# New Build - VW 2017 Passat B7



## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

It has been a long time since I had a build on this forum, but I have continued to to remain active from time to time on here. After 5 years of not having a good sounding system in my previous vehicle and now my current vehicle, I have started this build log on my current ride. It's a 2017 Passat SE TSI (B7)).

The car came factory with VW Composition Media Headunit and non-Fender system. Even though the system sounds alright for a factory setup which comes with 4 tweets and 4 mid in each door. Since this a non-Fender, it doesn't come a sub, so all the low end is produced by the door mids right now. Even though the tweets are on the dash and mids in the doors, the system still sounds balance and centered.

The goal for my system is to install a 3 way front with IB trunk single sub, currently keep the OEM Headunit and retaining as much trunk space as possible. I travel atleast 1hr to and from work everyday so keeping access to spare tire is a must.

Here's a list of equipment I am working with for now:
VW Composition Media Headunit
Audible Physics Ram 6 
Audible Physics Ram 1
Hybrid Audio L3v2 (Possible Karma Mobile Aspect 3)
Zapco Z150.4 Gen1
Zapco Z1KD

DSP: Currently is RF360.3, but looking into getting a Zapco Dsp-Z8 II.

Since I am going to be keeping the VW CompMedia Headunit, I have considered tapping the signal and using a Wavtech Link 4 LOC. 
link4 — Wāvtech 
Considered this LOC because it allows for 2-channels of speaker signal and convert to 4-channel analog RCA, puts out a Remote Turn-on. It also, lets you connect an Aux--in and RCA out in case I want to direct connect my phone or DAC.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I''ve had my Passat B7 going on 5months, and since then I have scoured the web for helpful info and build idea and there are literally a handful of builds. Since there aren't as many buildlogs for our B7 Passats, I will try to inciteful as possible to help others that may decide to acquire this a B7 and are considering adding a proper sound system.

Since my ride is a daily driver, I have to do the install in small pieces and still allow for drivability while being disassembled. I am no professional but I will do my best to build as proper as possible.

Well here come the pics....














































For the last couple of days, either after work or free days during the weekend, I have managed to apply 1-layer of deadener in the trunk, underside of the rear shelf (no pic), and under the rear seat.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Yesterday I managed to take apart the drivers door and deaden the best I could. (As far as my arms would reach).


















The wonderful VW manufacturers decided to install their speakers using Rivnuts. So, I had to drill out the rivnut and install Threaded insert (10-24). Here is a better view of the install.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

For right now this is what my plan is as far as Trunk IB install. Plan is to use an Adire Tempest 15. Not yet acquired.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well ran into my 1st problem with the Passat..... Any help from Passat guys.

So this weekend I disassembled the front door install the deadener and removed those pesky Rivnuts. Apparently, something didn't get reconnected correctly because now I am getting a Keyless Defective on MFI. I know that I have to remove the door panel off, but where do I start checking? Is this something, maybe the battery needs to disconnected to reset? Any help will be appreciated.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

The plan looks good Juan. Hope you get all your gremlins figured out.
Are you guys still in Florida?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Notloudenuf said:


> The plan looks good Juan. Hope you get all your gremlins figured out.
> Are you guys still in Florida?


Kendal.....Yes, we are still in Melbourne, FL area

These darn Gremlins... I'll get them worked out. Its probably something simple.


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## srobinso11 (Dec 9, 2019)

I have a 2018 GT that I hope to start a build on soon. I look forward to seeing how you implement your 3 way since I will be doing the same. 

I have already sound deadened my doors and did not run into the problem you are having. Obviously check all of the connectors when you pull the panel off again. In your picture of the drivers side door with the deadener, check the plug all of the way to the left end of the door. That is pretty close to where the lock actuator is I think. Also, I faintly recall someone on here with a Passat that forgot to plug back in some connector in the trunk and this caused them problems. I don't remember the post being real clear on what cable it was, but I recall it being right behind the rear seat, maybe on the bottom of the package tray. You should also check the battery in your keyfob. Hope this helps.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Srobinso11..... Thanks, I will check that connector. I figured it would be something I may have bumped or forgotten to reconnect. I will post the status of it later today.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So learning lesson for everyone.... make sure that all the connectors CLICK into their slots. 

This is what was wrong with my door sensor failure.

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well I know it has been awhile since there was any updates on the build, but we all know how life can be. Was able to purchase the rest of the install equipment needed.

