# Looking for best 10 for underseat sealed box



## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado double cab I am looking for a 10" subwooferto go under the rear seats. What is the best subwoofer for for a sealed box with .8 ft.³. I am building a custom mdf/fiberglass box.

Edit, should have put mouth ing depth is around 5.5 inches, I can probably get to 6

Cost id like to keep it down as much as possible, truck is a lease and shallow subs are really costly. 

Goals is good solid bass, sql I guess. I realize a single 10 is only so much. 

Alpine, and Jl audio is at the top of the list right now, I didn't like my sundown sd3, bit may give it another shot.


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## Audiophilefred (Oct 24, 2012)

How much mounting depth do you have available ?


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## juiceweazel (Jul 28, 2014)

Timhof13 said:


> I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado double cab I am looking for a 10" subwooferto go under the rear seats. What is the best subwoofer for for a sealed box with .8 ft.³. I am building a custom mdf/fiberglass box.


Very subjective question. Budget & goals are important here too


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

This


Carbon C10 XL | Illusion Audio


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## PorkCereal (Nov 24, 2009)

Sundown sd3 if you have the depth, only wants .5 sealed for the 10. Really enjoy mine


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Any other suggestions


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Alpine 10 type R if you have the depth, infinities and jbls if you want cheap


You asked for the the best output and SQ? Ilussion XL
Maybe morel ultimo if you have enough power to match the ilusion 

You want the most output or spl? JLs maybe although those sundowns are decent and offer good value


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## lurch (Jan 20, 2014)

why does kenwood never get a mention ?
i owned their slim 10" and thought it was actually pretty good. 
it certainly took a beating and held its composure doing it. 

just wondering .....


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

lurch said:


> why does kenwood never get a mention ?
> i owned their slim 10" and thought it was actually pretty good.
> it certainly took a beating and held its composure doing it.
> 
> just wondering .....


I've always wondered the same thing, are you talking the carbon fiber looking excelon?


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## lurch (Jan 20, 2014)

yes,
KFC - 1000 i think is the model number ?
i used to call it the " Kentucky Fried Chicken " sub. 

nice big voice coil, excersion pretty good. peaky response but EQ-able.


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

If you can wait a couple weeks, until they're back in stock.

Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

SHAGGS said:


> If you can wait a couple weeks, until they're back in stock.
> 
> Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm


I've heard good things, but output is supposedly lacking


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

I've never heard one, just that several have used them, with mostly positive results.
They have a little more xmax than the Kenwood's and the Infinity's.

Too bad you can't fit a SI BM-MKIV (12")
I just picked up a pair, and can't wait to get one bumping.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I wish I could fit a 12, not gonna happen. The tranny hump is fricken huge in the truck


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Any other suggestions , cdt maybe


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

I've heard good things said about Rockford's shallow mount subs, but never heard one in person. 

I have used a pair of Polk MM1240DVCs in the past a liked them. very clean and musical, with more than enough output "for me". 

So, MAYBE a Polk MM1040 or MM1040D. There's even a "marine" version, though I don't know what if any difference there is between it at the SVC standard model, as it's certified for marine use. 

They are rated at 350RMS and don't require more than a .66cuft net enclosure, so your .8cuft gross wouldn't be too much larger than what is "recommended". However, with running just one, an SPL monster it will NOT be. So definitely not an SQL driver. 

Clarion looks to have a pair of shallow mount subs as well and they seem to have good reviews too. But once more, no experience with them.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Weigel21 said:


> I've heard good things said about Rockford's shallow mount subs, but never heard one in person.
> 
> I have used a pair of Polk MM1240DVCs in the past a liked them. very clean and musical, with more than enough output "for me".
> 
> ...


I really think I might try that Polk sub, I'd like to find a used one if possible. I think my box is between .6 and .8 before sub, so that might be a great option. I'm really down to that and alpine type s or r if I can get the depth.


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

What amplifier have you for pushing whatever sub you get?


