# MiniSQ's 2013 Hyundai Elantra Build. JL Audio, HelixDSP, HAT, Seas Lotus



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

First let me say thank you to all the awesome people in this forum who have helped answer all my stupid questions over the years.

I am starting this build log with 3 goals.

I am hoping it prevents me from taking shortcuts over the next month or so i expect it to take to complete.

And I want to ask questions, or present ideas and get input as to how to solve problems as they come along.

I want to keep it as simple as possible.

Equipment List:

Front Speakers: Seas Lotus Performance Comps

Subwoofers: 2- 10" HAT Clarus C10SW's. These will go in a ported box, 1.25cuft each tuned to 28hz.

Amps: JL Audio Slash 300/4 V2 for the comps. Not sure if i will run them active or not. And a JL Audio Slash 500/1 V2 running the subs at 4ohms.

Processing: Kicking and screaming i entered the digital age and am using a Helix DSP.

Here are some random pictures of the car now. I have the subs on order, and 2 sheets of BB plywood arriving tomorrow.

Notice less than a week ago it was all done up nice with 4 ID8's and i was DONE. Lasted a week....


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## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

Good luck with the build. You sound like me, good is good, but it can always be better. I hope you find nirvana.


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## ccapil (Jun 1, 2013)

Subd, glad your starting a build log, looking forward to it see it come together

(Where'd you get the HAT subs from? I'm looking at a pair myself


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

In to see how your build turns out!  Best of luck!


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Yes Sir, I am paying attention!!!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

This is kind of how i am planning the install to go...amps up toward the rear seats on the floor of the hatch. The subs and ports will be over the wheel well, both firing up. The pink area is the 3" port that will be inside the box.

Nothing is set in stone. I was toying with stacking the subs front to back, and flanking them with the 2 amps. This is normally how i see it done, but i have 3 custom Y cables from Blue Jean Cable that i would rather not replace.

Not alot of progress today other than cleaning out the trunk area and starting to lay down sound deadener. I am not going to fiberglass in the tub, instead i will build the box to fit inside it with a combination of 3/4" and 1/2" BB plywood. The wheel well is about 1.5 cu ft, so i need to make up another 1.25 cubic feet in the secondary box that will be most of the floor but only about 4" deep. It may not make any sense yet, but i hope to cut some wood tomorrow and mock up part of it to get some input. I plan on building 2 mirrored halves. One for each driver.

Here is the layout.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

sub'd. Looking forward to following this one through.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Good luck! Hope it turns out the way you want and you get the sound you desire! 

Thanks again for the smooth transaction on the ID8s! :thumbsup: I am hoping to try them out over the next couple weeks!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

I kind of ran into some reality this weekend, and i am not sure how i am going to solve it. I just don't have the room to put the ports in the box. I run out of space every way i have tried it. Here are some in progress pictures. I am not giving up on making the box work, and i may build a slot port between the two drivers and feed it down into the spare tire well. I believe i need something like

12x1.5x 23 to make it right. I am taking tomorrow off to figure that part out and see if slot port will fit better. From the drawing above, i have decided to move the subs to the out side corners and either round ports or slot ports in the center area. 

One of the things i didn't count on was the spare tire wall being so far off center.

Tomorrow i will cut the walls and hopefully get past the port situation.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

niiiiiiice


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Can you sketch up a section cut of how it is going to work. Maybe that might help you to see in one direction or the other. I work in the architecture field and most of the time we never now how a building is going to go together until we cut a section of the building. Its like taking the building, slicing it in half and open it up to see how it is put together. It might reveal what you are looking for.

O I know why you taking off - special delivery!!!


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

Sub'd.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Huckleberry Sound said:


> Can you sketch up a section cut of how it is going to work. Maybe that might help you to see in one direction or the other. I work in the architecture field and most of the time we never now how a building is going to go together until we cut a section of the building. Its like taking the building, slicing it in half and open it up to see how it is put together. It might reveal what you are looking for.
> 
> O I know why you taking off - special delivery!!!


i will post a clearer sketch up tonight, or first thing in the morning.

