# 2016 Cayman GTS (another Porsche)



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

This would not be possible without the work of the other Porsche audio threads on this forum, Rennlist, and Planet-9. These forums are invaluable so documenting this journey is my way of paying it forward.

*INTRO*
Here is my 2016 Cayman GTS (6MT). After owning it for 3 months and 500 miles my only complaints are that the gearing is too tall and the audio system is disappointing. We’re going to be remedying the latter issue in this thread.









at the dealership










delivery day​
*SOURCE*
Teyes CC2 Plus (Android Head Unit)
This was chosen for its interface, resolution, and connectivity. The only traditional head unit with a decent interface is the Sony, but you still need to plug in your phone to get Google Maps or your audio apps running. Also, the screen resolution is 800x640. The only head units from a traditional manufacturer with a decent resolution are the Kenwood Excelon Reference at 1280x720 and those start at twice the price of the Teyes. Finally, I don’t care about the (likely) horrible performance of the Teyes high-level or pre-amp outputs. This is because it has optical and digital coax out so the DSP can handle the digital-to-analog conversion anyways.











*AMPLIFIER/DSP*
Helix P Six MK2
I chose this amp because of its widely acclaimed DSP with optical input, a compact size, and 140w rms at 4 ohms it can send to the midbass. I will be adding a Helix Director under the head unit to use as a volume knob and to switch between single seat and 2-seat tunes (something like this). I would have preferred a Helix Conductor instead, but I understand it doesn't work with this amp.











*TWEETERS*
Scanspeak D3004/6040-00 (Beryllium Version)
I have always wanted beryllium tweeters, enough said.

Morel MT 450
The Scanspeaks, being 62mm in diameter turned out to be too large to fit in the factory tweeter locations. However, the Morel MT-450 have a 1.1in diameter driver and an outside diameter of only 43mm in diameter.










*MIDRANGE*
Undecided, but considering

Scanspeak 10F/4424G
Stereo Integrity M3 Carbon
Focal ES 100mm K2
Hybrid Audio Legatia L3V2
whatever this forum suggests
The Scanspeak 10F is not only the cheapest option but seems to be the benchmark. One question I had: are more expensive midranges really better in some way?

Audio Development MM4
I chose these because they are just about the largest driver that will fit, yet extremely compact (104mm outside diameter). They were also highly rated by Geo in his subjective midrange comparison.




























*MIDBASS*
Dynaudio MW182
To help get the most out of these I will be doing 33% coverage of the outer skin, vapor barrier, and door panel with CLD tiles (Dynamat, because it has the best performance to weight), using Resonix CCF decoupler between the harness and door skin.




















*RTA*
Mini DSP UMIK-X
It’s important to me to have consistency in measurements, a spatial average instead of a single point, a tune for when my wife is in the car with me, and to be able to do all this in a timely fashion. The UMIK-X looked like the most cost-effective way to do all of those things. As an added bonus I will also be able to tune our theater room and my and my wife’s office.

*Thingverse 3D STL Files*: Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects


----------



## DiamondFanatic (Dec 26, 2007)

Nice! Looks like a great project. You’re in luck there is a big midrange and tweeter comparison being done right now by Ge0 (who also drives a Porsche).









A novices comparison between some pretty sweet midranges...


OK. I can't find a setting anywhere that allows me to normalize each individual trace. What do I do next?




www.diymobileaudio.com


----------



## ejeffrey (Oct 8, 2015)

I'm in for this one. Looks like great equipment, and I've always been a fan of Dyns.

These are amazing cars - I don't think people realize just how good they drive.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*PREVIOUS BUILDS*
Before getting into the build part, I want to make a post to give some background on my car audio experiences.


*10 YEARS AGO*
2006 Pontiac GTO (6MT)
I spent a ton on this system but never ended up adding the JL W6v2 in the spare tire well to tie it all together. I also made some terrible design decisions, like running the midbass mono in the rear shelf. Finally, I spent way too much effort trying to get components that were all the same brands. For example, going with the Alpine Imprint System when the JBL MS-8 would have been a the better choice for me at the time. That said the SQL from this system was amazing.

Alpine-X305S Head Unit
Alpine Imprint Processor
JL C5 650 (front)
ZR 800cw (in rear shelf)
JL C2 650 (rear fill)
JL G4500 powering mids
JL A4300 powering tweeters
JL G1300 powering midbass
JL G1700 powering subwoofer (I never got around to installing)




















*15 YEARS AGO*
1992 Lexus SC400
This was about 15 years ago. My memory is a little bit spotty, but I do remember I spent way too much on the subs and not nearly enough on the rest of the system.

Kenwood DPX-U70 Head Unit
Cheap components up front, powered by a cheap 4x50w amp.
4x JL 10w3v3 subwoofers
2x JL 500/1 amps


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Awesome. Subscribing for this one. I've got a '16 GT4 with the Musicar NW kit. They make adapters to fit the 9" Morel Elate Titanium Mid-basses, as well as precut sound dampening to seal the doors. The 981s sound really good once tuned and with good power on the huge mid-basses that fit in the doors.

