# INCREASE MID BASS! How to Sound Deaden Like a Pro



## mklett33 (Dec 7, 2009)

Hey guys! I see a lot of questions here about sound deadening and how to get the most bass out of your front speakers so I wanted to make something to help you guys out!

In order to get the most out of our front speakers we need to take some steps installing sound deadening, and do it properly. This video will show you how you can improve your mid bass by making your door into more of a cavity simulating a subwoofer enclosure. It also shows how you can use CLD tiles, Mass Loaded Vinyl, and Closed Cell Foam to properly deaden the entire door.






Check it out and let me know what you guys think!


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

I must be doing something wrong. Link isn't working for me. Phone perhaps???


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## hot9dog (Mar 23, 2013)

very straight forward and to the point, I enjoy watching all of the CAF videos. Very well done!


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Ahhh.. found a way around it. Great vid! :thumbup:


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## CarAudioChris (Dec 19, 2014)

I said it before on Reddit. Probably one of the best examples of how to do it right but man thats a lot of money going on that door lol


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## ben54b (May 30, 2014)

I always enjoy these vids and am insanely jealous of the space that car has between the door and the trim. There is no way I could fit that mlv between mine. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mklett33 (Dec 7, 2009)

gregerst22 said:


> Nice job on the video! I need to get some of those foam rings.


Did you see my other video that is more focused on these rings? I go more in detail on how they are used.

Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7WKCFHGwRY


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## mklett33 (Dec 7, 2009)

hot9dog said:


> very straight forward and to the point, I enjoy watching all of the CAF videos. Very well done!


Thanks! Glad you like it and I appreciate your support!


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

gregerst22 said:


> Thanks. Just ordered a pair. They only go up 6.5" but do to the design of my door I don't need it to go completely around.


Yeah I'm going to have to DIY some for my 8's... Wish they would just make them for 8's lol


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

Nice video! From what I know of its use, though, you have way more cld than is necessary. (Feel free to correct me on that if anyone knows differently..)


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

YukonXL04 said:


> Yeah I'm going to have to DIY some for my 8's... Wish they would just make them for 8's lol


You can just cut them and put the pieces together to make an 8" version. It's foam, its pretty flexible..  (I did that in my door...)


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## 1fishman (Dec 22, 2012)

Another great video! Your videos have been very helpful. Thanks


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## Rolow (Nov 7, 2014)

Great video. 
How did you like using the luxury liner pro on the doors? I always thought it was to heavy to hang.


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> You can just cut them and put the pieces together to make an 8" version. It's foam, its pretty flexible..  (I did that in my door...)


Hmm didn't think of that lol. I may just do that lol. Thanks! 

To the op, great video man.


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## Fetus (Apr 14, 2011)

CarAudioChris said:


> I said it before on Reddit. Probably one of the best examples of how to do it right but man thats a lot of money going on that door lol


Are there actually any decent car audio subreddits? I looked a while ago, didn't find much...


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

While applying CLD to a door has been the go-to method for increasing midbass response over the years - me being subject to doing it myself in ridiculous amounts - based on my past experience, I think your efforts are better spent on _*bracing*_ the door (in whichever fashion you deem best; personally I've used dowels). You'll notice that the really well built low-frequency enclosures don't have CLD slapped all over them. However, they are braced very well.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

ErinH said:


> While applying CLD to a door has been the go-to method for increasing midbass response over the years - me being subject to doing it myself in ridiculous amounts - based on my past experience, I think your efforts are better spent on _*bracing*_ the door (in whichever fashion you deem best; personally I've used dowels). You'll notice that the really well built low-frequency enclosures don't have CLD slapped all over them. However, they are braced very well.


Completely agreed. CLD is just not capable of stopping the kind of vibration caused by mounting a speaker to a door, even in multiple layers. Bracing is the much better option if you're willing to pursue it.


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## CarAudioChris (Dec 19, 2014)

Fetus said:


> Are there actually any decent car audio subreddits? I looked a while ago, didn't find much...


