# yaris build



## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Here's a abbreviated install log...
Started the project 2 years ago, It really has been off and on ever since.

Here's my attempt to recompile my build log.  Monday, Sept 13, 2010. LAST EDIT.

I put a build log up on a forum.. But a few months into it, the forum crashed and i lost everything.
Basically.. i will be *recovering and re-posting everything that happened between 10-20-2008 to 7-13-2010.* The date at which i left off on, and the date i began logging.

Just to re verify, and put it out there, the project has been on and off. I haven't been working on the project for two years straight.
I started the project when i was in my junior year of high school with very limited resources and knowledge.

So here we go ?... I 'll do my best to narrate the pictures... It's been a long time so forgive me if i don't remember exactly what i did.

Snapshot of my equipment before anything went into the car.
*Headunit*
Eclipse MKii cd7200

*Speakers* [front stage only]
re6.5sxxx 2 way

*Subs*
2 8" W7's...
2 DIYMA R12 Reference Subs...
New Battery Kinetik audio HC1400 (Which ended up being DOA)

*Amps*
JL audio 300/2 Black
DLS A3 Twin mono

*Install equipment*
Knu concepts 4 awg power/ground wires.
Knu concepts 12/16awg speaker wires
Street wires 0 awg..
second skin Damplifier pro
Raam mat Ensolite
Monster xln rcas..
Techflex/Heatshrink




















Deadening stage

Stage 1 : Second skin damplifier pro.. Doors / trunk
Stage 2 : Liquid deadening.. Throughout interior
Stage 3 : Ensolite foam (Raam Overkill) stacked on top.

Added foam all throughout crevices i could. Padded up front and rear wheel humps with 1/4" inch ensolite foam..

I plced Overkilled and plexiglass+liquid nails on the door openings.
The outer panel has a good 5-6 layers of liquid deadening.




























Trim panels 










Interior Before









Interior After 




















I also want to point out, that the pictures of the interior were taken at the beginning of the process.. (probably 1-2 layers down).
I ended up caking a solid 5 layers. Probably 7-8 in specific areas.


whats a pain is doing all of interior in a weekend because of school and Carpooling.
Basically had to strip interior Friday, get it all back in on Sunday. And i didnt even get the wires in at that time... Let's just say i didn't get much sleep..

That of course, required me to re-strip the interior the following weekend. I finished up the deadning and ran the wires through the car. I'll be honest with you, it took me a good 4 days of straight work. I ended up skipping a day of school b/c i wanted to get it all done. :laugh:

****... That was a PIA !


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Headunit 









Headunit wiring mess









Insulated and organized









Fuse access









Deck put in


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

These beat so fawking loud... the pair of 8w7









8w7









I bought the 2 8w7's as an experiment..
I wasn't really serious on buying them until i realized how cheap they were being sold for.
I couldn't let the opportunity pass me up.. so out of curiosity i bought a pair.
I just had to put the hype to the test.

I ran across a tutorial online [diyma].. of a guy utilizing concrete tubes to make a cheap and effective enclosure.
So hey, i tried it out. 

Drew up the plans, sketched it out.









And i made it happen. My first test subwoofer box! Cost me 20 bucks.



























Size reference


















I wish i have you all experience the w7's.. they were nuuuts
Hopefully this video will justify them... I would upload it to youtube, but i lost the raw video file.. (tell me if this works)

http://www.facebook.com/v/1014759858515

Anyways.. After messing with the w7's.. I realized that they were just too loud for my econo-car.. I ended selling them and making profit.
win win, +cash +experience!


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

JL 300/2









DIYMA r12.. 40 pound magnet.. pure SQ goodness









Anyways...

On with the install










Power was ran









Big 3..
Yeah.. it doesn't look pro.
Wrapped with high heat electrical tape then shrink tape.. Expensive, but wow-- well worth it.




















bucket of messiness


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*Door pod build up*

It's no easy task fitting a fat woofer in shallow doors.











****ing FAT









Yeah.. I tried stuffing it in. fail









The drawing board









So... Being a dumbass.. I built my door pods out of pure body filler.. ROFL
Yeah.. i discovered glassing AFTER i finished layering 20 stacks of evercoat.
So not only did i make it 100 times harder, it's also very brittle in comparison to glass. :[
shieet
This is my first car, and this was my first mod ever (even before learning how to change the oil), and it took a VERY long time.
Took me about a week before i even summed up the courage to hack up my door.
Hours of sanding and re applying body filler.. :'|

Initial cut--









Thank my buddy for the crooked cut..he made the rings for me. Which by the way fitted VERY poorly.
(This was before i owned my own plunge router & circle jig)
A good lesson was learned here.. "Buy your own tools. Do your own cuts and work."


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*Finishing up the pod*

































































*Finished pics. Installed back on*










I skipped the tweeter install... I didn't bother logging it..
The tweeters took me a most, 2 hours to install. Pvc cups mounted to A-pillars.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Trunk update : My original plans --










Sketched a quick 2 minutes layout on Paint. I will be using an SI Mag v4 (won it in a DIYMA give-away last year ). I will be pushing it with a DLS twin a3, and mono bridge it to 870w to 2 ohms dvc. I'm hoping to somehow create a space to submerge the amps under the false floor. I don't want to sacrifice my spare tire accessibility however, so I'm trying to formulate an idea to create a 'hinged' door that will allow me to access it, (noted by red line)

I might also submerge the box into the false floor, and do an inverted mount on the si mag.










pic of si mag butt:











-----------------

6 hours of research and compiling materials
2 clicks.
spent roughly 300$

bought more equip.. useless but cool misc stuff (techflex/heatshrink/tape/glue/gaskets)
picked up a plunge router, circle jig (shoulda just DiY'd it), bits, and evercoat hardener.

Should be coming in some time next week. . . As soon as the hardener comes in, i'm going to start layering the doors back up.

I can't believe how much money i'm spending on tools/equipment..
Word, i should have done this from the get go.


*
A couple hours later *










3d render. Except, 1 JL amp, 1 DLS amp in mid under plexi. Sub probably located on right side as well.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

So i went and looked at my trunk..
Did a little reevaluating.. This is what i came up with.

Video link :: 
YouTube - trunk layout PM.avi


























They are, to the best of my abilities scaled. 

