# HELP!!! Professional install resulted in audible hiss (photos).



## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

I have a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L sedan with the factory amp bypassed, an Audio Control LC7i, an Alpine PDX-5 powering the door and rear speakers, and a MB Quart amp powering a subwoofer. I completely disabled the ANC module, but I still have a white noise hiss from the speakers. The noise starts with the amp gain at only about 3 of 10 and gets louder as I continue to turn it up. It is audible with the engine off, and when I start the engine it gets even louder. I looked at the install and it is VERY sloppy!

Can someone please take a look and tell me if I need to re-run the power and either RCA or speaker wires? I did not see the ground points but if you think it is that, I will take a look tomorrow. Thanks much!


*2 individual 4 ga power wires through firewall:*

[


















*1 power wire, 1 RCA set, and 1 remote wire ran inside of the passenger side center kick panel:*











*Multi-Channel amp underneath passenger seat. *Blue = Power, Black (thick) = Ground, Yellow = Remote, black (medium) = RCA, black (thinnest) = Speaker Outputs, bundle = input wires from LC7i LoD.



















*Audio Control LC7i mounted under passenger floorboard:*


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

You may want to say what type of car it is (assuming a Honda of some sort) and your pics aren't working. Try photobucket or something.


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

I've heard a lot about that generation PDX making noise...maybe that's the issue. Have you used that amp before in another vehicle?


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## 6spdcoupe (Jan 12, 2006)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

My biggest concern would be with the power wires not looking so safe. No grommets or protection and see some future potential for some tangling near the brake wire. 

Also .. CCA = bad idea. 

This was done at a shop ??


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



6spdcoupe said:


> My biggest concern would be with the power wires not looking so safe. No grommets or protection and see some future potential for some tangling near the brake wire.
> 
> Also .. CCA = bad idea.
> 
> This was done at a shop ??


Perhaps it was a brake shop...


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



WhereAmEye? said:


> I've heard a lot about that generation PDX making noise...maybe that's the issue. Have you used that amp before in another vehicle?


I had the PDX installed in another car so that is not the issue.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Same headunit as before?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



6spdcoupe said:


> My biggest concern would be with the power wires not looking so safe. No grommets or protection and see some future potential for some tangling near the brake wire.
> 
> Also .. CCA = bad idea.
> 
> This was done at a shop ??


1 set is CCA, but the other is OFC. I bought the first CCA kit online when I was only planning to use the PDX and did not know better. Since I was deployed to Afghanistan I had the wife take the car to Audio One in Newport News,VA to do the install. When she heard the weak sub output, I got a MB Quart 1000.1 amp and an Alpine SWS-15D4. When I got home I looked and am not happy with how sloppy and shotty it was done. No grommets, dangling wires, power wires along speaker and RCA, etc. She did not know what to look for after install. If I was home I would have done it myself.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



REGULARCAB said:


> Same headunit as before?


The only thing I brought from my old truck was the amp. Everything else is new. The head unit is stock but connects to the Audio Control LC7i before the amps. The photos only shows the multi-channel amp and power line run since the sub would not play the frequency of the hiss. I will still check out the wiring later since it is probably just as ****ty.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Any idea where they got the signal wire for the LC7? Pre amp or post amp?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Niebur3 said:


> Any idea where they got the signal wire for the LC7? Pre amp or post amp?


They said that they bypassed the stock amp. I did not explore far enough to see if that is true or not.


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## THEDUKE (Aug 25, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Why have a 5 Channel amp and use a separate amp for the sub?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



THEDUKE said:


> Why have a 5 Channel amp and use a separate amp for the sub?


Originally I was planning to use the 300w sub channel but it was not enough bass for my liking. I bought a mono amp but kept using the Alpine PDX-5 since it was from the vehicle I traded-in.


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Just to add in...do you know where the amp is grounded at? The alpine that is.


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## caraudioworld (Sep 18, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

In one of the recent build logs of SIS they keep the OEM HU, but used the line driver from Arc Audio to prevent this kind of issues and be able to get a clear signal from the HU, I dont know exactly if your L7 is equivalent. Actually I am having a similar issue but with an 8th gen and I am looking to get the line driver to try to solve it.


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## ATOMICTECH62 (Jan 24, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

I have to ask a dumb question.
If the factory amp is bypassed why is the LC7i in the signal chain?It seems to me that if its line level going in to the LC7i then the signal would be so weak the LC7i would not be able to boost it considering its made to reduce the output voltage of a factory amp.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



WhereAmEye? said:


> Just to add in...do you know where the amp is grounded at? The alpine that is.


I don't know but I will check tomorrow.


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## GLN305 (Nov 2, 2007)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> I don't know but I will check tomorrow.


Williamsburg, VA? If so PM me


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

I am not sure if the LC7i accepts balanced inputs (Honda/Acura use balanced differential from the head unit), so that could be the problem. However, the first thing I would try is to remove the cover of the LC7i and try one of the other 3 Ground Isolation settings inside. I would think one of these settings would fix your problem. If it doesn't, then the LC7i may not accept balanced inputs and I would change it to an ARC SRI instead (or something else that states it accepts balanced inputs). 

However, if you get this problem fixed, please have someone put rubber grommets on the power wires before you and/or your car die from a fire.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Niebur3 said:


> However, the first thing I would try is to remove the cover of the LC7i and try one of the other 3 Ground Isolation settings inside.


Looks like I will have to take apart the car to fiddle with this.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> Looks like I will have to take apart the car to fiddle with this.


No, just pull the kick panel and side piece that connects to the kick panel. You should be able to pull the carpet up and get to it. You may have to remove the seat bolts to rock the seat back. Should take you no time.

Looking at that pic of the amp again, you may want to see if they ran new speaker wire throughout or just tapped into the factory wiring going to the speakers. Almost looks as if they did because the wire in the pic looks super tiny.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Niebur3 said:


> However, if you get this problem fixed, please have someone put rubber grommets on the power wires before you and/or your car die from a fire.


How do I do this? Do I need to remove the power wire first or does it slip on over the wire? Do you have a link to a website to buy the gromets? 

While I am at it, should I just run a single 0/1 gauge into the cabin and use a power distribution block, or is this 2 wire setup ok?


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> How do I do this? Do I need to remove the power wire first or does it slip on over the wire? Do you have a link to a website to buy the gromets?
> 
> While I am at it, should I just run a single 0/1 gauge into the cabin and use a power distribution block, or is this 2 wire setup ok?


I would personally use 1 4awg to a distribution block. Unless you are planning to add more power, you don't need any more than that. 

And yes, you will have to pull the power wire (probably from the engine bay from inside the drivers side firewall where it comes through. Add the grommet (napa, autozone) and push it back through into the engine bay and reconnect to the fuse holder (hopefully there is one before the battery).

I would take it back to the shop and tell them to do it right this time at no charge!