I've got the crappy base head unit. Will be jealous of your head unit once you've got it installed and looking right

Looking great in white btw! My first mod would be these bad boys


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*OEM CONNECTIONS*
One of the requirements I have for myself is making everything easily reversible and as close to factory looking as possible. No holes will be drilled and no factory harnesses will be cut. 

Thanks to the threads by @flgfish and @Muu I was able to find the connectors for the factory amplifier. The small connector (1-1534840-1) contains the analog amp inputs and remote signal. I picked it up on eBay as an Audi part (4F0 972 112). 










The large connector is used in several German cars and connects to the speakers themselves, Technic PnP has one for the BMW F10 5-series that works. Note that one of the mounting tabs need to be cut off for the BMW connector to fit the Porsche wiring harness.










With the connectors in hand, I needed to re-pin them for my application. I was able to find the wiring diagrams at the end of a service manual in a Planet-9 thread. There are sets of diagrams for (1) cars with or without navigation, (2) with the base (CDR-31) or premium (PCM 3.1) radio, and (3) with the ASK, Bose, or Burmeister amplifiers. I have the Premium Radio, without Navigation, and ASK amp. _Diagrams attached in the next post._

The large connector from Technic PnP came with nice large gauge copper wire. I just re-pined and labelled the large harness to match the factory diagram. This was also my first-time using ferrules. I won't be using the rear-fill or center channel but I kept those in the harness just in case I ever change my mind.










The small amp connector was using incredibly thin wire. For the moment I only need the remote wire from this connector. However, I still wanted to re-pin this harness with better wire for the amp inputs because I might want to go back to the factory head unit one day.

I needed new pins for the small harness. After some research on TE Connectivity and Mouser’s websites I was able to find two versions of the pins that would fit the harness. The standard pins (5-963716-1) were sold out everywhere, but I was able to find 25 of the gold version (5-963716-2) and get them shipped to my house for $25. Note that (5-963716-3) is the silver version. I also picked up some 24awg tinned copper wire from Altex, a local computer parts store to use for this harness. I’m too lazy to match the factory colors this time.



















I want to keep the factory USB and AUX ports in the glovebox. I hate an aftermarket cord dangling next to a useless factory port in the glovebox. I found the pinouts on the OEM harness and the new head unit for the AUX input and used a run of shielded cable to make the connection on my adapter harness. The only thing the new head unit doesn’t support is *Aux Return. I’m not really sure what that is. *But the OEM AUX port should work now.









shielded aux to factory adapter harness​


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

This is what a car without nav, with a PCM 3.1, and with Sound Package Plus looks like. 


























Wiring will be different based on those options. Refer to the back of the service manual in this Planet-9 thread for your specific car.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Anu2g said:


> Awesome. Subscribing for this one. I've got a '16 GT4 with the Musicar NW kit. They make adapters to fit the 9" Morel Elate Titanium Mid-basses, as well as precut sound dampening to seal the doors. The 981s sound really good once tuned and with good power on the huge mid-basses that fit in the doors.
> 
> I've got the crappy base head unit. Will be jealous of your head unit once you've got it installed and looking right
> 
> Looking great in white btw! My first mod would be these bad boys


Thanks! I did just do the clear sidemarkers. 

I actually contacted Musicar before this build. They charge a very reasonable price for that upgrade. But they have a one-size fits all approach.

I wanted to change the aftermarket head unit, use optical or digital coax to the amp/DSP, and add a physical controller to switch between 2-seat and 1-seat tunes. After I barraged them with those questions I didn't hear back from them. That said, it did take me about a month to message them back after they outlined pricing. Also, I can't really blame them for not taking time to write a response to somebody who was just asking complicated questions.

Looking at my spreadsheets this should come to about the same cost as their upgrade, maybe 10-25% cheaper, except I will get to upgrade my head unit and own a really nice RTA mic.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*NEW CONNECTIONS *
Given the length of the power wire run and how much headroom this amp should have, 6awg should be perfect. It’s also lighter and easier to run behind trim. The only downside is that 6awg is difficult to find. The JL Marine Amplifier install kit is the only mainstream product you can buy off the shelf but its $200 and would mostly be a waste.

Luckily I found a place called CE Auto Electric Supply that sells it by the foot. When I ordered I didn’t know what to expect but when I got a close look it seemed like it was really high quality, flexible, tinned OFC.

*







*









I’m going to be running the power wire to the factory power distribution block. Hopefully, there will be an open slot inside where I can drop a 60 or 40 amp fuse and connect. If not, I purchased a normal fuse holder as a backup.


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

1) SWEET car. My somewhat attainable dream car is a GT4. 


2)...


DriverDaily said:


> To help get the most out of these I will be doing 33% coverage of the outer skin, vapor barrier, and door panel with CLD tiles (Dynamat, because it has the best performance to weight), using Resonix CCF decoupler between the harness and door skin.


See the updated results in "The Deadening" Facebook group. No longer the case


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

SkizeR said:


> See the updated results in "The Deadening" Facebook group. No longer the case


Of course, my Dynamat just arrived this week. haha 🤦‍♂️


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Look forward to this one.

Have you seen the speaker adapters that James at RennSpec does?

Also look at the Studio Incar Cayman for inspiration....


