# 2013 Camry XLE - Infinity Kappa Perfects, Adire Audio, Helix



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

If you're reading this now( April 2021)... this has changed a lot but I'm leaving this original post as is.

Hey all.
I finally made an account after lurking for a bit, and I'm about to start the build on my camry. I saved up ~650 total, and only spent 480 on the core bits and pieced with the recent ebay 15%. I also didn't want to replace the HU since the iDL stuff is stupidly expensive for my broke self.

Equipment:
-AudioControl LC7i
-Infinity REF-6530CX(fronts)
-Infinity REF-9632ix(rears)
-KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 4 channel
-Another 50 feet of speaker wire(12 gauge)
-Precision Power iON i520.4 Amp
-Related speaker harnesses for the HU
-Related speaker adapters

Hopefully I'll have photos of the planning bits today. I do want a sub and sound deadening. Originally was going to get stuff from Sound Deadener Showdown but with only ~150 left for now, I've held off, and I sent an email over ~New Years asking for some guidance.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Cool... another Camry build. Subscribed :thumbsup:

For the acoustic treatments: The best bang for the buck (IMHO) would be to treat the front doors with some CLD/butyl rope, and seal up the large openings in the inner door skins with some sheetmetal or plastic panels.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Truthunter said:


> Cool... another Camry build. Subscribed :thumbsup:
> 
> For the acoustic treatments: The best bang for the buck (IMHO) would be to treat the front doors with some CLD/butyl rope, and seal up the large openings in the inner door skins with some sheetmetal or plastic panels.


Yeah. I'm probably going to do this sometime *after* I manage to not bodge up the actual speaker install.

I just pulled out most of the center console, and I realize that I have a *lot* less space than I thought to mount the lc7i/crossovers due to the A/C vent, so I'm back to the drawing board. I think I'll be able to mount the crossovers in up behind the glovebox/steering wheel fine, it's the LC7i that I might move under one of the front seats. Planning on slapping the amp under the passenger.

Maybe 16 feet of RCA was a bad idea.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

OK, time for an update.
I managed to do a few things today:
-Make a harness to connect the HU to the LC7i. This involved two 24 foot reels of 16 awg wire, one for positive, one for negative. I could have used the 12 gauge from Knu, but I only have 50 feet of normal wire and 25 of karma speaker wire. I underestimated the amount of wire I needed. I actually got two rolls of each, used two up, and now have two basically new ones sitting around. I did have to make a ground for the antenna, and that took ~3 feet.

The metra adapters were fine. The Scosche stuff I ordered was crap. It fits loosely for the main power/front side on the head unit, and the rear speaker connector got stuck in the headunit.

I've put the lc7i under the drivers seat.

I also ran the amp power wire. I used the passenger grommet, since I'm putting this amp under the passenger seat. I couldn't get my hands in the right position for the drivers side grommet so I basically said screw it and used the passenger one.


As of right now nothing is permanently installed, ie bolted down. Still working out the finer points.


I have a few photos but my post count isn't high enough


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hit that 5 post count. Here's the photos for the last post.










Current 4AWG Cable Run

















The "harness" to the LC7i










Planned amp location


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Nice start!

Do you have plans for mounting the amp? I’m interested to see how you go about it.

Something easy that I’d recommend you try out - get your front speakers set up first and try them out without your rears hooked up. I fought with myself about keeping my rear deck speakers for a long time, but one I disconnected them my system sounded much better.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Chris12 said:


> Nice start!
> 
> Do you have plans for mounting the amp? I’m interested to see how you go about it.
> 
> Something easy that I’d recommend you try out - get your front speakers set up first and try them out without your rears hooked up. I fought with myself about keeping my rear deck speakers for a long time, but one I disconnected them my system sounded much better.


Hey.
For now I've literally just used some industrial strength velcro I had laying around. BUT I do plan on making a rack out of wood or plastic/metal. I know some people have velcro'd amps down, and I feel it's a good solution for now, if not versus bolting it straight to the car. I'm not bolting it yet because I have yet to check if I will hit anything under the car, and I still have the warranty on this car since it was a CPO, and I'm avoiding doing anything permanent, ie leaving stock wiring intact and simply running my stuff alongside it.


As far as the rears, I actually just installed them today. I forgot to take a picture of them in the deck, but I did make a "comparison" photo between the old and new rears.









I just realized the poor quality of the photo.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Turb0Yoda said:


>


Interesting - the headunit has "Harmon" on it. Does your vehicle have the JBL system?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

No. It Does not.

The Harman also surprised me, as I thought, on the non-JBL cars, it was a panasonic or other unit.

That said, this car has about every addon minus the JBL and the factory spoiler, although that might not have any affect on it.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Sorry for going dark on this one.
Between being sick and my phone dieing, I have no way to take photos.
I'll try to upload pictures when I get a new phone sometime next week. I'm not done yet, since the lc7i's GTO wasn't working and I need to wire a remote out from the Head unit now.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So...
quick update. I ended up returning the LC7i thinking my remote was faulty, and bought a used 360.2 for.. 80 bucks.. Turns out I was hooking into the wrong fuse.

My current setup is a complete mess, and I've been working on cleaning it up. Between school, work, and me being sick as hell most of the time, I've gotten little done.

Currently fabbing up tweeter mounts with a friend's 3D printer; right now I just ziptied the tweeters in the stock spot.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to ground the amp somewhere other than the seat bolt, since it's a crappy ground.

This is the woofer mounted up. When I eventually get around to doing sound deadening, I will be using silicone to help with any unevenness... I might have forgotten to do that on one side.


























I know someone commented that my unit was Harman. I have no idea why, but here's some info I pulled from the diagnostics menu.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I now understand the difference between left and right on setting gains and have fixed the static issue...


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## No ConeSS (Aug 26, 2015)

Turb0Yoda said:


> Current 4AWG Cable Run


Do you happen to have any pics of where you ran the power wire through the firewall (or however you got the power from the batter to inside)?


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

No ConeSS said:


> Do you happen to have any pics of where you ran the power wire through the firewall (or however you got the power from the batter to inside)?


I think most of use 7th gen camry owners use the grommet on the passenger side firewall:


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hey, sorry for the late reply.
I did indeed use that grommet that truthhunter mentioned, although not as eloquently as in that photo...

Currently need to work on mounting the front left crossover in a better place and amp "racks" for the DSP and amp... Although given the amount of workload from uni it might take a bit for an update.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

"A bit of time" Indeed.
I've basically finished off the build, but I haven't done much in the way of a log. I don't think I'll have much time this summer as I'm starting an internship in two days. That said, I did make a cost breakdown.










From where I left of...
-Got 3sixty.1 all hooked up to the PPI
-Got the rear deck speakers in
-Everything calibrated

What needs to be done:
-Finishing the sub install.










The duct tape is my crude attempt at humor, the amp itself is screwed in. Everything is ran but the ground.


Hopefully when I get around do doing the custom stuff such as the amp/dsp racks and the tweeter mounts I'll update, and make a "proper" guide with all the photos I took. Unfortunately, between classes and extra-curricular kicking my arse, and some maladies that have taken me, I have little strength of of now to do much physical work.


The last steps of this, should I ever get to it, is sound deadening and getting a better DSP eg Helix Mini... My on a budget lost it's meaning it seems.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Turb0Yoda said:


> "A bit of time" Indeed.
> 
> I've basically finished off the build, but I haven't done much in the way of a log. I don't think I'll have much time this summer as I'm starting an internship in two days. That said, I did make a cost breakdown.
> 
> ...


