# 2018 Chevy Sliverado LTZ Z71 Crew Cab



## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

I picked up a 2018 Silverado LTZ Z71 Crew Cab a month ago and I'm trying to decide what to use for the build. So far I have this decided

Keeping the OEM head and using a NAV-TM M650-GM for signal integration and will use the optical out to a DSP
Use a JL Audio 900/5 from my previous build
Pretty much decided on one Sundown Audio SD3 10 under the rear passenger seat
Will use the stock Bose amp to power the OEM door speakers for now. I may replace these later on after I see how everything turns out.
. 

Front Stage
In my last build I used NorthCreek tweeters and Seas CA18RNX mids and was extremely happy with that pairing. I'm considering the Seas again but the NorthCreeks are no longer available, so I'm trying to figure out what direction to go in. I've used the Seas 27TFFNC/G tweeter and liked it but I found the NorthCreek to be smoother with better detail.

DSP
Still trying to figure out what to do for a DSP. The Helix looks nice but there are no local dealers and I really don't want to buy off of eBay. I might go with the JL TwK D8 because it's half the price. 

It's been a while since I've followed in detail how the raw drivers vs component sets is still comparing. I see AudioFrog getting good reviews but crap that's a lot of cash for their components. That makes me lean back towards going with a raw driver setup. I'm pretty sure I can make the Seas CA18RNX sound good in the doors but not sure what tweeter to pair up with it. I was considering the Dayton Audio RST28F-4 large format tweeter in the dash. Today I cross the Seas at about 2.5k and bring in the NorthCreeks at about 3.2k and it creates a smooth transition. The Daytons specs show it goes down to 1.4k so I should have no problem there. Anyone have suggestions on some other tweeters I should look at?

Anyone have the JL TwK D8? Curious to get some feedback. Like I said I'm also interested in the Helix but just haven't found a good dealer to purchase one from. Where is everyone getting theirs from?


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

I used the CA18RNX in a previous build, close to a decade ago. If sticking to the raw driver route, id definitely suggest the SB Acoustics 6.5’s. They can be easily sourced from Madisound. As far as quality tweeters to pair with them, the 29mm SB ring radiator is a good one too.


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

I just pulled my alpine x110 slv and went back to factory HU along with the NAV TV Most gm650. Thought I would give it a try since they were offering 20% off

Using a helix dsp pro with optical and it’s dead quiet. Impressed so far

Went with a pair of hybrid audio L2se in the dash and Clarus mid bass in the doors


IIRC forum member brumledb used the JL dsp for a while, he may have some feedback for you

Helix DSP’s pop up for sale in the classifieds you may be able to get a good deal

Post some pics as you go if you get a chance. There aren’t many truck build logs here

Good luck with build


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## moonbeamjones (Jun 25, 2016)

I believe PacAudio? is coming out with an integration unit soon. I saw a video on youtube (5star car audio)


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

moonbeamjones said:


> I believe PacAudio? is coming out with an integration unit soon. I saw a video on youtube (5star car audio)


Yeah I saw that but went with the NAV-TV product instead when they gave the discount last month. Plus there's a few folks using it, where the PAC is brand new.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Anyone here with a 2015+ Silverado using large form-factor tweets in the dash? If there is, what are you using and did you have to mod the dash to make them fit?

The only thing I could find about the size of the dash speakers is that they appear to be 2.75". Most of the tweeters I'm looking at have a cutout size between 2.75 - 3". This could really put a damper on things as I like using the large format tweeters for a 2-way front stage.


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

I replaced the stock bose dash speaker with the Hybrid audio L2se, fit without cutting anything just had to make a speaker baffle

Later I decided to see if I could put a pair of L3se flangeless in there. Took a little cutting with the dremel to widen the opening

Made some press fit baffles and was able to get them to fit

Depth is tight, I need to cut some of the factory sound deadening material and open them up 

Plan on running 2 way tweeterless for now

Staging is good, time aligned to center of dash, could be a little wider and may put tweeters in sails at some point


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

I did both. I started with a 2-way system. Large format tweeter in dash location (NVX XPS tweeter). I made an adapter for this and it fit perfect and sounded great. I just recently went 3-way. I used the same tweeter adapter and put a Morell 2.5 inch wideband in there with no issues. I put a smaller tweeter on the a pillar. The 3-way sounds better but not by much. If you want to stay completely stealth then put the tweeter in the dash. Its angled enough so there is little reflection off the dash.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

TitanCCBT3 said:


> I replaced the stock bose dash speaker with the Hybrid audio L2se, fit without cutting anything just had to make a speaker baffle
> 
> Later I decided to see if I could put a pair of L3se flangeless in there. Took a little cutting with the dremel to widen the opening
> 
> ...



NOLA, I used to live there on the WB.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

TitanCCBT3 and Styker

Any clearance issues in the front doors? Seeing one of you is using a Clarus 6.5, I can't imagine there is.


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> NOLA, I used to live there on the WB.


Westbank is the best bank


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> TitanCCBT3 and Styker
> 
> Any clearance issues in the front doors? Seeing one of you is using a Clarus 6.5, I can't imagine there is.


I used the metra adapters and reinforced it with a 1/2 inch thick ring on the inside and treated it with fat mat

Solid and fits perfectly. Has about 1/2 inch clearance from the window track inside with the Clarus 6.5 which has a beefy magnet

Plan to make a baffle out of HDPE at some point.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

____


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> @TitanCCBT3
> 
> I have a few questions if you don't mind.
> 
> ...



I didn’t use the TwK, I believe brumledb did for a while

I ran the toslink cable down the center. I didn’t have any room behind the stock HU to put the NAV TV module so I mounted it underneath/behind the toggle switches under the HU. You have to pull the center console out to get to it. No issue since I had swapped out the stock bose sub for the JL audio stealthbox anD wante$ to put some more fat Matt deadener to stop some of the rattles.

There is a metal bracket that I was able to zip tie it to. I did put some overkill foam on the back of it so it didn’t rub

The wires were easily passed up to the HU and hooked up

I think I have a pic in my build log, I’ll see if I have a better image somewhere and post it

I didn’t do the seat mod, but did mount an amp board on the back wall using the existing bolts already in place. I’ve been riding around without a back seat now for 2+ weeks. I just finished it up and once I set the gains I will put my back seat back in. 

I left the usb cord plugged in so if I need to update it I can just disconnect the battery and plug in. The cord is tucked away behind the removable side panel on the bottom of the front of the center console.