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

At $120 shipped for a new MM1040, I'm not sure there's much of a just cause to go for a used one unless you can find one for less than half that. 

Polk Audio MM1040 10" Mobile Monitor 700W Subwoofer

You'll also have a 60 days to sample it just to make sure it'll suit your needs, if not, you can return for a refund, though you do have to pay for return shipping.

Never heard (to my knowledge) any shallow mount JL's or Alpine's, but I've liked many of the drivers from both that I have heard.


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## omnibus (Feb 20, 2015)

If you didn't like the SD3's you have then you will be disappointed with just about anything within that size arrangement. You're best bet is to look into the ported versions for 8 inch. I highly recommend checking into this Alpine to see if it'll fit or of course just get the Type R and make your own box...great for smaller ported boxes. Sealed subs will fall off quickly in the lower frequency ranges giving you a higher peak in the 60-100 hz range which isn't desirable imo. .8ft3 for a 10 ...any capable 10 probably isn't what you'll want if the Sd3 didn't do it.

Remember just about any subwoofer that is spec'ed for .8 or less sealed box will pretty much sound the same. So don't waste money on another sub if the box is the same one used for the SD3 that you didn't like. It's all about the box, that's where great bass comes from, the sub is just to carry the specs for what you are wanting. Just try some out in Bassbox Pro software, you'll see that most subs that are designed for a size range will all carry about the same frequency slopes in the same box...change the box, change the output. All else being equal, what you like or dislike is usually your enclosure design.

Otherwise, I highly suggest you give your SD 3 another shot, if it's still not what you want, the sub choice itself won't matter much, you'll likely have to go ported which means you'll probably want 8 inch unless you can get enough internal space to make the frequency response flatter.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I'm using a focal solid one right now, I can get amps no problem. I think I may have had the sd3 in too large of a box? Different car, different set up


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

omnibus said:


> ...You're best bet is to look into the ported versions for 8 inch. I highly recommend checking into this Alpine to see if it'll fit or of course just get the Type R and make your own box...great for smaller ported boxes. Sealed subs will fall off quickly in the lower frequency ranges giving you a higher peak in the 60-100 hz range which isn't desirable imo. .8ft3 for a 10 ...any capable 10 probably isn't what you'll want if the Sd3 didn't do it.


I'm a big fan of the type R 8s, run a pair up front in small sealed boxes and previously ran one ported in the recommended enclosure in the rear passenger foot well.

I ran the type R 8 and a type S 10 through winisd pro, both basically in the same size box (20L for the sealed 10, 16L @ 32Hz for the ported 8) and performance is basically identical, except the ported 8 nose dives below tuning frequency where the sealed 10 keeps going with a much shallower roll off. The 10 is about 8dB stronger at 20Hz. 

The 8 needs a 2nd order high pass about 1-2Hz below tuning frequency to prevent over excursion and the 10 needs a little LT boost to get to xmax. 2nd order low pass on the 10 at 55Hz stops it peaking real hard up high and 2nd order 80Hz HP on the ported 8 both roll off about exactly the same.

Of course the 10 needed more power to do it, and more still might be better but power is the easy part. I guess when it comes to small boxes, I would prefer a mid sized sealed sub to a smaller ported sub any day of the week.

OP, do you still have that sd3? Can't hurt to try it


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

@ninetysix. The sd3 is long gone, I might grab another when sundown has a Yardsale. I've got tons of gear that I need to move. I really don't wanna buy a bunch of 10's to have them sitting to. I'll have the box finished soon and hopefully pick a sub. Ported is not really an option as I can't load the port of anything and port length and area are an issue.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Sealed it is then. Can't go wrong with the JL 10TW3  even if you can just fit a non shallow sub, you could counter sink a shallow sub which would let it breathe that little bit better, especially if it's facing up under a seat, ditto for down firing


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I was actually considering the tw1, as the cutout size is normal. If I do a tw3 and don't like it I'm screwed as the size is bigger


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

You've established you only want to buy once, well there's a very good chance that perhaps no 10 will loosen your fillings, and that a TW3 might pound noticeably harder than a TW1. Lower Fs, higher power handling, 4mm more xmax, considerably more surface area with similar sensitivity. The only advantages the TW1 would seem to have is price (obviously) or if you had a box less than half the size of the box you're building, or had even less power than you already do. And that last one is a maybe.