Dont ever use the word budget in this. I had a set budget of about 2500 bucks. And now im going on about 7k. Budget isnt even a word

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Am I dead? No.
Do I feel like I am? Yes.

Dunno where the hell I left off, but I ended up buying knu knoise kolossus at some point... and a new headunit. Went with the DMX905S as it ended up to 350 post tax for me and has Android Auto, Maestro, and a Resistive touch screen. Happy with it except for the metra dashkit with looks and feels like crap.


HU:
OEM, Metra Dash kit, and the new.










Funky looking dude.










She's going in.









Basically in.










What I really don't like is the look, feel, and the fit around the A/C controls... I'm thinking of taking a dremel to it and making some space.



Knu:

Front Door Card before:











Front Door Card after:
I added a lil more after this photo.











Rear Door Card before:

MIA... 


Read Door Card after:











Trunk Lid Before:










Trunk Lid After: 
I added a lot more here after but forgot to take a pic..










Current SD-3 box:










I'm going to seal the holes in the door and knu the trunk even more soon... and a box hopefully this week, although given the current speed of everything... we'll see. Overall extremely happy with the knu. I took a few videos of the before and after on some bits but my phone did it little justice.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

This is very much a learn as I go experience... I might have skimped on the doors a bit but it's insane to work outside in SoCal, def got woozy/sick from working in the heat so I'm lacking on photos.


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## saltyone (Feb 2, 2019)

Try doing anything outside in Louisiana 7 or 8 months out of the year. I don’t want to hear anyone complaining about “Southern California”...LOL. Suck it up and drink Gatorade...screw water. Don’t hate on your stuff or work because you believe someone will judge you. Some folks may give your tips along the way, but no one will hate on you. 

We all started off just like you, and you’re actually off to a much better start than I was 30 years ago. Take your time and try to do it right the first time. It doesn’t take $7,500 for a system to sound great if it’s installed correctly and tuned a little. Keep going man!


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Before of the trunk:










After I decided to stop for the day because I realized I have work:










Making slow progress, I have ~2.5 sheets of knu left


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I ended up sealing the doors with the mound of knuknoise I had left over...
What an insane world of a difference. The entire system as a whole sounds so much better and cleaner.



















My next step is to figure out what bloody harness I need for the rear view camera... Maestro instructions were useless, and I don't seem to have the traditional reverse camera harness that I thought I had... Worst case I'll wire in an aftermarket camera although that's a drastic last measure.

Trying to find time to build two sub boxes(stackfab). With the announcement of the SD-4, I'm planning on picking up a second one(under the assumption the sd-3 will drop price to clear inventory). If not, probably the next stage of sound deadening, mlv+ccf or similar.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Turb0Yoda said:


> My next step is to figure out what bloody harness I need for the rear view camera... Maestro instructions were useless, and I don't seem to have the traditional reverse camera harness that I thought I had... Worst case I'll wire in an aftermarket camera although that's a drastic last measure.


Did you get the Maestro RR? 

If so, here are the instructions for your car. Let me know if you need help. It’s easy to get frustrated, but overall it’s an easy process.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hi Chris,
I do have the maestro. I actually have the factory screen, and my instructions say to splice in. However, the harness that I have, the pins are on the right side, not the left as maestro claims. I tried splicing in using posi-taps to no avail


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Turb0Yoda said:


> Hi Chris,
> I do have the maestro. I actually have the factory screen, and my instructions say to splice in. However, the harness that I have, the pins are on the right side, not the left as maestro claims. I tried splicing in using posi-taps to no avail


Very weird, sorry to hear you’re having trouble.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah, I've no clue what to do, and plan to call/chat maestro/crutch for an answer at some point this week.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Well,
Maestro hasn't given me a full answer, and email coms died, going to have to call them after the long weekend...
I did use up the last of my knu on the rear deck in an attempt to stop an annoying rattle back there.


























Put some on the third brake light and some tesa tape to help with the rattle.

















A quick test didn't have any rattles, so hopefully this helps/fixes the problem.

With second skins weekend sale, I might grab some LLP, unsure of how much I'll need for the doors as of right now...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Quick Update:
I followed sk's guide and finally tesa taped the door clips and the window controls in an attempt to shut down some rattling i have...
spoiler alert: it didn't fix the specific rattle I was aiming to stop, but it helped some others 

I also spent about 2 hours with maestro a while back and determined that my maestro is faulty.. haven't had a chance to swap it out since mine and my friend's schedule haven't matched up lately.



































Also... my sd-3 is on the chopping block- going for a sub that'll give me the bass I'm looking for.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

I have a mean rattle somewhere in my drivers side door that I need to locate.

Looks good!


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

A new month marks new poor financial decisions...
I ordered a 12" backstock brahma... Hopefully I'll be able to mock something for the enclosure up next week.

I also ordered replacement door clips from ebay. I believe I snagged the link from either truthhunter's or Chris12's thread but I'll repost here as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-Door-p...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

If anyone has a link for a small RCA bass knob it would greatly be appreciated. I've yet to find one to replace the one I had on the 3sixty.1, it was small and able to fit perfectly under the blank spots I had.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

6 Months later the Brahma is in.
I thought this stay at home would be good to work on the car, and snagged a refurb DSP-408 to go full active.After a weekend of mulling over it.. I'm not 100% wanting to spend all the time to go full active, especially when other components like sound deadening and such as lacking. For now I'll stick with this unless I find a really nice set of speakers for cheap. I like the references but they don't have enough oomph I think.


Edit: I don't have photos of the brahma. I ended up just buying a zenclosures box since it was damn closed to the sealed recommended airspace and I didn't have the energy/time to glass like I thought I would.


What I 100% for sure will be doing is the big 3 from wireandsupply, I just need to double check cable lengths and lug sizes... anyone happen to have that info offhand?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I took this picture just now, and yes it looks like a ****show but I was pulling the amp out to sell it with the SD-3. Although as I'm writing this the person has ghosted me... one of many. I left the rears disconnected for a bit due to insane rattle. I honestly do prefer the "club sound" with the rears in, so they're plugged in. Now I've got some time to figure out all the rattles...



http://imgur.com/a/JYPLBN3




There's some RTV there on the sub.. Ashamed to say I did smash a small hole thru the surround, and ended up using Ultra Black 5000(or whichever number) and it's been holding up so far nicely... still hurts me badly to think about it.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I made a few purchases today:
-0/1 to upgrade the battery/chassis ground and the run to the distroblock. Currently it's just 4awg and I don't think that'll hold up very well to the brahma and the fronts
-Backstraps to make a better amp rack, along with a rivnut insert tool - also something better for the main fuse at the battery
-Some Parts Express CLD just to mess around and toss on the front speaker plastic brackets
-Speaker grill reccomended by Adire(just the 12" bars type from PE)
-CCF/Speaker gasket to quell rattles


Just finishing up the loose ends/partial hackjobs I did. I have my eyes on a set of the open box Kappa 600s on sonic but that'll be out of the question right now. Also ended up selling my bynnies after some thought since I'm not entirely sure what I can do for the rattles at this point and I won't be having any passengers anytime soon. This plus a new NAS build should be fun projects for the next bit.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

quick update: got the 1/0 awg wiring, lugs, techflex, and CCF...

