# 2014 Civic Si Coupe - Build Log



## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Well guys, I have been researching and questioning for a few months now and I have started to build. I am very busy so I can only fit in a fews hour a week in and when my shop tucks on a shelf and in cupboards every night, it makes set up and tear down a time killer!

This is my first build so opinions are optional but professional advice is highly recommended! 

I'll try to make mention and credit of specific tips and tricks I learn along the way.

My first mention is to Mark at CAF. If it wasn't for his videos I probably would have just thrown in the towel and cashed out!

Second is this forum. Thanks locotony for getting me here. 

... on with the build!


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Because this vehicle will be a daily driver I wanted to not be flashy and draw a lot of attention to it so I have decided to try and "hide" most of the install. Also, I am trying to modify the OEM a little as possible. I am discovering that this is not as easy as it sounds! 

Time, weather and ideas have made this build a little scattered so please bear with me.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

The gear:

Factory OEM w/Nav
Audison bitOne
Audison AV 5.1 with AV bit IN
PPI P65c3
JL Audio 12w3v3-4


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Pillars:
This is where I am planning to install the 3" mid-range and the 1" AMT on ch1 with 75w rms using the supplied passive crossover set ...



























I made a cast to work out some ideas ... 









I have discovered that here is not much room behind the second tier dash ... I will show a couple of FAILED ideas ...















I have come to the conclusion I have no choice but to cut into the pillar. Here is my current plan:




















I will try to match the OEM angle and look. They angle very nicley into the front center.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

The Box:
My first box and first time using a router!

I used a few programs I found online but I liked WinISD Pro, BCAE and 12volt.com

I needed it to be narrow so I could conceal it a little easier later. I used these programs and sketch-up to design my box - Thanks [email protected] for the videos

I didn't have the confidence to dive right in so I had Mark build me a blue print. Well I was almost dead on, I would have cut the hole and found out later the speaker would have hit the back of the box ... wow that would have been a nice mishap!

It's not quite done: (held together with carpet tape atm)





















I have not quite decided on my finish look other than it is going to have a false wall covered in grill cloth to resemble the factory interior so its a little more stealth. (second face is not attached in pic)


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Here is the factory harness at the amp located just under the dash above the gas pedal. Metra doesn't yet make a plug for this car so I may have to splice it.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Under the hood:

Need some ideas here for appearance:









I thought I would fabricate something to look nice, not much room though, some pics of your fuse blocks under the hood would be appreciated ...

I was able to find a grommet up behind the fender that leads right through the firewall. I used the plastic wire cover (like the OEM stuff) to cover the wire, it fits nice but not sure how to seal it up. It's a tight little space, might be able to get a small tube of silicone up there ... ideas?


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Back to the pillars:

Did some repositioning, I think this is going to work out nice. 





















Dry fit:

Finally was able to fit them behind that high dash, doing the right pillar should be a breeze! 





















Still have some shaping to do for that AMT, I think I will glass the mid then adjust the tweeter. It was a little tricky getting them perfectly parallel, the cast isn't that strong, but it will be attached to the stock pillar later.

They are angled towards the middle of the car, head level above the shifter. They should be close enough to each other. The mid is actually a little narrower than the pillar so it should blend in nicely. Hoping to keep a factory look.

Homework time !


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Box Assembly:

Had to take advantage of the nice weather, a little windy buy dry and sunny, perfect for my back yard shop!

Had a little trouble with my circle jig, when I flipped the board over I had a bit of a trapazoid! I cleaned it up with rabbit and flush trim, turned out very nice. For my first box build and first time using a router I even impressed myself ! lol 















My 45's are a little off as well, I think it i because of my economical table saw. Next time I will use my guide and my skill saw.





















Somehow when I screwed the face to the bottom I lifted the bottom a slight bit, I didn't notice until I attached the top.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Test Fit:





















The spare tire cover is soft plastic so the box sags and tips forward a little, but when pushed up tight it aligns along the back seat and top very nicely. I will be swapping out the plastic cover with a board.

Still have a large trunk space, I am hoping to create a false sense of a factory trunk.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I am having trouble finding button bolts and threaded tees locally to mount the woofer. The holes are a 8-32. I don't want a box of 100! I have a couple more stores to search.

