# 1999 Acura TL simple build - SS high-end, AE



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hi folks,

Here's some pics and info I've been hoarding as I've been working on this car from when I purchased it a few months ago. 

It should be noted that this car wasn't one of my first choices. Those that know me know I have been hunting down a 98-99 LS400 for ages, and it has been quite tough trying to find one with the right stuff at the right price. In fact, the guy I bought this car from had one that I was going to purchase, but the same morning that I arranged to drive the couple hundred miles to Cali to pick it up, he sold it. Because of this and how I had already arranged the bank stuff with this guy, I checked out the rest of his offerings and "settled" on a vehicle my parents have owned with great success in the past, the TL.

First some info about the car, for anybody that cares :laugh:. This is my new DD. It is a 1999 Acura TL, purchased for a tick under 7 grand in Cali with 125k on the clock at the time. The dumb-ass saleperson swore up and down it wasn't a repaint, but it obviously is and it obviously is a Maaco or other crappy kind of job. <sigh> Luckily other than the paint/body, the car is near immaculate. It has a clean black leather interior, strong engine and trans (and that last part is IMPORTANT with this particular car), and the suspension/brakes are in good repair. It also had a stack of service record papers that sat 2" high that came with it. At first I was concerned it had been repaired a ton, but when I read the papers it was just routine checkups and prev. maintenance almost the whole time. This includes the timing belt, valve adjustments, trans services, etc. So that's a plus.

Right after I picked it up and brought it home I seafoamed the car thoroughly in the intake, oil and fuel tank, then changed the plugs to NGK Iridiums while I was at it. So now the car goes like a stabbed cat and that's the way it should be. I also replaced the worn windshield and tinted the glass all around.

I also have spent a total of ~11 hours with a wet-sanding block and a rotary buffer in an attempt to get the hack paint job up to a level that I can consider decent. That got the hood and the deck pretty smooth, but I haven't even touched the sides at all yet despite that much time. As most things go that are so consuming and so little on reward, I just gave up and figured I'd give it another go once I'm done w/ the audio and such. Plus, its one of those things that irks me so the more I work on it the more upset I get that it was repainted to begin with. 



On with the build!

The stock head unit went first, as I ordered a double-din kit and a Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD. Following precise instructions available at Acurazine, I managed to wire up the unit to the stock rear deck subwoofer, the pre-outs linked to an RCA pigtail and connected to the HU's sub out. I also wired up a relay so the HU doesn't black out when playing movies. I'm not one of those fellas that likes to watch movies while driving, but my passenger and rear seat accompaniment might and I like listening as long it is a movie I've seen before. Let me say for those who haven't done the job before, installing a HU in this car is quite the project. I pity the thief who tries to steal one out of this car. Unless ~14 screws, several interior panels, and dozens of clips are taken out, it simply isn't budging. I didn't take pics of how to do it because AcuraZine already has a strong pic-by-pic walk-through for anybody doing it.

With the rest of the system all stock, I ran just the HU for a good couple months while I saved up and planned out an attack on the rest of the car. This car has by far the best stock audio sound system I've ever heard, and when the Pioneer deck is in charge of it all including the factory sub, the sound was pretty exceptional. In fact it made me re-think just how to improve upon it. 


Fast forward a couple months and all my gear has started to arrive. 

The main amp is a Soundstream Human Reign HRU.4, and the sub amp is a Soundstream D-Tower 1.1700. Big thanks to Grizz at SS for the opportunity to have these amps in my system. 

The front speakers on the other hand have been a debacle! I originally was going to run a 3-way setup with Mpyre midbass, Fountek midrange, and Dayton 3/4" tweeters. The thing to mention he is that was the plan _for the Lexus LS400._ Take a look at what happened when I popped the Acura's doors:




































Uh Oh! And it should be noted that the glass is touching right here. 

















