# Installing new System in 1998 Dodge Ram quad cab and need advice.



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I am reposting this as i realized i posted this in the wrong section. My apologies for posting this twice.
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi everyone. Im new here and need some sound advive....lol. Get it, Sound advice..Ok, not really funny.

I have a 1998 dodge ram quad cab and my wife just bought me a Alpine Model: CDA-105 for my birthday. I would like a complete system and really dont know what to get or what would work best with that deck. Its my work truck. I listen to Rock Music only and im wondering what subs i should look at as well as power amp and door speakers for all 4 doors. I build houses for a living bit i dont know crap about stereos. Only that my stock one sounds like garbage. I dont have much room for sub boxes and the only ones i have found that fit under my back seat are sealed boxes. Are these good for rock music? I have the deck, i was thinking of a pair of 10" Alpine type R 4ohm subs and a power amp of some sort. What can you advise me on as far as what i should get to complete my system. Pretty much i need your help from the ground up as i dont know much about this sort of thing except that i want my guns n roses to sound the best ive ever heard it. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions you can throw my way. Its greatly appreciated. Happy Thanksgiving!!

Best,
~Moon

p.s if you think the deck i mentioned sucks i will even take that back if i have to...lol


----------



## GregU (Dec 24, 2008)

Whats your budget?

I would consider a nice 5/6 channel amp, components in the front, coax in the rear, and one or two tens under the seat. Keep it simple, it doesn't sound like your going for a SQ competition rules oreiented system here, sounds like you just want some good sound, correct?

You might have a hard time getting Type R's under the seat, I think the mounting depth for those are around 7.5 inches, plus wood thickness. Might be better off getting some low power shallow mount subs. Also, the 105 is a decent deck, fine for what your trying to do. Very simple to operate. 

EDIT: The type r get's decently loud, but is a tad on the sloppy side. Definatly NOT a favorite around here.

EDIT #2: Since this is a truck and space is limited, the JL 900/5 would be a great choice, it's on a very small chassis and has some nuts to it. Just an idea.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p8321/HD900-5--JL-Audio-5-Channel-900-Watt-HD-Series-Amplifier.htm


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Hey Greg,

I dont really have a budget per say. I am just kind of assuming that i would need to spend about 5-600 bucks(not including the deck). I could be way off here though?

Im not enrolling in competition no...lol I just want my rock to kick and be pleased with the money spent and the sound quality.

When you say components in the front and coax in the rear, what are you referring to exactley?

What type of speakers would you recommend as far as brand and wattage and all that?

Your right, i dont think those type r's will fit in the pre made boxes that are available for the dodge.

What would you suggest for low power shallow mount subs? 

Sorry to be so ignorant when it comes to stereo talk...lol

How many watts should the power amp be?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

That looks like great amp. Seems like it will do the trick.
What component speakers and coaxial speakers and 10" x 2 subs do you think will compliment my deck and that amp?

Edit # 1
it appears the subs will need to fit in this sealed sub box:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Atrend+...8.p?id=1218009779787&skuId=9026458&st=sub box


----------



## GregU (Dec 24, 2008)

MoonHills said:


> Hey Greg,
> 
> I dont really have a budget per say. I am just kind of assuming that i would need to spend about 5-600 bucks(not including the deck). I could be way off here though?
> 
> ...


Components - Are comprised of a midbass/midrange speaker and a seperate tweeter. Coax - the midrange and tweeter are a whole. Your going to have to do some searching with only $500-$600. First thing, your gonna want to build your own box, if your skills allow. Please do not ever get a prefab box, I sell them and I can tell you they are pieces of ****. As far as what brands, your gonna have to do some searching in the forums around here and come to your own conclusion based on the reviews. The wattage of the amp will depend on the speakers and sub choices. The best thing that I can say to do, is to read as many reviews on speakers and subs as you can and also check out some of the online retailers. Woofersetc.com is a good place to start. You have 6x9's up front, so if you want to do something like a 6.5" your gonna have to build plates, not very hard at all, just a little wood work.

Here is what a component set and a coax set look like.

Component
Image Dynamics Compon. Speakers - Lowest Prices - Largest Selection - WoofersEtc.com

And coax
Coaxial Speakers


----------



## GregU (Dec 24, 2008)

MoonHills said:


> That looks like great amp. Seems like it will do the trick.
> What component speakers and coaxial speakers and 10" x 2 subs do you think will compliment my deck and that amp?
> 
> Edit # 1
> ...


If you must choose that box, then it will work, it just won't be any near as good as a custom build. As for what subs, there are tons of subs that will fit. You'll need to find some subs that will preform well in at or around .6ft3 of enclosure volume per sub.

EDIT: Also, with that amp, it's sub channel is 500watts RMS, so that means your sub choice will also need to include a sub that requires at or around 250 RMS watts each.

EDIT2: Do some searching around and reading on here, especially in the member product review forum on here. I gotta hit the hay and get ready for a fu*ked up ass day at work tomorrow.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks Greg. I can go above my figure. i really didnt know how much this stuff cost. I dont need to search for the cheapest crap out there nor do i want to. Thanks for your help. I can build my own box no problem. SHould i build a sealed or ported box? What do you think?

Thanks for your tips. This gives me alot to go on as i continue my quest for a great system. Ill be back here asking more questions soon im sure....


----------



## GregU (Dec 24, 2008)

MoonHills said:


> Thanks Greg. I can go above my figure. i really didnt know how much this stuff cost. I dont need to search for the cheapest crap out there nor do i want to. Thanks for your help. I can build my own box no problem. SHould i build a sealed or ported box? What do you think?
> 
> Thanks for your tips. This gives me alot to go on as i continue my quest for a great system. Ill be back here asking more questions soon im sure....


Well, with a ported box, generally speaking, you would need to atleast double the volume in the enclosure, per sub, plus port displacement. So, you might only get to fit one ten if you wanted ported. It would be so much better for tonal balance to run two sealed rather than one ported. Plus, if you build your own box, you can custom talor it to fit just about any sub(generally speaking). If the subs are facing forword, you can always build rings for the subs to mount onto so you can accomidate for a deeper sub. Do some searching around and see what peaks your interest. If your not sure or can't decide on a product, feel free to ask. You might wanna check out Image Dynamics products. 


2 of these subs would be a PERFECT setup with the prefab box you listed, also would complement the JL 900/5 perfectly. I think that they would fit in the enclosure also, but not sure. The IDQv2's are not a large from sub by any means. IDQ10V2.D4 - Image Dynamics 10" IDQ Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer Any of Image Dynamics component speakers would be a great choice, even their bottom of the line CTX65cs, for the money it's hard to beat. 

