# 2 Diamond Audio TdX 15s-Verification



## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

Alright  been sitting with a sealed enclosure for FOREVER it seems. I ran a single in my last maxima and was more than pleased...so i figure WHY NOT TWO ...

Just want to run the specs by you all to see if everything seems kosher prior to my final cuts. The subs are in a fiberglass bottomed semi false floor  a straight floor netted me just at 3.5 cubes. Im upping it 1.5 cubes for just over five cubes and it will be just a ways away from the factory specs...Didnt seem like enough port area as last time i went 2 19 inch 4 inch arerop ports. 
This time im looking to go with a slot through the factory bose sub opening.

in looking for a tune of 32 hz my math gives me 
5.1cubes
6inchx7inchx16.6inches
Looking for something to keep up with my three ways in the front but still be able to performclean and lowd...Thanks...ts an abnormal shaped enclosure so i just included the net volume...>Thanks for any replies..
SFC D.


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

I would venture a guess that you should have a larger port for 2 15" subs. The rule is 12-16 sq inches of area PER cubic foot. IT WILL TAKE AWAY SOME INTERNAL VOLUME BUT A LARGER PORT WILL CAUSE LESS PORT NOISE.


Sorry about the caps. Lock was on.


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## filtor1 (Apr 24, 2008)

cant.get.ryte said:


> Alright  been sitting with a sealed enclosure for FOREVER it seems. I ran a single in my last maxima and was more than pleased...so i figure WHY NOT TWO ...
> 
> Just want to run the specs by you all to see if everything seems kosher prior to my final cuts. The subs are in a fiberglass bottomed semi false floor  a straight floor netted me just at 3.5 cubes. Im upping it 1.5 cubes for just over five cubes and it will be just a ways away from the factory specs...Didnt seem like enough port area as last time i went 2 19 inch 4 inch arerop ports.
> This time im looking to go with a slot through the factory bose sub opening.
> ...


Hey bro, good to see you back in the experimenting stages.  Have you ever thought about using aeros? To save space, you know how our cars are, I am using less than half the internal volume in my box for ports with the 2 4" aero ports from Precision Ports. They can allow for either a smaller box or more internal volume for the drivers. I like the idea of porting through the rear deck too. If at all possible, see if you can fire the 15"s through the ski pass as well. I had a plan to do just that, but the Havoc 15"s would have taken up the entire trunk. So I settled back with the 12"s. They are more than loud enough for me.  Dual 6" aero's would look amazing coming up through the rear deck btw.

Chris


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

cubdenno said:


> I would venture a guess that you should have a larger port for 2 15" subs. The rule is 12-16 sq inches of area PER cubic foot. IT WILL TAKE AWAY SOME INTERNAL VOLUME BUT A LARGER PORT WILL CAUSE LESS PORT NOISE.
> 
> 
> Sorry about the caps. Lock was on.


Its cool. and what up chris?  yeah bro...trying it prior to deployment lol..had some spare wood and felt froggy. had them in a sealed floor and just...well you know the rest...thought about the aeroports again..the idea of four to get enough venting was what deterred e...length was obnoxious in comparison to the square port.

I thought it was low as well...the gentleman at diamond was adamant that indeed it was 5.1 common chamber with 40sq in of port 17 inches in length....the port is all external to the enclosure as it runs from the top of the false floor up through the rear deck. I ran a single tdx with 2 4x22 or so ports previously and was pleased with the result... common sense would say double the specs...problem is we dont have rear speakers and before i go chopping the rear deck id like to TRY a slot/square port if possible as i can use the stock hole lol...


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## filtor1 (Apr 24, 2008)

cant.get.ryte said:


> Its cool. and what up chris?  yeah bro...trying it prior to deployment lol..had some spare wood and felt froggy. had them in a sealed floor and just...well you know the rest...thought about the aeroports again..the idea of four to get enough venting was what deterred e...length was obnoxious in comparison to the square port.
> 
> I thought it was low as well...the gentleman at diamond was adamant that indeed it was 5.1 common chamber with 40sq in of port 17 inches in length....the port is all external to the enclosure as it runs from the top of the false floor up through the rear deck. I ran a single tdx with 2 4x22 or so ports previously and was pleased with the result... common sense would say double the specs...problem is we dont have rear speakers and before i go chopping the rear deck id like to TRY a slot/square port if possible as i can use the stock hole lol...


