# Need help installing amp, sub, and line output converter to factory head unit!!



## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

I have a jl audio amp(a6450), a jl audio 13" sub in box, and an "axxess" line output converter that I am trying to install into my 2010 Hyundai Accent GLS with my factory head unit. I have searched everywhere and read through tutorial after tutorial, but none have been of much help to me. If anyone could help me with the process it'd be great as I have many questions. Below I will post pics of all of the supplies I was advised to buy and my specific electronics followed by the questions I have. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have been told many conflicting things by many different sources.


*Electronics:*

JL Audio A6450 Amplifier:





























JL Audio 13" Subwoofer:











Axxess Line Output Converter:







































*Supplies:*


Speaker Wire:





















Quick Disconnects:












Scotch Locks:












T-Taps:












*Questions:*

These are all of the supplies I have obtained besides wire strippers, pliers, etc. My question is, do I have all of the supplies needed to undergo this little project?

Also, is the speaker wire I have the only wire that I am going to need?

My amp has 6 channels & 6 RCA ports, so will this line output converter work for this project? Or do I need a line output converter that has 4 or 6 RCA ports?

Do I need any type of wiring harness to complete this project?

Will I need a wiring diagram for the factory head unit? If so, where can I find a correct one? I've tried looking many places & they all seem to be horribly off.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i might be able to get you started.

1. Are you going to power your factory speakers plus the subwoofer with the amp and LOC? If so you need enough speaker wire to feed each speaker from the amp. plus one set of RCA's to go from LOC to amp.

2. LOC that you have is probably fine...you might want to read the amp manual to be sure. If it were me i would look into something multi channel...maybe something from audio control. But read the amp manual and see what it says about input from 2 channels. Worst case is you could use Y cables to get 4 channel input.

3. you shouldn't need a wire harness or a wiring diagram. You just need to tap the front right and left speaker wires into the loc..and you can find those by just taking off the door panel and looking at them

4.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

After reading through many tutorials I was under the impression that all I needed to power was the sub w/ the amp & LOC. Do I need to power any speakers as well? I thought about getting one of those blue "scosche" LOC's from walmart which I heard are supposed to have more channels? I am not opposed to this idea at all. So all I need to do is tap the front speakers into the loc? Would that be in the "R" and "L" area of the LOC? Or would I need to join the speakers with all of the colored wires on the LOC? I was under the impression that all the colored wires on the LOC needed to be hooked into the back of the radio wires? Is this necessary?


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

I have gotten to the point where I have everything hooked up except the remote wires. I can't seem to find a correct wiring diagram for my 2010 Hyundai Accent GLS to determine which wire is the remote wire. I tried using a voltmeter or a multimeter, but none of the "blue wires" seemed to put out any voltage. Also, I have no idea in which direction the remote wires should be. As of right now my facotry head unit supposedly has a remote wire, the line output converter has a remote wire, and my amp has a remote wire input. Do I just fuse together the one from the head unit with the line output converter and send that to the amp?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Captain Fantasy said:


> I have gotten to the point where I have everything hooked up except the remote wires. I can't seem to find a correct wiring diagram for my 2010 Hyundai Accent GLS to determine which wire is the remote wire. I tried using a voltmeter or a multimeter, but none of the "blue wires" seemed to put out any voltage. Also, I have no idea in which direction the remote wires should be. As of right now my facotry head unit supposedly has a remote wire, the line output converter has a remote wire, and my amp has a remote wire input. Do I just fuse together the one from the head unit with the line output converter and send that to the amp?


i grabbed switched power in my 2013 elantra GT from the rear hatch area. There is a aux power outlet there with a switched wire. Thats what your LOC should need on the input side, and then the "remote out" wire from the LOC goes to the amp.

Your instructions sheet says that this loc can power the amp...or be connected directly to the amp. That can be a bit confusing.

You want to power the amp's +12 from the battery with an 8 gauge wire or 4 gauge if possible, and grounded to the chassis. 

