# 2001 5 Speed Maxima, Sound Monitor, .......



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been looking for one of these cars for a while. I would have preferred the 6spd but only seen a couple over the last few years. Never seen the 6spd for a reasonable price. So 5 gears it is. The car has 168k looks and drives like it has 30k. I buy a couple cars a year for fun and this is the first time I actually had service records from day one. I've had a few people offer over the years but never took them up on it. Well I got them with this car and I read through them all. It was pretty cool to have a timeline. Almost nothing has needed to be done. All the matinence and wear and tear stuff. The biggie is all the clutch parts, struts and springs, and engine gaskets have been replaced within the last 32k. I paid less then 4000 for it. I bought it last Friday and have put over 1000 miles on it already. Love the car. 





Ignore the work trucks in the background. They pay for my fun!


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

excellent choice! hoping for some gems of audio in this.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

We drove the car back from NYC. It has the factory Bose system. It is horrible. I forgot how bad these low end Bose systems sound. The sound is just muddy and cluttered. My wife loves the boomy bass and couldn't stand how bass heavy this thing was. I could go on but why? So first thing Saturday the Bose came out. I already had a dash kit and amazingly the local shop had the Metra integration harness with the RCA inputs. Just sent the HU outputs directly in to the factory harness. I will still get to use the DSP features, somewhat. This Bose has the amplifiers on the speakers so the HU does all the downgrading of the signal (I assume).I had to modify the factory mounting brackets a bit. I Drilled over sized holes so I could easily adjust the double din setup in to the dash kit flush. I terminated the harness's with 3M heat shrink and adhesive connectors (my fav).



The Sound Monitor looks like it was designed for this car.


The lights match near perfect as well. Even though the knob lights are brighter the go with the dash lights. It's way closer to a match in person than pic.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I will be using the SM hu, obviously. I will also be using the Sound Monitor PAX-3 amp setup. It's a separate power with two separate signal amplifiers connected via XLR. I have all the manuals and original packaging. I even have factory trim rings for both SM HU's. Most people that own them now haven't ever seen the trim pieces (not really "rings"). I had the manual professionally translated and put in to book form exactly as the original but it is currently misplaced.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Everything else is up in the air. I always wanted to try some Phass speakers. I like Mosconi amps. I'm not sure on a sub (or two) either. Been eyeballing AF subs. I also need to figure out what cabling, batteries, etc. I do want this to be a little exotic, however I am not against what is just going to sound good.

There is a couple things that is decided. Factory locations only. I have conceded to the fact I may have to build out the tweeter locations to get the sound I am looking for. The factory 6.5 locations will allow for some baffles and aiming. I am not going to take up my trunk space either. I have about 2.8 cu available for box(total) and will just set the amps nicely on either side of the trunk. I am also going to utilize the rear speakers. On a DSP of their own. This car will have great listening at every seat. All the Eclipse systems I have had for my normal driving cars have had surround and I am going to continue that trend as best as I can. I assume I'll end up getting a DSP with center channel and run the center up front. The front may end up 3 way if I can figure a way to do it without changing the factory look. The rear will be 2-way. I will also be throwing a screen in here somewhere for navi duties and entertainment. I'm think some small tablet that can come out of the dash discretely above the center heater vents. It's just dead space. It will have to hide away like it belongs there. I am open to any ideas and/or suggestions. I will not be getting crazy with this for a few months. I just wanted to get some suggestions going as I start the process. 

I will be doing a full sound deadening with SDS products. So please Second Skin don't chime in on my thread to tell me how your stuff fits the bill. Don is the man and I'm loyal to a fault.

I will be doing some minor mechanical and cosmetic upgrades as well. I have already purchased all new seats, door handles, head lamps, etc. I will be doing some timing adjustments and air intake stuff. Don't know to much about it. I have a mentor. So don't jump in with a bunch of technical stuff unless your trying to teach me(which I will appreciate). Still keep that to a min as this an audio site. I am really looking forward to help and suggestions.


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

I wish you weren't so far away, this sounds like a great system in the making, and I've never seen sound monitor gear and am dead curious.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Distance is realative. Far away for me is time. 2400 miles is close. It's only 3 days. As in not far away. 10 months however is far away. Which is my estimated mostly completed target. I travel out to LA for Laker games ( I in Cleveland for the game last night)I plan on driving the heck out of this car. Sunny California and a sunroof. Makes sense.


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

well pm me when your out this way and we'll make an occasion of it.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I will be in LA in the middle of April but I am sure my car won't be in any shape to drive out there then. I will definitely hit you up when I do drive out there. I love road trips. I still act like I'm 18 when people suggest going places "Hell yeah I'm in. When? Right now? No problem, let me grab a back pack" I just did it to my foreman when I bought this car. Called him at 10 pm to let him know I was in NYC. He angrily said "what kind of guy takes a unplanned trip when he has a company to run?" Me. So in others words I'm sure you'll get a chance to take a look and listen. Don't be afraid to remind me as this gets closer to done.


----------



## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

This is my favorite body style of Maxima.
I really want one but the newest version of this style is 13 years old. 

I like the Sound Monitor stuff. I'm ready to see the speaker install!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

13 years old just means the parts are cheaper! I switched out the analog input and ran a aptx Bluetooth adapter via coaxial. I can honestly say I am amazed at how decent this stereo sounds. It is no longer horrible. The factory sub is still just pure garbage but the rest is now listenable. I really complimenting the Bluetooth adapter! But really I need to figure out the front stage and get some speakers in. Here's the adapter. After two days I'm really pleased.

http://www.parts-express.com/bluetooth-40-receiver-with-aptx-decoding-and-nfc-pairing--320-340


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

So I'm pretty sure I want to gowith a 12" IB. Anyone done this in one of these Maxima's with insight? I have never done a infinite baffle setup and I don't even know what to consider.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well add-ons, speaker selection and install location decisions are done. 

Multimedia - Small tablet out of dash flip screen style. 

3 TC Sounds 10" subs IB rear deck. Test fit, will work without removing rear glass. I still will if it ends upbeing easier to prepare the rear deck.

Stereo Integrity TM65's - Factory Door location. I may jump up to 8" mids later if these don't have enough umph (there is 4.5" of mounting depth and the inside of door panel will allow it)

Fountek 88EX mids - Doors. Close to dash just below window. There just happens to be a pocket with a near flat spot on the panel and about 4" of mounting depth behind it.

Scan Speak d3004 - Sail panels mostly off axis. Not sure how much I'll be able to aim them in the factory location but that was a big reason I chose these. I've been told they play well off axis.

Sub amp and second amp have not been decided. I want to use another Sound Monitor set but finding another will take an extreme stroke of luck. I am considering trying to get a Soundstream HRU.2 for sub duties as I'll need about 1200w to push those 3 subs.

I already own all the speakers but I am open to suggestions on a small tablet and a sub amp.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well something came up and I was not able to make it to the Syracuse show but I was able to utilize that time otherwise accordingly. Went to tear apart the rear deck and discovered that I had the basically rip out a the rear trim and seats. So I did the logical thing and put down some sound deadening. First and foremost I want to say sometimes the obvious eludes me. I have several cordless impact guns as I do lost of metal roofs and until a couple weeks ago I never thought of crossing them over to the automotive world. They work great. Break bolts free and make short work of any threaded fastener. You know, just like a pneumatic impact gun!





Here's what I started with







You can see all the factory CLD. I'm not touching it. The car is pretty quiet to begin with so something is doing its job. I'm just adding some SDS tiles where needed, then CCF, and MLV.

CCF done on floor



MLV...


I hit the trunk a bit. Was able to get some CLD in between the wheel well and inner trunk wall. Pretty tight.



Only MLV'd the spare tire so far. Getting the hard part out of the way



Controlling noise on the support brackets




Had to cut some MLB back so I can get seat belt brackets back in. Made sure I didn't take out the CCF. Don't want those vibrations transferring.



Left a flap for the gas tank access


Flap covering the pass through. It is going to stay but it is not secured just in case I do need to pass through.


----------



## Lymen (Aug 9, 2011)

Looks very promising so far, good luck and....sub'd


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I've been considering do MLV in my build. What did you use for bonding?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

To me it's not a consideration anymore. It's as important as power cable. I always rattle/vibration proofed my vehicles. But did really understand the importance of the mlv.The first time I properly installed MLV it made such an significant difference there was no going back. I will lower my budget for all other aspects to make sure I have enough for all the steps of sound deadening. Just do it. 

I used all Sound Deadener Showdown products with some ensolite PNS thrown in. You can see the the can of adhesive in one of the pictures. It's the best adhesive I have used. It also works on the CCF from SDS.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

acronyms for a novist are confusing lol, but would a residential MLV be equivilent? i mean seems cheaper. also i have some nice deadner with some thick tin, but im thinking of picking up this residential construction MLV and yes i feel the same way about it. its also a brand new car, i wanna do it right! if i'm going to keep this car till its paid off! at the very least so.

does this adhesive adhear to other surfaces like the aluminum\metal of the car? or say the tin of the deadner say on the door panels, should i only be worried about it as an insolation such as in a wall, where as its covered it covered surface tension has no affect on its efficiency?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The adhesive I used only sticks to stuff with vinyl content. But it is the best stuff for what it does. The residential standards for smell are higher than what is tolerable in a car. What I am saying is the MLV can be an effective sound barrier but it may make you car stink. I did use the Home Depot MLV in my Blazer and it did work and did not smell much. However, it was extremely difficult to work with. It is a bit thhicker and a little less mass than SDS( Sound Deadener Showdown). It is not flexible and it is hard to shape to the contours of a vehicle. I only used it o the floor pan. Secondly a lot of residential MLV has a powder/dust on it that has to be cleaned off it before it is adhered. That being said, I would say if it's mass compares (1lb per sq ft) than it would be fine to save some money on floor pans, cargo area's, and maybe a firewall or tailgate. Never on doors. Use industrial strength Velcro to hold the MLV to vertical surfaces. Check out this link. It will teach you all you need to know. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I may have mentioned that I am seeing what each upgrade's effect is to the factory system before I remove each factory component completely. That's why I am changing stuff piece by piece. So I deadend up the rear deck with some CLD tiles and closed up all the holes. There was two reasons. I wanted to see what improvement I could get from the Bose sub and I want to chase down any rattles before I put 3 10's in. Well there was a huge improvement in the subs output. It's still not good. But at least twice as good as it was. I found a rattle that may present a big challenge as well. The seat belt retainer housing. It rattles aggressively, like it it's only reason for existence is to upset me. The problem is that well, I need seat belts. I will be attacking that later. A couple picks of the rear deck. 