What you see from the picture is the bottom of the main sub box and then the opening where part of the box that is recessed into the spare tire well. No sides yet. Maybe once i get some height in the hatch area the light will come on.


Tomorrow i will get some 22 degree PVC pieces and see if i can put two flared ports between the subs and have enough space to put the actual tubes. If i do that is the direction i will go. But i am not opposed to slot port if i have to go that direction.

And yes i believe the subs should arrive tomorrow


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Again great job that you've done, I have one question. Where did you get your Helix dsp from ?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Coppertone said:


> Again great job that you've done, I have one question. Where did you get your Helix dsp from ?


Thanks, and i got it from Syracuse Customs. They are semi local to me.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Here is a quick png file of how i think it will go. And a copy of the actual photo of the trunk as it sits now. Notice how the ports run out of room if dont angle them down into the spare tire well. Not even sure if they will fit when i angle them.

I can't build the box at full height all the way back because i need to keep the amps below grade

the two smaller circles represent the flared port, and the small rectangle would be where the slot port could go.


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## ccapil (Jun 1, 2013)

So to clarify, you are using the space inside the spare tyre well? If so how many cubic feet is it? 
You may have to build up and raise the floor a inch or 2. I see what you mean how the spare tyre well, is off centre to the left, that must be a pain to design around that. Maybe you could play around with having the subs front to back instead of the way you have it modelled now? And push them over to the left to since the spare wheel well is over that side. It may give you room to get all the cubic feet you need and fit the ports in properly. It won't give the mirrored look you want, but you could place the 2 amps and the dsp off to the right side (passenger) to give a balanced look. Just a thought but looks good!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

ccapil said:


> So to clarify, you are using the space inside the spare tyre well? If so how many cubic feet is it?
> You may have to build up and raise the floor a inch or 2. I see what you mean how the spare tyre well, is off centre to the left, that must be a pain to design around that. Maybe you could play around with having the subs front to back instead of the way you have it modelled now? And push them over to the left to since the spare wheel well is over that side. It may give you room to get all the cubic feet you need and fit the ports in properly. It won't give the mirrored look you want, but you could place the 2 amps and the dsp off to the right side (passenger) to give a balanced look. Just a thought but looks good!


spare tire well is 17.5 x 18.5 by 7.75...so about 1.25 cuft minus any space that the ports will take up.Yes it will become part of the sub box.

above that i will have about 40x7x12 or so..i will fine tune that once i figure out ports...for a final SQ ft of 2.5cuft plus woofer and port.

i would prefer to leave the amps and proc where they are because i have all the wiring in place for that location. meaning i would save a couple hundred bucks by leaving them in place.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Going to go with slot port...it will not be as sexy, but it should work fine.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

I just heard that the twins were delivered!!!!
do they have names?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Huckleberry Sound said:


> I just heard that the twins were delivered!!!!
> do they have names?



I'm not sure what to call them, maybe "thing one" and "thing two"?

Trust me guys, photos do not do these subs justice, i only hope they sound HALF as good as they look.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

I believe I just shared a tear!!!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

How much were those if you don'tine me asking?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> How much were those if you don'tine me asking?


From Seinfeld.."i paid what they cost"


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

Out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the ID 8's?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> Out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the ID 8's?


i loved the ID8's. I have owned them on at least 3 different occasions over the past 25 years. Along with IDQ 10's and IDQ12's. So i am a huge ID fan.

But in this particular install the ID8's sounded a little flat. Plus i wanted to explore some higher end ported speakers.

I will be real honest about the sound of the these HAT drivers vs the ID8's. You don't read alot about the HAT subwoofers, so i was curious.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

quietfly said:


> Out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the ID 8's?


There are starting to be a few builds going up out there with them. I know for myself I will end using using a few pair. Time will tell, but I am definitely on them. They have already started to win big time in the world of Sound Quality subs...

