# Mrs Obvious' 2009 Corolla build log



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

After years of monkeying around with my own cars, it's about time to do a system for Mrs Obvious. 


She currently has a 2009 Toyota Corolla and the stock source unit has been giving her problems. Sometimes it doesn't recognize her ipod aux source, sometimes it doesn't turn on, etc. I decided I would start stockpiling some items to do a "surprise" build for her. It started off as a very basic radio and maybe replacement speakers, but has blown out of proportion just as you'd expect a true SQ junkie to do. :facepalm:

Here is the current equipment list:

*Source:* Alpine w505 double din
*Processor:* Alpine H701
*Amplifiers:* 
Diamond Audio D7104 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] bridged
D7056 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] bridged
*Tweeter:* Scanspeak D3004/6020-00 https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...luminator-d3004/6020-00-tweeter-textile-dome/
*Midrange:* Scanspeak 10F/8414G-10 https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...canspeak-discovery-10f/8414g-10-4-full-range/
*Woofer:* Stereo Integrity TM65 TM65 6.5″ Woofer | Stereo Integrity
*Subwoofer:* Stereo Integrity SI BM mkIV BM mk IV 12″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity

*Accessories/Installation:* 
Stinger SCBM150 150amp marine grade circuit breaker http://stinger-acc.ru/img/origs/489.jpg
Stinger SHD821 Power distribution http://images.sc1.netdna-cdn.com/D/Fused-SHD821-detailed-image-1.jpg
Stinger SHD21 Ground distribution http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/catalog/shd21c_1467_detail.jpg
Stinger SI823 RCA cables http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51-TQcKoIXL._SX522_.jpg
1/0awg ofc copper power/ground wiring from WeldingSupply.com
Alpine KWE-610A Optical cable http://www.caraudio-store.de/images/products/alpine_kwe-610a.jpg
Monoprice CL2 ofc speaker wire Speaker Wires - Monoprice.com
SoundDeadenerShowdown SDS CLD tiles Products | Sound Deadener Showdown
SoundDeadenerShowdown SDS Butyl Rope Products | Sound Deadener Showdown





I chose to go with the alpine combo since it is pretty reasonably priced on the used market and allows for some very powerful dsp on a budget. The w505 will provide some good modern features that the stock unit lacks and will offer a great starting base for a great sq system. The w505 will be connected to the dsp via the Alpine KWE-610A digital optical cable and the Ai-Net cable. I use these in my D800/H800 setup and there is zero noise.

For those that don't know much about the Diamond Audio D7 amplifiers, they were originally a design produced by Esoteric Audio. They are extraordinarily high quality class A/B amplifiers which are much more rare to find these days. Big, bold and badass. Back when I did the amplifier blind tests, Mrs Obvious commented on how much she loved the look of the D7's better than any of the others, so hopefully she'll be happy seeing these in her car.

The Scanspeak drivers are very interesting. The Scan 10f/8414g is listed as a "full range" but will be used as a midrange in this application and should excel in that department. It has very flat response from 200hz to about 4Khz and has very attractive mounting dimensions as well. The Scan D3004/6020-00 Illuminator is a 1" tweeter in a compact housing with under 2.5" outer diameter and the sealed back cup keeps this under 1" in mounting depth as well. It has low distortion and good sensitivity as well.

The Stereo Integrity TM65 is a very exciting new woofer from Nick which boasts some impressive performance, especially for the price. The TM65 is a true 6.5" mid which has a super shallow 2.29" mounting depth, yet has a whopping 9mm one-way linear xmax. It is a low distortion design and should make for an excellent midbass in the bottom of this 3-way front.

The Stereo Integrity SI BM mkIV is a shallow mount design 12" subwoofer with excellent low frequency extension and low distortion all with a miniscule airspace requirement. It's pretty impressive what these things can do in a 0.5cuft enclosure.



With all of that introduction done, the plan is to mount the midranges in the a pillars, tweeters in the sail panels and the woofers in the stock door locations. UNLESS I can somehow manage to squeeze the mids into the sail panels which would be pretty sweet as well.  The amps and sub will be located in the trunk and will be hidden with some cutout panels to keep the trunk looking stock. 

My hope is to be able to have Mrs Obvious come along to some GTGs and competitions to have some fun with me. I'm waiting on a few pieces to arrive before any construction happens, but I did order some replacement plastics to work on. I want to have most of this measured out and prepped to go in in a hurry. I'll probably try to steal her car for a day or two when she is away to get the install done so fiberglassing of pillars and sails should be done outside the car in advance to save me time. Same with the Sub box and amplifier rack.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Tuning in.

You are gonna stick her with those old crappy D7's? Who likes Diamond Audio anyways?


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

subed,

Interested to hear how you like the ScanSpeak mid, I may try them myself.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Lol, Steve you should have contacted me I would have given you gear to toss in to really make her enjoy car audio.


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## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

sub'd


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Notloudenuf said:


> Tuning in.
> 
> You are gonna stick her with those old crappy D7's? Who likes Diamond Audio anyways?



Hah! :laugh:

I know...the nerve of me. :surprised:


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Coppertone said:


> Lol, Steve you should have contacted me I would have given you gear to toss in to really make her enjoy car audio.



Thanks Ben. Well the sub part of this build may be supplied by you 

I'm actually really interested to check out this pairing of the scan drivers and the Si TM65. I think it has excellent potential (on paper) and could be damn good. The Diamond amps are certainly a cut above much of what is out there on the market as well so they should make a really nice addition to the system. Plus they already had the WAF from the amp tests a while back so I think those should go over well.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You are welcomed to come by today and grab the SI sub that you need.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Coppertone said:


> You are welcomed to come by today and grab the SI sub that you need.


Thanks my friend. Next time I stop down to help out with your equipment


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## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

Sub'd


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Also in for the ride. Pretty soon, she'll take over this build log.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

You know, as long as I've been on here, I don't think I've ever heard mention of Mrs. Obvious. Hope she enjoys it. lol

In for pics. haha

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

papasin said:


> Also in for the ride. Pretty soon, she'll take over this build log.


Lets hope so


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> You know, as long as I've been on here, I don't think I've ever heard mention of Mrs. Obvious.


I think she prefers Tennille


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I lol'd.

(Strangely, I think my mind caught it before I even finished reading it. hahaha)


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> You know, as long as I've been on here, I don't think I've ever heard mention of Mrs. Obvious. Hope she enjoys it. lol
> 
> In for pics. haha
> 
> Jay


She's my best kept secret 

I hope she enjoys it as well. She's not a huge stereo fan like me, but I think she'll enjoy the upgrade.

You know me, there will be pics aplenty!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Just waiting on a few install bits to arrive to get started on this. I might get the Alpine DD installed soon and let her rock that for a bit on the stock speakers while I'm waiting on the SI TM65's. I need to measure up the trunk on the sneak so I can start building out the amp rack/sub enclosure. This will let me just drop it in and connect it up.

In the meantime, if anyone has some hookups on a pair of stock plastic A pillars for this car, let me know. If they come out of a wreck/junker, even better. They are a pillar plastics from a 2009-2012 Toyota corolla. Color doesn't matter.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

This really sounds promising Steve, and I'm sure even the addition of the the Alpine dd will make her day.


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

captainobvious said:


> Just waiting on a few install bits to arrive to get started on this. I might get the Alpine DD installed soon and let her rock that for a bit on the stock speakers while I'm waiting on the SI TM65's. I need to measure up the trunk on the sneak so I can start building out the amp rack/sub enclosure. This will let me just drop it in and connect it up.
> 
> In the meantime, if anyone has some hookups on a pair of stock plastic A pillars for this car, let me know. If they come out of a wreck/junker, even better. They are a pillar plastics from a 2009-2012 Toyota corolla. Color doesn't matter.


Check your local pick and pulls. Usually they won't have a lot of "newer" cars there, but I picked up my pillars for my truck for less than $20. I just checked my local one for you and didn't see anything past a 2001 corolla though.

I'll be tuned in to this build as well. I know it will turn out great considering what you have done with your car.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thank you, much appreciated. I called my local one as well and they dont have anything that new unfortunately. 

I can always just modify the stock ones and then swap out down the road if needed...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Coppertone said:


> This really sounds promising Steve, and I'm sure even the addition of the the Alpine dd will make her day.



Thanks Ben. I'm sure that will be a big upgrade in and of itself for her. The stock unit works when it wants to and the aux in for her iPhone is wacky too. :blush:


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

That might be the best option. Since down the road, they will probably be easier to find. Just for giggles, did you get a quote from a dealer? I'm sure it's outrageous but just wondering.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Yeah, the dealer is looking for nearly $160 for the pair. I believe the ones for my Mazda were about $50...shipped. Uggg


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

$160.00 for the pair what are they made from, Dolly Partons's twins ? Eeek.


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

That's steep! Hopefully you'll find something!


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## AccordUno (Aug 7, 2009)

Sub to see what you do with the amps..


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## OSN (Nov 19, 2008)

Good luck with the winter build


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You are always welcomed to use either one of my garages.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks Ben


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

So I finally got started on the trunk work this weekend. It's tough to get measurements and plan things as a surprise...jeez.

I started the construction of the sub box for the rear. The design I have in mind is to have the sub front firing behind the rear seats. The back of the box would attach to the amp rack panel which would be mounted to display the amps and wiring when the trunk is opened. Everything would be concealed with a cover panel with a cutout. I didn't get pics of the box construction yet, but here's a shot I sketched up to use as reference for the construction of everything.




The box will have its own back wall (all sides and walls are 3/4" birch ply) and that back wall will attach to the back of the amp rack panel with 1/4-20 threaded inserts and stainless screws. It should be quite solid when complete. The amp rack will house the pair of Mosconi AS200.4's, an Alpine H701 dsp, power and ground distribution and a terminal block for speaker and remote connections. The side walls of the amp rack will have neo magnets countersunk into the surface where it will meet the cover panel- which will also have neo magnets countersunk. This layout should take up the least space allowing her to still utilize most of the trunk space, all while having a cleanly laid out presentation that should look good with the cover removed. I'm unsure whether or not I'll be integrating any LEDs, but that's a possibility as well.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Slight layout change. Just updating here to keep track.




This layout shows the new amplifiers (JL XD1000/1v2 and JL XD800/8v2) presented vertically with the power and ground distribution to the left and speaker/remote terminal blocks to the left. This will allow me to build the whole backboard and have it wired up, only requiring the connections of the main power/ground and speaker runs to the backboard. This is a much easier install method as you don't have to do all of the tedious back breaking wiring _*inside *_the car. It can be prepped on the bench and then installed and connected up.

