# I didn't know Audio Art was back in business!??!



## TwinBassDaddy

Well, upon searching the internet, I stumbled across this interesting website:

CATALOGO AUDIOART

It seems that either Audio Art is back in business, in Mexico. Or, someone bought the name and is now using it. Or maybe someone else has the real answer. 

Just thought it was a bit interesting.


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## WRX2010

Very interesting. I wonder if they bought the name because the scripted font for Audio Art looks exactly the same as what is on my amps.


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## subwoofery

Subscribed... Need more info  

Kelvin 

Edited: Just looked at the price of some items... NO THANKS!!!!! Way to expensive for a company that doesn't even have an english version of their website lol Mexico lol


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## envisionelec

WRX2010 said:


> Very interesting. I wonder if they bought the name because the scripted font for Audio Art looks exactly the same as what is on my amps.


The font is easily copied - it is Palace Script.


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## Notloudenuf

subwoofery said:


> Edited: Just looked at the price of some items... NO THANKS!!!!! Way to expensive for a company that doesn't even have an english version of their website lol Mexico lol


I think all of those prices are in Pesos so the $2495 for a 6.5" Reference component set is only like $201 American.
Pesos were trading at 12pesos = $1 yesterday


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## BowDown

Road trip to Mexico! Who's in?


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## [email protected]

Notloudenuf said:


> I think all of those prices are in Pesos so the $2495 for a 6.5" Reference component set is only like $201 American.
> Pesos were trading at 12pesos = $1 yesterday


Why would they put the USD sign before it then?


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## bmiller1

BeatsDownLow said:


> Why would they put the USD sign before it then?


Technically, the peso sign is the same as dollar with one vertical strike, dollar has two.


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## Notloudenuf

bmiller1 said:


> Technically, the peso sign is the same as dollar with one vertical strike, dollar has two.


Yea that's why.


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## FartinInTheTub

Looks like crap to me. I love old school audio Art and if this is well made gear then I'm very interested in checking it out. But Mexico? Do you really expect top shelf gear from Mexico? hmm... I'll stay objective and see what comes of this.


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## SoundJunkie

CRAP.....CRAP......CRAP......CRAP!!!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## [email protected]

bmiller1 said:


> Technically, the peso sign is the same as dollar with one vertical strike, dollar has two.


I never knew that.


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## bmiller1

BeatsDownLow said:


> I never knew that.


I got your back, Scott. Any other foreign currency questions, give me a shout.


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## truckerfte

SoundJunkie said:


> CRAP.....CRAP......CRAP......CRAP!!!
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Don't hold back...tell us how you really feel!

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk


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## EC66608

lol, i got excited at first, till the page opened up..


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## SoundJunkie

truckerfte said:


> Don't hold back...tell us how you really feel!
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk


Ohhhh, I'm sorry! 

WHAT A PAGE FULL OF ABSOLUTE **** !!! I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT NAME IS ON THAT **** !! IT WAS BAD ENOUGH WHEN THEY WENT TO KOREA BACK IN THE DAY!

****....****.....****.....****.....****

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## TwinBassDaddy

I had always thought that the name, as well as how it was written or stylized, were all part of the copyright or trademark of the company/owner. Either way, I really doubt they are even close to the original. 

I emailed the company asking for some history and company info. If anything is net back to me, I'll be sure to post it here as well.


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## envisionelec

SoundJunkie said:


> Ohhhh, I'm sorry!
> 
> WHAT A PAGE FULL OF ABSOLUTE **** !!! I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT NAME IS ON THAT **** !! IT WAS BAD ENOUGH WHEN THEY WENT TO KOREA BACK IN THE DAY!
> 
> ****....****.....****.....****.....****
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Hahahahaha.

:surprised:

Ha.


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## MACS

Damn I love the old AA's and consider it sacrilege to see the "not made in USA" knock offs.

I bet those south of the border AA's don't look like this inside .


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## thehatedguy

I didn't know they were ever made in the US. I remember the print ads from back in the day...I always thought they were some cheaper line.


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## SoundJunkie

thehatedguy said:


> I didn't know they were ever made in the US. I remember the print ads from back in the day...I always thought they were some cheaper line.


Cheaper? No way! Hand soldered boards, they took pride in their work like alot of other small companies who were forced to close their doors when the big stores started mass selling Chinese crap!

I still run a quad of these amps in my daily/comp truck!

View attachment 29716


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## Aaron Clinton

*You boy's like Mexico?*


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## TwinBassDaddy

I've e-mailed them 3 times now....maybe one of our members fluent in Spanish could send an e-mail, asking for some company history and background. Maybe you'll get a response.


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## envisionelec

SoundJunkie said:


> Cheaper? No way! Hand soldered boards, they took pride in their work like alot of other small companies who were forced to close their doors when the big stores started mass selling Chinese crap!
> 
> I still run a quad of these amps in my daily/comp truck!
> 
> View attachment 29716
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk



I can't imagine them being hand soldered. Wave soldered, yes. What tells you they are hand soldered?


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## GlasSman

thehatedguy said:


> I didn't know they were ever made in the US. I remember the print ads from back in the day...I always thought they were some cheaper line.



NO way....those amps were sweet .

Just as good as anything from Soundstream, PPI, Orion, Phoenix Gold.....and Made in the USA.

I remember working at a restaurant back in 1996 and one of the guys I worked with surprisingly had one of the larger A series amps....I wanted it but he wouldn't sell it.

He got it from a friend for dirt cheap any neither of them knew it was such a high quality amp due to the fact that the original owner was a tool bag and didn't know how to install an amp.....he though it sucked and sold it to his friend for a few bucks.


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## deeppinkdiver

I'm trying to grab a couple 100HC'S and a 50HC from 3 diffrent guys on craigs. They all 3 know what they have. I have a 200.2 collecting dust in original box


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## darkhart

Interesting......


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## The Baron Groog

Audio - COMPONENTES - COMPONENTE PRO 62CSP basically the same as XT6CII « InPhase Audio same basket, cone slightly different, crossover outwardly different, tweeter looks different. Made in China-for sure!


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## Schizm

Aaron Clinton said:


> *You boy's like Mexico?*


Greatest comedy evar!


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## Got-Four-Eights

Wow wtf.. just came across this on accident.. so what is the real history behind Audio Art.. when did they go to Korea and what happened with the company or the ppl who started and ran it etc..

EDIT: Just for giggles I called thier Tech number I found on an old manual... It's a live chat line...


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## TrickyRicky

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Wow wtf.. just came across this on accident.. so what is the real history behind Audio Art.. when did they go to Korea and what happened with the company or the ppl who started and ran it etc..
> 
> EDIT: Just for giggles I called thier Tech number I found on an old manual... It's a live chat line...


I sent the new AudioArt company an email in spanish, below is the emails.

Me "I would like to know where I could purchase these AudioArt products, am in USA. Is this the same AudioArt as when it was made in USA?"

Them "Ricardo:

*Unfortunately there is no distributor in USA and this is not the old Audio Art, this is better.*
Regards

Alejandro Docampo
Scott Electronics
Nextel: 01-33-3700-8511
ID: 62*273800*1
Oficina: 01-378-782-3648

Por favor confirmar de recibido.
Gracias"

Holy ****, lol better uh? :laugh:


Hey stop being stingy and post the old tech line number, lol.


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## Got-Four-Eights

HAHAHH... this is better my azz...


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## TrickyRicky

I would ask for internal pics and info just to see what crappy cheap components their using. Am sure their made in China and distributed in Mexico. 

I just got my hands on three AudioArts (240.4 and two 140.4) thats too many channels so I might just bridge them and have 6 channels.

Anyone know where I can find plugs for them, because I would hate to cut them off just to run straight wire (which I dont want to do because it looks ghetto) I would rather modified them and add a terminal block for the speakers.


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## Got-Four-Eights

Good luck on the plugs.. maybe there is something generic out there you can use that will work. I am trying to score another 200MS and that is hard enough.. I can't imagine plugs being easy.


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## David Yeh

Hi
I am David Yeh,
The original design Engineer of 100HC and 50 HC etc.
Maybe can help something for somebody regarding old school amplifier of Audio Art.


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## oilman

Subscribed


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## duane007

In 2000 I was given a white series 200.2xe that didn't work. I called the support line to ask what I needed to do to get it fixed. The man on the phone was very helpful and friendly. He told me to simply mail the amp in with $40. I did a a few weeks later recieved the amp back in working condition. Every fastener on the amp had been replaced with new...

While on the phone with the tech, I remember him talking about the problems they were having with the contractor that did the chrome plating on the name badges for the HC models.


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## duane007

David Yeh said:


> Hi
> I am David Yeh,
> The original design Engineer of 100HC and 50 HC etc.
> Maybe can help something for somebody regarding old school amplifier of Audio Art.


If you are the original engineer, are the Davidart amplifiers similar to the old audio art?


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## TrickyRicky

David Yeh said:


> Hi
> I am David Yeh,
> The original design Engineer of 100HC and 50 HC etc.
> Maybe can help something for somebody regarding old school amplifier of Audio Art.


Sweet, do you know who designed the X,XE series (70.2X,140.4X,240.4X or XE)?




I dont know much about AudioArt besides that they have never failed me.


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## David Yeh

duane007 said:


> If you are the original engineer, are the Davidart amplifiers similar to the old audio art?


All the AudioArt car amplifiers was design by our engineer team before 1997.
George worked for all amplifiers acoustic fine tuning.
Teady designed 70.2, 140.4, 200.2, 260.6 and 340.6 etc.
David me designed A120, A240, 120.2, 240.4, 400.2, 50HC, 100HC etc.

George and me still work together until now.
We pay attention to add many high cost components for improved amplifiers performance. Of course, all Davidart car amplifiers sound quality better than Audioart.

