# Phoenix Gold ZPA 0.5 cap replacement and revisions



## shawnk

Hey all. I just wanted to share a recent project I completed for another member.

This is a beautiful condition PG ZPA0.5 As many of you may know, Phoenix Gold recieved defective capacitors from Panasonic which over time caused many failures for several of the PG amp lines. It is absolutely imperative that the oem (original) 16v 2200uf input capacitors be changed in these amps to prevent failure or possibly even fire damage!

Several other updates were done in addition to the cap replacement ie. Replace current limiting resistors for the fan speed control, removal of the ground/floating slide switch, and a complete disassemble of the heatsinks for cleaning and application of new thermal compound.

I'll do my best to describe the process, but please feel free to ask any questions you may have. 

So first up... here is said amp:








*Strippd down*






*The 12 large caps near the Power terminals are the input caps in need of replacement.*




*But before we tackle the caps, let's take care of those resistors in the fan circuit. These 3w 330ohm resistors get extremely hot and the tend to discolor the board if left as is. Simply remove the original resistors and install a new pair but leave the leads extended to allow the resistors some breathing room:*




*If you are careful, you should be able to desolder the old & resolder the new without having to remove the daughter board.*






*In with the new!*


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## shawnk

*Apparently I didn't get a true finalized pic since you can still see some flux here. I can assure you that all flux has been removed before reassembly *




*Here is the removal/bypass of the Ground/float switch used for the balanced line input option. *



*Very rarely do I ever use a desoldering pump. I usually use a quality desolder braid for cleaning the vias..... just personal preference.*






*The signal ground can still be floated if the two jumpers are snipped.*


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## shawnk

*Ok, on to the cap replacement! After very carefully removing the input caps it was apparent that several of the caps were indeed leaking electrolytic fluid! For all of you with these older PG amps (ZPA, MS, MPA, M series etc..) that have not replaced the caps, please understand that you cannont always "see" a leaking cap just from a visual inspection! Don't assume that your amp is any different thinking that your amp is OK with the oem caps!! This amp was a prime example. The leaking caps were not evident until I had removed them from the board.

The Electrolytic fluid is cunductive and corrosive. It can and will destroy the traces and cause dead shorts if unattended for too long!*




*I couldn't quite get a good picture of the fluid on the bottom of the caps so I highlited it:*



*Old leaky cap vs new:*




*And for good measure... This is a BNIB ZPA0.3 that I recapped for the same member. This is a PRIME example! Even though this amp has NEVER been used, the majority of the caps were still leaking!!!*







*Saved!*


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## bkjay

Thanks for posting,can't wait for more pics.


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## benny

Some of my favorite amps ever. I have an M100 and a ZX600.2Ti here that need some love.


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## shawnk

benny said:


> Some of my favorite amps ever. I have an M100 and a ZX600.2Ti here that need some love.


The M100 will certainly need the caps replaced, the Ti amp should be ok (as far as input caps are concerened)


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## shawnk

* NO VIAS WERE HARMED IN THE RECAP OF THE AMP  

I picked up one of these Flux pens a while back. Definitely my favorite way to apply flux!*











*New caps!*


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## shawnk

Still more pics to come!


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## thehatedguy

Panasonic FCs?


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## shawnk

thehatedguy said:


> Panasonic FCs?


Yes sir!!


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## shawnk

*And finally, I disassembled the heatsinks to clean them from debris and grime using mineral spirits. New high quality heatsink compound was then reapplied. *


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## bigdwiz

Wow, now you see why ShawnK gets a lot of business from me!! Excellent work and attention to detail!!


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## shawnk

bigdwiz said:


> Wow, now you see why ShawnK gets a lot of business from me!! Excellent work and attention to detail!!


Thanks buddy... Your Power 1000 is next!!


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## StockA4

Very nice work and superb attention to detail! I have at least one or two things you've had your careful hands on, so I already know this is par for the course with you.

Excellent stuff!


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## shawnk

StockA4 said:


> Very nice work and superb attention to detail! I have at least one or two things you've had your careful hands on, so I already know this is par for the course with you.
> 
> Excellent stuff!


:thumbsup:


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## edouble101

Awesome work bro! I am sending you my other two ZPA's soon!

Great pics too


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## shawnk

edouble101 said:


> Awesome work bro! I am sending you my other two ZPA's soon!
> 
> Great pics too


Thanks bro!!