CCF mat for the doors and rear deck.
CCF eggcrate for the door isolation.
Power kits, techflex, speaker wiring, and all required terminations.

Also, purchased a Wavtech Link4 which will give me high-to-low level conversion from the Factory HU. This will give me a good gain control going into my newly acquired Zapco DSP-Z8 IV ii. 

I went with Z8 IV because it comes with a control and also built in BT. I will be playing around with the BT option because the Link4 allows me to Aux-in my media and would allow me independent volume control for it too. We will see which option works better in my application.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Currently trying to decide which combination of speakers will work best for SQ in my vehicle.









So we have either a Hybrid L3v2 or a Fountek Fr59exe paired with Audible Physics Ram 1A. So I can either pair them and place them on the apillars or spilt them: mids in the pillars and tweets in the OEM dash location firing up at the windshield.


As for the Midbass I will play with the Audible Physics in the door, along with all the added sound deadening. Depending on whether the rattles are controlled in the doors, but if they can not be tamed I will relocate them to the underseat area in proper enclosures and see how they perform there. I may try that anyways and sample out the Scanspeak Discovery 22w in underseat enclosures and see which performs the best.


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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Black Rain said:


> Currently trying to decide which combination of speakers will work best for SQ in my vehicle.
> View attachment 317070
> 
> 
> ...


I still plan to test my gladens under the seat, ported and sealed. We will have to compare our measurements. So much room under these passats


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

There definitely is space there. I think we can easily get 0.5-0.75ft3 the front edge of the seat. We shall see. I may try the messing with Midbass first since they say that's the most important speaker and hardest to work-in. I the doors aren't the most ideal place for bass speakers, so the underseat may just be the way to go. And to decide whether to go with Ram6A or SS 22w in fully sealed enclosures.

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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

If you need any help fiberglassing or welding or anything I'm in ft Pierce.


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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

excited to have another person on the same adventure


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well hopefully everyone enjoyed their Thanksgiving.

So spent 5 hrs today after ordering my sub (StereoIntegrity HT-18v3)working on the build out for it and do some possible amplifier layout. Some days we spend many hours on what seems to be wasted time but it's needed. 

I was really wanting to have it follow the backseat opening but couldn't figure out the right measurements due to the offset curves on the wheel arches. So this is what I came up. I know that you see light coming from the sides, but I have re-measured and have the corrected numbers from left to right. I intend on securing the board from the top using threaded inserts/bolts. I need to look into where to secure it via trunk floor also.






























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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Small update.

Today received my SI HT-18v3 D2. So time to finish up the sub mounting board and amp rack.





































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Had a couple hours to spare before going to work. Figured I would try to cut the hole in the main baffle and see how it fits. 

Managed to learn that the punchdown route with a Circle Jig still requires some sort of knowledge as to how the router really operates. It's not cut and dry. Luckily I was able to fix my screw-up with a Jigsaw, which means it wasn't too too bad of a hole cut.

I temporarily mounted the sub and put it back in the car to see how it'll look. I like the preliminary look.





































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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Black Rain said:


> Had a couple hours to spare before going to work. Figured I would try to cut the hole in the main baffle and see how it fits.
> 
> Managed to learn that the punchdown route with a Circle Jig still requires some sort of knowledge as to how the router really operates. It's not cut and dry. Luckily I was able to fix my screw-up with a Jigsaw, which means it wasn't too too bad of a hole cut.
> 
> I temporarily mounted the sub and put it back in the car to see how it'll look. I like the preliminary look.


Looks great! Probably going to need some sound deadening on that trunk lid at the very least.  Will it be a double thick baffle?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Bbfoto.... I plan to put some deadener on the lid and some CCF on the floor under the sub. I still need to add another 1/2" Birch board, which will give it a 1.25" thick baffle total. It will also be chamfered around the sub opening. Plus the carpeting over top, that board is going to be so tight in that hole...lol. No pun intended....

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Been having trouble getting the final shape on this baffle done. There seems to be too much light coming from the around the baffle. 

I'm thinking I should do a frameout which may cover all the gaps. We will see what comes out of this one....lol 

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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

Maybe something like this could help.