P.S. I am biased towards Image Dynamic products, if you haven't noticed.


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

To be honest there are so many respected members of these forums either having financial difficulties, or just getting rid of extra stuff you can probably get your best deal on some barely used equipment from the classifieds. There is a ton of high-end gear for what you'll pay for "run of the mill" stuff new.

For instance...this member has an Alpine CDA9887 which looks to be in mint condition, and his price is now reduced to $230 shipped. Probably not that much more than what you've spent on your CDA-105. Here's the Alpine comparison chart. Way better deck as far as sound quality...I mean a lot better...4v preamp out instead of 2, 24bit burr brown D/A converters instead of 16, built in features like time delay, parametric EQ, etc..has more where you won't need to purchase an extra adapter and what not.

Now with that said, I'm not telling you to buy this deck...I don't know "The Dude", never dealt with him (has great iTrader feedback so far), not trying to help him sell it, but my point is that there are some great deals to be had here by people who take care of their stuff, and who have some really GREAT stuff. You just have to have patience and see what pops up. New things are added daily.

I understand if you don't want to buy used, but a lot of it is BNIB (brand new in box...since your new  ).

Just an option for you to get the most out of your hard earned money. If nothing else you can also learn the places where a lot of us buy our things new..Like woofersetc.com (which was mentioned earlier), madisound.com, or parts-express.com, etc... Heck if you check out the vendor section here, we have manufacturers here that post specials all the time on equipment such as http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com which is offering a discount this weekend. 

Again be patient, you will find no shortage of people here who wish they would have done things right the "first time around" Learn all you can so you don't end up buying something spur-of-the-moment that you might end up regretting.

Did you get all that?

Welcome to the forums


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks Gymrat.

I'll take a look at that deck. I have no preference for new or used as long as its good stuff. I will also check out those links you sent.

Thank you very much.

~Moon


----------



## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

Since you asked for advice, I'll add in. First decide what it is that you intend to use the system for. If it's just to drive around town and listen or if you want to pull up at the beach and blast the next twenty folks out of existance.
Thats power. You don't need 1000 watts to drive around, you might at the beach. 50 watts rms is a lot of power for the inside of a vehicle, I normally settle in around 100 for an amp just for head room. The lower the frequency the more power it takes to create the sound. So if you want tens under the seat, then you'll need more power. The more power you need the more trouble down the road on the electrical system.

There's a lot of hype for brand names, it's a gimmick just like any other sales routine. We've built speakers since the early 1900's so it's not like we've created something new in the tech world. Pay attention to the speaker sensitivty, the lower the number, the more power it will take to drive. Say for instance you settle on a 100 watt amp and the speakers you select has a sensitivty of 85db. Each 3db is a power level, a double in power. So if you pushing 30 watts into the speaker, the next level you'll hear is 60. I've seen sub woofers with 78db sensitivty, thats down right disgusting.

If I can push a woofer that has 87db sensitivty with 50 watts and be happy, the 78db woofer will take three more power levels or 150 watts to do the same. It's goes out as wasted heat. But there are a lot of folks that like to be able to say they are pushing 500 watts, bigger is better right. If I can do the same with a fraction of the power, what's the point?


----------



## GregU (Dec 24, 2008)

Dryseals said:


> Since you asked for advice, I'll add in. First decide what it is that you intend to use the system for. If it's just to drive around town and listen or if you want to pull up at the beach and blast the next twenty folks out of existance.
> Thats power. You don't need 1000 watts to drive around, you might at the beach. 50 watts rms is a lot of power for the inside of a vehicle, I normally settle in around 100 for an amp just for head room. The lower the frequency the more power it takes to create the sound. So if you want tens under the seat, then you'll need more power. The more power you need the more trouble down the road on the electrical system.
> 
> There's a lot of hype for brand names, it's a gimmick just like any other sales routine. We've built speakers since the early 1900's so it's not like we've created something new in the tech world. Pay attention to the speaker sensitivty, the lower the number, the more power it will take to drive. Say for instance you settle on a 100 watt amp and the speakers you select has a sensitivty of 85db. Each 3db is a power level, a double in power. So if you pushing 30 watts into the speaker, the next level you'll hear is 60. I've seen sub woofers with 78db sensitivty, thats down right disgusting.
> ...


Ok, while I agree with your theory, I also agree it's a little on the conservative side. If he wants to run 4 door speaks and 2 subs, he's going to need to beef it up a little. 250RMS watts a sub is not anything out of the ordinary, it definatly does not fall under the SPL catagory, the IDQ is also a fairly efficient sub, neither does 100x4 for door speaks. Plus just because he has this power on tap does not mean he's going to use it all, what it could equate to is a less distorted signal.


----------



## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

GregU said:


> Ok, while I agree with your theory, I also agree it's a little on the conservative side. If he wants to run 4 door speaks and 2 subs, he's going to need to beef it up a little. 250RMS watts a sub is not anything out of the ordinary, it definatly does not fall under the SPL catagory, the IDQ is also a fairly efficient sub, neither does 100x4 for door speaks. Plus just because he has this power on tap does not mean he's going to use it all, what it could equate to is a less distorted signal.


Yes, it is conservative and it reflects right into your pocket book. But that's also why I asked if this was to be a system for driving around or something to play at the beach.

What has always amazed me is how 100 amp at home is more power than you could listen to, but for some odd reason, not near enough in a car. Also given that the standard for home is 8 ohms and cars 4. The 100 watt home amp is half the music power as the car.

I'm an old dog, 52, who has built systems since I was 10, the old tube days. So I've watched all the trends in home audio and car audio. Car audio is probably the biggest money making market out there. And for some odd reason, power is the key word.

The shift now is the SQ world, but power still dominates in the background.

50 watts into a 91db sensitivty set of speakers should be able to create 100 plus db of sound. 100 watts will reach the uncomfortable level. In the old tube days, we were lucky to have 12 watts, 20 was a killer. Yet we could create the sound levels needed for home. 100 watts could fill a stadium. If the system is designed right from the beginning, all that extra power is just that, extra.

