# 2006 F150 KR S'crew install



## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Been lurking quite awhile. Thanks for all the great reads and education.

Anyway, a modest install starting on my truck. One layer of RAAMat interior door with one layer of Ensolite on top. 

Next up is 1/4 inch MDF panel to fill the large access hole and 3/4" MDF speaker adapters to hold my 6.5 inch MB quart mid basses for front stage.

Then finish outside door with one layer RAAMat, one layer Ensolite and then the OEM heavy plastic layer on top of that before wiring and reinstalling the door trim.


F150Augs


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Test to see if I got the html correct. Apparently not.

Augs


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## 99IntegraGS (Jan 18, 2007)

TBDAugs said:


> Test to see if I got the html correct. Apparently not.
> 
> Augs


See the little box at the very bottom of the page....

vB code is *On*
Smilies are *On*
code is [B]On[/B]
HTML code is [B]Off[/B]

JD


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

ahh, thanks, my HTML is OFF, is this an administrator function to turn on?

is 'on', let's see if I can post that one.

[img]http://www.f150online.com/galleries/images/9559-13632-191365.jpg

Does it have to be a .gif to use this function?

IlliterateAugs


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

host on on photobucket, copy paste your such as


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

*Re: 2005 F150 KR S'crew install*

Super, thanks! 

So here's my project. I've always wanted a Mcintosh amp and found a mid 90's on ebay for $500 including shipping. An MC420 with an installed equalizer module. Some minor cosmetic damage.










I have a 2005 F150 Supercrew King Ranch. I want it as stealthy as possible to the casual eye, other than boxes under the back seat.

I also want detail and front centered stage and more SQ than SPL on the sub.

I've also been partial to MBQuart's mid basses, old company and new company and a found a packaged 6.5" MBQ reference set with the 1 inch metal dome tweeter and passive crossovers that can adjust tweeter gain, for under $500.

I do think the MBQ tweets are pretty intense, but the 1" round fits perfectly in the OEM tweeter slot, so I'm going to use it and reduce gain by 1.5db first to see if I can still get the high detail without overpowering.

First, I Rammat and Ensolite inside and out, fore and aft.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

The F150's got great access to the inside wall to add butyl and ensolite.










At the bottom of the door on the inside, do not cover over the drain at the bottom as these are 'wet' doors. Meaning Ford intends them to drain all along the bottom of the doors. You can seal the bottom up about 2/3'rds of the way, but if you seal up over the 1/3 opening that runs the length of your door, then you may wind up creating a fish tank....

Here's the door inside done with closed cell Ensolite. Closed cell is important because, again, these are 'wet' doors....


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Next I make panels to cover the access holes. I'll use 1/4" MDF. I'm hoping that although these are 'wet' doors, that really, the newness of the truck and it's window seals won't be enough to warp the MDF. Also I happen to have a bunch of MDF I want to use up. On hindsight, it proably would have been better to cover the access panel with a polyvinyl board.

Anyhow I start with a cardboard template cut to cover most of the hole. Not trying to make it air tight, just cover the majority of the hole to help level and support the butyl layer I'll add on top.

Here's the cardboard template for the rear doors. The OEM wiring harness for the rear is attached from the inside, so I trim the cardboard to miss the exposed side of the nut retainers that holds that harness. It's opposite the front doors of the F150, where the wiring harnesses are attached from the outside in. That's the rear OEM 5 x 7 which I will retain. I'm interested in front stage, which will run off two channels of the 4 channel amp, so these will be hooked to the HU:


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## fredridge (Jan 17, 2007)

Nice post. Looks good.

What about painting or sealing the MDF to help fight moisture.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Very good points. Something I should have done before installation. 

What I managed to do was reach in and cover the back side with Rammat in an effort to 'water proof. My access to the back was via the 5 x 7 OEM speaker holes. A real knuckle buster. Used up a lot of Goo be gone...

ForgetfulAugs


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

So now I transfer the cardboard pattern to 1/4" MDF and cut it out with a jigsaw










I drill thru holes thru the MDF panel so the machine screws freewheel thru the MDF and grip into the door metal underneath.