I also forgot to put the speaker terminal in before I put it together ..doh! Would have been much easier. 

I am trying to find some pillars I can hack up and keep my OEM's, so that part is at a stand still. I think I am gong to tackle the wire harness next! 

Some comments would be nice! This is my first build!


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

Looks good man! You're definitely on the right path. I think it will turn out great! By threaded tees, do you mean t-nuts? I get mine from home depot. #8-32 Zinc-Plated Steel Coarse Tee Nuts (4 per Pack)-18861 - The Home Depot 

Not sure if they have home depot in Canada or not, but you should be able to find them in smaller packs. If not, it never hurts to have extra!

Also for pillars, check local junk yards, craigslist for people parting out vehicles, and ebay. With it being a newer car, you might not have many options but it never hurts to look. How are you going to cover the pillars when you finish?


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

i have a 2014 civic coupe.i hate the charging system the cpu controlled alt sucks!!
i haven't had a trunk in awhile the bass response from a trunk sucks. you have to open the trunk to get the back seat down...wtf 
my old civic si










my new civic












same box woofers and amps that ran you up out of the old hatch (LOUD)suck in the new car.

















good times i miss the old girl,we had a little club here is a few of the guy's cars.
the only 1 missing from the 86 civic line up is the 4 door sedan.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

jpf150 said:


> Looks good man! You're definitely on the right path. I think it will turn out great! By threaded tees, do you mean t-nuts? I get mine from home depot. #8-32 Zinc-Plated Steel Coarse Tee Nuts (4 per Pack)-18861 - The Home Depot
> 
> Not sure if they have home depot in Canada or not, but you should be able to find them in smaller packs. If not, it never hurts to have extra!
> 
> Also for pillars, check local junk yards, craigslist for people parting out vehicles, and ebay. With it being a newer car, you might not have many options but it never hurts to look. How are you going to cover the pillars when you finish?


Ya that's the ones. Home Depot didn't have them that small. I found them at Brafasco. Strange, such a small bolt for a big speaker ...

Pillars: I have a textured finish on the OEM pillars, it's actually a square box hash look, not going to be able to replicate that, I have no real vinyl look in this car. I am looking at using the OEM pillar as a skeleton, one reason is for the air bag, so I don't get fiberglassed should that bag ever deploy. Also so it keeps the true form of the original. I have been playing with the box liner stuff, it's messy and its going to take some practicing to get it, I can see the look I want, but I am not skilled enough for the consistency! lol See SPEAKERMAKERS posts, he is amazing!

So I'll blend the mold into the cut out I will make in the pillar then sand it all down and prime, box coat and trim paint. I painted up a sample piece and it's looks pretty good, well, except for the uneven spatter! lol


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

CPU Controlled Alt ...
Haven't hit that stage yet. I have the Si with full Nav and the 360W sound, may it's controlled a little differently. (anyone elaborate on this?) Also considering replacing the alt as well. 1200W-1800W is a pretty hefty load on a little alt. Any one know the stock rating?


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

brewermoe said:


> CPU Controlled Alt ...
> Haven't hit that stage yet. I have the Si with full Nav and the 360W sound, may it's controlled a little differently. (anyone elaborate on this?) Also considering replacing the alt as well. 1200W-1800W is a pretty hefty load on a little alt. Any one know the stock rating?


You'll be fine with the stock alt. Upgrade the big 3 and beef up the battery.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Beckerson1 said:


> You'll be fine with the stock alt. Upgrade the big 3 and beef up the battery.


Ok, I have seen this many time, but haven't quite clued in ... the big three ..?


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

Beckerson1 said:


> You'll be fine with the stock alt. Upgrade the big 3 and beef up the battery.


the stock alt is 50 amp if he's lucky.the alt is not on demand power honda has it controlled buy the computer if you go on 9th gen civic you will see what i'm talking about.
add another battery if you use a new efficient amp you may be okay.
i have 2 RF Power dvc 10's and a PPI Power Class 2150 that is 600 watts 4 ohm mono and the voltage drops to 10 volts when i'm rocking out.i'll be adding a kinetic hc800 or buying a new asia made small ultra efficient amp maybe both.
the 360 watt stereo don't change the crappy charging set up.so you paid for the preminum nav system and you are going to bypass the factory amp and remove the speakers and sub??? i would have just got the cheapest factory radio and then upgraded.i have put this link up before it may have info that will help you.
2013 Civic "Premium Audio System" Navigation Stereo Upgrade | 9th Generation Honda Civic Forum

are you on here yet diy is good but for vehicle specific info you should go here.
9th Gen Civic Forum : 2012 Honda Civic Forums - 9th Generation


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

hc 800 is in the plan. 

