# Silver DUD 2015 KIA SOUL!



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ok, I have almost every one of these part's so I'm ready to start on my build log. so, we're working with a 2015 kia soul! stock apperence SQ build is my attempt here. it'll of course depend on what happens as i do the project. but thus far in my planning. I've come up with this drawling of setup. 














































front end - 


JBL 660 GTI's










Audio physics xr 3.5 center channel










amp's 

MMats SQ4070




















Arc Audio XDI 1200.6 (still being shipped out no pictures  )

processing 
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3



















subwoofer
German Maestro SWF8012HE 8" in stock location (upgrade down the line depending on how I like this choice. but I am happy with the stock system and its an 8, and its basicly an open cabin no trunk in my car so it's pretty easily heard even for the 50 some watts its probobly pumping 











oh, between the amp and processor will be a Victory Sonics tube 4 channel pre amp, hopfuly at least! we'll see how things go. 










still want to upgrade the rear's probobly, but idk what to put in em...



some of my previouse work - 
































































sorry I don't have many pictures left. i lost allot. allot of them were stored online and allot of those sites went from free to charge so i lost allot of them because the origonals were stored on a hard drive and that drive crashed and i only restored like 30% of them  but I've learned allot from shows and talking to people over years. that build was from a long time ago. gonna try to be allot neater on the amp install for wiring and such. i kind of had it half assed because i changed out amps allot.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Dude those jbls and that sub are gonna be sick!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright. it's going to be a slow build sorry. i'm still working lagistic's ive been gathering these parts for months, years even. i once had tons of parts, but i sold em off as i never used em and than i got this car and i wanted to do audio again, so here i am. I've been working on a dream system around some JBL 660's the top end jbl's. the teir above the 608 GTI's i ran back in 2009. i loved those drivers. 










JUST WHAT am i going to run in the rears?!?!?1?

so, i moved on decided the arc was not the direction i wanted. I'm currently am in possesion of the Mmats SQ4070, a Jl audio HD600\4, and a MMats HIFI6150D on the way, so. I wanna run the 6150, and the 4070, bridge the 4070 or biamp some braxial's in the rear's I'm looking at some used 6 1\2" morel braxial's i spoted in the used gear forum. but idk, i Might mount tweeters. i could use some ideas on what to do for the rear. allot of people don't run rear's i've been waiting for inspiration to hit me. 

quite honestly, i had a moment where i realized i could run it all off 8 channels passive, or 9 active off stock amp\after market processing, right now i'm going to stick with stock processesing into some victor tube pre amps, but i am only tube pre amping 4 channels, the other 4 I wanna jsut use a normal LOC, but I could use some ideas. i want something quality, but I'm not sure where to go. audio control's has a 6 channel, and i want I can do anything future proof the setup and be able to add 10 channel processing, any amp, any setup. so, I've been considering that. but again room is an issue in such a small car. right now everything is planned be under the driver and passenger seat. the processor\pre amps passenger and amps driver side. 


some gear that's come in in the mean while, I got the subwoofer in from germany  finily, turn out it was at the post office for a week and a half. didn't see the slip in the mail. 









interesting thing is this is a 90 watt rms rated speaker by German maestro, but the sticker on the magnet says 150 watt RMS. its 295 peak either way, it's going to handle it fine. I may even bridge channels 5+6 on the 6150D, idk like 400-500 watts it probobly does to 4 Ohm i'm not sure. 


















Some eye candy, the JBL 660's are out of the attic and I was dry fitting them to these baffels i got from a shop in the states. they make brackets for high end car audio in their shop and sell em. happened ot have one for my KIA. they look pretty nice, made out of expanded PVC.





























I still need some more deadening materials, I Have 25 SF of some second skin asfault based tiles , relaly nice one s ive had left over for some time. I need some decoubling barrior and I was thinking of doing the whole inrior with 3 layers and a MLV(Mass load vinyl) to deaden and sound proof the whole bag, I think it'll really upgrade the sound beyond what even the drivers can do and I really wanna go all out with this. I need some idea's on where to buy, who to buy from. i hear the comertial\resdential grade MLV is very smelly and maybe a firewall or something but My cars small i can't; really get away with anything like that. 

something like this maybe idk but i hear it smells. no reviews :-\ damnit. lol 









http://www.amazon.com/Residential-A...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1CY656KFJX12O


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## bigharv (Mar 26, 2014)

I ordered my MLV from Trademark Soundproofing. It's a full 1lb per sqft and it doesn't have any odor at all. Just checked their site, price has gone up a bit since I bought mine last year - $219 for 100 sqft with free shipping. That was the best total shipped price I found when I was looking.

Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing Material - Trademark Soundproofing


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sebody on car audio classifiedsrecended this stuff. is 20sf/100$ but has all layers built into one. 

http://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v1-200-mil-sound-deadener-20-sqft/

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

anybody know anything about this rainbow dsp 1.8?

Digital Sound Processor - Rainbow Car Audio
]


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Talked to rainbow tech. The toslink is stereo signal no decoder for doubly. 

So maybe I could get a decoder and use which ever processor I like. Although I do like this rainbow. And German made makes me happy  or I'm honestly consider just an ms8 calling it a day. The condition are pretty ideal for it. Its one of two I know that will accept the dobly digital signal from my stock deck. Either that or an 8 channel local off the stock amp. But than little tweaking can be done

I'm honestly feeling like then LOC involves quite a bit more work soldering. As I need to get the amp on its feed out of the amp not the speaker side of the circuit. I am still not sure if I should also just use stock wiring..I gave like 25ft I believe of some twisted pair. Perhaps worth running? Idk. Considering what is worth doing and trying to just get this project moving. Procrastination and lack of funds are playing a large part though. 200$ away from this amp and need an ms8 now. 