The other change is the back of the sub enclosure has some standoff blocks with 2 channels. These will be to route the wiring under the amp backboard cleanly. I had originally though about simply routing out a pair of access holes in front of the amps connections, but I think I may just do them under the amps, and use a 1/2" or so standoff for the mounts so the amps are "floating" and the wiring comes from underneath the amps making an extra clean look. 
Lastly, the DSP will be mounted to the side of the sub enclosure, hidden behind the amp backboard. It's not in the prettiest of cosmetic condition, and I shouldn't need to access it so it's better of hidden.


Anything I'm forgetting?


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

Steve, what dsp are you using for this build?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

BlackHHR said:


> Steve, what dsp are you using for this build?


It's the Alpine H701. I bought one used a while back. Would prefer an H800 obviously, but they're quite a bit pricier and I'm already spending a lot on this build. :blush:


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

Subded


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

Steve, if you need anything give me a call. We have access to hush mat, wire management, wire and the installation hardware. 
See you soon.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

BlackHHR said:


> Steve, if you need anything give me a call. We have access to hush mat, wire management, wire and the installation hardware.
> See you soon.



Thanks Greg. I think I'm good on speaker wire and the main power wire run (1/0). I have one box of CLD tiles, which may or may not be enough to do the car. And I'm not sure if I have 4awg for the distribution blocks to the amps, so I have to double check that. Will let you know if I need any pieces. 


Thanks!


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

I have a box of drops from 24"- 36" in 4 gauge and 0. Just let me know if you need some wire and I will ship it to you. Just cover shipping and it is yours. 
Greg


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A few pics. Sub box is cut and glued/clamped up. After that, I lined the inside edged with silicone, installed two steel plates and lined with sound deadening CLD. The back of the box will connect the back of the amp rack board via threaded inserts and 1/4-20 screws. The steel plates are for extra reinforcement.


Got the layout transferred to the amp backboard














The box is made of 3/4" hardwood ply. It was glued/clamped up, then when it was dry, I lined all the inside edges with silicone. I followed that up with lining it in CLD. Got the corners as well (not pictured) and then lined it with 3M Thinsulate Acoustic to dampen the rear wave. 

The steel plates you can see in the picture above of the interior of the box, under the CLD. There are 2 holes drilled in each one. These line up with the 1/4-20 threaded inserts in the amp backboard. Some 1/4-20 stainless hardware will join these two pieces together, yet allow it to be modular in case something needs to be removed or changed down the line. It also allows me to build in in pieces outside of the vehicle and then assemble only a few items inside the car to save my back 

I'm just waiting on several deliveries for the parts to keep moving along. After the trunk parts are complete, the next step is to get in the car when she's not around, to position, remove, then glass up the a-pillars and sail panels. The sails will be easy since I have spares. I haven't acquired spare a pillar plastics yet though, so that could be tricky. If anyone is able to locate some 2009-2012 corolla a-pillar plastics, please let me know.

Thanks


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

That box looks amazing love the choice in lumber.


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## sierrarider (Jul 28, 2010)

Sub'd


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks!



Received some packages today 



Also got the t nuts installed on the sub baffle and installed some on the side of the box for the mounting of the dsp. Marked up the backboard for the locations of everything. Once some of the hardware arrives, I can finish up the backboard.

Box with Thinsulate acoustic


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

I have been waiting for some one to do a xd1000/1 and 800/8 build.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

audio+civic said:


> I have been waiting for some one to do a xd1000/1 and 800/8 build.



Well hopefully it won't let you down 

I'm going to try to increase the skill with techniques I use in some of the fabrication here. Probably not advanced for the average installer, but certainly pushing the limits of what I've done in the past.


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Looks very nice, Captain.


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## plushterry (Jan 22, 2015)

So far so good! Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Weeeehhhehehehell Allllllrighty then!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

In one of your illustrations it said Mosconi on the amps. I know you were switching to JL HD's in your car, so I figured she was getting the "hand-me-downs," but what prompted the change to the XD's? I was never happy with the sound of the V1's, and had little hope for the V2's when a customer brought me some to install in his Caddy, but I was pleasantly surprised. Should be a good choice, and the on-top controls will be nice for tuning. 

Jay


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> In one of your illustrations it said Mosconi on the amps. I know you were switching to JL HD's in your car, so I figured she was getting the "hand-me-downs," but what prompted the change to the XD's? I was never happy with the sound of the V1's, and had little hope for the V2's when a customer brought me some to install in his Caddy, but I was pleasantly surprised. Should be a good choice, and the on-top controls will be nice for tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> Jay



Did you just comment on the "sound" of amps, to Steve of all people? Oh boy, you are in for it now!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> In one of your illustrations it said Mosconi on the amps. I know you were switching to JL HD's in your car, so I figured she was getting the "hand-me-downs," but what prompted the change to the XD's? I was never happy with the sound of the V1's, and had little hope for the V2's when a customer brought me some to install in his Caddy, but I was pleasantly surprised. Should be a good choice, and the on-top controls will be nice for tuning.
> 
> Jay


First I've read any differences between V1 and V2 XD's at all actually. Often wondered but hadn't researched what changed.

Edit: Found this



> The XDv2 amplifiers differ from their predecessors in that they offer the convenience of automatic turn-on (signal or DC-offset sensing), making them easier to integrate with OEM systems. JL Audio has also upgraded the input section to have equal capabilities as the company’s flagship HD amplifiers, accepting a wide range of input signals, from line-level all the way to high-power speaker level signals (with a dual-range switch). The final tweak is an improved remote level circuit, with more linear behavior.


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Received some packages today


Glad that worked out for both cars. 
Greg


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

plushterry said:


> So far so good! Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one



Thanks!



JayinMI said:


> In one of your illustrations it said Mosconi on the amps. I know you were switching to JL HD's in your car, so I figured she was getting the "hand-me-downs," but what prompted the change to the XD's? I was never happy with the sound of the V1's, and had little hope for the V2's when a customer brought me some to install in his Caddy, but I was pleasantly surprised. Should be a good choice, and the on-top controls will be nice for tuning.
> 
> Jay


Thanks Jay- I had planned to use the Mosconi's, but they were too big to make it work and look the way I wanted. There is limited height in the trunk for the wall thanks to the seatbelt spindle boxes mounted under the rear deck. This meant that I couldnt mount the amps horizontally unless one was on top of the other (sacrificing more trunk space and looking worse) and I couldn't do them side by side because of their length. The XDs allow me to position them vertically, leaving room on the sides for the wiring distribution and giving (imho) the cleanest look. As a side bonus, they also will be more efficient on the electrical system which I'm sure is not exactly stellar in these Corolla's. Yeah, the top mount controls is something I really like in an amp design. So much easier for installation and tuning/tweaking.



papasin said:


> Did you just comment on the "sound" of amps, to Steve of all people? Oh boy, you are in for it now!


Hah! I have my own opinion on it after learning for myself by doing testing so it was eye opening for me. I choose car audio amps now based on a bunch of other factors, unrelated to their "sound" as I think that's far more a product of everything else in the install and tuning. 




BlackHHR said:


> Glad that worked out for both cars.
> Greg


Thanks Greg- so am I! I had some experience with the XD600/6 and liked them. Same with the HDs- they are fantastic amps. Both have plenty of power in a small footprint and are bullet-proof reliable. They also are backed by a company with stellar customer service- just like my experience has been with Hybrid Audio. I'm in good hands with both.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

You'll certainly appreciate I imagine all the connections on one side, and the easily accessed top-plate controls. The "little" things many, including myself, don't think about when amp shopping. Otherwise I'd have sprung for the XD's. Diff-balanced inputs also. I harp all over that to a fault, but it's kinda a biggie IMHO.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I agree Babs. When I'm shopping for amplifiers, the "sound" of the amp is not a factor on the list, so long as it is not a bad design with a high noise floor.

Things that carry importance (for me):

-Price
-Footprint (size)
-Power output
-Aesthetics
-Quality
-Reliability
-Manufacturer Support/Customer Service


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> I agree Babs. When I'm shopping for amplifiers, the "sound" of the amp is not a factor on the list, so long as it is not a bad design with a high noise floor.
> 
> Things that carry importance (for me):
> 
> ...


Yep.. I lump the afforementioned stuff with connector-quality, connections on one side, inputs, build-quality, component-quality, etc etc etc all up under that "quality" section. I think the XD's bring it, from all I've read in about all those catagories. 

I'm afraid I'll be doing a more baddasser install in my truck now with either a 700/5 or a set of these XD's, than the 'mid-fi' NVX class-D's in my car. Might even move my DSP over and go simple 80PRS in car again, so I can go 3way in the taco with them inviting sail panels.  Sorry hijack over.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Just a small update. (That's what most are since I only get so much time to work on this)

I got the subwoofer enclosure carpeted and the DSP mounted. You'll notice I used steel standoffs, washers and T-nits to secure the DSP to the side of the box. Here's the reasoning- Since she has an Alpine w505 in this vehicle, a RUX controller is not necessary. In addition, the H701 isn't in the nicest cosmetic condition so it will remian mostly hidden (not displayed on the amp backboard). To keep it easily accessible though, I figured mounting it to the side of the sub box would keep it secure and allow me access to it should I need to, by folding down the rear seat. The dsp is mounted with standoffs to allow the RCAs and other wiring to pass underneath it for clean routing and clearance.





I like to use higher quality allen/hex head hardware.



Plenty of clearance now for all the cables, most importantly the digital optical which has a bend radius limit and can be fragile.

*


*


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Another small update-

I want this to be a very clean wiring job (as I usually try to do) so I got in the grommets I ordered and measured, marked and drilled the holes in the amp backboard for them.

It's always a good idea to lay your equipment on the backboard to see how things will line up and look visually and to make sure you're giving yourself enough clearance for the wiring to route through the panel and into the connection points without putting any unneccesary stress on the cables. The grommets not only make for a cleaner look, but they also protect that cables with a smoother, rounder edge than a basic drilled hole. Alternatively, you could drill and then do a chamfer or roundover on the holes, but you'd need a tiny bit with the small fixed brass guide instead of a bearing.


Holes drilled





A few grommets snapped in to give you an idea of the look








And lastly, I'm using a neon pink techflex with black heatshrink tubing. I got in two colors of carbon fiber style vinyl. One in white and one in black. I cut a small sample piece and set it up to show the color difference. Looking for some feedback on which you prefer. One thing I will mention is that the black is much easier to see the CF pattern in all lighting, whereas the white is difficult to see the pattern unless you're in specific light. You'll see what I mean in the pics. I kind of like the mix of the white AND black vinyl. Would be cool if I figured out a way to integrate both. I might have to think on that some.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I like the white Steve and am sure that you will find a lighting situation that will allow it to shine.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I don't know if I like one over the other, honestly. They both look good. I like the demo piece where it's split and you did both. I'd love to see you work it in.

