# $75 Cadence CWM-6KIT 6.5" comps--new value leader?



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

Disclaimer: Sound Quality is subjective and this review should be used as a baseline of reference 

Background:
I have a teenaged young man named Kevin that keeps up my yard and grounds during the spring and summer months. It’s a father and son team. Over the years I’ve built a nice relationship with both of them. After having a discussion with Kevin a few weeks before Christmas, it was brought to my attention that he was trying to save up enough money to install a nice system in his 2006 Toyota Scion xB. As usual, he made stops at the local shops to inquire about prices. I was not shocked at the quotes that were given to him. I had a nice one-on-one tutorial with Kevin and told him what to look out for in order to make his first audio system special.

I felt a compelling need to help out this young man. My wife and I admire him on so many levels. I just haven’t ran into many teenagers or 20 something’s that are respectful, level headed, and don’t have the attitude that they have the answer for everything. This kid has an amazing way of seeing the world through the eyes of others and not just his small little area of society. His parents did a hell of a job!! Plus, he is going to my old alma mamma for college; good ol’ Vandy! I must note he obtained a full ride scholarship as well.

The hardware:
After surfing the net and my storage house, I managed to come up with a few items for him. I picked up a new Cadence TX-6004 4 channel amplifier, 150x2+600x1, and a set of Cadence comps, CWM-6KIT. Both were shipped for around $250. Kevin didn’t know that he was also going to be a guinea pig for me as well. I’ve been curious about the Cadence comps for a while. With a price of $ 75 shipped, who wouldn’t be curious?
I inspected the hardware from Cadence upon its arrival. The amp is LARGE, with a nice board layout. Much more than what I expected for the price. 
The comps are very well made. The woofer has a vented pole piece, aluminum cone, gold plated connectors, beefy voice coils, and a nice heavy 20 oz magnet. Honda owners will have to use spacers for sure. The woofer is right at 3 inches in depth. Moving along to the tweeter, it’s a 1 inch silk dome, with mounting hardware for flush or surface swivel mounting pods. Packaging was also top notch. Cadence included a simple, but nice instruction manual with the comps. I found it shocking they also had a response measurement graph within the packet. A very nice touch for a $75 pair of speakers. I’ve known comp sets to cost 2-3 times as much that didn’t include this information. Passive crossovers are set at 12db per oct, but I couldn’t find where the X over point setting anywhere in the information. Overall though, still well worth $75 on just construction alone.
Subwoofer duty came in the form of an ID 12 D2 that I had laying around.
I built a basic 1.75 cf ported box, tuned @30hz. I wrapped the box with black automotive carpet. The sub and vent are firing in the upward position. I also had some Rammat and Ensolite I had left over from another project that I was going to give to him as well.
A couple of days before Christmas, my wife and I stopped by Kevin’s house to drop off his Christmas gift from us. I knew that he would be shocked. He already had a Pioneer 880 installed in his xB (he picked it up on eBay for $175 shipped). Kevin’s eyes beamed like Christmas tree lights after showing him the goods. He hugged us and told me his friends would install everything over the break.

The review:
Last weekend I had a chance to catch up with Kevin. The install was nothing short of professional. His friends mounted the Cadence amp in the rear next to the sub. They also installed two small fans within the amp rack in a “push-pull” array to ensure that party will never stop. The mids were installed in the door and 1” silk domes were mounted in the dash. Ensolite and Rammat were installed in the doors and rear area of the hatch. 
Kevin fired up a CD that he recorded with his jazz band at school and a few other “test” cds. First thing I noticed was how wide and deep his soundstage was. We all know that soundstage depth is hard to achieve in many installs. Midbass was solid, very solid. The type of midbass you can feel at the bottom of your legs. Vocals were strong, but maybe not as strong as some would like. B.B. King did sound very natural within the stage. At times imaging would “wonder” a bit with some tracks, but nothing seriously bad. Kevin noted that the 1” silk domes were a tad bright and his friend made some cuts with the 880. The entire time I couldn’t believe I was listening to a $75 dollar pair of comps.
After further investigation, I found out that the install was running active?? Wow. His friend did a hell of a good job, but meanwhile in conversation, Kevin’s friend works for a local install shop part time and views this forum consistently LOL!! Small world. I was also informed that the comps do sound well with the passives, but due to the tweeter mounted in the dash area, Kevin’s bud wanted a little bit more control. Smart.
The tweeters are being driven off of the Pioneer 880, Mids 150x2 and 600x1 to the ID sub all from the Cadence Amp.
Side note: I had forgotten how good the ID subs were. In fact, I don’t know why they are not more highly regarded than the IDQ. The ID digs deeper and $$$ cheaper than the IDQ. Better build quality as well in my book. It’s 2008 and the IDQ’s are still using spade terminals???
Overall, this is a damn good comp set. I think this should be the new value leader. I feel this comp set would still be worth the value if priced at $150 shipped. I ordered another pair just to have. I know the PG vs. Cadence question will pop up. After spending time with the PG set, I would have to go with the Cadence, only because of the extra saving. Performance wise is close, maybe the PG set taking the victory. PG’s have just a tad more midbass, but both are smooth movers. For $ 75 bucks, I’ll go with the Cadence with some minor tuning. On overall great value that should be looked at.

Cadence CWM-6KIT
For the tecs:
4ohm
Fo (res freq) 55 hz
Qms( Mech Q) 9.4323
Qes (Elec Q) .7701
Ots (Total Q) .7120
Vas .36 cu ft

Allow Bullet Phasing Plug
6.5” Midbass, 3 inches deep
20oz magnet
gold plated spade plugs

Tweeter:
1” Silk Soft Dome
Ferro-Fluid Voice Coil 

Crossover:
12db/oct
??? Xover point

System:
100 rms/200 peak
fq rs 65hz-22K
Sens [email protected] 1w/1m


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## azngotskills

Thanks for the review!


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## elminster

I think you just made my day man, nice review and even a nice story =)


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## JAX

I had 2 sets of them before...to bad my install wasnt any good so I didnt get the most out of them...seemed like good stuff for the money to me as well...


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## unpredictableacts

I have installed these before.....and in all honesty was somewhat disappointed in them.


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## rekd0514

Did you find out the screen name of the person who did the install? Good review and are possibly another great option for the $$$ at the moment.


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## elminster

unpredictableacts said:


> I have installed these before.....and in all honesty was somewhat disappointed in them.


are those planet audio comps in the door pods?


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## unpredictableacts

elminster said:


> are those planet audio comps in the door pods?


its a 2 way 5.25", but yes they are PA.


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## buddha73

i would recommend these as a budget set, i have mine runnin off a cadence 6004, once it finally warms up here in MI i'll actually be able to deaden my doors and i'm sure they'll sound better. but for $80 you can't beat them.


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## JayBee

so is that a conical dust cap or a phase plug in the mid?


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## Oliver

JayBee said:


> so is that a conical dust cap or a phase plug in the mid?


from spec sheet above
Allow Bullet Phasing Plug


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## optimaprime

any body else use these components? iam thinking really hard about them . 
very nice review   it a lone has almost convinced me to buy them and run them in the factory spots in my 03 envoy off of a zed built opti 100.2


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## Kahooli

I had them in my first install. very good sounding for the money. was running passive. A good install does them justice. a bad install makes people blame their equipment...common mistake.


