# Stevens MB-10



## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Got to say , these things thump the midbass 

oh my goodness…..


put one in a sealed box in passanger floorboard , omg !!!

Drum attacks are crazy insane.

if your in the market for 10” midbass wow

And it seems to play to 1k and is smooth all the way up 

Highly recommend these to anyone lookin for 10s


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

Here is the spec sheet for anyone interested. Winslow replaced his 18Sound 10NMBA520 with the MB10-4 ohm and says he gave up nothing in sensitivity and clarity but now has the midbass attack and impact hes been searching for.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Eric Stevens said:


> Here is the spec sheet for anyone interested. Winslow replaced his 18Sound 10NMBA520 with the MB10-4 ohm and says he gave up nothing in sensitivity and clarity but now has the midbass attack and impact hes been searching for.


aah low Q!!!
No wonder why it’s so snappy in small sealed yet maintains low response really good 🤩🤩🤩


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

How would these work under the seat box ? I got ton of room under my seats and sick of the door vibrations..


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

quickaudi07 said:


> How would these work under the seat box ? I got ton of room under my seats and sick of the door vibrations..
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


eric would be able speak better to technical stuff

but low Q basically means small tiny box (sealed) and for ported low Q is preffered.

yeah…. Should be wikked I would bet


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## kenny5555 (Jan 17, 2008)

What size box would be recommended?


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

kenny5555 said:


> What size box would be recommended?


depends what you want it to do

a few box sized would work for different applications….

as far as mfg rec , that’s Eric

model it in winisd , I would imagine small for a 10
Like .5-.7 sealed would be plenty


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

A Q of .7 is rather small .29 ft3 because of the Low Q, I prefer low Q for midbass so go as large as possilble up to IB a Q of .505 is .58ft3. If the space is available Ported in the .32 to .65 range will work well tuned in the 50 to 70 Hz range depending on application


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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

quickaudi07 said:


> How would these work under the seat box ? I got ton of room under my seats and sick of the door vibrations..
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


They would work well the front loading helps the bottom end, I would suggest making it so the output is directed forward and cant come out the side and rear.


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

*oabeieo,*

I tried modeling the mb10 in winisd and it looks like some very very good results. I was wondering if you could confirm what I'm seeing in the program with what you've experienced.

What I get, when compared to the MB8 when modeled IB the MB10 is 7-10+ db louder than the MB8 at x-max. I modeled the MB8 with a 4th order highpass @ 65hz to control cone excursion. The part that's really surprising is the MB10, even with 250w in IB, only requires a highpass at 20hz for excursion control, and that's at xbl, not xmech. 

When accounting for cabin gain, the MB10 can play pretty much to 25hz if you attenuate frequencies OVER 100hz, or match the mb8, which is finished at 70hz, with no top end attenuation. If this modeling matches reality I'm going to have to cut open my floorboards again to fit the bigger drivers.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

pwnt by pat said:


> *oabeieo,*
> 
> I tried modeling the mb10 in winisd and it looks like some very very good results. I was wondering if you could confirm what I'm seeing in the program with what you've experienced.
> 
> ...


yeah that sound about right,

I used a 4ch mosconi pro 4/10 two channels bridged to the MB10 sealed in about .6-.7 (idk it was a fiberglass box in passanger footwell) so it was getting about 300w

I used no HPF, I let it play all the way down and some eq on the peaks that subsequently controlled cone movement a lot

I was surprised by the sensitivity, I had to gain it down to match the 6.5s on the tilt I had , and it was extremely snappy and snare pop literally to die for.

i pretty much guessed on the airspace, and just used RTa with EQ

I was no where near max excursion when I was done , although it was mating up to some focal mids and highs that are fairly inefficient

I could only imagine what it would do with horns ,


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

It would be ear drum shattering for sure. 

I'm interested in them not necessarily for the extra output but for the extra lfe. There seems no downside to these drivers other than the extra work to install them. I'll have to model them but a pair up in kicks seems like it completely negates any need for a front sub.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

pwnt by pat said:


> It would be ear drum shattering for sure.
> 
> I'm interested in them not necessarily for the extra output but for the extra lfe. There seems no downside to these drivers other than the extra work to install them. I'll have to model them but a pair up in kicks seems like it completely negates any need for a front sub.


yeah if you can get the kicks to have the right airspace youde be golden,

I will say this tho, I wouldn’t be too worried about it playing below 40hz, if you were also going to have a sub in the back.

if you’re OK with about 40 and above (and 40 is low bass if you didn’t already know that) then you could get away cramming these in like .3 sealed and some eq…. If you can squeeze .4 you’ll really like it

if you do IB , obviously your play down to DC no problem at all, I would go for IB setup with a little bit of a restriction with light AP stuffing, just something to bring the Q up just a tad to get the snare pop you want….

like a 4” hole mildly stuffed with fiberglass or poly fill would be stellar in a tiny tiny pod vented to the outside…like through a kick into the inner fender


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

I currently have the mb8 in approximately .25 cu ft before displacement. I still have to cut the floor to vent them; I just haven't had the time to work on that. 