Check my build log I just updated it yesterday with new pics

Hope this helps


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

TitanCCBT3 said:


> I didn’t use the TwK, I believe brumledb did for a while
> 
> I ran the toslink cable down the center. I didn’t have any room behind the stock HU to put the NAV TV module so I mounted it underneath/behind the toggle switches under the HU. You have to pull the center console out to get to it. No issue since I had swapped out the stock bose sub for the JL audio stealthbox anD wante$ to put some more fat Matt deadener to stop some of the rattles.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response. I tried to delete my post as I found your build log after I posted. I didn't realize JL had a stealth box for the console. I did that in my 97 F-150 and it was pretty decent. It was a full-size sub with a bunch of power to it. How do you like the sound of yours? Were you able to get the rattling to stop with the deadening material?


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

No clearance issues with Audiofrog GS690. I never did check to see how much more space there is behind the magnet though. I also used an NVX XSP 6.5 with no issues. I used custom built rings for the 6.5 and Metra kits for the 6x9's.


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## TitanCCBT3 (Jul 15, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> Thanks for the response. I tried to delete my post as I found your build log after I posted. I didn't realize JL had a stealth box for the console. I did that in my 97 F-150 and it was pretty decent. It was a full-size sub with a bunch of power to it. How do you like the sound of yours? Were you able to get the rattling to stop with the deadening material?




So far sounds good, I’m not a bass head so I like tight punchy bass which it does well

I had to take the center console out and add more deadener and overkill foam. Once I did that it took care of most of the rattles.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Stycker said:


> No clearance issues with Audiofrog GS690. I never did check to see how much more space there is behind the magnet though. I also used an NVX XSP 6.5 with no issues. I used custom built rings for the 6.5 and Metra kits for the 6x9's.


How much more midbass do you get with the gs690 vs the NVX (SB) 6.5’s?


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

Not much gain in midbass. I'm shocked that there wasn't much overall increase in midbass. Those NVX woofers are pretty good overall speakers. The midbass from the 6x9 is slightly louder and more pronounced. The big advantage is that my midbass is now sitting on top of my dash whereas before I always knew that it was coming from the door. I'm not sure if this is a result of going from 2-way to 3-way or the new tune.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Stycker said:


> Not much gain in midbass. I'm shocked that there wasn't much overall increase in midbass. Those NVX woofers are pretty good overall speakers. The midbass from the 6x9 is slightly louder and more pronounced. The big advantage is that my midbass is now sitting on top of my dash whereas before I always knew that it was coming from the door. I'm not sure if this is a result of going from 2-way to 3-way or the new tune.



Hmmmmmm. One of the attributes of the system in my FJ is that the mid-bass is excellent and it is very hard to determine location without any sub volume. If you mix in the sub even at a low volume, the mid-bass blends in and the stage is full of mid-bass. Now you have me wondering if I will have a challenge replicating that in the truck.


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Hi Xlynoz. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500hd crew cab SLT Z71 (your trucks brother). Here’s what I did to mine: 
Kept factory hu
Installed NAV-TV behind hu
Ran 20’ optical cable down the side to the back
Helix DSP Pro MK2 mounted on its own shelf next to the Bose amp
2x Zapco z150.4AP amps and a Zapco XM2kii
Scanspeak r3004s in aluminum pods off the sails
Scanspeak 12M 4.5” in the dash 
Audiofrog GS690 6x9s in the doors
Audible Physics AP3 3” mids in the D-pillars for rear fill
2x Raven 10XLs under the back seat in a Fox Acoustics downfiring enclosure. 

I did not do the seat hack so mine doesn’t fold down. I completely cut out the factory 2.5” speaker mounts in the dash and created baffles to mount them to the under side of the grill. I did the full Sound Deadener Showdown treatment to the front doors and they are excellent. I had to cover up the vents behind the back seat in order to get the amps all on the back wall.

Let me know if you have any questions. I’m thrilled with all my gear and the installation choices. 



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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Golden Ear said:


> Hi Xlynoz. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 2500hd crew cab SLT Z71 (your trucks brother). Here’s what I did to mine:
> Kept factory hu
> Installed NAV-TV behind hu
> Ran 20’ optical cable down the side to the back
> ...


Are the amps on the back wall as well?


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> Are the amps on the back wall as well?




Yes.










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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Golden Ear said:


> Yes.



I wish I had that much room. With the Bose amp, and power window, I'm glad I only have to put a JL HD 900/5 and processor back there.

What did you do for speaker wires in the doors? I was thinking about trying to find a female harness for the plug that goes into the Bose amp and just use the factory wires. Would make wiring the doors and dash super easy.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

And the process begins. Decided to use the JL HD 900/5 that I had in the FJ Cruiser. Considered getting a JL XVi or a Arc XDi. If the JL XVi had more than 75w per channel on 1 - 4, I probably would have gone that way especially since I'm probably going to go with a TwK. 75w would probably be enough but I don't want to go with enough on a new build. I also decided to use the HD 900/5 because I will do an active 2-way front stage and a single SI BM MK V 12 to start. Had a good discussion with Nick over at SI on the sub and a single 12 may be enough. However I will be building an enclosure for two subs with separate chambers. If the one is enough, I'll downsize the enclosure and everything is done. If I need the second sub, I'll try using the single 500w sub channel on the HD 900/5. Nice thing about the amp is that the sub channel is 500w RMS 4 - 1.5 ohms. So I can run it at 4 ohms with a single sub or 2 ohms with two subs. If 500w isn't enough for two subs, I'll buy a second HD 900/5, run a sub off each amp and most likely bridge the 1 - 4 and run 200w to each mid in the door. The other four 100w channels will go to the tweeters temporarily and then leave me room to go 3-way active if I like later. 

This weekend I start working on the enclosure and treating the doors.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Did some deadening and some recon work today. Got the driver side door done with some RAAMMat (outer, inner and door panel) and a layer of Ensolite IG2 between the door and door panel. 





















Not sure how many people do this but years ago I started using Telsa tape to tighten up the clips or at least act as a barrier. I found putting a small strip at the opening and then pushing in the clip works pretty good.






















While I had the panel off, I was trying to figure out the biggest speaker I can put in there. I wanted to try to do an 8" mid in the doors. Unfortunately the area in the door panel that's recessed for the speaker is only 8" wide. I was considering the Steven's Audio MB-8 but it's 8.2", so I'll have to go with a 6.5". Looks like the SA6-CS may be my choice.


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

Awesome post. Just picked up a 2019 Sierra, so I will be following along closely.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

Hi don't want to hijack your thread but Golden Ear do you have a build thread ? If not can you show a picture of your D-pillar mounted mids ? 

And have you noticed any ill effects of covering your vents ? 