The sketchup isn't a 100% accurate representation of where things are going to be/how they will exactly look. Just wanted to have a better visual concept for the design.

The sub is going to be glassed to fit. The face of the enclosure will most likely be glassed as well. I have techflex/heatshrink and connectors all on its way, wire layout and pathing will be routed and cable clamped from underneath.

I'm not sure how much pre planning i'll be able to do beforehand, i almost feel like i'll just have to lay it all out and play with it in order to get the perfect fit.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*08-26-2010 , Thursday*


Random supplies from Parts Express









Just got the plunge router and cut out a ring for practice on a scrap mdf.










3 cuts in ;; the woofer gasket fits like a glove.. Don't mind the silly pic, the gf got bored.









Yes guys -- Harbor Freights 3 dollar 18" Ratchet clamps.. Don't hate
One of them is already breaking -.-









Ring cut out. I would layer another 3/4" mdf on it to make it more sturdy.. and give it a roundover + sanding treatment.. But since the ring was just for practice, meh










The trunk side was masked up : Yeah.. I missed a tiny spot.. Good thing i saw it and corrected it before i laid the resin.
By the way, at the time i only had 1" masking tape... So that's what i used... can you say zen patience ?!?!?









I did about half of the masking...before i threw in the towel.. 
To my surprise, my gf volunteered to finish the job-- She made it look easy... Oh and she fit perfectly in the trunk, ROFL.

















Drop cloth spread out : 









My lovely workspace.. Installing peg board and work bench


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*08-26-2010 , Thursday*
--- Continued











Glassing essentials 









Chopped mat... itchy!









Heres a pic.. hard to see. With several layers of chopped mat and cloth. Still curing--









Pulled it out




































Fits perfectly -- If you look closely, you'll notice that the bottom corners of the plug are a pinkish color. This is NOT good! All that pink is excess resin, which i had to sand down--










------------------------
-
-
-
*
Reinforcing the glassed plug*
An MDF base will be attached to the fiberglass plug. The enclosure is going to be half mdf, half glass. Since the pictures, i have added about 3-4 layers of chopped mat in the corners, and 2-3 layers of cloth weave in the general areas. I have begun laying down Kyntex Biaxial--. The end game will consist of 7-8 layers. Probably more in select parts. Estimations : 2-3 of chopped, 2-3 cloth weave, and 2 layers of Kyntex Biaxials.

The kyntex really saves a **** load of time, and can conform to tight corners-- just takes a little extra resin. I may also resin in some nylon ropes.. The more the merrier-- Once the mdf pieces are kitty haired, and glassed in -- i will add some braces through the enclosure. 

*Change in amp placement*
I'm shying away from the whole ' Amp wall ' and ' false floor ' idea.. I figured that since i am only doing the install for myself, i don't have to go out my way to make things flashy. Instead i'm going to fab a 'hanging shelf' from the rear deck so that it won't interfere with the spare tire accessibility and general trunk spacing. Idk why i haven't thought of it before. I need to find a good way to snake the wires.

*Update on Door pods*
Oh yea.. One more thing. refinished the doors pods. reinforced, sculpted and everything.. So far no sign of the slightest of flex. My inference was correct: The cracking wasn't due to heat nor tension of opening/closing the door (The driver side was less cracked than the passenger), they cracked because they were sculpted before installed. Once the panel was attached to the door, they conformed to the fitment and thus warped the pod. This time around, i worked straight from the door, without uninstalling the panel. Was a bit harder, but everything is good now.

*Future plans*
*- Redo Tweeters in a-pillars*
Once i finish the trunk, i will most likely glass the tweeters into the a-pillars. The cheapy pvc's are annoying to look at. Since the tweets are already aimed, molding them on should be a breeze *cross fingers*. They will be vinyl wrapped so i won't have to worry too much about getting a perfect finish.
*- Create a face on trunk lid*
Right now, the trunk lid is covered in 2 layers of damplifier pro + 2-3mm of liquid deadener. To sum it up, it looks like ass. So i might create a trunk lid face to cover it all up.. this will be for aesthetics.

*Equipment on its way:* makita jigsaw + rotary dremel. Pyramid Acoustic Foam.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*08-27-2010 , Friday*

Look what i got yesterday... 5 Gallons of second skin spectrum + air nozzle.
For 65$ !! It retails 250 + shipping. And the air nozzle, 30 bucks. :] 









Here's a pic of the Kyntex Biaxials. After one layer, this is what it looks like.
since the pictures i have added about 2-3 layers more of KYNTEX.. Crazy strong, i think i'm going overkill for just one 12.
meh.













































Here's just a shot of the trunk.. nothing special. I just wanted to have something to look off of when i'm trying to formulate some ideas.









Here's prolly what i'll be shooting for now. Changing up the designs...
False floor = too much raised height... b/c i'm keeping spare










-------
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-
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i gave the plug a good strength test this morning.. Holy crap its tough.. 
My jigsaw should be arriving later today, so i'll be mounting the base mdf piece really really soon.
I thought about it, and realized that i don't have very much security planned out. 
My first security mod will be creating a flush cardboard piece that will hide my deck. Then wrap it in vinyl.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*8-27-2010, Friday continued*

The beast has arrived :]










Fiberglass plug has been trimmed.. It was such a B*tch to do.
I'm itchin'










Measurements .85 cu packing peanuts.









Thickness of glass. Almost 1/2".. i'd say 7/16"









Cardboard template trimmed up









*8-28-2010 , Saturday*

Boy.. Fiberglassing isn't hard.. but it's really just a nuisance to work with simply because its so messy!

Anyways heres todays updates.



















drilled some holes.. hopefully it'll help with the bonding.


















Light layer of mask to catch the resin when i bond it together.. I'm going to reinforce the piece with gorilla tape to ensure no movement while curing. The mask layer will also ensure a snug fit.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*8-29-2010 , Sunday
* 



WOW. 

Alright.. I'll admit.. I didn't get much done today. I was way too busy fooling around..

Since i'm planning on mounting the amps to the underside of the rear deck, i stripped a little interior. The C-pillars gave me a headache.. There were fricken metal anchors placed into the c-pillar design-- Holy FFFF shiiite. I ended up just yanking them towards the front of the car with my body weight, but there's a weird way you have to turn them... 

Heres a quick shot of the rear deck removed..
yes.. i need to wash my car.. But it keeps raining over here.










