# Chris' Mazdaspeed6 Stereo install log



## chuyler1

Well folks, its that time again. I've had the speed 6 for a few months and now its time to upgrade the stereo.

*Equipment:*
Head Unit: Stock Bose (has 2v pre-outs)
Processor: PPI DCX-730 (PEQ/3-way Xover/Time Alignment)
Amps: DLS A5 (85x2 + 300x1) and A8 (40x4)
Highs: LPG 25nfa 1" soft dome tweeters
Mids: Seas CA18RNX 6.5" paper cone woofers
Lows: DLS OA12 Infinite Baffle
RearFill: TBA or not at all

*Step 1: Amp rack*

The MS6 is advertised to not have folding rear seats. This is not true, the seats fold but there are support braces across the opening which prevent you from passing anything more than a pair of skis or a few 2x4s through it. However, there is an area that is just perfect for installing amps and you'll see over the next few weeks how I plan to use that space. Check out the stock trunk and what's behind the panel to get an idea of what I am working with.

I started by cutting a piece of MDF to replace the factory trunk panel. It is about 18" tall by 43" wide. I fitted this up to the opening and traced the area I had to work with. It comes out a 6-sided trapazoid-like opening. I squared it off and decided to add curved edges to my opening for the amps. They will have a recessed look with the help of fiberglass (similar to my last install).

Here I am determining a center point so I can use my router with a perfect circle jig to cut a channel in the wood.










Next I used a 1/2" straight channel bit on the router and with a combination of straight-edge and circle-jig cuts made a channel around the perimiter of where I needed to cut.










Here I am double checking the fit of my two amps side-by-side. They will fit nicely and there is plenty of room on the bottom for wiring (RCA ends stick out quite a bit...learned that the hard way last time).










With the channel complete, I used a jig saw to cut all the way through the wood. Then I used a round-over bit to smooth out the edges and provide a lip for stapling the fleece.










Next I created some 3.5" tall shims to raise the outer trim. Everything was screwed to a scrap board temporarily. These shims and bottom piece will not be part of the final rack.










Up next, I need to stretch and staple fleece to make up the side of this rack. Then comes fiberglass and bondo. After the first layer I will be able to remove the shims and bottom piece and fiberglass the back side for thickness.

Weather doesn't look promising for this weekend so it may be a few weeks before I get to fiberglass. (Don't have a garage so I have to work outdoors when it comes to fiberglass)


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## Hellacool

Since I just finished my Speed 6 install I see where you are going with this. I cant wait to see your progress.


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## chuyler1

I started before I saw your install...but yours was inspiration for me to get off my ass and make some progress. What you see here is about 4 hours of work. 1 hour for measuring and cutting the initial board, another hour to draw out all the cuts and start on a few, then 2 hours tonight finishing the cuts, routing the edges, and assembling the shims. It got late so I stopped before I drove my wife crazy with the staple gun.


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## bassfromspace

CRACK.

How is the MazdaSpeed Six in terms of adding an aftermarket HU? Any problems?

Thanks


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## chuyler1

Can't do it yet. Climate control is integrated into heads-up display and goes through stereo. Without the right kit the climate control won't work. Because the speed6 was manufactured in Japan (vs the regular 6 which is manufactured in North America) the current kit out for the Mazda6 won't work. But the Bose unit puts out a 2v flat signal. There is no sense in upgrading unless I was looking for a 24-bit DAC or something. It will be the weakest link in my system but I am ok for that. I'll let you know how it turns out though.


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## shinjohn

Nice!
Always love to see your work and install threads! Anxious to see the end result! Keep up the good work.


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## Pseudonym

would any of those units like the rockford 360 or anything like it make things better as far as voltage outs and SQ are concerned or are u stuck with a weak signal and marginal SQ?


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## chuyler1

2v output isn't a weak signal. Many aftermarket headunits only put out 2v. It's not a 24-bit DAC with 8v output but the stock unit in my car will hold up just fine. I have the PPI DCX-730 to handle processing (which is essentially the same as the RF 360) but it is not required since the output from the headunit is already flat. I plan to use it primarily for crossover and time alignment. Then I'll use the PEQ to tweak a few areas.


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## durwood

Nice! Looks better than my work, makes me feel like a hack. I'm jsut lazy when it comes to perfection. I eyeball everything, but it looks like you are taking the time to make it look extremely nice. You got lucky with those DLS amps. Looks like they fit perfectly without an inch to spare.


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## durwood

I found a good picture of my door handle. As i said in my PM's, when you go to do the deadening, be careful with this piece.


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## fredridge

looks awesome. Honestly, makes me think of having someone else do mine. I have no woodworking tools and not sure I would be that good with them if I did


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## chuyler1

I love working with wood. If I could find a way to make a living doing it I would. It is very satisfying when things come out right. But with that said, I have no formal experience. I had one "shop" class in 8th grade where I made a napkin holder. I picked up a few tips from a friend of a friend but the rest I have just learned on the internet.


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## Hellacool

durwood said:


> I found a good picture of my door handle. As i said in my PM's, when you go to do the deadening, be careful with this piece.


What is that? I dont remember that on my doors??


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## Robert

Great work can't wait to see the finished product.


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## chuyler1

Durwood and I were discussing removing the door skin in a PM and he sent me the photo of a piece he broke off by accident. I plan to remove the door skin so I can sound deaden the door.

My Raammat package came in today. I didn't even bother opening it though because it will be some time before I get to the deadening stage.

In other news, I have chosen a sub. I'm going to attempt to install a DLS OA12 under the rear deck. I measured 13" of space at the center so it will be tight but should work.


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## chuyler1

Step 1 Continued: Applying Fleece.

Its still drizzling outside but I tried out my new electric powered staple gun. Woah man it is so much better than my manual swingline...which contrary to Milton's experience jammed way too often.

First I layed fleece down on the bottom of my rack. I didn't get a shot but below the fleece is masking tape. As I mentioned before the bottom piece is only temporary until the glassing is done and I don't want to bind the fleece to the bottom piece.










Next I secured the amp mounting piece which was cut-out in previous steps. One note on this, I drilled the holes for securing this before detatching the center piece from the outer piece. This ensured that when I fastened it to the bottom piece it would be centered perfectly. Always plan ahead folks.










Next I stretched the fleece as tight as it would go and used my brandi new staple gun to secure it in place. The routed edge was perfect for lining up the staples. Make sure you keep the staples as close together as possible to prevent the fabric from slipping later on.










Once the stapling was done, I used a sharp razor blade to cut off the excess fabric. Hold it at an angle and use the routed edge underneath as a guide.










