# How To: Paint.....and not to suck at it (a montage?)



## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

I'd like this thread to be a compilation of thoughts and experiences about painting stuff. I don't know jack about paint and I'm not ashamed to admit it. I intend to share what I've learned through research, trial, and error. Hopefully some of you are a ton better at this than I am and can add something useful.

Those of you who know me know that I LOATH painting enclosures. That's quite a problem though when you don't use carpet to cover them. I've scraped by till now using a Whizz foam roller to do my painting. It's not bad and it leaves a kind of texture on the paint. But, sometimes you just can't use a roller on certain tight areas and sometimes you want the paint to be smooth. I have thought about bringing my enclosures to a real painter more than once but I always decided against it. You know what they say, "If you give a man a fish he will eat for a day. Teach him to fish and he will eat for a lifetime." 


I've finally decided that I want to learn how to fish. Enter HPLV spray paint gun. I've been looking at these for quite some time but I've been scared ****less of them. I have a 26gallon air compressor that will flow 6cfm at 40psi and 4cfm at 90psi. It a big tank but a relatively mediocre pump. Regardless, it gets the job done and can keep up with the gun that I chose. I got mine at Harbor Freight for $25.- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices











When using my roller brush I was using latex paint which is water based. Good stuff but it's extremely thick and not good for spraying. I discovered a product called Floetrol paint conditioner. It helps cut latex paint which makes it easier to spray and it also lengthens the drying time allowing the paint to flatten out a bit and get smoother. Good ****.









So I've been experimenting with different ratios of latex primer, water, and floetrol and I'm getting better. My first try was not so great. On my second try I mixed about 2.5oz of water, 1.5oz of floetrol, and 6oz of latex primer and that seemed to work well. I might even try a little less paint next time to get it to atomize a little better. 

My neighbor told me that oil based paints spray better and are easier to use so next project I might give them a shot....no pun intended.


Who else has painting experience/advice? I'd like to get good at this.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

well i have no advice since i use a "rattle can" when i have to spray paint, but i have some things you can practice on  LOL


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Use adhesive promoter.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

unpredictableacts said:


> Use adhesive promoter.


Ummm, can you elaborate on that?


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

My experience with spraying is limited to houses and with airless sprayers, but I've done some cabinetry and trim.

The only word of advice I have is to keep your spraytip dead-on-perpendicular to the surface, and it takes a little trial/error to get your mix right. No ********, you can even learn some technique from watching 'Pimp My Ride'.

Oil is far superior in every way to latex paint (aside from emissions). Cleanup is a *****, but the results more than make up for it - especially if you're doing speakerboxes which should have a durable finish. I've painted some cabinets with latex (brush/roller only) and it really sucks. I honestly couldn't imagine a speakerbox painted with latex. Seems like it would be a rubbery, gooey mess, but YMMV.

BTW adhesion promoter is exactly that, an adhesion promoting primer.



Good luck with your new toy.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

icehole said:


> My experience with spraying is limited to houses and with airless sprayers, but I've done some cabinetry and trim.
> 
> The only word of advice I have is to keep your spraytip dead-on-perpendicular to the surface, and it takes a little trial/error to get your mix right. No ********, you can even learn some technique from watching 'Pimp My Ride'.
> 
> ...


What type of oil based paint would you recommend? Is there really any difference between them or are different brands pretty much the same thing? I'm trying to get the smoothest, most protective finish I can. I get most of my materials at Lowes right now but I've been thinking about going to a dedicated paint store like Sherwin Williams or something. Worth it or not?


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## dewi1219 (Nov 16, 2006)

I would suggest oil-based Impervo from Benjamin Moore. It's not cheap, but it's made for things like trim and kitchen cabinets. It's super tough and resists damage. I painted a set of bookcases and window seats I built for my son's room over a year ago and they still look brand new with no scratches whatsoever. I didn't spray it, but I did mix the Floetrol for oil-base paint with it before rolling and brushing, and you can't tell it wasn't sprayed. It only comes in satin, I think, so if you want a different sheen it may not be right for you.
Impervo

Impervo also comes in water-based too, but I haven't tried it.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Looks like I can get that Impervo stuff at the Ace hardware that's down the street from me. Sounds like good stuff and it actually says "can be easily sprayed" in the product description. It comes in a high gloss too.

If I already have a latex primer on my stuff can I use an oil based paint over it?


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## AndyInOC (Jul 22, 2008)

I always make sure i strain all of my finishes into the cup as well to keep any chunks out of the gun. It wasn't mentioned, and maybe it is a step that everybody just knows to do, but in case you are not, it is a good idea


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

AndyInOC said:


> I always make sure i strain all of my finishes into the cup as well to keep any chunks out of the gun. It wasn't mentioned, and maybe it is a step that everybody just knows to do, but in case you are not, it is a good idea


Do you really catch stuff? What would cause there to be chunks in a paint can?


I went to Ace Hardware a little while ago and Dewi was right, that stuff is kinda pricey but I think it might be worth it. From what I can tell, oil based paints are second to none in terms of protective finishes. I also had a look at the Polyurethane clear protective finish that minwax offers and it's VERY strong. I might do more staining so I can use it for later projects.


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

Any high-quality oil based will be nice, and it's definitely worth the difference in price (over latex). I bought a can of the cheapest oil from Ben Moore and it was absolutely beautiful paint. I forget the line, but it wasn't BM. Also, IME Ben Moore latex wall paint covers second-to-none, so to anyone doing drastic color changes in their houses/apts check it out.

One other thing, IMO, if you're gonna do your finish coat in oil, you may as well prime it with oil. It'll still look nice, but why put your hard, plasticky finish over a coat of rubber?





ItalynStylion said:


> Do you really catch stuff? What would cause there to be chunks in a paint can?


Paint slag and other contaminates that may have gotten in anytime the can/bucket has been opened.


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## AndyInOC (Jul 22, 2008)

ItalynStylion said:


> Do you really catch stuff? What would cause there to be chunks in a paint can?


Yes, and latex paints are far worse than oil based in my experience as far as flecks of garbage that clog the gun. I don't know what it is or what causes it but the screen never comes away clean


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

I've done two coats so far on these babies withe gun. I'm starting to get the hang of it I think. It's coming fairly smooth too considering it's latex paint. Next time I'm likely to hit whatever project I'm working on with oil based paint. But, I do like the fact that latex paint can clean up with water. Here is a picture of what I'm doing right now with two coats. I did a third right after taking the picture. I've got a shed that's really rough inside I can paint in.


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## NOFATTYS (Jan 5, 2009)

those are purty


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