# Home Depot Peel n Seal..



## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

$16 for a 33.5' long x 6" wide roll is a helluva deal, more than enough to cover both door skin and panel..

It'd be a sinful to install JL C5's and not treat the door..


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## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

Lol go for it. Be ready to clean black tar up for weeks.


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## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

Peal and seal has zero dampening potential


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

DDfusion said:


> Peal and seal has zero dampening potential


You say tar based material has zero dampening potential..

okay


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## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

Go for it bud.


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## 1fishman (Dec 22, 2012)

It melts at about 30 lower temp than road kill... It can become a big mess if you have a dark color car in hot temperature areas.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

DDfusion said:


> Go for it bud.


thank you for your nod of approval..


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

1fishman said:


> It melts at about 30 lower temp than road kill... It can become a big mess if you have a dark color car in hot temperature areas.


I live in NW Oregon, hot temps are kinda rare on this side of town..


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

gstokes said:


> I live in NW Oregon, hot temps are kinda rare on this side of town..



I've lived in Oregon most my life and know it gets over 100 almost every summer. I have some audio technix 80 mil I'll let loose for cheap just so you don't use that junk


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

Oh, had no idea you were so close


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> You say tar based material has zero dampening potential..
> 
> okay


before i read the rest of this thread, you need to do some research before you give smug answers to opinions (in some cases facts) that oppose yours. this has actually been tested before here on this site. like legit test, not basic subjective reviews. this stuff is literally not even worth the time to install it if you got it for free. does literally nothing. this is from the test, and from my own experience. brb while i get the pics of the test results

here you go.. literally unnoticeable difference

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1944963-post250.html




now this is what a good deadener should look like on the test

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1943596-post239.html


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> before i read the rest of this thread, you need to do some research before you give smug answers to opinions (in some cases facts) that oppose yours. this has actually been tested before here on this site. like legit test, not basic subjective reviews. this stuff is literally not even worth the time to install it if you got it for free. does literally nothing. this is from the test, and from my own experience. brb while i get the pics of the test results
> 
> here you go.. literally unnoticeable difference
> 
> ...


Save your pics man, there's enough vids on youtube that say otherwise..


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

nineball76 said:


> I've lived in Oregon most my life and know it gets over 100 almost every summer. I have some audio technix 80 mil I'll let loose for cheap just so you don't use that junk


Actually live in Beaverton but i personally have never seen it over 80 degrees in Portland, lived here just over 7 years..


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

Correction: The stuff i got is called U-seal and is 'supposedly' better than peel and seal..


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

20 days straight of 90+ this summer.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

nineball76 said:


> 20 days straight of 90+ this summer.


I remember now, I was inside enjoying the A/C


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> Save your pics man, there's enough vids on youtube that say otherwise..


*facepalm*

i truly feel sorry for you

i had 4, yes 4 layers of this stuff on my doors in my old car. it only made a very very slight difference due to weight, and somewhat decoupling the door skin from the panel


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Yeah, Peel-N-Seal is probably not nearly as effective as most Car Audio geared deadeners. I mean testing showed that it really didn't do much at the resonance frequency, and not all that much on higher frequencies, though it did make a measurable difference. 

I've not used Peal-N-Seal, but I've used Quick Roof (similarly priced). It did make an audible difference, but based on testing, I'm betting compared to something like SDS tiles or Knukonctpz's Kno Knoise Kolossus, it's not worth messing with (assuming one is willing to spend the extra cash for better results with less work). 

Did the trunk of a Cutlass Ciera (and license plate) and I'll put the results this way. At the volume level that I got audible panel vibration when standing outside the car, I no longer had any audible noise. Just 3 clicks up in volume and BAM, the audible vibration was back. (luckily, I wasn't and am not much of a bass head nor one to play my system to level to be heard even 100' away. Most powerful setup I had in the car was an aftermarket HU powering Polk 3.5" in the dash and Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck with a 12" Kappa perfect off an Infinity Reference 611a (or at least that setup seemed like it was the most powerful). 

As it is now, I hear people drive by with their windows down and can clearly hear their music (and probably with factory gear at that), however, for me to hear my music from outside my car as clearly, I have to crank it to ear piercing levels inside the car. 