Here is how it looks with the excess fabric removed.










And a few test fits with the amps.


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## khail19

Coming together nicely!


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## Mike Troll

Looks good. This is even more inspiration for me to get off my ass and do some audio work to my 6s. 

Are the amps going into the spare tire well?


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## chuyler1

No, the panel I am making will replace the stock panel shown at the back of the trunk in this photo


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## FoxPro5

You have skillz my man....

So this is yours and the wifey gets the Pro5? You kept your DLS babies though you selfish bastard!! Or no??


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## chuyler1

The wife wanted the spare tire and the hatch space back. I built her this as a compromise:










She also gets the DLS Iridium components for the time being.


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## chuyler1

*Step 1 continued: Applying Fiberglass Resin*

I had about an hour this evening after work so I applied two layers of fiberglass resin to the fleece. I masked off the screws (don't want resin to clog the tops) and masked off the edges to keep the excess resin to a minimum. I should have masked the entire center piece too because I dripped all over it. Oh well...that's what a sander is for. The first layer of resin I gobbed on and made sure it soaked in thoroughly. It took about 16 fl oz. When that cured and cooled down I brushed on another 4 fl oz to smooth out the surface and fill any crevaces. This is primarily so I have more of a base to sand later on before I reach the fleece. I let it cure while my wife and I watched a movie and then was able to remove my rack from the shims and base. Voila, a very light weight amp rack. Ok, Ok, no where near finished. I have to build up the back side for strength and sand/bondo/sand/prime/paint the front. Stay tuned for more updates.

After first layer of resin...










After second layer of resin, a smooth surface for sanding...










And after I pulled it from the shims and base...
(sorry it was dark out)


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## GlasSman

Lookin' good. Is there a pass through on the Mazda 6? Are you thinking spare tire well enclosure?


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## khail19

GlasSman said:


> Lookin' good. Is there a pass through on the Mazda 6? Are you thinking spare tire well enclosure?





chuyler1 said:


> No, the panel I am making will replace the stock panel shown at the back of the trunk in this photo


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## chuyler1

Thanks khail!

For those not paying attention, this is what the pass-through on the MS6 looks like. There are two sets of cross bars. The ones in the corners get in the way and that was the reason for the shape of my amp rack.










Here is a test fit...










And what it looks like from behind...



















To strenthen the walls, I soaked the back of the fleece with 8 fl oz of resin and then built it up with an additional 12 fl oz and fiberglass matte cut into squares.




























And that's all for tonight. Next up, lots of sanding and bondo. But it may be a few days before the next update. Tomorrow night I'm installing springs with a friend and this weekend I'm heading to Limerock park with all the local Mazda Enthusiasts.


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## chuyler1

Side track yesterday evening. I installed some lowering springs.


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## azngotskills

looks nice and clean....im loving the color of your car


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## durwood

That is coming along very nice. I don't have the time or patience to make mine look that sweet. Love those wheels, that's exactly the sytle I wanted to put on mine. Another thing I will probably never be able to do to mine.


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## Lanson

Yes, deep dish wheels look great on the Speed cars. I'm planning a similar exterior style myself.

Interior wise...WOW, what a great idea for an amp tub! I'm itching (quite literally, from the fiberglass) to start all over on my design, and make a fluid, amp/sub setup.


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## BaSiCEvil

Nice progress.

Can't wait to see what the completed project looks like.


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## chuyler1

fourthmeal said:


> Interior wise...WOW, what a great idea for an amp tub!


Well, I can't really take credit for the idea. I thought my amps would fit on the stock panel but they came up about a 1/2" short. So I figured I might as well fab a new panel and paint it while I'm at it.

I'm at the worst part of the install though. I could just wrap the whole thing in carpet and be done...or I can move on to the sanding/bondo stage. I think I'll move on.


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## durwood

I'm a carpet guy, used vinyl once, and only painted a few things. My theory is either you want it to match, or stick out, or make it practical. Personally I like things carpeted in the trunk, but I throw all sorts of crap in there and paint would get scratched all to hell in my car. I think whatever you decide it's going to look nice.


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## ocuriel

You're a pro dude


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## dogstar

Looks great so far, and I have to say, I havent really liked the looks of the speed6s until your car... something about the color, lowering and wheels just really makes it.


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## chuyler1

and photos don't really do the car justice. Most of the time it looks flat red, but if you catch the right angle you will see the brilliance...

(sorry about the uber closeup, any sort of jpeg compression and the glitter goes away)


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## Lanson

Personally, I like synthetic suede. That is my favorite material at this time.


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## Whiterabbit

have to go for what matches. How many trunks have we seen with grey carpet interiors and a false floor upholstered in black vinyl?

oops?

paint would look terrible too.

Of course, if you covered your paint panels in a false floor that's been carpeted, then you have an OEM look that opens up to reveal sexy paint panels. Way cool 

and a second side note, if your trunk is already upholstered in vinyl, or synthetic suede......


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## chuyler1

The original plan, which I'm prolly going to stick to, is carpet the outer MDF portion of the rack and paint the inside Red. The amps will be raised slightly so the wires can tuck under to a hidden access hole. I may put LEDs under to back-light them but prolly not...instead I'll get a set of neon tubes and mount them on either side of the subwoofer which will be mounted at the center of the rear deck.

Yeah, I know it is showy..but that is the point. Why go through all the trouble otherwise? If I wanted to, I could easily fab up a cover panel for the center portion of the rack. But then I would never see my handiwork.


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## chuyler1

Finally had some time to work on my car again this weekend. I have put the amp rack on hold since I don't have carpet and I know I'll have to order more than just carpet from PE before I finish.

*Step 2, Sound deadening*

I added 1 layer of raammat and 1 layer of ensolite to the outer door skins. The 6 has a removable center section of the door which allows for easy access. I also added a little deadener to the back and front of the access panel and the back of the door panel. I will add more around the speaker cutout once I install my speakers. While I did this, I also ran the speaker wire. Note to self: never buy large guage speaker wire again. The wire doesn't fit through the door harness and I can't get them back in the hole. DOH! I'll figure something out later.

Stock door innards (no deadening)









Adding a layer of raammat (aka dynamat). I didn't go overboard because I didn't want to add too much weight. I covered about 75% of the area and that will take care of 95% of the resonation in the doors.









On top of that went a full sheet of ensolite closed cell foam. This stuff really works. It takes out all metalic sounds when you tap on the panel from the outside.









Added some more raamat to the back of the door panel. I will add more later along with some ensolite. The 6 already has padding (not shown) so I didn't go overboard.









