# Favorite Sub Mounting Screw (excluding t-nuts and inserts)?



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

I was going to go the oft recommended coarse drywall route, but thought maybe there's a better option (aside from t-nuts and inserts).

What style you like? Also what size?


----------



## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

In that past I have always used black panhead square drive 1 inch screws with about 1/4 of clear shank from lowes. I would find a link but I never knew how difficult it was to find the right screw on amazon.


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Exterior screws for decking.


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

REGULARCAB said:


> In that past I have always used black panhead square drive 1 inch screws with about 1/4 of clear shank from lowes. I would find a link but I never knew how difficult it was to find the right screw on amazon.


I did a search for panhead coarse and found these:

#8 x 1" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.

They seem ideal for this purpose.


----------



## yogegoy (Feb 11, 2011)

I like using the Hex drive nut insert drilled from the back side then coated with Gorilla glue so no way it would accidentally fall off when removing the wide pan hex bolts.


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

I just test fitted a screw for length, and a 1" screw protrudes 5/8" past the sub. The box I'm using has 5/8" mdf, so is this good, or should I go slightly longer on the screw?

Sub is a 10" type being mounted maybe 30 degrees from perpendicular to the ground


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Just use some roofing nails...


----------



## yogegoy (Feb 11, 2011)

sirbOOm said:


> Just use some roofing nails...


Tell me did you use a roofing nail gun?


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Close. I used a Makita coredless drill and decking screws.


----------



## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

Here's another vote for decking screws. They hold great, and are a lot gentler on MDF if you've done a proper pilot hole.


----------



## THEDUKE (Aug 25, 2008)

This is what I used. 
The Madisound Speaker Store


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

THEDUKE said:


> This is what I used.
> The Madisound Speaker Store


29 cents each? Screw that!


----------



## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

xt577 said:


> I did a search for panhead coarse and found these:
> 
> #8 x 1" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws Black 100 Pcs.
> 
> They seem ideal for this purpose.



I've used these, and drywall screws in the past.





THEDUKE said:


> This is what I used.
> The Madisound Speaker Store



Those look like the ones that came with my Boston G5 enclosure. They held both the sub & passive radiator.


----------



## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Ive always liked these. The pic is of a longer screw, I use 1 inch so think less shank more thread.









You can get them here at lowes

I like the flat head, I cant imagine deck screws would hold without f-ing up the mounting hole. I also like the fact that they are square drive, probably has saved a few cones...


----------



## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

I know you said not including, but for any big projects or things I know I'll pull out and put in multiple times, I LOVE threaded inserts. Allows you to remove a speaker by hand with just an allen wrench, amazing. If not those, I use just regular course threaded drywall screws.


----------



## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Victor_inox said:


> 29 cents each? Screw that!


----------



## yogegoy (Feb 11, 2011)

:thumbsup:


T3mpest said:


> I know you said not including, but for any big projects or things I know I'll pull out and put in multiple times, I LOVE threaded inserts. Allows you to remove a speaker by hand with just an allen wrench, amazing. If not those, I use just regular course threaded drywall screws.


:thumbsup:


----------



## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

I like to use different screws on each speaker. This makes it much harder to steal if you are trying to remove it cleanly. Mix it up with hex head, phillips head, and allen screws.


----------



## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

REGULARCAB said:


> Ive always liked these. The pic is of a longer screw, I use 1 inch so think less shank more thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


these are pocket hole screws. good stuff.


----------



## nadcicle (Aug 21, 2013)

I use these. Not sure what they're called.


----------



## legend94 (Mar 15, 2006)

THEDUKE said:


> This is what I used.
> The Madisound Speaker Store


why do you use these over other cheaper options? i have seen these come with some older subs that were more expensive.


----------



## THEDUKE (Aug 25, 2008)

legend94 said:


> why do you use these over other cheaper options? i have seen these come with some older subs that were more expensive.


No reason other than I like the way the hex head looks without having to use T nuts. I do not understand why they are being labeled as expensive. I had to mount two subs which is a total of 16 screws which comes out to just under 5 bucks. I understand you can get a box of drywall screws for about that price, but at the end of the day it is just only 5 bucks. In my personal vehicle it is worth it, if I was an installer using these in installs would I use them? NO


----------



## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

Black "Wall Dog" screws for me. Work great directly into MDF or fiberglass (with small pre-drilled hole).


----------



## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

I used these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DS3HEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they look nice against a black speaker.