The speakers really gave me trouble... removing the last two screws right by the window.. what a PITA!

I didn't feel like wasting a perfect pair of ****ty 6x9's... I mean i probably only played them (personally) for 2 months before unhooking them. So i mean, i can't just trash them you know?!

Here's what i did with the ****-tastic 6x9's
Don't worry guys.. its only mounted on trash cardboard.


















*09-08-2010* , Wednesday 

I attached the base mdf piece to the plug. Basically just used resin reinforced w/ saw dust + tiny specs chopped mat.. then stuff it with csm as far down as i could. Today i reinforced the seam with more kyntex.. 1 layer on top. 1 on bottom.

I also cut out the side mdf's.. So far so good.

To do
• reinforce the seam.. (maybe 1 more layer..)
• attach mdf sides
• reinforce sides
• trim fiberglass
• measure out, cut out top face
• cut ring into face
• attach face, reinforce it
• add carpet/vinyl -> finish

Then its on to the amp rack (shelf)

Bottom mdf piece glassed on.. gap filled primarily w/ resin + chopped strand mat + sawdust.









2nd pic of bottom..
After this layer of CSM.. Biaxial kyntex was laid over to reinforce the seam.









Pic of side mdf walls put up..
Gorilla glued down, screwed in from bottom. then reinforced with resin lining to ensure no air leakage.
Gaps which connected the mdf to fiberglass were resin'd in place then csm -> bixial kyntex.. inside and out. I filled the tub with water... no leaks on my first attempt :thumbup:









Next.. Top face mdf was traced out..
Cut to shape-- then ring's position was drawn on









Circle jig cheat sheet & ideas











Measuring depth of cut









First plunge cut and routed out.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

I actually lost the pivot pin for the jasper jig.. I felt screwed at first. I ended up grabbing a nail, and wrapping it with several layers of scotch tape to increase the thickness. I then stuck it through the bottom of the face. Voiilaa, problem fixed.
1st cut in... 









Many.. cuts later..
Here's a raw picture.. the flushed routing hasn't been cleaned off/sanded down. You get the basic idea though. I decided to utilize the mdf ring i cut out a couple weeks ago... I don't like wasting :]. Anyways, the speaker ring is going to act as a border for the sub woofer.. I cut a little extra on the face flushing to give leeway for the carpet or vinyl wrapping. With the border, i can also throw in a little two tone. Also -- The edges of the speaker ring have yet to be rounded out.









Face, speaker ring, routed top. If you look closely.. I didn't trim the fiberglass tub straight :[.. So there is a bit of a slant when i lay down the face. No problem though-- I will attach the face onto the mdf (which is flush), then reglass the gap closed.









Here you can see the gap i'm talking about :[.
It's ok.. Glass is my magic eraser!


















I figured that while i'm at it.. I might as well overkill the tub.. Shoot no harm.
Since i have 5 gallons of spectrum at my disposal.. I didn't think it would hurt if i lined the tub and face.. Here's a pic of the first layer of the spectrum applied. I will probably only add 1-2 layers... It's not even needed. And I don't want to mess up the internal volume, this stuff can get thick.




















*An Update moment--*

A friend got me interested in Hybrid.. So i did a little digging. Contacted Scott buwalda and asked for a retail price sheet.
He's selling b-stock 'damaged' box equipment for 25% off retail price.

I was thinking on buying a set of legatias... and replacing the RE xxx comps i have installed.
Then it hit me... Why do i want to put 500$ speakers in a car i don't even own. Yeah..-- it's still my parents car...Yes i'm 18.
Don't get me wrong, i love the yaris ... i drive it everyday, pay insurance, maintain it. But i didn't buy it. I'm grateful enough that they're allowing me to do my install.

Perhaps on my next install.. I'll throw in a set of Legatias. I'll probably rip out the uber deck from the yaris and replace it with something cheaper--
I'd probably throw a pair of DIYMA r12's for bass... Maybe the new si slim sub...maybe a ssa.

*man this is bad, i'm not even done with the yaris and i'm thinking on my next install*
I got an itch :|

Truth be told, i hacked up the yaris pretty good. (Like my body filler door pods.. WOW) I'll admit, many things were done rashly because i didn't have enough knowledge nor resources to do things right the first time. I started the install w/o a job. But boy, my next install will be clean as hell. I really feel like i'm learning something here, and that's what counts.
Anyways, done with my emo moments. On to the build log! -- Going to add on another layer of spectrum on the tub and face before i go to work.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*09-10-2010, Friday*

Why hello there,









Yeah, i got tired of technique. Screw it. These make my scrubby applications flawless.




































It looks like i'll be inverting my sub.. for sure. I need to get as much airspace as i can.. 
Kind of looks funny though, but what can you do. Only 5.5".. Can you say shallow beast?
No problems with hinge clearance too.. I have tons of space.
Don't worry guys, the mdf portions are perfectly straight. It looks off because the mdf face is slouching on the slant of the fiberglass(bad trim job).

I'm trying to think of a creative way to terminate my wiring.. though..

*09-12-2010, Sunday*

Meet Mr.ugly.

Here's the underside of speaker baffle,
Spectrum'd a few layers.
Added that 3/4" ring.

Put up a ghetto dowel fence.. to act as a frame for when i glass.
It was a pain in the ass.. I had to trim every individual piece to size, then hot glue them into place.. :help:









side









The top being mounted. Glued, screwed, clamped.
I regret buying gorilla glue over titebond. Polyurethane glue is such a beezneetch to work with.. not to mention only half the strength as titebond.









Here you can see what i have to repair :[.
The gap which i must fill.. because i did a sloppy trim job. :thumbdown:
Lesson learned, FOR SURE. 
I would just wrap the side of the plug w/ cloth.. and reglass. but if i did, it would create a hump that wouldn't sit flush with the trunk.









speaker ring rounded


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

****, so i just realized..
the SI Mag v4 ... has dual voice coils. :|
I totally forgot, so instead of powering 870watts @ 2Ω that i had originally planned.
It will be getting 1000watts @ 1Ω

Recommendation is .85-1 cu feet of airspace.
Power rating : 600-1000w

Also .. .the enclosure that i built is ~.85 cubic ft.
I don't know why i didn't make it a 1 cu ft enclosure..

HURMMM 

Anyone have a take on it ?...