So I buttoned up the doors and returned everything to stock, and decided that a simple 2-way is the more appropriate solution here. Keep in mind, if I planned on keeping this car for quite some time like I will an LS400 (when I get one), I wouldn't have an issue turning the door inside-out fabricating a solution. I just can't bring myself to do that kind of modification on a car I'll keep for 1-2 years though.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

The next thing I did was take the HU back out and run all the necessary wires to it, and under the carpet. I also had rewire the relay system. Because two amps, a processor, maybe some lights in the future, etc. are all going to run, I needed another relay. So now the system is run off a main relay that clicks on via the remote out, and that relay clicks on another relay that grounds off the HU's video bypass while simultaneously sending power to whatever I need in the back. I ran a ~10 gauge power wire alongside some 16 gauge 4 conductor CL3 wire techflexed together to accomplish this. The 4 conductor wire allows me to tap into the factory speaker wire (also 16 gauge) to run the woofers. On the other side of the trans tunnel I techflexed 2 sets of RCA and an Ethernet cable to connect the 3sixty.2 remote dial. It was here that I learned the difficulty in running that much stuff through techflex. I literally felt like I was hand-feeding a boa-constrictor. 

Main power is fed via my favorite battery terminal , the PG internally fused-terminal 









1/0 gauge runs through the factory grommet to the driver's side sill, tucking under the carpet by the sill without issue. 

Ground is via a seatbelt bolt, ground down w/ my trusty Harbor Freight angle grinder. I also rubbed off the coating on the bolt itself, and the bracket. 









Both run safely back to the trunk









Here's the 10 gauge wire and 4 conductor 16 gauge run

















Here we are, with the 4 conductor matched up to the factory wires.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Here's the RCA and ethernet run on the opposite side. 









Here's the carnage in the back:









For the A-pillar tweeters, I decided to use some leftover Monster wire straight back from the sills









The RCA/Ethernet bundle runs on the opposite side as well as the passenger tweeter










I know its amateur but hey...its DIYMA, right?


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## sinister mob (Jan 11, 2010)

I don't see amateur at all. I see great stuff. I just did the same extra relay for the Escape. Makes life easy in the rear to add stuff. In fact, I remember someone telling me how to tackle my project.... Hmmmmm....


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

LOL,.. somedays its just the blind leading the blind my man. Hahah.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Looks good. Subscribed


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

nice job & NICE CAR.... *seafoamed the car thoroughly in the intake, oil and fuel tank*

that stuff really works?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

DAT said:


> nice job & NICE CAR.... *seafoamed the car thoroughly in the intake, oil and fuel tank*
> 
> that stuff really works?



Oh lord yes. 

It is extremely effective. Just follow the instructions and try not to do it in a populated area when doing it through the intake. I don't like the concept of sucking the product directly through an intake port, so what I do is pour the product into a spray bottle, disconnect the intake tubing, and spray right into a partially opened throttle plate. Safer, no chance of hydrolock, and more assuredly going to each intake opening as well. 

Make sure to change the oil soon after doing the treatment in the crankcase, because the junk it kicks up needs to be removed ASAP.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> Oh lord yes.
> 
> It is extremely effective. Just follow the instructions and try not to do it in a populated area when doing it through the intake. I don't like the concept of sucking the product directly through an intake port, so what I do is pour the product into a spray bottle, disconnect the intake tubing, and spray right into a partially opened throttle plate. Safer, no chance of hydrolock, and more assuredly going to each intake opening as well.
> 
> Make sure to change the oil soon after doing the treatment in the crankcase, because the junk it kicks up needs to be removed ASAP.


Sorry for the OT, but I agree. Our Saturn SL1 burned a quart of oil every 1000 km when we got it, and with Seafoam I got it down to about a quart every 4-5000 km. I didnt trust the "pour it in the vacuum line" method either, so I pulled the plugs and poured an ounce or so into each combustion chamber. The rest of the can was split between the crankcase and gastank. I let it sit for 5 hours or so then cranked it without the plugs with a rag to catch the spray. It took a little cranking to get it to fire again, and when it did it bellowed white smoke for a while, but once it cleared up it ran great. I then changed the oil after a drive up the street to get things moved around. From what Ive read and heard, a mix of diesel fuel and Rislone is similar.


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

The back of the grill looks like a Lexus logo. :laugh:


So no better than 6" woofers for the doors without cutting, eh? Blows. 

Where are the tweets going?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Knobby Digital said:


> The back of the grill looks like a Lexus logo. :laugh:
> 
> 
> So no better than 6" woofers for the doors without cutting, eh? Blows.
> ...



A-pillars. I've already done the work I just need to snap some pics of it. 



