# Saab 9-3 V6 Aero SQ Install



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Hi, just thought it a good idea to post this here to hopefully get some ides/pointers on what to do/not to do! Would be great to get some input form anyone who's upgraded their 9-3 and how they went about sorting the headunit as it looks a right pain!

The car's a Saab 9-3 V6 Aero, I've just bought it and this will be an ongoing project over the next few months. All below is copied & pasted from Talk Audio and I'll just add to it as I go on

I'll be re-using one or two things from the last Saab but its going to be pretty much new kit going in and better quality than last time, also a fair bit more sound deadening and try to do a better job of it!

This ones going to be a bit of a pain to sort out as the audio system is a weird fibre optic thing and a right pita to upgrade to anything decent. Most of the guys just swap the dash speakers for better 3.5" co-axials and maybe fit better mids in the doors and 6x9's in the rear. But what I have noticed after deadening the doors is the standard kit sounds a lot better now, there's definitely an improvement in it....it sounded horrible before!

On the 2003-2007 9-3 the 'headunit' is just an interface called an ICM and is a part of the cars computer system, this gives the bing/bong warning and turn signal sounds etc etc so has to stay in the car and function as normal or it causes big problems. The CD player sits below this and is din sized with a fascia cover and eject button.

To fit an aftermarket HU I need to create a loop around for the fibre optic cables so the system still gets all the warning sounds and I'll have to route these to the centre dash speaker as it really screws with the dash mids at the moment and sounds crap! I'll have to leave all the fibre optic wiring in place as I'm not keen to rip it all out, plus the 2 amps will probably stay fitted but bypassed. So basically ill have to rewire everything from scratch, cut the CD players fascia to house the 80PRS and go from there. I'd like to keep the steering wheel functions this time but I'm not even sure if thats possible?

Basically the new system will be 2x used Genesis series 3 amps, head unit is my old 80PRS, front comps are new Sinfoni S165W mids & S25 tweeters and the subs are a pair of used Genesis P69 4ohm subs. The amp wirings a Knukoncepts 0AWG & 4AWG Kolosus kit plus some 50mm2 welding cable for tb3, speaker wire is some 2.5mm ebay stuff, all covered in nice black & red braid! RCA's are my old Van Damme ones and the deadening is a mix of Silent Coat and some CCF/MLV from a couple online stores. And I think that's about it.

This is going to be a sort of rolling project as i'm also trying to sort the cars performance side out same time but after a bonkers re-map I now need an uprated clutch as its slipping like a good un with 400ft/lbs, uprated brakes (as they're now cooked as I've been having fun!!) plus add a few suspension mods and fit them etc etc.... so it'll be done as and when. I'm going to try and make a small basic false floor in the boot to hide both amps & wiring as I need the boot space (last car was a nightmare with the DLS A7 on show!!)

Anyway! Pics! (coz we all love pics!!)

Here's the car









Pioneer DEH-80PRS from the last car









Genesis Four Channel (For the fronts)









Geneis Dual Mono (For the P69's)









Sinfoni S165W Mids (doors)









Sinfoni S25 Tweeters (dash)









Genesis P69 6x9 subs (rear shelf)

















I've also got the S100M mids in case I decide to go 3 way active later on, not sure yet...I'll wait and see how it sounds with the P69's first.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

*Wiring*


I initially bought a Celsus '00' gauge kit which is CCA but after measuring it and a few gentle nods on here to get something decent I bought some Knukonceptz Kolossus 0 & 4 gauge OFC power cable instead! (I didn't even know the difference until I got told on here!)

Here's the cable:

























I also bought a couple meters 50mm2 welding cable (more out of curiosity to see what its like!!)

Also went for some more braid in black & red, I really screwed up with the size last year but got it a little better fit this time!









Then after more advice on here I bought some 70mm2 welding lugs









And decided to splash out on a hydraulic crimper off ebay, I ruined loads of terminals last year so cant be arsed with that again! £30 well spent!




















Then decided to get a decent fuse holder so I can make it a slightly tidier instal. I went for this Audison Connection block for the boot:

















And a 0gauge fuse holder off the battery (I hope this ones ok for under the bonnet?









For battery terminals I went with Knukonceptz again and bought a pair of triple 0gauge terminals, which also come with a 4gauge adapter


















They fit my old Bosch S5 no problem which luckily also fits the new Saab!









Appart from the old RCA's and speaker wire which is this stuff off ebay: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4169229a09
I think thats the cabling done?


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

*Deadening Products & a few new tools!*

I've gone for Silent Coat 2mm and SC 4mm multilayer extra again, I found the multilayer extra really good last time but this time it was a bit of a pain to get the paper backing off as the top layer came off with the paper on a load of sheets, also seemed to tear a lot easier than the older stuff. It looks a little different to the stuff I used last year so might be a different compound they're using now?

The one on the left is my old stuff and on the right is what I bought the other week:


















Top new, bottom old









Not a massive drama but was a bit annoying trying to get the backing off at times.

CCF I bought a mix of isolator 4 & 8 and 3mm/6mm from foam solutions. I've held off on the foam solution stuff as it feels more like open cell foam than ccf? Definitely listed as ccf though? What your thoughts on this then!

Left is Foam Solutions http://www.foamsolut...-x-3mm-29-p.asp and right is SC isolator 4










SC Isolator 4









Foam Solutions 3mm CCF









Has anyone else bought the foam solutions CCF or am I just being paranoid? I'm a bit worried to use it if it is indeed ocf as its going on the floor & boot...

Anyway! Heres all the deadening so far!