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## budgophile

Great write up and documentation! I bet that thing is gonna sound sweet after a little burn-in. Well done sir!:thumbsup:


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## thehatedguy

When I get able, I should send you my Monolithic A501s to be recapped, refreshed, and put back together.


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## shawnk

thehatedguy said:


> When I get able, I should send you my Monolithic A501s to be recapped, refreshed, and put back together.


Let me know! I would love make that happen!


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## TrickyRicky

Sweet, very nicely done Shawnk.

As for those leaky caps, they are "HF" series. So for anyone with ANY amplifier that has "HF" capacitors....GET THEM REPLACED ASAP. I've done several different amplifiers (not just PG) that use the HF and all have leaked at one point or another. The "FC" is the replacement recommended by Panasonic.


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## shawnk

TrickyRicky said:


> Sweet, very nicely done Shawnk.
> 
> As for those leaky caps, they are "HF" series. So for anyone with ANY amplifier that has "HF" capacitors....GET THEM REPLACED ASAP. I've done several different amplifiers (not just PG) that use the HF and all have leaked at one point or another. The "FC" is the replacement recommended by Panasonic.


Thanks man!

Yes no doubt. Like I said, even a BRAND NEW never used.. never even powered up ZPA 0.3 had several leaking caps  

Now if that's not a red flag then I don't know what is!!:blush:


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## mr.nice

:beerchug:nice jobs broo


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## vwdave

I know this is an older thread but I am very impressed. I just did a similar job, except the 0.5 that I was working on had some issues. First power up after repair blew a fuse, but after taking it apart I found a stray copper strand under a heat sink and a damaged trace lead that I have now repaired.

Heres pics of mine...sorry if Im trolling your thread, i didnt do as good a job as you and I am not trying to take any of your business. feel free to use any of my photos for demo reasons (hopefully you dont use my replaced photos of what not to do please.  )

Old caps:



Cleaned up:


new caps:



Bad FETs:



FETs removed:



FETs and resistors removed (notice the leaked cap fluid):


Someones poor attempt to repair it:



New FETs:
oops I guess I didnt get pictures of the new FETs but I upgraded to irfz48 FETs and changed the resistors to the 33 ohms (if i remember correctly).

I couldnt clean up that mess on the board, but I dont think it caused damage. I do have cleaner soldering points even though its not clear in the photo:


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## shawnk

Good save for a classic amp!

Did you find that the gate resistors were damaged, or did you decide to change them no matter what? All of the ZPA's I've worked on had 33ohm gate resistors as well. Good move upgrading the power supply fets as the irfz44's are the week points within those amps. I even used irf3205's (pics within my build log... link below) in my personal 0.5's A little overkill, but they haven't posed any issues with the drive signal.


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## SQSPORTTRAC

Awesome thread... you really do nice work .You fix all amps correct? i know if i have any problems with my older amps im calling you  Caps don't last forever


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## shawnk

SQSPORTTRAC said:


> Awesome thread... you really do nice work .You fix all amps correct? i know if i have any problems with my older amps im calling you  Caps don't last forever


Thank you.

Definitely let me know if/when you need a hand!


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## vwdave

shawnk said:


> Good save for a classic amp!
> 
> Did you find that the gate resistors were damaged, or did you decide to change them no matter what? All of the ZPA's I've worked on had 33ohm gate resistors as well. Good move upgrading the power supply fets as the irfz44's are the week points within those amps. I even used irf3205's (pics within my build log... link below) in my personal 0.5's A little overkill, but they haven't posed any issues with the drive signal.


Thanks. The resistors didnt look blown but since its a V2 it had 330 ohm resistors. The difference between a V1 and V2 is that the V2 has less blades on its fan, 7, versus like 12 or 13. Also, those fan resistors are different and of course the gate resistors. Actually, that switch your bypassed is also gone, so you have been upgrading your amps to V2 all along i guess.

So more background, the previously owner had it, it blew and he has someone repair it. They replaced a FET and did a crappy job. After that it worked for a short time then went out all together. Obviously he didnt know these amps because the caps were not changed and had been leaking for a while. Also, you can see the mess he made. When I tore it down I found another completely burned FET, his bad soldering job, and a few other FETs that were partially burned. Thats why I decided to replace all FETs and their resistors.

oh and the caps were upgraded to 8200 uf. the original 2200 would have been nice but when I ordered them they were MUCH smaller than the originals.


