# 10 channel setup using Audison Bitone



## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

I'm having an install done using a factory BMW head unit. I'm doing a Seas reference 3-way active front. Doing a passive 2-way Lotus performance rear fill.
Using four 8" subs in a sealed enclosure in the trunk,

I'm having the Audison Bit-one installed as the processor. Installing two Audison Voce AV 5.1K to power the entire system.

I'll have 75 watts going to the tweeters, 140 watts to the mid-ranges, 140 watts to the 8" mid basses up front, 75 watts for the rear fills and 600 watts to each pair of 8" subs.

The problem is Audison says the Bit-one will only process 8 channels. How to I fool the Bit-one into handling all 10 channels????

Any workable suggestions would be deeply appreciated


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## 69Voltage (Jul 30, 2013)

I recently listened to a BMW that had a single 10" sub in the trunk with tweets, midrange and midbass in the front with a Bit One controlling it all. Sounded awesome.

Really don't think you need the rear fills, and the four subs seem to be overkill. Will save you money and allow you to utilize the Bit One by adjusting your design.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

I like rear fills. It's a decent size cabin in a BMW 750i. The money is already spent. I'm waiting on the amps to arrive now.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

I was wondering if I could do something like leave the rear fills unplugged, Let the Bit-one do it's magic and analyse everything without the rear fills. Then go back in plug in the additional speakers. Perhaps record and save all the settings and put them back manually or something.

I'll be using the digital Bit-in so all the needed signal should be there for the amp to have a full frequency signal.

I was hoping that someone has a Bit-one and played with it? I don't mind manually setting it up as long as I don't lose the signal to the rear fills somehow.


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## jriggs (Jun 14, 2011)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...sconi-zero-|-gladen-|-2x-audison-bit-one.html


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## miztahsparklez (Jan 11, 2006)

I have the same issue as I'm actually using the center channel instead of rear fills. I think I may have to get a second bit processor if I really did want the rear fill


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

I was hoping I could get around the expense of a bit-ten to go with my Bit-one. If that ends up being the case I probably should have gone with 3 AV Quattros and just ran all active to 12 channels.

I'm still open for suggestions.


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## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

You can't get 10 channels of active crossover from the BitOne. You are limited to 8 channels, unfortunately.

The first suggestion is to lose the rear fill, and go 3-way active up front and active subwoofer.

The second suggestion is to use passive crossovers on the front mids & tweets, and on the rear fill.

Besides those option, you would need an additional processor if you want more active channels.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

The best way I can see to do this is to run the rear off a single mono channel and then split it. It is rear fill anyway.

Or use the Bit1 for the fronts and subs and run the rears off of the rear out of the head unit.


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## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

Qmotion said:


> I was wondering if I could do something like leave the rear fills unplugged, Let the Bit-one do it's magic and analyse everything without the rear fills. Then go back in plug in the additional speakers. Perhaps record and save all the settings and put them back manually or something.
> 
> I'll be using the digital Bit-in so all the needed signal should be there for the amp to have a full frequency signal.
> 
> I was hoping that someone has a Bit-one and played with it? I don't mind manually setting it up as long as I don't lose the signal to the rear fills somehow.


don't do this. i have rear fills on (8) channels of processing and you definitely need time alignment between front and rear midbass drivers. 

i was in the same dilemma and wound up adding a tweeter with passive crossover and level control to the front midrange channels- letting the midrange / widebander roll off naturally on its top end. 
however, i do wish they made a 10 channel processor. 
i bought a boston acoustics imaging tweeter with an 8Khz crossover. 
it sounds very very good but i am now upgrading the tweeter and will have to build my own crossovers- i also want to low pass the midrange as well as kind of a refinement upgrade. 
if you start with a three way passive set you could easily run active on the midbass and an active channel for the midrange / tweeter combo with its original crossover. the only dilemma there is you are limited to the HP setting on the crosover to control the midrange, which I found I need to control as its more critical than the midrange / tweeter crossover. 
basically it's a bummer having to deal with rear fill but i find the efforts well worth the improved spaciousness and depth of the sound.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

subterFUSE said:


> You can't get 10 channels of active crossover from the BitOne. You are limited to 8 channels, unfortunately.
> 
> The first suggestion is to lose the rear fill, and go 3-way active up front and active subwoofer.
> 
> ...