You can see the AudioArt 100HC was printing George and my name on PCB if you have this one amplifier.
And we also show our name together in website. 

The AudioArt in Mexico not our design engineer team.
I also talk with Mr. Simon Sun for this matter, but he said that he was no sell his brand AudioArt to any people to do amplifier business.
Mr. Simon Sun was my boss when I worked in AudioArt before 1997.
Now, we still support both side when we meet some problems.

David Yeh


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## TrickyRicky

David Yeh said:


> All the AudioArt car amplifiers was design by our engineer team before 1997.
> George worked for all amplifiers acoustic fine tuning.
> Teady designed 70.2, 140.4, 200.2, 260.6 and 340.6 etc.
> David me designed A120, A240, 120.2, 240.4, 400.2, 50HC, 100HC etc.
> 
> George and me still work together until now.
> We pay attention to add many high cost components for improved amplifiers performance. Of course, all Davidart car amplifiers sound quality better than Audioart.
> 
> You can see the AudioArt 100HC was printing George and my name on PCB if you have this one amplifier.
> And we also show our name together in website.
> 
> The AudioArt in Mexico not our design engineer team.
> I also talk with Mr. Simon Sun for this matter, but he said that he was no sell his brand AudioArt to any people to do amplifier business.
> Mr. Simon Sun was my boss when I worked in AudioArt before 1997.
> Now, we still support both side when we meet some problems.
> 
> David Yeh


Ahh another "amp god" drops by and shims in with some very nice info. Thanks for taking time and letting us "audioart fans" know more about the company.

Where can we find info on your new designs (DavidArt)?


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## Syn--

Oh wow, I never imagined I would be lucky enough to see an old audio art engineer talking on these forums! 

Any chance you can direct us to a place that made the original molex plugs found on the 6 channel amps? I lost one in my travels and I'm looking to use my old amp and don't really want to modify it in any way!

I'll definitely be in touch about your other newer offerings soon!


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## TrickyRicky

Am interested in the DavidArt amps, they look very identical to the old original AudioArts (even same boards?). I know the "SM" has the "new" surface mount technology and allows for smaller boards, but the others look very identical to the old AA's.

Since you are one of the original design engineers I know your new ones should be just as good (or better for sure) as the originals AA's.

Any authorized dealers around? Prices?


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## David Yeh

Syn-- said:


> Oh wow, I never imagined I would be lucky enough to see an old audio art engineer talking on these forums!
> 
> Any chance you can direct us to a place that made the original molex plugs found on the 6 channel amps? I lost one in my travels and I'm looking to use my old amp and don't really want to modify it in any way!
> 
> I'll definitely be in touch about your other newer offerings soon!


Can you measured that dimension of this Molex plug and send to me by email?
Because I have no any 70.2 - 340.6 sample on hand, these models was 17 years ago design that I have no any record for Molex part number.
I need it dimension then try to find its drawing for know how to next step.

David


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## envisionelec

The plugs are neither Molex nor Amp (Tyco/TE connectivity) as the shape and size would lead one to believe. Alpine used them, too. The kicker is that they are 4 pin, dual row. I would also like to know what they are.

Investigating further, I believe it is a 6.20mm pitch connector. I found them at morethanall connector and hisetec.com as part numbers L-PE-2X02 and H6201-2*2, respectively. They are not low quantity purchases. 

http://www.hisetec.com/PDF/6201/H6201.pdf


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## envisionelec

And these amps ARE well designed. I only wish they weren't being hoarded, but rather used and enjoyed.


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## envisionelec

Here is an excerpt I found written by David about the demise/conversion of Audio Art. Please understand this is a machine-translation. I hope David does not mind:
_
"To tell the truth AudioArt brand part, do not make money, because the R&D engineering department and the advertising and marketing cost too much this time sent home business does not do truth.

AudioArt is not closed, but converted from its own brand to the OEM business type to go. 

But these American and European brands is to produce low-cost AMP, in order to increase profits must go to the mainland;

But to the mainland to design low-cost AMP production is not David my personal wish, (I just want to stay in Taiwan to design better AMP) so I had to choose to leave AudioArt. 

I live on their own in the end of 1997, began to design a series of high-grade AMP sold to Japanese and European brands.
And AudioArt OEM business as do others, but also only choose to give up their brand AudioArt."

_*http://tinyurl.com/6r6q4yk*


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## TrickyRicky

envisionelec said:


> Here is an excerpt I found written by David about the demise/conversion of Audio Art. Please understand this is a machine-translation. I hope David does not mind:
> _
> "To tell the truth AudioArt brand part, do not make money, because the R&D engineering department and the advertising and marketing cost too much this time sent home business does not do truth.
> 
> AudioArt is not closed, but converted from its own brand to the OEM business type to go.
> 
> But these American and European brands is to produce low-cost AMP, in order to increase profits must go to the mainland;
> 
> But to the mainland to design low-cost AMP production is not David my personal wish, (I just want to stay in Taiwan to design better AMP) so I had to choose to leave AudioArt.
> 
> I live on their own in the end of 1997, began to design a series of high-grade AMP sold to Japanese and European brands.
> And AudioArt OEM business as do others, but also only choose to give up their brand AudioArt."
> 
> _*http://tinyurl.com/6r6q4yk*


Thats what I found also. Funny part is that there is another post that states the "HC" series are "TAIWANESE" I guess sometimes is better to be designed in Asia and then made in America.

Sorta how now most companies/manufactures claim "Designed and Engineered in USA" then in very small font "Made in China".


As for the AudioArts HC being Taiwanese, that still wouldn't change my opinion on how good they are, and I bet no one else would too.


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## Got-Four-Eights

I got a 50HC in my closet I am about to put to work soon hopefully.


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## envisionelec

TrickyRicky said:


> Thats what I found also. Funny part is that there is another post that states the "HC" series are "TAIWANESE" I guess sometimes is better to be designed in Asia and then made in America.
> 
> Sorta how now most companies/manufactures claim "Designed and Engineered in USA" then in very small font "Made in China".
> 
> 
> As for the AudioArts HC being Taiwanese, that still wouldn't change my opinion on how good they are, and I bet no one else would too.


Yup. It sort of blows conventional wisdom out of the water. Audio Art was off the radar in the Midwest. My only contact was with just a few repairs that came in. They left me with an impression that few amplifiers did. Of course, it's hard to explain good sound and we didn't have measurement gear. The test speakers weren't even very good, but after hearing hundreds of amplifiers through them, I could identify a good performing amp over something "standard".

I noticed another post where David pronounces the desire to produce a kit of sorts for car amplifiers. I am extremely interested in this as a designer.


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## Got-Four-Eights

On a side note.. if any of you clowns are hoarding white 400.2 amps... share the love!  I really need one.


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## envisionelec

I just picked up a minty 50HC. I was totally bitten by the AA bug. 

And yes, I will USE IT.


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## Got-Four-Eights

envisionelec said:


> I just picked up a minty 50HC. I was totally bitten by the AA bug.
> 
> And yes, I will USE IT.


Dang.. more competition! lol.. 75$ is a killer deal for a 50HC.. paid $150 for mine in pretty good shape but not perfect. What shape is yours in? I have a 400.2 but I have to get an RCA repaired.. if I wiggle the rca at hte amp it cuts on and off.. its not the cable  I am hoping easy fix.


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## Got-Four-Eights

I found this.. has some gut pics of hte ones that actually look like the older Audio art on the outside.... insides are different of course...

POWER DAVID ART REFERENCE 4 CHANNEL


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## duane007

David,
How can I get my hands on one of those Davidart amps?


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## TrickyRicky

duane007 said:


> David,
> How can I get my hands on one of those Davidart amps?


Am sure a lot of folks here would like to have one, maybe even start a group buy. I sure as hell am in it, lol, even though I've spent my allowance on other stuff.


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## Got-Four-Eights

I would be curious as well... id love to see some bench tests on these things.


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## David Yeh

duane007 said:


> David,
> How can I get my hands on one of those Davidart amps?


Dear all fans,
First I am said sorry! 
1. We are no any finished SM and DA amplifier in stock, they are long time ago design.
2. We start to moving our company to country side, really no so much time for reply all AudioArt fans inquired right now, I hope we can reset our laboratory within 7days, then reply all fans inquired. 
3. Here a Taiwan shop they sold our amplifier already long time, they had three models are my design but under their brand "EPOCH", you can visit their website to buy if you really need them in short time.
EP-2662 ¿³¸Î¨T¨®*µÅT -- ¡iEPOCH¡j¤GÁn¹DÂX¤j¾÷EP-2662¡¯AMPÂX¤j¾¹
EP-4660 ¿³¸Î¨T¨®*µÅT -- ¡iEPOCH¡j¥|Án¹D¨®¥ÎÂX¤j¾÷EP4660¡¯AMPÂX¤j¾¹4660
E-16 ¿³¸Î¨T¨®*µÅT -- ¡iEPOCH¡j¤GÁn¹DAÃþ¨®¥ÎÂX¤j¾÷E-16¡¯AMPÂX¤j¾¹E16
The E-16 power amplifier designed was basic under 100HC but one ohm stable, with many x-over and bass EQ features, All below model also basic 100HC designed: da15, da18 and E-16(Taiwan models name), they are also can be for SPL competition. The da15gold was top grade for SQ competition, our Sweden customer top series amplifiers was basic this sound grade with our total solution. 

Hope I can come back this forum talk more infomation for you soon!

David


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## Got-Four-Eights

Some more David ARt gut pics..

_car amplifiers2_d


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## The Baron Groog

car amplifiers_a

Some audio art in there^

EDIT: lol-didn't realise the post above linked to the same site!


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## TrickyRicky

The Baron Groog said:


> car amplifiers_a
> 
> Some audio art in there^
> 
> EDIT: lol-didn't realise the post above linked to the same site!


