# 2013 VW Golf TDI 4-door build



## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Hey all,

This post will detail the build of my TDI Golf 4-door. Nothing super fancy or flashy though. The HU may still get changed and I might change amps (I have WAY more power than I need) but the basic install is done. I am using the RCD-510 since it works well, has flat output (even if the output Voltage is either WAY too much or WAY too little) and has AMAZING BT. I used my VCDS and recoded it for Sound System which changes the output from speaker-level to line-level (RCA-level). The processor will take the full output at the speaker level setting and I might go back to that setting so I can turn the amp gains down. 

The connection at the battery. I used JL 2 gauge for the main run. This required cutting the original off and buying a new, longer bolt. I also used a lock washer and double-nutted it with a locking nut. I had to bend the ring terminal as well but that was easy.









The wire as it runs to the JL fuse holder. It can be finicky but it's very nice to be able to adjust the entry and exit angles.









How it drops beside the fuse holder cover.









And into the OEM grommet through one of the existing nipples.









With the flex loom installed.









From the inside of the entry point.









Hard to see but this is after it comes into the car and starts its run down the driver's side.









Down the kick panel area.









And entering the OEM wiring channel.









With the speaker wiring and signal cable. The JL speaker wire is 12 gauge for the midbass and 16 gauge for the tweeter. The copper-colored cable is Monster cable 16 gauge for signal from the HU to the processor. 









Down the channel by the b-pillar.









Following the OEM wiring into the backseat/hatch area.









How much room you have between the door and the door panel. I measured the OEM speaker in this shot. 









Maximum depth as long as your speaker's magnet doesn't hit the arms in the speaker mounting area.









Here the speaker is removed and you can see the arms that limit magnet width. I hadn't terminated the wiring here yet. 









1" adapters I made from two layers of .5" MDF coated in truck bedliner spray for weather proofing. Eventually I'll redo these in plastic.









The tweeter wiring as it exits the OEM grommet and follows the OEM wiring path. Also un-terminated.









To run it through you separate the two halves of the molex, pop the inner half out of the body and you can feed the wires UNDER the molex in a space that's there. You don't NEED to remove the inner half but I found that it's easier if you do, especially if you're running 12 gauge. MUCH easier than drilling out the molex.









With the inner half of the molex back in.









And the outer half reinstalled.









Everything back together. Yes, I know there's nothing to see. 









A shot from the inside.









As it exits the molex cavity.









The driver's side speaker wire. This was installed before the power wire so they're a little out of sequence. 









Down the channel, passing the b-pillar.









Between the b-pillar and rear seat area.









The passenger's side. Here you can see the bullet connectors I use. These make changes and swaps much easier in the future. 









The old school (circa 1995-ish) MB Quart QSD-216 set (speaker is the QWD160) midbass/midrange driver.









This is the Mosconi 6to8 DSP unit. EQ/XO/TA/Phase/Level/Polarity all in this one unit. It also generates the remote turn-on signal for the amps.









Closer shot.









How it's mounted. Simple, I know, but it's light and this is MORE than enough to hold it in place.









The Bluetooth module for wireless tuning from a laptop or BT windows tablet.









The 3 sets of JL Audio CLR-series RCAs for the output. I woul dhave used the BLU-series but they hadn't come out with the BLU y-adapters yet and I can't have my cables mismatched. It's an OCD thing.









As they go under the carpet. Later I cut the zip ties and laid them side-by-side to keep the carpet flatter. They were secured with duct tape. 









As they go up under the back seat.









On to the HU. I wrote this for the VW forum so I didn't cover the HU removal but simply it's popping off the trim panel and then four Torx screws and it's out. MUCH easier than the MkV was. Ok, first things first, having a pin-puller and buying some repair wires makes this SO much easier. 

























First, remove the tan plug from the housing. This is where your speaker output wires are.









This is the locking tab for the wiring pins.









Flip the plug over and use a small screwdriver to push that tab out. Be careful. Once it releases it'll basically fall out.









This is what it looks like once you pop it out from the bottom (If it didn't fall out).









Once it's out you insert the pin puller to pop out the speaker output wires. These wires colors and locations can be found online here: Volkswagen RCD 510 pin assignments | my-gti.com









This is what the end looks like when it's out and the repair wire. Insert your repair the same way the OEM wire came out.









All the repair wires inserted and connected to the wire that runs to the processor. Notice I labeled the OEM wires with the pin location and its function.









Reinsert the locking pin.









And press all the way down to lock it in.









OEM wires folded out of the way and everything tied up and neat.









The signal wires running under the dash. Then they meet up with the wires in the kick panel.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

And the JL Audio master ground lug installed. I flipped it over and inserted the longer side into the body to minimize how much it protrudes.









These are Nik's (uberstealth audio) amp racks. The HDs DO fit in here so you can REALLY pack a **** ton of power into the car in no space at all. Although, if the area where the OEM BT module was in was the same size as the driver's side they'd fit under the seats but you'd have to either move the BT module and go without BT or change the HU and remove it. These are the same height as the OEM foam so the floor is not raised at all. The spare tire tools are stored in the large storage areas in the rear of each rack.









This is the HD900/5. Its main channels are bridged to 150 Watts to each tweeter and 500 Watts goes to the sub. I dont know why the finish looks weird in the pics as they look fine in person. :iono:









And the HD600/4. This is bridged to the midbasses providing 300 Watts per driver. 









Power distribution is in the small front compartment on the driver's side rack. 









The sub enclosure is 7-layer marine-grade Birch plywood. I had Nik from uberstealth audio build this to my specs. I could have built this and the racks but after my divorce I don't have the tools or a place to do this anymore. Nik does great work so I enlisted him. This is the internal shot showing the additional bracing I asked for. It is 1.5cf sealed. 









After assembly was finished.









Dimensions.

































After it was delivers I stuffed it with 1 pound of polyfill, wired it with 12 gauge JL Audio speaker wire, and installed one of my old school Oz Audio 300L 12" subs. These are from 1995-1996 or so. It doesn't take up a ton of room and leaves me quite a bit of space. I can't take a road trip with 3 other people without removing it but for just me, it leaves all the space I need.









With the grill on. 