Question with the digital signal. I would be sending it via coax I'd still retain stock volume control correct? :/ with the ms-8 but also in general I'm curious. 


Erm....Why do I have no feedback feel like I'm talking to myself out here  

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

OK, final draft on everything. turns out i'm using the 360.3, the guy who picked it up picked it up but didnt use it and is letting me pick it back up. whitch i appriciate as i woulda lost my ass trying to find one for that price again. no way. 

anyways, this is what i'm doing. stock rear speakers for now.


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## Vman455 (Nov 7, 2009)

I picked up 100 sf MLV from Isostore last month, $130 for the roll + $40 shipping: TotalMass MLV Barrier | 1 Pound and 2 Pound Limp Mass Barrier

I have most of my car done with it now, no smell and easy to work with (unlike the Home Depot dB-3 I tried before).


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

deals done, got a pair of Image Dynamic XS65's for the rear's and I will be recieving both the MMats HIFI6150D and the ID XS65's around the same time  now i need to reaquire the DSP from my friend whitch I'll probably be doing soon. 

anyways, this is the final and printed draft of my car audio system  










Explination in short, I'll be taping into SPDIF in harness A at rear of head unit, wiring in a COAX cable, running that to the rear, where I will use a Dobly decoder to decode my 5.1 spdif signal to a 6 channel analog output that the RF should be able to process. I will than tune the unaltered signal throught he 360, to the amps. I will basicly be running 10 channels in my system, the 4 channel will handle the crossover of the signal, OR, i could use the passive of the JBL for the XS65's. just a thought, I'd like some feedback on that. now sure how I want to do that yet. 

I would am not sure where one gets a good coax cable, i suppose some nice audio cable and solder on my my own rca ends is the best way to do this?


update: items on their way! ID XS65, and MMats HIFI6150D!!

teaser's. for me and for you  I'm so excited for the system XD


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

been working on tweaking the design for processing, i'm still on the fence for processing or no processing and I have 2 processors i'm between. the rf360.3 and the ms-8 OR the simple solution basicly run off the outputs of the stock amp into line converter into the amps, and run passive. i'm quite happy with stock, i'd live with it. but i'd also like upgrade...it is a matter of desire I suppose and I"m not sure what i desire yet fully out of the tuning of this system..i do miss being able to tune, so option A and C leave no room to really tweak, passive no T|A between tweeter and mid rnage up front than. 


so. heres where that is - 

*with out processing*








I wanna be able to run the navigation output from the stock stereo. I guess they coudln't encode the navigation voice in the 5.1 on the spdif is my best guess and they sent it to be passed through the stock amp in much the same way i'll have to do. but i'm not sure if that will work. 

On connector C of this diagram of the output of the stock stereo you see navigation voice (-) and (+) on pins 16 and 17. 










*with processing (note the decoder is not needed in the setup if i run the ms-8 as it has a built in decoder*












in the meantime of all this, the Mmats HIFI6150D came as well as the XS65's 


















and today i got into he rear door panel to make sure the rear speakers will work the way i want. now i'm not sure how i'm going to deaden this...maybe from the back? can i put the MLV on the inside the door as to avoid clearence issues? things are tight and i dont want to mess up the stock look to much or push on the door panels.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

A hard days work 6 hours on a Sunday and I have my main power run and ran the control wire for zapco Z8 controller.. I went with the zapco Z8 because it happened to pop up for a good price and i talked to guy who had it he helped me figure it all out ! Thanks to my good friend nano  he was had indispensable input on figuring out the CAN control setup and digital spdif signal from the head unit. His experience helped me improve my understanding and to me that's what this all about. Learning and building with our hands. 



















Routed the wire with stock computer harness. Their was a convenient gromit right above break pedel driver side right behind battery. The computers right behind battery. To which I followed and descovered this. 



















Ran it through driver side firewall grommit down corner paneling with stock wiring. 














































Thinking I might find an ignition switch leg I could put a relay in here and create my own separate amp circuit. Just need an ignition switched leg and a relay which I can even mount on amp rack for simplicity sake. 









Put the Z8R in my fuse box in my cabin I'm gonna fiberglass it maybe just tuck it in there the panels easy to replace so I might glass it. Idk would be cool just for looks I think and more functional. I'll never use the presets unless I have it mounted accessible while I'm driving b

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Another day working on it. I got 95% of the wire ran.

Got the driver side floor deadened 100%




























Got the seats out and the rear seat out today. As well as the center console and most paneling aside from the dashboard. 


















Found this on the moonroof where nobody would ever be able to see unless they did what I did haha. I was standing over center console. 




























Checking out the stock sub location. Not sure how I feel about it. Its basicly into the corner panel of the car no plastic box or anything. 








































































I'm only running new wires for the woofers. New wires to stock amp location and utilizing stock wires for everything else. 

Not sure how I'm gonna get the new woofer wires through the serial port on the shoe for the door.


















Got most the deadening and wires ran on driver side. I also ran a new line for the center Chanel. Everything twisted pair 16 gauge. 


















