# 09 G8GT => Big motor + Big sound = Fun?



## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Its raining a lot up here so sorry for the pics, the car looks good though trust me.

















and the real reason for buying it, a little more than my 08 civic si but a whole lot faster even with heavie gear, and it handles great too.









Build consists of simple 2 way active front stage using complementary and in-expensive but good sounding components. I took my time researching what I wanted because I had a lot of time and no money

Front stage consists of ID Oem's basically donated to me by Hillbilly (Thx again!) and an impulse buy of Atomic's 30mm (about 1.2") silk super tweeter.

I used an mtx re-q5 as a loc converter, bass restorer (factory bass rollsoff), and also to bandpass my mids with my kenwood x4r amplifier.

So I'm using the kenwood x4r and x1r amps, with the x1r hopefully being run as a slave off of the x4r.

The subwoofer is the DIYMA r-12. Very heavy and weight is always a concern for me, but its reputation and hearing it in boostedrex's car makes me want to try it, reverse mounted if possible.

I will try and include a few lines of advice and some parts of this car are very easy to work, but a few were tricky.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Got my front stage in and included some pics.

As far as getting in the speakers everything is the same as the diy articles already on forums like g8board.com aside from my tweeters but I have a picture of that. Sorry for not being completely extensive but my battery in my camers keeps dying.

So running wire...

















Its pretty basic as you can see. Just go from the trunk run under the rear seat which simply pops loose in the front on each side and then pull out, no bolts or anything.

I also unbolted the bottom of both of the rear seatbacks which had two nuts on it to make it easier to run the wire through.

Now for the two pictures above be careful as the panels pop out normally but slide them back first and work it out as it sit under that plastic side piece by the seat. 

Now for one of tricky parts you should note, the kick panels...









Behind my finger there is a t-25 or t-20 screw behind there holding the panel in place, just like you'll find at the bottom. Its not visible at all as you can see, so you've been warned...

Now wiring in the processor from the side panel will be much easier with glovebox out of the way.

First just pop off this panel under the glovebox, very easy just pull down on the front, three clips in front and the same in the back. This is what your left with.









Now un-screw from all these spots, two spots have plastic in front that needs to be popped off the same as the little plastic tabs covering the screw on the door by the handle.

























and dont forget the three on the bottom uncovered by that plastic piece you popped off.









now...
This is the wholeleft by the glovebox









The side panel is easy too, the long piece running from the armrest to the front can be slid down and out of the way, it is attached to the side panel covering so be careful with it though.

Then the actual side piece has a tree at the front, just pop it straight out. Then on the closer side it has one more, but instead of popping it out I just pulled down and slid it out that way.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Now here some pics on how to remove the plug with all the audio harnesses on it.









Just grab the clip at the bottom like this...









and then lift up and it should start popping out, then just pull it out. Remember you will have to push it in with that handle up to line it up with the notch in the mounting area, then force it down and it will click into place. (let it make noises until its done after clicking it back in)

















Now you just use the wiring diagrams provided again on places like g8board.com to wire in whatever device your using for oem integration and your done. Heres how I wired mine.

















I put mine under the passenger seat and will include some pics of that as well. I ran my rca's, remote wire etc. for the processor through the hole for the a/c vent under the seat.

















Then all done up here...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

The trunk is just temporary for now, but heres a few pics. I just used the factory ground, but made sure to get it to bare metal.

























You guys have no idea how deep this tub is!!! Its the biggest one I've ever seen and the car doesn't even come with a spare in the higher trim.









The last one is me pissed off and attempting to diagnose a noise problem I couldn't track down...I just lowered the gain on my re-q5 until it wasn't audible anymore, what a gremlin nothing worked. Alt whine from engine is louder at times than it was over the speakers anyway.









And here's how I did my tweeters.


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## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

Nice work, I like the tweeters. Good to see an Australian car getting the attention it deserves over there  The VEs do have a lot of problems with noise... and no one has any quick-fix answers...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

A total gremlin, and a new alternator and extra battery seem like they might help, but not an option right now lol.

The rest of this car is so much more than I thought I could get however, so I am more than happy to just deal with that. Especially with all the room I have to work with in the trunk. Got this one for only a few more thousand than my civic si.

Plus I saw a police car version was developed as a replacement for the crown vic. It would be weird driving the crap out of the same car at work and then "babying" my car at the local autocross lol.

Thx for your post on your car too, it helped when I shopping for a gto


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## Maddman (Dec 20, 2008)

Nice car. Look forward to seeing more installation pics.


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

flomofo said:


>


What C class you got in there?


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

2002 c230 coupe kompressor with evolution package.

Was ordered before they even hit shores here.

Its a pain in the ass, I don't know how to take it apart and when it was newer I was told it uses fiber optics for the radio and blah blah blah.

I'm hoping since it as the basic tape deck and no cd option or changer that I can figure out how to replace the radio or keep it and run something like the re-q5 to put in some basic aftermarket speakers and amp for my girlfriend the owner.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

ugh that car should not be sold without a man-pedal.