Yeah it's a little over half an inch wider than most 10s, but better to make it too wide than too narrow. If somehow it doesn't work out and you want to fit a standard size 10 you could make up an adaptor ring out of sheet metal that would have a negligible effect on how high the sub sits


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I've thought about the sheet metal option, I've got access to a cnc plasma cutter!


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

Timhof13 said:


> I wish I could fit a 12, not gonna happen. The tranny hump is fricken huge in the truck


The SWR-T12 is very happy in 0.8^3 ft. I had two under the rear seat of my Tundra.










I like it very much and I would love to test this against my SI BM-MKIV. I'll get to it...


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

fcarpio said:


> The SWR-T12 is very happy in 0.8^3 ft. I had two under the rear seat of my Tundra.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The alpine shallow R is easily the pick of the litter, expensive though


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

It's not the depth it's the width from front to back that will inhibit a 12 from working. Remember it's not a crew cab.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

...so can you fit a 10? What are the exact dimensions of the box you're building?

Edit: sorry didn't realise he was talking about the swr-t12. I was referring to the 10, which seems to be just about the best shallow 10 on the market. I haven't heard one, but going by the specs on paper and my experience with many other alpine subs, I'd say it's ball tearingly good


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Yes a ten is ready to go, the hole is cut and I am glassing. If I get the alpine I've got to move some of my old gear. I've got way to much laying around to drop that kinda cash on a 10


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

These come in 10" as well.


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

Timhof13 said:


> Yes a ten is ready to go, the hole is cut and I am glassing. If I get the alpine I've got to move some of my old gear. I've got way to much laying around to drop that kinda cash on a 10


Look around, they can be had for a lot less than you think.


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## juiceweazel (Jul 28, 2014)

Timhof13 said:


> I was actually considering the tw1, as the cutout size is normal. If I do a tw3 and don't like it I'm screwed as the size is bigger


I have the 10tw3 & am happy with it for what it is. Unfortunately I need more & am looking for 2 regular 10s now. The cutout is slightly larger then a regular 10w3 though.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Still looking for options


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Dude you've been given so many options in this thread and the other. You're going to have to get a lot more specific about your requirements (exact dimensions, dollars, listening habits to name just a few) to have any chance of a break through


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## fast4door (Aug 2, 2012)

I really like the Sundown SD 3-10 depth is 4.75 I will most likely do 2 of these or 2 of their 12's if I had shallow space


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

ninetysix said:


> Dude you've been given so many options in this thread and the other. You're going to have to get a lot more specific about your requirements (exact dimensions, dollars, listening habits to name just a few) to have any chance of a break through



If it makes you feel any better I've been reading through and I'm VERY tempted in using a slim 10 from alpine now 

Your efforts aren't completely lost on him!

Op, fyi...those helix subs in the classifieds are slim and might fill your void/need. Personally, I think the Alpine's do it.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> Dude you've been given so many options in this thread and the other. You're going to have to get a lot more specific about your requirements (exact dimensions, dollars, listening habits to name just a few) to have any chance of a break through


I get it, I won't lie Im scared away by mainstream subs a little. This situation really pisses me off to be honest. I've always driven suv's with endless options. If that type r thin didn't cost so much I'd already get it. I'm really looking for first hand experience with subs in a downfire configuration in a truck

I am looking into those helix subs , wondering if it has limited output. Helix is sq company correct?


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

I have a pair of Alpines in the classifieds.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Timhof13 said:


> I get it, I won't lie Im scared away by mainstream subs a little. This situation really pisses me off to be honest. I've always driven suv's with endless options. If that type r thin didn't cost so much I'd already get it. I'm really looking for first hand experience with subs in a downfire configuration in a truck
> 
> I am looking into those helix subs , wondering if it has limited output. Helix is sq company correct?


