# 2004 Subaru Forester: Component Selection Help



## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

I'm wanting to replace the entire system in my FXT with a better setup that is budget minded. I will be running a carputer so all speakers will have to run off of an amp(s). Budget is $500 for speakers, amps, and sub. I want everything in stock locations and out of sight. Sub(s) will replace stock 6x9 sub which is in the rear quarter panel behind the wheel well and will be sealed off in there. I don't know if I should go with a singe 10" or a pair of 8" which would be firing at each other in both quarter panels. I listen to a wide variety of music but mostly rap and rock and want clean bass at low volumes but something that can hit really hard when I want it to.

Fronts: 6.5" component set (2" depth or up to 3" with spacer)
Rears: 5.25" speaker set
Sub: 1-10" or 2-8" (5" depth and up to 0.75 ft3 each)
Amp(s): 5ch amp or a 4ch and a mono block?

I also have a set of CDT CL-S60A components for the front. If these are good speakers, I'll use them and have that much more money for the rest of the system.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Most people on here, me included, will suggest starting off with a decent front stage and don't worry about replacing the rears. I have rear speakers in the doors of my Impreza, but they are almost always off. If you don't plan on going active you can get a decent component set and a good 10" and power it all with one 4 channel amp. It may be difficult to get everything under $500, but i'm sure it's possible. I would highly recommend spending some money on deadening those front doors up. Even the best components wont reach their potential unless you take care of those doors.


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## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

I forgot to mention that I don't mind buying used for that $500.

I plan on Dynamating the 4 doors, rear hatch door, and the sides from the rear seats back. Pretty much the entire vehicle except the floor and roof.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Ignore the rear speakers. Disconnect them.

I'm not sure if you'll be able to squeeze a 3" deep woofer under the door panel. The pocket is kind of intrusive, more so then previous year models. You'll be able to get decently deep with panel extention pins, but I'm just not sure how much the pocket gets in the way. I would kind of advise sticking to 2.5" or so just in case. You can grab the IAPerformance spacers which can get you 3" of depth available and has the extention pins you'll need. I just don't know at what point you'll just run into that pocket. Maybe you can fit a 3" deep speaker. Maybe the pocket is just a little deceiving.

The Foresters do not have a lot of cabin gain for the sub. Look for options that will have a -3dB roll off point of 30Hz to maintain a strong low end response. Even 40Hz may sound a touch weak on the bottom end. I can't say specifically for the 04 though. I own an 02 which is based off the previous model type. My brother owns an 04 FXT, but he has yet to run any subs in the car, so I can't say how different the cabin gain is on the newer chassis type. They are very similar vehicles, but the chassis still is different and will still yield a different gain effect. I just can't say exactly what. All I can suggest now is you'll want to go low or it will probably end up a little on the weak side. The flattest sub I've ran in mine was my Sonicraft sub sealed. This is a sub that has a F3(-3dB roll off point) of 30Hz. This fits the cabin gain well, at least for the 98-02 model years. 03+, unsure, but I'm guessing similar.

For woofers/tweeters, I'll lean you towards a good budget setup. If you can find a pair, grab some of the older Alpine Type-X tweeters from the SPX-177R set. They're compact 3/4" tweeters based off the Vifa XT19 tweeter. You can swap out the crap stock tweeters in the sail pane and simply hot glue these in place. They're laid back, non-fatiguing, and open. They sound great and fair very well in the pillar area. Plus they fit pretty easy. You may do a little trimming of the plastic on the back side to fit them in. This is what my brother's running in his FXT. I've used them in the past in my car as well. They're very likable tweeters. For the woofer, I would lean you towards the Mach5 6.5" woofer, the MLI65. It too is a laid back, likable woofer. It's also a true 6.5" size and the mount depth is just a touch over 2.5", making it a pretty easy fit. The frequency response is very broad, and it is well geared for door use. I ran this pair for I think about half a year. It was a setup I really enjoyed, and it fits exceptionally well on a shoestring budget.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13820
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47942

As for subs, think bigger. You can keep the box size decently small, but you don't want to constrain yourself in size. You'll probably need to think about a ported design. If you want to keep the box size small, maybe even a passive radiator design. If you don't need much for sub output, you may look at staying with a smaller woofer. If you want output, you're sitting at 10" minimum and ported to maintain low end response. You might want to look at 15" or 18" even. Cargo space is nice to maintain, but that is the challenge when trying to create a setup that reproduces bottom end frequencies. There will be a compromise. Glassing the quarter panels is a nice idea. They are actually physically different on both sides by the way. The problem with sealed is that you pretty much end up with what you have in the front doors. You're not really gaining much of anything, and you're not building a setup that outputs what you need.

One option I'll point you to is Dayton's Reference series 10" HO sub. It fits in a 0.6 cu.ft. ported box tuned to 30Hz. It will also get you down to 30Hz which will give you the low end you need. It's also ultra clean and detailed. Now there's a downside. A tiny, ported box means a really, really freaking long port. This means that your nice and compact 0.6 cu.ft. box is in reality more towards 1.5 cu.ft. total. The fix is a passive radiator. However, you need the surface area somewhere to even add a PR, and when you're glassing in sub in a corner like you are, you don't have the other faces of the enclosure to use. So what to do? An external port.