Bulk Pack of 2mm & 4mm SC









SC Isolator 4 & 8

















SC Sound Absorber 15









I was going to try the 35 but this seems thick enough









Foam solutions 3 & 6mm CCF









Some new tools from CAD! (Btw...CAD have been brilliant here! Really fantastic service)

Trim removal tools and dynamat roller. I used a £10 b&q roller laste year and the thing fell to bits after 10 mins so the dynamat one has been a godsend! Same with the removal tools, MILES better quality than the ebay stuff I bought last year...cheaper too!!!









2 quid trim popper..cam in handy a few times when the plastic clips got stuck in the door! Neoprene gloves...I got cut to shreds last year so thought these a good idea! 6.5" MDF rings for the doors, but I might re-use the plastic adapters.








Just need some MLV and more CCF for the boot & floor, might also need more CLD sheets but will see next month (getting skint now!!)


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

*Deadening the Front Doors*

First thing was to get on youtube and see how these cards come off! Newer Saabs have a lot of GM in them so not as well built as the older cars!









How To Install Replace Remove Front Door Panel Saab 9-3 Sedan 03-11 1AAuto.com - YouTube

So its just 2 screws then push clips!

First I had to fight this cover off! Though this was going to snap but got it off in the end!









Then with my new shiny Halfords torx ratchet thingy I got the screws out!
T25 torx bit needed

























Then get the removal tools under the card and start popping it off (makes a hell of a noise!!)

















There's 3 connectors behind the card and ones a right bastard to get off...another quick battle and off it came!
Then your left with this:









It looks/feels like its a thin layer of moulded ccf, I just ripped this off to get access to the door skins.









Its also moulded behind the speaker which is in its own little door pod (maybe thats why they sound so tinny and bloody awful!!!)









Got that off and just peeled the sticky surround off so was left with this









Then just stuck the multilayer extra to the outer skin, pretty tight access here so the roller wasn't used that much as I couldn't get it in the gaps!

























Then did the inner skin (nightmare!!!!!!!!!!!!!) 

I used mainly the 2mm stuff here to cover the huge gaps

























Then added some isloator 8 (bigger nightmare!)









Making sure I left these clear! Surprising how thick 8mm is!!









Not the tidiest of jobs but its on there...









Then did the door card with absorber 15 (might have gone a little ott here!!)









All going great then tried getting the card back on and nno way was it playing! So I binned the large foam thing and added more absorber 15 to the card.









Still no joy!!! And its because the door card is moulded to fit into the doors cavity! No issues on the last saab but this ones not playing! So I've had to remove the ccf and deadening ths sealed the big hole and now the cards back on ok! I need to get back and just add CCF only over the gap like the other doors so thats done.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Passenger door was done but this time I just added the CCF to the inner skin this time instead of CLD and it did the trick! Card went back on no dramas! Also just used isolator 4 this time as the 8 was too thick.





































Front doors done...what a difference!! Well worth the effort!

Rear doors have no speakers but I wanted to deaden these anyway.

Same stuff as the fronts









Better access here!




































Just the other door to do then thats them done!

Thats as far as I've got so far, back at it next week on my days off!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

The MLV arrived yesterday from CAD, I've just gone for their single 2mm sheets instead of the CCF/MLV combo as I've still got some CCF here.
Dodo Barrier MLV

I think this is a new product so here's some pics to give any guys a better idea if they're thinking of buying some.

600x900mm sheets, 2mm thick & 5kg per sq/m









I've bought 10 sheets so hopefully that's enough to do 4x doors, the cabin floor, boot & wheel arches? Ill do the doors & cabin floor first and see how I get on.

Looks a lot in the pics so I might be ok? I'm glad its in sheets and not a big roll, looks much easier to fit.


















I've never seen MLV before! It's surprisingly heavy for such a thin/pliable material. The box is real heavy with 10 sheets!!!

























Just wondering if its best to fit them edge to edge then tape the seams together or overlap by an inch or so instead?


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

And here's some pics with it against Silent Coat Multilayer Extra and Isolator 4 to give a better idea on sizes.









So if I've got this right it'll be SC,CCF,MLV on the floor/arches which will be 10mm thick, then in the doors the same but with absorber 15 stuck to the back of the door cards.









Floor









Doors









I just need some more CCF then I think that's all the deadening products ready to fit. (This is taking ages!!)
Just need a dry day to finish the doors and hang the MLV


----------



## robert_wrath (Apr 24, 2011)

Great to see your build progress in play!
Just a heads up issue with the equipment:
- Audison/Connection In Line Fuse Holder 0/1 Gauge may NOT accommodate KnuKonceptz Oversized Kolossus 0/1 Gauge Cable [ It's actually 00/0 Gauge ]


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Damn 

Thanks for the heads up, ill check both fuse holders tomorrow.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

After a weeks bad weather I got a dry day to fit the MLV and 90% finish the doors, I just need to fit the Sinfoni speakers and add a little more MLV then the doors are done 

Products used were-
Silent Coat 4mm Multilayer Extra (outer skin)
Silent Coat 2mm (inner skin)
Silent Coat isolator 4 (4mm CCF)
Dodo Barrier 2mm MLV
Silent Coat Sound Absorber 15 (egg crate foam on back of door cards)










Here's the drivers door as I left it last month, I couldn't get the card back on with the CLD & CCF fitted....









I've peeled off as much of the old 8mm CCF as possible (Silent Coat Isolator 8) then applied some 4mm CCF over the top (SC Isolator 4)









Then bought 3 packs of HD Velcro, could have done with 4!









Then velcro'd the MLV to the top and trimmed around it. I've never used this before so be gentle!









I've left a gap above and around the speakers as ill be swapping these for the new ones plus some 6.5" MDF rings then finish off the MLV next week.

One door done for now


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Rear door

I've already added CLD & CCF here so just needed topping off with MLV then add the foam to the door card as I forgot last month :blush:




























Done


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Other side 

I had to start fresh here as I didn't have time to do it last month. I've done the same as the other doors.