Here are some post with them being installed by other sources.

https://www.facebook.com/hybridaudi...178054.189181953946/10152068443973947/?type=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...8626_8488343601225256363_n.jpg&size=2048,1365


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

i understood about the HAT's i wsa just wondering about why he changed. lord knows i get the bug to switch equipment often enough...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> i understood about the HAT's i wsa just wondering about why he changed. lord knows i get the bug to switch equipment often enough...


i changed amps 3 or 4 times in the past 8 months. This is only my second set of speakers this year. Last year i went thru 3 sets, and 5 different boxes

I plan on leaving this install in place till i sell the car in 3 years.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

miniSQ said:


> i changed amps 3 or 4 times in the past 8 months. This is only my second set of speakers this year. Last year i went thru 3 sets, and 5 different boxes
> 
> I plan on leaving this install in place till i sell the car in 3 years.


Famous last words....


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Beginnings of the slot port...this is the lower chamber. I will extend it straight up another 7 or 8 inches to be flush with the top of the sub box. I am not too worried about the messiness of the caulk, because i will line all that with either acoustic foam or wool. The tube was old just did not want to flow.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

the whole tirewell off centered thing was REALLY bugging me. It meant one sub would have open space behind it and the other would not. It may or may not have mattered, but my OCD was flaring up tonight.

So i patched together a "template" that i will now recut tomorrow. The opening will be centered and both drivers will have equal wood behind them.

Next i can move on to cutting the sides and the top for the subs.


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

sub'd....

looking good so far


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## crea_78 (Jan 6, 2014)

Subd since I am considering getting 2 10" HAT subs as well. Looking forward to read how they sound. Mine will definitely be in a sealed box instead of ported.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

looking good!!!


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

love the work so far


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i made a little progress over the past 2 days with the box, but i also have some concerns. Look at the pictures and tell me if the box is going to suck or not

Its a slot ported box with 2 joined chambers, lower and upper chamber are different shapes and each is about 1.25 cuft. with a smallish squarish opening joining them. 

Basically will all the nooks and crannies affect the sound in a negative way?

In the sedond picture you see the opening in to the bottom chamber.

In the last picture you can see the 2 levels as they will be joined together.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i guess noone is saying dont do it, so moving on with it


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I wholeheartedly approve of it, and can't wait to hear your impressions when it's finished.


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

I cant think of any issues it will cause. Wrap that thing up and get it in the car! lol


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

deeppinkdiver said:


> I cant think of any issues it will cause. Wrap that thing up and get it in the car! lol


waiting on some foam gasket tape to arrive on monday. I am going to screw those two boxes together in the car so they will be modular when it comes time to take them out. I dont think i could get the box in the car in one piece.

Plus i have a week off starting on the 25th, so progress will come, promise.


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Sounds like you have it all planned out. Thats usually the toughest part, the plan.. That and the time. Sounds like you will be making progress soon. Sweet


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

deeppinkdiver said:


> Sounds like you have it all planned out. Thats usually the toughest part, the plan.. That and the time. Sounds like you will be making progress soon. Sweet


If it sounds that way, i am surprised, because i am totally making this up as I go


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

looks great, i don't think you'll have any issues as long as the box is air tight once it's placed together in the trunk.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> looks great, i don't think you'll have any issues as long as the box is air tight once it's placed together in the trunk.


that will be the challenge, getting it air tight. i am thinking i will use a layer of the closed cell foam on each half, and then silicone it from inside.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

a smidgeon of progress...holes are cut, and i am searching out metal grates for speaker protection. I routed 12" square openings figuring i would just screw some steel or aluminum mesh grates over the top.







Edit: forgot the tool pic


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

Very nice ....


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

I like it. Very interested to read what your impressions are of the subs.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Thanks everyone for all the positive feedback and encouragement. Things will be picking up soon, i start my vacation on Friday.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Vacation day one is here...and i already had my first clear thought. My plan was to assemble the two pieces of the box in the vehicle. But there was really no way this was going to work. Its hard enough to get something sealed while its on a workbench. Doing it inside a car would have been impossible.

So i trimmed it out the best i could and i am attaching it together now in my living room, and i will glue, screw and seal it up and if it doesn;t fit into the car then it will go into the firepit and we will drop back and punt. But its too cold outside right now to work, so i will let the glue dry and move on to the amp rack itself. one of the advantages of the wife being away is i can work inside


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

I am watching youngman!!!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Huckleberry Sound said:


> I am watching youngman!!!


i hope to have noise coming out of the box in a couple days.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

miniSQ said:


> i hope to have noise coming out of the box in a couple days.


