# 95 k1500 regular cab _ 1st time SQ install



## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

I'll start by saying I've been lurking here for quite a while, and soaked up as much as I could before starting my first SQ install 

I've been playing with car audio for years, but never really got serious about it. My experience is basically limited to throwing too big, or too many, sub woofers in a trunk. Needless to say... I'm a bass head!  

I recently purchased some pretty decent speakers for the house (Axiom M22 V3), and was blown away at what a difference quality speakers can make. I think I'm making the transition from "bass head" to "audiophile" as I get older  Anyway, those Axiom's really gave me the desire to change my approach to car audio... time to get a little more serious about SQ!

I'm on a little bit of a budget, which explains the choices in equipment:

1995 K1500 regular/standard cab

Head Unit: Alpine 7894 (I've had this thing for years) Acquired through a trade - I fixed a fiberglass front bumper cover, and was paid with the HU 

DSP: MiniDSP 2x8

Amps: 
PPI Black Ice 340.4 (mids and tweets)
PPI Black Ice 800.4 (mid bass and sub)

Front stage (3-way):
Tweets: 3/4" Dayton ND20FA-6
Mids: still not sure what to use? - Infinity Beta 4 (old school!); or Dayton RS75-4; or Tang Band W3-881SI
Mid Bass: Image Dynamics CTX65cs

Sub: IDQ10v3 (either .9cuft sealed or 4th order b-pass)

The initial plan:
Center console sub
Mid Bass in the stock door location
Mids in the kicks
tweeters: either in the kicks with the mids, or in the A-Pillars 

I do have some questions I'd like to ask...
The first is recommendations on the mid bass. Which of the 3 listed above would you recommend? 
The second is, which enclosure would you recommend for the sub? sealed or 4th order b-pass?


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

I'll post pics of what I have done so far as soon as I reach 5 posts 

So far, I've done 'the big 3', Eastwood sound deadener, and welded up an amp rack


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## epatmd (Mar 4, 2010)

sorry for the delay. We're having a meeting to decide if you can be trusted, you know,,,,an spl wolf in SQ clothing,...we'll get back to you....


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

epatmd said:


> sorry for the delay. We're having a meeting to decide if you can be trusted, you know,,,,an spl wolf in SQ clothing,...we'll get back to you....


you have good reason to worry... My last project was a 21" sub in a 1990 VW Golf 

5 weeks after I restored the car, it was totaled (someone in a Dodge Ram lost control, came into my lane, and hit me head-on). Made me reconsider putting that kind of time into a car again... Takes a couple seconds to ruin months/years worth of work


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

here's what I'm starting with:
Seats are out of a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

13" wide space between the seats for the center console sub:












HDPE (cutting board) 6.5" baffles in the doors (gap between the baffle and the door will be addressed later):












Big 3 with 0/1ga:












sound deadening:







































Amps:












Amp Rack:


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

I have the amp rack installed, and some wiring done, but my camera battery died 

next step: build an enclosure for the minDSP 2x8. It's going under the seat, so it might not be anything pretty/fancy. I'm really hoping I don't have any noise issues with the 2x8. It seems to be hit or miss from the research I've done - some people get a lot of noise, others don't?


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

amps mounted and power/grounds ran:


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

quick-and-dirty case for the MiniDSP 2x8:

Papermate pen chopped up for stand-offs:



















Lexan used for the case:


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

Old school Alpine 7894 installed:


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

One thing I never mentioned, is that I'd like to have a factory look when complete. I'm going to make a 'cover' for the amps, so that they're covered completely (I'll add fans if needed for potential heat issues). I don't mind adding 3/4" tweets to the pillars, but I'm almost certain I DON'T want to add 4" mids up there. I'm going to try really hard to make the mids sound good in the kicks. To be honest, I hope the tweets sound good down there too, as I'd prefer to put them in the kicks rather than the pillars (mainly because it's less work, and maintains the factory appearance). I have a feeling my legs are going to block A LOT of the sound from the mids and tweets in the kicks. 

When I get my RCA's in the mail, I can get everything connected, and then start playing with speaker locations. I'm anxious to see how the mids and tweets sound in the kicks vs the pillars. Also, I have an old 1.0cf enclosure that I can slap the IDQ10 in and see if it sounds better forward or down firing in the center console location.

