# Power distribution block for grounding ???



## duckymcse (Mar 15, 2009)

I need to move my 2 amps which is currently under the driver/passenger seat to the trunk. I going to run 1/0 AWG to a power distribution block. From the power distribution block output(2) run 4 AWG power wire to my 2 amps.
Now the question is grounding. Can I use another power distribution block and run 4 AWG from each of the amp to the block and from the block run 1/0 AWG to ground? Or should I ground each of the amp seperately using 4 AWG wire?


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

I used a block for 4 amps. Down to 3 now but still using the same block.
Nobody ever said I couldn't and it's been like that for 4 years now.
Mine is a 0/1 gauge wire through a grommet in the cab floor then bolted to the frame and covered in rubberized undercoating.


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## redgst97 (Mar 12, 2008)

I have done installs both ways....with and without a block for ground.

I think using a block is a bit cleaner though. If you go without a block, I might suggest grounding them in the same place if possible.


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

I've always understood the ground should come from the same point, until I read a document on Zed's website about grounding each amp seperately in different locations.


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

fish said:


> I've always understood the ground should come from the same point, until I read a document on Zed's website about grounding each amp seperately in different locations.


Link to that document? 

Seems like you would want them grounded in the same spot through a dist. block so as to avoid ground potential differences. I have two amps running through a dist block for power and ground, and have never had any problems.


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## 2_Lude (Oct 5, 2009)

You typically want to ground at the same point, that way there is no chance for different voltage potentials. As for using a distro block vs straight to chassis, I don't think it's going to make a difference. I use a distro block for ease of use, plus in the future if you change configurations it's easy to change out wiring.


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## duckymcse (Mar 15, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the respond. I'll just run 4awg wire from each of the amps to the power distribution block and 1/0 awg from the block to the grounding point.

Another question, the power wire run from the power distribution block to the amp, do you guys use a fuse? Or a fuse is not necessary in this case?


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## Qicker306 (Oct 2, 2009)

There's a fuse on the battery side of your power wire though right? Add the fuses on your amps together, the single fuse by your battery should be this size. Couldn't hurt to have a single smaller fuse that matches each individual amp after the distro block.


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

94VG30DE said:


> Link to that document?
> 
> Seems like you would want them grounded in the same spot through a dist. block so as to avoid ground potential differences. I have two amps running through a dist block for power and ground, and have never had any problems.


http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/Technical/ZedManual-GREYSCALE.pdf

Top of page 4.

I've always used a distro too, this is why after reading this I'm confused on which way would be better.


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## zerodistortion (Jul 23, 2009)

I use a Streetwires CBR44M in my set-up. It does power and ground off the same block!!! Saved me a lot of trouble during install. You should look into that distro block.


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## ehkewley (Jul 19, 2008)

Qicker306 said:


> There's a fuse on the battery side of your power wire though right? Add the fuses on your amps together, the single fuse by your battery should be this size. Couldn't hurt to have a single smaller fuse that matches each individual amp after the distro block.


The power wire battery fuse should not be higher than the amount of current that it can safely handle for its gauge. Ideally the wires from the distro block would be fused as well, since they are generally smaller and cannot take the amount of amperage that the main power wire can.

FUSES


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

What I use..

Stinger SHD20

Stinger SHD20 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 2 (4Ga Outputs) HPM Distribution

Perfect.

Or if you need 4, SHD21

Stinger SHD21 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) HPM Distribution

I use this for my grounds.. no fuses, and all go to one point.


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## 2_Lude (Oct 5, 2009)

Anytime you have a size reduction in wire it is a good idea to fuse. That streewires fused distro block posted earlier works well.


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## duckymcse (Mar 15, 2009)

Yes, I do have a fuse next to the battery.
Since I got 2 extra fuses for my 2 amps, I probably use it for my 2 amps.



Qicker306 said:


> There's a fuse on the battery side of your power wire though right? Add the fuses on your amps together, the single fuse by your battery should be this size. Couldn't hurt to have a single smaller fuse that matches each individual amp after the distro block.


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## zerodistortion (Jul 23, 2009)

People make the mistake that fuses in the distro block is used to protect the amp, but it's actually there to protect the wires. The fuses should match the gauge wire you are using, and not the fuses on the amp.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

fish said:


> I've always understood the ground should come from the same point, until I read a document on Zed's website about grounding each amp seperately in different locations.


I'm still learning, but form what I've read so far, you want to ground to one location to avoid ground loops i thought?


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

ZOMBIE THREAD ALERT!!


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

I've been a believer in single point grounding for many years. Not only in car audio but also PA, adressable fire alarm systems, PLCs, and many other low voltage or current sensing circuits. As the number of components in a system grows, so does the chance for multiple parallel grounding paths to create noise. I like having the head unit, relays, processor, and amplifiers all mounted on non conductive surfaces. All this along with an isolation switch on the antenna wire, do make an audible difference.


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## Rbdiaz (Dec 7, 2019)

redgst97 said:


> I have done installs both ways....with and without a block for ground.
> 
> I think using a block is a bit cleaner though. If you go without a block, I might suggest grounding them in the same place if possible.


