# 6.5 v 8" mids - how much of a difference?



## tjframe (Jun 17, 2015)

Let's say you have an active 3 way front sound stage with properly built midbass kicks or door configurations.

If one can fit in an 8 inch driver in a space, how noticeable is that over a smaller 6.5", especially if you have a sub. For discussion purposes, I'm imagining a system where there subs run up to 70 or 80hz or so, and the midbass spans from there up to 300-500hz before the dedicated mids take over.

In your personal experience, is the extra space required for that slightly larger cone area generally considered to be worth the trouble fitting it in smaller interiors?


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

8" is not sljust ightly bigger - check Sd of 6,5 vs 8" driver.
With such big midbass I would cross them lower like - 60-70Hz range - there the benefit of bigger driver come into play.
I usually prefer smaller 6,5 driver or multiple 6,5 drivers over bigger unit, especially if you plan to cross it higher than usual in 3-way setup. A 2,5 way option is cool too where additional driver compliment only lower part or reproduction.

Since midbass is the most critical part of the system where all kind of problems arise, I would say, YES, go with the bigger driver if you can install it correctly.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

You don't have to cross lower to take advantage of the extra cone area. The fact that the 8" can be more effortless in that range makes a good difference. I'm using a buyout 8" and I can tell you now that it would have taken a far more expensive 6.5" to equal what it does in the 70-120hz range. Just make sure the 8" you try is still applicable to the install and not just any ole driver because it's bigger. 

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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

of course no need to, but it is an option if chosen driver allows it and you have solid door panels/install without resonance of speaker panel/enclosure and door-card - why not. You will get front stereo bass up to lower frequencies, and you will also be able to lower xo point on SW - in terms of competition (EMMA) this is a plus - you get that solid up front bass/subbass that wont pull to the back of the listening area.


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## vinnie45acp (Jan 11, 2019)

When you state "2-5way option" what does that exactly consist of?


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## openglcg (Jun 23, 2018)

A 6.5 will have less beaming issues up high making the sq better. Anything above 1500hz will sound a bit worse on an 8. But 6.5s start to beam around 2k and many people use them above that. In general you can have some beaming and still sound ok just know that if your speakers are not on axis it is an sq concern. That said, I use my 8s up to 2k and the sq is decent enough up high and its worth it to have the headroom down low. The system really impresses anywhere below 1.5k hz. As well its nice to have the ability to cross lower between the midbass and sub. Subs can have a very flavored response curve from the back on the high notes. Its often advantageous to be able to bring the midbass in to counter a null or maybe a frequency where the sub doesnt sound as good.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

openglcg said:


> A 6.5 will have less beaming issues up high making the sq better. Anything above 1500hz will sound a bit worse on an 8. But 6.5s start to beam around 2k and many people use them above that. In general you can have some beaming and still sound ok just know that if your speakers are not on axis it is an sq concern. That said, I use my 8s up to 2k and the sq is decent enough up high and its worth it to have the headroom down low. The system really impresses anywhere below 1.5k hz. As well its nice to have the ability to cross lower between the midbass and sub. Subs can have a very flavored response curve from the back on the high notes. Its often advantageous to be able to bring the midbass in to counter a null or maybe a frequency where the sub doesnt sound as good.


OP is asking about a 3-way setup, assuming they mean a 3-way front stage, then beaming wouldn't be an issue, since the midrange will be playing low enough that even an 8" won't beam.


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## therapture (Jan 31, 2013)

6.5 to an 8 is BIG difference. Same thing for a 6x9.

That being said make sure you have something to pick up the gap so beaming isn't a problem. I ran my 6.5's at 1500hz and now my 6x9's at 1200hz because my 2" wideband can get down there and match up.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

tjframe said:


> Let's say you have an active 3 way front sound stage with properly built midbass kicks or door configurations.
> 
> If one can fit in an 8 inch driver in a space, how noticeable is that over a smaller 6.5", especially if you have a sub. For discussion purposes, I'm imagining a system where there subs run up to 70 or 80hz or so, and the midbass spans from there up to 300-500hz before the dedicated mids take over.


^^^^ This..... beaming will be far from an issue. OP has already stated in a 3-way. 

The only issue is picking the right 8". Just because it's bigger doesn't mean it's better. One of the last 8" I used was nowhere near as good in a door as I have now and they cost more with even more xmax. Just totally wrong for the application. 

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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

The issue I am running into with my decision between an 8" or a 6.5"~7" driver is the general lack of 8" drivers available with shallowish mounting depth. 

Something like an RS225 is a great driver for a door, but 3.75" of depth is just a TON in my situation. Most other raw drivers have specs that are not particularly conclusive to door mounting and very few car audio manufactures make reasonably priced 8" drivers (something like an Audison AP8 saves me an inch of depth, but the performance seems to barely meet, let alone exceed, the higher end 7" drivers that occupy the same price point.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

alachua said:


> The issue I am running into with my decision between an 8" or a 6.5"~7" driver is the general lack of 8" drivers available with shallowish mounting depth.
> 
> 
> 
> Something like an RS225 is a great driver for a door, but 3.75" of depth is just a TON in my situation. Most other raw drivers have specs that are not particularly conclusive to door mounting and very few car audio manufactures make reasonably priced 8" drivers (something like an Audison AP8 saves me an inch of depth, but the performance seems to barely meet, let alone exceed, the higher end 7" drivers that occupy the same price point.




Keep in mind you will probably want to build a baffle that will bring the speaker as close to the door panel as possible then seal that gap with ccf so the "sound gets forced into the car" rather than inside the door panel itself. In my car I'm using 1" thick HDPE


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## openglcg (Jun 23, 2018)

sb acoustics 8" SB23NRXS45-4. Tons of headroom. I have mine crossed at 74hz right now and they keep up with my 15 on 2000+ watts. I haven't pushed them to find their limit because they are already loud enough.


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