I am showing this photo because I'm an idiot. I removed the plastic panel "before" removing the window. Big Mistake. I suggest to others the following sequence:
1) Remove outer door panel
2) Before disconnecting wiring harness pull the two plugs out (see below) and lower the window until you see the bolts for the window.
3) Now disconnect the wiring harnesses and put the door panel someplace safe
4) Remove the window by removing the two bolts (10mm). When they are out pull the glass up and toward you. Be careful not to let it scratch bare metal.
5) NOW you may remove the plastic panel by removing all the 10mm bolts around the edge and unhooking the wiring harnesses etc. Oh, another note. Removing the door handle is tricky. There is a plastic center pin with a knob on the top. Inside the center is a clip. Using a very small screw driver pull the clip out toward you and lift up on the knob. Your first inclination will be to push the clip in...but I assure you, it must be pulled out. 

(me re-installing window glass)










Here's a shot of the passenger door









All told I spent about 6 hours doing this. That includes running a power wire, figuring out how the whole door goes together and what to remove and in what sequence. It also includes the bloody task of trying to get speaker wire through the door jam (my least favorite part of car audio installation). On the driver's side you have to remove the fuse box and ECU. I couldn't get the ECU all the way out but got it loose enough to reach behind pull out the foam and grab my wire.

Anyway, that's all for this weekend.

Oh, and I was using the raammat EG stuff. It wasn't that bad to work with. I tried using rubber gloves at first but that lasted about 30 seconds. My sweaty bare hands didn't stick as easily as the rubber. Temperature was between 75-80 outside but the mat was left indoors (~70 degrees) until I needed it. I was working in the shade. I got lots-o-gue under my finger nails but it washed right off. The trick is to pull from a corner and work at it until it separates before attempting to pull more paper off.


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## durwood

Nice work. After seeing your pictures, and the order in which you removed the door panel pieces, I see it would have been easier than the way I did it. I didn;t even knwo that the window bolts were accessible through the panel. :blush: I missed the clip that was on the door handle plastic pin too. Where you able to remove it without breaking them then?

I should have mentioned that go with smaller speaker wire otherwise you will never get it through those plugs. I'll agree with you, I was swearing the whole time when running wires through the boots.

Also, on your interior door skin I'll save you some troubleshooting time-

There are two very thin plastic rings on the backside of the interior door skin that make the grill stronger and it is also used to seal the factory speaker pod to the panel. Remove those thin supporting rings with a dremel or similar tool. If you don't, I guarantee your speaker cones will probably hit them making it sound like they are blown. You probably won;t have room for any type of baffle, but if you can find a way to mount a rear baffle to the plastic panel (on inside of the door), then that might be the way to go.


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## chuyler1

I broke the driver's side clip but figured it out on the passenger side. I should find out the part # and order a new one...or maybe I'll swap it out with the rear door.

I saw the rings. The Protege5 had them and I trimmed them off with a utility knife. I plan to cut out the entire grill so they won't be a issue.


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## durwood

I broke BOTH of mine :blush: I drilled a hole on each side of the locking lever in the panel and was able to slip a zip-tie through around/behind the door lock switch. It works great and you can't even tell a difference. If it doesn't hold up then I'll be buying two of them.  :blush:

If you need pictures to better show what I mean on how I "fixed it", I can do that later for you.


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## chuyler1

Nope, zip-tie idea sounds great. When I install my speakers I'll do the same.


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## FoxPro5

chuyler1 said:


>


OMG look at that door! So jealous. 

Nicely done my man, as usual.


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## chuyler1

Coming from the P5, I completely understand your reaction  Once I figured out the whole window glass thing I was truely in heaven. I think I'm going to do the rear doors this evening. Then I'll have to get started on the rear deck and trunk.


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## chuyler1

I finished the rear doors over the last few days. Here's a little write up I posted in the tutorial section.

Door Panel Removal and Sound Deadening for Mazda6


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## chuyler1

*Tweeter Pods!*

The stock angle just wasn't going to cut it for my install and the LPG 25nfa tweeters were a tight fit anyway. So I went the custom route (duh!). These took about 4 hours to make start to finish.

First step is to make a baffle for the tweeter. I didn't have the right size hole saw so I had to resort to my router and circle jig. Also note the size comparison between the stock Bose tweeter and my LPG.










I drilled a few pilot holes in the factory sail panel...










Then cut out the rest with a jig saw.










Using a hot glue gun and a laser pointer, I aimed the tweeters for ear level and just in front of your head on the opposite window.










Next I stretched grill cloth over them as tightly as I could using hot glue to hold it in place.










And soaked the cloth in resin, making sure to go right up to the edges but not over them.










Once the resin cured, I used a 40 grit disk on my orbital sander to smooth out any imperfections and shave off the back. Since these are very thin with a single coat of resin I couldn't do very much sanding.



















Fortunately, I did have the right size hole saw for the cutout. The fiberglassed cloth was secured enough to the baffle to allow me to cut it out.



















A quck test fit...things are coming together nicely!










And all that was left was to cover them in grill carpet again. I used a light coat of spray glue on the surface and then hot glue on the back side to stretch the clotch perfectly without wrinkles.










Finally, I added some raammat sound deadener to the inside to add a little weight to the very thin fiberglass. These pods are not very durable, I could prolly shove a screwdriver right thorugh them...but they are only pods and don't need to hold any weight. If you were building anything larger or intended to sand them to a silky smooth paintable finish I would recommend more than just a single layer of resin/matte. You can also beef them up from behind if you are careful with fiberglass reinforced body filler.

Anyway, enough with the talk, here are some installed pics!





























Don't ask me how they sound. I'm not even close to hooking them up.


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## Mazda3SQ

Those pods look bad ass but do you feel your soundstage lacks any depth with the tweeters in the sails as opposed to how they might sound further up on the dash?


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## chuyler1

I am concerned about the instrument cluster as it blocks some of the tweeter for the passenger...but I don't have much of a choice with the side curtain airbags. I was pretty impressed with the Bose sound stage (for a stock system) and I've used sail panels before. I'd much rather have them there than down low in kicks or on the doors where my knees block them.


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## chuyler1

Finished up the Subwoofer install today. 

Here's the stock Bose sub. They call it a 9". Its a little bigger than my 8" but it looks like they use some aperiodic membrane on the front. Cutout is 8.25" for anyone interested.









I made a baffle that started as 13"x13" and trimmed it down until it would fit.




























Then I created another baffle to mount below that for my 12" DLS subwoofer.



















The bottom and top of the rear deck was covered in raammat and a layer of ensolite was added to the top also.




