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## johnya84

So how would you guys run an active setup for the cadence? 
Will this work, just for the front stage tho the mids run to the amp on a 4 channel amp and tweeters run to the hu using a p880prs? 
And the rear speaker will probably be eD 6000vs2 or the same cadence but not run active. 
Will that work or will it ruin the active setup in the front?


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## mvw2

unpredictableacts said:


> I have installed these before.....and in all honesty was somewhat disappointed in them.


Couple Q's for clarification.
Were both sets of speakers playing at the same time?
Is that kick panel vented or sealed?


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## GlasSman

JayBee said:


> so is that a conical dust cap or a phase plug in the mid?


From the pics it looks like a dust cap.


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## LDW3RD

I had 2 sets of these in a sorta JL Audio VW set up (in my 95 dodge minivan) w/the 6's side by side and the tweet in the middl at the top of the pair and the othr pr of tweets mount on the dash far forward off axis. I used the passive xovr. 

They sounded wonderful never shrillest or overly bright. I was always complimented on how good my minivan sounded I had the sets power off a Diamond Audio D5300.4.

My install was not exceptional but I did have the doors dampened and sealed just ok. My Xovrs didn't last long, I believe they would have lasted longer had I mounted them more securely and out of the way.

I'd buy this Cadence set again (altough I have anthr set BNIB) and recommend this cadence set to any one looking for good inexpensive sound.


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## LDW3RD

I had 2 sets of these in a sorta JL Audio VW GTI set up(in my 95 dodge minivan) w/the 6's side by side and the tweet in the middl at the top of the pair and the othr pr of tweets mount on the dash far forward off axis. I used the passive xovr. 

They sounded wonderful never shrillest or overly bright. I was always complimented on how good my minivan sounded I had the sets power off a Diamond Audio D5300.4.

My install was not exceptional but I did have the doors dampened and sealed just ok. My Xovrs didn't last long, I believe they would have lasted longer had I mounted them more securely and out of the way.

I'd buy this Cadence set again (altough I have anthr set BNIB) and recommend this cadence set to any one looking for good inexpensive sound.


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## jisturm

I have installed roughly 15 sets of these in many budget set-ups for friends. I love them for the money. I had a set of these in my old Focus, with a set of the 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors. Sound great with 75 watts of power and had plenty of midbass with no audible harshness to me. Still love them.


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## Kuztimrodder

Where did you buy these at that price? They may be perfect for a Challenger I'm building.


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## jisturm

ebay


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## optimaprime

you can get them from cadence , cadencestore.com in the outlet store. 75 bones


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## 328iBMW

Thanks for posting. Good read.

How can he go active on that head unit when it only crosses at 200 Hz and below?


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## 328iBMW

328iBMW said:


> Thanks for posting. Good read.
> 
> How can he go active on that head unit when it only crosses at 200 Hz and below?


You can't go active with that headunit, right?


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## chadillac3

328iBMW said:


> Thanks for posting. Good read.
> 
> How can he go active on that head unit when it only crosses at 200 Hz and below?


Not correct. 880prs can do a LP on the midrange that is much, much higher than 200 Hz. If you were reading the manual, make sure you understand the difference between network and normal mode.


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## 328iBMW

chadillac3 said:


> Not correct. 880prs can do a LP on the midrange that is much, much higher than 200 Hz. If you were reading the manual, make sure you understand the difference between network and normal mode.


I'm just going by the website. So it can cross up to ~4k Hz? I havn't been able to find a head unit that can do that for less than $800. But I hope that I'm wrong.


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## khail19

328iBMW said:


> I'm just going by the website. So it can cross up to ~4k Hz? I havn't been able to find a head unit that can do that for less than $800. But I hope that I'm wrong.


The website only shows the normal mode features, in PRO mode it can run active 2 way + sub.

There are plenty of HUs out that can cross the mid/tweet at 4K. Most for way less than $800. Not a complete list, just what's in my head right now.

Eclipse CD8053, 8443, 8454, 8455, 7000, 7100, 7200
Alpine 9887, 9855, 9853, 9835, 9833, 9815, 9815, 7998, 7897
Clarion DXZ775USB and DRZ9255
Pioneer 880PRS, 800PRS, 860MP, 960MP


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## 328iBMW

khail19 said:


> The website only shows the normal mode features, in PRO mode it can run active 2 way + sub.
> 
> There are plenty of HUs out that can cross the mid/tweet at 4K. Most for way less than $800. Not a complete list, just what's in my head right now.
> 
> Eclipse CD8053, 8443, 8454, 8455, 7000, 7100, 7200
> Alpine 9887, 9855, 9853, 9835, 9833, 9815, 9815, 7998, 7897
> Clarion DXZ775USB and DRZ9255
> Pioneer 880PRS, 800PRS, 860MP, 960MP


Thanks man, I'm so glad to hear that. All of the websites say 200 Hz or something. I'm gonna have to get a head unit now.

J


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## Hillbilly SQ

you are by far the most generous person i've ever talked to online sharpie. glad your guinne pig is happy with his new setup


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## kornsined

Between these and the PG RSD's are they pretty equal? I'm sure the Cadence CVL-6k set is just that much better.


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## snaimpally

Dr. T,

How do the Cadence compare to the RSDs? I think a battle of the ultra cheap comps is needed.


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## illnastyimpreza

any updates on these badboys? anyone else try em ?


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## niceguy

I'm planning on it if some money I'm expecting comes in....I know it's the nature of the beast, but I hate that the comps jump in price once the forums go crazy over them....

Best price is $89 shipped from the Cadence direct store on ebay. Still not bad but nearly 50% more than the PG RSDs....with that said, the old reviews I dug up felt the midbass was comparable to the PGs w/better midrange (or possibly due to better xover points) and good highs....

I may just wait for a decent used pair to pop up, see how the funds go....
It would be nice to be able to throw these in the car and be happy for a change without spending hours tuning...

Jeremy


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## douggiestyle

Old thread, I know, but just installed the mids for a buddy this past weekend. Build quality is pretty good. These are heavy and have a rubber magnet cover that I wound up removing to get them to fit. Magnet is pretty big so keep that in mind for installs (the guy I got them from couldn't get the mids to fit)

Ran them w/ Blau VC100 tweeters and crossovers, I believe the crossover point was 3K

I didn't get much time to mess around with them, but in an untreated door, they sounded very solid, vocals were smooth and there was good separation and detail when multiple instruments were playing at the same time (used Kill Bill OST)

Definitely a great budget buy, I'm not sure why these fly so far under the radar, but I wouldn't hesitate to run them again for a budget build


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## freemind

unpredictableacts said:


> I have installed these before.....and in all honesty was somewhat disappointed in them.


Four tweeters on your front stage?

No effing wonder it sounded like ****.


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## Exit9

I bought the Cadence CWM-6KIT 6.5" speaker set largely based on the first post in this thread. I installed them in the front doors of a six-speaker 09 Corolla LE in the factory locations. Right now that is the only improvement I have made. The bass from the factory rear 6x9s blends smoothly with the Cadence speakers in the front and it sounds very good to me. 

The factory 6-CD Changer (Fujitsu Ten) puts out clean enough sound that I can not hear any distortion (despite rumors to the contrary). The Cadences sound extremely smooth and clear and I can not hear any distortion. This is about 95% of the sound I was shootiing for and I could stop with this one modification and be satisfied. The CWM-6KIT speakers have a 93 dB sensitivity, so they go more than loud enough off of the factory 6-CD Changer in this car. I also put in a Dynamat Extreme sound deading kit for the front doors on the inside of the outer door metal.