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## shawnk

vwdave said:


> oh and the caps were upgraded to 8200 uf. the original 2200 would have been nice but when I ordered them they were MUCH smaller than the originals.


Yes, it's nice that new technology has improved capacitor design and construction


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## TrickyRicky

Shawnk, have you seen a PG TI that was modified with T03 metal package transistors? I was also given the idea to modify the TI (or similar PG's like the ZX) by removing all the heat sink inside and lifting the output transistors vertically and attaching a individual heat sink on each output...instead of sharing the heatsink, each output will be standing vertically with its own heatsink.

Was told this by a PG tech/founder, said it would be a neat modification and would help a lot with the heat....I believe he said I might not even need that fan once modded. I might have to give that a try.


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## shawnk

TrickyRicky said:


> Shawnk, have you seen a PG TI that was modified with T03 metal package transistors? I was also given the idea to modify the TI (or similar PG's like the ZX) by removing all the heat sink inside and lifting the output transistors vertically and attaching a individual heat sink on each output...instead of sharing the heatsink, each output will be standing vertically with its own heatsink.
> 
> Was told this by a PG tech/founder, said it would be a neat modification and would help a lot with the heat....I believe he said I might not even need that fan once modded. I might have to give that a try.


Yes actually I have seen that done before. There's a member over on the PhoenixPhorum who has done it. Can't remember who it was though as it was quite some time ago.

It seems like a nifty little mod, but I'm not sure if I would personally invest the time needed to do it. That's just me though. :blush:


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## TrickyRicky

Well am not messing with the TO3, that's for sure...too much money on those transistors and time of course. But I might give the "vertical mounted heat sinks" a try.


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## shawnk

TrickyRicky said:


> Well am not messing with the TO3, that's for sure...too much money on those transistors and time of course. But I might give the "vertical mounted heat sinks" a try.


No doubt. Well you'll have to post up a thread on it if you go through with it!!


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## SQSPORTTRAC

shawnk said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Definitely let me know if/when you need a hand!



definitely! i appreciate that...nice to know of someone who does good work if your amp needs a tune up.


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## Dubstep

TrickyRicky said:


> Well am not messing with the TO3, that's for sure...too much money on those transistors and time of course. But I might give the "vertical mounted heat sinks" a try.


 Individual heatsinks on the outputs will not work, not enough mass, not much room either if you stand them up, its less than 1.5 inches clearance inside of the amp. This amp is good for 1500 watts @ around 15v B+ input also using the line driver for this amp.
Now if you buy some heatsink that you can make run from the front of the amp to its rear. 1 long heatsink per side. That will work. Im making them, I just need to do some drilling and spot facing for the screws. and Im done with the first amp, Ill test it and then do 4 more zpas. Its gonna add about 15lbs to the amp.. Mounting them firmly to the outputs is the key to making this work. I bought some heatsink from "barrred boss" on ebay, he has a website now to, just google heatsink. Has everything we could ever need!


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## TrickyRicky

Dubstep said:


> Individual heatsinks on the outputs will not work, not enough mass, not much room either if you stand them up, its less than 1.5 inches clearance inside of the amp. This amp is good for 1500 watts @ around 15v B+ input also using the line driver for this amp.
> Now if you buy some heatsink that you can make run from the front of the amp to its rear. 1 long heatsink per side. That will work. Im making them, I just need to do some drilling and spot facing for the screws. and Im done with the first amp, Ill test it and then do 4 more zpas. Its gonna add about 15lbs to the amp.. Mounting them firmly to the outputs is the key to making this work. I bought some heatsink from "barrred boss" on ebay, he has a website now to, just google heatsink. Has everything we could ever need!


Are you referring to the ZPA amps? I was actually referring to the ZX and TI amplifiers. The only reason I mentioned it was because it was actually suggested to me by a good friend of mine (he happens to know the designs very well as he was part of the company) hence the reason I brought it up to ShawnK to hear his opinions. But I would love to see and hear more about your heatsink mods on the ZPA, sounds like fun


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## vwdave

I would also like to see this as i took mine apart again to replace my FETs.


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## candelario1

hi is ok if ichange the caps 2200uf 50v


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## shawnk

candelario1 said:


> hi is ok if ichange the caps 2200uf 50v


Sure, but 50v is much higher than needed for input caps. Lower the voltage (no less than 16v) and you'll get much higher capacitance for the same physical size.


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## candelario1

so is no good for the amp is zpa 0.5


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## shawnk

They'll work fine. 

