# Marine Audio, Where To Start?



## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Looking for some help here. I bought a "Cigarette" style 26' off-shore boat and it needs an audio overhaul.

The problems I'm running into are:
1. Open, non-muffled exhaust
2. Supercharger whine
3. Open cabin, so I know I need tons of cone area.
4. Power supply.

So far the only thing I have picked out is the source, an Alpine iDA-X100M, and the only reason I am going this route is I am adding the marine remotes at the helm and on the transom.

I have done a convertible install before so I know the quirks of not having cabin gain, but where do I start?

I am going to run the cabin speakers off the head unit power, then run the amp remote to a dash switch so I can turn off the cockpit speakers and just have music in the cabin for overnighting.

I do want to use 2 10" marine IB subs in the rear bench, but everything else is up in the air.

Do I go 3-way active in the front, 2 way active/passive in the rear and then the subs? Do I go passive all the way around?

It is setup for dual batteries right now, but I have planned on running a starting battery on switch position 1, then going with a bank of batteries and an isolator on switch position 2.

Ideally I would be able to listen at speed running 65-80mph for a few hours, then listen with the engine off the rest of the day while on the hook, but still be able to start the boat. My storage facility does not have power available, so a solar maintainer, or be able to take the stereo batteries home during the week to put on a trickle charger.

I run solely in fresh water, store on the trailer, amps will be in the cabin so I don't need marine grade amps. The speakers will be open to the elements but will never see water on the cones just UVA/B rays.

Which direction would you go in if you were building this system?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I would say passive is fine if you are keeping the drivers close to one-another. That's the beauty of active, its the control and individual processing potential inherent in the design. But if everything is kept in the right spot, a passive will do great just like it does in home audio.

I would suggest the amps stay marine-grade only because moisture is omni-present. Its not like they cost much more if anything. Epoxy-coated boards simply reduce any chance of moisture-born corrosion. I'd run marine-grade stuff in a convertible or jeep if I were doing the build. 

The other thing I guess to think about is efficiency. That, and think in terms of large home audio thoughts. Virtually no cabin gain, but there's ways to do it still.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

This is helping, so that really narrows down my amp choices to the marine versions of Alpine PDX or JL M/MHD Series.

The only marine speakers I have personal experience with are the JL Audio M770 components and the Polk Audio db6501.

The reason for looking at active is I wanted to mount the tweeters up higher, as the cut outs for the stock Clarions are about 16" off the floor. I also have a odd positioning of the port front driver. See pics for cockpit layout. These are stock photos and I don't have the component setup.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

You could also do Marine Bazooka MGA (Zeff designs, apparently, and liquid cooled optionally), Marine MB Quart, Marine JBL, Marine MTX, or Marine Clarion, just to think about a couple.

What do you think about horns?


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I'm not opposed to horns, I just don't have any first had experience with them, so I would have to audition a pair.

I was really looking to go over-the-top on this build, as we do a lot of tie-ups and hanging out at the docks. Going for a total show piece... I don't have a set time line or budget, and if it takes me all season to acquire the components and do the build next off-season, than so be it.

In the back of my mind I always had pictured a set of Dynaudio System 340s up front, Zapco or Audison amps, a crazy processor, and tons of indirect led lighting.

My last build in a convertible I went active with a pair of SLS 8s mated to Aura Whispers and a 10" Infinity sub running of a JL 500/5 and it was great for top down high speed driving.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Well the MS8 might be out of its element in a boat but you might want to ask Andy. That's the best processor we got. You could easily strap two 3sixty.2's together, that would give you 10.2 sound processing, all by laptop.

Dynaudio is usually quite mellow, high distortion (but pleasing to the listener say Dynaudio customers). You might want something a little more sharp and crisp for outdoor listening, but I'm just guesstimating. Without a lot of reflective surfaces, I can imagine you'd want speakers that maintain great off-axis performance and stay well below their beaming point. At least that's what I would probably do.

Have you seen the wakeboard systems out there, by companies like Wetsounds?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Wet Sounds Marine Audio


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

The MS-8 looks very cool although there have always been a few things with it that does not seem to user friendly in a boat. Although I might still try it.

The WetSounds I'm very familiar with as a ton of the wakeboard guys have their tower systems, and their 10" free air is on my short list vs. the JL 10" IB.

I do think I'm narrowing in on some components:

Alpine iDA-X100M to a PXE-H660.
Ch1. Front Left Midrange + Tweeter (Passive)
Ch2. Front Left Midbass
Ch3. Front Right Midrange + Tweeter (Passive)
Ch4. Front Right Midbass
Ch5. Rear Left Midbass + Tweeter (Passive) 
Ch6. Rear Right Midbass + Tweeter (Passive)
Ch7. Sub L or Sub M
Ch8. Sub R or N/C

Or even use a 4ch amp on ch 1 & ch 3 that has built-in crossovers to HP the tweeters

Fully active I see a 6ch amp, 4ch amp, and sub amp.
Hybrid active/passive I see a 6ch amp and sub amp. or 7ch amp, all comes down to efficiency.