The hinged looking thing is the truck lid arm. It's a big hole in the rear deck and needs to get sealed. Obviously I can't just stick CLD to it as it needs to move so I took a bit of the closed cell foam and put it in the center of a larger piece of CLD. Now the arm with rub against the CCF instead of sticking to the CLD.



The mids and tweets that are going in. The tweets are some Vifa's. They are temporary. Unless I love them.Just want to hear the difference myself. I will be putting in the afformentioned Scanspeaks. 



And the most recent and important pic. The car back in the garage after a trip to North Carolina for a little GTG .


----------



## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Cool meeting you at the gtg! Hope ya find yer way back down after getting your car playing, lol. I saw this log and thought, hey, he didn't offer me a demo! Then I read through and saw you're just getting started on it. I'm with you on the mlv and proper deadening, it's just the right thing to do, not to mention the stealth factor of having all hell breaking loose in the car, and barely audible outside.....lmao.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Yeah, definitely awesome to meet you as well. You should get to meet my car in the fall. I see no reason it won't be playing by then. Me coming down again is not the questionable part!


----------



## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Awesome I'm glad you had a good enough time to consider another trip! We have a great group down here, awesome bunch of guys, and some of the regulars missed it due to life, and other distractions...lol. Come on back and I'll get you a longer demo in, not right before ya leave!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I have gotten a couple sets of speakers

Phase coaxial for rear fill



TM65's


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I needed to test out the Phass as I just purchased them from a fellow New Yorker on here having a mega cleaning out my closet sale  so I decided to just install them. I hit up the door with some CLD tiles. Unfortunately I have my cars treated with rust proofing oil. Unfortunate because I had to clean all this oil off before I can stick anything to the doors. I made some mounting baffles out of hdpe. I counter sunk some metal roofing screws into the baffles. Stuck some Foam Mart ensolite between the door and baffle and some weatherstripping between baffle and speaker. I like the metal roofing screws because they are stainless, self tappers designed for up to 19 gauge steel, and have rubber grommets to help with vibration transfer.








I used the weatherstripping as my ruler toevenly space out the mounting screws





There was a huge hole in the door panel so I used some 1/8" abs plastic to cover the opening, I mounted the abs with some butyl rope. I stuck the rope on the inside of the Panel and then pressed the plastic to it with my arm through the speaker hole. Added a couple pieces of CLD and bam, done.



That's it for now. I will install some mlv and do the other gear door next


----------



## USS Enterprise (May 26, 2007)

Nice build!
Love the car. I had an 01 5-speed myself until last year. Loved it. Had a small system in it.
9887
Morel Tempo 6 set in front
Infinity Ref 475a
Subs 2 x JBL p1222
Sub amp Sony XM 3520 (yes 35x2)

Had the subs IB behind the seats. Absolutely hammered. Tooth rattling at 35 watts per sub. Clean, low, and hard. These cars were meant for IB. You should love it.

Can't wait to see your progress.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I wasn't happy with the way the abs plastic adhered with the butyl rope so I changed it. It didn't fail or anything. Just the nature of the butyl rope allowed the joint to be flexible which I don't want. I decided to just use some 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum to split space. Now the gaps will just be a couple inches so I can simply fill those holes with some CLD tiles. Then I covered the rest of the door holes. I also changed the door handle to a chrome exterior handle.

I just used aluminum zip screws to secure the aluminum. The same type of screws that hold gutters together. They self tap through the steel like it's plastic and can easily be removed and reused for repairs.




I put some of the closed cell foam over the door lock and handle.shafts so the CLD doesn't stop them from moving. Now it should be sealed up for good.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

USS Enterprise said:


> Nice build!
> Love the car. I had an 01 5-speed myself until last year. Loved it. Had a small system in it.
> 9887
> Morel Tempo 6 set in front
> ...


Why did you part ways with it? On of these days I'll try one of those era Alpine's. Still stuck on old Alpine. 35 watts is sweet for sub power. Unfortunately the subs I'm using will want 350 a piece. They will sound great but still 10 times what you were running!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

So I finished up the MLV, ensolite, and other rear door. I also put in some XTC speaker protectors. 

I trimmed out the bottom of the protectors to keep it ib. Not sure if it would hinder it any, but nevertheless.



I used Ensolite from Foam Mart. It's seems like better material than Raamaudio but it has a smell to it. Not really strong but strong enough that if it was the front doors I would have just used some regular closed cell foam from SDS. That is what I'm using for the front.



SDS MLV. This the best MLV out there. Easiest to use. Very flexible and no smell.





Had to trim the styrofoam from the inside of door panel. Just took a hand saw to it.





There was a nasty rattle in the seat belt. It sits inside a cup mounted on the rear deck. I am hoping that by isolating the cup with CCF and Ensolite it will greatly reduce the vibration in the seat belt mechanism. It's actually the inertia ball so there is nothing I can do to that.







And here is the passenger door completely done. Those brackets are freshly painted as I found rust on them. I can't imagine what they would not paint them when every other part of the door is treated with some type of weatherproofing.



I also swapped out the outer door handles with OEM chrome handles. I'm not "chroming it out" it just adds some nice accent when the front and rear have chrome trim but the middle of the car had none.


----------



## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Looks like solid deadening work there!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The true test will be if i can hear your car when I park next to you at the GTG.


----------



## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Lol.....surprisingly, mine is pretty quiet on the outside. I, like you're doing, deadened the **** out of the cobalt, and while all hell can be breaking loose on the inside, folks outside can't hardly tell.....yet another benefit of mlv, cld, and foam......jamming on the down low, lol. Now if you open a window...........


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I started on the front doors. I need to figure out which of two spots I am going to mount the Fountek's. The tape is squaring off the two possible locations. I am going to try and get as close to a flush mount as possible. I will put a thin ring on it to keep it sealed if I have to. I will put a nice thick mounting baffle inside the door panel for strength.



I have about 3" of depth to the glass . The hole in the upper left of the door is directly behind the lower spot and I may have to trim a little metal if I go with the top spot.



Here's what the natural aiming kinda looks like. The driver door pic illustrates it best.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I did make two decisions. The top spot is where the mids are going and I am going to mount the tablet in the space the center vent currently occupies. I never open the center vent so that part does not bother me. I will likely put some type of small vent behend the tablet. I can mold up some abs plastic to redirect the ducting.


----------



## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

Sub'd I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with a nice setup in it for improvement


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

win1 said:


> Sub'd I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with a nice setup in it for improvement


What type of setup do have? I had an 2000 but it was an automatic. Feel free to give some idea's or thoughts about our cars.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Sub'd too... Have a 2003 automatic


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

These came in today. I guess it it's time to make some rca's and get some amps installed. What seemed like a problem earlier does seem fortuitous now. The building had an issue with the architect and/or drawings and wanted some revisions so we are no longer working tomorrow. Gives me some time with the car


----------



## USS Enterprise (May 26, 2007)

Theslaking said:


> Why did you part ways with it? On of these days I'll try one of those era Alpine's. Still stuck on old Alpine. 35 watts is sweet for sub power. Unfortunately the subs I'm using will want 350 a piece. They will sound great but still 10 times what you were running!


Your build is looking fantastic. I can't wait to see how it turns out.
I only wish I could have gotten as detailed as you are about the car.

BTW, to answer your question, it was traded in towards a 2013 Genesis Sedan.

(For my wife, I took her car)


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

So i finally built up the courage to cut open my door panel. I test fitted the 88r's. They fit nicely. I will not need to modify the door. I will have to use some type of spacer on the visible side to compensate for the natural contour of the panel.



I cut flaps in to the vinyl. I drilled holes at the corners of each flap so i could tell from the other side where the hole needs to be.





I drilled very slowly with a hole saw. I was very careful not to catch the vinyl. I drilled the vinyl on a door panel once. The vinyl bound on the teeth and the hole saw ripped the vinyl off half the door panel. Never again. Here I finished it off with the straight blade.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I also temporarily mounted the tablet where i am going to put it. I am going to ride around with it here for a couple weeks so i can make sure i like how everything works before I permanently modify the car.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

win1 said:


> Sub'd I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with a nice setup in it for improvement


You did a nice job with your car. Thanks for the pics. Do you have any complaints about your setup?


----------



## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

No the only complaint is I'm getting ready to redo the trunk again lol never satisfied want to go IB with IDMax 12's. The IDMax 10's are awesome in the seal enclosure solid bass and response. Install is never done lol.

Winfred


----------



## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

I had a 2000 maxima for many years. Installed an eclipse head unit, and focal speakers front and rear (doors). Ran a single 12 in a sealed enclosure. It sounded great, but if I were to do it again, it would definately be an IB setup. Likely would use two 12's. The car is now my sons (in college), and he has enjoyed the stereo and car for 5 years now. His friends always like taking his car out, so that they can "jam." That maxima was \ is one of my favorite cars i have owned. Pretty peppy vehicles. Good luck with yours.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I would take the car back and tehimll to use Uber


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been down in Baltimore (and Philly, Delaware, D.C., Gettysburg,) for the last 9 days and I came home to this stuff 

Two more subs. 1 is a just in case.



