# What solder do you use?



## Gentoo (May 22, 2007)

Today I picked up a Weller WP35 iron. But I've never actually bought solder. Which is the best kind to get for soldering the speaker wires and terminal ends together?

I've seen lead free 97/3, or 60/40 with lead. What kind you you use? 

Thanks!


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

60/40 rosin core, no lead. I keep a small spool of the uber thin stuff for fine soldering like PCB surface mount or through hole component soldering, and a large roll of the cheap thick stuff for general use. molex pins, component or home audio crossover soldering, etc. bulk applications.


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## Gentoo (May 22, 2007)

Where can I find that? I have only seen 60/40 where the 40 is lead. Only no lead ones I found were 97/3 silver ones.


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## Rbsarve (Aug 26, 2005)

Use a 58/40/2 Mix of Sn/Pb/Ag from Kester. Lovely stuff - will hate when it runs out and have to go to lead free.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I use Kester 44 or Kester 245. The 245 os a "no clean" solder that leaves very little mess behind. Kester 44 is the 'ol trusty. 245 seems to flow a little different and it seems you have to leave the heat on a little longer. so if you are slopy or a first timer then it may not be for you if you are used to using 44 or something that flows like butta


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## NoFlyZone (Jan 27, 2007)

I use silver solder from WBT. 4% fine silver, halogen free-flux. It's expensive yes, but it's design is for audio transmission.  I figured if you asked the question, your looking for the good stuff


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## Lightninghoof (Aug 6, 2006)

I use the stuff they sell at Wal-Mart.  
I use it in place of butt connectors or t-taps. Works fine for simple car projects like that.


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

Cardas.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Lightninghoof said:


> I use the stuff they sell at Wal-Mart.
> I use it in place of butt connectors or t-taps. Works fine for simple car projects like that.


x2 except replace walfart with ratshit


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

Gentoo said:


> Where can I find that? I have only seen 60/40 where the 40 is lead. Only no lead ones I found were 97/3 silver ones.


I spoke too quickly. yes my solder is 40% lead. I should have said no acid.


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## Rbsarve (Aug 26, 2005)

NoFlyZone said:


> I use silver solder from WBT. 4% fine silver, halogen free-flux. It's expensive yes, but it's design is for audio transmission.  I figured if you asked the question, your looking for the good stuff


No offence, but WBT & Cardas stuff i simply off the shelf solder from reputable solder manufacturers at a bit of markup. 

And I am prepared to give a brand new Seas Reference set away to anyone that can hear the difference of a connection made with Wal-mart solder and sliver-high-end ultra pure whatsit solder... In a double blind test.  

Any soldered connection whill have a resistance of microOhms, while the materials used and the design of the connection point design whill have resistances 100 times that.

Sliver simply makes it flow better.

(My other job is designing connectors for cell phones and I have over five years experience in soldering technology and processes... )


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## phatredpt (Feb 22, 2006)

60/40 tin lead
Kester 44 or Multicore

If it was good enough for Grandpa...it's good enough for me!


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## mathman (Jun 15, 2005)

I like the silver (eutectic) solder – seems to have less problems with cold joints. Kester is fine, and you can probably find it locally. Parts Express has a house brand of silver solder now, and I’m sure there are others. I’ve also used Cardas and couldn’t tell a difference.

Cheap solder isn’t that bad to work with, but I find the silver just that much easier so I pay a few extra bucks. If you’re patient and cheap, silver isn’t necessary (to me).


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## exmaxima1 (May 31, 2007)

mathman said:


> I like the silver (eutectic) solder – seems to have less problems with cold joints.


I use lots of regular Kester 60/40 solder building speakers, but for my personal projects I always grab the eutectic stuff with full-strength activated rosin. It flows "like butta", as posted above, and the rosin will work even on 40 year old tube equipment (I build/repair guitar amps for hobby). Many times you can get a deal on this type solder as many companies were forced to go to mildly activated rosin for their government contracts---I stashed about 20 lbs of it from a dumpster where I once worked. Check eBay....

Matthew


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## Gentoo (May 22, 2007)

Great responses guys!

I just want something that is easy to use since soldering is new to me. Am I reading this correct that silver solder is easier to use?


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

When I built a tube amp kit, I bought a pound of Cardas solder from Sonic Craft...I wanted to splurge and they have the best price on the solder than anyone else. It melts and flows out super easy...much better than the typical silver solder that I have used in the past.

And a pound of solder...datsalotofsolder.


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## Nathan P (Jun 9, 2007)

whatever I can find in a large roll locally, for the cheapest. Always use acid free rosin core though. One thing for me, I have never used flux. Not once. Never had a problem with any of my joints. guess I'm just lucky haha. Right now I have stuff from Lowes, works fine. Get finer stuff if you're soldering something delicate. Ask me how I know


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## Gentoo (May 22, 2007)

So, would this this be the best to get?

20' is enough to do my wiring, right?


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Told you, Sonic Craft has the best prices on Cardas solder:

www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/solder/cardas.htm


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

I will sell you 20ft of Cardas for $5 shipped.
[email protected]


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

And for more on solder (puts on flame suit since this comes from Cardas website):

Solder 
Q.) I'd like to know what makes Cardas solder better than all other solders for audio work. What advantage does Cardas solder have over other eutectic solders that makes it worth its much higher price? On the one hand, there is Jennifer of Jena Labs claiming that no other solder should ever be used, and on the other hand there are people in DIY chat rooms that say these exotic audiophile solders are a waste of money and no better than products like Kester. Thanks for your response. - Michael 

A.) Hi Michael. The vast majority of solders in the world are slurries or mixtures such as 60/40 tin lead solder. They go through a slurry stage as they solidify wherein one component solidifies first and then another. The result is a solder connection rather than a joint. Eutectic solders such as Kesters Ultra pure Tin/lead Silver are in fact excellent because they solidify at a temperature lower than any of the component parts thus they form a solder joint rather than a connection - the key here is the eutectic formula which must be very precise - the solders are obviously different in that they set up with a mirror finish rather than a dull finish, the reason they do this is because they solidify as a unit. The week link in the solders is contamination - the molten solder easily dissolves other metals, this is no problem if you are soldering to a metal that is part of the eutectic mixture (such as tin or lead) you will get contiguous flow right in to the joint (easy to see) but if you solder to a dissimilar metal (such as copper or silver) you will see an obvious dulling at the connection where the eutectic formula fails and and the continuous joint becomes a connection. Cardas Quad Eutectic is tin, lead silver, copper, eutectic. The results are obvious. Most highend products use this solder and other cable manufactures have been using it for over a decade - to them it represents good sound and absolute reliability. - George


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