# Soldering speaker wire onto speaker terminal?



## number41 (Apr 10, 2017)

My Morel speakers have a smaller negative terminal than the positive. I have the correct size female ends for the positive but none for the negative. I certainly can go to a local shop and see if they have them but would it be better/ok to just solder the wire to the terminal?
I guess I could also try to put the larger female ends on them and try to crimp them. Just seems like I did that once years ago and I was concerned about breaking the actual terminal.


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## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

Not a fan of soldering a speaker connection. Doesn't really facilitate easy removal if/when they fail. Go to any part store and buy some connectors. Do it the right way man.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

I also believe you put the voice coil in danger when you solder. If you apply too much heat for too long, the heat will travel up and ruin it. Doesn't mean you can't solder. You just need to know what you doing and get in and out quick.


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## number41 (Apr 10, 2017)

Fair enough. I'll check the local shop.

One issue is the old connectors (that came with the morels) seem to be for a smaller gauge wire. My concern is that if I can find one of the smaller sized female connectors it won't allow my new 14 gauge wire to fit. 

Ugh


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## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

bring the speaker with you and know what gauge wire you're using. Find the correct connector. The devil is in the details my friend.


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## number41 (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks Ronin. I know what gauge I am using. The new wire I just ran for all of my speakers is 14 gauge. The original wire adapter I got from crutchfiled when I got the morels is a smaller gauge. And Morel supplied the female connectors IIRC. 

BUt I will bring the adapter at least. This local shop just doesn't really seem helpful when you go in there and spend big $. BUt I'll go by there tomorrow.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

number41 said:


> Thanks Ronin. I know what gauge I am using. The new wire I just ran for all of my speakers is 14 gauge. The original wire adapter I got from crutchfiled when I got the morels is a smaller gauge. And Morel supplied the female connectors IIRC.
> 
> 
> 
> BUt I will bring the adapter at least. This local shop just doesn't really seem helpful when you go in there and spend big $. BUt I'll go by there tomorrow.




Xt60 connectors from hobby shops only thing to use. Won't use anything else ever again. Solder wires on to the speaker with heat shrink and never worry about it. Make your pigtails a bit longer than these in the pic for easier install.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

number41 said:


> My Morel speakers have a smaller negative terminal than the positive. I have the correct size female ends for the positive but none for the negative. I certainly can go to a local shop and see if they have them but would it be better/ok to just solder the wire to the terminal?
> 
> I guess I could also try to put the larger female ends on them and try to crimp them. Just seems like I did that once years ago and I was concerned about breaking the actual terminal.


Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

0.187" is the middle size.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Just put in an order for Parts Express for a few different sizes. You'll have enough to never need to buy connecters again.


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## FlyingEagle (Sep 22, 2017)

Soldering terminals can be tricky as noted in the first few posts. 

There are some AF speakers where Andy has said they should not be soldered because it can pull the solder off the internal ohm switch hardware and cause a malfunction. Nothing wrong with any of the designs in either camp, that require a push pin or a have a set screw terminal.


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## Porsche (Jun 29, 2008)

I've heard it all now. soldering wire to the speaker terminal can damage the VC, thats absurd unless you really have zero idea how to solder. do it right with slide on connectors, silly as hell, solder is your very best connection, period, unless you have no idea how to solder


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jrwalte said:


> I also believe you put the voice coil in danger when you solder. If you apply too much heat for too long, the heat will travel up and ruin it. Doesn't mean you can't solder. You just need to know what you doing and get in and out quick.


If you need to apply heat for that long, you really need to reevaluate your soldering techniques. Also, the tinsel lead would desolder from the terminal before the coil even felt anything. Also, coils see some pretty high temps. They can handle it (even if the heat somehow made it's way that far up). 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## number41 (Apr 10, 2017)

ckirocz28 said:


> Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.


Thanks. I will try them first. I actually did look at their site but couldn't find any so I'll just stop by.


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## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

ckirocz28 said:


> Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.


This.

I've done this for my last couple installs. I hate paying for shipping when it costs more than the part I'm buying.


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## bluesman1 (Mar 2, 2010)

In general, the blue insulated connectors accept 14-16 awg, the red 18-22 awg and the yellow 10-12 awg. 

