# ZeroDrift's 1988 All Trac: Basic Audio on a Budget!



## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

*Welcome to my mini build thread!*

*Goals of this build is to have a balanced sound stage with some bargain hunting. Nothing horribly complicated, but simple sound that is easy on the ears!*

The car is an 1988 Toyota Celica Alltrac. For those who are not familiar with these cars, they were made in limited production numbers to allow Toyota to compete in the WRC back in the day. WRC regulations forced automakers to sell the cars that they were to compete with. As such, the little Alltrac comes with a 2.0L turbocharged engine and 4wd! They were horribly overpriced when new and were typically loaded with interesting and desirable features! 

*Quick details:*
Front speaker size: Factory = 3.5" 
Front speaker notes: Mounted in the dash facing downwards.
Rear speaker size: Factory = 4"
Rear speaker notes: Mounted behind rear strut mounts facing up.
All speakers have heavy plastic enclosures from the factory.
DB at idle: ~48db
DB at 70 mph: ~60db

Here are some pictures of what I have to work with. Needs some misc rattles sorted out, but I think it has some potential for a decent audio setup!






































The plan is to utilize the spare tire area for the 5 channel amp and a power inverter. The subwoofer will be mounted on its side in the corner. Not sure which one just yet, but the plan is to make an MDF and fiberglass enclosure for this. 


















*What I have to install:*


*CD player:* Kenwood kdc-bt948hd








*Front Speakers:* Alpine spx-107r








*Rear Speakers:* Eclipse SP5000 Old and in need of some TLC. May replace em...

*To take care of the lower frequencies, an 8" JBL GTO sub*.








*
Amp:* Precision Power PPI S580.5


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Rear speaker enclosure:














































As you can see this is a fairly interesting enclosure! Its a ported unit made by FujitsuTen. Should need some modifications to fit a larger speaker.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

More information and potential plans for the rear speaker enclosure.

-Port tube length is 3.5".
-Nominal speaker mounting diameter: 4 (1/8)"
-Speaker mounting depth (max): 2"
-Volume of the enclosure: 95 OZ

To add some mass to the enclosure I plan to rough sand the inside and outside and coat it with truck bedliner. 

At this point in time I am unsure if the Eclipse speakers are going to fit the bill with this. The can fit with the right trimming on the mounting area but there is such little area for the screws to attach that it may be best to find some other speaker here.

*Any advice for a speaker to fit this enclosure?*


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

After searching around and some recommendations about a full range/coaxial I am looking into something like this:

Vifa NE123W-04 4" Full Range Woofer 264-1072









Any thoughts?


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Finally removed the rest of the speaker pods and took some measurements:

*Front Drivers:*

Volume: 44oz (79.4 cubic inches)
Speaker mounting diameter: 104mm (4.0945”)
Speaker nominal diameter: 77.8mm (3.063”)
Speaker nominal depth: 88.3mm (3.4764”)
Passive mounting diameter:	119mm (4.685”)
Passive nominal diameter:	106.2mm	(4.1511”)
Passive nominal depth: 8.18mm at edge, 67.24mm at center
 
*Front Passenger:*

Volume: 50oz (90.2 cubic inches)
Speaker mounting diameter:	104mm (4.0945”)
Speaker nominal diameter:	77.8mm (3.063”)
Speaker nominal depth: 139mm (5.4724”)
Passive mounting diameter:	119mm (4.685”)
Passive nominal diameter:	106.2mm (4.1511”)
Passive nominal depth: 61mm (2.4016”)
 
*Rear Drivers:*

Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
Speaker mounting diameter:	119mm (4.685”)
Speaker nominal diameter:	109.27mm (4.302”)
Speaker nominal depth: 52.15mm (2.0531”)
Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)
 
*Rear Passenger:*

Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
Speaker mounting diameter:	119mm (4.685”)
Speaker nominal diameter:	109.27mm (4.302”)
Speaker nominal depth: 52.15 (2.0531”)
Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Photos:


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## brackac (May 2, 2011)

Big fan of the All-Trac, owned a 92 and a regular 88 Celica. Look forward to seeing your progress.


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## jonson (Jul 21, 2009)

nice work, had a red 165 back in the day, finally rusted out and broke my heart.. looking forward to the build

jon


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Alright! Now I have some actual numbers to work with! Unfortunately, my concerns are immediately validated. The front enclosures are too small for the 4" drivers of the Alpine SPX-107R.