On another note, is it bad that I want to redo the CLD on the doors...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

First time playing with techflex - pretty slick stuff.



http://imgur.com/iPwHrgz




http://imgur.com/OwyQumf



prolly gonna be another week for me to do the battery ground and alternator -> battery run since there's finals next week and apparently I need a degree for this job... annoying 


I also need to probably get more wire to replace the 4awg for the distro, I ordered too little.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

While I wait for finals to end- I've been mentally toying with snagging a cheap DSP.3 and two small 4 channels to do a 3 way active and centre... yeah rip budget.

I think more realistically, I'm going to redo the "sealed" doors- replace the CLD with galvanized steel like truthhunter and many others have done, and go over that with CLD again... going to take measurements tomorrow, and mess with the parts express CLD stuff as well.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

First note:
As expected, the P/E CLD sucks _hugely_. Never again, even to meet the free shipping.

I haven't soldered in a few years, and it especially sucked because I didn't have anything to mount the wire and XT90 in place, but I ended up figuring it out and adding XT90s. I was fine with just the crimped slides on the drivers but they kept on sliding off so I figured might as well go for broke.

Added speaker gasket _everywhere_



http://imgur.com/nx2E1iw


And yes, I ended up redoing that negative wire and properly heatshrinking it.



http://imgur.com/VU9dLz6


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## farfromovin (Mar 30, 2011)

Did you do the power/ground wire yet? Just last week I crimped my first cables with a hammer crimping tool and freaking loved how the cables came out. 1/0 gauge EVERYWHERE. Super impressed with the quality of cable a novice like myself could make. I’ll never buy a factory replacement battery cable again.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Just the engine ground for now. I got set screw terminals for my 0/1. I think next week I'll start the battery ground and possibly the alternator -> battery, but I need to buy a fuse holder/fuse for that as well.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Also, I placed a bid on a DSP.3 on ebay and won that somehow so... I guess we're going full active.

Kinda regret installing that XT90 now since I have to rewire everything... ah well.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Galvanized steel and snips came in today- thinking of sealing up the doors tomorrow.
It's going to be a one-task a day thing- despite finally finishing my undergrad I'm in study groups for some certifications before I start working- eking out whatever perks of the edu email I have for now.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I learned today that trying to seal doors up after running CLD is a PITA and should never be done..
I guess I never got taught how to have common sense.

I got this far into the **** show before I gave up and angrily went inside


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

~~I'm in the debate of grabbing two 4 channel mini amps and keeping them under the seats, or rerunning all of my wiring and mounting everything to the back seat w/ the taramps... My main concern I guess is running so much damn wire to the front. Anyone reading this have any thoughts?~~

Just said screw it, gonna do it right. Moving everything to the back.


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Nothing wrong with either location for your amps. Just enjoy the process and look forward to the finished product.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

What happened with the Dayton DSP?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I didn't use it due to some other things going on at the time, and the noise issues I kept on hearing about kind of threw me off. I also knew I would want a Helix or similar high end DSP soon enough... As it stands, when I returned it, someone on the CarAV discord bought another restock unit(mine was also restock) and said he had noise issues... might have dodged a bullet, might not have.

"I thought this stay at home would be good to work on the car, and snagged a refurb DSP-408 to go full active.After a weekend of mulling over it.. I'm not 100% wanting to spend all the time to go full active, especially when other components like sound deadening and such as lacking. "

I was going thru some mental funk I guess, considering I got a DSP.3... still am..


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I got my battery ground done. I'm using high temp tesa tape for now but plan to get heatshrink whenever it makes it to my house. I had to shave off a little on one terminal so it would sit flush with the negative terminal.



http://imgur.com/nsjv1YR




http://imgur.com/lbrnPId


I do plan on using traditional crimp style ends for everything else- have those and a temco hammer crimper on the way, but I went lazy here. _kinda_ regretting it but whatever, lessons learned.


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## farfromovin (Mar 30, 2011)

The hammer crimped is awesome, I just made a bunch of cables with it for the first time. Just plan your lengths as you’ll need to do the crimping outside of the vehicle more than likely.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

yep, that's why I'm holding off on everything for now- that's not in... along with the rest of the wiring I ordered... or the fuses.. or the DSP since fedex is holding onto it.. oh well


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I finally did things today, mainly tearing out all the old wiring so nothing photo noteworthy.. Although, I'm starting to wonder how I am going to run speaker wire up to the front, as the krystal RCAs are.. fat and take up a lot of space on the left side of the car, and the 1/0 will take up the right side...

I have new lugs in the garage and will hopefully finally get the alternator positive wire run at the very least.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I have underestimated how large the bassik 1/0 fuse holders are, and am trying to scheme up mounting ideas or using some other fuse holder all together.

Originally I made this Z-Bracket to hold one of them:


http://imgur.com/MKqGCxy




http://imgur.com/lc2VqQ0



I think this might be too weak and a bad idea.. The other would go on the other side of the airbox... Looking at other options right now but struggling to think of something for two 1/0 runs- One for the alternator(big 3) and one for the amps.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hi all,
I am back with MUCH less Jank and something that actually looks professional(imo). I originally actually made a test bracket with some 26gauge steel, but realized it was too flimsy, so I got some 1/8" ABS and dremeled out a slightly modified shape. This is held underneath the plastic cover with some factory locations.

I will take a quick aside to remind anyone reading this to wear PPE when using any kind of power tool. I had a cutting wheel snap and shoot across the garage and hit(I think) one of the garage door rails. Def scary stuff.



http://imgur.com/l2UsBMd




http://imgur.com/7vWgMCM

And yes, I know the tape on that negative lug is fubard
There's another 1/0 fuse holder on the bottom as well.



http://imgur.com/Td6pEWC


hammer crimper is pretty bitching as well. Will hopefully have the upgraded alternator wire in Monday.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice install!


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Thank you - Someone pointed my attention to the lil bit of ABS sticking out by the battery bracket- will be sanding that off come Monday.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

"Like a glove"



http://imgur.com/evH15Cb



Really wish I could have thought of a better way to run this, but I had already lugged and heatshrinked the one side. Use zip ties and flush cuts. It's not hitting hoses anywhere, and won't as far as I can see given how stiff the wire is(regretting not just getting knu) and where It's zipties.

EDIT: on second thought I will probably finesse the cable a bit more tomorrow.



http://imgur.com/DALGyzs



I ended up making a large gash in my pinkie finger when tightening the alternator terminal bolt, which ended any work that might have done today with a stream of curses.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I just ordered a 250 amp alternator. I finished my install last Thursday. My car almost didn't start when I left work this evening.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah, hopefully I won't need an HO alt but I probably will soon lol. 100a is not cutting it. The factory wire is something like 6 awg so this should help a little I hope...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I hit a small snag, and ended up finally replacing the positive terminal with the bassik ones I bought long ago. The factory one was rusty, and I originally thought the bolt that holds it together had snapped - but I came back this morning to it and it opened fine... whatever.

