# Fixtion Install Venture



## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Gear gathering phase is nearing completion, and I'm well on my way to sitting down and layout several install ideas. As of now I'm pending on 12M/4631G 4.5" Revelators and the repair of one (1) 40x2 Lunar amplifier. Realizing the inability to control x/o points on the sub I've came to the conclusion of either an addition x/o or modifying the onboard x/o point as per QAS configuration. Depending on how satisfy I become after "tweaking"

This will be my first 4-way active install and seems promising after careful researching and considering each driver's characteristics. Mainly high efficiency, linear output, and of course subjective reviews 

If there are to be any changes it will be in the power department, even though I'm more than satisfied with my Lunar collection  Perhaps an Audison for the HQ OWII's for signal clarity sake. Open to active tweeter amplifier suggestions. :]

Expect photo's of progress nearing the end and beginning of December. Till then, enjoy this diagram of the gear.


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## SQ4ME2 (Jul 22, 2007)

i recommend a battery or two


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## bobditts (Jul 19, 2006)

SQ4ME2 said:


> i recommend a battery or two


 
why?


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

SQ4ME2 said:


> i recommend a battery or two


Will you give more specific insight as to why I would need another battery or two. Other then the obviously responses of, "oh well I've had to do it before". 

I'll obviously upgrade my current _die easy_ battery to something like a Optima battery or open to suggestions. 

My current car has a 105 amp alt. which I feel can handle 2 pairs of the drivers, XLS 8" and Hiquphon OWII's running on an 8ohm load. Where as the DIYMA and 12M/4631G Revlators are running on a 4ohm load. The voltage drop through the currents drawn shouldn't require the need for an additional battery. 

I could even go as far as calculating the Ampere's drawn and adjust the amp's gain accordingly. I'm not partial to "cranking" my systems as I've aged so hence no need for an additional battery. It's more of a person install than a show off to my friends how "loud" it can get. 

I'll have to continue my research to properly select power wire and distribution sized and in line fuses. That's why I like this forum, pack full of useful informations and tips. :]

-Fixtion


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## aneonrider (Apr 28, 2007)

You are not pulling nearly enough current to need more batteries. Especially since maximum current draw will never be achieved.


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## dawgdan (Aug 10, 2006)

It was probably a default response upon seeing four amps in your diagram. Nevermind that none of them are monster 1kw jobs and that several will be run at 8 ohm stereo, thus pulling less current. Lunar makes nice stuff.. would love to try one some day.


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## Captain Paintball (Mar 18, 2007)

I'm just making sure... You are putting 60 watts to each tweeter and mid and 40 watts to the 8"? I would think I, and most others, would have the 40 to the tweeter, but I could be wrong. 

I don't know what the most difficult part of this installation will be: Putting XLS 8"s in the door, or waiting until December to install all that stuff!


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## aneonrider (Apr 28, 2007)

The 40 is being bridged from the looks of things.


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Captain Paintball said:


> I'm just making sure... You are putting 60 watts to each tweeter and mid and 40 watts to the 8"? I would think I, and most others, would have the 40 to the tweeter, but I could be wrong.
> 
> I don't know what the most difficult part of this installation will be: Putting XLS 8"s in the door, or waiting until December to install all that stuff!


The 40x2's are going to be bridge 1x180watts @ 4ohms, which should be around 90 watts each XLS 8, seeing as how they are 8ohm drivers.

The tweeters are also 8ohm drivers and will get a solid ~30 watts of power. 

I plan on mounting the XLS 8's under the console and partially exposed on the passenger side. Almost out of site, and the troubles will come in mounting and eliminating vibrations. Phasing, L R gains, and the nature of frequency range shouldn't affect staging too much, might see some gain from foot well area though. December shall be fun! 



aneonrider said:


> The 40 is being bridged from the looks of things.