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Muu said:


> Have you seen the speaker adapters that James at RennSpec does?


I sure have, as soon as I settle on a midrange I'm going to order the adapters and the mw182 package from him.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Nice work!


----------



## santirx (Oct 7, 2020)

Love your work... and your car.. very nice!


----------



## RTB (May 5, 2021)

Awesome, looking forward to your midrange selection! Just got rid of a track built m4 and now giving the mod bug attention to my dd 16' Prius until I graduate to P Car. Had a 700rwhp c6 before so I love seeing these build logs! 🏎🏎🏎


----------



## asnatlas (Apr 4, 2021)

Awesome work @*DriverDaily*


----------



## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Does the unit have digital volume control?


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Huckleberry Sound said:


> Does the unit have digital volume control?


I believe so. I haven't tested mine, but I've seen the volume work on a Joying. The Joyings use the same processor, similar firmware, and are made by the same manufacturer. I would ask on AliExpress before ordering if it's a deal breaker.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Thank you so much!


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*MICROPHONE*
Unfortunately, I have read that the OEM microphone will not work with an aftermarket head unit. This is because Porsche uses two mics to implement some sort of noise reduction processing and each has a funny 5K and 6K ohm resistance. Normally this would mean clipping a cheap lav mic somewhere, much uglier than the factory mics which are integrated into the steering column.

However, in the Japanese market this car was equipped with a Clarion head unit _as standard_. Porsche has graciously created a microphone that will work with aftermarket head units. The part number for the microphone is 991 646 311 00 and the 3.5mm adapter wire is 991 612 067 50.

I wasn't 100% certain this would work when I ordered it, but after testing it by plugging it into the 3.5mm mic jack in my computer I can hear the audio from the mic.

For some reason both the mic and the harness came with male pins. I ordered a new connector from Mouser (5-1355397-3) and also made sure to order some female pins (5-963715-5) that fit it.










Factory Dual Microphones (inside steering column cover)​









OEM Headunit in Japanese Market​








Preparation for Navigation System Japan​









Confirmed to Work With Any 3.5mm Mic Jack​
*PROTOTYPING PT1*
After reading @Ge0 's review thread I finally settled on a midrange: the *Audio Development MM4*. It was under $600 from Italy (since we won't pay VAT).

Using the the Esotar^2 adapter by @flgfish as a starting point, created an adapter for the 91mm ID and 104.4mm OD of the Audio Development MM4. I will have to wait until it arrives to get the location of the mounting holes.

Using the measurements taken by @phroenips and this Planet-9 thread I modeled the rough area I have to work in under the passenger seat. From there I was able to come up with a first-draft of a Musicar-style mount for my Helix P Six Mk2 amp.










Initial Midrange Adapter​









Rough Working Area​










Initial Amp Rack Design​Here is the 3D .stl file I created file for my Helix P-Six Mk2 in Tinkercad.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

So musicar choose those mounting as their amp was supported from above, I think you could do a simpler plate that uses the factory mount points, with captive threads for the amp feet.

Loving the effort to OEM integrate, will the car need to be coded to delete the factory HU? Are you going to run a optical line from the HU to amp?


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Muu said:


> So musicar choose those mounting as their amp was supported from above, I think you could do a simpler plate that uses the factory mount points, with captive threads for the amp feet.


I wanted to mount the amp face up using three studs for the factory amp and a simpler bracket, just like you did. But, when modeled the area I realized the Helix P Six is too wide. It touches the factory studs, just barely.





























After finding Musicar's Flickr (and the treasure trove of install images) I saw just how big the Mosconi amp they use is. I believe they remove the factory studs and mount it in such an obtuse way for clearance purposes. That's why I copied their upside down bracket in my last post.


















However, just now it occurred to me that if I remove one of the stud mounts I can fit the amplifier without mounting it upside down. Also, plugging cables and wires into the amp will be much easier with it mounted to the floor.














Muu said:


> Loving the effort to OEM integrate, will the car need to be coded to delete the factory HU? Are you going to run a optical line from the HU to amp?


Yep, going to use optical output from the HU into the Helix amp.

I've already had the car running with the head unit disconnected and it didn't trigger any warning lights. Also, the radio removal shelf and head unit install kits from Suncoast also mention nothing about coding. So hopefully not!

Do you still happen to have the measurements for your amp bracket? I'd like to see if my mounting holes bracket line up with yours.


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

DriverDaily said:


> I sure have, as soon as I settle on a midrange I'm going to order the adapters and the mw182 package from him.


I wouldnt. Customer supplied us some rennspec adapters and they didn't come close to fitting lol

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> I wouldnt. Customer supplied us some rennspec adapters and they didn't come close to fitting lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


Which adapters didn't come close to fitting?


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ge0 said:


> Which adapters didn't come close to fitting?


911 tweeter adapters. Holes were far off, and the tweeters sit too low and the terminals hit the hvac vent, never mind with the large spade connectors they included. 