1,000 watts.. .85 cu ft sealed... si mag...

I would mount it normally if i could.. But that would give me even less space in the enclosure taking volume displacement into account...
Is the SI mag v4 even designed to be inverted ?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

great work!

nice V.

and you look like a headless routerer here! haha


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## aV8ter (Sep 4, 2009)

Try it as it is now. You got so much work in there now there is no need to start over just to get an extra .15 cuft. If it sounds too boomy/peaky, throw some polyfill in the enclosure.


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## jimp (Jul 12, 2009)

nice work.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That would be my suggestion as well, polyfill, and see what that does. But I would try this first and see how it sounds. Also you may want to consider, with the 8's back there, you may not need to throw so much power at the 12. Just a thought. You know the other thing you can do for the off cut, is cut a few slits in the existing box. Take some cardboard and make a form that goes flush with the high points and that should raise up above your low point cut. Then use kitty hair and resin and fill it in. Then when the forms are pulled off, to add strength, bond the two from the inside with some mat and resin. That's just a thought thought. The slits will allow the new resin to inner lock with the old panel. 

Really if you're worried that poly fill will not do the job and you want a little bit bigger enclosure, you could do the form idea all the way around the existing enclosure and raise up the walls. Then you'll add height and in the end can add enough to flush mount the sub too if you wanted. All just suggestions. 

Otherwise the build looks good. Nice work!! I wish I had the skills to do those digital mock ups like you did. I'm putting lots of equipment in a small place and could really use some pre plans.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

great job so far. i really like you idea for lifting the amp rack


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## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

I like what you did with the doors. It blended really well. Good job!


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Thanks all--

Yeah.. the project has just been stretching on and on.. I feel that it's near impossible to be content with an install when there's always room for improvement. :knife:.

It's the vicious cycle we are all too familiar with.
The Door pods were the silliest things ever.. I'll admit
Looking back at it, i don't know how i managed to sculpt 20 billion layers of body filler without realizing there was a better way to do it.

------------------------------

*MIND RECALL*

So i've been trying to figure out why on earth i made the enclosure .85 cu.
I knew I had a reason... i just couldn't remember it!
I think it's because on the side of the Si Mag v4 box, they recommended a sealed enclosure with the dimensions of *8x18x14.5* stuffed with *1 lb polyfill*.

Taking in account that 3/4" MDF was used, and that the dimensions were outer...I calculated those dimensions, and got an internal volume of .81 cu. I bumped the .81 to .85 cu just to make it even.

Since the recommended .81 cu enclosure features a normal mounted driver, i'm now thinking that my .85 cu inverted setup will be just fine. 
I'll just add polyfill, as you all have recommended.


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scooter99 said:


> ...Just a thought. You know the other thing you can do for the off cut, is cut a few slits in the existing box. Take some cardboard and make a form that goes flush with the high points and that should raise up above your low point cut. Then use kitty hair and resin and fill it in. Then when the forms are pulled off, to add strength, bond the two from the inside with some mat and resin. That's just a thought thought. The slits will allow the new resin to inner lock with the old panel.
> 
> Otherwise the build looks good. Nice work!! I wish I had the skills to do those digital mock ups like you did. I'm putting lots of equipment in a small place and could really use some pre plans.


That's actually a great idea.. But i ended up kitty hairing the gap just a few hours ago. A not so pleasant experience.. I can't wait till i sand it down.

As for digital mock ups. Just sketch your design on paint or a piece of paper. Then download google sketchup. It's super easy to use. Literally, click and drag. They have tutorials online. Depending on how skilled/patient you are, you can actually design drafts that are 100% scaled.


Oh, and no hating on the v! 
There's a reason i'm wearing it to work, muhahah​
*================================*

On with the build log.

So i took a leveler to speaker baffle and realized that it was entirely crooked. While hot glueing the dowel posts from the face to plug, i must've raised the entire edge.









I was going to remove the dowels and redo them entirely. But before i did, i got an idea...".. reheat the glue.."









Plugged the heat gun in, and got to work. I reheated the glue, and used the clamps to re-adjust the height. A few minutes later and i got it near perfect.









I whipped up my first ever batch of kitty hair. Congrats me.
At first.. i was very methodical with my ratios..











I have some 3m glass bubbles on hand.. So i added some. (i'm not even sure if they do anything in a kitty hair batch.
I wasn't sure exactly how much i needed... So i just scooped some into the mixture and called it GOOD! epper:
This is where my sloppiness began...

_For those who don't know, 3m glass bubbles are hollow microspheres that make your epoxy/resin easier to sand. Also makes your batch 'putty' like pending on how much you add._









*About 1-2 hours and 3 batches later..*









I started from the inside of the plug. Grabbing handfuls of kitty hair i mashed as much as i could into the gap. I utilized the dowels as a reference point. Without them, i dont think the kitty hair would even have anything to grip to.

After i got the inside as best i could, i took fat chunks of kitty hair and rubbed it across the outside. Getting the batch to fill the cracks was probably the hardest thing. 

I tried to be as thorough as i could.. But like i said, the more and more i got into it, the sloppier it got. Once i exhausted my first batch of kitty hair, i grabbed some resin & bondo and made a new batch on the spot. I ended up ripping 3 or so pairs of gloves, and at some instances, getting my hands caked up kitty hair. Good thing i'm using 4 dollar harbor freight clamps!











We'll see how it cures tomorrow??


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

Nice work man!


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

And no mention to me....tisk tisk....on another note, this install is looking CLEAN dude. Your router work is in every way exponentially superior to mine. I love it. Beautiful stuff dude.


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## cheesybass (Aug 17, 2010)

Overall, for this being your first build this is pretty professional looking, IMO.

Not bad! Keep up the good work!


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

elvisjer said:


> And no mention to me....tisk tisk....on another note, this install is looking CLEAN dude. Your router work is in every way exponentially superior to mine. I love it. Beautiful stuff dude.


HAHA!! 
ACTUALLY, you are mentioned!
For giving me those crappy fitting speaker rings .
teaching me to 'buy my own tools and do my own cuts'
lol! giving you a hard time bro, the rings actually saved my life.


aheeeem.
EVERYBODY, MEET ELVISJER.. aka my fabbing sensei.
Everything i know about car audio, this guy has taught me. He's a real motivating factor behind my install. -- He's also the one i go to when i need a reality check with some of my ideas!

