# Pioneer's SPANKING new DEH-80PRS. Pioneer's knockout punch to Alpine's CDA-117?



## frankmehta

It's out! The head unit (at least) I was waiting for. 
$420 MSRP (destined to be pegged somewhere around CDA-117 money when it's out for sale)
28-Bit Binary Floating-Point DSP and 3-Way Digital Network (WITHOUT a processor)
5V preouts
Burr-Brown 24-bit D/A Converters
Bluetooth, iPod direct,
L/R Independent 16-Band Digital Equalizer
Time Alignment
Pandora
Wired Remote Input
SD/SDHC Memory Card Slot
Full Dot LCD Display (192 x 48 pixels, 3-line)


FULLY LOADED. AND HOW!!?!!?!

I am very excited about this unit. What say guys?


----------



## sqnut

Great, that sounds like the earlier P-80rs except that you can now do 3way+sub. I'm sure they improved the interface capability as well, cause that was one weakness of the older one. Atleast for those who stream music. I wish they had made it 31 bands on the eq. 16 was spread a bit thin over 3 drivers a side. It would be thinner over 4. 

Just going by Bings thread on CES, seems like Alpine did a good enough job killing the 117. Very little, if any of the dsp got carried to the replacement model.


----------



## chefhow

Why is nobody talking about the new Clarion w/full processing built in?


----------



## Coppertone

^^ I had no clue one existed, do you have a link for this?


----------



## frankmehta

The clarion cz702. Not a patch on this one though.


----------



## Coppertone

Just read the specs on this, all I can say is NICE.


----------



## chefhow

And it's got an MSRP of $249.


----------



## Coppertone

Noooo, make the bad people go away, I must NOT buy another piece of non needed stereo equipment. Where is my credit card shredder lol.


----------



## ErinH

Looks like the Clarion only has 5 band EQ vs. the 16 band on the Pioneer. Given their price points, it's not like the two are head to head competitors but still...

I do like how the Clarion has the BT mic built in. Makes it super easy for install. 

I like the Pioneer's looks more but honestly, it's still not even that nice looking. The p99 has it all but is nearly 3x the price.


----------



## kyheng

If $400 can get 3-way + sub, why not?
The above only happens when I'm dreaming, haha...
The only hope for this is Pioneer remove the stupid pico fuse design...


----------



## ErinH

^ don't hot swap and it's not a problem.

I've never had a pico issue with any of my pioneer decks (800prs, 880prs, etc).


----------



## prettysweetsounds

^^thanks guys for bringing this deck to my attention. sounds pretty nice and I actually like the styling.

Personally, I'd pay the extra and go for the p99rs but it's little brother is pretty nice for those on a budget.


----------



## prettysweetsounds

sqnut said:


> Great, that sounds like the earlier P-80rs except that you *can now do 3way+sub*. I'm sure they improved the interface capability as well, cause that was one weakness of the older one. Atleast for those who stream music. I wish they had made it 31 bands on the eq. 16 was spread a bit thin over 3 drivers a side. It would be thinner over 4.
> 
> Just going by Bings thread on CES, seems like Alpine did a good enough job killing the 117. Very little, if any of the dsp got carried to the replacement model.


Sounded like it was 2way plus sub to me...


----------



## sqnut

bikinpunk said:


> ^ don't hot swap and it's not a problem.
> 
> I've never had a pico issue with any of my pioneer decks (800prs, 880prs, etc).


^^ ran both decks for four years and never had the issue.


----------



## frankmehta

Does the pico fuse issue even apply to the premier series of decks???


----------



## sqnut

prettysweetsounds said:


> Personally, I'd pay the extra and go for the p99rs but it's little brother is pretty nice for those on a budget.


Personally, for the extra I'd always get a processor over the p-99.



prettysweetsounds said:


> Sounded like it was 2way plus sub to me...


I was just taking it from what Frank mentioned. I haven't checked the details.


----------



## oxsign

Wow I just looked it up after seeing this and I might have to concider this.


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

frankmehta said:


> It's out! The head unit (at least) I was waiting for.
> $420 MSRP (destined to be pegged somewhere around CDA-117 money when it's out for sale)
> 28-Bit Binary Floating-Point DSP and 3-Way Digital Network (WITHOUT a processor)
> 5V preouts
> Burr-Brown 24-bit D/A Converters
> Bluetooth, iPod direct,
> L/R Independent 16-Band Digital Equalizer
> Time Alignment
> Pandora
> Wired Remote Input
> SD/SDHC Memory Card Slot
> Full Dot LCD Display (192 x 48 pixels, 3-line)
> 
> 
> FULLY LOADED. AND HOW!!?!!?!
> 
> I am very excited about this unit. What say guys?


Where can I view this head unit, link?


----------



## evo9

frankmehta said:


> It's out! The head unit (at least) I was waiting for.
> $420 MSRP (destined to be pegged somewhere around CDA-117 money when it's out for sale)
> 28-Bit Binary Floating-Point DSP and 3-Way Digital Network (WITHOUT a processor)
> 5V preouts
> Burr-Brown 24-bit D/A Converters
> Bluetooth, iPod direct,
> L/R Independent 16-Band Digital Equalizer
> Time Alignment
> Pandora
> Wired Remote Input
> SD/SDHC Memory Card Slot
> Full Dot LCD Display (192 x 48 pixels, 3-line)
> 
> 
> *FULLY LOADED. AND HOW!!?!!?!*
> 
> I am very excited about this unit. What say guys?




It seems this unit is geared towards the SQ & competition users. So it seems Pioneer removed the IP-Buss connector & circuit to reduce cost. So no sat radio & changer capability.





.


----------



## prettysweetsounds

^^good catch on your part. Not having those items is a 'negative' in my book.


----------



## evo9

prettysweetsounds said:


> ^^good catch on your part. Not having those items is a 'negative' in my book.




Well it really should not be, the unit is bluetooth capable. With that option you have access to more media via your smartphone! Iheart radio "FREE" seems to be the hot pick over sat radio these days. Then the memory card in your phone replaces the CD changer. Smart move on Pioneers part to capitalize on that technology to save the end user some $$$$.






.


----------



## BigRed

The new pioneer felt cheap. The volume button and the whole front display for that matter. Not my cup of tea for sure


----------



## ChrisB

bikinpunk said:


> ^ *don't hot swap and it's not a problem.*
> 
> I've never had a pico issue with any of my pioneer decks (800prs, 880prs, etc).


Not entirely true... In August 2008, I was riding to a friend's funeral with another friend in his 2004 Tahoe and his Tahoe was having problems with the AC compressor clutch cycling in and out. Want to guess what blew on the way to the funeral? The Pico fuse in his Pioneer HU. It was a loud snap followed by that overly loud whine sound through the speakers. That loud snap coincided with the clutch kicking in.

Of course, one of our local tech buddies was able to bypass the Pico in about 20 minutes, including removal and reinstallation. In theory, it shouldn't have blown due to a non-audio related event.


----------



## prettysweetsounds

evo9 said:


> Well it really should not be, the unit is bluetooth capable. With that option you have access to more media via your smartphone! Iheart radio "FREE" seems to be the hot pick over sat radio these days. Then the memory card in your phone replaces the CD changer. Smart move on Pioneers part to capitalize on that technology to save the end user some $$$$.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


^^yeah, accept I actually use a cd changer and not a smartphone. So like I said 'for me' it's a negative.


----------



## t3sn4f2

prettysweetsounds said:


> ^^good catch on your part. Not having those items is a 'negative' in my book.


x2

I would've only been interested in it for the HD radio and its tagging function, but I can live without it IF _everything_ else works as it should.


----------



## 2010hummerguy

I am also sad to see IP bus go, so much for my Pioneer XM unit.


----------



## robert_wrath

I'll throw a wrench in the mix: add the _*Kenwood KDCX-996*_ and compare.


----------



## Mic10is

robert_wrath said:


> I'll throw a wrench in the mix: add the _*Kenwood KDCX-996*_ and compare.


I like the look of the new Kenwod units and theyve always been a great choice for video units with alot of features and a good price point, but SQ wise I have yet to find one that was transparent
every Kenwood I have ever used and sold all had some coloration to the sound


----------



## robert_wrath

Mic10is said:


> I like the look of the new Kenwod units and theyve always been a great choice for video units with alot of features and a good price point, but SQ wise I have yet to find one that was transparent
> every Kenwood I have ever used and sold all had some coloration to the sound


Are you referring to the internal IC's amplification or the DAC's?


----------



## t3sn4f2

robert_wrath said:


> Are you referring to the internal IC's amplification or the DAC's?


Look at his sig and take a guess.


----------



## WLDock

evo9 said:


> It seems this unit is geared towards the SQ & competition users. So it seems Pioneer removed the IP-Buss connector & circuit to reduce cost. So no sat radio & changer capability.


I would guess if we could have a rep from Pioneer speak on this they would say that this is simply a modern DEH-P800PRS for the North American market. The segment that wants a 3-way capable deck at a MUCH cheaper price than the STAGE 4 P99. I'm sure the majority that bought the P880/P800PRS decks DID NOT buy a CD changer and SAT RADIO module. I'm sure the iPod interface ruled in sales. So, I think it makes sense to pull out the less popular options and features like a copper plated chassis, etc... but add the ones that the MAJORITY wants but yet get the price down as cheap as possible for this market...I'm sure our(dealers/consumers) feedback asked for this.





BigRed said:


> The new pioneer felt cheap. The volume button and the whole front display for that matter. Not my cup of tea for sure


Not hard to believe at all....even though most of us have yet to see it....the design looks very "entry level" in the photos. Looks aside, I like some of the built in features vs. 800PRS.





prettysweetsounds said:


> ^^yeah, accept I actually use a cd changer and not a smartphone. So like I said 'for me' it's a negative.


I would think CD changer sales are WAAAY down. Guys like yourself should hold on to what you have now ...for as long as you can! If a CD changer is important to you and you MUST have a new deck...make the low cost *DEH-P9400BH* or high cost *DEX-P99RS* work for you!





Architect7 said:


> I am also sad to see IP bus go, so much for my Pioneer XM unit.


Again, why should this new deck be a negative and why does your XM unit have to go away? Just keep what you already have for as long as you can! If XM radio is important to you and you MUST have a NEW deck then make the low cost *DEH-P9400BH* or high cost *DEX-P99RS* work for you!

*Is the glass half empty or half full? *

It is impossible to please everyone but I would bet we (North America) asked for the DEH-80PRS...my guess is we complained about the price of the 800PRS and wanted a 4-way for that kind of money. Also, I would guess the average buyer of a 800PRS has either an iPod/iPhone or a smartphone or both...so that is the direction this new deck takes...or assumes. _So....I guess Pioneer said..."Let me tell you something....we are not making a low cost 4-way deck! If you want it all....either put up or shut up as we have the 4-way capable P99 available to the USA as well as a very capable 3-way yet $180 lower MSRP than the last gen deck available for the USA." _What other company offers these *TWO* options right now here in 2012?


As far as the PICO Fuse issue....we have all read enough posts to know that some have it and some have NOT had it to date....and the 880PRS released back in what....'06?


----------



## tintbox

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


t3sn4f2 said:


> Look at his sig and take a guess.


----------



## ~Spyne~

Looks 2-way + sub to me too. Pioneer would be silly to make this 3-way + sub, imo, as it would take quite a few (*A LOT!*) sales away from the P99 unit.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Why the uncertainty? 

"*3-Way* Digital Network: The DEH-80PRS features a 3-Way Digital Network, connecting (via *three 5V RCA preouts*) up to* three external amplifiers, each dedicated to driving high-, mid- and low-frequency ranges*, respectively. The result: more distinct separation of the three frequency ranges, for more full, natural sound realizing more of each speaker’s potential in a multi-speaker system."


----------



## kizz

To me this deck looks pretty sweet and might rival the 117 i have being sent to me. I like the look and the color change option which is a nit pick but i like it. pioneer's website doesn't clarify much, just says three way network. What's the chances they mean 3way+sub? 

Does anybody know the release date? website just says spring of 2012. Someone said on here it felt cheap....really? thats a little discouraging. I for one am excited to check it out.


----------



## Cancerkazoo

prettysweetsounds said:


> ^^yeah, accept I actually use a cd changer and not a smartphone. So like I said 'for me' it's a negative.





Poineers Site said:


> Dual rear USB ports allow connection of 2 compatible USB devices so you will never run out of source options. For example, you can connect an iPod to USB1 and a compatible *USB hard disk drive to USB2.*


So, if you have any old HD laying around, buy a $10 usb adapter and rip your CDs to FLAC or another lossless format.


----------



## oxsign

March April from what I've read.


----------



## rton20s

This will be my next head unit. And while the lack of satellite radio or CD changer control may be a negative for some, it isn't for me. There are plenty of music sources in the form of iPhone apps. And you can rip quite a few CDs at a high quality to an SDHC card.


----------



## jpswanberg

This will be my new headunit as. iPod (160GB Classic filled with 5000 songs ripped to Apple lossless) 90 % of the time, CD 5% of the time and Sports radio on AM 5% of the time. Personally I lost interest in cd changers the moment I got my first iPod, and XM when they started to lower the bitrate.


----------



## t3sn4f2

nevermind


----------



## kizz

Pioneer website shows the 3rca's on the back. So 2way+sub. There is an extra set of eva connections on the other side by the isbn connections, is this a rear aux input? 

On a side note, once I buy it, I can do a side by side(so to speak) comparison of the 117 vs. 80prs!!


----------



## WLDock

kizz said:


> Pioneer's website doesn't clarify much, just says three way network. What's the chances they mean 3way+sub?


You are reaching.....read the post by t3sn4f2 above yours...Its a 3-way deck...I really don't see how they can be more clear.

Pioneer has been at this for awhile...here is the timeline for some of their DSP decks over the years... for those that might not know:

*DEH-80PRS(2012)*
3-Way Digital Network, connecting (via three 5V RCA preouts) up to three external amplifiers, each dedicated to driving high-, mid- and low-frequency ranges, respectively.

*DEX-P99RS(2010)*
The DEX-P99RS features a high-performance 32-Bit digital signal processor (DSP) that provides the signal processing power for dual (left and right) 31-band equalization, digital time alignment for all pre-amp outputs and a 4-way digital crossover network. A high-precision master clock, a total of four AKM 24-Bit DACs, linear technology high-slew rate op-amps, hi-volt preamp outputs (5V) X 4 and a direct digital signal path via USB complete the high performance hardware design. 

*DEH-P880PRS(2006), DEH-P800PRS(2008)*
3-way digital crossover network
6-channel preamp outputs (5-volt front, rear, and sub)

*DEX-P9/DEQ-P9(2001)*
4-Way Digital Network (High, Mid, Low, Sub)
Three 24-Bit D/A Converter for High, Mid, Low
One 1-Bit D/A Converter for Sub
Hi-Volt RCA Preouts (x4 pair) (High, Mid, Low, Sub)

*DEX-P1R(1998)*
Hi-Volt RCA Preouts (x3-way pair) (Front/Rear + Subwoofer) (4 Volt, <100 Ohm, Gold Plated) 

*ODR Optical Digital Reference(1994)*
4-way digital crossover network 
HPF, LPF, Level for: subwoofer, Low, Mid, High 
http://184.173.80.203/~caraudio/ebay/equipment/manuals/pioneer_odr.pdf


----------



## kizz

WLDock, i corrected my statement after i said it. they were clear, but there are 4 sets of rca inputs on the back of the deck. it doesn't say what the other set is for. I just read someone said it was 3way +sub so i was just confused. all good now though!


----------



## kyheng

bikinpunk said:


> ^ don't hot swap and it's not a problem.
> 
> I've never had a pico issue with any of my pioneer decks (800prs, 880prs, etc).





ChrisB said:


> Not entirely true... In August 2008, I was riding to a friend's funeral with another friend in his 2004 Tahoe and his Tahoe was having problems with the AC compressor clutch cycling in and out. Want to guess what blew on the way to the funeral? The Pico fuse in his Pioneer HU. It was a loud snap followed by that overly loud whine sound through the speakers. That loud snap coincided with the clutch kicking in.
> 
> Of course, one of our local tech buddies was able to bypass the Pico in about 20 minutes, including removal and reinstallation. In theory, it shouldn't have blown due to a non-audio related event.


What he said... I faced such problem also.... So now no lower end Pioneer HUs for me.... Also no IP-Bus?
A lot of people always get the term wrong, when manufacturer says 3-way network, it means high, mid, sub. 4-way network means high, mid, low, sub... Just simple as that.... But then people(especially from East) always get this term wrong but still trying to say they are right...


----------



## ErinH

well, then don't buy one.

problem solved.


----------



## smgreen20

Pretty impressed by the new Pioneer unit. I had a P980-BT, it was great... for the wife, okay for me. 

[email protected]! Clarion screwed me again! ANOTHER HU of theirs I HAVE to buy.


----------



## kyheng

Just checked on Pioneer's website, even the lower end models have the IP-Bus connection....


----------



## WLDock

kyheng said:


> Just checked on Pioneer's website, even the lower end models have the IP-Bus connection....


Seems like they had a MSRP target to meet and the IP-Bus and copper plate was not what TEAM PIONEER wanted or thought was desired by this segment? This really is a speciallty deck...not the average guy coming through the door wants or needs a deck with the tuning ability of this deck. It is a true DIYMA deck. 

Anyway, the Japan site sure does make their new DEH-970 look nice...in terms of how the product is presented!

http://translate.googleusercontent....h_970/&usg=ALkJrhg8AhawzeXLFOskasNnxogN0jc-Rw









Why is the USA site always so plain? Well, STAGE 4 is fine.

Their last gen DEH-P940 was nice as well...We had nothing last year...
carrozzeria | ????????DEH-P940


----------



## nismos14

It's probably a function of it not have sold well for people with the 800/880's, or just to save money, at this price point, I don't see a better deck out there with the same features that can even compete. Where is there any info on the KDC-X996? I don't see anything, and it will probably be just like the 995 a carryover from the 993/994.


----------



## rton20s

WLDock said:


> Seems like they had a MSRP target to meet and the IP-Bus and copper plate was not what TEAM PIONEER wanted or thought was desired by this segment? This really is a speciallty deck...not the average guy coming through the door wants or needs a deck with the tuning ability of this deck. It is a true DIYMA deck.
> 
> Anyway, the Japan site sure does make their new DEH-970 look nice!
> 
> Google Translate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is the USA site always so plain? Well, STAGE 4 is fine.
> 
> Their last gen DEH-P940 was nice as well...We had nothing last year...
> carrozzeria | ????????DEH-P940


Call me crazy, but that 970 looks virtually identical to the DEH-80PRS. I think it is just the way the studio shots are lit and photographed. I haven't dig through the Japanese site enough to see if the specs are identical or not.


----------



## Angrywhopper

I was super excited about this headunit! Actually.. I still am, but fukk it I'm buying a 99rs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

So... you'll pay triple instead of just waiting for this?


----------



## rton20s

BY the way, if that DEH-970 actually is the identical unit for the Japanese market, there is a ton of information on the Japanese site WLDock linked to. Including the fact that the fourth set of RCAs (in) can be used as an additional input for the head unit. 

It also has information on the crossover frequencies and slopes. Probably a ton more info, and definitely worth taking a look and trudging your way through the Japanese text.


----------



## kyheng

Well, technical department always wants the best while marketing department always want to make maximum profit....


----------



## Bayboy

Well I still plan on getting it despite some of the negative assumptions for a product that hasn't even hit the shelves yet. 

Stating that it is truly a DIYMA headunit is pretty much an understatement IMO being that the majority here always suggest going active (3-way can be just as good and has been proven, so let's not start that debate). Add that with a much wider band EQ than the competition is offering without an additional processor. Couple those two aspects with time alignment. Now let's bunch this in an single & affordable headunit that is the descendant of a highly sought out deck and I say we have a winner! 

True enough I don't expect everyone's mom, pop, sis, cousins, etc to be ecstatic about it, much less even know of it's existence. However, I do feel it fills a very important niche that we often have complained about for the past few years..... the disappearance of highly capable headunits that didn't cost much. 

Kenwood seemed like they was on the verge for a while then reached a plateau of comfort which didn't settle well with those wanting full active, not to mention the plague of problems the more desired ones seemed to exhibit. 

Alpine has gotten into this outboard processor pissing match with companies that don't even make headunits. Not too bright IMO especially when you have to have certain headunits to use the more competent ones without the controller. Then the majority of their "lesser" headunits (but still costly!) was left to basically depend on the PXA-H100 which furthered cost, but basically was/is a failure in the manual tuning venue. 

Clarion just seemed to give up along the way after some fairly good success with capable headunits. Still don't understand that abandonment. 

JVC can't seem to make up their mind in what direction to go. I say bring back the quality and pride from back when Digifine was ruling. Yes I'm a little old. :blush:

Sony.... well is still being Sony. Damn Xplod blew up in their face and has just about ruined their reputation. Sadly enough, they continued to stick around the Xploded debris for too long and their products have taken a seat next to other failed brands found on your local Pep Boys shelves. Yes the puns was intentional. 


With all that (and sorry for the long rant), how can anyone see Pioneer in any other light besides making a very smart comeback after the last resurgence of hideous headunits with lesser impressions & offerings than the 1st generations with EEQ?! Remember it is not meant to compete with the upper tier headunits like its big brother. It is bringing something to the arena that will make other companies step up to retain sales. Isn't that a good thing in the end?!


----------



## nismos14

Clarion still had the DXZ's


----------



## Bayboy

nismos14 said:


> Clarion still had the DXZ's



You are correct and I fairly stated that somewhat (without naming the exact series). However, after those units there was pretty much nothing offered with those similarities. Now they could be offering one now and I will give full credit if that is the case. I see someone has mentioned there is one from an earlier post, but we have yet to see it so it's until then I stand by my view respectively.


----------



## nubz69

How can you guys even compare this to the CDA-117? The Alpine is nothing without the processor and even then it's just not that great for them money.

This is going to be a great head unit for the market, especially DIYMA guys. 3 way + sub, rear dual usb, bluetooth and it looks good!! Now if they only made it in double din with nav I would be in heaven. If this guy is able to read FLAC or ALAC off of an external drive it literally could not get better. You could rip all your music to lossless, put it on a drive, put that in your glovebox and have the best sound + your whole collection.


In fact, if this head unit reads NTFS drives (up till now most manufactures only read fat32), this will be the new hot ticket on DIYMA. Thats right, I am calling the trend. Now only time will tell if I am right 

Even if this head unit doesn't read NTFS, it will still be the hot setup with a large drive formated in fat32


----------



## nismos14

nubz69 said:


> How can you guys even compare this to the CDA-117? The Alpine is nothing without the processor and even then it's just not that great for them money.
> 
> This is going to be a great head unit for the market, especially DIYMA guys. 3 way + sub, rear dual usb, bluetooth and it looks good!! Now if they only made it in double din with nav I would be in heaven. If this guy is able to read FLAC or ALAC off of an external drive it literally could not get better. You could rip all your music to lossless, put it on a drive, put that in your glovebox and have the best sound + your whole collection.
> 
> 
> In fact, if this head unit reads NTFS drives (up till now most manufactures only read fat32), this will be the new hot ticket on DIYMA. Thats right, I am calling the trend. Now only time will tell if I am right
> 
> Even if this head unit doesn't read NTFS, it will still be the hot setup with a large drive formated in fat32


It's 2 way + sub mate, not 3 way + sub.


----------



## Bayboy

May be that is what is confusing some by stating 3-way. A 3-way + sub would be also considered 4-way. This the Pioneer does not do! Still more than the competition within it's price bracket. I think that's where the original comparison in this thread was made, price not features.

Then again when you add the needed processor to go with the CDA-117 that price range may not be considered the same....


----------



## WLDock

rton20s said:


> Call me crazy, but that 970 looks virtually identical to the DEH-80PRS. I think it is just the way the studio shots are lit and photographed. I haven't dig through the Japanese site enough to see if the specs are identical or not.


 Yeah, they look the same but the Japan site really SELLS the product. More details, better and more photos, etc. The presentation of the product is what I was talking about when I said "they make their product look nice." The deck still looks just OK to me....not much besides the P99, Denon, etc looks better than the 800PRS to me...not that that means anything to anyone else...





Angrywhopper said:


> I was super excited about this headunit! Actually.. I still am, but fukk it I'm buying a 99rs.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You know...I'm having a time trying to figure out where to put an Audio Control 24XS in my install so that I can run a 4-way with the 800PRS. I might go for a P99 myself at some point? I guess I am thinking the same thing? Will see how things work out.




rton20s said:


> BY the way, if that DEH-970 actually is the identical unit for the Japanese market, there is a ton of information on the Japanese site WLDock linked to. Including the fact that the fourth set of RCAs (in) can be used as an additional input for the head unit. It also has information on the crossover frequencies and slopes. Probably a ton more info, and definitely worth taking a look and trudging your way through the Japanese text.


Yeah, that was my point...they sure do offer much more and do a better job with the Japan site....and yes...I used GOOGLE TRANSLATE to see that the extra set of RCA jacks is for an AUX input also.


----------



## rton20s

I am not one bit surprised to see more/better information on the Japanese site in comparison to the US site. That is Pioneer’s domestic market. Even of the DEH-970 isn’t already released in Japan, it will most likely get released before the US version (DEH-80PRS). I do wish that Pioneer USA would take a few cues from their Japanese counterpart’s website and offer up some of the same information. 

And while I don’t fault you for your opinion on the DEH-80PRS, everyone has their own unique perspective. If you’ve already got an 800PRS, you might not see a reason to switch (notice I did not say upgrade). But if you are coming in with a fresh build, it is hard to deny the feature set and value presented by the DEH-80PRS. Sure, it has some drawbacks, but overall I think it is probably one of the hottest things to come out of CES this year. 

Personally, I was having a very hard time selecting a head unit before CES. I was waffling back and forth between trying to go to a HU that could get me active, or one with the multi-media features I wanted. Then as I researched what was out there in head units, almost everything pointed me to an external processor, or a DEX-P99RS. With the 80PRS, I can pick up a decent SQ HU for under $400 with no need initially for an external processor. And if the need really arises for multimedia options I can pick up a second HU and use the RCA in on the rear of the 80PRS. Or even just pick up an LCD screen and a 30 pin to composite cable for my iPhone.


----------



## nubz69

nismos14 said:


> It's 2 way + sub mate, not 3 way + sub.


My bad, doesn't change my statement though.


----------



## nubz69

Bayboy said:


> Sony.... well is still being Sony. Damn Xplod blew up in their face and has just about ruined their reputation. Sadly enough, they continued to stick around the Xploded debris for too long and their products have taken a seat next to other failed brands found on your local Pep Boys shelves. Yes the puns was intentional.


I have to disagree with you there completely. Sony has been making huge jumps forward on it's head units in the past two years. Just look at the CDX-GT660UP - 7 band eq, time alignment, 5 crossover points, 3 slope selections, 3 preouts, etc. Who else is giving all that for $149?

Don't listen to CDS? Grab the DSX-S310BTX and hook up your iPod/iPhone/Android/Blackberry and get the same features + bluetooth.

Sony has come a long way since they dropped the Xplod branding.


No active 2-way + sub though


----------



## avanti1960

This head unity looks quite appealing although I will likely not take the plunge- I was looking for a unit with this functionality last September and purchased the CDA 117 because pioneer did not have a cost effective alternative. 
For a variety of reasons I returned the CDA 117 and bought the Pioneer 8300UB which has everything I need to run a nice passive setup with 5-channel amp. I am now looking into the HD radio module that the 8300UB supports. We have a number of HD stations in the Chicago area and I have heard some of them and they sound outstanding. 
If the 80PRS supported the HD add-on module I would have bought the (2) together. 
I doubt I would realize enough noticeable SQ improvement to justify the cost and forgo the HD compatibility- running passive- although the improved multi function interface knob with lever controls is certainly an attractive option vs. the poorly executed mini satellite dish that the 8300UB calls an interface knob. 
I doubt it would have made the unit significantly more costly to include the HD module support connection- \
chances are there are more like me who have or like having the HD radio option and would have upgraded to this unit had it been compatible. Too bad.


----------



## t3sn4f2

I'm dying to see the manual. I have a bookmark to what it's address should be when published, I check it daily and no dice yet.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Unassigned-Content/Manuals/DEH-80PRS+OWNERS+MANUAL


----------



## rton20s

It really is a bit of a frustration, but much of the information that will make it in to the manual is available on the Japanese site. Just make sure you check all of the tabs, and each of the sections within the tabs. Some of the text is not translated as it is part of an image. And the translations can seem a little bit odd as well since they are computer generated, but there is a lot of information there to decipher. 

DEH-970 Japan


----------



## t3sn4f2

rton20s said:


> It really is a bit of a frustration, but much of the information that will make it in to the manual is available on the Japanese site. Just make sure you check all of the tabs, and each of the sections within the tabs. Some of the text is not translated as it is part of an image. And the translations can seem a little bit odd as well since they are computer generated, but there is a lot of information there to decipher.
> 
> DEH-970 Japan


Thanks, would you happen to know if that unit at least lets you control an idevice from the device and from the deck simultaneously like the P99RS?


----------



## rton20s

I don't think there is a definitive answer yet. And my Japanese is a little rough. If you go to the link from my last post, then go to the second tab, and the bottom section. Then scroll down it shows that you can control the iPod/iPhone directly when connected. 

Because on the US site it says that you have "limited" control of the iDevice directly from the head unit, I am hopeful you could control from either/or. Again, until that manual is released or someone from Pioneer chimes in, it is all speculation.


----------



## Drizzy

I just bought a P99rs, will most likely get one of these as well for my gf's car  Might as well go 2 way+sub for hers with some T/A:kiss:


----------



## nismos14

I'm pretty sure it will control either or, not both, most decks are setup that way.


----------



## ozzynichols

Now that I've read about the DSP capabilities of the DEH-80PRS it appears to smoke the PXA-H100, especially in the EQ section (not sure about the crossover increments yet obviously). My only question is does the 24bit DAC apply to music files in the iPod like it does with the iDA-X305S? I imagine most of you experienced SQ guys don't care much, but it's important to me.


----------



## t3sn4f2

ozzynichols said:


> Now that I've read about the DSP capabilities of the DEH-80PRS it appears to smoke the PXA-H100, especially in the EQ section (not sure about the crossover increments yet obviously).* My only question is does the 24bit DAC apply to music files in the iPod like it does with the iDA-X305S?* I imagine most of you experienced SQ guys don't care much, but it's important to me.


Generic answer = Yes

Very advanced, schematic and/or measurement dependent answer = We might see when the unit comes out.


----------



## rton20s

ozzynichols said:


> Now that I've read about the DSP capabilities of the DEH-80PRS it appears to smoke the PXA-H100, especially in the EQ section (not sure about the crossover increments yet obviously).


No guarantee that these are the same crossover options as we will have, but there is a good chance that the DEH-970 is the same as the DEH-80PRS. 

DEH-970 Crossovers

A little over half way down. Ranging from 25 Hz - 12.5 kHz with -6, -12, -18, -24 DB slopes on the high and mid, and -12, -18, -24, -30, -36 DB slopes on the low.


----------



## Bayboy

nubz69 said:


> I have to disagree with you there completely. Sony has been making huge jumps forward on it's head units in the past two years. Just look at the CDX-GT660UP - 7 band eq, time alignment, 5 crossover points, 3 slope selections, 3 preouts, etc. Who else is giving all that for $149?
> 
> Don't listen to CDS? Grab the DSX-S310BTX and hook up your iPod/iPhone/Android/Blackberry and get the same features + bluetooth.
> 
> Sony has come a long way since they dropped the Xplod branding.
> 
> 
> No active 2-way + sub though




I still stand my ground on Sony. Now understand back in the days of cassettes I was an avid fan of Sony. Compared to other brands Sony offered better quality specs & sound for the money with their headunits. I still have a Sony dual cassette home piece that was used to dub compact discs on metal tapes just for the car. Both were high quality and sounded great for that era so it's not like I completely hate Sony.

On the other hand we are not talking about a few dumbed down features that others have offered regardless of budget like Kenwood. We are talking about a package which it's price range doesn't break into the upper tier. The CDX-GT660UP does not offer TRUE t/a! It offers presets which is hardly any better than Sony's other DSO feature. It works slightly, but sorry, no stride! The DSX-S310BTX is slightly better with actual t/a and a limited 7 band parametric, but still misses the mark when it comes to the sub adjustments. Not to mention like you already pointed out, both miss the main aspect to really get in the ball game: no full active xover...... Still see no stride! 

What I see is a desperate attempt to catch up to other brands that's been there done that for very low cost including even Alpine (Imprint), Clarion, & JVC. In fact even the KD-SH1000 easily beats those Sony units. In order for Sony to really make strides, they need to step up to the plate. Not half step, but step all the way up. You have to consider that most who want the features mentioned are looking for as much control as possible. They are also somewhat of an elite crowd and those decks you mentioned won't cut it. Most who don't care or even know what t/a & true 3-way are could care less about those Sony features or any other brand that offers more including Pioneer. We are talking apples vs oranges here so that point is moot.


Now I did touch on what I feel is important is Pioneer's offering will more than likely snatch quite a lot of sales within it's range. Why is that important? Hopefully because it will force others to come to the table with something comparable or even better to help even the playing field. So it's not all about Pioneer and people riding their jock. It's about somebody finally trying to give the people what they want which should make others follow suit. That has yet to be seen, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## ozzynichols

rton20s said:


> No guarantee that these are the same crossover options as we will have, but there is a good chance that the DEH-970 is the same as the DEH-80PRS.
> 
> DEH-970 Crossovers
> 
> A little over half way down. Ranging from 25 Hz - 12.5 kHz with -6, -12, -18, -24 DB slopes on the high and mid, and -12, -18, -24, -30, -36 DB slopes on the low.


Thanks for the link. That still looks better that the PXA-H100. I've had a passive/active 4-way in 2 of my cars with passive comps in the kicks and active midbasses in the doors off a 4 channel (or 5 channel) amp with my CD7100 and now CD7200. I've always felt that this can be a good way to get some of the benefits of a 3 way front stage on a budget with just 1 or 2 amps. I would think they would consider this when designing a moderately priced SQ deck/processor. Maybe I'm a loner on this one. At least it gets a lot closer than the PXA-H100 which, from what i understand, wont allow the high channels to drop below 3.1k Hz. That's why I never pulled the trigger on that one (my amps crossovers don't suit either). Oh well, this is all just speculation I guess. That's why I won't buy anything anymore unless I can download the manual first! We'll see what happens...I have no patience.


----------



## Bayboy

I believe the reason a 4-way crossovers is not offered is because the 80PRS seems to be targeting a certain level of simplicity as well as price. Thus the reduced width of the EQ, lack of copper chassis, & 3-way instead of 4-way compared to it's bigger sibling. If would be crazy for Pioneer to create a death match within it's own ranks, and I think it's only fair to leave the more complex features on the P99.

Only a few people will see the need to go 4-way active. That requires a lot of control as well as making the build slightly more complex. Even still the way around that for less could be as simple as a small component set or coax for that matter if you are willing to include passives in your system. I've done this at one time and it was very nice. Now I don't see the need since I don't have the real estate up top or down in the kicks to make it worth it. I've been just as happy with large format tweeters in the dash, midwoofers in the doors, and a sub in the hatch. Running a DQX has done wonders to make it all come together except one thing.... no time alignment! I'd gladly would give up some EQ bands to have t/a as 31 bands L/R is nice, but not necessary for the basics. 16 band L/R is fair compromise.


----------



## kyheng

Well, with my current P9 combo that comes with 31-band EQs also I used 0 from them, haha....
Reason I go for this combo is because it don't have pico fuse issues and I wanted to try 4-way....


----------



## atxtrd

Any word on a release date?


----------



## robert_wrath

atxtrd said:


> Any word on a release date?


Likely March/April.


----------



## Bayboy

I'm wanting that headunit real bad, but am still apprehensive on the full story since there has been a lack of info in the US. I'm sure there will be plenty to go around after the initial sales so it may be wise to wait and see if there are any issues that arise. Not sure if I can hold out myself...:blush:


----------



## kyheng

Yup, that's right... Wait and see....


----------



## hornedfrog2000

The press release on the 9th of Jan said it would be released April. All the other new stuff from them is coming out like Feb 21st I think it said. That press release also said it would have a msrp of $350, so I'm wondering which is it? The site says $420 msrp.


----------



## kizz

$350-$420, either way that isn't too bad. I wouldn't be surprised if it was $420 though.


----------



## rton20s

MSRP (Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price) is $419. MAP (Minimum Advertised Price) is $350. Most vendors should be closer to the $350 if they plan to move units.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

rton20s said:


> MSRP (Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price) is $419. MAP (Minimum Advertised Price) is $350. Most vendors should be closer to the $350 if they plan to move units.


Are you a dealer? I think the 880s were selling around $270 shipped on ebay before everyone ran out of stock of them. Can't wait to grab this new one though. I noticed you have to buy a seperate mic for the auto eq too...


----------



## kyheng

I think the initial street price will be at $350-420... Then will come down after a year or 2.... This is usually what will happen on electronics....


----------



## Bayboy

If you've never seen a dealer's price list for Pioneer products I can tell you now they don't make much off of them. Pioneer stands pretty firm in price even when buying individual vs buying lots. The lot's discount wasn't very much at all to really make a difference. Time will tell what the true price will be, but it won't make any difference to those that want yet can't afford the P99. The P80 is next best thing at the moment.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## its_bacon12

Looks like the Clarion CZ702 designers were Tron: Legacy fans

I'm in for one. Looks pretty killer.


----------



## kyheng

Well, the only way to get cheap Pioneer HUs will be taking under water set.... Like in Malaysia, there's really have such sets and it is about $30-50 cheaper....


----------



## Bayboy

If you pay close attention to Pioneer products in the US you rarely ever see a price difference amongst authorized retailers except for sales. I have even noticed that Walmart will sometimes have a slightly different model # for the exact same item so price matching won't work. I assume they're getting a special deal for mega bulk buys to distribute amongst their stores, but at Pioneer's discretion to keep prices intact elsewhere. Dirty tactic!!! Lol


Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

Yup, it is normal for a company to protect their dealers... Like Alpine in Aisa countries, we can buy such under water sets(to make it clear on this, I stay in Malaysia and buying a Hong Kong set) and when sh*t happens, there's only 1 authorized service center in each country. When they see such situation, everything will be charged double....
As for Pioneer, I have >10 service centers in my country and they don't bother much on this issue... Sh*t happens, you send to them and they repair it without charging double....


----------



## rton20s

kyheng,

When you use the term "under water" I assume you mean something like gray market? Essentially an unauthorized dealer getting product from an authorized distributor outside of their region and then selling it at a reduced rate without any manufacturer support?


----------



## Bayboy

I would imagine that is gray market as well. People still will buy as long as some type of warranty is in effect. Difference between unauthorized dealer replacement vs authorized repairs. Some companies probably don't even care... just replace or service through an authorized repair facility regardless if gray market or not.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## hornedfrog2000

Most of the stuff from walmart that has a slightly different model number is actually different from other retailers stuff. If you look through the specs on the things they sell a lot of times it will have one less feature, so it's not really the same. Also, walmart can pretty much single handedly put a company out of business if they don't do what walmart wants. A lot of companies were forced to lower prices by going to china so they could keep selling to Walmart.


Edit:

Woofersetc has it for $370 on preorder + 20 shipping though :/

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10395-deh-80prs-pioneer-sound-quality-cd-receiver-deh80prs.aspx


----------



## Bayboy

I wouldn't doubt the missing one function/feature deal. I've bought a few from Walmart in the past and never really missed anything important. Thing is it was done just to serve Walmart so price matching couldn't be done which is kind of jacked up, but still like I stated earlier, Pioneer price differences vary only so much to the point it really doesn't matter.

My father once had a business license so I talked him into getting one of those catalogs where you had to have a tax # and whatever to get stuff at a certain price for resale. You'd be surprised how much crap you actually had to buy to get any sort of discount. So when these brick & mortar shops say they don't make much on the gear in order to still compete I truly believe it. 


Ahaaa... somebody's already taking preorders huh? Price is about right from what we mentioned earlier with Pioneer's msrp. Figured a preorder was coming soon, so I'd say we should expect to see the first units roll out in a short while. I think I will still wait for some reviews even though it won't change my mind much. Plenty of those units will sell so I want to wait and see if any bugs arise. Plus I'm thinking I'm going to stick with an authorized dealer on this since it's no slouch in cost. Might be a little bit higher, but I want the utmost support with returns & warranty. As far as the pico fuse deal, they may have dealt with that. Pioneer is great when it comes to upgrading their products so let's keep our fingers crossed.


----------



## rton20s

So funny to see woofersetc listing it for pre-order when they aren't an authorized dealer and the product isn't even released yet. Especially with them listing it above MAP. In my opinion, you would have to be nuts to pay anything above MAP to an non-authorized dealer. I'd happily pay MSRP to an authorized dealer like Crutchfield (usually with install accessories thrown in) just for a little peace of mind. Especially, considering this is pretty much a first generation product.


----------



## Bayboy

Well one thing to remember.... it's not like someone is plotting to hijack a truckload of gear before it's even produced, then sell gray market to get busted. :laugh: That's probably Pioneer's way of getting rid of excess, less than perfect (by their QC standards) gear, or even wiggle out of warranty liabilities. Other companies do it too. Much easier to pass the buck on to someone else while you still collect some fat dough on the side. Then all the while your product is mass tested.

I don't doubt too many conspiracies these days....:laugh:


----------



## kyheng

Yeah, is grey market products..... 
I still remember when I changed my DEQ-P9's circuit board(which bought from other country), the SC never ask much question and just change it and charge at normal price... 
I guess Pioneer won't bother much when the warranty are over.... But for newer models, I think they will still bother on this and don't let you claim warranty on grey area market's stuffs....
I'll take it this way : Pioneer's products will last you for a certain period a time, as long as we install it properly(except the pico fuse)... Pico fuse issue can be solved easily when you can locate the circuit...


----------



## ZAKOH

Bayboy said:


> Only a few people will see the need to go 4-way active. That requires a lot of control as well as making the build slightly more complex



It would have been awesome if the unit had two more outs for the rear fill, and perhaps L-R difference signal option. There are a lot of people who would like 2-way active front, rear fill, and subwoofer.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

You keep talking about the MAP, but I have only seen the suggested price as being both 350-420$ where are you getting your MAP from? Also, woofersetc.com might be kind of shady with not being an authorized dealer, but all that means is they are buying them through an authorized dealer (whether it is a fake account the hold, then funnel it through the website), or they are just getting it from friends in the industry. I fully expect them to warranty it as they state. I had my dog eat a set of Morel components I bought from them once, I called them, and they hooked me up incredibly well on a higher end set.


----------



## CDjunkie

lol. I'm going to try that. My woofer ate my woofer.


----------



## Bayboy

ZAKOH said:


> It would have been awesome if the unit had two more outs for the rear fill, and perhaps L-R difference signal option. There are a lot of people who would like 2-way active front, rear fill, and subwoofer.




I suppose that would be nice, but we could wish for a lot of different scenarios that will probably never happen. To me it seems like they tried to produce a headunit that has very little competition even within it's own line plus price range. If you added 4-way that would almost compete with the top of the line P99 for far too less money. Just about anyone can afford the P99 if they really wanted to, just most don't see the need to spend that much on a sole headunit. I feel more at ease spreading that kind of dough throughout the rest of the chain where it may matter most. 


The rear fill I take it is not as desired with the demographics the P80 targets. I know I'm far from being a spokesman for the majority, but I haven't used rear fill in years and truly don't miss it. It did seem to add a nice richness in filling the cabin, but seemed like too much trouble to run without having some sort of bandpass filter available. I often tried it with sole midwoofers that matched the fronts for uniform tonality. Just faded out from the headunit. Worked fairly good, but never had t/a available to perfect it. I suppose if you started adding those little features you would enter in trying to compete with more competent processors. Not to mention you would need to make it more flexible so it can go either 3-way+sub or 2-way+rear fill+sub to keep the headunit a viable option. I see a whopper of a price jump for that circuitry. 

Personally I don't see using passives to achieve what you want as a negative. Using a good component set with prefab or custom passives for the front, but keeping the tweeter in very close proximity will only need an active high pass. Attain a viable voice matching coax set or midwoofers for the rear, then add a simple -6db passive filter. This is easily accomplished on just about any headunit with only front/rear active high pass + sub low pass + t/a so you could see where P80 sales would slump compared to using a lesser cost unit like Kenwood, Sony, etc.... If you remember, Pioneer has already tried this (without t/a though) with the front image enhancer (FIE) long ago. Was just a simple active low pass filter just on the rear channel. Now the question is why was that feature abandoned? Can only guess that it didn't help sales much to be worth continuing. 

Pioneer was smart in carving a little niche just for the P80 as it really has no competitors at this point in a single headunit. L/R 16 band EQ, 3-way xover, t/a is it's sole strengths and it's a shame no other company is trying to compete with just those three features without an added processor.


----------



## psychon

Clarion CZ702 also has 3way xovers, TA and an EQ (although not as robust as Pioneers 16 band)

Clarion U.S.A. | CZ702


----------



## rton20s

psychon said:


> Clarion CZ702 also has 3way xovers, TA and an EQ (although not as robust as Pioneers 16 band)
> 
> Clarion U.S.A. | CZ702


Correct. However, no one really knows for sure the quality of the TA on either unit yet either. Many assumptions are being made that the Pioneer TA will be the same as on the P99. And no one really knows on the CZ702. Will it be a good quality TA like Pioneers or will it be something most people end up complaining about like JVC / Kenwood and Sony?

That being said, if I were on a tighter budget, the CZ702 would definitely be toward the top of my list right now.


----------



## Bayboy

No it's not as robust as Pioneer's L/R 16 band, but it's suggested retail price isn't either! Haven't read the actual parametric frequency options, but 5 band is a good start especially if it has adjustable Q. A lot better than it's predecessor's 3 band. I have to applaud Clarion for picking up where the DRZ left off. Looks like we have a good contender with a price to match. This might be a good year for headunits yet! 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian Steele

Bayboy said:


> No it's not as robust as Pioneer's L/R 16 band


My current Pioneer has 16-band EQ - with the bands set exactly where I did't need them. I'm not too encouraged to buy into that arrangement again. Hopefully that 5-band parametric EQ is really versatile, e.g. allowing the user to set the bands at 1/3rd octave (or finer) steps.


----------



## Bayboy

Straight up.... don't you think that's asking a bit much? If you want 1/3 then it's going to cost more via headunit or add on processing of some sort. I will offer a solution in a minute for the finicky. 

Now I understand the dilemma of graphic, but parametric has it's cons too. Try playing with a DQX and you will become spoiled rotten which brings me to the Pioneer's defense. Now before anyone gets offended or on the defensive let me point out that not many use a EQ properly already. Now add L/R to the mix and it can really seem like just a gadget and this is not pointed at any particular individual so please don't get bent all out of shape with that statement. L/R EQ being a useless feature could not be further from the truth and if you have truly tried what I am about to link you already know.iu

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...888-help-my-soundstage-ate-my-windshield.html 

I have done this on my DQX and it was crazy!! Keep in mind I don't currently have t/a in the system with the DQX. I do have it in my work truck and t/a with a highly optioned 3 band parametric. It has it's merits no doubt. Anyways I used a RTA & trained ears to adjust the L/R and when done the result was amazing for a system without t/a. Yet, if you combine both t/a with a L/R EQ of good width you will have some real tuning capabilities! The price of the Pioneer just makes it a bit easier to swallow for a small sacrifice.

Now if you are finicky about still not having enough adjustability then the solution is simple. If you have the cash add the DQS to a 3-way + t/a headunit!! That simple.... In fact, if you want to truly beat that Pioneer for a bit more in price then get the new Clarion and find a good used DQS! Still far under P99's cost. Just make sure the Clarion has the xover & t/a features you want before that starts another debate. 


Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

I'd just conceder getting the 80PRS for the following reasons.

-It is a head unit which means it is easy to integrate in a car.
-It is a supposedly high quality variable preamp with source selection.
-It has a tuner, CD, hands-free bluetooth, SD card, AUX. (None of these are critical to me but since they can be had by almost any affordable means now a days, I'm glad they are included)
-It has a supposedly high quality high speed digital interface with iDevices
-It has a steering wheel control option
-It's aesthetically pleasing enough for me.
-It has, like any other head unit, a volume dependent loudness contour option which is invaluable in a car, IMO.

The rest? No need for it what so ever. I'll let an external processor handle that part.

Why not just go with the OEM head unit and plug the idevice into the aux in? Too much of an install headache if it can be avoided. Likely more expensive. Functionally a pain.


----------



## Brian Steele

t3sn4f2 said:


> The rest? No need for it what so ever. I'll let an external processor handle that part.


I don't want to use an external processor. Space is tight in my car, and I don't want to run power and RCAs for another box. Plus, I want to be able to make minor adjustments "on the fly".

An ideal deck for me with be a double-din unit that's a combination between the DEH-80PRS and a dbx Driverack PA+.


----------



## Bayboy

Brian Steele said:


> I don't want to use an external processor. Space is tight in my car, and I don't want to run power and RCAs for another box. Plus, I want to be able to make minor adjustments "on the fly".
> 
> An ideal deck for me with be a double-din unit that's a combination between the DEH-80PRS and a dbx Driverack PA+.


Okay people..... let's make Mr Steele eat those words. Make sure he doesn't get a 80PRS! Then he can be the cynical little kid nobody ever invites to parties so he winds up peeping through the windows at every birthday event with tears in his eyes. 

Better yet, we can do him like when Fred Flintstone joined Food Anonymous..... LMAO!!!


Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## sqnut

On the TA, if it's like the p-800, it's in steps of 0.5" or ~ 0.4ms. If it's like the p-99 then its 0.3" or ~ 0.25ms. Being able to TA in smaller steps will give your stage better cohesion. 

On the eq, yes a 1/3 octave is better than the 16 band L/R. But, you can still dial in pretty decent sound with 16 bands. My main issue with both is that, they are summed for one side. You don't have independent control on each driver. Very essential for managing issues like the beaming of mids and to trying and get a seamless blend between the mids and tweets. 

For normal users the 16 band is sufficient. I have always rated the p-800/880 above the 9887 and the eclipse 7200 for its ability to do L/R.


----------



## Bayboy

Hmmmm..... Sqnut, if you're thinking like me, then that last option I suggested would be a pretty fair deal for total control that can rival a processor. The DQS has wide EQ control over each driver and will still allow the headunit to function like normal. Not a bad trade-off. I may have to look into that if the Clarion proves to have a worthy xover & t/a....

Then again, by the time you do all that you'd probably be better off with a used MS8 on a basic headunit.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tao Jones

Is it me or does the picture of the DEH-970 look like it has an OEL display? As opposed to the 80prs with an LCD display?


----------



## Tao Jones

Nevermind, I just looked at the translated site and it's got variable illumination as well.. so it's LCD same the 80 prs. Oh well


----------



## trumpet

hornedfrog2000 said:


> You keep talking about the MAP, but I have only seen the suggested price as being both 350-420$ where are you getting your MAP from?


I haven't read the entire thread, but as a dealer I can say the $350 MAP is coming from Pioneer. The SRP of ~$419, which anyone can see on their web site, is also dictated by Pioneer.


----------



## doitor

Sent an email to Woofersetc customer service asking for a release date.



> Hello,
> 
> We do not have an exact release date, but we believe it should be released in April.
> 
> Thank you for your inquiry,
> 
> -Julian
> WoofersEtc.com


----------



## coffee_junkee

The photos off the Japanese website make it look more refined. Can't wait until I get my hands on one to try...

Clarion unit would have looked 10x better with a more modern display. Sad that my 14 year old DRX9375R has a better screen...


----------



## ZAKOH

Gotta love the super-long discussion threads about product that hasn't shipped yet. This one will be 20 pages long before the product ships to first customer. ;p


----------



## ChrisB

ZAKOH said:


> Gotta love the super-long discussion threads about product that hasn't shipped yet. This one will be 20 pages long before the product ships to first customer. ;p


At least this one shouldn't top the MS-8 thread. That one went on for years and multiple pages before the product was actually shipped. IIRC, it is still going on.:laugh:


Also, as fate would have it, I am in the financial position to get something from the Pioneer Carrozzeria lineup from my cousin who is stationed in Okinawa and he is in Texas attending a training course. Dang the luck.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

Trumpet-

So that is what Pioneer has listed as the map for you dealers? Just wondering because the press release said the suggested price would be $350.


----------



## Bayboy

I wouldn't sweat the price so much. People are going to get it regardless though there will be slight variations in price depending on where you get it. Like stated earlier it's not like the dealers are going to make a killing off of it. Pioneer is stringent on cost. Any dealer would be a crazy to have a high markup.


----------



## trumpet

It says


> The DEH-80PRS will be available in April with a suggested price of $350.


 here in the press release, yet it says


> Suggested Price: $419.00


 on the product page. I really wish someone would take the HTML bold tags out of the page title. Anyway, my guess is somebody made a mistake and published the MAP as the SRP.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

trumpet said:


> It says here in the press release, yet it says on the product page. I really wish someone would take the HTML bold tags out of the page title. Anyway, my guess is somebody made a mistake and published the MAP as the SRP.



Oh, alright. I'm getting it either way. I was just curious if someone had some inside info. $350-400 not really a big difference. I loved my 880prs, just didn't like a few things they look to have fixed on this one.


----------



## rton20s

OK... This is the last time I will say this. If you can't understand after this, nothing is going to get through to you. $350 is the minimum advertised price. $420 is the manufacturer's suggested retail price. 

The same exact conflict between press release and product page on the website for the AVH-P8400BH generated the same question on Pioneer's FB page. Pioneer North America responded that the lower of the two figures published in the press release was the MAP and the higher of the two found on the website's product page was the MSRP.


----------



## Bayboy

Really now?!! I'm trying to understand why is 50-70 bucks such a big deal to anyone has already comitted to spending over $350?! This thread has gotten filled with nit pickers instead appreciating the point that we have a couple of new headunits that gives what we've been missing for a while...


----------



## Sulley

Bayboy said:


> Really now?!! I'm trying to understand why is 50-70 bucks such a big deal to anyone has already comitted to spending over $350?! This thread has gotten filled with nit pickers instead appreciating the point that we have a couple of new headunits that gives what we've been missing for a while...


I agree, $350 is a bangin' deal but I'm likely going to buy one in town and I know that I will pay over 400+tax for it.... With 13% provincial tax, I'm getting mighty close to the 500 dollar mark.

Any rumours on if there will be a pre-order? I'm getting pretty excited over this unit.


----------



## robert_wrath

This turned into a price debate. Wait till this stacks on eBay.


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy said:


> Really now?!! I'm trying to understand why is 50-70 bucks such a big deal to anyone has already comitted to spending over $350?! This thread has gotten filled with nit pickers instead appreciating the point that we have a couple of new headunits that gives what we've been missing for a while...



I agree. That is why I made the post I did. I was trying to put the pricing question to bed, so people could quit asking about it. We know what it is going to cost. 

What we don't know are all of the technical details that should be revealed when Pioneer finally makes the owner's manual available. Regardless, unless some major flaw is revealed, I will be selecting this as the head unit for my build.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

rton20s said:


> I agree. That is why I made the post I did. I was trying to put the pricing question to bed, so people could quit asking about it. We know what it is going to cost.
> 
> What we don't know are all of the technical details that should be revealed when Pioneer finally makes the owner's manual available. Regardless, unless some major flaw is revealed, I will be selecting this as the head unit for my build.


You didn't really answer anything. You made an assumption. This is why I asked how do you know? That is why you cannot answer how you know, because you do not know. You just assume that in a similar situation that the outcome would be the same. You don't know, so stop acting like you do. Show me some proof of where you get your info, or don't come in here swinging your wiener around like you know. 

Where is your proof?
Proof. Do you understand that? Proof? You have assumptions. I was asking for PROOF. You know, verifiable facts. So stfu.


----------



## rton20s

I'm not going to get into a pissing match over this. If it is that critical for you to know, I suggest you email your question to Pioneer directly, or ask them on their Facebook page. 

When you can present your "proof" that I was incorrect, I will make a public apology in this thread. In the mean time, lets drop the pricing questions, an focus on the features.


----------



## nismos14

Such women.


----------



## Bayboy

Okay..... time to start a blacklist! For those who want to nit pick & sway this thread, it will be forbidden for you to purchase the new Clarion & Pioneer. You will be exiled to the latest Boss headunit aisle! Only when you have humbled yourself will you be allowed to come before the committee and beg for 3-way w/ time alignment!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## WLDock

$350 MAP or $419 MSRP? Are we serious? Really? So now this has become "The $69 dollar DEH-80PRS price challenge thread!"

WOW...and just think...the 800PRS had a $600 MSRP

I guess I see why they had to get the price down for this market....:

Add this one to the books as a forum all time low.....

I guess this deck can't be released fast enough for some.....Heaven help us!


----------



## Bayboy

Ok, time to change topics...... 

Question: with the price range difference between the latest headunit competitors does anyone think the Clarion coupled with a used DQS make a viable option over the 80prs? I'll admit the Clarion is somewhat butt ugly, but if both have comparable xover & t/a features, the Clarion/DQS combo will have some awesome manual tuning capabilites.

Give me your thoughts....

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

So funny that people get so critical about any discussion of cost, yet it is a huge factor as to why there is so much excitement about the DEH-80PRS. And just to be clear, I was trying to answer a recurring cost question with the best information I had available. Cost isn't he biggest concern for me, as evidenced by my other contributions to this thread. Bottom line, the cost is going to be what the cost is going to be. Buy it if you think it is a good value, or find something else you think represents a better value. 

And Bayboy... Though you have been critical of the cost discussion, many of your posts speak directly to it. Including DEH-80PRS vs CZ702 + DQS. To me this question doesn't even exist unless cost is a concern. I will give my 2 cents though. Right now I think it is too early to tell. Once we get some feedback on the quality of the time alignment for both HUs as well as confirm the crossover points and slope capabilities we will be able to make that determination. 

If both have good time alignment and comparable crossovers, then yes, the CZ702 + DQS would definitely provide more control. Again, it comes back to cost though. Can you easily score a used DQS on the cheap? Maybe. If not, the DQS alone will likely cost you as much, if not more than the DEH-80PRS.


----------



## Bayboy

Rton20s please get your facts straight before you come at me with attacks based from lack of comprehension.

1. The debate that YOU involved yourself in was a price difference of a measly $70! I never mentioned that I was concerned whether or not what it would be as I already stated if someone wants it they will get it. I was not concerned what difference of price tag 80prs would have compared to where it was stated!

2. The cost factor I was involved with was on tier levels between it and it's sibling the P99!

3. When the Clarion was suggested as a competitor I gave notice to the major difference price between the two! 

4. I asked a valid question concerning what one has to offer (l/r eq) compared to getting a lesser costing unit, then adding the savings towards a DQS that has capabilities to eq INDIVIDUAL drivers that may far out rival the 80prs. My point was IF xover and t/a turned out to be comparable... That's IF and at this point do not care of your opinions since you want to try and include me in your rants.

Now I have said what I had to say, I'm off this thread, and am done acknowledging you at this point. You have a good day sir.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

1. I was simply posting the best information I had available. Yes, I made some educated guesses based on past pricing information from Pioneer as well as a direct response from Pioneer regarding an identical issue on another head unit announced at CES 2012. 

2. Understood, that this was part of the initial conversation. It still goes back to cost and value. Obviously one of the most important aspects of the DEH-80PRS. 

3. Exactly, another topic regarding cost/value. This time on the cheaper side of the coin rather than the more expensive. (P99RS). 

4. I never meant for any of my posts to come off as rants. Was I frustrated to see people continue to question $350/$420 just like other people obviously were? Yes. And maybe I did get a little salty. I've felt like crap for a couple days and am home now instead of at work earning money for the DEH-80PRS like I should be. 

For the record, I have contacted Pioneer directly to try and clear up the MAP vs MSRP issue so we don't have to wait for the actual product release. All I have tried to do in here is help point people to whatever information was currently available, and what I have attempted to do in contacting Pioneer. When I get this information, I will post it to the thread.


----------



## QuikWgn

FYI I called and spoke with a Crutchfield Advisor and per 'Sam' (the advisor's name) they will not be carrying the 80PRS. 

Also the Clarion CD transport is only 80dB SNR which is really mediocre and it says HPF/LPF only in the crossover section, "Built-in High Pass and Low Pass Filters" so I'm not sure its a true active 3 way. YMMV


----------



## t3sn4f2

QuikWgn said:


> FYI I called and spoke with a Crutchfield Advisor and per 'Sam' (the advisor's name) they will not be carrying the 80PRS.
> 
> Also the Clarion CD transport is only 80dB SNR which is really mediocre and it says HPF/LPF only in the crossover section, "Built-in High Pass and Low Pass Filters" so I'm not sure its a true active 3 way. YMMV


That is likely the head unit amp spec at 1 watt. Also, don't bother comparing or even looking at head unit spec like those, even if they are for the line out. They don't mean ****. Especially between companies.

Audio Specifications


----------



## rton20s

Just so we can finally put the pricing information to bed, I got official word from Pioneer North America via their FB page. I asked specifically about the price difference between the press release's $350 and the product page's $419. 

"...our press release lists the more commonly used Minimum Advertised Price (M.A.P.). More news on the release date and manual information will be available soon, stay tuned!"


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

A local shop took some footage from CES 2012, they talk a bit of the head unit towards the end.
CES_2012_Pioneer-final.mp4 - YouTube


----------



## CDjunkie

(3:50 - 4:36)







junkies unite!


----------



## ZAKOH

What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


----------



## frankmehta

Highly doubt it


----------



## Bayboy

ZAKOH said:


> What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


I don't see why not. It's all a matter of efficiency IMO. No I don't expect it to be as clean as an outboard amp, but if you need the extra power then it won't matter anyway. In a simple 3-way setup utilizing a small 4 channel for mids/sub or sub/amp the power should be enough to to outdo most stock systems.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## WLDock

ZAKOH said:


> What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


I am sure the specs are similar to the previous DEH-P800PRS:

22W×4 (50Hz to15000Hz) 5%THD,4 Ohm load,both channels driven 

Many modern decks are not bad....but why use "deck power" and "high end SQ" in the same sentence. Just get a nice small amp if you are serious. Something like those two DLS RA20 amps in the classified section is a start....you did say "High End SQ"....right?

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

After using Pioneer DEH-P01's mini amp and listened to my friend's KISS setup, I can say their amp(regardless of the HU or mini amp), they do sound better than some amps that having higher output power.... 
If were to compare, DEH-P01's mini amp are quite on par with Audison LRX6.9 and sound better than JL Audio A6450... The price is $150 vs $300(JL) or $600(Audison), but this is my personal view after using these 3 amps....

If thight on budget, I may consider using HU's speaker output for front stage and a monoblock for sub.... If not mistaken, you still have full active control using speaker outputs...


----------



## robert_wrath

ZAKOH said:


> What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


Slim to None. :laugh:


----------



## Wesayso

ZAKOH said:


> What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


I used HU power for a while on my tweeters with the P88 RSII and had no problems with it. I bought a seperate amp but did not notice any changes. Believe me I tried to hear it after getting a Genesis Series III Stereo 60.

Midranges I wouldn't do but tweeters? Why not. If it's like the P88 RSII the crossovers work on the RCA out and speaker out the same way.

In my opinion you don't need gazillion power on tweeters. My Genesis Stereo 60 has the gains all the way down and is at -5/-7 dB on the HU tweeter crossover gain. 

If you want a 3 way + sub just mount the tweeters at equal distance to the mids and use speaker out on tweet with a passive crossover cap and use an amp on the midrange. But it won't be flexable in crossover optimisation.

To bad I don't like the looks of this one. I would love the support of wave files from USB or card media. Flac would have been better though. Can't find more strong points than that though compared to the P88 RS II or 800/880 PRS. It does do wav from USB/Card media right?


----------



## rton20s

ZAKOH said:


> What are the odds that the amplifier section of this stereo is good enough for a high end SQ install to drive tweeters or maybe even small midranges?


Same question I'd had. Even started a thread on it a couple days ago. I'm probably going to attempt to drive the tweeters of of the HU initially. If they can't keep up with the amplified mids and sub then I'll seek out a small amp to power the tweeters. 

I don't know that I would go so far as attempting to power the mids off of the HU. Even though Pioneer shows the HU doing just that on their Japanese site. The Japanese site has a bit more detailed information on their equivalent of the HU, including the use of a LT 1358 Op Amp. Not that I know anything about Op Amps. Or that it says anything about the ability to successfully drive a pair of tweeters or mids.


----------



## pjc

Bayboy said:


> Okay..... time to start a blacklist! For those who want to nit pick & sway this thread, it will be forbidden for you to purchase the new Clarion & Pioneer. You will be exiled to the latest Boss headunit aisle! Only when you have humbled yourself will you be allowed to come before the committee and beg for 3-way w/ time alignment!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


I totally agree with this lol. Seriously though, whatever the price may be its going to offer alot for the money. Its not copper...but copper is rediculously priced these days so you cant expect it for this price. One of the downsides I do see is that it doesnt have P-Bus. But with dual USB I am sure that can easily be overcome with the ability to have many choices of inputs.
I talked to my old boss about this unit the other day. He said his MAP is $350 and that "suggested" is the $419 or whatever. Either way...it seems like its gonna be nice.


----------



## rton20s

pjc said:


> I talked to my old boss about this unit the other day. He said his MAP is $350 and that "suggested" is the $419 or whatever. Either way...it seems like its gonna be nice.


----------



## pjc

^^^ Point was that its gonna be nice regardless of the price that was under debate. Im so sorry if you felt ast though I was wasting your time.


----------



## bigugly78cj5

Well i think i have found my next Head unit for p9800bt... Ive seen this on ABT and pacific on preorder for around 350. ive paid more than that for a used 800prs on ebay(was stolen). Im pretty much tired of buying used decks with there imperfections...its nice to see a New HU with good quality features at a good price... Does anyone know if this unit is a premier unit and will come with there 2 year warranty or if they even offer that anymore?


----------



## nismos14

bigugly78cj5 said:


> Well i think i have found my next Head unit for p9800bt... Ive seen this on ABT and pacific on preorder for around 350. ive paid more than that for a used 800prs on ebay(was stolen). Im pretty much tired of buying used decks with there imperfections...its nice to see a New HU with good quality features at a good price... Does anyone know if this unit is a premier unit and will come with there 2 year warranty or if they even offer that anymore?


"Premier" no longer exists, they got rid of that like 2 or 3 years ago. Only stage 4 exists now, warranty will likely be 1 year.

For those that are discussing the tweeter power, first and foremost, the speaker outputs from the deck will correlate with the xovers of the preouts. I would not hesitate to run a full active setup off HU power. 22x4 is plenty of power on most setups.


----------



## tonesmith

Very excited about this. 

4th pico fuse blown in 14 years, this time it was not my fault, it just went crazy on me. After all those failures I promised to not buy Pioneer anymore but there is no headunit quite like the pioneers, I wish there were. I like the sound of Clarions, but I have never seen a Clarion with >5 bands on the eq.

If any dealers have prices, feel free to pm (shipped to 92408)


----------



## rton20s

So much for the possibility of running tweeters active off of the head unit. From the Pioneer North America FB page…

“The RMS power of the DEH-80PRS is 50W x 4. In Standard mode which is set for Front, Rear and Subwoofer, the crossovers can control both the speaker outputs and RCA outputs. In the Network mode which is set for High, Mid-range, and Subwoofer, the crossover only controls the RCA outputs. The crossover settings also change in network mode and offer a 16 band independent graphic EQ. Our team is constantly updating our site with the latest up to date information and we expect to have the manual posted soon.”


----------



## Wesayso

rton20s said:


> So much for the possibility of running tweeters active off of the head unit. From the Pioneer North America FB page…
> 
> “The RMS power of the DEH-80PRS is 50W x 4. In Standard mode which is set for Front, Rear and Subwoofer, the crossovers can control both the speaker outputs and RCA outputs. In the Network mode which is set for High, Mid-range, and Subwoofer, the crossover only controls the RCA outputs. The crossover settings also change in network mode and offer a 16 band independent graphic EQ. Our team is constantly updating our site with the latest up to date information and we expect to have the manual posted soon.”


Strange move.. that wasn't the case with my P88 RSII. Nobody would/could tell me if the crossover worked on the speaker outputs in network mode so I hooked up some full range to check. Turned out the crossovers were active on the speaker outs the same as on RCA. I can't think of a reason not to keep it that way. It may help those wanting some form of rear fill though as you can get a different range for that with a full range signal if you'd want that.


----------



## rton20s

I have to admit... I am taking it with a grain of salt. Even though he seemed quite clear on the way the crossovers and outputs functioned, I am still pretty skeptical of the 50W x 4 RMS. That just seems crazy high to me.


----------



## atxtrd

Sign me up! Combined with my Polk SR 6500's, Zed Deuce and Gladius I will be content for a little while. Hell I'd pay the 350 without giving it a second thought. It kils me that there are people who want all the features and benefits but expect it to be priced like a Dual deck. Hell they can even leave the onboard amps out as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## robert_wrath

Still debatable between the new Pioneer or Eclipse CD7200MKII. Which would you prefer?


----------



## nismos14

I think that info is wrong, and the deck is not gonna be 50x4 rms haha


----------



## kyheng

Wesayso said:


> Strange move.. that wasn't the case with my P88 RSII. Nobody would/could tell me if the crossover worked on the speaker outputs in network mode so I hooked up some full range to check. Turned out the crossovers were active on the speaker outs the same as on RCA. I can't think of a reason not to keep it that way. It may help those wanting some form of rear fill though as you can get a different range for that with a full range signal if you'd want that.


Well, most people prefer to have big number outputs, they never spend time on the HU's speaker out's power....


----------



## rton20s

atxtrd said:


> Hell they can even leave the onboard amps out as far as I'm concerned.


I agree. If they aren’t going to provide the crossover control on the speaker level outputs, why even have them there? Who would be buying this head unit and not planning to use all of the “SQ” features that are apparently only available through the RCA? I would think anyone not needing active crossovers and time alignment would be money ahead selecting the DEH-P9400BH. 



nismos14 said:


> I think that info is wrong, and the deck is not gonna be 50x4 rms haha


You and I are on the same page. It could even very well be the same on-board amp as the 9400 mentioned above. In which case, it would be 22w x 4 RMS. Honestly, it kind of took the wind out of my sails when I read the first portion of Pioneers response, because I am 99% sure that the RMS output is NOT 50W x 4. It made me question everything else they had to say after. 

I wish they would hurry up and at least publish the manual.


----------



## t3sn4f2

It's probably the same chip amp that the MS-8 uses. 

http://www.st.com/internet/com/TECHNICAL_RESOURCES/TECHNICAL_LITERATURE/DATASHEET/CD00002905.pdf

Page 4: Output power @ 1% THD = 22 watts


----------



## nismos14

Calm down guys, I really thing the info is completely wrong.


----------



## rton20s

I don't think anyone is really excited over the matter. The question was asked on the FB page and Pioneer answered. I shared what they had to say. I think most of us agree that at least the power output information is incorrect. 

We'll have to wait until they publish the manual, or possibly until the product is actually released to know for sure.


----------



## kyheng

Pioneer Pioneer IC SIP | PAL007B | Pioneer
Pioneer Electronics (USA) Inc. Parts & Accessories Online - Part Number: PAL007B Information
Someone talking about Pioneer HU's speaker amp?


----------



## t3sn4f2

Dunno if you guys saw this when the Japanese 90prs's page was linked the other day, but here some details from that page.

Google Translate

Can't link specific pages though, just the product's main page. But just look within the boarders and you'll find everything below plus many more details.


Road EQ?:

"Road noise while driving, to keep the constantly changing road and driving conditions such as changes in speed, volume equalizer general operations and is not available. "Special-corrected real-time ASL f" is analyzed in real time while driving and road noise that occurs, the volume, as well as automatic compensation by equalizer dedicated to quality. Maintain a comfortable listening comfort."


Turn off internal amp ala Alpine for lower noise:

"By shutting down when using an external amplifier built-in amplifier, the output signal to achieve more clean "feature built-in amplifier OFF" has been adopted."


Rear AUX in not just front minijack, with high/low source level adjuster:

"Audio inputs on RCA, will be able to play high quality audio from other audio devices. 

RCA output level is above the maximum 1V ※, if you connect an external device with no volume control function, H the RCA switch (High) is set to please."


Simultaneous iPod control from ipod and head unit! YES! (Siri music navigation anyone?):

"iPod and iPhone music playback and, in addition to operations in the main unit can be operated from the iPod. iPod/iPhone. It also supports applications to play music from iPod / iPhone."










Plus App support in this mode means you should be able to use music subscription apps like MOG which let you download to the device at 320kbps CBR MP3 for only $10 a month.


"The amplifier 
最大出力:50 W×4 *Maximum* output: 50 W × 4"


----------



## nismos14

You could turn the internal amps off on the 880/800 too.


----------



## nc0110

I got 3way crossover, time alignment, and usb for 115 when i bought a clarion dxz775usb off ebay buuutt.... This new pioneer is really really nice. i like the sd card and the possibility of flac support. it looks a LOT better than my current unit too... Then someone posted about the new clarion at 250msrp....wow, that hurts....lol


----------



## t3sn4f2

No flac. Wma, AAC, mp3, and wav only. Unless you mean via a firmware update, which I wouldn't hold my breath on.


----------



## kyheng

wav are quite good, quite near to lossless but the size......


----------



## tonesmith

You have to listen in a car with the windows up, engine off and no one talking to hear the difference between flac and WAV. But audiophiles have convinced themselves otherwise.


----------



## kyheng

I believe that, only dumb will claim themself as audiophiles....


----------



## The Dude

Someone mentioned they did not like the feel of this deck (must have been at CES I assume), does anyone know if this deck has the 7 way rotary commander volume knob? My older Premier deck has this, makes it very tough to use while driving. Thanks.


----------



## kyheng

^^That's the reason I not that like newer models that having this button.... looks cheap.... But again, this is more on personal taste...


----------



## The Dude

kyheng said:


> ^^That's the reason I not that like newer models that having this button.... looks cheap.... But again, this is more on personal taste...


For sure. This is my old deck: 









Trying to drive and use the deck when they have one knob trying to handle so many functions is a frustrating process...


----------



## kyheng

Ok, comparing to DEX-P9(if you don't have the remote), which is better? 
Anyway, when I'm driving, I usually use the remote to control everything, safer....


----------



## avanti1960

the DEH-80PRS has a push knob and rotary levers- 
DEH-80PRS - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA 

I assume that with the levers one does not need to control the knob as if it were a joystick. I have the multi function joystick on my 8300UB unit and it is not horrible but occasionally very annoying. 

BTW Abt electronics pre-order price is 349. That is too much of a deal to pass up.


----------



## CDjunkie

...unless you want $345.95 at pacific stereo 

I think I'll wait till it exists first


----------



## kyheng

Well, for any new product launched, for the first few months, it will be sold for MSRP.... Then after a while only the price will come down....


----------



## simplicityinsound

I dont think it goes.against the 117....as the 117 doesnt do.anything for running active systems...more like p99 lite or.800/880 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk


----------



## avanti1960

man i wish this thing would pop already! 

right now the only thing i need to correct in my setup is multi-band EQ with independent L/R adjustment so I can really center the image. 

i'm also looking at the P99rs but from the manual it looks like a huge PITA to adjust each band L/R with test tones, especially with the P99 U/I. 

The independent 16 band EQ on the 80PRS should be enough for what i'm looking for no?


----------



## Bayboy

I'm interested in the unit or Clarion too, but after some extensive reading on other threads that included some very important info (thanks Andy and others!!) regarding what you are seeking then I'm not so sure it is that good of a solution as we are hyping it to be. Sure it offers much more than most headunits in it's price range, but for maybe $100 more a MS-8 has a great advantage. 

Unless you are bent on having your solutions compiled into a single headunit, I'd take a heavy read on this thread to help determine how far you need to go:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/11579-flat-response.html

Now please don't get me wrong people...:blush: I'm just as ecstatic about new products that suit our needs, especially the comeback of viable headunits. It's just that in order to target certain aspects that some are looking for there's a degree of processing that becomes almost impossible for the average person (like myself) to overlook. I don't think that headunit will cover enough for installs that are severely handicapped by speaker locations & reflections like my boxy S10. Right now the DQX I'm using is much better than a bare bones headunit, amp, & speakers, but I can tell there's much more control needed for individual drivers and I'm not so sure the new units will cover that.  However, for others than have room to maximize their install it should work very good.


----------



## sqnut

For me, the best post in that flat response thread is on the last page.


----------



## nismos14

Uh ok? Which post?


----------



## jstoner22

nismos14 said:


> "Premier" no longer exists, they got rid of that like 2 or 3 years ago. Only stage 4 exists now, warranty will likely be 1 year.




That is what I thought as well. It seems they still offer the premier name on select products with a 2year warranty though.

PRS-D1200SPL - Premier Competition-Level SPL Class D Mono Amplifier with 2400 Watts Max. Power | Pioneer of Canada - English

http://www.pioneerelectronics.ca/POCEN/Car/Amplifiers/PRS-Series/PRS-A900

regardless, almost the entire line-up is 1yr warranty now...even all the Stage 4 stuff unfortunately.


----------



## Bayboy

nismos14 said:


> Uh ok? Which post?


X2

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## subwoofery

sqnut said:


> For me, the best post in that flat response thread is on the last page.


That would be Chad's post I suppose... 

Kelvin


----------



## Bayboy

Probably, but there was other info that was more revealing to me besides the getting flat. I personally don't care for flat myself. The posts that Andy made were very interesting reminding me of the revamp I know I need to do. It will involve switching some gear, driver location, and getting some t/a.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

Well, music are dynamic, how to get flat?


----------



## ErinH

kyheng said:


> Well, music are dynamic, how to get flat?


Do what?


----------



## CDjunkie

all your bass are belong to us


----------



## Bayboy

kyheng said:


> Well, music are dynamic, how to get flat?


You really need to read the whole thread to get the main point. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## sqnut

subwoofery said:


> That would be Chad's post I suppose...
> 
> Kelvin


 lucky guess?? Seriously though you cant fight nature. I've been tuning and tweaking for about four years now. But the sound in the car was NEVER right (when bench marked against my home 2ch) till I fully understood the impact of the FM curves. Aligning my FR to the curves has given me the best sound I have ever had in the car. You still have to tweak for a lot of things sure but these curves help a lot. I have tried a flat response and that does not work.


----------



## kyheng

bikinpunk said:


> Do what?


Getting flat response....


----------



## ErinH

what does that have to do with dynamicism of a recording? They are two unrelated things. A song is mastered and mixed to be dynamic or not. 
The FR shape used to bring out certain things is not related to the way the cd was made. Frequency response is on its own...
Besides, if you make your curve so as to "add dynamics"... well, you've blown the purpose of a reference playback system. Signal in = signal out. Anything that changes it, changes the way the music is delivered to your ear (ie: preference). I don't care if someone wants to tune to a preference; you just have to acknowledge that you're doing that.


----------



## kyheng

That's why I never let installer touch my system....
Also, in this world, there's no standard reference.... My reference won't be same as yours....


----------



## Bayboy

kyheng said:


> That's why I never let installer touch my system....
> Also, in this world, there's no standard reference.... My reference won't be same as yours....




Unless you're competing.... then there is a standard reference which you're system will be judged by called trained hearing.

Personally, I could care less about whose reference states or determines whatever because I don't compete. Trying to extract the most details out of the music I listen to, but still have some sort of liveliness is most important to ME. Unfortunately this involves some sacrifice since not all recordings are on an even plane. There's always a certain level of end user tweaking that needs to be done depending on the genre and/or studio that produced the music. I've even noticed that on some albums where different producers, mixer, or engineers were used per song. Then again it may not be how it was recorded, but how we may want it to sound to our own ears.

From what I gathered from Andy's posts in the linked thread seemed to suggest "get flat" before you can really add your own tastes. You need to adjust each side or individual drivers first to get things even, then afterwards adjust the system as a whole. Sounds familiar? Pretty much the same way the MS-8 approaches it, but with much more complexity. The user 31 band eq is just icing on the cake for adjusting per listening session. I've tried that similar tactic on the DQX after reading that link, and it seems to work pretty good except my icing is simple headunit PEQ adjustments. Now I have my doubts that I need one of those new headunits as I already have more tuning power using the DQX just without t/a. Instead I need to work on better driver implementation. If there's more of an improvement to be made beyond that, then the MS-8 or other processor would suit that, not one of those headunits. They actually would have been a step down.


----------



## ozzynichols

Bayboy said:


> From what I gathered from Andy's posts in the linked thread seemed to suggest "get flat" before you can really add your own tastes. You need to adjust each side or individual drivers first to get things even, then afterwards adjust the system as a whole.


Yep. A few people I have talked to over the years have gotten bent pretty quick when I talk about using pink noise and an RTA to achieve a flat frequency response before I even have a chance to explain that it should be the starting point for finding the settings that suit your personal tastes.

I also wonder if the L/R 16 band EQ will be the only way to access the EQ. I like the fact that even when my buddy tunes his PXA-H100 he still has bass and treble controls at the deck. Making simple adjustments to my CD700's 7-band parametric EQ at a red light is a pain and throws off my "permanent settings. Damn, they need to release the manual download for this thing.


----------



## Bayboy

Exactly! I have adjusted and re-adjusted (including driver swaps) so much that I have basically lost my settings from the original RTA session. That is something I need to go back and officially do once I settle down and pick a final route from the experimental stage. I've been going by ear lately and since I've followed that linked thread have made some heavy breakthroughs in getting a more solid front stage.

I can see how a 31 band is not enough like mentioned, but even less would be a 16 band (for me at least) regardless if L/R or not. Since then I have a newfound respect for the AC unit for I have to admit I was not using it properly. 

RTA & pink noise is what I used in the beginning, but that is also a mistake if you don't do one side separately first, blend in with the sub(s), do the other side, go from there on general adjustments. From this I can already see the superiority of the Pioneer over the Clarion. L/R is entirely important! Remember this thread?:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...888-help-my-soundstage-ate-my-windshield.html


Same technique pretty much except that it should be incorporated in the beginning with the RTA (at least for me). This alone did wonders for a system without t/a. Now if I go back and adjust PLD along with compensations for axis issues per side the results become even better. Starting to see how things were done back in the days before t/a became so prevalent. Learn something new everyday


----------



## Ziggy

bikinpunk said:


> Looks like the *Clarion only has 5 band EQ* vs. the 16 band on the Pioneer. Given their price points, it's not like the two are head to head competitors but still...
> 
> I do like how the Clarion has the BT mic built in. Makes it super easy for install.
> 
> I like the Pioneer's looks more but honestly, it's still not even that nice looking. The p99 has it all but is nearly 3x the price.


Parametric EQ?... that was non issue with my Clarion 785usb that I bought as a backup deck for the price (after my Pio 880 got jacked). 
I just said hey, if I can get this 785usb to sound decent -I'd be happy... and what do yah know, I got spoiled with the usb!... 
I barely played with the parametric eq on that deck... And remember when we RTA'd it at the BikiniQ -and it came out damn near perfect on the first run? :laugh:

Sure it's no DRZ9255 but, 
If this new Clarion CZ702 deck has the same EQ capabilities as the 785usb, then I'd give it a whirl at that price... Love to see a modernized DRZ flagship from Clarion though... 
that's been said enough!


----------



## ReloadedSS

Ziggy said:


> Love to see a modernized DRZ flagship from Clarion though...
> that's been said enough!


They do, sort of...just not for the US.

See, for example:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/119844-clarion-hx-d3.html


----------



## ErinH

ReloadedSS said:


> They do, sort of...just not for the US.
> 
> See, for example:
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/119844-clarion-hx-d3.html


No iPod. No BT. I'd hardly call that modernized.


----------



## ReloadedSS

bikinpunk said:


> No iPod. No BT. I'd hardly call that modernized.


Oh, yeah, well if you want those modern features, sure.  But refreshed, at least.


----------



## Techie

So, I have a real noobish question here (so go easy on me!)

Can you still use this HU if you run speakers with a passive crossover?

I could be confusing myself, but I see the HU is '3-way Active Crossover Network'. I generally assume it is designed for, or best suited for an active speaker setup?? I definitely have no idea. Just curious cause I'm searching for a new HU for my new system that I will be building within the next 2 months.


----------



## nismos14

Yes you can.


----------



## rton20s

You certainly should be able to use a set of passive crossovers in combination with this head unit. Though, you’ll gain more control by using the on-board active crossovers. 

This does prompt a couple questions though. Do you ever plan to go active with this head unit? Do you plan to make use of the time alignment or independent L/R EQ on this head unit? 

If you answered no to both, I would strongly suggest looking at other HU options. A significant portion of what you are paying for with this head unit are these features. And the HU actually sacrifices some things available on Pioneers “lower end” HUs. One of those units may be more suitable for you and save you a few bucks while you’re at it.


----------



## Techie

rton20s said:


> You certainly should be able to use a set of passive crossovers in combination with this head unit. Though, you’ll gain more control by using the on-board active crossovers.
> 
> This does prompt a couple questions though. Do you ever plan to go active with this head unit? Do you plan to make use of the time alignment or independent L/R EQ on this head unit?
> 
> If you answered no to both, I would strongly suggest looking at other HU options. A significant portion of what you are paying for with this head unit are these features. And the HU actually sacrifices some things available on Pioneers “lower end” HUs. One of those units may be more suitable for you and save you a few bucks while you’re at it.



I would rather not go active with this head unit. I will be using Hertz HSK 165 XL's in the front. Reasons I would prefer to stay with passive setup; simplicity, budget, and I like how they sound already. I would consider active, but then I feel it's starting to make things 'too' complex. The local shop who sold me the speakers this past spring didn't recommend active for these speakers, figured I would take his advice.

Not sure if I would make use of the time alignment or L/R EQ (though not entirely sure what this is, looking into it atm)

Mostly looking for a good SQ HU that won't break the bank, with ipod functionality and USB won't hurt. I stumbled upon this thread and got curious about it.


----------



## nismos14

I think this deck is still a good choice because you will potentially be able to use a future setup active, and you might actually use the left and right eq at some point down the road. The point is, for the price, the other options are just not as good as this when you take into account everything you get and add on top of that active, ta, and l/r eq.


----------



## Techie

nismos14 said:


> I think this deck is still a good choice because you will potentially be able to use a future setup active, and you might actually use the left and right eq at some point down the road. The point is, for the price, the other options are just not as good as this when you take into account everything you get and add on top of that active, ta, and l/r eq.


Alright thanks for the input, I still have a month or two to pick out equipment. I need to buy a HU and a new amp for the HSK 165 XL's; max budget of $800. I'm playing around with different combinations and such. Will definitely consider this HU.


----------



## Mark the Bold

I retired my 880prs a while ago after the gears got stuck in the faceplate. Best headunit I ever owned; I had one of those hong-kong made ip-bus/ipod connectors wired directly to my ipod which was awesome. You could always read the display, even in direct sunlight and just all around felt really solid. IMO the dual round knob interface is to this day the most user friendly one in the industry.

I only went with my kdc-x995 because I kept getting tickets in Las Vegas for talking on my cellphone while driving, and I really liked HD Radio. The net cost of buying the two modules for the 880prs was almost 150% more than the new cost of the x995 kenwood itself so it was a no brainer.

Now that I'm still having a torrid love affair with my MS-8, I have no need for this headunit. But if its even half as classy as the 880prs, I recommend it to anyone on this thread.


----------



## t3sn4f2

rton20s said:


> You certainly should be able to use a set of passive crossovers in combination with this head unit. Though, you’ll gain more control by using the on-board active crossovers.
> 
> This does prompt a couple questions though. Do you ever plan to go active with this head unit? Do you plan to make use of the time alignment or independent L/R EQ on this head unit?
> 
> If you answered no to both, I would strongly suggest looking at other HU options. A significant portion of what you are paying for with this head unit are these features. And the HU actually sacrifices some things available on Pioneers “lower end” HUs. One of those units may be more suitable for you and save you a few bucks while you’re at it.


Yup, but just hope they didn't cut any corners in preamp quality on the lower models. Saving 25% or more is great, but not if you get a bunch of hiss at high volume settings.


----------



## rton20s

t3sn4f2 said:


> Yup, but just hope they didn't cut any corners in preamp quality on the lower models. Saving 25% or more is great, but not if you get a bunch of hiss at high volume settings.


This is absolutely true, and I should have put that in my post. Chances are, the SQ is not going to be as clean in the less expensive models. Considering you drop from 5v to 4v and lose the Burr-Brown DAC dropping down to the next model, there is sure to be some difference. Then again, if the sound is “good enough” for someone, they gain back HD radio and optional sat radio for $140 less. 

I’d suggest a live demonstration/comparison before making a final decision. And definitely don’t write off options from other brands like the previously mentioned Clarion CZ702.


----------



## robert_wrath

JLaudioman said:


> I would rather not go active with this head unit. I will be using Hertz HSK 165 XL's in the front.* Reasons I would prefer to stay with passive setup; simplicity, budget, and I like how they sound already. I would consider active, but then I feel it's starting to make things 'too' complex. The local shop who sold me the speakers this past spring didn't recommend active for these speakers, figured I would take his advice.*
> 
> Not sure if I would make use of the time alignment or L/R EQ (though not entirely sure what this is, looking into it atm)
> 
> Mostly looking for a good SQ HU that won't break the bank, with ipod functionality and USB won't hurt. I stumbled upon this thread and got curious about it.


You'll ultimately reconsider altering the setup after hearing it a few months later. Active _*is*_ the way to go.


----------



## Techie

robert_wrath said:


> You'll ultimately reconsider altering the setup after hearing it a few months later. Active _*is*_ the way to go.



I don't doubt it at all, I think I have been trying to convince myself not to run Active!!! The shop owner made a point the passive crossovers that came with speakers would sound better than running those particular speakers active. I would be quite interested in active, but honestly I don't know much/if anything about it currently. Depending on cost, I would highly consider it. I am getting a new car within 2 months and have the option/ability to do whatever I want. I don't want to hijack this thread, but I would be interested in discussing it (Maybe I should make a new thread elsewhere after more research)


----------



## Bayboy

JLaudioman said:


> I would rather not go active with this head unit. I will be using Hertz HSK 165 XL's in the front. Reasons I would prefer to stay with passive setup; simplicity, budget, and I like how they sound already. I would consider active, but then I feel it's starting to make things 'too' complex. The local shop who sold me the speakers this past spring didn't recommend active for these speakers, figured I would take his advice.
> 
> Not sure if I would make use of the time alignment or L/R EQ (though not entirely sure what this is, looking into it atm)
> 
> Mostly looking for a good SQ HU that won't break the bank, with ipod functionality and USB won't hurt. I stumbled upon this thread and got curious about it.


Not downing your installer/seller, but why did they suggest not going active?  Although the passives should be good enough, should you ever decide to separate the tweeters quite a bit a headunit like the Pioneer would suit it best.


----------



## Techie

Bayboy said:


> Not downing your installer/seller, but why did they suggest not going active?  Although the passives should be good enough, should you ever decide to separate the tweeters quite a bit a headunit like the Pioneer would suit it best.



Well I don't remember the exact conversation, but I kind of remember the basics. He believed it would sound better running passive because the crossover was of high quality or I wouldn't gain much from running active. Not saying he is right or wrong, but I took his advice at the time. I'm open to running active, definitely not against it.


----------



## kyheng

Well, back to the basics are always the best... Your installer are right..... And some of us are wrong.... Unless you are going a 3-way front + sub setup, then active will be better...
If you are going for a normal 2-way front + sub, going passive are better, since you have minimum tuning on your tweeter and midbass... If you cross your tweeter too low, you may have beaming issue or tweeter sounded too bright.... Crossing midbass too high may result to your sound stage too low... 
Without TA your system will sound bad? This is more like now people need to carry a tablet and go around will look good.... This is more like marketing drive....


----------



## Bayboy

Tweeter beaming caused by too low of a crossover point??? I was under the impression that beaming was relative to cone size & upper frequencies. lowpassing a midwoofer too high causes the mid to beam. Crossing the tweeter too low winds up with blown tweeters..... 


Either way active is offers more control than passive without having to switch caps, coils, and resistors whether it's 2 way or 3 way. No doubt the Hertz are designed well, but an active setup offers far more ease & flexibility per setup. Not to mention more eq bands is better than less in addition to t/a.


----------



## kyheng

I think I should just take out the beaming....
The proper way to run a tweeter(either passive or active), it should be 2X from FS value... 
If the frequency range for midbass are limited till 3000Hz only, you may cross them higher, but it may not sound good...
More EQ are good, but then when you add too much flavour, it may not good also... My P9 have 31-band of EQ and I only using 1 or 2 bands only... 

Getting a passive system are really killing sometimes, so I'll just use the passive that comes with the set.. Give them a try and see how it goes... As the passive are built for that component set which is to protect the tweeter and to shine the component set to its full potential...


----------



## Bayboy

Damn.... only 2 bands out of 31?? How did you manage to accomplish that? My setup is so atrocious that I use quite a bit of EQ to even things out.

Don't get me wrong, I respect passive, have used pre-built, and built computer aided that performed pretty good. I just prefer active when it comes to tuning because it's a lot faster than acquiring, soldering, desoldering parts especially when you want to change slopes or points after the fact. There are some cons to actives if it is severely limited with slopes & points, but this we have yet to see with the Pioneer. 


Still, after much deliberation I am seriously debating the use of an MS-8 over the new units especially if I can acquire a lesser one with BT & USB. My old premier only lacks BT which is not a deal breaker, but the direction I think I want to go (door midbass, midrange in kicks, pillar tweets) won't make good use of either new headunit. For a mere $100-150 more the flexibility is upped quite a bit.


----------



## kyheng

Well, there's nothing to huha about this... 
1. choose the right raw drivers which can play relatively flat for the frequency range you want
2. know what each drivers can do and what they can't do
3. don't chase and try to catch your own shadows, building a sound system is for you to enjoy and not letting machines to enjoy it, trust your ears

I won't say my system are the best sounding system, but then I like it....


----------



## Bayboy

That is true.... you must be one of the lucky ones with a vehicle that accompanies the acoustics you prefer. I'm the opposite. Have had nothing but issue after issue with this suv. Electronic manipulation is heavily needed to get SQ, but I will get there or ditch this vehicle in the end. Lol 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

Maybe is time for you to watch the video link on my sig... If you appreciate that video content, I'm sure you will think differently and will follow my route.....


----------



## Bayboy

Video? Never payed any attention, but as soon as I get home I will have to check it out.

Perhaps I phrased that statement incorrectly... electronic manipulation is somewhat required in this crappy suv. The only stock locations in the narrow cab is in the 6.5" rear doors & 4x6" dash. I've since moved beyond that. No rears, cut and fitted midbass to the front doors, still use the dash for mid/hi. PLD & axis issues are troublesome in it, but that's soon to change.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

Well, getting the "perfect" location for your speakers are the most important thing to be done.... If this is done wrong in the first place, give you an Alpine F#1 system also you won't get a good result....


----------



## Bayboy

Yeah I know.... just kept making changes until the point of diminishing returns appeared. Sad part is it really could have been much simpler with the original 3-way front stage if implemented correctly. Didn't put the midrange in the kicks to equalize PLD. So back to the drawing board.....


Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

Actually putting speaker at kick panels are not a good way as you need to consider some of the sound being absorb by your leg and dashboard.... Not all vehicle will yield good results....


----------



## Bayboy

Trust me.... I have considered that aspect heavily. That's why it was never done in the first place, but after some research it's now its looking like the best option for this vehicle. The A pillars and dash are not decent enough for midrange placement even if using a small driver like the Whisper. There is simply minimal room in this first gen S10. Best PLD measured was in the kicks.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark the Bold

I wonder if Pioneer did anything different with their Auto-EQ. It worked OK on their p880, but still light years away from the MS-8 DSP. It (Pioneer) made my highs WAY too bright. Like painful bright.

Lets hope they borrowed some of the code from their MCACC DSP's on their flagship AVR's. It's no Audissey XT32, but its pretty good.


----------



## kyheng

Don't expect Pioneer to use high end DSP on lower end models....


----------



## Bayboy

kyheng said:


> Maybe is time for you to watch the video link on my sig... If you appreciate that video content, I'm sure you will think differently and will follow my route.....


Peeped a bit of that video on my phone. I remember watching that a while back when it was linked in another thread. I remember there was some interesting points made, just was hard to keep track of them through all the murmur. Still, when the point of trusting test equipment instead of ears was made isn't that sort of contradictory??? Just like the auto tune feature that keeps being brought about on the Pioneer. If you can tune it manually to suit your hearing better than what the machine does, then what does it matter? Now if it has the processing power of the MS-8, that's another story which we know it doesn't. Maybe I'm looking at this all wrong...

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## kyheng

2 important points from that video :
1. expectation bias
2. preception bias

When you really understand this, you will found some of the things done are not right.... I've watched this video for >10 times....


----------



## Mark the Bold

Bayboy said:


> Still, when the point of trusting test equipment instead of ears was made isn't that sort of contradictory??? Just like the auto tune feature that keeps being brought about on the Pioneer. If you can tune it manually to suit your hearing better than what the machine does, then what does it matter? Now if it has the processing power of the MS-8, that's another story which we know it doesn't. Maybe I'm looking at this all wrong...
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


Well, I don't expect it to have the processing power of a MS-8, but the golden rule of electronics (quoting Trip Hawkins: ) " is that all electronics are getting cheaper and more powerful all the time". 

I guarantee its just a chip anyway; once its been commercially fabricated / tooled, and the R&D costs recouped, it wouldn't cost Pioneer very much to incorporate it. But whatever, I'm just wish thinking.


----------



## Mark the Bold

kyheng said:


> Don't expect Pioneer to use high end DSP on lower end models....


Doesnt seem to me like this is a lower end model at all. In fact, it appears to be Pioneers flagship model of new, commercially available headunits.

EDIT: Interesting, the DEH-P9400BH has HD Radio built in but the 80prs does not. Maybe, I'm a niche customer but HD Radio is great if you listen to a lot of talk radio. ESPECIALLY on AM. Wonder why they didnt include it on the 80prs?


----------



## Bayboy

You know that is really the sad part..... if electronics are getting cheaper & more powerful then why are they taking so long to bring these things to the market? Look at how long it took some of these companies to return back to producing these kind of headunits. You would think there would be more than just Pioneer & Clarion coming up with something...

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

kyheng said:


> 2 important points from that video :
> 1. expectation bias
> 2. preception bias
> 
> When you really understand this, you will found some of the things done are not right.... I've watched this video for >10 times....


Now I definitely will have to go back and view it again..... 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark the Bold

^^^^^^^^^ (post #239)

There's a whole thread out there on this subject alone (modern stock units why upgrade? etc.). But I'll stand by Trip's quote: You can buy an unlocked 16gb Samsung Galaxy smartphone for what this thing costs. Don't tell me it isn't infinitely more powerful (CPU) wise than this headunit. Yes, I know that the pioneer has power supplies, boutique DAC's, but really how much more could it cost to pop in their latest MCACC chip into this to replace their current auto-eq chip? Or buy a $50 Audissey license and up their prices by $100, etc.. I mean the DSP code ( R&D) has already been done. The MS-8 proved it.

Look I don't want to pretend I know better than Pioneer. But the MS-8 / Bit-One / Helix pp50 DSP are the biggest and best developments in car audio in the last 10 years, no question. Pioneer is obviously marketing the p80prs to the very same market segment who want these things to begin with. I'm just connecting the dots....


----------



## rton20s

One of the things told to me by a very reputable local dealer regarding the auto-tune on the MS-8 vs the Pioneer auto-tune (DEX-P99RS) was that they suspect mic JBL uses makes a significant difference. And this was coming from the lead installer who does a few MS-8s per month and has the DEX-P99RS installed in his own car. His advice was, if you want to set it and forget it, get the MS-8. If you want to fine tune manually, get the P99RS, or a Bit One. (This was all before the DEH-80PRS was announced.) 

And I believe Pioneer chose to drop HD and Satellite radio support on the DEH-80PRS in order to hit a specific price point. I am sure they could have incorporated it, but the price probably would have been creeping into stand alone processor territory. With so many streaming apps out there, the lack of HD and satellite doesn’t really bother me at all. 

I also think Pioneer, and all head unit manufacturers have backed away from higher end SQ models over the last few years because there is less of a market for them. Sure, there are guys like us on DIYMA who really want these features, but the majority of the car audio purchasing public could care less. Factor in the development cost of a higher end head unit, and I think you have your answer. 

I go back to what I have heard from all of the local shops I have visited in recent months. Their market has changed drastically over the last few years. Most people aren’t looking for high end. There are a couple specific features they want out of their head unit and maybe a little added bass. Most don’t even care about having a properly built enclosure for their sub(s). A generic drop in will do, just fine. 

When this is what the market is becoming, it is hard to convince the manufacturers to focus on sound quality and higher value products. Hopefully the excitement the DEH-80PRS is generating will turn a few heads and shift the manufacturers a little way back to our line of thinking.


----------



## Bayboy

That or the 80PRS and Clarion is a experiment to see what group will buy and at what cost. Possibly the limited amount of consumers that can't afford the more expensive processors, but refuse to pay "premium retail" prices for a bare bones unit. Hope it pans out or we could see another vanishing....

I'm sure they've done their homework. Just hope it's correct.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

I think you're right. Any time a manufacturer brings out a product that is a bit of an anomaly from the rest of their product line it is probably a bit of an experiment. If it works, they see a new direction or market to pursue. If not, it is abandoned. Let's hope that with the DEH-80PRS and CZ702 it is the former rather than the latter. 



Bayboy said:


> That or the 80PRS and Clarion is a experiment to see what group will buy and at what cost. Possibly the limited amount of consumers that can't afford the more expensive processors, but refuse to pay "premium retail" prices for a bare bones unit. Hope it pans out or we could see another vanishing....
> 
> I'm sure they've done their homework. Just hope it's correct.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

kyheng said:


> 2 important points from that video :
> 1. expectation bias
> 2. preception bias
> 
> When you really understand this, you will found some of the things done are not right.... I've watched this video for >10 times....



Ok I've watched the vid carefully this time and now I remember why I paid it not much attention. :laugh: There was a lot of valid points, but I fail to see the connection in the topics we speak of. Care to elaborate? You can pm me to keep from cluttering the thread..


----------



## robert_wrath

Mark the Bold said:


> Doesn't seem to me like this is a lower end model at all. In fact, it appears to be Pioneers flagship model of new, commercially available headunits.
> 
> EDIT: I*nteresting, the DEH-P9400BH has HD Radio built in but the 80prs does not. * Maybe, I'm a niche customer but HD Radio is great if you listen to a lot of talk radio. ESPECIALLY on AM. * Wonder why they didn't include it on the 80prs?*


This is one reason why I think either this or the new Kenwood KDCX-996 would be strong alternatives to the 80PRS (by way of Useful Features).


----------



## rton20s

I looked very closely at the KDC-X995 when I was head unit shopping before CES. As well as every other “high end” head unit out there. The KDC-X996 looks to be nothing more than a mild refresh of the 995. 

From everything I have heard and been told, the 995 (and presumably 996) is a decent sounding HU, but most likely not on par with the DEH-80PRS. It doesn’t have the crossovers of the 80PRS and I had shop owners, installers and 995 owners tell me that the time alignment on that HU was virtually worthless. Especially when compared to a stand-alone processor. 

Sure, there are trade-offs between the 996 and the 80PRS, but I really don’t see them as competing products. Right now I only see two products in this segment for 2012. The DEH-80PRS and CZ702 (excluding units that require an external processor). That isn’t to say that the KDC-X996 isn’t a good head unit, it just checks off a different set of boxes.


----------



## Mark the Bold

^^^^^^

As a proud owner of a kdc-x995 I can tell you the DSP leaves a lot to be desired. I have mine completely disabled due the MS-8. 

BUT for the price, there was no more feature rich headunit out there at the time I bought it. Its ipod navigation is second only to the ipod itself in terms of quickly navigating >60gb of mp3s. IT actually can FAST forward mp3's unlike every pioneer I've owned. My only gripe is the display gets a little hard to see in broad daylight due to glare but with polarized sunglasses the problem goes away. For whatever reason polarized glasses make it EASIER to read which is usually the exact opposite effect of polarized glasses with virtually all headunits I've had before.

I am still liking this pioneer. It's dead sexy!


----------



## kyheng

Bayboy said:


> Ok I've watched the vid carefully this time and now I remember why I paid it not much attention. :laugh: There was a lot of valid points, but I fail to see the connection in the topics we speak of. Care to elaborate? You can pm me to keep from cluttering the thread..


Well, as said, that video are stressing the 2 points I mentioned earlier... It also advise us not to fall in to marketing gimmick's trap on believing what they said....
And he stressed on enviroment too.... How you set it will affect your system's performance...


----------



## QuikWgn

Special ordered my DEH-80PRS today, pending delivery next Tue/Wed! So excited!


----------



## Bayboy

Keep us posted with any features that haven't been mentioned and also price. Latest advertised prices on the web are along the $346-$350 shipped so I don't expect too much deviation from that.


----------



## kyheng

My guess, may wrong..... DAC and DSP still the same, with faceplate changed, SD card support..... Waiting for leaked service manual BTW....


----------



## nismos14

QuikWgn said:


> Special ordered my DEH-80PRS today, pending delivery next Tue/Wed! So excited!


Where from? how much?


----------



## spl152db

nismos14 said:


> Where from? how much?


Looks like a troll to me. 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

kyheng said:


> My guess, may wrong..... DAC and DSP still the same, with faceplate changed, SD card support..... Waiting for leaked service manual BTW....


Same as?


----------



## kyheng

Same as older P880/800.....


----------



## nismos14

kyheng said:


> Same as older P880/800.....



I'm reading a lot of conjecture on your part, you know about as much as the rest of us.


----------



## kyheng

When you can read the service manuals, then you will know the story behind.... 
And most of the time certain models will share the same circuit board with some minor changes on the faceplate, like the 2 and 3 sharing the same board....


----------



## QuikWgn

spl152db said:


> Looks like a troll to me.
> 
> Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


I called Crutchfield and they said they were not going to carry it so I called J&R Music World yesterday to see if they had an expected delivery timeframe. They said they were accepting 'special orders' only at this to determine whether they were going to stock the unit. I was informed that it was 5 days to shipment. Paid $350 + $25 for 2 yrs additional warranty.

Order Status - Tracking/History
Order Status updates periodically throughout the day
Need help? Call 800-426-6027

Order Summary
Customer Name:

XXXX X XXXXXXXXX
Order Number:
XXXXXXX
Original Order Total:

$374.99
Order Date:

February 08, 2012
Total Amount Charged:

$0.00

Ship to address: 
XXXX XXXXXXXXX
XXXX XXXXXXX XX XX
EVERETT, WA 98203 US
XXX-XXX-XXXX
You are only charged for items when they are shipped.


Order Detail

Item Number 
Item Description Qty
Ordered Qty
Shipped 
Status
PIO DEH80PRS PIONEER CD DSP BLUETOOTH AND HD RADIO 1 0 Submitted
WAR RMELE2U500 Repair Master RMELE2U500 2-Year Electronics Warranty Service Plan 1 0 Submitted


Shipping Details
Awaiting shipment.


----------



## nismos14

kyheng said:


> When you can read the service manuals, then you will know the story behind....
> And most of the time certain models will share the same circuit board with some minor changes on the faceplate, like the 2 and 3 sharing the same board....


This is true, but it still appears to be a ton of conjecture on your part with as much evidence of what you say as any of the rest of us have. Getting kind of old.


----------



## kyheng

Well, you can always ignore me... Simple as that.....


----------



## nismos14

kyheng said:


> Well, you can always ignore me... Simple as that.....


Will do Chief! I didn't mean to offend, so I hope I didn't. It just boggles my mind (not just you) what this conversation has evolved to.


----------



## rton20s

I agree. Too many of us are getting too anxious about this particular model. And with no real solid information out there, conjecture and speculation is about all that is left. Unfortunately, I don't think this will stop until some concrete info is put out by Pioneer or the HU is released. 

As far as the J&R pre-order, for your (and all of our) sake, I hope they come through. I fear though that they may be a little pre-emptive in taking your order. When Pioneer hasn't even released a manual and has been talking about a March/April release, I'm not sure how J&R can make the sale so early. You can bet if yours shows up though and you show proof, I'll be on the phone immediately.


----------



## CDjunkie

me 3


----------



## (s)AINT

yeah I wish pioneer would have thrown some more info out there, it kinda pisses me off that they wouldn't be pushing their product when it 'supposedly' has the specs it has for the money. 

I don't know about you all but I've been foaming at the mouth for a new HU with SQ for at least 2 years now. If that gentlemen does get that head unit next week and proves it then that company should be expecting a phone call from me to special order immediately.


----------



## rton20s

I don't think Pioneer is pushing it yet because it isn't ready. I'm sure they will be marketing this unit as soon as they have units available. As it is, they haven't even got the manual together enough to publish to their website. Heck, they already have the manual up for the PRS-D800 and that thing only has renderings on he product page! 

Also Pioneer has stated on their FB page that they will start shipping the DEH-80PRS to dealers in March. No specific date, but that doesn't bode well for that order placed with J&R.


----------



## nismos14

No one has any friggin patience.


----------



## kyheng

Well, start shipping from Thailand to US by ship on 31st March 23:59 still consider March.....


----------



## (s)AINT

As excited as I am It doesn't change the fact that it still looks pretty generic and ugly


----------



## WLDock

Man, IMO the deck is simply an updated and revamped 880PRS, 800PRS. Reading this thread will make someone new to car audio think that this is the first deck ever from Pioneer of its kind.

I really don't remember seven pages of chatter back in '06 when the 880 came out....besides updated built-in features (iPod, bluetooth, Pandora, etc) what else does this deck do audio wise that the previous gen did not? *Am I missing something here *or is there a new gen waiting for this that has never owned or played with an 880prs, 800prs, P9 combo, P1R, ODR, etc?

And why does price keep coming up? A $400+ MSRP is cheaper than any other deck that Pioneer has offered to date in this catagory. Just like every other deck before it....one will be able to get it cheaper price from dealers and will be able to get it even cheaper on the internet. Is their really anything to talk about here...given the already low MSRP?

I know we all get anxious for new products...but wow...some have taken this to a new level! Just wait and enjoy an early Spring....pick up the deck by Summer....and pull it apart and analyze it untill your heart is content.

Untill then chillax...hang loose....and no worries... :sleeping:


----------



## ErinH

The fact that it a modernized 800prs is what excites me. iPod and Bluetooth built in. 

It's pretty ugly though. At least in pictures given so far.


----------



## Bayboy

I'm one of the unfortunates that never got to experience any of the all-in-one headunits. However, not going gaga over either...... I'm gonna stay patient and compare options for the price range. Bluetooth being the only extra function I really want, I think I can sacrifice that and a few other features for a used ms-8. That's a unit that I really would like to try for the autotune, 3-way +sub+ center. So any of you getting rid of an ms-8 for the low to try a new product coming out may hear from me. Lol

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## WLDock

bikinpunk said:


> The fact that it a modernized 800prs is what excites me. iPod and Bluetooth built in. It's pretty ugly though. At least in pictures given so far.


 Yeah, I hear you on all all points. It's a cool product at the "right" price...but some should let it hit the streets as this post has gone waay too far...and I am at fault myself.


----------



## QuikWgn

nismos14 said:


> No one has any friggin patience.


I have a Sony HU that has been stuck on the same channel for 3 months, and everything in my sig is on a pile on my floor waiting on the best HU I can justify putting in a 12 year old car. I think I have exhibited plenty of patience


----------



## Sleeves

FWIW I sell Pioneer products and as soon as I saw the 80PRS pop up on my distributor's website I put one on backorder. I was told to expect late March to early April for shipment.

About pricing: The Minimum _Advertised_ Price should be $350 with full retail price of $420. Very few dealers sell anything at "full retail" anymore since it is completely ridiculous in the internet age. If you find any online prices lower that $350 then they are most likely either not an authorized dealer or shouldn't be for long. The pricing is set that way to level the internet playing field and encourage people to walk in to a store. They could be sold for less if you engage a dealer _in person_ since there is no Absolute Minimum Pricing when doing business with dealers directly.

Sorry if any on this has already been covered but the thread became unreadable 5 pages ago. I do not plan on checking back in.


----------



## QuikWgn

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Unassigned-Content/Manuals/DEH-80PRS+OPERATION+MANUAL

The manual is out on the Pioneer Website. All other 2012 Pioneer models have shipped as well. Crutchfield has started shipping all the 2012 models including the DEH-P9400BH. They are not carrying the 80PRS.


----------



## (s)AINT

interesting, considering that everything is shipping now i wonder if the prs is very soon if not already shipping...

i sure hope so


----------



## Yuck.

so...this vs. the 800prs? Because I'm thinking about selling my 800 since I acquired a p99, but not if this 80prs is a noticeably inferior item, I'll just hang onto it for a rainy day...


----------



## Bayboy

You must have another install to use the 800prs in? If I had a P99, I wouldn't be looking at anything else! Heck I'd probably be spoiled and would want another P99.


----------



## Yuck.

Well not every install will be 4-way active, and it would be nice to have for a simpler setup down the road.


----------



## nismos14

It should be just as good, but none of can tell you for sure since it's not out yet. The audio features are 99% the same, and you get the added perks that it comes with. I think it's worth it, however integration from and between a p99 and an 800 would be easier assuming you got all the modules you'd want for the p99 as they should all also work with the 800, but wouldn't be necessary with the 80prs.


----------



## avanti1960

April 12th release date according to this vendor-

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - Custom Radio Buffalo


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Dang.. wondering if I should hold out for this thing now.. I don't think it's ugly at all.. I would liek to see some lit up buttons though.. mentions multi colors.


----------



## rton20s

Just check out the Japanese version to get an idea. Look about halfway down the page. 

Color Options


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Sick.. ill get one for the g/f just so I can play with it.. she hates her kenwood!


----------



## nismos14

I have both the CZ702 and DEH-80PRS on order.


----------



## CDjunkie

Two men enter - One man leaves


----------



## WLDock

rton20s said:


> Just check out the Japanese version to get an idea. Look about halfway down the page.
> Color Options


Isn't it really interesting how the better photography on the Japanese site makes the deck look nice...and better illustrated. I wonder why the two sides don't come together? Well, I guess the company I work for has the same issue....the European mother site is always more complete and better layed out, etc, etc.......

Google Translate
http://translate.google.com/transla...r.jp/carrozzeria/products/deh_970/design.html


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> I have both the CZ702 and DEH-80PRS on order.


Nice. Very interested in hearing your impressions once you can do a side by side comparison.


----------



## nismos14

It may be a while depending on when these puppies get released.


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> It may be a while depending on when these puppies get released.


Wait... What do you mean? QuikWgn should already have his DEH-80PRS by now! 

Seriously though, no rush. I know it is going to be a few weeks to a couple months before both of these are available. Even though I have made my decision, I would love to get the impressions from someone who has had the chance to A/B compare both head units.


----------



## nismos14

I can tell you that I think I will like both, if function is similar to the past models. I really liked the 785USB, and the 880/800prs. As far as all the additional perks that each will have, those won't weigh as heavily for me, but I will be sure to test them regardless.


----------



## its_bacon12

*Kenwood stepping up to deliver the goods too
*
Kenwood - KDC-BT952HD

KDC-BT952HD, KDC-X996

T/A, crossovers, 7band eq, built in HD/BT, control Pandora from iPhone, Android, BB


----------



## nismos14

its_bacon12 said:


> *Kenwood stepping up to deliver the goods too
> *
> Kenwood - KDC-BT952HD
> 
> KDC-BT952HD, KDC-X996
> 
> T/A, crossovers, 7band eq, built in HD/BT, control Pandora from iPhone, Android, BB


996 has 13 band eq now, too bad neither can run active.


----------



## ZAKOH

its_bacon12 said:


> *Kenwood stepping up to deliver the goods too
> *
> Kenwood - KDC-BT952HD
> 
> T/A, crossovers, 7band eq, built in HD/BT, control Pandora from iPhone, Android, BB


Looking at the product description, this one is a handicapped version of KDC-X996. However, even KDC-X996 does not come close to Pioneer in SQ features (no active capable, no independent eq for each side, no auto tune).


----------



## rton20s

Yup... revisions of previous models, but still not really capable of going active. Kenwood is making some progress in Android/Blackberry compatibility for those who really want it. Their Android app is nice for recognizing any Android device as a hard drive. Doesn't do much for me though as an iPhone owner interested in going active.


----------



## nismos14

Interestingly, according to the manual, the KDC-X996 has a tweeter high pass - 1k, 1.6k, 2.5k, 4k, 5k, 6.3k, 8k, 10k, 12.5k.


----------



## WLDock

A little bit of Pioneer history...

I forgot about the DEH-P860MP $570 MSRP ~ year 2004
DEH-P860MP - | Pioneer Electronics USA

For those that might not know and are jumping up and down about this "new' deck...The built in DSP core (3-way crossover, 13-Band Graphic EQ, Auto-EQ and Auto Time Alignment, Burr-Brown DAC's) of this deck dates back to 1998 (DEX-P1R) with several models along the way. So it's about time they threw in more features for a cheaper price...the budget SQ all-in-one deck USA market needs a good solid option....not sure why they stopped offering a deck like this?

OK, just one more post to keep this going...only 8 pages.


----------



## nismos14

Before the 860mp was the 960mp, before that was the 940mp, before that was nothing but the p9 combo.

However, the 80prs is different than all of those renditions. It's the same as the 880/800 with these key differences from the older models:

*L/R Independent 16-Band Digital Equalizer* 
*L/R** Independent Phase control*
*L/R** Independent Crossover control*
*L/R** Independent Level control*


----------



## Coppertone

Nismo14, may I inquire as to what you run as a head unit? I used to have an Altima SE-R back in the day with Eclipse as my weapon of choice.


----------



## nismos14

Back in the day?! It's at most 7 years ago, lol jk. I currently run a Kenwood DNX9960, but I've had nearly every major brand in it - JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer, Eclipse, Alpine, you name it.


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> Interestingly, according to the manual, the KDC-X996 has a tweeter high pass - 1k, 1.6k, 2.5k, 4k, 5k, 6.3k, 8k, 10k, 12.5k.


What do you know... you're right! That thing could get you pretty close to an active setup. Though, it is missing the ability to bandpass the mid. Still between this, the 16 band EQ and the other non-audio control features it looks like the 996 is a definite step up from the 995. 

I wonder if the time alignment is any better. That was one of the big complaints I always heard about the 995. If it is, the 996 might be a great contender for going active with something like the Imagines which many recommend to let roll off on the top anyway. 

So DEH-80PRS for $350, Kenwood KDC-X996 for $300 or Clarion CZ702 for >$250. You care to order a third for your comparison?


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> What do you know... you're right! That thing could get you pretty close to an active setup. Though, it is missing the ability to bandpass the mid. Still between this, the 16 band EQ and the other non-audio control features it looks like the 996 is a definite step up from the 995.
> 
> I wonder if the time alignment is any better. That was one of the big complaints I always heard about the 995. If it is, the 996 might be a great contender for going active with something like the Imagines which many recommend to let roll off on the top anyway.
> 
> So DEH-80PRS for $350, Kenwood KDC-X996 for $300 or Clarion CZ702 for >$250. You care to order a third for your comparison?


I think the Kenwood has a 13 band according to the manual, not a 16 band . The 996 does seem to up the anti a bit compared to the 995. I don't know why, if they have a tweeter crossover, they don't just build in a bandpass for the mid or perhaps the manual just misses that and it is there.

Just FYI, I got the 80prs for $285, the Clarion for $172.95. These prices are gone now, as they were discounted with various codes I found. Both are also obviously pre-orders. I'll assume that we'll see each hover around these price points until they reach the end of there life cycle at which point they will probably maintain or increase in price for perfect 10/10 used or BNIB units. 

Unfortunately I will not be able to grab a Kenwood, I've spent too much on these two units as it is!!


----------



## ZAKOH

nismos14 said:


> I think the Kenwood has a 13 band according to the manual, not a 16 band . The 996 does seem to up the anti a bit compared to the 995. I don't know why, if they have a tweeter crossover, they don't just build in a bandpass for the mid or perhaps the manual just misses that and it is there.


The tweeter crossover in the manual is a weird addition as I see no way to designate any of the pre-amp or amp channels as the "tweeter" channel. There is also no slope setting for tweeter.


----------



## nismos14

ZAKOH said:


> The tweeter crossover in the manual is a weird addition as I see no way to designate any of the pre-amp or amp channels as the "tweeter" channel. There is also no slope setting for tweeter.


I noticed that too, and don't understand. I guess there is some info that is missing from the manual.


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> I think the Kenwood has a 13 band according to the manual, not a 16 band . The 996 does seem to up the anti a bit compared to the 995. I don't know why, if they have a tweeter crossover, they don't just build in a bandpass for the mid or perhaps the manual just misses that and it is there.
> 
> Just FYI, I got the 80prs for $285, the Clarion for $172.95. These prices are gone now, as they were discounted with various codes I found. Both are also obviously pre-orders. I'll assume that we'll see each hover around these price points until they reach the end of there life cycle at which point they will probably maintain or increase in price for perfect 10/10 used or BNIB units.
> 
> Unfortunately I will not be able to grab a Kenwood, I've spent too much on these two units as it is!!


Yeah, I saw the 13 band. A step up from the 5 band on the previous model for sure. It would actually be better, I would think, to have a LPF on the bid that reaches up high like the tweeter's HPH. Seeing as most every amp out there could handle the HPF for the mid. Here is to hoping it was an oversight. 

Nice score on the head units! I won't even be bitter about you not sharing the discount codes you found.  

And I had to push for the 996 purchase since you were already taking it so far. My brother is actually looking for a new HU, and he loves Kenwood. Maybe I can convince him on a 996 and we can do some swapping for comparison to the 80PRS.


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> Yeah, I saw the 13 band. A step up from the 5 band on the previous model for sure. It would actually be better, I would think, to have a LPF on the bid that reaches up high like the tweeter's HPH. Seeing as most every amp out there could handle the HPF for the mid. Here is to hoping it was an oversight.
> 
> Nice score on the head units! I won't even be bitter about you not sharing the discount codes you found.
> 
> And I had to push for the 996 purchase since you were already taking it so far. My brother is actually looking for a new HU, and he loves Kenwood. Maybe I can convince him on a 996 and we can do some swapping for comparison to the 80PRS.


That's a possibility! I don't mind sharing codes, but they're expired presidents day codes, so they won't work sadly. I like the kenwood HU's as well, who knows I may end up testing a 996 too at some point if my buddy picks one up.


----------



## WLDock

nismos14 said:


> Before the 860mp was the 960mp, before that was the 940mp, *before that was nothing but the p9 combo*.


So the 940MP dates back to '02-'01 I take it? I don't rememeber all of the past decks. However, that is not correct about the predecessor to the 940MP, the Premier *DEX-P1R* came out back in *1998*. I remember this one well as it was my first full DSP deck and the *MSRP was $870!* I think this was the first all-in-one with 3-way, time alignment, 13 band, auto EQ, etc.








DEX-P1R - | Pioneer Electronics USA
Review: Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R


So, I guess that is why my old school self is questioning why some are so concered with the dealer price of the upcoming unit. The *year 2012 80PRS* will have more features and *half the MSRP* of the *P1R from year 1998!* Pioneer is finally offering what we have been asking for...buy them up? and maybe they will bring more cool things over in the future??? 

So, for those that don't know consider this a little more Pioneer ALL-In-One DSP history for you....


----------



## nismos14

WLDock said:


> So the 940MP dates back to '02-'01 I take? I don't rememeber all of the past decks. However, there WAS a deck before the 940MP, it was the *DEX-P1R* and it came out back in 1998. I remember this one well as it was my first full DSP deck and the *MSRP was $870!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DEX-P1R - | Pioneer Electronics USA
> Review: Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R
> 
> So, I guess that is why my old school self is questioning why some are so concered with the dealer price of the upcoming unit. The year 2012 80PRS will have more features and half the MSRP of the P1R from year 1998! Pioneer is finally offering what we have been asking for...buy them up? and maybe they will bring more cool things over in the future???


You're absolutely right, forgot about the p1r.

I agree with you sir!!


----------



## ou812

Not sure if this was mentioned. As far as the Clarion cz702 goes.....anyone notice that the nx702 appears to be active capable as well? 




Clarion U.S.A. | NX702


----------



## t3sn4f2

WLDock said:


> So, I guess that is why my old school self is questioning why some are so concered with the dealer price of the upcoming unit. The *year 2012 80PRS* will have more features and *half the MSRP* of the *P1R from year 1998!* Pioneer is finally offering what we have been asking for...buy them up? and maybe they will bring more cool things over in the future???
> 
> So, for those that don't know consider this a little more Pioneer ALL-In-One DSP history for you....


In 1993, I bought a Pioneer top of the line model (iirc the first super tuner IV) with no DSP, no crossover. Only digitally controlled tone, balance, fad, etc. $400 IIRC 

In 1995/6, I bought Alpine's top of the line for that year. Again nothing but some awesome "ID Logic", not even an AUX in or basic high pass/low pass. $650

~$400 for the 80PRS 15 years later? No low balling from my end.


----------



## evildude88

Wow what a steal for this receiver. Excellent deal for those who want to get into SQ but not spend the high price the 99RS demands.

Personally I am happier that I have my 800PRS but this is definitely worth a look too!


----------



## nismos14

If that NX702 is active capable, I will probably _eventually _grab it lol.


----------



## Flipx99

WLDock said:


> So the 940MP dates back to '02-'01 I take it? I don't rememeber all of the past decks. However, that is not correct about the predecessor to the 940MP, the Premier *DEX-P1R* came out back in *1998*. I remember this one well as it was my first full DSP deck and the *MSRP was $870!* I think this was the first all-in-one with 3-way, time alignment, 13 band, auto EQ, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DEX-P1R - | Pioneer Electronics USA
> Review: Pioneer Premier DEX-P1R
> 
> 
> So, I guess that is why my old school self is questioning why some are so concered with the dealer price of the upcoming unit. The *year 2012 80PRS* will have more features and *half the MSRP* of the *P1R from year 1998!* Pioneer is finally offering what we have been asking for...buy them up? and maybe they will bring more cool things over in the future???
> 
> So, for those that don't know consider this a little more Pioneer ALL-In-One DSP history for you....


Looks like the same eq mic as my old 880. 
lol.

I love the features of this but hate that stupid knob. Plus, now that I can, I want to rock a double din. Glad to knows these are coming soon though.


----------



## bigugly78cj5

incase anyone was looking to order this...JR just dropped there preorder price to 299.00 shipped.... i placed my preorder earlier. i sold my PRS800 for 400 used 3 months ago in favor of the bluetooth P980BT...cant go wrong with the price new with warranty in my opinion


----------



## nismos14

Flipx99 said:


> Looks like the same eq mic as my old 880.
> lol.
> 
> I love the features of this but hate that stupid knob. Plus, now that I can, I want to rock a double din. Glad to knows these are coming soon though.


If the NX702 is active capable, that might be a good choice!


----------



## Flipx99

bigugly78cj5 said:


> incase anyone was looking to order this...JR just dropped there preorder price to 299.00 shipped.... i placed my preorder earlier. i sold my PRS800 for 400 used 3 months ago in favor of the bluetooth P980BT...cant go wrong with the price new with warranty in my opinion


Just dropped the coin on the P4400BH. At least I know I can swap them on the cheap.


----------



## Sulley

bigugly78cj5 said:


> incase anyone was looking to order this...JR just dropped there preorder price to 299.00 shipped


J&R is back up to 349.99 now  I was waiting for a discount code, I guess that backfired.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Wish this would hurry and come out.. I dunno if I can wait lol.. been looking for an 800PRS or DRZ9255.. but this seems to be a good buy..


----------



## rton20s

stockley.rod said:


> J&R is back up to 349.99 now  I was waiting for a discount code, I guess that backfired.


I was awaiting as well because I wanted to give a local shop a chance to at least supply me with my head unit. Guess I shouldn't have waited. 

I wouldn't be surprised if Pioneer made them change it. Considering J&R is an authorized online reseller and the MAP is $349, I was pretty shocked when I saw the $299 listing.


----------



## CDjunkie

stockley.rod said:


> J&R is back up to 349.99 now  I was waiting for a discount code, I guess that backfired.


crap. i had it in the cart but put off pulling the trigger :surprised:
oh well, maybe next week we'll see it somewhere for 250


----------



## nismos14

Doubt you'll see a legit site with it for $250.


----------



## CDjunkie

...joking
unless....... onlinecarstereo


----------



## E Double

Hey folks,

Just finished reading this thread. Wasn't expecting it to go 13 pages...

Anyway, I'm running an Eclipse CD3200, which with my setup in my F150 (JL Audio ZR-570Csi fronts, JL C5-570x for the rear, An older Orion XTR 8" sub in a Q-forms enclosure, powered by an A/D/S PQ-20.2 and the HU for the rear) sounds fantastic.

But... With the horrific ipod interface and the fact that the HU has been randomly freaking out, I'm about ready for a HU change.

This looks like a very nice unit, but the active bit will go unused by me, and the lack of the ability to even pay to add an HD Radio module definitely loses points with me. Living up near NYC all of the stations that I routinely listen to are in HD, and the SQ improvement is enough to make listening to a Jazz or Classical station over the air enjoyable, so I don't think I'd want to do away with that. The Clarion has a nice spec, but is kind of ugly.

I am very interested in the Kenwood KDC-X996, but just hope that I'm not taking a step down SQ wise from my Eclipse.

I think the price of the 80PRS, even at $420 is very agreeable; Hell, the first time that I ever paid less than $450+ for a HU was when I picked up a Nakamichi CD-35z for $325 way back in '99 or so (still going strong in my wife's accord), and since then I've only purchased the Eclipse @ 300 or so dollars a few years back. Alpine's pricing is a bit mental, what with CDA-117 with just BT and HD radio being something like $700. I wish that I didn't despise the ipod interface so much, or I would just pick up a used CD7200. Anyway besides the P99RS this is the first time Pioneer had anything that even remotely piqued my interest. Unfortunately the 99 is absolutely out of the question money wise. I'll probably end up with the Kenwood, but I'm going to wait until I can check this out as well, and hear what you guys have to say about its SQ vs the Kenwood, Clarion, etc etc etc.


----------



## sotelomichael

gonna keep an eye out for a good price on it. I do want to preorder one, especially for 299.99 if it comes up again! Congratulations to those that got in on the preorder price  please PM me if you hear of the price dropping again so I can get one too!


----------



## nismos14

Once I test it a bit I will probably have mine up for sale if anyone wants to wait a bit longer for it.


----------



## Sulley

nismos14 said:


> Once I test it a bit I will probably have mine up for sale if anyone wants to wait a bit longer for it.


First in line on that one!


----------



## CDjunkie

hmmm.... well almost
Special Pricing Page


----------



## sotelomichael

CDjunkie said:


> hmmm.... well almost
> Special Pricing Page


Thanks for the update  I'm going to email Pacific stereo to see if they will price match. Probably not, but I'll report the result


----------



## CDjunkie

J&R back to 300 again


----------



## sotelomichael

Just an update, I tried price matching with Pacific stereo, and haven't heard back from them since Monday. Went ahead and ordered from Jr.com, I believe they are authorized pioneer dealers. Anyonr care to comment on Jr.com? Never bought from them before


----------



## rton20s

I've bought other stuff from J&R, but never car stereo gear. They're a very reputable store.


----------



## flomofo

I have a jvc coming in, in a few hours,and its going right back out minus the install gear to Crutchfield.

On order for a x996 instead because it has all the features I want, but now I want a zuki amp and not sure the x996 has the DSP I need/want to even run 2 way active with an extra set of 6.5 inchers as my bass if I gowith those amps...

Plus the 80prs doesnt have HD radio which is huge for me but do they make an adapter or something?anything?

This radio has everything I want minus HD radio and some cheesy Android compatibility.

I dont even care the price but I've been making a 4 to 6 hour commute everyday without a radio for over a month and I finally thought I had a savior...


----------



## Bayboy

From what other users of HD radio has stated it is not worth worrying about. You should not let the lack of HD deter you from getting a HU that's highly capable. In fact, after some reading from how HD works I'd rather not purchase a HU that supports such. Sort of political I know, but perhaps you should read about it and form your own opinion.


----------



## nismos14

unless there is some sort of typo in the kenwood manual, which is quite possible, it does possess some type of high pass that is good enough for a tweeter, just not one that is a bandpass for a midbass, this could be wrong too, we have to wait till this thing is out ot know for sure.


----------



## duro78

CDjunkie said:


> ...joking
> unless....... onlinecarstereo


In the end it'll cost over $600. First onlinecarstereo will keep the $250 and give the run around for months then the person would have to buy it some where else. Can't believe they haven't been shut down

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## flomofo

Went with a cheap JVC with bluetooth to make noise until I choose either this Pioneer or Clarion.

I'm siding against doing three way active to avoid messing with my interior too much and just doing a two way active system so maybe the Kenwood will work for me.

The pioneer still looks more appealing though with the auto features it has for tuning as my set up will be in the stock sail panel / lower door locations.


----------



## rton20s

Placed my pre-order tonight with J&R. If you're worried about getting their best price, give them a call. According to the salesman their expecting to have these out to customers within the next two weeks. Who knows though.


----------



## Coppertone

I'm sorry I'm on the lazy mill today, is there a link to J&R please...


----------



## nismos14

Took two seconds,  PIONEER CD DSP BLUETOOTH AND HD RADIO in Car Stereo Receivers | JR.com


----------



## Coppertone

That's why I said I was on my lazy mill lol. Being in NJ has caused me to take the easy why out, why shop when the Internet brings it to you. Thank you kindly sir for the quick response. I hope one day to return the favor .


----------



## nismos14

That's a new level of lazyness, took you longer to type out the above message than it did me to find the link, LOL just messin with ya man.


----------



## Coppertone

It's all good I'm married with four children, I have no feeling left in me lol.....


----------



## nismos14

AND living in NJ on top of that, this state sucks the $ right out of you, can't imagine what it'll be like once we have kids. 

:|


----------



## ErinH

nismos14 said:


> Took two seconds,  PIONEER CD DSP BLUETOOTH AND HD RADIO in Car Stereo Receivers | JR.com


Back up to $350. They're all over the place. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## nismos14

Yes, but apparently if you call them you can get better pricing.


----------



## rton20s

Yup. As Nismos14 said, just give them a call. I got tired of watching the price bounce around and hoping to catch it at the right time. That includes having it in my cart at one price and then having it jump back up at check out. 

All I did was call them direct, tell them why I was calling, and they gave me their best price. I also chose to pay the little extra to add a year to the warranty.


----------



## blazerpounds

This unit is damn ugly. Looks cheap, was hoping for something a little more, umm....... Sophisticated? Or looks like it belongs a little more at home in a vehicle other than a 1992 Honda civic? Maybe a larger display to get rid of all the blank space???


----------



## jcollin76

blazerpounds said:


> This unit is damn ugly. Looks cheap, was hoping for something a little more, umm....... Sophisticated? Or looks like it belongs a little more at home in a vehicle other than a 1992 Honda civic? Maybe a larger display to get rid of all the blank space???


From pics, or have you been fortunate enough to see one in person??
Because US marketing leaves a lot to be desired. The press pics for the Asian markets look much nicer... I believe they were posted up earlier (or a link). But if any of the build quality from the p99 carries over, it'll be a nice unit.

I plan to pick one up just to have. I've been very impressed with the p99.


----------



## Bayboy

blazerpounds said:


> This unit is damn ugly. Looks cheap, was hoping for something a little more, umm....... Sophisticated? Or looks like it belongs a little more at home in a vehicle other than a 1992 Honda civic? Maybe a larger display to get rid of all the blank space???




I don't know why so many see this as such a problem. As far as aesthetics, I definitely wouldn't want something someone would peep through a window and say "hey here's a expensive looking one, let's grab it!", or "Isn't that the $1000 Pioneer unit?! Bust that window!" UI is what I would be more concerned with. Of course classy is good, but stealthiness is golden. This is not a $150 bare bones unit.


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy said:


> I don't know why so many see this as such a problem. As far as aesthetics, I definitely wouldn't want something someone would peep through a window and say "hey here's a expensive looking one, let's grab it!", or "Isn't that the $1000 Pioneer unit?! Bust that window!" UI is what I would be more concerned with. Of course classy is good, but stealthiness is golden. This is not a $150 bare bones unit.


I agree. This HU is all about the function. If you like the looks, great. If not, good luck finding something else that looks "pretty" and offers the same functionality at a similar price. 

My own install will be pretty stealth. So much so, I have considered installing the head unit behind the "oven door" of my xB and leaving the stock HU as a dummy to divert would be thieves. In that case the looks of the HU mean absolutely nothing to me. As it stands though, I actually kind of like the looks of the unit. Especially the preliminary images from the Japanese site.


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> I don't know why so many see this as such a problem. As far as aesthetics, I definitely wouldn't want something someone would peep through a window and say "hey here's a expensive looking one, let's grab it!", or "Isn't that the $1000 Pioneer unit?! Bust that window!" UI is what I would be more concerned with. Of course classy is good, but stealthiness is golden. This is not a $150 bare bones unit.


Agreed. I.don't get why everyone thinks its so ugly. IMO it has a simple clean look to it. The so called wasted space is what makes it appealing. I also think it looks helluva a lot better than half of the sq decks out there high, mid and low level. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Yea, I mean if you think this is ugly, the CZ702 must make you vomit in your mouth a lil.


----------



## nismos14

VS:


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Pioneer looks WAY better and you can change the colors... the Clarion looks like something out of TRON.


----------



## nismos14

I think both look good, and I'll take pics of both side by side etc.


----------



## jcollin76

I think they look nice as well.... But I liked tron. Lol


----------



## Sulley

jcollin76 said:


> I think they look nice as well.... But I liked tron. Lol


I love'd tron but i'd only put that 702 on a light bike


----------



## Bayboy

Exactly! If anything is ugly the Clarion definitely is!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

I think both look good, and somewhat similar.


----------



## Bayboy

Not to me. The Pioneer looks more similar to the last generation before the face change with reddish buttons and EZ EQ downscale. Not too different from my current one except more blacked out. The Clarion is just too damn blingy in blue like a Dual receiver.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## snaimpally

prettysweetsounds said:


> ^^good catch on your part. Not having those items is a 'negative' in my book.


No, that is the direction the market is headed. Digital downloads exceeded CD sales some time ago. Instead, it has USB and ipod connectivity, so the thinking is that a USB drive or ipod could be used like a change to hold more than one album.

Just to be clear, I have a 6 CD changer in my glove box that I control with my DEH-P01 and used to control with 800PRS, but CD sales or declining so they opted not to support a changer. Given the size and price constraints, they cannot include everything, so they looked at where the market is heading and made a decision. The bluetooth also allows streaming music from a bluetooth device.


----------



## Bayboy

I do know this.... regardless of looks, after reading through the 80prs manual, the unit comes off as a extremely viable all-in-one unit. Besides the obvious, phase adjustment on all channels & variable xover slopes including defeat (-0db slope) while still in 3-way mode makes it very flexible in almost any setup. No worrying about cascading of xovers with amps that have nondefeatable xovers or passives that are integrated into the system unless you choose to. 

Also I'm not sure for I didn't have too much time, but is it correct in it's ability to use a program to categorize music by genre???? I'm seeing very usable full library thumb drives or maybe even hard drives as you know someone will try the latter. No more flipping through. Just pick your poison and listen. Is this correct?

Now those features I find very attractive. I don't see any other competitor in its price range at this point. IE Game Over!!!! The last test will be durability & quirks.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Interesting that you can actually have a high level input or rca input into the unit and change that with a switch on the bottom of it. I am scouring the manual now, will post other tidbits I find as well.


----------



## nismos14

It's incredible how much they packed into this unit. They also brought the sound retriever into this unit and brought ASL back, great feature IMO!


----------



## Bayboy

^^^^^^ As soon as my paypal money clears this is a must have for me. I honestly believe it will outpace the DQX in my system. The lack of lower midbass lpf points can be easily made up by using -0db slope and using an amp that's capable. Same as for hpf for a widebander... Way more flexible than just DQX xover!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Now I'm really intrigued as to why Crutchfield will not carry the Pioneer. Concerns of severly crippling other headunit sales within its price range??? [email protected]#k this!!! I can't holdout any longer.... calling J&R right now!!!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

DONE!!!! WOOOHOOO!!!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Not really sure why Crutchfield won't carry it either. I think it is more about cannibalizing their higher end processor sales. Namely the Alpine, JBL and even Pioneer's own DEX-P99RS. 

The DEH-80PRS is plenty powerful enough for most people. If they had that in their inventory, they would likely have a hard time upselling people to the other processors.


----------



## Bayboy

May be an error, but when I googled DEH-80PRS on my phone before I placed the order Crutchfield came up in the list of sellers. I clicked on the link and sure enough it was on their site saying out of stock. Did they change their minds??? Probably saw the preorder sales and wanted their piece of the pie??

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Odd. They do have it listed now. Oh, well. Too little, too late for me. The free installation gear is nice, but I can pick that up anywhere fairly cheap. I'm betting you are right about them changing their minds. I'd imagine they got quite a few phone calls on the unit.


----------



## nismos14

I doubt the other companies disclosed the pre-order sales volume to Crutchfield.


----------



## rton20s

I don't think anyone disclosed pre-order sales numbers to Crutchfield. That just wouldn't happen. I am sure they are aware of the buzz the HU has generated in forums like this. And as I mentioned before, I would bet they got a significant number of calls inquiring about it. I think it is the right move on their part. And if I hadn't already ordered from J&R, I would likely be placing my order through Crutchfield.


----------



## Bayboy

I don't think they would do that either, but I'm sure they sensed the demand. After a bunch of requests brick walled forcing customers to go elsewhere you know that's got to hurt when they tallied it up.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Take a wider viewpoint.... if you were into retail and wanted to be successful then you need a research team. You won't get info from other companies but you can get a good figure just by reading this thread amongst others like rton20s hints. Google up DEH 80PRS and see what comes up. Heck, look at the dealers on this site alone that are able to get first dibs just by scanning the boards. Pretty smart move IMO.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

Guys Crutchfield isn't new at this. They've dealt with thousands of anticipated items over the years. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## darrenforeal

For those who spoke with the people at JR and pre-ordered one. When did they say they would certainly have them and ship them out?


----------



## Bayboy

duro78 said:


> Guys Crutchfield isn't new at this. They've dealt with thousands of anticipated items over the years.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


We are well aware of that.... just curiosity of why they were not going to carry it at first is all. Free install gear with a price match would have been nice.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

darrenforeal said:


> For those who spoke with the people at JR and pre-ordered one. When did they say they would certainly have them and ship them out?


The salesman could not give a guaranteed date. He just said, "probably within the next week or two."


----------



## Bayboy

Doesn't matter to me although I'm quite ecstatic. The main thing was locking in on the $300 shipped sale made it sweeter. I see someone added the extra warranty. It wasn't mentioned over the phone, but how much and what's the terms?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

I added it. $30 for an additional year, no questions asked, direct exchange. I'm typically not one for extended warranties (for anything), but went ahead with it on this one.


----------



## Bayboy

That's pretty decent, especially the no questions asked. I don't usually add extra warranties either, but when you start paying over a certain amount per item it just makes more sense. Never had a problem with Pioneer beyond normal wear & tear which may require a new face. Those units didn't cost much either, most lasted beyond switching gear and being sold.


----------



## darrenforeal

rton20s said:


> The salesman could not give a guaranteed date. He just said, "probably within the next week or two."


thanks. tempted to order this to replace my Eclipse CD7000 in my daily driver


----------



## nismos14

I would replace the cd7000 with this in a heartbeat!


----------



## darrenforeal

nismos14 said:


> I would replace the cd7000 with this in a heartbeat!


 yeah, I am thinking I will. I love my p99 in my other car so much, I want to get one for this car too. But it is supposed to be my "budget" setup. lol


----------



## rton20s

darrenforeal said:


> yeah, I am thinking I will. I love my p99 in my other car so much, I want to get one for this car too. But it is supposed to be my "budget" setup. lol


Yeah, nothing says "budget" like a $1200 head unit. 

While many in here would consider my install a "budget," it is more of a mid-range type build for me. The DEH-80PRS seems to fit the bill perfectly. Especially since it means not investing in an MS-8 or Bit.Whatever on top of a decent HU.

(By the way, all of my brand new speakers, sub, amp and head unit combined have cost me less than a P99.)


----------



## darrenforeal

rton20s said:


> Yeah, nothing says "budget" like a $1200 head unit.
> 
> While many in here would consider my install a "budget," it is more of a mid-range type build for me. The DEH-80PRS seems to fit the bill perfectly. Especially since it means not investing in an MS-8 or Bit.Whatever on top of a decent HU.
> 
> (By the way, all of my brand new speakers, sub, amp and head unit combined have cost me less than a P99.)


Yeah, I hear ya. And I meant "budget" compared to my other setup. Just bought a black TRU billet 6 stage III and line 6 to replace a zapco and arc audio amp I have in there. The system in that car is worth more than some cars. ugh. spent too much...lol. 

I just dunno if the 80prs will have the processing like the bit ten or what not. But it seems like it may be able to get the job done. Asking my fiancé for it for my birthday i think


----------



## avanti1960

Not a good sign. My homies ABT electronics just delisted the 80PRS- they were the first site to accept preorders. i wonder what gives? 
my rep who works there told me pioneer was getting snobby in their exclusivity of certain products to crutchfield- they pulled the DEX-P99 from ABT a few months ago.