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> 911 tweeter adapters. Holes were far off, and the tweeters sit too low and the terminals hit the hvac vent, never mind with the large spade connectors they included.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


Ahhh. OK. I've tried his midrange mounts and they were spot on. I made my own tweeter adapters for the TBM's. Looking to install them in the next week or two. You have me concerned about the mounting hole locations now. James (Rennspec) and I grabbed our starting models from Muu's 911 adapters posted here earlier this year.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

SkizeR said:


> 911 tweeter adapters. Holes were far off, and the tweeters sit too low and the terminals hit the hvac vent, never mind with the large spade connectors they included.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


The 911 adapters wouldn't fit in a Cayman/Boxster (expected), or wouldn't fit in a 911 (surprising)?

From the Rennspec thread on Rennlist both his tweeter adapters and his mw182 adapters fit well.

I will be making my own adapters for the Scanspeak tweeters, similar to Geo's solution for the Focals.


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

DriverDaily said:


> The 911 adapters wouldn't fit in a Cayman/Boxster (expected), or wouldn't fit in a 911 (surprising)?
> 
> From the Rennspec thread on Rennlist both his tweeter adapters and his mw182 adapters fit well.
> 
> ...


You should be able to barely shoe horn a D3004 body tweeter in. Watch the overall width of your adapter to make sure it will still fit. I don't believe the Burmester AMT was that wide. 

I'm currently using D2004/60020 without any problem now. That is until I get the Focal's installed. The Focal will just fit given the space provided in my Macan.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> 911 tweeter adapters. Holes were far off, and the tweeters sit too low and the terminals hit the hvac vent, never mind with the large spade connectors they included.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk


I'm not sure if the design changed over time, original ones I open sourced did fit although it required you to fold the terminals over so the lay flat.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*PROTOTYPING PT2*
Compared to the 911 the Cayman is unique in the tweeter area. I needed to double check what my safe areas are instead of relying solely on other's models.

To do this I used 5mm grid paper to create a template. 5mm is perfect for making quick adjustments and eyeballing how much needs to be trimmed. After 6 iterations the template was close enough to move to sturdier cardstock for final trimming.






























After that, I cut a hole in the cardstock to check for any obstructions below the tweeter. I found a worrisome piece of plastic that may or may not hit the bottom of the tweeter. So, I will need to check clearance with the adapter printed.











I leant conservatively on the measurements, I also verified the template dimensions 3 ways: With the grid paper, with a caliper, and by scanning it and uploading it to Photoshop.

The tweeters are sold out on Madisound. I added them to my cart about a week ago, so they must have just become unavailable. Regardless, the diagrams on these Scanspeaks are good enough to prototype an adapter.




















With the 3D model from flgfish, the Scanspeak dimensions, and my safe area dimensions I went to work creating an adapter. I'm trying to it as compact as possible. This one is going to the printer Monday.


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

You're right. They Cayman tweeter mounts are considerably different than the 911, Cayenne, and Macan. Question, does that little finger in your model plug into something to hold it in place?


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Ge0 said:


> You're right. They Cayman tweeter mounts are considerably different than the 911, Cayenne, and Macan. Question, does that little finger in your model plug into something to hold it in place?


Yeah, to the left of the third mounting hole on the Burmeister tweeter is a little shelf that tab sits on.

Here are some photos from Musicar's Flickr that can explain it better.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Really nice work, steady hand with regards to planning and execution.

One thing Cayman also has is better space for a sub.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*PROTOTYPING PT3*
I pulled the factory amp and tweeters from the car this week. My wife is being very patient considering the state of our living room.






































Measuring with a caliper, I created a template out of an old shoebox and test-fit it to the cubby.











With that template, I finalized the amp rack adapter.




















Also, my Audio Development MM4s arrived. I measured the mounting hole spacing, transferred it to the template, then sent it off to the printer.




















The Rennspec adaptors, harness adaptors and MW182 woofers also arrived.


----------



## vactor (Oct 27, 2005)

feel like printing a second set of adaptors for those MM mids


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

vactor said:


> feel like printing a second set of adaptors for those MM mids


I'm using Shapeways to print, but you can have the file once it's finalized


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Looking good


----------



## bullyx2 (Jun 27, 2007)

DriverDaily said:


> I'm using Shapeways to print, but you can have the file once it's finalized


 Great work so far. I'm following closely as I'm putting together plans for my recently acquired 14 Boxster S. I've already gained some good knowledge from your build log. If you don't mind, I'd love a copy of the file as well. Thanks!


----------



## Dvon (May 30, 2021)

Loving this build! I have a 981 Boxster S I’m just starting to scope. Lots of inspiration here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*PROTOTYPING PT4*
Sadly, the Scanspeak D3004 won't fit. The adapter fits fine, but doesn't leave enough room for rear tabs of the vent cover. I hadn't been able to order the Scanspeaks because they were out of stock so it's no big loss.


























There don't seem to be any well regarded beryllium tweeters in a smaller package. To replace them I'm considering the Morel MT-450 or Rennspec's Dynaudio MD102 upgrade. I would love to go with Piccolos's but there's no chance they'll fit. The diameter of the tweeter is a limiting factor.

I'm leaning towards the Morels right now based on Geo's review, so I created some quick adapters and sent them to the printer. By raising the tweeter up I can also move it further towards the driver. This only works because of how shallow the MT-450 is.

