# 1994 Chevy Caprice Sound Deadening



## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I bought my 1994 Chevy Caprice a few years back and it has been a project car ever since. It was a fairly straight rust free car out of El Paso Texas where it was originally El Paso PD unit C410. The transmission was no good which is common with the GM 4L60E of this era, as well as a few other minor mechanical problems. Originally my intentions were to just fix the tranny and drive it… that intention did not last long. What has occurred since then is best described as the snowball effect and now I not only rebuilding the car but making it much better than GM originally designed (and much more expensive).
I won’t go into every detail that doesn’t pertain to the topic at hand. Instead I’ll just post a few pics of before and after. Not necessarily in the order of completion. 

When I got it, the paint actually looked a little better than it does now. But I will repaint it soon.



















The car was fairly rust free and I wanted to keep it that way. 



























































































The original interior was a boring blue cloth with vomit stains and gang graffiti scratched into it. I put Impala SS leather seats in, recovered the headliner, dyed some pieces and replaced others. I did a lot of wiring, added a remote start and some extra circuits to the fuse box. Everything was ran as if it came from the factory that way, no goofy wires run out of place.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Battery cables are some of the finest available, 1/0 power and ground wires, as well as an additional 2ga ground wire to ground directly to the frame (the OEM wires do not). Innovative Wiring LLC










Currently the sound system is a joke and will remain that way until the sound deadening is done. Head unit is a “hand me down” Clarion DXZ575USB. The door speakers are the factory 4x6” for the time being and the rear deck is a pair of Clarion SGR6921R 2-way 6x9’s I got just because they were really cheap and I needed something that worked.

Now on to the sound deadening… The floor pans received about 110% coverage of Second Skin Damp Pro. I went a little overboard with this stuff.





































The roof got some too










I caught a deal on a 5 gallon bucket of Second Skin Spectrum liquid deadener so I used some of that too. Most areas are about 3 credit cards thick or so.




























For the most part I just cleaned the brushes and rollers off on the roof










The floors were topped off with Second Skins Luxury Liner Pro. At first I just tapped the seams, but afterwards I decided to go back and use non-foam backed MLV and contact cement to seal the seams as can be seen in one of the pictures.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Under the dash actually had a fairly good formed piece of MLV with a foam backing. I decided it was probably a better idea to keep that than to try and make my own out of thicker material. I did add some Damp Pro to the firewall under the dash. I didn’t take any pics of this part.

Next I moved to the kick panels which were a mess of wires and the original factory MLV had been cut and broken up from police equipment installation and un-installation. I decided to remove what was left and make a new one. The Drivers side was most difficult.



















The passenger side was not as bad.










Large plastic interior pieces like the B and C pillar panels, got some left over pieces of Luxury Liner Pro.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Once dried the Second Skin Spectrum formed a fairly solid barrier yet still had a little bit of give. It seemed to adhere to the surface it was applied to very well. Since I had so much of it, I decided I would use it on the underside of the floor pans as well. 



















I topped it with the 3M rubberized undercoating I had laying around then finally with Duplicolor spray on bed liner which dried much harder than the Spectrum. The insides of the wheel wells got the same treatment.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Wow...very nice job! Love to see where this goes.


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Nice work! Worlds quietest Caprice!?


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

All new body and suspension bushings were used during re-assembly and at this point the car is a fairly quiet ride. But it is obvious the doors have not been treated in a similar manner. It’s like now that the floor and firewall is quiet all the noise you do hear is from the doors. I have been holding off on the doors because my original doors were full of dings and I wanted to upgrade to the 95/96 style mirrors which are much bigger and mount in a different location than the dinky 91-94 mirrors. After a long exhaustive search I was able to find a driver and passenger side fairly straight 95/96 style doors, without the police spotlight cut-outs at my local pull-a-part. Although I had to pull them from two different cars and the paint doesn’t match my car, it’s okay a paintjob is in my future!










The plan is to seal the doors in DIYMA fashion.

First Damp Pro.



















Next MLV barrier.

