# Car alarm install - Door locks



## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

so im in the final stages of wiring my alarm in but have run into a few problems. I need a relay for my door locks but i have no clue what one to get or how to wire it. I know there are some experts on relays here.
Please dont link me to the bcae website because i have read that website several times. 

so here is the issue i have two wires for my locks, of course. and my pink/white wire is (+) when the doors unlock and the pink/green wire is (-). when they lock it is vise versa (pink/white is (-) and pink/green is (+).

I need some help to wire a relay to be triggered by a single wire when the wire is given a (+) pulse or a (-) pulse to give the corresponding voltage to the correct wire.

i think i need a dpst or dpdt relay...but it still doesnt make much sense to me haha.


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## Soloact (Sep 13, 2008)

yr. and make of car would be ...helpful... 
And make/model# of alarm would also be helpful
Here,try this...http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/doorlocks.asp


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Soloact said:


> yr. and make of car would be ...helpful...
> And make/model# of alarm would also be helpful
> Here,try this...Automotive Power Door Lock Types, Determining Switch Types


The car is a 1994 mercury sable.
The alarm is a 7900 viper.

I might just bring it to my local car shop to have them wire up the door locks and what not.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

What alarm have you guys have good luck with? 

I think I'm out $170 on this alarm because its **** according to reviews I've been reading. I'm looking into the viper 5901 alarm...


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

sounds like you have a reversing polarity door lock system to me. (confirmed) 










Do this


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Thank you^^^ thats a great help!


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

if you're looking for the switch side or the motor side, when you have the wires cut, use your multimeter and look for the side with the voltage when the switch is pressed... this would be the switched side.

If, after everything is hooked up you blow a fuse, you have hooked one or both sides up backwards..


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## cgarnes (Apr 1, 2008)

You could also buy a D.E.I. 451M Door Lock Relay Module. They are not that expensive and pretty easy to understand. We use them pretty often at our shop and have never had any problems with them. One module would work both doors.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

cgarnes said:


> You could also buy a D.E.I. 451M Door Lock Relay Module. They are not that expensive and pretty easy to understand. We use them pretty often at our shop and have never had any problems with them. One module would work both doors.


Well its a 4 door sedan...would it still work? id rather use one of those than some standard relays.

Looks like sonic electronix has them for 8.99 plus shipping. I will go ahead and do that.


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## keithace (Jan 7, 2008)

you can do it man...its a great learning experience...relays are fine and have been used for years...


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## cgarnes (Apr 1, 2008)

Yeah the 451M will work fine. You'll just use two (2) of them; one for each pair of doors. They work great.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

cgarnes said:


> Yeah the 451M will work fine. You'll just use two (2) of them; one for each pair of doors. They work great.


So i really need two of them? so that means i have another set of door lock wires huh? Ugh i might just bring this to my local shop and have them wire this up. I found a lot of 5 of those relays for cheaper than 2 would be so i will get those then have my shop wire it up for me. Unless someone on here can really help me out haha.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

austin, just use that diagram I gave you, you only need two SPDT (single pole double throw) relays, some connectors and some wire.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> austin, just use that diagram I gave you, you only need two SPDT (single pole double throw) relays, some connectors and some wire.


Ok. So do i need to find another set of wires? or will it work with the two wires i have found already? Im probably going to get the 451 relays that cgarnes mentioned. If that doesnt work then i will do the two relays. I guess i will try it with the two wires i have now and then see if it locks/unlocks both doors.

Im waiting for a new remote and brain to come back to me since the one i originally had dont communicate with each other. I was really pissed about that one. But i am having it replaced.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

you use the two wires that you have already found.

Take the two wires, and cut them, you are now left with four ends. Use the relay diagram I provided and follow the diagram, and it will work.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> you use the two wires that you have already found.
> 
> Take the two wires, and cut them, you are now left with four ends. Use the relay diagram I provided and follow the diagram, and it will work.


Ok thanks. I was mainly confused about another set of wires i needed. I will give this a shot this weekend. BTW, will i still be able to use my switch for my locks? Im not familiar with the internals of the spdt relay.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

yes,you will


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> sounds like you have a reversing polarity door lock system to me. (confirmed)
> 
> 
> 
> ...