I wouldn't need them to play to 20hz. 40hz is plenty low enough. I was just surprised to see them be able to get that low without losing control or rolling off.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

pwnt by pat said:


> I currently have the mb8 in approximately .25 cu ft before displacement. I still have to cut the floor to vent them; I just haven't had the time to work on that.
> 
> I wouldn't need them to play to 20hz. 40hz is plenty low enough. I was just surprised to see them be able to get that low without losing control or rolling off.


yeah and to be honest , they played with no HPF , but when I HP them at 70 they got even more snappy, (which makes sence) they’ll be even more snappy if you HP them even at 30 compared to no HP, I would experiment tho and find the happy spot

I just ended up with no Hp because the box raised the Q enough)

I would add one if you want that attack effect, it will raise the electrical Q and be something if IB , and if there’s a lot of gain below the crossover, you could net flat phase and flat responce and still raise the electrical Q just enough (a BW6 might be perfect around 60hz)


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

I'd been on the fence about ordering MB8's for my 2010 Grand Cherokee for a quite a while. However, with the introduction of the MB10, I just knew I had to find a way to wedge them in my doors. I've got 8's in there now and have gone through several iterations. Started with Dayton RS225's, then moved to a MW172 as part of my Dynaudio Esotec 362 set. While better than the RS225, I can't say the MW172 provided the impact I was looking for. I decided to drop in a pair of Pioneer Premier TS-SW841D shallow mount subwoofers that I had sitting around for a decade unused. Holy hell, I was on to something. I fully realize that those subs may not be the best option from a SQ standpoint in an application like this. However, they really don't sound worse than any solution I'd used before while filling in that objectively perceived gap I felt I had.

So, on to the MB10's. I placed an order on impulse last week, and they arrived yesterday. They are as heavy and well built as I'd hoped. Now I'll be working on a proper installation including small sealed enclosures. I can't wait to get them installed. I do have to come up with a good looking door panel solution however, as I don't believe I have enough clearance otherwise. Ah well, that's part of the fun!

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## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

I dont recomend small sealed. Use the whole door volume anbd make it super solid. The subwoofer type driver will give you the tactile part of the midbass but will be missing the upper snap tying it all together as part of the music. Let us know how they work for you.


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

Eric Stevens said:


> I dont recomend small sealed. Use the whole door volume anbd make it super solid. The subwoofer type driver will give you the tactile part of the midbass but will be missing the upper snap tying it all together as part of the music. Let us know how they work for you.


Understood, thanks Eric. I'll definitely let you know how they work out.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

It will ring and won’t work right 

Tens are big , there not 6s , a door cabity is perfect…. 

If your thinking I’m going to do it anyway… I would reconsider. To get .3-.5cuft that box will be to your legs and the door might not close lol


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

oabeieo said:


> It will ring and won’t work right
> 
> Tens are big , there not 6s , a door cabity is perfect….
> 
> If your thinking I’m going to do it anyway… I would reconsider. To get .3-.5cuft that box will be to your legs and the door might not close lol


Lol, I've got long legs and need all the space down there I can get. I've got a little over 3" of depth in my OEM locations, but the 8's I have now are sitting on .5 spacers. From their face to the back of the door panel I've got another 1.25" for most of the top 2/3 of speaker. However, the lower portion is quite a bit closer where the panel moves inward to accomodate a pocket. I am pretty handy when it comes to customization however. I modified my OEM dash bezel to accommodate a Kenwood DMX1057XR almost flush and I've built pillar pods for my Dynaudio's. All of that means nothing without input from guys like you and Eric, so it's much appreciated. 

A few example pics... (ignore the Dayton's in the sail panel from a previous install, they are no longer there.)


































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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

craigbru said:


> Lol, I've got long legs and need all the space down there I can get. I've got a little over 3" of depth in my OEM locations, but the 8's I have now are sitting on .5 spacers. From their face to the back of the door panel I've got another 1.25" for most of the top 2/3 of speaker. However, the lower portion is quite a bit closer where the panel moves inward to accomodate a pocket. I am pretty handy when it comes to customization however. I modified my OEM dash bezel to accommodate a Kenwood DMX1057XR almost flush and I've built pillar pods for my Dynaudio's. All of that means nothing without input from guys like you and Eric, so it's much appreciated.
> 
> A few example pics... (ignore the Dayton's in the sail panel from a previous install, they are no longer there.)
> 
> ...



