# PPI DSP-88R Help



## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I'm sorry if this needed to go in the advanced section. I wasn't sure what was really considered advanced. I think this is kind of in between.

Hey guys, I'm a newb(obviously). I'm gonna be honest with ya here... I joined this forum just to try and figure out a problem, since I don't have a lot of time to contribute much I don't usually have issues I can't figure out, but not on this one. Now, on to the problem.

I bought a PPI DSP-88R to hook up in my car so I could keep the factory headunit in place and get rid of the factory "equilization" that was made to make crappy speakers sound better. It's a company car that I spend most of the day in. As a music lover, it is my duty to make it tolerable. Anyway, I can't get this DSP to function properly to save my life! Basically, it's inconsistent, and no matter how I hook it up it's just not working. I can have OK mids and highs with no bass, or I can have bass with weirdly distributed highs.

I have it running off of a PAC converter I already had installed when I put an 8inch sub in it. The front and rear channels do not put out the same output, so if I hook it up "normally" with front right/front left/rear right rear left the highs are good, but the bass is weird(I had my sub running off the front channels prior to the DSP for this very reason. That tells me the DSP is pulling the bass from the rear. If I hook it up to the front channels only(tried with only two channels going to DSP, and with splitter, the bass is good, but the highs aren't evenly distributed left to right(I'm aware this makes me lose my f/r fading ability). They don't sound quite right either. 

I decided to take the head unit and PAC out of the loop, so I hooked up an MP3 player to the aux on the DSP, and it sounded okay. This has me thinking it's just isn't agreeing with the PAC or head unit's varied output on different channels. That led me to simply run the front channels(since I know they carry all of the signal) to the aux input of the DSP, and that worked well...for a minute. I adjusted the aux input level to compensate for the higher signal, and it was sounding pretty good. I decided to crank the car up and so as to not drain the battery, and then it got too loud and was distorting from the input signal being too much. I adjusted the input to the min, and it was still too hot and distorted. I cut the car back to ACC. and still too loud? I hooked the DSP back up as I originally had it to the headunit and nothing had changed as far as the sound there.

I have checked and double checked the wiring. I have also swapped RCAs and tried every combination of hooking them up to the different channels of the factory headunit. Either I'm missing something, or my DSP-88R is a dud? 

FYI, my car is a 2011 focus with SYNC, but no factory sub. It is also a company car, which is why I can't replace the factory headunit. The whole goals is to keep everything hidden, otherwise I would have just purchased an EQ and mounted it somewhere. I also like the adjustability the DSP offers. Do any of you guys have any tips, or ideas on this one? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

Completely remove pac out if the loop and connect the stereo high level inputs to the high level inputs on the dsp, im not sure you tried this yet?


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

Make sure you have both f/r f/l r/r r/l all hooked up so it summons everything equally. This little guy is kinda finicky when you don't have enough input voltage, really it doesn't like it at all so look for loose connections. Are you running aftermarket amps at all or how do you have it running the speakers?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I was considering taking the PAC out of the loop as a last resort, just because I don't want to pull my dash apart again Maybe this is a stupid thought, but what if I just "sacrificed" some RCA cables and hooked the speaker level inputs to them and plugged that in to the RCA cables that are already run? The DSP does use the same wires for high/low level input right?

Oh, I forgot to mention this is going to a PPI 5 channel amp(i640). The DSP, and AMP are meticulously mounted under my seat and out of site. That is one thing that is making me want to wait until all other options are exhausted, before trying high level inputs, since I will have to take it all out. I know, I should have checked it before doing that, but that would have made too much sense.... Thanks for the comments guys!


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

rallyshark said:


> I was considering taking the PAC out of the loop as a last resort, just because I don't want to pull my dash apart again Maybe this is a stupid thought, but what if I just "sacrificed" some RCA cables and hooked the speaker level inputs to them and plugged that in to the RCA cables that are already run? The DSP does use the same wires for high/low level input right?
> 
> Oh, I forgot to mention this is going to a PPI 5 channel amp(i640). The DSP, and AMP are meticulously mounted under my seat and out of site. That is one thing that is making me want to wait until all other options are exhausted, before trying high level inputs, since I will have to take it all out. I know, I should have checked it before doing that, but that would have made too much sense.... Thanks for the comments guys!


Yeah, run the speaker outs of the headunit straight to the 88r harness. On mine (while I had the stock HU in) I just clipped the RCA ends off the harness.

Now that I have an aftermarket HU I just ran one pair of rca's and attached em to the aux inputs (the ones on the unit not the harness)


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Cool, I'll go root around and see if I can find some female RCA's to sacrifice. I'll let you guys know if it blows up or not!


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

You will want male as the harness has female (or im confused)... or just clip the ones on the harness and solder/heatshrink right to the wire.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

REGULARCAB said:


> You will want male as the harness has female (or im confused)... or just clip the ones on the harness and solder/heatshrink right to the wire.


LOL, I gotcha! I already made a harness, soldered/heat shrinked and all. I just got through hooking it up, but I won't have time to really mess with until this weekend. Initial impressions are positive. I have even left/right distribution and nothing sounds weird. The signal is definitely better. I still had to split the front outputs though(RCA split). I have no idea why Ford thought it necessary to send different signals to front and rear speakers that are the same! I'll give you guys a better "review" after I've had some time to actually play with the EQ and make sure everything is working properly. Thanks for help/advice so far!


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

rallyshark said:


> LOL, I gotcha! I already made a harness, soldered/heat shrinked and all. I just got through hooking it up, but I won't have time to really mess with until this weekend. Initial impressions are positive. I have even left/right distribution and nothing sounds weird. The signal is definitely better. I still had to split the front outputs though(RCA split). I have no idea why Ford thought it necessary to send different signals to front and rear speakers that are the same! I'll give you guys a better "review" after I've had some time to actually play with the EQ and make sure everything is working properly. Thanks for help/advice so far!


Good deal :2thumbsup:


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

Personally i would still run direct headunit to high level inputs on dsp, that pac is probably going to be a bottleneck plus they normally have poor bass response


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

^^^^^ this the loc is just one more peice to let noise come into your stereo.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

From what I gathered isn't that what he did?


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

Ive read through it a couple of tyms, but it sounds like he didnt


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

REGULARCAB said:


> From what I gathered isn't that what he did?


That is exactly what I did last night. The PAC is out, and it is running on high inputs now. Unfortunately, just like everything I have tried before, this isn't working either. Everything I've tried sounds decent at first, but when I hop in to go to work the next day, the sound is back where I started?! I don't know what the heck is going on. This damned DSP is making me think I'm crazy! 

It's almost like it's trying to sum the inputs every time it powers on after it's been off. No, my power/turn on are not crossed. It's flash memory anyway, so it SHOULD stay where it was I'd think. I'm really starting to think the DSP is faulty. No matter which channels go front or rear, two of the channels that are output(not counting G,H sub channels) are bass only or nothing at all. I can have good highs and some bass if I max out the gain on the amp for the sub while also reducing the gains for the channels A,B,C,D so the levels kinda match. They really don't though. There's some really wonky stuff going on here... 

If I swap channels around going into the DSP I can get good sound from every speaker, just not all at once, so I'm pretty sure the amp is good. Tonight or tomorrow, I'm going to run straight to the amp just take the DSP out of the loop and confirm the amp is functioning as it should. If I rule the amp out, then all signs seem to be pointing to the DSP, which sucks 

Has anyone else had this kind of problem with the DSP-88R/Harmony? If I could get the sound where I wanted without the DSP, I wouldn't blown the $200+ on it in the first place. Does it sound like I'm on the right track on this troubleshooting adventure to you guys? Thanks for all the help so far!


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

rallyshark said:


> That is exactly what I did last night. The PAC is out, and it is running on high inputs now. Unfortunately, just like everything I have tried before, this isn't working either. Everything I've tried sounds decent at first, but when I hop in to go to work the next day, the sound is back where I started?! I don't know what the heck is going on. This damned DSP is making me think I'm crazy!
> 
> It's almost like it's trying to sum the inputs every time it powers on after it's been off. No, my power/turn on are not crossed. It's flash memory anyway, so it SHOULD stay where it was I'd think. I'm really starting to think the DSP is faulty. No matter which channels go front or rear, two of the channels that are output(not counting G,H sub channels) are bass only or nothing at all. I can have good highs and some bass if I max out the gain on the amp for the sub while also reducing the gains for the channels A,B,C,D so the levels kinda match. They really don't though. There's some really wonky stuff going on here...
> 
> ...


HMMMMMM when you are tuning are you actually saving it to the DSP? You can save the file on your computer but have to save it to one of the save slots on the unit or it will go back to factory once you turn it off.

It does seem like a strange problem to have, especially if its working great and then all of a sudden doesn't.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

FWIW I initially ran only the stock HU fronts to the front L/R on the 88R and it worked flawlessly. Perhaps the 88R just really hates summing the input its getting. I would try just the front and see what happens.