What color is the car?

Jay


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm digging the white. That looks really good. Like the contrast


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## bonesmcgraw (Jan 7, 2013)

I really like the white. It's not completely obvious it's carbon fiber. It's one of those things you would have to take a double look at to notice (depending on light). I like it when you look at a build and notice something different every time.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks fellas!




JayinMI said:


> I don't know if I like one over the other, honestly. They both look good. I like the demo piece where it's split and you did both. I'd love to see you work it in.
> 
> What color is the car?
> 
> Jay


The car is black, with a tan interior. The trunk however is the standard charcoal grey carpeting.

I agree- it would be nice to get a mix of both to get the contrast. Both colors seem to work well with the pink.



Coppertone said:


> I like the white Steve and am sure that you will find a lighting situation that will allow it to shine.





Beckerson1 said:


> I'm digging the white. That looks really good. Like the contrast





bonesmcgraw said:


> I really like the white. It's not completely obvious it's carbon fiber. It's one of those things you would have to take a double look at to notice (depending on light). I like it when you look at a build and notice something different every time.


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## plushterry (Jan 22, 2015)

Man the black pink white is a bit girly but it goes well!


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

Steve it looks like progress is moving right along.


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## xXTX_ChallengerXx (Oct 8, 2012)

I love the pink on white. Where did you order your vinyl from?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

dang! you put more effort in to your wife's install than most put in to their own! she's a lucky chick... I wish I were her. Wait, what?... uhmmmmm.....


Moving on....

I'm digging the XD choice. I know a lot of folks using them and they love them (Cook being one). I used the 6 channel in my wife's old civic for a while and was surprised at how much output her system had considering the power ratings were lower than my HDs. Very nice amps for sure. 

Any chance you'll tow this car behind yours down to Jason's meet in April? LOL!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

xXTX_ChallengerXx said:


> I love the pink on white. Where did you order your vinyl from?


Amazon actually. It's quite cheap there.



BlackHHR said:


> Steve it looks like progress is moving right along.



Thanks Greg. Now that it's not a secret anymore, I should be able to make more progress.  And have a helper!




ErinH said:


> dang! you put more effort in to your wife's install than most put in to their own! she's a lucky chick... I wish I were her. Wait, what?... uhmmmmm.....
> 
> 
> Moving on....
> ...


Yeah, they really are nice amps. I'd love to have her come down some time. We'd realistically probably just choose one vehicle to bring, or possibly alternate on trips.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I just mocked this up to get some ideas going. I want to push my abilities on this one and try to do something more elaborate to build skills. Let me explain what you're looking at. This is what would cover the amplifier rack. The center cutout portion will allow the amplifiers to be displayed. I'm thinking a rabbeted edge on the back of the main black piece to sink in some clear plexi ( I already have some 3/16" plexi laying around) to cover the amplifier cutout section. Everything in black goes on the very top, with some shaped edges (chamfered most likely), including those sweeping lines. The shaded portion, as well as the white portions under the JL logo and the HAT logo would be on 1/4" sunken into the back of the black panel rabbeted in and covered in a different material. The black panel edges would be chamfered down toward the lower panels for some depth and interest. 

I could then route out a large rectangle in the top of the main black piece which could hold a very top cover piece trimmed in carpet. The entire inside portion of the large contoured black piece would be trimmed in vinyl and the outer portion of that contoured black piece would be trimmed in carpet. This would make the outside edging and the very top cover piece carpet matching the trunk for a very stealth look when opened, then when you pop off the rectangular cover, you'd see the nice layout underneath.


thoughts?


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

Yep, liking that a lot.


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

sub'd


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

We had a couple hours to do some work this weekend so we got a little done on the amp rack.


We wrapped the backboard in black carbon vinyl:







Michelle wrapped the side panels in white carbon vinyl:







Next, she secured the amplifiers, distribution blocks and the terminal blocks with stainless hex screws into the already installed threaded inserts.








After that, she pressed in the snap bushings/grommets into the backboard.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Checking the color out 











Ok, then we started to get some of the initial wiring started on the amp rack.











That's where were at right now. We'll probably get the rest of the wiring on the amp rack finished up this week if time allows. We chose the white for the sidewalls because we are installing some LED lighting to highlight the amp rack and the white walls should help reflect more light toward the equipment. Based on the layout design a few posts above, you probably won't actually see the white wall portion anyway.


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

That white looks amazing I like that a lot. You two do good work.


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

Wow man, that looks really nice and clean. 

Always nice see the Mrs. Putting in work also.


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

I can't even get my wife to help me look for a GD screwdriver lol


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

ZombieHunter85 said:


> I can't even get my wife to help me look for a GD screwdriver lol


:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Me and the Mrs got a good laugh out of that


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## crea_78 (Jan 6, 2014)

The amp rack looks great Steve and I love the wire management... so clean!!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

crea_78 said:


> The amp rack looks great Steve and I love the wire management... so clean!!


Thanks! 

I really want to push myself on this one to step my game up a bit. Makes it all worth it when I know it's going to be for her


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

I thought this was a surprise bro?!?!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Maybe he told her it was a project that he's doing for another vehicle and needed her assistance with.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

One of the other posts I read said (I thought) something to the effect of "now that she knows about it, I've gained a helper." Or something like that.

So I guess he let the cat out of the bag. She probably saw the huge JL order show up and there's no hiding that! lol

Jay


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

^^
I must of missed that post. I wish my wife would help me out in the garage. Sometimes I get my daughter to help for about 15 minutes. Then she's off to do something more interesting. LOL!


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

love the layout! Cant wait to see it wrapped up


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## plushterry (Jan 22, 2015)

very tidy so far


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Old Skewl said:


> I thought this was a surprise bro?!?!


It was going to be, but I decided it would be more fun for both of us to work on it together. Then it's not me alone in my worskhop, it's us spending time together.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

casey said:


> love the layout! Cant wait to see it wrapped up





plushterry said:


> very tidy so far



Thanks fellas.

We got some more of the backboard wiring done. Just a couple more speaker wires to do, attach the LED light strip and then that portion is wrapped up.

Next up after that, we will work on building the cover panels. Michelle bought me a router table for Valentine's Day, so I'm super excited about that. This combined with some new bits and templates on their way should make for a much cleaner finished result.


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

That's awesome in any relationship its great to share hobbies/interests and time together.


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

captainobvious said:


> It was going to be, but I decided it would be more fun for both of us to work on it together. Then it's not me alone in my worskhop, it's us spending time together.


That's awesome. I hope my relationship one day is this close.

Anyways, the amp rack looks absolutely gorgeous. Props.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Well I'll be'a skunk's arm pit, Cap'n! If that ain't'n thee nicest gestur t'wards the Missus!

Just tuning-in to this build and had to read right from the beginnin'. Awesome work, Steve! Very cool that you can work on it together. And you know that you've got the disease when you've already swapped amp choices a few times.  Surprised that more hasn't changed along the way, LOL.  All changes for the right reasons, tho'.

Love your design and layout for the amps & sub in the trunk...should look supa clean when you're finished...already does!

On the main amp rack trim panel in the trunk, what do you think about eliminating the "Hybrid Audio Technologies" _text_, and instead just use the circular HAT Logo centered above the JL Audio logo for better symmetry? Just a thought.

I have to say, with the excellent driver choices you've made, be careful, this install could easily rival the Mazda!  Can't wait until y'all have buttoned it up and put a decent tune on it. Should be spectacular! Props all around. Will be tuned in for more!

Cue "inspiration to get off my @ss and do the same!"


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

bbfoto said:


> Well I'll be'a skunk's arm pit, Cap'n! If that ain't'n thee nicest gestur t'wards the Missus!
> 
> Just tuning-in to this build and had to read right from the beginnin'. Awesome work, Steve! Very cool that you can work on it together. And you know that you've got the disease when you've already swapped amp choices a few times.  Surprised that more hasn't changed along the way, LOL.  All changes for the right reasons, tho'.
> 
> ...



Thanks! Yeah, I had actually thought about doing the HAT logo circular too, but ended up liking the different shape of this a little better when I drew it up. And yeah, this could very well rival the mazda in some respects. I'm excited to get it done so we can listen for ourselves


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Pre-wiring is wrapped up.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Looks nice and tidy as usual, will you be contacting me soon about that item ?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Coppertone said:


> Looks nice and tidy as usual, will you be contacting me soon about that item ?


Thanks Ben! Yeah I need to set aside a day to get over there. Been really busy with work, night classes, league and tournament vball nights, etc. :blush:

We'll have to try to hook up in the next couple of weeks so I can wrap things up for ya


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Anything that I have that you may need, please feel free to....


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Much appreciated Ben, many thanks.


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## danno14 (Sep 1, 2009)

Nice.... Very very nice!


----------



## reithi (Mar 29, 2012)

Wow....very neat and well thought out.

Can't wait to see how it turns out.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Everything is looking awesome, but are those speaker wire strip?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks guys!




Black Rain said:


> Everything is looking awesome, but are those speaker wire strip?


Those are terminal blocks, yes. They allow for setup of the backboard outside of the vehicle and also allow for easier changes.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Ok fellas. Looking for some feedback on what you think looks best. After measuring up and getting an accurate look at the dimensions of the layout, the curved lines simply wouldn't look right on this pice, so I switched them up to angled ones. I think it goes pretty nicely. I marked up the layout on the board last night using some straight edges and some Sonus EVOL tooling. The borders and lines in green tape are all 1" thick lines. The rest of the lines going toward the top I didnt tape in, but you get the idea. Here's the choice... The spacing on the angled lines is different between left and right. Also, in one pic I show the bottom line included and in the other, I don't. So there are 4 total options for the look here. Spacing, and then whether to include the line or not on the bottom. The 1" lines will all be chamfered and in a different material than the open space that they lay on top of. Which option do you think looks best? Left or right? With or without the bottom lines included?

You'll have to turn your screen (or head). Photobucket is screwing up the rotation for some reason. They appear normal when I paste the link, but they show up here as sideways. Sorry.








.


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

2nd one with the thicker spacing gets my vote. Less is more kinda thing I guess


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)




----------



## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I agree with Chit's. The right one.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Agreed.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Cool, thanks guys.


----------



## HTX (Aug 7, 2007)

awesome build so far man, gives me lots of ideas for my upcoming build. Question, would like to hear your personal thoughts and reasoning on going with the monoprice wire. Look at the link and it looks awesome but pricey.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Pricey? I thought it was dirt cheap. If you were comparing it to that copper clad aluminum crap that will turn black in a couple months, maybe. But that's cheap for OFC wire. I mean, 100ft for $32ish of 12ga speaker wire? That's a smokin price.