I played a lot of rock music and it all sounded good, but the best test discs were Led Zepplin's live 3-CD set "How the West Was Won." On these CDs the bass goes deep and intense enough that you can feel the front woofer's bass vibrate your leg. The whole car resonates with the bass guitar and drums. The drums have a sharp impact to their sound which indicates to me that the speakers have good transient response. The vocals and guitar also sound clear and balanced. The system rocks.

I might have stopped here but I already bought: 6x9s (rear deck), RF 3SIXTY.1 processor, 4-ch amp subwoofer,subwoofer amp, and wiring kit. It is too late to return them, so I guess I will finish the project and see if I get more improvements. 

In my opinion, these Cadence CWWM-6KIT 6.5" component speakers are definitely the way to go for 10th generation Toyota Corollas. The interior near the sail panel tweeter is mostly glass and reflective hard plastic, and the Cadences still sound good in this application. I set the included speaker crossovers to -2 db setting to tone down the treble and it is right onl. All CD changer controls are set to their neutral positions and I have not felt the need to change any setting. 

So basically, for the latest generation Corolla, this one "door speakers & Dynamat" modification is "as is" out of the box. For other applications, I think the Cadences would sound equally fine, but each car has its own acoustics to consider and each person has their own sound preferences. The Cadences are just a very-good low-cost alternative.


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## fertigaudio

I know this post is dated but for the user reading up on these and trying to make a decision to buy them if you can find them now. I had these 10 years ago and paid nearly 200 for them then. It was a great speaker setup and every time I see a set it takes me back to college years. They were great speakers and sounded fine in a deadened door. Wish I had known they were so popular, I would have bought another set in the past few years for that price! Thanks for the reviews and pics. Miss my old car that was worth less than the audio inside it. :laugh:


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## stilzz

I have these speakers in my rear doors. I have blown the tweeter. When they were working they are just ok. They are muddy. The midrange is pretty strong just not a transient, airy, hifonic or ambient sound. Decent mid bass. Voices are not good nor crisp. If you compare it with any any other descent speaker you can really hear the difference. They dont sound any better than a infinity reference coax if you want to compare.


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## snaimpally

stilzz said:


> *I have these speakers in my rear doors*. I have blown the tweeter. When they were working they are just ok. They are muddy. The midrange is pretty strong just not a transient, airy, hifonic or ambient sound. Decent mid bass. Voices are not good nor crisp. If you compare it with any any other descent speaker you can really hear the difference. They dont sound any better than a infinity reference coax if you want to compare.


I suspect that one of the differences is that the OP had the speakers mounted in the front while you have them mounted in the rear doors. That could certainly account for the lack of crispness.


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## WhyUmad

Just picked up a set of ebay for 59 shipped, at that price why not test them out


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## trojan fan

WhyUmad said:


> Just picked up a set of ebay for 59 shipped, at that price why not test them out



What are you expecting for $60 speakers....LOL


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## RADRaze2KX

I don't personally have the CWM-6KIT, but I have the Cadence ZRS-6K components and these things rock. My ex blew one woofer and tweeter though, so I ordered another pair (and have 1 woofer/tweeter/crossover to spair now). I also got the CVLS-65 coax speakers, and holy cow. It's amazing. I'll post a full review if anybody's interested. But I didn't want to thread jack.


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## 96jimmyslt

RADRaze2KX said:


> I don't personally have the CWM-6KIT, but I have the Cadence ZRS-6K components and these things rock. My ex blew one woofer and tweeter though, so I ordered another pair (and have 1 woofer/tweeter/crossover to spair now). I also got the CVLS-65 coax speakers, and holy cow. It's amazing. I'll post a full review if anybody's interested. But I didn't want to thread jack.


How did she blow them? Just too loud?


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## RADRaze2KX

Yea, the volume was cranked to 45 (amplified speakers) and she was song surfing and sampling my iPod... she came across a rock song that started out real heavy from a dead silence and the first note, I heard it clip and pop... it was so loud, the titanium tweeter blew part of the dome off, and the woofer was clipping ever since then...

That was bad tuning on my part, I still don't know where I can find someone with a digital oscilloscope so I can tune it correctly, but I've since turned the gain down on the amp for my fronts and rears... as I said, I replaced the old pair with a new one and the sound is just awesome. I listen to everything from Opera to Rap, mostly EDM, hip-hop, R&B, and top 40's, but country, jazz, opera, classical and everything else I've played in my car sounds great.


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## 96jimmyslt

RADRaze2KX said:


> Yea, the volume was cranked to 45 (amplified speakers) and she was song surfing and sampling my iPod... she came across a rock song that started out real heavy from a dead silence and the first note, I heard it clip and pop... it was so loud, the titanium tweeter blew part of the dome off, and the woofer was clipping ever since then...
> 
> That was bad tuning on my part, I still don't know where I can find someone with a digital oscilloscope so I can tune it correctly, but I've since turned the gain down on the amp for my fronts and rears... as I said, I replaced the old pair with a new one and the sound is just awesome. I listen to everything from Opera to Rap, mostly EDM, hip-hop, R&B, and top 40's, but country, jazz, opera, classical and everything else I've played in my car sounds great.


This is why I tune the head unit at MAX volume, so it NEVER goes above that.

I find the songs that hit hardest, and tune the gains to that.


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## RADRaze2KX

True, I could do that, but I'd still prefer to do it with an o-scope  They're all over the place in Phoenix, but I'm currently living in a small, technology-stupid town in Texas.


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## 96jimmyslt

Got them in the mail just now. 2 days to ship.

Weight: definitely a much BIGGER magnet than the polk BD651's. The rubber magnet cover is great. Really makes them higher-end looking and feeling.

Visual inspection: some excess glue on the phase plug/dust cap

Two small dents on one of the cones. Nothing serious. Pen tip size. Doesn't seem to affect performance.

Crossover: screws ridiculously tight initially. -3, 0, +3 db adjustment. Small bit of plastic scraped on the capacitor or one of the internal things.

Sound quality: Put them in the door, and they sound great. Be sure to use the +3 DB adjustment.

Here is a vid. At one minute, I turned the subs off. BTW this video is with only ONE tweeter and mid. 4080dsm, gain maxed out, treble on amp at 75%. No distortion, only hurt my ears a little maxed out. At 1:21 they REALLY scream.

The decibel adjustment on the crossovers seem to control the bass AND treble, but only the treble is really noticeable since I have them on a high pass filter amp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jatxpmYqfMQ


Installed the passenger side. 
Not exactly a perfect fit on the mid but it works.
A bit too deep. Well, the mounting ring, the back of it, is too wide for the opening. It's like a pivoted ball, if you know what I mean.

Going to get a second pair for the rear doors.


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## rob b.

Can anyone give me some good measurements on these things, I'm trying to figure out if i can fit em flush mounted, they say 3" mounting depth which seems pretty deep. i just need to know the diameter of the magnet and the depth from the very top to very bottom of the speaker.


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## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> Can anyone give me some good measurements on these things, I'm trying to figure out if i can fit em flush mounted, they say 3" mounting depth which seems pretty deep. i just need to know the diameter of the magnet and the depth from the very top to very bottom of the speaker.


