# Peal n Seal for Sound Dampening ?



## cpham9006 (Mar 16, 2011)

No good ? Im too broke for brand new sound dampening. They say Peal n Seal gives off a AWFUL smell when it gets really hot...

True ?


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## anthonyott99 (Mar 21, 2011)

Im on a budget also and all i use is peel and seal and ive always had good luck with it and there is a little smell at first but nothing thats goin to drive you out of the car ! I would suggest it to anyone on a budget.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Use 25% of what you would normally wan to use and get it from sounddeadenershowdown.

Presto......now you have a proper car product used in an effective manner that is also affordable.

"Win, win, win."


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Several people on some neon forums (some of the cheapest people out there), used peal n seal, and reported that in the summer, the adhesive melted and the stuff fell off of overhead and vertical surfaces.

You also need 2-3 times as much to equal a good deadener.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Several people on some neon forums (some of the cheapest people out there), used peal n seal, and reported that in the summer, the adhesive melted and the stuff fell off of overhead and vertical surfaces.
> 
> You also need 2-3 times as much to equal a good deadener.


Also the actual glue is very important part of the product, not only because of what you mention that is needs to stay on but it actually make a difference in how the product performs. 

That then bring the issue of once you use a cheap product, the only way to effectively replace it with another product is by removing all trace of the first product. Good luck with that. A CLD floating on a thin layer of crap adhesive is a waste of material.


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## anthonyott99 (Mar 21, 2011)

All i can say is from personal experience, and i have used P&S on my car and most of it has been on for at least a year and a lot of it over 2 years and you cant hardly even get your fingernail under the edges to try to get it off, and before i used it i compared to some free samples i had received of other more expensive products and the P&S is just as thick or thicker than those. And as far as smell, after like a day or two i never smelled it again, even in the southern oklahoma heat. So i guess all i can say is it worked good for me and its cheap enough , got mine for 16 bucks a roll, that you can try some for yourself before spending the big dollars !!!


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Peal n seal is as good as the stock deadening in a neon. Its thick, but its lightweight, low quality glue, and asphalt based. Theres no rubber content in it, and it deadens only by weight added.

It is better then nothing. But you cant put good deadener over the top of it. Meaning, if you try it, then decide you want something better, you have to heat gun and scrape all the old stuff out. If you want to know how hard that is, check out my project log.


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## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

think of all the weight you're adding with that extra coverage of peal and seal

then think that you could use 75% less material to do the job if you used a thick foil backed butyl CLD product 

less product required. That means less weight, less effort. no brainer IMO


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Tried it once, just to see that it was like.

I wouldn't use that stuff again for sound dampening if they were giving it away. No matter how much it costs, it isn't very effective for that purpose.


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## The A Train (Jun 26, 2007)

after plenty of research and a recent install, i can say that i would highly recommend sound deadener showdown's cld tiles. first off peal and seal is asphalt based and not butyl. secondly, you only need to cover 25% of the surface area in order to kill resonances. spend the majority of your time and effort on the outter shell. the interior portion (where the access holes are) do not need near as much deadening. this is because there are many contours and hardly no flat areas. contouring adds strength and rigidity so theres no need for massive amounts of deadener. i did my first deadener install on my civic coupe (big, cheap, noisy, doors) this past weekend using both sds cld tiles and the original dynomat. the cld tiles stuck to the metal as soon as it touched it, it was super sticky and very thick foil. the dynomat original was not even close. but i had it available so i used it. the dynomat did take a little bit more effort to get it to adhere though. after it was all finished, i probly used 12-14 of the 6X10 cld tiles and maybe 2sqft of the dynomat on both of my doors. i made sure to fully seal the access holes well and i couldnt be any happier. anymore deadener would be overkill and a total waste of time and money. i think peal and seal is ~$15 or so here locally. if you are planning on buying 2 or 3 rolls, you are better off buying the good stuff to begin with! save yourself the headache.


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## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

by the way. just an aside...