100 feet of Knu Konceptz KL3 OFC 12-2 wire is $58.50.
And that's not even a _bad_ price.

Jay


----------



## HTX (Aug 7, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> Pricey? I thought it was dirt cheap. If you were comparing it to that copper clad aluminum crap that will turn black in a couple months, maybe. But that's cheap for OFC wire. I mean, 100ft for $32ish of 12ga speaker wire? That's a smokin price.
> 
> 100 feet of Knu Konceptz KL3 OFC 12-2 wire is $58.50.
> And that's not even a _bad_ price.
> ...


Ahh, my mistake. I assumed he was going for the hi-fi speaker cables with the brass connectors for $60 for 15 ft. Then I saw your post and went back and saw he put he's getting 100ft of their ofc wire instead . Lol then I realized those hi-fi wires had banana plugs on them as well lol


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

HTX said:


> awesome build so far man, gives me lots of ideas for my upcoming build. Question, would like to hear your personal thoughts and reasoning on going with the monoprice wire. Look at the link and it looks awesome but pricey.


Yeah, Monoprice's wire is some of the cheapest you can find. However, the quality is very good.

I recommend the CL2 stuff with the white jacket. It's good quality OFC copper.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Started on the amp rack cover panel piece today since it was actually warm enough to be outside to do some routing.

Awesome 1/4" spiral flush trim bit from Joey of 12vtools.



Some Sonus EVOL template kit pieces and my new router table, compliments of the lovely Lady Obvious. 




Got the shapes rough cut close to the lines so I can then go back and get them precise with template guides and flush trim bits.










I got about 1/2 of the panel done today (I move slowwwwwly  ) 
The next warm day I get, I'll finish the flush trimming and then hit it with the chamfer to edge shape it.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Looks awesome, but I see one small issue. When you rough cut your piece, you went to a square corner (90 degrees). When you clean it up with your templates and router bits, those corners would have been left with a slight radius. Since you cut them in a squareish shape, your corners won't be perfect without a lot of extra work, and wrapping them in any type of material will be difficult. I'd suggest doing that piece over again, and using a multi-bearing 1/2 or 3/4" flush trim bit. It will leave you with rounded corners that are a little easier to wrap.

Nice router table. I just got mine together a couple weeks ago and still haven't gotten to use it. But I will, soon. Much better than a piece of 1/2" mdf over a garbage can.

Jay


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

You can continue to use this and get it just where you want it... Then if you choose, you could use it as a template to get a radius in the corner of the new panel. I would suggest using a 3/4" flush trim bit... It will be a little easier to wrap with then the 1/2"... Or like we discussed, you could do it the way you are, chamfer, and flock it... Looks great either way!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Looks awesome, but I see one small issue. When you rough cut your piece, you went to a square corner (90 degrees). When you clean it up with your templates and router bits, those corners would have been left with a slight radius. Since you cut them in a squareish shape, your corners won't be perfect without a lot of extra work, and wrapping them in any type of material will be difficult. I'd suggest doing that piece over again, and using a multi-bearing 1/2 or 3/4" flush trim bit. It will leave you with rounded corners that are a little easier to wrap.
> 
> Nice router table. I just got mine together a couple weeks ago and still haven't gotten to use it. But I will, soon. Much better than a piece of 1/2" mdf over a garbage can.
> 
> Jay




Yeah I see what you mean Jay. I may end up simply painting this instead, or I can use the 1/4" template piece on the bottom to try it with larger radius' in the corners to see if it looks ok.

The router table is a super cheap model you can find here: https://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Table-with-Stand/T10432

I don't think you can find anything else even close to that price for what you get. I'd rather have a high quality router lift/plat combo and make my own table, but this is like half the price so it just makes sense for now.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Making some more sawdust...


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

It came out pretty good. I like the curves on them. Nice and precise.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice work, Steve. Came out great. I like where this is headed.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Dude, don't leave your boners out in the cold on the router table!   Whaaa?...did I just say that? :surprised: Oh, wait...they're inside where it's warm so it's okay. 

Seriously, good work, Steve. This is looking really nice. Congrats on the router table setup, too...so much easier with the right tools.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Black Rain said:


> It came out pretty good. I like the curves on them. Nice and precise.


Thanks Juan. I used a 45 degree chamfer bit with a mini bearing. 



JayinMI said:


> Nice work, Steve. Came out great. I like where this is headed.


Thanks Jay. The plan originally was to have a piece below this that would haouse the logos and plexi, but I decided to simply rabbet the back of this panel to accommodate those pieces. In the picture you'll see a copy piece. This was simply done so that I'd have a template for it.






bbfoto said:


> Dude, don't leave your boners out in the cold on the router table!   Whaaa?...did I just say that? :surprised: Oh, wait...they're inside where it's warm so it's okay.
> 
> Seriously, good work, Steve. This is looking really nice. Congrats on the router table setup, too...so much easier with the right tools.


Thanks- it was a great gift from the wife. You're right, it does make routing MUCH easier.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

steve, steve, steve, that looks like......um..well...a__. HeeHee.ok, Just messing with ya bro. As always. Clean, well thought out and your Mrs.DIH.

OUTSTANDING!!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

AVIDEDTR said:


> steve, steve, steve, that looks like......um..well...a__. HeeHee.ok, Just messing with ya bro. As always. Clean, well thought out and your Mrs.DIH.
> 
> OUTSTANDING!!



lol thanks bud. It should move quicker (the build in general) once the weather gets a little nicer. Right now, I'm limited to working out on the deck when it's above 30 degrees which as you know, hasn't been very often for those of us in the northeast 

There's still a bunch to do. I just need a semi warm day to get the mid and tweeter mounts positioned and set onto their panel and then I can fiberglass those up. Shouldn't take more than a day or two to get those knocked out and ready for finishing since my friend Dave hooked me up with some drop in mounts and press fit inserts. Some pics of those to come a bit later. I was out looking at my mounting options in the vehicle and it's possible to do the mids in the sail panel and tweeters in the pillars...maybe even the mids and tweeters in the sails.
What are your thoughts on the sails vs pillars for them? I can get them further forward with the pillars, but wider using the sails.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Just bring the car and equipment to my house and finish it all here Steve.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

If you were in the neighborhood, I might take you up on that. Tough to manage it though with 90 minutes travel each way plus getting tools out and setup 

Plus, I don't think your wife would be my biggest fan once the smell of fiberglass resin infiltrates the house from the garage


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Rats lol, it seems every time I try and offer the help of my garage there are too many obstacles to overcome lol..


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

My opinion of speaker position is the most important and the most time consuming. For daily, choose what works best. But, if she plans to compete, spend time getting it right.

I like on dash on axis 15% pointing towards headrest.




captainobvious said:


> lol thanks bud. It should move quicker (the build in general) once the weather gets a little nicer. Right now, I'm limited to working out on the deck when it's above 30 degrees which as you know, hasn't been very often for those of us in the northeast
> 
> There's still a bunch to do. I just need a semi warm day to get the mid and tweeter mounts positioned and set onto their panel and then I can fiberglass those up. Shouldn't take more than a day or two to get those knocked out and ready for finishing since my friend Dave hooked me up with some drop in mounts and press fit inserts. Some pics of those to come a bit later. I was out looking at my mounting options in the vehicle and it's possible to do the mids in the sail panel and tweeters in the pillars...maybe even the mids and tweeters in the sails.
> What are your thoughts on the sails vs pillars for them? I can get them further forward with the pillars, but wider using the sails.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Coppertone said:


> Just bring the car and equipment to my house and finish it all here Steve.


What does the SJ stand for in Location? I just assumed it was San Jose. I imagine it would take Steve a little more than 90 mins to get to CA from PA. lol

Jay


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

South Jersey probably


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

AVIDEDTR said:


> My opinion of speaker position is the most important and the most time consuming. For daily, choose what works best. But, if she plans to compete, spend time getting it right.
> 
> I like on dash on axis 15% pointing towards headrest.


Yeah, she will _occasionally _compete. So I have to make it badass.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I routed the edges deeper using a larger Amana bit. Looks much better IMO.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

The board under the beauty panel is the plexiglass piece. To further reduce the depth the build takes away from the trunk, I'm simply adhering the vinyl to the plexi panel in the areas it will show through. 
I used my 1/4" spiral flush trim bit to trim the plexi edges to flush them up with the beauty panel.

Vinyl graphics were supplied by Glenn- Thanks buddy!  If you need any vinyl graphics done, you can find him over on the CarAudioJunkies forum. He's done other work for me in the past too and its great quality.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

The board under the beauty panel is the plexiglass piece. To further reduce the depth the build takes away from the trunk, I'm simply adhering the vinyl to the plexi panel in the areas it will show through. 
I used my 1/4" spiral flush trim bit to trim the plexi edges to flush them up with the beauty panel.

Vinyl graphics were supplied by Glenn- Thanks buddy!  If you need any vinyl graphics done, you can find him over on the CarAudioJunkies forum. He's done other work for me in the past too and its great quality.


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## Butt Hz (Apr 25, 2014)

That's awesome work guys!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

So I actually kind of liked the look of the rough texture and color coat on the panel. I secured the plexiglass panel to the top panel and got a few shots here for you guys.

Let me know what you think.

Also, the rgb LED strip I got was joined wrong at the factory (they must have reversed a section) so it has an unusual split color effect going on with some of the colors. Others are fine. Actually looks kind of interesting. I may keep it and just adjust the positioning so that the separation is centered.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

EDIT: Oh and there will be a cover over the back of the vinyl/plexi so you dont get bleed through of light through the vinyl 

And a few pics of just the texture up close.


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

I hope your wife appreciates this... Looks great!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Looks great Steve, at this rate you'll have it done by the end of March. Just in time to show it off in warm weather.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Like at the end of April.  

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks fellas, much appreciated.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

So today we worked on getting a start on the pillars and sail panels to house the midrange and tweeters. (Lots of pics to follow).
The Corolla has a somewhat large shelf on the upper door where the sail panel is located. Because of this, we saw an opportunity to actually put the midranges there for this build which is something you don't see as often because of the space constraints. We liked the idea of getting the midranges as wide as possible for stage width.

The "shelf" area and a look at the pillars and sails:






Checking the positioning and fit:




The door was masked off first.



Tin foil allows the fiberglass to pull away easier and it also adds an extra layer of protection so I like to use it when I can. A pro tip from Mr Worrell.




Layed up 3 layers of fiberglass for a good strong base.






Trimmed up


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Pillars being cut to allow for the tweeters:





Low temp plastic rings and mounts were fabricated by my friend Dave (TheDavel) and provided for the project. This enabled me to simply secure them into position to prep for shaping and finishing.






