# Jl audio 10w6v2 sql enclosures?



## malcris (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi all,
I've got a new gen 10w6v2 in a .90cu ft sealed box powered by a jl 500/1v1 and I can't seem to get this thing to play low........I tried the factory recommended .625 enclosure with supremly lackluster results (it turned the speaker into a glorified midbass). Now with the larger enclosure this thing seems to bottom out pretty easily. any experiences out there would be appreciated. I bought this sub because it should play pretty loud and is thought to have the best sound quality of the jl line. I'm beginning to think ID or morel is the way to go 'cause this thing just won't take any power below 40hz


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## Blister64 (Jun 13, 2010)

Hey malcris, I have a 10w6v2 in the prowedge box that JL premakes. Powered it with a 500/1v2. I thought this thing pounded pretty damn good, but I listen to mainly rock. I did notice though that the low low end seemed to be a bit softer. Did you use polyfill in the 0.625 box you had? Mine does and that should help a little bit. I'm planning on buying another 10W6v2 and 500/1v2 to put in my new ride and making boxes for both. Just reading around other forums, I've heard that making a box slightly bigger than what JL recommends had pretty good results. I think it was around the 0.75-0.8 cu ft range. That's what I'll be doing, but any advise on here will be helpful too! Hope that helps you out a little. Be sure to post what you decide to do and how it sounds!


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

Read through this...maybe you missed something on the set-up. I had the same question a few days ago.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...orum/83512-need-help-sub-bass-end-things.html


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## SnoopyHayes (Apr 10, 2010)

I have ran the 10w6v2's in .7 cubes and they went very low. People that heard them swore without looking at the box they were ported. I was running around 700w to each sub and they sounded great. One of the best sounding subs I have owned.

Have you tried changing the way the sub is facing? Checked to make sure it is in phase? Something must be wrong for it not to play much below 40hz.


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## Dangerranger (Apr 12, 2006)

malcris said:


> Hi all,
> I've got a new gen 10w6v2 in a .90cu ft sealed box powered by a jl 500/1v1 and I can't seem to get this thing to play low........I tried the factory recommended .625 enclosure with supremly lackluster results (it turned the speaker into a glorified midbass). Now with the larger enclosure this thing seems to bottom out pretty easily. any experiences out there would be appreciated. I bought this sub because it should play pretty loud and is thought to have the best sound quality of the jl line. I'm beginning to think ID or morel is the way to go 'cause this thing just won't take any power below 40hz


ID or Morel wouldn't offer any improvement unless your sub is just flat out faulty in itself. I owned 2 12W6v2s and was extremely happy with the results, hate that I had to sell them honestly but I changed vehicles they weren't practical for my truck as far as size.

General setup issues: double check everything in your setup. Physically, I guess making sure the voice coils aren't wired out of phase or to the wrong impedence would be a start (The W6v2 does have that more complicated terminal jumper system, after all) no big air leaks in the box, trace all wires, etc.

As far as the amp, as the 500/1 has one of the more elaborate crossover setups, check the infrasonic filter, turn off if you must, since it's adjustable from 15-60hz that could be an issue...make sure that the LPF is set up correctly. If you're running off a HU make sure the crossover there is ok and that it's on the right preout, if piggyback with another amplifier make sure the preamp outs from said amp are set to full range instead of filtered. Make sure your RCA cables function correctly. Set the input sensitivity by JL's recommendations since it has both a high and low voltage input option....we've all done little forgetful things like this. Hell when I first setup my truck i forgot to reset the crossover on the bottom of my arc XXk and looked at the sub first when really it's the little simple stuff that gets you 99% of the time.

Now, assuming everything is setup correctly, evaluating the system would be the next logical step. If you have a larger vehicle like an SUV or just a large car, or a car with a lot of restriction from the trunk to the cabin (think BMW or similar with a trunk sealed off like a sherman tank), then I'd consider venting the trunk into the cabin via taking rear speakers out or cutting a hole in the package tray. In a large acoustic environment like an SUV, ANY 10" sub is going to struggle more just because the cabin gain isn't as great. If that's the case consider a ported enclosure, more output, less distortion, and generally an octave lower extension. 

Now, how is your setup? what vehicle? where is the box located? etc. details certainly help us help you


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## malcris (Feb 4, 2010)

Guys thanks for the feedback, so here goes,

Vehicle: E53 X5 (2003)
Stock Head (converted twisted pair speaker outs to RCA's, got noise from the balanced outputs then got a LOC/DSP/Crossover)
DQL-8 integrated crossover/loc
a/d/s PH30.2 running 3-way active front stage
DLS up2.5's (up high on the forward dash location, chambered) BP 800-3.45
Hertz 1.1's (stock location in front doors) HP 4.15
Morel mw-166-4 (front and rear doors) BP 80-700 (they seem to run much better crossed this high)
Jl 500/1v1 running sub (all jl processing is off) LP 63hz
sub jumpers are configured for 4 ohm

all slopes are 24db L-R's

sub is in a custom wedge enclosure of approx .9 cuft (approx 1/2 lb of stuffing) facing the rear of the vehicle, I have played with numerous locations thinking that it may have been out of phase. I have also tried a smaller enclosure of about .75 cuft with the same results

The big issue is that it just can't keep up with the front stage/rear fill setup, as soon as I go loud I've got to crank up the ssf to about 35hz or else the sub will bottom out pretty easily. It's only 4 mths old and I broke it in slowly for about 3 weeks I'm assuming I'm gonna need another sub or go with at least a 12". Could it be the amp clipping?, do you think I need more power....I've got a dls a6 in the closet, I considered adjusting the sub to 2 ohms and trying the dls.....dunno?