When you have all four channels hooked up are you fading front rear at all?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Yep, I'm saving the settings, and they're there. I can switch between them with the remote. I have tried running just the fronts, because I was thinking the same thing. Since the rears are weird, I figured okay, I just just run the fronts then. That didn't work out for me, and that's when I tried to run them to the aux, and it sounded good...until I crunk the car up, and the input was all of a sudden way too hot even with the aux gain at minimum. I'm telling ya, this thing is not making any sense at all to me. 

I forgot to add that when I hook all four up, it takes two of the four and makes them bass only. If I swap front/rear the bass only moves. If I fade the head unit I either get highs on one and bass on the other, or highs/some bass on one, and nothing on the other?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I even tried putting a RCA Y cable/splitter on the front channel and sending that to all four inputs, and it STILL did the same thing?


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

rallyshark said:


> and it sounded good...until I crunk the car up, and the input was all of a sudden way too hot even with the aux gain at minimum


Now that's just weird and was kind of a red flag in your other post. I don't personally have an answer for that one. If all this crap isn't working for you have you thought about contacting PPI support?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Here's some more weirdness for ya. I have now loaded 7 of the 10 available slots in the DSP so I can switch between them for trouble shooting purposes. The same preset selection does NOT always yield the same sound. It may sound normal, or it may be peaked out, or it may decide it wants to "enhance" certain sounds that it didn't when that preset was previously selected. 

All of this is with the bass/treble on the headunit at 0 mind you. If you bump the bass up, and cut the car off, and then turn it back on: it will try to level the bass back down to the previous sound(it's trying to randomly flatten the inputs). I'm pretty sure this thing is nuts  

I haven't called PPI yet, because I wanted to make damn sure it was the DSP first. I deal with people at work all day long who blame equipment for their own stupidity, and I don't want to be one of those people,haha! Seriously though, either I've lost all my reasoning/troubleshooting ability, or the unit is hosed.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

I wonder if your stock headunit attenuates the bass at higher volumes so much that the 88r just can't compensate.

PPI does state that it corrects bass roll off of stock headunits but that is about all it says.

Now say you are listening and things sound good, you turn the car off and back on, does the volume setting on the HU change?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

REGULARCAB said:


> I wonder if your stock headunit attenuates the bass at higher volumes so much that the 88r just can't compensate.
> 
> PPI does state that it corrects bass roll off of stock headunits but that is about all it says.
> 
> Now say you are listening and things sound good, you turn the car off and back on, does the volume setting on the HU change?


Most newer stock head units do attenuate bass at higher volumes. However, I haven't even had the volume up past half way, and I know it's not attenuating at those levels from previous listening. If it were trying to correct bass roll off, I would think it would boost it?

My HU volume stays wherever it was when the car was shut off. Nothing at all changes in that department. Just for the sake of general knowledge here: I'm not trying to make everything loud at all. I'm just trying to make it sound good. I only have the gains on the amp set to where it's slightly louder than factory. The amp is 60x4RMS + 200x1RMS, so I'm really not trying to push anything that hard. My sub is an infinity 8"(which sounded phenomenal with a small Soundstream Nano pushing it), and my factory locations hold Pioneer D series 2ways(the ones with the basalt/aramid cones). As you can see, there's nothing fancy going on. Just some decent stuff to give the car what it needs to have a chance good sound.

I feel pretty sure sound levels and quality will pick up quite a bit when I take the DSP out of the mix, but then I'll have the crappy factory equalization trying to make my ears bleed They really have the high end wacked to compensate for cheap speakers. It's a common problem with newer Ford HU. Sometimes, better speakers sound worse without some additional sound adjustment in the mix.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

Are you sure you have a solid (unswitched) +12 on the yellow harness wire (pin 13) and switched +12 on *both* the red wires (pins 4 & 14)?

Maybe flakey +12 is causing it to lose its settings?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Jepalan said:


> Are you sure you have a solid (unswitched) +12 on the yellow harness wire (pin 13) and switched +12 on *both* the red wires (pins 4 & 14)?
> 
> Maybe flakey +12 is causing it to lose its settings?


Yep, I checked and double checked that one. I even have both remote turn on wires connected straight from the factory HU. I know it seems like that would be the problem given the DSP's randomness, but that's not the case. I wish it were that simple. I'm going to rip the DSP out and go straight to the amp in a little while to make sure the inputs are functioning properly. Even though, I've pretty much ruled that out.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

rallyshark said:


> Yep, I checked and double checked that one. I even have both remote turn on wires connected straight from the factory HU. I know it seems like that would be the problem given the DSP's randomness, but that's not the case. I wish it were that simple. I'm going to rip the DSP out and go straight to the amp in a little while to make sure the inputs are functioning properly. Even though, I've pretty much ruled that out.


Its sounding more and more like you have a defective DSP. Good luck - I'm out of ideas.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I know, lucky me I'll figure it out, it just sucks. I made such a nice and tidy little "amp rack" for it and the 5channel amp to fit under the front seat, and now I gotta rip it all out just swap some connections around. It was so pretty...


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

UPDATE:

I took the DSP out of the mix and ran straight to the amp. The suspicions have been confirmed. It's clean and loud with full fading ability from the HU, and no issues after shutting off. Of course, I only have bass and treble to play with now, so the sound isn't where I want it, but everything functions as it should. It looks like I'm gonna have to try and get the DSP replaced, or come up with a different option  

That being said, do you guys think I should just go for the replacement unit, or try something different?? I really like and want the options the DSP-88R offers. I'm worried it could be a compatibility issue, rather than a faulty unit. I see no real reason it shouldn't work though. Is anybody on here running one with a Ford HU? What would be an alternative option for around the same $$?

Thanks again for the input, I do appreciate the help!


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

I just saw this thread. I ran into the exact same issue with mine, using my SPH-DA210. I fed both pairs of RCA inputs on the harness with my deck with no luck. I couldn't get all the channels to play or sum properly. I even tried making some custom male RCA-ends and trying the high-level output from the deck. Same thing. I had to give up and use the Aux-input. 

I troubleshot it with Ryan from SoundStream on the phone a few weeks back, but we really didn't get anywhere.

Using the Aux-in really sucks, because now if I want to do any tweaking with Room EQ Wizard, I have to power down everything, unplug my deck from Aux, plug in my laptop, and then bring everything back up again. I really don't want to risk finding out if the AppRadio decks have pico fuses or not. 

On top of that, I have the Remote output feeding a relay since I have 3 amps. It failed last night and I had to trigger the relay using the switched power from my deck. So now I get occasional turn-off thump. 

Other than those two issues, it's been an okay unit. I'm going to contact Ryan in support via phone on Monday and see about an exchange or possibly a return. I'm hoping they'll give me full credit towards the purchase of the DEQ.8 or Synthesis and I can pay the difference.

I think it has great potential, but I don't think the DSP-88r is fully where it needs to be just yet. Additionally, it needs much better documentation. As someone whose background includes technical writing, I cringed inside when I first looked through the manual. So much missing information. Much sad. Sigh.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Kriszilla said:


> I just saw this thread. I ran into the exact same issue with mine, using my SPH-DA210. I fed both pairs of RCA inputs on the harness with my deck with no luck. I couldn't get all the channels to play or sum properly. I even tried making some custom male RCA-ends and trying the high-level output from the deck. Same thing. I had to give up and use the Aux-input.
> 
> I troubleshot it with Ryan from SoundStream on the phone a few weeks back, but we really didn't get anywhere.
> 
> ...


I just took a quick look at the specs for your HU, and it only has rear/sub outputs for RCA, so I would expect that not to work right. I would have thought that the custom harness would have done the trick though? I tried to run mine through the aux, but it didn't work out well in my case. I was too distorted even with the aux gain at minimum. There is so much more than that going wrong with mine. It just decides to change the sound at random as well. I've essentially been monkeying around with every night after work for a week now. I'm tired, and just want something that works. I haven't decided what my next step will be yet, but I plan on finding out Monday when I can get OCS or PPI on the phone. We'll see what happens from there


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

No, it has two pair of RCA outputs. The front RCA's , and the 2nd pair can be either rear or sub depending on how it's setup in the deck.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

That's a shame you guys are having issues. Mine has been flawless so far. But I will agree. I am out of trouble shooting ideas and a replacement seems lime the only option for you.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Kriszilla said:


> No, it has two pair of RCA outputs. The front RCA's , and the 2nd pair can be either rear or sub depending on how it's setup in the deck.


Oh, gotcha. I would have been happy if I could just make the DSP work with any input... I think the features are awesome, and give everything you need to adjust the system to your liking. I'm hoping I can get another that works.


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

I just thought about something. When you're using the Aux input, in the DSP-88R software, you *HAVE* to have the Aux input selected as well when you're setting your crossover, EQ, etc... It's in the top left corner of the screen. If it's not highlighted green then you need to re-save your settings and re-upload them to the DSP. Otherwise, it won't know where to look for its signal.