Last is the JL Audio remote gain control knob for the HD900/5's sub channel. The cable for this was run with the power and speaker wire on the driver's side.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I just realized I lost all of my tweeter install pics.  Nothing fancy though. Just removed the OEMs from the sail panels, siliconed the QTD25s in and reassembled.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

In the Touareg I did, I removed the speaker wire harness (tan plug) and replaced it with the similar plug from a Metra 71 series reverse harness, probably cheaper and easier to find vs. ordering the pins and tool...BUT, the connections were SO loose, that unless there was tension on the harness keeping the connection tight, it would cut out if the wires moved AT ALL.
I ended up removing that and use 4 .110" negative speaker terminals....all soldered and heat shrunk...they made a nice TIGHT connection and solved the problem.

Nice build. Very nice job on the box.

Jay


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

I always appreciate these stealth installs for daily drivers. Nicely done.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

JayinMI said:


> In the Touareg I did, I removed the speaker wire harness (tan plug) and replaced it with the similar plug from a Metra 71 series reverse harness, probably cheaper and easier to find vs. ordering the pins and tool...BUT, the connections were SO loose, that unless there was tension on the harness keeping the connection tight, it would cut out if the wires moved AT ALL.
> I ended up removing that and use 4 .110" negative speaker terminals....all soldered and heat shrunk...they made a nice TIGHT connection and solved the problem.
> 
> Nice build. Very nice job on the box.
> ...



The repair wires can be ordered at any VW parts counter. I can shoot you the part number if you want. Each repair wire has a pin on each end so you can use it for two wires. I used the VW tool since I got it from a friend in my VW club that works a VW parts counter but I'm pretty sure Schwaben makes a commercially available tool as well.


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## falstaff (May 22, 2012)

Looks good!


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## BettaJetta (Aug 24, 2009)

Nice Work Sound Quality!


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

Hows it sound?? love it...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It needs some tuning but not bad at all. I'm pretty sure the OEM HU has some volume-dependent EQ so a HU swap might be happening though.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

sweet dude 

i wish my wife had the rcd510 instead of the base model, but honestly it works fine and she does not care for anything crazy fancy.

the only thing that i found different really was that the power wire run. on the driver side there is an area under carpet that has that MLV layer bonded to the jute that has a cut out kind of shaped like a shield, and you just pull it out and behind it is an unused grommet about the size of your palm. it took me 5 minutes to run the wire to the battery through the firewall.

also, there is a suh-weet factory battery terminal - not on the battery itself but under the fuse\relay cover. if you upgrade the stock wire that goes from the battery to that box, there is an ANL type fuse block with a binding post you can steal from, and this hides all your wires and looks super snazzy.

i really like what was done with your subfloor. thats a cool idea - i just dont have the place or tools to make that. i mean i have a jigsaw and a router - but thats too much lol. maybe if somone with a CNC could make it for me then i would do it... but it looks awesome and i bet its super sturdy too.

that sub box looks awesome. that guy who built it is a pretty good carpenter!

overall nice job. i recommend trying the door speaker adapters i got in my build log and using a bunch of duct seal with them. the added dampening and the water-proof PVC is awesome!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yep, that's for cars with Tip or DSG. My 08 GTI was a DSG and that's where I ran the power. I still have that grommet and the waterproof grommet I put in it. 

I was going to use that terminal strip (I did that in my GTI too) but the 2 Gauge wouldn't fit under it. My Monster 4 gauge barely fit in the GTI.  It would have been cleaner that way. I'm going to revisit that part of the install with new terminals, upgraded cables, etc. and see if I can'y pretty it up some. I REALLY don't like the way it looks right now. 

Uber Stealth Audio Home Page. Nik did my racks and enclosure. Like you, I don't have the space or tools to do this. He does great work, has a CNC machine so I had him do it. It's money I didn't like spending because it's work I can do but sometimes you just can't. 

I'm planning on it. I don't think the adapters I made will die anytime soon or resonate much, if at all, but plastic is ALWAYS better in a door. It'll give me a reason to open the doors up again and deaden them. Just need to figure out how the regulator comes out and if I'll have to rivet them back in. The removable skins on the MkV was SO much easier to deal with.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

word! well that answers it all then huh?

look into the flat memphis wire. its about as thick as 4 guage but its like 3x wider


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## mr.metoo (Feb 20, 2010)

Great looking build


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## charliekwin (Apr 22, 2012)

Nice work. The doors especially and taking the time to repin the connectors.

I hope the irony of putting a big-ass "Uber Stealth Audio" sticker on the big box isn't lost on them!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

charliekwin said:


> Nice work. The doors especially and taking the time to repin the connectors.


Thanks. I was half tempted to do the doors like that too but didn't have the parts on hand so I went the easy way there. 



> I hope the irony of putting a big-ass "Uber Stealth Audio" sticker on the big box isn't lost on them!


Well he normally only does under floor stuff but I asked him to do this one. If I could find a sub that fit under the floor that I liked enough I'd put it under there and scrap the second amp.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

New HU as of today. BB had it on sale for less than eBay pricing so I had to pick it up! 

Also changed the sub and enclosure to a side mount loaded with an Arc Audio Arc10. I'll get pics up soon.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

Have any noise since you ran your power wire next to your speaker wire?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Running power wire next to RCAs or speaker wire won't induce noise.


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## BettaJetta (Aug 24, 2009)

Love the install. Which head unit are you using now?


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Very nice install!

Gotta ask why do you prefer plastic for speaker baffles?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Longevity.


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## mark620 (Dec 8, 2010)

I used those subs for a long time. Some of the best speakers I have ever owned. I wish that whole line would come back made the way they were back then.. So smooth with not much power. Nice install


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> Running power wire next to RCAs or speaker wire won't induce noise.


yes... yes it can. 

Inductance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

it would look something (kind of) like this.










im not saying it WILL or it WONT in any particular car or case - but referring to this particular case, high current 12v DC power for a car audio amplifier can generate an electromagnetic field in a 8~0 AWG wire that can effect a very small (less than 1v usually and very low amperage) signal output in an 18~30AWG RCA cable from a car audio reciever. basically i am just saying that putting any conductor of electricity next to another, it is totally plausable that the electromagnetic field generated by electrons traveling through conductor #1 will effect conductor #2. thats why faraday cages and shielding exist


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yet everyone forgets that the chassis conducts current...
I'm not saying inductance doesn't exist, that would be totally retarded, but if no one worries about the negative half why worry about the positive? I have NEVER had a car with induced noise and I always run power and RCAs together.


