# 2022 Toyota Prius. Doitor´s gone hybrid a.k.a. "Project Uber SQ".



## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

After a long pause, its time to get back into the SQ game, so I decided to start a new build.
The main goal is to build a stealth system in my daily driver.

The car: 2022 Toyota Prius aka. Project Uber SQ.

Source: Ill use two. First, the OEM head unit connected via high level into the DSP. Second, iPhone/Ipod touch into a Topping D10 DAC via coaxial digital into the DSP.

Speakers: IIAF Magnifica LE Carbon Fiber/Copper 3 way + 12" IIAF BL5 sub

Amps: Two IIAF D410 4 channel amplifiers. One for each side. Channel 1, 100 watts for the tweeter. Channel 2, 100 watts for the midrange. Channels 3 and 4 bridged to get 275 watts on the midbass. D135 Mono amplifier for the subwoofer (500 watts).

Processor: MINIDSP C-DSP 8X12 DL

Installer: Me.

Picked the car up from the dealer on June 22, 2022.




























Take a look at the dash. Its a pretty nice platform to start.










J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

What do you do the first day you get a new car?
Take it apart, of course. LOL.
The top of the dash comes out in under 10 minutes, 5 if you hold my beer.



























































































J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

The doors also come apart pretty easy.










Added a bit of deadener and put it back together.










Moved onto the hatch area.










Added some deadener.










Then the headliner suddenly came off.




























J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Also did a bit of measuring.
First, had to get the mic out and measure the OEM system.



















Then used the osciloscope to measure clipping on the front and rear speakers.
With a 1 khz 0 dB tone, the fronts clip at 51/62 and the rears 53/62.
With a 1 khz -5 dB tone, the fronts clip at 56/62 and the rears dont clip. 
With a 1 khz -10 dB tone, the fronts and rears dont clip.
With a 50 hz 0 dB tone, the fronts clip at 54/62 and the rears 61/62.
With a 50 hz -5 dB tone, the fronts and rears dont clip.. 
With a 50 hz -10 dB tone, the fronts and rears dont clip.










J.


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## Vx220 (Nov 30, 2015)

Blimey...


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

Very interesting , I didn't know you test each driver for clipping and thought you test your amps and headunit and be done. The build is looking very pro , keep up the good work. I'll checking the entire build progress !!


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

ecobass said:


> Very interesting , I didn't know you test each driver for clipping and thought you test your amps and headunit and be done. The build is looking very pro , keep up the good work. I'll checking the entire build progress !!


With the last picture that shows the oscilloscope, I believe that he actually is testing the _electrical signal_ from each amplified channel of the OEM system, not the acoustic "clipping point" (distortion) of each speaker.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

ecobass said:


> Very interesting , I didn't know you test each driver for clipping and thought you test your amps and headunit and be done. The build is looking very pro , keep up the good work. I'll checking the entire build progress !!


bbfoto is right.
Since Im using the OEM hu as one of my inputs into the DSP, I wanted to know the clipping volume to be able to adjust gains down the rest of the gear with a clean signal.
The amps are here, just waiting on the speakers and this should move pretty fast.






















J.


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

Hahaha facepalm to my self , I totally missed that picture and just went by his verbal description of testing front and rear speakers . I now see your testing for maximum UN-distorted output signal from the head unit , makes sense now. 

i"ve never seen or heard of Italia hi-fi car audio products but those amps look business , I own some steg audio components and twister amps made in Italy and they perform beautiful , It looks like you're going all out for sound quality


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

doitor said:


> bbfoto is right.
> Since Im using the OEM hu as one of my inputs into the DSP, I wanted to know the clipping volume to be able to adjust gains down the rest of the gear with a clean signal.
> The amps are here, just waiting on the speakers and this should move pretty fast.
> J.


Unfortunately, my experience with the SQ of all of the Toyota OEM head units or amplified systems I've done aftermarket installs in has been far from stellar. So, if possible, try to have the option to use a secondary "clean & pure" SQ source into your DSP using another input/preset, such as a portable DAP, etc.

EDIT: DOH! You already covered that in your OP.  I should have known better from this being another well thought out and high end Jorge/doitor install! 😊 :bowdown:


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Welcome back as I always enjoy your work. I took a break from car audio as well and now I'm back down the rabbit hole!


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

bbfoto said:


> I should have known better from this being another well thought out and high end Jorge/doitor install! 😊 :bowdown:


Yeah, you should. LOL.



AudioBob said:


> Welcome back as I always enjoy your work. I took a break from car audio as well and now I'm back down the rabbit hole!