See, this of the first you've even mentioned that it's a down firing box, you really gotta spill the beans... Pics or a diagram would help others help you.

Does that mean the TW3 is too expensive then? The specs are almost identical, as is the modeling

I saw the helix and it looks ok at first glance, though I'm not too familiar with their gear.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

I800C0LLECT said:


> If it makes you feel any better I've been reading through and I'm VERY tempted in using a slim 10 from alpine now
> 
> Your efforts aren't completely lost on him!
> 
> Op, fyi...those helix subs in the classifieds are slim and might fill your void/need. Personally, I think the Alpine's do it.


Haha, no worries hope it works out for ya.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> See, this of the first you've even mentioned that it's a down firing box, you really gotta spill the beans... Pics or a diagram would help others help you.
> 
> Does that mean the TW3 is too expensive then? The specs are almost identical, as is the modeling
> 
> I saw the helix and it looks ok at first glance, though I'm not too familiar with their gear.


Obviously the cheaper the better, I only have this truck for 20 more months. Thin subs are really not a hot ticket and I'd only use one if I had too. The tw3 is my first choice, the cutout is really a bummer.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Then use a regular sub for about half the price and probably better performance, easy!


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## omnibus (Feb 20, 2015)

ninetysix said:


> The alpine shallow R is easily the pick of the litter, expensive though


Are they still $600? I'd love to hear one, curious how good they really are compared to anything else. I'll probably end up going the shallow sub route one day, I'm getting more space and concealed conscious as I age.

However the new Pioneer underseat sub I got just doesn't cut the mustard, more of a mid bass than a sub. There are just so many on the market now but I bet they all sound roughly the same.



Timhof13 said:


> I get it, I won't lie Im scared away by mainstream subs a little. This situation really pisses me off to be honest. I've always driven suv's with endless options. If that type r thin didn't cost so much I'd already get it. I'm really looking for first hand experience with subs in a downfire configuration in a truck
> 
> I am looking into those helix subs , wondering if it has limited output. Helix is sq company correct?


I think they are owned by Brax, which I would probably consider more uber high end? I think Helix is supposed to be their regular high end line but someone here probably knows more about them than me. Never heard one myself.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

omnibus said:


> Are they still $600? I'd love to hear one, curious how good they really are compared to anything else. I'll probably end up going the shallow sub route one day, I'm getting more space and concealed conscious as I age.
> 
> However the new Pioneer underseat sub I got just doesn't cut the mustard, more of a mid bass than a sub. There are just so many on the market now but I bet they all sound roughly the same.
> 
> ...


I can see the SWR-T10 on Amazon for $308 new shipped


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## xconcepts (May 17, 2011)

Bro I've got a Phase Linear Aliante 10 and 12 that would be perfect.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

xconcepts said:


> Bro I've got a Phase Linear Aliante 10 and 12 that would be perfect.


pm me about them


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hmm..spit-balling here but Kappa 100.9W MAYBE if the depth clears (it would be quite-close), the SWR-T10 which you already knew about, Skar VD, the older SD-2, for instance.

But back to ported subs, The port-loading thing didn't make any sense to me at all. You can easily just put the port vent where it can breathe downward, or forward, and you're fine.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

fourthmeal said:


> Hmm..spit-balling here but Kappa 100.9W MAYBE if the depth clears (it would be quite-close), the SWR-T10 which you already knew about, Skar VD, the older SD-2, for instance.
> 
> But back to ported subs, The port-loading thing didn't make any sense to me at all. You can easily just put the port vent where it can breathe downward, or forward, and you're fine.


I was told by many designers that you needed to port to load of the door side. I'll never get the length going down or front, I'd rather have a sealed box than a crappy sounding ported one.


I was thinking about the star vd, do you have experience?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Timhof13 said:


> I was told by many designers that you needed to port to load of the door side. I'll never get the length going down or front, I'd rather have a sealed box than a crappy sounding ported one.
> 
> 
> I was thinking about the star vd, do you have experience?