Actually only the front 3-way and the subs will be active. The rear fill I would use a passive X-over and only need a full range signal. If the issue with the bit-one is that it only has the ability to process 8 outputs then I would be fine if it allowed the rear fills to pass through an output signal. As an option I can work with just processing the 3-way front and just the rear fills passive, that would use 8 channels. What complicates things is that I'm using 5 channel amps.


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## Zippy (Jul 21, 2013)

There is an option for 10 channel active, but it's not with Audison. You can chain together 2 Brax NOX4 DSP amps and a sub amp to get to 10 channels. Each NOX4 amp has a DSP built in. You can use the line out of the first NOX4 as full channel into the next NOX4 amp, then go sub out on the line out of it to an amp for the subs.It does make tuning a little harder as you can not disable all but one channel as each NOX4 amp has a DSP.


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## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

Qmotion said:


> Actually only the front 3-way and the subs will be active. The rear fill I would use a passive X-over and only need a full range signal. If the issue with the bit-one is that it only has the ability to process 8 outputs then I would be fine if it allowed the rear fills to pass through an output signal. As an option I can work with just processing the 3-way front and just the rear fills passive, that would use 8 channels. What complicates things is that I'm using 5 channel amps.


If 3-way fronts plus subwoofer are active that means you would have 7 channels out of 8 being used, leaving only 1 more available channel for rear fill. It would only work if you run the rear in mono with passive crossovers.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Qmotion said:


> I'm having an install done using a factory BMW head unit. I'm doing a Seas reference 3-way active front. Doing a passive 2-way Lotus performance rear fill.
> Using four 8" subs in a sealed enclosure in the trunk,
> 
> I'm having the Audison Bit-one installed as the processor. Installing two Audison Voce AV 5.1K to power the entire system.
> ...


how close together are the mids and tweeters? If they are pretty close to each other, I would run those passive off of 2 of the channels. that will solve your problem right there. 

For anything above about 5khz, amplitude is more important than T/A anyway, so this would be the logical way to go.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

What Electtromedia's tech support recommended was that I run the front 3-way active and run the rear subs and the rear fills each in mono using the other 2 channels. I wonder how that would affect the staging? According to the factory technician the time alignment will take care of the staging. I guess I'll have to trust it and see how it sounds.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

Qmotion said:


> What Electtromedia's tech support recommended was that I run the front 3-way active and run the rear subs and the rear fills each in mono using the other 2 channels. I wonder how that would affect the staging? According to the factory technician the time alignment will take care of the staging. I guess I'll have to trust it and see how it sounds.


This what I recommended up in post #9. Your stage is set by your front speakers. Your rear speakers are fill and fill only. Guys have been running the rears in mono as far back as I can remember. The path length difference between left rear and right rear is small and should not be noticed from the drivers seat. So the need to time align the left rear and right rear differently is not there.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Qmotion said:


> What Electtromedia's tech support recommended was that I run the front 3-way active and run the rear subs and the rear fills each in mono using the other 2 channels. I wonder how that would affect the staging? According to the factory technician the time alignment will take care of the staging. I guess I'll have to trust it and see how it sounds.


for the rears yes, they need not be in stereo.

for the front stage, unless your speakers are pretty close together, then running the 3-way from one channel will be harder to T/A since they will all get the same delay.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

The front speakers will be in factory locations with the tweeters at the base of the "A" pillars and the midranges in the doors. The tweets and mids are about 8 inches apart from each other. Looks like the tweeters will be assigned channels 1 and 2, mids 3 and 4, front woofers 4 and 5, rear fills channel 7 and the subs will get channel 8. Actually the rear fills aren't in the rear deck.They are being fiberglassed into the rear doors not far from the front seats. Not sure how you would time align that setup....lol.


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## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

Count this vote as believing that running the rear speakers mono will not achieve the best bang for the 8-channel buck vs. sharing a channel for the midrange / tweeter connected passively. 
Having no balance control on the rears will pull your stage to the left if they are going to be at any worthwhile relative volume level. 
In addition the individual T/A for the rear channels allows much better bass phase response as well as L/R and front / rear stage control. For example, initially my stage left side was biased towards the front and my stage right side was biased towards the rear. Trust me, a diagonal stage pattern ain't so nice. 
With some fine tuning of the left and right rear T/A I was able to focus the stage in the center of my windshield. It came in handy and I don't believe SQ is compromised by having the midrange and tweeter crossed passively with the tweeter level matched via. the l-pad in the crossover. 
The more important crossover / slopes between midbass and midrange are still controlled with active flexibility as are the levels of the midbass and midrange/tweeter combo channel. 
it's a dam nice setup!