Then I attach it to the door. On the F150, there are different levels of the access panel. I found these 4 locations where I attached are all on the same level. Same for the front doors. I'll let the butyl fill in the dips and valleys and seal up where the panel doesn't cover the lower level.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now what I forgot to do was waterproof the MDF...so after the install I went back and reached in via the OEM speaker hole and matted over the backside of the access panel as best I could. Mea culpa. 

Anyhow, next I matted over the panel. 

Several reasons why I matted the rear doors; 1. Until the MBQ's arrived I had disabled my front OEM's to do all the mat work, so I started the rear first to give the OEM rears better sound. Worked great. Also wanted to further sound deaden the cab, so I put as much effort into the rears as the fronts. :










Then a layer of ensolite over the mat on the outside.

Here's the completed rear


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## 99IntegraGS (Jan 18, 2007)

Nice thread. You are inspiring me to get my project off the back burner.  

JD


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Next I make speaker baffles/adaptors for the 6.5" MBQ ref's to fit the 5 x 7 OEM speaker slots.

I'll use 3/4" MDF since I also have a sheet of that laying around....

The MBQ's, like most I guess, have a very good, plasticized paper template.

The MBQ midbass is in the middle and the OEM 5 x 7 on the right.










I first cut out the ID for the midbass so it remains supported by the board while I drill and file to fit the mounting ring. I use the OEM speaker to locate 4 thru holes in order to countersink and bolt the baffle thru the metal door:










Then I file to fit the mounting ring:


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Thanks JD...love this stuff since it justifies for the wife why I have all these yellow and black power tools...

get busy man!

DeWaltaugs


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Next I cut out the baffle by jig saw, freehand. Doesn't need to be perfectly round since it's hidden, but needs to be enough diameter to contain the mounting ring and overlap the upper and lower edges of the oval OEM slot so there's enough meat to get the thru holes into the 4 OEM holes I've chosen.










The Mounting ring I attach to the MDF with a bead of silicon underneath sort of as a gasket, and then 6 rough thread machine screws gently torqued to a 4 on my screw gun setting. Just dont' trust MDF to hold a thread too well:


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Next I attach the baffle to the door. I use 4 machine screw thru bolts, countersunk, with locking nuts on the backside. I'm careful to cover the OEM 5 x 7 with enough butyl and ensolite to leave a full gasket between the baffle and the door to squeeze down against. Then I'll trim out the inside after I've torqued down the bolts.










The 12 ga speaker wire coming out is for the amp to the crossover.

Here's the whole front door now with the midbass installed.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

The 2004+ F150 front's have a heavy gauge vapor barrier that you have to remove before doing this. It's easy to take off whole if you are careful and you can reattach. So I thought I'd reattach the vapor barrier on the driver's side over the RAAMat/Ensolite layer to see if acoustically I could tell a difference between it and the passenger front door with out it.










So far I haven't 'heard' any difference. Would maybe need instruments to tell.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Since I have extra butyl and ensolite, might as well continue soundproofing.

The Backseat in the F150 S'crew's a little tricky to get off, but there's a lot of go by's out there on the web. There is lot's of room at the bottom to place amps, but since I like access to my amp, and I've only the one, I won't mount here, just soundproof:

Before











After


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

After reading through a ton of reviews and tutorials here, I was considering trying to install a large format tweeter, but then realized that to do so would move me off my stealth objective. Since I have a high freq hearing loss anyway, I'm not sure my ears would clue to any additional detail more esoteric tweeters could provide.

So since under the speaker grill in the fronts, and just above the elbow in height, are tweeter holes for the F150 'audiophile' option, I used the 1 inch titanium dome MDQ tweeter.

I already know from past experience it's pretty intense, so I'll start the set up by reducing the db 1.5 at the passive xover.

To accomodate the 6.5" MDQ plus mounting ring, plus baffle, plus butyl/ensolite gasket requires I trim away almost all of the OEM speaker cowling on the outside trim. But it's all hidden once the speaker grill is installed and looks totally OEM. There's a full 1/4 inch between the trim'd speaker enclosure and the speaker surround itself. I used a DeWalt rotozip with a trim bit installed and did it by hand, then filed the flashing off.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now it's time to run wires.

I'll run the power wire for the ampdown the driver's side, which already has power takeoff's for the sliding rear window. The RCA's from the AVIC-N3 HU and all the amp to passive xover wires will go bundled together on the passenger side. There's lot's of room in the wiring channels underneath the sills to run wiring in the F150 screw.