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Niebur3 said:


> I would personally use 1 4awg to a distribution block. Unless you are planning to add more power, you don't need any more than that.
> 
> And yes, you will have to pull the power wire (probably from the engine bay from inside the drivers side firewall where it comes through. Add the grommet (napa, autozone) and push it back through into the engine bay and reconnect to the fuse holder (hopefully there is one before the battery).


I will get the gromets and fix the holes.

My Alpine amp wants a 4 gauge and the MB Quart recommended a 4 gauge for a 2ohm load (0 gauge at 1ohm). I would need a single 0/1 to split out to two 4 gauge lines.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> I will get the gromets and fix the holes.
> 
> My Alpine amp wants a 4 gauge and the MB Quart recommended a 4 gauge for a 2ohm load (0 gauge at 1ohm). I would need a single 0/1 to split out to two 4 gauge lines.


Overkill works, but based on the Alpine being under the seat, the run isn't as long and you would be fine. You Alpine isn't giving you anywhere close to rated power on mids/highs and no sub connected. Music is dynamic. You are probably getting 50-75/channel from that amp under normal listening (an educated guess, if they bridged it....less if they didn't). Which MBQuart amp do you have? Did they bridge the Alpine to your front components? Are you active or using a passive crossover? I still think using the 1 4awg OFC would work fine.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Niebur3 said:


> Your Alpine isn't giving you anywhere close to rated power on mids/highs and no sub connected. You are probably getting 50-75/channel from that amp under normal listening (an educated guess, if they bridged it....less if they didn't).


The birth sheet included with the amp said it tested to 107w per channel. The installer only turned up the gain to about 4 of 10 to reduce the white noise.



Niebur3 said:


> Which MBQuart amp do you have? Did they bridge the Alpine to your front components? Are you active or using a passive crossover? I still think using the 1 4awg OFC would work fine.


I have the MB Quart RA1000.1. The sub is 4ohm DVC wired parallel to get a 2ohm load. The sub is 500w RMS and the amp at 2ohm outputs 750w (before losses).
MB Quart RA1000.1 1000W 1-Chan Monoblock Referece Series Amp


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

I've almost always had a noise floor issue with the early PDX amps. Not horrible, but it was present if you listened carefully. I've ALWAYS had noise problems with Audiocontrol products...and I've done everything to solve it (moving grounds, common grounds, various grounding jumper settings, etc.). 

I hope you can get things sorted out.

That is not a "professional" install. smh.
People like that are the ones that give the rest of us a bad name.

Good luck!

Jay


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## FAJDK (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Dumb question but did you disable both ANC mics. I too have a 13 accord and the head unit will not allow complete turn off of ANC. I had to unplug both front and rear ANC mics.


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



FAJDK said:


> Dumb question but did you disable both ANC mics. I too have a 13 accord and the head unit will not allow complete turn off of ANC. I had to unplug both front and rear ANC mics.



On the 9th gens most people have found it easier and been having better success by unplugging the ANC module located in the center console.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

from what you are describing it sounds like really high floor noise...and i have a few observations:

we just did a very similar car and honestly it had less hiss than most oem system i have worked with: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...2013-accord-sedan-illusion-arc-alpine-rf.html

1. i dont think its an amp issue, nor an ANC issue if the main anc module is unplugged in the center channel. i know some amps are more noisy, but what he is describe exceeds that imo

2. i am too confused by why a lc7i is used. if they indeed bypassed the amp, the signal then is a very low level but balanced signal. a lc7i is really designed iirc to take a post stock amp (or oem headunit) high level signal and reduce it to a line level output. if what i recall is true and they indeed tapped the signal BEFORE the stock amp, then the lc7i is only serving to REDUCE the signal even further...so you may be ending up with a a quarter volt of signal.

3. if the above is true, what they may have done is jacked the gains on the lc7i all the way up to get some kind of signal out of it, this would result in probably ungodly amounts of hiss.

4. i would take the passenger side kick panel off, and take several high res flash pics of the signal tapping at the amp, this will help us figure out if they indeed tapped the correct signal before the stock amp....because:

5. if they did tap it correctly, then instead of a lc7i, you need a line driver, something like the arc ALDs i used on the above build log. to BOOST the signal up instead of trimming it down.

6. if they didnt actually tap before and instead tapped post amp (a more logical usage of the lc7i) then i would say you need to get rid of the lc7i and get line drivers and retap signal.

but to me, the focus is at the stock amp and how they tapped it. see if you can get some pics and report back.

good luck


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



Salami said:


> On the 9th gens most people have found it easier and been having better success by unplugging the ANC module located in the center console.


That is what I did. I removed the center tray. Then I disconnected (temporarily) the hands free module. Then I reached in and unplugged the ANC completely. This is MUCH easier versus cutting the microphones. Plus you can plug it back in if you needed warranty work.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



simplicityinsound said:


> 1. i dont think its an amp issue, nor an ANC issue if the main anc module is unplugged in the center channel. i know some amps are more noisy, but what he is describe exceeds that imo


Audio One in Newport News did it wrong (twice), so I unplugged the ANC module behind the front center console.



simplicityinsound said:


> 2. i am too confused by why a lc7i is used. if they indeed bypassed the amp, the signal then is a very low level but balanced signal. a lc7i is really designed iirc to take a post stock amp (or oem headunit) high level signal and reduce it to a line level output. if what i recall is true and they indeed tapped the signal BEFORE the stock amp, then the lc7i is only serving to REDUCE the signal even further...so you may be ending up with a a quarter volt of signal.


The stock head unit had only speaker level outputs. The Alpine PDX-5 only accepted RCA inputs. I used the LC7i to convert the wiring. It also has the Accu Bass to help restore the factory head unit reducing the bass output when you turn the volume above about 13 of 40.



simplicityinsound said:


> 3. if the above is true, what they may have done is jacked the gains on the lc7i all the way up to get some kind of signal out of it, this would result in probably ungodly amounts of hiss.


Someone else suggested checking the LC7i and the way it was configured. That will be one of my first steps.



simplicityinsound said:


> 4. i would take the passenger side kick panel off, and take several high res flash pics of the signal tapping at the amp, this will help us figure out if they indeed tapped the correct signal before the stock amp....because:


I will check this as well.



simplicityinsound said:


> 5. if they did tap it correctly, then instead of a lc7i, you need a line driver, something like the arc ALDs i used on the above build log. to BOOST the signal up instead of trimming it down.


I will explore this after messing with the LC7i and redoing the wiring.



simplicityinsound said:


> 6. if they didnt actually tap before and instead tapped post amp (a more logical usage of the lc7i) then i would say you need to get rid of the lc7i and get line drivers and retap signal.


Not sure what you mean. Please elaborate. The LC7i was used to convert the speaker wires to RCA, and to restore the bass with volume.



simplicityinsound said:


> but to me, the focus is at the stock amp and how they tapped it. see if you can get some pics and report back.