If you can edit some example pictures so I know exactly what you need, I will.

I had to cut the rubber on the end of the window guide, take the rubber off the magnet, and cut the plastic mount on the door to make them fit, but it was worth it.


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## rob b.

Im looking for these dims










I know I'm going to have to at least lose my lower window guide and cut some sheet metal out, I'm just afraid they wont fit at all because of the window motor.


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## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> Im looking for these dims
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I'm going to have to at least lose my lower window guide and cut some sheet metal out, I'm just afraid they wont fit at all because of the window motor.


What vehicle, and any pictures of where they are going? (without the stock speaker)

I need to fine tune the tweeter holes anyway, so I gotta take the door panels off one last time and I will take some pics with a tape measure first thing for you. Give me a couple minutes.


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## rob b.

chevy truck, the problem is the upper one. i have it so the back of the pods sit outside the pocket so they stick out an inch or so taller then stock. I cant mount them on the outside without hacking the basket up to clear the tweeter so they have to mount flush on the back side. i could probably thin the rings out another 1/4" and glass the backside for strength. without cutting anything though as it sits i only have about 2".


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## 96jimmyslt

Here are some pictures.

I never understood how to read a tape measure...not yet anyway.


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## rob b.

Awesome, much appreciated 96jimmy.


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## rob b.

looks like i will definitely need to cut some sheetmetal and lose the lower window guide, it should be very close to hitting the window regulator mounting rail and motor. worst case scenario i will have to cut the rings down realy thin and just realy glass em up good for strength. gonna order a couple sets tomorrow.


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## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> looks like i will definitely need to cut some sheetmetal and lose the lower window guide, it should be very close to hitting the window regulator mounting rail and motor. worst case scenario i will have to cut the rings down realy thin and just realy glass em up good for strength. gonna order a couple sets tomorrow.


Why not just extend the speaker mounts outward?


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## rob b.

the speakers are going to mount on the back side of the pod, no grilles. i should have made them stick out further before i did the glass, but i didn't want it to look too aggressive...


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## 96jimmyslt

Why not put them outside and then use the grills?


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## rob b.

like this


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## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> like this


Hmm, well you haven't painted it, maybe just make them go on the outside, sitting out?

Or extend the mount or w/e that is itself from the door panel


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## mike123d

I really wish it was closer to Christmas! Great post/review. I am very curious to hear what the mid bass would sound like with those.


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## JayinMI

96jimmyslt said:


> How did she blow them?


Maybe that's why she's his "ex." 

Jay


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## 96jimmyslt

Ordered a second pair.

Should I put the amp on full pass for these? Or keep them on high pass?


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## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> Can anyone give me some good measurements on these things, I'm trying to figure out if i can fit em flush mounted, they say 3" mounting depth which seems pretty deep. i just need to know the diameter of the magnet and the depth from the very top to very bottom of the speaker.


Can't believe I missed this...doh'



Edit: it doesn't have the end of the magnet to the inside of the mounting screws measurement.


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## 92SS Wagon

96jimmyslt said:


> Weight: definitely a much BIGGER magnet than the polk BD651's. The rubber magnet cover is great. Really makes them higher-end looking and feeling.


how did the sound of these compare with the Polk DB's????Thanks


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## 96jimmyslt

92SS Wagon said:


> how did the sound of these compare with the Polk DB's????Thanks


Well, it has it's own crossover box and a 1" tweeter, and much bigger magnet...

They sound a lot clearer to me. I put the crossovers on "neutral". They go -3, 0, +3 db.

I am satisfied with them.

For $60 shipped, you can't go wrong trying out a pair.

I uploaded some videos on youtube in the garage demoing them...going to do some outside soon.

I can take a vid/voice note comparing the 2 with the same settings if you want. I wouldn't buy the db651's unless you are limited on space, like the jimmy is. But I did some slight modification and got them in there.


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## 92SS Wagon

96jimmyslt said:


> Well, it has it's own crossover box and a 1" tweeter, and much bigger magnet...
> 
> They sound a lot clearer to me. I put the crossovers on "neutral". They go -3, 0, +3 db.
> 
> I am satisfied with them.
> 
> For $60 shipped, you can't go wrong trying out a pair.
> 
> I uploaded some videos on youtube in the garage demoing them...going to do some outside soon.
> 
> I can take a vid/voice note comparing the 2 with the same settings if you want. I wouldn't buy the db651's unless you are limited on space, like the jimmy is. But I did some slight modification and got them in there.


I thought you were comparing to the DB components.Still a huge difference thanks for the pics.

I think I am maybe limited on space. I have a Chevy Silverado and was wanting something for the front doors.I'll have to measure and see if I can make them work.

Thanks alot for taking the time to post all the info I appreciate it


----------



## Jsracing

Hows the midbass on these? Pretty strong? I'm looking for a bit more midbass and am thinking about adding the the midbass drivers only.


----------



## rob b.

the mid bass on these are very strong, realy the best part of the kit IMO.


----------



## esseph

rob b. said:


> the mid bass on these are very strong, realy the best part of the kit IMO.


I just got a Cadence Flash F100-5 (which does NOT output 1800 watts in any way, shape, or form, but still seems like a solid amp), and a set of ZRS6K components. I'm still working on the install. The biggest problem I have/had is not the tweeters, but the mids are MASSIVE.


----------



## RoboticPotPie

96jimmyslt said:


> Can't believe I missed this...doh'
> 
> *snip*


Hey very helpful picture thanks! 

Do you know the measurements for the tweeter too? 
If I get this kit, I'd like to see if the holes from my old tweeters can be reused.


----------



## Jsracing

Just received the CWM-6 Kit today to install in my friend's Mazda 3. It looks quite nice. One midbass has some glue residue on the cone and part of the frame, so not the cleanest mfg, but still looks quite nice. The frame is pretty thin and more resonant sounding than other stamped frames I've seen from Morel and others. Crossovers look pretty decent, especially for the price.
I need to have a 6x8 to 6.5 baffle made to fit my friend's car. Really looking forward to hear how these perform. If they sound decent, these are a super bargain!


----------



## rob b.

does anyone else think that these things have super, and i mean SUPER, harsh sounding tweeters? I want to know if there is something wrong with my setup or if should only expect horrible sounding tweeters from this set? it sounds like no good equalizer would even help its so bad. I cant hardly even hear the mids these tweeters are so in your face and i have the two sets mounted in the doors because i wanted the tweets to sound mellow.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> does anyone else think that these things have super, and i mean SUPER, harsh sounding tweeters? I want to know if there is something wrong with my setup or if should only expect horrible sounding tweeters from this set? it sounds like no good equalizer would even help its so bad. I cant hardly even hear the mids these tweeters are so in your face and i have the two sets mounted in the doors because i wanted the tweets to sound mellow.


What amp and head unit?

Have you tried moving the decibel switch on the crossover box? I put mine on the neutral position.

They sound super nice on my setup tbh at least with classic rock (player - baby come back, heart - various songs)

What music are you playing?


