# 3-way active front stage



## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Hey guys,

​ So i need help with choosing wattage levels for my 3 way active front stage. I will be purchasing the Focal PS 165 F3 3 way component set ( i am open to different speaker suggestions) and will be running it active and since I am not using the passive crossovers it came with, all of my rms settings are differ on the speakers. The woofer has a 80w rms, the midrange has a 50w rms, and the tweeter has a 15w rms. 
​ What i was thinking of doing was powering the tweeter at 50w rms with the rear fill, and powering the midrange and woofer at 75-100 rms. Would this be alright, or do i need to rms match all my speakers? 

Like i said, i am open to different speaker suggestions, i have a max budget for components alone at $800 max, but i do want to stay below that. I will be installing these speakers in a 2008 Chevy avalanche. I will be adding sound deadening from sounddeadenershowdown. I want to install the woofers in the doors and the mids/tweets in the kickpanels. I’ll be using an audison BitOne for the sound processing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## Valdemar (Aug 19, 2014)

What kind of amplifier are you using? I would not recommend pushing 50w through a tweeter. 

you adjust your level for each speaker typically (or set of channels on some amps)


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

I have yet to chose an amplifier, i like to find the speakers first before amplifiers. Now, should i purchase a separate amplifier for the tweeters, have the mids and rear fill on 1 amp, and purchase a separate amp for the woofers?


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

What about a sub ? That’s an awfully large vehicle. You’re going to want some low end. 
Also, go with individual DIY drivers. No sense paying for passive crossovers if you’re not going to use them. Just my 2 cents


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Yea, i like that idea a lot better, but i am a complete noob when it comes to picking raw drivers, so help would be appreciated lol. I am a very bass heavy guy. I love all genres of music, but my main genre is Hip-Hop. I am going with Rockford Fosgate P3D4 - 15 that will be ran off of a NVX JAD1200.1


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Also I don’t care about my hearing as I get older, so I like to listen to my music loud . I’ve heard of websites such as parts-express, but don’t know where to start. 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Lots of searching/reading is in your future ?
Seriously, read, read, and read some more. Look at the “ Help me choose equipment for my car” section here. Also, the “Member reviews “ section has lots of good discussion. 
A lot of it depends on your driver sizes and locations as well as your fabrication skills. 
A 3-way front stage is a pretty complicated first step into an active system. You might want to consider starting with a 2-way + sub. Then, in the future, once you get comfortable with crossovers, slopes, EQ, phase, levels, etc you could consider adding a dedicated midrange or midbass. 
What source unit are you using to feed the BitOne ?


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

there’s a lot to read here lol, but I can do it. Since I am keeping my factory head unit, I am going off of the rear speaker levels for the BitOne


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Mightymel said:


> there’s a lot to read here lol, but I can do it. Since I am keeping my factory head unit, I am going off of the rear speaker levels for the BitOne
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok. Well, I’ll have to defer to more knowledgeable members regarding that one. 
You have a pretty involved install ahead, so take your time and plan things as best as possible. Look for other installs involving your vehicle to see what other people have done that worked for them. 
You haven’t mentioned a total budget. Don’t forget wiring and other install items that can be fairly pricey. Also, once you decide what “type” of system you want ( 2 or 3-way + sub, etc ) only then will you know what kind of install accessories and amplification you will need.


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Yea I’m looking forward to it. I have a few months before I do everything, so I will definitely do some more research. Total budget is $4000 ?that disgusts me lol, but it’s going to be a truck I keep past until the wheels fall off so well worth it. 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Is this your first time doing anything like this?


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

First time doing an active 3-way. Last vehicle had a 2-way passive. I thought about doing a 2-way active, but decided since my budget was so large and my vehicle was so big, I would put in the extra time and effort for a 3-way active. 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

So, you did the previous install yourself ? That’s what I was getting at. Not sure how much of a noob you are. ?
Remember, just because you have the budget for it, doesn’t mean you have to use all of the budget. Haha
Also, more equipment doesn’t necessarily mean better.


