# 2016 Silverado door chime



## Lt1z3233 (Aug 21, 2015)

Hello, i'm going to be installing a set of comps, amp and a processor into my truck and am unsure how to approach the door chime issue. It's a 2016 silverado mylink/non bose. I'm installing Audiofrog G10/G60's in stock locations (door/dash), and a Helix P SIX DSP. I had planned to tap the rear speakers for signal eliminating the chime, but I realized the front speakers were also used for nav and onstar. Any ideas on where I can hide a separate speaker to retain this?


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

I have a 2014 similar to yours and here is what I found.

A couple options for you,
I set my amps at max volume but then use the 360.3's remote to turn down its master volume so the chimes weren't crazy loud. It took three clicks down. I still only turn up the volume to about 50% at 75 mph with all windows open and it is blaring at me. If I need the extra volume I can turn the 360 back up.

There is a company that will reprogram your HU for a price and give you options to eliminate the chimes all together.



The most annoying chime was the seat belt chime when your first get in as it is the loudest. I found by buckling my seat belt before I put the key in the ignition eliminates that chime. Blinkers and all others aren't nearly as loud. 

The door ajar chime is the second most annoying so I just don't leave my door open with the key in and engine off.


I tapped all wires front and rear so I could still have fade/bal ability at the HU. 

You would need to leave a front left speaker hooked up and I would mount that under the dash somewhere by the steering, or leave it in the factory location in the top of the dash if you don't need that spot. There is a lot of room under that dash piece to mount a tweeter if that is your plan.


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## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

jdunk54nl said:


> There is a company that will reprogram your HU for a price and give you options to eliminate the chimes all together.



Do you know the name of the company? I have seen it mentioned in another thread that the H/U can be programmed so that it will give a direct audio signal output instead of the MOSTbus. When I find that thread I'll post it. Would be awesome to get pull an audio signal straight from the headunit and not have have to jack with the OEM amp.

About the chime volume, not sure of the how/why but ever since I installed he JL FIX 82 my chimes are no longer blaring. The are normal volume now.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

I have a 2015 Chevy Colorado. I tapped into the front speakers only and it tamed the chimes down. I originally had all 4 speaker level outs tapped into my dsp and it was way too loud. If the Silverado is like the Colorado, the front speaker level outs should be full range.


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## strohw (Jan 27, 2016)

You can use this item to retain all chimes and beeps when tapping into something besides front. I think it even does blinkers but am unsure of that.

Metra Online


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## chaparro78 (Apr 15, 2011)

Lt1z3233 said:


> Hello, i'm going to be installing a set of comps, amp and a processor into my truck and am unsure how to approach the door chime issue. It's a 2016 silverado mylink/non bose. I'm installing Audiofrog G10/G60's in stock locations (door/dash), and a Helix P SIX DSP. I had planned to tap the rear speakers for signal eliminating the chime, but I realized the front speakers were also used for nav and onstar. Any ideas on where I can hide a separate speaker to retain this?


I have a 2014 Sierra Denali with Bose, I am not sure if it is the same with non-Bose systems but in my truck and all other 2014+ Bose trucks I have been in, the chimes are only in the driver's dash speaker. 

When I replaced the Bose speakers and added Focal components, JL Amp, JL Sub, and the Fix82 processor, I took the outputs from the Bose Amp that went to the front and rear doors and didn't tap the dash speakers. My chimes are good to go, no amplification. 

Of course if the chimes come out of the door speakers in the non-Bose, this would not work.


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