# Replacing Mark Levinson system



## ~clover (Jun 18, 2013)

Hey all,

I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 with the Mark Levinson system. My previous car (VW GTI) I had an aftermarket Pioneer headunit with a 13 band EQ, Polk Audio components up front, stock speakers for fill in the rear, and 2 12" subs in the trunk. The system sounded awesome... everything was super clear and loud and you heard every detail in the music. I added subs to fix the lack of low end in the Lexus, but the ML still doesn't even compare and I'm not happy with it. I've been searching all day and it basically looks like if I want to upgrade, I'm going to have to scrap the whole system because of how complicated it is. Biggest issue is I need to keep the factory head unit because the HVAC is integrated in it as well as all the navi, warning chimes, etc. go through the factory amp/dsp. I want to retain the stock volume knob as well which also seems to be an issue. Can anyone provide feedback on if the setup below would work? (or maybe someone else can chime in with a better solution?)

*Rockford Fosgate DSR1* (supposedly with the right harness, it will plug into the factory amp and keep all the factory functions. also supposed to flatten the factory amp signal and I can use the DSP to tune the signal going to my amp. hopefully stock head unit volume knob will work with this and the signal won't change as volume is turned up/down?)

*Morel Virtus 603* (front speakers... woofer mounted in door, mid range mounted in dash, tweeter mounted in custom sail panel on the doors)

*Morel Maximo Ultra 602* (rear speakers)

*Morel MPS 4.400* (amp for front and rear speakers. ALTERNATIVE: use 6 channel amp for the front and run the front 3 way system active instead of using the included passive crossovers, and get another amp for the rear speakers. Don't think I can make this work though since the DSP only has 8 outputs)

*Alpine-MRV-M1200* (Sub amp. Currently using MRP-M500 to push 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D412's but I want to upgrade the sub amp)

I would plan on running new speaker wire to all the new speaker locations from the amp and just disconnecting the ML speakers so if I ever wanted to sell the car and go back to stock I could just put the speakers back in and hook everything up. 

TLDR: Can someone chime in on the best option for a newbie that wants to install speaker, amps and a DSP while retaining the stock head unit functionalities on a Mark Levinson equipped car? 

Thank you!


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## gregerst22 (Dec 18, 2012)

I had the same car but without the ML. As you mentioned, there's isn't a good factory integration system. I originally connected a Helix dsp to the amps output. The midrange, tweets, and door speakers were used to sum a full signal. It worked ok but I later installed a Pioneer 80PRS in the glove box and extended the face plate to where the seat heater / cool controls are, I moved those to the center console cubby. A bit of work but I was able to bypass the factory audio system and get a clean signal. I do not have the car anymore but still have the 80PRS with the extended face plate.

Another good option might be to use the Helix dsp, director and usb module.


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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

I'd use a fix 82/86 to make a flat signal. I wouldn't bother with the rear speakers.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

I'll be following this thread as I'm looking at an RC with ML, but whats holding me back is the lack of a factory integration option.

In my searches, I ran across this thread at Club Lexus and in post #2 there is a link to the ML wiring diagram for the IS... 

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is...625-2017-is350-f-sport-ml-wiring-diagram.html

Essentially, you would determine all the signals required to keep your audio, chimes, etc... and build your own wiring harness that connects to the input plug(s) going to the ML amp and feeds those signals to a DSP (I highly recommend Helix due to the great interface).


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

Scratch what I just said. According to several posts in this thread, if you unplug the ML amp, you lose control over the volume from the HU/steering wheel;

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/877844-post16.html


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## ~clover (Jun 18, 2013)

Thanks for the input all! I did some more research and after finding other people that had premium sound systems where the signal was processed at the amp level and the DSR1 worked for them, I basically came to the conclusion the DSR1 seems to be the best bet to integrate with the factory head unit and keep all the warnings/chimes etc. Now the question I'm battling is whether to go active with a 2 way component system (tweeters in the sails and woofers in the doors), or go passive with a 3 way system (woofers in the doors, mid range in the factory dash location, tweeters in the sails). The biggest advantage I can see with going with a 2 way component is I could go active and control all the crossover points, time delays, etc to each speaker. And hopefully there would be less chance of phasing issues? Biggest advantage I see with the 3 way system is I'd have the same amount of speakers up front as the car was designed with. Biggest downside... I'd have to run the speakers on a passive crossover because the DSR1 can only handle 8 channels. Also, the midrange woofer would be mounted in the dash and it's pointed up at the windshield so I'm not sure that's the best placement? Any input on 3 way passive vs 2 way active?



gregerst22 said:


> I had the same car but without the ML. As you mentioned, there's isn't a good factory integration system. I originally connected a Helix dsp to the amps output. The midrange, tweets, and door speakers were used to sum a full signal. It worked ok but I later installed a Pioneer 80PRS in the glove box and extended the face plate to where the seat heater / cool controls are, I moved those to the center console cubby. A bit of work but I was able to bypass the factory audio system and get a clean signal. I do not have the car anymore but still have the 80PRS with the extended face plate.
> 
> Another good option might be to use the Helix dsp, director and usb module.


Thanks for the info! After a lot of reading I decided to try the DSR1. If it doesn't work, I may have to contemplate doing an aftermarket head unit like you did and just hide it. Just wondering, did you use the stock speakers or did you go aftermarket? If aftermarket, did you use the factory locations for them?


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## gregerst22 (Dec 18, 2012)

~clover said:


> ...
> 
> Thanks for the info! After a lot of reading I decided to try the DSR1. If it doesn't work, I may have to contemplate doing an aftermarket head unit like you did and just hide it. Just wondering, did you use the stock speakers or did you go aftermarket? If aftermarket, did you use the factory locations for them?