Damn you guys found the holy grail of gut pics. Love it.


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## req

What an awesome thread. I had a sweet 4 channel audio art amp that was baby blue anodized aluminum and about 6 inches square. It was bad ass because of it's age and size. It sounded great. But I sold it to a friend in an install and I wish I had not.


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## tyroneshoes

req said:


> What an awesome thread. I had a sweet 4 channel audio art amp that was baby blue anodized aluminum and about 6 inches square. It was bad ass because of it's age and size. It sounded great. But I sold it to a friend in an install and I wish I had not.


I have two of them for sale


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## WRX2010

TrickyRicky said:


> Damn you guys found the holy grail of gut pics. Love it.


wow, no kidding. Hope the site does not spur more amp purchases. :laugh:


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## envisionelec

I powered up my 50HC for the first time last night. Absolutely spotless sound. I plan to run tests on it (THD, FR plot) when I get a chance.


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## TrickyRicky

envisionelec said:


> I powered up my 50HC for the first time last night. Absolutely spotless sound. I plan to run tests on it (THD, FR plot) when I get a chance.


These amps are so clean they dont need a THD test. My 240.4XE puts out 175watts when bridged before clipping (thats 350watts not 240watts).

Thats how amplifiers should be made and labeled. But post test results here when you get them, am interested in the results.


Am thinking about using my 240.4XE on my rear doors (woofers) and then bridge the last two channels to a Toby Sheriff subwoofer. That would be sweet, but kinda scared of what it might do to my front stage.


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## Got-Four-Eights

Since we got some Audio Art guys in here i need your help! I am restoring a 400.2 and need to know how to get the dang end plates off on the power/speaker side. The RCA side is simple.. I got as far as getting the blocks loose and pushign the metal taps up from the bottom side so it releases the black plastic block but I cant get the metal pieces to pull through.. I am not even sure it can. Someone HELP!


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## duane007

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Since we got some Audio Art guys in here i need your help! I am restoring a 400.2 and need to know how to get the dang end plates off on the power/speaker side. The RCA side is simple.. I got as far as getting the blocks loose and pushign the metal taps up from the bottom side so it releases the black plastic block but I cant get the metal pieces to pull through.. I am not even sure it can. Someone HELP!



Just put a wtb ad out and buy a new one.....











Oh... I see you've tried that 800 times

You will probably have to unsolder the tabs from the pcb. While your at it. Look for replacements...(and tell me where you bought them)


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## MACS

A VERY big welcome to you David Yeh!! I own many of your amps and have some of your old magazine advertisements if you need any pictures. 
My personal favorite amps are the 200.2T, 200.2RXT, 100MS, 200MS, 400.2, 50HC, and 100HC.

Here is an AA that was made before quite a few Diyma members were born and it's still going strong . I believe the A-3004 were made around 1989 and the specs I have are 4x25 watts. It is a very stout amp and has no problem pounding my test bench studio monitors. Sorry about the dust. Haven't gotten around to cleaning and touching this one up yet.


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## Got-Four-Eights

duane007 said:


> Just put a wtb ad out and buy a new one.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh... I see you've tried that 800 times
> 
> You will probably have to unsolder the tabs from the pcb. While your at it. Look for replacements...(and tell me where you bought them)


haha .. I was about to say.. ive been hunting the great white 400.2 for months.. i settled for a clean brown one I am already transforming into a sexy white one.


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## Got-Four-Eights

MACS said:


> A VERY big welcome to you David Yeh!! I own many of your amps and have some of your old magazine advertisements if you need any pictures.
> My personal favorite amps are the 200.2T, 200.2RXT, 100MS, 200MS, 400.2, 50HC, and 100HC.
> 
> Here is an AA that was made before quite a few Diyma members were born and it's still going strong . I believe the A-3004 were made around 1989 and the specs I have are 4x75 watts. It is a very stout amp and has no problem pounding my test bench studio monitors. Sorry about the dust. Haven't gotten around to cleaning and touching this on up yet.


MACS.. I will always be jealous of your collection. I am finally up to 7 of my own. 2x 400.2, 3x 200ms, 1x50hc, and 1x120.2. A few of these were almost new in box when I got them. One of them was from a shop where it set in a glass case for many years. I remembered seeing it probably 3 years ago and returned to buy it.. it was still there  These are the last amps ill ever own. Love them!


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## TrickyRicky

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Since we got some Audio Art guys in here i need your help! I am restoring a 400.2 and need to know how to get the dang end plates off on the power/speaker side. The RCA side is simple.. I got as far as getting the blocks loose and pushign the metal taps up from the bottom side so it releases the black plastic block but I cant get the metal pieces to pull through.. I am not even sure it can. Someone HELP!


I experimented on one of mine to see if I could be any help. Turns out once you lift the terminal taps up the neck is smaller than the tab so it will NOT slide through like one would expect. Am guessing your trying to re-do the side panels also???? If not why take them off?

If you are re-doing the side panels, then you will have to remove the circuit board out and remove the solder on the power/speaker terminals in order to remove those type of terminal blocks. Once board is remove and terminals, you can take the heatsink/s and easily re-finish them without worring about the board getting damage or paint on it. This is the only way to do it, I've never heard of anyone re-finishing their heatsinks with board still attached.

Let me/us know how it turns out.


PS: Am going to install my 240.4XE to power up a pair of small 10" woofers (so it will have to be bridge, each channel 4-ohms). I know I know... why put such a nice amp on subs, well thats really the power I need and two sub amps are being repaired right now.* SO THIS IS MY QUESTION to ya'll AA pros*, when bridging the amplifier it has the "bridge switch" and by the input RCA's (four of them since this is a 4-channel amp) it stated right below it "USE RIGHT INPUT WHEN BRIDGE" so am assuming I should only use the right inputs on both front and rear section without connecting the lefts????

Also am assuming (lol, and I dont like doing that) that am going to be using the right channels positive as my negative??? Or is the LEFT inputs inverted??? Am confused and what to make sure I have it right before installing it.


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## envisionelec

TrickyRicky said:


> SO THIS IS MY QUESTION to ya'll AA pros, when bridging the amplifier it has the "bridge switch" and by the input RCA's (four of them since this is a 4-channel amp) it stated right below it "USE RIGHT INPUT WHEN BRIDGE" so am assuming *I should only use the right inputs on both front and rear section without connecting the lefts*????


Yes.


----------



## David Yeh

MACS said:


> A VERY big welcome to you David Yeh!! I own many of your amps and have some of your old magazine advertisements if you need any pictures.
> My personal favorite amps are the 200.2T, 200.2RXT, 100MS, 200MS, 400.2, 50HC, and 100HC.
> 
> Here is an AA that was made before quite a few Diyma members were born and it's still going strong . I believe the A-3004 were made around 1989 and the specs I have are 4x25 watts. It is a very stout amp and has no problem pounding my test bench studio monitors. Sorry about the dust. Haven't gotten around to cleaning and touching this one up yet.


_It long time no post any info in this forum since we busy in moving our laboratory to another place.

MACS: Thanks a lot for you love my design!!! 
you are lucky man! since collected those AA amplifiers was no easy.
I only keep each of 100HC and A-120.
one question: what's magazine of your collection? do you have Germany Aotohifi before 1996? _

_David Yeh_


----------



## MACS

David, Check your private messages.


----------



## David Yeh

envisionelec said:


> Yup. It sort of blows conventional wisdom out of the water. Audio Art was off the radar in the Midwest. My only contact was with just a few repairs that came in. They left me with an impression that few amplifiers did. Of course, it's hard to explain good sound and we didn't have measurement gear. The test speakers weren't even very good, but after hearing hundreds of amplifiers through them, I could identify a good performing amp over something "standard".
> 
> I noticed another post where David pronounces the desire to produce a kit of sorts for car amplifiers. I am extremely interested in this as a designer.


_Hi envisionelec,

Thanks for your translate AudioArt past situation from my blog.

Regarding my car amplifier kit planning:
Cause 1, Many Taiwan consumer want to buy amplifier direct from me, They knew something about me with AudioArt and some famous brand relation, but I can't help this matter for them because distributor and dealer in Taiwan.
Cause 2, They only have low budget about 300-400USD during this bad economic and they want a stable amplifier, since almost consumer don't know which brand sound quality and reliability are good. 
Cause 3, car amplifier kit could match above demand, and consumer can upgrade sound color or quality via change some ICs and capacitors if they have solder iron ability. 

The initial concept:
1, Dual mono design.
2, Inputs: XLR balance, RCA and High level.
3. First model will be 50W x2 @4 ohm / 100W x2 @2 ohm

Any suggestion for features please let me know.
(This kit maybe for USA area, if AA fans also like it.)
Thanks!

David Yeh _


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

MACS said:


> David, Check your private messages.


MAC, shot you a PM about something else.. let me know if you got it!


----------



## duane007

David Yeh said:


> _Hi envisionelec,
> 
> Thanks for your translate AudioArt past situation from my blog.
> 
> Regarding my car amplifier kit planning:
> Cause 1, Many Taiwan consumer want to buy amplifier direct from me, They knew something about me with AudioArt and some famous brand relation, but I can't help this matter for them because distributor and dealer in Taiwan.
> Cause 2, They only have low budget about 300-400USD during this bad economic and they want a stable amplifier, since almost consumer don't know which brand sound quality and reliability are good.
> Cause 3, car amplifier kit could match above demand, and consumer can upgrade sound color or quality via change some ICs and capacitors if they have solder iron ability.
> 
> The initial concept:
> 1, Dual mono design.
> 2, Inputs: XLR balance, RCA and High level.
> 3. First model will be 50W x2 @4 ohm / 100W x2 @2 ohm
> 
> Any suggestion for features please let me know.
> (This kit maybe for USA area, if AA fans also like it.)
> Thanks!
> 
> David Yeh _


David,
First I must say this idea sounds pretty exciting.

