# Purchasing a new amp- Alpine or Cadence?



## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

Rear speakers:
This is where I am stuck- 
For the rear speakers, would it be better to use coaxial 6.5's or a matching 6.5 component set? Are components used for rear, or should I just go with coaxials? or is this another matter of opinion like asking "whats better, blondes or redheads or brunettes?" I would like to stay with the image dynamics brand for sq, price, and comparable output to the front channels. What would be better for the rear speakers- coaxial 6.5's or a component set?

Amp: :huh2::huh2:
This is actually what made me want to post this thread- THE AMP!!!! 
At the car show yesterday, I talked for quite a while with the audio guru that does all the installs at the shop that hosted the car show, and I had a long list of amps that I had looked at, including amps from Alpine, kenwood, polk, precision power, RF, Cadence, audioque, and MB Quart. He pretty much shot them all down and said to go with either Audison, Memphis, or Hertz. However, the only one of these that are within my price range is the hertz HE4.1, but its still a little high in price, and it only puts out 70 watts x4, and the ctx65's are 100 w rms. Ive been told over and over that its better to overpower than underpower, and people run the ID's as high as 150-200w per channel, which I don't really want to do, 100-130 will probably be best i think, right? He assured me that Hertz's 70w x4 would be ample, but i am still not sure. He said that of any of the amps on my list, alpine is the only one that would be okay or acceptable in terms of stuff he would ever use, and cadence he has no experience with but he had heard good things.. So after reading and searching for hours for a good 4 channel amp to power the front and rear speakers, I'm between the Alpine MRX F65, a Cadence Q4000, a Cadence D100.4, or a Cadence Vegas. I started comparing stats and I have no idea what damping factor, SN ratio, or any of this actually means, so I really have no way to compare these. What would you all go with between these 4? Any input on experience with these amps would be great. 

Background: 
I listen to a wide range of music,alice in chains, beats antique, black sabbath, citizen cope, coal chamber, cream, deftones, faith no more, fear factory, five finger death punch, godsmack, gorillaz, jerry cantrell, joe satriani, korn, lamb of god, meshuggah, mushroomhead, ozzy, opeth, pantera, a perfect circle, powerman 5000, primus, pucifer, rammstein, red hot chili peppers, rob zombie, static x, stone temple pilots, system of a down, tool, white zombie, to name a few:rockon:
I am doing a complete overhaul of the stock system in my 2005 Saturn Ion Redline series. I have a LITTLE bit of an idea of what I am doing , but I AM fairly new to this. I did do an install on my old vehicle years ago, but I didnt really know what i was doing then, and heres what I have lined up so far: 

Deck:
I ruled out double din head units because I am on a student budget- I would love a double din with navigation and everything, but just not enough green! So single din for now- I read hundreds of threads, everything from naga to Mckintosh, old alpines, but i wanted something with good/ decent SQ AND modern features like iPhone connectivity, etc. It was between a Clarion CZ702, a Alpine CDE-HD138, a Sony DSX-S310BTX, or a Kenwood KDC-X996. I chose the Clarion because it has digital time alignment, 5v pre-outs, built in bluetooth, pandora, the works. It was a real tossup between the 702 and the 138, the only con for both was there was no HD radio on the 702, and the 138 had no digital time alignment. I went with the 702 because I am on a budget, and from my understanding, Alpine is going to be putting out new decks in may that will allow cloud sharing of thousands of presets and eq settings, and a mind boggling array of other things, so I will upgrade to that then, but for now just the clarion, $159 shipped. 

Front speakers:
There are component 6.5" stock speakers, and I decided to stay with components. I was shopping around for weeks, reading forum posts and calling local shops, and I was ping-ponging between Phoenix Gold components, Morel Maximos, Hertz, Polk MM, and Image dynamics. I went to a car show yesterday and there was some incredible work there, and so I started to look at 3 way systems, but they were too pricy (hertz=$300-$500 a set), Hertz and morel seemed to be a standard, but they were simply out of my price range, so I finally landed on the Image Dynamics CTX65cs set for $125 shipped.

To recap: 

Should I go with coaxials or component 6.5's for rear speakers? 