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## slyx620 (Dec 21, 2009)

Nice Build. In for the updated pics of the side mounted sub.


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## santiagodraco (Feb 9, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Yet everyone forgets that the chassis conducts current...
> I'm not saying inductance doesn't exist, that would be totally retarded, but if no one worries about the negative half why worry about the positive? I have NEVER had a car with induced noise and I always run power and RCAs together.


I could be wrong but I would say it's because the "negative" side of the run you are referring to, being the chassis, is not a single run of conductor of a specific size on which the electrons travel. Rather, it's spread across a large area so there's much less change, if any, of the negative side causing interference than the positive side.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Even over a large surface there is always a path of least resistance which the current will follow. It is also capable or radiating noise just like the power cable.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

this is also a truth.

im just saying that it is possible. 

i dont want to start an argument >_>


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Eh, it's something to discuss while I'm waiting on new gear for an update. 

I guess I should clarify. In theory, yes, running power next to signal COULD induce noise. My point was that everyone ignores the other half of the circuit, which can just as easily radiate noise, and only worry about the power lead. If someone is going to go to great lengths to isolate the signal from power they also need to isolate from ground or they're wasting their time. 

In 22+ years I have never had a car with noise caused by running power next to signal. Ever. So while I agree it's possible, it's NOT a big deal.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

quality_sound said:


> Eh, it's something to discuss while I'm waiting on new gear for an update.
> 
> I guess I should clarify. In theory, yes, running power next to signal COULD induce noise. My point was that everyone ignores the other half of the circuit, which can just as easily radiate noise, and only worry about the power lead. If someone is going to go to great lengths to isolate the signal from power they also need to isolate from ground or they're wasting their time.
> 
> In 22+ years I have never had a car with noise caused by running power next to signal. Ever. So while I agree it's possible, it's NOT a big deal.


This.

Everyone complains about how power wire induces noise, yet in reality, I've never come across ANYBODY who has had this problem.

Noise issues are almost always related to bad connections. Sometimes the connection is inside a component, other times it's not...this running power wire away from signal wires is a HUGE myth in car audio that everyone thinks is true, yet in reality nobody has actually come across. In my 20+ years of car audio installs I've always run my power and RCA together, and the only noise I've ever had was from a bad amp.

BTW...I like what you did in the subfloor...good use of space!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

New stuff.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Nice! So how do those copper tweeters sound? Can't wait for your review...
Congrats and hurry up and get them n stalled please....


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

They ARE in. 

The tweeters are WAY laid back but still have more detail than a soft done. It's really, for lack of a better word, weird. The QTD25 isn't quite as smooth out of the box but with tuning I think it might still be better. The mids on the other hand, are VERY similar. People say these have a ton of midbass. If these do them the Quarts are monsters. Maybe I I just haven't gotten on these enough or maybe it's the efficiency difference, but the Quart will keep adding meaningful output down to 40Hz (lowest I've tried them). The illusions will play that low but don't see to add anything below about 60Hz. The upper end of the mid's range range is a little cleaner on the illusions and you can cross them over lower since the tweeter is chambered. 
Then there is the efficiency difference, which is fairly noticeable to say the least. I haven't looked at the numbers but with 150 Watts per mid and 100 Watts on each tweeter (all active) I had to kick the mids down 4-6dB so they wouldn't overpower the tweeters. I had to kick the illusions back up to even and I might even try rolling the tweeters back a tad. Not that they're overpowering at all, but I want to see if I can get the midbass everyone's been telling me about. I think the Quart might actually have a bit more cone area. It definitely uses a larger cutout. 

Installation wise, the Quarts will. By a country mile. Illusion gives you the tallest angle mount EVER and that's it. To flush mount you simply drill a 43.5mm hole, which BTW, no one makes a hole saw that size, and insert the tweeter. Since no one makes the correct size hole saw you will either have to router some rings, cut a hole thats too small and carefully open it up to the right size, or go a hair too big and use an adhesive to hold it in. Quart gives you flush, angled flush, and surface mounts. The QTD25 also has a threaded hole on the back so you can mount that way or use plumbers tape and try many angles before you permanently install them. They use the spring bar behind the panel method to mount (it WAS the 90s after all) but it still works and works well. I was very disappointed with the mounting "options" provided on a set that retails for this much. 

To mount the mids illusion provides all the screws you'll need as well as washer so screws won't mar the face of the driver. Only issue is the screws are as close to the opening size you can get so if they're not perfectly centered the threads will catch on the inside of the mounting holes. It's not a big deal, it just bothers my OCD. Illusion also provides speed clips for the mid and tweeter and the xo. Everything is in separate labeled bags. The QWD160 has tons more mounting holes, includes a spacer with the grill (they don't have to be used together), and screws for metal, wood, and speed clips. The illusion mid uses spring terminals for wiring which barely accept a 12 gauge but it will go in with no stray strands with a little patience. Quart uses solder tabs and screw terminals identical to the crossover and a lot of amps so you can solder, use .25" female quick disconnects, crimp on forks, or even bare wire. The illusions are a hair over a half inch shallower than the QWD160 but have the motor up front to deal with. This shouldn't even be a concern for most people. Illusion provides no grills for the mid so you're on your own there. Considering the front motor this is an absolute fail, IMO.

I won't get into the crossovers too much since I don't plan on ever taking them out of the plastic. From appearances, it's well made, is bi-ampable (you must create your own jumpers if you don't bi-p, however), and has a lot of tweeter level control via jumpers. XO point is 2KHz, an it's an LR1 slope. It's about the same size as most aftermarket XOs and parts are seem to be high quality. The Q-series passive is one of the best I've ever seen. Very, very high quality parts, bi-ampable, includes gold-plated, copper jumpers for bi-amping/bi-wiring and tweeter level control (no internal jumpers), and my favorite feature is the aluminum chassis. Quart calls it "balanced temperature technology" and they arrange the parts on the chassis so that everything heats up evenly and dissipates heat quickly. This absolutely works. These are the only passives I've ever used that don't fall apart sonically when you dump a crap-ton of power into them. 

