# 2010 Tacoma Audio Build



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I've always wanted to have a higher end stereo in my car or in this case my 2010 double cab Tacoma. SQ within a reasonable budget was one of the goals in my build. However, knowing that all double din receivers are not regarded as SQ headunits, I had to sacrifice somewhere. I just can't get away from watching videos in my truck while waiting for my girlfriend or daughter to finish whatever they are doing. HAHA. I have gathered almost all of the pieces for my build and have been slowly installing them. I'll be updating this page and including more pictures as I start to build things and install them over time.

The setup I am planning to install is the following:
•	Alpine iXA-W407
•	Alpine PXA-H700:
•	JL Audio Slash 300/4 V2
•	JL Audio Slash 300/2 V2
•	JL Audio Slash 250/1 V1
•	Vifa XT25 dual ring radiator tweeters
•	Peerless HDS Exclusive 4" mids
•	Peerless SLS8 8" Midbass
•	Dayton Audio HO10 10" Subwoofer
•	Raammat and Ensolite everywhere

Currently installed (interim while I build my kicks and apillars):
•	Alpine iXA-W407
•	Alpine PXA-H700
•	JL Audio Slash 300/4 V2 for the Helix Mids and Tweets 
•	JL Audio Slash 250/1 V1 for the Sub
•	Helix 6.5" Components in the doors
•	Dayton Audio HO10 10" Subwoofer in a ported box.

The helix components were from my other 08 tacoma extra cab that was returned to stock and sold to get my 2010.

This is my Headunit installed using the Metra kit from Crutchfield. Everything went in smoothly without any rattles. The OEM metal brackets were used instead of those flimsy plastic brackets supplied with the kit. 

The first thing I built was the sub box/amp rack. A ported configuration was used for the Dayton Sub. The enclosure volume is 0.67 cu. ft. with two 2” ports facing the drivers side of the cabin. Here are some pics of the box:


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I received my speaker rings and adapters from Mr. Marv and am ready to start constructing my front stage. Mr. Marv has been very helpful and his work is utterly flawless! Everything fits perfectly and is top notch. The adapters for the front doors were made of birch to hold the 8" Peerless SLS8 Midbass drivers. Due to the depth of these monsters I need to space them out approximately 1-1/4" from the door to clear the window. The additional rings you see are additional spaces just incase I need a little more room. The medium size rings you see are for my peerless HDS exclusive 4” mids which will be glassed into my kick panels. Hopefully i’ll start glassing everything in starting next week after I buy all the resin, fillers, fiberglass, etc. For now I’ll just start aiming and testing the angles and locations.

The Alpine PXA-H700 was installed under the drivers seat and the JL Audio Slash 300/4 was installed under the passenger seat. I forgot to take pictures of the sound deadening process and the installation of the amp and processor. When I go back in there I’ll open it back up to take more pics….Hopefully I’ll remember.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I test fit the 8” adapters for the Peerless SLS8’s, however my measurements were wrong and was about an 1/8” too shallow. It’s a good thing that I have my Dayton RS225-4 8”ers! These fit perfectly without hitting the glass. Although, some modifications to the door panel were necessary to make em fit. First off, I had to trim away all the excess grill support material on the inner part of the door panel. Then I had to heat up the upper portion of the grill area to make the plastic soft enough to mold an indentation to clear the frame of the Dayton 8”.


----------



## jhmeg2 (Nov 6, 2009)

I really like that sub box/amp rack. Clean install. very nice.


----------



## mr.metoo (Feb 20, 2010)

Really nice and clean install


----------



## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Clean install!


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Thanks guys, I just hope my kicks and apillars turn out nice...I'll be updating soon after I take some more pics of the process.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

So this past weekend I was able to work on the drivers side kick panel a little bit. All I could do was cut the drivers side panel, position the speaker, pull some stretchy cloth over the ring and panel, apply resin and one layer of fiberglass mat and start to apply/sand the evercoat rage extreme filler.

Stretching the fabric over the panel and using CA glue to hold it down was a pain in the ass... I found that really difficult. What I did was stretch the cloth over and used those cloth pins to hold it down while I applied the CA glue.