FYI I'm also building a 2015 Sierra right now, and all these build logs have helped a lot. Also using Nav-Tv as the stock head unit is really quite brilliant. 
I'm currently building my amps and Helix DSP on the back wall as well. Thank god I don't have the rolldown window. 
Hoping to run L3SE in the dash either pods or stock, L8SE in the door (yes some custom work will be required) and haven't decided on the sub yet. 
Rear fill is an open question - rear door speaker locations isn't conducive to rear fill hence my interest in your d-pillars.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Well it didn't take long for me to change my mind. Decided to just get a second BW MKV and be done with it. Now so long as 500W RMS between the two works out then everything will be sweet. Based on my listening preferences, Nick thinks it will work out fine. We will see.

At this point in the build I'm gathering all my install items, 1/0 wire, distribution blocks, heat shrink, braided sleeving, wire lugs, more deadening material, etc. Going to get all the base install stuff done first (deadening, cables run, M650 installed, amp rack installed, box built, etc.). Once that is done, I'll take a weekend to swap over the front stage speakers and start using the JL TwK and HD900/5.


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

SOLID job on those doors!


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Did the passenger side door this weekend. Unfortunately my Ensolite didn't get here on time so that is saved for another day.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)




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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Started planning out the enclosure. Didn't realize how tight of a fit it would be to get two BW MKV 12" subs under that seat. Plenty of space to make a square edge box but I want the enclosure to not protrude from under the seat. I want it to follow the same lines as the seat, while being a little tucked in. I'm probably going to do something like what was done in this thread https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/162172-2014-silverado-crew-cab-z71-ltz.html. It will take more time to build something like that and time is something I have very little of these days. If I knew of a good builder in my area, I'd almost be tempted to just have it built so I can focus on the rest of the install. Sucks to be a grownup with a job, LOL.


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

xlynoz said:


> Started planning out the enclosure. Didn't realize how tight of a fit it would be to get two BW MKV 12" subs under that seat. Plenty of space to make a square edge box but I want the enclosure to not protrude from under the seat. I want it to follow the same lines as the seat, while being a little tucked in. I'm probably going to do something like what was done in this thread https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...y/162172-2014-silverado-crew-cab-z71-ltz.html. It will take more time to build something like that and time is something I have very little of these days. If I knew of a good builder in my area, I'd almost be tempted to just have it built so I can focus on the rest of the install. Sucks to be a grownup with a job, LOL.




Why not get one of these and call it a day? 
http://www.audioenhancers.com/vehiclespecific/crew170.php


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

preston said:


> Hi don't want to hijack your thread but Golden Ear do you have a build thread ? If not can you show a picture of your D-pillar mounted mids ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I don’t have a build thread but here’s a pic of my rear fill. The APs fit the spot like it was made for them.








Yes, there is a problem when you cover the vents. Air doesn’t move as well when you turn the fan & AC on, and the cabin is so well sealed that you feel pressure when you close the door with the windows are up. I’m going to try to find a way to at least get one vent back in there. 


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> Started planning out the enclosure. Didn't realize how tight of a fit it would be to get two BW MKV 12" subs under that seat. Plenty of space to make a square edge box but I want the enclosure to not protrude from under the seat. I want it to follow the same lines as the seat, while being a little tucked in. I'm probably going to do something like what was done in this thread https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...y/162172-2014-silverado-crew-cab-z71-ltz.html. It will take more time to build something like that and time is something I have very little of these days. If I knew of a good builder in my area, I'd almost be tempted to just have it built so I can focus on the rest of the install. Sucks to be a grownup with a job, LOL.



I’m with you.....no interest in a “sorta fits” box that does not at least attempt to follow the seat lines. I started this one months ago.....If I paid myself minimum wage I could have purchased 3 boxes from MTI acoustics, but I’ve loved every minute of the project. By far the most complicated box that I have attempted. Almost ready for vinyl!

















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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Golden Ear said:


> Why not get one of these and call it a day?
> CREW170 - Chevy/GMC 1500/2500/3500 Speaker and Subwoofer Boxes and Enclosures
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Problem is that it doesn't follow the curve of the seat. The rear seat in that picture is old. The newer Silverado backseat isn't straight across. It curves in the middle at the center console like this 









Also I believe in one of the threads about the BW MKV, Nick said they would sound better facing down.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

speakerman99 said:


> I’m with you.....no interest in a “sorta fits” box that does not at least attempt to follow the seat lines. I started this one months ago.....If I paid myself minimum wage I could have purchased 3 boxes from MTI acoustics, but I’ve loved every minute of the project. By far the most complicated box that I have attempted. Almost ready for vinyl!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think you should just send that my way and I'll finish it for you


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

@Speakerman99 I just looked at those MTI enclosures. Very nice. I'd almost consider paying the $400 for a stage 1 but those don't follow the lines either. LOL


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> @Speakerman99 I just looked at those MTI enclosures. Very nice. I'd almost consider paying the $400 for a stage 1 but those don't follow the lines either. LOL




I think that’s the $1500 option 


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Pulled out the rear seat to apply deadening, plan the amp rack and get an idea what I'm going to do with the Bose amp. I want to use the stock wiring for the front doors and dash so I need to find harnesses that fit. I've searched and searched for wiring and harness information but didn't find much. So I decided to take a bunch of pictures that may help someone down the road.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Here's some shots of the back wall of an LTZ with the Bose system, power rear window, seat belt and some module. I couldn't find a picture with all of this to plan ahead of time. 


















































































My plan was to use my HD 900/5 and a TwK 88 and if I needed more power, I would add another HD 900/5. When trying to map it all out on the back wall, add the power distribution blocks and orient the amps so you can get to the controls and still pull the wire connectors out, I can't fit everything. I've already planned to move the stock amp over 4 inches but that still doesn't give me enough room. The only thing I can do is to move the stock amp over the passenger side vent and I don't want to really do that. So now I'm considering going back with the VX 1000/5i. Same deal, if it's not enough power I'll add a second one. I have enough room to do this if needed. Don't really want to spend another $1000 to have basically the same config with less power on the front stage. I'll have to get the amp rack built before I can make the final decision.


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> Here's some shots of the back wall of an LTZ with the Bose system, power rear window, seat belt and some module. I couldn't find a picture with all of this to plan ahead of time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Great pics. Wish those had been around when I did my build a few years ago. Did you get the wiring mapped out? I have the speaker cables/power mapped out if you need it. 