Think of him as my 'gateway drug' to the world of audio.

How's that? :rimshot:


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

.
Awesome build, great car! jeje

.
Derick


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

So i've been trying to figure out how i'm going to finish the enclosure once everything is said and done.

I really would like to vinyl the box black, with a white trim on the bordering speaker ring.. 

But I'm not so sure anymore...I think it's b/c of horror stories i've been reading on how tough it is to work with. The enclosure i have is flat though, so perhaps it'll be easy going.

I've been looking at the selection they have here:
Your Auto Trim Store

I have no idea where to start. Has anyone ordered from the above website? I'm not sure which vinyl i'll need.

I might end up doing another boring carpet job.


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## ReloadedSS (Aug 26, 2008)

Great work, very pro in look and in your attention to detail. I'm shocked that this is your first time...my first install way back when was nowhere near this level.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Thanks for all the compliment!

Really wish i had this kind of feedback a long time ago, it really keeps me motivated.

I got a more done today..

I went to a local hardware store and picked up some braces.










To give you an idea of where they'll be going.



















-----------------------------

*Enclosure work*

Removed the clamps : Here's the kitty hair cured up. Nothing much to look at 










I hooked up some coarse 36 grit sandpaper to my palm sander. And went straight to work. I don't know if Kitty hair is supposed to be this easy to sand... But sanding this **** down was no sweat. I'm really hoping that it was b/c of the 3m glass bubbles that i added in. :sweatdrop:..









After I sanded down as much as i could with the palmsander...i grabbed my rotary tool and 'detailed' the edges out.

I wiped down the plug to see how i did.. And ****, there were tons of high's and low's. I wasn't anywhere near satisfied with the results! 
Yeah-- The gap was fully closed which was my main concern. But it looked like butt. I knew i could do better.
I grabbed some resin, milled fiber, 3m glass bubbles, evercoat rage and some hardeners and whipped up my first batch of milkshake! (something new everyday) 
I'm a little sketchy with the strength of the kitty hair.. so this extra layer should really help.

I added in about 3/4 scoops of milled fiber.. 5 oz of resin...1/2 scoop glass bubbles.. and added in enough evercoat rage to get the consistency i wanted. 

I flipped the enclosure on the side and poured the batch on. Spreading the milkshake w/ a brush.
(Dark pic)



























So far it's curing up well...despite the temperature and humidity (its about 60º.. just started raining)


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## TEGBOY (May 4, 2008)

I am loving those door pods, well done!!


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

outstanding. those door pods are fantastic. :thumbsup:


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

great job so far.... i'm quite impressed actually with how fast you have picked up with the fiberglassing...


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

theRESONANCE said:


> So i've been trying to figure out how i'm going to finish the enclosure once everything is said and done.
> 
> I really would like to vinyl the box black, with a white trim on the bordering speaker ring..
> 
> ...



Hey josh let me know if your going to order any vinyl i will go in on some with you. save a lil on shipping. 

keep the hard work going..


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

Vinyl can be tricky for sure, one of the good things about it is that if you don't like the turnout, it CAN be removed and re-done. I'd easily say Josh has picked up fiberglassing faster than anyone I've ever met with doubt in my mind. His work doesn't only look good in photos, these are legit. I'm really thinking about buying a jasper now after seeing their work compared to my DIY jig type thing. 
On carpet vs vinyl, IMO it's a matter of if you want to making it look like the box was there from the factory in which case carpet tends to give off that look or vinyl kind of is the one step up making it look like it was a custom job but still not getting to the OMG LOOK I'M CUSTOM look of polished and painted Fiberglass.


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

The jasper jig is worth the money.. I'd never cut a hole again with a jigsaw.


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

How is it going?

D.


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## stangman67 (Apr 8, 2009)

That is a pretty nice damn system for a yaris lol!


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

Hey, Josh still need that sander? got my turbo install done


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

You're fricken Crazyy Chris.
Man you're making me wish i had something other than the yaris!

Anyways,
A little update on the build log.

It's been a while since i last posted.. Fall quarter just started, so i'm back to school. I also had a hectic work schedule--42 hours. I've been trying to dedicate most of my free time towards the build, but even then the progress has been slow.

So after the milkshake batch cured, i sanded it down.
At this point, i didn't even care about the nasty imperfections. 
The milkshake did its job in sealing all of the major dips.









I stuck the enclosure back into the trunk to check the fitting, but noticed there was still a gap where the enclosure met the sides of the trunk..
>:O! So guess what i did..









A little release... ( I got the real stuff this time!.. Goodbye spray pam)









More kitty hair!









Caked on goood









Once the kitty hair cured up, i pulled it out of the plug.









I took a belt sander to it, because the palm sander wasn't working fast enough.
Still took me like 45mins-hour though! Goooood golly.









Also.. I've decided to mount the woofer normally.. (Yeah i cant make up my mind)
So the circle you see above is where the terminal is going to be. Pretty cool that it'll fit on the back of the box. 

Yeah.. i know, it isn't perfect. I'm going to go in with some body filler and finish the face..
I'm done with sanding kitty hair. >:O.. God that stuff is tough.


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

It's still lookin' fantastic! So I have to ask something important here. You DO have some type of power sander right? You're not just sanding this kitty hair by hand right? With a power sander it doesn't take long at all.


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## MaXius (Dec 18, 2009)

Belt sander.

I wish I had one of those beasties..


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Yeah, Belt sander.

I dont know, It still took me a long time.. I swear it was 45 minutes... But now that i think of it, 45 minutes is just an insanely long time to be grinding kitty hair w/ a belt sander. It probably felt like Hell because of all the **** flying around .


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Got off work then drove straight home.

Jumped out the car and opened the garage.

Went over to my supply crate, pulled out the bucket of evercoat and got busy.:rockon:

Whipped up a fat batch of filler, got my squeegee and put a nice thin layer over the top.









Additional view:









After a little sanding : 









2 hours later : Sanding continued: 



























Done.
****.. 2 hours of hand sanding this face was nothing compared to the sweat i put into my doors..

I could take it a step further... and smother a layer of glazing putty to perfect the face.
But since its going to be wrapped, i don't have to do anything!

All i need is some volara & vinyl.. Oh.. and some DAP contact cement
I think the box weighs about 30 pounds. I'll take a scale to it when i get the chance.