I know it seems like I'm complaining about the illusions. I kind of am. The Quarts are all about options. For everything. I know that relatively they do cost more than the illusions but there seems to be an extra level of attention and care from Quart. They make sure ANYONE can install their drivers, even their flagships, without needing to resort to a ton of custom work just to even install them, and still get fantastic results. Illusions seems to favor a shop install. 

Overall, however, I am happy with the change to the illusions. I'll get pics of my VERY temp install up today.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

so you still going to sell the quarts? LOL..
I would imagine the illusions need some break in time.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah. Overall I like the illusions a little better but if I could have heard them in my car first I might not have made the change. 

I'm not a believer in break in but we'll see. 

The illusions are prettier too.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

sounded like you were trying to talk yourself into liking the illusions. ive heard nothing but great things about them.
I swapped the woofers in a polk sr set because I damaged one. like you I have ocd so I swapped both with the exact same woofers and was like wtf? took a good month of break in before they were right..made me a believer


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Which Quart set you have again? QSD216? QSD216 Signature? or QSD216 Nano? 

Kelvin


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

jel847 said:


> sounded like you were trying to talk yourself into liking the illusions. ive heard nothing but great things about them.
> I swapped the woofers in a polk sr set because I damaged one. like you I have ocd so I swapped both with the exact same woofers and was like wtf? took a good month of break in before they were right..made me a believer


I really hope that they just need some time. Like I said, overall I do like them a bit better but I think they absolutely dropped the ball in the installation flexibility department. 



subwoofery said:


> Which Quart set you have again? QSD216? QSD216 Signature? or QSD216 Nano?
> 
> Kelvin


They're not the Signatures and I don't even know what the Nanos are. Are those post-buyout?
These are mine:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/146751-mb-quart-qsd-216-a.html


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> They're not the Signatures and I don't even know what the Nanos are. Are those post-buyout?
> These are mine:
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/146751-mb-quart-qsd-216-a.html


Just wanted to know  
QSD Signature here 
QSF 216 Nano here - post-buyout but good review nonetheless 

Kelvin


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

when you had the rcd510 installed, did you compare the high-level vs low-level output modes from the radio? if so, was there any improvement with the low-level setting?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I did. There was not, other than the high-level had significantly more output.


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

with the low level setting, did you find distortion would still start around 15-20 or did it move further up in the volume range?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It was harder to hear on that setting but it was still there. The RNSs might be better in that respect, but I HATE the RCDs.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

So how are you liking the illusion speakers?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I need to angle the tweeters but overall I like them. It's weird, they produce as much midbass as the Quarts but don't excite the resonances in the doors as much as the Quarts. I'm still going to deaden the piss out of the doors to get rid of what IS there anyway but I'd say it's an improvement overall.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> I need to angle the tweeters but overall I like them. It's weird, they produce as much midbass as the Quarts but don't excite the resonances in the doors as much as the Quarts. I'm still going to deaden the piss out of the doors to get rid of what IS there anyway but I'd say it's an improvement overall.


Stiffer basket maybe... 

Kelvin


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

No, the Quarts are easily as stiff. I think the Quarts have more in the 200-ish area but i haven't measured them yet to know for sure.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The color match is actually dead on. The floor mat is darker than the rest of the carpet in the hatch so it looks off. You can see the match with the back of the back seat in the first pic.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Game on!!!


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

quality_sound said:


> Game on!!!


woah...what's all that?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

StP sound deadening. :surprised::surprised:


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

holy crap


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

My doors resonate a LOT. I'm doing Bomb and 08 on the outer skin, Gold and 08 or 04 on the inner skin, Gold and 08 or 04 on the panel, Bomb and 08 under the back seat, hatch floor, and hatch sides, and the same treatment as the doors on the hatch door. 

The TDI is kinda loud. One of the prices you pay for having a car that gets 50MPG.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

My doors resonate a LOT. I'm doing Bomb and 08 on the outer skin, Gold and 08 or 04 on the inner skin, Gold and 08 or 04 on the panel, Bomb and 08 under the back seat, hatch floor, and hatch sides, and the same treatment as the doors on the hatch door. 

The TDI is kinda loud. One of the prices you pay for having a car that gets 50MPG.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

That sucks..I'm hoping to pick up a Jetta TDI in the next couple of months.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

You couldn't pay me to drive that POS. I test drive it because friends of mine said that the BQ of the Mexican-built cars were on par with the German-built cars. WRRRROOOOOOONNNNNNGGGGG.

If you want a sedan, buy the Passat.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

For real, huh? I haven't driven any yet; I haven't even put my current car up for sale. I was thinking that's what I would go for, but I'll reserve my final decision after a few test drives.

A Passat TDI would be good too though...I just need a sedan with a trunk. The bigger the trunk, the better.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The Passat is NIIIIIIICE and has a huge trunk with a bid ass spare tire well. I kinda wish I'd have gone that way. Plus the Passat TDI uses DEF instead of the regeneration system my Golf has which lowers my mileage by almost 6MPG.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks like you're heading right direction. Can't wait to hear it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Thanks Ricky! Hopefully I'll have the tweeters aimed by the June show as well. I won't have my Tile in the car but the StP stuff will still be a huge improvement.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Thanks Ricky! Hopefully I'll have the tweeters aimed by the June show as well. I won't have my Tile in the car but the StP stuff will still be a huge improvement.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

And it starts! Passenger side door panel with some StP Gold deadener to start with topped with BTP 5 Gold closed cell foam. Both of these are STUPID easy to work with. The deadener conforms easily even without heat and the BTP 5 cuts easily, has a great adhesive, and forms to shapes while being flexible so you don't HAVE to spend a ton of time cutting it to fit. 

I really like both of these. I'll report back after I get a chance to use the Bomb and the SPL 04 and 08 sound barriers. 

View attachment 31643

View attachment 31644


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Driver's door panel done:

















And since I never posted the installed pic of the illusions, here we go mom re doing the rings for the mids and the tweeters are going to be totally redone so they're on axis.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

That stuff molds nicely.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The deadener or the foam? the foam is VERY moldable. I wanted to try the BTP 10 but for the 5 and it should fit anywhere.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

The foam.