These are just because I have never stopped being a kid


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This is my first attempt at soldering up an RCA. I have never made any cables before. 



Not to bad. Didn't get to finish the wire because I forgot about an estimate appointment and had rush out. Good news is I got the job and will now have more money for this build .


----------



## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Good, cos this build needs some action! Looking forward to when ya get rollin'.........


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well not much but as long as I am updating I'm working on it. So lots of people have mentioned the dislike with the TM65 terminals. I found out why. I made rings up to mount them in the front doors. No pics yet. I'll post them when the doors are done. I decided to wire them up to the factory amp which should be giving them about 40w. They sounded pretty good. I do believe I am going to be impressed. Back to the terminals. They are weak and bulky. Two things you don't want so I went ahead and soldered my own wires. I should be able to work on it a bit tomorrow.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

And don't forget to use plastic washers when screwing them down!! If you don't you'll start cursing the surrounds on them :-(


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Timelessr1 said:


> And don't forget to use plastic washers when screwing them down!! If you don't you'll start cursing the surrounds on them :-(


All those metal roofing screws i used have hard rubber grommets.

Me and my son had some quality Techflexing time together. 





I also got the strut mounting bolts needed to replace the torsion bars for my trunk lid.Then I can work on IB rear deck. The new HU dash kit, tablet holder, and extra dash vent came in so I can start working on the permanent Tablet mount. Hopefully I can get 20 hours in over the next few weeks. That's my guesstimate to get this thing playing decently.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I have been picking at this. I swapped out the torsion bars that hold up the trunk lid for some stuts from Lift Support Depot. They were very helpful. They did all the research for me. They found a car with a similar trunk lid and suggested the correct struts for my application. They fit perfect and the results are better than I hoped for. The trunk can now bee set to any position in its range of motion and it stays there. I had to do the swap regardless so I can get my subs in the rear deck. 



Baseball shows how far the bars stick in the trunk.



The new clean look



The struts


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Thanks for the info as I have those annoying torsion bars in my TL and I wouldn't mind getting rid of them. Can you let me know what struts they recommended?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I ran the power and ground wire in to the car. Knu 4 awg. I always run my ground from the front. I protected them with Techflex and heat/crush resistant automotive conduit. There was very nice factory access both in to the car and engine compartment.

Tire and splash guard removed, bam! Factory grommet.



Ran the cable right along a factory bundle directly to battery cradle. Wrapped in tape so it looks like it was meant to be there.






When I ran the wires in the grommet I used Geocell caulking. I put it around the wire so when I pulled the wire through it really sets the caulk in the grommet where a caulk gun could never reach.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Ran the speaker wires in to the door. This was a huge pain I the [email protected]! Getting to the factory harness on the inside is difficult. It's way in the kick panel. Once I got it out I drilled the harness to fit some Audiopipe wire. 





Techflexed the speaker wire bundle and ran it to the back.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

dgage said:


> Thanks for the info as I have those annoying torsion bars in my TL and I wouldn't mind getting rid of them. Can you let me know what struts they recommended?


I can but it may not help. They taught me that it's not just the weight of the trunk lid but also the hinge. The type of hinge system determines the actual amount of pressure the strut needs to support. Mine were 80lbs. The amount of strut travel will vary car to car.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been messing with this. Jumping all around. I found rust on just about every mounting bracket that's behind a panel. So I have spent a lot of ttime painting. I got the power wire fused and connected in the engine bay, finished the passenger door and working on the door panel and mid install now. I also installed the accessory distribution block and power run in to the car.

I started off making a box to house the fuses it turned Out good but was not easy to open and access the fuses, so I tried a different idea. I just needed a easy to get to corrosion resistant plate tho mount them to. I came up with an contraption that utilizes the battery bracket.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

As seen in previous pics the battery tray, bracket, and rods were rusted so I ordered replacements. When I do the HID conversion I'll swap them out. 

The useless box 



I painted the bracket until I put the new one in. You can see a couple dabs of grease on the new battery terminals. I use it to test and see if they hit the hood. I learned the hard way. Put a good dent in a hood before because I just slammed it shut without checking for clearance.



I also cut a dash bezel to fit mostly flush mount. It's has a natural curve in the dash so not perfect. I used a Dremel with a tile cutting bit and it worked great. I'm going to redo it later as it's not as perfect as I need it to be but it is acceptable for now.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I guess this is the point of no return. I have to build an IB baffle now.



At first I cut it out for the 3 10" subs but then I decided it would be easier to just build an entirely new baffle/rear deck. I didn't cut any of the supporting cross members.



I have done more work. Pics will be coming later.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I had to add some CLD tiles to the roof so I took this opportunity to install a rearview camera. I didn't want to lose the factory look. I chose to use a rearview mirror screen from a 2010 Altima. I can the wires along the factory runs.

Some CLD





Tapped in to the factory mirror harness for power



The camera runs off 6v so I grabbed power/trigger and stashedd the 12v to 6v step down here on the taillight housing



Re-did the factory loom now including the camera wires.





Ran the wire and grommets through the trunk lid and license plate housing






Treated the license plate and holder holder while I was there




The camera is pointing up as the trunk is open


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I wired up the driver door. It was worse than the passenger. Nissan has more than one component stuffed in the kick panel and all the electrical distribution mounted in front of the opening. What a pita!

Here most of the tools I needed just to run 4 wires



On the driver door harness I actually had to move a couple pins to a different location so I could group the speakers wires together for drilling purposes.



I made some aluminium cross members again to CLD over the opening the same as the other doors


----------



## chasinbass (Jul 23, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> I wired up the driver door. It was worse than the passenger. Nissan has more than one component stuffed in the kick panel and all the electrical distribution mounted in front of the opening. What a pita!
> 
> Here most of the tools I needed just to run 4 wires
> 
> ...


Coming along very nice! I hate those doors lol I did a small install in my GF daughters 2002 max for birthday present. I tuned in for your build .


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Of course the MLV, CCF, and XTCb protectors were used again



That's the passenger door but it looks the same. I actually switched out the mounting baffles to black HDPE as it was pissing me of knowing they were white under the door panel. That was all I had when I originally did it.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Speakers soldered up and ready to go in



Ran the wires for tweeters





Installed and ready to get power. 



A different orientation


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I will be making some type of decorative mounting plates for the mids and tweets. I'm not sure how or out of what yet. I just know I don't like fiberglass. I prefer the visual separation face mounting gives. The smooth fiberglassed piller look is not for me. Whatever mounting plate material I use I will also double for aiming best I can with these locations and mounting. I am open to ideas and input.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

chasinbass said:


> Coming along very nice! I hate those doors lol I did a small install in my GF daughters 2002 max for birthday present. I tuned in for your build .


Thanks. I checked out your build thread as well. Couple 18's seems fun.
I still have 1 more SPL build left in me. I already own 10 Eclipse 9152
Ti's I'll be throwing in an Astro van. I always wanted to do it. I have my Max, my 93 S10, and my wife's truck before I even think about that


----------



## chasinbass (Jul 23, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> Thanks. I checked out your build thread as well. Couple 18's seems fun.
> I still have 1 more SPL build left in me. I already own 10 Eclipse 9152
> Ti's I'll be throwing in an Astro van. I always wanted to do it. I have my Max, my 93 S10, and my wife's truck before I even think about that


Ya something about that bass lol ! Well I had my eye on a clean astro van at work that had bad transmission and asked my boss about it a while back only to pull up to see it get towed away ! She gave it away so she didn't have to pay to have it towed ???? Said she forgot I asked about it ! I would have gave her a little cash for it too! damn ! It was in really great shape cosmetically. I wanted to do four 18 FI teams and two HD15000 Taramps or the new 30k 12v coming out soon. Ten 15s would be bad azz too ! I always wanted to hear those subs, I hear they are nice.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been picking at my car ever so slowly. I have got a baffle in and test fit the subs. Two pieces of 13 ply Baltic birch.






Topped it with a piece of 1\4 plywood for additional thickness. Sealed around the baffle with OSI Quad as well.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I wired up some USB ports in the center console for the rear seats. I also wired up the Miracast device. I always watch videos in my vehicles so it's a must. My kids like to see what they want as well. With the dual app feature on my tablet I can play a YouTube video for them and music for me. The Soundabout app lets me route the audio how I want. I used some butyl rope to hold the wires to the side of the console. I have done this before. The rope will hold forever and peel off cleanly when needed.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I made a wall plate to block off the pass thru. 1/4 aluminum plate. I'll be putting some square tubing on it. Dual purpose. It will brace it and also give me a place to mount something to. Not sure what as I have not figured the trunk equipment orientation yet.





Clamped and glued. Riviting as well.



Some CLD and weather stripping. 





Fits nicely


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have done more to the car. I'm tired of being on av screen already. Plus I have to figure out why the digital input won't recognize the Bluetooth adaptor anymore.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Theslaking said:


> I have done more to the car. I'm tired of being on av screen already. Plus I have to figure out why the digital input won't recognize the Bluetooth adaptor anymore.


Looking good. It still makes me cringe when I'm doing an irreversible thing to a car like cutting something and I'm a pretty ballsy fabricator lol, I spent half a weekend day rethreading a bolt because I can get a little to Tammy sometimes 

The builds looking good looks like your taking your time like I am on my build. What's the rush to put the car back together XD my girl always finds a reason to ***** but I think we all get that one. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

What's funny is my wife's only complains if I'm not working on something. She'll be like"quit being lazy and go work on your car!" Only thing that's really caused me problems is my business. I have way to much work and it's forced even me to work weekends the last couple months. My guys almost always want to work Saturday's but I never do. So I'll set it up for them and they'll have at it. But recently I've had to come in Saturday and Sunday manage a couple crews and work. Bullcrap! Takes away from my car and Call of Duty time.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I did get the spare tire space framed up. And the first floor cut out.