The problem in most vehicles is that the sound field is so short, that the lower frequencies don't have a chance to fully produce before the interior reflections start to cancel out the original sound. So what's the answer, more power, so you can "feel" the bump. I call that the feel of distortion, not music.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Well, i just want a great sounding system to listen to in my truck when driving around to and from work mostly. I dont need to be heard 3 blocks away. I just want my pink floyd and my ac dc to rock my cab but with clarity and punch. I dont want to break my bank and cant afford $500 ea subwoofers. I just want to replace my front 6 x 9's my rear door 5.25"s and add 2 10" subs and whatever else i need to power them. Im not looking to be in competition anywhere. I can afford a moderate price range. I already have the Alpine CDA-105. I kind of get lost when your talking about all the db and ohm stuff because i dont deal with stereos on a daily basis..lol. If you could suggest maybe some brands and sizes that would complete a set for my truck i would be forever grateful. I can just buy it all and have it installed. I hope this sheds some clarity on what im looking for. And thanks again for all your help in helping me understand all this. I never thought wanting to purchase a new sound system for my truck would be this confusing...lol


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

It's not that confusing...you just have to read a bit more to understand it fully. And it is important to understand what you are doing, so as I said before, you can do it right the first time. After all this is "Do It Yourself" mobile audio..not "hey can you do everything for me" mobile audio

Real quickly, the db ratings they were referring to is simply a way to rate the efficiency of a speaker. As you know decibels, or db's are the measurement for volume or loudness. and the standard in rating a speaker is to measure the db level with 1 watt of input. So a speaker that is rated at 90db is playing that volume level with 1 watt of input and is playing louder than something playing at 87db with that same 1 watt input, and is therefore considered more efficient. This is important because in the land of db's or volume levels, a gain of only +3db signifies a volume that is twice as loud. So again a speaker playing at 90db is approximately twice as loud as a speaker playing 87db. This would really be important with an amplifier with a modest output. And as dryseals was saying in order to gain that +3db, you would have to provide twice as much power....so again each +3db gain requires twice as much power. moral of the story is that if you don't have the money to shell out for super high power amps and can only afford say a good 50watt amp, you will need to have a very efficient speaker to reach the volume levels that will more than likely make you satisfied. 

An ohm (read up on ohm's law) is simply the measured resistance that the speaker presents to the amplifier, also known as the impedance of the speaker. The lower the resistance/impedance of the speaker, the more power the amplifier will produce because of it. Look at the ratings of an amp, you will see something like 50W X2 @4ohm or 75W X2 @2ohms. Again lower resistance/impedance means amp will work to produce more power. It's also harder on the amplifier, and too low of a resistance/impedance can actually make the amp work too hard for it's own good (another time...baby steps..lol). Customary impedance of a 6"X9", a 6.5", a tweeter, a woofer, etc..is about 4ohms. Ultimately this will more than likely only play a part in your selection in subwoofer and sub amp.

I'm sure some of the members here, including myself, won't mind helping you pick out some components, but you really need to some of the leg work yourself. Bring in some ideas, and we will tell you if something will work or not, and why it will or will not work for you.

Here is a real quick suggestion for you. Don't worry about replacing the rear speakers in the truck...it's money best spent elsewhere in the system. Hook the deck up to power the rears, but leave the deck faded to the fronts so essentially they are turned off. Once you have rear passengers you can fade the rear fill back in for them. You will get more for your money by putting your cash into a better amp, and buying better front speakers/sub(s) than replacing the speakers all around. 

just my 2 cents...now I'm broke!


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Ok, let's bring this to the top.

Moonhills, I've seen your ideas from your other post.

Question 1. What woodworking, fabrication skills do you possess?
Question 2. How much time do you have to do the whole system? Unlimited? Is time a huge factor so that someone will have to do the install for you?
Question 3. What are you starting with? Just the head unit?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Great fabrication skills.
I have lots of time to do an install. Im off work until after Christmas.
I just question my install ability but if possible, i would like to do it myself.
Yes on the h/u. My wife bought it for me and so far thats all i have.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Ok, grabbing your quote and pasting:

*Well, i have a 1998 dodge ram quad cab.
My experience in wood working is great. My profession is custom home remodeling. I have all the tools to build anything. I have zero experience in wiring up a audio system. 

Since it is my work truck, my goal is to lose my stock stereo and speakers and give it a nice upgrade that wont break the bank. I just want a nice full punchy sound when i decide to crank up my music such as AC DC, GUNS N ROSES, RADIO HEAD, stuff like that. I want it to thump and be loud and clear. I would also like to keep the subs under the back seat as i throw tools in the back all the time. Not including the h/u, i would like to keep the cost to around a grand(give or take).* 

Now, you have the best advantage of most us here,..you know how to fabricate! Let's take advantage of that.

First thing I would do, is factor in what it costs to deaden the vehicle properly. This is paramount to getting not only good sound, but also less annoying road noise, rattles, and squeaks just driving down the road. Deadening materials from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com would be my suggestion. Don is great to work with, sells a hell of a product. The "Best Buy" (chuckle) answer to deadening is to buy a huge ass pack of Dynamat Xtreme for near $360 bucks. There are better ways. With a large truck, you'll probably want 30 sheets of CLD, 4 sheets of CCF 1/8", and a couple sheets of MLV. You don't have to do it all at once, but consider that your truck will be quite literally taken down to the bare interior...its smart to bother with this stuff at once.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok, im bookmarking any links you send me so i can read them in detail.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

This is gonna be a fun as hell project.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK, I can deal with that.

First...I mentioned it before but consider Basic Car Audio Electronics as bootcamp towards car audio. Lots and lots and lots of info.

OK, since you have fab skills, take a look at crew cab boxes, specifically ones for your truck. Then, make one!

Where can the amps go? Crew cabs typically have almost no room, so what's the plan there?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

hmm, good question. i suppose i need two amps so im thinking one under each front seat?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> hmm, good question. i suppose i need two amps so im thinking one under each front seat?



That's what I was thinking.

Your head unit can do active processing (I think) with the Imprint accessory, so that's a plus. 

If not, there are rare but excellent sounding Kenwood eXcelon amps that have digital processors built right in. And they are small!


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Check this out...much better price
Dodge Ram Quad Cab 94-01 MTX Thunderform Subwoofer Boxes - Subwoofer Box | Subwoofer Enclosures | Car Subwoofer Boxes and Truck Subwoofer Boxes at SuperCrewSound

This may be one of those vehicles that's hard to make a box for. Are you good at fiberglassing?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Im gonna say no on fiberglassing. I have no experience with that


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Searching for the last 20 min or so I found that virtually nobody makes a sub box for your truck! Newer ones, yes...tons. You are virtually screwed my pal.

The easiest way to do this will likely be the MTX sub box. The cheapest way to buy it will be pre-loaded with subs. Honestly, I'm not a fan of those subs but you might as well try them and at least use them for the price they are when included in the box. 