I tried different locations and different speakers. For subs I did a pair of AE 18's infinite baffle. The Lexus is setup perfect for those. I ran 8's, 6.5s & 7's in the doors. 4.5" in the factory dash location with tweets and then tried sail pods with GB25's. 
I think you could have a really nice sounding 2-way system in that car just by going with good tweeter in custom sails and 6.5" in the factory door location. Add a single or pair of 12's or 18 IB. I was impressed with the AudioFrog 6.5" when I tested it back to back with the Scanspeak 18WU in that car. If it were me and I would go with GB60 and the GB15 tweeters.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

gregerst22 said:


> I tried different locations and different speakers. For subs I did a pair of AE 18's infinite baffle.


Wait... what? How in the world did you get two 18's in an IS?


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## gregerst22 (Dec 18, 2012)

Whoa you’re right. I meant 15’s ?


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## ~clover (Jun 18, 2013)

gregerst22 said:


> I tried different locations and different speakers. For subs I did a pair of AE 18's infinite baffle. The Lexus is setup perfect for those. I ran 8's, 6.5s & 7's in the doors. 4.5" in the factory dash location with tweets and then tried sail pods with GB25's.
> I think you could have a really nice sounding 2-way system in that car just by going with good tweeter in custom sails and 6.5" in the factory door location. Add a single or pair of 12's or 18 IB. I was impressed with the AudioFrog 6.5" when I tested it back to back with the Scanspeak 18WU in that car. If it were me and I would go with GB60 and the GB15 tweeters.


I can tell I'm still somewhat a newbie to car audio... I just looked up the AudioFrogs and while they're more expensive, it definitely sounds like they're worth it based off what people have to say about them! I may do those instead of Morels. Thanks for the suggestion! I think I'll definitely stick with the two way component setup though since it should be easier to tune. So.... now I'm thinking about doing a similar setup as you and running a second aftermarket head unit. Reason being... if I'm spending this much on speakers, I don't want to risk not being happy with the sound and the factory head unit seems to be the piece of equipment that cripples every audio install (definitely was in my last two cars). Any chance I could buy your leftover 80PRS and extended face plate off you? Also just wondering... how did you power the head unit? With my sub amp I ran a remote wire, but I'm not sure how that would work with a head unit. Only other concern I have with running a second head unit is relocating the heated seat controls.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

~clover said:


> I can tell I'm still somewhat a newbie to car audio... I just looked up the AudioFrogs and while they're more expensive, it definitely sounds like they're worth it based off what people have to say about them! I may do those instead of Morels. Thanks for the suggestion! I think I'll definitely stick with the two way component setup though since it should be easier to tune. So.... now I'm thinking about doing a similar setup as you and running a second aftermarket head unit. Reason being... if I'm spending this much on speakers, I don't want to risk not being happy with the sound and the factory head unit seems to be the piece of equipment that cripples every audio install (definitely was in my last two cars). Any chance I could buy your leftover 80PRS and extended face plate off you? Also just wondering... how did you power the head unit? With my sub amp I ran a remote wire, but I'm not sure how that would work with a head unit. Only other concern I have with running a second head unit is relocating the heated seat controls.


Nothing wrong with the Morels you listed above, they are very nice speakers. AF's are nice as well, and Andy is on these boards pretty regularly, so you can also expect good support.


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## gregerst22 (Dec 18, 2012)

~clover said:


> I can tell I'm still somewhat a newbie to car audio... I just looked up the AudioFrogs and while they're more expensive, it definitely sounds like they're worth it based off what people have to say about them! I may do those instead of Morels. Thanks for the suggestion! I think I'll definitely stick with the two way component setup though since it should be easier to tune. So.... now I'm thinking about doing a similar setup as you and running a second aftermarket head unit. Reason being... if I'm spending this much on speakers, I don't want to risk not being happy with the sound and the factory head unit seems to be the piece of equipment that cripples every audio install (definitely was in my last two cars). Any chance I could buy your leftover 80PRS and extended face plate off you? Also just wondering... how did you power the head unit? With my sub amp I ran a remote wire, but I'm not sure how that would work with a head unit. Only other concern I have with running a second head unit is relocating the heated seat controls.


The AF are going to be worth it. I would be sure to get the GB15, not the GB10 tweet to mate up with the GB60's. It will sound great and be easier to integrate into the car and tune. I think it's smart for you to bypass the factory HU and go aftermarket. Send me a PM and I'll hook you up with the 80PRS. I don't plan on using it in my new build. The soldering job isn't the best but it's functional and did not give me any issues. I also have another unmodified 80PRS that I kept as a spare. At one time I seriously considered taking the heat seater button apart and integrating it into another area of the console but never got around to it. For remote turn on I tapped a wire behind the factory HU it worked great, both HU turn on and off at the same time. I don't remember which wire I used off the top of my head but I may have written it down.


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## ~clover (Jun 18, 2013)

PM'd! Thanks for all the info. If I can get the second head unit integrated then I could just run a Helix DSP.2 instead of the DSR1


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## Angrywhopper (Jan 20, 2010)

I don't think the plug n play harness will work with Nav Equipped ML Lexus vehicles.


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## ~clover (Jun 18, 2013)

Angrywhopper said:


> I don't think the plug n play harness will work with Nav Equipped ML Lexus vehicles.


iDatalink lists nav equipped models as not compatible so you might be right. Not sure if the harness is different on the ML amp


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