4mm CLD on outer skin & 2mm on inner skin









4mm CCF 









Trimmed & everything poked through...









I was running low of Velcro here so had to split one roll between both doors.

















Then added the MLV which is secure enough, should be ok with the door card squeezing it in place?


















Then did the door card









....one more to go!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

3 hours later and here's the last one!

This ones just got the 4mm CCF on top of the usual CLD, ill keep the 8mm & 6mm stuff for the floor...









MLV hung, gap left same as the other door. I'm guessing ill be ok to just add MLV here and tape it to what's there to seal both doors?


















So that's the doors done until I fit the Sinfoni's. But I can't fit them until I've fitted the headunit, can't fit the HU until I've sorted the fibre optics & wiring out, can't to the wiring until I've ripped the interior out and deadened the floor & boot.....so it looks like the speakers will be the last things fitted


----------



## robert_wrath (Apr 24, 2011)

Ahhhhhhhh, I like the approach on applying the MLV.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

robert_wrath said:


> Ahhhhhhhh, I like the approach on applying the MLV.


 thanks, I hope I've done right here? I've never used it before so just copied some ideas off line :blush:


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

If anyone's had one of these Saabs before they'll know what I mean when I say the system is bad! Its bloody awful and im 99% sure this has the top 13 speaker system fitted! Sounds very tinny, bass just non existent and it just vibrates like hell when turned up...... Its seriously CRAP

All I wanted to try before adding any new aftermarket speakers/amps/HU was just see if the standard system can be improved at all with a little deadening and it has! Its miles better 

I've just made a start on the parcel shelf and added some 4mm CLD, this has really improved things! I was tempted to fit my P69 subs but ill hold off on this until I've got the shelf out and done it properly. The rears now sound a lot more punchy and doesn't vibrate like before. 









Tbh the standard system sounds pretty decent now 

My biggest gripe though is with this batch of Silent Coat Multilayer Extra, the last lot was great, this ones a right pita to peel the backing of, it either tears in small places or just goes all gooey like this 









^^^^^pretty much every sheet has done the same! I don't think ill use it again 

Next weeks job.....seats & carpet out then deaden the floor :bigcry:


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Got some more done last week, this is taking AGES!!! I hope it'll be worth the effort!

Loads of pics on this one sorry.....

First thing to get out was the front seats, they came out pretty easily which was a nice surprise! I did the passengers first just in case I broke something! They're just held in with 2 bolts on the back of the runners, seat belts belt on with a star socket (or whatever they're called???) then you need to lift the back up and fiddle around with the front until its released. Then there's a big connector that needs to come apart...10 mins and its out 

You need a T45 Torx bit









2x bolts at the back of each runner, looks like they've got locktite on there but these came out ok.









Seat belt bolt









E14 bit needed

















Big connector (no idea what this is for? The seats are manual & not heated?)









Pull this out and it comes apart all Saab like 

















One seat out....









Amp 1 then had to come out.









T25 Torx bit needed (all these smaller Torx screws seem to be T25 which is handy!)









Amp off..








Fair bit of surface rust but its working fine, not sure if its best to refit this and leave the fibre optics in place, refit & bypass or just keep it out and bypass with a simple loop? 

Drivers seat then came out out same as the passenger one.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Rear seats out

These just needed a careful tug from behind at each end then the back comes up


















Then the front side took a bit of wiggling to get out, these must hook into place or summat??

























All seats out then onto the trim









T25 torx again and these were first off









Just had to carefully remove it then get the rest off piece by piece 









Then off with this smart thingy (I might add a little ipod nano dock here later on)









2 x screws then off it comes









Open the center box, take the rubber bottom out then unscrew these









Then start removing the rest


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Door sills next

I started from the center & worked out from there


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Glovebox off









3x T25 bolts inside









13mm socket









T25 torx each side

















Out it comes!









Couple connectors at the rear


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

That's most of the trim now removed and I'm left with this:









Only problem (big pita problem)  is I can't get the carpet out!! I've been trying to figure out a way but the only way I think it'll come out is if the entire centre console comes out....I'm not doing that! I know my limitations and stripping that lot is defo one!! Unless I've got it wrong it looks like they've laid the 2 bits of carpet first then bolted everything ontop of it...I'm screwed!!!

So the only way I can do the floor is lift a section of the (heavy!!!!!) carpet up at a time and lay the deadening as best I can. 









The carpets pretty thick & heavy so even if I deaden 70% - 80% of the floor it should still make a nice difference. Looks like its got a thick layer of foam plus some vinyl attached already!!









So now the plan is to split the job into 4 and deaden each at a time, rear left & right first, then front left & right, I really wanted to get the lot out then do it properly but it's not happening & this just got more difficult as the carpet is a right swine to work around!!!!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Deadening the rear 

I've only got a few CLD sheets left and mainly the thicker stuff, so on the large open areas I've used this then any complicated or curved areas used the thinner 2mm stuff. CCF I've just used the 3mm stuff.




































CCF on top


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Other side









That's all I've got left, I need another pack of 20 for the front & boot. 













































CCF


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

MLV down!!










I've just taped this to the CCF, ill then overlap it when I deaden the front 



























Other side & tunnel done









Bloody CARPET!!!!!!!!!!!!









And that's as far as I've gone...20 sheets of SC ordered earlier so i'll crack on with it over the weekend 

I just need to check how far across this MLV has to go for 100% coverage, not sure if it needs to go right to the door sill or if its enough like this?


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Problems with the front carpet 

I've tried to sort the front carpet out but it looks like its the same as the back stuck under the trim, plus I think it's glued right up front....nightmare now as I can't MLV up to the bulkhead as planned 

There's a load of felt on top then the carpers glued under there 









Trim needs to come apart again to get the carpet out...not happening so I think i'll be cutting it then have to glue it back down in a few places, really didn't want to do this 









This is as far as I can get the carpet out!!!

