Thoughts on going that way for the source and processor. I figure once I get the crossover network dialed in then I can choose speakers, amps, and batteries.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I don't think this is a dumb question, which may be why you aren't getting much feedback. You definitely need some more marine experts in here.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

After going through the MS-8 thread and reading the manuals for the PXE-H660, Bit One.1 and the MS-8, looks like we have a winner. 

I will be going with the MS-8!

So now we know 1. We are going to use a head unit that has Sirius and iPod compatibility built in. 2. The JBL MS-8 is going to handle the heavy lifting and sorting of all the signals.

I now need some amp and speaker recommendations. 7 total channels, ch 1&2 are front mid-range and tweet (would like built in crossover to dial these two in), ch 3&4 are front mid-bass. ch 5&6 are rear mid-bass and tweet (again amp to deal with the crossover) and last ch 7 will be IB subs.


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## diamondjoequimby (Jun 30, 2009)

to be able to hear over open exhaust, blower whine, and 60-85mph you need 4 things cone, cone, power and more power. And if you can spare a few more $$, more power and more cone will help.

Base batteries on how long you want to listen w/o the motor running. Digital amps like MHDs or marine PDXs will help in this respect as well.

I have done several boats w/ JL M amps and M speakers and they are just damn impressive. Build quality on the speakers is phenomenal. Truly "marine grade".

And if all else fails, add more power and cone.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

diamondjoequimby said:


> I have done several boats w/ JL M amps and M speakers and they are just damn impressive. Build quality on the speakers is phenomenal. Truly "marine grade".


Most people around the dock all go with the same formula, Alpine head, JL M amps, JL M speakers, and call it a day. Yes, it does sound nice, but I am wanting to think outside the box.

My problem is I have a boat that is very common and by some considered the entry level for "go-fasts" because of this every unique touch you can do helps raising the respect level around the docks.

I have talked to a few companies that do both mobile and marine speakers, and the only difference in the speakers are basically, a poly coated cone and rubber surround. Peerless, Scanspeak, Seas and many others offer that combination. When I did my Miata build, it was my first experience using DIY speakers, and it was still the best sounding and preforming system I have ever owned.

As far as the amps, they will be mounted on the wall inside the cuddy cabin. They will never see moisture, sunlight, or be exposed to any other elements. I have used car audio amps in the cuddy of my last boat and they never had an issue for the 6 years they were installed.

So let's get crazy, 3-way active fronts with incredible off-axis performance, 2-way active rears, a pair of IB subs, and 11/12 channels of massive power.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

smuruppi said:


> Most people around the dock all go with the same formula, Alpine head, JL M amps, JL M speakers, and call it a day. Yes, it does sound nice, but I am wanting to think outside the box.
> 
> My problem is I have a boat that is very common and by some considered the entry level for "go-fasts" because of this every unique touch you can do helps raising the respect level around the docks.
> 
> ...



Crazy's good.

How about using Zapco DC 6ch up front, 4ch rears, appropriate mono(s) for subs, and done? The DC have processing on board, so that knocks both issues out right there.

you know, HAT claims their drivers are waterproof paper. Just sayin'


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

I have sold a lot of marine audio over the years.. have done a few installs too. My last gig was selling JL audio marine and Clarion marine. I would definitely suggest you give clarion a close look when it comes to marine products. Their standards are pretty rigourous and they offer some really quality marine gear (I had the choice of anything I wanted for my boat and chose clarion) 

The CMV1 looks effing sweet. Clarion has remote remotes too.

4 channels up front, in the cockpit.. Those clarions are already pretty decent, I would consider doubling up, or doubling up and stepping up to the seven inchers, and perhaps glassing some pods to make them look nice. I would definitely not consider any driver not intended for marine use.. and that pretty much rules out three way active in the cabin (if you're running them off deck power)

Anyways, I would not worry about staging and imaging in the least (no active, no point) absoultely the most futile thing you could try so I would go with what everyone else has said, cone area cone area power power power

For my boat I have three batteries.. two on bank two and one on bank one (crank) On bank two I have an intelligent switch that will charge whichever battery needs it and will not let it run down enough so I can't crank (should I have had one too many margaritas and left everything parallel)


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I really appreciate everyone's feedback, but more and more it is appearing that going with a multiple stage upfront, a processor, it just going to be a waste of money.

How does this sound then:
2 set of M770's up front in parallel
1 set of M770's in the rear
2 M10IB5's in the rear bench

All running off a MHD900/5. Taking the input from a Alpine iDA-X100M? Since imprint h-100 is so reasonable, and ups the outs to 4V any cons of adding one, or just going with a line driver?

Since were sticking with all marine rated equipment, any thoughts on the Polk db6501's or Alpine PDX amps?