You are on your way to greatness!


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

IN... this has also got my attention! nice, detailed work...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Mailman just came, and brought me some speaker grill/grates i ordered. Its going to be a shame to cover these drivers. This stuff is so overkill for speaker covers, but i could not find a huge selection of places that would sell 12x12 aluminum or steel that i could get delivered this week. This stuff is over an 1/8th inch thick.

Custom Perforated Steel 5 8 inch Hole 7 Gauge Price per 12 Square Inches | eBay


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

make sure you dampen it....


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> make sure you dampen it....


i know..i am trying to think about the best way to do that. i have some plasti dip laying around. I was wondering if dipping it in that would be enough. Or that plus some kind of thin rubber spacer?


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Damn...7 gauge? That's pretty thick stuff. I seriously doubt you will need to dampen that just as long as you attach it good around the perimeter. That it one of the most rigid speaker grills I have ever seen.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

bigbubba said:


> Damn...7 gauge? That's pretty thick stuff. I seriously doubt you will need to dampen that just as long as you attach it good around the perimeter. That it one of the most rigid speaker grills I have ever seen.


It was not by design...it was just what was available to me here in Vermont. I will for sure be able to throw groceries and boxes on top of it, and in a pinch i could use it to grill some hamburgers.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

No,no,no....I dig it. Yeah, you will be able to stand on that thing when you're done.

I work with sheetmetal all day at work but unfortunately we don't do anything with perforated material. I need to make me some different grills for my midbass.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Box is done...well almost done. I just hope it fits in the car, taking a big chance here, but its the only way to assure its sealed, and the port is solid. I never could have done all that i did today inside the vehicle.

I have to cut one more pice of wood for between the two woofers and create the port opening. I am going to attempt to flare it at least a little bit, although i don't think its really needed. I just did a simple round over on the internal side of the port. By the way, the port to the best of my calculations is 22" long. 12" wide, and 1.5" deep. I think thats around 27hz. Too late to do anythign about it now


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Looks good Tim! Waiting to hear your in car impressions! Hope the wifey doesn't come home soon to find that in the living room


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## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Nice craftmanship... wish that I had the patience building such enclosures


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## plcrides (Mar 21, 2014)

thats awesome man,its gonna sound great in that hatch,and yep i was thinking to myself wow i could grill some burgers on those grill's .i like them,heavy metal,its different and thats whats cool about it.


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## YukonXL (Mar 7, 2014)

Hey, great build so far. Is The narrow port going to cause any issues?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

YukonXL said:


> Hey, great build so far. Is The narrow port going to cause any issues?


i dont think so, its 1.5" x 12"...which is not terrible. And i am only running 500watts to the 2 subs. I have done 1.5" ports in many HT subs with twice that much power and never had any problems.

But if anyone would like to model this for me, i can prived T/s specs.


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

We the amount of effort you have invested in this cabinet I am sure hoping you get the performance desired . 
My occupation is interior millwork instillation . I appreciate a fellow wood worker with skills .
You did very good on the cabinet . Put some juice to it and take a listen ......


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

BlackHHR said:


> We the amount of effort you have invested in this cabinet I am sure hoping you get the performance desired .
> My occupation is interior millwork instillation . I appreciate a fellow wood worker with skills .
> You did very good on the cabinet . Put some juice to it and take a listen ......


And it fits...i had to trim some of the speaker baffles, so i lost some of that symmetry, but at least it won't have to go into the burn pile. 

All in all its about 2 inches taller than i was hoping for, but it is in and it will all be covered with a false floor anyway. There will be a center trim piece added between the woofers once i get back to work next week and can fabricate it.

Off to mount the speakers next.


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## lostthumb (Dec 16, 2005)

miniSQ said:


> [/URL]
> 
> Edit: forgot the tool pic


How do you like your cnc router? How big of a piece of wood can your machine handle?