Thanks.
Welcome back to the madness.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Saturday morning building RCA's.
Used Canare StarQuad L4E6S cable with Rean NYS352G RCA plugs, tech flex, heat shrink.










J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Speakers are here. 

































































J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Sub is also here.





































Also got some prototypes of the soon to be released BL5 tweeters to test.























































J


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

Looks like plenty of room on the dash and pillars to play.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

UNBROKEN said:


> Looks like plenty of room on the dash and pillars to play.


Yes, could do several configurations but will start with the easy one.
Tweeters in the a pillars, midrange drivers in the dash and mid bass in the kicks.
Power and speaker wire is also here, so its going to be a pretty busy weekend.














































J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Weekend progress.
First grabbed the OEM high level signal from the dash speaker harness.

















Solder.








Individual heatshrink.








Paired heatshrink.

















Used electrical tape like the OEM harness.



















J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Also started with the tweeters.









Made some mounting rings with acrylic and mdf.













































J.


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## crxsir121 (Oct 18, 2006)

doitor said:


> Saturday morning building RCA's.
> Used Canare StarQuad L4E6S cable with Rean NYS352G RCA plugs, tech flex, heat shrink.
> 
> View attachment 345185
> ...



Is the Canare cables internally 4 wires? Did you twist each wire pair together then solder to the Rean RCA connectors?


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

crxsir121 said:


> Is the Canare cables internally 4 wires? Did you twist each wire pair together then solder to the Rean RCA connectors?


Yes, the Canare cable has 4 wires.
They have several models. Im using the L4E6S that has four 24 awg wires that are twisted and shielded for the rca´s.
I soldered a pair (both of the blue wires) to the positive and both of the white wires to the negative.
That also allowes me to make the Y-cables for bridging the midbass and subs pretty easy.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Added some fiberglass bodyfiller.



















Sanded.








Added some regular body filler.









And sanded some more.








Used 80 and 240.
Need to get some 320 and keep sanding.

J.


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## Dominus (4 mo ago)

Very nice to see, i am embarking on my own project with a 2012 prius v which is very similar except for the size of the roof and the rear hatch/trunk area, i have already swapped out the stock speakers and headunit, installing a kenwood excelon ddx9907xr, jl audio component speakers and a 45w rms kenwood amp powering the speakers i had on my shelf
Next up is sound damping with primarily resonix, installing a sub in a custom fabricated box, installing a dsp, and upgrading the speakers with a 3way system installed in the dash, door, and A pillar which will be powered off a better amp, adding in more battery capacity to run the whole mess. Which once i finish getting my damping materials i need to start my own build log
But i will be interested to see how yours turns out, these are nice cars to work on, cheap to operate, and they last for a while


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Weekend progress.
Sanding, sanding and more sanding.









Ran all the speaker wiring.
Back frame rail.


















Front frame rail.



























Terminating the wire at the dash.




































J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Not a lot of progress this weekend.
Installed the USB extension in the center console.
The idea behind that is to keep the IPod in there. The right one goes into the Topping D10S, the left one is just 12v, so I hook up the Apple CCK3 into both and the Ipod into the CCK3.

















Also added the "I dont trust you with my system switch", which cuts the remote wire.



























J.


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## Sounds_Insane (8 mo ago)

I put my "I don't trust you with my system" switches in the extra spots in the dash button row. I have a switch to the remotes for the DSP and one for each amp. I like your stealth placement better though. I've used keyed switches in the past.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Sounds_Insane said:


> I put my "I don't trust you with my system" switches in the extra spots in the dash button row. I have a switch to the remotes for the DSP and one for each amp. I like your stealth placement better though. I've used keyed switches in the past.


Those buttons look pretty sweet, but I needed something a bit more secure.

J.


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

I love the remote cut switch…will be stealing that idea for sure.


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## Sounds_Insane (8 mo ago)

doitor said:


> Those buttons look pretty sweet, but I needed something a bit more secure.
> J.


Mine are more for turning parts of the system off if I need to. 
I don't take my cars anywhere for service, I've had stuff stolen out of 2 of them in the past and the dealers do not care, read the fine print when you have work done.
We dropped off a BMW at a dealership, put the keys in the night drop box, in the morning we get a call wondering if we dropped the car off with the radio missing. Someone had destroyed the dash to remove an aftermarket radio, funny thing is, they used the key to open the door because there was no forced entry, so it had to be an inside job. Dealership refused to cover the damage, we had to claim it on our insurance.
Another time I had a car in for paint at a Ford dealer, a bunch of stuff was stolen out of my car, the manager showed me where I signed the work order and it says they are not liable for lost or stolen items.
So yeah, no one works on my cars, if I can't fix the problem myself I sell the car. The 2 year free maintenance you get with some new cars, I never use. Car leaves the dealer they never see me again, even for recalls.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

UNBROKEN said:


> I love the remote cut switch…will be stealing that idea for sure.