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

avanti1960 said:


> Count this vote as believing that running the rear speakers mono will not achieve the best bang for the 8-channel buck vs. sharing a channel for the midrange / tweeter connected passively.
> Having no balance control on the rears will pull your stage to the left if they are going to be at any worthwhile relative volume level.
> In addition the individual T/A for the rear channels allows much better bass phase response as well as L/R and front / rear stage control. For example, initially my stage left side was biased towards the front and my stage right side was biased towards the rear. Trust me, a diagonal stage pattern ain't so nice.
> With some fine tuning of the left and right rear T/A I was able to focus the stage in the center of my windshield. It came in handy and I don't believe SQ is compromised by having the midrange and tweeter crossed passively with the tweeter level matched via. the l-pad in the crossover.
> ...


I'm not sure you fully understand where my problem is. The Bit-one only processes 8 channels. The fully active front 3 way front uses 6 of the 8. That only leave 2 channels left for the rear fill and the sub channel. The sub channel can be assigned #8 and can be mono. Now I only have one channel left for the rear fill. I can only run the rear fill using the passive crossover and I'd have to run them mono on each side.

Virtually the rear fill would be run as if it was a center channel as seen by the processor. The bit-one should be able process and time align it. I basically would not have front and rear control or even worry about left and right. That would all be adjusted by the time alignment I'd have it set for either my driver position or center car staging. there would be no need to play with it after that.

What your saying is just run passive between the tweeters and midranges and keep it simple. My only issue with that is that Seas doesn't make a crossover network for the reference speakers that work between the tweeter and midrange. Where would I find such a crossover?


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## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

make your own crossovers. if your midrange is off axis, they won't need a Low Pass filter. 
Cross your tweeters at 5Khz using a second order High Pass crossover (capacitor and coil) for your tweeter's impedence-
Passive Crossovers, Capacitor and Coil Calculator 

if your tweeters are 3db or more sensitive than the midrange, you should also add a resistor in series and parallel after the crossover- an L-pad- go for -3db reduction. here is the calculator for that- (bottom of the page)

L-PADS

all of these parts are inexpensive and can be found at parts express, meniscus or madisound.


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

There are 2 ways my system can be setup. To solve this I've decided to build the car as a dual mode platform.

I'm going to install the Hertz Mille MLCX 2 TM crossover network for the fronts. That will give me the option to to run passive between the tweeters and mid ranges. Using the crossover I'll have a true 8 channel system.

As an option I can unplug the speakers from the crossover and run them straight to the amps and configure an active 3-way front. With that I'll run the rear fills mono using the 7th channel and run the subs mono using the 8th channel. I ran this by Electtromedia's tech support and they said that it should still sound awesome. It's best to disconnect the tweeters on the rears and just run the mid basses between 250Hz and 3KHz. I will not be able to use the Bit-tune however. I'll have to tune it manually. With this setup I can just dial the rears out to achieve studio sound. It should sound more like a live concert when I start dialing in the rears. Supposedly this option sounds better than the standard 8 channel setup.

I think I'll start off with the active front setup. After about a week of listening I'll switch to the hybrid passive front and see which sound I like best. Thanks for all your helpful suggestions.


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## val69 (Apr 7, 2011)

What was the final set up? How did it sound?


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## Qmotion (Sep 29, 2013)

I ended up using the Hertz Mille TM crossovers between the midranges and tweeters up front. The mid/tweets use 75watts and the 8" mid basses use the 140 watt channels active. The rear mid bass and tweet are passive using the Seas crossovers with 75 watts from the second amp. The woofers are mono with 600 watts per pair from each of the amps.

The overall sound is simply amazing!!!!!!!!


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## YellowC4S (Nov 25, 2008)

only way to do it would be to use 2 BitOne's


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## momax_powers (Oct 26, 2013)

Or just add a mini dsp 2x4 which would save you some cash


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## fahadco80 (Mar 19, 2015)

subterFUSE said:


> If 3-way fronts plus subwoofer are active that means you would have 7 channels out of 8 being used, leaving only 1 more available channel for rear fill. It would only work if you run the rear in mono with passive crossovers.


Hi,

I live in Kuwait (Middle East), And here in Kuwait no shop can help as we they do not have the experience to work with Bose and processors, So I will be doing the installation and the tuning process.

