# 2008 ISF Audio Build



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

I am currently working on a 3 day ISF full audio build. 

Products:
JBL MS8
Hertz 6.5 Coaxial rears
Pioneer Stage 4 components running active
2 Audison LRx amps and a alpine PDX M12
2 Alpine Type R's
2nd Battery

I will break down the wiring diagram as best I can for future installers.




























Removing door panels



























Stock speakers vs aftermarket


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Lines up with factory holes









Rear doors


















Location behind the battery for 0 gauge



























Dyanamt trunk


















Amps









Stock amp


----------



## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

Is that an optical connector at the bottom left of the factory amp?


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Thrill_House said:


> Is that an optical connector at the bottom left of the factory amp?


No that is the GPS antenna


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You go boy, do work son lol. Text me when you can.


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

whys that pioneer speaker look like the surround is all crinkled. at first i thought it was ribbed or something but i looked closer and it does not look symetrical and it looks used, like from a previous install from the wear on the mounting locations. $60k car at least and second hand damaged equipment?


----------



## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

req said:


> whys that pioneer speaker look like the surround is all crinkled. at first i thought it was ribbed or something but i looked closer and it does not look symetrical and it looks used, like from a previous install from the wear on the mounting locations. $60k car at least and second hand damaged equipment?


Was wondering the same thing about the speaker surround. I saw a set of those on eBay a few days ago and they looked just like those.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

I thought the same thing. Also, why using the factory mounting brackets for the speakers? Oh, and are you planning on more deadening for those front doors?


----------



## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Love the ISF!!! I have a GS 350 AWD and I am finally getting close to being finished with installing my system. I don't have the ML system and I am really happy with the results thus far. I think that the ML system will require some summing to take place with the signals. If you need a wiring diagram I would check clublexus.com to see if someone has it as it will make things easier for you.


----------



## TokoSpeaker (Nov 12, 2010)

Nice car, Nice equipment.

Are you DIY to install the audio equipment?

Thank you.


----------



## bhammer (Dec 9, 2011)

That speaker looks used. You can see the black that has been removed from the result of bolting it down. It looks like the speaker has been tweaked... Maybe being mounted into a too small of a hole or something....


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

The crinkled surround does look odd and the speaker obviously has been used but does this really matter? I have the stage 4 set also and that midbass is a total badass performer.

OP, check your other thread you posted earlier about the wiring diagram. Expect problems using the MS-8 in this car. Been there done that in my IS.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

I could care less if they are used, just wondering why the OP would choose to install damaged speakers and if they were going to be installed correctly?


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

That surround is a like a microfiber material. It's the softest, most compliant surround I've ever seen on a driver. Mine don't crinkle like that but maybe if the surround has been heat/sun aged or gotten wet, I could possibly see the crinkling occurring.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> I thought the same thing. Also, why using the factory mounting brackets for the speakers? Oh, and are you planning on more deadening for those front doors?





bhammer said:


> That speaker looks used. You can see the black that has been removed from the result of bolting it down. It looks like the speaker has been tweaked... Maybe being mounted into a too small of a hole or something....






Niebur3 said:


> I could care less if they are used, just wondering why the OP would choose to install damaged speakers and if they were going to be installed correctly?


The owner had me install those mids in a 370z 7 months ago. After he sold the car he put them upside down in a box which I believe pushed on the surrounding. I noticed this when I took them out, however I have read that a lot of these do this from either storage or heavy use. If they sound bad after install I will recommending going with morel or CXS drivers. 

Yes there is dynamat going on inside and out on those panels.









I could build my own brackets however with the holes lining up perfectly and giving me the clearance I need, I see why not use the stock ones. We will wrap them in dynamat before putting them back in.












ISTundra said:


> The crinkled surround does look odd and the speaker obviously has been used but does this really matter? I have the stage 4 set also and that midbass is a total badass performer.
> 
> OP, check your other thread you posted earlier about the wiring diagram. Expect problems using the MS-8 in this car. Been there done that in my IS.