There's just better options


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## candelario1

ok thank you


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## vwdave

Hey I wanted to add some pics a recently repaired zpa0.5. I bought it and the caps had been replaced poorly. I'll put up before and afters to see what's getting done out here these days.

BEFORE:













































AFTER:


















I guess I am kind of short on my after shots. You can zoom in on my picture to see the soldering joints. I did what I could with what I had to work with. 

I need to space my fan resistors further from the board. And yes, those were the legs from the caps that were used to jump from on to the others, and totally not necessary as the vias were not even damaged.


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## shawnk

OUCH!


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## vwdave

I'm bringing this back from the dead because I redid a zpa0.3. I guess I like the challenges as this one was rougher than that 0.5 that I fixed. Still have a few things to finish up.

Before:


























During:


















































After:


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## MAIDEN69

So are the Titanium Series amps safe from this? I have a new 500.4. New but old!


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## shawnk

MAIDEN69 said:


> So are the Titanium Series amps safe from this? I have a new 500.4. New but old!


No worries on the Titanium amps... you're safe


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## MAIDEN69

Thanks. I popped the 3 amps open I plan to use. The PG Titanium 500.4, the RF Power 800A2, and the RF Punch 800A4. None had Panasonic caps, as I'm sure you already know.
They all have Nichicon caps. The thermal grease on the two Fosgates seems fine. It is still malleable. I assume I should be good. The PG you can't really see any grease in there.
Thought I would show the guts of these 3. Any opinions on these models? Reliability, sound quality, output? Have you had to repair many?
In order: PG Ti500.4/Punch 800A2/Power 800A2


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## shawnk

All of those are great amps...very reliable.

They should never need repair unless they've been abused 

They'll all sound great, but most would consider the Ti an SQ amp, and the Rockfords would be more powerhouse's.


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## MAIDEN69

shawnk said:


> All of those are great amps...very reliable.
> 
> They should never need repair unless they've been abused
> 
> They'll all sound great, but most would consider the Ti an SQ amp, and the Rockfords would be more powerhouse's.


Great to hear. My plan all along has been to use the Ti for my front stage. The Power amp for the subs. The other fosgate for my rears and or midbass drivers.
Do the Ti amps run hot if bridged? I am considering bridging the amp down to 2 chns for my front components. Good idea or bad?


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## shawnk

MAIDEN69 said:


> Great to hear. My plan all along has been to use the Ti for my front stage. The Power amp for the subs. The other fosgate for my rears and or midbass drivers.
> Do the Ti amps run hot if bridged? I am considering bridging the amp down to 2 chns for my front components. Good idea or bad?



What are you planning on running for speaks?


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## MAIDEN69

shawnk said:


> What are you planning on running for speaks?


Front stage is a set of Kicker Resolution RS6 speakers. They use the ND25a silk tweeters. I have a matching pair of 8" midbass drivers to go with them but may not use them.
Rear fill speakers are another set of the same Kickers RS6's setup in the coax orientation.
Subwoofers will either be the pair of Diamond Audio MacDaddy 10's I already own. Or I may go with a pair of 8" subs. Been looking at the new Alpine Type R 8's. Don't think I can afford the JL W7 8's.


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## shawnk

Nice old school gear. I remember all of it. I had a set of RS6's myself at one point and absolutely loved them 

If it were me: I would run the RS6's actively off of the Ti amp. I despise passive crossovers and only use them when absolutely necessary. Next, I'd run the 8's off of the 800a4 in bridged mode for good power. Personally, I don't care for rear fill so I wouldn't even run them. Then the subs off of the 800a2 naturally. You could even sell the Ti and pick up another 800a4 or even a 600a4 to run the RS6's if you wanted matching amps.

Anyway... there are a lot of ways to spin it.. that's just the route that I would take. Everybody's different


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## shawnk

Wait, I had R6s (black cone) back in the day... but close enough lol


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## MAIDEN69

shawnk said:


> Wait, I had R6s (black cone) back in the day... but close enough lol


I had those first and fell in love with the tweets. Everyone I saw had MB Quarts with the metal dome tweets. Made my ears rings after listening at loud volumes. Those silk Nd25/Nd25a Kicker tweets never did that to me. I ended up selling that set and buying 2 more sets of the newer models, these RS6's.
Just never got around to using them until now!