I have a 2009 Nissan GTR, with factory Bose system, the head unit only have 4 channels (low level signals) FR, RL, RR and RL going to the factory Bose amp under the seat, from there the factory amp outputs those 4 to get 8 channels (speaker level signals), 1 channel for centre, 4 channels for my 3 ways in the doors, 2 channels for rears and 1 channel for the 2 subs in the middle of the back seats (with is own separate amp).

=================================================

My plan is to add the below equipments:

Subs: pair HERTZ ENERGY ES200.5 (factory location) 200 RMS
Centre: one HERTZ HI-ENERGY HL 70 (factory location) 50 RMS
Rear Deck: pair HERTZ DCX87.3 (factory location) 30 RMS
Rear Sides: pair HERTZ HCX 690 (new fabricated location) 130 RMS
Doors: pair HERTZ HSK 163 (3 WAY) (factory location) 150 RMS

I did not decide yet what amps and DSP will go for.

=================================================

Most of the people who I asked suggested to stick with front stage and subs, and some of them told me to go with a separate head unit, these two options I am not thinking of at all, I would like to keep all factory speakers locations working and would like to add the 6x9 extra rear speakers as I mentioned before, I want to have the sound to come from every ware like the factory Bose, I do not know how to explain, but its much like if you are in a club and listening to music from every where, hopefully you can understand me guys. 

=================================================

Now my questions:

1. where is the best place to take the wires from, is it the head unit (the 4 channels low level) to the processor and from there to the new aftermarket amps? Or keep the factory amp and take the speaker levels outputs from the factory amp to the processor and from processor to the new amps? (attached a wiring diagram so some one expert could take a look at)

2. Is there a way to keep the passive crossover box on the 3 way Hertz and install each 3 way on 1 channel off the processor? Or its a must to keep each speaker of the 3 way on a separate channel on the DSP (active)? most of installers does the 3 way on 2 channels, I really do not understand why, but for my situation, I would like to reserve some outputs off the DSP, I will need to use them for the other speakers, 8 is not enough cause I am going to add 2 more speakers in the rear sides.

3. If your answer to Q2 is yes I can play the 3 way passive xover on one channel on DSP, is it still going to be tuneable on the DSP? Or will be losing the tuning feature on this specific channel? 

4. I really need your suggestions on what amps and DSP to go for with my setup?



Regards

Fahad



PS: I attached the factory AMP adapters wiring diagram (and below, I wrote the wiring pin numbers), it may help you to figure out a way to do it all work.


Four Channels Bose Low Level from Head Unit to AMP:
2:Front Right:
19 - Red - line level input, front right +
20 - Green - line level input, front right -

1:Front Left:
18 - Blue - line level input, front left +
32 - Pink - line level input, front left -

3:Rear Right:
23 - Brown - line level input, rear right +
33 - Yellow - line level input, rear right -

4:Rear Left
21 - Violet - line level input, rear left +
22 - Light Blue - line level input, rear left -

One Channel Bose Line Level From Main Bose AMP under the seat to Bose Sub’s AMP:
09 - Pink - line level OUTPUT, subwoofer + (this goes to the subwoofer amp)
14 - Light Blue - line level OUTPUT, subwoofer - (this goes to the subwoofer amp)

Seven Channels Bose High Level From AMP to speakers and SUB’s AMP’s:
1: Center:
15 - Violet - speaker level output, centre +
28 - White - speaker level output, centre -

2:Mid-range & Tweeter Right:
08 - Light Blue - speaker level output, front right squawker and tweeter +
13 - Brown - speaker level output, front right squawker and tweeter -

3:Mid-range & Tweeter Left:
05 - Grey - speaker level output, front left squawker and tweeter +
04 - Orange - speaker level output, front left squawker and tweeter -

4:Mid-bass Right:
02 - Yellow - speaker level output, front right +
03 - Light Green - speaker level output, front right -

5:Mid-bass Left:
01 - Red - speaker level output, front left +
10 - Green - speaker level output, front left -

6:Full-range Rear Right (will be installed parallel with the extra 6x9 that I bought):
27 - Orange - speaker level output, rear right +
37 - Light Green - speaker level output, rear right -

7:Full-range Rear Left (will be installed parallel with the extra 6x9 that I bought):
06 - Violet - speaker level output, rear left +
07 - Light Green - speaker level output, rear left -

Bose Power:
11 - Yellow - Battery
12 - Black - Ground
31 - Violet - amp turn on signal


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