I will do this tomorrow (or very soon) and report back.



simplicityinsound said:


> good luck


THANKS MUCH for the well wishes and the plethora of information! I will investigate all of this and get back to you all soon.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

How can u have a stock amp AND speaker level outputs from the headunit before the stock amp? A bit confused by what u mean? It should be line level if u have a stock amp

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



simplicityinsound said:


> How can u have a stock amp AND speaker level outputs from the headunit before the stock amp? A bit confused by what u mean? It should be line level if u have a stock amp
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


The factory head unit has a 160w amplifier built in for the front and rear speakers. On the EX-L and higher models there is a seperate subwoofer amplifier behind the glovebox. 

I need to rip it apart to see what they did and what is back there. I have a long project ahead of me.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JayinMI said:


> I've almost always had a noise floor issue with the early PDX amps. Not horrible, but it was present if you listened carefully. I've ALWAYS had noise problems with Audiocontrol products...and I've done everything to solve it (moving grounds, common grounds, various grounding jumper settings, etc.).
> 
> I hope you can get things sorted out.
> 
> ...


I have 2 of the same car. For the other car we used Kicker amps and it has the same audible hiss. The wiring is just as ****ty!!! For that one you have to turn the amp gain down to under 2 of 10 to not get the hiss.

Second car multi-channel amp:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> The factory head unit has a 160w amplifier built in for the front and rear speakers. On the EX-L and higher models there is a seperate subwoofer amplifier behind the glovebox.
> 
> I need to rip it apart to see what they did and what is back there. I have a long project ahead of me.


okay, so does your car have a stock amp or not?

the one we worked on and a few others we referenced, its pretty much similar to most late model honda oem premium system, full line level balanced out of the headunit into an amp that powers everything in the car.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Hmm. Was there really a shop involved? 

I would be trying to find the source of the signal first and foremost. If the signal was taken after the stock amp which I'm guessing it was, you will never get rid of the hiss unless you turn the gain down to stock output levels. I battled that for 2 years before going pre-amp.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



BuickGN said:


> Hmm. Was there really a shop involved?


I used Audio One in Newport News.
Audio One - Audio One Locations


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## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

If this was an install by a shop, why are you turning up the gain? Try less gain, and figure out what your looking for from the system. If it's an audio control piece they typically have input and out gains, very easy to get hiss. You should be careful because setting a gain structure is a fine balance of loudness versus distortion. Easy to clip input signal, which tweeters hate  but too much gain either at processor and/or amp , and yes you will get hiss. If you want system louder with less volume then get a bigger amp. Good luck.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



jpeezy said:


> but too much gain either at processor and/or amp , and yes you will get hiss. If you want system louder with less volume then get a bigger amp. Good luck.


I understand clipping and max vs peak, but shouldn't you be able to turn the amp gain above 3/10 without hissing? I will check the Audio Control tomorrow to see how it is set.


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



6spdcoupe said:


> My biggest concern would be with the power wires not looking so safe. No grommets or protection and see some future potential for some tangling near the brake wire.
> 
> Also .. CCA = bad idea.
> 
> This was done at a shop ??


I agree with the power wire needs a grommet, but why is CCA a bad idea? He would not need OFC just for the small amps he is running.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Wonder if this is part of the issue?!?!?!?!


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## GLN305 (Nov 2, 2007)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> Wonder if this is part of the issue?!?!?!?!


My God, what did they do.

Audio One, eh? Ouch


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*

Um... get your money back. No grommets? WTF?

Probably going to repeat what was said - honestly didn't read the thread all the way (at work). Became extremely made at the no grommets and here I am in a rage... 

The output from the Honda HU is low level balanced before the amp. LC7i is not appropriate for this tap-in - you need a (balanced) line driver. LC7i is pretty much a fancy line output converter (high to low). My first guess is that's noise source #1. Then you want to considering use either a DSP to handle the balanced signal or amplifiers that can accept balanced signal directly. Not all amps will deal with a balanced signal.

We have tapped behind the stock amplifier with success if using a high-grade LOC. If you must keep the LC7i, you can try that - the LC7i is a good unit if used for its intended purpose. Not always a fan of LOCs because of the noise or signal quality fight you sometimes have to deal with but I've never had an issue with an LC7i as a LOC so far.

I think I remember hearing someone on a Honda forum makes a harness that prevents you from having to cut/shave and solder into OEM wiring. No idea what the user's name is so you'd have to search and I could be confusing Honda with another brand of car... but maybe something is out there like that and that'd be nice and convenient. 

As for the wiring of the LC7i:
(1) Why is there a non-connecte set of RCAs?
(2) Those are the bottom of the barel Stinger RCAs - not necessarily a bad thing, I use them all the time, but it just seems funny that Stinger 4000s were not used, at least.
(3) WTF is that yellow wire and why is it wrapped around those gray wires?
(4) Why is the yellow wire tapped into the white wire with electrical tape (was it soldered, at least... it better be, I see no crimp connector).
(5) Did they go under the car and silicon the screw holes they decided to make? Also, normally I try to avoid screwing anything directly into the car's metal (make a board!).
(6) They couldn't have cut the white/gray speaker wires on the 9-wire a little so they were straight in-line with the green/purple wires? Really? Not a lot of work and allows you to zip tie or tape the wires nice and tight and clean. 
(7) Is there a zip tie anywhere? Certainly none I could see for the power wire run.
(8) Again... why the crap is that yellow wire wrapped around the gray wire!!! Haha.


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## The Performer (Aug 12, 2012)

Haha, someone intentionally made an inductor around your signal cable. Apparently someone pissed the installer off, because that is totally payback for something. I bet it you wanted to change the frequency of your engine whine you could add more wraps of that yellow wire around the rca! 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



sirbOOm said:


> I think I remember hearing someone on a Honda forum makes a harness that prevents you from having to cut/shave and solder into OEM wiring. No idea what the user's name is so you'd have to search and I could be confusing Honda with another brand of car... but maybe something is out there like that and that'd be nice and convenient.


It was/is called a mercman harness and mercman is the username of the person on 8thCivic, Acurazine, etc. I used one for a couple years with no issues. Plug and play.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

The Performer said:


> Haha, someone intentionally made an inductor around your signal cable. Apparently someone pissed the installer off, because that is totally payback for something. I bet it you wanted to change the frequency of your engine whine you could add more wraps of that yellow wire around the rca!
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


The white and yellow wires ate the remote wires. Not sue why they tied it like that... Do I just untie it to improve the sound?


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

You should rewire the entire thing, securing the wires running the same path together. That's not the worst birds nest I've ever seen, but that's not cool in my book.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

sirbOOm said:


> You should rewire the entire thing, securing the wires running the same path together. That's not the worst birds nest I've ever seen, but that's not cool in my book.


I am really temped, but the weather is not cooperating!


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## ATOMICTECH62 (Jan 24, 2009)

Whats the deal with the red RCA loose at the amp?And,is it touching the case of the amp?
These guys are real pro's.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

The lose RCA wires were from the first install when I planned to use the PDX-5 as a 5 channel amp. The bass was not enough so I had them install a mono sub amp. Guess they did not undo the install.