The settings you make are on a per-input basis, which helps if you need to gain down / up one of your sources or apply different EQ curves.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

^^^^^^^^this is very true^^^^^^


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Kriszilla said:


> I just thought about something. When you're using the Aux input, in the DSP-88R software, you *HAVE* to have the Aux input selected as well when you're setting your crossover, EQ, etc... It's in the top left corner of the screen. If it's not highlighted green then you need to re-save your settings and re-upload them to the DSP. Otherwise, it won't know where to look for its signal.
> 
> The settings you make are on a per-input basis, which helps if you need to gain down / up one of your sources or apply different EQ curves.


I did make sure to save them with the aux selected in the software, so no luck there. It would fit the symptoms of what I was describing though. The odd part was the fact that after I started the car, the aux input became way too distorted. I didn't pull back on any of the channels/input THAT much. We're talking like 10X louder, as in so loud there isn't enough adjustment to compensate. Throw in the fact that it refuses to give me highs on four channels while having bass to G/H and the inconsistency of everything. It's all just weird. I think my unit is just a dud. Hopefully I can get another one that is willing to cooperate with me. It was a good thought though!


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## All-Or-Nothing (Apr 16, 2013)

Just found this thread and had a question. Is anyone running an iPod thru the AUX input. I was thinking about this 88r and only having an iPod and no head unit.

Would it be possible to just have the 88r with an iPod attached for my music.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

All-Or-Nothing said:


> Just found this thread and had a question. Is anyone running an iPod thru the AUX input. I was thinking about this 88r and only having an iPod and no head unit.
> 
> Would it be possible to just have the 88r with an iPod attached for my music.


I'm going to use the aux as an iphone input so will report back. From memory apple idevices put out 1 volt on the RCA outputs so not expecting any issues. it worked on the bench ok with iphone and car pc via RCA.

I'm hoping to use all three inputs on the DSP-88r line in RCA's for factory car sound, aux for iphone and toskink for car pc.

Anyone else using all three inputs ?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I'm not positive, but I see no reason why that wouldn't work. It seems like I remember something about all other inputs are shut down when toslink is used though?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

On another note, I spoke to OCS today, and I'm going to be sending my DSP 88R back to them for a replacement. That is my only option according to them. I cannot get a refund to get something else, and turn around will be around 2 weeks minimum THAT BLOWS!

Has anyone else ever done any returns etc. with them? They really sounded like they didn't really give a crap about my problem, and I have to send it back on my own dime. After the way they acted towards me today, I don't know that I'll be doing any more business with them... I even asked if I could purchase a second one, and they refund the $$ when they receive the defective unit as a way of making it happen faster. I asked if there was any other way to speed it up(I also said I would pay for faster shipping or whatever would help). Their response was basically, "No, and why are we still talking?" They only seemed to care about getting me off the phone asap. I was quite disappointed with their customer service, and the way they were talking to me. I was very polite etc. etc., but they were pretty much Aholes. I've been doing business with them since 2006! Never mind their total lack of admitting if something is in stock or not until after the order goes through. It's kind of lame. I guess SE is the way to go for future purchases.

Anywho, I'll basically be back to where I started for a while, until they deem it convenient to send me another unit. Sorry for the rant! It just sucks, because I'm out $200+, and have nothing to show for it along with having stuff in the car jacked up while I wait. Then throw in the extra time and work it's going to take to get all the wiring out only to put it all back it later. What a colossal PIA! I guess that's the price we pay for buying online sometimes.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Hope they do the right thing and get one returned to you asap.


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

My friend ordered me one from ocs last wednesday and he got it delivered to him yesterday so they definetley have them in stock (unless that was the last one i took)


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

NealfromNZ said:


> I'm going to use the aux as an iphone input so will report back. From memory apple idevices put out 1 volt on the RCA outputs so not expecting any issues. it worked on the bench ok with iphone and car pc via RCA.
> 
> I'm hoping to use all three inputs on the DSP-88r line in RCA's for factory car sound, aux for iphone and toskink for car pc.
> 
> Anyone else using all three inputs ?


I'm going to do something similar. I'm replacing my car-pc with my S4 and the DSP-88R. I have an apt-x Bluetooth adapter with optical out to provide audio from the phone. I'll use the aux input for my HD radio tuner and am hoping to use the high level inputs with 3.5mm to RCA cable as an optional input.

I should have it all in by the end off the weekend and will let you know how it worked.


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

Kriszilla said:


> The settings you make are on a per-input basis, which helps if you need to gain down / up one of your sources or apply different EQ curves.


This is nice to know. With documentation that is so lacking, its nice to have a user support group.

Does the dsp remember the EQ sitting per source? If I have preset 3 selected when SPDIF input is active and switch to AUX and change the EQ to preset 1, will it return to preset 3 when I select SPDIF again?


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

It will remember each preset's source, but it will not switch presets based on the source selected via the remote, if that makes any sense?

If you change to Optical, then you need to select the right preset to go with it. When you switch to a different source, you will need to select its preset as well.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Kriszilla said:


> It will remember each preset's source, but it will not switch presets based on the source selected via the remote, if that makes any sense?
> 
> If you change to Optical, then you need to select the right preset to go with it. When you switch to a different source, you will need to select its preset as well.


But if I remember correctly it will switch inputs if you switch presets


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Started basic tune last night but having issues getting enough output From cd iinput.

My issue is trying to set the gains on cd and aux input. I'm not able to set the values independently . Can't seem to get a consistent output level when switching between sources. The manual is vauge in this area.


I have a balanced audio input with 4.2 constant volts across the 4 speaker level inputs. If I adjust the physical gain I get no change in output. Output only changes if I change gain in software .

If I use the aux input the physical gain does attentuate the input.

Does the physical gain adjust the input level for speaker/ cd in your units ?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Hey guys, it's me again! I just got a replacement dsp88r back from OCS last week. That's right, it took them about a month to send me a replacement unit with me paying shipping to and from Needless to say, I'm not all that happy about that situation, but I digress...

I'm getting what seems to be the same issues with the replacement unit. Just going on the odds of two separate units with identical problems, I'm going to go with it must be me. I'm thinking I need to go after the power, since the sound changes whenever the car is cut off and re-started. All settings on the factory head unit stay the same when it is turned off(volume/settings/etc.). I have tried high level and low level with the inputs, and have also ran straight to the amp with no issues, so I'm ruling out inputs. The only thing I have left is power to the unit.

I have it and the amp 12v coming from the same always on source, which is the main unswitched line going into the fuse box. That is always hot, no matter what. The amp only has a 40A fuse, so I know the current draw isn't too high. I have them both grounded on the main bolt that holds the seat in place, which was appropriately sanded to bare metal. I have the turn on lead coming from the head unit. The turn on is connected to both REM-IN wires of the DSP, and the REM-OUT is connected to the turn on for the amp as per installation instructions. 

The turn on lead from the HU cuts power whenever the power button is pushed, as it should. My only guess is the main line going into the cabin had the power temporarily cut during the process of starting the car. It's always hot when I check it, but it's kinda hard to check it while starting the car. I can see that being possible if the main line is coming from the engine bay distribution. That's my best guess right now. If that's the case, would it cause the unit to lose it's $%#$ like it does? I would think it stores it's settings on flash memory? Maybe, it re-sums the inputs and levels the frequency again if it loses power, and those initial summing procedures aren't stored? Tomorrow, I'm going to pop the hood and run a wire to the battery directly and test this theory. That's if you guys don't have any better suggestions of course! Have any of you had any issues with it acting wonky after the constant 12v source was interrupted?

Like I said, I'm grasping for straws here. What do you guys think, and do think I'm on the right trouble shooting train with this? I eagerly await your input. If I don't figure this out soon, I'm going to shoot it,lol!


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

Your amp should be connected directly to the battery's plus (+) terminal with an appropriate in-line fuse within 18" of the battery. I would not rely on any other connection points for un-interrupted power. You will have to find a place to penetrate the bulk head.

I see you have a PPI 5-channel in the pic above. You definitely want to go directly to the batt positive terminal.


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

On a car fuse box if something is always hot without key it should stay hot when cranking but may suffer voltage drop. But as above connect directly to battery as amp should be aswel and see if same ocvurs


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

One thing I've notice with mine is that the main harness plug at the DSP and the plug on the controller unit do not seat very positively. I had similar issues until I firmly plugged in the main harness and controller. So far I've only been using the optical input, so I can't comment on the speaker level inputs.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I just got through running the power straight to the battery for the DSP. The PPI 5 channel is still connected as it was. The current shouldn't be an issue for the amp since I have it connected to the main line going into the fuse box. The fuse box has 4 open and hot 30A un-used slots, so the amp which has a 40A fuse shouldn't be too much draw. The amp don't care if there is a momentary voltage drop/cut since it isn't even turned on until 2 seconds after the DSP. It doesn't have anything to remember either,haha! I also noticed how tough the harness was to properly plug in on the DSP, FWIW.