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> And it fits...i had to trim some of the speaker baffles, so i lost some of that symmetry, but at least it won't have to go into the burn pile.
> 
> All in all its about 2 inches taller than i was hoping for, but it is in and it will all be covered with a false floor anyway. There will be a center trim piece added between the woofers once i get back to work next week and can fabricate it.
> 
> Off to mount the speakers next.


It will trim right out and you will never see where you had to modify it to fit . We had to do some adjusting with a belt sander on the bottom of our baffle , but it is hidden . 
You did good ...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

lostthumb said:


> How do you like your cnc router? How big of a piece of wood can your machine handle?



i works great...we mostly use if for cutting out sign foam letters and such..but also we use it for personal stuff. I make speaker boxes, and a guy i work with makes his own skis with it.

Largest piece i can out on is like 34"x35" without moving it. But often use longer pieces, maybe 60 or so, and it allows me to the software register the cut, and flip the board around 180.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

BlackHHR said:


> It will trim right out and you will never see where you had to modify it to fit . We had to do some adjusting with a belt sander on the bottom of our baffle , but it is hidden .
> You did good ...


Thanks, and my OCD is kicking in a little.:worried:

i cant really trim the back piece because of the box, but i can re glue on the side piece and front piece i cut off

PS i love your build, and i love that you are involving your kids.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

some more progress, and i apologize for seemingly adding random shots as i go, instead of completing something and then dropping 40 pictures in a post. But i am just kind of doing it step by step and i want to give people the chance to step in and tell me if something is wrong or can suggest a better way to do it. 

I wired each DVC 4 speaker in series, and then wired the drivers together in parallel which will present a 4ohm load to my 500/1. I could have ordered the DVC 2 drivers, and ended with a 2ohm load, but these Clarus subs are not real power monsters, and are pretty efficient. Plus the amp reportedly produces the same out at 4ohms and it does at 2.

I wont screw the drivers down until i confirm that they are wired correctly.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Looking good youngman!!!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Moving on to wiring, stripping it all back to bare bones and i am not sure how to do this. Here are some pictures of the layout i had before i started this rebuild. I have RCA cables to make this work again. But i would like to think about it for the rest of the day and nigh and decide if i can envision a better way to lay it all out so the wiring can be neater. What would Bing and Joey do *LOL*

Off to obsess over this for awhile with a beer or two, or maybe some Lagavulin 16


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

While sipping on some Lagavulin, i had a thought.."levels"...i have a lot of height, so why not do all my wiring on the panel that is in place now, and then put a second amp board on top of that one and feed the wiring thru holes that i will drill in the appropriate locations.


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## YukonXL (Mar 7, 2014)

There you go. Make everything flush with the New floor. And everything will be out of sight


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

YukonXL said:


> There you go. Make everything flush with the New floor. And everything will be out of sight


i have the second board gluing up tonight. i didn't have a piece left that was long enough in one piece. But being a true Vermonter, nothing will go to waste

i will build in some side panels and some divider panels to make it all flush with the top. Then i will most likely just cover it all with some carpeted luan or something simple.

Then i need to decide if i want to stay with my 300/4 bridged and using my passive crossovers for from comps, or go for it and run active. Makes sense to go active i think.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Yes i like this idea of "levels"...making progress. I just need to do some zip tie stuff, and mount the wires to the board in place. Then place the amp rack on top and feed the wires up thru the holes.

I must say its very nice that my wife is in florida this weekend, as it makes it easy to work inside


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Getting closer..had to stop to put a band aid on


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

Looking great!


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## crea_78 (Jan 6, 2014)

Looking very nice!! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.


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## ccapil (Jun 1, 2013)

Man that's looking great now it's in the car, nice work! Fits nice, and I'm loving those HAT cones!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Powered up...with just one little scare. And I still don't know how to do the whole power up thing without getting a spark at the fuse. But thats another topic. 

I wired it all up and then put in the fuse at the battery, and got a little bit of a spark. Turned on the stereo and no sound. Looked back and amps were running, but no light on the DSP. I freaked for a second thinking the spark took out the power supply or some crazy thing. But i just unplugged it and plugged it back in and it fired up.