I still have a lot to do, now that I think about it. It might be a while until I get this done


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

queen_stick said:


> Also, I have an old 1.0cf enclosure that I can slap the IDQ10 in and see if it sounds better forward or down firing in the center console location.
> 
> I still have a lot to do, now that I think about it. It might be a while until I get this done


I've done more truck subwoofer installs than I dare to count. One thing I've learned through experimentation is that I've been unable to top a down-firing sub, particularly in the center console location. Get it a good 1-1/2 to 2 inches off of the floor and bolt the enclosure to the seat frame if possible.

Great start! Keep it up!


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

metanium said:


> I've done more truck subwoofer installs than I dare to count. One thing I've learned through experimentation is that I've been unable to top a down-firing sub, particularly in the center console location. Get it a good 1-1/2 to 2 inches off of the floor and bolt the enclosure to the seat frame if possible.
> 
> Great start! Keep it up!


Thanks! 

This is the first time I'm attempting most of the things involved in this project, so recommendations/tips like that are more than welcome! 

I'm pretty sure I have the room to get 2" of clearance under the sub. Also, my seat mount is is one continuous piece from one side to the other, so I can mount the enclosure to the bars that run across the tranny tunnel, as you recommended.


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## designerfh (Nov 4, 2007)

metanium said:


> I've done more truck subwoofer installs than I dare to count. One thing I've learned through experimentation is that I've been unable to top a down-firing sub, particularly in the center console location. Get it a good 1-1/2 to 2 inches off of the floor and bolt the enclosure to the seat frame if possible.
> 
> Great start! Keep it up!


What he said. Downfire is the way to go.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Really good work so far! Want to see what you have planned for kicks and such and see how this project turns out. 
I had a down firing 10" in the center console of my 06 F250 (JL Stealthbox) and it sounded great. I was more than satisfied with how well it played.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice job on the amp rack.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

Kellyo77 said:


> Really good work so far! Want to see what you have planned for kicks and such and see how this project turns out.
> I had a down firing 10" in the center console of my 06 F250 (JL Stealthbox) and it sounded great. I was more than satisfied with how well it played.


I'm kind of curious about the kicks myself. I don't really have any plans in place, so when I decide to start on them I'll completely wing it. lol!



cnut334 said:


> Nice job on the amp rack.


Thanks! There are a few things I would change if I were to do it again, but overall I'm happy with it. I'd even say it's a bit overbuilt... it's heavy, and rock solid. 


I have a feeling I won't be getting much done on the install this week, or even next week. I'll post an update as soon as I make some progress.


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

i'm not as well versed as some of the others, but i've had a few downfiring enclosures in my trucks and they are hard to beat. one in center of a chevy colorado and one in my Yukon now...i love them. 

i like the amp rack too, i'm going to make something like that when I add amps to my yukon. 

nice work.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

mrmill said:


> i'm not as well versed as some of the others, but i've had a few downfiring enclosures in my trucks and they are hard to beat. one in center of a chevy colorado and one in my Yukon now...i love them.
> 
> i like the amp rack too, i'm going to make something like that when I add amps to my yukon.
> 
> nice work.


Thanks mrmill. Have a link to some pics of the bodied D21?


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

queen_stick said:


> Thanks mrmill. Have a link to some pics of the bodied D21?


Bath Time - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

mrmill said:


> Bath Time - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums


Truck looks good mrmill! Did you do the work your self?


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

Some of it....me and the truck are at odds right now so a full rebuild in in the very near future


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## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

Amp rack & miniDSP case is super clean, Great work. 

I love single cab truck installs, sub'd to see how your frontstage works out


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

mrmill said:


> Some of it....me and the truck are at odds right now so a full rebuild in in the very near future


I feel your pain! Most projects involving that much fabrication/customization are going to drive you insane at times. Last winter I did the body work and paint job on the car pictured below. What a process that was! while I was working on the body, the owner of the car was doing a motor swap (M60) that required significant modification/fabrication. He's still working out the bugs on that thing, and it's been on the road since last summer! It gets frustrating, but you just have to stick with it.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

stockley.rod said:


> Amp rack & miniDSP case is super clean, Great work.
> 
> I love single cab truck installs, sub'd to see how your frontstage works out


Thanks man! 

And back on topic here, I have everything wired up (minus the speakers), and used an old Pioneer sub to verify all 8 channels are working. Everything seems to be OK so far...







Don't worry... the rust on the seat bracket will be addressed at some point in the future... there are a number of things on the truck that need sand blasted, and that guy is on the list


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

finished the front stage (aside from cosmetics). 

