# Tinned speaker wire?



## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

I have been reading that tinned speaker wire is the best to use in car audio because it minimizes corrosion in the long run. However, almost everyone, even expensive brands sell normal OFC copper wire, often with only one conductor tinned. Who sells affordable tinned speaker wire? I am looking for 20-40 ft of 16-18 awg wire to run from amp in the trunk to my tweeters.

The only one I have found so far is Kicker xw1620. The online price is $20-25 for 20 ft which seems expensive.

Or maybe it's not worth to mess with these? Maybe I should just get the lowest priced OFC speaker wire from PE, etc?


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## nick650 (Feb 7, 2011)

Knukonceptz.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLE16BL


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

Not another myth waiting to be busted.....
Anyway, regardless of home audio or car audio, proper terminations are the most important factor to be considered...
For me, I will get the a normal speaker wire, solder it myself and then terminate it before connecting it to speakers.... Even if you use silver solder(another myth?) also won't cost much....


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

I use 24k gold solder and I can hear the difference from 2 blocks away.


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## Sarthos (Oct 29, 2010)

Well that's only if you screw up the solder and the other guy's system can be heard from 2 blocks away, yours can't cause there's no contact to finish the circuit


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

ZAKOH said:


> I have been reading that tinned speaker wire is the best to use in car audio because it minimizes corrosion in the long run. However, almost everyone, even expensive brands sell normal OFC copper wire, often with only one conductor tinned. Who sells affordable tinned speaker wire? I am looking for 20-40 ft of 16-18 awg wire to run from amp in the trunk to my tweeters.
> 
> The only one I have found so far is Kicker xw1620. *The online price is $20-25 for 20 ft which seems expensive.*
> 
> Or maybe it's not worth to mess with these? Maybe I should just get the lowest priced OFC speaker wire from PE, etc?


that does seem a little expencive. tsunami wire has 250ft of 12g for $120. (that is about $0.50 a ft)

if you are really concerned with oxidation at the termination point, then solder your connections before you put them in the amplifier and solder your jacks for speaker termination.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

There is a difference in the solders used, PERIOD. 

BUT!!!!!!!!!

Will you hear the difference? 

The human ear, NO. Even on an RTA you wont. But there is a measurable difference from one compound to the next.


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Thats why I use wireless speakers and amplifiers. I dont have to worry about expensive wires.


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## newnick (Oct 30, 2011)

That would nice, all wireless.


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## gnesterenko (Mar 17, 2011)

Tinned is somewhat important as it will resist corrosion vs pure copper. That said, as above, the more important bit is going tobe your terminations. Assuming you don't have any abrasions in your protective jackets, the only place your wires will be exposed to the environment is at the terminations. Make sure you solder and seal these well, and OFC will work as well as tinned-OFC. That said, tinned-OFC will always work as well as OFC and vice versa in their uncorroded states. And one last thing is, if you are looking on a deal for speaker wire, why not try the classifieds on this website. Much cheap products to be had.


As for terminations, I have offer very high praise to the ones you can get on McMaster. Check out the 'Heat-Shring Insulated Quick-Disconnect Terminals', specifically the 'Sure-Connect Insulated-Barrel' type. Used those and they are absolutely awesome. They are crimp & solder connectors, with solder preapplied in the barrel so just insert your wire, crimp the crimp section and apply heat to shrink the protective cover around your wire and to melt the solder for a secure mechanical and soolder connection that is completely insulated. Love em! Just be careful not to overapply heat - I did that one one of my connections and melted a little bit of the protective cover on one of my speaker wire negative terminals. This was occasionally making contact with the sheet metal inside my door, causing a short and sending the amplifier into very brief, but annoying protection mode. I had to throw another bit of sealing heatshrink over the exposed bit of metal, but otherwise no biggie.

Posting from work, so need this disclaimer:
"The views expressed here are mine and do not reflect the official opinion of my employer or the organization through which the Internet was accessed."


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