# Speaker wire connectors - Recommendations



## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

I'm about to re-wire my car for an active set-up.

I've eliminated the rear speakers and will use my Alpine PXA-H701 to drive the 3-way front stage.

I'm looking for recommendations on what connectors to use both at the speaker terminals and for the quick connects I plan to put close to the speakers (to simplify cable runs and removal of speakers).

Currently, I'm mostly using these:









I'm considering these:









But would like to see what others have used. A connector housing both terminals would be an improvement.

I'm using 12-gauge speaker wire for the long runs. The only smaller gauge wire will be the last foot or so to the tweeters.

Any input will be appreciated.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

I made a speaker wire harness - basically did my runs of speaker wire and then terminated each end (front of car - rear of car) with terminal strips. That way if my amp location changes or my driver locations change I just need to make extensions from the terminals and not rip up the interior doing so. As for driver terminations I just used the terminals you have on the bottom pic (w/ red/black covers).


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

solder


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> solder


Yes, I know solder is the best connection, electrically and mechanically.

But it is a bit permanent.....

Besides, I'm really no good with a soldering iron. :blush:

Has anyone tried these? It is basically a sleeve that is crimped on the bare wire leads. They sell them at Parts Express. Might be useful for the amplifier end of the wire.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

X2 solder, it's something you should learn and it's easy with the proper tools.


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## Glowbug (Oct 23, 2006)

If you plan on changing things out frequently, I'd recommend something like a 30A Powerpole connector...either crimp-on or solder on. Very handy for connections that can be removed fast, yet hold together well in use:

http://rffun.com/catalog/parts/2228.html

I use those red/black style of quick disconnects you listed on the terminations going to the speaker, I've used the plastic cap style of crimp sleeve before when wiring up head units, but if it was something for myself I'd want something a little better.


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

chad said:


> X2 solder, it's something you should learn and it's easy with the proper tools.


I'm not worried about the tools. 

It's the motivation, attitude and ability that I'm worried about......:blush:


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

Glowbug said:


> If you plan on changing things out frequently, I'd recommend something like a 30A Powerpole connector...either crimp-on or solder on. Very handy for connections that can be removed fast, yet hold together well in use:
> 
> http://rffun.com/catalog/parts/2228.html
> 
> I use those red/black style of quick disconnects you listed on the terminations going to the speaker, I've used the plastic cap style of crimp sleeve before when wiring up head units, but if it was something for myself I'd want something a little better.


Those look interesting:









They seem to require a proprietary crimping tool ($54):









Has anyone tried the Deans Ultra Plug:


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Solder... 

It's cheap, it's fast, it's really quite easy... I could teach you..


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## dvflyer (May 11, 2007)

Honestly, I doubt I could tell the difference between wires twisted together, soldered, spade connectors or crimped... but you're probably like me and will try to find the "good" way anyway. 

FWIW- I used those spade connectors in my last install.

Those Power Poles and Deans Connectors are great. Never tried them in a car audio application, but I've used them for RC planes and batteries.


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## nddoublea77 (Dec 4, 2008)

newbie post #1


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

nddoublea77 said:


> newbie post #1


 
Very productive..


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Powerpoles rock, I use them in situations such as removable enclosures, like my sub box 

Also on every battery charger, relay connection, etc.


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

I took the plunge and got some of those WBT sleeves from Parts Express. :blush:

They work very well, and despite the cost of $2/each, for certain applications I think they're worth it. I'm using them for the connection to my JL Audio amps that take bare wire.










After use, they look no worse for the wear.


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## CAudio (Aug 29, 2016)

What is the most *LOSSLESS* way to attach a Pigtail connection onto my tweeters and midrange drivers?

I want a ~6 inch length of wire connected to the spade terminals on the speaker basket so if I need to remove and service the speaker, I can do so without soldering.

If this is not practical, and if they need to be unsoldered to be removed, I will not mess with it. 

Would enjoy serious thoughts regarding this.


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## CAudio (Aug 29, 2016)

Timo Rankonen in Finland used Delphi Weather Pack connectors in his Mazda. See here.













I have seen Dean/Anderson connectors used. Wirecare.com has "Deutsch Connectors" but I have no experience with them. 

I have no issue soldering. But if I could have a quick disconnect pigtail that is lossless, I would like and prefer that.

Thoughts???


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## Pariah Zero (Mar 23, 2016)

CAudio said:


> But if I could have a quick disconnect pigtail that is lossless, I would like and prefer that.
> 
> Thoughts???



At the risk of helping ressurect the dead thread...

Losses in a connector are not even measurable without test equipment that costs more than a few houses.

Ditto for solder vs quick disconnects.

You'll do fine with plain el-cheapo tin plated copper quick disconnects. Your only concerns are:

• they're rated for the wire gauge you are using
• they don't wiggle loose
• they don't corrode
• the wire doesn't corrode

Pliers can fix loose quick disconnects. Automotive dielectric grease and heat shrink prevents corrosion.

Contrary to some people on the internet, dielectric grease does not cause a 'loss' in the connection at all. Use the grease.


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