Did you turn off the cars DSP before calibration as you should? What did you end up running your sound processor from pre outs or speaker level?


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Xandr said:


> So why you didn't build your own if you can? Take the MDF or plywood and cut the pods out, because using the stock ones even wrapped with dynamat it's for novices!!!
> 
> Are you novice? It seems that yes.
> 
> PS. pay more attention to deadening


That was the start of deadening just showing that yes we are doing dynamat.


----------



## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Xandr said:


> So why you didn't build your own if you can? Take the MDF or plywood and cut the pods out, because using the stock ones even wrapped with dynamat it's for novices!!!
> 
> Are you novice? It seems that yes.
> 
> PS. pay more attention to deadening



Why would you waste the time to build something that is already built and working that came from the factory? Thats not novice, thats using your time wisely.

Adding MDF to a door isnt exactly the smartest thing to do in all situations. It swells and molds very easily unless you coat it with resin which then makes the car smell.


----------



## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

chefhow said:


> Why would you waste the time to build something that is already built and working that came from the factory? Thats not novice, thats using your time wisely.
> 
> Adding MDF to a door isnt exactly the smartest thing to do in all situations. It swells and molds very easily unless you coat it with resin which then makes the car smell.



Yes I have had swelling issues as well!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Have you ever heard the saying " if it ain't broke, don't fix it". It is logical that if it is a workable solution, why not work it. Also you have to realize that there are several variables to this install that he is working around. As we all know the customer comes first and dollars dictate. I am sure that when he posts the build thread on his own car, his true worth will shine. I can afford whomever I want to work on my cars, I chose him and have not a moment of regret.
Benjamin Singleton
Singleton Investment LLC.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Speaker wires ran









Inside door



























"I did not do the dynamat owner did"


















Factory wiring harnesses


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Solder and heat shrink connections









Rubber tape to wrap them all nice


















Rear seats out


















Battery ground upgrade









Factory mid location now home to tweeter. Not pretty but very strong. Gorilla epoxy


















Sub wiring


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Subs ready









Most cables ran for tomorrow









MS8 home


----------



## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

Did you build the sub enclosure or is it a prefab?
What's the plan for the amprack?
Are you bustin out any glass in this build?


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

crnacnac said:


> Did you build the sub enclosure or is it a prefab?
> What's the plan for the amprack?
> Are you bustin out any glass in this build?


No glass sadly after the customer just wanted something to look stock "even though I could make it look that way" 

Sub box is prefab again customers want.

Amp rack is going to take place where the spare lived. All 3 amps will be mounted there almost at the same level as the floor.


----------



## Se7en (Mar 28, 2007)

Nice car, nice work, nice progress!


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

wait just curious, did you get rid of the stock amp completely? and use the INPUTs from the headunit to the stock amp? how did that work? i though its proprietary datalink between those two...maybe its just the foto you had with the stock amp completely gone...and you were just doing it to make the wiring easier...but just curious.

remember also the car has a non defeatable highpass filter on all the channels , around 35hz iirc...and also i would run it all off the front door signals, and dont even use the sub channel.

b


----------



## chelecuche (Aug 14, 2011)

Nice build! I always enjoy watching your work!


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> wait just curious, did you get rid of the stock amp completely? and use the INPUTs from the headunit to the stock amp? how did that work? i though its proprietary datalink between those two...maybe its just the foto you had with the stock amp completely gone...and you were just doing it to make the wiring easier...but just curious.
> 
> b


I'm pretty sure the ML amp is hiding under the MS-8 in the pics above.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

ur right, i saw it later down on the page


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

*2008 ISF Speaker Wiring Diagram*



simplicityinsound said:


> wait just curious, did you get rid of the stock amp completely? and use the INPUTs from the headunit to the stock amp? how did that work? i though its proprietary datalink between those two...maybe its just the foto you had with the stock amp completely gone...and you were just doing it to make the wiring easier...but just curious.
> 
> remember also the car has a non defeatable highpass filter on all the channels , around 35hz iirc...and also i would run it all off the front door signals, and dont even use the sub channel.
> 
> b


Ya I kept the head unit and used the front speaker outputs to go into the JBL. So in total I am summing 4 inputs.