So yeah, from someone who doesn't really push any systems hard at all, I got marginal benefits from the Quick Roof. 

Do I regret what I had done? No. 

Would I ever use Quick Roof (or Peel-N-Seal) in another car? Highly doubtful and as of today, I haven't. 

Still, it's your car, your cash, your time.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)




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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Mmm lets see, with quality car butyl deadener you only need to use about 30% coverage and you will have better response.

A YouTube video showing peel and seal has no scientific proven test, it just shows a bunch of guys installing it and just because it looks the same they think it's the same, unfortunately it's not the same thing, I am glad you posted and asked.



*If peel and seal costs $1 per square foot, and Dynamat Xtreme $4 per square foot

Would you spend $12 on peel and seal to cover the whole door? Adding an extra 6 lbs per door

Or spend $13.50 on Dynamat, Knu Kol or SDS using only 3.3 square feet to do the whole door not only eliminating vibration and resonace rattles but also increase bass response and also being much lighter than the peel and seal?
*


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## Justin Zazzi (May 28, 2012)

There is a reason that constrained layer damper (CLD) tiles perform *vastly* better than a single layer of material without a metal backing. I could try to explain it to you, but it seems like you have made up your mind already.

Since you you want to make a horrible stinky mess that won't make your system sound any better, then go for it. Let us know how it turns out for you.


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

if only the search button would bring up endless amounts of information on this exact topic that has already been covered before!


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## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

A guy at work did it. He found out I was a audio guy and he told me about it. I cringed a bit and told him it's going to melt and trash his car. Two days later he was asking me how to get the nasty black tar out of his door jams. It was a mess.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

gstokes said:


> Save your pics man, there's enough vids on youtube that say otherwise..


As the guy who did the test in question, let me ask you this.

If 1000 youtube videos told you drinking oil could make you walk on water, would you believe it?

Those youtube videos are made by idiots who have clearly never used anything better than roofing materials. And that's exactly what they are, roofing materials NOT DAMPING PRODUCTS. The msds for peel n seal even says not to use it indoors, or it used to, haven't looked in a while.

But, if your too stubborn to look at real testing, as provided in the links by skizer, then by all means knock yourself out. Have fun with the cancerous fumes it puts out.

And know that I wouldn't install that crap in my car unless someone PAID me to, and even then, only if they paid me enough to install it, and have enough left over to buy a new car after I SCRAP THE CAR I installed it in.


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## Second Skin (Aug 5, 2010)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFnUu3mQTwU

Always insist on a high quality American made butyl rubber product with no asphalt or tar fillers for your sound deadening needs.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

Thanks for the info, i will look into CLD Tiles,,.


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## capea4 (Sep 2, 2010)

some people learn the hard way, i usually do. I KNOW how i feel about it, and most have mad it obvious how they feel, but the man wants to follow the steps to prove it to himself. Some here, are fine with the test that have been done, and agree with the findings. He doesn't, so what "we" should do, instead of beating him with "our " collective findings, is to advise him how to prove this test again himself.

I would beg you to perform any test on a spare metal panel, and not your own car.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

I'm just glad that you guys are happy now, your happiness is most important to me..


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

I ordered four 1.75 cu ft pieces of Kno Knoise Resonance Control for $30, should be enough for both doors


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> I ordered four 1.75 cu ft pieces of Kno Knoise Resonance Control for $30, should be enough for both doors


ayyy..

now you just gotta deaden strategically. dont just place it all in one spot. find the problem areas and place smaller pieces accordingly


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> ayyy..
> 
> now you just gotta deaden strategically. dont just place it all in one spot. find the problem areas and place smaller pieces accordingly


gotcha, tap on stuff and see if it pings or rattles..
I guess you want everything to have a dull non resonant persona.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> gotcha, tap on stuff and see if it pings or rattles..
> I guess you want everything to have a dull non resonant persona.


no, just doors. but if you want your doors sticky and smelly and still resonant persona (for some reason i picture lindey lohan), dont bother.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> no, just doors.


That's what i meant, everything inside the door..


