# HT box design?



## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

I have a Dayton DVC 15 on the way along with a 300w Bash plate amp. Doing a sub in my bedroom, its about 20 x 15 roughly. The box is going in the corner, and Ive been told T-Lines work great for home theater. It will be used for a even mix of music and movies/games. Looking for sick low end.

Never designed a T-Line before, but I designed one that was like 178in^ of port with a line length of 178", which comes out to around 20hz unless Im mistaken?

Would that be the best route? Or just a ported box thats really big and tuned super low?

I do a ton of car audio, but dont know much about how bass works in a room. So any suggestions as to how get my room the loudest would be great.


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## Volenti (Feb 17, 2010)

I'll have a look at a dayton 15 in a T-line for you.


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## Ga foo 88 (Dec 18, 2005)

Try a search for "el pipo" . Its a simple, concrete tube with a mounting base. How tall are the ceilings in your bedroom?


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## Volenti (Feb 17, 2010)

Your preliminary design is pretty close, it models like this with the addition of a very light amount of fill;










Acceptable for home theater bass, but with a big void where a lot of the "punchy" bass is in music.

A simple driver offset of 60'' from the closed end fixes this;



















I would advise lining at least 3/4 of the inside of the line with 1/2'' open cell foam, that should provide enough damping, more can be added if necessary once you listen to it on site.


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Would a regular ported box be any better?

My max dimensions are about 29" x 38" x 85" tall.


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## Volenti (Feb 17, 2010)

A regular ported box won't quite have the output of the T-line but it will be a lot smaller, 10cu.ft tuned to 20hz (6''x15'' port) still a pretty reasonable response curve.


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Im down with using all the space that I said in the previous post. I know that T-Lines arent really "enclosures", more of a wave guide, so will the sub be able to mechanically handle all 300rms?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Any interest in trying a sonosub?
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denham2/sonosub/me_and_my_sono.jpg

Or maybe an LLT sub>

heres mine....
My 15" TC2000 LLT End Table Project - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

What advantages do the sonosub boxes have?

I always see people using them in Street A and Street B in their CRXs in DB Drag... They have won quite a few world titles, but not sure what they would do for HT.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

galacticmonkey said:


> What advantages do the sonosub boxes have?
> 
> I always see people using them in Street A and Street B in their CRXs in DB Drag... They have won quite a few world titles, but not sure what they would do for HT.


1. They sound GREAT
2. Easy to make
3. minimal floor space
4. they weight a lot less than a sub made from MDF

Did i mention they sound great?

If you have no woodworking skills....you can buy a sontube...and have it cut to length...then order the precut ends from Elemental Design....then just add some legs.

I have never seen one in a car before...but i am talking about ordering a 18' sonotube (cost about $100 ) so commit to it if you are thinking about doing it. There are TONS of DIY links....


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

How much airspace, how much port, and what tuning for a sonotube box?

Ive built quite a few boxes...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Heres a place to do some reading...
AVS Forum

and here is a ballpark...


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Got the sub and amp today. Ill look into finding some 20" pipe.


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Did a quick draw of the box you posted, and this is what it looks like. You sure a single 6" port would be enough port area for an almost 12 cube box?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

6" is perfect...and if you can't find 20" or you would prefer 24" sonotube you could shorten the height of the sub...either way 6" port is fine, and sonotube will work for that too...


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## Ricci (Sep 30, 2008)

Dude...You are fine with a big enclosure and you already have the driver that this horn sub is designed around. I think this is up your alley. 

Tuba HT

The plans cost $15 and the Bash 300 will make this thing get stupid loud. The Dayton DVC15 is the standard driver used in it. It is very efficient and about 50v is the most you ever want to put into it. This is a FLH (front loaded horn, driver in a small sealed chamber deep inside) that has a 23hz loading (tune) and will give huge output to about 20hz and from there on up a big ported enclosure will not be able to compete. Horns also have a very clean sound to them as the cab keeps the driver noises and some of the distortion knocked down in level. The build is a little more complex, but with the plans it's not too bad. A lot of novice cab builders have made them. 

Here's a build thread with some good pictures. There's a ton of these builds at this forum. 

Reece's THT build just had to be a follower - AVS Forum


Anyway throwing another option for something a bit different out there.


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

Ricci said:


> Dude...You are fine with a big enclosure and you already have the driver that this horn sub is designed around. I think this is up your alley.
> 
> Tuba HT
> 
> ...


You beat me to it. I bought the plans. Just to have. Very interesting design and all the feedback on it is positive. OP has the correct driver. And you are right any more than the 300 will get out of hand.


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Box looks pretty sick. It would have the output down in the sub 20hz range?


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

*tag* I'm looking to do something similar to this. Was looking into Sonotube ported vs T-line myself, although for a 12", not a 15". Any advantage to porting DOWN vs up with the Sonotube enclosure?


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

Good question.


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