----------



## rob b.

its a planet audio rx series, 4x75wrms @ 4ohm, stock head unit. I have an alpine head on the way but I'm worried it wont help since most stock heads pull treble out as the volume goes up. crossovers are on -3. they sound pretty decent with some classic rock and country, but some hard metal is just painful sounding. rap sounds fine... but rap sounds fine on anything that has subs and power lol.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> its a planet audio rx series, 4x75wrms @ 4ohm, stock head unit. I have an alpine head on the way but I'm worried it wont help since most stock heads pull treble out as the volume goes up. crossovers are on -3. they sound pretty decent with some classic rock and country, but some hard metal is just painful sounding. rap sounds fine... but rap sounds fine on anything that has subs and power lol.


Well you just explained that it's the source material, not the hardware 

I don't believe rap sounds good with just bass.

Most rap is very poorly recorded (or, not recorded at all, just a sound board with added A cappella)

I don't think you will find many rap songs that are as good studio quality as classic rock is. I think it's mainly because classic rock is recorded in a studio with all instruments...

I play some slayer and it's also harsh...

Main point: it's the music itself, not the speakers!


----------



## rob b.

I don't think so, I'm sure that its true to an extent, but im talking about so harsh that the common guys that listen to it think something is broken. like painfully hard crackin scratchy sounding highs. rap is just too simple to notice issues is all.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> I don't think so, I'm sure that its true to an extent, but im talking about so harsh that the common guys that listen to it think something is broken. like painfully hard crackin scratchy sounding highs. rap is just too simple to notice issues is all.


I think there is something wrong with your setup, because I get nothing but compliments from them.


----------



## rob b.

must be. hopefully a new head unit will be the magic fix.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

When I had the DP video head unit, it would make a loud thump in the sub when I shut the car off.

It also only had a basic bass/treble adjustment.

What kind of EQ does your current unit have?

Does it let you adjust the frequencies at all?

My alpine CDM-9801 sort of does. Although back when I was using it, I never knew what the numbers meant, lol...


----------



## rob b.

the equalizers are near worthless on both units, just bass and treble... I'm just hoping the stock head does some weird things as the volume goes up to match the stock speakers, like change the curve with higher volume.


----------



## rob b.

alright new head unit, and no change at all. 

I'm actually really pissed off i spent my money and time with these speakers. im sending them hardly 50 watts and they sound awful.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> alright new head unit, and no change at all.
> 
> I'm actually really pissed off i spent my money and time with these speakers. im sending them hardly 50 watts and they sound awful.


pleeeeease don't tell me you are running them off the head unit?


----------



## rob b.

no, 4x75wrms @ 4 ohm planet audio rx series.

i just checked them out andafter 5-10 min of use one tweeter is too hot to touch and the other has a melted crossover again....

i spent over 50 hours of work making fiberglass pods that hold those tweeters.

this is the third set of tweeters and crossovers under warrenty, im absolutely disgusted right now.


----------



## rob b.

has anyone successfully run these with a decent size amp?


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> no, 4x75wrms @ 4 ohm planet audio rx series.
> 
> i just checked them out andafter 5-10 min of use one tweeter is too hot to touch and the other has a melted crossover again....
> 
> i spent over 50 hours of work making fiberglass pods that hold those tweeters.
> 
> this is the third set of tweeters and crossovers under warrenty, im absolutely disgusted right now.


Man, I really wonder what is happening with the ones you are getting.

The only problem I had with these, is one crossover box had a loose connection to the circled component (I don't know the name)




I just pushed it over with a pen and it's fine now.

They are $60, so it's to be expected, really...but I think your rate of failure with these is abnormal


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> has anyone successfully run these with a decent size amp?


Define "decent size"

I have ran these in normal mode and bridged mode on a 4080dsm.

I might even try these on my p500-2 which does 125w rms @ 4ohms


----------



## rob b.

The resistor at the top is for the tweeter, and is the one that always melts on me. if you look at what that resistor looks like on a better crossover you would be surprised. I didn't expect them to handle rated, but how i had my amp set, i should have been around half of rated so...

now im thinking about buying some dayton crossovers and vifa tweeters. this car audio stuff seems like it sucks compared to home audio anyways. at least the mids seem pretty good.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> this car audio stuff seems like it sucks compared to home audio anyways. at least the mids seem pretty good.


I don't touch home audio, at all.

I have a logitech x-230 for my computer and I'm happy with it.

Just get some kicker or polk coaxials.

the db461 and db651's sound great IMO for the price and size.

No offense but it sounds like you don't know what you are doing...

I have some vids in my youtube demoing the components in both free air and installed in the doors. Both sound great, loud and clear.

I think you have something wired wrong...

Have you tried asking best buy, local car audio shop or someone on CL to look at it?


----------



## rob b.

I know what im doing, everything is wired properly. I'm ase certified in electrical. its pretty simple stuff.


----------



## rob b.

okay, further investigation reveals only one tweeter shorted, and i caught it quick enough that the crossover still works, although obvious signs of overheating are noticeable. i think i am just demanding too much of these tweeters, and i dont care for the sound of metallic tweeters anyways so im just going to order a set of vifa soft domes rated for 50wrms and see if i they sound alright before i just ditch the whole set.

but after unhooking the blown tweet and the lower on the other side (two tweets, 4 mids) it already sounds allot better, the problem i think was just truely overpowering loud trebble. it could just be the amp, iether way i think some new tweeters and a good equalizer will do the trick. an EQ or some padding resistors probably would've saved the old tweets...


----------



## rob b.

96jimmyslt said:


> I don't touch home audio, at all.
> 
> I have a logitech x-230 for my computer and I'm happy with it.
> 
> Just get some kicker or polk coaxials.
> 
> the db461 and db651's sound great IMO for the price and size.
> 
> No offense but it sounds like you don't know what you are doing...
> 
> I have some vids in my youtube demoing the components in both free air and installed in the doors. Both sound great, loud and clear.
> 
> I think you have something wired wrong...
> 
> Have you tried asking best buy, local car audio shop or someone on CL to look at it?


hey no offense but the guys at bust buy are morons, and i do take offense to that. sorry if i sounded like an ass, i don't want to start a pissing match.


----------



## RowJoe

I work at BBY. I remember one time when a customer asked if we had any 4-way active HUs and I named a couple. Got to hear his high-end Morel front stage, nice subs, and some crazy expensive amps. That was pretty cool.

Anyway, point is some people at BBY know what they're talking about. Our prices typically suck, though.


----------



## rob b.

RowJoe said:


> I work at BBY. I remember one time when a customer asked if we had any 4-way active HUs and I named a couple. Got to hear his high-end Morel front stage, nice subs, and some crazy expensive amps. That was pretty cool.
> 
> Anyway, point is some people at BBY know what they're talking about. Our prices typically suck, though.


yea, every once in a great while i come across an employee that knows his stuff, that goes with any retail store. i was just talking generally.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> hey no offense but the guys at bust buy are morons, and i do take offense to that. sorry if i sounded like an ass, i don't want to start a pissing match.


I wasn't trying to be rude man, so I also apologize.

But I mean, I have almost zero experience with car audio and these sound great for me and I've had zero problems with them...

Sounds like you just got repeated DOA units or just demand too much from them, like you said.

I know these aren't top of the line, but I think they are great for a first set of components and would like to see people trying them out.

So maybe these are just for beginners...?


----------



## roseda91

nice review


----------



## rob b.

maybe, i think that my amp puts out way more then rated too. because i have rxd1000 on my subs that i measured at 1400rms @60hz with 14v. i haven't measured the speaker amp yet. they are both rated at 13v too, so you never know.

now I'm just deciding weather or not i should get 2 or 4 new tweeters, being that it doesn't sound lacking at all with 2 tweets and 4 mids...