I know you said no inserts but so far these have worked well w/ said screw... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TSO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Josh


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

THEDUKE said:


> No reason other than I like the way the hex head looks without having to use T nuts. I do not understand why they are being labeled as expensive. I had to mount two subs which is a total of 16 screws which comes out to just under 5 bucks. I understand you can get a box of drywall screws for about that price, but at the end of the day it is just only 5 bucks. In my personal vehicle it is worth it, if I was an installer using these in installs would I use them? NO


eh - you don't know how to cut corners left and right?? just kidding. That screw from Madison actually looks pretty good and the price is reasonable too. The hex stuff on McMaster costs a whole lot. (I used some cap screws and hurricane/t-nuts on my sub.)

The other day I asked the buyer to get me some screws from McMaster as this was not available locally. The idea is just to add it into the regular/weekly purchase order to save some shipping cost. Even screws should carpool! It's 50 pieces per pack and all I needed was like 4 pieces. So they ordered 100 for me lol!!! We buy several million screws/fasteners a year (usually via local reps or they VMI it) so these buyers normally just randomly buy extra without thinking twice so that they don't have to hear any "Don't let the missing half-cent screw screw-up the entire order!!" in meetings.


----------



## legend94 (Mar 15, 2006)

THEDUKE said:


> No reason other than I like the way the hex head looks without having to use T nuts. I do not understand why they are being labeled as expensive. I had to mount two subs which is a total of 16 screws which comes out to just under 5 bucks. I understand you can get a box of drywall screws for about that price, but at the end of the day it is just only 5 bucks. In my personal vehicle it is worth it, if I was an installer using these in installs would I use them? NO


Understood. I thought maybe the hex head might provide easier install vs Phillips head.


----------



## fulletal7777 (Jun 11, 2014)

JoshHefnerX said:


> I used these 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw, Button Head, Internal Hex Drive, Meets ASME B18.3/ASTM F879, 1" Length, Fully Threaded, #10-24 Threads (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific they look nice against a black speaker.
> 
> I know you said no inserts but so far these have worked well w/ said screw... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TSO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Josh


Would those inserts work with two walls of 3/4 MDF screwed into each other?


----------



## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

These are what I use if not using inserts

TC Sounds Driver Mounting Wood Screws #8 x 1-1/2" 8 pcs.

I have a bunch left over from all the TC Sounds drivers I used to own.


----------



## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

HiloDB1 said:


> These are what I use if not using inserts
> 
> TC Sounds Driver Mounting Wood Screws #8 x 1-1/2" 8 pcs.
> 
> I have a bunch left over from all the TC Sounds drivers I used to own.


link fail. This product is no longer available.


----------



## fulletal7777 (Jun 11, 2014)

maggie-g said:


> link fail. This product is no longer available.


Works for me


----------



## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

fulletal7777 said:


> Works for me


it doesnt say that the product is no longer available for you?


----------



## fulletal7777 (Jun 11, 2014)

maggie-g said:


> it doesnt say that the product is no longer available for you?


Nope


----------



## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Am I the only one that finds it funny how quickly this thread about "sub mounting screws" has grown?

Someone asks about a speaker and a week can go without a response. LMAO


----------



## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

ANYWAYYYYY, I like using HardiBacker screws. Big threads/great grip.

http://cf.mp-cdn.net/ac/a9/38a6cafa6f3574a2638846b286cf.jpg


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Make an epoxy, wood glue, fiberglass, and filler goop and use that to hole the sub to the box. Don't even bother using screws.


















...not.


----------



## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Socket-cap machine screws... and threaded inserts 

Like these


----------



## legend94 (Mar 15, 2006)

LaserSVT said:


> Am I the only one that finds it funny how quickly this thread about "sub mounting screws" has grown?
> 
> Someone asks about a speaker and a week can go without a response. LMAO



I thought that at first but then this has not been hashed out as much as speakers that I know about. 

In fact I was pondering what I would use next time I mount a sub. Still have a massive amount of black drywall screws and have never had an issue, any reason to change?


----------



## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

legend94 said:


> I thought that at first but then this has not been hashed out as much as speakers that I know about.
> 
> In fact I was pondering what I would use next time I mount a sub. Still have a massive amount of black drywall screws and have never had an issue, any reason to change?


No reason to change. Mostly I use certain screws depending on the looks Im going for.


----------



## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

fulletal7777 said:


> Would those inserts work with two walls of 3/4 MDF screwed into each other?


Yes, just drill a hole and screw the insert down in.


----------



## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

legend94 said:


> I thought that at first but then this has not been hashed out as much as speakers that I know about.
> 
> In fact I was pondering what I would use next time I mount a sub. Still have a massive amount of black drywall screws and have never had an issue, any reason to change?