----------



## nismos14

They may have sold out of the stock they were going to have. I'm not too concerned.


----------



## rton20s

Agreed. And if I'm not mistaken, Pioneer pulled the P99 from EVERYBODY except Crutchfield. I don't think any of the brick and mortar stores even sell it now. I think Crutchfield is now the only place in the country that can sell "Stage 4" gear now.


----------



## avanti1960

but why would it be listed as discontinued?


----------



## nismos14

I can't even find it on ABT, so IDK where you get that it's listed as dc'ed. Lol Again, I'm not worried.


----------



## nismos14

I see it now, but I doubt it's dc'ed, it says dc'ed OR no longer available.


----------



## atxtrd

Went by my local Pioneer dealer yesterday and was told $349 (map) and delivery in early April. I was told they ordered 18 units and the first shipment would only be 5 units. They have a waitng list of people wanting this unit as well. None of my wholesale suppliers sell Pioneer so I may just buy one local. I'm sure I could beat $349 online but I like the idea of supporting a local business.


----------



## Bayboy

First production amounts probably are limited and given to retailers with the most orders. Not a big deal IMO. More will be made I'm sure. Just hope the first batches are flawless... It's ironically good that Pioneer considers the 80PRS somewhat of an exclusive if that's the case. Could be a sign that some pride was put into the unit.


----------



## Bayboy

WTH??? Crutchfield lists the 80prs as not fitting my baby?!  Rat face bastards! Oh it's gonna fit! I already paid for it, I want it, it's going in!


----------



## bigjae1976

Here's a site where you can pre-order...

DEH-80PRS - Pioneer Reference Series Single DIN CD Receiver at Abt

Question. I have an Eclipse AVN6620, Audiocontrol Overdrive and DQX in a 3 way active setup (6.5" comps up front with 1 12" sub). I want to simplify my system and I was looking at the DEX-P99. Seems like this would be a more cost effective alternative. If I'm reading things right, all I'm giving up is 15 bands of equalization, copper chassis, and CD Changer/Sat radio by going with the DEH-P80RS vrs the DEX-P99? This would almost be a no-brainer.

Do they even make CD changers any more? If they do...I want would like to buy an in-dash cassette player. With cutting edge Auto-Logic. I'm kidding!


----------



## Bayboy

Don't discredit the tuning power of the DQX. Giving up 31 l/r bands plus 2 parametrics is quite a bit. The main difference from the DQX to using the 80PRS is time alignment plus a few other features that's not necessary for SQ. Most of the attraction of it is being an all in one cheap solution to a separate processor, but make no mistake, it is not the end all be all. You will have to decide if it will improve what you have or are you just wanting the extra features as well.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy said:


> WTH??? Crutchfield lists the 80prs as not fitting my baby?!  Rat face bastards! Oh it's gonna fit! I already paid for it, I want it, it's going in!


Ha! Crutchfield said the same thing about my xB, which is ridiculous. There is absolutely no reason it won't fit. Probably just something they do as a place holder until they actually have the units in stock.


----------



## Bayboy

Probably a minor depth issue but nothing that can't be worked around like using right angle rca ends. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## bigjae1976

Bayboy said:


> Don't discredit the tuning power of the DQX. Giving up 31 l/r bands plus 2 parametrics is quite a bit. The main difference from the DQX to using the 80PRS is time alignment plus a few other features that's not necessary for SQ. Most of the attraction of it is being an all in one cheap solution to a separate processor, but make no mistake, it is not the end all be all. You will have to decide if it will improve what you have or are you just wanting the extra features as well.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


The DQX is probably bit much for my needs nowadays. When I occasioanlly competed in SQ, it was awesome! Yes, the combo of the 31 band EQ AND the parametric EQ was great.

I don't ever use DVDs or video. My backup cam hasn't proven to be very useful...more than a gee whiz thing. I use my iPhone as nav. I'm into the track more than car audio now. I still want excellent sound from a single din and reduce some of the components and weight. I have a ****-ton of wires and cables. I'm even considering going with an Fi Q12 to replace my AA Havoc 12 which would save about 15 lbs and then replacing my Sundown amps with Alpine PDXs or JL HDs

I think I'm going to give this head unit a try over the summer. I guess if I don't like it, I can spring for the DEX-P99rs. The DACs and 3 way preamp outputs are really appealing. Even more if you could underlap the xover points (for example, the mid output low pass is not fixed by the hi output hi pass like it is on the DQX). I've got my car setup to the point where I don't need to play with the EQ very much. I just need a small adjustment around 150hz and 4khz using the parametric bands on my DQX and it sounds great! I just want to see what the EQ frequencies are on the DEH-P80. I'm pretty sure I would need them to be somewhat close.


----------



## flomofo

I just preordered from Crutchfield for 350 with install gear on phone, so no discounts or anything.

Wife might keep Sat radio in her new car and hers came with HD Radio which is really helpful for bay area stations I listen too.... but I'm still sticking with this thing... for now

Havent had a radio in my car for it seems like two months now on a two to three hour commute sometimes so this thing better blow me away.


----------



## rton20s

bigjae1976 said:


> I just want to see what the EQ frequencies are on the DEH-P80. I'm pretty sure I would need them to be somewhat close.


http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_OperationManual020712.pdf#page28


----------



## bigjae1976

flomofo said:


> I just preordered from Crutchfield for 350 with install gear on phone, so no discounts or anything.
> 
> Wife might keep Sat radio in her new car and hers came with HD Radio which is really helpful for bay area stations I listen too.... but I'm still sticking with this thing... for now
> 
> Havent had a radio in my car for it seems like two months now on a two to three hour commute sometimes so this thing better blow me away.


Do you have to call to order? I don't see it on their website.


----------



## rton20s

If you do a google shopping search for DEH-80PRS it will show the Crutchfield listing. If you don't care about installation accessories, a call to J&R will net you a better price.


----------



## Bayboy

bigjae1976 said:


> Even more if you could underlap the xover points (for example, the mid output low pass is not fixed by the hi output hi pass like it is on the DQX). I've got my car setup to the point where I don't need to play with the EQ very much. I just need a small adjustment around 150hz and 4khz using the parametric bands on my DQX and it sounds great! I just want to see what the EQ frequencies are on the DEH-P80. I'm pretty sure I would need them to be somewhat close.




Trust me, I know exactly what you're talking about. I have said to myself over and over again if they only made 3 separate inputs where at least a t/a hu could still run the DQX, plus give staggered xover options AC would be back in the winner's circle. 

There's still one advantage to already having the DQX. It has equity that I would be willing to trade up on a DQS to go in conjunction with a unit like the 80prs. I've been ridiculed for that thought (anti-budget wise), but I think it makes a good option for manual tuning with the HU still in control. Individual eq for each driver?! That has got to be eargasmic!!


----------



## nismos14

bigjae1976 said:


> The DQX is probably bit much for my needs nowadays. When I occasioanlly competed in SQ, it was awesome! Yes, the combo of the 31 band EQ AND the parametric EQ was great.
> 
> I don't ever use DVDs or video. My backup cam hasn't proven to be very useful...more than a gee whiz thing. I use my iPhone as nav. I'm into the track more than car audio now. I still want excellent sound from a single din and reduce some of the components and weight. I have a ****-ton of wires and cables. I'm even considering going with an Fi Q12 to replace my AA Havoc 12 which would save about 15 lbs and then replacing my Sundown amps with Alpine PDXs or JL HDs
> 
> I think I'm going to give this head unit a try over the summer. I guess if I don't like it, I can spring for the DEX-P99rs. The DACs and 3 way preamp outputs are really appealing. Even more if you could underlap the xover points (for example, the mid output low pass is not fixed by the hi output hi pass like it is on the DQX). I've got my car setup to the point where I don't need to play with the EQ very much. I just need a small adjustment around 150hz and 4khz using the parametric bands on my DQX and it sounds great! I just want to see what the EQ frequencies are on the DEH-P80. I'm pretty sure I would need them to be somewhat close.


Keep in mind the 80prs only does 3-way active with sub, so Sub, Mid, Tweet. The P99 does Sub, Midbass, Midrange, Tweet. 

With the 80prs you should be able to do whatever you want with crossovers under or overlap. It won't be fixed to the lp or hp of one another.


----------



## Bayboy

True. If you ever got used to using the DQX and ventured further by implementing passives between a mid & tweet, then one should have no problem doing the same with the 80PRS. As long as the mid & tweet are kept in close proximity t/a will still be usable. You would have to double check xover points available on the hu, but that's part of diy. There's always a work around. Don't forget the use of wideband drivers as well....

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

"
We are sorry to inform you that the following item(s) you ordered are currently not in stock. We have these on order with the manufacturer, and hope to have them available shortly. We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause you. Please be assured that we are doing our best to obtain these for you as quickly as possible. If this is a "special order" or a "pre-order" item, please be aware that this email is automatically sent on all orders that are waiting for stock to arrive. There is no need to contact us for a substitution on pre-orders or special orders. If you would like to contact us, please use the information below."

I think they may have these on order/ en route now from the Manuf.


----------



## rton20s

Who did you order through? If it was J&R, I haven't received an email yet.


----------



## nismos14

J&R, my buddy didn't get one yet either.


----------



## ChrisB

Bayboy said:


> True. If you ever got used to using the DQX and ventured further by implementing passives between a mid & tweet, then one should have no problem doing the same with the 80PRS. As long as the mid & tweet are kept in close proximity t/a will still be usable. You would have to double check xover points available on the hu, but that's part of diy. There's always a work around. Don't forget the use of wideband drivers as well....
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


Lots of luck using Pioneer's new lower cost head unit with a full range driver. According to the manual, these are the settings available for the tweeter:

1.25k - 1.6k - 2k - 2.5k - 3.15k - 4k - 5k - 6.3k - 8k - 10k - 12.5 k (Hz)

Those settings rule out the DEH-80PRS for use in my system. I'm holding out hope that the Clarion CZ702 will let me cross the "tweeter" over lower.

As for the title of the thread, the Alpine CDA-117 is a distant memory and I have yet to see an affordable processor that works with their new CDE line of Ai-Net free head units.


----------



## nismos14

ChrisB said:


> Lots of luck using Pioneer's new lower cost head unit with a full range driver. According to the manual, these are the settings available for the tweeter:
> 
> 1.25k - 1.6k - 2k - 2.5k - 3.15k - 4k - 5k - 6.3k - 8k - 10k - 12.5 k (Hz)
> 
> Those settings rule out the DEH-80PRS for use in my system. I'm holding out hope that the Clarion CZ702 will let me cross the "tweeter" over lower.
> 
> As for the title of the thread, the Alpine CDA-117 is a distant memory and I have yet to see an affordable processor that works with their new CDE line of Ai-Net free head units.


How low are you trying to go with tweeter? I mean if it's that low, most amps can even high pass up to 1k.


----------



## ChrisB

nismos14 said:


> How low are you trying to go with tweeter? I mean if it's that low, most amps can even high pass up to 1k.


Since I have the SoundStream RF3.6c Components, I was planning on using the passives for the mid/tweet and sending 400 Hz and up to them. Since the mid and tweeter will be mounted on the same axis plane, I was hoping to get by cheap and just use a 2-way plus sub active HU... 

Call me jaded or call it experience, but I do not see the value in spending close to $1,700 for just a double din hu and an outboard processor. It just isn't worth it to me to spend that kind of money on car audio these days. After all, I had a fully active capable setup with time alignment in my wife's 2006 Mazda Tribute with than $900 in the WHOLE system.

EDIT: I guess option B would be to sell the Soundstream components and use the Genesis 2 way components that I have on hand. Then I'd only have to hope that Pioneer addressed the Pico fuse issue.


----------



## Bayboy

Don't worry.... we all got scammed together! LMAO!!!!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy said:


> Don't worry.... we all got scammed together! LMAO!!!!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


Scammed in terms of capabilities, or the J&R pre-order? 

In terms of capabilities, I'm not seeing anything too surprising at all. In terms of the pre-order, I just have to remind myself to be patient. The unit hasn't even been released yet!


----------



## Bayboy

On the j&r order of course. I don't think there will be too many, if any at all, misrepresentations in the manual. By now everyone should know what they've gotten into. You're either jumping on the bandwagon or actually have a need for the unit. I'm in the latter. I need t/a to get this blazer right with it's limited room and this was one of the less expensive ways to do it plus still have l/r eq. 

It's the general impatience that's bothering some, so I lent some words of comfort.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## WLDock

ChrisB said:


> Lots of luck using Pioneer's new lower cost head unit with a full range driver. According to the manual, these are the settings available for the tweeter:1.25k - 1.6k - 2k - 2.5k - 3.15k - 4k - 5k - 6.3k - 8k - 10k - 12.5 k (Hz) Those settings rule out the DEH-80PRS for use in my system.
> 
> Since I have the SoundStream RF3.6c Components, I was planning on using the passives for the mid/tweet and sending 400 Hz and up to them. Since the mid and tweeter will be mounted on the same axis plane, I was hoping to get by cheap and just use a 2-way plus sub active HU...



Well.......it might work with some small mid/tweet passive combos in some systems.

With a *1.25KHz* crossover point & *6dB/oct slope*
-6dB down @ 625Hz
-12dB down @ 312.5Hz
-18dB down @ 156.25Hz
-24dB down @ 78.13Hz


In comparison...if lower values were available on the TWEETER crossover:

With a *400Hz* crossover point & *12dB/oct slope*
-12dB down @ 200Hz
-24dB down @ 100Hz

With a *400Hz* crossover point & *18dB/oct slope*
-18dB down @ 200Hz
-36dB down @ 100Hz

With a *400Hz* crossoer point & *24dB/oct slope*
-24dB down @ 200Hz
-48dB down @ 100Hz


----------



## nismos14

ChrisB said:


> Since I have the SoundStream RF3.6c Components, I was planning on using the passives for the mid/tweet and sending 400 Hz and up to them. Since the mid and tweeter will be mounted on the same axis plane, I was hoping to get by cheap and just use a 2-way plus sub active HU...
> 
> Call me jaded or call it experience, but I do not see the value in spending close to $1,700 for just a double din hu and an outboard processor. It just isn't worth it to me to spend that kind of money on car audio these days. After all, I had a fully active capable setup with time alignment in my wife's 2006 Mazda Tribute with than $900 in the WHOLE system.
> 
> EDIT: I guess option B would be to sell the Soundstream components and use the Genesis 2 way components that I have on hand. Then I'd only have to hope that Pioneer addressed the Pico fuse issue.


That makes sense, I agree about the double din + processor issue. The Clarion will probably have the xover points you need if it's anything like the 775/785.


----------



## Bayboy

One thing for all to remember, the 80prs is not a be all end all product. Just like other viable products including the MS8, Alpine processors, Audiocontrol, etc.. there will be some limitations on what it can accomplish without some manipulation or additions or the user's end. However, that last statement is key if you have a creative mind and are willing to make some sacrifices or changes. What makes it possible on this unit is price especially if you caught the preorder sale.

One of the main features that's very attractive is the available slopes. Even though the xover points are somewhat limited, you do have the option of using a very shallow -6db slope that allows a good amount of bleed through. It also goes down to a -0db slope which is another term for "OFF". It is the latter that makes incorporating your own manipulation much easier and there's nothing wrong with that whether using passives or something as simple as an inexpensive analog xover with dual inputs/outputs. They go for so cheap now and this includes using ones built into amps. 


You just have to be creative & stop relying on finding the end all be all unless you have bottomless pockets. Now I won't say that the 80prs will work for everyone, but what I will say is manipulation is your best friend if you can't afford or don't want a major outboard processor. That's regardless of what head unit you opt for.


----------



## rton20s

I’ll just throw in my 2 cents as to why I went ahead with my pre-order on the DEH-80PRS. 

I’ve given myself a fairly limited budget for my build, but what I really wanted more than anything was flexibility (convertible components, six channel amp) and a stealth install (stock speaker locations, pretty hidden sub). I’m not bent on an ultimate SQ system, I just want it to sound good. I was never even initially considering going active, but after visiting this forum and talking to a few reputable shops, I started leaning that direction. 

Looking around at the end of last year, I thought in order to go active I would have to skimp on my sub stage and/or amp in order to get a lower end processor. When the DEH-80PRS was announced, it looked like the perfect option for me to get an introduction into going active without having to break the bank. And with the dual mode the HU offers, it keeps well with my “flexibility” theme. 

I will say that I purchased the HU despite advise from some very knowledgeable people (some in this forum) to go a different route. Their biggest concern was lack EQ bands, even though it is far more capable than the majority of HU’s out there. In comparison to most of the outboard processors available now, it does fall short. 

I just figured I owed it to myself (and my wallet) to give the DEH-80PRS a go first before diving into the added expense of an MS-8 or Bit.Whatever. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see if my order was too hot, too cold, or just right.


----------



## Bayboy

^^^^ Exactly! Couldn't have explained it better myself!


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> I’ll just throw in my 2 cents as to why I went ahead with my pre-order on the DEH-80PRS.
> 
> I’ve given myself a fairly limited budget for my build, but what I really wanted more than anything was flexibility (convertible components, six channel amp) and a stealth install (stock speaker locations, pretty hidden sub). I’m not bent on an ultimate SQ system, I just want it to sound good. I was never even initially considering going active, but after visiting this forum and talking to a few reputable shops, I started leaning that direction.
> 
> Looking around at the end of last year, I thought in order to go active I would have to skimp on my sub stage and/or amp in order to get a lower end processor. When the DEH-80PRS was announced, it looked like the perfect option for me to get an introduction into going active without having to break the bank. And with the dual mode the HU offers, it keeps well with my “flexibility” theme.
> 
> I will say that I purchased the HU despite advise from some very knowledgeable people (some in this forum) to go a different route. Their biggest concern was lack EQ bands, even though it is far more capable than the majority of HU’s out there. In comparison to most of the outboard processors available now, it does fall short.
> 
> I just figured I owed it to myself (and my wallet) to give the DEH-80PRS a go first before diving into the added expense of an MS-8 or Bit.Whatever. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see if my order was too hot, too cold, or just right.



What do you mean by dual mode?


----------



## rton20s

3-Way Network Mode and Standard.


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> 3-Way Network Mode and Standard.


As opposed to? All the active decks I've used can be ran in either mode as well.


----------



## rton20s

As opposed to using a non-active head unit, or shelling out a lot more cash for a stand alone processor which I may, or may not need. 

I wasn't implying that the DEH-80PRS was completely unique, but that it does seem to fit my "wants" quite well. Probably better than anything else currently out there. Hence the pre-order. Though, I really do look forward to seeing the results of your comparison to the CZ702!


----------



## nismos14

Gotcha. I think both decks are going to be great, however I have a gut feeling that the CZ702 will win out mostly because of the cost.


----------



## bigjae1976

nismos14 said:


> Keep in mind the 80prs only does 3-way active with sub, so Sub, Mid, Tweet. The P99 does Sub, Midbass, Midrange, Tweet.
> 
> With the 80prs you should be able to do whatever you want with crossovers under or overlap. It won't be fixed to the lp or hp of one another.


Thanks...I only need a 3 way crossover. So this will work. I'm pretty sure I will go with this in the summer. First, I've got to undo the previous install and run more RCAs.


----------



## Bayboy

At the Clarion's cost I'm sure it will compare fine! 6 bands of parametric is a lot and no one should overlook that. Between the two I'm not sure there can be a comeback from Alpine since they're so bent on use of the PXA-H100. It would take a price drop or abandonment altogether IMO to get into the arena with the Clarion & Pioneer. This is a good thing. The imprint is pretty much a failure regardless how inexpensive it is simply because they're designing it to couple with headunits worth 2-3 times that much depending on where you get it. Let's say you pay normal Crutchfield prices and couple that with a middle of the road Alpine unit. That's somewhere in the range of $500! I'd much rather sink that on a MS8 and a lesser hu and still have far better options & control. Especially considering what the MS8 goes for now.


----------



## rton20s

Agreed. Alpine was never even really a consideration for me. Far too much of an investment for what they are offer. Just as you said, I’d just as soon pick up a less expensive HU with the features I want and invest in a stand-alone processor.


----------



## ChrisB

Bayboy said:


> One of the main features that's very attractive is the available slopes. Even though the xover points are somewhat limited, you do have the option of using a very shallow -6db slope that allows a good amount of bleed through. *It also goes down to a -0db slope which is another term for "OFF".* It is the latter that makes incorporating your own manipulation much easier and there's nothing wrong with that whether using passives or something as simple as an inexpensive analog xover with dual inputs/outputs. They go for so cheap now and this includes using ones built into amps.
> 
> 
> You just have to be creative & stop relying on finding the end all be all unless you have bottomless pockets. Now I won't say that the 80prs will work for everyone, but what I will say is manipulation is your best friend if you can't afford or don't want a major outboard processor. That's regardless of what head unit you opt for.


According to the manual, it only goes down to a 0 dB slope on the mid. The choices listed for the HighHPF are -24, -18, -12, and -6 dB/oct.

I'm waiting for the Clarion manual before I get my hopes up again.


----------



## Bayboy

According to the manual it depends on if you're using it in standard mode or 3-way mode which makes sense. It would not be in 3-way mode if you turned off (-0db slope) parts of the xover. Looks like there's some sacrifices that are made when opting between the two modes. Standard mode loses phase adjustment on the front & rear channels, sub channel is allowed a -6db slope. In 3-way mode -0db slope is only allowed on the mid (hpf & lpf), plus minimum sub slope is increased to -12db.

It appears there are trade-offs, but nothing so harsh that it doesn't leave much options. Time alignment & eq are not affected when choosing between modes. Phase selection is only 180 in or out. A simple flipping of wire polarity does the same thing so you lose the difference of doing it on the hu.

As far as the Clarion, it's already a step down without L/R eq. To me that's entirely important after experiencing it. I think anyone that has used L/R eq before will agree. As to the xover points, we'll just have to wait & see. Though I hate to be cynical, something is telling me there will be further disadvantages to it's lower cost like the lack of playing WAV files.


----------



## nismos14

Bayboy said:


> According to the manual it depends on if you're using it in standard mode or 3-way mode which makes sense. It would not be in 3-way mode if you turned off (-0db slope) parts of the xover. Looks like there's some sacrifices that are made when opting between the two modes. Standard mode loses phase adjustment on the front & rear channels, sub channel is allowed a -6db slope. In 3-way mode -0db slope is only allowed on the mid (hpf & lpf), plus minimum sub slope is increased to -12db.
> 
> It appears there are trade-offs, but nothing so harsh that it doesn't leave much options. Time alignment & eq are not affected when choosing between modes. Phase selection is only 180 in or out. A simple flipping of wire polarity does the same thing so you lose the difference of doing it on the hu.
> 
> As far as the Clarion, it's already a step down without L/R eq. To me that's entirely important after experiencing it. I think anyone that has used L/R eq before will agree. As to the xover points, we'll just have to wait & see. Though I hate to be cynical, something is telling me there will be further disadvantages to it's lower cost like the lack of playing WAV files.


I wouldn't be surprised if the clarion has L/R 6 band PEQ, the 785 and 775 both allowed that.


----------



## Bayboy

Now that would be a major step up. Wonder why the manual has not come out yet. Would be nice if it's being held back for last minute software upgrades, but then again how much can we expect for $200?! We could keep assuming, being overly optimistic, or being cynical. The fact remains that no one will know anything for sure about either unit until they're shipped. That is the one thing that is killing us. Just ship the damn things!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## dblazian33

I was going to wait for this but ended up getting an MS-8 instead. I'm trying to have everything done by May so I'd be cutting it close. Hope it is as good as it looks.


----------



## Bayboy

^^^^ That's starting to sound like a better idea, but I still want bluetooth & Pandora! 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave-ROR

Bayboy said:


> We are well aware of that.... just curiosity of why they were not going to carry it at first is all. Free install gear with a price match would have been nice.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


When I talked to crutchfield awhile ago they never said they didn't plan to carry it just that it wouldn't be available to pre order until closer to the on-sale date..


----------



## nismos14

Crutchfield explicitly told me that they wouldn't carry it.


----------



## spl152db

nismos14 said:


> Crutchfield explicitly told me that they wouldn't carry it.


its on their website.


----------



## WLDock

rton20s said:


> I will say that I purchased the HU despite advise from some very knowledgeable people (some in this forum) to go a different route. Their biggest concern was lack EQ bands, even though it is far more capable than the majority of HU’s out there. In comparison to most of the outboard processors available now, it does fall short.


GOOD THING YOU DID NOT LISTEN TO THEM! With an MSRP of just over $400 the ALL-IN-ONE 80PRS is clean and a good buy! The L/R Independent 16-Band Digital EQ and (if needed) Auto Time Alignment and Auto EQ is enough power and control to get just about any system in any vehicle to listenable levels.

While a pro audio level of control that deals with DRC (Digital Room Correction - Time and Frequency correction!) like the Audyssey MultEQ XT, Behringer DCX 2496, Behringer DEQ 2496, DEQX, etc are nice...many car audio solutions far short of this level of DSP power....and this level ain't cheap! Some of the newer units out and coming out are better and more sophisticated (the MS-8 is one example) than the 80prs in this regard but they cost more...and they are just DSP units.

So, unless you are trying to go all out DSP....save your money and enjoy the 80PRS...let your ears decide if you need more control to reach your the level of fidelity that you are after.


----------



## nismos14

Dave-ROR said:


> When I talked to crutchfield awhile ago they never said they didn't plan to carry it just that it wouldn't be available to pre order until closer to the on-sale date..





spl152db said:


> its on their website.





nismos14 said:


> Crutchfield explicitly told me that they wouldn't carry it.



I was talking about in reference to the previous poster, earlier in this thread it was mentioned, probably by me that crutchfield wouldn't carry it, because that was what they told me. I know they have it now, but they did tell me that they weren't going to carry it, which is the whole reason I even looked for another vendor to get it from, hence my purchase from J&R, well before crutchfield had it available. 

Lol.


----------



## Bayboy

WLDock, I have to agree and that's one of the main reasons I opted for it as well. My hu is sorta primitive so I'm missing other options I want. The way I look at it is if you jumped onboard with J&R's sale price ($300) you're already ahead of the game. If you don't like it you don't stand to lose as much as those who have or are going to pay full price. This is especially if that sale price doesn't happen again or for a while. Win-win situation!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

WLDock said:


> GOOD THING YOU DID NOT LISTEN TO THEM! With an MSRP of just over $400 the ALL-IN-ONE 80PRS is clean and a good buy! The L/R Independent 16-Band Digital EQ and (if needed) Auto Time Alignment and Auto EQ is enough power and control to get just about any system in any vehicle to listenable levels.
> 
> _DSP INFO_
> 
> So, unless you are trying to go all out DSP....save your money and enjoy the 80PRS...let your ears decide if you need more control to reach your the level of fidelity that you are after.


I’m completely comfortable and confident in my purchase. And I have no illusions as to what the head unit should be capable of. It’s not like I’m trying to build, or expecting the performance and accuracy of a “Mini Magic Bus.” 

I have no plans at all to ever compete, and I’m just looking to step it up a bit from a bare bones build. As long as my ears are happy, I don’t think I’ll ever second guess the head unit selection. If, down the line, I decide the accuracy just isn’t there, I can always just throw more money at the issue and order up a stand-alone processor.


----------



## ChrisB

Bayboy said:


> ^^^^ That's starting to sound like a better idea, but I still want bluetooth & Pandora!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


I'm thinking about just starting out with the Mosconi DSP 6to8 and I have a friend who can hook me up on one. My factory HU already does bluetooth and will stream Pandora via bluetooth audio. Aside from my pillars, there will be no other obvious signs of an aftermarket sound system to the casual passerby whereas a double-din would probably scream "break this window to take me".


----------



## JAX

wow that cz702 is one ugly looking deck. makes the 785 look cool...

makes my current excelon kdc-x991 look ultra fantastic.

I will wait to see more pics of this new Pio otherwise I hope this 991 I have now lasts a long time. quite frankly I think it will be fine.


----------



## Dave-ROR

nismos14 said:


> Crutchfield explicitly told me that they wouldn't carry it.


Interesting. I talked to them about it twice and never got that. Especially strange with their love affair with Pioneer lately. 

Oh well either way it's up there now as you know. I preordered it from Crutchfield. Extra $50 over J&R but returns and so on have always been easy with crutchfield so it's worth it to me


----------



## nismos14

^ I hear you on that. Had the advisor told me that it was going to be available from them, I would have bought it from crutchfield instead.


----------



## WLDock

ChrisB said:


> I'm thinking about just starting out with the Mosconi DSP 6to8 and I have a friend who can hook me up on one. My factory HU already does bluetooth and will stream Pandora via bluetooth audio. Aside from my pillars, there will be no other obvious signs of an aftermarket sound system to the casual passerby whereas a double-din would probably scream "break this window to take me".


Sounds like you are set.....I would run away from this thread as fast as you can. 




JAX said:


> wow that cz702 is one ugly looking deck. makes the 785 look cool...


 Yeah, I think this one has to be seen in person or some non studio pics. It just looks so cheap in those web pics...like something made by DUAL...as a suburban teenage girl would say...EEWwwwl!!


----------



## Ziggy

heheheheh, I would have to agree I was thinking the same thing... thought the 785 was the ugly duck till that came along.


----------



## nismos14

You guys are crazy!


----------



## Bayboy

That's the first thing that came to mind when I saw it..... Dual!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## (s)AINT

Anyone who pre ordered their 80prs for $300 on J&R notice how their order disappeared?


----------



## nismos14

Mine is still there.


----------



## (s)AINT

I paid for mine on J&R via amazon payments and it was an open order last night and now I get a URL error when I check on the status.


----------



## Bayboy

nismos14 said:


> Mine is still there.


So are the rest of everyone elses.... In the warehouse & employees' rides. We all got scammed! They're keeping the 80prs to themselves! :laugh:


----------



## Techie

My order from J&R still shows up in my account.


----------



## darrenforeal

Called J&R today and pre-ordered one. They told me maybe they would get them at the end of march. But said, it's all on pioneer.


----------



## robert_wrath

They likely shipped all the units to people who paid the $349.99 posted on the site earlier.


----------



## nismos14

robert_wrath said:


> They likely shipped all the units to people who paid the $349.99 posted on the site earlier.


Shipped what units? They're not released yet?


----------



## Bayboy

This is getting pretty hilarious! Conspiracy theories now?! I got an idea..... call them up, ask what amps & speakers are they running with your HU, and how does it sound. LMAO!!!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

rofl.


----------



## WLDock

nismos14 said:


> You guys are crazy!


Well.....I am crazy...but the Clarion design engineers were tripping out this time.



























Now which one is the Clarion? Yeah....those guys were smokin something....and said "F"-IT!:laugh: They sure did not try very hard to make something unique...maybe they both used the same design engineering company?

But, given the price...I might have to put one in the wifes car...such a value.


----------



## Bayboy

Exactly why I thought Dual. Looks similar to the one I installed in a neighbor's ride. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Lol damn you guys.


----------



## rton20s

OK, this is starting to get a little out of hand. I had a dream about the DEH-80PRS last night! 

I showed up at some random shop I’d never been to before and asked them about the HU. They were very illusive until the guy behind the counter admitted they had received one, but that it was going to be their display. After a little coaxing, he finally brought it out. 

After pulling it from the packaging we discovered that it was actually a modularly stacked pair of ½ DIN units. The top half was the HU and the bottom half was the processor. He explained that Pioneer was planning to release other compatible HU’s and ½ DIN modules that allowed you to mix and match HU features (Bluetooth, Sat Radio, HD Radio, etc) with processor features (time alignment, PEQ, number of EQ bands, crossovers, phase control, etc). 

That was all I really remember. Bottom line is, these things need to show up so I can quit having whacked out dreams about car stereo equipment!


----------



## nismos14

W T F !!!!!!!! LMFAO


----------



## rton20s

Perfect… just got the email from J&R about “back order.” Hopefully they’re just doing this because they do not have a set date for delivery. 

“We are sorry to inform you that the following item(s) you ordered
are currently not in stock. We have these on order with the manufacturer,
and hope to have them available shortly. We sincerely apologize for any
inconvenience this may cause you. Please be assured that we are doing our
best to obtain these for you as quickly as possible. If this is a "special
order" or a "pre-order" item, please be aware that this email is
automatically sent on all orders that are waiting for stock to arrive.
There is no need to contact us for a substitution on pre-orders or special 
orders. If you would like to contact us, please use the information below.”


----------



## Bayboy

HOT DAMN!!! Causing nightmares now?! This is too funny! 

Well I will say this much, I've cancelled my order in fear of fitment issues. After doing some research in similar sized units, I've found that it greatly resembles the 9400 BH which is known to not fit my ride. The problem isn't the chasssis size, its where the rear connections are. I struggled to put in the one I have now, but the connection layout is different. I swear sometimes I should get rid of my truck! I'm not about to augment the dash else I'd go full fledge and do double din. I definitely don't want return issues after trying to install it. I didn't order from Crutchfield, but later on if I find out it may fit I'd rather pay the extra $50. As of now I doubt it.

So far I've got $300 not spent, another $320 sitting in paypal from amps sold, plus the equity of a used DQX w/ DDC I still have. Somehow I will find a way to get active with t/a in this damn truck! Sad day for me. I wish the rest of you guys the best of luck.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Sorry to hear it has come to that for you. Crutchfield still lists the DEH-80PRS as not fitting my xB, but it lists the DEH-9400BH as fitting. So I don’t think it will be an issue for me. Heck, I know there are people on this very forum who have stuffed amplifiers into xB dashes. We have quite a bit of room. 

Good luck in your quest to take the Blazer active.


----------



## nismos14

This site says it's available: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Bluetooth CD, MP3, iPod, Dual USB, Pandora w/ CrossOver, EQ & Time Allignment at Crazy Stereo I called them, the guy says "Our internet warehouse says it's in inventory, you can just add it to cart and order it" 

It states the CZ702 is going to be available 3/28 on their website as well. I wonder what's going on. I doubt they actually have the 80 in stock, and I doubt they know the release date of the 702... I guess we'll see.


----------



## Bayboy

rton20s said:


> Sorry to hear it has come to that for you. Crutchfield still lists the DEH-80PRS as not fitting my xB, but it lists the DEH-9400BH as fitting. So I don’t think it will be an issue for me. Heck, I know there are people on this very forum who have stuffed amplifiers into xB dashes. We have quite a bit of room.
> 
> 
> Good luck in your quest to take the Blazer active.


 
Yeah, if you can't fit the 9400BH you're just about screwed. After some in-depth browsing I do believe they're very similar. This does financially open the door to a better processor, but room to stealthily mount controllers is a task. As of now the DDC just lays in the glove compartment. 

Not to mention the MS-8's quirkiness in some installs makes for an expensive risk just to see if it will work. I'd love to have it though. Even thought about the Mini, but that means no on the fly adjustments. Damn damn damn.... back to square one! 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

It appears their system states they have 8 in stock. Who knows if that's true or not. I'm not gonna check out with that many, lol I don't have 2g's to spend.


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> This site says it's available: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Bluetooth CD, MP3, iPod, Dual USB, Pandora w/ CrossOver, EQ & Time Allignment at Crazy Stereo I called them, the guy says "Our internet warehouse says it's in inventory, you can just add it to cart and order it"
> 
> It states the CZ702 is going to be available 3/28 on their website as well. I wonder what's going on. I doubt they actually have the 80 in stock, and I doubt they know the release date of the 702... I guess we'll see.


I called and this is what I was told their warehouse received an email from their supplier stating a shipment was coming in within 24-48 hours and thats why they posted it as in stock. As of right now there are none their possession. I think they will be getting them the same time everyone else is


----------



## nismos14

Sweet, so maybe soon!


----------



## (s)AINT

False alarm with the J&R pre order for $300. The server was Down.

Still concerned with the order since the price went back to $350 since i pre ordered mine.


----------



## Bumpin' Goalie

Crutchfield informed me that the "does not fit" status is a precaution until they have units in-stock to measure, etc. Exact dimensions are available in the online owner's manual.


----------



## rton20s

(s)AINT said:


> False alarm with the J&R pre order for $300. The server was Down.
> 
> Still concerned with the order since the price went back to $350 since i pre ordered mine.


I'm not sure what else there is to be concerned with. Most everyone here got in on the $300 price. And I'd bet anyone still could by calling them direct like I did. Given they still have it listed for pre-order. 

Unless you think they're going to ship out to people who pre-paid $350 before those of us who paid $300? If that is the case, we can always cancel our orders and go elsewhere (Crutchfield or local) for MAP. In fact, I probably would out of principal.


----------



## (s)AINT

Bumpin' Goalie said:


> Crutchfield informed me that the "does not fit" status is a precaution until they have units in-stock to measure, etc. Exact dimensions are available in the online owner's manual.


I honestly don't see how any vehicle can possibly not house any given 1 din unit.


----------



## Bayboy

Most can, but it's not always that simple. Depth issues whereas vents, bracing, etc can have an effect as well and some people tend to forget what rca, usb, & antenna cables add.


----------



## gdean83

Tempted to sell theNIB 800prs sitting in my closet and upgrade to this for the usb


----------



## nismos14

gdean83 said:


> Tempted to sell theNIB 800prs sitting in my closet and upgrade to this for the usb


To be honest I would do that now before the potential drop in value of it.


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> To be honest I would do that now before the potential drop in value of it.


I was thinking the same thing a few days ago how are some guys asking so much for used 880's. One I saw was for $300. For $50 more a person could basically get an updated version with a lot more features and its nib. Even at $250 I thinks its a stretch. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

duro78 said:


> I was thinking the same thing a few days ago how are some guys asking so much for used 880's. One I saw was for $300. For $50 more a person could basically get an updated version with a lot more features and its nib. Even at $250 I thinks its a stretch.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I think you can still call J&R and get it for 299.99 too. So same price as a USED 880.

A bnib 800 should yield $400 right now, but once the 80prs is out, potentially a lot less.


----------



## gdean83

I don't have the post count to put it up in the classified section.


----------



## nismos14

eBay?


----------



## Bayboy

I'd put it up asap while the 80PRS is still unavailable. Once it hits the shelves and reviews come out, its predecessor may be on the chopping block.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## JAX

Bayboy said:


> I'd put it up asap while the 80PRS is still unavailable. Once it hits the shelves and reviews come out, its predecessor may be on the chopping block.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


Unless the new pio is inferior in build quality. I haven't seen a good enough pic to say if it's a step down .

If they go like all the rest of the deck makers then they are becoming cheesier each year. 

If its all plastic and cheap then that old 800/880 will be worth every dime to some. 

I had the 993/994/995 /701 kenwoods. While loaded they look like cheap crap next to my mint 991. After getting it I now see why they are never for sale. 

I don't expect the new pio to be anything like the stage 4 in build


----------



## nismos14

JAX said:


> Unless the new pio is inferior in build quality. I haven't seen a good enough pic to say if it's a step down .
> 
> If they go like all the rest of the deck makers then they are becoming cheesier each year.
> 
> If its all plastic and cheap then that old 800/880 will be worth every dime to some.
> 
> I had the 993/994/995 /701 kenwoods. While loaded they look like cheap crap next to my mint 991. After getting it I now see why they are never for sale.
> 
> I don't expect the new pio to be anything like the stage 4 in build


And it shouldn't be. We're talking 1/4 the price.


----------



## Bayboy

Jax, are you expecting the 80prs to actually lose resale value? 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## JAX

nismos14 said:


> And it shouldn't be. We're talking 1/4 the price.


Ok , maybe I shouldn't have compared the stage 4. 

But it's a fact that all the decks are cheaper made and not as well built. 

Your not paying that much cause all the money is in the tech and not the build quality. 

The cost of the old p9 was what ? 2x as much as the 850/860/950/960 etc. 

5yrs ago the head units still felt pretty good. Good displays. 

All I am saying is I havnt seen a good pic to know if it's the same build as the 800/880. 

If its cheasy then I don't see the 800/880 dropping in value because of the 80. 

I guess I am just skeptical of what you now get from pioneer for $350 retail


----------



## Danometal

If Sonicelectronix ever carries them, I'll get one for sure. I like my CDA-117, as it sounds awesome, but the lack of active Xovers (save a single HPF) is indeed the drawback of that unit.


----------



## WLDock

gdean83 said:


> Tempted to sell theNIB 800prs sitting in my closet and upgrade to this for the usb


IMO, I think you have that common car audio bug to purchase the latest and greatest. Just get the CD-UB100 and you will be set as far as USB goes.

But, I feel where you are coming from....I've thought about seeing how much I could get for my used in great condition 800PRS that I found for a great price ($165) on craigslist. Would be shooting for $300-$350. Just last fall new in box 800PRS decks were selling for $400-$500! So, I agree...if you are going to do it...you need to get it up on ebay this weekend! Many like the black finish and copper plate...IMO...that is why they don't show up too often and when they do...they net a higher price over the 880PRS. call it ebay 800PRS frenzy!


----------



## gdean83

The only reason I am even thinking about the 80prs is the usb. I'm thinking it might sound better to use the usb and a thumb drive than my phone or iriver and the aux input of the 800prs.


----------



## WLDock

JAX said:


> I guess I am just skeptical of what you now get from pioneer for $350 retail


Well, just think of how BIG Pioneer is and how far reaching their resources. All they needed to do was drop some unnecessary features (like copper plate, etc) and design a new PCB with addeed features all in one. Share the platform to other markets. Maybe lower, their margins a bit in hopes that the lower prices will net more sales....and here we have the "best" $419 MSRP All-In-One deck we have seen from them to date.

I think the big boys can do this and not loose quality where it counts.


----------



## nismos14

I don't think the 880/800 are all that solidly built. The face made all kinds of creaks and noises, and the MC knobs all faded and pealed. They looked nice and stayed looking nice if you never touch them...


----------



## sqnut

nismos14 said:


> I don't think the 880/800 are all that solidly built. The face made all kinds of creaks and noises, and the MC knobs all faded and pealed. They looked nice and stayed looking nice if you never touch them...


x10. Have run the p80rs and now the p-80rsII, the Asian model numbers for 880/800. Absolutely love the units for what they do, but for the price I paid I'd expect the control knobs not to be cheap plastic with a few mµ of metallic plating. Doesn't help that 98% of all functions are on one knob. Plus, both units have eject issues. The electronics though are bug free and very stable. Great units.

The ebay prices are a reflection of the lack of alternative for this level of dsp. Agree that used prices for the 800/880 will tumble. At the end of the day, these units require manual tuning to get the best sound for your respective environment. That takes time, whichever way you approach it. 

I expect there to be a frenzy for the unit once it comes out, but demand may slow down a bit over a year or so. It's still going to be a hit for Pio at that price point. The p-99's little brother for about a third of the price. Biggest bonus is 0 competition in this segment.


----------



## nismos14

^ I agree totally.

The only thing that I must say is that the Clarion comes in at an absolutely ridiculously low price point and looks like just as solid of a deck feature wise. 

Pioneer and Clarions latest offerings in the world of active decks pretty much incorporate _everything_ one could want in a HU. Minus a few things such as HD radio. I am thoroughly impressed with the 2012 offerings from both. 

I am also giving the NX702 a good hard look as a potential replacement for my DNX9960.


----------



## Bayboy

I believe there will be others. Latecomers, yes, but they will come. Just like the last wave some years back that had several brands bringing something to the table they will be forced to again or get left behind. It's entirely important for Pioneer & Clarion to do well with these 2 units if we want to see that happening. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> I am also giving the NX702 a good hard look as a potential replacement for my DNX9960.


I would be all over that NX702 if I had a bigger budget and a greater want for multi-media. As it is, 95% of my time in the car is done in a 10-15 minute commute to work. Not a whole lot of desire for multi-media in that short a distance.


----------



## WLDock

gdean83 said:


> The only reason I am even thinking about the 80prs is the usb. I'm thinking it might sound better to use the usb and a thumb drive than my phone or iriver and the aux input of the 800prs.


You do know that the 880/800PRS decks have the IP-Bus correct? You can add the CD-UB100 USB adapter to it to connect a USB device.

CD-UB100 - Connect your USB "Jump Drives" and MP3 Players | Pioneer Electronics USA









Chevrolet Cruze - pioneer 88 PRS II + CD UB100 USB - YouTube


----------



## JAX

Ok . Lol

Can I change my earlier statement from well made to "cosmetically more appealing "

When someone here stated the clarion looked like a "dual" head unit it was true 

My 1985 clarion pro was more appealing to me than what I saw so far on the latest .

I would pay $200 for my 991 if I had to. 

I will not pay over $200 for new kenwood till the do a redesign. It's tired already. 


I hope the new pio is the best ever for the enthusiast sake


----------



## Danometal

What is the model number for the Clarion spoken of here?


----------



## Bayboy

CZ702. You can't miss the Dual lookalike straight out of Tron! 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## JAX

Bayboy said:


> CZ702. You can't miss the Dual lookalike straight out of Tron!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


Lol. Tron. Lol 

Tron , the original Kurt Russell version


----------



## (s)AINT

JAX said:


> Lol. Tron. Lol
> 
> Tron , the original Kurt Russell version


Jeff bridges was the original Tron star, not Kurt Russell.


Still looks like a HU you'd pull off a shelf at wal mart though.


----------



## Bayboy

There's a controversy to be dealt with on the Clarion. If it performs well, can you live with it in your dash? Do you want something that performs well and looks like it's worth stealing like a 800, 880, P90, etc (and yes they're very attractive looking)? Not that anyone wants to show off their gear (at least I hope not), but when does it get to the point you just enjoy the music and not gawk at what you have? 

Both units have been ridiculed including from me as well (Clarion). Still at this point I would be happy just to have a competent all-in-one to be able to fit my dash without augmentations and move on to improving my install. Perhaps if the advertisement of the CZ702 didn't sport the Tron neon blue it wouldn't look so bad even though the light pattern sucks. If it was able to black out the unnecessary lighting would it be more palatable?


A second controversy is their lineup for this year seems very limited with the single DIN units all having the same appearance of the CZ702 which happens to be the top of the line? Yet, when you look at the CD-less DMR unit it is far more attractive, but has less features than the CZ702. That's very scary! The double DIN units are better looking as well, but again seem to miss some of the better features. All of the above are also much cheaper than their rivalries which brings to question the quality or lack thereof Clarion may have resorted to.


----------



## nepl29

Posted in Pioneer FB page.

Pioneer Electronics (North America)
Hi everyone, we've had a busy few weeks running our "March shipment" car electronics products through the final stages of QC (Quality Control) here in the U.S. prior to releasing them to our retailers.

Here's a quick update on the status of the following models (shipping status from our warehouses to our retailers - please be aware that it may take a few days for retailers to get the shipments on their shelves after they receive):

AVIC-X940BT: Shipped. Should be arriving to retailers now.
AVIC-Z140BH: Shipped, but a few days behind the AVIC-X940BT. Should be arriving to retailers early/mid next week.
DEH-80PRS: Shipping early next week.
AVH-P8400BH: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update next week.
AppRadio2: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update late next week.

Thanks and have a great weekend!


----------



## robert_wrath

WLDock said:


> Well.....I am crazy...but the Clarion design engineers were tripping out this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now which one is the Clarion? Yeah....those guys were smokin something....and said "F"-IT!:laugh: They sure did not try very hard to make something unique...maybe they both used the same design engineering company?
> 
> But, given the price...I might have to put one in the wifes car...such a value.


LOL, someone should start a new thread with these pics on the initial post.:laugh:


----------



## todd4198

nepl29 said:


> Posted in Pioneer FB page.
> 
> Pioneer Electronics (North America)
> Hi everyone, we've had a busy few weeks running our "March shipment" car electronics products through the final stages of QC (Quality Control) here in the U.S. prior to releasing them to our retailers.
> 
> Here's a quick update on the status of the following models (shipping status from our warehouses to our retailers - please be aware that it may take a few days for retailers to get the shipments on their shelves after they receive):
> 
> AVIC-X940BT: Shipped. Should be arriving to retailers now.
> AVIC-Z140BH: Shipped, but a few days behind the AVIC-X940BT. Should be arriving to retailers early/mid next week.
> *DEH-80PRS: Shipping early next week.*
> AVH-P8400BH: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update next week.
> AppRadio2: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update late next week.
> 
> Thanks and have a great weekend!


That's good to hear :beerchug:


----------



## darrenforeal

todd4198 said:


> That's good to hear :beerchug:


+ one


----------



## duro78

nepl29 said:


> Posted in Pioneer FB page.
> 
> Pioneer Electronics (North America)
> Hi everyone, we've had a busy few weeks running our "March shipment" car electronics products through the final stages of QC (Quality Control) here in the U.S. prior to releasing them to our retailers.
> 
> Here's a quick update on the status of the following models (shipping status from our warehouses to our retailers - please be aware that it may take a few days for retailers to get the shipments on their shelves after they receive):
> 
> AVIC-X940BT: Shipped. Should be arriving to retailers now.
> AVIC-Z140BH: Shipped, but a few days behind the AVIC-X940BT. Should be arriving to retailers early/mid next week.
> DEH-80PRS: Shipping early next week.
> AVH-P8400BH: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update next week.
> AppRadio2: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update late next week.
> 
> Thanks and have a great weekend!


I can attest to this. Ive been in contact with an online retailer and they stated pioneer contacted them the other day notifying them to expect a shipment within a few days.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## JAX

(s)AINT said:


> Jeff bridges was the original Tron star, not Kurt Russell.
> 
> 
> Still looks like a HU you'd pull off a shelf at wal mart though.


I have no idea why I said KR. I have seen both movies. duh.


----------



## Bayboy

Well it looks like you guys will soon be on your way to another venture without me. Ughhhh!! I've been deeply contemplating will an MS-8 work better in my favor, but gosh I hate adding more separate modules to piece together a system. A simple system consisting of a competent HU + 5 & 2 channel would have been nice, but oh well. The MS-8 is pricey, but fitting something in this dash (even if augmented) that can do it all including BT will be even pricier. I wanna go back to 4-way so it's all a matter of commitment at this point. 

Hopefully, with new products appearing some more MS-8s will pop up at deep discounted prices on the boards. If not, Sonics has the best BNIB price and is authorized. Will have to off more gear to do it though. Still gonna wait for a 80PRS review so I can drool from afar... :mean:


----------



## nismos14




----------



## WLDock

nismos14 said:


>


Yeah, the wife would love those colors!
But if money was tight.....I would be all over the Clarion for a budget SQ system.....one of those $700-$1000 systems. I'm declaring it *the BEST BUDGET DIY SQ DECK OF 2012!*


----------



## Bayboy

^^^ and you may very well be right! If the xover is more flexible than the 80PRS I would not be surprised to see some members opting for it. It may be ugly, but it does seem to have some merits at this point. I wish they would at least go ahead and spit out the manual.


----------



## ChrisB

Bayboy said:


> There's a controversy to be dealt with on the Clarion. If it performs well, can you live with it in your dash? Do you want something that performs well and looks like it's worth stealing like a 800, 880, P90, etc (and yes they're very attractive looking)? Not that anyone wants to show off their gear (at least I hope not), but when does it get to the point you just enjoy the music and not gawk at what you have?
> 
> Both units have been ridiculed including from me as well (Clarion). Still at this point I would be happy just to have a competent all-in-one to be able to fit my dash without augmentations and move on to improving my install. Perhaps if the advertisement of the CZ702 didn't sport the Tron neon blue it wouldn't look so bad even though the light pattern sucks. If it was able to black out the unnecessary lighting would it be more palatable?
> 
> 
> A second controversy is their lineup for this year seems very limited with the single DIN units all having the same appearance of the CZ702 which happens to be the top of the line? Yet, when you look at the CD-less DMR unit it is far more attractive, but has less features than the CZ702. That's very scary! The double DIN units are better looking as well, but again seem to miss some of the better features. All of the above are also much cheaper than their rivalries which brings to question the quality or lack thereof Clarion may have resorted to.


Hell, I'd be willing to bet that I could leave my doors unlocked in ANY bad part of town known for radio thefts and that Clarion would still be in the dash upon returning to the car.:laugh:


----------



## duro78

I'm curious why are non authorized retailers advertising the same price as authorized. Looking at pioneers site there's only about twelve or so authorized online retailers. Wth would be the point of paying the same price for a product that has no manufacturer backing. The cheapest I've seen the unit was $289 but most advertise a price of $350.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## (s)AINT

JAX said:


> I have no idea why I said KR. I have seen both movies. duh.


It's ok, I find it easy to mix up 80s badasses myself. For a long time I always thought Patrick swayze was in big trouble in little china and that Kurt Russell was the Road House guy lol


----------



## Bayboy

You can only get wholesalers to go down on the price so much. Pioneer is pretty strict on how much they let them go for.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sadus

tonesmith said:


> You have to listen in a car with the windows up, engine off and no one talking to hear the difference between flac and WAV. But audiophiles have convinced themselves otherwise.


Btw just to clarify, WAV *is* lossless too, just uncompressed. FLACs are just like when you .zip up some files, the .zip [FLAC in this case] is typically smaller but you get the exact same files back when you unzip. If you don't, the file is corrupted and should be thrown out. Lossless codecs all let you reproduce the original sound exactly the same by their very definition.

Now WAVs and FLACs can be at different bit depths (CD=16bit, DVD=24bit, audio programs can create 32 and 64bit files as well), but a WAV vs. FLAC at the same bit depth will be 100% identical since they are both lossless.


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> You can only get wholesalers to go down on the price so much. Pioneer is pretty strict on how much they let them go for.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


I understand what your saying but in the past if a customer wanted manufacturer backing they had to pay for it. That piece of mind came at a cost, a substantial one at that. So will the unauthorized retailers just hope the consumer doesn't know any better by choosing his site opposed to an authorized site. Keep in mind they're all advertising $350. Is pioneers pricing controlled whether its authorized or not? Just curious because its not what I'm used to seeing. If commonly practiced unauthorized sellers wouldnt exist because there'd be no benefit to the consumer due to the pricing being the same authorized or not. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

They basically have a minimum price that All have to pay regardless of authorized or not. It's up to the retailer to decide how much they're willing to profit. My dad used to have a wholesale catalogue. You'd be surprised how little of a discount you get for lot purchases when buying Pioneer products. That's why you don't see a large swing from the suggested price.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

I guess some unauthorized retailers just carry pioneer to satisfy a customer base even though there isn't much room for a profit. Thanks for clearing that up. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Oops double post


----------



## Bayboy

Put it like this Duro, get profits by high sales or high prices.... There's always people buying on either side of the fence like us. LOL!!!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Put it like this Duro, get profits by high sales or high prices.... There's always people buying on either side of the fence like us. LOL!!!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


I got ya, just not used to seeing the same pricing between the two. Anytime I price shop there's a substantial difference. I see what your saying

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ZAKOH

By the way, does this unit support gapless playback for mp3 files? I rip CDs with EAC, which preserves all gaps as a part of the mp3 file. It's annoying to hear between the tracks the artificial and incorrect gaps inserted by my Kenwood head unit.


----------



## nepl29

Bayboy said:


> They basically have a minimum price that All have to pay regardless of authorized or not. It's up to the retailer to decide how much they're willing to profit. My dad used to have a wholesale catalogue. You'd be surprised how little of a discount you get for lot purchases when buying Pioneer products. That's why you don't see a large swing from the suggested price.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


+1. Ive seen the dealer cost on it and you'd be surprised on how little is the mark up.


----------



## Bayboy

That's why it's important for these units to have large sale volumes else these all-in-one units could disappear from the market again like last time. If you place yourself in the mind of most current consumers unlike us, most refuse to pay $300 & up for a single DIN that has features they don't understand and/or will not utilize. Most start contemplating double DIN NAV or DVD units when they are willing to spend big bucks. This could be why both companies decided to offer something for far less than in the past. Most could care less or are ignorant to t/a, variable xover slopes, etc being incorporated into a single HU. 

You have to admit, if you did want these features and the units were far beyond $400 would you still opt for them or go for something with way more capabilities like an outboard processor? Also, don't forget that other lesser companies are offerering NAV, DVD, at these prices. No, aficionados like us wouldn't buy them, but remember we are talking about "regular" consumers that aren't so brand & spec stricken.


----------



## gmore

Excellent thread!

New to this forum - its been a while since I've been able to mess with car stereos and now that I am - glad to see products like the Pioneer and Clarion, especially at these prices.

FWIW, J&R online still shows the Pioneer for $299 and shopping J&R thru Discovercard.com is suppose to get 5% cash back - everything looks like it went thru fine. Net $284.84 !!!

I know all the Clarion specs aren't clear yet but best as I can tell, Pioneer advantages:

Dual USB (c - single)
SD card Slot
L/R 16-band EQ (c - 6-point shared?)
Auto time & EQ (c - time only?)
Burr Brown DA conv (c - ???)
WAV playback
???

I can definitely see why someone would go for the Clarion, but for an add'l $130 or so, given the advantages and my positive experience with Pioneer - committing to the DEH-80PRS was a an easy decision for me.

If there are other advantages I missed, or if the Clarion has any(6 button station select - none on the Pioneer?) - please post.


----------



## Bayboy

It's hard at this point to pit the two against one another. The Clarion is at the upper price point limit that most on a slim budget would spend. The Pioneer is priced at the lower edge of middle tier units and just enough before one would consider using the MS-8 which can be had at an authorized price of $529. That MS-8 price is also negotiable at Sonic so we could be talking about a span of $150 over the normal 80prs cost. The two head units seem to nicely nestle right where they appeal the most.


----------



## rton20s

The one thing you have to keep in mind when talking about margins of as little as $150 between the DEH-80PRS and an MS-8 is that most people are also still needing a new head unit. Bring that into he mix and you are probably looking at a minimum of a $300 difference. In many cases closer to $400-$500. 

I know this, because it is the exact position I was in before Pioneer announced the DEH-80PRS.


----------



## Bayboy

It depends on what the consumer is trying to add to their system. There are plenty of people that opt to keep the stock head unit, but want to make it sound better. Before the popularity of the MS-8 it wasn't so easy so some would just get a new head unit. With the price of the Audison units, most would probably just rip everything out and start over instead. Personally I've heard a few stock units that sounded good enough to leave alone or add to. Not a bad option, especially if it includes special functions tied into the steering wheel or other power options.


----------



## rton20s

I could completely understand keeping a stock head unit if it has all of he capabilities and features you want. Or, if it was very integrated into the cars other electrical systems. With a car like mine, an '04 xB, I think spending the money on a nice processor without getting a new head unit would be a complete waste. Same hold true for many older vehicles that don't have capabilities like bluetooth, USB, etc. 

Would you be running a processor off of your stock S-10 Blazer head unit?


----------



## Bayboy

:laugh: My truck is a 91. Probably had a cassette. Anyways, what exactly are you saying pertaining to what was mentioned?


----------



## atxtrd

I drive an 07 Tundra TRD and the factory HU is a pos, has a mini jack input, but still a pos. I have been stockpiling gear for an install and had made up my mind to buy a Kenwwod DNX9980HD, then changed my mind. I figure I already have a $150 Garmin nav unit on my windshield that works just fine and I have no desire to watch movies in my truck. SQ is what I'm really after so I would gladly pay over $350 for the features in this HU and still be satisfied. Another concern was some punk smashing a window out in order to get to that big ole screen in my dash. My space is limited so a processor was not something I really wanted to deal with either, adding one might mean bumping one of three amps out of the install due to lack of space on the amp rack behind the rear seat. I had a bnib Eclipse 8843 I was considering but sold it as soon as I saw the Pioneer features, it had everything I wanted and needed. I'm on the waiting list at a local shop/dealer and I'll willingly pay the $349 they quoted me. I want to do this install and be done, I've had some of this stuff sitting new in boxes for 3 years!


----------



## Bayboy

And that looks like a sound decision for you.

Let's be clear on something before anyone bandwagons an attempted rant (knowingly or unknowingly) please read thoroughly what is stated throughout this thread. As the pros & cons of both head units are pointed out by several members, some still seem to feel the need to over-validate their decision as if they are sacrificing their light bill, so I will restate this in a more comprehensible way.

Both units have something to offer. That's good! They are also not the end all be all, but are PRICED ACCORDINGLY SO. Compared to how much such a unit cost in the past & a processor that is beyond comparison to these units, that aspect is EXCELLENT! Had either of these units cost the same as a processor I seriously doubt they would be validated in the way they are given. Blue tooth & USB can be found on just about any modern HU so that is not a big contributing factor. I DO hope these units succeed so products of the like WILL continue to be produced.


----------



## nismos14

I can't wait till Fry's blows out the Clarions for like $100 Lol.


----------



## Bayboy

Now that would cause mass chaos. LOL. Didn't someone do that once with an earlier Clarion?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

They had the 775/785 for around $100 towards the end of their run


----------



## Bayboy

Oh ok. For some reason I kept thinking it was Newegg. Funny how they can get rid of them at those prices. They had to be taking a loss.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Who knows, but those were some screaming prices. I think they had them for 150 for a good while, and then went to like 140/130/ and then refurbs and then a few at the end for 100.


----------



## Bayboy

If they ever do something similar on a double DIN I'd be tempted to hack my dash. The Clarion units look pretty good.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

I hear ya. i'm pretty tempted to get an NX702


----------



## nismos14

Minus the color display this is how the 80prs will look, IMO looks pretty good:


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy, you seem to get defensive anytime someone posts something that doesn’t agree with you 100%. It really isn’t that big of a deal. 

I was simply stating that for most people in this thread (about a head unit) the difference between a DEH-80PRS and an MS-8 was more than just the price difference of “a span of $150.” The MS-8 is certainly more powerful than the DEH-80PRS, and it appears that the DEH-80PRS is more capable than the CZ702. They seem to be priced pretty appropriately, that we all seem to agree on. But to jump from the Pioneer head unit to the JBL processor will likely cost more than the difference in purchase price for a lot of the people viewing this thread. 

If it is simply a matter of $530 for an MS-8 or $350 for the DEH-80PRS a lot of people would consider the additional $180 money well spent. IF you have to factor in the additional cost of a new head unit (even one as simple as a DEH-6400BT), and the actual “street price” of the DEH-80PRS taking the leap makes it a bit more hard to justify. Then you’re looking at spending at least another $340+ for the capabilities of the MS-8. Not nearly as easy a decision to make. 

I know you’re now moving past the 80PRS due to fitment issues. I wish you the best of luck in trying to find what works best for YOU. And I really do look forward to seeing what you decide to go with and if it solves the issues you’ve mentioned with your Blazer.


----------



## t3sn4f2

nismos14 said:


> Minus the color display this is how the 80prs will look, IMO looks pretty good:


That's a shopped pic of the 9400bh. 80prs won't look anything like that.

It will look exactly like this though.  (With the appropriate language labels and model of course)

Google Translate


----------



## Bayboy

nismos14 said:


> Minus the color display this is how the 80prs will look, IMO looks pretty good:


After some research, that's exactly what I deduced, the 80PRS must be based off the 9400BH. It may be different, but looks similar enough to me. Then again I wear glasses. LOL Either way I don't see the issues in the cosmetics. Looks pretty good to me too. In fact my current Pioneer is similar, but everyone has their own tastes. I guess some were expecting the same style face as before? As for the Tron.... well. LOL

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Huh? They look almost identical except for color display on the 9400BH. Am I missing something?


----------



## nismos14

OH crap now I get it LOL.


----------



## Sulley

The Japanese version seams to have a very large knob... 


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## spl152db

stockley.rod said:


> The Japanese version seams to have a very large knob...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


overcompensating?


----------



## rton20s

stockley.rod said:


> The Japanese version seams to have a very large knob...


There is a very racist joke in there somewhere.


----------



## nismos14

Can't believe this HU has generated a 550+ post thread before it's even been released lmao.


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> Can't believe this HU has generated a 550+ post thread before it's even been released lmao.


No kidding! Come on guys, we can hit at least 600.


----------



## t3sn4f2

stockley.rod said:


> The Japanese version seams to have a very large knob...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


It's the same, the Japanese just removed the ugly ass trim bezel that makes all head units look cheesy. A tight fit and finish or no trim at all always makes everything look more precise and high end.

Take a guess at which ones below are the highend models. 



bikinpunk said:


>


(pic courtesy of Bikinipunk)


----------



## nismos14

Will easily be at 600 before this thing comes out and maybe 1500 after it does, lol.


----------



## Sulley

t3sn4f2 said:


> It's the same, the Japanese just removed the ugly ass trim bezel that makes all head units look cheesy. A tight fit and finish or no trim at all always makes everything look more precise and high end.


I want the Japanese version. Looks much better IMO, Regardless of protruding knobs...



Sent from my iPhone


----------



## Bayboy

rton20s said:


> Bayboy, you seem to get defensive anytime someone posts something that doesn’t agree with you 100%. It really isn’t that big of a deal.
> 
> I was simply stating that for most people in this thread (about a head unit) the difference between a DEH-80PRS and an MS-8 was more than just the price difference of “a span of $150.” The MS-8 is certainly more powerful than the DEH-80PRS, and it appears that the DEH-80PRS is more capable than the CZ702. They seem to be priced pretty appropriately, that we all seem to agree on. But to jump from the Pioneer head unit to the JBL processor will likely cost more than the difference in purchase price for a lot of the people viewing this thread.
> 
> If it is simply a matter of $530 for an MS-8 or $350 for the DEH-80PRS a lot of people would consider the additional $180 money well spent. IF you have to factor in the additional cost of a new head unit (even one as simple as a DEH-6400BT), and the actual “street price” of the DEH-80PRS taking the leap makes it a bit more hard to justify. Then you’re looking at spending at least another $340+ for the capabilities of the MS-8. Not nearly as easy a decision to make.
> 
> I know you’re now moving past the 80PRS due to fitment issues. I wish you the best of luck in trying to find what works best for YOU. And I really do look forward to seeing what you decide to go with and if it solves the issues you’ve mentioned with your Blazer.


Sorry for the late response as this reply would be a bit too long to post while at work. 

I do not believe I get defensive anytime someone doesn't agree with me 100%, but if I do, I apologize. I do recall that maybe we had a minor spat in this same thread before and I do not at this time or any other want to get into those details to say who said what or started whatever. That would be childish. I am no expert, so logical debates within reason are more than welcome.

Now, as to what I stated before pertaining to the 80prs' place amongst other options was meant as a positive note. This was not a poke at you or anyone else's personal cost factor or reason of use. With that I dare not say that it is a waste for someone to spend their money how they see fit (IE MS-8 on stock HU) just because their options will not include a few features that I personally want: 



rton20s said:


> I think spending the money on a nice processor without getting a new head unit would be a complete waste. Same hold true for many older vehicles that don't have capabilities like bluetooth, USB, etc.
> 
> Would you be running a processor off of your stock S-10 Blazer head unit?


 In the MS-8 thread I'm sure there's several using that processor with a stock headunit that have no desire to switch to the 80prs, Clarion, or any other unit. I pointed out that I personally have heard some stock decks that were good enough leave in place and just add processing. The owners agreed. Your reply coupled with the question of me using a stock head unit out of a known old Blazer seemed kind of off-kilter. Surely you didn't think I was still using a cassette deck? I saw it as being somewhat sarcastic. I replied to something I might have taken wrongly, but anyway, it's all water under the bridge. With that please accept my apology.


I also changed my mind on the Pioneer because of another issue.. After riding around for the past 2 weeks or so without my subs (I sold my back up & sub amps to fund another change up) I've come to realize I want to augment my front stage again to different drivers. My current ones aren't suitable enough for what I want out of them. I was in a debate about kicks or pillars and so far the pillars are winning. I want it implemented in a way to appear stock-like which makes driver choice stringent due to space limitations. 

Door mid bass, pillar wideband & small tweet, backed by a pair of Peerless 830876 are in the plan so far. With that, the 80prs will not work with ease for the xover points I plan to use. Right now I'm at a toss up of MS-8 or Mini DSP. I have to read more into what the Mini has to offer, but so far both have cons. I don't have space for the JBL display to look natural and the lack of on the fly controls for the Mini is not too appealing. Then again set it & forget it could be a good thing?!

When the Clarion manual comes out I will give that a look also for fitment & features. Damn I hate the CZ702's look, but if it will work, I just might have to look like I'm straight outta Tron when driving! I also may be looking at an amp switch to gain a couple of channels that will fit within the same space unless I build passives for the pillars. This could take a while to map out!


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

I'm not shocked that this thread has caused such a rise, in many good ways,though! 

As the market shifted over the pass few years, the SQ market was not the focus of many companies. With companies shifting production to China, it's been about max dollars at cheaper quality points. Given that we live in a disposable society of electrionic goods, this has been a match made in heaven for many big box companies. The smaller companies that focused on sound quality, many have fallen in our economic climate. 
Auto makers have made it harder to install aftermarket din units and auto makers have stepped up on offering better oem systems, guys like us and our needs were left in the dust. 

I'm glad to see that we're gaining options again in auto sound processors. With the advent of units such as the MS8,PS8, RF 360.3 and Bit One, options started opening up for us again. Outboard processing can be a costly option for many folks who can still fit a din or double din unit in their vehicles. We also need to understand that in our economic picture, anything over $500 may not be an option for many budgets. I know so many are willing to show how much they are willing to spend on certain products, as if the more paid the better the SQ shall be, and for those who can truly spend that much, hey, we wish them well, but for the avg Joe, looking for processing and drivers on a budget, the single din option is the best way to go as the centerpiece of their set up. At one point, this site was based on raw drivers, testing, and data to support the thought process behind eduated and cost effective purchases. 

I'm glad Clarion and Pioneer provide options in a single din units again. IMHO, I believe the Pioneer should have an MSRP of $300-$325,though. 

Rockford had a chance to really have a stronger marketshare with the 360.2, but they failed on the reliability of the bluetooth and a few units having a higher noise floor.


----------



## Bayboy

Agreed! For years I've done okay without outboard processors except for maybe a half-din eq. Now that things have become a bit more complex it also has open some attractive doors that were not there before. Unfortunately it costs a serious dollar to go through those doors. That is something that should not be happening. As an example, the 99prs is a nice unit, but I'll be damned if I'll pay that kind of dollar for just a head unit. Why is it such a large gap between the 80prs is beyond me. There's other ways to spread spending power to get similar results. The Mini DSP confronts such an issue amongst DSP units. You would have thought it's cost would have lowered cost on other dsp units at least a little bit.

What we need is more options on the table to settle prices a bit more! I had really hoped Kenwood, JVC, Alpine, & others would have stepped up this year. Hell, I even miss Panasonic being in the game. :laugh: Real talk though!


----------



## atxtrd

Bayboy said:


> Agreed! For years I've done okay without outboard processors except for maybe a half-din eq. Now that things have become a bit more complex it also has open some attractive doors that were not there before. Unfortunately it costs a serious dollar to go through those doors. That is something that should not be happening. As an example, the 99prs is a nice unit, but I'll be damned if I'll pay that kind of dollar for just a head unit. Why is it such a large gap between the 80prs is beyond me. There's other ways to spread spending power to get similar results. The Mini DSP confronts such an issue amongst DSP units. You would have thought it's cost would have lowered cost on other dsp units at least a little bit.
> 
> What we need is more options on the table to settle prices a bit more! I had really hoped Kenwood, JVC, Alpine, & others would have stepped up this year. Hell, I even miss Panasonic being in the game. :laugh: Real talk though!


My manufacturing experience tells me that this unit does not cost Pioneer any more to manufacture than some of their past higher priced units, they were just making a lot more margin! I think they have a pretty good guage on the current market and thus have taken the lead in offering units like the 80PRS at the sub $400 price point. If they did a deadhead they could get the cost even lower!


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

Bayboy said:


> Agreed! For years I've done okay without outboard processors except for maybe a half-din eq. Now that things have become a bit more complex it also has open some attractive doors that were not there before. Unfortunately it costs a serious dollar to go through those doors. That is something that should not be happening. As an example, the 99prs is a nice unit, but I'll be damned if I'll pay that kind of dollar for just a head unit. Why is it such a large gap between the 80prs is beyond me. There's other ways to spread spending power to get similar results. The Mini DSP confronts such an issue amongst DSP units. You would have thought it's cost would have lowered cost on other dsp units at least a little bit.
> 
> What we need is more options on the table to settle prices a bit more! I had really hoped Kenwood, JVC, Alpine, & others would have stepped up this year. Hell, I even miss Panasonic being in the game. :laugh: Real talk though!


Back in the day when I co owned a shop, we sold Eclipse when it first hit the U.S. shores. As you all know, Eclipse had an external DSP unit w/ a center channel, including an extra eq unit that could be installed. Price for the DSP, controler was roughly $1200 USD MSRP. Now, I know this was a while ago, and this unit was thought to be the top of the moutain in the digital domain vs. the 31 band units from Audio Control, but my point is, today, (given $1200 then would be closer to $2K now accounting for inflation), with the technology levels that we have now, no high line unit should go past the $ 500-600 mark. To charge over a grand for a P99, or close to a grand for a Bit One, to me, it's just too much mark up. Look at how TV technology has changed and how cheap an LCD TV can be. Look at our smartphones and the technology there and the price point. Who doesn't have a smartphone with at least a 1Ghz processor? 

I can see the reason for the love of an MS8. I personally have an MS8 in my wife's vehicle because it's the car we drive for most of our road trips and it's nice for the passenger (often me), to have a nice image as well upfront. The price for the unit, street prices, I can see, given what it will do for auto tuning and logic 7 processing. 

Left DIYMA for a bit, but after coming back, I can see the snobbish attitudes have taken over. Snobs in terms of " I spent more on my system than you, so I have ultimate SQ". I've seen the cost of systems here that cost more than the car itself. We have nobs that come here automaticly thinking they need (2) JL 500/5, an MS8 going to a Bit One,Hertz Subwoofers in the back, and 10 way all HAT drivers upfront in order to have a system of sound quality. I'm not jealous of these guys. Been there done that in my life, but, I know, many of these guys would be better served saving a dime for a rainy day. Times are harder now than it was when I had money to waste. Good paying career positions are harder to come by. 

The mission of this site has changed. It's as if this the the "SQ" version of CA.com now. Sadly, even those who do have a little knowledge,esp those who are young and have some type of engineering background, have a bit of a snobbish attitude here. 

At the end of the day, for the majority of the people here, this is a hobby. When the hobby turns into a spending habit that can't be controled, then it's no longer a hobby, but a problem. We all have different budgets, but, at the end of the day, IMO, the value of the equipment installed in the car shouldn't outprice a TV big enough for the living room. Because at the end of the day, it's still a damn car loosing value!


----------



## ReloadedSS

Dr.Telepathy SQ said:


> (a lot of wisdom from the good Doctor)


Too true. Times are tough, and look to be getting rougher. Personally, I'm looking for value and quality, which this unit seems to bring. I posted a thread about building a budget system, and a couple of members skewered me. 

For those who have the money and want as best as they can get, great. There's more pressing matters for me and a lot of others. The way i see it, I could be and have been quite happy with a budget system. I can get a pretty decent tv for $1500, probably as much as I would want, and could assemble a pleasing system for just as much. Heck, I've got a five year old plasma that I paid $1100 for which is still doing great.


----------



## Bayboy

Here's another aspect to consider: Consumer control of the market. As buyers of some of this "premium" gear, why do we tend to sell used products so close to it's retail?!. I understand that some retain a certain level of value, but when you look at some products, they are resold too close to their initial cost to where one would be better off buying new w/ warranty. What do you think that does for the manufacturer? Once upon a time it used to be that considerably second, third, etc hand electronics usually went for about half of it's original cost. I can see that for rare or discontinued products, but not for something that is still readily available brand new. This should hold especially true for amplifiers when caps can lose their strength over period of time and may need refurbishing.


----------



## duro78

Excellent post Dr. Sq. Well put

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## gmore

Sorry if I missed your point, but the higher the resell, the better it is for the mfg/retailer/original purchaser. When I was a pro audio dealer, once a current item fell below a certain used resell price, I stopped carrying it - too hard to compete with and justify to a new customer.

I think the resell on these 2 items will be strong for quite some time, which is why I didn't hesitate to put a new one on order


----------



## Bayboy

My perspective as a consumer is why would I want to pay for a used item a year or two old that is less than 20% of the cost compared to new with warranty? To me, that is shooting myself in the foot as well as furthering the initial retail price. I may very well be wrong in that train of thought. I'm a consumer so of course that view may be different from that of a retailer.

Has little to do with the resurrection of these types of head units, unless one was looking at purchasing an older model. I think that's a good thing for a consumer. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## gmore

I agree with your thinking, and that is good for the mfg/new consumer. If a comp 1-2yr old deck was selling for $50 used, it would be hard for Pioneer to justify bringing a $400 DEH-80PRS to market - I'm glad they are


----------



## Bayboy

Oops.... maybe I phrased that wrong. Just read back over what I posted, sorry. Say like the MS-8 for instance, used can go for well over $425, and yet you can obtain one BNIB at an authorized retailer for probably less than $530. I can't warrant spending that type of money without a warranty when brand new is less than a $100 offset. That's a major investment to go unprotected. Good piece of gear I'm sure, but resale is a bit odd.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Danometal

ReloadedSS said:


> Too true. Times are tough, and look to be getting rougher. Personally, I'm looking for value and quality, which this unit seems to bring. I posted a thread about building a budget system, and a couple of members skewered me.
> 
> For those who have the money and want as best as they can get, great. There's more pressing matters for me and a lot of others. The way i see it, I could be and have been quite happy with a budget system. I can get a pretty decent tv for $1500, probably as much as I would want, and could assemble a pleasing system for just as much. Heck, I've got a five year old plasma that I paid $1100 for which is still doing great.


You nailed it man. I love trying to get the best SQ I can with simplistic design goals. Who cares is better SQ can be had at 10X the price I paid?


----------



## duro78

*******Attention it is officially in STOCK********

Delete

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## atxtrd

It is easy to get caught up in the hype and quickly reach the point of diminishing returns, I've been guilty of this in the past. I try to subscribe to the K.I.S.S. motto, keep it simple stupid. I heard this somewhere- "Those who ride the coattails of new audio technology will often find themselves left in the dust...and broke".

A few years ago I went crazy building my HT system, bought a bunch of separates including a 5 channel amp rated at 250wpc and a processor to match. The stuff took up lots of space and the processor was buggy and soon obsolete due to a lack of HDMI capabilities. I finally got sick of it and simplified, got a Marantz reciever and I cannot say the sound has suffered a bit. We also used to build entire systems using Punch 45's and it seems that they played as loud and clear as anything on the market today.


----------



## WLDock

Dr.Telepathy SQ said:


> To charge over a grand for a P99, or close to a grand for a Bit One, to me, it's just too much mark up. Look at how TV technology has changed and how cheap an LCD TV can be. Look at our smartphones and the technology there and the price point. Who doesn't have a smartphone with at least a 1Ghz processor?


I agree the mark up is too high on the P99! I also don't agree with their Stage 4 price increase of the PRS speakers, etc, etc. I agree that the P99 should have a $600 MSRP, and the 80PRS should be $350 MSRP.

I can't help but think back to 1998 and the $800 MSRP of the DEX-P1R. So I accept the $419 MSRP but I still think that many car audio mark ups are too high for what you get. 

In comparison my phone (HTC Sensation 4G) is running a dual-core Snapdragon CPU, Adreno 220 GPU, 8MP camera + VGA front camera, 1080P video w/ stereo sound, 16GB storage, Hi Res 4.3" LCD, 4G, WiF, FM Radio, GPS, TV out, etc in a very smal form factor. MSRP was about $500 without a contract. I would guess the cost to make is about the same as the iphone 4...about $200. Of course I got it for free by resigning a contract but..... 

I wonder what the P99 and 80PRS cost to make?


----------



## duro78

Delete


----------



## Bayboy

Wow!!! So I'm not the only old one around here. Been a very long time since I've seen a full system ran by a small amp like the Punch 45. Now that was impressive!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## atxtrd

Bayboy said:


> Wow!!! So I'm not the only old one around here. Been a very long time since I've seen a full system ran by a small amp like the Punch 45. Now that was impressive!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


71 Camaro with a walled off back seat, 4 12's...and an eq under the dash.
No DSP's, no time alignment, no CD's. Could not kill those little amps.


----------



## Bayboy

I miss those days.....

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

Bayboy said:


> My perspective as a consumer is why would I want to pay for a used item a year or two old that is less than 20% of the cost compared to new with warranty? To me, that is shooting myself in the foot as well as furthering the initial retail price. I may very well be wrong in that train of thought. I'm a consumer so of course that view may be different from that of a retailer.
> 
> Has little to do with the resurrection of these types of head units, unless one was looking at purchasing an older model. I think that's a good thing for a consumer.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


You bring up a good and valid point. The classifieds are almost a joke now. Not long ago, prices in the classifieds were much cheaper overall. If I needed an item or when others needed an item, the first place to think of were the classified ads sections. I've found items now that are only a few dollars cheaper than buying new. What's the point? As a community, we use to look out for each other here and when another person came here trying to rape others in price, we use to take up for each other. Now, the site has vendors,etc,etc, and others feel they should cash in on the money making potential as well. 

Many items sold there now are higher end items and people feel that if they paid $$$$ they can get 80% of their money back selling it. I don't care how small a JL 500/5 may be, but I can't justify paying $600 for this amp used. A couple days ago I was helping a noob. He was dead set on having a JL 500/5, MS8, etc,etc..$2000 budget( which honestly can make a damn nice system), I suggested a couple of the Boston Amps that are on clerance sale or a sweet price I found on a Kenwood Excelon 5 channel. He basicly lifted up his nose at the thought of both amps. He went ahead and purchased the 500/5 used, no warranty. Both the Kenwood and Boston have 2 year warranties and would have saved over $ 350 going with the Kenwood or Bostons, along with having more power. I'm not doubting the JL is a nice amp, but damn, the MSRP is too damn much. 

Another point, over the past couple of weeks I've been trying to help a friend install a few goodies in his new-to-him car. He makes good money, but he has a set budget and this will be his commuter car. Since it's a Nissan that can fit a din or a double din, I've been looking around the classifieds for a Alpine 9887 or Pioneer 880. The prices I ran into were crazy for used. I found a few 880 with asking prices close to $300, when they could be had for $350 brand new a 3 years ago, and 9887's will asking prices above or around $250 used. At the end of the run for the 9887's, they could be had for $200-225 brand new! I told him we will just wait for the new Clarion and Pioneer units to drop at the end of the month. I can't justify paying more than $185 for either 9887 or 880 used. 


People think their high end stuff has magical SQ dust sprinkled on it right before it leaves the factory. That's why the asking prices are so high. I'm at the point in my life that if the music can clearly drown out my singing going down the freeway @ 75 mph and the bass is bumpin a little bit, I'm happy. Been there done that and I can say, after a while, this hobby can break you for small returns paying 10X as much. If $1500 in a system can't get er done, then what the hell are you trying to prove? Wait, let me buy high dollar stuff, take pics of it, post it on a forum where guys can jack off to the pics knowning they can't afford what I have!


----------



## pocket5s

WLDock said:


> I agree the mark up is too high on the P99! I also don't agree with their Stage 4 price increase of the PRS speakers, etc, etc. I agree that the P99 should have a $600 MSRP, and the 80PRS should be $350 MSRP.
> 
> I can't help but think back to 1998 and the $800 MSRP of the DEX-P1R. So I accept the $419 MSRP but I still think that many car audio mark ups are too high for what you get.
> 
> In comparison my phone (HTC Sensation 4G) is running a dual-core Snapdragon CPU, Adreno 220 GPU, 8MP camera + VGA front camera, 1080P video w/ stereo sound, 16GB storage, Hi Res 4.3" LCD, 4G, WiF, FM Radio, GPS, TV out, etc in a very smal form factor. MSRP was about $500 without a contract. I would guess the cost to make is about the same as the iphone 4...about $200. Of course I got it for free by resigning a contract but.....
> 
> I wonder what the P99 and 80PRS cost to make?


One thing to remember, and I believe this has been brought up earlier, is that the markup on most electronics is pretty slim. Your comparison is all hardware based, and hardware is almost always cheaper to source and manufacture than the software it takes to run it all. 

Then figure that Apple, Samsung, etc. are selling millions and millions of units, driving down the per unit cost significantly. I highly doubt any audio company sells 10's of thousands of a given HU let alone millions.

having said that, I personally won't pay more than a few hundred for a head unit, primarily because they tend to not do what I need them to in areas like crossovers and such. $350 for all the 80PRS is seems pretty decent. $200 for the Clarion seems like a steal. 

I almost didn't buy my current HU for $150 because I don't listen to the radio and don't listen to CD's anymore. It just happened to be the cheapest one that had a USB input for my iPhone  Since then I've become a member of this forum and now I want a few more bells and whistles; namely TA.


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

WLDock said:


> I agree the mark up is too high on the P99! I also don't agree with their Stage 4 price increase of the PRS speakers, etc, etc. I agree that the P99 should have a $600 MSRP, and the 80PRS should be $350 MSRP.
> 
> I can't help but think back to 1998 and the $800 MSRP of the DEX-P1R. So I accept the $419 MSRP but I still think that many car audio mark ups are too high for what you get.
> 
> In comparison my phone (HTC Sensation 4G) is running a dual-core Snapdragon CPU, Adreno 220 GPU, 8MP camera + VGA front camera, 1080P video w/ stereo sound, 16GB storage, Hi Res 4.3" LCD, 4G, WiF, FM Radio, GPS, TV out, etc in a very smal form factor. MSRP was about $500 without a contract. I would guess the cost to make is about the same as the iphone 4...about $200. Of course I got it for free by resigning a contract but.....
> 
> I wonder what the P99 and 80PRS cost to make?


I picked up a Droid Bionic over the holidays for $59 ( usually the $199 phone) @ Costco. Dual Core TI DPU, 4G,Wifi,free 32gb storage card, 1080p, and Ice Cream Sandwich promised by Motorola this year for it. Outfited like your Sensation. 
Just as you stated, look at the technology in [email protected] the given price. I'd say it's more cutting edge than the typical active headunit. 
Pioneer understands their is an SQ market, but they are making as much off of it as they can. I don't think stage 4 products will be around that long. The PRS comp set, underhung design and all was a beautiful set at a great price.


----------



## nismos14

Apples to apples guys. The carriers pay the manufacturers of the phones to be able to sell them.


----------



## Bayboy

Some very good points here that all relate to these new head units. The fact is that there is a big rave going on with not just what they offer, but the price they are doing it as well. I agree with the Pioneer being a tidbit too high, but not too far. The J&R preorder sale is what I would have thought it should be at the most considering the advancements that are of years past. Remember, these features are nothing new, they're just combining them in a head unit like before with a few extras (bluetooth & usb). The few extras are pretty much standard now that many head units tout, even lesser brands (Boss, Pyle, Jensen, etc). I've had a usb Pioneer in my dash for about 5 years or better now so that is relatively nothing. Still, this is nothing short of a granted wish! 

Hopefully, these units will wake other major players up to see that extreme high prices can be beat with less expensive units that don't negate quality enough to matter. Hopefully this will rollover to other parts of the chain besides just head units.

As for amps & speakers, well this is D.I.Y.M.A! Part of it stands for do-it-yourself, which is often not seen. Years before I joined, I used to read threads by members that are gone now I guess. Never seen the amount of high cost boutique brands mentioned like they are now. Most speakers consisted of raw drivers from Partsexpress, Madisound, Solen, etc. I still stick with that including closeout sales because that is where the real value stands that resonates with the original theme. If not, then what is the purpose?! Well I won't offend anyone, but I'm still the same as I was on another forum, and my objective has always been to beat the system (no pun intended) as best as I can using knowledge not money. 

Anyways, the units will soon ship and I hope everyone who is waiting will truly get all that they expect.


----------



## nepl29

It's funny to see how some of you guys try to justify being CHEAP. SMDH!


----------



## spl152db

nepl29 said:


> It's funny to see how some of you guys try to justify being CHEAP. SMDH!


hey! you're the exact person they're making fun of too. welcome to the party!


----------



## pocket5s

I can't help it  Other than my cheap head unit I very rarely buy stuff new cause I'm cheap... Also, I have other automotive interests that I spend money on that I can't buy stuff used and it costs a lot more than audio.


----------



## nepl29

spl152db said:


> hey! you're the exact person they're making fun of too. welcome to the party!


Thank YOU!!!


----------



## Bayboy

nepl29 said:


> It's funny to see how some of you guys try to justify being CHEAP. SMDH!


By whose standards?! Does that negate the effect of install techniques? Show me how many "car audio" brands offer driver data compared to raw driver. Wasn't it just recently that one of your famed companies was exposed for using a raw driver that could be obtained for far less?! Don't shake your head, shake your wallet at that! LOL

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Funny thing is you guys tlak about the price, but I think they are priced perfectly, I am betting you that these pre-order units are mostly sold out already. The other thing on top of that is that I don't recall any of you complaining about the higher priced CD7200 when it came out, this HU is priced appropriately for being brand new, in a few months I can expect it coming down into the mid two's for a bit before it's replaced.


----------



## Bayboy

Careful reading Nismos..... you are repeating what we said. These 2 units are priced good. It is mostly other gear offering far less that is a little wack. We are all proud that these units came along at this level.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## gmore

I'm about as cheap as they come (and proud of it), and based on my research - the DEH-80PRS looks like a deal. If there are HUs out there for the same price with more features or something less with the same, then I can see why it should be less, but I'm not finding them. Best as I can tell, the big names are getting out of the high-end world because its no longer profitable. I hope Pioneer and Clarion do well on these so similar/improved products continue to exist.


----------



## nepl29

pocket5s said:


> I can't help it  Other than my cheap head unit I very rarely buy stuff new cause I'm cheap... Also, I have other automotive interests that I spend money on that I can't buy stuff used and it costs a lot more than audio.


I can respect that. In my circle of friends I'm the only that's into car audio, which is not my only hobby. I have a friend that dropped over 100k in mods for his M6 and thinks I'm fool for spending a lot of money on my system. We all have different hobbies we spend/waste our money on. I'm not into home audio so I can't never justify spending 20k-50k but i respect whoever does that. Thats what youre into! 

Anyways my deck is on route, maybe my snob ass will post impressions. Its going in my daily driver(civic) and it's probably the best $300 I've spent in awhile.


----------



## duro78

nepl29 said:


> I can respect that. In my circle of friends I'm the only that's into car audio, which is not my only hobby. I have a friend that dropped over 100k in mods for his M6 and thinks I'm fool for spending a lot of money on my system. We all have different hobbies we spend/waste our money on. I'm not into home audio so I can't never justify spending 20k-50k but i respect whoever does that. Thats what youre into!
> 
> Anyways my deck is on route, maybe my snob ass will post impressions. Its going in my daily driver(civic) and it's probably the best $300 I've spent in awhile.


At least you can make most of your money back. That's exactly why I stopped dumping so much money into Modding my cars. It killed me that a product was worth top dollar on the shelf but had little to no value once it was in my possession. One of the things I love about car audio is I can use a product for a few months and then sell it for a loss of about 5%. We can try out a lot of products and we only have to add a few bucks here and there to pay for them, other than that they pay for themselves. Ask your m6 buddy how much he put into his car then ask him how does he think he can actually get for it. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

nepl29 said:


> I can respect that. In my circle of friends I'm the only that's into car audio, which is not my only hobby. I have a friend that dropped over 100k in mods for his M6 and thinks I'm fool for spending a lot of money on my system. We all have different hobbies we spend/waste our money on. I'm not into home audio so I can't never justify spending 20k-50k but i respect whoever does that. Thats what youre into!
> 
> Anyways my deck is on route, maybe my snob ass will post impressions. Its going in my daily driver(civic) and it's probably the best $300 I've spent in awhile.


Your 80prs shipped? Where'd ya order it from?


----------



## hornedfrog2000

I talked to pacific stereo and they said they might have them in stock by tomorrow. Maybe they just had them sent directly to the customers from the manufacturer? The only reason I called is the site says in stock.


----------



## (s)AINT

Please tell me you ordered from J&R and that it's on route


----------



## nismos14

Pioneer will not drop ship. They will go to the warehouses first. I'm 99% sure that they won't. If someone knows otherwise please correct me.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

nismos14 said:


> Pioneer will not drop ship. They will go to the warehouses first. I'm 99% sure that they won't. If someone knows otherwise please correct me.


Would the warehouse send to the clients though? I wouldn't think so, but who knows? That would be a lot more work for the warehouse you would think.


----------



## duro78

hornedfrog2000 said:


> I talked to pacific stereo and they said they might have them in stock by tomorrow. Maybe they just had them sent directly to the customers from the manufacturer? The only reason I called is the site says in stock.


I talked to that guy today also. It seems you'll get a different answer depending on who you talk to too. The fact of the matter is no one knows till they show up. The best answer I got was anyday now. Ive been in contact with crazystereo and today they told me they we're in stock so I placed an order. Something told me to double check and thats when another guy there told me 5- 8 days. I called to cancel and the owner tried everything to get me not to. $20 off the $349 price and he said if it wasn't in by Friday he would give it to me for $300. IMO the only reason I would of bought it from them was if they actually had it before everyone else. Authorized and non authorized have the same pricing so it didn't make much sense ordering from them anyway. But Like I said no one knows till it shows up.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Yea!

Now I will continue to patiently wait for mine, have had mine ordered for a month now.


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

I placed an order for the Clarion and the Pioneer. I have a friend who works for Pioneer in CA, but he couldn't come up with anything about the the delivery date for the Pioneer unit. 

Heck yea I value my dollars! I grew up poor. No, scratch that, I grew up Po'. So poor the roaches give us the middle finger, leave our house and go next door looking for food. 
I couldn't read until I went off to the air force. I'm the first person in my family who could spell college, let alone graduate with a ph.d.

I tell my students that they need to make their money work for them, but, it's going to take a lot of self discipline. There is nothing sexy about paying a 30 year note on a $300,000 home, driving high dollar cars, and high dollar toys. There is a difference between really being able to afford those items and not really making it, but painting images. Anyone who works should be able to treat themselves every once and a while, but, have a plan and stick to it. An extra 5K can go a long way. The dollar just doesn't go as far as it once did and inflation is real. At some point, you're going to want to retire and live a decent life. It can be done. I'm sitting my ass down at some point before 62. 

Speaking of that, had some kid on campus try to talk sh*t to me, driving an M3, rims, system, etc......25 years old, living with mamma, and in danger of getting kicked out of college at the end of the semester if his grades don't go up. Prof told him he needs a tutor, his reply was, " he couldn't afford a tutor". I told him to sell is rims and Car Toys overpriced system. He called me every name in the book. If I didn't have a nice shirt on today, I would have taken him outside and kicked his ass like we use to back in the day.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

Hi everyone, we've... | Facebook

^^^^ That looks promising.





"Pioneer Electronics (North America) · 18,218 like this
March 16 at 7:26pm · .Hi everyone, we've had a busy few weeks running our "March shipment" car electronics products through the final stages of QC (Quality Control) here in the U.S. prior to releasing them to our retailers.

Here's a quick update on the status of the following models (*shipping status from our warehouses to our retailers - please be aware that it may take a few days for retailers to get the shipments on their shelves after they receive*):

AVIC-X940BT: Shipped. Should be arriving to retailers now.
AVIC-Z140BH: Shipped, but a few days behind the AVIC-X940BT. Should be arriving to retailers early/mid next week.
*DEH-80PRS: Shipping early next week*.
AVH-P8400BH: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update next week.
AppRadio2: Currently in final QC. Anticipated update late next week.

Thanks and have a great weekend!"




I bet some of you get it by Friday maybe. Hopefully everyone gets them by the end of next week


----------



## duro78

Wonder if there's just gonna be enough to cover pre-orders and a few lucky people with good timing. Then they'll probably be back ordered for a few weeks.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nepl29

duro78 said:


> At least you can make most of your money back. That's exactly why I stopped dumping so much money into Modding my cars. It killed me that a product was worth top dollar on the shelf but had little to no value once it was in my possession. One of the things I love about car audio is I can use a product for a few months and then sell it for a loss of about 5%. We can try out a lot of products and we only have to add a few bucks here and there to pay for them, other than that they pay for themselves. Ask your m6 buddy how much he put into his car then ask him how does he think he can actually get for it.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Exactly. I dont have to ask my buddy, i can tell you from experience. Ive spend over 15k in mods(mody kit, wheels, retrofits) for my car and i can tell you that once i sell my car i wont get 20% of what i spent. seen it happen to plenty of my friends. I know guys that spend 8k on rims and after using them for 3-6 months struggle to get 3k. 
I recently sold my old set up(3 Tru Stage IV amps)and pretty much got back everything that i put into. I think i lost like $200. 




nismos14 said:


> Your 80prs shipped? Where'd ya order it from?


Order from my friend, he owns a shop. According to him it was shipping today but ill check with him tomorrow morning.


----------



## nismos14

Nice, you may have it before any of us, put it through the paces if you can. I'll have mine up on the power supply fairly quickly after I receive it.


----------



## Bayboy

duro78 said:


> Wonder if there's just gonna be enough to cover pre-orders and a few lucky people with good timing. Then they'll probably be back ordered for a few weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


That's what might have taken so long to ship. As promising as the unit is, I would think plenty were made. Then again who knows. The PPI 900.4 seemed to sell-off pretty fast where it was discounted.

EDIT: Guess I was wrong about fitment comparing it to the 9400BH. Crutchfield shows it fits using a their 1" extension kit, but the 9400BH doesn't? Strange....

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

Just wanted to let you guys know, who havnt pre ordered from somewhere else. Pacificstereo.com got there shipment in yesterday, and they are in stock and ready to ship. I called to verify. Just ordered mine and should be here monday! Cant wait.

Search results for: '80PRS'


----------



## nismos14

Oh yeah!!


----------



## duro78

rodneypierce said:


> Just wanted to let you guys know, who havnt pre ordered from somewhere else. Pacificstereo.com got there shipment in yesterday, and they are in stock and ready to ship. I called to verify. Just ordered mine and should be here monday! Cant wait.
> 
> Search results for: '80PRS'


Who did you talk to because I just called them and he said they're not in stock. I called yesterday also with the same response. He said no one has them yet. Ive been hunting all week and I'm doubting anyone will get them in before anyone else.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

Ah crap, I dont recall the name. I sent them an email, then asked on chat, then called. I dont recall who i got on the phone. All 3 told me they got them in yesterday and they were ready to ship.


----------



## (s)AINT

Now debating on canceling my order at J&R if this is true

It does say in stock on their website


----------



## rodneypierce

(s)AINT said:


> Now debating on canceling my order at J&R if this is true
> 
> It does say in stock on their website


I wouldnt cancel anything until you can verify it. I got the "in stock" with all 3 (email, chat, and call) but the fella above got they ARE NOT in stock when he called. So who actually knows. I guess I will watch and see what my order status is on the site. If it ships tomorrow with a valid tracking number, I would imagine they have them in stock. If it stays at processing tomorrow and friday, I would assume they dont have them yet.


----------



## duro78

By all means I hope it did but I spoke to two different guys and got the same response. Crazy stereo did something similar to me, I got phone verification placed order online decided to double check and that's when I got the right info. Did you get shipping info? Id call and verify I wouldn't want you to be disappointed like I was. Like you I got all excited and started a thread too, had to delete it quick lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

duro78 said:


> By all means I hope it did but I spoke to two different guys and got the same response. Crazy stereo did something similar to me, I got phone verification placed order online decided to double check and that's when I got the right info. Did you get shipping info? Id call and verify I wouldn't want you to be disappointed like I was. Like you I got all excited and started a thread too, had to delete it quick lol
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I just ordered it tonight, about an hour ago. So i will watch for shipping info tomorrow.


----------



## duro78

rodneypierce said:


> I wouldnt cancel anything until you can verify it. I got the "in stock" with all 3 (email, chat, and call) but the fella above got they ARE NOT in stock when he called. So who actually knows. I guess I will watch and see what my order status is on the site. If it ships tomorrow with a valid tracking number, I would imagine they have them in stock. If it stays at processing tomorrow and friday, I would assume they dont have them yet.


Honestly If it didn't actually ship I would cancel the order. Everyone is selling them for $350 non and authorized. Since they're the same price Id rather have manufacturer support. I was in your boat and once I called for a refund the owner offered a $20 discount so he wouldnt have to give a refund but to me it made more sense goin authorized. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Would that mean J&R isn't authorized? Never thought about it when I placed an order that was later cancelled, but after looking at this list I was kind of shocked:


http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...r+Car+Audio+Video+Authorized+Internet+Dealers


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Would that mean J&R isn't authorized? Never thought about it when I placed an order that was later cancelled, but after looking at this list I was kind of shocked:
> 
> 
> http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...r+Car+Audio+Video+Authorized+Internet+Dealers


I thought they would be but they're not. Guys that are ordering it at the $350 price, it really doesn't make sense to buy it unauthorized. Might as well get manufacturer backing since your paying the same price. If I was gonna buy unauthorized the unit would have to be at least $300. In this case there's no reward for being the prices are all the same.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

Not sure if I missed it, but how does this 80PRS compare to the Eclipse CD7000?
The CD7000 has 7 bands and 80PRS has 16 bands, other then this, what are the pro's and con's of both? Thanks


----------



## Bayboy

Even at $300 I would want full backing. At this point it seems Crutchfield is the best option due to customer service and free install accessories. Ordered a DDC from them that I had a very slight discrepancy with. They immediately sent another and paid return shipping on the original. Can't beat that!


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Even at $300 I would want full backing. At this point it seems Crutchfield is the best option due to customer service and free install accessories. Ordered a DDC from them that I had a very slight discrepancy with. They immediately sent another and paid return shipping on the original. Can't beat that!


Your absolutely right ending up with a $300 paper weight because of $50 doesn't make much sense. Luckily I've always bought unauthorized without any failures. This time ill be sticking with crutchfeild. I bet most guys that pre-ordered don't realize places like Jr aren't authorized. With a head unit piece of mind is worth the few extra bucks but since there all the same price its a no brainer.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

adrenalinejunkie said:


> Not sure if I missed it, but how does this 80PRS compare to the Eclipse CD7000?
> The CD7000 has 7 bands and 80PRS has 16 bands, other then this, what are the pro's and con's of both? Thanks


Small comparison - 

*Pioneer* - BT built in, dual usb, 16 band eq, L/R eq, L/R xover, L/R slope, L/R phase, Pandora, App's, etc. No XM/Sat

*Eclipse* - No BT, single USB, 7 band PEQ, no L/R separation for eq/xover/slope/phase, XM/Sat radio


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

nismos14 said:


> Small comparison -
> 
> *Pioneer* - BT built in, dual usb, 16 band eq, L/R eq, L/R xover, L/R slope, L/R phase, Pandora, App's, etc. No XM/Sat
> 
> *Eclipse* - No BT, single USB, 7 band PEQ, no L/R separation for eq/xover/slope/phase, XM/Sat radio



It seems like the 80PRS is by far a better unit. Will the loss of PEQ be a big disadvantage? I recently got my Eclipse CD7000 and like the features of the 80PRS, but just want to make sure that the upgrade is well worth it and it seems to be...
Didn't you have a Eclipse CD7000? Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## nismos14

I don't think so personally.


----------



## rodneypierce

I currently have/had a Eclipse CD7200MKII and am going to this unit. I cant say it will be any better or any worse, but have always wanted to try a 800/880 series, but this has the added BT and USB, so its a win win.

I cant wait to get mine and mess around with it. Im hoping I wont be disappointed. I dont think I will


----------



## nismos14

rodneypierce said:


> I currently have/had a Eclipse CD7200MKII and am going to this unit. I cant say it will be any better or any worse, but have always wanted to try a 800/880 series, but this has the added BT and USB, so its a win win.
> 
> I cant wait to get mine and mess around with it. Im hoping I wont be disappointed. I dont think I will


I definitely don't think you will be disappointed.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> I definitely don't think you will be disappointed.


And If I am, you know who gets the blame.......


----------



## dietDrThunder

Just took the plunge and ordered it from Crutchfield...I'm very excited to have TA and stereo EQ for the first time. Wahoo!


----------



## pyfocal

ABT just sent me an email saying mine will ship early next week-I preordered in February.


----------



## nismos14

Sweet deal!


----------



## rodneypierce

Alright, here is an email I just got back from Pacificstereo.com. There answer is in blue, my question is below. We will see if my status changes to shipped. As of now, it still says processing.


*
We do have them in stock. I am the product manager and our company is quit large were not everyone knows just yet of the new info. They just came into our warehouse 2 days ago and were being inventoried. Most orders will be shipping out today. *




On 3/22/2012 7:36 AM, LiveChat wrote:
Your name: Rodney Pierce
E-mail: rod*****@hotmail.com

Message:
Just curious what date you guys got the Pioneer DEH-80PRS in stock? I asked yesterday and was told they were ready to ship. A couple buddies called in and were told you did not have them in stock. I would like to know which is true, as I only ordered because I was told you had them in stock


----------



## duro78

rodneypierce said:


> Alright, here is an email I just got back from Pacificstereo.com. There answer is in blue, my question is below. We will see if my status changes to shipped. As of now, it still says processing.
> 
> 
> *
> We do have them in stock. I am the product manager and our company is quit large were not everyone knows just yet of the new info. They just came into our warehouse 2 days ago and were being inventoried. Most orders will be shipping out today. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 3/22/2012 7:36 AM, LiveChat wrote:
> Your name: Rodney Pierce
> E-mail: rod*****@hotmail.com
> 
> Message:
> Just curious what date you guys got the Pioneer DEH-80PRS in stock? I asked yesterday and was told they were ready to ship. A couple buddies called in and were told you did not have them in stock. I would like to know which is true, as I only ordered because I was told you had them in stock


I called and they did confirm what you said. The thing is they can't ship them out until tomorrow or maybe Monday. I think that's because of pioneer. We should have them in our hands by end of next week.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

duro78 said:


> I called and they did confirm what you said. The thing is they can't ship them out until tomorrow or maybe Monday. I think that's because of pioneer. We should have them in our hands by end of next week.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


YEAH BUDDY!!! Im giddy like a kid in a candy store.


----------



## duro78

rodneypierce said:


> YEAH BUDDY!!! Im giddy like a kid in a candy store.


Lmao the time has come, now we just gotta wait for shipping lol.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

Pacific told me they would ship it via 2nd day air, so I should see it by middle of next week Im hoping depending on when the shipments actually leave there place. Ill keep everyone posted.


----------



## duro78

Oh f it then I'm gonna place my order right now then lol. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

duro78 said:


> Oh f it then I'm gonna place my order right now then lol.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk



LOL, its just hype brother until I get a tracking number. Plus, remember, they arent an authorized dealer


----------



## pongagt

I ordered one from Pacific as well. I'll probably buy a square trade extended warranty for it on a 30% off Tuesday.


----------



## Danometal

Dang it. I've only had my CDA-117 for about 8 months. There's no way my wife would ever let me hear the end of it if I dropped another $350.


----------



## rodneypierce

Danometal said:


> Dang it. I've only had my CDA-117 for about 8 months. There's no way my wife would ever let me hear the end of it if I dropped another $350.


Sell the CDA-117 to recoupe some of the money. I had to sell my CD7200MKII for the price of this unit, or it wasnt happening for me either. I was just lucky enough to find a guy who was looking for one. Bless his soul!


----------



## subwoofery

Danometal said:


> Dang it. I've only had my CDA-117 for about 8 months. There's no way my wife would ever let me hear the end of it if I dropped another $350.


Just keep your $350 for now and buy a full-on processor (when money's right) if all you need is just L/R EQ adjustments... 

My 0.02cents, 
Kelvin


----------



## Danometal

rodneypierce said:


> Sell the CDA-117 to recoupe some of the money. I had to sell my CD7200MKII for the price of this unit, or it wasnt happening for me either. I was just lucky enough to find a guy who was looking for one. Bless his soul!


I guess I can consider that. The CDA-117s don't get very good reviews for some reason, so that may affect price. I love mine, especially for how good it makes an iPod sound, but I don't love it's lack of Xover ability...


----------



## Danometal

subwoofery said:


> Just keep your $350 for now and buy a full-on processor (when money's right) if all you need is just L/R EQ adjustments...
> 
> My 0.02cents,
> Kelvin


What's a good processor that doesn't depend on auto tuning? (I want to manually tweek everything) I'm mostly interested in active Xovers with options for slopes, and of course L/R EQ would be sweet too.


----------



## darrenforeal

I called JR and they said they don't have them and Pioneer hasn't released them. They also said they have no eta on when they will get them and when they will ship them to us


----------



## subwoofery

Danometal said:


> What's a good processor that doesn't depend on auto tuning? (I want to manually tweek everything) I'm mostly interested in active Xovers with options for slopes, and of course L/R EQ would be sweet too.


Since you have T/A available, you can go with something like a DQS or a DQXS (for more Xover options). 
Regarding full-on processors, the best bang for the buck is still the Mini-DSP or a used PPI DCX-730 (1 band down per channel to the DSP6 from Zapco). 

If you don't plan to buy now, 2012 seems like the year of the processor. If I remember right, the new Zapco DSP-Z8 will have a MAP of $429 when it comes out. 
Some processors are not out yet but when they do, you'll see quite a few BitOne, BitTen, Zapco DSP6, H701 being sold in the classifieds... 

Kelvin


----------



## rodneypierce

darrenforeal said:


> I called JR and they said they don't have them and Pioneer hasn't released them. They also said they have no eta on when they will get them and when they will ship them to us


If thats the case, they are shipping me a box of air then. Because I just got my tracking number.


----------



## nervewrecker

so where you guys ordered from?

I placed my order here: Electronics and Appliance Stores | Abt

hope everything goes well.


----------



## rodneypierce

I ordered from www.pacificstereo.com

Just sent me another email letting me know it should show up early next week. Guess thats probably because I have been a pain in the ass to them since yesterday trying to figure out if they actually had them or not


----------



## nervewrecker

are they authorized distributors for pioneer?


----------



## darrenforeal

rodneypierce said:


> If thats the case, they are shipping me a box of air then. Because I just got my tracking number.


I am talking about JR not pac stereo. I hate how ever one seems to be on a different page. annoying


----------



## IBcivic

rodneypierce said:


> If thats the case, they are shipping me a box of air then. Because I just got my tracking number.


With a commercial fedex/ups account, a tracking number can be generated, w/o the actual product going anywhere.

I bought an amp off E-Pay on december 25th and an automated tracking# was sent 3 minutes later and a statement that the amp had been shipped....


----------



## rodneypierce

darrenforeal said:


> I am talking about JR not pac stereo. I hate how ever one seems to be on a different page. annoying


really? I figured we were on the same page considering you posted this as well:



> I called JR and they said they don't have them and Pioneer hasn't released them. They also said they have no eta on when they will get them and when they will ship them to us


"Pioneer hasnt released them"

You can see how one can become easily confused..


----------



## rodneypierce

IBcivic said:


> With a commercial fedex/ups account, a tracking number can be generated, w/o the actual product going anywhere.
> 
> I bought an amp off E-Pay on december 25th and an automated tracking# was sent 3 minutes later and a statement that the amp had been shipped....



took a day and a half to get the number. We will see if its updated tomorrow with progress...


----------



## duro78

I just got a tracking # from pacific stereo woo woo

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

nervewrecker said:


> are they authorized distributors for pioneer?


no, they are not. If you look at the list on pioneer's site of authorized distributors, its kind of surprising how few are.


----------



## nervewrecker

When I ordered only a few of those authorized places even had it. I have my fingers crossed & hoping it gets here safe & sound without any problems.


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

Well, just wanted to let everyone know who was also intrested in the Clarion CZ702 that they will not be released until the 2nd quarter of the year, which could mean anywhere between April and June. One of my good buds filled me in after he spoke with Clarion. 

If you're in need of a headunit right now, the Pioneer would serve to fill a void, as they are being shipped out within the next week or so.


----------



## darrenforeal

rodneypierce said:


> really? I figured we were on the same page considering you posted this as well:
> 
> 
> 
> "Pioneer hasnt released them"
> 
> You can see how one can become easily confused..


I didn't mean you and I on the same page. I mean Pioneer and all the distributors. Including employees in the stores. J&R still says they have no idea when they will get them. I just meant, every store and even different employees within the same store are saying different things. Good thing you ordered from Pacific Stereo though.


----------



## rodneypierce

darrenforeal said:


> I didn't mean you and I on the same page. I mean Pioneer and all the distributors. Including employees in the stores. J&R still says they have no idea when they will get them. I just meant, every store and even different employees within the same store are saying different things. Good thing you ordered from Pacific Stereo though.


I got yah bro. My bad. Well, who knows. It could just a tracking number for when they do actually ship them out. But I should know more tomorrow. Since it usually takes about 24 hours or there bouts for UPS to get it in there system. We shall see tomorrow.

Im hopeful though. As soon as it arrives, I have to yank the CD7200MKII and install the 80PRS. I already have the CD7200 sold, and the guy was nice enough to let me keep it until the 80PRS got here so I wasnt without tunes.


----------



## Sadus

Anyone know if the unit will come with the tuning microphone or if that has to be purchased separately? Tempted to go ahead and order one if I must get it separately while waiting on J&R. Or I have a Behringer ECM8000 for indoor tuning but I guess this thing probably doesn't have xlr inputs and phantom power ;-)

Also for anyone familiar with past Pioneer auto-tuning setups that could speculate on how this little fellow is going to behave... Can you pick if you want it to auto-tune flat, or specify the target curve at all? Or does it just auto-tune to the same mystery curve each time, and then you adjust it afterwards?


----------



## nismos14

Comes with the mic.


----------



## duro78

The mc20 (mic) has to be purchased separately 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> Comes with the mic.


It doesn't come with it, has to be purchased.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## hornedfrog2000

You have to buy the mic. It's like $20 on amazon I think.


----------



## rodneypierce

hornedfrog2000 said:


> You have to buy the mic. It's like $20 on amazon I think.


are you guys sure? Im pretty sure I read somewhere that the mic was included when looking on Pioneer's site yesterday.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

New member here, first post...lol Gotta say, I've really been enjoying this thread....been reading since the beginning and decided to join since everyone seems pretty mature and helpful....This thread is what pushed me over the edge to order this HU. 

I've been rockin' some POS Xtrons unit from Japan with all the bells and whistles DVD, 7" display, BT streaming, GPS, ATSC Tuner ect ect...it does everything ok, but nothing really well...my Alpine CVA-1006 (stolen last year) of 10 years ago did a better job of multitasking that this thing and there's really no tuning capability other than the choice of "Rock" "Pop" "Jazz" blah blah presets with just bass and treble adjustment. 

So my local "Authorized" stereo shop here in MS turned me onto the 2012 Pioneer catalog last month and said this is the HU to have right now and shortly after ordered one for me. They say they're expecting them in tomorrow (Fri) so I'm really excited. 
My system is so old I've just decided to do a total overhaul which started with my sub, then amp, and now HU. 

So my new setup is the 80PRS, JLA HD900/5 JLA 12W7AE H.O. and stock interior components for now, but looking at getting some JLA C5 6.5s for the front and JLA C5 5x7s for the back and I should be done.

I don't know much about Auto EQ, slopes, or Time alignment, you all sound much more knowledgeable than me about all of it, but I really just wanted to go to a simple HU with good adjustability and great sound...

I've been installing stereo equipment since I was a teenager, mostly amps and subs...I'm a bass head so never really delved into the SQ side of sound so I'm looking forward to learning more here. Nice to meet you all! Cheers


----------



## duro78

I don't know how good the 80 will be at auto eq. I've used that mic with two other pioneer units and it was a waste of $20. Then again the ability to process is unit dependent.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

What's the point of the iPod cable ui50 having a 3.5 connection. Its on the USB side of the cable that plugs into the rear of the HU. The other end of the cable only has the iPod connector so its not like it can be used with a phone. I had the same cable for my avh4300 and the 3.5 was for video transfer from the iPod. I can't see the point of using this particular cable but that's what pioneer states.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

rodneypierce said:


> are you guys sure? Im pretty sure I read somewhere that the mic was included when looking on Pioneer's site yesterday.


The only head unit the mic comes with is the 99 butfor that much coin they better not cheap out on $20. The mic was never supplied in the prs series. Check the specs it says its capable then shows the product # of the mic to be purchased separately. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

Both 880 and 800 came with the tuning mic. So did the 860mp.


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> Both 880 and 800 came with the tuning mic. So did the 860mp.


I stand corrected, I remember hearing they didn't in a review. I know on Crutchfields site it says it comes separate for 80.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

It's highly possible that in an effort to bring the price down on this unit they made the mic a seperate option.


----------



## duro78

Yeah I just checked to make sure, its separate. Like you mentioned for the price we cant expect everyhting. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Danometal

LOWFLYER777 said:


> New member here, first post...lol Gotta say, I've really been enjoying this thread....been reading since the beginning and decided to join since everyone seems pretty mature and helpful....This thread is what pushed me over the edge to order this HU.
> I've been rockin' some POS Xtrons unit from Japan with all the bells and whistles DVD, 7" display, BT streaming, GPS, ATSC Tuner ect ect...it does everything ok, but nothing really well...my Alpine CVA-1006 (stolen last year) of 10 years ago did a better job of multitasking that this thing and there's really no tuning capability other than the choice of "Rock" "Pop" "Jazz" blah blah presets with just bass and treble adjustment.
> So my local "Authorized" stereo shop here in MS turned me onto the 2012 Pioneer catalog last month and said this is the HU to have right now and shortly after ordered one for me. They say they're expecting them in tomorrow (Fri) so I'm really excited.
> My system is so old I've just decided to do a total overhaul which started with my sub, then amp, and now HU.
> So my new setup is the 80PRS, JLA HD900/5 JLA 12W7AE H.O. and stock interior components for now, but looking at getting some JLA C5 6.5s for the front and JLA C5 5x7s for the back and I should be done.
> I don't know much about Auto EQ, slopes, or Time alignment, you all sound much more knowledgeable than me about all of it, but I really just wanted to go to a simple HU with good adjustability and great sound...
> I've been installing stereo equipment since I was a teenager, mostly amps and subs...I'm a bass head so never really delved into the SQ side of sound so I'm looking forward to learning more here. Nice to meet you all! Cheers


Welcome to the forum Bro. Looks like you got one heck of a start on a nice setup. I have my factory components amped right now too until I get around to installing my Polk DBs. Those C5s get excellent reviews on par with HAT Imagines I've read, but the C5s have actual Xovers vs. caps on the tweeters with the Imagines.

Edit: The Xovers don't matter though with the obvious likelihood that you're going full active with the (coveted by me) 80PRS.


----------



## rodneypierce

duro78 said:


> What's the point of the iPod cable ui50 having a 3.5 connection. Its on the USB side of the cable that plugs into the rear of the HU. The other end of the cable only has the iPod connector so its not like it can be used with a phone. I had the same cable for my avh4300 and the 3.5 was for video transfer from the iPod. I can't see the point of using this particular cable but that's what pioneer states.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


pioneer says to use the CD-IU51 cable on there site. Its listed under the accesories for this HU.

And they dont even list the mic as an option on there site.


----------



## gmore

The mics included. 'Fix the supplied micorphone in the center of the headrest' stated in manual. If it wasn't, there would be 'with the optional XXX mic' noted everywhere.


----------



## rodneypierce

Thats where I seen it. In the manual. Thanks man. I had been searching. LOL


----------



## nervewrecker

Bottom of page:



> OTHER FEATURES
> 
> Full Dot LCD Display (192 x 48 pixels, 3-line)
> Built-In MOSFET 50W x 4 Amplifier
> 3 Sets of Hi-Volt RCA Preouts (5V) for System Expansion
> Dual 16-Band Graphic Equalizer
> *Auto EQ (CD-MC20 required)*
> Advanced Sound Retriever
> SD/SDHC Memory Card Slot
> Wired Remote Input
> Included Remote Control
> Anti-Dust Design
> Flap Face
> Detachable Face Security™


DEH-80PRS - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA

*shrugs shoulders*


----------



## rodneypierce

haha, I guess we will just have to see what shows up in the box eh?


----------



## Danometal

It could be saying the "supplied" mic is "required" to use the auto EQ.


----------



## nervewrecker

but underneath with respect to the remote control, it clearly says *included*


----------



## gmore

'USB Direct control for Ipod' states 'CD-IU51 interface cable sold separately' and lists it as an accessory. Just sold my P860 which included the mic, stated 'supplied' just like the 80 manual does. Been years, but if I recall, some people thought they could get a better reading with a 'better' mic so maybe thats why it states the model.

Pioneer has always been good about including accessories and horrible about listing whats included in the manuals. Can't be 100% certain, but I'd be shocked/pissed if it wasn't included.


----------



## duro78

Sorry I Meant the 51. It still has the 3.5 plug which serves no purpose since its only on the USB side of the cable not the iPod side. Its only for video which the 80 doesn't support. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## LOWFLYER777

Danometal said:


> Welcome to the forum Bro. Looks like you got one heck of a start on a nice setup. I have my factory components amped right now too until I get around to installing my Polk DBs. Those C5s get excellent reviews on par with HAT Imagines I've read, but the C5s have actual Xovers vs. caps on the tweeters with the Imagines.
> 
> Edit: The Xovers don't matter though with the obvious likelihood that you're going full active with the (coveted by me) 80PRS.


Ty for the welcome!....Now, see that's why I came here...going full active?? I'm not sure what that means...I've never had a component set before and have just amped my stockers which was good enough for me...still rockin the old gray PPI slab amps lol....Since I'm still SQ challenged at this point, I like the idea of being able to set it (auto eq) and forget it...I've read though in this thread that many will be doing major adjusting...So I don't need the supplied crossover with the components if I'm using this HU?? And if the big deal with this HU is the Auto EQ and timing alignment, why mess with it??


----------



## Danometal

LOWFLYER777 said:


> Ty for the welcome!....Now, see that's why I came here...going full active?? I'm not sure what that means...I've never had a component set before and have just amped my stockers which was good enough for me...still rockin the old gray PPI slab amps lol....Since I'm still SQ challenged at this point, I like the idea of being able to set it (auto eq) and forget it...I've read though in this thread that many will be doing major adjusting...So I don't need the supplied crossover with the components if I'm using this HU?? And if the big deal with this HU is the Auto EQ and timing alignment, why mess with it??


Well, if you're the slightest bit bassheaded like me, an auto EQ may try to flatten your bass and your treble. Maybe not though, but I would do it manually anyway. I like my bass. And, I bet you do too with a W7.

And, yes, with this HU, you can indeed go fully active, which essentially means an electronic device before the amplification stage decides your crossover points and slopes like 6, 12, 18, 24 or even 36 dbs per octave in some units. Active requires a channel of amplification for each speaker in the system, like 2 channels for the mids, and 2 more channels for the tweeters. Passive crossovers are fixed wherever they're at, usually 12 dbs per octave, and at a particular frequency. Active gives you all the control over that to your personal preference, and you can simply adjust the gains on the amp channels running your tweeters to boost or tame the treble (or vice versa with the amp channels powering the midbasses). Not so with passives, but sometimes passives have a -3 db, 0 db, and +3db switch or wiring option, which is better than nothing, but a far cry from the type of control active gives you.

Lastly, passives eat power, as they kinda act like a big resistor to some extent as they separate the frequencies. Running active allows 100% of the power to reach each speaker (even though speakers themselves are inefficient devices, but I digress). Passives do have benefits though. You don't need 2 extra amp channels to power the tweeters, and they help eliminate noise to some extent. And, of course, they're plug and play in their simple implementation. 

The negatives of active besides needing extra amp channels is the extra tuning required, and the pain in the ass it would be if all your settings get reset from the battery getting disconnected or something, that is, if the 80PRS lacks memory back up. In that context, many people solder caps on their tweeters just in case the Xovers get reset or turned off or whatever so the tweeters don't commit suicide with low frequencies.

All that to say... Go active with the 80PRS. I'm jealous. I have to run passive unless I buy an electronic crossover or something. But, it's OK to run passive too...


----------



## (s)AINT

LOWFLYER777 said:


> New member here, first post...lol Gotta say, I've really been enjoying this thread....been reading since the beginning and decided to join since everyone seems pretty mature and helpful....This thread is what pushed me over the edge to order this HU.
> I've been rockin' some POS Xtrons unit from Japan with all the bells and whistles DVD, 7" display, BT streaming, GPS, ATSC Tuner ect ect...it does everything ok, but nothing really well...my Alpine CVA-1006 (stolen last year) of 10 years ago did a better job of multitasking that this thing and there's really no tuning capability other than the choice of "Rock" "Pop" "Jazz" blah blah presets with just bass and treble adjustment.
> So my local "Authorized" stereo shop here in MS turned me onto the 2012 Pioneer catalog last month and said this is the HU to have right now and shortly after ordered one for me. They say they're expecting them in tomorrow (Fri) so I'm really excited.
> My system is so old I've just decided to do a total overhaul which started with my sub, then amp, and now HU.
> So my new setup is the 80PRS, JLA HD900/5 JLA 12W7AE H.O. and stock interior components for now, but looking at getting some JLA C5 6.5s for the front and JLA C5 5x7s for the back and I should be done.
> I don't know much about Auto EQ, slopes, or Time alignment, you all sound much more knowledgeable than me about all of it, but I really just wanted to go to a simple HU with good adjustability and great sound...
> I've been installing stereo equipment since I was a teenager, mostly amps and subs...I'm a bass head so never really delved into the SQ side of sound so I'm looking forward to learning more here. Nice to meet you all! Cheers


been running the C5 5x7s for a while on the 600/4 HD, just recently added a 13W7 running a 750/1 HD. I guess running all JL makes me inferior on this forum according to the threads i read 

C5s are legit. You won't regret buying them.


----------



## Mic10is

(s)AINT said:


> been running the C5 5x7s for a while on the 600/4 HD, just recently added a 13W7 running a 750/1 HD. I guess running all JL makes me inferior on this forum according to the threads i read
> 
> *C5s are legit. You won't regret buying them*.


for Real


----------



## LOWFLYER777

Thanks for the feedback DANOMETAL and sAINT...Gonna definitely read the manual and look into going active with it! As far as being inferior for running JLA, it's all preference. I like JL b/c they're in Florida and their testing and development are all done here in the good ole USofA...some of their stuff is made here too so I wanna support them. 

I've been running JLA for years and they've been a relatively affordable, reliable, good sounding source for the thump in my trunk. To each their own, the setup I'm moving away from is a no name HU (formerly a Alpine), PPI slab amps, and a 12" Kicker Square SB that broke on me a few months ago...all really decent stuff at the beginning of the last decade so pretty much anything I do right now is an upgrade...but to get back on topic....

I've never had a head unit that has the functionality of this Pioneer and I'm really excited about simplicity after dealing with flip up screens that work when they want to and limited adjustability...oh and the 3.5mm input on the front! LOL My current unit came with a mini usb imput on the front  What am I supposed to do with that?! lol So I'm limited to blue tooth streaming which I don't always wanna do b/c it's a battery drainer on my smartphone! 

Hopefully my local shop will call me today so I can go pick it up...if free members are able to post pics, I'll try and get some decent ones on here and some first impressions...


----------



## nismos14

LOWFLYER777 said:


> Thanks for the feedback DANOMETAL and sAINT...Gonna definitely read the manual and look into going active with it! As far as being inferior for running JLA, it's all preference. I like JL b/c they're in Florida and their testing and development are all done here in the good ole USofA...some of their stuff is made here too so I wanna support them. I've been running JLA for years and they've been a relatively affordable, reliable, good sounding source for the thump in my trunk. To each their own, the setup I'm moving away from is a no name HU (formerly a Alpine), PPI slab amps, and a 12" Kicker Square SB that broke on me a few months ago...all really decent stuff at the beginning of the last decade so pretty much anything I do right now is an upgrade...but to get back on topic, I've never had a head unit that has the functionality of this Pioneer and I'm really excited about simplicity after dealing with flip up screens that work when they want to and limited adjustability...oh and the 3.5mm input on the front! LOL My current unit came with a mini usb imput on the front  What am I supposed to do with that?! lol So I'm limited to blue tooth streaming which I don't always wanna do b/c it's a battery drainer on my smartphone! Hopefully my local shop will call me today so I can go pick it up...if free members are able to post pics, I'll try and get some decent ones on here and some first impressions...


Man, I don't mind any of what you're saying or getting feedback BUT USE SOME PARAGRAPHS! I haven't read a single one of your posts because of the lack of readability!


Anyways, just remember guys the people you talk to on the phones generally do not know what's going on in the warehouse, they are customer service, not warehousing. We know pioneer shipped them, so whoever is J&R's distributor will be the one who determines when / how/ if they get them.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

My bad man.

I'll be sure to break up my posts from now on.

Although my first post was broken up into several paragraphs if you'd given me a chance; I didn't double space in between to save space and not look like a novel.

Since you haven't bothered to read anything, I'll just repeat that my local shop said that I'll probably have my new 80PRS today since they've already received shipments of other new for 2012 HU from them. If I'm able to get my hands on it today, I'll post pics and first impressions as my level of forum access allows.

Sorry for any reading inconvenience I may have caused, I didn't realize my writing skills would be tested while learning about the latest and greatest car stereo technology. Usually awful spelling is my pet peeve


----------



## nismos14

^ Thanks, and thanks for contributing to the forum in that manner. As far as I know the HU's which are already there shipped 1 or 2 business days prior to the 80prs, so they may have them today or in the next couple days, good stuff!


----------



## LOWFLYER777

nismos14 said:


> ^ Thanks, and thanks for contributing to the forum in that manner. As far as I know the HU's which are already there shipped 1 or 2 business days prior to the 80prs, so they may have them today or in the next couple days, good stuff!


They received the AVIC X940BT a few days ago and anticipate the 80PRS today! I hope I hope I hope.....


----------



## nismos14

Awesome


----------



## atxtrd

Guess what I'm going to get? Just got the call from my local shop and it is here! AND it comes with the mic AND the ipod cable, my guy at the shop opened the box and verified this! I'll post pics as soon as I get home. (Thank you sweet baby jeebus, now I can finish my install....)


----------



## nismos14

Awesome, thanks for the update!


----------



## rodneypierce

atxtrd said:


> Guess what I'm going to get? Just got the call from my local shop and it is here! AND it comes with the mic AND the ipod cable, my guy at the shop opened the box and verified this! I'll post pics as soon as I get home. (Thank you sweet baby jeebus, now I can finish my install....)


Ill be interested to see if the iPod cable is in there or not. It could be easily mistaken for a USB extension cable at first glance.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

Yay!!! Can't wait to see!


----------



## rton20s

I've been absent from the thread for a few days as well. Just starting to catch up. 

I think we've been way more in agreement than you may think. And if you had quoted me in context, you probably would have seen that. 



Bayboy said:


> In the MS-8 thread I'm sure there's several using that processor with a stock headunit that have no desire to switch to the 80prs, Clarion, or any other unit. I pointed out that I personally have heard some stock decks that were good enough leave in place and just add processing. The owners agreed. Your reply coupled with the question of me using a stock head unit out of a known old Blazer seemed kind of off-kilter. Surely you didn't think I was still using a cassette deck? I saw it as being somewhat sarcastic. I replied to something I might have taken wrongly, but anyway, it's all water under the bridge. With that please accept my apology.


Here is what this was in response to:



rton20s said:


> I could completely understand keeping a stock head unit if it has all of he capabilities and features you want. Or, if it was very integrated into the cars other electrical systems. With a car like mine, an '04 xB, I think spending the money on a nice processor without getting a new head unit would be a complete waste. Same hold true for many older vehicles that don't have capabilities like bluetooth, USB, etc.


I was very specific in my comment and using an MS-8 in my own car with the stock head unit. In no way did I imply that the MS-8 was a waste for anyone still running a stock head unit. My initial statement actually states about the complete opposite.


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

Have an email that the deck has been delievered to my house. I'll go through the box this eve when I get home.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

gmore said:


> The mics included. 'Fix the supplied micorphone in the center of the headrest' stated in manual. If it wasn't, there would be 'with the optional XXX mic' noted everywhere.


I KNOW. I read it somewhere because right after that I went and looked up the part number. They must have changed it or something. I thought it was a way for them to keep the price down or something, but hey, I'm not gonna complain one bit.


----------



## duro78

Whoever lays hands on the 80 first please post pics for the rest of us and get it installed asap lol video wouldn't hurt either. Remember your diyma family comes first for the time being.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## atxtrd

Here it is. And my mistake, it is just a usb extension cable in the box. Mic IS included.:rockon:


----------



## nismos14

NICE! I'll take the 5046 off your hands in the meantime......................


----------



## rton20s

Awesome! Thanks for the pics. 

Looks like it is time to place another call to J&R. I'm not really concerned about them being an "authorized dealer," but I would like to know if/when the HU is going to ship. I might run by a local shop this afternoon to see what they can do. 

And for those paranoid about J&R not being authorized, you may want to look at this...
Pioneer Home Audio Video Authorized Internet Dealers | Pioneer Electronics USA

So while they may not be listed as an authorized car audio and video dealer, they are listed for home audio and video. And I know they move A LOT of Pioneer product. I wouldn't be too worried about being taken care of during your warranty period.


----------



## gmore

atxtrd said:


> Here it is. And my mistake, it is just a usb extension cable in the box. Mic IS included.:rockon:


Crap - I ordered one from ebay for $0.99 earlier this week 

Thanks for the pics - can't wait!


----------



## Danometal

Ohhh I wish I would have never clicked on this thread. I can't have one! 

Aaaand, I just got off my lunch break where I just HAD TO KNOW and tested my oldschool Coustic AMP102 (circa 1991ish), and its 16x2 watts RMS has PLENTY balls to run a pair of tweeters active. Oh man does this hurt :/


----------



## atxtrd

nismos14 said:


> NICE! I'll take the 5046 off your hands in the meantime......................


Ha, I have not even installed it yet...but give me a few months and I may sell you a pair of them. I have 2 5046's and 3 3546's...all mint. I'll be running Polk SR 6500's off of 2 of the ES 5046's bridged to 2 channel...mids and highs. Zed Deuce powering 2 SI BM MKIII's under the rear seat. Been waiting a long time to get the final piece of the puzzle and I am looking forward to tearing the truck apart in the next week or so. If you are interested in the 3546's let me know, I am willing to part with 2 of them. Today has been a great day, sun is out and it is about 80 degree's outside...and I got my new toy...life is good! And for once shopping local has paid off...I gladly paid the $349 + tax!


----------



## WhiteLX

atxtrd said:


> Here it is. And my mistake, it is just a usb extension cable in the box. Mic IS included.:rockon:


Nice Sony ES amp. 



The pioneer HU is sweet too


----------



## nismos14

atxtrd said:


> Ha, I have not even installed it yet...but give me a few months and I may sell you a pair of them. I have 2 5046's and 3 3546's...all mint. I'll be running Polk SR 6500's off of 2 of the ES 5046's bridged to 2 channel...mids and highs. Zed Deuce powering 2 SI BM MKIII's under the rear seat. Been waiting a long time to get the final piece of the puzzle and I am looking forward to tearing the truck apart in the next week or so. If you are interested in the 3546's let me know, I am willing to part with 2 of them. Today has been a great day, sun is out and it is about 80 degree's outside...and I got my new toy...life is good! And for once shopping local has paid off...I gladly paid the $349 + tax!


Ah you're the one who got'em from PJ, those were all mine at one point  

Whattya want for two of the 3546's? I don't know that I can do it, but pm me a price anyway, they are such sick amps.


----------



## rton20s

I spoke with a sales rep at J&R. Apparently they still don't have any stock yet. According to their latest information they should have them in stock in 7-10 days. So probably close to 1.5-2 weeks out for delivery.


----------



## Porgy

^ you beat me to it. Just got the same information as well from them. Debating on cancelling order and hitting up someone else with them in stock.


----------



## duro78

atxtrd said:


> Here it is. And my mistake, it is just a usb extension cable in the box. Mic IS included.:rockon:


Thanks for the pics. This milestone deserves its own thread. Is the knob as obnoxious as some thought it would be?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

atxtrd said:


> Here it is. And my mistake, it is just a usb extension cable in the box. Mic IS included.:rockon:


Thanks. Any chance you can take a few out in the sun so we can see what it really looks like?


----------



## atxtrd

Here ya go.


----------



## t3sn4f2

atxtrd said:


> Here ya go.


Thanks again. Looks pretty nice.


----------



## atxtrd

duro78 said:


> Thanks for the pics. This milestone deserves its own thread. Is the knob as obnoxious as some thought it would be?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Knob seems ok to me, has click stops as you turn it. But the rocker switch behind the knob rattles when you jostle it back and forth, does not take much...too loose. I think the rocker will rattle! Perhaps I just got a funky one, I'll wait and see what happens when other get theirs and if it is an issue I will take it back.


----------



## (s)AINT

To be honest it looks way better than the rendered pics. Actually looks semi-decent


----------



## Coppertone

^^^ I concur....


----------



## nismos14

Is it installed yetttttttttt?


----------



## LOWFLYER777

atxtrd said:


> Knob seems ok to me, has click stops as you turn it. But the rocker switch behind the knob rattles when you jostle it back and forth, does not take much...too loose. I think the rocker will rattle! Perhaps I just got a funky one, I'll wait and see what happens when other get theirs and if it is an issue I will take it back.


Got mine! My rocker is the same way, so I'm pretty sure you didn't get a funky one...Don't think I can do any better on the front pics than already posted so I'll just post the back


----------



## nismos14

SO is he rocker going to make noise while you drive?


----------



## nismos14

Does it come with 2 or one usb extension?


----------



## atxtrd

nismos14 said:


> Is it installed yetttttttttt?


Ha ha! I wish, like I said I am doing a complete install with new everything...soo it will likely be sometime next week before I take the truck into the shop and tear it down...and I'm waiting on my new sail panels from Toyota. If I could I would yank my wifes HK system out of the Mercedes and put it in her car...but it's all fiber optic crap and then theres the chance she might kill me! 

Anyone else more familiar with the "lever" behind the "multi control" knob? When I move it with my thumb and index finger it has some play and I can hear it rattle, I know a sub will cause it to rattle to an annoying degree...called Pioneer just now and the guy was not very much help.


----------



## WhiteLX

Is the volume knob also the multi function rocker like on previous generation pioneers?


----------



## atxtrd

nismos14 said:


> Does it come with 2 or one usb extension?


Only one.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

nismos14 said:


> Does it come with 2 or one usb extension?


Just 1.



WhiteLX said:


> Is the volume knob also the multi function rocker like on previous generation pioneers?


Only in the push sense..nothing side to side...

As far as the other rocker, i don't think you'll hear it rattle, if it does b/c your volume is up high enough to make it do so then you'll likely not even hear it....gonna try and have mine installed by tomorrow.


----------



## nismos14

Very interesting.


----------



## Sulley

That thing looks A LOT better in real photos then those ones Pioneer had posted. Lets a get a video up of some of the audio features!


----------



## gmore

rton20s said:


> I spoke with a sales rep at J&R. Apparently they still don't have any stock yet. According to their latest information they should have them in stock in 7-10 days. So probably close to 1.5-2 weeks out for delivery.


I was a bit skeptical about J&R _not_ being an authorized dealer (I can't see any reputable company shipping a new release to someone unauthorized), but if they're quoting that long a delay, I'm guessing they're not authorized and getting them sideways.

Have to seriously consider cancelling my order


----------



## duro78

gmore said:


> I was a bit skeptical about J&R _not_ being an authorized dealer (I can't see any reputable company shipping a new release to someone unauthorized), but if they're quoting that long a delay, I'm guessing they're not authorized and getting them sideways.
> 
> Have to seriously consider cancelling my order


That's not necessarily true, a few of us ordered from Pacific stereo which is unauthorized and our orders shipped today. Crazystereo also has them in stock and they aren't authorized either. Come to think of it I called authorized dealers and they still don't have any stock yet. I called Crutchfield yesterday and nothing. What your saying does make sense, I would of thought the same but apparently it doesn't work like that.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> Is it installed yetttttttttt?


I would of had it installed within 15 minutes of big brown driving off lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## nismos14

I am debating even opening mine, I may just keep it sealed for a long, long time.


----------



## duro78

I never had a problem with the original pics but it looks a lot better. Actually looks like a slightly cheaper 99. It has a Very clean classic look to it.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> I am debating even opening mine, I may just keep it sealed for a long, long time.


Sit back and enjoy it this has been a long time coming, I know that won't last long lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ErinH

if any of you happen to have access to a pioneer p99 remote, please let us know if it works with the 80prs in the same manner it does with the p99. I'm curious if the p99 remote would allow you to scroll through various menus of the 80prs in the same way it does on the p99. if so, that would be a really cool feature (not cheap, though, @ $90 for the p99 remove).


----------



## gmore

duro78 said:


> That's not necessarily true, a few of us ordered from Pacific stereo which is unauthorized and our orders shipped today. Crazystereo also has them in stock and they aren't authorized either. Come to think of it I called authorized dealers and they still don't have any stock yet. I called Crutchfield yesterday and nothing. What your saying does make sense, I would of thought the same but apparently it doesn't work like that.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Mispoke a bit before and I could be wrong here, but if they(Pacific, Crazystereo) received theirs from Pioneer (and I have to assume they did), they should be authorized Pioneer dealers - they may not be 'preferred' or authorized online(local sales only), but they should be authorized.


----------



## rodneypierce

if you look online, Pioneer's authorized dealers are very few and far between. So who knows. Honestly, who really cares. As long as we all get them, it doesnt really matter where they came from. Im just jonesing to get mine!!


----------



## Sadus

It will matter when our pico fuses blow :surprised:


----------



## rodneypierce

Sadus said:


> It will matter when our pico fuses blow :surprised:


no, not really. Its as simple as using one's head, and not hot swapping the RCA's.. There are plenty of 800/880's out there with perfectly good pico fuses that have been in use for years.


----------



## duro78

gmore said:


> Mispoke a bit before and I could be wrong here, but if they(Pacific, Crazystereo) received theirs from Pioneer (and I have to assume they did), they should be authorized Pioneer dealers - they may not be 'preferred' or authorized online(local sales only), but they should be authorized.


According to pioneers website a company is either or, there's no grey area. If their authorized emblem isn't on the sellers site and they're not listed on pioneers site its my understanding they're not authorized. Pioneers site is adamant about that. Also Pioneer sent mass shipment emails last week to all their retailers before shipments were sent out

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> I am debating even opening mine, I may just keep it sealed for a long, long time.


just a couple pages back you were talking about not getting it on the bench quick enough. Whats the deal brother? This isnt going to be for sale in a couple weeks too is it?


----------



## gmore

How and why does an unauthorized dealer get newly released product before an authorized dealer who has to typically make large commitments to become authorized ?

Ultimately I'm only concerned about warranty, and again - I could be wrong,but if this is true... HIGHLY unusual in the retail world.


----------



## rton20s

There is a good reason shops like J&R and Ceutchfield do not have their units yet. Authorized or otherwise, those shops are on the East Coast. Pioneer has statde that their distribution centers are on the West Coast. Hence the reason West Coast dealers have units in stock and East Coast dealers do not. It is simply a matter of logistics.


----------



## gmore

rton20s said:


> There is a good reason shops like J&R and Ceutchfield do not have their units yet. Authorized or otherwise, those shops are on the East Coast. Pioneer has statde that their distribution centers are on the West Coast. Hence the reason West Coast dealers have units in stock and East Coast dealers do not. It is simply a matter of logistics.


Agreed, but if the 7-10 day J&R statement above is true - something else may be up.


----------



## ErinH

i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


----------



## rodneypierce

bikinpunk said:


> i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


LOL, most likely true.


----------



## atxtrd

Question, do I have to use the Pioneer CD-IU51 iPod/iPhone cable or can I just use a plain ole white iPod/iPhone cable? Any Difference?


----------



## thomasluke

bikinpunk said:


> i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


What if you get the remote from an unauthorized dealer?


----------



## nervewrecker

I hate you guys who already got yours.


----------



## nervewrecker

bikinpunk said:


> *if any of you happen to have access to a pioneer p99 remote, please let us know if it works with the 80prs* *in the same manner it does with the p99. * I'm curious if the p99 remote would allow you to scroll through various menus of the 80prs in the same way it does on the p99. if so, that would be a really cool feature (not cheap, though, @ $90 for the p99 remove).


interesting thought.


----------



## pongagt

Mine from Pacific has had a origin scan in Riverside, CA so it looks like it really has been shipped. I'll bet the dealers on the west coast got theirs a few days before those on the east coast. The eta to Buffalo, NY is Friday the 30th.


----------



## rodneypierce

pongagt said:


> Mine from Pacific has had a origin scan in Riverside, CA so it looks like it really has been shipped. I'll bet the dealers on the west coast got theirs a few days before those on the east coast. The eta to Buffalo, NY is Friday the 30th.


Mine as well. I was told it would be shipped out 2nd day air, but appears they did not hold up to that end of the bargain.


----------



## pongagt

rodneypierce said:


> Mine as well. I was told it would be shipped out 2nd day air, but appears they did not hold up to that end of the bargain.


I chose regional free shipping so i didn't expect much. I'm just glad they actually had it to ship. 

I have to fix my Soundstream Rubicon 805 amp before i need it anyways. It has a delay in turning on and i'm pretty sure i know what is wrong with it thanks to DIY.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

I need opinions please...after close examination of my faceplate this evening I came across this debbie downer....not sure if it's a surface scratch or a crack in the plastic...This HU has barely been handled and not installed yet...What would you do if you were me?? I'm open to suggestions and will be going to the shop I picked it up at tomorrow with whatever comes out of this thread.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

LOWFLYER777 said:


> I need opinions please...after close examination of my faceplate this evening I came across this debbie downer....not sure if it's a surface scratch or a crack in the plastic...This HU has barely been handled and not installed yet...What would you do if you were me?? I'm open to suggestions and will be going to the shop I picked it up at tomorrow with whatever comes out of this thread.



I honestly wouldn't care all that much. Maybe see if you could just exchange the faceplate? It's going to get scratched sooner or later.