Is there a special distribution block for power and a special one for ground??


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## GrM (Feb 11, 2021)

Rbdiaz said:


> Is there a special distribution block for power and a special one for ground??


3 years later,... incase anyone else is wondering: ground distribution blocks are the same as power. Use fuses for the power and links (solid pieces of metal) for the ground.

“_Though I suppose fuses would work if, for whatever reason, you wanted to”._ Given how wrong and dangerous this statement is (thanks to seafish for pointing that out and giving an in-depth explanation) here’s a copy and paste of his/her correction (incase anyone doesn’t make it to page 2):




seafish said:


> ...this is both wrong and dangerous...NEVER fuse the ground side of a circuit !!!
> 
> If for whatever reason that ground fuse blows instead of the power fuse, then the electricity can and will try to follow whatever path lies in its way back to the vehicle chassis and battery and will flow through things like ... RCA cables, speaker cables, amp chassis , vehicle equipment chassis like the ECU, and even your body (say if you touch the amp to press the power button to see why your music stopped playing and also happen to be touching ANY grounding point at the same time) potentially damaging anything or everything electronic on its way through depending on the current or even destroying the entire vehicle by setting it on fire.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

GrM said:


> ... incase anyone else is wondering: ground distribution blocks are (sic or at least can be) the same as power (distribution blocks). Use fuses for the power and links (solid pieces of metal) for the ground.


YES this is correct ...



GrM said:


> =Though I suppose fuses would work if, for whatever reason, you wanted to.


NO, NO, NO... sorry for yelling, but this is both wrong and dangerous...NEVER fuse the ground side of a circuit !!!

If for whatever reason that ground fuse blows instead of the power fuse, then the electricity can and will try to follow whatever path lies in its way back to the vehicle chassis and battery and will flow through things like ... RCA cables, speaker cables, amp chassis , vehicle equipment chassis like the ECU, and even your body (say if you touch the amp to press the power button to see why your music stopped playing and also happen to be touching ANY grounding point at the same time) potentially damaging anything or everything electronic on its way through depending on the current or even destroying the entire vehicle by setting it on fire.


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## GrM (Feb 11, 2021)

seafish said:


> NO, NO, NO... sorry for yelling, but this is both wrong and dangerous...NEVER fuse the ground side of a circuit !!!....


Thanks for the quick and well warranted correction, especially on behalf of anyone who might otherwise have followed that.


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## Djtank (May 21, 2015)

does using a fused distribution block on the positive feed eliminate having to fuse from the block to the amp? If so, I’d still have to fuse between battery and block, am I right?


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Djtank said:


> does using a fused distribution block on the positive feed eliminate having to fuse from the block to the amp? If so, I’d still have to fuse between battery and block, am I right?


Yes, to protect the cable between them


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)




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## Djtank (May 21, 2015)

DoubleCrown said:


> View attachment 304200


Which one is that?

I’m trying to figure what electrical parts I need to get the system installed.

my setup
Android HU
Helix ultra dsp
zapco z150.6LX - Two way AF GB15 & GB60 - GB60 (Rear fill)
Zapco z400.2SP - AE SBP-15 IB setup

From Battery to a distribution block (1) 1/0ga power wire with a fuse close to battery (300A)?
And From a fused (150A) distribution block to amp (2) 2ga power wire. One power wire to each amp?

Is this accurate or am I missing something?


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## DoubleCrown (Jun 26, 2019)

Knu knoceptz with bus bars instead of fuses, matches my distribution block too. 300 is a big fuse for 1/0, I'm using 150 from battery


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I would use much smaller fuses. Fuses don't necessarily blow at there rating point. They can even allow two and 3 times there rating in current to pass through for very short times.

150 on the 1/0 and 80 on the 2 ga. You'll never blow a fuse and be a little safer.


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## Djtank (May 21, 2015)

strange. John at zapco gave me this recommendation. I didn't mention ill be running the AE 8ohms subs parallel, bridged to 4ohms pushing about 1500w and the amps is about 1500wrms as well. Does it matter if I start lower rating fuses and upgrade later if I have to?


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

It's not strange. The fuse protects the wire. Depending on the wire length it can handle that current. I just error on the side of caution and my real world experience. 

I can tell you I had a car that clamped at 3100+ watts and never blew an 80 amp fuse.
I had a 12k spl system that didn't use a 300 amp fuse.

Using the smaller fuse and bumping up is not a bad thing.


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## GrM (Feb 11, 2021)

Since they were already brought up, I’d highly recommend checking out KneKoncepts for everything power/speaker wire related. Their 16awg OFC wire is quite a bit cheaper than even most 18awg I’ve seen, primarily at crutchfield. They’ve got everything you’ll need wire wise and are cheap for the quality. I spent about $120 for 18’ total of 4AWG OFC, 100ft 16awg OFC, two 2-way blocks etc. I.e. everything needed for power and signals out and in. Personally I wouldn’t get anything else because it’s cheaper than most and you’re not finding anything better.

so, when can I expect the check?


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