This is a before ("professional" install) and after (my clean-up):

BEFORE:









AFTER:


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JayinMI said:


> I've almost always had a noise floor issue with the early PDX amps. Not horrible, but it was present if you listened carefully. I've ALWAYS had noise problems with Audiocontrol products...and I've done everything to solve it (moving grounds, common grounds, various grounding jumper settings, etc.).
> 
> I hope you can get things sorted out.
> 
> ...


See I have had neither problems with PDX amps or Audio Control units. And I have used both many of time.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



bigaudiofanatic said:


> See I have had neither problems with PDX amps or Audio Control units. And I have used both many of time.


Well what do u recommend that I check for as the noise source?

Also, how should I properly ground the amp? Their ground is horrible!


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## The Performer (Aug 12, 2012)

No no no! Get that yellow wire off the rca! Make the best ground you can possibly get and then come back with results. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I'm not trying to be mean, but I think we need to have a moment of silence for this install. At this point, it's time to take it back to the beginning, and do one step at a time install.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> I understand clipping and max vs peak, but shouldn't you be able to turn the amp gain above 3/10 without hissing? I will check the Audio Control tomorrow to see how it is set.


my audio control EQX is set up so the gain on my JL300/4 V2 is just barely turned up a scosche.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



GLN305 said:


> My God, what did they do.
> 
> Audio One, eh? Ouch


kind of makes it clear as to how they forgot to use grommets at the firewall

Yelp.com is your friend here...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



sirbOOm said:


> (8) Again... why the crap is that yellow wire wrapped around the gray wire!!! Haha.


that yellow wire is a remote out....it appears to be running ramshackle thought the entire install turning things on. as to why is wrapped about that RCA cable...could there be a remote wire attached to the RCA cable that is feeding a downstream amp? And he ran out of electrical tape and decided to use a boy scout knot to hold it all in place?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Coppertone said:


> I'm not trying to be mean, but I think we need to have a moment of silence for this install. At this point, it's time to take it back to the beginning, and do one step at a time install.


this is my favorite thread in quite some time...mostly because the install is so bad, but the OP seems like a genuinely great guy, who deserves one of you guys to go over to his house and make it right

With all the house renovation fix it shows on TV these days..i would love to see something like that in the car audio world.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

The Performer said:


> No no no! Get that yellow wire off the rca! Make the best ground you can possibly get and then come back with results.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Can I use she seat bolt as a ground? If not, what is the best way to make a ground?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

Coppertone said:


> I'm not trying to be mean, but I think we need to have a moment of silence for this install. At this point, it's time to take it back to the beginning, and do one step at a time install.


I am torn between taking it back for a 4th time or just doing it myself. Sucks to have paid all that money for nothing (besides as a life lesson).

Moment of silence please................................................................ Thank you.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



miniSQ said:


> kind of makes it clear as to how they forgot to use grommets at the firewall
> 
> Yelp.com is your friend here...


I think if nothing else I will take it back for the grommets.

And I plan to blast on Yelp, in addition to the two forums I use and Facebook.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



miniSQ said:


> that yellow wire is a remote out....it appears to be running ramshackle thought the entire install turning things on. as to why is wrapped about that RCA cable...could there be a remote wire attached to the RCA cable that is feeding a downstream amp? And he ran out of electrical tape and decided to use a boy scout knot to hold it all in place?


For what reason would they need to secure 1 wire like that? They sure didn't secure any other damn wire!


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> this is my favorite thread in quite some time...mostly because the install is so bad, but the OP seems like a genuinely great guy, who deserves one of you guys to go over to his house and make it right
> 
> With all the house renovation fix it shows on TV these days..i would love to see something like that in the car audio world.


Thanks for making me laugh. That really brightened my night! Worst part was, my wife had the installs done while I was in Afghanistan. Thanks for taking advantage of a spouse when the husband is overseas!

Oh, and I would love to watch that show as well. Have you seen the fix that Steve Meade did for a guy who laid thousands for the install that used paint buckets for sub boxes and other crazy ****? Search YouTube for worst sound system install. It is priceless!


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> this is my favorite thread in quite some time...mostly because the install is so bad, but the OP seems like a genuinely great guy, who deserves one of you guys to go over to his house and make it right.


I will bring the beer and pizza to anyone who lives in Hampton Roads, has a garage, proper tools, some audio skills, and is willing to help me redo this right.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

As yhe photos show, I cleaned up the install a bit. I also improved the multi channel amp ground (seat post bolt), which caused the noise to diminish by maybe 1/4. It is still noticable with any gain level near even half way.

I talked to the installer and he did completly bypass the factory amp and hooked the head unit wires (not RCA) into the LC7i inputs. I do not know if that may be the issue...

Also, he had the remote wire running from the LC7i "remote out" and split from there to both amps. I don't know if that would cause amy noise.

Someone also mentioned that the RCA cables were the lowest level that Stinger makes and magbe I should upgrade.

I still need to redo the mono subwoofer amp ground. Would a bad ground on that amp introduce a hiss into the door speakers?

That is a lot of info, but maybe it will help ya'll brainstorm.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

Just pointing out with a device like the LC7 your gain at the amp will probably be 1 or less. LC units have a built in line driver to run the RCA's if your gain on the LC is set properly the gain on your amp should stay around 0 to 1. A gain is not a volume booster it is a sensitivity booster the higher it goes up the more background noise is audible. If there is a small hiss the hiss will only become louder on the gain side of things. I run the bit ten which does essentially the same thing as the LC7 when it comes to line driving and my amps are on 0 gain. If you can get your hands on a DD1 from SMD or even better an O-Scope it will probably be a big help. I can't say this will fix it but you never know.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

with the gains set below the level where you get audible hiss..is the HU volume control able to be turned up all the way and you still do not have enough volume?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

Deathjunior said:


> Just pointing out with a device like the LC7 your gain at the amp will probably be 1 or less. LC units have a built in line driver to run the RCA's if your gain on the LC is set properly the gain on your amp should stay around 0 to 1. A gain is not a volume booster it is a sensitivity booster the higher it goes up the more background noise is audible. If there is a small hiss the hiss will only become louder on the gain side of things. I run the bit ten which does essentially the same thing as the LC7 when it comes to line driving and my amps are on 0 gain. If you can get your hands on a DD1 from SMD or even better an O-Scope it will probably be a big help. I can't say this will fix it but you never know.


I knew it wad not a volume booster, but I did not think to set the amp that low. The audio shop had the LC7i set around 70% and the amps around 60%. That caused a hiss.

Aftet I rewired, I tested for clippping using the LC7i which has a built in clipping indicator (but you need to first set the head unit to the clipping point which I do not know). I set the amp gains to 0, turned the head unit to 35 of 40, and adjusted the LC7i gain to the clipping point which was around 80% for each channel.