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

@speakerman99

No not yet. Just started working on that so I can build a bypass harness for the amp. If you can send that my way I would greatly appreciate it.





speakerman99 said:


> Great pics. Wish those had been around when I did my build a few years ago. Did you get the wiring mapped out? I have the speaker cables/power mapped out if you need it.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Man, just noticed JL increased their prices. VX1000/5i went up $100. Also didn't realize that the amps didn't come with the DRC. Guess I was just figuring that since the TwK did the amp would. That's another $200 if I go the VX route. I hope there's some Black Friday deals to be had this year.


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> Man, just noticed JL increased their prices. VX1000/5i went up $100. Also didn't realize that the amps didn't come with the DRC. Guess I was just figuring that since the TwK did the amp would. That's another $200 if I go the VX route. I hope there's some Black Friday deals to be had this year.


I noticed the price bumps last week too, when I was looking for a set of C7 tweeters...


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> @speakerman99
> 
> 
> 
> No not yet. Just started working on that so I can build a bypass harness for the amp. If you can send that my way I would greatly appreciate it.




It will be the end of this week before I can track down my copy. If you need it sooner I cobbled it together from some of the other forums. I think I posted it here somewhere else but I can’t seem to find it tonight. 


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

I'd be interested in seeing that diagram as well. I just need to tap the rear door speaker wires in my case.

I've seen other guys run into the rear power window issue on the back wall as well. I "lucked" out and my truck has almost every option but for some reason didn't have a rear sliding window which was fine with me, and it really opens up room on the back wall. So one consideration is maybe just removing your rear power mechanism unless you really dig the sliding rear window. 

I don't think its the end of the world to mount the amp on top of the vent as long as you figure out a way to still let the vent breathe a little ie don't just slap a piece of plywood completely over it, leave it open and put the amp on top of it with some space to breathe. I left my vents open but "covered" them with a hanging layer of MLV as well as the remnants of the old rear wall insulation. When having the truck apart its obvious a great deal of road noise comes thorugh these vents. With the stock insulation its pretty well attenuated but in my case once you remove the main bulk of it just having the layer laying over the vent allows a lot of noise through still. So I"m still experimenting with that, there is still room on my install to stuff a strip of melamine foam up there too. I also need to make sure I'm still getting good HVAC airflow. They are by no means air tight, but you'd be surprised how much covering them up can make the HVAC fan feel "weak".


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I'm actually doing an install with the NavTv 650-gm right now into a 2016 Sierra! I am trying to avoid cutting any OEM wiring. This truck doesnt have the BOSE radio, and I beleive this bypass wiring would be perfect ( the green plug carries the speaker wires) since i can cut and tap into the bypass harness keeping the OEM wiring uncut 

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_153829_Axxess-AX-GMLAN09EXT.html


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

A lot of silverado/sierra builds on here. I have the Pac Ap4-gm61 and absolutely love it, goes to my Dayton Audio DSP-408. I dont have the Bose system, but it still works. LLJ Customs is a shop that makes custom harnesses for to bypass the Bose amps if anyone is interested...

Heres some of what I've done, still got some left to do, but making progress..


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)




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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

Timelessr1 said:


> I'm actually doing an install with the NavTv 650-gm right now into a 2016 Sierra! I am trying to avoid cutting any OEM wiring. This truck doesnt have the BOSE radio, and I beleive this bypass wiring would be perfect ( the green plug carries the speaker wires) since i can cut and tap into the bypass harness keeping the OEM wiring uncut
> 
> https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_153829_Axxess-AX-GMLAN09EXT.html


That looks like the right harness, but I'm not sure... but I can tell for sure that the CarAV 12-232 harness works perfectly for the speaker wires, like u said can tap into the harness and not the actual truck harness... can get it on Amazon for like $15-20... it will say it's for a Volvo but trust me it works, I have it... 5starcarstereo did there PAC ap4-gm61 install with it, it's how I knew itd work...

https://youtu.be/qhgWUylbQpY


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Mitchc1113 said:


> That looks like the right harness, but I'm not sure... but I can tell for sure that the CarAV 12-232 harness works perfectly for the speaker wires, like u said can tap into the harness and not the actual truck harness... can get it on Amazon for like $15-20... it will say it's for a Volvo but trust me it works, I have it... 5starcarstereo did there PAC ap4-gm61 install with it, it's how I knew itd work...
> 
> https://youtu.be/qhgWUylbQpY


Thanks for that video Mitch! Looks like that Volvo harness will be cheaper, and easy to repin! Now i have to figure out if i need to really do anything with the OEM tunner bc of the left right issue...

And that volvo harness doesn't look available on amazon! 

Looks like i have to but two Metra harnesses and make my own bypass...


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that video Mitch! Looks like that Volvo harness will be cheaper, and easy to repin! Now i have to figure out if i need to really do anything with the OEM tunner bc of the left right issue...

And that volvo harness doesn't look available on amazon! <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/mad.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Mad" class="inlineimg" />

Looks like i have to but two Metra harnesses and make my own bypass...[/QUOTE]

I got mine from Amazon about a month ago, I'd email them or maybe search for it on Google and see if somewhere else has it... and I've had my Ap4-gm61 in for about 3 weeks now and I havent had any issues with the transmitted signals (am/fm/xm) now I do notice a bit of a sound quality difference between them and say pandora or my phone... but I always notice a difference so I dont think its that... 

Like 5starcarstereo guys said I dont think youd even notice it if u didnt know about it... seriously, it sounds fine... absolutely worth the purchase!! The sound quality difference between using an Audiocontrol lc2i and the pac is night and day, it really does sound sooo good now... I'm using a Dayton audio DSP-408 and now it really can do what it's meant to do...


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Which two Metra harnesses are you going to use? What I've gathered so far was 
Metra 71-2107 male plug to amp
Metra 70-2057 female plug to speaker wire harness

I don't have the wiring diagram yet but I thought I remember reading somewhere that the Bose system had speaker wires across two plugs coming out of the amp. I'll confirm that once I get the wiring identified.




Timelessr1 said:


> Thanks for that video Mitch! Looks like that Volvo harness will be cheaper, and easy to repin! Now i have to figure out if i need to really do anything with the OEM tunner bc of the left right issue...
> 
> And that volvo harness doesn't look available on amazon!
> 
> Looks like i have to but two Metra harnesses and make my own bypass...


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

xlynoz said:


> Which two Metra harnesses are you going to use? What I've gathered so far was
> Metra 71-2107 male plug to amp
> Metra 70-2057 female plug to speaker wire harness
> 
> I don't have the wiring diagram yet but I thought I remember reading somewhere that the Bose system had speaker wires across two plugs coming out of the amp. I'll confirm that once I get the wiring identified.



You are 100% correct with the Metra harnesses you listed! With those two harnesses you can basically connect the two power wires, and use the others to cleanly tap into the oem speakers. 