If you cut all the angles correctly you shouldn't have to clamp it to get it plum and tight. It should automatically go in to place perfectly square. It has to work or your cutting it wrong, even with a table or miter saw. I tell people all the time. 





I tell my guys that all the time as we do a lot of exterior trim. Simple geometry.







I will be cutting out the octagon center and putting some type of door probably plexiglass covered with a screen protector. I am putting another false floor above it. Not sure if I am going to go across tbe whole trunk yet. The Sound Monitor amps I am using have separate power supplies. I am putting those and the power distribution in the spare tire area and the amps will be more on display.


----------



## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Why not fiberglass? 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Prejudice.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I will be glassing in the tablet. That's as much as I really want to do. I just don't really like the way it looks. How it makes things blend together seamlessly. I like things looking"stacked". Plus at this point, my skill level is such that I can use wood better than I can glass. So obviously it would take me longer. That also raises ones comfort level.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I can't figure out an amp orientation. I have six pieces to mount. They are all the same size.

Two going up either side, two hidden in spare.




.

Proper spacing would be given and wires would be hidden and/or organized.

All laid out then covered with another floor.



Lining the outside of the trunk. The sub amp is against the seat wall. It's not the one shown(for long).





Didn't realize the low lighting of the pic. Or maybe there is a setup I didn't think about. I have to have a very usable trunk space. We take lots of weekend trips so it needs to hold 4+ backpacks.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well now I can get on with trunk. I have been waiting for these. Lowering springs and some adjustable shocks. I wanted to swap these before I build the trunk around it. I'll leave some type of access but nobody likes ripping stuff out.


----------



## ironman80 (Oct 25, 2014)

> All laid out then covered with another floor.


The most practical setup.



> Lining the outside of the trunk.


Setup more catchy, the show car...



Sorry for bad english.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

ironman80 said:


> The most practical setup.
> 
> 
> Setup more catchy, the show car...
> ...


I am torn between these two .....


----------



## ironman80 (Oct 25, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> [/URL]
> 
> ... I have to have a very usable trunk space. We take lots of weekend trips so it needs to hold 4+ backpacks.


It can be positioned vertically amplifiers? In this case they will all be equally arranged symmetrically. With protective glass and backlit view is excellent. But this requires serious work on the recast of the luggage compartment trim. The second floor in this respect is much easier. And certainly it is more convenient and practical. But it also can be designed very beautifully.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have decided on a trunk orientation. I am going to put all of the power, relays, Mini 2x4 (for sub and rear fill), and misc in the spare tire. I am going to put a shelf from wheel well to wheel well that will house the amps. I will make the horizontal face out of plexi and back light it. I am going to put a hinged top for easy access and a couple of fans for ventilation.

I had to redo the floor.



This shows the general idea of the "box" the amps will go in. Obviously it will go all the way across.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I swapped all the lights to LEDs. A nice visual upgrad. It really helps with the reverse lights. Field of vision really increased. Everyone knows about headlamps I just never thought about backing up!





Illuminates the center console nicely. Used a dimmer led for inside


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Just tuned in for this. Nice work & giving me some ideas for my car. Hope to see/hear this setup at some gtgs this years. Let me know if your ever in or passing through down here in Orange County.

Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

We'll I'm planning on going to the NC meet again. A little bug is I just got offered box seats to opening week at Yankee Stadium for free. One of my customers found out I was a fan and offered them to me. That's 4/11-13 (I think). My wife wants me to go (he's giving me 4 tickets) with our boys as it's my birthday as well. My boy's want to go as these are seats regular people can't usually buy. So for me I'll have to take from the 5th to the 15th off which I'm OK with. However my employees may not appreciate it. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Dude I gotta check this out, looks awesome


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

may be in the pics but, what subs will you be using in this? with six amps on that shelf and the need for backpacks and such, where will subs go?


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice work, nice SoundMonitor stuff....in for more


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Lycancatt said:


> may be in the pics but, what subs will you be using in this? with six amps on that shelf and the need for backpacks and such, where will subs go?


Subs are Eclipse 88100.6. There is 3 in the rear deck going IB. I already have had them up and running. Output was surprising and way to much. They are currently powered by an Eclipse 7122 but that is not staying. The sub amp is mounted on the cabin/trunk divider I made from aluminum. I'm only using 3 subs because two didn't look right in the rear deck.

There is only 3 Sound monitor amps. Two are two channel, one is a 4 channel. The other two things that look like amps are the power supplies for the amps. The power supplies can power two SM amps each and can handle about 500 watts. I was told by the repair guy they were 200 watts or better per amp. I have one bridged powering the TM65 2's, the 4 channel is running the Fountek 88's and Vifa tweets. I am going to be using rear fill eventually. 

I would be fabing up the doors, pillars, and dash already but I can't get everything working right to figure out if I even want to use those speakers. I have been messing with playability issues for 4-5 weeks now. First RCA's, then my Bluetooth and coaxial adapters, then noise. I got all that fixed and now the C-DSP is acting a fool. Been back and forth with Mini's support for two weeks trying to figure it out.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well my system has been playing for five or six weeks now. I like it. Been using the https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-bc25sc55-04-1-square-frame-tweeter--264-1024. I liked it but it is a little bright. I had the https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd16fa-6-5-8-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-025 sitting on the shelf so I figured I would try them out. I just threw them in the factory brackets, raised the crossover point and went to town.

A real simple fab. Just took off the factory brackets, reused the screws to hold a piece of abs plastic, and vecro'd the tweet to it.




Some xt60 connectors for quick and safe disconnects.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I didn't really like the Dayton's either. Almost to clear. I did listen on axis as well. They are way more accurate than I like. And not loud enough. So I am trying the Vifa's again. This time I decided to fiberglass them in. The design will allow for additional tweet swaps if (or as!) needed. I thought I would just make a clay mold and glass over it. Nope didn't work at all. Resin and mat didn't stick at all. 





So I went with conventional frame and cloth method.





Didn't get to the spreading resin yet.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I made some XLR cables for the amps. Sound Monitor used ITT Cannon connectors and Hitachi cable. The Hitachi cable is about $20 a foot so I'm not using it. I was able to source the connectors for a reasonable price.





I bought​ a soldering station as well.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I decided that the 6 disc changer is near useless to me. It's obsolete. It doesn't read burned disc well. It doesn't play DVDs, which I still use. And when I'm cruising on road trips I pop in WMA's of an artist's entire collection and go. I do not want to lose the ICD DTA combo look. 

I gutted the ICD in hopes to retain the face plate illumination and install a newer disc drive inside the chassis. I was successful in retaining the lights.







I already have a drive from an AVX5000 that does what I want and will line up with CD slot on the ICD. I just have to find a way to make the eject and remote eye work.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I mounted the 6x8 remote on the fuse access door.





Figured a way to mount the tablet without fiberglass and keeping it easily removable while retaining a acceptable look.



I just got rid of the vents, cut slots and dropped it in from the top. I'll put some decorative foam on the sides and bottom to hold snug, while limiting vibrations.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

We'll I got the resin to take a shape and harden! That's a victory for me. On my way to get some filler and get to sanding.


----------



## Swaglife81 (Oct 15, 2016)

I just read through this whole build when I stumbled across doing a search. Any updates since June. You did a great job documenting the build. Imo I wished more people would do their build logs like you. The before, during, after pics made it interesting


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been tinkering here and there. Nothing major to report. I installed a single din dash kit while I figure out the changer mod. Nothing really finished.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This is as far as I I for with the pods. Starting to take shape.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have had some free time the last week or two but I have been messing with my bike and work van. It got caught in a F2 Tornado. Apparently we do get tornado's in Buffalo. Blew out the glass, was sand blasted with stones, and some debris dented up the sliding door. Could have been way worse. Replacing glass and clean up has unfortunately taken up Maxima time!



Even though it don't like it in the pic the windshield has about 10 cracks as well.


----------



## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Oh no, awesome build though... good thing you are save.. !


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I had some issues with a turn on pop that I needed to track down. In the process I decided to run a dedicated usb cable to the front for the Minidsp and replace the rca's that I made. The one's I built were of good quality but they were to bulky and not flexible enough. I choose to get a 6 in one cable. I found Wet Sounds. At $70 they were not cheap but they are shielded, flexible, color coded, and the connectors have great grab. Couldn't ask for anything more. I can wrap this cable around a pen if I had to. 

Stock photo


Nicely color coded, with small ends


The best part of these. The last 3' split in to thin cables to run to the amps.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I re-routed the remote wire, 6-channel rca and usb down the center of the car. To the usb had the be run on the outside of the car before. Nobody likes that.



Nothing here...


4' of cable can be pulled out


Ignore the dirty carpet, mats, and seats. I have a complete new interior to go in when all this stuff is done.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I got rid of the rear Phass coaxials in favor of some Stereo Integrity TM65's. Hopefully I can get them to play nicely so they add some midbass. If not they just be lowered and unheard. The best part was that I forgot to run new speaker wire for the rear doors. Dummy. So I did that.



Some XT60 connectors



Some wasted money... Fast rings. Not useless but weatherstripping seems better. I already bought them so they are getting used.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I had all the power wires, speaker, and usb cables ran in the door sills. It fit but took up all the space in there. I never liked it from day one so I started over. 