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

its looking really smooth.. dont you love sanding...


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

whats the small hole for? terminal?


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Really great work! I see you have found the finish work and small 
details to be addicting. Once you start and have so much time in 
something like this at a point you just keep on trucking. You see
how well it has turned out this far and you want to even take it to
the next level. GREAT JOB! It will be something to be very proud
of once your finished.


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

get to work...


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

I agree....don't lose your steam bro! I want to see/hear it!


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## Mayhem Industriez (Jun 15, 2010)

Man I can't wait to see this car when it is done. This is one BA yaris


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

.
*Go Yaris Go!*


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

*Thursday - January 27th, 2011


*Its been a long while since i worked on the car.
Took a winter break... I just hate working in a non-heated garage during cold weather. Makes installs so dreary!










Finally mounted the speaker ring to the enclosure.









Measured out the cloth.. (Boo for buying non-backed automotive carpet). And applied Welwood DAP original to both the enclosure/carpet using a brush. 

It took me two attempts to wrap the enclosure correctly. The first time around i didn't wait long enough.. (only gave it about 10 mins @ ~60º weather). Second time around which worked out-- i waited somewhere around 20-30 mins for the DAP to tack up. 
Waiting for this **** to semi-cure really makes a worlds difference.









All wrapped up ! :] The entire process took me a couple hours... 95% of the time was waiting for the dap to tack up. 5% was me pressing the carpet on.









Test fitting the sub.

Mounting the terminal was pretty straight forward.
*Front side*

















Grabbed some 12g speaker wire, splice...crimp.. heatshrink.









Attached to backside of terminal









Drilled the pilot holes, punched the terminal in and screwed it down.
Sadly, the carpetting seem is a pretty visible. Not too bad for my first time though, i guess.
Lucky for me, no one is even going to be able to see the terminals anyway.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

1lb. Polyfill !! :rockon: WOOO
You'll also notice that I didn't bother wrapping the entire enclosure, either. No need to when half of it is going to be hugging the wall anyways. 
I figured the more stuff i add on, the more trouble i could get into in terms of fitting.









Stuffed, then set up wiring for the series.









Fitment picture in the trunk.









100% spot on w/ fitting! No gaps whatsoever, makes me want to cry in joy. That extra step in the kittyhair process really paid off. At least i know all that itchiness was not in vain.


*Next Step*
Figure out how to get an amp rack in here...


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## maxxis (Jun 10, 2008)

Incredible job on the enclosure build. 

On a side note you did spend too much time on sanding.  Carpet allows you to get away with murder when it comes to finishing.

Still a fantastic job.


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## packetrace (Jan 28, 2011)

WATATATATAA!!!!!!!!!!! NICEEE JOBBBB


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

good job. really like the doors.


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## Mixerdriver (Nov 8, 2010)

nice job 
subscribed


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Thanks guys :].

Yeah. I realized that much of my sanding efforts were wasted.
That carpet is a beast. It's so thick, it dulled 3 of my blades. Also a pain in the ass to drill through.

*Saturday January 29th, 2011*

I finally mounted in my box!

I started off by adding T-nuts along the ring. It's my first time using them.
I had to cut away some more of the carpeting to get a snug fit w/ the t-nuts.
I then pilot drilled 1/4" holes, then grabbed a metal C-clamp and tightened them into position. After they were well fitted, i took a hammer to them just for greater measure.

And no, the girly hairband isn't mine.









I was digging through some boxes in the garage and found my diyma R12!! Of course i had to fit it.









It fits perfectly inverted...clearance and everything. Since i'm using t-nuts to secure the sub, i'll be able to swap between the r12 and si mag.









Picked up a couple of T-braces. Bent them according to fitment. 









Attached to box.









Enclosure bolted into car! I used stainless self tapping screws and lined a little of the threads w/ loc-tite. Silicone was added on the outside to prevent rust/leak.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Mounted in the si mag, which was a piece of cake thanks to the tee-nuts!
I also didn't use the rubber surround that stereo integrity provides with the mag. It was just too frustrating to work with... I don't know why they didn't just build it into the ring itself..
I guess they were trying to hide the screws, or something. 
To compensate for the lack of rubber surround, i added in a speaker gasket. I used the speaker gasket from Parts Express. It can be found here: PARTS EXPRESS - Speaker Gasket



I also ordered some security screws for good measure :]. It'll be perfect too since they're black.



















Shot of terminals from the back side. (From the cabin looking into trunk) Works out perfectly.










I trimmed a little bit of the 'stock false floor' (little plastic piece that sits over spare tire) and felt carpet so that it would fit w/ the box in.









My initial goal was met. Access to the spare.


















I also created a flap to cover my deck... using scrap cardboard and carpet. When fully seated, you can't see the brown of the cardboard. (Unfortunately a bad picture job!) At night when looking through the windows, it looks like one giant hole.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

great fitment on the box... you should be really proud of your work here... many shops wouldn't spend enough time to ensure the fitment you have.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

wow, impressive O_O


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## stream (Mar 24, 2009)

*theRESONANCE*
Awesome work! 
About "it's not my car". I was in the same situation 1-2 years ago, you know, you have good opportunity to get extra experience to make your OWN car better. Just do it untill you like it.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

this sub enclousrure you did is really giving me a good idea on what i think i might do with my glasses box, i really like how you did it.


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## thetoner (Sep 21, 2010)

Great looking build, very clean and definitely inspirational for young guns like myself. Can't believe that's your first build! Also, how much did those 8W7 enclosures weigh?


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Thank you all for your compliments :]
I'm glad i'm able to give a little inspiration back to the diyma community.

I'm really proud of what i accomplished. I showed it to the family and they were like, "Oh, well thats pretty cool." 
Haha, oh well. I'm probably just really stoked about it b/c i made it. *tear
It's what matters the most anyway.

What's crazy is just how nice a simple enclosure like this looks in person (vs. pictures online). It makes me wonder what some of the 'pro' builds would look like in real time. Makes me appreciate their art so much more.




stream said:


> *theRESONANCE*
> Awesome work!
> About "it's not my car". I was in the same situation 1-2 years ago, you know, you have good opportunity to get extra experience to make your OWN car better. Just do it untill you like it.


Yeah i'm finally adopting the idea. After putting all this work in, i'll be sad when i have to part ways.