Per Alpine's sealed recommendations these need anywhere from .07ft^3 to .14ft^3. The front enclosures are .052ft^3 at the largest. So not ideal at all.

It seems that the Alpine drivers are a much better fit for the rear. The rear enclosures are .0992ft^3, which is within the acceptable range. However this means the enclosures will need some changes as Alpine states that this range is for a sealed enclosure. So I will make a block off plate for the port on the rear enclosure.

*This leaves me with a void in the front sound stage. I know of very few quality drivers that will be acceptable in this size range. At this point in time I am open for suggestions on what to do. Please help! *


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

brackac said:


> Big fan of the All-Trac, owned a 92 and a regular 88 Celica. Look forward to seeing your progress.


Thanks! They are good little cars. I just purchased it and am going through to catch any rust spots before they get worse. Already repaired a few small holes in the spare tire well!



jonson said:


> nice work, had a red 165 back in the day, finally rusted out and broke my heart.. looking forward to the build
> 
> jon


Sorry to hear about the car. These things really needed better rust-proofing from the factory! Many of them are rust buckets these days! I am hoping to come up with a great sound system! All of my old audio builds are either consisted of infinity kappa's or some Alpine Type-R's. I want to go above and beyond with this build.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

In an effort to try to solve my issue, I started searching around on PartsExpress. 

*I am thinking of building a 3 component system using a woofer in the speaker enclosure and placing a mid in the door with a tweeter in the sail panel. I may be getting ahead of myself here, but I'll make an attempt and hope to get some input on my plan.*

*Woofer:* Dayton Audio RS100T-8 4" Reference Woofer Truncated Frame
Dayton Audio RS100T-8 4" Reference Woofer Truncated Frame 295-338









While it physically fits into the enclosures, but am unsure if I should run this in a sealed or ported enclosure. Using the speaker box designer program online (Link) and have a quick question regarding the usage. It states that you use the effective cone diameter for a ported enclosure. Is this the effective cone diameter abbreviation: VCdia?


*Mid:*
I'm having trouble figuring what mid to use, but thinking this may work:
Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm 295-380









Should be fairly easy to mount this into the door in its own enclosure.

*Tweeter:*
While I don't have much experience in this department I do have a few preferences from past experiences. I've had some metal foil tweeters and those were much too harsh to enjoy. What I have had in a car that I enjoyed is Alpine's silk dome tweeters. Typically very warm and mellow in nature and easy on the ears.

Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Truncated Tweeter
Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Truncated Tweeter 275-076









So far I'd be looking at $140 for the drivers alone. Just need a pair of crossovers.

*
I would need to sort out a crossover and figure out what is the best way to wire these to achieve proper ohm rating for the amp. Of course this is assuming that this is worth attempting in the first place...*


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I would skip the dash mount altogether and just do the a 2-way set in the door.


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

All-Trac <3. Off-topic here, but I wish Toyota built interesting cars again like they did in the mid-to-late 80's. Maybe the upcoming FR-S will be a resurgance. In 1988 Toyota had: Supra, MR-2, Celica, FX-16 GTS, and the AE86 Corolla. Good luck with the install, I will be watching this one. BTW, post more pics of the car, I would love to see it.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> I would skip the dash mount altogether and just do the a 2-way set in the door.


I take it you mean to install the Alpines in the door?



slowsedan01 said:


> All-Trac <3. Off-topic here, but I wish Toyota built interesting cars again like they did in the mid-to-late 80's. Maybe the upcoming FR-S will be a resurgance. In 1988 Toyota had: Supra, MR-2, Celica, FX-16 GTS, and the AE86 Corolla. Good luck with the install, I will be watching this one. BTW, post more pics of the car, I would love to see it.


Thanks! I agree about Toyota producing such a variety of interesting cars again. This, combined with every other manufacture offering fun and sporty cars is why I love the 80's gen cars. We had the Mitsubishi Starion/Conquest, RX7, Grand Nationals, Mazda GTX, Mazda 626 turbo, Nissan's offerings, what you listed, and more... 

Here are a few more pictures of when the car was clean:



















Here I tried to fit my winter rims from my Subaru... Didn't fit since the tires rub against the strut...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Not the Alpines, but a 6.5" set, yes.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Not the Alpines, but a 6.5" set, yes.



Alright! Thanks for the advice. Quick question: If box volume is limited, is it better to fit a driver to the space available or just go with a 6.5" driver regardless of available space??