The resin was applied and one coat of fiberglass was laid over it to give some strength. I was thinking that I should've used some duraglass instead, but it looks to be fine the way it is...maybe less itchyness? HAHAHA

One thing I learned was that the rage extreme has a very short working time, about 5 mins or so. Therefore I have to make it in small batches to not waste and get a smooth application since I don't work too fast and apply it in small sections at a time. I really dislike this sanding phase...

I know its ugly right now, but I'll try and work on it more tonight. I have to sand a lot more of that filler off to get the general shape. Then i'll apply more filler to the areas that I missed. Then I can start sanding it with finer grit sandpaper to get rid of those deep scratches from the 40 grit that i'm using to shape it. Hopefully i'll have the final product ready to apply the primer and texture coat tonight. Then its off to the passenger side. =(


----------



## crucial24 (Jul 27, 2010)

Looking good


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Thanks! BTW, anyone got any suggestions on how I can improve the kicks? Applying the rage extreme was a little difficult because of all the contours, any tips?


----------



## jhmeg2 (Nov 6, 2009)

Patience is key. I have tried to rush once... what a mess. Lite coats of filler. Sand sand sand.
They look good.


----------



## jhmeg2 (Nov 6, 2009)

I tried mids in kicks, midbass In door. But didn't work. Best I found yet is mid and tweet on A-pillars, midbass in doors.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I know what you're saying about the sanding part! It seems as though i'll have to sand for days. What I also find difficult is blending the plastic, resin and filler. 

I work on it last night a little more and all I could do was sand sand and then sand. At least the shape is starting to come out better and the curves are coming out nicer. Pretty soon i'll be ready to shoot a layer of black paint and start to knock down high spots and make everything blend better. Hopefully it'll be ready by Saturday to paint! Only thing is that my local supply store for SEM paints only brings it in when you order it. Apparently it'll take 2-3 weeks for it to come in. =( I ordered everything I need last week.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I know what you're saying about having the mids and tweets in the pillars, but I don't wanna have it too intrusive. The only way I can see installing that setup is to remove the handle, unless you're talking about installing this in another vehicle other then a Tacoma. Having the handle bar to get in and out of the truck is pretty helpful.


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Looking good so far... I am scared that you will be very disapointed with your mids so low and tweets up high... You are about to enter the world of tuning nightmares...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/21694-08-tacoma-double-cab.html ... I tried just about every combo/ setup in my truck... I would agree that mids/tweets in the pillar are the best or one of the better setups, but I too am all about non intrusive setups and that's why I chose to place my mids in the factory tweet location and the tweets in sail panels... It sounds 10x better than the kicks IMO 

If you ever intend on playing your system with the doors open, say while camping, you will completely regret having them in the pillars...


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Hmm, mids in the factory tweeter location....interesting. That would be good if my mids fit there. I think I need about 2.5-3" of depth there to fit the peerless HDS exclusive mids that i'm using. Did you have to modify the metal on the door to make those mids fit? Looks to be the focal 3" mids?


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Mine are actually focal 4" mids... they have a 1.75 in mounting depth... I cut a 3" circle behind them w/ a circular saw and used a 1/2 in baffle... I have about 1/4-3/8 clearance up front and about 1/2-3/4 in the rear... I am positive that I could make something w/2.5 in of mounting depth fit but am unsure if 3" would do it...


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

If the kicks don't turn out the way I want them too then I may want to go your route. I just checked the specs of the mid and its only about 2" deep. I also have a set of dayton ref 4" mids and a tang band 3" bamboo that I could use. 

Did you use the existing tweeter mount bolt holes to mount the baffle or drilled an entire new set of holes?

Got any pics of what it looks like underneath the door panel?


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

You are correct- I used the existing holes... I try not to modify things beyond factory constraints... if that makes sense? I nearly always find ways to use factory mounting points. 

This pics are not of the finished product but you get the point...


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

That looks like its really easy to do. I may just give it a try.


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Very easy especially since I can help you take out the guess work... I could trace a quick paper template and mail it your way if you cross that road... Either way good luck


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

NotTheDavel, you got a PM!