The wiring all came out behind the back seat in spare tire well. I'll be fabricating a rack in the corner against the back seat and a second battery in the corner under their as well. 









This shows you the space I'll have to hide the amps and second battery. 








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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I found these boots on amazon. These should work for the front doors so I don't have to modify the serial port since theirs over 30 wires to the driver door boot.

the passenger will hopfully be like the rear doors where I was able to slide the wire next to the serial port through the boot of the door.









Don't forget a gasket! These are moving objects I can only imagine eventually that boot will slip loose for a day or two and would otherwise cut and pinch the wire on the sharp edge of the hole I'll need make on my door and next to stock boot on car. 









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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Making some real progress. Got the floor fully deadened today up to the rear seat and finished wiring. 

To do for the next month - 
Finish home runs for front right and front left woofers in doors. Might be adding a second boot to avoid cutting holes in serial harness for driver and passenger front doors. Might require removable of both doors.

I'll also finish deadening the rear end. Intend to be able to mount rear seat back in by the next time my buddy can let me work in his garage. Most my gears their.

Next month once I get back to the garage I'll be soldering the wires in finish that up. Mount subwoofer put corner panels back in and I'll be working on amp rack by end of next trip. Hopefully the following trip to be the last. Near end of summer its looking I'll be done. 









My Buddy's home made 24V LED strip he powered it off his 18V M18 Milwaukee battery. 








Ran the passenger rear door home run for the midwoofer. Was pretty easy boot popes right out. In retrospect I figured out I could of done the fishing and everything through the front door with rear door closed much easier for anybody reading this. A good tip. 








Deadened the rear floor first this morning. Than the front passenger floor this afternoon. I am curiouse what are thoughts on under center console? Should I take it back out next time to deaden?








Ran the tweeter home runs to stock amp and two RCA's for the spdif signal and the navigation signal. 









The RCA's will run to this spdif DTS converter to an analog 6 channel output to the z-8. 




































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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Still chugging away at it. Today I emptied the car wished out the back end since it'd been open and full of shut and used for a month. It was pretty ****ing flthy. The tire well ports into the car and allota dust from driving dirt and rock roads. I'm thinking I wanna seal all that up deaden it. 

Painted on like a thin coat and than another thicker coat I tried to do today didn't have much time had to let it dry and load it back up. Hopefully tomorrow ill hit it again with another few coats. 










You would be surprised how much you'd fit in a little kia soul..remember I do work construction. 





















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## D34dl1fter (Jun 23, 2016)

Hey ray...keep plugging away man, good progress ya got going...sometimes it seems there just isn't enough time in the day...look forward to checking it out when its all said and done


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

D34dl1fter said:


> Hey ray...keep plugging away man, good progress ya got going...sometimes it seems there just isn't enough time in the day...look forward to checking it out when its all said and done




you know it. I can't wait myself...the stock system is pretty crystal clear so im super anxiouse about how much more dynamics im going to have in my car now with this setup...because if i planned this all right and deaden this right whitch thus far I have. it's going to be ****ing thumping hard, clean, with crystal clear dynamics gobs of midbass and plenty of low end. 

I'm thinkiing I'm going to just seal the sub enclosure, its not even sealed as is....im amazed it plays as well as it does. its just ****ing in the tire well. 

I finished painting on the deadner, omg what a pain in the ass, 3 days in a row, about 2-3 coats each time. I really tried to gob it on, but not to sloppy, i got the tire wells as silent as a piece of concrete, not sure i'll even put many tiles on em, whitch is cool because I was low on tiles anyways for the job. I painted the sub enclosure, not as extensivly, i should of got more on their but I did not. 

next i'll be doing the tiles, foam, and MLV in the rear end AND THAN THE FUN BEGINS! AMP RACK. whitch is bascily a piece of wood in this case...Not sure how nuts i'm going to go, i might put some fancy into it, but nothing to time consuming after all its all hidden, not a display rack. pure practal and hard to steeel!!!! whitch is key. 

I still need some advice on what to do with the front doors, i've seen people drill out serial ports on the door connections but my front door has like 30 wires not even really room for that, i think i might just add a boot. any thoughts? maybe an idea  let me know guys! feedback is what the forum is for!!!:surprised:


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

In about 5 mins on my lunch I had my tweeters and center apart. So these parts will be stupid easy to do I'm so stoked for this to he done already





































. 

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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice front speaker set...


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

All that effort is not wasted, too bad you didn't have much discussion in choosing your equipment. There are threads that just go un-noticed for whatever reason. Keep up the good work and make sure to deaden that 8" sub location and use some fiber fill perhaps. I can't believe how the OEM just puts speakers anywhere without any type of treatment or enclosure or baffle such as your center channel.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Should I encapsulate that in some fashion?

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

For some reason nobody posts. I'm honestly going to stop wasting my time cataloging it. Its not helping me its for the community. I can figure out my own problems. Buh bye now forum. 

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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

holiday weekend? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

eviling said:


> Should I encapsulate that in some fashion?
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Encapulate the center? I dont think its an issue because its essentially Infinite baffle firing into the under dash, though I would definitely seal the front wave from the rear.

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

That would be in some way or fashion wouldn't it

Sorry for my bitchfit. Life's just been ****ting I haven't been able to work on this. A lunch break I played with my dash one months progress.  