Then the sub and baffle was hoisted up from below using my scissor jack and it was bolted in place with the factory holes and 1-1/4" drywall screws.





































You can see the amp rack panel I previously constructed ready for amps.










Man it looks good...if only I had my amps installed so I could try it out. That'll have to wait I guess. 

Up next, I have to install the midbass drivers, amps, and wire everything.


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## SOHCKing03

My God... that is beautiful.

I am doing my install today for my Pioneer 720PRS and I have been looking through many installs so I learn as much as possible. And this is by-far one of the most professional looking installs I have seen.

Great work!

-Brad


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## Mazda3SQ

Very nice work, let us know how you liked the OA12. I found mine to have a fair amount of detail and pretty darn good output for a 12" ib. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## chuyler1

Thanks for the compliment. I find myself re-doing something if I don't do it right the first time. So I try my best to think through all the possible options, choose the right one, and then execute it as best I can so I don't look back and say "you know, I could do XXX better". 

I considered prepping the tweeter pods for paint but cloth is so much easier and it gives it a stealth look that no one will recognize. For the sub, I though about a simple sealed enclosure but remembered how much I cursed about not having enough space left over in my previous install. Now that the 12" is installed, I'm thinking I could have gone with a 10" or 8" because of how low it hangs...but I'm sure my thoughts on that will change once I power it up. Furthermore, I'm glad I didn't attempt this with a heavier subwoofer, the rear deck would need more reinforcement if I did. I can feel the sheet metal bend a little with the weight of the OA12. Not much, but I can pull on it a little. Perhaps I should sink a few more screws in the edges.


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## durwood

How much did you angle your tweeters or how did you aim them? I just finished my 2nd set of new tweeter pods for the speed6 and I went full on-axis. I found that I had to keep the drivers side from being aimed anywere near the instrument cluster hump. It seemed to reflect the sound off kind of funny ruining my soundstage at times. 

Good call on the grill cloth, I body filled and sanded like a mofo because I went with a combo of rustolium texture paint and SEM black vinyl die. It took longer than I wanted to get it right.


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## chuyler1

I used my cat's laser pointer to aim them. They point about 2" in front of the B-pillar and 1" down from my ears. With the steering wheel out all the way (I'm 6'3") there was a clear path for the laser from the driver's side pod to the passenger side window. I will still probably get some reflection off the gauge pod but there isn't much else I can do.


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## shinjohn

Chris,
Awesome work on the pods and sub. The tweeter pods turned out awesome! Keep it up!


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## bigjae1976

Great job! I love the amp rack. Can't wait to see the final product.

My only beef is that DLS sub could look a little sexier.


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## chuyler1

Yeah, a DIYMA would look sweet hanging from the rear deck...I was very tempted to try it out. But the OA12 only weights 13lbs compared to the DIYMA at 37lbs! Perhaps I'll give one of the new JL Slim subs a try when they become available.


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## tyroneshoes

I have a mazda 6 too and I am considering the IB setup. Are you having bad rattling at loud volumes?


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## chuyler1

Nothing is connected yet...note the lack of amps on the amp rack.


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## tyroneshoes

chuyler1 said:


> Nothing is connected yet...note the lack of amps on the amp rack.


Im blind


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## chuyler1

S'ok, I'm itchin to answer that Q myself.


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## chuyler1

Another weekend update. The amp rack is finished and installed. I did a nice tuck job with the wires by suspending the amps about 3/8" inch using some plastic spacers I had. They came with the peg board hooks I bought for my work bench. I'm not exactly sure what they were supposed to be used for but they worked perfectly for my amp rack.










KnuKonceptz interconnects...










8ga power wire and 16ga speaker wire...










And on the back side I mounted my 1 farad capacitor/distblock and PPI DCX-730 processor. I tried to keep the wiring as clean as possible but I wasn't about to spend extra cash on tech flex or anything. I have some wire loom which I'll put on later.










The location of the cap and processor had to be precise...as you can see there isn't much room to work with. 

To the left of the pair is my remote turn on and power grid. I've got two relays, one for remote turn on and the other for trunk lighting (to be added later which will be triggerd by the trunk latch).

To the right is my speaker wire grid. I connect all my wires running through the car to the grid so I can quickly remove the amp rack for maintenance.










And here's how she looks installed...



















This is a major turning point for my system. I actually got to connect stuff and listen to it! I connected the LPG tweeters and DLS subwoofer. Since I'm not finished installing the midbasses I connected the stock Bose 2ohm 6" speakers for some midrange.

After some fiddling I chose an 80Hz 24db crossover point and a 3KHz 12db crossover point. The Bose speakers break up pretty easily so I've been fiddling with 2.5KHz too.

My first test drive sounded like the subwoofer was bottoming out but then I did some research and found out you have to turn the DCX gain to at least -12db. I currently have the input sensitivity at 2.1v, attenuation at -12db, and volume at -12db for subwoofer, -15-18db for tweeters (they are 8ohm), and -24db for the bose mids. All my gains were set to 4v on the amp (or about half-way).

Detail from the factory head is perfect. Once I dial in the crossover point and eq a few parts of the tweet I will be happy. The tweeter angle is a little left-biased in my face but I think part of the problem is the mids aren't keeping up at high volumes. I haven't messed with T/A yet either.

Sub hasn't bottomed out since I adjusted the gain. It blends seamlessly with the front except for a rattle I need to fix on the rear deck cover. It doesn't get as loud as I was expecting but I still need to fuss with the gains. It also isn't as tight on kick drum hits. The impact isn't what I had with my 8"s so I'll be expecting my Seas CA18WNX mids to pick up the slack in that department.

Overall, I can see the potential of this system and still having a full trunk will really be a blessing. Next weekend I'm going to Philly so we'll see if I can fit all our luggage in the trunk w/o using the back seat!


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## Astral

Very nice! Can't wait to see it/hear it in person.


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## coffee_junkee

Very clean, me likie.

Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the IB setup. Thinking of going that route if the new car comes soon.

-Kris


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## chuyler1

Tuning update...

I'm trying not to go crazy with any tuning since I don't have the CA18RNX mids in yet but I can't help turning up the system and making tweeks here and there.

I set the T/A and that pulled the sound away from the left tweeter considerably. The image isn't defined the way I would like but I'll work on it. I just took quick measurements and set it before leaving for work this morning.

I keep increasing the crossover point for the LPG tweeters. I started at 2.5KHz/12db and I am now up to 4KHz/24db. Each time i increase the point the mids get a little more harsh but I am able to turn down the gain on the tweeters and the shushiness goes away....or whatever you want to call the sound of a tweeter playing below its intended range. I like warm vocals so the higher I can cross the tweeters the better. Believe it or not, the Bose stock mids can play the midrange pretty well. They just fall short in the kickbass region.