This is an eBay link for the box, sans amp but with subs
MTX THUNDERFORM DODGE RAM EX CAB TRUCK SUB BOX W/ 2-10:eBay Motors (item 130351737158 end time Dec-21-09 19:02:22 PST)

When buying online, always activate Bing Cashback (usually 8% cashback in 60 days), and you can also enable eBay bucks at about 2% as well. That money can easily add up. Or to think of it this way... $319.99 * .92 = $294.39... and that's doable.

Make sure that's your model though!


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

I think I understand your question. 

You can get an MTX Thunderform for your backseat. That's two 10" subs in a plastic enclosure that is made to fit perfectly underneath the back seat in your truck. It should cost around $350. 

You can power those subs with a 600 watt amp. Look up Kenwood KAC-6104. You should be able to buy that for about $100. 

Now you're up to $450 total, so you could replace the factory head unit with an aftermarket stereo that costs around $150. 

Look at this auction: ALPINE CDE-102 CD MP3 USB CAR STEREO AUDIO IPOD PLAYER - eBay (item 220505705280 end time Jan-03-10 13:09:24 PST)

That head unit has several expandable options for later, like if you want to add an ipod or another input, and it should make your factory door speakers sound a little bit better. 

There you go. $600 and it will be pretty obvious that it's not a stock stereo system. 

Most people around here are so into car audio that a setup like this just seems retarded to them, but I remember when I couldn't afford jack sheeit, and all i wanted was just SOME bass and a couple extra options on my head unit, and this setup would have satisfied my needs back in those days. 

PS, I had that exact same truck and I think I spent like exactly $600 to upgrade the stereo.


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

he already has a head unit


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

yeah, it seems like the MTX Box is the way to go. I like those savings. They will add up for sure. Ok, so i have the alpine cda-105 and so far it looks like we'll add the MTX box with the thunder4500 already installed. Excellent. Whats next?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Yeah, for the price, it seems like i should just get the box with subs already installed.


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

MoonHills said:


> yeah, it seems like the MTX Box is the way to go. I like those savings. They will add up for sure. Ok, so i have the alpine cda-105 and so far it looks like we'll add the MTX box with the thunder4500 already installed. Excellent. Whats next?


How much money do you have left after that?

You still need an amp. That Thunderform does not come with an amp built in, so you need a way to power the subs. You will just need one amp, not two. It needs to be about 600 watts, I believe. I said in my earlier post, you can get a 600 watt amp for about $100. Really, you could get a cheap one for about $50, but for something that will at least work all the time, and not overheat or shut off when it's too cold, or break in a year's time, you should expect to pay from $100 to $250 for your amp. Just pick any brand name that sounds familiar, and you'll be fine, as long as it's at least 600 watts. It can be one channel too. You don't need 2 channels for that thunderform, even though it's 2 subs.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

You know in this situation and the fact they only reduce the sub box price by $80 if you go "unloaded", I think it makes sense to keep those subs in. They are better than $40 each, IMO. Not a TON better, but hey, they won't suck and it leaves you more money to get your system kicking.

Now, You are only ~$299 in, and you have your sub box and amp. That's progress!

Next, set aside $200 for deadener, CCF, and MLV. Ask Don to put together a solid setup for your truck, and set $200ish as your budget. You can always do more, but this will get you in the game.

Next, Let's get you some amps. I recommend a 4ch and a monoblock, but pay attention..those subs want a 4ohm total load if I read the MTX info right. With that, you need a sub amp that can do that.

Working...


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

After i get the MTX? Im guessin around 700 give or take.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

YEAH, I read the impedance is single 4 ohm.


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Next, set aside $200 for deadener, CCF, and MLV. Ask Don to put together a solid setup for your truck, and set $200ish as your budget. You can always do more, but this will get you in the game.


He only needs one amp for that Thunderform, and he doesn't need to spend any more than $150 to $200 tops. 

I disagree with the deadener idea. Based on his goals, and what we've suggested so far, I say skip the deadener and just use the extra funds for a set of door speakers.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Check this out, I found them:

Kenwood X4R, a few people here have them, and like them. They are highly efficient, and this particular model has a high end processor built right end. Active processing with time alignment... 
Free Shipping (219.95) KENWOOD KAC-X4R (KACX4R) <br>4-Channel 1200W eXcelon Series AMPLIFIER [Refurbished]

Here's the matching sub amp:
Free Shipping (219.95) KENWOOD KAC-X1R (KACX1R) <br>MONO-Channel eXcelon 2400W AMPLIFIER [Refurbished]

They are refurbed, but Millionbuy is a damn good place to buy, given the prices and such. 

If you don't care about processing (and you probably WILL), there are many other small amps that would work just as well. I just picked them because the processing is nice to have.

Your head unit can work with an optional Alpine processor, so that might be the better approach. Your call.

Small amps that would fit (price, performance, fit everywhere I mean):
Memphis street
Soundstream stealth


working...


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

MoonHills said:


> After i get the MTX? Im guessin around 700 give or take.


If you've already got:

1. Head unit
2. Subs + Enclosure
3. Amp for Subs

and you've still got $700 left to spend, 
then I would replace all the factory speakers with aftermarket speakers, or even component speakers if you can afford them.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Dude... I know exactly what I'm doing recommending systems.

I want you to do your own research but trust me, deadener should be priority #1.

Ask your elders..lol. We are looking out for you.

Working on amps... I like the Kenwoods though because the price is right, and the processing will come in handy.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I just read about the processing.(I care). Seems like a good choice for the amp.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Im definitely going to sound deaden my cab.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Anadrol said:


> If you've already got:
> 
> 1. Head unit
> 2. Subs + Enclosure
> ...


All i have is the head unit.

The rest is what im lining up for purchase.


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Dude... I know exactly what I'm doing recommending systems.
> 
> I want you to do your own research but trust me, deadener should be priority #1.
> 
> ...


Did I say you don't know what you're doing? 
Take the condescension elsewhere, Chet. We're both here helping a guy out, giving free advice in the middle of the night. 

Do not assume that I don't have my own understanding and appreciation for sound deadener. I've got a vehicle right now in the middle of a complete sound deadening revolution that will go well over the $1K mark in materials alone. 

For this guy, who initially said he was shooting for $500 to $600 for his total outfit, I doubt 1/5 of his budget needs to go towards Dynamat.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> I just read about the processing.(I care). Seems like a good choice for the amp.


Yep, either do that or use the Alpine processor made for your head unit. A lot of people like Imprint, but find that once its done its thing, you can't do crap to it. To me, tuning is half the joy of making a system work. Your mileage may vary! I do know Imprint tends to be flat and a little bass-weak, but you can fix that by simply pulling the bass up after Imprint does its thing. Its the time alignment and crossover ability you need to keep in mind.