Reason I ask is a smaller driver, say a 5.25" Alpine SPX137R would be a much easier fit (regarding enclosure volume) than their 6.5" offering. The 5.25" recommended volume range is 2-5 liters, while the 6.5" is 9-20 liters. I am thinking of using the door's storage pocket (part of it) to form an enclosure for the driver. Also, I'm not set on the Alpines, I just have the data right in front of me.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

After taking some measurements of the door-I'm leaning against mounting anything in the door for the moment. Building a cheap/fast enclosure that either will destroy the door card or force the driver(s) into the passenger compartment is just not acceptable. Going to do this the right way and design something proper. The lower door pocket can be removed from the rest of the door card, so it should be possible to rebuild the entire lower section w/o destroying the door/door card. Time will tell!

So the plan at the moment is to do this build in stages. 
*Phase 1: Short Term*
Install a 4" full range driver combined with a 4" woofer in the stock enclosures up front. Tweeter most likely mounted in the A-pillar. Not the best setup, but good enough for a few weeks to a month. Leaning towards Dayton Audio speakers as they are decent value (hopefully.)

*Phase 2: Long Term*
Leave the 4" full range speaker in the front enclosures and move the woofer to a custom enclosure in the door. I'll either up-size the woofer to a single 5.25" in the door or combine the 4" with the 5.25" woofer to the door pod. No change to the tweeter most likely. Should opt for a 3 way crossover for this setup.

The reason for 2 phases is time and resources. Should start working on the enclosure shortly, but I will take my time to build these right. Having never build a door pod that matches factory trim/fit and finish is very new to me, so that will be a learning process. Phase 1 is simply to get something installed so I can listen to some music. 

When progress is made on the speaker pods I hope to get plenty of input! I've only ever build PVC speaker enclosures that were functional, but hideous. I want these enclosures to match/exceed the fit and finish of the interior while being very functional.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

I've started constructing the main signal/power harness. In an effort to use parts I have from past builds, some 12 year old 4 channel Monster RCA's and some other 2 channel car RCA will be used. 

*Few questions:*
Any issue running 8ga power wire for this build? 

Any concerns to run the power cable and amp power signal wire with the rest of the RCA's?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

If it's short term, then using the OEM locations is fine. If you can't make a door pod work, I'd do kick panels.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Never really considered kick panels, but I'm sure I can make the door pod with some time.

Figure I'd post up the first step in bringing the OEM enclosures up to par.

*Step 1: Increase mass.* I'm hoping that the very rough texture will help break up standing waves while increasing the mass. Step 2 will involve a smoother lining to the exterior. More to come on that later.








Note that the ports will be blocked at the top to make this a sealed enclosure.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Parts are starting to trickle in. Decided to include the DC-AC converter in the build, so I'll be needing a heaver gauge of (+) wire. Thinking of making the 8ga wire an extended ground and routing the (+) wire elsewhere in the chassis.

Also waiting on inexpensive front speakers and wire management at the moment. 










Upon closer inspection, the crossover has some damage from shipping... Going to be contacting Alpine for service on this.













































This harness should clean up nicely before install.









Closer look at the internal speaker enclosure work.



























Enough for now.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Since I'm about to do a road trip I've decided to rush this at a sub-par level of work. All the wire routing that I'm about to do will be re-done once I return from my trip. Pictures of the components being installed in the car will wait till I'm tearing everything apart to be re-done. I hate doing things this way, but a fast approaching deadline leaves little choice.

In the meantime here are a few pictures of the front enclosures completed.





































I am considering filling the blank woofer cone with epoxy to make it a solid unit. Going to test it this way first though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Any reason you used the RS-100 8 Ohm?


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

quality_sound said:


> Any reason you used the RS-100 8 Ohm?


Honestly it was an ordering mistake. Since time is short I figure it'll have to do for now. The plans for a door pod will work out very well so I'll be able to mount a shallow 5" or possibly 6" driver in it. This will either be added to the setup, or perhaps I'll figure something else around the house to do with these.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Here is some quick progress for today. Once I have everything in place I will be re-making the mounting setup to be as light as possible. No reason to have a bunch of extra weight if you don't have to. 

Whats left:

Pick up my riv-nut insert tool and mount the brackets to keep the assembly in place.
Attatch speaker wires to amp.
Install grommet in firewall after rust proofing, then route power wire.
Make a false floor to keep everything hidden and protected.





































