# 2012 Hyundai Elantra | Pioneer "Stage 4" audio build log



## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

It is time!

The warm months are upon us and I can finally do some work on the car outside.
Not having a garage, my winter time has been spent patiently accumulating the pieces of my car audio install puzzle.

Below are the components I currently have:

```
Condition	Paid	Retail
TS-W252PRS	New		340$	599.99$
TS-C172PRS	New		410$	899.99$
PRS-D1200M	Used		220$	499.99$
PRS-D4200F	Open Box	280$	499.99$
JBL MS-8	Open Box	500$	799.99$
Kicker PKD4	Open Box	100$	199.99$
				====	====
				1850$	3500$
```
Missing Items
I am still missing a few things that I will be ordering in the coming days.
- Rearfill speakers: Pioneer TS-D1702R
- Subwoofer box: Need a 10" 1.00 cu ft one
- Speaker wires: leaning towards a spool of 12 AWG Kicker 09XW12150 (but debating if I should just get some 16AWG one and save 100$)

Why all the Pioneer components?
You can call it some form of blind brand loyalty. I used their stuff in my previous car (new deck and speakers in '96 Accent) with good results. One day I stumbled on a deal for the W252PRS subwoofer, almost 50% off looked great so I got it right away. Then came the realization I'll need the rest of the stage 4 things to complement the sub and one purchase led to the others 

My experience level?
Beginner. I've installed a single system previously, the aforementioned Radio install and speaker swap. I never installed an amplifier, subwoofer, or re-wired the car.

Let the fun begin!

Below are the pictures of the current stuff.


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

Day 1

Today I looked at how to wire the power cables.
Using the excellent Flatland2D' Elantra Limited w/ Nav Subwoofer and Amplifier Install and Setup (step-by-step guide) - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum as a template, I set out to plan out the install.

I then ran into an issue.
The hole Flatland2D used that has the hood release wire, is not large enough for me. There is some space in there, but definitively not for a 4AWG wire:












As an alternative, I've decided I'll need to drill a hole, and will be using the suggested location as per this youtube video:










2012 Elantra GLS Dash Removal, Adding Subwoofer, Adding Line Converter to Stock Radio - YouTube

Drilling tomorrow.


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## adamand (Apr 19, 2009)

This looks like it'll be fun! Just make sure to triple check before drilling :laugh:

Sub'd.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Top notch gear,good luck with the build.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

Subscribed


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

sub'd!

been looking into the stage 4's


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Subscribed. I have the earlier TS-C720PRS set and I LOVE them.


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

Day 2

Today I passed the power wire through the car from the engine bay to the trunk.

I started by trying to determine where the hole would be if I'd drill in the clutch plate. Not seeing anything, I decided to drill a small pilot hole. After drilling I used my turn on wire and inserted some into the hole to help me find the hole from the engine bay.










After confirming my hole is not in the way of any electrical / mechanical paths, I enlarged it to the size of my wiring kit's plastic grommet.










I then removed those 2 huge connectors behind the battery to have better access to the hole, and inserted my power wire from there. One of the ends was already pre-terminated, so I needed to insert that way. I slid on the grommet on the wire, and once all the wire wass pulled through, the grommet snapped in nicely into the hole.










For now I just rolled the cable and put it aside on the fuse box. I will cut it and attach the fuse on another day.










Time to pass the cable to the trunk.
I started by inserting the wire from the top of the panel, and pushing the wire until it poped out.


















The next step is when I stared cursing.
Passing the wire from the front of the car to the rear of the car, it always wanted to go up the pillar with the seat belt.










After trying various methods to pull the wire out using twisting, coat hanger, string, and having no success I was ready to call it a day. But desided to try one more time and FINALLY was able to pull the wire out to the rear of the car.










One more dive under some plastic trim










And the final result:


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## BakedCookies (Sep 6, 2011)

nice looking gear, looking forward to updates!


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

Yesterday the UPS man brought me some more items for my build from sonicelectronix.

Pioneer TS-D1702R = Rear doors speakers (60W RMS)
Sonic Sub Box: 1H10-1.0 (Gray) = 1.00 cu ft sub enclosure
Kicker 09ZW16 (100FT) = 16AWG tinned OFC speaker wire
Scosche TK12 = Wire cutter, trim removal tool, polarity tester
Pioneer UD-G258 = Subwoofer grill

Yea, I went with 16AWG. Bought some sound deadening material with the 150$ difference. 
I think that'll make a bigger difference then the 12/16 voltage drop difference over a 15ft length. 