Correct.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

the only bummer is the amps look big, and of nonuniform size. If they are identically sized, thatll be much better. They still look big though. Would it make more sense to go with an L100 for both midbass (for fewer amplifiers, two pair identically sized)? Or maybe the L60 per midbass (four amplifiers identically sized, big bass amp)? Or even L60's ALL around? (five identical, stackable amplifiers)

from my understanding of all drivers involved, L60's all around sounds like an IDEAL configuration!

Also, I recommend each L60 to power one mid, and one tweet. A Left/Right config rather than a Tweet/Mid config.


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## SQ4ME2 (Jul 22, 2007)

well you could make the amps one big one or do like a stacking install. where they are set in like steps


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Whiterabbit said:


> the only bummer is the amps look big, and of nonuniform size. If they are identically sized, thatll be much better. They still look big though. Would it make more sense to go with an L100 for both midbass (for fewer amplifiers, two pair identically sized)? Or maybe the L60 per midbass (four amplifiers identically sized, big bass amp)? Or even L60's ALL around? (five identical, stackable amplifiers)
> 
> from my understanding of all drivers involved, L60's all around sounds like an IDEAL configuration!
> 
> Also, I recommend each L60 to power one mid, and one tweet. A Left/Right config rather than a Tweet/Mid config.


Actually, those are general pictures. All the amps are three different sizes, 40x2 the smallest, 60x2 med. ; 100x2 largest. I like the idea of stacking them though. Or show case the 100x2 and have the other's on paired up. 

-Fixtion


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

I cant find the company website, but a review website said this:

"All Lunar amplifiers can be factory tweaked for higher output into optimized stereo and mono loads such as 8 Ohms, and 2 Ohms. "

Maybe look into that for the XLS? They also said Lunar was releasing an L40x4 amp. If that fits the L100x2 heatsink, then you could pare this down to a three amp config, with an L100x2 for bass, a modified L100x2 for midbass, and the L40x4 for mids and up all at the same size amp.

Of course, if the company is this cool, they would probably sell you empty heatsinks too which could be good for hiding gear (like power distribution or the ppi or both) allowing all your gear to fit into six L60x2 chassis for a uniform look in the trunk.

Just a thought...


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## solacedagony (May 18, 2006)

Whiterabbit said:


> I cant find the company website, but a review website said this:


http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

updated the product line, these no longer apply. Bummer. Will that mean this searies is rare, and you are stuck with the amps you chose?


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## SQ4ME2 (Jul 22, 2007)

all i found was this

http://www3.sympatico.ca/snarayan/lunar.html


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Whiterabbit said:


> the only bummer is the amps look big, and of nonuniform size. If they are identically sized, thatll be much better. They still look big though. Would it make more sense to go with an L100 for both midbass (for fewer amplifiers, two pair identically sized)? Or maybe the L60 per midbass (four amplifiers identically sized, big bass amp)? Or even L60's ALL around? (five identical, stackable amplifiers)
> 
> from my understanding of all drivers involved, L60's all around sounds like an IDEAL configuration!
> 
> Also, I recommend each L60 to power one mid, and one tweet. A Left/Right config rather than a Tweet/Mid config.


The diagram isn't very accurate so I put this together so everyone can compare and scalle the amps. Everything is drawn 1:1 scale, but the exact scale of the picture is uncertain. 

Amp configurations are welcomed.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

The Lunar amplifiers have a very small footprint, though they do run a little tall. And they seem to be more efficient at running 8 ohm loads then most other amplifiers. I have a L40x2 and its power was on par with my ESX Q75.2. And my L100x2 was also a beast. You can still upgrade these older L series, just contact them through the email addy on their site.

Great equipment! Good luck on the install. What vehicle are you installing this stuff in?


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

omarmipi said:


> The Lunar amplifiers have a very small footprint, though they do run a little tall. And they seem to be more efficient at running 8 ohm loads then most other amplifiers. I have a L40x2 and its power was on par with my ESX Q75.2. And my L100x2 was also a beast. You can still upgrade these older L series, just contact them through the email addy on their site.
> 
> Great equipment! Good luck on the install. What vehicle are you installing this stuff in?