----------



## shinjohn

chuyler1 said:


> I keep increasing the crossover point for the LPG tweeters. I started at 2.5KHz/12db and I am now up to 4KHz/24db. Each time i increase the point the mids get a little more harsh but I am able to turn down the gain on the tweeters and the shushiness goes away....or whatever you want to call the sound of a tweeter playing below its intended range. I like warm vocals so the higher I can cross the tweeters the better. Believe it or not, the Bose stock mids can play the midrange pretty well. They just fall short in the kickbass region.


My experience with the LPG is the same. They need a higher crossover to work well and sound clean.

Nice work on the install; I'm really digging the results. Very clean and practical, perfect for a family sedan! Keep up the good work!


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## 8675309

Good work. I wish I still had the motivation like I used too! Now all I want to do is stick it in and make it work and sound great.


----------



## chuyler1

That's the same motivation I have...except I know if I don't do it right the first time, I'll end up doing it again...so I take my time.

The CA18RNX looks to have a useable range up to 4KHz, maybe 4.5KHz. There is a peak at 4.75KHz before it rolls off. If I can get the LPGs to sound good at 4KHz then I'll be happy. Once I get the CA18RNX in I'll experiment with 3.5/4/4.5/5 and decide which is best. Man I love having all my tuning needs at my finger tips. I have yet to touch the gains on my amps. I set them all at equal value before I installed them and haven't gone back there since!


----------



## chuyler1

*Midbass driver install*

So I wanted an OEM look but without the crappy stock grills. Here's how I accomplished it...

First, the trim rings. I used a combination of router bits to create rings out of 3/4" MDF and painted them with two coats of rattle can primer, a coat of silver metal specs, and a final clear coat.




























Next I removed the stock grills using a sharp utility blade. I removed the trim on the inside first to prevent the blade from going in its own direction.

















I made a few passes with the blade from the outside using the inner edge as a guide.


















Next, I made some mounting rings for the CA18RNX midbass drivers. Two coats of primer to protect them from the elements.


















While I waited for the paint to dry, I mounted the rings to the door panels. I used hot glue and then applied a layer of raammat EG and ensolite to make sure they were on good and tight.


























I installed the mounting rings next, and applied a layer of raammat around the outer edge and used the foam gasket from the stock speaker. This gasket will mesh up with the ensolite on the door panel to create a tight seal with the door panel.










Here's how they look installed. There is a small gap around part of it because the door panel wasn't perfectly parallel with the door skin.



















And for a finishing touch, I made some grills out of 1/2" scrap birch ply (I was out of 1/2" MDF). I did a so-so job wrapping them with grill cloth. I couldn't get it to stick on the back side so I used hot glue. No one will see it...except you.










Ok, drum roll.....brrrrrrrrrrrrr



splash!



























Listening impressions. After a quick 10 minute tune, I realized, these speakers can really play low. They have no problem with a 50Hz 12db crossover. They sound pretty good up to 4-5KHz but I'm hesitant to go further as the highs get a little mellow and unnatural. They do a much better job than the Bose speakers in the 1-5KHz region and play the sub 120Hz range with much more authority. However, I still can't dial in the LPG tweeters. I've been bouncing between 3.5-5KHz for a crossover but they still sound "sharp" as my wife puts it. There is a frequency right above the crossover point that digs into your ear just above low listening levels but mellows out at high listening levels (but with a little breakup toward the bottom end that can be heard as a constant shhhhhing sound). I haven't done any RTA work or touched the PEQ/TA so I'm sure I can track down the problem and clean up the response. Overall I am very satisfied with the install. My wife says there is much more upfront bass and I have to agree. These speakers put out more bass than the DLS Iridium 6"s in the Protege5...but I've got significantly more sound deadening in the MS6 and that probably helps out. With a 50Hz crossover point on the sub, I almost don't need it. I thought I would never say that but honestly, the sub is just filler now (except for techno/rap where it obviously plays a bigger role...but I rarely listen to that).

One other notable point. The Bose speakers were 2ohms while the Seas mids are 8ohms. I still haven't touched the gains on my amps since I installed them. To do this change-over I adjusted the volume for the mids on the DCX-730 from -18db to -12db and later lowered the tweeter volume from -20db to -22db. The sub stayed about the same.


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## azngotskills

i cant say how much i enjoy your work...very clean and simple enough that anyone can do it and make it look profession if they have the patience and skill


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## chuyler1

One more comment. This combo completely blows away the install in my Dad's truck which consisted of Dayton woofers and Seas large-format tweeters. I'm guessing the combination of better sound deadening and more power (or better quality power) had something to do with it. The Daytons are 4ohms getting NeXT [email protected] while my CA18RNXs are 8ohms getting DLS [email protected] (40w?). And my HU puts out a real low-level pre-out while I had to use a LOC in the truck.










The Avalanche install:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8117&highlight=chevy+avalanche


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## chuyler1

azngotskills said:


> i cant say how much i enjoy your work...very clean and simple enough that anyone can do it and make it look profession if they have the patience and skill


Thanks 

I have tried flashy installs and they never get completed. I have tried my best to stick to the KISS method with this install. I have the skills to fab up fiberglass pods...but the time it takes to do them and have it look good just isn't worth it. I hope my work inspires people to go back to the basics and just install equipment cleanly...but with a little touch of style.


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## Mless5

Astral said:


> Very nice! Can't wait to see it/hear it in person.



Small get together perhaps? I am 20 minutes north of bawston.

chuyler1- very clean looking and professional; loving it mate!


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## chuyler1

I'm meeting up with a bunch of Mazda guys Tuesday evening at Joes at the South Shore Plaza in Braintree. I think Astral might be coming also. You are welcome to join us.


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## Astral

Chris, very nice! (As always?) I don't have the balls or the skills to cut into the stock door panels myself.

Now I also curious to hear it to see whether I can hear the problem that you're hearing with the tweeters.


Mless5 said:


> Small get together perhaps? I am 20 minutes north of bawston.


we should definitely have a small get together!


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## ocuriel

Wow!, I'm very impressed. Both installs look sweet!


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## chuyler1

Oleg, it very well be the same thing you are hearing...I had a thought last night. Perhaps I need to better secure the tweeters and add more deadening to the sail panels. The resonation could be coming from them.


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## Mike Troll

Whole install looks awesome!!!

It givs me motivation to do mine more and more everytime I look at this thread. I am going to be doing an 18" IB in the pass through. Mine isnt a speed6 so I dont have the supports across the trunk.