Put some hockey tape to prevent chaffing










Nice and clean. The sub frame and carpet keep anything from hitting the cables even if you push on it. Now the sill plate is open for future accessory add-ons.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I need a safe car to carry all audio equipment so I upgraded the suspension and brakes. I believe I documented the Tokico's and H&R springs. Well I went to upgrade the brakes to Hawk pads and Stoptech rotors and found rusted struts. Only been on the car months which most were in a garage. Absolutely ridiculous.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I went with Tein Super Street Advanced coilovers with EDFC. They have stepper motors that adjust dampening based on user inputs settings in real time. With Tein the ride height can be adjusted basically by hand. I believe they can be lowered 2.5". I only went down about 1- 1/4".

Swapped out the tie rods while I was there.



Those matching green teeth looking things spin by hand (once loosened) down the black threaded sleeve.



Stepper motors


Motors installed 


This is the module that controls the motors. One for the front, one for the rear.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

There's a controller for the Tein EDFC that had to go in.


----------



## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Sweet! Great progress thank you for documenting your upgrades and taking pictures.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I needed a power source for the EDFC controller. As previously logged I had the fuzeblock distribution center in the dash under the radio. I never really liked it there. Cluttered up the wiring and a pain to get at. I decided to move it under the driver seat.

It was attached to that spot of Velcro. Everything looks more organized with it gone.



I had to add a bigger wire than it took so I just used a molex end as a reducer.




Makes for nice and smooth insertion and extraction. Who doesn't appreciate that?


I will clean it up later but now easily accessible.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

My fuse holderers were attached to the battery mounting bracket. It was so tight that accessing the lower one was impossible with removing the bracket. I decided to make a new mounting location out of aluminum that allows access. There's a little spot on the side of the battery where you can reach your hand in.



Well some dumba$# gave me the lying tape measure and I still can't access the one fuse!


So I'll be doing that again.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

As I went IB with the rear deck I had to take the middle shoulder strap seat belt out and make it a lap belt. My wife made it out of spare parts and factory thread and stitching pattern.



Mirror tinted the sun roof






Got a new set if factory 17's from a 02 Maxima. This allows me to upgrade to the bigger calipers and rotors from the 6th gen Maxima's via bolt on.



I was so impressed by the additional stopping power with the switch to Hawk's and Stoptech's that I thought bigger would be better! 

Mounted the dac in the now unused dash vent behind the tablet.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have never been satisfied with the pods I made. 3 sets and none made it to the sanding stage. Mostly because they seemed unprofessional to me. The last ones shaped up nicely but knowing it took me about 7 hours and 5 or six layers of crap to get them there upset me. They also weighed about 7 or 8 lbs. There had to be a better way. I decided to make two separate pods. Take the mids out of the door panels (it's ok I have another new interior) and put them on the dash (a pillar). I am putting the tweeter's in the sail panel. I also found out what materials more experienced people were using. Overwhelming I was told US Composites. I can tell you that I might as well have been shaping pods out of glazed brick with a plastic spoon before. Using chain store glassing products is that bad compared to the specialty retailer. It only took me about 30 minutes to get a lightweight form (plus dry time) opposed to hours the other ways. 

Always use protection





Initial mold





Clipped down to fit



Mouting ring attached and aimed 



This is the plan. The 3"pod is one I'm not happy with and just there to give me an idea of the look.


That's it for now.


----------



## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Looking good man. every time I'm on CL looking at cars I always look for 2001-2003 Maximas.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Notloudenuf said:


> Looking good man. every time I'm on CL looking at cars I always look for 2001-2003 Maximas.


Yep. I understand. Absolutely perfect cars for the price point. This is the second 5th gen I owned. I bought the first one off the lot and drove it for 255k. It was in perfect mechanical condition but I found rust in the uni-body when I went to paint it so I just gave it away because it made me so sad. My wife knew how much I missed that car and how I wanted another so she bought me this one as a kinda surprise gift. 

I may have mentioned that in this thread ready if so there's a recap.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Awesome choice on the struts ...i ran that exact set with EDC in my 2001 Prelude...i loved making the setting super plush on the highway...felt like a caddy....and then make it super stiff and i could take corners at like 90! Felt like driving a go kart!

I have a 2003 Max now also as a commuter car....love watching your tread to get ideas! never realized the calipers from a 6th gen were bolt on...wish i knew this a few months ago when i had to replace my calipers bc the rear froze


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Actually the rears have no commonly known bolt on upgrades. So you didn't miss out. There was a guy that made brackets years ago.


----------



## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Really cool stuff! Any updates?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have been fiddling here and there. Nothing serious. I have decided to dump the Sound Monitor HU until I can get it modded the way I want. I'm going to interface the mini controller with the factory HU for now. Still running tablet as a source. I probably won't do anything cool for at least a month.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

You have an amazing project here that is very close to my heart!

I definitely feel the Maxima love...even though I like other generations, 5th is my favorite. I was a senior in high school when that car came out, and it made a lasting impression!

So, a few years ago, I was super stoked to pick up an '03 5.5 gen with only 135k miles on it (for about $5k). It's in great shape - no rust (mostly garage kept), engine in good shape (driven only on Sundays, I'm assuming), tranny shifting smoothly, and getting about 25 mpg.

But, every time I go to work on her, I'm constantly reminded that my expectations for the car far exceed what I can 1.) afford and 2.) actually buy. Take, for example, all the rubber parts and plastic trim - the window seals, the mirror mounts, just look old. As you would expect for a 15+ year old car. When I look at these parts, I keep wanting them to look brand new!

I've searched, but it just doesn't seem like you can buy a direct replacement for these parts. You can attempt to restore them, and I've had some success using liquid silicone. 

If you have any tips for restoring these worn looking parts, I'll gladly take them!

Keep up the awesome work, and I can't wait to see more build pics.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Painting the mirror mounts would work great. As far as window trims and seals there is kits out there to buy. There's a manufacturer that does classics that made a kit. I just bought new oem mirrors for it last year. So they are around. Have you checked out Maxima.org ? A lot of info there. 

A fellow member is attempting the HU mod for me right now and I'm impatiently waiting for my 8x12 replacement board be for I finish the pods. Want to make sure I can get a good tune before I finalize the aiming. I have the new headliner material so I can fab that up. The snow is coming. That's a good thing when you have a heated garage. I lock it in there and get to work.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

I admit I'm not using the right search terms to narrow this stuff down, and I'm not asking you to Google it for me, but I am curious - who is the manufacturer that makes the classic kits? 

And yes, I've spent some time on maxima.org - definitely good stuff there. But, is it me or does it seem like the posts about 5th gens have really died off in the last 2-3 years?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Activity is low, but info is high. The guys that have most the answers still pop in every couple days and give her. Still an excellent resource. I can't recall the name but I have a bunch of stuff from them in the garage. If I remember I'll grab the name of the package.


----------



## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

Loved this car and now this thread. I considered buying it used but read stuff about the cat converter breaking up internally and sending crap into the engine. I didn't know how to buy one safely and didn't have - rebuild the engine levels of - play money if I got it wrong


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The cat converter is really a non issue. You can gut them or replace them when the sensor tells you. It's just people like to ignore stuff on low cost cars and the result can be internal engine damage. The first one I owned had 350k without replacing the cats.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

Agreed...the pre-cat issue only turns out bad for people who have all the information and warning signs and still choose to ignore it.

There are several known issues with the 5th gen's. And though it sounds weird to say it, that's actually a good thing. There is a wealth of knowledge of how to spot the warning signs of these issues before they get worse, and how to fix them.

My first job was to fix the camshaft position sensor, after it failed around 135k. With the help of online forums, I discovered this was a VERY common issue, and that I could easily replace it myself. They also recommended that I replace both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft position sensors. Buying the parts online and swapping themselves saved me at least $500! As a bonus, it also gave me a confidence boost to take on more projects with the car.

Like, maybe installing some custom headers from NISFormance someday...


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I guess I forgot to post the trunk mlv pics so here they are.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Another new addition to the trunk.



Some ******* backed into me at Ilio Diapalo's restaurant. Didn't bother stopping. Not to bad. Trunk lid is readily available and only a little damage to the structure.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

That sucks man. Hope it's a quick fix.

Also, I like the way you did the MLV in the trunk. Looks good, a whole sheet covering the fender gap.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I'm not worried about the top of the trunk. No one cares if sound escapes in the trunk nor if the sound rain falling on it comes in there. I just hit the floor and wheel wells with mlv to help with road noise. I did treat everything for rattles.

The trunk is fine. Really nothing to worry about. Just the assholes that aren't decent enough to stop and let you know. 

On an excellent note I just bought a full 20th anniversary body kit.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

That's funny you said that...I just saw it was for sale again on the ORG, figured you'd scoop it up. I'm kinda jealous!

But, I think I'll go with a Stillen Lip instead.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The oem body kit does take any ground clearance away whatsoever. That's why I like it. I'm only lowered 1 1/2" because Inlike to be able to pull in and out of driveway's.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I just got the Sound Monitor HU back from being updated and serviced. The amps are basically getting rebuilt currently. The updates are coming.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

:snacks:


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Got it tested, works better than it ever has. I popped in a really scratched up burned disc and it played it like it was a brand new CD. I also got to test out the auto sensing digital (toslink + coaxial) switcher I picked up. That thing works great as well. Switches quick, housing is very stout and unlike the cheasy ones everyone else has, and is very well constructed. Bought it through Tindie. Got to talk to the guy that made it. He made a couple mods at my request for no additional charge. It was 60 some bucks and I am very pleased.

The testing: 
Unit was repaired and serviced by Jeff P. He's the man. Very helpful. Took the time walk me through stuff and explain cost.


Yes that is a Victor Inox power supply. Where's Victor!

The very scratched burned disc this unit now plays effortlessly. Thanks Jeff!


----------



## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Maaaaaaaaan! I wanted the 20th Anniversary SE when I was fresh out of college soooo bad. Enjoying this build.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I'm about to purchase the ever rare Cattman Headers (probably today) and a supercharger later this summer. So it's about sound sweet, look sweet, and go fast.


