# 2009 Lexus RX 350 (2nd gen) door panel removal



## rxonmymind

I'll lay this marker here in case anyone else comes along and needs this information be it a hobbyist or pro installer. Let me say that these doors are very robust and would do fine on their own without the need for sound deadener. However, like anything else us DIY'ers like to do is tinker and curiosity gets the best of us. So without hesitation.....
To remove is as follows.

Remove pop up button on the inside door near the side view mirror.
Remove stealth door handle cover that is in turn hiding the screw
Remove felt within the door handle to access the screw
Gently lift the automatic window switch/ door lock tray upwards. Disconnect switches. Be careful doing this as they all require you to pinch down a lock that's holding it in. Do NOT forcefully yank or pull. 

Next post....


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## rxonmymind

Window & door switches.. Do NOT yank or pull on these. Find the release tab usually in the center of the modules.


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## rxonmymind

Once all that has been removed gently start at the bottom by removing the tabs that hold the door in place and work your way around to the top. Once you do it takes a good amount of pressure to take the door off by lifting it upwards. You can hit the bottom of the door or use steady pressure. What your fighting are metal pinchers that have clamped unto the inside sill of the door. 

The photos as you can see are from the bottom/underside of the door as identified by the courtesy lights. To get a better visual of the entire door make a mental note of all the tabs that go around the door.


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## rxonmymind

Finally the speaker. Measuring 6x9 the openings on the door are as follows.
See pics. 
The depth is in fact 2.5" to the window when it's rolled down all the way. 
From one green screw tab to the next is 8".


Next post...


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## rxonmymind

Depth WITH windows down. Thus from the track to the front speakers door. What you see is the finished product of having the inner door double layered, outer door likewise in addition to RAAMaudio ensolite. I also did the door card under the wool felt lining ( forgot to take a pic). 
To replace start at the top lock in the four metal clamps. It's easier when the window is down out of your way. Tilt at angle and with your palm "hammer" it down. The rest is easy just a matter of lining up the pop rivets are easy as tapping them back into place. 
Thanks for the read and take care. If you have any questions I'll be glad to answer them. If I don't forget. Getting old....lol.


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## james2266

Yep, looks familiar. Wish someone took that time before I did mine. If anyone needs info, I have taken virtually every inner panel out of mine at one point or other. Oh, and those doors will easily house an Illusion c8 midbass with zero modifications to the door - only a 1/2 abs spacer was needed. I think we even used the factory bolt holes (or at least most of them).


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## rxonmymind

A tip. When you do get around to reinforcing the door card remember to either tape off the wood veneer or place it on some towel or insolite as I did as this will face down. Even though I did take precautions, I moved this just a touch onto the concrete floor and managed to just give it a nick. Grr. Nothing upsetting but to a customer.....it'll save you a ton of headache.


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## rxonmymind

james2266 said:


> Yep, looks familiar. Wish someone took that time before I did mine. If anyone needs info, I have taken virtually every inner panel out of mine at one point or other. Oh, and those doors will easily house an Illusion c8 midbass with zero modifications to the door - only a 1/2 abs spacer was needed. I think we even used the factory bolt holes (or at least most of them).


Thanks for your input James. Feel welcome to add anything else that may be of use. Love to see those C8 posted up in the doors if you still have the pics.


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## james2266

Mine doesn't have the wood grain trim. It is not a look I like anyways so I am thankful to not have any in mine. That was a good tip regardless and I do always make sure to be very careful with the show side of the door panels when I have them off. Mine have been off many times unfortunately. I did get compliments from Bing on how there were zero rattles however and that made me feal really good about the job I did.

As for picks of my c8 in my doors, I think I posted in my build log on here but I will see if I can find a pic to post up here and I might link my log here too as I feel it might be relevant.


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## rxonmymind

Finally had some time to address the noise in the cargo area. Took between 2-3 hours to take everything apart. Pics & instructions to come later.



Finally got done a few minutes ago around 1:15 am. Put everything back together while I estimate this job was close to 10 hours to do. Well, took it for a test drive over the concrete causeway just outside of town as a test and sadly I have to tell you there was no noticeable improvement. My sound meter still registered 78-81 db and I go to turn on the vehicle to take it for a test drive and only the left speakers work. Not what I was expecting after laying down sound deadener & three layers of ensolite over the wheel area & cargo. 

Seriously disappointed.


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## rxonmymind

OK despite my early disaapointment I have to set that aside. 
Here we go....
First your going to run into a LOT of plastic pop rivets everywhere. If your thoughtful and organized such as keeping a round Tupperware bowl next to you to throw all your screws & rivets in as you go this will be fairly easy. All bolts & rivets be it left side or right are identical. 
With ONE exception. The MIDDLE seat belt anchor bolt that attaches to the floorpan. This bolt can ONLY fit in that hole. This bolt is unique in that it is one solid groove all the way down. Looks like a plain old bolt. The other bolts that hold the back seat down five total for each side have a fancy offset pattern on the bottom of the bolt. Easy to identity both.
You will need
10" or greater ratchet extension
10mm socket
9/16 socket(didn't have the mm for this one but it worked)
http://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-Upholstery-Satisfaction/dp/B00LUPOSD4
This is really nice to have especially for removing the pop rivets evenly. Get it and you'll be glad. 
Start with removing the seats. Will be easier later for you. Don't start at the access covers so leave them for now.