I need to build onto the amp rack today to allow my to put a false floor over the top of everything. I think i will cover the amps with a piece of plexi so they show when i want them to.

The Clarus subs sound tight and full, and they are effortless in the way that they blend with the fronts, and that is with no adjustments made to the old set up. Very happy so far with how they sound, but i am going to break them in a little before seeing what they can do.

Yes, I think i am going to LOVE these subs...


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Looking good youngman!!!


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

we really like our hybrid sub. You did good. I was very curious how the twins would like the ported cabinet . They sound like they like their new home . looks very good ..


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

looks Sweet!!!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Moving on to the doors...The inside panels of the doors ( behind the speaker ) is deadened, and the door panel is deadened also. But i have some left over to do more to this portion of the door.

I made that ghetto speaker ring in the winter time, but it is still bone dry and no signs of wear, so i may just leave it for now. I will be addressing the tweeter once everything else is done. I would like to angle it a little, and do some fabrication.

But my main concern right now is i want to try running my comps "active". However i do not see anyway to get speaker wire into the door without taking the door off. Any help or suggestion would be welcomed.

EDIT: i got in...slightly getto, but there is a hidden grommet just under the molex plug that allowed me to get a wire into the door...so active it is.


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## SWINE (Aug 29, 2008)

subscribed


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Switching to active from passive, was much easier than i expected. Not much in terms of photographs, and its raining and miserable today and for the foreseeable future, so not much new to report. I did order a MiniDSP Umik-1 so that i can use the RTA portion of the Helix software. That should be here in a couple weeks.

Here are the doors after removing the passive crossovers, cleaning up the wiring and adding what little bit of sound deadener i had left.

Speakers are Seas Lotus Comps...the performance line, not the reference. But now that i am active, i have my eyes out for the reference tweeters


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## crea_78 (Jan 6, 2014)

Looking good!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Any updates?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Not really any updates, life got real busy once the snow went away, but maybe after this weekend it will slow down enough to do some work. Between getting yard under control, and then last weekend and this coming weekend, i am following DMB on our own personal mid life crisis tour.

In a nutshell, i love the way it sounds, but hate the way it looks. I may pull the ported box out and go with a sealed config, and have the woofers magnets showing.

TBD.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Here's an update: I am tearing out the trunk and starting over. I never really liked the way the box came out, so last month i sent a request to Pete at PWK for a design and it came back a couple days ago. So i am building the box today and ripping out the trunk.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

WOW - I am looking forward to this!!!


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

miniSQ said:


> Here's an update: I am tearing out the trunk and starting over. I never really liked the way the box came out, so last month i sent a request to Pete at PWK for a design and it came back a couple days ago. So i am building the box today and ripping out the trunk.


 can you give us a sneak peak at what it will look like?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> can you give us a sneak peak at what it will look like?


Its going to be all about function and very little about form. Pete designed me a nice Transmision line/waveguide box for the two 10's and i will just mount all the stuff on the back.

Here is a dry fit:


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

How was the process of using PWK design? Does he verbally interact with you to make sure you get what you want?


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Im curious about that guys services also. I may inquire about a design for my new home theater 15 box.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Regarding PWK...it was a mixed bag to be honest. It took about 30 days to get my plans, and there was not a lot of interaction. But i didn't ask him any real questions before the plans were delivered, and all the ones i asked after he answered in a reasonable amount of time.

As you have seen on the website i sent him my max dimensions and what type of music i listen too. And 30 days later after no hearing anything i commented on a post to his facebook page and Steve Milton asked me for my case number and i gave it to him. No response to that from him or Pete and a few days later i asked again for an update and he said my drawings had been emailed. I gave them a second address and they emailed them to me.

No instructions, no specs...no "enjoy your drawings and let me know how else i can help you"...nothing, just a set of drawings. So not a terribly warm and fuzzy feeling. But i guess with them time is money so maybe if they need to avoid as much back and fourth as possible. 