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> That's what i meant, everything inside the door..


ahh. yeah. ideally you should be able to tap on random parts of the door and have there be no resonant overtone afterwards. ok so next purchase.. closed cell foam lol


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

The sad thing is a couple of companies market and box roofing materials as car dampening material underpricing the good ones and pricing it above the roof stuff.

Some of that roofing product may stay on, or not smell after a while, it doesn't always fails there for the first year.

The main issue is, it is not designed to be placed on metal and vertical areas, it's for horizontal areas, if it is designed to be outside exposed to sunlight and heat, it may hold for a few years, in extreme conditions but not forever it's just a quick fix that needs replacement and checking after a couple of years. A quality car CLD would probably last for the life of the vehicle even if the metal is dirty it sticks well, the peel seal, u seal placed over a dusty area comes right off, metal or roof area needs to be super clean in order for the peel and seal to work. 

I had to patch some roof areas of a sun room recently made of aluminum sheet metal and I was able to test the lowes product, it's not as bad as a roof product and the aluminum is thick, but I would not use it on a car.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

This project got more involved than i thought, the C5-570's will be here today but now i have to wait for UPS to deliver the CLD Tiles..

I don't know how much i will invest in the CCF because airborne noise is not a problem with the fully upholstered interior in my conversion van, it's actually very quiet when driving in the city and i do very little highway driving..


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> This project got more involved than i thought, the C5-570's will be here today but now i have to wait for UPS to deliver the CLD Tiles..
> 
> I don't know how much i will invest in the CCF because airborne noise is not a problem with the fully upholstered interior in my conversion van, it's actually very quiet when driving in the city and i do very little highway driving..


ccf doesnt have anything to do with airborne noise. it prevents panels from vibrating/resonating against each other. like the door skin against the door panel. something like ensolite peel and stick should be cheap enough


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

CLD is a vibration damping material installed directly on panels, effective at 25% to 30% coverage.

CCF, as noted above, is a vibration isolating material used between panels or even layers that are touching, effective at 100% coverage.

MLV is a sound deadening material, effectivey

Installed PROPERLY and TOGETHER, they make for an extremely effective and noticeable SQ upgrade. WELL worth the money to do it right!!


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## High_HP (Nov 7, 2015)

I used a roll of aluminum foil lined roofing seal material many years ago that I bought from a contracting supply house. Lined the floor and hatch in a Fox body Mustang. In my experience it made a huge difference and was a fraction of the cost compared to Dynamat. I did heat it up with a hair dryer before applying and it is still stuck on there solid after 15 years in southern heat...and no odor. Just my experience.


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

yeah, and today the full butyl can be found, as well as high thickness / heavy duty aluminum foil.

you can roll your own?

I don't know how well that works out but I believe a little Peal and Stick or whatever on some of the horizontal surfaces under factory carpet, doesn't hurt too much.

Getting that nice Knu stuff in place in small, fashionable squares right where the resonance is fickle, is where the good money is spent.


getting a little MLV and using it to good effect, may make a bigger difference than how much more than 30% coverage works...


and using the cheaper stuff to say, cover ABS panels that were going over the big access holes in the door, is just an odds sort of thing, chances are you get a little drip and droop after a good summer of outdoor car parking, and the subsequent man hours of labor trying to scrape off that gunk is going to have you looking at the sweet cheap price of the Home Depot, a lot more carefully in the future.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

High_HP said:


> I used a roll of aluminum foil lined roofing seal material many years ago that I bought from a contracting supply house. Lined the floor and hatch in a Fox body Mustang. In my experience it made a huge difference and was a fraction of the cost compared to Dynamat. I did heat it up with a hair dryer before applying and it is still stuck on there solid after 15 years in southern heat...and no odor. Just my experience.


Read the links on the first page. If you noticed a huge difference, it's because you put MULTIPLE layers or it was a placebo effect.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

cajunner said:


> yeah, and today the full butyl can be found, as well as high thickness / heavy duty aluminum foil.
> 
> you can roll your own?
> 
> ...


While full butyl roofing products can be found, that doesn't make it a good damping product. The composition of the butyl is the most important factor in how well it works, and there are thousands of blends. Using a full butyl roofing product is still a crap shoot. I have found less than a single handful of asphalt products that both perform well and hold up well, and none so far have held up in heat testing.