Sounds good. What ever you are comfortable with.  I used the port length calculator from PSP's web site just for fun. This is what I cam up with with respect to your 5cf box. Link: Welcome to Precision Sound Products!

At 5cf, 32Hz, and 1 6" port. The port length would only be 11.49"
" , 1 4" port. " 4.69"
" , 2 4" ports. " 11.30"

I don't think you would need 4 ports. 2 4" or a single 6" would be the min I would use though. I still say 2 6'ers. 

All of these are shorter than your slot port.  Thus they will take up less space. I am in no way hung on PSP ports, so don't take it that way. I am going to experiment with them in my new box as I have read some information about the internal cf space savings and higher flow rates when using the Precision Ports.

I am confident that the slot port will work just fine. It will prevent cutting any holes like you indicated. From my experience it has always turned out better, in terms of output, to have the port on the same plain as the subs. I admit this could have been a product of the type of cars they were in, the exception being an explorer (subs up and ports back), but it it worth asking some people with more experience and that have built successful boxes for a variety of cars. Just something to keep in mind.

I look forward to seeing the finished product.


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

See i didnt figure one port would be enough so i jumped it up to two ports lol...it was obnoxious lol 
Straight Length Port required	25.38
Flare Length Port required	26.38

ill finish up the mock up and if it sounds cool ill start the fiberglass top lol ...matter of fact...i got a better idea lol...ill be changing it up over the four day  ill update the pics this weekend lol...


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

gonna work on forward firing the 15s and a single six inch through the woofer hole ...ill see how placement goes this weekend lol.


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## filtor1 (Apr 24, 2008)

cant.get.ryte said:


> gonna work on forward firing the 15s and a single six inch through the woofer hole ...ill see how placement goes this weekend lol.


Awesome!!!! Now your talking. I bet this is going to be fun.  Just imagine, no more annoying trunk rattles. Woo hoo!


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## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

Looks good on 20 cube @ 15hz


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## D_ALPINE_M (Jan 22, 2009)

cant-get-ryte what were the dimensions for the single 15 you had ran prior. Sorry to be off topic but I am torn between a sealed box and a slot ported design. Please if you don't mind some input would be great.

Thanks,
Jay


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## MCarmer (Apr 6, 2009)

bahhh why is it that everytime i find an interesting thread its never finished and i never get to see results in it?

What happened? wheres the pics at? Does it sound good? is it louder than what you had? Did you go with putting the aero ports through the rear deck stock speaker holes? what kinda car is it? Did you seal around the ports so the only air traveling through the rear deck was through the aero ports?

I'm looking at aiming the sub forward, sealing it off from the trunk from the face of the box back, and putting aero ports through the top of the box aiming into my rear deck stock speaker holes if possible, if not then im cutting them to fit the aero ports through them.

Anyone know what kinda results ill yield with this? or does anyone know of anyone who has this current setup? 

all the search function has been doing all day is showing dead ended threads, i need closure so i can formulate more of a plan based on what im going to do, Im just hunting for some advice and maybe someone whos done this first though.

anyone?


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

MCarmer said:


> bahhh why is it that everytime i find an interesting thread its never finished and i never get to see results in it?
> 
> What happened? wheres the pics at? Does it sound good? is it louder than what you had? Did you go with putting the aero ports through the rear deck stock speaker holes? what kinda car is it? Did you seal around the ports so the only air traveling through the rear deck was through the aero ports?
> 
> ...


LOL im in the army and prepping for afghanistan in two months. just returned from one month of training. the setups that i have done in the new max and last max have consisted of
1-3.5 cube standard ported box firing backwards with the single tdx. Good results...want more. (Used in my 5th gen)

1-TC9 fifteen in a false floor with fitted vanity cover with 2 4 inch ports through the rear deck. UNGODLY in comparison to the standard box. This was in my fourth gen...i can try to find pics..i have them somewhere...sadly due to a plate in my ankle the manual was too much which caused me to trade to the current fifth gen auto i have.