I = P/E
= 1800w/14.4v (rms value of AV5.1 full volume)
= 125A ... is this correct? My system has the potential to draw up to 125A? and a 50A alternator is going to be suffice? ... would someone like to elaborate on this?

Can you even get an Si with a crappy stereo in Canada? Do they not usually upgrade the electrical system to accommodate the premium sound and NAV?

I am a member of the 9th gen civic forum.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

1styearsi said:


> the stock alt is 50 amp if he's lucky.the alt is not on demand power honda has it controlled buy the computer if you go on 9th gen civic you will see what i'm talking about.
> add another battery if you use a new efficient amp you may be okay.
> i have 2 RF Power dvc 10's and a PPI Power Class 2150 that is 600 watts 4 ohm mono and the voltage drops to 10 volts when i'm rocking out.i'll be adding a kinetic hc800 or buying a new asia made small ultra efficient amp maybe both.
> the 360 watt stereo don't change the crappy charging set up.so you paid for the preminum nav system and you are going to bypass the factory amp and remove the speakers and sub??? i would have just got the cheapest factory radio and then upgraded.i have put this link up before it may have info that will help you.
> ...


Just another reason to show Honda screwed up the 9th gen. No I didn't know that. Don't follow the 9th gen and assumed Honda didn't take that stupid leap in the wrong direction there.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Beckerson1 said:


> You'll be fine with the stock alt. Upgrade the big 3 and beef up the battery.


Agreed! But I'll add, if I had it to do again in my 8th gen, I'd have just done 4ga instead of 1/0 which I think considering the amps I'm running is silly overkill, but that's a topic of contention. 

I'm in! Love to see a Civic build. Damn I really gotta get my stuff in a build log, as humble as it is.


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

Beckerson1 said:


> Just another reason to show Honda screwed up the 9th gen. No I didn't know that. Don't follow the 9th gen and assumed Honda didn't take that stupid leap in the wrong direction there.


yeah it totally sucks man!!!! but 1 12 in a sealed box this guy should be okay.
i doubt he will blow you away with that setup.
there is a honda tech that said the 2014 has electric power steering (WHAT??) so you can add a alt in the spot that was for the P/S pump dedicated to the the "system".
sweet idea,but what is that going to cost???you have to fab up a bracket then figure out what belt you can use........seem's like a PIA!
DAMMET MAN it has me wanting to get rid of my civic! WTF Honda.....
i think that will void some kind of warranty. right?
i hope a big battery or 2 will be all that is needed.
i may do 2 kinteic hc600's.
i think if you go with a relatively efficient low watt woofer with sensitivity in mid to high 80's or 90's it will get plenty loud without having to put mad watts to it.
a woofer that has a sensitivity of 82db is less half as loud as one that is 85 or 86 with the same amount of power.(please correct me if i'm wrong on that)
these are not the best but look at the sensitivity wow 91db http://www.ebay.com/itm/Infinity-12...f&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=271879418536&rt=nc
most others are like 82/84
back in the 90's i ran 2 8 ohm punch 12's that were wayyy loud and held up for years.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

1styearsi said:


> yeah it totally sucks man!!!! but 1 12 in a sealed box this guy should be okay.
> i doubt he will blow you away with that setup.
> there is a honda tech that said the 2014 has electric power steering (WHAT??) so you can add a alt in the spot that was for the P/S pump dedicated to the the "system".
> sweet idea,but what is that going to cost???you have to fab up a bracket then figure out what belt you can use........seem's like a PIA!
> ...


Electric power assisted steering ..
You can power through a tight hard corner with your tongue! Very smooth, very responsive! Think opposite of go cart!