----------



## subwoofery

bikinpunk said:


> i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


To be honest, I feel 90% of the post is going to be about "who's gonna get it the cheapest" than discussing about "what feature will it really have..." 

Kelvin


----------



## darrenforeal

Porgy said:


> ^ you beat me to it. Just got the same information as well from them. Debating on cancelling order and hitting up someone else with them in stock.


i'm thinking about cancelling too.




LOWFLYER777 said:


> Got mine! My rocker is the same way, so I'm pretty sure you didn't get a funky one...Don't think I can do any better on the front pics than already posted so I'll just post the back


nice! where'd you order from?



bikinpunk said:


> i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


I have a p99. I will check!


----------



## JAX

can we get some pics with the display on?? I want to see what it looks like "on"


----------



## duro78

Might be a stupid question but I didn't see it in the specs, is the face motorized?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## todd4198

For those worried about J&R being authorized, it appears they are for all of their products.
JR.com: Authorized Dealer


----------



## LOWFLYER777

darrenforeal said:


> i'm thinking about cancelling too.
> 
> nice! where'd you order from?
> 
> I have a p99. I will check!





duro78 said:


> Might be a stupid question but I didn't see it in the specs, is the face motorized?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I ordered mine from a local stereo shop called Empress Audio in Gulfport, MS and no the face is not motorized...it's a flap down/remove-able which is necessary to facilitate insert/removal of SD cards.


----------



## nismos14

Looks like you guys who got them are happy, anyone have it powered on yet?


----------



## nismos14

rodneypierce said:


> just a couple pages back you were talking about not getting it on the bench quick enough. Whats the deal brother? This isnt going to be for sale in a couple weeks too is it?


Yea, but I changed my mind partially because so many people have them already and are probably going to review them well.

I am seeing them on ebay now for $400!



bikinpunk said:


> i have feeling my p99 remote question is going to be buried by the talk of who is an authorized dealer...


I would try it but have no access to a p99 remote, is it worth it? 



nismos14 said:


> Looks like you guys who got them are happy, anyone have it powered on yet?


----------



## duro78

LOWFLYER777 said:


> I ordered mine from a local stereo shop called Empress Audio in Gulfport, MS and no the face is not motorized...it's a flap down/remove-able which is necessary to facilitate insert/removal of SD cards.


Thank you sir, i wasn't exactly sure what a flap down face design was.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

nismos14 said:


> Yea, but I changed my mind partially because so many people have them already and are probably going to review them well.
> 
> I am seeing them on ebay now for $400!
> 
> 
> 
> I would try it but have no access to a p99 remote, is it worth it?


$400 I guess theyre speculating the first shipments are going to sell out fairly quickly. Im figuring prices will shoot up if pioneer doesn't restock they're retailers quick enough to support the demand.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## bigugly78cj5

darrenforeal said:


> i'm thinking about cancelling too.




I was going to cancel from JR today if i could find one local but no dice. So im sticking with JR at 299 shipped... Even if i was to order from pacific still i wouldnt see it till friday at best, UPS takes forever from cali to South florida. Id like to think places on the east coast should see them monday/tuesday if they started showing up on the west coast last wednesday or so. 

Im just hoping anyways. 


On another note, with using the USB, do you just load a bunch of music on a USB storage drive and the HU will play they direct from there? I normally use my phone as my player but been having problems with my phones media players EQ throwing everything off and would rather just use the Pioneers/amps EQ...


----------



## LOWFLYER777

duro78 said:


> Thank you sir, i wasn't exactly sure what a flap down face design was.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I thought it was odd terminology as well, but I guess since it's a flip down/push up design they call it a flap...who knows about these engineers...lol



bigugly78cj5 said:


> I was going to cancel from JR today if i could find one local but no dice. So im sticking with JR at 299 shipped... Even if i was to order from pacific still i wouldnt see it till friday at best, UPS takes forever from cali to South florida. Id like to think places on the east coast should see them monday/tuesday if they started showing up on the west coast last wednesday or so.
> 
> Im just hoping anyways.
> 
> On another note, with using the USB, do you just load a bunch of music on a USB storage drive and the HU will play they direct from there? I normally use my phone as my player but been having problems with my phones media players EQ throwing everything off and would rather just use the Pioneers/amps EQ...


There's one here in Mississippi if you're willing to drive from FL to get it...My authorized dealer sold it to me for $321 out the door which I thought was reasonable for a brick and mortar with OEM warranty. 

And I believe that is how these HUs work, they read the storage drive much like a computer would except only certain types of files will be recognized ie: MP3, WAV, ect ect....


----------



## LOWFLYER777

LOWFLYER777 said:


> I need opinions please...after close examination of my faceplate this evening I came across this debbie downer....not sure if it's a surface scratch or a crack in the plastic...This HU has barely been handled and not installed yet...What would you do if you were me?? I'm open to suggestions and will be going to the shop I picked it up at tomorrow with whatever comes out of this thread.


Well I went back to Empress today because they're sales team is excellent and figured they'd just swap me faceplates if indeed it was warranted and they were absolutely willing to, UNTIL...they brought out another 80PRS which had the exact same defect, in the exact same spot, exact same length...  So apparently there is a tooling defect that some units may have near the front 3.5mm jack which is under the laminate, looks like a crack, but is in fact not....

Anyone else have this tooling defect?? I ended up just keeping mine.


----------



## duro78

bigugly78cj5 said:


> I was going to cancel from JR today if i could find one local but no dice. So im sticking with JR at 299 shipped... Even if i was to order from pacific still i wouldnt see it till friday at best, UPS takes forever from cali to South florida. Id like to think places on the east coast should see them monday/tuesday if they started showing up on the west coast last wednesday or so.
> 
> Im just hoping anyways.
> 
> 
> On another note, with using the USB, do you just load a bunch of music on a USB storage drive and the HU will play they direct from there? I normally use my phone as my player but been having problems with my phones media players EQ throwing everything off and would rather just use the Pioneers/amps EQ...


I'm new to the whole USB thing also. It works just like an iPod (mass storage unit). Load the songs up on your PC unplug it then plug it into your hu. Its quite convenient. Several gigabytes worth of songs in a unit smaller than your pinky, really can't beat it. A lot of older guys argue the quality of compressed music but who the hell has time to carry a thick 25lb book of CDs not too mention having to fiddle around with them while driving. Try it you'll never go back. Oh yeah if it was me I'd just save the $50, down the road you'll think back and probably say a week or two really wasn't worth an extra $50. We're all falling victim to the gotta have it now but IMO save your money.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ramonesfan

Purchased mine thru Crutchfield the other day, still showing preorder (not in stock). Anytime the price is close, Crutchfield rules for me - get the install gear with it & installation help in case (when) I mess up, plus they're authorized. Will replace my Alpine CDE-123, nice unit but expecting better SQ and more reliable Bluetooth with this Pioneer. Hope this HU works out for me & all who are giving it a shot.


----------



## duro78

ramonesfan said:


> Purchased mine thru Crutchfield the other day, still showing preorder (not in stock). Anytime the price is close, Crutchfield rules for me - get the install gear with it & installation help in case (when) I mess up, plus they're authorized. Will replace my Alpine CDE-123, nice unit but expecting better SQ and more reliable Bluetooth with this Pioneer. Hope this HU works out for me & all who are giving it a shot.


I was thinking the same thing especially considering the extra gear and the top notch cs. Like most I got bitten by the impatience bug. After all is said and done it probably would of been a better decision.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ramonesfan

duro78 said:


> I was thinking the same thing especially considering the extra gear and the top notch cs. Like most I got bitten by the impatience bug. After all is said and done it probably would of been a better decision.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Their cs & return policies rock, like world class (I'm just a dude, no involvement whatsoever). Last yr as a 'noob' I purchased an Alpine HU that I thought would do me for yrs, after 4-6 weeks got the bug to put in amps & subs - the HU didn't have outputs. So I called about a different HU & they sent it to me the next day, delivered to my house the next afternoon, and let me return the original HU within xx days (30?) for full refund. Talk about making a customer for life, thought that wrong choice was a $300 mistake. 

So if my Pioneer impulse is unwarranted or there's any reason for changing my mind, they have me covered.....or when I hook everything up and it doesn't quite work and I need some immediate wiring help...:blush:


----------



## nismos14

Yea they have a 60 day hu return policy.


----------



## Bayboy

Their pretty much no questions asked return policy is woth the extra $50 alone! Almost no other company will let you return a product just because "you didn't like it". The rest claim it has to be a manufacturer defect.

Anyways, for the few that have received theirs.... Will someone please stop gawking at it and install it?!  We'd like to get a good review on sound quality characteristics, ease of use, & any features that may have been overlooked.


----------



## SupraSkylineSTI

Damn this headunit looks rediculously cheap compared to the higher end pioneers.


----------



## IBcivic

SupraSkylineSTI said:


> Damn this headunit looks rediculously cheap compared to the higher end pioneers.


Great first post!...


----------



## SupraSkylineSTI

I only joined so I could see actual pictures of what the 80prs looks like.
Pretty damn disappointing I must say.


----------



## nismos14

Looks fine to me.


----------



## Bayboy

SupraSkylineSTI said:


> Damn this headunit looks rediculously cheap compared to the higher end pioneers.



It wasn't really meant to compete with the higher end model. That's another $800! For what it offers, appearance can be overlooked quite easily. Besides, it doesn't look that much different as far as being blacked out.


----------



## JAX

powered up pics please


----------



## gt.in.it

whats the difference between the standard mode and the 3 way net work? in the manual it shows it hooked up the exact same if you were running external amps. whats the best way to go? pros cons?


----------



## gt.in.it

after reading the manual more it looks like if you run 3 way you have no rear speakers but have time alignment, standard mode has rear fill but no time alignment? if im reading that right


----------



## Bayboy

Take the time to read the manual. Standard mode will be front, rears, & sub like running a passive comp set/coaxial up front with coaxial in the rear. Network mode would be splitting up the amplification between tweeter, midbass, & sub (no rears). That's the basics unless you find ways to further manipulate/integrate it to your liking.


----------



## duro78

Like bayboy said depends if you plan on running active or passive. Obviously active will give you more control over your drivers if your not using passive crossovers of course.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

there hasnt been a single person who has this, install it yet? We cant even get a powered on picture? 

If we dont have any by Thursday, I will get one put up as soon as I get home and get it installed. Ill have mine installed within 20 minutes of getting home.....


----------



## Bayboy

Please do!


----------



## hornedfrog2000

rodneypierce said:


> there hasnt been a single person who has this, install it yet? We cant even get a powered on picture?
> 
> If we dont have any by Thursday, I will get one put up as soon as I get home and get it installed. Ill have mine installed within 20 minutes of getting home.....


I would have had it in within 30 minutes of it being in my possession ha.


----------



## rodneypierce

hornedfrog2000 said:


> I would have had it in within 30 minutes of it being in my possession ha.


Hey, another Iowa guy!!


----------



## (s)AINT

Mine is on order and should be here by Thursday latest. If there's no videos I will make one


----------



## boxer12

Pioneer posted a video of its new CD receivers on its website. I clicked on CD Receivers and "The 2012 Lineup". The 80PRS was at the end of the video. It looks really nice. I had purchased the CDA-117 before it was discontinued as an upgrade to my Pioneer DEH-P6000UB but have not installed it yet. After hearing about the 80PRS and seeing the video I have thought about returning the CDA-117. Considering the CDA-117 was Alpine's top of the line CD receiver and the 80PRS is a much more affordable version of the the P99RS I am curious to see if the 80PRS offers the same quality as the CDA-117.


----------



## sqnut

gt.in.it said:


> whats the difference between the standard mode and the 3 way net work? in the manual it shows it hooked up the exact same if you were running external amps. whats the best way to go? pros cons?


You may want to check the manual, but if its like the p800/880 then:

STD Mode:

1. Is basically for a passive setup.
2. Max slope on sub is 18db/oct and on the speakers its 12db/oct.
3. Time alignment is not seperate for MB and tweeter. However if you're only running 1 pair of components and your passive allows you to bi-amp you can use the front/rears to do the MB/Tweet. IIRC
4. You can't bandpass the mid. You only set the sub to MB xover.

NTW Mode:

1. Is for an active setup.
2. You get upto 36db/oct on the sub and 24db/oct on the MB and tweets.
3. Time alignment is for individual drivers.
4. You get to set sub to mid and mid to tweet xovers.


----------



## nismos14

boxer12 said:


> Pioneer posted a video of its new CD receivers on its website. I clicked on CD Receivers and "The 2012 Lineup". The 80PRS was at the end of the video. It looks really nice. I had purchased the CDA-117 before it was discontinued as an upgrade to my Pioneer DEH-P6000UB but have not installed it yet. After hearing about the 80PRS and seeing the video I have thought about returning the CDA-117. Considering the CDA-117 was Alpine's top of the line CD receiver and the 80PRS is a much more affordable version of the the P99RS I am curious to see if the 80PRS offers the same quality as the CDA-117.


Can we put this to bed? The 80prs is not a more affordable version of the p99. The p99 is a different ballgame, it's 3-way + sub active capable. The 80prs is a replacement to the 800prs/880prs line. 



sqnut said:


> You may want to check the manual, but if its like the p800/880 then:
> 
> STD Mode:
> 
> 1. Is basically for a passive setup.
> 2. Max slope on sub is 18db/oct and on the speakers its 12db/oct.
> 3. Time alignment is not seperate for MB and tweeter. However if you're only running 1 pair of components and your passive allows you to bi-amp you can use the front/rears to do the MB/Tweet. IIRC
> 4. You can't bandpass the mid. You only set the sub to MB xover.
> 
> NTW Mode:
> 
> 1. Is for an active setup.
> 2. You get upto 36db/oct on the sub and 24db/oct on the MB and tweets.
> 3. Time alignment is for individual drivers.
> 4. You get to set sub to mid and mid to tweet xovers.


There's nothing to check, that is the difference. It kind of boggle my mind that people buying this deck or previous model high end Pio's don't know these things. This is part of the selling point for these decks. Not that there's anything wrong with buying it to run passive, but c'mon guys!


----------



## Bayboy

I just wanna see a review..... somebody???? I know by now someone has it up and running. Give us the skinny!


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> I just wanna see a review..... somebody???? I know by now someone has it up and running. Give us the skinny!


I don't know what's going on here I would of had it powered up 10 minutes after I opened the box lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Probably will end up with someone putting up a vid on youtube first before a member here posts one.


----------



## JAX

I stopped by local high end shop to get some wire. 

I asked when they were getting the new one. 

He told me they would special order it if wanted . They were going to carry the lower **** models I guess so they could get more mark up. 

They were going to order the DD decks. 

This same shop has mosconi amps and wanted $1100 for the 4 channel


----------



## dnuts

Signed up just to look at the pics, member on way too many forums  however, ordered from Pacific, they have in stock and will ship today. Willing to price match J&R at $299.99 if anyone wants to know


----------



## Fastkiller

here you go some more pics: 



> item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15955636699


wonder if the screen is actually able to represent colours?


----------



## blacklabel

I really want this HU, but no satellite radio support is a total deal breaker for me. Heartbroken


----------



## dietDrThunder

Crutchfield has changed the ship date to "expected 3/29"

Wahoo!


----------



## t3sn4f2

blacklabel said:


> I really want this HU, but no satellite radio support is a total deal breaker for me. Heartbroken


If you have an iPhone, their sat app should work with this radio's App compatibility feature. At the very least it should let you navigate the sat app from the phone and output audio over the USB interface.


----------



## Porgy

I just cancelled my order through J&R, and ordered through Pacific Stereo. They sounded on edge about it but agreed to pricematch at 299.95 + free shipping. Still had to pay sales tax though so ended up $26 over the J&R shipped price. Its a one day ship (heck i guess I could technically just drive over and pick it up). But if nobody has it powered on or video by tomorrow I will.


----------



## Andrius

All of you are talking about couple of days waiting time.I'm in Norway and it will be here May or so...You lucky bastards  why states always gets everything first...


----------



## WLDock

SupraSkylineSTI said:


> I only joined so I could see actual pictures of what the 80prs looks like. Pretty damn disappointing I must say.


 Not the prettiest looking deck around....My first impression was that it looked cheap. It looks better on the Pioneer Japan site however: carrozzeria | DEH-970 | ???????
Nevertheless, one can look past that given the deck has the most features at the lowest price to date from Pioneer. 

The P99 is the looker....as it should be.


----------



## dietDrThunder

Ok screw it...I just ordered from Pacific with 2 day air, and am cancelling with Crutchfield. I love the big C, but I have a MECA show this weekend, and I need TA!


----------



## rodneypierce

diet, make sure you actually pay for the 2 day shipping, otherwise it will be sent ground. I was supposed to get free 2nd day air and it was sent out ground shipping. So if your expecting it this week, I would make sure you pay for money for the second day.


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> diet, make sure you actually pay for the 2 day shipping, otherwise it will be sent ground. I was supposed to get free 2nd day air and it was sent out ground shipping. So if your expecting it this week, I would make sure you pay for money for the second day.


ya I did...he told me that I qualified for free ground, and I upgraded to 2 day for $25. Thanks much for looking out for me though, I appreciate it!


----------



## rodneypierce

No problem brotha!


----------



## dietDrThunder

Oh, and just in case the impossible happens and nobody posts pics, I _will_ have mine installed by EOD on Thursday, so I'll post pics if needed.


----------



## sqnut

nismos14 said:


> There's nothing to check, that is the difference. It kind of boggle my mind that people buying this deck or previous model high end Pio's don't know these things. This is part of the selling point for these decks. Not that there's anything wrong with buying it to run passive, but c'mon guys!


So how many folks will actually know how to use the dsp at hand and hence get the best out of the unit? I know it took me 2 years to get to the point where the level of dsp on the p-80rsII was a limiting factor, but then I'm not very smart . This is not a plug and play unit.


----------



## dietDrThunder

sqnut said:


> So how many folks will actually know how to use the dsp at hand and hence get the best out of the unit? I know it took me 2 years to get to the point where the level of dsp on the p-80rsII was a limiting factor, but then I'm not very smart .


I see your point, but I'm not sure why someone who doesn't understand the various implications of the DSP features would want this deck at all. I am very happy with the $200 Clarion deck I have now, and in fact I'm giving up features with this one (XM radio in particular) to get it.

If it weren't specifically for the TA and powerful EQ and x-over features I'd never consider this deck.

Speaking of that...no XM? Really? Why can I buy a $90 Dual and have a sat radio option, but not with this one? Ugh. /rant


----------



## rodneypierce

Im thinking it was all to keep it at a "manageable" price point. Plus, Im betting most of the general public doesnt use satellite radio. Just a guess though.


----------



## spl152db

rodneypierce said:


> Im thinking it was all to keep it at a "manageable" price point. Plus, Im betting most of the general public doesnt use satellite radio. Just a guess though.


i've had it before, can get better streaming on my phone. no need for it.


----------



## dietDrThunder

spl152db said:


> i've had it before, can get better streaming on my phone. no need for it.


This is a good point actually...there is an Android XM client...that and Bluetooth (and my Sprint unlimited data  ) should fix me right up.


----------



## Danometal

So get this:

CDA-117 vs. DEH-80PRS

Wife told me last night that, if I wanted to, I COULD HAVE the 80PRS, if I put my CDA-117 in her car, so long as her Pandora on her phone would work with it. I about peed myself. So, put the kid to bed and rushed outside to check her phone out on my Alpine...

Doesn't work via USB. OK, so maybe we have to stream it via Bluetooth. Never done that before, so I googled how to do it.

Oh this hurts... my CDA-117 didn't COME with Bluetooth. It's F-ing OPTIONAL!!! Just add a $150 Alpine BT Module!!!!

Really.

So, I just ordered a Cache' CE/X electronic crossover from Sonicelectronix, because DANG IT I'm going active. But, POO on Alpine!!

/rant


----------



## rodneypierce

Danometal said:


> So get this:
> 
> CDA-117 vs. DEH-80PRS
> 
> Wife told me last night that, if I wanted to, I COULD HAVE the 80PRS, if I put my CDA-117 in her car, so long as her Pandora on her phone would work with it. I about peed myself. So, put the kid to bed and rushed outside to check her phone out on my Alpine...
> 
> Doesn't work via USB. OK, so maybe we have to stream it via Bluetooth. Never done that before, so I googled how to do it.
> 
> Oh this hurts... my CDA-117 didn't COME with Bluetooth. It's F-ing OPTIONAL!!! Just add a $150 Alpine BT Module!!!!
> 
> Really.
> 
> So, I just ordered a Cache' CE/X electronic crossover from Sonicelectronix, because DANG IT I'm going active. But, POO on Alpine!!
> 
> /rant



Alpine is famous for there "add on's".

This is why I personally have never owned one. Things that I feel should come with a good HU, I have to pay for additionally with Alpine. No thanks.


----------



## sqnut

dietDrThunder said:


> I see your point, but I'm not sure why someone who doesn't understand the various implications of the DSP features would want this deck at all.


Maybe because its the latest boner and a true sq unit. But its not plug and play. 



dietDrThunder said:


> Speaking of that...no XM? Really? Why can I buy a $90 Dual and have a sat radio option, but not with this one? Ugh. /rant


Ah but the $90 Dual would give you zero dsp. So take your pick .


----------



## Danometal

rodneypierce said:


> Alpine is famous for there "add on's".
> 
> This is why I personally have never owned one. Things that I feel should come with a good HU, I have to pay for additionally with Alpine. No thanks.


Yea, this little surprise murdered my buzz that I once had about the 117, even after I discovered it can't even LP my sub!! Unbelievable. I can't believe I got so raped from buying it for the TA and iPod interface. Heck, it scrolls through the iPod painfully slow anyway.

F/S - Alpine CDA-117...


----------



## rodneypierce

Danometal said:


> Yea, this little surprise murdered my buzz that I once had about the 117, even after I discovered it can't even LP my sub!! Unbelievable. I can't believe I got so raped from buying it for the TA and iPod interface. Heck, it scrolls through the iPod painfully slow anyway.
> 
> F/S - Alpine CDA-117...


:laugh: Time to sell it and get the 80PRS my friend


----------



## dietDrThunder

Danometal said:


> So get this:
> 
> CDA-117 vs. DEH-80PRS
> 
> Wife told me last night that, if I wanted to, I COULD HAVE the 80PRS, if I put my CDA-117 in her car, so long as her Pandora on her phone would work with it. I about peed myself. So, put the kid to bed and rushed outside to check her phone out on my Alpine...
> 
> Doesn't work via USB. OK, so maybe we have to stream it via Bluetooth. Never done that before, so I googled how to do it.
> 
> Oh this hurts... my CDA-117 didn't COME with Bluetooth. It's F-ing OPTIONAL!!! Just add a $150 Alpine BT Module!!!!
> 
> Really.
> 
> So, I just ordered a Cache' CE/X electronic crossover from Sonicelectronix, because DANG IT I'm going active. But, POO on Alpine!!
> 
> /rant


You missed your loophole!

Her: Hey, why are there 2 boxes from the stereo shop?

You: you said that I could get the new HU if the Alpine could do Pandora in your car.

Her: Um ya...?

You: So the second box is the $150 item that makes Pandora work in your car!


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> You missed your loophole!
> 
> Her: Hey, why are there 2 boxes from the stereo shop?
> 
> You: you said that I could get the new HU if the Alpine could do Pandora in your car.
> 
> Her: Um ya...?
> 
> You: So the second box is the $150 item that makes Pandora work in your car!



GENIUS!!!!!!


----------



## bigugly78cj5

dietDrThunder said:


> Ok screw it...I just ordered from Pacific with 2 day air, and am cancelling with Crutchfield. I love the big C, but I have a MECA show this weekend, and I need TA!




I did the same thing, cancelled with JR and ordered at pacific with 2nd day air. 321 total.... Since they pricematched i had no problem cancelling.... now if i will actually use this HU to its full potential, well see. but i doubt it. its going in a jeep wrangler


----------



## duro78

Wonder how good it streams music via bt. Anybody familiar with this feature, hows the sq?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## WLDock

OK, since this thread is already out of control and many are impatiently waiting for in operation pics....Here are some pics from the net of the *Japanese Carrozzeria DEH-970*. I bet you guys did not think to search for these? Well, I did not myself until just now...









































*Check this out...they removed the faceplate and made it into a Double DIN!*


----------



## WLDock

*DISPLAY FLASH DEMO TOOL* - This link allows you to select different color combos!
http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/products/deh_970/common/swf/color.swf


----------



## WLDock

*DEH-970 INTERNAL PICTURES (Gut Shots)*

ä¸*æ�‘å±‹BLOG » ã‚«ãƒ*ãƒƒãƒ„ã‚§ãƒªã‚¢ DEH-970 åˆ†è§£ã€€DEH-P930ã�¨ã�®æ¯”è¼ƒ

ä¸*æ�‘å±‹BLOG » ã‚«ãƒ*ãƒƒãƒ„ã‚§ãƒªã‚¢ DEH-970 åˆ†è§£ã€€DEH-P930ã�¨ã�®æ¯”è¼ƒ 2


----------



## Danometal

Sick. It's got a Voltage meter built in!


----------



## nismos14

The same crack thing is visible in this pic


----------



## duro78

Danometal said:


> Sick. It's got a Voltage meter built in!


Did you notice it even displays the bit rate of the recording that's a first for me.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## WhiteLX

I think I'm going to have to pick one of these up for my mustang in a few months when I go active. Seems it has everything I want (except 4-way) including eq, variable color and pandora.

Can the internal amp be turned off?


----------



## nismos14

860mp/800/880prs all did bit rate.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

nismos14 said:


> The same crack thing is visible in this pic


TY! Finally a response...I was beginning to think I was the only one...So I guess it is a tooling defect....


----------



## duro78

Oh OK its me that's behind the times. Thought that was some new ish lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## jtaudioacc

i picked one up today


----------



## (s)AINT

Don't think the crack thing is that big of an issue. Just imagine how many more cracks will be added by plugging in an aux cable over the course of a few years.

The unit still looks kind of cheap, the jury is still out for me until I get mine.


----------



## WLDock




----------



## dietDrThunder

(s)AINT said:


> Don't think the crack thing is that big of an issue. Just imagine how many more cracks will be added by plugging in an aux cable over the course of a few years.
> 
> The unit still looks kind of cheap, the jury is still out for me until I get mine.


Er...huh? I haven't ever cracked a face plate of any head unit ever. Why would you think that adding a bunch of cracks would be expected?

If my unit has that too (and I assume it will) I'll be exchanging it when they fix the defect.


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> Er...huh? I haven't ever cracked a face plate of any head unit ever. Why would you think that adding a bunch of cracks would be expected?
> 
> If my unit has that too (and I assume it will) I'll be exchanging it when they fix the defect.


Im really not at all worried about it. Its not a crack... It will be perfectly fine.


----------



## JAX

not as bad as I expected. 

some pics looks like a alpine..some look like a jvc...or the gosh aweful kenwoods. ..

I will wait for more pics. lol.


----------



## WLDock

LET'S MAX THIS THREAD OUT! I found these pics here: ÈÕ±¾pioneer/ÏÈ·æDEH-80PRS ·¢ÉÕ¼¶³µÔØCDÖ÷»ú-ÌÔ±¦Íø

*DEH-80PRS*


----------



## WLDock

Pics found here: ÈÕ±¾pioneer/ÏÈ·æDEH-80PRS ·¢ÉÕ¼¶³µÔØCDÖ÷»ú-ÌÔ±¦Íø


----------



## subwoofery

For those that are using a widebander (full range driver), this HU might not be suited for your system. HPF on the high RCA can only go down to 1.25kHz (unless I'm mistaken...) 

Kelvin


----------



## jtaudioacc

subwoofery said:


> For those that are using a widebander (full range driver), this HU might not be suited for your system. HPF on the high RCA can only go down to 1.25kHz (unless I'm mistaken...)
> 
> Kelvin


yup, that's what it shows on page 25.

maybe it's possible to use two high pass and use outboard crossovers to bandpass the mids and high pass to cutoff the widebanders? just skimming the manual, so i'm not sure.


----------



## darrenforeal

Porgy said:


> I just cancelled my order through J&R, and ordered through Pacific Stereo. They sounded on edge about it but agreed to pricematch at 299.95 + free shipping. Still had to pay sales tax though so ended up $26 over the J&R shipped price. Its a one day ship (heck i guess I could technically just drive over and pick it up). But if nobody has it powered on or video by tomorrow I will.


did the same on sat. received my tracking number today


----------



## cd36c

What really? Only 1.25khz on the high pass? That is a deal breaker for me. I need it to go down to about 300hz. I was excited for this deck but i cant run it now. That is borrible news! 

Can you make the high output run full range to let my amp handle the high pass?


----------



## subwoofery

cd36c said:


> What really? Only 1.25khz on the high pass? That is a deal breaker for me. I need it to go down to about 300hz. I was excited for this deck but i cant run it now. That is borrible news!
> 
> Can you make the high output run full range to let my amp handle the high pass?


^ that's why I chose to post it one more time... Sometimes good infos get buried in huge threads

Kelvin


----------



## ZAKOH

I wonder how far the SQ would be compared to using JBL's MS-8 as a DSP. I kind of wanted to experiment with a well implemented rear fill.


----------



## Bayboy

> What really? Only 1.25khz on the high pass? That is a deal breaker for me. I need it to go down to about 300hz. I was excited for this deck but i cant run it now. That is borrible news!
> 
> Can you make the high output run full range to let my amp handle the high pass?


One workable solution is the fact that the midrange filters are quite broad. If you use a separate active 2-way xover with frequencies to your liking, keep the midrange/wideband fairly close to the midbass, & use a small tweeter, you can essentially make it a 4-way system that is functional with t/a. May not suit everyone, but it's quite doable.


----------



## WLDock

subwoofery said:


> For those that are using a widebander (full range driver), this HU might not be suited for your system. HPF on the high RCA can only go down to 1.25kHz (unless I'm mistaken...) Kelvin





cd36c said:


> What really? Only 1.25khz on the high pass? That is a deal breaker for me. I need it to go down to about 300hz. I was excited for this deck but i cant run it now. That is borrible news! Can you make the high output run full range to let my amp handle the high pass?


Pioneer has been doing this for ages now...dealers really need to get the word out to them that adding a TWEETER Pass/0dB slope would open up possibilities and make the deck more attractive to a wider variety of buyers.

However, it might work with "some" small mid/tweet passive combos in "some" systems. Just have to use the shallow slope.

With a 1.25KHz crossover point & 6dB/oct slope
-6dB down @ 625Hz
-12dB down @ 312.5Hz
-18dB down @ 156.25Hz
-24dB down @ 78.13Hz


In comparison...if lower values were available on the TWEETER crossover:

With a 400Hz crossover point & 12dB/oct slope
-12dB down @ 200Hz
-24dB down @ 100Hz

With a 400Hz crossover point & 18dB/oct slope
-18dB down @ 200Hz
-36dB down @ 100Hz

With a 400Hz crossoer point & 24dB/oct slope
-24dB down @ 200Hz
-48dB down @ 100Hz 
---------------------------------------------

With a 300Hz crossover point & 12dB/oct slope
-12dB down @ 150Hz
-24dB down @ 75Hz

With a 300Hz crossover point & 18dB/oct slope
-18dB down @ 150Hz
-36dB down @ 75Hz

With a 300Hz crossoer point & 24dB/oct slope
-24dB down @ 150Hz
-48dB down @ 75Hz


----------



## nismos14

I still don't get why the 3.5mm aux in is in the front. Same with the Clarion, why on earth do you put EVERYTHING else in the back except for that POS 3.5mm aux in.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> I still don't get why the 3.5mm aux in is in the front. Same with the Clarion, why on earth do you put EVERYTHING else in the back except for that POS 3.5mm aux in.


I actually like it this way. Easily accessible. Anything that is on the back of the HU (minus USB, as thats the only place they should be allowed) makes it a PITA to get to. For people with a dash surround that has to be removed *me* in order to get the HU out. This is much nicer


----------



## nismos14

I duno, I don't wanna see wires hanging out of the front of my face plate. I would rather route wires into the glove or other cubby with an extension cable. Do it once, during install. Done.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> I duno, I don't wanna see wires hanging out of the front of my face plate. I would rather route wires into the glove or other cubby with an extension cable. Do it once, during install. Done.


For me, the only time I will ever use it is for the mic. Other then that, there will never be anything plugged in there.


----------



## nismos14

I guess that's the only good reason I can think of for it.


----------



## Bayboy

Between SD, USB, & bluetooth, don't really see a need for it other than the mic. Would be nice if it had a rubber plug to keep dust out.


----------



## rton20s

I know they make 3.5mm dust caps/plugs. We can probably come up with something that looks clean enough on the face.


----------



## ErinH

Alright... J&R looks to be out entirely. Am I mistaken?

Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## nismos14

bikinpunk said:


> Alright... J&R looks to be out entirely. Am I mistaken?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


They didn't get any yet.


----------



## ErinH

nismos14 said:


> They didn't get any yet.


Thought they had a different status before even though it wasn't in stock. That's why I was confused. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## nismos14

Things changed a few times on J&R site in terms of price, I'm sure that could have changed a few times. I ordered mine on Feb 19th, I received a notice today that they will receive them soon. I'm not even gonna open mine so I'm not too concerned.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> Things changed a few times on J&R site in terms of price, I'm sure that could have changed a few times. I ordered mine on Feb 19th, I received a notice today that they will receive them soon. I'm not even gonna open mine so I'm not too concerned.


why did you get it then man? resale value in the future???


----------



## nismos14

I was initially going to use it, but decided I wanted to have one to thoroughly test and review. It looks like that will be done well before I even get mine. SO, I'll wait, hold onto it and then give someone a good deal on it in the future. I originally got this and the CZ702 to use while my DNX9960 was at Kenwood for service. I'm still waiting on the 80prs or CZ702 to arrive so I can send it in.

When my CZ702 comes in though, I will use it.


----------



## nismos14

Update - JR just charged my card, this means my order must have shipped _because_:


JR Order Status | JR.com said:


> _*For orders paid using a MasterCard credit card, we only collect funds from your account when we ship your order, for the portion that shipped. For MasterCard Debit cards, banking regulations require that your bank withdraw the money from your account (for the full value of your order) at the time your bank approves the order. Your bank holds this money, and we only collect the funds from your bank when your order ships, for the portion that shipped.*_


----------



## Bayboy

Damn.... so that means you will wind up with two 80prs? What made you decide on the CZ702 over the 80prs?


----------



## rton20s

Interesting. I haven’t received any notification yet. You did order a few weeks before me though. I’m also curious because the sales rep stated the earliest they were expecting them in stock was this Friday. Could have just been a CYA move though.


----------



## nismos14

I guess we'll see.

No I'm just getting one 80prs.


----------



## rodneypierce

Nismos, I was just giving you a hard time brother 

You did talk me into this HU though. Even thought I wouldnt mind checking out the CZ as well....


----------



## nismos14

Haha no worries man! I think I'm looking more forward to the CZ702 then the Pio!


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> Haha no worries man! I think I'm looking more forward to the CZ702 then the Pio!


Gotta stay away from you, my bank account will be empty. You decide to send me one of those Infinity's yet?


----------



## nismos14

Those appear to be sold  I've always got other stuff though! LOL


----------



## Danometal

According to Crutchfield, the Clarion's SNR seems pretty low for a HU @ 80 dbs


----------



## (s)AINT

My 80prs from pacific stereo should be here tomorrow according to my tracking number. I had one on pre order from J&R for a month and never heard anything about them so I ordered from Pac Stereo last week and cancelled J&R today.


Should have it installed by tomorrow night.


----------



## nismos14

My J&R order officially shipped today and I have tracking.


----------



## (s)AINT

You gotta be kidding.

I had it from J&R for $317 with overnight shipping and opted to pay the extra $40.

Oh well , I'll catch a break someday it's only money.


----------



## nismos14

Yea not so big a deal I guess.


----------



## rton20s

Don’t feel too bad about switching your order. I placed my order on 03.06.12 and got a “Backorder Notice” on 03.14.12. I contacted them that day by phone and the sales rep informed me that my order would not be delayed and that everything was still on time. It was a standard email they put out to people on items ordered that they do not have in stock. 

Now Nismos14 has a tracking order and I am still sitting here waiting for an update. I’m anxious to get the head unit, but a few days or even a week isn’t going to make a difference for me. I will thank you though, (s)AINT, as hopefully your cancelled order bumped me up one place in line! I might just give them a call tonight to check the status.


----------



## todd4198

Ordered mine on 2/26 from J&R and got a shipping notice about an hour ago


----------



## nismos14

Mine will be here tomorrow.


----------



## rodneypierce

thursday for me


----------



## John Prock

Hey guys,
this is my first post! I'm getting a DEH-80PRS installed tomorrow in my Smart Brabus. The rest of my system includes a JBL MS-8,(2)Audison LRx 4.5 amps,(1)Audison LRx 2.4 amp,Focal Utopia Be No.6 w/crossblock,and a Focal Utopia 33WX subwoofer.

John


----------



## avanti1960

no offense to anyone, i have always loved pioneer since my first home audio receiver in the 80's but the big door knob on this one would take some serious getting used to.


----------



## rodneypierce

avanti1960 said:


> no offense to anyone, i have always loved pioneer since my first home audio receiver in the 80's but the big door knob on this one would take some serious getting used to.


I thought it was an actual standard rotary knob. Until the picture came out. Thats the only thing Im disappointed about looks wise.


----------



## t3sn4f2

I found an exploded view of the knob if you guys are interested.


----------



## rton20s

Just curious... Why the DEH-80PRS + the MS-8?



John Prock said:


> Hey guys,
> this is my first post! I'm getting a DEH-80PRS installed tomorrow in my Smart Brabus. The rest of my system includes a JBL MS-8,(2)Audison LRx 4.5 amps,(1)Audison LRx 2.4 amp,Focal Utopia Be No.6 w/crossblock,and a Focal Utopia 33WX subwoofer.
> 
> John


----------



## John Prock

rton20s said:


> Just curious... Why the DEH-80PRS + the MS-8?


Cause I have had the MS-8 for a while now with my old deck and I really like it! I'll see how the auto tune works on the DEH-80,but the MS-8 works really good,so i'll just have to see which one works best.The main thing with getting the DEH-80 for me was just getting a better sounding deck.I have been using a Pioneer AVIC Z-3 and I hate how it sounds!


----------



## ZAKOH

John Prock said:


> Cause I have had the MS-8 for a while now with my old deck and I really like it! I'll see how the auto tune works on the DEH-80,but the MS-8 works really good,so i'll just have to see which one works best.The main thing with getting the DEH-80 for me was just getting a better sounding deck.I have been using a Pioneer AVIC Z-3 and I hate how it sounds!



Hey man, you could save me some serious coin if you told me which one works better.

I am wondering about the difference in SQ between 2-way active + sub with DEH-80 vs 2-way active + rear fill + sub with MS-8 and Logic 7.


----------



## John Prock

ZAKOH said:


> Hey man, you could save me some serious coin if you told me which one sounds better.


I'll let you know tomorrow!


----------



## ZAKOH

John Prock said:


> I'll let you know tomorrow!




Take your time. I won't be purchasing anything for a long time..


----------



## todd4198

I'm just double checking, but only the mic for auto t/a and eq comes with it, none for Bluetooth right?


----------



## jtaudioacc

todd4198 said:


> I'm just double checking, but only the mic for auto t/a and eq comes with it, none for Bluetooth right?


I see both in the box I have.


----------



## Porgy

Mine just came in. I don't seem to have the tooling error that has been reported. Unless my blind eyes are just missing it.


----------



## todd4198

jtaudioacc said:


> I see both in the box I have.


Cool thanks. I couldn't tell from the pictures a few pages back & didn't see it in the manual.


----------



## dietDrThunder

Mine is "out for delivery" today....giggity!


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> Mine is "out for delivery" today....giggity!


nice


----------



## nismos14

Yea mine too, who wants it?


----------



## bigugly78cj5

Well for the frist time ever maybe, i opted out of the 80PRS(my system consitests of 4 6.5 coaxs and a sub, in a jeep wrangler) because i did not see the need for the overkill and extra money and went with the DEH-P9400BH....... and that crack next to the 3.5 plug is on its face also. must be something with the whole lot since they use the same face. its a shame because it is pretty annoying on a new unit.


----------



## IBcivic

bigugly78cj5 said:


> Well for the frist time ever maybe, i opted out of the 80PRS(my system consitests of 4 6.5 coaxs and a sub, in a jeep wrangler) because i did not see the need for the overkill and extra money and went with the DEH-P9400BH....... and that crack next to the 3.5 plug is on its face also. must be something with the whole lot since they use the same face. its a shame because it is pretty annoying on a new unit.


After giving it some thought, I'll be doing the same (deh-p9400bh), since having a processing capable h-u , inline with another processor, is illogical.


----------



## QuikWgn

Mine will be in tomorrow. Funny thing is that Crutchfield says 3/29, and my local shop had them in stock the same day J&R shipped mine and offered to match J&R's price less local taxes. Saved the $35 and went with J&R.


----------



## ErinH

bigugly78cj5 said:


> Well for the frist time ever maybe, i opted out of the 80PRS(my system consitests of 4 6.5 coaxs and a sub, in a jeep wrangler) because i did not see the need for the overkill and extra money and went with the DEH-P9400BH....... and that crack next to the 3.5 plug is on its face also. must be something with the whole lot since they use the same face. its a shame because it is pretty annoying on a new unit.


I just looked at that but found the silver on the left side to e a bit ugly. 

I'm actually considering going DD again because I'll be going external dap as well. Decisions decisions. 

I was thinking the 80prs might be in line to the p99 in many regards and thought it would be a great option as a transport and front end controller. The p99 has the best iPod integration of any single din I've messed with this far. Still curious to see if the p99 remote functions in the same manner with the 80prs. 




Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## QuikWgn

Called J&R back and told them I saw it at another dealer for $299 and they just credited $50 back to my card. So I got out of it for $324 shipped 2 day with a 3 year extended warranty.


----------



## Andrius

Bought it on ebay for 399+100 for shipping and I'm still happy 'cause I know that when it comes to Norway on may it's going to cost around 1000...And you are talking about 50 dollars...


----------



## ErinH

For that money I would have been happy to buy it for you from JR and ship it to you. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## darrenforeal

my order from pacific stereo is out for delivery today. sweeet...


----------



## Andrius

It's too late my friend.


----------



## rton20s

Looks like I might just try and see what is available locally. 

I called J&R again since several people are getting shipping confirmations from them. Apparently they only got "limited stock" with their initial order. The CS rep I spoke with could not guarantee a delivery time and just repeated what they had told me on my the last call from the 23rd. They *MIGHT* get more stock Friday or Monday. Even then, she could not guarantee that mine would be one of the orders fulfilled with the additional stock. 

I'll admit, I did get a bit frustrated, and asked her what was the point of my pre-ordering if they were not going to have the stock to fill their orders? If I had placed the order after the site changed the status from pre-order to back order, that would be different.


----------



## sotelomichael

rton20s said:


> Looks like I might just try and see what is available locally.
> 
> I called J&R again since several people are getting shipping confirmations from them. Apparently they only got "limited stock" with their initial order. The CS rep I spoke with could not guarantee a delivery time and just repeated what they had told me on my the last call from the 23rd. They *MIGHT* get more stock Friday or Monday. Even then, she could not guarantee that mine would be one of the orders fulfilled with the additional stock.
> 
> I'll admit, I did get a bit frustrated, and asked her what was the point of my pre-ordering if they were not going to have the stock to fill their orders? If I had placed the order after the site changed the status from pre-order to back order, that would be different.


Hey bud, I canceled my order with Jr yesterday, talked with Pacific stereo got them to price match 299.95 w/ free shipping, by 5 pm central time I had a tracking number showing departure scan. gl


----------



## rodneypierce

rton20s said:


> Looks like I might just try and see what is available locally.
> 
> I called J&R again since several people are getting shipping confirmations from them. Apparently they only got "limited stock" with their initial order. The CS rep I spoke with could not guarantee a delivery time and just repeated what they had told me on my the last call from the 23rd. They *MIGHT* get more stock Friday or Monday. Even then, she could not guarantee that mine would be one of the orders fulfilled with the additional stock.
> 
> I'll admit, I did get a bit frustrated, and asked her what was the point of my pre-ordering if they were not going to have the stock to fill their orders? If I had placed the order after the site changed the status from pre-order to back order, that would be different.


pacificstereo.com


----------



## QuikWgn

March 27, 2012

Dear XXXX X XXXXXXXXX,

We are pleased to tell you that the following items of yours have been shipped:

Order Number: XXXXXXXX
Shipping Method: UPS 2nd Day Air
Tracking Number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Qty Model Product Description 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 PIO DEH80PRS PIONEER CD DSP BLUETOOTH AND HD RADIO
1 WAR RMELE2U500 Repair Master RMELE3U500 3-Year Electronics Warranty Service Plan




If you've ordered other items, you'll receive an email like this after each shipment.



To view your entire order, please visit the Order Status section of our website at Order Status | JR.com


----------



## rton20s

Yeah, I know all about Pacific. My only concern with them is warranty. I know people were worried about J&R, but I know they are an authorized online vendor whereas Pacific is not. With this unit just being released, I would prefer not to be at risk going unauthorized. 

I’ll probably stick with trying local first. If that doesn’t work out, I’ll run down the list of online vendors.


----------



## Andrius

It looks like big forum of *****'s down here.witch can afford nothing,but they still,do something('cause of there dinner founds....and they talk about 19.99 all the day....)100 dollars is worth nothing,so stop being crying like 14 year old....


----------



## nismos14

Andrius said:


> It looks like big forum of *****'s down here.witch can afford nothing,but they still,do something('cause of there dinner founds....and they talk about 19.99 all the day....)100 dollars is worth nothing,so stop being crying like 14 year old....


I don't know what's going on here........... :surprised:


----------



## spl152db

nismos14 said:


> I don't know what's going on here........... :surprised:


sounds like we need to ask this guy for $100 bucks because to him its nothing and doesn't buy anything. god forbid it buys a month and half of food. or gets me to work with gas for almost 2 months. also forget that it can put a whole new wardrobe in my closet. whatever. I can afford whatever I want, but there are things with higher priority than this cd player.


----------



## rton20s

Andrius said:


> It looks like big forum of *****'s down here.witch can afford nothing,but they still,do something('cause of there dinner founds....and they talk about 19.99 all the day....)100 dollars is worth nothing,so stop being crying like 14 year old....


Welcome to DIYMA. Thanks for your constructive criticism.


----------



## nismos14

I don't always throw away 100 bucks, but when I do, I do it in a miscommunicated weird way.


----------



## Bayboy

Damn.... what's that dude's problem?! WOW!


----------



## nismos14

Maybe that he misconstrues what we're saying. I think some people are unhappy with the wait time, but he thinks they are complaining about the price.


----------



## Bayboy

Well, either way some may be justified, but the name calling could have been reserved.


----------



## rodneypierce

Bayboy said:


> Well, either way some may be justified, but the name calling could have been reserved.


none of that was justified. I think hes way off in left field. Oh well, give him his own play area, he clearly doesnt play well with others.


----------



## nismos14

Just got it, this thing is pretty nice looking. The face feels a lot cheaper than previous models 800 and 880prs.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> Just got it, this thing is pretty nice looking. The face feels a lot cheaper than previous models 800 and 880prs.


I thought you wernt opening the box.


----------



## hornedfrog2000

nismos14 said:


> I don't always throw away 100 bucks, but when I do, I do it in a miscommunicated weird way.


Pretty easy to spot the uneducated drug dealers. No offense to you educated drug dealers.


----------



## nismos14

Me too, temptation


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> Me too, temptation


LoL, thats awesome.


----------



## John Prock

Got mine installed today! It's KILLER!!!! We actually ran it without the MS-8 and it sounds real good.My installer wants me to play with it for a month or so then maybe try it with the MS-8.It sounds more in your face than AVIC-Z3with the MS-8,yet I think the sound stage may be a little better with the MS-8,yet to me it also doesn't sound as processed or colored.My sub came alive,which was one of the things that I was disappointed with when using the MS-8. I haven't had much time to tweek it,but so far i'm really pleased!

John


----------



## Bayboy

So far so good with our first review! Do tell more if you will.... what adjustments were made since you have installed it?


----------



## nismos14

John Prock said:


> Got mine installed today! It's KILLER!!!! We actually ran it without the MS-8 and it sounds real good.My installer wants me to play with it for a month or so then maybe try it with the MS-8.It sounds more in your face than AVIC-Z3with the MS-8,yet I think the sound stage may be a little better with the MS-8,yet to me it also doesn't sound as processed or colored.My sub came alive,which was one of the things that I was disappointed with when using the MS-8. I haven't had much time to tweek it,but so far i'm really pleased!
> 
> John


No more hollowness like you had with the MS8, eh?


----------



## rodneypierce

John Prock said:


> Got mine installed today! It's KILLER!!!! We actually ran it without the MS-8 and it sounds real good.My installer wants me to play with it for a month or so then maybe try it with the MS-8.It sounds more in your face than AVIC-Z3with the MS-8,yet I think the sound stage may be a little better with the MS-8,yet to me it also doesn't sound as processed or colored.My sub came alive,which was one of the things that I was disappointed with when using the MS-8. I haven't had much time to tweek it,but so far i'm really pleased!
> 
> John


sweet! Keep us posted as you mess around with it more. What changes did you make? Did you just autotune? Or no tuning at all?


----------



## chadclay502

Just got mine in Louisville ky. Paid $329.99 plus tax .. got it at discount audio , a local car audio shop. I was told they received two today and I got one. Mine also has the small scratch on it by the 3.5 mm plug...


----------



## nismos14

Mine has that little scratch too.


----------



## Techie

For those who received their units already, is there a iPod cable included? Thought I saw a pic with just a USB extension cable included.


----------



## Porgy

Techie said:


> For those who received their units already, is there a iPod cable included? Thought I saw a pic with just a USB extension cable included.


No. Theres a USB extension cable, a BT mic, and the tuning mic.


----------



## Techie

I'm curious about this item: Pioneer iPod cable

CD-IU51 - iPod®/iPhone® USB Interface Cable for CD Receivers with High Current USB Port (Audio) | Pioneer Electronics USA


Is there any reason a standard iPod cable wouldn't work? $30 for Pioneer's cable seems a bit steep. Looking for cheaper alternatives if possible. On the other hand, the Pioneer cable does look pretty rugged.


----------



## chadclay502

To the ones that have there's, did yours come with a operation manual in paper form? Or do you use the disc on your pc , remember what you read and then run to your car and program it the best you can .... Was thinking maybe the guy at the local shop took it out to read.


----------



## Porgy

chadclay502 said:


> To the ones that have there's, did yours come with a operation manual in paper form? Or do you use the disc on your pc , remember what you read and then run to your car and program it the best you can .... Was thinking maybe the guy at the local shop took it out to read.


There is a paper quick install guide and owners manual but it is very abridged. The full manual is cd with a pdf on it. Just print all relevant pages out that you will need with you in the car. If you have a smart phone put the pdf on there.


----------



## jtaudioacc

Techie said:


> I'm curious about this item: Pioneer iPod cable
> 
> CD-IU51 - iPod®/iPhone® USB Interface Cable for CD Receivers with High Current USB Port (Audio) | Pioneer Electronics USA
> 
> 
> Is there any reason a standard iPod cable wouldn't work? $30 for Pioneer's cable seems a bit steep. Looking for cheaper alternatives if possible. On the other hand, the Pioneer cable does look pretty rugged.


I use a cheapy on my P99. Never had a problem with any Pioneer accepting any standard cable. Save your money.


----------



## chadclay502

That's what I will do then, print up a manual. So I can have something to read why i am learning to use this bad boy!! Have not installed it yet and have been obsessing over it since I bought it today..


----------



## chadclay502

I LOVE IT!! Can't wait to put it in tomorrow morning..


----------



## darrenforeal

Just got mine too. Looks pretty sweet and most importantly will do the job.



nismos14 said:


> Just got it, this thing is pretty nice looking. The face feels a lot cheaper than previous models 800 and 880prs.


i kinda agree about the face. But it isn't that bad


----------



## CrossFired

spl152db said:


> sounds like we need to ask this guy for $100 bucks because to him its nothing and doesn't buy anything. god forbid it buys a month and half of food.


Or a couple of lap dances


----------



## CrossFired

nismos14 said:


> Just got it, this thing is pretty nice looking. The face feels a lot cheaper than previous models 800 and 880prs.


Now that it's used, will you take $200. for it?


----------



## CrossFired

John Prock said:


> Got mine installed today! It's KILLER!!!! We actually ran it without the MS-8 and it sounds real good.My installer wants me to play with it for a month or so then maybe try it with the MS-8.It sounds more in your face than AVIC-Z3with the MS-8,yet I think the sound stage may be a little better with the MS-8,yet to me it also doesn't sound as processed or colored.My sub came alive,which was one of the things that I was disappointed with when using the MS-8. I haven't had much time to tweek it,but so far i'm really pleased!
> 
> John


Did you shoot it in with the mic?


----------



## nismos14

CrossFired said:


> Now that it's used, will you take $200. for it?


Buahahaha.


Looks like Pioneer cut some costs on the packaging? Lol It feels like a brown paper back vs. the old gloss printed boxes they used to come in.


----------



## JAX

nismos14 said:


> Just got it, this thing is pretty nice looking. The face feels a lot cheaper than previous models 800 and 880prs.



that was exactly what I was getting at when I compared the pics of the 80 to my experience with the 800/880 .

to me it looked like it was going to be "cheaper"


----------



## nismos14

Yep it's easy to see where they may have cut costs.

Build materials for the faceplate are so so, I'm happy to see no motorized face as they would go bad often on previous models. Cheap box, cheap faceplate, but they added a lot of features that the 880/800 were missing. SO, in reality I think they gave up some things but added others and still came in at a better price point. 

+'s - USB, no no, DUAL USB!, Bluetooth, APPs, built in ipod capabilities, same active crossover abilities. I think the pro's out weigh the cons vs the old units.


----------



## Bayboy

Gotta keep in mind it's never easy to cut costs & add features while keeping a profit margin intact. Some things must get sacrificed, but quality & durability must remain else it's a flop. So far it's looking good with minor quirks and Pioneer has always been up to par in the durability department. When the Clarion finally jumps off, we shall see it's net worth as well.


----------



## nismos14

I think I'm more interested in the clarion.


----------



## Bayboy

You must know something we don't know.... hmmmm.


----------



## nismos14

More interested in seeing it. I am anxious for a deck with the capabilities of the 775/785 usb without the slideface crap.


----------



## Bayboy

Anything you anticipate that will be better than the 80prs? I'm stuck deciding on a new HU, MS-8, or stick with the DQX. All weigh heavily in my decision on amps, drivers & placement. Right now I can't seem to make headway.


----------



## nismos14

Bayboy said:


> Anything you anticipate that will be better than the 80prs? I'm stuck deciding on a new HU, MS-8, or stick with the DQX. All weigh heavily in my decision on amps, drivers & placement. Right now I can't seem to make headway.


1) value
2) bandpass on low output
3) more versatile crossovers
4) futuristic movie looks
5) dual look-a-like
6) HOPEFULLY quality of faceplate construction though I'm not too concerned about that


----------



## Bayboy

I'll give you credit on 1, 2, 3 & 6, but 4 &5.... that's just wrong! LOL


----------



## nismos14




----------



## dietDrThunder

Techie said:


> I'm curious about this item: Pioneer iPod cable
> 
> CD-IU51 - iPod®/iPhone® USB Interface Cable for CD Receivers with High Current USB Port (Audio) | Pioneer Electronics USA
> 
> 
> Is there any reason a standard iPod cable wouldn't work? $30 for Pioneer's cable seems a bit steep. Looking for cheaper alternatives if possible. On the other hand, the Pioneer cable does look pretty rugged.


I _think_ the Pioneer cable is only required if you're using both USB inputs. I don't know why that is, but I'm pretty sure the manual reads something like "If you are using the USB1 and USB2 inputs at the same time, use the included cable and the Pioneer bigbux-1000 cable." I may not have the model of the Pioneer cable right. 

Not sure why this would be, but that's what it says.


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> I _think_ the Pioneer cable is only required if you're using both USB inputs. I don't know why that is, but I'm pretty sure the manual reads something like "If you are using the USB1 and USB2 inputs at the same time, use the included cable and the Pioneer bigbux-1000 cable." I may not have the model of the Pioneer cable right.
> 
> Not sure why this would be, but that's what it says.


Hey Thunder, did you get yours installed last night?


----------



## Porgy

Mines installed already, looks clean. Haven't had a chance to run the T/A and such but just playing with the preconfig position selector yielded out the gate better imaging than my old deck. BT hookup was a snap and streamed spotify to it. I have an external 500gb portable drive somewhere in the office Im going to load up with music to see if it recognizes in NTFS, if not reformat to FAT and see if that works.


----------



## nismos14

Was the streaming controlled through the deck?


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> Hey Thunder, did you get yours installed last night?


I did. I did not have time to learn the unit enough to feel confident in using the auto tune stuff, and I've never used ta or a stereo eq in a car before...so, I just left the eq flat, and set the xovers to a close approximation of what I had before.

I was very impressed. It was kinda honky as to be expected, as my prev. install needed a fairly wide band midrange cut. the sub stage sounded _way_ better than before. It was tighter, more musical, and louder all at the same time. I have no explanation for this other than the xovers must be of better quality than the ones built into my inexpensive amps. I am even still using the 12db slopes to mimic the prev. system. I did it this way to get an apples-to-apples as much as I could.

Ok, screw the apples  Today at lunch I ran the auto tune stuff...and now I have a center in my soundstage! Wahoo!

The general sound after the auto-tune (ta and eq) is pretty impressive for being automatically done, but it definitely needs work in the eq dept. I am going to use the auto-tune settings as a base line, and work off of it. The levels ended up a bit wacky...it cut the sub as much as it could (-24db) for some reason, rendering it inaudible. Also, it didn't like my relative levels between my tweeters and my mids, cutting the mids quite a bit to bring the tweeters forward, and they sound as bit too forward to me now.

I think I'm going to do some gain tuning on the amps, then run it again and see if it ends up different.

cliffs: I dig it. When I get better with the tune I am very confident that this will be a large improvement in my system.

BTW some of the ways the menus work may be difficult for people who aren't accustomed to highly flexible head units (like me) so if you have any questions post up and I'm happy to help if I can. I am proficient with the menus, but I am a noob when it comes to advanced tuning/ta/stereo eq, so I won't be helpful there. I can explain navigating the options though.


----------



## beef316

just saw 1 on craigslist at a local dealer for 279. I'm thinking about getting one to play with

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

Porgy said:


> Mines installed already, looks clean. Haven't had a chance to run the T/A and such but just playing with the preconfig position selector yielded out the gate better imaging than my old deck. BT hookup was a snap and streamed spotify to it. * I have an external 500gb portable drive somewhere in the office Im going to load up with music to see if it recognizes in NTFS, if not reformat to FAT and see if that works*.


In case it's needed or just a general FYI.........Post #103 in the following link might hold some useful info.

Operation: Stealth Bomber. 2004 Tahoe Z71. - Page 11


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> I did. I did not have time to learn the unit enough to feel confident in using the auto tune stuff, and I've never used ta or a stereo eq in a car before...so, I just left the eq flat, and set the xovers to a close approximation of what I had before.
> 
> I was very impressed. It was kinda honky as to be expected, as my prev. install needed a fairly wide band midrange cut. the sub stage sounded _way_ better than before. It was tighter, more musical, and louder all at the same time. I have no explanation for this other than the xovers must be of better quality than the ones built into my inexpensive amps. I am even still using the 12db slopes to mimic the prev. system. I did it this way to get an apples-to-apples as much as I could.
> 
> Ok, screw the apples  Today at lunch I ran the auto tune stuff...and now I have a center in my soundstage! Wahoo!
> 
> The general sound after the auto-tune (ta and eq) is pretty impressive for being automatically done, but it definitely needs work in the eq dept. I am going to use the auto-tune settings as a base line, and work off of it. The levels ended up a bit wacky...it cut the sub as much as it could (-24db) for some reason, rendering it inaudible. Also, it didn't like my relative levels between my tweeters and my mids, cutting the mids quite a bit to bring the tweeters forward, and they sound as bit too forward to me now.
> 
> I think I'm going to do some gain tuning on the amps, then run it again and see if it ends up different.
> 
> cliffs: I dig it. When I get better with the tune I am very confident that this will be a large improvement in my system.
> 
> BTW some of the ways the menus work may be difficult for people who aren't accustomed to highly flexible head units (like me) so if you have any questions post up and I'm happy to help if I can. I am proficient with the menus, but I am a noob when it comes to advanced tuning/ta/stereo eq, so I won't be helpful there. I can explain navigating the options though.


SWEET! Mine just got delivered, so I will be messing with it here tonight as well!

Thanks for the review man!!


----------



## Porgy

nismos14 said:


> Was the streaming controlled through the deck?


Only in terms of going forward and backward through the tracklist. I have to switch between playlists manually through the phone.


----------



## Porgy

t3sn4f2 said:


> In case it's needed or just a general FYI.........Post #103 in the following link might hold some useful info.
> 
> Operation: Stealth Bomber. 2004 Tahoe Z71. - Page 11


Excellent! I totally forgot about windows issues with formatting FAT32. Thumbs up for that link.


----------



## Bayboy

What about the program you can download to categorize your music files? Is that on a flash drive as well or just the ipod?


----------



## t3sn4f2

Bayboy said:


> What about the program you can download to categorize your music files? Is that on a flash drive as well or just the ipod?


IF your files are tagged correctly, you can import to itunes with the "keep my files organized" AND "the copies to my itunes dir" preferences temporarily enabled. That'll create the folders and label them in the format that the head unit can understand, display, and sort. I would test a few albums out just to be sure though.


----------



## Porgy

Unfamiliar with that. It recognizes folders on a flash drive just as a computer does. Thats always been enough organization for me.

edit: I am completely unfamiliar with ipods/itunes and how it organizes music.


----------



## rton20s

J&R has put a “hold” back into my account with the charge scheduled to come out on 04.01.12. So either they’re expecting their next shipments to go out early next week, or they’re playing a very cruel April Fools’ joke.


----------



## Vermonster

Pardon the noob question.

Crutchfield, which now has these in stock, is saying this unit will not fit my 2003 Tacoma which has a double DIN factor radio in place. Advisor said:

_That model will just mount with the din sleeve, and for your install you have to mount with the brackets used on the factory radio. So to install that radio you would be looking at a custom install to modify the unit to work with your mounting brackets_

How is this any different from most units that mount via DIN sleeve. Won't I just use a mounting kit (like the Metra 99-8101) and either fill the other half of the double DIN space with either a separately purchased pocket or spacer?

Anyone have thoughts?

Thanks.
VT


----------



## duro78

This deck is nothing short of amazing

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## gmore

J&R ship notice with tracking, Woo-Hoo!


----------



## Techie

gmore said:


> J&R ship notice with tracking, Woo-Hoo!


Just got my shipping notification from them too! Can't wait.


----------



## rodneypierce

well, got mine installed, and doing the auto tune now. So far, it sounds worse to me unadjusted then my CD7200MKII did. The CD7200 had more all around depth of sound when both were "flat". I will see what the Auto EQ gets me, and tweak from there.

Definitely a different sound. But I think that the unit itself is very nice. Its not too hard to navigate or figure things out.


----------



## rton20s

gmore said:


> J&R ship notice with tracking, Woo-Hoo!





Techie said:


> Just got my shipping notification from them too! Can't wait.


Do you guys know what date you placed you order? Curious how far behind you guys I was.


----------



## gmore

rton20s said:


> Do you guys know what date you placed you order? Curious how far behind you guys I was.


3/18


----------



## rton20s

3/18 and not 2/18? If so, that is a bit frustrating, considering I ordered on 3/6. It might be time to place a call directly to the guy who I spoke, Terrence, when I bought the head unit.


----------



## gmore

rton20s said:


> 3/18 and not 2/18? If so, that is a bit frustrating, considering I ordered on 3/6. It might be time to place a call directly to the guy who I spoke, Terrence, when I bought the head unit.


I called CS about 2-3 hours ago and they said it would process tomorrow, maybe tonight...got it tonight. 
Maybe worth a call to CS..


----------



## nismos14

rodneypierce said:


> well, got mine installed, and doing the auto tune now. So far, it sounds worse to me unadjusted then my CD7200MKII did. The CD7200 had more all around depth of sound when both were "flat". I will see what the Auto EQ gets me, and tweak from there.
> 
> Definitely a different sound. But I think that the unit itself is very nice. Its not too hard to navigate or figure things out.


You're gonna kill me aren't you? :worried::surprised::blush:


----------



## dietDrThunder

Vermonster said:


> Pardon the noob question.
> 
> Crutchfield, which now has these in stock, is saying this unit will not fit my 2003 Tacoma which has a double DIN factor radio in place. Advisor said:
> 
> _That model will just mount with the din sleeve, and for your install you have to mount with the brackets used on the factory radio. So to install that radio you would be looking at a custom install to modify the unit to work with your mounting brackets_
> 
> How is this any different from most units that mount via DIN sleeve. Won't I just use a mounting kit (like the Metra 99-8101) and either fill the other half of the double DIN space with either a separately purchased pocket or spacer?
> 
> Anyone have thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.
> VT


Hey, any of you guys got any help for this dude? I don't know the answer but somebody here does.


----------



## Bayboy

rodneypierce said:


> well, got mine installed, and doing the auto tune now. So far, it sounds worse to me unadjusted then my CD7200MKII did. The CD7200 had more all around depth of sound when both were "flat". I will see what the Auto EQ gets me, and tweak from there.
> 
> Definitely a different sound. But I think that the unit itself is very nice. Its not too hard to navigate or figure things out.



Is this on the same system with similar xover points? Can you describe in detail how it differs? Someone (can't remember who) stated on the JVC KD-SH1000 that there was a quite annoying timbre to it. Sounds decent to me, but it does seem to have a frequency that is hard to reduce. With only a 9 band EQ, it could be something that can't be cut out. I haven't played with the parametric yet, so I can't speak on that too much. That is something that scares me when dropping below a 31 band (lesser fine tuning). Sometimes the approximate frequency you need to cut just isn't available.


----------



## JAX

Vermonster said:


> Pardon the noob question.
> 
> Crutchfield, which now has these in stock, is saying this unit will not fit my 2003 Tacoma which has a double DIN factor radio in place. Advisor said:
> 
> _That model will just mount with the din sleeve, and for your install you have to mount with the brackets used on the factory radio. So to install that radio you would be looking at a custom install to modify the unit to work with your mounting brackets_
> 
> How is this any different from most units that mount via DIN sleeve. Won't I just use a mounting kit (like the Metra 99-8101) and either fill the other half of the double DIN space with either a separately purchased pocket or spacer?
> 
> Anyone have thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.
> VT



have your tried another source for the unit that has a vehicle fit guide to see if they say different?

I would say try sonic but not sure they have it.

I know crutch said my deck would not fit but all I had to do was cut a small piece of plastic in my dash so it would sit in farther.

I dont know what the reason is for yours to not fit.

my last toyota fit my deck fine using the factory brackets of the car.

it was not the same as your truck so I cant help specifically.

I am sure someone here may have an answer.


----------



## Bayboy

Vermonster said:


> Pardon the noob question.
> 
> Crutchfield, which now has these in stock, is saying this unit will not fit my 2003 Tacoma which has a double DIN factor radio in place. Advisor said:
> 
> _That model will just mount with the din sleeve, and for your install you have to mount with the brackets used on the factory radio. So to install that radio you would be looking at a custom install to modify the unit to work with your mounting brackets_
> 
> How is this any different from most units that mount via DIN sleeve. Won't I just use a mounting kit (like the Metra 99-8101) and either fill the other half of the double DIN space with either a separately purchased pocket or spacer?
> 
> Anyone have thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> VT




That is something you may have to get in there and investigate for yourself. Crutchfield is not too fond of taking liability in modifications as they do in-depth homework on fitment issues. They are pretty much a plug & play w/ a stock look company so they may not go as far as your brick & mortar shops that will mod. There's almost always a way to make things fit, but how far you will have to go & how it will look may be another thing to consider.

If you are patient enough I would wait for the Clarion to come out to compare. It may not have as bad an issue as the 80prs. I don't believe the 80prs will be limited in availability that soon so you should have decent enough time to decide.


----------



## nismos14

Check what other HU's crutchfield says fits, if any are single dins, then you're golden.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Bayboy said:


> Is this on the same system with similar xover points? Can you describe in detail how it differs? Someone (can't remember who) stated on the JVC KD-SH1000 that there was a quite annoying timbre to it. Sounds decent to me, but it does seem to have a frequency that is hard to reduce. With only a 9 band EQ, it could be something that can't be cut out. I haven't played with the parametric yet, so I can't speak on that too much. That is something that scares me when dropping below a 31 band (lesser fine tuning). Sometimes that exact frequency you need to cut just isn't available.


I don't see how subtle nuances like "depth" can be evaluated on a speaker setup that has no other tuning other than crossover and maybe TA? Am I missing something here or is this a typical sighted biased review opinion (no offense to rodneypierce )

Now if someone wants to compare these on a home setup, defeat everything, and connect it to a double blind switching device......then, I'm all ears.


----------



## rton20s

gmore said:


> I called CS about 2-3 hours ago and they said it would process tomorrow, maybe tonight...got it tonight.
> Maybe worth a call to CS..


Just a I was about to make my call, my phone gave me an email notification. Sure enough, I got a tracking number from J&R. It won't be here until Wednesday, but I wouldn't have time to mess with it before next weekend anyway, I suppose.


----------



## nismos14

Weird man, you ordered 12 days before me and will get it 8 days after me.


----------



## rodneypierce

Nismo, your safe brother 

Im not going to lie, it helps if you have your channels hooked up correctly when set to active. I had the high and mid channels reversed :blush:

Fixed that, and it still sounded much "different". I cant really desribe it other then the music WHEN FLAT from the CD7200 was a lot fuller sounding. Everything was more defined with the CD7200.

NOW, after the Auto EQ and TA, and some fine adjustments to crossover points and slopes, we are back in business. (I ended up at the same crossover points and slopes I had on the CD7200. I didnt like where it had my mid high pass set at, it was too low for my liking to play as clean as I like it to, so had to bump it up from 100 to 125hz, and change the slope from 12 to 24db and it was golden. Also changed the sub from the auto ta setting of 63hz, up to 100hz, 24db slope. Also turned the gain back up, as it cut the bass out almost completely from the sub channel. other then that, everything else was spot on!)

I will say the 80PRS seems to now have crisper highs, and a better blend of every instrument after the auto EQ and TA. Much better then the CD7200 auto tune had. MUCH MUCH better.

Overall Im very happy with it! It surely has "Audiophile" sound and you can hear EVERYTHING crisp and clear. Almost stunning.

No disappointment in getting rid of the CD7200MKII for this unit 

I would do it all over again if I had the chance. Nismo, thanks brother for convincing me to give this one a try! She is a winner for sure.

(Bayboy, hopefully this answered your question. I wouldnt be worried much about the lack of 31 bands. I think there is still plenty here, and it appears to blend everything very nicely. If I dare say, I think the crossover network MAY be a hair above what the CD7200 was in terms of how nice everything comes together)


ALSO, what sort of video review were you guys looking for? Just basic rundown of the menu structure, or?? Ill go put one together here quick for you guys if you let me know what exactly you are wanting.


----------



## Techie

rton20s said:


> Do you guys know what date you placed you order? Curious how far behind you guys I was.


Order placed 3/4


----------



## nismos14

rodneypierce said:


> Nismo, your safe brother
> 
> Im not going to lie, it helps if you have your channels hooked up correctly when set to active. I had the high and mid channels reversed :blush:
> 
> Fixed that, and it still sounded much "different". I cant really desribe it other then the music WHEN FLAT from the CD7200 was a lot fuller sounding. Everything was more defined with the CD7200.
> 
> NOW, after the Auto EQ and TA, and some fine adjustments to crossover points and slopes, we are back in business. (I ended up at the same crossover points and slopes I had on the CD7200. I didnt like where it had my mid high pass set at, it was too low for my liking to play as clean as I like it to, so had to bump it up from 100 to 125hz, and change the slope from 12 to 24db and it was golden. Also changed the sub from the auto ta setting of 63hz, up to 100hz, 24db slope. Also turned the gain back up, as it cut the bass out almost completely from the sub channel. other then that, everything else was spot on!)
> 
> I will say the 80PRS seems to now have crisper highs, and a better blend of every instrument after the auto EQ and TA. Much better then the CD7200 auto tune had. MUCH MUCH better.
> 
> Overall Im very happy with it! It surely has "Audiophile" sound and you can hear EVERYTHING crisp and clear. Almost stunning.
> 
> No disappointment in getting rid of the CD7200MKII for this unit
> 
> I would do it all over again if I had the chance. Nismo, thanks brother for convincing me to give this one a try! She is a winner for sure.
> 
> (Bayboy, hopefully this answered your question. I wouldnt be worried much about the lack of 31 bands. I think there is still plenty here, and it appears to blend everything very nicely. If I dare say, I think the crossover network MAY be a hair above what the CD7200 was in terms of how nice everything comes together)



Right on!!!!


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> Nismo, your safe brother
> 
> Im not going to lie, it helps if you have your channels hooked up correctly when set to active. I had the high and mid channels reversed :blush:


I did the same thing. Maybe they're labeled backwards or in a non-obvious manner.



> Fixed that, and it still sounded much "different". I cant really desribe it other then the music WHEN FLAT from the CD7200 was a lot fuller sounding. Everything was more defined with the CD7200.
> 
> NOW, after the Auto EQ and TA, and some fine adjustments to crossover points and slopes, we are back in business. (I ended up at the same crossover points and slopes I had on the CD7200. I didnt like where it had my mid high pass set at, it was too low for my liking to play as clean as I like it to, so had to bump it up from 100 to 125hz, and change the slope from 12 to 24db and it was golden. Also changed the sub from the auto ta setting of 63hz, up to 100hz, 24db slope. Also turned the gain back up, as it cut the bass out almost completely from the sub channel. other then that, everything else was spot on!)


Interesting...it also changed MY sub to 63Hz, AND dut it all the way (-24db)



> I will say the 80PRS seems to now have crisper highs, and a better blend of every instrument after the auto EQ and TA. Much better then the CD7200 auto tune had. MUCH MUCH better.
> 
> Overall Im very happy with it! It surely has "Audiophile" sound and you can hear EVERYTHING crisp and clear. Almost stunning.
> 
> No disappointment in getting rid of the CD7200MKII for this unit


I got rid of a $185 hu w/ no ta or stereo eq, so I was pretty sure I wouldn't miss it, and I don't


----------



## ramonesfan

Got wood from reading the early reviews.......Crutchfield sent notification that my label has printed but no ship/arrival date yet. I'm a relative noob jumping into my first real SQ HU so I may ask for some help getting this puppy set-up.


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> I did the same thing. Maybe they're labeled backwards or in a non-obvious manner.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting...it also changed MY sub to 63Hz, AND dut it all the way (-24db)
> 
> 
> 
> I got rid of a $185 hu w/ no ta or stereo eq, so I was pretty sure I wouldn't miss it, and I don't


I think they do have them labeled backwards, as I was pretty careful to label the RCA's with different colored tape. And I noticed on the back of the HU, they arent labeled in the standard (f) (r) (s). Instead its (r) (f) (s). So who knows?

It didnt reduce my sub that far, but I only have a single 10. It had it at -8, and I put it up to +6.

Something I would like someone to check on though, if at all possible. Someone who has an o-scope, can you hook this up and find out when it starts to clip? Im thinking it starts to clip over 60 (goes to 62). But it sure would be nice to know where its at, for those of us that like it LOUD.


----------



## chadclay502

I hooked up my zune to usb#1 did not work, so had to plug it up to 3.5mm jack. Do you guys think it might work on usb#2 don't care about the deck controlling the zune, was just wondering if I will get better sound on usb..


----------



## Techie

ramonesfan said:


> I'm a relative noob jumping into my first real SQ HU so I may ask for some help getting this puppy set-up.


I'm with ya there. Haven't ran a nice HU or active setup yet. Will be interesting setting it up.


----------



## t3sn4f2

chadclay502 said:


> I hooked up my zune to usb#1 did not work, so had to plug it up to 3.5mm jack. Do you guys think it might work on usb#2 don't care about the deck controlling the zune, was just wondering if I will get better sound on usb..


Both USB ports will act the same way. Are you using Zune subscription music by any chance? Or is there a setting on the Zune that make the USB interface act as a mass storage device, Sansa has that option.


----------



## jtaudioacc

rodneypierce said:


> I think they do have them labeled backwards, as I was pretty careful to label the RCA's with different colored tape. And I noticed on the back of the HU, they arent labeled in the standard (f) (r) (s). Instead its (r) (f) (s). So who knows?
> 
> It didnt reduce my sub that far, but I only have a single 10. It had it at -8, and I put it up to +6.
> 
> Something I would like someone to check on though, if at all possible. Someone who has an o-scope, can you hook this up and find out when it starts to clip? Im thinking it starts to clip over 60 (goes to 62). But it sure would be nice to know where its at, for those of us that like it LOUD.


Maybe someone at the meet next week will have one and I can check it for you, but, the P99 doesn't clip at 62...at least at 1k. It will clip I think at 57-58 if you have the SLA at +4.

I'll report back if I wire the one I have up, or get to one that's installed.


----------



## chadclay502

I'm just useing the zune for a mp3 player no music pass just songs l down loaded .. I did run it threw the pioneer cable it came with.. what if i just use the zune cable to the usb port on the back?


----------



## CrossFired

rton20s said:


> Do you guys know what date you placed you order? Curious how far behind you guys I was.


March 10th, and got the track # today(J&R).


----------



## t3sn4f2

chadclay502 said:


> I'm just useing the zune for a mp3 player no music pass just songs l down loaded .. I did run it threw the pioneer cable it came with.. what if i just use the zune cable to the usb port on the back?


Don't think that will work. Looks like that device is only compatible with head units that are made for Zune devices. Like apple idevices, they only work when the head unit supports them. But they don't work as a virtual thumb or hard drives. The device would need to be able to be put into "MSC" mode in order to be read.

How To Download Music To An MP3 Player - Music Education Magic | Computers


----------



## nismos14

SO is the R (top RCA) for midbass?


----------



## rodneypierce

Alright guys, Im uploading about a 6 minute video rundown of the unit here. Its going to take a while, as its over 700mb. Probably another hour or so. As soon as its uploaded, I will post it up here.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> SO is the R (top RCA) for midbass?


Bro, Im going to let someone else answer this, as Im not going to pull the HU back out to double check and make sure i didnt label my RCA's backwards. 

So, maybe someone can check that when they are installing there's. I had the entire unit installed and the dash all buttoned back up when I realized it. So i went back to the trunk and just switched them at the amp.


----------



## CrossFired

My 880 needs the front rcs's to mid, the rear to tweets.

Can you usb a hard drive? See if/how it works? as in speed and ease of use?


Thanks.



rodneypierce said:


> Nismo, your safe brother
> 
> Im not going to lie, it helps if you have your channels hooked up correctly when set to active. I had the high and mid channels reversed :blush:
> 
> Fixed that, and it still sounded much "different". I cant really desribe it other then the music WHEN FLAT from the CD7200 was a lot fuller sounding. Everything was more defined with the CD7200.
> 
> NOW, after the Auto EQ and TA, and some fine adjustments to crossover points and slopes, we are back in business. (I ended up at the same crossover points and slopes I had on the CD7200. I didnt like where it had my mid high pass set at, it was too low for my liking to play as clean as I like it to, so had to bump it up from 100 to 125hz, and change the slope from 12 to 24db and it was golden. Also changed the sub from the auto ta setting of 63hz, up to 100hz, 24db slope. Also turned the gain back up, as it cut the bass out almost completely from the sub channel. other then that, everything else was spot on!)
> 
> I will say the 80PRS seems to now have crisper highs, and a better blend of every instrument after the auto EQ and TA. Much better then the CD7200 auto tune had. MUCH MUCH better.
> 
> Overall Im very happy with it! It surely has "Audiophile" sound and you can hear EVERYTHING crisp and clear. Almost stunning.
> 
> No disappointment in getting rid of the CD7200MKII for this unit
> 
> I would do it all over again if I had the chance. Nismo, thanks brother for convincing me to give this one a try! She is a winner for sure.
> 
> (Bayboy, hopefully this answered your question. I wouldnt be worried much about the lack of 31 bands. I think there is still plenty here, and it appears to blend everything very nicely. If I dare say, I think the crossover network MAY be a hair above what the CD7200 was in terms of how nice everything comes together)
> 
> 
> ALSO, what sort of video review were you guys looking for? Just basic rundown of the menu structure, or?? Ill go put one together here quick for you guys if you let me know what exactly you are wanting.


----------



## rodneypierce

jtaudioacc said:


> Maybe someone at the meet next week will have one and I can check it for you, but, the P99 doesn't clip at 62...at least at 1k. It will clip I think at 57-58 if you have the SLA at +4.
> 
> I'll report back if I wire the one I have up, or get to one that's installed.


This would be awesome! Please keep us posted. I could be wrong as well. But better to be safe them sorry, thats forsure! Especially for those of us without an O-Scope.


----------



## CrossFired

Sounds like this deck is a winner! Anyone need 3 880 for $325.??


----------



## rodneypierce

CrossFired said:


> My 880 needs the front rcs's to mid, the rear to tweets.
> 
> Can you usb a hard drive? See if/how it works? as in speed and ease of use?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Cross, I dont have a HD that i can usb otherwise I would. Sorry man.


----------



## rodneypierce

CrossFired said:


> My 880 needs the front rcs's to mid, the rear to tweets.


Sounds like this is most likely the case with this one as well then. I was pretty sure I had them labeled correctly.


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Is this on the same system with similar xover points? Can you describe in detail how it differs? Someone (can't remember who) stated on the JVC KD-SH1000 that there was a quite annoying timbre to it. Sounds decent to me, but it does seem to have a frequency that is hard to reduce. With only a 9 band EQ, it could be something that can't be cut out. I haven't played with the parametric yet, so I can't speak on that too much. That is something that scares me when dropping below a 31 band (lesser fine tuning). Sometimes the approximate frequency you need to cut just isn't available.


Its funny you mentioned that about the sh. When I first installed it I loved the sound it produced but I noticed everytime I listened to it I had a headache after about five minutes. Ater a couple days the sound I initially liked became almost unbearable and I'd have a constant headache because of it. Messing with the eq tamed it a little bit but I couldn't take it anymore so I took it out after only 3 days. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rodneypierce

Well, there is still about 30 minutes left of upload time on the video, so I will post it first thing in the morning fellas


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> Sounds like this is most likely the case with this one as well then. I was pretty sure I had them labeled correctly.


Ditto.


----------



## XtantFreak

Question about finding the best brain I can to run my system. 

I have an xtant 1001x and 302a w/ 4-channel chip, eclipse 88120, and 6.5 boston acoustic pros components and coaxials. I am looking to get a p99rs or an older eclipse (cd8062, cd8053, 55090). I am going for the BEST SQ possible. 

How do you think these units compare, largely sq, specifically? Seems like the 5V on the p99rs may not be as nice sounding as the 8v, 16v balanced, of the eclipse's, but the prs has some newer features the older eclipses don't.

Thanks!


----------



## dietDrThunder

XtantFreak said:


> Question about finding the best brain I can to run my system.
> 
> I have an xtant 1001x and 302a w/ 4-channel chip, eclipse 88120, and 6.5 boston acoustic pros components and coaxials. I am looking to get a p99rs or an older eclipse (cd8062, cd8053, 55090). I am going for the BEST SQ possible.
> 
> How do you think these units compare, largely sq, specifically? Seems like the 5V on the p99rs may not be as nice sounding as the 8v, 16v balanced, of the eclipse's, but the prs has some newer features the older eclipses don't.
> 
> Thanks!


Start a thread...this will get lost in here, as this is a discussion specifically on the new model 80.


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

rodneypierce said:


> This would be awesome! Please keep us posted. I could be wrong as well. But better to be safe them sorry, thats forsure! Especially for those of us without an O-Scope.


Just for the info, the P99 doesnt clip at at 62 on the low, mid, and high preouts, with everything flat. Its just above 2 volts.

But it does clip at 62 on the sub preout. It doesnt at 61. At 62, the sub output is just above 5 volts with everything flat.


----------



## Bayboy

duro78 said:


> Its funny you mentioned that about the sh. When I first installed it I loved the sound it produced but I noticed everytime I listened to it I had a headache after about five minutes. Ater a couple days the sound I initially liked became almost unbearable and I'd have a constant headache because of it. Messing with the eq tamed it a little bit but I couldn't take it anymore so I took it out after only 3 days.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Thanks Duro! Now I remember who it was, it was you... :laugh: I could be wrong, but there seems to be a distinct sound to me as well, just not as bothersome as it was to you. My old Pioneer DEH-P500UB does sound like it has more mids to it, but it's not a double blind test or anything similar. It's on a different system with more EQ bands which may be making the major difference. The JVC is decent, just a certain band I can't seem to adjust in graphic mode.


----------



## Vermonster

dietDrThunder said:


> Hey, any of you guys got any help for this dude? I don't know the answer but somebody here does.


Thanks to DDT for the bump and to all who offered help. Looks like the only way to know for sure is to buy one and try.


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Thanks Duro! Now I remember who it was, it was you... :laugh: I could be wrong, but there seems to be a distinct sound to me as well, just not as bothersome as it was to you. My old Pioneer DEH-P500UB does sound like it has more mids to it, but it's not a double blind test or anything similar. It's on a different system with more EQ bands which may be making the major difference. The JVC is decent, just a certain band I can't seem to adjust in graphic mode.


Its nice someone listens to me around here lol. I can't remember exactly what frequency it was but adjustments in that range did tame it a little bit. It just wasn't enough for my taste. Like you I enjoyed the unit but even at low volumes the sound was kind of piercing.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowmarx

So this head unit is only good for two 2way plus sub???


----------



## Bayboy

duro78 said:


> Its nice someone listens to me around here lol. I can't remember exactly what frequency it was but adjustments in that range did tame it a little bit. It just wasn't enough for my taste. Like you I enjoyed the unit but even at low volumes the sound was kind of piercing.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Exactly.... I have found it a bit piercing at times too. Still hard for me pinpoint if the Diamond aluminum tweets are a big contributor. The mids are quite revealing and induce a tad of audible distortion so I would say they're definitely not ideal to judge from.On the Sony hu before it, the same problem existed. I've tried to tame it, but depending on the track played, I would almost need it back. You're right though, when cutting, it still exists a bit. I would probably try some less brighter drivers first before ruling it as unusable.


----------



## Bayboy

Shadowmarx said:


> So this head unit is only good for two 2way plus sub???


I wouldn't say that exactly. Yes, it was designed for 2-way + sub, but solutions can be fairly simple depending on where your drivers are. Example: after looking at a few outboard active xovers, I've found a simple 2-way will easily split up the midband section utilizing the 80prs' bandpass to set lower and upper.limits. The outboard will control the midrange high pass & midbass low pass. This is taking into account that you are trying to keep the midrange in the main vocal region (300- 3khz or so). If you keep the two drivers fairly close t/a will still be functional within reason. IE don't depend on ruler measurements, instead go by ear. Can't remember the two xovers I peeped at, but both ran just under $70 BNIB. Not a bad option. An even better one is if your amps have a xover variable enough to pull it off. The tweeters will still have their own t/a which you really don't need. 

If using a single wideband strictly for upper end then just adjust the hu's tweeter slope to -6db @ it's lowest xover point. Midbass will only low pass at 1.2khz(?) at it's lowest though so that's why I suggest an outboard.


Give me a bit and I will post the two I was looking at. One was a Lanzar Opti that had some damn good features that would add to tuning on the midbass.


----------



## Shadowmarx

Hmm with the price one can get a MS8 these dayz A person could get one of those. Take'n in consideration buy'n a xover...


Bayboy said:


> I wouldn't say that exactly. Yes, it was designed for 2-way + sub, but solutions can be fairly simple depending on where your drivers are. Example: after looking at a few outboard active xovers, I've found a simple 2-way will easily split up the midband section utilizing the 80prs' bandpass to set lower and upper.limits. The outboard will control the midrange high pass & midbass low pass. This is taking into account that you are trying to keep the midrange in the main vocal region (300- 3khz or so). If you keep the two drivers fairly close t/a will still be functional within reason. IE don't depend on ruler measurements, instead go by ear. Can't remember the two xovers I peeped at, but both ran just under $70 BNIB. Not a bad option. An even better one is if your amps have a xover variable enough to pull it off. The tweeters will still have their own t/a which you really don't need.
> 
> If using a single wideband strictly for upper end then just adjust the hu's tweeter slope to -6db @ it's lowest xover point. Midbass will only low pass at 1.2khz(?) at it's lowest though so that's why I suggest an outboard.
> 
> 
> Give me a bit and I will post the two I was looking at. One was a Lanzar Opti that had some damn good features that would add to tuning on the midbass.


----------



## Bayboy

And that is true except for one aspect that seems to be a repeating problem for some, lack of manual tuning. I haven't tried the MS-8, but to entrust all results in an autotune is a bit scary at times. Plus do not forget if you're already using an amp with widely variable xovers like the PPI 900.4 then there is no need to purchase anything else. Not to mention also, if you don't have the features of the 80prs already then getting a new hu plus MS-8 ups the ante a whole lot. That part was brought out before by RTon20s. There's a major price difference there.

Let's take for example that you are one of the lucky ones that obtained the 80prs for the $300, add the Lanzar OPTIX2B at less than $60-70 and what will you have? Check out the features... as far as cleanliness I can't speak on honestly.

http://www.jr.com/lanzar/pe/LZR_OPTIX2B/


----------



## rodneypierce

Alright guys, here is a quick video preview. I didnt have a CD in the player, which is why it doesnt show CD or Disc on the sources menu  Nothing crazy, but gives those that havnt got theres yet an idea of menu structure, etc. I also need to add, mine is setup in NW, not STD. Its setup to run 3 way active. (or 2 way + sub, however you look at it). So if your running it in standard mode, your menu structure will be a little different.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfEXZcq1gd4&feature=related


----------



## Shadowmarx

True !!!



Bayboy said:


> And that is true except for one aspect that seems to be a repeating problem for some, lack of manual tuning. I haven't tried the MS-8, but to entrust all results in an autotune is a bit scary at times. Plus do not forget if you're already using an amp with widely variable xovers like the PPI 900.4 then there is no need to purchase anything else. Not to mention also, if you don't have the features of the 80prs already then getting a new hu plus MS-8 ups the ante a whole lot. That part was brought out before by RTon20s. There's a major price difference there.
> 
> Let's take for example that you are one of the lucky ones that obtained the 80prs for the $300, add the Lanzar OPTIX2B at less than $60-70 and what will you have? Check out the features... as far as cleanliness I can't speak on honestly.
> 
> LANZAR 2 Way Electronic Crossover Network Remote Bass Optidrive OPTIX2B in Car Equalizers | JR.com


----------



## dietDrThunder

Nice work on the video! Hey, one note...I saw that when you were describing the 'Network 4' you made a passing comment to the effect that most people would leave it 'stereo.' As it is only for the low pass, I would assume that most folks have it set to 'mono?' I do anyway...is this wrong? I only have 1 sub but even if I had 2 they'd still be set up as a mono channel, ya?

Also I have a question. I see you have the same scroll-ish facny litttle effect every time you change tracks or folders that I have. I hate that.

Do you know how to make it not do that, and just show the title w/o the fanfare? It's irritating to have to wait 2 seconds every time you change folders on the USB (for example) to see which folder you have.


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> Nice work on the video! Hey, one note...I saw that when you were describing the 'Network 4' you made a passing comment to the effect that most people would leave it 'stereo.' As it is only for the low pass, I would assume that most folks have it set to 'mono?' I do anyway...is this wrong? I only have 1 sub but even if I had 2 they'd still be set up as a mono channel, ya?
> 
> Also I have a question. I see you have the same scroll-ish facny litttle effect every time you change tracks or folders that I have. I hate that.
> 
> Do you know how to make it not do that, and just show the title w/o the fanfare? It's irritating to have to wait 2 seconds every time you change folders on the USB (for example) to see which folder you have.


No, either stereo or mono is fine either way. I usually change it to either, depending on which sounds better. I dont think it really matters either way.

And Im not sure about the scrolling deal. I havnt had enough time to play with it yet. I have the day off today, so I might try and mess around with it a little bit more here.


----------



## nismos14

This is what sound retriever does:



> * Sound Retriever *
> 
> 
> The Sound Retriever function enhances compressed music formats, such as MP3, WMA or AAC and restores the music dynamics to CD-sound quality.
> 
> Sound Retriever essentially restores the music dynamics to your digital music.
> 
> The benefit is that you can enjoy your digital music without loss of audio quality; the system automatically enhances and restores rich sound.


----------



## Notloudenuf

Thanks @rodneypierce for the video. The visual representation of the crossover and slopes looks like the P99. This is very helpful (to me) than my 9887 just showing the crossover frequency.
At 3:36 you flip to the EQ mode. I like how all 16 bands are being shown so you can see what is being adjusted by each.
This thing looks like a great building block for a solid active system. I'm looking forward to your long term review of this piece.


----------



## nismos14

Also ASL works like this:

*Automatic Sound Levelizer (ASL):* During driving, road noise in the car changes according to the driving speed and road conditions. The Automatic Sound Levelizer monitors the road noise and automatically increases the unit's volume level, if the road noise becomes greater. The sensitivity of this feature can be set to one of five levels (low, mid-low, mid, mid-high, or high).

Extremely useful, you will not notice any difference until you are driving.


----------



## Bayboy

Damn.. should have stayed with the original JR order for $299. Guess I'll have to off more gear soon.


----------



## nismos14

If you call them you can prob still get it for 299


----------



## Bayboy

Think so? If that's still going I will call them today! Got gearitis about now, wanting that, the OPTIX2B, 5 channel, 2 channel. DQX is out the window if that happens....


----------



## nismos14

Yea I definitely think so.


----------



## gt.in.it

I have used sound retriever on my previous Pioneer units and it does make a difference, very nice feature


----------



## Coppertone

XtantFreak said:


> Question about finding the best brain I can to run my system.
> 
> I have an xtant 1001x and 302a w/ 4-channel chip, eclipse 88120, and 6.5 boston acoustic pros components and coaxials. I am looking to get a p99rs or an older eclipse (cd8062, cd8053, 55090). I am going for the BEST SQ possible.
> 
> How do you think these units compare, largely sq, specifically? Seems like the 5V on the p99rs may not be as nice sounding as the 8v, 16v balanced, of the eclipse's, but the prs has some newer features the older eclipses don't.
> 
> Thanks!


Trying to send you a pm, please clean out your mail box to receive it. This is about an Eclipse radio.


----------



## Bayboy

Heck, it's worth a try. I'll report back in a bit. At work so gotta sneak.. LOL


----------



## Bayboy

HOLY SHIZZNIT!!! I'll be damned! It worked.... Thanks Nismo!! Got both the 80prs and OPTIX2B shipped for $352 or something like that (didn't add up the cents), but both shipped free. Hot damn, somebody jump on it if you need one!


----------



## nismos14

Sweet!


----------



## rodneypierce

@ Nismos, that makes sense about the ASL. Didnt think of that.
@ Bayboy, awesome! You wont be disappointed in this HU. Its very nice. Sound is awesome. I would recommend the auto tune and auto TA though. It really worked (for me) very well. Needed small adjustments afterwards, but nothing crazy. And cut down on the tuning time (for me) drastically. 

Also, the sub level via auto eq, is actually nearly PERFECT for 100% SQ bass. It blends in perfectly with the music. PERFECTLY. But, if your a bass head, it wont be the right setting for you.

I was jamming to some Breaking Benjammin just a few minutes ago on the way to the post office,and reset it back to -6. It was a full, rich sound. Sounded GREAT! But, it doesnt have that kick drum pound in the chest that most bass heads like.

I have always heard, if you can feel the bass in an SQ setup, its way to much. I think they were right


----------



## Bayboy

nismos14 said:


> Sweet!


Especially when I sell off the DQX w/ DDC. That's almost a straight trade.


----------



## Bayboy

rodneypierce said:


> @ Nismos, that makes sense about the ASL. Didnt think of that.
> @ Bayboy, awesome! You wont be disappointed in this HU. Its very nice. Sound is awesome. I would recommend the auto tune and auto TA though. It really worked (for me) very well. Needed small adjustments afterwards, but nothing crazy. And cut down on the tuning time (for me) drastically.
> 
> Also, the sub level via auto eq, is actually nearly PERFECT for 100% SQ bass. It blends in perfectly with the music. PERFECTLY. But, if your a bass head, it wont be the right setting for you.
> 
> I was jamming to some Breaking Benjammin just a few minutes ago on the way to the post office,and reset it back to -6. It was a full, rich sound. Sounded GREAT! But, it doesnt have that kick drum pound in the chest that most bass heads like.
> 
> I have always heard, if you can feel the bass in an SQ setup, its way to much. I think they were right



What's funny is I like my system tuned for SQ, I still listen to a variety of music most would not consider to be related. We won't start that debate, so I'll just say no matter what you listen to on a SQ system, you hear way more detail. That's how I like it.


----------



## rodneypierce

Bayboy said:


> What's funny is I like my system tuned for SQ, I still listen to a variety of music most would not consider to be related. We won't start that debate, so I'll just say no matter what you listen to on a SQ system, you hear way more detail. That's how I like it.


Ah, it doesnt matter what music you listen to. We still want the highest qaulity we can get right?  Life is too short to listen to a shoddy system/flat sounding music.

I listen to everything (well, minus country or pop/new school teeny bopper music) from Frank Sinatra, to classical or jazz, to heavy metal like killswitch engage, or hard rock like Cold, Breaking Benjammin, Bullet For my Valentine, and even some dubstep or rap (some rap). 

So it doesnt matter either way what you listen to my friend. A good sounding system is where its at.

I also prefer SQ, until Im listening to rap or dubstep, then the bass gets boosted.


----------



## todd4198

Just got mine, hopefully I can get it in tomorrow morning. I gotta say though, this is the cheapest box I've ever gotten electronics in. Not that it matters, whatever to keep the costs down.
I also have the tiny crack/scratch above the mic jack on the front. If it hadn't have been brought up here I doubt I ever would have noticed it...



nismos14 said:


> SO is the R (top RCA) for midbass?


Straight from the install manual (RCA's from top to bottom):
"Rear output or high range output
Front output or middle range output
Subwoofer output or low range output"


----------



## rodneypierce

todd4198 said:


> Just got mine, hopefully I can get it in tomorrow morning. I gotta say though, this is the cheapest box I've ever gotten electronics in. Not that it matters, whatever to keep the costs down.
> I also have the tiny crack/scratch above the mic jack on the front. If it hadn't have been brought up here I doubt I ever would have noticed it...
> 
> 
> 
> Straight from the install manual (RCA's from top to bottom):
> "Rear output or high range output
> Front output or middle range output
> Subwoofer output or low range output"


Thats what I get for not reading the manual eh? Thats sort of backwards compared to what I am used too. So I just took for granted that the front was for high's, rear was for mids, etc. 

Thanks for posting!!


----------



## rton20s

rodneypierce said:


> I have always heard, if you can feel the bass in an SQ setup, its way to much. I think they were right


I guess I could agree, to some degree. However, I can tell you that you definitely feel the impact of the subs in "The Magic Bus." It doesn't feel like a typical SPL system at all though. More like the impact you would feel standing a few feet away from an actual set of drums.


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> Also, the sub level via auto eq, is actually nearly PERFECT for 100% SQ bass. It blends in perfectly with the music. PERFECTLY. But, if your a bass head, it wont be the right setting for you.


YMMV re: the auto-tune stuff. I can't speak to the ta yet as I haven't tried it manually, but the auto-eq, while an improvement over flat, was lacking for me for sure.

My sub got cut all the way to the min, to where it sounded like my sub just wasn't running. It's not like I have a big bass hitter either...it's a single Image Dynamics ID12D4V2 @2ohms run by a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.400 amp at maybe 60% output (at the gain I'm at). And I'm not a bass head...I've started competing in SQL MECA stuff.

I'm going to go back through tonight and go for a full manual tune after I write down all of the auto settings to try to improve. Apart from imaging, it hasn't yet sounded as good as it did before the install, so I can't wait to get it all set up properly.


----------



## rodneypierce

rton20s said:


> I guess I could agree, to some degree. However, I can tell you that you definitely feel the impact of the subs in "The Magic Bus." It doesn't feel like a typical SPL system at all though. More like the impact you would feel standing a few feet away from an actual set of drums.


well yes. But I dont think its the slamming, pounding feel.


----------



## rton20s

Bayboy said:


> HOLY SHIZZNIT!!! I'll be damned! It worked.... Thanks Nismo!! Got both the 80prs and OPTIX2B shipped for $352 or something like that (didn't add up the cents), but both shipped free. Hot damn, somebody jump on it if you need one!


Glad it all worked out for you. Nice find on the OPTIX2B as well! Hopefully it meets your sound quality needs. If you aren't satisfied with that, you might also check out the Cache CEX. Or even the Audio Control 2XS, since I know you are familiar with their equipment.


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> YMMV re: the auto-tune stuff. I can't speak to the ta yet as I haven't tried it manually, but the auto-eq, while an improvement over flat, was lacking for me for sure.
> 
> My sub got cut all the way to the min, to where it sounded like my sub just wasn't running. It's not like I have a big bass hitter either...it's a single Image Dynamics ID12D4V2 @2ohms run by a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.400 amp at maybe 60% output (at the gain I'm at). And I'm not a bass head...I've started competing in SQL MECA stuff.
> 
> I'm going to go back through tonight and go for a full manual tune after I write down all of the auto settings to try to improve. Apart from imaging, it hasn't yet sounded as good as it did before the install, so I can't wait to get it all set up properly.



Yes, mine was cut to -6. I could still clearly hear the sub at that level, when turned up to the mid 40's and up. it just wasnt pounding. I also got great mid range response with it, and it tamed the tweeters down great. (I also dont have a huge sub stage. Just a single ID10 D4 V3 in a .85 cu ft sealed enclosure)

I didnt affix the mic directly to the center of my head rest though. I taped it hanging from the roof of the car, at roughly the same position as the center of my head would have been. About 10 inches in front of the head rest and just hanging in mid air.


----------



## JAX

CrossFired said:


> Sounds like this deck is a winner! Anyone need 3 880 for $325.??



3? I need maybe 1 lol..


----------



## nismos14

95% of us listen to our systems with too much bass emphasis. Just keep that in mind.


----------



## rodneypierce

nismos14 said:


> 95% of us listen to our systems with too much bass emphasis. Just keep that in mind.


this, is oh so very true. Im guilty as well. 

BUT, I will say, I just went out, opened up the setup menu and muted the bass channel. I listened to an entire song without the subs on at all. It sounded good. Not alot of noticeable low end, but plenty of midbass, enough so that I really didnt feel like the music was missing anything. I could hear the drum hits, and the bass guitar. It sounded good!

I then started the track over, and listened to it with the sub channel turned on, at the Auto EQ setting. Holy hell. There was a major emphasis on low end bass, that I didnt notice before by listening to the system with the sub channel on all the time. Its definitely there. And honestly its there plenty. I just wouldnt have thought so before actually listening to an entire track, without that channel on. 

I usually shut each channel off individually to tune them, but Im not listening to fullness of music most of the time, instead Im listening for primarily distortion and cleanlyness within the specific sets of speakers.

Yes, I am new to the entire active thing (this is my second HU that I have ran active, but only been doing it for a little while here) but the SQ side of me is starting to peak through quite abit.


----------



## CrossFired

JAX said:


> 3? I need maybe 1 lol..


Well the three was to make it easy on me, and it would get me a second 80 for my other car. All three work 100%. One has got almost no use, as when the 99 came out, it scared me into thinking that Pioneer would never make a nice SQ HU for normal money again, so I bought a spare before the market dried up.

The second one has about 1/3 the use of my main unit, as it sit in my 2nd car, that I only use for trips.

The third has a good three years on 30~90 minutes a day, just about everyday.

The first would run you $215. shipped, second $165. shipped and third $125. shipped(it's missing a button).

If the 880 had USB, I would not sell them, as the 80 & 880 seem to have the same SQ.


----------



## rodneypierce

CrossFired said:


> Well the three was to make it easy on me, and it would get me a second 80 for my other car. All three work 100%. One has got almost no use, as when the 99 came out, it scared me into thinking that Pioneer would never make a nice SQ HU for normal money again, so I bought a spare before the market dried up.
> 
> The second one has about 1/3 the use of my main unit, as it sit in my 2nd car, that I only use for trips.
> 
> The third has a good three years on 30~90 minutes a day, just about everyday.
> 
> The first would run you $215. shipped, second $165. shipped and third $125. shipped(it's missing a button).
> 
> If the 880 had USB, I would not sell them, as the 80 & 880 seem to have the same SQ.


what a deal there. hell Jax, take all 3 of them! thats a better deal yet!

This is the only reason that I didnt end up with an 800/880. I needed the USB input, as 90% of my music is on a flash drive.


----------



## bigguy2010

rodneypierce said:


> what a deal there. hell Jax, take all 3 of them! thats a better deal yet!
> 
> This is the only reason that I didnt end up with an 800/880. I needed the USB input, as 90% of my music is on a flash drive.


I agree, I wish my 800 had a USB input. I've been using at the IP-BUS Aux cord that plugs into the headphone jack on my iPhone.


----------



## Vivid

Porgy said:


> Mines installed already, looks clean. Haven't had a chance to run the T/A and such but just playing with the preconfig position selector yielded out the gate better imaging than my old deck. BT hookup was a snap and streamed spotify to it. I have an external 500gb portable drive somewhere in the office Im going to load up with music to see if it recognizes in NTFS, if not reformat to FAT and see if that works.


Have you tried this already? What was the result?

Has anyone else tried to run some bigger capacity drive through one of the USBs yet? How big drives does the HU support? Do the drives run with USB power properly, or do they need external power? I'm planning on getting some storage with enough capacity to hold my WAVs and mp3s.


----------



## rton20s

If no one else has tested it, I have both the DEH-80PRS and a 1TB WD portable drive being delivered to my house next week. I can test to see if it works. I can only test for recognizing the overall capacity though, because I don't think I have anywhere near 1 TB of music right now. 

Thinking about it... I might be able to borrow from a friend who does though.


----------



## Mic10is

Got mine. it does not have that small crack or whatever others have


----------



## rodneypierce

Mic10is said:


> Got mine. it does not have that small crack or whatever others have


Mine has it (its not a crack though) but I had to look so hard to see it, that it really is not an issue. Once its in the car, you cant tell, no matter how hard you look that its there.


----------



## dietDrThunder

Mic10is said:


> Got mine. it does not have that small crack or whatever others have


Oh I meant to address that too..mine has it.

For those of you who might be worried about it, when I first unboxed it I thought I didn't have it. Later, I looked more closely and I was able to see that I do have the artifact on there. It's not a big deal, and the car is always too dark to see it, particularly if you don't know it's there.

I'm pretty picky, and I never considered for a moment bothering to investigate getting a replacement front panel or whatever.

Don't sweat it.


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> If no one else has tested it, I have both the DEH-80PRS and a 1TB WD portable drive being delivered to my house next week. I can test to see if it works. I can only test for recognizing the overall capacity though, because I don't think I have anywhere near 1 TB of music right now.
> 
> Thinking about it... I might be able to borrow from a friend who does though.


Which hard drive did you get? I'm extremely interested to see the outcome of this.


----------



## rton20s

I didn't order it for my music, but as a drive to use to store my photography and other documents. I was just going to try it out for testing the head unit capabilities for DIYMA. This is the model that I ordered: 

WD Elements SE


----------



## gmore

rodneypierce said:


> Alright guys, here is a quick video preview. I didnt have a CD in the player, which is why it doesnt show CD or Disc on the sources menu  Nothing crazy, but gives those that havnt got theres yet an idea of menu structure, etc. I also need to add, mine is setup in NW, not STD. Its setup to run 3 way active. (or 2 way + sub, however you look at it). So if your running it in standard mode, your menu structure will be a little different.
> 
> Pioneer DEH-80PRS preview - YouTube


Thanks for the video.

If memory from my DEH-P860M serves me, and I caught it right in your video - auto-EQ runs in the 'background' in addition to the other EQ option and you can turn it on or off independent of other settings. In other words - use auto-EQ to adjust for stereo anomalies with the cars acoustics, and then use presets and 2 custom settings(there was a 'rotation' option on the 860) to tweak to taste,different songs, etc. I couldn't verify it in the online manual and could be wrong, but I hope I'm right...?


----------



## nismos14

gmore said:


> Thanks for the video.
> 
> If memory from my DEH-P860M serves me, and I caught it right in your video - auto-EQ runs in the 'background' in addition to the other EQ option and you can turn it on or off independent of other settings. In other words - use auto-EQ to adjust for stereo anomalies with the cars acoustics, and then use presets and 2 custom settings(there was a 'rotation' option on the 860) to tweak to taste,different songs, etc. I couldn't verify it in the online manual and could be wrong, but I hope I'm right...?



Yea it looks like it's independent of each other. I still have an 860MP in my garage lol


----------



## Sleeves

Just installed my 80PRS today. I'm currently using a Seagate(?) 250GB USB powered hard drive with no issues so far (formatted FAT). I was at a Pioneer training a few weeks ago and they made special mention that they had increased the amperage on the USBs a bit to facilitate using external HDs. They have also added the option to use a "music browser" feature. When this is switched on and you first plug in a storage device (hard drive, USB stick, SD card) it will catalog the contents in an Apple-like Song/Artist/Album/Genre/Playlist format that should make it easier to browse than going through all the files that you've placed on there. Supposedly, as long as you do not remove the device it does not have to re-catalog the contents (which was a shortcoming in some other manufacturer's (ahem: Alpine USB system, Kenwood's Zune interface) indexing systems.

I've only had a chance to listen to this unit about 30 minutes or so while running errands and getting lunch. It replaced a DVA-7996 that I've been running for several months and so far (without any tuning beyond getting off the god-forsaken "powerful" EQ setting) I am not disappointed with the sound of it.


----------



## Bayboy

^^^^This is exactly what I was wondering about. Thanks for clarifying, the cataloging is a cool feature..


----------



## nismos14

I plan to use mostly iPod, but if I can use a 1 TB hd, I will certainly be ripping my music to .wav and using it with this. IF i ever use it, lol.


----------



## CrossFired

Thats good to hear! Do you know what type files? same as files on a cd?

I'd like to fill a Hard drive with AIFF(Red book)files and run it. Or at worse, Apple lossless. 




Sleeves said:


> Just installed my 80PRS today. I'm currently using a Seagate(?) 250GB USB powered hard drive with no issues so far (formatted FAT). I was at a Pioneer training a few weeks ago and they made special mention that they had increased the amperage on the USBs a bit to facilitate using external HDs. They have also added the option to use a "music browser" feature. When this is switched on and you first plug in a storage device (hard drive, USB stick, SD card) it will catalog the contents in an Apple-like Song/Artist/Album/Genre/Playlist format that should make it easier to browse than going through all the files that you've placed on there. Supposedly, as long as you do not remove the device it does not have to re-catalog the contents (which was a shortcoming in some other manufacturer's (ahem: Alpine USB system, Kenwood's Zune interface) indexing systems.
> 
> I've only had a chance to listen to this unit about 30 minutes or so while running errands and getting lunch. It replaced a DVA-7996 that I've been running for several months and so far (without any tuning beyond getting off the god-forsaken "powerful" EQ setting) I am not disappointed with the sound of it.


----------



## Sleeves

CrossFired said:


> Thats good to hear! Do you know what type files? same as files on a cd?


I'm using MP3 256kbps on mine. After reading the fine print at the end of the Pioneer manual: It will read full WAV files or up to 320kbps in MP3/WMA/AAC formats. It specifically says it will not read Apple lossless from a USB drive, so looks like you'll still need an iPod for that.


----------



## Sleeves

Also, here are the limits for file numbers on the storage device:
Playable folder heirarchy: up to 8 tiers
up to 1500 folders
up to 15000 files


----------



## rodneypierce

Alright, here is another video. I had a few questions on my other video (posted from youtube) and made another video with the answers. Figured I might as well post it here also.

Pioneer DEH-80PRS answers to questions. - YouTube


----------



## Motorsport3

Do you guys think p99rs will still hold its value since the new 80prs is so capable? I'm about to pull the trigger on either one but just scared p99rs might loose its value fairly quick.


----------



## nismos14

Motorsport3 said:


> Do you guys think p99rs will still hold its value since the new 80prs is so capable? I'm about to pull the trigger on either one but just scared p99rs might loose its value fairly quick.


They are two totally different purpose built units. I don't see the p99 losing any value because of this unit whatseover.


----------



## gmore

nismos14 said:


> Yea it looks like it's independent of each other. I still have an 860MP in my garage lol


Cool -Thx.

ETA... Tuesday!


----------



## Bayboy

Motorsport3 said:


> Do you guys think p99rs will still hold its value since the new 80prs is so capable? I'm about to pull the trigger on either one but just scared p99rs might loose its value fairly quick.



If I had the disposable cash to opt for the P99rs I would be all over it. 31 L/R bands + 4-way, & t/a in a hu is just about as good as it gets without having to have anything in between. Choose your amps & drivers then just go.... The 80prs is the current breakthrough within a certain price bracket. It does not compare nor is it meant to. Both have their place.


----------



## Motorsport3

nismos14 said:


> They are two totally different purpose built units. I don't see the p99 losing any value because of this unit whatseover.


I agree but the 80prs seems like best compromise between SQ and practicality. BT, Hard drive, 2way active, and the low price make me think a lot of people would rather pick 80prs over new/used p99rs. The price drop of used p99rs over new one is about the price of 80prs already, and if it drops even more I'll be fukked...
Wish pioneer never produced 80prs....


----------



## kyheng

1 is 3-way and another is 4-way....


----------



## Motorsport3

Bayboy said:


> If I had the disposable cash to opt for the P99rs I would be all over it. 31 L/R bands + 4-way, & t/a in a hu is just about as good as it gets without having to have anything in between. Choose your amps & drivers then just go.... The 80prs is the current breakthrough within a certain price bracket. It does not compare nor is it meant to. Both have their place.


Wish I have cash burning a hole on my ass... so I don;t have to think at all : )
I really want to try 3way active so p99 is the way to go I think.


----------



## Motorsport3

kyheng said:


> 1 is 3-way and another is 4-way....


One is 2-way +sub and another is 3-way +sub is what I meant : )


----------



## Bayboy

Same thing. We just add the sub in the numerical part since it is crossed over thus splitting frequency further. Quite a few get confused on that part.


----------



## dietDrThunder

I'm struggling with tuning, but that's to be expected since I've never had ta or stereo eq before.

Me venting/begging...


----------



## stereo_luver

LOL...welcome to the world of tuning.

Chuck


----------



## rodneypierce

dietDrThunder said:


> I'm struggling with tuning, but that's to be expected since I've never had ta or stereo eq before.
> 
> Me venting/begging...


I tried and tried with that method, and couldnt ever get anywhere with it.

Did you try what I had posted about the auto tune mic? I do think it makes a difference. 

Take a piece of tape, and hang the mic from the headliner of your car. But space it about 10-12 inches away from the head rest, tape it to the headliner and let the mic just dangle in mid air roughly where the center of your head would be. (mine was about 10-12 inches in front of my headrest)

This worked great for me. Just had to adjust the crossover points a little bit.

Give it a shot, what do you have to lose? 6 minutes of your time for the auto tune to complete.


----------



## Mic10is

I wont be able to install mine for a couple days---but can anyone tell me if there is a definite way to Use at least one pair of RCA as Full range out?
so no crossovers enables, just straight signal out?


----------



## Porgy

Vivid said:


> Have you tried this already? What was the result?
> 
> Has anyone else tried to run some bigger capacity drive through one of the USBs yet? How big drives does the HU support? Do the drives run with USB power properly, or do they need external power? I'm planning on getting some storage with enough capacity to hold my WAVs and mp3s.


Yes, I reformatted with the FAT32FORMATTER and dumped roughly 120GB of music onto the drive. Loaded up and read just like my little 8GB thumb drive.


----------



## dk2020

Hello. Can anyone confirm or deny gapless playback of different formats and sources on the 80PRS?

Red Book standard CD's I'm sure do, any word on:

-mp3/aac on USB
-wav on USB
-mp3/aac on SD
-wav on SD
-mp3/aac on iPod
-lossless on iPod
-mp3/aac on CD-R

Thanks for any info


----------



## Bayboy

Mic10is said:


> I wont be able to install mine for a couple days---but can anyone tell me if there is a definite way to Use at least one pair of RCA as Full range out?
> so no crossovers enables, just straight signal out?



The mids essentially will by adjusting both high pass & low pass slopes to -0db. No slope means all pass (full range).


Edit: In what way were you planning to use the HU? If not in network mode and you want a full range output, then of course you simply do not turn on any filter. In network mode set the front (mid) to -0db slope on both ends.


----------



## scion1403

i really want this but i cannot get past no satellite radio. and pioneer head units with satellite capability charge you almost 200.00 for the privalege of satellite and iphone control. are they trying to get me to stay with excelon? seriously unimpressed so far


----------



## Mic10is

Bayboy said:


> The mids essentially will by adjusting both high pass & low pass slopes to -0db. No slope means all pass (full range).


thanks for the answer. so just use front out


----------



## Bayboy

scion1403 said:


> i really want this but i cannot get past no satellite radio. and pioneer head units with satellite capability charge you almost 200.00 for the privalege of satellite and iphone control. are they trying to get me to stay with excelon? seriously unimpressed so far




I admit it seems to be the latest rage in car audio. The unit does offer a lot for the money and is a long awaited continuance in DSP alternatives. However, it doesn't do everything so if it does not suit you don't feel left out. I would think that most who are opting for the 80prs are looking at the main features of BT, USB, 3-way, & T/A. Add a few more features and I would also suspect the price would be high enough to probably heavily consider other options. 

The Clarion CZ702 should have similar features (to what degree no one knows yet), but does have Sirius satellite radio. Have you checked into that one?


----------



## WLDock

Motorsport3 said:


> Do you guys think p99rs will still hold its value since the new 80prs is so capable? I'm about to pull the trigger on either one but just scared p99rs might loose its value fairly quick.


What makes you think that? The P99RS will hold its value no different than the P9 Combo did back in the day. The deck does everything and much more. The jump in price is quite significant. There will be a lot less P99 sold than 80PRS decks. The P99 will always be more desirable and less obtainable! As much as us cheapos would like for the use price to come down to $600...there is not a chance that will happen anytime soon.

But as all car audio does...it will depreciate in time.



Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Mic10is

Bayboy said:


> The mids essentially will by adjusting both high pass & low pass slopes to -0db. No slope means all pass (full range).
> 
> 
> Edit: In what way were you planning to use the HU? If not in network mode and you want a full range output, then of course you simply do not turn on any filter. In network mode set the front (mid) to -0db slope on both ends.


im just using it as a transport. I like the Ipod/USB and BT integration over many other head units
I could care less about the built in processing.


----------



## pyfocal

I just got mine in last night.It took all day because I ran new power and ground for my amps and new RCA's.It appears to be dead quiet when no signal is present-such as between songs.Ipod control is to me a little better than the 9887.I haven't done any auto tune or manual tuning other than roughly setting the crossovers.No time alignment or EQ.No setting of position.It already has a decent image and stage.My 9887 never had this without a lot of tuning-once it was tuned it was very good though.I haven't reset my gains yet and it seems to have much stronger preout voltage.I'll have to lower my gains and possibly do an auto tune today.Yesterday was my install day and today will be tuning.I went with network mode and I have a 4 inch mid and tweet on a passive crossover running off the high output high passed at 1.25K.I took out the SLS 6's and put in my ES-06's for midbass running from 80 to 1.25K.This seems to work well and didn't lower the stage.I'd rather be able to cross both lower but it really doesn't seem to make much difference and the lower midrange does sound fuller and I like that better.Hopefully I can test out the Bluetooth calling and audio today after tuning.Thanks to Rodneypierce for the video !I am very happy with it so far.


----------



## dietDrThunder

The beep...the BEEP!!!! Must...turn...off..beep...

Also, has anyone figured out how to just make the display show the track info etc. w/o the little fancy/irritating scrolly thing? It is annoying to sit there for 2 seconds per click while it gets around to showing the info when surfing the USB stick.


----------



## kyheng

Turn off the HU and get in to the "secret" menus, from there you can set the ever scroll, reverse mode and others....
Unless they can the menu for this, else should be the same as older HUs....


----------



## SupraSkylineSTI

So in theory with the included microphone and automated time alignment, will this be as user friendly as the CDA-117 was in regards to just setting the time alignment via the computer and being done with it?

Or is this impossible with the DEH-80PRS, and further tuning will be necessary?

A decent CDA-117 and Imprint module goes about the same as you can get one of these right now brand new, so I'm having second thoughts about going with Alpine and leaning more towards the Piney.


----------



## (s)AINT

Got mine installed today, badass little unit considering the tuning capabilities and the bluetooth setup is pretty sweet.

Has anyone tried playing a FLAC file yet?


----------



## Bayboy

I'd imagine with both units, autotune may get you close, but a good ear & time in the chair will get you closer to your own tastes after the autotune. I've been playing with a JVC unit with similar features (less autotune) for about a couple of months now. It takes a bit of time to make a change & audition it (week per change) for me as I run it through the paces with my music collection. With autotune who knows, probably would be less???


----------



## duro78

This unit blows away the 117. Like bayboy mentioned any of the auto features will get you in the neighborhood but it will be up to you to fine tune. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## duro78

(s)AINT said:


> Got mine installed today, badass little unit considering the tuning capabilities and the bluetooth setup is pretty sweet.
> 
> Has anyone tried playing a FLAC file yet?


No flac, that probably won't happen for awhile

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## SupraSkylineSTI

I'm trying really hard to look past the cheap glossy finish of the faceplate and decide whether I should spring for it over the CDA-117


----------



## dietDrThunder

kyheng said:


> Turn off the HU and get in to the "secret" menus, from there you can set the ever scroll, reverse mode and others....
> Unless they can the menu for this, else should be the same as older HUs....


Is this real? If so, please point me to some details...thanks!


----------



## t3sn4f2

duro78 said:


> No flac, that probably won't happen for awhile
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


how bout flac from the flac player app?


----------



## kyheng

dietDrThunder said:


> Is this real? If so, please point me to some details...thanks!


It is on page 35, 36... All the initial settings can be set.....


----------



## rodneypierce

kyheng said:


> It is on page 35, 36... All the initial settings can be set.....


but it doesnt appear to work. I can get into the menu fine, and turn off the beep, but when I restart the HU, the beep still remains. 

Also, it doesnt appear to have a way to turn off the scrolling. No matter what, it appears that the initial scroll will still be there.


----------



## todd4198

I didn't see an option for beep in the initial menu. The closest thing was warning tone and that's just to let you know the faceplate is still on.


----------



## Porgy

t3sn4f2 said:


> how bout flac from the flac player app?


 i am able to play flac files from my phone via an app call PowerAMP via an aux cable. It can stream via BT as well albeit I believe the BT streaming bottleneck caps the quality? I haven't looked into it enough to speak with authority but I think it is degraded. The bigger problem is that i have to work within my phones internal memory limits and FLAC files are huge. I have Sumsung Galaxy Nexus which has 32GB of internal memory which may seem big but thats shared across everything on the phone so that usable space gets smaller.


----------



## Porgy

rodneypierce said:


> but it doesnt appear to work. I can get into the menu fine, and turn off the beep, but when I restart the HU, the beep still remains.
> 
> Also, it doesnt appear to have a way to turn off the scrolling. No matter what, it appears that the initial scroll will still be there.


I got my beep to turn off through the power off menu mentioned above.


----------



## (s)AINT

Is there anyone that can attest to using a SD card for a mass storage for music? I've been debating on buying a 32GB SD Card or running my music library from an external drive. Is there a unanimous preference for audio nerds with this kind of HU?

I was personally leaning for the SD card since I can drop a healthy amount of music and not have to worry about removing it very often. I've never bothered with a mass storage device before.


----------



## Porgy

(s)AINT said:


> Is there anyone that can attest to using a SD card for a mass storage for music? I've been debating on buying a 32GB SD Card or running my music library from an external drive. Is there a unanimous preference for audio nerds with this kind of HU?
> 
> I was personally leaning for the SD card since I can drop a healthy amount of music and not have to worry about removing it very often. I've never bothered with a mass storage device before.


I just tested a 16GB SDHC card. Its works. There should be no difference between running a SD card and an external HD other than one sits in your glove comparment and the other is inserted into the HU.


----------



## dietDrThunder

TO be clear, I'm talking about the beep you get with every control input, not the warning beep that the faceplate is still on. I have yet to figure out how to turn that beep off. If there is no way to do it, I will probably find a local electronics place disable it however needed. It is that irritating.

Also, can't turn off the little scroll-y display every time you change songs. This is even more annoying. If neither of these things can be fixed, there is a real possibility that I will exchange this or sell it and find another unit that does the ta stuff...maybe wait for the Clarion models that are coming out.


----------



## Danometal

I think I'm gonna just continue to run my CDA-117 coupled with my new Cache CEX 3 way Crossover. I hooked it up last night and it works great, and it has no noise. 

I realized I had left and right switched, so I hot swapped the RCAs (car off). But, a stunt like that may have popped Pioneer's pico fuse. Not sure. I like being allowed to swap stuff without unhooking the car battery.

If my 117 ever dies, I'll probably try to pick up one of these 80-PRS HUs.


----------



## duro78

Danometal said:


> I think I'm gonna just continue to run my CDA-117 coupled with my new Cache CEX 3 way Crossover. I hooked it up last night and it works great, and it has no noise.
> 
> I realized I had left and right switched, so I hot swapped the RCAs (car off). But, a stunt like that may have popped Pioneer's pico fuse. Not sure. I like being allowed to swap stuff without unhooking the car battery.
> 
> If my 117 ever dies, I'll probably try to pick up one of these 80-PRS HUs.


If your happy with your current setup and its pleasing to your ears there's really no reason to spend the money.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

Not sure if this has been answered since this thread began, but has anyone confirmed if the 80prs uses a pico fuse or not?


----------



## duro78

Bayboy said:


> Not sure if this has been answered since this thread began, but has anyone confirmed if the 80prs uses a pico fuse or not?


Good question, not even sure pioneer even uses them anymore. I've had quite a few pioneers over the years and even after hot swapping the rcas on the newer units I had no problem. On the older ones they blew quite easily. 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Danometal

duro78 said:


> If your happy with your current setup and its pleasing to your ears there's really no reason to spend the money.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Yea, that would be the most reasonable way to look at it (but you know how audio goes, always itching to try everything)

But, all I'm lacking now is steeper slope options (the Cache unit just does 12 dbs/octave - so I just swapped the phase on the mids) and L/R EQ, but having already paid retail for the 117 last year, $87 more dollars + 3 short RCAs to go active is much cheaper than buying an Imprint, and way cheaper than plopping down $350 for the Pioneer and hoping someone would buy the 117. Plus, it can work with whatever HU.

But I'm still droooling over the 80-PRS. I keep coming back to this thread..


----------



## duro78

Yeah tell me about it lol. Most of the stuff I buy I don't need. The 80 replaced a two month old 9887 that I was very happy with but I'm glad I did its made a world of difference. I didn't think a simple hu change could make such a big difference but it seemed to be the missing link. It went from sounding pretty to good to simply awesome. My comments probably don't help your decision any considering the 117 and 9887 are so similar in sound. Needless to say I love this freaking thing.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Bayboy

duro78 said:


> Good question, not even sure pioneer even uses them anymore. I've had quite a few pioneers over the years and even after hot swapping the rcas on the newer units I had no problem. On the older ones they blew quite easily.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I remember hot swapping quite a bit when tuning, but never had that problem happen. Then again I don't know exactly which units used it either. Over 90% of my headunits have been Pioneer since the mid 90's. Until then I'll remain careful to be on the safe side.


----------



## duro78

Pioneers really got a bad rap because of it. Doesn't make sense being associated with an issue that maybe doesnt exist. Like you I've had newer units, hot swapped and had no issues. But who knows

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## CrossFired

Bayboy said:


> Not sure if this has been answered since this thread began, but has anyone confirmed if the 80prs uses a pico fuse or not?


I'm thinking not, because the rca's are now chassis mounted.


----------



## Bayboy

Yeah it does make one sort of paranoid after hearing about it. Only was a problem on 1 or 2 units that I know of and they're still selling for high dollar. I trust Pioneer so I won't sweat it much. Thanks for the input. Looking forward to this upgrade.



On another note, I see some are using this as an alternative to a separate DSP unit. Coming from the DQX, it is not comparable IMO so I have no basis to look upon. Duro, I see you have an MS-8 as others may have as well. Are you using it in conjunction to the 80prs? If not, are you missing the Logic 7? Any other relative thoughts.....


----------



## duro78

CrossFired said:


> I'm thinking not, because the rca's are now chassis mounted.


That doesn't seem to matter because past units have had the fuse and had chassis mounted rca's.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## CrossFired

duro78 said:


> That doesn't seem to matter because past units have had the fuse and had chassis mounted rca's.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


My 860, 880 and 800 did not have them, but this new 80 does.

I really dont care about the pico issues, as I always ground my rca's anyway, so if my deck had the issue, I could not hear it.


----------



## LOWFLYER777

I'm hopefully going to install mine tomorrow and was looking for some tips, advice, or w/e you can possibly offer to this first time SQ head unit user.

Car: 2002 PT Cruiser
Equipment: 80PRS, JLA 900/5, OEM 6.5s+dash tweets in front, 5x7s in the rear, and JLA 12W7AE H.O. in the trunk. Hopin to upgrade interiors to some JLA C5s in the near future but it's some serious coin.

Other: Been amplifying my stockers for years and will continue to do so until I can afford some decent separates...I, am a bass head in case you couldn't tell.

Should I start a new thread??


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

LOWFLYER777 said:


> I'm hopefully going to install mine tomorrow and was looking for some tips, advice, or w/e you can possibly offer to this first time SQ head unit user.
> 
> Car: 2002 PT Cruiser
> Equipment: 80PRS, JLA 900/5, OEM 6.5s+dash tweets in front, 5x7s in the rear, and JLA 12W7AE H.O. in the trunk. Hopin to upgrade interiors to some JLA C5s in the near future but it's some serious coin.
> 
> Other: Been amplifying my stockers for years and will continue to do so until I can afford some decent separates...I, am a bass head in case you couldn't tell.
> 
> Should I start a new thread??



Yes, that would be your best bet. Other then that, just ake sure that your head unit is off when connecting the RCA's to the head unit/amp or else you can blow the famous peko fuse that is found on Pioneer head units (Not sure if this 80PRS has it, but better to be safer then sorry). Also, make sure to ground the head unit on a good location and grounding the cage will also help from what i've read.


----------



## darrenforeal

got mine installed today. I like it. But I do see how it is a $350 price point. It's not cheap, but...I dunno. I still like it though. For me it was function over form. I haven't really messed with it but it looks promising. One thing I will say, is the "amber" is NOT amber. It's pretty much the same as the orange/red and is not close to the amber on my p99, which is weird. That's my only main pet peeve with it thus far, but I haven't really got into it. Tomorrow I'll see if the p99 remote works with it, but looking at the menu functions I doubt it will.


----------



## Bayboy

I am sure Pioneer made it function over form in general. Still, despite any cosmetic quirks that it may have there is no other HU on the market that can compare within it's price range at this point. Until the Clarion comes out it is a ghost, with no manual to even browse from a comparison can't be made right now. It's form, well we'll leave that be. The next step up from $350 would be a processor (MS-8 mainly) which is not a fair comparison either. Pioneer has seemed to create a good niche with it.


----------



## nismos14

CrossFired said:


> My 860, 880 and 800 did not have them, but this new 80 does.
> 
> I really dont care about the pico issues, as I always ground my rca's anyway, so if my deck had the issue, I could not hear it.


That does not always solve the problem. 

I messed with this unit yesterday in my buddies car. I think it's solid, the face does have a cheaper plasticky feel and he was concerned that the slider buttons seem fragile. Overall the menu system is a lot better than the old multi touch and I think they did that on purpose because of how difficult it was for some to adjust the settings. Overall I feel it's very well laid out and provides excellent functionality and useability. I still will probably sell mine though lol.


----------



## dietDrThunder

darrenforeal said:


> got mine installed today. I like it. But I do see how it is a $350 price point. It's not cheap, but...I dunno. I still like it though. For me it was function over form. I haven't really messed with it but it looks promising. One thing I will say, is the "amber" is NOT amber. It's pretty much the same as the orange/red and is not close to the amber on my p99, which is weird. That's my only main pet peeve with it thus far, but I haven't really got into it. Tomorrow I'll see if the p99 remote works with it, but looking at the menu functions I doubt it will.


You can make your own custom color to match your dash lighting. Note that the 'custom' option is only available in the individual controls for the button area and the screen. If you adjust 'both' you get no custom option.

This is actually a good thing because the button lights don't match the screen illumination.


----------



## darrenforeal

dietDrThunder said:


> You can make your own custom color to match your dash lighting. Note that the 'custom' option is only available in the individual controls for the button area and the screen. If you adjust 'both' you get no custom option.
> 
> This is actually a good thing because the button lights don't match the screen illumination.


thanks for the tip. I'll look into that. Haven't looked at the manual yet.


----------



## Vivid

Thanks for the comments on hard drive usage. I've been trying to figure out a model that would work for sure, as I saw in some reviews, that some drives have some pre-installed areas that cause the device not to be found by a TV for example. I was also thinking that shock protection might be good in a car, but it's hard to find one that is of a suitable size. Well, maybe I'll order a Buffalo MiniStation and hope that it works.

It would be nice to read some more impressions/reviews of the HU.  I'm waiting for mine to arrive during this week hopefully. When I look outside, I know that I won't be installing it in the next days though. It's a bit chilly here.


----------



## Bayboy

I'm a bit anxious too to compare the quality to past models of various levels. Only had a problem on a couple of decks with the faceplate going out. They were both flap faced so I suspect it shouldn't be a problem since I now use usb 95% of the time. My last one (P500UB) never gave a glitch even after 5 years. I just pulled it out and it sold within minutes of listing.

Mines should be here tomorrow, but I'm still liquidating my closet gear to make room for the total revamp so it will be a while before it gets used. I believe it will pan out well.


----------



## nismos14

This faceplate will feel similar to those lower line HU's, it won't feel as nice as the 800/880, however the 880/800 were not solid feeling either, they were just a bit different. This HU feels just about the same and along the same lines of the older models


----------



## Bayboy

Not so bad if that's the case. Pioneer's lower line units are still of good quality. Just another cost cut where it won't really matter when you look at all the other features you're getting.

I know I will be more concerned with the quality of the xover I ordered with it. For $52 it was hard not to try out.


----------



## gmore

Sitting on my front doorstep !

Same crack/scratch by mic input as everyone else has reported. Not quite as solid a feel as I recall my 860 but I don't find it 'cheap', and I prefer this look... at least unplugged. In the end, all about sound for me and will try to install soon and post a review.

Bummed I didn't keep the rear support/alarm fitting(allows my alarm to set) - been many years since I've purchased a HU and thought it would have been included


----------



## dietDrThunder

As an fyi, I called Pioneer, and there is no option to turn off the beep.

Ugh.


----------



## Sleeves

Gmore: if you're talking about a Z3 alarm that can be salvaged, just not to include the radio as one of the zones.


----------



## gmore

Huh...

Yeah, its a Z3 - didn't know you could change zones. I'll look into it - THANKS!!!


----------



## rodneypierce

is this beep really that big of a deal? When your driving down the road, do you really notice that beep?? I can hear it, but have to concentrate on it before it bothers me.

And once playing music and driving down the road. Its not noticeable.


----------



## spl152db

rodneypierce said:


> is this beep really that big of a deal? When your driving down the road, do you really notice that beep?? I can hear it, but have to concentrate on it before it bothers me.
> 
> And once playing music and driving down the road. Its not noticeable.


just crack open the unit and kill the beeper in the unit. unless it goes through the speakers. then thats stupid.


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> is this beep really that big of a deal? When your driving down the road, do you really notice that beep?? I can hear it, but have to concentrate on it before it bothers me.
> 
> And once playing music and driving down the road. Its not noticeable.


lol...no ****...it isn't beeping when you're driving down the road playing music. 

example that actually makes sense: every step of manual TA adjustment beeps. That's a range of 0" - 160" , in .5" increments. When I sit in the car tuning it, I spend 30 minutes or more (initially a lot more) adjusting this setting over and over (and over). Not only is it annoying, but when I'm trying to hear phasing artifacts between the mids and the tweeters, the freq of the beep interferes (psychologically, not literally w/ the phase) making it very difficult to adjust by ear, for me anyway.


----------



## rodneypierce

@dr, LOL, no ****...........i meant while driving and changing songs.......anyone who has the unit would know it doesnt beep while driving down the road, just randomly.....

Good luck to you in your ventures..........


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> @dr, LOL, no ****...........i meant while driving and changing songs.......anyone who has the unit would know it doesnt beep while driving down the road, just randomly.....
> 
> Good luck to you in your ventures..........


lol...ya I just meant that doing those kinds of operations doesn't bother me...it's the other stuff.


----------



## dietDrThunder

rodneypierce said:


> @dr, LOL, no ****...........i meant while driving and changing songs.......anyone who has the unit would know it doesnt beep while driving down the road, just randomly.....
> 
> Good luck to you in your ventures..........


lol...ya I just meant that doing those kinds of operations doesn't bother me...it's the other stuff.


----------



## tulse

For anyone looking to order - Crutchfield code below. Worked for me. I believe it expires today, though. 



> Offer
> $20 off Orders $100+ Coupon Code: *3A825* (enter "Special Offer Code" at shipping and payment step)


$329 total shipped with harness, mount, antenna adapter and all those Crutchfield freebies.


----------



## Sleeves

gmore said:


> Huh...
> 
> Yeah, its a Z3 - didn't know you could change zones. I'll look into it - THANKS!!!


The rear peg of the factory radio goes through a loop in the back of the dash with a small switch built in to it. It is there so if your top gets slashed and someone attempts to steal your factory radio (LULZ) it will set off the factory alarm as soon as the peg leaves the loop. That loop is tied in with your door pin switches as an active zone on the alarm, so If you remove the factory radio without minding the loop your car thinks you've left a door open all the time and won't arm the alarm. 

I can't remember whether it's a normally open or normally closed switch, but depending you can either tie the 2 wires going in to it together or possibly unplug it from the loop so it thinks the radio is still in there. One of those 2 things will fix it for you.


----------



## (s)AINT

Does anyone notice a reduced volume output while using their iPhone4 on some recordings?

I notice even with some songs on the same album by the same artist have a massive drop off in volume and it doesnt sound quite as loud as the other tunes


----------



## gmore

Sleeves said:


> The rear peg of the factory radio goes through a loop in the back of the dash with a small switch built in to it. It is there so if your top gets slashed and someone attempts to steal your factory radio (LULZ) it will set off the factory alarm as soon as the peg leaves the loop. That loop is tied in with your door pin switches as an active zone on the alarm, so If you remove the factory radio without minding the loop your car thinks you've left a door open all the time and won't arm the alarm.
> 
> I can't remember whether it's a normally open or normally closed switch, but depending you can either tie the 2 wires going in to it together or possibly unplug it from the loop so it thinks the radio is still in there. One of those 2 things will fix it for you.


I appreciate the info - I ended up finding a screw that fit and modifying a marker cap to trigger it. Given the depth, its a bit offset and without moving the switch, the original 'bolt' probably wouldn't have worked. 

How'd you know it was a Z3 ? Can't imagine its the only car with this


----------



## boxer12

tulse said:


> For anyone looking to order - Crutchfield code below. Worked for me. I believe it expires today, though.
> 
> 
> 
> $329 total shipped with harness, mount, antenna adapter and all those Crutchfield freebies.



Thanks for sharing the Crutchfield code. It worked for me as well.


----------



## Bayboy

Order will be here today, but now I'm screwed for a bit longer. Been hearing noises from underneath the suv. After doing some investigating, I found my pinion seal has slung gear oil. Probably a clogged vent tube has blown the seal so that has to be repaired. Can't get the filler plug out to see if adding oil will eliminate the noise. Damn sure hope I don't have to rebuild or replace the rear end!


----------



## The Dude

Can anyone tell me if this deck still uses a 7 way volume knob, like the older Pioneer decks? My DEH-P600UB uses this, drives me crazy will attempting to make menu changes on the fly. Or does this deck have a volume button that strictly pushes straight in? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bayboy

There's a few vids up earlier in yhis thread that show operation. Checker them out. I found it to be quite interesting how the layout works.


----------



## nismos14

The Dude said:


> Can anyone tell me if this deck still uses a 7 way volume knob, like the older Pioneer decks? My DEH-P600UB uses this, drives me crazy will attempting to make menu changes on the fly. Or does this deck have a volume button that strictly pushes straight in? Thanks in advance.


No, not anymore.


----------



## The Dude

I have watched them all on Youtube, unfortunately I cannot tell from them how the main volume knob works. Definitely some good reviews, hoping someone who has had their hands on this deck can fill in this blank for me. Hoping that the second rocker switch has negated the need for the main volume knob to handle so many other functions....


----------



## The Dude

nismos14 said:


> No, not anymore.


Thank you sir. So it pushes straight in, and rotates only?


----------



## nismos14

Correct!


----------



## Bayboy

That's excellent! Having the similar P500UB was a pain at times getting into the menus and backing out of selections. One wrong move and you adjusted something you didn't want to.


----------



## nismos14

I thought the same thing about the outer box.


----------



## MerlinWerks

Is there any way to mute the audio from the front panel?


----------



## Bayboy

Got the package from JR and took my time opening it. Quickly checked out the normal stuff on the 80prs as everyone else. Yes, the scratch is there, but it is so minute that once the unit is on I doubt you will see it as others mentioned before. Even when off, you have to look pretty hard to notice it and I can't think of too many people that will be staring at a shut off headunit. With that I packed everything back up and into the closet it went. No need in going further as others have already done so. I'll save any further comments since I have to deal with my rear differential acting up.

As for the Optix2B, I must say I'm impressed with the build quality. Pretty solid feel with a bit of heft to it. I could be a little over-optimistic with it, but it has exceeded my expectations in that single aspect. Online pics do it no justice. All satin black powder coated metal construction with a brushed face is pretty clean. Actually matches my US Acoustics USB series amps. :idea2:

Potentiometers on the unit have a fairly stiff feel without detents. Some are a tad loose than others, yet all are on the firm side. The convex knobs are fairly flush with just enough protruding out that you still can't grasp with your thumb and index. They're slotted so use of a large flat head or something similar will be needed. With this I don't see a problem with a hand accidentally brushing across the board and offsetting adjustments. 

The remote is a bit meh.... Solid as well, but not fully enclosed. The back is quite open which brings a concern to dust. If you live in a dusty environment or such, I'd be a little concerned. The remote board is pretty small, but for what it does (bass boost level & sub level) that's probably all it really needs. The two remote potentiometers are quite stiff & detented (counted about 40 clicks each) which gives it a solid feel, so that's a plus. The knobs are finely splined and needs it; you can't turn them just by running your finger across it. 

Connections are as follows: rca input/outputs & remote (RJ45-F) on one side, power & fuse on the opposite. Both side connections are hidden underneath end caps that have a rectangular opening underneath and out to the sides. Four sheet metal screws for each side have enough thread left that it appears you can fab up some side covers from plastic or metal and easily attach them to totally hide wiring. Has separate sub & high inputs that can be mixed via switch on the face to also allow a single input (sub mode- mixed/direct). Outputs are line out, sub out, & high out of course.

Controls on the face are as follows: High pass 40hz-8khz w/ x1-x10 frequency multiplier switch. Infinitely variable L/R Phase shift 0-180 degrees each, then output level. Subwoofer 40-8khz w/ x1-x10 multiplier, bass boost 25hz-250hz with separate width adjustment (Q 2-20). Too bad it can't cut... . Output level and here's what's weird, a infinitely variable stereo/mono mode knob. Not sure if it's actually infinitely variable, but that's how the knob turns. Quite intriguing, but as long as it can entirely separate L/R it is useful. Other use will have to be seen.

With all this I know you guys wonder what the hell is this kooky mf'er trying to do with that and why on the 80prs thread?! :laugh: Well I do plan to use it with the 80prs if I decide to go 4-way. I can easily split the mid band from the HU and keep t/a fairly intact. The phase shift (if it works properly) may help fine tune or turn it to crap.  Of course this will be in keeping both midbass & midrange fairly close (door & kick). The adjustments seemingly are a great addition for extra dialing in beyond what the 80prs can handle, yet I get to keep most controls in the HU like I originally wanted. Utilizing the Opti's wide range sub xover, variable bass boost, & Q will let me fine tune just the midbass without disturbing other drivers. Very important if I cut some uppers on the sub from the deck EQ, I then can put it back in the midbass with the Opti. Too bad it won't cut, but I think it will work fine. I'll reserve any further comments until I get it all wired up and configured. Hopefully it functions well and is pretty clean. Slopes are only -12db, but it's range is more than enough to compensate for use of a sole midbass & wideband or midrange. Sub & tweet controlled by 80prs only.

Sorry for that guys.:blush:


----------



## JScherbain

Don't know if this was covered / confirmed yet or not as I havn't exactly sifted trough every single page in this thread (can you blame me?)... but I did see early on that hard drive support was asked about.