----------



## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

Where the heck did you find a set of Cattman headers? 

I've kept my eye on this set for a while:

http://www.nisformance.com/NISformance-Headers-p/nisheaders.htm


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

bravesbaseball17 said:


> Where the heck did you find a set of Cattman headers?
> 
> I've kept my eye on this set for a while:
> 
> http://www.nisformance.com/NISformance-Headers-p/nisheaders.htm


A friend of a friend on the .org. they are used but in good condition. 

The nisformance stuff is pretty much all good. The headers seem great but damn that price.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This is what happens when you take forever on a build. You keep switching things. I'm going try out the Stereo Integrity M25 and M3. I had been using the M25 in my truck for a while. I like them. I had some M3's custom made.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I re-did the headliner with matching Naugahyde. There was nothing wrong with it I just hate cloth.



I left the cloth as a backer as I tried to pull it in a corner and couldn't.



Hit the sunroof cover as well.



The original cloth liner pulled off easily. I had scrape off the foam backing and fight with the adhesive. I had some 3M adhesive remover and it worked ok. Wipe it, wait, then scrape off relatively easily. I thought there had to be something better. Grabbed a can of Goof Off. Amazing! Spray and immediately wipe off with a cloth. Took about 2 minutes.



Hit top with a couple pieces of SDS tiles. I only have a few left :bigcry:



I used 3M headliner adhesive.



I also slapped some new fabric on the top. The bumps from the cld won't matter as it can never be seen. The sunroof is mirror tinted and the cover can't be closed with the glass open.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

While I was putting it back in I broke two of the guides. Of course they are part of the sunroof assembly which amazingly can still be purchased from Nissan for a measly $940. So I'm having them 3D printed. It's super upsetting because I've had the roof it off this thing basically since I owned it. It's all ready to go back in and I brake an essential piece. Here's the culprit 
. 

There's 4, I broke two. Having 4 made just in case.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Theslaking said:


> While I was putting it back in I broke two of the guides. If course they are part of the sunroof assembly which amazingly can still be purchased from Nissan for a measly $940. So I'm having them 3D printed. It super upsetting because I've had the roof it off this thing basically since I owned it. It's all ready to go back in and I brake an essential piece. Here's the culprit
> 
> .
> 
> ...


I think I'd have 12 of them made, you know you're gonna break more of them.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I had to get a band expander as the Sound Monitor has a Japanese tuner. I choose Electronics Development. Great reviews and they make the for auto makers. 



However I have never l liked the grounding through the antenna idea. This is a powered unit as well. I feel like that can add feedback to my HU. So I opened her up. 

Not sure if gut shots matter


I decided to solder in a longer power wire as well.




If you look you can see the metal case can contact and possibly damage the wires so I added some hockey tape and put it back together.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

ckirocz28 said:


> I think I'd have 12 of them made, you know you're gonna break more of them.


They are not fragile. I just didn't realize they could come off the track. I thought I was forcing the extra thickness of my upholstery and gave her quite the shove. SMH.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Some of the wiring was a mess still so I cleaned things up.



I put it to the front of the driver's seat. That cavity is naturally there under the carpet. I used some SDS Velcro to secure the Bluetooth adapter, 12v to USB stepdown, and the FuzeblocK's distribution. When I put the new carpet it I'll build a nice box in there. For now the weighted down flap will keep things from rolling on there.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The dash area as well. You can see the band expander tucked on the side before I modified it. Notice the short power wire. The Muse dac is tucked on the other side





All organized


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Theslaking said:


> They are not fragile. I just didn't realize they could come off the track. I thought I was forcing the extra thickness of my upholstery and gave her quite the shove. SMH.


Oops! I was suggesting compensating for Murphy's Law, it seems Murphy had nothing to do with it.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Got the new tires and rims on. They were supposed to be more low profile. Oh well. Next time.



Refreshed head unit is back in. Stole my son's bt speaker for temporary music.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Foamed up the back glass with high density spray foam. Trying to build up back for vinyl, stop rattles, and a final blocking off of the trunk.





Put some conduit in as pass-through's. Used some carpet protection plastic on the glass


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have the Bluetooth, Muse, and HDMI input all running digital coax in to the HU. I figured I'd let the stereo do what it was designed for. Convert digital signals into beautiful music. However it only has 2 digital inputs and one is dedicated to the disc changer. I needed a switcher. It was surprisingly difficult to find. I ended up having a guy make it through Tindie. It was perfect.
It has priority auto switching, 4 coax + 4 toslink + 1 rca inputs. It has a toslink and coax output, led indicators (which can be switched off) powered via 5v, and a nice case.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I am currently working on fiberglassing the tablet holder in along with the wireless charging pad.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I also had all the amps refurbished something like 300+ caps were replaced. Plus like 20 other things. I haven't even unpacked them yet.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Is that a Minidsp 8x12 remote integrated with the factory stereo circuit board?










LEDs in the factory board as well. 











The radio buttons will now control the DSP. They can also still control the FM radio and CD player (just in case). I am also adding Aptx Bluetooth and a USB port that will also be controlled by the radio via grom interface.

I absolutely love looking at the Sound Monitor 500 combo it's just to old to get don't what I need to without adding potential problems. This radio is just as old but there is more support in the sense of integration opposed to add-ons that just add links in the chain to break.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

There DSP main volume and mute control was relocated from the main board. The factory radio's volume knob had a push function as well. It's a very quick power down function so no need to be redundant. I also added a Bluetooth mic to the dash bezel. Set the Minidsp knob away from passengers fiddling hands.










First time working with data/phone cables. I never realized how easy it was. I the connectors as quick releases. Used the factory switch blank.










Soldered RJ12 6p6c cable in.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Re-made the factory speaker wire harness to go directly in to the Minidsp high level. Eliminated everything but speakers and turn on. It had everything for the amps, speakers, and subwoofer. I left the extra pins for now just in case I read the fsm wiring diagram wrong. I won't be able to test it with the DSP for a while.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I bought some of those install bay/metra silicone speaker protectors. The NVX version got a lot of press on here lately.




























And found something awful.










The white end of the black wire is corrosion. I started nipping the end. Went back about 10" and still found corrosion. It's all the way through, like wires crumble to nothing. So I'll be doing all the speaker wires again. F&$k Audiopipe wires!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This a picture of beautiful mess. I started ripping everything out to replace those corroded speaker wires. I was thinking that when I tested the harness I made for high level to DSP the voltage didn't change with the volume knob. I started to get worried that the hu used some sort of data wire to control the volume. So I hooked stuff up real quick. Those levels on the 4 input tabs are beautiful. Fade, balance, and volume all work. Most importantly the 8x12 works after all the fiddling with the remote.









The most important part of this pic is that the cars in the garage. That means stuff is happening again.


----------



## farfromovin (Mar 30, 2011)

Some super trick mods going on here. Very cool build, and yes, the important thing is the car is in the garage!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

That's funny. I actually need one for the car. Everything is coming out. I'm working on the final trunk build now. Plus I have to swap trunk lids still.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

So I've always used 3M headliner adhesive. I have never even had a bubble develop that I remember. Well it failed now. Not sure if it was the Naugahyde backing or what. So I didn't even get to post pics of the headliner and sunroof cover in. Everything is back out. I bought some Weldwood Landau you and spray gun. Won't be coming off again.

I also decided I'm ditching the tablet.
Like the Sound Monitor hu just not enough support for new features. Only Huawei and they lost American support.

I'm going all in on Raspberry pi. I've mentioned in here before my son was working on it last year. He got it working. Now I'm taking over to get it run on 4G and eventually use Nissandatascan.









Sits nicely in clocks spot.










I'll modify the clock bezel to hold it.










There's plenty of room under the dash for any Pi hats and it's directly on the HVAC trunk line. So it will be climate controlled.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm diggin' the wiring mods!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

BP1Fanatic said:


> I'm diggin' the wiring mods!



It's all because I decided to keep the factory look. Well at least the last and biggest straw in the pile.

I always liked the smooth and simple look of the gray dash in these cars. It doesn't seem cheap at all in person. I had one with the wood grain trim and I like this more. That's the main another big reason I decided against the tablet today. I just like how the factory vents make a nice smooth transition to the dash.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I'm also having 3 SW8000 subs rebuilt to better suit a IB install. The fins match the Sound Monitor amps so they will go together nicely in the trunk. I plan on using a flat piston cone that matches the SI's I have in the doors. 



[ATTACH







type="full"]274660[/ATTACH]


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice sub


----------



## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

i hope you can make it to an NCSQ meet so i can hear this iteration.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Notloudenuf said:


> i hope you can make it to an NCSQ meet so i can hear this iteration.


Me too!

I made it down the first year I had this car. Then a big baseball tournament fell on the meet weekend two years in a row. I still don't know why Jason doesn't plan around my kids schedules. Must not have liked the coffee and dogs I brought down.  

If it happens this year I should be there.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well it's begun!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This little bt keyboard is sweet. The mouse pad works well l, it's backlit, has a rechargable lith-ion, and was only $15.


----------



## CrimsonCountry (Mar 11, 2012)

Nice! I love those little pads and the track pad is necessary imo for a Pi/CarPC setup. I've been through 2 or 3 as they seem to burn out after a while but they're so cheap who cares.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I spent about 12 hours messing with the RPi OS's. Installing and installing the different systems. What I have found is I want Android and by far the best version for Android is Lineage 17.1. It runs extremely smooth and all the apps except one I tried from the play store work.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Things are getting crazy now. I got a base hat and 4G module from Sixfab. I applied for my developer license from Verizon so I can use my device on their network (it was quite simple and took two minutes). I found out the RPI4 only work with HDMI monitors. I had to buy another. The one above was The RPI 3b my son setup. I moved away from that because I wanted more ram. I bought a Tenzio capacitive touch for $40. The Sixfab 4G hat, antenna, and module were $60. Fans and heat $15. So the whole tablet style setup with internet is only $175. I'm definitely happy with that. I was going to spend 450+ on the Huawei.