Next, the sail piece need to be attached to the sail panel. I'm using black high temp hot glue which creates a pretty strong bond to hold the pieces together before fiberglassing.


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## crea_78 (Jan 6, 2014)

Steve, will you be bringing your wife's car to the meet towards the end of the month, or will it still be a work in progress? Looks great so far ?


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Our butane powered hot glue gun. This thing totally kicks butt. Adtech CB250.








Next, we needed to get a backside for the enclosure of the midrange. I used a piece of paper to trace out the contour and then transferred to a piece of 1/8" for both sides.






However, after cutting them and test fitting, I realized that the curvature of the window glass made this piece not sit flush which could have still looked "ok", but I didn't want to compromise the look of the piece, so...more fiberglassing.






Next we aimed and secured the midrange mounts to the piece.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

And a few more pics to show the pieces out of the car and ready for filler and shaping. That's it for now. I'm hoping to find some time this week to begin that process. We tried to get the pieces as symmetrical as possible.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

wow very cool work man, that amp rack looks ****ing awesome!

im really looking forward to how the sail panels and the a pillars come together!!!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks Andy  I'm really happy with how that trunk piece came out as well. Just need to get it mounted in the trunk and the other cover pieces fabbed up.

My only concern is how the sail panel piece works with the window up/down. I'm thinking a piece of suede or carpet on the backside to allow for smooth movement and a clean look from the outside. The pillars should be a piece of cake as there was plenty of space and that should be a fairly simple build up. 
Yeah, the sails are definitely the difficult piece on this build and hopefully Im able to get them looking great.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

crea_78 said:


> Steve, will you be bringing your wife's car to the meet towards the end of the month, or will it still be a work in progress? Looks great so far ?



Thanks!

I guess the answer is- unsure.:blush:

It will depend on how much we get done. If We're able to get the install nearly complete outside of cosmetics, we may bring Michelle's car. Otherwise, we'll just bring mine.


----------



## reithi (Mar 29, 2012)

Coming along nicely. The positioning of the mids should create good width. 

From your wife's driving position, does the mid on the passenger side obstruct the view to the wing mirror?


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

reithi said:


> Coming along nicely. The positioning of the mids should create good width.
> 
> From your wife's driving position, does the mid on the passenger side obstruct the view to the wing mirror?



Thanks reithi. Good question on the visibility. I tried different angles from her seat position and found that where they are located at now provides the best visibility while still allowing for a good dispersion angle. The fiberglass back wall of those pieces will be trimmed back considerably. I haven't done that yet, but it will be part of the build up process of them as I don't want to remove too much material until I get a good feel for the shape as they progress. Stay tuned...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Very cool build! That amp rack is stunning!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks David!



Starting the build up and shaping of the pillars and sails...


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice work, Steve. Are you doing this concurrently with the Mazda? I don't even feel like I have time to button up small things on 1 car before the GTG and here you are (re)building 2! LOL

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Nice work, Steve. Are you doing this concurrently with the Mazda? I don't even feel like I have time to button up small things on 1 car before the GTG and here you are (re)building 2! LOL
> 
> Jay



:laugh:
I know what you mean, I've been there too. The Mazda is currently on hold (have the JL's sitting in there connected but haven't done more than map out the design with the drafting sketches) as I work on the 'Yota.

Speaking of...

More progress on the pillars and sails. I built these up using pieces of popsicle sticks almost like lathe and coated with bondoglas for strength, then layered up with Rage Gold and sanded with my trusty mouse sander until I got them to this point. I feel like they came out pretty darn close to each other by doing it basically by eye to match them up. Hand made!


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

And the pillars. Same thing, built up with Bondoglas, then Rage Gold and used my mouse sander to shape entirely.


----------



## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So the pillars getting the Tweeters and the sails got the MR?


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## jb4674 (Jan 29, 2015)

You just gained another fan captainobvious. Nice work!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Black Rain said:


> So the pillars getting the Tweeters and the sails got the MR?



Yup 

I think that it should make a considerable difference. We will see...




jb4674 said:


> You just gained another fan captainobvious. Nice work!


That implies I already have fans...sweet!

:laugh:

Thanks!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Lookin damn good Man!


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## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

I remember your Mitsubishi install, you have come along way .
KUDOS


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

captainobvious said:


> And the pillars. Same thing, built up with Bondoglas, then Rage Gold and used my mouse sander to shape entirely.


Nice work, Steve.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well hopefully you both make it out to the GTG. I'm really stoked to demo both cars.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Been going back and forth between L3SEs and L3Pros in a similar location in my car...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

We're both coming, but we're only bringing one of the cars. Yet to be determined. It's too far to take both cars 8 hours each way.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Tow the Corolla with the Mazda, I mean you do have new wheels on the Mazda lol.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

thehatedguy said:


> Been going back and forth between L3SEs and L3Pros in a similar location in my car...


Both are excellent. The L3SE is more versatile, but I find that the L3PRO is the better pure midrange. It's a special driver for sure. You wouldn't go wrong with either though.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Babs said:


> Lookin damn good Man!



Thanks Babs!



abusiveDAD said:


> I remember your Mitsubishi install, you have come along way .
> KUDOS


Thanks. Yeah, I've picked up some better techniques from some skilled people over the last few years and am trying to push myself to do some nicer work and build better and smarter.



RandyJ75 said:


> Nice work, Steve.


Thanks Randy


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Pillars are all but done and wrapped.We decided to use speaker grill cloth as it provided a better match to the factory colors. Again, thanks to super Dave (TheDavel) for the mounting rings and grill inserts. They came out perfect thanks to his preparation on those parts.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Wow, I wouldn't of thought to use grill cloth but they look awesome. I will have to use that idea when I upgrade if it matches.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Both are excellent. The L3SE is more versatile, but I find that the L3PRO is the better pure midrange. It's a special driver for sure. You wouldn't go wrong with either though.


The L3PRO is the dome mid you had in the Mazda at Finals, right? I liked a lot of different things about a lot of different cars, but I think I liked the midrange in your car better than any of the others I heard. It's certainly impressive.



Black Rain said:


> Wow, I wouldn't of thought to use grill cloth but they look awesome. I will have to use that idea when I upgrade if it matches.


Grille cloth is great for that kind of thing. It's stretchy, available in several colors and easy to get. The down side is that you have to be careful with the spray adhesive, it bleeds through easy. 

Best bet is to spray it on the pillar, and wait for a little while, then apply the grille cloth. At least that's what I've found. Occasionally, a second layer will be a good idea. I usually use some CA clue or something on the back side to make sure it doesn't unwrap around the edges.

Looks like the car is coming along really well, Steve. Can't wait to see it done!

Jay


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

Your build is looking awesome.

Great job on the sail panels so far.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> The L3PRO is the dome mid you had in the Mazda at Finals, right? I liked a lot of different things about a lot of different cars, but I think I liked the midrange in your car better than any of the others I heard. It's certainly impressive.


Yep, that's what was in it then (and now)- the L3PRO. Thanks for the kind words. 



JayinMI said:


> Grille cloth is great for that kind of thing. It's stretchy, available in several colors and easy to get. The down side is that you have to be careful with the spray adhesive, it bleeds through easy.
> 
> Best bet is to spray it on the pillar, and wait for a little while, then apply the grille cloth. At least that's what I've found. Occasionally, a second layer will be a good idea. I usually use some CA clue or something on the back side to make sure it doesn't unwrap around the edges.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I agree with you. I know typically you'd spray both pieces so that they have a very good bond when adhering them together, but like you said- with grill cloth, it's too thin to apply an adhesive to the backside of the material without it bleeding through. What I did was to lay up two coats of spray adhesive , then let it sit for a couple minutes before stretching the grill cloth over it. After that I trimmed the backside and applied contact cement to hold the material strong to the back, then used some aluminum tape over the edges for an extra layer of protection. Probably overkill, but I figured, why not. I don't want the material moving and I think it should stay put like this.

I worked on the sail panel pods as well. I got them looking pretty good, but they have some pinholes and such that need to be filled. Wish I had a compressor/hvlp setup and some slick sand right about now...
Jay- Know of any decent spray can high build primers that might be somewhat easy to locate? I'm thinking SEM texture coat in black will look great on these pieces. Just need to smooth them out.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

FunkPnut said:


> Your build is looking awesome.
> 
> Great job on the sail panels so far.


Thanks!

I had "oh-****" moment when I realized I hadn't checked to make sure the speakers fit depth wise. :surprised: Checked today and there was plenty of space. :mean:


We worked pretty hard today on getting wiring in the car. We pulled runs to each of the 6 front speakers as well as the main power wire into the engine bay. Also had to route the ai-net and optical cables to the processor area. Wires are roughed in and ready to connect to the speakers when they go in. We also cut some baffles out of starboard for the midbass drivers. 
It was a longggg day


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Looking Great Steve, keep it up!!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Probably overkill, but I figured, why not. I don't want the material moving and I think it should stay put like this.


I totally understand. Overkill > peeling materials.



captainobvious said:


> Jay- Know of any decent spray can high build primers that might be somewhat easy to locate? I'm thinking SEM texture coat in black will look great on these pieces. Just need to smooth them out.


SEM makes a couple, as I understand it. I haven't used any of it, tho. I usually use SEM Texture coat *as* a high build primer of sorts. I like it because it builds decent, fills small pin holes, is sandable in like 20 minutes, and I have several cans at work. 

So far all of the "high build" primers in a can from Rustoleum or Duplicolor leave me a little disappointed. If anyone makes one that works, I'd bet SEM would be it.

I have a few cheap little paint guns from Harbor Freight floating around and want to try some Slick Sand on the next project that requires something like that.

Jay


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I had "oh-****" moment when I realized I hadn't checked to make sure the speakers fit depth wise. :surprised: Checked today and there was plenty of space. :mean:


As long as you remembered to make sure the windows still went up and down. 

When you did your layup, did you put something between the window and pod? Just to make sure there won't be any issues with scratching the glass or peeling the tint of the window (if it is, or will be tinted).

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Hmmm, maybe I'll try that then. I'll just thin out my filler with some resin to make a thin top coat yo get the larger pinholes and then build a couple layers with the SEM texture for now.

The Slicksand product from Evercoat is awesome. Builds up nicely and sands very easily and smoothly. When you use that stuff anf follow up with SEM Trim Black, it looks like stock pieces. Wonderful product.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Spray can high build primer is a waste...it will never really harden if you use it as high of build as I use it. The texture coat can work like that though.

But how many pin holes are you talking about? If it's more than a few, it might be easier and faster to get some spot putty from a paint supply place and swipe the piece with it. I like the Evercoat Metalglaze...but you will have a lot left over.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I used to have a half gallon of that Evercoat spot putty but I have no idea where it went. It was very similar to Rage Gold, but lighter and thinner.