So I've been looking at this diagram a lot and i have one question pertaining to the unlock and lock wire. I'm assuming that those wires are determined by whether they contain the +12volts when it lock and unlocks right? so that means that there is no need for a grounding mechanism? sorry I'm just trying to get this right in my brain.

I got two of these from ebay because at my local shucks they are like $6 a piece and these come with cool wiring harnesses.
12V/12 VOLT 30/40A SPDT RELAY w/ SOCKET & WIRE HARNESS:eBay Motors (item 220382121985 end time Nov-16-09 15:01:18 PST)


This is what i have been going off of:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1498.html

It says my pink/yellow is my lock wire and my pink/light green is my unlock. So would i follow this?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Also, For my radar/proximity sensor where should i mount it? Is under the dash ok? 

Do i need it flat?

Would it be better to mount it near the center of the car such as on the hump between the two seats?


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

are you talking about the lock.unlock wires coming off the brain or the ones in the car?

i usually put my radar sensors somewhere in the middle like the hump good idea.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> are you talking about the lock.unlock wires coming off the brain or the ones in the car?
> 
> i usually put my radar sensors somewhere in the middle like the hump good idea.



Here is the installation guide. Go to page 19 and tell me how you think i should wire it up to that relay diagram you gave me.

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/viper/N5501V_12-06post.pdf

also for the radar sensor, would it be ok to mount it under the carpet? or should i just keep it on top and slit the carpet for the wire?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

bump.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

Austin.. I am out of town right now, when I get back home tomorrow im gonna whip you up a youtube to check out.,. wont be until like 8 pst though.,. we'll get this **** done!


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> Austin.. I am out of town right now, when I get back home tomorrow im gonna whip you up a youtube to check out.,. wont be until like 8 pst though.,. we'll get this **** done!


Haha alright thanks man. You are a great help to me right now.


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Austin, maybe I missed it somewhere but did the car come with a factory keyless entry or does it have the keypad on the outside?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> Austin, maybe I missed it somewhere but did the car come with a factory keyless entry or does it have the keypad on the outside?


No it is just a key. No keypad at all. I should have mentioned that in the first place since it does make a difference. But i think boostednihilist was assuming i didn't have the keypad which i don't.


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Have you already found the pink/green and pink/yellow wires?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> Have you already found the pink/green and pink/yellow wires?


Yes i have. Its just a question of how to wire up the alarm signal wires to the relays and what not. If you need clarification i can draw up a diagram of everything i am working with.


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Oh ok, well its pretty easy. Do you have a multimeter? All you have to do is cut both of those wires in half and follow the diagram that boostednihilist posted up. Follow it just like the diagram. The relays you bought will be labled just like the diagram (85,86,30,87a and 87). Very simple.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> Oh ok, well its pretty easy. Do you have a multimeter? All you have to do is cut both of those wires in half and follow the diagram that boostednihilist posted up. Follow it just like the diagram. The relays you bought will be labled just like the diagram (85,86,30,87a and 87). Very simple.


Ok. Glad to hear that comfirmed by two people now. I do have a DMM and am very familiar with it and testing wires. Ive used relays before too for my remote turn on wire since ive got three amps and an EQ. 

The only deal im having problems with is how to wire the alarm up to it. I see it needs a negative pulse for the lock _and_ unlock. According to my diagram it is a positive and negative pulse. Here is a pick from the install guide.










My guess is that i just go with the wires that use the negative for the lock and unlock, right? Will the (+) pulse do anything to the relays? or would they just cause them to not react to the signal input?


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Thats right, the alarm sends a very low current - and + on the blue and green wires. It will activate the relay.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> sounds like you have a reversing polarity door lock system to me. (confirmed)
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Austin said:


> My guess is that i just go with the wires that use the negative for the lock and unlock, right? Will the (+) pulse do anything to the relays? or would they just cause them to not react to the signal input?





60ampfuse said:


> Thats right, the alarm sends a very low current - and + on the blue and green wires. It will activate the relay.



So according to these diagrams my Green wire from my alarm (sending a (-) pulse for lock) gets connected to the relay on the right at the #85 spot, correct?

