# Plexiglass



## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

I have taken the advice of a few people on this site and now I am getting a sundown sa-8. My question now is on the box I am wanting to have a plexiglas or lexan face on the box. The deminsions are 18.25x10.25 on the front it will be a ported box. My question is the thickness i need for the face? I talked to the company i have cutting the piece for me and they told me that 1/2 would be enough, but i don't know if it will flex too much. What are your thoughts? Any help would be appreciated?


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

O the box is .8 ft3 and i have a rf 500.2 on this sa-8


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

it shouldn't be a problem for a box like that but i've never hung the sub on the plexi portion before. i have done plexi as the rear on a 10 box using half inch with no problem though.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks man I appreciate it. I am goin to build it hope it turns out right.


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Are you planning on mounting the sub to the plex? A window in a ported box won't see as much pressure as a sealed box, so you should be fine there. But if you are planning on mounting it directly to the plex, personally, I would definately step up to 3/4. You shouldn't be looking at a huge price jump, for a little peace of mind. That sub is really heavy, not to mention it can really boogie. You'll get more rigidity and more depth for your mounting hardware. Win, win. If they want a crazy amount for 3/4, PM me, I've got some desent sized chunks, left over from previous projects, collecting dust.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

I plan on bolting the sub throught the plexi. I really dont want to screw to the plexi bc i dont want it to crack.


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## kritiana99 (May 22, 2012)

It's an interesting approach. I commonly see unexceptional views on the subject but yours it's written in a pretty unusual fashion. Surely, I will revisit your website for additional info.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

Im gonna start on the box this weekend and have the glass cut by next week ill post pics up in a build thread as soon as i get it all put together


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Make sure you use gasket material on the sub flange, and some thin rubber washers on the inside wouldn't hurt. You want to avoid any sharp edges from contacting the plex, and causing cracks. When you tighten the bolts, make sure you do the star pattern, like lug nuts. Bring them all finger tight then slowly work around, alittle tighter each time, alternating from one side to the other. Also might be worth asking around for a friend with a torque wrench you could borrow. Good luck!


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

THANK YOU I PLAN ON DOING THAT I THOUGHT ABOUT MAKING A STEEL RING WITH THE NUTS WELDED TO IT AND BOLTING IT IN TO SANDWICH THE SUB AND THE PLEXI BUT I THINK THAT MIGHT BE OVER COMPLICATING THE WHOLE THING


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Well, the ring idea leads me to my next question. What do you plan to use as a radial stop, to prevent the nuts from spinning? Do you plan on bolting the sub to the plex, with a wrench on the nut, and then the plex to the box? You would have to come up with a gasket between the plex and the box, to make it seal yet stay removable, to be able to remove the sub. The ring idea, if glued into place, would allow you to permanently seal the plex to the box, and still remove the sub, if needed. Also, are you plannning on using socket head cap screws? Nylock nuts, or locking washers?


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

I plan non either tack welding the nut or a stud to the ring. On mounting the plexi to the box i am using t-nuts and putting silicone between the box and plexi. I am going to paint the the surround so you can't see the silicone. Or I was thinking of using wetherstripping as well. I will probably just use lock nuts and rubber washers to mount the sub to the box.


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## Audiophyle (Aug 8, 2009)

This is a box I built almost identical to what you are planning. This was an Audiopulse Epic 8" running 600w and .8cuft tuned to 32hz or so. The window was something like 28"x 12" (it was a while ago)










I used 5/8 and it actually flexed more than I had anticipated. If I were to do it again I would have def gone thicker. As you can see I built the box to have a mounting flange all along where the window mounted, and used a thick high-density foam strip to seal the window to the wood. I mounted the woofer to the plexi with a nut & bolt, and as one piece then attached the window to the box. This allowed me to easily get back into the box so I could replace the window, lighting, mirror back, etc....

The biggest thing you want to keep in mind with plexi is to use washers or nuts/bolts with large contact areas. You need to spread the load across as much surface area as possible or it will crack at the fastening point.
I sealed the woofer by using a thin high-density foam along the basket. Silicone will look really messy, no matter how great you lay it down. Foam on the other hand will be perfectly uniform and will look great on the other side of the plexi (no need to paint or cover it up on the outside), not to mention reusable


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

That looks pretty friggin' awesome! Exactly how I would have built it, except I like to leave the carpet a little long on the front, to cover the bolts on the edges of the plex. But I'm OCD like that.


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## Audiophyle (Aug 8, 2009)

Thanks, I wrapped the carpet around the edge and butted up to the foam so the plexi would sit snug, and I finished the edges of the plexi off with a fine sandpaper and mild radius. The bolts along the plexi were stainless hex bolts with "fancy" (for a lack of a better word) stainless washers. I wanted them to be visible to give it that rough industrial edge while maintaining the option of getting back into the box. I think we're all a little OCD around here. lol

It sounded even better than it looked too.


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Gotcha. I've seen them both ways, and liked the look of both, depending on the vehicle. 
I remember an over-the-top 4X4 Jeep, years ago, with exposed stainless bolts all over the body and a full plex box for two IDQ 12's, with matching stainless bolts. 
Looked beefy and industrial, good fit, anything stealthy would have looked out of place.
I was wondering how it sounded. Did you model it first? I knew the port would have to be long (guessing somewhere around 45x2x12), givin the width, to achieve that low of a tune. 
Just curios if you had any issues with it being too big (dead air/canceling)?


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## Audiophyle (Aug 8, 2009)

It sounded great, and no I did not model it. I went off the advice I got from various RLi-8 users and couldnt have been happier with the results.

The port wrapped around the back half of the box, you can see its beginning on the left.
I do not recall any issues with dead air/canceling.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

That is sick man. Mine is pretty much gonna look the same.


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## D-Bass (Apr 27, 2012)

if the sub is being mounted through the plexi, go for 1". if it is just a panel on the box, 3/4" plexi(or 1/2 lexan might be ok)


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## ChaunB3400 (Dec 12, 2009)

Audiophyle said:


> This is a box I built almost identical to what you are planning. This was an Audiopulse Epic 8" running 600w and .8cuft tuned to 32hz or so. The window was something like 28"x 12" (it was a while ago)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thats just nasty


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