# Pair 15s IB baffle into seat, yes the PLWB155 Pyles



## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Just a simple baffle into the seat, though I had to cut it in half to get it past the shock towers...but it all worked out because I just doubled up the center section for more strength.

These are the Pyle PLWB155 in the review section and in the thread in the OT section.

This is the patterns I made to fit and the oven shelf I cut in half for grilles, just in case I stuff a box or big person/etc into the back seat. The sub circle came with the subs.









Baffle made and spray canned the trunk side, routered the openings. Had to fit them in the car, had to sand the edges a couple times to get them to fit. Cut the sides on angles to fit, etc. This must have been ply on sale the surface was course, had to sand it with the DA for a little bit just to smooth it off.









They are massive 15s! 
I foamed the sub rings to seal. Also foamed the lip in the car all the way around to seal the baffle. Used a roll of truck topper closed cell foam, some I slit for more narrow pieces I think it is 1 1/8 x 1/4 iirc and $5.77 or so for 30' I have plenty leftover. Mounted them with the larger course drywall screws must be 1" or so, I drilled the holes so they held better.









All done from the trunk side. The top section there is part of my old quad 12s baffle, I put it back in to seal off the large holes in the rear deck and make it stronger. Have to fit an amp rack up there someplace, and glue the carpet back down....figure out a panel to cover the subs too, off the amp rack.









Done from behind the seat. Drilled holes in the car and screwed it from the cabin side. Foamed all around and across the bottom there. Is also foamed to the floor on the trunk side. Yeah I hack mounted the grilles but who cares nobody but you will complain about the looks lol, because nobody else can see through the seat. Only problem I have is the deck cover is rattling, not sure why it didn't with the 12s. I put more deadening stuff in there maybe that changed something. Anyway I have to take it out and foam it or something it is only at the glass it is doing it.









These were the quad 12s I had in there before









When it was done I had the subs wired like this, can't really see it unless you get down in the trunk. The previous photo is from the trim low near the bumper.









I have a roll of carpet to put on whatever I decide to leave in the car, lol.

Review: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...4184-pyle-plwb155-svc-15-pair-mounted-ib.html
OT thread some info on the sub: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/off-topic/80476-budget-pyle-15-sub-1-000w-power.html


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Figured out the amp rack and cut all the pieces for it today, put the hinges on it but have to cut holes for the fans and screw/glue it together then carpet....and make sure I have some fans around lol. I have a little relay to run them. Think I have the cover for the subs figured out it might be a bare carpet curtain, that way I can shove stuff into it should I need all the trunk room for a trip. All I am really interested in is that if I open the trunk someplace you can't see any equipment in there. Yeah I hate to cover up that magnificent blinding Pyle chrome instead of wrapping them with LED lights...but you have to do the dirty things that stealth requires. 

Still not sure what to put in my doors, but the amp rack is 36" long by 13" wide so I should be able to fit three maybe four amps if I really try and use the right ones....but hope I don't need that many. Should be swapping to the smaller sub amp of 350rms when I get the rack done I think it will be enough as this 500rms can make them get pretty high xmax, and I would not have to worry about abusing them in case I did. Bought screws for a 4x100 I have to try on highs should put that in there.

Next time I work on it should have some photos, not fancy but it will work. I'm too time limited to make it pretty, but maybe someone will pick up something for their basic install. Using ply in an effort to keep it lighter.

Only issue I'm not sure about is how to latch it up, that would be nicer than screws.


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)

You got the flamez under grillz? Get some doggz!!!










"Who said anything about oil? *****, you cookin'?"



Glad to see some progress with those bastards. Didn't know you had a build log going.


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## ttocs388 (Jun 25, 2010)

Knobby Digital said:


> You got the flamez under grillz? Get some doggz!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hard to believe that the flames help to make sence of the oven stand grill huh!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I do have flames under the grille....lucky me there are no oil slicks up here to catch on fire....well not yet anyway. Though the news says they are now keeping people (reporters) away from it by force, so it must be more of that top secret kind of transparency. Well it was 95F here now its 80 but raining not sure I'll be able to work on it tonight.