Then my light blue wire from my alarm (sending a (-) pulse for unlock) gets connected to the relay on the left at the #86 spot. Am i right so far? 

Either i didn't understand your last post 60ampfuse or im just paranoid but will the positive pulses not do anything to the relay circuit? (since we only need the (-) pulse, wont it cause a short circuit?)


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Yes that is right and it will not short.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> Yes that is right and it will not short.


Ok perfect. Im waiting to get my brain and remote back and get my relays in the mail so i wont be attempting this until probably later this week or this coming weekend. Im going to continue wiring everything else though over the next few days. 

Hopefully nothing else goes wrong. I should have this all sorted out now. Ive gotta figure out how to get my defrost control working too. I think i just need another relay for that right? and wire it up kinda like a remote wire setup?

Sorry for all these questions i just want to get this right before i finish everything.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

Right on! sounds like you're definitely on the right track. 

Relays can be a ****in ***** when you're just getting started with them.

Be careful with that defrost switch... Defrost switches can go from a simple put ground or twelve volts here to transistor driven bitches from hell (1998 toyota rav4 defrost switch... $200)... I can't seem to find any information on that particular year.. should be able to dig something up tomorrow 
(just got back from an 8hr road trip post hangover... I'm done for tonight)

what do you have for wiring info on that defrost switch there Austin?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> Right on! sounds like you're definitely on the right track.
> 
> Relays can be a ****in ***** when you're just getting started with them.
> 
> ...


absolutely nothing haha. Its not a main concern at the moment because I dont have a rear window yet and i wouldn't be able to use it anyways. So I've still got a few weeks to get that one figured out. I'm about to go dive into finishing the other wiring right now.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

So I should have the relays by tomorrow and I will get them wired in on Friday most likely before work. I’m not sure when I will receive my replacement brain and remote but I am finishing up my current wiring. I only need to do my parking light flash wire (which I need to find a way to get at that little wire). My trunk pin switch and then my door locks which will be cake since boosted and 60ampfuse were a great help to me.

Since I have so much time to make things look tidy and correct my mistakes I was thinking about my sensor options. I realized that my alarm can only have one sensor unless I start splicing wires and what not. Before I got the alarm in my hands I had the initial thought that it would be able to plug in 4 sensors so I thought "great now lets go search alarm sensors on eBay and find out what there is to get". So I ordered a glass break sensor. (The main reason I am doing an alarm is because I got a rock through my window. and plus I need it to protect my car audio gear ) I soon received my alarm and found out it had only one port for a sensor . Is there a way to wire up three sensors into the one port? I'm not sure if it will interfere with one another and the other concern is if the power supply intended for one sensor will be able to power three? (Radar, shock, glass break) This is the quick and sloppy diagram I drew up so you can all get the idea of what I want to do. I want my car as touchy as possible and the only way to do this is add all these sensors.









The R stands for radar, G for glass break and S for shock. The glass break is a single stage only for obvious reasons so there is no green wire. So do I need resistors or diodes or w/e where they intersect?

My local car audio/alarm shop says that the radar sensor will take care of everything. I'm a little skeptical about a rock through the window though. I'm willing to wait and see by rolling my window down and tossing different sized rocks through the open window and see if it works. If it doesn't than i at least want to do the radar and glass sensor.

What do you guys think? Do i need to make an external power source for these, or will the brain power up to at least two of the sensors?

And as for the defrost switch i might just go ask my local shop how they would wire it up and maybe pay them a bit to do it for me.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

(didnt want to cludder up the last post even more)

For the diagram with the two relays, there is a switch side and a motor side for the locking wire. I'm getting at these wires in the drivers kick panel so wont i not be able to get to the switch side for the drivers door? should i tap into the wires up at the switch in the door or will it work with the two wires in the kick panel area? or does it even really matter?

I feel like such a nag...  but i want to get this right.



BoostedNihilist said:


> sounds like you have a reversing polarity door lock system to me. (confirmed)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Up ^

I think my brain is waiting for me at my work so i may have that going tonight.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

once you have cut the wires in the kickpanel, take your multimeter, ground the ground probe and use the 12v probe on the ends of the wire. Press the switch, when you find 12v you have found the switched side.