Car speakers seem to be all over the place but the "standard" terminal size on musical instrument speakers is a .187 female. I (and many others) use a .205 male to connect to the .187 female. It's a snug but not insanely tight fit as the .187 would be. I can solder like a champ but I never solder to speaker terminals. I just don't find it necessary but it certainly can be done. I have replaced speaker terminal boards and had to de-solder and then re-solder the tinsel leads. Using a heat sink on the tinsel lead is the safest way to do it and that's what I do. May or may not be possible with some 6.5" and smaller drivers, depending on the basket and the size/type of heatsink. 

I'd just find the right size crimp connectors. Just my 2 cents.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

While I do agree soldering direct to the speaker terminals is your BEST connection I've found speakers are a lot harder to sell without practically giving them away when you're done with them if you have pigtails dangling off of the terminals. This is strictly my experience. The terminals on most speakers are made for female slide connectors and that's what I use now. Takes a bit of patience to get just the right fit but worth it in my opinion. Also, I HATE set screws on speakers and subs. Never fully trusted them. I wish Andy would completely do away with set screws on the Audiofrog drivers. Would also like to run an RE SEX sub again since I loved my old RE SE subs I owned but the set screws...and not sure if they sound the same as the ones made in Vegas years ago.


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> While I do agree soldering direct to the speaker terminals is your BEST connection I've found speakers are a lot harder to sell without practically giving them away when you're done with them if you have pigtails dangling off of the terminals. This is strictly my experience. The terminals on most speakers are made for female slide connectors and that's what I use now. Takes a bit of patience to get just the right fit but worth it in my opinion. Also, I HATE set screws on speakers and subs. Never fully trusted them. I wish Andy would completely do away with set screws on the Audiofrog drivers. Would also like to run an RE SEX sub again since I loved my old RE SE subs I owned but the set screws...and not sure if they sound the same as the ones made in Vegas years ago.


Soldering really isn't my forte, but I think if you were to heat it back up, apply some desoldering wick, and give her a wipe they might be a bit more presentable.

The screw terminals have been something I've given a bit of thought about recently as well. Having one rattle loose is concerning. Loctite on the set screw could electrically isolate it, and though it would probably still work it wouldn't be ideal. However I think that adding a dab of adhesive after they've already been torqued down might keep them in place without consequence. A drop of CA would be invisible, but the residue. Perhaps a smidge of silicone, high temp rtv, shoe goo, etc instead as it could be removed more easily and cleanly? I'm unsure, but it's something I've given thought to.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> If you need to apply heat for that long, you really need to reevaluate your soldering techniques. Also, the tinsel lead would desolder from the terminal before the coil even felt anything. Also, coils see some pretty high temps. They can handle it (even if the heat somehow made it's way that far up).
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


That was my misconception. I remembered reading some form of damage could occur. It was the tinsel. But not only could you de-solder it, you could also stiffen it, causing it to break over time. Most people do not know how to solder correctly and will use an entry level iron with too small of a tip.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jrwalte said:


> That was my misconception. I remembered reading some form of damage could occur. It was the tinsel. But not only could you de-solder it, you could also stiffen it, causing it to break over time. Most people do not know how to solder correctly and will use an entry level iron with too small of a tip.


it could stiffen if the pre-existing solder wicked up it more. but again, if someone is taking that long to solder to a terminal, their soldering is the issue. that said, there are speakers you shouldnt solder to. Audiofrog GS for example. Reason being the terminals are held in by plastic.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

DroogBC said:


> Soldering really isn't my forte, but I think if you were to heat it back up, apply some desoldering wick, and give her a wipe they might be a bit more presentable.
> 
> The screw terminals have been something I've given a bit of thought about recently as well. Having one rattle loose is concerning. Loctite on the set screw could electrically isolate it, and though it would probably still work it wouldn't be ideal. However I think that adding a dab of adhesive after they've already been torqued down might keep them in place without consequence. A drop of CA would be invisible, but the residue. Perhaps a smidge of silicone, high temp rtv, shoe goo, etc instead as it could be removed more easily and cleanly? I'm unsure, but it's something I've given thought to.