One question I had: *The backside of the MT-450 is vented. Does this mean the front and back need to be totally isolated with a sealed baffle?










DOOR TREATMENT*
Since we had a nice long weekend I pulled the door cards out. I started by creating templates for the Dynamat. I added Resonix CCF around a few key pieces that rattled. Surprisingly, all the OEM harness clips are totally solid. The driver's side mirror switch was the only harness I felt needed some CCF.




























The door reflectors were _very_ loose, so I created a gasket out of CCF to isolate them from the door card.​









Added Tesa tape to the mounting brackets that hold the door cards.​









This bolt on the backside of the door handle was not totally snug. It caused some creaking when the door panel flexed. Easy fix.​









Measured and cut Dynamat tiles for the door skin.​
I need to find another full day to tackle the Dynamat for the vapor barrier since it involves disconnecting the battery.


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Have you considered the ScanSpeak D2004 soft dome tweeter? It will also fit. The D2004 sounds just like the D3004 above 3KHz.


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Nice job on the door cards!


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Ge0 said:


> Have you considered the ScanSpeak D2004 soft dome tweeter? It will also fit. The D2004 sounds just like the D3004 above 3KHz.


Hadn't considered anything less than 1" in diameter. My thinking is this is the only driver in the dash, so the tweeter needs to play low.


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

DriverDaily said:


> Hadn't considered anything less than 1" in diameter. My thinking is this is the only driver in the dash, so the tweeter needs to play low.


But you're considering the Morels? Not much difference.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Ge0 said:


> But you're considering the Morels? Not much difference.


I would have thought the MT-450 could be crossed an octave lower than the D2004?

The D2004 are not very expensive so maybe I should take a page from your book and try both


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

The D2004 has an Fs=600Hz. The MT450 has Fs=1000Hz. I would not cross either below 2KHz using a 24dB/octave crossover.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Ge0 said:


> The D2004 has an Fs=600Hz. The MT450 has Fs=1000Hz. I would not cross either below 2KHz using a 24dB/octave crossover.


First, I really appreciate the advice and the fact that you're the only person with ears-on experience with the MT-350 and the D2004. And, based on your reviews I'm pretty certain the Dynaudio MD102s are not for me.

That said, I'm getting conflicting info. Looking at everything else besides fs it seems like the Morels will play lower. They'll also be easier to mount, more sensitive, and handle more power.

Morel MT-450

Operating Range: 1400-25000 Hz
fs: 1000 Hz fs
Recommended Crossover: 2000 Hz, 12db slope
Power Handling: 130w RMS power handling
Sensitivity: 91db (2.83v/1m)
Size: 43mm diameter, 13mm mounting depth
Price: $529
Vented
Scanspeak D2004

Operating Range: 3000-30000 Hz
fs: 600 Hz
Recommended Crossover: 3000 Hz, 2nd order Butterworth
Power Handling: 50w RMS power handling
Sensitivity: 88.5db (2.83v/1m)
Size: 55mm diameter, 29.3mm mounting depth
Price: $236.60
Sealed
Also, I just realized the D2004 is 7.8mm deeper than the D3004. That will complicate things.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

What's wrong with the MD102?

Any tweeter isn't going to be taking 100w+ to the face, if you consider the impedance curves.

For me packaging is king, you're going to be bouncing off the windshield either way, with all the phase shifts and timbre that'll bring.


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I love the MD102 in my 981. It sounds fantastic, very detailed. And I can listen to it for hours.

I have ML280.3 in my Jeep and that is much brighter to my ears. I like them both. Probably the MD102 more, but they each have their place.


----------



## ejeffrey (Oct 8, 2015)

I'll also put in a good word for the MD102 (I had MD100s in my previous build). My current Morels are awesome as well.

However, I'll defer to Ge0 and the others who are smarter than I am for the technical reasons. And personal preference comes in to play, too.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

I'm not saying anything is wrong with the MD102. I'm saying, based on Geo's review, I think I would prefer something more detailed even if the alternative is slightly more harsh.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Yeah fair play, I'll take smoothness over the nth degree of detail


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*DOOR TREATMENT PT2*
I put the finishing touches on the doors this week. The only thing I'm still waiting on is my adapters for the MM4 midranges. Then the door panels can go back on.

Dynamat was applied to the inner door skin and the back of the vapor barrier first.





















I followed the Dynamat up with three layers of 0.5in hydrophobic melamine foam. I'm not expecting this to have a huge effect, but it weighs nothing and was on sale at Second Skin over Labor Day.



















The vapor barrier's seal to the door is really good. The only place I felt I could improve was by making a gasket to go around the mounting clips.




























finally, the mw182 woofers got mounted in the doors thanks to Rennspec. Then the final layer of Dynamat went on the front of the vapor barrier.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

very nice work, taking the time to do all the fixings etc


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*MIDRANGE DOOR ADAPTERS*
I received a bunch of adapters from the printer today. I immediately installed the midranges so I can get the door panels back on and drive my car again.

Again, I used the Resonix CCF to create a gasket between the woofer and the adapter. Then, there's a second piece of CCF between the adapter and the door.