I called Lunar, didn't ask about and upgrade, but they did say an 8ohm load shouldn't be a problem. It would only result in a loss of half the power. 

I love my gears  I'm going to use these forever, I'll make it work :]

Currently I'm working in a Sunfire 2dr. I'm studying abroad over the spring semester, so I may be driving something new/used next fall. O_O I'll use the sunfire for practice 


-Fixtion


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## bdubs767 (Apr 4, 2006)

IMO you dont need a battery...new alternator if anything as that is the only thing that creates power


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Small update. Just matted the xls to the L40x2 bridge 180x1 @ 4ohms. For even the 90 watts, given 8ohm on the xls, damn did it push the xls with great clean authority. I'm excited and can't wait.  

The L60x2 is a bit much for the 12M/Revs I'd say. Those gains will be set carefully and level will be adjusted on the DCX to keep amp clarity over processing.

Have yet to try L60x2 on the Hiquphon OWII's. I tested them on the 40x2 during the summer and they were fairly decent, did notice they needed a bit more power, so the L60x2 should do it justice. 

Still need to have the Panny Tube RCA front outputs looked at as well has repair one of the L40x2. Being 6 hours away from home and in college takes these simple tasks and turns them into part-time jobs.

That's all for now. 

-Fixtion


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

Just ran some numbers and looks like my current 4AWG power cable is plenty for the current draw from the amps. Pulling 31.905A at a total of 980 Watts. I suppose a BIG THREE could do me justice as I don't forsee an alternator upgrade. 

I just ordered Streetwires UFX0 Red Power Wire
21' (1/0) cable that may be up for sale pretty soon.

-Fixtion


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

*update.equipment*
*01.03.2008 Barcelona, Spain*

*update*

+*new installation date* summer 2008 starting 03.05.2008 | date.format: dd/mm/yyyy

*equpiment*

+*new equipment*: *ZAPCO DC Reference 1000.4* | _ZAPCO DC Reference 1000.4 awaiting another_

+*used equipment sale*: *Lunar Amplifiers* (2)*L40x2* | (2)*L60x2 *| (1)*L100x2* | (1)*PPI DCX-730*

>>>>pricing here<<<<

*-fixtion*


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## 96dak (Jan 28, 2008)

Fixtion said:


> I love my gears  I'm going to use these forever, I'll make it work :]
> 
> -Fixtion


that didnt last too long


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

96dak said:


> that didnt last too long


making it work would have required too much in car response measurements and modding of the sub amp to a specific crossover frequency. 

this is by far the closet to an ideal setup i'll come up with.

quote me on this one, it will be *perm*. for a long time to come.

*-fixtion*


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

*update.install*
*11.03.2008 Barcelona, Spain*

*update*

*+new installation planning*

*front.stage*
-mid/high dash install
-midbass located underneath dashboard in mdf enclosure approx. .69cu ft. inverse mounting
-fiberglass new center console for panny tube dimensions










*sub*
-diyma 12" reference sub
-bezel wrapped in black *tweed* cloth
-with a recessed fiberglass piece painted white/pearl around the sub
-trunk mounted.cabin facing installation(complete backseat folds down)
-sub will be mounted on the enclosure, not flush or recessed.
-beauty baffle will be flush to sub via fiberglass work

comments and constructive criticism welcomed.











*tweed*









thank you.

-fixtion


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## pianist (Mar 10, 2006)

great work requires great planning, keep it coming


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

pianist said:


> great work requires great planning, keep it coming


indeed, with the down time away from my car and install, i can sit down design, calculate, and model optimum enclosures and placement speculations.  

hoping to receive some feed back on the placement or design of my front stage and sub bezel. 