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## tyroneshoes

Great work. Love the custom grille. Prefer the look without the grille unattached. The silver and black cone looks great together.


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## hessdawg

nice install


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## Astral

tyroneshoes said:


> Great work. Love the custom grille. Prefer the look without the grille unattached. The silver and black cone looks great together.


I was just thinking that it does look pretty badass with just the silver ring and black cone. It's nice that there aren't any stupid logos on the cone.


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## chuyler1

I originally thought about just doing the silver ring but I wanted the option of having the grill too for a stealth look. I love the non-logo look too. Now I've just got to do the same to the rear doors and rear deck and there will be no trace of "Bose" left in my car.

On a side note...I was thinking I could make some bookshelf speakers out of the bose equipment...but I'll have to find an amp that can handle 2ohms.


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## chuyler1

Doh! I found part of my problem. The stock head unit treble setting was at +1 and the auto loudness feature was at +2. Putting the treble back to 0 got rid of some of the edge I was experiencing while dropping the loudness feature means I have to retune everything...so I left it on for now.

I think I have narrowed the frequency down to somewhere in the 5-7KHz range. It doesn't matter what I set the crossover point at so it can't be between 3-5KHz. I'll use the PEQ to track it down today.

Sorry no installation update. I spent yesterday afternoon applying raammat BXT and Ensolite to my wife's Protege5. We did the whole rear trunk area. I cut and applied, she smoothed it out (didn't want her to get that goo under her fingernails).


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## durwood

Damn nice job on the door speakers. I'd love to do the same to my doors, but I'm too lazy. Great work! I had the same problem in my car witha couple sets of tweeters. Crossover points around 3.5-5 just don't work so hot at least with the tweeters installed in the sail panels. There is some type of "horn" affect due to the glass and a-pillar right there and then the intrument cluster dash pod creates some reflections too.

I am constantly battling it, even with a 3-way front stage and have yet to find the best way to rid my self of it. I am working with an 8kHz point now and it's much better, but there is still a slight hint of it. I'm going to work a bit more with my RTA and see if I can pinpoint it.

Again fabulous work!


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## DaveRulz

Dude, be careful with the loudness feature! It's speed sensitive. I'd kill that immediately. 

I absolutely love what you did with the grills for the mids. I SOOO want to do something like that in my car, but it would take so much more work, since the 03-05's don't have round speaker grills in the door. I love the look though. absolutely perfect. Your whole system is a perfect example of how stereo's should be installed. Great work!


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## chuyler1

I turned off the loudness on my way to work this morning. At full volume I messed with it and realized it also was a factor in the "sharp" sound from the tweeters. It must boost the treble in addition to the bass. Too bad though, because it did a pretty good job keeping the music dynamic on the stock system.

I know what you mean about not having round grills, there aren't many cars that would benefit from such a simple replacement of the stock grill. The Protege5 has a weird half square, half round opening and it doesn't look like the opening is uniform. It just means it would a little more difficult to accomplish...and would probably involve fiberglass. I've seen it done though. Here is proof from Spring Break Daytona 2006...










...at first the whole door looks custom, but I'm pretty sure it is just two cutouts of the original panel with a piece of plexy slapped on the top. It might be covered in vinyl afterwards but when I looked at it during the show it looked like plastic or a real...real good vinyl wrap.

Wide shot: http://www.huyler.net/phpAlbum/main...006-03--SBN+Car+Show/IMG_2247.jpg&var2=700_85
Factory panel:
http://ssd4u.com/Woodcorp/Dodge/01_DODGE_NEON_STAINLESS.JPG


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## DaveRulz

I don't know that the principle you're illustrating there would work in the 6, although it does look really good in that application. Ill have to take some measurements when I get home. I've considered rebuilding the bottom half of my doors, but I think it'd be too big a project at this point. I'll just have to make due with what I've got at the moment. All things considered, with the tweets and mids down low in the door, it sounds pretty decent in my car.


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## TheAbunai

The midrange install and fab work is top notch man...


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## chuyler1

I wouldn't consider it top-notch. It was very simple and it came out as such.


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## BoondockSaints

Hey for your amp rack, what all did you fiber glass, just the sides (outside and inside) or did you glass the bottom as well?

Then you just layed carpet over that?

Sanded it or something to keep it smooth? Or is that piece of MDF still at the bottom?

Then on your speakers... is it 2 different pieces of wood you have there each one having a single indent, or one piece of wood with indents on each side?


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## chuyler1

In the photo below (see page 3) you can see that only the sides are fiberglass. The center cutout was placed in the center to stretch the fleece and then left there for mounting the amps. It is made from a single piece of 1/2" MDF and doesn't weight much at all (in comparison to the amps mounted to it).










The outer rings are a single piece of 3/4" MDF. A rabbit bit on the router was used to notch both the inside and outside to create the center portion which ends up looking like a separate piece even though it isn't.










The mounting baffles are a single piece of 1/2" and were routed also to allow for clearance (didn't want the speaker to actually touch the outer ring). Since I didn't have a rabbit bid wide enough for the cut, I did the routing with the circle jig before cutting all the way through. Specifically, you set the router depth for about 3/16" and route the outer diameter of the speaker with a 1/2"-3/4" wide bit. Then you set the router for full depth and route the cutout diameter inside of that with a 1/4" bit.


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## BoondockSaints

Alright bro really appreciate it, im essentialy using the same things for one of my amp racks and probablly the exact same for my mids in the doors, minus the color lol. You are my hero, Ill post up some pics after I finish, Ill make too many mistakes along the way to do an install log, I doubt my pics will help, maybe my mistakes will though lol.


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## chuyler1

Take as many pics as you can. Everyone here loves watching progress and will be able to give you tips along the way.


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## Ge0

Chuyler1,

Just read through your install thread from a while back. I love the work you did on the speaker grills. However, I kept thinking to myself something was missing. Then it dawned on me:










There!!!

Ge0


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## chuyler1

Heh heh, I could pull the logo off the stock panels...but wouldn't that deteriorate from the sound quality? But I'm sure un-savvy listeners might think it sounded better being from _bose_ right? LOL. 

I'd like to glue on some logos once I make a final decision on the speakers that will reside behind them. If you have been following my other threads, you'll know that I'm not satisified with the SEAS CA18's and I'm currently borrowing a pair of Adire SF-4's.


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## mitchyz250f

Fantatic work. Very very clean.

What material did you use to cover you tweeter pods and what did you use to attach it to your pod.