Currently i have switched up to the two fifteen inch t1s (Cause i got them cheap lol).. The TDX Enclosure i completed was UGLY as hell, did it as a test enclosure with the subs firing up. Due to their depth the idea of them in a false floor setup was a huge challenge. Ported throuh the rear deck and in a trunk car, with the subs firing back it was a huge gain from the single 15 ported. HUGE. Problem is, it was ugly...needless to say  i will be starting the build again with the same fiberglass tub and working to fire them forward in this iteration . I got smart on the other, and using a slightly shorter sub, i can load them from the front now, so i will take pics this time  and will be starting work on it tommorrow night. hopefully forward firing, ported, and foamed in by tuesday when i go back to work.


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

and personally i was extremely satisfied with the TC9 in a false floor with just over 3.75 cubes, using aero ports through the rear speaker holes. Think they were 17 inches in length, hard to remember now...sorry...i just tear stuff up...get tired...tear it up again...but ive been lazy lately


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## MCarmer (Apr 6, 2009)

nice cant wait to see pictures of the install, and hear how you like the final product.

Best of luck over there, remember to keep your head down.


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## cant.get.ryte (Nov 26, 2005)

MCarmer
1-Did you go with putting the aero ports through the rear deck stock speaker holes?
A) In one setup (98) i used the two rear speaker holes. That was 1 15, but plenty lowd enough.
B)In the setup with the two fifteens it was a slot port through the rear deck. 7x5.5x16.75 using the square bose subwoofer hole

2-what kinda car is it? 
A)98 Nissan Maxima
B)03 Max

3-Did you seal around the ports so the only air traveling through the rear deck was through the aero ports?
A)The aeroports used were 4 inch. they were screwed to the rear deck, then i smeared liquid nail up to the lip of the port sealing it. The rear deck was hit with another layer of deadening mat after that.
B) That setup i just foamed around the port, the rear deck didnt receive any additional mat, but i used 2 inch foam between the rear cover and deckand wrapped the rear deck cover in black vinyl, with a hole cut out for the port to fire up into the rear window.

4-I'm looking at aiming the sub forward, sealing it off from the trunk from the face of the box back, and putting aero ports through the top of the box aiming into my rear deck stock speaker holes if possible, if not then im cutting them to fit the aero ports through them.
A)This is what im doing this time around.

5-Anyone know what kinda results ill yield with this? or does anyone know of anyone who has this current setup? 
A)Excellent results.


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## MCarmer (Apr 6, 2009)

I just got this car, sold my last truck minus some audio equipment. So i havent done anything to the car yet, im formulating a plan first then going through with it. i gotta get a HU first for this car thats priority 1. Clarion 785USB is my pick so far

I havent started on the box yet because im torn between using my Z2 amp or u Tru Hammer H1 per coil on the sub. The only thing with the Hammers is i would have to get the power supplies replaced, and through Tru Techs factory its like 225$ per amp, so Im debating if its worth going to two seperate amps to save a ton of trunk space over the DDZ2 mounted in there behind the box in the sealed off trunk environment with the batts.

I was thinking of running the Aero Ports out of the top of the box and through the stock speaker holes, not having the Aero ports hanging from the rear deck.
i know it would look goofy sticking out but i dont care, Id seal around the ports so the rest of the holes are covered well and wont have air escape through them, trying to direct the air out the front, and the port air out the top against the glass.

Doing this i believe that rear fill wil be useless, and rather than powering speakers off the rear deck trying to scream really loud to get over the sub im going to add some more speakers by installing kickpods and juicing those up.

Let me see some pics of your newest setup once your done, Im really curious to see it sealed off from the trunk environment and how its going to look and sound. Who needs a trunks right? Thats what you use the back seats for...


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

I owned a Tru SH-1 for a short time. Dear god the amount of juice required to get that thing hammering. So take that into account when deciding on class AB amps for massive power to your sub/s. I went to a Class D amp for subs just so I would not have to add a 500 amp alternator and 2.5 tons of batteries


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