As for the 8w7 enclosure...I really _really_ can't remember how much that thing weighed. It was literally 2 pieces of mdf + 2 concrete tube..so it was very light. Again i wouldn't recommend reproducing the enclosure unless you were using it for testing or something. Not to say it didn't sound spectacular, but i'm sure its durability was nothing in comparison to a standard box.
If you wanted to use it as a more permanent enclosure, again i would suggest reinforcing it w/ fiberglass.



*Sunday January 30th, 2011*

So i'm shifting towards the 'amp rack' phase.. just trying to generate some realistic ways to hang the amps from the rear deck..
My original idea was to take an mdf sheet and suspend it from the rear deck, however i'm a little concerned of the weight.

My next approach is to fabricate some sort of metal shelving unit for the amps. I have a couple of friends who are great at working w/ metal; one of them asked me to do a little sketchup designing to get an idea of what i was talking about.

So here's my 1st attempt at the amp rack. It's fairly basic. With this rack, the amplifier will cradle at the bottom and secured to the plate. The top pieces are the braces which will be connected to my rear deck.




























The idea is great and all, but if i made individual racks I would need two.
*
Pros : * Allows more shallow mounting. *Probably only needs to be 3-3.5" high**
Cons:* More work. More material.

2nd idea was to make a double shelving rack. The Jl 300.2 sits on top. The DLS a3 would sit on the bottom.
*Dimensions of Amps*
Jl Audio : 13.4 x 9.25 x 2.36 
Dls a3 : 16.15 x 9.45 x 2.87


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

If i utilize the built in DLS a3 fan output... (powers on pending on temperature of amp)
I can add a fan on the bottom rack.


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## hugo23 (Apr 3, 2008)

Very nice built man, keep going with the good work. I'm collecting ideas for the built in my new car and your door pods gave me some inspiration 

Saludos desde México.


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

The fitment of that box is spot-on, great work! Looking foward to the amp-rack build!


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## yong_ly07 (Jan 12, 2009)

isnt the new toyota yaris interior like mostly plastic?


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## basshead (Sep 12, 2008)

Is it me or the T-Nuts are not installed on the right side of the ring???



theRESONANCE said:


>


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

basshead said:


> Is it me or the T-Nuts are not installed on the right side of the ring???


Did i mess up ? 
Are they supposed to be mounted from within the box and pulled through?

That would've made it a lot more difficult. 
haha, crap -- well i didn't run into any problems when securing the sub..


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

yeah, they're supposed to be inside the box so that when you tighten the bolts down you are sucking the sub and box together


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## cobb2819 (Jan 13, 2011)

the doors look amazing!!!


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

yong_ly07 said:


> isnt the new toyota yaris interior like mostly plastic?


like all the other cars...


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

100% spot on w/ fitting! No gaps whatsoever, makes me want to cry in joy. That extra step in the kittyhair process really paid off. At least i know all that itchiness was not in vain.

I've been passing along this very process for quite some years
when I figured it out or someone passed it on to me. Cant recall
which. Needless to say your picture tells the tell. GREAT going
mate! 

I really like your build and process! Inspiring


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

theRESONANCE said:


> Did i mess up ?
> Are they supposed to be mounted from within the box and pulled through?
> 
> That would've made it a lot more difficult.
> haha, crap -- well i didn't run into any problems when securing the sub..


I didn't want to be the first to say something here but, sense it was brought up....

I hate speaking the obvious but wanted to explain the reason not just for you but for anyone else following your GREAT thread!

If your looking at them the end that looks like it has a washer has a purpose. That bit keeps it from pulling through the material. It can be an easy fix. Just pries them up drill the holes so that the 'collar' (sorry I don't know the proper name of that section) fits within the hole. Use something like hot glue, Gorilla glue, you get the idea; put that along the edge or rim of the washer looking part. From the inside of the box push it into the hole. Simply use one of your screws with a large washer on it to pull the T nut up into and flush with the ring. BE SURE not to over tighten it or your going to squeeze your glue out. The strength is in the joint of the glue. Just tighten them enough so that the 'teeth' of the t nut grab the wood. Really, this isn't a bad fix or
a major screw up, so don't sweat it. The only issue comes in if the hole that is already in place is much larger than needed. Your looking for a snugish fit. If it is loose just go up one size OR you can use tooth picks to shim the hole. You'll want to dab those with glue as well. 

Another good tip is to use something like 'blue painters tape' on the inside once you have the t nuts in place before you tighten them up in the hole. This will keep your glue from all running out and loosing that mechanical bond that is important in this type of connection. Once its dry just pull out the tape.

One last thing. I've done something like this before and found out the hard way. During spirited listening it is a possibility that your brackets which hold down the box can 'rip'.... Sounds far fetched and I could not believe this when I discovered it with my enclosure. So, if were you I think I would add at minimum one more two would be even better. This issue is a given if one were to use radio back strap, I've fixed several customers installs that used those to secure the box.

_If I'm too late with this reply and missed your updated fix, I'm sorry_

All that being said, I still maintain All that being said, I still maintain this is a great thread. Being your first its clear you've done research and didn't just jump in and start slopping resin, kitty hair, and goo all over the place. Taken the time and attention to detail to make things the very best you possibly could.

CHEERS!


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Thanks fly!

I feel like such a tard installing them backwards... :tongue2:
I'm glad someone pointed that out. Learn from my mistake guys.
It's weird, b/c whenever i see pics, i always see people mounting in the t-nuts just like i did. I guess they're always pictures of the UNDERSIDE of the ring. Lol

Anyway... I guess i'll take a flathead to the suckers and hope for the best?...**** that is not going to be fun at all. Man i can already tell something bad is going to happen.

Also, good call on the extra brackets. You can never be too safe..Since i'm planning on ordering some metal for my amp rack, i'll order an extra flat bar and reinforce it.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

theRESONANCE said:


> Thanks fly!
> 
> I feel like such a tard installing them backwards... :tongue2:
> I'm glad someone pointed that out. Learn from my mistake guys.
> ...



No worries it happens! Every way I can come up with to get around pulling them up will work HOWEVER, you stand the chance of not being able to unscrew them. So, its best to pull them up. If you can just lift them a bit you can then perhaps grip them with pliers then kind of unscrew them. Like I was saying if the holes in your MDF get messed up you can go up one size or use shims and glue them in place. You should be ok once you glue them in place. 