"I doubt he will blow you away?" 
Not sure what you mean by this? I am building a stealth low profile system to replace the economical existing system. Why bother hiding it if you can hear it six blocks away?

..add an alternator ...?
No plans on this, I may replace with a high output, will see after some testing.

"if you go with a relatively efficient low watt woofer with sensitivity in mid to high 80's or 90's it will get plenty loud without having to put mad watts to it"
is 87.15 good? 12W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

brewermoe said:


> Ya that's the ones. Home Depot didn't have them that small. I found them at Brafasco. Strange, such a small bolt for a big speaker ...
> 
> Pillars: I have a textured finish on the OEM pillars, it's actually a square box hash look, not going to be able to replicate that, I have no real vinyl look in this car. I am looking at using the OEM pillar as a skeleton, one reason is for the air bag, so I don't get fiberglassed should that bag ever deploy. Also so it keeps the true form of the original. I have been playing with the box liner stuff, it's messy and its going to take some practicing to get it, I can see the look I want, but I am not skilled enough for the consistency! lol See SPEAKERMAKERS posts, he is amazing!
> 
> So I'll blend the mold into the cut out I will make in the pillar then sand it all down and prime, box coat and trim paint. I painted up a sample piece and it's looks pretty good, well, except for the uneven spatter! lol


Nice! Glad you found them. Good luck with the pillars! I was never happy with the texture coating I had on mine lol, so I understand how you feel. I finally bought some vinyl and was going to make new ones and then wrap them, but that plan never came to see the light of day.


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

brewermoe said:


> Electric power assisted steering ..
> You can power through a tight hard corner with your tongue! Very smooth, very responsive! Think opposite of go cart!
> 
> "I doubt he will blow you away?"
> ...


i agree i love 1 woofer stealth systems.
i wasn't insulting you i was pointing out you were not building a spl car.
totally cool with me.
there is no high output alt yet because it's cpu controlled.
you may be able to fix the charging with a ecu tune.
i also like the steering plus they left you a place to put a alt that works lol..
i just went for a little ride MAD HEADLIGHT DIMMING i'm only doing 500 watts sometimes.
i think 87 sensitivity is fine for what your trying to do.
i think i'm going to break out my jlw7 12 pull the rockford P5002 out and throw a JBL MS-A5001 at it.
i will follow you build.....


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I have spoken to a technician from Honda and the factory OEM alternator in the 2014 Si is 95A.


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

i found this looking for a alt for myself i have a 1.8 so no go but they have the 2014 2.4 covered.
Honda Civic High Output Alternators


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Its " Pillar Time! " :beerchug:

Well, I cannot seem to find pillars for my car, perhaps the fact that it is a 2014, so I am going transfer my template to the pillar, (I really hate cutting into OEM on a brand new car!) glass, and hope to hit the paint ready stage tomorrow! I have both the SEM texture paint and the Dupli-Colour box liner stuff. I'll have to hone my skills and see how it turns out. (lol) While my mold is setting I have three things I would like to get done: finish the sub (except for the dress-up and false wall); tackle the wire harness off the deck; and the big three! I am still doing some research on the sound deading, would box liner over MDF work for a door hole cover instead of ABS?


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

informative site on sound deading: (one amonst many of course)

Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Well the rain drove me back to the wiring, the joys of the outdoor shop! lol Here are some pics splicing into the harness of the OEM deck:

Unplugged and untapped














NOTE: One rear channel and the sub use the SAME COLOURS ! 

Some soldering and some heat shrinks, discovered that some shrink more than others and some are thicker too, but it still held well














I used another heat shrink to bundle them up and then tapped over it. I just have to put some more wire loom over it








Tucked up nicely under the dash. As you can see I ran this down the passenger side. Still need more wire loom for protection.




















I tested all the lines for channel and power. Even though I don't need the remote-on for the bitOne, I am using it. It will take 2 secs off the start-up plus the time it takes for the deck to power up and send a line signal. Also in the wrap is the phone mute and another line I plan to use later for some lighting.

I have also roughed in the rears for future add on if I choose.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

This was bang on!