Blue thread lock would still be best. Most those other alternatives would either weaken and break with the vibrations or not be strong enough. Loctite would not isolate the connection. The majority of the connection is made with the metal cup the wire is inserted in, not the set screw that is clamping the wire down to said metal cup.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> it could stiffen if the pre-existing solder wicked up it more. but again, if someone is taking that long to solder to a terminal, their soldering is the issue. that said, there are speakers you shouldnt solder to. Audiofrog GS for example. Reason being the terminals are held in by plastic.


Not to mention...use _silver _solder <shudder>  

Silver solder and a small tip. You'd be surprised how long people will keep the heat on.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

I use a 100w blunt tip Rat Shack iron I've had forever with smaller diameter solder and always tin the wire first. I'm in and out like a thief in the night when I do have to solder something.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jrwalte said:


> Not to mention...use _silver _solder <shudder>
> 
> Silver solder and a small tip. You'd be surprised how long people will keep the heat on.


used silver solder for the first time last week. stuff smells like **** :laugh:


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> used silver solder for the first time last week. stuff smells like **** :laugh:


I always thought it was the flux.


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

jrwalte said:


> Blue thread lock would still be best. Most those other alternatives would either weaken and break with the vibrations or not be strong enough. Loctite would not isolate the connection. The majority of the connection is made with the metal cup the wire is inserted in, not the set screw that is clamping the wire down to said metal cup.


At the end of the day I concede it wouldn't make much difference, but if it were to isolate the screw by forming a barrier between the screw and the lug you would ultimately be cutting the amount of metal to metal surface area making contact between the terminal and wire in half. Or so I envision. It would still function, but could it function more optimally is the question.

I seriously doubt that a thin smear of rubberized adhesive bonding the exterior of the set screw and terminal is going to fail, unless you manually peel it away. Though I've been wrong before.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

You ever soldered with lead and not wear a mask? Made that mistake once when soldering ESC and motor for RC. Next day I had a sore throat. Took me two sessions to realize it was the soldering causing the sore throat. hah


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

DroogBC said:


> At the end of the day I concede it wouldn't make much difference, but if it were to isolate the screw by forming a barrier between the screw and the lug you would ultimately be cutting the amount of metal to metal surface area making contact between the terminal and wire in half. Or so I envision. It would still function, but could it function more optimally is the question.


I haven't done any tests so only my opinion, but I see the set screw making 0 difference on connectivity. It's about surface contact for reduced resistance. The cup has much more surface than the screw and I'd say more than enough to suffice the connection you're making, making the set screw irrelevant.


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## nstaln (Feb 11, 2009)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> While I do agree soldering direct to the speaker terminals is your BEST connection I've found speakers are a lot harder to sell without practically giving them away when you're done with them if you have pigtails dangling off of the terminals. This is strictly my experience. The terminals on most speakers are made for female slide connectors and that's what I use now. Takes a bit of patience to get just the right fit but worth it in my opinion. Also, I HATE set screws on speakers and subs. Never fully trusted them. I wish Andy would completely do away with set screws on the Audiofrog drivers. Would also like to run an RE SEX sub again since I loved my old RE SE subs I owned but the set screws...and not sure if they sound the same as the ones made in Vegas years ago.


X2 on the AF screw-down terminals...I have had nothing but problems with the wire connections for my GB10's and GB25's. The GB10's have tiny openings for wire and if you tighten them the smallest bit too tight it cuts the wire...i even tried tinning the wire to make it a bit stronger and I still had issues. The GB25's are a bit more forgiving but both drivers ended up having issues with the internal connections from the terminal to the tinsel leads(intermittent connectivity)...I eventually had to solder wire leads to both terminals of both drivers...that really sucks considering their price-point. I would have preferred good ol'fashioned tabs to just connect spade connectors to. Oh well...they sound great and guess that's what counts.


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

Do they not make ferrules that small?

If not, you may be able to pull the screw and file it a bit if there are any rough edges causing the wire snipping. I've encountered this a bunch in another hobby of sorts, and that sometimes helps. I've sourced different set screws altogether once or twice because of this issue.


