# 08 silverado crew build log



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well guys, time to start keeping track of how little I know about this stuff.

This log will be starting in the not so normal place... At the end.
I was too chicken **** to post up my first build, as I was just really learning how to do this right.

Still am, so be gentle. Lol

The vehicle is my daily driver 08 Chevy silverado ltz ccsb.










Some minor exterior accessories to get the truck the way I like it. I wanted a little more aggressive stance, so she was fitted with a readylift 2.5" leveling kit, and 3" rear blocks.

Pulled the factory 18's and went with some nice American racing chrome wheels. Fitted them with some 32" Nitto trail grapplers










Few other cosmetic additions were blacked out bow ties, black chrome grill insert, etc.

And now on to some of my audio adventure...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

My goal for the truck was my first attempt at a sq setup, that would have reasonable output.

I came from the old, throw in an amp and subs, and that was a system... Very sad I know. But, now 15 years removed from that, it was time to learn the right way. 

I started researching the net, and started figuring the equipment I would want.... This is also how I found this site, that I dump hours a day into anymore. Lol

I decided on the pioneer p99 for my source. It's sleek looks, and tremendous processing ability in one unit, was exactly what I wanted.










I placed a big order with knuconcepts for all my cables, and placed a massive order with second skin. Lol there were very large and heavy boxes arriving at my house daily it seemed. 
I remembered the amps that made me drool when I was younger, and started hunting for some oldschool Orion goodness...




























But unfortunately, I experienced some 'technical difficulties' that kinda fried me on using old school stuff... But damn they were pretty. Lol would've loved to make them work.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Now when it came to picking out my front stage, I was drawn to rainbow equipment. I wanted something smooth you could listen to for hours with no fatigue.

After reading reviews, for what seemed like weeks, I placed an order with woofersetc (yeah, I know better now)

I opted for the profi line, starting with the cal 26
















For my mids, I went with the profi plug
















And for my midbass, I went with the well known profi kick.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

My initial plan was to run the kicks in the factory door location, and the plugs and cal 26's in the kick panel. After some reading, I was worried about the rainbow effect so I purchased some CDT upstage crossovers and a second set of cal 26's to place up in my sails.










Okay by now, I'm sure you've noticed that I haven't said ANYTHING about how they sounded or how I aimed them...

Like I said earlier, I was learning, and went about this totally wrong! I didn't listen to any drivers before I purchased anything, I didn't experiment with placement, I just got the stuff based off what I read on the net...
Yeah I had/ have a long way to go. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

So, like i eluded to earlier, I don't have many build pics up to this point. I just wanted it done. Lol but this will improve as I tinker, adjust, and change things out.

I pulled the interior and applied serious amounts of damplifier pro, and ccf foam. Everything was treated except the roof, but that is on my list of future projects.

The electrical system was beefed up by replacing the starting battery with an optima yellow top. 









A second yellow top was located in the vacant spot in the engine bay.










All connected with knuconcept 0awg. What was left over was allocated to the big 3 upgrade.


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

Will be watching this one for sure!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

When it came time to run some power into the cab, I had a terrible time trying to find access through the firewall.
It appeared that it's double walled, with a good amount of space between the outer and inner walls... Meaning a real PITA to fish through.

So I figured I would run it outside the cab, down the drive side frame.
























I got some of the grey conduit used for running home wiring... The factory clips on the frame fit it perfectly. Zip tied it for additional support. Worked like a charm. Lol

I then drilled up through the floor just inside the rear seat support. I used a streetwires 0awg grommet to secure the cable. It's a nice unit, I haven't had a single leak from it being there.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Man, tapatalk can be irritating!
Type up a big narrative.. go to upload pics... Force close! 

Anyway, I wanted to do a kick install, but I was pretty intimidated by fiber glassing. So I grabbed some qforms and started modifying them. Little bit of liquid nails and damp pro on the backside, mdf ring cut for the baffle, coated it with some spectrum.... Not to bad. It was very solid and heavy once complete. I'd just deal with how it imaged for the time being.

I wanted a second set of cal 26's up high for ambient needs, and decided on the sails.

















Unfortunately, how the panel angles, it has the tweet firing down towards the dash. It would have to do for now, but I address it later in the build...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

For the profi kicks, I planned on using the factory location in the front doors.








The doors were fully treated with damp pro and ccf. All open areas were sealed off with a sandwich of roofing tin and damp pro. The sandwich was then self-tapping screwed to the door, and All was covered with ccf.
The door cards were also treated with damp pro, spectrum and ccf. All empty voids were filled with expanding foam. They are very solid with very little vibration even at full volume.
However this will be tested in the near future... I have some sls 8's on the way. We'll see how well they hold up then. Lol

I've noticed several build logs with guys making fg panels to seal the door, and I think I'll be trying this as well. Putting the 8's in will give me a great opportunity to revisit the door treatments.


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## Mopar244DIY (Dec 1, 2009)

Subscribed !


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Okay, to revisit the amp situation. Beings old school was out, I set out to find something a little different...at least to me anyway. Lol
I found these beauties..















Plan was to run each bridged, one to the right side and the other to the left. Man did it sound nice too.

This monster will be running my substage, a JBL bpx2200.1..over 2k @4ohm. and yeah it's a bit over kill... But no shortage of power! Lol


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Great job so far, looks like you are having fun with it.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Coppertone said:


> Great job so far, looks like you are having fun with it.


Thanks for the interest guys! Yeah, I started the build a year ago. What I'm posting up now are the small things I did document. Lol
Yeah I'm having a blast! I find that the build and tinkering, swap this, tweak that, is the best part. I love when it all comes together, but I'm always looking to change or better some aspects of it.
Lots I'd still love to do... And will with time!
Thanks for tuning in... Lots more to come.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.


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## bigdexxx (Oct 27, 2011)

I like this build already, those Twister Series look great along with everything else. I need more pics!!!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Okay here is why 2k in power may be a little much... I planned on running 4 ID8's lol
















Not what you would consider power hungry, or spl subs. But with The JBL's gain all the way down, and using caution in setting it up, it worked quite well. In the long run, it's wasn't what I wanted as far as output though. 
The box build for the ID's and amp rack I did document pretty extensively, so lots of pics of that coming up. 

Anybody that owns, or has done a build in a nnbs Chevy/GMC, knows it's pretty limited on where you can put components. Behind the seat is out... When the seats fold up, all free space is gone. Under seat is okay for maybe a single sub and an amp or two. But when you want multiple amps and subs, you have to get creative...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Damn force closed again!

So anyone who owns, or has done a build in a nnbs Chevy/GmC, knows that space for components is limited. Nothing behind the seat, as this area is filled by the seats when they are folded up.
Under the seat is okay for a single sub and amp, but won't work when you want multiple amps and subs.

What I did was source some 3" steel C channel and had it cut into 3-4" sections. I then laid out the appropriate mounting locations and drilled them out. This allowed me to raise my rear seat by 3".. not too bad.
So I had the area I could use, and the equipment to fill it. Next step.. pen, paper, and a lot of number crunching. Lol
What I ended up with was a sealed down firing configuration. The Twisters would be mounted on top, and the JBL would be behind them in the center.
Pics to follow...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

The black you see is spectrum, I used it to deaden, seal, And as a high build primer of sorts. Worked really well. 
The subs will have aprox 1 1/2" clearance from the floor.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

This is 3-4 layers of spectrum, sanded, then painted black. It almost gives a black abs appearance, and I was pleased with how it turned out.





























This is it still drying. As you can see it was on quite thick...


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## Frank Drebin (May 30, 2011)

awesome build so far. thanks for sharing


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Here I have the box covered in matching vinyl... Not the best wrapping job, but I thought it was okay for my first try.








Starting to lay out components, distribution, and wiring..


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

And here are some shots on how it looked in the truck.























The yellow you see is the C channel used to raise the seats.









My plan was to make a trim piece to cover the yellow bracket and tie it all together... Never got that far though. I'll explain that later.

I wasn't happy how the box extended past the raised section in the floor. Pretty big eye sore for me.
There were additional brackets under the seat I didn't take into account.. this prevented the box from setting further back.

Not a big fan of the seat covers... They really hinder The flow of everything. But with a 3 year old who loves to dump his skitles, it's very necessary. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Now that everything was in, it was time to start setting it up. Ran into a minor problem during gain setting... I got a little happy setting the right side tweet, and fried the CDT crossover.
Fortunately, having 4 tweets, I didn't have to order anything to replace the tweet. So I pulled the crossovers and just had my main cal26's in the kicks.

Beings I have limited tuning skills, I opted to just use the p99's auto eq and TA. 
My first thought was WOW... I'm in at a new level here. I'd used good equipment years ago, but never put the time in on deadening, install, and thoughtful placement.
I've never been to a sq comp, never sat in or heard a sq car, so I had no idea what to expect.

I like it!

The tone, The balance, I was hearing things I'd never heard before in my music. But, I knew it was only the beginning. However, there were things I noticed after a few weeks of listening, and the holy **** wow factor wearing off.

I was missing a lot from my mid and tweet combo. It imaged pretty good, put I was losing too much.
See, I'm a big guy 6'2" and 350lbs.
I eat up a lot of air space in the truck. This, and My center console just blocked too much info from getting to my ears. 

I also wasn't satisfied with my substage. Just not enough output from the 8's. Maybe to much of the street beat spl kid still in me. Lol

But bottom line is, this was the best setup I had ever done. And it was a very, very solid first build. I was quite happy where I was at.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fast forward about a month. 
I come out from work and fire the truck up. Turn on the tunes..I'm getting nothing from the right side of the truck... Nothing.

After some trouble shooting, I find the the right side Twister has popped it's fuses. Okay, now to figure out why...

Checked all the connections, and nothing looks out of place, and Everything tested normal. I them proceed to replace the fuses... Reconnect power, and it sounded like 22 shell went off in my truck.

Whole men level of pissed. Lol

Remove the amp, and take it inside.
This is what I found...


















































Didn't even pop the fuses when it went. Lol guess it was just time to give up the ghost.

The worst part is, it took out every speaker hooked to It too.
Once I got over being mad lol, it was an opportunity to change some stuff up. Fix some of the limitations I had.. now it's back to the fun.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

So at this point, I start to sell off My remaining front stage. I want whatever I have, to be broken in for the same amount of time... I'm anal like that. Lol 
I also sell off the remaining Twister cuz I gotta have watching amps too. I figured it would be easier to start over, then try to source another f6.

On a side note, got to deal with some great guys while selling my stuff. Has been a pleasure dealing with everyone I bought from, or sold to.

Back to the classifieds.... Lol

And while I'm at it, let's work on that substage. Look what I found!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Diyma R12





























I've read about them so many times here, and I've been dying to try them. I'm concerned about my love for output, but no better way to find out then to try a pair. I'll be vary cautious with these... Lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i am loving the gear in this build. i bet it will sound spectacular!!!!