I've not used the Skar before. I'd most likely use the SD3 if in your shoes. In fact, I was in your shoes for a friend's Tundra extended cab build, and I chose the SD3 in a sealed downfire setup with excellent results. I put 550W of Arc power on it, and there's nothing it can't do for a basic single 10" sub. 

On the issue of port loading, I say don't worry much about where the port will go, as long as the port can be sized properly in the build. Example, a slot-loaded port that snakes around the box and ends up firing downward (with some space to clear of course) should be sweet. So would a side-port if you wanted to do that. It really doesn't matter in most cases, in a truck. You'll of course want to avoid chuffing at all costs so in my head, I see a highly flared "aero-port" and maybe one of those dimpled ones. Then snake with pvc/abs elbows or whatever it takes. 

But sealed is fine too.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

I might have already asked before, but what are the dimensions of the box your building? It's going under the rear seats on one side of the tail shaft hump right?

Could you not then run an external aero port out the side or top, over the hump and back in a U-shape, maybe even going back into the box and then coming out the front with a flare? A 10TW1 recommends about .65net with a 3" port (7"²) about 20" long, the alpine truck sub springs to mind too. Even a pair of tang band neo 6.5 subs models quite well (I just ordered 2 of them for the Mrs car) and if you have enough side to side space then 3 of them staggered would be great too. A 3.5" port would be safer to avoid chuffing, though it will be pretty long but if there's space on the other side of the hump it could work out.

As long as the port is mostly external to the box that should be doable and you should get a better result from a cheaper sub because xmax isn't as vital for output as it is with sealed.

I don't think it matters which way the port is facing, as long as it has about a diameter of clearance in front of it. If the box is under the rear seats I would port it towards the front of the car regardless.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I will post a pic of the box soon, I was sick of heating my garage up so I have a local guy building up the glass , I may be able to run a port out the back of the box and run it along the rear of the truck. The end of the box where the hump is, is to narrow for a port


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

> Even a pair of tang band neo 6.5 subs models quite well (I just ordered 2 of them for the Mrs car) and if you have enough side to side space then 3 of them staggered would be great too. A 3.5" port would be safer to avoid chuffing, though it will be pretty long but if there's space on the other side of the hump it could work out.


Some of you might remember my ported 4 x 6.5" tangband setup I had a few builds (and years) ago. I can tell you those subs were "OK" to "pretty good", but the whole setup was very power hungry and it ran out of steam on the low end too soon. It sure got loud as heck above the 35-40 Hz region. I tuned that box w/ a pair of slot ports (which doubled as part of the box bracing) to about 35hz. If I were doing it again, I'd tune lower (I listen to a lot of EDM which dig very deep.)


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Some of you might remember my ported 4 x 6.5" tangband setup I had a few builds (and years) ago. I can tell you those subs were "OK" to "pretty good", but the whole setup was very power hungry and it ran out of steam on the low end too soon. It sure got loud as heck above the 35-40 Hz region. I tuned that box w/ a pair of slot ports (which doubled as part of the box bracing) to about 35hz. If I were doing it again, I'd tune lower (I listen to a lot of EDM which dig very deep.)


I must admit, I was a little bit suspicious when winisd pro showed the two 6.5 subs modeled almost identical to a single 10 (alpine swt-10-2). Going to 3 and even 4 of the 6.5s (if you ask me, they are really a 7") only boosted the high end. The JL 10TW1 was a little down on both, but the surface area on that is tiny, more like a 9" with the Fs of an 8" 

I had all setups tuned to about 32hz in 20L with a 9cm port which was around a meter long, and hpf to limit excursion.

Basically any reasonably priced 10 I modeled was at least 6dB down at 30Hz, maybe more but either way there was a helluva lot more output than even a slim line alpine type R sealed which needed more power and a lot more money.