Left Front Low *White +/ Red Wire -* 
Left Front Mid/High *Brown +/ Pink -*
Right Front Low *Sky Blue +/ Orange -*
Right Front Mid/High *Black +/ Green -*


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

Any updates to this? I'm curious to learn how if you found a way to overcome the sampling rate issues between the MS-8 and the factory system.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

ISTundra said:


> Any updates to this? I'm curious to learn how if you found a way to overcome the sampling rate issues between the MS-8 and the factory system.


I did not seem to come into any problems with this. Possibly the MS8 I uses was already updated?


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Ok got the owner to send me the pics, have some more to come so please be patient!!! 

Trimmed the battery terminal cover to allow for the power wire to come out.









Work in progress pics of the power wire wake up wire and so on.


















Organizing all the wires, zip tied every 6 inches or so. The two grommets towards the top of the rear seats provide great locations to run wires. NOTE make sure to cover them with some kind ot rubber rap and or shielding. 









Labeled all the outputs for the amps as for quick reference.









Battery grounded, made sure there was no resistance for this ground.









Amps installed on new rack









Owner wanted easy access to his bass knob and radar 









Wiring up all the power wires!!


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> I did not seem to come into any problems with this. Possibly the MS8 I uses was already updated?


Did I miss something? How would you know if there is a problem when the amps aren't even connected?



bigaudiofanatic said:


> Owner wanted easy access to his bass knob and radar


This is a 50k car....sorry, but I'm not a fan of that ^^^. What about locating the bass knob and radar in the little compartment with the nice cover below the radio?


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> Did I miss something? How would you know if there is a problem when the amps aren't even connected?
> 
> 
> 
> This is a 50k car....sorry, but I'm not a fan of that ^^^. What about locating the bass knob and radar in the little compartment with the nice cover below the radio?


The install was completed Sunday night at 12:30 he has been enjoying the system sense than. He only has to come back for fine tuning. 

He wanted the knobs there you know as much as I do what the customer wants is what they want. That is where he wanted them.


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> I did not seem to come into any problems with this. Possibly the MS8 I uses was already updated?


Hmm... maybe there has been an MS-8 update since I fought this a year ago. I will say that the issue I had wasn't readily apparent at first, and I thought I had it beat a few times after trying different fixes, but it always seemed to come back eventually.

Where did you put the MS-8 display? I used the ashtray in the compartment Neibur mentions to locate my BitOne DRC.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

ISTundra said:


> Hmm... maybe there has been an MS-8 update since I fought this a year ago. I will say that the issue I had wasn't readily apparent at first, and I thought I had it beat a few times after trying different fixes, but it always seemed to come back eventually.
> 
> Where did you put the MS-8 display? I used the ashtray in the compartment Neibur mentions to locate my BitOne DRC.


I used the space under the arm rest in that opening. If we do come into problems such as when I do the fine tuning we will than talk about the bitone.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Here are some finished pictures. Will get more when he comes for tuning. I will also check out if adding the sub to the inputs for summing adds anything. 

Fuse block was placed on top of the fuse box for a few reasons.
Quick removal is you need to get to fuses.
Held in place with no drilling any holes.
Perfect location

Also the ground wire was upgraded as well, using the stock grounding location only paint was removed and stock bolt.









Subs installed


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i understand the "Customer wants" thing, but in the long run, you need to learn to be confident and say "Trust me, i know a much better way to do this" and go ahead and do it. things like sticking the controllers on the side of the center console is a good example. Say "I have a standard when it comes to install, and i cannot do what you ask". 