If anyone in Hampton Roads has an oscillioscope or the SMD device, I would greatly appreciate help seeing where my head unit clipps. That will help me set the LC7i correctly.



miniSQ said:


> with the gains set below the level where you get audible hiss..is the HU volume control able to be turned up all the way and you still do not have enough volume?


At the audio shop's settings and at my settings, I played the head unit at between 13 (normal listening) to maybe 20 (showing off and really loud) out of a max of 40. Should I set it the amp gains so that I need to turn the head unit volume to just before the clipping point to get what I consider the loudest I would ever want to play it? This would allow me to turn the amp gains down low enough to remove quite a bit (probably most) of the hiss.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> At the audio shop's settings and at my settings, I played the head unit at between 13 (normal listening) to maybe 20 (showing off and really loud) out of a max of 40. Should I set it the amp gains so that I need to turn the head unit volume to just before the clipping point to get what I consider the loudest I would ever want to play it? This would allow me to turn the amp gains down low enough to remove quite a bit (probably most) of the hiss.


If your HU goes to 40...then normal to loud listening level should be between 27-30.....and showing off should be no higher than say 35.

you don't need an oscilloscope yet. you need a clearer understanding of what the knobs on your stereo are for.

there are a bazillion you tube videos on setting gain, including many using audio control products. I suggest you start with the gains set to the minimum on your amps...and search out how to set the AC piece up first...its designed to do it in abotu 30 seconds.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> If your HU goes to 40...then normal to loud listening level should be between 27-30.....and showing off should be no higher than say 35.
> 
> you don't need an oscilloscope yet. you need a clearer understanding of what the knobs on your stereo are for.
> 
> there are a bazillion you tube videos on setting gain, including many using audio control products. I suggest you start with the gains set to the minimum on your amps...and search out how to set the AC piece up first...its designed to do it in abotu 30 seconds.


I guess the professional needs a lesson too (this among MANY others, like cleaning up). Thank you for the hard advice. The LC7i instructions said to turn the amp gains down to 0, and the head unit to its clipping point. Then you start adjusting the gains on the LC7i until the "maximum" light blinks occasionally.

I set the head unit to 35 (arbitrary possible clipping point), adjusted the LC7i gains to the maximum using the clipping light, and then I also turned up the amp gains to about 60% (arbitrary level). I will go do this again and NOT adjust the amp gains after setting the LC7i gains.

I will also start listening to the radio at 28-30 and showing off at 35ish.

Thank you for the corrections! I really do appreciate it.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> I guess the professional needs a lesson too (this among MANY others, like cleaning up). Thank you for the hard advice. The LC7i instructions said to turn the amp gains down to 0, and the head unit to its clipping point. Then you start adjusting the gains on the LC7i until the "maximum" light blinks occasionally.
> 
> I set the head unit to 35 (arbitrary possible clipping point), adjusted the LC7i gains to the maximum using the clipping light, and then I also turned up the amp gains to about 60% (arbitrary level). I will go do this again and NOT adjust the amp gains after setting the LC7i gains.
> 
> ...


watch this:

AudioControl level matching - YouTube

and remember that its ok for your amp gains to be set to zero.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> watch this:
> 
> AudioControl level matching - YouTube
> 
> and remember that its ok for your amp gains to be set to zero.


So now I feel kinda like a tool... i have never used a product like Audio Control before, so I did not know that the aml could be at 0.

At the end of the video he did say that you can make a slight adjustment at the amp for some more power. I assume that means maybe turning the amp to 10% or so, not up to 60% like I had, right??

I will go make the adjustments in a few minutes and come back to let you know how it sounds. Thanks much!!!


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

My mono MB Quart amp has a Level knob and a Bass EQ knob (0db to 10db). Should I keep the Level at 0 and then turn up the Bass EQ knob for better bass?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> So now I feel kinda like a tool... i have never used a product like Audio Control before, so I did not know that the aml could be at 0.
> 
> At the end of the video he did say that you can make a slight adjustment at the amp for some more power. I assume that means maybe turning the amp to 10% or so, not up to 60% like I had, right??
> 
> I will go make the adjustments in a few minutes and come back to let you know how it sounds. Thanks much!!!


you are not a "tool"...LOL...i think gain setting is possible the easiest, but also the least intuitive, and most over thought process in car audio.

Once you have the Audio control unit set correctly and the amp gains at zero...then you can go in one of two directions.

listen to your music with the HU at the level that you used to set up the AC piece and determine it if is loud enough for you...if not...then raise the level of the gains ( keeping the HU in the same place ) until it is loud enough. At that point did you notice any deterioration in sound? If not and all is well then call it done...and move on to cleaning up all that wiring.

But if this is still not leaving you satisfied and you are a bit OCD about things like sine waves and signal clipping...then go back to google and search for "JL audio gain setting DMM"....they have lots of simple tutorials that seem to make sense.

But..i think you should be happy with just using your ears for now.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> My mono MB Quart amp has a Level knob and a Bass EQ knob (0db to 10db). Should I keep the Level at 0 and then turn up the Bass EQ knob for better bass?


try and get your system set up so it sounds best with it at zero. Turning that knob is usually a bandaid best left as a last resort.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> AFTER:


Because i am a little bored today and waiting for the coffee to kick in so i can go out and work on my own car on this warm vermont morning...i have been staring at this picture for a few minutes.

couple things are making me nervous....

1. your power wire is laying on bare metal in the trunk...this is not safe...if it rubs anyplace and the wire contacts the chassis bad things can happen. This leads me to ask you to also check your engine compartment and snal a picture of the way it is attached and hopefully fused at the battery.

2. It appears that the ground wire from the Lc7 runs under the Lc7??? Is that correct? Or is it an optical illusion? If it does...please change that. Also where is the amp grounded? you may want to try and run the ground wire of the the LV7 into the ground output of the amp in the same way the power is being done. That may affect some of this noise you are hearing.

3. For my own and others OCD...please tell us again why the remote out wire is wrapped around those two missmatched RCA cable?


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

miniSQ said:


> 3. For my own and others OCD...please tell us again why the remote out wire is wrapped around those two missmatched RCA cable?



That's not the remote wire, its a power wire. Look where its connected at the amp, its constant 12v. Don't know why he has it there then going with the RCA's. Then again I did not read the first pages of this thread.

***Correction, after looking at a blow up of the pic...miniSQ is correct. Its a remote, if the OP would of did a couple of more winds around those RCA's am pretty sure he will get noise, lol. 


Nothing wrong with running a small remote wire with the RCA's, its very low current so it wont introduce noise to the RCA's.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> try and get your system set up so it sounds best with it at zero. Turning that knob is usually a bandaid best left as a last resort.