View attachment Wire diagrams.pdf


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

brewermoe said:


> This was bang on!
> 
> View attachment 72434


i know right 
u r welcome


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Whoah.. Wish I'd known you were gonna do all that. I have a Mercman harness you could have just plugged into the harness at the amp to get 4-ch left/right front/rear differential-balanced straight out into a 12foot RCA run. Although your '14 may have a different plug or pin outs.

If my airport express idea works, I may do that again with OEM head unit for CD's and radio, and let the iPhone supply the lossless tunes and anything else. 

But now it's done, nice work. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Babs said:


> Whoah.. Wish I'd known you were gonna do all that. I have a Mercman harness you could have just plugged into the harness at the amp to get 4-ch left/right front/rear differential-balanced straight out into a 12foot RCA run. Although your '14 may have a different plug or pin outs.
> 
> If my airport express idea works, I may do that again with OEM head unit for CD's and radio, and let the iPhone supply the lossless tunes and anything else.
> 
> ...


I am using a bitOne so Mercman is unessesary and I wanted to keep the OEM feel and function(s) of the deck, adding to the stock/stealth install.

Thanks! (it was painfull! lol)


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

brewermoe said:


> I am using a bitOne so Mercman is unessesary and I wanted to keep the OEM feel and function(s) of the deck, adding to the stock/stealth install.
> 
> Thanks! (it was painfull! lol)


Actually, what the harness does is plug in to tap the OEM head unit signal before the OEM amp, keeping the OEM head unit for stealth. This bypasses the OEM amp. From that, you get balanced signals to feed outboard DSP. Assuming of course the 9th "premium audio" is the same as the 8th Civic. But no biggie.. You got it knocked out pretty good I'd say.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I didn't have any templates so I had to make some. I used a hole saw kit to make the initial hole then a rabbit and flush trim. It took a couple of tries on some scrap pieces to finally get it then I used a piece of 1/2" plywood for a template.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Test fit:


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

The mid pod:















I cleaned up the opening and took the speaker out _before_ glueing the fabric lol


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

This is a post I need to keep under the front of the pod. Later I reinforce it so I can cut away part of it to open up the top for a nicer finish for the mid and to cut the opening for the tweeter.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

add glass:





















If your wondering why the orange tape ... it is covering the mounting point. it is a very tight fit so I didn't want to mess with it.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

some clean up


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

some sanding and filler (and a few hours)


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Still some more pics to come of more sanding and filler, camera batteries died, and that reinforced post. Hoping to get the tweeter done today. Getting a little behind in my studies so I have to fit a chapter in today as well! 

Also when I remove the other pillar I will show how to remove a nasty clip! These pillars where a real challenge to remove!

I have most of the wiring ran, just have to do the doors. Sound deading is started as well. I think I will just use two layers of material over the big holes. Seems to be more work than what it's worth for my low SPL build to get into using the MCDE or ABS covers. Interesting door speaker though, I will post pics as I do the doors.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)




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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Nice progress. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

... the top side of that post ... I still have to cut and grove this to contour ...


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

For some reason I cannot upload pics anymore ...
"Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing. ' will post in issue area ...


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Let's try this ...
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!6816&authkey=!AElGAHOOz0gUhP4&ithint=folder%2c


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Can you guys access the pics?


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## danzell (Jan 25, 2015)

I was able to see them. I like where this going!


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## danzell (Jan 25, 2015)

Question though, how do you plan on smoothing out where the baffle meets the pillar cutout?


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

danzell said:


> Question though, how do you plan on smoothing out where the baffle meets the pillar cutout?


Fiberglass and filler of course !! lol :coolgleamA: (and patience)

I still have the tweeter to go in just above the mid. I am thinking it would be like an inverted pod type thing. I am going for a similar look as the OEM tweeter pod. That post underneath threw a curve into the plan but I think with the reinforcement I will be able to cut a little lower and create some nicer curves. I felt I had to do this in two stages because of the loss of integrity of the pillar of creating such a large cut out. (and that post) 

I am still am not sure how I am going to finish the face the front of the mid, I am thinking of creating another ring and attaching the grill and fastening the speaker from the backside .... I'd have to rabbit the back so I could get a nice tight seem ...


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Tweeter Baffle
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!6850&authkey=!ABMeHfATD3QKets&ithint=folder,


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Tweeter pod prep, test fit and ready for casting!