Contour Gauge Duplicator with Metal Adjustable Lock - Contour Gauge Tool - Irregular Shapes 2 pack 10" & 5" Corner Measuring Tool + Carpenter Pencil and Sharpner By Lunorus. - - Amazon.com


Contour Gauge Duplicator with Metal Adjustable Lock - Contour Gauge Tool - Irregular Shapes 2 pack 10" & 5" Corner Measuring Tool + Carpenter Pencil and Sharpner By Lunorus. - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

Contour gauges are great but not really helpful if you're trying to reach in to corners. The best way is to make a template using a bunch of smaller pieces of softer, cheaper material, like hardboard or foamboard. Something that can easily be trimmed and shaped. The individual pieces can then be attached via brad nails or CA glue. Then when you have the full sized baffle templated out, pull it out of the car and transfer the shape to your larger baffle board.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

pwnt by pat said:


> Contour gauges are great but not really helpful if you're trying to reach in to corners. The best way is to make a template using a bunch of smaller pieces of softer, cheaper material, like hardboard or foamboard. Something that can easily be trimmed and shaped. The individual pieces can then be attached via brad nails or CA glue. Then when you have the full sized baffle templated out, pull it out of the car and transfer the shape to your larger baffle board.


Thanks, that's what I was thinking or create a frame out of something like 1x2.

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So it's been a bit since I updated..

Well finally was able to find and receive some B7 a-pillars so I can start with the front of the vehicle. 

Tried to layout a couple of options that can best suit the car. I considered placing the the midrange in the dash like PSSOUND would have you do for optimal performance. Unfortunately, that's not an option with the B7 dash and it's tweeter location bezel.

So we are going with the pillars and here are some of the options I am considering. These are just some mock up. I plan to do some Response testing and see how they pan out. But for today here are the placement pics.



















































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

After picking everything up since night has fallen, I popped off the apillar and realized how much depth there was on the pillar. So tomoorrw I will do a couple more mockups that may be better.

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Looks like I got the angle and placement figured out for the pillar midrange. I got both to be just off axis.

Excuse the blurry pics of the backsides, sun glare.












































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Small updates no matter how tedious and boring.....

Prepped one side of the speaker wiring. Techflexed 3 pairs of speaker wires and proper termination. Even prepped my Scanspeak Discovery 22W midbass drivers.






























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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well took some underseat measurements the other day, and unfortunately I am unable to use my SS Discovery 22w (8") midbass. So I am going to go back to using my AP Ram 6A mids instead. 

After relocating the OEM BT module that was originally on the floor, now attached to the underside of the seat. I took some measurements and came up with enclosures of around 0.3ft^3. I will came back to the midbass in a bit.

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So spent the day trying to finish up the sub baffle board. Had some good advise given by PSSound Patreon and other folks on the Infinite Baffle FB page. After all the advice, this is what it looks like now.
















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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I was given some good advise to use double 3/4" baffle boards and proper securing of the baffle to the vehicle. This allowed for me place my sub with the magnet facing the rear seats and with plenty of clearance of the seats.























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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Another cold day here in Central Florida, so small update. Managed to drill out and place threaded inserts for M6 screws. Also, screwed and glued both boards together. Now to let them dry. 












































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

A Velentine's weekend update.....A pillar build using wood puzzle buildup for strength and sturdiness.





































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So did a little work on the car today. 

I worked on getting the tweeter pods correct. I am using a couple of old tweeter mounting angled bezels. Unfortunately, they are too big so I have to fabricate some spacer rings. The best thing is that they are so super tight that no screws need. They are pressure fitted. 

Even though it's late, tried to secure them to the pillars. I'll try to see if they are better on the sails. Unfortunately, I haven't ran any of wiring or have my amps so there's no way to real-time testing. So I might just let them be as is. Tune them and leave the upgrades for round 2.

































































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## mjfideler (Jun 21, 2020)

Just stumbled upon your build. Loving it so far! Keep up the good work, definitely following your build now! Can't wait to see the finished product!


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Thanks. It's slow moving but I'm trucking along. It's my daily drive so I have to do it in small stages, I have to keep putting things back in.

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## ILX Cheeta (Feb 23, 2020)

Black Rain said:


> Another cold day here in Central Florida, so small update. Managed to drill out and place threaded inserts for M6 screws. Also, screwed and glued both boards together. Now to let them dry.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great build!
Is there a benefit to aiming cone of sub into trunk rather than aiming it into cabin of car?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

ILX Cheeta said:


> Great build!
> Is there a benefit to aiming cone of sub into trunk rather than aiming it into cabin of car?


I don't believe there is any benefit. I personally did it for space. I wanted to be able to use my trunk and didn't want anything bang up against the magnet.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

It's been awhile since I updated the build. Unfortunately, not much has been done. Work and life has distracted the progress, but I am getting back to it.