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

eviling said:


> That would be in some way or fashion wouldn't it
> 
> Sorry for my bitchfit. Life's just been ****ting I haven't been able to work on this. A lunch break I played with my dash one months progress.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Yea, blow abunch of cash and you can't get anything done. I know the feel

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Yea, blow abunch of cash and you can't get anything done. I know the feel
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


The struggle is real!

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Been trying to get myself mentally there haven't been myself in awhile. Stress has been a big thing in my life of late. 

Next plan of attack : seal, deaden and install subwoofer 

Finish deadening rear end of car set a board to mount amps should a pretty simplistic amp rack. I could go crazy I might go a little crazy its all hidden I honestly don't give a ****. I'll probably end up with just a board about 15 inches deep across the rear seat fold in the sheet metal in tire well space the battery should tuck nicely tucked upright or sideways somewhere I might build a box for it


Than I need to run the mid bass speaker wires into the driver front and passenger front either through existing boot or add a second boot myself than deaden doors and simply install drivers and wire the whole bag IP than units just an uphill climb to tune. 

I almost forgot u have to funner glass and bondo than wrap with done vinyl

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Few thoughts : 

The amp arrangement. How should I power things. I was thinking the T3 outputs would have a nice smooth top end for the tweeters. But my arangment leaves 2 extra channels so here's what I thought -

6150- 4 channels into front and rear doors. (Rear doors are passive) + 1 channel to the center + 1 to the subwoofer

And the obvious proceeding. 

Option 3 though I do have a helix B2 2 channel....I happened across the 4 channel at a good price. Facebook yard sale, anyways. The helix B2 might be nice too and I could sell off my 4 channel easier than the damn 2 channel but still don't NEED to sell it either. 

Just would like some other heads in it

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Picked the rest of the gear up from my Buddy's his wife was a little sour about me using all his free time. Going to finish it up at my buddy's place. 

It's kind installed ...its at least all in the car









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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Worked on it last night. Tried making a speaker ring but i forgot the new bit the old one was broke and I snapped the rest off last night. 

So I started working on deadening the rest of the back end from the bumper forward. I got the back wall done, the floor doesn't need much since I painted that deadner on. I'll put a few panels but honestly I slopped that **** on its donzo. 

I'm hoping to hit it Sunday. 

Also finished deadening the fender well for the sub put a large 10x10" piece behind sub a few small pieces. It was also painted but a thinner layer. It is proving impossible to seal that sub so I'm going to do what they did and go IB. Since it already is. Just basicly going to sure things up and mount sub at same depth, with foam ring to couple to the flush ring on the corner panel it'll separate the back wave from the front wave like the stock setup did it after looking at it I realised how they had it set up. 



Edit: should I use the foam layer and even Mass loaded vinyl in the sub area to deaden things up tight or will that take away from the impact? Its running Infinite baffle essentially so, im not quite sure. 


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Tell me more about this paint on deadener

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

This is the stuff I used. Think its a ceramic base or something, works pretty well. I brushed mine on but you CAN spray it but you don't wanna just run that pure through you'd have to thin it out or use a nice setup. Def run water through your whole **** after. 

Bonus, its also a thermal insulator. To birds one stone. Car does seem more theemaly controlled since I lined it I'm about 60% done. Still no door panels done. I only used that spray on the rear end of the car. Just panels for the floor and such 

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## Ericdd (Jul 3, 2011)

nice, I was looking at that too. What kind of coverage did you get with a gallon?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Pretty much what ya see in the picture. 

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

eviling said:


> This is the stuff I used. Think its a ceramic base or something, works pretty well. I brushed mine on but you CAN spray it but you don't wanna just run that pure through you'd have to thin it out or use a nice setup. Def run water through your whole **** after.
> 
> Bonus, its also a thermal insulator. To birds one stone. Car does seem more theemaly controlled since I lined it I'm about 60% done. Still no door panels done. I only used that spray on the rear end of the car. Just panels for the floor and such
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Any smell? 

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## Ericdd (Jul 3, 2011)

eviling said:


> Pretty much what ya see in the picture.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


so it will basically do a trunk, cool thanks


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Ericdd said:


> so it will basically do a trunk, cool thanks


Well my kia is very small so a small trunk yeah that'd be a true statement idk about a full sized sedan trunk. 

Anybody know why my stock amp has 4 wires to the sub that appears to be dual 4 ohm as it says 2 ohm in the books for what the system drivers are. Including sub. But is it combining right left Chanel's? I wanted to temproly install and wire up the new sub as its the only part I can instantly upgrade without external additions. 

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

eviling said:


> Well my kia is very small so a small trunk yeah that'd be a true statement idk about a full sized sedan trunk.
> 
> Anybody know why my stock amp has 4 wires to the sub that appears to be dual 4 ohm as it says 2 ohm in the books for what the system drivers are. Including sub. But is it combining right left Chanel's? I wanted to temproly install and wire up the new sub as its the only part I can instantly upgrade without external additions.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Check sub impedance with a multimeter. Amp may be bridged internall

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Check sub impedance with a multimeter. Amp may be bridged internall
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


Yeah that's that conclusion I came to also but why? Seems like a waste of wire

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

eviling said:


> Yeah that's that conclusion I came to also but why? Seems like a waste of wire
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Who knows. Check with dmm. It may be cheaper for them to produce 4 long thin than 2 thick wires.

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Was working on the sub ring again....and broke the router bit AGAIN >_< but now I know I need a 9" OD and 7 1/4" ID and a 1" at least. Going to run it IB. Its just not gonna happen any other way in their. Having trouble finding the source of a rattle in the corner by the sub when it beats. 

