----------



## rob b.

Ordered a couple of vifa BC25SC06-04's and some 20w 4ohm resistors just in case they're still too harsh for my taste. I'll let everyone know how my hybrid component set up sounds when its done, hopefully it'll be good.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

Just switched some wires around on my amp.

Noticed the right rear door wasn't playing.

Inspected it, and the component in the crossover for the mid apparently, is broken on one side. Just the small wire going into the board that I can't see.

Tweeter still works though.

Going to try to get the seller on ebay to exchange both crossover boxes now. He agreed to exchange one, but this was within the return period.

I might try to get it to work but I'll probably end up sending them back in.

DO. NOT. BUY. THESE..

Unless you like flimsy crossover boxes that you will almost definitely have to work on, fix, or re-enforce.

I think if the crossover box was a little stronger built, these would have my approval.

The front ones seem fine though. I put the crossover inside the door panel. In the rear, they are in the pocket of the door.


----------



## rob b.

yea i noticed my crossovers run pretty hot, when they go im just gonna buy some Dayton crossovers... so then i will be hanging on to the mid woofers and call the rest of the kit junk...


----------



## 96jimmyslt

rob b. said:


> yea i noticed my crossovers run pretty hot, when they go im just gonna buy some Dayton crossovers... so then i will be hanging on to the mid woofers and call the rest of the kit junk...


What do you have the switch set at?

I have them all on the middle.

I really am disappointed in the structural integrity/construction of the crossovers.


----------



## rob b.

-3 and i have a 4ohm 20 watt series resistor on top of that.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

how much juice are you giving them?


----------



## rob b.

23V AC at 4 ohms continuous with a 1khz test tone should mean 135Wrms unless my math is wrong. the amp is not clipping either.

and i don't listen at full volume most of the time.


----------



## 96jimmyslt

Attempted to fix the crossover and failed.

I have the rear passenger running straight from the amp at what I think is 2 ohms (amp > wires > tweeter positive and negative tied together with woofer positive an negative)

Sounds loud and clear. Amp has high pass card in. No gain, no treble or bass boost.

All in all still a bit disappointed in these but I did get the warranty on one pair, so I can get my money back/one pair replaced.

$60 for 2 x 1" tweeters and 6.5" mids that sound much better than stock on an amp I paid $40 for? Not a bad deal. I would suggest adding hot glue to the bar wrapped in the burgundy colored wire (sorry don't know the name)

These seem to be the only weak link in the boxes.


----------



## rob b.

Yea, i have noticed all the better component crossovers and home audio crossovers use air core inductors. the iron core ones on these just look small and cheap.


----------



## monoxide101

I recently installed these in my girlfriends car and we both hate them. The sound quality is not that great, at times the tweeter has a ton of distortion (I'm guessing this is part of the crossover issue people are talking about). One big complaint is that the only speaker you hear is the one on your side, when you're driving you can't even tell there's sound coming from the passenger side - and vice-versa. I know the woofer in the door and tweet in the sail panel isn't ideal, but damn, it's bad. These tweets are HARSH! I had high hopes for these, because after lot of research I thought these would be the best bang for the buck. Now I feel that I could have went to Walmart and gotten a better speaker. I am not even a little bit satisfied with these.


----------



## Jsracing

Put a set of these on my friends mazda 3. The tweeters are harsh for me, but he likes the brightness a at the 0db setting. Lots of midbass and we deadened the doors pretty well. The midbasses are finish o strong points of this set. I agree, I personally dont like the tweeters. But my friend is happy with them for now, especially for $60. I'm trying to convince him to get a set of rainbow or morel for his other car. Of he does, maybe he'll eventually change out these cadence.


----------



## c_nitty

NEW Cadence CWM-6KIT Aluminum 6.5" Component Kit | eBay


----------



## hellabad

Has anybody figured out what replacement crossover will bolt in?

I bought a car that has these, and no problems so far, but I have to clean up the wiring anyway, so I might as well prophylactically replace the crossovers.

reviews: They actually sound really good, a lot of mid-bass which the car needs up front (subs way out back). I hate shrill tweeters, and I have clicked these from +3 to 0 to -3, yet I still now have them at +3 in the mid door.

Running 250 amp-hype watts to the pair.


----------



## Jsracing

The midbass seem to be the stronger component of set, so id find a crossover thats 3.5khz or higher with st least a 12dB slope. Or just run them active.


----------



## philnutz1

i bought a set of these off ebay about three months ago, and have few complaints. I have them running off a 85x4 eclipse amp which came out around 2000 and currently i use the front channels for the tweets and the rear channels for the mids, i also ran them bridged off the same amp for a while which was 240 watts per side and they sounded good, only problem was my sub bass couldnt keep up , so that is why i ended up douing it the way i have it know. My one gripe is the muddiness of the mid, its not bad, i mean for the price i cant expect perfection. paid 59 on ebay


----------



## 96jimmyslt

I have the rear running active and they sound a little brighter and louder than the fronts passively with the included box. (I have them on a high pass card with an rf 4080dsm, bridged into what I think is making a 2 ohm load to the amp, which would explain the loudness)

Get nothing but compliments from them...

Was driving drunk the other day and couldn't hear the treble at all from them. Not sure if the tweeters are dying or what..


----------



## rugdnit

96jimmyslt said:


> I have the rear running active and they sound a little brighter and louder than the fronts passively with the included box. (I have them on a high pass card with an rf 4080dsm, bridged into what I think is making a 2 ohm load to the amp, which would explain the loudness)
> 
> Get nothing but compliments from them...
> 
> *Was driving drunk the other day* and couldn't hear the treble at all from them. Not sure if the tweeters are dying or what..


Grow up.


----------



## RustyWedges

I've been trying to complete the installation of this set for the past several weeks.

1st issue, right out of the box was w/one of the mids. The negative cable from the speaker to the terminal (forgive me as I don't know the exact terminology) was disconnect. Cadence sent me a replacement no questions asked.

Got the new mid went to install and one tweeter was distorted and started cutting in an out regardless of how the gains on the amp are set. After about 45 minutes it died. Cadence is shipping my replacement today.

I'm running these active off of a Cadence ZRS-C8 (150wx4 @4Ohm) and a 3sixty.2. The mids alone were a big improvement over my stock speakers. They add the mid bass I was missing between the stock mids and my IDQv3 12". The tweeters are bright/harsh, I figure once I get everything installed I will use the 3sixty to tone down the tweeters and EQ everything to my liking. 

Currently running 1 tweeter and 2 6.5" I'm happy with the improvement over the stock set that was installed. I believe the 3sixty.2 will make my review more positive from what I've read from members running these passive.


----------



## ErinH

Guys, here are the results from my impedance & t/s testing:

*Woofer:*


----------



## trojan fan

So are these things legit


----------



## rugdnit

trojan fan said:


> So are these things legit


I am no expert on all those stats/graphs, but I thought the same thing too.


----------



## Knobby Digital

Don't look like the specs on a woofer I'd like to use.


----------



## ErinH

alright...

the actual _effective_ diameter on these is really only about 5". I'm not sure how it's classified as a 6.5", but whatever. 
That sort of explains the fs not being stellar for this (hell, some of the 4" 'wideband' offerings are the same or lower). 