I decided on the Infinity Beta 4's for the midrange. The Dayton's and TB's didn't sound bad, but I felt these sounded better in the lower ranges. 

they fit nicely in the kicks:



made some baffles:



sound deadened the area, and sealed/mounted everything:



I've been listening for a couple of days now, and I'm really happy with how it sounds. I know some people will question why I have the tweets and the mids firing straight out (rather than getting closer to 'on-axis'... the main reason is so I can keep the stock look when I make the grills. I also didn't want to intrude on foot space on either side. Like I said, I'm really happy with how it sounds, so they're going to stay this way for the time being . Surprisingly, the sound stage is up at about the top of the dash. I'd be happy if it sounded like it was up at mid-windshield, but I'll take what I have 

I do have my first problem though... from the time of install, all the way up to Sunday, everything was fine (maybe about 2 weeks). Tuesday morning I got in the truck, and there's a serious whine/buzzing (and it's loud!!!) It doesn't change with volume level. I also have alternator whine on top of that. I changed nothing, and after sitting for a day I have the worst buzzing/whine sound I've ever heard in a vehicle... what did I do? what changed?


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## evangojason (Feb 12, 2010)

Nice work so far.


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

Very nice on the kicks...i love that they're not intrusive. 

I'm late but that's a sick paint job on the e30


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

mrmill said:


> Very nice on the kicks...i love that they're not intrusive.
> 
> I'm late but that's a sick paint job on the e30


Appreciate it. 

It was my first time spraying after about 6 years of not touching a gun, so I made some rookie mistakes lol! The owner is very happy with it (that's all that matters), and he gets so many complements on it, it's ridiculous. I'm proud to say that I did that. It's a lot nicer than 90% of the garage paint jobs I've seen. I spent A LOT of time with the longboard, getting it straight. I love seeing a sheet of glass down the sides, like this:



It's a daily driver that gets driven HARD, so it's not perfect, but it's damn nice.

Now that I'm done showing off  sorry 

anyone have any ideas about the crazy ass noise I picked up from nowhere?


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## hurrication (Dec 19, 2011)

Do you have any pics of how you covered your kick panel baffle? 

I am in the planning stages of a stealth install in my '98 extended cab, and I was thinking about mids in the kicks. I didn't realize that there was a recess there.. Is that baffle thin enough to where you could cut a hole in the stock plastic panel and just run some grill cloth over it?


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

hurrication said:


> Do you have any pics of how you covered your kick panel baffle?
> 
> I am in the planning stages of a stealth install in my '98 extended cab, and I was thinking about mids in the kicks. I didn't realize that there was a recess there.. Is that baffle thin enough to where you could cut a hole in the stock plastic panel and just run some grill cloth over it?


That's exactly my plan (cut a hole and use grill cloth). However, the plastic panel steps in towards the speaker (take a look at your panels, and you'll see what I mean about the 'step'), so it's definitely going to need to be trimmed. I was thinking about wrapping the entire panel after I modify them, but I think they would scuff up and the cloth would get pulled by shoes and boots hitting them down near the sill plates. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to do that part yet... as with everything else in this project, I'll figure it out when i get to that point! lol. I'll definitely post pics of whatever I come up with.


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

Either the summer heat put this project on hold or he is still looking for that buzzing noise...

Good job so far and I'm interested to hear what else you have done. My project has been on hold for about a year now so don't feel bad! Anyways, I found a loose RCA on my amp so try LIGHTLY shaking the RCA terminals when the noise is audible and it may just be a small twitch. Or try different signal sources (Phone or MP3 player); before the miniDSP and after. Then start checking grounds and cables from there.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

derek0606 said:


> Either the summer heat put this project on hold or he is still looking for that buzzing noise...
> 
> Good job so far and I'm interested to hear what else you have done. My project has been on hold for about a year now so don't feel bad! Anyways, I found a loose RCA on my amp so try LIGHTLY shaking the RCA terminals when the noise is audible and it may just be a small twitch. Or try different signal sources (Phone or MP3 player); before the miniDSP and after. Then start checking grounds and cables from there.


I haven't been on here for a while...

you're right, the project kinda took a back seat while I'm doing some other things this summer. I just finished up two projects, so I'm gonna start trying to make some grills for the kick panels. I still have a temporary box/center console in right now, so I'm gonna start messing with that as well. 