I've had no real issues yet except I can't get the touchscreen to work yet. I've only tried a couple things. The apps run perfectly on Lineage. I'm going to run the fans on gpio and set it to turn on at a certain temp. I got some resistors and such.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice!


----------



## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

What are you planning to do / what can you get from this setup that you can't get from off the shelf units? I like everything I'm just curious what your final goal is.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

1, the tablet is not limited to the factory radio location. 

2, the software is always upgradable. 

3, the hardware is upgradable too.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

There is no high powered tablets other than Huawei. Yes I bought the latest Samsung (last year's) and it was slow. They have lost Google support and thier current OS while in it's infancy sucks. 

I use Verizon which their tablets don't work on so it's an inconvenience to have an account, even pre-paid somewhere else. 

I am going to be tuning this car. I want to be able to run windows programs and Android. Mainly Nissan DatascanII and Minidsp. I can because you can USB boot an OS with RPI. 8gb ram is more than some laptop's. This thing is fast. Although boot time is slow like a Kenwood double din! I also have it in the back of my mind to make my car voice controlled. My old Eclipse commander unit could control some functions via voice. It is a great novelty to roll down windows by command. With the pi it's possible to program most power functions. Even radio via steering wheel control which now work again because I'm going this route!

Most importantly cosmetics. When I fab'd up the tablet holder and had the Sound Monitor HU in it took away from the car's character. I never liked it but was going to deal with it. When I start realizing how much adapters and splicing I had to do to get the functionality I needed it was no longer worth it.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I haven't forgotten about this this time just been waiting on Verizon. They just got back to yesterday. I did start to fab up the monitor holder.

Started with a few blocks of dense floral foam glued together with spray glue.










On the factory clock bezel










You can see the full clock bezel on the left.



















A layer of resin applied










Cutting up factory parts


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Test fit



















Shaped with some milkshake mix.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The sub parts are all in and the building has begun.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I got the raspberry pi 4G lte to work. I'm now RPI mobile!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Still moseying along. 

Finally got the touch function working on the good hdmi screen. I was frustrated to the point of throwing it through the window. In the end it was the power in had to be connected to the host when using the touch function. When using as a monitor an external power is fine. 

Got Tidal and navigation app. Also trying out the Hifiberry output.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Got the phone/wireless charger holder 3D printed. 










The charger fits in that notch. 










Ignore the sloppy notch cut out, prototype.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Subs are done and home. Dual layer 8.5", spider, 3" aluminium coil, 1" tall surrounds (gives 3/4" more cone diameter than the rubber surround), and the sexy flat carbon fiber cone. We had a single 4ohm coil and my buddy turned it into a 1ohm dvc. Lots of wiring options there. It created a little wiring issue. Could no longer use the factory terminals and he didn't want to modify the beautiful basket so he just hardwired and roughly ran it through the factory terminal holes. I have a beauty panel in mind already. The thought is they will handle at least 1500w.

Buckled in for the ride home.




















It's hard to say good-bye to LMS coils.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Pretty subs! Did you measure for T/S parameters?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Pretty subs! Did you measure for T/S parameters?


Yeah but it was done in Bass Box Pro and I don't have that program to open it. If someone does here's here's the file. Open it and post a pic please.

Nevermind, Google won't let me share this file type.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Pulled out the DatsV2.










Excuse the mess. 3 projects going on at once. One of them pissed me off so I took a break and measured the subs.

In parallel









You may notice that's not a D1 coil as thought. Hmmm.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

49.8hz is high for a SUBwoofer. They still look pretty tho'!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I was initially thinking the same thing. Do we care? The ability to dig down really amounts to moving air and a stiffer suspension to control it helps. These subs are stiff as heck and have over 20 mm one way xmax. It seems like high fs means nothing of you have power and movement.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Good points!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I test fit them and they didn't fit. 
With the new surround being an 1" taller I can't get it past the window without folding. It took a little force to get then in before and I never gave a thought to the fact I was making them taller. SMH.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I then set the sub in the shelf and just happen to look at a screw that reminded me TC Sounds was frickin awesome! 

My subs go in to two pieces.


























Man did I ever get lucky.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I have nothing else hooked up but I threw power to the subs and the spl is beyond impressive without even being really sealed up. I would guess at 138+. To much really but most of still have a couple minutes of basshead in us every once in a while. 😁

My initial impression on how it is going to sound musically is not great. However it's not really sealed, it doesn't have midbass to match up to, and I was playing music directly from my phone using only the amps crossover. I'm going to leave my opinion at impressed until I get a proper install.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice subs!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Spent 5 hours today watching football and braiding wires. Only got the driver side done. I used 18 tffn wire. 2 strands for the mids and tweets. 3 strands for the mid bass. I guess learning how to do cats cradle, boondoggle, and braiding to impress girls in middle school has finally paid off in my adult life!










No I don't think some magic fairy came down and sprinkled acoustical dust on the wires that created a forcefield that protects the signal from noise and only lets quality audio signals pass because the wires are arranged in a criss cross pattern. I just think it looks cool and unique to car installs.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)




----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Finally figured out a proper looking monitor mount. The fiberglass box I made to fit turned out nice just wasn't perfect for me. It looked out of place so I moved on. Glad I did. As soon as I put it in I just thought it looked like it belongs.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I'm taking the front battery out to make room for a super charger and replacing it with two physically smaller ones in the spare tire well. Some may have seen my battery thread. I'm using 2 XS750's in place of the main battery. 

I tried it out.










It started the car 4 times without time running in between. Didn't want it to charge any. Pretty impressive for a battery with a 3x7x7" footprint. You can see I could fit 4 in the original battery tray. I'll be using 2 in parallel in the trunk.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice! What SC are you getting?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Probably a Ripp off an Eclipse. It's really a piece together deal with these cars. I'm not 100% sold on that though. I may still do a swap with 2016+ maxima 3.5 engine and a turbo. Lots of people have turbos that's why my first choice is the sc.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

[email protected], it looks it would work for most FWD V6 DOHC. I like how it's a centrifugal SC.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

That pic shows exactly why I need to get rid of the battery.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

My battery is in the same location.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I got a test run in for the batteries. I used a 100 amp fuse to the front. I am kinda wondering if I should upgrade my 1/0. If I blow a 100amp fuse I will.

It started better than it ever has. 

Everything is sloppy but safe.










The front. Still haven't figured out how I'm doing this.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

This should make it easier to re-install my subs.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)




----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Got the monitor mount fab'd up completely.
It took all those tools.










Painted with sem texture, color, and clear










I didn't want to look through the windshield and see that gray metal on the back of the monitor and I didn't want to just spray a touchscreen so I just said F-it and took it apart.










Back came off nice and easy. Mocking up a screen protector. 

















Hit the clips that allow the screen to be removable.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Back together










I got super lucky. Those 5 little holes are for the monitor bracket. Awefuly close to sharing the same hole on the bottom! 










This is how it will look in the car without the screen.










It looks together!











I easily have 80 hours in to figuring out this screen. Just learning to code for the RPI so I could know if it would do what I wanted it to was a couple days. So yeah this is why good installers (that's not me) charge the big bucks.

I can tell you one thing. I'm very happy with this as of now. I have test fit it and it's perfect. 3 or 4 fiberglass housings, modified abs holders, 3 or 4 versions of this mount, but I got something I can live with.

The end goal was easily removable for security, place to discreetly put a dash cam, easily install/try other monitors if needed, and not look out of place. Success.


----------



## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Looks really good man 👍


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

DeLander said:


> Looks really good man 👍


Thanks to you. 😉


----------



## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

very nice!


----------



## CrimsonCountry (Mar 11, 2012)

Looking good bud! I can appreciate the time it takes to fine tune any out of the ordinary setups for a seamless integration in the car. I spent way more time than I had planned for my PC setup and that didnt even involve coding and such to configire like yours as its Windows. Can't wait to see the final product.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Unbelievably it's flat.










Finish/beauty 










Subs will end up flush mounted. I'm going to cover it in vinyl. It covers the seat belts and trunk arms. Will make it look nice and smooth. The factory rear deck was very busy with no less than 8 protrusions.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

WOW


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Spent a little bit of time seeing how it looks together. Wrapped the ribbon cable in some Techflex. Slapped a grommet in for the GPS and 4G antenna's. Overall I'm satisfied with the way it looks through the windshield. The black visually makes sense because the steering wheel and such are black. It looks a little busy but I believe it's the best I can do with the constraints I set for myself. I didn't adhere the antenna's yet.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

If anyone is paying attention you may recall I repaired the Joying 4G antenna's. I went away from them because they took up to much space on the bezel. I found that square combo antenna.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

And it's rough final look.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

NICE!!!!!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Been moseying along.

Filled the ends with resin and milkshake. Actually took about 10 oz per end so a few applications. Taped from lip to lip so it took the shape of the glass.



















I found out the silver part between the baffle and trunk was flexing. It's not structural. The plywood I installed goes underneath. At least a couple layers. It's shaped like a stair and the 90° part was collapsing on itself. I had to find a way to fill it so it was stiff. On the advice of US Composites I used a semi-structural 2 part 4lb expanding foam. It worked better than expected. This stuff expands about 10x! It's so dense it rolls right in to every gap without getting stuck on itself while expanding like box store canned foam.










I broke off the excess and I could stand on it without crushing it. This stuff is stout.
However it is easily tooled.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Filled the top of the foam with resin and milkshaked the rest. I need that part to be tough. 









Sanded with 160. Don't care about pin holes in such as I'll be covering with vinyl and using a backer.