Also wanted to try a port in the baffle to see if I could boost 20Hz more, not sure it would be worth the pita to experiment with it or not. Would have to chop a big hole and build a boxed port I could tune. It seems to refuse to make 20 forced on a tone, it just might not work in this car because its a car or it creates a null or something. I can't really complain about the 25Hz it will get to.

I also want to put a DMM on one and play tones, see where it looks like they xmax so I can dial in on exactly what power I need to run them. That should give me a good idea no? I figure like most subs when I stop getting more xmax that is it. I had it playing music kind of loud one day and the amp was showing highest readings of 10A draw, that is not much, though I am sure it ramps up from there. I cranked it up on a bass CD and didn't look at the amp, but it had no problem moving the seat in/out 1" or something, way too loud for any kind of actual music listening just screwing off.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Worked on the amp rack its nearly done, got 2 fan holes in it, brace, rear panel, and test fit it. Have to trim ends down the car curves there then it should be good to go minus the carpet/fans/foam/etc. Have to prop it up in there and mark the rear panel to cut to size. Then I'll get some pics, its a real ugly thing too.:blush: I did admit I love drywall screws and my cordless drill right....but I did use glue too.

Will have to inspect viability of a port in daylight wish I would have remembered that when I did the baffle. Well I did, but was pressed for time had to get it in there. I should be able to cut it in the car but will have to build the port. Not sure how large I can get it either as the amp rack needs to swing down.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I must have lied, just now getting the rack done still no carpet on it. Got a relay setup for the fans and remotes. Had to cut the contour on the top of it and cutouts to fit the subs so it tilts down far enough to swap amps easily. Got some buckles to hold it shut hope they work. This thing is so ugly, does anyone make stuff as ugly as I do lol! Tried to get something to line the inside but no luck, that will have to wait until later. Really don't want carpet inside it rather have material or something. Painted it some and its still ugly...not that I care so much about the inside anyway. It does fit pretty nice, and I can move it up/down for different size amps just screw it on the height I want. If I keep slim amps in there I'll chop the top of it down too.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Well, finally got the thing in there tonight. Still have to put something on the bottom of the carpet at floor, but I want it loose so I can move it and stuff the trunk full if I need to. The only purpose is to cover the subs when I get in the trunk in a parking lot/etc. I was wondering about a rubber strip that could bend, a friend of mine says use a board and after a while the carpet will stay bent in the right spot. The carpet is maybe 1-2" from the sub motors.

Also didn't have wire, have to get some and tidy up the mess in there. Check out the expert fan wiring. Have to come up with some wire management here, need it so I can swap amps easily as well. Need another ground and the hot is not long enough to run two from the distro. There is a tiny 10A relay with a 5A fuse there someplace running the fans and amp remotes. Everything is running off the sub amp terminals right now.
















I don't like those little buckles either will have to find better. They show too, though really the photo is from low and with flash, its a cave in there and standing you don't notice much. I angled the rear part there hoping it would not show. The carpet is not same color its close as I could find back when I bought it, they had no black:blush: but the car is charcoal or something.

Could not figure out what to do with the inside I didn't want to carpet it. Paint still look horrid, finally said screw that UGLY thing and slapped extra carpet in there. It also covers the hinges so the amps cant touch them.
































LOL, what a goofy looking thing but it seems to work and way better looking with carpet. This carpet has no backing, not really sure what it is, but that is good for in front of the subs.

Those are spring hinges they help a little so its not as heavy. It sits right on the sub baskets in those cutouts when down, but really is not that heavy only the rear piece and brace is 3/4 rest is half.

Took a quick listen and the skeeters chased me into the house. Seems to sound the same, can hear the fans running with everything off, cheap fans, should get better ones when I order some PC stuff. They buzz its not air flow noise....but can't hear it with car running. Fans seem to flow air ok, I get some air out each end of the rack (or is it just an amp shelf?). When it gets hot and sunny I will check the amp temp readout.

Yeah the bad boys are still hiding in there:








Such a shame to cover them up.....


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Nooo, you can't cover the Blue Waves :laugh:

Get some matching carpet from PE, and it'll look very stealth. After that, maybe paint the buckles flat black? They would blend in better, though I think they function just fine and I don't know if you could do any better (especially since they're like $2/ea)...