I want to offer my input:
50x2 would not be powerful enough for the American DIY market unless it is 1/2 ohm stable. 

100x2 at 4 ohm would probably need to be minimum to attract someone who is willing and able to assemble an amp. 150x2 or 200x2 would be edeal.


----------



## TrickyRicky

duane007 said:


> David,
> First I must say this idea sounds pretty exciting.
> 
> I want to offer my input:
> 50x2 would not be powerful enough for the American DIY market unless it is 1/2 ohm stable.
> 
> 100x2 at 4 ohm would probably need to be minimum to attract someone who is willing and able to assemble an amp. 150x2 or 200x2 would be edeal.


True but seeing as its a DIY kit, something simple like a 50x2 would be the best way to go (especially when starting). As he mentioned there will be upgrades such as capacitors/op amps (not for more power just for different SQ). Now I know it will be hard to tell and differ SQ when making little changes but hey there's some out there that can or atleast claim.

But yes a 100x2 at 4ohm would be the best for a market here in USA. But the 50x2 would be great for tweeters or small drivers. But can't wait to see the kits and the components it will use.


----------



## dodgerblue

This would be fantastic to see avaliable .I would love the oppo to build a quality amplifier . The process itself is what I enjoy most .....

Get home after a long day of work , turn the Dodgers game on , fire up the Hakko , pop a few cold ones and apply flux/solder at my leisure = paradise .
Lol . 

As mentioned a 100wpc would be more desirable on paper but a conservative 50wpch dual mono can be built stout and may bridge the gap most 50wpch amps would not .

A few thoughts ..

I don't think balanced Xlr will be used widely enough to offset the cost .

No crossovers 

Variable Phase pot for each channel - could be a useful tool not commonly seen on the market .


Low imp. stability would be desirable of coarse as mentioned by Envision .

I'm excited just thinking about it , lol


----------



## envisionelec

David Yeh said:


> _Hi envisionelec,
> 
> Thanks for your translate AudioArt past situation from my blog.
> 
> Regarding my car amplifier kit planning:
> Cause 1, Many Taiwan consumer want to buy amplifier direct from me, They knew something about me with AudioArt and some famous brand relation, but I can't help this matter for them because distributor and dealer in Taiwan.
> Cause 2, They only have low budget about 300-400USD during this bad economic and they want a stable amplifier, since almost consumer don't know which brand sound quality and reliability are good.
> Cause 3, car amplifier kit could match above demand, and consumer can upgrade sound color or quality via change some ICs and capacitors if they have solder iron ability.
> 
> The initial concept:
> 1, Dual mono design.
> 2, Inputs: XLR balance, RCA and High level.
> 3. First model will be 50W x2 @4 ohm / 100W x2 @2 ohm
> 
> Any suggestion for features please let me know.
> (This kit maybe for USA area, if AA fans also like it.)
> Thanks!
> 
> David Yeh _


In case you need a contact in the USA...

Here is some of my work: 12V to 350V power supply for the ultra high-end home audio users that have SLA (sealed lead acid) battery-powered tube systems.


----------



## David Yeh

_Thans for many idea post from Duane007, TrickyRicky, Dodgerblue and Envisionelec.
I will think some configuration for cover any possibility then reply again.

David_


----------



## TwinBassDaddy

I would have to believe that MANY of us on this and a few other forums would love to see this actually come to light. And from what I've observed and read, there are some fantastically brilliant and highly knowledgeable members that would (hopefully) offer some assistance to the rest of us serfs who would be trying to DIY one for ourselves. 

I just hope that pricing would fall in line to keep it attractive and competitive in this market.


----------



## tyroneshoes

David,

Glad to see you here. Can you tell me what the difference is between the blue audio arts (2200,2400) in this pic and the typical design 200.2 with the metal centerpiece?


----------



## TrickyRicky

According to those pics the ones you have "blue" have the T-287/218 transistor which is very nice, it has four on each channel (total of 8). I myself cannot tell you exactly which one it is because I dont have one of those nor have taken one apart before (this is the funny part- I never EVER had to when it came to AudioArts, they never failed).

Now I dont have a 200.2 but I do have a 240.4 and that one has a total of 16 transistors but their the smaller package T-220. That being said am pretty sure their both the very simliar, but thats just what I think and based on just what I believe without having both amplifier on hand.


----------



## envisionelec

TrickyRicky said:


> According to those pics the ones you have "blue" have the T-287/218 transistor which is very nice, it has four on each channel (total of 8). I myself cannot tell you exactly which one it is because I dont have one of those nor have taken one apart before (this is the funny part- I never EVER had to when it came to AudioArts, they never failed).
> 
> Now I dont have a 200.2 but I do have a 240.4 and that one has a total of 16 transistors but their the smaller package T-220. That being said am pretty sure their both the very simliar, but thats just what I think and based on just what I believe without having both amplifier on hand.


What is a T-287/218 transistor? 

Did you mean TO-247/TO-218?

They aren't the same thing. TO-247 is huge (2SA5200). TO-218 is what TIP35/36C is. TO-3P (which is what is in the "blue" version) is similar in width (but not thickness) to TO-218.

I would put a few dollars on the outputs being Sanken. Case size isn't important; type is.


----------



## Syn--

tyroneshoes said:


> David,
> 
> Glad to see you here. Can you tell me what the difference is between the blue audio arts (2200,2400) in this pic and the typical design 200.2 with the metal centerpiece?


Do you mean the specs or internals/design? I have an old Audio Art pamphlet from the mid-to-late 90s that has that... I suspect you mean the internals/design.


----------



## TrickyRicky

envisionelec said:


> What is a T-287/218 transistor?
> 
> *Did you mean TO-247/TO-218?*
> 
> They aren't the same thing. TO-247 is huge (2SA5200). TO-218 is what TIP35/36C is. TO-3P (which is what is in the "blue" version) is similar in width (but not thickness) to TO-218.
> 
> *I would put a few dollars on the outputs being Sanken. Case size isn't important; type is.*



Yes correct, sorry I've had a few drinks and did a typo. Anyways your correct about the type which is actually being used. But I dont have schematics nor have I taken one apart so I dont know exactly what type of transistor it has. Now I prefer amplifier with the bigger output transistors, but then again all the old school amplifiers I've had, had big output transistors and never failed me.



Syn-- said:


> Do you mean the specs or internals/design? I have an old Audio Art pamphlet from the mid-to-late 90s that has that... I suspect you mean the internals/design.


Am pretty sure his reffering to both.


----------



## envisionelec

TrickyRicky said:


> Yes correct, sorry I've had a few drinks and did a typo.


No excuse. I've been drinking as well.


----------



## Syn--

The blue line was their "high output" line, the 200.2 (non-T model) was their standard line. I can't post images, so until I either post this to my website or get enough posts to do so, here are the specs of all 3 according to Audio Art literature.

Everything is at 12.5V, leaving out crossover and bass eq info (let me know if you want that too).

2200 HO:

Output Power:
Stereo (@4 Ohms): 50W x 2
Stereo (@2 Ohms): 100W x 2
Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 200W
THD: 0.05%
Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
Signal to noise: 104db
Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
Stereo Seperation: 60 db
Idling Current: 0.4 A
Rated Current: 14 A
Size (Inches W x H x D): 8 7/8" x 2 1/4" x 7 5/8"


2400 HO:

Output Power:
Stereo (@4 Ohms): 100W x 2
Stereo (@2 Ohms): 200W x 2
Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 400W
THD: 0.05%
Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
Signal to noise: 100db
Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
Stereo Seperation: 60 db
Idling Current: 0.5 A
Rated Current: 24 A
Size (Inches W x H x D): 12 7/8" x 2 1/4" x 7 5/8"


200.2,X,XE:

Output Power:
Stereo (@4 Ohms): 100W x 2
Stereo (@2 Ohms): 170W x 2
Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 375W
THD: 0.05%
Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
Signal to noise: 100db
Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
Stereo Seperation: 60 db
Idling Current: 0.5 A
Size (Inches W x H x D): 12 1/4" x 2 1/2" x 7 1/4"


----------



## tyroneshoes

Syn-- said:


> The blue line was their "high output" line, the 200.2 (non-T model) was their standard line. I can't post images, so until I either post this to my website or get enough posts to do so, here are the specs of all 3 according to Audio Art literature.


Thanks for all the info/specs. But Im curious what differentiates the "high output" from the standard.


----------



## Ampman

Syn-- said:


> The blue line was their "high output" line, the 200.2 (non-T model) was their standard line. I can't post images, so until I either post this to my website or get enough posts to do so, here are the specs of all 3 according to Audio Art literature.
> 
> Everything is at 12.5V, leaving out crossover and bass eq info (let me know if you want that too).
> 
> 2200 HO:
> 
> Output Power:
> Stereo (@4 Ohms): 50W x 2
> Stereo (@2 Ohms): 100W x 2
> Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 200W
> THD: 0.05%
> Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
> Signal to noise: 104db
> Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
> Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
> Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
> Stereo Seperation: 60 db
> Idling Current: 0.4 A
> Rated Current: 14 A
> Size (Inches W x H x D): 8 7/8" x 2 1/4" x 7 5/8"
> 
> 
> 2400 HO:
> 
> Output Power:
> Stereo (@4 Ohms): 100W x 2
> Stereo (@2 Ohms): 200W x 2
> Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 400W
> THD: 0.05%
> Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
> Signal to noise: 100db
> Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
> Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
> Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
> Stereo Seperation: 60 db
> Idling Current: 0.5 A
> Rated Current: 24 A
> Size (Inches W x H x D): 12 7/8" x 2 1/4" x 7 5/8"
> 
> 
> 200.2,X,XE:
> 
> Output Power:
> Stereo (@4 Ohms): 100W x 2
> Stereo (@2 Ohms): 170W x 2
> Bridged (@ 4 Ohms): 375W
> THD: 0.05%
> Frequency Response: 2hz - 100Khz
> Signal to noise: 100db
> Input Sensitivity: 200mV - 1V
> Output Impedance: 2-8 Ohms
> Voltage Required: DC 11-16V
> Stereo Seperation: 60 db
> Idling Current: 0.5 A
> Size (Inches W x H x D): 12 1/4" x 2 1/2" x 7 1/4"


I've got a 2100 HO I was wondering what the output is on mine it's clear now it has to be 25 watts per ch into a 4 ohm load thanks for posting this


----------



## MACS

Maybe this will help you guys out. Sorry about the quality, but this was the way it was sent to me.