Things were still a little to tingy but now they aren't . Its like knocking in a rock. I have tons of this thinner stuff but it on top of the paint on did a great one two combo. Honestly probably could a used two of those to fully deaden with just the spray. 



















Knocking around trying to find the source of the rattle I decided to take off the tail lights. Deaden things up under their as well. The thin cheap stuff fit nice and squeezed under the brackets perfectly. Got the corners really well solid once I did that but I think I'm going to need to take the rest of the car apart to find this source. 


















So, hopefully next time will be my last day of deadening the rear end. Than its on to amp rack and putting my rear end back together. 

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

should be getting a good day on it this weekend if things work out. i wanna head up early and hit it ion the am right to dusk. that should have me deadened out, new sub FINILY, and FINILY the corner paneling back in my car, maybe even the back seat if things go welly well!  but i might leave it out as its easyer to work back their siting on the seat backwords. youd be surprised how easy it is to manover around that car once that back seats out. when i was deadening the floor i was sitting on the seat facing the trunk, was quiet convertible, i was extremely bored actually :|*


once thats done, it should be a matter of time before im almost done with this beast! but the details are gonna kill me, i still need to fiberglass the external unit, its not NEEDED, but i wanted those volume knobs and mode buttons, and the USB for the computer for the sound system to all be on my dash, to keep with the techy theme  i think my car is gonna blow peoples minds! im so excited to hear it, and so nerviouse if just one of the things ive planned doesnt work or a parts broken...oh man im just so worried on the inside :| lol


Got the rear door baffles finily been waiting to order em. Basicly 70$ for a pair. But worth it!!!! They recreate stock situation for new drivers, seal front of speaker off from rear with door panel baffle. 












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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Took the top corner panel out of the rear end above the sub



























Put on some foam, the panels are insulated . still debating where to use the MLV. I haven't figured out if I have enough for all 4 doors I already know I need more foam, and a little more dampening pads, 










This picture was like an hour and a half later after I upthreaded the 11mm to a 12mm bolt because I cross threaded the main structural bold for the seatbelt so yeah :| but now that ***** is much stringer so, just took some cranking to thread as I has no metric drill bits! But lubing it up back it out crank it, repeat! Took about 20 mins of hard cranking but when k heard that pop when I go through the thread man that's a hard earned victory!









Finily worked out the sub ring, have to make a dual ring setup, as the bolts were just not lining up well with the sub bolts, so I added a 2nd 3/4" ring and rabbit bit it down 5/8" to recess it now I only need 3/8 foam instead of 3/4 to catch the baffle of the corner panel to separate the front waves fr the rear waves


















changed the 10mm bolts to hex head bolt, as it was proving difficult to dirl the whole wide enough on the bracket for a socket, so we just picked up some different bolts when i went for tapper to retap that 11mm bolt to a 12mm bolt need i remind eveyrone what a massive pain in my ass that was! i was flipping **** too because i wanted my car back together, my buddy coudlnt believe i hand upthreaded it without drilling a larger hole from 11m to 12 or 11.5 at least. :| elbow grease and metal cuting lube are key!!!


















This is everything back together or at least as much as its been all summer haha. 










The day leaves a battle wound, pretty significant one too, had some meat hanging out and it kept bleeding up again and getting all over my rings as I cut them.











far as the stock sub being 2 ohms to amp suppoesdly i dont know how thats possible with dual 2 ohm coils on the subwoofer, and it appears to be bridge in some way internaly in the amp, perhaps with some resisters to create the 4 ohm load but that seems like a lot of wasted energy, idk the sub got allot quiet with the deadening now, still a persisting rattle that may be just from the seat belt brackets you see above i removed to deaden, but their is not much i can do about the box its self, its engineered to be the way it is and its safety so i aint gonna **** with it.
7

for the amp rack, i'm thinking of removing the styrophome insert, its just not leaving me enough room, the other guy who put his amps hteir had micro amps. mine are all very small i indeed, class D amps, but still a very hard squeeze it hink, by next time i'll have things dry fitting and see what im going to do but i'm thinking of building a tool box, with the inserted extended back for an amp rack, and make it so the box its self can be lifted to access an added spare tired in due time I'd hope to retain the possibility of a spare tire.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Took apart the center channel again on my lunch checked out sizing, turns out I had Stock 4.25 mid range, pretty dinky looking, considering changing to a another center since I have so much room, any recommendations against the audio physics xr3.5? Considering a hybrid L4SE, or something larger. 

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## JordyG (Dec 1, 2012)

I see you spend a lot of efforts in sound deadening. There are some a video's on caraudiofabrication youtube channel with all kinds of tips to solve those annoying little rattles. One of them is on Quick Tips, but the sound deadening video's also have some great tips. Maybe it's useful for you too.

Maybe you can use a 4" JBL GTI component set for the center channel. Not sure how big the grill cover is, but it looks like you could fit a 4" mid and a tweeter there.

I read you lack time. Common issue in car audio... What I like to do is build in different phases and don't use short periods of time to work all over the car (boot, tweets, center, cabling, etc). Then it starts getting messy in your car, in your workplace / shop and you start to lose time. Just focus on one piece of the install at a time and prepare a lot of stuff, so when you have a complete day you can use it in an effective way. To give an example: In a spare hour you can take out your door cards, measure and draw your baffles and mount back the doorcards. Then you prepare the baffles / adapters and everything and when you have time for a complete day you take apart the door and you can start deadening, wiring and assembling right away.