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I might have to get the next size larger, they are kind of cheezy, yeah I think <$4 for the pair. They don't work that easily, for me its ok but not liking them. No doubt on the black and I have some bumper paint right here. Yeah think I will get black and recarpet the outside it would look much sleeker. Played it for a little while today amps were cooler than they were in bottom of trunk, but not for that long <30min. The fans sound like a really tiny quiet supercharger in my rear deck lol. Had that before will change them out later too. Have to put screws in the 4x100 sherwood and see how that does in there.


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## onebadmonte (Sep 4, 2008)

Great build. The cooking grills and flame baskets are just classic. LOL!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Trying to drop a 16hp into a golfcart and plumbing is a mess, trying to get back to this soon. It is working fine put some miles on the car and no problems at all, it even works with a trunk full of stuff though it does tone them down a little. Got some blocks from Ryan to fix up the wiring, also looking for some wire tracks or something to sort of hold them away from the amps.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

Dude, using the grills is a sweet idea! hehe, never thought of that. How much do those Pyles run each? Might do that instead of the X's...


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I must have missed this post, the subs are $46 each on amazon. I think they went down a dollar. They are still kicking out 30Hz nicely. Doing some work in my garage and once I get the heat going again I might be able to work on it some this winter. Have to put blocks in the rack and finish up the ugly wiring in there, then figure out what to put in the front doors. Would like to try porting the subs but have to get some midbass in the car first its too weak. That reminds me I need to pickup some 8ga or something for the blocks.


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

wow that's some serious real estate on the cones there!

One thing you might try:









In an IB install, even small leaks will reduce your efficiency at low frequencies. You might consider looking for gaps between the trunk and the baffle. Then seal them up.

If you have rear speakers in the deck, and you're not using them, take them out. They'll act like a passive radiator, and interfere with the response of your subs.

If you take them out, seal the hole. Same reason as above - any leaks between the front of the woofer and the back of the woofer will hurt your efficiency at low frequencies.

All of this is "icing on the cake" of course - little tweaks to squeeze the last bit of performance out of the project.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

Really nice work, they looks sick. 

Actually just am getting into the IB install now. I sold the Type X's and got two FI IB18's. The install is still to come, but it's going to be nice... heck, I might even use bbq racks!!! LOL:laugh:


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Lol, some family had an oven that would not shut off. I stole the racks out before it went to the scrap yard. The seatback is flexible so they are good insurance.

The baffle is sealed with foam everywhere it touches the car. Later I put the amp rack in (if you scroll down) and sealed the deck off with 3/4 ply from the old baffle also sealed/rattle free with foam and plenty of screws. Then went around the baffle with peel and stick, you can see some but I put more on it and did the wheel wells. There is only one hole I left at the rear of the window for air venting. It goes into a tube then out the other side so its not direct. I don't have a problem with output for sure, would be nice to get more under 25Hz is all and I don't know if that is roll off or why it goes away there.

Pair of Fi IB 18s will be brutal. These pyles can make my ears feel funny if I really light them up. Note that peak response is pretty flat, but likely peaks at 30-35Hz best I can estimate. Those Fi 18s are going to find every rattle in your car lol! These will make the entire rear glass shake, not really much I can do about it.

--the foam is truck topper foam as seen under the ends of the grilles. It seals nicely once you screw it down. When I took the other baffle out some of it was stuck on.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

Well the whole project for you came out pretty sick. You've probably posted it, but what did these go into? 
Something I'm wondering about it my back seat, I think it might have a metal plate/frame just under the carpet... wondering how this will affect the sound, have any idea? Also, how does your output from the Pyles seem compared with some other boxed sub versions (sealed, ported, etc), and how's the output compared? Still skeptical because I haven't done it yet, but still really excited! (these woofers are stupid big!)


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## SHOToonz (Sep 18, 2007)

dude...where do you live? i wanna hear this!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

bawward said:


> Well the whole project for you came out pretty sick. You've probably posted it, but what did these go into?
> Something I'm wondering about it my back seat, I think it might have a metal plate/frame just under the carpet... wondering how this will affect the sound, have any idea? Also, how does your output from the Pyles seem compared with some other boxed sub versions (sealed, ported, etc), and how's the output compared? Still skeptical because I haven't done it yet, but still really excited! (these woofers are stupid big!)