----------



## David Yeh

tyroneshoes said:


> Thanks for all the info/specs. But Im curious what differentiates the "high output" from the standard.


_Blue version - they are same of inside PCB layout, components and schematic compare old 70.2, 120.2, 200.2, 240.4. They only change models name and outlook color - when AudioArt was change brand logo to new type (old type was Palace Script font). I remember that standard series change to HO name, other high current series no change.

The 200.2 and 2400HO output transistors was TOSHIBA 2SD718 and 2SB688 (2 pairs per channel) that is TO3P type package.
The 70.2, 120.2, 240.4... output transistors was MOTOROLA 2N6488 and 2N6491 - TO220 type package.

Hope my reply could match all question.

David_


----------



## David Yeh

TwinBassDaddy said:


> I would have to believe that MANY of us on this and a few other forums would love to see this actually come to light. And from what I've observed and read, there are some fantastically brilliant and highly knowledgeable members that would (hopefully) offer some assistance to the rest of us serfs who would be trying to DIY one for ourselves.
> 
> I just hope that pricing would fall in line to keep it attractive and competitive in this market.


_Thanks for TwinBassDaddy share idea.

This car amplifier DIY kit is first project for me; careful start configuration is very important matter. 

Because some people they had amplifier DIY experience but some guys they can't solder work with electronic components and measument voltage, current etc... How to solved these difference ability and satisfy AA fans enjoy their own amplifier will be my hard work.

I hope every fans could happy to hearing good sound after finished their amplifier kit without any problem for burn or smoking.

Hope I can see good idea from someone.
Thanks

David_


----------



## Ampman

MACS said:


> Maybe this will help you guys out. Sorry about the quality, but this was the way it was sent to me.


Appreciate it


----------



## envisionelec

David Yeh said:


> _Thanks for TwinBassDaddy share idea.
> 
> This car amplifier DIY kit is first project for me; careful start configuration is very important matter.
> 
> Because some people they had amplifier DIY experience but some guys they can't solder work with electronic components and measument voltage, current etc... How to solved these difference ability and satisfy AA fans enjoy their own amplifier will be my hard work.
> 
> I hope every fans could happy to hearing good sound after finished their amplifier kit without any problem for burn or smoking.
> 
> Hope I can see good idea from someone.
> Thanks
> 
> David_


I made some kit amplifiers a few years ago and have some insight into this. Provide assembled modules that can be expanded into high current or high voltage amplifiers.

My ideas in the big picture:

1. Modular Power Supply: SMPS with universal PCB for low and high voltage output (one toroid, multiple taps - parallel or series). Give the user a +/-15V regulated output and a 5V or 3.3V output (for logic control) and fuse or current limit everything.

2. Modular Audio: Preamp (bal or unbal), equalizers, crossovers, DSP, FET input stage, VA stage (cheap or complex) Bipolar Input, FET output, bipolar output. VI limiting. Everything is modular and can be experimented. Open source design for truly unique processing options can be explored.

3. Modular Power Rails: Large internal B+ "rail" bolts to the heatsink chassis on standoffs. Power is connected at one end. Grounds are handled appropriately to reduce ground loops/bounce. 

4. Modular Heatsink: Standard finned extrusion with a "sliding rail" system like T-Slot hardware where each module can be positioned. A "hidden" accessory slot under the extrusion's outboard exterior length provides a mounting location for outboard processing enclosures or "screwless" chassis mounting. Sized from 4" to 26" in 4" increments. Provide bare aluminum in addition to a few powder/anodized colors. Provide sample CAD files for badges, steel end plates, customization.

5. Modular Endplates: Use thick FR-4 material and PCB silkscreen for endplates. They are strong, can be copper flooded for shielding and grounded to the chassis through the attachment screws. 


Finally, I would like to get involved in this project. PM me for more details.


----------



## Ampman

This is my little 2100 it don't look half bad only minor scrapes on the fins at one end of it, got it from eBay as untested ended up having no problems the fuse I put in there temporary to test it I know it's not the rite size for it. A great sounding amp


----------



## legend94

Thank you David Yeh for bringing all of this information to us.


----------



## legend94

question: what is special about the ms series?


----------



## David Yeh

_Do you mean 100MS and 200MS?_


----------



## legend94

David Yeh said:


> _Do you mean 100MS and 200MS?_


yes, exactly. any insight would be awesome!


----------



## redheadedrod

Wow, I just happened to see this message...

Makes me want to break out my AA amps in storage... 
I have a few (6 or 7) MS series amps that were 2x50 (100MS I believe? Haven't seen the box in months to remember.. Supposed to be 375w x2ohm at 13.8v... ) 

i also have the same digital 4way crossover I see in message 84 unless that is an EQ. 

I also have a 6 channel amp and I want to say it was the 260.6XE but could have been the 340.6XE. 

I will be installing these in my Avalanche in a custom box mounted in the bed. Running 2 10" subs, 2 6.6" subs and a total of 4 sets of Diamond Audio HEX drivers. I have an old Clarion Deck I could use but I will likely get a new head unit to last me until the CarPC is ready. Will likely use the MS amplifiers to run all of this and may use the 4 way cross over to run it all. Question though... Since my diamond audio speakers will be run as passives can I actually connect the top two stages of the 4way cross over together to run the amplifiers? I only need it to be a 3 way cross over but I need the bottom three points not the top three. 

My impression is that I should be able to just use a Y connecter on the outputs of the crossover to combine them and feed the amplifier with them. 

the front is a 3way passive and the rear is 2 way passive. 

This stuff is sweet and bullet proof so I can't wait to get it all running in my truck.. 
Local shop is trying to sell me a newer Alpine Amp to do all but I told them I couldn't see 1 $1800 amp smaller than my 6 channel amp putting out anywhere near the power these MS amplifiers put out.

My custom box will put the 2 tens on the sides and the center will be for any processors and the amplifiers. These trucks have a drop down "midgate" between the cab and the bed which I will replace with a custom panel to allow all of the bass through and to allow cooling of the amplifiers. the 6.6 subs will go up front in the center console where the single bose subwoofer is now. The diamond hex drivers will go where the factory speakers are now. The only customized mount will be for the 4" that will be up front.

Should be a tad louder than the factory bose system and a little cleaner... 

Not sure what I want to do with this 6 channel amp though... It has a built in crossover as well.


----------



## David Yeh

legend94 said:


> yes, exactly. any insight would be awesome!


_First, we talk about main specification of AudioArt MS series.
Output power: 100MS 200MS
Stereo @ 4 ohms 50Wx2 100WX2 
Stereo @ 2 ohms 100Wx2 200WX2
Bridge @ 4 ohms 200Wx1 400Wx1

Tone control:
Treble 0+18dB @10KHz
Bass 0+18dB @30-100Hz

Bridge mode: Tri mode

The old 70.2, 120.2, 200.2......340.6 was mono mode only when work in bridge(bridge switch set on), and input signal come to right channel(I remember).
But MS series work in tri mode without bridge switch, inputs just use a
Y connecter or input same phase singal to both channels when mono speaker
wire connected to RIGHT+ and LEFT- terminal. 

This MS series without crossover, But 70.2 - 340.6 with crossover option 
for low pass, high pass filters and bass EQ.


hope I could replied right information for you.

David _


----------



## redheadedrod

Thank you for your quick response David. 

I don't know if you can answer my question but I have the AA 3/4 way cross over that you can see part of in the picture in message #84. If you are familiar with this it is one that can be a conventional 3 way or a 4 way.

For my application I would like to use this cross over but because my non sub speakers are passive I want to combine the top two frequency ranges and use it in a non conventional 3 way configuration. 

Can I just Y the outputs of this cross over to combine those top two ranges?

I can get a picture of the cross over and show what I mean if that helps.

Rodney


----------



## David Yeh

redheadedrod said:


> Thank you for your quick response David.
> 
> I don't know if you can answer my question but I have the AA 3/4 way cross over that you can see part of in the picture in message #84. If you are familiar with this it is one that can be a conventional 3 way or a 4 way.
> 
> For my application I would like to use this cross over but because my non sub speakers are passive I want to combine the top two frequency ranges and use it in a non conventional 3 way configuration.
> 
> Can I just Y the outputs of this cross over to combine those top two ranges?
> 
> I can get a picture of the cross over and show what I mean if that helps.
> 
> Rodney


" Can I just Y the outputs of this cross over to combine those top two ranges? "
_Please don't go this way! 
Because that signal of combine point will be weak and maybe distortion.
And that cross over output buffer IC (cross over output OP-Amp) will easy for damager if series output resistor value too small.

David _


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Great to see you on here David! I have a question if you don't mind. I have several Audio Art amps, 100ms x 2, 200ms, 50hc and 100hc, 400.2 and a couple 4 channels. My question is how would you compare SQ and output of the 400.2 VS a 100hc for sub/mid bass section?

Let's say I wanted to power my sub stage on a 2 ohm load, and run my mid bass at 4 ohm stereo~ which amplifier would you suggest for each between these two and why. Benefits, pros/cons?