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!6851&authkey=!AN3krY9-Jw63Buw&ithint=folder,


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I had few alterations I had to make to accommodate that attachment post. I wound up totally reworking that space in between the tweeter and the mid. It was painstaking but I am happy with the outcome. They are approximately 3" apart. First time using fiberglass and building pods .... I am hoping the next pillar will only take me a few hours!


https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!6881&authkey=!AC_gWMl_8C_KLpU&ithint=folder,

Do you guys like the linked photo's? Yes/No?


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Thanks guys for some of your tips!


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Shot from outside the passengers side


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Did some work today on replacing the OEM spare tire cover. I found 1/4" to be a little to whimsical (which is thicker than the OEM plastic cover) so I went with 1/2" and I rabbited out the overlay and rounded off the edges. May have to add a little brace under that sub too.

Also some potential layout projections ... What you guys think?
The sub is centered but looks a little off ... maybe camera angle, maybe just because one side is filled with the power cell ... 
Still intend on building a false wall so it's not so conspicuous to peering eyes when accessing the trunk ... (still trying to stick with somewhat of a stealth install)









I need some OEM Civic Si black carpet ...


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

^ call Audio Integrations. They do boxes, but he's also found a pretty good civic black carpet match for 8th gen civics at least. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

i also have a new civic coupe lx.....the trunk is not black in my car but parts express had the carpet i needed 3 yards for 21 bucks.it looks better in person i have 2 cubic feet tuned to 35htz. i went all the way across the back so no need to strengthen the spare tire cover.








inside the port is black now.
the amp "rack" is behind the seat


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

The Si is a much darker charcoal but not quite black. I actually have carpet that was supposed to match but it's closer to the LX. 

Nice design! I like how you used and shaped the space behind the sub. Simple and clean.


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## 1styearsi (Aug 13, 2012)

brewermoe said:


> The Si is a much darker charcoal but not quite black. I actually have carpet that was supposed to match but it's closer to the LX.
> 
> Nice design! I like how you used and shaped the space behind the sub. Simple and clean.


thanks im looking forward to seeing your's complete.good luck with the build.man i didn't get a SI because wanted a automatic after 25+ years of shifting and i drive a 18 wheeler every day,but i kick myself in the ass all the time for not getting a SI.in a year or 2 i'm thinking CRZ or new civic si in 2017


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Broke open the Dynamat on the weekend. Ok before any controversy on choice, this material is pricy as it is and to add shipping and import etc ... was just not very cost effective compared to what I could get locally. And for the record, I had my door open for the entire day with the sun beating down on the Dynamat while the temperature soared into the 30's and it has not _melted_ or moved as I have heard people claim! (well not yet! , lol)

I missed taking a pic of the inside but I put on a strip across the center of door the on the outside skin, and along the bottom leaving plenty of space for the water to run off below the mat. I also finished the other side of the speaker, had to steal a piece left over the from the trunk. I am not sure how you guys get it to lay so nice and flat! Not sure if this is how this stuff comes either but, my trunk kit came out of the box looking like a sun dried raisin and the door kit came some what pruned as well. I found it difficult to "iron" out. Any way here is my attempt at sound deadening ...

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7137&authkey=!AAL9JVC5i1huMCA&ithint=folder%2c

*Speaker mount not finished, it's actually just laying in there.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Some more pillar progress ...

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7138&authkey=!AF_ga72ZHnpg2m4&ithint=folder%2c

Still have some touching up to do, and of course the finish!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Wow those pillars are turning out quite as though they came from factory as such, which I mean as a compliment. They're really coming along. Yes I can see some spots but keep at it for that extra mile of refinement and you're going to have an awesome pillar job.

Nice 9th gen coupe by the way. I'm a devoted 8th gen guy but that coupe is growing on me. Might have to see if the 2.4L Si motor will squeeze into an 8th gen, though I know the 2.4L Accord motor bolts right up, but that's another topic.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Thanks Babs, that's really encouraging! I have had some trying times with this. Learning something new can sure have its moments!


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

"Gettin' outofa jam!"