The thing that tipped me off was the 12v cig/aux is always on(ford), but it will cut power during cranking the car. I just cut the car off and re-started to see if my DSP was behaving after the start up. I didn't turn it up or play with it, but it seems to be holding. I won't know for sure until tomorrow when I can really listen to it. I did have to change channels E/F to LP and hook that up to the sub channel of the amp to get bass though. I was getting nothing on G/H? I'm gonna chalk that up to me monkeying with the settings so much that I may have caused that for now. I'll know when I have more time to play with it.

You guys may not have read the initial part of the thread, but this is a company car, and I jumped through a lot of hoops to keep the install undetectable. That's the reason for the Main line connection inside the cabin, so there isn't a extra cable on the battery. I can hide the little power wire for the DSP though. I'm not crazy, and I know it's best to go to the battery for the amp, but I have to keep it stealthy  I will give you guys an update tomorrow to let you know if that took care of the wonky DSP. Thanks again for the input!


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I've had a day to listen while driving at work, and I'm rather underwhelmed with the results thus far. I must be missing something so simple I'm overlooking it. The different settings saved in the different slots, and they're all there when switch between them, and the sound changes. My biggest problem is with my bass. I can't get any bass to output from the G/H channels no matter what I try. I'm feeding the sub channel with E/F run as low pass right now. When I adjusted it last night, the bass was strong from those channels(E/F), and sounded good, so I was happy using E/F. When I headed out to work this morning the bass was weak. It's there, but very weak. I even cranked the gain on the amp today to try and get it back. I shouldn't have to max the gain out on my amp for the sub when the gains for the highs are at 1/4. I don't know what changed, and I saved everything under the CD setting when I saved it to the different slots. 

I hooked back up tonight and re-adjusted, and the bass was plenty loud. I made the adjustments under 88R amp this time instead of "pre". I don't know that that will make any difference, but I'll see tomorrow. Keep in mind, when running straight to the amp without the DSP, everything works perfectly. Well, other than the slight frequency peaks that I got the DSP to fix in the first place. It shouldn't be this hard. I'm either missing something, or I have managed to get two bad DSPs. I think the odds of me missing something are far higher. I've done many things that are far more complex than this, but this thing is kicking my arse!

I'm only running the front channels from the factory HU to the input, since the rears are weird sounding. The CD input setting is set to full range. I get sound from all the door speakers just fine. The bass is good to if turn off the high pass on them, so I know the input is sending everything it should. The only thing I haven't tried is running to the aux input since I got the replacement DSP. I am running the inputs high level, and I don't think the aux can handle that? Anywho, anyone got any fresh ideas?


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Connect the front channels to all four input channels on the 88r. You will have g/h back.

Sub intensity may have a lot to do with time alignment as well.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Anyone having issues with remote on function or have a work around ?

Have the dsp trying to trigger a relay but when I measure voltage via multi meter I see .5 volts and drops quickly to zero.

I'm only using the first of the two remote in wires if that would make a difference.


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

I should be wiring mine up over the weekend so i'll let you know how i get on, on another note i read that to feed g/h channels you need the rear output connected so do that and like stated above if you dont have 2 extra channels just tap into the front channels.


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## JVD240 (Sep 7, 2009)

rallyshark said:


> I've had a day to listen while driving at work, and I'm rather underwhelmed with the results thus far. I must be missing something so simple I'm overlooking it. The different settings saved in the different slots, and they're all there when switch between them, and the sound changes. My biggest problem is with my bass. I can't get any bass to output from the G/H channels no matter what I try. I'm feeding the sub channel with E/F run as low pass right now. When I adjusted it last night, the bass was strong from those channels(E/F), and sounded good, so I was happy using E/F. When I headed out to work this morning the bass was weak. It's there, but very weak. I even cranked the gain on the amp today to try and get it back. I shouldn't have to max the gain out on my amp for the sub when the gains for the highs are at 1/4. I don't know what changed, and I saved everything under the CD setting when I saved it to the different slots.
> 
> I hooked back up tonight and re-adjusted, and the bass was plenty loud. I made the adjustments under 88R amp this time instead of "pre". I don't know that that will make any difference, but I'll see tomorrow. Keep in mind, when running straight to the amp without the DSP, everything works perfectly. Well, other than the slight frequency peaks that I got the DSP to fix in the first place. It shouldn't be this hard. I'm either missing something, or I have managed to get two bad DSPs. I think the odds of me missing something are far higher. I've done many things that are far more complex than this, but this thing is kicking my arse!
> 
> I'm only running the front channels from the factory HU to the input, since the rears are weird sounding. The CD input setting is set to full range. I get sound from all the door speakers just fine. The bass is good to if turn off the high pass on them, so I know the input is sending everything it should. The only thing I haven't tried is running to the aux input since I got the replacement DSP. I am running the inputs high level, and I don't think the aux can handle that? Anywho, anyone got any fresh ideas?


What are you using to control master level?

A lot of OEM head units will do funky EQ stuff throughout the volume range.

Are you EQing/setting up at the same level you're always listening at?

Also, trouble shooting 101. Plug a (different) source into the AUX input. Tune for that. Do you have the same issues?


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

This DSP is essentially giving be the same kinds of problems as the one I sent back. I did try the aux on the previous unit when I still had the PAC hooked up. I don't think the aux can handle the high level inputs I'm running now. The doubling of the fronts makes sense on getting G/H back though. I'll see if I can acquire or make some proper Y cables tomorrow hopefully.

All the time alignment is untouched. All are at 0. What's really getting me is how the bass disappears for no apparent reason. I can hook up the laptop, and read from the DSP or load a setting and the bass is great when the laptop is hooked up. This is even when it's way too low prior to hooking up the computer. As soon as I hook up to the computer(without changing anything else) it's back. It stays when I unhook the computer, but come the next day, it's gone again?! The yellow 12V is connected to the battery, so I know it's not that. 

It just doesn't make sense at all. Like I said before, it most likely has to be something on my end, since I have had two separate DSPs do the same crap. I suppose it's possible there are two with the exact same problem, but very improbable I'd think. I appreciate you guys sticking with this post and offering ideas. I know it's getting old, because I'm about ready to rip the damn thing out AGAIN and beat it with a hammer. If only I spoke Chinese, then I could talk to the people that made it,ha!

I hope like hell the Y cables fix it. The only other thing I can think to do is take the Y cables and run the other side to the sub channel of the amp. That would keep the DSP from screwing with the bass at least. The highs don't seem to change, so I guess that's one solution. That shouldn't be a solution though:mean:


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

It sure sounds like your factory HU does not like this processor and it's not the DSP's fault after having the same issue with a replacement


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

That's entirely possible, but disappointing for a DSP that claims to be compatible with most any factory HU It's not like I have a complicated factory stereo with highs/mids/subs that the DSP is trying to sum. It's just a standard 4 channel Ford HU with no audio bells and whistles. The entire setup is (Factory HU)-(DSP)-(5 channel amp)-(4 2way 6x8s)-( 1 8" sub). That's it. Nothing else is in the loop...


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

I really hope you can fix it. I have 2 sets of new Y RCA's as pictured, 2 in a box. Female to 2 males if that works for your next attempt to fix your issue.

$8.00 shipped box includes 2 Y cables Just as pictured


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep that in mind for sure! I'm going to see what I can come up with around the house first


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Another update: Part good, part bad. The good news is that splitting the fronts and sending both sets to the inputs did get G/H working, so good call there! The bad news is the bass is still disappearing after power down/power back up. Oddly enough, it appears that the EQ settings and crossovers are still holding for the highs after power down/power back up I have no idea why that is?

I'm going to try and call PPI tomorrow and see what their take on it is. If that goes nowhere, and you good folks don't have any additional ideas, I guess I'm gonna bypass the DSP is the sub department. I think that MAY be a solution, but not one I'm particularly thrilled with. I don't know what else to do. I'm getting pretty worn out on trying to make this work, so I need to come to a final solution soon before I lose my mind.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

rallyshark said:


> Another update: Part good, part bad. The good news is that splitting the fronts and sending both sets to the inputs did get G/H working, so good call there! The bad news is the bass is still disappearing after power down/power back up. Oddly enough, it appears that the EQ settings and crossovers are still holding for the highs after power down/power back up I have no idea why that is?
> 
> I'm going to try and call PPI tomorrow and see what their take on it is. If that goes nowhere, and you good folks don't have any additional ideas, I guess I'm gonna bypass the DSP is the sub department. I think that MAY be a solution, but not one I'm particularly thrilled with. I don't know what else to do. I'm getting pretty worn out on trying to make this work, so I need to come to a final solution soon before I lose my mind.


This sounds similar to the problem I was having with my unit. Every time I started the car the EQ settings wouldn't load, however, if I connected my laptop they would load just fine.

I spoke to PPI about it and the tech guy said that there was likely a fault in one of the checks that the unit runs when it powers on. I believe the way he explained it was that just wasn't reading from one of the EEPROMs in the unit when powered on.