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## Complacent_One (Jul 2, 2009)

Looks to me, like you have had a bit of an airflow issue. Looks like those rear seats are completely blocking the fans. Just an observation, but looks like a likely culprit for causing a thermal failure in that amplifier....


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Complacent_One said:


> Looks to me, like you have had a bit of an airflow issue. Looks like those rear seats are completely blocking the fans. Just an observation, but looks like a likely culprit for causing a thermal failure in that amplifier....


ya know, I would completely agree with you, and that was my first thought. But it went when the vehicle, And amps had been off for 10 hours.
Granted, it was a tight fit in there, they never got hot to the touch. The seat covers make it look a little closer than it really is. 
The heatsink fins are actually on the bottom, And the amps were raised allowing air flow under them.
Hard to say, But they never went into protect, ever. It just blew. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I then found some eclipse amps for sale on here.. three 4 channels and a mono amp for about what I was looking to spend on a single amp. Screaming deal! The ea4200 were rated at 4x75w rms, so I figured I'd bridge them giving me 2x150x rms...a little bit of a power cut, but I was only worried about that for the midbass.

I also decided to try an a-pillar build. See if I could get some more sound up to me. This was going to be my first venture into fiber glassing. 
So back to the classifieds lol... Found some sweet rainbow vandy 4's. Sorry I don't have any of the pillar build, as I was sure it was going to be a failure. Lol But really it didn't turn out too bad.

Well to accomplish everything, I took a week off from work to get er done. Now anybody that has a wife and kids(4) knows that if you can get 10 hours of that week to work, your doing good.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Here are the pillars with The vandy 4's. I left the cal26's in the sails from the previous build. But I did aim and glass them to be more on axis.















The build is solid, but the finishing is what got rushed. I wouldn't mind pulling them and redoing the finish work.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

So once I figured the pillars, It was onto building a temp amp rack and enclosures for the diyma's.

I say temp because I knew I wouldn't have the time to do it like I wanted to do.... And I was in a damn hurry to hear those subs. I built two .8cf enclosures and lightly stuffed them with polyfill. Dropped the subs in, and made a makeshift rack for the eclipse amps.
It ain't pretty, but this is what I came up with.
















Now I know what your saying, that's not a diyma...yup, your right. Lol
Here's why. I put the diyma's in and gently turned up the gain. Perfect. After a week listening to them, I can say they are everything that people say they are. Smooth, precise, beautiful sounding, and so easy to blend. Absolutely loved these subs... That's why I took them out.

I know, I know, don't flame me here but I was worried about p














ushing them to hard. They just couldn't give me the output I wanted in my truck. In another enclosure or vehicle, maybe even IB I'm sure they could. Just not in my setup as it is now.

But because I loved how they sounded, they will be kept for a future build. 
Now I'm running eclipse sw8812's
Hey are a TC built sub, and do very well for me. Not as smooth as the diyma, but they have the output I was after. Very nice subs..


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well, that brings us up to present day... I think.

Sorry for the lack of pictures up to This point. Future changes will be better documented.

In the near future I'll be redoing my doors and installing peerless sls8's,
Sound deadening to the roof, and hopefully a new round of amps installed in the front center console. Of course, this will lead into a new sub enclosure... Maybe with a 15 or two. Lol stay tuned, and thanks for the positive feedback so far!









Rock on!


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

I'd love to see some pics of the work you did on your seat brackets.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

No problem, but nothing fancy. I actually Didn't do anything to the factory bracket itself, just made platforms out of the C channel.

Tomorrow, when I have some better light, I'll get under there and snap a couple. Think I have a few C channel pieces laying around too.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Little parts express love in today via FedEx 

































Peerless sls8's


















Dayton emm-6 Mic

Now to focus on getting those sls' in the front doors. I can now mate the Mic up with the mini Dell, preloaded with truerta, I got from Erin.

Let the fun begin.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I have that same Michael.it'd very nice and the Cary case is nice I keep all my PC conversion stuff in it for my rta


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'm excited to use it. I'm pretty new to tuning, and it'll be nice to see what I'm hearing. Lol

Now I just have to find a usb cable to hook up to the micmate. Got a crap ton laying around the house... Just not the right one. Lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

jcollin76 said:


> I'm excited to use it. I'm pretty new to tuning, and it'll be nice to see what I'm hearing. Lol
> 
> Now I just have to find a usb cable to hook up to the micmate. Got a crap ton laying around the house... Just not the right one. Lol


well if youd ont have one I'm sure I have one.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fric,
Sorry for the bad pic, been kinda swamped with daddy stuff lately.

As you can see (I hope), the C channel just acts as a platform. It's drilled to fit over the factory mounting bolt on The floor. Then I just matched the hole to the seat brace and drilled new on The top side. Then just sourced some new hardware, and mounted the seat to the top of the C channel.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> well if youd ont have one I'm sure I have one.


Wow, appreciate the offer man. If I can't find one in my junk box, I'll drop you a pm. Thanks!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

jcollin76 said:


> Wow, appreciate the offer man. If I can't find one in my junk box, I'll drop you a pm. Thanks!


us car audio guys gatta stick together. 


























plus i have more computer **** than i could ever know what to do with. :laugh::laugh:


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> Fric,
> Sorry for the bad pic, been kinda swamped with daddy stuff lately.
> 
> As you can see (I hope), the C channel just acts as a platform. It's drilled to fit over the factory mounting bolt on The floor. Then I just matched the hole to the seat brace and drilled new on The top side. Then just sourced some new hardware, and mounted the seat to the top of the C channel.


That looks easy enough. I wonder if I could make something like that work on my crew cab seats.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

BrittanyGulden said:


> Wow, nice install man.
> 
> I am curious to see how those Peerless SLS will work for you
> 
> I can't make my mind up between the SLS OR the Exodus Anarchys


THanks man.

Yeah I looked hard at the anarchys, but I wanted to step up to an 8.
Once I get them in, I'll def let you guys know what I think.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> That looks easy enough. I wonder if I could make something like that work on my crew cab seats.


I don't see why I wouldn't, depends on how your seats mount I guess. I will say this, it was hell getting them to all line up. Lol


A quick thanks to evilling, and Erin for setting me straight on The rta cable. Thanks again for The offer evil....


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> THanks man.
> 
> Yeah I looked hard at the anarchys, but I wanted to step up to an 8.
> Once I get them in, I'll def let you guys know what I think.


I'll be keeping an eye out for this as well. It might be alot easier to install
some 8s in my doors as opposed to a pair of 6.5s.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> I'll be keeping an eye out for this as well. It might be alot easier to install
> some 8s in my doors as opposed to a pair of 6.5s.


That was exactly my thought too. I'll let you all know... As soon as I free up some time to tear into my doors.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> That was exactly my thought too. I'll let you all know... As soon as I free up some time to tear into my doors.


Guess those sls 8s are pretty efficient for you to be willing to run at 8 ohms, huh? 

I don't know much about raw drivers.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Guess those sls 8s are pretty efficient for you to be willing to run at 8 ohms, huh?
> 
> I don't know much about raw drivers.


The plan is to bridge a jl hd600.4 on them. That would be 300w at, I believe 2-8 ohm.
It's my first run with a raw driver, so excited to try them out.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Hey J, quick question. 
I saw in another thread where you recommended some exodus anarchys to someone. Why did you decide to go with the SLS instead?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

If I remember right, he was looking for a 6.5 that could dig low, and the anarchy is something I would've used.
I went with sls because I wanted more cone area.... Hell I was considering 10's for a little bit. just didn't want that much fab work.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> If I remember right, he was looking for a 6.5 that could dig low, and the anarchy is something I would've used.
> I went with sls because I wanted more cone area.... Hell I was considering 10's for a little bit. just didn't want that much fab work.


Did you also peep out the Tang Band and TC sounds epic 8"s?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Did you also peep out the Tang Band and TC sounds epic 8"s?


Oh yeah, I looked at the epic 8's when I was going through my 8 sub phase. Lol but I didn't think they would be best suited for a mb application. I know the sls is slated as a sub, but every review I looked at was for a mb application in the door. Couple that with it's price... Seemed pretty good to try out.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

With the start of the holiday season, time is very scarse. Had about a half hour free today, so thought I'd whip out some rings for the sls8's.

Over all, I want a spacer that is 1 1/2 inches, so they will be a 3/4 mdf ring on top of a 3/4 mdf plate, so to speak.

So, I grabbed a scrap chunk of mdf and the plunge router.








Set my depth at aprox 1/4 inch, and put a nail in the 7" hole of the jasper, and made a couple passes for my ID.



















Then I set the nail in the 8 3/4 hole for my OD, and made a couple more passes. Flipped the sheet over and repeated...
Apparently I set my depth a couple notches too aggressive, cuz this is what's left of the bit. Lol










Now gotta finish them up the old fashion way...

















Not as crisp as using just the router, but a lot faster then just using the jigsaw.








Next step will be to make the base for these to be glued to. I'll have to pull the door card, and make a template. This way I can get it right for how it will interact with both the door, and mounting locations on the card...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

When I first started taking apart my interior for deadening, and routing wires, I couldn't find many tutorials on the door disassembly. So I kinda butchered my way through it. Lol

Tools needed: pick or sharp utility knife, ratchet and extensions, 10mm socket, panel removal tool, pliers, possibly a expandable magnet.

This is my door.








The door card is secured by your typical friction fit connectors, and three 10mm bolts. First thing you must do, is gain access to the bolts. Two are located behind a trim panel, just behind the door pull, the third is located behind a panel at the door latch pull.
















































Once you have gained access to, and removed the 10mm bolts, you must remove the lock pull cover.

When it's in the unlocked position (up) you will see a small square that needs to be pulled out. This released the friction hold on the lock rod. You will need a pick, or the point of a shape utility knife to get it to pop out. The square doesn't need to come off, but be cautious, because it can pop off. So be ready, and have the ground below you clear, should you have to hunt for that damn tiny thing.
















Something I have found to be good practise, is place all your small parts is a labeled bag. It's so easy for something to be lost, or broken if your not sure where it is....and gets stepped on. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Bag of goodies...








Next, you'll need to remove the panel that gain you access to the mirror mounting bolts. It's the black triangle section on the top front of your panel.








There are three friction fittings that hold the panel on, one at the top, one at the rear bottom, and one at tif bottom middle that actually goes into the door card.








Use a panel removal tool to gently pry it off.
I then move to the switch panel, this is also held with friction fittings. Gently work this up from the door card. The edges are thin, so don't pry there. instead move the tool in until you feel it stop. Then you'll be applying force closer to the main box of the panel. Less chance of snapping something off.
















Turn over and disconnect the wires from the switch assembly, and set aside in a safe place.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Now, when you have that stuff out of the way, it's time to start working on the cards friction fittings. There are aprox a dozen of them around the front, bottom, and rear of the card. I find it best to start working them with panel removal tool in the least visible spot. I work on the bottom, near the front or rear corner. Once you get a couple popped out, you can use your hand to gently pull the panel out to free the rest. THe tool is great, but it can mar the panel... So I like using my hands as much as possible.