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## High_HP (Nov 7, 2015)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Read the links on the first page. If you noticed a huge difference, it's because you put MULTIPLE layers or it was a placebo effect.


Definitely NOT a placebo effect, I was/am intimately familiar with this car and have since built it into a race car...I knew every sound that car made since I would build motors and suspension systems for it. I used a single layer, and I've used Dynamat before as well. Just my experience.


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

High_HP said:


> Definitely NOT a placebo effect, I was/am intimately familiar with this car and have since built it into a race car...I knew every sound that car made since I would build motors and suspension systems for it. I used a single layer, and I've used Dynamat before as well. Just my experience.


I would say the product you used is probably different than what is being sold today for roofing materials as its 15 years ago. I believe you saw a difference but like I said there is a very very slim chance that the product is the same as what is on the market now that people are using.


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> While full butyl roofing products can be found, that doesn't make it a good damping product. The composition of the butyl is the most important factor in how well it works, and there are thousands of blends. Using a full butyl roofing product is still a crap shoot. I have found less than a single handful of asphalt products that both perform well and hold up well, and none so far have held up in heat testing.


and for your expectations, you suggest that the best be used and the rest be left on the store shelf?

I'm not sure if that equates to me wondering if you'd care to use Boss coaxes in your own car, even if nobody found out, haha...

but the cost is still prohibitive when you order the right amount of the right products, and that testing you have made available for the forum didn't change the basic facts.

I'm not one of those people who say "Install, Install, Install!!" when choosing the drivers for my own satisfaction, and I'm not one of those people who if given the choice to use no deadener or cheap deadener, choose no deadener....

and that's okay!





I'm glad you're here doing what you do, and I understand the urge to provide counter-advice to the type of purely cheap-skate commentary, found so often on car audio sites since buying more car, when audio is the goal surely seems like a counter-productive pursuit, but...

I still like to believe CLD is quite limited in it's ability, all things considered and the quietness of a vehicle is mostly mastered with a 3-stage process where MLV might be the best acronym less often utilized..


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Your dead right about mlv being more useful for road noise. If your not doing anything crazy, I recommend mlv before cld if you can only afford one. Cld is and always will be a narrow band treatment.

And I knew you were playing devils advocate.

My goal is simply to give the best options, after that, anyone can choose to follow that or not. I only get frustrated when people talk about how x roofing product works as well as any other product and people who say otherwise have agendas blah blah blah. I do try to talk people out of products that people have shown to fail over time. Not because that means it will always fail, but because the risk of failing doesn't make sense to me when there are other (including low budget) products that no one has really seen fail.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

okay, so i called U-Seal and inquired about the product, it is rubberized asphalt and not recommended for interior use..
Returned it to Home Depot..

There's some stuff called GT Mat and i have some samples coming no charge..
GTMAT Automotive Sound Deadener Dampening Dynamat/Fatmat Alternative


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## chubz71 (Jul 20, 2011)

I lined my doors with the home depot stuff a few years ago...cheap, easy to work with, and no smell. I'm in South Carolina...hot as f**k here in the summer, no melting, no dripping, nothing.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

chubz71 said:


> I lined my doors with the home depot stuff a few years ago...cheap, easy to work with, and no smell. I'm in South Carolina...hot as f**k here in the summer, no melting, no dripping, nothing.


You may be right but the guys here have already scared me way from it..
I don't want my van to smell like anything except ganja


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

gstokes said:


> okay, so i called U-Seal and inquired about the product, it is rubberized asphalt and not recommended for interior use..
> Returned it to Home Depot..
> 
> There's some stuff called GT Mat and i have some samples coming no charge..
> GTMAT Automotive Sound Deadener Dampening Dynamat/Fatmat Alternative


I tested all of there products as well, the onyx and quadro are the butyl products. Gtmat, gtmat ultra, and gtmat 110mil are all asphalt. Much better than peel n seal, but dynamat was much better. Interesting story about that one.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

chubz71 said:


> I lined my doors with the home depot stuff a few years ago...cheap, easy to work with, and no smell. I'm in South Carolina...hot as f**k here in the summer, no melting, no dripping, nothing.