The qtc of the driver is incredibly high for my tastes. That said, it seems to be perfect for an in-door solution and the likely targeted audience. If you want to rock it loud, you've got some stiff suspension to keep from killing it. On the flip side, the high Q means a STEEP rolloff (think of Q as nothing more than the same thing you use on a parametric filter... large value for Q, steep notch... same thing). That means your amp is sensing a heavy load and the output of the driver is falling like a rock below 100hz. More along the lines of a 5" driver than a 6.5". But, whatever.

Le @ 0.4051mH isn't terrible, but it ain't great. Coupled with the pretty serious rising impedance and you're certainly not going to get much from this in terms of crossing high. In fact, if you start of with an Re of 3.3, you are at 6.3 at ~ 1.5khz and 9.3ohms at ~ 3.7khz. Probably works out well for a natural rolloff with a simple passive crossover on the tweeter. Admittedly, I should have measured the driver with the passive on it but didn't think about it until *now*.

Vas isn't terrible, though. 0.2ft^3... probably pretty close to most car doors which means there's no extra impact on suspension. Or, there shouldn't be. Of course, this will vary from car to car and install to install. 

Sd, function of effective diameter, is small. Again.... small 6.5" driver.
Mms is 17g. Pretty nice. Rigid cone. 
Sensitivity measured near 85dB @ 1w/1m. IIRC, that'll be close to 88dB @ 2.83v/1m (no, just adding 3dB is not the same). 


So, I'm thinking for free-air in doors with a desired crossover above 100hz and LPF of no more than 3khz, these might be alright. That said, without FR data, it's hard to say for sure what kind of response these have. I wouldn't expect stellar results, though.

All in all, for $70 or so, it's not terrible. You can certainly do better, but for a set of passives, I think these would make good stock replacements.


----------



## rugdnit

bikinpunk said:


> alright...
> 
> the actual _effective_ diameter on these is really only about 5". I'm not sure how it's classified as a 6.5", but whatever.
> That sort of explains the fs not being stellar for this (hell, some of the 4" 'wideband' offerings are the same or lower).
> 
> The qtc of the driver is incredibly high for my tastes. That said, it seems to be perfect for an in-door solution and the likely targeted audience. If you want to rock it loud, you've got some stiff suspension to keep from killing it. On the flip side, the high Q means a STEEP rolloff (think of Q as nothing more than the same thing you use on a parametric filter... large value for Q, steep notch... same thing). That means your amp is sensing a heavy load and the output of the driver is falling like a rock below 100hz. More along the lines of a 5" driver than a 6.5". But, whatever.
> 
> Le @ 0.4051mH isn't terrible, but it ain't great. Coupled with the pretty serious rising impedance and you're certainly not going to get much from this in terms of crossing high. In fact, if you start of with an Re of 3.3, you are at 6.3 at ~ 1.5khz and 9.3ohms at ~ 3.7khz. Probably works out well for a natural rolloff with a simple passive crossover on the tweeter. Admittedly, I should have measured the driver with the passive on it but didn't think about it until *now*.
> 
> Vas isn't terrible, though. 0.2ft^3... probably pretty close to most car doors which means there's no extra impact on suspension. Or, there shouldn't be. Of course, this will vary from car to car and install to install.
> 
> Sd, function of effective diameter, is small. Again.... small 6.5" driver.
> Mms is 17g. Pretty nice. Rigid cone.
> Sensitivity measured near 85dB @ 1w/1m. IIRC, that'll be close to 88dB @ 2.83v/1m (no, just adding 3dB is not the same).
> 
> *
> So, I'm thinking for free-air in doors with a desired crossover above 100hz and LPF of no more than 3khz, these might be alright. That said, without FR data, it's hard to say for sure what kind of response these have. I wouldn't expect stellar results, though.*
> 
> All in all, for $70 or so, it's not terrible. You can certainly do better, but for a set of passives, I think these would make good stock replacements.


That's more or less what I was picking up. We all have a friend on a budget and expects it to sound like your car-- for the $ these don't look too bad. Thank you Erin!


----------



## ErinH

The one good thing I do see is a lack of impedance ripple which usually pops up in the 800-2khz range for mids in this size range and is typically audible resonance or breakup depending on the magnitude. 
This shows no signs of that.


----------



## ErinH

klippel results of the woofer are up!
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...dence-cwm-6kit-midwoofer-klippel-results.html


----------



## Ufdah

So what do you guys think of these if you couldn't have a sub and 6.5's were the biggest speakers you could have while keeping to a micro-budget?


----------



## monoxide101

Ufdah said:


> So what do you guys think of these if you couldn't have a sub and 6.5's were the biggest speakers you could have while keeping to a micro-budget?


I would stay away from them to be honest. I posted a few entries up about my displeasure with them and it has only gotten worse since then. The tweets are toast - or maybe it's the crossovers - they sound like absolute crap. This is the first time I've bought something car audio related and felt like I really wasted my money. They are going to be replaced by a set of Cadence CVL5K 5.25" comps that I picked up dirt cheap before I even installed the CWM-6's. I hope I have better luck with them, they were going to be used in another project, but oh well.


----------



## Brian10962001

monoxide101 said:


> I would stay away from them to be honest. I posted a few entries up about my displeasure with them and it has only gotten worse since then. The tweets are toast - or maybe it's the crossovers - they sound like absolute crap. This is the first time I've bought something car audio related and felt like I really wasted my money. They are going to be replaced by a set of Cadence CVL5K 5.25" comps that I picked up dirt cheap before I even installed the CWM-6's. I hope I have better luck with them, they were going to be used in another project, but oh well.


I had this experience with Phoenix Gold Xenon's. The tweeters would pull themselves in half, and the woofers had no mid bass! They were and still are so stiff it's just ridiculous. I heard the Xenon subwoofers were the opposite as well and basically sucked in the mid range and were low end monsters  It's amazing how a decent sounding set of speakers can be plauged by a little design problem! Did you check your crossovers to see if you got bad caps?


----------



## rob b.

the crossovers are crappy, but workable. The tweeters are absolute garbage, not even worth installing in my opinion, just open the box and throw em away. The woofer is not terrible, biggest complaint is really poor low end extension, not much authority under 200hz, but they seem to handle quite a bit of power and have a pretty big magnet for the price. All in all, I would not recommend them.


----------



## envisionelec

Yeah, I don't understand the draw. They debuted in 1998 and were entry level even then. The dustcap isn't alloy nor is it a phase plug. It's a bullet shaped plastic cap.

I'm rather baffled by the seemingly good press these are getting. Is it value per dollar or actual good performance?