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## abonablesnobeast415 (Feb 27, 2009)

nice setup


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Well it is but I can't afford it, and a man pedal won't make me buy an inferior car to what I want.


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## danno (Jan 25, 2009)

you can change the headunit in that c-class....i've done them before...they even make a dashkit for those!


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## tusk (Feb 20, 2008)

Another Holden brother 

Keep the pics comming!


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## sotelomichael (Dec 2, 2008)

looks good man!


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## BLD MOVS (Sep 23, 2007)

Great car! Are there paddle shifters?


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Love that car. I checked out a G8 GXP at a new car show last weekend. Sexy and powerful. Hmmmm. May be my next ride after I sell my 69 Mustang.


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## BLD MOVS (Sep 23, 2007)

rockinridgeline said:


> after I sell my 69 Mustang.


 ygpm


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Looking good. Sure am glad you didn't show a pic of those mids I sent ya. They aren't exactly minty:blush:


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Not minty but they work, this is as low budget as I can do a system for until I get my career started.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Can't decide on the last of my install...

Heres some pics of my trunk well and the possible setups with the last one being the one I'd like to get started on.

I'm going to either use a ring for the sub and two boards for the amos and glass everything else while attempting to keep the stock center hold down...If I do it this way I'm going to build a sub box on that front edge of the well and aim the sub straight up or slightly to the rear towards the lisence plate.

Or get a flat piece of mdf cut with a hole cut out for the sub, and just somehow build up the glass from underneath up to the appropriate height needed for the board... 


















The ring is about 14 or so inches in diameter...


























This side corner thing fits the best in the well if I aim it straight up or probably angled too for that matter.









And finally what I've decided on right now...

















Let me know guys, quality already reminded me towards the rear as much as possible, so hopefully anywhere in the well is better than behind the seats and maybe equivalent to putting in the corner across from the battery.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Spare Tire Sub Box? - Page 2 - Pontiac G8 Forum: G8 Forums - G8Board.com

Pics of 2 12's and an amp, basically what I might do but with 1 12" and 2 amps...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Trying to now pull out the bottom piece of the fiberglass box I'm working on but its stuck good. 

The pam didnt work too good here, the sides are full of tar now from trying to use a chisel to loosen up the sides, anybody have some suggestions?

I'm starting to think I might have to cut it in half and take it out that way.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

I wonder if the flour PAM would work better then regular PAM being as it has flour in it and gives something solid between the fiberglass and the trunk bottom. 

You could fiberglass on some handles real quick  Cut them of later haha!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

might have to try that actually...


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## gsr22 (Jul 30, 2007)

interested to see how this turns out good work so far!


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

flomofo said:


> Trying to now pull out the bottom piece of the fiberglass box I'm working on but its stuck good.
> 
> The pam didnt work too good here, the sides are full of tar now from trying to use a chisel to loosen up the sides, anybody have some suggestions?
> 
> I'm starting to think I might have to cut it in half and take it out that way.


What up!!!!

Its me from the g8board.....

Anyhow, pop a hole in it very carefully with a drill bit....Go only deep enough to get through the glass....then get a blow gun and blow compressed air underneath the glass....might need some help but ir should release....Next time use aluminum foil....makes it easier....


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## talibmohamid (Dec 5, 2008)

THAT IS SOME GRADE A WORK U GOT GOIN ON MAN......


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

I made some handles with a layer of kyntex, probably wont hold but worth a try.

And I have a compressor back home so I might try that tommorow but where should i drill a hole?

I was thinking right in the middle but that hold down piece is there, wondering if it will get in the way...


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## stuckinok (Jul 22, 2008)

Beautiful car and I hope that system turns out well


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Nice ride and install, also. Man pedal=clutch? 361 horsepower in this model?


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Not enough horsepower, just tune with the dozen baffle intake and 5 muffler exhaust with 90 degree bend cats brings out 20 to 30 horsepower I think since the car is tuned to 87 octane.

Plenty of potential for big power from the motor.

Tugged as hard as I could on the handle I made in the middle towards the back of the tub and nothing....

I'm not sure if drilling a hole now for compressed air will work for this one, going to get my brother to help me tug on it, and if almost 500 pounds of dudes can't get it to even budge I'm gonna get pissed...

I'll add more pics if I get to fleecing which I'll take suggestions for as well, since I can't build up on the sides to avoid fitment issues and also trying to fleece to all the ridges on the side as well....


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## radioflyer97 (Mar 30, 2009)

Good stuff. Clean look.


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## tusk (Feb 20, 2008)

Try pulling the tape away from the body and pulling it with the mold/tub. Try to use the tape as the barrier...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Thought about pulling the tape down, but it will only come down to the edge and the tub doesnt flex after that at all.

Still debating if I want to drill a hole in it, just dont see the compressed air thing working, but its worth a try I guess!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

used a big 2x4 to make a lever with my dad and the whole car getting picked up.

So I might have to cut the box into little pieces just to get it out...damn.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

wow, it took three of us using some hefty pry bars and a long 2x4 bar to get it out.