Check out the links on the first page by skizer. Real objective testing of peel n seal vs a top butyl contender.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> .. Gtmat, gtmat ultra, and gtmat 110mil are all asphalt.


damnnnnn, thank you for that info..


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## 1fishman (Dec 22, 2012)

chubz71 said:


> I lined my doors with the home depot stuff a few years ago...cheap, easy to work with, and no smell. I'm in South Carolina...hot as f**k here in the summer, no melting, no dripping, nothing.


My son's old black Jeep Cherokee had it oozing out of his door panels I got all over the place. 

We tested it and found it starts to melted at 130 - 135 degrees. Direct sunlight on dark color cars surfaces can get WAY hotter than 130, and I've seen 140 temperature inside my dark grey van just from being in a parking lot on a bright hot sunny day. Light or white cars not near as hot and likely not be a problem. 

Like mentioned earlier on horizontal surfaces the rubberized asphalt at hot temps stays in place. On vertical surface above 130 degrees it can be a major mess.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> okay, so i called U-Seal and inquired about the product, it is rubberized asphalt and not recommended for interior use..
> Returned it to Home Depot..
> 
> There's some stuff called GT Mat and i have some samples coming no charge..
> GTMAT Automotive Sound Deadener Dampening Dynamat/Fatmat Alternative


Remember when 2stubborn2fail said some brands just rebrand roofing material? Well he was talking about gtmat lol 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> Remember when 2stubborn2fail said some brands just rebrand roofing material? Well he was talking about gtmat lol


Yep, asphalt based garbage..


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

or was it the gtmat that was pretty much the same as peel and seal?


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

they're both asphalt based..


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gstokes said:


> they're both asphalt based..


i know but one of them measured identical to peel and seal. just because its asphalt doesnt mean they will all perform equally as bad


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Fatmat measured the same as peel n seal.


Gtmat measured slightly better, and each thicker layer measured better than the last. The thickest one still didn't match dynamat.

The 3 asphalt gtmat products seem to be a custom ordered roofing material. It is not the same asphalt mix in peel n seal. The two butyl products are not roofing products, but don't perform as well as the top, middle, or low end contenders.


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

So as to not start a whole new thread for one simple question, and since all the deadening gurus are right here.... I'm using knu Kolossus, peel and stick ensolite, and mlv from tm soundproofing. Does the ensolight stick to the cld or the mlv?


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

Ensolite from Ram audio sticks to any clean surface no joke

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## What? (Jun 5, 2008)

I have not sold an asphalt based sound deadener for more than 18 years. I have taken cars apart after fatmat has been applied and the product was no longer bonded to the panel at all just loose under the carpet.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

nineball76 said:


> So as to not start a whole new thread for one simple question, and since all the deadening gurus are right here.... I'm using knu Kolossus, peel and stick ensolite, and mlv from tm soundproofing. Does the ensolight stick to the cld or the mlv?


Stick it to the cld, vinyl is actually very difficult to adhere things too.


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Stick it to the cld, vinyl is actually very difficult to adhere things too.



Cool beans, kinda what I thought. Thanks!


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

What? said:


> I have not sold an asphalt based sound deadener for more than 18 years. I have taken cars apart after fatmat has been applied and the product was no longer bonded to the panel at all just loose under the carpet.


The Fatmat became unbonded from the floor ?


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## captainscarlett (Mar 15, 2011)

*For all those for Peel and Seal:* Something is going to be better than nothing, hence the spawning of 1,000 YouTube videos' .... *albeit a misguided choice* 

And if 1,000 YouTube videos is your defence for using it, then the same could be said of those annoying flex videos, that simply goes to show how rubbish your car and install is, more than how good your system is :laugh:

*As for the rest of us:* My choice for the good stuff was a matter of money. In the UK *I couldn't see any real cost benefits of using cheap stuff over the genuine stuff* (Second Skin, Dynamat). So for why would I want to risk my money on unproven product like Peel and Seal 

The only other issue I was warned about, comes when you do want to do it properly and you want to get rid of the Peel and seal, as this link previously given shows!