When using the router, don't cut the thick wood at once, but use several rounds. Otherwise you overheat the router. My dad did that to my old router, so now I have a new one - a better one. 

I hope these tips helps you making progress. You have some nice kit and a cool ride!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

JordyG said:


> I see you spend a lot of efforts in sound deadening. There are some a video's on caraudiofabrication youtube channel with all kinds of tips to solve those annoying little rattles. One of them is on Quick Tips, but the sound deadening video's also have some great tips. Maybe it's useful for you too.
> 
> Maybe you can use a 4" JBL GTI component set for the center channel. Not sure how big the grill cover is, but it looks like you could fit a 4" mid and a tweeter there.
> 
> ...


Thats se great advice thank you ! I was thinking maybe a jbl set like your saying that's right with my thoughts. I was also thinking a bigger mid range but than I loose that top end of the XR. Could try both see which I like maybe. 

The best part about the doors is I bought pre built baffles spec'd to my drivers from a shop. Cost me a good 200$ but worth it and they're expanded PVC. 










http://www.audiodesignscg.com

Got em from these guys they've been great to deal with even worked with me on shipping and discounted 30$ on my second order for the rear door baffles since I ordered the fronts way back I didn't know the speakers for rear door yet

Maybe something like this would work. Idk I'd like a bit higher end but idk of any high end drivers in that size range in a comp /coax 









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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

****ing super nice work man! Stages just work in small
Stages and complete one stage at time youll get it and it be super rewarding when done. With little small rewards as each stage is finished. Love your gfi set I have wanted them for while now.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Yeah I've been wanting to run gtis since I got into car audio they've remained at the top of my list for years. 


Plans are to go forward :
1- finish deadening floor/back end
2- mock up floor with cardboard and cut base board for amp rack
3- build boxes for storage on rack, friction fit the whole bag, 
4 - Mount amps/equipment


Somewhere in their I wanna get the new SUb and center in, as they're the only two items I can switch out for stock. Than moving forward rear doors, so on. But like you guys say, the rewards are what move ya forward. Its just such slow going with sturdyimg up the whole car as I move along its been a painfully slow process. 



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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Got some work done today kinda one tracked on the center channel right now. I'm going to have to pull the new wire up the dash for the center and mount it close up the panel and run without a center for awhile till things are going same with sub, the corner panel needs to be in for me to build the rack I've discovered today in my exploration of things and talking with my buddy





































If you look you can see the clerence of the stock flange, it sits on the bracket instead of the outer ring of the speaker because the new speakers is much smaller. But I'll just out a gasket on the top, and a gasket under speaker and under the brackets feet that attach to the car to completely machanicly isolate it from everything 

















Might work on it tomorrow, wanna finish the corner and get the corner panel back together. Got some real Velcro today to mount the MLV to the car. 

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Took apart center console top to access to run the center speaker wire I neglected to ever pull it up the dash. 








Was a tight space I could litflerly just fit the wire up grab it from the other side and pull. Wasn't super difficult but not easy either. 











































Took apart knew panel in hopes of figuring out how to run the speaker wire in the front driver door still no solution in sight, and the fuse box is in my way I have to take out my seat and lay on my back to get any access to the grommit for the door but its fully loaded with wires not sure what to do :/ 




















This is the current storage situation. The foam instar sits up on panels and the result the back end technicly sits slightly above tire well likely to allow room for spare tire. Theirs about 5 inches of space from the rear seat to the back of the insert when I build it I'll build it from the floor so 2 inches taller it'll be but roughly 5 inches shorter in depth. I can also make it a tool box instead so no need for theultible trays. 



















Also today I finished the top rear passenger side above the subwoofer out the panel back on for the last time, I figured out what was rattling and I put some foam on the corner panel where the seat belt went through off the ancher point for the shoulder level strap, it would jiggle in the bolt and its all metal. Putting the foam against it quieted it down and I deadened the box surrounding the seat belt mechanism its self basically a 4x4" hollow shell that went behind the seat belt mechanism. 

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Been waiting three weeks to order this stuff and I still need another 50$ in deadner. I'm well over 600$ on materials for this and I had at least 200$ in materials I didn't need to buy. But I don't like to half ass things. 

That's why this project is taking so long. Its taking me so long to make desicians, makes orders, and figure out when I'll even have the money. 

build









I've decided to salvage wire clips off stock drivers I can't find the bitchs nowhere, not to mention the tweeters clips are RH and LH the centers a totally different clip and so is the subwoofer. Going to run sub, and center off stock wiring and amp is my next solid move forward. Than were in the home stretch once panels start going in. 

Once that amp rack built I'll see some real progress. As by than all fabrications are done except putting the zapco Z-8R remote unit into the fuse box but I will probably do that soon, going to cut three sides and flap the bottom try to get it dry fit with no fabrication. Gonna be a difficult cut. Probably using the soldering knife to make a nice line. 

The tweeters are being tapped into at the stock amp to utilize stock wiring from their forward but those are the only drivers running stock wiring. Once I get the new equipment in I take the harness for the speakers out off the amp and splice into a female receiver harness I'm buying in the picture above, that disconnects the center and sub which will than run off the new wires that will also be tied to them





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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

Nice progress.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Ordered a second fuse box cover so i can cut through the original and still have the fuse layout to to refer to for future sake. Was going to try to find a switched leg to tap for the remote wire that's ran with the data cable for the Z-8

Than I'll create a circuit for the amps turn on mechanics with a simple relay, using power off new battery. The second battery also will be isolated so they won't train each other. 




