That's what are holding mine in. LOL I do buy the coarse thread versions though.


----------



## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

This thread reminds me of a time where wife and I were at a soundoff and the shop had this pretty elaborate fiberglass install that a radio station was giving away. She looks at the subs in the box and goes "look they just mounted them with drywall screws and not t-nuts". Installer was standing right there and the look on his face was classic.


----------



## legend94 (Mar 15, 2006)

LaserSVT said:


> That's what are holding mine in. LOL I do buy the coarse thread versions though.


pardon my ignorance but i had to google what coarse vs fine meant. i have a box of coarse so that is better than fine, how?


----------



## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

legend94 said:


> pardon my ignorance but i had to google what coarse vs fine meant. i have a box of coarse so that is better than fine, how?


If you look at thread depth you'll notice that course screws tend to have a deeper thread depth than fine screws. Its this thread depth that give it more bite to hold in wood.


----------



## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

What he said.


----------



## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Or in other words the threads stick out farther from the shank on coarse thread ones so they are harder to pull out.


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

what no one use nails? I use threaded inserts with machine screws, leaves no marks on sub and simplify sub swaps.


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

maggie-g said:


> link fail. This product is no longer available.


Yes it comes up no longer available.


----------



## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

Victor_inox said:


> what no one use nails? I use threaded inserts with machine screws, leaves no marks on sub and simplify sub swaps.


It still leaves a mark on the speaker, and I dont see it really simplifying sub swaps much either. I do see inserts as a benefit if you are constantly swapping out subs or when you have a speaker that is exceptionally large/heavy, like my 21" Warden I used inserts and 1/4"x20 bolts to hold it in place on my wall.


----------



## Patrick.M (Aug 1, 2014)

I used button head sheet metal screws.


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

HiloDB1 said:


> It still leaves a mark on the speaker, and I dont see it really simplifying sub swaps much either. I do see inserts as a benefit if you are constantly swapping out subs or when you have a speaker that is exceptionally large/heavy, like my 21" Warden I used inserts and 1/4"x20 bolts to hold it in place on my wall.


I use nylon washers to preserve speaker flange. yes mechanically it`s unnecessary for a few pounds speaker but it looks clean and I love threaded inserts.


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

passtim said:


> ANYWAYYYYY, I like using HardiBacker screws. Big threads/great grip.
> 
> http://cf.mp-cdn.net/ac/a9/38a6cafa6f3574a2638846b286cf.jpg












^Those look real good. At 3/16 diameter they're a little big though - pretty much the exact size of my Type R's holes, so I'm leaning towards these (going into 1" mdf):

#8 x 1-5/8" Square Bugle Head Deck Screw, 18-8 Stainless Steel | Fastenal


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

These are the best I could come up with:
SPAX #8 1-1/2 in. Phillips-Square Flat-Head Multi-Material Screws (25-Pack)-4101010400401 at The Home Depot

Coarse thread, seem tough.


----------



## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

I'm still wondering why people use a tapered head instead of a pan head. The only thing a tapered head will do is f up your mounting holes.


----------



## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

How I choose to mount my sub for screwing is none of your business....um. never mind, wrong forum...



If its a box/sub I don't care about, cheap deck screws. 

That didn't sound any better


----------



## xt577 (Apr 19, 2011)

REGULARCAB said:


> I'm still wondering why people use a tapered head instead of a pan head. The only thing a tapered head will do is f up your mounting holes.


A bit more digging and the SPAX #8 x 1.5" (& 1.25") are available in panhead (has a 5/16" diameter head).


----------



## MaasonC (Aug 6, 2019)

xt577 said:


> I was going to go the oft recommended coarse drywall route, but thought maybe there's a better option (aside from t-nuts and inserts).
> 
> What style you like? Also what size?


hey im new and looking, what did you end up going with?


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

mmm necro bump. I just run some drywall screws in and call it good.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ohhhhh, nnnoooooooooooo


Lol


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Oh, no... Here we go...















When it matters, for me it's hurricane nuts:

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-10-32-hurricane-nuts-50-pcs--081-1082


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

^I use those hurricane nuts from Parts Express, with some glue on the base/post and it sits in there solid (use a scrap board and screw to pull it in, to set first, don't hammer it in lol). They have maybe 3 types there on Parts Express. 

If you want a dozen different types/sizes, go to McMaster website and search "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts". The first few sections are not the hurricane nuts... scroll down this long page until you see the actual "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts for Hardwood" section for the hurricane nuts.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

diy.phil said:


> ^I use those hurricane nuts from Parts Express, with some glue on the base/post and it sits in there solid (use a scrap board and screw to pull it in, to set first, don't hammer it in lol). They have maybe 3 types there on Parts Express.
> 
> If you want a dozen different types/sizes, go to McMaster website and search "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts". The first few sections are not the hurricane nuts... scroll down this long page until you see the actual "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts for Hardwood" section for the hurricane nuts.