The after painstaking hours of fitting (and a bit more to go) I have cut a piece of Luxury Liner Pro to seamlessly fit inside each of the door and wrap around the hinge area. I had to trim the foam backing off in the area around the crash bar so the window wouldn’t rub when down. This piece will be held in with industrial strength velcro which is on order from SDS, as well a some exdruded butyl rope to go in the gaps between the crash bar and door skin.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I ordered my door speakers so that I could make the necessary spacers and modifications. Picking which speakers to go with is not easy when there is nearly nowhere around that has any of the brands or models you are interested in. You guys don’t make it any easier! Around here the market is all subwoofer bass.










The spacers are made out of ¾” birch plywood. As you can see in the picture below the inner door metal was intruding into the speaker hole. I’m not sure if this was actually a problem, as the speaker fit fine without any trimming, but I did not want any weird sound reflection issues. Since I have joined DIYMA I have learned a lot about sound waves and speakers. Pics are upside down because photobuckets new website sucks.





































I was intrigued by Mirage_Man’s build thread and how he sealed the doors with removable fiberglass panels and decided to go that route. I ordered a gallon of epoxy resin and some cloth from US Composites. My first attempt at sealing the large hole didn’t quite come out as I had wanted, so I chalked it up as a learning experience and went at it again. Carnauba wax works good as a mold release. This panel is 4 layers of US composites 4oz E-glass and a single layer of strips of E-glass. I found it was best to apply all layers before any of it completely hardens. 























































Coming along nicely. I have since made two more panels to seal the two smaller holes seen in the picture. I will post newer pics soon.


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## MajesticLT03 (Mar 27, 2011)

wow very nice project.. as another 9C1 owner I am looking forward to this build up


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## cjazzy4 (Mar 29, 2012)

WOW....this amazing level of skill to restore this car.....wish I could do half the stuff on my ride.....Can't wait to see more...and the sound system plans.


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## duro78 (Dec 24, 2011)

Very impressive workmanship. All you need is a ls motor swap lol.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

cjazzy4 said:


> WOW....this amazing level of skill to restore this car.....wish I could do half the stuff on my ride.....Can't wait to see more...and the sound system plans.


The system will be a slow progression as I learn and experiment. I am also completely new to car audio and not entirely sure what I want or need.

I just picked up a JBL GTO1004 4 channel amp which I will be using with the MS-62's passive crossovers at first. Next steps for the audio part of the build will probably be a MS-8, a sub and mono amp, then new rear deck speakers.

Sound deadening wise I am waiting for some stuff from sound deadener showdown to arrive. 

Mechanically I need to rebuild an extra rear end with a new gear ratio and posi.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

You are going all out! So far so good!


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## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

that dash screams for horns


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Horsemanwill said:


> that dash screams for horns


My knowledge of horns is very limited but if and when I add a center channel I will consider it.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

A shot of the passenger side.










I even made panels that seals the hole beneath the door handles.


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## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

with horns you won't need a center channel.

HLCD - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

good place to learn about horns.

Horns - Backyard Installers

great place to learn about horns


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Got some more stuff in this week from Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown










Extruded Butyl Rope, Industrial Velcro and 1/8" closed cell foam.

Out of all the companies I have dealt with through this whole build of the car, including all the mechanical stuff I did to the car, Don at SDS is the best. His stuff is always packaged top notch, arrives quick and the one time I did have a small problem with my order he more than made up for his mistake. Plus his website is good source of info.

I have already started pushing the butyl rope into the gap between the crash bar and door skin. I'll post some pics this weekend.


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

Impressive work to a beast! There is a lot to learn on here so keep up the good work.


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## jeeptian (Feb 9, 2013)

nice


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Holy hell! Now that's how it's done! I can't imagine the difference in how much quieter the car is. 
And I agree, a LSX engine swap would be sick. a 6-liter would make that big car get down. Will be watching this build.


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

it's gotta be like riding in a vault now...impressive.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks guys, its a slow process and I'm in no hurry. I also took on a second job so progress has slowed.

I would love an LSX engine, one day it may be in the cards. But for now its not. If you want to see one of the cleanest, nicest, factory looking LSX installs in a Caprice check out this thread: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=229065

Since the door portion of the project has began its been multiple series of test fitting/reassembly, take it back apart, make changes, test fit again. By the time this is over I want to have measurements of the MLV sheets I am using inside the door, so that anyone with a 91-96 GM B-body (Chevy Caprice, Buick Roadmaster, Olds Custom Cruiser) or 93-96 GM D-body (Cadillac Fleetwood) can take my measurements and easily fit their own barrier. But that will be later in a later post. 