First take the tail covering off the back of the seats. Looks like a tuxedo tail. These are all plastic pop rivets.
Then take a 10mm socket to remove both the left & right side mini seat anchor thats on the back of the metal brace. 
Start on the driver side with the single seat. Then move the back seat as far forward as you can with the adjustment bar that's underneath the seat. Take a 10" or 12" socket extension with a 9/16" socket and remove the three bolts that are back there. It'll take some force. Then move the seats all the way back and remove the front bolts. This single seat is easily removed by one person. There are guide bullets that make it a bit of a hassle to remove this seat. Don't get frustrated. It's easy enough. 

Repeat with passenger side. 
This is where the anchor seat bolt in the middle is different. Make note of it.
Once all the bolts are undone it would be a LOT easier to just lift the seat onto the cargo area and remove it from the back. This way you'll not risk scratching the door/paint and you'll have good leverage being it's waist high to remove it. Not worth pulling tour back.

Next post..


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## rxonmymind

Middle seat belt anchor bolt....


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## rxonmymind

What it should look like when the above has been done.


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## rxonmymind

Phew. Now that has been done time to remove the seat belts bolts at the bottom of both passenger side & driver side in the back seat area. Pretty straight forward. This has to be removed in order to pry the plastic wheel well covers. 
The wheel well covers are all pop rivets with the exception of the netting anchors that are in the middl of the wheel well and back of the cargo bay by the lift gate. These have to come off. So pop rivets & anchor tie downs. Once these have all been removed the cover comes off via clips. No worries these will not break. Pretty easy to pop off. Oh and the plastic cargo latch cover that's held by pop rivets will have to be removed also to remove the wheel well cover. You'll see it when you peel all this back and follow the curve if the cover.


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## rxonmymind

Next remove the access panels that cover the trays underneath. Flip them into the open position. Then you'll find two bolts in the front and one behind that need to be unscrewed to remove the access covers. A hint. If you have fat finger getting to these front ones will be a PIA. Better to have that 10" socket extension be magnetized. Otherwise you'll have to pull the plastic back hard with one finger while holding the bolt simultaneously and guiding it back to its position when reassembling it. 
This ironically takes the longest time of the entire removal process. The bolt seem to take FOREVER to remove. But once done it's feels good. You can now sound deaden! Yaay! 

Took me roughly 2-3 hrs to do this as it was a first time going at it. Now that I know this might take an hour & half.

Another helpful item to have is a 4'x5'ply board. After removing everything lay this in the back of the cargo and use it as a table to make cuts on. It will serve as your "bench" inside the cargo/back seat area. This will save you a LOT of time getting in & out of the vehicle to make cuts. Also find a towel to sit on as the tar or whatever they used back there will get on your pants. I ruined a good pair not knowing this. Grrr.


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## rxonmymind

So it starts. 2# lead ensolite foam encapsulated sound deadener install in a FINAL attempt to quiet the road noise. This will be followed by mlv. So far I can tell you it's SLOOOOOOW going. Although it took only 40 minutes this time to take apart everything the cutting of the lead and attaching it to the kollosus via double sided Velcro & 3 M 77 spray is tedious. More pics to come.

Below is the lead around the wheel well. This took the longest time and hopefully it'll be quicker on the next one.


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## rxonmymind

All done with the install in the back cargo area to the back seats. Final sound reduction was between 10+ db. From my original reading of 82 db now its down to 69-72db.
I have yet to do the front cabin area and with this recent improvement I've a new found motivation to do it. However, it was a LOT of work and having spent 20+ hrs in the back of an SUV over the weekend, I'll be honest it's not something I enjoyed but knowing it done right is something. Granted, I saved a bucket of money but was away from my wife & daughter too much. That's always the case isn't it? Time or money. I'm glad it's almost done but next time I'll pay a young'n to do it.
Cheers.


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## rxonmymind

Oh BTW I suggested in an earlier post about leaving the cargo area intact so one can easily take out the "double" passenger seat. This way is easier on your back than through the door so as not to nick the paint job or tear to the door leather. Just a suggestion.


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## aholland1198

Can you post where you tapped into the signal to feed the processor, assuming you have one? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## diymobileaudio997

aholland1198 said:


> Can you post where you tapped into the signal to feed the processor, assuming you have one?


I believe the original poster used an aftermarket head unit with line level outputs. The line level outputs from the head unit feed the inputs on the DSP. The outputs from the DSP feed the inputs of the power amplifier.


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## rxonmymind

diymobileaudio997 said:


> I believe the original poster used an aftermarket head unit with line level outputs. The line level outputs from the head unit feed the inputs on the DSP. The outputs from the DSP feed the inputs of the power amplifier.


This. Thank you for answering this. Been away from this site awhile.


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