Once you get it free, you'll need to lift it straight up to clear the lock rod, and free the channel.
The top of the door panel has a white plastic ledge that fits down into a rubber ledge in the weather stripping.
















The bottom of the card is fitted with two plastic hooks. These hooks latch onto two square cut outs in the door to support the card. Set the hooks, then you can lean the card back towards you and access the latch cable assembly, and pull your switch wiring out.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

To free the cable from the latch assembly, you'll need some small needle nose pliers or similar (forgot to mention them in needed tools LOl). Use the pliers to squeeze the end of the clip, and pull it out of the assembly. Careful doing this, the edge of the assembly is fairly thin. I managed to crack mine the first time I took it apart.
















Then you can fish the wire and retaining barb, from the actual latch. once the cable is loose, your free to modify, or work on your door/card.


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## jsun_g (Jun 12, 2008)

Build is turning out great man! Those amps sure look familiar  Staying tuned for progress and tips for finding time for this hobby with a recent addition to the family!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks Jason, they are doing a great job.  wish I had them installed a little better, but wanted them in. Time was limited... As I'm sure your finding out. Lol 

Gotta do what ya can, when ya can.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

#1000


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## Rbohno (Oct 29, 2011)

What an awesome build! Bad A_ _ truck too!


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Looks good!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Looks good!


Thanks bud!

Just got this in the mail yesterday.
























Hope to use this in moving all my amps to under the front center console.
The knuconcept distribution blocks I have are nice, but would be a bit cumbersome to mount under the console. 
I hope to flush mount the Audison in a way I'll have easy access to all system fuses.
However, I will miss the voltmeters the knu's had. Lol

The plan is to finish up the baffle, and mount the sls's on my days off this week. They will only be getting aprox 75w rms until I get the new amps, but I'm anxious to hear them!


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Ohhh nice 

I have one of the older streetwires distribution blocks they no longer make anymore. I really liked mine alot and it really helped keeping the 3 amps all together without a huge mess.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'm really looking forward to relocating my amps. Shorter runs of everything.... Hell, my rca's coming from the p99 will only be 2-3'. And having such short power run, I'm also thinking of running a dedicated ground from my aux bat, and not grounding to the chassis.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> I'm really looking forward to relocating my amps. Shorter runs of everything.... Hell, my rca's coming from the p99 will only be 2-3'. And having such short power run, I'm also thinking of running a dedicated ground from my aux bat, and not grounding to the chassis.


Yeah i think I saw that in doitors ride, looked really nice and most likely weight saving with less wire  hah not to mention the smaller amps


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well, small update. Haven't had much time as of late, so no new pics to share.
Caught the bug going around, so home from work, and really didn't want to venture out in the cold. Lol

However, what more appropriate way to feel better, than to spend some money ordering materials. 
I got a trunk pack coming from second skin, I ordered some fg supplies from uscomposites, and some peel and stick ensolite from raamaudio. 
Once all that stuff arrives, and I finish my baffles for the sls' I should have everything I need to finish the doors!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I have my makeshift rings assembled. They're not pretty, but will do what they're supposed to. Lol








It's a 3/4 mdf ring glued to another 3/4 ring/plate. They were glued with gorilla wood glue, I've had good luck with it. I then used a little rattle can primer and coated them with bed liner. I sanded down the face of the ring, to provide a smooth surface for the driver mounting.








On the back of the ring, I used some non hardening clay to decouple the ring, but more so to even out some of the door skins irregularities. Once secured to the door, I'll fill in with more clay and cover with damp pro, and ensolite.
















A small comparison of the profi kicks that are coming out, and the sls' that are going in.
After doing a test fit, the sls will fit with minor modifications. No issues with depth in the door, and only minor trimming to the rear of the door card. If you cut out the factory grill area, out to the panel line, it's a perfect fit for 8 inch drivers. Even with the 1 1/2 spacer, the drivers have maybe a 1/4 gap from hitting the card.. and with the cutting of the grill, they can reach full excursion and not hit anything... Nice! Lol

I'll post up pics later of the door card trimming, and clearance when installed.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

The three mounting locations surrounding the speaker location needed to be trimmed back to accommodate the larger baffle and driver.
























I took a dremel with a small barrel sander, and shaved back aprox 1/4", making sure to follow the radius of the cut out.
























I found if you can leave at least half of the plastic welds, the mounting 'towers' still remain very solid. 








This is the rough cut out In the door card. In the factory card, this is where the body line would start to angle down to the factory grill. Nice thing is, you cut just the grill and it fits 6 1/2 speakers perfectly. Cut at the body line and it'll fit 8" drivers... Very handy. I'll just need to fab up some suitable grills now, but that's for another day.








Sorry for the night time pics, but a LOT less daylight hours anymore. As you can see, complete clearance for the movement of the driver. 








Here is an idea how much clearance you have between the card and speaker. So, with a 1 1/2 spacer, there is quite a bit of room behind the card for a good size midbass. The pics were from my test fit today, so I'll need to pull the card an secure everything. It'll need some more deadening around the baffle, and then covered with some peel and stick ensolite.
I might also apply some foam between the baffle and door card, to help funnel the sound out thought the card. This will also help stop any possible buzzing of the card, right next to the drivers


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Looks good man! I can't wait to see this in person


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Looks good man! I can't wait to see this in person


Thanks man.
I'll have to button it up as far as some additional deadening. Also want to fg the door openings... Instead of just the sandwiched roof flashing. Should clean up the door quite a bit. 

Oh, I ended up getting a hd600.4, so starting in that direction. Lol 
Come on warm weather!


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Warmer weather would be nice, but I don't think its going to happen anytime soon 

So instead I'm hoping for a nice heater for the garage! lol


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

Looking good bud. Love 8's in the doors. All the extra work sucks, but when executed properly is totally worth it. Kicks are best, but not always workable.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rugdnit said:


> Looking good bud. Love 8's in the doors. All the extra work sucks, but when executed properly is totally worth it. Kicks are best, but not always workable.


Thanks man! Would've loved to try the 8's in the kicks, but just not enough room. I would've had to do some extensive cutting... Not to mention I need all the leg room I can get. Lol

How did your center channel work out for ya?


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## oxsign (Jan 3, 2009)

Great work so far and thx for the door write up. I just got a 2010 avalanche and I couldn't find a good write up for taking them of either. It detoured me from messing with them. Now that I see it done, it seems fairly easy.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

oxsign said:


> Great work so far and thx for the door write up. I just got a 2010 avalanche and I couldn't find a good write up for taking them of either. It detoured me from messing with them. Now that I see it done, it seems fairly easy.


Thank you.
No problem, I was hoping it would help someone out down the road. Glad it did!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Got some goodies in the mail this week.
My order from us composites came in. My limited tries at fiber glassing, I just used cheap supplies I picked up from Walmart. Lol I enjoyed glassing, and have read several times using higher quality mat and resin will net you higher quality results... Makes complete sense!

But in my defense, I wanted to practice with the cheap stuff and see if I could even do it. Lol
My personal starter kit...









Got a trunk pack of damp pro for my roof, and the glass panels I plan to make sealing off the doors.

















I also got 4 yards of ensolite peal and stick from Raamaudio. I opted for this over ss offering because of the already applied adhesive. This = easier lol
I have a bad habit of getting spray adhesive all over...










Plus, I think Rick is a helluva nice guy. 

There is a thread running right now about pwk's enclosure designs. Out of curiosity, I hit up YouTube and was checking out what all the talk was about. 
I can't say either way really, but it wasn't wasted time. In some of his vehicle prep videos there were some cool little tips is reducing rattles and general deadening.
What I liked was using silicone to stop your clips from vibrating... Very handy.

So since I have my panels off, time to try it out for myself...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I also tried a thin coating around the openings you bolt through. It's not pretty, but should do the trick. 








I gotta say, with the silicone cured, it's very solid and no plastic on plastic squeak when wiggled. True test will be in the vehicle...

Back to the doors.
This is my door with the MLV pulled off... Lots of lovely glue residue left behind.








Taking the MLV off pulled most of the aluminum tape off the seams, so I just finished what it started. Here are some closer shots of the areas that needed covered. 

























They did the job pretty well, but I'd like them to seal better. Glassing them will allow me to accommodate the different level changes and wire/cable pass throughs better.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Do you think that Silicone will make it harder to put the panel back on? ...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Do you think that Silicone will make it harder to put the panel back on? ...


It shouldn't. It mainly fills the towers, compressing the plug tightly and not letting it wiggle. You just have to make sure it's fully seated, so when the silicone cures it's in the right location.
As far as around the bolt holes, It's a pretty thin layer. It should compress pretty easily once tightened down. At least I'm hoping so... Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

These are the clips in the door that the card gets bolted to. I'm using aluminum tape to keep them from rattling.... And they rattle bad! I think I'm going to remove the tape and try some silicone on them as well. I'll need to cover them after I try that anyway, they leave some good little holes so you can slide the clip onto the sheetmetal.

This is where I'm sitting with the sls install..








I need to pull the sandwich covers to finish running damp pro around the baffle. I'm kinda at a crossroads now, and not sure what I want to do next. I need to pull the covers, but I'm not sure if I have the time, or compliant weather to glass the new covers.
But without doing this, I can't go any further with the door. 

I guess I'll just pull them, and deal with the diminished mb output until I can get them glassed. At least this way I can finish the sls install, and get the baffle and door covered in ensolite. Oh, and not to mention get my card back on and have use of my windows and heated seats again.... It gets cold in Iowa!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Pulled off the sandwiched tin, and found some big holes.








Yeah, I know... Eggcrate foam. LOL to my surprise, it was bone dry. But I pulled it anyway, just to be safe. Threw in some luxury liner instead.
















There is a cross member that runs horizontally across the whole door. You can't put anything over it and be able to role the window down. So I went up to the base of it, and tucked it up under. I also went above the cross member. I know it's not full coverage, but it's the best I can get.:blush:
























Then I managed to get a layer of ensolite down before I lost all my daylight. Lol
Next is to get something on the wires to prevent any annoying rattles...


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

jcollin76 said:


> Thanks man! Would've loved to try the 8's in the kicks, but just not enough room. I would've had to do some extensive cutting... Not to mention I need all the leg room I can get. Lol
> 
> How did your center channel work out for ya?


It has not come along very far... lol. Busy season. Things will calm down a but in late January. I should be able to tackle it then. I know what you mean about no room in kicks. I didn't want to put the 8's in the doors, but had no choice. I used alot of mlv and ccf from sds and could not be happier. No rattles etc etc. I can't wait to hear how you like the Peerless 8's. I was tempted to try them over the L8's. Those things just look so beefy.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rugdnit said:


> It has not come along very far... lol. Busy season. Things will calm down a but in late January. I should be able to tackle it then. I know what you mean about no room in kicks. I didn't want to put the 8's in the doors, but had no choice. I used alot of mlv and ccf from sds and could not be happier. No rattles etc etc. I can't wait to hear how you like the Peerless 8's. I was tempted to try them over the L8's. Those things just look so beefy.