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I bought this memory closed cell foam sanding block made by motorcraft and it helps with sanding curves so much! It seriously helped me to knock down high spots in the curves and make it look more smooth. Don't know how I sanded without this thing!

I test fit everything and am loving the way it is turning out. All I have to do now is smooth the edges on the ring and fill in a lot of pinholes. Yes, I have a lot of pinholes with the rage extreme...I suck at putting that stuff on.

I started on the next kick after learning from making the first kick and hopefully this one will go a lot smoother and faster. After that i'll be moving onto the tweets!


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Does anyone know if there is a difference between black paint made for guide coats and regular black paint? I have regular black paint at home, but wonder if I should go out and buy some made specifically for guide coats?


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

I wanted to ask before... any reason you are going to paint them and what is your desired effect? If this is to be driven daily Id encourage vinyl over paint all day for several reasons... Maybe I need to start minding my own business?:blush: I may have some extra vinyl I could send your way as well... I should probably check my supplies before I offer but I am not at home...


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I wanted to paint these because i'm haven't ever tried to wrap anything in vinyl. Wouldn't it be extremely hard to wrap these kicks with all the complex curves and contours? I don't want to attempt it knowing that its gonna turn out uber ugly and have to sand off all that glue...The shaping material was already a ***** to get the shape right and i'm not about to attempt that again! hahaha Maybe I could stitch something to make it fit better?

Painting seems the easiest way out for me and I have experience doing that. I plan on using a combination of SEM products to create some texture and paint it a matching OEM gray color. I've seen someone do it on their tacoma on tacoma world and it came out really nice. I just hope its durable. If it does get nicked, then I could always repaint it.


----------



## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Lookin good man . I saw you posted the pics on TW too. 

I'll try and get that reference disc out to you by the end of the week. I started a new job and I'm just needing to burn them and get my butt to the post office.


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

wish I was on the islands- wrapping isn't that hard and I'd love to help... 
Texture and paint isn't a bad option... You should be pretty happy going that route- it is definately easier than wrapping... Looking foward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

supersuk said:


> I wanted to paint these because i'm haven't ever tried to wrap anything in vinyl. Wouldn't it be extremely hard to wrap these kicks with all the complex curves and contours? I don't want to attempt it knowing that its gonna turn out uber ugly and have to sand off all that glue...The shaping material was already a ***** to get the shape right and i'm not about to attempt that again! hahaha Maybe I could stitch something to make it fit better?
> 
> Painting seems the easiest way out for me and I have experience doing that. I plan on using a combination of SEM products to create some texture and paint it a matching OEM gray color. I've seen someone do it on their tacoma on tacoma world and it came out really nice. I just hope its durable. If it does get nicked, then I could always repaint it.


Hey man.. wrapping in Vinyl, not hard at all.. use the right adhesive and MOST importantly A HEAT GUN (Key to making it easy)

Your kicks inspired me.. I MIGHT give it a shot in the future..

How do you like those daytons?


----------



## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

supersuk said:


> I bought this memory closed cell foam sanding block made by motorcraft and it helps with sanding curves so much! It seriously helped me to knock down high spots in the curves and make it look more smooth. Don't know how I sanded without this thing!
> 
> I test fit everything and am loving the way it is turning out. All I have to do now is smooth the edges on the ring and fill in a lot of pinholes. Yes, I have a lot of pinholes with the rage extreme...I suck at putting that stuff on.
> 
> I started on the next kick after learning from making the first kick and hopefully this one will go a lot smoother and faster. After that i'll be moving onto the tweets!


Hey, one other thing to help you out here that helped me..
Once you got these sanded down (80,120,180, 400 <- what I used) pick up some rustolem high build primer, spray them down, let them dry over night. Next day it was REAL easy to see where the mistakes are (I did this for my pillars) I used glazing putty and fixed the pinholes, low areas, let it dry, sanded again (180,400) and then gave it one more shot with the high build (at this point, everything should be smooth, if not use high grit sand paper) then coated with sealer primer. done. Helped alot in finding the errors..