I was really intimidated with doing this but it turned out to be really easy! One shop was telling me they had to remove the door, and anther said it was really tricky. Well, this is what I did:

I used a panel removal tool to pop off the plastic grommet, pushed out the grommet from inside the door, made the grommet as straight as I could and fished it through with a long allen key ....Same on both sides but my hand barley barley fit under the dash to fish out the wire.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7155&authkey=!AGO6b1AQHXNINLM&ithint=folder%2c

Hope this helps someone!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Cool.. Believe it or not, I used thick weedeater blade wire (the stiff plastic stuff) since I had a bunch of it, and wire lube works like a charm. But wow living through getting that big boot back into place on both the car and door side in my 8th sedan still gives me nightmares.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Babs said:


> Cool.. Believe it or not, I used thick weedeater blade wire (the stiff plastic stuff) since I had a bunch of it, and wire lube works like a charm. But wow living through getting that big boot back into place on both the car and door side in my 8th sedan still gives me nightmares.


Wow! That's a great idea!

It actually only took me about 15 mins a side! I think I had pre-mares! lol


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

brewermoe said:


> Wow! That's a great idea!
> 
> It actually only took me about 15 mins a side! I think I had pre-mares! lol


Different door. You won the easy-door lottery.


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## eXistence (Aug 5, 2015)

sweet


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## toylocost (Jul 4, 2011)

Nice! The weedeater wire is a great idea. I've always used bailing wire, or safety wire. I've learned that spraying a little WD-40 makes it a lot easier, plus WD-40 dries after a while and won't hang around in the harness.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I was actually going to try a little dishsoap, but it must have bee my lucky day bc it went through so smoothly .... at least the WD-40 won't lead to rust!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

toylocost said:


> Nice! The weedeater wire is a great idea. I've always used bailing wire, or safety wire. I've learned that spraying a little WD-40 makes it a lot easier, plus WD-40 dries after a while and won't hang around in the harness.





brewermoe said:


> I was actually going to try a little dishsoap, but it must have bee my lucky day bc it went through so smoothly .... at least the WD-40 won't lead to rust!


This stuff:








Shop IDEAL 32-fl oz Clear Wire Pulling Lubricant at Lowes.com
A bottle will last you forever.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Getting a little restless with the install, I decided I wanted to hear how the doors sounded so I connected the AV5.1 and fired up the door speakers ..... I kept it light because I haven't done any calculations and measurements so I was only at about 75% gain, crossed at 80 ...

.... simply amazing! The midbass was very surprising for just 140W(x2) and two 6 and halfs! ... ok, that just got me going ... in went the sub .... one 12, 600W ... very impressive without the processor or any tuning, just the active crossover on the amp!! AND ... the only thing I could hear rattle was the spoiler on one side ... might just be the wire harness ...
I was really impressed how high the stage was with only the door speakers and the sub. So clear and crisp. Have a slight pop when the amp turns off but I kind of expected something like that with the quick hook up!


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Some more Pillar work:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7194&authkey=!AHzC6Vr5bEYBo6k&ithint=folder%2c

I used threaded tees to mount the mids from the back then filled with layers of body filler to cover the tee's and create the shape. Hope it holds and lasts! Not sure yet if I am going to cover the backside of the grill with grill cloth for a more factory look. Still some more sanding to do!

I had an incident with the paint, when I sprayed I got alligator skin in a few areas, not sure what caused this but it looked really cool! If I can replicate it that would be a really nice finish!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

That's gonna turn out pretty special I think 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

It's been quite the challenge! That raised second tier dash, the mounting post and the airbag really made it a tight fit! Now to match the right pillar ...

Hoping to get a "rough draft" listening in tonight.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

I connected the bitOne, AV5.1 and threw in the Shurkin 800. I had some issues with the bit not saving the config. I discovered it needs to be run as administrator or in a profile that has admin rights. Every time I shut off the car it would go through initialization again, even though I finalized the setting. Saves now.