I bought an OEM one just in case I couldn't use the bassik one, and here's a quick side by side.


http://imgur.com/KUGzKmH


I had to do a little bending of the stock stuff to get the tabs out of the way.


http://imgur.com/3SRyfBx


And where it sits right now:


http://imgur.com/odlIW5I



Ran out of heatshrink so I ordered more... amateur hour over here it seems. I'm taking my sweet time with this build, not doing too much work daily but atleast something is getting done- the big 3 is officially complete.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

As anyone might have guessed, set screw lugs were a poor idea... Redid the battery ground today.


http://imgur.com/KSXPlKC


Also...


http://imgur.com/fFznBsx


Anyone thinking what I'm thinking?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Alright so-
Got my HDPE in, and ran the 1/0 down to the back. Work is gonna be even slower since I got a steroid injection in my left knee this week, and my right is upcoming in a few days. 
Passenger side grommet as always. This photo doesn't show it, because I was too pissed to take a photo, but I used the factory extra spot and... made it work.


http://imgur.com/RXfnlrN


****ed my hand up doing this again. POS ****ing wire.


http://imgur.com/va1NAnf


"Like a glove"


http://imgur.com/awkTvmI


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Finally got around to the HDPE and got this portable husky router table. Cut up the amp rack stuff with a flute bit. Worked fairly well.


http://imgur.com/b4mWHQP


Now I'm stuck as to how I am going to arrange these- The helix will go somewhere else due to space concerns.


http://imgur.com/WOygsCx


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I have some new things planned... the PPi is getting replaced with something... bigger.. and I have some midranges on the way from partsexpress. I'm waiting for all of that before I come back to the amp rack. For now, I've just ran some speaker wire up for the drivers' side drivers...

Ran w/ some techflex that was a lil too big but oh well- I strongly prefer this over the non techflexed wires I ran last friday.


http://imgur.com/sEp0Usd


Did some heatshrink on one end, the other is on the amp end and that will need to be trimmed a bit anyways so not doing much for that end right now. This wasn't 3:1 like I for some reason thought but it works well enough..


http://imgur.com/zebMQJf


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Ran the speaker wire for both sides- didn't take a photo of the passenger side run but it's basically identical... Also got one of the new toys- JL XD 600/6V2. I'm waiting on the other distro from Knu before I get to wiring the amp rack up. I have a new piece of HDPE that I'll be using.




http://imgur.com/KFNmAdC


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

After a week of issues, I finally got something done:

New HDPE sheet cut for the amp rack-










New planned layout: I ordered the big boi fuse holder from knu by accident, so I'm just going to put the fuse holders underneath in close proximity.









First pass of the roundover.. Did 2-3 passes after per side to smooth it all out.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Mounted the amps- I used threaded inserts in the HDPE along with some CA glue to make sure the inserts don't come loose.


http://imgur.com/o4dQ9zv


Quickly did the wiring. Not too happy with both the parts express heatshrink it, as it was 2:1 and not the 3:1 I thought, and the ruined techflex on two of the cables, although that's my fault for the most part as I didn't take enough caution. Lessons learned for next time.


http://imgur.com/jvmEuRT


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Right so I've gotten... basically no good pictures, but I did a fair bit of work today:
-Wired power, ground, and remote for everything - amps and helix
The distros are under the rear bench in a divot where it's pinned in place by the sheet and held with some template tape while I make up something out of 1/8" HDPE I have laying around... or maybe it was 1/4". I ran out of techflex for the smaller wires, patience, and my knees started killing me so I didn't get much more done.

Ended up deciding the Helix would go here because I didn't have space behind the carpet on the left side like I thought... also.. no patience left:
Rough cut of some leftover ABS- I'll clean it up with the flush bit next week when I permanently mount it- this was just to get the wiring all done.


http://imgur.com/sh6O6N6



Two things:
1) The different krystal RCAs(v2 and v3) annoy me greatly but uh... Krystal RCAs are expensive.
2) Yeah I know my heatshrink isn't even but that was the last thing done today and I wanted another coffee.


http://imgur.com/1BPQuYB




Spoiler: The current Distro block mess






http://imgur.com/7hCdWI3


It's unfused at the front, but it's held in place well enough by the bench for now.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I ended up with a 200 amp alternator. The seller of the 250 amp alternator was playing games on Ebay and Walmart.com. Geez, I didn't take any pics of the installation and updated battery wiring. Nice work guy!


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hello,
I'm not dead- just started a new job and have been worn out. I basically only today got the speakers in the front mounted(tweeters hung on with blu-tak while I figure out aiming).

should hopefully have something running byu this thursday fingers crossed.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

My "temporary" tweeter mount - I'm a huge fan of the blutac as I can relatively easily adjust where the tweeters are aiming... Fingers crossed tomorrow morning I'll have something half-assed up.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I actually lived up to my word for once.
Yesterday I DID get stuff playing, abet only the right side. This was due to a mix of poor connections(because I rushed) and a mixed pair of RCAs. I sorted that all out today. I'm faced with the conundrum of having my driver's side MUCH lower in volume. Not sure what happened/is happening. Between the heat and morning tranings at work, I won't have much time the next two weeks to mess with this, but atleast it plays. Between going from passive 2-way to active 3-way, even without EQ, the midrange and highs sound so much clearer. I can't(but will have to) wait to get this EQd up.


(I swear I'm using a Helix )


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Lol!


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Haven't had much time lately due to early morning trainings- I'm having a wierd issue with the left side cutting out and still haven't traced it down. I replaced all the RCAs from the Helix to the amps with some 6 foot Stinger ones, and completely rewired the left side but it's still funky, and I'm suspecting a loose RCA at the headunit since it only cuts out over bumps... Today atleast, I got some pink noise playing and took some measurements. California is hot as balls so I probably won't do any EQ until Monday Morning when it's somewhat tolerable out.

My tweeters are also hissing(they're the only ones to do so) so I have some 1" Daytons sitting in a box... Those should get installed some day...

Left Side










Right Side:


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I clearly still don't really know what the hell I'm doing 100%- I've watched SkiZeR's auto EQ video and skimmed through Andy's Tuning guide and the videos by Kyle Ragsdale on youtube, but todays.. rushed attempt still yielded great results(I would like to think anyways). I'm having the issue with a sharp drop at 20Khz, and I'm not sure of any fix for that yet, and you can see the Helix freaking the hell out about that in the screenshots below.

NOTE: Imgur was being pissy with me uploading things, so I attached them directly to the post

Right side - No EQ(green) and EQd(orange)
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version. 
Name: roomeqwizard_o4F27eDROR.jpg Views: 0 Size: 110.7 KB ID: 13659"]https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13659&d=1599513264&thumb=1[/IMG]

Left Side- No EQ(blue) and EQd(orange)
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version. 
Name: roomeqwizard_k7KIXUfstt.jpg Views: 0 Size: 130.0 KB ID: 13660"]https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13660&d=1599513403&thumb=1[/IMG]


Both Sides EQd- Left(orange) and right(green)
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version. 
Name: sL93HZiVvt.jpg Views: 0 Size: 131.3 KB ID: 13661"]https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13661&d=1599513463&thumb=1[/IMG]



I then took a measurement with all channels playing(and Sub EQd) and noticed the mother of all rise... I did a 3dB drop in the Helix software after that but... it sounded fun








[IMG alt="Click image for larger version. 
Name: IMG_20200907_131831.jpg Views: 0 Size: 107.9 KB ID: 13662"]https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13662&d=1599513628&thumb=1[/IMG]


Here's a post mortem in the Helix(sorry no sub channel in this pic)
[IMG alt="Click image for larger version. 
Name: IMG_20200907_124739.jpg Views: 0 Size: 229.3 KB ID: 13663"]https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13663&d=1599509048&thumb=1[/IMG]


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

OK so that last post got fubard, I'll try to fix it after I finish writing this one. I spent more time with the auto-EQ and played around with various movements of the mic- I've seen SkiZeRs version of making smaller circles around an ear for a few moments before swapping to the other, as well as waving it around both ears in a semi-circle. I ended up doing the process three times today, and made a few core changes:

-Fixed the right side midrange crossover, which was low-passed rather than band-passed
-Dropped the crossover between midrange and tweeter from 3500Hz to 3000Hz
-Changed the midbass and sub crossover from 100Hz to 80Hz and 60Hz, respectively, after reading some of Andy Wehmeyer's(wow I spelled it right for once) posts.
-Fixed the bodged time alignment from the Helix Auto-TA. I only just noticed that it had only done two out of the six up-front drivers and ignored the subwoofer.