The only solution was to send it back and replace with a new one. I haven't been able to verify what tech support told me because I've been waiting more than a month for a replacement from Sonic Electronix.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Canada1869 said:


> This sounds similar to the problem I was having with my unit. Every time I started the car the EQ settings wouldn't load, however, if I connected my laptop they would load just fine.
> 
> I spoke to PPI about it and the tech guy said that there was likely a fault in one of the checks that the unit runs when it powers on. I believe the way he explained it was that just wasn't reading from one of the EEPROMs in the unit when powered on.
> 
> The only solution was to send it back and replace with a new one. I haven't been able to verify what tech support told me because I've been waiting more than a month for a replacement from Sonic Electronix.


I feel your pain man! This is my second unit. I too had to wait a month to get a replacement from OCS... You wouldn't happen to have a Ford head unit would you?


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

What 5 ch amp are you using? Did you remember to make sure the sub's amp's switch is set to external mode?


There was another thread with another 2013 F Focus that will not work with a JBL MS-8 DSP. It seems that Ford may not be compatible or they need extra care to make them work like they should. 

The thing to do would be to try it in another car or swap the amp and the amp being used is a factory amp.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

My amp is a PPI i640.5. It's nothing special, but it's tiny, and fits under the seat with the DSP. There are no real settings for it other that xover/bass boost(which is at 0). Not that it matters, but you can disable the xover on the 4 channel section, but not the sub. It's a really simple setup, or was meant to be,haha! 

I didn't get to call PPI today, because I was too busy with work. I just got through bypassing the sub channel on the DSP, and went straight to the amp with it, so that should fix the bass disappearing part. I also disabled the xover on the DSP to the door speakers and am using the one on the amp. Basically, I'm using the DSP as an EQ for the door speakers at this point. I'll see how that works out for me tomorrow when I have time to listen to it during my travels. I can tell you the bass is MUCH cleaner/better running straight to the amp for the sub channel. I now have the gain for the sub at 1/4 and the remote volume less than half way. It was at 3/4 going through the DSP with the remote volume maxed. I'm leaving the gain for the highs at 1/2 for now.

The EQ settings seem to be holding for the top end, it was just bass that was acting wonky from what little I listened. I really didn't listen much, because it sounded like ass, so I'd get mad and turn it off. The whole reason I got the DSP was because Ford "EQs" their head units to make crap speakers sound better, and that makes good speakers sound bad. I really hope this is a usable solution. I still plan on calling PPI tomorrow though.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

rallyshark said:


> I feel your pain man! This is my second unit. I too had to wait a month to get a replacement from OCS... You wouldn't happen to have a Ford head unit would you?


Nope, I have a Pioneer NEX head unit.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Canada1869 said:


> Nope, I have a Pioneer NEX head unit.


It was just a thought, since I have a Ford HU and am having problems...


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

I got voicemail when I called PPI yesterday, and today. The person I needed to talk was apparently busy both times I called, and their voicemail box is full. I'm still tweaking the EQ for the highs with the sub channel bypassing the DSP. I think this will probably work for me after I get the EQ where I want, so I don't know how much good it's going to do when/if I do talk to the folks at PPI/Soundstream? Anywho, that's the update for now.


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## thechrisl (Jan 12, 2011)

BlueGhost said:


> One thing I've notice with mine is that the main harness plug at the DSP and the plug on the controller unit do not seat very positively. I had similar issues until I firmly plugged in the main harness and controller. So far I've only been using the optical input, so I can't comment on the speaker level inputs.


Just discovering this thread too. So is the consensus that the harness doesn't connect very well? Or is it possible to get it firmly connected? I don't want to break it & have pushed pretty hard already - wanting that hook to pop into place. I definitely have a flaky connection with speaker level inputs & can hear a short/open when tapping the wires.

A couple other things I picked up from the thread - correct me if I'm wrong:

-- You need to connect the remote power to both pins 4 and 14 (I only picked one at random).
-- You need to connect all 4 speaker level inputs to get all output channels working with this input (I am only connected to the front channels of my head unit).

That said, I am already on my second DSP-88R. The first unit had a bad remote volume (knob broken) and the unit frequently reset itself -- perhaps due to the poor harness connection.

After Calling PPI repeatedly, I was told to go to my retailer. Sonic Electronix didn't reply either. Finally, I just ordered another one and RMA-ed the first one. This was, by far, the fastest way to swap units if you have the $$$ to float for a second unit.

My second unit has the audio short/harness issue mentioned above. I am also having trouble getting the presets to recall correctly. As others have said, they just don't seem to write all the parameters 100%.

I am thinking about sending this one back as well. I'm just not thrilled about the product and the level/lack of support. Also flush mounting the master volume is not an option for me and that thing has sharp edges! Seriously those corners can draw blood. I am looking into MiniDSP or something else -- all of which are quite a bit more expensive. I'd like to think you get what you pay for but every one of those processors seems to have some kind of issue with software, noise, etc.

Just throwing in my $.02 but if someone can speak to the harness question I'd appreciate it.


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## All-Or-Nothing (Apr 16, 2013)

How about trying the Aux In and see if that sounds fine or has any problems. I think your problem is that the head unit is still EQing your signal so that is causing problems with your sub.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

rallyshark said:


> Another update: Part good, part bad. The good news is that splitting the fronts and sending both sets to the inputs did get G/H working, so good call there! The bad news is the bass is still disappearing after power down/power back up. Oddly enough, it appears that the EQ settings and crossovers are still holding for the highs after power down/power back up I have no idea why that is?
> 
> I'm going to try and call PPI tomorrow and see what their take on it is. If that goes nowhere, and you good folks don't have any additional ideas, I guess I'm gonna bypass the DSP is the sub department. I think that MAY be a solution, but not one I'm particularly thrilled with. I don't know what else to do. I'm getting pretty worn out on trying to make this work, so I need to come to a final solution soon before I lose my mind.


I got my replacement unit in the mail today and I'm having the same problems again with the sound being different when the laptop is connected vs not connected. At first I thought it was that EQ settings weren't loading when the laptop wasn't connected. 

I ended up doing some investigating by making a bunch of test profiles with EQ settings that were drastically over/under flat. After measuring a bunch of them with a mic it seemed the EQ profiles were actually loading properly for all channels. In the end I found the problem is that the level settings for the channels don't appear to load if a PC isn't connected. My tweeters were super overpowering if I didn't connect my PC, but as soon as I did they sounded great again. As a workaround I level matched my mids/tweets by dropping the gain on my amp and EQing down from 3100Hz+ (my crossover point) to get everything to blend nicely.

Now everything sounds the same whether a PC is connected or not. Maybe your unit is experiencing the level issue as well and is causing your bass to drop off if you don't have a PC connected?


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Interesting that the unit is holding settings the pc connected.

Noticed with mine the unit does not power off with the pc connected. I'd shut down the car but left the netbook connected. 5 hours later I return to find that the processor was still on.

I'm starting to think that some of the connector inputs may have been miss labelled. With mine I get no output on REM out yet the telephone mute which is earthed to use is carrying 12 volts. Could it be a language conversion problem for the OEM to PPI wiring ?

Either way, seem a reasonable number of us are having issues over multiple units and the support for dyi er is lacking. Must be annoying and expensive for the dealers with this product also.


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

thechrisl said:


> Just discovering this thread too. So is the consensus that the harness doesn't connect very well? Or is it possible to get it firmly connected? I don't want to break it & have pushed pretty hard already - wanting that hook to pop into place. I definitely have a flaky connection with speaker level inputs & can hear a short/open when tapping the wires.
> 
> A couple other things I picked up from the thread - correct me if I'm wrong:
> 
> ...


Yep, you've pretty much got it covered from what I know. My plug on both units was also very tight. I just pushed it in really hard until it was all the way seated, and it seems to be okay(aside from my other issues). If you have the cash, I would absolutely recommend going with something else. That being said, if you can get it to work for ya, it's an awesome tool for the $$...


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## rallyshark (Sep 25, 2014)

Canada1869 said:


> I got my replacement unit in the mail today and I'm having the same problems again with the sound being different when the laptop is connected vs not connected. At first I thought it was that EQ settings weren't loading when the laptop wasn't connected.
> 
> I ended up doing some investigating by making a bunch of test profiles with EQ settings that were drastically over/under flat. After measuring a bunch of them with a mic it seemed the EQ profiles were actually loading properly for all channels. In the end I found the problem is that the level settings for the channels don't appear to load if a PC isn't connected. My tweeters were super overpowering if I didn't connect my PC, but as soon as I did they sounded great again. As a workaround I level matched my mids/tweets by dropping the gain on my amp and EQing down from 3100Hz+ (my crossover point) to get everything to blend nicely.
> 
> Now everything sounds the same whether a PC is connected or not. Maybe your unit is experiencing the level issue as well and is causing your bass to drop off if you don't have a PC connected?