I did find one rca cable that was causing noise. (at least I thought that was the case). I replaced it, and everything seemed fine. I had my amp gains all the way down until recently, and when I turned them up a bit to start doing some more tuning, I noticed the noise is still there. It's very low/non-existent when the gains are all the way down, but it gets loud as soon as I bump the gains up just a hair. I haven't really tried anything else yet, but I think I'll try moving my ground as a first step, and see what happens.


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

No worries, I know the feeling. Just curious, what is your process for setting gains? I used a DMM; my brother lost a lead to my oscilloscope but it turned out ok. Anyways, I was interested in seeing your time alignment numbers. My install is in a very very small cabin and I'm having problems finalizing the install because I cant seem to get a balanced response. Maybe I'll play with my speaker location when it cools down.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

I didn't follow any procedure for setting gains. I simply had them all the way down for initial setup. With my HU at max volume, it's quite loud while the gains are all the way down. I simply tried to turn up the gains a little to see how much louder it would get... that's when I realized that I still have noise in the system. 

Time alignment... I'm struggling with that as well. I honestly can't provide any advice. I haven't figured it out myself, and I haven't really spent enough time playing with it. The little bit that I did mess with it, I quickly realized that it would be difficult to get it right. 

I think speaker location is a good place to start. In single cab trucks, down in the kicks they're very low, and you're sitting straight above them, which is a bad combination. Unlike a car, where the seating position is much more reclined, which places the kicks much farther forward relative to you ears.


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

queen_stick said:


> I didn't follow any procedure for setting gains. I simply had them all the way down for initial setup. With my HU at max volume, it's quite loud while the gains are all the way down. I simply tried to turn up the gains a little to see how much louder it would get... that's when I realized that I still have noise in the system.
> 
> Time alignment... I'm struggling with that as well. I honestly can't provide any advice. I haven't figured it out myself, and I haven't really spent enough time playing with it. The little bit that I did mess with it, I quickly realized that it would be difficult to get it right.
> 
> I think speaker location is a good place to start. In single cab trucks, down in the kicks they're very low, and you're sitting straight above them, which is a bad combination. Unlike a car, where the seating position is much more reclined, which places the kicks much farther forward relative to you ears.


One thing I would recommend it's set gains at 75% volume. Your radio could be clipping the signal right out of the gate. Use a dmm with speaker still connected and use sine waves in relation to the speaker you are setting. There is a calculation and I would look it up but I'm driving right now. Your noise floor may be effecting your imaging when aligning soaked. I found that there is no right or wrong number for time correction. It will follow the same pattern that the closest speaker is delayed more and the further it will be somewhat less. You have a good setup here and I will detail some methods I have tried time aligning and which I liked best for me.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

derek0606 said:


> One thing I would recommend it's set gains at 75% volume. Your radio could be clipping the signal right out of the gate. Use a dmm with speaker still connected and use sine waves in relation to the speaker you are setting.


Interesting. 

can you expand on the use of the dmm to set the gains? I'm not familiar with that process. 

I'm hoping to get some time this weekend to work on my speaker grills. Tired of seeing it unfinished


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

queen_stick said:


> Interesting.
> 
> can you expand on the use of the dmm to set the gains? I'm not familiar with that process.
> 
> I'm hoping to get some time this weekend to work on my speaker grills. Tired of seeing it unfinished


Sure thing, it's a simple process.

Turn off any equalizer settings before and I usually turn off time alignment but I'm not sure if it matters. Only run the crossover basically.

First you need to calculate the voltage you are looking for. I do this with a spreadsheet I made (I will send it to you); makes math easier. Take the rated power each channel should be getting. For example, I run my Tangband W3-1364SA's on a XS6600, which is rated at 50W @ 4 ohm per channel. Since the W3's are 8ohm speakers, this would draw 25w from the amp. So I multiply 25 x 8 and take the square root from that; equaling 14.14VAC. Now, these run high pass at 500hz. I burn a 2000hz sine wave and begin the process.

Second, determine what 75% of your max volume is. My alpine goes to 35 max volume; multiply that by .75 and I get 26.25. Now I know 26 is a safe max volume.

Third, attach your DMM leads to the + and - of your speaker terminals from the amp. Make sure the DMM is set to Volts AC! Leave the speakers connected so the amp has a load! Turn your gains all the way down (naturally ) and turn your volume to 26 (or whatever yours is). Play the 2000hz sine wave and SLOWLY turn the gain adjustment until you are close to 14.14VAC; some like to leave "head room" by over-shooting but it's your equipment, so I wont tell you how to run it.