If i gave the customer exactly waht they wanted each and every time, i would turn out some pretty bad stuff. your the expert, so you dictate how it needs to be done as long as its not violating major requirements from them.

also, becareful of velcro in the engine bay, i have yet to see any kind of sticky backed velcro hold up under the intense heat of the engine bay.


----------



## Xandr (Jan 17, 2011)

bigaudiofanatic said:


>


You meen that it's good decision to use velcro for mounting of main fuse? As I see on photo it had already started to peel off. It would be better and more reliable to screw it to the fuse box's cover, but to make a pod for this fuse and mount it to the metal (or battery holder) will be the best.


----------



## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> No that is the GPS antenna


For future reference it is actually the digital input into the amplifier.


----------



## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Not trying to jump on the hater bandwagon, but that negative battery terminal does not belong either. Those honestly have no place on ANY car in my opinion.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> Not trying to jump on the hater bandwagon, but that negative battery terminal does not belong either. Those honestly have no place on ANY car in my opinion.


^^^ Good catch. I didn't notice that. What he said, grounding in the trunk and the battery terminal, you are begging for a ground loop. You never need to ground at the battery terminal. As far as using velcro in the engine compartment, I agree, a really bad idea. I don't see why he would need that quick of access not to properly mount it. 

Also, again...not to be a hater, but what is the extra battery for? Does he plan on running the system a lot with the engine off? If not, then I don't see why it is necessary. Did you upgrade the big 3?

Any pics of the trunk showing the final look of the equipment (amps, MS8, etc?). Or did it end up just with everything screwed to a raw board?


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

In the pic it looks like the hood would come in contact with the fuse holder when closed.I used the heavy duty velcro in my son's car for the fuse holder but the surface is metal & flat with no issues.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Xandr said:


> You meen that it's good decision to use velcro for mounting of main fuse? As I see on photo it had already started to peel off. It would be better and more reliable to screw it to the fuse box's cover, but to make a pod for this fuse and mount it to the metal (or battery holder) will be the best.


The velcro is industrial strength reinforced with epoxy. I do not think it is going anywhere. 



simplicityinsound said:


> i understand the "Customer wants" thing, but in the long run, you need to learn to be confident and say "Trust me, i know a much better way to do this" and go ahead and do it. things like sticking the controllers on the side of the center console is a good example. Say "I have a standard when it comes to install, and i cannot do what you ask".
> 
> If i gave the customer exactly waht they wanted each and every time, i would turn out some pretty bad stuff. your the expert, so you dictate how it needs to be done as long as its not violating major requirements from them.
> 
> also, becareful of velcro in the engine bay, i have yet to see any kind of sticky backed velcro hold up under the intense heat of the engine bay.


Price is the second reason if you really want to get into that and third time, I once again note i had 2 and a half days to do this entire system. Getting done at 12:30 at night on sunday would not happen if I was doing fiberglass. I am not going to force a customer to do something he or she does not want me to do. 



stalintc said:


> For future reference it is actually the digital input into the amplifier.


From what I have seen it is GPS but hey no one is perfect.



strong*I*bumpin said:


> In the pic it looks like the hood would come in contact with the fuse holder when closed.I used the heavy duty velcro in my son's car for the fuse holder but the surface is metal & flat with no issues.


Does not even come close, has about a 1/2 inch if not more clearance between the hood and the top of the fuse holder.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> ^^^ Good catch. I didn't notice that. What he said, grounding in the trunk and the battery terminal, you are begging for a ground loop. You never need to ground at the battery terminal. As far as using velcro in the engine compartment, I agree, a really bad idea. I don't see why he would need that quick of access not to properly mount it.
> 
> Also, again...not to be a hater, but what is the extra battery for? Does he plan on running the system a lot with the engine off? If not, then I don't see why it is necessary. Did you upgrade the big 3?
> 
> Any pics of the trunk showing the final look of the equipment (amps, MS8, etc?). Or did it end up just with everything screwed to a raw board?