A lot of us old SPL guys do this. Don't always want 148DB's or some idiot thinking they want more!


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Sounds_Insane said:


> Mine are more for turning parts of the system off if I need to.
> I don't take my cars anywhere for service, I've had stuff stolen out of 2 of them in the past and the dealers do not care, read the fine print when you have work done.
> We dropped off a BMW at a dealership, put the keys in the night drop box, in the morning we get a call wondering if we dropped the car off with the radio missing. Someone had destroyed the dash to remove an aftermarket radio, funny thing is, they used the key to open the door because there was no forced entry, so it had to be an inside job. Dealership refused to cover the damage, we had to claim it on our insurance.
> Another time I had a car in for paint at a Ford dealer, a bunch of stuff was stolen out of my car, the manager showed me where I signed the work order and it says they are not liable for lost or stolen items.
> So yeah, no one works on my cars, if I can't fix the problem myself I sell the car. The 2 year free maintenance you get with some new cars, I never use. Car leaves the dealer they never see me again, even for recalls.


That makes total sense after what you have been through.



Theslaking said:


> A lot of us old SPL guys do this. Don't always want 148DB's or some idiot thinking they want more!


I bet you the mechanic can get it into the 150´s. 

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

First set of speakers are in. Woot, woot.
The original speakers mounted from the top. Had an idea to mount them from the bottom and make a "waveguide". Made a ring with 1/8" mdf and held it in place with wood tongue suppressors. 










Used tape to make a mold.








Fiberglass body filler.








Regular body filler.








Covered them with black felt.








Speaker mounted.








Made the baffle from 1/4" acrylic, used speaker gasket tape on both sides of the baffle and duct seal on both sides.








Added some deadener and hot glued everything that could rattle.








Covered with speaker grill cloth and into the car.









J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Weekend updates.
Front stage is done.










Amp rack wiring.
This is where my OCD shines. LOL.
Used metal/neoprene washers to not mess up the amps.








Test fitting the RCA´s.








Example of each amp power side.

















Power and ground wires.








Into distro block.
















Wiring under the rack.









J.


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## Bushwacker (Dec 23, 2017)

Looking great!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

doitor said:


> Used metal/neoprene washers to not mess up the amps.


FYI for next time - Metal roofing screws do this all in a single color. You can get small packages at any box store.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Bushwacker said:


> Looking great!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Thanks.



Theslaking said:


> FYI for next time - Metal roofing screws do this all in a single color. You can get small packages at any box store.


Thanks for the tip.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Yesterdays progress.
Finished the distro blocks mounting surface.


















Started reasembling the hatch.










Test fitting the amp rack.








It will be held in place with threaded inserts rivets into factory holes and bolts.








Side panels in.









J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Amp rack in, bolted and wired.






























And it came alive yesterday for the first time.
























J.


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## Sounds_Insane (8 mo ago)

Do you have any noise, static or hybrid motor whine? I have a 22 Corolla Hybrid, which is essentially the same hybrid system as the Prius and I had noise. I'm trying to eliminate the car as the issue. So far it appears to be my installation that is the problem.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Sounds_Insane said:


> Do you have any noise, static or hybrid motor whine? I have a 22 Corolla Hybrid, which is essentially the same hybrid system as the Prius and I had noise. I'm trying to eliminate the car as the issue. So far it appears to be my installation that is the problem.


Hi.
No noise at all.

J.


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

Aren’t you in Texas?


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

UNBROKEN said:


> Aren’t you in Texas?


I live in Mexico, just on the border with Mcallen, Texas.

J.


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

Gotcha. Are you doing the money round in Monterrey this weekend then?


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

UNBROKEN said:


> Gotcha. Are you doing the money round in Monterrey this weekend then?


Yes, Ill be there.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Yesterdays report.
Built a temporary 1.4 cubic foot sub box out of MDF.
Want to build a fiberglass box for the corner of the trunk, but my fiberglass skills need a lot of work and Im taking the car this weekend for a show.























Also ran my first Dirac tune last night and Im really liking the results.
There´s a learning curve for sure, but the quick tuning guide in this forum makes it a pretty straightforward job.

J.