And here is a picture of the amp's guts.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Everything is wired and working for the trip! No crossovers or tweeters for the time being. Suffice to say, the sounds is pretty mediocre at best. Once I return from Hawaii, I'll be working on the finishing touches! Hopefully I'll be able to get the door pods made as well as the sub enclosure! 

More to come later on- Stay tuned!


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

I'm back from Hawaii and have plans to finish up this install! More to come in the near future!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Any thoughts on doing an aperiodic setup using the factory enclosures? 
I haven't worked on one of those in forever, I forgot about the passive radiators in the factory enclosures.

The 80's were an interesting time for cars....once we got over all the emissions crap. LOL

Jay


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> Any thoughts on doing an aperiodic setup using the factory enclosures?
> I haven't worked on one of those in forever, I forgot about the passive radiators in the factory enclosures.
> 
> The 80's were an interesting time for cars....once we got over all the emissions crap. LOL
> ...


Never have heard of such enclosures! I've been contemplating the removal of the passive drivers with a plate of aluminum or something. Any more insights into what you had in mind?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Aperiodic Loudspeaker Enclosure Design

Try searching or googling it for more info. 

Basically, you "tune" the vent with varying amounts of fiberglass batting to simulate a larger enclosure than it really is.

Jay


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Making some progress with this build. 

First attempt at a sail panel. Didn't work quite the way I wanted so I'll be ordering some replacements to do this right.
































































I used a shirt fabric for this, but chose something rather thick. This may be fine, but the glue I chose was a gel and didn't flow into the fabric as I had hoped. Next time I'll use some CA glue and possibly a thinner shirt material that will contour more easily.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Test fit the sail panels and my assumptions about ideal aiming were very far off... As it stands the tweeters would be aiming to the occupants stomachs rather than 'ear level'. Need to be more careful with the aiming when remaking these.




















Now then- Is there another tweeter that is more ideal than the little Alpines for this application? I've seen many other build threads praising some Vifa tweeter like this: 








Not really sure what model people are using and if it is a step up from the Alpines. Any input would be appreciated!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Those are ring radiator tweeters. Alpine used some in the SPX-Pro's, IIRC...and maybe in the Flagship stuff. Vifa makes a bunch of different kinds...I picked mine up on Parts Express (haven't used them yet), but from everything I've read, they work best on axis. 

I will be using my set in my new car.

Probably sticking with my 3" Tang Band widebanders and 7" Dayton Midbasses.

If you search "ring radiator tweeter" on Google or on the forum, you should find more info. Alot of people are using different variations of them.

Jay


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Thinking about the overall balance of my audio setup and I will be selling the Alpine SPX-137r speaker set and the Dayton 4" full range speakers in the near future.



*Front setup:*
Sail Panels: Vifa OT19NC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm
Vifa OT19NC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm 264-1122









In the enclosures: Tang Band W3-1876S 3" Mini Subwoofer
Tang Band W3-1876S 3" Mini Subwoofer 264-909









*-OR-*

In custom door pods: Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm 295-372









*Rear setup:*
In the rear enclosures: Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midbass Driver
Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midbass Driver 264-878









In a custom enclosure: JBL Grand Touring GTO804 8" Car Subwoofer











What I am unsure about is which speaker setup configuration up front will be the most useful. From the frequency ranges on both the Dayton 6" woofer and the Tang Band W3 woofer should fit with the tweeter and cover useable audible ranges. But this brings up the question of simplicity of installation compared to function of a 6" mid-bass. 

Am I better off ditching the OEM enclosure with the mini woofer and using the Dayton mid-bass, or is the mini Tang Band woofer in the OEM enclosure enough to fill in the front sound stage? Or is it worth keeping the OEM enclosure in tact and getting a different woofer in the doors and running a 3 way setup?


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## Sean Morrison (May 27, 2007)

Simpler is better in my opinion as long as it sounds good. I would heavily lean towards using a braxial type setup in the doors, something like the CDT eurosports or Boston Pros with the tweeter bridge. If you pick up some of JL audio's 8" subwoofer grills and cover them in grill cloth, they will cover them up and look relatively factory. Were you planning on running the Dayton's actively?


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Sean Morrison said:


> Simpler is better in my opinion as long as it sounds good. I would heavily lean towards using a braxial type setup in the doors, something like the CDT eurosports or Boston Pros with the tweeter bridge. If you pick up some of JL audio's 8" subwoofer grills and cover them in grill cloth, they will cover them up and look relatively factory. Were you planning on running the Dayton's actively?