I decided on a forked mounting ear. This lets one bolt be screwed in, then the adapter can slide in from the side. I also added labels to the adapters so anyone after me will know what they are looking at. Finally, I chamfered the edges of the adapter in CAD to match the inside diameter of the factory door enclosure. 















































The only thing I'm concerned about is the speaker wire ferrules being held by the MM4 posts. I tightened them as much as possible without tools but if they back out even a little those ferrules could slip right out.


----------



## Dvon (May 30, 2021)

Can’t get enough of this build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## santirx (Oct 7, 2020)

Your attention to detail is admirable. Great story. Thanks for sharing and keep it coming. It makes me want to go back to mine and fix a few things...


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

*HEAD UNIT*
I got that Mercedes Fakra adapter because I was hoping it would fit in my car. However, burnergt4 on Rennlist made me aware of the fact that not all Fakra adapters have the same shape. Luckily he and I stumbled across a company called Connects2 based in the UK that sells adapters and install kits for Porsches. They have the correct Fakra to USB adapter that matches to the PCM 3.1.










Another nice thing about he Connects2 was that it came with a Canbus adapter. That means I don't have to go finding and tapping accessory, illumination, or reverse to get the everything working.










While preparing the harness I decided to add a 120mm 24v Noctua Industrial fan behind the head unit to help keep it cool. I tested the fan on a bench with a Noctua low-noise-adapter to make sure it would still spin at 11v and wouldn't be too loud at 15v. I'm too lazy to pint and fabricate a bracket so this just gets secured with zip-ties.



















Tested the head unit to make sure everything was working.










Kind of a rat's nest with all the connections and antennas for the head unit.










While testing the head unit I realized the Teyes head unit is just a little bit larger than a double din. It won't fit in the Metra kit. That's OK, because I didn't like how low the screen sat in the Metra kit. Also, I wasn't looking forward to cutting up the Metra kit to install a volume knob anyways.

Instead of using the Metra kit, I designed a head unit kit in CAD specifically for the Teyes. and then included space for volume, bass boost, and a switch to change between single seat and 2-seat tunes. Also, unlike the Metra, the screen sits perfectly flush.




















Of course, it was a bit too much to ask for a perfect fit on the first try.










The radio enclosure has a perfect cutout for the potentiometers and switches that will control the Helix.


----------



## vactor (Oct 27, 2005)

wow!!


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

That head unit adapter looks really really nice. The recessed kit version is little meh isn't it


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Muu said:


> That head unit adapter looks really really nice. The recessed kit version is little meh isn't it


Thanks, and yeah, that Metra kit is pretty low effort. Can't believe it’s factory equipment in Japan. No wonder nobody buys them over there.


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Your homemade HU dash kit is awesome, man! I'd love to swap out my OEM POS (piece of sht) HU after the track season in my 981. Think I could hit you up?


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Anu2g said:


> Your homemade HU dash kit is awesome, man! I'd love to swap out my OEM POS (piece of sht) HU after the track season in my 981. Think I could hit you up?


Once I'm happy with the adapters I'm going to make them all available to print somehow. However, I'm not sure how printable that head unit kit will be using an FDM printer.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

I took a week of vacation to get this install completed. Here is the tweeters installed. I'm using XT-30 connecters to make life easier.


































Next I installed the head unit. This install kit was printed at a different orientation than the original. As a result, the result is that the face of this one is much nicer. I still need to sand and paint the head unit kit, and wire the potentiometers up. For the head unit, I was able to unpack the firmware and replace the boot image with a custom one that matches the factory head unit.



















Finally, I installed the amplifier. The bracket is so long that it is not printing flat. I think this is why I was having issues getting the holes of the bracket to match the holes on the amplifier. The solution was to split the bracket into two pieces.


















For the power and ground, I am really glad I used 6awg instead of 4awg. Because the wall is so close to the amp connections I really needed the smaller bend radius of smaller wire. Alternatively, some 90 degree adapters would have made that alot simpler.


















It's getting very crowded in there. I still need to go back and hook up the other side of the power and ground tomorrow. I am also waiting on a 90 degree USB cable. I'm looking to firing it up for the first time this week.


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

looks good, is it anchored on both sides or just the bottom (as seen in that photo) edge?


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Muu said:


> looks good, is it anchored on both sides or just the bottom (as seen in that photo) edge?


It's only anchored by the two bolts on the bottom edge.There are also strips of closed cell foam under the feet.

This last revision I had to add reinforcement between the amp and the two mounting points to prevent the bracket from flexing.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

So I finished the amp install and all the wiring. I took power directly from the junction box. It's fused, works beautifully and hardly looks aftermarket.










*The Head Unit Remote Signal*
This powers up before the optical port does. This causes amplifier turn-on pop and scares the crap out of you and your passenger. I fixed this by telling the Helix amplifier to use digital input sensing instead of routing the digital input through the main input. The pop tells the amp to switch over to the digital input, which doesn't happen until after the pop is over.

*The Bass Knob and Profile Switch*
I can't figure out how to get the profile switch working. One profile works, the other causes a red light on the amp and no sound. I may have wired it wrong so I need to look at this again. The bass knob only raises and lowers all frequencies that the midbass plays. Since the midbass are crossed at 350hz vocals just sounds terrible at any level besides reference. I was hoping I could add bass boost centered on a certain frequency but it doesn't look possible in the Helix UI.




