The MC420's a damn good amp IMHO, .005% THD thru it's entire range and someone previously added the equalizer module to boost or flatten gain around 45 hz and 150 hz. It's 4 channel at 50 watts, configurable in 2,3,and 4 ohm and stable into a 2 ohm driver. I'll run it in 3 channel mode bridging 3 and 4 for this sub and box, which fit's under the rear left passenger seat. It's the Image Dynamics, 10" dual coil 4 ohm. I'll configure the sub in parallel and run it off the bridged channels of the 4 x 50 MC420.










Since we're talking one 'small' amp with reasonable loads, I decided I could get by running an 8 gauge power wire with a 60 amp fuse.

The 8 gauge ring terminal fits neatly under the OEM battery leads










and the fuse block I mounted on the wire run channel against the upper fire wall trim piece thus










I need to get some more split loom to cover over the exposed blue....


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

The 2005 F150 screw has an easy way and a hard way to run wiring into and thru the firewall.

On the passenger side behind the battery and down the firewall is where the lions share of wiring goes thru a grommet to the fuse box. I've actually seen some installations of 1/0 gage thru here, but not without a lot of cussing and waterproofing to seal it up. 

On the driver's side there's a 2 inch diameter rubber grommet sealing a pass thru hole just behind the gas pedal.

Here it is with the rubber cover removed. I'll punch an interference fit diameter in the rubber to pass the 8 gauge.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Next I'll power up the system and play my music of choice to ensure I've got everything wired correctly.

For a ground I used the screw that held the jack, and it's hole. I'm hoping the ground potential is very close to the battery ground potential so I don't have to do anything complex inre grounding issues.

Also I suspect I've got an easier chance of a noisless install because I'm using a Mcintosh amp, and I'm not pushing a lot of amperage and power level's around.

Tower of Power, 'What Is Hip,' and Earth, Wind and Fire. 'Fantasy' are my tuning choices,

'What is Hip' because I want to see the seperation in the bass notes in the sub and the brass section mid's and I want to play with the Mc equalizer modules to level the subs and tweak for the interior so's the sub's don't overpower the midbass....

and 'Fantasy' to see if I got the interplay with the tweets reduced gain and also test sound stage location since it has more upper freqs and broader range than What is Hip.

70's music of course because, well, like Pavlov's dog, it gives me an instant buzz for some behavioral reason or another....


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now that I'm satisfied I didn't screw anything up...and I did a little...I'm ready to neaten up.

Had the RCA's mixed up and what I thought was the full out coming to the AMP's channel 1 and 2 was actually the Sub amp RCA from the HU. Turns' out the 6.5" MBQ doesn't articulate well any of those low notes....

so switched them.

The HU is an AVIC-N3. I wanted nav, iPod, XM and active equalization in a stealth package. With it's motorized screen and single din envelope, the non-descript look of the AVIC N3 fit's the bill, and I got it on sale off an internet site for around $1400, no tax or shipping. I thought it was a steal personally.

Active equalization includes adjusting HPF, LPF crossovers frequencies and q for Sub, mid and high freqs, and for each category there are at least 3 different target frequencies to play with. The Q setting offers 4 different choices.

The Sub has the usually LPF crossovers and gain control. Programmed are the usual pre-programmed choices or 'Custom.' The EQ programs are retained against each different source.

Really like this HU although it's a bit spendy and I didn't want to go with a dedicted EQ box.

Behind the center console of the F150 Screw is enough room to hide a small beer frigde, and the OEM comes out with up front screws. I guess this is the new standard vs the old days when you had to have special shim tools to release the side clips holding radios in their enclosures. Nice touch.

So along with the HU I have it's hideaway box including 10 gig drive, an iPod box, a XM tuner box, and an RCA/power box for my rear view camera. Still plenty of room in there.

PioneerAugs


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now I need a box to hold the amp.

I decided to make a wedding cake box for it out of a 3/4" MDF base with 1/4" MDF partial sides, then a partial lid out of 1/4 inch MDF to gfit over it.

I just need to cover enough to protect and 'hide' the mechanics, but I don't want to cover the fan side, which is aft, and I want to be able to get to the controls, which are topside under the lifting seat.