Next question, are you ready to go active on your front stage? Before answering, will the woofer and tweeter be close together, or will they separate (like woofer in the door, tweeter in the a-pillar or door sill). If you are separating, heavily consider running ACTIVE to tame the path length differences you will have.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Through this process i have come to realize that if i want a great sounding system i need to up my budget somewhat. Im not glued on the 5-600 dollar range. Minus the head unit, if i can do this for a grand or less i would be happy.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I dont really know. Would it make sense to have it mounted where the speaker will be? Will this be a drastic reduction in sound?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Moving on man..moving on. His budget is a g. And, yeah, deadening should be about 15-20% of the system budget. That's just smart. You don't want your vehicle to resonate and distort after you spend 100's of hours and hundreds of dollars on gear. And you kinda want to take the whole truck to bare metal once, because that **** is annoying and not worth doing more than once.

I'm not going to debate you or anybody on deadener, but I will say there's an efficient way to do it. I've already provided the link, MoonHills got it, and let's push on.


MoonHills, which sounds more appealing...Imprint with your Alpine head unit, or stand-alone processors in the amp?


----------



## Anadrol (Feb 11, 2009)

MoonHills said:


> Through this process i have come to realize that if i want a great sounding system i need to up my budget somewhat. Im not glued on the 5-600 dollar range. Minus the head unit, if i can do this for a grand or less i would be happy.


Yeah, that's more realistic if you want something you're going to be proud of. 

My hang ups on the sound deadening portion of this was mainly if you were really trying to stay under $600, then how in the heck can you buy enough of the stuff to cover anything but a door or two? 

Also, if you try to skimp on that material by purchasing the cheap stuff, it can come unglued and start falling off after a certain amount of time, and then all your hard work in sticking it on is lost. 

If you can afford to do it, then by all means, cover every metal surface with the stuff. It will make a huge difference both when your music is playing and when you're just driving down the highway and wanting peace and quiet.


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> deadener should be priority #1.


Almost as important as any amplifier, or speaker in my eyes. A lower noise floor due to unwanted resonances, and a reduced level of road noise is almost like adding extra power to the amplifiers and should not be overlooked. The quieter the inside of the cab is, the louder the overall system will appear.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

stand-alone processors in the amp


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> I dont really know. Would it make sense to have it mounted where the speaker will be? Will this be a drastic reduction in sound?



If the tweeter is blocked by anything, like the dash, your leg, the seat, etc... well you aren't going to hear it. Also staging is affected. Notice all of our builds in the forums. You'll notice a lot of guys put the tweeters as far forward as reasonable. This helps equalize pathlengths, and it brings the stage as far forward as possible. Car audio is a bunch of compromises, one set on top of the other. Home audio is 100x easier given that pathlengths are usually good, the speaker baffles match the tweeter to the woofer (and that's why they are passively crossed..no time alignment needed!)

Man it gets much deeper, but for the moment dig and see what other builds regarding your truck look like. Get ideas, ya know?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Anadrol said:


> Yeah, that's more realistic if you want something you're going to be proud of.
> 
> My hang ups on the sound deadening portion of this was mainly if you were really trying to stay under $600, then how in the heck can you buy enough of the stuff to cover anything but a door or two?
> 
> ...



My friend, you need to visit our forum buddy Don, his website is www.sounddeadenershowdown. His product sticks like crazy, is thick and I mean thick (like, I accidentally picked up a piece of CLD tile the wrong way and sliced my finger on the thick foil really bad, thick), the CCF is awesome and extremely easy to work with (so is Ensolite at RAAMaudio, but I like Don's stuff better.) The MLV...well MLV may be skipped and you'll still get awesome results, so perhaps if there is one place to skimp, its here. I still love using the stuff, especially on the back wall, door skins (if they will hold the thick stuff), and the floorboards.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

is the pillar basically the sides of the windshield?


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

yup..that trim is known as the A-pillar


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Yep, either do that or use the Alpine processor made for your head unit. A lot of people like Imprint, but find that once its done its thing, you can't do crap to it. To me, tuning is half the joy of making a system work. Your mileage may vary! I do know Imprint tends to be flat and a little bass-weak, but you can fix that by simply pulling the bass up after Imprint does its thing. Its the time alignment and crossover ability you need to keep in mind.
> 
> Next question, are you ready to go active on your front stage? Before answering, will the woofer and tweeter be close together, or will they separate (like woofer in the door, tweeter in the a-pillar or door sill). If you are separating, heavily consider running ACTIVE to tame the path length differences you will have.


What does that mean? Running Active?


----------



## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

means the tweeter/midrange/woofer will all have their own amplification and any crossover functions will either be done before the amp, or by the amp itself.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> is the pillar basically the sides of the windshield?


Yep. Dig and check out builds, see what's good in your eyes. I recommend during your system build process that you try out different tweeter locations and discover what feels right. You know, a great thing about running active is that you don't really have to buy a set of components. You can make your own combo out of great separates.

I'd hunt down 6.5" drivers, and a tweeter that works well.

Or, go ahead and run a proven component set. 

The current forum boner worth a damn is the PPI 356cs component set. I'd recommend digging through the classifieds and hot deals area for guidance here.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK, I gotta sleep. Dig around, have fun with the all the possibilities..and start drafting up a gameplan from the stuff in hot deals and classifieds, and of course whatever you find attractive.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

If you think those will do the trick, im happy with those. Is it worth getting rear speakers?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks Fourthmeal. You've really helped me a great deal. Im going to do alot of research based on what you have thrown my way. Lets talk again soon.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK, got a little free time at work, and did some research on those amps.

The Kenwood X4R will do full active with proper crossovers, time delay, and EQ. You can also do something REALLY trick..later on you can add the Alpine Imprint kit, let it do the initial tune (the thing only runs ~$120), and then from this flat point created by the mic and the processing done in the box, you can fine tune to your preference with the Kenwood amps. The Imprint device would be ideal if you could tune and also do active cross points, but you can't. So both combined might be spectacular. Also, the Imprint runs your RCA outs, and the box can be located away from the head unit via the Alpine-specific AiNet cable which should be noise-free, so you could feasibly have ultra-short RCA's running to the amps. 

Either way, you've got some processing power here, and that's going to come in handy running active. Now, your sub amp is rated conservatively at 600W @ 4ohm, so that's ideal too. And when one day you feel like upgrading those MTX subs a bit, you can then pick out subs to create a 2ohm load, and run about twice as much power.

