# Help!!! expanding foam owned my door



## AdamTaylor

so i taped up my door panel to put down a thin layer of foam inbetween my door card and the pod i made....


i guess something went wrong because the tape lifted and there is foam crap all over my door card


and i cant figure out how to get this stuff off


help me please


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## DanMan

That's a tough one.

If you are talking about "Great Stuff" or the like, it won't be easy. When I get that stuff on my fingers I use sandpaper or a file.

As far as I know acetone is recommended but it never worked for me.

Good luck.


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## AdamTaylor

yeah, its the greatstuff green can


acetone hasnt really done anything


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## IBcivic

apart from sanding off the residue,there is not much you can do.
i feel for ya,man.....


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## savagebee

try goof off, or possibly airplane paint stripper

the stripper will probably mess up the door card though


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## AdamTaylor

savagebee said:


> try goof off, or possibly airplane paint stripper
> 
> the stripper will probably mess up the door card though




where im at now.... it looks like im screwed either way




worth a try, either it works or i have to rewrap my door


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## ACRucrazy

If its still wet, a rag and mineral spirits does work, but depending on the material the mineral spirits can remove paint etc.

Good luck man, I know how messy the foam can be. I Have it all over my hands from a project earlier this week.


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## AdamTaylor

yeah.... unfortunately its dry


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## Austin

Pics?


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## Ziggy

Sand it and SIM paint... That's prolly the best option... I've got a center console that was wrapped in black vinyl and its SIM painted tan to match interior... 
You can't tell... See for yourself:


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Brake cleaner will remove it, it'll melt the plastic too though, beware.. 

If you are going to wrap the door card anyway, sand it..


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## PsychoZX

Ziggy said:


> Sand it and SIM paint... That's prolly the best option... I've got a center console that was wrapped in black vinyl and its SIM painted tan to match interior...
> You can't tell... See for yourself:


Excuse my ignorance But I am curious what is SIM paint?


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## Guy

PsychoZX said:


> Excuse my ignorance But I am curious what is SIM paint?


Ziggy misspelled the product he used. 
SEM is a coatings company- one of their product lines is factory match vinyl paint.


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## Ziggy

hahahah...thanks for clarifying, Guy... I actually never used it... 
"Unpredicatable" built the console and applied the SEM paint... 
My point was is that large box under the arm rest is actually wrapped in BLACK vinyl... Then painted tan with SEM... 
SO if the OP has some nasty dry foam on the outside of his door card... He may want to see if SEM's got a match for his card and buff it out with that.


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## Sr SQ

I never tried it but was told gasoline will soften it up?


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## JayBee

If you use gas, be sure to close the doors so the vapors can really concentrate and go to work


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## ItalynStylion

There's a great stuff green can? I've only seen the red and blue can.....nuts....PS: Don't listen to ^that guy


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## unpredictableacts

Paint thinner will kill Styrofoam.


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## unpredictableacts

Ziggy said:


>


Wait a sec....is that a body in there? You should have upgraded to the back seat and passenger seat model.:laugh:


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## Ziggy

unpredictableacts said:


> Wait a sec....is that a body in there? .:laugh:


*It's a coffin with cup holders, yo!.. Good thing it's SEALED too!*


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## unpredictableacts

LOL...I was talking about the body hidden among all that hunk.


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## AdamTaylor

unpredictableacts said:


> Paint thinner will kill Styrofoam.


it didnt do anything to it


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## ecktor

I once worked on a project where we installed pre-insulated chilled water pvc piping. It's insulated with something similar to the great stuff products. We had a b*tch of a time getting the polyurethane residue off the pipe to get fittings to hold. When we weren't using the factory ends, the residue would keep the pvc primer primer and glue from making a solid bond. 

You might try dimethly sulfoxide (DMSO) or n-methyl pyrollidone (nMP). DMSO you may be able to find at a livestock/feed store. nMP is a component of some paint strippers (safe strip - type products). We tried the chemical route, but mostly our field guys sanded. A lot. 

Read the labels... and get some gloves compatible with the solvent you use. (DMSO has been frequently used as a "carrier" solvent b/c it easily penetrates your skin...)

Good luck.


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## Ziggy

AdamTaylor said:


> it didnt do anything to it


Take a pic of it and post it already...


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## Brian10962001

FYI When working with a car I prefer to use the Greatstuff "big gap filler" for Hvac systems. It drys to a different consistency, isn't as tenacious, and doesn't swell to the extreme nasty degree the regular greattuff does. It's also seems to dry up and not drip and "bulge" like the regular stuff does. The Hvac stuff is in the black can.


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## AdamTaylor

Ziggy said:


> Take a pic of it and post it already...


i will tomorrow


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## AdamTaylor




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## Brian10962001

Yuck man!


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## Ziggy

I think you're going to be limited... as far as getting it off without ruining the texture. 
Have you tried "Goof Off"?... It's a glue remover, but I think that Great Stuff boarders on epoxy... 
One version of Goof off is plastics safe, but I doubt it will do much against that... 