Yup, good stuff. Installed correctly, there should be no need for glue; however, I always apply a dab of All-Purpose Goop to the post-flange just in case.


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

I’ve had one t-nut come loose so I now use slab nuts with holes. We’ve used almost a thousand of them and never a problem.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

diy.phil said:


> ^I use those hurricane nuts from Parts Express, with some glue on the base/post and it sits in there solid (use a scrap board and screw to pull it in, to set first, don't hammer it in lol). They have maybe 3 types there on Parts Express.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want a dozen different types/sizes, go to McMaster website and search "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts". The first few sections are not the hurricane nuts... scroll down this long page until you see the actual "Ultra-Split-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts for Hardwood" section for the hurricane nuts.


I use Loctite cyanoacrylate glue on them, just gotta get them in pretty quickly. They won't come out.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Ohhhhh, nnnoooooooooooo
> 
> 
> Lol


Just know I was thinking of you when I made that postBut really I've never had a problem with coarse thread drywall screws even in downfire boxes. Use the same ones I use to put boxes together.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Just know I was thinking of you when I made that postBut really I've never had a problem with coarse thread drywall screws even in downfire boxes. Use the same ones I use to put boxes together.


It just occurred to me that in the recent drywall screw pro/con discussions I've read, I don't recall there having been a distinction made between single and double baffle. For example, whenever I've used drywall screws to mount a driver, it has always been in single-thickness 3/4" MDF baffle (which usually worked just fine, particularly when I've not had to remove those screws for any reason ...which would often require rotating the driver to drill fresh screw holes). However, it seems to me that 1.5" drywall screws in a 1.5" baffle would work at least twice as well as .75" drywall screws in a .75" baffle.


----------



## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

I've always just mounted my subs with a decent hex-head wood screw: 
https://www.parts-express.com/m5-x-30mm-cap-head-wood-screws-black-100-pcs--081-312


However, I will submit that this is a far superior system (for less than $4): 
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-cast-frame-10-32-speaker-mounting-kit--260-776


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

jimmydee said:


> I've always just mounted my subs with a decent hex-head wood screw:
> https://www.parts-express.com/m5-x-30mm-cap-head-wood-screws-black-100-pcs--081-312
> 
> 
> ...


That's what I use ^^^ Nothing less.  Not necessarily that exact kit, but t-nuts/insert nuts/hurricane nuts and allen head screws. I like the look of allen heads, too, vs phillips.

*Edit: This is what boggles my mind about using drywall screws or wood screws in mdf or even 3/4" plywood... For $4 you can have, like you said, "a far superior system".*


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Grinder said:


> However, it seems to me that 1.5" drywall screws in a 1.5" baffle would work at least twice as well as .75" drywall screws in a .75" baffle.


Unless they break from the extra torque necessary for that much mdf.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ckirocz28 said:


> Unless they break from the extra torque necessary for that much mdf.


I guess you missed the part where I mention drilling pilot holes.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Grinder said:


> I guess you missed the part where I mention drilling pilot holes.


I didn't miss it, still requires a lot more torque than they were designed for. I use them too, that's how I know. I've snapped off a few in my time.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ckirocz28 said:


> I didn't miss it, still requires a lot more torque than they were designed for. I use them too, that's how I know. I've snapped off a few in my time.


FFS, dude... You're either arguing for argument's sake, or you have no idea what the **** you're talking about. It is simply a matter of drilling proper pilot holes.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Grinder said:


> FFS, dude... You're either arguing for argument's sake, or you have no idea what the **** you're talking about. It is simply a matter of drilling proper pilot holes.


I'm not arguing. Drywall screws are made for.... drywall. MDF, even with proper pilot holes, can sometimes create a lot of friction and require a lot of torque, maybe it's bad MDF or bad screws. I'm not saying you're wrong because, like I said, I use them too, still use them. Chill out dude. Hell, I even use sheet metal screws sometimes. Whatever works.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ckirocz28 said:


> I'm not arguing. Drywall screws are made for.... drywall. MDF, even with proper pilot holes, can sometimes create a lot of friction and require a lot of torque, maybe it's bad MDF or bad screws. I'm not saying you're wrong because, like I said, I use them too, still use them. Chill out dude. Hell, I even use sheet metal screws sometimes. Whatever works.


