# Dayton Pro Audio Mic cable



## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

Well, I took the plunge to buy everything I needed for my own DIY RCA's. I really wanted to get everything from one place to save on shipping, so I went with partsexpress. I chose them mainly b/c they had the best selection of rca ends, as well as everything else I'd need. I got Dayton Pro Audio Mic cable, and while it's a bit more expensive than gepco that's so popular here, it was worth it to make one purchase. Here is the cable I ordered:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=100-220&CFID=8561243&CFTOKEN=55340101

And here are pics I took of it tonight. They weren't kidding on the copper braid. It's thick, and was a PITA to separate. From looking at things, that'll be the most time consuming part of making these RCA cables. I'm going to have to buy a pick to help pull the braid apart for a ground. Anyways, the cable is very very solid, and I have no reservations about using this in my car.

Here are pics:


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

looks solid to me  

you said you are using the copper braid for the ground?? Why are there two wires in the center, the white and black? I would assume those are the signal wires, correct? and the copper braiding is the 'shield'??


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

i'm using the wire for two channel rca's, so each wire in the middle will be a signal wire, and then they'll share a common ground, which is the copper shield.

Chad correct me if I'm off on that...


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## innsanes (Feb 8, 2007)

That's a good idea using the center as signal and shield as ground, save alota $$


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## Foglght (Aug 2, 2007)

Wow, I really like that. Things to think about!


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Thumper26 said:


> i'm using the wire for two channel rca's, so each wire in the middle will be a signal wire, and then they'll share a common ground, which is the copper shield.
> 
> Chad correct me if I'm off on that...


Asleep at the switch :blush: 

Yep, that usually werks just fine.


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

hm, having problems...see thread in general section.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

My bad, what you are doing is pretty labor intensive [ hope it is worth it ]


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

as long as they work, it will be.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Will all audio components work properly if you share a ground between left and right?


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

on the rca's, yes.


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

So how's everything going with your RCA's? I'm interested in trying this just for the hell of it. (probably won't but i need something to take up the time during the winter  )


Now, as far as the cost of your homemade RCA's, how does the cost compare to a pre-made, store bought rca of comparable materials and performance?


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

honestly, i haven't started yet. I'm waiting on my amp to show up so I can confirm my rca ends will fit under the shroud. If not, I'm going to have to buy some stubbies!

as far as cost, it all depends on what ends you use. wire, techflex, and heatshrink is relatively cheap. the rca ends is what gets you.

so, as far as monetary cost out of pocket, it's cheaper, and you know you have good solder connections. However, if you put an hourly rate on the time spent making them, it might not be considered to be so cheap.


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

Thumper26 said:


> honestly, i haven't started yet. I'm waiting on my amp to show up so I can confirm my rca ends will fit under the shroud. If not, I'm going to have to buy some stubbies!
> 
> as far as cost, it all depends on what ends you use. wire, techflex, and heatshrink is relatively cheap. the rca ends is what gets you.
> 
> so, as far as monetary cost out of pocket, it's cheaper, and you know you have good solder connections. However, if you put an hourly rate on the time spent making them, it might not be considered to be so cheap.


x2 on the rca ends, i guess, because I was looking at p/e and other places.....a decent one could easily be around 10 dollars it seems....i really can't imagine how one rca end could be that much better in quality that you would notice a difference in the car, right?


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

there are some pretty cheap neutrick ends on PE. their p3 ends are alright as well.

i doubt you'd ever notice that much of a difference even in a HT environment. i think a lot of it is personal preference. i bought some nakamichi ends just b/c i really like them. Now I have to wait until my amp comes in to see if they'll fit behind the shroud.


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

you can do two per run, but you need enough of the braid to solder for ground. i have enough, so i'm just going to do one per run.

not sure on the P3's, the look like the screw type, so no crimp/compression.

if you're going to do one cable, ya might as well do them all so they match.


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

i'm thinking of taking the plunge on the rca's now....are you using one run of the mic cable for both the left and right signals, and using the copper braiding for the shield as well as the common ground?

i read the other diy rca thread, and it seemd as though this is ok to do. I just want to make sure, so i buy the right size techflex.....

also, with the p3 rca connectors, you do not need a compression tool, correct? the cover is a screw type?

i'm thinking of skipping the diy rca's for my subwoofer out, because i do not think it is as necessary for the low frequencies....what do you think?


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

Thumper26 said:


> you can do two per run, but you need enough of the braid to solder for ground. i have enough, so i'm just going to do one per run.
> 
> not sure on the P3's, the look like the screw type, so no crimp/compression.
> 
> if you're going to do one cable, ya might as well do them all so they match.


i just ordered myself some of the pro-audio cable from dayton, i'll offer up my opinion of it as soon as it comes


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## annoyingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

That's the exact cable I use for my DIY RCAs. There are two conductors in the middle, because it's meant to be used with balanced XLR connections.

Personally, I just ran one cable per RCA. I have 6 running through my car 

For RCA ends, while you won't necessarily get much difference in signal quality with different ends, I have noticed cheaper ends tend to fit a little looser, and are more prone to wiggling loose in a car environment. I bought a bunch of really cheap ends at PE (maybe like a buck a piece), and I'm always worried about them falling out. They never have yet though.


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

I just got the mic cable the other day....i found the copper braiding to be pretty easy to get apart with a pick. 

are you still going to be using one run for a pair of RCA's? i'm wondering how you will connect the ground connections and still make it look pretty. i was just concerned since i was thinking of using one run of mic cable for a pair of RCA's, but since the hot wire would be so small, how would it be terminated into the RCA connector?


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

it depends on the ends. some rca connectors have screw downs for the positive, and then you solder the ground. on others, you have to solder both ends.

if you do 2 channel, you have to pick enough braided shielding apart to run the length of the pigtail from the rca cable and have slack to plug them in. size of your rca end comes into play again here. i found covering the hot wire and the shielding to be used for a ground with heatshrink gives you pretty good aesthetics. then cover the main wire with techflex, and heatshrink over the end of the techflex and where the two ends split off and things look pretty clean.

another thing to think about is you need to find an rca end with a smaller opening so you can attach to that small wire more easily. a couple layers of heatshrink could help build up the diameter, but a smaller end would look a lot better.

i may pick up some stubby rca ends instead of the nak ones i have, b/c room looks to be pretty tight under my amp.


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