That is what I will do. Thanks for the stern advice.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

TrickyRicky said:


> That's not the remote wire, its a power wire. Look where its connected at the amp, its constant 12v. Don't know why he has it there then going with the RCA's. Then again I did not read the first pages of this thread.
> 
> ***Correction, after looking at a blow up of the pic...miniSQ is correct. Its a remote, if the OP would of did a couple of more winds around those RCA's am pretty sure he will get noise, lol.
> 
> ...


not sure how you could have been confused here...with the use of the same color yellow wire coming out of the quart amp +12v and then being reintroduced when a patch wire was needed for remote out. (insert sarcasm here)

Isn't that the industry standard?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> Because i am a little bored today and waiting for the coffee to kick in so i can go out and work on my own car on this warm vermont morning...i have been staring at this picture for a few minutes.
> 
> couple things are making me nervous....


Thanks for making me laugh! Loved your wit! Did you see the "Professional" installer's job? That really made me laugh (in pain)...



miniSQ said:


> 1. your power wire is laying on bare metal in the trunk...this is not safe...if it rubs anyplace and the wire contacts the chassis bad things can happen. This leads me to ask you to also check your engine compartment and snal a picture of the way it is attached and hopefully fused at the battery.


What would you recommend I do for the power wire? Should I install some type of cover, like the plastic snap kind?



miniSQ said:


> 2. It appears that the ground wire from the Lc7 runs under the Lc7??? Is that correct? Or is it an optical illusion? If it does...please change that. Also where is the amp grounded?


Already fixed. I did some more changes, like grounding the amp using the seat post bolt, and did not take a photo.



miniSQ said:


> You may want to try and run the ground wire of the the LV7 into the ground output of the amp in the same way the power is being done. That may affect some of this noise you are hearing.


That is a good idea. The LC7i ground is not very solid.



miniSQ said:


> 3. For my own and others OCD...please tell us again why the remote out wire is wrapped around those two missmatched RCA cable?


It was done by the installer when he ran the RCA and remote to the 2nd amp. He just forgot to undo it. I fixed it now though.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

TrickyRicky said:


> Nothing wrong with running a small remote wire with the RCA's, its very low current so it wont introduce noise to the RCA's.


Thanks for that bit of info!


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> not sure how you could have been confused here...with the use of the same color yellow wire coming out of the quart amp +12v and then being reintroduced when a patch wire was needed for remote out. (insert sarcasm here)
> 
> Isn't that the industry standard?


Hahaha, yeah, doesn't everyone just use whatever colored wires they want and twist the wires together (no solder), then use a little electrical tape? That is the BEST way to make a strong connection, right? Right? Why is everyone being so quiet......


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> What would you recommend I do for the power wire? Should I install some type of cover, like the plastic snap kind?


the power wire should run from the battery terminal (fused within 18" of the battery terminal)...thru the firewall (with a rubber grommet at the firewall to protect it.) and then down the side of the car ( secured with zip ties so it wont rub against metal )...and then into the trunk. 

Once in the trunk or hatch it needs to be secured as well. I would run some carpet or something under that wire to be safe. And like you suggested, some plastic sheathing is not a bad idea either. Its a good idea to look at how the wiring was done at the factory and mimic that. I do see a white zip tie on the power wire...but i don't see that as being secured to anything.

Also at the top of the picture...the blue power wire seems to be running near or under something black and shiny...is that metal? You definitely want to protect it there if it is.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> the power wire should run from the battery terminal (fused within 18" of the battery terminal)...thru the firewall (with a rubber grommet at the firewall to protect it.) and then down the side of the car ( secured with zip ties so it wont rub against metal )...and then into the trunk.
> 
> Once in the trunk or hatch it needs to be secured as well. I would run some carpet or something under that wire to be safe. And like you suggested, some plastic sheathing is not a bad idea either. Its a good idea to look at how the wiring was done at the factory and mimic that. I do see a white zip tie on the power wire...but i don't see that as being secured to anything..


The amps are located under the seats. I may move them to the trunk with an amp rack to make everything cleaner and easier to adjust.



miniSQ said:


> Also at the top of the picture...the blue power wire seems to be running near or under something black and shiny...is that metal? You definitely want to protect it there if it is.


The large thing above the power wire is the climate control vent. It is plastic. The frame support brace which the wire runs along is metal. The wrapped wires to which the power wire is zipped tied have a plastic sheathing.


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

What justifies the title "professional"? I'm assuming everyone thinks that any place that is an established business is automatically "professional". Or does the uniform dictate that?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> try and get your system set up so it sounds best with it at zero. Turning that knob is usually a bandaid best left as a last resort.


HOLY SILENCE!!! I did as recommended and the hiss is gone. I have to stick my ear like 1 inch from the tweeter to hear the hiss.

Unplugged amp outputs (to not blow speakers or ears).
Set amp gains to 0.
Set head unit to 35 of 40.
Used LC7i visual indicator of MAXIMUM to set line levels.
Plugged amp ouputs back in.
**Crossed fingers.

NO HISSING!!!!!!

Turned head unit to 28 of 40.
RESULT: Sound output is plenty for normal / loud listening.
Volume of 35 is definately the loudest I would ever want to listen for short perioids or to show off.

THANK YOU ALL for pointing out the RIGHT way to set the system levels.

Also thanks for all of the advice with the overall install. I still have to improve the mono amp and LC7i ground, plus install the grommets. I will post some final photos.

This forum is awesome. You all are like a 2nd family. Thanks so much!


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

I'm happy it all turned out well. I had a bit more to say but everyone else would beat me to the punch when I did lol. Next time somethings installed I'd say either do it yourself and ask around on here for some answers or post up and see if anyone on here lives nearby and can recommend a shop. There's also quite a few insanely good installers you can get in touch with on here. Simplicityinsound being an amazing example of consistant jaw dropping work.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

Deathjunior said:


> I'm happy it all turned out well. I had a bit more to say but everyone else would beat me to the punch when I did lol. Next time somethings installed I'd say either do it yourself and ask around on here for some answers or post up and see if anyone on here lives nearby and can recommend a shop. There's also quite a few insanely good installers you can get in touch with on here. Simplicityinsound being an amazing example of consistant jaw dropping work.


Well I appreciate the thoughts. Unfortunately I was is Afghanistan or else I would have done it myself. The only local options are this shop or Best Buy (who messed up my previous vehicle). I trust the manager at the shop I used, but obviously the installer was not double checked.

I think I will still redo it all one day and build an amp rack.

This forum is amazing and helped me get rid of the awful hiss. I also enjoy seeing the other builds on here. Everyone is so creative.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

Lol I work at bestbuy part time, so I see your point I trust my installers as people but I had amp install done years ago and since I had a discount and just wanted it done, (I had already built the box in my spare time). I just was to excited to get it done I had our guys install it while I was on my shift. Needless to say RCA's remote and power wire all run together and a nice turtle shell tek screw ground above my fuel tank no less. Worked fine and looked pretty decent but that is in my opinion NOT fine.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JRogers81 said:


> HOLY SILENCE!!! I did as recommended and the hiss is gone. I have to stick my ear like 1 inch from the tweeter to hear the hiss.
> 
> Unplugged amp outputs (to not blow speakers or ears).
> Set amp gains to 0.
> ...


glad it all worked out...now lets get some techflex and heat shrink around all that wire in the trunk


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

miniSQ said:


> glad it all worked out...now lets get some techflex and heat shrink around all that wire in the trunk


Well right now the amps are under the seats. I am moving in early March and once I get settled I plan to redo the entire system and make an amp rack for the trunk.