I put a little curve to it. Hopefully the space between the glass will look uniform now.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

A beautiful mess. Believe it or not I didn't remember that the front wasn't mlv'd. O haven't driven this car but 50 miles in the last few years so I didn't have a chance to notice the noise.

Getting rid of the corroded speaker wires.










With the new factory integrated HU I will be getting rid most the wires running to the back. All I need is a toslink and a phone cable now.

One door speaker rewired. Now using Powerpole connectors.



















Tweeter and mid wires to the dash now.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Oh I did round over the speaker cut outs. By hand no less. Couldn't get the router on the back. Cleaned up the inside of the holes as well.










Just about ready for covering.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I scuffed the paint a bit sanding so I painted and clear coated it real quick.











Got the backer on as well.










In between I have been working on the rewiring. I never thought the phillips screws in the Fuzeblock made sense. Why do I have to pull out a tool to check a fuse? So I remedied that.

Grabbed some pc thumb screws that had the same thread.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

What are you connecting to that Fuze Block?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

BP1Fanatic said:


> What are you connecting to that Fuze Block?


The add-on electronics. The secondary HU, USB chargers, The Tein suspension control, etc


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

About ready to throw the glass back in.

The vinyl is about a 90% match to the dash. If you look from inside with the same lightning you can not notice the difference.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I tested the strength of the rear deck. I climbed on and jumped up and down. I mean when does anyone get the chance to do that? It passed with flying colors. None of my fill cracked and it didn't seem to flex at all.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I threw some plasti-dip on the inside of the cut out. I haven't procured the material I'm finishing the trunk with so I picked a neutral material and color.



















Their final resting place.










That C pillar trim panel fits well (it's not snapped in). I was lucky yet again. I tested it when I rough fit the beauty panel. Well I neglected to check again until I finished the vinyl. A little to late to fix it. And well it didn't fit. However I was able to peel the ends and chip out a bit of the wood. In the end I believe it will look better now that the trim is kinda countersunk.


----------



## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Looking incredible! I'll have to have a listen when it's all done lol

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

You certainly can.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

That rear deck looks tight as h3ll!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Thanks.

I also put the deposit down on the supercharger kit and ordered the cat back stainless exhaust from BRM.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Those VQ's do sound nasty opened up! You should hear them with individual throttle bodies. I've heard a few Z's when the SCCA Run Offs were at Mid-Ohio road course. Only thing that sounded better was V12 Lamborghinis.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I don't mind that deep sound but I honestly hate how most civics and suby's sound. I went with an 18" resonator, muffler, and high flow cat to keep it tame.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I do prefer the VW flat 4 sound over the Subie.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Well I got stuff

BRM stainless. Cattman headers and y-pipe.










I had v-bands welded on.










I got the Cattman stuff ceramic coated. I'll eventually get the entire exhaust coated.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I moved the Fuzeblock to an even more accessible location.

Zip tied a mounting plate to the steering column and ran all the wires from the seat to here.










Utilizing Resonix Velcro










Labeled and cleaned up.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Started the permanent battery relocation.

New engine distribution 










Techflexed some 0/1 and ran it to the alternator area.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I've been waiting for my Red Lion body mount bushings to arrive. In the mean time I had the mounts and mounting brackets ceramic coated.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Been working on my brother's 2008 Nissan Versa.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I got one of those as a rental car once. They're actually pretty good especially for the price new.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I can't stand CVT's. My father bought 2 of them, 1 for himself and my brother back then. My stepmother is driving the blue now. I've put in work on that car too. I had to replace the front bumper and the windshield washer reservoir. My brother's car needs a new bumper too. He jacked it up in our parent's driveway!


----------



## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Just read through most of your build. Great stuff 

How do you like the Tein EDFC Active suspension? Have you had any issues with it?

I’ve been tossing around the idea of getting one of their “Active Pro” kits myself. I’ve read nothing but good things about it, but there aren’t a ton of reviews out there.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I really like the edfc. It makes a noticable difference hammering it around all the back roads.


----------



## Tommy27 (Jul 27, 2021)

Theslaking said:


> I have been looking for one of these cars for a while. I would have preferred the 6spd but only seen a couple over the last few years. Never seen the 6spd for a reasonable price. So 5 gears it is. The car has 168k looks and drives like it has 30k. I buy a couple cars a year for fun and this is the first time I actually had service records from day one. I've had a few people offer over the years but never took them up on it. Well I got them with this car and I read through them all. It was pretty cool to have a timeline. Almost nothing has needed to be done. All the matinence and wear and tear stuff. The biggie is all the clutch parts, struts and springs, and engine gaskets have been replaced within the last 32k. I paid less then 4000 for it. I bought it last Friday and have put over 1000 miles on it already. Love the car.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had an old friend bough a SER 6sp one after his ser senta got smashed. Gave him all kinds of crap at first but after I drove the car and for the price he paid at that time. It was a neat little car that had a little bit of power. Enough to make the car fun and a semi sleeper for the idiots who thought their 4 banger with the fart can was a race car


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I would love an ser tranny. 
A 5th gen max just ran an official 10.6 1/4 mile and they consistently get 12's. So yeah with a couple mods they are fast.
They'll never be race cars though. Nothing to be done about the rear suspension.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I did get the engine mount bushings from Red Lion racing pressed into my ceramic coated mounts.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

How is the company called RED Lion Racing yet the bushings are black?????


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Probably so people by more. I doubt red would sell as well. We'll have to ask ES if red or black sells better.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I guess they need to separate themselves from Energy Suspension bushings.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

If anyone cares this is why I haven't worked on the car. You can also see my kids just threw insulation on my new interior. 😡










We had an unplanned gutting of our house start about 5 months ago. Went to change a light fixture and found charred plaster. Decided to fix that wiring and found a mess of modern and knob & tube wiring improperly meshed together. I couldn't feel safe any longer now knowing it was not safe if anything ever shorted or arced. Since the house is over 200 years old it had plaster and lathe walls which meant a full gut job. Also decided to leave the original beams exposed and put the painted drywall on top of the ceiling joists. That meant I had to insulate the attic like a cathedral ceiling. All this while rewiring the house and upgrading the service.










So the car has been in the garage for months straight but I haven't had the time to work on it


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I did get something shiny though.










A supercharger plate.


----------



## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Respect for this entire build. Hell yea man


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Respect for this entire build. Hell yea man


And thank you fine sir.


----------



## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

I loved the 2000(ish) Maxima so much...darn near pulled the trigger on a White 2001 SE Anniversary Edition in my early 20's.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Should have. My first one had 450k on the original drivetrain.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

New ideas. I'm going to need gauges to monitor boost, afr, egt, etc. I think gauge pods look cheesy. Even the nice ones. I have the Joying screen but I don't want to lose my infotainment if I need to mess with my mechanical stuff. So I decided to use an aftermarket screen/dash.

I think the Haltech are to "loud". In my research I found Onegauge. I emailed them and got a response immediately. They walked me through some ideas, including some products that weren't theirs. It turns out using the Raspberry Pi4b I bought for this build would be the cheapest and best was to do what I want.

Verified I could get Tunerstudio up and running.










I didn't want a second screen either. So I decided to replace my dash cluster. I planned on trying out a 3D printed dash but after busting out my extra cluster to see if it was printable I realized I could just make it myself with a little fiberglass work.




















Part of my journey will be to get these dummy lights to function normally.



















Concept










Realized how much better it would look if I could keep those fuel and temp gauges on the outside. Would really tie in the factory look.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Doesn't look to complicated. Resistor here some solder there...










Cut out and drilled some holes for grip.










Built a border to get general shape. I then dumped some resin and strand around.










Drilled a bunch more holes and used a milkshake mix for it's self leveling properties.










The theme comes to light.


----------



## naiku (May 28, 2008)

That's awesome. Can't wait to see that finished and installed.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

WORD!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)




----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Any empty garage with my max in between my work truck and the stump grinder. I can hear it begging to come in!










I got my house mostly together but right after I got this project for my wife.










It's beautiful. Completely corrosion free. Garage kept NC car. Wasn't even dirty underneath.I redid the seats in leather, carpet, brake system, added a Joying hu, refurbished all the switches and buttons, gutted the steering column and replaced all the moving parts with new, and many other little things. There's going to be a build log when I get to the full stereo system. I just got it out of the garage in time to pull my bike in for a complete go through. Valve adjustment, coolant flush, the works. Just finished that an hour ago. About to get the Max in here.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

It made it in. Unfortunately the vinyl didn't make it.










I have no idea why. The back window is mirror tinted so it didn't take direct sun. I'm glad I procrastinated. If not I would have had the back glass in. I immediately started taking out.

You can see the neoprene backing held well.



















At least I'm wearing the correct shirt.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Took me about 7 hours to get here. Things are about to get crazy, again. Hopefully for the last time on this part. I drilled about 50 holes and I am going to resin, mat, and paint. There's still some hardened mat in those corners. If a hammer and chisel barely chip it out it's strong enough to stay.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

If someone has an opinion.....

Should I do a coat of resin over the baffle surface or will sanding the wood and paint give me the same result?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Started build up, again.










The Rage Gold is so easy to sand I don't mind just dumping it all over.

View attachment 356757


Had to smooth over the entire deck after chiseling everything off.










One final dump










Texture coat.










Redo complete.


----------



## saltyone (Feb 2, 2019)

Damn, that looks sweet!


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The site didn't load those above pics correctly. Weird. I wanted to get my IB closer to true IB so I cut another vent hole on the opposite side of the factory. The holes are pretty big. 10x6" that's 120" of "port". That should be pretty close to a non pressurized trunk space. Just grabbed an extra vent off eBay and my sawzall.

Cut










Painted edges










Done. You can see my little trick to hold wires. Neo magnet.


----------