This car scares me sometimes. Every once in a while if I punch it to the floor while already underway, the car will rev up, falter, then slam as if it couldn't find the gear. Damn P.O.S. trans in these vehicles, even the 4 speed which I have (supposed to be better than the very delicate 5 speed auto.) Just solidifies my need to have a Lexus LS400, that's all I'm sayin'. I'll probably simplify my system build from here on out, because that trans stuff isn't something I'm cool with. It just happened on my way to lunch today. It also happened 3 other times. I wonder how many times it takes before 3rd gear starts missing teeth.


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

Sorry you're dealing w/ those trans issues. My GF's car has the 5-speed and it shifts just fine. Probably the only time I've ever floored it is on the fwy, or just after seafoaming (only done once on that car), though. Take it easy on the poor thing. The miles are getting up there and who knows how that trans has been maintained. 

Nice work and looking forward to the rest of this thing.


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## davvv (Oct 27, 2009)

why dont you look for a Ls430? You could find one for around $12000 and its worth more. Plus you have a lot of room in the for speakers.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Thanks, all.

An LS430 may be in the future, but I like the look and structure of the 98-99 LS400's the most. It also seems it was the pinnacle of engineering, before the bean counters started to cut some corners that matter.

Either way, I have to keep this one for a year or so, so I'll make the best of it and be a little more gentle on it. 

I still have a couple weeks to wait on the Acoustic Elegance AV15-H sub, but hey my order is in so I'm just twiddling thumbs until it comes. I WAS going to go ahead and attempt a build without it, but there are some things I just can't foresee without the real thing here to test-fit, since the box will have to be pretty precise fitting given a 15" isn't exactly a small sub. In fact, I'm proud to say this will be my first 15" sub I've used for my own vehicle.

I'm still debating how I'm going to manage to get the sub to seal up against the rear seatback area. I'm considering taking that little carpet panel out of the rear seatback, and remaking one that has more breathable holes into the seat foam. Er...without a pic that probably doesn't make sense... Well what I mean is that when you take out the rear seat, the ski-pass thing comes with it AND so does the back of the trunk area. I could reform that area with something that matches but doesn't block bass as much as the solid material already on it. Hmmm....


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## Jefferson (Jan 15, 2010)

Fourthmeal, you are going to love the LS when you get one. I just bought a 430 a few months ago and its sooo much car for what you actually pay for them. I too was looking for '99 400 since I like that body style a bit more, but they are getting hard to find in somewhat decent condition(at least down here in Florida).

Oh yeah, nice progress on the install!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

thank you!

I think after our first child is born and we get past the whole new baby thing, I'll save up for an LS.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

I'm firing my sub into the backseat as well (as you probably already know  ). The only way to fit it that close is to have the baffle back an inch or two. The top is back maybe 2-2.5" and the bottom is set right up against the "hump" immediately behind the seat back. Also, I'm using a recessed mount in 2 3/4" pieces of MDF, making it 3/4" further back so the baffle can be closer.

If you remove the material from the seat back, you can see the steel "back rests" Honda used...they are solid with some ridges for strength. An airsaw in the middle of those ridges would let you open up quite a bit, although the foam would still be there.

My baffle is almost ready to go in (just needs a bit of trimming) and it should be going in this weekend. It's in no way innovative or unique. I don't have a build log (bad craftsmanship/woodworking, don't want dust in my camera) but I can send some pics if you'd like. The 15 is a tighttttt fit. On a double baffle...even more so.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ryan s said:


> I'm firing my sub into the backseat as well (as you probably already know  ). The only way to fit it that close is to have the baffle back an inch or two. The top is back maybe 2-2.5" and the bottom is set right up against the "hump" immediately behind the seat back. Also, I'm using a recessed mount in 2 3/4" pieces of MDF, making it 3/4" further back so the baffle can be closer.
> 
> If you remove the material from the seat back, you can see the steel "back rests" Honda used...they are solid with some ridges for strength. An airsaw in the middle of those ridges would let you open up quite a bit, although the foam would still be there.
> 
> My baffle is almost ready to go in (just needs a bit of trimming) and it should be going in this weekend. It's in no way innovative or unique. I don't have a build log (bad craftsmanship/woodworking, don't want dust in my camera) but I can send some pics if you'd like. The 15 is a tighttttt fit. On a double baffle...even more so.