I tried playing with the levels A LOT, but then again, it may have worked if I really cranked the EQ on the bass side I suppose. I think my problem was backwards from yours, but it depends on you look at it. When my laptop was plugged in, it sounded great. When it wasn't and the unit was powered down and back up, the bass was basically gone. Everything else was where it should be. I was running the sub gain maxed out with the highs at 1/4 and it was still not quite enough. My workaround was splitting the inputs and running one straight to the amp for the sub channel bypassing the DSP for the bass. Now the sub gain is at 1/8 and the highs are at 3/8. I don't really need much EQing for the sub anyway. I'm still tweaking, but I'm finally getting really close to the sound I wanted It just really sucks that I had to go through all the trouble of returning the DSP, waiting for a month for another, trying all kinds of different configurations, and ripping out the driver's seat multiple times only to compromise on the set up...


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

That sucks you guys are having such issues. Only thing I've done is lose a tune because I didnt save it to a slot and completely unhooked my neg and lost it. My unit will save whatever to you save to a slot.

One thing I did notice is it does not like being disconnected without shutting down the software on the PC.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

REGULARCAB said:


> That sucks you guys are having such issues. Only thing I've done is lose a tune because I didnt save it to a slot and completely unhooked my neg and lost it. My unit will save whatever to you save to a slot.
> 
> One thing I did notice is it does not like being disconnected without shutting down the software on the PC.


What does your unit do if you don't shut down the software first? I never shut it down first. I always save my tune then turn off the ignition when I'm done. I wonder if this might be causing me some problems?

These would be the questions I'd ask PPI if they would only answer the damn phone, reply to emails or respond to voicemails.


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

I read in the manual it the dsp has de equalization, where is that in the options?


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## All-Or-Nothing (Apr 16, 2013)

Just got my 88r in. I will install it later this week.


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

ImK'ed said:


> I read in the manual it the dsp has de equalization, where is that in the options?


The manual is pretty vague. The closet thing I can think of is selecting tweeter, midrange, or fullrange for the speaker inputs and channel summing.


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## Tacoma Dynamics (Mar 21, 2014)

These issues sound very similar to mine. my problem was if I cycled the ignition the tweeter levels wouldn't save and they were screeming at me even with the gains at zero. of course everything was fine with the laptop plugged in. after a month or so of dealing with this horrible issue I ended up just swapping my mids to the tweeter spot and everything was great. so it was saving everything but the levels. I did have them down 11 to 13 db's and thought maybe that was too much for it to handle but now I have the left side down 1 db and I cant tell the difference after the key is cycled which is the only thing I care about. other than the initial hick up I'm very happy with the unit and ppi's customer service was good to me. I like PPI and want to support them in the future so I hope this was just a software issue they're having with their first run of these. if it works, $200 is a steal for on of these especially if it's your first dsp as it's very simple and user friendly and def brought my system to another level. good luck.


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

Does anyone have the mute trigger (brown wire) actuating the Aux In correctly?

I am trying to use the Aux in for a Parrot bluetooth Ipod module which has RCA outputs, which I have connected to the Aux In on the DSP 88. I used a relay to get a 12v trigger for the brown MUTE trigger wire, but when I switch to the Parrot device, the DSP mutes but does not play through the Aux In. If I use the DSP remote to select the Aux in, the unit plays fine (after I disconnect the mute trigger). I can't find any means to configure the mute trigger, as is suggested in the manual:

“The MUTE IN terminal can be used to enable the AUX IN input. In this case the output mute function, set by default, will be disabled.” It also states “ The PHONE MUTE terminal can also be used to enable the AUX input. In this case the PHONE +/- inputs are inactive.”

I haven't tried to use the PHONE Mute yet, as that requires a ground trigger and my relay setup provides 12v. 

Anyone have any luck getting this to work as indicated in the manual?

Tech support has not replied as of yet...


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

Whats with the two remote in wires? Should i use both or one? My guess is maybe internally they are not connected but both switch on the dsp, maybe for those who want to use aux in without switching on the hu so you have two seperate remote turn on?


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## thechrisl (Jan 12, 2011)

Read the previous page. The consensus seems to be that you connect both remote in wires, shorting one to the other. I still have not done this, I picked one at random and mine starts up and shuts down fine. I'm also not using the remote outs.

Just to follow up, I am going to send mine back (2nd time). I am experiencing the same issue as some of the others in this thread -- settings not being saved once the car is shut off. Trying to figure out which particular settings are missing, then somehow compensating at the amp level is just too much hassle for me. This product is sketchy at best, guess I'm going to have to double down cost-wise and get something that (hopefully) works as advertised.

My Carputer w/ active DSP project has not been fun. Already had to replace faulty memory, then the DC-DC converter (mini-box) went bad, and now I've been through 2 DSP-88Rs.

Anyway, woe is me... I may be getting a Helix DSP or 3Sixty.3 but only with a decent return policy!


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

ImK'ed said:


> Whats with the two remote in wires? Should i use both or one? My guess is maybe internally they are not connected but both switch on the dsp, maybe for those who want to use aux in without switching on the hu so you have two seperate remote turn on?


I am only using one. Unit seems to work fine. Haven't pulled the cover to see if both are internally connected.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

swest1970 said:


> I am only using one. Unit seems to work fine. Haven't pulled the cover to see if both are internally connected.


When I chatted with PPI's tech support a while back I was told to only connect one remote wire not both. I probably should have asked why at the time.


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

Canada1869 said:


> When I chatted with PPI's tech support a while back I was told to only connect one remote wire not both. I probably should have asked why at the time.


If they are connected internally, I wonder if one of them is meant to be a remote out without the delay added?


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

BlueGhost said:


> If they are connected internally, I wonder if one of them is meant to be a remote out without the delay added?


The blue (REM OUT) wire is the remote out (turn on) to the amps or accessory equipment. There is a noticeable delay between the red wire (REM IN) getting 12v and the amp turn on, which is expected. I have a spare unit at home so I will pop the cover and check later tonight if they are connected internally.

So no-one is using the Aux in or Phone mute triggers?


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Was going to use the Orange post phone mute but my hands free is part of the oem sat Nav which will connect via high level. Might pay to use a combo of the two phone mutes to see if one switchs input to AUX. I did notice 12 volts present on the brown mute.

Manual could really do with a supplement or additional connection diagrams .
Suspect the second remote in is to cover the situation where your HU is off so your hands free kit can cover amp power on.


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

swest1970 said:


> The blue (REM OUT) wire is the remote out (turn on) to the amps or accessory equipment. There is a noticeable delay between the red wire (REM IN) getting 12v and the amp turn on, which is expected. I have a spare unit at home so I will pop the cover and check later tonight if they are connected internally.
> 
> So no-one is using the Aux in or Phone mute triggers?


I'm using the Phone mute, but not for an aux switch. I'm using it with a hand free kit.

Can anyone here read Chinese? Maybe we can track down the original manual and clarify everything that was lost in translation.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

NealfromNZ said:


> Was going to use the Orange post phone mute but my hands free is part of the oem sat Nav which will connect via high level. Might pay to use a combo of the two phone mutes to see if one switchs input to AUX. I did notice 12 volts present on the brown mute.
> 
> Manual could really do with a supplement or additional connection diagrams .
> Suspect the second remote in is to cover the situation where your HU is off so your hands free kit can cover amp power on.


This was my feeling after reading the two paragraphs in the manual for the millionth time. i.e. one of the mute wires would act more like a "mode" for the other mute trigger wire. It seems like the manual might be saying that the state of the brown 'Mute In' wire determines whether the orange 'Phone Mute' wire mutes the output for phone calls or switches to Aux. Can someone test this?


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

My DSP-88R just killed my Morel MT-23's.

I had been running a pair of MT-12's for awhile, handling from 8KHz on up. But I also have a pair of MT-23's I've been sitting on that I thought I would sell. Since the order for the group buy tweeters is taking so long to get delivered, I thought I'd swap out to my MT-23's just to try them out.

I really liked the sound on them, but decided to run them a bit lower. I changed the settings to 5KHz high-pass, on a 12dB filter. This is more than acceptable as double Fs is still below 2KHz. 

Everything sounded great, and I decided to leave them in. I saved the settings to position 1 in memory, got the confirmation that it had saved, and unplugged the laptop and turned off my car.

I went back out an hour later to run an errand and turned on the car. The music sounded a bit weird, but I thought it might have been the track. I was just about to change tracks when I head that crackle that just makes any of us want to weep. 

Immediately I turned off the volume and as soon as I got back home I plugged in my laptop. There were no settings saved at all, in any of the banks, and I had settings in slots 1-4. I had been running wide-open on all channels. 

I pulled the settings back in from my laptop and tried it again. The music sounded just like it should (as far as EQ & imaging), except I had confirmed I had blown my MT-23's as they are now still crackling. 

Between this incident, the fact that the remote-out stopped working a month previous (I'm not overloading it either, I'm using an Arduino to sense 12V and then using it to open a relay), and the fact that I'm limited to using the Aux-In because it won't recognize both RCA's on the CD-in, I'm pretty much done with this piece of trash. 