*The Head Unit Bracket*
This just didn't turn out as well as I would like with my rattle-can SEM paintjob. I should have started with a lower grit or used a primer because it looks very pitted. I don't have time to dedicate to painting it again. Even if I did I wouldn't want to spend it that way. I am going to print a second head unit bracket, remove the bass knob and eq profile switch, and hand it over to a body shop.












*EQ*
Here's the response right out of the amp. I only applied crossovers adjusted the levels of the drivers to better fit the reference curve. That reminds me, I just gabbed the audiofrog reference curve here.










Individual drivers with no EQ, just crossovers:

*Dynaudio MW182* 30 Hz (BU7) - 350 Hz (LR4)
*Audio Development MM4* 350 Hz (LR4) - 2400 Hz (LR4)
*Morel MT-450* 2400 Hz (LR4)










Here is the "after" of a two-seat EQ. You can see there is a null at 33hz and a peak at 300hz that just would not go away.










with 1/48 smoothing


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Very nice work. Overall does your EQ reduce the level by 10db or are the two curves captured at different levels?

Fuse box is so much easier in LHD, in the RHD cars it's essentially mounted backwards so the posts face the chassis, so needs to be pulled off and inverted for access, even then it's on the wrong side of the car.


----------



## SNCTMPL (Nov 23, 2014)

How are you liking the MT-450’s? 
I just ordered a pair from Morel.


----------



## SiW80 (Mar 13, 2019)

DriverDaily said:


> *The Bass Knob and Profile Switch*
> I can't figure out how to get the profile switch working. One profile works, the other causes a red light on the amp and no sound. I may have wired it wrong so I need to look at this again. The bass knob only raises and lowers all frequencies that the midbass plays. Since the midbass are crossed at 350hz vocals just sounds terrible at any level besides reference. I was hoping I could add bass boost centered on a certain frequency but it doesn't look possible in the Helix UI.
> 
> View attachment 306922
> ...


What size and spec pots are you using the for the bass knob and volume?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Muu said:


> Very nice work. Overall does your EQ reduce the level by 10db or are the two curves captured at different levels?


Yep the measurements are accurate relative to each other, the EQ target was set to 65db in REW and my initial measurements were taken at 75db. After the final measurements I had enough headroom to add about 4db back in before clipping. That's not reflected here. 



SNCTMPL said:


> How are you liking the MT-450’s?
> I just ordered a pair from Morel.


They are really sweet and detailed, and the small size is great. They also are extremely sensitive. These had the most cut during EQ.

The only downside is the fact that the MT-300 exists for less. But, I haven't heard both so I can't comment on if the extra money was worth it.



SiW80 said:


> What size and spec pots are you using the for the bass knob and volume?


I'm using Bourns, 10K ohm, linear.
Part # PDB241-E420K-103B0

Took me a while to figure out where the signal wire went. For some reason I had signal on pin 3 and power on pin 2 and all of the volume control was in the first 10 degrees of rotation. Signal in the middle and it works perfect now.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Hello everyone,

I wanted to update the thread to make my 3D STL files available.
Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

As far as progress goes, I took a new job in August that leaves me very little time for this hobby.

There is a short with the passenger occupancy sensor / seat control module / airbag control module that is triggering an airbag light. I haven't been able to track it down beyond that and the dealer has no service appointments for the next 3 months.
The microphone needs to be wired and hooked up.
The Canbus adapter doesn't fully understand the Cayman's canbus protocols.
It fails to trigger the reverse. I can tap the reverse lights instead when I install the reverse camera.
It triggers the illumination signal when turning on the foglights instead of headlights. I'm looking for an alternative place to tap illumination, possibly the Sport Chrono clock.

I switched to an iPhone and discovered that CarPlay doesn't work with the CC2 Plus right now. Not a big deal since apps run natively on the head unit's Android OS.

I would be tempted to dump this on a shop at this point, but there are no good ones near me.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

This thread is amazing- trying to see if I'll be able to buy a 981 later this year. By any chance do you have any info on SWC and aftermarket headunits(I see you don't have SWC, but maybe you've seen info on it from the JDM units?).


----------



## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Such amazing work!!!!


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Turb0Yoda said:


> This thread is amazing- trying to see if I'll be able to buy a 981 later this year. By any chance do you have any info on SWC and aftermarket headunits(I see you don't have SWC, but maybe you've seen info on it from the JDM units?).


JPN cars came with a canbus adapter (part# 7PP 971 324 B). This handled things like Steering Wheel Controls, power, accessory, reverse, etc. But, I couldn't find a wiring diagram so I wouldn't have been able to hook it up.

I ended up with a canbus adapter from Connects 2 made for a 911. It's supposed to be able to translate Porsche Steering Wheel Control inputs to an aftermarket head unit. They make several adapters based on the options your car has and what you want to retain. I haven't tested the SWC signals so I can't guarantee that will work.