AND, which amp should I use to power 2 pairs of image dynamics 6.5's- cadence q4000, Cadence D100.4, Cadence Vegas, or Alpine MRX-F65. All of these are within my price range, just not sure which one will make the CTX's sound the best. Thanks for reading and helping!


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

D100.4 Specs:
Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier

Specifications
• 4 Ohm RMS Power: 100W x 4
• 2 Ohm RMS Power: 150W x 4
• 4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 300W x 2
• PEAK Power: 1200W
• Minimum THD: <0.01%
• Frequency Response: 10Hz - 65 kHz
• S/N Ratio: >100dB
• Damping Factor: >600 @ 100Hz
• Channel Separation: >65dB
• Dimensions (L x W x H): 12.4" x 8.6" x 2.4"

Features 
• High Speed MOSFET Power Supply 
• BiPolar Japanese Sanken Output Transistors 
• 16V Capable Power Supply 
• Copper Rail PCB Architecture 
• 24dB Crossover Circuitry 
• Adjsutable Subsonic Filter via HP Crossover 
• Band Pass Capable 
• Adjustable 12dB Bass Boost @ 45Hz 

Control Panel Features
• Remote Bass Control via RJ11 Jack (Remote Not Included)
• Input Mode: 2 or 4 Channel

Channels 1-2
• Gan 9V to 0.2V
• Clone Channel 3 & 4- FR / HP Allows you to set CH1 and CH2 to High Pass or Clone. The Clone feature aligns CH's 1 and 2 to CH's 3 and 4 thus giving you uniform sound
• High Pass Frequencies: 10Hz - 300Hz or 150Hz - 4.5 kHz (with a 15x frequency multiplier switch activated)
Channels 3-4
• Gain: 9V - 0.2V
• LP/BP - FR/HP Control
• High Pass Frequency Control: 15Hz - 500Hz
• Bass Boost: 0dB - 12dB

• Low Pass Frequencies: 45Hz - 450Hz or 450Hz to 4.5kHz (w/ 10x frequency multiplier switch activated
• Accepts 4 Gauge Power & Ground Wire // 10 Gauge Speaker Wire
-----------------------------------------
Vegas Specs:
Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier

Specifications:
• 4 Ohm RMS Power: 135 Watts x 4
• 2 Ohm RMS Power: 225 Watts x 4
• 4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 450 Watts x 2
• Minimum THD: <0.01%
• Frequency Response: 10Hz – 40 kHz
• S/N Ratio: >100dB
• Damping Factor: >220 @ 100Hz
• Channel Separation: >65dB
• Dimensions (L x W x H): 24” x 7.25” x 2.25”

Features:
• High Speed MOSFET Power Supply
• Studio-Grade Bipolar Output Stage Transistors
• Fully Adjustable 12dB / Octave Crossovers
• Low Pass: 40Hz – 150Hz
• High Pass: 50Hz – 500Hz
• 18dB Bass EQ Boost Control
• 3-Channel Mixed Mono Capable
• Mute and Delay Soft Start System
• Full IC-Controlled Protection Circuitry
• Fully Adjustable Subsonic Filter
• Dashboard Bass Remote Control Included
• 8 Volt Pre-Amp Circuitry
• RCA Pre-Amp Line Output
• Input Mode Selector Switch
--------------------------------
Q4000 Specs:
Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier

Specifications:
• 4 Ohm RMS Power: 125 Watts x 4
• 2 Ohm RMS Power: 190 Watts x 4
• 4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 380 Watts x 2
• Frequency Response: 10Hz – 40 kHz
• Minimum THD: <0.1%
• S/N Ratio: >97dB
• Damping Factor: >150 @ 100Hz
• Channel Separation: >50dB
• Input Voltage: 200mV – 8V
• Dimensions: 16.9” x 7.9” x 2.4”


Features:
• High Speed MosFET Power Supply
• BiPolar Professional Audio Grade Output Transistors
• 16V Capable Power Supplies
• Copper Rail PCB Architecture
• 12dB Crossover Circuitry
• Bass EQ
• Crossover Modes: Low Pass / Band Pass, Full Range, High Pass
• Input Modes: 2Ch, 4Ch
• Low Pass Frequency: 50Hz - 500Hz (Ch3 & 4)
• High Pass Frequency: 50Hz - 500Hz (Ch1 & 2), 50Hz - 150Hz (Ch3 & 4)
• Bass EQ: 0dB - +12dB (Ch3&4)
• High Level Inputs
• Line Level Inputs
• Smart Turn On: Music Sense / DC Sense (High Level Inputs)
• Power / Diagnostics LEDs
• Accepts 4 Gauge Power & Ground Wire // 14 Gauge Speaker Wire
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MRX F65 Specs:

Features and Specification

CEA-2006 Power Rating: 110W RMS x 4 (4-ohm, 14.4V at <1% THD+N)

Max Power Output Ratings

Max Power: 1200W

RMS Power Ratings

Per channel into 4 Ohms: 110W RMS x 4 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)
Per channel into 2 Ohms: 160W RMS x 4 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)
Bridged 4 Ohms: 320W RMS x 2 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)

Sound Tuning

Crossover Frequency (HPF): 50 - 400 Hz, -12dB/oct.
Crossover Frequency (LPF): 50 - 400 Hz, -12dB/oct.
EQ (Equalizer): 0 to +12dB (CH3/4, fc=50Hz)

Dimensions

Foot Print (WxHxD) mm: 270 x 58 x 230 mm
Foot Print (WxHxD) in: 10-5/8'' x 2-1/4'' x 9''
Heat Sink (WxHxD) mm: 210 x 58 x 230 mm
Heat Sink (WxHxD) in: 8-1/4'' x 2-1/4'' x 9''

General

Power Requirements: 14.4 V.DC (11-16V allowable)
Input Sensitivity (RCA Input): 0.2 - 4.0 V
Input Sensitivity (Speaker Level Input): 0.5 - 10 V
Input Impedance: >10k ohms
Frequency Response (+0, -3dB: 1W into 4 Ohms) for CH-1/2/3/4: 5 - 45k Hz
THD+N (10W into 4 Ohms) for CH-1/2/3/4: Ɔ.02 %
THD+N (100W into 4 Ohms) for CH-1/2/3/4: Ɔ.07 %
Damping Factor for CH-1/2/3/4: >500
Signal to Noise (Rated Power into 4 Ohms) for CH-1/2/3/4: 106 dB
Weight: 2.7 kg

FEATURES

Install

Terminal Layout: Two-Sided
Screw Mount / Wire Cover: Integrated Wire and Mounting Screw Terminals

General

Amplifier Type: Class-D (Digital)
Channel Design: 4/3/2 Channel
Power Supply Design: DC-DC PWM Power Supply
Power Supply: MOSFET
Final Outputs: Direct FET
Crossover: Variable Low Pass & Hiigh Pass Filter
Gain Control: Continuously Adjustable Gain Control
Bass EQ: Bass EQ Function
Thermal Control: Multi-stage Power Limiting
Low-impedance Possibility: Low-impedance Possibility
Current Protection: Over-Current, Over-Voltage and Thermal Protection
Board Circuitry: S.T.A.R. Circuit
Board Design: 6-layer Glass Epoxy PC Board
Speaker-Level Inputs: 4-channel Speaker Level Inputs
Power Indicator: Top Mounted Blue LED Power Indicator


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

It seems to me that you want to spend your money in the wrong places and in some ways on the wrong things. Here is where I would spend my money,

Good components, buy good quality components now and don't waste money on rear speakers.

Good head unit, you are making sacrifices on what you want just so you can buy an extra amp and rear speakers that you don't need. Buy a good quality double din with GPS head unit if that is what you want.

Good multi channel amp or a pair of matching amps, buy a good amp that will make you happy for a few years. I promise you that it will eventually bother you that your amps don't all match.

You keep listing all new equipment that you are paying full retail prices for, why do you want everything new. For the same amount of money you can buy great per-owned equipment here for 1/4 of what it would cost new. Many of the members here sell equipment as they upgrade, I would consider putting my money there and buy quality equipment that maybe you can sell someday when you upgrade. 