I think that physical removal, maybe with some sanding (if you can get away with it), and matching with SEM paint would be the best way...
You could at least SEM paint over the gunk and it at least it wouldn't be yellow anymore...


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## billbillw

Great stuff is single component polyurethane. There are no off the shelf solvents that will remove polyurethane once it has cured. From some limited research that I did, you'd be looking at a mixture of dichloromethane, dimethyl formamide and methanol to remove it. Unfortunately, you can't buy any of those and even if you could, that mixture would probably melt away your door panels. 

Friction is your only choice to remove it.


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## savagebee

aircraft paint remover has taken 6 month old primer with single stage topcoat paint off of some stainless steel trim pretty easily. It may damage the panel underneath though, si Id definately spot check it first.

Sounds like sanding will be the best option


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## Zorasmiles

The safest and best routes of least resistance;

A. Sand down the foamed area for removal
B. Use Sem to recolor the door(may have issues with texture difference)
C. Rewrap both doors and not worry about issues with color matching, if you don't
go the SEM route.

Goodluck


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## AdamTaylor

yeah, im looking for a dummys guide to auto upholstery now


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## Hernan

I should try with water/soap and a plastic brush + lots of patience. Polyurethane foam doesn't like water at all.

A dremel with a soft brush could work.

Pressure water washer, medium/low pressure. (and you can wash the whole car after restoring the panels)


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## Blake Rateliff

Try using a wire brush. I think you might be able to scrape it of with one of those without scratching the door card too much


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## keithace

pb blaster?

one of the great things about car audio is that we have all done something like this...


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## spmpdr

Ziggy said:


> Sand it and SIM paint... That's prolly the best option... I've got a center console that was wrapped in black vinyl and its SIM painted tan to match interior...
> You can't tell... See for yourself:


You really think that color matches? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that center consoles a way lighter tan the the rest of your plastic panels.SEM products are not in my experience very good for color matching large objects like that.


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## spmpdr

AdamTaylor said:


>


Did you ever get that off? if so i would like to know how. I would either just buy replacements or make a f/g door panel. I dont believe you will get that stuff off it is a *****.


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## AdamTaylor

nope


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## Hillbilly SQ

spmpdr said:


> You really think that color matches? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that center consoles a way lighter tan the the rest of your plastic panels.SEM products are not in my experience very good for color matching large objects like that.


I agree, mine didn't match either.


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## Ziggy

spmpdr said:


> You really think that color matches? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that center consoles a way lighter tan the the rest of your plastic panels.SEM products are not in my experience very good for color matching large objects like that.


heheheh - Well, it's a lot dirtier now.  
but, yeah... it coulda' been a lil bit darker... and with the seats in -you can't tell.
A door panel may be a different story, but I still think sanding and SEM is the way to go for the O/p... whatever happened to him.


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## yogegoy

I'm still a noob so I can't upload any images or link it. I use a product available at HD and it's name is "Motsenbocker's Lift Off" Silicone latex caulk and FOAM SEALANT Remover. It's the shelf opposite the caulkings. When applied to dry foam it will not dissolve it, it breaks down the molecular bond allowing it to be removed in pieces.


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## Jprice2708

Heheh, reminds me of the first time I used expanding foam in my old car - I ended up having to throw away my seat covers, floor mats, and the shirt and pants I was wearing at the time... :laugh:


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## dragonrage

yogegoy said:


> I'm still a noob so I can't upload any images or link it. I use a product available at HD and it's name is "Motsenbocker's Lift Off" Silicone latex caulk and FOAM SEALANT Remover. It's the shelf opposite the caulkings. When applied to dry foam it will not dissolve it, it breaks down the molecular bond allowing it to be removed in pieces.


Good to know, but look at the date on this thread...


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## thelbz

xylene or mek should work but I dont think it would be wise to get on plastic. xylene is some harsh stuff and you shouldn't get it on your skin at all.


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## yogegoy

dragonrage said:


> Good to know, but look at the date on this thread...


I didn't know they stopped manufacturing expanding foam in the year 2009. In that case it's a lost cause, useless information people, nothing to rubber neck about.


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## yogegoy

thelbz said:


> xylene or mek should work but I dont think it would be wise to get on plastic. xylene is some harsh stuff and you shouldn't get it on your skin at all.


The brand I mentioned is very safe for almost anything, even in printed material.


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## danyman

ya its late but for future reference i used toluol.. ya ya strong stuff but hey it works. cleaned my doors with it to sound deaden. works like a champ but make sure u work outside obviously. used it to remove expantion foam off plastic and works great.


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## AK280ZX

Brake fluid or brake cleaner tend to eat anything. Including paint and plastic, so be careful.


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## roseda91

That sucks!!!


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## veritasz34

WOW..looks like a mess..Maybe look in a junk yard for a replacement?? You have to be careful with this stuff. I've seen guys put it into the body cavities for damping..The thing is it all doesn't fully cure..then you take your car out into the sun and POW it expands...I have seen it seperate body panels..


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## feyrerm

WD-40 maybe


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