I have 15 3/4" hard space between the beams of the starboard side seat stanchions, so I calculated my cake box top would fit seamlessly at 15 1/2" long.

So dimensions were computed backwards from that to start cutting pieces.

First the base and sides










Which I then glue and clamp. Good thing about MDF is it glues quite well. I also added some finish tacks with my nailer.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Then I cut the base box partial top. I used scrap since this piece will be covered up. It's there to provide a little more strength to the top of the box since it does extend about an inch past the seat. 

Just more of a kick plate than anything else.










It's over this assembly that I will slide the cake box top.

The dimensions of the sides and top were chosen to allow complete access to the Mcintosh removeable glass plate to access the controls. The amp was oriented so the power and ground are inboard towards the port side where the 8 ga power comes in. This leaves all the RCA and speaker port ins and outs on the outboard side away from the power lines. 

The box side panels come only as far as the connectors so they can be accessed easily once rthe box top is removed.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now I have to transfer the location of the jack retaing bolt thru holes to the 3/4" MDF box base. I use a pattern board of the same thickness material, squared off, to do this.

Here I've located the pattern board as far back as it can go and hard against the outboard stanchion. This way I mark the 'Y' axis of the inboard thru hole on the board










Then I push the pattern board hard to the opposite stanchion and forward enough to uncover the inboard hole. I then mark it's 'X' axis on the pattern board. The pattern board needs to be short enough that you can slide it back and forth and uncover the holes in order to use the same board to locate both holes.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Then I repeat similar for the outboard hole, which is on a different XY coordinate than the inboard hole.

Now I use a right angle to crosshair the locations and drill a very small centerpoint hole. 










Now I transfer the pattern board to the amp box base board by aligning there outboard edges and back edges. The base board is 1/4" a side less than the absolute inside dimension of the stanchions, so I align the back edge of the pattern board with the back edge of the base, and offset inwards about 1/4 inch, then I drill a shallow, small hole, thru the pattern board, to locate the appropriate spot for the thru hole.










Once done you can visually check to see if you got the correct hole transferred to the correct side


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now I thru drill the box base board with the smallest bit diameter that will pass an allen key or small screwdriver. The idea here is to drill just enough to test fit the board, so if you are a little off, you can use the full dimension to adjust your hole location.

In this case the pattern board and transfer was spot on.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

More tomorrow. Tee time!

ClubcorpAugs


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Sweet cup and saucer.




nice work too


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Hah! Thanks, the wife's favorite. I was trying to give a sense about how long it took me to finish the amp box...as in, one cup of coffee with biscoti.

Javaugs


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

On the 2005+ F150 S'crews the thru bolts that hold the jack in are 8mm x 1.25.

Since it's easier for me to install the amp ground then box, then amp from the bottom up, I need to do better math to be sure the very top, countersunk locking bolt is below plane on the amp box base so it doesn't contact the underside of the amp.

The S'crew has a 1/2" attached nut underneath the bed to accept the jack locking bolt. So 1/2" of attached nut plus 1/4 inch of thru bed plus 1/4 inch of carpet/felt plus 3/4" MDF runners under the box, plus 3/4" MDF box base itself. 2.5"

A trip to Home Depot found the nearest thing in 8 x 1.25 without having to cut the bolt, was a 60mm length. I'll adjust the counter sink to ensure enough threads to hold the base down reliably.

The outboard thru hole is easy from the bottom up, but the inboard hole contacts the Ford's starboard side boxed beam at that 60mm length. I found though that I could insert a screwdriver into the thru bolt and bend it gently out enough to get a box end wrench on. Then once it was screwed up in to the cab enough to clear the beam underneath, I just bent it back straight from topside.

Here's the ground assembled on the inboard post










The ground strap is attached with a ring terminal underneath a washer, locking washer and nut. 

I needed to talk the wife into tightening down the topside bolt while I held fast the thru bolt head underneath the truck. Couldn't reach both myself.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Now that I've got the 2, 8 x 1.25 60 mm bolts thru from the bottom and the ground strap attached, I can trial fit the box base. On top of the ground nut and washer holding fast each thru bolt is an inverted locking nut to serve as a base for the box to tighten against. I adjust these to ensure contact with the box bottom when I use my weight to depress the carpet/felt










I can't put the kick panel on the top yet as I'll need to install the amp before I do. Not enough room once the base is installed to leverage it in if the kick top is one.