What do you mean as far as the ground battery terminal? 

Second battery is because he is running 3 amps and wanted to take some of the load of the front battery. I did not do the big 3.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

DaveRulz said:


> Not trying to jump on the hater bandwagon,


Seems thats what this thread is turning into


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> Price is the second reason if you really want to get into that and third time, I once again note i had 2 and a half days to do this entire system. Getting done at 12:30 at night on sunday would not happen if I was doing fiberglass. I am not going to force a customer to do something he or she does not want me to do.


Trust me i know well what kind of time it takes to install in that car  i am merely suggesting that if you had 2.5 days to work on the car, doing something like this to the sub bass volume control really isnt that much more time consuming than putting it down on the center console, and i really doubt your customer is gonna say, oh no, i dont want that there... its a en extra 5 mins of work and IMO would present a more professional finish.










i am just trying to give some useful advice, not hating on your thread or build...if i really see what i don't like, i just ignore it completely...but i am just trying to help here...plenty of people give me suggestions and stuff and it helps...:worried:


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> Trust me i know well what kind of time it takes to install in that car  i am merely suggesting that if you had 2.5 days to work on the car, doing something like this to the sub bass volume control really isnt that much more time consuming than putting it down on the center console, and i really doubt your customer is gonna say, oh no, i dont want that there... its a en extra 5 mins of work and IMO would present a more professional finish.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok, I will talk to him and suggest that we move it to a blank opening, if he goes for it I have no problem. I completely understand where you are coming from.

One I did for a BMW


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> What do you mean as far as the ground battery terminal?
> 
> Second battery is because he is running 3 amps and wanted to take some of the load of the front battery. I did not do the big 3.


You have a 0ga wire connected to the negative of the battery terminal of the battery under the hood. If you didn't do the big 3, then I am curious what it is there for? Next time, I would do the big 3 because now you have 2 batteries running off the puny wires the factory connects everything with. 

The load is on the alternator when the car is running, not the battery. Now the factory alternator has 2 batteries to charge.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> You have a 0ga wire connected to the negative of the battery terminal of the battery under the hood. If you didn't do the big 3, then I am curious what it is there for? Next time, I would do the big 3 because now you have 2 batteries running off the puny wires the factory connects everything with.
> 
> The load is on the alternator when the car is running, not the battery. Now the factory alternator has 2 batteries to charge.


I understand the 2 batteries to charge but if I did not add a second battery "and did not want to add a cap" would cause headlight dimming. 

Both batteries are suppose to have the same size wire for + and - so I used 0 gauge going to the back so I upgraded the ground wire of the stock battery and used 0 gauge in the trunk.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

I see...good upgrade on the battery ground.

FWIW, I have 3 ARC Audio 4200se's on my factory alternator and upgraded yellow top battery with the big 3 done and absolutely no headlight dimming issues. Also, a cap will do absolutely nothing for headlight dimming. You can put it in line to take noise out of the power supply though!


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> I see...good upgrade on the battery ground.
> 
> FWIW, I have 3 ARC Audio 4200se's on my factory alternator and upgraded yellow top battery with the big 3 done and absolutely no headlight dimming issues. Also, a cap will do absolutely nothing for headlight dimming. You can put it in line to take noise out of the power supply though!


Ya when I first started out in car audio I had a cap now I do not even touch them. 
Probably have a nice setup


----------



## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> From what I have seen it is GPS but hey no one is perfect.


I was not trying to be a jerk "sippin da hateraid". I just wanted to help out since you had mentioned you wanted to leave some good info for future installers (which we all can appreciate). 

I have a very intimate knowledge of that amplifier, so I just wanted to help that's all.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Thank you for that info, did not take it as a jerk statement, glad it was cleared up.