I am going to angle the sub back and then I won't have such a fitment issue.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Uhhh...yeah...you _have _to angle it back. On a double baffle, it's going to be tilted way back. But whatever would I know about that...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ryan s said:


> Uhhh...yeah...you _have _to angle it back. On a double baffle, it's going to be tilted way back. But whatever would I know about that...


Show some pics, throw me a bone bro!


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

I just need to hit the baffle with the jigsaw a tad then it's ready. Probably Saturday. The first design got very modded from what the tape measure said, I'll put it that way


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

DAT said:


> nice job & NICE CAR.... *seafoamed the car thoroughly in the intake, oil and fuel tank*
> 
> that stuff really works?


yup, of all the ****ty products out there.... seafoam really does work!


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## eggyhustles (Sep 18, 2008)

oh man, trans issues..sorry to hear


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

eggyhustles said:


> oh man, trans issues..sorry to hear




MAYBE.

I'll just keep from being so aggressive with it, and we'll see. It hauls ass from a stop, shifts just fine all the way through.

It could be a throttle sensor or some wackjob like that.


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## tacaobell (Feb 28, 2009)

I personally like going through the PCV valve with the Seafoam. I just unplug it and use a small clear tube and let the intake suck it in slowly as I rev the engine. As for the transmission, I also had the same issue. After I did a tranny flush it went away. I believe its suppose to be done every 60K.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

ryan s said:


> I'm firing my sub into the backseat as well (as you probably already know  ). The only way to fit it that close is to have the baffle back an inch or two. The top is back maybe 2-2.5" and the bottom is set right up against the "hump" immediately behind the seat back. Also, I'm using a recessed mount in 2 3/4" pieces of MDF, making it 3/4" further back so the baffle can be closer.
> 
> If you remove the material from the seat back, *you can see the steel "back rests" Honda used...they are solid with some ridges for strength. An airsaw in the middle of those ridges would let you open up quite a bit,* although the foam would still be there.
> 
> My baffle is almost ready to go in (just needs a bit of trimming) and it should be going in this weekend. It's in no way innovative or unique. I don't have a build log (bad craftsmanship/woodworking, don't want dust in my camera) but I can send some pics if you'd like. The 15 is a tighttttt fit. On a double baffle...even more so.


I think a BUNCH of 1/4" holes (tapped for accuracy) would give you the same acoustic transparency yet maintain greater structural integrity. Good ting about that is is it doesn't work for some reason, like air noise around the grill, you can always cut out the section like you suggest.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Oh yeah, there's lots of options for the steel backs. They're pretty thick and there's plenty of material left over if you go the "metal removal" route.

Took some pics today...the baffle isn't totally in yet but it's sitting like it will when all the screws are in.

Don't want to clutter the thread with too many pics...

I'm going to cut some MDF for the sides then screw through the metal support brackets and the rear half of the OEM trunk liner. The front will cover the screws.










Tight fit at the top and bottom. Note the top of the front board lines up with the "highest" point of the deck (the 16" tall part)...



















Magnet ends about level with the rear of the gas tank hump...










Happy building!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Why does your car and my look different in the back? Hmm... I don't have any pics on my online storage to explain, will check at home for better shots.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

I think the rear deck in the TLs are bigger front to back. My dad has an 03 so I could always check it out further. The trunk is deeper it seems although they're the same volume...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Well the trunk top view matches exactly, but that back metal doesn't. 

Oh well, I'm probably not keeping this car very long, so I want to keep it basic, ya know? Too many nice LS400's around here.


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## nathanz (May 6, 2010)

eggyhustles said:


> oh man, trans issues..sorry to hear


There is a Honda recall - up to 100k mi for the TL tranny and some accords. fyi


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Yeah, on the 5speed models. Mines a 4speed. Same issues, but no recall on mine.


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## lbarrack (May 24, 2010)

Great Posts.
I started reading this and started getting a Twilight Zone moment. You see I have a 1995 Lexus LS400 that I just decided to sell (but now might keep) and just bought an Acura 2002 TL. I have also just bought off ebay a Soundstream Rubicon 805 (I only wish it was an Human Reign) and will be installing it along with a Sony XAV-60 DVD receiver. I plan on pretty much doing the same as you and for the same reasons (I don't trust the trani even though it checks ok).