So first I countersink the threads now I know they are correctly located.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

I decided to try and use a Rustoleum textured paint vs. OEM carpet to see how it looks, so I sprayed the box, attached the amp and glued the top kick plate on.










Next I'll make the 'Cake Box' top to fit over this, again all from 1/4" MDF.

The cake box top means a top with a center open that you can see thru. In this case a half a top that slides over the base box and neaten's it up, but only half so as not to cover the cooling tunnel of the Mcintosh amp located aft. I also have to have two different side lengths of the box. The outboard side is longer to cover the cables and dimensioned to slip behind the stanchion and the inboard cover is shorter so as to butt directly against the forward end of the inboard seat stanchion


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

So here's the amp box with the top on










and since I didn't care much for the Rustoleum textured paint trial on the box base, I'm going to find me a carpet match for the OEM carpet and carpet this so it matches the look of the carpeted sub box.

Guess next step to be truly considered a DIY'er here by some is to go rip out the mid basses from my home audio B and W's and replace the MB Quart's with those.

Not sure the wife's gonna buy that...

CarpenterAugs


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

Thanks for the install log. Any more updates and or pics?

I have a question for you though. Do you think there would be enough room to mount an 8" midbass in the door in the stock location? I know you would need a baffle but It's hard to tell if there's enough room or not.

Also I have seen several installs where amps are mounted behind the back seat on the cab wall in trucks. How much room is back there?

I am getting ready to pick up an '07 F150 and am trying to figure out what I can and can't do once I get it. I figure if I can get 8's in the doors I could go with the mids and tweets in the kicks.

Thanks!


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

I'm not sure you could fit an 8 inch mid bass in the door even using a baffle, without the front of the speaker extending out into the speaker grill if located in the stock location. I think the top of it may interfere with the bottom of the arm rest.

Here's my install, and you can see with these 6.5" quarts I had to remove most of the plastic baffling from the back of the door just to make clearance for the front of the speaker. This with 3/4" mdf baffles. For sure the speaker drive will fit into the OEM speaker hole, but if you widen the front anymore I believe you'll be into the armrest at top. I haven't read anywhere of anyone putting an 8 inch midbass in the OEM speaker hole and reinstalling the stock grill on top of it.










Also there is room at the bottom of the back wall to hang amps on. I didn't measure this space, but I've seen a number of F150 installs with considerable wattage and fuse blocks hung on the back wall at the bottom on MDF Amp bases.

Enjoy your new truck!

S'crewAugs


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## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

I just bought a new 2007 F-150 Supercab and would like to do similar to mine. I actually have MB Quart Q-216's to put back in, and would like to see if you have the patterns you made. I live here in Arlington off Little Rd and 20 and could meet you at any time. I also have a Mustang project going you might be interested in. Lets compare notes.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

hey Foosman, congrats on the KR S'crew!

I used the paper patterns that came with the MB Quarts and threw them away a long time ago.

I'm not certain but I've heard you can get on line at MBQ and download the appropriate pattern for the Quart you are using as a pdf.

Love the sound in my s'crew from the install, and even though I originally set the MB titanium tweets up with -2db, as advice from the site said they'd be too harsh otherwise, I've wound up returning the tweets to full on at the crossovers.

The stock tweet location is high enough up to get some good separation, and having a hi freg hearing loss, I really feel debiting the tweets up front is not necessary.

TinitusAugs


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## The Weez (Apr 15, 2008)

Bringing back an old thread...

How does it sound with the speakers in the stock locations?

I have an 06 F150 Supercab and am in the process of selecting front speakers to be driven by a 4x80 Arc Audio amp. I was thinking kick panels, and perhaps midbass drivers in the doors. However I'm not sure if the tall bench seats and relateively forward seating position lends itself to a kick panel install. 

I'm not terribly worried about being stealth with the front speakers. 

I too am putting a 10" image dynamics sub under the rear seat.

Any links to other F150 installs is appreciated!