It's *PEEL* and Seal

Peal is like a peal of laughter...


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Just how low your budget should be for you not to afford at least a box of Raammat BXT2? A box with 37ft^3 is sold for less than $100. You can probably have that plus a matching amount of ensolite shipped to you for around $150. It's probably more than what an average install needs.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

bd5034 said:


> by the way. just an aside...
> 
> It's *PEEL* and Seal
> 
> Peal is like a peal of laughter...


I learn something new every day on this forum..


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## The A Train (Jun 26, 2007)

ZAKOH said:


> Just how low your budget should be for you not to afford at least a box of Raammat BXT2? A box with 37ft^3 is sold for less than $100. You can probably have that plus a matching amount of ensolite shipped to you for around $150. It's probably more than what an average install needs.


you can get 20 cld tiles for $49+shipping and that would be PLENTY for the doors.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

I used Peal N' Seal once as a deadener. I had to use entirely too much for it to be semi effective AND my car smelled like asphalt for MONTHS. I'd never use that cheap crap again!

Then again, some lessons are best learned the hard way! If one has their heart set on "saving" money by using a roofing product for an unintended use, more power to you! Good luck if you live in an area that routinely sees above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I used the stuff at Menards and didn't smell anything, it does not smell much at all. I have a roll here at room temp can hardly smell it. It is Protecto Wrap brand however it is vinyl coated not foil and its thin, its repair tape for roofing. I would test this stuff before you use it and especially for a car roof or something though most noise comes from below a car. This stuff is hard to get off it sticks good, but it will peel off and stays in one piece mostly. It sure acts like butyl but does not say. It seems to be sticky like butyl I don't see any type of glue on it. It was 6.50 for 4"x10', cheaper per foot for larger rolls. But all I used it for mostly was around my IB baffle and to cover holes in the structure like into the quarter panel, only thing I covered back there was the wheel wells. The trunk floor had some thick factory stuff on it already. I did try a piece on the trunk lid to test and the end came loose, I don't know if I didn't clean it good or what, but the rest stayed there. Since I don't get noise through the subs I don't care much about the trunk, it slowed down the wheel well noise I could hear. Now I have some free ragwool to try next time I have it apart I'll put some of that in. Its just like the factory used in a lot of older cars. But I'm not that worried about this car being super quiet either.

What really made my car stink for a while was the scented spray glue I used on the amp rack carpet, it was terrible.


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## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

sqshoestring said:


> What really made my car stink for a while was the scented spray glue I used on the amp rack carpet, it was terrible.


we should start a thread for the worst smelling stuff used for audio purposes. 

I've got a couple good ones in mind.


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## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

bbotelhoHI said:


> ^ that should be cut/pasted on here as a sticky. crediting the owner and original post, that is.


x2. That was a great read.


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## nick650 (Feb 7, 2011)

Its your CAR! Why cheap out??? You either have the money for Raamat or you don't, that simple.


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## anthonyott99 (Mar 21, 2011)

I've used Raamat, Second Skin, Dynamat, Dynamat extreme, Hushmat, Fatmat, and Peel & Seal. Guess im just getting a better product off of a different assembly line here in the south because speaking from my experience Peel & Seal was just as good or even better sometimes than all the others, but thats just me. All i can say is just try the different ones, everybody has different tastes !!!


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Again, it has nothing to do with preference. Put peel n seal to a heat test, vs any high quality damper and it will lose. Put it to a vibration test, and it will lose. Its quantifiably a worse product.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

nick650 said:


> Its your CAR! Why cheap out??? You either have the money for Raamat or you don't, that simple.


The equipment I can take out, the deadening I can't. I'm so sick of swapping cars and equipment. It depends on the car, this one is a part time car and I just don't care that much. Sure I'll grab a roll of P&S at the hardware chain and slap it on while installing, just not going to order up big cash for the stuff. Now if I actually get the system working pretty well I might reconsider, and it would be different if this were a car I knew I would keep for a while or did a lot of hours in.


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