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## washesp (Jan 11, 2016)

Rocksford ultra shallow 10in shallow sub
Not much peak power but with money saving in mind this isn't bad for 50 bucks.

It really depends on the amp and box size


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> Sealed it is then. Can't go wrong with the JL 10TW3  even if you can just fit a non shallow sub, you could counter sink a shallow sub which would let it breathe that little bit better, especially if it's facing up under a seat, ditto for down firing


How do you think the infinity or polk Db 10 compare to like a type S. My goal right now is to fit a type R but I am looking at back up plans. Those both appear to be small box friendly. The Dayton HO is another option.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Timhof13 said:


> How do you think the infinity or polk Db 10 compare to like a type S. My goal right now is to fit a type R but I am looking at back up plans. Those both appear to be small box friendly. The Dayton HO is another option.




But the SD3 should smoke all of those.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Timhof13 said:


> How do you think the infinity or polk Db 10 compare to like a type S. My goal right now is to fit a type R but I am looking at back up plans. Those both appear to be small box friendly. The Dayton HO is another option.


Do you mean the shallow R or regular R? The type S might be at the bottom of that pile along with the Polk I would suggest. The non-shallow type R is easily at the top of the pile, though you'll need 1000w to get there if sealed. The SD3 and shallow R are pretty pretty good too, and not quite so power hungry.

Ported, the Dayton looks great, don't know about infinity.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I'm finishing up the glass on the box right now, I can only get about 6.5" of depth. That is with glassing the bump out on the back. I will post a picture soon, will a type r work in this box. I am concerned about the rear venting. Box volume is about .68 before sub, I will probably add some polyfil if necessary. I should have 1.5 of front clearence for the subwoofer. (Downfiring). Please advise, if the type r won't work, what next. Would like to stay under 150.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Timhof13 said:


> I'm finishing up the glass on the box right now, I can only get about 6.5" of depth. That is with glassing the bump out on the back. I will post a picture soon, will a type r work in this box. I am concerned about the rear venting. Box volume is about .68 before sub, I will probably add some polyfil if necessary. I should have 1.5 of front clearence for the subwoofer. (Downfiring). Please advise, if the type r won't work, what next. Would like to stay under 150.


6.5" of mounting depth? That's a lot. Alpine subs don't really need any clearance to the vent, but make sure there's no stuffing pushing against it.

The regular type R will work, but would be wasted with only 500w. That's half it's rated power. It looks pretty good with about 900w. Big power and big xmax are the only way you will get good output from a small sealed sub, and really you'll want a DSP to get the most out of it/tame it.

Otherwise all the other subs previously mentioned in the under $150 price range will work with the amp you already have.

The cheaper and maybe safer option is a ported 8, even with a fully internal port, about 3" x 20". Tang band W8-1363SBF springs to mind, or maybe the Alpine 8 but not sure of the pricing on that.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> 6.5" of mounting depth? That's a lot. Alpine subs don't really need any clearance to the vent, but make sure there's no stuffing pushing against it.
> 
> The regular type R will work, but would be wasted with only 500w. That's half it's rated power. It looks pretty good with about 900w. Big power and big xmax are the only way you will get good output from a small sealed sub, and really you'll want a DSP to get the most out of it/tame it.
> 
> ...


I can get the 1000 watts or so, but I have no intent on adding a dsp. I only have about 18 months left in this truck. I already have the box cut out for a 10, so that will be the easiest. Porting this box makes my head hurt, I'd have to move the amp to accomplish as an external is the only option.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Then the type R 10 is really hard to beat, and pretty close to your budget.

Definitely stuff the box, perhaps heavily. You might have to add or remove to taste. Going by winisd pro you might slightly exceed 20mm xmax by about 23Hz (if you listen to anything that low that is) so maybe try some test tones and get the levels right. About 40-45hz it could use a little boost so maybe the bass boost knob could help if your amp has one. Use it sparingly tho and verify it's not bottoming out or sounding like ass with test tones.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

I never listen to music that goes into the 20's, mostly country and old hip hop. Kinda odd I know. New hip hop is a joke!