I was able to finally finish building the apillars. The pillars builtup using wood and body filler. The backk sides were filled in with milkshake. That was my 1st time making milkshake. TBH, I feared using milkshaking bevaue I that it was more complicated that it really is. Definitely recommend others to use it.

They still need to be covered with fabric. Also, need to add deadener and CCF to make them more solid and acoustics.





























































































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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Those turned out great! Hopefully I’ll get there soon.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Matt, you will.... We are both on a slow but progressive install.

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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Did you end up wrapping your pillars yet? Was looking a a post from CMAN and how there was concern about being able to wrap the fabric over properly. You and I went with very similar positions, so just curious. Maybe we will be finding out at the same time. Lol


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

MattAFLiving said:


> Did you end up wrapping your pillars yet? Was looking a a post from CMAN and how there was concern about being able to wrap the fabric over properly. You and I went with very similar positions, so just curious. Maybe we will be finding out at the same time. Lol


Matt, No I haven't been able to wrap them. I have been having a busy schedule at work and family time. Plan to make time soon to progress on the car. I have been considering covering them in 4way stretch fabric, if I am not able to acquire some headliner fabric.


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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

What did you do to seal up the rear deck for you IB setup?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I sound deadened the underside of the deck from the trunk side. I put about 6 sheets on that side.

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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Black Rain said:


> I sound deadened the underside of the deck from the trunk side. I put about 6 sheets on that side.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


I was debating on going for top or bottom. Also debating to temp remove the factory insulation to put CLd, CCF, and MLV all over the trunk.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I know it's been awhile since I updated but life and work takes over.

Well started to dress up my a-pillars (1st time). I took some tips from watching PSSOUND video and a little helpful advise from my wife. 

Laying fabric on them took a lot longer than expected but it's no easy feat. You definitely want to have a Hair dryer or Heat Gun available. It really helps when you are trying to stretch your fabric around the speaker ring and the tight corners around the bevel. Overall, they came out pretty good. 

I placed in the car to see how they looked. 













































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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I still need to pull them back out and add some deadener for strength and some CCF for acoustics.









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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well looks I got a little overzealous on work and it bit me....lol. Time to fix it already. I think I need to find a better spray adhesive the can withstand this Florida heat. 

I was using Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty and you can see where this Florida Heat lifted the glue and buckled the fabric. 

















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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Black Rain said:


> Well looks I got a little overzealous on work and it bit me....lol. Time to fix it already. I think I need to find a better spray adhesive the can withstand this Florida heat.
> 
> I was using Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty and you can see where this Florida Heat lifted the glue and buckled the fabric.
> 
> ...


Guess it’s how we have to learn things some times. Bummer that it happened, they looked good.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Thanks Matt....that's right. Trial and error....

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I originally tried using Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty, but since it failed with this Florida heat I have to try something different. After some extra search I found this one and it for automotive headliner, plus I can get it at Autozone.



https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/adhesive/p/permatex-headliner-fabric-carpet-adhesive-spray-16oz/130215_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:10574827360&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl92XBhC7ARIsAHLl9an8aGtJolckeaOGD-FCsUsmo-S2FYEWKkeKsZtZlI_AIVNlPduykHEaAldvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds



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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I've always heard people recommend landau top and trim adhesive. Mark Lowe just talked about it on "The Old Fashioned Car Audio Podcast" It's something you'll have to order though.
Amazon sells it in a spray can





DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Solvent Type Spray Contact Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Solvent Type Spray Contact Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Ooh I did see that one at Lowes yesterday.....Kendall. Thanks 

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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Small quick update....

Manage to finally cover my apillars. I figured out that the spray glue I was using worked just fine, I just had to let it cure (tacky) right. I learned that you can't rush that. 

Anyways, they came out great. I also applied some deadener and CCF to them for extra rigidity and acoustics. They definitely are heavier.























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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

It's been a couple of months since I updated, but LIFE has had me busy. 

Anyways, I was able to remove the IB shelf and cover it. It doesn't seem like much, but you can surely run into some technical problems during the removal and reinstall. 

Lesson learned......
If you decide to wrap your sub magnet with tape (for protection), ensure to use painter tape. Any other will leave glue residue on the chrome and the magnet. If this does happen to, though, just use some WD40 and some rubbing alcohol. And of course, patience.


















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