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## south east customz (Jan 17, 2011)

The deadener does also. It's 2.3mm thick and molds super easy!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I haven't needed to mold it too much yet but the pieces I have used have been easy to work with. I can't wait to try the bomb. So far I'm ecstatic with everything.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Did some work on the hatch door tonight. Added some StP Gold for resonance. I wanted to add some SPL 04 but with all the wiring it would have been a PITA so I'm just going to out some BTP 5 on top of some Gold on the panel and call it good. 

Before:

































After:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Finished up the hatch door panel tonight. 
I used SPL 04 on the larger panel, and BTP 5 on the window trim panel and the reverse light panel. Those pieces had a lot more ribbing and the SPL 04 wouldn't work. I probably could have used the SPL 08 on the main panel but I didn't want to chance running out of it when I do the floor, doors, and the rest if the hatch.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Got the ass end apart tonight. I did this in about an 45 minutes. I can have the front seats out in about 10-15 minutes and the center console in maybe 20-30 minutes. Then the carpet comes out and I'm deadening the floor. I'm going to pull the headliner too since it's a TON easier than the MkV was.


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## trevordj (Feb 22, 2009)

Everything looks really nice. Where did you get your STP products from? How does the price compare to, say, SDS or Second Skin?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I got mine from Greg (south east customz). I can't compare the pricing since Don has yet to ever reply to a single email and I haven't priced Second Skin. It's is quite a bit less expensive than Dynamat and so far works as good or better. A total win in my book.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

right on. now i know what to expect when i start taking apart my wifes golf


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Is it a MkVI? So far the MKVI is much much easier, particularly the headliner, to disassemble than the MkV was.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Did the roof with a layer of bomb then a layer of SPL08...holy ****!

Did the outer skin with two layers of bomb and a layer of SPL08...double holy ****!!!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

This is the roof after the OEM "noise insulator" was removed. It was really nothing more than foam board glued on with beta seal. Had to be careful pulling it off so I didn't damage the roof metal or paint. 









The STP Bomb on the front half of the roof. I forgot to get pics of the rear. There was also some added between the ribs in the center of the roof. I forgot to get pics of the rear and center. 









Here is the SPL08 on the rear section of the roof. 









The center and rear viewed from the front. 









The front section with my GF cheesin it up. She came down to help. 









Another shot of the whole roof.









The driver's door with two layers of Bomb.









And since I can't upload anymore images to Tapatalk the door with SPL08 will have to wait until I can upload it to imageshack.


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## trevordj (Feb 22, 2009)

You are a lot more efficient at sound deadening than I am . It's kinda hard to tell based on the information on the website but from what I gather the "bomb" product is a butyl based dampener with a foil shield and the SPL 80 is a closed cell foam without mass loaded vinyl correct? The stuff looks really nice.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yes. Bomb and Gold are butyl but bomb has a MUCH thicker metal layer so it's quite a bit stronger but it doesn't confirm like Gold. SPL 04 and 08 are closed cell foam with the 08 being thicker. Then the BTP 5 is an open cell foam, kind of like ensolite, but has its own adhesive. So far I love all of these products.

The hatch door, with just the weight from the little Gold and SPL 04 I used is MUCH slower to open and close, is noticeably quieter, and pushed my bass image to the dash. Apparently most of my bass image issues were from the hatch. Go figure. I haven't driven yet but I'll report back after I do the other door tomorrow then get the door panels and headliner back in. 

The difference in the sound of the roof has been the most dramatic by a WIDE margin. I can't wait to finish the doors with a layer of Tile. I'll deaden the regulators then too. Now that I have the rivets drilled out they're super easy to remove. I want to try and get the carpet out tomorrow as well so I can do the front floor. I can do the hatch floor anytime, that's easy. I'm also going to put BTP 5 one every interior panel I have enough material to cover.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looks good, man. I'm sure it'll make a huge difference when you get it all back together.


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

big rivet gun for the inner door frame?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

There's only 4 rivets but they can be replaced with the same fasteners that are used on the rest of the regulator. The rivets were a HUGE pain in the ass to remove because of their size. 

Headliner goes back in today and the other door gets done too.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The SPL 08 on the inner skin.









The Black Hole Tile on top of everything. I ended up having to move two so there are six Tiles per door now. Of course I just bought a box that I won't need now so I guess that's for sale. 









I wasn't able to deaden the wet side of the regulator nearly as much as I wanted but hopefully this will help some. Worst case, it won't hurt. 









I was able to get some Bomb and SPL 08 on the driver's side floor, front an rear. No pics though. I wasn't able to cover that much in the front because of the floor vents but the rear footwell got full coverage. 

Next up will be the passenger's side floor, then under the back seat and finally the hatch floor and sides and the deadening will be done. I'm hoping to have it all wrapped up by the end of the weekend but I have games Mon-Thur so we'll see how that goes.

edit: I also added some BTP 5 foam to the regulator support that's directly behind the midbass driver. The front doors are solid as ****. The roof.. OH. MY. GOD... the roof is UNREAL now. Like knocking on concrete.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

Paul this has to rank near the top as one of the most detailed deadening jobs I've seen. That's going to be one nice quiet ride.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Thanks Ricky. I'm really trying to do a thorough job so I only have to do it once. 

The only part I'm debating about doing is the rear doors. Pulling the regulator is more of a pain than the fronts so I may just use some Gold and SPL 04 on the door panel and call it a day.


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## JCJetta (Mar 28, 2013)

Looking great so far.

Is it strange that I am envious of the fact you have proper 2-way stock locations in your doors compared to the cluster---- of a 3-way my MKV GTI has? 

I look forward to updates!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

JCJetta said:


> Looking great so far.
> 
> Is it strange that I am envious of the fact you have proper 2-way stock locations in your doors compared to the cluster---- of a 3-way my MKV GTI has?
> 
> I look forward to updates!


You shouldn't be. I MUCH prefer the MkV setup. The mid will easily play low enough that the midbass being in the rear is non-directional and a 3-way is a drop-in. I also prefer door locations becuase it really widens the stage. The MkV also has a ton more room for a midbass. I'm VERY depth limited.