Fair enough. I get that. I'm no fan of drywall screws, and haven't used them for mounting drivers in years. I use hurricane nuts for subs and woofers, and use SS sheet metal screws (or the like) for everything else. As you say, whatever works.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Grinder said:


> Fair enough. I get that. I'm no fan of drywall screws, and haven't used them for mounting drivers in years. I use hurricane nuts for subs and woofers, and use SS sheet metal screws (or the like) for everything else. As you say, whatever works.


Yeah, I'm switching to hurricane nuts and stainless allen head bolts from now on. It just feels right and proper.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ckirocz28 said:


> Yeah, I'm switching to hurricane nuts and stainless allen head bolts from now on. It just feels right and proper.


:beerchug:


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

I rarely ever drill pilot holes for my drywall screws that mount a sub. Usually just zip them into 3/4 mdf. I do what works for me and everyone else should do what works for them.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The reason I don't like drywall screws in mdf, is that it's the worst of all the choices, imho. Sure it could work, but zip ties and double sided tape could work, too. 

Blasting a drywall screw into the edge of a material that is very prone to splitting as is, to hold a sub you just spent 100s of dollars on and need to secure, air tight, for a number of years, just doesn't make sense to me... Not to mention being able to take the sub out and put it back in, the holes will most likely be half (or not at all) as strong as the first time.

Plus, the better alternatives hardly add much cost and labor to the build, so why not?


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> The reason I don't like drywall screws in mdf, is that it's the worst of all the choices, imho. Sure it could work, but zip ties and double sided tape could work, too.
> 
> Blasting a drywall screw into the edge of a material that is very prone to splitting as is, to hold a sub you just spent 100s of dollars on and need to secure, air tight, for a number of years, just doesn't make sense to me... Not to mention being able to take the sub out and put it back in, the holes will most likely be half (or not at all) as strong as the first time.
> 
> Plus, the better alternatives hardly add much cost and labor to the build, so why not?


Duct tape is best for maximum SPL.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Duct tape is best for maximum SPL.


Lol! Air tight seal FTW!


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Duct tape increases SPL? Well by golly I'm securing my new sub with duct tape instead of drywall screws!


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

That's not DIY! That's Macgyver style!!


----------



## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

1 - Extreme SPL Subs (heavy Motors 80lbs+) - Bolts with nylon nuts + med loctite



















2 - Standard SPL Subs (motors over 50lbs to 80lbs) - These:











3 - Standard Sub under 50 lbs:


----------



## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

jimmydee said:


> However, I will submit that this is a far superior system (for less than $4):
> https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-cast-frame-10-32-speaker-mounting-kit--260-776


^This and these. I know OP mentioned not using T-nuts, but once I tried this kit, I won't settle for the inferiority of a screw that damages the wood every time it's inserted/removed (including the first time ).


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Here is what I use for mounting my 24” HT subs, one of which weighs 130 lbs. Slab nuts with holes, #5 wood screws for holes, and Allen bolts.


----------



## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

dgage said:


> Here is what I use for mounting my 24” HT subs, one of which weighs 130 lbs. Slab nuts with holes, #5 wood screws for holes, and Allen bolts.


do you have photos of the back side of the baffle. I would use these over inserts and tnuts any day. #respect


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

AVIDEDTR said:


> do you have photos of the back size of the baffle. I would use these over inserts and tnuts any day. #respect


I’ll see what I can do but here’s an assembly video showing how they’re used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vMNYk6zyQ0


----------



## ajt976 (Feb 27, 2019)

dgage said:


> I’ll see what I can do but here’s an assembly video showing how they’re used.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vMNYk6zyQ0


That bad boy is serious...

ETA: I'll be looking into those slab nuts for sure. I had the same concerns about T-nuts spinning out during install. That and some of them pushed out the back when I was trying to thread the screws into them, not a huge deal but still a pain in the butt.


----------



## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

dgage said:


> Here is what I use for mounting my 24” HT subs, one of which weighs 130 lbs. Slab nuts with holes, #5 wood screws for holes, and Allen bolts.


I like these too. If I were installing a sub today I’d likely use either these slab nuts or hurricane nuts.


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Here they are in an actual sub, in this case dual 18s.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Chris12 said:


> I like these too. If I were installing a sub today I’d likely use either these slab nuts or hurricane nuts.


Yeah, my hurricane nuts often overhang the driver cutout a bit (which I don't mind, apart from the fact that it doesn't look quite right), whereas those slab nuts would solve that problem. I'd use them instead if I could be bothered to mess with all those pesky little mounting screws.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

T-nuts and Hexa screws FTW


----------