Yeah I hear ya on busy. Lol
So far I really like them, but I don't think I've heard their best yet... Too new. But I really like how they fill out the front stage. My bass is much better as far as being forward and high. I have them crossed from 63Hz to 315Hz, wish they could play a little higher... But what they do, they do well. 
I'll give more detailed thoughts once they loosen up, and my doors are done. Lol


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Was great meeting with you today Jim! Truck sounds awesome! I can't thank you enough for the listen session and the tour of the P99.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Was great meeting with you today Jim! Truck sounds awesome! I can't thank you enough for the listen session and the tour of the P99.


Thank you.
Was my pleasure Chris, any time!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well, it's been some time since I updated my log, time to pick it back up...

The family and I moved the first of the year, So that has ate up unbelievable amounts of time! But, as of now, we are comfortably in our new home (not house anymore).

I've managed to catch a serious "let's change stuff up" bug. Everything has been pulled from the truck, minus the p99 and cables.
Rca's will be pulled, as the plan is for my new amps to be mounted up front, under the center console.

I'll be making my own short cables (sub 3') for the new location.

In the following posts, I'll be documenting the finishing of my doors... And The addition of zr 800's.
Removal of the console, and amp rack build, new kicks and pillars, new sub enclosure, and misc deadening projects. Should be a fun summer! 
I'll leave ya with some new equipment pics... Some still on the way too.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Fun Fun  Can't wait to hear it!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Fun Fun  Can't wait to hear it!


Hear it nothing... If I had my way, you'd be busting knuckles with me. Lol

Now we just need to get you rolling on yours... So you can love it, hate it, then change it. Lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

jcollin76 said:


> Now we just need to get you rolling on yours... So you can love it, hate it, then change it. Lol


if those aint the truest words ive ever heard. last spring when i finished my last build I heard it, loved it. than took it to compete saw its faults, heard other systems than i leanred to hate it  but i'd love a set of head phones right now in my car as ive had my system out of my car all winter since late fall. i've been watching your buyild for awhile though, can't wait to see the upgrades  ive always wondered about that harder to find, pioneer gear, idk why they are so hard to get ahold of.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> if those aint the truest words ive ever heard. last spring when i finished my last build I heard it, loved it. than took it to compete saw its faults, heard other systems than i leanred to hate it  but i'd love a set of head phones right now in my car as ive had my system out of my car all winter since late fall. i've been watching your buyild for awhile though, can't wait to see the upgrades  ive always wondered about that harder to find, pioneer gear, idk why they are so hard to get ahold of.


Yeah I've done my time driving around with half, or no system. lol Think we all have...
Have some "no tune" time ahead of me now. But it's sure fun once you get it all put together. Thanks for following along!

I have some crazy idea I want to try... on paper it looks like it will work.. but have to see how it sounds. 

Fingers crossed it's not complete ass. lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

This is kind of a verbal layout of what I'd like to try....

P99 high out put-->600/4 a channel--> cal28 in the pillar, deep in the dash on axis.
Mid output-->600/4 b channel--->PRS mid on the same plane as tweet, on axis.

The above will be treated like a large format tweeter, all processing and x-overs done at the p99. The tweet will be crossed around 6-8k, just for the very high end. The prs is supposed to be good up to 8k, we'll see once it's in. Lol

Low output---> #2 600/4 a channel---> Plat mid in the kick on axis.
sub output---> #2 600/4 b channel---> ZR800 in the stock door location.

the low output (plat) x-overs at the p99. The sub out put will be hp at p99 25-30hz and lp at arond 80-100hz. The ZR's will then be hp at the amp around 50hz. I am concerned with the transition from the platinum to the prs. I'd like to treat the plat as a high playing mb. So where that x-over and slope are at is an issue. The line out from the #2 600/4---> 1200/1

The 1200/1 will then be lp at the amp around 63 hz, feeding a pair of ported DIYMA R12's.

All x-over points are aproximate at this point, but had to give some figures for it to be understandable.
The 1200/1 can be turned off for auto eq/ta, and then tuned back in to blend. I'll also have 3 hd-rlc's to help in level adjustment/blending. They will more than likely be on the subs, zr's, and mids. I don't plan to adjust the mids on the fly, but I like being able to turn them off for tuning. With the p99, it's the only output you can't mute.

If any of you have ideas, or see potential problems, please let me know. I'd like to try this setup out, but any trouble shooting in advance would be great. I'm super excited to dive in again!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Started working on my cables today. I got some canare lv-77s coax cable, ordered 4 pairs of monster cable ends, and got a mass of tech flex and heat shrink.
This is my first attempt at making cables... so go easy on me. Lol I know its been covered many times, but want some constructive criticism on ho to improve. I already know my soldering leaves a lot to be desired... but I gotta learn some time. Lol

Okay. I need 8 short runs from the p99, to my new amp location under the center console.
Here is the cable...








The monster ends I'm working with...
















I started by cutting the lengths I needed, and getting a rca end ready to go. The clip needs to be spread to accept the fairly large cable. I also needed to dremel the hole on the shell out, to be able to slide over the cable.
Once that was completed, I start working with the cable.








Here I determine where the base of the cable would be, and cut the jacket down to the first sheild, and remove.








Now I determine the width of the clamp, and use a razor to start cutting through the first sheild.









Using fresh blades was key to ease of the process... I have 100 count of these, and use a new one for each end. Lol








Once your through the first sheild, it should pull off in one nice piece... but not always. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

No clue why the pics doubled up. Sorry, I'll try and clean them up...

When I try to edit the post, it only shows one URL per pic... anybody have any ideas? Using tapatalk, and doing direct URL links from photobucket.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

jcollin76 said:


> No clue why the pics doubled up. Sorry, I'll try and clean them up...
> 
> When I try to edit the post, it only shows one URL per pic... anybody have any ideas? Using tapatalk, and doing direct URL links from photobucket.


You need to "right click" and save the image's address. 
Then copy the link between









Kelvin


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

subwoofery said:


> You need to "right click" and save the image's address.
> Then copy the link between
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Kelvin, l think that's similar to what I'm doing. But I I can only use my phone... easy in some ways, more difficult in others. 

Recently got a new phone... I'm sure operator error has something to do with it.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Okay let's try this again.
Now once the sheild is trimmed to size, I compared again to see how much of the center conductor to expose. I just used the 10awg notch on my strippers to get close. Then carefully finish with a razor.
















Once everything is exposed, and cleaned up, slide the shell onto the cable. Cut a small piece of heat shrink for covering the joints and slide it on.















Now I seated the center conductor in the tit, and rotated the clamp up onto the shield. The clamp is soft enough to get it tightened down some by hand. Then straighten it up, so all is square.















Then you can clamp it down with your strippers, or some needle nose pliers. Make sure the theeth are solid into the sheild.















Here is a look at my terrible solder job. Its ugly, but solid.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Now I slide the heat shrink up to seal the solder joints.








I ended up using a smaller piece than I'd like... ideally, I would want it completely covered. But, it was interfering with the barrel when I tried tightening it.















And this is how she ended up.
Now to add the pretty stuff 
I chose to use 1/4" platinum techflex. Fish it over the unterminated end, and work it down.








Get it flush with the end of the barrel, and pull it tight to the cable, working back to the open end. Cut with scissors... I don't mess with hot knives or lighters, it won't have much time to unravel.








Then cut two pieces of heat shrink and slide them on. How long they are, is determined by how much coverage you want on the rca... and how far it extends down the cable.








Slide one up on to the rca, heat to seal up to the techflex and rca.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

For easier working on the other end, I just push the tech flex up and tape it off.








Then you just start the process over again...
I don't think they are turning out too bad, but if you see anything I can improve on... please let me know. Lol

Oh yeah, got some stuff in the mail today...








This is why I hate UPS. Met the driver at the door.... "guess it got a little wet in my truck"... ya think?!:banghead:




































Can't wait to listen to these bad boys, and have a side by side with the sls's.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Rainy day project #1. Lol
Had some extra monster cable laying around, and wanted to but some quick disconnects on the zr's. Purchased some deans connectors, and have some 1/8 techflex I need to use up... so don't flame me for making them pretty. Lol
























This is what I ended up with...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Last of the teaser pics...I promise. Lol

Its just that I got a package today, that I've been waiting some time for! I'm super pumped, if you can't tell. 
































Hows this for a future line up...




































I can't wait for some consistently nice weather to make this happen. Lol


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

NICE....I would have to sleep with them till I got them installed....

I love how addictive this hobby is. I have been trying to talk my friends close by into building a stereo.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

chaser9478 said:


> NICE....I would have to sleep with them till I got them installed....
> 
> I love how addictive this hobby is. I have been trying to talk my friends close by into building a stereo.


Lol thanks man... but I if I took them to bed, it'd be the only thing with me. Love um an all... but I I need my baby to keep me warm.

Know the feeling... not many around here to share stuff with. Stopf, Rodney, and you get long distance honorable mention. Lol


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

We have beautiful weather here, come on by...lol


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

I wish I had room for a line up like that. My stereo has changed my listening greatly. The classic rock that was recorded with imaging in mind....my wife and I fight over it....lol

I bet tool would be amazing with that line up....


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

chaser9478 said:


> We have beautiful weather here, come on by...lol


So... warm weather leads to cold remarks?! Lol truthfully, this has been a crazy winter/spring... take it any year. 







chaser9478 said:


> I wish I had room for a line up like that. My stereo has changed my listening greatly. The classic rock that was recorded with imaging in mind....my wife and I fight over it....lol
> 
> I bet tool would be amazing with that line up....


Trust me... I WILL be finding out.


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

It has been 70+ and clear here....nice

My wife hates tool but my son and I love it. Lateralus, loud! They just sound amazing on a good stereo.

I was going to get an ipod but I have to pull the dash for the cable, so I am sticking to cds. The used ones on amazon are hard to beat. I know its in my head but they sound better....lol better than pulling the dash


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I love drums and percussion, and how can you not love tool if you love drums! Lol

I think Danny is one of, if not the best, technically sound drummer in modern rock/metal.


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

I would have to agree. I like neal peart and bonnham too.

Tool just sounds great. Ecspecially at high volume. 

I have a zombie live cd I have been wearing out lately. I have came to love live cd's.

Where did you have your titan 26's hp'd at? Mine sound great at 3k, the cal25's sounded better lower at around 2.5k but the titans rule. Detailed


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

chaser9478 said:


> I would have to agree. I like neal peart and bonnham too.
> 
> Tool just sounds great. Ecspecially at high volume.
> 
> ...


I started with them at like 2.5k I think, but ended up higher between 3-4k.


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## 2kchevy (Aug 8, 2007)

Looks great. Makes me miss my Chevy.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2kchevy said:


> Looks great. Makes me miss my Chevy.


Thank you sir.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Finished the 8 main runs... only have to make a stubby pair for the sub amp yet.