There does seem to be a lot of companies that sell deadening of one sort or another that seem to be also stocking deadening for the automotive industry. As I said, something is going to make a difference over nothing. But how much of this stuff is unproven? From such retailers, I would say 99.9% of it. And again, I saw no cost benefits over the likes of Dynamat, so where's the incentive?

*Thirdly*, I don't see the correlation between roofing materials and the automotive industry?


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

If $5.00 worth of good CLD gives better results than $ 5.00 worth of roofing products, why even consider a roofing product? 

If 1 square foot of good CLD performs better than 5 square ft of peel and seal, where is the savings using you seal?

We are dampening a door, not trying to cover more area, like a roof. If I was covering a roof, then I get more material and coverage for the money using the roof aluminum seal material.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

If you use enough asphalt based flashing tape, it will make a positive difference. Asphalt isn't viscoelastic so you lose the most efficient damping mechanism but you will get some panel stiffening and will certainly lower the panel's resonant frequency.

The first problem, revealed by testing done by myself and others, is that it takes 6-10 times as much asphalt roofing material to approach the performance of a purpose built vibration damper. That also means 6-10 times the work and turns the value proposition on its head.

The bigger issue is the inherent instability of asphalt based products. Asphalt has a very low melting temperature, much lower than can easily be reached in vehicle sheet metal in the sun - as described above. Rubber is added to the asphalt to raise its melting point. That addition makes it possible for shady outfits to call it "rubberized compound", without mentioning asphalt and intentionally confusing the butyl/asphalt choice The rubber will deteriorate with time and temperature and the asphalts's melting point will fall with it. The most common failure points seem to be the second or third summer.

How can asphalt not fail after 15 years in a Mustang in the deep South? Once you apply the asphalt material you are in a race. Will the melting point fall into the failure range or will all of the VOCs off gas before that happens, rendering the material inert and not prone to melting? There is no way to tell. Could go either way. 

The other issue with asphalt is its variability between batches. One run might be sticky as hell while the next falls off after a day or two.

All of that said, I've seen vehicles with a ton of asphalt based roofing products installed. Resonance was very well controlled. It was more expensive to use and there's no way to know what will happen tomorrow. I've also seen butyl products fail under the same conditions. Mostly roofing products and rebadged roofing products, but not entirely. 

In 2005 there was a guy on this forum who SWORE that Dynamat Xtreme and P&S were the exact same product, manufactured on the same line in a factory in Ohio. At the end of the line, P&S got rolled up and shipped to HD while the DX had a logo applied and was sold to fools at 10 times the price. That's the moment I realized that a lot of advice on the topic was coming from people who had never touched both.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

That's a BIG part of youtube reviews, is people that have no experience with the real products. No one can have worked with both products and claim them to be the same.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> That's a BIG part of youtube reviews, is people that have no experience with the real products..


I'm guilty of putting too much faith in that stuff, very gullible..

That's because i shoot straight and expect the same in return but it's a imperfect world..


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## percy072 (Feb 13, 2014)

Apologies for asking here but seems as though the ones most familiar with these products are following. I have been using a product available at my local audio shop made by Wirez...it is a CLD

Because of it's weight, the shipping cost to import any of the other known "quality" products up here is punishing. It seems to do well but has the Wirez product undergone any testing that would show it as quality??

Wirez. SDBKB


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

Rudeboy said:


> If you use enough asphalt based flashing tape, it will make a positive difference. Asphalt isn't viscoelastic so you lose the most efficient damping mechanism but you will get some panel stiffening and will certainly lower the panel's resonant frequency.
> 
> The first problem, revealed by testing done by myself and others, is that it takes 6-10 times as much asphalt roofing material to approach the performance of a purpose built vibration damper. That also means 6-10 times the work and turns the value proposition on its head.
> 
> ...


The same thing happened to me with the NVX deadner, but not that bad. 