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## JCJetta (Mar 28, 2013)

Really? Good to know. I'm considering that PPI 3-way setup on passive. I don't have the time or tolerance to run wire through that Molex connector, but I am lacking proper midbass severely right now.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Since you can remove the outer door skin (It's REALLY easy) running wires into the MkV door is a piece of cake. With a 1.25" spacer you can fit almost anything you want. I had RS225s and ZR800 in there and they fit easily. I preferred the ZR800s. Those and the C5 4" mid with a great tweeter would be a KILLER combo in that car. All from the OEM locations.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Got a little more deadening done. Finished up the passenger side floor deadening (no pics since it was a big enough PITA to even get under the carpet (I didn't pull it out, it would have required cutting). Then I did the hatch and the area under the back seat with Bomb. I'm debating which foam I'm going to use over it. Proabably SPL 04 under the seat, SPL 08 on the hatch sides, and I'm not sure I can get anything on the floor. Then all I have left is BTP 5 on the remaining interior panels and I can re-run the cabling and put her back together. 

This is the bare hatch with the old "deadener". 









Left side of the hatch









Right side of the hatch









Hatch floor









Under the back seat. Sorry it's so close.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

You're a machine, Paul! Want to come to Cali to finish the deadening in my install? I'll even buy Chiclets for you!  Mmmmmmm


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I do need to get back to Cali but it'll be to see family. I haven't been home since last August.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Changes are afoot!!


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Good job on the roof! I never had the balls to tackle mine. But it sounds like a tin can when you knock on the roof from the outside, so I imagine it would benefit from some deadener and foam.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I only did a single layer on the roof with two layers on the doors and if there is ANY difference, it's sure not enough to justify two layers on the doors. Bomb REALLY works well. It's just a pain to work with because you need a fairly deep blade or you're going to make multiple passes.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, got some SPL 04 on the hatch sides and floor. I'm a LONG way from being done with the floor and I still need to do the area under the back seat, but here's where we stand now.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

lookin good!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Thanks! I want to try to finish up the floor tonight as well as the upper hatch panels so I can start getting everything back together. I don't know if i can put any BTP 5 on the lower side panels though since they're not plastic. I'm going to try it anywaht though. 

The difference from yesterday to today is VERY noticable. Yesterday, even with the Bomb in I could hear the gas in the tank sloshing around. Today, not even a little bit. VERY surprising.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Ah another ongoing install thread Paul. LOL! Lookin' good though. Are we doing an over/under on how long it will take before all drivers and DSP unit change?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Already changed processors twice, components once, and I just ordered new amps. Contemplating a sub change but we'll see.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> Already changed processors twice, components once, and I just ordered new amps. Contemplating a sub change but we'll see.


Yep, that's the Paul I know. LOL!!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Boostedrex said:


> Yep, that's the Paul I know. LOL!!


Consistency is key. LMAO 

I went from an H800 to a 6to8 to a PS8.

I ran the D800 to the H800 then went to stock, and now I've got a W535 in the dash.

Started with QSD216s and now I'm running illusion C6s.

I'm not telling what amps I got yet. 

May change the sub too. We'll see.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Today's work:
BTP 5 on the upper c-pillar covers:









Then put the OEM noise control piece back on:









Lower c-pillar trim got BTP 5:









Rear trim panel got BTP 5:









Back wall of the spare tire area got SPL 08 over the Bomb I'd placed earlier:









Finished the spare tire well with as much SPL 08 as I got put on before I got tired of it. lol









Dash side panels got BTP 5:









Same with the small trim right next to the dash side panels:









A-pillars got BTP 5 on the vent (wasn't sure I'd have room for the SPL 08) and SPL 08 on the upper part of the panel:









I got all these pieces back into the car (doing the a-pillars SUUUUUUUUCKS), the center console is back in, got my dash cubby, window switches (forgot to order the mirror control, oops!), head light switch (wired the parking lights trigger too), and Enfig dash kit in as well. It was a long weekend.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Added Bomb and a little Gold to the dry side of the regulator. This is the driver's door:









With the wiring back in place:









Passenger's door. It got double layers of Bomb since it had more resonance issues but I'm going to add more to the driver's door to match:









With the OEM wiring back in place:









Then a box showed up today...:









UPS wasn't too gentle with it...:









What's this...:









I think it goes with these...:









































They just BARELY fit but they should work out ok. The 200.4 and 300.2 might have actually been easier to squeeze in because the wiring would be past the narrowest section of the rack. Oh well, maybe I'll upgrade later:


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## basher8621 (Feb 21, 2009)

See, I knew you could fit them.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Honestly, I was surprised. There will be some wiring that might be in the way of the spare tire but it should be minor at best. If I have to use my Kicker 4 gauge to make the turns a bit tighter then I will. I think my JL wiring will be ok though. I'll find out tomorrow.


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## slowride (Jan 26, 2009)

Nice amps. Are those the same amp racks you used with the HDs. If they are it really gives some size perspective to mosconi's.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Same racks but the rear section was shortened a couple of inches. Maybe 3. These are 13.77" long and there was 12-ish inches of room before so they weren't drastically changed. These are smaller than the numbers would lead you to believe though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Added SPL 04 under the back seat. 

















And did SPL 04 and BTP 5 on the rear threshold piece.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

How much did you invest in sound deadening alone? 

Kelvin


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The entire order's MSRP was about two grand. I won't use a lot more of it than I thought and I can return what I don't use but overall I wouldn't be surprised if what I used was $500-$600 or so.

Then there's the Tile I'm picking up at Pate's show in a couple of weeks.

It needed it though. TDIs give up some deadening to minimize weight and maximize mileage.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> The entire order's MSRP was about two grand. I won't use a lot more of it than I thought and I can return what I don't use but overall I wouldn't be surprised if what I used was $500-$600 or so.
> 
> Then there's the Tile I'm picking up at Pate's show in a couple of weeks.
> 
> It needed it though. TDIs give up some deadening to minimize weight and maximize mileage.


Thanks... Just wanted an idea coz I'm planning to do what you've done on your car (minus the inside panels)
Want a nice limo feeling in my SUV 

Kelvin


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## south east customz (Jan 17, 2011)

Kelvin hit me up when your ready. I'll take care of you.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

south east customz said:


> Kelvin hit me up when your ready. I'll take care of you.