Also, with the rage extreme, wait till it gets to ALMOST dry, use a 80grit sand block or paper and work down the high spots and make it uniform. It will goo up the paper, BUT save a bunch of time later on..


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

These are semi-complex... I had no issues wrapping them-


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Thanks for the tips! I shall use that process. I have some hi-build primer from Martin Senour? I think it was that. My local autoparts store was out of the SEM high build primer so he told me to use this one instead of the duplicolor one. I also got some glazing putty from evercoat, I think it was called poly-flex. The autobody/paint specialist there told me it was a really good one. I'll prolly work on it this weekend. Let see how it goes!

NotTheDavel - I saw those previously and thought it was beautiful! Great work there. 

Thunderplains/NotTheDavel - Does the heat shrink gun help the vinyl to mold over and shape it or does it shrink it? The only problem I see myself having is near the lower portion of the pod where it starts to contour down and kinda shrink a little. I would imagine the vinyl would bunch up there. Would the heat gun help shrink it to make it fit better?


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

BTW, what is the right adhesive for the vinyl? I might attempt this on my a-pillars! If that goes well then i'll be doing this on my kicks too. What a waste of SEM paint I have if I choose to go the vinyl route...


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Steven - I'll be waiting for the discs! I'm excited to hear how these sound and hopefully I won't be disappointed after all this work.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Thunderplains - The daytons are probably not playing to their full potential at the moment since the doors aren't sealed or have any sound deadener. The midbass isn't really there. I've been too busy working on the kicks that I haven't been able to apply it. Currently i'm using them as a two way component with some old kicker impulse tweeters I had laying around. Will be using this setup until the kicks and pillars are finished.

I'm still trying to decide how I wanna go about sealing the doors. I have some sheetmetal that I could use, also thought about using hardboard with resin to make it water resistant, then use either sheetmetal screws or liquid nails to attache whatever I use. I just want to do it right the first time. I've been thinking about the possibility of using the Peerless 8's I have for the rear doors as a sub...I may have to contact Mr Marv to make me some brackets for them! Just an idea so far since i'm pretty happy with the dayton audio sub I have.


----------



## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

supersuk said:


> Thunderplains/NotTheDavel - Does the heat shrink gun help the vinyl to mold over and shape it or does it shrink it? The only problem I see myself having is near the lower portion of the pod where it starts to contour down and kinda shrink a little. I would imagine the vinyl would bunch up there. Would the heat gun help shrink it to make it fit better?



What it does is heat the vinyl to make it conform very well. It won't shrink it, but it will make it VERY plyable to conform to the surface. And as a helpful hint, wave the heat gun back and forth, don't just point it at one spot and heat, it will melt the vinyl if you hold it in one spot too long.

What adhesive are you using?


----------



## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

supersuk said:


> BTW, what is the right adhesive for the vinyl? I might attempt this on my a-pillars! If that goes well then i'll be doing this on my kicks too. What a waste of SEM paint I have if I choose to go the vinyl route...



You could use 2 that work very well, one being the god of adhesives the other will do great, all depends on how much you want to go thru..

1 - DAP weldwood HHR, this requires a spray gun, but can be brushed on. One thing about this is that once the adhesive is applied to both surfaces and tacks for 10 mins or so and you bind the 2, thats it, it is never coming apart again, so it requires a little planning so you don't accidently tack the 2 surfaces.. SUPER stong, best carpet vinyl glue for auto out there..

2 - Instabond, less $$ then 3M 77 and MUCH better tack., here's the link
Insta-Bond Spray Adhesive (General Purpose), you might want to try this first as the weldwood HHR is hard to find and only sold by the gallon.

You could try super 77, but From the work I have done, you might not get long lasting adhesion. People have complained that items tacked with 77 started to peel over time.