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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Went to do the big three and finish terminations under hood but the stock wiring setup is leaving me needing to modafy my plans. The stock 4 gauge from the alt to battery has an angled bracket that just reaches the stock battery terminal. But the wire is accualy 2" below that crimped kntk that bracket that gets covered by the stock plastic battery terminal cover. 








My new O ring terminal won't fit with the stock plastic flange around the stock o ring witch I'll probably retain I just need to modify this.











Big Progress far as install. Finely got the new subwoofer in and wired up, and the center channel in as well!!





































Only got about 2 hours work today but am feeling much better about the Progress's of this project now that I'm accutaly listening to new drivers. 

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Got a distro block ordered for the negative so I got the grounding worked out, still not sure how I'm gonna attach the new hot wire to the alt to battery. The stock o ring is ran under engine so I'd rather just use it on top of, but the new o ring terminal won't fit under the stock insolated one, not sure if I should care but I'd rather not have that exposed. Not sure what to do about it. 




















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## ADD/Andy (Jul 5, 2016)

Maybe something similar to this on the alternator stud? 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017...+insulator&dpPl=1&dpID=416KeKbwyaL&ref=plSrch

This was just a quick Amazon search, I imagine you can find a better size or maybe one with wire outlets on both sides relatively easy

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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Yeah that's what I'm thinking a rubber alt gasket. The one now is plastic the old rubber ones always let ya add **** these new cars and their plastic 

Found and ordered this one it says up to 2/0 I can cut off the tip to for even more thicker wire km sure I'll be able to stuff Twp wires under it. 









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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Looky what I got when I got home this week  should be able to do the wiring and done in the front end, wire in the remote wire into the acc in the fuse box, put the corner panels back on, get back seat in and start working on amp rack 










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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Got the ground terminal, big 2 of 3 ran, I have the new hot on the alt. With the new rubber gasket, didn't fit perfect but it worked. 





































Still need to add the distro block to stock wiring, pull it up to new positive terminal, and connect the outbound to the back of the car, officially finishing work in the engine bay  I'll just have to put the fuses on the battery terminal to give the rear end powah. The say was rounding out and I was only working in my drive way so I called it a day, the woman was getting antsy kept interrupting me. 

I'll finish it tomorrow hopefully I can get to my Buddy's to work on it but yet to be seen. 
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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Finished up on the battery Today. Don't really like the T distribution block, I'll probobky change it out. Doesn't sit well. 



















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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Put the back end back together today. Turned out to be a huge pain in my ass, the panels didn't fit right, than the backseat didn't fit right I accualy dremaled a 1/4" off the flange for the back seat, it had a piece of plastic that sat against the corner panel after it bolted down. I cross threaded two bolts trying to get it together. But theirs 7 bolts and I fixed 1 of the two, just a huge pain. Then I had the corner panel together scrwwed and found the new subwoofer flange sat out to far and pushed and kept popping out the one panel. 

I cut the corner panels to fit the wires through, I should of just came out under the rear seat. -_- now that I'm done and everything, I thought oh yeah duh. But oh well I like how it came out in the end took me the better part of 3 hours. 






















































Finily! 6 months without my back seat proved to be a huge pain in the ass. Though it did give me lots of room. Once I build the amp rack and new storage rack for the rear end under the board, I'll also be making a new one out of some plywood or something more structural with hinges instead of the plastic that will eventually break on the stock board












This is what's left in the pile of gear, the next thing is to build an amp rack. 









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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

re working some things. gonna ditch my plan to take the digital signal,
and just use the stock amp and processing, feed that into a LOC, and than into my zapco, mostly because I already have it. but i figure i can get more control out of the system this way, i could just use the passive crossovers and run everything off the 6 channels easily. but i had already planned on processing so, processing the processed sound? not sure how it will pass through i might end up returning everything on the EQ curve coming out of the stock amp. 

i read the LOC sums the channels, is that going to neutralize the T\A done by the stock amp? and how is the processor going to take that ? is it going to pass it through can i set it to pass through and jsut cross over for the tweeters :\ i need to start digging into this software. 

so I have to run 4 new channels of RCA's to the trunk from the stock amp location, and I need to run 2 more pairs to the rear doors to bi-amp the passive crossover off the SQ4070 like i had planned originally. but forgot when i was running wires on the foundation so i need to tear up the whole car. also need to run new wires to the dash from the rear because i thought i could tie into stock tweeter wires at stock amp but i never checked to confirm the harness and they dont send out tweeter only wires to the stock amp :| oops. 














I wanna mount the LOC above the stock amp under the front passenger seat like another membeer did for his amps\processor in a kia soul build he did. just using some thread rod and some aluminum tubing, it'll pretty easy just like he did it and i have plenty of room these seats sit up really high.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Damn projects been in hold so long I'm worried I'll be able to get back into it. But getting final contract for house and the loans almost done so hopefully another 2 weeks, I've begun to order some misc parts I'll need to finish up. Below is the harness I'll need to put kntk the amp, I'm doing this with no splicing. 