BUT as far as i know this will work for the "non Bose" ...cant say for sure if the Bose amp uses the same harnesses


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

I'm now considering using a VX1000/1i and VX800/8i. My concern is that I will need to bump up my stock alternator to support that load. What's the best way figure out what I will need? I know watts/volts = amps but the best I can do with that is guess what I would be using.


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

xlynoz said:


> I'm now considering using a VX1000/1i and VX800/8i. My concern is that I will need to bump up my stock alternator to support that load. What's the best way figure out what I will need? I know watts/volts = amps but the best I can do with that is guess what I would be using.


those are class D amps, and run pretty efficient, also you aren't running them full draw constantly.

Im not sure the size of your alternator but I know in my f150 its 220 from the factory...which has been enough to power the truck and my old slash series 1000/1 , 300/4 , and 300/2


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

xlynoz said:


> I'm now considering using a VX1000/1i and VX800/8i. My concern is that I will need to bump up my stock alternator to support that load. What's the best way figure out what I will need? I know watts/volts = amps but the best I can do with that is guess what I would be using.




I’ve run 2 and 3 amp SQ setups in these trucks with potential max amp draw just under 140 amps or just south of 2000 total watts. These are helix and/or RFosgate amps so those are real “potential” watts. No dimming or early dead alternator issues. I’ve always installed an oversized capacitor to reduce drag on the electrical system. I can’t prove that the Capacitor is the key but I’ve always used one to make me sleep better. I seldom run my system full tilt so your mileage may or may not vary. 


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

Here’s the wiring harness info. It was cobbled together from several sources but it should be decipherable. 

UQ3-UQ5-UQG - The dash speaker wire colors wire the same as for their appropriate door. 
Left Dash Blue(+) Brown Blue(-)
Right Dash Yellow(+) Yellow\Black(-)

UQA (which is for Bose) - 
Left Dash Yellow/Blue(+) Yellow\Grey(-) 
Right Dash Brown/Green(+) Violette/Brown(-)

Here is a pic of the UQA schematic. https://www.dropbox.com/s/jkrlp44n0bltf1w/uqa.png?dl=0


2015 Chevrolet Stereo Wiring Diagram Schematic Colors

Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Purple
Car Stereo Ground Wire: Black

Left Front Speaker Wire (+) Positive: Blue
Left Front Speaker Wire (-) Negative: Brown/Blue
Right Front Speaker Wire (+) Positive: Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (-) Negative: Yellow/Black

Left Rear Speaker Wire (+) Positive: Green
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-) Negative: Green/Black
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+) Positive: White
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-) Negative: Blue/Black

Subwoofer Speaker Wire Positive / Negative: Blue/Gray & Gray/Black



1st plug far right side:

Red +

Black -

Blue/grey sub

Yellows left front

Blue/brown right front

2nd plug from the right

White/ blue right rear

Brown/purple right tweeter

yellows left tweeter

greens left rear


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Thank you very much speakerman99. This will be very helpful.




speakerman99 said:


> Here’s the wiring harness info. It was cobbled together from several sources but it should be decipherable.
> 
> UQ3-UQ5-UQG - The dash speaker wire colors wire the same as for their appropriate door.
> Left Dash Blue(+) Brown Blue(-)
> ...


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Had a few days off and was able to get the back wall and floor deadened and the amp rack built.





























Going to put some foam between the back wall and amp rack





























I used 1/2" plywood for the amp rack, cut out in all the needed areas.












I used the existing studs off the back wall to mount the driver side of the amp rack












Had to drill holes in the amp rack to sink the studs for the OEM amp mounting location.












Mocking up how to do the passenger side. Still haven't decided if I want to mount the straps to the front or rear of the board. It all depends on how far over I need to put the stock amp. 





















If there's ever a question as to how much room is behind the seats, there's a lot. This is the stock amp relocated and probably sticking out 2" inches more then when it was in the stock location. 

Seat folded down












Seat folded up












If I go with the VX800/8 and VX1000/1, I'm going to try and run them right next to each other on the driver side of the amp rack. That will leave me with room for any thing in the future on that amp rack. Can't imagine I would need anymore than that but you never know. This is how I want to do it.











It will be very tight to do both amps on one side. Until I get the amps I won't know for sure. All depends on the cable bends. Being very conservative, it should work but my cable routing gets really tight. Once I have the amps, I'll mock up the locations and use T-nuts or threaded inserts to mount them, then carpet the board.


I put the stock insulation back on for now. I will cut out around the VX amps and leave the rest. Without that over the vents, the truck is very noisy.





















I looked at running the power cable and I really want to do what someone else did on here. They ran the cable through flexible conduit and ran it from the battery to the back underneath the truck. That's how I did my FJ and it was super easy. However I had a rubber grommet where I needed it on the FJ. On the truck, I would need to drill through the floorboard. To do that I need to get something like a 5/8" - 3/4" drill metal drill bit. I wish my Unibit was big enough but it's not. I've scoped it out and I have the space to drill but I'm not sure how thick the floorboard is right there. Where I need to come through is right next to a double wall section with a void in between. I'd hate to start drilling just of screw something up. I'll have to do some more investigating.


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

Looking really good man... If you do what I did you can get rid of most of the stock back padding and not have it be noisy. If you look up about 6-7 posts you'll see my pics, the one with my sound deadening shows it the best, I cut out all the padding besides corner pieces on the left and right sides, mounted my amp rack between them and I dont notice any noise anymore. 

It's more noticeable if you dont have the seats in, at least in my double cab it was. The first time I drove it after I took the padding out I didnt have my back seats in and thought I made a big mistake because I could really hear the air noise on the highway. But once I installed everything and put my seats back in I totally forgot about the noise, it's really not noticeable to me...

So I think before you make the decision to put the padding back I'd put your amp rack in and put the rear seats back and see what that sounds like, you may be surprised... and if it's still noticeable to you then I'd try just covering the vents with the padding 1st before you go and put the entire padding back in... I just think the amp racks w/o the padding in our trucks look soooo much better/cleaner... that padding gets marked up so easily... But I really think you can eliminate most of that excess noise w/o having to put the entire padding back, at least in my experience..


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Actually in that picture with the OEM padding installed, the amp rack is under there. I only have the stock amp installed on it but it's there. If I didn't think the amps would get hot, I'd just put them under it as well but I'm sure that won't work. I'm just going to cut out the section where the amps are and leave the rest of the padding. Yeah it would be great to put the amps on display but I'll never see them. The seats don't fold down and since I don't have to get to any controls on the amps, there's no need to get back there once the install is done. It's all about function over looks at this point.