Pretty pleased with the outcome... none of them will be scene, but glad I made them.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

haha man you are the only other person I know from this forum who takes as many pictures of their project as me  and man those mid bass's are deeeeep how deep are those things?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> haha man you are the only other person I know from this forum who takes as many pictures of their project as me  and man those mid bass's are deeeeep how deep are those things?


Lol I like pictures... other guys pics help, and motivate me... maybe I can motivate or help someone else.

The zr's are 3.4, and the platinum's are 3.2. I don't think that's too bad. Lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

wow looked deeper. yeah nothing wrong with pictures its the only reason i finely got off my ass for my build lol but im still at a snails pace


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Been working on various glassing projects for the truck. Started with the ones that would be hidden, in hopes my technique would improve before tackling visible ones. Lol

I'm wanting a two tier rack under the center console for amps, fusing, and cap. Started by masking off the transmission hump.








Used some cardboard to bridge low areas, and provide a flat surface for mounting equipment.
























After four alternating layers of mat and cloth, I got this...








Its not pretty, but it's solid, and that's all I cared about at this point.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Next up was sealing the front doors... well at least the drivers door. 
I had them sealed with a sandwich of flashing and damp pro. It worked well enough, but wanted something more solid, to make the door as good of environment as possible for the zr's. 

Taped up some cardboard in the openings for a backer, and masked it all off.








Used some spray adhesive to hold up s couple layers of cloth. I learned pretty quickly that I don't care for glassing vertical surfaces.. at least not a couple layers at a time. It all worked out though.

Trimmed it up, put a layer of damp pro on the backside center...









Covered the front side with Ensolite peal and stick (love that stuff). Then I used gaffers tape to give it a more finished edge. I didn't like the exposed glass on the edges. 








I'll take pics of them in once the zr's are in too. They fit great, solid as hell too. Worth the effort in my opinion.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Todays rainy day project...seems to be trend on my days off... wanted to dress up the metra kit for the p99.

Was a free kit from Crutchfield, but never cared for the little pocket below the din opening. So, gotta go...


















Couple passes with the handy multi trim tool, and ended up with this...


















I wanted a location to mount the three HD-rlc's, so figured this was a prime location. I originally though to hide them, but I know they will be used almost daily for the sub amp. I also didn't want the sub control handy, and the others mounted elsewhere. So if you don't like them out in the open... tough sh..
Used some CA glue, and stretched some spandex across the opening. Resin the outside, and a couple layers of mat from the back..










Not many progress shots, as I just wanted to get it done. Not the best attitude to have, as a couple things I could've done better if I took my time. Lol


























My drill walked like crazy on me. So the rlc's are crooked... well the left one is low anyway. I don't like how the trim piece is kinda warped up on the bottom. See what I can do with that.
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with it. Its a daily driver... no comp vehicle here. Lol









And in the dash.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Yet another rainy day in central Iowa.

Mock up of the amp rack for the center console. 

































Second tier for the cap, and fuse distribution.









































Lets hope I can stuff it all inside the console.


----------



## bigguy2010 (May 18, 2010)

Love the build man, those JL HD amps are sheeexy!!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

bigguy2010 said:


> Love the build man, those JL HD amps are sheeexy!!


Thanks man! 

Can't wait to piece this jigsaw puzzle together, and get some listening/tuning time in. Lol


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

how did I not catch this thread earlier? Looking good man! Ill be able to keep up now that I will be subsribed.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> how did I not catch this thread earlier? Looking good man! Ill be able to keep up now that I will be subsribed.


Welcome to the party pal!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> Welcome to the party pal!


There's a party?!


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> There's a party?!


Well, not just yet. Lol
But this fall, us knotheads are going to have a gt. I live 100ft from a lil park...I'll bring the beverages.... sound like a plan?


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Well that means I better hurry up and get my install done  sounds good tho!


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

Ive got a little more to do on mine as well, but nothing too crazy. Waiting for J to get this glassing figured out, so he can glass the tweeters into the A pillars for me.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Well that means I better hurry up and get my install done  sounds good tho!



no need to hurry, hell ...we could do a build party. Lol
I'd just be happy to get together and talk shop... ya know?






rodneypierce said:


> Ive got a little more to do on mine as well, but nothing too crazy. Waiting for J to get this glassing figured out, so he can glass the tweeters into the A pillars for me.


Mock up your angles, and I'd be happy to. Lol


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

Yeah, I was messing with that a little bit earlier tonight. Gave up and just put the rings back on the bench. LOL.

Just got the rear deck plastered with deadener. Pretty solid now, just hope I never have to remove all of that ****. good lord!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Ya having trouble aiming, or mounting the rings?

Yeah, but once you get your subs in, all that work will be worth it. Not to mention, you'll still have your trunk!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> no need to hurry, hell ...we could do a build party. Lol
> I'd just be happy to get together and talk shop... ya know?
> 
> 
> ...


Let me know when  need to glass up the box and then work on the sails. Build party would be fun!


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> Ya having trouble aiming, or mounting the rings?
> 
> Yeah, but once you get your subs in, all that work will be worth it. Not to mention, you'll still have your trunk!


The tweeters I want to run are XT25's. So the flange is a little bigger then normal. About 2 3/4 inches around. So I was just holding the rings in place earlier. Aiming then will be pretty easy. I will just point them both at the upper center console on the head liner.

What are people using to aim them and hold the rings for mock up? modeling clay or what??


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> The tweeters I want to run are XT25's. So the flange is a little bigger then normal. About 2 3/4 inches around. So I was just holding the rings in place earlier. Aiming then will be pretty easy. I will just point them both at the upper center console on the head liner.
> 
> What are people using to aim them and hold the rings for mock up? modeling clay or what??


I used this stuff called bluetac( funtuck). Itch kinda like butyl, but leaves less residue. Used for holding pictures and posters on the wall. Most craft stores will have it.


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> I used this stuff called bluetac( funtuck). Itch kinda like butyl, but leaves less residue. Used for holding pictures and posters on the wall. Most craft stores will have it.


ah, I know the stuff. perfect. Thanks J


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

Awesome!!!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

derickveliz said:


> Awesome!!!


Thank you sir!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

jcollin76 said:


> Welcome to the party pal!


Did you *mean* to quote Diehard? LOL

Jay


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Did you *mean* to quote Diehard? LOL
> 
> Jay


Lol absolutely. Heard Bruce in my head when I was tying it.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Funny, I heard him in *my* head when I read it. LOL

Nice job on the truck.

Jay


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Funny, I heard him in *my* head when I read it. LOL
> 
> Nice job on the truck.
> 
> Jay


Thanks man.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Today's efforts: the good...








































So far all I can say is... its gonna be a tight fit. Lol however, I think with minor adjustments, its gonna be just fine. The main ground wire will get its own notches in the rack... clean it up some. 
Putting the console over it will be the moment of truth.

The bad: 
I have some trouble shooting ahead of me. The cap display and power led don't work. The p99 won't power on either... that makes me sad! Have to wait till morning though...


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Always look forward to bits of your build. Keep up the great work.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Always look forward to bits of your build. Keep up the great work.


Thanks fric, glad your still following along!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Ohhh I can now see what you were talking about 

Looking good man.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Ohhh I can now see what you were talking about
> 
> Looking good man.


Make more sense? It about has to be a ground issue I think.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

As far as this trouble shooting is concerned, I'll try to give you guys some details. Feel free to offer up your thoughts and ideas on it...

Ixos 5 farad cap- charged it up with the supplied bulb...let me tell ya, caps make me nervous. Lol but all went well. Problem is, the voltage display and led status light don't come on. Cap was brand new, so it's either defective, or I did something wrong. I don't need either, as it will be hidden anyway, as long as the cap still function correctly I'm good. With the truck running, I measured 14.8 at the battery, and 14.6 at the d-block after the cap. Truck off, the cap measured like 12.8, so it seems to be functioning okay.

Now the p99 is my big concern at the moment. It does nothing...can't get it to power up. But... I've added the btb200, and an aswc. I also moved the ground from the frame in the dash, to the d-block. This in an effort to combat system noise. Guessing any one of these things could be the culprit ... but hoping its just a ground issue. I'll pull it in the morning to look into it further.

If you guys have any ideas, let me know. I'd appreciate the insight.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

If I get nothing more done this weekend, or even this summer... this makes me very happy! 








She lives again!!!

After pulling the deck out, checking all fuses, and some head scratching... I discovered the input plug on the GM/onstar interface, wasn't fully seated.
What a relief!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Awesome  That would definately cause me some troubled nights sleeping hah


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

Love the flexibility of those JL amps bud. Allows for some pretty tight installs. Happy hear you got the head unit power worked out. I would love to ditch my stock unit in the traverse.


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

Good news brother!!

I would be sweating a little bit myself over that one.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks guys. Yeah, not sure what I was gonna do if I couldn't figure it out.

Not going to lie, I was a bit worried.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Did you figure out what was wrong with the cap? I got the same exact one, but havent had a chance to install it yet due to other obligations.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Timelessr1 said:


> Did you figure out what was wrong with the cap? I got the same exact one, but havent had a chance to install it yet due to other obligations.


No I haven't yet. So far it seems to function just fine... just no display. I'd be more apt to look into it, if it wasn't such a pita to get our of there. 

If I dive into it, and figure out what it is, ill shoot ya a pm. Hoping you have no issues with yours though!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

jcollin76 said:


> No I haven't yet. So far it seems to function just fine... just no display. I'd be more apt to look into it, if it wasn't such a pita to get our of there.
> 
> If I dive into it, and figure out what it is, ill shoot ya a pm. Hoping you have no issues with yours though!


thank appreciate it ...now i might end up just taking it out of the box and trying it n the bench to see if it all works. 

does it need a remote "turn on" lead to it? i remeber i had a phoenix gold dist block that took a remote "turn on" lead to activate the LED's in it..not sure if this is something like that or not...


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Nope, three 0awg inputs each, for positive and negative. I also thought maybe I missed a rto or something, but nothing...


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

ok...i tried my cap, and the digital voltage display works...but there is a button you need to hit right on the face of the cap (next to the voltage display) to get the voltage to come up. Then is stays displayed for like a min or so, and then automatically shuts off


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Hmm. Maybe I was confusing that button as a led status light. Never attempted to push it. Lol

Thanks man! I'll check it out.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Small update:

This last week has been very busy and stressful at work, so haven't had the energy to do much. 

But time to get back at it...
I ran out of resin, so places an order with us composites and should be here soon. Started getting ready for more glassing fun! 

















Passenger kick all taped up and ready to go..
















Passenger pillar taped up and ready.

















Got the drivers side pillar done a week, or so, ago. 
These will just be a base, not an enclosure. The prs' and Cal 28's will mount to these behind the pillars, which will be opened up to allow clear line of sight.

Just need to figure out how to make them look nice.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

so your not using youe existing A pillar as the base...you're making an entire new one with fiberglass?