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

JRogers81 said:


> I trust the manager at the shop I used, but obviously the installer was not double checked.


You should go back and tell the manager what happened and how ****ty of a job the installer did. If nothing else to bring the issue to the manager's attention, but really they owe you some kind of refund.


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## jrs1006 (Sep 19, 2010)

Wow I just read the whole thing. I am just shocked and amused!! Glad everything worked out.


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## canuck (Jan 10, 2014)

simply send the manager this link and let him read it in front of you, then have a manager make a post explaining himself, either his business takes off because of His righteousness for the situation or you he goes under as everyone now knows keep us informed as I sit at my computer far far away


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



caraudioworld said:


> In one of the recent build logs of SIS they keep the OEM HU, but used the line driver from Arc Audio to prevent this kind of issues and be able to get a clear signal from the HU, I dont know exactly if your L7 is equivalent. Actually I am having a similar issue but with an 8th gen and I am looking to get the line driver to try to solve it.


I just faced this issue with a L7 in my new Honda accord 2014 and swapped it out for a Matrix Plus LD and my noise is GONE.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



luisc202 said:


> I just faced this issue with a L7 in my new Honda accord 2104 and swapped it out for a Matrix Plus LD and my noise is GONE.


But what did you do to correct for the reduction in bass from the head unit when you increase the volume above about 16? The LC7i had the Accubass feature, but the Matrix Plus does not.


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



JRogers81 said:


> But what did you do to correct for the reduction in bass from the head unit when you increase the volume above about 16? The LC7i had the Accubass feature, but the Matrix Plus does not.



The Bass reduction is happening in the factory amp itself. I am running from the Matrix to an Audison Bit One nd to 2 JL amps. I do not notice any bass loss while cranking my stereo soo far.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

*Re: HELP!!! Professional install resuled in audible hiss (photos).*



luisc202 said:


> The Bass reduction is happening in the factory amp itself. I am running from the Matrix to an Audison Bit One nd to 2 JL amps. I do not notice any bass loss while cranking my stereo soo far.


I have the factory amp bypassed and use the LC7i. I can tell you that the bass reduction happens at the head unit on our cars and the LC7i or a similar device is needed to restore the reduction.


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## The Performer (Aug 12, 2012)

Haven't paid much attention but just had a thought when you said "bass reduction" 

Are you saying after installing a after market sub and amp the Vass us sounding wrong? Has anyone said anything about the factory noise cancelling mic in those cars? 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

The Performer said:


> Haven't paid much attention but just had a thought when you said "bass reduction"
> 
> Are you saying after installing a after market sub and amp the Vass us sounding wrong? Has anyone said anything about the factory noise cancelling mic in those cars?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


You can (and must) unplug the factory ANC. As for the bass, at around 17 of 40 volume, the factory head unit starts reducing the bass output. It was a feature created to not blow the factory speakers. A unit like the LC7i increases the subwoofer output to compensate.


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

JRogers81 said:


> You can (and must) unplug the factory ANC. As for the bass, at around 17 of 40 volume, the factory head unit starts reducing the bass output. It was a feature created to not blow the factory speakers. A unit like the LC7i increases the subwoofer output to compensate.


Look at this build. They are only using a Line driver and a DSP. I asked the Q about the radio decreasing Bass as volume gets louder. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...dan-illusion-arc-alpine-rf-3.html#post2043164


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## The Performer (Aug 12, 2012)

JRogers81 said:


> You can (and must) unplug the factory ANC. As for the bass, at around 17 of 40 volume, the factory head unit starts reducing the bass output. It was a feature created to not blow the factory speakers. A unit like the LC7i increases the subwoofer output to compensate.


Yep, I've ran across a handful of these in the past few years. Mic has always been in the rear dome light assembly. Best thing to do is simply pull the dome light down and unplug the mic. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

JRogers81 said:


> You can (and must) unplug the factory ANC. As for the bass, at around 17 of 40 volume, the factory head unit starts reducing the bass output. It was a feature created to not blow the factory speakers. A unit like the LC7i increases the subwoofer output to compensate.


This is incorrect. Some of the best installers in this forum have verified the amp does the bass reduction and the signal from the HU is flat across on all channels. It is the same in the Acura's and soon the owners realized that and got rid of the LC7is and used LD in place to totally eliminate the noises they were experiencing.

For ex look at this thread from an install 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2043190-post58.html


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Here is another accord built by one of the top installers of this site. Same thing signal is flat and proves it here in this thread. I am just trying to get you the correct info. trust me I install all my stuff myself and when I crank my HU to vol 32 my mids are hitting my chest .

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-virtual-audition-forum/129908-2011-honda-accord-sedan.html


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

So today I removed the rear deck to silence the rattle, and the one of the rear speakers had a damn hole in it! I cannot prove that it was the installer, but I doubt that I did it by removing the deck. It looked just like I hole I made years ago to another speaker when the screwdriver slipped and punched through the cone. I HATE AUDIO ONE in Newport News!!! Worst install ever!!!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i think at this point, you should start taking pictures of these things and i can move it over to the review subforum.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

simplicityinsound said:


> i think at this point, you should start taking pictures of these things and i can move it over to the review subforum.



So I found out that the installer broke the cover on my passenger floorboard. This was the LAST damn straw. I wrote a 3 page letter for the store manager and organized photos and receipts. I called the manager (Steve) and asked for his e-mail. After a very brief summary of my issues he seemed receptive, but I will find out when he calls me back tomorrow. Here is the letter with the photos added into the message body. I will post a follow-up after he calls back, and after they finish the repairs. Thanks to everyone for the assistance!!!



To the Manager of Audio One in Newport News,

I purchased two 2013 Honda Accord EX-L sedans in July 2013, with the only difference being the color (black and grey). I then purchased new speakers, amps, and wiring kits to upgrade the audio system for both cars from either Crutchfield, Sonic Electronix, or Amazon. All parts except for the Alpine PDX-5 were new in-box. The Alpine PDX-5 was previously installed and then removed from the vehicle I traded-in. In late July I deployed to Afghanistan.
My model Accord has an active noise cancelling (ANC) system that uses one microphone in the front and one in the rear, which cause issues when installing a subwoofer. I researched the ANC issue before install and my friend brought in a print-out that I created with instructions and photos of how to disable the ANC, but keep the Bluetooth hands free capability.