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

jrwalte said:


> I haven't done any tests so only my opinion, but I see the set screw making 0 difference on connectivity. It's about surface contact for reduced resistance. The cup has much more surface than the screw and I'd say more than enough to suffice the connection you're making, making the set screw irrelevant.


I agree. Practically speaking, it likely makes zero difference. Still though, some people do go to extremes when it comes to their wires and connections in the audio field. The type to gravitate towards something like graphine contact enhancers might balk at the idea of losing even a small fraction of the connection which they spent big bucks wiring up. 

The only thing that even gives me pause is the power one might be dealing with when it comes to a sub. If the connection is slightly compromised to begin with and things manage to loosen up it might be inclined to heat that terminal block up. But if you're at that point your biggest issue isn't an abundance of loctite.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

About 10 years ago I built a box for a pair of Quantum 10's. Ported box for the trunk of a former co-worker's Caprice...ANYWAY, one of the set screws on his dvc subs was mostly stripped out. Installer who he forced to rush the original install and sorry excuse for a box musta done it. I was able to get somewhat of a bite and screwed them down. He tried to rush me but I told him if he wanted it done right he'd have to wait another day!


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

9 times out of 10 it's either cheap tools, cheap screws, or a combination of the two. Nothing will strip ya faster than a cheap bit that doesn't seat properly.. except perhaps some of the I can't believe it's not butter screws that ship with some otherwise good products.

Not like we're torquing down a control arm to 100 ft-lbs, it's a set screw to hold a wire. We really shouldn't have to be terrified of stripping them. But terrified we are, lol, because god help you once you round it out.


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## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

a good set of hex tools goes a long way. I know very well from my RC Heli hobby. It is not fun getting out a loctited rounded out bolt/set screw.


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## DroogBC (Nov 15, 2018)

Amen!


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## rxh0272 (Jul 26, 2020)

Hi guys:

i have Morel Maximo 6 component set. I soldered the connections onto the speakers. I didn’t burn or damage anything. U just need to do it right and fast.

now, 9 months after install, one of 4 mids is lightly blown. Only makes slight crackling sound at low volume. Still outputs sound at moderate and high volume with no noticeable distortion at such volume levels. It’s actually difficult to hear at all.

crutchfield is sending out a replacement, and I need to send back this blown one as still in warranty.

does anyone have any experience of warranty refusals due to soldering connections onto the speakers?

thanks, rob


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## lithium (Oct 29, 2008)

Just desolder it and clean up the terminal with a little wick. Doubt it would be an issue.


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## scooterfrog (Aug 28, 2019)

Porsche said:


> I've heard it all now. soldering wire to the speaker terminal can damage the VC, thats absurd unless you really have zero idea how to solder. do it right with slide on connectors, silly as hell, solder is your very best connection, period, unless you have no idea how to solder


this, 
i like the option of the solder with the quick disconnect. a cheaper option is a 2 pole trailer disconnect, but he yellow connectors are cool


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## 156546 (Feb 10, 2017)

No one is going to damage the voice coil by soldering to the terminal. The tinsel leads are another story entirely. You probably won't damage them, but you could apply enough solder (if you're not good at this) that the solder would travel up the leads and make a portion of them stiff. This is not a good idea. 

In some of our speakers (GS, specifically), the basket is plastic and inside the basket there's a PCB to which the terminals are soldered that also holds the crossover (in coaxial models). So, turn the speaker over and solder to the terminal for too long and the solder flows away from the terminal to board connection and the speaker doesn't work. But no matter how many times I suggest to people that soldering to these is a bad idea because it melts the plastic and the solder on the PCB, they argue with me because "solder is the best connection"...and this despite sending them excerpts from the NASA connection guide. Solder for terminal to board. Crimp for wire to terminal. Crimp for splices unless you plan to strain relieve the splice. 

The spade lug terminals work great, despite what people think. Remember those old washing machines and dryers that used to last for 40 years? This was how almost every connection inside those things was made. There are probably 50 billion or more of those connections on earth and they all work fine. But someone who crimps with a pair of pliers unless the terminal is big enough to hit with a hammer says they suck...


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