Thinking of your wiring needs, I've decided to recommend something unique, but hopefully more effective. I think you should install double-barrel 4 gauge through the truck. Some people will lament that you should install 1/0 gauge wire then run a fused distribution block to 4 gauge, then to the amps. Not me. Stephen Mantz at Zed Audio said that one way to ensure each amp gets its optimum voltage is to run straight to the battery, and in this case this helps you because with your amps under the seat, you need a very straightforward wiring solution. So, I would run two runs of 4 gauge straight to the battery, and fuse using a pair of traditional main fuses. For wire, I've long been a fan of Knukonceptz, especially using the Kolossus Flex (I always spell it wrong, because _they do._) For RCA, you need a 4ch pair, and a 2ch pair. Or 3 sets of 2ch. Measure for these based on where you expect the amps to land. Remember, you need to be able to tune the system by reaching for the amps from time to time, so consider running the main 4ch amp on the passenger side, and the sub amp under your side. That way, with the passenger seat all the way forward, you can stretch and reach over and tweak things a little here and there, then sit and listen. The sub amp will be more "set and forget". 

Remember these are refurbs, they may be blemished on the cover here and there. I actually like refurbs, because that means a human Kenwood employee (probably in the states) very likely went over the amp with a fine-toothed comb and made sure it is running perfectly. But always consider your warranty options and budget accordingly when buying on the net. 

To verify they will fit, consider making a simple cardboard box (3D) in the shape of this amp. Then, stuff it where you want it, and validate that you'll be able to reach the important stuff for tuning at some point while it is mounted.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Wow, what a day, im wiped!

Thanks Fourthmeal. I am going to study everything you have said and implement it in my build. Do you think i will even need to get some speakers for the rear doors? I hear conflicting opinions on whether or not it is worth it to put some in the rear doors. What are your thoughts on that? Where is a good place to get all the cabling?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Also, i dont mind referbs at all. I buy most of my tools refurbished and have never had a problem ever.


----------



## kh971 (Oct 20, 2008)

Moon if you are like me and do construction for a living, do not mount the speakers in the kick panels. You will get in your truck with dirt and mud on your boots and get your speaker grills dirty. 
I have 2 1994 Dodges and a 2003 Quad Cab Diesel.
Is the 1998 similar in door design to the 1994? I did not know if it was? I have alot of experience in installing in the 1994 Dodge Single cab and also the 2003 Quad cab.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Hey kh971, 

Yes im in construction. I own a drywall company and do alot of home remodeling. I looked at the 94" and it seems to be the same. Its the quad cab. Its like a extended cab with half a door that swings open. The front doors look pretty much the same. My front door speakers are by my feet. Luckily i live in Los Angeles so i dont see much mudd however im curious as to how you set your system up?


----------



## kh971 (Oct 20, 2008)

Okay I installed maybe 6-8 systems in my 1994. My salesman has a 1998 extended cab, i will look at it tommorrow. If you can find a pair of used Image Dynamics CD Comp Mini Horns, they will fit under your dash perfectly and they sound great with any music. They are bascily big tweeters on the back of a curved horn, that attach to the bottom of your dash, then I put a 8 inch midbass in each door. I had 2 Aluminum cone Eclipse 12's behind my seat and I ran the whole setup on a Memphis Belle amplifier. It was a great system. I had to cut the metal on my doors a little to fit the 8's but it was worth it.
I don't think you will find anybody here find fault with Image Dynamics Horns, they can produce beautiful sound and they are a very efficent speaker,(so they get real loud with little power.) Check the classifieds forum here and somebody probably has a pair they might be willing to sell for $300 or cheaper, you do want the Mini Horns though. 
If you want a simple install, let me look at my salesman's truck and I will be back with you tommorrow. You can check out my install in the Build Logs that I am doing under the title "Another Dodge Ram install"


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Given the funds available for the project, horns may be out of picture. I think it would make a fantastic upgrade in the future though!

MoonHills, clarify for me what you prefer in your music. Just rate between 1 and 5 on this scale:

Laid Back - 1 2 3 4 5 - In your face, aggressive

Detailed/Intricate - 1 2 3 4 5 - Smooth and blending/ambient

Loud - 1 2 3 4 5 - Subdued

Concert/Live sound - 1 2 3 4 5 - DJ/Premixed Sound (meaning, do you prefer your music live and natural, or more pre-recorded and boosted in some areas to accentuate the music?)

For the dollar, whatever that number might be:
Power/volume 1 2 3 4 5 Clarity/Detail


Then we can at least head a direction with regard to what speakers you can consider to meet your audio wishes.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Given the funds available for the project, horns may be out of picture. I think it would make a fantastic upgrade in the future though!
> 
> MoonHills, clarify for me what you prefer in your music. Just rate between 1 and 5 on this scale:
> 
> ...


What about the PPI 356cs component set front speakers you mentioned?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> What about the PPI 356cs component set front speakers you mentioned?



They are neutral to a lot of people, power hungry (not a problem for the amp you have in mind), and smooth.

Inexpensive little speakers though, really a bargain if you like the sound.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Based on my my numbers of rrating list you gave me, would these be a wise choice or shall i look at a different pair? What are your thoughts on the rear speakers?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I am officially off work until the New Year. Hooray. Now i can focus on my sound system...


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I think if you are neutral on many aspects of taste, the 356cs components are a smart buy. Hell, you can always sell them in the classifieds later. 

For rears, try running stock for a while or permanently. As long as they aren't blown.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I dont think they are blown. I looked threw the door and i see pioneer 5.25's. I get some distortion when i crank up my stock stereo but from what ive been reading, my guess is that they are under powered. So heres the complete rundown minus the cabling you mentioned.

ALPINE cda 105 H/U

MTX BOX WITH THUNDER4500 INSTALLED 

SOUND DEADENER 

KENWOOD KAC-X4R (KACX4R)  4-Channel 1200W eXcelon Series AMPLIFIER [Refurbished] 


KENWOOD KAC-X1R (KACX1R)  MONO-Channel eXcelon 2400W AMPLIFIER [Refurbished] 

PPI 356cs component set front speakers.
Tweeters in the A PILLAR (run active)

keep(for now) rear door speakers.

If you see no problem with this set up then im ready to start purchasing.
Where do you recommend for cabling?

If you dont mind me asking, how better is this set up then the one i mentioned at first? You know, the "Best Buy" set up...lol hell of alot cheaper, thats for sure.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Well, now you are running active, you have EQ, and time-alignment control of each speaker so you have fine control over the front stage. You have more power on your front stage, you have what should be $500 retail worth of front speakers, you have a non-resonant vehicle from deadener, and you have about three times the amplifier power to your subs. 

I'd say that puts you in a completely different territory.

The rest, as they say, is in the install.