For now what I have done is butyl rope in between the side impact bar and the door skin










and some more above the door handle area. For some reason on many cars I have seen the door is mostly absent of vibration dampener except for the area around the door handle. My guess is so that is does not feel cheap and hollow when you open the door.










I also started test fitting an extra door harness I have. I had to make a cut to one of my panels to allow it to pass through. Not sure if I will leave it like it is or take steps to seal the hole better.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I sidelined this project for a while, but now I'm back at it. Its a slow process doing things right. Sometimes progress halts for something as stupid as waiting for a rubber washer which may or may not help in isolating a component from the rest of the door.

I decided to hang the doors before adding any more weight with sound deadening. The door was heavy enough without all the deadening, no need to complicate the door hanging process any more.



















The power window motor is installed at the factory using rivets. Those were long ground off so I could work on the door. I do not like rivets for things that may eventually have to come back off, so I opted for 1/4" bolts. In between each part the bolt passed thru I used a rubber washer, cheaply available at the hardware store for 18 cents each. So there is a rubber washer in between the inner door skin and a regular washer at the bolt head, rubber washer in between the door skin and the power window motor assembly and between the motor assembly and another washer and a locking nut. Hopefully this will isolate some of the vibrations from the window motor when the window is going up and down.










In the door handle area I used a piece of MLV without foam backing to help block and noise around the door handle area from entering. Here is where the factory handle bolts to the door itself. On my old doors, if the HVAC fans were running and the windows rolled up, you could feel air blowing out from around the door handle. 










Added my homemade fiberglass panels










Around all of the bigger panels and the speaker spacer is a thin bead of extruded butyl rope from SDS. 












Last pic for the day I added damplifier to the door and fiberglass panels. Also what is not shown is addition damplifer on the back of the inside door actuator bracket/ silver thing the door latch rods are attached to thingy. Also some of the longer sections of door latch rods got a bit of damplifier wrapped around them that did seem to make a difference.


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## 92gen2 (Oct 19, 2008)

awesome job at cleaning all that up bro, keep at it!


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## vwdave (Jun 12, 2013)

You are doing a great job on that car. Ive done some of this to a 96 impala before, its amazing how much room for improvement was left by the factory.

Did you do a before weight to compare to after and see how much weight you added?


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

sweet job!!! sub'd to see how this ends up...


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

vwdave said:


> You are doing a great job on that car. Ive done some of this to a 96 impala before, its amazing how much room for improvement was left by the factory.
> 
> Did you do a before weight to compare to after and see how much weight you added?


No I wish I did. I'm sure its at least 250lbs in sound deadener alone.


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## jvctan16 (Jun 11, 2013)

awesome build. Can't wait to see more.


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## Changchung (Aug 15, 2012)

Subscribe...

Looking good...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I reinforced the crappy GM door panels with plastic welding, bondo-glass and damplifier pro. 



















I had to re-route some of the wiring and secure it in place.










Then I started on my MLV piece that goes under the door panel.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Got the drivers side mostly done. The door panel actually fits over everything. I dont like how there is a gap that allows the speaker to bleed off into tje door panel switch area.










The XTC foam baffles are aweful small for being the 6.5 non-shallow ones. I initially thought they had sent me 5 1/4" ones but they are the 6.5 ones.I suspect them being so small and so thick it would effect the sound in some manner. All I needed them for was protection from water, so I cut them in half and removed the back. I mounted them so that they would protect the speaker from water coming from the mirror area which leaks slightly. I used extruded butyl rubber on the other half of the speaker mounting ring area.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Here is the gap that allows the sound to radiate into the rest of the door panel. I plan on using some type of thick foam to seal around the speaker, unless someone has a better suggestion.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I went to walmart and bought some air conditioner installation foam. Used headliner spray glue to attach.



