*-fixtion*


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

I recommend an upholstry reversal. I recomend the BLACK part of the baffle to be wrapped in MATCHING material to the trunk. I then recommend wrapping the WHITE part in the tweed, leave it white, change the tweed color, whatever you want to go nuts. But I'd rather see the baffle integrate to the car rather than not match.

I think you made a wise choice by moving towards matching amplifiers in size  I can think of so many ways to make the wiring look real keen with two four channels with integrated processing. Especially if you use symbilink inputs!

Also, I can not recommend enough to use kick panel locations for ALL drivers. But especially the midranges.

Im jealous about the midbass drivers location. I dont have any real estate on the passenger side for that kind of install.

Do you plan to upgrade to symbilink?


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

> Whiterabbit


*upholstery*
the matching upholstery sounds like a good idea. i suppose i considered that color for the headliner will be seeing a new upholstery cloth and color, not certain on color yet, but as of now it's tan. i feel it really clashes with the rest of the car that has a rather monochromotic color palette. great suggestions, that i will surely execute!

*matching.amps*
you actually got me thinking as a wise man would on matching amps, and consolidating equipment, thus the switch to dc reference amps. as of now i'm considering milo x's install as the departure point for my install in respects to mounting, wiring, i will vary the bezel over the amps of my own intentions. sketches/renders to come.

*kick.panels*
i currently have a 6.5"+3/4" comp set in kicks and the staging all over the place. highs are near eye level, where midrange is at dashboard height, and bass is on the floor, but staged at the windshield. i've spent several hours listening to the hiquhpons on eye level and tweaked with different configurations and for the purpose of tonality up on the dash is favored. as with any point source driver such as the hiquphons i've determined to have them on eye level, as with any properly aimed ht or multimedia satelites. i may just fabricate both and do an a/b comparison. i'll model a few configurations later and you can give opinions. 

*under-dash.mount*
in regards to the under-dash enclosures, there is a restriction of space, but i'm determined to mount the drivers inverted. additionall, due to the crossover points they will be severely off axis with little-to-no consequence. 

*symbilink*
symbilink was on the top reasons why i decided to go with the dc reference amps. i'm running the panasonic tube h/u and running a tube balanced output is the most ideal one can get to a sonically accurate signal. it's gold to my ears. i've experienced the potential of such a configuration in the *pianist install*. so naturally i liked what i heard and researched the benefits of such a configuration. as they say, the rest is history.

*statement.closing*
i plan to provide sketches/models of the details and installation before the build is actually started, which will take place shortly after i arrive back in the states in may from barcelona. this has become more of a blog type install page, and i hope to update with a new thread pictures of the install.

i hope to document the steps for new mobile audio enthusiasts to newbies to car audio, as well as provide a log in hopes to compete after the build is done.

oh, what does it take to be part of team zapco  i'd be interested.

*-fixtion*


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

*update.install*
*16.01.2009 Harlingen, Texas*

*+new installation planning*

*front.stage*
+hiquphon owii
+scan-speak 12m revelator
+peerless 830491 xls 8
-mid/high dash install . . . pending fabrication








-midbass kick panel vented into dashboard . . . pending planning
-fiberglass new center console for panny tube dimensions . . . pending fabrication









*sub.stage*
+peerless 830845 nomex . . . awaiting delivery

*amplification.dsp*
+(2) pair zapco dc reference 1000.4 
+zapco AG750

*headunit*
panasonic cq-tx5500w

*install.progress*
+cabin firing, sealed enclosure








+wired speakers








+wired power/ground . . . pending AG750 install planning(false floor?)








+amp rack painted . . . pending final planning and mounting








+amps mounted and wired








painting detail








keeping the wires in check








attempt at avoiding power/ground/speak wire/signal wire contact 2min. mod.








-wiring symbilink . . . awaiting carpet, seat removal & deadener application.
[img]

comments and constructive criticism welcomed.

[B]thank you.[/B]


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