Mitchc1113 said:


> Looking really good man... If you do what I did you can get rid of most of the stock back padding and not have it be noisy. If you look up about 6-7 posts you'll see my pics, the one with my sound deadening shows it the best, I cut out all the padding besides corner pieces on the left and right sides, mounted my amp rack between them and I dont notice any noise anymore.
> 
> It's more noticeable if you dont have the seats in, at least in my double cab it was. The first time I drove it after I took the padding out I didnt have my back seats in and thought I made a big mistake because I could really hear the air noise on the highway. But once I installed everything and put my seats back in I totally forgot about the noise, it's really not noticeable to me...
> 
> So I think before you make the decision to put the padding back I'd put your amp rack in and put the rear seats back and see what that sounds like, you may be surprised... and if it's still noticeable to you then I'd try just covering the vents with the padding 1st before you go and put the entire padding back in... I just think the amp racks w/o the padding in our trucks look soooo much better/cleaner... that padding gets marked up so easily... But I really think you can eliminate most of that excess noise w/o having to put the entire padding back, at least in my experience..


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

For the record, I was able to sandwich the entire factory padding behind my amp rack/wall. I just kept the wall dimensions inside of the vents. Was a real pain to do it that way but I liked the end result. Here’s the only photo I can find at the moment. Wiring was a mess at the moment but you get the idea.










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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Decision made. Ordered a VX800/8i and VX1000/1i from a local shop. I had been talking to them before the JL price increase and they agreed to honor the pre-tariff price so that's a instant $200 savings. Now I just need to decide what to do for the front stage.


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

I understand about form n function over looks, especially since our seats dont fold down (Dont even get me started on that, think that's the biggest problem I have with the truck) Those seats are an absolute PITA to put back in, taking them out isnt that bad, but that 60/40 split, putting the 60 back in is not fun, especially by yourself, with a new amp rack n new amps sitting right there. You have to be so careful you dont scratch your amps, but you have to set the seat in perfectly, brackets have to match up perfectly with the bolts, the locking plate has to be inserted perfectly on both sides so it slides into place, then you have to have the other side lined up perfectly so itll bolt back to the rear passenger seat... OMG its giving me anxiety just thinking about it!! 

I dread having to take the seats out to work on my stuff, to the point that I dont lock the 60 side anymore, I just lay it in and bolt everything down and the locking plates just lay up against the "U" connects. I like it soooo much better, everything still bolts down perfectly and looks right, but now I can actually fold down the seat! Had to keep the rear passenger side locked in tho bc that's where my daughter sits and I wont sacrifice safety with her... shes about the only thing that trumps the truck stereo. I think when I get the time I'm going to add the 2" seat lift kit, if you do that when you lift the bottom part of the seat up it raises the seats high enough where the plate lifts out of the "U" lock and your able to fold it down, but when you put the seat back in place it goes down far enough where it will still lock. I like that option better than cutting a few inches off the lock itself.

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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

I'm surprised you could fit the padding under your amp board, its pretty thick and has lots of "convolutions". I also wouldn't recommend draping it over your amps, nor do I think there is room to mount a board, amps, and that thick pad behind the seat. It might physically fit with the seats down but the seatback moves backward when you fold up the bottom cushion.

Mitch11113 I don't really see a problem with cutting the brackets a little bit so you can fold the upper seat down. I haven't done it myself just because I kind of think of it as a little theft protection, pretty hard to steal the amps if you can't get to them without removing the seat. Looking at how it works and other people that have done it I don't see it as a compromise at all, still plenty safe and easy to do. 

Have you sat in the back seat ? I contemplated a 1.5" or 2" lift but it will really compromise seating headroom for adults. 

When I mounted my amp board and cut away the OEM sound pad, I did put a layer of MLV and CCF behind my amp board. NOt quite as effective as the OEM pad but still blocks a lot. 85% of the noise is probably coming from the back vents anyway, but yeah a lot of the noise in a truck comes from the back wall. 

As quiet as these trucks are stock, I still couldn't help myself from going through the whole CLD/CCD/MLV on the back wall and entire floor, as well as CLD and melamine foam in the headliner and 100% sound treated doors, and frankly I'm a little shocked how well that worked its even quieter now. A diesel 3/4 ton truck that's quieter than my also sound proofed (but not as well) 1992 Cadillac.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

Also, on running the power cable, I think its smart to run it under the floor and bring it in through the back. But you do have to be careful to not cut into the double wall area. There is about a 4" section right at the bottom of the back wall that is not double wall and is accessible from underneath. I brought in 0 awg power and ground cables there using two holes. I used those plastic pass through bolt together sealer things they sell, you can find them at Sonix Electronix for one.


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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

Sorry about my seat rant, but man those rear seats and I dont get along.

Anyways, like I said I understand about function being #1 & the fact that no one really sees the amp rack behind the seats anyways. I guess I'm just anal, the fact that I see it and I know it's there is enough to bother me. Especially when I know how good/clean it can look w/o that padding on. Now if I couldnt have substantially minimized the extra noise caused by removing it, I probably would have put it back, but since I was able to it was not goin back in. I like you sound deadened the rear wall and then used 1/2" wood as my base. I didnt want to put holes through the body so I originally was going to try and use some type of adhesive to mount the rack, but the more I looked into it, the more I was considering just bolting it, seemed like it was a lot of extra work to do an adhesive mount. Luckily I was able to notice near the top of the rear wall where the cable hooks are mounted, the wall has like a bump out and theres a section that has about a 1-2" hollow space and if you look closely theres some indents on that piece, so I was able to drill into those indents and mount the rack at the top with 4 bolts. Also by mounting it to the bump out it gives u some space behind the rack to run your wires if you want to hide them. The way I cut my rack I contoured it to the bottom of the wall so it actually lays on the floor, by doing that I didnt have to mount it anywhere else and its sturdy. Then I got 1/8" black ABS, cut it to the shape of the rack and put that down over the wood so it looks almost like it belongs back there. Came out really good for the 1st time I've ever done an amp rack. No rattles or excess noise either.

I have been thinking about adding some type of insulation or some more deadening of some sort behind though. Since my original setup I've changed my subwoofer amp from a JBL GTR1001 to a Soundqubed S1-1250 bc I changed my sub setup from an underseat box with a Sundown SD3 12" to a Soundqubed HDS3.1 12" in a rear middle seat box. When I switched those I took the rack out and rearranged it. I previously had everything mounted on the rack since I had no where else to mount anything. It was really crowded on the rack and I ran my wires behind it. So when I took the underseat box out I gained that space and moved some things. I put the SQ S1-1250 under the rear seat along with some other components and that freed up space on the rack, not so cluttered. By doing that I also was able to run the wires on the rack, trying to show them off (Still not entirely satisfied with the wire layout) but now I really have no need for the space behind the amp rack and wall so I figured filling that gap with some kind of material wouldnt be a bad idea...