Finally look at places like parts express and Madisonsound for speakers, they are much for reasonably priced and many times have a better product. Plan out your whole system before you buy everything, and post in the system design section and get feedback. I don't want you to take this as negative feedback, just want to see your money go where it will make you happy.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

I haven't heard anything bad about the image dynamics components, and after hearing them yesterday, I am confident in them. I would like to get some hertz 3 way components for the fronts, but i have to be realistic about money. I dont really think I'm making sacrifices, I'm still very excited about the source unit and components that are on their way- more than anything, I just don't know what to look for in an amp, like the do's and don'ts- im a noob to this- 
I'll check out madisonsound and parts express right now, thanks for the feedback! 
what would you recommend between the amps I listed?


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

parts express = lanzar, boss, pyle, dual.....


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## pyfocal (Aug 12, 2007)

What is your budget for the amp? There are better amps out there for the money.If I had to go with those I would take the Vegas.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

preferably no more than $250. I also found a hertz HE4.1 for $250+ shipping, but like i said its only 70w rms per channel, wouldn't that be under-powering the ctx's since they're 100 watts rms? the dude i was talking to said it would be fine because its hertz, but that doesn't really mean anything to me... what other amps would you go for?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

seankurz said:


> parts express = lanzar, boss, pyle, dual.....


Wrong section of Parts Express, stay out of the car audio section. 

Parts Express = Dayton, TC, Tang Band and many other great speakers.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

I have a boat load of mtx thunder amps if your interested. Small size, gobs of power and reliable. If your interested just tell me how many channels you need....
These are the original red and black amps


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

Navy Chief said:


> Wrong section of Parts Express, stay out of the car audio section.
> 
> Parts Express = Dayton, TC, Tang Band and many other great speakers.


could you send me a link?


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## pyfocal (Aug 12, 2007)

I would look at these in your price range.I have owned both and they were great IMO.If you could afford the next larger Soundstream 4.760 you would have plenty of power and great clean output but either one of the 2 I linked would work great just a little less power.The Rockford is underated-it would probably put out closer to 100 watts a channel at 4 ohms.



http://www.amazon.com/REF4-400-Soundstream-Channel-Reference-Amplifier/dp/B00481XUCC/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1360542675&sr=1-3&keywords=ref+4.400






Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate Punch P500-4 500-Watt Multi Channel Amplifier: Automotive


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

the soundstream and/or rockford are going to produce cleaner power than the alpine or cadence? 

Another question, probably a novice question, but how do you determine if an amp is going to provide good clean power? THD?


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> Wrong section of Parts Express, stay out of the car audio section.
> 
> Parts Express = Dayton, TC, Tang Band and many other great speakers.


Didn't you already buy the ID speakers?
The ID's you listed are great speaker set I used them in my jeep for a while. Especially if you already heard them and know you like them. I would just stick with the ID's

As mentioned above, skip the rears for now and just stick with front speakers. Are you using a subwoofer?


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## pyfocal (Aug 12, 2007)

I believe the ones I linked are better and for me they have been totally reliable for almost 3 years now.Here is a link to a test on the Soundstream that has bench test results also.

http://www.soundstream.com/Media/images/PA_REF.PDF


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

jel847 said:


> Didn't you already buy the ID speakers?
> The ID's you listed are great speaker set I used them in my jeep for a while. Especially if you already heard them and know you like them. I would just stick with the ID's
> 
> As mentioned above, skip the rears for now and just stick with front speakers. Are you using a subwoofer?


Yes, I already purchased the ID's, and I'm going to power it with a 4ch amp, so I wanted to know whether to do coaxial or component ID's in the back.

Why do you say skip the rears for now, shouldnt I get everything together first?

Yes, I will be running an old rockford PL3-210 enclosure off of a power acoustik plasma sphere ts1440-2 amp (I KNOW, TERRIBLE, but its all i have for now- better than nothing) until i can upgrade to something nicer, hopefully very soon.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

pyfocal said:


> I believe the ones I linked are better and for me they have been totally reliable for almost 3 years now.Here is a link to a test on the Soundstream that has bench test results also.
> 
> http://www.soundstream.com/Media/images/PA_REF.PDF


113 x 4 @ 4 Ω, not bad! and how is the sound? what were you powering with it?


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

What's your budget for the amp?
Just get a set of coaxials for the rear of you are set on getting rear speakers


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

seankurz said:


> 113 x 4 @ 4 Ω, not bad! and how is the sound? what were you powering with it?


just saw your signature... nice


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

jel847 said:


> What's your budget for the amp?
> Just get a set of coaxials for the rear of you are set on getting rear speakers


preferable no more than 250, but i did see a couple used hertz amps that are around 300...