----------



## Dr.Telepathy SQ

bikinpunk said:


> alright...
> 
> the actual _effective_ diameter on these is really only about 5". I'm not sure how it's classified as a 6.5", but whatever.
> That sort of explains the fs not being stellar for this (hell, some of the 4" 'wideband' offerings are the same or lower).
> 
> The qtc of the driver is incredibly high for my tastes. That said, it seems to be perfect for an in-door solution and the likely targeted audience. If you want to rock it loud, you've got some stiff suspension to keep from killing it. On the flip side, the high Q means a STEEP rolloff (think of Q as nothing more than the same thing you use on a parametric filter... large value for Q, steep notch... same thing). That means your amp is sensing a heavy load and the output of the driver is falling like a rock below 100hz. More along the lines of a 5" driver than a 6.5". But, whatever.
> 
> Le @ 0.4051mH isn't terrible, but it ain't great. Coupled with the pretty serious rising impedance and you're certainly not going to get much from this in terms of crossing high. In fact, if you start of with an Re of 3.3, you are at 6.3 at ~ 1.5khz and 9.3ohms at ~ 3.7khz. Probably works out well for a natural rolloff with a simple passive crossover on the tweeter. Admittedly, I should have measured the driver with the passive on it but didn't think about it until *now*.
> 
> Vas isn't terrible, though. 0.2ft^3... probably pretty close to most car doors which means there's no extra impact on suspension. Or, there shouldn't be. Of course, this will vary from car to car and install to install.
> 
> Sd, function of effective diameter, is small. Again.... small 6.5" driver.
> Mms is 17g. Pretty nice. Rigid cone.
> Sensitivity measured near 85dB @ 1w/1m. IIRC, that'll be close to 88dB @ 2.83v/1m (no, just adding 3dB is not the same).
> 
> 
> So, I'm thinking for free-air in doors with a desired crossover above 100hz and LPF of no more than 3khz, these might be alright. That said, without FR data, it's hard to say for sure what kind of response these have. I wouldn't expect stellar results, though.
> 
> All in all, for $70 or so, it's not terrible. You can certainly do better, but for a set of passives, I think these would make good stock replacements.


If I could express the exact point of this comp set, Erin has correcly sized up this comp set. Keep in mind, Cadence has gone through 2 or 3 suppliers of this comp set through it's lifetime. That, plus quality control can effect the differences over time. 
IMO, the tweeter is crossed too low from the orginal passive crossover. Crossed higher, or a much steeper roll off helps. I tested the comp set actively. 
Midbass, strong, but as the test results have shown, it's right in the thick of where the avg user would want output. Anything under 80, you get the point.

All in all, this is exactly what Erin has stated, a good set to upgrade from basic factory. Better than an overpriced Bose system in many cars. Think, a good start to a budget passive comp set for the wifes car who doesn't really care about audio, but wants something better than the factory tunes. If you're looking for more performance, move up in the food chain, or DIY.


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## envisionelec

Dr.Telepathy SQ said:


> If I could express the exact point of this comp set, Erin has correcly sized up this comp set. Keep in mind, Cadence has gone through 2 or 3 suppliers of this comp set through it's lifetime. That, plus quality control can effect the differences over time.
> IMO, the tweeter is crossed too low from the orginal passive crossover. Crossed higher, or a much steeper roll off helps. I tested the comp set actively.
> Midbass, strong, but as the test results have shown, it's right in the thick of where the avg user would want output. Anything under 80, you get the point.
> 
> All in all, this is exactly what Erin has stated, a good set to upgrade from basic factory. Better than an overpriced Bose system in many cars. Think, a good start to a budget passive comp set for the wifes car who doesn't really care about audio, but wants something better than the factory tunes. If you're looking for more performance, move up in the food chain, or DIY.


OK, those are very fair points. Thank you for your considerate thoughts.


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## dbleon

I was hoping to get input on a replacement set of tweeters for the cwm6-kit. I physically damaged one and Cadence no longer carries them.

Looking for something to run passive off the cadence x-overs. I have about 75W RMS running the set. I have 1-3/4" holes to work with (can go slightly bigger, just not smaller).

Anyone help is greatly appreciated.


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## philnutz1

i have this set and would be willing to cut you a deal on the tweeters


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## slowsedan01

dbleon said:


> I was hoping to get input on a replacement set of tweeters for the cwm6-kit. I physically damaged one and Cadence no longer carries them.
> 
> Looking for something to run passive off the cadence x-overs. I have about 75W RMS running the set. I have 1-3/4" holes to work with (can go slightly bigger, just not smaller).
> 
> Anyone help is greatly appreciated.


The tweeters are the weakest link. I would shop for another set and run them off the Cadence x-over. As long as they are the same impedence you will be fine.


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## ErinH

I did some more testing of the midwifery in the klippel link I posted above. 

Check it out.


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## dbleon

Looking for specific recommendations... budget tweeters. I found some @ partsexpress but most are 8 OHM...


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## slowsedan01

dbleon said:


> Looking for specific recommendations... budget tweeters. I found some @ partsexpress but most are 8 OHM...


Many times tweeters in component sets are 8 ohm. You need to measure the impedance of the one good tweeter you have to be sure. I did a search to see if it was published anywhere but didn't find anything.


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## dbleon

slowsedan01 said:


> Many times tweeters in component sets are 8 ohm. You need to measure the impedance of the one good tweeter you have to be sure. I did a search to see if it was published anywhere but didn't find anything.


I measured resistance of the tweeter and it was 2.6 ohm; that does not sound right to me. Used just a multimeter... am I doing something wrong??


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## slowsedan01

dbleon said:


> I measured resistance of the tweeter and it was 2.6 ohm; that does not sound right to me. Used just a multimeter... am I doing something wrong??


Probably not. See if you can find two or four ohm tweeters.


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## dbleon

Any actual speaker recommendations for me guys??

I'm having a hard time finding 2 ohm tweeters. Thinking of scrapping the whole set and getting something else...


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## snaimpally

dbleon said:


> I measured resistance of the tweeter and it was 2.6 ohm; that does not sound right to me. Used just a multimeter... am I doing something wrong??


Impedance is not a constant but rather varies - you will see an impedance curve/graph in many cases plotting impedance vs frequency. Most manufacturers rate at "nominal impedance". Also, what you measured is the resistance of the voice coil. So it is possible that a tweeter has an impedance of 4 ohms but a resistance of 2.6 ohms. 

Here is a tweeter that Dr.TelepathySQ often reccomends:

Vifa XT25SC90-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter 264-1014

Hard to go wrong for the current sale price of $18/each. And they are 4 ohm. Alpine uses a similar ring radiator in their SPX-Pro line.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spx-17pro


In fact note that PE states " Impedance: 4 ohms • *Re: 3.1 ohms* •"


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## ErinH

dbleon said:


> I measured resistance of the tweeter and it was 2.6 ohm; that does not sound right to me. Used just a multimeter... am I doing something wrong??


That's voice coil resistance. As noted above, impedance is what you really should e concerned with. Sometimes nominal resistance I an average of impedance in a given passbands. 

Re is typically lower than nominal.


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## Brian10962001

I purchased a new set of the 2011 Alpine Type S components and couldn't be happier. They have plastic baskets, decently shallow mount design, two part crossovers that I much prefer to the "box type" crossover, and nice silk tweeters. I paid right at 80 for the pair and they've been good to me so far running on deck power.


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## KYRGYZ

So guys I just found this set for $57 each pair. Can I buy it or better to find something different? I'm reading all topics and a little confused about sound quality and tweeters. I'm new in car audio world and don't have much experience with speakers and everything related to audio. Please help me.


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## tglennd

RADRaze2KX said:


> I don't personally have the CWM-6KIT, but I have the Cadence ZRS-6K components and these things rock. My ex blew one woofer and tweeter though, so I ordered another pair (and have 1 woofer/tweeter/crossover to spair now). I also got the CVLS-65 coax speakers, and holy cow. It's amazing. I'll post a full review if anybody's interested. But I didn't want to thread jack.


Im interested


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