# Mute Plug Pictures



## thapranksta (May 11, 2007)

Hi guys. I still have alternator whine after trying a few troubleshooting techniques - changing the RCAs, moving the RCAs away from the ground and power, and trying a different ground source. A member on here told me to make some mute plugs to fix my alternator whine issue. I started with trying to figure out exactly what to do but I don't want to mess anything up. Does anyone have any step by step pictures of mute plugs being made or a nice straightforward shot of a finished pair? Thanks.

Also, any other odd ideas about what my problem is are appreciated. My deck is a Kenwood DDX-6019.


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## Analog_123 (Aug 7, 2007)

Hmm, mute plugs are useful for finding out where the source of the problem is, not actually fixing it. I built some myself to help solve the exact same problem. If only I could get to the bottom of it!

Follow these simple steps:

1. Go to shop, buy cheapest RCA plug you can find. Something like this:

http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/46df4c01009afde02740c0a87f3306a9/Product/View/P1423

2. Unscrew the cover.
3. Solder the ground lug to the centre conductor solder bucket.

Done!

I've got some at home I could post up, but they really are super easy to make.

Here's a quote from a reply to the alternator problem when I asked for advice on another forum:


> How can you eliminate alternator whine in a car audio system?
> 
> If you have alternator whine in a car audio system and want to get rid of it, there is only one sure-fire way to do it. David Navone and Richard Clark from Autosound 2000 in the USA developed the following step-by-step instructions. If you follow the instructions EXACTLY, you are guaranteed to trace and eliminate the noise in your car audio system. Don’t miss a step and don’t assume that something is OK without checking it.
> 
> ...


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Each time you check for noise, you should do it with the engine running at 1500 to 2000 rpm and the headlights on full beam so that the alternator will be charging. The tests with the CD player connected should be done with a ‘zero bit’ track playing and the volume at maximum. Set your CD player to ‘repeat’ if it has that feature.


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

a$$hole said:


> Each time you check for noise, you should do it with the engine running at 1500 to 2000 rpm and the headlights on full beam so that the alternator will be charging. The tests with the CD player connected should be done with a ‘zero bit’ track playing and the volume at maximum. Set your CD player to ‘repeat’ if it has that feature.


And any other large load you can switch on... Aircon, heater fan to high etc
Zero bit tracks are available on any good reference test CD...

Mark


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

many headunits have a zero bit mute so that at zero bit the headunit dumps the outputs to ground via muting FETs


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## owdi (Apr 4, 2008)

Try running power and ground from your amps distro block to you HU. If you are not powering speakers off your HU, even 16awg is thick enough.

Dan


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