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

For 300$ consider a pair of these:
WoofersEtc.com - ASA400.4x - PowerBass 4 Ch. 800 Watt Auto Sound Series Amplifier

Bridge one for your components, two channels of the second amp for your rears and bridge the other two for your subs.
Then your done with it and have all the power you need...
But like mentioned before I would consider buying used, you get way more bang for your buck...


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

so this is an overall no to Cadence amps then?


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Not at all.. I would consider the xah125.4 as a great option


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## pyfocal (Aug 12, 2007)

First I was running my tweeters and midranges with it in 4 channel mode(Scan Speak 3004's and CDT ES-04'S).It was very clean sound and plenty of power.I liked it enough that I bought a REF 4.920 and ran it on my tweeters and midranges and bridged the 4.760 on my midbass(Peerless SLS 6.5'S) it has way more than enough power for these when bridged.You can also use the Hawkins circuit to run a bandpass so you can run 2 way active with these amps.They are very versatile.They are big though,especially the 4.920 but that was no problem for my install.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

jel847 said:


> Not at all.. I would consider the xah125.4 as a great option


how about the ones I posted? 
Q4000 - Cadence Sound Store
D100.4 - Cadence Sound Store
Vegas - Cadence Sound Store


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Aren't they out of your price range?


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

pyfocal said:


> First I was running my tweeters and midranges with it in 4 channel mode(Scan Speak 3004's and CDT ES-04'S).It was very clean sound and plenty of power.I liked it enough that I bought a REF 4.920 and ran it on my tweeters and midranges and bridged the 4.760 on my midbass(Peerless SLS 6.5'S) it has way more than enough power for these when bridged.You can also use the Hawkins circuit to run a bandpass so you can run 2 way active with these amps.They are very versatile.They are big though,especially the 4.920 but that was no problem for my install.


this is opening a whole other can of worms, but I am definitely interested in running active on the front components, and i have a BASIC understanding of what that is- you dont use the crossovers supplied with a component set and instead run the tweeters and woofers on separate channels through an amp and use the crossover settings on either your head unit and/ or amp, like in these pics, right?


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

jel847 said:


> Aren't they out of your price range?


no, Vegas for $160 used, d100.4 for $268 (new but still affordable), and q4000 $179 new


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

I'm probably going to go with the alpine...


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

You should read this before you buy your amps/rear speakers.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/81191-rear-fill-speakers.html

May help you save some money.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

RandyJ75 said:


> You should read this before you buy your amps/rear speakers.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/81191-rear-fill-speakers.html
> 
> May help you save some money.


That's a lot of new information to digest! I already purchased the ctx coaxials :/ I'll just resell them i guess! Now I'm going to go back and read this another 3 or 4 times so it sinks in ha- Thanks for finding this for me, I really appreciate the guidance!


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

almost everyone has said to invest into a good quality component set- what would you recommend? I picked up a ctx 2way component set, everyone seems to love them and I thought they sounded awesome active...

Also, if I were to do a 3 way active setup, I would need a 6 channel amp, or at least 6 separate channels, correct? 

thanks again everyone, I really appreciate it!!


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Alpine MRX/MRP are excellent budget amplifiers.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

My head unit's manual only had diagrams for normal mode, 2 way mode, and 3 way mode, which I am attaching photos of. My question is how specifically do I run it the way I have it shown in the other picture?? With the complexity of systems today, I'm sure this is doable but I haven't found anything on how to so far, its been almost a day and a half of searching...

I will be running a clarion cz702 head unit, an image dynamics CXT component set on an alpine MRX-F65, a matching CTX coaxial set off of an alpine MRP-F300, and a RF 210 sub off of a power acoustic amp (going to upgrafde to RE sub/amp in trunk)

How would I run this all out of the HU, specifically? do I need external hardware, or...? 

I want to use the TA on the HU for the comps, but also keep the coax speakers and sub..
would the setup i mentioned be okay or is there a better way to achieve what i want to do?
HU rear rca outs>>>alpine MRX-F65>>>tweeters
HU front rca outs>>>alpine MRX-F65>>>mids
HU sub rca outs>>>fullrange signal>>>alpine MRP-F200>>>F300 rca outs>>>sub amp xover to filter out all but the lows.