If I'm reading this correctly - the specs at the end of the owners manual (available in


----------



## JScherbain

Oops.

Anyway, the owners manual lists support for fat16/32 on the USB port, and lists wma, aac, and mp3 as supported formats. 

This suggests to me that an external hard drive will work, and even better it can be loaded up with Apple Lossless. I'd suggest a drive with built in shock sensor, or even a solid state drive as they won't be subject to the shock related damage as a traditional hard drive.

I don't ownthe deck - so I can't confirm, but it looks promising anyway.


----------



## rodneypierce

Alright, did some more tuning tonight on the system. Starting to come around nicely now.

I decided to go Dr.Thunder style  and turn the Auto EQ/Auto TA off and just go at it old school style. I couldnt get any discernible difference trying to use the pink noise tracks to set the TA, so I got out the ole trusty tape measure, and just measured center of each speaker to center of my head (roughly) when setting in the seat. This actually worked out really well with this HU. I could never get my stage correct with the CD7200 doing it this way, i had to listen for phase shifts to occur in order to get the stage where I wanted it, which is on the dash. This unit, I was unable to adjust with pink noise because I couldnt tell much of a difference just trying to listen. But after inputting all the measurements, the stage is set very nicely on the dash. I ended up actually tuning down the midrange a little bit, and tuned quite a bit on the EQ. 

It really is sounding good! My tweeters are off axis, so I ended up reversing the phase on them (via the HU) and reversed the phase on my passenger side mid. This really centered the vocals big time! 

Really happy with this unit so far. With some more seat time and tuning, its only bound to get better. I can cross my mids lower with this HU then I could with the CD7200. I had to keep them at 100hz in order to keep it clean, I can cross them at 80hz with this one and they are crystal clear. (Could be quality of the crossovers? Im not sure, but it works  )

Anyhow, I will keep you all updated on any progress. Really liking it so far!!

*Edit* Details on system.
Its not a high dollar system by any means. I have Aura 5.25 component set up front, with the mids mounted in the stock door location, and the tweeters at the base of the A pillar, aimed across the car at each passenger/driver.
ID10 D4 V3 sub in a .85 cu ft sealed enclosure 
Boston Acoustics GTA-1105 5 channel amp *LOVE THIS AMP!!! Thanks Nismos!!*


----------



## gmore

Ears are toast from too much tweaking, but I'm pretty certain its a keeper. I really like the UI and although the auto eq/te is not perfect, its pretty darn good and giving me new ideas for different settings. Obviously if your happy 1st time out...move on, but if you find yourself tweaking a lot - try it different ways. I've run it twice thus far with the mic in slightly different positions with of course, different results.

Even if you plan on doing things manually, you should try auto at least once. Its was pretty consistent for mid/highs, but way off for lows(NW mode) and an improvement. The acoustics in my car are pretty bad and I have a pretty unique set-up - even though the sub is 16" away, if measured at 70" - assuming some 'prime' reflection :shrug:

Have to try it again with fresh ears (and then again and again until I'm sick of it), but 'maybe' my 8+ years with a car stereo in 'transition' is finally over


----------



## rodneypierce

gmore said:


> Ears are toast from too much tweaking, but I'm pretty certain its a keeper. I really like the UI and although the auto eq/te is not perfect, its pretty darn good and giving me new ideas for different settings. Obviously if your happy 1st time out...move on, but if you find yourself tweaking a lot - try it different ways. I've run it twice thus far with the mic in slightly different positions with of course, different results.
> 
> Even if you plan on doing things manually, you should try auto at least once. Its was pretty consistent for mid/highs, but way off for lows(NW mode) and an improvement. The acoustics in my car are pretty bad and I have a pretty unique set-up - even though the sub is 16" away, if measured at 70" - assuming some 'prime' reflection :shrug:
> 
> Have to try it again with fresh ears (and then again and again until I'm sick of it), but 'maybe' my 8+ years with a car stereo in 'transition' is finally over



I do agree. I did the Auto TA/EQ twice, with slightly different positions, and got some pretty different settings. I was fairly happy with the results each time, until the next day when I got in the car, then felt I needed to adjust something.

Tonight I redid it again, but turned Auto TA/EQ off (read above) and we will see how tomorrow morning is for me when I get in the car to head to work. Hoping I wont feel the urge to adjust something again so soon :laugh:


----------



## rton20s

Mine finally showed up today as well. Pulled it out of the box and went through all of the contents. Everything looked good, but I do have he anomaly next to the line in jack, just like everyone else. 

I packed everything back up for now. I'm debating installing this into my stock system for now until I can order my amp kit and get my enclosure built. Then I would readjust the head unit in network mode with the Imagine components and sub and KS900.6.


----------



## OGJordan

Got mine from Crutchfield today, no mark next to the 3.5mm jack. Installed it today, it replaced an Alpine 9833 I've been using since it came out. Sounded more "full" than the Alpine right out of the box. Auto EQ was the only reason I got it, but it was HORRENDOUS. Quite possibly the worst sounding system I've ever had. Gonna have to spend some time tuning tomorrow. System consists of some 8" Peerless (can't remember the model to save my life) in well deadened doors, Dayton RS52 dome mids in the kicks as well as Morel tweets. The mids/tweets are ran off an old school 4 channel Reference amp through custom passive crossovers, the 8s are getting 200W ea. The sub is an SSA Xcon 15" ported facing forward sealed off from the trunk getting 1550W from one of the Clarion Arc clones. It definitely made the sub much smoother, and it seems more musical. My mids/tweets get real shrill easily, are very loud, but the Pioneer toned them down so much they seem muted and muddy. Like they're playing behind a curtain almost.


----------



## gmore

rodneypierce said:


> I do agree. I did the Auto TA/EQ twice, with slightly different positions, and got some pretty different settings. I was fairly happy with the results each time, until the next day when I got in the car, then felt I needed to adjust something.
> 
> Tonight I redid it again, but turned Auto TA/EQ off (read above) and we will see how tomorrow morning is for me when I get in the car to head to work. Hoping I wont feel the urge to adjust something again so soon :laugh:


As a serious studio hobbyist, I know you're suppose to make 'critical' audio adjustments with fresh ears... now, if I can only follow my own advice :laugh:


----------



## rodneypierce

gmore said:


> As a serious studio hobbyist, I know you're suppose to make 'critical' audio adjustments with fresh ears... now, if I can only follow my own advice :laugh:


Just got to work, an guess what? I still feel the need to adjust something. Almost appears that my highs need boosted a little bit in the middle volume range, but worried that might make them too brite in the high volume ranges. I didnt adjust anything this morning, I will leave it be on the drive home and see if I feel the same way as I did this morning. If so, more adjusting tonight :laugh:

This active thing might have been a very very bad choice!

I tried to go back to passive on monday with rear fill, and made it about 2 minutes before I ripped it back apart and put it back to active.


----------



## Bayboy

The more complex a system is the longer it will take to dial it in. The 80prs is no exception with L/R EQ, slopes, & t/a. The main thing is getting equal response from both left & right which will cause some odd looking adjustments. Don't know how good the autotune is on that, but an RTA would be a good help.

Sent from my SCH-I500


----------



## gmore

Bayboy said:


> The more complex a system is the longer it will take to dial it in.
> Sent from my SCH-I500


+1

I set up the crossover prior to running auto(highly recommend) - it left the low/LPF, mid/LPF and hi/HPF X-over points alone(a good thing) but changed eveything else. I originally had the low/LPF and mid/HPF at 80H with steep slopes, but it cut the mid level drastically, changed the mid/HPF to 100 and softened the slopes - It made for a better overall 'mix' but the problem I now face is that I'm not that fond of freq over 80 thru my sub, and can't boost them thru the mids(100-1.6K on floor) without boosting overall freq that I'll need to cut with EQ... its going to take a while, but given the limitations I have with my speakers/ placement - I think this 80 is about as good as I can get to handle the job anywhere near this price point.


----------



## Bayboy

Some fine tuning after the autotune is common unless you're pretty experienced enough to do all manual off rip. 

The problem of effecting other drivers is why I mentioned way back in the thread about having separate eq for each driver, yet it drives up cost. If you already own say a DQS, you're one lucky sucker! One of the reasons I added an extra piece to my setup (still was cheap). However, dont despair, no system is perfect. Even if you're good and have all the tools, it's going to take a while to get it right where YOU want it. The mic may work good for some, but I can't say I would entirely trust it for it is no comparison to our complex auditory system. 

Sent from my SCH-I500


----------



## Sleeves

JScherbain said:


> Oops.
> 
> Anyway, the owners manual lists support for fat16/32 on the USB port, and lists wma, aac, and mp3 as supported formats.
> 
> This suggests to me that an external hard drive will work, and even better it can be loaded up with Apple Lossless. I'd suggest a drive with built in shock sensor, or even a solid state drive as they won't be subject to the shock related damage as a traditional hard drive.
> 
> I don't ownthe deck - so I can't confirm, but it looks promising anyway.


Here's something I posted up a few pages back.



> Just installed my 80PRS today. I'm currently using a Seagate(?) 250GB USB powered hard drive with no issues so far (formatted FAT). I was at a Pioneer training a few weeks ago and they made special mention that they had increased the amperage on the USBs a bit to facilitate using external HDs. They have also added the option to use a "music browser" feature. When this is switched on and you first plug in a storage device (hard drive, USB stick, SD card) it will catalog the contents in an Apple-like Song/Artist/Album/Genre/Playlist format that should make it easier to browse than going through all the files that you've placed on there. Supposedly, as long as you do not remove the device it does not have to re-catalog the contents (which was a shortcoming in some other manufacturer's (ahem: Alpine USB system, Kenwood's Zune interface) indexing systems.


It will not recognize any lossless formats unless it is on your iPod. It will only go up to 320kbps from a storage device. I also need to amend my last statement about re-cataloging contents. It does in fact have to re-compile it's list each time you turn on the radio and use a USB input for a storage device (if you use their "Music Browser" feature, which is selectable). While it is "checking tags" you can still change songs and folders, you just won't be able to open up the browsing menu. Hope this helps.


----------



## Bayboy

I don't own any Apple products so excuse my ignorance. So with this Music Browser, does this mean I can have my whole library on usb, but choose to play only a certain genre like a playlist? Or does it only apply to search functions? 

Sent from my SCH-I500


----------



## tulse

Sleeves said:


> It will not recognize any lossless formats unless it is on your iPod.


Pioneer should be slapped for that.


----------



## Sleeves

Bayboy said:


> I don't own any Apple products so excuse my ignorance. So with this Music Browser, does this mean I can have my whole library on usb, but choose to play only a certain genre like a playlist? Or does it only apply to search functions?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I500


That is exactly what it means. When the Music Browser is turned on, it will compile those files and folders on your USB device and let you browse them by: 
Song
Artist
Album
Genre
Playlist
These will all be listed in true alphabetical order, whereas if you browse files without Music Browser they are listed kind-of alphabetical within the individual sessions you used to rip or place music on the hard drive. I think there is software that can reorganize these files for you but I haven't bothered with it since I have Music Browser now.


----------



## rodneypierce

Sleeves, how do you enable this music browser? And does it work with a USB flash drive?


----------



## flomofo

I havent used auto EQ before and already read the instructions, so does the auto EQ microphone just connect to the front?

Also I didnt know it came with the microphone and I ended up paying 30 bucks for it....


----------



## flomofo

The unit also came with one set of left/right RCA outputs.

Can I use this to connect to my system which is just a set of passive components run off of the deck until I get the rest of my components?


----------



## Bayboy

Sleeves said:


> That is exactly what it means. When the Music Browser is turned on, it will compile those files and folders on your USB device and let you browse them by:
> Song
> Artist
> Album
> Genre
> Playlist
> These will all be listed in true alphabetical order, whereas if you browse files without Music Browser they are listed kind-of alphabetical within the individual sessions you used to rip or place music on the hard drive. I think there is software that can reorganize these files for you but I haven't bothered with it since I have Music Browser now.


Ok, again for the dummy (me )..... IE you can only search for the files under those lists you posted, but say if I wanted to listen to a single genre and choose say "Jazz", will it play only songs with that genre tag? Making any sense? The same as you can do on your computer (windows media player)? If so, that would be tops! If not, then oh well.


----------



## sotelomichael

rodneypierce said:


> Alright guys, here is a quick video preview. I didnt have a CD in the player, which is why it doesnt show CD or Disc on the sources menu  Nothing crazy, but gives those that havnt got theres yet an idea of menu structure, etc. I also need to add, mine is setup in NW, not STD. Its setup to run 3 way active. (or 2 way + sub, however you look at it). So if your running it in standard mode, your menu structure will be a little different.
> 
> Pioneer DEH-80PRS preview - YouTube


Is anyone else having a problem going into the menu when you click the knob down?

When I click the button in the menu flashes and I can see the 4 icons like in the video with the word "function" with the first icon highlighted. However, when I press and hold the rotary knob inward, it stays in the menu instead of flashing it, but I can't move left or right to get into the other settings. I can upload a video, its really weird.

Basically how you see in the video that I quoted, you just click the button and it should get into the menu, well mine just flashes it and goes back to the previous screen (ie tuner station). 

I will try resetting it as I ran out of time to work on it today. I'll keep you posted just in case anyone else has this problem. (good thing I bought authorized just in case)


----------



## rodneypierce

dont hold it down. Just click it once to enter the menu, then click it again to enter whatever function you would like.


----------



## sotelomichael

rodneypierce said:


> dont hold it down. Just click it once to enter the menu, then click it again to enter whatever function you would like.


I have tried that. I just click it once and it FLASHES the menu screen but goes right back to the other screen as soon as I let go of the button. Holding it down is the only thing that keeps me in the MENU screen. Letting go, again, takes me to the previous screen.

I'll try and get a video up for you to see.


----------



## JScherbain

tulse said:


> Pioneer should be slapped for that.


Three slaps, minimum.


----------



## JScherbain

Sleeves said:


> It will not recognize any lossless formats unless it is on your iPod. It will only go up to 320kbps from a storage device.


Lame.... that kind of suggests to me that the iPod is doing the decoding and not the deck..... hopefully it's still a direct digital stream with these formats and being converted into analogue at the deck, not from the iPod ......the last iPod with a decent DAC was the 5th generation iPod video from several years back...Now they're all ****.


----------



## OGJordan

I have to amend my former mini review. Today I took the deck back out to finish the install, this deck is a bit deeper than my Alpine an hitting in my Deville. So in doing so I unplugged the unit. When I went to rerun the auto tune today, it sounded 100x better. I hung the mic from the roof more where my head is instead of against the headrest. So I was like "wow that shouldn't have made such a difference." 

Then when I was going through the menus I noticed they were different. Then I remembered, yesterday as I went to set the deck in place I remembered to change from 2 to 3 way at the last minute. The cables were all already attached. I thought I would just hit the reset button. THEN I realized it was hitting and forgot to reset it. So my first auto tune was done with the deck in front back sub mode when I have a 3way front. So I think it was trying to go full range through my mids and tweets in the kicks, then trying to bring up my "rears" which are 8" in doors. Hence the muddy sound. 


But anyway after NO tweaking except auto EQ I prefer this sound to my Alpine 9833 by a good deal.


----------



## nismos14

flomofo said:


> The unit also came with one set of left/right RCA outputs.
> 
> Can I use this to connect to my system which is just a set of passive components run off of the deck until I get the rest of my components?


Wait what? The HU has 3 sets of outputs and a pair of inputs off to the other side.



sotelomichael said:


> Is anyone else having a problem going into the menu when you click the knob down?
> 
> When I click the button in the menu flashes and I can see the 4 icons like in the video with the word "function" with the first icon highlighted. However, when I press and hold the rotary knob inward, it stays in the menu instead of flashing it, but I can't move left or right to get into the other settings. I can upload a video, its really weird.
> 
> Basically how you see in the video that I quoted, you just click the button and it should get into the menu, well mine just flashes it and goes back to the previous screen (ie tuner station).
> 
> I will try resetting it as I ran out of time to work on it today. I'll keep you posted just in case anyone else has this problem. (good thing I bought authorized just in case)


So you press the rotary knob in, after you do that can you turn the dial left and right to select which menu you want to go in? 

After you do that, when you press the rotary knob in and release it just exits the menu?



sotelomichael said:


> I have tried that. I just click it once and it FLASHES the menu screen but goes right back to the other screen as soon as I let go of the button. Holding it down is the only thing that keeps me in the MENU screen. Letting go, again, takes me to the previous screen.
> 
> I'll try and get a video up for you to see.


Really weird, try to post a vid man!


----------



## Sleeves

rodneypierce said:


> Sleeves, how do you enable this music browser? And does it work with a USB flash drive?


It's in the menu that you can access when the radio is turned off. I think you turn off the radio and hold the master control knob down for 3 seconds to access it.


----------



## sotelomichael

Here's a video of the problem I had with my unit. First, the menu flashes when clicking in the rotary knob, the volume on the screen would glitch, and the blue tooth would not work. I reset the unit and replugged in everything and it works now.

Here's a video though just in case someone else gets the same problem.

DEH-80PRS


----------



## duro78

sotelomichael said:


> Here's a video of the problem I had with my unit. First, the menu flashes when clicking in the rotary knob, the volume on the screen would glitch, and the blue tooth would not work. I reset the unit and replugged in everything and it works now.
> 
> Here's a video though just in case someone else gets the same problem.
> 
> DEH-80PRS


Thats definitely not supposed to happen. Hopefully you have a warranty.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## MaxxG

just bought mine today (anyone else get theirs for 265? ) exceited to see how much of a differnce ill notice from my Kenwood x-995??


----------



## tulse

MaxxG said:


> just bought mine today (anyone else get theirs for 265? ) exceited to see how much of a differnce ill notice from my Kenwood x-995??


Employee discount?


----------



## CrossFired

MaxxG said:


> just bought mine today (anyone else get theirs for 265? ) exceited to see how much of a differnce ill notice from my Kenwood x-995??


Got mine on sale at Fry's for $249.:laugh:


----------



## rton20s

Got my DEH-80PRS installed today in my '04 xB. The car's audio is currently completely stock otherwise. Didn't mess with it too much, but I did run the Auto TA/EQ and it did seem to make some difference. It is certainly a much cleaner sound than the stock HU. 

I may try and A/B test against the wife's car. We have added an amp and sub to her xB, but it is stock otherwise. I can mute the sub though, so it should be a pretty decent chance to A/B the difference the HU can make on an otherwise stock system, even without a bunch of tuning/tweaking.


----------



## reker13

CrossFired said:


> Got mine on sale at Fry's for $249.:laugh:


Wow any details on how long the sale lasts? Suppose this is B&M not online


----------



## nismos14

Just shows you where the margin probably really is on it.


----------



## reker13

JScherbain said:


> Lame.... that kind of suggests to me that the iPod is doing the decoding and not the deck..... hopefully it's still a direct digital stream with these formats and being converted into analogue at the deck, not from the iPod ......the last iPod with a decent DAC was the 5th generation iPod video from several years back...Now they're all ****.


I did a quick scan of the manual and didn't see any mention of how the DSP works with various inputs. (ipod or aux rca) I would think the DAC would do its thing regardless however I would appreciate it if anyone could confirm as I listen mostly to ipod and perhaps my droid via the aux input or suppose BT. Do not own the unit yet.

If the auto eq works with the ipod, BT and aux rca input would it be reasonable to assume the DSP/DAC is doing its thing?


----------



## Mike in CT

Found this response from a Pioneer rep:


----------



## Bayboy

CrossFired said:


> Got mine on sale at Fry's for $249.:laugh:




Damn that's cheap! Got to be at a loss because that's more like a closeout price. Good steal!


----------



## rton20s

I must say that the one thing I am finding disappointing so far is the radio reception. The stock HU in my xB was far superior in its ability to pick up terrestrial radio broadcasts. I really wonder if there is some way to make it perform better. I'd consider getting a better antenna, except for the fact that the xB has the antenna integrated into the quarter window glass.


----------



## jtaudioacc

rton20s said:


> I must say that the one thing I am finding disappointing so far is the radio reception. The stock HU in my xB was far superior in its ability to pick up terrestrial radio broadcasts. I really wonder if there is some way to make it perform better. I'd consider getting a better antenna, except for the fact that the xB has the antenna integrated into the quarter window glass.


Dustin, did you hook up the power antenna wire when installing? Very important on the XB, otherwise, forget radio. Might be the case. Also, if I remember correctly, it might not be on the radio harness. Might be a one wire plug attached to the antenna wire itself.


----------



## rton20s

JT, there was no wire connection on the Best Kits harnesses that I got. The power antenna wire on the Pioneer harness was not connected to anything. Does the factory harness have a connection for the antenna? If so, very odd that the Best Kits harness did not have he connection. 

Or is there another wire/harness back there that connects to the factory antenna? Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## jtaudioacc

rton20s said:


> JT, there was no wire connection on the Best Kits harnesses that I got. The power antenna wire on the Pioneer harness was not connected to anything. Does the factory harness have a connection for the antenna? If so, very odd that the Best Kits harness did not have he connection.
> 
> Or is there another wire/harness back there that connects to the factory antenna? Thanks for the heads up!


yeah, i'm pretty sure it's separate. i can guarantee that's your problem.










the plug looks something like that. pretty sure you'll need to cut it off and connect it to the radio antenna wire directly.

you can follow the antenna wire and you should see it coming off the side of it a little down in the dash.


----------



## CrossFired

reker13 said:


> Wow any details on how long the sale lasts? Suppose this is B&M not online


I was just horsing around!I did the pre order from J&R for $299.99


----------



## rton20s

JT, thanks for making me crack the dash back open! I'm no longer disappointed in the radio reception, but the installer instead. AKA, me! I blame lack of sleep due to a teething infant. Five minutes of work and the power antenna wire now hooked up and it was in the harness. 

The one bonus is that because I completely disconnected the HU, everything was reset. That prompted me to re-run the Auto TA/EQ. Even better than the first time. I'm really liking this head unit, especially for the money. Now I can't wait to see what this thing can do in active mode once I get the rest of my system installed.


----------



## Bayboy

Good work guys! 

Sent from my SCH-I500


----------



## MaxxG

CrossFired said:


> Got mine on sale at Fry's for $249.:laugh:


Lucky?! i work at Frys and thats the best deal we had? of course im in Tx and im sure the prices are different than our cali stores


----------



## indytrucks

Anyone used the Japanese equivalent of this yet? The 970. I need to know if its like the 80prs and you can select languages when you install it during the initial set up. Most of the menus are in English but it would be nice if I could make it all English. Worst case scenario, I'll buy one from the states and not be able to use the radio.


----------



## CrossFired

indytrucks said:


> Anyone used the Japanese equivalent of this yet? The 970. I need to know if its like the 80prs and you can select languages when you install it during the initial set up. Most of the menus are in English but it would be nice if I could make it all English. Worst case scenario, I'll buy one from the states and not be able to use the radio.


You could just learn the few japanese characters used on the HU.


----------



## indytrucks

I'm trying! It's a tough language to speak let alone read.


----------



## JScherbain

indytrucks said:


> Anyone used the Japanese equivalent of this yet? The 970.


Any advantages the Japanese version has over the North American or? Just wondering why you'd want to use it over the one available here....


----------



## rodneypierce

JS, because he lives in Japan. The radio frequency bands differ from region to region. So in order for him to be able to use the radio there, he would need the Japanese market version.


----------



## JScherbain

rodneypierce said:


> JS, because he lives in Japan. The radio frequency bands differ from region to region. So in order for him to be able to use the radio there, he would need the Japanese market version.


lol. Good reason, I didn't look at his location my bad.


----------



## rodneypierce

JScherbain said:


> lol. Good reason, I didn't look at his location my bad.


----------



## indytrucks

Bingo! So know one knows then? Guess I'll have to hit Autobacs and reset their display unit haha.


----------



## 1999 towhoe

How do you set the auto t/a and eq on this unit? Mine just says please set auto eq. And I can't figure it out.


----------



## sotelomichael

1999 towhoe said:


> How do you set the auto t/a and eq on this unit? Mine just says please set auto eq. And I can't figure it out.


I was in the same boat as you a few hours ago. Its actually inside the manual you have to dig through it.


To save you some time, simply turn off the unit by pressing and holding SRC down, when it shuts off, press and hold EQ until the unit powers up again, it will go into the auto t/a and eq menu, just click the rotary button in after you've setup your mic, then the count down starts. Takes about 4-5 minutes.

Also, while you're at it, you can also shut off the internal amp if you are using external amps. Just turn the unit off with SRC again, and this time turn it on by pressing the rotary button in until the unit powers on. Use the levers and move about 7-10 times (I forget) to one side until your reach the option that displays internal amp, just click the rotary button in to disable it and you're good to go. (click back and it should turn off, turn back on as usual)


----------



## ErinH

Has anyone gotten a chance to try the p99 remote with this yet?
I've nearly ordered it myself just to check but that's a lot of money jut to answer a question. Lol. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## rton20s

Nope, I haven’t even put batteries in the supplied remote yet. Though, I should so I’m not touching the HU as much. There is a guy from DIYMA local to me that has a P99. Maybe I can get in touch with him soon and we can see if his remote works on my DEH-80PRS.


----------



## rodneypierce

bikinpunk said:


> Has anyone gotten a chance to try the p99 remote with this yet?
> I've nearly ordered it myself just to check but that's a lot of money jut to answer a question. Lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


send me a P99 remote, and Ill check it out and send it back when done.


----------



## darrenforeal

I just tested the remotes. the p99 remote works with the 80prs. Kinda. It doesn't work well and offers no advantage. The on/off works, the volume works, the att works, the switching between displays button works, and switching tracks works. But you can't to get to any menu functions like in the p99. The main scroll wheel on the p99 remote and button in the middle doesn't work with the 80prs. And the pause button doesn't work.

that said the remote that comes with the 80prs isn't that great either.


----------



## CrossFired

darrenforeal said:


> I just tested the remotes. the p99 remote works with the 80prs. Kinda. It doesn't work well and offers no advantage. The on/off works, the volume works, the att works, the switching between displays button works, and switching tracks works. But you can't to get to any menu functions like in the p99. The main scroll wheel on the p99 remote and button in the middle doesn't work with the 80prs. And the pause button doesn't work.
> 
> that said the remote that comes with the 80prs isn't that great either.


The 80 remote blows! I'm using my 880 remote.


----------



## 1999 towhoe

Holy crap I have a stage now! Didn't know what I was missing. Best 300 dollars I ever spent on car audio. I can't believe there the same speakers. L/r eq did wonders and I don't even know what I am doing. Sorry to threadjack. just wanted to share a positive experience with unit


----------



## darrenforeal

1999 towhoe said:


> Holy crap I have a stage now! Didn't know what I was missing. Best 300 dollars I ever spent on car audio. I can't believe there the same speakers. L/r eq did wonders and I don't even know what I am doing. Sorry to threadjack. just wanted to share a positive experience with unit


that's no threadjack. glad to see you have had positive results. I like mine too and I haven't even been able to mess with it yet like my p99.


----------



## robert_wrath

CrossFired said:


> The 80 remote blows! I'm using my 880 remote.


You're not the first to complain about the remote the 80PRS provides.


----------



## IBcivic

Some things had to be cut, somewhere, to be able to put out a superior product in this price category... It's called *value engineering* and Pio got it right.


----------



## robert_wrath

IBcivic said:


> Some things had to be cut, somewhere, to be able to put out a superior product in this price category... It's called *value engineering* and Pioneer got it right.


+1 Got that right. Besides, it's just a remote. The goodies are on the HU itself.


----------



## ErinH

darrenforeal said:


> But you can't to get to any menu functions like in the p99. The main scroll wheel on the p99 remote and button in the middle doesn't work with the 80prs. And the pause button doesn't work.


That sucks. 

Thanks for te information. 




Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## CrossFired

IBcivic said:


> Some things had to be cut, somewhere, to be able to put out a superior product in this price category... It's called *value engineering* and Pio got it right.


Very True! That's why I sold my 880's, even thoe they were built way better than the 80.

I figure Pioneer must have put the money in the circuit board and chips(DSP'S),
Because the 80 sound better then my 880 ever did in some ways, and as good in others.


----------



## WLDock

CrossFired said:


> ....Because the 80 sound better then my 880 ever did in some ways, and as good in others.


Interesting! I would like to test that out first hand....but I might just hold on to the 800 until I can spring for a P99.


----------



## Mike in CT

A lot of posts here, but I do remember reading that an individual complained about the beeping at power down. As described in the manual, this is a reminder to remove face and this can be disabled.

Just got my unit in today and am very satisfied. Replaced an Alpine 9887. For me, the auto tune worked nicely. With the interior color cutomization capability, the match can be perfect with the BMW amber/orange interior illumination.


----------



## 2wheelie

HOLY **** that looks great! The color match is just perfect. I'm jealous...


----------



## t3sn4f2

2wheelie said:


> HOLY **** that looks great! The color match is just perfect. I'm jealous...


x2!

I bet it would look even better if you texture and color matched the bezel with some SEM treatments.


----------



## Bayboy

X3! That is beautiful.... looks like it really came with the car!


----------



## CrossFired

Very nice of BMW to offer an 80 as factory!

Looks good!!



Mike in CT said:


> A lot of posts here, but I do remember reading that an individual complained about the beeping at power down. As described in the manual, this is a reminder to remove face and this can be disabled.
> 
> Just got my unit in today and am very satisfied. Replaced an Alpine 9887. For me, the auto tune worked nicely. With the interior color cutomization capability, the match can be perfect with the BMW amber/orange interior illumination.


----------



## darrenforeal

yes it looks great! I love mine too


----------



## whoever

I was about to purchase the P99, however I'm going to get either the Mosconi or PS8 when it comes out so I do not need all of what the P99 can do, I can add a toslink digital out to this unit but will I lose ipod and usb?


----------



## 2wheelie

I would expect the USB input to still be functional. How do you plan to add toslink? Bypass the dac on the pcb?

The p99rs is more money than the ps8 or the 6to8 but you have all the benefits that to with it. By the time you get the external processor and the 80prs, the price is negligable anyway.


----------



## whoever

Yes I was going to bypass the DAC, price isnt really a concern- to a point.


----------



## 2wheelie

whoever said:


> Yes I was going to bypass the DAC, price isnt really a concern- to a point.


I would get the 99rs then and enjoy a simplified install and the ability to tune without a laptop. I bet this will have the lowest distortion figures of any possible combination anyway.

Oh, and if you do what you wanted originally, you'll loose volume control from the deck fwiw. Sound like a hassle to me.


----------



## whoever

The Arc comes with an optional control that includes master volume. I'll just pick up the 80 and play with it.


----------



## t3sn4f2

whoever said:


> The Arc comes with an optional control that includes master volume. I'll just pick up the 80 and play with it.


In order to get a digital output from the internal USB input of the 80PRS (or any head unit for that matter). You have to tap into those signals on the head unit. 

I've never seen that done. The deepest I've seen someone go, aside from the alpine transport Toslink mod, is pulling the digital stream after the head unit's DSP. If possible that seems like a much better choice since it would leave ALL the head unit's functionalities like multi source, source selection, tone control, sub level, bluetooth, handsfree, etc. in place. Then the only thing to worry about would be master volume control.

The mosconi dsp is suppose to be coming out with a digital input module which allows you do control its master volume setting via the head units analog output signal. Assuming the analog out from the head unit AND the digital input on the 6to8 is being fed by the same audio stream of course. This would be an excellent setup IF you could accomplish the post DSP mode on the 80PRS.

If not possible there are other options though. You can see if this will work with this head unit and your idevice.......Use an apple digital av adapter to give you a parallel digital hdmi port alongside the USB port for the 80prs. The USB port will feed the com signals to the head unit as usual, as well as audio for master volume control of the 6to8 only. And then the hdmi will be you digital output from the 6to8's digital input. All you would need other than the av dongle is what is known as an "HDMI to S/PDIF extractor". I'd get a solid one from gefen, kramer elec., or startech to make sure that there aren't any jitter issues from poor designs. This setup of course ill only give you a digital output for the idevice, all other sources inclusing CD or USB drives will go out the analog outputs of the head unit.


----------



## whoever

t3sn4f2, thank you for that post, where I am ending up is car pc. I dont want to derail this thread from it's original intent.


----------



## t3sn4f2

whoever said:


> t3sn4f2, thank you for that post, where I am ending up is car pc. I dont want to derail this thread from it's original intent.


Wait for win8 tablets with capacitive touch sunlight readable screens, front end and USB soundcard and hdradio compatibility. Plus they should be much less than what an inferior excellent quality sunlight readable screen cost today (ie $700). 

K, back ontopic.


----------



## dietDrThunder

Mike in CT said:


> A lot of posts here, but I do remember reading that an individual complained about the beeping at power down. As described in the manual, this is a reminder to remove face and this can be disabled.


That was me, and I was complaining about it beeping every time I touch a control. This can't be disabled.


----------



## Vivid

Does someone know if there is some limitation to the folder structure that can be used on an external hard drive with the HU? On some devices one can't have too many levels of folders, so I'm wondering if this one has some limitation?

I'm still waiting for the HU to arrive and was thinking of preparing my hard drive in advance. Is this kind of structure possible: WAV/Artist/Album/cdX/song.WAV ?


----------



## CrossFired

Vivid said:


> Does someone know if there is some limitation to the folder structure that can be used on an external hard drive with the HU? On some devices one can't have too many levels of folders, so I'm wondering if this one has some limitation?
> 
> I'm still waiting for the HU to arrive and was thinking of preparing my hard drive in advance. Is this kind of structure possible: WAV/Artist/Album/cdX/song.WAV ?


I've found no limitations with mine. But I'm not sure what cdX is?

Mine is set as Artist, album, song.

And I just noticed I forgot to put my AC/DC on this drive!!


----------



## pionkej

I think this has been asked before, but I can't search within a thread from my phone, so pardon if it's a redundant question. 

Does anybody know if the 80 can use the internal amplifier and RCA outs at the same time? The "RCA input modes" has me concerned. Specifically, I'd like to use the RCA's for mids and sub to my 6to8 and use the amp to power and process the tweeters. 

This would give me 10 channels of DSP power so I can control my midrange arrays actively. (6to8-subs, midbass, midrange array) (80prs-tweeters). 

Thanks for any help you can provide.


----------



## CrossFired

pionkej said:


> I think this has been asked before, but I can't search within a thread from my phone, so pardon if it's a redundant question.
> 
> Does anybody know if the 80 can use the internal amplifier and RCA outs at the same time? The "RCA input modes" has me concerned. Specifically, I'd like to use the RCA's for mids and sub to my 6to8 and use the amp to power and process the tweeters.
> 
> This would give me 10 channels of DSP power so I can control my midrange arrays actively. (6to8-subs, midbass, midrange array) (80prs-tweeters).
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.


My 880 could do this, but I've not tried it with the 80. I would guess, Yes.


----------



## pionkej

CrossFired said:


> My 880 could do this, but I've not tried it with the 80. I would guess, Yes.


Sweet. Thanks!


----------



## Vivid

CrossFired said:


> I've found no limitations with mine. But I'm not sure what cdX is?
> 
> Mine is set as Artist, album, song.
> 
> And I just noticed I forgot to put my AC/DC on this drive!!


Thanks for the reply. CdX meant that if some album has more discs than one, then those could be in separate folders. I will go with that kind of structure now.


----------



## (s)AINT

I must be the only person here that got some funky setting from the auto eq. The vocals sound a little better but my conservatively tuned w7 virtually has no output whatsoever. And the mid highs are pretty harsh sounding


----------



## jbowers

(s)AINT said:


> I must be the only person here that got some funky setting from the auto eq. The vocals sound a little better but my conservatively tuned w7 virtually has no output whatsoever. And the mid highs are pretty harsh sounding


Auto tune dialed my sub output back to -20, so I just rolled it on back up to about -4 and I was happy again.


----------



## CrossFired

Vivid said:


> Thanks for the reply. CdX meant that if some album has more discs than one, then those could be in separate folders. I will go with that kind of structure now.


Yes, it will be ok with multiple albums under a single artist.


----------



## CrossFired

(s)AINT said:


> I must be the only person here that got some funky setting from the auto eq. The vocals sound a little better but my conservatively tuned w7 virtually has no output whatsoever. And the mid highs are pretty harsh sounding


The auto stuff can be funky! I like the tone curve it gives me, as I only needed to bring the bass up 1 and the highs down 2.but the TA is always a little off. 

The best adjustment I made was with a tape measure. Also, if you input the highs 4~6 closer to you, the TA will delay the time on them, giving you a much smoother sound.

Also, if your TA # is way off, like 150" and you know your driver is only 45" away, check your phase.


----------



## rton20s

CrossFired said:


> My 880 could do this, but I've not tried it with the 80. I would guess, Yes.


Although, I haven't tried it on my own unit, I did ask a similar question of Pioneer on their FB page before the 80 PRS was released. According to them, if you are using network mode (high, mid, sub) the crossovers only work on the RCA outputs. Not on the speaker level output. If you are in standard mode (front, rear, sub) the crossover works on both the RCA and speaker level outputs. 

Bottom line, if you want to use network mode, the speaker level outputs are useless.


----------



## gt.in.it

does anyone know if you can modify the auto eq?  I have run the auto eq and sounds pretty good, but would like to tweak from where its at. If I go to the settings on the eq it shows flat across the board even if yo togle auto on or off. I have tried to set my own eq but sound stage is a mess.


----------



## Bendr

J&R is back at $299 with free shipping

PIONEER CD DSP BLUETOOTH AND HD RADIO in Car Stereo Receivers | JR.com

I was debating between this and the Kenwood X996, but I like the features this one has. Plus, I figure at this price, I should be able to turn around and sell the pioneer if I don't like it... 

Can't wait to get it and put it in. It will be a much welcome upgrade from stock in my focus!


----------



## CrossFired

jr.com is nuts! half the dealers are out of stock and the others are charging $350~$400.

I need a second one!!


----------



## tnbubba

dangit.. do manufactures not listen..
I was set to buy this unit.. until I realized the corssover points are wrong for anyone using dome mids!!!!!!!!!


----------



## ErinH

^ it's the year 2012. Why are you still using dome mids?


----------



## tnbubba

because they sound better!!! and work better in my truck and I can fit them in instead of hacking up or fiberglass in kick panels..
nothing wrong with dome mids you should check the post on some of the low cost daytons for budget build but
no mine are either modified jbl mb quarts or visatons..

more efficiency than most cone drives running from 250 - 2k and most extend response beyond 12 k flat so I don't tweets on some occasions..


----------



## ErinH

tnbubba said:


> because they sound better!!!
> 
> more efficiency than most cone drives running from 250 - 2k and most extend response beyond 12 k flat so I don't tweets on some occasions..


that's a very blanketed set of statements. 

I was just joking with you anyway.


----------



## tnbubba

the balance between the tweeter and woofer of a two-way speaker with the front and rear weight distribution of a super sports car, the golden ratio would be a 50/50 balance. Alas, most two-way speakers are 70/30 top-heavy at best. The reason is two-fold. First, most conventional tweeter's narrow bandwidth limits their operation from 2.5kHz (or 2kHz) to 20kHz. This means 3, hardly 4 octaves. Second and as a result of the first, the woofer has to take on the unwieldy remaining burden of 6 to 7 octaves. This is asking for trouble. Her name is FMD - frequency modulation or Doppler distortion. That is a transitional form of behavior that occurs when the driver diaphragm simultaneously carries far-spaced frequencies while the frequency with the stronger sound pressure level causes fluctuations in the other. To limit FMD, the displacement and operating bandwidth of the mid/woofer must be optimized, which in the end limits useful bass output.

a more ideal top-to-bottom distribution ratio of 50/50 - as though to give the speaker the responsive handling and agility of a super sports car. To redistribute the 'axle weights', the crossover pointshould be 700Hzto 800Hz so that tweeter and woofer each become responsible for roughly 5 octave.. yea dome mids just a big dome tweet with limited high end.. but dang make for some bitchin dynamics n power handling..

ahhh mabe one day i"ll win the lottery n design my own head unit..


----------



## tnbubba

come on pioneer fix it!!!!!!!

about the same odds as me winning the lottery


----------



## ErinH

tnbubba said:


> the balance between the tweeter and woofer of a two-way speaker with the front and rear weight distribution of a super sports car, the golden ratio would be a 50/50 balance. Alas, most two-way speakers are 70/30 top-heavy at best. The reason is two-fold. First, most conventional tweeter's narrow bandwidth limits their operation from 2.5kHz (or 2kHz) to 20kHz. This means 3, hardly 4 octaves. Second and as a result of the first, the woofer has to take on the unwieldy remaining burden of 6 to 7 octaves. This is asking for trouble. Her name is FMD - frequency modulation or Doppler distortion. That is a transitional form of behavior that occurs when the driver diaphragm simultaneously carries far-spaced frequencies while the frequency with the stronger sound pressure level causes fluctuations in the other. To limit FMD, the displacement and operating bandwidth of the mid/woofer must be optimized, which in the end limits useful bass output.
> 
> a more ideal top-to-bottom distribution ratio of 50/50 - as though to give the speaker the responsive handling and agility of a super sports car. To redistribute the 'axle weights', the crossover pointshould be 700Hzto 800Hz so that tweeter and woofer each become responsible for roughly 5 octave.. yea dome mids just a big dome tweet with limited high end.. but dang make for some bitchin dynamics n power handling..


I knew all of this sounded familiar...

6moons audio reviews: Mark & Daniel Diamond +


Ironically, you've pulled text from a review of a set of speakers my friend owns and I've heard a few times (picture below is from the demo setup we had at my get together last Spring). The irony is the text is almost soley focused on the Mark & Daniel AMT drivers; not a cone dome. 


6moons.com review said:


> Unlike a cone or dome, AMTs produce sound waves by squeezing air with pleated diaphragms that fold like accordion bellows mounted vertically with coils and magnets on both ends.


Furthermore, the driver type itself has MUCH less to do with why the reviewer on 6moons heard what he heard. The FR of those particular AMT's are HIDEOUS. The top end is boosted like nothing I've ever seen; a far cry from nominal and 'true to the recording' and certainly explains why there is an apparent increase in dynamics... but if you set your EQ to mimic that curve, you can expect similar highs and probably walk away with the same conclusion he did of those AMT's...
I have demoed them numerous times and they always grab you by the head but they are certainly not anything that I would personally own given my goals in having a reference system.

Point is: What you said above isn't really conclusive nor does it correlate to dome mids in the least since it's based on a set of speakers using AMT's. Honestly, I didn't intend to start a pissing match, I really was just joking around with you, but then I saw your reply with the above quoted text. I don't want folks thinking you were talking about domes, and it was a bit misleading since you didn't provide a link to the review you copied the text from. Domes certainly have their place. Those amts are a different story, though. 


Totally OT, but FWIW, here's Zaph's take on the AMT's reviewed above:


Zaph said:


> Lets start with the good: non-linear distortion is decent and these tweeters do indeed work very low. A steep 900 or 1000 Hz crossover would be fine.
> 
> Now for the bad news: everthing else about these tweeters was horrible. The response curve borders on unusable and the build quality is low. One tweeter arrived with a cracked faceplate, even though they seemed well packed. The damage was cosmetic only, however when the faceplate came off, a bunch of paint chips came with it, some of which got into the pleats. I was unsure of how that might affect the testing, so I only tested the other one. The other sample seemed fine. I inspected the pleats and there was no damage. The faceplate was loose however so I securely taped it down to prevent rattling before testing. The faceplate is just a 1/16" thick painted piece of plastic glued onto the stamped steel front. It looked like a cheap afterthought. The tweeter was tested on a proper countersunk baffle, open back. I did not test with an enclosure on the rear of the baffle, but of course you'll need one in a box system to prevent woofer pressure from affecting the tweeter membrane. I would expect that experimentation and lot of measurements would be needed to see what the optimal enclosure size would be.
> 
> ****** low ends are a trademark of most AMT based drivers. I've seen response curves of a few, like the Eton version for example. I could hear the 500 Hz resonance of this tweeter just by lightly blowing on the pleats. My guess is that the tweeter filter's transfer function had better be at least 30 or 40 dB down at 500Hz. If this isn't done, there will be audible issues right in the vocal range. Simple first or second order filters won't work well with this driver.
> 
> Could this tweeter sound good in a system? Yes, if you could manage to hammer the response curve into a workable shape. I see it as not worth the effort however, unless you happen to have a DEQX box around to do the hammering for you in the active digital domain. Or at least, an HT receiver with DSP EQ that does not suck. But even with active EQ, the low build quality could still be an issue.



Here's the info on the stuff my buddy owns:



bikinpunk said:


> A local record producer/engineer brought over some very $$$ gear and set it up in the garage to demo. I heard it WAILING couple times, so I know people were enjoying it.
> I got to have a session with them the night before the GTG and really was impressed with the dynamicism. Great sounding speakers. Too bad they're way out of my budget.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He went back to his house mid-day and picked up another set of the Mark & Daniel speakers to demo, as well as an Alesis CD player:


----------



## subwoofery

Nice... lol 

Kelvin


----------



## AndyInOC

For those of you who are using the auto eq with some success, how are you setting the unit up? It seems to me that it would make the most sense to set crossovers, then set gains and then run your auto tune procedure & fine tune everything after that. Am I on the right track or is setting gains up in the neighborhood of where you want them to be first a bad idea? Maybe be too loud for the mic during whatever the procedure is & cause more issues than it solves.


----------



## Accordman

so , im kinda a mixed bag with it...2 way its a cool unit, running 3 way isnt really an option since the crossovers dont really allow it. i cant bring my 3" below 1.2k and i cant take my 6.5" below 1.2k...i mean it sounds "okay" but not what i wanted at all. and that would be ok if i could set the crossover to full can set them on the amps but it doesnt allow me to just run it full.


----------



## tnbubba

yea i pulled it from that because i didn't feel like typing out all that crap!!!!!
but I've always liked any "good" 3way better than a 2 way.. more dynamic.. and seems to fill a room better.. and i;m old and cant hear **** so i like it loud.. sumin 2 ways no matter how good just cant do.. 

that AMT seems to have a lot of fans no matter what speaker I've never personally head them

oh well didn't win the dang lottery again this weekend..back to my crappy alpine

oh no no pissing match.. just pissin on pioneer for a big oversight IMO.. ur cool!!!


----------



## subwoofery

tnbubba said:


> yea i pulled it from that because i didn't feel like typing out all that crap!!!!!
> but I've always liked any "good" 3way better than a 2 way.. more dynamic.. and seems to fill a room better.. and i;m old and cant hear **** so i like it loud.. sumin 2 ways no matter how good just cant do..
> 
> that AMT seems to have a lot of fans no matter what speaker I've never personally head them
> 
> oh well didn't win the dang lottery again this weekend..back to my crappy alpine
> 
> oh no no pissing match.. just pissin on pioneer for a big oversight IMO.. ur cool!!!


To be honest, I've always felt that 2-ways were more dynamic than 3-ways... 
Due to the bigger cone reproducing 1kHz-4kHz (dynamic range) in a 2-way. 

90% of the time, 3-way comps use a driver smaller than 4.5" - some as small as 2". 

Kelvin


----------



## Griffin dai

Hi guys 1st post!

Can you connect a portable external hard drive to this or is it best to get something like a 64gb USB stick? Was thinking of a 250-500gb hard drive then rip all my CDs to it but at a higher bit rate or even FLAC if possible (All 128kbps at the moment on my iPhone so wanted better quality as it sounds crap in my new car!
Cheers, Dave


----------



## nismos14

subwoofery said:


> To be honest, I've always felt that 2-ways were more dynamic than 3-ways...
> Due to the bigger cone reproducing 1kHz-4kHz (dynamic range) in a 2-way.
> 
> 90% of the time, 3-way comps use a driver smaller than 4.5" - some as small as 2".
> 
> Kelvin


What different 2 and 3 way comps have you used? I would totally disagree with this.


----------



## subwoofery

nismos14 said:


> What different 2 and 3 way comps have you used? I would totally disagree with this.


I'm not gonna name which sets I've heard or used since there's probably a million I've never heard nor even seen... I'll tell you A, B and C and you're gonna reply to me with "but you did not hear D, E and F and is why you feel 3-way is less dynamic"... 

Now, just think about it for a minute, in a "normal" 3-way set, what size is the midrange most of the time? 2.5"? 3"? 4"? Ok 
Where do most people cross their midrange down to in order to have most of the vocal range coming through 1 speaker? 200Hz, even down to 160Hz. And as high as 8kHz but that doesn't matter much for my explanation. 

As stated in my earlier post, the dynamics is in the 1kHz and 4kHz range. 
A 2-way set usually crosses around 3kHz, some as high as 4kHz even though they fight with beaming @ the Xover point. Still works though... 

In a 2-way, you have a 5.25" or a 6.5" playing the dynamic range. 
In a 3-way, you have a 3" or a 4" playing the dynamic range. 

Heck in a 3-way, the smaller driver is playing down to 160Hz when the bigger driver can play this range with more authority... Hence being more dynamic in the upper midbass too... 

If we're talking about "dynamics", yes I do believe and have heard it that a 2-way can sound more dynamic than a 3-way. 
Now I'm making a general statement with most components in the industry: PPI, Focal, Brax, Helix, MB Quart, Dynaudio, etc... all use a smaller driver for midrange duties. Of course if you choose to use a 12" midbass, a 7" midrange and a planar as your 3-way, then of course the 3-way wins for dynamics.  

What a dedicated midrange helps though is in placement, aiming, higher Xover point, imaging/tonality and vocal reproduction... 

Kelvin


----------



## nismos14

In all my experience I have never had a 2 way sound more dynamic than my dyn setup, and I have gone through a lot of 2 -way setups. I think we can agree to disagree on this!


----------



## CrossFired

Griffin dai said:


> Hi guys 1st post!
> 
> Can you connect a portable external hard drive to this or is it best to get something like a 64gb USB stick? Was thinking of a 250-500gb hard drive then rip all my CDs to it but at a higher bit rate or even FLAC if possible (All 128kbps at the moment on my iPhone so wanted better quality as it sounds crap in my new car!
> Cheers, Dave


Just read the 51 pages and find out!! It's been brought up a few times in this tread.

Yes, in Wav format. No AIFF or Flac.


----------



## subwoofery

nismos14 said:


> In all my experience I have never had a 2 way sound more dynamic than my dyn setup, and I have gone through a lot of 2 -way setups. I think we can agree to disagree on this!


Well I'm glad you've found a 3-way that satisfy your needs  
I'm not bashing on a 3-way, just stating facts. I myself am planning to use a 3-way front system for my next project (2 months) from now due to the advantage I've numbered (placement option and higher Xover point). 

For my part, I've found "my" dynamic system to be with horns  Yes it's a 2-way but am planning to keep my 6.5" as a midrange and using 10" or 12" midbass in the rear quarter panel... 

Kelvin


----------



## tulse

I don't remember if it has been mentioned, but did anyone have the NW-STD (DSP) switch on the bottom hidden under a tab on the chassis of the HU. In fact, the switch and the labels were completely hidden under the front half of the metal chassis. I had to bend a tab back to see it, much less get to it.

Seems a really odd place to put a switch. Just want to make sure this one didn't get knocked out of whack along the way.


----------



## AndyInOC

tulse said:


> I don't remember if it has been mentioned, but did anyone have the NW-STD (DSP) switch on the bottom hidden under a tab on the chassis of the HU. In fact, the switch and the labels were completely hidden under the front half of the metal chassis. I had to bend a tab back to see it, much less get to it.
> 
> Seems a really odd place to put a switch. Just want to make sure this one didn't get knocked out of whack along the way.


I'm thinking its quite possible that you forgot to take the cage off before switching it


----------



## tulse

AndyInOC said:


> I'm thinking its quite possible that you forgot to take the cage off before switching it



Very possible. 

I didn't know you could to that.


----------



## AndyInOC

tulse said:


> Very possible.
> 
> I didn't know you could to that.


Pull off the face trim ring, slide the keys into the sides of the cage, cage slides backwards off the chassis.


----------



## duro78

Anyone know the voltage output of the rcas (f,r,s) in network mode? 

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

According to the spec, they are 5V. I don't know that anyone has actually measured to see if they actually hit 5V peak, or not.


----------



## duro78

rton20s said:


> According to the spec, they are 5V. I don't know that anyone has actually measured to see if they actually hit 5V peak, or not.


Correct me if I'm wrong but in network mode (3way) isn't there a difference in output between the sections? Like low will put out more voltage than high

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ErinH

duro78 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but in network mode (3way) isn't there a difference in output between the sections? Like low will put out more voltage than high
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


That would be really weird if it did. 






Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!!

So, the question I have is does the unit Up-sample everything to full 24/96 resolution?

Anyone happen to know?

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi America


----------



## rton20s

bikinpunk said:


> That would be really weird if it did.


Agreed. Each should put out the same peak voltage. That voltage will vary depending on the source material being output through the RCAs. 

In terms of low vs. high, you will see lower (5v peak) out of the RCAs compared to the speaker level outputs which make use of the on-board amp.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!!
> 
> So, the question I have is does the unit Up-sample everything to full 24/96 resolution?
> 
> Anyone happen to know?
> 
> Nick Wingate
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal/Mosconi America


Probably to 48kHz.


----------



## dkh

subwoofery said:


> Well I'm glad you've found a 3-way that satisfy your needs
> I'm not bashing on a 3-way, just stating facts. I myself am planning to use a 3-way front system for my next project (2 months) from now due to the advantage I've numbered (placement option and higher Xover point).
> 
> For my part, I've found "my" dynamic system to be with horns  Yes it's a 2-way but am planning to keep my 6.5" as a midrange and using 10" or 12" midbass in the rear quarter panel...
> 
> Kelvin


Have you ever crossed a bandpassed midbass from 200hz to 5khz and watched the cone move? I have tried it and it hardly moves.

The advantage as you pointed out is the 3" / 4" driver has less mass and therefore reacts much quicker - and, it can be placed in a much better position.

IMO


----------



## subwoofery

dkh said:


> Have you ever crossed a bandpassed midbass from 200hz to 5khz and watched the cone move? I have tried it and it hardly moves.
> 
> The advantage as you pointed out is the 3" / 4" driver has less mass and therefore reacts much quicker - and, it can be placed in a much better position.
> 
> IMO


I've been using (and still am) the Focal K3P set since 2004 and it's midrange is a 6.5" driver - midbass is also a 6.5" driver. 
Now my question, have you ever heard an 8" driver playing 200Hz to about 2.5kHz? What about a 12" in a club playing midrange only? 
I can tell you that NO 4" driver will EVER match its dynamic capabilities - not talking about power compression either. 

Not seeing the cone move doesn't mean it's not moving air. There's a certain somebody that won last year's final using a 7" driver as a midrange IB playing up to 5kHz if I'm not mistaken - that person choose a 7" for it's dynamic capabilities. 

And please note that I'm talking about dynamics here and always had since my post regarding this... although you can make a 12" image fine too 

Kelvin


----------



## Griffin dai

CrossFired said:


> Just read the 51 pages and find out!! It's been brought up a few times in this tread.
> 
> Yes, in Wav format. No AIFF or Flac.


Just read the whole thread...took a few days but got there in the end! Jeez you guys across the pond don't half enjoy a good argument :laugh:

So for the best quality its WAV format. Is there much of an audible difference between 320kbps and WAV or not worth it & just rip my cd's to 320? I'll be going for this Pioneer next week, was torn between this and the Alpine CDA-117r but from what I've read on here and another forum I think I'd need a pxa processor to get the same effect? Can get it for £259 back here.


----------



## pionkej

Just got mine yesterday and it will be going in the car tonight. With no midbass ATM, I won't be able to post thoughts for a bit, but I'm excited about getting it in and getting my AVH-p8400 out. 

Also no crack/tooling mark at the microphone input on mine.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Griffin dai said:


> Just read the whole thread...took a few days but got there in the end! Jeez you guys across the pond don't half enjoy a good argument :laugh:
> 
> So for the best quality its WAV format. Is there much of an audible difference between 320kbps and WAV or not worth it & just rip my cd's to 320? I'll be going for this Pioneer next week, was torn between this and the Alpine CDA-117r but from what I've read on here and another forum I think I'd need a pxa processor to get the same effect? Can get it for £259 back here.


Not worth it. As long as the mp3 encoder is a good quality like LAME, you won't be able to tell the mp3 from the original uncompressed version. Especially in a car.

For those that disagree and can easily tell, please save your responses until you can provide proof that you accomplished this using a proper double blind ABX comparison session.

Now let me have it!


----------



## captainobvious

subwoofery said:


> Well I'm glad you've found a 3-way that satisfy your needs
> I'm not bashing on a 3-way, just stating facts. I myself am planning to use a 3-way front system for my next project (2 months) from now due to the advantage I've numbered (placement option and higher Xover point).
> 
> For my part, I've found "my" dynamic system to be with horns  Yes it's a 2-way but am planning to keep my 6.5" as a midrange and using 10" or 12" midbass in the rear quarter panel...
> 
> Kelvin


I don't think it necessarily depends on 2-way or 3-way per se, moreso that you get much more focused dynamic sound (IMO) when you have most of, if not all of the vocal range coming from one driver. I think this is why Ive become such a huge fan of wideband drivers. I just can't seem to get great transitions in the 1-3k range where most sets have their crossover points focused.


----------



## subwoofery

captainobvious said:


> I don't think it necessarily depends on 2-way or 3-way per se, moreso that you get much more focused dynamic sound (IMO) when you have most of, if not all of the vocal range coming from one driver. I think this is why Ive become such a huge fan of wideband drivers. I just can't seem to get great transitions in the 1-3k range where most sets have their crossover points focused.


Well it's true that a Xover point right in the middle of the vocal band is hard to pull off... 

Kelvin


----------



## tulse

Was there any confirmation this unit uses a Pico fuse or not. I'm getting noise (slight alt whine), which goes away when I swap back in my old HU.


I've been careful with grounding amps first and not hot swapping.


----------



## Aussierox

Anyone know why that model on page 34 doesn't have a bluetooth in the top corner and has a C button instead?


----------



## captainobvious

tulse said:


> Was there any confirmation this unit uses a Pico fuse or not. I'm getting noise (slight alt whine), which goes away when I swap back in my old HU.
> 
> 
> I've been careful with grounding amps first and not hot swapping.


Try switching grounding location, or ground direct to the battery.


----------



## tulse

captainobvious said:


> Try switching grounding location, or ground direct to the battery.


I tried grounding the HU and the HU chassis all over the place. I have been on a grounding rampage the last few days. I should make myself a cape with a G on the back. I upgraded my amp grounds to the frame through the rear of the cabin (run is less than 3') and my battery ground to the frame in front directly under the battery with 4 gauge ---sanded, no zinc bolts, tapped holes--- the whole bit. I assume the RCAs are fine since I have no noise with an old HU. It's driving me loopy. 

I'll keep at it today. I'm going to try disconnecting the running lights, I guess, just to rule that out.


----------



## CrossFired

tulse said:


> I tried grounding the HU and the HU chassis all over the place. I have been on a grounding rampage the last few days. I should make myself a cape with a G on the back. I upgraded my amp grounds to the frame through the rear of the cabin (run is less than 3') and my battery ground to the frame in front directly under the battery with 4 gauge ---sanded, no zinc bolts, taped holes--- the whole bit. I assume the RCAs are fine since I have no noise with an old HU. It's driving me loopy.
> 
> I'll keep at it today. I'm going to try disconnecting the running lights, I guess, just to rule that out.


It's more likely an amp issue. When I went from my 880 to the 80, I got alt whine on AM. knowing AM can be hard to get clean, I started checking amps.

Turn out one of my Crossfire VR401's was the cause. I had a 4 ch Boston in the closet, So I bridged it, and installed it. Noise gone!

But, The 880 was fine with this amp! I guess the 80 is more sensitive to dirty electronics in amps.


----------



## AndyInOC

Griffin dai said:


> Just read the whole thread...took a few days but got there in the end! Jeez you guys across the pond don't half enjoy a good argument :laugh:
> 
> So for the best quality its WAV format. Is there much of an audible difference between 320kbps and WAV or not worth it & just rip my cd's to 320? I'll be going for this Pioneer next week, was torn between this and the Alpine CDA-117r but from what I've read on here and another forum I think I'd need a pxa processor to get the same effect? Can get it for £259 back here.


Just for giggles yesterday I converted some random files to both 320 mp3 and 16 bit wav files and plugged the flash drive into the pioneer. Both formats sounded great and now I can't decide if I want to upgrade the hd in my ipod or just buy a 250gb portable hd and roll with that instead.


----------



## squishytomato

Has anyone tested their 80prs with a o-scope or dd-1 to determine the volume number it starts clipping at?


----------



## ErinH

5V rms.

*BUT getting 5v out is nearly impossible.*
Here's why:
Using a 0dB 1khz tone, the preout voltage with all settings to flat (no eq, no boost), the output voltage measures about 1.2v rms. 
If I increase the source level volume by 4, the maximum, the output voltage gets to around 3v. 
If I then increase all the eq bands +2dB, I can get to about 4.5v but the frequency response is a jigsaw +1/-1dB where without the +2dB it's flat. 

If I send a HOT signal out of my signal generator and in to the 80prs via the aux input, I can get the output to around 5v before it clips.
One interesting thing is that the voltage jump from volume 61/62 and 62/62 is pretty substantial compared to the rest of the variable pot voltage. It jumps nearly a full volt, iirc. I'll have to double check the numbers. I'm going to make a video of it.

So, that said, the maximum you're probably going to get is about 3v and that's by boosting the source level. I DO NOT recommend boosting all the EQ bands up to get 4-5v. Leave the headroom at the deck and enjoy it. 

John suggested seeing what the output is via the speaker outs, but then you're dealing with the internal amp... I'm not sure of the signal quality of that vs. using the pre-outs. I can measure it. 

I've got all this data saved. I'll be posting it on my site soon.


----------



## pionkej

I'll add that when Erin tested this unit it did not clip at 62/62. That means max volume and no clipping. 

Also, before people freak out that the voltage is lower than it seems, I measured 110db+ (at the listening position, in the midrange, using sine sweeps, this is LOUD) yesterday and had zero noise floor issues. No static, alt whine, or turn-on pops. 

NOTE:I do have a processor (6to8) that bumps the voltage to around 4v, but it's at the back of the car by the amps. This means that if the P80 had issues with the voltage and noise rejection, I'd still hear it.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> 5V rms.
> 
> *BUT getting 5v out is nearly impossible.*
> Here's why:
> Using a 0dB 1khz tone, the preout voltage with all settings to flat (no eq, no boost), the output voltage measures about 1.2v rms.
> If I increase the source level volume by 4, the maximum, the output voltage gets to around 3v.
> If I then increase all the eq bands +2dB, I can get to about 4.5v but the frequency response is a jigsaw +1/-1dB where without the +2dB it's flat.
> 
> If I send a HOT signal out of my signal generator and in to the 80prs via the aux input, I can get the output to around 5v before it clips.
> One interesting thing is that the voltage jump from volume 61/62 and 62/62 is pretty substantial compared to the rest of the variable pot voltage. It jumps nearly a full volt, iirc. I'll have to double check the numbers. I'm going to make a video of it.
> 
> So, that said, the maximum you're probably going to get is about 3v and that's by boosting the source level. I DO NOT recommend boosting all the EQ bands up to get 4-5v. Leave the headroom at the deck and enjoy it.
> 
> John suggested seeing what the output is via the speaker outs, but then you're dealing with the internal amp... I'm not sure of the signal quality of that vs. using the pre-outs. I can measure it.
> 
> I've got all this data saved. I'll be posting it on my site soon.


Just to add to what Erin said.......

"0dB" in simple terms signifies that loudest digital signal that can be send to a units output stage for conversion to analog. Music peaks hit this point, every other level is seen as a -x dB below that 0 mark.

And the reason why there is such a high jump in voltage toward the end of a master volume control's setting is the master volume control uses a LOG function to plot the point in which each volume setting sits at. This is because our hearing perceives loudness in this slowly progressing loudness curve. If it volume point were set at a linear fashion the sound would seem really loud right away and not seem much louder toward the end of the volume range. Below is a link and chart that explains and illustrates how this works. 

Programming Volume Controls










"x" is the linear plot. "exp" is the LOG curve that is used in master volume control. See how the "y" axis (ie output voltage) hardly charges thought out the whole range, but at the end it starts doubling in the last 1/4 of the volume range (ie the "x" axis). 

Now what does that tell you about the importance of clipping points at near max volume setting if we set gains to 3/4 master volume setting.


----------



## bugmenot

Question, in the initial settings (when you turn the h/u off and access the settings there)

Is there an FM/AM step option?


----------



## Aussierox

bugmenot said:


> Question, in the initial settings (when you turn the h/u off and access the settings there)
> 
> Is there an FM/AM step option?


On mine there is however I don't have Bluetooth.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Kinda a general question that I've never known the answer to since I've never had a handsfree bluetooth deck. When a call comes in, say from an iphone hooked up to USB and linked via bluetooth, is there a way to set it so the call doesn't interrupt the music? Is it possible to have it ring and display through the phone only, and then it mutes if and only if you accept the call? 

I don't know about you guys but I would find it completely unacceptable to have a song be cut off every time I was jamming and someone called. Or even paused a sec to let a text alert through, which will happen much more often typically.


----------



## SH00T

You'll have to turn off your BT, messaging is fine, but calls will interupt your Jammin'.
But thats why you turned on the BT right...

The unit will connect to your BT when the car is on and the deck is off, the handsfree will start up the deck just to take your call and turn off afterwards...


----------



## t3sn4f2

SH00T said:


> You'll have to turn off your BT, messaging is fine, but calls will interupt your Jammin'.
> *But thats why you turned on the BT right...*
> The unit will connect to your BT when the car is on and the deck is off, the handsfree will start up the deck just to take your call and turn off afterwards...


Well not really. I turn it on to be able to talk without using my hands. I prefer to hold the phone and talk, but I can't do that since then I won't have USB. Also the re-tards that like to update their facebook status while driving have ruined it for us that can actually drive with one hand and hold a conversation with an inanimate object on the other. Since when is it ok to hold a stick shift and talk to someone next to you while driving and not ok to hold a phone and talk to someone not next to you. Anyways, mini-rant over. 

Put a freaking red light on the head unit that blinks when I am getting a call. Hell do anything else, but I don't need to have a ****ing PA that I have a called. That's just some gimmicky BS that done to impress you with tech, but in reality it is an inconvenience. 

Don't even get me started on driving around your town with the GPS screen front and center instead of the media screen that you are listening to.


----------



## _Rom_

Okay, here's a stupid question. Or few.

On USB 1, I had a stick, with some random songs in root folder, and some albums in separate folders.
I could press up and down and cycle folders, all songs were displayed in correct album order etc.

Something happened... 

Now I can no longer use up and down to cycle folders, and if I use music search to find an album, all the songs are alphabetical.
Also all songs are viewable from root, in alphabetical order. Not the order they were in.

Audio over Bluetooth....
Does it not show track name etc? I just get device name at the top. No track names etc. 

Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


----------



## bugmenot

Aussierox said:


> On mine there is however I don't have Bluetooth.


Ok. How about anyone with a local USA model...could someone check?

Thanks 

And if you manually are tuning the FM radio...what jumps does it make? ie. 87.1-> 87.2 OR 87.0 -> 87.2?


----------



## CrossFired

_Rom_ said:


> Okay, here's a stupid question. Or few.
> 
> On USB 1, I had a stick, with some random songs in root folder, and some albums in separate folders.
> I could press up and down and cycle folders, all songs were displayed in correct album order etc.
> 
> Something happened...
> 
> Now I can no longer use up and down to cycle folders, and if I use music search to find an album, all the songs are alphabetical.
> Also all songs are viewable from root, in alphabetical order. Not the order they were in.


Turn the music browser on or off.


----------



## abdulwq

how is it compared to p800rs?


----------



## abdulwq

i read somewhere on the forum that it lacks warmth.


----------



## ErinH

abdulwq said:


> i read somewhere on the forum that it lacks warmth.


What? Why would you want a deck that adds anythig anyway? 

The simple answer is:
Whoever said that does not need to speak on audio components again.


----------



## tulse

dietDrThunder said:


> lol...no ****...it isn't beeping when you're driving down the road playing music.
> 
> example that actually makes sense: every step of manual TA adjustment beeps. That's a range of 0" - 160" , in .5" increments. When I sit in the car tuning it, I spend 30 minutes or more (initially a lot more) adjusting this setting over and over (and over). Not only is it annoying, but when I'm trying to hear phasing artifacts between the mids and the tweeters, the freq of the beep interferes (psychologically, not literally w/ the phase) making it very difficult to adjust by ear, for me anyway.


The beep is driving me up a bloody wall. I doubt I'm going to able to TA by ear because of it. 

Beep must die! Die filthy beep!


----------



## t3sn4f2

abdulwq said:


> i read somewhere on the forum that it lacks warmth.


That shouldn't be much of a problem. Just tuck it in nice and cozy in the dash and it'll warm right up. :smart::thumbsup:


----------



## AndyInOC

tulse said:


> The beep is driving me up a bloody wall. I doubt I'm going to able to TA by ear because of it.
> 
> Beep must die! Die filthy beep!


Maybe I just listen louder than most but I barely hear the beep I just hear my poor choices in music gushing forth and making me happy


----------



## rton20s

Hmm… I thought they went with the all black face on the DEH-80PRS (instead of black and silver like the DEH-P9400BH) to help add warmth.


----------



## tulse

AndyInOC said:


> Maybe I just listen louder than most but I barely hear the beep I just hear my poor choices in music gushing forth and making me happy


I might be fixating on it, but I've tried a few times and to my simple mind it's like jiggling keys in front a baby - I just can't concentrate on anything else. I'll have to allow WOPR to auto TA for me and be happy. I'll try again a deafening levels first, though. 

I do have OmniMic V2. Anyone have any idea if it can be used to clue in on those "phase incoherencies" mentioned here:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...gnment-using-only-noise-tracks-your-ears.html


----------



## ChrisB

AndyInOC said:


> Maybe I just listen louder than most but I barely hear the beep I just hear my poor choices in music gushing forth and making me happy


Skrillex and Deadmau5 have ruined your ears!:laugh:


----------



## AndyInOC

ChrisB said:


> Skrillex and Deadmau5 have ruined your ears!:laugh:


Correct on skrillex but the normal choices are far worse (for sq) pennywise, booze & glory, the real mckenzies, world inferno friendship society..... Just to name a few haha.

Still playing with the auto eq & t/a stuff, but most of my results so far have kept me pretty happy.


----------



## nervewrecker

jbowers said:


> Auto tune dialed my sub output back to -20, so I just rolled it on back up to about -4 and I was happy again.


-20 is still good, I got -24 :laugh:

turned it back up to -4


----------



## tulse

nervewrecker said:


> -20 is still good, I got -24 :laugh:
> 
> turned it back up to -4


It cuts both tweeters -11dB and barely touches the rest. 

I have issues with blind trust, but it sounds fantastic after auto tuning.


----------



## AndyInOC

nervewrecker said:


> -20 is still good, I got -24 :laugh:
> 
> turned it back up to -4





tulse said:


> It cuts both tweeters -11dB and barely touches the rest.
> 
> I have issues with blind trust, but it sounds fantastic after auto tuning.


I must be doing something wrong because it cuts the sub to -20ish & tweets to -7 and the t/a distances are all wonky. I'm 100% certain all speakers are in phase so ill guess its a result of gain settings being off.


----------



## nervewrecker

-24 on the sub, -3 on mid with the xover point shifted to 100Hz and high and eq was not touched. 

I think the TA is off and the center is a little to the left. This may be as a result of me putting the mic facing upward and not facing forward, I shall retry lol.

I put back my sub at -4 with a 18db slope and xover point at 30-somthing Hz and my mid at 63hz with a 12db slope. Sounds better like that.


----------



## Big Ry

Anyone with an android phone, does it display the artist/track when streaming music via BT? How about Pandora streaming? And can either be controlled by the deck? (I can only skip tracks/skip a Pandora song on my 9800BT)

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ChrisB

If Clarion doesn't release their CZ702 soon, I may just have to forgo my Soundstream 3 ways, order this deck, and use my Genesis 2 way components instead. Then again, the way my luck goes, Clarion would change their active crossover and limit the tweeter to 1.2 kHz versus the DXZ785USB which would let one do just about anything on the tweeter.


----------



## SH00T

abdulwq said:


> i read somewhere on the forum that it lacks warmth.


After having having the unit a week now, it keeps getting better and better, but thats my learning curve, at first I found it it overly bright, but that was just the tuning, it didnt seem as warm as the JVC 926BT i had before, but I would call it transparent.....

I also had an issue with the mike placement, as out of the book, sticking it to the headrest and running the auto, was dissapointing to say the least.
A quick fix was tilting the seat forward til the mike was really where my ears really are, thats about six inches forward in my magna, or Diamante for you US citizens...

As for the units again, amp choice is very important, with the market trending to D-class amps, its easy to say the unit lacks warmth, I'm very much considering moving to a AB class front stage amp, which are typically warmer than a D, or moving away from focal tweets and moving to a silk dome set....

One thing I have noticed about the car audio scene ( over here anyway), not many ppl pair up amps and speakers with their sonic traits, to nett a great sound.


----------



## t3sn4f2

SH00T said:


> After having having the unit a week now, it keeps getting better and better, but thats my learning curve, at first I found it it overly bright, but that was just the tuning, it didnt seem as warm as the JVC 926BT i had before, but I would call it transparent.....
> 
> I also had an issue with the mike placement, as out of the book, sticking it to the headrest and running the auto, was dissapointing to say the least.
> A quick fix was tilting the seat forward til the mike was really where my ears really are, thats about six inches forward in my magna, or Diamante for you US citizens...
> 
> As for the units again, amp choice is very important, with the market trending to D-class amps, its easy to say the unit lacks warmth, I'm very much considering moving to a AB class front stage amp, which are typically warmer than a D, or moving away from focal tweets and moving to a silk dome set....
> 
> *One thing I have noticed about the car audio scene ( over here anyway), not many ppl pair up amps and speakers with their sonic traits, to nett a great sound*.


There's a good reason for that. Click on my signature to see why.


----------



## _Rom_

Big Ry said:


> Anyone with an android phone, does it display the artist/track when streaming music via BT? How about Pandora streaming? And can either be controlled by the deck? (I can only skip tracks/skip a Pandora song on my 9800BT)
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


No it doesn't over BT. Can control tracks on HU though. But no names displayed.

Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


----------



## Big Ry

_Rom_ said:


> No it doesn't over BT. Can control tracks on HU though. But no names displayed.
> 
> Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


OK thanks

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kalvc

Hey guys, I'm new to car audio and just put together my first sound system.

I have a few questions about the settings on my 80PRS. I am running the HAT Unity components with the passive crossovers on two channels of my amp and bridging the other two channels for the sub.

Speakers:	HAT Unity
Amplifier:	Clarion XH5410
Subwoofer:	Image Dynamics 10" IDQv2

1) What position (Front Left, Front Right, Front, All, or Off) would be most optimal for the auto time alignment, considering I have a 2-seater convertible? (Honda S2000)

2) What settings should I be setting for the Front HPF 1, Front HPF 2, Rear HPF 1, and Rear HPF 2? I have the rears connected but I'm turning off the internal amp so I'm guessing the rears don't really matter. Should the front dB setting be set to PASS? How about the L: 100Hz and R: 100Hz part? Does it all matter since I'm not running active?

Thanks!


----------



## rton20s

So I take it you are running in standard mode and not network mode? I think most of what you are asking is going to need to be adjusted by ear, but I’ll try and give you some base starting points. 

Question 1… I would start with Front Left and then go play with it from there. 

Question 2… 
F.HPF.1: -12 dB
F.HPF.2: 63 Hz or 80 Hz
Output Level: 0

If you aren’t running the rears at all, you might want to consider just muting them all together. And while what you are working with now is fine, you may want to consider picking up a dedicated subwoofer amp or 5 channel amp in the future. With your current setup, you really aren’t making full use of your head unit in either standard or network mode. 

Adding dedicated amplification for the subwoofer would allow you to either add in your rear fill (off of the channels currently used for the sub on your XH5410), or even better go fully active on your Unity components up front (2 channels for mids, 2 channels for tweeters). Really with an S2000, I don’t really see a need for rear fill and you would no longer need your passive crossovers with this head unit in network mode.


----------



## flovv

Hey,

I bought the DEH-80PRS 1-2 weeks ago and I have a big problem with it! Every time I do a auto-eq it sets my rear speakers to 125 hz with a 12 db slope and as far as I can tell the eq there after as well as they are kinda "dead" in the back 
If I swich the front and rear speakers, only the signal cable, so that the HU thinks the fronts are the backs and vice versa, then it still cutoff the rear (now the fronts) at 125 hz with a 12 db slope.
Even if I lower the cutoff to 50 hz or change the slope to pass for the rear speakers it still sounds alot toned down, even though it get a little more bass.
I down know if the Hu respect a preset cutoff before performing a auto-eq, but for the fronts it seems that is does (have them at 50 hz / pass now, was 80 hz / pass from factory and as well after a few auto-eqs)

Should the HU really cutoff at 125 hz / 12 db slope every time for the rears?

Also wonder if the "Resetting the microprocessor" should reset the unit to default as when I do this, all settings are kept and I want to do a factory default reset, is this not possible?

The rest of my components:
Fronts: Focal 165vrs
Rears: Focal 165vr
Amp: Audison LRx 4.5

Note: Sub not mounted yet.

I have tried to fix this the past two evnings with very little result and I am very gratefull for all help I can get!
/Stefan


----------



## CDjunkie

rton20s said:


> Really with an S2000, I don’t really see a need for rear fill and you would no longer need your passive crossovers with this head unit in network mode.


Agreed. Had I put all the money I spent in roll hoop speaker solutions, into better door speakers, I would have saved a lot of time and netted a better result. 

And kalvc, I'm assuming you're talking about the OEM hoop speakers. In which case, you for sure don't need those. Sounds like you've got a good foundation started, just need to keep building it up.


----------



## nervewrecker

question: is there a way to turn off the bluetooth? I am seeing in the manual its saying that its always on standby. 
I leave my ignition wire connected to my 12v so I dont have to turn on the ignition to hear my music (like when I a cleaning the car etc) plus it makes an annoying pinging noise (that is usually louder than the volume I cross when the car is switched off). Over the past few days I have noticed my battery resting voltage dropped from 12.4 to 12.0v. 
any solutions guys?


----------



## spl152db

nervewrecker said:


> question: is there a way to turn off the bluetooth? I am seeing in the manual its saying that its always on standby.
> I leave my ignition wire connected to my 12v so I dont have to turn on the ignition to hear my music (like when I a cleaning the car etc) plus it makes an annoying pinging noise (that is usually louder than the volume I cross when the car is switched off). Over the past few days I have noticed my battery resting voltage dropped from 12.4 to 12.0v.
> any solutions guys?


Are you kidding me? Turn the radio off. Or better yet hook it up properly and use the acc position on your key like you should. If its the chime that bothers you create a disconnect for it. Seriously. Send to dumb questions forum. 


Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## IBcivic

spl152db said:


> Are you kissing me?


Get a room!:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## spl152db

IBcivic said:


> Get a room!:laugh::laugh::laugh:


Lmao I fixed it. 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## kalvc

rton20s said:


> If you aren’t running the rears at all, you might want to consider just muting them all together. And while what you are working with now is fine, you may want to consider picking up a dedicated subwoofer amp or 5 channel amp in the future. With your current setup, you really aren’t making full use of your head unit in either standard or network mode.
> 
> Adding dedicated amplification for the subwoofer would allow you to either add in your rear fill (off of the channels currently used for the sub on your XH5410), or even better go fully active on your Unity components up front (2 channels for mids, 2 channels for tweeters). Really with an S2000, I don’t really see a need for rear fill and you would no longer need your passive crossovers with this head unit in network mode.





CDjunkie said:


> Agreed. Had I put all the money I spent in roll hoop speaker solutions, into better door speakers, I would have saved a lot of time and netted a better result.
> 
> And kalvc, I'm assuming you're talking about the OEM hoop speakers. In which case, you for sure don't need those. Sounds like you've got a good foundation started, just need to keep building it up.


Nah, I have no plans for rear fill at all. They're going to be connected to the headunit and that's why I'm going to turn the internal amp off. I was just wondering if the Rear HPF settings would matter once I did that.

I've already read up on active and what not, but I am holding out on that since I don't want to throw another amp in my S2000. That's the reason I decided to go with the Unity over the Imagine speakers.

Thanks for the advice, gonna start messing around with it after it's all connected. I just got the headunit and speakers installed for now and the doors sound deadened. It's decent so far, but nothing great.. hopefully the difference after amping them and hooking up the IDQ will make a dramatic improvement!


----------



## yhzmazda5

Has anyone bought this deck in Canada yet? The Canadian Pioneer site says coming in Spring 2012...


----------



## IBcivic

yhzmazda5 said:


> Has anyone bought this deck in Canada yet? The Canadian Pioneer site says coming in Spring 2012...


It is available from a Canuk online vendor(authorized) . I have it bookmarked on my home computer. I'll pm you the link, tonight.


EDIT>>>HERE YOU GO http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=13&productId=10197&sku=DEH80PRS


----------



## IBcivic

The prices have been going up n down...just keep an eye out for price drops.


----------



## flovv

flovv said:


> Hey,
> 
> I bought the DEH-80PRS 1-2 weeks ago and I have a big problem with it! Every time I do a auto-eq it sets my rear speakers to 125 hz with a 12 db slope and as far as I can tell the eq there after as well as they are kinda "dead" in the back
> If I swich the front and rear speakers, only the signal cable, so that the HU thinks the fronts are the backs and vice versa, then it still cutoff the rear (now the fronts) at 125 hz with a 12 db slope.
> Even if I lower the cutoff to 50 hz or change the slope to pass for the rear speakers it still sounds alot toned down, even though it get a little more bass.
> I down know if the Hu respect a preset cutoff before performing a auto-eq, but for the fronts it seems that is does (have them at 50 hz / pass now, was 80 hz / pass from factory and as well after a few auto-eqs)
> 
> Should the HU really cutoff at 125 hz / 12 db slope every time for the rears?
> 
> Also wonder if the "Resetting the microprocessor" should reset the unit to default as when I do this, all settings are kept and I want to do a factory default reset, is this not possible?
> 
> The rest of my components:
> Fronts: Focal 165vrs
> Rears: Focal 165vr
> Amp: Audison LRx 4.5
> 
> Note: Sub not mounted yet.
> 
> I have tried to fix this the past two evnings with very little result and I am very gratefull for all help I can get!
> /Stefan


Nobody that knows if the HU should cutoff at 125 hz / 12 db slope every time for the rears a auto-eq is performed?

I know that i'm a new member, but have been here for a while just lurking in the back. So please, people that own the HU, can you please check the cutoff for your rears after a auto eq??
Also if someone knows how it works, is this correct or not?

/Stefan


----------



## RYDMOTO

I just purchased the DEH-80PRS for 289.00 at J&R. There is a 15.00 off the normal 300.00 back ordered price...


----------



## AndyInOC

flovv said:


> Nobody that knows if the HU should cutoff at 125 hz / 12 db slope every time for the rears a auto-eq is performed?
> 
> I know that i'm a new member, but have been here for a while just lurking in the back. So please, people that own the HU, can you please check the cutoff for your rears after a auto eq??
> Also if someone knows how it works, is this correct or not?
> 
> /Stefan


I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that 99% of the people here who own this deck aren't running rears.


----------



## nervewrecker

spl152db said:


> Are you kidding me? Turn the radio off. Or better yet hook it up properly and use the acc position on your key like you should. If its the chime that bothers you create a disconnect for it. Seriously. Send to dumb questions forum.
> 
> 
> Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


Actually what I was thinking was to put a switch on the ignition wire so when the car is not being used I can kill the head unit and the bluetooth. 
If I am eating lunch or studying in it switch it on and use the music. No need for the ignition and to cut any wires. The 'ping' comes on if you remove the keys and leave the headlights / park lights on (very helpful reminder for when my mom uses the car). 

Is that sensible?


----------



## flovv

AndyInOC said:


> I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that 99% of the people here who own this deck aren't running rears.


Is that so ?
How come, no point in rears? 

/Stefan


----------



## CrossFired

flovv said:


> Is that so ?
> How come, no point in rears?
> 
> /Stefan


Rears just mess with the stage. I've done it both ways with the same system, and it just sounds better with fronts only. Plus you get so much more control in network mode.


----------



## rton20s

I checked my rear crossover on the stock speakers in my xB. The cut off is 125 Hz with a -12 dB slope. So it could very well be that this is what the 80PRS defaults to. I'm hoping to make the switch over ASAP to an active front stage and ditch the rear fill.


----------



## Big Ry

Boom! I just ordered an 80prs from JR for $284.99  So stoked to get it and go active again!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## chad

nervewrecker said:


> Actually what I was thinking was to put a switch on the ignition wire so when the car is not being used I can kill the head unit and the bluetooth.
> If I am eating lunch or studying in it switch it on and use the music. No need for the ignition and to cut any wires. The 'ping' comes on if you remove the keys and leave the headlights / park lights on (very helpful reminder for when my mom uses the car).
> 
> Is that sensible?


you need a small SPST switch tucked away and TWO DIODES. The diodes prevent the feed from the switch from energizing the ACC circuit and vice versa.


----------



## ou812

I want to thank everyone in this thread that have posted all the tips and tricks of this hu. I received one of these the other day for my birthday and I have found a lot of very useful info in this thread by doing one thing....reading. Like most of diy if you search and read the answer is usually there. thanks all again.


----------



## jmontoya21

Big Ry said:


> Boom! I just ordered an 80prs from JR for $284.99  So stoked to get it and go active again!
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


how you get it for 284.99 coupon code ? can you share?
how long did they say for delivery? thanks


----------



## Gargat

Just got this unit installed and really pleased so far. 

I am going to try the auto-tune next. Will the process play test tones at full volume? Wondering if I should turn the amp gains down first to be safe or leave them as I have set them. 

Also, does setting the sub output to mono sum the left and right channels and output it over the right RCA?


----------



## Big Ry

jmontoya21 said:


> how you get it for 284.99 coupon code ? can you share?
> how long did they say for delivery? thanks


Memorial day sale. $15 off orders over $150 with coupon code MEMORIALDAY. No word on delivery time as I did it all online through the site. 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## RYDMOTO

jmontoya21 said:


> how you get it for 284.99 coupon code ? can you share?
> how long did they say for delivery? thanks


When catching this deal you have to call J&R. When you are on their website and get to the 80PRS page it tells you to call for latest pricing. So when I called
the assistant he gave me the price of $300.00 and at the same time told me about the Memorial day $15.00 off so he added it on the spot. You cannot order this unit online and add a coupon code. I believe because it is on backorder. If I recall right he said a June 2nd ship date. I didn't matter to me at the time as I am not in a hurry to get it. There is also free shipping but I added delivery by UPS for another dollar or so.


----------



## ErinH

RYDMOTO said:


> When catching this deal you have to call J&R. When you are on their website and get to the 80PRS page it tells you to call for latest pricing. So when I called
> the assistant he gave me the price of $300.00 and at the same time told me about the Memorial day $15.00 off so he added it on the spot. You cannot order this unit online and add a coupon code. I believe because it is on backorder. If I recall right he said a June 2nd ship date. I didn't matter to me at the time as I am not in a hurry to get it. There is also free shipping but I added delivery by UPS for another dollar or so.


I ordered mine through the site yesterday and used the memorial day code. Got it for $284.99 shipped. 




Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## RYDMOTO

bikinpunk said:


> I ordered mine through the site yesterday and used the memorial day code. Got it for $284.99 shipped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


I stand corrected then  Thanks for clearing that up for others.


----------



## SH00T

Under 300, Pioneer Australia want us to charged 799.00
With no online stockist.....


----------



## subwoofery

Isn't the AUD stronger than the USD right now? 

Kelvin


----------



## rton20s

Almost even. $1 USD = $1.02 AUD.


----------



## CrossFired

SH00T said:


> Under 300, Pioneer Australia want us to charged 799.00
> With no online stockist.....


I'll ship you a new one for $444.


----------



## SH00T

CrossFired said:


> I'll ship you a new one for $444.


Thanks for the offer, but what would I do with two????

THe TA seems a bit messy... 
I had the JVC 926BT before this and the center stage worked just great...
All the measurements are inconsistant...
I'm driving what you guys call a Diamante.. 
Focal 165KR2 Active/Network
Alpine type R 12" SWR 1222 not the JL in the Pics...
Pics
Any tips pls????


----------



## darrenforeal

does anyone know if it is possible to modify the HU to have it's high pass for the high channel lower than 1.25khz? Say to 200hz?


----------



## Griffin dai

Mines turned up today! Quick question as I don't want to break it! How does the front plate come off? Don't fancy forcing it and it breaks 6 hours into ownership!!


----------



## ChrisB

darrenforeal said:


> does anyone know if it is possible to modify the HU to have it's high pass for the high channel lower than 1.25khz? Say to 200hz?


Nope and that's my main gripe about this unit. Almost makes me want to grab a 9886M while I still can and add the Imprint processor to it.


----------



## darrenforeal

ChrisB said:


> Nope and that's my main gripe about this unit. Almost makes me want to grab a 9886M while I still can and add the Imprint processor to it.


yeah, my main gripe too. If people can mod bit ones, bit tens, mosconi, etc. I would have thought it may be possible to mod the 80prs.


----------



## subwoofery

darrenforeal said:


> yeah, my main gripe too. If people can mod bit ones, bit tens, mosconi, etc. I would have thought it may be possible to mod the 80prs.


Those that mod processor are only changing parts... they don't rewrite the whole software. Also need to know if the firmware can lend itself to mods... 

Kelvin


----------



## t3sn4f2

darrenforeal said:


> yeah, my main gripe too. If people can mod bit ones, bit tens, mosconi, etc. I would have thought it may be possible to mod the 80prs.


Anyone can change out a capacitor of a certain value for another of the same value but with a higher price tag or prettier wrapping, but recoding a DSP is something totally different and more than likely impossible.


----------



## darrenforeal

^ gotcha. thanks guys


----------



## ScottyGreen

@darrenforeal

I'm going to have to run it in Standard mode to accomplish the tweeterless setup  bc of the highpass not going low enough...

Although the only thing I think I'll lose is phase adjustment (can be done at amps) Slopes (can be done at amps 12 and 24db anyway)

T/a will treat it as Front and Rears even though my Rears will be the midwoofers in front.

I'm thinking I may go ahead with the tweeterless project using the L3se
and a pro-audio midwoofer with this HU


----------



## darrenforeal

ScottyGreen said:


> @darrenforeal
> 
> I'm going to have to run it in Standard mode to accomplish the tweeterless setup  bc of the highpass not going low enough...
> 
> Although the only thing I think I'll lose is phase adjustment (can be done at amps) Slopes (can be done at amps 12 and 24db anyway)
> 
> T/a will treat it as Front and Rears even though my Rears will be the midwoofers in front.
> 
> I'm thinking I may go ahead with the tweeterless project using the L3se
> and a pro-audio midwoofer with this HU


yeah let me know how that goes. Nice if all you lose is the phase adjustment.


----------



## cel4145

Would the DEH-80PRS be a significant upgrade over the Pioneer DEH-P7400HD?

I just started putting together a budget system in my car a little over a month ago with the DEH-P7400HD, Diamond Audio 663S components in the front running off a BA GT-275 amp, and some JL Audio C2-600x in the rear running of the head unit for a little fill and for when there are passengers. Did the door deadening thing. Got an IDQ10 D4 sub and Crossfire BMF250M amp coming in tomorrow. 

Have no complaints about the DEH-P7400HD for what I paid for it, but I feel like I can get more out of these speakers. The DA tweeters are overly bright where they are installed behind the factory tweeter location. While I can tame them some with the 5 band EQ on the DEH-P7400HD, I'm guessing the DEH-80PRS AutoEQ and tuning features will do much, much better, while also allowing for a more balanced response curve overall. Plus, I feel like the DEH-P7400HD preamp/DAC is not getting me that close to the SQ I'm getting from my desktop PC setup (Energy RC-10s, HK 3290, Asus Xonar Essence STX, and Mirage Prestige S10 sub). 

Should I take the plunge? Everything I'm reading says yes, but I'd rather hear from you guys that own one and can guess better about the improvement in SQ I should get.


----------



## bamelanc

I've had this unit for a month now and coming from the 800PRS, I'm satisfied, but I have a few gripes. First, compared to the 800, the 80 feels cheap. Faceplate, knobs, buttoms, etc... The 800 feels worlds more solid...plus motorized face and copper chassis. I'm thinking Pioneer wanted a certain price point while having the tuning features of the 800...so that's fine I suppose. Second, is the menus. The 800 took you directly to the sub menu you wanted. The 80 adds a menu (i.e. sub 1, sub 2, sub 3) in between "audio" and the actual sub adjustments for phase, slope, crossover, etc. Third, the remote will not allow you to select the audio menu. You have to use the faceplate to adjust audio or any menu for that matter...800 remote allowed this. Was it worth the money I paid to get it vs. the extra features, I suppose so. The BTB200 module for the 800 sucked, would never auto connect and was spotty at best. So much more pleased with the bluetooth functionality of the 80.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

I noticed in some pics there is a blue background with what looks like white lettering.. I did not see this on mine.. is it just hte photo making it look like that or is it an option?


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

LOWFLYER777 said:


> TY! Finally a response...I was beginning to think I was the only one...So I guess it is a tooling defect....


FYI.. mine has the tooling defect also and for what its worth my girls 9400bt has it as well!


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

IBcivic said:


> After giving it some thought, I'll be doing the same (deh-p9400bh), since having a processing capable h-u , inline with another processor, is illogical.


Wouldn't the 80PRS with burrbrown DACS give a better source to feed into your DSP? I have seen tons of guys using DSP's after decks that have good DSP's like the DRZ9255..... and no im not defending my sig..  I get my info from winning SQ guys who know thier chit.


----------



## CrossFired

But what SQ difference have you noticed? i know the digital processing is more advance in the 80, as it's six years newer. I sort of miss the BBE processing from my 800/880. It sort of added some life to crappy recordings . I find the 80 is a step up in SQ, as it has a great stage and better controlled bass, but i miss the 880/800 just the same. If I could find a NIB 800, I'd trade the 80.



bamelanc said:


> I've had this unit for a month now and coming from the 800PRS, I'm satisfied, but I have a few gripes. First, compared to the 800, the 80 feels cheap. Faceplate, knobs, buttoms, etc... The 800 feels worlds more solid...plus motorized face and copper chassis. I'm thinking Pioneer wanted a certain price point while having the tuning features of the 800...so that's fine I suppose. Second, is the menus. The 800 took you directly to the sub menu you wanted. The 80 adds a menu (i.e. sub 1, sub 2, sub 3) in between "audio" and the actual sub adjustments for phase, slope, crossover, etc. Third, the remote will not allow you to select the audio menu. You have to use the faceplate to adjust audio or any menu for that matter...800 remote allowed this. Was it worth the money I paid to get it vs. the extra features, I suppose so. The BTB200 module for the 800 sucked, would never auto connect and was spotty at best. So much more pleased with the bluetooth functionality of the 80.


----------



## ScottyGreen

Didn't want to start a new thread so hopefully someone will read this and comment.

I just installed my 80prs and also have an audiocontrol dqs eq.

_Question:_
I'm running active in network mode too btw... 
The hu has left and right sub outputs, my audiocontrol has L and R sub inputs and outputs, and my sub amp has L and R inputs (even though it's a mono sub amp)

I have these all connected to all inputs/outputs ALL left and rights being used all through the signal chain.

Should I simply use an RCA Y splitter/summing cable to sum the L and R sub outputs out of the HU?

The reason I ask is because when I set my listening "position" control on the HU to "Left Seat" it changes the sub output level by a difference of 3db on the left or right sub (can't remember which, but it's 3db difference) Since I have a MONO sub amp running 2 subs, what it is doing is _decreasing_ the level to _both_ of my subs by 3db. If I set the position back to "off" or just "Front" (for both seats) it keeps the left and right sub outputs matched. I get good imaging with the seating position on Left, but it decreases my overall sub output because it decreases one of the sub channels 3db. It does this automatically, and if I raise or lower the sub level, it always stays 3db difference, never both at the same db.

Should I just sum the L and R signals and input just ONE rca into and out of my eq and from there just ONE into my sub amp?

I hope that makes sense, if someone could chime in on that please...
Thanks!


----------



## beef316

[/QUOTE]
Should I just sum the L and R signals and input just ONE rca into and out of my eq and from there just ONE into my sub amp?

I hope that makes sense, if someone could chime in on that please...
Thanks![/QUOTE]
Just change the sub output to mono on the hu and be done with it. No need to use a y connector.


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ScottyGreen

^ Unfortunately it's not as simple as that.

Even when selected to MONO on the HU it still drops down the L or R suboutput by 3db depending upon whether you select Front Left or Front Right on your seating Position. So even if it IS a mono signal, it is then dropped by 3db less than if you just had it set to both front seats or off.

I found the solution though. I set POSI to Front Left, and then went in and HELD down MC while on the subwoofer level and it let me adjust the R suboutput to be the same as the Left suboutput and now when I change up or down with the sub level it does maintain both at the same level and not with the 3db difference anymore.

I had to do this for both the front left POSI and front right POSI, the setting did not hold over between the two, however it looks as though it "stuck" when I power off the unit and back on again so that is good news.


----------



## jmontoya21

spent the afternoon installing and trying the deh-80prs with manual in hand, awesome by the way...

How does one adjust the subwoofer output say like at a red light? can"t find it for some reason.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

jmontoya21 said:


> spent the afternoon installing and trying the deh-80prs with manual in hand, awesome by the way...
> 
> How does one adjust the subwoofer output say like at a red light? can"t find it for some reason.


I was curious about that also as I could only find it in the network settings to adjust. Talk about a pain just to adjust your subwoofer level.. my girls 9400bt is a pain to..


----------



## beef316

jmontoya21 said:


> How does one adjust the subwoofer output say like at a red light? can"t find it for some reason.


knuckle dragging boomers.... If you leave your network 1 setting om low and the scroll to network 3 then hit the dsp< button all the way out.from there it should just be a double tap of the volume knob to get back to the low adjustment.not that hard. :beer:

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nervewrecker

chad said:


> you need a small SPST switch tucked away and TWO DIODES. The diodes prevent the feed from the switch from energizing the ACC circuit and vice versa.


thanks, started doing this today but ended up removing my passives and going active. :laugh:
I soldered up the wires already and gonna put the switch in the cig lighter (disconnecting the connections to the lighter and passing the wires inside it).

edit:

a few quick pics


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

beef316 said:


> knuckle dragging boomers.... If you leave your network 1 setting om low and the scroll to network 3 then hit the dsp< button all the way out.from there it should just be a double tap of the volume knob to get back to the low adjustment.not that hard. :beer:
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


That is still annoying... im always messing with my stuff at the moment so I don't remember to set it to low all the time.


----------



## jmontoya21

beef316 said:


> If you leave your network 1 setting om low and the scroll to network 3 then hit the dsp< button all the way out.from there it should just be a double tap of the volume knob to get back to the low adjustment.not that hard. :beer:


Thanks beef316, you see I haven't used a Pionner about 15 yrs lol, actually, for clarification sake: back out in Network 2 and the level for the low channel will be there.


----------



## ou812

This is the most annoying thing I have found with this hu.


----------



## captainobvious

sotelomichael said:


> I was in the same boat as you a few hours ago. Its actually inside the manual you have to dig through it.
> 
> 
> To save you some time, simply turn off the unit by pressing and holding SRC down, when it shuts off, press and hold EQ until the unit powers up again, it will go into the auto t/a and eq menu, just click the rotary button in after you've setup your mic, then the count down starts. Takes about 4-5 minutes.
> 
> Also, while you're at it, you can also shut off the internal amp if you are using external amps. Just turn the unit off with SRC again, and this time turn it on by pressing the rotary button in until the unit powers on. Use the levers and move about 7-10 times (I forget) to one side until your reach the option that displays internal amp, just click the rotary button in to disable it and you're good to go. (click back and it should turn off, turn back on as usual)


I saw your earlier posts with the select button just flashing up the menu and not displaying it unless you held in the button. This happened with mine when I first put it in and powered it on. This is due to a short. Once I taped up all of the wires behind the unit with electrical tape, they couldnt contact anything metal and it worked perfectly. Im guessing you had a short somewhere as well.
Thanks for the heads up on turning off the internal amp.


----------



## Big Ry

I ordered mine like 10 days ago on their memorial day sale. Now they say its on backorder and they have no date from the manufacturer 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Shadowmarx

Just got mine .... And installed ...
One of the better head units I have heard....


----------



## TwoDrink

Received mine from Amazon for $299 last week. Installing this week!


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Im getting turn on pops and pops sometimes when change tracks on CD's.. I started getting these as soon as I swapped out my DRZ to the 80PRS.. anyone else getting this? I am wondering if the unit is defective. The pops aren't loud and you have to listen for them.


----------



## rton20s

I've got no pop, but I'm not using any external amp yet either. I'll update as soon as my KS900.6 is hooked up.


----------



## jmontoya21

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Im getting turn on pops and pops sometimes when change tracks on CD's.. I started getting these as soon as I swapped out my DRZ to the 80PRS.. anyone else getting this? I am wondering if the unit is defective. The pops aren't loud and you have to listen for them.


if it helps, i went from an alpina cda-9887 and had a bit if whine. haven't heard it since swapped to the deh-80prs. maybe moving grounds around may do it, or grounding the rca's may fix it also.


----------



## spl152db

anyone know where to get one of these right now?


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

spl152db said:


> anyone know where to get one of these right now?


Edit: Scratch that, he doesn't have it no more.


----------



## bigjae1976

Just got this installed last week. The controls have been somewhat difficult to master so far...especially the crossover points and levels. But this is an amazing and powerful unit.


----------



## tnbubba

Not worth it. As long as the mp3 encoder is a good quality like LAME, you won't be able to tell the mp3 from the original uncompressed version. Especially in a car.

For those that disagree and can easily tell, please save your responses until you can provide proof that you accomplished this using a proper double blind ABX comparison session.

Now let me have it! 

Ok real simple rip ac/dc hells bells or anythig with flutes on it those gong hits. even win aac(.m4a) sounds like **** and u dont need abx to hear it.. even with best lame compressor.. if you can hear that ur deeffff
heck i run 2 way with no tweeter and you can hear the whoosing the aac/mp3 makes..
runing ipod with both files thru a IDAx305s,


----------



## spl152db

adrenalinejunkie said:


> Edit: Scratch that, he doesn't have it no more.


I found one sorta local. Drove up to charlotte to get it. Met two installefs who are cool as hell. Saw an awesome fully glassed show car. Got a sweet discount on the head unit too. Turns out the guy who sold it to me used to live up in Kansas where I'm from. 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk


----------



## nervewrecker

anyone else notice the faceplate cant fit in the provided case?


----------



## JAX

Surely not?!


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Hey guys, read back about 8 pages looking for tips... 

What abouts are people getting for max volume (number) roughly? 

And do any of you get dull pops when adjusting volume? I hear every detent in the knob...


----------



## rton20s

I haven't noticed any pops, but I am currently running the head unit on an otherwise stock system. Can't say for sure, but I thought I recalled someone testing the DEH-80PRS at full volume with no clipping. Not sure if that was with pink noise or test tones at a specific frequency.


----------



## thomasluke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Hey guys, read back about 8 pages looking for tips...
> 
> What abouts are people getting for max volume (number) roughly?
> 
> And do any of you get dull pops when adjusting volume? I hear every detent in the knob...


Mine is dead silent. No pops or anything. You sure you havent been cursed?
For the volume it depends on which source is being used with the usb being the loudest.


----------



## ErinH

I have two of them and neither have any problems that I've noticed yet. I'm only using the mid channels out of them but will be using all the RCA outputs on my wife's once I install the new amp. If I notice something odd I'll let you know. 

Have you been able to narrow it down to a particular source (iPod, cd, aux, etc) or output channels?


----------



## D-Bass

spl152db said:


> anyone know where to get one of these right now?


Contact your all of your local authorized pioneer dealers.


----------



## thomasluke

So, for those of you that are using the auto eq Does it seem to boost rather than cut?
I ask because for me it seems that with eq in use it's somewhat louder.
And a peaky as hell.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

rton20s said:


> I haven't noticed any pops, but I am currently running the head unit on an otherwise stock system. Can't say for sure, but I thought I recalled someone testing the DEH-80PRS at full volume with no clipping. Not sure if that was with pink noise or test tones at a specific frequency.


I'm running full active network mode.... Just getting started with it though, but thusfar i'm not impressed... It could be my amp though it IS 15+yrs old.. (although I just got it back from "refreshing")



thomasluke said:


> Mine is dead silent. No pops or anything. You sure you havent been cursed?
> For the volume it depends on which source is being used with the usb being the loudest.


Hmm..Cursed how..??? 

I'll have a video of various things shortly... 

I'm using the Autosound 2000 reference disc (copy) 



bikinpunk said:


> I have two of them and neither have any problems that I've noticed yet. I'm only using the mid channels out of them but will be using all the RCA outputs on my wife's once I install the new amp. If I notice something odd I'll let you know.
> 
> Have you been able to narrow it down to a particular source (iPod, cd, aux, etc) or output channels?


Again, I'm just getting started, not even through level setting or anything, just getting to know it, but so far, I'm not very happy... 

It doesn't seem to drive my SS Continuum very well, I'm getting way less than I should, espically out of the subs and when I bring up the gain I start getting odd noises out of my widebanders and subs.. 

I've got some testing I need to do, but right now I'm somewhat disapointed..


----------



## thomasluke

[QUOTEIt could be my amp though it IS 15+yrs old.. (although I just got it back from "refreshing")
Could be.


Hmm..Cursed how..??? 

By Noise, Ever find out where the static was coming when nothing was connected?

It doesn't seem to drive my SS Continuum very well, I'm getting way less than I should, espically out of the subs and when I bring up the gain I start getting odd noises out of my widebanders and subs.. 


([/QUOTE]

You could turn up the LSA with no ill effects that i have gathered.


----------



## ErinH

thomasluke said:


> You could turn up the LSA with no ill effects that i have gathered.


Yup.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

LSA?? 

I've got things sounding better now... My subs where out of polarity, possibly a midbass... still testing, but reveling in the wonderful sound I've workd sooo long to finally achieve and I'm just getting started, none of my drivers are even broken in.. 

So far so good... I'm still hearing the volume knob detents, but only on lower levels of quiet pasages.. I get a bit of turn off thump, but it's also a 15yr old amp... 

Dynamics in the midbass are lacking I think, but again, not broken in at all (Pio 720PRS) I expected a bit more impact.. (still level setting and whatnot)


No EQ, no TA, all filters @24db for extra protection... once things get broken in I'll open her up a bit... 

So at this point I'm happier..


----------



## thomasluke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> LSA??
> 
> I've got things sounding better now... My subs where out of polarity, possibly a midbass... still testing, but reveling in the wonderful sound I've workd sooo long to finally achieve and I'm just getting started, none of my drivers are even broken in..
> 
> So far so good... I'm still hearing the volume knob detents, but only on lower levels of quiet pasages.. I get a bit of turn off thump, but it's also a 15yr old amp...
> 
> Dynamics in the midbass are lacking I think, but again, not broken in at all (Pio 720PRS) I expected a bit more impact.. (still level setting and whatnot)
> 
> 
> No EQ, no TA, all filters @24db for extra protection... once things get broken in I'll open her up a bit...
> 
> So at this point I'm happier..


Thats good to hear man. LSA might be SLA. **** i'll just go look.


----------



## thomasluke

It's the SOURCE LEVEL ADJUSTER. It's + or - four. 
It has helped me get some volume back after some cuts with the eq.
Have you run the auto eq/ta yet? If so how well did it work for you?


----------



## RByers

Ive had the head unit for about a month now. Ill go over some of the quetions I see.
The auto eq boosts and cuts. Boosts too much for me. Drives midbass into clipping with it. So I use a rta instead.
The auto TA works pretty good. Not 100% perfect but it's really close.
The rcas are a clean signal 62 out of 62 but I set my gains at volume 60. Puts out some voltage for sure. Running active on a audison 5.1k and hertz setup and sounds great with the headunit. Don't notice any weird clicks, Subs pop sometimes when I turn it on but the 5.1k makes a pop anyways feom the relay itself so not that bad. Could probably be fixed if I threw a relay in the Remote line. 

Can probably answer some other questions but I only looked at the last page.


----------



## ou812

RByers said:


> Ive had the head unit for about a month now. Ill go over some of the quetions I see.
> The auto eq boosts and cuts. Boosts too much for me. Drives midbass into clipping with it. So I use a rta instead.
> The auto TA works pretty good. Not 100% perfect but it's really close.
> The rcas are a clean signal 62 out of 62 but I set my gains at volume 60. Puts out some voltage for sure. Running active on a audison 5.1k and hertz setup and sounds great with the headunit. Don't notice any weird clicks, Subs pop sometimes when I turn it on but the 5.1k makes a pop anyways feom the relay itself so not that bad. Could probably be fixed if I threw a relay in the Remote line.
> 
> Can probably answer some other questions but I only looked at the last page.


I am spot on with what you just posted. I ditched the auto eq after several attempts in several different mic locations with rather unpleasurable results in each. I can do much better on my own.The auto ta was pretty damm close although I have tweaked.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

thomasluke said:


> It's the SOURCE LEVEL ADJUSTER. It's + or - four.
> It has helped me get some volume back after some cuts with the eq.
> Have you run the auto eq/ta yet? If so how well did it work for you?


 
Gotcha, thanks.. 

I haven't run any auto anything yet, I'm still in break-in mode for a few.. 




> Ive had the head unit for about a month now. Ill go over some of the quetions I see.
> The auto eq boosts and cuts. Boosts too much for me. Drives midbass into clipping with it. So I use a rta instead.
> The auto TA works pretty good. Not 100% perfect but it's really close.
> *The rcas are a clean signal 62 out of 62 but I set my gains at volume 60*. Puts out some voltage for sure. Running active on a audison 5.1k and hertz setup and sounds great with the headunit. Don't notice any weird clicks, Subs pop sometimes when I turn it on but the 5.1k makes a pop anyways feom the relay itself so not that bad. Could probably be fixed if I threw a relay in the Remote line.
> 
> Can probably answer some other questions but I only looked at the last page.


Thank you, that's what I've gathered as well... clean...


----------



## Mic10is

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Gotcha, thanks..
> 
> I haven't run any auto anything yet, I'm still in break-in mode for a few..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, that's what I've gathered as well... clean...



um except this is what Erin tested and found out

"It doesn't clip until about 5v BUT getting 5v out is hard. 
With 0dB tracks I can only max it at 1.15v rms. if I bump the source level adjust up to +4 (max) I can get a out 2.3 v or so. If I bump ALL EQ bands up +2dB I get about 4.5v out. 
The problem is the frequency response is **** because it's 1octave bands. So you get a jigsaw. 
IOW, the max headunit voltage with a 0db test tone is about 1.2v. It won't clip until around 5 v rms but you have to doing something serious to be able to get the signal level that hot."

so realistically under "normal" use you're getting about 2v out.


----------



## CrossFired

What HU are you coming from?




RByers said:


> Ive had the head unit for about a month now. Ill go over some of the quetions I see.
> The auto eq boosts and cuts. Boosts too much for me. Drives midbass into clipping with it. So I use a rta instead.
> The auto TA works pretty good. Not 100% perfect but it's really close.
> The rcas are a clean signal 62 out of 62 but I set my gains at volume 60. Puts out some voltage for sure. Running active on a audison 5.1k and hertz setup and sounds great with the headunit. Don't notice any weird clicks, Subs pop sometimes when I turn it on but the 5.1k makes a pop anyways feom the relay itself so not that bad. Could probably be fixed if I threw a relay in the Remote line.
> 
> Can probably answer some other questions but I only looked at the last page.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

thomasluke said:


> It's the SOURCE LEVEL ADJUSTER. It's + or - four.
> It has helped me get some volume back after some cuts with the eq.
> Have you run the auto eq/ta yet? If so how well did it work for you?


Anyone know how much of the source level adjuster i can use before clipping at say 55 

I just put 14.9g of music on a SD card, and was messing with things.. i added some SLA and it bumped things up quite a bit... Still no EQ..

Im also finding a lot more output with Posi off.. i know it cuts something when its set to front, but cant figure out what...

Sent from the other side using mind bullets...(YapaTalk)


----------



## Big Ry

JR FINALLY sent mine out! Only took a month! Should be here Tuesday 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Big Ry

Well I finally got my 80prs and got it installed last week! I'm running in network mode. I tried the auto-EQ/TA and was pretty let down. It set the TA pretty good, but the EQ was all whacked...all highs, barely any mids, lows were under the radar as expected but I prefer them more pronounced. The crossover points and slopes were kinda strange too. Ah well, got my hopes up on easy processing for nothing lol. It definitely sounds better than my 9800BT and i stick need to mess with the EQ some more. I'm loving the rotating dial (coming from 9800BT with stupid joystick thing). And I also love how the iPod navigation remembers where u were when u press back!!!! It doesnt really feel much cheaper than my 9800BT, but i find it strange how thick the faceplate is. The network settings are a bit cumbersome, I think pioneer could have designed them much better. I haven't tried the phone via BT yet...hope that annoying echo is gone. All in all its a great unit and I'm glad I bought it.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spl152db

Big Ry said:


> Well I finally got my 80prs and got it installed last week! I'm running in network mode. I tried the auto-EQ/TA and was pretty let down. It set the TA pretty good, but the EQ was all whacked...all highs, barely any mids, lows were under the radar as expected but I prefer them more pronounced. The crossover points and slopes were kinda strange too. Ah well, got my hopes up on easy processing for nothing lol. It definitely sounds better than my 9800BT and i stick need to mess with the EQ some more. I'm loving the rotating dial (coming from 9800BT with stupid joystick thing). And I also love how the iPod navigation remembers where u were when u press back!!!! It doesnt really feel much cheaper than my 9800BT, but i find it strange how thick the faceplate is. The network settings are a bit cumbersome, I think pioneer could have designed them much better. I haven't tried the phone via BT yet...hope that annoying echo is gone. All in all its a great unit and I'm glad I bought it.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


since you're from "da hood" i'll just assume you didn't really read the manual especially since you said the crossovers were weird. You have to set those manually before you run t/a and eq. you can boost the subs back up in the network settings if you feel that it turned them down too much. I feel the auto eq was actually pretty good. the time alignment was terrible though.


----------



## Big Ry

spl152db said:


> since you're from "da hood" i'll just assume you didn't really read the manual especially since you said the crossovers were weird. You have to set those manually before you run t/a and eq. you can boost the subs back up in the network settings if you feel that it turned them down too much. I feel the auto eq was actually pretty good. the time alignment was terrible though.


Lol those is jokes! I read the manual. And yes, I did set the crossover points and slopes prior to running auto EQ and TA. It still changes them. I initially set them as close to the stock xover specs as possible. Personally, I liked where the stock xovers crossed, I just hated how damn loud the tweeters were (diamond audio hex s600s non-eton).

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jcollin76

Big Ry said:


> Lol those is jokes! I read the manual. And yes, I did set the crossover points and slopes prior to running auto EQ and TA. It still changes them. I initially set them as close to the stock xover specs as possible. Personally, I liked where the stock xovers crossed, I just hated how damn loud the tweeters were (diamond audio hex s600s non-eton).
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


What did you set your x-overs to before the auto eq/ta, and what did the unit change after the auto?

I haven't used this unit, but I'm assuming the auto eq/ta setup would be similar to the p99's. If you let the deck do auto network, you'll get the default x-overs. For some this works well... for others not so much.
Any time I set custom network (after I set the x-overs) it didn't change them. It only adjusted levels and eq. I could then go back in and adjust whatever I wanted. Mainly using the auto function as a baseline for eq/ta.

And I agree, I liked more sub volume than the deck set. Lol


----------



## thomasluke

jcollin76 said:


> What did you set your x-overs to before the auto eq/ta, and what did the unit change after the auto?
> 
> I haven't used this unit, but I'm assuming the auto eq/ta setup would be similar to the p99's. If you let the deck do auto network, you'll get the default x-overs. For some this works well... for others not so much.
> Any time I set custom network (after I set the x-overs) it didn't change them. It only adjusted levels and eq. I could then go back in and adjust whatever I wanted. Mainly using the auto function as a baseline for eq/ta.
> 
> And I agree, I liked more sub volume than the deck set. Lol


Thats been my experience with the p80 as well. But no matter what i do it always changes my sub to mid xover. Sets my mids at 100 with a 12 db slope and my sub to 63 with a 12 db slope. reverses the phase on my sub as well.
The default settings seem to be the same as too. tweets/mids at 8 and the mid/sub as i said above.


----------



## jcollin76

thomasluke said:


> Thats been my experience with the p80 as well. But no matter what i do it always changes my sub to mid xover. Sets my mids at 100 with a 12 db slope and my sub to 63 with a 12 db slope. reverses the phase on my sub as well.
> The default settings seem to be the same as too. tweets/mids at 8 and the mid/sub as i said above.


Wow, so it doesn't let you keep your settings in custom network? Not very custom then.


----------



## beef316

I would assume that there will be a firmware update at some point to address issues.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spl152db

jcollin76 said:


> Wow, so it doesn't let you keep your settings in custom network? Not very custom then.


it didn't change mine. Did you reset your unit before using it? There is something else going on that you did. did you by chance hit reset after setting your crossovers and before doing the t/a? Of course its going to sound like crap if they're set wrong. and if the subs are reversed after it measures its because you've got something wrong either with the crossovers or your subs or your mids.


----------



## spl152db

beef316 said:


> I would assume that there will be a firmware update at some point to address issues.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


what issues? mine has no problems. Also how would you update firmware on this deck? Have they EVER released new "firmware" for any deck?


----------



## Big Ry

jcollin76 said:


> What did you set your x-overs to before the auto eq/ta, and what did the unit change after the auto?
> 
> I haven't used this unit, but I'm assuming the auto eq/ta setup would be similar to the p99's. If you let the deck do auto network, you'll get the default x-overs. For some this works well... for others not so much.
> Any time I set custom network (after I set the x-overs) it didn't change them. It only adjusted levels and eq. I could then go back in and adjust whatever I wanted. Mainly using the auto function as a baseline for eq/ta.
> 
> And I agree, I liked more sub volume than the deck set. Lol


I think I set them to 1.6 @ 12dB slope. I don't have my car now, I'm using my dads truck to move, so I can't check now. I don't remember what it changed them to, but it was odd. I think the sub was @63 and mid hpf at 100...don't remember slopes but they weren't the same for each driver. IIRC the mid lpf and tweets had kind of a large gap too with non-matching slopes. The phases were reversed for a few of them too.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spl152db

Big Ry said:


> I think I set them to 1.6 @ 12dB slope. I don't have my car now, I'm using my dads truck to move, so I can't check now. I don't remember what it changed them to, but it was odd. I think the sub was @63 and mid hpf at 100...don't remember slopes but they weren't the same for each driver. IIRC the mid lpf and tweets had kind of a large gap too with non-matching slopes. The phases were reversed for a few of them too.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


it will reverse them if it feels it needs to, but it cannot change the crossover points and slopes. You could really hit up pioneer for damaged drivers if your unit does that.


----------



## CrossFired

jcollin76 said:


> Wow, so it doesn't let you keep your settings in custom network? Not very custom then.


Thats how Auto EQ is working, as it shoots the car in to get a flat response.

Every car will be different, so the changes will be different. 

In the 4 80's that I've set up, the AEQ has only messed with the Cross from woofer to mid. On my ride it sets my lows @ 80 and my mids @125.
Of corse I cant have that sort of nonsense, so I put the mid @ 80/4th order and the lows @ 63/1st order for a nice bass heavy sound.


----------



## jcollin76

CrossFired said:


> Thats how Auto EQ is working, as it shoots the car in to get a flat response.
> 
> Every car will be different, so the changes will be different.
> 
> In the 4 80's that I've set up, the AEQ has only messed with the Cross from woofer to mid. On my ride it sets my lows @ 80 and my mids @125.
> Of corse I cant have that sort of nonsense, so I put the mid @ 80/4th order and the lows @ 63/1st order for a nice bass heavy sound.


Okay, I was stabbing in the dark with the auto network settings... haven't used the 80. 
I was under the assumption it would be comparable to the 99's auto, which has never changed custom on me.


----------



## spl152db

CrossFired said:


> Thats how Auto EQ is working, as it shoots the car in to get a flat response.
> 
> Every car will be different, so the changes will be different.
> 
> In the 4 80's that I've set up, the AEQ has only messed with the Cross from woofer to mid. On my ride it sets my lows @ 80 and my mids @125.
> Of corse I cant have that sort of nonsense, so I put the mid @ 80/4th order and the lows @ 63/1st order for a nice bass heavy sound.


your posts are not making any sense... 

I'm glad you put where you work in your info though. I will never recommend you. There would be no reason for Pioneer to tell you to set your crossovers first if they're going to change them. That makes no sense. They don't measure for crossover anything. I still maintain that you did something wrong not that the unit changed it for you. this is partly because you won't even respond to my posts. obviously you just want to talk crazy on this cd player.


----------



## thomasluke

jcollin76 said:


> Wow, so it doesn't let you keep your settings in custom network? Not very custom then.


Well, It doesnt change the mid/tweet xover it changes the sub/mid xover.
Everything else is the same though. Also it doesnt change them everytime.
I'll take a video of the cal some time tomorrow and post it up.


----------



## Big Ry

spl152db said:


> it will reverse them if it feels it needs to, but it cannot change the crossover points and slopes. You could really hit up pioneer for damaged drivers if your unit does that.


Are you sure about this? Cause it definitely changed mine and I definitely followed the manual closely. I sure as hell hope I don't have a defective unit...it took me a month to get the first one!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## _Rom_

I'm having some issues with track ordering.

I have music browse off.

Some albums, on a hdd, the unit refuses to play in the set order. It assigns what I assume is it's own track number. And plays them in that order.

I've deleted a folder from hdd, then in windows, checked tags have track numbers in, which they do. 
I've also made sure they are sorted in the order I want in the folder before I copied it back over. 
I've also even tried editing file name to include track numbers.

Yet still it plays them out of order. Does this for multiple folders. 
It's just an album folder, with tracks in, no fancy sub folders etc.

Help please....it's really annoying me.
You hear the next track getting mixed in on an album..only to then have the track end, and completely the wrong one played next! 


Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gargat

_Rom_ said:


> I'm having some issues with track ordering.
> 
> I have music browse off.
> 
> Some albums, on a hdd, the unit refuses to play in the set order. It assigns what I assume is it's own track number. And plays them in that order.
> 
> I've deleted a folder from hdd, then in windows, checked tags have track numbers in, which they do.
> I've also made sure they are sorted in the order I want in the folder before I copied it back over.
> I've also even tried editing file name to include track numbers.
> 
> Yet still it plays them out of order. Does this for multiple folders.
> It's just an album folder, with tracks in, no fancy sub folders etc.
> 
> Help please....it's really annoying me.
> You hear the next track getting mixed in on an album..only to then have the track end, and completely the wrong one played next!
> 
> 
> Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


The reason this is happening is because the DEH-80PRS (and most other head units, I believe) play the folders and files in the order in which they are listed in the FAT32 file system. The head unit pays no attention to the folder or file alphabetical order or the MP3 tag info of the files.

In order to work around this, I found the easiest was to name the files (within each folder) with a 2-digit numerical prefix (01_abc, 02_xyz, etc.) and then use a FAT32 file system sorting utility which will sort the file system alphabetically for you. 

This utility has worked well for me so far (sorted hundreds of folders and thousands of files at a time without any problem). Note that I only tried it on my USB flash drive. I assume it would work for a FAT32 formatted HDD as well, but have not tried it myself.

Das Fun Blog » mp3DirSorter

There are a few others I came across too, but I haven't tried them.

Sort MP3 files on MP3 Player

Hope this info helps. I was frustrated with the same problem when I first got my DEH-80PRS.


----------



## thomasluke

spl152db said:


> it will reverse them if it feels it needs to, but it cannot change the crossover points and slopes. You could really hit up pioneer for damaged drivers if your unit does that.


I'm uploading a vid of the auto eq/ta doing just that right now. says i got 120 mins to go. 
The vid is ten mins with no edit at all.


----------



## thomasluke

p80 002 - YouTube

Just a very basic video, After i start the auto eq/ta skip to 9:05 and the changes it made. Adusted xover slopes as well as points.
does it everytime almost.


----------



## itstrend

My phones ringtones still plays on the deck even when i have the function off. Is there a setting on the phone I also have to do? 

I don’t want my ringtone playing while theres an incoming call.

I have an iPhone 4s Sprint.


----------



## BuckiWRX

*2 way passive setup - utilizing network mode?*

Noob question - If I run the HU in network mode and set the mid LPF to 12.5kHz and slope to 'Pass', does that mean the highest frequency sent to the mid output is 12.5kHz? Or will it be the full frequency range from 20kHz down to the mid's HPF? Here is my setup, and I'm hoping to run network mode to utilize phase and 4th order slope settings with just the mid + low outputs: 

HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS
Front: Morel Hyb Ovation II 6" (MT22 Tweeter+Hybrid Ovation Woofer crossed @ 12db/oct slope)
Sub: Morel Ultimo SC 10"
Amp: Hertz HDP4 (Powering the fronts separately and sub in bridged mode)

Any advice is appreciated, I'm very new to this...thank you!


----------



## trojan fan

Have you tried reading the owners manual


----------



## nismos14

Pass means pass through, filter is not on at all.


----------



## BuckiWRX

trojan fan said:


> Have you tried reading the owners manual


Yes, but I was confused as to whether the 'Pass' setting meant no filter at all (full range), or no slope until the crossover point but still cut frequencies above/below sent to that speaker output (0db @ 12.5kHz but no frequencies above sent to the mids).

Sorry if I'm not making any sense, I've very recently picked up this (already) expensive hobby 



nismos14 said:


> Pass means pass through, filter is not on at all.


Thanks, that's what I was looking for! Just wanted to confirm before opening up the headunit and making changes only to realize that I've lost top end frequencies


----------



## lup31337

Question : Is this head unit compatible with steering wheel controls ?


----------



## jnads87

Any one else having this issue?
Sometimes when playing my ipod, my head unit freezes. The scroll time on the track just stops moving and even when it switches to the next song nothing happens, it still shows the previous song stuck on the time that it froze on. Im wondering if this is an ipod problem or head unit problem.


----------



## rton20s

Anyone else catch this “review” of the best single DIN headunits of 2012 by “CarStereoChick?”
Best Single Din Head Unit 2012 by Car Stereo Chick - YouTube

I’d have to say I completely disagree with her. And it seems like neither she, or the shops crew ever gave the Pioneer a real chance. And sadly, I think it is rooted in either a lack of understanding of the capabilities of these head units or just plain unwillingness to do a fair and proper evaluation. It also seems that a lot of the things she considered shortcomings on the Pioneer she gave a pass to on the Kenwood. 

It would be interesting to hear what the collective reactions of her shop would be with each of the head units properly installed in an automotive environment. Including proper tuning of course. I’d guess we’d see some slightly different opinions than having all three units tuned “flat” on a board in a showroom.


----------



## ErinH

yea... a sighted test... that's legit. 

none of those units really look appealing to me. the pioneer is indeed ugly as hell. but, bang for the buck... it wins. "hands down".


----------



## BuckiWRX

lup31337 said:


> Question : Is this head unit compatible with steering wheel controls ?


Yes. I was able to get all the buttons to work with a PAC SWC adapter in my subaru


----------



## SupraSkylineSTI

Does the built in amp shut down in 3-way network mode, or is it still usable?


----------



## beef316

SupraSkylineSTI said:


> Does the built in amp shut down in 3-way network mode, or is it still usable?


Still usable and xo setting apply.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## kiran1103

Guys,

Searched around this thread and the internet but could not find much info. What is your take on upgrade from Pioner P80RSII - US equivalent being 800PRS I guess. 

Although I like the features, what I am concerned is the SQ quality. Does this come with better SQ?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## subwoofery

kiran1103 said:


> Guys,
> 
> Searched around this thread and the internet but could not find much info. What is your take on upgrade from Pioner P80RSII - US equivalent being 800PRS I guess.
> 
> Although I like the features, what I am concerned is the SQ quality. Does this come with better SQ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Don't think so to be honest. Although, I've never used the 80PRS. 

Kelvin


----------



## captainobvious

SupraSkylineSTI said:


> Does the built in amp shut down in 3-way network mode, or is it still usable?


Its useable, yep!

Although if you decide you want to shut OFF the internal amp, heres what you do:

With the unit powered off, press in and hold the rotary volume knob. The unit will power up in "setup" mode. scroll through the options until you see "internal amp" and toggle it off.


----------



## captainobvious

kiran1103 said:


> Guys,
> 
> Searched around this thread and the internet but could not find much info. What is your take on upgrade from Pioner P80RSII - US equivalent being 800PRS I guess.
> 
> Although I like the features, what I am concerned is the SQ quality. Does this come with better SQ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


It comes with more features and excellent sound quality. Read Bikinpunk's review of the unit and how it measured. Im not sure I would upgrade though unless you really need the additional features.


----------



## TypeR

Holy crap I just installed my 80PRS and it's awesome! The auto EQ/timealignment worked wonders for my system. It seemed to dull down the harshness of my tweeters and made everything sound a lot more full. Somehow my sub sounds way louder with this deck compared to my old JVC.... LPF was set fairly similar.
Only complaints:
-can't turn off beep
-too much animation for my liking
-music "search" doesn't bring you back to the current song with SD cards. You have to go through the folders to find where you are currently playing from. My old JVC would remember the folder path/song using a USB key, which I liked. I've only used it for one day...maybe you can with the 80PRS.

But....the sound quality more than makes up for the little gripes I have.


----------



## beef316

TypeR said:


> Only complaints:
> -too much animation for my liking
> .


You can turn animation off in the entertainment menu by selecting the blank background.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rton20s

beef316 said:


> You can turn animation off in the entertainment menu by selecting the blank background.


That's what I do. No more "attention getter" animations.


----------



## Richv72

Funny I bought mine the first day it came out and still have it sitting in a box on the living room floor. I guess when i do get to the point in my build of installing it, I can read this thread and be like a seasoned pro when it comes to the deh-80prs. I cant wait.


----------



## TypeR

beef316 said:


> You can turn animation off in the entertainment menu by selecting the blank background.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


Yeah that was the first thing I did lol. I'm talking about the side scrolling text that does the fancy assembling. The main source menu also does it and I don't think there's a way to turn it off. I'm kind of getting used to it, but something that still bugs me is the music search not remembering the folder path.


----------



## ChrisB

Does this unit have a horrific menu structure like the other Pioneer HUs used to? I tend to remember the old 800 requiring a bunch of menus just to adjust the subwoofer level and that was a huge turnoff compared to the 9887 which was just one push of a button. Granted, I rarely adjusted it, but some old classic rock required more sub volume whereas most modern electronic stuff required less sub volume.

Regardless, it can't be as bad as the old eclipse units that required you to stand on one leg, tilt your head to the left, and spin around two times before reaching your desired function.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

It's an EXTREMELY convoluted menu structure, but once you get used to it and fumble around a little, you get used to it becomes more intuitive... like anything else... 

It could have been much more streamlined though, for sure... odd duck.. 

Learning a new phone is worse IMHO...


----------



## HomicidalTherms

I just replaced my ailing Kenwood X994 with this and it is far and away a better unit. Out of the box the sound was noticeably cleaner and with only a couple of tweaks to the EQ I'm already happier with it. The 994 was always a bit midrangey and I could never quite get it out. I haven't had a chance to really get it dialed in yet or mess with the auto TA/EQ but I'm hoping it works out well. It will be interesting to see how it deals with my widebander/midbass/sub combo. 

I won't be buying any more Kenwoods after the last two have a taken a dump on me with faceplate issues. The 994 was also really buggy and just generally flimsy and irritating.


----------



## HCWLSU101

Has anyone switched from an alpine headunit and h100 processor to this unit? Curious about he differences in sound


----------



## MasterMod

HCWLSU101 said:


> Has anyone switched from an alpine headunit and h100 processor to this unit? Curious about he differences in sound


Interested to hear an answer to this too...thinking about switching mine out.


Larry


----------



## dylan199

Ordered my 80PRS today. Can't wait to install it.


----------



## dylan199

A little help please!

In the manual it says the the top rca input is the for the rear speakers, the middle rca input is for the front speakers and the bottom rca input is for the sub. Is that correct or is the top for the front, middle for the rear and bottom for the sub?


----------



## TwoDrink

The way the manual states is correct.


----------



## mcqueena

TwoDrink said:


> The way the manual states is correct.





dylan199 said:


> A little help please!
> 
> In the manual it says the the top rca input is the for the rear speakers, the middle rca input is for the front speakers and the bottom rca input is for the sub. Is that correct or is the top for the front, middle for the rear and bottom for the sub?


Yup, I neglected to see this in the manual, hooked everything up, assuming it was hi, mid, low from top to bottom and something wasn't right. And in network mode (3-way) the rear rca's are used for the tweeters. I didn't damage anything. I made the swap at the amp. I have to pull the head unit to clean up some things and I'll switch it back then.


----------



## mcqueena

mcqueena said:


> Yup, I neglected to see this in the manual, hooked everything up, assuming it was hi, mid, low from top to bottom and something wasn't right. And in network mode (3-way) the rear rca's are used for the tweeters. I didn't damage anything. I made the swap at the amp. I have to pull the head unit to clean up some things and I'll switch it back then.


I took a look at the manual again and it shows that it is hi, mid, low from top to bottom. So disregard my previous post. I must have just wired or labeled it wrong.


----------



## TwoDrink

You probably did what I (and others) have done. Noticed (correctly) that it is "rear", "front", & "sub" from top to bottom and assumed that the rear= mids, & front= highs (incorrectly) in network mode.


----------



## beef316

TwoDrink said:


> You probably did what I (and others) have done. Noticed (correctly) that it is "rear", "front", & "sub" from top to bottom and assumed that the rear= mids, & front= highs (incorrectly) in network mode.


I did it too

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## tnbubba

ditched alpine and h100.... like this unit way better.. its not a p99 but for the $ it rocks.. menus suck.. the t/a seems to be hit or miss depending on vehicle. some love the eq some don;t I did my own and them compared it to the auto eq different sounds but it sounded acceptable. little more snappy than my earball tune I usually tune by ear,.. then fine tune with rta.. the EQ in pioneer is a developed software profile you might like it you may not..
the TA in my truck give some weird ass numbers,, subs 110 mids 85 high 58
I know thats not right the mids n tweets are only 9" apart.. I sent mine for front.. its a single cab truck... and put the mic in the center just to test it out then moved the mic 1' TO THE LEFT.. THE TA adjusted accordingly!!!! next test is to pull the rta sweep thru the aux in to see what the eq is doing..... 
also it adjusted the LR levels about 2 db unless the gains on my amps have drifted that is weird.. I know the were set with scope before and spot on... gonna listen n tweak for now.. gonna be a few weeks before I get a weekend to fully shake it down with scopes, calibrated mics n rta...
but I'm not looking back for now...


----------



## Gary Mac

Where is the cheapest place to get this these days? I'm thinking cruthfield only because I need a dash kit and harness too


----------



## tnbubba

i order one form cruthfie;d becasue J&R had me backordered for 3 weeks and i had to have one for a trip.. got crutchfileds in 2 daze.. called JR said cancel too late I had to have for trip and they didn't have units in yet.. got back from trip one form JR showed up that day.. opened it ups it was used unit.. no shrink wrap and box had greasy finger prints on it.. be wary!!


----------



## Thumper26

HCWLSU101 said:


> Has anyone switched from an alpine headunit and h100 processor to this unit? Curious about he differences in sound


 not exactly apples to apples, but I swapped an ida-x001/701 setup for a pioneer 800prs, and the deck out of the box sounded way better than CDs played on my 624 changer with optical to the 701. Everything was so much more open and detailed that I did a double take. I would never have believed there is that much difference in decks with 24 bit DACs


----------



## dylan199

I bought mine from Sonic Electronix for $324 shipped.


----------



## TAMUmpower

Got mine today...and I do have the scratch by the input on the front...Clearly a tooling programming error on the front plastic. After the bit drilled the hole the tool wasnt raised enough as it moved from the surface and drags a perfectly straight scratch for about a centimeter. Very hard to see off axis though.

Got it installed but havent listened to it yet since my DSP is still out of the car.

I agree with the overall feel being a little clickity clacky, especially the rocker arm. The illumination feel overall is pretty though. Looks good at night.


----------



## dyirendz

Am I the only one that did not like that head unit at all? I was very eager to have that unit after reading all kinds of superlatives about it and when I finaly got it (waited a month, only 6 units for the whole country in June) my jaw hit the floor. As my midbase amp was sent for repair and was using some Y-spliters and amp crossovers I decided to wait a bit till I have it properly wired. After that no change. I am by no means expert and don't even have the knowledge to express what I do not like soundwise but this unit left me with the worse feeling after having deh-4000ub, nakamichi cd300, alpine 9855, and sony c910 for a few weeks. 

With the current setup- dls ca41 for highs, groundzero 2225sq for mids and genesis profile sub runing seas prestige highs and mids and morel ultimo sc 12" I used the Alpine and the Sony. The nak and 4000ub I used without amp powering my Focal 165V1 which is not a good component set, very specific sounding.

Alpine was good HU but got stollen, I had some problems with the midrange but it has given me pleasure overall  . Sony c910 blew me away with only 1 adjustment of the DLS's crossover and gains and that was it. After the Sony I just put the 80prs and set it to flat eq and crossovers and it was so horrifiyng in some songs that I could not believe it. It was ok on demo discs and some more jazz songs but was total crap on most rock and pop songs. I waited to collect some opinions from experienced and non car audio ppl and there was no positive reaction. CD audio was compared to radio quality. Unlively...90s walkman... I start to think my unit is defective or something.

I know I do not look very credible but that's just my opinion. No trolling or something I can attach some pics and vids of my install. Just a guy that wants nice sounding new head unit, with extras if possible. For now I'm going to try Sony CDX-C90R and decide if I'm going to sell the Pio.


----------



## dietDrThunder

dyirendz said:


> Am I the only one that did not like that head unit at all? I was very eager to have that unit after reading all kinds of superlatives about it and when I finaly got it (waited a month, only 6 units for the whole country in June) my jaw hit the floor. As my midbase amp was sent for repair and was using some Y-spliters and amp crossovers I decided to wait a bit till I have it properly wired. After that no change. I am by no means expert and don't even have the knowledge to express what I do not like soundwise but this unit left me with the worse feeling after having deh-4000ub, nakamichi cd300, alpine 9855, and sony c910 for a few weeks.
> 
> With the current setup- dls ca41 for highs, groundzero 2225sq for mids and genesis profile sub runing seas prestige highs and mids and morel ultimo sc 12" I used the Alpine and the Sony. The nak and 4000ub I used without amp powering my Focal 165V1 which is not a good component set, very specific sounding.
> 
> Alpine was good HU but got stollen, I had some problems with the midrange but it has given me pleasure overall  . Sony c910 blew me away with only 1 adjustment of the DLS's crossover and gains and that was it. After the Sony I just put the 80prs and set it to flat eq and crossovers and it was so horrifiyng in some songs that I could not believe it. It was ok on demo discs and some more jazz songs but was total crap on most rock and pop songs. I waited to collect some opinions from experienced and non car audio ppl and there was no positive reaction. CD audio was compared to radio quality. Unlively...90s walkman... I start to think my unit is defective or something.
> 
> I know I do not look very credible but that's just my opinion. No trolling or something I can attach some pics and vids of my install. Just a guy that wants nice sounding new head unit, with extras if possible. For now I'm going to try Sony CDX-C90R and decide if I'm going to sell the Pio.


I think it's possible that you just need time and maybe some help in tuning it/setting it up. While there are some things about the unit that I would love to change, it sounds fantastic, and is head-and-shoulders better than anything else even close to its price point IMO.

If your unit really sounds like a radio is playing when you're listenning to CDs, it's not because that's how the hu sounds...you have issues somewhere; either setup or tune.


----------



## spl152db

dietDrThunder said:


> I think it's possible that you just need time and maybe some help in tuning it/setting it up. While there are some things about the unit that I would love to change, it sounds fantastic, and is head-and-shoulders better than anything else even close to its price point IMO.
> 
> If your unit really sounds like a radio is playing when you're listenning to CDs, it's not because that's how the hu sounds...you have issues somewhere; either setup or tune.


or the source material is crap. This unit really helps you pick out the flaws in recording (or compression when using mp3's). I love it.


----------



## dyirendz

I'll do a video tonight so I can show you my settings and install. Source is different mostly CD-R from flac rips. I remeber that I forgot to check the groundzero amp crossover settingsn after the repair... it has this plate with 8 hex screws that covers them...


----------



## TypeR

Anyone have any issues with the unit all of a sudden returning to default settings?
It's been working perfectly for over a month, and today I turned the car on and everything was back to defaults...no issues with the battery draining or anything like that.
The car sat in the sun all day and the interior was pretty hot, but I don't think that would have caused it....


----------



## dylan199

TypeR said:


> Anyone have any issues with the unit all of a sudden returning to default settings?
> It's been working perfectly for over a month, and today I turned the car on and everything was back to defaults...no issues with the battery draining or anything like that.
> The car sat in the sun all day and the interior was pretty hot, but I don't think that would have caused it....


I've have mine for about three weeks and for the past week it's been over 100 degrees in California, and I haven't had any problems at all.


----------



## thomasluke

TypeR said:


> Anyone have any issues with the unit all of a sudden returning to default settings?
> It's been working perfectly for over a month, and today I turned the car on and everything was back to defaults...no issues with the battery draining or anything like that.
> The car sat in the sun all day and the interior was pretty hot, but I don't think that would have caused it....


Nope, but if i do i'm going to blame you now.:laugh:


----------



## jriggs

No problems at all. Just got back from a 10 day 3,185 mile road trip and mine never failed me. That includes 3 days of 12-14 hour drives in the south west.


----------



## dyirendz

Ok, I guess I misjudged it... don't know about the other guys I talked to. I listened to some music yesterday and it sounded quite good. Later started auto eq in a quite underground parking lot and all sounds good to me. I have to turn down the gain of the midbass amp it's -9db now, I only had subsonic filter on, I turned that off.

Here is the video after Auto EQ


----------



## mcqueena

TypeR said:


> Anyone have any issues with the unit all of a sudden returning to default settings?
> It's been working perfectly for over a month, and today I turned the car on and everything was back to defaults...no issues with the battery draining or anything like that.
> The car sat in the sun all day and the interior was pretty hot, but I don't think that would have caused it....


The manual says if you start to get weird behavior to reset the unit. Have you tried doing a reset?


----------



## shado

Can anyone confirm if the CD-MC20 required for the Auto-EQ is included the purchase?


----------



## spl152db

shado said:


> Can anyone confirm if the CD-MC20 required for the Auto-EQ is included the purchase?


yea its there....


----------



## trojan fan

dyirendz said:


> Ok, I guess I misjudged it... don't know about the other guys I talked to. I listened to some music yesterday and it sounded quite good. Later started auto eq in a quite underground parking lot and all sounds good to me. I have to turn down the gain of the midbass amp it's -9db now, I only had subsonic filter on, I turned that off.
> 
> Here is the video after Auto EQ



I wish my computer speakers could reproduce what's coming out of your car speakers


----------



## kizz

Best Single Din Head Unit 2012 by Car Stereo Chick - YouTube

Funny how she never once mentioned the pioneers active capability. just quickly decided she didn't like how it sounded. um...what?


----------



## trumpet

kizz said:


> Best Single Din Head Unit 2012 by Car Stereo Chick - YouTube
> 
> Funny how she never once mentioned the pioneers active capability. just quickly decided she didn't like how it sounded. um...what?


I watched most of that video not long ago and I thought it was weird that the best head unit decision seemed to be glossed over so quickly. Maybe it goes to show how the mainstream car audio crowd looks at products compared to the hyper analysis performed by this community. Part of making videos as a shop owner/employee is to target the right viewers.


----------



## kizz

that and they didn't even show the pioneer hu. which means it's quite possible they don't sell it. I think their decision could have been a little biased which might be good for them but really isn't fair. If they don't have the hu they shouldn't review it.


----------



## rton20s

I brought that video up a while back. I think you're both on the right track. There could be a few things happening here. The "Car Stereo Chick" and her shop really aren't that knowledgeable, or just don't care to do a proper test. And/or they don't sell the Pioneer, or don't see them being able to sell to many of their target customers. 

Bottom line, she has been getting ripped in her comments section by a lot of people familiar with the Pioneer with little to no response. I doubt we'll see a follow up video on this one.


----------



## spl152db

The fact that the pioneer on flat sounded like crap only proves their wall setup speakers/amps/switches sound like crap not the deck. she eliminates it because it's "complicated" and not like an ipod.

and she also spouts off some sh*t about it being hard to see in the light. wtf?


----------



## beef316

spl152db said:


> ...
> and she also spouts off some sh*t about it being hard to see in the light. wtf?


This is true. The only color that is legible in direct sun is white.


Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spl152db

I never tried another color. I like white. I had red for a while but i just didn't like it. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

Same here... went through all of the colors a couple times and I always settle on white.


----------



## mcqueena

I do red buttons and white display.

I have a question, not related to the display. After you run the Auto EQ, is there a way to see those eq settings and then edit them. I only see how to turn the Auto EQ on and off.


----------



## spl152db

mcqueena said:


> I do red buttons and white display.
> 
> I have a question, not related to the display. After you run the Auto EQ, is there a way to see those eq settings and then edit them. I only see how to turn the Auto EQ on and off.