Thanks for your or ANYONE elses input/opinion..

Steve


----------



## WRX2010

deeppinkdiver said:


> Great to see you on here David! I have a question if you don't mind. I have several Audio Art amps, 100ms x 2, 200ms, 50hc and 100hc, 400.2 and a couple 4 channels. My question is how would you compare SQ and output of the 400.2 VS a 100hc for sub/mid bass section?
> 
> Let's say I wanted to power my sub stage on a 2 ohm load, and run my mid bass at 4 ohm stereo~ which amplifier would you suggest for each between these two and why. Benefits, pros/cons?
> 
> Thanks for your or ANYONE elses input/opinion..
> 
> Steve


Open up your 100HC and you will see "Designed by David Yeh" on the board. right below that there is another name that I cannot remember.


----------



## SoundJunkie

deeppinkdiver said:


> Great to see you on here David! I have a question if you don't mind. I have several Audio Art amps, 100ms x 2, 200ms, 50hc and 100hc, 400.2 and a couple 4 channels. My question is how would you compare SQ and output of the 400.2 VS a 100hc for sub/mid bass section?
> 
> Let's say I wanted to power my sub stage on a 2 ohm load, and run my mid bass at 4 ohm stereo~ which amplifier would you suggest for each between these two and why. Benefits, pros/cons?
> 
> Thanks for your or ANYONE elses input/opinion..
> 
> Steve


400.2 on midbass at 4ohms stereo (400.2 is not rated at 2ohms mono) and still gives you 200x2 (more like 230x2 at 13.8V)
100HC on 2 ohm sub load...or better yet 1 ohm load The lower the impedence the more power it makes and is stable to .5ohm. The 100HC only makes 50x2 @ 4ohms stereo...therefore weaker midbass output.


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Thanks soundjunkie.. I know you have experience with the 400.2 on 8's up front. Really set myself up for ridicule and harrasment asing such silly ?'s. I know what both amps are capable of, well on paper. I think the 100ms would be great bridge to mids with the 200ms running highs. If I were to ever use my AA amps it would be amazing I'm sure. I collect more then I use..lol

Edit.. I would have no issue dropping that 100hc down to 1 ohm.


----------



## David Yeh

Steve,
Without any doubt, the 100HC better than 400.2 in sound quality and low ohm driven ability.
100HC was won best sound quality in AudioArt amplifiers.
But that 400.2 has more output power than 100HC in 4 / 2 ohm in stereo load,
400.2 weak point just in can't driven 2 ohm bridge load, (but it is your sub stage demand).
So it is hard question for me.

For my idea, please add 50HC for compare 400.2 in midbass sound quality. 
First step try use soundjunkie solution: use 400.2 driven midbass 4 ohm in stereo mode,
Of course 100HC driven your 2 ohm sub woofer in bridge mode.
Second step: Try use 50HC replace the 400.2 for compare their sound quality and style; then choise the best sound in your system.
In addition - that 50HC also good in sound quality and driven ability.
Maybe my idea could help something for you.

Please see below 100HC, 50HC and 400.2X ranking report in Autohifi magzine Germany.
100HC stereo output power are 2x144W/258W/438W/556W at 4/2/1 and 0.5 ohm.
50HC stereo output power are 2x59W/104W/160W/230W at 4/2/1 and 0.5 ohm.
another report show 400.2X output power are 2x208W stereo and 632W mono in 4 ohm load. 
https://picasaweb.google.com/102102883935891304252/AudioArt100HC#5556785718086611426
https://picasaweb.google.com/102102883935891304252/AudioArt100HC#5556785621484336994


----------



## deeppinkdiver

David.. Thank you VERY much for your input. I assumed the 400.2 was a better SQ choice over the HC line up. I'm certainly glad I asked for your advice. I guess we can still learn somthing new everyday, just have to ask the right questions. 

Thanks again. I'm sure that will help several members.

Any suggested updates/replacement parts for the Audio Art amps due to their age? Do you offer repair/update services or can you suggest a company/individual? Mine all work fine I'm just curious.

Thanks,

Steve


----------



## TrickyRicky

deeppinkdiver said:


> David.. Thank you VERY much for your input. I assumed the 400.2 was a better SQ choice over the HC line up. I'm certainly glad I asked for your advice. I guess we can still learn somthing new everyday, just have to ask the right questions.
> 
> Thanks again. I'm sure that will help several members.
> 
> Any suggested updates/replacement parts for the Audio Art amps due to their age? Do you offer repair/update services or can you suggest a company/individual? Mine all work fine I'm just curious.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve


They probably only need simple maintenance after so many years (especially over 10years old). All electrolytic caps checked (with ESR meter), new heatsink compound. Simply things like that. But I never had any problems with any of my AA's (I had 4 but only used two for a while, the other two I tested a few times and no problems).


Now am regreating selling my 240.4XE, and I doubt I'll ever find one at the price I snatch mine for.


----------



## David Yeh

TrickyRicky.... You are right! 
I remember one of AA supplier told me that AA amplifier has big problem,
their life time too long! He own a AA 70.2 still good sound after work 7 years.
He said that is no good products for economic because consumer no chance to replace new one!
This supplier was mention his 70.2 for me about ten years ago.

AudioArt engineers seems done stupid work.
Are you think so?

David


----------



## TrickyRicky

David Yeh said:


> TrickyRicky.... You are right!
> I remember one of AA supplier told me that AA amplifier has big problem,
> their life time too long! He own a AA 70.2 still good sound after work 7 years.
> He said that is no good products for economic because consumer no chance to replace new one!
> This supplier was mention his 70.2 for me about ten years ago.
> 
> *AudioArt engineers seems done stupid work.
> Are you think so?*
> David


*I DO NOT think so.* Just like cars.... amplifiers need maintenance after so many miles/hours of usage. Its commond sense but a lot seem to lack that. I myself lack that a few years ago, until I myself started messing with electronics and found out the hard way that capacitors leak/fail with time. Its NATURAL, its not impossible. I know some electronics may work for long periods of time (20,30,40 years) but you need to think WHERE those components where made and WHERE TODAY'S components are made. So it makes sense that they will fail eventually.

That doesn't make the product weak or faulty. I had a 70.2X and it worked perfectly (ofcourse I never checked or removed the caps because it sounded good enought for me to say....ITS PERFECT). But I won't be surprise if they do have leaky or bad caps after more than 10 years of usage or storage.


Just like most old school PG amps, they have leaky/faulty caps, does that make them weak???......NOPE it just makes it more affordable for me to buy and replace those caps and get it back to working/perfect condition.


----------



## David Yeh

deeppinkdiver said:


> David.. Thank you VERY much for your input. I assumed the 400.2 was a better SQ choice over the HC line up. I'm certainly glad I asked for your advice. I guess we can still learn somthing new everyday, just have to ask the right questions.
> 
> Thanks again. I'm sure that will help several members.
> 
> Any suggested updates/replacement parts for the Audio Art amps due to their age? Do you offer repair/update services or can you suggest a company/individual? Mine all work fine I'm just curious.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve


Steve,

I will happy to support this service for AudioArt fans.
But our company location in Taiwan (East of Asia), I think UPS or express charge will too high for sending and back.
Maybe Envisionelec or others they can help me to do this service under our original design components.

David


----------



## David Yeh

TrickyRicky said:


> *I DO NOT think so.* Just like cars.... amplifiers need maintenance after so many miles/hours of usage. Its commond sense but a lot seem to lack that. I myself lack that a few years ago, until I myself started messing with electronics and found out the hard way that capacitors leak/fail with time. Its NATURAL, its not impossible. I know some electronics may work for long periods of time (20,30,40 years) but you need to think WHERE those components where made and WHERE TODAY'S components are made. So it makes sense that they will fail eventually.
> 
> That doesn't make the product weak or faulty. I had a 70.2X and it worked perfectly (ofcourse I never checked or removed the caps because it sounded good enought for me to say....ITS PERFECT). But I won't be surprise if they do have leaky or bad caps after more than 10 years of usage or storage.
> 
> 
> Just like most old school PG amps, they have leaky/faulty caps, does that make them weak???......NOPE it just makes it more affordable for me to buy and replace those caps and get it back to working/perfect condition.


TrickyRicky,
*JUST this capacitor matter*.
Electrolytic capacitors is hard work in high temperature.
But some engineer they superstition design higher current in amplifier output stage for get more good sound. it is will be generation more high temperature in transistors, heatsink and all electronic components.
That electrolytic capacitor and output transistors will be will be first damage components.
But they don't know high current output stage only can driven strong sound to speaker. It is can't promise reproducing good or better sound quality to our ears. This is why we need George to do acoustic tuning work for
every models when we finish an amplifier working sample. He was change some components for balance raw material concept for got better sounded amplifier. You can find AudioArt 100HC also printing George name in PC board.
So, you already know why AudioArt amplifiers has very good sound with long life reliability.

In edition - Almost audio company has electronic and mechanical engineer but without acoustic engineer.

David


----------



## TrickyRicky

David Yeh said:


> TrickyRicky,
> *JUST this capacitor matter*.
> Electrolytic capacitors is hard work in high temperature.
> But some engineer they superstition design higher current in amplifier output stage for get more good sound. it is will be generation more high temperature in transistors, heatsink and all electronic components.
> That electrolytic capacitor and output transistors will be will be first damage components.
> But they don't know high current output stage only can driven strong sound to speaker. It is can't promise reproducing good or better sound quality to our ears. This is why we need George to do acoustic tuning work for
> every models when we finish an amplifier working sample. He was change some components for balance raw material concept for got better sounded amplifier. You can find AudioArt 100HC also printing George name in PC board.
> So, you already know why AudioArt amplifiers has very good sound with long life reliability.
> 
> In edition - Almost audio company has electronic and mechanical engineer but without acoustic engineer.
> 
> David


Thank you for your kind words. I absolutly agree with you regarding making an amplifer work harder/more heat and it will shorten the life-span of certain (if not most) components, and I know that most out-dated components have better replacements. Such as output transistors, while the ones used by the manufacture where great/superb for their time--there is replacements that are better in specs. Doesnt mean its output will be higher/greater, just make product more reliable.