15s were the largest, and lowest Fs I could fit. Its a contour. Far as loud it really depends on what you mean by loud. Someone with a typical small box sub that plays 'loud' at 50Hz is going to shake their head at this. I had some 12s I ran in there sealed and ported, none were that expensive like an Infinity, sony p5, digital designs I think a clone of an audiobahn, and a couple others. They would play loud down to about 40Hz and I could not get much lower. I had another bought dual 12 and a dual ported 10 box (the 10s were not bad). The largest single 12 I ran was a 1.25cf and it near hogged half the trunk. I had a 300rms old rubicon SS amp on that sony P5 and it was loud, louder than these 15s, but near drove me nuts it was all buzz. I like shake the car bass, I want to be 1 foot from a freight train passing me at 60mph on a wooden bridge. So its a different kind of bass from what marketing sells these days. Its because it is way easier to make 40Hz and higher and you can do it with one sub. I really like more of a HT sound with big subs that get deep.

If you want more buzz, the infinity 12s I ran quads they would really pump at 50. These 15s don't, they could be run with no EQ at all. If you model them you will see it. If you really want to tune IB in you need to get the sub that does what you want, though I can EQ the 15s the way I want.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

Well, I really appreciate that info. Still totally going to do it, but just don't really know what to expect! I Agree, the idea of a train sends shivers up and down, but something I'm wondering about is the frequency response. I know they put out at 20, but a lot of music (especially rap/hip-hop) has a lot of the 30-50 range stuff, and I still want to be able to run that without bottoming out my subs... I know they'll do it, but not like a boxed system. 
Do you not run an EQ in line for your subs, or do you use the deck?


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

My 880PRS HU has a 16 band in it, right now its flat and one notch up at 20Hz, one or two are a notch down at 5K or something. I could do more but going to tear into it soon and mess it up. Lower frequency takes more xmax. If you max the subs out you turn on the subsonic filter...the more you turn the SS HP up the more power you can lay on, but of course the more bottom you lose. If you get a sub with a little lower qts (~.5) odds are it will roll off on the bottom to start with if you would rather have that. The AE are tuned more for SQ and should play pretty flat like these pyles do from 25-30Hz on up with not much of a peak anywhere. Mine are very sightly stronger at 30-35Hz but not much at all can only tell on tones.

Not all music has much under 35Hz, but some does. I kind of like a solid 30-35Hz that is my sweet spot anyway. If I can get 20 that is great and I'm pretty close right now. Really a solid 30, not barely I mean power at 30, is a pretty good sub setup IMHO. To get that you need something that plays 25 at least half azzed if you see what I mean. All I'm saying is build subs that play the way you want them to, or spend a lot for monster subs that you can EQ the way you want. You can use JBL GTi IB and force them to play your game if you want to, but they are not cheap or light. I also wanted a lighter sub so the rear of my car stayed up. Model the AE and model the sub you have now, it will show you a lot.

When I had the quad 12s in there I had 20Hz boosted like 3dB and 50 cut 3dB plus I had the HU and amp xover both at 50Hz. It gave me roughly the same response I have now with the 15s....that shows you how different subs play different IB in the same car.


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## stills (Apr 13, 2008)

sorry if i overlooked it, but do you know the xmax on the pyles?


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

stills said:


> sorry if i overlooked it, but do you know the xmax on the pyles?


Have no idea and they don't list it, only minimal specs so you can model it. I put one bare (not mounted) on a 2x60 amp bridged at 170rms, a little Dual amp, but it seems to work pretty well. I played 30Hz sines, got it cranked way up and was getting 1.125" of cone movement for sure. It didn't seem to want to do more but then the amp thermalled lol, oops. When I play it kind of loud with plenty of bass they move around 1/4 inch at most, that is about as loud as I would play it for a longer time say a longer drive. Anything much more and they start to drown the highs right out and that was when I had an alpine F345 that is 75rmsx4. But hey, they are pyles I am happy they perform like they do. I would not expect a lot out of them far as big xmax, hell they were on sale for $40 each with free shipping last time I looked. But for me a pair of 15 is kind of overkill, and with cheap subs they often have low distortion at low xmax. All the expensive subs spend their money on making the big xmax without distortion, that is the hard part. With this pair of 15 I don't care about distortion if I wang on it, long as it plays nice when I listen seriously lol.