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## shawnk

MAIDEN69 said:


> I had those first and fell in love with the tweets. Everyone I saw had MB Quarts with the metal dome tweets. Made my ears rings after listening at loud volumes. Those silk Nd25/Nd25a Kicker tweets never did that to me. I ended up selling that set and buying 2 more sets of the newer models, these RS6's.
> Just never got around to using them until now!



Coolman. Well post up a new build log thread when you start working on it. We all like pics


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## MAIDEN69

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...c5-corvette-sound-control-audio-overhaul.html

Feel free to chime in if you see something wrong, missing, whatever. I like advice. I won't always take it, but I will certainly listen to it. I've been out of the game for a while. Got into home audio/video and other toys. C5 Covette, 46' International Harvester Hotrod.
Knew someday I would start putting systems in them.


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## vwdave

Maiden69, you lucked out. The titanium amps were safe, but the identical but earlier versions, ZX TI were not safe.

EDIT: the more I look at your pictures, I think someone replaced your caps. They went with OEM values (16v, 2200uf) which are now smaller caps than original. You can see that the board markings are for larger sized caps, and they appear to be shorter too. Nothing wrong with this at all, but I usually put in caps the same size as originals, but have a higher capacitance and/or voltage rating (see below).

Here's a zx600ti, similar but earlier version of the titanium 600.2









And a zx475ti, predecessor to the 500.4. These caps didn't leak but they were the ones that were notorious for leaking









And now with nichicon caps









Oh, and more leaking cap carriage on a zpa0.5. 11 or 12 caps leaked...


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## HardCoreDore

Good looking repairs my friend. Did you go to school for this or are you just a really good hobbyist? I have always loved that series of PG amps. I had an M44 and M50 in HS. Unfortunately, I didn't have them very long until someone decided they needed them more than I did. 

The local PG dealer had one of those Z series amps mounted on the wall like a piece of art. It wasn't even hooked up, it was just a show piece. I drooled over it regularly back in '93.


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## MAIDEN69

I bought it from a local shop that sold PG I used to frequent back in the day. Bought it as new so..... Sure it's not just the photo?


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## vwdave

HardCoreDore said:


> Good looking repairs my friend. Did you go to school for this or are you just a really good hobbyist? I have always loved that series of PG amps. I had an M44 and M50 in HS. Unfortunately, I didn't have them very long until someone decided they needed them more than I did.
> 
> The local PG dealer had one of those Z series amps mounted on the wall like a piece of art. It wasn't even hooked up, it was just a show piece. I drooled over it regularly back in '93.


Not sure if you are talking to me or ShawnK, if you are talking to me then thanks. I am an electrical engineer so I didn't go to school for this specifically but I learned how to do this in school. I also do something similar for a career. It with medical equipment rather than car amps.

I really hate thieves. I have no problem with capital punishment for crimes such as stealing. Let's cut their hands off, that might be a good deterant.



MAIDEN69 said:


> I bought it from a local shop that sold PG I used to frequent back in the day. Bought it as new so..... Sure it's not just the photo?


Oh if you've owned it since new them I guess it's original. The size differentiation might be because they used the same board as the previous one (ZXti) amp but used different caps due to the known issue.


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## HardCoreDore

I actually was talking to Shawn K initially, as I didn't realize there were 2 different amps in this thread. Your repairs look nice as well.


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## vwdave

Lol well Shawn is awesome, and I thread jacked anyways, but I didn't see a point in starting a new thread over the same model amp.


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## mikelycka

now I know what amp to buy in the pg line without needing cap replacement


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## HardCoreDore

I guess he said the Titanium amps were the ones that don't need cap replacement? What about the xs series? I know they aren't as high end, or overbuilt; but do they have the cap issue?


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## mikelycka

What does the caps look like that would tell you


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## HardCoreDore

It says earlier in this thread, that the caps were faulty and they are very likely to leak electrolytic fluid on the board. I don't know much more than you, other than that.


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## mikelycka

all pg blue caps leaked but im not sure if the cheaper or lower end pg amps used the same caps I tend to think they didn't as I have not seen many of them changed on the pg forum


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## vwdave

The bad caps were the HF and HFZ series Panasonic caps. They were dark blue with gold stripe.

I say this because there is a replacement for these that are almost identical but are not known to leak, and have a much higher farad rating for the same size. It's the FC series. This is what I use for my cap replacements.

You can't always tell if they have leaked as they leak under the cap and don't always spill out to the side of the cap on the board. If you have an amp with either of those series caps then they need to be replaced, no questions asked.