----------



## envisionelec

David Yeh said:


> Steve,
> 
> I will happy to support this service for AudioArt fans.
> But our company location in Taiwan (East of Asia), I think UPS or express charge will too high for sending and back.
> Maybe Envisionelec or others they can help me to do this service under our original design components.
> 
> David


Anything you need. Just say the words.


----------



## David Yeh

Here is full set of test report of AudioArt 100HC, it is tested by Autohifi magazine Germany in May of 1995. 
You can see that German how to said that AudioArt 100HC in this report.
That is best sound quality amplifier!!! it is great pity if just use in low frequency range. 
Of course, you may need translate tool to do this matter if you have time.
P48










P46










P62










P63










P64











Here is ranking report for car amplifier in Autohifi magazine - May of 1995.
That bold letter font was Reference amplifier marked.
The AudioArt 100HC and 50HC both models are got "Reference" mark in high current amplifier section.
"ONLY AudioArt two amplifiers got this Reference marked" Other brand no this honored. 

P77









P76









DAVID YEH


----------



## tyroneshoes

Unfortunately, those pics are a little too small for us to read though I am curious.


----------



## subwoofery

tyroneshoes said:


> Unfortunately, those pics are a little too small for us to read though I am curious.


Try the links posted in post #111 

Kelvin


----------



## David Yeh

subwoofery said:


> Try the links posted in post #111
> 
> Kelvin


Here is URL link to AudioArt 100HC test report.
You can download all of them in here!
And attached some 100HC schematics together. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102102883935891304252/AudioArt100HC#

David Yeh


----------



## David Yeh

This is another test report which was announced on Jan of 1998 in Autohifi Germany.
URL link 
https://picasaweb.google.com/102102...anOf1998InAotoHifiGermany#5747383089120259154










David Yeh


----------



## TrickyRicky

Thanks David, I already saved those schematics once you first posted here those links. But thanks again for posting that, that lets other members here know what how their AA's are designed/built.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

SO what would be stronger.. the 50HC at 1ohm bridged or the 400.2 at 4ohm bridged. I know the 400.2 is supposed to do 800W according to the plate on top of the amp but then I see where it benched just over 600w? Is that right? Anyone know the real world number on the 50hc?


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

David Yeh said:


> Steve,
> Without any doubt, the 100HC better than 400.2 in sound quality and low ohm driven ability.
> 100HC was won best sound quality in AudioArt amplifiers.
> But that 400.2 has more output power than 100HC in 4 / 2 ohm in stereo load,
> 400.2 weak point just in can't driven 2 ohm bridge load, (but it is your sub stage demand).
> So it is hard question for me.
> 
> For my idea, please add 50HC for compare 400.2 in midbass sound quality.
> First step try use soundjunkie solution: use 400.2 driven midbass 4 ohm in stereo mode,
> Of course 100HC driven your 2 ohm sub woofer in bridge mode.
> Second step: Try use 50HC replace the 400.2 for compare their sound quality and style; then choise the best sound in your system.
> In addition - that 50HC also good in sound quality and driven ability.
> Maybe my idea could help something for you.
> 
> Please see below 100HC, 50HC and 400.2X ranking report in Autohifi magzine Germany.
> 100HC stereo output power are 2x144W/258W/438W/556W at 4/2/1 and 0.5 ohm.
> 50HC stereo output power are 2x59W/104W/160W/230W at 4/2/1 and 0.5 ohm.
> another report show 400.2X output power are 2x208W stereo and 632W mono in 4 ohm load.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102102883935891304252/AudioArt100HC#5556785718086611426
> https://picasaweb.google.com/102102883935891304252/AudioArt100HC#5556785621484336994


Whats the real world mono power of the 50HC at 1ohm? My 400.2 says 800W on top which I was told is its 4ohm mono rating.. the 400.2XE says 700W on top.. not sure why they are different. I just don't get why its benching 632W mono in their test.


----------



## SoundJunkie

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Whats the real world mono power of the 50HC at 1ohm? My 400.2 says 800W on top which I was told is its 4ohm mono rating.. the 400.2XE says 700W on top.. not sure why they are different. I just don't get why its benching 632W mono in their test.


 Dude, the 50HC is wayyy too weak for your sub! 

Testing done at 12 or 13.8V? These are unregulated

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

SoundJunkie said:


> Dude, the 50HC is wayyy too weak for your sub!
> 
> Testing done at 12 or 13.8V? These are unregulated
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Yeah.. I need a 100HC  Guess I can trade my 400.2 and 50HC for one!


----------



## TrickyRicky

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Yeah.. I need a 100HC  Guess I can trade my 400.2 and 50HC for one!


Damn your making me wish I had a 100HC............so I can trade you for those two nice amps.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

TrickyRicky said:


> Damn your making me wish I had a 100HC............so I can trade you for those two nice amps.


I wish you did too! lol


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

To anyone watching this thread.. I need a Clean white 400.2! I have other AA amps I can trade for or just cash. I have a clean 50HC I can offer up as trade for you collectors who don't want to give up an AA amp!


----------



## ollschool

****, my 100HC went to Germany. Wish i would of just kept it. Now im getten the Fever back, Dam this forum.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

ollschool said:


> ****, my 100HC went to Germany. Wish i would of just kept it. Now im getten the Fever back, Dam this forum.


Yeah... still kicking my self for not buying that one.. overall it was really clean. I need a dang 100HC or 400.2..


----------



## envisionelec

TrickyRicky said:


> I would ask for internal pics and info just to see what crappy cheap components their using. Am sure their made in China and distributed in Mexico.
> 
> I just got my hands on three AudioArts (240.4 and two 140.4) thats too many channels so I might just bridge them and have 6 channels.
> 
> Anyone know where I can find plugs for them, because I would hate to cut them off just to run straight wire (which I dont want to do because it looks ghetto) I would rather modified them and add a terminal block for the speakers.


Found the plugs for you!!

4 PIN CONNECTOR - DLCparts.com - DLC Parts - David Levy Company

Just cut off the end you don't need.


----------



## TrickyRicky

Thanks, I know that link will help others with that need them aswell.


----------



## Ampman

MACS said:


> A VERY big welcome to you David Yeh!! I own many of your amps and have some of your old magazine advertisements if you need any pictures.
> My personal favorite amps are the 200.2T, 200.2RXT, 100MS, 200MS, 400.2, 50HC, and 100HC.
> 
> Here is an AA that was made before quite a few Diyma members were born and it's still going strong . I believe the A-3004 were made around 1989 and the specs I have are 4x25 watts. It is a very stout amp and has no problem pounding my test bench studio monitors. Sorry about the dust. Haven't gotten around to cleaning and touching this one up yet.


I like the early productions of old school amps, that 3004 is a nice one. As with most that were made in that time frame they used bipolar power supplies instead of MOSFET, do you know if this one uses bipolars or not I was kinda wondering thanks.


----------



## MACS

I have not opened mine up to take any pics, only bench tested it. There is a German website with a few gut shots. The amp is a primitive design like most from back then, but it gets the job done. 

Audio Art A-3004


----------



## Mako312

You guys are making want to get a new amp.


----------



## Ampman

MACS said:


> I have not opened mine up to take any pics, only bench tested it. There is a German website with a few gut shots. The amp is a primitive design like most from back then, but it gets the job done.
> 
> Audio Art A-3004


Appreciate the info, pics answered my question it dose have a bipolar power supply thanks


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Mako312 said:


> You guys are making want to get a new amp.


I am about to put up a couple AA amps for sale.. A pretty clean 50HC and a clean 120.2 but it has one black side plate.. stole one side to turn a brown amp white..


----------



## ellocojorge

TwinBassDaddy said:


> Well, upon searching the internet, I stumbled across this interesting website:
> 
> CATALOGO AUDIOART
> 
> It seems that either Audio Art is back in business, in Mexico. Or, someone bought the name and is now using it. Or maybe someone else has the real answer.
> 
> Just thought it was a bit interesting.


Those reference series components look very Nice. They look like the re xxx ceramic components

Sent from my LG-MS910 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

I know some of you are looking for these so I wanted to give you guys a heads up in this thread. 

50HC Clean 8/10 Cosmetic
120.2 Clean but black end plate on one side. 9/10 cosmetic
400.2XE that needs repair (works but thumps when powering off) 7/10 cosmetic

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/131618-fs-audio-art-50hc-120-2-a.html


----------



## bigdwiz

I recently came across two fine examples of Audio Art amplifiers...the 2400HO and 100HC. Both came in original boxes w/ the manuals:

*1998 Audio Art 2400HO*




























I recently tested the 2400HO for output and although the 4 ohm results were just over rated, the 2 ohm stereo and 4 ohm mono tests fell far short of rated. I may send the amp out to Aaron at Envision to check it over. I had plans on selling the 2400HO, but after reading this thread, I may just hold onto both. I haven't tested the 100HC yet, but the 2400HO sounds extremely clean and has more than enough power to drive my test speakers.

See the overview video of the 2400HO and 100HC


Watch me bench test the 2400HO (at 13.8v, 40Hz, 1% THD)


*1997 Audio Art 100HC Cheater Amp*.

Rated 50x2 at 4 ohms, said to do over 1100w bridged at 1 ohm!*

* BIG thanks to Danny for providing links to the scans!! One review was from 5/95 and the other was from 1/98, both German auto_hifi _magazines. I'm having my neighbor help translate the articles and will post the outcome in a few days.