You can run the port out of the way somewhere (not restricted/blocked off though, it does output the low frequency sound, lol). It's an option to keep the physical box small but still allow the porting. You'll also have some easy control over adjusting length and shaping the frequency response better to the car as it's not stuck inside the box.


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## Dr.Telepathy SQ (Nov 17, 2007)

That's a seriously limited budget, given the fact you haven't included funds for install materials. 
Install is everything and really more important than the products that you will select.


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## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

I have a bunch of speaker wire, cap, battery cable, etc. left over from an old project and will buy the other necessities as I get there. $500 is just for speakers, amps, and sub. If the CDT's are worth it, that frees up that much more money for everything else.


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## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

the CDT's with the IA performance spacers are fine for the front. If you got'em use 'em...

I think its time to start shopping ebay, onlinecarstereo.com, woofersetc.com, & ikesound.com... look for great deals on major league amps.. Alpine PDX's, JL "slash series"... or look at sundownaudio.com & check out their 100.4.. run it to the fronts & bridged to a sub. Run the OE rear doors off the HU...

$500 is an INSANELY low budget to work with... even used or "old school".. 

The image dynamics 10DVC (any version) is a great option... 100's of woofers that are worthy of consideration.

Rob


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## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

Thanks for the help so far. I really want the sub in the stock location in a sealed enclosure. After some help on another forum as well, how does this setup sound for a novice setup with some good bump:

Front: CDT CL-S60A (already have)
Rear: Stockers (already have)
Sub: Alpine Type-S 10" SWS-1023D (~$90 new)
Amp: Alpine PDX-5 (~$350-400 new)

Other choices for a sub if I can space the interior panel out a little:
IDQ10v3
JL 10w3

If I don't like the speakers I can upgrade them to some Alpine Type R's or X's in the future. What do you guys think?


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## RYNOMOTO (Oct 3, 2008)

DUUUUDE........

JOO R KNOT LISTNING TO US!!!! 


HAHA.....

You don't need Rear door speakers in your car.... get it out of your plan..... seriously........ just remove them and put some mat down behind the doors and over the speaker holes.... seal out as much noise as you can with the deadener and use ensolite foam.... Raam mat and several others on this board can save you alot over dynamat brand products and do as well or better for less money.....

I have an 04 FXT and I have been going down the same road you are starting on....


You say you are going to run a car puter, so, what kind of audio software does it have on it? Does it have an EQ, Time Delay for alignment for each channel? How many RCA outputs and channels will you have available to run this system?


the fronts are fine for a start, and you can see how you like them.....

Going to an active system (having full control of the frequency output for each channel so you can filter the signal going to the amplifier before it gets to the speakers, sub, and tweets...)

a passive system running crossovers will not give you nearly as desirable a sound as an active system.... in my opinion..... 

I am newer to the active systems, but, I will tell you that I have been blown away by the difference between active and passive systems.....


As for the Subwoofer choice, in your budget range, you are pretty stretched for quality.... I have heard great things about the Phoenix Gold Rsdc10d2 and the Rsdc12d2 subs.... and they are about $110 on ebay brand new..... and can handle massive power and go well in a small sealed box...

I can also tell you that I have been very disapointed in my 10 in my small sealed box, and from all the info I can find, it is really not the best to run a sealed 10 in a smallish box in the back of a wagon-ish sub......

I can also tell you that if you really want slamming bass, go with a well-built custom ported box tuned for a woofer specifically.... You will be disappointed if you try to build a box into the stock subwoofer panel...... ask me why..... haha... been there and done that..... 

also, I think the 12 is really the better size to go with overall for rap and rock....

10 is better for pure accuracy only and usually not very capable of good output below 50hz unless you are talking JL 10w7 subs..... or DD.......



As for amps, the PDX-5 is fine and will run the tweets, front components, and sub pretty well....

if you decide to do something a little different, let me know.....


I have some good RF amps that I can sell you for a good price and work VERY well....

a 600a4 and a 500a2...... 

600a4 is under rated at 75wrms x 4 (more like 85-90wrms x4)

500a2 when bridged runs about 400-450wrms x 1 and output is VERY strong.....

I can cut you a good deal on these if you decide to go that route........

GOOD LUCK!!!
RYNO


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## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

I know a lot of people say not to run rears, but won't that leave a huge dead spot? Especially for rear passengers?

I really don't want to lose any cargo room or leave render anything unusable, especially my spare tire. I'll look around to see if there is another place I place a box that is also inconspicuous to all the wannabe thieves around my area.


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## srt42b (Nov 4, 2008)

More suggestions please?

RYNOMOTO - what sub did you have in the stock location and what kind of power to it? Why were you disappointed?