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

I love the sound and separation from the stock locations and the sub under the left rear seat. At first I thought the tweeter stock locations would be problematic, paricularly with my hi freq hearing loss, but they are actually pretty high up. I did remove the -1.5 db passive crossover jumper in order to get more tweet...

So I do get good imaging. I haven't any 'if I had to do it over again' misgivings on anything on the install.

KingRanchAugs


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## pikers (Oct 21, 2007)

TBDAugs said:


> Next I make panels to cover the access holes. I'll use 1/4" MDF. I'm hoping that although these are 'wet' doors, that really, the newness of the truck and it's window seals won't be enough to warp the MDF. Also I happen to have a bunch of MDF I want to use up. On hindsight, it proably would have been better to cover the access panel with a polyvinyl board.
> 
> *PRO TIP (LOL)*
> 
> Cheap cutting boards from the dollar store FTW in situations like these.


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## The Weez (Apr 15, 2008)

TBDAugs said:


> I love the sound and separation from the stock locations and the sub under the left rear seat. At first I thought the tweeter stock locations would be problematic, paricularly with my hi freq hearing loss, but they are actually pretty high up. I did remove the -1.5 db passive crossover jumper in order to get more tweet...
> 
> So I do get good imaging. I haven't any 'if I had to do it over again' misgivings on anything on the install.
> 
> KingRanchAugs


Hmm, that's promising to hear.

I was sitting in my truck last night looking at all the places I could put speakers. The more I look at the kicks the more I realize the driver's side would be pretty much impossible to do. I can barely see anything on that kick, forward of the brake release handle. And the passenger side is about a mile away, so I dont' see that putting them in the kicks will help much (if at all) as far as putting them equal distances from my ears.

I might start my own thread to see if any other F150 owners have tackled this problem.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

you can get kicks in there, just a little tight


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## The Weez (Apr 15, 2008)

What year truck is that? Where is the brake release? Mine is located IN that pod you show, and when I look at that location the brake pedal itself would be between my ears and the speakers.  In fact, I think if I had them located that far forward on the kick panel the dash itself would interfere. I would have to put the speakers right where the brake release is, and they'd be pointing mostly up. (note that I'm 6'4", so my ears are way up near the roof)


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

its an f250, but realistically in either truck you sit so far forward and high, my experience has been in 2 way, do the mid in the door and tweet in sail panel, or make a pillar pod


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## The Weez (Apr 15, 2008)

Sorry to bump another old thread, but my budget has been turned back on for my 06 F150 Screw project. How do you feel now 8mo later about the installation in the stock locations? I'm thinking about going that route for simplicity sake since I can't find anybody in town that I trust to do custom work.


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## SQCherokee (Mar 5, 2008)

i like that the dishes match the tools


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

I too have an F150 (08) and would be interested in any updated thoughts on this install. Links to other F150 installs are very appreciated.

Mine is going under the knife soon.... I have a three amp set up, and three ways in the front....which is different than your 2 way set up. But then, I knew I was asking for trouble purchasing the 3 ways. I will just have to figure it out.

My McIntosh amps will go behind the rear seat along with a RF 3sixty.2 SP/EQ.

I hope to hear more soon....


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## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

I love the Dyn Scan kick. Looks great


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Well, okay. Still love the set up but my old MMC 420 amp blew two channels so I sent it back to McIntosh to get it fixed and for Christmas the wife bought me a monoblock MMC201M with the very cool blue power meter.

So I'll remove the fiber board box and place the mono amp where the 4 channel was (which I had in three way, one each for each front crossover, and two channels crossed to drive the sub) so that nice blue glow shows up under the rear passenger seat and when the older MMC 420 comes back from McIntosh I'll mount it on the back behind the rear seat to drive the front crossovers.

So now I'll drive the IQ dual cone sub with the McIntosh 300 amp monoblock and I'll cross each of the 4 channels of the MMC 420 to drive the front crossovers with 100 amps each.

I think acutally the best thing I did for this truck was all the soundproofing, and the door treatments. I probably could have gone with a nicer speaker set than the MB Quarts, but I believe what I did to the doors made them a better speaker than they are.

F150Augs


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## Jwool15 (Dec 3, 2008)

looks good man nice clean install. I'm about to cram two new mags under the back seat of my 05 lariat


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Decent dude, good luck with that and post some pics!

IQAugs


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