Install looks great, have you thought about a single 10 in a fiberglass box in passanger footwell (there you can get it) the one I did was ballpark about .7 (ish) and oh my god …


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

I've envied installs that can pull off floorboard or kick panel speaker placement. I've never had a vehicle in which it made practical sense. It was always a combination of lack of space in the car itself, or my own long legs that would cause a problem. I really wanted a pair of Eric's horns, but even with the mini's my shin's would be at risk in a big way.

Thanks for the advice. My door currently has quite a bit of Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro right now, but I'm certain additional stiffening will be required as this is a significant jump up. You're right, additional door skin bracing will be a good idea. If I can, I'm going to try and have the MB10 and associated mounting assembly stick through the door with a trim ring of some kind. I don't think I want the speaker firing against the door skin in any way. 

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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

craigbru said:


> I've envied installs that can pull off floorboard or kick panel speaker placement. I've never had a vehicle in which it made practical sense. It was always a combination of lack of space in the car itself, or my own long legs that would cause a problem. I really wanted a pair of Eric's horns, but even with the mini's my shin's would be at risk in a big way.
> 
> Thanks for the advice. My door currently has quite a bit of Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro right now, but I'm certain additional stiffening will be required as this is a significant jump up. You're right, additional door skin bracing will be a good idea. If I can, I'm going to try and have the MB10 and associated mounting assembly stick through the door with a trim ring of some kind. I don't think I want the speaker firing against the door skin in any way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk



Yeah I was sayin just do one, on passanger side , and don’t do anything on driver side 

Then keep using your door midbass for regular left and right midbass , then just the one 10” in a fiberglass box in passanger footwell 

It won’t localize and you could cross it at 200-300 or even cross it at 150 and don’t use a HPF or a low HP around 60hz 

You’ll still have all the foot room you want and have boss midbass


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

oabeieo said:


> Yeah I was sayin just do one, on passanger side , and don’t do anything on driver side
> 
> Then keep using your door midbass for regular left and right midbass , then just the one 10” in a fiberglass box in passanger footwell
> 
> ...


Ah, got it! I'll take a look this weekend and see if that's an option, even if I have to go through the floor. (I'm no stranger to that as I've got a pair of Brahma's in a through-floor ported box in the rear). I could then resinstall the MW172's. 

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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

craigbru said:


> Ah, got it! I'll take a look this weekend and see if that's an option, even if I have to go through the floor. (I'm no stranger to that as I've got a pair of Brahma's in a through-floor ported box in the rear). I could then resinstall the MW172's.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk


Oh snap! That could be pretty bad ass…. 🥳🥳🤩🤩


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

oabeieo said:


> Yeah I was sayin just do one, on passanger side , and don’t do anything on driver side
> 
> Then keep using your door midbass for regular left and right midbass , then just the one 10” in a fiberglass box in passanger footwell
> 
> ...


So you are just summing it mono?


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

dcfis said:


> So you are just summing it mono?


You could , as I believe most recoding engineers mono everything under about 200hz


On his I just did the right channel and tuned it separate from the right channel


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

dcfis said:


> So you are just summing it mono?



And to further that , wherever your 1st comb filter is (the one everybody has in the 300-500 range) the one room mode that you just can’t push eq into to 

Everywhere below that frequencies kinda don’t “fit” inside the car…. 

So , even if it was stereo signal mono would be fine as your not going to be able to tell much anyways where it’s coming from… 

Obviously it’s a lessening effect as frequencies rise, but where your putting the power to it won’t matter. What matters is it’s in the front. And obviously two would still be that much better.
One will get you by tho…. And augment the doors nicely


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

I took a look at things over the weekend, and it looks like a door install is my best bet. I built a mock up box for my passenger side footwell, and there's simply too much space lost. At least more than what I'd be comfortable with in a daily driver and offroad/adventure toy. I did look at going through the floor, but there's more unibody frame structure under there than I care to modify at this time. So, on that note, I've started to design a spacer and trim ring solution that will look well integrated on the OEM door card. It will be a combination of 3D printing and CNC cut parts. I'll have no shortage of winter projects at this rate!

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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

You can also do a front woofer mounted in IB and kick panels as well 😉









































Now to make trim panels and grills for the kicks before I put my toe through the satori carbon fibre goodness, and also fit the 12fe300 where the 10fe200 is currently 😉 awesome up front midbass is now in the house, and the boot has some new shiny stuff going on


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

dumdum said:


> You can also do a front woofer mounted in IB and kick panels as well 😉
> 
> View attachment 352432
> 
> ...


I really like fiberglass it right to the frame like that… really nice mounts… bet it sounds great!