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

i believe he is covering them with the existing pillars somehow... atleast from conversation that's what it sounded like


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

That will be interesting.....im curious how he'll get the pillars back if he fiberglasses without them there to begin with....but i guess we'll see....


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Timelessr1 said:


> so your not using youe existing A pillar as the base...you're making an entire new one with fiberglass?


No, just a base that will extend up a couple inches for mounting purposes.
My current pillar will be the outside shell... with some serious modification first. Lol

I don't need to fabricate an enclosure for the prs', as they already have one. This was one if the reasons I wanted to try them this way. 
I'm hoping to have them recessed far in the pillar/ window corners. 






Timelessr1 said:


> That will be interesting.....im curious how he'll get the pillars back if he fiberglasses without them there to begin with....but i guess we'll see....


The plan is to trim the base to fit nicely inside the pillar. I just wanted a nice flat platform to mount the mid/tweet. But I am planing to build out the pillar... just not as far as a traditional pillar mount.

Now, I just have to see if my Fab skills can match what's in my head. 








Stoph said:


> i believe he is covering them with the existing pillars somehow... atleast from conversation that's what it sounded like


You DO listen to me! Lol 

I have a feeling I'm going to be bouncing a lot of this off ya... so be ready! 
... but not this weekend... have fun man!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Why me!? I'm horrible at this whole thing  You know I'll listen tho 

i'm still trying to figure out how I want to make my kicks lol.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Why me!? I'm horrible at this whole thing  You know I'll listen tho
> 
> i'm still trying to figure out how I want to make my kicks lol.


Bah!! Your not horrible, just slow.  and nothing wrong with taking your time.

You have good ideas, and thinking out loud helps us both. May give you ideas on what to try in yours.... never know.

Not to mention, us Iowa boys gotta stick together!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> Bah!! Your not horrible, just slow.  and nothing wrong with taking your time.
> 
> You have good ideas, and thinking out loud helps us both. May give you ideas on what to try in yours.... never know.
> 
> Not to mention, us Iowa boys gotta stick together!


I'm slow for a reason!!  I do **** work if I go fast haha


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

Looking good J. Been a while, hope all is well with you guys


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> Looking good J. Been a while, hope all is well with you guys


Thanks man! Was just asking stoph where ya been. 

You get your package okay?


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

I actually have not gotten it. I just figured you got busy and hadnt sent it yet. If you did send it, its floating around in the iowa postal service somewhere. LOL

I have been good man. Just been busy with work. been working 12 hour days and saturday's. I thought I had little free time before. LOL! Seems like all I have been doing for the last 3 weeks is non stop working.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> I actually have not gotten it. I just figured you got busy and hadnt sent it yet. If you did send it, its floating around in the iowa postal service somewhere. LOL
> 
> I have been good man. Just been busy with work. been working 12 hour days and saturday's. I thought I had little free time before. LOL! Seems like all I have been doing for the last 3 weeks is non stop working.


No way, really? Sent it like a week ago...
See what I can find out, ill get another out to you! Sorry bro!

I feel ya on work. We just had an audit...yuck. prep wiped me out, but we passed with a 98% approval! Big feather in our institution's cap.


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

awesome man! Great job. 
You dont have to send another one out to me. It will show up here or at your place eventually.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> awesome man! Great job.
> You dont have to send another one out to me. It will show up here or at your place eventually.


Thanks man... huge campus effort.

Well, you let me know if/when it shows. May just send some more anyway...


----------



## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Less talky more worky worky!

I don't participate in the forum as much as I used to. But when I lurk I always stop by your thread J. Keep it up!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Less talky more worky worky!
> 
> I don't participate in the forum as much as I used to. But when I lurk I always stop by your thread J. Keep it up!


Means a lot Fric, thank you!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

End result for the weekend...








Passenger pillar base. Two layers of roving, two layers of mat. Not to self: that **** cures fast in a hot truck surrounded by aluminum foil! 








Passenger kick. Two layers of roving, then three layers of mat. She's pretty sturdy now, but imagine the quickcrete will REALLY stiffen things up. 








Running out of daylight, so I think this weekends adventure is done for now.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Hoping this week will yield some solid progress... took this upcoming week off!
So I should get a solid ten hours of the work in... if I'm lucky. Lol

I've been kinda tinkering with some interior accoustuc treatments. Posted these pics in another thread, but I'll put them here as well..








Sail panel ... basic recovering from a previous tweet install.








Small panel in the foot well adjacent from the driver kick.
















Steering column

Starting to get the kicks shaped and working on forming them up.

















Yes I know all that stuff is still in the way. Lol relocating the e -brake just wasn't something I wanted to mess with.
So, going to do my best to work around it... even though I never use it.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Made my rings for the kicks with a Jasper, but didn't have a 3/4 rabbit bit to flush them. Ended up doing it free hand with a straight bit... not quite the best results. Lol

Decided to tape up the platinums, and drop um in. Filled the gaps with some rage gold. 
















Couple spots I need to hit again, the tape must have rolled up and filled the gap.
Just put the ring down for reference... getting closer!








I'll be using some backstrap for mounting. Get it close and solid, but still have the ability to tweak the angle. I'm going for as close to on axis as I can get, without being too intrusive.


----------



## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

i like the cabling job good work


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

abdulwq said:


> i like the cabling job good work


Thank you sir. Lol
I assume your referring to the previous setup, the current one is tight and compact... but far from show worthy.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Got the drivers side kick baffle angled and secured. Set the driver in for final check on clearance.
























Gave it a nice dusting of 3m 77, and stretched some pretty pink spandex over the form. 
















Used a little CA glue to secure the material to the edges of the form. 

Then a coat of resin...


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Trimmed it up and the driver still fits, that's a good sign. Lol

However, I'm struggling glassing it from the inside. Not much room to maneuver. Looks like I cut out the back, layer it up, and replace the plug.

Next will be integrating it with the face of the stock kick...









Three layers of mat from the inside, then a layer of spectrum with bb's mashed into it. 








Got the passenger side baffle aimed and mounted.








Pretty pink spandex again. 








And a coat of resin...


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

This is what I'm looking at, as far as placement. Pics were taken from the back seat...obviously. lol
















After looking at the passenger kick, I might have to modify it... but im not sure yet. I'm worried that when I stretched the kick, I failed to account for how it might interact with the door card.
Time will tell...


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well, to update on the passenger door/ kick interface, doesn't appear to be an issue. Put the card on, and nothing rubbed.. bonus!

And true to form, I'm all over the place. Lol with the kicks well under way, I started looking into my pillars.
I've come to the conclusion I just can't pull off what I wanted to do.. and make it look right.
So I'm going to attempt dash pods, and then modify the pillars to mate up with them. Life's an experiment, just gotta run with it! 
Some crude mock ups, and pics I was looking at to get a feel for my first idea.
























And this is my " attempt" at the dash pod (passenger side).
















Stretched some spandex to get an idea of the form I'm looking at.
















It was more difficult stretching this form than I anticipated. I'll have to address a couple wrinkles, but I did my best to locate them where not easily scene, and more than likely, would be covered with the pillar integration.

Fingers crossed...


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

J, looks good brother!!


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

I'm still trying to figure out where the heck he found so much hot pink spandex!!

I was really hoping to see some crazy pillars  but this looks very nice as well!


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> J, looks good brother!!


Thanks man! How you coming with yours?







Stoph said:


> I'm still trying to figure out where the heck he found so much hot pink spandex!!
> 
> I was really hoping to see some crazy pillars  but this looks very nice as well!


Lol bulk off eBay... it was cheap, hence the hot pink. But it stretches like a mother! 
Yeah, I wanted some funky pillars but just couldn't wrap my head around it. This will tie into the pillar, so technically... 
Kinda going into this version guns a blazing. Hope I can get this version outta my head, and realized.

This is an idea how its oriented on the dash. That hot pink reflects terribly!


----------



## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

J, mine is as done as its going to be, for quite a while. Im over all pretty happy with it. Still need to find time to remove the pillar's and smooth and recover them. But other then that, not too bad. Havnt done much tuning on it either. But sounds pretty decent.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

rodneypierce said:


> J, mine is as done as its going to be, for quite a while. Im over all pretty happy with it. Still need to find time to remove the pillar's and smooth and recover them. But other then that, not too bad. Havnt done much tuning on it either. But sounds pretty decent.


Nice! So, you'll be ready for our lil fall gtg. 
I'm busting my a$$ trying to pull all this together, and tuned before then. Really looking forward to it.... as soon as we figure out WHEN it is. Lol


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Driver side pod:
This one is a little more difficult, beings I want to be as close to on axis as I can. Easy to make, tough to get looking right anyway. Lol








Layout on the base mold.








Skipped a few steps, blah...blah.. ended up with this.
























Driver side from outside the truck.








Passenger side from outside.

I'm pretty happy with the forms, but going to study them a bit before I resin them... just to be safe.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I know its tough to tell from pics, but trying to show front stage placement here. 
Both pictures were taken at the drivers head rest center. The glare off the spandex is terrible!
















And this pic is pretty bad... trying to squeeze all this in one shot.
When I get everything buttoned up and trimmed, I'll try a better pic. Just wanted those interested to kinda have an idea...


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

F it... I looked at um long enough, time to make it permanent. 








My glass assembly line. Got the pods coated, and glassed the backs back onto the kicks. 
Ran into a problem with the material lifting on the pods once I applied resin. Not sure if I had to much tension in the stretch, or what... but it was irritating!

*Rant disclaimer*
To anybody that works outside, or uses their driveway as their shop... nothing worse than wind!!!
Snow or rain.. you know ya can't do it outside. But wind... it looks nice out, it warm, but then you get constant 20-30 MPH winds mixed in and ya can't do ****! 
Well ya can, but its a royal pita. 
Irritating! Sorry. 
Just more beautiful days get ruined by wind here...
*end rant *


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

I enjoyed the wind yesterday quite a bit  Especially because I was sanding and grinding away fiberglass in the driveway and it just magically disappeared!!


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> I enjoyed the wind yesterday quite a bit  Especially because I was sanding and grinding away fiberglass in the driveway and it just magically disappeared!!


Lol now your just being contrary. How's it coming?


----------



## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> Lol now your just being contrary. How's it coming?


Good good, box is together now, just need to add some glass to the sides etc then it will be all done.

But seriously wind yesterday was better then any dust collection system I have ever used lol


----------



## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

jcollin-
you are one ambitious worker- i admire all of the effort you put into your vehicle. 
i've just started to read the build logs on this site and stumbled on yours. 
it seems that having an extended cab truck is a big challenge for packaging multiple amps and subs compared to a sedan, hatchback or suv. it looks like you have met the challenge quite well though- keep up the good work. 

i noticed you started to look at tuning with the true RTA but must have put that work aside while you focused on hardware. 

i'm in the process of setting up to do that myself and am curious if you have had any success with it? thanks and take care.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

avanti1960 said:


> jcollin-
> you are one ambitious worker- i admire all of the effort you put into your vehicle.
> i've just started to read the build logs on this site and stumbled on yours.
> it seems that having an extended cab truck is a big challenge for packaging multiple amps and subs compared to a sedan, hatchback or suv. it looks like you have met the challenge quite well though- keep up the good work.
> ...