You may have to change the sine wave. I used a 2000hz for my full range speakers (i don't have tweeters), 200hz for my Midbass, and 50hz for my sub. 

Do this for Front, Rear, and Sub channels and it will be the safest route. You now know the max point on your radio and your amp wont try to amplify the signal more than it should.

PM me your email and I will email you some useful tools I made while learning about active systems the hard way.

I know what you mean, I rebuilt the motor and heads in my beater truck and haven't got a chance to touch it much. Joined a brand new company this year and my damn wedding's in 30 days!


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

That makes perfect sense! thanks for posting that info man. I'm gonna try to get to that this weekend as well. 

I know how you feel with a wedding coming up... I've been there, and a good friend of mine just went through it. It's crazy how difficult/time consuming/****ty it can be getting everything lined up. lol!


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

Life got in the way last weekend, which keeps happening lately. So, progress is SLOW on this project 

I finally started on the grills

I welded up some steel rod and made a little grill that I thought would look nice, and attach with magnets or velcro. There was a gap at the top of the grill that I thought couldn't be seen because it would tuck up under the dash. I was wrong about that, and it stood out quite a bit:













Since I didn't like the way that looked, I decided to try a different approach, which I think came out A LOT nicer. I didn't take any pics to show how I did this, but I'll post them up when I do the other side 

This is the final product:












This is my first attempt at wrapping stuff, or 'interior work' in general. I'm pretty damn happy with how this came out. I also realize that grill cloth is very forgiving, so I wouldn't expect my vinyl wrapping skills to be very good lol!


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Kicks look good. 2nd attempt turned out much nicer.


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

Is that apple juice? :2thumbsup:

Looks good man!


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

No sir. It's one of my favorite beers:











Drink two of these, and you're blowed out... big time! Lmao!!!! I almost got 3 in that night, but lost all memory of what I was doing. The wife said I came in from the garage. Stared at the wall for about 5 minutes, then started talking stupid and acting stupid. Haha!!!! Moral of the story.... be careful with the Southern Tier Pumking. It sneaks up on you, and once it grabs ahold, you better hang on!


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Subscribed. 
Cool build. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Subscribed.
> Cool build.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks man! I've always enjoyed reading through your threads. I've learned a lot from your posts... keep it up!


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

The hood latch handle relief had to be addressed before I could get the driver side completed.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)




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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

Still have to put the cat hair on the front. The intent is to spray some high build, and press a plastic bag on it while its wet to try to duplicate the factory texture. Never tried it before, so we'll see how it goes. Lol.


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## derek0606 (Dec 1, 2010)

I'll have to find that beer! Finally someone else who likes non main stream beer! My favorite is Spaten Optimator which gives you the same side effects!

Interesting idea for the highbuild primer. I have seen this done with candy on a Harley for a marble effect and it came out pretty neat looking. Keep up the good work bro!


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## The Performer (Aug 12, 2012)

queen_stick said:


> Still have to put the cat hair on the front. The intent is to spray some high build, and press a plastic bag on it while its wet to try to duplicate the factory texture. Never tried it before, so we'll see how it goes. Lol.


It will separate after the first season change.

Your best bet is to cover then in vinyl. That way when the filler and plastic lift from each other the fabric will hide it.

Uts not a question of if, its when. Plastic will only bond to plastic period. If you just finish it in vinyl you will be set for many years to come with no issues.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

The Performer said:


> It will separate after the first season change.
> 
> Your best bet is to cover then in vinyl. That way when the filler and plastic lift from each other the fabric will hide it.
> 
> ...


I was trying to convince myself that it would hold up because it's not exposed to the elements. I was 99 % sure that it was going to crack, and you just changed that to 100%. What sucks about wrapping in vinyl... I've never done it, and it means I'd have to redo the other side, so that it matches. Thanks for the info.


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## queen_stick (Jan 5, 2011)

derek0606 said:


> I'll have to find that beer! Finally someone else who likes non main stream beer! My favorite is Spaten Optimator which gives you the same side effects!
> 
> Interesting idea for the highbuild primer. I have seen this done with candy on a Harley for a marble effect and it came out pretty neat looking. Keep up the good work bro!


hell yeah! I rarely drink mainstream beers. I've forgotten about more beers than a lot of people have tried  one thing that I highly recommend with a pumpkin beer... put brown sugar on the rim of the glass (just like salt on a margarita glass). It's awesome! With that said, not all pumpkin beers are good. That Southern Tier pictured above is my favorite by far.


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