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## RYNOMOTO (Oct 3, 2008)

srt42b said:


> I know a lot of people say not to run rears, but won't that leave a huge dead spot? Especially for rear passengers?
> 
> I really don't want to lose any cargo room or leave render anything unusable, especially my spare tire. I'll look around to see if there is another place I place a box that is also inconspicuous to all the wannabe thieves around my area.




ok, well, honestly, you will not be able to set up much of a sound stage that will satisfy all occupants, especially those in the back seat....

who rides with you in the back when you crank up your system?

I have had people ride in the back of my fozzy and they commented that they couldn't tell there were no rear door speakers.... They commented on how good it sounded to them.....

that is when you know you are getting close on your sound stage.....

you will not be happy if you leave the rear speakers in.... I tried that and wasted money on some alpine components that a shop talked me into, and they even said "you should put something in there or otherwise the sound will not be pleasing"..... 

well, those alpines in the rear doors were the only things that were clipping and distorting in my whole system, so I promptly pulled them out and put mat over the holes and inside the panels..... All I could hear was actually the distortion, I couldn't hear music from them at all when my front speaks were going....




There is a guy on subaruforesters.org that is named sea-scooby... he can hook you up with a subwoofer adapter kit that is well made and well engineered.... This allows you to run a sealed 8 inch sub where your 6 x 9 is now.....

This is a nice setup for SQ, but don't expect to really rock out hard with a sub pounding your chest.... the sealed area is very small and only works well with a few 8 inch subs, and I think the Dayton 8 was highly recommended because of minimal airspace required and good output.... 

I believe he also makes a kit to do the passenger's side pocket area too.... if you did twin 8 inch subs, firing opposite of each other, it might do pretty well ....

That is the only super stealth way to do subs in a forester.....

I have a small sealed box that sits in the back driver's side corner of the hatch area that I secure with a cargo bar to keep the box from moving around or vibrating...... and I remove it or move it around when I want to haul something big, like an engine or big parts...... 

I plan on making my own custom sealed or small ported box for a single 12 if I go away from the 10 I have now.....


I also have a pretty dark tint job on the windows and I used Dark carpet on the box so nothing stands out....

Both amps are mounted under the seats on mine, so nothing is super evident about having a system inside....

RYNO


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## RYNOMOTO (Oct 3, 2008)

srt42b said:


> More suggestions please?
> 
> RYNOMOTO - what sub did you have in the stock location and what kind of power to it? Why were you disappointed?



I had a one-off custom 10 inch kit that sea-scooby tried that I probably mis-matched the subwoofer to.... but, overall, there really isn't enough room for airspace on any 10..... you will do much better with a good single 8 if you insist on the stock sub location and use the kit I mention above....

just put as much power to it as it can hold if you do the small sealed enclosure.....


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## jboudreau (Oct 23, 2008)

Just installed most of stuff in my 08 FXT.

Alpine 9887, Hertz HSK 165's in the doors powered by an old school us amps 600x (150w per side) and 2 12 IDQ 12's in a 1 cu foot per side box, powered by a PPI pc2150 (600 watts bridged)

Still need to do the big 3 wire upgrade...as my lights dim a bit when really pushing this.

It sounds fantastic though. Box is kinda crappy, so I need to upgrade that. May try out the new V4 mags this time around too. (I've had the IDQs in the past 3 cars I have owned.)

I am not running any rear speakers in the doors. Usually they just ruin the imaging.

Sea scooby as mentioned above make some VERY nice stuff. I bought some speaker spacers off him for my Hertz. For the 35 bucks he charges..there is no way i could make these any nicer, and it probably would have taken me forever to make them how his are made. I am sure his stealth sub kit is pretty nice too...but i needed / wanted more bass than that, so I opted for a cheap dual 12" sub box off ebay, that is pretty easy to remove if i need the space.


-Jay


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

RYNOMOTO said:


> DUUUUDE........
> 
> JOO R KNOT LISTNING TO US!!!!
> 
> ...


OMG, tspence73 got one of his friends to join here too... Run away, run away!

ETA: I may as well be helpful. So here is my civic's "budget" system:

CDT TW-25 tweeters (leftover from a scrapped project)
Alpine Type Argh 6.5 - $130 (now I have a leftover Type R tweeter)
Alpine CDA-9885 - $249
dd1010 subwoofer w/box - $140
Linear Power 1502IQ - $165
Punch 5002 - $90
Scosche e2 wiring kit - $50
eDead UE - Free

That puts my whole budget build @ $824 and my system sounds better than most of the custom shop systems that cost 3x as much! Of course, some of my equipment is used, but I was patient and pretty much got exactly what I wanted over the course of 5 months.


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## RYNOMOTO (Oct 3, 2008)

dang....

nice to see all these Forester owners on here!!!!

;-)


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## wadejg (Apr 20, 2007)

It is like the meeting of www.subaruforester.com

Regards,
Justin Wade
2004 FXTi


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

(Shameless plug)

You could do something like:

Nakamichi SP1010 10" sub. New old school sub. Likes 1cft.
Nakamichi PA301 mono amp for sub.
Nakamichi PA304 4 channel (can be bridged for 2 channel, or 3 channel for that matter)
Amps in great shape. $350 for all leaves $150 for front set.

Also, search the classifieds.

Bob


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