With just a basic set-up, de-eq and speaker config I was up and running. Wow! I haven't even started tweaking and it sounds amazing! Gains are down (75%), crossover points are rough, no eq, no time alignment ... Wow! The mid bass comin outta the doors is astounding! I still haven't done the big 3 yet either! To think it sounds this good with still so much to gain .. (ha nice pun)

I have one issue I am working through ... when I turn off the ignition I get a big thump. I didn't have it with only the AV connected. Did some research and am thinking it is from the remote feed. I tried a couple different resisters as suggested in line,(series) no success. Should it be connected in parallel maybe? Which seems to make some sense. I relocated the remote lead to the AV from the bit remote out and connected to the deck. Thump gone, but now I have a small sparking snap sound when you turn off the car. Any thoughts? The 1K resistor across the remote lead? (in parallel)


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Another little issue I had was the with the AV. I was unable to change the menu selections while it was connected to the bit and I had no output. I had to disconnect it from the bit and setup the config, once saved I re connected it. 

AV\5
A+B channels ST 1|2 and 3|4
C channel 8


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Still a couple blemishes, I'll fix it in the spring after a season of shifting ...


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Well alrighty then!


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)




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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Do you think I kept an OEM look?
I was thinking of removing the logo's to conceal the brand, again for an OEM look.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I think so.. Just enough there to see she ain't stock, but it's well done enough to look OEM in shape somewhat. I dig it. About the only way to really OEM those drivers would be to grill over the tweet, which I wouldn't do, and do a tighter grill to hide the mid, which I would also not do.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Did some work on the amp rack on the weekend. Still much to do ....

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7311&authkey=!AHxzMjlIGP-Ybw8&ithint=folder%2c


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

A little pillar comparison, OEM vs fab:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7318&authkey=!ACPSZxj2uDhS9x4&ithint=folder%2c


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Nice! My wife informed me a package arrived today.. Oh boy! Spare 8th Si Sedan A-pillars to hack up.. Woo whoo!! Let the fun begin.


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Babs said:


> Nice! My wife informed me a package arrived today.. Oh boy! Spare 8th Si Sedan A-pillars to hack up.. Woo whoo!! Let the fun begin.



Thanks! Still lots to do .... it seems never ending !!! lol

Where did you find that ??? I want one to try this Kent stuff, its really light and sticks to everything. Dries likes a plastic bumper! Sands nice too. Not sure how hard/rigid it gets adding multiple layers.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Those were from a part out of an Si that got crunched on a fb 8th civic page. I gotta get some glassing supplies together and see if I can shoehorn these little critters in there.









Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

brewermoe said:


> Did some work on the amp rack on the weekend. Still much to do ....
> 
> https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E6C7B85956D4AE48!7311&authkey=!AHxzMjlIGP-Ybw8&ithint=folder%2c


Was just cruising and took a closer look here.. Nice use of the spare bolt for a ground. 

Any updates?


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## brewermoe (Apr 11, 2015)

Babs said:


> Was just cruising and took a closer look here.. Nice use of the spare bolt for a ground.
> 
> Any updates?


lol Thanks Babs

Yeah, I didn't want to drill any holes, and it is double nutted so it won't come loose. The plan was to use that post as a clamp down as well for the amp rack, again, no drilling. I did continuity tests from various places in the trunk and that had the lowest resistance, even better than the factory ground used for the lights. Seemed like the perfect place! lol 
I can't believe how it sounds! I quite often find myself getting lost in the music ... I can hear every instrument so clear! And I don't even notice how loud it really is! I can't even fathom the thought of systems that are far superior to mine on how that would sound!

The weather has put a damper on the progress. I rushed a carpet job on the box and modded the OEM floor panel for a temp finish. I'll post some pics soon. Come spring I am hoping to continue with the initial plan and design I had for the amp rack and trunk. Even the pillars didn't quite get the final finishing touches. The "Air Bag" plaque still has tape covering it! Ooops 

I am having issues with the bitOne, I do have a post on here, that I cannot figure out, other than it's defective. The store has a replacement for me, headed there this weekend ...


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

brewermoe said:


> I did continuity tests from various places in the trunk and that had the lowest resistance, even better than the factory ground used for the lights.


No kidding! hmmmm I still have a plate I built for attaching there. Might rethink losing the tire and going clean under the trunk again if there's a huge ring terminal in the bin that might fit there. I used a star-ground point behind the driver-side rear seat side panel that works great though, but still need to do the amp rack nicely. It's either there, or mounted to board behind the seat.


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## renzr (Nov 25, 2015)

Lookin great


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