Then you could grab +12v from the amp to power the loc.

But you cant then grab +12v from the HU, and then turn around and power the amp FROM the loc.

make sense?


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## Mike West (Nov 17, 2011)

The A6450 amplifier has an Input Voltage switch that will change the operating range of the inputs and their sensitivity adjustments. It can accept up to 8 volts RMS with the switch in the high position. This allows installation in most applications without the use of a line-output converter. Instead, we recommend either splicing a set of audio interconnect cables, or using a simple speaker wire to RCA adaptors. JL Audio offers these:

Car Audio - Connection Systems - Discontinued - Audio Connections - RCA to Speaker Wire

Any other manufacturer's adaptors like these should work fine as well.

Here's a link to the owner's manual for the amplifier:

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/A6450_MAN.pdf?1317781811


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

This might be a silly question, but why run RCA adapter or a LOC at all? The amp has a direct high level input just left of the RCA inputs.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

The reason I got a LOC is because my HU doesn't have RCA inputs. Are you guys saying w/ that cable I can just run my amp via rca's to my HU? Sorry. I don't I know a lot about car audio.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

Just left of the rca's on my amp is a switch, not an input. Sorry the pics are so crappy. I finally got everything all hooked up except the remote cable.. Just can't seem to get my amp to turn on after trying to hook the remote to wires behind my HU. It's very frustrating. I've gone through & checked all my wiring multiple times even w/ a voltmeter & the power I running fine to my amp, but it won't kick on. Hope it isn't blown. Plus I can't find a correct wiring diagram for my Hyundai accent. About ready to give up.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Captain Fantasy said:


> The reason I got a LOC is because my HU doesn't have RCA inputs. Are you guys saying w/ that cable I can just run my amp via rca's to my HU? Sorry. I don't I know a lot about car audio.



yes that is what the JL Audio engineer is saying

I have that function on my slash V2 amps. i never thought of it being on your amp as well...*doh*


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

My apologies! Somehow I looked up the *e*6450 rather than the *a*6450! 

Your solution, or that provided by Mike West should work just fine. Not sure why your remote wire is not functioning properly. You should be able to tap into any switched ignition source.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

When hooking up a line output converter do I need to actually cut the back of the head units colored speaker wires in half & connect the line output converter to them, or should I just strip the head units speaker wire and connect the LOC's colored wiring to the JUST stripped head units colored speaker wires? I have everything done except this and I finally got my amp to kick on after replacing the remote wire(even though the one I had was brand new) sorry for the stupid questions, I'm a chick and you have no idea how hard this has all been >.< Lol.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Some people will probably really come down on me for saying this, but you have a whole bag of T-Taps ready to go. I used T-Taps to an LOC for years in my wife's car with *zero* issues. In fact, the remote wire for her amp is still T-tapped. 

Are there better ways? Sure. Cut, strip, solder, heat shrink. 

T Tap Connector How to use a t tap connector. - YouTube


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Captain Fantasy said:


> When hooking up a line output converter do I need to actually cut the back of the head units colored speaker wires in half & connect the line output converter to them, or should I just strip the head units speaker wire and connect the LOC's colored wiring to the JUST stripped head units colored speaker wires? I have everything done except this and I finally got my amp to kick on after replacing the remote wire(even though the one I had was brand new) sorry for the stupid questions, I'm a chick and you have no idea how hard this has all been >.< Lol.


you need to cut the connection between HU and speaker wire someplace if you are powering the speakers with an external amp. If you are continuing to use the HU for power then you are fine with spicing the wire casing and tapping on to that. Solder and tape is best.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

I ended up using scotch locks. Simple and easy  if you guys can bear with me I just have two more easy questions. When I went to tap into the front 2 speakers(left and right) I noticed each speaker has 4 speaker wires attached(2 of each color) I'm assuming that means there's 2 pos & 2 neg. do I need to tap into all four in each speaker(total of 8) to run to my amp or just one pos & one neg wire from each speaker? 