So properly deadening this looks a no go unless i get the stanley out, plus I've still got to run the wires....


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

With no more deadening possible until I've got the front carpet out I figured I'd take a look at this fibre optic stuff. I've been dreading it but its pretty easy really 

First thing to come out is the ash tray (thats another little problem...)









Then the heater control panel, and behind this is the EHU (Electronic Head Unit) This has to stay in the car, the CD player can come out though 









The EHU & CD player are attached together in one big cage, you have to slide something thin (trim removal tool worked for me) then prise each side inwards and pull the unit out.









This comes out so far then you have to pull them in again to get it fully out

















At the back of the EHU there's a large connecting block, pull the tab upwards then this rotates backwards and comes off


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Next is the fibre optic connecting block for the CD player 









Get a thin flat head screw driver and push the tab down, gentle pull & out it comes 









To separate the CD player from the EHU you have to prise these tabs apart each side then the CD player slides out

























Then the EHU needs to come out to get better access to the cables so you have to remove the aerial wire. Just pull down on the tab and it comes off easy


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

The fibre optic connector is just a holder and there's another plug inside this that houses the wires









Push this small tab in and the inner housing comes out









Then your left with this, get a thin screwdriver and gently push the blue block up and out of the holder

























Then gently prise these small tabs open each side of the holder and this releases each cable


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Then you have to reconnect these two wires to maintain the fibre optic loop, I tried a few different sized tubes and different lengths, if they were too far away either the system wouldn't come back on or there was a crackling sound over the speakers. So I've cut the tube a little shorter and its now fine. I tried all sorts of different pens/biro's but the best fit was from a retractable pencil! 









There's not much give in these wires so I've taped these up pretty tight to stop them moving.









Battery back on and its working a treat! (Ignore the airbag warning, that's just because the interiors still in bits in the boot!)









Also the Aux in works 









So that's the fibre optic loop sorted! Easy


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

CD player swap

Ill be reusing my old Pioneer DEH-80PRS here, luckily the cd slot is single din and it slides straight in. A few problems though, first one is it just sides all the way in and doesn't latch onto anything....maybe a small screw each side will secure it?

















2nd problem is the ash tray has a lip to it which stops the face plate coming down so changing CD's will either be tight or might not even be possible 









Its fine without the ash tray fitted!!! I know there's another type of ash tray with out the lip, but I'll try cutting the lip off first and see how it goes then









Here's the lip









Problem number 3 (they're racking up!!!)

As its not the usual audio set up with the normal ISO connectors I need to basically tap into the cars existing loom for all the head units power/earth/illumination wires. 









But ignore the speaker wires as I'm using RCA's so just need these 4 wires plumbed in, black/red/yellow/orange (Blue/white is the amps remote wire so that's sorted!!)









After asking around it looks like I can tap into the cars existing phone connector for the two power wires plus the earth (didn't know I even had one fitted but its there!!) then tap into the cigarette lighter for the illumination wire. 

And that's as far as I've gone! Getting there slowly epper:

Another little project I'm looking into is swapping the ICM2 unit (Radio/CD green display panel) for ICM3 to get satnav in the car and possibly reversing camera. I may as well do it as the current ICM is now redundant with the Pioneer fitted and not used, but thats a job for later this year....need to find a scrapped 9-3 with everything fitted then rip as much out as I can, its mega bucks to buy new


----------



## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

One thing is for sure. If anyone comes around with that same kind of 
car they will be able to look at this and know exactly what to do. Lots
of detail...


----------



## globaledge (Jul 13, 2013)

Hi, keep it up, can't wait for the next instalment! I've just purchased a Saab 93 vert 2005 and slowly trawling the threads across the world to improve the sound. Your project will help immensely. I will take the advice and start with the sound damping process to improve existing sound (7 speaker system - only 150W). My challenge will be to find space to install a sub firing into the back seat but allowing the top to retract. I'd be grateful if you can point me to any other relevant projects or threads. Regards Keith (Cape Town)


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> One thing is for sure. If anyone comes around with that same kind of
> car they will be able to look at this and know exactly what to do. Lots
> of detail...


Hopefully 

Its been done by a few guys but there's not a lot of info on the head unit swap. Hopefully it'll help one or two out


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

globaledge said:


> Hi, keep it up, can't wait for the next instalment! I've just purchased a Saab 93 vert 2005 and slowly trawling the threads across the world to improve the sound. Your project will help immensely. I will take the advice and start with the sound damping process to improve existing sound (7 speaker system - only 150W). My challenge will be to find space to install a sub firing into the back seat but allowing the top to retract. I'd be grateful if you can point me to any other relevant projects or threads. Regards Keith (Cape Town)


Thanks, I'm glad it's proving useful! 

Yeah I'd definitely deaden the doors as a minimum, then seal up the doors with some CCF. There's a few guys with subs in their verts, try the following forums:

SaabCentral
SaabLink
Uksaabs
Saabscene
Saabnet

Also worth checking out garaget for some nice & unusual builds from Sweden & Finland. Some lovely motors on there!!

Some more here...
forum.saabturboclub.com • Index

Ill update this thread tomorrow but my P69's sound like they're shagged so I might get one of these Alpine subs as a temp fix until I can afford either some decent 6x9 subs or something more SQ orientated. They're pretty compact so might be a solution for your vert?

Alpine SWE-815 Road Radio


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Update 

A little package turned up...

20 sheets of regular silent coat 2mm deadening (I've got right off the more expensive multilayer extra as its a pain to get the backing off, I don't think ill use it again.....)










First job was get this piece out to get better access to the carpet....to cut it  










With that out I could cut a little further under the console.

Rear carpet out









Drivers side out....