But Pete did respond to a question i had this weekend during the build when it was discovered he had the wrong physical dimensions to the Clarus woofer. I t seems Scott changed basket size from the first production run to whats currently shipping. And it made a difference as to woofer placement. He then was able to answer any basic questions i had about placement in car and what to set my SS filter to.

I should have it hooked up tomorrow and i will report back on if it sounds better or worse than the ported box i had them in to begin with.

here is the drawing...and it also came with measured drawings that were very detailed and easy to cut and build from.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

nice!!! did you fire it up yet?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

quietfly said:


> nice!!! did you fire it up yet?


Got it fired up tonight, and the sound was quite impressive from the new box. I didn't get a chance to spend a lot of time listening to it, but my initial reaction is that it is going to work out just fine.

I cant say yet if its a ton better than what i had, but i think in terms of overall output and impact it does sound like it has more of both. I will definitely need to do some more sound deadening in the hatch area.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

updates coming...after a month with the PWK box i have decided that i don't love it enough to give up that much trunk space.

I am going to build a sealed enclosure..into the spare tire well and go back in the direction i was headed in the beginning. A false floor.

I just hope to do it better.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

I was reading through your log and was wondering why that hatch looked so familiar then I realized its the same frame as my Kia Rio. I was just thinking about a ported box, looks like you had a hell of a time getting it to work for ya.

It looks good though, and I agree there is no way I could give up all that trunk space unless I loved the sound.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

REGULARCAB said:


> I was reading through your log and was wondering why that hatch looked so familiar then I realized its the same frame as my Kia Rio. I was just thinking about a ported box, looks like you had a hell of a time getting it to work for ya.
> 
> It looks good though, and I agree there is no way I could give up all that trunk space unless I loved the sound.


i tried 2 different ported boxes...and i don't think ( at least with these drivers and my car) that i gained enough low end extension to make it worth the space that it took up. Plus with both boxes the bass sounded a little flabby. Not terribly so, but i expect with the sealed box it will tighten up a bit.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

The issue I'm having with my sealed box atm is either there is no bass or too much nothing in between. Must have made a one note wonder or something I'm waiting for a few measurements and some tuning before I change it up.

Its funny to see the little differences in our cars from the factory.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

REGULARCAB said:


> The issue I'm having with my sealed box atm is either there is no bass or too much nothing in between. Must have made a one note wonder or something I'm waiting for a few measurements and some tuning before I change it up.
> 
> Its funny to see the little differences in our cars from the factory.


i wanted the kia Rio...but it was not available in mid 2012 when i bought my GT.

What sealed box and sub do you have? If you were closer you could pop this PWK box in your hatch and compare.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

The new body sytle Rio (internal designation UB) came out in '11 as a '12 model, but it was really difficult to find a Rio5 for a while. I got mine in 4/12 and I looked at about 4 dealers "near" me and they all had at least 2 by then.

I traded in my Genesis Coupe 2.0T Premium on it. I like the Elantra GT too, but not as much as I like the Veloster, lol.

REGULARCAB (BTW, what's your first name so I can stop calling you "regular" lol) I noticed in another post you estimated about 6 cu ft in the spare tire well, and I'm pretty sure it's not close to that. The disc I made in my spare tire well was 22" across, and if the height of the enclosure was 10", that still only comes up around 2.2 cu ft. And that doesn't include material thickness. Makes me wonder if you estimated volume wrong, typically sealed boxes are pretty forgiving, unless they are to small and then they get "peaky," which kinda sounds like the problem you're having.

Jay


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JayinMI said:


> The new body sytle Rio (internal designation UB) came out in '11 as a '12 model, but it was really difficult to find a Rio5 for a while. I got mine in 4/12 and I looked at about 4 dealers "near" me and they all had at least 2 by then.
> 
> I traded in my Genesis Coupe 2.0T Premium on it. I like the Elantra GT too, but not as much as I like the Veloster, lol.
> 
> ...


i found his build log...will be cool to go thru and see the similarities to mine.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...gallery/164795-regularcabs-2013-kia-rio5.html


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

JayinMI said:


> The new body sytle Rio (internal designation UB) came out in '11 as a '12 model, but it was really difficult to find a Rio5 for a while. I got mine in 4/12 and I looked at about 4 dealers "near" me and they all had at least 2 by then.
> 
> I traded in my Genesis Coupe 2.0T Premium on it. I like the Elantra GT too, but not as much as I like the Veloster, lol.
> 
> ...