I agree with the simple option. But using the OEM pods as a mid are the most simple option I have. I know that the Dayton's will be better as mids, but by how much? Door pods are something that I've never attempted before and I'd hate to ruin the good condition door cards messing around with them.

How would one setup the front sound stage as active? The amp I have has the capability from what I've been told, but honestly I've never really heard of doing this. The last audio work I've done was back in the early 2000's and even then it was basic Alpine components and a V12 4 channel amp.


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## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

love the PPI


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## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

nice


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Thanks for the compliment!

Going to be working on the sub enclosure soon. In the meantime, here are some pictures from the other day!


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Made some progress on the tweeter housings that were molded over the sail panels. Going to be trimming and adding some filler to these and then either plasti-dip spray paint or if I can get vinyl to contour to the complex shape perhaps some of that.


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

very nice car man i love the 80s looks clean keep up the good work man


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## ozone (Nov 27, 2011)

slowsedan01 said:


> All-Trac <3. Off-topic here, but I wish Toyota built interesting cars again like they did in the mid-to-late 80's. Maybe the upcoming FR-S will be a resurgance. In 1988 Toyota had: Supra, MR-2, Celica, FX-16 GTS, and the AE86 Corolla. Good luck with the install, I will be watching this one. BTW, post more pics of the car, I would love to see it.


<begin hijack>
I agree with what you said here except one small error. The 1988 Corolla was actually an AE92, not the popular rear wheel drive AE86. I know because I have a 1988 Corolla GT-S that I am dropping a V6 into and I am part way done with making my own speaker boxes. I plan to post my own build here, when I get done with all of the boxes, so people can see the whole thing and not wait for updates all of the time.

You can see everything now however at ozone_home.

Thanks for listening and . . . sorry.

</end hijack>


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Making progress on the tweeter pods. I did a few coats of sand-able primer to better see the low and high spots on the surfaces. So far I'm quite happy on how they are turning out- especially for my first time making a tweeter pod!

Now before I finish the installation of these, should I be concearned when going to an active front sound stage with 4 ohm Alpine Type-X tweeters and 8 ohm Dayton 'mids'? I don't know much about mixing and matching anything when it comes to active setups. Should I change the 8 ohm speaker to a 4 ohm?

Anyways on the pictures:
































































Where I left off:










Decided to weigh the heavier one out of curiosities sake.









Onto other news- honestly I feel a little daunted working with fiberglass. I've worked on some very basic 'brackets' and such in the past, but when it comes to a rigid sub enlosure- I am not sure of myself. First off, I can't seem to make any tape stick to the interior trim well enough. Secondly I seem to be a little inexperienced with resins and various methods to make the structure rigid enough to support the small 8" JBL sub.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

After putting on a coat of Plasti-dip I found that the inner surfaces still need a fair amount of sanding. I find the complex shapes makes this quite a difficult feat. Any tips to make the surface smooth enough to coat?


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Finished the tweeter pods. Not 100% perfect, but its close enough for now. Still have to install them and change the front sound stage to active.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Made progress on the audio project recently. 

First attempt at a sub enclosure. It is operational for the moment but am waiting for some black auto carpet and some misc items such as a grill in the mail. I hope to finish this next weekend if everything goes as planned. 

The rear section I used fiberglass to provide clearance for the magnet structure; however that didn't work out as planned. As it is now the speaker hits the rear by about 1/2", and the plan will be to add a front spacer. I picked up a sheet of 3/4" MDF and will try to borrow a router to recess the speaker and grill to sit flush with the carpet.


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## acr (Mar 19, 2008)

cool build, interested to see how it turns out. The tweeter pods might be a good candidate for a textured finish since the shape is weird and hard to sand to a perfect finish.


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## burakol (Apr 25, 2008)

just got myself an st162 gts (89 celica gts) and hoping to resurrect this build to get some nice ideas in tim for my own build...


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Thread resurrection! I have made some progress on this build but have decided to change a few things. I'm going with a 10" slim sub-woofer in the rear, and am still planning to get ~6" mids up front.

Tweeter pods are finished and installed, but I have yet to change the setup to active as my time has been consumed by my home business. Once I have some time to work I this I will update this thread more frequently.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Figure its time to post the enclosure since its been carpeted. Need to take a picture of it when its installed still. 