Now I just need my monoprice rca cables










Two issues with the subwoofer box through.
1) I should of went for the Black colored one. The Grey one looked darker on the website, and I though it was matching the trunk, but Black would of been better now that I have tested it.
2) The cutout is too small by 2/8 of an inch (6.3mm). I'll need to use a file to enlarge the hole for my sub to fit.


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

Day 3

Today wasn't a particularly productive day, hung over from last night, started late, and then sun started to come down soon after so it was a short day.

I still managed to run 2 of the longest speaker wire lengths; trunk to front driver door. One for tweeter, one for mid.

I must say that "wire fish-n-snake" tool included in that TK12 kit is surprisingly usefull. I just had to cutoff the end with the RCA plugs as it was too big for me.
Kind of like the coat hanger way of pulling wires, but this one is rubber-plastic coated so it won't scratch anything, and it bends easier. I like it.

Ran the speaker wires on the opposite side of the car with the power wires. In the same place as before along the car, then ran it up in the front, above the glovebox, under the radio, under the steering wheel, and out.

Tomorrow I'll connect the front left speakers in the door and to that wire.
As can be seen from the pictures I left lots of slack, but it's too much.
On those 2 cables today I used 56 ft of wire. Out of my 100 ft spool.
That's why I need to connect the speaker and pull back on the wire so I only use the exact required lengths and have enough for the other 5 runs.


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

Day 4

Today I needed to finish the front driver's side first before being able to run any more wires, and I didn't finish that door yet.

The mid speaker was straightforward enough to mount, but trying to figure out how to mount the tweeter took up most of my time.










This is the best I could some up with without cutting anything.
The pioneer tweeters are huge, and they have this huge unremovable metal surround ring, that makes them impossible to insert into the factory tweeter hole.










I wasn't satisfied with that 'held by some pressure and screw' mounting solution.
I put back the door without the tweeter and called it a day.

Will try something else next weekend.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

Not sure if this would work for you. But I cut some rings out using my jigsaw and 1/4" wood. I built them out far enough so I didn't need not cut anything but the ring on the cup. I used hot glue to keep it all together. My stage was much wider and higher than the stock location I had them in. Though I'm thinking about going with a larger format tweeter and using the same location. It will take some fabrication bondo/fiberglass to get it there. 










I have more install pics of how I did my doors and amp box if you need them. Not sure how far you want to go.


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## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

That's going to be a really nice system. I love the way that Pioneer sub looks. 

Any sound deadening materials in the budget? 

Good luck with the install!


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

oilman said:


> Not sure if this would work for you. But I cut some rings out using my jigsaw and 1/4" wood. I built them out far enough so I didn't need not cut anything but the ring on the cup. I used hot glue to keep it all together. My stage was much wider and higher than the stock location I had them in. Though I'm thinking about going with a larger format tweeter and using the same location. It will take some fabrication bondo/fiberglass to get it there.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I looked at installing them in there, but I'll try to mount them in the doors first. I'd like to keep a stock look if possible.
Otherwise yes, I'll have to drill a nice hole in mine and put my tweeters there... if they fits.




stockley.rod said:


> Any sound deadening materials in the budget?


Yep!
Bought a kit of foil and foam from RaamAudio. Order didn't ship yet.


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## wojtek (Dec 12, 2011)

My new tweeter comes with a mounting bracker/dome thingy similar to the hyundai one that angles it as a specific degree.
Right now my best idea is to dremel out the parts of the inside of the door that prevent the tweeter from fitting, and using that supplied dome to mount it like the stock one.


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

looking good. sometimes i miss my pioneer comps.....sometimes. Make sure to let us know how that sub sounds, it looks beautiful


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## stochastic (Jan 24, 2012)

Sweet another Elantra on the forums. Subscribed.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Any updates?


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

bbfoto said:


> Any updates?


Werd!


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

i'd also like to see some updates and more pics....


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Last Activity: 05-09-2012...


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

"*thump, thump, thump, another one bites the dust....*"


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## fisc2307 (Oct 29, 2011)

did you run speaker wire through the front door jambs, if so how did you remove the connector in there and deal with routing?


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