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Lol, not a total noob to audio installs, but there’s a gigantic difference from buying a set of prepackaged 2-way passive components and picking raw drivers lol.


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

You are correct. 
But, at least you’re familiar with running wiring, The Big 3, baffles, mounting equipment, etc. Right?


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Oh yea, most definitely! Those were apart of my last vehicle. But now I know I need to sit down and just go through the forum and learn what I need in terms of speakers. 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

You also need to decide if you’re going with stock sizes or not. And check depths, door panel clearances, baffle size fitting, etc.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

DeLander said:


> Lots of searching/reading is in your future ?
> Seriously, read, read, and read some more. Look at the “ Help me choose equipment for my car” section here. Also, the “Member reviews “ section has lots of good discussion.
> A lot of it depends on your driver sizes and locations as well as your fabrication skills.
> A 3-way front stage is a pretty complicated first step into an active system. You might want to consider starting with a 2-way + sub. Then, in the future, once you get comfortable with crossovers, slopes, EQ, phase, levels, etc you could consider adding a dedicated midrange or midbass.
> What source unit are you using to feed the BitOne ?


I started in stages.First was coaxes,then passive components,then 2-way raw driver active and now I'm seriously contemplating 3-way active.Guess that's the nature of this hobby though although I don't see why somebody couldn't just get started with a full blown 3-way active system.If they want to take the time to read and learn before installation and tuning it could work out for them.


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

I can see where he’s coming from. If someone who’s never driven before gets their license, your not going to put them on a highway and say drive lol


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

JH1973 said:


> I started in stages.First was coaxes,then passive components,then 2-way raw driver active and now I'm seriously contemplating 3-way active.Guess that's the nature of this hobby though although I don't see why somebody couldn't just get started with a full blown 3-way active system.If they want to take the time to read and learn before installation and tuning it could work out for them.


I agree. I built my current system in stages also. It just depends on what the goals are. And, I wasn’t sure of his previous experience with installing. 
The OP stated he wants it loud and good sounding. That can be accomplished with a 2-way + sub. He also mentioned running rear fill. Depends on if he actually needs it for rear passengers ( I wouldn’t think so - but he needs to figure that out ). 
As you know, a good system is more than just equipment. A lot of consideration has to go into install and tuning. It’s not as easy as buying drivers, mounting them, turning it on and expecting to have the best sounding system you’ve ever heard. ?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

DeLander said:


> I agree. I built my current system in stages also. It just depends on what the goals are. And, I wasn’t sure of his previous experience with installing.
> The OP stated he wants it loud and good sounding. That can be accomplished with a 2-way + sub. He also mentioned running rear fill. Depends on if he actually needs it for rear passengers ( I wouldn’t think so - but he needs to figure that out ).
> As you know, a good system is more than just equipment. A lot of consideration has to go into install and tuning. It’s not as easy as buying drivers, mounting them, turning it on and expecting to have the best sounding system you’ve ever heard. ?


By far the most neglected(and I'm guilty)aspect of good car audio is sound deadening.It's tedious,cumbersome "un-fun" work and that's the reason a lot of people don't do it.Let's face it,it's much more exciting to shop for amplifiers,speakers,subs,DSP's etc..than to purchase some CLD,MLV and CCF and spend hours cutting shapes,fitting,reshaping,cutting holes for wires,and on and on only to cover it all up and never see it.However,if the work is done and the time is taken I feel it's the best thing you can do to improve whatever system you happen to have.

The only deadening I've done is Dynamat in both front doors and trunk lid.However,doing the front doors improved speaker performance drastically and the trunk lid improved the performance of my "mid grade" Kicker sub.