For wire, measure out where you can put those amps (if under the seat works, test with cardboard first like I said before), and then measure the distance of each amp to the battery, then add like 5 feet. I bet you'll want around 25-30 feet of 4 gauge wire, run one 4 gauge to each battery. Get two main fuse holders, and 6 channels worth of RCA's long enough to run to your amps. 4ch for your mains, and 2ch for your subs. I use Knukonceptz' cheapest RCA's, I like them better than the more expensive stuff even. I also find the stuff at Darvex and Monoprice to be just fine. Don't worry much about wire, really.

When you buy deadener, don't forget your roller, and get about 2-3 cans of spray adhesive for the ccf. Plus, that spray works great for carpet or trim panels if you make some later for your amps to hide them from view under the seat.. That would be pretty cool.

Remember before you cut up your a-pillar, listen via testing to different locations of the tweeters, and take notes. There may be something better or more optimal through testing. 

When you do your doors, pay attention to sealing them (like you've seen in the build logs), and take time to gasket the speaker off the door panel so you don't get errant sound waves bouncing around in the door. If the door skin needs to be trimmed a bit on the inside to fit everything properly, then go for it. Just think before you cut, and test fit everything with dry-run tests at times. Just like normal fab work.

Remember, this system will probably need some tuning when done, because there is a lot to tweak and perfect. But, that's the fun part as long as the install was done right.


----------



## slickone (Mar 6, 2005)

Hey Moonhills,
From a drywaller to another owning the same truck, I would like to give a little insight..I have been part of Image Dynamics Team for a few years and, personally, really like there stuff. I am in no way trying to sell you on anything, just expand your options.

If your truck is the same as mine, (99 quad with infinity system) you will have 6.5's in rear doors/6x9 in front doors and tweeters in the pillars(this is the plastic trim panel beside windshield.

The ctx line offers drop in replacement style speakers for our truck and though I haven't personally heard the line, I hear they are very good "budget" "entry level" style speakers. They can be had for a decent price, but depending on your budget, you may be able to do diy type install cheaper, but need a lot more to do it..crossovers..etc.

As for subs, They are known for making some of the best subs for mobile vehicles. The ID line is good, IDQ line is very musical and have good output, the idmax is a monster and can get insanely loud. The max would take some serious thought to get in our truck...so I would recommend a id or idq line 

JL audio makes or made stealthboxes for our truck...they have a dual 10 enclosure for under the rear seat and a single 12 enclosure that goes in the jumper in front bench under console..i'm not saying you have to buy this enclosure/s, just that you might check them out to give you ideas on building one
Dodge Ram Stealthbox by JL Audio
they are the 1st 2 boxes on the page

just thought I would give you other options...
Image Dynamics USA

check them out as well


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Buy this stuff, and buy it FAST:

KnuKonceptz - view products for category Knu Specials

IXOS wiring super damn cheap.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

how many should i get? how long? what a great freakin deal.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> how many should i get? how long? what a great freakin deal.


That depends on where those amps are going. If your test fits work under your seat, you could run short and do fine. Otherwise, best go long.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Im gonna do a mock up tomorrow and see where they fit. I'll let you know how it goes..


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I just want to say thanks for all your help guiding me through this process. Thanks.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok, well so far i have ordered the Precision Power 356CS speakers for the front, the ixos wiring and the Kenwood 4 channel amp. i should get that in about a week.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Sounds real good so far.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I had a slight holdback for a second. Turns out my wife is pregnant....
I need to get this installed quick before everything turns to diaper money....lol


----------



## ratram1 (Dec 27, 2009)

Subscribed


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Bummer. Sonic Deluxe called me back today and said they have discontinued the ppi 365cs. Im having a hard time finding them in the $159 range with free shipping. Any thoughts on a good alternative to that set that is just as good if not better at the same price?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Shop the classifieds.

Maybe the Image Dynamics lower end


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks fourthmeal. What do you think of the CTX65CS - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speaker System?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

ok, so i located a pair of the ppi's. Next question is whats better the ppi's or the id ctx65cs?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hmm, well that's up to you. The PPI's seem to have better midbass but are power hungry. You HAVE power, so maybe that's the best choice. Speakers are the most variable-dependent things we have in the system. You may like either one or you may hate both. You know how it goes. Go with your gut, and if you don't like them, don't be afraid to sell them and try again.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ding Dong......Who is it? Why its Fed Ex with your new Kenwood 4 channel power amp..............awesome.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I found a new set of ppi 356cs on ebay but i dont think it has the tweeter mounting hardware pieces that come with it or the speaker gaskets? Would you say thats not a very big deal? I guess beggars cant be choosers. It seems like most sets don't come with all that extra tweeter mounting hardware so im wondering how big of a deal it is not to have it?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Scratch that last post. The seller wrote me back and it is in the original box with all hardware included. Im gonna bite on it.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Well, it looks like i should be getting my PPI 356CS today.
Ive been reading online manuals and think i got a pretty good handle on what everything means. At some point while i was reading it just started becoming more clear. I do have one question though.

Its about running the tweeters Active or passive.

When running active, does this mean that i use 2 channels of my 4 channel amp for tweets and 2 channels for the mids? Bi amplified? Im still a little confused as to the layman's explanation of running active.
I'll put up some pics of my goodies later today.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

active means you need at least one channel of amplifier power per individual speaker. So yes, a 4ch amp is needed to run an active 2-way system up front. You can say it is bi-amped. But if you think about it, each speaker is still only getting one channel of power. So that's normal to me.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

WOULD THIS BE THE CORRECT DIAGRAM FOR ACTIVE?


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Hold on, thats was wrong.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok, would this be running active?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> I had a slight holdback for a second. Turns out my wife is pregnant....
> I need to get this installed quick before everything turns to diaper money....lol


This is exactly what I'm worried about. Wife is 9 weeks along. First one for us.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> Ok, would this be running active?



Sorta.

That's bi-amping. Running active means you are crossed over BEFORE amplification, so there is no passive box in the way.

so its -

Head unit -- crossover (which is Inside your amp in this situation), then < one side of channels to your tweeters, one side of channels to your woofers.

Simple, really. The kenwood instruction manual is really good about explaining it.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks Fourthmeal, that helps.

It seems were in the same boat. My lady is 8 weeks and 6 days. The race is on.......lol


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

My ppi's just showed up. they look bitchen.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Sorta.
> 
> That's bi-amping. Running active means you are crossed over BEFORE amplification, so there is no passive box in the way.
> 
> ...