Well noted... Thanks  

Kelvin


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

^^^He's not kidding either. I'm almost disappointed I didn't use more if the stuff I ordered but the car is DEAD right now. All I have left to do ANYTHING with is the lower b-pillars, sill covers, the pieces on either side of the back seat and the rear doors which I'm debating on. I could use my Tile (mostly for comparison since they'll rarely be used) but that would be a monumental waste of Tile or the StP stuff since road and wind noise is really what I need to kill in there. 

I want to do the wheel wells too. I'll get the wheels and liners off and see if I can use what I have.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

How are you using the amps? Which amps for your components?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

jel847 said:


> How are you using the amps? Which amps for your components?


The 100.4 will be driving the tweeters and sub and the 200.2 will be on the midbasses. I could swap my dual 2 Ohm Arc10 for a dual 4 Ohm and load the amp down but I dont' really need the power and this way it'll run a little cooler and have more headroom.


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## jel847 (Nov 8, 2007)

Check out the audiomobile elite subs...very impressive and sound fantastic


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I don't have any complaints with the Arc. I've used them many times before. I'll look at the audiomobiles but I'm not sure they'll fit. I DO like the illusion subs too.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Lots of hard work here. Treating the car with sound deadening products is a pain in the balls. I'm curious though...with the knowledge we have now on treatment options and their effectiveness, why did you decide to go significantly beyond the point of diminishing returns with the butyl based dampener product and forego doing MLV for sound blocking? Is the issue with this car more resonance than outside sound penetrating the cabin?
I can totally see the open/closed cell foams used for decoupling of panels to eliminate the plastic panel resonances though too and that's painstaking work- well done there. I ordered some PSA backed open cell for just this purpose in my vehicle as well. Being a hatchback (and putting a sizeable subwoofer back there) I'm going to have to shore up that hatch door and the trim pieces back there as well. Not looking forward to it...

Those Mosconi's are awesome. About the only thing I'd consider swapping out my Arc cxlr amps for is the Arc SE series and the Mosconi Zero or AS line. I'm looking forward to hearing your opinions on them especially compared to a great set of HD amps you were using.


-Steve


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

captainobvious said:


> Lots of hard work here. Treating the car with sound deadening products is a pain in the balls. I'm curious though...with the knowledge we have now on treatment options and their effectiveness, why did you decide to go significantly beyond the point of diminishing returns with the butyl based dampener product and forego doing MLV for sound blocking? Is the issue with this car more resonance than outside sound penetrating the cabin?


Yep, couldn't get a hold of Don and I REALLY didn't want to dick around with gluing them in place. My biggest issues were resonance (a TON in the doors) as blocking noise. The SPL 08 is FANTASTIC at blocking noise and is infinitely easier to work with than MLV. 



> I can totally see the open/closed cell foams used for decoupling of panels to eliminate the plastic panel resonances though too and that's painstaking work- well done there. I ordered some PSA backed open cell for just this purpose in my vehicle as well. Being a hatchback (and putting a sizeable subwoofer back there) I'm going to have to shore up that hatch door and the trim pieces back there as well. Not looking forward to it...


I was really trying to block as much noise as possible and the panels don't make any real noise so SPL is what I'm trying to use as much as possible. That said, even the BTP 5 on the door panels made a HUGE difference. 



> Those Mosconi's are awesome. About the only thing I'd consider swapping out my Arc cxlr amps for is the Arc SE series and the Mosconi Zero or AS line. I'm looking forward to hearing your opinions on them especially compared to a great set of HD amps you were using.


You know the only reason I'm not running SEs now? Size. They're almost an inch longer before wiring and an inch taller. And that's the 4100 and 2150. The 4200 and 230 would never have fit in there. If I ever decide to lose the spare I'm going to run dual 4200s and a 2300. 

That said, I have no qualms about the ASs at all. They're almost as small at the HDs, should have as much, or a tad more, power, and easier to work with because the controls are on top. 

I'll hopefully have them up and running this weekend and I'm definitely going to post up my impressions.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

quality_sound said:


> Yep, couldn't get a hold of Don and I REALLY didn't want to dick around with gluing them in place. My biggest issues were resonance (a TON in the doors) as blocking noise. The SPL 08 is FANTASTIC at blocking noise and is infinitely easier to work with than MLV.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Excellent, I'll keep my eyes peeled for your impressions on them then. Shame about Don, that's surprising. I conatcted him through his email with what I was looking for and he was a pleasure to work with. Nice guy with solid products and valid science behind them. I had never heard of this company before but their products look nice as well.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.


-Steve


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I was too. I ended up getting a hold of him after I'd bought the StP stuff but I have no regrets. This stuff kicks all kinds of ass and Greg was very easy to work with. 

I remember seeing it here a few times but Bing really turned me on to it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Update,

I got the amps in, the processor moved, and most of the car back together. The deadening in the door FINALLY tamed the resonance issues I was having. Even if I went WAY overboard, I don't care, it was worth it to get rid of that. The people that heard the car know what I'm talking about. It was BAD. The mosconis are pretty friggin ballsy. Even with a rated drop in power I have no issues with volume and the gains are ALL at minimum. 

I may even swap processors AGAIN. I highly doubt I'll ever run a 3-way front stage in the car so having 8 channels available is kind of pointless. At least with its location if I do change it'll be an easy swap. 

Pics will be up tomorrow or Tuesday.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It's amazing the difference when you're speakers are acoustically in phase... 

I can't believe I forgot to check that. SMH...

Noise floor still isn't were I want it but its MILES more listenable now.


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## Ubereem (Apr 3, 2011)

How has the deadening been with road noise? I know my MKV Rabbit has awful road noise, don't know how it is on the MKVI or TDI though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It's noticeably better. It's no Lexus, but SO much better


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I first saw the StP stuff on some Euro builds on various forums (including DIYMA) and mentioned wanting to try it. Greg got ahold of me and sent me a little to check it out. I will definitely be ordering some stuff from him soon-ish. Gotta recover from my coilover purchase first. lol

Now I also see Bing is big on the Focal deadening products (so I might hit up the rep about BlackHole) as we're a Focal dealer. But most of the stuff will probably be from Greg. 