This is my new left(orangey-bronze) versus right(blue) at 1/12 scaling.









Ah yes, the notorious driver side null....


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I also may or may not have some new drivers coming in soon...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I've gone mostly silent since there's been no actual work aside from some tuning. Some more hardware work will commence when I get new drivers in next week. I am toying/planning to print speaker adapters for these since the metra ones won't cut it.

Here's something that looks A LOT nicer.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice!


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Just got the new drivers- given the difficulty I'm finding to have the brackets printed at a decent price, this might take longer than I thought... here's a hint of which set I bought...


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I can't keep it a secret lol:









I bought the three way kappa perfect 900 set- a mix of a set a friend didn't use, and the midranges from crutch- they were scratch and dent but I recieved new, still-sealed, untouched drivers... won't catch me complaining. I already started making sail panels, those will hopefully be done tomorrow and I'll have half decent pics, they look messy right now.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Soooooooooooo I have mixed news.

I started working on the sails yesterday- I tried using the method in this video(



) since I thought it would be extremely easy. Unfortunately, I goofed on one pod and it ended up aiming at god knows where and I have to redo that one at some point, very soon.

I cut out some of the sail panel(didn't get a good photo of that) to try and slide the stock mounting pods in them atleast a little bit- it helped, but these tweeters are 1" alone.. I built up the putty(in this case, JB Plasti-Weld stick) and attempted to get it done.











^ look ugly as ****, and they're still unfinished.


I did some minor sanding just to get them to tuck in right:
.










Popped them in the car... The passenger side came out really nice aim-wise, and was exactly where I wanted it to be:










The driver's side one needed viagra and didn't really make it. I have no damn clue where/what happened other than it must have gotten moved around when I was shaping the putty and I didn't notice.










I also hooked up the 300ms just to see how they'd fit. Yes I know there's no screws I just wanted to see if they would hit anything underneath it, these things have a massive arse.













Unfortunately for me, I'll have to modify the dash covers heavily, since the cutout/holes in the grille are for the stock tweeter and not this massive thing width wise , and the stock wave-guide hits the 300m... that'll be fun. I have to finish/redo the pods, I have SEM paint, but need to add some body filler to smooth it out, as the JB Weld stuff doesn't seem to be the best to get a smooth finish on...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So mixed feelings, I did get a basic tune with the helix-auto-eq and it sounds better than the previous fatial/infinity reference setup, much smoother, less harsh on my ears, and the midrange and tweeter blend well together.. I didn't take measurements since I had to get back to work, but I probably won't for a bit until I fix the pods up right. I'm also stuck on what exactly to do for the dash corner panels..

EDIT; Think I'll be going this route for the dash corners...


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Tore the left sail panel apart - Restarted that, no photos of that though because my phone decided to not save any. Just imagine using grey playdoh to hold it in place- that's essentially what the epoxy putty was like. I used gorilla's brand this time and I highly recommend that over JB Weld for two reasons:
1) It doesn't stink nearly as much as the JB Weld stuff
2) It's easier to see when you have completely melded both parts of the putty together. The JB Weld is grey and a greyish-blue so it's kind of hard to tell in poor lighting.











I started working on the other tweeter pod, adding some evercoat rage and sanding it down... Much better, but still some ways to go.










I'll just be coating the entire thing in primer and SEM since I didn't give two damns about taping the area off.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Now 20% less ugly-- still a lot of work to do, I was stubborn and didn't buy finishing putty/easy sand today, hopefully that will be fixed tomorrow. Did a light coat of primer to more easily see where I need to focus on. The left one is in slightly worse condition right now, but much better than yesterday. I had to stop because I fubard my arm from sanding...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Right so I got them "finished" and not looking like crap.










Middle of painting:































They need to be cut up a little more, as, if you take a closer look, they get pushed a bit out of place, so I need to prolly shave off a fifth of an inch on the side that hits the a-pillar, resand, and repaint. Def needs more work. The SEM paint worked pretty well, and the colour was a little darker than the stock plastic, but still damn good, and looks mostly factory. I'm currently cutting up the dash corner panels right now and those should be done soon. Also the 3D printed test adapter for the midwoofers comes in sometime today so that should also be fun...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

My execution leaves a lot desired, as I rushed finishing these... hopefully I'll have time to fix it up when I get back around to fix these up.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I lied, I finished one dash panel today and am extremely pleased with the results:

Stock Panel: You can see it's basically built only to house the stock... 1.5" or whatever tweeter/midrange:





















I bought some of these plastic hub centric rings, and right after they had shipped realize that I didn't actually need them...








(4) Plastic Hub Centric Rings - 100.3mm - 110mm (100-110) | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for (4) Plastic Hub Centric Rings - 100.3mm - 110mm (100-110) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





So I used them anyways.

Superglued this on and cut a hole out using a dremel and sanding wheel - Note: the stock panel has a dip, so there's a gap here between the ring and plastic panel, I'll bondo or something that closed tomorrow.



















All done:










And in the car:












Unlike the sail panel, I am VERY pleased with these- I have a 4 pack of the rings and plan to put one on the underside as well to form a sort of waveguide...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Also, the test speaker bracket came today and appear to be spot on with the metra bracket mounting wise and the hole for the kappas. If this fits well I'll upload a .stl/.stp/.whatever to thingiverse or something.

UPDATE: The hole for the midbass is a couple of MM short... going to have to make adjustments on that part


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

For the left side Bracket, I did something a little different- I used glazing putty to seal up and gaps. I did this to the other side as well, but that was pretty hard to get a decent photo of. Also somehow didn't grab a photo of that all sanded up...









I painted this over with the SEM paint so the mess couldn't be seen from above:











Quick photo of what it looks like... My car is a mess, haven't had time to do much since Tuesday.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I finished designing the bracket after doing a test fit today. The holes on this SHOULD line up... if not uh... we'll figure it out live. Added a hole for the tweeter wire, and printed two of these in black ABS at 30% infill. I think I could have gotten by with 20%, as the PLA one I got was very sturdy. I'll toss up the .stls when I have some time on my hands.

Final version:


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hello,
I am not dead.. yet.
So, I actually for about the last 3 weeks had no audio as I ripped out all my speaker wire- somewhere along the way it got cinched somewhere and two drivers stopped working.. The easier solution was to make new runs and be more careful about how things were wired. I still have 0 idea where the old wire broke but... whatever. The USB cable connecting to the helix also got cinched, and caused me to think I fried the Helix but a different cable worked (after about 2 days of pure panick).

Anyways, enough of the whining.

I got the amp and drivers rewired(and yes everything works). I also FINALLY installed the kappa 900 midbasses.








Now you may be thinking... that covers a mounting point for the door and prevents it from being clipped on... and there's a gap on the sides of the driver... and you would be 100% right. I had to butcher that bracket to get the door back on, and put butyl rope as a temporary measure to cover the sides of the bracket... back to the drawing board. Probably gonna reprint in a few weeks after taking better measurements.

I also sanded the door down with an orbital to make sure the driver doesn't hit the door card, but this probably needs to be sanded down more... not like I'm driving much right now.





















I think the most important thing to note is that, other than my utterly shagged doors which need love and not the abusive relationship I have with them, is that I've had multiple knukonceptz kolossus failures across the car, specifically anywhere on plastic...