Im looking at the kenwood manual right now.
So, essentially from the head unit the tweeters say will be plugged into the kenwood to the L and R in channel A and the woofer in the L and R of channel B. Then from there run my lines to the component crossovers and so forth.....Is that correct?


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

the component passive crossovers can be thrown out. As long as you have your settings right on the amp BEFORE trying to push power through your speakers you'll be fine.

That's the processor/crossover/amp's job.. to BE the crossover.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ahhhhhhh haaaaaaaaa. Its all very clear to me now. As i was thinking more about it, thats what i was starting to think but wasnt sure.
That was VERY helpful. Super clear now Fourthmeal. Super clear...

The diagram i have makes sense, its all making sense.

Thats gonna make for quite an easier install as well. 

Thanks man.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

You bet. Just make very sure your highpass crossover point is high enough before trying to play noises through the tweeter. At least 2.5k to start with. Too low, and the tweeter might fail by accident.

You're doing fine now, I reckon.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Hey Fourthmeal,

I have a couple questions about the wiring.

1. What's a good AWG 4 battery and ground wire?

2. What protective fuse would you recommend i use on the battery wire for this kenwood amp??

3. What would you recommend for crimping tools? Is there a good universal that will crimp 14 ga speaker wire as well as 4 ga battery wire or do i need to get seperate crimpers and where can i find a good crimper? or crimpers?

Im about to pull off a door panel today to make sure that my truck hasn't already been converted from 6x9 to 6.5. if i see that it hasnt, i will be ordering my adapters today.

Should be starting to install next week.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

In *Bold*


MoonHills said:


> Hey Fourthmeal,
> 
> I have a couple questions about the wiring.
> 
> ...


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks Fourthmeal.

So i took off the door panels to see what was underneath and maybe run some wires today however the grommet on the door i would be able to squeeze some wire through but the grommet on the body is rubber on the exterior and hard plastic on the inside and is basically a molex connector so i have no way to run new wires through it. Should i just drill a couple new holes in the body and door and install new grommets with a tube to protect the wires?

Also, i had Boston FX92 6x9 in the front doors. On the back they it labels 15-70 watts per ch @ 4 ohm. They didnt sound very good but im guessing its cause they were on a stock h/u with no amp. 

Anyway, new ones are gonna be much better im sure.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

MoonHills said:


> Thanks Fourthmeal.
> 
> So i took off the door panels to see what was underneath and maybe run some wires today however the grommet on the door i would be able to squeeze some wire through but the grommet on the body is rubber on the exterior and hard plastic on the inside and is basically a molex connector so i have no way to run new wires through it. Should i just drill a couple new holes in the body and door and install new grommets with a tube to protect the wires?
> 
> ...



Woah.

You need to break out your research fingers and google up how to do a molex properly. Also on the forums. You go THROUGH the molex. Doing it the other way is a sure fire way to ruin the car in most situations.

And yep, aftermarket speakers running 8-10 semi-clean watts of power isn't going to do a whole lot.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

LOL. Point taken. Ive been digging and im gonna take a stab at it tomorrow. Guess i was looking for an easier softer way. More like the easier softer way............To wreck my truck...ha ha


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I've decided to solder all my connections and heat shrink wrap them. I didn't get any time to run any wires today but Im hoping to in the next couple days.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Take a look at my Colorado truck build. 
Heatshrink and techflex.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Nice Job. Id like to take out the back seat of my truck and build a nice box like you did but i use the back a lot for work purpose otherwise i would.

Well, i got my wire harness adapter today and soldered and heat shrunk all my connections. Installed the head unit in the dash kit and tomorrow, im gonna put it in the truck. I still need to solder the power wire(which should be here tomorrow and i also need to solder the h/u ground to the factory ground wire. Once i do that, im just gonna plug it in and make sure i got all the connections nice and good before continuing on. Soldering went great. Look forward to moving forward.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Take pics dude! Others can learn from you.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

I am starting tomorrow. I got my camera out today before i started soldering and it was dead. I broke out the solder gun and fell into a zone...lol Cameras almost charged. Im gonna take plenty of pics. On the down side, it looks i need to wait a bit to put some subs in(bummer). So for now, i am going to focus on the Head Unit/Components and the amp and some deadener. Not as much deadener as i want but when more flow rolls in i will just pop the door panels and finisher off. Other than that this has been quite an experience. I fought with my head tooth and nail about just taking it in somewhere to have it installed and then i just thought that this "IS" DIYMOBLE and thats exactly how i intend to see it through. I didnt know anything when it came to car audio and with your help and advice and some research, the forums and builder logs, im starting to get a novice grasp at how this all gets put together. I'll put up some pics tomorrow and so forth. DIYMOBILE IS AWESOME.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

VIVA LA DIYMOBILE!!!


----------



## manslayer (Dec 22, 2009)

All of this has helped me out! You guys are great.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok, so i learned a good lesson today. Do not unhook your stereo and leave it un hooked all night...lol. I went out to my truck today and it was dead as a door nail. Im not exactly sure why that is? Maybe it had something to do with the ignition wire not hooked up that kept the battery draining? Thats my guess anyway. Well, before i got it up and running i decided to at least get my head unit in today.

Yesterday i received my wire harness adapter and dash kit and soldered my wires from the wire harness adapter to the Alpine harness. And today I installed it all. Heres some pics.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

These are the two aftermarket wire harnesses that i will be plugging into the stock harnesses.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

This is my Alpine wire harness.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

The blue wire is my remote wire which i will be connecting to the amp when i install it in the next week or so. Since i am not using it until then i just covered the end with a heat shrink tube. I will be cutting it off and using that wire when i install the amp.









The orange wire shows how i connected my wires. I stripped them down, put them in a x formation and wound them in a straight wind. Once i did that i soldered them together and put a heat shrink tube over the connections. Make sure you put the heat shrink tubes on first and slide them away as far as possible from the area you are soldering or else it might shrink on you. Once the solder was cold i slid the tube over the connection and used a heat gun to shrink the tube.







The last picture shows all my connections. One connection was taped cause the heat shrink tube shrunk on me while soldering and instead of cutting the wire and starting over, i just decided to tape that one. It was my first solder in my entire life so....... The rest went real easy. Just keep the heat away from the heat sleeve until your ready to shrink it down.


----------



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Looking good. But I recommend actually putting a thread in the audio builds side of the site for these things.


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Good idea. Ill post it over there....


----------



## MoonHills (Nov 27, 2009)

Crazy week. Its been pouring rain for the last 5 days plus i had work so i had to hold off on the rest of the install. Hopefully i get to it this coming week. Im also going to start a install log so i will post the link to that here as soon as i get it up and running. Just wanted to keep ya in the loop......


----------