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## chuyler1

The pods were created by soaking grill cloth with fiberglass resin...they were smoothed out, and then covered with grill cloth again for the final look. I used a light coat of spray glue on the face and hot glue around the edges to keep it in place.


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## mitchyz250f

That material is exactly what I need for my pods. Where did you buy it?


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## chuyler1

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=48&ObjectGroup_ID=140


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## NeverEnuffBass

Awsome work.


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## connersdad19

i agree very good job....


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## chuyler1

Thanks guys!


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## Pantani

Thread necro I know, but this looks very nice. Are you still using the sub in the IB set up? If so are you having much of a problem without having a super good seal from the trunk to the passenger cabin? I saw quite a bit of detail, yet I didn't see much on the sealing off the trunk that you really need to make an IB setup shine.


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## chuyler1

I never bothered going all out to seal the trunk but I did cover up any openings in the rear deck and made sure the seats made a tight seal. That seems to be enough for the sub to kick out bass for my tastes. I'm not sure if it'll win SQ competitions like that but I suggest anyone going with an IB setup to power things up before they spend endless hours trying to seal their trunk. One advantage I have over others though is a direct path to the cabin via the factory opening. If you are trying to push air through the back seat you'll have a tough time getting desirable bass unless you take more precautions to make sure the only path for air to travel is through the seat and not around the baffle.


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## Pantani

I too have a 6, but my didnt have the premium sound option where the hole has already been cut like you have. I do however have a dremel and bits...


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## meteoro84

amazing work , congratulationss 
the sub works as an infinite bafle ???
i like very much your technical to copy the shape with carpet , very nice


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## casbah

I'm trying to add an auxiliary input to my Bose head unit and keep Sirius. I've been told this can't be done. Anyone have any luck doing this? If so, how?

I find it hard to believe that the "Media" button on the head unit serves no purpose.


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## chuyler1

Who told you it can't be done? You can get a part from your dealer that allows you to have both connected at the same time. It costs about $150.


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## golfguy

You can use AuxMod in the tape player connector for Aux In for $60 and keep your Sirius, too. That uses the Media button. Google Sylfex.


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## casbah

Thanks, golfguy and chuyler1.

The parts guy at the Mazda dealer was one of the people that told me it couldn't be done. The other was the installer.

I did check out AuxMod a while ago. I sent them an email asking them to confirm it would work with Sirius, but I never heard back, so I was hesitant to order it. But with your recommendation I'll give it a try.


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## chuyler1

Be sure to check out www.mazda6club.com and www.mazdas247.com for more information about your car.


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## BKJT05

chuyler1 said:


> Be sure to check out www.mazda6club.com and www.mazdas247.com for more information about your car.


www.mazdas247.com......best mazda forum i ever used when i had my pro5!


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## MantaOwner

Why did you install your tweeters before listening to them? Now you have an angle for them that might not be the best.

Tõnu


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## capnxtreme

While it's bumped, I'd just like to say that this is, so far, my #1 favorite DIYMA install ever.


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## chuyler1

Nice to hear that capn! ...but I've seen a few here that top my install! (excluding the pro installs of course).



> Why did you install your tweeters before listening to them? Now you have an angle for them that might not be the best.


I've installed tweets in sail panels quite a few times so I have a pretty good idea of what angle I want. I used a laser to line these ones up so the direct line would pass about 2" below and 4" in front of the opposite passenger's nose. Sure they might not be perfect, but sail panel installation rarely is. I install them there for listening enjoyment on the road. If I were competing for points in a sound-off I probably would have put them in the kicks. Plus, I've changed out the tweeters 4 times already so getting just the right angle for one tweet may not be the right angle for another...oh well. They look nice and when I sell the car I can swap them out for a fresh pair of OEM panels.


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## aviator79

Nice work. I went a different route to save trunk space as I wanted to keep the pass thru usable. I guess I better post up a work log on this forum as well...


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## Pantani

aviator79 said:


> Nice work. I went a different route to save trunk space as I wanted to keep the pass thru usable. I guess I better post up a work log on this forum as well...


If you have a 6 too, please do! I'm always after some good ideas.


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## chuyler1

Indeed, feel free to link to it in this thread. I'm always interested in seeing what others have done to their 6.


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## JayinMI

chuyler1 said:


>


Duplicolor products FTW! I used their stuff to do my box and amp rack.




























Jay


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## chuyler1

Is the black vinyl or paint? If it's vinyl where did you get it (brand, etc)? It looks fabulous.


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## BKJT05

is that a hubcap?? haha cool idea!


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## JayinMI

chuyler1 said:


> Is the black vinyl or paint? If it's vinyl where did you get it (brand, etc)? It looks fabulous.


The black part is Vinyl. It's called Rave Faux Leather. I got it at Joann Fabrics, it's about $35/yd. If you go look at it, it has a nice texture, but it has a cloth backing. If you peel the backing off, it's super stretchy in every direction. It's kind of thin, tho, so if your glue is lumpy it might show.
If you search the 'net you can probably find it cheaper and in a greater variety of colors. My GF's sister in law is the manager, so I could probably special order some for me if I needed it.

Thanks for the compliments.

Jay


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## JayinMI

BKJT05 said:


> is that a hubcap?? haha cool idea!


It's actually a replica of a Dodge Neon wheel used from 2000-2002. I plan to switch to these wheels in the future, so I built the grill to resemble them. I used the black vinyl to insinuate a tire. 










It's not *exact* but it's pretty close. I made it a little thinner and altered the shape a little so it didn't block the sub as much.

Thanks!

Jay


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## theothermike

ive messed with some lpg's before. ive come to find that when u have in your face sharp detailed small format higher range tweeters the best method for crossing them in low slope higher crossover point. i would suggest 4.5 @ 12db's maybe 5 @ 6db slope.

in all honesty if you feel the 3 - 4khz range lacks then bump it up with some eq.

but from my personal experience i think u are like me. i hate having extra 1khz to 2khz freq extension but also 3khz to 3.5khz is a killer as well for me.

around 6.3 i like a bump and then one at 16khz.

raise crossover freq point on tweeters and lower the slope and i promise you you'll be happy. do the same with the mids. it helps blend with the tweeter. i run all my drivers with 12db slopes. a tip i picked up from my experience with iridium's.

id suggest 3.5khz for mids @ 12db.

LMK


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## theothermike

awesome install my man. another thing is did you seal all the rear deck / ski pass area air tight. if not might look into expanding foam. id check out your c pillars if you havnt normally there are 4 - 8mm holes there for no reason at all. at least its the case with me and james bangs 94 camry.