If you're gonna double up sensors like that you have to diode isloate the trigger lines.


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## Vestax (Aug 16, 2005)

Careful not to wire the wrong side. You can short the switch. 

Just remember when you cut the wire in half, there's a switch side and the motor side. Wire it carefully and remember that the output wire coming out of relay's 30pin must go to the motor, not the switch side. Label it if you have to.


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## Vestax (Aug 16, 2005)

Just a tip out there for people, if you ever need a 451m, ask a big box installer for a free one. A lot of the DEI alarms are packed with 451m's... but installers don't use them half of the time, since the small voltage off the alarm will work. I'm pretty sure most alarm installers will have a bunch of these.

451s are 2 micro relays in one. In this case, you don't need two of them... that would be like having 4 relays. 451's are convenient though, as everything is prewired for you.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

> Careful not to wire the wrong side. You can short the switch.


which leads me to mention that it is very important to fuse the 12v supply to the relays.

also... use about a 10a (15 max) fuse.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

BoostedNihilist said:


> which leads me to mention that it is very important to fuse the 12v supply to the relays.
> 
> also... use about a 10a (15 max) fuse.


Ok. Ive got about a 10 gauge wire ready for the relays when they get here. Ive got a fuse holder and some 10 A fuses. If my radar sensor works for the rock through the window then i will just use that one. But if it doesnt then i will come back here and figure out how to isolate the signal wires.

Only thing left for me to do now is wire up my parking light wire and then my door locks. Thank god this is almost over haha. Thanks for everyones help.


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## SlipAngle (Oct 2, 2009)

Austin said:


>


That smiley saved this wiring diagram.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

SlipAngle said:


> That smiley saved this wiring diagram.


haha. Sure did. I just used paint really quick to get a visual lol


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Ok i got my alarm brain and remote back and it works! The door locks work perfectly. I'm just about to go and finish up some of the wiring like the parking lights and the trunk pop.

I ended up converting my trunk to an electric latch so i can use my remote to release it and it turned out really well. I got the kit from here: 
15 LB Power Trunk Lock Release Actuator Kit w/Relay NEW:eBay Motors (item 350270623928 end time Nov-07-09 11:02:14 PST)

It was really simple to do. The switch that came with it was a POS so i had to buy a toggle switch from chucks but no biggy.

Thanks for everyone's help as i am extremely happy now.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Ok. So i tried to add my glass break sensor to my radar sensor and i can't really tell if it works or not. But i have been getting a lot of false alarms but the strange thing is that it is only the warn away chirps. I used two diodes and I'm 99.9% sure i wired it up correctly. I have the sensor turned all the way down now and it still is doing it. Also when i unplug it there are no false alarms so i know it is the glass sensor. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

i used a non dei sensor that is made by skytek:
SCYTEK GLASS BREAK SENSOR, CAR ALARM, NEW!! GS1 GS-1:eBay Motors (item 160359857785 end time Nov-30-09 21:29:02 PST)

I've read that the sensitivity can be off greatly by not using the same brand of sensor. Could this be my problem? should i get a dei one instead?


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

Well the glass break sensor doesnt have a warn away circuit, only a full trigger. So it is either installed wrong or its your motion sensor that is doing the warn away. Did you also install a piezo siren?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> Well the glass break sensor doesnt have a warn away circuit, only a full trigger. So it is either installed wrong or its your motion sensor that is doing the warn away. Did you also install a piezo siren?


Ya i know its just a full trigger, so that is what is so wierd. Right now i have it unhooked and it hasn't given a false warn away yet...Im assuming its a bad sensor. Im not too worried about it now though since i adjusted my radar sensor to be more sensitive so if my glass breaks it will know for sure.

I haven't done the piezo siren yet...i want to though. I found one online but its like $20.


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## 60ampfuse (May 18, 2008)

The piezo siren will trigger the glass break sensor whenever the warn away is triggered.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

60ampfuse said:


> The piezo siren will trigger the glass break sensor whenever the warn away is triggered.


Oh wow. Maybe i will just not worry about the glass break sensor haha.


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