# I may have just burnt out my vehicle's audio system, but where?



## intheocean (Jan 22, 2010)

Basically, I installed an aftermarket stereo, using a Scosche Amplifier Adapter (vehicle has factory Bose speakers + amplifier). Install worked out perfectly, everything worked to a charm except for the stereo's iPod connectivity. After I found out that the car stereo was faulty (purchased it used at Amazon, hmm), I took it out to be replaced with another aftermarket stereo I had lying around the house.

This time around during my installation, in a rush, I didn't remove the negative battery terminal, thinking that short-circuiting was a myth. (Or maybe I was just being lazy)

*The stereo does not turn on.*

After an hour or so of trying to fix this issue, I ended up just plugging in the factory stereo with all its original connections. Low and behold, *it doesn't turn on either.*

I'm thinking that maybe I had accidentally shorted the system (I recall touching the yellow battery, red turn-on, and/or black ground wires coming from the vehicle's wiring. The vehicle's interior lights kind of flickered when I did this. )

I checked the vehicle's AUDIO fuse, replaced it, and nothing seems to fix the issue.

*What did I do and what should my next steps be???*

---

Btw, I am driving a *now silent* 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE.


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Get a DMM (digital multi-meter) asap. Check for voltage. Check fuses. Then report back.


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## intheocean (Jan 22, 2010)

schmiddr2 said:


> Get a DMM (digital multi-meter) asap. Check for voltage. Check fuses. Then report back.


Having posted in the DQ forum, I might as well keep up the dumb questions.

What _exactly_ should I check?
Should I stick the prongs inside the fuse's sockets?
Should I check the red/yellow wires?

I know I have a multimeter lying somewhere in the garage. I'll check once I can, (school, work, school, work this weekend unfortunately...)

Thanks for the quick reply, btw.


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## clbolt (Jan 9, 2008)

There should be 2 fuses for the head unit, and probably only one is labeled as audio. It sounds like you blew one of them, and you might have to pull some fuses to find the bad one.


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## don_chuwish (Oct 29, 2009)

That's OK, I managed to stage a successful fuse test the other day. I FORGOT that my system was hot and let the bare ends of ground and 12V leads touch. It was like the ignosecond - that moment you realize you've just closed the door and locked yourself out.
A flash of light, touch of smoke, then nothing. It was over at about the same moment I realized what was happening. The two ends had spot welded together and the 40A fuse was cooked. Now I know that my fuses work!

- D


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## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

Like cbolt mentioned, there are two fuses. There should be another "audio" fuse (12+ or battery back-up) in the fuse block located next to your battery . I had the same thing happen to me recently and the first thing I checked was the fuse in the fuse block in the cabin of the car (for acc power btw). I went crazy trying to find a problem some where in my wiring before deeming it to be an issue with my head unit. The whole time I completely forgot to check the fuse in the engine bay. Low and behold... I also have a nissan.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Do any of the other interior lights work? Especially the gauge panel lights...?


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

You should have two power wires if you hooked them up, a constant 12v and a switched with the key 12v. If either is out the HU may not work. But your amp power wire to battery if you have installed one, should not affect the HU power.

Get a cheap DMM or even just a 12v tester than lights up, the two power wires from the HU have to be hot from a ground like metal behind the dash. One key on and the other all the time. In the case they are both good, test them to the HU case that should also be ground, instead of a ground of the car...the HU ground may be bad for some reason.

In some cars the interior lights are the same circuit as the 12+ constant, is what Ryan is getting at.


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## intheocean (Jan 22, 2010)

don_chuwish said:


> It was like the ignosecond - that moment you realize you've just closed the door and locked yourself out.
> A flash of light, touch of smoke, then nothing. It was over at about the same moment I realized what was happening.
> - D


Wow, very poetic post of yours. Haha thanks for the complete visual, it was like a step-by-step of what happened to me last night.



JediMentality said:


> Like cbolt mentioned, there are two fuses. There should be another "audio" fuse (12+ or battery back-up) in the fuse block located next to your battery. Low and behold... I also have a nissan.


Incredibly useful information!



ryan s said:


> Do any of the other interior lights work? Especially the gauge panel lights...?


Basically everything in the vehicle works completely fine, from the guage lights to the tiny LED clock above the radio.



Okay so I think I may have definitely found the solution. I'll have to go through today antsy until tomorrow where I get to test out the engine bay's fuse box...


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## yoshiboy_21 (Dec 11, 2009)

I got it from this website. Nissan Pathfinder Radio Not Working

*
The first thing to do is check fuse number 4, 15 amp, in the fuse box. You probably popped the fuse when you removed or reinstalled the radio. If the fuse is good, check for power at the audio unit terminal 12, light green/red wire and terminal 2 of the audio Amp Relay.

If you have power at both places, then the radio itself is the problem. *

More than likely, you blew one or more fuses. You can easily tell if the fuse is blown because the wire in the middle of the fuse is cut. If it's not cut, then that fuse is good.


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

Agree with above, sounds like a fuse issue, at least that's the first thing to check before you assume the worst.


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## intheocean (Jan 22, 2010)

Just an update guys, everything worked out. Simple change of fuse #4 in the cabin and everything is running like a champ. Appreciate all the input everyone...


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## stockman2010 (Jan 11, 2010)

hahaha...the old burnt fuse


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## clbolt (Jan 9, 2008)

don_chuwish said:


> That's OK, I managed to stage a successful fuse test the other day. I FORGOT that my system was hot and let the bare ends of ground and 12V leads touch. It was like the ignosecond - that moment you realize you've just closed the door and locked yourself out.
> A flash of light, touch of smoke, then nothing. It was over at about the same moment I realized what was happening. The two ends had spot welded together and the 40A fuse was cooked. Now I know that my fuses work!
> 
> - D


I once traded into a 1979 Trans Am that didn't have a radio in it. One day I was laying on the driver's side floor, reaching up into the dash, with the ignition on. The power and ground wires for the radio touched each other at the exact moment they touched my arm. I still have the scar from the 1/4" diameter, 1/4" deep crater it instantly burned into my arm. Then the fuse blew.


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