Also, you can buy a 981 _without_ the multifunction steering wheel and retrofit the newer 718 wheel. This is the company that makes the harness for retrofitting a steering wheel. They have a guide on how to activate multifunction steering wheel controls if your car didn;t come with it.

Here's my retrofitted steering wheel from a 2017+ 718 Cayman in my 2016 Cayman. I have taken this to the dealer and no one even noticed it had the wrong wheel.


----------



## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

haha so they let you retrofit a heated swc steering wheel if you didn't have either on the 981? That is sick as hell, Thanks for the info. Fingers crossed I can grab one of these lol.


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DriverDaily said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I wanted to update the thread to make my 3D STL files available.
> Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects
> ...


I know this is an older thread, but I was reading through as I contemplate my next project, and I can tell you the PODS issue (passenger occupancy detection sensor) is because you must have had ACC on when the passenger seat was out of the vehicle. If you did, that will trigger the CEL, and it won't turn off until you have a dealer re-key that for you. You can't simply reset that from the aftermarket tools available, unfortunately; it has to be a PIWIS. Ask me how I know 

I went from 18-way seats to the carbon fiber lightweight buckets in my 981 GT4, and in preparing for / doing that swap, I learned more than I care to know about Porsche seat inner-workings.

Sidenote: I am contemplating my head unit options for the 981 now. I, like you, had a CDR31 w/ SPP. I _might _just do the Joyeauto upgrade that adds Android Auto to the factory screen. I already have the OEM HU wired up to the Musicar setup, so I don't care _that _much about getting a cleaner signal at this point. Thinking about doing this kit, with the OEM mics to 3.5mm that you mentioned earlier in this thread.

Thanks for your helpful and detailed thread!


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Joyauto kit is meant to sound crap, friend installed one in a 991 turbo and pulled it right out.


----------



## santirx (Oct 7, 2020)

Check mr12volt. It has a module MOST25 capable (the only in the market). I replaced my Joye with Isudar, and my Isudar with mr12volt. Audio now is audiophile quality. Not sure if it will work with CDR31 though. It is marketed to work on PCM3.0 and PCM3.1.









Mr12Volt Car Interface


Mr12Volt Car Interface, MOST Bluetooth Handsfree Adapters, MOST DAB / DAB+, MOST CarPlay & Android Auto Interfaces



www.mr12volt.com


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Thanks. It looks like that one only works with PCM, not CDR. Now that I know the Joyeauto doesn't sound good, I am contemplating buying Suncoast dash kit and putting an aftermarket HU in. The Alpine double din models appear to match decently. My OEM doesn't do anything fancy, I.e. it's literally only used for audio, so I don't lose any functionality going with an aftermarket deck. My only question is...with the Joye and Isudar units, was the quality _worse _than OEM? Or just _as bad _as OEM.


----------



## santirx (Oct 7, 2020)

Anu2g said:


> Thanks. It looks like that one only works with PCM, not CDR. Now that I know the Joyeauto doesn't sound good, I am contemplating buying Suncoast dash kit and putting an aftermarket HU in. The Alpine double din models appear to match decently. My OEM doesn't do anything fancy, I.e. it's literally only used for audio, so I don't lose any functionality going with an aftermarket deck. My only question is...with the Joye and Isudar units, was the quality _worse _than OEM? Or just _as bad _as OEM.


I don’t think Isudar or Joye will work with CDR31 either, I may be wrong. But if they work, they’ll probably sound just as good or bad (depending on your perspective…😊)


----------



## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

Worse. My friend isn't into audio and said it made his phone sound like those old FM transmitter solutions.


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Muu said:


> Worse. My friend isn't into audio and said it made his phone sound like those old FM transmitter solutions.


I ended up getting the Suncoast kit (arriving Thursday), which includes a wire harness for the base audio (sound package plus). Going with a Kenwood DMX957XR. 

@DriverDaily how long was your optical cable from your HU to the Helix? I'll need to get a 2ch RCA of the same length to go from the HU to the Musicar amp (Mosconi Gladen One 60.8 DSP)


----------



## bmmer701 (Jun 16, 2010)

musircar amp or helix psix to use on this setup? Which is better? I have a set of utopia m’s that i want to use for my 981 gts also. Just dont know what setup to use.


----------



## DriverDaily (May 1, 2021)

Anu2g said:


> @DriverDaily how long was your optical cable from your HU to the Helix? I'll need to get a 2ch RCA of the same length to go from the HU to the Musicar amp (Mosconi Gladen One 60.8 DSP)


Hey, I think I used a 3 meter cable


----------



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Anu2g said:


> I ended up getting the Suncoast kit (arriving Thursday), which includes a wire harness for the base audio (sound package plus). Going with a Kenwood DMX957XR.
> 
> @DriverDaily how long was your optical cable from your HU to the Helix? I'll need to get a 2ch RCA of the same length to go from the HU to the Musicar amp (Mosconi Gladen One 60.8 DSP)


The Suncoast/Porsche OEM dash kit (complete with Porsche part number and made in Germany tag) came with a crooked PORSCHE logo. For anyone buying in the future, I'd just get the Metra kit









Note: the Suncoast kit does come with a wiring harness, though.


----------



## santirx (Oct 7, 2020)

DELETE


----------