Good morning sir, thanks for the kind words!
My truck is a crew cab, so its not near as difficult as a regular/extended cab. But if sure does have design limitation, with all equipment in the cab with you (short of a blow through substage).

I had two main reasons in changing it up. I have four children, and my amps were constantly getting kicked... they needed relocated badly. 
The second was I purchased the set of platinums and wanted to implement them....one thing led to another, and I embarked on a complete system overhaul.

As far as the rta, I'm not going to be much help. I am very much a beginner with the system. I purchased it knowing in the future, it would be a valuable tool for me. But as you mentioned... I'm focused on the build at the moment. Lol


----------



## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> As far as the rta, I'm not going to be much help. I am very much a beginner with the system. I purchased it knowing in the future, it would be a valuable tool for me. But as you mentioned... I'm focused on the build at the moment. Lol


no problem, i think i'll know how to use it i just was curious if using it helped you to improve your sound. \

i've got the dex p99 and am always "tweaking" the autotune. there are some definite hot spots in certain frequencies and am hoping the RTA tells me exactly where they are. 
i have a thread going in another forum and will post up with the results of using the RTA software. peace and take care.


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Tried to get a little creative with the dash pod covering. Lol pretty pleased with it.








Prs and cal28 checking out the new enclosure.








Ensolite PS ccf








Grill cloth over the top.
































Couple shots in the truck.
















Its not perfect, I had to do some creative seams in two places. But for a daily driver/ no show truck, I'm pretty stoked. 

Now, if I can just do it again. Lol


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Passenger side:
























All covered up.

























Couple shots in the truck.


----------



## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

The creative bit on those pods is certainly not something you much of any more!!
Good work here!! Lots of thought put into everything!

Can you coment on how the interior treatments (surface covering) went for you or you don't have sound yet?


----------



## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

sydmonster said:


> The creative bit on those pods is certainly not something you much of any more!!
> Good work here!! Lots of thought put into everything!
> 
> Can you coment on how the interior treatments (surface covering) went for you or you don't have sound yet?


Thank you very much!
I know its not much, and for the most part not scene, but I like trying to incorporate the little touches. 

I haven't had sound past aiming/ placement... hoping just a couple days out! So, I can't comment on the treatments yet. I just tried to think of the direct reflection areas, and work on them. Possibly more to come, once I get some listening time in.

I'll be sure and comment on the results, and process.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Those pods look really good. I bet very little t/a will be required to get the sound right.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Notloudenuf said:


> Those pods look really good. I bet very little t/a will be required to get the sound right.


Thanks man 
Spent some time looking at PB's thread on corner/horn loading the dash and windshield. I liked my mids in the pillars from the last version, but wanted them farther forward, and closer to the width limit of the vehicle. 
This also put them almost perfectly on a vertical plane with the kicks. 
Should be interesting. 

Now I'll just have to see what the 4-way front stage is going to be like...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Small update...

I have sound! Oh, and what a sound!
I know I'm quick to say its amazing... I'm aware of psychoacoustics, and new equipment, blah blah... lol

That's part of it, but damn its smooth. Just playing with the dash and kicks. Some clearance issues with the zr's/door card I need to address, before I unleash them. 

But from 100hz and up, I have a very very solid platform to build from. Obviously, I have much tweaking and tuning ahead... and I'm SOOO looking forward to it. 

Off to trim my door card and get the zr's added to the mix!


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Subscribed.
I almost didn't when I saw Fric was on here.
I have no idea how I missed this thread.
Dittos on what's already been said.
Sorry to be late for the party. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Subscribed.
> I almost didn't when I saw Fric was on here.
> I have no idea how I missed this thread.
> Dittos on what's already been said.
> ...


Lol thanks Bret! No worries on being fashionably late... this is one of those parties that never really ends. 

Okay, zr's up and running. Um, I now see why everyone says you need heavily treated doors! These lil bastards will rip your door off, if given the opportunity!

I also fully believe you can EASILY go subless with them... as long as you don't require super high output sub 50hz. 

Having some tactile transfer to my leg from the door card. Good problem to have, but I need to address it. 

The HD's are really impressing me. All my gains are at minimum, and I have all the volume ill ever need. In fact, I don't even want to hear full volume... and that says alot, cuz I enjoy loud music. 

They only get mildly warm, so far anyway. I have no system noise to speak of, and this has been an issue for me.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

it takes some technique to put the fiberglass on with out it lifting  thats all. its all in the prep and technique in fiberglassing XD


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> it takes some technique to put the fiberglass on with out it lifting  thats all. its all in the prep and technique in fiberglassing XD


What ya referring to evil?  lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

jcollin76 said:


> What ya referring to evil?  lol


you complained in your one post of the resin lifting.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> you complained in your one post of the resin lifting.


Ah, no I meant the spandex was lifting off the base edge, when I was resining it. 
No worries man. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I took a short video with my phone. No tune other than auto eq/ ta. 
I still need to finish several things before I dive into any sort of tuning... but I'm pleased with the starting point.

My first video, so go easy on me. 

*Song is Night prowler by AC/DC, off the Highway to hell album*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtxukCzelxU&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

very cool video j- ! I can tell the clarity of your system even playing the video from your phone on my laptop speakers. 
i may have to switch the display on my deck to show the VU meters- looks cool. now before you buy any more hardware do yourself a favor and tune it! in just a 3 sessions back and forth with the RTA I have literally transformed my sound quality! See the thread here if interested- 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ussion/130036-not-ear-alone-time-measure.html 

rock on!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

avanti1960 said:


> very cool video j- ! I can tell the clarity of your system even playing the video from your phone on my laptop speakers.
> i may have to switch the display on my deck to show the VU meters- looks cool. now before you buy any more hardware do yourself a favor and tune it! in just a 3 sessions back and forth with the RTA I have literally transformed my sound quality! See the thread here if interested-
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ussion/130036-not-ear-alone-time-measure.html
> ...


Thanks man! 

Yeah, I've been following your threads... good reads! It'll get some good attention from me in the near future.
Lol my hardware buying days are finished... for now.  but I do need to finish the kicks, doors, and get the console back in. They all will have an impact on the system response... no good tuning when the environment isn't how it'll be in the end.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Subscribed.
> I almost didn't when I saw Fric was on here.
> I have no idea how I missed this thread.
> Dittos on what's already been said.
> ...


Haters....


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Haters....


Don't Sweat it fric... we dont all have to like each other. But I meant what I said... I appreciate ya checking in on my build.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> Don't Sweat it fric... we dont all have to like each other. But I meant what I said... I appreciate ya checking in on my build.


Aw man....
Me and super mod Bret go back! There's no ill feelings between us. He just misses me, that's all.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Aw man....
> Me and super mod Bret go back! There's no ill feelings between us. He just misses me, that's all.


True. leased:

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

With everything set on the amps, it was time for the moment of truth... will the console fit over everything.

I had fit it over the amp rack several times on my bench, but as we all know, stuff can sometimes change getting it in the vehicle. 
















For access to the system fusing, I only need to remove the console cubby.
















Now that I know no major modifications are needed to the console to fit, I'll start working on access panels to the amps, some fans, and acoustic treatments to the sides.


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

Man that's just f-ing amazin! I bet it sounds better though.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

chaser9478 said:


> Man that's just f-ing amazin! I bet it sounds better though.


Lol thanks man. Yeah, as with any of these videos, you can get a sense of clarity and detail... but that's about it. They really don't compare to the real experience. 
Once I get everything finished up, I'll try and do a walk through video. 
I'm super excited to start building the enclosure for the 4 Diyma's.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

jcollin76 said:


> Lol thanks man. Yeah, as with any of these videos, you can get a sense of clarity and detail... but that's about it. They really don't compare to the real experience.
> Once I get everything finished up, I'll try and do a walk through video.
> I'm super excited to start building the enclosure for the 4 Diyma's.


so you are doing 4 R12's? ..  Fun fun!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Yeah a buddy a mine said I should... any ideas who? Lol

Honestly, after some time with the front stage, I don't need a ported alignment. After you crunched those numbers, I have the perfect air space for them sealed. More cone area, less excursion, less distortion, sounds like a win to me!


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

I don't know who you are talking about ... 

Well that's good to hear! I'm excited to hear 4 of them haha, 1 of them was a treat to listen to as well.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> I don't know who you are talking about ...
> 
> Well that's good to hear! I'm excited to hear 4 of them haha, 1 of them was a treat to listen to as well.


Yeah I'm looking forward to hearing it as well.... Mr. Enabler.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Everyone needs an enabler!! I blame Jon personally, he's a damn good enabler.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Everyone needs an enabler!! I blame Jon personally, he's a damn good enabler.


Very true!
Now go post some progress on that box of yours!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Passenger kick panel wrapped.

































Pretty good match on the vinyl from yourautotrim.com.http://www.yourautotrim.com/longitude.html

GM match light cashmere. Wish I would've made a smoother transition by the door. But its only visible with the door open.
I'll live with it for now.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Drivers side:

























Some better pics of the front stage:


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## Alejandro (Dec 2, 2010)

Beautiful install! Looks great, but... aren't you concerned about how visible your goodies are? It'd be a shame for a passerby to get greedy on what he sees. Anyways, not to be pessimistic- but kudos on your build! As well, why four 12's? My dad had 2 10" Treo SSI's (chose these bc of high power rating and fairly shallow mount with massive excursion/sound quality) @750 wrms a piece and that thing THUMPED. He had them in a prefab ProBox, which with minimal modification, fit snugly under the seat of his 97 Silverado. I see that space may be a concern and I think there are many other ways to go about massive bass? Just my $0.02, not to criticize your method.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Alejandro said:


> Beautiful install! Looks great, but... aren't you concerned about how visible your goodies are? It'd be a shame for a passerby to get greedy on what he sees. Anyways, not to be pessimistic- but kudos on your build! As well, why four 12's? My dad had 2 10" Treo SSI's (chose these bc of high power rating and fairly shallow mount with massive excursion/sound quality) @750 wrms a piece and that thing THUMPED. He had them in a prefab ProBox, which with minimal modification, fit snugly under the seat of his 97 Silverado. I see that space may be a concern and I think there are many other ways to go about massive bass? Just my $0.02, not to criticize your method.


Thank you sir. 

As far as the points you bring up, I completely understand where your coming from. Fortunately, I have a few things working in my favor. 
I live in a very rural area, the truck is usually at my home, or government secured work place ( I'm security ).

Currently, you can't see anything on a casual glance, aside from the tweets. That will be addressed when I modify the pillars. 
In short, they have to be really looking to see the equipment... and if they really want it, not much you can do.