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## CrimsonCountry (Mar 11, 2012)

craigbru said:


> I took a look at things over the weekend, and it looks like a door install is my best bet. I built a mock up box for my passenger side footwell, and there's simply too much space lost. At least more than what I'd be comfortable with in a daily driver and offroad/adventure toy. I did look at going through the floor, but there's more unibody frame structure under there than I care to modify at this time. So, on that note, I've started to design a spacer and trim ring solution that will look well integrated on the OEM door card. It will be a combination of 3D printing and CNC cut parts. I'll have no shortage of winter projects at this rate!
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk


Excited to see how this turns out! I've been running 8" PA mids with my mini horns for a while so it's the next (il)logical step. I may have to go the same route with a door card flush mount as I'm already close depth-wise as is.


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

oabeieo said:


> I really like fiberglass it right to the frame like that… really nice mounts… bet it sounds great!


It’s still removable with 5 screws and bolts

I sealed it on with butyl in the contact areas, it is very solid and won’t move 👍🏼


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

That 10 is one bad mfer...it's the midbass that I've been wanting for 20 something years.


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

For those interested, here's what I've got so far. 2 pieces that I'll be 3D printing. An inner spacer that will be have material removed as needed to match the door structure. Then there is an outer trim ring that will slide over the spacer and completed the look. I'll cut a hole in the door card for the top 3/4 or so, however, I'll have to fab a spacer for the lower portion due to an inward taper for a door pocket. I'll worry about that once I start cutting. Depending on how much material I take off the back side of the spacer, I can regulate the speaker depth as needed. I do have a set of Goldwood 10" grills that I picked up from Amazon that fit the MB10's perfectly. More to come in a few weeks or so.


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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

Quick update, the door card trim ring has arrived. It's really starting to sink in how ridiculous this is. Not that I'm complaining, but I can't help but question my sanity in switching from 8's that fit behind the panel to something that requires this level of modification. LOL, oh well, it's all part of the fun.


























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## craigbru (May 11, 2016)

The inner spacers have arrived! Printed in fiberglass reinforced nylon. As I mentioned before, they will be trimmed and shaped as needed to fit the underlying metal. The MB-10 will be secured in place with the grill installed. The door card will be cut to accommodate the trim ring, and the card will be removable without affecting the installed speaker in any way. I figured this was the best option in my case. I've got other projects I'm supposed to work on first, but maybe I'll have a chance over the holidays to start the install.


























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## banshee28 (Mar 23, 2006)

So I have a 3-series BMW with 10" Morel "Subs" under the seats. Was thinking of converting those to MB8's or 10's. However, I really like the idea of the single 10" in pass foot-well for the up front soundstage benefits! How would this compare to the 10's underseat if the single was setup properly? I dont mind cutting out a small hole for the pass footwell as I have the underseats vented the same. I guess with this setup I would no longer need or want any underseats? Mids are Dyn 430's.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

banshee28 said:


> So I have a 3-series BMW with 10" Morel "Subs" under the seats. Was thinking of converting those to MB8's or 10's. However, I really like the idea of the single 10" in pass foot-well for the up front soundstage benefits! How would this compare to the 10's underseat if the single was setup properly? I dont mind cutting out a small hole for the pass footwell as I have the underseats vented the same. I guess with this setup I would no longer need or want any underseats? Mids are Dyn 430's.



Pass footwell will have better integration with the mains and staging 

I’ll just say this , I’m not sure you’ll need to cut a hole , the pass footwell box I did was the most ridiculous midbass I’ve heard to date. Super snappy and it growled with the sub, it was far from sounding hollow or ringing. No joke and I can’t remember but I think I ended up with .6 cubes , and Eric said earlier can go smaller like .3 which is crazy small for a 10 

I would do pass footwell and I would go for sealed , the Q will stay low and my goodness the transient response is to die for no joke.


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## banshee28 (Mar 23, 2006)

oabeieo said:


> Pass footwell will have better integration with the mains and staging
> 
> I’ll just say this , I’m not sure you’ll need to cut a hole , the pass footwell box I did was the most ridiculous midbass I’ve heard to date. Super snappy and it growled with the sub, it was far from sounding hollow or ringing. No joke and I can’t remember but I think I ended up with .6 cubes , and Eric said earlier can go smaller like .3 which is crazy small for a 10
> 
> I would do pass footwell and I would go for sealed , the Q will stay low and my goodness the transient response is to die for no joke.


Very nice! I like the idea to keep it simple and sealed. Any idea what a shop would charge to build a similar box for my setup?


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

banshee28 said:


> Very nice! I like the idea to keep it simple and sealed. Any idea what a shop would charge to build a similar box for my setup?


Bmw …. Lot of room down there and if you cut the carpet you can get like 6 more inches 😂 lol

I would guess low side with trunk liner 500$ Fiberglass box , high side , vynil or something trick with flush ring , 1200$ ish


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