The extra straps are well worth the effort. The first ones I personally tore up was a box with 2 Polk DB8's and only 400watts. The worst carnage I've seen was one I had no less than 8 straps with a box with 3 Soundstream SPL10's off a Continuum. In cases like this MORE simply cannot hurt. LOL.

Best part of all this is your not so far along that going back and fixing these things is relatively easy.


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## Sound Suggestions (Dec 5, 2010)

basshead said:


> Is it me or the T-Nuts are not installed on the right side of the ring???


Good eye! Subscribed need to know how it all comes together! Great work and good luck


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

Easier way to remove them would be to take a shallow socket (something like 1/2" or whatever will allow the collar of the T-Nut to fit inside) set it over the T-Nut, use a screw & washer long enough to reach down the square end of the socket into the T-Nut then as you tighten it down the T-Nut will pull out.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

BowDown said:


> Easier way to remove them would be to take a shallow socket (something like 1/2" or whatever will allow the collar of the T-Nut to fit inside) set it over the T-Nut, use a screw & washer long enough to reach down the square end of the socket into the T-Nut then as you tighten it down the T-Nut will pull out.


This would be a great idea if he has room for a socket to go over them. Good call. 

Awesome build OP. Very inspiring to see builds like this come together. Keep going your almost there now!


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## loudstreetrides (Nov 10, 2008)

dude you have mad skills, nice work keep it up!


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

we got the amp rack done lastweek... it came out killer.
i'll let him post up the pictures


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Yupp, finally finished the amp rack!
Bought some sheet metal and brought it over to fastrabbit's garage. :]










amps mounted on









mounted the distro block to the rack.










Some random foam i used in between amps and rack. (vibration)









I've actually finished mounting it in my car. When I get some time i'll go out and take a few pics.

There is one delay however :[. One of my RE xxx mids died. I've tried troubleshooting, but sadly its dead :|.. I've posted on the general subforum on this matter if anyone wants to read more into it.
Basically the continuity it sketchy, and resistances keep jumping (up to 130 ohms). Whenever i try putting power through it (such as AA battery), continuity breaks.

I've contacted RE audio.. and they told me that they dont' recone the speaker.

Anyway, i'm off to school... time to register for spring classes..
Oh, Chris-- link me to that HT subwoofer project!


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## Afronaut (Apr 27, 2010)

Nice work so far...keep up the work.


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

this was the one i built.. but thinking about the autotuba


Tuba 18


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Jesus, that auto tuba is sick

Read more reviews on the auto tuba on the forum they have there..
One guy hit 127 db with two autotubas.. 8" drivers.. with 28watts.
Thats just insane.. We should totally make one chris. Ha

Anyway, class got canceled today so pix on build will be up shortly.


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

So the rack is in. And all of my interior panels are in place. I was actually worried that i lost some tabs.

Before reinstalling the rear deck, i insulated it w/ leftover carpet.
The only thing that really needs fixing is the is the hanging wires behind the rack.. But not a big priority. 
The speaker/rcas pass the power wires a little, but so far i'm not getting any interference.
I should probably shorten the speaker wire from the dls a3 to the sub as well.

I've been considering on buying the Eclipse IPC-106 (Ipod interface) for my deck.. I've seen it around for 50 bucks. 
But I'm not sure if its even worth spending the money on, considering that the CD7200 allows USB connection.











Inside out


















Deck cover









Forgot i had a remote :]








Have a good amount of 3/4" mdf.. giving me ideas for my next project









Oh.. i almost forgot. Before my project can be complete.. I gotta remove the tacky TRD badge my yaris came with... even though it gives me +20 hp boost.









Looking back on the entire install.. I really can't believe it took me this long.
Anyway, time to sit back and enjoy.


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## BZinn1 (Sep 25, 2008)

Wow that is a great build.....cannot wait to get started on my build this spring.....08 Hb.

I am down in University Place by the Narrows Bridge...

Hope to see ya around...Brian


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

theRESONANCE said:


> Jesus, that auto tuba is sick
> 
> Read more reviews on the auto tuba on the forum they have there..
> One guy hit 127 db with two autotubas.. 8" drivers.. with 28watts.
> ...


 going to order the plans... just happen to have mcm sub laying around...
I let you know when i going to build it could always use a extra hand.


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

The rack looks killer. I made an order to online metals monday.. it showed up today.. they must no like ya.. going to start on my rack friday. if your around hit me up


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Oh sweet! I can't wait to see your system hooked up.

Yeah, i'm thinking on constructing a Tuba or two.. I got a few friends down at the UW frat houses who are really interested in getting a system.. Money making prospective perhaps?

Anyway, good that online metals had your stuff! i'm pretty sure it was just a mix up w/ my order..
If it isn't snowing, i'll probably be able to drive over on Friday. Have you listen to my solo speaker..


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## fastrabbit (Sep 16, 2010)

let me know.. have no plans..


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

Quick build update..
I've been listening to my system non stop.. 
I've got to say i'm fairly impressed...The output of my right midwoofer is just insane. My system never sounded this good before. It's night and day, ever since i added on a ring of speaker gasket from Parts express, the RE's just took off. My front stage is strong, and the bass is very responsive. It hits very low. It is quick and adds a moderate thump to your chest. (I can't imagine what two speakers would be like)

I would agree with others in saying that the RE xxx 6.5's are really geared towards bassheads.. It features great responses down low that really get to your gut when you want it; but as far as the 200-3500khz range. I'd say quality is quite average. (again, it might be b/c i only have one speaker...)

The SI mag is great, but a little on the quiet side; However, i already knew this was going to be the case.. and i'm not going to complain complain for a daily driver setup. 
'By quiet, i am comparing it to a ported JL 13w6v2..(not really fair)'
When i pull down my rear seats though, the si mag pulls through and envelopes the cabin. It's cool b/c i can swap between bass preference (;


A little update on the Front stage rebuild :

Last weekend, I bought a Massive Audio CK6 comp set from DAT. UPS has its delivery date on Friday.

This morning though, RE audio sent me an email! 



> On Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 1:38 PM, i am wu <[email protected]> (ME) wrote:
> 
> Hello and thank you for your quick relpy.
> 
> ...


I'm keeping my fingers crossed.. i've sent them an email.


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