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

Yea, that’s why I’m using materials provided from sounddeadenershowdown.com He has done excellent research about sound deadening vehicles and has taken many measurements of many vehicles to provide packages. For my truck, it’ll run me about $800 for all the CLD, CCF, and MLV, I’ll need for my entire cab. I’m familiar with taking out entire interiors, so it’s just a weekend spent in my truck 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Mightymel said:


> Yea, that’s why I’m using materials provided from sounddeadenershowdown.com He has done excellent research about sound deadening vehicles and has taken many measurements of many vehicles to provide packages. For my truck, it’ll run me about $800 for all the CLD, CCF, and MLV, I’ll need for my entire cab. I’m familiar with taking out entire interiors, so it’s just a weekend spent in my truck
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good plan. 
By looking at other installs in your vehicle, as I mentioned earlier, you’ll be able to decide where and how to mount equipment so you can plan how much deadening/ CCF/MLV you need or don’t need in certain areas. Just remember these materials will impede panel/ equipment fit to some degree in certain areas.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

DeLander said:


> Good plan.
> By looking at other installs in your vehicle, as I mentioned earlier, you’ll be able to decide where and how to mount equipment so you can plan how much deadening/ CCF/MLV you need or don’t need in certain areas. Just remember these materials will impede panel/ equipment fit to some degree in certain areas.


Yep,I've been really considering MLV-CCF in the front doors but I'm thinking that getting the door card back on will be impossible.The stuff is 1/8 inch thick!Plus the CCF makes it slightly thicker.If I tried to do it I'd need to buy new door clips.Have had my doors off so many times now they've gotta be worn out.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Valdemar said:


> What kind of amplifier are you using? I would not recommend pushing 50w through a tweeter.
> ...


How much wattage capability would you suggest then?
And how does one know what is being "pushed through"?

There is a volume know and amp gain knobs, so I am assuming that the 50W is a maximum number.


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## c3156 (Nov 23, 2016)

Mightymel said:


> there’s a lot to read here lol, but I can do it. Since I am keeping my factory head unit, I am going off of the rear speaker levels for the BitOne


Why don't you pull all of your speaker signals to make a more complete signal? The Audison has a lot of inputs, I would use them all.


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

c3156 said:


> Why don't you pull all of your speaker signals to make a more complete signal? The Audison has a lot of inputs, I would use them all.




Yup, I meant to say front and rear signals. I’m going to install a line output converter behind the HU and send RCA cables down to the Audison. 


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## james_so (Oct 23, 2017)

I have the audison bit ten and just tapped into the front speakers. Just make sure you're tapping to a full range speaker line

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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Hey Mel. 
Don’t think I missed it somewhere. What size and where are your factory speakers ? How much fabrication/ modifications are you willing to do ?


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## Mightymel (Jan 25, 2017)

My factory speakers are 6.5in and that’s for the doors and tweeters are in the a-pillars. I plan on installing kick panel speaker enclosures, so that way I can have 6.5in midbass in the doors, 4in midrange and 1in tweeters in the kicks. I’m willing to do some fabrication, but the outcome needs to show if it’s worth it or not. 


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## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

You might want to consider A-pillar midrange and tweeter placement. Check out the “Show off your A-pillar install” thread or whatever it’s called. There are lots of posts and pics in that thread to give you an idea
Found it. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...531-show-off-your-midrange-tweet-pillars.html


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## ribrown (May 2, 2012)

Hey Mel, I am a truck owner and think very old school when it comes to Car Audio. I just can't be convinced that any factory HU will ever sound as good as a good aftermarket. I can certainly be wrong, but for my tastes, I prefer a Good Kenwood. Because of this, I took the dive and replaced the nice 8" screen HU in my 2014 Silverado with a new Kenwood DDX6904S with an iDatalink Maestro. What a pain in the ass. 

Anyway, back on track here. I have a fully active front stage in my truck in custom built kick panels and lower stock door locations. I use an Audiocontrol 6xs linked to a 2XS to filter the frequencies at 3500 high for my Quart PSD tweets, 350 to 3500 for my Quart PSD 4" mids, and 70 to 350 for my QSD 6.5" in my doors. I use a JL Audio XD600/6 to power my tweets, mids, and rear fill midrange all with 75 watts each, and i have a Rockford Power T400X2ad to power my mid bass with 200 watts each. 

Now I love this set up. Crystal clear and plenty of volume. The sound staging from the kick panels sounds like it's still coming off the dashboard and is right in my face.

Just wanted to let you know my set up for ideas sake.


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