Passengers out









Some more deadening, MILES easier with no carpet trying to decapitate me, and these sheets are much easier to work with 



















CCF down









MLV









I've gone as far up to the bulkhead as I can


















Drivers side









CCF under the MLV but no pic 









Also due to these pipes having to go back down I can't MLV the cabin 100%


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Amp cable

I've just used the existing bung behind the glove box. 

















Stabbed the bastard living crap out of it with a very long screwdriver (army head firmly back on by now in this heat!) just want it done now!....but the cable went through ok though...

This KnuKonceptz 0 gauge cable is dead easy to work with, very pliable and none of the problems I had with the Autoleads kit trying to spring back into a big coil , and this Knu cable is also more like 00 gauge! Really good quality kit.

Bit of red PVC braid to protect it and look all pretty!


















I've left a few inches dangling off the end, got the screwdriver in the middle then jabbed it through the hole, pulls through easy. Just glides through with the braid fitted...









Plenty to play with, ill run a short 6" wire from the +ve terminal into a fuse holder then run the rest of the wire from there. Job done! 









All tucked under the strut brace for now safe out the way









Inside I've ran it under the plastic pipes and through the seat struts. 









So it'll be speaker wire down each door sill, power cable down straight down the middle passenger side, RCA's tucked to the left of the drivers seat next to the console.

Passenger carpet back in....very nearly broke me this!!! 









The only way I could get it back in with the deadening down is place it as it should be from the rear, then fight the thing back into place right up to the front and under the glove box....knackering this carpet is proper thick!!!


Almost there


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Woohoo! Its back together....sort of ....bloody center trim 

First job today was sort the old RCA's from the vert. All I wanted to do was put them in some thinner polyester braid along with the amp remote cables. What a palava!! The new braid will take 2 but not 3 sets of RCA's so had to re use to old one....half hour wasted 










This was routed down the drivers side of the center column then to the rear door sill and out the back.

For the amp's earth cable I decided to use the rear seat belt bolt. Last time I picked up some alt whine so decided to grind the paint off everything and try to get a clean connection.
13mm for the bolt

















Alomst used the supplied lug from KnuKonceptz and the hammer & vice thing.... then remembered I've bought a bag full of welding lugs & hydraulic crimper 










Better!









Crimped (dead easy with the crimper!)









Heat shrink









Grinding off the paint

















Also grinded the lug (not sure if this will make much difference?)









Done 









Then ran the cables to the boot, ill try and keep the power cable as far away as possible from the others this time, but the passenger side speaker cables will cross at one point (haven't done that side yet as Ive lost the speaker cables!)


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Then took another look at this head unit, I've cut the lip off the ash tray and this has solved the CD problem, the fascia now drops down as it should so i can insert/eject a cd. I just need to sand it down to get a better finish, cut the old CD players fascia to fit.....then that's done.

















Then took a look at the phone connector and what to connect the headunit to for 2x power & earth.









If I've got this right its:

red- perm +12v
yellow- ignition +12v
black- earth










Then find a wire for the illumination and the pioneer can be fired up!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Trim & interior back in, 9-10mm deadening makes a big difference in these! The carpet & trim has been a right swine to get back in....hours of struggling!


















The center consoles still not right and a few mm out, but I need to get it back off anyway to access the wiring for the headunit so ill sort that later. 

















Lovely job for this week in the heat wave!

Glove box needed drilling for the iPhone & USB cables to come through, and glove box screwed back on

















Seats back in (painless & flew in!) 









That's today. Hopefully the harness will turn up tomorrow then I can get the head unit powered up, swap the speakers then fit the amps and see ow it sounds


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Couple hours deadening today, just the rear shelf this time and a quick swap of the 6x9's for my Genesis subs.

The shelf comes off pretty easy, just drop both seat backs then carefully remove these 3 plastic lugs, lift up at the front and pull it out










With that out the way your left with this, so mine has the 11 speaker system? 5 up front & 6 in the shelf.










I think its 6x9's for bass, 4" for mids and looks like a 2" tweeter for highs. When I eventually fit the amps ill just wire up the 6x9's only, disconnect the other 2 but leave them in situ.


















I wanted to seal up these 3 holes, then add some deadening here and there ontop of the shelf, I've also done underneath.










To get the 6x9's out you have to remove both C pillar covers as these block one of the screws


























Shelf deadened









Gennesis subs fitted....but not working 

















No idea what's happened here, they could be goosed but visually look in vgc. I've wired up the old 6x9's and these work fine, the p69's are showing no signs of life though, no sound and no movement in the cones? 

Do these P69's have to be amped to get any sound from them? I'm getting nothing from the headunit


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

A small package turned up 



£11 posted!!!! And it works fine!

I've been tempted to get an ICM3 fitted (colour screen) but prices are pretty high, plus going off whats been said the SatNav isn't all that  (Does look good though!!)

So what I've been thinking is to keep the ICM2 panel, but as it'll be just sat there doing nothing I'd like to retro fit a separate small satnav behind the screen. Same as whats been done here:
Replaced ICM2 screen with satnav - DONE!! - SaabCentral Forums

Looks like it'll just miss out a couple mm but should fit ok...


Also the wiring harness turned up, plan here is to solder this into the car so theres a harness fitted for an easy swap of the head unit if I decide to swap the pioneer later on or when its time to sell up in a few years.



I was going to cut into the phone kit but I've bought a SOT harness to connect to the adapter. 
CT10SA02 SOT T Harness Lead Parrot for Saab | eBay

SO I need to cut and solder the both harnesses together on the bench, fit the sot lead in the car and hopefully that'll be ok and give a me a working ISO power harness? Just need the illumination wire done (I think I'll use the cig lighter) then its done


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

And that's as far as I've gone, the SOT harness turned up so that needs looking at to power up the 80PRS, also bought another set of 6x9 subs for cheap to try. Kenwood is time, they'll do for now. Kinda wish I'd kept my Focal 27k now:cry2:

Still need to deaden the boot and run some speaker wires down the passenger side. I'm hoping to be up and running next week when I've got a few days off!