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Oooey gooey no good.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Very interesting to see those issues with KNU. That’s the first I’ve heard of that. If I were you I’d contact KNU regarding this, maybe it was a bad batch and they’ll send replacements..

[email protected]


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah, I was planning on doing it but I've basically been confined to the bed today after all of yesterday's shenanigans and haven't gotten up until now.

Just emailed the general customer service email, figure if I don't get a resposne back I'll step it up to that email... Not really expecting much since it's been more than a year but yeah.. never know


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Response from knu:
`
It's most likely that something in the chemical composition of the plastic is attacking the butyl. Sometimes we see this when the surface was prepped with a de-greaser like simple green.
`


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Turb0Yoda said:


> Response from knu:
> `
> It's most likely that something in the chemical composition of the plastic is attacking the butyl. Sometimes we see this when the surface was prepped with a de-greaser like simple green.
> `


Interesting. Did you use a de-greaser?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Chris12 said:


> Interesting. Did you use a de-greaser?


Just Isopropyl... Pretty odd/disappointing for the CLD to literally slide off within a year...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I am not dead, merely out of energy-
-Found some speaker brackets from grabcad that need some tweaking, will link my remix once I get it tuned in
-Bought a 3D printer to do shhhhhtuff
-Heard about the Helix conductor and plan on buying that.

-Bought Resonix(SkiZeR took away my wank breaks with his build logs now he's taking my money).
--Booked half the first week of March off to take out knu and put in resonix- while most of the knu is fine.. I do not want to take chances.

I printed a little switch cover with a USB port for the Helix, and it "fits", although it is in PLA which isn't the best idea, and this print got shagged while printing- so I'm planning a reprint this weekend while attempting to put a helix logo on it. I have a .04mm nozzle that just didn't cut it for that.









Toyota Camry Switch cover with USB cutout by Turb0Y0da


Hello, I remixed this from a blank cover from another site, and cut a hole in it to match this USB port: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LRSZDB I recommend hot glueing it in after it's in there




www.thingiverse.com














It's also a slightly loosey-goosey fit so that will have to be adjusted in a bit once I fix/upgrade my printer to do ABS and a smaller nozzle.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Wrecked my 3D printer so there will probably be few updates on that front- however, some good stuff came in…











Have been playing around with setting gains and tuning quite a bit - I know I have to nut up and do a proper tuning session but with the ebbs and flows of work it's hard to judge when I'll have time to do any of this..






Also just came across this...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Guess it's time to stop treating this like a schoolboy install as I imagine Peter from pssound would call it.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Writing out the laundry list of items that need to be done - My headunit has been the source of alternator whine for the longest time (popped RCA fuse most likely) and I will try to ground all the RCA ports this coming week before I look into a new headunit. The never ending project just got longer.


-fix 3D Printer (this is relevant I swear. Just ordered the replacement parts to print abs)
-Remove all old hardware(Amps, DSP, distro blocks)
-Remove all dampening material(failed knu)
-Install new dampening material(resonix)
-Maybe grab roxul or fiberglass ceiling tiles alongside the CLD
-Seal doors off with Stainless Steel sheet metal and butyl rope
-Reroute 1/0 awg wiring
-Mount new hardware
-Rewire amp board
-Recreate sail panels (replacement tweeter hardware ordered from harman)
-Print midrange baffle
-Print center baffle
-Print Door Speaker Adapter
-Create new speaker baffles
-Create mount for conductor


Maybe not in the order of importance, and probably missing some things...


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## lithium (Oct 29, 2008)

Turb0Yoda said:


> Wrecked my 3D printer so there will probably be few updates on that front- however, some good stuff came in…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did my doors up like this but I used a mineral wool insulation material. Nick has a preorder for blackhole tiles if you rather not DIY it.

My diy stuff has been in for a year so far and seems to be holding up. But, if anything leaks I'll have plastic bags full of soggy insulation... not fun if that happens and makes a mess.
I drove around for about a month before closing my doors up just to keep a eye on it. 







Blackhole Tile – ResoNix Sound Solutions







resonixsoundsolutions.com


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah - I have a dealer that supplies BH tiles about 10 minutes from my house but I'm up for DIY'ing it. Looking at that roxul stuff as truthhunter/chris have used (reading thru their thread right now and ordering some bits from home depot). Managed to lose my klein crimping tool much to my dismay so I need one of those again...


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## lithium (Oct 29, 2008)

I think used this stuff, 3" is too thick in some parts of my door so I had to cut it down. Using a thinner material and layering might have been easier. 









Owens Corning 15 in. x 47 in. Thermafiber Fire and Sound Guard Unfaced Mineral Wool Insulation Batt SG-25-P3--15--47--221 - The Home Depot


Thermafiber Fire and Sound Guard mineral wool insulation is designed to provide exceptional acoustic control and fire protection in interior walls as well as floor and ceilings in residential and light



www.homedepot.com







http://imgur.com/Iny9IP5


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah that stuff is indeed available locally. I may spring for blackhole tiles just yet, but maybe not 72 tiles…


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Turb0Yoda said:


> My headunit has been the source of alternator whine for the longest time (popped RCA fuse most likely) and I will try to ground all the RCA ports this coming week before I look into a new headunit.


I wonder if I have the same problem. Where do you have your amp ground? Mine is at the rear seat belt bolt. The problem is I can't put the wire directly on the chassis. It's between the bracket and the bolt instead of between the bracket and the chassis. The bracket is too big for 0 gauge wire.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

The spot that I used does not appear to be there in your car. I''ve stolen this photo from truthhunter's build because... it's where I grounded all my amps and DSP.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Geez, you have a TON of grounding options! My 2001 F150 had threaded studs too. I ended up grinding them off for enclosure clearance.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I have a local dealer that has all the nice things... I stopped by and made an impulse purchase


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## lithium (Oct 29, 2008)

Nice, interested in how far 40 tiles will go. I have a coupe so I feel like i'll need 30-40 per door.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Supposedly 20 ish per door is good enough /shrug


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

After about two weeks of debate and remembering Crutchfield has a payment program(makes it so much easier to justify this) I ended up grabbing the pioneer DMH-WT7600NEX. After being majorly annoyed by the harness and stripping a screw… she’s in- just need to drop the screen down a tad. Seems like another rebirth of the system considering I’m also swapping the DSP/Amp now as well..


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice!


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I need to book PTO for all of this... I also have some machined speaker brackets from DeLander. While there was a small fault with the tabs being too long- it makes 0 difference for mounting them which is nice. I made my own STL file but it's about as garbage as the last one I made since I am still fairly weak with autodesk fusion.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Turb0Yoda said:


> After about two weeks of debate and remembering Crutchfield has a payment program(makes it so much easier to justify this) I ended up grabbing the pioneer DMH-WT7600NEX. After being majorly annoyed by the harness and stripping a screw… she’s in- just need to drop the screen down a tad. Seems like another rebirth of the system considering I’m also swapping the DSP/Amp now as well..
> 
> View attachment 297355


Thanks for posting this. That 9" screen fits nicely. If I were upgrading today I'd probably go just a bit bigger and get one of the 10.1" Kenwood's. Unfortunately I've got better places to spend $1K+ right now


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Yeah between the Kenwood's UI on the bigger screens and the massive bezel I was pretty turned off...
And yeah.. insanely pricey for what it is..


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Whew...