Nope. But you can adjust time alignment. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowmarx

mcqueena said:


> I do red buttons and white display.
> 
> I have a question, not related to the display. After you run the Auto EQ, is there a way to see those eq settings and then edit them. I only see how to turn the Auto EQ on and off.


All u have to do is go to EQ it will be under custom 1 or custom 2 depending 
on which one u chose......


----------



## Shadowmarx

I have a question about Auto EQ...
Mine seems to be not save'n the setings...
It goes through the process but doesn't save..
I doing sum'n wrong here???


----------



## spl152db

Then my car is perfect! Cause those are flat and not the auto eq. You can't adjust auto eq. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## spl152db

Shadowmarx said:


> I have a question about Auto EQ...
> Mine seems to be not save'n the setings...
> It goes through the process but doesn't save..
> I doing sum'n wrong here???


So you give advice that you don't know works since yours doesn't? Hmmmm

What isn't saving? It will say either auto eq on or off. You can change time alignment however. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadowmarx

What ever read the manual......


spl152db said:


> So you give advice that you don't know works since yours doesn't? Hmmmm
> 
> What isn't saving? It will say either auto eq on or off. You can change time alignment however.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## spl152db

you didn't....

I did. 

very specific instructions in there.... auto eq does it automatically. custom 1 and 2 are USER defined. You have to create and save them. 

page 27.


----------



## kizz

rton20s said:


> Bottom line, she has been getting ripped in her comments section by a lot of people familiar with the Pioneer with little to no response. I doubt we'll see a follow up video on this one.


agreed! i just think it's funny how...idk, naive some people are.


----------



## ZAKOH

How hard is it to get your settings back (time, radio stations, etc) once the car batter is reset? Are any Auto EQ or manual settings lost?


----------



## spl152db

ZAKOH said:


> How hard is it to get your settings back (time, radio stations, etc) once the car batter is reset? Are any Auto EQ or manual settings lost?


Don't know. Haven't tried and don't plan on it anytime soon. Just throw a 9v battery in the cigarette outlet while you change the battery and it will retain. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## shado

Just ordered today from Car Toys at Amazon for under $300.
Emailed them and replied if you wait after 6:15PST the price goes back under MSRP (at least for now... )
Hopefully it gets here by Friday so I can get it installed Sat.


----------



## Richv72

This is probably the most popular thread ever for a single piece of equipment.


----------



## subwoofery

Richv72 said:


> This is probably the most popular thread ever for a single piece of equipment.


Guess you haven't seen the JBL MS-8 thread then  

Kelvin


----------



## thomasluke

ZAKOH said:


> How hard is it to get your settings back (time, radio stations, etc) once the car batter is reset? Are any Auto EQ or manual settings lost?


When batt power is lost or disconnected all settings but the time and demo are are saved.
The audio stays the same. Everything stays the same it's really a big step up from the kenwood.


----------



## TAMUmpower

subwoofery said:


> Guess you haven't seen the JBL MS-8 thread then
> 
> Kelvin


Yea but this actually works as intended...


----------



## nismos14

I didn't test it on the 80prs, but on older pioneer active HU's you could see the auto eq settings and adjust them, but they wouldn't overwrite the user defined custom ones


----------



## bamelanc

I had been running passive in standard mode for a long time with the 800PRS and now the 80PRS. I recently went active and there is no comparison. I spent about 10 minutes setting up crossover points, slopes, levels and basic TA and it sounds worlds better. There is plenty of tweaking/fine tuning to do, but I can't believe I didn't do this sooner. 

Had people telling me that the 600/4 on the TN52 was too bright or harsh. No way, everything sounds better than going through the Focal passive crossover. 

Anyone else have a similiar set up? HD600/4 on Focal KR2 active?


----------



## ZAKOH

This might have been answered already..

Does the AutoEQ feature configure only equalization, or does it also adjust levels on the outputs?


----------



## kizz

i believe it does everything


----------



## ChrisB

I finally broke down and ordered a DEH-80PRS for myself. I would have purchased one locally, but my dealer didn't have one in stock and he wanted me to pay him full MRSP prior to "special ordering" one for me. Umm, no thanks, and to think, you complain that the internet is killing your business. I wonder why?


----------



## JAX

ChrisB said:


> I finally broke down and ordered a DEH-80PRS for myself. I would have purchased one locally, but my dealer didn't have one in stock and he wanted me to pay him full MRSP prior to "special ordering" one for me. Umm, no thanks, and to think, you complain that the internet is killing your business. I wonder why?



went ahead and made that choice eh? If I were looking I think it would be worth the extra $100 to get the Pioneer or at least I say that until I put eyes on this new 702 clarion which I dont think will happen here. we dont have a clarion dealer local anymore.


----------



## IDGAF

Holy long thread. I've been enjoying mine for a few months on "standard" mode using HU power for the fronts.

I went "network" mode and active a couple days ago and.... holy engine noise. Is this a common thing with these units?


----------



## nismos14

IDGAF said:


> Holy long thread. I've been enjoying mine for a few months on "standard" mode using HU power for the fronts.
> 
> I went "network" mode and active a couple days ago and.... holy engine noise. Is this a common thing with these units?


Switching from standard to network won't make engine noise appear. I would make sure your connections are still good and nothing is loose behind the HU.


----------



## IDGAF

nismos14 said:


> Switching from standard to network won't make engine noise appear. I would make sure your connections are still good and nothing is loose behind the HU.


Well... I wasn't using RCA's before hand. You reckon that matters? I went from HU power and sub out to 2 way active + sub.

I'm actually hoping the amp is bad since this is the first time I've used it. It's got me scratching my head. It's that bad.


----------



## spl152db

IDGAF said:


> Well... I wasn't using RCA's before hand. You reckon that matters? I went from HU power and sub out to 2 way active + sub.
> 
> I'm actually hoping the amp is bad since this is the first time I've used it. It's got me scratching my head. It's that bad.


As long as you didn't move the rcas around while the head unit was on. Simple fix though. Take some wire, strip it down and wrap around the outside of the RCA and connect to the radio. If it quiets down make it permanent. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## spl152db

Just search for Pico fuse. It could also be how your rcas are ran. Are they on the same side as your power wire? 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

IDGAF said:


> Well... I wasn't using RCA's before hand. You reckon that matters? I went from HU power and sub out to 2 way active + sub.
> 
> I'm actually hoping the amp is bad since this is the first time I've used it. It's got me scratching my head. It's that bad.



Did you have the head unit off when you connected the RCA's on the head unit/amplifier? It is possible that you have a bad ground, need to reroute your rca's, bad amplifier or you have blown the pico fuse on the head unit.


----------



## IDGAF

HU was powered down when the RCAs were plugged in. They are also routed down the center of the car and the power run down the driver's side. Amp ground "should" be solid, but I guess I'll double check it.

I tried grounding the RCA shield at the amp. Noise didn't even check up.


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

IDGAF said:


> HU was powered down when the RCAs were plugged in. They are also routed down the center of the car and the power run down the driver's side. Amp ground "should" be solid, but I guess I'll double check it.
> 
> I tried grounding the RCA shield at the amp. Noise didn't even check up.



You can remove the RCA's and toss them over the seats to test. It is possible that they were getting some sort of interfirience. You can also use another pair and test them over the seats aswell.


----------



## ChrisB

JAX said:


> went ahead and made that choice eh? If I were looking I think it would be worth the extra $100 to get the Pioneer or at least I say that until I put eyes on this new 702 clarion which I dont think will happen here. we dont have a clarion dealer local anymore.


Actually, I was looking at the NX702 double din, so this was $400 to $650 cheaper than what I was looking at.:laugh: While the crossover allows more points on the Clarion CZ702, the Pioneer has more tuning options with the EQ per channel, more crossover slopes, and phase control per driver.

In fact, I went with the DEH-80PRS because it plus the Alpine PDX V9 were cheaper than the Clarion NX702. I guess my inner accountant made it easier to justify function over bling.:laugh:


----------



## HCWLSU101

I did the same calculation and bought the 80prs and v9. Love the combo.


----------



## nismos14

I don't get it. The NX702 is ~$750, the Pioneer and PDX-V9 is ~$1000....


----------



## ChrisB

nismos14 said:


> I don't get it. The NX702 is ~$750, the Pioneer and PDX-V9 is ~$1000....


I only paid $770 for the two. The HU was authorized from Crutchfield whereas the amp was not.


----------



## Big Ry

How big have you guys gone on storage devices? I see Pio puts limits on SD card capacity and alike. From my experience in the mobile phone industry, those limits are mostly fluff...probably so you think you need to buy their next line of products. I'd like to get an SSD as opposed to a flash drive or SD card. I understand I need to reformat the drive. I'll have to dig up that post on which format they need to be in, because I cant remember off the top of my head. But have any of you run into issue running high capacity storage devices? What sizes do you all have? Brand recommendations would help to


----------



## mcqueena

I have a 32GB Amazon branded SD card. I didn't need to format it at all. I think it came as FAT and that seems to work fine. I haven't filled it up yet but so far no problems. What is the size limit pioneer recommends?


----------



## Thumper26

32 gb is a limit of the fat32 format, which is pro ably what the deck es configured to use. Windows 7 will let you format as FATex for bigger drives, and may work instead. Not sure if xp has that option, but you cm download free formatting programs to format your drive as FATex. If you read the pioneer manual, there is also a folder and subfolder limit too.


----------



## tnbubba

testing a 160 gb seagata sata drive with usb adaptor this week..if my new 500G get here soon enuff..


----------



## SQ_lover

I just changed my Alpine with this 80prs. I can't stand bad file management of the alps.
It takes forever for banking which I can only listen the last song played during the period.

Pioneer takes only several seconds to load and browse the file smoothly. 
I use 32GB flashdisk on the USB (MP3's) and 16GB on the SDHC (WAV). 
That would be more than enough for me.

BTW, The 32GB limitation is not by Pio but the SDHC standard itself.


----------



## bamelanc

Anyone have any issues with the flip down face hitting the dash kit with the big a$$ rotary dial the 80PRS has? I can't access the SD card slot because it won't flip all the way open. Thought about dremeling out a grove for the dial, but that would be tacky. '05 Tundra. Solutions?


----------



## SQ_lover

bamelanc said:


> Anyone have any issues with the flip down face hitting the dash kit with the big a$$ rotary dial the 80PRS has? I can't access the SD card slot because it won't flip all the way open. Thought about dremeling out a grove for the dial, but that would be tacky. '05 Tundra. Solutions?


I think you can remove the plate while half open or so.
The face plate must be removed not flipped all the way down to access the slot.


----------



## spl152db

I have the same issue. But as he said faceplate needs to be off. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


----------



## tnbubba

250 G seagate 3.5HDD formatted to fat 32..
set in vantech usb case...
120GB of wav files..about 4-6 subfolder deep
pioneer reads fines..
takes about 10-15 sec to read drive when unit is first powered on..
that's all i got for now..
zips thru folder structures to find and access files quick as you can get thru a cd..


----------



## FSUnoles

i have a ?

i have a brand new in the box eclipse cd7000 and im going to go single din

would it be worth it to upgrade to the 80prs instead of the eclipse? (sq wise) i know it have more features (especially bt)


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

FSUnoles said:


> i have a ?
> 
> i have a brand new in the box eclipse cd7000 and im going to go single din
> 
> would it be worth it to upgrade to the 80prs instead of the eclipse? (sq wise) i know it have more features (especially bt)


The Eclipse front (highs) pre-out allows you to cross as low as 200, 250, 315HPF , Etc which is good for a wide bander oppose to the 1,200 or 1,500hz mark on the 80PRS forget which one it is. You'll also need the IPC-106 ipod unit (which doesn't charge the IPhone 4S unsure which other models) for the Eclipse if you need that oppose to the 80PRS which is plug 'n play. A couple of guys talked about the Eclipse vs the 80PRS in the first pages, may want to read from the beginning.


----------



## TimmyG

Is this head unit the best for the price? ABT Elctronics currently has it on sale for $279.

I purchased it already, but for whatever reason I am having second thoughts.


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

TimmyG said:


> Is this head unit the best for the price? ABT Elctronics currently has it on sale for $279.
> 
> I purchased it already, but for whatever reason I am having second thoughts.



Pretty cheap for all the features it has. Pioneer stage 4 is $1200, but does let you do more with it.


----------



## KyleT

If using the 80PRS in network mode to run active with a 2 way front stage, can the level of the "low" output (in this case the sub) easily be adjusted independently? I'm used to the simple +/- Sub channel adjustment on my CD400.


----------



## spl152db

KyleT said:


> If using the 80PRS in network mode to run active with a 2 way front stage, can the level of the "low" output (in this case the sub) easily be adjusted independently? I'm used to the simple +/- Sub channel adjustment on my CD400.


if you have that as your last setting, its press knob in twice to select audio then network 2. press down or up on selector wings. pretty simple.


----------



## KyleT

spl152db said:


> if you have that as your last setting, its press knob in twice to select audio then network 2. press down or up on selector wings. pretty simple.


Great, thanks! That was my only reservation about moving to this HU.


----------



## slaming

Does the 80PRS enhance the quality of mp3s on USB and the iPod? I listen to alot of long techno sets that are encoded in 128-320 kbps and it would be great to boost their quality so that I don't have to download those tracks individually in wav..


----------



## spl152db

slaming said:


> Does the 80PRS enhance the quality of mp3s on USB and the iPod?


if by enhance you mean play back correctly? then yes. I think there is a restoration thing built in but honestly storage is so cheap now, just get a bigger flash drive and use higher quality files. No reason not to.


----------



## slaming

spl152db said:


> if by enhance you mean play back correctly? then yes. I think there is a restoration thing built in but honestly storage is so cheap now, just get a bigger flash drive and use higher quality files. No reason not to.


Storage isn't the issue. I listen to alot of electronic music and its much easier to download a 1 hour set than to look for the files individually on wav. Some of the songs are impossible to find.


----------



## spl152db

slaming said:


> Storage isn't the issue. I listen to alot of electronic music and its much easier to download a 1 hour set than to look for the files individually on wav. Some of the songs are impossible to find.


lets put it this way, you can't reproduce what isn't there. You can boost the crap out of the frequencies it cuts for compression but that isn't making it sound better exactly.


----------



## takeabao

I'm getting conflicting information.

- Somebody (in the 80PRS thread) said you can defeat the crossovers *in network mode* by setting slope to 0db. However, I looked at page 49 and it only has this feature listed for the "MID" output.

- If the "HIGH" output has a minimum HPF of 1.25 KHz then adding external X-over (active or passive) for mid/tweet to obtain a pseudo 4-way active setup via this channel isn't going to work (unless you want this as a starting point...)


Can somebody confirm the crossover IS or ISN'T defeatable on the "HIGH" output while using network mode?


----------



## beef316

All outputs can be set so t they play full range. You can do what ever you are asking.

Tapatalk owns my productivity.


----------



## ErinH

beef316 said:


> All outputs can be set so t they play full range. You can do what ever you are asking.
> 
> Tapatalk owns my productivity.


In network mode this is not true. Tweeter channel is limited by a 6dB/octave slope at 1.25khz. 



In other news, according to the service manual this deck has the pcm1793db DAC on each of its outputs. 
http://www.ti.com/product/pcm1793

Just for those who are curious.


----------



## captainobvious

takeabao said:


> I'm getting conflicting information.
> 
> - Somebody (in the 80PRS thread) said you can defeat the crossovers *in network mode* by setting slope to 0db. However, I looked at page 49 and it only has this feature listed for the "MID" output.
> 
> - If the "HIGH" output has a minimum HPF of 1.25 KHz then adding external X-over (active or passive) for mid/tweet to obtain a pseudo 4-way active setup via this channel isn't going to work (unless you want this as a starting point...)
> 
> 
> Can somebody confirm the crossover IS or ISN'T defeatable on the "HIGH" output while using network mode?


 
This and the paltry crossover frequency options are what forced me to look elsewhere for processing. It's just not robust enough for someone wanting flexibility for running something diferent than the industry standard 2-way with crossover points near 2K. If you have external DSP like MiniDSP units, then sure, you can set the outputs to full range, but not in the network mode, only standard. The fact that you ca't defeat all of the crossovers in network mode is very ghey.

Other than that though, it's an awesome deck. If I was doing a standard 2-way plus sub, it would be terrific. Problem is, I'm not.


----------



## takeabao

Pretty much how I feel about this unit right now after reading that......


----------



## beef316

bikinpunk said:


> In network mode this is not true. Tweeter channel is limited by a 6dB/octave slope at


you are correct sir.

Tapatalk owns my productivity.


----------



## zikzak

dietDrThunder said:


> TO be clear, I'm talking about the beep you get with every control input, not the warning beep that the faceplate is still on. I have yet to figure out how to turn that beep off. If there is no way to do it, I will probably find a local electronics place disable it however needed. It is that irritating.
> 
> Also, can't turn off the little scroll-y display every time you change songs. This is even more annoying. If neither of these things can be fixed, there is a real possibility that I will exchange this or sell it and find another unit that does the ta stuff...maybe wait for the Clarion models that are coming out.


Anyone found a way around these two things?


----------



## nervewrecker

Question: this head unit designed for left hand drive vehicles only? 

From the right hand side the display looks white but from the center (straight in front) and lefty hand side you see the nice warm color. 

Or is there another model for right hand drive vehicles?


----------



## rton20s

You can always try changing the display color to something that might be more pleasing. Your other option would be to order the Japanese version which may, or may not make any difference. 

DEH-970


----------



## nervewrecker

Tried everything, the whole screen looks white-ish from the right side and the color hardly shows up. From the left however, you see the color. 

Spent close to one months salary to get the 80-prs here, I dont think I willing to have to sell at a loss and fish out more again to get the 970.


----------



## rton20s

Have you tried adjusting the contrast? This is part of the initial setup after installation. You can also access it by pressing and holding the SRC button to turn off the head unit. Then press and hold the M.C. This will get you back into the initial setup where you can adjust the contrast between 0 and 15. Refer to pages 35 & 36 of the Operation Manual for full instructions.


----------



## ZAKOH

I might install my Pioneer DEH-80PRS today. It will be running a simple 2.1 setup with Hybrid Imagine front speakers running active. Any advise?

Can't wait to see how this combo sounds. I do want to get an RTA setup to study what exactly does the DEH-80PRS does to EQ and how flat are the speakers (in my car) without it.


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

ZAKOH said:


> I might install my Pioneer DEH-80PRS today. It will be running a simple 2.1 setup with Hybrid Imagine front speakers running active. Any advise?
> 
> Can't wait to see how this combo sounds. I do want to get an RTA setup to study what exactly does the DEH-80PRS does to EQ and how flat are the speakers (in my car) without it.



You may already know this, but make sure the head unit is off when connecting the RCA's on the head unit/amplifier to prevent the pico fuse problem that some have with Pioneer decks (Assuming the 80PRS has a pico fuse.)


----------



## nervewrecker

Already fiddled with the contrast. 

Thing is, its fine from the left seat but from the extreme right its sorta pinkish / whitish like if you turn the brightness up too much on your tv. 
When I hit the park lights and it dim's a bit the problem goes away a bit but I cant help but wonder if it was made for left hand drive vehicles.


----------



## ZAKOH

Ok, I got the head unit installed. However, I am having a major problem. I am unable to get into the main menu. When I press the main button, the screen just blinks. If I press the button and hold it, the menu is displayed. However, the menu screen is gone as soon as I release the button.


----------



## subwoofery

ZAKOH said:


> Ok, I got the head unit installed. However, I am having a major problem. I am unable to get into the main menu. When I press the main button, the screen just blinks. If I press the button and hold it, the menu is displayed. However, the menu screen is gone as soon as I release the button.


Front face is correctly inserted? 

Kelvin


----------



## SoulMan76

Got mine installed the other day and I love it, just wish the buttons were a little better though. I feel like the knob and lever will eventually break on it, or wear out very quickly.

I realize they made it a single din so it would cover all the applications, but a double din version would really have been icing on the cake, as so many cars are DD these days.

Still, this head unit is pretty damn nice IMO, worth every penny, anyone on the fence shouldn't hesitate. I did at first, because I didn't want any problems with the bluetooth or steering wheel controls, but I'm sorry I waited so long. It really is nice having 2 USB ports, an SD card slot, RCA aux input that can take high or low level signals, and a 3.5mm aux input, a CD player which will be hard to find in the near future, altogether it gives you plenty of options for your media.

To keep the steering wheel controls, I used the PAC SWIRC (2010 Kia Soul) and it works great. Cool thing is, you should be able to program buttons to do different things on your wheel if you wanted to. When I first programmed it, I had the track up and down steering buttons set to change albums instead. I didn't like it that way so I changed it back, but some might. 

The one problem I have, and I am pretty sure it is my phone, is that I can no longer start a call from my steering wheel with voice dial button. I can answer or end with the steering whell, but no start. All the other buttons work flawlessly. I remember reading on one of the manuals, not sure if was one of the PAC or Pioneer manuals, but if your phone isn't voice dial capable, then it won't work on the wheel. I was pretty sure my Epic 4G was voice capable, but I might just have a setting wrong. I never really used the voice dial on the factory radio as it always seemed to hear the wromg thing anyway, so this is very low on my list of things to fix.


----------



## Sonus

bugmenot said:


> Ok. How about anyone with a local USA model...could someone check?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> And if you manually are tuning the FM radio...what jumps does it make? ie. 87.1-> 87.2 OR 87.0 -> 87.2?


I can't seem to find if anyone answered this question?

US prices are dirt cheap compared to the local price of US$675 

But us non-US members need to know if the radio has the US steps only or not.

Thanks


----------



## ZAKOH

subwoofery said:


> Front face is correctly inserted?
> 
> Kelvin


Yes. Actually, I got a PM from sotelomichael. He fixed this issue by unplugging the calibration microphone from the rear.


----------



## subwoofery

ZAKOH said:


> Yes. Actually, I got a PM from sotelomichael. He fixed this issue by unplugging the calibration microphone from the rear.


Good to know it might not be a defective product 

Kelvin


----------



## rton20s

In case anyone was wondering about iPhone compatibility, the iPhone 5 is works with the DEH-80PRS. Pandora, iPod music and Maps navigation with Siri all work fine with the new lightning cable.


----------



## thomasluke

..............


----------



## thomasluke

ZAKOH said:


> Yes. Actually, I got a PM from sotelomichael. He fixed this issue by unplugging the calibration microphone from the rear.





subwoofery said:


> Good to know it might not be a defective product
> 
> Kelvin


Wait.....What???? Your doing calibrations from the back?????? I always use the aux on the front. Have i been doing it wrong?


----------



## bamelanc

rton20s said:


> In case anyone was wondering about iPhone compatibility, the iPhone 5 is works with the DEH-80PRS. Pandora, iPod music and Maps navigation with Siri all work fine with the new lightning cable.


Anyone notice 80PRS not controlling Pandora or other apps like Spotify. Can't go forward or back with tracks. I was able to thumb up/down tracks and select a station. Track forward on the deck and remote control doesn't seem to control the apps...unless y'all know something I don't. I will say the sound is much better than the DroidX I was using.


----------



## paulc35

This is a very common thought when you get good components because the run of the mill stuff doesn't give you the ability to refine your sound like good components do. What happens like in the pioneer case is it can reveal sounds on recordings you didn't even know were there. Most head units are veiled in some fashion, or another kind of like a signature sound belonging to the brand. 
So for years you use your Sony, which to the normal person with very ??pleasing DSP easy to use features you think "God this sound great" these head units use off the shelf Digital to analog converters and cheap components "capacitors, power supply,Resistors,etc. Then if you have capable speakers and a fairly good amp you have a company like pioneer put out a head unit that has not 1, or 2, but 3 Burr Brown Converters .1 for highs,1 for mids, 1 for lows. Plus high grade components, which is unheard of for $250. Then what you hear is the recording pure rather it was engineered good, or bad it comes through. I have a fairly high end tube setup in my house and my car is not competition,but has good components. I had been using the Kenwood Excelon X794, which for the money was what I thought at the time one of the best H/U I had heard in a long time. Being the purist I am. (No processing) When I saw the pioneer 80prs and read the about the components used at that price I was floored. I bought it. Yes the pure flat (as in no equalization) sound initially might make you think its junk and this is where your ear and experience come in. I put in a couple of CD recordings I was very familiar with and sure enough there it was. Was what? Instruments you would not hear, or be able to distinguish out on other H/U and I knew this was a great deck put to market at a great price. This type of quality in a head unit placed in a horrible acoustic enviroment.(The Car) will require a great deal of adjustment to get it to sound its best for your car. Most novices just think the sound was sucked from their car and all they want to do is pull out this horrible H/U and put back the over processed sound your use to. Give it a little time. read your manual. learn what the adjustments mean. Don't be so quick to dismiss one of the greatest head units brought to market at this price. This is my opinion only. Take it, or dont..





dyirendz said:


> Am I the only one that did not like that head unit at all? I was very eager to have that unit after reading all kinds of superlatives about it and when I finaly got it (waited a month, only 6 units for the whole country in June) my jaw hit the floor. As my midbase amp was sent for repair and was using some Y-spliters and amp crossovers I decided to wait a bit till I have it properly wired. After that no change. I am by no means expert and don't even have the knowledge to express what I do not like soundwise but this unit left me with the worse feeling after having deh-4000ub, nakamichi cd300, alpine 9855, and sony c910 for a few weeks.
> 
> With the current setup- dls ca41 for highs, groundzero 2225sq for mids and genesis profile sub runing seas prestige highs and mids and morel ultimo sc 12" I used the Alpine and the Sony. The nak and 4000ub I used without amp powering my Focal 165V1 which is not a good component set, very specific sounding.
> 
> Alpine was good HU but got stollen, I had some problems with the midrange but it has given me pleasure overall  . Sony c910 blew me away with only 1 adjustment of the DLS's crossover and gains and that was it. After the Sony I just put the 80prs and set it to flat eq and crossovers and it was so horrifiyng in some songs that I could not believe it. It was ok on demo discs and some more jazz songs but was total crap on most rock and pop songs. I waited to collect some opinions from experienced and non car audio ppl and there was no positive reaction. CD audio was compared to radio quality. Unlively...90s walkman... I start to think my unit is defective or something.
> 
> I know I do not look very credible but that's just my opinion. No trolling or something I can attach some pics and vids of my install. Just a guy that wants nice sounding new head unit, with extras if possible. For now I'm going to try Sony CDX-C90R and decide if I'm going to sell the Pio.


----------



## ChrisB

thomasluke said:


> Wait.....What???? Your doing calibrations from the back?????? I always use the aux on the front. Have i been doing it wrong?


Well duh, the mini jack on the back of the HU is for the steering wheel controller interface. Plugging the auto-eq microphone in there is a big NO-NO!:laugh:


----------



## thebookfreak58

bamelanc said:


> Anyone notice 80PRS not controlling Pandora or other apps like Spotify. Can't go forward or back with tracks. I was able to thumb up/down tracks and select a station. Track forward on the deck and remote control doesn't seem to control the apps...unless y'all know something I don't. I will say the sound is much better than the DroidX I was using.


I've got the same issue with streaming songs via BT...used to be able to control the tracks, now can't. Note this is with the iOS6 upgrade on an iPhone 4.


----------



## spl152db

thebookfreak58 said:


> I've got the same issue with streaming songs via BT...used to be able to control the tracks, now can't. Note this is with the iOS6 upgrade on an iPhone 4.


I have an android. works great on 2.3, 3.0, 4.0 and 4.1 thats gingerbread, honeycomb, ice cream sandwich and jellybean. I can still change tracks.


----------



## Shadowmarx

Well yesterday I was try'n somethings out.
Went to switch over to network mode and the switch fall off...
The switch that one slides over between standard to network 
Yeah...
Now its going to be a few weeks before I even hear my system.
I think I'm going to go through with drawl...


----------



## bamelanc

thebookfreak58 said:


> I've got the same issue with streaming songs via BT...used to be able to control the tracks, now can't. Note this is with the iOS6 upgrade on an iPhone 4.


Worked fine with my previous android. i5 uses Bluetooth 4.0...don't know if this is an issue. Going to check it with my girlfriend's i4s (IOS6) to see if it has the same issues. From what you posted it might be an IOS6 issue. I don't see Apple patching something like that for some time. 



spl152db said:


> I have an android. works great on 2.3, 3.0, 4.0 and 4.1 thats gingerbread, honeycomb, ice cream sandwich and jellybean. I can still change tracks.


What phone/s? If I return this i5, I'm looking at getting one of the new Moto RZRs or GSIII. I like the form of the RZRs better than GSIII, but I like the tech and features of GSIII the most.

My DroidX was a tank and reliable. A turtle compared to the i5 or GSIII.

Anyone notice and changes in SQ using i5 Bluetooth over older tech?


----------



## spl152db

bamelanc said:


> Worked fine with my previous android. i5 uses Bluetooth 4.0...don't know if this is an issue. Going to check it with my girlfriend's i4s (IOS6) to see if it has the same issues. From what you posted it might be an IOS6 issue. I don't see Apple patching something like that for some time.
> 
> 
> 
> What phone/s? If I return this i5, I'm looking at getting one of the new Moto RZRs or GSIII. I like the form of the RZRs better than GSIII, but I like the tech and features of GSIII the most.
> 
> My DroidX was a tank and reliable. A turtle compared to the i5 or GSIII.
> 
> Anyone notice and changes in SQ using i5 Bluetooth over older tech?


I have the razr currently. It's perfect. I've also used an infuse and a windows phone (forgot about that one) on it. All worked perfectly.


----------



## duro78

bamelanc said:


> Worked fine with my previous android. i5 uses Bluetooth 4.0...don't know if this is an issue. Going to check it with my girlfriend's i4s (IOS6) to see if it has the same issues. From what you posted it might be an IOS6 issue. I don't see Apple patching something like that for some time.
> 
> 
> 
> What phone/s? If I return this i5, I'm looking at getting one of the new Moto RZRs or GSIII. I like the form of the RZRs better than GSIII, but I like the tech and features of GSIII the most.
> 
> My DroidX was a tank and reliable. A turtle compared to the i5 or GSIII.
> 
> Anyone notice and changes in SQ using i5 Bluetooth over older tech?


Off topic but Get the s3 you wont regret it. Its an awesome phone. I had a droid x previously and the s3 definetly a nice upgrade.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## thomasluke

ChrisB said:


> Well duh, the mini jack on the back of the HU is for the steering wheel controller interface. Plugging the auto-eq microphone in there is a big NO-NO!:laugh:


Dodged a bullet........:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## IDGAF

So, after trying to tune manually and getting it pretty good, I finally got around to using the Auto EQ. I wanted to see the difference.

The T/A was almost exactly where I had it, but when I went into "Graphic EQ 2," it was set perfectly flat. Does that mean it auto'ed it to flat or is that just a baseline for me to tweak from the "hidden" EQ curve or what?

Sorry if this has been covered in here already. It's a big ass thread to read through.


----------



## spl152db

IDGAF said:


> So, after trying to tune manually and getting it pretty good, I finally got around to using the Auto EQ. I wanted to see the difference.
> 
> The T/A was almost exactly where I had it, but when I went into "Graphic EQ 2," it was set perfectly flat. Does that mean it auto'ed it to flat or is that just a baseline for me to tweak from the "hidden" EQ curve or what?
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered in here already. It's a big ass thread to read through.


its a baseline to adjust from.


----------



## mcqueena

IDGAF said:


> So, after trying to tune manually and getting it pretty good, I finally got around to using the Auto EQ. I wanted to see the difference.
> 
> The T/A was almost exactly where I had it, but when I went into "Graphic EQ 2," it was set perfectly flat. Does that mean it auto'ed it to flat or is that just a baseline for me to tweak from the "hidden" EQ curve or what?
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered in here already. It's a big ass thread to read through.


Unfortunately, the unit does not show you the Auto EQ settings. You can only turn the Auto EQ on or off.


----------



## ChrisB

Finally got mine installed.

1. The display washed out with it being overcast outside.
2. That GD Beep confirmation BS every time a button is pressed has to go.
3. Auto-EQ/Time Alignment isn't that bad. Not great but better than out of the box with everything flat.
4. If Alpine manufactures a modern version of the 9887 that competes with the DEH-80PRS, I'll buy it tomorrow!

ETA: 5. Pioneer's cumbersome menu structure can suck it!


----------



## Danometal

ChrisB said:


> Finally got mine installed.
> 
> 1. The display washed out with it being overcast outside.
> 2. That GD Beep confirmation BS every time a button is pressed has to go.
> 3. Auto-EQ/Time Alignment isn't that bad. Not great but better than out of the box with everything flat.
> 4. If Alpine manufactures a modern version of the 9887 that competes with the DEH-80PRS, I'll buy it tomorrow!
> 
> ETA: 5. Pioneer's cumbersome menu structure can suck it!


Same here #4. I really like my CDA-117, but I considered upgrading to the PRS. However, after being subscribed to this thread for a long time, I think I'll just rock my 117 until Alpine releases something with active Xovers and T/A. My analog Xover unit is working out just fine in the meantime.


----------



## ChrisB

Danometal said:


> Same here #4. I really like my CDA-117, but I considered upgrading to the PRS. However, after being subscribed to this thread for a long time, I think I'll just rock my 117 until Alpine releases something with active Xovers and T/A. My analog Xover unit is working out just fine in the meantime.


I had the pioneer up and running for nearly 2 days now and it has yet to grow on me. It sounds good, and is easy to operate once you get past the initial setup. I almost need a minor in Pioneer menus to change the settings though.

Also, I grit my teeth every time that HU beeps. Gosh that is bloody annoying!


----------



## Danometal

ChrisB said:


> I had the pioneer up and running for nearly 2 days now and it has yet to grow on me. It sounds good, and is easy to operate once you get past the initial setup. I almost need a minor in Pioneer menus to change the settings though.
> 
> Also, I grit my teeth every time that HU beeps. Gosh that is bloody annoying!


I don't think I would like hearing a beep each time I push a button. I push buttons all the time messing with the EQ or something. I wonder why they designed it to do that?


----------



## rton20s

My guess is auditory feedback to confirm a button push. Getting the audio feedback reduces the need (in some cases) to take your eyes off of the road to look at the head unit. It's probably a CYA safety feature as much as anything.


----------



## ChrisB

Matters not, I am in the process of completing a RMA to send it back. I'm kind of screwed for an all-in-one solution, but at this point in the game, I really don't care.


----------



## quality_sound

On older Pioneers with key on and radio powered off you could press the preset buttons to turn things like demo mode and the button beep on and off. I would be surprised if there wasn't a menu setting for this.


----------



## ChrisB

quality_sound said:


> On older Pioneers with key on and radio powered off you could press the preset buttons to turn things like demo mode and the button beep on and off. I would be surprised if there wasn't a menu setting for this.


There isn't. Unless there is some super, duper, ultra secret menu that gets to that setting.


----------



## quality_sound

Do they still have the hidden settings menu that you can only get into with the key on but the radio off?


----------



## nismos14

quality_sound said:


> Do they still have the hidden settings menu that you can only get into with the key on but the radio off?


A what now? What's in that menu?


----------



## janok

Sonus said:


> I can't seem to find if anyone answered this question?
> 
> US prices are dirt cheap compared to the local price of US$675
> 
> But us non-US members need to know if the radio has the US steps only or not.
> 
> Thanks


Hei! har du funnet ut om radioen kun har us step?

Mvh

Jan Oskar


----------



## ChrisB

quality_sound said:


> Do they still have the hidden settings menu that you can only get into with the key on but the radio off?


Yep, and it is NOT in there. It matters not though because soon this radio will be nothing more than a bad memory as I am within the 60 day satisfaction guarantee at Crutchfield.


----------



## rton20s

ChrisB said:


> Finally got mine installed.
> 
> 1. The display washed out with it being overcast outside.
> 2. That GD Beep confirmation BS every time a button is pressed has to go.
> 3. Auto-EQ/Time Alignment isn't that bad. Not great but better than out of the box with everything flat.
> 4. If Alpine manufactures a modern version of the 9887 that competes with the DEH-80PRS, I'll buy it tomorrow!
> 
> ETA: 5. Pioneer's cumbersome menu structure can suck it!





ChrisB said:


> Yep, and it is NOT in there. It matters not though because soon this radio will be nothing more than a bad memory as I am within the 60 day satisfaction guarantee at Crutchfield.


I totally understand the DEH-80PRS not being everyone's cup of tea. Lots of other options out there if you want time alignment and active crossovers. When I purchase my head unit though, there were ZERO options within my budget outside of this HU. And if I was in the same position today, I would make the same choice. My take on your concerns, having lived with this head unit since just after it was released...

1. I've never had the display "wash out" on me. Perhaps that is because of how my windows are oriented to my dash (xB) compared to your car. The only time the display ever "washes out" in any way is when at certain angles with my polarized lens sunglasses on. 

2. I don't even really notice the beep at all anymore. I know it is there, but I don't even notice it. Certainly not enough for me to consider dumping the HU for another solution. 

3. Haven't had a chance to make full use of the digital time alignment and crossovers myself. (Still have to complete my install.) Given the price point, have you used any current head unit or head unit + processor combinations that are superior? (I'm curious about the CZ702 myself.)

4. Sadly, Alpine has got squat. And I see them moving further way from a capable head unit at a reasonable price. Maybe seeing the success of the DEH-80PRS and (possibly) CZ702, they could change their mind. I guess we won't know until at least January.


----------



## ErinH

I posted this in my build log a couple weeks ago but never thought to post it up here:




bikinpunk said:


> pretty minor update but figured I'd share in case others wanted to do the same...
> 
> the pioneer 80prs looks like a total POS, IMO. BUT, it's features are what make me keep it around. I really hate the chrome (plastic) toggle wings and the chrome lining on the volume knob. So, I decided to paint it.
> 
> At first I started with the color I had matched to the dash a couple years back. But, when I put it together and in the dash, it looked stupid. So, I went with gloss black next. It looked good but I thought maybe a bit too glossy. Only other thing available on hand was flat black so went with that and it worked pretty well so that's what I stayed with.
> 
> All in all, it's still not great but it looks better to me than with the chrome junk.
> 
> One day I'd like to have someone machine me an entire new faceplate with buttons and all that to give it a more robust feel. I'll also look in to tinting the display window to (possibly) give it some contrast. As it is, there's a lot of bleedthrough from the display's letters and the contrast between the text and background is really poor. The P99 nailed this and I wish they had used the same display piece on the 80prs. Pioneer was sooooo close here... but it's the best thing at it's price point so a few mods will help to make it more aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> If someone wants to do the same, it's actually very easy. Just a few phillips screws on the back and a flat head to pop the faceplate apart. Just be careful when you take the display out because there's a couple springs in there (one is for the faceplate dismount button and the other is a levered-spring that is for the toggle wings). Outside of those two little heads-up, it's extremely easy to take it apart for modification. Also, the volume knob literally pulls right off without having to disassemble the faceplate. You can pull that off, paint it, and push it right back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:





I've actually repainted the volume knob a gloss black and it looks really good. Made all the difference in the world as far as aesthetics. At least to me.


Ironically, I wound up buying a P99 again because I missed the quality it oozed. But, at $700 more, it better ooze quality. 

The 80prs really does a great job at everything. So far, it's served me well. I just wish they could take it and get rid of the cheap look/feel. Maybe add some metal knobs, and buttons. Do that and change the display to OLED (like the p99) and charge $100 more than current msrp and I bet sales would do really, really well. But, to make it affordable to the budget audiophile, it seems they skimped in the right places (plastic parts). I'd rather they skimp there than in the electronics section.


----------



## quality_sound

If the P99 had buttons for track up/down instead of a knob I'd run it. I HATE having to twist a knob for anything except volume.


----------



## ChrisB

rton20s said:


> I totally understand the DEH-80PRS not being everyone's cup of tea. Lots of other options out there if you want time alignment and active crossovers. When I purchase my head unit though, there were ZERO options within my budget outside of this HU. And if I was in the same position today, I would make the same choice. My take on your concerns, having lived with this head unit since just after it was released...
> 
> 1. I've never had the display "wash out" on me. Perhaps that is because of how my windows are oriented to my dash (xB) compared to your car. The only time the display ever "washes out" in any way is when at certain angles with my polarized lens sunglasses on.
> 
> 2. I don't even really notice the beep at all anymore. I know it is there, but I don't even notice it. Certainly not enough for me to consider dumping the HU for another solution.


That beep drives me apeshit. You have no idea how much I hate audible beeps as confirmation. There should be a way to turn it off, and I am all ears before I yank the HU out. It comes out when my wife leaves for work tomorrow morning. 



rton20s said:


> 3. Haven't had a chance to make full use of the digital time alignment and crossovers myself. (Still have to complete my install.) Given the price point, have you used any current head unit or head unit + processor combinations that are superior? (I'm curious about the CZ702 myself.)
> 
> 4. Sadly, Alpine has got squat. And I see them moving further way from a capable head unit at a reasonable price. Maybe seeing the success of the DEH-80PRS and (possibly) CZ702, they could change their mind. I guess we won't know until at least January.


That's the thing, I was trying to get away without purchasing a HU and a processor. I guess I learned the same lesson that I learned the last time I tried to go on the cheap... Buy cheap, buy twice.


----------



## ErinH

re: the beep.

is it system wide? I honestly forget about it. Just wondering if there's a small speaker built in that emanates the beep or if it goes through the system. if there's a speaker, there's got to be a way to disable it.


----------



## ChrisB

bikinpunk said:


> re: the beep.
> 
> is it system wide? I honestly forget about it. Just wondering if there's a small speaker built in that emanates the beep or if it goes through the system. if there's a speaker, there's got to be a way to disable it.


I'm not voiding a warranty on a Pioneer with a Pico fuse. My luck, which is bad, the pico fuse will pop or something else will go wrong and they will see that it has been opened. Thought of that already.


----------



## ErinH

paranoid.


----------



## ChrisB

bikinpunk said:


> paranoid.


Yep, and being realistic.:laugh:


----------



## thomasluke

bikinpunk said:


> re: the beep.
> 
> is it system wide? I honestly forget about it. Just wondering if there's a small speaker built in that emanates the beep or if it goes through the system. if there's a speaker, there's got to be a way to disable it.


It seems to me that there has got to be some sort of a small speaker. It just come from the hu......somewhere. 
I have the thing in my hands holding it very closely to face trying to determine where exactly this beep is coming from.
EDIT: If you were trying to find it, were would you look first?


----------



## ErinH

The only thing in the service manual that _might_ be it is this:
Buzzer
CPV1062
BZ601

The diagram(s) show a speaker illustration for "buzzer". There's nothing in the manual about disabling it, though. If I had time to crack the case I could check on the possibility of simply breaking the connection but at the same time, I'm not sure how you'd do this without possibly damaging something on the board. Maybe once the case is open it would be an easy thing to do but I don't have time to deal with it right now.


----------



## thomasluke

Service Manual???? Did it come in the box? I've only read through the disc.


----------



## Shadowmarx

That beep bothered me for awhile... Not so much any more...
The thing that does bug me is how cheap it feels...
I just can't seem to get use to it...
I'm going for a DSP and been think'n of put'n in my Old kenwood 
as then it wont matter what the head unit does.....
And on my point about cheap build.. My 80 is in the shop...
The button one slides to set network or standard fell off in the head unit... 
Sound wise it's great, once u get it all set it sound fantastic....
It just feels like I could break it... Oh I did...lol


----------



## ErinH

thomasluke said:


> Service Manual???? Did it come in the box? I've only read through the disc.


ordered it from pacparts.


----------



## tnbubba

turn the beep off... duh..its in the menu..
or are you referring to the remote beep when scaling the volume


----------



## ChrisB

tnbubba said:


> turn the beep off... duh..its in the menu..
> or are you referring to the remote beep when scaling the volume


Steering wheel remote beep when doing volume or changing a track. As if I need a confirmation to tell me that I made it louder or changed tracks. That has to be the dumbest f*cking implementation I ever dealt with.


----------



## tnbubba

yea annoying as ****.....
write pioneer and ***** ***** boitch nag nag nag..
put on your best skirt and give em hell
im still trying to get answers on stuff..


----------



## ChrisB

tnbubba said:


> yea annoying as ****.....
> write pioneer and ***** ***** boitch nag nag nag..
> put on your best skirt and give em hell
> im still trying to get answers on stuff..


It's not worth it to even bother with Pioneer. I'll just do my usual routine take my money elsewhere for my next purchase. The way I see it, I'll cause at least a dozen or so people to NOT purchase this HU when they ask me what I think about it. That in and of itself is enough satisfaction for me.


----------



## ErinH

Name something better at its price point. That's why I'll recommend it, albeit with caveats regarding my gripes about the cheap feel.


----------



## ChrisB

bikinpunk said:


> Name something better at its price point. That's why I'll recommend it, albeit with caveats regarding my gripes about the cheap feel.


The only other thing is the Clarion cz702, and sadly, this is the battle of what sucks less versus the battle of which head unit is superior. As much as it pains me to admit it, the Pioneer sucks less than the Clarion does. If Alpine releases a HU with built-in imprint and competes with the DEH-80PRS, I'll pre-order it!

NOW, when the locals in my car group, who generally do NOT need active, ask me what I think about this Pioneer, I will steer them to Alpine, Clarion, JVC, and Kenwood in a heartbeat.


----------



## rton20s

I have to say, I'm with bikinpunk. For the money, I don't think there is a better solution on the market today. If you're willing/able to spend more there are a ton of stand alone options, and of course the DEX-P99RS. And while I'm not enthused about the build quality of the head unit, I think they skimped in the right places to get the price point where they wanted it. Which has been stated in here by several others many times. 

There are just some of us who are willing to dismiss a perfectly competent piece of equipment based on superficial criteria and some of us who are not. Having said that, if Pioneer were to release an update to the DEH-80PRS next year with the same guts and upgraded build quality at a slightly higher price point, my 80PRS would be finding a new home in the wife's car.


----------



## morgan18

ChrisB said:


> The only other thing is the Clarion cz702, and sadly, this is the battle of what sucks less versus the battle of which head unit is superior. As much as it pains me to admit it, the Pioneer sucks less than the Clarion does. If Alpine releases a HU with built-in imprint and competes with the DEH-80PRS, I'll pre-order it!
> 
> NOW, when the locals in my car group, who generally do NOT need active, ask me what I think about this Pioneer, I will steer them to Alpine, Clarion, JVC, and Kenwood in a heartbeat.


I had the clarion cz702 first and ended up returning it and getting the p80rs. What killed it for me with the cz702 was the static at low volumes. Can't hear it when driving but still I hated it. The p80rs is dead quiet. On the other hand The clarion did seem to have a stronger preout section, with my dmm it measured around 3.75v at max. Both beat the crap out of the alpine 9887 I had previously.


----------



## ChrisB

Well, I have good news to report. I falsely blamed the DEH-80PRS for my noise issues when in fact it IS the Alpine PDX V9. I should have known better than to take the cheap way out with regards to a 5 channel amp...

Now that annoying ass beep, I'm just going to deal with it because short of dropping nearly $2k, I don't think I can do any better in this price range.

EDIT: Other than the beep, my only complaint is that I get some sort of interference noise if I use bluetooth for hands free or audio streaming. It exists in the stereo by merely pairing the phone with the HU, and it is transmitted through the "noise canceling" microphone on calls. If I had to describe the noise, it reminds me of when I used to put my former employer provided Blackberry next to the phone or computer speakers, but real faint.


----------



## janok

Hello

can someone please tell me if the us modell of the DEH-80PRS only has us step on the radio? 

Regards 

Jan Oskar

Norway


----------



## spl152db

janok said:


> Hello
> 
> can someone please tell me if the us modell of the DEH-80PRS only has us step on the radio?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jan Oskar
> 
> Norway


it goes in .1/3/5/7/9


----------



## janok

spl152db said:


> it goes in .1/3/5/7/9


Thanks!


----------



## tnbubba

yea for the $$$ nothing comes close.. for active HU..I did go thru 2 bad HU ??? before I got one that would put out anything close to 5V with a Odbfs signal off the USB input...
maybe the USB receiver was bad?


----------



## ChrisB

Well, here is a weird one... I re-synchronized my iFail 4S with the HU and now no more Bluetooth noise. Weird...


----------



## slaming

Which microphone do I use for Auto TA? And where do I plug it in? Because the microphone with the 3.5mm connector does not fit in the solely labeled microphone jack. I tried to plug it into the aux jack and when I do that, I am not able to get into the menu.


----------



## 07azhhr

The round one with the flat bottom and domed top. Plug it into the front jack. The ones in the back are for the hands free mic and an aux in I believe. With the correct mic in the front jack you should still be able to use the HU fully. You should be able to access all menu's even the 5 or so hidden menu's. Atleast I have been able to.


----------



## spl152db

slaming said:


> Which microphone do I use for Auto TA? And where do I plug it in? Because the microphone with the 3.5mm connector does not fit in the solely labeled microphone jack. I tried to plug it into the aux jack and when I do that, I am not able to get into the menu.


The round dome one. Plugs into the faceplate. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## vactor

remember the days when you cloud get a headunit with differential balanced outputs, 16 volts, 3 way adjustable slope crossovers, DC/DC converter, amazing build quality, big single DIN displays, and have a choice between manufacturers?? i miss those days


----------



## slaming

spl152db said:


> The round dome one. Plugs into the faceplate.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2



Thanks. Now, I connected it and went to Time Alignment and tried to select Auto TA. When ti does that, it says "Set Auto TA". The same goes with Auto EQ. Do you know what they mean?

Thanks


----------



## spl152db

slaming said:


> Thanks. Now, I connected it and went to Time Alignment and tried to select Auto TA. When ti does that, it says "Set Auto TA". The same goes with Auto EQ. Do you know what they mean?
> 
> Thanks


Yea. You need to use auto ta and eq first. Also means you didn't read the manual. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## subwoofery

spl152db said:


> Yea. You need to use auto ta and eq first. *Also means you didn't read the manual. *
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Thought the exact same thing with his first post... 

Kelvin


----------



## 07azhhr

slaming said:


> Thanks. Now, I connected it and went to Time Alignment and tried to select Auto TA. When ti does that, it says "Set Auto TA". The same goes with Auto EQ. Do you know what they mean?
> 
> Thanks


 
To use the auto eg/ta turn the hu OFF but leave the key on. Then press and hold the eq button (the one to the right center of the volumn knob) until the hidden menu pops up. This menu will say auto eq then under it it will show the word start. Be sure that the mic is set up and plugged into the front jack before you move forward. Once the mic is ready then press the volumn knob for a second and you will see "countdown 10..9...8..." This is a 10 second warning to get out of the car and shut all the doors.Once the auto tune is complete it will say "complete".


----------



## slaming

spl152db said:


> Yea. You need to use auto ta and eq first. Also means you didn't read the manual.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2





subwoofery said:


> Thought the exact same thing with his first post...
> 
> Kelvin


Wow, you guys are so insightful. 



07azhhr said:


> To use the auto eg/ta turn the hu OFF but leave the key on. Then press and hold the eq button (the one to the right center of the volumn knob) until the hidden menu pops up. This menu will say auto eq then under it it will show the word start. Be sure that the mic is set up and plugged into the front jack before you move forward. Once the mic is ready then press the volumn knob for a second and you will see "countdown 10..9...8..." This is a 10 second warning to get out of the car and shut all the doors.Once the auto tune is complete it will say "complete".


Thanks a lot man. The only manuals that seem to have come with my head unit talk about installation.

I started the process, but after countdown it says "ERR: Front Speaker". In the online manual, it says this message displays when the mic cannot hear the front speaker. Since no sound came out of the speakers, I wasn't surprised. It said I need to check the connections, make sure the speaker isn't on mute. Well, music comes out of the speaker just fine. Has this issue been brought up before?


----------



## SoulMan76

you can print them both off of pioneers website. I did both install and users guide before I even purchased the 80prs, just to see what it was like. I have to say though, the pioneer manuals really stink. It's just seems like it's not layed out right, to many words on one page, half bold half not..it looks like a mess. Some manuals are a pleasure to read/look at, these are not..IMHO anyway. 


But the manual ain't the reason I purchased it, so who cares right, the HU works great and that's what matters.


----------



## 07azhhr

slaming said:


> Thanks a lot man. The only manuals that seem to have come with my head unit talk about installation.
> 
> I started the process, but after countdown it says "ERR: Front Speaker". In the online manual, it says this message displays when the mic cannot hear the front speaker. Since no sound came out of the speakers, I wasn't surprised. It said I need to check the connections, make sure the speaker isn't on mute. Well, music comes out of the speaker just fine. Has this issue been brought up before?


The CD that came with the HU is the manual. 

how do you have your speakers connected to the HU? Are you in standard mode or network mode? Do you have the RCA's (if using rca's  ) connected correctly in relation to front and rear labeled outputs on the back of the hu. I know I found it hard to read the letter indicators on the back and also found it wierd that the front's would be below the rear's (for standard mode) as compared to the rears turning into the high out and the fronts turning into the mid out when in network mode. So check those. If your fronts are playing off the rear (top set of rca's when in standard mode) then no noise will be heard when the hu sends the signal thru the front (middle set) rca's for the test.


----------



## gckless

For most people, is the pico fuse an issue? Do most people ground RCA's to the HU chassis? I'm installing mine next week, just want to do it right the first time. I understand I shouldn't have a problem if I connect/disconnect without it powered on, but do most people take extra precautions?


----------



## ZAKOH

gckless said:


> For most people, is the pico fuse an issue? Do most people ground RCA's to the HU chassis? I'm installing mine next week, just want to do it right the first time. I understand I shouldn't have a problem if I connect/disconnect without it powered on, but do most people take extra precautions?


I didn't do anything special to install mine. Works just fine for 2.1 active setup.


----------



## slaming

07azhhr said:


> The CD that came with the HU is the manual.
> 
> how do you have your speakers connected to the HU? Are you in standard mode or network mode? Do you have the RCA's (if using rca's  ) connected correctly in relation to front and rear labeled outputs on the back of the hu. I know I found it hard to read the letter indicators on the back and also found it wierd that the front's would be below the rear's (for standard mode) as compared to the rears turning into the high out and the fronts turning into the mid out when in network mode. So check those. If your fronts are playing off the rear (top set of rca's when in standard mode) then no noise will be heard when the hu sends the signal thru the front (middle set) rca's for the test.


I'm in standard mode. 

Yeah, my front speakers (I don't have rears) were connected to the rear output. Fixed that, and now TA and Auto EQ work. I'll have to figure out how to fine tune them later, have a paper to write. All I can say as of yet is that I have converted a bunch of flac files to wav, and the sound quality is excellent. I don't care about the cheap-looking/feeling hardware. The beep is only mildly annoying. This is an amazing headunit and I can't wait to play with it some more when I have time.


----------



## ZAKOH

I haven't had much time to play with my new DEH-80PRS. Last week I finally got around to run the auto-tune. The result is very good, better than what I expected. This really cleared up the mid-range, treble, and imaging. I use HAT Imagine speakers in my car, and for some reason, without any tuning, their mid-range is completely gutless. It's just too laid back in my car (I don't know if it's my car or the speakers). This kind of made my miss my Alpine SPR-17S speakers. The auto-tune made the midrange more up-front, the way I like. The treble became more defined too. Another thing that the head unit seems to do spot on is the phase coherency between the subwoofer and the front stage. The front woofers are time delayed by "80inches" and the subwoofer phase is flipped 180degrees. This seems counter intuitive but it works. (I wouldn't have tried such setting myself as the starting point).

The only issue I don't like is what the auto-tune did to the low frequencies. The high pass on the woofers is 125Hz, even though they can play as low as 60Hz with a sharp crossover without straining. The subwoofer low pass is 80Hz. However, the worst of all the subwoofer level was 6-7dB down from the baseline. In addition, even though I have a single subwoofer, the head unit for some reason decided to run the left and right subwoofer outs in stereo mode. The left and right sub channels did not have the same settings with respect to time alignment (off by 3inches from each other) and levels (off by 1-2dB). However, once I manually corrected these issues, the system sounds great. The bass highpass/low pass crossover points were brought back to 63Hz, as I don't really like the sound of subwoofer low passed at 80Hz (vibrations and other noises make the subwoofer less transparent with 80Hz low pass in my car).

Overall I am happy with the purchase. The only thing I wish for right now is being able to force the head unit to use my preferred crossover settings with the auto-tune. I will listen to my music as is for some time, and hook up an RTA system to the head unit (one of the reasons I like this unit) to see how it tuned the sound system.


----------



## 07azhhr

ZAKOH said:


> I haven't had much time to play with my new DEH-80PRS. Last week I finally got around to run the auto-tune. The result is very good, better than what I expected. This really cleared up the mid-range, treble, and imaging. I use HAT Imagine speakers in my car, and for some reason, without any tuning, their mid-range is completely gutless. It's just too laid back in my car (I don't know if it's my car or the speakers). This kind of made my miss my Alpine SPR-17S speakers. The auto-tune made the midrange more up-front, the way I like. The treble became more defined too. Another thing that the head unit seems to do spot on is the phase coherency between the subwoofer and the front stage. The front woofers are time delayed by "80inches" and the subwoofer phase is flipped 180degrees. This seems counter intuitive but it works. (I wouldn't have tried such setting myself as the starting point).
> 
> The only issue I don't like is what the auto-tune did to the low frequencies. The high pass on the woofers is 125Hz, even though they can play as low as 60Hz with a sharp crossover without straining. The subwoofer low pass is 80Hz. However, the worst of all the subwoofer level was 6-7dB down from the baseline. In addition, even though I have a single subwoofer, the head unit for some reason decided to run the left and right subwoofer outs in stereo mode. The left and right sub channels did not have the same settings with respect to time alignment (off by 3inches from each other) and levels (off by 1-2dB). However, once I manually corrected these issues, the system sounds great. The bass highpass/low pass crossover points were brought back to 63Hz, as I don't really like the sound of subwoofer low passed at 80Hz (vibrations and other noises make the subwoofer less transparent with 80Hz low pass in my car).
> 
> Overall I am happy with the purchase. The only thing I wish for right now is being able to force the head unit to use my preferred crossover settings with the auto-tune. I will listen to my music as is for some time, and hook up an RTA system to the head unit (one of the reasons I like this unit) to see how it tuned the sound system.


Many of the settings get put back to factory settings when you run the autotune. Like the subs being put into stereo. I have even had mine give me different delays for each sub yet I too have only one sub running at the moment. I write each tune down so I can go back and put those settings back as well as try them manually in various combos.

I was having an issue with the right midbass being stronger then the left each time I ran the auto tune. I started playing with the left sides x-over point and slope. I ran a new auto tune with these seperate settings and the hu got it right that time. I was then able to match the slopes and x-over point without effecting the midbass balance. Seams sometimes the x-over points will stay but most of the tunes I have done so far seem to spit back the same settings which are not the ones that I start with lol.


----------



## tnbubba

yea i had the ta/s in mine still go all out of whack.. whatsit i mean it a single cab truck.. not had to figure one speaker at 53 and the other 33" from my freaking head but the unit put is them at like double that. and the sub which ins in the middle if the freakin cab wtf out at like 160"... and it did the same 125/ hz crap the ZAKOH did.. and mine is mono switched it to stereo and put it like 6 db down.
im trying to figure out wtf and how this dam unit work.. I like my ea and t/a setting way better than the auto tunes.. changing out all my speakers next week to what im gonna run full time but just played with a 2 way /sub setup just to check things out first


----------



## Shadowmarx

tnbubba said:


> yea i had the ta/s in mine still go all out of whack.. whatsit i mean it a single cab truck.. not had to figure one speaker at 53 and the other 33" from my freaking head but the unit put is them at like double that. and the sub which ins in the middle if the freakin cab wtf out at like 160"... and it did the same 125/ hz crap the ZAKOH did.. and mine is mono switched it to stereo and put it like 6 db
> im trying to figure out wtf and how this dam unit work.. I like my ea and t/a setting way better than the auto tunes.. changing out all my speakers next week to what im gonna run full time but just played with a 2 way /sub setup just to check things out first


>?????<


----------



## nismos14

tnbubba said:


> yea i had the ta/s in mine still go all out of whack.. whatsit i mean it a single cab truck.. not had to figure one speaker at 53 and the other 33" from my freaking head but the unit put is them at like double that. and the sub which ins in the middle if the freakin cab wtf out at like 160"... and it did the same 125/ hz crap the ZAKOH did.. and mine is mono switched it to stereo and put it like 6 db down.
> im trying to figure out wtf and how this dam unit work.. I like my ea and t/a setting way better than the auto tunes.. changing out all my speakers next week to what im gonna run full time but just played with a 2 way /sub setup just to check things out first


What in the


----------



## 07azhhr

tnbubba said:


> yea i had the ta/s in mine still go all out of whack.. whatsit i mean it a single cab truck.. not had to figure one speaker at 53 and the other 33" from my freaking head but the unit put is them at like double that. and the sub which ins in the middle if the freakin cab wtf out at like 160"... and it did the same 125/ hz crap the ZAKOH did.. and mine is mono switched it to stereo and put it like 6 db down.
> im trying to figure out wtf and how this dam unit work.. I like my ea and t/a setting way better than the auto tunes.. changing out all my speakers next week to what im gonna run full time but just played with a 2 way /sub setup just to check things out first


I was talking to fellow member here yesterday that runs the P99 and it does the same thing with the ODD distances. Mine does it too. I used a tape measure and measured around 10-15 less inches then this 80 spits out. but I built mine and a/b'd them switching from custom to auto and back and forth for a while and I liked theirs better. I tweaked off of theirs because of that. The 125 setting though is odd. Mine always reverts to 50.


----------



## tnbubba

well unless the T/A does something weird because of phase at the crossover point.. physics is physics and the distance should be pretty damn close.. between mids n tweets.. not off like feet or even more than a few inches.
i could see how sub or woofer mtg.. could get distances out of whack because of phase.. but not a distance larger than the interior dimension of a single cab truck.
what i want to know is how the DEH determines X/O point by distortion, phase or what?
when the sub in in the middle of the frekin truck and equal distance to the listening position as the mids.. it's distance should not be double!


----------



## spl152db

Higher numbers give a tighter ratio. You can be more precise.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## tnbubba

when the mid and tweet are freking 3" apart why does the DEH put the t/a at like 50" and 70"??
duh!


----------



## ChrisB

tnbubba said:


> when the mid and tweet are freking 3" apart why does the DEH put the t/a at like 50" and 70"??
> duh!


Don't feel bad, it put my sub 86" away and it is a whopping 46 inches away. And NO, I didn't have the gain cranked to basshead levels either... I save that for AFTER the automatic tuning process.:laugh:


----------



## 07azhhr

So I just opened up the manual and found that it states to set the sub x-over in the HU to the highest setting before performing the autotune. Very interesting. I have turned my amps lpf as high as it can go since it can not be defeated but I have not set the hu lpf to it's highest setting. Have any of you tried it this way? Isn't it somewhere around 200hz? 

I like my current tune so I am not sure I want to try this but I wonder what the difference in results would be.


----------



## slaming

I have a question. When I set Auto EQ, then go to one of the preset EQ settings (Powerful, natural, etc), it changes sound when I switch between them. But Auto EQ is still on. I thought the purpose of auto EQ is to replace your custom and preset EQ settings with an automatically generated one?


----------



## nismos14

slaming said:


> I have a question. When I set Auto EQ, then go to one of the preset EQ settings (Powerful, natural, etc), it changes sound when I switch between them. But Auto EQ is still on. I thought the purpose of auto EQ is to replace your custom and preset EQ settings with an automatically generated one?


It is, and if you want to use the Auto EQ set, and only that, then you are supposed to leave your preset on flat. 

Changing the preset EQ, or adjusting the customs allows you to tailor what your pioneer auto eq settings are in case you need a little more midbass or whatever. IMO, that's better then it being a rigid EQ that lets you do nothing.


----------



## slaming

nismos14 said:


> It is, and if you want to use the Auto EQ set, and only that, then you are supposed to leave your preset on flat.
> 
> This allows you to tailor your auto eq settings in case you need a little more midbass or whatever. IMO, that's better then it being a rigid EQ that lets you do nothing.


I do notice a difference when I have auto EQ set with Flat selected vs. auto EQ with Powerful selected.


----------



## nismos14

slaming said:


> I do notice a difference when I have auto EQ set with Flat selected vs. auto EQ with Powerful selected.


That's exactly what should happen.


----------



## morgan18

Does anyone know how to make it so the unit does not turn off and on whenever you change CDs ? I looked over the manual and no luck. I have an ms8 and there is always a constant fear of the airplane noise and this cycling every time I change CDs is not helping. I hope there is a fix for it.


----------



## spl152db

morgan18 said:


> Does anyone know how to make it so the unit does not turn off and on whenever you change CDs ? I looked over the manual and no luck. I have an ms8 and there is always a constant fear of the airplane noise and this cycling every time I change CDs is not helping. I hope there is a fix for it.


Probably not. Just run your Ms 8 off the accessory wire instead of remote wire. Turn on and off with car.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## subwoofery

morgan18 said:


> Does anyone know how to make it so the unit does not turn off and on whenever you change CDs ? I looked over the manual and no luck. I have an ms8 and there is always a constant fear of the airplane noise and this cycling every time I change CDs is not helping. I hope there is a fix for it.


It really does that? 

Kelvin


----------



## morgan18

Thanks thats what I figured. Super lame seriously pioneer.


----------



## morgan18

subwoofery said:


> It really does that?
> 
> Kelvin


Yes for me could be a defective unit, I highly doubt it everything works great.


----------



## Vaglover

Yea and I noticed it doesn't really power up right when I use pandora on my iPhone turn off the car with it connected disconnect my phone and when I come back later and turn it on it'll light up but be off unless I already have my phone plugged in and pandora open. So I have to turn it on manually and cycle to pandora everytime. You think it would just switch to the next input source and power up. But nope.


----------



## _Rom_

Few questions...

I think I have music search off, when I press the search key, I get folders in alphabetical order, can go into each one etc.

When I press search button, it always defaults to an album starting with D. Never the first album.
Any way to have it go to the album folder currently playing? It I'm listening to P. I press search, I have to scroll from D. Rather than from where I currently am (P)

Any way to turn shuffle/random on for current folder, rather than shuffle ALL folders? 

Lastly, I've occasionally managed to skip through folders by letter, rather than scrolling down entire list. So A to B to C, rather than manually scrolling through all of the A, then all B etc. 
How do I do this? Always by accident when driving. 

Thanks. 

Sent From My Galaxy Note With Tapatalk 2


----------



## s4k4zulu

morgan18 said:


> Yes for me could be a defective unit, I highly doubt it everything works great.


Did u ever figure out whether ur unit is defective or all the unit comes like that?
Thanks.


----------



## thomasluke

s4k4zulu said:


> Did u ever figure out whether ur unit is defective or all the unit comes like that?
> Thanks.


All pioneer units do that. From the top to the bottom. I first noticed it when i had my ms-8. I couldnt eject the cd i just had to change sources.


----------



## quality_sound

Pioneers have done that as long as I can remember. Hell, for a long time ALL units did it. I don't know the reasoning though. What is hate more than that is units that swap over to the tuner when you eject a CD because the tuner is almost ALWAYS a crap ton louder.


----------



## morgan18

It just seems stupid the way that works. I just push the src button and then change CDs no more turning on and off. Anyways I'm loving the unit and it will probably stay in my car for a long time.


----------



## Married_Man

Wav files on SSD... I think I've used a CD one time in the several weeks I've had it.


----------



## nismos14

Married_Man said:


> Wav files on SSD... I think I've used a CD one time in the several weeks I've had it.


What SSD setup do you have? I'd like to probably pick one up.


----------



## Sulley

Is an SSD really faster? I'd imagine it would be limited to the USB interface, same as standard hard drives are now?


Sent from my Motorola StarTAC


----------



## Married_Man

nismos14 said:


> What SSD setup do you have? I'd like to probably pick one up.


Here's a repost from the 80prs HD thread:



Married_Man said:


> I had a spare 80GB Intel SSD (mod# SSDSA2M080G2Gc) and decided to test it with the 80prs.
> 
> With ~65GB of wav files (~2100 songs), it works pretty well. It takes a minute or so to index with browser on. I haven't timed it, but we have a long gravel drive and it's usually indexed by the time I get to the end of it. Plenty fast enough for me to keep using it.
> 
> If I test any other SSD drives, I'll let you know.





> Is an SSD really faster? I'd imagine it would be limited to the USB interface, same as standard hard drives are now?


I've not tested the difference between HD and SSD on the 80prs.

Assuming the 80prs is USB 2.0, that's a max throughput of ~35MB/s. With that in mind, a hard drive may give similar performance. If I get the chance to test, I'll post back here.


----------



## rton20s

While it may not be faster due to the limitations of USB 2.0, an SSD will have the added advantage of better shock resistance. Something that could be extremely important in a moving vehicle. So, you have trade offs. Generally, the HDD would give you greater capacity at a much lower price. The SSD would offer the better shock resistance, and potentially faster throughput.


----------



## Married_Man

That's true and was a consideration when I chose it.

Also, you could, depending on the drive, have greatly improved write speed to the drive if your PC is equipped with USB 3.0.

I tested the throughput of a few drives on my PC via USB 2.0 with USBDeview. The SSD was 35MB/s, a 7200 rpm HDD was slightly less around 33-34MB/s and a 5400 rpm HDD was around 30-31MB/s. Assuming the 80prs is similar, there's no huge advantage to SSD when considering read speed on the 80prs.

I couldn't test the SSD on USB 3.0 because my USB 3.0 dock is currently broken, but a USB 3.0 external drive tested at ~84MB/s write speed. A good SSD is typically closer to the 200MB/s range.


----------



## HomicidalTherms

_Rom_ said:


> Lastly, I've occasionally managed to skip through folders by letter, rather than scrolling down entire list. So A to B to C, rather than manually scrolling through all of the A, then all B etc.
> How do I do this? Always by accident when driving.


Hit the Search button again when you're in the folder list. I'm assuming it's the same even with Music Browse turned off.


----------



## Sulley

Seek times on the SSD are a lot better. Not sure if you'll notice with USB 2. 

My 80prs will be here this week. I have a 90gb Corsair Force 3 SSD, a regular samsung spinpoint hard drive and an external 3.0 USB enclosure. I'll have to try it out the weekend.


Sent from my Motorola StarTAC


----------



## Married_Man

Looking forward to the test results.

I'm not sure the fast seek times on the SSDs will come into play with indexing. I would guess that would be more of a sequential read. It may come into play on song selection, but I think that's a non-issue.


----------



## tnbubba

be careful using usb 2.0 devices.. some draw more power( usb3.0 spec) than the prs can deliver??
i dunno... haven't checked the spec..I know some HU put out 1a because of ipods n devices the extra current is used to charge/drive the device. max current on most HU is 0.5A which is usb2.0 spec.
I have a 250G hard drive in vantec usb 2.0 adaptor eclosure.. over 160G of wave files takes about 30 sec to fully index.. now it is a SATA 3.0 drive.. and needs a 3a 12v regulated supply


----------



## frankmehta

Does anyone here know how to set the FM tuner steps??? Mine jumps from 103.9 to 104.1 and from 104.7 to 104.9. Two of my favourite stations (104.0 and 104.8) don't play :-(


----------



## beef316

What country are you in? The steps the unit is using is reflective of the US tuner.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spl152db

beef316 said:


> What country are you in? The steps the unit is using is reflective of the use tuner.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


would appear to be india. 
frankmehta

DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: India
Age: 27
Posts: 258


----------



## frankmehta

iNDIA.. Right.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## spl152db

it can't be changed. you bought a us version of a cd player.


----------



## frankmehta

Quite sad. But then again, the Asian version doesn't come with Bluetooth. So you win some, and you lose some.


----------



## ZAKOH

Here is one thing that I haven't researched yet. Can an independent equalizer curve be applied to left and right side speakers, or is it just one curve for both sides? 

Besides time alignment what changes when you switch the position from left to right, etc?


----------



## spl152db

ZAKOH said:


> Here is one thing that I haven't researched yet. Can an independent equalizer curve be applied to left and right side speakers, or is it just one curve for both sides?
> 
> Besides time alignment what changes when you switch the position from left to right, etc?


the eq is right/left independent

as far as position goes, I wish I could remove that crap. It made it really hard to get time alignment correct. I did set it to left (driver) and finally got it all worked out, but still a pain.


----------



## tnbubba

yea that position crap sucks.... I still haven't figured it out and cant get answer form pioneer.. WTF does front do??? you cant adjust TA in front mode well hell I drive a single cab truck there is no "back" and every time i run the autotune i get different TA settings..
so i just do it old fashioned way measure with laser..lol


----------



## 07azhhr

After you have autotuned when you change position settings the HU flips or adjusts the t/a settings to play for the selected position. BUT unfortuneately it does not swap l/r independent level settings but it does flip the t/a setting for r vs l.


----------



## tnbubba

dang that explains the retarted SS then when you tune for one and switch it..
yep back to ruler and mike method.. another thing that pisses me off is no way to see what the boost/eq cut is.. so if ya gain ur dang amp at max at say 62 out ut and the pioneer boosts sumin 3-6 db then you are going to clip something but not know it till something gets smoked..! no i cheated and put my rta to the aux in and ran a sweep and measured outputs so i could see the eq cure but that is a FN PITA> hey PIONEER u DUMBASSES listening??? and update the firmware and put a 800hz setting or at least 1K on the tweets so us guys using domes or 3" mid/full and lower the x/o point to our mid/bass drivers


----------



## StealthHunter

Why on earth did they have to use that cheesy super cheap looking shiny plastic. It looks like crap.

Where is my brushed aluminium? When is someone going to make something that looks like this again;


----------



## tnbubba

when tapes come back in and usb flash drives and ipods go away..


----------



## Angrywhopper

StealthHunter said:


> Why on earth did they have to use that cheesy super cheap looking shiny plastic. It looks like crap.
> 
> Where is my brushed aluminium? When is someone going to make something that looks like this again;


We can only dream.


----------



## sqnut

07azhhr said:


> After you have autotuned when you change position settings the HU flips or adjusts the t/a settings to play for the selected position. BUT unfortuneately it does not swap l/r independent level settings but it does flip the t/a setting for r vs l.


The p80 is pretty much a clone of the older p800/880. To flip between L&R seating position, you use the position settings for TA. You can save your customized eq settings as option 1&2. You would need to either manually calibrate or auto tune for left and ride side and save as options 1&2.

Now when you have to flip for seating position you would flip the position setting and the eq option.


----------



## 07azhhr

sqnut said:


> The p80 is pretty much a clone of the older p800/880. To flip between L&R seating position, you use the position settings for TA. You can save your customized eq settings as option 1&2. You would need to either manually calibrate or auto tune for left and ride side and save as options 1&2.
> 
> Now when you have to flip for seating position you would flip the position setting and the eq option.


 
Uhhmmm I have the 80prs and was saying how the deck works not asking how it works. But I should state that this is in standard mode but I can't see network mode not doing the same. You have to select the seating postion in the POSITION option in the menu to either left or right in order to activate the auto tune option. Once you have performed an auto tune you can then go back to the POSITION option in the menu and switch between front left or front right and the HU will automatically flip the TA settings in the TA2 option of the menu. I have not looked at what my settings get changed to when choosing front so I do not know if it balances them or what but when switching from l to r th HU will flip them. For example if you have the FL at 50 and the FR at 84.5 while in the Front Left setting then when you switch to front right it will make the FR speaker 50 and the FL speaker 84.5


----------



## Sulley

sqnut said:


> The p80 is pretty much a clone of the older p800/880. To flip between L&R seating position, you use the position settings for TA. You can save your customized eq settings as option 1&2. You would need to either manually calibrate or auto tune for left and ride side and save as options 1&2.
> 
> Now when you have to flip for seating position you would flip the position setting and the eq option.


That's a question I could never get straight answer for... So I can have two different tunes, In 3-way mode? One for driver seat and one for passengers. Both with there own set of T/A values and manually entered L/R EQ values?

My 80PRS just showed up today. It's going to be a little while before I can use it. 


Sent from my Motorola StarTAC


----------



## spl152db

stockley.rod said:


> That's a question I could never get straight answer for... So I can have two different tunes, In 3-way mode? One for driver seat and one for passengers. Both with there own set of T/A values and manually entered L/R EQ values?
> 
> My 80PRS just showed up today. It's going to be a little while before I can use it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Motorola StarTAC


you can setup the TA for left, when you switch to right it swaps those but I do not believe it changes the speaker levels so it won't be perfect. You can save an eq1 and eq2.


----------



## Sulley

spl152db said:


> you can setup the TA for left, when you switch to right it swaps those but I do not believe it changes the speaker levels so it won't be perfect. You can save an eq1 and eq2.


Ahh right. I forgot about the levels stuff. I was reading the manual that one of the EQ's changes with different sources? Not quite sure what's about, I'll have to have another read.

Thanks 


Sent from my Motorola StarTAC


----------



## Brian Steele

Does the 80PRS have the same type of EQ arrangement as the 980BT, e.g.

1. You have access to Auto-EQ, but you can't manually change any of the settings that the Auto-EQ process comes up with
2. You've got two "custom" EQ options, but one is applicable to all inputs and the other is applicable only to the source selected. 
3. There are a number of preset EQ curves offered, but they only make sense if Auto-EQ is performed first. 

I hate that arrangement on my 980BT, for the main reason that the Auto-EQ settings are not manually adjustable after running the Auto-EQ process, and the Auto-EQ isn't accurate enough to be able to rely on its results. The DEQ9200's approach to EQ is much better IMO.


----------



## spl152db

Brian Steele said:


> Does the 80PRS have the same type of EQ arrangement as the 980BT, e.g.
> 
> 1. You have access to Auto-EQ, but you can't manually change any of the settings that the Auto-EQ process comes up with
> 2. You've got two "custom" EQ options, but one is applicable to all inputs and the other is applicable only to the source selected.
> 3. There are a number of preset EQ curves offered, but they only make sense if Auto-EQ is performed first.
> 
> I hate that arrangement on my 980BT, for the main reason that the Auto-EQ settings are not manually adjustable after running the Auto-EQ process, and the Auto-EQ isn't accurate enough to be able to rely on its results. The DEQ9200's approach to EQ is much better IMO.


1. you can set the eq on top of the auto-eq, but you can't "see" what it did. 
2. eq1 and eq2 will apply to everything once selected
3. I didn't buy it for presets so no clue if it has them. I'd say probably yes.


----------



## StealthHunter

Car stereo chick seems to think the 80prs is no good.

Hands on review, the best single din head unit for 2012 | CarStereoChick


----------



## spl152db

StealthHunter said:


> Car stereo chick seems to think the 80prs is no good.
> 
> Hands on review, the best single din head unit for 2012 | CarStereoChick


It's in this thread already. She's uneducated about how the radio is supposed to work. She said it sounds too flat without adjustment. This what we want. So it works great. Her review is terrible. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rton20s

Ha... beat me to it spl152db. Seems to be the typical car audio salesperson type, unfortunately.


----------



## JAX

StealthHunter said:


> Why on earth did they have to use that cheesy super cheap looking shiny plastic. It looks like crap.
> 
> Where is my brushed aluminium? When is someone going to make something that looks like this again;


I must agree I have hated all this glossy black face plates on decks since kenwood started with the 993. 

Even if face was still plastic on the 80 pioneer at least they could have chosen a different look . 

I am fine with my current deck.


----------



## 07azhhr

spl152db said:


> It's in this thread already. She's uneducated about how the radio is supposed to work. She said it sounds too flat without adjustment. This what we want. So it works great. Her review is terrible.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Ya her review seems to be that of which one sounds better to HER right out of the box with minimal adjustments. They all have various tuning abilities and can be made to sound F'd up or made to sound incredible once tuning is applied.


----------



## 07azhhr

JAX said:


> I must agree I have hated all this glossy black face plates on decks since kenwood started with the 993.
> 
> Even if face was still plastic on the 80 pioneer at least they could have chosen a different look .
> 
> I am fine with my current deck.


Ha ha. I was just admiring how my 80prs matches well with my interior. My interior has aluminum/chrome ring accents on all the vents and the interior door handles and the volumn knob and handle bars (for lack of a better word) match this. It also made me chuckle when I then remembered Bing's painting of the volumn knob and handlebars lol. For my car the looks work well. For others I could see it sticking out a tad.


----------



## Bayboy

I drive an old vehicle. The last thing I want is something super expensive looking in my dash. By it looking like a common unit it helps create a bit of stealthiness to it. I think people are asking too much of the unit beyond what it offers at the price most of us here got it for. I'm just happy to finally be able to partake in a very capable headunit without having to pay external DSP prices.


----------



## sqnut

frankmehta said:


> Does anyone here know how to set the FM tuner steps??? Mine jumps from 103.9 to 104.1 and from 104.7 to 104.9. Two of my favourite stations (104.0 and 104.8) don't play :-(


Not sure if you got a reply to your question. Your unit is currently scanning at 200Khz intervals. On the p800/880 you could access a menu once you shut down the unit. This menu let you set things like time, hu's amp on/off etc. One of the choices on the menu was scanning steps. IIRC the options are 50khz and 100khz. 

With 50khz the tuning from 104.7 would be 104.75, 104.8, 104.85....


----------



## Married_Man

Does anyone know how to play media files (wav, mp3, etc) in order of track # instead of song name?

Also, anyone have any experience using playlists with a non-Apple USB device (HD, USB key)?


----------



## t3sn4f2

Married_Man said:


> Does anyone know how to play media files (wav, mp3, etc) in order of track # instead of song name?
> 
> Also, anyone have any experience using playlists with a non-Apple USB device (HD, USB key)?


Maybe renaming the file by "number - song name". That is how they are sold as. I use mp3tag for that.


----------



## spl152db

Married_Man said:


> Does anyone know how to play media files (wav, mp3, etc) in order of track # instead of song name?
> 
> Also, anyone have any experience using playlists with a non-Apple USB device (HD, USB key)?


all i know is when i used my phone via usb and not bt it started playing all the navigation voice commands. wasn't able to navigate the music very easily.


----------



## Married_Man

t3sn4f2 said:


> Maybe renaming the file by "number - song name". That is how they are sold as. I use mp3tag for that.


I have all my song files named this way. It still sorts them by song name.

I'm hoping there's a setting somewhere I missed, but doubtful.


----------



## HomicidalTherms

Married_Man said:


> I have all my song files named this way. It still sorts them by song name.
> 
> I'm hoping there's a setting somewhere I missed, but doubtful.


Do you have Music Browse turned on? If that's on, it doesn't matter what the file name is. It's going to use the name in the tag. If you turn off Music Browse then it may do what you want but you'll lose all the artist/album/genre options.


----------



## Married_Man

Yes, music browse is on. I'll test it with it off, but I'd hate to lose the extra functionality. Thanks


----------



## HomicidalTherms

Married_Man said:


> Yes, music browse is on. I'll test it with it off, but I'd hate to lose the extra functionality. Thanks


No problem. I didn't think about this earlier but you could try using a tag editor and adding the track number to the beginning of the track name in the tag and see if that works. If it does then you wouldn't have to turn off music browse at all.


----------



## Married_Man

Very nice! That should work. Thanks again!


----------



## 07azhhr

sqnut said:


> Not sure if you got a reply to your question. Your unit is currently scanning at 200Khz intervals. On the p800/880 you could access a menu once you shut down the unit. This menu let you set things like time, hu's amp on/off etc. One of the choices on the menu was scanning steps. IIRC the options are 50khz and 100khz.
> 
> With 50khz the tuning from 104.7 would be 104.75, 104.8, 104.85....


 
I checked mine last night and checked all the hidden menus but there is no option for this. I read the manual as well and it lists all the hidden menu options but that is not one of them. I will say that the manual is frustrating at times with the way it is layed out and I could have missed it but as of now I am believing that he is not going to be able to change the tuning steps.


----------



## D-Bass

just a curious question, are all the dsp features of this unit functional when using the internal amp? for example if someone really wanted to go active on a 2way component set using just the internal amplifier, could you use the front channels for midwoofer and the rears for tweeter, or visa versa. or do you only get full dsp/active functions through the rca preouts?


----------



## nismos14

The speaker outputs have in the past functioned as the RCA outs did, I don't see why it would be different on this unit.


----------



## Married_Man

Anyone else notice any randomness to the indexing time? Usually indexing is complete in around 1 minute. But, from time to time, it takes 5+ minutes. Exact same SSD with no changes to the files.


----------



## tnbubba

haven't noticed it on my mech HDD but I did notice it on my flash drives.. not 5 min but sometime sit would take 20-30 sec instead of 5


----------



## Phosphoric

Long time lurker , first post.

I just acquired myself a 80RPS and I think its DOA. Not fully dead but the problem is that i'm getting next to no sound when the DSP switch is set to Network mode. When I have the switch in STD mode everything works perfectly.

While set to Network: I can hear some sound out of my front tweets but its very little, even with the volume cranked way up. All of the menu settings seem normal. I have gone through to make sure nothing is muted/etc.

I have confirmed my wiring which only consists of the usual remote and power and ground. I didn't wire any of the speakers because have 3 pairs of RCAs going to my MRX-v70 , nothing out of the ordinary setup. I confirmed front is front and rear is rear in the STD mode.

Otherwise I have tried flipping the switch a few times. (Also pressing the reset button each time) I tried disconnecting/switching the RCAs. Pretty sure its FUBAR 

I got it from Amazon so I know exchanging it will be no issue I just wanted to check with you guys before I yanked it out and box it up.


----------



## tnbubba

unplug amps inputs check with meter to see what kind of output you getting on the prs in network mode


----------



## rton20s

Also confirm that when you have the switch in network mode that you have your RCAs connected low-low, mid-mid and high-high. The other thing to comfirm is that you have your crossovers working on the head unit only. Turn off your amps' crossovers.


----------



## duro78

Like .mentioned above your rca's most likely aren't setup right for network mode. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Phosphoric

rton20s said:


> Also confirm that when you have the switch in network mode that you have your RCAs connected low-low, mid-mid and high-high. The other thing to comfirm is that you have your crossovers working on the head unit only. Turn off your amps' crossovers.


RCAs are not mixed up , it works perfectly in STD mode. I'm running active , no crossovers enabled at AMP that's why I bought this deck. Why would the RCAs be arranged any other way than Front(mid) , Rear(high) , Sub(low) in Network mode or otherwise? I checked them manual just in case. (btw which is terrible)


----------



## spl152db

did you setup your crossovers on the deck ? turn them off at the amp? front is mids, rear is tweets, and sub is sub.


----------



## Phosphoric

Got the replacement deck , works perfectly. Got to fiddle with it a bit last night and loving it so far


----------



## Married_Man

Married_Man said:


> I've not tested the difference between HD and SSD on the 80prs.
> 
> Assuming the 80prs is USB 2.0, that's a max throughput of ~35MB/s. With that in mind, a hard drive may give similar performance. If I get the chance to test, I'll post back here.



I finally finished ripping all my CDs to wav and outgrew my SSD. So, I switched to a laptop HD. It's a Hitachi Z5K320-320. I didn't get to do a direct comparison with equal files, but the 5400 rpm drive is extremely slow. While it's indexing, it often skips because it can't keep up. Takes 5-10 minutes to index. I just deleted all the miscellaneous album art / info files and it went from ~5200 files down to 3400. I'm hoping that helps some in the indexing, but I doubt I can live with this. 

I believe I have a 7200 rpm laptop drive floating around here somewhere. I'll let you know the results when I get around to moving my files over.


----------



## Phosphoric

Married_Man said:


> I finally finished ripping all my CDs to wav and outgrew my SSD. So, I switched to a laptop HD. It's a Hitachi Z5K320-320. I didn't get to do a direct comparison with equal files, but the 5400 rpm drive is extremely slow. While it's indexing, it often skips because it can't keep up. Takes 5-10 minutes to index. I just deleted all the miscellaneous album art / info files and it went from ~5200 files down to 3400. I'm hoping that helps some in the indexing, but I doubt I can live with this.
> 
> I believe I have a 7200 rpm laptop drive floating around here somewhere. I'll let you know the results when I get around to moving my files over.


Are you using music search or just folder list? I noticed music search is a little bit slower but my tags are pretty jacked though. I go by folders normally. Using 160GB ssd btw.


----------



## Married_Man

That's with music browse turned on. But, I blame it all on a crap drive. It takes 15-30 seconds just to get off the "Format Read" message and start playing music.


----------



## Phosphoric

Married_Man said:


> That's with music browse turned on. But, I blame it all on a crap drive. It takes 15-30 seconds just to get off the "Format Read" message and start playing music.


Probably , sounds like slow drive spin up/seek times. Maybe try defragmenting the drive with O&O or something similar. O&O Defrag 16 – Maximum Performance for your PC you should be able to get by on the demo version.

You can also benchmark the drive with this: http://www.hdbench.net/ja/hdbench/index.html


----------



## Married_Man

Thanks. I may give the benchmark a test run. It's freshly formatted, though. I wouldn't think fragmentation would be an issue.

One more thing I didn't mention is drive noise. I keep the drives (SSD and HD) in the pocket below my radio in the dash kit. It really amplifies the noise of the HD. Nothing major at 55mph, but it's really annoying sitting and listening in the drive way.


----------



## 07azhhr

Phosphoric said:


> Got the replacement deck , works perfectly. Got to fiddle with it a bit last night and loving it so far


Good to hear! I really like mine and am actually installing another 80prs in the girls car. Of course she wants the face to light up pink go figure .


----------



## Phosphoric

Stoked that thing this has so many options for input, i've set up a few SD cards with music and test tracks etc. My folder lists don't sort alphabetical. (I usually sort by directory structure rather than tags) Is there a way to change this or am I going to have to number the folders?

Also when I hit the find button to change tracks it always drops me back to the root of the drive rather than the folder I was in. Anyone else experience this? I guess i'm used to the way my Kenwood worked. (which seemed pretty ideal imo?)


----------



## sqnut

A bit OT, but I'm currently running my setup in active mode w/o the bit10. I had forgotten how good the 800/880 can sound courtesy the dsp. The processor gives better imaging and clarity of sound. But it also gives the power to mess up the tonality while chasing imaging. So every once in a while its good to step back.

The P-80 is basically the older prs series, relaunched. I hope folks are getting the most out of this unit. You can dial in great sound.


----------



## robtr8

My HU has started to make bad noises in channel 2 (right side dash) which then becomes no noise in channel 4 (right side door). A swift slap up the side of the dash brings it back to it's senses. Before condemning the HU I need to check the crappy IXOS leads but, I was wondering if anybody else is having similar troubles.


----------



## IDGAF

I've been wondering this since this thread went up...

Why is it Pioneer's knockout punch to the 117? Wouldn't the 9887 or 9886 be a more fair fight?


----------



## dietDrThunder

robtr8 said:


> My HU has started to make bad noises in channel 2 (right side dash) which then becomes no noise in channel 4 (right side door). A swift slap up the side of the dash brings it back to it's senses. Before condemning the HU I need to check the crappy IXOS leads but, I was wondering if anybody else is having similar troubles.


Mine did that too, then I lost all 4 front channels (only have sub now). I've been way busy with stuff and assumed it was the amp (am bi-amping mids and tweets as front stage). 

Now that I see your post I will test the hu and see what's what.


----------



## Phosphoric

Fwiw - I figured out my folder sorting issue. The head unit reads the FAT folder structure , you need to use a utility to organize things. I used this one and it corrected the folder order to alphabetic. 

Story: FAT Sorter v1.0.4 - Fenux.Net


----------



## robtr8

dietDrThunder said:


> Mine did that too, then I lost all 4 front channels (only have sub now). I've been way busy with stuff and assumed it was the amp (am bi-amping mids and tweets as front stage).
> 
> Now that I see your post I will test the hu and see what's what.


Talked to Pioneer tech support. He asked if the noise/dead channel started up as the weather started to get colder. I said "Now that you mention it". He said it's probably a cold solder joint and go ahead and get another unit.


----------



## JAX

robtr8 said:


> Talked to Pioneer tech support. He asked if the noise/dead channel started up as the weather started to get colder. I said "Now that you mention it". He said it's probably a cold solder joint and go ahead and get another unit.



hmm, already issues with a new unit..I hope that is not a sign of things to come for more people.


----------



## nismos14

JAX said:


> hmm, already issues with a new unit..I hope that is not a sign of things to come for more people.


New or old, most units will have problems shown early on, look at all the DD nav's that have problems immediately. I can't see any reviews for any DD nav's that are spot on perfect, there's always such and such a problem with it. There are 2012 model refurbs already running around all over the place and have been for a while..


----------



## JAX

I dont recall this with the last good Pioneer units or any other single din units.


----------



## nismos14

JAX said:


> hmm, already issues with a new unit..I hope that is not a sign of things to come for more people.


New or old, most units will have problems shown early on, look at all the DD nav's that have problems immediately. I can't see any reviews for any DD nav's that are spot on perfect, there's always such and such a problem with it. There are 2012 model refurbs already running around all over the place and have been for a while..


----------



## JAX

mmm ok....you said that already


----------



## nismos14

JAX said:


> I dont recall this with the last good Pioneer units or any other single din units.


You don't? The DEH-P860MP had motorized face issues, pico issues, etc. The 960's and 940's had the same issues.


----------



## JAX

nismos14 said:


> You don't? The DEH-P860MP had motorized face issues, pico issues, etc. The 960's and 940's had the same issues.


Pico fuse is poor design, motorized face issues I thought were from ribbon wear ...

Is that the same as cold solder problems on decks less than 6 months old ?

860's 940's and 960's etc are still running. 

This doesn't really inspire me to believe these new decks can last very long with daily use. 

They look cheap and may apparently be built cheap. 

Maybe I should ask my tech.


----------



## nismos14

JAX said:


> Pico fuse is poor design, motorized face issues I thought were from ribbon wear ...
> 
> Is that the same as cold solder problems on decks less than 6 months old ?
> 
> 860's 940's and 960's etc are still running.
> 
> This doesn't really inspire me to believe these new decks can last very long with daily use.
> 
> They look cheap and may apparently be built cheap.
> 
> Maybe I should ask my tech.


Good points, but all units typically have some problem, we are more aware of them because of forums, but I bet the vast majority of the 80's don't have too many issues. My buddy has one that functions perfectly regardless of freezing temps, etc.


----------



## spl152db

I haven't had any issues with mine other than pops between tracks on cds only.


----------



## JAX

nismos14 said:


> Good points, but all units typically have some problem, we are more aware of them because of forums, but I bet the vast majority of the 80's don't have too many issues. My buddy has one that functions perfectly regardless of freezing temps, etc.


I am not saying its going to be an issue widespread like the pico but to hear that solder is giving up already just reminds me of what my tech told me about these new amps these days. 


I don't exactly recall word for word but something along the lines of "I have to resolder the boards because of the crap solder they use that is not meant to hold up"

Now this was a amp but it might be a trend in other areas. 

We all know most of this mass produced stuff isn't made to last like it once was. 

The solder thing just was odd. It's early though still


----------



## spl152db

There is a possibility they got a bad batch of solder and a few joints didn't get a good soldering. its all computer driven so if there was a gap or air or not enough flux or whatever its all possible that it didn't get done completely. They should be spot checked and qc'd before leaving, but there isn't a way to qc every environment and the amount of vibrations from a car in said conditions in a reasonable manner for each unit.


----------



## tnbubba

its called..EURO CRAP LEAD FREE ie ROHS......
total **** and all the electronic industry is still fighting it..

the failure rate for electronics is at an all time HIGH.. since SMD came about..
it's all due to the damn lead missing form solder and manufactures fighting with the process....


----------



## t3sn4f2

General function question. The new 2013 top model head unit from pioneer has a voice command function that uses the smart phones own voice function to control certain functions (ie Siri on iDevices). You press the volume dial and it enables that function. 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X9500BHS 

"USB DIRECT CONTROL FOR iPOD/iPHONEConnect an iPod or iPhone to the DEH-X9500BHS using the optional USB interface cable (CD-IU51 interface cable sold separately) enjoy the music stored on your device. Song, artist, time and album information are displayed on the LCD display. The Link Play feature helps you find content faster and the system's wired USB connection provides direct digital signal transfer from the device for clean, clear sound while providing 1 amp of current to keep your iPod/iPhone charged.

*As an added bonus, DEH-X9500BHS is able to utilize the voice control feature found on your iPhone. With an iPhone connected to the receiver via Bluetooth and the receiver source set to "Bluetooth audio" or "iPod," simply press the volume knob, wait for the prompt, and speak your command as you would on your iPhone.*"


Does the 80PRS have that same function or something similar?

And if so, is that a steering wheel button that also engages it?


----------



## JAX

what's the difference in the 80prs and the 9400/9500 other than eq options, voltage and 3 way active?

is the knob black or silver?

the 9400bh I put in sounds ok but I am having to get used to the tinker toy face. I was looking at the 80 and the models below and it looks same minus a couple things.


----------



## rton20s

The DEH-80PRS has the unique tuning / audio features when compared to the rest of the Pioneer line-up. The DEH-P9400BH (DEH-X9500BHS, current model) is the "top of the line" non-SQ focused unit. It has more compatibility/source features. Your best bet for comparison is using a comparison tool from Pioneer, Crutchfield, Sonic Electronix and the like. 

CD Receivers | Pioneer Electronics USA
Compare: Car Receivers at Crutchfield.com
=43523&product_id[]=63988&product_id[]=42779]Sonic Electronix - Compare Products


----------



## fhlh002

lurker but I wanna start joining the discussions.

I just replaced a DNX6140 that was running all stock speakers/amps (shaker500) in my 09 Mustang as I've got an itch to finally put a decent stereo in here.

I love the deck, noticeable improvement over the DNX it replaces. I really want to do an Active with it, so I'll be upgrading the front speakers soon. I will say this, If this unit had the cross-over points that the Clarion 702 has... it'd be perfect. Question? can something like this (adding more useful x-over points) be firmware updated????

Anyway... glad to be here, it was this site that lead me to the 80prs.


----------



## robtr8

Happy to report that I'm 99% sure it was the crappy IXOS interconnects causing my noise/music drop out. Replaced them with some Monster 302's with the death grip RCA's. Now I have to go drive around.


----------



## JAX

robtr8 said:


> Happy to report that I'm 99% sure it was the crappy IXOS interconnects causing my noise/music drop out. Replaced them with some Monster 302's with the death grip RCA's. Now I have to go drive around.


You got that right. Bitches ripped out some RCA jacks


----------



## aznbo187

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to run 3-way active (tweet, mid-range, mid-bass) with this headunit given the following configuration: 4-channel amp powering the mid-bass/mid-range and tweeter being powered by the headunit? 

I have not yet played with this unit and wanted to know if this is possible. It would save me from having to buy a second amp, or finding a 6-channel amp when I don't have to.


----------



## aznbo187

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to run 3-way active (tweet, mid-range, mid-bass) with this headunit given the following configuration: 4-channel amp powering the mid-bass/mid-range and tweeter being powered by the headunit? 

I have not yet played with this unit and wanted to know if this is possible. It would save me from having to buy a second amp, or finding a 6-channel amp when I don't have to.


----------



## thomasluke

aznbo187 said:


> Can anyone tell me if it's possible to run 3-way active (tweet, mid-range, mid-bass) with this headunit given the following configuration: 4-channel amp powering the mid-bass/mid-range and tweeter being powered by the headunit?
> 
> I have not yet played with this unit and wanted to know if this is possible. It would save me from having to buy a second amp, or finding a 6-channel amp when I don't have to.


Yes, completely possible. I ran a two way with the mids bridged off of a 4 channel and the tweets being ran by the hu.
It just sounded better. The hu actually does a pretty good job of it too.


----------



## Mic10is

robtr8 said:


> Happy to report that I'm 99% sure it was the crappy IXOS interconnects causing my noise/music drop out. Replaced them with some Monster 302's with the death grip RCA's. Now I have to go drive around.


which Ixos rcas were you using?


----------



## robtr8

Mic10is said:


> which Ixos rcas were you using?


Not sure which model they were, translucent blue jacket with a woven conductor. I bought an amp kit from my distributor and was pretty quickly disappointed by the quality of the kit. Fuse cover wont stay on the fuse block, RCA's grip kinda weak. It was a great deal because IXOS (in the US) was closing up and my distributor was blowing out the product.


----------



## fhlh002

after living with the 80PRS for a month, I think I'm done... the limited x-over options for the high and mid HP just piss me off too much.


----------



## Bayboy

Depending on what you are trying to do & where your drivers are located there are some workarounds although not optimal like a full on processor.


----------



## fhlh002

Oh don't get me wrong. it's great head unit, but it's not the setup I'm looking for in my Mustang.

What I really want to do is a 3" 'Full Range' Tang-Bang (or equivalent) crossed at 300-400hz and up and a RS225 in the 8" spot passband at 63 to 300-400hz. Really, is that too much to ask?
I guess I could give the RS225 with RS28 a try... But in the end, I'll most likely move the 80PRS to the truck and do something else in the car.


----------



## Bayboy

fhlh002 said:


> Oh don't get me wrong. it's great head unit, but it's not the setup I'm looking for in my Mustang.
> 
> What I really want to do is a 3" 'Full Range' Tang-Bang (or equivalent) crossed at 300-400hz and up and a RS225 in the 8" spot passband at 63 to 300-400hz. Really, is that too much to ask?
> I guess I could give the RS225 with RS28 a try... But in the end, I'll most likely move the 80PRS to the truck and do something else in the car.




Actually it's very simple although overlooked by many due to wanting variable slopes (which isn't that much of a problem). I haven't read my manual in a while so if I missed something somewhere please do correct me. 

The only difference I see between standard vs network mode is the xover settings, correct? If you are simply trying to do a midbass/widebander front stage, why not use an outboard xover while the unit is in standard mode. The biggest con is loss of variable slopes (depending on the unit you choose to use), but the big pro is infinite xover points, plus you still get to keep T/A, L/R EQ, Phase (which is redundant since it's either normal/reverse). Even if you lost phase, a simple reverse of the wire polarity is equal. 


The big advantage is cost when compared to something that will do similar with the included features.


----------



## fhlh002

Bayboy said:


> Actually it's very simple although overlooked by many due to wanting variable slopes (which isn't that much of a problem). I haven't read my manual in a while so if I missed something somewhere please do correct me.
> 
> The only difference I see between standard vs network mode is the xover settings, correct? If you are simply trying to do a midbass/widebander front stage, why not use an outboard xover while the unit is in standard mode. The biggest con is loss of variable slopes (depending on the unit you choose to use), but the big pro is infinite xover points, plus you still get to keep T/A, L/R EQ, Phase (which is redundant since it's either normal/reverse). Even if you lost phase, a simple reverse of the wire polarity is equal.
> 
> 
> The big advantage is cost when compared to something that will do similar with the included features.



Thanks for the info.
I am going to give this a try as I thought I would lose T/A if I ran my midbass on the 'rear' channel in normal mode.
I guess what irks me is to think a simple 'firmware' update would give us more x-over points in 'network' mode.


----------



## Bayboy

fhlh002 said:


> Thanks for the info.
> I am going to give this a try as I thought I would lose T/A if I ran my midbass on the 'rear' channel in normal mode.
> I guess what irks me is to think a simple 'firmware' update would give us more x-over points in 'network' mode.




You would think a simple firmware would be the fix, but I'm no specialist in that arena although I do believe the unit is capable of updates. Again I haven't read the manual in a while. 

Also before if you haven't mentioned or thought about it, it's actually very easy and cost effective if you have the necessary xover points already included in the amplifier you are using. Then it's just a matter of changing the switch on the unit. No wires or cables have to be touched. All you would need is the low pass from the rear on the amp coupled with the rear high pass on the 80prs... bandpass. Use the high pass on the 80prs fronts or amp and it's done. I also believe there is a slight advantage or change to the sub's xover in standard mode that is not available in network.... again I can't remember. :laugh: Sorry!


----------



## 07azhhr

fhlh002 said:


> Thanks for the info.
> I am going to give this a try as I thought I would lose T/A if I ran my midbass on the 'rear' channel in normal mode.
> I guess what irks me is to think a simple 'firmware' update would give us more x-over points in 'network' mode.


Like Bay said give standard mode a shot. Use the front rca (same set as the mid in network mode) for the widebander. Might have to use the amp's x-over as I think it can only go up to 250hz in standard mode. Then run the 8's of the rear out (same as the HI outs in network mode) using the HU x-over for the HP and the amp x-over for low pass. The sub will run off the same set of outputs and the HU goes as high as 250 so you should not have an issue there. 

The LOW vs SUB x-over slope differences are strange. In std mode the slope offers 6-18 db choices while the ntwk mode offers 12-36 db choices. I don't get the lack of 0 or 6(ntwk) in these options.

But give this a try and you may find yourself happier. The TA works either mode and so does the eq and level matching.


----------



## Bayboy

07azhhr said:


> Like Bay said give standard mode a shot. Use the front rca (same set as the mid in network mode) for the widebander. Might have to use the amp's x-over as I think it can only go up to 250hz in standard mode. Then run the 8's of the rear out (same as the HI outs in network mode) using the HU x-over for the HP and the amp x-over for low pass. The sub will run off the same set of outputs and the HU goes as high as 250 so you should not have an issue there.
> 
> The LOW vs SUB x-over slope differences are strange. In std mode the slope offers 6-18 db choices while the ntwk mode offers 12-36 db choices. I don't get the lack of 0 or 6(ntwk) in these options.
> 
> But give this a try and you may find yourself happier. The TA works either mode and so does the eq and level matching.




Thanks for the corrections... I knew I would probably miss out something from the hell of a nightmare manual. :laugh:

But yes, this will work very easily and more conveniently than most realize. The worse part is most preach that you should not be constantly changing your crossover once you have it dialed in, so losing that function in the headunit should not matter one bit! You have everything to gain here especially when considering the majority of amps have a much more variable xover frequency range in when it comes to using a wideband driver. Not steep enough, then cross a little higher or lower.


----------



## fhlh002

Thanks for the guidance. My amp is a JLAudio XD600/6 with full, HP or LP 50 to 500hz.
So I should be able to get this worked out!

Guess that means I'll need a second 80PRS for the truck (simple 2way+sub) since it is a great sounding deck.


----------



## 07azhhr

fhlh002 said:


> Thanks for the guidance. My amp is a JLAudio XD600/6 with full, HP or LP 50 to 500hz.
> So I should be able to get this worked out!
> 
> Guess that means I'll need a second 80PRS for the truck (simple 2way+sub) since it is a great sounding deck.


I know I now have one in each car. I am cheating a bit in my car as I have a 3 way front + sub with all 7 channels having their own t/a and fully active amp channels.


----------



## MTXAUDIO2012

So what is the switches for under the deh80prs? all im going to be using are the subwoofer rca's.. so the switch should be set to low pass instead of high?


----------



## thomasluke

MTXAUDIO2012 said:


> So what is the switches for under the deh80prs? all im going to be using are the subwoofer rca's.. so the switch should be set to low pass instead of high?


DUDE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD READ THE MANUAL. STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND READ THE MANUAL.


----------



## MTXAUDIO2012

thomasluke said:


> DUDE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD READ THE MANUAL. STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND READ THE MANUAL.


I did read it. Why u think I'm asking? Doesn't say much


----------



## thomasluke

MTXAUDIO2012 said:


> I did read it. Why u think I'm asking? Doesn't say much


Not the install manual. There is an actual operation manual that is on a cd.


----------



## 1fishman

MTXAUDIO2012 said:


> I did read it. Why u think I'm asking? Doesn't say much


I'm with you, it is a little hard to figure that out. i think it is to switch between (front, rear and sub) RCA's and (Highs, Mids & sub) at least i hope so


----------



## thomasluke

1fishman said:


> I'm with you, it is a little hard to figure that out. i think it is to switch between (front, rear and sub) RCA's and (Highs, Mids & sub) at least i hope so


It switches between normal and network mode. If all he wants to do is run some coaxes off of the deck and a sub or two then normal is the mode to do it in.


----------



## 07azhhr

There are two switches on the bottom. One at the back of the HU is for the "optional input" and switches between hi level and low level. If you are leeing "low" next to this switch then this is not a switch for what you think it is for. This one is for the rca's above it that are inputs.

The other switch found under the sleeve is the "standard/network switch". 

Which switch are you refering to MTX? But like Thomas said use the standard mode for your setup.


----------



## Phosphoric

thomasluke said:


> Not the install manual. There is an actual operation manual that is on a cd.


Its on the install guide


----------



## TheNextEpisode

Zero confirmation for the pico fuse, correct? 

My now ex-buddy hot swapped the RCAs on my 80prs the other day and I've had significant alternator whine since. I looked at the circuit boards for around an hour but saw nothing resembling a pico fuse. I put the unit back together and added a ground wire between the chassis and the RCA cables, which significantly reduced the whine, but it is still definitely there. 

I'll take it apart again later today and take pictures of the disassembly process and circuit boards. It's quite straight forward.


----------



## ou812

TheNextEpisode said:


> Zero confirmation for the pico fuse, correct?
> 
> My now ex-buddy hot swapped the RCAs on my 80prs the other day and I've had significant alternator whine since. I looked at the circuit boards for around an hour but saw nothing resembling a pico fuse. I put the unit back together and added a ground wire between the chassis and the RCA cables, which significantly reduced the whine, but it is still definitely there.
> 
> I'll take it apart again later today and take pictures of the disassembly process and circuit boards. It's quite straight forward.


I would have punched him in the throat.


----------



## tnbubba

i would have cut his balls off with a dull butterknife!


----------



## ou812

tnbubba said:


> i would have cut his balls off with a dull butterknife!


lol....Like your sig too.:surprised:


----------



## Danometal

This pico fuse thing makes me wanna stick with Alpine.


----------



## ou812

Danometal said:


> This pico fuse thing makes me wanna stick with Alpine.


It is a non issue unless you let your retarted freind hotswap your rca's. In that case a good swift kick to the nutsack makes everything good again.


----------



## rton20s

And make sure you have the same friend return the favor. You both deserve a kick, him for doing, yourself for allowing him to do it.


----------



## Danometal

ou812 said:


> It is a non issue unless you let your retarted freind hotswap your rca's. In that case a good swift kick to the nutsack makes everything good again.


While the retarded friend is rolling around holding his nuts, you'll be listening to alternator whine.


----------



## ChrisB

TheNextEpisode said:


> Zero confirmation for the pico fuse, correct?
> 
> My now ex-buddy hot swapped the RCAs on my 80prs the other day and I've had significant alternator whine since. I looked at the circuit boards for around an hour but saw nothing resembling a pico fuse. I put the unit back together and added a ground wire between the chassis and the RCA cables, which significantly reduced the whine, but it is still definitely there.
> 
> I'll take it apart again later today and take pictures of the disassembly process and circuit boards. It's quite straight forward.


I believe Pioneer replaced the pico fuse with a capacitor in the DEH-80PRS. Sadly, hot swapping the RCAs still has a detrimental impact on the capacitor even though it was alleged to be a little more resilient than the p fuse.


----------



## IDGAF

I'm calling it. I gave this damn HU plenty of time. I've had noise since day one of RCA install and I can't take it anymore. My install is textbook. But beyond that... I've tried every trick in the book and the noise is still there. The best I can do is lessen it.

I'm over it.


----------



## ChrisB

IDGAF said:


> I'm calling it. I gave this damn HU plenty of time. I've had noise since day one of RCA install and I can't take it anymore. My install is textbook. But beyond that... I've tried every trick in the book and the noise is still there. The best I can do is lessen it.
> 
> I'm over it.


My bluetooth is utterly useless and noise ridden. The microphone picks up a weird cyclic hum and the HU makes weird noise when my iPhone is paired up to it. After disabling the bluetooth, all was well but it kind of defeats one of the purposes of having this HU.

As soon as I find something worthy of switching to, I probably will. Sadly, I believe it will take a different HU and an external processor to get the features I desire. While I am at it, I'd also have to replace amplifiers or run wires all over the car. Maybe 2013 is the year I will learn to accept my system as-is, despite its flaws, and move on to a hobby that gives me more enjoyment.


----------



## IDGAF

ChrisB said:


> My bluetooth is utterly useless and noise ridden. The microphone picks up a weird cyclic hum and the HU makes weird noise when my iPhone is paired up to it. After disabling the bluetooth, all was well but it kind of defeats one of the purposes of having this HU.
> 
> As soon as I find something worthy of switching to, I probably will. Sadly, I believe it will take a different HU and an external processor to get the features I desire. While I am at it, I'd also have to replace amplifiers or run wires all over the car. Maybe 2013 is the year I will learn to accept my system as-is, despite its flaws, and move on to a hobby that gives me more enjoyment.


Right there with you, bro. I'm actually considering going back to the OEM + DSP but I heard the EQ'ing of the stock WRX HU makes that hopeless. can you shed some light on that?

What are the other options? I kinda want to run Intro SQ this year and I can't have an external processor. What's my next non-Pioneer bet, you reckon?


----------



## ChrisB

IDGAF said:


> Right there with you, bro. I'm actually considering going back to the OEM + DSP but I heard the EQ'ing of the stock WRX HU makes that hopeless. can you shed some light on that?
> 
> What are the other options? I kinda want to run Intro SQ this year and I can't have an external processor. What's my next non-Pioneer bet, you reckon?


The stock HU has some weird Equalization on the radio channels that can't be corrected with an external processor. Sadly, the bluetooth on my WRX stock HU was leaps and bounds ahead of the Pioneer with regards to being noise free both on calls and on the streaming.

If you don't listen to the radio, the aux and cd outputs can be corrected with a processor. If you listen to AM or FM, all bets are off due to the built-in equalization.


----------



## IDGAF

ChrisB said:


> The stock HU has some weird Equalization on the radio channels that can't be corrected with an external processor. Sadly, the bluetooth on my WRX stock HU was leaps and bounds ahead of the Pioneer with regards to being noise free both on calls and on the streaming.
> 
> If you don't listen to the radio, the aux and cd outputs can be corrected with a processor. If you listen to AM or FM, all bets are off due to the built-in equalization.


I honestly almost NEVER listen to the radio. Pandora or iPod/iPhone is 90% of my listening. And even when I do listen to FM, I accept the fact that it's crap anyway.

I heard that the EQ is volume dependant? Does this hold true for aux and cd also? I am looking at the Zapco dsp-z8 and it hints at having "voltage sensing" EQ that accounts for OEM equalization. Is this what you mean by correcting it or do you mean EQ'ing it out manually?


----------



## ChrisB

IDGAF said:


> I honestly almost NEVER listen to the radio. Pandora or iPod/iPhone is 90% of my listening. And even when I do listen to FM, I accept the fact that it's crap anyway.
> 
> I heard that the EQ is volume dependant? Does this hold true for aux and cd also? I am looking at the Zapco dsp-z8 and it hints at having "voltage sensing" EQ that accounts for OEM equalization. Is this what you mean by correcting it or do you mean EQ'ing it out manually?


Most high end processors come with a CD that does the volume dependent equalization compensation/correction to flatten out the stock HU signal. Since the CD and Aux seem to share the output on the stock HU, this gets corrected accordingly. On Club WRX, several individuals swear by the stock HU with a MS-8, except for the radio outputs. 

My only problem is that I was never a fan of the auto-tune process on the MS-8, therefore I ruled it out. The auto-tune usually requires a lot of after the fact equalization to get the system to sound the way I want it to, so it defeats the purpose of having the MS-8 to begin with.


----------



## IDGAF

ChrisB said:


> Most high end processors come with a CD that does the volume dependent equalization compensation/correction to flatten out the stock HU signal. Since the CD and Aux seem to share the output on the stock HU, this gets corrected accordingly. On Club WRX, several individuals swear by the stock HU with a MS-8, except for the radio outputs.
> 
> My only problem is that I was never a fan of the auto-tune process on the MS-8, therefore I ruled it out. The auto-tune usually requires a lot of after the fact equalization to get the system to sound the way I want it to, so it defeats the purpose of having the MS-8 to begin with.


Duly noted. OEM + DSP is looking better and better then.


----------



## Danometal

IDGAF said:


> Duly noted. OEM + DSP is looking better and better then.


Maybe you and Chris B would consider the Clarion CZ702, especially for the price? I plan to grab one for my beater truck.


----------



## 2010hummerguy

No noise issues here, one of the lowest noise floors I have ever experienced. We had BT and iPhone audio both running for our bonfire party last night and it was crystal clear. Bummer that other people are having issues, this is definitely my favorite deck. Just wish I could hook up my XM module, oh well...


----------



## IDGAF

Ok, I'm going to give the Pioneer one last shot. I'm going to use speaker level output. Do I still get all of my control in network mode using the internal amp?


----------



## thomasluke

IDGAF said:


> Ok, I'm going to give the Pioneer one last shot. I'm going to use speaker level output. Do I still get all of my control in network mode using the internal amp?


Yes, All crossovers, EQ and T/A work when using the speaker levels.
I have to send mine to a repair center to get the wine out.
For no reason it just started on my way home today.
A small pop then burrrrrrrr. Called Crutchfeild and they were help full......I guess.


----------



## spyders03

Come to think of it, when I first installed this deck I also put in a new (used) JL e4300 amp, and I did get alt whine from it. I tried grounding the rcas, the deck, etc etc, and only an inline rca noise filter fixed it. Would that point to a noise in the HU or in the Amp? Just curious, if it is the HU, I will send it back to Pioneer to get fixed.


----------



## thomasluke

spyders03 said:


> Wow, that's crazy that people are having problems, I love mine, and has never given me any problems.


Mine just came out of nowhere this afternoon on the way home from work.


----------



## JVD240

Anyone else really disappointed with the build quality? It has TONS of features for the price... but I cringe every time I change a track and hear the faceplate creak. I couldn't take it so I had to step up.


----------



## thomasluke

JVD240 said:


> Anyone else really disappointed with the build quality? It has TONS of features for the price... but I cringe every time I change a track and hear the faceplate creak. I couldn't take it so I had to step up.


The quality really isnt that bad. It just has a few issues that seem to be a minority.
They are alot of people using this deck and very few with any problems.
Sucks that i'm one of them now but it is under warranty and will be repaired for free.
Considering what all this deck does there is nothing can compare right now.
Sure the clarion deck is good too but i think the quality is shadier with that unit and it's kinda noisy as well.


----------



## fhlh002

no noise issues here...
I just despise the limited x-over points in 'network' mode and the limited cut-off points in 'normal' mode. 
It's a great unit for active, if you want to run a TRADITIONAL 1" tweeter, 5 or 6 inch mid... but in my case (S197 Mustang) the 6.75" I have in the lower door panel was trying poorly to run up to 2000k just pulls the vocals DOWN.

Sooo....
I'm currently in 'normal' mode. 
Front Channel HP [email protected] on a set of Morel Tempo 4's
Rear Channel HP at 80hz and set the xover on my JLAudio xd600/6 LP at [email protected] on a set of 6.75" Pioneer mids. 
The unit then sends [email protected] to a pair very old Bazooka DVC 10's.

Now, don't get me wrong, it sounds good to me. However, when using AutoTA, it dismisses the rear speakers (since they sit in the lower front doors actually). It simply stores no settings for rear. So I'm not sure what to do here... manual TA perhaps...

Dunno... guess my beef with the unit is it just becomes a fancy DIN deck with a bunch of media options when in NORMAL mode.... and it's x-over point limited (IMHO) in NETWORK mode. I'll probably pull it and replace the old Kenwood in my Cummins.
Not sure what I'll get, probably the JVC r900bt mainly cause it's Double Din, (edit: and gets solid reviews from some folks that run it here on DIYMA) and I'm still not fond of the single DIN in my Mustang Dash.


----------



## SoulMan76

JVD240 said:


> Anyone else really disappointed with the build quality? It has TONS of features for the price... but I cringe every time I change a track and hear the faceplate creak. I couldn't take it so I had to step up.


Yeah the plasticy feel sucks, feels like it might break when I'm changing tracks or settings, so I try to use the remote or the steering wheel controls so I don't wear them out. Otherwise I think its a great SQ HU though, and the guts of the unit really shine in this price range. I've owned alot of Pioneer HU's over the last 20 years and this is by far my favorite (this is my first active setup). 

The great thing is I didn't have to give up many features by going SQ/active. It has bluetooth that works great with my setup, it has the 2 usbs, the sdcard slot which alot of HU don't even come with, I was able to keep my steering wheel controls with the plug in the back, has the 3.5mm aux input, custom color display..etc. Overall it has just about everything I wanted in a new HU, so for me it has been worth every penny.


Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## The Performer

Any word on if the high pass can be taken below 1.2k ? Seems to be the main piss off im having with this unit.

Almost impossible to do a decent 4 way setup.


----------



## fhlh002

The Performer said:


> Any word on if the high pass can be taken below 1.2k ? Seems to be the main piss off im having with this unit.
> 
> Almost impossible to do a decent 4 way setup.


Nope. It can't


----------



## thomasluke

The Performer said:


> Any word on if the high pass can be taken below 1.2k ? Seems to be the main piss off im having with this unit.
> 
> Almost impossible to do a decent 4 way setup.


Nope. Your stuck.


----------



## 07azhhr

fhlh002 said:


> no noise issues here...
> I just despise the limited x-over points in 'network' mode and the limited cut-off points in 'normal' mode. True here. It is a little limiting.
> 
> It's a great unit for active, if you want to run a TRADITIONAL 1" tweeter, 5 or 6 inch mid... but in my case (S197 Mustang) the 6.75" I have in the lower door panel was trying poorly to run up to 2000k just pulls the vocals DOWN. This is fully the speakers fault and is not at all the fault of the HU. Heck it also has nothing to do with the car. That is the same spot both of my cars midbasses are in without that issue with the right speakers.
> 
> Now, don't get me wrong, it sounds good to me. However, when using AutoTA, it dismisses the rear speakers (since they sit in the lower front doors actually). It simply stores no settings for rear. So I'm not sure what to do here... manual TA perhaps... This sounds like your rca's are not connected to the rear out channel in the back of the HU. You will always get a number if the HU can hear sound out of the speaker that is being fed a signal thru that particular rca out even if the numbers end up the same as another rca out. Check your rca's here.
> 
> Dunno... guess my beef with the unit is it just becomes a fancy DIN deck with a bunch of media options when in NORMAL mode.... and it's x-over point limited (IMHO) in NETWORK mode. The is a very valid point. I actually switched to amps that have built in TA just to have the 2 more TA spots that I needed for my 3 way front. I have a second 80prs in my girls car running a traditional 2 way + sub and it is great for that.
Click to expand...


----------



## The Performer

thomasluke said:


> Nope. Your stuck.


Kinda figured. Worth a shot, figured maybe some genius might have modded some firmware or something by now.


----------



## tnbubba

yea i've bitched about that oo

wtf cant pioneer release a firmware update to lower that 1.2 point to say at least 800 or 800 and maybe 250-300 point?? 

come on you dipshits at pioneer!! listen up!!!
not like they make a dsp processor they are gonna take sales from!


----------



## nismos14

Lol do all you idiots complain to the other manufacturers too?


----------



## ChrisB

nismos14 said:


> Lol do all you idiots complain to the other manufacturers too?


First I complain, then I talk with my money as I choose another product. As soon as the budget and time are there, my DEH-80PRS is as good as gone! Hopefully CES 2013 will bring about a product worthy of my consideration. If not, the replacement will more than likely be source unit and processor.

Why can't aftermarket manufacturers make a double DIN source unit that is as fast as an iPad? You'd swear they are still milking 5 year old technology.


----------



## nucci

ChrisB said:


> First I complain, then I talk with my money as I choose another product. As soon as the budget and time are there, my DEH-80PRS is as good as gone! Hopefully CES 2013 will bring about a product worthy of my consideration.


Big +1 here. I want that elusive 3-way active, separate L/R parametric EQ, deck with 24dB network crossovers including 1000Hz between mid-tweet/horn and 400Hz between midbass-mid. (And I can't pay P99 pricing for one)

Matt


----------



## JVD240

nucci said:


> Big +1 here. I want that elusive 3-way active, separate L/R parametric EQ, deck with 24dB network crossovers including 1000Hz between mid-tweet/horn and 400Hz between midbass-mid. (And I can't pay P99 pricing for one)
> 
> Matt


DRZ? Hahah.


----------



## nismos14

Well they make it, you want it, it's there just have to pony up or understand and use the rest of these decks within their capabilities.


----------



## jpdnkstr

Just picked up 80prs, 4 x polk mm571's, all running in standard mode with 2 x memphis M3 12's in a 2001 explorer. All power compliments of The Big Belle MC1300D! 4 gauge power and ground, streetwires ZN5 interconnects. I'm very impressed with this deck so far, waiting for the polks to break in!

Any input on this setup or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am not new to car audio, just this forum, but I definitely have a lot to learn about tuning.


----------



## ZAKOH

spyders03 said:


> Come to think of it, when I first installed this deck I also put in a new (used) JL e4300 amp, and I did get alt whine from it. I tried grounding the rcas, the deck, etc etc, and only an inline rca noise filter fixed it. Would that point to a noise in the HU or in the Amp? Just curious, if it is the HU, I will send it back to Pioneer to get fixed.


I have been also having some alternator whine issues. First I had two amplifiers connected, MB Quart REF4.80 and PPI P900.4 with no problems at all. Then I swapped PPI P900.4 for a P1000.1, and immediately I started having alternator whine coming from speakers powered by MB Quart. I did a lot of stuff to fix this issue. The only thing that worked was grounding all RCAs to the head unit chassis (see HERE and HERE)

Any ideas if this is a head unit issue or perhaps some issue with amplifiers?


----------



## ZAKOH

fhlh002 said:


> Now, don't get me wrong, it sounds good to me. However, when using AutoTA, it dismisses the rear speakers (since they sit in the lower front doors actually). It simply stores no settings for rear. So I'm not sure what to do here... manual TA perhaps...


Indeed, it's a disappointment that Alpine either intentionally or unintentionally made it impossible to use this head unit with a 2-way front with two wideband mids and a mid-bass in "network" mode. The strange setup you have right now by the means of "standard" mode seems like a normal workaround in your circumstance. It's still a good head unit to use in such a situation, as you get a relatively capable equalizer with many bands, right and left, and time alignment. Granted, since you can't use AutoEQ, you could have achieved the same results by the means of a cheaper head unit, Clarion CZ702.

As far as tuning this manually, tuning TA by ear is very simple (I got a lot of practice with this when I was using a Kenwood Excelon head unit). However, to take a full advantage of this head unit, you really need to tune the EQ and levels. I did some listening with "Manual TA" vs "Manual TA + AutoEQ" and the sound with AutoEQ is much much better, specially in the highs and midrange region. Imaging is very good too with Auto EQ. However, tuning 16 bands of left and right EQ as well as level matching the speakers is much harder by ear. To do this effectively, you need an RTA setup. 



> Dunno... guess my beef with the unit is it just becomes a fancy DIN deck with a bunch of media options when in NORMAL mode....


To some people this could be a good thing. People spend twice as much money as the price of this deck on an external sound processor with no automatic tuning, and then tune manually, and they actually prefer doing this to using AutoEQ. To each his own I guess. Personally, I'd recommend you to get hold of a good set of more traditional 2-way speakers, and give this head unit a chance. As I mentioned, it really does clear up the frequency response and imaging. This is not something that you can accomplish only by the means of time alignment. By the way, my front speakers use a 6.3KHz crossover frequency between tweeter and woofers, and in no way this pulls the sound down, with or without AutoEQ.


----------



## ZAKOH

jpdnkstr said:


> Just picked up 80prs, 4 x polk mm571's, all running in standard mode with 2 x memphis M3 12's in a 2001 explorer. All power compliments of The Big Belle MC1300D! 4 gauge power and ground, streetwires ZN5 interconnects. I'm very impressed with this deck so far, waiting for the polks to break in!
> 
> Any input on this setup or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am not new to car audio, just this forum, but I definitely have a lot to learn about tuning.


Have you run AutoEQ already?

Well, the standard recommendation is to get a hold of a good set of component speakers, wire everything for 2-way active front stage setup+subwoofer (network mode), run AutoEQ and then adjust manually from there. Most people get very good improvement with this right of the bat. You do need to give up the rear speakers for this.


----------



## jpdnkstr

ZAKOH said:


> Have you run AutoEQ already?yes
> 
> Well, the standard recommendation is to get a hold of a good set of component speakers, wire everything for 2-way active front stage setup+subwoofer (network mode), run AutoEQ and then adjust manually from there. Most people get very good improvement with this right of the bat. You do need to give up the rear speakers for this.


my mm571 are coax, but have an outboard crossover, therefore bi-ampable(is that a word?) But I figured polk knew what they were doing, so I'm running STD mode, utilizing high pass(and sub) crossover only.


----------



## ZAKOH

jpdnkstr said:


> my mm571 are coax, but have an outboard crossover, therefore bi-ampable(is that a word?) But I figured polk knew what they were doing, so I'm running STD mode, utilizing high pass(and sub) crossover only.



I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.


----------



## fhlh002

07azhhr said:


> This sounds like your rca's are not connected to the rear out channel in the back of the HU. You will always get a number if the HU can hear sound out of the speaker that is being fed a signal thru that particular rca out even if the numbers end up the same as another rca out. Check your rca's here.


hot damn... you may be right. I'm going to double check this now.

your other points are valid, so I had no need to response to those 

EDIT UPDATE: Well. The Morels are indeed on the FRONT and the Pioneer Mids are on the REAR. Should this be swapped? I just completed another AutoTA and the "rear" show 0.0 when checking the distance. Oh Well... still sound pretty good sans the door panel creaks, but thats for another topic.


----------



## jpdnkstr

ZAKOH said:


> I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.


 would adding a pair of tweeters give me any advantage, or options for running active, are you familiar with the quality of polks passive networks? Thanks again for all your help! What about returning my coaxs and getting a set of components up front?


----------



## 07azhhr

fhlh002 said:


> hot damn... you may be right. I'm going to double check this now.
> 
> your other points are valid, so I had no need to response to those
> 
> EDIT UPDATE: Well. The Morels are indeed on the FRONT and the Pioneer Mids are on the REAR. Should this be swapped? I just completed another AutoTA and the "rear" show 0.0 when checking the distance. Oh Well... still sound pretty good sans the door panel creaks, but thats for another topic.


That placement works and if the mids are indeed playing midrange/midbass frequencies then they are on the correct rca's from the sounds of it. Having it still show 0.0 is odd. Both of mine spit out numbers that are 2-3x the measured distance for all channels. Hmmmmm. I do not know what else to suggest. Sorry.


----------



## rton20s

jpdnkstr said:


> would adding a pair of tweeters give me any advantage, or options for running active, are you familiar with the quality of polks passive networks? Thanks again for all your help! What about returning my coaxs and getting a set of components up front?


Adding a set of tweeters isn't going to do anything to help you. In fact, I would say it would be more a hindrance than anything. Extra money, more complicated install and it doesn't really get you any closer to an active setup. 

If you are truly interested in an active setup, you should sell your two sets of Polk MM571s and pick up a set of components. If you're sold on Polk, check out the MM6501 or MM5251 (whichever will fit best). There are tons of great options out there though from other brands depending on your budget (Pioneer, JBL, HAT, etc.). With an active setup you'll run one channel to each tweeter, one channel to each mid and then you'll have the subwoofer channel(s). This will do away with your rear speakers, and should give you better staging.


----------



## 07azhhr

rton20s said:


> Adding a set of tweeters isn't going to do anything to help you. In fact, I would say it would be more a hindrance than anything. Extra money, more complicated install and it doesn't really get you any closer to an active setup.
> 
> If you are truly interested in an active setup, you should sell your two sets of Polk MM571s and pick up a set of components. If you're sold on Polk, check out the MM6501 or MM5251 (whichever will fit best). There are tons of great options out there though from other brands depending on your budget (Pioneer, JBL, HAT, etc.). With an active setup you'll run one channel to each tweeter, one channel to each mid and then you'll have the subwoofer channel(s). This will do away with your rear speakers, and should give you better staging.


Yea what he said ^^^


----------



## NucFusion

ZAKOH said:


> I don't think there is a big advantage to running coaxial speakers in active mode. For example, there is no need to time align tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since there is effectively no timing delay between tweeter and woofer. Also, if the woofer and tweeter level is already matched, there is no need to match there levels again. The Auto EQ should take care of frequency response issues. Running a coaxial speaker active could make sense if the built in crossover network really sucks. I do have a preference for using component tweeters when its possibly to mount them higher somewhere at the dash level.


I am running a full range passive set up using the network mode setting, mainly to get the additional crossover frequencies and slopes between the low and mid channels. I just set the mid low pass to pass to give a full range signal. Of course, I have no intent to run any rear speakers, so the TA is not needed. It also gives me the ability to easily add some imaging tweeters if needed to help raise the soundstage.


----------



## DATCAT

Will this deck use the auto TA and auto EQ while using the internal amplifiers?


----------



## JVD240

DATCAT said:


> Will this deck use the auto TA and auto EQ while using the internal amplifiers?


Yes. It can use all functions while using the internal amp.


----------



## jpdnkstr

I am loving my 80 prs!..... I have decided to loose the coax, and go active(realized I don't need rear speakers, after unplugging my rear rca's for the weekend!) I do like the sound of the Polks, and I used to enjoy MB Quart in 1995-98? haven't heard since, I am considering buying seperates without passive networks(why would I need them!). I have been looking into Focal, and Rainbow(a little expensive), but don't have anywhere to audition! I would really appreciate some help choosing speakers, please let me know if I should take this to another thread, as I am not familiar with forums!


----------



## rton20s

jpdnkstr said:


> I am loving my 80 prs!..... I have decided to loose the coax, and go active(realized I don't need rear speakers, after unplugging my rear rca's for the weekend!) I do like the sound of the Polks, and I used to enjoy MB Quart in 1995-98? haven't heard since, I am considering buying seperates without passive networks(why would I need them!). I have been looking into Focal, and Rainbow(a little expensive), but don't have anywhere to audition! I would really appreciate some help choosing speakers, please let me know if I should take this to another thread, as I am not familiar with forums!


Yeah, you should start a new thread. The best forum to post to would probably be here:
System Design - Help Me Choose Equipment For My Car - DIYMA Car Audio Forum


----------



## calguy

Anyone know how much of the source level adjuster I can use on the Subwoofer for setting gains? (+6 to -24)
I have one IDQ10v2d2 setting gain with a test tone 40Hz-10db cross to 80Hz, Is this the right tone?Thanks for the help


----------



## spl152db

calguy said:


> Anyone know how much of the source level adjuster I can use on the Subwoofer for setting gains? (+6 to -24)
> I have one IDQ10v2d2 setting gain with a test tone 40Hz-10db cross to 80Hz, Is this the right tone?Thanks for the help


I set mine at negative 9. I didn't like the way the positive numbers sounded. Felt like it would clip some songs. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Shadowmarx

Mine's set at -18....


----------



## spyders03

So, on my 80PRS I was setting the gains of my new 4ch amp, and I was using a SMD DD-1 (Say what you want, they are a handy and affordable tool) and when I was testing the output of the HU, my front RCA's did not have any detectable (>1%) distortion, however the rear channel did have some distortion at volume 56/62 on the left side, and 59/62 on the right. I changed out everything that I could to make sure that was the source of the problem, and that is the answer that I came to. Should this be happening? Logic would dictate that the front and rear channel should have about the same distortion levels at the same volume. Anyone else find anything like this? Do you think my HU is messed up somehow?


----------



## tnbubba

no but i can tell you mine at 0dbfs clips at 62 IF you change anything past 0 setting..
you should consider that an absolute maximum..
I check all 3 channels on my unit and they were spot on.. i cant remember what harmonic on the scope showed or the rta but they were below my -100db noise on my soundcard


----------



## 07azhhr

spyders03 said:


> So, on my 80PRS I was setting the gains of my new 4ch amp, and I was using a SMD DD-1 (Say what you want, they are a handy and affordable tool) and when I was testing the output of the HU, my front RCA's did not have any detectable (>1%) distortion, however the rear channel did have some distortion at volume 56/62 on the left side, and 59/62 on the right. I changed out everything that I could to make sure that was the source of the problem, and that is the answer that I came to. Should this be happening? Logic would dictate that the front and rear channel should have about the same distortion levels at the same volume. Anyone else find anything like this? Do you think my HU is messed up somehow?


 
Have you alredy ran the auto eq/ta feature? Have you adjusted any levels for any of the channels or eq settings? I ask because once you adjust any speaker channel seperately from the others then you will be altering it's signal compared to the other channels.


----------



## Griffin dai

Hi, has anybody managed to go 3 way plus sub in network mode? 

My current set up is:

DEH-80PRS
Focal 165kp 2way up front
Genesis P69 subs in rear
DLS A7

I'd like to change the Focals for hifi drivers and go 3 way plus keep the pair of p69's and the A7. 

Just interested to see if anyone has a similar set up and how they've done it!

Cheers
Dave


----------



## rton20s

I just don't see this as feasible with the DEH-80PRS, or with the A7. To do this correctly you'll need an outboard processor that can handle 8 channels and at least two more channels of amplification. Unless the processor has enough built in amplification to power the tweeters of your 3-way set. 

The DEH-80PRS is a pretty awesome little unit for the price, but it definitely has its limitations.


----------



## JVD240

The other issue is that, even if you throw a passive crossover in the mix, the high HPF(1.25kHz) on the PRS doesn't go low enough for a proper 3 way setup.


----------



## rton20s

Depending on the driver arrangement (mounting locations, driver size, etc.), you can actually make a 3-way + sub work. (You have to split your "Mid" output with your passive crossover.) This requires your mid-bass and mid-range to be mounted very close together as they would share the same time alignment. 

Even if Griffin dai could make that part of his setup work, he still has to deal with the rear fill. The DEH-80PRS can't handle this, and his 5 channel amp is two channels short.


----------



## Shadowmarx

rton20s said:


> Depending on the driver arrangement (mounting locations, driver size, etc.), you can actually make a 3-way + sub work. (You have to split your "Mid" output with your passive crossover.) This requires your mid-bass and mid-range to be mounted very close together as they would share the same time alignment.
> 
> Even if Griffin dai could make that part of his setup work, he still has to deal with the rear fill. The DEH-80PRS can't handle this, and his 5 channel amp is two channels short.


(right that) You would need a Active 2-Way Electronic Crossover tho...


----------



## rton20s

If installation is taking care of the time alignment issues and the head unit is setting the bandpass for the mid-range/mid-bass combo (HPF for mid-bass and LPF for mid-range), I see know reason why an "active 2-way electronic crossover" would be required. Couldn't this be handled with a simple passive crossover designed to low-pass the mid-bass and high pass the mid-range?


----------



## tnbubba

yea i did little different
sub to 80 7" to 1.2 to 3" lpg dome mid 
then i used the amp to cross x/o the tweets but you could do a passive at say 6 k to the tweeter..
I'll still spearminting..
or passive on the midbass/mids..
i wish they woudl fix those damn crossover points..
its dang firmware....................****!!!!!


----------



## Griffin dai

Thanks for the input guys.

The more I think about it I might just stick with the 2 way front and pair of 6x9 subs in the rear in network mode. 
I'll probably swap the Focals out though and give the hifi drivers a shot (probably Peerless Vifa) 

Ill see how this goes and report back next month


----------



## calguy

07azhhr said:


> Have you alredy ran the auto eq/ta feature? Have you adjusted any levels for any of the channels or eq settings? I ask because once you adjust any speaker channel seperately from the others then you will be altering it's signal compared to the other channels.


So what's first, settings gains or Auto EQ/ TA

Thanks


----------



## beef316

calguy said:


> So what's first, settings gains or Auto EQ/ TA
> 
> Thanks


Setting gains.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Raysclim

Hello all ,

This is my current system setup 
Gladen Aerospace 2 way active speaker 
Audio system HX10 Phase subwoofer 
Mosconi Zero 4 amplifier 
Mosconi AS200.2 amplifier 
Mosconi DSP6to8 Processor with controller/display unit 
Stock Headunit 

I knew the ideal head unit will be one with optical output to feed to the processor , however ,it is just hard to find one around , Alpine DVA9861 is discontinued , ODR is just unreachable . So, when I saw 80PRS with all the modern function that I am currently lacking eg. BT, I device support ..etc . I just went ahead to order one .

My question are below , 
1. All cross over setting , TA ,gain ...etc are currently set on dsp6to8 processor , 80PRS have the similar function. Do I need to have two setting ? One on dsp6to8 and one on 80PRS ? Or just use one ? How to enable pioneer function on this as I am afraid it might interfere with DSP6to8 setting ?

2. The idevice connecting to pioneer , does it bypass idevice internal DAC and uses the DAC on the Pioneer ? 


Please help

Thanks 
Raymond


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## TypeR

I am considering switching my setup to 3way network and I have read that the internal amp will still work. Will the AutoEQ/TA still work with active front components off an amp and the rear coax's off the deck, or will it not pick up the rear speakers?


----------



## 07azhhr

On page three of the manual it says it is recommended to turn the internal amp off if you are using the rca outputs. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_InstallationManual020712.pdf

Even if you did do this though, in network mode the rear outs become the hi outs and the front channels become the mid outs. Due to the 1.2k minimum HP on the hi outs you would want to run the rears off the mid outs. The problem then becomes an issue of time alignment since your front mids would also be sharing the same x-over and t/a settings. Now if your rear speakers and your front mids are the same distance from your head then you could get away with this but if not you will not be able to get a proper time alignment setting. It will also make level matching from right to left harder since any level adjustment made to either the right mid channel or the left mid channel will affect both the rear and front speaker together. The auto tune will probably be very very far off as it is not perfect even when you are running it to just active fronts and sub lol.


----------



## Raysclim

07azhhr said:


> On page three of the manual it says it is recommended to turn the internal amp off if you are using the rca outputs. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_InstallationManual020712.pdf
> 
> Even if you did do this though, in network mode the rear outs become the hi outs and the front channels become the mid outs. Due to the 1.2k minimum HP on the hi outs you would want to run the rears off the mid outs. The problem then becomes an issue of time alignment since your front mids would also be sharing the same x-over and t/a settings. Now if your rear speakers and your front mids are the same distance from your head then you could get away with this but if not you will not be able to get a proper time alignment setting. It will also make level matching from right to left harder since any level adjustment made to either the right mid channel or the left mid channel will affect both the rear and front speaker together. The auto tune will probably be very very far off as it is not perfect even when you are running it to just active fronts and sub lol.


I am planning to use pre out RCA to connect to a sound processor (mosconi dsp 6to8) , which one should I use , I was recommended to use mid pre out RCA connection as it is full range. But what setting does the 80prs need to be (front/rear/sub or low/mid/hi) ? 
And how to turn off the internal amp for the pioneer head unit ? 
Thanks 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## rton20s

Raysclim said:


> I am planning to use pre out RCA to connect to a sound processor (mosconi dsp 6to8) , which one should I use , I was recommended to use mid pre out RCA connection as it is full range. But what setting does the 80prs need to be (front/rear/sub or low/mid/hi) ?
> And how to turn off the internal amp for the pioneer head unit ?
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


You'll want to run in standard mode (front/rear/sub) and pull the signal from the front channels. Also, check out page 35 & 36 of the manual for instructions on how to turn off the internal amplifier.


----------



## Raysclim

rton20s said:


> You'll want to run in standard mode (front/rear/sub) and pull the signal from the front channels. Also, check out page 35 & 36 of the manual for instructions on how to turn off the internal amplifier.


Thanks , this is very helpful to me . 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## 07azhhr

Raysclim said:


> Thanks , this is very helpful to me .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I would also say to use standard mode as you can fully defeat the x-overs there. The mid channel x-over's lowest setting is 25hz @ 6db. While this is nice and low it is still not going to give you a true full range signal.

To turn the internal amp off turn the HU off first. Then press and hold in the volumn knob until the hidden menu pops up. Then turn the volumn knob until you find internal amp. Then press and release the volumn knob and it should turn from on to off at the bottom of the screen.


----------



## SViglienzone4

Does it play FLAC files? just came across these and they look to be the way to go for the best quality?

offtopic but what are your guys ways for downloading music? if torrents what sites?


----------



## t3sn4f2

SViglienzone4 said:


> Does it play FLAC files? just came across these and they look to be the way to go for the best quality?
> 
> offtopic but what are your guys ways for downloading music? if torrents what sites?


-Not digitally.

-MOG or iTunes.


----------



## SViglienzone4

unfortunately I cannot afford either of those


----------



## Married_Man

If you use an iPod / iPhone, I believe you can play Flac through the iPhone, digitally.

I do not have an iPhone, so I re-ripped all of my CDs in WAV format. WAV is completely uncompressed and provides the same signal quality as the original CD.


----------



## JVD240

Married_Man said:


> If you use an iPod / iPhone, I believe you can play Flac through the iPhone, digitally.
> 
> I do not have an iPhone, so I re-ripped all of my CDs in WAV format. WAV is completely uncompressed and provides the same signal quality as the original CD.


Apple devices do not support flac playback. The only only possible way to make it work would be to have a flac app that supports streaming and stream through bluetooth. I believe some apps also allow you to output through the dock connector. Not sure. But then you would be controlling everything from the actual device and not the PRS. May as well just use a line out.

A better option would be to buy a dedicated DAP that supports flac and has a line out.

I'm assuming you also don't have money for that though...