That was another thing they say 1,000watts! Well if that is peak then 500rms, and with IB you halve it so 250rms IB. I have the 500rms alpine on them and I am going to guess its about all they can handle. They have never cracked or bottomed, but I don't really want to break them for the fun of it. The back seat is moving pretty good then, at least considering a 1" xmax they are moving. I'm sure an AE or Fi is better, I just don't need it.


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## stills (Apr 13, 2008)

most econo subs i've noticed don't offer close to that much travel.

i've been eyeballing dayton classic 18's for a while.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Thing is was it xmax, or xmech...? All I can say is it does over 1" total travel no problem. It was not broken in either that was first time I ran it, then when I installed them they were not moving in synch lol one had more xmax. After a while they evened back out as I suspected. They look a lot like an old school IB sub, heavy paper cone, not a huge magnet but not tiny, & so on. I pulled that motor cover off the magnet, then put it on so the writing was right side up. I mounted them that way to get the terminals at the top.

How did I measure? I stood back and put my fingers close to the cone and checked the shadow of the cone. Then measured my finger to thumb. I did it like 8 times, it was certainly 1 1/8" at least. I have not looked at them in the car full tilt, or not so I can see the cone that well my amp rack covers them and the seat is in. I don't think they get as much xmax as easily when mounted.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

SHOToonz said:


> dude...where do you live? i wanna hear this!


Me, too


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

Sounds silly, but the Fi 18's are rated at 600 watts RMS at 20 hrz (more for higher, frequencies, but that doesn't matter due to Xmax). 

Putting the full 600 watts to them RMS should be fine, right? I don't want to overpower the subs, or over drive an amp.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

BEAVER said:


> Me, too


I don't have a lot to compare it too except past systems. Since I like low bass I'd rate this quite high. Its not going to blow windows out of houses, but sure sounds sweet and more than enough output for music for me. I really need to bump up my midbass its lacking.



bawward said:


> Sounds silly, but the Fi 18's are rated at 600 watts RMS at 20 hrz (more for higher, frequencies, but that doesn't matter due to Xmax).
> 
> Putting the full 600 watts to them RMS should be fine, right? I don't want to overpower the subs, or over drive an amp.


If they are IB subs and sold as such, that should be a real rating. IB subs can wear out faster if you hammer them a lot because they get a lot of xmax....all depends on your use. For box subs figure half the box rating. If you are not looking for super loud odds are you don't even need the max power on IB subs they usually put out nicely with partial power. When I had quad 12s I only ran 400rms that is 100 each, but more cone area gives more output.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

I'm thinking I might run 500 rms per to them then, I think that'll be fine, and not enough to overpower the subs. 

Yup, that's the next project, the mid bass. With my boxed Type X's, I could run them up to/around 100 hrz and it helped a bit because mid bass in my car is lacking anyway. With the IB setup, it will be even more apparent... hmmmm


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

The midbass thing can surprise you, even me. I had 12s in there and they hammered at 50Hz and more so I put the HU and amp xover at 50 LP; low as they would go. Then I cut the EQ at 50 too. It was pretty flat that way they still played to 60-70 range. Midbass was not good, it was weak. So then I put the 15s in there now and they have a way flatter response. I'll guess they have some inductance too who knows, but I can let them play up to 200Hz max of the sub amp and the response is pretty smooth. Point being these will blend in and now the midbass is better because of it, though IMO still not right there needs to be more in front because MB goes higher than subs should play even if the subs can do a good job of it. Some will say well, why can't you EQ those 12s to sound the same....I could not with the 16band in the HU, and once you get to the 80hz it starts EQ'ing the mids. Strong sub at 80 and weak mid at 80, its a terrible combo. Now I have a medium sub and weak mid lol. Hope I can get on that soon. I really would have been better off with a PEQ or something on just the 12s before, and don't need it now. Those infinity 12s at vas were SPL, but with all that cone area they could get low.