I'm going to be contacting PPI about this later this week and see about a refund or paying the difference on a DEQ.8.

As someone with a background in product dev and QA, the DSP-88R should have never been released in its current form, IMO.


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

Jepalan said:


> This was my feeling after reading the two paragraphs in the manual for the millionth time. i.e. one of the mute wires would act more like a "mode" for the other mute trigger wire. It seems like the manual might be saying that the state of the brown 'Mute In' wire determines whether the orange 'Phone Mute' wire mutes the output for phone calls or switches to Aux. Can someone test this?


I posed a very similar question to PPI technical support. 

The response I got was "let me get one out and mess with it and I will get back to you."

It would appear that they don't know either. When I get some feedback, I'll post it here.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

Kriszilla said:


> My DSP-88R just killed my Morel MT-23's.
> <snip>.


Well, this^^ and the rest of this thread seals it for me. I will *not* be purchasing a DSP-88R like I thought.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Even If I got a $1000 DSP, I would still install a 30-40 uf cap in line with each tweeter, not so much about a power failure, more about someone messing with your settings. It is just cheap insurance.


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## All-Or-Nothing (Apr 16, 2013)

The power plug in really sucks on this thing. I feel like running rubberbands around it to make sure it holds in place.

Settings will save and everything else is fine but sheeeesh.....that plug in is terrible.


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## JVD240 (Sep 7, 2009)

Alrojoca said:


> Even If I got a $1000 DSP, I would still install a 30-40 uf cap in line with each tweeter, not so much about a power failure, more about someone messing with your settings. It is just cheap insurance.


Meh. I never have. No issues. Not like someone is going to plug in their laptop and change your crossovers while you're grabbing a slurpee. Haha.

I see your point though.

This PPI unit seems like a nightmare. I guess it is pretty much the cheapest unit available. Lol.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

JVD240 said:


> Meh. I never have. No issues. Not like someone is going to plug in their laptop and change your crossovers while you're grabbing a slurpee. Haha.
> 
> I see your point though.
> 
> This PPI unit seems like a nightmare. I guess it is pretty much the cheapest unit available. Lol.


 Correct! except I was not referring to all DSP's in general. People with a Pioneer 80prs head units could be victims of tweeters being blown too if they mess up with the settings or anyone takes your car to party all night long. Unless some head units, or DSP's have assigned channels just for tweeters then I would assume it is safe since the range of frequency would be limited to those channels, if not, the risk is there, almost like having insurance for fire damage in your house. 

There have been instances shared, of main batteries running out of power, then people getting jump and for whatever reason, either too much time passed by without power or other reasons, the settings were lost and some $400 plus tweeters were gone afterwards and it usually happens when we let relatives use our cars.


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## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

Alrojoca said:


> Even If I got a $1000 DSP, I would still install a 30-40 uf cap in line with each tweeter, not so much about a power failure, more about someone messing with your settings. It is just cheap insurance.


I did have Solen caps installed. However, they are soldered to the MT-12's. I truly didn't anticipate that I'd have this issue so I just temp-connected my other Morel's without the caps as I wanted to play with different crossover points.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Kriszilla said:


> I did have Solen caps installed. However, they are soldered to the MT-12's. I truly didn't anticipate that I'd have this issue so I just temp-connected my other Morel's without the caps as I wanted to play with different crossover points.


I'm very sorry that happened to you. I would be very upset too, I hope PPI helps you get a different DSP

I don't run my tweeters active yet, however when I do I'm going to put the caps, where they can fit and be hidden, soldered to the wiring most likely far from the tweeters, and not close to the amp either, that way I can have caps in the wiring ready to protect any tweeter I use.

Just a thought that may save some work.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Spent a number of hours trying different settings and loads on the ppi-88r

Observations 

Main connector

Main connector was initially very loose. However once pushed onto dsp connection became solid. Now takes some effort to remove which is a good thing. 

Remote in
Dsp has two, allows two different sources to power on dsp. Original thought that both where required to get remote on to function properly. Only one is required in my system

Remote out
Is limited to 130 millivolt. This is ok for amps with solid state turn on. For old school amps this may not be enough to power on in which case use a low current relay or solid state relay. Some generic Bosch style relays exceed the remote output of the dsp and wont turn on.

High level input
Found 2 volt unbalanced RCA marginal on this input. Found needed to run full input gain on DSP. However, seems to support balanced audio inputs from OEM car stereos such as many circa 2000 BMW tuner and nav units without a LOC

RCA aux input
Straightforward, uses gain control pot to set levels.

Optical in
Straightforward, audio levels seem to be pre-set and correct. Haven't tried 192k/24 but have no issues with 96k/24 audio or lower 4nk /16 bit. This connection gets the best audio results IMO from the unit. Very good sounding DSP for price point


Configuration
Initial power on means every channel appears to run full spectrum audio
Loss of power to unit seems to put unit into default which is full spectrum audio on every channel
Connecting pc via com port and running test will default unit into full spectrum audio on all channels (be warned if running fully active)
Connecting pc will also turn dsp on and will stay on until pc is disconnected

If running generic settings wtg hpf / lpf / bandpass remember to copy each channel using copy a to b setting.

Safe guard your system, save a DSP map to each of the 10 slots.( stops someone fiddling and selecting a default map in the spare slots)

You execute the maps via the controller. Select number and press ok.

If you loose power to the dsp / disconnect your battery remember to enter a map number and press ok. Otherwise the dsp will send full range audio to every channel. Not good for active setups !


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## ImK'ed (Aug 12, 2013)

Good info!


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

NealfromNZ said:


> Spent a number of hours trying different settings and loads on the ppi-88r
> <snip>
> Remote out - Is limited to 130 millivolt.
> <snip>


Thanks for investigating & posting. VERY helpful.
I think you meant 130 milliamps
Ouch -> re defaulting to full spectrum.


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

NealfromNZ said:


> Safe guard your system, save a DSP map to each of the 10 slots.( stops someone fiddling and selecting a default map in the spare slots)
> 
> You execute the maps via the controller. Select number and press ok.
> 
> If you loose power to the dsp / disconnect your battery remember to enter a map number and press ok. Otherwise the dsp will send full range audio to every channel. Not good for active setups !


Mine only lets me select between slots that I have saved. Right now I only have slots one and two filled, and the up/down selection on the controller only shows 1 and 2.

I'll ditto the Ouch! on the reset to full spectrum on disconnect. Guess I'll use my amps high pass crossovers set to a lower point as a safe guard.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Jepalan said:


> Thanks for investigating & posting. VERY helpful.
> I think you meant 130 milliamps
> Ouch -> re defaulting to full spectrum.


Yes, sorry. 130 mill amps. The relay I tried required 180 and the power on terminal dropped to zero volts.

With two amps connected I did see the remote on terminal drop by one volt but hasn't been an issue in terms of power on for the unit.


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## Lyferxb9s (Dec 26, 2012)

I didn't read through every page but I'm having similar issues. My dsp isn't saving my settings properly. I can scan through them with the remote but there is nO audible difference between any even though there are very drastic changes between each. Also when I click view from device it only shows 300-700z on all channels except the sub channel


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

Quick update after having problems with my DSP-88R not saving the channel gain settings correctly.

I've gone through 3 units so far and a pile of conversations with PPI to resolve the problem. It turns out that not having the remote connected will cause the profiles to not save/load correctly when the unit is powered on. Apparently some of the settings are saved directly to the remote (which is pretty ass backwards if you ask me). For some reason I thought the remote was optional, but apparently this isn't the case.

Anyways, after connecting the remote and re-loading my saved tune to the DSP all settings seem to be working correctly. I made up a few test profiles with the individual channel gains wildly different and I can audibly hear the difference when I swap between profiles using the remote.

Hopefully this helps folks with troubleshooting their units.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Good info on the remote.

I haven't seen the gain issue with mine. ( remote connected )

The frequent issue I have is an audio output lock up ( BMW e46)
The situation occurs on car startup. 
Ignition position 1 powers up the factory Nav system. This provides remote on dap-88r
Ignition position 2 primes fuel pump and engine electronics ( factory Nav still providing remote on)
I wait a couple of seconds to prime fuel pump etc.
Ignition position 3 starts engine, the Bmw has an unloaded relay the drops power to everything that's not related to safety or starting car.

At this point remote on will drop to ppi-88r for roughly 2 seconds whilst starting.
Roughly every second time the ppi-88r will lock up with no audio output.
The unit clearly doesn't like the power dropped for a two second cycle and locks up.

I'm going to put a hold timer ( I'll use an old turbo timer) on the remote on to remove the two second power drop ss the unit is ok 90 % on initial power up.

This might be the firmware issue (re flash) talked about in a earlier post.


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## nadcicle (Aug 21, 2013)

Noticed a remote out hiccup with my unit and seen this post explaining the remote out low amperage. 