Jay


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I REALLY like Tile and Stuff. Like, a LOT. I almost wish I'd have had my Tile in when I did the outer skin so I could try it by itself. It's incredibly stiff and sticks like a sonofabitch. I absolutely didn't get the most out of my usage of it but I'll be ok. lol

Coilovers are on my to-do list, right after either Enkei RPF-1s and tires or OZ Ultraleggeras and tires.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Had to order mine out of Korea. The guy I am getting them through is getting them for me for like $500-600 off of any other place I've seen them. But it's taken a little while to get things going with the language barrier and time difference (Korea is 13 hours ahead of us). And the company agreed to accept Paypal (so me and the guy I'm buying them through are both protected), but then couldn't figure out how to get the money in to their bank account. Supposedly they got it all worked out and they should ship sometime in the next few days.

Had they not gotten it figured out, I'd have asked to get my money back and just put it into my stereo. lol

Jay


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## Noobdelux (Oct 20, 2011)

i am now reasonably finished with my golf V so i kinda know how mutch work you have put into that car (alot) : ) 

do you have considered having a go beneath the car with deadening? cant remember the english word for it but it have to do with rust protection (tectyl?) annyhow there is a product that manages the wet and reduces sound from below..


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Undercoating. I have considered it but haven't gotten around to it. It should make a big difference.


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## Noobdelux (Oct 20, 2011)

i did not do the sound silencer part (yet a new thing so the one who did the job is alittle uncertain that it sticks) but even with the new undercoat against rust its an improvment


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I'm not worried about rust. VW does maybe the best job in the industry at protecting their vehicles against rust. If I do it it will strictly be for the deadening benefits.


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## Noobdelux (Oct 20, 2011)

yeeah well thats not what he told me ; P annyhow maybe its a difference abaout cars we get idk.. and they use a LOT of salt on the roads in winter


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)




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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

hmm, let me know how they sound.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I don't think I'll be disappointed. They're really to mate with my horns but I probably won't be able to get those in the car until after I move.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Kelvin


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

lmao


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

little off the wall, but what is the reason for the unique surround on those drivers?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

No clue. Pioneer did something similar on some other speakers but I can't tell you what, if any, benefit there is. 

They are pretty though. lol


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Lorin said:


> little off the wall, but what is the reason for the unique surround on those drivers?


I seem to remember that the shape and form has been chosen to reduce resonance in the midrange and to minimize bell modes. Other than that, no clue :worried:

Kelvin


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

the under-dash of these cars fit mini-horns very well.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Full sized horns are a piece of cake in a MkVI.


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## Twonks (Nov 10, 2007)

Hi from the UK. 

Cool looking car and install you got there. 

I've got a 2013 CC and am having problems getting a 4AWG power run through from the engine bay into the cabin.

I see in your pic way back on page 1 you have use the factory loom grommet. This seems to be in the same place as I have on my car, but when I tried to go through I got stuck after about 3 inches. 

Didn't want to push too hard in case I damaged any of the factory wires, but wondered if you had any secrets or advice based on your install?


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## estione (Jul 24, 2009)

I think you will like those 18's sound very nice in the midrange imo, a tad light on the midbass, hence why i have gone 3 way with seas rw220's, Nice build though


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Is your CC a manual or Tip? If it's a Tip I'd use the grommet where the clutch would come through the firewall. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

estione said:


> I think you will like those 18's sound very nice in the midrange imo, a tad light on the midbass, hence why i have gone 3 way with seas rw220's, Nice build though


Midbass has easily been as good as my QSDs or illusions. I really like them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Twonks (Nov 10, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> Is your CC a manual or Tip? If it's a Tip I'd use the grommet where the clutch would come through the firewall.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Manual unfortunately.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

No biggie. Still easy to get the wire through the main harness. I use a metal hanger straightened out to feed the cable through. It might be easier to go from inside the car instead of from the engine bay. 


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## Twonks (Nov 10, 2007)

OK cheers for the reply. I too used a coat hanger but it just bent when I got so far.

Will try from inside the car when I next tackle it, although there is a lot of heater bits and other objects in the way it seems.

Shall report back in my own thread after playing so as not to detract away from yours any further.


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

when i did mine, i had to slit it the grommet from both sides: under the hood and under the dash. (i have a stick too).


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## 1nfinite (Apr 8, 2013)

How are you getting on with this car & the door mids you was installing?

I find the doors really hard to get sounding great on the mk6. I spent tons of hours trying to get perfect & they also leak front & back so I had to put some plumbers putty around the bottom of the plastic inner door to stop this.
Apparently is common with Golfs, but not many people can work out the real problem just I was working on mine during the recent UK Monsoon season lol

I am about to have to take my ceiling down for the second time too as didnt do a good enough job & the bass clangs in the back..
I am going to remove the cardboard bit like you have done this time, I was to nervous of damaging it last time but is a must & lots of noises from the plastic on the ceiling I have frustratingly been working on bit by bit since I had the car.
I do have 5k of bass tho so im not sure everyone would experience the same rattles.

Ive seen someone on here weld steel bars at the back half of the ceiling & thought he must be crazy when I saw it, but now am very envious & if I new a decent welder.....

Any updates & experience appreciated.

Cheers.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Well I sold the car and got an STI on New Year's Eve but the last thing I did was the 18sounds midbass install. The MkVI doors have a lot of issues with the regulator being plastic. The metal in the MkIV and MkV was much easier to deal with. 

Make sure you go slow with the cardboard. You can very easily damage the roof. 

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## 1nfinite (Apr 8, 2013)

quality_sound said:


> Well I sold the car and got an STI on New Year's Eve but the last thing I did was the 18sounds midbass install. The MkVI doors have a lot of issues with the regulator being plastic. The metal in the MkIV and MkV was much easier to deal with.
> 
> Make sure you go slow with the cardboard. You can very easily damage the roof.
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


Sorry to hear you sold after all your hard work.

And yes definitely the plastic regulator sucks & very difficult to get rid of the rattles from it. 
I might get someone to build something with the door cards when I have the cash. Might be an improvement.

I will take it easy with the board too.

Thanks


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## jgarcia1925 (Oct 29, 2014)

damn what a great thread, cant wait to put work into mine. thanks for the write up, will help alot.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

No problem. If you have any questions, let me know. I'm still subscribed to the thread so you can put them here or shoot me a PM.


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## jgarcia1925 (Oct 29, 2014)

quality_sound said:


> No problem. If you have any questions, let me know. I'm still subscribed to the thread so you can put them here or shoot me a PM.



Thanks will do. I really appreciate it. 


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