Here's a few pics of the pinholes and such...


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Those will never fill right with texture coat. You need (IMO) skim them with putty. They still need some sanding as they are pretty wavy...too wavy for me to want to texture coat or vinyl.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Agreed. I'd use a some glaze or just mix up a small batch of filler and finger it into the holes. lightly sand, then go from there. Agreed, those might be a bit much for the texture coat to handle.

Jay


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I was surprised how well SEM High Build Primer filled in all that stuff. Plus shows areas that would need more sanding pretty nicely. Then texture coat really did will. It's making me wanna get to work on my tacoma pillars.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Spray can primer has no catalyst, so it will never really harden...not enough to stay stable when you use thick coats and will eventually shrink.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Agreed fellas. I knew I had some more sanding ahead of me on the pieces. Especially the one. That wavyness actually came from some SEM overspray. I got distracted 

I'll just thin down some Rage Gold and smooth it on and sand with high grit until they are ready for texture.

Will report back once I nail that down.


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## few35t (Dec 10, 2014)

sub'd


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I have brushed Slick Sand on with good results.

Are you hand sanding those pods or using your sander? I would hand sand with a soft block so you can get the contour right. And remember when you sand, go over the area in an X- go one way and then go 90 degrees so you don't get flat spots. Use guide coat to find your high/low spots. Guide coat works because it is a powder and won't clog your sand paper.


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

thehatedguy said:


> Spray can primer has no catalyst, so it will never really harden...not enough to stay stable when you use thick coats and will eventually shrink.


It's crazy to me that people have so many issues with high-build primer in spray can form... I don't have these issues, but maybe my application process is different that many others. I do light to medium coats and I also bake my parts (provided they are not plastic) between coats, which obviously helps. Poly-primer or high-build epoxy primers are great to work with provided you have a compressor, spray gun, and a suitable area to perform the work. 
As stated, a skim or glaze coat is the best way to fill the little pinholes at this point. I've also used medium and thick CA glue with a fine tip to fill holes like these in the past. It's not as easy to sand, but if applied well it doesn't need much finishing.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

thehatedguy said:


> I have brushed Slick Sand on with good results.
> 
> Are you hand sanding those pods or using your sander? I would hand sand with a soft block so you can get the contour right. And remember when you sand, go over the area in an X- go one way and then go 90 degrees so you don't get flat spots. Use guide coat to find your high/low spots. Guide coat works because it is a powder and won't clog your sand paper.


To this point, I have exclusively used my mouse sander with 80 grit. I use varying pressure and direction to widdle the material down to where I need it. with a light touch and a good eye, I think it's a great combo- at least to get you close to the finishing steps. The simple coat of the texture showed some high spots and of course the pinholes so I'll just use what's on hand and go with the suggestions of small spot treatments followed by skim coat. Then I can bust out the finer paper and tackle it the rest of the way by hand. It's much easier to feel the tiny imperfections that way.

Once we get into the new place and I have some shop space, the compressor and hvlp gun will be one of the first purchases and the combo to use going forward for me as I'll actually have the resources then. For how infrequent I'd be using it, a quart of Slick Sand would last me a couple years so it's worth the money for sure.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

The problem is that sander has a hard pad, so no matter what it is sanding flat spots.

You could have done that pod by hand with 36 grit on a soft pad just as fast as you did with that sander. Especially if you catch the filler while it is still green (just started to harden).

But the key to not getting that waviness is the X pattern when you are sanding, and not trying to get the low spots out by killing the high spots completely. But you'll need guide coat for that.

I wouldn't spot it and then skim coat it. Just go a head and skim the whole thing. When you start to sand dissimilar materials is when you start having more issues with stuff showing through and getting high spots.

A note about feeling imperfections, as a general rule never feel with your finger tips, always feel with the palm of your hand. What the palm feels, the eye sees.

Just to prove that I am not just BSing here are some cars that I did some body work on:

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./414257255307925/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./414257471974570/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./414260035307647/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./414261618640822/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./413701395363511/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./413703905363260/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./413704358696548/?type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/DavidsImpa...0.1429558030./414256235308027/?type=1&theater

That's my reflection in the black Impala, Mustang, and blue/black 29 Buick.


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Amazing work thehatedguy!


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I can't take credit for it all...I didn't do the painting, but me and a couple other guys did the body work. The "old" old cars were single stage paint...the Camaro was painted after I left as was the black/gray 64. 95% of those cars were blocked and sanded by hand, only a few had air tools on them. Working there and doing the body work really changed how I do body filler and sanding...cause I learned from a pro- look up Phillip Carey on Facebook, he's the one who showed me the right way to do things.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Well I found my spot putty  Sweet!

Hoping to have some time to work on these before we leave Friday. I still have plenty of other things to tackle in the wiring department and in the trunk before I can even consider cosmetics, so these are on the back burner until then. Remains to be seen if this vehicle will be the one that makes the trip to NC or my Mazda. Still a LOT to accomplish here and not much time to do it.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

This bad boy has buku potential. Was awesome hearing what the D3004's and 10F's are capable of at the meet. Your pillar and mid pod setups are coming along splendidly. Great to meet you finally Sir. Big time had by all.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Babs said:


> This bad boy has buku potential. Was awesome hearing what the D3004's and 10F's are capable of at the meet. Your pillar and mid pod setups are coming along splendidly. Great to meet you finally Sir. Big time had by all.


Thanks Scott- much appreciated! Wish we had had the time to get more done so we had a solid tune on it, but it was "good enough" to at least get a feel for the capabilities and where it's headed. 

The 10f's and D3004's are excellent, for sure. I'm digging the HAT L6v2's in the doors as well. They can get down pretty darn well.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

The tune is never done.  All I did was correctly set gains yesterday, which were set too low due to my error. The whole tune is screwed as far as levels and EQ. Back to square one. Keeping Erin's tweaks though on that file as he put my subs up in the dash pretty darn quick. Gotta find the noise files he was using to really show bass location.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

(Quoted from the recent NCSQ meet thread)



ErinH said:


> Steve: Your wife's setup is going to be stupid-good with you at the helm. I am always impressed with your build quality and how acute your feedback is on mine. With your skills and trained ear, I'm pretty sure that car could be a top contender in any org if you wanted it to be (as long as your amp settings allow it to play music! lol). It was on-point and any comments I had about it, you were already aware of. In the same vein, I definitely appreciate your feedback on my car. It's nice to get verification on things I'm hearing (or not hearing, lol). Having met you only a couple times now, but knowing you for years on the forum, I can say without doubt you are one of the nicest people I know. Which makes hanging out with you a great time.
> 
> - Erin



Thanks Erin, the feelings mutual. I'm usually careful with criticism of anyone's system after they let me demo it because we don't all tune for the same end result. For an SQ competitor, the tune is usually a little different then one for someone tuning for enjoyment on the street. I always hope my feedback doesn't come across as annoying. I know you spend a great deal of time tweaking and tuning to get it just right and because of this, you almost have to be very specific with any criticism because of how dialed in your system typically is. Like you, I really enjoy getting some experienced ears in the car to point out some things I might not be picking up on which can help me to address them to make the tune more complete. I'm no veteran or expert so take my findings with a grain of salt 



Michelle will be glad to hear the comments about her car. It was a long way from my normal complete tune and I had to go about it in a method I'm not used to doing so I was definitely out of my comfort zone on it. For others who weren't at the meet, we took the Corolla down to North Carolina for Bertholomey's Spring GTG event and had a great time. We were able to get the speakers installed and the gear at least wired up before leaving an hour late on Friday morning. We didn't have anything more than high frequencies through the tweeters when we left but figured it was an easy fix so we pushed on and hit the road to figure it out down there. Once we arrived, Erin poked by to say hello and meet Michelle. He was kind enough to pop his head in the trunk to check connections and found the culprit instantly. The 8 channel JL XD800/8v2 had the input switch set to 2 channel instead of multi channel. Doh! We just didn't get that far in the setup process in our rush to simply get the connections done and get on the road so it was overlooked. Once that was clicked over, we had normal output on the system, but no tune in place. I realized that we didnt have the aux-in adapter for the w505 connected so we couldn't use our laptop RTA setup to tune as I normally do. So I did the best I could with a little time in the car using some pink noise and sine tones to try and level things out. It was at least good enough for people to get a demo and get a feel for what the speakers could do and the general feel for the strengths of the vehicle.

One current issue would be that there is no sound deadening in the car. The doors and plastic panels need to be treated heavily (it is a Corolla afterall), especially with those HAT L6v2's pounding away in there. After completion of the treatments and the fabrication work, a solid tune will definitely make this a good sounding car. I was surprised at the width and depth it is capable of. Putting the mids in the sail area was definitely the right choice for this vehicle. It has more width than my Mazda and it doesn't even have a proper tune yet.:blush:
Those Scanspeak 10f midranges and D3004 tweeters are outstanding as well. Thanks for pointing me in that direction Erin. For those that haven't seen the tests on those drivers, please visit Erins page to check them out.

Scan d3004 tweeter test: http://medleysmusings.com/d3004602000/

Scan 10f Fullrange test: http://medleysmusings.com/10f8414g10/





For everyone else who has been following along, I'll post up some pics shortly of the recent work. I cut some door baffles out of 3/4" starboard (like hdpe) and tapped them with threaded inserts for the drivers. I added threads for the pattern of the HAT l6v2 as well as the Stereo Integrity BM mkIV so we can play with both. I also added threaded inserts on the metal door panel for the mount of the baffles and applied butyl rope between the baffle and door as well as some ensolite foam between the baffle and the speaker flange.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

First up, the door speakers, baffles, etc.

I used the stock speaker adapter to make a trace of the contour, then used a router to cutout the center circle with precision, and my jigsaw to cut out the baffles.







As you can see, the baffles had threaded inserts installed for a high quality, secure mounting of the drivers.







Threaded inserts in the metal doors and well as the butyl rope applied.






Ensolite foam on the baffle 







Speakers were secured with high quality stainless allen bolts and washers.





.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Both left and right side were done.







Big props to Don of SoundDeadenerShowdown.com for the awesome products at very reasonable prices. This butyl rope is wonderful stuff. Use it in the doors where cross-members/crash bars meet the door skins and in corners were panels meet. Also between baffles and other pieces to decouple. It also has a good amount of grip for sealing pieces (I used it between my fiberglass mold and the metal in the kicks).





You'll notice that I shaved down the mounting arms of the baffles to allow clearance for fitment. The stock baffles were like this as well, although much thinner.






Routed the wiring for the midrange up to the sail location


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Some of the backboard wiring. This is the backside of the amp rack. I wanted that to be relatively neat as well. You'll also notice a relay and wiring for the LEDs.