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## chuyler1

The c-pilars have airbags in them. The canisters extend down into the hatch so I cannot completely seal the trunk....it sounds ok though. I might not burp out 20Hz at 140db but it's enough bass to satisfy my musical tastes.


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## Irishfocus06

This is a very clean simple looking install! I would love to do something for my next install, which will be this tax season, lol! 

Good job and nice craftsmanship throughout. 

Also very nice car! I used to have a protege5 a few years ago and wanted to get into a Mazdaspeed3 or 6, but funds would not let me, so got a Focus ST, which is similar to the 3. 

Enjoy, which I am sure you are.


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## Speed6

Chris,

I have a few questions....

1. How did you attached the amp panel to the car?

Thx

Tom


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## chuyler1

Speed6 said:


> Chris,
> 
> I have a few questions....
> 
> 1. How did you attached the amp panel to the car?
> 
> Thx
> 
> Tom


It is wedged between frame and the subwoofer baffle on the top, and it was heavy enough that it didn't need anything else to stay in place.


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## mfenske

Chris, I am thinking that now, instead, of trying to fab up an enclosure for my IDMAX that rests flush with the rear seats of my 6 (6i) facing inward I might just use a similar approach and liberate a hole in the rear deck and use some heavy duty hardware to suspend the box. Should free up a bunch of room that way. I love your IB setup but too many prying eyes IMO. Mark

P.S. Amazing job with the install.


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## chuyler1

mfenske said:


> Chris, I am thinking that now, instead, of trying to fab up an enclosure for my IDMAX that rests flush with the rear seats of my 6 (6i) facing inward I might just use a similar approach and liberate a hole in the rear deck and use some heavy duty hardware to suspend the box. Should free up a bunch of room that way. I love your IB setup but too many prying eyes IMO. Mark
> 
> P.S. Amazing job with the install.


Too many prying eyes? The rear deck looks completely stock from above (thanks to the bose grill ... something you could probably find at a junk yard btw). When you open the trunk, you really don't notice the subwoofer until you lean down. For example, if someone was helping me load groceries they would never know it was there. Someone on the other side of the parking lot with binoculars might notice though...but even then, it simply looks like it belongs there.


----------



## mfenske

chuyler1 said:


> Too many prying eyes? The rear deck looks completely stock from above (thanks to the bose grill ... something you could probably find at a junk yard btw). When you open the trunk, you really don't notice the subwoofer until you lean down. For example, if someone was helping me load groceries they would never know it was there. Someone on the other side of the parking lot with binoculars might notice though...but even then, it simply looks like it belongs there.


My IDMAX is a little "Blingy'er" and will hang down further. Having had too many break-ins in the past few years I'm not taking any chances. In any case I really appreciate you posting yours for the inspiration. Gives me a lot to think about.


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## meelo

Geez this install is just amazing.....you have done something i can only dream about at the moment. 

Great work and I hope to one day do something like that, sadly i haven't given up weight for sound yet...i did put a preamp inline with the bose sub to give it some life but nothing like this. One day........


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## chuyler1

All told, I think my system weighs less than your average passenger. The amp rack with amps mounted is 50lbs, the sub about 15lbs, and deadener can't be more than 100lbs.

It's really the amps that are the biggest weight problem. If you go with something smaller and lighter (maybe the alpine PDX series) you'd shave even more lbs off it.


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## BKJT05

i love this thread, install, and car. im hoping to own a MS6 within the next year or so if all goes well, and i plan on pretty much duplicating this setup with different equipment. 

Looks awesome!


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## jonnyanalog

@bkjt05
the MS6 is an awesome car and very underrated. I had a chance to AutoX one and it was very cool. And you can get them dirt cheap right now.


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## meelo

do you the an IDMAX 10 would be too heavy to put on the rear deck? I don't want to damage my MS6 but that dang bose sub is starting to piss me off (even with a preamp to boost the signals). I learn now there is a limiter on there to protect it when it heats up.....-_-

I don't think it sits too low....how about using an IDQ 10 would that be good enough for IB?


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## chuyler1

The IDMAX is a bit large and heavy. My sub is 13lbs I think and the IDMAX is easily double that. I would consider reinforcing the rear with some steel bars or something before putting something that heavy underneath. I'd be worried that the flexing might pop the rear glass but I'm not exactly an expert on the subject. I just know I haven't had any problems with my 13lb'er.

The IDQ 10 is not a good choice for running IB. The ID 10 is actually better designed for it....but the ID 12 is an even better choice


----------



## meelo

HAHA...mmmm now you got me thinking, but i'm going to need some nice rings to mount them with ^.^...however i'm not very good with that woodworking side of the world....

I won't go as nuts as you to replace everything just yet, but i for sure am really debating the sub replacement


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## nittanylion64

Love the install. I will be starting on my wifes' Speed6 probably next weekend. I love the amp mounting. I was thinking about putting them in the tire well, but will probably try this route.


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## lucipha

I too am in love with this install. Very nice with the grills on the front doors.


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## meelo

do you think/know of any 8" subs that are almost direct replacements for size that will handle IB well enough? Or is it just too small?


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## chuyler1

The ID8v3 is a decent sub, I used a pair in a ported box one time. It won't fool anyone into thinking there is a pair of 12"s in your trunk but it will certainly play deeper and louder than the factory Bose subwoofer.

FYI, what Bose calls a subwoofer in the MS6 is a wide range driver in the RX-8. Mazda places one in each of the front doors of the RX-8. So in reality, the MS6 sub is just to enhance the midbass.

Anyway, if you want more IB 8" sub suggestions I suggest posting a new thread or searching the forum for more broad advice. In general people will say bigger is better when it comes to IB so if you have the time, pull out the old jig saw and cut yourself some rings...it is worth the extra effort.


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## meelo

Thanks for the advice chuyler, I have been probing the forums about what i should do with my toys and yeah i guess i'll have to see what people will think of what to do for and 8" IB.

I will look at your install and hopefully attempt to mirror what you have going for your mounting scheme. Thanks!


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## aviator79

chuyler1 said:


> Indeed, feel free to link to it in this thread. I'm always interested in seeing what others have done to their 6.


Well finally got something posted up:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-2-alumapro-12-fg-box-audison-other-mods.html


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## jmhinkle

Wow what a great install. I'll be using this and aviator's for design cues on upgrading my Speed6 as well. I already built a sub into the drivers side wall when I got the car, but I've recently upgraded the rear deck sub to the eD 3.8. I'm on the hunt for a 3sixty and a nice old school amp to complete the project. Your passthru amp rack really has me thinking about creating something similiar. Seems so easy using the fleece like that with the resin. Laying up fiberglass just scares the crap out of me for some reason.


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