I have been out of the DIY sound game for awhile but I was wondering why the Pioneer and do you think the SQ is much better than the Sony. I was going with the Pioneer you got but I decided to go with the Sony because I like the interface. Would appreciate your opinion.

Also do you think if using the stock speakers to keep the bose eq in or just rip it all out. I would like to just leave the speakers in so I can walk away from the car in a few years without any regrets.

Anyhow, thanks for your post, it will be a great help when I start my project.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I think the HU is not adding or subtracting anything from the sound, and neither is your Sony I suspect. I disabled the BOSE EQ when I first wired up the stock BOSE subwoofer/amp to my aftermarket HU. It was a very easy job to do, and the results were quite good just with stock goodies.

If I were in your shoes, I would simply go to the Acurazine, and DL the how-to on adding an aftermarket HU to the stock BOSE system. Follow it, and you should be in business.


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## lbarrack (May 24, 2010)

Thanks. I'll give that a try. I have to believe that your amp has to be contributing something to the great sound.
And yes I AM JEALOUS.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

The amp is very 3D, I'll give it that. Not sure what it is, not sure how it does it, not sure of anything really but it does sound better than any other amp I've ever used. I've not had anything of this caliber before for sure. The German Hi Fi magazine apparently loves it...I think I'm beginning to understand why. 

BTW, it doesn't pull THAT much current in normal listening levels. I was sitting for 30+ minutes listening at a soothing level, and the voltage only dropped .1v during my engine-off session. I'm sure it can suck it up at high volumes, but the car is running then.


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

Hey 4th,

Does your car have stock NAV? And if so, does your old HU have a working CD player. And if so, would you like to get rid of it? And if so, I'll buy it from you. But only if, you don't gouge me.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Knobby Digital said:


> Hey 4th,
> 
> Does your car have stock NAV? And if so, does your old HU have a working CD player. And if so, would you like to get rid of it? And if so, I'll buy it from you. But only if, you don't gouge me.


I'm sorry, I didn't see your post dude! My stock stuff was just the non-nav, basic cd player. You wouldn't want, it trust me.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Oh yeah, I "haz" pics of the progress I have made on the vehicle:

The planned single AV15H was swapped for a pair of AV10H-D2's. I've got these wired up so they present a 2ohm load to my DTR 1.1700. It means I'm not running full-tilt, but it gets louder than I'd ever want to go so I'm happy.

This is the front stage with the A-pillar mounted Dayton ND20FA tweeters

















This is the Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD head unit









This is the HRU.4 mounted upright and visible through the ski-pass opening. I have placed a simple piece of carpet over the wires and such so it cleans the at-a-glance look of this spot































And the trunk, currently missing a few trim boards as the weather has turned too hot and this was as far as I could go before passing out in 106+ heat

























Once I get a few wires moved around and some beauty boards made, I'll be done. This was going to be a more involved, more complex build but I have decided this isn't a "keeper" vehicle so I kept my expenses of time and money to a minimum. Still, sounds really good and there is still plenty of trunk available which is important to me lately.

That's all for now!


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Looks like a nice setup.


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## EternalGraphics808 (Apr 28, 2009)

Still waiting on a true "review" of this amp....


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Still waiting on a true "review" of this amp....


Well I've got a few things in the way of a verdict, and let me explain... There is a 3sixty.2 in the mix, which is adding noise to an otherwise noiseless amp. And the stock Bose woofers are still intact in the front doors.

Barring those two things, this amp is amazing. There is no such thing as clipping, it is easy to connect and use, and it weighs a metric ton. Let me just say that I have always been in the "amps sound the same" camp, and although I still feel this is true to a certain degree, the HRU.4 skirts that limit by being completely transparent and undetectable in the signal chain. 

In short, if you don't care about space considerations, and power consumption at high loads, then I doubt you could pick a better amp for your front stage.


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## ReloadedSS (Aug 26, 2008)

Nice work as always, fourthmeal. The HRU amps look and appear to be amazing. If I weren't always so budget focused, I might give them a nod at some point. 

Subscribed.


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