----------



## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Wow, elaborate documentation and thorough job on sound deadening!
Looks like a well build car, especially impressed by stock rear sound setup.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Mless5 said:


> Wow, elaborate documentation and thorough job on sound deadening!
> Looks like a well build car, especially impressed by stock rear sound setup.


 thanks!!

The standard set up is pretty poor though tbh, 11 speakers and Saab still managed to make it sound crap! It sounds even worst now with no working 6x9's, just no bass coming from the rear.
The deadening's helped a lot (sounded pretty nice before I pulled the 6x9's) but straight from the factory these sound terrible  especially the base models which I think just have dash speakers fitted.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Haven't updated this is ages! Just copied & paste from my project thread on Uksaabs.

Couple goodies turned up 

Morel Elate SW 9 woofers

Always know its good kit if the boxes are a bit po'sh 

















Now I've got them they do look more like mid bass speakers than subs, still meant to be very nice though plus im not after a deep deep bass just something nice and accurate and take a little stress off the door mids....need to decide on an enclosure.


























Also pretty shallow and around half the size of a sky remote! Also handy as I don't want a massive enclosure again as I need to boot space.









Will paint these black again, ones also a little dented so needs pushing back out









These look really well built! 









And with the fake Morels floating about this gave me peace of mind that's its genuine...

















So that's all speakers & subs now finally bought! Just need to pop to b&q tomorrow and get a load of off cuts to build the box when I get a weekend off!

Still waiting on my wiring harness....only been 12 days


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Finally!!! The telephone looms here!









I can't check the car until after the weekend but this looks like the correct 18 pin adapter









Mondays job is figure out which is definitely the 2 power wires & if there's an illum wire here (don't think there is though) then solder on the ISO harness and fingers crossed the pioneer will come to life 









After getting the wrong connector twice...this one fits!!! Finally!! 









Just need to figure out what wires are needed then solder on the harness and hopefully it'll be up and running 

Aaaand!! Were in business  (feels like I'm getting there now after all this time!!)



Just tapped together to make sure it's working, also need to connect the illum wire then solder the wires properly & heat shrink (can't find the pack I bought last month!!)


So wires from the phone kit are-

Red 12v memory
Red/blue 12v power
Black earth



Date/time & settings saved with the car off/faceplate removed but can't get the HU to power up without the keys in & ignition on, I've tried swapping power wires over but still no joy.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Few more bits done today, weathers gone bad again so can't get much done in the actual car 

Soldered/heat shrunk the harness properly and heat shrunk any spare wires so that's one pita job done! 



So just have these 3 wires connected until I fit the amps and connect the blue remote wire, not bothering with the illum as it not really needed.



Ta'da!! 1 x loom finally done!



Also as I had the solder kit out I figured I may as well sort the rear 6x9 subs out to give me some bass until I sort out the morels.

Forgot I had these Kenwoods!




Had to de-solder the connectors then make up another couple wires with proper connectors soldered on to connect to the cars wiring. Tbh they're not the best sounding subs! Seem to rumble more than boom but will try them with the dual mono next week. Might be a little better, only a stop gap so not too bothered.



Tomorrow's job- fit the front comps and temp fit the amps in the boot.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Weathers looking good so this lots going in 










Door mids are pretty deep & the magnet is pretty chunky, so might have a problem here with mounting them.









Plan was to reuse the standard mount but cut the back off as i think its a sealed cup, then just swap speakers over. Not sure if it'll work. Also have a mdf ring here but I think its only 18mm so might not be deep enough. 

Connectors are easy though!









4" dash mids I'll try and fit and get the tweeter on the a pillar, just spade connectors here so easy.









Tweeters were supposed to go in some focal pods but they're too small  So the pods will be up for grabs! Just need to solder on a couple connectors here.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Ran into a problem with the speaker mounts as suspected, they've got a back to them unlike the old vert ones which were just a big thick solid ring. 

Here's how far the mids will go! Surprising how chunky these are! Should really bang!!



Here's the mount off the car, you can see the how it cups the old speaker, slats let some air out plus there's a big hole on one end to get the plug/wire through.



I've had to gut the insides out with some snips and just have the ring part, had to cut a fair bit out to fit the magnet, snapped the bloody thing too when I dropped it 



Mount back in and needs tidying up but the speaker fits great (more problems though...)



The windows catching the magnet by 1mm!! Just touches it and pushes it out slightly!! Fitted a couple small spacers behind the mount to push it out 3mm and it just clears the window. All going good then I tried to screw the thing in and the old screws are too thick for the speaker basket! Can't go in with it drilling the holes a little bigger (not doing that!)
Popped to b&q for a few different ones to try, one fits great but the actual thread is too small for the holes in the mount.....can't screw it anywhere as there's not enough meat on the mount plus these Sinfoni holes don't match up with the mount anyway so will have to make up some baffles.

Tried my mdf spacer but the door skin is uneven so can't get a decent seal. Stuck now. I'll take another look tomorrow. No mega rush as I'm working solid again this week and using the works van.

Took another look at the kenwoods, thought they were blown earlier so sorted the wiring out and they work...just sound bloody terrible!!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

I've bought a pair of 36mm mdf spacers, took a bit of a gamble on the right size and its half paid off 




These fit the speaker ring perfect inside, with just a couple mm overlap on the outside so plenty of meat to drill into but not too wide. (I think it'll still foul the ring inside the door card though)





36mm sounds a lot but it gives around 3 or 4mm clearance for the window 


Speakers laid flat in the box as they would be in the doors, just a few mm taller on the mdf ring



Roughly 6mm difference in height, might have to trim some of the door card to get it back on, guarantee it'll hit the way this is going!