Looks like it did what I wanted it to do










Door Panel on and in place










Passanger side is coming along as well, just a few steps behind the drivers side. I sat in the car, engine off, after installing the door panel and its VERY quiet inside, you get the absolute absents of noise feeling and the passenger side is not complete nor are the rear doors even touched yet.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I stepped away from this project on the car for a while and did some other things. I completely rebuilt the rearend, fuel system and upgraded the charging system. 

When I first put the car back together I had a brand new 240amp alternator from ASP wholesale (which does not have a very good reputation). It worked but the voltage fluctuated and I couldn't seem to get it to work right so I held on to it and got a brand new Remy 140amp alternator (made in china). It didn't last 2 years before it took a dump. That made me angry so I decided it was time to upgrade the charging system and make it more durable. 

I decided the ASP unit was probably making too many amps for some of the other stock-ish parts such as the voltage regulator and rectifiers. So I purchased external voltage regulators and rectifiers. The regulator is the Transpo 911-02R adjustable voltage regulator and the external bridge rectifiers is the Quicktifier 420, it is 2 high quality alternator rectifiers mounted in a metal housing with a cooling fan. It's rated at 420 amps which the internal rectifier in the alternator is only rated at 210 amps on an alternator capable of 240 amps... :freak: . VERY nicely built unit. Part # QF420 - Quicktifier 420 Amp External Bridge Rectifier - Triple Rectifier Kit w/ 12 Diodes for Automotive Alternators










This isn't just plug and play stuff. You have to disassemble the alternator and remove parts and run wires to the new external parts. 










I also had to make brackets and find spots to mount the new pieces.



















I also got a good battery. The Sears Platinum is made by Odyssey. If you look closely it appears to be the same battery as the Odyssey Extreme series which for my car is a $300 battery. I used a coupon code and got this for $190 after tax with a core. 










To help protect it from heat I used some foil insulation I had laying around. If you use this be careful because it is conductive.










Here it is all mounted up.










I have since cleaned up the wiring a little bit. The red wire running across the engine bay is gone and everything is in convoluted tubing.


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

I had a vision










Gathered some gear. 2 x JBL GTO 1014D's, 1 x JBL MS-A5001 sub amp and 1 x JBL GTO 1004 4 channel amp





























Made a template










Built a bulkhead off the template. I used 3/4" Birch plywood. This side faces the trunk.










This side faces the passenger cabin. The rectangular and 2 small square spacer boards are made of 1/2" birch plywood. I used T-nuts on all the equipment mounting points so that I would not have to remove the rear seats to remove stuff.










Test fitting










You can see in the trunk where I have begun adding CLD. There is much more yet to come. The GTO 1004 is going to mount in-between the subs. The goal is to still be able to mount a full size spare in the factory location.










I also added a heavy gauge grounding point in the trunk. 0000 gauge wire runs from the frame to the bulkhead connector.


































































Things I still need to do:

Build a mount for the MS-A5001.

Some under hood wiring. 

Obtaining and mounting a power distribution block in the trunk.

Figuring out how I will seal the edges of the IB bulkhead (anyone got any suggestions?)


Further down the road stuff:

Sound deadening rear doors.

miniDSP

Double din head unit


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## Lymen (Aug 9, 2011)

Nice to see this project back on track!


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

I had 3 of the 90's B bodies. Liked them. Last one was a 96 DGGM Impala. Really liked that car. Had the center console and analog gauges. Suspension and brake upgrades really made that fat girl dance too. Door panels were the biggest let down in the thing though needed a lot of work to get the squeaks/creaks out of those. And all 3 of them were terrible. That and the springs across the rear deck were in the way.... 

Looks like you're doing a hell of a job with it though. As far as the LS swaps I thought I remember the frame needing to be notched on the passenger side for ac pump or alt, and the crossmember being problematic.

Josh


Josh


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

Insane amount of restoration effort and sound deadening! Must be a workout opening and closing those doors now


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## fuzzcar (Nov 18, 2012)

Some more progress. It took quite a while to find some carpet that I thought would match the trunk carpet. Turns out its much darker, so I'll probably just recover the trunk liner in this new color.










For the amps I have already ran 4 gauge wire to the trunk. In the engine bay I going to use a marine grade breaker instead of fuses. I made this bracket to mount it.


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