Also, I need to tweak the tweeter pods as they cannot be installed in the typical fashion due to the size of the pod. Any input on how to attach the tweeter pod to the rubber backing would be much appreciated.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)




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## burakol (Apr 25, 2008)

cool build! you gave me an idea on where to put my subs... my plan is to mock up a false floor so I can mount the amp in the hatch but still have access to the spare tire... for the front component, i think i will take off the front pocket and build some pods for the mids... btw, when you bought your all-trac, did you have issues with dimming/flickering lights?


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

Cool build, cool car. Tagging this thread for weekend reading


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

Thanks for the kind words! The car is currently under the knife as it blew a head gasket on Christmas Eve. I won't be doing much audio wise, but will be routing a power cable through the main harness as I install the standalone engine management. If you are curious, you can follow progress on Alltrac.net: AllTrac.net • View topic - ZeroDrift's 1988 All Trac. Anyone have a replacement block?


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

burakol said:


> cool build! you gave me an idea on where to put my subs... my plan is to mock up a false floor so I can mount the amp in the hatch but still have access to the spare tire... for the front component, i think i will take off the front pocket and build some pods for the mids... btw, when you bought your all-trac, did you have issues with dimming/flickering lights?



The biggest issue with these old cars is age, neglect and old electronics. I was fortunate enough to get one in good shape minus the budget engine build. The interior electrical system was in good shape and has been problem free, minutes a short I caused in the gauge cluster.


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## burakol (Apr 25, 2008)

ZeroDrift said:


> The biggest issue with these old cars is age, neglect and old electronics. I was fortunate enough to get one in good shape minus the budget engine build. The interior electrical system was in good shape and has been problem free, minutes a short I caused in the gauge cluster.


until i resolve some of my concerns wih the flickering lights i wont start my build. weird cuz my battery is holding charge and the alt is giving charge. i think you are very fortunate that your body and paint is pretty decent. though mine is not a rust bukcet yet, forget about my paint...


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

burakol said:


> until i resolve some of my concerns wih the flickering lights i wont start my build. weird cuz my battery is holding charge and the alt is giving charge. i think you are very fortunate that your body and paint is pretty decent. though mine is not a rust bukcet yet, forget about my paint...


Check the main fuse. The alternator power cable leads to the fusebox and runs through a high heat area. I would imagine you have some resistance in there or a partially frayed wire. Otherwise you may have to start looking though individual circuits to find faults.


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## Datsubishi (Jan 9, 2012)

Sub'd for a sweet car and some interesting possibilities. I love almost any 70's-80's nap cars. I'd like to see some experimentation with those factory PR's in the front and those mini subs. But it's not my money. I'd say try those rear enclosures ported before you seal 'em up. Too bad theyre in the rear. I've found that some factory ported boxes react well to some reinforcement and a nice power/speaker combo.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

The rear speaker pods can be quickly changed to a ported setup with a few screws and a removable block off plate. I'd be hesitant to remove them as the speakers don't have much in the x-max department and I figured they would sound a little more crisp as calculations were spot on for a sealed enclosure. I will be mixing up the sound stage up front in the future as I've had some difficulties with my tweeter pods. Mounting them is impossible if I make use of the upper 'plug', so I'm going to have to sort out something else to keep em secure. Dayton also has another nice speaker that will fit up front and is very comparable to the mini sub. Just gotta wait on everything audio related until I sort out the new engine. 

Because everyone likes pictures:


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## burakol (Apr 25, 2008)

ZeroDrift said:


> Check the main fuse. The alternator power cable leads to the fusebox and runs through a high heat area. I would imagine you have some resistance in there or a partially frayed wire. Otherwise you may have to start looking though individual circuits to find faults.


Will do... another area that I will look into is that the PO had previsouly installed some sound equipment and just disconnected the equipment leaving all the wirings in the car... i need to see if any of those wirings is at fault... 

otherwise, car is mechanically sound....

BTW, how big is your sub box? I already have some gears in my possession and I'm planning on using a 12inch IDQ and some 6.5 DLS for the comps... do you think i have any luck using those given the limited space?


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

This car reminds me of a 88 XR4TI that I worked on, same speaker locations


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

burakol said:


> Will do... another area that I will look into is that the PO had previsouly installed some sound equipment and just disconnected the equipment leaving all the wirings in the car... i need to see if any of those wirings is at fault...
> 
> otherwise, car is mechanically sound....
> 
> BTW, how big is your sub box? I already have some gears in my possession and I'm planning on using a 12inch IDQ and some 6.5 DLS for the comps... do you think i have any luck using those given the limited space?