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

All i have to say about peal 'n seal was when i was 16 and didn't know **** about car audio, sq, or anything at that time in my life. I was told about peal and seal by someone in my local car audio shop waiting room while i was having an install done. He swore by peal 'n seal, well like an idiot i went out and bought myself multiple rolls. Well that summer it all started to leak on my doors, the floors, and everywhere i put it on my brand new truck my parents bought me about 8 months earlier. Needless to say my ass was in "hot water" My father had to have all of it professionally removed and it wasn't cheap to say the least. That summer i worked my ass trying to make up for using cheap ass no good PEAL 'N SEAL!! Take it from me, don't ruin a vehicle with a product that doesn't even do nothing for your system anyway!!


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## Lou Frasier2 (Jul 17, 2012)

gstokes said:


> $16 for a 33.5' long x 6" wide roll is a helluva deal, more than enough to cover both door skin and panel..
> 
> It'd be a sinful to install JL C5's and not treat the door..


i had my 94 accord covered in it years ago every square inch possible and it was the worst thing i have ever done,dont waste your money bro,if you have to buy enough for one door at a time and do it the correct way


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Forgot to mention that the most common complaint about asphalt products, other than failure, is odor.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

etroze said:


> Ensolite from Ram audio sticks to any clean surface no joke..


I've heard nothing but good things about RAAM Audio, you just talked me into buying 1 yd (13.8 sq ft) of P&S Ensolite and 6 - 11" x 23" pieces of BXT II RAAMmat for under $70 shipped, Thank-you PayPal..

They recommend 50 - 60% coverage on both inner and outer door skin with the RAAMmat then layer the entire inner panel with Ensolite and a 8" x 8" square behind the speaker on the outer panel but if I'm using a baffle I'm guessing that little square won't do much..

They say a roller is usually not needed with the RAAMmat, that's a good selling point for me because know I now it's staying on for life if it's that damn sticky icky..

http://www.raamaudio.com/


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

gumbeelee said:


> All i have to say about peal 'n seal was when i was 16 and didn't know **** about car audio, sq, or anything at that time in my life. I was told about peal and seal by someone in my local car audio shop waiting room while i was having an install done. He swore by peal 'n seal, well like an idiot i went out and bought myself multiple rolls. Well that summer it all started to leak on my doors, the floors, and everywhere i put it on my brand new truck my parents bought me about 8 months earlier. Needless to say my ass was in "hot water" My father had to have all of it professionally removed and it wasn't cheap to say the least. That summer i worked my ass trying to make up for using cheap ass no good PEAL 'N SEAL!! Take it from me, don't ruin a vehicle with a product that doesn't even do nothing for your system anyway!!


I returned that P&S day after I bought it, didn't realize it was asphalt based but I'm learning, have some products from RAAM audio coming sometime this coming week..
I'd like to begin the break-in process for the C5's by next weekend..


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

gstokes said:


> I've heard nothing but good things about RAAM Audio, you just talked me into buying 1 yd (13.8 sq ft) of P&S Ensolite and 6 - 11" x 23" pieces of BXT II RAAMmat for under $70 shipped, Thank-you PayPal..
> 
> They recommend 50 - 60% coverage on both inner and outer door skin with the RAAMmat then layer the entire inner panel with Ensolite and a 8" x 8" square behind the speaker on the outer panel but if I'm using a baffle I'm guessing that little square won't do much..
> 
> ...




That is one of the many ways to do it, probably not the best one. CLD, CCF,MLV, CCF is probably the best way. Sealing the whole inner door with sticky foam will limit access to service the door if needed. It's great for the door panel after some CLD is placed there for a permanent installation. 

The foam on the outer door behind the midbass, meh, it is like a placibo, it will not hurt anything, a minor deflection of the wave, maybe not much sound improvement if CLD is placed on that area.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

Alrojoca said:


> That is one of the many ways to do it, probably not the best one. CLD, CCF,MLV, CCF is probably the best way. Sealing the whole inner door with sticky foam will limit access to service the door if needed. It's great for the door panel after some CLD is placed there for a permanent installation.
> 
> The foam on the outer door behind the midbass, meh, it is like a placibo, it will not hurt anything, a minor deflection of the wave, maybe not much sound improvement if CLD is placed on that area.


Already got a pair of CLD Tiles coming from Knu Koncepts, One for each door then cover with BXT II RAAMmat and Ensolite..


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