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## Dangerranger (Apr 12, 2006)

malcris said:


> Guys thanks for the feedback, so here goes,
> 
> sub jumpers are configured for 4 ohm


??? It's a dual 4 ohm sub. If it's wired in series it's an 8 ohm load, if in parallel it's 2 ohm. If you've only got one coil hooked up it'll be 4 ohm technically but it'll only have half the motor strength meaning it'll wreak havoc on the sound

If the coils are in series, then you've got yourself an 8 ohm load meaning the sub is getting 250W. So it's very possible you're driving the amplifier into clipping when you try to turn it up.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

Sadly, the 10w6v2 models with a pathetic F3 of 56 Hz even in .9 cubic feet. Sorry, but you are NOT going to get any decent sub bass response out of that in an X5 due to the fact that your cabin is open, spacious, and has relatively little to no cabin gain. 

If you have the room to do an external port, I'd suggest tuning it to 28 hz then trying it with your subwoofer. That would at least get your predicted F3 into the 30 Hz range versus the glorified midbass range you have it in now. 

Unfortunately, I'd say that a 10 is the wrong subwoofer for your vehicle.


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## Dangerranger (Apr 12, 2006)

ChrisB said:


> Sadly, the 10w6v2 models with a pathetic F3 of 56 Hz even in .9 cubic feet. Sorry, but you are NOT going to get any decent sub bass response out of that in an X5 due to the fact that your cabin is open, spacious, and has relatively little to no cabin gain.


Dunno your calculator, but the 10W6v2 has an F3 around 46 hz in the recommended .625 cu ft enclosure and it's nearly a .8 Qtc, which is lower than the majority of 10" subs in a similar sized enclosure such as an IDQ or similar.

But I will agree that a 10" is a bit weak sealed in an SUV. Ported would be a better option. But I prefer ported in the majority of applications if done correctly so I'm admittedly biased


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

Dangerranger said:


> Dunno your calculator, but the 10W6v2 has an F3 around 46 hz in the recommended .625 cu ft enclosure and it's nearly a .8 Qtc, which is lower than most small sealed box designed 10" subs for car audio....


BassBox Pro with both coils wired in Parallel. Granted, it could be wrong because I haven't keyed in the parameters to model the subwoofer in WinISD.

Driver Properties from their database:

Company: JL Audio Inc
Model: 10W6v2-D4
Available = Yes
Last update: 09-Aug-2002
Type: Standard one-way driver
Comment: W6v2 series
Shape: Round
Piston Type: Concave
Fs = 28.5 Hz
Qms = 8.458
Vas = 1.18 cu.ft
Xmax = 0.598 in
Xmax (parallel) = 0.598 in
Xmax (series) = 0.598 in
Sd = 51.46 sq.in
Qes = 0.994
Qes (parallel) = 0.497
Qes (series) = 0.497
Re = 3.15 ohms
Re (parallel) = 1.575 ohms
Re (series) = 6.3 ohms
Z = 4 ohms
Z (parallel) = 2 ohms
Z (series) = 8 ohms
Pe = 200 watts
Pe (parallel) = 400 watts
Pe (series) = 400 watts
Qts = 0.89
Qts (parallel) = 0.469
Qts (series) = 0.469
no (parallel) = 0.149
no (series) = 0.149
1-W SPL (parallel) = 83.7
1-W SPL (series) = 83.7
Acoustic data: Not present



Dangerranger said:


> But I will agree that a 10" is a bit weak sealed in an SUV. Ported would be a better option. But I prefer ported in the majority of applications if done correctly so I'm admittedly biased


Sadly, SUVs need cone area.


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## Dangerranger (Apr 12, 2006)

ChrisB said:


> BassBox Pro with both coils wired in Parallel. Granted, it could be wrong because I haven't keyed in the parameters to model the subwoofer in WinISD.
> 
> Driver Properties from their database:
> 
> ...


Don't know how it came up with an F3 of 56hz but their parameters are right for the sub. But modeled in ISD you get an F3 of 46hz and Fc of 48 with a Qtc of .797, which is exactly as JL states.


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## Jedslck (Dec 17, 2010)

ive got the 10w6v2. im unsure of how to model a sub in order to find its optimum internal volume. i'm looking to go with a ported enclosure tuned somewhere around 30 hz. its for a jeep wrangler unlimited LJ. any help would be greatly appreciated.


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