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## Oekern (3 mo ago)

Wow, I enjoyed looking this thread through !
I see you use little sound deadening material - is this because there is little difference if you had covered all areas ?
Spesiffi thinking about the trunk


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Oekern said:


> Wow, I enjoyed looking this thread through !
> I see you use little sound deadening material - is this because there is little difference if you had covered all areas ?
> Spesiffi thinking about the trunk


Thanks.
The hatch area will be covered with lot more stuff (see next post), so no need to go overboard.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Yesterdays report.
Version 1.0 of Proyect Uber SQ is done.
Finished the hatch area.
First carpeted the amp rack cover.

















With the OEM carpet on top.








Amp rack with hinges.








Spare tire an tool acces with hinges. Will have the jack and tools on the sides.








Temporary sub box in.








Hatch cover on.








J.


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## RickWilson (Nov 11, 2021)

Great build so far!


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

First DIRAC tune.
Followed the "Quick tuning guide" on this forum which made the process a lot easier.
Horizontal lines are 10db scale.
This is the tweeters graph.
Left=Purple
Right=Green.
Corrected response under yellow solid line.
Used a x-over at 1 khz pre-Dirac, but this tweeters can play pretty low.
Have them playing from 3 khz and up with 24 dB LR high pass.








This is the midrange graph.
Left=Yellow
Right=Blue
This speaker could play from 100 hz up to 6 khz in my install.
Corrected response under yellow solid line.
Have them playing from 320 up to 3 khz and up with 24 dB LR on both ends.








This is the mibass graph.
Left=Yellow/Orange
Right=Blue
This speaker could play from 60 hz up to 5 khz in my install.
Corrected response under yellow solid line.
Have them playing from 80 up to 320 hz and up with 24 dB LR on both ends.








This is the subwoofer graph.
This speaker could play from 16 hz up to 100 hz in my install.
Corrected response under purple solid line.
Have them playing from 80 with 24 dB LR low pass.








Gains and delay settings.








Im pretty impressed with the results you can get with the Mini DSP C8-12 DL and Dirac.
In 20-30 minutes it left the car sounding pretty good and it still has a lot of potential.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

RickWilson said:


> Great build so far!


Thanks.

J.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I always enjoy your build threads. Your attention to detail leaves anyone with OCD not wanting more...LOL


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

doitor said:


> First DIRAC tune.
> Followed the "Quick tuning guide" on this forum which made the process a lot easier.
> Horizontal lines are 10db scale.
> This is the tweeters graph.
> ...


I have really enjoyed the MiniDSP as well, and your screenshots of the responses you got look very similar. Very cool that you are able to get up to 3k on the dash mounted mid ranges. I struggled with that because on my mid range placement in the dash - eventually, reluctantly moved to pillars, which really opened the response I could get from them. 

Very good looking equipment! You make a top notch install look so simple and easy - great job! 

I’d love to hear this car sometime next year 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

bertholomey said:


> I have really enjoyed the MiniDSP as well, and your screenshots of the responses you got look very similar. Very cool that you are able to get up to 3k on the dash mounted mid ranges. I struggled with that because on my mid range placement in the dash - eventually, reluctantly moved to pillars, which really opened the response I could get from them.
> 
> Very good looking equipment! You make a top notch install look so simple and easy - great job!
> 
> ...


Thanks, buddy.
Listening to Erin’s and your car was what made me choose the Mini DSP (even if your tweeter where too loud the first time. lol)
Sure hope we can meet again.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Took the car this weekend to the Monterrey Money Round event. 16 of the top cars in Mexico all vs all, no rules, 4 judges (including Richard Papasin and Ruperto Aguilar).

The top 6 places where pretty close.
1. 161.5
2. 161.125
3. 160.5
4. 160.125
5. 159.625
6. 159. Me. (Just got the corrected results).

Gave close to 50 demos with great feedback.
Now its time to let the speakers break in before the next tune and keep working.

J.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

Nice job - I enjoyed your build thread.
I run dash speakers in both my cars and have a similar looking response to yours, lots of lower frequencies to cut. But I also battle with a null that appears between 1.6-2k, as predicted by the approximate 4" distance to the windshield. I usually fight this by trying to push the speaker higher and closer to the windshield (or by tilting it towards me to reduce the angle with the windhsield), in your case the speaker actually appears lower/further from the windshield and you don't really have a bad null until 3k. 
Just something I find interesting.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

Also - I don't think you mentioned it but what drew you to this speaker set ? I've never really heard of them or your amplifiers.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

preston said:


> Also - I don't think you mentioned it but what drew you to this speaker set ? I've never really heard of them or your amplifiers.