Car Audio and Video isn't horrible. I like to help answer questions so for me it works well but it may not be for everyone


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

How can you brace and still have full window up and down function? 
I've considered that but in reviewing the inner door with the window down, there's no room available for my door. I guess other vehicles are different.


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## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

Sub'd.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

You don't have to brace from the outer skin to the inner, although that is the best way. You could also for instance, bolt a couple prices of u - channel steel or aluminum to the inner skin to stiffen it up.

You in the end have to evaluate your door panel, and decide what to do. If you can brace, and are willing to make the mods to do it, I would always suggest that over layering it with a bunch of cld.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Good! 

26 hrs to shoot it , take 2-3 hrs from the total time it took to do each door.

I agree a lot of money in materials went in each door. 

For the ones wanting to have a factory pro look with easy access to door servicing


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## Carlton8000 (Feb 5, 2011)

I have never thought of bracing the door. It should in theory give superior results. Any one have any pics they would like to share of a door with added braces?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

There was a thread about "what's the biggest midbass you've crammed in a door" or something like that. Had a couple of pictures including one of the best bracing jobs I've ever seen.


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## garysummers (Oct 25, 2010)

Spent two years trying all the methods and materials suggested in this video with the addition of semi hardening modeling clay. None of it came even close to this as far as accurate mid-bass reproduction. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...llery/139236-mercedes-midbass-enclosures.html


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Adequate coverage with CLD is 25%, but that's just adequate coverage... Would 90-100% coverage have any negative results other then time and money spent, no! Does the added CLD help, yes. Just the weight alone added to a flimsy door will help about every aspect of the speakers performance, maybe it's a marginal gain, but it's a gain. Same applies with CLD on the backside if door panels too.

Bracing, proper baffles, ect will further assist... Weakest link is the door itself. Bracing, baffles, CLD, and other treatments are all techniques that aid in woofer performance. There are many roads to take to get to a destination... This video highlights Marks way.

My way starts with the largest, thickest, most sustainable baffle I can make. Void free Baltic Birch, HDPE, Aluminum... Then go from there.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

I used 28 gauge sheet metal to seal a large opening, about 14" long, flexible and light, I used CLD on the inside.

My question is, will I increase rigidity to the sheet metal by gluing 1/8" MLV to the existing sheet metal facing the door panel? Will it be worth it?


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Alrojoca said:


> I used 28 gauge sheet metal to seal a large opening, about 14" long, flexible and light, I used CLD on the inside.
> 
> My question is, will I increase rigidity to the sheet metal by gluing 1/8" MLV to the existing sheet metal facing the door panel? Will it be worth it?


You will not increase rigidity... You need to add a more rigid material then MLV or you need to add bracing, baffles, ect... Just adding 28 gauge sheet metal isn't necessarily going to help either, if you bead roll it or dimple dye it, then it would be much stronger... That or you should use a stiffer/thicker material.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

TheDavel said:


> You will not increase rigidity... You need to add a more rigid material then MLV or you need to add bracing, baffles, ect... Just adding 28 gauge sheet metal isn't necessarily going to help either, if you bead roll it or dimple dye it, then it would be much stronger... That or you should use a stiffer/thicker material.


Thanks,
I figured 28 g sheet is not stiff, only CLD on one side made it much heavier and helped with less flexing, gaps between the metal and door are sealed well, the bass is good, I can't complain, it may flex a bit, I have played with the door panel off, no noise or rattles detected. I was just wondering if I could make it better to improve the bass, I guess the 1/4" ABS will be better, I just don't know if I can screw a 1/4" material and still make the panel fit. I may go with 22-24 g aluminum sheet metal, it may be more flexible and easier to work with than using the same gauge in stain or sheet metal, I doubt, Galvanized 22-24 g sheet metal will be available at an affordable price. I only paid $10.00 for this sheet, more than enough to do 4 doors. 
Shop IMPERIAL 24-in x 36-in GV Flat Sheet at Lowes.com


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