Is this how I would set this up?


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## jriggs (Jun 14, 2011)

seankurz said:


> My head unit's manual only had diagrams for normal mode, 2 way mode, and 3 way mode, which I am attaching photos of. My question is how specifically do I run it the way I have it shown in the other picture?? With the complexity of systems today, I'm sure this is doable but I haven't found anything on how to so far, its been almost a day and a half of searching...
> 
> I will be running a clarion cz702 head unit, an image dynamics CXT component set on an alpine MRX-F65, a matching CTX coaxial set off of an alpine MRP-F300, and a RF 210 sub off of a power acoustic amp (going to upgrafde to RE sub/amp in trunk)
> 
> ...


Nope, that's not going to work. With out an external processor that gives you 8 channels to work with (MS-8, Bit-One, DSP8, H800, etc) or an 8 channel HU (Pioneer P99) you can not run an active front, rear speakers and subs with that Claron. 

You can run active 2-way front + sub OR passive front + passive rear + sub.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

Turns out the existing sub amp i was going to use is in protect mode so I'm going to get a new amp and running both amps with a dist block is too much for one 4g power wire so I'm going to run individually fused power lines for each amp off the battery. If I run separate power lines to each amp and skip the dist blocks, would this be okay to mount both power lines to the battery + or is there a better option?
Xscorpion RT44G Gold-Plated 4/8 Gauge Dual Ring Terminal
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also, since im running 2 amps what would be the best way to hook up the remote turn on lead to both amps? ive read on here to crimp the remote leads from both amps onto the single blue/white from the hu, but that can easily fry the hu or amp. I also read on here that you can daisy chain them to multiple amps, then I also saw that its even better to use a relay. i already read about this topic on another thread but couldn't make heads or tails of what to do. what do you do with a relay, how do you determine what relay to get, and where in all of this do I hook up a relay? thanks ahead of time guys


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## thomasluke (Jun 10, 2011)

seankurz said:


> Turns out the existing sub amp i was going to use is in protect mode so I'm going to get a new amp and running both amps with a dist block is too much for one 4g power wire so I'm going to run individually fused power lines for each amp off the battery. If I run separate power lines to each amp and skip the dist blocks, would this be okay to mount both power lines to the battery + or is there a better option?
> Xscorpion RT44G Gold-Plated 4/8 Gauge Dual Ring Terminal
> ------------
> also, since im running 2 amps what would be the best way to hook up the remote turn on lead to both amps? ive read on here to crimp the remote leads from both amps onto the single blue/white from the hu, but that can easily fry the hu or amp. I also read on here that you can daisy chain them to multiple amps, then I also saw that its even better to use a relay. i already read about this topic on another thread but couldn't make heads or tails of what to do. what do you do with a relay, how do you determine what relay to get, and where in all of this do I hook up a relay? thanks ahead of time guys


The two runs of 4 awg will work. But if your just using two amps the remote turn on from the hu will just fine. At one point in time I had three amps and a MS-8 all from the hu.
Edit: the MS-8 turned on the amps and the hu turned on the ms-8. But none the less your fine.


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

thomasluke said:


> The two runs of 4 awg will work. But if your just using two amps the remote turn on from the hu will just fine. At one point in time I had three amps and a MS-8 all from the hu.
> Edit: the MS-8 turned on the amps and the hu turned on the ms-8. But none the less your fine.


So no relay or daisy chain, just crimping them both to the hu's wire harness will be fine. 
And the xscorpion terminal I posted will be okay to use as long as I fuse both 4g wires within a foot of the battery terminal, correct?
Is this the best way to do this? Thanks!


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## seankurz (Feb 10, 2013)

Link to thread of pics of my install: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...145742-finally-completed-build-lots-pics.html
Please leave any feedback, thanks!


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## Cparker1989 (Mar 15, 2013)

Navy chief had the right idea!parts express=quality/value. 
As far as amps look at some of the ppi pc and phantom amps.


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## nervewrecker (Oct 5, 2009)

Was browsing and decided to check out the amps posted. 
Couldnt help but notice there is a 34" cadence sub 0.o

http://www.cadencesound.com/dcx34w/


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