Totally missed this. The names Brian btw :laugh: Yeah I took the diameter not the radius when I did those calcs and guessed something like 7.5 inches in height... so yeah 

The box im running atm is a simple rectangular box at .8 cubic feet. No polyfill atm. A little eq and things are sounding far better atm. I do wish for a little more output however.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Back at it, and i swear that this will be the final install

Seeing Bings install in his own car motivated me to pull that ginat PWK box out and go back to the original plan of doing a false floor. I will be about an inch or so above the factory floor...but close.

Now i just need to channel my inner "bing" and wrap my head about that wiring mess.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

I didnt get it finished this weekend, as i ran shot on one power wire, and one ground wire, and no zip ties. One of the joys of living in vermont is i will now wait for amazon prime on wednesday. You guys who can run to the store for 4 ga wire count your blessings. I will count my blessings that i dont need to lock my house or my car no matter where i am in the state...trade off i guess.

I will make a beauty plate to recess the woofers and cover the amps next week. Initial listening makes me think i can live with this set up for the winter LOL>


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Looking good. I need smaller amps :disappointed:

I cant really tell, or have overlooked it, are you keeping the spare?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

REGULARCAB said:


> Looking good. I need smaller amps :disappointed:
> 
> I cant really tell, or have overlooked it, are you keeping the spare?


yeah my life would be easier if i had smaller amps too. 

I am not keeping the spare. I am using it for part of the sealed box. Roughly .9 cuft of air space is in the lower section of the box. Then the part you see is also about .9. I did this to keep the floor as close to factory as i could. As i said i missed about about an inch and a half.

Next i am redoing the front doors and sail panel, and then i will finally get into tuning.


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## LMS (Jul 1, 2008)

I'm assuming that the previous setup was louder, but how's the sq of the hat's compared to the id's?

Are these sealed or ported?

BTW, I haven't read the previous posts.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

LMS said:


> I'm assuming that the previous setup was louder, but how's the sq of the hat's compared to the id's?
> 
> Are these sealed or ported?
> 
> BTW, I haven't read the previous posts.


Too early to tell on the sealed vs ported vs 1/4 wave box with the clarus. This build is only using the Clarus. My last build i had ID8's. I would say over all comparing the ID8's and the clarus c10's...i would give the nod to the clarus in every way. More impact...cleaner and play lower. But if you want to move up to the the IDQ's i think it would be closer. The clarus would still have more impact and get louder, but i think the IDQ would be a little snappier.

I will get more seat time tomorrow and will be able to give my opinion on sealed vs ported of the Clarus. I can say i am thrilled to get my hatch back in time for winter.


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## LMS (Jul 1, 2008)

miniSQ said:


> Too early to tell on the sealed vs ported vs 1/4 wave box with the clarus. This build is only using the Clarus. My last build i had ID8's. I would say over all comparing the ID8's and the clarus c10's...i would give the nod to the clarus in every way. More impact...cleaner and play lower. But if you want to move up to the the IDQ's i think it would be closer. The clarus would still have more impact and get louder, but i think the IDQ would be a little snappier.
> 
> I will get more seat time tomorrow and will be able to give my opinion on sealed vs ported of the Clarus. I can say i am thrilled to get my hatch back in time for winter.


I've always regarded the idq as the standard for sq. I've yet to play with the offerings of dynaudio, hat or morel. It sure is satisfying when i switch out parts of my system for different products and the improvement is noticeable. Sounds like you made a step in the right direction. Congrats.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

LMS said:


> I've always regarded the idq as the standard for sq. I've yet to play with the offerings of dynaudio, hat or morel. It sure is satisfying when i switch out parts of my system for different products and the improvement is noticeable. Sounds like you made a step in the right direction. Congrats.


 I have had Idq or ID 90% of my systems over the past 25 years. I love them , I just felt like making a change this time.


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