This amp is almost perfect. I found two tiny scratches, but I'd rate it 9.8/10. Oh yeah, it came in the box w/ the manual and dual fuse holders












*They call it "Art" for a reason *


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Man you found some really clean ones. Both my 200MS are mintish like those.


----------



## envisionelec

bigdwiz said:


> I recently tested the 2400HO for output and although the 4 ohm results were just over rated, the 2 ohm stereo and 4 ohm mono tests fell far short of rated. I may send the amp out to Aaron at Envision to check it over. I had plans on selling the 2400HO, but after reading this thread, I may just hold onto both.


I don't think there is anything wrong with your 2400HO. Those later blue amps were *nothing* like the older ones. The boards are not 24kt plated - that's just a clear soldermask over bare copper. There aren't enough output devices to support those lower impedance loads, so they kept the rail voltages lower. 

A nice looking layout does not a nice amplifier make.  

I'd sell it.


----------



## bigdwiz

Thanks Aaron! It still sounds great and I doubt many would need to run it at 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms bridged, so the 4 ohm output driving some components may be just perfect for someone's system


----------



## SoundJunkie

envisionelec said:


> I don't think there is anything wrong with your 2400HO. Those later blue amps were *nothing* like the older ones. The boards are not 24kt plated - that's just a clear soldermask over bare copper. There aren't enough output devices to support those lower impedance loads, so they kept the rail voltages lower.
> 
> A nice looking layout does not a nice amplifier make.
> 
> I'd sell it.


Agreed! These were also assembled in Korea if memory serves me. A 200.2 will walk all over it!



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ampman

SoundJunkie said:


> Agreed! These were also assembled in Korea if memory serves me. A 200.2 will walk all over it!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Humm that's Odd, I'll take my 2100 HO apart an see if there's anything stated in there of it being assembled in Korea that's the first I've heard of that, but good to know if it is. Thanks for sharing that


----------



## trojan fan

SoundJunkie said:


> Agreed! These were also assembled in Korea if memory serves me. A 200.2 will walk all over it!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


It says "Made in USA" right below the 2400 lettering


----------



## envisionelec

It doesn't matter where it's made. It's what's inside...and they're not the same thing.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

For anyone wanting AA amps.. I just sold two 200ms and I have 2 x 400.2 and a 120.2 for sale. I know some of you guys are looking. Took me forever to find mine.


----------



## BIG!

DAMN!! This was getting good, what happened here? where did everyone go?


----------



## TrickyRicky

Sad but everyone switched to class D amps.


----------



## BIG!

HA! CLASS D!! So did some searching to see if i could find something to keep this one going but.....FAIL!!!! i hit a wall and Only thing i find is this Taiwan - amplifier, car amplifier, high current amplifier, crossover, subwoofer amplifier supplier & manufacturer -
dont know how old this is but seems outdated to me. i guess there will be no AA comeback.


----------



## Ampman

I don't like class D don't care how their tossed out there as a sales pitch either they can keep um hehe


----------



## deeppinkdiver

I havent gone class D. Plenty of Audio Arts here still. Wouldnt mind selling a few. Not the only Good ol amps up for grabs


----------



## BIG!

deeppinkdiver said:


> I havent gone class D. Plenty of Audio Arts here still. Wouldnt mind selling a few. Not the only Good ol amps up for grabs


Maybe not the only "good ol amps" but they sure are purdy-er than most. but man......that 100hc is BAD ASS!! i've never had the privilege to audition one but reading what it has done and still doin....man!!!! one day ladys n gentlemen i will own one of those bad boys!!


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Man... I had 7 100hc amps, sold 5 recently.

I still own 100ms x 2, 200ms, 200.2 x 2, 340.6 x 2 , 50.2t and two 100hc x 2 one clean one not so clean..


----------



## legend94

that 200ms is one of my favorites because its a no bs no crossover.


----------



## TrickyRicky

I have a HighOutput 2100 I bought at a pawnshop (without testing for 25.00, very good condition). Got home and turned out it was damaged (blown fets) so now it will get new fets/ outputs/ and two gate resistors. I will post pics once I get it done (hopefully this weekend). I could take it back and get my 25.00 but all they will do is throw it in the trash...can't allow a AudioArt to go in the trash over a few components.


Any here with similar amps (HighOutput, blue in color). They look to have very similar design to other AA's I've had in the past (MS and a few XE). So it should be worth the effort in repairing.


----------



## BIG!

TrickyRicky said:


> I have a HighOutput 2100 I bought at a pawnshop (without testing for 25.00, very good condition). Got home and turned out it was damaged (blown fets) so now it will get new fets/ outputs/ and two gate resistors. I will post pics once I get it done (hopefully this weekend). I could take it back and get my 25.00 but all they will do is throw it in the trash...can't allow a AudioArt to go in the trash over a few components.
> 
> 
> Any here with similar amps (HighOutput, blue in color). They look to have very similar design to other AA's I've had in the past (MS and a few XE). So it should be worth the effort in repairing.


i have an almost new mint condishh 2400ho that i got from bigdwiz a while back and its so pretty n shinny that im hesitating to install it in my ride. but i think i just might hook it up just to hear it do its thang......you know what im sayin??


----------



## Ampman

BIG! said:


> i have an almost new mint condishh 2400ho that i got from bigdwiz a while back and its so pretty n shinny that im hesitating to install it in my ride. but i think i just might hook it up just to hear it do its thang......you know what im sayin??


My little HO 2100 looks almost mint that along with having more amps than I really need I haven't installed mine hehe


----------



## TrickyRicky

Okay, got all the transistors and both resistors installed and powered it up. I got 16vac prior to clipping, so power rating is very accurate. 

I might put this up on fleebay for 75.00 and let someone else enjoy it.....I have over 20 amplifiers that are just collecting dust.


----------



## David Yeh

BIG! said:


> HA! CLASS D!! So did some searching to see if i could find something to keep this one going but.....FAIL!!!! i hit a wall and Only thing i find is this Taiwan - amplifier, car amplifier, high current amplifier, crossover, subwoofer amplifier supplier & manufacturer -
> dont know how old this is but seems outdated to me. i guess there will be no AA comeback.


BIG:
1. We are supported some high end brands in car audio field,
That we can't exposure too much in advertising our products.
So our website already over ten years no change.
2. Regarding DIY kit of dual mono amplifier:
Please allow me delay some time for this new design.
Beacuse my wife health was no so good last year.
She was support for me too much during past years.

David Yeh

Remember that I said: AudioArt will be comeback......


----------



## BIG!

David Yeh said:


> BIG:
> 1. We are supported some high end brands in car audio field,
> That we can't exposure too much in advertising our products.
> So our website already over ten years no change.
> 2. Regarding DIY kit of dual mono amplifier:
> Please allow me delay some time for this new design.
> Beacuse my wife health was no so good last year.
> She was support for me too much during past years.
> 
> David Yeh
> 
> Remember that I said: AudioArt will be comeback......


Oh Hello David, Im sorry to hear about your wife i hope she's ok now and it is nice to see that your still involved. maybe one of these days you can share some insight on what you're working on so that we may enjoy this AWESOME!! thread....thank you


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Im happy to see David follows these threads some and gives us hope we will see new product from him one day. Hope the wife recovers well.


----------



## deeppinkdiver

TrickyRicky said:


> Okay, got all the transistors and both resistors installed and powered it up. I got 16vac prior to clipping, so power rating is very accurate.
> 
> I might put this up on fleebay for 75.00 and let someone else enjoy it.....I have over 20 amplifiers that are just collecting dust.




Id like to see pics of this amp before it hit feebay sir. Still have my email?


----------



## TrickyRicky

Pn me your email and I'll send you pics of amp and some while I was testing it.


----------



## BIG!

TrickyRicky said:


> Okay, got all the transistors and both resistors installed and powered it up. I got 16vac prior to clipping, so power rating is very accurate.
> 
> I might put this up on fleebay for 75.00 and let someone else enjoy it.....I have over 20 amplifiers that are just collecting dust.



Hey TrickyRicky, got any pics of your collection we can see while we wait for some updates?  cant wait to hook mine up, as soon as i figure how to deaden my doors (not doing the entire doors just sections of) imma slapping on my components and see what this baby can produce. YEAH!!!!!


----------



## TrickyRicky

I dont have any pics. The HO2400 will do 2 x 200watts at 4ohm per channel, which is plenty of power for most components.


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## file audio

ohhh its nice to found this thread,,, this week an old audioArt amp falls in my hands,, a little 140.4xe I made a manual home made conector for the speaker outs, after put on focal krx3 tweeters and mid ranges, for my surprise the amp sounded clean and nice, its very tiny and crosover freq and gain potentiometers gains doesnt work,,, but it seems it got stucked on a nice eq point, no way to adjust volumen. but as I have the helix p dsp I can set up the gains there and xovers.... I would like to know what an audiophile thinks about the audioArt amps..... mine is 140,4xe....... remember I took out a mcintosh and phoenix gold to check the AA amp and it done very well... this is a good amp? this is a high end amp? it retails expensive?any thoughs?


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## file audio

this thread is so interesting ihope its not dead yet


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## Picco

David Yeh said:


> BIG:
> 1. We are supported some high end brands in car audio field,
> That we can't exposure too much in advertising our products.
> So our website already over ten years no change.
> 2. Regarding DIY kit of dual mono amplifier:
> Please allow me delay some time for this new design.
> Beacuse my wife health was no so good last year.
> She was support for me too much during past years.
> 
> David Yeh
> 
> Remember that I said: AudioArt will be comeback......


Hi David, sorry for reply on the old post..
i need help for Audio Art 400.2X, i have one without power supply input capacitors, C8, C9, C10, C11, and i don't know capacitors value. can you help me? thanks a lot


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