So far so good, until I put the old adapter on the new one :wall: 

One bolt hole fits fine


But the other two are way out and no where near the ring


Now I'm stuck again! Do I get another 36mm ring with a thicker bezel and hope that fits or just screw it on with one hole and use an adhesive or fibreglass to bond the rest of the ring to the door skin? 
Or get 2 small bits of mdf to attach to the ring with strong glue that I can drill through for the other two points and secure it that way (no idea what to use) 
Only issue with a thicker bezel is clearance issues with the door card back on. 

Also need to drill though the ring the thickness of the bolts, then drill again a few mm but a bigger hole to counter sink the bolts head so the speaker fits nice & flush.

This lot better sound awesome when it's finished......mega headache just trying to sort the easiest bits!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

That takes me up to where I am now, sounds like the mdf rings I bought are no good as they're too close to the speaker and will sound crap, so next weeks plan is make up some mdf mounts using the old plastic ones as a template but get the baffles cut so there's more room between them and the speaker. I'll try and make it 8" then stepped down to 6.5" to fit the speaker ring. 

I think I'll invest in a router/table....


----------



## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

cool build log!! very entertaining, with so many pics!! Its like we there with you, swearing along!


----------



## bsa77 (Aug 12, 2013)

Definitively a handy manual for others, like myself, faced with the same challenges 

Couple of questions: (not meant as criticism in any way, just curious and trying to get my head around things  )
You did not seal up any of the holes in the doors with anything else than the damping material? I see many use plexi/steel/HDPE to cover up the holes first and then cover it all with whatever choice of dampening material. 
Any reason why you did not?

Did the ten sheets of MLV cover it or did you need more? Did you do the trunk?

I saw you posted in SaabCentral that you had been advised on chamfering the backside of the baffles. Funny, I have just popped the question on the topic here.
Haven't really seen many do that?

A bit cheeky of me maybe, but if you have a go at the baffles yourself then if you could/have the possibility to throw up a pdf outlining the shape and a couple of measurements for reference, that would help tremendously!

Keep up the excellent work


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Hi, no just used the deadening sheets in some ares and the CCF/MLV on the larger gaps to seal it up as best I can. I tried sticking the CLD over the large open gap but the door card wouldn't go back on. The card must mould slightly into the door skin, plus the large blue foam block on the door card had to get binned when I sealed up the corner as the card wouldn't go on again 

10 sheets was enough to cover the 4 doors and floor, I've still got to add a little more to the front doors above the speaker, haven't started the boot yet or roof but I'll get the same silent coat CLD, 3mm CCF from foam solutions but some cheaper MLV. There's. Place that sells the same stuff for a lot loss (I'll have to find the link)

I think the problem with the baffles was they're too close to the speaker, I've just bought a cheap router to knock up a couple adapters next week. Never used one before so it'll probably be crap! If it comes out ok no problem.


----------



## mitchjr (Mar 8, 2010)

Subscribe


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

New head unit coming 

DEX-P99RS Component Reference Series CD Tuner - Pioneer Car Stereo, Radio

Can't wait!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Temp harness to check it's working ok (needs tidying & soldering!)









All good 









Looks waaay more involving than my 80prs!! What's this mean?









Just need to make these speaker baffles then I can fit the amps and power it up


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Slight change of plans 

Looks like I'll be selling both Genesis amps & the 80prs to recoup some cash from the p99 purchase...was worth it though!! They'd be getting swapped next year for Sinfoni Amplitudes anyway when I've got the cash so not the end of the world!

So I've been looking for some cheap amps to tie me over. Looked at some cheapy cheap brands, then looked at some older 90's amps and found these!!

First one was this Milenium Falcon! Denon DCA-800, fancied one for a few years but always missed the auction.



So that's 6 channels, just needed another 2! I was going to run this Alpine along side it-


Then went searching for a white amp for SWMBO's car and found this!!


Always thought Caliber amps were cheap tat but looks like i'm way off! Meant to be pretty good!! So I'm having it for the Saab instead of the v12 

Knowing she won't be happy with the Alpine as it's not white to match her white car! I found another one!!


Something about these Caliber amps!! Could well be the start of a small collection!! 

So had a look for more info and apparently the chrome ones are a bit rare & collectable? So bought this earlier!! 



Evolution 4300 (think it's called Chrome in the US?) first one I've ever seen!








Gone a bit overboard on amps the last 4/5 days :laugh:


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Couple more amps for the collection to try out over Xmas!

*Caliber CA450*



















*RF Punch 40i DSM*



















I've gone a bit ott on the amps this month, they've all been had very cheap though so I'm happy. Missis isn't though....going bananas back home :whip:
Everything but the door speakers are going in this Monday!


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Nice man those amps look great


----------



## SWINE (Aug 29, 2008)

Hey bro! Thank you for SAAB install! Chek the water leaks in this point. Water can leak in cabin through "snake skin" insulation!

I had this problem 2 times!


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

SWINE said:


> Hey bro! Thank you for SAAB install! Chek the water leaks in this point. Water can leak in cabin through "snake skin" insulation!
> 
> I had this problem 2 times!


Hi, checked there last week when I had the carpets back out' all good so far but I'll add something three to seal it up. Will silicone do the job?


----------



## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Griffin dai said:


> Hi, checked there last week when I had the carpets back out' all good so far but I'll add something three to seal it up. Will silicone do the job?