Not going to lie... some "wow" factor in running 4 R12's. Lol but its mainly to cut down on excursion to get the same output. I ABSOLUTELY love these subs, they just need lil more output for my liking. Two were wonderful, but I kept wanting more. 
I could've gone ported with the pair, but I really fell in love with the idea of 4, and the effortless buttery output ill get. 

Also, with the rear seat being raised 3", I have more room than one might think. With moving all my amps under the console, its all available for enclosure. Before, I had to accommodate space for amps and enclosure.


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## clipse4u2c (Nov 24, 2010)

your build is amazing! Love the idea of using the center console to locate your amps. I've thought about doing that from watching your build! My build will be underway soon.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

clipse4u2c said:


> your build is amazing! Love the idea of using the center console to locate your amps. I've thought about doing that from watching your build! My build will be underway soon.


Hey thanks man! 
Looking forward to seeing your build, and thanks for following mine.

Shoot me a pm if you have any questions... I'm no expert, but getting pretty good at taking this truck apart. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Another little video for you guys. 

Just humor me... I'm excited about how the front stage is coming together. This is my first venture into real tuning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28LAMO-yYY8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I try to show the eq display to illustrate some of the cuts made. I toggled between my rough tune, and the auto, and easily prefer mine. 
As noted in another thread, the mid section is very over emphasized in the pioneer curve.

Also used 1/3 octave pink noise to better focus the center image... still needs refinement across the board, but its sounding very nice.

Its starting to reach levels of quality I'm not used to. It has a feel of being delicate, and powerful at the same time. I can hear the subtle nuances in the recording, and it handles all the peaks without strain. More to come ...

Wow! This is fun. 

*song is Overlord (unplugged) by Black label society*


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Decided to close up those big holes in the door card. I cheated and used the grill assembly from the zr's.
































Some more pretty pink Spandex and resin.








Back filled the form with mat, resin, and body filler... Nasty mess, but it works. Lol

Coat of rage on the outside and sanded down. I have a few spots to still address, but shaping up pretty good.
Don't mind the melting kickpanel, Super77 wasn't so super. I got some real adhesive now, so they'll get recovered here shortly.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

very nicely done. Using the ZR's bits is not cheating, thats being frugal and smart!


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Looking good man!


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Rage?

I had the same problem with the vinyl on my door pods. I used super 77 as well.

Does your interior have a textured finish? How do you plan to blend all that filler with the door panel?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Fricasseekid said:


> Rage?


Rage Gold body filler. Neat stuff. I like it alot, Dynatron Delite works good too...Bing recommended USC Kromate light, says it pinholes less than Rage.

So, Jcollin...you have a 4 way front stage?

Jay


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

sydmonster said:


> very nicely done. Using the ZR's bits is not cheating, thats being frugal and smart!



lol thank you, kinda what I was thinking.








Stoph said:


> Looking good man!


Thanks bud. 








Fricasseekid said:


> Rage?
> 
> I had the same problem with the vinyl on my door pods. I used super 77 as well.
> 
> Does your interior have a textured finish? How do you plan to blend all that filler with the door panel?


yup, Rage gold, sorry I should have been more specific. Lol

super77 is nice for grillcloth and light stuff, but yeah no good for anything with weight or tension on it.

As far as the texture, I'm going to be covering them in suede, so matching it won't be an issue. 









JayinMI said:


> Rage Gold body filler. Neat stuff. I like it alot, Dynatron Delite works good too...Bing recommended USC Kromate light, says it pinholes less than Rage.
> 
> So, Jcollin...you have a 4 way front stage?
> 
> Jay


I've read that too, I'll have to give them a try. I was pretty impressed with rage... coming from Walmart branded stuff, its damn nice.

Yeah, I'm give a 4-way a try. Lol
I have it setup just like a similar 3-way, only the Zr is crossed a little lower, and the Prs and cal28 share the "tweeter" responsibilities. Kinda like have a large format tweet I guess. 

Its an experiment ....sounds pretty good so far. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Dug out my babies for the upcoming box build... and I missed them. Lol

I can't wait to hear the butter these four will make!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

True to form, I'm jumping allover the place again.

Got my order of sensuede in. Started with a simple panel to get the feel for the material.
I originally wanted to use Ensolite under the suede, but the more I thought about it, I didn't want to rely on the peel and stick adhesive... not for a whole panel. 








Panel is located below the steering column. Cleaned up and ready to go.








I'm using something with a little more strength this time around. Dap high temp multi purpose CA. Brushed on half the panel.








And the other half...
















Pulling edges.








Test fit in the truck, wanted to see how the edges lined up with the added material. I'll pull it back out to do the section where the ebrake lever is.


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## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> True to form, I'm jumping allover the place again.
> 
> Got my order of sensuede in. Started with a simple panel to get the feel for the material.
> I originally wanted to use Ensolite under the suede, but the more I thought about it, I didn't want to rely on the peel and stick adhesive... not for a whole panel.


How does the cost of the Sensuede match up with other suede like materials?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

DRTHJTA said:


> How does the cost of the Sensuede match up with other suede like materials?


It was like $19.95 a yard where I got it. When I was researching it, was just as expensive, or more than ultra suede. So I was happy with the price. Lol other places had it at like $60 - $70 a yard! 

http://www.newtoto.com/hipeensu.html?gclid=CPyB4IuxzLACFQZtKgodWTfXVg
Shipping was fast too. Ordered Monday, and got it this morning. Not bad!


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## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

Just ordered a couple swatches... had to check it out for myself...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

DRTHJTA said:


> Just ordered a couple swatches... had to check it out for myself...


Imo, at that price, definitely worth a look.


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## Stoph (Jan 14, 2009)

Same here  Ordered a few swatches of suede and the vinyl! thanks Jim


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Stoph said:


> Same here  Ordered a few swatches of suede and the vinyl! thanks Jim


No problem man, hope you find something that works for you!

On a side note, the dark suede I ordered is metrosuede. I guess its from the same company as sensuede, just a different line. But by all accounts, it shares the same properties. Just fyi...


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Well I attempted to cover my door skin with the sensuede... big fail on my part. The material has limited stretch, but I believe its just my lack of skill.

No pics, I got pissed and ripped it off to start over.

Does anyone know, and care to explain, how to make visually appealing seams? I don't have a sewing machine, and that would be my first choice, but...

I will do my best to keep them hidden on the outside edges, but still don't want them looking like ass. 

Any help offered would be to greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

I went through this when covering my door pods. 

I would recommend having an upholstery guy sew seams in them. 

I was able to make some pretty good seams in my vinyl by folding it and cutting it with a razor knife. But my adhesive gave out and that was the first place to peel. So it really just depends on how much you trust that glue.


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## A-Ron (Feb 12, 2010)

What do you think about wrapping the kicks with that Sensuede? Is it thinner than vinyl and does it stretch?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

A-Ron said:


> What do you think about wrapping the kicks with that Sensuede? Is it thinner than vinyl and does it stretch?


Hey man, posted in your other thread.

Honestly, you'll have better luck with the vinyl. The sensuede just doesn't have enough stretch for complex curves.

Flat, or minor curves its doable. In trying to do my door panel, I ran into some serious limitations ... or lack of skill on my part. Lol


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> I went through this when covering my door pods.
> 
> I would recommend having an upholstery guy sew seams in them.
> 
> I was able to make some pretty good seams in my vinyl by folding it and cutting it with a razor knife. But my adhesive gave out and that was the first place to peel. So it really just depends on how much you trust that glue.


Thanks fric, kinda where I'm at. My cousin (much older, and distant ) is a retired upholsterer. Think I may take him the panel, and pick his brain. Lil


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

jcollin76 said:


>


So, did you aim the left side speakers at your left ear, and your right side speakers at your right ears (more or less)? How is that working out for you?

Jay


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> So, did you aim the left side speakers at your left ear, and your right side speakers at your right ears (more or less)? How is that working out for you?
> 
> Jay


I didn't aim so much, as I just tried to be as on axis to me as possible. I'm only looking for single seat. They aren't totally on axis... but they are close. I tried to keep some aesthetics in mind. It does kinda bother me that the pods are different. 

Really, once I got the levels adjusted right, it sounds really nice. I have a great center image and placement. My width could be better, but its not terrible. The sweet spot is kinda small. If I move much, I can really hear it change.

I need to address some reflections off the windshield, but its not near as bad as I thought it would be. Lol

Overall, I'm pretty pleased with it! So, now I need to change it...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I'm trying to decide...I think I'd rather have the symmetry...my OCD would drive me nuts. LOL

Besides, if I ever demo my system to someone, I still like to be in the driver's seat.

Jay


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> I'm trying to decide...I think I'd rather have the symmetry...my OCD would drive me nuts. LOL
> 
> Besides, if I ever demo my system to someone, I still like to be in the driver's seat.
> 
> Jay


Lol know what ya mean. I think it sounds good in my seat... when I demo I move to the passenger seat... not near as nice. 

Ill probably change it around several times anyway. I'd like to have a lil more of a two seater, but not at the expense of my listening pleasure! 

One of the few times I can be "all about me"!


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## A-Ron (Feb 12, 2010)

What do you think of the JL ZR's? I've been considering replacing my HAT L6's in my doors for the JL's but didn't think I could get them to fit..

Where did you get the dash trim kit? Been looking for one of those to but its hard to tell quality on the internet..

Last question, what was the song you had playing on your youtube build log video?

Awesome build! Gives me 100% more motivation to do some creative stuff to my 09 Sierra..


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

A-Ron said:


> What do you think of the JL ZR's? I've been considering replacing my HAT L6's in my doors for the JL's but didn't think I could get them to fit..
> 
> Where did you get the dash trim kit? Been looking for one of those to but its hard to tell quality on the internet..
> 
> ...


Thank you for the kind words!

I'm at work at the moment, when I get some free time, I'll answer ya in more depth.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

A-Ron said:


> What do you think of the JL ZR's? I've been considering replacing my HAT L6's in my doors for the JL's but didn't think I could get them to fit..
> 
> They will fit, but be prepared for serious modification. Lol
> I have 1 1/2" spacers, but could probably get by with 3/4". They were left over from the SLS. The larger baffle required more mods to the door card. I had to build it out, and open it up more... in hopes of not trapping waves behind the card. With the smaller baffle you could get by with just opening it up.
> ...


Thanks again man. 

About the zr's, I got to rambling about making them fit, but didn't answer your question. Lol

For a dedicated midbass, they are outstanding! Particularly if you want them to pound on the lower side, say 50-63hz. They won't be as articulate as a HAT driver on the topside, or extend as high. So you'll want a mid that can mate up well with them under 1k somewhere.

They are very good matched up with more "transparent" subs, giving them more upfront attack... if that makes sense. 
A lot of people complain of subs being slow, or not having kick to them. That is a midbass and/or tuning problem not subs. These zr's have no problem with kick! Lol

Had mine hp at 50hz for awhile, they sounded great, but made the door just sing with vibration. I now have them at 63hz, and its much more manageable. Still get the nice kick and up front bass I want, with a lot less rattles.


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