----------



## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

supersuk said:


> Thunderplains - The daytons are probably not playing to their full potential at the moment since the doors aren't sealed or have any sound deadener. The midbass isn't really there. I've been too busy working on the kicks that I haven't been able to apply it. Currently i'm using them as a two way component with some old kicker impulse tweeters I had laying around. Will be using this setup until the kicks and pillars are finished.
> 
> I'm still trying to decide how I wanna go about sealing the doors. I have some sheetmetal that I could use, also thought about using hardboard with resin to make it water resistant, then use either sheetmetal screws or liquid nails to attache whatever I use. I just want to do it right the first time. I've been thinking about the possibility of using the Peerless 8's I have for the rear doors as a sub...I may have to contact Mr Marv to make me some brackets for them! Just an idea so far since i'm pretty happy with the dayton audio sub I have.



Take a look at my build log, I did extensive work on the doors, might give you some ideas.. I used Dynaplate. GREAT stuff.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Thanks for the advice! I'll prolly stay away from doing vinyl right now, but I may consider it later.

I worked on the pods more this weekend and got around to making the other one. So far one is complete and ready for paint while the other just had 1 layer of chopped mat applied. I will apply filler during the course of this week and hopefully will be ready for paint by Sunday. 

I auditioned the pods for a little while and so far they sound pretty good. I'm really impressed with the Peerless HDS Exclusive mids. They have a level of detail that I haven't heard in other speakers and are very smooth. Using two channels of the JL Audio 300/4 to power the speakers, they get plenty loud and don't sound strained at all. In its current state, the stage is pulled to the right. Most likely because the right kick has a direct line of sight to my right ear. The left kick is somewhat blocked by my steering wheel, but I can still see it. Hopefully with some tuning it'll have a solid center image. After I finish making the tweeter pods, hopefully it'll raise the stage a little. Right now its about chest height. I don't have any pics yet, but will in a couple days.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

So last week and this week has been a sad week since one of my channels on my PXA-H700 went dead. I removed it and sent it back to alpine for repairs. Its a good thing I had a PXA-H100 lying around and decided to install it to try out the imprint feature. This is how I hooked everything up:

Front: Hooked this up to the JL 300/4 using only two channels of input to actively crossover the mid and high.
Rear: Hooked this up to the JL 300/2 for the midbass
Sub: Hooked this up to the JL 250/1 for the sub

This is the only way I could figure out to connect all my components and let the imprint unit auto tune everything. I used all 6 recommended test positions from the imprint software using a 42" camera tripod made by targus to hold the mic in the correct positions. The amp gain settings were untouched from the previous install using the PXA-H100

Here is my findings:
1. The highs are a little to bright for my tastes, just like everyone says. I attenuated the tweeters a little by adjusting the gains on the amp.
2. The bass is def there. Its defined and hits pretty hard. Almost makes my sub sound like its in a sealed enclosure.
3. The center image has been set pretty well, however the sweet spot is very small. Most people say that the image gets pulled to the right. My head needs to be right at the center of the headrest for the perfect center image. If not, it sounds as if the center image gets shifted more towards the right.
4. The Midbass is a little too strong. This could be due to resonances in my doors since I didn't apply the sound deadener yet. I'm just too lazy.

Overall, i'm pretty happy with the results. Just wish I could adjust the eq after running the imprint...I'll mess around with this even more when I find some time. I know i'm prolly missing a lot more info, but if you have any questions just ask.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Over the weekend, I was able to begin the final process of finishing the right kick panel and getting it ready for paint. Not done yet since I did run out of time. However it is coming out pretty nice.

As for the tweeters, I temporarily mounted them in the OEM tweeter locations until I finish the tweeter pods. Hopefully the upcoming weekend? Anyways, here's some pics:


----------



## aV8ter (Sep 4, 2009)

Where did you purchase your 4'' Exclusives?

It looks like your mids and midbasses are close enough together that you could get away with running them on the same channel(set the midbasses LPF at its amp, and the mids HPF at its amp). Then youd had the channels you need to T/A and cross the tweets and sub with.

Kicks look great btw!


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Last night, my PXA-H700 came back from repair. I didn't get to test the output of the unit since its been raining here in hawaii off and on, however I did get to see if the display on the controller works. Now its just beautiful! Hopefully i'll install this soon, maybe the weekend? I'm gonna play around with the imprint more and see if I can get something that sounds really good to me and use my RTA to record the frequency response. I'll try to replicate that as much as I can with the PXA-H700. 

aV8ter - I got the exclusives from solen electronique or something like that. I might go back and buy 4 more pairs. They sound great! Much better then some dayton RS100's, focal 4W2's or any other mids that i've tried. I don't need to run the mids and midbass on the same channel since I have time alignment for all channels available at my disposal.