My 2nd question is my amp is a 6 channel, so what channel does my sub plug into? What channel does my drivers side(I'm in America) speakers plug into? And what channel does my passenger side speaker plug into?

Thanks for all y'all's help and feedback! It's much appreciated!!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Captain Fantasy said:


> I ended up using scotch locks. Simple and easy  if you guys can bear with me I just have two more easy questions. When I went to tap into the front 2 speakers(left and right) I noticed each speaker has 4 speaker wires attached(2 of each color) I'm assuming that means there's 2 pos & 2 neg. do I need to tap into all four in each speaker(total of 8) to run to my amp or just one pos & one neg wire from each speaker?
> 
> My 2nd question is my amp is a 6 channel, so what channel does my sub plug into? What channel does my drivers side(I'm in America) speakers plug into? And what channel does my passenger side speaker plug into?
> 
> Thanks for all y'all's help and feedback! It's much appreciated!!


your speakers would not have 2 leads each for + and -.

sub would be bridged 5 and 6.

drivers side would be front right 1, front left 2, rear right 3, and rear left 4.

i think...


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

So even though there is 2 sets of wires coming out of each speaker(2 brown/2white) and (2 black/2 yellow) I only tap into one set of one of each color on each speaker? That's what I initially did, I just didn't get any sound from any speakers when I did that. Is it because I haven't bridged a channel on my amp for my sub? Or do I need to try to tap into the other set of speaker wires instead of the initial ones?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Captain Fantasy said:


> So even though there is 2 sets of wires coming out of each speaker(2 brown/2white) and (2 black/2 yellow) I only tap into one set of one of each color on each speaker? That's what I initially did, I just didn't get any sound from any speakers when I did that. Is it because I haven't bridged a channel on my amp for my sub? Or do I need to try to tap into the other set of speaker wires instead of the initial ones?


You have 2 brown and 2 white and 2 black and 2 white coming out of each speaker? can you show me a picture of this?


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

2 brown 2 white 2 black 2 yellow..











.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

That's just the passengers side. The other side has 2 brown & 2 white.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

thats some crazy stuff...how far can you trace the wires back? 

on my elantra, i have 2 pairs of speakers wires on each side...but one set goes to the woofer and one set goes to the tweeter.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

I haven't tried to trace them back yet because the way they have everything installed I'd be a total ***** to even attempt. I will if I have to. I knew I wasn't just crazy though!! I'm no car audio genius, but I knew something was strange!! I guess maybe I'll try to tap into both sets of wires before I start taking apart everything else in my car. Freaking Hyundai's!! This whole ordeal has been made way harder than it should have been!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

unplug that molex and see what 2 pins go to the two pins that then go to the speaker. ( since it looks like its 4 wires into the plug, but only 2 then go on to the speaker).


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## stampede88 (Oct 5, 2013)

try this site iv'e used them many times before

2010 Hyundai Accent Car Stereo Wiring Instructions

and did you check that oem speakers can handle what you are powering them with? Most factory speakers can't handle much.


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

Each colored set intertwined and feeds into a pin(2 pins total per speaker) could this anomaly be because of my cars "upgraded power bass" also, once I tapped into the front 2 speakers(one of each color on each speaker) I'm not getting audio through any of my speakers now. Do I need to tap into all 4 wires on each speaker & run them all to the amp?


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## Captain Fantasy (Oct 2, 2013)

Would this be an example of bi-wiring? Should I run 2 sets of wife do each speaker to the trunk, then intertwine them together to connect to the amp how they would normally connect?(1 channel per speaker)


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i dont have any idea why you have 4 wires running into that molex, but it looks like you only have 2 wires on the other side of the speaker molex going to the actual speaker itself....use those two wires as your tap in spot and see that happens.

there is also a pretty active elantra community here.

HD 2006-2010 Elantra - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum

or here

Car Audio, Video & Electronics - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum


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## arizamexica92 (4 mo ago)

Captain Fantasy said:


> the


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