Had the chance to meet the guys behind the brand at the Lone Star Money Round event in Dallas early this year and really liked what they told me about the brand. Told them what my goals where and they told me what gear they had to offer. The gear is pretty solid. Hell I was able to play with the big boys over here with a diy garage build that I finished the day before the event. The speakers played music two days before the event and arent even fully broken in. To give you an idea, the top car has all Brax (speaker, amps, dsp), the other car has the full Audison Thesis HD, both built by pro shops and tuned by seasoned guys and still was able the be 1.25 points from the top and thats averaged from 4 judges. The car still has a lot of potential.

J.


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## UNBROKEN (Sep 25, 2009)

I’d call that a successful first outing. Congrats, man.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

UNBROKEN said:


> I’d call that a successful first outing. Congrats, man.


It sure felt like it.
Thanks.



























J.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

Congrats. Wish we could have judged again this year. Hopefully next year Leo will be able to resume this event and we will be back


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Mic10is said:


> Congrats. Wish we could have judged again this year. Hopefully next year Leo will be able to resume this event and we will be back


He just posted about that in a group.
December 2-3, 2023 will be Leo´s show.

J.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

doitor said:


> He just posted about that in a group.
> December 2-3, 2023 will be Leo´s show.
> 
> J.


Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully you can get everything squared away with your car and you can make it up for Aggieland in April or Lonestar in the fall


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Mic10is said:


> Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully you can get everything squared away with your car and you can make it up for Aggieland in April or Lonestar in the fall


If all goes as planed, I should be there for both.

J.


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## dmerritt (Jan 15, 2016)

Get to work Mic! 😁


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Got the scoresheet my email.
































J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Looking over the build thread, I missed to upload pics of two parts. Engine and kicks.
Here´s the engine bay using OEM looking wire loom, bolts and electrical tape.








The kicks where a bit more difficult mostly because of having to be in an awkward position.
After moving the wiring harness, theres enough room in there for a 6.5" driver.








Routed a couple of 3/4" rings.








Bolted and fiberglassed them in place.








Speaker in.

















Cut the OEM plastic and riveted a speaker grill.








Covered with grill cloth.








J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Santa came a bit early this year.
Been trying to get one from CSL for a couple of months with no luck and it seems they dont like to reply emails, so I ordered from Parts Express.
Will play with both the Umik-1 and Umik-2, keep one and sell the other one.









J.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

You didn't have any problem with resonance in that kick panel chamber ? I've been a little gun shy about just mounting kick speakers like that as I did it one time in a truck and it was a disaster, it vented up into the a-pillar and the whole thing would light up with vibrations. I imagine in your case that is folded and reinforced metal. Did you do much sound treatment in that cavity ?


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

preston said:


> You didn't have any problem with resonance in that kick panel chamber ? I've been a little gun shy about just mounting kick speakers like that as I did it one time in a truck and it was a disaster, it vented up into the a-pillar and the whole thing would light up with vibrations. I imagine in your case that is folded and reinforced metal. Did you do much sound treatment in that cavity ?


No resonance problems so far.
I would say this is the best sounding midbass Ive had in any of my cars. For a number of reasons, of course. Install, no resonance, no vibrations, no tactile feedback on the door, Dirac, etc.
This one is not opened into the pillar but into the frame rail.
Not a lot of treatment in the cavity, just stuffed it with polyfill.

J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

First measurements with the UMIK-2.
Measured the response of my midranges with and without a dash mat.
Showing the graph from 400 hz up to 20 kHz. 
Mids are playing 320-3200, but you can see how the dash mat also attenuates the tweeter frequencies and the tweeters isn't covered.










J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Yesterdays measurements.
Individual drivers.








Full system subwoofer level at 0, 2 and 6.








Full system Dirac On vs Off.








Just the midranges, Dirac On vs Off.








J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Well, Santa keeps on giving.
This time its a CSL calibrated UMIK-1. (Umik-2 still not available).
Comparing the miniDSP calibration flie vs the CSL one, both are pretty similar up until 4 khz when it starts to get funky.
By 20 khz theres a 7.12 db difference.
I now have 3 microphones to play with. Umik-1 that came with the DSP, CSL Umik-1, Umik-2.
Ill take some measurements with all of them and share my findings.
.








J.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

Decide to start a separate thread for the mic test.









Mic Comparison: Umik-1 vs Umik-1 CSL vs Umik-2


Don't know how this happened (lol) but I ended up with 3 calibrated measurements mics. First, the Umik-1 that came with the MiniDSP C8-12 DL DSP (original cal file)("free" because it came with the DSP or $110 if bough from miniDSP or PartsExpress), then got a Umik-2 (original cal file) ($236...




www.diymobileaudio.com





J


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