----------



## Married_Man

You're right, I had researched this months back and forgot what I read 

Here's a link Pioneer's comments on it and quotes below:



> Pioneer Electronics (North America)
> Hi guys, regarding FLAC support, the DEH-80PRS has been designed to maximize the performance of Linear PCM 16-bit/44.1kHz digital audio. Higher resolutions, such as 24/96 or 24/192 in any format are not supported by the DACs (the DEH-80PRS has three, one for each pair of pre-outs). Therefore, while it would be technically possible to decode FLAC, any higher resolution files would either not be supported or would require an allocation of resources to downcovert to 16/44.1 without any discernible benefit.
> 
> Brett Howard
> I would be more than willing to make sure that everything on the drive I installed was at 44.1/16. Just being able to get bit perfect yet compressed CD quality audio would be a great thing. I wouldn't be asking for anything more until the deck supported playback of SACD media. So is there any possibility of a deck in this class that supports FLAC?
> 
> Pioneer Electronics (North America)
> Regarding Apple Lossless, while the DEH-80PRS does not decode ALAC internally, it is possible to store ALAC, uncompressed AIFF or uncompressed WAV files on an iPod and playback through the Pioneer unit. When connected to the DEH-80PRS (and/or practically any of our in-dash products dating back to 2009), the iPod will decode the file internally and then pass the 16/44.1 LPCM to the Pioneer unit via the USB connection. This bypasses the iPod/iPhone internal DAC entirely and in the case of the DEH-80PRS (or the Stage 4 DEX-P99RS), transfers the data directly into the DSP. This provides the benefit of using the familiar iPod interface for music selection, bit-for-bit CD resolution (when using AIFF/WAV) and the ability to bring hundreds of CDs to your car in one device (160GB iPod Classic).
> 
> Pioneer Electronics (North America)
> Hi Brett, it's unlikely you'll see FLAC support until the hardware will also support the higher resolutions that are currently being distributed by sources such as HD Tracks. So for 2012 (at least), your best bet, although not ideal, is to use uncompressed WAV with your MSC device or convert your FLAC to ALAC and use an iPod/iPhone as listed in the last post. Defintely thanks for the discussion though, this provides us valuable feedback to fight for high resolution support in future products!


----------



## Raysclim

Hello all ,

Need help ! 
Under standard mode , using RCA output (front) to connect to processor .
How to disable the cutoff frequency for subwoofer ? As I am doing all control from processor (phase/cross over /time alignment /gain..etc) , basically I would like to use the 80PRS as dead drive output just pure signal to my processor .
Currently , I am not able to disable the cutoff frequency for my SW. The lowest I can set is 50Hz , this have caused my subwoofer output to be greatly reduce .

Below are extracted from the 80PRS operating manual :

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
Operating this unit Adjusting subwoofer settings
The cut-off frequency and output level can be adjusted when the subwoofer output is on.
1 Use M.C. to select SW 2.
Refer to Introduction of audio adjustments on page 20.
# When the subwoofer output is on, you can se- lect SW 2.
2 Turn M.C. to select cut-off frequency. 50—63—80—100—125 (Hz)
Only frequencies lower than those in the se- lected range are outputted from the subwoo- fer.
3 Turn LEVER to adjust the output level of the subwoofer.
+6 to -24 is displayed as the level is increased or decreased.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

Also , what is use for the following functions :
1. auto sound levelizer 
2. Music browser ( I am using ipod at USB 1 ,do I set it on ? )
3. How does I set to see the song title of the CD that I play? No problem on iPod but didn't show song title on CD .
4. Can the tuner frequency search for even number ? Tuner only search for odd digit station eg. FM100.3 ,FM88.5 (all odd number digit after the decimal ) but at my area , there are many radio station with even digit eg. FM95.0 ,FM95.8..etc , is there a way to set the frequency so that I am able to get other radio stations?
5.resetting the microprocessor , what is the effect if I reset it after all my setting is done ? Will it wipe everything out ?

Please help 
Raymond 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## nismos14

I think you set the slope to through to achieve that.


----------



## Raysclim

May I know How to Do that? Can you provide me the steps? 
Appreciate that 

Thanks. Raymond 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nismos14

Go to the menu for SW SLOPE, and select the multifunction knob left or right until it says 0 or through. Right now it probably says 6db or 12 db or 18 db or something.


----------



## Hi-FiDelity

frankmehta said:


> Does the pico fuse issue even apply to the premier series of decks???


Well no seeing that there is no longer a Premier line offered by Pioneer, not since 2009. Though if you're talking past tense than I would think probably it is the same company after all.


----------



## SViglienzone4

Not wanting to get everyone too off topic but the formats where he was talking about quality like 44.1/16 or something like that is there a program that can give you the quality of a song you downloaded before you play it in your car and it sounds horrible


----------



## SuBXeRo

This is a long as thread, jesus.

I have had my deck for a few months and have gotten around to dumping my new sundown component speakers in and my zed draconia III in.

I believe i fooked up the rca grounds. I am buying a multimeter tonight to dispel the problem once in for all. I have done a ton of troubleshooting and it isn't the amps. Has anyone confirmed the pico fuse location (if there is a pico fuse) or a fix for this?


----------



## t3sn4f2

SViglienzone4 said:


> Not wanting to get everyone too off topic but the formats where he was talking about quality like 44.1/16 or something like that is there a program that can give you the quality of a song you downloaded before you play it in your car and it sounds horrible


:freak: <~~How I feel after reading that.


----------



## SViglienzone4

Sorry. I don't understand...


----------



## Raysclim

nismos14 said:


> Go to the menu for SW SLOPE, and select the multifunction knob left or right until it says 0 or through. Right now it probably says 6db or 12 db or 18 db or something.


Hi. 
Thanks for the leads, I found the sw 1 setting at audio menu and turn it off. And sw2 and sw3 function is now disable .

Thanks .
RAYMOND 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 07azhhr

Raysclim said:


> Hi.
> Thanks for the leads, I found the sw 1 setting at audio menu and turn it off. And sw2 and sw3 function is now disable .
> 
> Thanks .
> RAYMOND
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


Turning off SW1 turns off the sub out RCA signal. Meaning that if you have RCA's hooked up to them they will not have any output to whatever they are connected too. 

You are saying you want to run the HU using just the front RCA's so these SW settings will have zero effect on the front RCA outputs that you are using. You will need to select front F.HPF1 and then select PASS. This will bypass the front RCA x-over settings and give you a full range signal that you are wanting. 

Again the SW 1 and SW2 are not the ones that you need to worry about since you are not using their RCA channels. 

BTW almost every thing you have asked is all found in the manual. This info is on page 26. But almost every single one of your questions can be answered in the manual. Take a bit of time a read it. It will be very helpful to you. The only one that might not be in the manual is the stations one about odd vs even. I do not believe that it can be setup to use even numbers if you have the US version.


----------



## DaveyB

Apologies if this has been asked before (i did search this thread) but does Siri work with this HU, i.e. hold a button on HU or MFSW and you hear the iphones 2 chimes to indicate siri is waiting for your question. I get the feeling it doesnt but heres hoping.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Raysclim

07azhhr said:


> Turning off SW1 turns off the sub out RCA signal. Meaning that if you have RCA's hooked up to them they will not have any output to whatever they are connected too.
> 
> You are saying you want to run the HU using just the front RCA's so these SW settings will have zero effect on the front RCA outputs that you are using. You will need to select front F.HPF1 and then select PASS. This will bypass the front RCA x-over settings and give you a full range signal that you are wanting.
> 
> Again the SW 1 and SW2 are not the ones that you need to worry about since you are not using their RCA channels.
> 
> BTW almost every thing you have asked is all found in the manual. This info is on page 26. But almost every single one of your questions can be answered in the manual. Take a bit of time a read it. It will be very helpful to you. The only one that might not be in the manual is the stations one about odd vs even. I do not believe that it can be setup to use even numbers if you have the US version.


Thanks . I have spend some time on manual and hand on today , most of my question is clear now except the tuner frequency , I think you are right that us version does not support even number . Well, it is not a major concern so I am cool . 

For the audio setting , previously , I was using just a pair of RCA output from front output (under std mode) , they are connected to mosconi dsp6to8 processor as low level input , the mosconi output high /mid/sub RCA to connect the the amplifier.

On this setup , switching the SW1 on and off does not have much effect on getting the subwoofer output that I desired , mid low kick is lacking impact . Installer have to tune the gain on amplifier beyond half way to get the loudness . Later we have a idea to test switching std mode to network mode and using the mid output RCA to processor .
The cutoff frequency is 25hz and it clear the problem away. The sub is now giving good impact mid low kick and nice smooth low . And we need to lower the gain of the amplifier less than half way now. 

So , this is where I stop now . Will listen to this setting for couple weeks to see if further tuning is needed . 

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Married_Man

SViglienzone4 said:


> Not wanting to get everyone too off topic but the formats where he was talking about quality like 44.1/16 or something like that is there a program that can give you the quality of a song you downloaded before you play it in your car and it sounds horrible


When you download music, most sources give the bit-rate of the file you're downloading. Most DMR-free MP3 sales sites, like Amazon, are at 256kbps. iTunes is at 256kbps as well, but a different file format, not MP3 but AAC. AAC is generally accepted as higher quality than MP3 for a given bitrate. Does iTunes still offer DRM'd 128kbps songs? If so, don't buy them.

All of the above is lossy compression, meaning the song is compressed to save space and audio information is removed in the process.

FLAC is a form of lossless audio compression where the song is compressed to save space, but supposedly no audio information is lost in the compression. FLAC generally uses a variable bitrate ranging anywhere from 200kbps to 1000+kbps for each song. Areas in a song with little audio information would be compressed around 200kbps and areas with a lot of information would be at the higher end.

WAV files are not compressed and are expressed in kilohertz, 44.1KHz/16-bit, instead of kilobits per second.

With MP3 files, I usually try to stay at 320kbps or above. Above that, I'm not sure if I hear a quality difference between CDs or if I just think I do. But, as I mentioned in a post above, when I got the Pioneer DEH-80prs, I re-ripped all my CDs to WAV so I know I have the same sound as the CD.

Hope this helps.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Married_Man said:


> When you download music, most sources give the bit-rate of the file you're downloading. Most DMR-free MP3 sales sites, like Amazon, are at 256kbps. iTunes is at 256kbps as well, but a different file format, not MP3 but AAC. AAC is generally accepted as higher quality than MP3 for a given bitrate. Does iTunes still offer DRM'd 128kbps songs? If so, don't buy them.
> 
> All of the above is lossy compression, meaning the song is compressed to save space and audio information is removed in the process.
> 
> FLAC is a form of lossless audio compression where the song is compressed to save space, but supposedly no audio information is lost in the compression. FLAC generally uses a variable bitrate ranging anywhere from 200kbps to 1000+kbps for each song. Areas in a song with little audio information would be compressed around 200kbps and areas with a lot of information would be at the higher end.
> 
> WAV files are not compressed and are expressed in kilohertz, 44.1KHz/16-bit, instead of kilobits per second.
> 
> With MP3 files, I usually try to stay at 320kbps or above. Above that, I'm not sure if I hear a quality difference between CDs or if I just think I do. But, as I mentioned in a post above, when I got the Pioneer DEH-80prs, I re-ripped all my CDs to WAV so I know I have the same sound as the CD.
> 
> Hope this helps.


All iTunes store songs and music videos are AAC 256k. Been like that for a few years now.


----------



## SViglienzone4

Married_Man said:


> When you download music, most sources give the bit-rate of the file you're downloading. Most DMR-free MP3 sales sites, like Amazon, are at 256kbps. iTunes is at 256kbps as well, but a different file format, not MP3 but AAC. AAC is generally accepted as higher quality than MP3 for a given bitrate. Does iTunes still offer DRM'd 128kbps songs? If so, don't buy them.
> 
> All of the above is lossy compression, meaning the song is compressed to save space and audio information is removed in the process.
> 
> FLAC is a form of lossless audio compression where the song is compressed to save space, but supposedly no audio information is lost in the compression. FLAC generally uses a variable bitrate ranging anywhere from 200kbps to 1000+kbps for each song. Areas in a song with little audio information would be compressed around 200kbps and areas with a lot of information would be at the higher end.
> 
> WAV files are not compressed and are expressed in kilohertz, 44.1KHz/16-bit, instead of kilobits per second.
> 
> With MP3 files, I usually try to stay at 320kbps or above. Above that, I'm not sure if I hear a quality difference between CDs or if I just think I do. But, as I mentioned in a post above, when I got the Pioneer DEH-80prs, I re-ripped all my CDs to WAV so I know I have the same sound as the CD.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thank You very much. That helped a lot.


----------



## calguy

Hi guys, using Standar Mode in Pioneer DEH80PRS I have my Low Pass Filter at 80hz at 18db slope and my (Midbass)Rear High pass filter at 80hz at 12db slope and here is where I'm lost (Tweeters)Front High pass filter? right know is crossed at 80hz. Is this the right settings for the fronts?
I am using the passives crossovers Bi-amp and the two Amp are set to Full Range.
Thanks for your help.


----------



## ZAKOH

t3sn4f2 said:


> All iTunes store songs and music videos are AAC 256k. Been like that for a few years now.


My understanding this format is slightly more space efficient than MP3, so 256K AAC is roughly equivalent to 320kb mp3. I personally ripped all of my music into flac format. This is how it's stored on my PC under foobar2000 control. Right now I export everything in 320k CBR mp3 format. When the external devices are ready, I might use pure flac. I do have a concern about space issues. Right now 32GB USB/SD card is enough to store my mobile music. In flac format, I will need 5 times that much space. Most head units do not even have a support for file systems this big.


----------



## gckless

Anyone do the BT firmware update yet?


----------



## 07azhhr

calguy said:


> Hi guys, using Standar Mode in Pioneer DEH80PRS I have my Low Pass Filter at 80hz at 18db slope and my (Midbass)Rear High pass filter at 80hz at 12db slope and here is where I'm lost (Tweeters)Front High pass filter? right know is crossed at 80hz. Is this the right settings for the fronts?
> I am using the passives crossovers Bi-amp and the two Amp are set to Full Range.
> Thanks for your help.


 
Sounds like the tweeters x-over point is being handled by the passive x-over so it really doesn't matter what you set the front x-over to in this case. 

But it also sounds like you already have seperate amps running your front components so you should consider switching over to network mode and taking advantage of the active x-over options for the mids and tweets. This will let you ditch the passives and test out various x-over points and more slopes.


----------



## calguy

Thanks 07azhhr,
In the near future I'm gonna swich to NM and take advantage of HU and Amps.


----------



## 07azhhr

calguy said:


> Thanks 07azhhr,
> In the near future I'm gonna swich to NM and take advantage of HU and Amps.


No problem. I hope you enjoy your HU.


----------



## t3sn4f2

ZAKOH said:


> My understanding this format is slightly more space efficient than MP3, so 256K AAC is roughly equivalent to 320kb mp3. I personally ripped all of my music into flac format. This is how it's stored on my PC under foobar2000 control. Right now I export everything in 320k CBR mp3 format. When the external devices are ready, I might use pure flac. I do have a concern about space issues. *Right now 32GB USB/SD card is enough to store my mobile music.* In flac format, I will need 5 times that much space. Most head units do not even have a support for file systems this big.


Same here. I specifically bought a larger capacity iPhone5 just for that reason. My complete library currently stands at 2200 tracks of 256/320k. Which leaves me about 4 gigs for phone stuff at the moment.


----------



## quality_sound

Why didn't you just use an iPod Classic? 160GBs and WAY less expensive than an iPhone5.


----------



## t3sn4f2

quality_sound said:


> Why didn't you just use an iPod Classic? 160GBs and WAY less expensive than an iPhone5.


Not if you still need/want an iPhone5.  (as well as keeping it down to only one device)

Also there are advantages when it comes to navigating an iOS music library. No need to buy an expensive DD when you can get a better output din and mount the phone in a cradle. Then navigate from there. Much easier when you have apps with custom gesturing and SIRI which lets you request individual tracks not just artist/album/playlist like everyone else.


----------



## quality_sound

t3sn4f2 said:


> Not if you still need/want an iPhone5.  (as well as keeping it down to only one device)
> 
> Also there are advantages when it comes to navigating an iOS music library. No need to buy an expensive DD when you can get a better output din and mount the phone in a cradle. Then navigate from there. Much easier when you have apps with custom gesturing and SIRI which lets you request individual tracks not just artist/album/playlist like everyone else.


I'll never understand that. Using your phone as your storage device means having to remember to plug it in every time you get in the car and FAR more part-charge battery cycles. If you have a permanently installed iPod you have none of these issues. 

Yes, having a dock and using the gestures can be nice but TBH, you're the first person I've known that uses them OR Siri. 

I DO see the merits to your solution but I just find it easier to use separate devices, especially since most providers limit data usage.


----------



## spyders03

I have 64gb on my Galaxy S3, plus a 32gb micros card installed in it, and still don't use it for my music in my car, unless I really really want Pandora or Digitally Imported Radio or something, and yes, my voice software will play single tracks as well. However, I keep a couple of 32gb sd cards in the center console and use them for my music. No sense in keeping wav and 320kb mp3s, then using a USB cable or BT to transfer it and losing the quality. I find my sd cards play much better SQ than when using BT or USB.


----------



## rekd0514

spyders03 said:


> I have 64gb on my Galaxy S3, plus a 32gb micros card installed in it, and still don't use it for my music in my car, unless I really really want Pandora or Digitally Imported Radio or something, and yes, my voice software will play single tracks as well. However, I keep a couple of 32gb sd cards in the center console and use them for my music. No sense in keeping wav and 320kb mp3s, then using a USB cable or BT to transfer it and losing the quality. I find my sd cards play much better SQ than when using BT or USB.


USB and SD card should be the exact same unless the USB device has some sort of processing. They are both digital loss-less connections am I right?


----------



## spyders03

If you have a USB drive plugged in, yes. If you are using a USB cable from a playback device, phone, I pod, etc, then there seems to be less quality over the connection.


----------



## rekd0514

spyders03 said:


> If you have a USB drive plugged in, yes. If you are using a USB cable from a playback device, phone, I pod, etc, then there seems to be less quality over the connection.


Yes, I believe that is because the device may have a DAC/processing itself and is changing the signal output. Thanks for the info though. I plan on upgrading from my Alpine CDA-9887 soon. I really want the bluetooth for calling features and the AUX, USB, SD card inputs are also a huge bonus. Back then the only real input option was an Ipod honestly, so I'm glad I can finally move on from using it.


----------



## Mike in CT

Being somewhat of an old fart, I had my entire music collection on CD. I think I have only ever downloaded about a dozen songs. From day one, I transfered everything to my itunes library in lossless format. Most of this library is now copied onto an older Ipod Classic that permanently resides in my glove compartment.

Some info from Pioneer:










I also came from a 9887.


----------



## t3sn4f2

quality_sound said:


> I'll never understand that. Using your phone as your storage device means having to remember to plug it in every time you get in the car and FAR more part-charge battery cycles. If you have a permanently installed iPod you have none of these issues.


It's a matter of taste. I don't like getting in the car with my wallet, phone, or anything bulky in my pants. So since I'm going to put it somewhere it might as well be on an easy to use cradle instead of somewhere else where it can rattle around all day. I can always put it away safely somewhere, but then I have to dig for it when a call comes through. Yes I hate blueteef handsfree. If someone calls me they want to talk to me, not me and 2 other jackasses in the car. I'm not worried about safety either. I'm one of those rare creatures that can actually drive with one hand and hold the phone at same time. It's legal to drive with one hand, scratch my balls with the other, and talk to three people in the car?! But I can't hold a phone and drive.  How many cops are using handsfree? (sorry mini handsfree side rant )

It also nice to have the phone charge up while you are going to be using it anyways. Make no sense to me to waste that charge opportunity during the day only to get home or work and have to sit there babysitting the phone till it gets some charge on it. 

Also charge cycles aren't used as complete cycles if you only charge say 1/4. Only that 1/4 cycle goes against the count. 



quality_sound said:


> Yes, having a dock and using the gestures can be nice but TBH, you're the first person I've known that uses them OR Siri.


Siri, yeah it's a rare thing. Sometimes you remember a song or here it on the radio, and want to here it right then and there. Aside from what I wrote above the cradle is more for those that don't have an aftermarket radio or a $2000 OEM nav unit. Until recently the only options where to use an aftermarket iPod integration kit, and no way in hell am I going to navigate one of those for anything else then track up/down/etc. Especially when the app is right there at your finger tips. With scrolling now playing list and all. It's like a miniDD. That won't be stolen either. 



quality_sound said:


> I DO see the merits to your solution but I just find it easier to use separate devices, especially since most providers limit data usage.


Yup, if it works for you, then go for it.


----------



## t3sn4f2

spyders03 said:


> *If you have a USB drive plugged in, yes. If you are using a USB cable from a playback device, phone, I pod, etc, then there seems to be less quality over the connection*.





rekd0514 said:


> Yes, I believe that is because the device may have a DAC/processing itself and is changing the signal output. Thanks for the info though. I plan on upgrading from my Alpine CDA-9887 soon. I really want the bluetooth for calling features and the AUX, USB, SD card inputs are also a huge bonus. Back then the only real input option was an Ipod honestly, so I'm glad I can finally move on from using it.


There is no reason that a USB device should change the signal, except unless it is something the user chose to do. There aren't hidden things going on that are inherent to this type of USB interface versus a drive. Only apps or OS settings affect that. If it is happening then it something that is fixed not taken as being an inferior source.

Is it an iDevice connected via a USB plug on the head unit side? If so it's the settings, an app changing something, corrupt OS, or simply your ears are biased against it.

Also Erin (bikinpunk) tested his 80prs's CD and ipod source to make sure that they were both true digital sources from bit to DSP and they both came out identical in measured results. Identical readings in things like the noise floor graph pattern can only happen when comparing digital sources on the same DAC (ie CD/ipod to 80prs's outputs). If anything changes you get a totally different noise floor pattern.


----------



## spyders03

I could be totally wrong, wouldn't be the first time, lol. I should mention that I haven't tried a true test on my 80prs, but with older head units it always seemed to introduce more noise, then again it is with older cell phones too, not my S3. And as many people have said, to each their own, if it is working for you, that's what really matters.


----------



## Leonel

gckless said:


> Anyone do the BT firmware update yet?


How do you do that?


----------



## gckless

Leonel said:


> How do you do that?


"Optional Bluetooth Firmware Update HW05-SW01.27.20
Enables Bluetooth® AVRCP control and metadata display for iPhone® 5 and iOS 6 users."

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/S...ampaign=01-2013_Car-BTUpdate (2)&utm_content=

So basically you don't need it if you don't have an iPhone 5 or iOS 6 or don't use BT. But the instructions are all in that link.


----------



## Leonel

gckless said:


> "Optional Bluetooth Firmware Update HW05-SW01.27.20
> Enables Bluetooth® AVRCP control and metadata display for iPhone® 5 and iOS 6 users."
> 
> http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/S...ampaign=01-2013_Car-BTUpdate (2)&utm_content=
> 
> So basically you don't need it if you don't have an iPhone 5 or iOS 6 or don't use BT. But the instructions are all in that link.


Thanks 
I have the Iphone 5 and been able to use all the BT features so far without the upgrade


----------



## Leonel

Only problem is I Mac computers and that requires Windows for the upgrade


----------



## spl152db

Leonel said:


> Only problem is I Mac computers and that requires Windows for the upgrade


And the update is only for apple. Lol

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Leonel

spl152db said:


> And the update is only for apple. Lol
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Exactly!!


----------



## spyders03

Windows 7 and Linux FTW, lol. Too bad I don't have any apple products to necessitate the upgrade. Darn...


----------



## gckless

Meh, BT is crap, ESPECIALLY for streaming audio. I was just wondering if anyone actually did it.


----------



## Leonel

It seems to work fine with my iPhone5.
I bought it from Crutchfield and that was one of my concerns when I got it ,but they assured me that it was corrected ,so maybe it has already been updated


----------



## Leonel

gckless said:


> Meh, BT is crap, ESPECIALLY for streaming audio. I was just wondering if anyone actually did it.


I don't, for making or receiving calls works very well for me with very clear sound on the other end


----------



## spyders03

Leonel said:


> It seems to work fine with my iPhone5.
> I bought it from Crutchfield and that was one of my concerns when I got it ,but they assured me that it was corrected ,so maybe it has already been updated


You could always check the BT version on the hidden menu, however if everything is working good now, no reason to "fix" it. I might check it just because, however if I actually see that it's not up to date I might have to do it anyways, lol.


----------



## Leonel

Ha.. What's the current BT version ?


----------



## Married_Man

ZAKOH said:


> Most head units do not even have a support for file systems this big.


The 80prs does. I've used both an 80GB SSD and a 160GB HD with no problems (other than the HD being a very slow one).


----------



## gckless

Leonel said:


> Ha.. What's the current BT version ?


HW05-SW01.27.20
That's the one the update brings. So, that is the current one. If you haven't done the upgrade, you have an old one


----------



## Leonel

gckless said:


> HW05-SW01.27.20
> That's the one the update brings. So, that is the current one. If you haven't done the upgrade, you have an old one


Yep, I do have the old version HW04-5W01.07.23


----------



## Angrywhopper

gckless said:


> "Optional Bluetooth Firmware Update HW05-SW01.27.20
> Enables Bluetooth® AVRCP control and metadata display for iPhone® 5 and iOS 6 users."
> 
> http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/S...ampaign=01-2013_Car-BTUpdate (2)&utm_content=
> 
> So basically you don't need it if you don't have an iPhone 5 or iOS 6 or don't use BT. But the instructions are all in that link.


Thanks for the link. I'm sure ill need this...


----------



## thebookfreak58

I did the update...I now have control of my iPhone 5, but still no metadata over BT...

Anyone confirm?

If it makes any difference, I did the update from my mac...


----------



## rodeoclownicp

holy s#!t this is a long thread... i will be honest i read about7 random pages ... thats it.. so who is the definative expert on this unit and owns it.,, i just watched the video on the website.. i realy need some help but i also hate typing back and forth for ever,... i was hoping you could pm me and i would supply my cell... but if not... will network 1 & 2 still work like old school front and rear? i have two pairs of 2way, one pair for front and back, and they have passive....or should i buy a another 4 chan for the tweets and not use the passives and just run active ,, i kinda get how to set up the filters but i have always wondered how will the volume of the seperately amped tweets and and woofers increase and decrease in unison... any way if some badass expert doesnt mind pm i will provide my cell and hopefully u have the answers


----------



## SoulMan76

Id suggest you download the operation manual, it goes over all menus and how they work, and should answer all your questions. I know you're sick of reading specs or manuals, or be bothered reading more than a few pages of a thread, but it would be the easiest way to answer all the questions you have.
Its how I learned how to use my 80prs, I had to go over the manual a second time when I finally had it installed and was able to work the buttons at the same time.

Hands on, by far the quickest way to get to know your new gear.


----------



## rodeoclownicp

SoulMan76 said:


> Id suggest you download the operation manual, it goes over all menus and how they work, and should answer all your questions. I know you're sick of reading specs or manuals, or be bothered reading more than a few pages of a thread, but it would be the easiest way to answer all the questions you have.
> Its how I learned how to use my 80prs, I had to go over the manual a second time when I finally had it installed and was able to work the buttons at the same time.
> 
> Hands on, by far the quickest way to get to know your new gear.


ya i have figured out a few things, not having trouble with the network concept,,and bi amping will work, and i know db can be adjusted,,,the one thing i like about the idea of going passive is that the volume will increase and decrease in unison ... but how do i have perfect volume increases and decreases with out having to adjust the settings at different spots on the dial????


----------



## ramonesfan

Mic question - my Bluetooth sounds terrible to the person on the other end of a cell call. Mic is mounted in the same spot as my old Alpine (center dash under HU) had no issues with it. This 80PRS one is not good, everyone complains about it so I end up using 'hands on' vs hands free.

Thoughts?


----------



## SoulMan76

ramonesfan said:


> Mic question - my Bluetooth sounds terrible to the person on the other end of a cell call. Mic is mounted in the same spot as my old Alpine (center dash under HU) had no issues with it. This 80PRS one is not good, everyone complains about it so I end up using 'hands on' vs hands free.
> 
> Thoughts?


I think the pioneer mic is very picky where it gets placed. I had mine in the pocket of my single DIN dash kit and it worked fine, then I put a piece of plastic over the pocket and have the mic coming out of a hole I drilled in it, and it does not work the same. It hasn't moved any closer or farther away, just has plastic around the base of it. Weird that it no longer works as good. I would just suggest you move it around to different spots and see if it improves. Do you have an old alpine mic around?, if the end is the same, see if it'll work for you.


----------



## SoulMan76

rodeoclownicp said:


> ya i have figured out a few things, not having trouble with the network concept,,and bi amping will work, and i know db can be adjusted,,,the one thing i like about the idea of going passive is that the volume will increase and decrease in unison ... but how do i have perfect volume increases and decreases with out having to adjust the settings at different spots on the dial????



I have a really hard time understanding what it is you're saying in alot of your posts. Take below, What does this mean?

but how do i have perfect volume increases and decreases with out having to adjust the settings at different spots on the dial????


----------



## ramonesfan

SoulMan76 said:


> I think the pioneer mic is very picky where it gets placed. I had mine in the pocket of my single DIN dash kit and it worked fine, then I put a piece of plastic over the pocket and have the mic coming out of a hole I drilled in it, and it does not work the same. It hasn't moved any closer or farther away, just has plastic around the base of it. Weird that it no longer works as good. I would just suggest you move it around to different spots and see if it improves. Do you have an old alpine mic around?, if the end is the same, see if it'll work for you.


Thanks for the feedback.....Yes I do have the Alpine mic, sounds stupid but wasn't sure if a mic was a mic. I'll give the Alpine a shot once it gets a little warmer outside. The current mic works fine when you open a window, it immediately jumps up the volume to compensate.


----------



## SoulMan76

ramonesfan said:


> Thanks for the feedback.....Yes I do have the Alpine mic, sounds stupid but wasn't sure if a mic was a mic. I'll give the Alpine a shot once it gets a little warmer outside. The current mic works fine when you open a window, it immediately jumps up the volume to compensate.


No problem. Let me know how it works out. If it works good, I may do the same. I still plan to take my headliner down at some point, and try to wire the factory mic to work with my 80prs. I tried connecting a 2.5mm cable to the harness pins that I thought were the mics + /- , but it didn't work. Hopefully when I get my headliner down, I'll be able to figure it out, if not I'll just use a different mic, and mount it in the factory location. Good luck.


----------



## rodeoclownicp

SoulMan76 said:


> I have a really hard time understanding what it is you're saying in alot of your posts. Take below, What does this mean?
> 
> but how do i have perfect volume increases and decreases with out having to adjust the settings at different spots on the dial????


hence why i offered to supply my cell.... but if using two amps for the purpose of powering the woofers seperately from the tweet.. the volume from one amp will out pace the volume of the other, which is not a problem when running passive,,, i dont want to make adjustments for higher volume or lower, my questions is about rates, not every one can grasp that..


----------



## SoulMan76

rodeoclownicp said:


> hence why i offered to supply my cell.... but if using two amps for the purpose of powering the woofers seperately from the tweet.. the volume from one amp will out pace the volume of the other, which is not a problem when running passive,,, i dont want to make adjustments for higher volume or lower, my questions is about rates, not every one can grasp that..


Your other post never mentioned anything about dual amps, so to most it wouldn't have made much sense. I thought we were talking about the 80prs, which is what this thread is all about.

If you are going to use two amps to power your woofers and tweeters one isn't going to outpace another. As long as you set your amps gains & crossovers properly, the volume will be adjusted by the HU. The head unit will adjust the level of every speaker in your system, so one tweeter may be at -2dbs, while the other tweeter may be at -5dbs, but as long as your amps are set up properly, neither amp will outpace another. I don't know what you are referring to about rates?? Do you mean gains?

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rodeoclownicp

SoulMan76 said:


> Your other post never mentioned anything about dual amps, so to most it wouldn't have made much sense. I thought we were talking about the 80prs, which is what this thread is all about.
> 
> If you are going to use two amps to power your woofers and tweeters one isn't going to outpace another. As long as you set your amps gains & crossovers properly, the volume will be adjusted by the HU. The head unit will adjust the level of every speaker in your system, so one tweeter may be at -2dbs, while the other tweeter may be at -5dbs, but as long as your amps are set up properly, neither amp will outpace another. I don't know what you are referring to about rates?? Do you mean gains?
> 
> Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2


ya mentioned it in first post
wanted to understand the relationship of diferent amp powers, sensitivity, gain and the decibal adjustment, on this specific unit...i can not see 25rms per chan powering a tweet at the same rate as 50watts would( increasing the volume as quik as 50watts would)...from the people i have talked to over the phone about it in more depth.. i can say this...there is no difenative answer...once you go active its basicaly preference and tweaking


----------



## TheBlindMan

rodeoclownicp said:


> hence why i offered to supply my cell.... but if using two amps for the purpose of powering the woofers seperately from the tweet.. the volume from one amp will out pace the volume of the other, which is not a problem when running passive,,, i dont want to make adjustments for higher volume or lower, my questions is about rates, not every one can grasp that..



Go over this:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...bers/33149-mini-tuning-guide-active-user.html

This linnk will help you a lot also:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...d-answers-practically-all-your-questions.html

Many times we don't want to spend time reading, but it's the only way we can learn some new tricks.


----------



## rodeoclownicp

thanx


----------



## SoulMan76

rodeoclownicp said:


> ya mentioned it in first post
> wanted to understand the relationship of diferent amp powers, sensitivity, gain and the decibal adjustment, on this specific unit...i can not see 25rms per chan powering a tweet at the same rate as 50watts would( increasing the volume as quik as 50watts would)...from the people i have talked to over the phone about it in more depth.. i can say this...there is no difenative answer...once you go active its basicaly preference and tweaking


You are going to have to set the level on all of your speakers, whether they get equal wattage or not. You can either do this by ear, use the auto eq mic, or even just guess.

I ran the auto eq and the 80prs set my levels like this: -4db on my tweeters, and -2 on my mids. I liked a little more tweeter, so I lowered the -4db to around -2db. Now my tweeters are louder than they were. If my tweeters were getting more power, the 80prs might have set them to -6db instead of -4, but it would not have mattered how many watts my tweeters were getting compared to the other speakers. The idea is to get them even in the sound stage, so if they get more or less watts, they just need to be adjusted to compensate. Once they are set correctly the volume will raise them all at the same time and evenly. Is this what mean?


----------



## JimHTP

i am going a little crazy here guys. Can anybody tell me which RCA channel goes to tweeter vs mid vs sub and right/left? Like a diagram of which rca output does what in network mode. I've looked through this frustrating pdf manual so many times but I can't see it.


----------



## gckless

JimHTP said:


> i am going a little crazy here guys. Can anybody tell me which RCA channel goes to tweeter vs mid vs sub and right/left? Like a diagram of which rca output does what in network mode. I've looked through this frustrating pdf manual so many times but I can't see it.


It's on page 2 of the installation manual, I'm guessing you were looking at the operation manual? 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_InstallationManual020712.pdf


----------



## JimHTP

nevermind...its in the paper manual....fml


----------



## SoulMan76

JimHTP said:


> i am going a little crazy here guys. Can anybody tell me which RCA channel goes to tweeter vs mid vs sub and right/left? Like a diagram of which rca output does what in network mode. I've looked through this frustrating pdf manual so many times but I can't see it.


It basically goes from the top down. The top set of rca's are for the tweeter(highs), the middle set is for the mids, and the bottom set if for the sub. This is how it is in network mode., in standard mode the top rcas are for the rear speakers, and the middle is for the front speakers. The installation manual, rather than the operations manual, is a little better for the input descriptions and settings.

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SoulMan76

Guess i was a little late..lol

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## JimHTP

Lol thanks guys


----------



## Leonel

thebookfreak58 said:


> I did the update...I now have control of my iPhone 5, but still no metadata over BT...
> 
> Anyone confirm?
> 
> If it makes any difference, I did the update from my mac...


I'm not sure if I understand this, did you use a Mac without Windows or Linux to do the upgrade?


----------



## thebookfreak58

Leonel said:


> I'm not sure if I understand this, did you use a Mac without Windows or Linux to do the upgrade?


I used a Mac without Windows...


----------



## JimHTP

So without running auto TA or EQ, the prs seems to have automatically attentuated the tweeter to my right -3db , while leaving the one directly in front of me at 0. (this was with position at front left). When i switch position to front right it attentuates the driver's side which sounds right. Why? How can I separately eq right and left?


----------



## nismos14

That's what it does when you select positions.

Press and hold in the multi function button to activate l/r eq (in the eq screen).


----------



## JimHTP

I just didn't understand why it would want to attenuate the tweeter that is further away rather than the one closest?

And thanks, I found it!


----------



## spl152db

JimHTP said:


> I just didn't understand why it would want to attenuate the tweeter that is further away rather than the one closest?
> 
> And thanks, I found it!


because of the off axis performance of the tweeter. it's worse at an extreme angle than at 15~ or so.


----------



## nismos14

You sure you have the correct rca's going to the correct channel for tweeters?


----------



## spl152db

nismos14 said:


> You sure you have the correct rca's going to the correct channel for tweeters?


mine was correct and was the same way. Could also be variances between the channels of the amp.


----------



## JimHTP

pretty sure. that's kind of it. The tweeter directly in front of me is so much more prominent (with no t/a, only a few hours of attempted newbie tuning) than the one on the passenger side. When the position is set to front left or driver, the passenger tweeter is reduced, it's even easier to locate each tweeter rather than having a centered image. and when I did left and right eq a few minutes ago it definitley seemed like all my rca's were correct. 

i think I've also read that if your sound is reflecting off a surface to reach you it will be difficult to center the image. mine are about firing up 5 inches from the windshield


----------



## gIzzE

Is anyone having problems with the illumination colours changing as it warms up?

The buttons more so than the display, but that does change too. 
This is in my Merc, but thought I would ask on here as it is an issue with amber I am having. 

When I first get in the illumination is definitely amber...









However, after and hour or so it goes very, very yellow...











This is with the buttons set to custom, from memory I think it is R28 G17 B00, or something like that, it is not on any of the calm, ambient settings that do actually change.


----------



## spl152db

could be that one of the led's used to make the color, gets brighter as it warms up and the rest don't. I dunno. thats about all I got. I used white.


----------



## 07azhhr

Neither of mine have an issue like. Both are set to colors that are options. Hers is rose or pink for display and keys can't remember which. Mine is set for one of the blues for my keys and orange for the display to match the dash and waterfall. I have never noticed a change in the colors but if temps have anything to do with this issue I have to point out that we rarely even get into the 30's here. 

Try picking a listed color option and see if the same thing happens. This may not tell you the actual issue but can eliminate or confirm if it has to do with building your own color.


----------



## gIzzE

If I choose orange it also gets lighter. 

The other thing is when I go from Red, to redamber, amber, or whatever they are called they all look the same as red, only when I get to orange that it looks different, and then very different. 


Just really annoying, my ocd means I am constantly fiddling.  

When I had a 9887 in my wifes 1 series I couldn't live with the white backlight so modded it...









So find this really annoying, it only matches the rest of the dash for around 15 minutes or so, before that it is far too red and gets more and more yellow.


----------



## 07azhhr

If it changes color even on a premade option then you probably have an issue with your hu or the outside temps are causing an issue. Does this happen only in the morning after the car sits all night or every time you get in it to drive it? Do you have a warrenty on it?


----------



## gIzzE

I have not put the amp in yet, so using the internal amps, thus the unit will be getting hotter the longer it is on. 
Maybe this is causing the issue? 

If I turn it off it off after it has turned yellow and then back on it won't go back to being amber, so definitely the fact it is warming up. 

The other issue is that the Merc cluster display actually goes the other way, starts off really yellow and gets a little more amber, so it exaggerates the change on the head unit. However, all the switchgear is always the same colour so is a good reference point. 

I will call Pioneer on Monday and see what they say.


----------



## 07azhhr

I have not ever used the internal amps on either so I cannot tell you that mine would not does not do this too. But it still does not seem like it should do that. Call Pioneer for sure. Let us know what they say.


----------



## preston

Dumb question - when you have an iPod plugged in to the control cable, are you able to scroll songs on the iPod as well as on the deck ? I know in the past sometimes once the deck took control you couldn't choose songs with the iPod.

For people trying to set up a 4 way network, I notice everyone is talking about using the passive x-over in the midrange. Why would that be preferred ? In my case I set 3 way active in front and then took the woofer signal pass through to my subwoofer amp and used the amps' internal x-overs to HP the mid-woofs and LP the subs. I guess you do lose control of sub t/a at that point so I can see why people might prefer that, I guess I like to have the full active control on my midrange instead.


----------



## gIzzE

preston said:


> Dumb question - when you have an iPod plugged in to the control cable, are you able to scroll songs on the iPod as well as on the deck ? I know in the past sometimes once the deck took control you couldn't choose songs with the iPod.


Yeah you can.


----------



## spyders03

preston said:


> For people trying to set up a 4 way network, I notice everyone is talking about using the passive x-over in the midrange. Why would that be preferred ? In my case I set 3 way active in front and then took the woofer signal pass through to my subwoofer amp and used the amps' internal x-overs to HP the mid-woofs and LP the subs. I guess you do lose control of sub t/a at that point so I can see why people might prefer that, I guess I like to have the full active control on my midrange instead.


I would think that is the best way, at least in my opinion, but I am far less knowledgeable than most on here, so I wouldn't take my word for it.


----------



## spyders03

preston said:


> For people trying to set up a 4 way network, I notice everyone is talking about using the passive x-over in the midrange. Why would that be preferred ? In my case I set 3 way active in front and then took the woofer signal pass through to my subwoofer amp and used the amps' internal x-overs to HP the mid-woofs and LP the subs. I guess you do lose control of sub t/a at that point so I can see why people might prefer that, I guess I like to have the full active control on my midrange instead.


Also, one would think that most people would not have left and right subs. Not to mention, from what I have read, time alignment is a lot less sensitive in the lower frequencies, because the sound waves are much farther apart. Basically, at 40hz the sound waves might be 2/3 of a wave apart, where at 800hz they may be 14 wavelengths apart at the same given distance. Just food for thought.


----------



## 07azhhr

preston said:


> Dumb question - when you have an iPod plugged in to the control cable, are you able to scroll songs on the iPod as well as on the deck ? I know in the past sometimes once the deck took control you couldn't choose songs with the iPod.
> 
> For people trying to set up a 4 way network, I notice everyone is talking about using the passive x-over in the midrange. Why would that be preferred ? In my case I set 3 way active in front and then took the woofer signal pass through to my subwoofer amp and used the amps' internal x-overs to HP the mid-woofs and LP the subs. I guess you do lose control of sub t/a at that point so I can see why people might prefer that, I guess I like to have the full active control on my midrange instead.


 
The suggestion for use of passives and shared channels is, for me anyways, based on driver locations. The two drivers that are next to each other, like in my case my midranges and tweets being in the pillars together, would be where I would choose to run passives and share a channel if I did not have alternate extra ta channels. This also applies to drivers that may be in separate locations but still are the same distance from your head.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

I had to get rif of my 80prs.
F**king beep was enough to drive be silly.

Then to add, the stupid menu system was just over the line for me. 
Sure it sounds fantastic but got dam! Just to do a simple sub volume change you gotta to a magic trick! The remote is about useless too.

But yea.. Sounds awesome....


----------



## spyders03

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> I had to get rif of my 80prs.
> F**king beep was enough to drive be silly.
> 
> Then to add, the stupid menu system was just over the line for me.
> Sure it sounds fantastic but got dam! Just to do a simple sub volume change you gotta to a magic trick! The remote is about useless too.
> 
> But yea.. Sounds awesome....


I do wish you could turn the beep off, and that I could get to the menu from the remote, but I thought the menu is pretty straight forward and easy to use. Yeah there is a lot of options, but isn't that what we paid for?


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

spyders03 said:


> I do wish you could turn the beep off, and that I could get to the menu from the remote, but I thought the menu is pretty straight forward and easy to use. Yeah there is a lot of options, but isn't that what we paid for?


Ive had almost every major high end deck since 1998.
Yea theres a few that were just ridiculous, One was the Eclipse MK11. 
I can think Of a Kenwood EQ that was up there in the WTF were they thinking department.
I can tell you this deck is a headache to say the least and number one in the totally not user friendly department
I didnt pay for a ridiculous menu so please dont speak for me.

I think Alpine got it right with there menus. 
If they come out with a new deck, Ill be getting it. And Im sure it will be 
top dog. But.... You never know, these days companies are going to the cheap side and offering bling rather than SQ. 

I did pay for allot of great features but none of them have to require
at least 2 hours of studying the thick book it comes with.
Then after you read the book you still need lots of time, we are talkings days, weeks, to get use to the way this deck gets to the features we all paid top dollar for.

You mean to tell me that its ok to have to go through an entire friggin menu just to do one simple volume up/down on the sub?
Man I could do that on the remote, lick a dee split, on the 9887.

Also, why did they name the menus like that?
Why couldnt they name them Highpass, Bandpass, Lowpass or 
how about something along those lines instead of the stupid s**t they
got on the xovers? And to add to that everything is azz backwards!

The Bluetooth doesnt connect automatically. I had to always connect manually anytime I used my GS2. The Kenwood this unit is marketed against would auto connect no problem.

I also hated the colors on this unit. They look like cheap porn colors.
And good luck seeing the screen in daylight. I had to stick with one bright green color cause it was the best in daylight.

Lets also talk about how FM works. OMG are you kidding me?
I had to read the book it came with, then reread then just try over and
to get the FM stations right. I mean, it certainly seems that they tried the best they could to make this unit as difficult as possible.

DOnt even think about changing a radio station with this unit while driving.

Lets also mention that playing music on USB is stupid. It never starts off where you left. You gotta start all over from the top. That means going through hundreds if not thousands of songs! 
Other decks would go back from where you left off. Not this unit.

Now, if you want SQ.. Go for it. But this is in no way a daily driver deck.
I can rave all day about the SQ on this deck. I havent heard anything sound this good except the old school SOny ES decks. But you wont get SQ out the box. You will, I repeat will have to spend time with it and play with it.
This is not a daily driver unit. The lust and fantasy this unit projects just by looking at its features makes people go out and get it but people arent ready for the s**t they gotta do to get that fullfillment they want and paid for.

When you factor in the whole cluster F**k of menus and the way its setup, Nah man.... Ill sacrifice some SQ for ease of use a safety while driving any day.

The gotdam beep EASILY takes away at least 70% of the total cool factor.
What ever happened to simple?
An all time great , the 7909....... WTH is wrong with making another one?
At least make aunit that has simple menus and no beeps.
Allow easy one step motions from the remote or deck for the most used features like sub volume and FM stations.

O well... I could care less now cause I sold mine...
Not even thinkin bout gettin another Pioneer.

Just sayin


----------



## Bayboy




----------



## spl152db

Yup you need a Sony. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 07azhhr

I find the remote to be way easier myself. I do hate that I can not get to the menu from the remote...that pat sucks. 

But hmmmmm hard to work the FM . Via the remote all you have to do is hit the forward or reverse button to go to the next numerical value if in manual search or for it to search for the next station if in auto. Hit the up or down button and it toggles thru the presets. What is so hard about that? 

The bass adjustment can take a few seconds if you are in a different menu but if that is the only thing you change while driving then leave it there and hit the MC 3 times and you are in. This is more then most but not all that bad imo. My factory hu was no better since it would revert back to treble and I would have to access that menu with one button then toggle thru treble and mid to get to the bass with another then use a different button to adjust the bass. No however I never find the need to adjust the bass anymore so it is actually irrelevant to me at this point.


----------



## Bayboy

The USB w/ flash drive works fine for me. No memory problems at all.

Settings in the menu, I myself keep forgetting that EQ presets are pretty easy to switch. I haven't even saved a 2nd custom yet.

Subwoofer adjustments, hmmmm a bit cumbersome while driving, but I thought the majority used the amp's sub remote gain.


----------



## 07azhhr

Not everyone uses or even has a remote sub level controller . Heck I got told I did not want one of those when I made my first post lol. I do like them myself but I no longer find the need for them in either car now that I have this HU in both. I have always used them in every system in the past but I don't reach for the bass anymore for some reason.


----------



## Bayboy

Not that I would expect them to, but if a person constantly had a need to adjust sub levels I would think they would target a amp with that feature from the start. 

I use mines a bit since my lady doesn't like the low end that I like. So the only way I can enjoy my system when she is riding with me is to turn the subs way down or off. Much simpler to turn a dial.


----------



## Bayboy

spl152db said:


> the subwoofer should be something that is set. I would only adjust it when either I was going bass heavy for a whole trip or showing off.


Oh lawdamercy.... not this again. An adjustment is an adjustment and there is no rule, law, or absolute on that. Let's not go there please.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

07azhhr said:


> I find the remote to be way easier myself. I do hate that I can not get to the menu from the remote...that pat sucks.
> 
> But hmmmmm hard to work the FM . Via the remote all you have to do is hit the forward or reverse button to go to the next numerical value if in manual search or for it to search for the next station if in auto. Hit the up or down button and it toggles thru the presets. What is so hard about that?
> 
> The bass adjustment can take a few seconds if you are in a different menu but if that is the only thing you change while driving then leave it there and hit the MC 3 times and you are in. This is more then most but not all that bad imo. My factory hu was no better since it would revert back to treble and I would have to access that menu with one button then toggle thru treble and mid to get to the bass with another then use a different button to adjust the bass. No however I never find the need to adjust the bass anymore so it is actually irrelevant to me at this point.



Yea presets are easy to goto.. Try going to a non preset station. Also try presetting stations and trying to guess how to do it....
ALso the bass volume should be one button away.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

Bayboy said:


> The USB w/ flash drive works fine for me. No memory problems at all.
> 
> Settings in the menu, I myself keep forgetting that EQ presets are pretty easy to switch. I haven't even saved a 2nd custom yet.
> 
> Subwoofer adjustments, hmmmm a bit cumbersome while driving, but I thought the majority used the amp's sub remote gain.


Sub amp remote gain?
WTH? LOL
Buddy thats 90's technology.

And yea the USB problem with this unit is that when you play a song, hit the back button to play another song after it, it goes back to the top of the list making you have to search over the entire list again.
It doesnt go back where you left off.
Another person said the same thing.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

spl152db said:


> Yup you need a Sony.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2



Yea ok...



I think my comments went straight over your head.

NO I dont want a SONY.
Pioneer should have made this unit easier to use.


----------



## spl152db

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> Yea ok...
> 
> 
> 
> I think my comments went straight over your head.
> 
> NO I dont want a SONY.
> Pioneer should have made this unit easier to use.


just cause you named yourself oldschool and have a boombox doesn't mean your comments are the highest level of regard and went over my head. 

basically this unit requires setup. that much was known going into it. at least it should have been. most settings are set and forget and the bass adjustment for me was always press->press->press->up and down which can all be done from the remote, but thats ok cause you sold it already. 

as far as the fm, I hate the way they do the presets but it's how it is. and press and hold to get to next station is pretty much a standard feature of all aftermarket decks. if you press till it beeps and let go it, it stops at the next station. not really rocket science. 

I don't know if you actually had it because you talk about a book that came with it... it comes with a cd but i'm assuming you just mean the manual

my bluetooth always connected automatically. your phone just sucks. its a samsung. they generally don't like it when trying to connect to something with a newer tech than it. makes it feel sad  in all seriousness my roommates infuse won't auto connect either. it's a samsung issue. 

the white color was always best for me, but thats my opinion. 

this design was originally pioneers about 10 years ago and kenwood copied them. its ok though. you're too "oldschool" right? 

who gives a crap what they named it? it makes sense. its not hard to understand. and you can't call it bandpass, because it didn't encompass all the frequencies. 

if it took you weeks to get used to and figure out how to use this deck, maybe you DO need a sony...


----------



## Bayboy

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> Sub amp remote gain?
> WTH? LOL
> Buddy thats 90's technology.
> 
> And yea the USB problem with this unit is that when you play a song, hit the back button to play another song after it, it goes back to the top of the list making you have to search over the entire list again.
> It doesnt go back where you left off.
> Anothe person said the same thing.



Gee.... 90's technology but almost all current amps come with that option.  Not a good point there bud. As far as the USB, it works perfectly fine with mines. I think you may be hitting the wrong button. Seriously, if it's not for you, cool but I see no reason to crap on it. Simply spend your money elsewhere. They won't miss you!


----------



## nismos14

CZ702 > 80PRS.

/THREAD.


----------



## rton20s

nismos14 said:


> CZ702 > 80PRS.
> 
> /THREAD.


And it just so happens you know of one for sale?


----------



## rton20s

Also... sounds to me like "Old School" bought the wrong head unit to begin with. Does the 80PRS have drawbacks? Absolutely. Could they have made some very simple adjustments to make it much more user friendly? Of course. Does this negate the fact that it is probably the best "budget" sound quality solution available today? Not even close. 

Buy the right tool for the right job. It's like being pissed that the brand new screwdriver you bought does a lousy job of driving nails.


----------



## nismos14

rton20s said:


> And it just so happens you know of one for sale?


Perhaps.......................


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

spl152db said:


> just cause you named yourself oldschool and have a boombox doesn't mean your comments are the highest level of regard and went over my head.
> 
> basically this unit requires setup. that much was known going into it. at least it should have been. most settings are set and forget and the bass adjustment for me was always press->press->press->up and down which can all be done from the remote, but thats ok cause you sold it already.
> 
> as far as the fm, I hate the way they do the presets but it's how it is. and press and hold to get to next station is pretty much a standard feature of all aftermarket decks. if you press till it beeps and let go it, it stops at the next station. not really rocket science.
> 
> I don't know if you actually had it because you talk about a book that came with it... it comes with a cd but i'm assuming you just mean the manual
> 
> my bluetooth always connected automatically. your phone just sucks. its a samsung. they generally don't like it when trying to connect to something with a newer tech than it. makes it feel sad  in all seriousness my roommates infuse won't auto connect either. it's a samsung issue.
> 
> the white color was always best for me, but thats my opinion.
> 
> this design was originally pioneers about 10 years ago and kenwood copied them. its ok though. you're too "oldschool" right?
> 
> who gives a crap what they named it? it makes sense. its not hard to understand. and you can't call it bandpass, because it didn't encompass all the frequencies.
> 
> if it took you weeks to get used to and figure out how to use this deck, maybe you DO need a sony...



Hey dude. No need to be a ass.
I didnt say my opinion was king.
You also dont need to be insulting my background.
I was an installer for a long time. I did have allot of gear.
SO F***king sue me for not liking this unit. I did say its a awesome SQ unit.
SOrry im not jumping on the bandwagon with this unit. But , Im not liking this deck.
Im not sacrificing ease of use for minimal SQ upgrades.

The cd it comes with is in deed a book. Well, its a cd but reading through it is like reading a book. Its not a small manual.
Your description of maneuvering through the menus is not at all like it is in real life. Many say its re-donku-lous....... Some think its ok. Whatever.
But comparing this deck to something in its price or class and its easy to see after playing with it that they just made it way to hard to deal with.
But again, whatever... I could care less like I said. I sold it.

And also thanks for ****ting on all Samsungs, even though they are among the best phones, you think, Im guessing, that your opinion is king? You sure do have that attitude. Noone cares if you got a iphone or a cheapo nokia. As long as it works with this decks blue tooth great.
But, Ive used the same phone on other decks and had no problems with there blue tooth. It aint the phone. I said that before. but I think your ego is protruding a bit to far...

As for the way the xover menu is , yea it is stupid and named inappropriately. They labeled the menus Network 1 2 and 3. Within those menus there are submenus and there is hidden button presses you gotta do to change the xover setting and those button presses are ass backword from every other radio I ever used. Its not straightforward at all. Rather confusing actually. Took a month to get used to it and then I just said to hell with this cause you cant drive and easily play with it which I like to do on a deck. Watching vids of this deck makes it look kinda simple goin through the menus but getting your hands on it, its like, WTF? And to make it worse, you gotta have the manual either on your phone or a latop while reading it and playing on the deck cause its a file not a real paper manual. 
Next thing I know Ill be called stupid or something for not liking the deck?

Man what is it with the guys in this forum? Attitude for days! 
Geez!


----------



## spl152db

Really wasn't trying to have attitude but I can crap on Samsung's if I want to. If they don't work right with the pioneer then its gotta be them because I've had zero issues with my Motorola's and htcs. Maybe you had a bad deck too. Dunno. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

Bayboy said:


> Gee.... 90's technology but almost all current amps come with that option.  Not a good point there bud. As far as the USB, it works perfectly fine with mines. I think you may be hitting the wrong button. Seriously, if it's not for you, cool but I see no reason to crap on it. Simply spend your money elsewhere. They won't miss you!


My point is that you have a unit with a sub volume control ON IT. But you use a remote from the amp?


This right here tells me the deck is not user friendly cause you gotta resort to using the amp remote due t the deck being so difficult to get through the menus.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

rton20s said:


> Also... sounds to me like "Old School" bought the wrong head unit to begin with. Does the 80PRS have drawbacks? Absolutely. Could they have made some very simple adjustments to make it much more user friendly? Of course. Does this negate the fact that it is probably the best "budget" sound quality solution available today? Not even close.
> 
> Buy the right tool for the right job. It's like being pissed that the brand new screwdriver you bought does a lousy job of driving nails.



The right tool for the right job?
This is suppose to be THE best unit besides the Pioneer Stage 4.
I think this tool, you call it should not only be user friendly but also have good SQ. 

If I cant use the deck as it is meant, wtf do I do with it?
Sell it! And I did.


The better analogy would be that your screw driver is not user friendly, Although does a great job, you gota do all kinds **** to get it to perform to its optimum.
Some people DONT like using difficult things or having to go through allot of trouble to get something done.

Have you ever gone through McDonalds?

Well, if you did then you are saying there drive thru window is not the right tool for someone who wants to go through allot of trouble to get fast food :worried:


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

spl152db said:


> Really wasn't trying to have attitude but I can crap on Samsung's if I want to. If they don't work right with the pioneer then its gotta be them because I've had zero issues with my Motorola's and htcs. Maybe you had a bad deck too. Dunno.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Ok well

Im just saying.
I tried that nice Kenwood X996. That unit worked great with the GS2.
So, no i don think my phone is the issue. 
But whatever. If that makes u feel better than it was my phone.


----------



## The Performer

Is this discussion really about using bluetooth audio? Y'all do know that's about the worst transfer of audio aside from a cassette tape you can get right? Maybe im confused...


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

The Performer said:


> Is this discussion really about using bluetooth audio? Y'all do know that's about the worst transfer of audio aside from a cassette tape you can get right? Maybe im confused...


I used bluetooth for simple stuff like talk radio from shoutcast or from pandora.
Things I couldnt get from regular old FM.


----------



## spyders03

:snacks:


----------



## Bayboy

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> My point is that you have a unit with a sub volume control ON IT. But you use a remote from the amp?
> 
> 
> This right here tells me the deck is not user friendly cause you gotta resort to using the amp remote due t the deck being so difficult to get through the menus.




Not necessarily. I'd rather use the remote to keep wear & tear down on the faceplate. Usually there's two adjustments that are made with the HU, that's EQ & sub level which both are rather rare & dependent on genre. However, the remote gain is much more expendable than a faceplate.


----------



## Nismo

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> Ive had almost every major high end deck since 1998.
> Yea theres a few that were just ridiculous, One was the Eclipse MK11.
> I can think Of a Kenwood EQ that was up there in the WTF were they thinking department.
> I can tell you this deck is a headache to say the least and number one in the totally not user friendly department
> I didnt pay for a ridiculous menu so please dont speak for me.
> 
> I think Alpine got it right with there menus.
> If they come out with a new deck, Ill be getting it. And Im sure it will be
> top dog. But.... You never know, these days companies are going to the cheap side and offering bling rather than SQ.
> 
> I did pay for allot of great features but none of them have to require
> at least 2 hours of studying the thick book it comes with.
> Then after you read the book you still need lots of time, we are talkings days, weeks, to get use to the way this deck gets to the features we all paid top dollar for.
> 
> You mean to tell me that its ok to have to go through an entire friggin menu just to do one simple volume up/down on the sub?
> Man I could do that on the remote, lick a dee split, on the 9887.
> 
> Also, why did they name the menus like that?
> Why couldnt they name them Highpass, Bandpass, Lowpass or
> how about something along those lines instead of the stupid s**t they
> got on the xovers? And to add to that everything is azz backwards!
> 
> The Bluetooth doesnt connect automatically. I had to always connect manually anytime I used my GS2. The Kenwood this unit is marketed against would auto connect no problem.
> 
> I also hated the colors on this unit. They look like cheap porn colors.
> And good luck seeing the screen in daylight. I had to stick with one bright green color cause it was the best in daylight.
> 
> Lets also talk about how FM works. OMG are you kidding me?
> I had to read the book it came with, then reread then just try over and
> to get the FM stations right. I mean, it certainly seems that they tried the best they could to make this unit as difficult as possible.
> 
> DOnt even think about changing a radio station with this unit while driving.
> 
> Lets also mention that playing music on USB is stupid. It never starts off where you left. You gotta start all over from the top. That means going through hundreds if not thousands of songs!
> Other decks would go back from where you left off. Not this unit.
> 
> Now, if you want SQ.. Go for it. But this is in no way a daily driver deck.
> I can rave all day about the SQ on this deck. I havent heard anything sound this good except the old school SOny ES decks. But you wont get SQ out the box. You will, I repeat will have to spend time with it and play with it.
> This is not a daily driver unit. The lust and fantasy this unit projects just by looking at its features makes people go out and get it but people arent ready for the s**t they gotta do to get that fullfillment they want and paid for.
> 
> When you factor in the whole cluster F**k of menus and the way its setup, Nah man.... Ill sacrifice some SQ for ease of use a safety while driving any day.
> 
> The gotdam beep EASILY takes away at least 70% of the total cool factor.
> What ever happened to simple?
> An all time great , the 7909....... WTH is wrong with making another one?
> At least make aunit that has simple menus and no beeps.
> Allow easy one step motions from the remote or deck for the most used features like sub volume and FM stations.
> 
> O well... I could care less now cause I sold mine...
> Not even thinkin bout gettin another Pioneer.
> 
> Just sayin


I haven't opened the book yet on mine, but I've managed to connect my phone (iPhone 4S connects automatically), change the sub xover settings, disable the display, and quite a few other things.

From what I recall, mine starts on the same song it left on...not the beginning. I mostly use Pandora, so I'm not 100% on that... FM could be a bit improved, but again, I mostly listen to Pandora or USB.

It's been quite easy for me to use, though the menus are a bit funky.

I'm glad I found my for $280 new on Crutchfield, and my brother intends to buy one as well.

Eric


----------



## thomasluke

Nismo said:


> I haven't opened the book yet on mine, but I've managed to connect my phone (iPhone 4S connects automatically), change the sub xover settings, disable the display, and quite a few other things.
> 
> From what I recall, mine starts on the same song it left on...not the beginning. I mostly use Pandora, so I'm not 100% on that... FM could be a bit improved, but again, I mostly listen to Pandora or USB.
> 
> It's been quite easy for me to use, though the menus are a bit funky.
> 
> I'm glad I found my for $280 new on Crutchfield, and my brother intends to buy one as well.
> 
> Eric


Same here. The bluetooth is not as good as the keenwood x995 though. That hu has the best bluetooth I've ever used period. It even goes through the dsp and the caller can be nice and centered just like the music.
The kenwood falls very short in terms of features and crossovers when compared to the Pioneer. My P80 also starts on the song it left off on wherever in the song it was.
The folders however do go back to the top but so does every other hu that I have used.
That guy's saying the P80 is complicated...He must have never used a laptop or any other processor that has more power over the sound.
Now those can really take some time to get right. The P80 as far processors go is pretty damn simple and strait forward. The sub volume though can be very simple. Just leave it on network 2 and it's two clicks away. Same as any other hu. Press once to enter the menu and again to select the sub level.
My Alpine 9853 was more of a pain in the ass for me.


----------



## tnbubba

menus's suck azz agreed.. fm is a pita agreed.. i just filp the knob..
but it took about a week to get use to controls. and presto once you dial the unit in most anything you want to change is just one or two clicks away..songs go back to where u left off.. but menu folder stats at beginning.. but so did all my kenwoods and alpines on usb..soo?? i wish they would make a p9(?) 4way $500 version.. that sounds this good.


----------



## thebookfreak58

Any input on my iOS6/iPhone 5 query?


----------



## Serieus

i just got my 80prs yesterday, girlfriend bought it for me since my old kenwood (x995) had a faceplate issue where the display would reset basically any time you touched it. didn't matter if you pressed it hard or soft, even just changing the volume would reset it.

i feel like the cheap feel has been overdone by a lot of people that either a.) were expecting it to feel like a p99 or b.) don't know how to have an opinion of their own.

the 80prs, so far, feels much more solid than the x995 did, and the x995 originally retailed at around the same price if i remember right. the buttons feel more solid, the faceplate is much more stable when you touch it versus the kenwood, and the volume knob is tighter and feels better to use.

could it feel better? certainly, but in the price point that it's in, it's about as good as it gets from my experience. it DEFINITELY feels better than the clarion cz series, i hate those things. i will say that it doesn't feel as sturdy as the alpine 9887, and i haven't used any of the new alpines, but they certainly don't appear to have the same build quality as the 9887 and older alpines.

as far as everything else, i really like it; the ipod interaction is faster than the x995 and it scrolls much easier. the remote is much better, with the x995 i had to press buttons sometimes 4 or 5 times to get it to register, even with the remote right next to the unit. and of course, the sound quality is great as everyone already knows by now. it seems more laid back on the upper end than the x995 to me, my system definitely has a whole lot less sibilance than it did. i know most of you use this thing in network mode, but i thought i should add that in standard mode, it seems that the only options for slope on the high pass for the front stage is 6 and 12db/octave, which seemed weird since i believe all of them should be up to 24db/octave in network mode.

it seems like another main complaint is the menu system, but i can say without a doubt that it makes much more sense than the kenwood menu system. i won't go into too much detail since you can find videos of the menus and such on youtube, but the menus are pretty simple. the only thing that's kind of weird to me is that there's a different menu option for, for example, selecting an eq curve and then another one for modifying that curve. the crossover options are even more strange since there's one to select the filter you want, then select the slope you want, then select the frequency you want, but all in all, i think it's alright.

another i wanted to add is that the output voltage is a significant boost over the x995, *ESPECIALLY* with the source level adjuster raised. i can't express this enough. even with the kenwood at 35/35, the volume was much lower with the same gain settings as the 80prs. i didn't do any measuring with a dmm, but it seems like around 45 is about the same volume as the kenwood at 35/35. and, the pioneer definitely sounds a LOT more clean and composed at 45 versus the kenwood at 35/35.

lastly, it's kind of odd, but my stage is pulled left. it use to be centered fairly well in the middle of the dash with the kenwood, but now it's right in front of me. i didn't listen enough to notice before i tried out the auto eq/auto ta, but even with both disabled and no position selected, it's still pulled left. i've since fixed it, but i wasn't using any ta or eq on the kenwood and everything else stayed the same so i'm curious why it's centered to the left.

i'm not running active with it yet, components are still ran passive so the unit is just in standard mode. i thought about getting a cheap 8 gauge wiring kit since i have a small sub amp to put in the car and going active finally yesterday, but i'm just going to wait and do a single run of 4 gauge to the rear with a distribution block for the 2 amps later when funds are available. 

just thought i'd add in my 2 cents, since everyone seems so caught up on it feeling really cheap, when in all actuality the only units that i think might hold a candle to the feel of the pioneer is the alpines, but they don't really look like it. and seriously, i'll take the ugly wing on the volume knob over the enormous source button. that's just ridiculous.

i guess i should add one more thing. mine is in my 1998 honda civic sedan, and the faceplate only folds down enough to BARELY put in and remove cd's. like, when it ejects, the cd's slice across the top of the faceplate. it sits quite a bit more recessed than the kenwood and a whole lot more recessed than my old cz500. it's not an issue, but it's very close to being one.


----------



## SoulMan76

Good luck with yours, I've had mine since last sept, and I love my 80prs. The dial and lever are a little cheap feeling IMO, but it really doesn't bother me, neither does the barely audible beep that seems to drive some people crazy. Its few bad features are eclipsed by all it does so well, and for 260$ on sale, nothing comes close.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

Serieus said:


> i just got my 80prs yesterday, girlfriend bought it for me since my old kenwood (x995) had a faceplate issue where the display would reset basically any time you touched it. didn't matter if you pressed it hard or soft, even just changing the volume would reset it.
> 
> i feel like the cheap feel has been overdone by a lot of people that either a.) were expecting it to feel like a p99 or b.) don't know how to have an opinion of their own.
> 
> the 80prs, so far, feels much more solid than the x995 did, and the x995 originally retailed at around the same price if i remember right. the buttons feel more solid, the faceplate is much more stable when you touch it versus the kenwood, and the volume knob is tighter and feels better to use.
> 
> could it feel better? certainly, but in the price point that it's in, it's about as good as it gets from my experience. it DEFINITELY feels better than the clarion cz series, i hate those things. i will say that it doesn't feel as sturdy as the alpine 9887, and i haven't used any of the new alpines, but they certainly don't appear to have the same build quality as the 9887 and older alpines.
> 
> as far as everything else, i really like it; the ipod interaction is faster than the x995 and it scrolls much easier. the remote is much better, with the x995 i had to press buttons sometimes 4 or 5 times to get it to register, even with the remote right next to the unit. and of course, the sound quality is great as everyone already knows by now. it seems more laid back on the upper end than the x995 to me, my system definitely has a whole lot less sibilance than it did. i know most of you use this thing in network mode, but i thought i should add that in standard mode, it seems that the only options for slope on the high pass for the front stage is 6 and 12db/octave, which seemed weird since i believe all of them should be up to 24db/octave in network mode.
> 
> it seems like another main complaint is the menu system, but i can say without a doubt that it makes much more sense than the kenwood menu system. i won't go into too much detail since you can find videos of the menus and such on youtube, but the menus are pretty simple. the only thing that's kind of weird to me is that there's a different menu option for, for example, selecting an eq curve and then another one for modifying that curve. the crossover options are even more strange since there's one to select the filter you want, then select the slope you want, then select the frequency you want, but all in all, i think it's alright.
> 
> another i wanted to add is that the output voltage is a significant boost over the x995, *ESPECIALLY* with the source level adjuster raised. i can't express this enough. even with the kenwood at 35/35, the volume was much lower with the same gain settings as the 80prs. i didn't do any measuring with a dmm, but it seems like around 45 is about the same volume as the kenwood at 35/35. and, the pioneer definitely sounds a LOT more clean and composed at 45 versus the kenwood at 35/35.
> 
> lastly, it's kind of odd, but my stage is pulled left. it use to be centered fairly well in the middle of the dash with the kenwood, but now it's right in front of me. i didn't listen enough to notice before i tried out the auto eq/auto ta, but even with both disabled and no position selected, it's still pulled left. i've since fixed it, but i wasn't using any ta or eq on the kenwood and everything else stayed the same so i'm curious why it's centered to the left.
> 
> i'm not running active with it yet, components are still ran passive so the unit is just in standard mode. i thought about getting a cheap 8 gauge wiring kit since i have a small sub amp to put in the car and going active finally yesterday, but i'm just going to wait and do a single run of 4 gauge to the rear with a distribution block for the 2 amps later when funds are available.
> 
> just thought i'd add in my 2 cents, since everyone seems so caught up on it feeling really cheap, when in all actuality the only units that i think might hold a candle to the feel of the pioneer is the alpines, but they don't really look like it. and seriously, i'll take the ugly wing on the volume knob over the enormous source button. that's just ridiculous.
> 
> i guess i should add one more thing. mine is in my 1998 honda civic sedan, and the faceplate only folds down enough to BARELY put in and remove cd's. like, when it ejects, the cd's slice across the top of the faceplate. it sits quite a bit more recessed than the kenwood and a whole lot more recessed than my old cz500. it's not an issue, but it's very close to being one.


If you havent fixed the imaging problem, go into the xover settings and you might find that the volume can be changed on each output.
I had mine on a 3 way setup and noticed for some unknown reason that the unit would decrease volume on one tweeter or one mid and make the system sound lopsided. I dont know if this helps but It might. Even fif you use the unit in basic mode it may still be lowering volume on one channel. So check that out. Also check to see if all speakers are in phase.


----------



## ZAKOH

I have a question about the "position" setting. When you change the "position" from left/right, we know that a new set of time alignment settings is loaded. What about AutoEQ? Is the head unit smart enough to reverse its autoeq settings when position is changed?


----------



## Serieus

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> If you havent fixed the imaging problem, go into the xover settings and you might find that the volume can be changed on each output.
> I had mine on a 3 way setup and noticed for some unknown reason that the unit would decrease volume on one tweeter or one mid and make the system sound lopsided. I dont know if this helps but It might. Even fif you use the unit in basic mode it may still be lowering volume on one channel. So check that out. Also check to see if all speakers are in phase.


thanks for that -- i did check that after you mentioned it today, and the volume wasn't changed on any of the channels. i did get it centered again, but it was a bit odd that it was off. i think my seat position just got changed or something, but it's all good now! 

to zakoh, i don't believe so, but i haven't messed with it enough to figure that one out yet. i have no use for changing the position anyway so it doesn't really matter to me 

to soulman76, i agree with the lever feeling a bit cheap, but i don't mind the volume knob at all. i guess the button on the volume knob doesn't feel that great, but again, it's still a whole lot better than the x995's volume knob button :laugh: and you're right, at the price point, it just demolishes everything else in the priceerformance ratio.


----------



## pablo7

Does anybody know if raising the source level ajustment will make the signal clip sooner than leaving it flat?


----------



## sqnut

ZAKOH said:


> I have a question about the "position" setting. When you change the "position" from left/right, we know that a new set of time alignment settings is loaded. What about AutoEQ? Is the head unit smart enough to reverse its autoeq settings when position is changed?


When you flip position L/R, only the TA settings are flipped. The eq settings remain unchanged. The eq though gives you two manual settings. Set one for each side. Now when you want to flip for the other side, flip position selector for L/R and eq from setting 1 to setting 2.


----------



## spl152db

pablo7 said:


> Does anybody know if raising the source level ajustment will make the signal clip sooner than leaving it flat?


it shouldn't clip any "sooner" such as with a lower volume. it will allow it to clip though on tracks of music that are at 0db and you've pushed the sla past it.


----------



## 07azhhr

sqnut said:


> When you flip position L/R, only the TA settings are flipped. The eq settings remain unchanged. The eq though gives you two manual settings. Set one for each side. Now when you want to flip for the other side, flip position selector for L/R and eq from setting 1 to setting 2.


 
It also does not flip the levels so you will still have that as an issue as well. As for the EQ idea, while it will work you have to keep in mind the custom 2 is carried over to all sources while custom 1 is specific to each source. I think Pioneer needs to rethink this aspect of this hu. It just doesn't make sense to not flip all items involved in tuning for each position.


----------



## sqnut

^^ True. I wish changing positions flipped everything. Perhaps the reason it doesn't is because _the _ setting from the far side will be slightly different from an exact flip of the near side settings.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

I got my DEH-80PRS yesterday and it has the same crack in the face others have complained about. It is a hairline crack from the right side of the mic jack toward the upper right corner. It almost looks like when the pushed the mic into the face cover it hairline cracked it. Not very noticeable, but I figured they would have fixed this by now.


----------



## ou812

fahrfrompuken said:


> I got my DEH-80PRS yesterday and it has the same crack in the face others have complained about. It is a hairline crack from the right side of the mic jack toward the upper right corner. It almost looks like when the pushed the mic into the face cover it hairline cracked it. Not very noticeable, but I figured they would have fixed this by now.


I read about a lot of people having this issue but I got one without the crack. Hit or miss?


----------



## Angrywhopper

I have it too.. Glad Im not the only one!


----------



## ou812

Not sure if this has come up but it has been on my mind for a while. Has anyone noticed some bizzarre differences in the voltage number that's displayed on the face? One day I start my truck and it's at 14.2 the next day 12.0 and so on. It does state in the manual that it's not meant to be accurate I believe.


----------



## Serieus

i have the crack too.

the voltage display seems okay to me, it at least makes some logical sense. always shows 13.8-14.4 while car is running and about 12 when car's off. i don't trust it to be very accurate but it's at least consistent for me!


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

Angrywhopper said:


> I have it too.. Glad Im not the only one!


Wait.. So youre saying you are happy others have a defective unit?


Maybe Its best you were the only one..


----------



## rton20s

The voltmeter seems pretty accurate to me. I've got a slipping belt and I'll see the voltage drop on the head unit even before I start to get the belt squeak.


----------



## Angrywhopper

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> Wait.. So youre saying you are happy others have a defective unit?
> 
> 
> Maybe Its best you were the only one..


No. Don't take things out of context. I'm glad I didn't break it or got a defective unit. I'd take a design flaw over any of those.


----------



## Ghost_Eyes

Hey guys my prs just arrived today in the mail and I'm wondering why when I get into my car it doesn't play automatically thru Bluetooth I have an iPhone 4s
Even when I plug it in thru the USB it doesn't automatically switch over to that input like my 3 other pioneer head units?!?

Any ideas? Or is this just lacking in this area

Cheers


----------



## dietDrThunder

Mine doesn't auto-source.


----------



## spyders03

Ghost_Eyes said:


> Hey guys my prs just arrived today in the mail and I'm wondering why when I get into my car it doesn't play automatically thru Bluetooth I have an iPhone 4s
> Even when I plug it in thru the USB it doesn't automatically switch over to that input like my 3 other pioneer head units?!?
> 
> Any ideas? Or is this just lacking in this area
> 
> Cheers


Pretty easy fix,

1. Go into the settings into your IPhone 4s, and see what OS it is running
2. If it starts with IOS followed by a number, throw it out of the window going exactly 88mph
3. Go to your local phone store and buy any current Android device.
4. Connect and enjoy!

P.S. The head unit will not auto source to an Android phone either

But really, I think this is just something with the firmware, My Galaxy S3 will auto-connect, but the head unit will not change sources depending on what my phone is doing, (except of course for phone calls and the like)


----------



## Ghost_Eyes

Interesting
This is my first Bluetooth device my mate had the mix track one (can't think of the code off the top of my head) but his ATP connects when he jumps in the car and my older pioneer headunit ( the one in the same style as this without Bluetooth) auto plays when I plug my phone In? So yeah naturally I'd expect it to..


----------



## xt577

Has anyone tested the signal from their 80prs with an oscilloscope to see if/where it clips?


----------



## indytrucks

xt577 said:


> Has anyone tested the signal from their 80prs with an oscilloscope to see if/where it clips?


I was wondering this too.


----------



## spyders03

Kind of, mine has 1% thd at 58 on the rear channel, 59 on the sub channel, and none way the front channel


----------



## xt577

spyders03 said:


> Kind of, mine has 1% thd at 58 on the rear channel, 59 on the sub channel, and none way the front channel


what test tones did you use?


----------



## jcpahman77

My 80PRS is on its way from Amazon right now. Great price and great shipping, ordered it last night and it should be here Wednesday. I'm planning on running it in network mode with all external amplifiers and DIY speakers. I'm really hoping this deck will sound as good as everyone says it will.


----------



## spyders03

40hz for the sub channel and 1khz for the front 2 channels.


----------



## spyders03

One question I do have is on the bottom of the deck is 2 switches, one for network.mode, and not quite sure about the other one. What is it for and when and how should you use it? The directions said something about amps and stuff, but was quite confusing. anyone?


----------



## jcpahman77

spyders03 said:


> One question I do have is on the bottom of the deck is 2 switches, one for network.mode, and not quite sure about the other one. What is it for and when and how should you use it? The directions said something about amps and stuff, but was quite confusing. anyone?


My understanding is the other switch changes the RCA input on the back of the deck between a high level and low level input. I'm not entirely sure why you'd want to input a high level input into the deck, but it offers the capability all the same.


----------



## xt577

spyders03 said:


> Kind of, mine has 1% thd at 58 on the rear channel, 59 on the sub channel, and none way the front channel


I assume this means the signal first clipped at 58 for the rear, 59 for the sub & no clipping for the front?
(sorry for the noob question)


----------



## xt577

jcpahman77 said:


> My understanding is the other switch changes the RCA input on the back of the deck between a high level and low level input. I'm not entirely sure why you'd want to input a high level input into the deck, but it offers the capability all the same.


The unit is high level input compatible if you are feeding it a signal from a device that only has speaker-level outputs.


----------



## spyders03

xt577 said:


> I assume this means the signal first clipped at 58 for the rear, 59 for the sub & no clipping for the front?
> (sorry for the noob question)


Yup, weird, I know.



xt577 said:


> The unit is high level input compatible if you are feeding it a signal from a device that only has speaker-level outputs.


OK, maybe I am losing it or just plain retarded, either is possible. But what rca and speaker level outputs are you inputting into the head unit?!?!


----------



## jcpahman77

spyders03 said:


> OK, maybe I am losing it or just plain retarded, either is possible. But what rca and speaker level outputs are you inputting into the head unit?!?!


Not retarded. A low level signal I get, some sort of device that you want to permanently connect that doesn't use USB or Bluetooth and while it *may* be able to connect via the front 1/8th inch connector would look much more professional if connected to the rear. I know my friend has an XM receiver that uses a 1/8th inch output. Some have commented that a lack of XM/Sirius compatibility would be a negative for them. Perhaps the rear RCA input is an attempt to allow some connectivity for devices like this. I still have NO idea why you would need to input a high level signal though.


----------



## gIzzE

I guess it allows you to add this deck into an oem system, say you have a new BMW with their iDrive fitted this would allow you to route the signal from that into your Pioneer, have OK sound for nav, sirrus, online etc. along with EQ and TA and still have top end from the Pioneer when using it direct. 

It is actually a really good idea and will do away with some of the aftermarket processors where it is always a compromise going through a cheap nasty sounding pre amp.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

I just read where somebody removed the piezo tweeter in the deck to get rid of the stupid beeping.
Anybody try this yet?
Also, anybody know of a firmware update to change the menus so they are more easy to go through?
If I can get these resolved Ill buy it again


----------



## gIzzE

In the advanced menu (hold down main control knob while in standby) you can turn off the beeping. 


What do you find hard about the menus? 
I came from an Alpine and find them so much easier to use.


----------



## Sulley

gIzzE said:


> In the advanced menu (hold down main control knob while in standby) you can turn off the beeping.


Waa? What menu item is this called? I could only find the warning beep one...


----------



## gIzzE

It says in the manual and this is what I did on mine....





> Warning tone (warning tone setting)
> If the front panel is not detached from the head unit within four seconds of turning off the ignition, a warn- ing tone sounds. You can turn off the warning tone. Press M.C. to turn the warning tone on or off.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

gIzzE said:


> In the advanced menu (hold down main control knob while in standby) you can turn off the beeping.
> 
> 
> What do you find hard about the menus?
> I came from an Alpine and find them so much easier to use.


Dude... Are you talking bout the 80prs?
Theres like... ALLOT of people bitchin about the beep.
How can we all have missed this menu?
Can you take a screen shot or something of the menu?

Maybe a screen shot of the page saying this in the manual?
Ive read people removing the sound maker in it. Cause noone has found a menu that removes the beep. Now... The p99rs allows this from what Ive read. Maybe you are mistaken...???


----------



## gIzzE

Here is a screen grab of the page in the manual...


----------



## gIzzE

Remember I am in the UK, so maybe we have this feature, we can also turn off warning signs on nav systems, simply ground a handbrake to get VIM etc.


----------



## gIzzE




----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

This is a warning beep.
This cant be the same beep you get for every time you do something on the unit. 
Someone needs to verify.. I sold mine a while back. 
Cause I couldnt get rid of the beep among other things.


----------



## gIzzE

I thought you were talking about the beeps when you shut down the unit. 
I never noticed the beep, only when using the steering wheel.


----------



## JVD240

Ya, you can turn the warning beep off. Not the suicideinducingeverytimebeep.


----------



## dietDrThunder

JVD240 said:


> Ya, you can turn the warning beep off. Not the suicideinducingeverytimebeep.


Ya I asked about this about 70 pages ago...there is no solution to the beep w/o opening it up. the next time I have the hu out of the car I'm going to cover the beeper with a bit of silicone.


----------



## Sulley

I would like to be able to disable that button beep. I find it very annoying when tuning, especially when playing with T/A.


----------



## dietDrThunder

stockley.rod said:


> I would like to be able to disable that button beep. I find it very annoying when tuning, especially when playing with T/A.


Ya so would everyone else who owns one...


----------



## ou812

It actually doesn't bother me.


----------



## SoulMan76

Yeah I agree, the little beep is such a non issue for me, its not very loud and once I got used to it, its almost like I forgot it was even there. The menus are basic in design, but they're so simple a little kid could figure it out in minutes. What more could they really have done with them to make them different, save a step or two on the return key? 

I think some users who have been using different brands exclusively in the past, are just expecting it to be more like those brands with the way the menus work. I know if I popped in a JVC or kenwood right now, I'd probably find their menus annoying to use right off the bat. That's just because I'm used to the pioneers menu now and can do a lot of the settings with my eyes closed.

If those are the two worse things about a HU, then damn did PIO do a good job with it. 

260$!!!! Its a bargin at twice the price, and the beep and menu still wouldn't bother me. Just my 2cents


----------



## jcpahman77

SoulMan76 said:


> Yeah I agree, the little beep is such a non issue for me, its not very loud and once I got used to it, its almost like I forgot it was even there. The menus are basic in design, but they're so simple a little kid could figure it out in minutes. What more could they really have done with them to make them different, save a step or two on the return key?
> 
> I think some users who have been using different brands exclusively in the past, are just expecting it to be more like those brands with the way the menus work. I know if I popped in a JVC or kenwood right now, I'd probably find their menus annoying to use right off the bat. That's just because I'm used to the pioneers menu now and can do a lot of the settings with my eyes closed.
> 
> If those are the two worse things about a HU, then damn did PIO do a good job with it.
> 
> 260$!!!! Its a bargin at twice the price, and the beep and menu still wouldn't bother me. Just my 2cents


QFT.


----------



## subwoofery

SoulMan76 said:


> Yeah I agree, the little beep is such a non issue for me, its not very loud and once I got used to it, its almost like I forgot it was even there. The menus are basic in design, but they're so simple a little kid could figure it out in minutes. What more could they really have done with them to make them different, save a step or two on the return key?
> 
> I think some users who have been using different brands exclusively in the past, are just expecting it to be more like those brands with the way the menus work. I know if I popped in a JVC or kenwood right now, I'd probably find their menus annoying to use right off the bat. That's just because I'm used to the pioneers menu now and can do a lot of the settings with my eyes closed.
> 
> If those are the two worse things about a HU, then damn did PIO do a good job with it.
> 
> 260$!!!! Its a bargin at twice the price, and the beep and menu still wouldn't bother me. Just my 2cents


When you're tuning, a small beep is distracting - very distracting 
Lucky I did not buy this deck or I would of thrown it in the bin 

Kelvin


----------



## fahrfrompuken

I think the silicone solution would work... If you can even get to it. I will try when I set mine up on the bench to test it with the iPad Mini.


----------



## SoulMan76

subwoofery said:


> When you're tuning, a small beep is distracting - very distracting
> Lucky I did not buy this deck or I would of thrown it in the bin
> 
> Kelvin


I am running mine active and I've done a decent amount of tuning with it, but I guess I'm weird because it doesn't bother me. Would I like the option to turn it off? of course, but to be a deal breaker, not IMO, but to each his own.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

Whoever makes a vid on how to remove or cover that dam beeper will get about 50 thousands hits in a week.


----------



## 2010hummerguy

Been rocking this deck for 6 months now and the beep has never bothered me...maybe it reminds me of my first discman 15 years ago and I've subconsciously blocked it out.


----------



## 07azhhr

I never notice the beep myself. But I do wonder why Pioneer put it in there.


----------



## ChrisB

subwoofery said:


> When you're tuning, a small beep is distracting - very distracting
> Lucky I did not buy this deck or I would of thrown it in the bin
> 
> Kelvin


If replacing this deck didn't mean adding a processor and a 5 channel amplifier, it would have been long gone! If the next contract that I am working to get goes through, I'll be saying "bye bye DEH-80PRS!"


----------



## subwoofery

ChrisB said:


> If replacing this deck didn't mean adding a processor and a 5 channel amplifier, it would have been long gone! If the next contract that I am working to get goes through, I'll be saying "bye bye DEH-80PRS!"


Crossing fingers for you then  

Kelvin


----------



## ZAKOH

I got rid of beeps two days after installing the head unit. Also turned off internal amplifier, and the aux inputs.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

ZAKOH said:


> I got rid of beeps two days after installing the head unit. Also turned off internal amplifier, and the aux inputs.


Tells us what you did


----------



## ZAKOH

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> Tells us what you did


With the head unit turned off, press the main button and hold until the stereo turns on. You will see the menu where you can change these things.


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

ZAKOH said:


> With the head unit turned off, press the main button and hold until the stereo turns on. You will see the menu where you can change these things.


Oh OK 
Dude.. You really know what beeps we talking about here?
We not talking about the warning beep.


----------



## jcpahman77

I just finished installing mine. I haven't had much time with it yet though but I don't think the beep is going to be a factor for me. Yes it's annoying, but once I get it tuned I won't need to tweak too much and I listen mostly to my iPod set to all tracks random, so I don't even advance tracks too often since all the music on my iPod is music I like. I do wish there was a one button pause, that IS going to bother me, but I'll adjust and the way you have to scroll through the sources instead of just picking the one you want is annoying as well. However, none of these annoyances outweigh the positives this deck has IMO. The sound was an improvement over my X494 right out of the box and I haven't made ANY audio adjustments yet. I'm running it F/R/S for now since I'm going to be upgrading my speakers (hopefully this weekend) and then I'll be switching to H/M/L. I disabled the internal amp immediately since I'm using an older KAC-846 for my mains and a Soundstream 360.2 (can't remember the exact model number) bridged for my sub.

The sound quality really is high end. And the color customization makes integrating it as an "OE" install very easy. The deck paired to my older non-smart phone with no issues and pulled my contacts up on the first try (other devices have had issues). I don't have a lot of seat time with this deck yet, but I am looking forward to it.


----------



## 07azhhr

jcpahman77 said:


> I do wish there was a one button pause


There is one on the remote.


----------



## Shadowmarx

I Have had the 80 prs for awhile now. Sense they came out.
I don't even notice the beep any more.
And have gotten use to the feel.
It would be nice if it had more cross over points that would be my complaint.


----------



## jcpahman77

07azhhr said:


> There is one on the remote.


I haven't read the manual yet (that'd be like pulling over to ask for directions) but I have noticed that if I push "band" while playing music from my iPod it does pause and unpause. I have much to learn but I like what I see so far.


----------



## Angrywhopper

I would like to be able to turn the beep off as well. That being said I'll never get rid of this deck. I might do a 99rs one day, but I'll still keep this


----------



## OldSchoolAudioandVideo

So how much would you guys pay for this deck?
I see its usually about $260 refurbished. 
You guys would be willing to pay 300+ for it?
Just asking. 
I sure wish Alpine would come out with something new like the 80prs.
Seems Alpine has gone down the pas 5 years. Even the local dealer ditched um.


----------



## nismos14

260 refurb You can easily find it for $260 new!


----------



## s4k4zulu

^^ +1, its 259 new on azon


----------



## 07azhhr

jcpahman77 said:


> I haven't read the manual yet (that'd be like pulling over to ask for directions) but I have noticed that if I push "band" while playing music from my iPod it does pause and unpause. I have much to learn but I like what I see so far.


 There are different things for the various sources so it does not supprise me that that worked out that way. 



OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> So how much would you guys pay for this deck?
> I see its usually about $260 refurbished.
> You guys would be willing to pay 300+ for it?
> Just asking.
> I sure wish Alpine would come out with something new like the 80prs.
> Seems Alpine has gone down the pas 5 years. Even the local dealer ditched um.


I payed less then $300 for mine brand new. But I did pay $250 iirc for my second one that was slightly used. Some of that was for shipping even if it was included in the price and with todays shipping prices that probably puts the actuall price around $230.


----------



## JVD240

I think he's asking what everyone thinks it's WORTH.

Like... if they increased the price would you still think it's worth it? 

I just put an old P800PRS in last night. I missed this thing. Wish they styled the 80 like this. Motorized face. OM NOM NOM.


----------



## jcpahman77

IMHO it's worth every penny of the MSRP. I got mine NEW from Amazon for $260; I placed the order Sunday and installed the radio yesterday. When I read some of the reviews I think _some_ of the reviewers need to keep in mind this is a purpose built SQ deck. If you're looking for every feature on the market (i.e. Sat/HD radio, changer controls, etc) this probably isn't the deck for you. If, on the other hand, all you're really interested in is very high quality audio and Bluetooth connectivity, then this is the deck for you.

Here's where the deck makes its money IMO.

3 Burr-Brown DACs
28 bit floating DSP processor
4 layer circuit board with the power and ground traces on the internal traces
3 way Network mode (fully active crossover with adjustable frequency, slope, and phase)
Auto EQ
Auto Time Alignment
3 sets of 5v pre-outs
These features alone put the deck into the $400 price range when you compare it to many other decks on the market; at $260 it's highway robbery. 3 years ago (yes I know that was a while ago) I paid $180 for my KDC-X494, there is more than $80 worth of features between the two; again, I know that's an _old_ deck at this point, but I think it illustrates my point.


----------



## ChrisB

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> So how much would you guys pay for this deck?
> I see its usually about $260 refurbished.
> You guys would be willing to pay 300+ for it?
> Just asking.
> I sure wish Alpine would come out with something new like the 80prs.
> Seems Alpine has gone down the pas 5 years. Even the local dealer ditched um.


In all honesty, I wouldn't buy the DEH-80PRS again. While it does offer useful tuning options, being left with less than stock features is kind of annoying. The Bluetooth is utterly useless on my deck, for streaming or hands free. At least I got used to the beep, just in time to look for a replacement.


----------



## JimHTP

It may be worth looking into updating the bluetooth version on your phone or the one on the deck. In the hidden menu on the deck (source off, hold down mc) you can view the BT version you have. I say this because mine works fine, but after rooting my android and accidentally messing with bluetooth version i had issues. A couple flashes and reboots and everything is fine. Though I rarely use my phone for anything but calls through this deck, I loaded up a sd card with wav files and mostly use that.


----------



## Sulley

jcpahman77 said:


> IMHO it's worth every penny of the MSRP...


I would have to agree with this statement. 

Now, that said. I do really like my 80PRS but if you took that unit and made a few changes. Try and fit it in between the 80prs and the 99rs, so...

Still 2-way + sub
31 band L/R EQ
Few extra XO points for those fullranger guys.
A higher quality faceplate (ie: nicer buttons and knob, make it feel/look like the 99rs)
Add That cool remote from the 99rs
and finally Fix a few small complaints of the 80prs, such as that beep and whatever

I think an MSRP Of $650-700, maybe even up around 8. With an amazon price bringing in $500-600ish. This would be prefect for..."ME"


----------



## ReloadedSS

stockley.rod said:


> I would have to agree with this statement.
> 
> Now, that said. I do really like my 80PRS but if you took that unit and made a few changes. Try and fit it in between the 80prs and the 99rs, so...
> 
> Still 2-way + sub
> 31 band L/R EQ
> Few extra XO points for those fullranger guys.
> A higher quality faceplate (ie: nicer buttons and knob, make it feel like the 99rs)
> Add That cool remote from the 99rs
> and Fix a few small complaints of the 80prs
> 
> I think an MSRP Of $650-700, maybe even up around 8. With an amazon price bringing in $500-600ish. This would be prefect for..."ME"


It's funny you mention this, because I have a wild prediction (based on no hard facts) that Pioneer might release a deck, let's call it a 88PRS at next year's CES. This would have many of the features you list, plus a copper chassis, MAP at 800-850, cutting the range between the 80PRS and the 99PRS. 

My amateur basis: the 880PRS was followed by the 800PRS two years, which had some stylistic improvements (including a copper chassis), and they could market it as a name successor to the DEX-M88 (anyone remember that deck?).

Again...I don't work for Pioneer, have no insight into their company, no idea how well their car audio line sells, but given what I can see in the market, it's what I would do. As other source unit manufacturers have altered their strategy, there's still a small (shrinking?) market for active capable, quality decks. The window is closing, as eventually all the manufacturers will switch to making OEM interface or firmware upgrade business when it's not feasible to easily do a deck replacement.


----------



## subwoofery

stockley.rod said:


> I would have to agree with this statement.
> 
> Now, that said. I do really like my 80PRS but if you took that unit and made a few changes. Try and fit it in between the 80prs and the 99rs, so...
> 
> Still 2-way + sub
> 31 band L/R EQ
> Few extra XO points for those fullranger guys.
> A higher quality faceplate (ie: nicer buttons and knob, make it feel/look like the 99rs)
> Add That cool remote from the 99rs
> and finally Fix a few small complaints of the 80prs, such as that beep and whatever
> 
> I think an MSRP Of $650-700, maybe even up around 8. With an amazon price bringing in $500-600ish. This would be prefect for..."ME"


Bringing a deck to bridge the gap between the P80 and the P99 wouldn't be a good marketing choice to make - Pioneer is selling quite a few P99 not only because of its features and ability to do a 3-way+sub system, it's also due to the fact that there's nothing in between it and the P80 in their line-up... 

My opinion 

Kelvin


----------



## nervewrecker

Will be nice to get a head unit to bridge the gap between the P99 and 80prs wrt features and looks. I'm not too keen on the look of the 80prs but heck, how often do I look at it? 

And will be very nice if the case for the faceplate can actually fit the faceplate in it.


----------



## rton20s

subwoofery said:


> Bringing a deck to bridge the gap between the P80 and the P99 wouldn't be a good marketing choice to make - Pioneer is selling quite a few P99 not only because of its features and ability to do a 3-way+sub system, it's also due to the fact that there's nothing in between it and the P80 in their line-up...
> 
> My opinion
> 
> Kelvin


While I do agree to some degree, I can definitely see a place for something that falls between the DEH-80PRS and the DEX-P99RS. Why? Look at Pioneers lineup below the 80PRS. 11 head units within $190 of each other. Some units with only $10 difference and only one or maybe two features separating them! I understand that the low end is where the market is, but surely there is room between a $420 MSRP head unit and a $1350 MSRP head unit. 

Also keep in mind that there are now a total of one, ONE place to buy the DEX-P99RS on US soil. All of those Pioneer dealers out there have no "high end" recourse from Pioneer to compete against the competition's processors. I think finding a happy medium would be pretty simple for Pioneer. Heck, just through some 99 build quality at the 80 functionality with a couple little tweaks like stockley.rod mentioned and you'd have a head unit dealers could market to the SQ guys all day long. Throw in non-SQ features like HD and SAT radio and you have an even broader audience and more justification for the higher price. 

Just my $0.02.


----------



## Sulley

subwoofery said:


> Bringing a deck to bridge the gap between the P80 and the P99 wouldn't be a good marketing choice to make - Pioneer is selling quite a few P99 not only because of its features and ability to do a 3-way+sub system, it's also due to the fact that there's nothing in between it and the P80 in their line-up...
> 
> My opinion
> 
> Kelvin


Agreed 100%. It's probably unreasonable to produce such a unit from a marketing/sales stand point. From a consumer stand point, too much is just as bad or worse than not enough (ie: paradox of choice). Then again, I really have no idea how many head units pioneer sells but I do feel that the "SQ" community is dwindling. 

For me, the 80prs will be a logical stepping stone. I purchased the 80PRS with the intent of running a simple active setup for a little while. Having learned and became comfortable with the tuning process, I can then use this unit as a good starting point to feed a more advanced external DSP.

I understand the all-in-one mentality but I am surprised that the 99RS sells as well as they do. The CD & iPod output of an 80PRS measures just as well as the 99RS, so when paired with an external DSP such as the DSP-Z8 it becomes a more intuitive system with greater tuning capabilitie and its still cheaper than a 99RS. Hell, throw in a Dayton measurement mic for the purpose of tuning and it is still quite a bit cheaper.

Just my thoughts on the topic, I think pioneer has done pretty good with the 80PRS and it is deff worth the money.

Edit: Just looking at some numbers...
80PRS - ~$300
80PRS+DSP-Z8 - ~$300+550 = $850
99RS ~$1300

From strictly a DSP "power" view point, pretty easy choice for me.


----------



## jcpahman77

I've had some more "use" time with this deck now and I have a couple questions/observations. First, while I love that I can pick colors that match my vehicles color scheme, if you pick blue for the display it become USELESS in sunlight, so it would be cool if you could set one color when the dimmer is off and another color when the dimmer is on (headlights on/off). Also, I will say that I liked the menu layout of my Kenwood better than this radio, but it's by no means a sales stopper, I can still adjust everything I want to, it's just a bit more convoluted in my opinion. Next, to those that are annoyed with the beep, I have to ask, does it come out through your speakers or just from the deck? If I am playing music at any normal level I cannot hear the beep at all so I'm having a hard time seeing it as an annoyance. I'd still like to be able to select a source without having to scroll through the entire list of sources, but I'm sure I'll adjust to that too. All in all I'd say this deck hit all the right marks from a SQ stand-point, and that's exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Angrywhopper

OldSchoolAudioandVideo said:


> So how much would you guys pay for this deck?
> I see its usually about $260 refurbished.
> You guys would be willing to pay 300+ for it?
> Just asking.
> I sure wish Alpine would come out with something new like the 80prs.
> Seems Alpine has gone down the pas 5 years. Even the local dealer ditched um.


I'd feel comfortable paying up to $400 for it. What other deck (beside the 99rs) comes even close to this stereo?


----------



## tnbubba

ye ai got one 6 mo after it was ut $329 and worth every penny.. throw in a 4 way and better x/o or more x/o points and i'd drop 400-500 on it.

wonder what op amps they use int he output sections>> BIKINI?? and what they did on the board pretty clean unit.


----------



## jcpahman77

tnbubba said:


> ye ai got one 6 mo after it was ut $329 and worth every penny.. throw in a 4 way and better x/o or more x/o points and i'd drop 400-500 on it.
> 
> wonder what op amps they use int he output sections>> BIKINI?? and what they did on the board pretty clean unit.


For me I don't really care for the amp built into the deck. I know that doesn't work for everybody but I prefer the sound from a good class A/B amp. My Kenwood was rated at something like 17 or 22 watts of "real" power and it couldn't drive a set of RF 6.5" components. I picked up an old Kenwood 4x50 amp and the RF's came to life. In my opinion (please keep in mind, just my opinion) internal deck amplifiers should only be used for factory speakers. anything more than that is worth an external amp.


----------



## xt577

Does anyone have some idea when the onboard amp would start clipping?

2 channels driving 1" tweeters 
2 channels driving 6.5 woofers (90+ db sensitivity)

Using 0db test tones?


----------



## scion1403

I have had my 80PRS for about 6 months? maybe a little less and so far i love it the only issues i have is that they put the mic hole in a rotten place cutting the screen real estate down. They could have put it at the lower left part of the volume knob to the left of source and made the screen a LOT bigger. Also source selection should be on the paddle or something other than a button for a head unit with so many options. Other than that the unit is incredible, best head unit I have ever owned.


----------



## JimHTP

> Does anyone have some idea when the onboard amp would start clipping?
> 
> 2 channels driving 1" tweeters
> 2 channels driving 6.5 woofers (90+ db sensitivity)
> 
> Using 0db test tones?


the speakers don't determine when the amp starts clipping. I think at max wattage @ 4 ohms the manual had the thd @ 10


----------



## jcpahman77

JimHTP said:


> the speakers don't determine when the amp starts clipping. I think at max wattage @ 4 ohms the manual had the thd @ 10


The manual lists the power, in accordance with CEA 2006 specifications, at 14w RMS x 4 channels (4 ohm and no more than 1% THD+N). I did not see a listing for maximum power output.


----------



## jcpahman77

In my opinion, this deck deserves to be connected to an external amp. I picked up an old Kenwood KAC-846 at a local thrift shop for $10. It needed the grounds re-soldered on the RCA inputs -- 10 minutes of work -- and it works perfectly. Its rated specs in 4 channel mode are (20Hz ~ 20KHz, less than 0.08% THD) 50 x 4 RMS. MUCH better quality and considerably more power output.


----------



## WannaBBurly

Stupid question... Is there anyway to control pandora from a device attached via USB? I'm using an iPad mini and would rather control pandora with the bigger screen and see the album info on the screen rather than just the black screen showing "Pioneer" is in control.


----------



## spl152db

WannaBBurly said:


> Stupid question... Is there anyway to control pandora from a device attached via USB? I'm using an iPad mini and would rather control pandora with the bigger screen and see the album info on the screen rather than just the black screen showing "Pioneer" is in control.


use bluetooth then the track toggles work (on my android at least)


----------



## jcpahman77

According to the owners manual, pressing "band" with an iPod connected will transfer control to the iPod. I'm not sure how this works in regards to an iPad or the Pandora app since I have neither but it seems reasonable to think that you would be able to control Pandora from the iPad.


----------



## WannaBBurly

spl152db said:


> use bluetooth then the track toggles work (on my android at least)


I prefer the wired connection, for charging and sound quality.




jcpahman77 said:


> According to the owners manual, pressing "band" with an iPod connected will transfer control to the iPod. I'm not sure how this works in regards to an iPad or the Pandora app since I have neither but it seems reasonable to think that you would be able to control Pandora from the iPad.


That works with other forms of audio, Itunes, Spotify, etc., but once I open Pandora it links up and blacks the screen out and won't let me do much.

I'll mess with it some more, I just hooked it up last night...


----------



## spl152db

WannaBBurly said:


> I prefer the wired connection, for charging and sound quality.


charging I understand, but you said pandora and sound quality... :laugh:

if you pay for pandora it's max is 192kbps but if you don't then it's a crap shoot cause I can't find any information anywhere. 

bluetooth 3.0 incorporates 2.1 plus at least 1 feature of the 3.0 standard. The ipad is 4.0, the pioneer is 3.0. which is fine and dandy but not 3.0 +hs so thats out. Even still the 2.1 protocol introduced 3Mbps transfer rates. which gives you a top out of 366kbps. Which is double what pandora CAN stream at... 

even with bluetooth really having a 2.1 physical limit, its still 256kbps.

so yea hows the sound quality affected?


----------



## WannaBBurly

i knew i should have looked into it more before i said that... haha.


----------



## spl152db

WannaBBurly said:


> i knew i should have looked into it more before i said that... haha.


It's all good.  I get the whole not wanting to be on bluetooth. I used it for convenience most of the time.


----------



## indytrucks

spl152db said:


> charging I understand, but you said pandora and sound quality... :laugh:
> 
> if you pay for pandora it's max is 192kbps but if you don't then it's a crap shoot cause I can't find any information anywhere.
> 
> bluetooth 3.0 incorporates 2.1 plus at least 1 feature of the 3.0 standard. The ipad is 4.0, the pioneer is 3.0. which is fine and dandy but not 3.0 +hs so thats out. Even still the 2.1 protocol introduced 3Mbps transfer rates. which gives you a top out of 366kbps. Which is double what pandora CAN stream at...
> 
> even with bluetooth really having a 2.1 physical limit, its still 256kbps.
> 
> so yea hows the sound quality affected?


Schooled. :laugh:

No, seriously though, that is some good info that I didn't know either.


----------



## indytrucks

So, I got mine in, not hooked up to my amp yet just running fronts and rears off head unit power. Sounds way better already than my last 2 head units (middle line Carrozeria and JVC). 

Some things I've noticed that others complained about:
1) my iphone 5 auto connects to Bluetooth every time. No idea why other iPhone users are having issues. 
2) if I put in a cd it will automatically switch to that. 

Haven't tried USB yet so I'm not sure how the file set up is but I know people had gripes about that. 

All in all, I'm digging it so far. Can't wait to hook my amp up and get my other speakers in to go active.


----------



## jcpahman77

indytrucks said:


> So, I got mine in, not hooked up to my amp yet just running fronts and rears off head unit power. Sounds way better already than my last 2 head units (middle line Carrozeria and JVC).
> 
> Some things I've noticed that others complained about:
> 1) my iphone 5 auto connects to Bluetooth every time. No idea why other iPhone users are having issues.
> 2) if I put in a cd it will automatically switch to that.
> 
> Haven't tried USB yet so I'm not sure how the file set up is but I know people had gripes about that.
> 
> All in all, I'm digging it so far. Can't wait to hook my amp up and get my other speakers in to go active.


Is it just the iPhone that was giving people issues with the Bluetooth connectivity? My older non-smart phone auto connects without problem as well. I've loaded up an SD card that I use primarily and browsing on there isn't a problem as long as the files are stored on the drive in a logical order.


----------



## indytrucks

That's all I saw, iPhone was having connection issues. I don't know if maybe I got a newer firmware version on my deck since I just bought it or maybe they were having issues with the 4/4s that I don't have with the 5 but I thought I'd share my experience. So, for anyone wondering too, the iPhone 5 works fine on it. I think I saw someone asking earlier.


----------



## ZAKOH

xt577 said:


> Does anyone have some idea when the onboard amp would start clipping?
> 
> 2 channels driving 1" tweeters
> 2 channels driving 6.5 woofers (90+ db sensitivity)
> 
> Using 0db test tones?



Assuming you know for sure what's the correct RMS power output of the amplifier, you can use a DMM to see where the amp starts clipping with a 0dB test tone. For a 4ohm driver and 14watt output, the AC voltage you should see is sqrt(4*14). However, it's quite pointless to do this for the tweeter channels. If you look at the spectrum of normal music, you will see that the peaks in the upper frequencies do not even reach -15dB or -30dB depending on music type. I run my front speakers active, and the gain level of tweeters is almost at the same position as for the woofers in order to level match them.


----------



## nervewrecker

Is there any such thing as a wired remote for this head unit? Something I can attach to my steering...

Not finding anything online.


----------



## spl152db

nervewrecker said:


> Is there any such thing as a wired remote for this head unit? Something I can attach to my steering...
> 
> Not finding anything online.


CD-SR100 - Steering Wheel Remote | Pioneer Electronics USA

or if you have steering wheel controls just buy the interface. it plugs in.


----------



## nervewrecker

That's also battery operated. The battery life on the card remotes suck, every 3 months im buying a new one. 

At $40.00 I might as well get it as a back up remote.


----------



## spl152db

nervewrecker said:


> That's also battery operated. The battery life on the card remotes suck, every 3 months im buying a new one.
> 
> At $40.00 I might as well get it as a back up remote.


ok so you want a remote that will hardwire to your steering wheel and not bind up when you turn?


----------



## nismos14

nervewrecker said:


> That's also battery operated. The battery life on the card remotes suck, every 3 months im buying a new one.
> 
> At $40.00 I might as well get it as a back up remote.


Do you use the remote that much? Wow.


----------



## nervewrecker

spl152db said:


> ok so you want a remote that will hardwire to your steering wheel and not bind up when you turn?


I was hoping to find something online but looks like there isnt anything. 

Yup, something to install either there or in the cup holder between both front seats. 

(car does not come with steering wheel controls).

nismos14, I do a lot of night driving so I use the remote to avoid breaking anything my hand may be touching when I hit a rough spot on the road.


----------



## JimHTP

I think what he was pointing out was the extreme difficulty of using a steering wheel with a cord attached to it lol. generally not recommended.

Give pioneer a call. It has a jack for a wired remote in the back, I accidentally plugged the bluetooth mic to it and the HU did some crazy ****!


----------



## spl152db

you could make your own power supply that drops the voltage to that of the remote and run a wire to it and remove the battery. then it would be "hardwired". and you could put it anywhere you wanted.


----------



## nervewrecker

Was hoping I could score something from another car with steering wheel controls and incorporate it in mines actually. 
The way I drive, any cord attached to my wheel will be busted before im halfway to work lolz

Thanks tho, I will email pioneer.

Actually thought of that spl152db, might be a last resort. A cord with a jack so when I dont need it, detach and put away.


----------



## nismos14

What are you going to e-mail them about? They don't have a tethered remote.


----------



## spl152db

buy a new steering wheel with them in it?


----------



## nervewrecker

Looks like i'll be hacking up a remote soon then.


----------



## indytrucks

What car?


----------



## indytrucks

You could always do a remote like he did. If you've got the skills. 

http://diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143103

Starts around page 7-8 iirc.


----------



## jcpahman77

After a quick Google search:
CD-MR70 - Enjoy Wired Remote Features | Pioneer Electronics USA
Too expensive for my taste, but it is a Pioneer brand wired remote compatible with the DEH-80PRS.


----------



## Brian Steele

I just ordered one of these, to replace my Premier 980BT that's beginning to look a bit worn. Mostly because the 80PRS does USB natively (the 980BT requires an external i/f box that doesn't seem to work too well with WMA or MP3 files with a high bit-rate). Apart from the separate L/R eq (and I'd have much preferred separate front/rear EQ instead), the audio features seem identical to the 980BT. I hope the 80PRS sounds as good as, if not better than, the 980BT.


----------



## nervewrecker

indytrucks said:


> What car?


03 nissan almera.

I will cost me less to hack up a normal remote jcpahman lolz


----------



## phxdemon

Has anyone been able to successfully "hack" the deck or update the firmware to drop the HPF lower for a 3 way front stage + sub?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

How about the ipad screen blanking when connected via USB... anyone figure out how to successfully control Pandora from the iPad without using bluetooth (using USB connection only)? I want reserve the bluetooth connection for calls via my phone.


----------



## WannaBBurly

fahrfrompuken said:


> How about the ipad screen blanking when connected via USB... anyone figure out how to successfully control Pandora from the iPad without using bluetooth (using USB connection only)? I want reserve the bluetooth connection for calls via my phone.


Dont think its possible. I've tried it with my iPhone 4s and iPad mini, as soon as that USB port recognizes Pandora, the headunit takes over.

Thinking it might have wire/cable related, I tried a few things...
Pioneer 30-pin USB cable to Apple 30-to-Lightning connector, deck takes over
Apple 30-pin USB to Apple 30-to-Lighting connector, deck takes over
Apple Lightning connector direct to iPad mini, deck takes over


----------



## rton20s

WannaBBurly is right. There is no getting around this right now, and I doubt there ever will be. I've tried a similar combination of cables with both the iPhone 4 and 5. You're just going to have to get used to controlling Pandora from the head unit.


----------



## spl152db

can't you have multiple devices on bluetooth and when you get a call it switches over?


----------



## NonSenCe

im old skool.. and.. i would like to have a cd changer with my next cd player.. 

does this model have a cd changer capability? 

..hell.. i dont know do they still make cd changers these days? 

------
flipping the front plate down to remove and incert a cd after song or two gets annoying real quick.. and i still want to listen certain real cds and songs often, listening them in their original sound quality.. not in mp3. (mp3 cd memorycard stick and ipods.. they are convinient and neat way to have lot of music available for easy listening.. but sometimes i really want to "hear it all".. not packaged sound) so changer is kind of must in my next setup.


----------



## JimHTP

This unit plays .wav files, so you can save like 50 albums to a 32 or 64 gb sd card and play lossless audio without missing anything. s/n isn't quite as high or at least doesn't seem as loud as cd but there is no compression and that beats a 6 cd changer with a stick...

But anyway I think they would, there is an connection on the back for RCA in.


----------



## Married_Man

NonSenCe said:


> not in mp3. (mp3 cd memorycard stick and ipods.. they are convinient and neat way to have lot of music available for easy listening.. but sometimes i really want to "hear it all".. not packaged sound) so changer is kind of must in my next setup.


If you review more of this thread, you'll find info on supported file formats, such as wave and Apple Lossless, that are lossless digital audio formats and provide SQ equivalent to the original CD.

I originally used a HD with all of my music ripped in wave format, but recently converted everything over to Apple Lossless and use an iPod classic.

Will NEVER go back to carrying around CDs. The only time I'll hold a CD is on the way home to rip it


----------



## rton20s

I think that SSD hard drives and SD cards are the new CD changer. As Jim HTP mentioned, you can have lossless formats ripped to a hard drive or SD card and have the same functionality and QUALITY as you had on your CD and a whole lot more of them. It does require some extra steps though and a computer vs just buying a CD and popping it in a changer.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

rton20s said:


> WannaBBurly is right. There is no getting around this right now, and I doubt there ever will be. I've tried a similar combination of cables with both the iPhone 4 and 5. You're just going to have to get used to controlling Pandora from the head unit.


Well that sucks!


----------



## fahrfrompuken

spl152db said:


> can't you have multiple devices on bluetooth and when you get a call it switches over?


Will that even work? Im going to try that on my bench when I get home.


----------



## spl152db

fahrfrompuken said:


> Will that even work? Im going to try that on my bench when I get home.


I know I can have 3 devices saved... never tried to have both on at once... but I know my phone connects to bluetooth (android though) when I go to call.


----------



## jcpahman77

For those with Pandora issues try hitting the "band" button. I don't have anything with Pandora so I can't say if it will work or not, however, when I have my iPod connected and I push "band" it turns control over to my iPod instead of the deck. Worth trying.


----------



## aznbo187

Does anyone know the difference in audio quality if the input source is Aux vs CD vs Bluetooth? 

I know that using different phone's auxiliary jacks that there is a notable difference between a few. Does such thing exist for the Bluetooth? Also, how does Bluetooth sound quality stack up against aux?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

jcpahman77 said:


> For those with Pandora issues try hitting the "band" button. I don't have anything with Pandora so I can't say if it will work or not, however, when I have my iPod connected and I push "band" it turns control over to my iPod instead of the deck. Worth trying.


I tried that... to no avail. When connected via USB, the band button does nothing. I will check again when I get home.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

spl152db said:


> I know I can have 3 devices saved... never tried to have both on at once... but I know my phone connects to bluetooth (android though) when I go to call.


Soundman.ca is selling a Bluetooth to RCA module that means no need for deck unless you want CD.


----------



## spl152db

fahrfrompuken said:


> Soundman.ca is selling a Bluetooth to RCA module that means no need for deck unless you want CD.


The deck has a lot of features I want and I use cd for competition. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## phxdemon

aznbo187 said:


> Does anyone know the difference in audio quality if the input source is Aux vs CD vs Bluetooth?
> 
> I know that using different phone's auxiliary jacks that there is a notable difference between a few. Does such thing exist for the Bluetooth? Also, how does Bluetooth sound quality stack up against aux?


The bluetooth audio quality is terrible. If at all possible I would avoid using it.


----------



## firzen

Hey do any of you guys run into this issue where whenever you select a lighter key backlight colour there's a bit of red visible on the right side of the band button? It's kinda off-putting. Taking a photo of it doesn't help at all either


----------



## fahrfrompuken

spl152db said:


> can't you have multiple devices on bluetooth and when you get a call it switches over?


No joy on that working. I could not switch over to the phone even though it was paired.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

spl152db said:


> The deck has a lot of features I want and I use cd for competition.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


I get that and can appreciate what you are saying. I will still use my 80PRS too.


----------



## aznbo187

phxdemon said:


> The bluetooth audio quality is terrible. If at all possible I would avoid using it.


Really?? That's disappointing to hear. I was really looking forward to having a little less clutter around and being able to control most of it via the headunit. 

I know for a fact I won't be using CD, so what in terms is the hierarchy of quality stemming down from that? Is the rear Aux the same as the front 3.5 aux input?


----------



## NonSenCe

rton20s said:


> I think that SSD hard drives and SD cards are the new CD changer. As Jim HTP mentioned, you can have lossless formats ripped to a hard drive or SD card and have the same functionality and QUALITY as you had on your CD and a whole lot more of them. It does require some extra steps though and a computer vs just buying a CD and popping it in a changer.


i see.. well that is true. one could use those options.. 
but.. 
but..
i want my mtv.. oops i meant, i want my cds. 

not so simple to get the music in that format. i am not interested buying a new computer that has a great cd/dvd drive just to rip all my cds.. (current laptop dont have cd drive). not interested learning how to do .wav files and such formats.. need to learn to use new programs and likely the programs are not freeware. all in all not really interested spending hours of my time ripping audio as i already have the quality cd available.

i can use the memory cards and mp3 cds for entertainment music on every day daily driving.. the quality is enough for that and i have most of the "older" music already done to that format (by others). but when i want "more", i dont want to swap my cds in and out all the time.. thats why i long for the cd changer. noticed that pioneer atleast makes fm modulated changer but long time ago those were horrible. not sure how good they are these days. heck.. i dont know how weak the changers sound these days.. are they up to par in sound quality to players themselves.


----------



## mister2d

phxdemon said:


> The bluetooth audio quality is terrible. If at all possible I would avoid using it.


I disagree. One of the things I am impressed by is Pioneer's implementation of the SBC Bluetooth audio codec in this head unit.

I'm guessing they followed the recommended best practice from the Bluetooth SIG, allowing high quality compressed audio up to 345 kb/s.

What I agree with is other manufacturer's implementation of bluetooth audio. Some are quite poor. I haven't found this to be the case in this head unit. Especially vs the AUX port.


----------



## JimHTP

> not so simple to get the music in that format. i am not interested buying a new computer that has a great cd/dvd drive just to rip all my cds.. (current laptop dont have cd drive). not interested learning how to do .wav files and such formats.. need to learn to use new programs and likely the programs are not freeware. all in all not really interested spending hours of my time ripping audio as i already have the quality cd available.



no, it really is that simple. cd burning/reading drives cost 20-30 bucks (external USB driven)

no programs needed to make .wav files, unless you count itunes or windows media. just use windows media player and click lossless under quality if you are a pc. Doesn't take that much time, maybe 3 minutes for a cd? You can even turn it on auto under the same menu so it auto rips any cd it doesn't already have, and ejects it automatically so you know it's done and you can pop in another. Doing all of these things takes less than 4 clicks of the mouse and 2 minutes.


----------



## aznbo187

mister2d said:


> I disagree. One of the things I am impressed by is Pioneer's implementation of the SBC Bluetooth audio codec in this head unit.
> 
> I'm guessing they followed the recommended best practice from the Bluetooth SIG, allowing high quality compressed audio up to 345 kb/s.
> 
> What I agree with is other manufacturer's implementation of bluetooth audio. Some are quite poor. I haven't found this to be the case in this head unit. Especially vs the AUX port.


I thought so too. The few hours I've had time with playing with the headunit in my friends car, it seemed great. I don't have anything to compare it to, but I didn't notice anything particularly bad in quality. 

Does the brand of the phone matter, or are they all equal in terms of bluetooth streaming quality?


----------



## xt577

I'm paranoid about messing with this unit's RCAs.

So if I wanted to check for distortion with an o-scope, am I running any risk of blowing the pico?

I would of course not plug/unplug the RCAs while the unit is powered up. But do I need to disconnect the car's battery before I plug/unplug the RCAs? or can this safely be done with the battery connected, but with no key in the ignition?


----------



## indytrucks

xt577 said:


> I'm paranoid about messing with this unit's RCAs.
> 
> So if I wanted to check for distortion with an o-scope, am I running any risk of blowing the pico?
> 
> I would of course not plug/unplug the RCAs while the unit is powered up. But do I need to disconnect the car's battery before I plug/unplug the RCAs? or can this safely be done with the battery connected, but with no key in the ignition?


I don't think these units have a pico fuse.


----------



## xt577

indytrucks said:


> I don't think these units have a pico fuse.


Pico or not, there is a still an issue with hot swapping, and I'd really like to know the answer to my question. Can somebody please tell me?


----------



## quality_sound

You don't have to disconnect the battery.


----------



## indytrucks

xt577 said:


> am I running any risk of blowing the pico?





indytrucks said:


> I don't think these units have a pico fuse.





xt577 said:


> Pico or not, there is a still an issue with hot swapping, and I'd really like to know the answer to my question. Can somebody please tell me?


Um, you asked about a pico fuse specifically. Make up your mind. Then you said as a matter of fact that there was an issue with hot swapping. Answering your own question (albeit incorrectly).


----------



## xt577

indytrucks said:


> Um, you asked about a pico fuse specifically. Make up your mind. Then you said as a matter of fact that there was an issue with hot swapping. Answering your own question (albeit incorrectly).


If such issues with the prs80 are not caused by a blown pico fuse (as I originally stated), then my mistake. In my previous reply to you I tried to communicate that regardless of whether a blown pico fuse is the culprit, what I am concerned about is the (seemingly well-established) issue that has to do with hot-swapping RCAs. I think it is clear from my initial question that I was trying to figure out if avoiding a hot-swap was enough to not cause such an issue, or if further precautions need to be taken (which I've seen recommended elsewhere).


----------



## ghrays

Can someone please help me with a question regarding the active cross-over features of this unit?
I have a pair of MB Quart 216 component speakers in my front doors, the woofers are in the doors and the tweeters along the front door sill where the OEM tweeters were for my 2004 Subaru Forester XT. I recently installed the DEH-80PRS and used the network mode of RCA out to my JL Audio HD600/4 amp. I disconnected the passive crossovers and directly connected the tweeters to one pair of channels of the amp the woofers to the other pair of channels. I triple checked the connections of the RCA outputs (High, mid, low from top to bottom on the head unit) and the speaker wires.
So, my question is regarding the tweeters. When using network 1 to mute both of the woofers (i.e. only amplifying the tweeters) the tweeters sound incredibly weak and tinny. By adjusting the High Pass Filter level and crossover point, they get a little louder but no-where near as loud as the woofers for the same music. Is this expected behavior for tweeters? I read a discussion of how to tune an active system where "balancing" the tweeters and woofers with white noise was recommended, but I don't understand how this balance is achieved.


----------



## mister2d

ghrays said:


> Can someone please help me with a question regarding the active cross-over features of this unit?
> I have a pair of MB Quart 216 component speakers in my front doors, the woofers are in the doors and the tweeters along the front door sill where the OEM tweeters were for my 2004 Subaru Forester XT. I recently installed the DEH-80PRS and used the network mode of RCA out to my JL Audio HD600/4 amp. I disconnected the passive crossovers and directly connected the tweeters to one pair of channels of the amp the woofers to the other pair of channels. I triple checked the connections of the RCA outputs (High, mid, low from top to bottom on the head unit) and the speaker wires.
> So, my question is regarding the tweeters. When using network 1 to mute both of the woofers (i.e. only amplifying the tweeters) the tweeters sound incredibly weak and tinny. By adjusting the High Pass Filter level and crossover point, they get a little louder but no-where near as loud as the woofers for the same music. Is this expected behavior for tweeters? I read a discussion of how to tune an active system where "balancing" the tweeters and woofers with white noise was recommended, but I don't understand how this balance is achieved.


Have you first tried, 1) Resetting the 80prs, 2) disable internal amp, 3) adjusting your gains, and 4) run auto ta/eq?


----------



## Boston18

Is there way to get HD radio? Seems like it's only missing this feature?


----------



## mister2d

Boston18 said:


> Is there way to get HD radio? Seems like it's only missing this feature?


External / separate HD radio tuner.


----------



## phxdemon

mister2d said:


> I disagree. One of the things I am impressed by is Pioneer's implementation of the SBC Bluetooth audio codec in this head unit.
> 
> I'm guessing they followed the recommended best practice from the Bluetooth SIG, allowing high quality compressed audio up to 345 kb/s.
> 
> What I agree with is other manufacturer's implementation of bluetooth audio. Some are quite poor. I haven't found this to be the case in this head unit. Especially vs the AUX port.


maybe I have to mess around with it some more. It sounded like the bit rate was very low like an overly compressed mp3


----------



## Boston18

mister2d said:


> External / separate HD radio tuner.


Do you have any recommendations on which ones?


----------



## spl152db

phxdemon said:


> maybe I have to mess around with it some more. It sounded like the bit rate was very low like an overly compressed mp3


depends on your phone if it compresses and the source that your phone is using. If it's pandora, then the issue is pandora plain and simple. audio files never sounded bad on mine.


----------



## Mathematics2

Put in the 80PRS a couple weeks ago & loving it. Kicking myself for not going active sooner, such a tighter sound once its dialed in.

As to hard drive I bought one of these specifically for it, works great - Amazon.com: Transcend 750 GB 2.5-Inch USB 3.0 Military-Grade Shock Resistance Portable External Hard Drive for Mac and PC TS750GSJ25M3: Electronics


----------



## (s)AINT

Does anyone know why I can't use the rear RCA aux port? I can't select it as a source. I heard you have to turn it on in the set up menu but I can't get to it and I can't find out how in the manual.

Can you not select it if you're running active or something?


----------



## mister2d

(s)AINT said:


> Does anyone know why I can't use the rear RCA aux port? I can't select it as a source. I heard you have to turn it on in the set up menu but I can't get to it and I can't find out how in the manual.
> 
> Can you not select it if you're running active or something?


You have to "enable" it.

First turn off the 80prs. Then hold the M.C. button. You'll then be greeted with other menu options of which AUX (1 or 2?) can be enabled.


----------



## (s)AINT

I'll give that a shot later. That's the only thing I think I haven't tried


----------



## indytrucks

And make sure the switch on the bottom is set to the proper voltage.


----------



## xt577

Does this unit automatically set xover points when using auto-EQ/TA?

I'd like to use these auto features, but I'd like to set my own x-over points. If I have to reset the xovers after auto-EQ/TA, it would somewhat defeat the purpose since the auto program would have adjusted the curve, etc for the drivers at the xover points it determined.


----------



## Shadowmarx

It does but you can go back in and change them..
I have set them and then ran auto and it left them as i had set it. and I have also have had it change them...
(Yes it does)


----------



## xt577

Shadowmarx said:


> It does but you can go back in and change them..
> I have set them and then ran auto and it left them as i had set it. and I have also have had it change them...
> (Yes it does)


That's lame. From some reports I've seen it can set them at really odd points too (like tweets at 8k). Change them back to something reasonable and you no longer have a nice flat curve as a starting point.


----------



## quinn_the_eskimo

Just purchased one of these online, received it a few hours ago. To my shock and dismay it does not have Bluetooth. It is a unit meant for the Malaysian market it seems but in all my research on this unit I had not come across one without Bluetooth. 

Anyone here have any experience with a unit like this? I don't know what else is missing. The rear of the unit looks terrible, shocking build.


----------



## nismos14

quinn_the_eskimo said:


> Just purchased one of these online, received it a few hours ago. To my shock and dismay it does not have Bluetooth. It is a unit meant for the Malaysian market it seems but in all my research on this unit I had not come across one without Bluetooth.
> 
> Anyone here have any experience with a unit like this? I don't know what else is missing.


Really?? Any pics of it?


----------



## spl152db

quinn_the_eskimo said:


> Just purchased one of these online, received it a few hours ago. To my shock and dismay it does not have Bluetooth. It is a unit meant for the Malaysian market it seems but in all my research on this unit I had not come across one without Bluetooth.
> 
> Anyone here have any experience with a unit like this? I don't know what else is missing. The rear of the unit looks terrible, shocking build.


haven't heard of there not being bluetooth.


----------



## quinn_the_eskimo

nismos14 said:


> Really?? Any pics of it?


Forgive the pics but I was shaking with anger.

Top left button has 'Colour' and a clock and quarter moon image.









Just WR jack to the left of the RCAs.


----------



## thebookfreak58

I bought a similar item from Thailand. It also didn't have BT and had the same decal/buttons.

I filed a PayPal claim, and got my money back after returning to the seller. Then bought one from the US.


----------



## indytrucks

Use of a phone while driving is strictly prohibited in some countries. Even hands free. Could be the reason.


----------



## Griffin dai

Has anybody managed to go 3 way active plus subs yet? I've just bought some Sinfoni S series 3 ways for the front but want to keep my Genesis P69's in the rear shelf for a little extra bass. I'd like to keep it i Network mode if possible?Also the Sinfoni's don't come with any crossovers.

Any ideas how I can get around this would be a massive help as I'm installing it in a couple weeks.

Amps are Genesis Four Channel and Genesis Dual Mono.

Cheers Dave


----------



## quinn_the_eskimo

Griffin dai said:


> Has anybody managed to go 3 way active plus subs yet? I've just bought some Sinfoni S series 3 ways for the front but want to keep my Genesis P69's in the rear shelf for a little extra bass. I'd like to keep it i Network mode if possible?Also the Sinfoni's don't come with any crossovers.
> 
> Any ideas how I can get around this would be a massive help as I'm installing it in a couple weeks.
> 
> Amps are Genesis Four Channel and Genesis Dual Mono.
> 
> Cheers Dave


Dave,

I'm using a 4 channel amp for my low freq, it has the ability to take the input from channel A and pass it on to the B channel. I hope to do it something like this :
LP Filter on head unit at 250 Hz to amp channel A, HP Filter on at 80 Hz.
LP Filter on channel B at 80 Hz.

I hope that makes sense and my thinking is sound (pun intended).

It will probably mess up my TA and EQ doing it like that though.


----------



## Griffin dai

quinn_the_eskimo said:


> Dave,
> 
> I'm using a 4 channel amp for my low freq, it has the ability to take the input from channel A and pass it on to the B channel. I hope to do it something like this :
> LP Filter on head unit at 250 Hz to amp channel A, HP Filter on at 80 Hz.
> LP Filter on channel B at 80 Hz.
> 
> I hope that makes sense and my thinking is sound (pun intended).
> 
> It will probably mess up my TA and EQ doing it like that though.


Thanks for the reply, I'll look at something similar cheers. 

Thats the other thing I wanted to ask! How will I get around the TA and EQ by doing this? I'm sure someone mentioned having the tweeter & mid close together (or mid/mid...cant remember what was said now)

Is it possible to go 3 way front active on these or only 2way plus subs?


----------



## spyders03

3 way front OR 2 way plus sub. I am doing the 3 way plus sub now, and if wreaks havoc kn your TA, eq is eq, but the TA is the hardest part. I am strongly considering going back to a 2 way plus sub.


----------



## spyders03

The only way to get around it is getting an external dsp, or getting an amp with ta settings built in.


----------



## Griffin dai

spyders03 said:


> 3 way front OR 2 way plus sub. I am doing the 3 way plus sub now, and if wreaks havoc kn your TA, eq is eq, but the TA is the hardest part. I am strongly considering going back to a 2 way plus sub.


Thanks, ill keep an eye out here to see how you get on 

I've probably got this all wrong and trying to simplify things, but what I thought was run 3 way front then use the HU's rear speaker outputs for the subs. I don't think this'll work though. 

In network mode, if all rca outputs are used, what happens to the front & rear HU speaker outputs that aren't connected to anything? (Probably confusing myself now!!)


----------



## spyders03

Actually, I've wondered the same myself


----------



## 07azhhr

Griffin dai said:


> Thanks, ill keep an eye out here to see how you get on
> 
> I've probably got this all wrong and trying to simplify things, but what I thought was run 3 way front then use the HU's rear speaker outputs for the subs. I don't think this'll work though.
> 
> In network mode, if all rca outputs are used, what happens to the front & rear HU speaker outputs that aren't connected to anything? (Probably confusing myself now!!)


 
The manual recommends not to use both the internal amp and the RCA's at the same time. 

Since I am running a 3 way plus sub setup with mine and I needed to buy amps I just bought Zapco DC ref amps to gain the extra channels of TA.


----------



## xt577

07azhhr said:


> The manual recommends not to use both the internal amp and the RCA's at the same time.


Do you happen to know where this is stated?


----------



## spl152db

xt577 said:


> Do you happen to know where this is stated?


page 36 it recommends disabling the internal amplifier when external amplifiers are used.


----------



## nervewrecker

quinn_the_eskimo said:


> Forgive the pics but I was shaking with anger.
> 
> Top left button has 'Colour' and a clock and quarter moon image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just WR jack to the left of the RCAs.


WTF!


----------



## sqnut

You can leave the internal amp on without any negative impact to the unit, in case you need it. Sound is cleaner with it switched off though. Nominal difference but its there.


----------



## 07azhhr

Griffin dai said:


> Thanks, ill keep an eye out here to see how you get on
> 
> I've probably got this all wrong and trying to simplify things, but what I thought was run 3 way front then use the HU's rear speaker outputs for the subs. I don't think this'll work though.
> 
> In network mode, if all rca outputs are used, what happens to the front & rear HU speaker outputs that aren't connected to anything? (Probably confusing myself now!!)


In network mode the front and rear speaker wires act just like the rca's. The rear speaker wires become the HIGH and the fronts become the MID. So any eq, ta, level, or xo that you apply to the matching rca's will also be applied to the speaker wires.


----------



## Griffin dai

07azhhr said:


> In network mode the front and rear speaker wires act just like the rca's. The rear speaker wires become the HIGH and the fronts become the MID. So any eq, ta, level, or xo that you apply to the matching rca's will also be applied to the speaker wires.


Thanks, thats cleared that up for me 

So would this work in Network Mode?

Tweeters= High RCA
4" Dash mids= Front speaker wires MID
6.5" Door Mids= Mid RCA
6x9 Subs= Low RCA

Not sure about the Auto TA & EQ though, might be ok if I mounted the 4" mids closer to the door speakers but I was thinking about maybe having them fitted by a shop with the tweeters in some nice custom dash pods 

I don't think this is going to work


----------



## rton20s

You would be better off running whichever two speakers are closest together off of the same output channels (low/mid/high) because of time alignment. The problem is, those would probably be your "dash mids" and tweeters and the high crossover point doesn't go all that low on the DEH-80PRS. 

I really think you are trying too hard to make the head unit do something it was never designed or intended to do.


----------



## 07azhhr

Griffin dai said:


> Thanks, thats cleared that up for me
> 
> So would this work in Network Mode?
> 
> Tweeters= High RCA
> 4" Dash mids= Front speaker wires MID
> 6.5" Door Mids= Mid RCA
> 6x9 Subs= Low RCA
> 
> Not sure about the Auto TA & EQ though, might be ok if I mounted the 4" mids closer to the door speakers but I was thinking about maybe having them fitted by a shop with the tweeters in some nice custom dash pods
> 
> I don't think this is going to work


 
It would be the exact same as running the 4's and 6.5's off of a 4 channel amp. What ever you adjust/set for the mid channels will equally affect both the 4's and 6.5's. You would need to have some, external from the HU, way to cross between the 4's and the 6.5's. Then you run into TA issues since any TA applied to the mid channels will affect both of them. Level adjustments too could and most likely would be an issue as well. 

For me I am running my 3's and my 8's off of my mid out rca's. I am feeding the mid channel rca's to two amps that have built in processing. So I am using the HU's mid out xo at 50hz for the HPF and 6.3k hz for the LPF. But my 3's are ony playing from 6.3k down to 200hz where the 8's take over and go down to 50hz. In order to separate them I am using each of their amps built in processing to cross them at 200hz in both directions. Since my 3's are in my pillars and my 8's are in my doors I have path length differnces bwteen the 3's and the 8's with the 3's being closer to me then the 8's. So I am using the 3" speakers amp to TA them to the 8's. Then any TA I make to the mid channels in the HU are applied to both the 3's and the 8's equally.


----------



## xt577

07azhhr said:


> The manual recommends not to use both the internal amp and the RCA's at the same time.


The manual states that if the internal amp is not being used, it is recommended to disable it to reduce noise. There's no issue using both, and it works as 07azhhr posted.


----------



## 07azhhr

xt577 said:


> The manual states that if the internal amp is not being used, it is recommended to disable it to reduce noise. There's no issue using both, and it works as 07azhhr posted.


Sorry I should not have stated at the same time.

Like Sqnut posted it works but can add noise. Pioneer just recommend not using all the rca's and leaving the internal amp on if you are not using the speaker wires.


----------



## Griffin dai

rton20s said:


> I really think you are trying too hard to make the head unit do something it was never designed or intended to do.


Yeah I think your right :blush:

Its just that I've bought these sinfoni 3 ways and really fancied getting them installed and use the p69's in the rear


----------



## Griffin dai

07azhhr said:


> It would be the exact same as running the 4's and 6.5's off of a 4 channel amp. What ever you adjust/set for the mid channels will equally affect both the 4's and 6.5's. You would need to have some, external from the HU, way to cross between the 4's and the 6.5's. Then you run into TA issues since any TA applied to the mid channels will affect both of them. Level adjustments too could and most likely would be an issue as well.
> 
> For me I am running my 3's and my 8's off of my mid out rca's. I am feeding the mid channel rca's to two amps that have built in processing. So I am using the HU's mid out xo at 50hz for the HPF and 6.3k hz for the LPF. But my 3's are ony playing from 6.3k down to 200hz where the 8's take over and go down to 50hz. In order to separate them I am using each of their amps built in processing to cross them at 200hz in both directions. Since my 3's are in my pillars and my 8's are in my doors I have path length differnces bwteen the 3's and the 8's with the 3's being closer to me then the 8's. So I am using the 3" speakers amp to TA them to the 8's. Then any TA I make to the mid channels in the HU are applied to both the 3's and the 8's equally.


 Cheers!! I need to read that a few more times and work out exactly whats being said!!! 
(Still learning about this stuff) :blush::blush:


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Is this thread dead? I will be installing the 80PRS this weekend. Ipad mini should also be in and paired with it by the end of the 3 day weekend. It works well (I tested it on my bench).

PRS will be in the glove box and mini in the dash.


----------



## spyders03

Not really, still the best unit besides the p99rs


----------



## ou812

spyders03 said:


> Not really, still the best unit besides the p99rs


It really does keep getting better the longer i have mine. It's amazing that the things i hated in the beginning don't even matter anymore.


----------



## spyders03

ou812 said:


> It really does keep getting better the longer i have mine. It's amazing that the things i hated in the beginning don't even matter anymore.


, Agreed, and I found the setting to get rid of the annoying beeps too.


----------



## ou812

spyders03 said:


> , Agreed, and I found the setting to get rid of the annoying beeps too.


That was actually one thing that didn't bother me at all. I had an Eclipse 8454 before this and the menus especially the crossover section was a real pita with the Pioneer in the beginning. I zip around the menus now like I have had the hu for 10 yrs.


----------



## MerlinWerks

fahrfrompuken said:


> Is this thread dead? I will be installing the 80PRS this weekend. Ipad mini should also be in and paired with it by the end of the 3 day weekend. It works well (I tested it on my bench).
> 
> PRS will be in the glove box and mini in the dash.


Not for me it isn't 
Just got mine yesterday, hope to install this weekend. In the process of reading through the thread for hints and tips...



spyders03 said:


> , Agreed, and I found the setting to get rid of the annoying beeps too.


Is that posted somewhere in this thread?


----------



## spyders03

No, so far no one has been able to tell how, so here is my way. 
Step 1, find some music you enjoy.
Step 2, turn the volume know up to at least 40
Step 3, enjoy not hearing any beeps!


----------



## SkipNJ

So if I'm reading this right, I CAN run tweeters off the HU amp front/highs speaker wires, send signal to an outboard amp with the rear/mid pair of RCAs , and then send signal to an outboard amp using the sub/lows pair of RCAs to create a 6-channel stereo sytem with the HU and one 4 channel amp. I'd still be able to TA each of the 6 channels right?


----------



## JimHTP

> So if I'm reading this right, I CAN run tweeters off the HU amp front/highs speaker wires, send signal to an outboard amp with the rear/mid pair of RCAs , and then send signal to an outboard amp using the sub/lows pair of RCAs to create a 6-channel stereo sytem with the HU and one 4 channel amp. I'd still be able to TA each of the 6 channels right?


No, you won't be able to T/a them all. and you will have a high likelihood of ground noise and signal interference from having the amp on


----------



## rton20s

SkipNJ said:


> So if I'm reading this right, I CAN run tweeters off the HU amp front/highs speaker wires, send signal to an outboard amp with the rear/mid pair of RCAs , and then send signal to an outboard amp using the sub/lows pair of RCAs to create a 6-channel stereo sytem with the HU and one 4 channel amp. I'd still be able to TA each of the 6 channels right?


Correct. Except you would use the configuration is Front/Mid and Rear/High. So the Rear/High RCAs would not be used and the tweeters would be powered off of the head unit and the Front/Mid RCAs would send signal to an amp for your mids.


----------



## rton20s

JimHTP said:


> No, you won't be able to T/a them all. and you will have a high likelihood of ground noise and signal interference from having the amp on


Except there are people on here who have already done this. Not that I think it is the best way to go, but they reported having no issues.


----------



## JimHTP

Ahhh OK. I thought you wouldn't be able to ta all channels with a mix of network and standard mode on


----------



## rton20s

JimHTP said:


> Ahhh OK. I thought you wouldn't be able to ta all channels with a mix of network and standard mode on


It is actually all in Network mode. It is just using a mix of on-board and outboard amplification. The preferred method, when possible, would be to turn off the on-board amp and use only outboard amplification.


----------



## 07azhhr

JimHTP said:


> No, you won't be able to T/a them all.


 
The TA works regardless of rca or internal amp. When it has been stated to not work right is when one wants to power two sets of speakers using the SHARED internal amp and rca channels.


----------



## steelcityuk

Hi All.

I bought a DEH 80PRS to replace my DEH P6000UB. The HU was fitted last weekend but the Bluetooth is faulty (error 10) so I've had to return it and so I'm currently waiting for a replacement. Initially it's being used in a very simple setup, 6.5" JVC co-axials and a 6.5" Bazooka tube. Hopefully the next one will be OK.

Steve.


----------



## NA$TY-TA

A lot of good info in this thread.


----------



## TAMUmpower

Has anyone else noticed that you can increase on decrease the intensity of the different EQ presets. Its either the rocker or volume knob I forget. Realized this the other day. Not that I use the presets but does add some flexibility I didnt think it had on the presets.


----------



## tx4wl

Ok I have read this thread ...took awhile and alot if not most questions were answered. Just to clarify again whats the best way to use the prs+ 4ch and mono amps to go active..I have a 4runner and i want to use the rear door speakers as well, I know people are saying just worry about the front stage . so how would you suggest running 2way front(mids and tweets),mids rear,and 2 8w's?. If it makes sence at all i was thinking about not using the x over points with the HU for the subs and using the x over on the jl xd 600(and possibly dasiy chain another mono amp for a single 10" will this mess up TA? This HU is light years ahaead of what I used to(havnt touched car audio sence the 90's) basically I have 6(maybe 7) speakers to tame with this HU and 2 amps ...seems really simple in my head but after reading this thread my head hurts help plz


----------



## MerlinWerks

Just replaced my DEH P6000UB with the PRS-80 in my 2009 Rav4. SPX17-Pro components (old style) using the passives for now until I get one of my ARC Minis repaired.