Theres more space than you think back there to work with and I just think with how cleanly you removed the pad and did everything else that you obviously have the skills to make a really nice looking amp rack. I think putting the pad over it and just cutting around the amps takes away from your work, especially when I think you can eliminate most of that vent noise with minimal work and not have to sacrifice on function or aesthetics... Now again this is just 1 mans opinion and it's your install so the only person you need please is yourself, I just think the work u did looked too good to cover up is all...

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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

I agree with you about the seat hack not being a problem and it retains its safety if you do it right and dont cut off too much. And I know what you mean about the head room back there, reason I decided against cutting is bc my truck is a lease and as much as I think I'll buy it, a lot can change in 2 1/2 yrs, so everything I've done so far I can easily undo, the only thing I've done that 100% cant go back to perfectly stock is the cutting of the back wall padding. Now I still have what I cut out, its 1 piece and I'm sure I could put it back in and the dealership would prob never know the difference, but that's it, everything else I've done can be taken out/put back like it was never there or never taken out in the 1st place. 

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## Mitchc1113 (May 29, 2018)

preston said:


> I'm surprised you could fit the padding under your amp board, its pretty thick and has lots of "convolutions". I also wouldn't recommend draping it over your amps, nor do I think there is room to mount a board, amps, and that thick pad behind the seat. It might physically fit with the seats down but the seatback moves backward when you fold up the bottom cushion.
> 
> Mitch11113 I don't really see a problem with cutting the brackets a little bit so you can fold the upper seat down. I haven't done it myself just because I kind of think of it as a little theft protection, pretty hard to steal the amps if you can't get to them without removing the seat. Looking at how it works and other people that have done it I don't see it as a compromise at all, still plenty safe and easy to do.
> 
> ...


And you're totally right about how well insulated these trucks are, they keep sound in soooo incredibly well, to the point some of the guys at work were saying how weak my system was bc they could barely hear it when I'd be sitting in it, all doors closed listening to my music.

Now I'm 33 yrs old, blaring my system full tilt just to get noticed is something you do when you're a teenager. So anytime theyd say something I'd always say ok, yep my **** is weak... then the ones with stereos would be like come listen to mine, I'll show you what loud is. So I'd give a listen, couple of them are ok, the other few down right stuck (however I'm also mature enough not to feel the need to tell somebody their system is awful, now I'll tell them if they ever want to get something new I'd be willing to help them pick out gear, etc, always willing to offer advice/knowledge to those who seek it. Well after I'd listen to someones system theyd want to hear mine and I'd say why, my ****s weak and theyd say I know but I want to hear it, so I'd let them get in my truck and give a little demo, and I always start pretty low, and even at low mine is prob louder than the loudest. And the looks on their face when they hear it is always enough bragging rights for me. Then I'd say so you still think its weak and theyll be like no and then I say ok well what about this and then I give a real demo and that 1 is the icing on the cake. And I tell them my truck is so well insulated that barely any sound escapes. No ghetto rattle either which is beautiful, you get clean/loud bass...

Kind of reminds me of the Ace Ventura scene with the soundproof glass, lol, if I open up my doors it gets very loud, but as soon as I shut them it's like instant mute....

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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

It's time to get this party started. I've got off all next week. These came in









And I decided to go with the Stevens Audio SA6-CS active. Those will be here next week. Planning to do 75W to each tweeter and 200W to each mid. That leaves me with two channels free for now. Considering trying to do something with the OEM sub enclosure in the center console for strictly mid bass duty. It will all depend on how well the SA6 mids perform on mid bass.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Spent today working on the amp layout with the anticipation that something may be added down the road. Everything I wanted to do made it too cramped. After a couple of hours of trying different layouts, I said screw it and spread the amps out. Figured if I need to add something sizable down the road, I'll make a new amp rack that goes across the whole back wall and move the Bose amp all the way to the passenger side to get more room. Took a few times to dry fit everything to make sure it will clear various parts of the rear seat, jack tray, etc. 










































































I think the hardest part of today's work was drilling a 5/8" hole in my relatively new truck.



















Next, I'll carpet the rack, wire up the amps and run the main power from the under the hood to the amp rack. Unfortunately for me, a while ago, I caught wire lugs on sale and stocked up. For the life of me I can't find where I put them and no one local has 1/0 lugs. Guess I'll have to wait until next week to actually hook up the power.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

> I think the hardest part of today's work was drilling a 5/8" hole in my relatively new truck.


I hear ya -


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

preston said:


> I hear ya -


LOL, that's a funny spot for a pass-thru :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Carpeted the rack today and did some wire tracing to tap into for the doors since there seems to be no easy way to run new speaker wire into the doors. Was going to start running the power cable and flexible conduit to the rack but the temps dropped and the conduit got really stiff, so I'll deal with it on a warmer day.


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## thefordmccord (Oct 18, 2012)

Good looking build. I love seeing all of the Silverado builds.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

I don't blame you if you want to tap into the existing door wiring, but here is what I did with the door wires -

Slip off the rubber boot, and then use a screw driver to pop the upper and lower body side tabs to release the connector. Push and pull the giant grommet out of the door as well. Use a coat hanger or whatever technique to push the wires through the boot and into the door. 
I've seen people drill out empty locations in the molex connector for wire but I never figured out how they drilled the body side without taking the door (or dash) off. But remember the two plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the connector ? The holes in the body side for these tabs are quite generous, and you can slide a 12 awg speaker wire pair through these slots and still pop the connector back into the body. Make sure and put the wires between the tab and the connector so any pressure applied to the wire is plastic/plastic rather than between the tab and the sheet metal, but its not a super tight pinch fit.


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## speakerman99 (Apr 18, 2016)

The doors come off with only 4 bolts and a friend to help......just sayin  










I chose to add the upper piece of conduit rather than drill those molex connectors. It seemed to have a wider margin of error at the time. 