I also have to deal with all the tar now since the rammat got messed up in removing the tub...

What do you guys recommend? I was thinking of using aluminum tape over the whole thing to get rid of the annoying goo that gets all over when working on the car...


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

flomofo said:


> wow, it took three of us using some hefty pry bars and a long 2x4 bar to get it out.
> 
> I also have to deal with all the tar now since the rammat got messed up in removing the tub...
> 
> What do you guys recommend? I was thinking of using aluminum tape over the whole thing to get rid of the annoying goo that gets all over when working on the car...


You got so lucky.......

I would highly suggest using aluminum foil on top of the tape next time....Did you manage to not damage the fiberglass?

For the Goo??????? I would probably put a layer of foam on top of the Rammatt. I am using 1/8in closed cell foam.....Or you can do Rammatt over the damaged areas.....

Remember the aluminum foil and maybe some mold release......I will be doing an enclosure for a couple G8board members soon...Be on the look out for them


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

no the fiberglass was fine but that pam just didnt make it easy and the tap held on pretty good to the tub.

I'm going to just use aluminum backed tape over the entire area since I wanted to cover all the edges anyway, the tape is the same as putting more rammat aluminum backing over it without the added thickness of the butyl/tar underneath to throw off my wonderfully formed and cooperative tub  

Next time I'll definately use foil though....

I have some second skin foam left too so I might use that too.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

Nice choice in a car, dude. As for your tub, glad you got it out. When my brother and I did my first fiberglass tub in my Mustang back in 1994, we put a heavy coat of floor wax on all of the metal. This was before we knew about the masking tape and/or aluminum foil thing. After the 'glass cured, it was difficult to get out because it sealed so well to the smooth metal of the tire well. Ended up smacking it quite a few times in the center of the tub floor with a hammer and finally the glass started to let go. The underside of that tub was sure smooth though!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Bottom tub is out and sides were trimmed using a jigsaw with my dads help, then a small rotary to remove the handles, not too worried about making the inside smooth or beautiful though.

Getting some resin from taps plastics to do the top side now. 

Its going to be shallow so I have to prep the bottom as much as possible, I'm just going to look for taps version of kitty hair to seal off leaks I have and thats it, sound good? I have rammat under the box and the box sits right on top of it, so not sure I'll need on it here.

After sealing the bottom, I'm going to mount the ring and amp boards and staple the cloth to it, then resin the cloth....I'm not missing something right?

Pretty big area...

















And small and big and annoying bends/curves everywhere!


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

All those ribs and dips and curves adds strength to it, without having to go super thick on the fiberglass (which in my opinion is a waste of time and material in most tirewell applications).


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

ya I did 3 or 4 layers which i think is still too much...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Time to make a decision boys....

Let me know which one, low and inverted sub, or regular cone up, all I might be able to do either way is a slight angle towards the back of the car so should I just aim it straight up?


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## G8H8 (Apr 10, 2009)

Subscribed.........another grrrr8.net member


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Change of plans, it didnt look right and space was just a little too tight, so I'm doing the sub amp down in here with the sub and the other amp up top in the corner of the trunk...stealth enough and easier to tune that way.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Decided to try my first milkshake, and stop the leaks I had on the bottom in case I couldn't reach later. It was actually a little dicey in some spots already.


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## Leno (Jan 4, 2009)

nice orange tree !!!!!!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Lookin like something now...


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Update


















I'm thinking of putting both of my amps down here like this...but I was going to keep one up top in the corner across from the battery since its basically where I'll be doing all my tuning...


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

impressive progress! Thumbs up from another aussie!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Need some help if you guys are watching. Going to post some more pics up but need to know if I can just drill a couple holes to run wire from amp straight to subwoofer.

I was going to just drill a couple holes and plug them up with hot glue in case it doesn't hold and I need to try something else.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Done for now, now I have to start swapping components as time and money allows!!!


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

If you guys can give me some ideas for cleaning up my wiring let me know!

Edit:
Moving the re-q5 to thre trunk didn't help lol.



Got no alternator whine as far as I knew today using a cheap loc, but am still having trouble with the re-q5 but we'll see I guess.


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

flomofo said:


> Need some help if you guys are watching. Going to post some more pics up but need to know if I can just drill a couple holes to run wire from amp straight to subwoofer.
> 
> I was going to just drill a couple holes and plug them up with hot glue in case it doesn't hold and I need to try something else.


If you drill holes, just use some silicone caulk. I usually caulk from the inside then pull the wire out slightly to get the caulk into the hole, then hit it again on the outside. Obviously you don't want the hole to be much bigger than the wire being used. Also, when using this method I like to use twisted pair wire with a round jacket. It fits better in the hole. 

If you want to go above and beyond, you could make a couple binding posts out of machine screws and bolts. I used 1/4-20 screws for my posts. This method allows you to make solid, well sealed connections without caulk. Either way, I'm sure you'll be fine. Let me know if you want to see pictures to describe what I'm talking about here.


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