That being said, the PRS-80 made an honest night/day difference with just the straight Auto TA/EQ, no additional tuning yet and TBH I don't think it's going to take much tweaking. 

Very pleased so far


----------



## jcpahman77

I just finished wiring mine for full active, my hand was forced before I intended due to a broken crossover, but boy am I glad I did. My front stage is currently Rockford Fosgate fanatic X 6.5" components with what has got to be the harshest soft dome tweeters I have ever heard. Now, they're tolerable but I still can't wait to get my new speakers installed.









Driver's side rear panel on a 2001 MKIV GTI. All the wires minus a set of RCAs are for the front stage.

Sent from my X501_USA_Cricket using Tapatalk 2


----------



## xdmbx

Looking at this HU, is it overkill for driving two coaxial speakers? I'm thinking of pairing it with the Hybrid Audio Imagines.

Thanks...


----------



## rton20s

"Overkill?" Maybe. But it offers you a lot if flexibility for future upgrades, if you so desire. If you want to save some cash and will never go active, you might also consider the Alpine CDE-147BT from Alpine. I run the DEH-80PRS in my car and I have the Alpine on the way from Crutchfield for the wife's car.


----------



## jcpahman77

I haven't checked Amazon's price since I bought mine in March, but then it was $260 shipped. I cannot think of a better value for that price.

Sent from my X501_USA_Cricket using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DATCAT

xdmbx said:


> Looking at this HU, is it overkill for driving two coaxial speakers? I'm thinking of pairing it with the Hybrid Audio Imagines.
> 
> Thanks...


This will sound great!


----------



## rodmankn3

tx4wl said:


> Ok I have read this thread ...took awhile and alot if not most questions were answered. Just to clarify again whats the best way to use the prs+ 4ch and mono amps to go active..I have a 4runner and i want to use the rear door speakers as well, I know people are saying just worry about the front stage . so how would you suggest running 2way front(mids and tweets),mids rear,and 2 8w's?. If it makes sence at all i was thinking about not using the x over points with the HU for the subs and using the x over on the jl xd 600(and possibly dasiy chain another mono amp for a single 10" will this mess up TA? This HU is light years ahaead of what I used to(havnt touched car audio sence the 90's) basically I have 6(maybe 7) speakers to tame with this HU and 2 amps ...seems really simple in my head but after reading this thread my head hurts help plz


Good question. waiting for someone to answer!!


----------



## spl152db

tx4wl said:


> Ok I have read this thread ...took awhile and alot if not most questions were answered. Just to clarify again whats the best way to use the prs+ 4ch and mono amps to go active..I have a 4runner and i want to use the rear door speakers as well, I know people are saying just worry about the front stage . so how would you suggest running 2way front(mids and tweets),mids rear,and 2 8w's?. If it makes sence at all i was thinking about not using the x over points with the HU for the subs and using the x over on the jl xd 600(and possibly dasiy chain another mono amp for a single 10" will this mess up TA? This HU is light years ahaead of what I used to(havnt touched car audio sence the 90's) basically I have 6(maybe 7) speakers to tame with this HU and 2 amps ...seems really simple in my head but after reading this thread my head hurts help plz


Um you can do this but defeats the purpose of this head unit. You'd need passive crossovers for the front components, run the cd play in standard not network and you'd be fine. Time alignment and stage will suck. And by suck I mean be non existent. Then you run the components on the front, rears on rears and sub on sub. You can use the crossover built into it as well this way. And running 3 subs would be fine as long as the subs are relatively in the same distance to the front. In all honesty you're wasting your time and money on this deck if you're wanting to run components, rears, and 3 subs. You need a p99 or external processing. IMHO 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## spyders03

spl152db said:


> Um you can do this but defeats the purpose of this head unit. You'd need passive crossovers for the front components, run the cd play in standard not network and you'd be fine. Time alignment and stage will suck. And by suck I mean be non existent. Then you run the components on the front, rears on rears and sub on sub. You can use the crossover built into it as well this way. And running 3 subs would be fine as long as the subs are relatively in the same distance to the front. In all honesty you're wasting your time and money on this deck if you're wanting to run components, rears, and 3 subs. You need a p99 or external processing. IMHO
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Took the words out of my mouth, well said

Swyped while swerving


----------



## Nismo

I agree with SPL152DB. With that said, I bought my 80PRS for my car to do mostly front stage, but also rear fill, as I do cart people around with me. My solution to that, was to go with the Kicker SX series amps, so I can change the gain/slope/xover points from the drivers seat. I lose some in the EQ dept, but it was worth it for me.

Eric


----------



## ChrisB

Just when I thought I couldn't hate the DEH-80PRS any more, my HU has developed a whine that is reminiscent of the dreaded Pico fuse failure of days past. This was my first Pioneer HU in a while and is most definitely my LAST! Looks like mine delivered a KO punch to itself.


----------



## rton20s

That stinks to hear. Hopefully it is an anomaly. Have you checked it with multiple sources?


----------



## quality_sound

Check the connections for the faceplate. Seriously.


----------



## car8961

I use the 80prs and would not trade it for anything at the price point.


----------



## SH00T

Just made a Record keeping sheet in M$ Word for those that keep a track of that kind of thing.


----------



## rodmankn3

^^ nice


----------



## spl152db

SH00T said:


> Just made a Record keeping sheet in M$ Word for those that keep a track of that kind of thing.


thats pretty useful. keep it stapled to the sheet for your judging scores. know what worked and what didn't.


----------



## 2010hummerguy

quality_sound said:


> Check the connections for the faceplate. Seriously.


x2, my old 710BT would do this if the faceplate was not connected properly.


----------



## SH00T

spl152db said:


> thats pretty useful. keep it stapled to the sheet for your judging scores. know what worked and what didn't.


Exactly...
Seem to doing OK this year. Pulled off State Champ for my Class....
Entering the Nationals... 
Yes, its works Upside Down... Hello from Aus....

Running Focal KR2 Active front stage, IB Doors and a Morel Ultimo SC12 in my own FG enclosure.. PDX M12 and F6 powering the goodies..
Car is basically a 05 Diamante... With some go fast bits, like a manual... 

Can you beleive Pioneer want $799.00 AUD for this over here... Thats why I got mine from the states..

So its a pretty good deck SQ wise, my results prove that, I can go up against better decks no problems, and be in with a chance..

Do miss 1 Db increases in the EQ, instead of two, and 1/3 octave EQ would have the go, but considering the price... 

When they have a better unit, with the Multimedia support of this... I'll be there...


----------



## SkipNJ

I will be installing my 80PRS, speakers and amp this Wednesday, but not the subwoofer. I plan to either connect my 5th channel to the factory 6x9 subwoofer with the gains set super low, or leave the sub disconnected altogether. If I set my crossovers for low,mid,high without a sub, is it safe to use the auto EQ? Will it add a ton of boost to the low frequencies and damage my mids trying to compensate for the lack of lows?


----------



## nismos14

Yes you can use the Auto EQ, you can set the subwoofer too off. It won't murder your mids.


----------



## JVD240

Also, you set the crossovers yourself so you could protect the mids that way. I don't think it'll boost the lows to the point of blowing the mids. Just try it.


----------



## SkItZo

Got a few questions about this HU
First, does it support playlists of any sort from USB/SD Card? I have read the manual and it states it does not support m3u, however it does not state anything about other playlist formats.

If playing a playlist from iphone/ipod/usb, when you select random does it play random tunes from the playlist or does it play random tunes from the whole device?

Thanks guys


----------



## nismos14

SkItZo said:


> Got a few questions about this HU
> First, does it support playlists of any sort from USB/SD Card? I have read the manual and it states it does not support m3u, however it does not state anything about other playlist formats.


Just put the music in as folders, that's your playlist.



> If playing a playlist from iphone/ipod/usb, when you select random does it play random tunes from the playlist or does it play random tunes from the whole device?
> 
> Thanks guys


Either or, you can play a random playlist, random everything, random artist, random songs from a specific artist etc.


----------



## SkItZo

nismos14 said:


> Just put the music in as folders, that's your playlist.
> 
> 
> 
> Either or, you can play a random playlist, random everything, random artist, random songs from a specific artist etc.


Thanks for the reply,

The issue is that I have a folder structure of artists\albums (so that I can listen to particular albums/artists etc) and then different tunes in different playlists so having them all in 2 different locations seems a bit of a waste of space, particularly as I plan on using wav files (however iirc I have read that it does not support music from usb in any form over 320kbps?)

If it supports playlists then I dont have to worry about having tunes in 2 different locations, (Folder for playlist and then album\artist)

By Either or, I am assuming you mean that if I am playing from a playllist, It can play random songs from the playlist, or I can set it to play random songs in the playlist from an artist/album? Or I can also set it to play all tunes from an album/artist at random?

Thanks again


----------



## nismos14

SkItZo said:


> Thanks for the reply,
> 
> The issue is that I have a folder structure of artists\albums (so that I can listen to particular albums/artists etc) and then different tunes in different playlists so having them all in 2 different locations seems a bit of a waste of space, particularly as I plan on using wav files (however iirc I have read that it does not support music from usb in any form over 320kbps?)
> 
> If it supports playlists then I dont have to worry about having tunes in 2 different locations, (Folder for playlist and then album\artist)


Ah I get it, sorry I'm not sure about that.




> By Either or, I am assuming you mean that if I am playing from a playllist, It can play random songs from the playlist, or I can set it to play random songs in the playlist from an artist/album? Or I can also set it to play all tunes from an album/artist at random?
> 
> Thanks again


Yep!


----------



## [email protected]

I've had the unit in my car for about a month and a half now and its pushing Focal KRX2's passive off the head unit amp ane let me tell you, it sounds GREAT! I ran time alignment and Auto EQ and it just sounds butter. I can't WAIT to hear what they sound like when I get the Mosconi 120.4 DSP amp pushing them active.


----------



## rodmankn3

I installed this unit a couple of month ago in regular mode and it was pretty good. Infinity 2 way up front and jbl 2 way in the rear no sub. Last week I installed a ppi 900.5 with jbl ms-62 up front and alpine 8" enclosed sub on network mode and this thing rocks. It sounds awesome.

sent from my Galaxy S4


----------



## bsptaco

Is there a way to run the head unit without the EQ? I went through all the setting and could not find anything or if there is one. :blush:


----------



## JimHTP

Umm...lol...couldn't you just set everything to zero?


----------



## Shadowmarx

Flat...


----------



## ChrisB

Update on my alternator whine... Wrapping my RCA shields on the HU solved my alternator whine issue. I believe the pico popped when I stalled the car and restarted it because I remember hearing a loud CLICK sound upon restarting the car and that is when the alternator whine began.

The curse of Pioneer strikes me again... To think, I haven't used a Pioneer deck since the 1990s. If Alpine had something NEW that competed directly against the DEH-80POS, I'd rip the Pioneer out TODAY and buy the Alpine!


----------



## knever3

They do, 149BT if you have the PXA-H800 to go with it to do the three way setup. Easy Cheezy. Yeah I know you have to buy the add of DSP but it's better than the stand alone Pioneer anyway. Alpine found out that most of their customers want a cheap deck and the high end all in one decks are just a small market like a sports car in America. If you compare the 99prs cost to that combo it looks pretty sweet, plus you get a quality feel to the faceplate controls.

My opinion, don't bash me for a thought...we all have them


----------



## rton20s

That is the key though, isn't it. Alpine doesn't offer anything now outside of a stand alone DSP. There have been plenty of us that have stated we would switch to Alpine in a heart beat if they offered a reasonably price head unit with DSP. The whole reason people pick up the DEH-80PRS is that it offers a DSP solution at a very low price. Alpine just isn't competing for that market right now. Maybe we'll get lucky in the new year and they'll surprise us.


----------



## knever3

rton20s said:


> That is the key though, isn't it. Alpine doesn't offer anything now outside of a stand alone DSP. There have been plenty of us that have stated we would switch to Alpine in a heart beat if they offered a reasonably price head unit with DSP. The whole reason people pick up the DEH-80PRS is that it offers a DSP solution at a very low price. Alpine just isn't competing for that market right now. Maybe we'll get lucky in the new year and they'll surprise us.


That would be awesome, maybe with Pioneer breaking ground with the 80prs Alpine will take note. I don't think it will be as inexpensive because the faceplate is so cheap on the Pioneer comparatively. Alpine gave up on the single DIN high end head unit because fewer American cars have a DIN slot anymore. Touch screen is the way to go now, that's why they came out with the uber expensive 8" model and direct fit kits.


----------



## ChrisB

knever3 said:


> They do, 149BT if you have the PXA-H800 to go with it to do the three way setup. Easy Cheezy. Yeah I know you have to buy the add of DSP but it's better than the stand alone Pioneer anyway. Alpine found out that most of their customers want a cheap deck and the high end all in one decks are just a small market like a sports car in America. If you compare the 99prs cost to that combo it looks pretty sweet, plus you get a quality feel to the faceplate controls.
> 
> My opinion, don't bash me for a thought...we all have them


If I were to go that route, I'd just get something like the 3Sixty.3 then HU won't matter.


----------



## whitrzac

Does anyone know if the headunit will interface with pandora through an ipod touch?


----------



## rton20s

Pandora is controlled from the head unit when connecting an iOS device.


----------



## whitrzac

rton20s said:


> Pandora is controlled from the head unit when connecting an iOS device.



So crutchfields's chart is wrong?
Pioneer DEH-80PRS CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

I want a to leave an ipod touch hooked to the head unit continuously.


AKA blutooth audio sucks and I don't want to have my android phone plugged in all the time


----------



## Serieus

i'm guessing that they state that pandora isn't controlled from the head unit using an ipod touch because the ipod touch doesn't have internet without a wifi connection, i would imagine that it would work. i don't have a way to get wifi to my old ipod touch in the car or i'd check for you


----------



## rton20s

When you plug in an iOS device and fire up the Pandora app, everything is controlled through the head unit. This is a "safety" measure to discourage users from using their devices while driving. The theory being that it is safer to control everything from the head unit.


----------



## quality_sound

whitrzac said:


> So crutchfields's chart is wrong?
> Pioneer DEH-80PRS CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
> 
> I want a to leave an ipod touch hooked to the head unit contentiously.
> 
> 
> AKA blutooth audio sucks and I don't want to have my android phone plugged in all the time


Contentiously??


----------



## rton20s

quality_sound said:


> Contentiously??


You wanna fight about it?!


----------



## whitrzac

quality_sound said:


> Contentiously??



I have no idea what your talking about


----------



## BGChicago

Does anyone know where can I get a list of wired remote control commands that this unit recognizes?
I want to confirm that Bluetooth dial/voice dial is present as a command. In other word, I want keep steering wheel Bluetooth controls for call/hang up/voice dial.


----------



## NateZ28

So I'm the newest member of the 80PRS club. Installed the deck this weekend and love it. Can anyone explain what the Digital Attenuation Low/High setting does exactly? I have it set to Low right now playing high quality music off my iPhone.
How do I turn off the beeping noise every time I change the volume? 


[email protected] said:


> I've had the unit in my car for about a month and a half now and its pushing Focal KRX2's passive off the head unit amp ane let me tell you, it sounds GREAT! I ran time alignment and Auto EQ and it just sounds butter. I can't WAIT to hear what they sound like when I get the Mosconi 120.4 DSP amp pushing them active.


I'm considering this same setup for my Genesis Coupe. I'm guessing you have no rear fill correct?
I'd love to know what you think of the KRX2's in active mode.


----------



## Serieus

NateZ28 said:


> How do I turn off the beeping noise every time I change the volume?


you can't 

can't help you with your other question though, sorry


----------



## whitrzac

Enter setup(center button+SRC while off)
turn off beep/notification/something like that

And RTFM


----------



## NateZ28

whitrzac said:


> Enter setup(center button+SRC while off)
> turn off beep/notification/something like that
> 
> And RTFM


Ah ha! Thank you. 
What is RTFM?

So does anyone understand what exactly the Digital ATT does?

EDIT: 69th post! Woo!


----------



## whitrzac

Read the _____ manual...

Apparently I do too, I didn't see a way to turn off the beep your talking of, but I'm 99% sure mine doesn't do it...

digital att is for CDs, some play at a higher level than others.


----------



## NateZ28

whitrzac said:


> Read the _____ manual...
> 
> Apparently I do too, I didn't see a way to turn off the beep your talking of, but I'm 99% sure mine doesn't do it...
> 
> digital att is for CDs, some play at a higher level than others.


Oh... Jerk. 
I did read the manual and didn't see any of that. I even searched the manual 
PDF to no alas: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_OperationManual020712.pdf

So does the Digital ATT affect USB playback since it is also digital?


----------



## whitrzac

pg 36


----------



## NateZ28

whitrzac said:


> pg 36


There's nothing there about turning off the beeping when changing the volume. I also did what you said, hold the center button + SRC, and nothing happens.


----------



## whitrzac

NateZ28 said:


> There's nothing there about turning off the beeping when changing the volume. I also did what you said, hold the center button + SRC, and nothing happens.


Like I said, I don't know if there is a way to turn the beep off, I'm 99% certain that mine doesn't do it. I will look into it on my way home.

pg 36 does explain what the digital att does.


----------



## whitrzac

I played with it on the way home...

Mine doesn't beep when changing the volume, but will when I'm scrolling through the menus.

I have no clue why yours does...


----------



## NateZ28

whitrzac said:


> I played with it on the way home...
> 
> Mine doesn't beep when changing the volume, but will when I'm scrolling through the menus.
> 
> I have no clue why yours does...


Are you sure your's doesn't? If not, I wonder why.


----------



## whitrzac

NateZ28 said:


> Are you sure your's doesn't? If not, I wonder why.


If it did I would have returned it or disconnected the beeper.

setup:
network mode
external amps
internal amp off


----------



## NateZ28

whitrzac said:


> If it did I would have returned it or disconnected the beeper.
> 
> setup:
> network mode
> external amps
> internal amp off


I'm not in network mode nor do I have the amp turned off. I'm still using the stock POS door speakers for the time being. Maybe by turning the internal amp off disables the beeping. Or it could be possible you are using a different software version.


----------



## Serieus

how are each of you changing volume? it beeps when you use the buttons on the remote, i don't think it does with the volume knob on the faceplate


----------



## whitrzac

knob...


----------



## rton20s

NateZ28 said:


> I'm not in network mode nor do I have the amp turned off. I'm still using the stock POS door speakers for the time being. Maybe by turning the internal amp off disables the beeping. Or it could be possible you are using a different software version.


^^^Currently using this configuration.^^^



whitrzac said:


> knob...


^^^Currently using this control method.^^^

No beep on volume change.


----------



## krisfnbz

Did anyone write a cliffnote to this thread?....I have experience with the 880PRS, but dont really want to go through 91 pages....but will if I must.


----------



## whitrzac

krisfnbz said:


> Did anyone write a cliffnote to this thread?....I have experience with the 880PRS, but dont really want to go through 91 pages....but will if I must.



It is _thee_ point of diminishing return for a headunit.


----------



## NateZ28

Serieus said:


> how are each of you changing volume? it beeps when you use the buttons on the remote, i don't think it does with the volume knob on the faceplate


It's when using my steering wheel controls which use a Axxess Metra ASWC-1 to interface with the 80PRS. I guess the head unit sees it the same as the remote.


----------



## AndyInOC

I've said it before and I'll say it again. If you are that fixated on the beep, you obviously aren't playing the music loud enough.


----------



## NateZ28

AndyInOC said:


> I've said it before and I'll say it again. If you are that fixated on the beep, you obviously aren't playing the music loud enough.


I have pretty good hearing.

The beep comes from the head unit itself, does it not? It should be possible to disable the speaker within the device. If it keeps bothering me I may bust out the soldering gun.


----------



## ChrisB

AndyInOC said:


> I've said it before and I'll say it again. If you are that fixated on the beep, you obviously aren't playing the music loud enough.


That wasn't the only problem with my DEH-80POS!


----------



## Angrywhopper

krisfnbz said:


> Did anyone write a cliffnote to this thread?....I have experience with the 880PRS, but dont really want to go through 91 pages....but will if I must.


I agree a wiki of some sort would be nice.


----------



## ChrisB

Angrywhopper said:


> I agree a wiki of some sort would be nice.


Cliffs as reported by most on the forum - this is the most boner-riffic deck on the market. Nothing else in its price range will do what it does!

ChrisB cliffs - I hate it!


----------



## robtr8

Anyone able to update their Bluetooth firmware? I keep getting "error" at the last stage. Pioneer suggested unplugging the HU to forget everything (including my DSP settings) and then update it.


----------



## ChrisB

robtr8 said:


> Anyone able to update their Bluetooth firmware? I keep getting "error" at the last stage. Pioneer suggested unplugging the HU to forget everything (including my DSP settings) and then update it.


My Bluetooth update was a huge pain in the ass! Two of the three Bluetooth enabled laptops that I had DID NOT work. The oldest laptop of the bunch is the one that was able to perform the update!


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

Edit: a newer Asus and Dell did not work but the older dell did


----------



## MattMethods

I got this unit a couple of weeks ago, and man do I love it! It actually makes the stock speakers sound half decent!


----------



## krisfnbz

the beep that everyone talked about is not a big deal at all. I didnt even notice the beep until I thought about so many people complaining about it so I listened for it...its so minor. music is always playing so its never audible anyways. if people seriously deter from this unit because of that.... wow.


----------



## JVD240

krisfnbz said:


> the beep that everyone talked about is not a big deal at all. I didnt even notice the beep until I thought about so many people complaining about it so I listened for it...its so minor. music is always playing so its never audible anyways. if people seriously deter from this unit because of that.... wow.


The issue is not while listening to music. The issue is during tuning. If you're doing TA, EQ, etc by ear it is hard to notice the minute differences when the sound is interrupted by a beep.

I never found it to be a huge issue. But it was annoying, nonetheless.


----------



## ChrisB

JVD240 said:


> The issue is not while listening to music. The issue is during tuning. If you're doing TA, EQ, etc by ear it is hard to notice the minute differences when the sound is interrupted by a beep.
> 
> I never found it to be a huge issue. But it was annoying, nonetheless.


Exactly! That beep really pissed me off while the rta was running! It annoyed me while listening to music at a lower level too.

Oh well, it's water under the bridge as my DEH-80POS is nothing but a fading memory now!


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk


----------



## Golden Ear

I've owned nothing but pioneer headunits since the first one I installed in my '86 Cougar back in 2000. One thing I've always noticed is that even tho the volume dial goes all the way up to 50 or 60 you only have to turn it up to around 20 for it to get loud. On my 80prs, whether using the built in amp or my full system, I have to crank it up into the 40s and 50s for it to get loud. Is this how everyone's unit is or did I get a defective one?


----------



## robtr8

Golden Ear said:


> I've owned nothing but pioneer headunits since the first one I installed in my '86 Cougar back in 2000. One thing I've always noticed is that even tho the volume dial goes all the way up to 50 or 60 you only have to turn it up to around 20 for it to get loud. On my 80prs, whether using the built in amp or my full system, I have to crank it up into the 40s and 50s for it to get loud. Is this how everyone's unit is or did I get a defective one?


Yep, low 40's for an adequate rockin' experience. 50's is just insane.


----------



## NA$TY-TA

Golden Ear said:


> I've owned nothing but pioneer headunits since the first one I installed in my '86 Cougar back in 2000. One thing I've always noticed is that even tho the volume dial goes all the way up to 50 or 60 you only have to turn it up to around 20 for it to get loud. On my 80prs, whether using the built in amp or my full system, I have to crank it up into the 40s and 50s for it to get loud. Is this how everyone's unit is or did I get a defective one?


I run mine to the upper 50's almost ever time I use it. I run 62(Max) quite often also. The voltage difference between 61-62 is almost 1 Volt. I tested my 80 and it was a Clean unclipped signal all the way to 62. I set my gains accordingly. No big deal. I don't think I've used the amp in a deck in over 15 yrs


----------



## Golden Ear

Thanks for the info guys! I was starting to think I had a defective unit. I like the fact that there's so much fine volume adjustability but I hate the fact that when I mute the sound and push the volume up button I have to scroll all the way up to 40 instead of around 15. Lol


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

NA$TY-TA said:


> I run mine to the upper 50's almost ever time I use it. I run 62(Max) quite often also. The voltage difference between 61-62 is almost 1 Volt. I tested my 80 and it was a Clean unclipped signal all the way to 62. I set my gains accordingly. No big deal. I don't think I've used the amp in a deck in over 15 yrs



Check the subwoofer output. On the p99, all outputs are clean to 62 except for the subwoofer. The sub out is clean to 61, clips pretty ugly at 62. Thats with everything flat.


----------



## NA$TY-TA

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Check the subwoofer output. On the p99, all outputs are clean to 62 except for the subwoofer. The sub out is clean to 61, clips pretty ugly at 62. Thats with everything flat.


I recheck the sub channel. Thanks


----------



## GVF86

Hello, I'm still learning and interested in getting this HU.
I've read here that it can do 3 way+sub. (highs/mids/midbass/subw)
how can it do that out of 3 pair of RCAs output?

Thanks.


----------



## Golden Ear

GVF86 said:


> Hello, I'm still learning and interested in getting this HU.
> I've read here that it can do 3 way+sub. (highs/mids/midbass/subw)
> how can it do that out of 3 pair of RCAs output?
> 
> Thanks.


It does 2 way + sub active by itself. If you want 3 way + sub you need to add a dsp or run it with passive crossovers.


----------



## ramonesfan

GVF86 said:


> Hello, I'm still learning and interested in getting this HU.
> I've read here that it can do 3 way+sub. (highs/mids/midbass/subw)
> how can it do that out of 3 pair of RCAs output?
> 
> Thanks.


You can run 3-way passive with this deck, NP. The RCA's are for the amp(s) that you'll use. If you're just getting started, might want to start with a 5-channel amp to keep things simple. I put an Alpine PDX-V9 in my daughters car, works like a champ. Lots of options out there based on your budget & space available.

If you want to go active with the 3-way, that will take some additional stuff, couple of ways to do. But if you're still learning - stick with the passive set-up thru the crossovers and some amp power, you'll be very happy.


----------



## GVF86

ramonesfan said:


> You can run 3-way passive with this deck, NP. The RCA's are for the amp(s) that you'll use. If you're just getting started, might want to start with a 5-channel amp to keep things simple. I put an Alpine PDX-V9 in my daughters car, works like a champ. Lots of options out there based on your budget & space available.
> 
> If you want to go active with the 3-way, that will take some additional stuff, couple of ways to do. But if you're still learning - stick with the passive set-up thru the crossovers and some amp power, you'll be very happy.


Well, I'm not that a noob but I was asking cause I read it here and probably missunderstood it.

I installed an alpine PDX-V9 with some kicker SS8 Midbass, a set of kicker SS comps and a PG RSDc 10" on a friend's SUV... I used the amp crossovers (bandpass mode on rear outs for Midbass) front outs for mid/highs comps...

Kickpanels and midbass in the doors. It sounds very nice, I actually took it to an IASCA competition an got a nice score.

The thing is that car audio stuff is very expensive where I'm from (Colombia), signal processors are way to expensive for me. So I was thinking a set of 4" comps in the A pillar, Midbass in the doors and sub in the trunk with the DEH-80PRS. Is it possible to run it in network mode using a pair of outputs for the comps, another for the midbass and the last one for the sub? That way I'll be running active the midbass and woofer and passive the comps.

Thanks again.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

The lowpass for the mid and highpass for the high outputs will only go down to 1.25khz so keep that in mind.


----------



## rton20s

Hillbilly SQ said:


> The lowpass for the mid and highpass for the high outputs will only go down to 1.25khz so keep that in mind.


This part is key. The DEH-80PRS is great for what it does, but a few too many people are trying to get it to do things it just wasn't designed to do. If you want an installation more complicated than front + rear + sub or two way + sub, the DEH-80PRS might be a great foundation, but you're definitely going to have to find some additional equipment to accomplish your goals.


----------



## GVF86

rton20s said:


> This part is key. The DEH-80PRS is great for what it does, but a few too many people are trying to get it to do things it just wasn't designed to do. If you want an installation more complicated than front + rear + sub or two way + sub, the DEH-80PRS might be a great foundation, but you're definitely going to have to find some additional equipment to accomplish your goals.


I thought so... Ok then I'll have to same some cash to buy a processor and I could buy a much cheaper HU.

Which processor do you reccomend?


----------



## rton20s

GVF86 said:


> I thought so... Ok then I'll have to same some cash to buy a processor and I could buy a much cheaper HU.
> 
> Which processor do you reccomend?


That is a whole different can of worms. Search is your friend. Be prepared for at least as many opinions as there are options.


----------



## Golden Ear

rton20s said:


> That is a whole different can of worms. Search is your friend. Be prepared for at least as many opinions as there are options.


Ain't THAT the truth!

I just installed a RF 3Sixty.3 and am very happy with it.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

My new Mosconi 6TO8v8 is great!


----------



## rton20s

rton20s said:


> Be prepared for at least as many opinions as there are options.





Golden Ear said:


> I just installed a RF 3Sixty.3 and am very happy with it.





fahrfrompuken said:


> My new Mosconi 6TO8v8 is great!


Told ya.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

All external processors have their strong and weak points. Only way to find the one that's right for you is to read up on each one until your head explodes.


----------



## ErinH

Hillbilly SQ said:


> All external processors have their strong and weak points. Only way to find the one that's right for you is to read up on each one until your head explodes.



Truth. 

Another, cheaper option is to download the software for the DSPs and play around with it first.


----------



## GVF86

bikinpunk said:


> Truth.
> 
> Another, cheaper option is to download the software for the DSPs and play around with it first.


That my friend... is a great idea!

Thanks.


----------



## robtr8

You can still use the 80PRS in your application. While it's true that the lowest HP setting is 1.25K, you can set the slope to 6db and have the 4" comps run quit low. Don't forget that the 80PRS is also a pretty darn good HU. It doesn't make much sense to cheap out on a HU in favor of adding a processor.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

robtr8 said:


> You can still use the 80PRS in your application. While it's true that the lowest HP setting is 1.25K, you can set the slope to 6db and have the 4" comps run quit low. Don't forget that the 80PRS is also a pretty darn good HU. It doesn't make much sense to cheap out on a HU in favor of adding a processor.


Really good point... at the heart of any SQ system should be a solid HU. The processor will just make the tuning that much easier/better.


----------



## sqnut

If you're doing the processing down stream via a processor and using the hu only as a source, you won't hear a difference between the p80 and most any other $100 hu.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

sqnut said:


> If you're doing the processing down stream via a processor and using the hu only as a source, you won't hear a difference between the p80 and most any other $100 hu.


So you're saying that the HU (source material) matters not?


----------



## Thumper26

source is critical, i think he was implying you can get another deck with a equally sound output without the extra features. The jvc and kenwood decks are pretty good value for the money if you just need a clean output.

for a cheap dsp to do 3way plus sub, i'd look at an alpine 701 combo. there have been a few for sale on here pretty cheap. past that, look at a minidsp 6to8 or a pair of 2to4's.


----------



## CrossFired

I have an update to the whole KO punch to 117 thing. I'll start by saying that I bought two 80's the first week of release. I was tickled pink and overwhelmed with all the control over the audio. I went from Alpine to Pioneer about 10~12 years ago, because I had heard a pioneer 860, that blew my Alpine 9815 out of the water. Every 2 or 3 years I bought the next model of Pioneer, such as the 880 than 800 and 80. Had a 99 for less than one week, as it was stolen(inside job from Stereo shop). After having my 80's for a few weeks, I noticed on some music, a very hard/harsh midrange. I tried to tune it out, with no success. I tried Amps, Speakers and cables, but could never get away from the midrange issues. Some months buck I bought a Clarion 702, and gone was the hard midrange, but it also has a very muddy image. Next I got a Alpine 117 with a bad CD for $60. I only use USB, so a bad CD was no biggie. Last week I found an Imprint setup for cheap($60. with pxa-h100, mic and software). 

I can honestly say that the 117 (with imprint!)sounds better. Smoother, better stage, with a much larger sound(deeper & wider). The 80 is much better with USB file control, and handles bass much better(deeper, lower and way more controlled).

What I like and dislike about both.

Pioneer has a very cheap feel to it, very light and 90% plastic.
Pioneer has a great interface and file control like no other. Also plays .WAV files and can read a full 250 gb hard drive in about 10 seconds.

Alpine is very well built, with very bright display. It just feels of quality.
Has an ok interface, but is pretty bad with USB files, sort of slow & stupid.

On my next Overtime job, I may just buy a 99 and be done with it! I fear that Pioneer will come out with a 99 mark II, a short time after I buy the 99.:blush:

So I just wanted to follow up with a long term audition of both units.

IMO, it was not a knockout punch, as much as a draw.
If you've got a 117/imprint, don't think an 80 will blow it away.

I know this has come very late. Better late than never.


----------



## dallasneon

Interesting, I'm on the fence about switching. I currently have the 117 w/imprint.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


----------



## REGULARCAB

dallasneon said:


> Interesting, I'm on the fence about switching. I currently have the 117 w/imprint.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


Ive owned an 80prs for a month now, and I have played with a 117. If I was you I wouldnt switch if you already have one or the other. I would only upgrade and for either deck the next step up is a huge cost.


----------



## dallasneon

Thanks for the advise, is the pioneer 99 the step up? 

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


----------



## NateZ28

dallasneon said:


> Thanks for the advise, is the pioneer 99 the step up?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


Definitely. But not really worth it unless you want to go 4-way active IMO.
There are also other stand alone processors that outrank the 80 PRS, but again much more expensive and none will read directly phone an iDevice.


----------



## REGULARCAB

NateZ28 said:


> Definitely. But not really worth it unless you want to go 4-way active IMO.
> There are also other stand alone processors that outrank the 80 PRS, but again much more expensive and none will read directly phone an iDevice.


Exactly my thoughts, the 80prs is priced right at the point of diminishing returns. And for my cheap ass thats the best place to be.


----------



## spyders03

sqnut said:


> If you're doing the processing down stream via a processor and using the hu only as a source, you won't hear a difference between the p80 and most any other $100 hu.


Unless you have optical out, what are you processing downstream? I did notice the other day on pioneers website that most of their units have a 24 bit DAC. The 80 (at least mine) can go to 62/62 volume with zero clipping, which makes it really nice also. But I have put in a 360.3 and am questioning the quality of the source vs a standard single or double din with a 24 bit DAC anyways.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

spyders03 said:


> Unless you have optical out, what are you processing downstream? I did notice the other day on pioneers website that most of their units have a 24 bit DAC. The 80 (at least mine) can go to 62/62 volume with zero clipping, which makes it really nice also. But I have put in a 360.3 and am questioning the quality of the source vs a standard single or double din with a 24 bit DAC anyways.


I have a DEH-80PRS and the wife has an Alpine CDE-147BT. At this point, if I were to add a processor, I probably would not change my head unit. If I were to start fresh without already having a head unit and planned to use a processor, I would probably choose a top tier Alpine. Possibly an NAV or AV unit, just for the added features. Then you have to start comparing that to the price of tablet integration, which is a whole different question.


----------



## t3sn4f2

CrossFired said:


> I have an update to the whole KO punch to 117 thing. I'll start by saying that I bought two 80's the first week of release. I was tickled pink and overwhelmed with all the control over the audio. I went from Alpine to Pioneer about 10~12 years ago, *because I had heard a pioneer 860, that blew my Alpine 9815 out of the water.* Every 2 or 3 years I bought the next model of Pioneer, such as the 880 than 800 and 80. Had a 99 for less than one week, as it was stolen(inside job from Stereo shop). *After having my 80's for a few weeks, I noticed on some music, a very hard/harsh midrange. I tried to tune it out, with no success. I tried Amps, Speakers and cables, but could never get away from the midrange issues.* *Some months buck I bought a Clarion 702, and gone was the hard midrange, but it also has a very muddy image. Next I got a Alpine 117 with a bad CD for $60. I only use USB, so a bad CD was no biggie. Last week I found an Imprint setup for cheap($60. with pxa-h100, mic and software).
> 
> I can honestly say that the 117 (with imprint!)sounds better. Smoother, better stage, with a much larger sound(deeper & wider). *The 80 is much better with USB file control, and handles bass much better(deeper, lower and way more controlled).
> 
> What I like and dislike about both.
> 
> Pioneer has a very cheap feel to it, very light and 90% plastic.
> Pioneer has a great interface and file control like no other. Also plays .WAV files and can read a full 250 gb hard drive in about 10 seconds.
> 
> Alpine is very well built, with very bright display. It just feels of quality.
> Has an ok interface, but is pretty bad with USB files, sort of slow & stupid.
> 
> On my next Overtime job, I may just buy a 99 and be done with it! I fear that Pioneer will come out with a 99 mark II, a short time after I buy the 99.:blush:
> 
> So I just wanted to follow up with a long term audition of both units.
> 
> IMO, it was not a knockout punch, as much as a draw.
> If you've got a 117/imprint, don't think an 80 will blow it away.
> 
> I know this has come very late. Better late than never.


Have you tried......

NwAvGuy: What We Hear


_


----------



## CrossFired

Have I tried what? Reading yet another foolish blog?

Everyone has an opinion. I gave mine. If you don't care for it, then give us your opinion. Or maybe you have not owned a 80 and 117? and your just trolling.





t3sn4f2 said:


> Have you tried......
> 
> NwAvGuy: What We Hear
> 
> 
> _


----------



## krisfnbz

Everyone,

I have read in multiple threads this headunit does not distort at any volume all the way up to max. So with that being said(and hopefully true), what volume number do you guys set your gains at and why? I have mine set at 45 or so and thats solely based on the "75% rule"

Also, when setting time alignment, do you guys get good results with the mic? I dabble from time to time with having it OFF, and then set to 'front left' never using the mic at all... and to be honest they both sound really good to me. hard to choose what is best.


----------



## 2010hummerguy

krisfnbz said:


> Everyone,
> 
> I have read in multiple threads this headunit does not distort at any volume all the way up to max. So with that being said(and hopefully true), what volume number do you guys set your gains at and why? I have mine set at 45 or so and thats solely based on the "75% rule"
> 
> Also, when setting time alignment, do you guys get good results with the mic? I dabble from time to time with having it OFF, and then set to 'front left' never using the mic at all... and to be honest they both sound really good to me. hard to choose what is best.


I have my gains set so that 48-50 is the loudest I will play but this was by ear, no fancy o-scope in my arsenal


----------



## fahrfrompuken

That is a good point. If you are going to run to 62, and you have JL HD amps for example, then do JL's setup procedure at 62 on the HU. That way you can crank to 62 with no clipping.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## 1fishman

My gain set at 62. Zero cliping

TA front speakers, measured works good. Subs by ear. In my van the auto ta was way off. I think I'll try auto again with out the subs.


----------



## REGULARCAB

krisfnbz said:


> Everyone,
> 
> I have read in multiple threads this headunit does not distort at any volume all the way up to max. So with that being said(and hopefully true), what volume number do you guys set your gains at and why? I have mine set at 45 or so and thats solely based on the "75% rule"
> 
> Also, when setting time alignment, do you guys get good results with the mic? I dabble from time to time with having it OFF, and then set to 'front left' never using the mic at all... and to be honest they both sound really good to me. hard to choose what is best.


I found that the auto time alignment (for my install at least) added a **** ton of extra delay to every channel. But the interesting thing is the ratio was about the same as I got with my tape measure just everything was about doubled. I wonder if it is just a delay in the HU when it is testing.

I did find the auto EQ was crap. To my ears it just boosted EVERYTHING. I have yet to get my RTA mic (fingers crossed for my bday in the 21st cuz i know my wife bought it) I will be interested to see if once I flatten everything out if it sounds similar the auto eq.


----------



## a390st

When I looked at the eq curves, it boosted a couple of bands, but cut several. I recorded it, then ran it again to see if it was close. For me, it turned out really really close to the first.



The auto eq and ta really helped the stage. When I get a chance I'll measure to see how close the ta comes to the tape measure method.


----------



## krisfnbz

Thanks guys. I guess what I was trying to ask is... is there a difference between setting gains at say 45 vs maxed out at 62? I have no problem re-setting the gains at 50 or 55 or 62 etc, just curious if there is a difference.

Almost every HU that I have owned that had 'auto eq' I have never used that feature, I just did not like it.

However I have used time alignment a few times in the past and have always had mixed results. It's usually a pain in the ass to tweak, but thats the story of car audio.

When I set TA to 'front left' without ever having used the mic... I assume that is a default setting? Is there a huge difference between just keeping the TA set to front left, vs using the mic?

Additonally, I do not have an RTA, as im assuming most of us dont. I have never really been good with getting a flat response. This is likely the thing I need to most improve on in car audio. I was searching the other day and found this mic from dayton that plugs into the iphone: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton...e-for-iphone-ipad-tablet-and-android--390-810

I have the JL app that has a built in RTA.... but im assuming the iphone mic just wont cut it. Anyone have decent results with it? Additonally has anyone used the Dayton MIC. Seems like a really budget friendly way to improve the EQ...

sorry for the many questions. Im really excited about this headunit and I dont think I have ever had a system sound so good....and anything I can do to make it better im willing to do!

-Kris


----------



## rton20s

I have that mic, and use it in conjunction with the paid version of the Audiotools app on my iPhone 5. I haven't used it with the DEH-80PRS yet. I have used it on my wife's car with the Alpine CDE-147BT (9 band parametric). It is tougher to do the multiple positions and averaging as described in several threads in here, but it is great for getting a rough tune to a target curve and then adjusting by ear.


----------



## spyders03

That Mic is legit, and I also use it with audio tools

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


----------



## lurch

i have lived with the cde-117 for a year now and agree with much
of what crossfired says in comparison to the prs80. 
i paired up the alpine with a phx-100 for the extra
features. 

what i noticed :

the alpine never had enough treble for me. i even went
so far as to add a seperate 7 band EQ just to get some
boost at the top. 
the alpine never seemed to have enough bass either. 
over a few months i noticed that my amp gains were
getting higher and higher, almost to the top !
i would watch my volt meter dropping and knew i was
pulling LOTS of current. "shouldnt this system be louder ?"
i was thinking.

i remembered having much more top and bottom end
on my very ordinary 2 pre-out panasonic cd player bought for
100 dollars. this alpine was supposed to blow it away. 

maybe being a mechanic for 15 years and having too many
loud car stereos ( and getting old ) had hurt my ears to
the point of losing all my upper hearing range. 

it turns out to NOT be the case. 
the 117 was just too flat for me. 

as soon as i powered up the pioneer prs80 i could
hear what i was missing. 
the tweeters jumped to life and OMG the subs were suddenly
there ! 
i had made sure to dial the amp gains down before
firing up the pioneer, and glad i did as the pioneer
had MUCH more output. 

i bought the alpine pxa-100 module so i could do the
auddysy T/a and Eq, but after 5 laptops refused to
talk to it i gave up. it sounded very good with my own
parameters dialed in, but disappointing that the
thing seemed to refuse any laptop, and believe me
i did all the research and tried everything. 

i bought the pioneer for the same reason and the auto
eq & ta was a SNAP. no issues at all, worked as advertised. 

i miss the face of the alpine. that bio display is beautiful,
the pioneer does seem cheap in comparison and i am
constantly trying to decide which " display " to use. 
i think i have finally settled on " simple " with the white. 

the pioneer, to my ears, sounds better. 
it has much more " authority ", even with the eq settings
flat it plays better to me, the sound is solid. the simplicity of
the graphic eq is easier than the alpine, the
alpine has no graph and can take some head scratching
to fully understand, although having a graphic
AND a parametric is nice. too bad they only
give you 5 bands to work with in para and 7 in
graphic. more bands certainly would have helped. 

the alpine people expect us to buy seperate
modules for everything with the 117. 
pioneer gives us :
BT
streaming BT
auto eq + ta
good file management
2 usb ports
aux in options
SD card slot
TERRIBLE manual. 
and other things i know ive forgotten

the two things i would ask for on the pioneer :
a sub or bass control, like the alpine has
radio preset buttons
the bass control is not a big deal as i now use
the pot that came with the sub amp and i find
it more user friendly in the car, it is mounted
on the enclosure between the seats and accesible
EZPZ. 

i have noticed ( quite considerably ) that the current
needed to run my system has dropped and the system
plays louder with much less effort. 

it turns out that i actually like MY eq and ta settings
over the pioneer settings, so i dont use the auto
options anymore. but the pioneer makes it very
easy if i do want to retime or re-eq. 

bang for buck :
PIONEER wins this one. 
the alpine looks better and feels better but personally
is too flat sonically. 

BTW :
the alpine aslo beeps when making adjustments. 
i LIKE the beeps !
but i have never laughed SO hard reading anything
as " makeyouwannacommitsuicide " beep. 
thanx for the big belly laugh !

ok.... hope this all made some kinda sense. 
prolly hafta come back and edit cuz im typing
on my iphone.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

So I sold my DD Pioneer so I installed this unit until my new DD is here... I must say I am impressed with the sound. I have 3 RCAs run to the processor so I am running this HU in STD mode. As hard as it is to get used to a single DIN again, this units is very easy to use. I have an 80GB iPod hooked up and use an iPod Touch for Pandora too. I agree with comments above about the Alpines being flat sonically. They can be harsh out of the box and need to be EQ'd to compensate. The Pioneer is less harsh, and one could argue less accurate as a result. But that is just my opinion... take it for what it's worth.

My system is as follows...
HU: DEH-80PRS
Processor: Mosconi 6to8v8
Amps: Mosconi AS100.4, AS200.2, AS300.2
Speakers: HAT L1ProR2, L4SE, L4SE
Sub: JL 12w7

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## lurch

i would agree with you, the alpine being flat is more likely the
winner in the acoustically accurate dept. 

in a rolls royce, listening to orchestral music AND with
the audyssy module working i'll bet it would be heaven. 

my ears definately need the extra top and bottom for
the 80's & 90's rock i love. 
i want that top hat to really snap. 
i want those cymbals to really sparkle. 
i WANT that bass guitar in money for nuttin
to make my eyeballs hurt. 

obviously..... i'm not a purist. ( anymore )


----------



## handsomehwang

So I just went into Frys and they told me they stopped selling the 80PRS because Pioneer discontinued the model and a successor should be out. Is that BS or is he right because I can't find any evidence to his claims.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

I believe you talked to a Fry's employee who has no idea what he is talking about.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

rton20s said:


> I believe you talked to a Fry's employee who has no idea what he is talking about.


lol

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## handsomehwang

rton20s said:


> I believe you talked to a Fry's employee who has no idea what he is talking about.


Figured as much

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## CrossFired

Thats just fry's. Seems like there sales people are trained to make **** up on the fly.





handsomehwang said:


> So I just went into Frys and they told me they stopped selling the 80PRS because Pioneer discontinued the model and a successor should be out. Is that BS or is he right because I can't find any evidence to his claims.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## handsomehwang

I think he wanted me to buy a Kenwood since he said the top of the line is comparable


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## fahrfrompuken

As long as you buy something, anything they are happy.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## 1fishman

I've never used the standard mode on this unit so i have 2 questions on it.

1. Does the 80PRS provide independent EQ for each speaker channel in the standard/passive mode (4 channels + 2 sub channels) ?

2. Does Time Alignment work for all 6 channels in standard/passive mode?


----------



## theguy

thomasluke said:


> It seems to me that there has got to be some sort of a small speaker. It just come from the hu......somewhere.
> I have the thing in my hands holding it very closely to face trying to determine where exactly this beep is coming from.
> EDIT: If you were trying to find it, were would you look first?



Zombie post revival I know, but just went through this and found this thread helpful, wanted to pass on what I'd learned.

The service manual is currently available here

With the aid of the manual it's 30 minutes simple work to disassemble the unit and remove the piezo beeper at the front left of the circuit board; I just cut the posts with a pair of nail scissors.










This is of course all at your own risk: electrocution, voided warranty, etc.


----------



## JVD240

Very cool! Thanks for sharing, man. 

That always drove me bonkers on the PRS. Tons of features but mildly cheesy face and extra annoying beep.

Made tuning very frustrating at times.


----------



## Abeam47

I'm thinking very seriously about getting a 80PRS. I have one concern, I listen to a lot of audio books on long trips and stream them through bluetooth but I just saw this in the manual: "Playback continues even if you switch from you Bluetooth audio player to another source while listening to a song." Does this mean it doesn't automatically pause the track? Even my crap stock stereo does that. It would make sense if the audio player doesn't support AVRCP but otherwise this might even be a deal breaker for me.


----------



## spyders03

I don't know what you mean. If I stream Pandora to my stereo, the stereo can't pause my phone if I turn it off. Maybe I'm just not understanding. My audio books are on an SD card, so I haven't messed with Bluetooth a whole lot, maybe someone else can clarify better.

Swyped while Swerving


----------



## Abeam47

I use the Audible App. My current stock stereo pauses my phone (whether I'm playing from audible, Pandora, or MP3) if I change to FM input or shut it off. It's really convenient since there isn't a pause button I can just switch to the radio or shut off the stereo if I need to pause. My buddy's stock stereo works the same way. Seems logical since AVRCP can pause that it should pause the phone if you switch away from the it.


----------



## robtr8

The 80PRS would do that if you could get the BT update to stick. I haven't had any luck with that.

Your stock stereo doesn't have a flawless preamp section, 3 way active crossover, decent TI DAC section, 16 point EQ and T/A.


----------



## Abeam47

robtr8 said:


> The 80PRS would do that if you could get the BT update to stick. I haven't had any luck with that.


Ok cool I wonder if new units are shipping with the update. 



robtr8 said:


> Your stock stereo doesn't have a flawless preamp section, 3 way active crossover, decent TI DAC section, 16 point EQ and T/A.


Definitely not, I wasn't trying to say my stock radio was better. The audio quality is why I'm shopping for a replacement. I may wait and see what happens when the new AVH-4000NEX releases. It would be nice to have double din for easier user interface. Looks like the audio quality should be almost as good. 13 band eq, TI DAC, in the overview it says it has time alignment though I didn't see it in the spec list. Sounds like the spec list has been getting updates so we'll see what happens when it's released. 

I don't need the video processing for sure but it would be nice to have hd radio and flac.


----------



## WinWiz

Well I have zero problem pausing the bluetooth stream via the head unit in the bluetooth menu, so I don't se why it wouldn't auto pause when you select another source, because its definitely able to pause the stream, but I will have to check it...


----------



## robtr8

The iPhone will pause when it looses the BT connection like when you turn the car off but the track advance and Meta data is inop without this update that I can't apply.

Also if you turn on the car with the phone nearby, you get connected right away. But lets say you go turn on the car to warm it up and then come out with the phone to go some place, you need to connect with the phone. Stupid.


----------



## WinWiz

Bluetooth auto connects to my Samsung s3 mini with zero problems but I can't access the phonebook. I remember it used to work so I think maybee an android update broke it..? My Google nexus 7 sometimes auto connects but sometime it doesn't. I haven't tried updating the 80prs yet. 
In Denmark leaving your car with the key in the ignition is illegal! I actually got fined for it once, so I don't do it a lot... There are several apps for android made to auto reconnecting so maybe something similar exist for the closed garden phones


----------



## [email protected]

Quick question. I stream Bluetooth a lot with my Galaxy S3. Is there a way to get the song info to display on the radio while streaming? I only see the bluetooth icon and no song info.


----------



## WinWiz

No I don't think the mode the 80prs connects in allows this. But I could be wrong...


----------



## Hanatsu

WinWiz said:


> In Denmark leaving your car with the key in the ignition is illegal! I actually got fined for it once, so I don't do it a lot...


LOL. I remember that next time I head over to Denmark.


----------



## WinWiz

And now most cities in Denmark have banned idling for more than 3 minutes to!
I guess soon they will also make farting illegal..


----------



## lurch

unless you fart in the tank ...


----------



## WinWiz

Abeam47 said:


> I use the Audible App. My current stock stereo pauses my phone (whether I'm playing from audible, Pandora, or MP3) if I change to FM input or shut it off. It's really convenient since there isn't a pause button I can just switch to the radio or shut off the stereo if I need to pause. My buddy's stock stereo works the same way. Seems logical since AVRCP can pause that it should pause the phone if you switch away from the it.


I just tried this in my car, and the player on my samsung s3 mini pauses as soon as I change the source away from bluetooth on the 80-PRS, and starts playing again if I change the source back to bluetooth 
But for SQ you really should use .wav files on sd-cards, if your phone has sd-card this is quite handy. Personally I use a 320GB mini usb harddrive in the glovebox and this works very well.


----------



## WinWiz

The manual says the 16 band EQ works in 2db steps. Is this really true?


----------



## SoulMan76

WinWiz said:


> IPersonally I use a 320GB mini usb harddrive in the glovebox and this works very well.


What model do you use? Any problems with it? I was thinking of something similar with a small usb drive tucked right into the pocket of the dash kit. I use a few 32gb usb thumb and a 32gb micro sd, but I'd like to have it all on one drive and free up the other usb and sd slot.


----------



## DrewV

Just joined this site hopefully to get some help with my soon-to-arrive 80PRS. I am NOT a professional installer and I've only done basic head unit replacement and speaker upgrades before. Right now, my car stereo is just stock, with what appear to be pretty decent front components and rear coaxes.

For equipment, I have a 4-ch amp, a pair of Boston SR60's, and an IDQ10 sub. In my previous car, I had this set up as front components with passive crossovers for 2 channels, with the remaining channels bridged to the sub. The rears were fill only, powered from the head unit. This worked well.

I would like to do something similar using the 80PRS, but I would like to use as many of the custom features of the head unit as possible. With that in mind, I'm wondering if this be my best bet:

Use network mode. Install the Bostons in front, NO passive crossovers. Use 4-ch amp for L/R HIGH and MID outputs from 80PRS. Get mono amp for sub and connect one LOW output (Right channel only?) from the 80PRS to the amp. In this mode, can I connect the rears directly to the head unit for rear fill? Is it even worth it?


Also, since I do not currently have a separate sub amp, would I get decent results just using the 80PRS to drive the 4 HIGH and MID channels without using the sub? I know you can set the MID crossover to "PASS" so that it also covers the LOW frequencies. I wonder if this would be acceptable initially before I get a sub hooked up.

Second question: Is it preferred to use the head unit's crossovers instead of the component speaker system's included passive crossovers? Would I get better results using the head unit, or would the passives work just as well? The reason I ask is that I could also set up my system the same way as my old car: L/R components with included crossovers on 2 channels with the other 2 bridged for sub. This would mean that I would have to use "Standard Mode", right? I'm guessing this would not be as good.

I'm trying to make sense of the user's manual, but there are a ton of custom options and automatic features, so I can't be sure what features are available in what modes. Also, there are no "wiring examples", which would be handy to figure out the best installation options.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide. I hate being the "new guy" that looks stupid on forums, but I'm not sure I have any choice at this point. Be gentle.


----------



## lurch

GOOD questions. 

1st, what kinda car ?

2nd, which 4ch amp ?

i run mine in normal mode and it
sounds awesome nonetheless. 

your on the right track. 
knowing which car you have will
help with my recommendation.


----------



## DrewV

lurch said:


> GOOD questions.
> 
> 1st, what kinda car ?
> 
> 2nd, which 4ch amp ?
> 
> i run mine in normal mode and it
> sounds awesome nonetheless.
> 
> your on the right track.
> knowing which car you have will
> help with my recommendation.



2014 Subaru WRX

4-ch Amp is an older MTX684 (I love this amp -- it's a beast)

No clue on the mono amp for the sub yet. I figure something MTX, maybe a 150W MTX Road Thunder or something.

I know plenty of people just use the radio in Standard Mode, but I was hoping to get as much out of my system as possible without going to a full-bore high-end SQ custom install. I would like to use the components that I have (speakers, amps, etc.) and then make the most out of them with the head unit.

I guess my idea of using the RCA outs for fronts/sub and then using the rears for fill is probably not the best option, as it seems that the internal head unit amp should be turned OFF for best results. No problem, I can do without rears if necessary.

Thanks again guys.


----------



## lurch

alrightythen

go with the three way set up. 
tweeters on their own appropriate rca channels, remember that
the rca outputs on the deck are different when comparing
network mode to standard mode. read the manual !
no passive Xover. 

tweets wont need tons of power so turn the amp
gain down to start. 
actually turn ALL gains down to start, the
pioneer is pretty strong, definately stronger on
the rca output than my previous head unit was
and it was also rated at 5v preout. 

use left AND right channel rca for sub amp, regardless
if you are running mono. 

if you feel you really need fill later by all means
use the deck power. i doubt you will miss those
rear squawkers anyways. 

hope this helps.


----------



## SoulMan76

I agree with lurch above, its how i am running mine. No real fills, tweets on the high rcas, mids on the mid rcas and both sub rcas to a single sub but fed both l+r on the amp channels. Its the best way to keep all the settings accurate in relation to which speakers are hooked up to which rcas when you set the time alignment, crossover, phase etc. The smaller installation manual tells you how the rcas and speaker connections work in what mode.


----------



## Golden Ear

Welcome, Drew!
I ran mine in network mode for the best use of all the features. IMHO it will sound best if you use your 4 channel amp to run the comps active and get a separate amp for the sub.
Your other option is to use the headunit to power the tweets, 2 amp channels for the mids and bridge the other 2 amp channels for the sub. If you want to run active off the 80prs you can't have rear fill. Definitely hook up both sub outs to your sub amp. You can also try running the system passive with the hu in standard mode if you want rears and still have 16 bands of eq and time alignment. 
I say play with it and try all options to see which one you like the best. One of the best things about using network mode is that you can choose your crossover points rather than being stuck with the points of the passive crossover. The autotune feature is decent so maybe start with that and tweak from there.


----------



## rton20s

DrewV said:


> In this mode, can I connect the rears directly to the head unit for rear fill? Is it even worth it?


The simple answer is no. If you are using Network Mode then you really don't have the capability to run rear fill with this head unit. 




DrewV said:


> Also, since I do not currently have a separate sub amp, would I get decent results just using the 80PRS to drive the 4 HIGH and MID channels without using the sub?


Will it work? Yes. Will you be happy with it? No. While the mids you have might be capable of "playing" sub-bass frequencies, they will have much less output than a subwoofer. You may also end up damaging your mids with over-excursion. 



DrewV said:


> Is it preferred to use the head unit's crossovers instead of the component speaker system's included passive crossovers? Would I get better results using the head unit, or would the passives work just as well? The reason I ask is that I could also set up my system the same way as my old car: L/R components with included crossovers on 2 channels with the other 2 bridged for sub. This would mean that I would have to use "Standard Mode", right? I'm guessing this would not be as good.


You gain more flexibility with the DEH-80PRS crossover compared to your passive network. That is kind of the whole point of the unit. That being said, if you can't afford to pick up a dedicated mono amp for your sub right now, you can run the components in standard/passive mode and use your amp the same way you had in your previous install. Then, when you pick up a mono amp for the sub you can make the transition to network/active mode.


----------



## Golden Ear

Thanks for the back-up, Dustin


----------



## rton20s

Golden Ear said:


> Thanks for the back-up, Dustin


I seriously missed every single reply to his question before I posted. That is what I get for not checking to see if a new page is started. 

As soon as I saw all the replies I was going to just delete my post, but decided against it.


----------



## Golden Ear

:laugh:Lol I do the same thing! At least we're on the same page. I wouldn't delete anything.


----------



## zzoinks

Hi all,

No real questions yet but I wanted to drop in and say thanks for all the info in this thread. I am planning an install for my summer car and what was initially going to be a quick project to "replace crappy coax 6.5 with some proper 5.25 components" has turned into a little more. 

The car in question is a '91 VW GTI 16V (affectionately referred to as Velma). I've picked up the following over the past few months:

Alpine Type R 5.25" components 
Alpine Type R 12" sub (I was looking for a 10" but got a great deal on it so why not!)
Elemental Designs Nine.4 amp 
Alpine M500 mono amp for the sub.

I had initially planned on using the Nine.4 in 3 channel mode to power the components and a sub, but I scored a great deal on the Alpine amp and sub combo locally so plans changed. I then realized that I had a 4 channel amp and some components and started thinking about trying an active setup. Somehow I came across this head unit when doing crossover research. Since I never really liked the Kenwood HU that was in the car when I got it and I had some Amazon gift cards laying around I decided to give this HU a try. 

Anyway, that's my current plan. Still have to pick up wiring and wait for the weather to break so I can get the car out of winter storage. Should be a fun spring!

-Brett.


----------



## rton20s

You might want to keep your eye on the classified section. I'll probably have a NINe.2 going up for sale soon that would match your NINe.4.


----------



## zzoinks

rton20s said:


> You might want to keep your eye on the classified section. I'll probably have a NINe.2 going up for sale soon that would match your NINe.4.


Thanks for the head's up! 

That (or a Nine.1) was what I had originally wanted to get to go with the Nine.4. However I got a great local deal on the Type R sub but it’s a dual 4Ω and that wouldn't work as well with the Nine.2 as a dual 2Ω would. With my dual 4Ω sub I'd end up running the Nine.2 in two channel mode since it's not stable to 2Ω bridged (AFAIK), therefore wasting some of the available power. Probably better off going with the Alpine amp that I got as a package deal with the sub for now. In the future I’d love to have matching ED amps but for now this should work. 

Thanks,
-Brett.


----------



## lurch

one thing that has me scratching my head is the EQ1 and EQ2 settings. 

how OH how do we save EQ2 settings into the EQ1 memory ?

i did manage to save one graph, quite by accident, lucky that it is a curve that
sounds great. 

i must be missing something simple. 
i have played & played with this and i cannot " get " it. 

any help please ?


----------



## DrewV

lurch said:


> alrightythen
> 
> go with the three way set up.
> tweeters on their own appropriate rca channels, remember that
> the rca outputs on the deck are different when comparing
> network mode to standard mode. read the manual !
> no passive Xover.
> 
> tweets wont need tons of power so turn the amp
> gain down to start.
> actually turn ALL gains down to start, the
> pioneer is pretty strong, definately stronger on
> the rca output than my previous head unit was
> and it was also rated at 5v preout.
> 
> use left AND right channel rca for sub amp, regardless
> if you are running mono.
> 
> if you feel you really need fill later by all means
> use the deck power. i doubt you will miss those
> rear squawkers anyways.
> 
> hope this helps.



Great, thanks (and everyone else too). I think I am on the right track. I guess I didn't realize that mono amps had L/R inputs, but I just checked and yes they do!

So at this point I will take everyone's advice and install my system in the following way:

- Set up front components only (no rears)
- No passive crossovers (head unit only)
- Use Network Mode
- Use existing 4-ch amp for the L/R front components
- Use mono amp for sub
- Set head unit for 58-62 on the dial with amp gains at zero, then turn the gains up as needed to achieve reference levels
- Set up equalizer initially with AutoEQ and go from there

Sound right??


Also, SoulMan76 mentioned a "smaller installation manual" for this unit that shows some wiring diagrams. Does anyone have a link to this? So far, I have found the "regular" user's manual and a full repair manual. But no "installation guide" or anything like that. I would love to see a link to this. (EDIT: Found it: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_InstallationManual020712.pdf )

Again, thanks for the help. I try to educate myself before I ask stupid questions, but sometimes they slip out anyway! I'm really amazed at the quick and helpful responses I've gotten so far.


----------



## DrewV

lurch said:


> one thing that has me scratching my head is the EQ1 and EQ2 settings.
> 
> how OH how do we save EQ2 settings into the EQ1 memory ?
> 
> i did manage to save one graph, quite by accident, lucky that it is a curve that
> sounds great.



I watched this video:

How To - DEH-80PRS - Advanced Audio Settings - YouTube

It covers the EQ1 and EQ2 options. It might have what you need.

What is confusing to me is the CUSTOM1 and CUSTOM2 EQ settings. The video shows how to select one of the "standard" EQ settings, and then modifies one of them. When they go back to the previous menu, the "adjusted" graph is magically called CUSTOM1. That's fine, but how do you make CUSTOM2?? If you save the first CUSTOM1, does the next "modified" graph just magically become CUSTOM2?

I don't have the head unit yet to play with, but I'm just curious. I like to be prepared.


----------



## quality_sound

I think you have to be in Custom 2 when you start making changes. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## OU Alex

Thanks OP. I'm so behind on the latest & greatest tech its ridiculous. Looking for the right head unit at the moment and this is one of the 3 brands I'm considering. 

The 2nd or 3rd poster who referenced a Clarion, have they stepped their quality back up? Loved their stereos in my teens but when I got the NZ 500 I was very disappointed with it even before it crashed conveniently a month after the year warranty was up


----------



## zzoinks

DrewV said:


> Also, SoulMan76 mentioned a "smaller installation manual" for this unit that shows some wiring diagrams. Does anyone have a link to this?


I think this is what was referred to :
DEH-80PRS - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA

See "manuals and brochures" tab on the left and then "installation manual". 

Hope this helps, 
-Brett.


----------



## WinWiz

DrewV said:


> Just joined this site hopefully to get some help with my soon-to-arrive 80PRS. I am NOT a professional installer and I've only done basic head unit replacement and speaker upgrades before. Right now, my car stereo is just stock, with what appear to be pretty decent front components and rear coaxes.
> 
> For equipment, I have a 4-ch amp, a pair of Boston SR60's, and an IDQ10 sub. In my previous car, I had this set up as front components with passive crossovers for 2 channels, with the remaining channels bridged to the sub. The rears were fill only, powered from the head unit. This worked well.
> 
> I would like to do something similar using the 80PRS, but I would like to use as many of the custom features of the head unit as possible. With that in mind, I'm wondering if this be my best bet:
> 
> Use network mode. Install the Bostons in front, NO passive crossovers. Use 4-ch amp for L/R HIGH and MID outputs from 80PRS. Get mono amp for sub and connect one LOW output (Right channel only?) from the 80PRS to the amp. In this mode, can I connect the rears directly to the head unit for rear fill? Is it even worth it?
> 
> 
> Also, since I do not currently have a separate sub amp, would I get decent results just using the 80PRS to drive the 4 HIGH and MID channels without using the sub? I know you can set the MID crossover to "PASS" so that it also covers the LOW frequencies. I wonder if this would be acceptable initially before I get a sub hooked up.
> 
> Second question: Is it preferred to use the head unit's crossovers instead of the component speaker system's included passive crossovers? Would I get better results using the head unit, or would the passives work just as well? The reason I ask is that I could also set up my system the same way as my old car: L/R components with included crossovers on 2 channels with the other 2 bridged for sub. This would mean that I would have to use "Standard Mode", right? I'm guessing this would not be as good.
> 
> I'm trying to make sense of the user's manual, but there are a ton of custom options and automatic features, so I can't be sure what features are available in what modes. Also, there are no "wiring examples", which would be handy to figure out the best installation options.
> 
> Thanks for any help you guys can provide. I hate being the "new guy" that looks stupid on forums, but I'm not sure I have any choice at this point. Be gentle.


Hello DrewV. 
Im sure most in this tread will agree the Pio 80PRS is a great 3 way SQ headunit. If this is your first pioneer headunit PLEASE read about the pico fuse, BEFORE installing the 80PRS!
I'm not a car audio pro but I have tried my 80PRS in a lot of different configurations and cars.
The 80PRS is only 3 way (2way+sub=6 channels total), so with a sub I would recommend 2way front and no rear fill. 
I'm pretty sure you will get the best out of your current gear, using the headunits small internal amp to drive your tweets in network mode. Tweets are very sensitive so without the pas. xovers sucking power the internal amp will do fine.
Most components include a cheap xover, and passive xovers waste power, so ditch these and use the flexible digital xovers in the 80PRS. This will also allow you to use all the features of the 80PRS.
If you can find some specs about your old passive xover you can use them to estimate how to set the new xover settings in the 80PRS.

So in network mode connect the rear speaker wires from the 80PRS directly to your tweeters. Some people also use a small capacitor to protect the sensitive tweets from any DC, but it doesn't seem necessary to me, and I haven't blown any tweets yet...
Then you simply hook the mid and the low RCAs from the 80PRS to your 4 channel amp, remember the PICO fuse don't hotplug!
Then connect your midwoofers to the outputs of the channels you just connected to the mid RCAs and bridge the sub on the low output just like you did in your old car.
The 80PRS has a stereo/mono sub setting so you should always use 2 RCAs for the sub channel.
The auto time/eq features is really nice, but most people find the bass to low after the auto eq, so you will likely have to increase the sublevel after running auto tune.

You will likely get lots of different advices and opinions, but this is pretty close to the setup I settled on after a lot of experiments, thats why I recommend it.


----------



## WinWiz

DrewV said:


> I watched this video:
> 
> How To - DEH-80PRS - Advanced Audio Settings - YouTube
> 
> It covers the EQ1 and EQ2 options. It might have what you need.
> 
> What is confusing to me is the CUSTOM1 and CUSTOM2 EQ settings. The video shows how to select one of the "standard" EQ settings, and then modifies one of them. When they go back to the previous menu, the "adjusted" graph is magically called CUSTOM1. That's fine, but how do you make CUSTOM2?? If you save the first CUSTOM1, does the next "modified" graph just magically become CUSTOM2?
> 
> I don't have the head unit yet to play with, but I'm just curious. I like to be prepared.


The custom1 and 2 confused me to...
Custom1 setting is dependent on source, custom2 is not. So you can setup the custom1 one way for CD input and another way for USB, AUX or what ever source. The custom2 setting is the same for all inputs/sources, so if you adjust custom2 while listening to CD it will have the same effect when you change source/input.
As far as I know the preset eq modes can only be enhanced or lowered on an overall level so not useful for SQ.


----------



## WinWiz

So no one really knows if this headunit use 2 db steps when equalizing as stated in the manual ?


----------



## DrewV

WinWiz said:


> Hello DrewV.
> Im sure most in this tread will agree the Pio 80PRS is a great 3 way SQ headunit. If this is your first pioneer headunit PLEASE read about the pico fuse, BEFORE installing the 80PRS!
> I'm not a car audio pro but I have tried my 80PRS in a lot of different configurations and cars.
> The 80PRS is only 3 way (2way+sub=6 channels total), so with a sub I would recommend 2way front and no rear fill.
> I'm pretty sure you will get the best out of your current gear, using the headunits small internal amp to drive your tweets in network mode. Tweets are very sensitive so without the pas. xovers sucking power the internal amp will do fine.
> Most components include a cheap xover, and passive xovers waste power, so ditch these and use the flexible digital xovers in the 80PRS. This will also allow you to use all the features of the 80PRS.
> If you can find some specs about your old passive xover you can use them to estimate how to set the new xover settings in the 80PRS.
> 
> So in network mode connect the rear speaker wires from the 80PRS directly to your tweeters. Some people also use a small capacitor to protect the sensitive tweets from any DC, but it doesn't seem necessary to me, and I haven't blown any tweets yet...
> Then you simply hook the mid and the low RCAs from the 80PRS to your 4 channel amp, remember the PICO fuse don't hotplug!
> Then connect your midwoofers to the outputs of the channels you just connected to the mid RCAs and bridge the sub on the low output just like you did in your old car.
> The 80PRS has a stereo/mono sub setting so you should always use 2 RCAs for the sub channel.
> The auto time/eq features is really nice, but most people find the bass to low after the auto eq, so you will likely have to increase the sublevel after running auto tune.
> 
> You will likely get lots of different advices and opinions, but this is pretty close to the setup I settled on after a lot of experiments, thats why I recommend it.


Wow, that is great information. Thanks.

I was under the impression that it would be best to disable the internal amp while in network mode. I assumed that I would need all 4 channels of the external amp for the L/R front components, then I would need yet another amp for the sub. Is there any disadvantage to leaving the internal amp ON and connecting the tweeters directly to the speaker output wires on the head unit? I guess if this was equally good as an external amp connection, then it seems like everyone would be doing it, because it would save 2 channels and make the connections much easier and cleaner.

Obviously, I would prefer to just have ONE power connection to a single amp rather than run two separate power wires to two separate amps.

Can you explain more about the Pico fuse? I've never heard of it. (EDIT: Never mind. Google answered everything for me. I guess the simple solution is just to NOT disconnect your RCAs with the head unit powered up. I can handle that.)


----------



## WinWiz

Disabling the internal amp should in theory minimize noise inside the 80PRS but I don't think anyone is able to hear any difference with it on or off.
The internal amp is small so you won't have the same head room on the tweets but it should be plenty when running active, some people think the internal amp is even ok for mids at medium volume, tweeters require allot less power...


----------



## SoulMan76

zzoinks said:


> I think this is what was referred to :
> DEH-80PRS - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA
> 
> See "manuals and brochures" tab on the left and then "installation manual".
> 
> Hope this helps,
> -Brett.


Yeah, that's the one I meant. I said smaller manual, because I printed a half page size copy of the operations manual, then folded it in half so its like a booklet, and it's like a phone book compared to the installation manual..lol Pioneers manuals are kinda crappy IMO, but they get the job done I guess.


----------



## OU Alex

Didn't realize how long this thread was, or know this model was released in 2012.


----------



## DrewV

OU Alex said:


> Didn't realize how long this thread was, or know this model was released in 2012.


Yup, it's not the "latest and greatest" that you were looking for, but it may still be the best SQ bargain on the market.


----------



## DrewV

WinWiz said:


> Disabling the internal amp should in theory minimize noise inside the 80PRS but I don't think anyone is able to hear any difference with it on or off.
> The internal amp is small so you won't have the same head room on the tweets but it should be plenty when running active, some people think the internal amp is even ok for mids at medium volume, tweeters require allot less power...



Ok, that sounds fair. I'll definitely start out with your recommendation to use the HU internal amp to drive the tweeters directly.

I guess I also didn't know that the RCA output is running parallel to the speaker wires. That is, if the internal amp is ON, the RCAs are still being output. It would seem that if you were driving the speakers from the internal amp via the speaker wires, then why would they bother routing it to the RCAs as well? Aren't the RCAs really just used for external amp connections?

Like I said, I'm no expert, so there are bound to be stupid questions along the way.


----------



## lurch

DREW :

thankyou SO much for the youtube video. 
wish i had found that weeks ago. that clears
up the mystery behind the EQ1 EQ2 settings. 

the manual is vague at best. 

i remember pioneer having decent manuals, 
the manual for this deck is terrible.


----------



## DrewV

One more question: If I use the HU internal amp for the tweeters and my 4-channel amp for the mids + sub (bridged), how do I control the gains for the tweeters?? Obviously, I can control the mids & sub with the amp gain knob, but what about the HU internal amp?

I just don't want to hook things up and then blast the tweeters. And I don't think adjusting the EQ level is the answer.


----------



## nismos14

DrewV said:


> One more question: If I use the HU internal amp for the tweeters and my 4-channel amp for the mids + sub (bridged), how do I control the gains for the tweeters?? Obviously, I can control the mids & sub with the amp gain knob, but what about the HU internal amp?
> 
> I just don't want to hook things up and then blast the tweeters. And I don't think adjusting the EQ level is the answer.


There's this little thing on the headunit called volume control.... Just set the gains on the mids and sub appropriately to the volume of the tweeters. Then the volume adjustment knob will keep everything in line.


----------



## rton20s

DrewV said:


> One more question: If I use the HU internal amp for the tweeters and my 4-channel amp for the mids + sub (bridged), how do I control the gains for the tweeters?? Obviously, I can control the mids & sub with the amp gain knob, but what about the HU internal amp?
> 
> I just don't want to hook things up and then blast the tweeters. And I don't think adjusting the EQ level is the answer.





nismos14 said:


> There's this little thing on the headunit called volume control.... Just set the gains on the mids and sub appropriately to the volume of the tweeters. Then the volume adjustment knob will keep everything in line.


Actually, there is also a level adjustment available for High/Mid/Low. I wouldn't use it to bring the levels of your mids or sub down, but if your tweeters are to loud, you can bring their level down a bit to blend with the mids using this feature. Pages 24-25 on the manual describes how to do this.


----------



## DrewV

rton20s said:


> Actually, there is also a level adjustment available for High/Mid/Low. I wouldn't use it to bring the levels of your mids or sub down, but if your tweeters are to loud, you can bring their level down a bit to blend with the mids using this feature. Pages 24-25 on the manual describes how to do this.



Thanks. I think the level adjustment is what I need to use. I've always thought that when you set up a system, you set the volume knob at 90-95% of full capacity, then bring up the amp gain to reference level. But with the tweeters running off the HU, that doesn't seem possible.


----------



## rton20s

DrewV said:


> Thanks. I think the level adjustment is what I need to use. I've always thought that when you set up a system, you set the volume knob at 90-95% of full capacity, then bring up the amp gain to reference level. But with the tweeters running off the HU, that doesn't seem possible.


I suppose with the level adjustment on the tweeter, you could treat it almost like a gain since you are running them off of the head unit. Set your gains for your mids and subwoofer and then set your tweeter level. Start significantly negative (even as low as the minimum) and then bring the level up until it blends with your mids.


----------



## quality_sound

Level and gain are the same thing. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## DrewV

When I first install the HU, would there be anything wrong with simply using the internal amp in Network Mode and connecting it directly to the speakers? Aside from the added power of the external amplifier, I should be able to run it just the same, right? I mean, it seems as though the speaker wire outputs and the RCA outputs are duplicates, both being output at the same time. I should still be able to use all the same HU functions and features?

So when I get my amp installed, I can simply switch over the speaker output connections from the HU to the amp and I should be good to go, right?


----------



## Golden Ear

Nope.
Yup.
Yup.
Yup.


----------



## DrewV

Thanks for the response. I read through the manual and it looks like the answers are obvious, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into anything strange along the way.

The manual did state that the "speaker output wires are not used" with the external amplifier connection method. I wonder if they just mean that you don't connect them AND use the RCAs. Because my plan is to use the HU internal amp for the HIGH connections with the speaker wire outputs, and then use the MID and LOW connections via the RCAs with the external amp.


----------



## 1fishman

As far as the Mono sub hook up goes, i found that the Time Alignment on left and right sub are off by more than 20" in the mono mode. It didn't mater if I used auto TA, or by ear. This was only with one sub, and a mono amp in the van. 

I thought it was maybe my amp, or possible even my RCA's, but 2 other guys mentioned the exact same issue with the 80PRS. I ended up just using 1 sub channel split to the amp. It might have just been a bad batch issue, but I was just wondering if any one else ever experienced that?


----------



## quality_sound

DrewV said:


> Thanks for the response. I read through the manual and it looks like the answers are obvious, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into anything strange along the way.
> 
> The manual did state that the "speaker output wires are not used" with the external amplifier connection method. I wonder if they just mean that you don't connect them AND use the RCAs. Because my plan is to use the HU internal amp for the HIGH connections with the speaker wire outputs, and then use the MID and LOW connections via the RCAs with the external amp.


You can use both. They're just saying not to use both of the same range, i.e., both the high range rca and speaker outputs. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## DrewV

Ok, another question: Other than not being able to use the HU internal crossover adjustments, are there any other features that you cannot use with "Standard Mode"?? Seems like everything else (TA, AutoEQ, etc.) is available for full use with Standard Mode. Network Mode seems to only add the ability to connect High/Mid/Low separately and therefore generate its own crossover points. All of the other SQ features should be available in Standard Mode just like Network Mode.

Even further, it seems that a lot of people try to figure out the factory crossover points anyway, and just duplicate them in their setup. For a non-competition setup, wouldn't the passive crossovers be just fine?

So, if all of this is true, then my system would probably just use Standard Mode on the HU (with the internal amp still turned ON), connect the front and sub RCAs to a single 4-ch amp, use channels 1-2 for the fronts connected to RCAs using the passive crossovers, then connect the rears directly to the HU speaker outputs, and then bridge the amp channels 3-4 for the sub in the trunk.

So are there any flaws in my logic? Am I doing the wrong thing? I was originally all set to use Network Mode with crossovers set in the 80PRS, but it occurs to me that there should be nothing at all wrong with using the passive crossovers and it would allow me to use the rears.

Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## JVD240

It will "work" that way too.

Most people chose the PRS for all of it's additional tuning options. If you just want sound to come out then ya it will work.

You can't individually time align Mids/Tweets if you're using passive crossovers.


----------



## DrewV

JVD240 said:


> You can't individually time align Mids/Tweets if you're using passive crossovers.



Ahhh, that's one very good reason to go with Network Mode. As I said, being new to this game I didn't even think about that. Since my mids will be very low in the doors and my tweeters will be high up in the sail panels, I really do think that it would be helpful to have TA for each component.

Another weird thing is that the factory locations for the tweeters in the sail panels are angled directly toward the front seats. That is, the Right tweeter points at the driver seat and the Left tweeter points at the passenger seat. They aren't pointing toward the windshield or up toward the roof. So, sitting in the driver's seat, I'll hear the Left tweeter pretty far off-axis while the Right tweeter is almost directly ON-axis.

Is there any easy way to fix this? Can it be adjusted out with the HU? Or do I have to start hacking up my sail panels to re-orient the tweeters?


----------



## JVD240

DrewV said:


> Ahhh, that's one very good reason to go with Network Mode. As I said, being new to this game I didn't even think about that. Since my mids will be very low in the doors and my tweeters will be high up in the sail panels, I really do think that it would be helpful to have TA for each component.
> 
> Another weird thing is that the factory locations for the tweeters in the sail panels are angled directly toward the front seats. That is, the Right tweeter points at the driver seat and the Left tweeter points at the passenger seat. They aren't pointing toward the windshield or up toward the roof. So, sitting in the driver's seat, I'll hear the Left tweeter pretty far off-axis while the Right tweeter is almost directly ON-axis.
> 
> Is there any easy way to fix this? Can it be adjusted out with the HU? Or do I have to start hacking up my sail panels to re-orient the tweeters?


That's actually pretty good for factory aiming. Lots custom installs employ similar techniques... although a lot of installs put quite a bit of emphasis on aesthetics. 

Things like this are what make the PRS so powerful; Individual level control for each driver, separate L/R EQ and TA will greatly aid in overcoming installation related issues.


----------



## Hanatsu

JVD240 said:


> Things like this are what make the PRS so powerful; Individual level control for each driver, separate L/R EQ and TA will greatly aid in overcoming installation related issues.


Can't someone just sticky this on the the main page. L/R EQ is the most important feature in tuning a car, wish more would get that. If you look at the price, the 80prs is probably the best choise to attain a good sounding system relatively cheap.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


----------



## thaguy

has anyone else notice, that there is 2 versions of the 80prs? look wise.
the service manual indicates 3 separate versions.


early Version









Later Revised model.









or is it just an international thing?


----------



## nismos14

I don't think that was the case in the US.


----------



## kyheng

Looks the same for me.


----------



## quality_sound

They're the same. It's just the lighting color that makes it look off. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## WinWiz

1fishman said:


> As far as the Mono sub hook up goes, i found that the Time Alignment on left and right sub are off by more than 20" in the mono mode. It didn't mater if I used auto TA, or by ear. This was only with one sub, and a mono amp in the van.
> 
> I thought it was maybe my amp, or possible even my RCA's, but 2 other guys mentioned the exact same issue with the 80PRS. I ended up just using 1 sub channel split to the amp. It might have just been a bad batch issue, but I was just wondering if any one else ever experienced that?


I have been trying a lot of different sub setups with my 80PRS, and I have a similar problem:
With just one dvc sub the auto ta correctly detects the subs distance as 148 cm. but with 2 subs installed running stereo in the same IB the left side sub is still correctly detected at 148cm but the right side is detected as 250 cm. away, when its really only 153 cm away from the mic.
I figured standing waves inside my car screw up the auto ta, so I tried manually setting both subs at 148cm but I ended up just parallel connecting the 2 dvc subs in a mono setup. This way I get more power from my small RF amp and the auto ta seems to work correctly


----------



## WinWiz

SoulMan76 said:


> What model do you use? Any problems with it? I was thinking of something similar with a small usb drive tucked right into the pocket of the dash kit. I use a few 32gb usb thumb and a 32gb micro sd, but I'd like to have it all on one drive and free up the other usb and sd slot.


I think its a WD Scorpio Black SATA 2.5" Notebook Hard Drive(WD3200BEKT). I have it installed in a aluminum USB 2.5" SATA External Case inside the glovebox.
The 80PRS index my music collection very fast, so I use my ssd for booting windows... 
Any hard disk with usb should work, but I highly recommend a usb powered drive, its just a lot easier with only one cable for data and power.
Only problem was I had to use a special program to format the drive as large FAT32, as windows doesn't natively support this.

And btw the 80PRS supports 48Khz WAV files


----------



## Hanatsu

WinWiz said:


> I have been trying a lot of different sub setups with my 80PRS, and I have a similar problem:
> With just one dvc sub the auto ta correctly detects the subs distance as 148 cm. but with 2 subs installed running stereo in the same IB the left side sub is still correctly detected at 148cm but the right side is detected as 250 cm. away, when its really only 153 cm away from the mic.
> I figured standing waves inside my car screw up the auto ta, so I tried manually setting both subs at 148cm but I ended up just parallel connecting the 2 dvc subs in a mono setup. This way I get more power from my small RF amp and the auto ta seems to work correctly


That's why I love auto tune...

150 or 153cm doesn't matter. Just run them as mono.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


----------



## WinWiz

Hanatsu said:


> That's why I love auto tune...
> 
> 150 or 153cm doesn't matter. Just run them as mono.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


Its not 150 vs 153 but 150 vs 250 cm!

And yes running subs bridged in mono was my simple fix.


----------



## Hanatsu

Nah I wondered if you were running subs in stereo just because of the 3cm PLD 

Guess you don't.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


----------



## DrewV

quality_sound said:


> They're the same. It's just the lighting color that makes it look off.
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk



Can I just interrupt the discussion here to state that your avatar is among the best I've ever seen.

That a$$ is outrageous.

Carry on.


----------



## di_sjo

Sorry i've not had chance to go through 61 pages.. can anyone confirm 100% that it is not possible to disable the beeps on this head unit? It's nasty when you are trying to set up EQ/TA etc. - it distracts your ears whilst you are trying to listen to subtle differences.

Maybe a future firmware could fix?


----------



## NateZ28

di_sjo said:


> Sorry i've not had chance to go through 61 pages.. can anyone confirm 100% that it is not possible to disable the beeps on this head unit? It's nasty when you are trying to set up EQ/TA etc. - it distracts your ears whilst you are trying to listen to subtle differences.
> 
> Maybe a future firmware could fix?


Fix:
1. Remove screws from head unit and open
2. Find small speaker emitting beeps
3. Remove power wire from speaker
Problem solved.


----------



## di_sjo

NateZ28 said:


> Fix:
> 1. Remove screws from head unit and open
> 2. Find small speaker emitting beeps
> 3. Remove power wire from speaker
> Problem solved.


I'm not adverse to doing that, if it's a serious solution?


----------



## quality_sound

Mine only beeps when using the SWC, with the faceplate it's silent. I can't say what the remote does. The battery for mine is dead. It the remote is, not sure until I get the car back and get a new battery for the remote. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## NateZ28

di_sjo said:


> I'm not adverse to doing that, if it's a serious solution?


I've dug through the settings and cannot find any solution other than that. I'm running the latest firmware. I prefer to not crack open the unit and "Void the warranty".


quality_sound said:


> Mine only beeps when using the SWC, with the faceplate it's silent. I can't say what the remote does. The battery for mine is dead. It the remote is, not sure until I get the car back and get a new battery for the remote.
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


Mine beeps any time I adjust the volume remotely, using my steering wheel controls. It's obnoxious.


----------



## di_sjo

I am talking about the menu navigation beeps, not for things like the volume control.


----------



## NateZ28

di_sjo said:


> I am talking about the menu navigation beeps, not for things like the volume control.


I understand but there is no way to disable either of them.


----------



## t3sn4f2

NateZ28 said:


> Fix:
> 1. Remove screws from head unit and open
> 2. Find small speaker emitting beeps
> 3. Remove power wire from speaker
> Problem solved.


Sound like a plan. But I'd rather slap a piece of CLD over the emitter hole. It's probably one of those cap looking speakers. Does anyone know for sure that the sound is from the unit itself or from the speakers?


----------



## DrewV

It's coming from the internal piezo buzzer. There is a DIY for the Pico fuse somewhere and you can just use that to get into the unit to disable the buzzer if you want.

I like the idea of covering it with some CLD. The buzzers don't put out a ton of sound, and covering the hole would do it. You could even throw some epoxy down in the hole to fill it. But either way, you'd have to open up the unit to fix it.

Most people just ignore it.


----------



## DrewV

I have another question:

Right now, I am planning to run 80 WRMS to the front woofers and power the tweeters off the HU internal amp, then run 240 WRMS to an IDQ10 sub. I think this will work out well.

But if I were to use the 80PRS internal amp to power my tweeters up front, but supplied more power to the woofers (say, a full 160 WRMS), would I have problems trying to balance them? That is, would the woofers just tend to overwhelm the tweeters, or would the HU internal amp be able to keep up?

I'm curious about this because I may bridge my 4-ch amp to power the woofers, and keep the tweeters on the HU internal amp, then add another mono amp (500WRMS to an IDQ10) for the sub.

I'm no expert, but I don't want to have to add a separate sub amp if I can't take advantage of the extra power to the woofers. I just have no feel for what kind of power each of these components can handle and still sound like a "system" together.


----------



## rton20s

I think that it would probably be very equipment dependent. Where are the tweeters crossed over? Do the mids and tweeters both have the same resistance? Do you have accurate, comparable sensitivity ratings for the tweeter and mids? 

With enough information, you can get a rough estimate of how many dB each driver should be able to produce. Knowing that you don't need as many dB in the higher frequencies, you will probably be ok. But you might try it and notice that you aren't happy with the tweeters off of the head unit. 

Worst case scenario, you give it a shot and decide you aren't satisfied. Go pick up a dedicated subwoofer amp, or swap the 4 channel for a 5 channel amp.


----------



## DrewV

rton20s said:


> I think that it would probably be very equipment dependent. Where are the tweeters crossed over? Do the mids and tweeters both have the same resistance? Do you have accurate, comparable sensitivity ratings for the tweeter and mids?
> 
> With enough information, you can get a rough estimate of how many dB each driver should be able to produce. Knowing that you don't need as many dB in the higher frequencies, you will probably be ok. But you might try it and notice that you aren't happy with the tweeters off of the head unit.
> 
> Worst case scenario, you give it a shot and decide you aren't satisfied. Go pick up a dedicated subwoofer amp, or swap the 4 channel for a 5 channel amp.



I actually haven't installed anything yet, but I'll try to supply more information:

1) Component set is JBL MS-62c, which is around 90dB sensitivity and 160 WRMS power handling. I don't know much else about the set.

2) Crossovers will be around 63-80 LP and 2k HP, probably 12dB rolloff.

3) I actually already own the sub amp, but I'm shooting for simplicity for the install and I'd prefer not to use it if there will be no benefit. But if the HU internal amp can actually keep up with the full 160 WRMS to the woofers and 300+ WRMS to the sub, then I would probably go ahead and bridge the 4-ch amp and go to the trouble to hook up a distro block for both amps.

4) I agree -- if I go ahead and set it up with the 4-ch amp to the woofers + sub (bridged) and don't like it, then I can always add the sub amp separately. But I guess if the educated folks around here say that the HU internal amp is powerful enough to keep up with the added power of the bridged 4-ch and separate mono sub amp, then I would probably spring for the extra work required to add the distro block and extra wiring for the separate sub amp.

Since I haven't installed anything yet, I still have the luxury of asking for opinions that I can use to help me make my decision.

Thanks everyone.


----------



## hykhleif

Guys I don't know why I can't get auto eq to work when I press it it tells me to set fl/fr and I don't know what that means. 

I am connected passively to my jbl msa1004 focals krx3 and audison lrx1.1 for my subs

Also I don't get the full menu I see on YouTube I am really not understanding the manual either

Can someone shed alight how to auto eq

Also what is this internal amp and where is that setting for it, man this head unit is complicated and has a bad written manual


----------



## BlackHHR

hykhleif said:


> Guys I don't know why I can't get auto eq to work when I press it it tells me to set fl/fr and I don't know what that means.
> 
> I am connected passively to my jbl msa1004 focals krx3 and audison lrx1.1 for my subs
> 
> Also I don't get the full menu I see on YouTube I am really not understanding the manual either
> 
> Can someone shed alight how to auto eq
> 
> Also what is this internal amp and where is that setting for it, man this head unit is complicated and has a bad written manual


Turn the power off . Then press the master control knob in . Another menu will pop up . There you will find your choices on turning off/on the internal amp .


----------



## BlackHHR

hykhleif said:


> Guys I don't know why I can't get auto eq to work when I press it it tells me to set fl/fr and I don't know what that means.
> 
> I am connected passively to my jbl msa1004 focals krx3 and audison lrx1.1 for my subs
> 
> Also I don't get the full menu I see on YouTube I am really not understanding the manual either
> 
> Can someone shed alight how to auto eq


What mode are you in ? Network or standard 
Have you used all of the rca outputs ? 
If I am not mistaken , you must have an amp channel for the front left/right ,rear left/right and sub for auto eq to work . So you would need 5 channels of amp to make it happen .
So from the head unit 
1 pair of rca for front left and right to the amp 
1 pair of rca for rear left and right to the amp 
1 pair of rca for the sub amp


----------



## quality_sound

hykhleif said:


> Guys I don't know why I can't get auto eq to work when I press it it tells me to set fl/fr and I don't know what that means.
> 
> I am connected passively to my jbl msa1004 focals krx3 and audison lrx1.1 for my subs
> 
> Also I don't get the full menu I see on YouTube I am really not understanding the manual either
> 
> Can someone shed alight how to auto eq
> 
> Also what is this internal amp and where is that setting for it, man this head unit is complicated and has a bad written manual


FL/FR is the seating position. You have to select one to use the Auto Tune. It's in the audio settings menu labeled as "POSITION". Set it to FL (Front Left).


----------



## hykhleif

guys for auto eq do i need a cd to use it, as mine did not come with a cd?


----------



## BlackHHR

hykhleif said:


> guys for auto eq do i need a cd to use it, as mine did not come with a cd?


No, plug in your mic . Place mic in desired position . Activate auto eq , exit vehicle and allow the unit to calibrate the system . It will take about 5 to 10 minutes to complete .


----------



## hykhleif

guys I don't know why this auto eq does not work for me

I put in the mic in the front aux, and the I go to auto eq and press the MC bottom and it keeps telling me to set auto eq and I don't what it means by that

I am using my unit in standard mode, where the focals krx3 are connected to my jbl msa1004 and my sub to my audison lex 1.1

can that be related to my jbl msa1004 amp I really want to try this auto eq thing

or maybe I am missing something here, as when I looked at my jbl I see the installers used only 1 rca for channel 1 and 2 of the jbl. I am using a krx 3 focal, so honestly i am confused what they did in the installation.

The reason for this strange setup might be due to the fact that we were aiming to do a quasi install, by adding a third amp audison lrx 2.9, but for some reason the audison lrx 2.9 did not work as it had a malfunction, so they disconnected that amp and connected everything to the jbl, but I am only seeing 1 rca going into the JBL msa1004. So I understood from them in quasi setting the krx3 woofers were supposed to be installed directly to the audison lrx2.9, i don't know why they left the rca of the woofers not connected to jbl. I know they told me its a temporary thing, but I am not knowing what exactly is going on with my current set up, all I see is only 1 rca connected to channel 1 and 2 of the jbl.

I was wondering if that is the reason why auto eq does not work


----------



## golf29

ran the auto TA/EQ ... the distances to the mids and tweets are close to the measurements using a tape measure (off by 1-2 inches), but the sub measurements are always measured at 160inches even if i move the sub at different locations at the trunk. car is a subaru forrester. hard to measure the actual distance from the headrest to the sub since the rear seat is blocking the line of measure, but i don't think it's 160 inches.

for compact suv owners, just want to ask what are your measurements for auto TA/EQ that the 80PRS is computing?

i read the manual that crossover frequencies for the sub should be adjusted to the highest frequency or turn off the LPF when doing auto TA. im guessing this is the reason for inaccurate readings? ...

or is 160cm just about right since the concept of a good sub is it should be felt and not heard.


----------



## WinWiz

Hey DrewV. 
I'm powering my SB29RDCN tweets [email protected] with the internal amp and have about 2x180 watts from a bridged 4 channel amp to my dynaudio 17w75 midbass drivers. 
I have thought about getting another small amp for the tweets but decided its not worth it for me. I believe these old dyns has a very low sensitivity, so your milage may vary.
Try it and please report back cause i'm curious


----------



## WinWiz

BlackHHR said:


> If I am not mistaken , you must have an amp channel for the front left/right ,rear left/right and sub for auto eq to work . So you would need 5 channels of amp to make it happen .
> So from the head unit
> 1 pair of rca for front left and right to the amp
> 1 pair of rca for rear left and right to the amp
> 1 pair of rca for the sub amp


No actually you can run autoeq with no sub!


----------



## WinWiz

NateZ28 said:


> Mine beeps any time I adjust the volume remotely, using my steering wheel controls. It's obnoxious.


As far as I remember you can adjust the time alignment without beeps if you use the remote.

Honestly I didn't notice the beeps before I read people complaining about it in this thread (Yes I actually read the entire tread!)


----------



## WinWiz

BlackHHR said:


> No, plug in your mic . Place mic in desired position . Activate auto eq , exit vehicle and allow the unit to calibrate the system . It will take about 5 to 10 minutes to complete .


Actually I prefer to sit in my normal position (drivers seat) with the mic. placed in my forehead while running the auto eq/ta. Because I believe the acoustic properties change when the cabin is emty. But of course you have to sit still and be quit


----------



## lurch

turn on ignition, turn prs80 off. 
plug in mic. 
press and hold " eq " ( right side of volume knob )
a count down will start. 
10 seconds and eq-ta will start automatically. 

hope this helps.


----------



## WinWiz

golf29 said:


> i read the manual that crossover frequencies for the sub should be adjusted to the highest frequency or turn off the LPF when doing auto TA. im guessing this is the reason for inaccurate readings? ...
> 
> or is 160cm just about right since the concept of a good sub is it should be felt and not heard.


I think the manual is talking about disabling any LPF in your sub amp. 
Our Pio automatically adjust the bass/mid xover and relative volume but amps with built in xovers, as most have these days, can screw this adjustment so disable amps xover or set at max freq if you can't disable it.
If your Pio thinks your sub distance is 160 there is most probably a good reason for that. One possible reason could be bad reflections, or the mic. detecting the vibration in your car instead of the sound. Sound waves in air and vibrations transferred in metal or other materials, does not have equal speed.
So I think you should try some different distance settings both higher and lower than 160, but its likely that 160 is what sounds best in your car.


----------



## quality_sound

WinWiz said:


> No actually you can run autoeq with no sub!


That is correct. I run mine in a F/R setup, with no subs, using the stock speakers and it works fine. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## golf29

WinWiz said:


> I think the manual is talking about disabling any LPF in your sub amp.
> Our Pio automatically adjust the bass/mid xover and relative volume but amps with built in xovers, as most have these days, can screw this adjustment so disable amps xover or set at max freq if you can't disable it.
> If your Pio thinks your sub distance is 160 there is most probably a good reason for that. One possible reason could be bad reflections, or the mic. detecting the vibration in your car instead of the sound. Sound waves in air and vibrations transferred in metal or other materials, does not have equal speed.
> So I think you should try some different distance settings both higher and lower than 160, but its likely that 160 is what sounds best in your car.


thanks .... yes my amp has a lpf crossover, i'll try to set it to max then run auto TA to see if there's a difference

guys, for comparison, what measurement does your 80prs give you for lows for your compact suv's? ....


----------



## WinWiz

My observations about auto ta/eq. 
When I run the auto eq/ta my sub(s) are always low passed at 80hz and my midbass high passed at 125 Hz, doesnt matter if I use 1 or 2 subs. Its sound nice but its rather obvious that the bass is coming from my IB in the back of the car and i don't like that. Im guessing its caused by my old subs frequency response increasing a lot from about 30Hz to 125Hz so even with a 24db lowpass @ 80Hz freq. response becomes flat to 125Hz. 
So I would wish there was a way to run auto eq with a xover of 80Hz, but that doesn't seem possible, and I'm bad at doing manual eq...
Also the Auto ta/eq does not change the xover from mid-bass to tweets. I guess this is done by design so people won't sue pioneer for crossing the tweets to low and destroying them in the process?
Now I can't remember what xover the auto ta/eq chose the first time I used it before manually choosing [email protected]

Im I the only one noticing this behavior?


----------



## Hanatsu

My observation with autoEQ and auto T/A is that they sucks xD

The reason it can't set the sub right is probably because it might be programmed to find a high Q peak (high frequency output). Run the subwoofer without lowpass and see if it can find the proper distance.


----------



## WinWiz

Hanatsu said:


> My observation with autoEQ and auto T/A is that they sucks xD
> 
> The reason it can't set the sub right is probably because it might be programmed to find a high Q peak (high frequency output). Run the subwoofer without lowpass and see if it can find the proper distance.


Yes im sure it does suck compared to your professional measuring equipment, but with no measuring equipment and very bad manual tunning skills, I think its great for a base to start "fine tuning" from.

The auto ta on my subs is very weird because both my subs are about the same distance of 150-155 cm, and one is detected 99% correct while the other sub is way off, like 250cm or something like that.
I'm using 2 old DVC subs so I can adjust the total Q, I can definitely hear a difference, but it doesn't seem to change how the pio sets the xover.
I was thinking it might be related to my old 4 channel amp, but switching the channels around doesn't change anything. 
But I will have to try it again with no lowpass.


----------



## WinWiz

thaguy said:


> has anyone else notice, that there is 2 versions of the 80prs? look wise.
> the service manual indicates 3 separate versions.
> 
> 
> early Version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Later Revised model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or is it just an international thing?


The "early" version definitely seem to have a green SRC button ??


----------



## WinWiz

Regarding the available firmware update from pioneer.
Pioneer state there is no reason to upgrade if you don't use Iphone5 or other IOS6 device?
But its supposed to enable Bluetooth AVRCP right?
I do believe my android phone support avrcp so will this update enable avrcp version 1.3 with metadata on android devices?
Or is it really just a bugfix related to IOS6?


----------



## golf29

Hanatsu said:


> My observation with autoEQ and auto T/A is that they sucks xD
> 
> The reason it can't set the sub right is probably because it might be programmed to find a high Q peak (high frequency output). Run the subwoofer without lowpass and see if it can find the proper distance.


yes ... it's also mentioned in the manual that if you're using an active sub, you need to turn the LPF off or set it to its highest value before running auto TA

tried it without LPF it gave different results. i'll assume this is more accurate since it tried moving the sub at different locations in cargo trunk (far left, far right, near left, near right) with the LPF turned on and the auto TA always gave 160inches readings regardless of the location. and the differences between the near left and far right positions is at least 35-40 inches.

with LPF enabled @120hz LL / RL = 160
without LPF LL = 139 / RL = 139.5


----------



## quality_sound

WinWiz said:


> The "early" version definitely seem to have a green SRC button ??


If you look closely, all the buttons are green. They're just lit in that pic. The radios are the same. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## hykhleif

before i run auto eq, what audio settings in the pioneer shall i dial in

my focal krx3 are connected to jbl msa1004 and the hpf is set off on the jbl amp ( front stage only )

the 2 arc audio subs are connected to the audison lex 1.1

my current setup is passive and on the pioneer in standard mode


----------



## rton20s

Set your initial crossover points. The head unit will leave your high HPF and mid LPF alone, but will make adjustments to the mid HPF and low LPF.


----------



## hykhleif

I did the auto eq and it gave me strange readings that I am sure is not the distances of my speakers and subs with big differences

my question is when you try autoeq do u turn the engine fully on or just the switch on because when I tried with the engine fully turned on it gave me outside noise error


----------



## Golden Ear

Engine off


----------



## hykhleif

rton20s said:


> Set your initial crossover points. The head unit will leave your high HPF and mid LPF alone, but will make adjustments to the mid HPF and low LPF.


sorry can tell me again what u mean by initial crossover points, do u mean on the HU or the amp. And if on HU what do u mean exactly


----------



## krisfnbz

Do any of you guys think the voltage reading on the face in inaccurate from time to time? There will be times where I am jamming on the highway full tilt and it reads 11.9-12.1v at 3krpm. Also will sometimes read that in slower city driving traffic. It's weird. for a few minutes it will read that and then jump back up in the 13's out of nowhere.

stock 2002 civic no big 3. Im running around 1k watts with 1/0 to the rear kinetik 2400 that is wired directly to the stock battery. Amps are getting power from the spare battery.

I would say 90%+ of the time it seems accurate and reads around 13.6-13.9v. And I drive almost 2 hours a day. I figured with the 1/0 run to the rear and a kinetik 2400 that would be more than enough to sustain a 1k system even at idle.....even with a small civic alternator. am I wrong?

I know I need to do the big 3...just been way too cold lately/lazy. Do you think I actually have an issue, or is it just the voltage reader in the 80prs is just off sometimes?


----------



## WinWiz

My 80PRS voltage monitor is accurate so I guess your generator is going bad 
1 Kwatt is a lot, especially if its low efficient class AB, and more than your stock electrical system is designed for, so I would recommend replacing with Heavy Duty components.
When my dual subs was wired for <2 ohm bridged it would drain my battery a lot faster, so this is also a factor to think about...
How did you connect the kinetek 2400 ?
You should never parallel 2 batteries thats not same model and age...


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> sorry can tell me again what u mean by initial crossover points, do u mean on the HU or the amp. And if on HU what do u mean exactly


With a nice head unit like the 80prs you probably wanna use its xovers, so disable any external xovers, and set the internal xovers according to your speaker specs.


----------



## Hanatsu

hykhleif said:


> sorry can tell me again what u mean by initial crossover points, do u mean on the HU or the amp. And if on HU what do u mean exactly


http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_OperationManual020712.pdf

Read page 19, 23, 29-31



> !
> When this unit is connected to a power amp with an LPF, turn this LPF off before performing auto TA and EQ. Also set the cut-off frequency for the built-in LPF of an active subwoofer to the highest frequency.





> When connecting tweeters, please confirm the tweeter’s usable frequency range. When you set the cut-off frequency, set higher than the lowest usable frequency of the tweeter.


----------



## Babs

Like about all "auto tuning" devices (MS-8 for example), it expects that you use the head unit's internal crossovers only for all filtering. Use no external active crossovers, with caution to set LPF and HPF's correctly in the 80PRS so you don't blow your tweeters, etc. The only exception I'd think would be if you were running tweet/mid components off of one channel through their provided passive crossover.. So you'd set that channel in the head unit for 80hz maybe, for example. But that'd be in Std mode, rather than Network mode.


----------



## hykhleif

I did try to do audio reset, and still the front speakers show not accurate positions TA

my mid and tweeters are on the dash board window and my woofers are on the door panel ( focal krx3 ) front speakers.

I measured the distances and they are way off

my FL is only 60cm while after auto eq it shows 150 cm
my FR is only 105 cm while after auto eq it show 195 cm

I was wondering is it better to adjust the positions to the actual distances or leave it as is after I did the auto eq.

I am connected in standard mode.


----------



## quality_sound

Don't worry that the numbers are different than you measured. The difference between them is correct and that's what matters. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> I did try to do audio reset, and still the front speakers show not accurate positions TA
> 
> my mid and tweeters are on the dash board window and my woofers are on the door panel ( focal krx3 ) front speakers.
> 
> I measured the distances and they are way off
> 
> my FL is only 60cm while after auto eq it shows 150 cm
> my FR is only 105 cm while after auto eq it show 195 cm
> 
> I was wondering is it better to adjust the positions to the actual distances or leave it as is after I did the auto eq.
> 
> I am connected in standard mode.


What ever sounds best to you is the right way!

The automatic time alignment works by measuring the delay from when the headunits output a test tone to the time the microphone detect this test tone, and then it show the distance by calculation using the speed of sound in air.
So if your amps have a small delay from input to output this delay will make the detected distance bigger, but it shouldn't mess up the audio because it will still be in synch.
Normal amps does not delay sound so I think its more likely that most of the soundwaves get reflected by a hard surface like a window before it hits the mic (or your ear) this will also increase the distance(time) detected.
Bad reflections isn't optimal but its not cause by the 80prs or its measuring algorithm.
So I would suggest that you try tuning by ear and use the distance settings that you like, or if possible try to solve the issue by finding better locations for your speaker units, with less reflections.


----------



## WinWiz

Sorry I did not notice the difference between them is correct, so quality_sound is right, you should use the auto settings and enjoy your music


----------



## hykhleif

how much better audio quality can u expect from quasi set compared to active set up

i have focal krx3 front speakers, mid and tweeters on dashboard, and the woofers on door panels
audison lrx 2.9
audison lrx 1.1
jbl msa1004
arc audio subs 2

is active so much better than quasi and standard mode , is ir light night and day difference taking in consideration i only can place the mids and tweeters on the dashboard only for personal reasons


----------



## WinWiz

Im not 100% sure what you mean by Quasi?
Mathematically quasi means something thats nearly the same but not entirely the same...

I would not say its like day and night, but for the same price active stereo is definitely better than passive stereo.
Ofcourse its your car and personal sound preference varies a lot so you might like quasi while others don't...


----------



## hykhleif

so after you do the auto eq, does it change the equalizer settings too


----------



## Hanatsu

hykhleif said:


> so after you do the auto eq, does it change the equalizer settings too


Yes...

Tapaaatalk!!


----------



## hykhleif

just a quick question for network mode

I have a focal krx3 and wanna ask about rca connections

does the woofer of the krx3 go to front rca
mids and tweeters to rear rac
and sub to subwoofer


----------



## hykhleif

i am confused in network mode do u have to set the Low lpf, Mid LPF, Mid HPf, High Hpf frequencies before running auto eq.

can someone suggest good frequencies to set before running auteq

my speakers are Focal krx3

I have the following connection
1- network mode
2- focal mids and tweets connected to rear rca of prs 80 and connected to JBL mss 1004
3- focal woofers connected to front rca of prs 80 and connected to audison lrx2.9
4- subwoofer arc audio ( 2 subs ) connected to sbw rca of prs 80 and connected to audison lex 1.1

i will appreciate your response to setting frequencies and slopes and levels for each 

also what else should be done before running auto eq, do I have to set position, loudness, SLA, etc before running auto eq


----------



## rton20s

The DEH-80PRS isn't really designed to work with a 3-Way speaker system like yours. If you mount the the mid and tweeter close together, you can have them on the same "High" output and connect them through the passive crossover. However, your crossover point will probably be pretty high for that mid. 

The DEH-80PRS is a great low-cost option for going active with a simple 2-Way front stage + sub. Any more drivers or more unconventional or complicated a setup than that, and you'll be better off getting dedicated DSP. This is likely where you are at. You can still use the DEH-80PRS as your source, but you should be looking into a stand-alone DSP for your system.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

This ^


----------



## hykhleif

rton20s said:


> The DEH-80PRS isn't really designed to work with a 3-Way speaker system like yours. If you mount the the mid and tweeter close together, you can have them on the same "High" output and connect them through the passive crossover. However, your crossover point will probably be pretty high for that mid.
> 
> The DEH-80PRS is a great low-cost option for going active with a simple 2-Way front stage + sub. Any more drivers or more unconventional or complicated a setup than that, and you'll be better off getting dedicated DSP. This is likely where you are at. You can still use the DEH-80PRS as your source, but you should be looking into a stand-alone DSP for your system.


yes the mid and tweeter are both on the same high output and put in a special enclosure together so how can I adjust the crossover issue???

is it better I take off the mid speakers and just use the woofer and tweeters is that what u advise, I don't know if the focal krx3 could be used without the mid speakers.

this is really surprising what u said to me, I hope some can jump in with their thoughts too, and how can I utilise my equipment to the best way possible

i really hope you can advise in getting the best of what i have now


----------



## Hanatsu

Use low for mids, mid for midrange and high for tweeters. Y-split the right low output and run it to sub amp. Use the sub amp crossovers and phase control. Fix the response with EQ R ch below the passband of the mid.

Tapaaatalk!!


----------



## rton20s

I gave you a way, and a lot of people have been trying to help you with this. The equipment you have selected can not be used to its full potential with the combination you have. I *WOULD NOT* just remove the mid from the equation. 

*IF* you want to use the DEH-80PRS *AND* the KRX3 kit, you have a couple ways you can do it. 

1. DEH-80PRS in standard mode with only a HPF and the entire KRX3 system using the passive crossover. 

2. DEH-80PRS in network mode bandpassing the midbass and high passing the midrange and tweeter which would also have the passive crossover in use. In order to do this, you would need to set you HPF for the mid and tweeter as low as possible with a shallow slope. Possibly as low as 6 dB/octave. Or even run it in full pass, and allow the passive crossover to handle high passing the mid. To do this, you will want the mid and tweeter very close together, likely using the supplied mounting pod. 

In order to do things "right" with a fully active install, you will need an external DSP or an active head unit with more output channels (DEX-P99RS, etc.).


----------



## rton20s

Hanatsu said:


> Use low for mids, mid for midrange and high for tweeters. Y-split the right low output and run it to sub amp. Use the sub amp crossovers and phase control. Fix the response with EQ R ch below the passband of the mid.
> 
> Tapaaatalk!!


I hadn't thought about sharing the low output between the subwoofer and midbass. Obviously this method would work for getting the signal needed, but would you create time alignment issues?


----------



## Hanatsu

Phase control on the sub amp... just t/a the system as normal. Adjust the phase as a final step 

Tapaaatalk!!


----------



## hykhleif

I disconnected the mid speakers completely 

However the tweeter is still connected to the passive crossover, I was wondering by removing the mids, is my system now active. I know the tweeters are connected to the crossover of the focals, but its difficult for me to hook up the tweeters directly cause I have to take out an arm plate.

So my current setting is

1- woofers of focal krx3 connected directly to the audison lrx2.9, no hpf or lpf set on the audison lrx2.9
2- tweeters of focal krx3 connected to the crossovers and amped by the jbl msa1004 and hpf is off on the jbl
3- Arc audio subs connected directly to the audison lrx 1.1 no lpf set on it

I ran auto eq and it gave me really weird time alignment for my speakers.

Also can someone plz suggest curves and frequency settings for Low LPF, mid lpf, mid hpf, hIgh hpf

SHALL I before run auto eq dial in these frequencies, and what about all the other audio features shall I dial in anything before running auto eq

One question since my tweeters are connected to the focal crossovers are there any button settings on the focal crossovers that can make them full pass, so that my whole system can be considered active


----------



## nismos14

Uh, just get rid of the focal xovers


----------



## Golden Ear

hykhleif said:


> I disconnected the mid speakers completely
> 
> However the tweeter is still connected to the passive crossover, I was wondering by removing the mids, is my system now active. I know the tweeters are connected to the crossover of the focals, but its difficult for me to hook up the tweeters directly cause I have to take out an arm plate.
> 
> So my current setting is
> 
> 1- woofers of focal krx3 connected directly to the audison lrx2.9, no hpf or lpf set on the audison lrx2.9
> 2- tweeters of focal krx3 connected to the crossovers and amped by the jbl msa1004 and hpf is off on the jbl
> 3- Arc audio subs connected directly to the audison lrx 1.1 no lpf set on it
> 
> I ran auto eq and it gave me really weird time alignment for my speakers.
> 
> Also can someone plz suggest curves and frequency settings for Low LPF, mid lpf, mid hpf, hIgh hpf
> 
> SHALL I before run auto eq dial in these frequencies, and what about all the other audio features shall I dial in anything before running auto eq
> 
> One question since my tweeters are connected to the focal crossovers are there any button settings on the focal crossovers that can make them full pass, so that my whole system can be considered active


That would be considered a quasi-active system  

I would try 50hz LP on the sub, 63hz hp and 2200hz LP on the woofer, and 2400hz hp on the tweet all with 12db slopes. If the mids sound strained playing that low then bump them up to 80hz HP and bring the sub up to 63. These are just what I personally would try, others may have more experience with your Focal comps and have better recommendations. 

I've never heard of any settings on a passive crossover that would allow it to defeat itself


----------



## hykhleif

Golden Ear said:


> That would be considered a quasi-active system
> 
> I would try 50hz LP on the sub, 63hz hp and 2200hz LP on the woofer, and 2400hz hp on the tweet all with 12db slopes. If the mids sound strained playing that low then bump them up to 80hz HP and bring the sub up to 63. These are just what I personally would try, others may have more experience with your Focal comps and have better recommendations.
> 
> I've never heard of any settings on a passive crossover that would allow it to defeat itself


thanks I will try this, so shall I first dial in these frequencies then I should do auto eq?

also what about dialling in position and loudness , SLA, etc should these be adjusted before or after autoeq


----------



## Golden Ear

Dial in the crossover frequencies then do the auto eq then sla


----------



## hykhleif

hello guys

Please bare with me, so I got rid of my focal corssovers too

so my current set up is as follow

1- audison lrx 2.9 connected to woofer of focal krx3 
2- jbl msa 1004 connected to tweeters of focal krx3
3- arc audio subs ( 2 ) connected to audison monoblock lrx 1.1

I got rid of focal mid speakers and their crossover

I noticed a slight low humming noise coming from the woofers and tweeters, I was wondering is that due the fact I am active now

Finally I need really more input in setting frequencies and slopes before I run autoeq, 

I know I asked many time about frequencies settings and slopes and phases, I tried one of the suggested ones but I was wondering if there are any other suggestions too, because after I dialed in those frequencies and did auto tune I did not like that much the sound

Also I noted that always after auto eq the position of the left woofer shows me it 185 cm while the right woofer shows 165, I am confused as the left woofer is closer to me so how come it shows it is more far.

also I want to ask does going active produce a more harsh sound than passive


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> hello guys
> 
> Please bare with me, so I got rid of my focal corssovers too
> 
> so my current set up is as follow
> 
> 1- audison lrx 2.9 connected to woofer of focal krx3
> 2- jbl msa 1004 connected to tweeters of focal krx3
> 3- arc audio subs ( 2 ) connected to audison monoblock lrx 1.1
> 
> I got rid of focal mid speakers and their crossover
> 
> I noticed a slight low humming noise coming from the woofers and tweeters, I was wondering is that due the fact I am active now
> 
> Finally I need really more input in setting frequencies and slopes before I run autoeq,
> 
> I know I asked many time about frequencies settings and slopes and phases, I tried one of the suggested ones but I was wondering if there are any other suggestions too, because after I dialed in those frequencies and did auto tune I did not like that much the sound
> 
> Also I noted that always after auto eq the position of the left woofer shows me it 185 cm while the right woofer shows 165, I am confused as the left woofer is closer to me so how come it shows it is more far.
> 
> also I want to ask does going active produce a more harsh sound than passive


Your Pio will adjust everything except the xover between your highs and mids, so that is really all you have to set manually. Setting this to low can damage your tweets so aim high and use steep slopes (like 24db/oct)until you get comfortable with you system. You can always try other settings later, thats also a huge benefit of going active, fine tuning to your personal taste is so easy compared to passive. 
Im sorry to say this but it seem like you started this project without doing any proper research. When you learn how to tune and what all the settings means you will enjoy you sytem a lot more. 
Fully active should not be more harsh, it should be more detailed and give you more headroom. Because passive components waste power and when you have 6 independent channels a little bas clipping won't affect the tweets. By harsh sound do mean bright as in too much treble? If so just lower the level of the tweeters (SLA) after AutoEQ. 
Because active is a little more detailed it will not mask any noise in your system, but that is kind of what true hi-fi is about.
I used Google and it seem xover @ 3000Hz is a good starting point. Remember xover points is also volume dependant so if you use steep slope or don't play very loud you can probably cross lower, but try 3K as a start.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> Your Pio will adjust everything except the xover between your highs and mids, so that is really all you have to set manually. Setting this to low can damage your tweets so aim high and use steep slopes (like 24db/oct)until you get comfortable with you system. You can always try other settings later, thats also a huge benefit of going active, fine tuning to your personal taste is so easy compared to passive.
> Im sorry to say this but it seem like you started this project without doing any proper research. When you learn how to tune and what all the settings means you will enjoy you sytem a lot more.
> Fully active should not be more harsh, it should be more detailed and give you more headroom. Because passive components waste power and when you have 6 independent channels a little bas clipping won't affect the tweets. By harsh sound do mean bright as in too much treble? If so just lower the level of the tweeters (SLA) after AutoEQ.
> Because active is a little more detailed it will not mask any noise in your system, but that is kind of what true hi-fi is about.
> I used Google and it seem xover @ 3000Hz is a good starting point. Remember xover points is also volume dependant so if you use steep slope or don't play very loud you can probably cross lower, but try 3K as a start.


thanks for the reply

now u mentioned lowering my SLA will lower the treble, I did not know that I thought it functions as a volume boost in general.

Also I am now fully active no passive crossovers are in my setting now, so i really need help in getting few things straight

1- why when I use autoeq the left woofers shows a distance more far than the right woofer knowing that the right woofer is far more than the left, while the tweeters show accurate distances 
2- can someone please share how to dial in frequencies and at slopes to use before I use auto eq: LOW LPF, MID HPF, MID LPF, High HPF
3- what about the airy low sound that comes out from the tweeters is that maybe the gain is too high
4- can I set loudness on before I use autoeq

Honestly I don't understand what autoeq does, since it does not dial in frequencies and gets the distances of my speakers wrong

my current dialled in frequencies are as follow

1- LOW LPF; 63 slope 12
2 MID HPF: 83 slope 12
3- MID LPF: 6.3 slope 12
4- High HPF: 6.3 slope 12

can someone suggest or comment on my frequencies I used before I use autoeq.

I really would appreciate some feedback and I hope u will all bare with me, this has been a big learning experience so I need all the help u can give


----------



## quality_sound

SLA is not a treble adjustment. It is a level adjustment for a particular source. You use it so you don't have large volume difference between sources. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> thanks for the reply
> 
> now u mentioned lowering my SLA will lower the treble, I did not know that I thought it functions as a volume boost in general.
> 
> Also I am now fully active no passive crossovers are in my setting now, so i really need help in getting few things straight
> 
> 1- why when I use autoeq the left woofers shows a distance more far than the right woofer knowing that the right woofer is far more than the left, while the tweeters show accurate distances
> 2- can someone please share how to dial in frequencies and at slopes to use before I use auto eq: LOW LPF, MID HPF, MID LPF, High HPF
> 3- what about the airy low sound that comes out from the tweeters is that maybe the gain is too high
> 4- can I set loudness on before I use autoeq
> 
> Honestly I don't understand what autoeq does, since it does not dial in frequencies and gets the distances of my speakers wrong
> 
> my current dialled in frequencies are as follow
> 
> 1- LOW LPF; 63 slope 12
> 2- MID HPF: 83 slope 12
> 3- MID LPF: 6.3 slope 12
> 4- High HPF: 6.3 slope 12
> 
> can someone suggest or comment on my frequencies I used before I use autoeq.
> 
> I really would appreciate some feedback and I hope u will all bare with me, this has been a big learning experience so I need all the help u can give


Sorry when I wrote SLA I wasn't thinking about the headunits SLA function but adjusting sound level between low, mid and high, also called gain. I think the SLA function to increase sound when the cabin is noisy decrease SQ a tiny bit so I don't use it.
The headunit will detect and change all crossovers and slopes except MID LPF and High HPF, so don't think about LOW LPF and MID HPF their setting doesn't matter.
MID LPF: 6300 and High HPF: 6300 is too high, try 3000 aka 3Khz. As far is read your mids don't play at their best above approx. 3K so I can imagine 6300 doesn't sound nice...
A car is a weird place regarding sound, in my car right mid is also detected "wrong" but after many hours of testing with my ears I concluded that this "wrong" setting is what sounds optimal...
Quality sound is like art there is no right or wrong only personal preference (unless you compete, then its about judge preference


----------



## WinWiz

1- why when I use autoeq the left woofers shows a distance more far than the right woofer knowing that the right woofer is far more than the left, while the tweeters show accurate distances 
2- can someone please share how to dial in frequencies and at slopes to use before I use auto eq: LOW LPF, MID HPF, MID LPF, High HPF
3- what about the airy low sound that comes out from the tweeters is that maybe the gain is too high
4- can I set loudness on before I use autoeq

5- Honestly I don't understand what autoeq does, since it does not dial in frequencies and gets the distances of my speakers wrong

1- I don't know why, try not to think about it now, adjust as you like after AutoEQ

2- I would try setting MID LPF and High HPF @ 3000Hz and 12Db/Oct, because your twets can play down to 3K and your mids freq response is nice up to 3K.

3- If you get airy low sound from tweets when there is nothing playing you have noise entering your system. I would advice you don't worry about this yet.
4- I think the Pio will turn off loudness when ruinning autotuning but Im not sure on this because I dont use loudness. I prefer to use the EQ, Lowpass and gain to adjust the bass to my preference. So if you wanna be sure just turn it off before using AutoEq.

5- Autoeq will adjust crossover freq between subs and mids, but not between mids and highs because this would likely be dangerous to some tweets, and it doesn't know what kind of tweets you have. That is why you should set this to 3Khz manually before using Autoeq. 
Autoeq will also adjust time delay so that sounds from lows, mids, and tweets reach you ear at the same time to reproduce quality sound with realistic image/stage, but this might not correspond to the measured direct line.
And finally it will equalize subs, mids and tweets to make a flat response curve . 
I got the 80prs mainly because of the 3 ti dacs, wav from usb harddrive support and I view the auto eq/ta as a nice bonus, producing a fast start point for finetuning. So I don't use features like loudness, sla, soundretriever and other similar settings.


----------



## WinWiz

I forgot about phase, its also kind of late in denmark now...
If you only use 12db/oct slopes (and the autoeq seem to prefer this) then phase is quite simple. set low to normal, mid to reverse and high to normal.


----------



## Hanatsu

WinWiz said:


> its also kind of late in denmark


Oh, another night owl. Even later for those not unemployed xD

I really don't sleep too much lol.


----------



## WinWiz

Hanatsu said:


> Oh, another night owl. Even later for those not unemployed xD
> 
> I really don't sleep too much lol.


I guess you don't!
Actually I just applied for a job selling mobile apps, so I'm crossing my fingers!

Anyone ever seen autoEq select any other slope than 12db/oct ?


----------



## WinWiz

Actually thinking about it, autoeq may have chosen 18db/oct for my subs, can't really remember.


----------



## subwoofery

WinWiz said:


> 1- why when I use autoeq the left woofers shows a distance more far than the right woofer knowing that the right woofer is far more than the left, while the tweeters show accurate distances
> 2- can someone please share how to dial in frequencies and at slopes to use before I use auto eq: LOW LPF, MID HPF, MID LPF, High HPF
> 3- what about the airy low sound that comes out from the tweeters is that maybe the gain is too high
> 4- can I set loudness on before I use autoeq
> 
> 5- Honestly I don't understand what autoeq does, since it does not dial in frequencies and gets the distances of my speakers wrong
> 
> 1- I don't know why, try not to think about it now, adjust as you like after AutoEQ
> 
> 2- I would try setting MID LPF and High HPF @ 3000Hz and 12Db/Oct, because your twets can play down to 3K and your mids freq response is nice up to 3K.
> 
> 3- If you get airy low sound from tweets when there is nothing playing you have noise entering your system. I would advice you don't worry about this yet.
> 4- I think the Pio will turn off loudness when ruinning autotuning but Im not sure on this because I dont use loudness. I prefer to use the EQ, Lowpass and gain to adjust the bass to my preference. So if you wanna be sure just turn it off before using AutoEq.
> 
> 5- Autoeq will adjust crossover freq between subs and mids, but not between mids and highs because this would likely be dangerous to some tweets, and it doesn't know what kind of tweets you have. That is why you should set this to 3Khz manually before using Autoeq.
> Autoeq will also adjust time delay so that sounds from lows, mids, and tweets reach you ear at the same time to reproduce quality sound with realistic image/stage, but this might not correspond to the measured direct line.
> And finally it will equalize subs, mids and tweets to make a flat response curve .
> I got the 80prs mainly because of the 3 ti dacs, wav from usb harddrive support and I view the auto eq/ta as a nice bonus, producing a fast start point for finetuning. So I don't use features like loudness, sla, soundretriever and other similar settings.


3kHz 12dB slope is way too low for most Focal tweeters... 

Kelvin


----------



## WinWiz

subwoofery said:


> 3kHz 12dB slope is way too low for most Focal tweeters...
> 
> Kelvin


Really? The test i read seems very detailed. Are you sure these tweets are like most focals? 
Not all people need 150db volume...

FS seems to be 2200 so 24db/oct is probably safer

In 2011 you said in a thread about the focal 165 krx3:
Doesn't matter... You don't listen with your eyes. 
Just set the Xover so that it sounds good. 

Did you get wiser or you just don't think hykhleif knows how to use his ears?


----------



## WinWiz

quality_sound said:


> SLA is not a treble adjustment. It is a level adjustment for a particular source. You use it so you don't have large volume difference between sources.
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


Its to late for me, I was thinking about level adjustment or what people call gain. I my mind gain is something you set on the amp but I do know gain and level in headunits is exactly the same..
Personally i don't use sla because it can not adjust lossy audio down and lossless up, so kind of pointless. Unless you only use lossy or only lossless audio.
Also I don't listen to radio, sd or cd, so only usb and (shamley admitting) bluetooth sources...


----------



## subwoofery

WinWiz said:


> Really? The test i read seems very detailed. Are you sure these tweets are like most focals?
> Not all people need 150db volume...
> 
> FS seems to be 2200 so 24db/oct is probably safer
> 
> In 2011 you said in a thread about the focal 165 krx3:
> Doesn't matter... You don't listen with your eyes.
> Just set the Xover so that it sounds good.
> 
> Did you get wiser or you just don't think hykhleif knows how to use his ears?


If you say so, I've probably said that back in 2011. 

One thing I do know is that for tweeters, you don't want to cross too close to FS (well any driver usually). When people state to cross x2 above FS, they are suggesting to use it so that distortion is as low as possible - the closer you get to FS, the most distortion that tweeter will produce. 

FS for the TN53k is 2149Hz. 
I like to think in octaves (well 1/3 octave here), so let's say the FS is 2kHz. 
x2 above FS is 4kHz - meaning you can cross safely around 4kHz with a 12dB/oct slope. 
If you want to cross lower, you need a more agressive slope like 18dB/oct or 24dB/oct. 
1/3 octave below 4kHz is 3.2kHz so 3.2kHz @ 18dB/oct is good 
1/3 octave below that is 2.5kHz so again, 2.5kHz @ 24dB/oct is good. 

And to answer your question, luckily for me I did get wiser but what you're saying about hykhleif is your opinion, not mine - so don't try to put words into people's mouth ; especially when it's not required...

Thank you 
Kelvin


----------



## quality_sound

WinWiz said:


> Sorry when I wrote SLA I wasn't thinking about the headunits SLA function but adjusting sound level between low, mid and high, also called gain. I think the SLA function to increase sound when the cabin is noisy decrease SQ a tiny bit so I don't use it.
> The headunit will detect and change all crossovers and slopes except MID LPF and High HPF, so don't think about LOW LPF and MID HPF their setting doesn't matter.
> MID LPF: 6300 and High HPF: 6300 is too high, try 3000 aka 3Khz. As far is read your mids don't play at their best above approx. 3K so I can imagine 6300 doesn't sound nice...
> A car is a weird place regarding sound, in my car right mid is also detected "wrong" but after many hours of testing with my ears I concluded that this "wrong" setting is what sounds optimal...
> Quality sound is like art there is no right or wrong only personal preference (unless you compete, then its about judge preference



That's NOT SLA. Read the manual. Are you talking about ASR (Auto Sound Retreiver)? Or maybe ASL (Auto Sound Levelizer)?

ASR is supposed to add in what compression removes to "liven" up the sound. 

ASL automatucally changes the volume based on background noise levels.


I'm not telling you what you like is wrong. I'm telling you that you're wrong about what the different functions do.


----------



## quality_sound

WinWiz said:


> Its to late for me, I was thinking about level adjustment or what people call gain. I my mind gain is something you set on the amp but I do know gain and level in headunits is exactly the same..
> Personally i don't use sla because it can not adjust lossy audio down and lossless up, so kind of pointless. Unless you only use lossy or only lossless audio.
> Also I don't listen to radio, sd or cd, so only usb and (shamley admitting) bluetooth sources...


That's not what SLA does. At all. That's what ASR does. Two TOTALLY different things. SLA is simply an extra volume to that all of your SOURCES are the same volume so when you switch from, say, CD to FM, there isn't a big change in the volume.


----------



## WinWiz

As written it was late and I don't go around remembering letters for functions I don't care about. But when I'm operating my pio I do know what these functions do, so honestly no I don't need to rtfm. You actually reminds me of a school teacher. But thanks for wasting your time I'm sure everyone apriciate your contribution. Can we move on please?


----------



## sqnut

The long and short of it is that auto tuning sucks.

The real value of the p80 is in the extent of its manual tuning features. The three basic things you need to do are, set the timings from each driver, correct L/R response for the 16 frequencies and then dial in a base response curve. Read and understand how to do each and give yourself some time to get it right. That alone will take you further than any auto tune. Think of this as part1. 

Part 2 is using the units processing to dial in a nice clean and dynamic response. Rome wasn't built in a day and your car won't sound good with a few sweeps of auto tune. The p80 was designed to be used as a 2way+sub. Using it to run a quasi active 3way+sub is setting up problems you can't solve and preventing you from getting the max out of the unit. A well tuned active 2way+sub will sound much better than a quasi active 3way+sub off this unit.


----------



## WinWiz

Im sure autotuning sucks in competitive class setups but for a newbie like me its actually a nice feature to have. Because if I had to rely only on my ears it would suck even more. I'm sure lots of users her at diy will laugh at me for writing this but its the truth.

In my living room I have a nice dynaudio/yamaha Hifi thats tuned by auto + some bass boost and people very often tell me its the best setup they have ever heard, so I don't think all auto tuning is that dreadfull...


----------



## Golden Ear

WinWiz said:


> Im sure autotuning sucks in competitive class setups but for a newbie like me its actually a nice feature to have. Because if I had to rely only on my ears it would suck even more. I'm sure lots of users her at diy will laugh at me for writing this but its the truth.
> 
> In my living room I have a nice dynaudio/yamaha Hifi thats tuned by auto + some bass boost and people very often tell me its the best setup they have ever heard, so I don't think all auto tuning is that dreadfull...


I did the same thing with my ht system and am very pleased with it. And the ms-8 tune in one of my vehicles sounds pretty good. I used the autotune on the 80prs for a very short while and it didn't sound too bad, I would probably use it as a baseline for further tuning.


----------



## sqnut

WinWiz said:


> Im sure autotuning sucks in competitive class setups but for a newbie like me its actually a nice feature to have. Because if I had to rely only on my ears it would suck even more. I'm sure lots of users her at diy will laugh at me for writing this but its the truth.
> 
> In my living room I have a nice dynaudio/yamaha Hifi thats tuned by auto + some bass boost and people very often tell me its the best setup they have ever heard, so I don't think all auto tuning is that dreadfull...


Not talking about competition sound. I don't compete. It's just about getting the car to sound like your dynaudio/yamaha hifi at home. With auto tuning you're only using about 20% of that hu's capability. 

Learning to use your ears is largely stage 2. Stage 1 is just simple measurements and corrections.


----------



## WinWiz

My ears are not perfect, I have trouble hearing some high frequencies on my left ear. I don't believe you could make the components in my car sound 5 times better, if your up for that challenge come to denmark!
I'm not blindly using auto tune, but like Golden_E said, use it kind of like a base line to work from. BTW all the people I know is also impressed by my car-fi. Now I will enjoy some old music on my autotuned Hifi. Pers. I think my home setup can easily compete with most prof. theaters. Have a nice day.


----------



## sqnut

I will gladly come to Denmark and tune your setup, as long as you send me the ticket. It won't take long either, maybe 30-45 mts to setup the p80. Not sure why you're taking offense though.


----------



## hykhleif

when i use this auteq it always gives me wrong speaker calculations ( active setup ) in network mode

my reading after auto eq is


1- front left tweeter: 135
2- front right: 160
3- front left mid---- 185 cm
4- front right mid--- 145 cm ( which is driving me crazy cause its so wrong )
5- subwoofers ---- 400 cm ( which is ridiculous )

I dialed in the following frequencies before auteq

1- Low LPF: 63 slope 12
2- Mid HPGF: 83 slope 12
3- Mid LPF: 4 slope 12
4- High HPF: 4 slope 12

I put the subs to mono before auto eq and positioned the setup to front left and then I did auto tune

I do the autoteq in a very silent place and placed the mic on ear level while I am outside the car

What the heck am I ding wrong as all reading after autoeq are wrong


----------



## rton20s

Quit worrying about the numbers, and start worrying about the sound! 

Who cares what the numbers are, so long as it sounds correct and stages properly? If the staging isn't correct, at least now you have a baseline to start tuning from.


----------



## WinWiz

Rton20s That's exactly what I what I was thinking 

I just drove with my dog into the near forrest and listened to one of my favorite records: Metallica Justice for all, while drinking a Tuborg classic and smoking a cigar. Enjoyed every second! Thinking about how much I love my dog, my old car and how great life is. Isn't this what its all about?

In my car I have 48Khz rip of a brand new vinyl, never played before ripping, Metallica Justice for all. Mabe its all placebo but I do prefer this vinyl rip to the CD version. My two old cerwin vega 12" subs doesn't play as low as my dyn 500 sub but they have a nice attack and seems to love Metallica too 
Now that i'm home again I will listen to Metallica master of puppets and have another beer before I go to bed, hope my neighbor doesn't mind :worried:

I hope you all enjoy your music wherever you are


----------



## WinWiz

sqnut said:


> I will gladly come to Denmark and tune your setup, as long as you send me the ticket. It won't take long either, maybe 30-45 mts to setup the p80. Not sure why you're taking offense though.


I got the impression you thought the great SQ from the 80prs was wasted because I like the auto setup. But the setup in my car cost about 1/5 of my home Hifi, so I find your comment about me only utilising 20% was stupid. We all know that a car setup will have to be a lot more expensive than 1300$ to rival a well build 6500$ home system. I have used many many hours to create and tune the sound system in my car, and personaly I think its quite an achievement that I don't really feel like i'm missing anything when I listen to music in my car...


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> when i use this auteq it always gives me wrong speaker calculations ( active setup ) in network mode
> 
> my reading after auto eq is
> 
> 
> 1- front left tweeter: 135
> 2- front right: 160
> 3- front left mid---- 185 cm
> 4- front right mid--- 145 cm ( which is driving me crazy cause its so wrong )
> 5- subwoofers ---- 400 cm ( which is ridiculous )
> 
> I dialed in the following frequencies before auteq
> 
> 1- Low LPF: 63 slope 12
> 2- Low LPF: 83 slope 12
> 3- Mid LPF: 4 slope 12
> 4- High HPF: 4 slope 12
> 
> I put the subs to mono before auto eq and positioned the setup to front left and then I did auto tune
> 
> I do the autoteq in a very silent place and placed the mic on ear level while I am outside the car
> 
> What the heck am I ding wrong as all reading after autoeq are wrong


I have been thinking about your setup. With your speakers I would start by entering:
Mid LPF: 3Khz, this is about as high as your mids will play without beaming.
High HPF: 3Khz, to reach your mids
[email protected]/oct slope, and normal phase. 

Then run autoeq and after autoeq enter values like this:

Low LPF: 80 Hz, because I think 63 is asking too much of your mids.
Mid HPF: 80 Hz, this will probably give a little bass peak at 80 but thats how many people like it, if you don't try 100Hz
set all slopes to 24db/oct and normal phase.

Im pretty sure you will find the sound is pretty nice with this.
Then experiment with changing the time alignment, use your ears for this.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> I have been thinking about your setup. With your speakers I would run autoeq and then enter values like this:
> 
> Low LPF: 80 Hz, because I think 63 is asking to much of your mids.
> Mid HPF: 80 Hz, this will probably give a little bass peak at 80 but thats how many people like it, if you don't try 100Hz
> Mid LPF: 3Khz, this is about as high as your mids will play without beaming.
> High HPF: 3Khz, to reach your mids
> [email protected]/oct slope, and all at normal phase.
> 
> Then experiment with changing the time alignment, use your ears for this.
> I think these settings will sound pretty nice.


i need to ask a stupid question, is the low LPF for the subwoofer or for the krx3 woofers

i was wondering if Low LPF is for focal woofer so how can I increase the volume of the subwoofers , i am confused now


----------



## WinWiz

low LPF determines how high frequencies your sub will play.
So Low Low Pass [email protected] means your sub will play all frequencies below 80Hz. Frequencies below 80Hz are omnidirectional so it will sound like the sub is placed in front of the car like the other speakers.
If you set low LPF above 80Hz you will start to notice the low frequencies coming from behind, where your sub is placed so thats not optimal for your sound image.

Please try this:
Start by entering:
Mid LPF: 3Khz, this is about as high as your mids will play without beaming.
High HPF: 3Khz, to reach your mids
[email protected]/oct slope, and normal phase. 

Then run autoeq and after autoeq enter values like this:

Low LPF: 80 Hz, because I think 63 is asking too much of your mids.
Mid HPF: 80 Hz, this will probably give a little bass peak at 80 but thats how many people like it, if you don't try 100Hz
set all slopes to 24db/oct and normal phase.

Im pretty sure you will find the sound is pretty nice with this.
Then experiment with changing the time alignment, use your ears for this.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> low LPF determines how high frequencies your sub will play.


yeah thats what i thought cause for a sec i was confused.

why would u advise not to dial in these frequencies then do auto tune, and do u advise to put subwoofers to mono before i do auto eq


----------



## WinWiz

Dont worry about asking "stupid" questions I was also a newbie not to long ago and I really like to help


----------



## WinWiz

Thats because autotune changes Low LPF and Mid HPF so if you set them before you will just have to set them manually again after, wasted of work.
Autotune also change sub mono/stereo setting so that you will also have to change after autoeq.
But mono or stereo doesn't really mean anything for sub, it will sound almost exactly the same. so dont worry about that setting.


----------



## WinWiz

After the autoeq you will probably find the bass is to low but that easy to fix.


----------



## sqnut

WinWiz said:


> But the setup in my car cost about 1/5 of my home Hifi, so I find your comment about me only utilising 20% was stupid. We all know that a car setup will have to be a lot more expensive than 1300$ to rival a well build 6500$ home system.


Not really, you can get somewhat close with your $1300 and that hu. You can get frighteningly close with a processor. Of course the stage dimensions would be different because the room size is different, that's about it. 

By 20% I meant you can get it sounding 5 times better with manual tuning. Again, you say that you have spent many hours tweaking the system, so auto tune wasn't that hot after all.



WinWiz said:


> I have used many many hours to create and tune the sound system in my car, and personaly I think its quite an achievement that I don't really feel like i'm missing anything when I listen to music in my car...


That contradicts your point above. I'm done here.


----------



## whitrzac

Dumb question... 

Can I use network mode without a sub? There really isn't room in the miata...

2 8s in the doors
2 1in tweaters


----------



## WinWiz

whitrzac said:


> Dumb question...
> 
> Can I use network mode without a sub? There really isn't room in the miata...
> 
> 2 8s in the doors
> 2 1in tweaters


If you are creative there is room for a sub in any car, even a tiny smartcar. But the 80prs can without problems run a 2-way setup without a sub. But you will not get loud, clean and deep bass!


----------



## whitrzac

Does anyone have a spare knob for one of these?

I really don't want to spend $45 on one from pacparts....


----------



## whitrzac

Does anyone have a spare knob for one of these?

I really don't want to spend $45 on one from pacparts....


----------



## WinWiz

whitrzac said:


> Dumb question...
> 
> Can I use network mode without a sub? There really isn't room in the miata...
> 
> 2 8s in the doors
> 2 1in tweaters


8" 2-ways can be rather difficult, unless you use drivers that are very well behaved, and have an extended frequency response. And such drivers tend to be expensive.
So a 6-7" driver would normally be better for 2-way...


----------



## hykhleif

guys I need help in making things clear to me

so i decided to connect a way 2 speakers hertz mlk2 for personal reasons instead of the focals krx3 ( front stage )

and I opted out to use a DSP alpine pxa 700 + rux

I got a good deal for the pxa so i want to use it instead of the pioneer network modes

so when I connect the alpine pxa 700 do I put back the pioneer 80prs back to standard mode. I was wondering if yes how can set the HPF on the prs 80 to full pass, as I see in front HPF 1 that there is full pass, but in HPF 2 there is still the frequencies showing, and I noticed that changing the HPF2 frequencies will change the sound signature despite in HPF1 its full pass.


----------



## DrewV

Need help!!

Just installed my 80PRS, network mode. I have a 4-ch amp that's got ch 1 and 2 going to the front mids (left/right). Ch 3 and 4 are bridged for the sub. RCA outputs from the head unit are mid and low only (top-most RCA outputs from head unit are empty). I am running my front L/R tweeters off the head unit speaker wire outputs.

Here's my problem: I seem to be getting only "mid" output from BOTH the mid and low RCAs coming from the head unit. My subwoofer is playing mid output, not low. When I go into "network 1" and MUTE the LOW, nothing happens. When I mute the MID, both my front speakers AND my subwoofer are muted.

Anyone know what's going on here? I'm getting desperate, because I'm nearly 100% certain that I connected everything properly.


----------



## WinWiz

I don't know your amp but it seems like your amp is routing the mid input to all channels. Some amps have a setting for this to make it run 4 channels from a headhunt with only one output, so check the configuration of your amp.


----------



## DrewV

I just discovered that I must have accidentally hit the "2-ch input" button on my amp during the install. I switched it back to "4-ch input" and everything works 100% now.

Winwiz: That was exactly what it was. Thanks for the quick reply. It would have solved my problem if I hadn't already found it first. Thanks again.