----------



## ISTundra (Jan 3, 2009)

Dude I know you've been taking some heat in here, but I can appreciate the build thread anyway. I have one of these (IS350 though) and I can attest that nothing in this car is easy. I've been tempted to throw in the towel and go back to stock so many times. Keep plugging away.

How does the tweeter sound in that stock midrange location?


----------



## sebberry (May 1, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> Not trying to jump on the hater bandwagon, but that negative battery terminal does not belong either. Those honestly have no place on ANY car in my opinion.


What's wrong with the negative terminal?


----------



## Xandr (Jan 17, 2011)

bigaudiofanatic said:


> The velcro is industrial strength reinforced with epoxy. I do not think it is going anywhere.


You dont think but I and the others know that.

If you build an SQ system you dont need 2 batteries, but if you want TWO, you need to change stock alternator, otherwise you will kill both of your batteries because of not enough current to charge them.

As well in 2 battery config you need to connect positive to positive and negative to negative clem respectively and connect the groung to the body only once.

try this, true SQ config


----------



## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

sebberry said:


> What's wrong with the negative terminal?


It's a piece of ****. I've used them before, and they ended up in the garbage. They're tempting because they're cheap and available. If you're thinking about using one, my recommendation is don't even think about it. There are much better options for not a lot more coin.


----------



## WhiteLX (Jan 25, 2010)

DaveRulz said:


> It's a piece of ****. I've used them before, and they ended up in the garbage. They're tempting because they're cheap and available. If you're thinking about using one, my recommendation is don't even think about it. There are much better options for not a lot more coin.


Please link to better terminals. I am currently using these on two cars, but I hate the way they look (although have functioned perfect for several years). I used to have gold set screw terminals, bit they always corroded horribly.


----------



## shake this (Jan 10, 2012)

Very clean install and I understand regarding the customer dectating certian things.


----------



## sebberry (May 1, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> It's a piece of ****. I've used them before, and they ended up in the garbage. They're tempting because they're cheap and available. If you're thinking about using one, my recommendation is don't even think about it. There are much better options for not a lot more coin.


Interesting, but I'm still confused as to what is wrong with them.


----------



## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

WhiteLX said:


> Please link to better terminals. I am currently using these on two cars, but I hate the way they look (although have functioned perfect for several years). I used to have gold set screw terminals, bit they always corroded horribly.


The basic streetwires battery terminals are very well designed. Just crimp/solder a lug on to your wire.

Or you can use something like this

There are many other "car audio" type terminals that are much better. I prefer the type that works with ring terminals. I've had good luck with these in the past.


----------



## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

sebberry said:


> Interesting, but I'm still confused as to what is wrong with them.


They are inferior in both the way the grip the wire, and the way they grip the battery post.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

DaveRulz said:


> They are inferior in both the way the grip the wire, and the way they grip the battery post.


Never had any trouble with them, maybe because I use locktite on where the wire is being held?


----------



## sebberry (May 1, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> They are inferior in both the way the grip the wire, and the way they grip the battery post.



Interesting.

The Scosche fuse block and battery terminals I have tried use set-screws that mash half the wire down and leave half the strands loose inside the barrel.

I would have thought that anything that provides grip all around the wire would make for a better connection.


----------



## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Yeah, and I am recommending units that use ring terminals...not set screws.


----------



## WhiteLX (Jan 25, 2010)

DaveRulz said:


> The basic streetwires battery terminals are very well designed. Just crimp/solder a lug on to your wire.
> 
> Or you can use something like this
> 
> There are many other "car audio" type terminals that are much better. I prefer the type that works with ring terminals. I've had good luck with these in the past.


Thanks! I have been looking for the Taylor style one for a while, just never knew who made it. The others are nice too, definitely going to go for something nice for my show car, but the Taylor is perfect for my truck.

BTW, I like your choice in amps, I've always wanted some of those old infinitys.


----------