I found the pins that slide in the molex connector on a kia forum so I can put new wires in, I'm hoping I can get the zapco mounted close enough to the stock amp so the wires coming out the zapco molex will be lined into the molex of the stock amp with out a single solder joint. 

I'm gonna put a 1/4"/ aluminum pan mounted on threaded rods under the struts of the passenger seat much like the other member did except I'll be using a plate instead of tubing. 
Some other parts I need to order - some molis because for whatever reason they put the center channel output on the input molex of the stock amp when it could of easily gone on the output molex with the rest of the speaker outputs. :/ idk why they did this, maybe I'll be able to slide out the pins and avoid the moli splice.























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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

It's been a journey. I've got all the equipment at my new house I'm almost done with the house than the car very soon! Battery died in it so I decided to put a nice high performance battery in. My machanic picked it up for me for a discount on his account. Anyways 200$ for 710 CCA and 900 cranking. It's a power house and smaller than stock. Guess those yellowtops aren't what they used to be they wouldn't even sell me one to many returns on them they dropped them.

Had to rout some things the terminals didn't line up the old ones. Anyways hoping to get this ball rolling by New year's.  Next summer I might just hit a show if I get it tuned I'll probobly just take it to a shop to fine tune and I'll micro tune it down to my preferences from their. 
















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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

The kia is parked in the grass on blocks and shall remain till I FINILY finish this 2 year project! Things have changed souch I wanna go over my gear and see if theirs anything different I can be doing as far as tapping into the stock stereo


Has anything come out that can take the CAN bus's controls and decode logic 7 into a processor yet? That was my biggest problem with this car I LOVE the stereo features. And the HVAC controller are in the stock headunit, whitch is awesome. Built in music storage, 20gb or something, capacitive touchscreen. Good gps. I WILL not touch that it stays

Anyways the house is finily settled into, everything's painted. The home theater project is done  so it's starting to get warm tomorrow's the first warm day of the season so I'm gonna tear some things down figure out what I want to do next. Thinking the front door is my next biggest hurdle. Still can't figure out how to fit the new speaker wires down the sleeve because the stock wire harness is so large on the driver side( the passenger side is easy) and once the speakers are installed I'll work on the amp and processor. The processor will beounted under the passenger seat where the stock amp is off of threaded rods(seen on shelf of gear) and RCA's will be run to the spare tire well where the crossovers, and the mmats amps will be mounted.

















edit :
was looking at this JL twk 88 awhile back while i was on break from the build i forgot about it just found it again. i see it takes a digital input would this decode logic 7 and the volume controls from the stock deck? im just not sure if it;'ll work :\ 
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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

so i had no idea where i was on this projecxt ive been going through my parts seeing what i did rereading my build log (good reason to keep one folks)i also keep a private collection of photos :fatigue:

anyways ive almost got a game plan ive changed things once again, now no LOC, just going directly into the z8 found out it does take line level inputs just through the rca's odd setup but yes. anyways, i took apart my mmatts oldschool amp just to make sure nothing was burnt out. looks great  




























the disdtrobution block for my setup. hard to find a ground with a built in fused block all in one these days idk why but i picked this up somwhere in my collecting.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

:mean:I lost the keys to my 660gti's and I left it locked.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

been tinkering. picked up a fix 82 to handle my line conversions. than to a dsp. for now an ms-8 because i just wanna be able to jam out once i get this build done. than i'll eventually pick up a more modern dsp. ill probobly try out the zapco i have eventually. as its just been sitting around. well most this stuff has, till now!  i got door done, gatta do the passenegr side rear, than the 2 frontas dn the tweeters and all the speakers are in. but the tweeters are presenting quite the chalange im not really sure how to mount these :\ i feel my mind was more adaptable when i was younger now i look at things like **** how am i gonna make that work lol been a 4 year project now but we'll get their some day! this summer looks promising, the work left isnt much. its just findingt he motivation to tear my car apart is hard to come by these days, i had to undo the battery terminals i added a few years back as they some reason were causing charging issues once i switched them back and charged my battery fully no more problems. so ive even reverter some of the upgrades i did haha but one of my next big upgrads is an alt.but thats in the pipe. for now, ive prewired the fix 82 with a harness to the amp so its pretty much plug and play, gonna tap the power for the stock amp for the fix 82 i think that shouldnt hurt anything. thinking if anything i'll need to run a power line. i can ground if anywhere really.


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## cajun_duck (Nov 11, 2008)

If you don't mind me asking you a question, how much air space do you think is in that sub cavity? My wife has a Soul with the sub option, but she uses her cargo area. I was going to build a box under the floor, but then you won't be able to get to the spare. Sorry for thread jacking.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

cajun_duck said:


> If you don't mind me asking you a question, how much air space do you think is in that sub cavity? My wife has a Soul with the sub option, but she uses her cargo area. I was going to build a box under the floor, but then you won't be able to get to the spare. Sorry for thread jacking.


nah not at all thats what these forums are for! it was awhile ago i did that part of the project but i'd say from like .8 to 1.2 CF and is by no means sealed :\ i did my best to seal up mine. im probobly going to tear into it again and see what else i can before this projects over lol


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## cajun_duck (Nov 11, 2008)

eviling said:


> nah not at all thats what these forums are for! it was awhile ago i did that part of the project but i'd say from like .8 to 1.2 CF and is by no means sealed :\ i did my best to seal up mine. im probobly going to tear into it again and see what else i can before this projects over lol


Thank you


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