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Well last week I got a bunch accomplished. Only thing left at the end of the week was to pull the OEM dash speakers, make mounts for the tweeters and install them. There are a few house keeping things left but mainly cleanup stuff and putting the interior back together. Unfortunately the NAVTV M650 unit had issues. It kept shutting off the output and I'd have to unplug the molex to reset it but the issue would come back after a while. Spoke to tech support today and they said it was because of me not grounding the amp to the battery because the M650 is sensitive to ground issues. What doesn't make sense to me is that I was using Toslink so the amps and M650 module were electrically isolated. I could understand if I was using RCAs but there shouldn't be an issue with where the amps are grounded if I'm using fiber. In any case NAVTV stepped up, issued me a call tag to send it back for them to fix whatever the issue is. Unfortunately I can't finish the install unless I want to drive around the next couple of without sound, since everything is using active crossovers and can't be run from the OEM amp. Considering digging up my Sony MiniDisc Walkman and just running fiber from it to the VX for the time being. It would really be nice if the bluetooth adapter for the VX allowed streaming. Uggh, a lot of work to end up with nothing to show for it yet.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

While I was waiting for the replacement NAVTV module, I installed 1/0 AWG to feed the negative distribution block on the amp rack. This was at the suggestion of NAVTV tech support. I ran it like the positive side but did it down the driver's side underneath. Fortunately I had enough flex conduit left to run from the back to under the hood.











Got the new NAVTV module and got it installed. 










At this point I have all the sound deadening completed, the amp rack and amps are done, all the cabling is run (even have some extra/redundant for troublshooting), the mids of the SA6-CS are installed. Ran out of time to get the tweeters installed this weekend. I was hoping to have more time to work on the install but that hasn't worked out. Knowing it will take a bunch of time to do the enclosure I want for the subs, I purchased a prefab to hold me over. It has the correct air space specs so it will work for now. Best part is it came damaged and long story short Amazon refunded me the full price and I got to keep it. I need to do some work to it, so in the end it will cost me about $30. The damage is cosmetic so I did put the subs in just to get a idea of how they sound. So threw them in and with just crossovers set (no EQ, TA or levels) for the stock dash, SA6-CS mids and BM MKVs. The mids sound pretty good with a flat EQ. I've been running them on the stock amp for the last week and I thought they sounded pretty decent then as well. The MKVs are pretty solid sounding. I was listening to Flo Rida's "Low" and was pretty impressed how strong they were with no kind of tune. Initial impressions are positive but still need to finish up the tweeter install and get the system tuned.

On a side note, I may still have an issue with the NAVTV module. Even though this is a new unit, I had the same issue where it stopped sending signal to the amp. Just as before, I confirmed the head unit is sending a signal as the stock amp still works at the same time the module doesn't. I used a separate source to the XVi and it worked while module didn't. I tried both fiber and analog from the module and neither worked. I've put in about 2 hours of listening and before the unit would have cut off. So far it only happened right after I installed it so I'm hoping it was just a "first use" thing. I'll have to hold off on the tweeter install until I know for sure, just in case I need to go back to the OEM amp. I've got a 9 hour road trip coming up in 2 weeks and the last thing I want is to have no tunes. I'm hoping I can put in a bunch of listening time this week to determine if the module is OK or not. Really would like to get the install finished so I can get a good tune on it before the road trip.

I have tons of pictures and once I get the install completed, I'll get them all up.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

Well first day of my vacation was today. Got a bunch of small items buttoned up and finally got the tweeters installed for the SA6 CS 2-way. I've been driving around with just the mids installed for the last two weeks and I was pretty impressed with them running off the OEM Bose system while I was waiting to finish up everything else. Now that I've heard them running off the JL VX800/8i they sound pretty good with with no tuning. Can't wait to see what they sound like after I get the truck tuned. I will say this. I was expecting much more oomph out of the VX800/8. I've got the mids bridged to 200W each and while the volume gets loud, I don't think it gets any louder then the Seas mids I have in the FJ on the HD 900/5 at 100W each. And those are only seeing half of that 100W since they're 8 ohms. I may be jumping the gun and after it's tuned the volume may change a little. 

I will say this. Those VXi amps are quiet as hell. Granted I'm digital in but at full volume on a 0db silent track, there is no noise what-so-ever. 

Tomorrow I'll start getting the truck back together and then on Sunday hoping I can start tuning so I can get to breaking in all these new speakers.

Out with the old










In with the new









And yes I know the tweeter isn't centered on the bracket. That was by design to get it has high up into the OEM grill as possible.


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## xlynoz (Jun 16, 2008)

My friends, it's been a while. Let's get re-acquainted.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

xlynoz said:


> Did some deadening and some recon work today. Got the driver side door done with some RAAMMat (outer, inner and door panel) and a layer of Ensolite IG2 between the door and door panel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I just stared my 2016 Silverado regular cab today. I tried to seal doors with abs but the funky curve where the window motor is screwed all that up. So i just spotted the door with deadener, insidr and out, used butyl rubber betwen the door crash bars anand called it good i wanted to do mlv but silverados since i can remember have weak door pins


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## lucci (Sep 2, 2019)

TitanCCBT3 said:


> So far sounds good, I’m not a bass head so I like tight punchy bass which it does well
> 
> I had to take the center console out and add more deadener and overkill foam. Once I did that it took care of most of the rattles.


Hello Titan,
I have a 2018 GNC Sierra Z71 SLT crew cab with bose.
I see you have a three way system in your truck. I inicailly wanted to go with a two way being in factory locations being the GB 15 in the dash and GB 60 in the front door and GS 62 coax in the rear doors. If I go with the 3 way GB10, GB25, GB60 in front will i gain a huge difference in sound quality or an extra bit more?
Also where did you put the tweeter? I would like to keep it simple but, if you think I may be loosing a lot in difference from a three way, I may sway towards it instead. Please let me know.....Thank You...Steve


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

lucci said:


> Hello Titan,
> 
> I have a 2018 GNC Sierra Z71 SLT crew cab with bose.
> 
> ...


The oem location in the dash does fairly well with a wideband but I didnt like a tweeter there. I'm doing a 3 way in my 16. This is what I have
















Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## lucci (Sep 2, 2019)

So would the Audio Frog GB25 2.5 inch mid do good crossed between 300 hz and 2500 hz, do ok in the stock dash location with your experience? And what do you think of the GB10 tweeter in the seal on the door. I want to avoid making custom A pillars for now.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

lucci said:


> So would the Audio Frog GB25 2.5 inch mid do good crossed between 300 hz and 2500 hz, do ok in the stock dash location with your experience? And what do you think of the GB10 tweeter in the seal on the door. I want to avoid making custom A pillars for now.


I'd want the tweeters more on axis. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## lucci (Sep 2, 2019)

I think i can make a quick little offset spacer to angle them in the door sill by the A pillar about 20 degrees towards the opposing head rest. Do you think this would help make a decent difference. I can't find the video I ounce found that showed how to get a tweeter wire through the Molex connector and into the door from under the dash. BTW your costume A pillars look awesome...


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## lucci (Sep 2, 2019)

Meant to say custom A pillars


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