----------



## hykhleif

hykhleif said:


> guys I need help in making things clear to me
> 
> so i decided to connect a way 2 speakers hertz mlk2 for personal reasons instead of the focals krx3 ( front stage )
> 
> and I opted out to use a DSP alpine pxa 700 + rux
> 
> I got a good deal for the pxa so i want to use it instead of the pioneer network modes
> 
> so when I connect the alpine pxa 700 do I put back the pioneer 80prs back to standard mode. I was wondering if yes how can set the HPF on the prs 80 to full pass, as I see in front HPF 1 that there is full pass, but in HPF 2 there is still the frequencies showing, and I noticed that changing the HPF2 frequencies will change the sound signature despite in HPF1 its full pass.


anyone can address this question above


----------



## WinWiz

I have no experience with alpine DSP but I think you are supposed to run the pio in standard mode. I think standard mode will disable the pio's internal crossovers but I have never used standard mode so im not sure about this.
OK I just read you post above once more. With external dsp I you should use the DSP to handle the xovers so only connect front HPF 1 from PIO to the DSP, don't use more than one RCA from the pio. So the DSP gets full signal and handles the Xover. And please read the DSP manual.
Honestly using a head unit with internal DSP, like our 80PRS, connected to an external DSP is like wearing both belt-and-braces. No harm but wasted money.
Edit:
Im sorry to say this but I just read this thread about PXA-H700: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...tening-impressions-alpine-pxa-h700-701-a.html
Its from 2007 and even then it was a mediocre processor so i'm not convinced it won't do more harm than good, so I hope you got it really cheap. Things move quickly in processor land...


----------



## DrewV

So, with my 80PRS installed and everything running fine, I have my crossovers and gains set up manually. I actually prefer flat eq, since I mostly listen to electronic/house style music anyway. No extra processing is really needed. The system actually sounds pretty good as it is.

That being said, I'm still using the "initial TA" setting and have not gone through the AutoTA/EQ process. Does anyone think that I'll hear a noticeable difference if I go ahead and run the autotune process? It seems like everyone has to go back and re-adjust all their settings after the autotune anyway, so what's the real benefit?


----------



## Golden Ear

I think you'll notice a difference. Whether you like it more or less is personal preference. I thought mine sounded better after running the autotune but not perfect.


----------



## WinWiz

DrewV said:


> So, with my 80PRS installed and everything running fine, I have my crossovers and gains set up manually. I actually prefer flat eq, since I mostly listen to electronic/house style music anyway. No extra processing is really needed. The system actually sounds pretty good as it is.
> 
> That being said, I'm still using the "initial TA" setting and have not gone through the AutoTA/EQ process. Does anyone think that I'll hear a noticeable difference if I go ahead and run the autotune process? It seems like everyone has to go back and re-adjust all their settings after the autotune anyway, so what's the real benefit?


Well flat EQ is far from the same thing as no EQ! 
All cars cabins have a different frequency responce with cuts and boosts+different speakers can also have very different response. I think the AutoEQ/TA actually try to create a flat EQ compensating for this, thats probably why most people find they have to increase bass after AutoEQ, because most people tend to find a perfectly flat response boring and lacking bass frequencies. If your car has speakers placed like most other cars initial TA settings are quite good. But if I turn off autoEQ, auto EQ sure sounds a lot better. After AutoEQ the manual EQ settings will work on top of the autoeq so if you like most humans prefer a little bass boost (or some other setting) the autoEQ process isn't wasted. AutoSetup is debated a lot but personally I think its a very nice base to manually tune from. It only takes 6 minutes but for me saves several hours of tuning. Also for people like me with limited tuning experience there is a risk manually tuning only will never truly compensate for the weird response in a car, and leave people like me thinking the headunit isn't that great, only because I really don't have the skills and experience to adjust it correctly.
In short Autosetup should result in a "correct" sound thats easy to adjust to personal preference. I prefer a sound thats a little laid back so all i really needed after autosetup was to boost the lowest frequencies and cut the high frequencies.

Tip: For best results after AutoEQ try to use the manual EQ to adjust sound to your preference, because if you use the level/gain settings for this you can easily screw up the acoustic sum unity of the driver responses at crossover.


----------



## DrewV

Well, I ran the Autotune and I guess I just simply do not like the TA results at all. Yeah, it moved the image towards the left side, but it sounded weak and hollow. Turning off the TA seemed to sound better overall.

Also, the AutoEQ seemed like it really increased the high end disproportionally compared to the low end. Had to create a Custom EQ with frequencies below 125Hz increased +1 or +2, while cutting frequencies above 8kHz by -1 or -2.

Overall I guess it's a mixed bag of results. I think I agree with others that it might be a decent starting point, but I'm not sure if it is easier to start from scratch or start with the Autotune.

I also noticed that if I run a pink noise file through my head unit and used "RTA Analyzer" on my cell phone, the curve looks horrible. It's basically inverted from what's desired... the high end is high and the low end is low. But honestly my system sounds pretty low-end-heavy already after I adjusted the Custom EQ. I'm just wondering if there's a problem with the RTA app or my phone. Something just seems way off.


----------



## TAREKFOUAD1

Sorry for any interruption
Am asking what SDHC Flash Memory Card can DEH-80PRS read it?
I got this Transcend 64GB Class 10 (TS64GSDXC10E) but not working, any help plz?


----------



## Ericd05

So I see that the Deh-80prs is discontinued... Does anyone know where I can buy one or should i look into buying a KDC-X998?


----------



## Golden Ear

Looks like Crutchfield has them Open Box for $315. Usually that's pretty much new.


----------



## spyders03

Eric, I just pulled mine out of my car yesterday, just put it back on the box, might be willing to work out a deal.

Swyped while Swerving


----------



## spyders03

Tarek, I believe it will only read up to a 32gb sd card

Swyped while Swerving


----------



## rton20s

It seems like every couple months someone new pops in and says the DEH-80PRS has been discontinued. This hasn't been the case... yet. There is certainly low stock all over the net, so I wonder if it is for real this time. If it is, anyone considering this low priced active option better jump on it while they can.


----------



## WinWiz

Ericd05 said:


> So I see that the Deh-80prs is discontinued... Does anyone know where I can buy one or should i look into buying a KDC-X998?


Amazon has 9 left in stock, $277.77 & FREE Shipping
Amazon.com: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment: Car Electronics


----------



## hykhleif

i was wondering what is the high and low button on the back of the pioneer prs 80 hu, and when to use high or low


----------



## nismos14

hykhleif said:


> i was wondering what is the high and low button on the back of the pioneer prs 80 hu, and when to use high or low


Can you post a pic?

I don't see it here:


----------



## rton20s

It is the High vs Low Level selection switch for the input RCAs shown on the left side of the image nismo14 posted. Unless I am mistaken.


----------



## whitrzac

hykhleif said:


> i was wondering what is the high and low button on the back of the pioneer prs 80 hu, and when to use high or low


Speaker/line level input for the RCAs.


----------



## WinWiz

rton20s said:


> It is the High vs Low Level selection switch for the input RCAs shown on the left side of the image nismo14 posted. Unless I am mistaken.


Correct, and as far as I remember the switch is located at the underside not backside of the unit.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> Correct, and as far as I remember the switch is located at the underside not backside of the unit.


thanks but what should be set at, High or low i don't know what it is supposed to be on ( i also have pxa 700 ) that is why I ask


----------



## WinWiz

Its for the rca inputs on the back so if you don't use them it doesn't matter. If you set it at high you won't blue anything of you one day use the rca input.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> Its for the rca inputs on the back so if you don't use them it doesn't matter. If you set it at high you won't blue anything of you one day use the rca input.


u mean the 2 rca inputs that r close to it, do u think it would be better to connect an external dsp like pxa 700 to those to 2 rca inputs and set them to high instead of connecting the pxa to one of the 3 pairs of rca


----------



## WinWiz

No. You can't use input to connect your DSP. You have to use the outputs for that.


----------



## hykhleif

WinWiz said:


> No. You can't use input to connect your DSP. You have to use the outputs for that.


i was wondering due to the conflicting responses I got so far, when I want to connect an external dsp like alpine pxa 700 shall i use network mode or standard mode.

Also do it matter which rca input i choose when I want to connect an external dap, shall I use the middle rca input ( F) for connecting the external dsp


----------



## Hanatsu

Use any fullrange output. Use standard mode.

Tapaaatalk!!


----------



## WinWiz

Hanatsu said:


> Use any fullrange output. Use standard mode.
> Tapaaatalk!!


As always Hanatsu is right
Use the top or the middle placed RCAs, not the lowest subwoofer RCAs.
And standard mode.


----------



## hykhleif

final question guys, I tried asking in the pxa 800 thread, but no one answered.

Since I have 3 amps, and pioneer prs80, and the pxa700, i was wondering how do i set gains for all those amps to match the pxa700


----------



## quality_sound

Exactly like you would normally. Set everything to minimum. Turn up HU to clipping and note the volume. The 800 doesn't clip so you can max out those levels. Now set your amp gains. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## xt577

Will touching oscilloscope leads to the end of a disconnected RCA cable while the unit is powered up have the same effect as hot-swapping?

I'd like to check RCAs for max volume w/o clipping but I'm concerned about the capacitor/pico issue. I will avoid hot-swapping RCAs from the amp.


----------



## DrewV

I have a question (haven't run across it in this thread). When I hit the magnifying glass (search) button on the 80PRS, the folder list ALWAYS starts at the top, no matter which folder I'm currently in.

Shouldn't it start searching wherever the current track is already playing? I mean, why start at the top every time? Most other head units just start in the current folder. I hate having to scroll through the entire list every time I want to search for a track.

Or am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Coppertone

Well this is a good question and since I never had a chance to play with mine when I had it, sadly I can not answer this. Outside of that, how are you enjoying all of it's other features ?


----------



## DrewV

Loving the unit so far. I haven't come anywhere close to using the L/R TA and EQ features to their fullest extent yet. Just basically did the Autotune and some basic EQ to correct the lows and highs. Played with the crossovers a bit and ended up with something that I enjoy listening to. Probably won't win any competitions, but so far it's the best sounding system I've ever owned.

What amazes me is that if I play a track with a quiet section, I can turn up the volume virtually all the way without introducing any background noise or hiss. I've never had a head unit that could do that before. Attack and separation in the music is as distinct as anything I've ever heard. Of course, I'm no pro. But to my ears, it sounds great.

I thought it would take me forever to learn the menus and features. But it really only took about an hour or so just playing around with it to figure it all out. I know some people complain about the "beep" when you press the buttons when making adjustments, but I hardly ever really notice it. I set mine up with the ASWC steering wheel controls and everything auto-detected perfectly.

My only complaint is that when I use the Bluetooth for my phone, the person on the other end hears a constant buzz in the background. It's not very loud, but it's there. All the time. I've tried moving my microphone, but it doesn't help. I don't spend much time on the phone anyway, so I don't really worry about it.

Overall I'm extremely glad I made the purchase.


----------



## Coppertone

Glad to see another person was satisfied with the purchase of this unit.


----------



## hykhleif

hello everyone

I did notice a weird things with my pioneer prs80, 

when I turn the volume to 62, and select the source to be aux 1 or 2 I hear static noise if no devise or player is to connected to the aux 1 or 2.

Once I connect a devise like an external player to the aux in the pioneer I don't hear the static noise anymore.

So 

aux1 or aux 2 selected as a source with an external player connected= no static noise

aux1 or aux2 selected as a source without an external player connected= static noise

can anyone who has the pioneer check if they have the same problem

of course I am testing this with mute on when I have a player connected just to see if there is noise anywhere


----------



## WinWiz

DrewV said:


> Loving the unit so far. I haven't come anywhere close to using the L/R TA and EQ features to their fullest extent yet. Just basically did the Autotune and some basic EQ to correct the lows and highs. Played with the crossovers a bit and ended up with something that I enjoy listening to. Probably won't win any competitions, but so far it's the best sounding system I've ever owned.
> 
> What amazes me is that if I play a track with a quiet section, I can turn up the volume virtually all the way without introducing any background noise or hiss. I've never had a head unit that could do that before. Attack and separation in the music is as distinct as anything I've ever heard. Of course, I'm no pro. But to my ears, it sounds great.
> 
> I thought it would take me forever to learn the menus and features. But it really only took about an hour or so just playing around with it to figure it all out. I know some people complain about the "beep" when you press the buttons when making adjustments, but I hardly ever really notice it. I set mine up with the ASWC steering wheel controls and everything auto-detected perfectly.
> 
> My only complaint is that when I use the Bluetooth for my phone, the person on the other end hears a constant buzz in the background. It's not very loud, but it's there. All the time. I've tried moving my microphone, but it doesn't help. I don't spend much time on the phone anyway, so I don't really worry about it.
> 
> Overall I'm extremely glad I made the purchase.


I regard the 80prs as one of the best investments I ever made. So much joy for a very reasonably price! 
But I also get complaints about bluetooth voice quality. I think it was better when I had the mic mounted almost behind the steering wheel in the speedo. Currently its located on my flip down sun visor. I have also noticed a change when I flash a custom ROM on my android phone, so phone definitely also plays a part.
The 80PRS have great bluetooth compatibility with different devices, I know this because lots of people with my phone and ROM complain that BT is not working or buggy, but I never have any problems pairing my phone and the 80PRS.


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> hello everyone
> 
> I did notice a weird things with my pioneer prs80,
> 
> when I turn the volume to 62, and select the source to be aux 1 or 2 I hear static noise if no devise or player is to connected to the aux 1 or 2.
> 
> Once I connect a devise like an external player to the aux in the pioneer I don't hear the static noise anymore.
> 
> So
> 
> aux1 or aux 2 selected as a source with an external player connected= no static noise
> 
> aux1 or aux2 selected as a source without an external player connected= static noise
> 
> can anyone who has the pioneer check if they have the same problem
> 
> of course I am testing this with mute on when I have a player connected just to see if there is noise anywhere


I have noticed something similar but I think its quite logical that mute also mutes any noise...
In my car a volume setting of 35 is REALLY loud so I don't really care about volumes above 40.


----------



## Hanatsu

WinWiz said:


> I regard the 80prs as one of the best investments I ever made. So much joy for a very reasonably price!
> But I also get complaints about bluetooth voice quality. I think it was better when I had the mic mounted almost behind the steering wheel in the speedo. Currently its located on my flip down sun visor. I have also noticed a change when I flash a custom ROM on my android phone, so phone definitely also plays a part.
> The 80PRS have great bluetooth compatibility with different devices, I know this because lots of people with my phone and ROM complain that BT is not working or buggy, but I never have any problems pairing my phone and the 80PRS.


Agree... best performance vs value you can get. I've always loved Alpine but Pioneer offers a better DSP. L/R EQ alone at this price point is unbeatable. L/R EQ is such an important feature that I'm kinda baffled Alpine or any other brand hasn't released a HU with similar features. Alpine should introduce an unit with 9-band parametric EQ L/R together with L/R crossover settings, this would probably be enough to take care of the worst issues.


----------



## bbfoto

WinWiz said:


> Amazon has 9 left in stock, $277.77 & FREE Shipping
> Amazon.com: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment: Car Electronics


If you email abt.com for their best price, I checked last week and it was $259 with Free Shipping & No Tax in most states.  It's a no-brainer at that price.


----------



## hykhleif

does the 80prs support 64GB sdcards


----------



## WinWiz

No I don't think so


----------



## CrossFired

I have another Update! I'm now running a 80prs again. I still feel it's got a hard midrange, but in my current system of Morel speakers and Boston GT amps, it's much much better then I remember. I believe my old setup with Pioneer PRS 720's and Pioneer Class D amps did not help my issues with the very hard unforgiving midrange. My older system was in an older Land cruiser, with a lot of metal and glass. The LC now has the Alpine 117 with the Audissy XT. My current system is not the best I've heard, but it sound pretty dam good for a simple HU, amps and 5 speakers.

I kept thinking Pioneer would come out with a better HU, like a 81 or 80 mk II, but that does not seem to be happening for a while(if at all). So I'll just suffer on with the 80prs

After trying a few other brands, over the last couple of years, I've come full circle, as for the Pioneers short comings, the other brands are worse(I'm speaking of features, and no so much SQ).

So if your starting from scratch, the 80PRS is pretty much the best of the bunch.


----------



## CrossFired

hykhleif said:


> does the 80prs support 64GB sdcards


It would not have any issue with the size, but given the SDHC topped out at 32, it may not read the later type of SD. But you can put all your stuff on a 500gb HD, it will read that.


----------



## WinWiz

CrossFired said:


> I have another Update! I'm now running a 80prs again. I still feel it's got a hard midrange, but in my current system of Morel speakers and Boston GT amps, it's much much better then I remember. I believe my old setup with Pioneer PRS 720's and Pioneer Class D amps did not help my issues with the very hard unforgiving midrange. My older system was in an older Land cruiser, with a lot of metal and glass. The LC now has the Alpine 117 with the Audissy XT. My current system is not the best I've heard, but it sound pretty dam good for a simple HU, amps and 5 speakers.
> 
> I kept thinking Pioneer would come out with a better HU, like a 81 or 80 mk II, but that does not seem to be happening for a while(if at all). So I'll just suffer on with the 80prs
> 
> After trying a few other brands, over the last couple of years, I've come full circle, as for the Pioneers short comings, the other brands are worse(I'm speaking of features, and no so much SQ).
> 
> So if your starting from scratch, the 80PRS is pretty much the best of the bunch.


Welcome back in the Pio camp 
I think the 80PRS price/performance ratio is so competitive, Pioneer doesn't really have any reason to update it before another brand designs something thats able to compete...


----------



## kyheng

WinWiz said:


> Welcome back in the Pio camp
> I think the 80PRS price/performance ratio is so competitive, Pioneer doesn't really have any reason to update it before another brand designs something thats able to compete...


Nope, Pioneer needs to redesign the RCA output stage.


----------



## CrossFired

kyheng said:


> Nope, Pioneer needs to redesign the RCA output stage.


I'd like to see BBE come back, as it sounded really good on my 800 prs.

But losing the CD and adding a SATA 3 port, and a bay(like some Sony's) to slip in a SSD terabyte drive would be nice.


----------



## WinWiz

kyheng said:


> Nope, Pioneer needs to redesign the RCA output stage.


What is wrong with the RCA outputs, I don't see users complaining?
Are you referring to the Pico fuse?


----------



## WinWiz

CrossFired said:


> I'd like to see BBE come back, as it sounded really good on my 800 prs.
> 
> But losing the CD and adding a SATA 3 port, and a bay(like some Sony's) to slip in a SSD terabyte drive would be nice.


BBE thats a feature to "reconstruct" info lost with lossy compression right?
I'm sure 320kbps Mp3 or lossless will always sound better than low bitrate files encoded with lossy formats, so I don't care about features trying to reconstruct lost details. 
I don't use the CD drive, but I guess at this price point some users are still utilizing it. SSD is possible but of course you would have to use a case with a usb connector...


----------



## CrossFired

No, BBE is a compressor type unit used in most recording studios. Having it in a car system gives the sound a more life like presentation. It's not a gimmick for Lossy type music. it works really well, improving the tone, stage and SQ of the music. It's what made the 880/800 sound much better than the 80(imo).:surprised: 

Also, Pioneer had to pay a license fee for every unit the had BBE. I feel they just cheap'd out.

http://www.bbesound.com




WinWiz said:


> BBE thats a feature to "reconstruct" info lost with lossy compression right?
> I'm sure 320kbps Mp3 or lossless will always sound better than low bitrate files encoded with lossy formats, so I don't care about features trying to reconstruct lost details.
> I don't use the CD drive, but I guess at this price point some users are still utilizing it. SSD is possible but of course you would have to use a case with a usb connector...


----------



## WinWiz

CrossFired said:


> No, BBE is a compressor type unit used in most recording studios. Having it in a car system gives the sound a more life like presentation. It's not a gimmick for Lossy type music. it works really well, improving the tone, stage and SQ of the music. It's what made the 880/800 sound much better than the 80(imo).:surprised:
> 
> Also, Pioneer had to pay a license fee for every unit the had BBE. I feel they just cheap'd out.
> 
> Welcome to BBE Sound


Well BBE is marketed as a feature to enhance Mp3 and WMA playback. Some of the very best recordings was created 30 years ago. I can't imagine they used BBE processing, back then.
The 800PRS is a lot more expensive so naturally it should sound better.


----------



## CrossFired

Maybe you should do some research instead of guess, as if you know what your talking about. 

I had a studio in the 80's and I had to slam down $1500. for a BBE processor, as it was the industry standard. I don't know what it did exactly, but once you ran music thru it, it came out sounding Fantastic! I think mine was called an aural exciter, but I can't remember all the names of stuff in my rack(from 33 years ago).

Every hi-end studio has BBE products in there racks. Now a days, it's likely an app/software for a Mac.

Pioneer payed for BBE, when Hi End HU's where still in demand. 75% of HU users want Nav/DVD, and could care less about SQ. This is why Pioneer stopped licensing BBE(IMO), and not because it did not work.




WinWiz said:


> Well BBE is marketed as a feature to enhance Mp3 and WMA playback. Some of the very best recordings was created 30 years ago. I can't imagine they used BBE processing, back then.
> The 800PRS is a lot more expensive so naturally it should sound better.


----------



## WinWiz

CrossFired said:


> Maybe you should do some research instead of guess, as if you know what your talking about.
> 
> I had a studio in the 80's and I had to slam down $1500. for a BBE processor, as it was the industry standard. I don't know what it did exactly, but once you ran music thru it, it came out sounding Fantastic! I think mine was called an aural exciter, but I can't remember all the names of stuff in my rack(from 33 years ago).
> 
> Every hi-end studio has BBE products in there racks. Now a days, it's likely an app/software for a Mac.
> 
> Pioneer payed for BBE, when Hi End HU's where still in demand. 75% of HU users want Nav/DVD, and could care less about SQ. This is why Pioneer stopped licensing BBE(IMO), and not because it did not work.


This "fact" is something I found on the BBE homepage:

BBE Sonic Maximizer processors are hugely successful in the pro audio world. Discerning music professionals have made the BBE 482 Sonic Maximizer the third best-selling studio processor in the USA. BBE 482 is the only sound enhancement device to be in the top 10 list.

Source: Music & Sound Retailer dealer poll 2001

So NO EVERY studio doesn't use "sound enhancement" from BBE.
The only name I could find on BBE's outdated homepage known for HiFi was Paul McCartney.
I think Pioneer did wise when they decided not to pay a high amount of dollar for a hyped software algorithm like this.

This image is also from the BBE marketing you linked:








Reliably restoring lost detail like this simply isn't possible and it sure isn't what I understand as true HiFi.


----------



## CrossFired

Funny, how many studio have you been in? I've been/work in some of the top studio's in the world. 

Only fools look at facts and see lies. You've clearly shown your ignorance to pro audio. 

Sorry I tried to help you out with some good info, You can lead a donkey to water...





WinWiz said:


> This "fact" is something I found on the BBE homepage:
> 
> BBE Sonic Maximizer processors are hugely successful in the pro audio world. Discerning music professionals have made the BBE 482 Sonic Maximizer the third best-selling studio processor in the USA. BBE 482 is the only sound enhancement device to be in the top 10 list.
> 
> Source: Music & Sound Retailer dealer poll 2001
> 
> So NO EVERY studio doesn't use "sound enhancement" from BBE.
> The only name I could find on BBE's outdated homepage know for HiFi was Paul McCartney.
> I think Pioneer did wise when they decided not to pay a high amount of dollar for a hyped software algorithm like this.


:stupid:


----------



## WinWiz

CrossFired said:


> Funny, how many studio have you been in? I've been/work in some of the top studio's in the world.
> 
> Only fools look at facts and see lies. You've clearly shown your ignorance to pro audio.
> 
> Sorry I tried to help you out with some good info, You can lead a donkey to water...
> 
> :stupid:


Actually HiFi and Pro audio are two different things.
Well BBE might have been great in the 1980. I remember my fathers tape recorder with Dolby NR and back then I did think it was cool.
But today we dont use tapes and Dolby NR because we have better options.
I think the biggest fools are the ones who believes audiophile marketing with lots of hyped words without any scepticism...
I don't like companies demanding royalties for software thats probably available for free from other sources.
This is also something I found on BBE's webpage:
Quote: "The "BBE Constituency" can mean a significant increase in sales volume for BBE licensees and perhaps a price premium to enhance margins!"

I'm sure this is what its really all about, altering the sound to enhance margins!
Today BBE is even found in flat tvs with ****ty sound! 
In my book the end result should be as close to the source as possible, for true HiFi. Maybe you also think Beats by Dr. Dre is great?

I guess we will have to disagree on BBE.


----------



## Hanatsu

BBE was/is? a licensed technology that Pioneer used. They have something called "Sound Retriever" now instead. 

From Pioneer:



> BBE Digital divides the audio signals into three frequency bands and adjusts the speed of the sound waves so that the sound reaches the ear as it should for maximum listening pleasure. BBE adds a longer delay time to the lower frequencies and slightly boosts the high range, which tends to become attenuated, so that it recovers its natural articulation. And BBE dynamically controls the amplitude relationship between the mid and high band areas. This, in combination with the phase compensation feature, restores the brilliance and clarity of the original live sound. What BBE brings to the world of car audio is pure, natural sound that's as close to the original as possible.





> BBE High Definition Sound compensates for phase and amplitude distortion, restoring the brilliance and clarity of the original content material. The BBE High Definition Sound process begins by applying a linear phase shift across the full frequency range of the signal, which allows the speaker system to reproduce the transients and harmonics in the correct order. The BBE process then compensates for speaker amplitude distortion by progressively boosting lower and higher frequencies, and doing so within the context of the phase correction process. This efficiently creates a fuller, richer sound without excess equalization.





> BBE's sonic Maximizer system is based on the premise that most audio systems introduce unwanted phase shifts into the audio signal, resulting in a lack of clarity. To remedy this, the BBE processor splits the audio signal into three frequency bands, then applies different delays to each band to restore the original phase relationship of the harmonics making up the sound. On the models I've used, frequencies below 150Hz are delayed by around 2.5ms, while those between 150Hz and 1200Hz are delayed by about 0.5ms. Frequencies above 1200Hz are not delayed, but do have some form of dynamic control (compression/expansion) applied to them so as to enhance transients. Unlike the Aphex process described later, the BBE principle does not add new harmonics, but rather attempts to realign the relative phase of existing harmonics, as well as using dynamic processing to emphasise transients.
> 
> Essentially, the controls comprise a low-end EQ control to help balance the bass end against the enhanced top end, and a Definition control. LED metering shows the extent of the dynamic processing applied to the HF band and, on the models I've used, there has also been an Auto/Manual button. In Auto mode, the dynamic treatment of the HF band is determined by the dynamics of the mid-band signal; in Manual mode, the high band is subjected to a fixed degree of dynamic processing. The Definition control affects only the dynamic, high-band processing level -- the inter-band delays are always active when the process is engaged.
> Setting up a BBE sonic Maximizer usually entails selecting Auto mode, adjusting the Definition control to bring up the high end, then using the Lo-Contour control to make up for any lost bass end. Overall subjective brightness is increased, but the sound lacks the incisive (and sometimes fatiguing) edge of the harmonic exciter.


It's definitely some kind of processing algorithm, modifying phase and magnitude response in some kind of selective way. I don't see how it can restore lossy compression though, data lost is data lost.

For the record, I don't like using weirdo processing that modifies the signal in ways I cannot control. Alpine's MX, BBE, Sound Retriever... whatever. Just give me L/R EQ, active crossovers and T/A. It's enough tuning a system for "reference" sound inside a car.


----------



## CrossFired

I think Sound Retriever sounds like dog crap, BBE sounded Fantastic on my 800/880. But BBE had nothing to do with bring back lost information. It just made the music sound more natural(on setting 1), less fatiguing, but also more dynamic. It's a mute point, as Pioneer will never bring it back.

I've just given my 80 another listing session. I think I'll use my next bonus on a 99, as I'm just not loving the 80 as I should.




Hanatsu said:


> BBE was/is? a licensed technology that Pioneer used. They have something called "Sound Retriever" now instead.
> 
> From Pioneer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely some kind of processing algorithm, modifying phase and magnitude response in some kind of selective way. I don't see how it can restore lossy compression though, data lost is data lost.
> 
> For the record, I don't like using weirdo processing that modifies the signal in ways I cannot control. Alpine's MX, BBE, Sound Retriever... whatever. Just give me L/R EQ, active crossovers and T/A. It's enough tuning a system for "reference" sound inside a car.


----------



## CrossFired

WinWiz said:


> Maybe you also think Beats by Dr. Dre is great?


No need to try an insult me. But fyi, my Headphones are from the superior european country of Germany, My Amp and DAC where made in California, and are the Schiit!


----------



## REGULARCAB

hykhleif said:


> does the 80prs support 64GB sdcards


not sure about SD but im running a 64gig usb stick with no issues


----------



## eturk

anyone know latest version of AVRCP supported on DEH-80PRS?

seems Pioneer abandoned firmware updates on the deck after Jan 2013, even though Apple specifies v1.4 is required in Sept 2013 (even listing this deck specifically). Some car stereos require a firmware update for AVRCP 1.4 Bluetooth compatibility

Actually curious because of Android connectivity & bluetooth. 

cheers!


----------



## sqnut

CrossFired said:


> No, BBE is a compressor type unit used in most recording studios. Having it in a car system gives the sound a more life like presentation. It's not a gimmick for Lossy type music. it works really well, improving the tone, stage and SQ of the music. It's what made the 880/800 sound much better than the 80(imo).:surprised:
> 
> Also, Pioneer had to pay a license fee for every unit the had BBE. I feel they just cheap'd out.
> 
> Welcome to BBE Sound


BBE is just an eq setting. Bass Boost Engine. The name says it all. If you know how to tune you don't need BBE or any other gimmicky function. The 880 doesn't sound any different from the p80, I own both.


----------



## CrossFired

sqnut said:


> BBE is just an eq setting. Bass Boost Engine. The name says it all. If you know how to tune you don't need BBE or any other gimmicky function. The 880 doesn't sound any different from the p80, I own both.


I've owned mutable's of both, and an 800, 860 and 960.

I pulled my 800 and replaced it with an 80, back in April of 2012, the difference is night & day. The 800 had a more full and smoother sound, while the 80 seem to extract more detail, making it a little to analytical for my taste. If it were not for the most excellent USB on the 80(compared to any other brand), I'd never own one! I have managed to tam the 80, after a couple of hours with a AC RTA, but it's still too harsh at very loud volumes. The 800/880 never got harsh. Other than the lack of USB, the 800/880 was better in every respect(imo).

As for the BBE, your soo far off, I won't even go there.


----------



## Hanatsu

I've owned both 880, 80PRS and I own the P99RS as well. There's no audible difference between the "raw output". I done both blind tests and measurements to confirm it.

"Harsh" sound is either a FR issue or high amount of non-linear distortion. Any modern HU measures nearly flat and have non-linear distortion way below the audible threshold. So unless you taken precautions and used the exact same settings when you compared these units, the subjective review would be invalid. 

With all due respect, words like analytical, harsh, detail etc etc are just audiophile BS. Explain the difference with objective data (measurements) and we can have a meaningful discussion.


----------



## CrossFired

I don't think it's possible to have a meaningful discussion with you, as you believe your opinion is an absolute. IMO, objective data (measurements), are pretty much for folks with Tin ears. I did not get dozens of folks praising my installs, an winning SQ awards, because I can't hear. But call it as you will, I guess I'm a BS Audiophile in your eyes, and I'm fine with that. All I can say to you is, Ignorance is bliss.


----------



## FUTURISTiC

bbfoto said:


> If you email abt.com for their best price, I checked last week and it was $259 with Free Shipping & No Tax in most states.  It's a no-brainer at that price.


Just did this today. Tried to find the original post that I learned of this on to give thanks, but no luck so far, I'll keep searching. It was a short thread though.


----------



## lurch

DrewV said:


> I have a question (haven't run across it in this thread). When I hit the magnifying glass (search) button on the 80PRS, the folder list ALWAYS starts at the top, no matter which folder I'm currently in.
> 
> Shouldn't it start searching wherever the current track is already playing? I mean, why start at the top every time? Most other head units just start in the current folder. I hate having to scroll through the entire list every time I want to search for a track.
> 
> Or am I doing something wrong?


this question has come up three times on
this thread and never been answered. 
answer :
in the main menu, this is the menu that
comes up when key is on and deck is off,
press and hold control knob, main setup
menu appears. 
in here is : MUSIC BROWSE. 
select which input you want
EG: usb 1 , usb 2 , etc. 
now when browsing you have the choice
of finding your tunes by artist, gener, title
etc....

hope this helps. 
it IS in the manual, but not well outlined.


----------



## hykhleif

I bought a SanDisk 64Gb usb flash memory stick, and I formatted it to Fat 32, I keep getting error 23 on the pioneer 80prs

how can I solve that

Also if I have flac files, what shall I convert them to preserves audio quality without any loss of quality

is there a free program to convert flac files


----------



## Jepalan

CrossFired said:


> I don't think it's possible to have a meaningful discussion with you, as you believe your opinion is an absolute. IMO, objective data (measurements), are pretty much for folks with Tin ears. I did not get dozens of folks praising my installs, an winning SQ awards, because I can't hear. But call it as you will, I guess I'm a BS Audiophile in your eyes, and I'm fine with that. All I can say to you is, Ignorance is bliss.


Would you mind taking your personal flame war to private messaging. I for one am trying to read through this thread to learn about the DEH-80PRS before I pull the trigger on one and it is amazing how much off-topic chaff there is in here.

:thumbsdown:


----------



## spyders03

hykhleif said:


> I bought a SanDisk 64Gb usb flash memory stick, and I formatted it to Fat 32, I keep getting error 23 on the pioneer 80prs
> 
> how can I solve that
> 
> Also if I have flac files, what shall I convert them to preserves audio quality without any loss of quality
> 
> is there a free program to convert flac files


The 80 will only read up to 32gb sd cards and thumb drives. Also covering to WAV will preserve audio quality. 

Swyped while Swerving


----------



## WinWiz

hykhleif said:


> I bought a SanDisk 64Gb usb flash memory stick, and I formatted it to Fat 32, I keep getting error 23 on the pioneer 80prs
> 
> how can I solve that
> 
> Also if I have flac files, what shall I convert them to preserves audio quality without any loss of quality
> 
> is there a free program to convert flac files


Foobar is a great opensource program with easy conversion to just about any format.


----------



## hykhleif

spyders03 said:


> The 80 will only read up to 32gb sd cards and thumb drives. Also covering to WAV will preserve audio quality.
> 
> Swyped while Swerving


I solved the flash memory thing by using an HP format tool, and it reads my 64GB flash memory without a problem now.

I will use wav then to maintain audio quality of my flac files


----------



## fahrfrompuken

hykhleif said:


> I solved the flash memory thing by using an HP format tool, and it reads my 64GB flash memory without a problem now.
> 
> I will use wav then to maintain audio quality of my flac files


Link to the HP tool?


----------



## CrossFired

I'll make it easy for you. For the few issues the 80 has, there's nothing better for the money! I've managed to tame the hard midrange by turning off the Auto EQ, and crossing my mids at 2k with a 1st order. Tweeters are 4k with a 2nd order.

I get a very flat response using a AC RTA. And better yet, It sounds good.




Jepalan said:


> Would you mind taking your personal flame war to private messaging. I for one am trying to read through this thread to learn about the DEH-80PRS before I pull the trigger on one and it is amazing how much off-topic chaff there is in here.
> 
> :thumbsdown:


----------



## sqnut

CrossFired said:


> I get a very flat response using a AC RTA. And better yet, It sounds good.


An Rta flat response normally does not sound good. 

[Rant] I've been running the p80 for the last ten days since my bit10 finally bit the dust. Of course, there is a big difference between the p80 and a full blown processor. A much wider span of control at much finer resolution _per driver_ on the processor vs a limited span at a much coarser resolution _per side_. 

I've been trying to get some what close to the sound I had with the bit10. I'm ok with the xovers and slopes but what really irks me is the eq. To start with 16 bands of geq per side are not enough 31 per side like on the p99 are a min. However the cherry on the icing is the fact that resolution on the eq is in +/- 2db steps. While that may be passable at the lower end say 20-80hz, trying to dial in the midrange from 300-2khz at +/- 2db steps is a b****. Net result, the frickin thing never sounds right. You're either almost there or you're overcooked. It's never close enough to just right Frustrating as hell!!

[/Rant]


----------



## CrossFired

I like the flat sound, as everything sounds good, but nothing sounds bad.

I talking about different types of music. 





sqnut said:


> An Rta flat response normally does not sound good.
> 
> [Rant] I've been running the p80 for the last ten days since my bit10 finally bit the dust. Of course, there is a big difference between the p80 and a full blown processor. A much wider span of control at much finer resolution _per driver_ on the processor vs a limited span at a much coarser resolution _per side_.
> 
> I've been trying to get some what close to the sound I had with the bit10. I'm ok with the xovers and slopes but what really irks me is the eq. To start with 16 bands of geq per side are not enough 31 per side like on the p99 are a min. However the cherry on the icing is the fact that resolution on the eq is in +/- 2db steps. While that may be passable at the lower end say 20-80hz, trying to dial in the midrange from 300-2khz at +/- 2db steps is a b****. Net result, the frickin thing never sounds right. You're either almost there or you're overcooked. It's never close enough to just right Frustrating as hell!!
> 
> [/Rant]


----------



## rton20s

DEH-80PRS is still limited to 16 bands L/R EQ, but is adjustable in 1 dB increments. You can also adjust driver levels independently in 1 dB increments.


----------



## rton20s

CrossFired said:


> I like the flat sound, as everything sounds good, but nothing sounds bad.
> 
> I talking about different types of music.


If flat sounds good to you, then flat sounds good to you. I don't know very many people who tune to a board flat RTA response though. Well, unless they are competing in RTA Freq out. But that isn't about sound quality.


----------



## Hanatsu

Tuning a system "RTA flat" using pink noise? That's a recipe for crap... it won't sound right in any car. Generally the response 20Hz-20kHz should be tilted 20dB or so.


----------



## sqnut

CrossFired said:


> I like the flat sound, as everything sounds good, but nothing sounds bad.
> 
> I talking about different types of music.


The type of music you listen to makes no difference. In a car response is king. A flat response in a car will make all genres sound meh. The right response on the other hand will make all genres sound nice. When you think of a target curve for a car, think of a line sloping from 20-20k at about 2-3db/oct. In some parts of the spectrum the slope will be steeper and in others it may be shallower / flat. Part of your mid range 500-1khz typically needs a slight bump. 1.2-4khz is typically rolling off at about 5-6db/oct. Like Han mentioned a 20db drop from 20-20k is a good place to start.

Flat response in a car is as big a myth as SQ of amps.


----------



## sqnut

rton20s said:


> DEH-80PRS is still limited to 16 bands L/R EQ, but is adjustable in 1 dB increments.


Then that is one difference between the older 880 and the newer DEH-80PRS. 



rton20s said:


> You can also adjust driver levels independently in 1 dB increments.


Yeah that's fine no issues there.


----------



## tnbubba

Barcus Berry Electronics. BBE


----------



## xt577

*Digital Attenuator*

Digital Attenuator - not sure what to set this on. 

(pissed Pioneer didn't give the option to disable this feature altogether, I don't want my signal auto-attenuated)

Anyway, manual states "switch the digital att. to low to reduce distortion". Confusing wording I think. One would suspect the "high" setting would attenuate the most, right?


----------



## 27230

Anyone know of a comparable unit to this one? I've switched over to almost exclusively bluetooth streaming, but still want to run the iPod from time to time. CDs, I haven't used in years. HD Radio would be nice as well. Im running a basic 2 coaxial speakers (passive crossover) and a sub set up.


----------



## Jepalan

dan7u said:


> Anyone know of a comparable unit to this one? I've switched over to almost exclusively bluetooth streaming, but still want to run the iPod from time to time. CDs, I haven't used in years. HD Radio would be nice as well. Im running a basic 2 coaxial speakers (passive crossover) and a sub set up.


I'm confused by your question. Comparable to the 80PRS in what ways? The features you listed are not why people generally buy the 80PRS. Typically they buy it because they are looking for the best SQ HU that can easily run active and has separate L/R EQs plus triple 24bit DACs. 

What must-have 80PRS capabilities are you looking for in other HUs?


----------



## CrossFired

If you listen to any AM radio, forget the 80, as it has the worse AM I've ever heard. The $100. Pioneers have the best AM and HD. So Pioneer decided you can have one or the other, but not both.




dan7u said:


> Anyone know of a comparable unit to this one? I've switched over to almost exclusively bluetooth streaming, but still want to run the iPod from time to time. CDs, I haven't used in years. HD Radio would be nice as well. Im running a basic 2 coaxial speakers (passive crossover) and a sub set up.


----------



## rton20s

Dan7u, I agree with Jepalan. Based on what you say you're looking for, the DEH-80PRS is the wrong HU for you. I'd take a look at some of the Alpines that have the features that you're looking for.


----------



## 27230

I ask because I currently have one, and I was happy with it, but the front RCA outputs of the deck starting causing on/off pop & whine on the left and some popping during playing on the right. It would kick the amp into protect every time it happened. I moved the speakers to the rear output and it solved the problem, but now I can't use the time alignment feature properly. From what I've read, this deck no longer uses the pico fuses. Anyone run into this same issue and know of a repair?


----------



## CrossFired

You could run a ground from the RCA ground to the radio chassis. That got rid of noise on my past Pioneer's.




dan7u said:


> I ask because I currently have one, and I was happy with it, but the front RCA outputs of the deck starting causing on/off pop & whine on the left and some popping during playing on the right. It would kick the amp into protect every time it happened. I moved the speakers to the rear output and it solved the problem, but now I can't use the time alignment feature properly. From what I've read, this deck no longer uses the pico fuses. Anyone run into this same issue and know of a repair?


----------



## ScaryfatkidGT

dan7u said:


> Anyone know of a comparable unit to this one? I've switched over to almost exclusively bluetooth streaming, but still want to run the iPod from time to time. CDs, I haven't used in years. HD Radio would be nice as well. Im running a basic 2 coaxial speakers (passive crossover) and a sub set up.





Jepalan said:


> I'm confused by your question. Comparable to the 80PRS in what ways? The features you listed are not why people generally buy the 80PRS. Typically they buy it because they are looking for the best SQ HU that can easily run active and has separate L/R EQs plus triple 24bit DACs.
> 
> What must-have 80PRS capabilities are you looking for in other HUs?


Yeah I wouldn't spend $300 on a SQ HU for bluetooth streaming.



CrossFired said:


> If you listen to any AM radio, forget the 80, as it has the worse AM I've ever heard. The $100. Pioneers have the best AM and HD. So Pioneer decided you can have one or the other, but not both.


ummmm its AM.....



dan7u said:


> I ask because I currently have one, and I was happy with it, but the front RCA outputs of the deck starting causing on/off pop & whine on the left and some popping during playing on the right. It would kick the amp into protect every time it happened. I moved the speakers to the rear output and it solved the problem, but now I can't use the time alignment feature properly. From what I've read, this deck no longer uses the pico fuses. Anyone run into this same issue and know of a repair?


I think any properly working HU would work, this isn't a known alpine issue or anything is it?

I always liked alpine until I found out there new stuff is all iPhone app bassed..... stupid id rather have a real HU like the 80 haha


----------



## 27230

delete


----------



## ScaryfatkidGT

dan7u said:


> I prefer the 80 as well. An update to the unit to include those extra features would be nice though.
> 
> Any other recommendations besides grounding the RCA? I know on my old Pioneer unit that used the pico fuses, I was able to solder in and run an external fuse to solve the problem.


What HD radio? It has bluetooth

I was going to get a 117 but the only one the shop had was damaged so I got my CDA-123 (i think) I currently have and its ok but the 80PRS will be my next deck unless I win some money and get the 99.


----------



## 27230

Just found out that bluetooth calls don't work with the rear speakers, so I'll defiantly have to find a solution to this problem.


----------



## xt577

*Re: Digital Attenuator*



xt577 said:


> Digital Attenuator - not sure what to set this on.
> 
> (pissed Pioneer didn't give the option to disable this feature altogether, I don't want my signal auto-attenuated)
> 
> Anyway, manual states "switch the digital att. to low to reduce distortion". Confusing wording I think. One would suspect the "high" setting would attenuate the most, right?


Does anyone know?


----------



## CrossFired

*Re: Digital Attenuator*



xt577 said:


> Does anyone know?


I've never given it much though, as I though it was for phone stuff.


----------



## Jepalan

*Re: Digital Attenuator*



xt577 said:


> Digital Attenuator - not sure what to set this on.
> (pissed Pioneer didn't give the option to disable this feature altogether, I don't want my signal auto-attenuated)
> Anyway, manual states "switch the digital att. to low to reduce distortion". Confusing wording I think. One would suspect the "high" setting would attenuate the most, right?


I agree that they have named the setting "backwards". To me, after reading the manual context, "High" means "higher level using more bits" and "Low" means "lower level using fewer bits with more headroom". So either they should have swapped High and Low or called it Digital Gain.

I have <tweaked> the mistakes in the manual - this is what I think they meant...

Digital ATT (digital <gain>)

When listening to a CD or other source on which the recording level is high, setting the equalizer curve level <too> high may result in <digitally generated> distortion. In this case, you can switch the digital <gain> to "LOW" to reduce distortion.

Note: Sound quality is better at the "HIGH" setting <because more bits are used to represent the signal dynamic range> so this setting is usually used.


----------



## tnbubba

no i have a 128G flash drive on mine

works fine..little sloww booting up though..
i think splitting between 92) 64's woudl boot access times to files


----------



## nervewrecker

Guys, I have successfully connected three devices to my 80prs and I no longer own two of them. I'd like to remove the two that I don't own and add two new ones. The method stated on page 32 of the manual does not work for me. 
Any suggestions? One device is a blackberry playbook and the other is a Samsung galaxy tab 2 if that helps.


----------



## jobo_ph

nervewrecker said:


> Guys, I have successfully connected three devices to my 80prs and I no longer own two of them. I'd like to remove the two that I don't own and add two new ones. The method stated on page 32 of the manual does not work for me.
> Any suggestions? One device is a blackberry playbook and the other is a Samsung galaxy tab 2 if that helps.


Maybe you just missed the Press and Hold MC on step 2 on that section?

Otherwise, you can opt for Clear memory on Initial Setup (page 36) then add the devices again.


----------



## nervewrecker

Thanks, I did some reading and reached page 36. I cleared the memory and added my new devices. 

Thanks though


----------



## dmtjeep

New 80PRS owner and new to posting here. Thanks for all the good discussion. I bought the 80PRS for my full Grand Cherokee build. I also did a quick (ebay sourced) install in my Accord while the Jeep is disassembled. I decided to put the 80 in the Honda. First reaction to Auto EQ/TA was amazement. I have not built a stereo in over 10 years so getting back to the hobby took some research. I want to thank everyone who appreciate the technical side. I forgot how awesome music can be with a good system. I am so glad I took everyone's advice and spent the most money I could on expensive RCA cables. I will be posting the build log for the Grand Cherokee soon. 

80PRS
Alpine MRX-V60 and MRX-M50 (for now)
Tang Band and Dayton Speakers
Quintuple Shielded Palladium/Unobtanium XDR-75 RCA cables. To make up for Class D amps not sounding so good.


----------



## percy072

Experimenting today and found that when I reversed polarity on my left mid the sound stage became so much wider and less compressed especially vocals. But then found that it would not leave one in REV and the other in NOR  it would only leave it either both reversed or both normal...

So I physically interchanged the leads on the left mid, set the polarity to NOR on the head unit. So now even though the head unit has both mids as NOR...the left is physically wired reversed polarity. 

Am I missing something...or will the 80prs in fact not allow for independently setting one mid out of phase with the other??


----------



## Golden Ear

dmtjeep said:


> Quintuple Shielded Palladium/Unobtanium XDR-75 RCA cables. To make up for Class D amps not sounding so good.


Lol:laugh:


----------



## ghionw

Not sure if this was discussed here already or not, but do I have the ability to see the eq graph of what the autoEq did. After auto T/A and EQ, it sets the eq to flat. Or is my only option to leave autoEq on and customize the flat curve setting to add additional customization to what the autoEq sets?


----------



## Babs

ghionw said:


> Not sure if this was discussed here already or not, but do I have the ability to see the eq graph of what the autoEq did. After auto T/A and EQ, it sets the eq to flat. Or is my only option to leave autoEq on and customize the flat curve setting to add additional customization to what the autoEq sets?



Same here. I'd like to know. While it appears you can see the levels, phasing, TA, it'd be good reference point to see what EQ has been applied by auto EQ so what your tweaking would be overall if letting auto TA/EQ do the 90% of your tune. 

For note I'm quite impressed with the auto tuning on this head unit. Spanks the MS-8 I used prior IMO though I'm using better tweets and tweet locations this go around and none of the logic 7 phantom center stuff. Not to mention far better DAC's and signal quality than the OEM to a MS-8.


----------



## ghionw

I think it attenuates my subs and tweets more than I like them to be. maybe I am too much of a bass head. or it just works for listening in a total silent environment. Doesn't quite help me since I am listening to it while I am driving. Decent starting point for a noob like myself.


----------



## xt577

*Re: Digital Attenuator*



Jepalan said:


> I agree that they have named the setting "backwards". To me, after reading the manual context, "High" means "higher level using more bits" and "Low" means "lower level using fewer bits with more headroom". So either they should have swapped High and Low or called it Digital Gain.
> 
> I have <tweaked> the mistakes in the manual - this is what I think they meant...
> 
> Digital ATT (digital <gain>)
> 
> When listening to a CD or other source on which the recording level is high, setting the equalizer curve level <too> high may result in <digitally generated> distortion. In this case, you can switch the digital <gain> to "LOW" to reduce distortion.
> 
> Note: Sound quality is better at the "HIGH" setting <because more bits are used to represent the signal dynamic range> so this setting is usually used.


Thanks, that's probably the most ***ked up section in the whole manual.


----------



## balane

This is a very long thread and while this has likely been answered before I would very much appreciate some direction. I'm a new DEH-80PRS owner and I have some questions.

I running an active set up with tweeters, 6.5" mids and a single sub. I'm happy with my crossover settings, at least for now. I believe my EQ'ing could use some work however. I'm getting a little too much nasal sounding vocals from singers who sing like Tom Petty, Talking Heads, etc. This overt nasal quality can get a little tiring after listening a while at higher volumes.

I'm not really looking for help in getting rid of this, I can handle it, but I just need some help on performing the actual adjustments on the 80PRS EQ. 

I ran the Auto EQ to get things started. Sound stage ended up very nice in my opinion. But where do I go to make further changes to what the Auto EQ did? When I go into any of the EQ adjustment pages the EQ's are flat. I can't even see what the Auto EQ settings look like at this point.

I'm guessing that it's something obvious I'm not seeing but if anybody could direct me as to how I can make manual changes to the Auto EQ settings I would appreciate it.

Thank you.


----------



## dmtjeep

Newer 80PRS user here so please jump in if I am wrong. 

From what I understand, Auto TA and EQ set a new baseline for the system. You then tailor from that baseline when going through the audio menus. You can set your own TA under Time Alignment 2. TA 1 is the system TA and has two choices. Initial and Auto. I also think the changes the HU makes stay behind the interface so you can't see what the unit did to each parameter. I have one 80PRS running passive with front and rear components in a sedan, and one running full active in an SUV. There are differences in network and standard mode, but as far as I can tell, Auto TA/EQ sets a new baseline. 

I hope that helps. I will post any more things I learn, but at 150 pages this thread probably has the answers you need. 

+1 Search Function.


----------



## Babs

It shows the individual levels and TA settings the auto-tune did, but shows EQ flat so you don't see the new 'baseline' set by auto tune. Very odd.


----------



## Sabbra

I´m a new user, and made a simple install with no RCA.
I´m using only the HU and a German Maestro 2-ways EPIC
so far, I find the sound quality very pleasent


----------



## sqshoestring

You can't see the auto EQ it does. You can mod the various eq curves however, but all are on top of the auto curve (if used). The #2 curve changes with the source iirc, the others don't. You can also EQ the L and R separately and get rid of some artifacts in the sound that way. Most recommend as with most all EQs you don't use the top 1/3 or so of the range to boost a lot, try to change your amp gains or install instead if you can.


----------



## ghionw

^^ Was this an answer for me. If so, I am lost.


----------



## RobERacer

Hey Guys. There are actually 3 levels of EQ. Level 1 is the auto eq/TA/outut gain settings. Second we have the factory presets AKA graphic #1. Graphic #2 allows you to make adjustmenst to graphic #1 independant of the auto eq. From what I understand the unit does the auto eq using it's own parametrics. I thought I remebered hearing somewhere that it is 9 band. A thing to note. I had to redo mine. Not sure but I think if you auto eq with a preset engaged other than "FLAT" the auto eq in compensating against the other EQ's as well. Mine just sounded over processed to me. I am happier now but it is not perfect.


----------



## rton20s

Where are you seeing that Auto EQ uses a parametric equalizer? Much less a 9 band specifically? I haven't seen that information anywhere reputable, and it just doesn't make sense to me given the built-in 16 band L/R EQ. The only reference I saw to "parametric" anywhere were from a couple of random websites (using the same text) not associated with Pioneer or any reputable resellers.


----------



## Hanatsu

AutoEQ uses the bands available in the unit. Nothing else.


----------



## rton20s

Just to clarify, per the manual. When you run Auto TA & EQ the unit resets the fade/balance back to center and the graphic EQ is switched to "Flat". 

As far as the EQ settings, this is how it breaks down. 

*EQ 1 - Curve Selection*
Superbass
Powerful
Natural
Vocal
Flat
Custom 1 (Source Dependent)
Custom 2 (Universal)

*EQ 2 - Curve Adjustment*
16 Band L/R Graphic Adjustment
Max. +6 to -6 dB adjustments available dependent on selected EQ Curve
"Flat" can not be adjusted (that is what the other curves are for)
Available Bands: 20-31.5-50-80-125-200-315-500-800-1.25k-2k-3.15k-5k-8k-12.5k-20k


----------



## Hanatsu

rton20s said:


> Available Bands: 20-31.5-50-80-125-200-315-500-800-1.25k-2k-3.15k-5k-8k-12.5k-20k


Wish they removed the 20Hz and 20k and replaced them with 63 and 100Hz


----------



## rton20s

Hanatsu said:


> Wish they removed the 20Hz and 20k and replaced them with 63 and 100Hz


I agree.  It certainly could have helped my tuning. Though, I do like having adjustment at both "extremes" of the spectrum.


----------



## elprup

Hanatsu said:


> Wish they removed the 20Hz and 20k and replaced them with 63 and 100Hz


I was thinking the DEX-P1R had at least one of those, but it didn't...which makes sense because then the band spacing wouldn't have been uniform. It offered the same bands except its lowest started at 50 and its highest ended at 12.5k. Aside from gaining L/R ability, the 80PRS picked up 20 & 31.5 at the bottom and 20k at the top.


----------



## Hanatsu

Even the P99 EQ is limited, a standalone DSP will always be preferable. A graphic EQ should should have 1/6oct spacing to be able to compete with parametric EQs. Especially the region 100-200Hz is problematic in most installs without PEQ. Still, the 80prs is the best entry level SQ unit you can get imo


----------



## RobERacer

rton20s said:


> Where are you seeing that Auto EQ uses a parametric equalizer? Much less a 9 band specifically? I haven't seen that information anywhere reputable, and it just doesn't make sense to me given the built-in 16 band L/R EQ. The only reference I saw to "parametric" anywhere were from a couple of random websites (using the same text) not associated with Pioneer or any reputable resellers.



I think I might have got that from some third party site or something but you are right Pioneer doesn't really say much about it at all. More than that I haven't been happy with the results of the auto eq either so that could be partly why. I let the installer do it once and it came out harsh and mid rangey. I redid it with the mic on the driver's headrest. It came out ok (just ok, not wow.) but when I sat in the passenger seat it sucked. I saw some guys use a strap and attached the mic to the strap in between the seats. I also thought of sticking it to my camera tripod and putting that right above the armrest. I hate that it seems to leave this huge spike around 750 hz. Not sure why it does that. I thought that maybe it was because the other eq was engaged when the installer did it but even though it is less that spike is still there after my last tune. In theory it should come out pretty wow without me touching it. As far is 16 bands... I would have prefered parametric for this. Sometimes you just need tighter Q. Also .25 or smaller steps on the gain side would have been a big plus. There are very few raw drivers that don't need that kind of tweaking. I wish someone made a unit with a digital output. I probably would have done that instead. The computer thinks it is good but it really is not! I can make it better after the fact but of course I am loosing intelligibility doing that. Thoughts.


----------



## RobERacer

I just decided I am going to try it with the camera tripod. If the mic is more there then it might hear the mid range thing that I am. Also time alignment will be more neutral. I often sit in the passenger seat on long trips too as we trade drivers so it is important to me that it is good in both seats. No reason it shouldn't be. 
Guys, I am intending to go to a digital processor eventually as I do need more fine control. I hate the added conversions. It actually makes a huge difference and particularly it tends to resolve higher frequencies less and becomes much more harsh due to the added distortion. Have any of you heard of any of the manufacturers planning to re implement a digital output option for some of their head units? I hate replacing something that has nothing wrong with it but I really don't want to convert back to analogue and then go back to digital to process and back. Analogue processing is an other option but I need low and high in stereo and sub in mono (or stereo and I can mono it at the amp).


----------



## sqnut

When you're balancing L/R above ~400 the hotter side jumps around from side to side. Just easier to manage with a GEQ. I'm all for the concept of an 1/6 oct eq, I would love to experiment with it. But from a practical stand point it would make using the eq 10X more difficult. At least for those of us tuning by ear. An 80% accuracy on is it better or worse at 1/6 oct at a 0.3db resolution, that's at least a years worth of sustained tuning at 1/6.


----------



## RobERacer

When you say jumps from side to side are you referring to the fact that some midrange frequencies like the 400hz region tend to resonate in cars a lot? I have read what you said a few times to try to understand what you meant and this is all I could come up with. Actually that is a very common frequency group to cause resonations in general because absorbing them is a little more difficult than higher frequencies. That is actually a good example of where a more surgical approach to eq would be more beneficial. If you looked at it on a finer detail spectrum analyser (as an example SIA Smaart) you would notice that the grouping of frequencies affected is very small as is common with a resonance like that. It may only require 1.25db of attenuation to offset it but if you took a slider on a graphic eq because the grouping is so large you may need to attenuate 5 db or so and boost the two adjacent sliders in order to compensate correctly. This works because of the fact that eq does it's adjustments in a curve and that curve actually overlaps with the intended frequency set of the adjacent set. If you could get in and grab a much smaller frequency set you could do you minor alteration thereby offsetting a far smaller section of the spectrum and thereby maintain better linearity. The other thing that a system like Smaart would tell you is that at that frequency (the discussed resonance that is) coherence is at issue because reducing the volume didn't stop the sound from resonating which is actually holding the tone longer that it is supposed to. It is just doing it at a lowered spl as compared to the surrounding frequencies so it seems more natural. Obviously where possible eliminating a resonance like that is key but as I say easier said than done. 400hz likes to resonate. 
As far as skill level. We have a saying "It isn't rocket science". That laughable part is it is accoustic science which is just as complicated but unlike rocket science we don't have to shoot metal into space in order to perform experiments to gain a better understanding of it. It looks like you have the tools in general assuming the bit ten does parametric eq. Make sure you save your favorite settings but go ahead make some changes and see what they do. The best way I found to zero in on an annoying frequency is at MODERATE monitoring volume (so as not to damage either your hearing or the gear) take a parametric filter set to a wider bandwidth at a center frequency that is in the realm of what you are hearing and "goose it". As you change the bandwidth to a finer setting you will find you loose the annoying tone. What has happened is that the annoying tone is now outside your chosen bandwidth so by adjusting your center frequency find where it is loudest and repeat that process until you have as close to just that frequency you were looking for as possible. Now you can attenuate it back to where it sounds natural. Not how little adjustment it required to make it sound natural. Also I will tell you that over time you get more adept at hearing finer detail and that .25db change becomes very noticeable. It is all just a matter of practice just like baseball really. I should mention this just for anyone who doesn't know but crossover settings are there to stop the wrong part of the spectrum going to the wrong driver. They are in fact finite and actually the correct settings are best determined by assessing the properties of each driver and comparing them directly. It is not something that has anything to do with artistic choice!!! In fact in some applications those settings are very specific and they are what they are because that is what the entire apparatus is designed around. The short version of all of this is that if your crossover point for you tweeters is 3.15khz, @ 24db/octave no you can't use 1khz with a 12db/octave as a crossover point instead. The speakers aren't designed to work that way. If you are missing part of the spectrum because of the efficiency of your drivers in that range then you really need to look at different driver configurations. A reasonable component set would be relatively even from 100hz to 15khz at the very least. You will not affect any better sonic performance by trying to make drivers operate outside of their designed operating frequency set so just don't do it and save yourself the heartache of the burnt up driver due to your own negligence. I actually heard someone talking about taking a set of Focal KRX2's and crossing them at 1khz. I cringed. Firstly, the tweeter would take on a very harsh tone but the next thing to happen would be the tweeter's death as one turned it up. Naturally once you get it sounding right the first thing we want to do is crank it right. Aramide fibre (kevlar) or not... Ouch!


----------



## sqnut

First up, thank you for taking the time to write up that mass of text. If you break up that one running thought into different issues/topics, chances are you will use the enter key off and on while typing, thereby making it easier to read.



RobERacer said:


> When you say jumps from side to side are you referring to the fact that some midrange frequencies like the 400hz region tend to resonate in cars a lot? I have read what you said a few times to try to understand what you meant and this is all I could come up with.


No, I'm talking about balancing L/R response not resonance.




RobERacer said:


> If you looked at it on a finer detail spectrum analyser (as an example SIA Smaart) you would notice that the grouping of frequencies affected is very small as is common with a resonance like that. It may only require 1.25db of attenuation to offset it but if you took a slider on a graphic eq because the grouping is so large you may need to attenuate 5 db or so and boost the two adjacent sliders in order to compensate correctly. This works because of the fact that eq does it's adjustments in a curve and that curve actually overlaps with the intended frequency set of the adjacent set. If you could get in and grab a much smaller frequency set you could do you minor alteration thereby offsetting a far smaller section of the spectrum and thereby maintain better linearity. The other thing that a system like Smaart would tell you is that at that frequency (the discussed resonance that is) coherence is at issue because reducing the volume didn't stop the sound from resonating which is actually holding the tone longer that it is supposed to. It is just doing it at a lowered spl as compared to the surrounding frequencies so it seems more natural. Obviously where possible eliminating a resonance like that is key but as I say easier said than done. 400hz likes to resonate.


Not sure what you're trying to say. 



RobERacer said:


> As far as skill level. We have a saying "It isn't rocket science". That laughable part is it is accoustic science which is just as complicated but unlike rocket science we don't have to shoot metal into space in order to perform experiments to gain a better understanding of it. It looks like you have the tools in general assuming the bit ten does parametric eq. Make sure you save your favorite settings but go ahead make some changes and see what they do. The best way I found to zero in on an annoying frequency is at MODERATE monitoring volume (so as not to damage either your hearing or the gear) take a parametric filter set to a wider bandwidth at a center frequency that is in the realm of what you are hearing and "goose it". As you change the bandwidth to a finer setting you will find you loose the annoying tone. What has happened is that the annoying tone is now outside your chosen bandwidth so by adjusting your center frequency find where it is loudest and repeat that process until you have as close to just that frequency you were looking for as possible. Now you can attenuate it back to where it sounds natural. Not how little adjustment it required to make it sound natural. Also I will tell you that over time you get more adept at hearing finer detail and that .25db change becomes very noticeable. It is all just a matter of practice just like baseball really. I should mention this just for anyone who doesn't know but crossover settings are there to stop the wrong part of the spectrum going to the wrong driver. They are in fact finite and actually the correct settings are best determined by assessing the properties of each driver and comparing them directly. It is not something that has anything to do with artistic choice!!!


Too complicated. I just listen and am intuitive enough with the eq to know what to correct and my ears tell me how much is enough. In real world 'any issue' is rarely about adjusting a particular frequency. Correcting an issue is often a 2-3 step process where you will adjust more than just a single frequency.



RobERacer said:


> In fact in some applications those settings are very specific and they are what they are because that is what the entire apparatus is designed around. The short version of all of this is that if your crossover point for you tweeters is 3.15khz, @ 24db/octave no you can't use 1khz with a 12db/octave as a crossover point instead. The speakers aren't designed to work that way. If you are missing part of the spectrum because of the efficiency of your drivers in that range then you really need to look at different driver configurations. A reasonable component set would be relatively even from 100hz to 15khz at the very least. You will not affect any better sonic performance by trying to make drivers operate outside of their designed operating frequency set so just don't do it and save yourself the heartache of the burnt up driver due to your own negligence. I actually heard someone talking about taking a set of Focal KRX2's and crossing them at 1khz. I cringed. Firstly, the tweeter would take on a very harsh tone but the next thing to happen would be the tweeter's death as one turned it up. Naturally once you get it sounding right the first thing we want to do is crank it right. Aramide fibre (kevlar) or not... Ouch!


I give up!!


----------



## Hanatsu

RobERacer said:


> When you say jumps from side to side are you referring to the fact that some midrange frequencies like the 400hz region tend to resonate in cars a lot? I have read what you said a few times to try to understand what you meant and this is all I could come up with. Actually that is a very common frequency group to cause resonations in general because absorbing them is a little more difficult than higher frequencies. That is actually a good example of where a more surgical approach to eq would be more beneficial. If you looked at it on a finer detail spectrum analyser (as an example SIA Smaart) you would notice that the grouping of frequencies affected is very small as is common with a resonance like that. It may only require 1.25db of attenuation to offset it but if you took a slider on a graphic eq because the grouping is so large you may need to attenuate 5 db or so and boost the two adjacent sliders in order to compensate correctly. This works because of the fact that eq does it's adjustments in a curve and that curve actually overlaps with the intended frequency set of the adjacent set. If you could get in and grab a much smaller frequency set you could do you minor alteration thereby offsetting a far smaller section of the spectrum and thereby maintain better linearity. The other thing that a system like Smaart would tell you is that at that frequency (the discussed resonance that is) coherence is at issue because reducing the volume didn't stop the sound from resonating which is actually holding the tone longer that it is supposed to. It is just doing it at a lowered spl as compared to the surrounding frequencies so it seems more natural. Obviously where possible eliminating a resonance like that is key but as I say easier said than done. 400hz likes to resonate.
> As far as skill level. We have a saying "It isn't rocket science". That laughable part is it is accoustic science which is just as complicated but unlike rocket science we don't have to shoot metal into space in order to perform experiments to gain a better understanding of it. It looks like you have the tools in general assuming the bit ten does parametric eq. Make sure you save your favorite settings but go ahead make some changes and see what they do. The best way I found to zero in on an annoying frequency is at MODERATE monitoring volume (so as not to damage either your hearing or the gear) take a parametric filter set to a wider bandwidth at a center frequency that is in the realm of what you are hearing and "goose it". As you change the bandwidth to a finer setting you will find you loose the annoying tone. What has happened is that the annoying tone is now outside your chosen bandwidth so by adjusting your center frequency find where it is loudest and repeat that process until you have as close to just that frequency you were looking for as possible. Now you can attenuate it back to where it sounds natural. Not how little adjustment it required to make it sound natural. Also I will tell you that over time you get more adept at hearing finer detail and that .25db change becomes very noticeable. It is all just a matter of practice just like baseball really. I should mention this just for anyone who doesn't know but crossover settings are there to stop the wrong part of the spectrum going to the wrong driver. They are in fact finite and actually the correct settings are best determined by assessing the properties of each driver and comparing them directly. It is not something that has anything to do with artistic choice!!! In fact in some applications those settings are very specific and they are what they are because that is what the entire apparatus is designed around. The short version of all of this is that if your crossover point for you tweeters is 3.15khz, @ 24db/octave no you can't use 1khz with a 12db/octave as a crossover point instead. The speakers aren't designed to work that way. If you are missing part of the spectrum because of the efficiency of your drivers in that range then you really need to look at different driver configurations. A reasonable component set would be relatively even from 100hz to 15khz at the very least. You will not affect any better sonic performance by trying to make drivers operate outside of their designed operating frequency set so just don't do it and save yourself the heartache of the burnt up driver due to your own negligence. I actually heard someone talking about taking a set of Focal KRX2's and crossing them at 1khz. I cringed. Firstly, the tweeter would take on a very harsh tone but the next thing to happen would be the tweeter's death as one turned it up. Naturally once you get it sounding right the first thing we want to do is crank it right. Aramide fibre (kevlar) or not... Ouch!


... what?


----------



## rton20s

sqnut said:


> First up, thank you for taking the time to write up that mass of text. If you break up that one running thought into different issues/topics, chances are you will use the enter key off and on while typing, thereby making it easier to read.
> 
> I give up!!





Hanatsu said:


> ... what?


I'm glad someone else said it before me. I didn't want Rob to think I was picking on him. I was getting to about the third sentence in his posts and then going cross eyed.


----------



## ou812

Hanatsu said:


> Wish they removed the 20Hz and 20k and replaced them with 63 and 100Hz


Can we get a hell yeah! I fully agree.


----------



## ghionw

ou812 said:


> Can we get a hell yeah! I fully agree.


Where do you have you vifas crossed? I have those tweets and didn't like how they sounded crossed at 2500 like some have suggested.


----------



## sqnut

4 Khz is the sweet spot for the Vifa. 3khz is about the lowest I would run them that too on 24db slopes.


----------



## Hanatsu

sqnut said:


> 4 Khz is the sweet spot for the Vifa. 3khz is about the lowest I would run them that too on 24db slopes.


Yeah pretty much. I have mine crossed at 3700Hz 24dB. These drivers are crazy good above 4kHz.


----------



## ghionw

I think it could do with a little more sparkle up at the very top but maybe I just need to run then on axis instead of in my factor dash location. Running mine with silver flutes.


----------



## sqnut

^^ The silver flutes are a great mid bass mate for the vifa. The flutes really shine when you put them in small pods within the doors


----------



## ghionw

Wish I had space for that. My window missing the magnet of the silver flutes by mere millimeters.


----------



## ou812

ghionw said:


> Where do you have you vifas crossed? I have those tweets and didn't like how they sounded crossed at 2500 like some have suggested.


I moved on from the Vifa's to scan. When I did have them I couldn't go lower than 3k without getting harsh so to speak.


----------



## ghionw

I like mine at 4k and running my silver flute up to 3.15k. I know there is a gap, but my untrained ears can't tell. I guess I will fix it one day when I buy a mic and actually try to tune it myself.


----------



## balane

My DEH-80PRS auto tune packed up my subwoofer and shipped it back to Parts Express.


----------



## sqnut

percy072 said:


> Am I missing something...or will the 80prs in fact not allow for independently setting one mid out of phase with the other??


Not sure if someone answered you. Is everything separated for L & R? If L&R is combined the yes both mids will have the same polarity, i.e. both REV or NOR. Once you separate for L/R drivers then you can set one mid in REV and the other NOR.


----------



## ndisgiidiy

I have a quick question. I am considering this deck for my setup. My setup is a single amp that is 3 channel. One channel for a pair of subs, and the other two channels for my front left/right component speakers. I will have one set of RCA going from deck to amp (I am assuming from the front output on the deck), and then the amp will crossover the signals for high and low. My question is whether or not the Auto EQ will be of any benefit to me at all since I will not be using the built in crossovers in the deck. Thanks for your help!


----------



## rton20s

Check your other thread for responses.


----------



## 1fishman

So i searched this thread for "Error 10" to know avail, any help appreciated.

Bluetooth "error 10" issue. The Bluetooth has progressively gotten worse. It's to the point it only connect to the music part of my phone 10-20% of the time. It connects to the phone 70% of the time. The face-plate shows it connected 99% of the time. 

Takes a long time for it to connect when it ever does. sometime i can hear beeps/cherps as it trys to connect. 

When i repeatedly try to reconnect some times i get a "Error 10" message. 
Any ideas what i should try to fix this?


----------



## Golden Ear

Have you tried updating the Bluetooth software? It might be time for that. You'll need a Bluetooth laptop to do it, iirc.


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Out of curiosity does anyone know if the main harness from this deck is the same as the p99?


----------



## rton20s

Inquiring minds want to know!


----------



## rton20s

A quick check says no.  They aren't identical. 

DEH-80PRS P/N: CDP1484
DEX-P99RS P/N: CDP1209

Checking now to see if the pin out is the same.


----------



## Hanatsu

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Out of curiosity does anyone know if the main harness from this deck is the same as the p99?


I'm 90% certain it will fit. The difference is that p99 don't have speaker cables in the connector.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 using Tapatalk


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Thanks, rton20s is coming over later, we're swapping in my p99 to his system, so we'll check it out and confirm. It'd be much simpler if it is just plug and play.


----------



## Beckerson1

1fishman said:


> So i searched this thread for "Error 10" to know avail, any help appreciated.
> 
> Bluetooth "error 10" issue. The Bluetooth has progressively gotten worse. It's to the point it only connect to the music part of my phone 10-20% of the time. It connects to the phone 70% of the time. The face-plate shows it connected 99% of the time.
> 
> Takes a long time for it to connect when it ever does. sometime i can hear beeps/cherps as it trys to connect.
> 
> When i repeatedly try to reconnect some times i get a "Error 10" message.
> Any ideas what i should try to fix this?


Error 10 for bluetooth is a power failure to the modual. To try a fix turn 5he keys off and then back on and if it still gives you the error it's a issue with the unit. Requires repair

Is it only doing that for BT?


----------



## 1fishman

Golden Ear said:


> Have you tried updating the Bluetooth software? It might be time for that. You'll need a Bluetooth laptop to do it, iirc.


Thanks, ill get im son to help me do that.



Beckerson1 said:


> Error 10 for bluetooth is a power failure to the modual. To try a fix turn 5he keys off and then back on and if it still gives you the error it's a issue with the unit. Requires repair
> 
> Is it only doing that for BT?


the error 10 only happens occasionally, when i'm struggling to make the BT connection. It does go away after cycling the power. 
Ill see if the update helps.


----------



## rton20s

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Thanks, rton20s is coming over later, we're swapping in my p99 to his system, so we'll check it out and confirm. It'd be much simpler if it is just plug and play.


The answer is no. You can't just swap the harness. They are different sizes and the pin out is different. Luckily, I had a spare Toyota harness.


----------



## Hanatsu

Hm.. weird. I used the same harness for a 6 year old standard model as for my p99, thought the Pio connectors were all the same.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 using Tapatalk


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Yep surprised me too. I would think at least the plug would be the same, but I guess it's one more way to "add value" to the p99 parts.


----------



## JVD240

Hey dudes. 

Anyone have a link to info on removal of the piezo hell beeper?


----------



## ///Audience

Has anyone encountered an odd frequency response from this deck when switched to DSP mode but with ALL settings set to off or flat (minus crossover's)? 

Our shop SPL guru is claiming he is seeing a massive and untunable spike in his midbass region (60-80Hz) after switching to this deck (he 'estimates' a 6-9db spike that was not in the signal before this deck). I have not had a chance to look over his settings but he has tried factory reset and disabled all EQ and TA. He is switching from an older high quality pioneer into the 80PRS and all other things in the system remain unchanged. He also claims a loss of SPL around 30Hz (3db loss). 

He was able to corroborate this with other SPL competitors he knows who claim to have experience the exact same issue with the only solution being to run the 80PRS in standard mode and not use the DSP. 

To me, this seems like a serious engineering flaw in the system if it delivers an adulterated frequency response with all tone controls disabled so my assumption is that there is some issue he has not found in his settings or tuning.


----------



## Jepalan

///Audience said:


> Has anyone encountered an odd frequency response from this deck when switched to DSP mode but with ALL settings set to off or flat (minus crossover's)?
> 
> Our shop SPL guru is claiming he is seeing a massive and untunable spike in his midbass region (60-80Hz) after switching to this deck (he 'estimates' a 6-9db spike that was not in the signal before this deck). I have not had a chance to look over his settings but he has tried factory reset and disabled all EQ and TA. He is switching from an older high quality pioneer into the 80PRS and all other things in the system remain unchanged. He also claims a loss of SPL around 30Hz (3db loss).
> 
> He was able to corroborate this with other SPL competitors he knows who claim to have experience the exact same issue with the only solution being to run the 80PRS in standard mode and not use the DSP.
> 
> To me, this seems like a serious engineering flaw in the system if it delivers an adulterated frequency response with all tone controls disabled so my assumption is that there is some issue he has not found in his settings or tuning.


Your post isn't making sense to me. The 80PRS has two settings for its DSP Mode. They are Standard (STD) mode or a Network (NW) mode. 
Which mode is the shop claiming there is a problem with? STD or NW?
Can you post RTA sweeps showing the problem?
Also, what source is being used when testing?


----------



## Bayboy

Jepalan said:


> Your post isn't making sense to me. The 80PRS has two settings for its DSP Mode. They are Standard (STD) mode or a Network (NW) mode.
> Which mode is the shop claiming there is a problem with? STD or NW?
> Can you post RTA sweeps showing the problem?
> Also, what source is being used when testing?




It's clear to me he is stating in network mode.

Haven't had that issue. Could be a error of some sort. Send it back I suppose... they're great decks for the money.


----------



## ///Audience

2 minutes after hopping in his car, it became obvious that he still had auto EQ on which was causing the issue. Problem fixed.


----------



## Rs roms

///Audience said:


> 2 minutes after hopping in his car, it became obvious that he still had auto EQ on which was causing the issue. Problem fixed.


LOL shop SPL Guru :laugh:


----------



## ///Audience

Rs roms said:


> LOL shop SPL Guru :laugh:


Yeah, major face palm moment. He told me his first step was doing a hard reset so I didn't figure auto EQ would be the issue or I never would have spent the time to post on here. The


----------



## rton20s

Glad you got it worked out. As I was just reading through your first post on the issue, I kept thinking that it sounded like he had run AutoEQ. That, or as Bayboy posited, there was a problem with the HU and it would need to be sent in for evaluation/repair.


----------



## JVD240

JVD240 said:


> Hey dudes.
> 
> Anyone have a link to info on removal of the piezo hell beeper?


Any buddies?

I know I've seen it before but none of the search terms I've used return what I'm looking for.


----------



## rton20s

JVD240 said:


> Any buddies?
> 
> I know I've seen it before but none of the search terms I've used return what I'm looking for.


You mean this post? 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2038120-post2332.html

With the very first reply being from some guy calling himself JVD240? 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2038133-post2333.html


----------



## JVD240

Well then...

This is a little embarrassing. :blush:

Thanks man!

Funny enough I just looked up the service manual online and found the piezo in the schematic.


----------



## rton20s

Post up a DIY, or even a video when you get it done.


----------



## JVD240

rton20s said:


> Post up a DIY, or even a video when you get it done.


Will do! Picking one up soon to replace the CZ702 in the lady's Mini. I can't stand not being able to adjust individual driver levels.


----------



## rayray881

Question! Has anybody connected an Android phone to one of the usb inputs on the back of the unit? Would Spotify work this way using the phone as a digital output? Would this bypass the phone's internal dac?


----------



## Hanatsu

USB is digital. Nothing analogue is involved. IF it works, then the phone's DAC will be bypassed.


----------



## rayray881

I understand that, but does it work, lol


----------



## Hanatsu

I can try tomorrow, skeptical that it works.


----------



## Beckerson1

It doesnt. I tried. Juse use BT


----------



## rayray881

Thanks Hanatsu! I was using bluetooth but the sound quality isnt good at all. My phone has aptx and I tried a separate bluetooth receiver with aptx. Sound quality was much improved but it cuts out for half a second every minute, not acceptable and its going back! If the usb to deck dont work then I will go with a small usb dac and deal with having an exposed wire to the phone.


----------



## WinWiz

rayray881 said:


> Thanks Hanatsu! I was using bluetooth but the sound quality isnt good at all. My phone has aptx and I tried a separate bluetooth receiver with aptx. Sound quality was much improved but it cuts out for half a second every minute, not acceptable and its going back! If the usb to deck dont work then I will go with a small usb dac and deal with having an exposed wire to the phone.


2 days ago cyanogenmod merged USB Mass Storage mode in their nightly builds. I haven't updated my phone yet but I'm guessing it would make the phone behave just like a usb connected hard drive, so Im crossing my fingers this will make audio from android to the 80prs through usb possible...


----------



## Hanatsu

rayray881 said:


> Thanks Hanatsu! I was using bluetooth but the sound quality isnt good at all. My phone has aptx and I tried a separate bluetooth receiver with aptx. Sound quality was much improved but it cuts out for half a second every minute, not acceptable and its going back! If the usb to deck dont work then I will go with a small usb dac and deal with having an exposed wire to the phone.


It reads my SD card on the phone like a USB stick. So it "kinda" works. It was quite slow though.


----------



## moparman1

The 80 and an MS-8 overkill? 
I actually ordered the 80prs a couple of days ago with the plan of running a pair of ctx4 in the dash from 300 up and a pair of spr69 in the doors from 100-300 approx. Then after realizing the crossover points on this deck don't really play well with my plan, (I know a few ways to make it work but it's not optimal) I chose to send the prs back and get the ms-8 instead. More processing power and channels.

So i ordered the ms-8 but when i looked into sending the hu back, the shipping is almost as much as the deck. So my options are to install both, install the ms-8 with my cde149bt and sell the prs nib or i can sell both hu and use one of the various other hu i have. (A couple of jvc, a couple of low end pioneer, a Panasonic..)
What would you do? I think keeping both would be optimal as the prs would likely have the cleanest signal of them all but may just be overkill for my needs. (Great sounding daily driver. Not competing).
Thoughts?


----------



## moparman1

Btw, the plan now with the ms-8 is to run 3 JBL GTO328 on the dash, (f, c, r) and use the ctx4 i have for rear sides. And still use 6x9s, the alpines or some other as midbass in front doors.


----------



## fcarpio

So I am new to the DEH80PRS club and so far I am liking it very much. I haven't had the change to do a proper tune on it yet, only the auto tune. But so far I think I am going to be able to get very good sound out of it. I do not like the menu navigation too much but it is understandable as you can only have so menu knobs and buttons on the face plate. It would have been nice to be able to hook this up to a computer to access all the tuning functions from a full blown graphical interface.

I come from last year's Pioneer top of the line double din (something 8500) and a Mosconi 6to8, no regrets and have money left over.


----------



## Babs

Yeah the menu is a bit "wonky" but once you spend some time with it, it gets better. 
Does make one wish Alpine had built it with the PRS's internal guts, but Alpine's face and TuneIt interface.


----------



## larrysing

Question, Oh Car Stereo Gurus:

I got my DEH-80 installed, and now I have "the fever" and want to get an entire system. My goal is "clarity and lack of distortion" in the up-to-50 volume range.

My goal is amplified 5.25 component in front, 6.5 in back seat, and one 10" sub in the hatch area (2002 Acura RSX.)

Debate is:
1. One 5-channel amp to run it all.
2. A 4-channel amp plus one mono sub amp.
3. Take advantage of the "3-way digital network" option provided by the 80prs and use dual 2-channel amps for mid and high and a single mono amp for the sub.

Budget can work with either setup.

What is recommended, and WHY?

Thanks in advance for all the dozens of responses I know I will get tonight !!


----------



## robtr8

larrysing said:


> Question, Oh Car Stereo Gurus:
> 
> I got my DEH-80 installed, and now I have "the fever" and want to get an entire system. My goal is "clarity and lack of distortion" in the up-to-50 volume range.
> 
> My goal is amplified 5.25 component in front, 6.5 in back seat, and one 10" sub in the hatch area (2002 Acura RSX.)
> 
> Debate is:
> 1. One 5-channel amp to run it all.
> 2. A 4-channel amp plus one mono sub amp.
> 3. Take advantage of the "3-way digital network" option provided by the 80prs and use dual 2-channel amps for mid and high and a single mono amp for the sub.
> 
> Budget can work with either setup.
> 
> What is recommended, and WHY?
> 
> Thanks in advance for all the dozens of responses I know I will get tonight !!


I ran my initial build with two PRS-D800's and a PDX-M600. One of the D800's became unhappy so I swapped them out for an F4. Can't say there's a difference.


----------



## mayae

frankmehta said:


> It's out! The head unit (at least) I was waiting for.
> $420 MSRP (destined to be pegged somewhere around CDA-117 money when it's out for sale)
> 28-Bit Binary Floating-Point DSP and 3-Way Digital Network (WITHOUT a processor)
> 5V preouts
> Burr-Brown 24-bit D/A Converters
> Bluetooth, iPod direct,
> L/R Independent 16-Band Digital Equalizer
> Time Alignment
> Pandora
> Wired Remote Input
> SD/SDHC Memory Card Slot
> Full Dot LCD Display (192 x 48 pixels, 3-line)
> 
> 
> FULLY LOADED. AND HOW!!?!!?!
> 
> I am very excited about this unit. What say guys?


Just read the specs on this, all I can say is NICE.


----------



## Golfer

I changed out my deh-8700 for this thing and I might be overlooking something but I need an iPhone to do Pandora? Even the cheapie 8700 did Android Pandora. I hope I'm either misreading the manual or there is an update in the future...


----------



## 2010hummerguy

Golfer said:


> I changed out my deh-8700 for this thing and I might be overlooking something but I need an iPhone to do Pandora? Even the cheapie 8700 did Android Pandora. I hope I'm either misreading the manual or there is an update in the future...


It's a budget SQ deck going on 4 years old, app support wasn't great back then and Pioneer needed to keep costs low in order to make a budget SQ HU that would street price at ~$300. It is not likely that a firmware or software update will add apps either or expanded phone support, unfortunately.

FYI Pioneer actually stuffed most of the 80PRS sound control features into a ton of DD screen HUs starting last year, pretty cool that a manufacturer would put 3-way active and decent EQ/TA into an HU that normally gets zero SQ considerations. So if you can fit a DD unit and need better app/phone support, one of those may be better for you.


----------



## Babs

Riddle me this guys. Any way to access the main menu via remote without having to tap the volume knob? Just curious. It's not a biggie but kinda annoying. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## lurch

NOPE. 
if there IS a way, lemme know


----------



## rscecil007

Folks, quick question. I'm thinking about getting one of these to replace my older PRS800, mainly for the iPod option. My wife has a 160 iPod classic she's not using, and since I could rip all my music lossless and let the headunit's DAC's do the work (per the instructions Pioneer suggested posted earlier in this thread), so having my entire collection at my fingertips in cd quality is pretty appealing.

I'll admit I've not ever had an Apple product. So if I ripped everything lossless, about how many songs can I put on a 160gb Ipod?

Thanks!


----------



## Babs

rscecil007 said:


> Folks, quick question. I'm thinking about getting one of these to replace my older PRS800, mainly for the iPod option. My wife has a 160 iPod classic she's not using, and since I could rip all my music lossless and let the headunit's DAC's do the work (per the instructions Pioneer suggested posted earlier in this thread), so having my entire collection at my fingertips in cd quality is pretty appealing.
> 
> I'll admit I've not ever had an Apple product. So if I ripped everything lossless, about how many songs can I put on a 160gb Ipod?
> 
> Thanks!


I put the majority of my library on a classic 160 when I had it. Now I just do a rotation of sorts on the iPhone 6, picking and choosing the rotation for the week. Works great.

On that, I've got an Alpine 149BT for sale that'll play iPods just lovely.


----------



## annoyingrob

rscecil007 said:


> Folks, quick question. I'm thinking about getting one of these to replace my older PRS800, mainly for the iPod option. My wife has a 160 iPod classic she's not using, and since I could rip all my music lossless and let the headunit's DAC's do the work (per the instructions Pioneer suggested posted earlier in this thread), so having my entire collection at my fingertips in cd quality is pretty appealing.
> 
> I'll admit I've not ever had an Apple product. So if I ripped everything lossless, about how many songs can I put on a 160gb Ipod?
> 
> Thanks!


If all you want is a head unit to do lossless, why not the Pioneer DEH-X8700BS so you can play lossless (FLAC, WAV) off of a USB. Or are you also interested in the network mode and T/A?


----------



## ghionw

I think it converts an average length song into about a 30-40mb file.


----------



## rscecil007

annoyingrob said:


> If all you want is a head unit to do lossless, why not the Pioneer DEH-X8700BS so you can play lossless (FLAC, WAV) off of a USB. Or are you also interested in the network mode and T/A?


Exactly, I should have said that. I also want it for the EQ, T/A, and so I can run active off it.


----------



## SQLnovice

The 80prs can be had for around $200-$210 from jet.


----------



## dsteinschneider

I just bought a second DEH-80PRS so I've been flipping through threads about it just to see what people have been saying since I bought the first one in 2012. I would like to hear one setup with great components and tuned by an expert. 

In my case I just connected it plug and play into an existing Passat Monsoon "Premium" amp/speaker setup. I then put the setup mic where my head is and let it do its thing. At first I fiddled with bigger and bigger USB drives full of 320 mp3's but found the navigation lacking. I then bought a Samsung Note 2 and connected it by bluetooth to stream Google Play Music All Access. I installed an audio driver on the phone called Vipre4Android. I find the bluetooth source sounds fine on 80PRS, especially if you download the albums which I do when I find one that warrants repeat listening. The sound is very even - much like the Tannoy studio monitors I use for mixing. I love the soundstage. Perhaps if I had higher quality speakers and amps I would hear more difference between the mp3's and bluetooth. I'd still take the bluetooth streaming, it's awesome to be to pull up almost any music ever made.


----------



## greg_b

Running my prs-80 active to an eclipse xa4000, using the JBL p660c 6.5's. Mid in the stock hole, highs in the sail panel.

I set the xover point at 80hz low/mid low, and mid/high crosses at 3k.

Re-ran autotune, and it changed the points a bit. I came in afterward and increased the low/mod slope to 24db, as I liked the sound a little better...

trying to get the bottom end to sound a bit less "muddy" if that makes sense, I feel I'm lacking definition down there..

listening position- left position puts the stage behind me, right position widens things up and pushes the stage forward... 

There was a post a long time ago about dialing the system in by using test tones and making changes until the speaker location 'dissappears' does anybody have a handy pointer to that?

Also- alt whine. Stupid pico fuse! grounding the RCA's at the amplifier didn't help, guess I'll have to do it at the HU as well, and might as well dig into the unit when I have it apart..

PRS-80 is confirmed to use pico, right?

Greg


----------



## gregerst22

Has anybody successfully relocated the 80PRS face plate? Because of the lack of space I'm kicking around the idea of extending the faceplate to my dash / center console while having the actual receiver mounted in the glove box or somewhere else out of the way.


----------



## haberdashing

dsteinschneider said:


> I just bought a second DEH-80PRS so I've been flipping through threads about it just to see what people have been saying since I bought the first one in 2012. I would like to hear one setup with great components and tuned by an expert.
> 
> In my case I just connected it plug and play into an existing Passat Monsoon "Premium" amp/speaker setup. I then put the setup mic where my head is and let it do its thing. At first I fiddled with bigger and bigger USB drives full of 320 mp3's but found the navigation lacking. I then bought a Samsung Note 2 and connected it by bluetooth to stream Google Play Music All Access. I installed an audio driver on the phone called Vipre4Android. I find the bluetooth source sounds fine on 80PRS, especially if you download the albums which I do when I find one that warrants repeat listening. The sound is very even - much like the Tannoy studio monitors I use for mixing. I love the soundstage. Perhaps if I had higher quality speakers and amps I would hear more difference between the mp3's and bluetooth. I'd still take the bluetooth streaming, it's awesome to be to pull up almost any music ever made.


I just ordered a 80prs to install to my generic monsoon mk4 gti system. Which settings did you use? There is like switch on the back with hi/mid/low, or something else idk?


----------



## gumbeelee

haberdashing said:


> I just ordered a 80prs to install to my generic monsoon mk4 gti system. Which settings did you use? There is like switch on the back with hi/mid/low, or something else idk?



I believe u r talking about the network settings on the 80prs. If u r running the 80prs in network mode/active, u will use your rca preouts as high/mid/low for the tweets, midbass, and sub. If u running the 80prs in normal mode, i believe thats what it is called, the rca preouts will be front/rear/sub. It all depends if u r running the 80prs in network or normal mode. I believe there is a switch on the 80prs that u have to set to either network or normal, but i cant remember for sure its been a while since i ran that deck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eldondo

the high and low switch is for aux,so you can run rca low or speaker high


----------



## rton20s

eldondo said:


> the high and low switch is for aux,so you can run rca low or speaker high


Correct. Well, not for aux, actually. For the RCA inputs on the rear of the head unit. Aux on the DEH-80PRS is the 1/8"/3.5mm input on the right side of the face of the head unit.


----------



## S2G-Unit

I'm using a 2013 Nexus 7 with hifimediy USB DAC & Lossless files, CDT speakers & kicker amp:


If I connect this DAC to the 80PRS using AUX input, let's say 3.5mm to RCA cable. 

Shouldn't the sound quality be pretty good considering the USB is not using my tablet's headphone/internal DAC?
________________
ok, lets say USB DAC>3.5mm to RCA>80prs rear auxilary input>amp Would I still be able to use the volume control for AUX input & how would this sound?


How about if we compare USB DAC>3.5mm to spdif>minidsp or similar DSP with optical input>amp?


----------



## eldondo

i do believe theres two aux on the prs80 there one on the back that uses rca and in the menu it says aux1 and aux2


----------



## rton20s

eldondo said:


> i do believe theres two aux on the prs80 there one on the back that uses rca and in the menu it says aux1 and aux2


Actually, you are correct. Pioneer refers to the rear RCAs as AUX2. This is the input that uses the high/low switch. AUX1 is the front 3.5mm input. The rear 3.5mm input is of the mic.


----------



## Rydsen

So my Android phone updated to 6.0 Marshmallow last week and the BT control stopped working. I could still stream music to my 80PRS and make and receive hands free calls but that was it. The steering wheel control no longer skipped tracks over BT. So I decided to finally update the BT firmware on the H/U despite holding out for over 2.5 years. Well, something went wrong during the BT transfer/update process (worst update process ever designed) and now I have the dreaded error-10 and no BT capability at all. I've search both this thread and elsewhere online and all I can gather is the BT module inside the H/U is bad now and has to be physically replaced. I called Pioneer and they said I had to send it to the nearest service center and pay for it to be "fixed". I'm pretty frickin' livid about this. I followed their steps and did exactly as it said and now it's my fault somehow. Has anyone been able to revert back somehow, fix it on their own, or have any other solutions? I called the closest service center which is literally 2 states away and it's going to be about $140 for just the chip not including labor and shipping. I might as well just buy a brand new one for ~$240 with a new warranty. But before I do that, I thought I'd check here to see if anyone may have any other ideas first.


----------



## rekd0514

Rydsen said:


> So my Android phone updated to 6.0 Marshmallow last week and the BT control stopped working. I could still stream music to my 80PRS and make and receive hands free calls but that was it. The steering wheel control no longer skipped tracks over BT. So I decided to finally update the BT firmware on the H/U despite holding out for over 2.5 years. Well, something went wrong during the BT transfer/update process (worst update process ever designed) and now I have the dreaded error-10 and no BT capability at all. I've search both this thread and elsewhere online and all I can gather is the BT module inside the H/U is bad now and has to be physically replaced. I called Pioneer and they said I had to send it to the nearest service center and pay for it to be "fixed". I'm pretty frickin' livid about this. I followed their steps and did exactly as it said and now it's my fault somehow. Has anyone been able to revert back somehow, fix it on their own, or have any other solutions? I called the closest service center which is literally 2 states away and it's going to be about $140 for just the chip not including labor and shipping. I might as well just buy a brand new one for ~$240 with a new warranty. But before I do that, I thought I'd check here to see if anyone may have any other ideas first.


I have a Nexus 5x with Marshmallow and I don't recall any issues with mine. 

The update on their site indicates it is only needed for IOS users.


----------



## lynchknot

Has it been mentioned about the sluggish volume control? It requires an incredible amount turns to get a small response in volume. Maybe it's just mine.


----------



## ghionw

The faster you try to go, the worst it is.


----------



## Golden Ear

Yea that drove me nuts about the 80prs when I ran one. All the voltage is at the end of the dial. I wish they made it like all the other pios that get loud in the 20s


----------



## rton20s

lynchknot said:


> Has it been mentioned about the sluggish volume control? It requires an incredible amount turns to get a small response in volume. Maybe it's just mine.





ghionw said:


> The faster you try to go, the worst it is.





Golden Ear said:


> Yea that drove me nuts about the 80prs when I ran one. All the voltage is at the end of the dial. I wish they made it like all the other pios that get loud in the 20s


----------



## sbeezy

I like that I have to go to 100% to get full voltage/volume, that way I know my deck isn't clipping when setting the gains on an amplifier! I love that about the 80PRS, she's about to be evicted by Clarion's NX706 though.


----------



## sbeezy

Rydsen said:


> So my Android phone updated to 6.0 Marshmallow last week and the BT control stopped working. I could still stream music to my 80PRS and make and receive hands free calls but that was it. The steering wheel control no longer skipped tracks over BT. So I decided to finally update the BT firmware on the H/U despite holding out for over 2.5 years. Well, something went wrong during the BT transfer/update process (worst update process ever designed) and now I have the dreaded error-10 and no BT capability at all. I've search both this thread and elsewhere online and all I can gather is the BT module inside the H/U is bad now and has to be physically replaced. I called Pioneer and they said I had to send it to the nearest service center and pay for it to be "fixed". I'm pretty frickin' livid about this. I followed their steps and did exactly as it said and now it's my fault somehow. Has anyone been able to revert back somehow, fix it on their own, or have any other solutions? I called the closest service center which is literally 2 states away and it's going to be about $140 for just the chip not including labor and shipping. I might as well just buy a brand new one for ~$240 with a new warranty. But before I do that, I thought I'd check here to see if anyone may have any other ideas first.


Mine gave me error10 also I reset the unit with the button and reflashed it and it works perfectly


----------



## lynchknot

sbeezy said:


> I like that I have to go to 100% to get full voltage/volume, that way


Should it be necessary to have to turn the volume knob so many times to get there?


----------



## sbeezy

lynchknot said:


> Should it be necessary to have to turn the volume knob so many times to get there?



Not really, but I use my remote(CD-R510) so no turning the knob for me.


Sent from my iPhone(Maci) using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

lynchknot said:


> Should it be necessary to have to turn the volume knob so many times to get there?


Take your time with the knob...



rton20s said:


>


----------



## lynchknot

rton20s said:


> Take your time with the knob...slow is smooth, smooth is fast


hehe well, it's not like i'm getting reckless with the knob and may overshoot my desired level and have to readjust or start over.


----------



## sbeezy

lynchknot said:


> Should it be necessary to have to turn the volume knob so many times to get there?



I think we can put the blame on the alps pot that makes up the volume control 


Sent from my iPhone(Maci) using Tapatalk


----------



## rscecil007

Folks,

I about to order this and upgrade from my older PRS-800 so I can load up my old Ipod classic with all my music (using uncompressed WAV or AIFF, or ALAC per Pioneer) and just keep in the truck.

I was also going to get the Pioneer CD-IU51 cable for the Ipod (although can I use the actual Ipod cable for this?) Be good if whatever I used was a it longer in length...

I also thought about a USB "extender" wire to run from the back of the unit to the glove box or whatever, just so I wouldn't ever have to pull the unit out of the dash later on for any reason. Something like this: Amazon.com: PAC USBCBL 6-Feet USB Cable with Mounting Bracket: Car Electronics

Is there anything else anyone would suggest I order? Thanks for the help!


----------



## sbeezy

I just use cheapo extension cables and they work fine haven't had to replace one yet


Sent from my iPhone(Maci) using Tapatalk


----------



## ghionw

I think I used one from monoprice that was relatively cheap. I use it to connect to my factory usb port in my center console. Shouldn't need more than that.


----------



## dsteinschneider

haberdashing said:


> I just ordered a 80prs to install to my generic monsoon mk4 gti system. Which settings did you use? There is like switch on the back with hi/mid/low, or something else idk?


Hi Haberdashing,

Really apologize, didn't see your post back in Feb. When setting up in a Passat you don't choose network on the DEH-80PRS - that's the setting for when you are sending pre-amp mid/low/hi out to separate amps. I know it seems weird to send speaker outs to the Monsoon amp but that's the way the Monsoon works. I guess it deals with the signal levels in some way that in the end works quite well. The Monsoon amp and speakers actually sound pretty good once the DEH-80PRS is the source.


----------



## joeydfish

Hi all, does this HU support FLAC yet?


----------



## rton20s

joeydfish said:


> Hi all, does this HU support FLAC yet?


No. And it probably never will.


----------



## lynchknot

Is anyone else experiencing an occasional "pop" in the speakers when using the buttons?


----------



## rton20s

lynchknot said:


> Is anyone else experiencing an occasional "pop" in the speakers when using the buttons?


Nothing like this on mine.


----------



## djoten

Hello Folks, I just bought 80prs 2 days ago. I'm still not sure is it the right deal for me and have an option to send it back to amazon, if I'm not happy. So, my case is that: have a Megane 2 - update list HU. Changed the front speakers with these: Pioneer TS-Q131C - which should be the easiest way to change the original ones. Didn't got the expected improvement over and choose to change the HU. Then I saw 80prs and the whole these positive feedbacks. Never had high end HU and the needed skills to go for active with that unit. I read this is the main advantage over the rest. So, are Pioneer TS-Q131C good for that, am I needing to change the whole wires, is there a chance to have front and back speakers + active underseat subwoofer like Kenwood KSC-SW11 using only the HU's outputs. I would like to be clear, that the underseat sub is the only way for me and that small car. I'm reading now the whole pages history back for answers, but need a faster response, can I get to the max as possible with that HU and these components: Pioneer TS-Q131C for front speakers, the OEM speakers for back and underseat sub without amplifier? Huge thanks in advance and Rest Regards.


----------



## rton20s

The 80PRS certainly has the capability to maximize the performance of your equipment selection more than any other head unit in the price range. Whether or not you have the skills to do so or if the equipment selection is the best for your car/budget are different questions entirely. It may be worth trying the autotune feature and see if that is to your liking.


----------



## djoten

Thanks for your advice. I really don't want to place amps and to deal with extra cables. Any ideas how to connect Pioneer TS-WX110A / PIONEER TS-WX120A if I just stay passive?


----------



## rton20s

djoten said:


> Thanks for your advice. I really don't want to place amps and to deal with extra cables. Any ideas how to connect Pioneer TS-WX110A / PIONEER TS-WX120A if I just stay passive?


I believe all you would need is to run a set of RCAs from the Sub/Low output of the DEH-80PRS to whichever of the Pioneer subwoofers you choose.


----------



## rob feature

Any of you 80PRS owners know if I can run a sort-of 4-way active setup? I'd like to do stereo midranges on 2 channels, stereo tweeters on 2 channels, midbass on 1 channel and sub on 1 channel. I know it has 6 channels, but don't know if they're fully independent. Does the PRS allow that sort of thing?


----------



## sbeezy

No. The pre outs are only frs, or hml in network mode. For a true 4way setup with a 80prs the only options you have are to run the outputs to an outboard processing device. Or pick up the info I gathered on adding an optical output to the 80prs and send that to a processing device.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rob feature

Cheers! sbeezy :beerchug:


----------



## Babs

rob feature said:


> Any of you 80PRS owners know if I can run a sort-of 4-way active setup? I'd like to do stereo midranges on 2 channels, stereo tweeters on 2 channels, midbass on 1 channel and sub on 1 channel. I know it has 6 channels, but don't know if they're fully independent. Does the PRS allow that sort of thing?



What you could do is just add on a minidsp 4-Channel for $200 for the HD version or just over $100 for the regular version. Would work great.


----------



## rob feature

Babs said:


> What you could do is just add on a minidsp 4-Channel for $200 for the HD version or just over $100 for the regular version. Would work great.


Well there's an option. I was hoping to avoid adding more hardware though & may abandon the 4-way idea altogether for the sake of simplicity. And since I wouldn't have that easy option it just became less likely. I still think I'm going to install an 80PRS soon unless I find a good reason not to.


----------



## sbeezy

It's wonderful as you can tune it to be with the right speakers and vehicle treatments in network mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jonah1810

Hey i was wondering if anybody has tested the head unit's internal amp. I know i saw a video where a guy tested thd with the amp off, and also tested the voltage of the preouts (at 62 volume it put out 4.8v, at 0.05% thd if i recall) 

but i was more so wondering at what volume the internal amp clips, and how many "clean" watts it can actually put out. (as i have my tweeters powered by this unit) has anybody tested it for these things?


----------



## KrautNotRice

jonah1810 said:


> Hey i was wondering if anybody has tested the head unit's internal amp. I know i saw a video where a guy tested thd with the amp off, and also tested the voltage of the preouts (at 62 volume it put out 4.8v, at 0.05% thd if i recall)
> 
> but i was more so wondering at what volume the internal amp clips, and how many "clean" watts it can actually put out. (as i have my tweeters powered by this unit) has anybody tested it for these things?


Hi,
I haven't measured it myself, but on Sonicelectronix.com it's listed at 14w x 4 and it's CEA-2006 compliant, meaning the output wattage isn't hyped up. Hope that helps!
Pioneer DEH-80PRS Audiophile CD/MP3/USB Car Stereo w/ Bluetooth


----------



## Alrojoca

Does anybody know if the vol knob's plastic is painted black or if it's solid black plastic?

I was hopping to put some aluminum tape on part of it, not sure if once removed either the black paint or the silver ring around it will peel off the paint


----------



## Alrojoca

Does anyone know or remember what the default setting for the sound retrieval setting is? Off 1 or 2? 
I keep find extra sound effects setting gimmicks ASL, sound retrieval, loudness more features more things to play and learn. :book:


----------



## lurch

it is set to OFF originally. 
i keep it off, experimented with it for a long time but found that it made things
sound unnatural, too bright in a weird way, too honky in others, depended on the
recording a LOT. 
and the loudness.... i love the loudness setting on this deck, just love it. 
if the amp gains are set correctly the loudness is just awesome.


----------



## bassfreak85

Havent been impressed with lioneer in 15 years


----------



## Vx220

Just finished my install (Inc. DEH80PRS) yesterday, really pleased with it.


----------



## Alrojoca

I agree, the ASL has a drastic impact, it is harsh. 

ASL, ATT, SLA, 

It also has the ATT feature, digital attenuation, it appears to only affect cd playback, just increasing the volume.

That's in the menu that works when the HU is off, clock setting etc.

No clue why so many sound enhancements features when just loudness could simplify everything, more confusion I guess.

And don't forget this thing has the auto sound leveling also to make it even more complex. Meaning that we all could be happy with just the loudness and SLA and none of the other sound enhancements features since most real SQ guys, will not use them.


Not sure if the menu or dials are so sensitive, but yesterday I went nuts trying to figure out why the folder skip did not work for the USB and only played the same file artist over and over, went through folder reapeat track, repeat all, and it just showed either 2 options instead of 3 or one I saw before was not showing.
Finally, again not sure if it's a glitch, it finally showed the reapeat folder option, that honestly I never intended to turn on, somehow I did, due to the dial and pushing combo and finally after I found it I fixed it. 

It seems that some settings are hidden or we miss them and accidentally turn them on unintentionally.
Bottom line the menu is sensitive complex, can't rush it, need to take our time and keep our eyes open, and if possible double check everything (sometimes double checking, things mistakenly or mysteriously turn on) and this has happened with the output levels and xpoints, so press return return return button to the home position when done, otherwise when I turn up the volume on my steering wheel buttons the settings in the menu also change, if l do not go back/return to the home position.

I appreciate that if the power is removed from the battery, it keeps all audio settings even the EQ settings, (Alpine wipes EQ settings) and just need to save the clock and radio stations after. 

I turned internal amp off, but after disconnecting the battery or perhaps another unintentional accident it was turned on and I noticed it a month ago and turned that off also. And no resets ever done ( two by the way, the ball point pen, and the one in the HU off audio settings) 

Quite a learning curve, but it does not hurt to spend half hour double checking everything related to sound enhancements after disconnecting the battery.

I'm happy with it, just taking time to get the most from it, maybe a stand alone DSP will be less complex dealing strictly with standard audio language.

And you have to wonder how many systems were tuned with some of these enhancements on, or had some SQ issues not knowing some of the features were on, and a DSP added to it, , that would mean double settings and tuning all over again. :laugh:


----------



## lurch

i KNOW why the folder search on the USB screwed up on you, same thing happened
to me, it has to do with the folder search option in the " press volume while off " menu. 

one of my usb drives is a total mixed bag and the unit would get stuck if it was in
the " usb find title artist genre " mode ( and for the life of me i cannot remember
what pioneer calls it. ). 
anyways.... whenever i use that particular usb i have to make sure that it is turned
OFF. otherwise it gets stuck and i cant back out of the search. 

and yes, going through all the settings can make ones head spin, great unit but
the menu in my opinion sucks pooh.


----------



## Alrojoca

Yes thanks, I hope it does not happen again, yesuwas the second time.


----------



## lurch

removed my pioneer to re-install the 117 about a week ago. 
i had finally gotten my hands on an h800 + rux so i figured the aie-net would really
shine with the processor. 
played with eq etc. for all that time but it just sounded " blaah "
the usb " banking " time was very annoying, and the 117 didn't see all the files. 
and it seemed noisey, muted, strained. the CD player would sometimes just quit too !
no matter what i tried i kept thinking " the pioneer sounded better than this ". 

so today i removed the alpine and re-installed the prs80 then hooked it up to the h800. 

HOLY ****. 
now THIS is music !
the pioneer KILLS the alpine. 
i have twice the volume now and it is as clear as a mountain stream. 
the subwoofer now sounds amazing. 
i will miss the alpine's display, but i certainly will not miss the noisey, clunky, muted sound and bad usb management. 

sorry alpine, you have been trounced ....


----------



## jhue73

lurch said:


> removed my pioneer to re-install the 117 about a week ago.
> i had finally gotten my hands on an h800 + rux so i figured the aie-net would really
> shine with the processor.
> played with eq etc. for all that time but it just sounded " blaah "
> the usb " banking " time was very annoying, and the 117 didn't see all the files.
> and it seemed noisey, muted, strained. the CD player would sometimes just quit too !
> no matter what i tried i kept thinking " the pioneer sounded better than this ".
> 
> so today i removed the alpine and re-installed the prs80 then hooked it up to the h800.
> 
> HOLY ****.
> now THIS is music !
> the pioneer KILLS the alpine.
> i have twice the volume now and it is as clear as a mountain stream.
> the subwoofer now sounds amazing.
> i will miss the alpine's display, but i certainly will not miss the noisey, clunky, muted sound and bad usb management.
> 
> sorry alpine, you have been trounced ....


i had an alpine 153bt before the 80prs and the pioneer isnt a big difference. and neither unit can compete with the alpine cd unit i had back in the 90s that also had burr-brown chips, that run to alpine amps. that system sounded great even with pioneer coaxials and sealed punch 12.


----------



## bhk1004

haha i cant believe I read througth entirety of this thread... just installed an 80prs last night. I am pretty new to this, and currently just running in standard mode, and may change this in the future. havent decided if having the flexibility would actually be a good thing for me haha. 

Anyways a quick question. Does anyone have an issue with the Display turning completely off constantly? The headunit works fine, doesnt stop playing music or anything, but just turns display off after about 5-10 seconds. I want it basically permanently on while the car is on. I called pioneer and they have no idea, told me to reset the unit and if it doesnt fix it then send it in for warranty. They think some setting deeper is incorrectly setup. 

Anywho appreciate any help. 

Also... still racking my brain on if I want to go active. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole and read all the information on how to properly set it up. Anywho we shall see.


----------



## OneGun

I'm running this in my every day driver. Got it a few months ago, never had that issue. 

Currently running mine passive with 6.5" components up front w/rear 10" sub. 

I installed my components/crossovers/wiring in a manner that will make the transition to active very easy and, if that doesn't work out, going back to passive easy too. 

Maybe you can find something in the manual about this issue. Display off is sometimes a thing in some settings. 

View attachment Pioneer DEH-80PRS Manual.pdf


----------



## bhk1004

OneGun said:


> I'm running this in my every day driver. Got it a few months ago, never had that issue.
> 
> Currently running mine passive with 6.5" components up front w/rear 10" sub.
> 
> I installed my components/crossovers/wiring in a manner that will make the transition to active very easy and, if that doesn't work out, going back to passive easy too.
> 
> Maybe you can find something in the manual about this issue. Display off is sometimes a thing in some settings.
> 
> View attachment 229469


Thanks. Just hit reset and it now doesnt display off. Seems to be something with the display setting. I must have selected no display. going to have to reread that section and see whats up later. Now it goes to some other display instead of turning off, would prefer if it would just stay on the original normal screen. will dig more when I have time.

Havent run auto EQ or anything but sounds good so far...but my bar is pretty low xD


----------



## OneGun

bhk1004 said:


> Thanks. Just hit reset and it now doesnt display off. Seems to be something with the display setting. I must have selected no display. going to have to reread that section and see whats up later. Now it goes to some other display instead of turning off, would prefer if it would just stay on the original normal screen. will dig more when I have time.
> 
> Havent run auto EQ or anything but sounds good so far...but my bar is pretty low xD


If it's changing into Demo mode, which will also change the colors, that happened to me and I think you just press and hold the "disp" button. 

FWIW, I ran the auto EQ/TA, but I didn't care for the sound. Gonna go in myself and do manual TA when I have time to measure. 

I set the eq to one that's kinda similar to the "superbass" preset and it sounds okay. Haven't had time to really get into tuning just yet, but right now it's acceptable.


----------



## Alrojoca

bhk1004 said:


> haha i cant believe I read througth entirety of this thread... just installed an 80prs last night. I am pretty new to this, and currently just running in standard mode, and may change this in the future. havent decided if having the flexibility would actually be a good thing for me haha.
> 
> Anyways a quick question. Does anyone have an issue with the Display turning completely off constantly? The headunit works fine, doesnt stop playing music or anything, but just turns display off after about 5-10 seconds. I want it basically permanently on while the car is on. I called pioneer and they have no idea, told me to reset the unit and if it doesnt fix it then send it in for warranty. They think some setting deeper is incorrectly setup.
> 
> Anywho appreciate any help.
> 
> Also... still racking my brain on if I want to go active. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole and read all the information on how to properly set it up. Anywho we shall see.




I discovered one thing the other day. If you press and hold the EQ button, it turns the display screen off, once you turn the volume up or touch anything else the display comes back for a few seconds before it turns off. 

Just hold the EQ button to change it to full display at all times. 

The Demo thing can be a pain to remove, i wish I remember how I fixed it.



This is just something extra I wanted to share.
This was an issue I had and I pmed a few members about it.


I was going to blame the amplifiers, and I thought It was the tweeter RCA voltages in active mode, not providing voltage above 1.5 volts, based on the jbl amplifier's Low, Hi and Hi 2 switch setting. I was able to get a gain setting on the correct position for RCA's 1.5-15 volts range. Even though I did not experienced any floor noise with less than 1.5 v (0.5- 1.5 V amp gain sw setting) 
Now it is where it should be.

Despite my bitching of low volume recordings and set gains at 75-90% volume with this HU and as JBL recommended the volume needs to be at maximum to get the best voltage out of the RCA's


----------



## ckirocz28

bhk1004 said:


> haha i cant believe I read througth entirety of this thread... just installed an 80prs last night. I am pretty new to this, and currently just running in standard mode, and may change this in the future. havent decided if having the flexibility would actually be a good thing for me haha.
> 
> Anyways a quick question. Does anyone have an issue with the Display turning completely off constantly? The headunit works fine, doesnt stop playing music or anything, but just turns display off after about 5-10 seconds. I want it basically permanently on while the car is on. I called pioneer and they have no idea, told me to reset the unit and if it doesnt fix it then send it in for warranty. They think some setting deeper is incorrectly setup.
> 
> Anywho appreciate any help.
> 
> Also... still racking my brain on if I want to go active. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole and read all the information on how to properly set it up. Anywho we shall see.


OneGun mentioned demo mode, turn off the head unit, then press and hold the volume knob to get to the menu where demo mode can be turned on or off.
I think you had the display turned off, press and hold the EQ button to toggle that.
I just went active from passive with the same component set, I didn't use the head unit for that as I have a MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12, I'm running full range from the head unit. I highly recommend running active if possible regardless of head unit, I immediately noticed several improvements.

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckirocz28

Running an active setup only adds crossover point selections to the tuning, it's not that much harder.

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


----------



## gijoe

ckirocz28 said:


> Running an active setup only adds crossover point selections to the tuning, it's not that much harder.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


It adds crossovers, 2 more channels of TA, and level matching. There is much more to active than just a pair of crossovers (at least if you want it to sound better than passive, which is the whole point).


----------



## ckirocz28

gijoe said:


> It adds crossovers, 2 more channels of TA, and level matching. There is much more to active than just a pair of crossovers (at least if you want it to sound better than passive, which is the whole point).


Yeah, I forgot to mention the additional time alignment. I'm curious, how do YOU accomplish level matching your separate components?

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckirocz28

Since my components are coaxially mounted I didn't feel the need to change my TA at this time, I just copied the values to the new channels, same with EQ.

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


----------



## gijoe

ckirocz28 said:


> Yeah, I forgot to mention the additional time alignment. I'm curious, how do YOU accomplish level matching your separate components?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


I usually rough them in by ear, then run some sweeps in the frequency range I am working with. You want a sweep that's mid frequency is close to the crossover point so that half is played by each speaker. The sweep should sound smooth and as the frequencies shift from one speaker to the next they should be the same volume.


----------



## ckirocz28

gijoe said:


> I usually rough them in by ear, then run some sweeps in the frequency range I am working with. You want a sweep that's mid frequency is close to the crossover point so that half is played by each speaker. The sweep should sound smooth and as the frequencies shift from one speaker to the next they should be the same volume.


You mean you MEASURE with an RTA?

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


----------



## gijoe

ckirocz28 said:


> You mean you MEASURE with an RTA?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk


I do eventually, yes, but that's not what I said. I said I run sweeps to level match.


----------



## Alrojoca

One of the things that could have been better or changed also is the. EQ1,2 and TA1,2. 

Why call it EQ custom 1?, when it's not, it's the same as EQ2, displayed in a useless way. The TA 1, is just something to change the way the TA2 displays also. At least when you select front right position in the audio settings, it reverses the TA to that position, I wish the EQ did the same thing but it is not the case. It would have been nice to have a complete stage settings reversed when hitting the right front position in active mode. It seems like they did not think about it, to make the position mode more useful.
Other than that and the active audio menu learning curve that takes time to set, it is a great head unit.
I was able to eliminate the AUX1,2 to save time switching between sources.


----------



## DJ Welfare

Time alignment 1 also with the lever bar you can select between Initial and Custom, Custom to me sounds much better.


----------



## rton20s

Alrojoca said:


> One of the things that could have been better or changed also is the. EQ1,2 and TA1,2.
> 
> Why call it EQ custom 1?, when it's not, it's the same as EQ2, displayed in a useless way. The TA 1, is just something to change the way the TA2 displays also. At least when you select front right position in the audio settings, it reverses the TA to that position, I wish the EQ did the same thing but it is not the case. It would have been nice to have a complete stage settings reversed when hitting the right front position in active mode. It seems like they did not think about it, to make the position mode more useful.
> Other than that and the active audio menu learning curve that takes time to set, it is a great head unit.
> I was able to eliminate the AUX1,2 to save time switching between sources.


It has been a long time since I used the DEH-80PRS for tuning, but I don't think your assessment for EQ Custom1/2 is accurate. I think TA1 & TA2 operated differently than you think as well. 

TA1 selects between OFF/Initial (factory)/Custom (user defined)/Auto TA. TA2 adjustments are saved into the "Custom" setting within TA1. 

Ont the EQ side, Custom1 is source specific. So, you can have a Custom1 for USB, another for CD, another for Aux and so on. Custom2 is a "universal" EQ setting that applies to all sources. I learned this the hard way at my first competition. I made all of my adjustments on Custom1 with a USB source and then competed with a CD in Custom1. In this case, Custom1 was FLAT.


----------



## OneGun

So I'm sure this has been covered in this thread, but I'm too lazy to search the hundreds of posts, so I'm going to ask again to be certain. 

And I did look in the manual and even watched Pioneer's YouTube vids, but still not 100% certain. 

So, when I switch to Network Mode, my subs still remain my subs, but now the "Front" signal are my mids and the "Rear" is now for my highs/tweets. 

Is this correct?


----------



## gijoe

OneGun said:


> So I'm sure this has been covered in this thread, but I'm too lazy to search the hundreds of posts, so I'm going to ask again to be certain.
> 
> And I did look in the manual and even watched Pioneer's YouTube vids, but still not 100% certain.
> 
> So, when I switch to Network Mode, my subs still remain my subs, but now the "Front" signal are my mids and the "Rear" is now for my highs/tweets.
> 
> Is this correct?


Yes.


----------



## OneGun

gijoe said:


> Yes.


Cool/thanks. 

So I guess I'm going to switch my passive system over to active tonight then (time permitting). 

I'll be running a set of Morel Maximo 6 Components up front and a Pioneer TS-SWX2502 sub in the back. 

My plan is to cross the sub at 80hz, bandpass the mids from 80 to 3.5k, then cross the tweets at 3.5k. 

Someone else here recommended a 24db slope. 

Does this sound legit as a starting point?


----------



## rton20s

OneGun said:


> Cool/thanks.
> 
> So I guess I'm going to switch my passive system over to active tonight then (time permitting).
> 
> I'll be running a set of Morel Maximo 6 Components up front and a Pioneer TS-SWX2502 sub in the back.
> 
> My plan is to cross the sub at 80hz, bandpass the mids from 80 to 3.5k, then cross the tweets at 3.5k.
> 
> Someone else here recommended a 24db slope.
> 
> Does this sound legit as a starting point?


On the Maximos the OE passives provide a 3.5kHz crossover with a 12dB slope. In that range, the Pioneer can provide a 3.15kHz or 4 kHz crossover at 6/12/18/24dB slopes. You might try 3.15kHz @ 24dB to see how well it does. Listen carefully for distortion/harshness above and below the crossover frequency as you turn up the volume. The lower crossover might be fine, but you might need to raise the crossover point to 4kHz. 

If you have the ability to measure the system, you'll also want to check and see what the acoustic high/low pass filters are compared to the electronic. For instance, it might only take an 18dB or even 12dB electronic slope to create a 24dB acoustic slope.


----------



## MAIDEN69

Can someone help me out on this head unit. I will be running the Dayton DSP with SI 3 ways and a sub. I want to use the front output on the 80PRS to feed the dsp for the 3 way front stage. Full range output. I want to use the Sub output on the 80PRS to feed the Dayton for the subwoofer. Can the Sub output on the 80PRS be Full Range? If so, does the Subwoofer Level(volume) feature still work? Or does it only work if using the internal low pass xover? I want the Sub Level feature but want to have all the processing done by the DSP.
And what compatability with Android phones does this have? Just phone calls? I have an Ipod Classic loaded with my entire cd collection in Windows Lossless that will stay in the car. Does this head unit show the track info on the screen from the ipod? Art? I'm guessing no. Wish they made a double din version so I can have a backup camera. I am considering this one and just run a camera that will pop up on my phone.


----------



## OneGun

MAIDEN69 said:


> Can someone help me out on this head unit. I will be running the Dayton DSP with SI 3 ways and a sub. I want to use the front output on the 80PRS to feed the dsp for the 3 way front stage. Full range output. I want to use the Sub output on the 80PRS to feed the Dayton for the subwoofer. Can the Sub output on the 80PRS be Full Range? If so, does the Subwoofer Level(volume) feature still work? Or does it only work if using the internal low pass xover? I want the Sub Level feature but want to have all the processing done by the DSP.
> And what compatability with Android phones does this have? Just phone calls? I have an Ipod Classic loaded with my entire cd collection in Windows Lossless that will stay in the car. Does this head unit show the track info on the screen from the ipod? Art? I'm guessing no. Wish they made a double din version so I can have a backup camera. I am considering this one and just run a camera that will pop up on my phone.



Put the 80 PRS in standard mode (opposed to network mode). Its default position from the factory is standard mode, so if you've never switched it, just leave it as is. 

Connect it to the Dayton DSP 408 as you planned... 2 RCAs full range (right and left) and 2 RCAs for subs (right and left). There's no need to worry about having a full range signal for subs. Just connect them this way. Then, if you choose, you can control the subwoofer level from the HU. 

I have no experience with Android, but it should work fine with your iPod. It will display track, artist, album information if it's in your device. 

Art? No. It's single din, non-color display.


----------



## rton20s

MAIDEN69 said:


> Can someone help me out on this head unit. I will be running the Dayton DSP with SI 3 ways and a sub. I want to use the front output on the 80PRS to feed the dsp for the 3 way front stage. Full range output. I want to use the Sub output on the 80PRS to feed the Dayton for the subwoofer. Can the Sub output on the 80PRS be Full Range? If so, does the Subwoofer Level(volume) feature still work? Or does it only work if using the internal low pass xover? I want the Sub Level feature but want to have all the processing done by the DSP.
> And what compatability with Android phones does this have? Just phone calls? I have an Ipod Classic loaded with my entire cd collection in Windows Lossless that will stay in the car. Does this head unit show the track info on the screen from the ipod? Art? I'm guessing no. Wish they made a double din version so I can have a backup camera. I am considering this one and just run a camera that will pop up on my phone.


What you describe is exactly how I have used my DEH-80PRS through two different DSPs (Mosconi 6to8 V8 and Helix DSP.2) and it works quite well. Other than being a bit cumbersome to adjust sub level (which I rarely do). 

As OneGun mentioned, if set in Standard mode use the Front channels to feed full range L/R to the DSP by using the lowest possible HPF and set the slope to PASS. You can do the same in Network Mode with the Mid channels (HPF: 25 / LPF: 12.5k set to PASS). For the sub channel, the best you can do is set the LPF to 250Hz with a 12dB slope. 

I don't have an Android phone, so I can't comment on compatibility. With an iPhone it will display Artist, Album and Song information but no album art. If things like album art, Android Auto or a large display are important to you, it might be worth looking at some of the current double DINs available. You won't be sacrificing anything from an SQ standpoint.


----------



## MAIDEN69

rton20s said:


> What you describe is exactly how I have used my DEH-80PRS through two different DSPs (Mosconi 6to8 V8 and Helix DSP.2) and it works quite well. Other than being a bit cumbersome to adjust sub level (which I rarely do).
> 
> As OneGun mentioned, if set in Standard mode use the Front channels to feed full range L/R to the DSP by using the lowest possible HPF and set the slope to PASS. You can do the same in Network Mode with the Mid channels (HPF: 25 / LPF: 12.5k set to PASS). For the sub channel, the best you can do is set the LPF to 250Hz with a 12dB slope.
> 
> I don't have an Android phone, so I can't comment on compatibility. With an iPhone it will display Artist, Album and Song information but no album art. If things like album art, Android Auto or a large display are important to you, it might be worth looking at some of the current double DINs available. You won't be sacrificing anything from an SQ standpoint.


The double dins just don't seem to be marketed for SQ. Never a mention of anything of those sorts, at least that I can find. A double din would be better in this install as it is a Lexus LS400. A big sedan. A backup camera would sure be nice. Are there any known models to look at? Alpine? Kenwood? Pioneer?


----------



## MAIDEN69

Oh, and how is it cumbersome to use the sub level? Is it that you have to cycle through other functions to get to it?


----------



## ckirocz28

MAIDEN69 said:


> Oh, and how is it cumbersome to use the sub level? Is it that you have to cycle through other functions to get to it?


Minimum of 2 presses on the volume knob then you can adjust with the lever. As for Android compatibility, it will do phone operations just fine, bluetooth works but without song info, and usb connection presents as removable storage.


----------



## rton20s

MAIDEN69 said:


> The double dins just don't seem to be marketed for SQ. Never a mention of anything of those sorts, at least that I can find. A double din would be better in this install as it is a Lexus LS400. A big sedan. A backup camera would sure be nice. Are there any known models to look at? Alpine? Kenwood? Pioneer?


Most of the best SQ cars in the world are not using a DEH-80PRS as their source. You're more likely to see OE head units, stand alone media players direct to a DSP, DD head unit from one of the big names, and in some cases the Sony RSX-GS9. If you're interested in an aftermarket DD for the feature sets they offer, there are decent options at varying prices from all of the brands you mentioned. I might throw Sony into that mix as well. I would recommend reading reviews on sites like this one and some of the better FB groups if you find a unit that "checks all of the boxes." There have been some instances that something that looks great on paper hasn't been up to par in the real world. And you'll rarely see that info in a review on sites like Crutchfield, Sonic Electronix or Amazon. 



MAIDEN69 said:


> Oh, and how is it cumbersome to use the sub level? Is it that you have to cycle through other functions to get to it?


ckirocz28 is correct. A minimum of two button pushes to get to the level control if it is the last place you navigated to within the menu structure. More if it was not the last place.


----------



## MAIDEN69

I just bought one either way. If I don't use it in my Lexus, I will save it for my 46 Harvester. Would be perfect for the system I plan on using in it. Will take a look at the double dins as well. My issue is my eyes suck these days. Just did a nice Kenwood double din in my son's Lexus. Half the time I can't read it with the sun or if I'm driving. But at night, it sure is sweet.


----------



## OneGun

MAIDEN69 said:


> I just bought one either way. If I don't use it in my Lexus, I will save it for my 46 Harvester. Would be perfect for the system I plan on using in it. Will take a look at the double dins as well. My issue is my eyes suck these days. Just did a nice Kenwood double din in my son's Lexus. Half the time I can't read it with the sun or if I'm driving. But at night, it sure is sweet.



A lot of the Kenwood units that aren't touchsreen have a lot of complaints about visibility in sun. I've had a few the past couple years and can vouch for this, although for me it wasn't that big a deal. 

If you want something to use for your new system with your DSP 408, I can share my experience. I'm using an Alpine iLX-207 in the system I have with my DSP 408. At first, I didn't think I liked the sound of the Alpine, but at the time, I didn't have the DSP installed and was running it through Infinity Kappa 6.5" coax. 

Then I installed the DSP and, at the same time, replaced those Infinity's with Pioneer TS-Z65CH components. I really like the sound now and my assumption is it must be the components that are responsible for the improvement as I doubt the DSP itself is imparting any color on the sound. But one really never knows how different pieces will interact. 

In any case, I'm very happy now with the Alpine iLX-207 and it has all the features anyone could want. Just make sure you purchase the dongle that gets wired in so you can access the settings while driving. Google "Alpline bypass". 

Lastly, I wish I knew you were ready to by the 80PRS. I have one BNIB that I'm considering selling. I had bought/kept an extra one thinking I'd use it in another build, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards right now as I'll have no time in the foreseeable future to do anything like that.


----------



## MAIDEN69

I'm sure you will, or can that is, sell it. I just got mine for $240 BNIB. Assuming I get what was described, feel it was a fair price. Have not really paid attention to selling prices these days. Or what they normally go for on the internet.


----------



## rton20s

rton20s said:


> ckirocz28 is correct. A minimum of two button pushes to get to the level control if it is the last place you navigated to within the menu structure. More if it was not the last place.


Correction. It is three presses on the large Multi-Control button and then adjusting the level with the Lever if you are in Network mode. Again this assumes that you were already in the AUDIO\NETWORK 2\ menu and had already selected to work with the Low LPF Filter options in the AUDIO\NETWORK 1\ menu.

In Standard Mode it takes two presses of the M.C. button and then adjustmen by the Lever. This is only if the last menu you were in is AUDIO\SW2.


----------



## ckirocz28

rton20s said:


> Correction. It is three presses on the large Multi-Control button and then adjusting the level with the Lever if you are in Network mode. Again this assumes that you were already in the AUDIO\NETWORK 2\ menu and had already selected to work with the Low LPF Filter options in the AUDIO\NETWORK 1\ menu.
> 
> In Standard Mode it takes two presses of the M.C. button and then adjustmen by the Lever. This is only if the last menu you were in is AUDIO\SW2.


You are correct. I didn't even notice the difference when I switched to network mode, my bad.


----------



## alex1002

I don't think this head unit is got optical out or am I wrong?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

ckirocz28 said:


> You are correct. I didn't even notice the difference when I switched to network mode, my bad.


No reason for a "my bad." I was actually correcting myself. 



alex1002 said:


> I don't think this head unit is got optical out or am I wrong?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


No. There are very few head units with optical out.


----------



## Jlopz

It's for far, the most advance single DIN in the market. We do have it available at our store Onlinecarstereo.com in Los Angeles.
Every time it comes to our stock, it lasts few days only. It's super popular.


----------



## rlee777

MAIDEN69 said:


> The double dins just don't seem to be marketed for SQ. Never a mention of anything of those sorts, at least that I can find. A double din would be better in this install as it is a Lexus LS400. A big sedan. A backup camera would sure be nice. Are there any known models to look at? Alpine? Kenwood? Pioneer?


For double-din SQ, consider the Kenwood DDX9904s (older) or the current DDX9905s. The SQ is excellent with the newer Kenwood DD units with strong internal DSP functions.


----------



## rton20s

Jlopz said:


> It's for far, the most advance single DIN in the market. We do have it available at our store Onlinecarstereo.com in Los Angeles.
> Every time it comes to our stock, it lasts few days only. It's super popular.


Most advanced? In what way? 

I have had mine since it was released and still use it every day. It is far from the most advanced. For DSP tuning at the price point it is great, but the DEX-P99RS is far superior. And as far as features outside of tuning, the DEH-80PRS is well behind the times. 

If you're going to create an account just to shill for your company without paying vendor fees, at least provide more accurate information.


----------



## ckirocz28

Anyone else find that the SW/Low rca out lacks impact? I just tried getting my SW signal from the Rear rca (routing in MiniDSP) instead of the SW rca and found all of the impact and clarity I've been missing from my sub. I just though my hatch was losing more and more structural integrity, but no, my SW rca from the head unit was not delivering it. Anyone else had this problem? I'm running in Standard mode to facilitate flexibility in the MiniDSP.


----------



## WinWiz

Auto tuning behavior.
When I run the auto tune the 80PRS always sets my sub low pass to 80Hz 12db/octave, and my midwoofers high pass to 100Hz 12db/octave. It also set my subwoofer delay to 400cm (max distance) but my sub distance is only 150cm. I wonder if the 80PRS set this long distance trying to compensate for the phase issue caused by the 12db/octave xover?
After reading audiofrogs simple tuning guide I entered measured distances and changed the sub/mid xover to 24db/octave at 63/80Hz. This substantially increased the lowbass output.
So I advice anyone using the autotune and missing lowbass try something similar.


----------



## gijoe

WinWiz said:


> Auto tuning behavior.
> When I run the auto tune the 80PRS always sets my sub low pass to 80Hz 12db/octave, and my midwoofers high pass to 100Hz 12db/octave. It also set my subwoofer delay to 400cm (max distance) but my sub distance is only 150cm. I wonder if the 80PRS set this long distance trying to compensate for the phase issue caused by the 12db/octave xover?
> After reading audiofrogs simple tuning guide I entered measured distances and changed the sub/mid xover to 24db/octave at 63/80Hz. This substantially increased the lowbass output.
> So I advice anyone using the autotune and missing lowbass try something similar.


As great as Pioneers fully active single dins have been over the years, their auto tune has never been excellent. It can be a good place to start, but I've had to make adjustments every time I've used it. After learning how to tune better, I stopped using it altogether, but it can get you in the ballpark quickly, which is great for someone either new to tuning, or less interested in the tuning process. I always found that auto tune set the tweeters too high as well.


----------



## WinWiz

Yes I also always had to lower the tweeters. It would be nice if it was possible to see what the auto eq actually does...


----------



## gijoe

WinWiz said:


> Yes I also always had to lower the tweeters. It would be nice if it was possible to see what the auto eq actually does...


You can take frequency response measurements of each side before and after the auto tune, but I agree, it would be nice to see on the display what the auto tune has adjusted.


----------



## Alrojoca

One issue, for this page, the iPod function. If you select artists, it only plays the artist you select it won't play al, artists, same with albums.
I think you need to choose songs to play all songs but I will only play them in alphabetical order. The issue basically is limited, same for a play list, only plays that list over and over it won't go to the next one, it's annoying and the reason I use USB sticks cause it will play every folder as it was created.
Maybe there is something I'm overlooking but so far I am not a fan of Apple I device playback with this HU


----------



## tridoteverything

How does this head unit work with a Galaxy S7?


----------



## jnads87

tridoteverything said:


> How does this head unit work with a Galaxy S7?


Works perfectly. I was using mine with an s7 for about 3 years. Anything in particular you're asking about?


----------



## thendric18

subd


----------



## veleno

So I've been kind of playing with this hu and I'm a bit perplexed. I read through this thread but I won't say I've remembered everything, plus I read it before I got the hu and all my cut/paste "tips/tricks" info got lost when my computer crashed.

Here's the gear:
ES horns up front
6nd430 mids
single Falstaff sub (for now)
Mmats hifi6150hd 6 chan. amp (horns on ch. 1/2, mids on ch. 3/4, sub bridged on ch. 5/6), (xo set to AP), (freq/hz turned down to 60)

It's set to network mode.

Network 1 shows Low LPF, Mid HPF/LPF, High HPF.
Network 2 shows LPF, Mid HPF/LPF, High HPF, and a "Level" setting. 
Network 3 shows "slope db/oct" and "phase normal/reverse"
Network 4 only works with Low LPF, and allows you to select "stereo/mono"

From my reading and communication with others, I should set the sub at 80hz @ 24db, mids from 80hz - 1200hz @ 24db, and horns at 1200hz @ 24db.

Here's where I don't know what to do. 

1. In network 2 for any of the speakers, what do I set the "level" setting at?

2. In network 2, is this where I'm setting the 24 db for all the speakers? If not, what settings do I use for the Low/Mid/High LPF/HPF?

3. In network 3, is this where I'm setting the 24 db for all the speakers? If not, what settings do I use for the slope for each speaker?


Sorry for the noob questions. I thought it was simple enough to set the tune but the unknowns have confused me even more. Thank you in advance for any help given. I'm also willing to call someone if they prefer that method. Thanks again and Happy New Year!


----------



## gijoe

Within each of those different Network menus you need to scroll through to the set of drivers that you're working with. I believe menus 1-3 give you access to the tweeters and mids, and menu 4 is just for the sub channel. I haven't played with the 80PRS in a while, and don't have access to one, but everything is explained in the owner's manual. It's a bit cumbersome at first, but once you figure out how to work your way through each menu it actually becomes pretty easy.


----------



## lurch

One of the claims Pioneer makes for this unit is " variable loudness ". 
What i found out the other day while trying to tame a 50 -80 hz peak i could never get rid of was that the loudness, although the volume was very close to full blast, was still very much active. 
The literature says that the loudness starts to fade after 30 on the volume dial, this is not so, it is active throughout the entire volume range. 
It seems that this manual info was just copy and pasted from the p99 manual. ( ? )

Just some info i thought would be good to pass along.


----------



## gijoe

lurch said:


> One of the claims Pioneer makes for this unit is " variable loudness ".
> What i found out the other day while trying to tame a 50 -80 hz peak i could never get rid of was that the loudness, although the volume was very close to full blast, was still very much active.
> The literature says that the loudness starts to fade after 30 on the volume dial, this is not so, it is active throughout the entire volume range.
> It seems that this manual info was just copy and pasted from the p99 manual. ( ? )
> 
> Just some info i thought would be good to pass along.


That's interesting. I haven't tested a Pioneer specifically, but I do have data for Kenwood's loudness feature, and I recall Pioneer's working the same way. I've used the 800, 80, and 99 from Pioneer and all of them seemed to defeat the loudness boost before I got into the upper range of the knob. Do you have a link to the literature? How much boost are you seeing after volume 30, 35, 40, etc.? Are you using your ears, or a mic and RTA? I'd love to see your graphs.


----------



## lurch

Hi gijoe !
I didn't use a mic, or take measurements, but i suppose i could take a screen pic on my iphone using pink noise. My ears were the judge, and by 60 on the dial the loudness should've been completely absent but it was quite clearly active, turning off the loudness cured the large hump in the bass area without question. 
This unit is the PRS 80, i should have been clear about that. 

I still love this unit, it has been flawless and withstood the major summer and winter extremes here in Canada. 

I'll dig out the manual and find the loudness paragraph ....


----------



## lurch

From pioneers web site : ( link to page ) DEH-80PRS - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment
Here is the manual link : https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-80PRS_OperationManual072616.pdf
The manual doen't mention a " variable loudness " or a " 3 tier " loudness, seems the web site got it wrong.
On page 39 of the manual in specifications it gives a contour of : + 10db @ 100hz and 6.5 db @ 10K. 
but adds , ( volume -30db. ), but nothing about a variable loudness, unsure of of why they mention -30db because to me it sounds constant. 

*DISPLAY*

Display with LED BacklightFull-Dot LCD (3-Line)
Dimmer Setting (On/Off)
Color Customization210,000 Colors
*BLUETOOTH*

Built-in Bluetooth®
*TUNER*

Presets24 Stations/6 Presets
Best Station Memory (BSM)
RDS
Supertuner® IIID
*DIGITAL MEDIA PLAYBACK*

CD/CD-R/RW Playback
MP3 Audio Playback
AAC Audio Playback
*AUDIO*

RCA Preouts3 (5V)
Built-in AmplifierMOSFET 50 W x 4
EqualizerDual (L/R) 16-Band Graphic
D/A ConverterBurr Brown 24-bit
DSP
Time AlignmentAuto/Manual
Crossover Network3-Way
Loudness3-Mode
Listening Position Selector
Advanced Sound Retriever
*EXPANDABILITY*

USB
AUX Input


----------



## veleno

Could the variable loudness be related to road noise when driving? I remember seeing something in the tuning section where you can turn it on/off. In my oem lexus system, the loudness would adjust automatically depending on road noise.

Or are you talking about something else?


----------



## gijoe

veleno said:


> Could the variable loudness be related to road noise when driving? I remember seeing something in the tuning section where you can turn it on/off. In my oem lexus system, the loudness would adjust automatically depending on road noise.
> 
> Or are you talking about something else?


Not in this case. The loudness feature boosts low frequencies, and high frequencies at low volume levels. As you turn the volume up, loudness applies less and less boost. At a point in the volume range the loudness will not be applying any boost at all. This feature is designed to address the Fletcher Monson curves, which relates to how we perceive frequencies at different SPL. 

I've tested this feature on a newer Kenwood head unit, and I have owned many Pioneer head units, but I never tested the Pioneers. Lurch is saying that his Pioneer is still boosting the low end, even at a point in the volume knob where the boost should no longer be boosted. His claim seems counter to my experience, but again, I never tested the Pioneers I had, so I'm really curious to see frequency response measurements.


----------



## lurch

I was going to do that today but got crazy busy at work, all i wanted to do afterwards was get home and flop out, I am shattered. 

Promise i will get to it, even though we are expecting a cold front and LOTS of snow tomorrow. 😡


----------



## lurch

I was going to do that today but got crazy busy at work, all i wanted to do afterwards was get home and flop out, I am shattered. 

Promise i will get to it, even though we are expecting a cold front and LOTS of snow tomorrow. 😡


----------



## lurch

ok, today i managed to take some very poor measurements using audio tools FFT program.
used pink noise from an audison test cd and my iphone mic.
all eq flat.
first graph = -30db , no loudness
second grsph = -30db with loudness
third graph = -50db with loudness
fourth graph = -60db with loudness.
i tried to keep the levels even using my H800 alpine processor.
don't expect too much here, very crude and fast method as it was snowing and quite cold here.





































don't mock my curve, once i saw these i continued on and cleaned this all up 😂


----------



## veleno

gijoe said:


> Not in this case. The loudness feature boosts low frequencies, and high frequencies at low volume levels. As you turn the volume up, loudness applies less and less boost. At a point in the volume range the loudness will not be applying any boost at all. This feature is designed to address the Fletcher Monson curves, which relates to how we perceive frequencies at different SPL.
> 
> I've tested this feature on a newer Kenwood head unit, and I have owned many Pioneer head units, but I never tested the Pioneers. Lurch is saying that his Pioneer is still boosting the low end, even at a point in the volume knob where the boost should no longer be boosted. His claim seems counter to my experience, but again, I never tested the Pioneers I had, so I'm really curious to see frequency response measurements.


Got it, thanks for the clarification.

lurch, how are you integrating the 80prs with the H800 and how do you like the sound of the combo? Is the HU tuning turned off/down and all tuning from the H800?


----------



## lurch

The prs80 is set to " normal " mode and i use the front rca outputs as the source for the h800. 
No xovers are used in the pioneer, all the active xovers, time alignment etc. are the responsibilty of the h800. I do however use the EQ of the pioneer for different sources, the radio is eq'd differently for the talking programs i listen to as an example ( the bass is brought down in order to stop the PUH ! sounds of microphones ), my sub makes me jump out of the car when that happens !
Accessing the eq on the pioneer is quick and easy as opposed to the H800 so i use that for quick minor adjustments. 
i DO like the ease of the H800 RUX, it makes it easy to change things without needing a laptop if i want to tweak. Also the bass level control on the RUX is a must for me, i listen to old & new recordings and they can be vastly different. 

The quality of the sound is excellent, the prs80 is clean as a whistle, the h800 does not colour the sound in any way. 
All in all this is a great combo. 
The pioneer is special all by itself but the duo just makes things way more tunable.


----------