Power wiring was run down the left side of the car and speaker wires and signal (optical/Ai-Net) down the right side).







For the battery connection, I needed a place to mount the circuit breaker. I decided to cut out an abs piece and install some nutserts for securing the breaker to the abs piece. Next, I needed to secure the abs panel to the car. I drilled and installed nutserts into the steel battery tie down piece and used stainless allen bolts for securing all pieces together. The battery is filthy and has an anti-corrosive on the terminals that some monkey at the garage got a little over-aggressive and careless with. I'll have to clean it up soon.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> I always hope my feedback doesn't come across as annoying.


Not at all, man.

Here's the truth...
I always listen to people's feedback. I think everyone has a different way of coming at their conclusions. My feedback is almost always tied to the issues I deal with in my own car... for instance, spending years on trying to get the tweeter/midrange/midbass/subbass output I want while keeping it well blended. This means I listen for typical modal issues that I have certain tracks for (while still being a hoot to listen to). And I pay attention to the sound of the skin of a snare vs the impact of it. Timing/phase is the single most important factor to me. If you get that right, tonality just falls right out in nearly every case.

Tonality, to me, is always one of the areas where it's either fine or there's something definitely wrong... there's not a lot of in between for me. To me this is where the car is doing it's thing. My new install specifically highlights aspects that sail panel tweeters don't have in my car: a lot of top end harmonics that adds a layer of sound that I'd never otherwise gotten. So, as far as tonality, I don't fret over it too much other than where phasing issues impact it. For example, time alignment between a midbass/midrange being off and causing a hole in the response that causes the tonality on one side to sound different than another. Or the sub/midbass phase being off a bit and not giving the harmonic 120hz punch on the dash; but rather in the seat bottom. I've gotten so keyed in on these things with my own car that it's typically one of the areas I'm more sensitive to. I can't tell you if the Sax sounds like it should to a "t" but I can tell you if your phasing is causing you issues. There are others who are the total opposite, though. Plus, sometimes I focus so much on a particular area that I forget something else; case in point, focusing on tying down a wandering frequency, getting it lined up, but forgetting to move the level of the right side down a half-dB, resulting in the stage being a bit skewed to the right. And this is why I value input from everyone. Feedback from people at meets and comps are great ways to take a system up a notch. 

So, no... you aren't at all annoying, man. Your feedback was spot on. And I appreciate that kind of detailed analysis. Especially with you getting back in and walking me through the things you noticed with your music. I value that.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I'm already a fan of your embracing threaded inserts. Coolest little tool in the car audio bag, I think. Hadn't thought of using them for fuses at the battery. You may have solved a biggie for me.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Babs said:


> I'm already a fan of your embracing threaded inserts. Coolest little tool in the car audio bag, I think. Hadn't thought of using them for fuses at the battery. You may have solved a biggie for me.



Sweet! 

Yeah Mark W was the one who showed me the light. I used them for the door baffle mounts, on the baffle for the midbasses, they're used in the mounting rings for the mids and tweeters, in the mounts for the circuit breaker, in the amp rack, etc etc.
Just a much nicer way to do it and prevents you from damaging the mounts and baffles every time you might want to change something by punching in new screw holes.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Of course, I used threaded inserts on my kick panels, and when I switched from the Dayton's to the Vector 6.5's, I had to make new holes...which (because of aligning the logo on the dustcap) went right NEXT to the threaded inserts. There was JUST enough room to get a regular screw in there, and it's touching the insert. lol

Would have been fine if I didn't mind the logos being straight (even tho the left one is upside down so I didn't have to extend the wire in the kick).

Jay


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Babs said:


> I'm already a fan of your embracing threaded inserts. Coolest little tool in the car audio bag, I think. Hadn't thought of using them for fuses at the battery. You may have solved a biggie for me.


Funny I saw I read this from quite a long time ago. Finally got around to finding a use for these myself huh.

If you ever get board with phone in hand, would love to see some shots again how those sail pods turned out. What an awesome build. 

I'm just lurkin' for inspiration as I might get one more weekend to work on the trunk rack myself instead of a slab of MDF just holding it all in.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Babs said:


> Funny I saw I read this from quite a long time ago. Finally got around to finding a use for these myself huh.
> 
> If you ever get board with phone in hand, would love to see some shots again how those sail pods turned out. What an awesome build.
> 
> I'm just lurkin' for inspiration as I might get one more weekend to work on the trunk rack myself instead of a slab of MDF just holding it all in.



Well, I attempted (many months ago) to wrap them in vinyl and the adhesive I used failed. What I'll probably do at this point is pull them out, sand them down to smooth again and then maybe cover them in either grill cloth or look into flocking them. I haven't experimented with that before but it leaves a nice texture. I also have a can of SEM texture I could use, but I'll definitely need to get them smoothed out a bit more first. This car will be my focus over the winter months since I now have a garage to do some work out of. The only thing I need to do for mine is a better controller mount which might involve me rebuilding the top of the center console, but I'm not jumping into that one just yet.

I'd really like to get this car shaped up so it is ready for the 2016 season to compete in Rookie


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Well, I attempted (many months ago) to wrap them in vinyl and the adhesive I used failed. What I'll probably do at this point is pull them out, sand them down to smooth again and then maybe cover them in either grill cloth or look into flocking them. I haven't experimented with that before but it leaves a nice texture. I also have a can of SEM texture I could use, but I'll definitely need to get them smoothed out a bit more first. This car will be my focus over the winter months since I now have a garage to do some work out of. The only thing I need to do for mine is a better controller mount which might involve me rebuilding the top of the center console, but I'm not jumping into that one just yet.
> 
> I'd really like to get this car shaped up so it is ready for the 2016 season to compete in Rookie


You might consider SEM high-build primer then that SEM texture coat. Worked nicely when I finished the 'pods'. The primer does fill in small pits fairly nicely, making the job easier, plus it makes surface contours and areas needing attention very easily seen. Give it a primer coat, sand smooth, rinse and repeat. At the meet, we can actually pop out the pods super easy if you want to get a closer look at the SEM product results.

Yeah I have a full basement with garage bay but unfortunately the garage area is kinda cramped, so I know the feeling. Sure wish I had your wood-working expertise, area and equipment. I have reached that point I gotta get a router/dust-collection setup built. If I could get my MDF and fiberglass skills going, I'd be a danger to myself and everyone around me. hehe 

I gotta learn up on all the different comp classes. Your ears will know soon if I even need to consider it or not with this current 2-way build. Can't devote the time to go 3-way just yet.

Will look forward to seeing whichever ride you're bringing to the NCSQ meet.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Have you done any work on this car lately?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Nope. 

We've been very busy between work, school and the new house. I still havent gotten to tweak the tune in my car yet which I need to do for this season. (nothing major as it's very close, just need to clean up a few areas in the midbass and upper midrange).

I do have plenty of workshop space though now so hopefully I'll get to continue with this in the spring and get a good tune dialed in on it as well.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Slight update here...

I had previously done vinyl on the midrange pods. Well, the spray can adhesive I used failed (not a huge surprise there) and the vinyl had lifted badly allover the place. I'm now working on cleaning them off, recoating and getting them prepped for a new finish.
I have materials coming to flock or to do a proper texture coating/top coat.

Here's where I'm at right now. Just got the junk off and put a couple of thin passes of some evercoat body filler/putty on the top and started sanding. I'm going to need to pick up a flexible foam pad and do the fine shaping by hand as suggested earlier in this thread. That will help to get a more consistent, smooth finish throughout. If I do flock, it wont make a huge difference and I'll have more room for error. The texture option will show a little more and will need everything looking better.
















I'm also smoothing out the back side of these that faces the window. Since this portion will be seen, it needs to look good. Much better than they were before, so I have a good ways to go, but getting there.

I have some Slick Sand coming that I'll spray a few thick coats on after working these to the desired shape. Then I can fine sand them and decide on the finish. I'll do a little test on a couple of pieces to see what looks best.


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice shape!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks! Still have a little more work to do on them before hitting with the Slick Sand but they're getting there. They need to be damn near perfect shape wise and then the SS will help level out and give them a very smooth surface to finish on.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks! Still have a little more work to do on them before hitting with the Slick Sand but they're getting there. They need to be damn near perfect shape wise and then the SS will help level out and give them a very smooth surface to finish on.


Slick sand and featherfill are the shiznit!! I prefer the featherfill because I get it in the black color and it sprays thinner. The slicksand is a faster high build primer though so it is quick.

BTW....Featherfill sands much better too!

EDIT__

I just found a post that I did in the old fiberglassforums when I was looking for the difference between the two primers.



> NDM
> "Finally got my answer to this debate....
> 
> Slicksand and featherfill are almost the exact thing...I called evercoat and found out that the slicksand has and extra ingrediant in it that allows it to stick to metal better. the ZNX sumthing stuff. the feather fill is actually slightly better at sticking to plastics and fiberglass.
> ...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks for that. Yeah I understood it the same way. Slicksand is about double the mil thickness when applied per coat (it's about 4-6 mil) so it builds up quicker. It's also better on metal and Featherfill better direct on plastics but both are suitable if the surface is prepped right or over something like fiberglass/resin. The thicker slicksand needs a little bigger tip (like 2.0 minimum - 2.5). You can also add a little acetone to it to thin it out a bit which helps.

I found the SS to sand really nicely previously on a well prepped piece. If the Featherfill sands even easier that's great.

I'll try to get some pics of the process to show how it works when I spray them up (hopefully late next week).


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

More work on the pods. 









After more filler, more sanding I decided to put a guide coat of primer on them to see where they're at a little easier.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

They're getting much closer to being ready for slick sand and finish prep 

Just a few tiny areas to address and I have to clean up the mounting baffle/opening a little bit.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> They're getting much closer to being ready for slick sand and finish prep
> 
> Just a few tiny areas to address and I have to clean up the mounting baffle/opening a little bit.


LOOKS GOOD.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Looking sharp!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thank guys. 

The Slick Sand arrived so I hit them with a couple coats yesterday. I'll do a couple more today and then they'll be ready for some final fine shaping/sanding to get them pretty much spot on. Still undecided about flock or SEM texture. Any thoughts on that?

The flock will hide any very slight imperfections but the SEM texture, not as much. The flock is a suede texture where the SEM plus a top coat will look more like vinyl. Hmmmm...


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

captainobvious said:


> Thank guys.
> 
> The Slick Sand arrived so I hit them with a couple coats yesterday. I'll do a couple more today and then they'll be ready for some final fine shaping/sanding to get them pretty much spot on. Still undecided about flock or SEM texture. Any thoughts on that?
> 
> The flock will hide any very slight imperfections but the SEM texture, not as much. The flock is a suede texture where the SEM plus a top coat will look more like vinyl. Hmmmm...