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

If you set the gains by ear you'll be fine :thumbsup:


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Well I installed the type r and was not impressed. I installed a cheap pioneer 10 and it sounded pretty damn good. I'm thinking that the type r is too underpowered. At this point I may just just a cheapish 10 and call it a day


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

All the modeling I've done with my type R 12 vs say a type S 12 or any other cheaper sub with less xmax show that with 500w the type R is being out performed. But give them their rated power and it's a different story.

The fact is the type R subs have low sensitivity, around 3dB less than the type S for the 10" versions. That's pretty typical of subs with large xmax and power handling.

I just ran the type S against the type R in winisd both in 17L sealed with 500w and the type S is eating the type R alive, equal up to 35Hz then the S is 1dB up at 50, 2dB at 60, 3dB at 80. Give the type R 1000w and now they are equal at 80hz, then the type R is 1dB up at 60, 2dB at 50 nearly 3 at 40 and just over 3dB at 30Hz. 


If you're happy with the cheap sub, awesome, but don't sell the R just yet... You might get the itch that only more power can fix 

Where's the pics bro?


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## DonJulio (Feb 21, 2016)

Supercrewsound is building me a bare box with 2 IDMAX 10's for my 2016 
High Country. 

It will be finished by Brent Davison at Sculpt Garage. 
He is possibly one of the best in Texas at custom interior so
Either we will raise the seat or he is going to build a custom rear seat.

We are going with:
Audison Voce Uno and a pair of Voce Quattros and a bit 1
The 2 sets of the new ES 165 Focals in the front and rear
Morel Elate MW 5 - 5.25 
I will do a build log.

We are also doing my wifes 2016 Tahoe with 
Focal Flax/Mosconi and i will do a separate log when we get goin on it.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> All the modeling I've done with my type R 12 vs say a type S 12 or any other cheaper sub with less xmax show that with 500w the type R is being out performed. But give them their rated power and it's a different story.
> 
> The fact is the type R subs have low sensitivity, around 3dB less than the type S for the 10" versions. That's pretty typical of subs with large xmax and power handling.
> 
> ...


I'll get some pics, this is a 10 not a 12. I'm sure results are similar. I just need some decent output. I may audition some cheaper 10's, I'm keeping the pair of r"s for now


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Timhof13 said:


> I'll get some pics, this is a 10 not a 12. I'm sure results are similar. I just need some decent output. I may audition some cheaper 10's, I'm keeping the pair of r"s for now


Just to clarify, the numbers at the end of my last post were for the 10" versions, but yeah very similar differences with the 12"

If you were only ever planning for one sub then the type R was probably one of the better candidates, but if you're doing two then absolutely go with cheaper more sensitive subs with not so crazy xmax.


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## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

There is a guy here selling 2 alto Falstaff 8" subs they are about 10mm deeper than a traditional 6" midbass driver - they handle 400rms and has a FS of 37hz they work optimally in a 6lt sealed enclosure those would be the best you will ever get.... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## strohw (Jan 27, 2016)

Elektra said:


> There is a guy here selling 2 alto Falstaff 8" subs they are about 10mm deeper than a traditional 6" midbass driver - they handle 400rms and has a FS of 37hz they work optimally in a 6lt sealed enclosure those would be the best you will ever get....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That sub doesn't look like a sub at all. I'd call it a woofer with a xmax of 3.5mm and very low sensitivity as well. It may have a huge VC but with under 4mm of xmax it will reach full excursion on regular music with less than 50 watts.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

I think "best you'll ever get" is a touch optimistic.


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## strohw (Jan 27, 2016)

BTW, is this a Bose or a Non Bose system?


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

ninetysix said:


> Just to clarify, the numbers at the end of my last post were for the 10" versions, but yeah very similar differences with the 12"
> 
> If you were only ever planning for one sub then the type R was probably one of the better candidates, but if you're doing two then absolutely go with cheaper more sensitive subs with not so crazy xmax.