The enclosure is not very deep honestly. I could fit a shallow 10" sub if I wanted to. The 6.5" speakers won't fit anywhere without modifications, however the rear speaker pods can be modified. Take the top cover off and replace it with MDF and of course a speaker hole to suit.

You could modify the front door pods to fit a decent sized speaker. Would be a project though! I've been holding off on that as that area is at high risk of passengers damaging it. 



Sine Swept said:


> This car reminds me of a 88 XR4TI that I worked on, same speaker locations


I remember those cars! Back when I used to autocross there was always a few of them participating.


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

A friend of friend called me up and asked for a simple install in his car. I used old school 5.25 Kicker components (they also install as a 2 way) in fronts and in rear as a coaxial. I built up a board to hide all the wiring, where I placed all 4 xovers and mounted 2 amps and fastened to the seat back using factory bolts/locations. The headunit was an old Eclipse - it amazed me at how great the tuner picked up radio stations. The speaker locations are odd, but the car sounded great.


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

Now that I have had some time to read the thread, I will give some feedback, in no particular order: 

1. I am curious what frequency that PR in the front enclosure is "tuned" to. Basically, that enclosure will function very similar to a "ported" enclosure, just without a port. If I had to guess based on playing with the Bose enclosures that are similar size/design, I would say the tuning is probably 65-85Hz, maybe a little higher. Knowing that internal volume and "guessing" at the tuning, I would use winISD to play with some different speakers in that "ported enclosure" and see what looks best on the low end. 

2. What didn't you like about the RS100 in that box? Not enough low end? Just a bad tune? I would imagine it would mate better to the tweeter than any of the other "mini-sub" style would, i.e. it would sound better in the midrange frequencies. 

3. Don't forget this little guy: Dayton Audio ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm 290-212 They do great things in smallish ported boxes. They go low, and actually don't sound too bad in the midrange either. I have a NIB pair that I could sell, or you can buy new if you prefer that. I used a pair in the Bose ported enclosures in my 300zx with great results. Throw them in your winISD model and see how they do. 

4. The enclosure for the JBL GTO looks great! Good work. 

That tweeter crosses pretty low, but I would be careful running the 3" mini-sub that you posted up that high. I would interested to see how it sounds in the midrange.


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## justinreinke (May 13, 2010)

Sweet car! Where in CO are you? Who's doing the engine work and what are your plans? I saw that you are doing a stand alone so I am guessing some upgrades are in order. Lots of potential in those all-trac Celicas. Too bad they don't make many special homoligation cars anymore. All of them were cool.


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## ZeroDrift (Feb 9, 2012)

94VG30DE said:


> Now that I have had some time to read the thread, I will give some feedback, in no particular order:
> 
> 1. I am curious what frequency that PR in the front enclosure is "tuned" to. Basically, that enclosure will function very similar to a "ported" enclosure, just without a port. If I had to guess based on playing with the Bose enclosures that are similar size/design, I would say the tuning is probably 65-85Hz, maybe a little higher. Knowing that internal volume and "guessing" at the tuning, I would use winISD to play with some different speakers in that "ported enclosure" and see what looks best on the low end.
> 
> ...


Made some adjustments to the signal on the front speakers and they are better than before. Honestly I need to get the tweeters going 100% of the time before I consider changing the front sound stage. That Dayton is the other speaker I have been considering. As for the tuning up front, nothing was ideal when I ran my initial calculations. I'll have to mess around with this again later on.

As for the sub, it came out rather well! I need to verify that the sub is sealed well as its currently only sealed with the carpet itself. 



justinreinke said:


> Sweet car! Where in CO are you? Who's doing the engine work and what are your plans? I saw that you are doing a stand alone so I am guessing some upgrades are in order. Lots of potential in those all-trac Celicas. Too bad they don't make many special homoligation cars anymore. All of them were cool.



I'm down in Alamosa. I'm doing the engine work and having ASF Machine take care of the machining. This sort of a build is nothing new to me, but I will be having a steep learning curve wiring in the new engine management system. Honestly I've not built a wiring harness from scratch, nor have I done away with a distributor in favor of coil packs. Build thread is here: AllTrac.net • View topic - ZeroDrift's 1988 All Trac. Anyone have a replacement block?

Cheers!


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