I didn't notice it until trying to give myself my first car off demo. The unit is simply not putting out enough power to energize my relay while the car is off. I can turn the car on and the relay will energize no problem. We are talking a tiny bit of voltage different of like .3 or .4 since this hyundai has a 13.8 internal voltage regulator vs the surface resting voltage of 12.9-13.1 or so.

I don't know how I feel about this just yet, but I will require the ability to demo with the car off for shows. In db drag bass racing you are required to turn your car off in the event you tie each other a number of times. I would lose by default if I hadn't of known sooner.


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## Lyferxb9s (Dec 26, 2012)

My DSP triggers all my amps at low voltage. The issue with mine is not being able to see what settings I have on each saved section after saving it. I go to view them and it just shows the default settings.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Lyferxb9s said:


> My DSP triggers all my amps at low voltage. The issue with mine is not being able to see what settings I have on each saved section after saving it. I go to view them and it just shows the default settings.



I ended up creating a naming convection for each of the positions.
E.G. 
pos1_no rears_midbass75hzNO_TA
pos10_rearfill_midbass63hzTA_FR

Helps jog my memory as to what tune was for each position and I edit the position files when making minor tweaks and push to flash position after editing.


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## Lyferxb9s (Dec 26, 2012)

I just wish I could look back at like, file 4 and see what it is and make minor adjustments instead of starting all over or having to take screen shots of everything and savings them.


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## Canada1869 (May 23, 2014)

Lyferxb9s said:


> I just wish I could look back at like, file 4 and see what it is and make minor adjustments instead of starting all over or having to take screen shots of everything and savings them.


Here's what works for me. All of my settings always come up in the software on screen.

1. Select your tune using the remote (#4 in your case).
2. Open DSP Software
3. Select "DSP-88R-Pre"
4. Select "Read from Device"


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Subscribing as I just picked one of the Harmony units up from Techronics on eBay on the cheap. 

Thanks for the detailed research you've done so far, y'all.

I noticed my quick start guide is English on the outside pages, but Spanish on the inside. LOL at that.


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## Lyferxb9s (Dec 26, 2012)

Canada1869 said:


> Here's what works for me. All of my settings always come up in the software on screen.
> 
> 1. Select your tune using the remote (#4 in your case).
> 2. Open DSP Software
> ...


Thank you. However, that is what I select and it doesn't work.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

I'm having issues with my unit not saving my presets. Is anyone else having this issue. My headunit is a sony mexn5000bt, and I'm plugged into aux.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Also I'm having issues with the remote where my amps aren't turning off. Is this common?


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

I'd check the power on signal into the DSP. If this isn't dropping then the DSP will not power off the amps. 

I'd also double check the power connector wiring into the DSP remembering that these gave two different power on's and the 12 volt constant is close by. 

With you two issues it sounds like you may have transposed 12v battery constant / battery feed with second power on input.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

NealfromNZ said:


> I'd check the power on signal into the DSP. If this isn't dropping then the DSP will not power off the amps.
> 
> I'd also double check the power connector wiring into the DSP remembering that these gave two different power on's and the 12 volt constant is close by.
> 
> With you two issues it sounds like you may have transposed 12v battery constant / battery feed with second power on input.


Not sure what you mean by "dropping," but How i wired them is the 2 remotes in (red wire) I connected to my headunit. The 12v constant(yellow) is tied into my power distribution block. The remote out (blue) is going to my amps. And the black is ground. is this correct?


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

The HU turns on the DSP and the DSP turns on the amps using their remote wires.

As Neal mentioned, double check that harness connector on the DSP, make sure it is connected all the way in and tight, that can be the issue with not saving the settings.


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

atownmack said:


> Not sure what you mean by "dropping," but How i wired them is the 2 remotes in (red wire) I connected to my headunit. The 12v constant(yellow) is tied into my power distribution block. The remote out (blue) is going to my amps. And the black is ground. is this correct?


Your wiring is correct. 

What I met was a the voltage dropping on yellow/ 12 volt in.

Do you have the DSP remote plugged in ? The unit will not perform correctly without it.

The only other thing I can think of that keeps the unit powered on is having the USB port on the DSP connect to a pc or USB hub.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

NealfromNZ said:


> Your wiring is correct.
> 
> What I met was a the voltage dropping on yellow/ 12 volt in.
> 
> ...


Neal you hit the nail on the head. I had the usb plugged in!


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

I got a new harness from ppi today free of charge, as tech support has stated that some customers are having issues with the old harness. This time around I'm connecting the rcas to the harness and not the aux input, but rather the cd input. Now all I get is channels b and d to work. Any suggestions?


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## Big_amz (Oct 24, 2012)

Any one have problems with their dsp-88r not communicating with their laptop?

im keep getting rs232 error when trying to connect to the DSP and running test


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## BlueGhost (Jul 28, 2014)

Big_amz said:


> Any one have problems with their dsp-88r not communicating with their laptop?
> 
> im keep getting rs232 error when trying to connect to the DSP and running test


Is the DSP-88R on? Mine will show power and show being plugged into the laptop off of USB power only, but it will not connect until the DSP-88R is turned on.


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## Big_amz (Oct 24, 2012)

thanks Blue Ghost

the dsp blue LED next to the power connector turns on, which i assume is the dsp is powered up. After a couple of minutes i then connect the usb lead to laptop, and then the blue led by the usb connector lights up aswell

is this what you mean?


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## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Big_amz said:


> Any one have problems with their dsp-88r not communicating with their laptop?
> 
> im keep getting rs232 error when trying to connect to the DSP and running test


Try cycling through the com port numbers and test each one. On my notebook its something like com port 5


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## Big_amz (Oct 24, 2012)

if i try to cycle through the other com ports it doesnt connect

it only lets me connect and test the port that the com port is assigned to under windows device manager but once connected its the test that fails on the rs232

is there any way of reseting the dsp itself?


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

Big_amz said:


> if i try to cycle through the other com ports it doesnt connect
> 
> it only lets me connect and test the port that the com port is assigned to under windows device manager but once connected its the test that fails on the rs232
> 
> is there any way of reseting the dsp itself?


Assuming you have downloaded and installed the correct USB to serial drivers for your Windows OS? They are available from the PPI website.


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## Big_amz (Oct 24, 2012)

yep i downloaded the drivers from the ppi website for windows 7/8 as im using windows 7 OS and ive installed the drivers before plugging in the dsp unit

are you guys using both of the remote in (red) wires or just one?


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

No luck? Same error here


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## Big_amz (Oct 24, 2012)

i didnt get anywhere with this


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## swest1970 (Oct 23, 2014)

Big_amz said:


> i didnt get anywhere with this


From your previous posts, it sounds like you have the DSP powered up (blue LED next to primary wire connector), and the unit is connected to the computer (correct com port, blue LED next to the USB port) and the unit will still not connect. The unit should be connecting to your computer and passing the rs-232 test at this point.

Have you tried a different computer? 

I'm not an expert on debugging serial communications failures. Sorry.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Hey guys in having trouble again with my dsp88r not turning off my amps. Is anyone else having this same issue? Does the unit need a minimum cable gauge to work correctly? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

You have one of the red remotes connected to the headunit and the blue connected to the amps right? As long as none are shorted, check that the blue light next to the harness turns off when you shut it off.


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Yes the red is going to the headunit and the blue to the amps.

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

Just test the remote out with a multimeter, easy solution


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

I have and both remotes (red and blue) are getting 12v with the car off.

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

So the red remote is either touching your power wire or your headunit is the problem


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

I don't think it's the headunit because before the dsp the remote worked fine.

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Now the dsp88r won't turn on unless the red remote-in's is touching the yellow power cord. Any suggestions, I'm so lost at this point!

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## Kazuhiro (Apr 28, 2015)

If it wont work unless your red remote is touching the yellow power then your red remote clearly isnt getting 12v from the headunit remote on its own?


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## atownmack (Mar 20, 2013)

Finally got the amps to turn off. With the car, but the dsp is staying on. Just left a show and several guys said there processors remained on continuously. Now of them run the dsp88r, but all said that they have no issues with it being on all the time.

Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

atownmack said:


> Finally got the amps to turn off. With the car, but the dsp is staying on. Just left a show and several guys said there processors remained on continuously. Now of them run the dsp88r, but all said that they have no issues with it being on all the time.
> 
> Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


I didn't keep my 88 long but when I had it, I didn't have this issue at all. It delayed by a few seconds but it shut off. Having it run all the time is a sure-fire way to run down your battery in no time.


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## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

atownmack said:


> Finally got the amps to turn off. With the car, but the dsp is staying on. Just left a show and several guys said there processors remained on continuously. Now of them run the dsp88r, but all said that they have no issues with it being on all the time.
> 
> Sent from my D6616 using Tapatalk


Try running the remote line your using for your amps to the red on the dsp. I wouldn't want to leave the dsp on with the car off, that sounds like a recipe to have dead battery in the morning.


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