My wife (Janel) and a family friend (Ronnie) handled the following transactions with Audio One:

On the morning of 9/7/2013, my friend Ronnie brought in the grey Accord to have component speakers, co-axial speakers, a line-output device, 5-channel amplifier, and a subwoofer installed. Everything was installed and the installer did not mention any issues.

That same afternoon, Ronnie picked up the grey car and brought in the black Accord to have component speakers, co-axial speakers, a 4-channel amplifier, a mono amplifier, and a subwoofer installed. The installer said that the model 4-channel amp I provided would not work with my system, so he did not install it. He did install the rest of the parts and did not mention any issues.
In the next week, my wife ordered a different 4-channel amplifier and on 9/21/2013 brought the car back to have it installed. The installer did not mention any issues.

A few days later, my wife listened to the install in the grey Accord and told me that the PDX-5 amplifier did not provide the bass she knew I wanted. I then ordered a more powerful mono amplifier. On 9/23/2013, Ronnie brought the grey accord in to have the mono amplifier installed. The installer did not mention any issues.

My wife also complained that the audio system in the black car had issues after installation. When turning on the radio, the subwoofer did not initially produce any sound. In order to get sound from the sub, you needed to turn the volume up very high and then the sub would be heard. You could then turn it down and it would continue to play. After a few days, nothing worked to make the subwoofer play. Also, the speakers cut in and out randomly.

My wife called back and spoke with the installer. He suggested that the Kicker ZX10SUM8 LoD was probably defective and recommended installing the same LC7i LoD that was installed in the grey car. My wife purchased the LC7i and on 10/25/2013 had it installed. The installer did not mention any issues.

I returned from Afghanistan on 01/03/2014. When I first turned on the grey car I noticed an audible hiss from the speakers. The hiss was present in both cars, with the radio on or off, with the engine off, and was even louder with the engine on. When testing the audio in the grey car I noticed that the left/right channels were reversed. Additionally, the Bluetooth hands free capability was not functioning in either car.

On 01/16/2014, I brought in the grey Accord to have the issues fixed. The installer corrected the left/right channels, and re-enabled the hands free microphone. He was unable to identify the cause of the hiss and suggested that it may be the factory radio or one of the installed parts malfunctioning. The installer was very friendly however.

That evening I asked for help on 2 audio forums, and the members suggested checking the LoD and amplifier grounds. I first checked the grey Accord. When I removed the floor panel, I was shocked by how messy the install was performed.










The power wire was run next to speaker and RCA wires, the grounds used very small screws, the wires were very loose and sloppy, and the installer did not clean up the mess from shaving the floor panel. Additionally, the remote wire was tied around the RCA wire. The padding under the floor panel was also torn.










After looking further, I saw that the power wires were run through the firewall with no grommet, and were loose in the footwell.










The power wire, RCA, and remote wires were also run loose and together behind the center console from the LoD to the other side of the car.










I cleaned up the install by vacuuming the shavings, re-running the RCA and speaker wires under a bracket, securing the power wire higher and away from the other wires, and improved grounded the amp to the seat post bolt. These steps reduced some of the hiss from the speakers.










The next day I noticed that the subwoofer was popping and the speakers were giving feedback during acceleration. This was indicative of the ANC microphone being enabled. I performed a system check using the head unit and it showed both the Bluetooth and the ANC microphones re-enabled. I checked the forum again and rear a new solution which instructed to unplug the ANC module which is located below the head unit and above the cubby. After unplugging the module, the popping and engine noise was no longer output from the speakers.

A few days later I finally got a good answer on the forum about the hiss after posting a photo of the gain levels. The LC7i is also a line driver, and the gains on the amplifier should have been set very low, not at 60% where they were set. When I turned the amp gains to 0 and set the LC7i gains to the clipping point by using its built-in indicator light, the hiss was gone. Before the adjustment, the volume produced a loud level at 20/40, and now needed to be at 28/40 for the same level, but there was no hiss.

A 01/31/2014, I went back to Audio One intending to speak with the manager and show him the photos. Instead, the installer was at the counter and I showed him the photos. I asked about his sloppy install and the way it was run and he had no real answer, other than he did not mean to leave it that messy. He said that he had forgotten to untie the remote line from the RCA after fishing it behind the dash. When I asked if grommets were normally installed, he said yes, but that they did not have any when doing my installation, hence why they were not installed. I expressed my displeasure and he offered an apology. We then discussed possible causes for the hiss and ways to improve the system. The installer was very friendly and the conversation very cordial.

On 02/09/2014, I removed the rear deck to install some sound deadener and foam padding to stop the rattles (as suggested by other Accord owners). I immediately noticed that the right co-axial speaker had a hole punched through it and other dents.










Also the speakers were not flush with the spacers due to the height of the spacer bolt.










I made a spacer with the padding between the stock spacer and the speaker, which allowed it to sit flush at the level of the bolt height. I then added the sound deadener and some padding which successfully stopped the rattles. 

On 2/10/2014 I finally checked out the install on the black Accord. The firewall had no grommets, the gain levels produced the same hiss, the hands free microphone was not functioning, the amplifier wiring was all run together under the seat.










The installer also broke the cover in the floor over the LC7i (grey car – normal cover, black car - broken cover).



















I have not removed any panels or the floor to review the install cleanliness in the black car. I have also not checked the mono amplifier on the grey car. I would rather bring them in to have the manager review the install since the black car has not been touched except for the gain levels and will be exactly how the installer left it.

In total I spent over $1,120 to get a “professional” installation which was extremely poor, sloppy, and required bring both cars back twice each to fix issues. During the installs, the installer broke the floor cover, ripped the foam padding, cracked the side panels, and punched a hole through a speaker. He did not mention any of these mistakes to anyone, or at least did not relay them at the time of completion. I also still need to bring the black car back again to have the hands free microphone reconnected.

I had a previous install performed at the Williamsburg location in 2012 and was very pleased. These most recent installs, hopefully, does not reflect how Audio One conducts business or the overall quality of your installations. The photos, receipts, and a spreadsheet of the work performed are included in separate documents. I would like the Store Manager or owner to contact me on my cell phone to discuss the matter further. Thank you.


Install price list compiled from receipts:


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

simplicityinsound said:


> i think at this point, you should start taking pictures of these things and i can move it over to the review subforum.


If you want to move this to the review subforum you can, or just let me know and I will start a new thread starting with the previous post. Thanks much!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

well said, and i hope it gets you some restitution from the shop in question, but as you are aware it is not likely.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

I spoke with the manager of Audio One again today after he reviewed the letter and photos. It was a good, long conversation, but the gist is that he apologized and said that it did not represent how Audio One conducts business. He plans to completely inspect and redo both vehicles, as well as replace the damaged parts.

I have worked with Audio One in the past, and they have always performed great installs. The staff is very friendly and helpful, so we can probably chalk this experience up as an anomaly. I am taking the first car back on Thursday and the second a few days later. I will post photos and a writeup afterwards.

Thanks again to all of those who gave advice. I greatly appreciate it!


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