Phoenix gold used these caps from the early 90s until the early 00s, so I believe that any of their amps from that era would need new caps. Other brands also used those faulty caps, so if you are planning to use an amp from that era then I'd recommend checking to see what series the caps are.


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## socapots

Interesting read. Thanks to everyone for sharing all the info and pics. I have a couple Sony amps from back in the day that I now want to check. Had plans of using them again at some point.


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## HardCoreDore

@vwdave This is somewhat off-topic, but I've always wondered. Why do some amplifiers use a capacitance bank of multiple small caps, and some use two to three very large caps? Is it just a difference in design, or is there a benefit to a large bank of small capacitors versus several large capacitors? (Same micro farad rating notwithstanding.).


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## mikelycka

also if a amp is miss used or get very very hot like orion hcca most need the caps replaced


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## deltasaurus

I know this is a slightly older thread, but gotta share the love with ShawnK and others that are bringing these great amps back to pristine conditikns if not better. Shawn, you have the skills that pay the bills! I look forward to you going through some of my current amps, as well as many that I plan on picking up over the upcoming year. Keep up the great work and we will TTYS.
:beerchug:


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## shawnk

deltasaurus said:


> I know this is a slightly older thread, but gotta share the love with ShawnK and others that are bringing these great amps back to pristine conditikns if not better. Shawn, you have the skills that pay the bills! I look forward to you going through some of my current amps, as well as many that I plan on picking up over the upcoming year. Keep up the great work and we will TTYS.
> :beerchug:


Thanks brutha!


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## ImK'ed

Wow I want a zpa0.5 , I recently bought a ti2 1600.5 and love the way it looks but these are works of art! One thing to ask the pro repair guys here I noticed in my amp the ti21600.5 the 2 bus bwrs look like they touch are they ok to touch I mean are they both same + volts? Sorry to go off topic


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## vwdave

HardCoreDore said:


> @vwdave This is somewhat off-topic, but I've always wondered. Why do some amplifiers use a capacitance bank of multiple small caps, and some use two to three very large caps? Is it just a difference in design, or is there a benefit to a large bank of small capacitors versus several large capacitors? (Same micro farad rating notwithstanding.).


Oops, sorry I don't come to this section often as it's not a not part of the forum. I believe it's just a design. On lots of PPI amps (namely the pc2350 and pcx2400) there's one smaller cap per FET, on the PGs it's less than 1 cap per FET but still you get at least a few, and on the orion HCCA2100 that I'm working on there's 2 large ones. All are around 1kw class a/b amps but went with a different approach. The ultimate capacitance is what's important. 

One could argue that with Orion's approach, if one cap fails, it's a big so it'll make a bigger explosion, and it'll take out the entire amp. On the PPIs, if 1 cap fails, smaller explosion (or reaction, less damage) and it only takes out one FET and gate resistor. Then you have the space issue, 2 larger caps take up less space than 24 smaller ones.



ImK'ed said:


> Wow I want a zpa0.5 , I recently bought a ti2 1600.5 and love the way it looks but these are works of art! One thing to ask the pro repair guys here I noticed in my amp the ti21600.5 the 2 bus bwrs look like they touch are they ok to touch I mean are they both same + volts? Sorry to go off topic


I don't think those should be touching. I don't know that specific amp but like on the MS and MPS amps, one is for + and the other is for -.

The 0.3 and 0.5 are kind of like muscle cars. Great to own, beautiful to listen to, but not as reliable as modern amps. You should know how to do basic repairs or be prepared to pay to have someone do a tune up every several years. They obviously require PS caps, but also the mini caps go bad, the FETs can burn out, thermal paste should be changed every 6-7 years, fans last about 6-7 years too. If you keep them up then they'll be as good as any amp for many years.


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## 300ZXNA

Just want to give a shout out to ShawnK for recapping my PG ZPA 0.3. Got the amp back last week and my install is now in full swing...


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## jallen01

I may have missed this in the thread, if so my apologies. SHawnK What's the average cost to replace the capacitors and do a complete check-up on the PG amps. Or should I send them back to the factory for that?


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## shawnk

jallen01 said:


> I may have missed this in the thread, if so my apologies. SHawnK What's the average cost to replace the capacitors and do a complete check-up on the PG amps. Or should I send them back to the factory for that?


Shoot me a pm (or even better an email) with the specific amps that you have, and what you'd like to have done. Thanks

[email protected]


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