This is a single 10 setup, I may throw some power to the type r and see what she can do. Not sure how much power I can run on 4 guage and stock alt.


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## ninetysix (Dec 6, 2009)

Timhof13 said:


> This is a single 10 setup, I may throw some power to the type r and see what she can do. Not sure how much power I can run on 4 guage and stock alt.


Your car should already have a pretty decent alternator on it, looks like they start at 135A. If your amps are under the front seats and all class D then 4awg should do the trick. If it's not getting warm or dropping more than half a volt, you're good. Otherwise a second run of 4awg won't set you back much coin.


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## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

We are talking a normal space under a seat right? The Falstaff subs are a bit misleading in terms of specs - I tried a 10" in a 10lt sealed box once and even though it's specs don't say much the sub performed surprisingly well very comparable to my sub I had in the boot already which was a Morel Ultimo 12... Ok the very low end was not the same but for what it is it was very good for under seat applications it will be tough to find a driver firstly that can fit and secondly can handle that amount of power and thirdly operate "optimally" in such a small enclosure. A 10" slim sub will still require at least 15-20lts to be running optimally sure it can work in a small box but it won't sound as good as it should in a box that is 2/3rds too small that's when a sub like the Alto will probably be a better bet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jaegearman (May 30, 2016)

I've been reading this thread and I have a 2016 Toyota Tundra Double Cab. My system using the stock head unit non Jbl. I have and Audio Control LCQ-1, 2 pairs of Boston Acoustics PROSE 6.5 components powered by an A/D/S PQ 20. I have a brand new Boston Acoustics GT-28 that I have never used. I will use that to power 2 10 inch subs. Here is where I need help is finding 2 subs that are not to deep for sealed enclosure. The subs I'm considering are sundown sd3, Morel primo 10 4, skar vd3, and or go old school with Boston acoustics Pro 10.4. This setup would have to fit under my rear seat facing up preferably (grills on of course). I can raise the seat about an inch safely with spacers and longer bolts. I prefer to buy a prebuilt box as I don't have all the tools and time to build myself


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## Jaegearman (May 30, 2016)

Also SQ is priority 1. But I do want some slam too


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Try the Dayton LS10's from parts express. I have 2 under the rear seats of my truck and they sound awesome. 

Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk


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## Jaegearman (May 30, 2016)

Do you have a tundra? Did you make or buy an enclosure? I'm thinking the ground shaker tundra enclosure may work


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## Jaegearman (May 30, 2016)

beerdrnkr said:


> Try the Dayton LS10's from parts express. I have 2 under the rear seats of my truck and they sound awesome.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk


Parts express is out of stock


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## DonJulio (Feb 21, 2016)

I have owned 3 Chevrolet Crew cab trucks and all three had under seat speaker enclosures with Alpines or JL's.
This time Brent at Sculpt Garage was handed the task of installing 3 10" IDMAX
subs. He is an artisr with interior work and a fine installer. Here is the solution he came up with in the attachments. It is so stealth and appears to be an exact copy of the front center console that no one knows they have their ARM on all that BOOM. It sounds magnificent.


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## bmh727 (Aug 2, 2016)

Timhof13 said:


> Well I installed the type r and was not impressed. I installed a cheap pioneer 10 and it sounded pretty damn good. I'm thinking that the type r is too underpowered. At this point I may just just a cheapish 10 and call it a day


I recently heard one of those shallow Pioneer's (12") and was shocked at how good it sounded. It wasn't in an under seat application though.


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## lurch (Jan 20, 2014)

DonJulio said:


> I have owned 3 Chevrolet Crew cab trucks and all three had under seat speaker enclosures with Alpines or JL's.
> This time Brent at Sculpt Garage was handed the task of installing 3 10" IDMAX
> subs. He is an artisr with interior work and a fine installer. Here is the solution he came up with in the attachments. It is so stealth and appears to be an exact copy of the front center console that no one knows they have their ARM on all that BOOM. It sounds magnificent.


is that an UNO under the seat ?


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