So I have been getting some work done.. just very little since work has been batshit crazy as of late. I pulled my old HDPE sheet, added in some threaded inserts for the v eight mk2 and the taramps, and sprayed it with bedliner..partially to cover up my ****ups with one of the threaded inserts that I was way off and JB Welded back shut, partially because I've no idea where it came from so I'm trying to use it up. It basically looks like... someone sprayed a sheet of plastic with bedliner so I haven't taken photos of that.


I started the process of tearing out my old knuknoise kolossus, freezing the CLD with some canned air held upside down and peeling it off. It sucked to do, I'm not done, and that method, while it works, isn't that cost effective.. also you look like a little bit of an addict carrying out the amount of canned air you'd need so.. I don't recommend this. There is A LONG way to go before this is ready for resonix but atleast it's started.









I had some speaker brackets come in from @DeLander , and after some quick modification I added threaded inserts to that and did some test fitting today.


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Look good. Sorry about the hole alignment spacing😕🤔


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

No worries - wasn't too hard to fix.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Both doors are MUCH cleaner now... about 90-95% done with the doors... wish I could say the same for the cards. Going to clean up the last bits and start re-deadening tomorrow...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Wanting to get things at least partially buttoned up since I have about 500 miles of driving to do in the next few days. After the mess of goo gone for the past... what week? I wiped everything down with isopropyl about three times and with clean dry rags twice before applying resonix. I do plan to go back in here and add some butyl rope again to the crash bar but that'll be later..

Near 100% coverage with resonix on the outer door skin - used up 5 tiles (yes I filled the bottom bits in)










Used 20 black hole tiles:










I'm now using this little grommet for the tweeter wire- going to order some and try to make a proper boot out of it but this will be a-ok for now:


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I repeated the same process on the passenger's side.. given the simplicity and nature of that bit I have not bothered with photos. Something I noted is that there is a massive difference by using the black hole tiles. If not for my wallet I surely would have gotten the pack of 80 and done about as full coverage as possible. I won't be doing the same to the rear doors, seeing as there's no drivers in the doors. I am contemplating doing the roxul or fibreboard ceiling tile treatment for the rear doors to make them feel the same when opening/closing. I think at that point it's just excess but why the hell not at this point unless that manages to add up to the same cost as more black hole tiles...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hullo,

I ended up deciding that simply buying new door cards was the best option- so I paused on deadening the doors until the new ones come in(sometime this week I believe). I was able to get the conductor mount made- ended up placing it between the seat heater switches in the center console. It doesn't look entirely out of place but it's the best solution I could think of. Note it's not nearly as pretty as I wish because I was way too heavy handed with spray primer/filler where I shouldn't have been- and I learned halfway my prep work wasn't as good as I thought.

The thought process was to epoxy the middle two switches in the middle together and run a holesaw through it... You guys might be able to guess which portion I manged to screw up .


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Interested to see how that Conductor works out for you.

I’m going to see how it goes for me with no extra controller for my DSP.3 - so I’d just hook up my laptop if any changes are necessary. I never used the controller for my miniDSP so I’m pretty confident I’ll be alright.

Nice call on the new door cards. I can’t believe KnuKonceptz didn’t take care of you a little better with this mishap. Seems like word of your troubles spread pretty quick (on this board at least) and I could see it really having an impact on their cld business.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I want the ability to swap between multiple tunes after I realized how crap a 1-seat sounds from the other seat haha- I had the URC.3 but then this bad boy came out and... _I had to have it_.

I didn't really push Knu for anything... nor did they give me more info.. Past it at this point- I saw some other failures on the deadening FB page so I know I'm not alone with the issue-


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Welp x-nay on the new door cards- wrecker crushed the car and missed me.paying for the cards somehow- got my money back but I'm back on the hunt for door cards in interior trim code LA10. I've found a few but they're out of state and no shipping.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

I just started catching up on your build here. What happened to the existing door cards?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Tried to remove the failed knukonceptz but the door cards are now decently discolored along with me probably being too hard with themremoving the old CLD 🙃. I could probably get them back to totally usable with another 5 hours of cleaning vigorously with IPA but between work and my joint issues I can't keep it up anymore


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

I went back to read more into the issue. Sorry to hear that product left you with such a mess.
Not sure if you already tried this but mineral spirits worked the best for me to remove butyl based adhesive / cld residue.

On another note... How are you liking that Pioneer? I read that your having alt whine issue... Did that occur right from install or did it develop over time?
I'm waiting for Metra to release the flush mount dash kit for the 6600 modular screen version.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Mineral spirits are apparently unavailable in my county- so I haven't tried it.. Could order it but I haven't.. gotten around to it/ thought I could do better with goo gone and isopropyl. That may be my move at this point seeing as the door cards in my trim pattern are unavailable within a 200 mile radius at minimum according to car-part...

I have been happy with the Pioneer _after_ a firmware update. Although it does have some bugs like the ringing sound with apple carplay sounding like a cheesegrater. I have been looking for dmx1057xr to replace this one- Local Best Buy has a DMX1037S in stock but at this point.. might as well go for gold.. I had alternator whine with the previous kenwood headunit, not with this one. Narrowed it down to the headunit itself but haven't had time to pop it open and see what's cooked.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

I’d go with the DMX1057xr over the DMX1037s too.

The digital output of the stinger HU’s is appealing, but I don’t care for the look of them too much.

Ive been very happy with my Kenwood ddx9905s but the 6.75” screen is a bit small. If I ever upgrade, a bigger screen would be priority number one, with digital output coming in a close second.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Agreed- if the stinger wasn't so ugly I think I'd ignore the lack of maestro...

Car-toys has a 1057XR in stock but crutch has treated me extremely well with my first faulty pioneer so...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Shoutout to @captainobvious for having a "spare" DMX1057XR handy! It looks absolutely ridiculous in the car but yknow, atleast I know I won't have issues with it  I also swear it's perfectly level I'm just **** with taking photos.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Looks good bro! Connect a huge usb drive to it and see how fast it recognizes and scrolls. It’s really really good


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Something that has been irking me for a long time is the job I did for the sails... Not the best but I guess OK for a first attempt?










So after seeing these from LBAudio and some similar stuff from other people(I think CAF was another where I saw this same style) - I said screw it and bought new sails.










Taped up and ready for play... or something:










Held in place with plastic putty and fiber filler:










Added more fiber filler... yes this looks ugly but I promise it gets better


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I'm skipping about 50 steps in these photos but yknow... It was ugly until about the end.










After about 10 pounds of spot putty I got to this state- I wasn't 100% happy with the shape or how well the bondo spot putty was- so I switched over to the upol stuff... way better.










So I altered the shape to better fit the door panel(I lied upol came after this photo):









OK This is starting to shape up well..









And after.. oh god I don't remember how much sanding and bog and putty later...



















Have not been able to find the exact door cards yet.. LKQ had 1-2 matching cars that came in but the day after both times they were already stripped


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

damnit just realized it doesn't line up as well as I thought.. I am going to pretend I never saw that.. Also on the fence between SEM texture coat, but 25$ seems like a price too steep for me if it's just the sails.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I also made some minor adjustments to how the midbasses are mounted- got a knockoff astro and used 1/4-20 rivnuts, and also used XT60s on the cables going into the door for the midbass and tweeter:









Also ended up tinning the speaker leads going into the midbass to prevent some stray wires I had before- You can tell which lead I forgot to use flux paste on...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I think your sail pods came out good! 

I used towing harnesses for my doors for easy disconnecting.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Those sails look great! I know how much work you put in to get them that way as I fumbled through the same process myself.