I can't recall where I saw it. It may have been on this site but the person in question used flock on there piece and while it looked very nice at first eventually the oils left from their finger prints/handling the piece must of messed with the flocking material and you could clearly see finger prints all over the piece. 

I don't have experience with flock so I can't say this would be the end result. I just wanted to say this.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Thank guys.
> 
> The Slick Sand arrived so I hit them with a couple coats yesterday. I'll do a couple more today and then they'll be ready for some final fine shaping/sanding to get them pretty much spot on. Still undecided about flock or SEM texture. Any thoughts on that?
> 
> The flock will hide any very slight imperfections but the SEM texture, not as much. The flock is a suede texture where the SEM plus a top coat will look more like vinyl. Hmmmm...


SEM texture over SEM high-build primer will cover up nicely. It's a bit forgiving. The primer will show you the last little bit to rub smooth, but also fills in a bit. SEM texture goes on easily and also covers up tiny imperfections. My little tweet pods are just SEM texture black over high-build primer. 

That said, if flocking fits the car interior better, then that's the direction to go. Kinda really depends on the finish you envision fitting the car. 

I sure wish I could find a yard or two of the seat fabric in my Si.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

i don't like it. start over.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Damn you Benny.




Scott- There's no suede or similar texture in the car as of yet (It's a corolla afterall), but I would like to put a dashmat in there similar to what's in my Mazda. If I do that in suede and the pods in suede, it would look good still. In fact, I'd probably pull the pillars and remove the grill cloth and do them in the suede flock too at that point.

Decisions decisions...


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Damn you Benny.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


3rd world problems


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Yeah, seriously...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

What the flock!

















I'll have to see how they turned out when the glue and suede fibers cure up. I'll check tomorrow afternoon and shake them off to see how everything held up. Fingers crossed....


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I wish you well Steve but we know you do top tier work so all will be just fine.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Your skills are vastly improving every time. These pods look awesome and that Flocking came out really good.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Flocked looks good

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Coppertone said:


> I wish you well Steve but we know you do top tier work so all will be just fine.


:laugh: I do work on some sort of tier, but not top  Thanks though.




Black Rain said:


> Your skills are vastly improving every time. These pods look awesome and that Flocking came out really good.


Thanks Juan. First attempt at flocking.



AVIDEDTR said:


> Flocked looks good
> 
> Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk


Agreed! Textured would have looked good too but since I'm ordering a suede dashmat for her car, I think this finish will go a little better.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I did some more work on these pods. Got the rings cleaned up and flocked as well. The metal mesh grills adhere to the back of the rings via small neo magnets in the backside of the rings. These grills press fit into the opening of the pods to cover the mids.















And a few pics just showing how it will look. The glue for the flocking takes a few days to a week to fully cure up so I'm trying to be gentle with these pieces until then- hence the picture with the grills not fully pressed in. I also still need to hit the mesh pieces with some flat black to clean them up, but you get the idea.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bonertastic


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

AVIDEDTR said:


> bonertastic



hah! Thanks bud. I'm trying to up my install/fab skills.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

those really turned out great!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

AVIDEDTR said:


> bonertastic



What he said^^


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## jb4674 (Jan 29, 2015)

The hexagon pattern on the grills is too big. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

jb4674 said:


> The hexagon pattern on the grills is too big.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Too big for what?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Too big for what?


too big to acoustically dampen beaming! duh!  

but seriously...

they turned out really great.

only thing i *might* have tried is finishing the trim ring piece in a different material. but i reserve my final opinion on that until we see them mounted in the car. what's the holdup?!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

benny z said:


> too big to acoustically dampen beaming! duh!
> 
> but seriously...
> 
> ...





jb4674 said:


> The hexagon pattern on the grills is too big.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Steve those are some killer pods and those grills look awesome too. Your skills are definitely elevating to a higher level.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Black Rain said:


> Steve those are some killer pods and those grills look awesome too. Your skills are definitely elevating to a higher level.


Oh he had me at amp rack in this car long ago.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

benny z said:


> too big to acoustically dampen beaming! duh!
> 
> but seriously...
> 
> ...





Yeah, I should have them in her car probably in the next couple of days. I also have to get crackin' on finishing up the trunk build for it.

I'll snap a few pics with those pods installed when they go back in.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Black Rain said:


> Steve those are some killer pods and those grills look awesome too. Your skills are definitely elevating to a higher level.





Babs said:


> Oh he had me at amp rack in this car long ago.


Thanks fellas, much appreciated!

I think I pointed it out earlier when I first built the pods (before the vinyl failure) that Dave Smyer hooked me up with the rings/grill pieces for these. I also consult with Dave and Mark Worrell on fab techniques and materials to help me in making the right choices when I build so big thanks to those two fellas. I just wanted to make sure credit was given where it's due 


I can make some rings for most of what I need but when they're that small and you get into chamfering and shaping edges on the small pieces, I just don't like to risk that with my limited routering skills (and safety devices). I've since ordered a Fukuda router shield for safety so I can feel comfortable in routing out some pieces like this in the future. Actually, possibly sooner than later....... But that will be in one of my other threads 

Most of what I use you can find here (including the router shield): http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html


.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Yeah watching Mark (CAF) with that router shield is inspiring. I have the PC 890 router but then funds came to a screeching halt. Hate it when that happens. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well I'm glad that you are getting a guard for the router. We do so much in the pursuit of this hobby and sometime we forget the safety aspect of it all. 

Well brother, chive on...hahaha


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Looking amazing! Thanks for the mention and I'm just honored to be mentioned with the likes of Mark W.!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Steve, the pods look great. One thing I think would look cool, is after you get your router shield, maybe make some new rings out of Lexan (acrylic, plexiglas, whatever) and paint them. Kinda like the ones in The Performer's 2014 chevy truck thread. Round ones would be simple. 

I made some new tweeter grilles for a Cadillac SRX...I had to make 8 or 9 jigs/pieces just to router them. They were made from like 3/16" ABS routered to about 1/4" wide for the outer ring. I managed to keep all my fingers intact. lol

I posted them in Fabrication Nation a while back, and even Ray West was impressed. lol

Jay


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Fantastic stuff bro.....gotta make a trip up to your area to check out both cars!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

benny z said:


> only thing i *might* have tried is *finishing the trim ring piece in a different material.* but i reserve my final opinion on that until we see them mounted in the car. what's the holdup?!



Yeah, that was also suggested by someone else to me. I figured I'd give this a shake first since it's a very easy finish process and see how it looks and then I could always scrape/sand off the flock and paint them or vinyl them if needed.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> maybe make some new rings out of Lexan (acrylic, plexiglas, whatever) and paint them. Kinda like the ones in The Performer's 2014 chevy truck thread. Round ones would be simple.
> 
> Jay


Not a bad idea. I don't have any leftover acrylic/lexan so it may have to wait a while but sounds fun!




bertholomey said:


> Fantastic stuff bro.....gotta make a trip up to your area to check out both cars!


Thanks Jason. I'm looking forward to getting her car wrapped up (trunk work is to follow next) and finally get a tune on it. I'm thinking we may have to do some work in the doors though or move the midbasses to kicks because of all the output and the associated problems with doors :blush:. The same reason I've vowed to do kicks in my cars lol.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I keep pulling out the 10F's and D3004's and holding them up to one of the spare pillar panels I have on the shelf, then say "damnit!" and put them back in the box. Gotta get my project going. Maybe if I can cut a teardrop baffle with the dremel circle cutter I'll get off my stump. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Not a bad idea. I don't have any leftover acrylic/lexan so it may have to wait a while but sounds fun!


If I get some scraps left over from speaker adapters or something, I could send it your way. 
Don't get me wrong, they look great, btw!

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Finally got around to getting the speakers installed and the sail panel pods finished up today. I like 'em.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Steve, that turned out exceptionally well. When I first started looking at it, I was like, wow that's a lot of Hardware holding that speaker, then I saw the final piece and felt dumb

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Steve, that turned out exceptionally well. When I first started looking at it, I was like, wow that's a lot of Hardware holding that speaker, then I saw the final piece and felt dumb
> 
> Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk


:laugh:

Thanks!


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

Just found this thread, killer pods and love the flock!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thank you

First time flocker.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Those look amazing my friend - I'd say those skills are bonafide! I'm looking forward to hearing this Corolla!


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

Hi!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

The panel pods look great, I have a question though how are they mounted to the door card? 

One of the guys at the meet yesterday (sorry whoever you are, lot of new people!) suggested trying my mids at that location. They are temporarily in PVC cups on the dash while I work on permanent pods for them, going to relocate them to the sail panel and see which I prefer. Just wondering how they are attached.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

naiku said:


> The panel pods look great, I have a question though how are they mounted to the door card?
> 
> One of the guys at the meet yesterday (sorry whoever you are, lot of new people!) suggested trying my mids at that location. They are temporarily in PVC cups on the dash while I work on permanent pods for them, going to relocate them to the sail panel and see which I prefer. Just wondering how they are attached.


I built these by modifying a stock sail panel. The stock sail panel mounts to the vehicle with a metal compression clip and a plastic clip similar to what holds door panels on. The shape was built by starting off with a base of fiberglass that fit the contour of the door shelf area there so they stay in place well.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

turbo5upra said:


> Hi!


rawwwwwrrrrr




bertholomey said:


> Those look amazing my friend - I'd say those skills are bonafide! I'm looking forward to hearing this Corolla!


Thanks Jason!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> I built these by modifying a stock sail panel. The stock sail panel mounts to the vehicle with a metal compression clip and a plastic clip similar to what holds door panels on. The shape was built by starting off with a base of fiberglass that fit the contour of the door shelf area there so they stay in place well.


Thanks, it looks like the sail panels in the Corolla are pretty small so that at least gives me hope if I decide to go this route. The ones in the A4 are tiny, but as long as the pods have enough I can attach to then it should be good.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

naiku said:


> Thanks, it looks like the sail panels in the Corolla are pretty small so that at least gives me hope if I decide to go this route. The ones in the A4 are tiny, but as long as the pods have enough I can attach to then it should be good.



Yeah I see a Dayton RS75 pod build coming. You can do it!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Babs said:


> Yeah I see a Dayton RS75 pod build coming. You can do it!


Was it you that suggested I try them in those pods? If it is sorry I forgot!! I am actually wondering if I can fit the RS75's in the door cards where the tweeters currently sit and building smaller pods on top for either my existing or some new tweeters.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Just read though this gold mine of a thread, and I just wanted to say thanks for sharing. That amp rack is amazing


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## audiophile25 (Oct 5, 2008)

I love the way the pods turned out! Reminds me a lot of he ones I built for my white protege.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks guys.


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