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## bawward (Jan 30, 2010)

I know what you mean. The sealed box I built (fiberglass/mdf) offered pretty flat response, but it did definitely have a resonant frequency and peak, somewhere in the 40's I think. I had them crossed at 120 and it totally helped with the mid bass, but it is still (especially now) lacking up front. Need to go back in and seal up my doors better, then we'll go from there. 
You run those 15's up to around 200? That doesn't surprise me, but I'd almost be afraid of over working them, you think?
Still waiting for a good deal on an amp to run the Fi's.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I had them at 200 just for fun, after a while I turned them down I forget to 80 I think. I never run subs over 80 but I can with these they have no peak at ~50/etc. However, once in a while I like to dial them up and then it sounds nasty if over 80 the midbass gets loud and they get very localized...I just want the thunder to get loud say under 40. All I have is the level on the HU don't want to mess with EQ. I only do that with certain music, otherwise rather have them blend properly. I think an amp with a remote would be nice or a processor....something.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Now I finally put some blocks and the Alpine 350rms sub amp in there. It was making strange rumbling noises until I turned all the junk off on it. It has some compression thing and SS filter on it I will have to play with later. It seemed to play deeper initially, but I had the trunk open and in the garage. I will play with it this weekend and see. Only 12ga wire the last foot to the sub amp still have to find some wire.

Also have the Infinity kappa 4ch in there, funny that has 2x40A fuses and the Alpine has 2x20A lol. I'd guess at 2 ohms the 4ch is going to put out more still its 4x125=500 and the sub now 350. I turned the infinity down a little it was breaking up well before the HU got near the top, pretty loud though I like the power. We will see if the subs keep up with the highs now, since it was so far the other way before changing both amps. I turned it up somewhat loud and saw 20A peaks on the sub amp on the clamp meter. It was not that far from where it tops out though the gains are different just guessing. I might have to try the 15Hz SS filter on this amp to save power we will see, but it is smaller I could downsize the rack with these amps.

Don't know what this bass compression does not finding much info on it, except the usual 'its awesome' marketing. Pyles are still thumping along nicely, no complaints there at all they dig deep.


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## trumpet (Nov 14, 2010)

I have a customer who brought in a pair of those subs in a giant sealed box needing an amp. They're in a Durango, and with under 500W per sub it gets painfully loud. I hate the wire terminals on those Pyles because they feel like they'll break easily, but it's a minor complaint.

Nice install.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

trumpet said:


> I have a customer who brought in a pair of those subs in a giant sealed box needing an amp. They're in a Durango, and with under 500W per sub it gets painfully loud. I hate the wire terminals on those Pyles because they feel like they'll break easily, but it's a minor complaint.
> 
> Nice install.


They would need a big box vas is 5cf, that would get you a hit around 35-40Hz I think. Push the Q up some they would be loud. They seem very similar to some old school IB subs, heavy paper cone, etc. I was surprised to see sewn tinsels in them.

I didn't get to hammer it much this weekend and the gains are not right yet, also had stuff in the trunk. Have to print the chart to program the amp this one does not have it printed on the amp like the other one. It has some strange auto gain thing not sure what that is, on the alpine.


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## stills (Apr 13, 2008)

do you know the volume of your trunk?
sorry if i axed you already.
the large inch IB thing stays in the back of my mind.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

My trunk is about 14cf, I model 15 or 16 since it is a leaky trunk not a box. Also doubt that includes the spare under the floor that is not sealed from the trunk really, just a board over it with carpet. Sometimes little things fall down into there at the rear edge of the floor. At 1.5 times Vas I lose 1dB at 20Hz in the model and nothing else changes, so I call that IB in a car. With tones they are fairly flat to around 27Hz, under 25Hz they fall off more but still make something it is hard to tell but stuff does vibrate/move. Unmounted they showed about 1 1/8" of xmax, I don't know if they get that mounted but if they get close to 1" hard to complain for $40. I figure (guess) half that is good SQ they will change tone a little if I really lean on them with a 500rms amp, but its way louder than I would ever listen to music....is why I just swapped to a 350rms that I figure will do what I need. At a volume I would use in traffic so I could hear a siren or something loud, they don't move much at all.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

It's time I herd this set-up... I've got sound, let's meet up sometime...


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