Thanks for the compliments! Hopefully they turn out really nice after I paint them...


----------



## NHXRUNNER (Dec 22, 2010)

I like how they turned out, I'd just be too afraid to kick them


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

I finally got my tweeter pods finished, well almost complete. I just have to do some pinhole filling. I'm still waiting for my local SEM representative to bring in the texture paint and matching color for the trim. For some reason they haven't been able to bring it in. I'll post more pics when its finished.


----------



## jjbeenken (Feb 12, 2010)

supersuk said:


> I know what you're saying about having the mids and tweets in the pillars, but I don't wanna have it too intrusive. The only way I can see installing that setup is to remove the handle, unless you're talking about installing this in another vehicle other then a Tacoma. Having the handle bar to get in and out of the truck is pretty helpful.


I'm putting my mids and tweets in the pillars. I have the mid right now as close to the bottom mounting tab. Thing really need to be where the tab is but i think it will be ok. Tons of listening so far. Not using any DSP but I do have dual 6.5 HV165l's in the front door! Blend great with my subs.


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Do you have any pics? I was worried about the texture not matching with the handle after doing all of the fabrication.


----------



## rj671j (Jul 7, 2007)

Tweeter pods look nice. Any chance you'd know if they would be the same dimensions as a 4th gen (2003-2009) Toyota 4runner?


----------



## jjbeenken (Feb 12, 2010)

supersuk said:


> Do you have any pics? I was worried about the texture not matching with the handle after doing all of the fabrication.


If you look at the armrest that is the material I am using. The pattern is not exact and the color is "close". I am going to remove the handle on the pillar and put the mids and tweets there. Not finished yet still trying to get a decent image. Kinda crappy pic. Midbass look better with covers on.


----------



## Wild Child (Feb 16, 2006)

Def need to dampen those doors, bty the RS225 are by far my fav 8's, and I liked the SLS's the least and I have been through a lot of 8's. nice build


----------



## jjbeenken (Feb 12, 2010)

Doors are VERY solid! Each one of my enclosures weigh 8lbs. Bolted to the door, Second Skin, sheat metal over inspection holes, butal rope stuffed, closed cell foam and MLV. Badass IMO:rockon:


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

Wow, those doors look intimidating!! Must have some crazy ass midbass. What kind of speakers are you using? Looks sorta like the hertz. 

Yenno, for some reason, it never occured to me to place the mid over the lower bolt hole of the handle and just get rid of it all together...Its something I should look into. However, something tells me that my stage width will suffer if placed there...


----------



## jjbeenken (Feb 12, 2010)

Hertz older hv165l. Is your sail panel image left side biased, what about center image. I tried my Hertz mids and tweets in the kicks but I would blow em up trying to get them to keep up. Stage was way low also. Running a 3way with passive xover on the mid/tw is kind of a pain in the ass. Sound great up high but imaging is always gonna be to the left or right, depending on the seat. Going for a 2 seat setup just for my pleasure. Probably never compete. Just want good tunes


----------



## supersuk (Apr 17, 2010)

The install I have is biased for the driver since i'm the only one driving truck. I didn't care about the passenger seat since my gf doesn't care about how it sounds. Plus, I think a 2 seater install is just way out of my skills and tuning capability. I'm still a nooooooob afterall.

The center image is pretty solid and the stage height is just right over the dash, but on some of the male vocals, the height is right at or slightly above the receiver. I'm pretty happy with how everything sounds right now, but there's room for a lot of improvement. I haven't tried some hardcore tuning as of yet. Got other priorities right now. Once some free time opens up then i'll start finishing up the install. Plus i'm still waiting for my local SEM dealer to bring in the texture coat and paint! Once I get um painted i'm gonna make some grills for the kicks and tweets. 

I may try and make some pods for the a-pillar from the idea you gave me! Thanks man.


----------