Most likely 

--------

Nice build thread. You give the "take-lots-of-pictures" a new meaning xD

I've installed audio in a few SAABs and they're not the easiest cars to work with. The 9-3 model before yours is a real PITA. Btw, how does the hydraulic crimper work? Connect to an air compressor or something hm? -- edit: Never mind I found it on Ebay


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Hanatsu said:


> Most likely
> 
> --------
> 
> ...


 got to have some nice shiny pics!

This ones been a nightmare to sort out, the fibre optic system is terrible, even with this 13 speakers fitted it still sounds bloody dreadful. Cracking car (goes like stink after the JZW remap!) but I think I'll get an 07 onwards v6 next (probably go for the TX wagon in a couple years)

I had an og9-3 vert before this one, also a bit of a pain to upgrade as the single din kit is crap but wasn't anything as bad as this one.
Saab 9-3 Convertible fresh audio install (V.Pic Heavy) - Page 3 - SQ & Technical - Talk Audio - Page 3

They crimpers really easy to use, definitely worth the money 

Are you on any Saab forums? Any links to they cars you've done?


----------



## Viggen (May 2, 2011)

Lol.... You live in the UK and use a US tuner...... I live in a few states away from JZW and use Nordic.... via genuinesaab to tune my viggen


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Viggen said:


> Lol.... You live in the UK and use a US tuner...... I live in a few states away from JZW and use Nordic.... via genuinesaab to tune my viggen


 Got to be done 

None of the Uk tuners get close to Johns crazy torque numbers so had to go for it, worth every penny (pretty much the same pace as my old stage 5 9k with gt28rs!!) but my clutch needs upgrading now. I'll wait until his 20t tune is out then see what to go for. SPEC stage 3+ seems the only one to cope with his 19t tune but not sure how it copes with the 20t? 50/50 on going with SPEC as well, they've not got the best rep when things go wrong..


----------



## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Griffin dai said:


> got to have some nice shiny pics!
> 
> This ones been a nightmare to sort out, the fibre optic system is terrible, even with this 13 speakers fitted it still sounds bloody dreadful. Cracking car (goes like stink after the JZW remap!) but I think I'll get an 07 onwards v6 next (probably go for the TX wagon in a couple years)
> 
> ...


I´ve never owned a SAAB myself but three of my friends fancy them. Guess who got to help them install their stuff? xD

There´s a Swedish SQ competitor who has the same car as you. Can see if I find the thread. It's in Swedish so you might wanna use google translate lol.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

This one?
Google Translate

Some wicked cars on that site


----------



## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Griffin dai said:


> This one?
> Google Translate
> 
> Some wicked cars on that site


Indeed. Heard that car some time ago at finals. He had an interesting solution for the sub


----------



## Viggen (May 2, 2011)

Due to bone stock b235r motor.... I can't go crazy with the power due to the dreaded weak piston issue. I became good friends with the owner of genuinesaab due to my old SPG and spending time with him at SOC's here in the states thus he's who I wanted to use. I just did basic stg3 bolt ons plus a -18t-6cm turbo and t5 cams. 

Going to be interesting how NEVS works out.... Been driving saab's since 1986 and when the time comes..... Have no clue what to get


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

Viggen said:


> Due to bone stock b235r motor.... I can't go crazy with the power due to the dreaded weak piston issue. I became good friends with the owner of genuinesaab due to my old SPG and spending time with him at SOC's here in the states thus he's who I wanted to use. I just did basic stg3 bolt ons plus a -18t-6cm turbo and t5 cams.
> 
> Going to be interesting how NEVS works out.... Been driving saab's since 1986 and when the time comes..... Have no clue what to get


You could always go for the Hybrid B234/235 route 
Must go well with the 18t, bet its nice & responsive  

I've just bought a few bits from Nick in a group buy back here, just a few transmission bits to fit same time as I sort the notchy changes out on this 6 speeder. Pretty common fault on these so want it done soon.

Yeah it'll be interesting to see what happens with NEVS.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

May as well update this quickly! Not a lot done in as much as adding more kit or making any real progress as it basically rained for 3 weeks solid on my leave!!! But had to get the seats & carpets back out last week to add another set of speaker wires for the mids as it's now 3 way front instead of 2, and add another set of RCA's for the P99! (Kicking myself for not doing this last year!....right ball ache and only had a few hours sunshine to get it done!)....****ing knackering!

So the p99's now fitted and seems to be working fine, just need to sort something out for the fascia and cover the gaps either side. The standard CD players bust anyway so I'm hoping I can detach the front (without snapping it!!) then cut it to din size and fit it over the pioneer like a few others have done.










Bonus here is the p99's face plate slides down and not flip down like the 80prs so doesn't foul the ash tray! 










Then figured it best to disconnect the door speakers and cut/solder on the wires from the boot.

Another ball ache as Saab being Saab decided to change the wires colours between the inside connector and door! Luckily I found the info off a friend and had a look at AMP1 under the passenger seat, pulled the connector and the block is numbered, you need wires 1 & 2 for the left side and 5 & 6 for the right, then double checked at the other end by each connector.

Right side Amp1









Right side door connector










Left side amp1









Left side door connector 









Snipped the wires, then turned the radio on. Yep....sounds proper ****, no bass so no door speakers working and have definitely cut the right wires! Then soldered on the new ones to the boot. 

Also swapped these awful Kenwood 6x9 subs for some Genesis P69's and what a difference! Really good, so these will be staying for a while until I've made up a couple enclosures for the Morels.


----------



## Griffin dai (Apr 23, 2012)

And my amps are all here safe! Missis had a melt down but calmed down after a day or so! 










She's having the smallest While Caliber amp for her Copen, then I'll have a play around with the rest and see what's best.

This Caliber Evolution looks awesome in the flesh though! I've never seen one like it before!









Also bought another White Caliber last week! Was dirt cheap so had to have it for the collection....so I'm in the dog house again


----------



## SWINE (Aug 29, 2008)

great old-school collection!


----------