I used SEM Black Landau in dusting coats and topped that with low luster clear. I ended up matching the sail panel color and texture pretty well.
Post number 12 here

Much like yourself, Ive gone through many evolutions of project. I’ve done almost every aspect of this build at least twice


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

pretty much the same here :| I'm still on the fence for SEM since it's just so bloody expensive... If it were sub-20 I'd do it. I used ultra trim black from SEM and it seems like I should have gone with the Black Landau for a more OEM finish...


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Looks good either way


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Welp, Went to a local paint shop and found the texture coat and landau black for reasonable prices, cheaper than I could get elsewhere...

It was worth it(ignore the dirty door cards, I've been lazy with cleaning lately):


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Rushed the drivers side a little since I was sick and tired of looking at my old one. Mostly stuck due to lack of energy to seal up the doors, nor have I been able to find the right door cards anywhere. Heavily tempted to just order large sheets of dynamat and knock it out.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Those turned out killer!

I don’t know if SEM products are actually worth 3x the price of other products, but they almost guarantee a nice finish


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Been a hot minute. Rather than cut out steel to seal the doors.. because apparantly that's too hard- I decided to buy the stock foam plugs and glass those over. While ugly- it still fit fine and sealed well. this was my first attempt messing with fiberglass, so I just went with the bondo stuff from Home Depot. I'm happy with the results- although I need to clean it up and probably apply some CCF on the front as well.











I also finally applied resonix to the inner door skin and door card. Next will be thinsulate and new door pins.


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

NICE speaker mounts you have there😉


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

DeLander said:


> NICE speaker mounts you have there😉


I wonder who made them


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Deadened the passenger door frame while I scraped some of the old Knu off... god this sucks. I will say- just feeling the difference between the passenger door card that's been all resonix'd up versus the knu one, there's a 30% at least reduction in resonance/vibration with the Resonix. Nick made a bitching product.











Watch me not do anything else for another month and lament about not having finished this project...


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

So I was able to seal off both doors and modify the NVX rubber baffles(alternative to CCF fast rings). Somehow I don't have a photo of the bottom hole covered up but I do have one of the NVX baffles... beats me.









I also hit both of the door cards with a _healthy_ amount of resonix squares- not the best application of squares around the speaker area itself but I'm not too concerned- I've apparantly used ~12 squares per door in total.


















Holding off on decoupling for a bit since I need to gather info on if thinsulate will serve a dual purpose as CCF and an absorber.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I was able to quite literally a few hours ago slather the roof in CLD- only above the rear passenger area due to the sunroof- Some quick photos with the knock test.

Before:












http://imgur.com/xp44vV4

 (Can't embed video with audio here apparently)

After:











http://imgur.com/sRzOeHE


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Just passed the three year anniversary of this show and I'm still not done.. lol Lot closer to the final parts of this car seeing as at the end of this year I plan to buy something new and hand this down to my brother... sans DSP- he can keep the passives.

Finished the deadening to the roof- I've decided to not thinsulate the roof due to the sunroof... also... I'm tired.


















I also took the time to decouple the controls/sunglasses holder at the top- seeing as it was already out and I have 5 rolls of tesa tape to burn through.


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I'm pretty happy with this next piece, as it only took me 3-4 months to actually make this properly - midrange mount for the 300ms. I really wanted to see the carbon fibre cone, so this journey began.

Opened up Fusion 360 and designed some mounting rings:


















Fits like a glove- a hair off in some places but it's acceptable:


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Next came fabricobbling the actual mount- this actually took me a while to figure out- the end secret was to glass the dash panel while it was in the car(Issues with warping and adhesion)..

Initial test fit:










Area masked off - This is the drivers side because for some reason I don't know where my passenger side photo is.









Final Result - you can see the passenger mount peeking into this image, from here on out in this post it'll be focused on the passenger mount since I need more mounting rings that are stuck in the mail.









Skipped a few photos- but I hotglued the ring in place, and added body filler and shape







d:











Finished off with SEM Texture Coat and Landau Black:










In the car. Not the best fit, but good enough- any gaps will have CCF or speaker gasketing tape where applicable if I can't get it to mesh in there better.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice!


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Got some more work done. Both panels have been fully fabricobbled, but only one is installed. I had the driver's side delaminate(again) despite using fibreglass... so I grabbed JBWeld _and went to town_. It seems to have worked, and it's on the shelf drying and waiting for another coat of paint and possibly sanding.

I had both in, and there was a slight issue with them not sitting flush. Yes I know the dash is dirty I wanted to get these in before I detail the entire car:











You can see my issue here:










So like any sane person, I took a dremel to the dashboard and went at it. This is what I sawed off on both sides:











And now sit perfectly flush!:






















I'm not... 100% happy with these, in terms of shape and fitment. However I am definitely finding little time to work on this now, so they shall stay as is for the forseeable future.

Up Next... MLV and thinsulate in the doors


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

---


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Finally got around to some things:
- Replaced the NVX silicone rings with SoundSkins Rings. Also added the eggcrate foam to the exposed crashbar(Not pictured).









-Added MLV and thinsulate to the front doors. I suspect my rushed poor application of both caused these to not help as much as I thought it would. Midbass improved but not a massive improvement on road noise.Only the front doors for now.
I used automotive velcro from Home depot for the MLV and then loctite contact adhesive for the thinsulate. I originally did one massive sheet of each but I quickly realized that was a horrible idea and resorted to piecemeal. Also you guys only get to see the better looking(although not the final result apparently as I now realize) application of the stuff. Next time I will just use the STEG/Ballistic SSQLT stuff. Supposed to be the same but scrim on both sides and easier to work with.


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## ILX Cheeta (Feb 23, 2020)

Fantastic build!
What size driver is in the front door?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

6x9s


ILX Cheeta said:


> Fantastic build!
> What size driver is in the front door?


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

Hiya,

Back here to necro this thread- I haven't done much in terms of physical changes(hopefully this week between jobs gives me time to finish MLV/Thinsulate...), but I did have a bit of time to play with the DSP-TOOL 5.0 and TuneEQ, the new iteration of automagic tuning from Audiotec-Fischer, paired with Auto-TA. I have learned two things:
1) I really want a p six ultimate now for my midbass drivers
2) This is pretty bloody good.


To start off with- Auto-TA, really did center my image in more-so than plain measuring. I don't know how. TuneEQ was the main star of the show. I will say, I'm not as happy with the tune that I'm posting pictures of, I fudged the subwoofer channels real badly and it doesn't have output now, but the rest of the drivers, superb. I know it still pales in comparison to doing stuff properly with REW passes, but I still don't have the time, or strength in the cali heat, to carry that out(and I don't expect my excuses to change here hah).

1/12th smoothing, measurements taken with mic going in a semi-circle from ear to ear.

Left Side, blue is TuneEQ:









Right Side: Orange is TuneEQ:











I have individual drivers as well, I've uploaded the .mdat here for anyone to poke around in, but I think my favorite just based on graphs alone, before listening, was the right tweeter:


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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

I did want to add that I ended up getting a 240 amp alternator from autotech (they're local and got one to me the next day) after my stock alt went out. Haven't posted about it due to a number of _other_ issues with both this car and mom's(crash)- but I finally got it running like OEM. For whatever reason- this car wants a pulley w/ clutch on the alt, otherwise the belt drive turns into a wreck. Autotech was pretty confused but they did help me out by tossing a stock pulley on. That's back to normal and I get 14.4v-14.6v now. 

I am hoping to redo the entire amp rack soon but I'm back to having breathing/energy issues after a bout with the plague so that, like everything else, is on indefinite hold.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Cool!


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