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

BoostedNihilist said:


> For my boat I have three batteries.. two on bank two and one on bank one (crank) On bank two I have an intelligent switch that will charge whichever battery needs it and will not let it run down enough so I can't crank (should I have had one too many margaritas and left everything parallel)


This sounds exactly what I'm wanting to do. How do you have this setup? Cranking bat on Perk position 1, then 2 deep cycles on position 2 with an isolator? Do you have to switch over to position 1 to start then when at the cove flip to position 2? Are the amps wired directly to the 2nd bank? How about charging? Do you have to change back to position 1 when your ready to leave, start the boat then while it's running change to position both?

I have a pair of Interstate batts right now, but want to go with 2 for the house bank in an AGM, maybe a stinger or Kinetek?


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

I have the smart switch (which also acts as an isolator) wired between the two batteries on bank two.. so, if I leave them all in parallel the smart switch will always keep one of my bank two batteries charged enough to start the boat...

I would seriously suggest looking at clarion marine.. they pretty much pioneered it. There are a LOT of newcomers to the scene but clarion has always been here. Check out their brochure.. some of their tests involve running their cd players under a constant stream of water for 15 minutes! 

My methods are strange. I try to run on bank one on the way out, I put them on all when I get to wherever Im going and going back I charge on all. When at the marina the boat is wired into a shorepower charging system so I never really pay too much attention to what battery I use.. I just always know one battery on bank two will always have enough juice to crank.

I try not to switch the switch while the boat is running.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Get two of these:

Kinetik HC2000-Special-App (hc2000-sa) - Marine Installation & Accessories - Sonic Electronix

combined reserve time of 408 minutes...

or if you want to go sh!t nuts then get the kinetik hc3800 on ebay. Its >$400 though


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## diamondjoequimby (Jun 30, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> I really appreciate everyone's feedback, but more and more it is appearing that going with a multiple stage upfront, a processor, it just going to be a waste of money.
> 
> How does this sound then:
> 2 set of M770's up front in parallel
> ...


what about 4 subs, 2 MHD900/5s and one more set of M770s. that would start to get to the neighborhood of big. Hell, some of the stock Mastercraft systems are pretty much what you first listed.

Nice to see you came to your senses about processors and active on a boat. You are in a boat for God's sake.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

How does this setup sound?

2 Pair of Polk MM6501UM in parallel in front (2Ohm)
1 Pair of Polk MM6501UM in rear (4Ohm)
3 Polk MM1040UM free air subs in rear bench in parallel (1.34Ohm)

Then going with a 4ch and a monoblock from one of the following:
Alpine PDX
JL HD
Diamond D6
MB Quart DSC
Nakamichi
Soundstream Reference

I like that the Polks have a higher power handling and higher sensitivity than the JL, plus the grills are cool looking.

The for the power supply I'll go with my existing Interstate cranking battery on Switch 1, and either 2 of the Kinetik HC1800s in parallel or 1 HC3800 on switch position 2. Most likely I will go with the HC3800 to save the weight over two batteries.

Anyone have first hand experience with the HC3800 and it sitting flat for a week in between uses.

Also since most of the stereo use will be with the engine off, do I need to over power on the amps since most of the ratings are at 14.4V and I will normally be getting between 11.7V and 12.5V?


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I think I have a good package put together, opinions welcome.

Front: 2 Pair Image Dynamics CXS64 V.2 in parallel (2Ω)
Rear: 1 Pair Image Dynamics CXS62 V.2 (2Ω)
Subs: 2 Something in infinite baffle setup (2Ω)

Clarion XH5410 160W x4 @ 2Ω
Clarion XH7110 850W x1 @ 2Ω

All the Image Dynamics products are certified for marine use, so I could go with a pair of IDQ10's but I don't know how they would perform in an IB setup, plus out of all the speakers the subs are the ones that have the highest possibility of getting wet.


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## Rob K (Apr 28, 2009)

I also have a Baja and have kicked around changing the audio set-up. From my research I would stay away from the Clarion amps, most Baja owners complain about their Clarion amps. I'd suggest the Alpine Marine amps, check out the Alpine line of Marine speakers as well.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Rob K said:


> I also have a Baja and have kicked around changing the audio set-up. From my research I would stay away from the Clarion amps, most Baja owners complain about their Clarion amps. I'd suggest the Alpine Marine amps, check out the Alpine line of Marine speakers as well.


These are not the same Clarion amps that came with the upgraded system, these are Zeff designed amps, more online with Zapco and ARC.

For my setup being all 2Ω there is no benefit to me of going with a PDX amp as it puts out the same power to 2Ω and 4Ω, same as the JLs.

Give the Clarion XH series a look, you might be surprised at their pedigree.

As for the Alpine marine drivers, I have always associated them with the guy that takes his boat to Best Buy and get a "system". Better than stock, but no where near what could be had.


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## Rob K (Apr 28, 2009)

Nice, I haven't looked into those, yet...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Bazooka MGA series (and they make a marine version) are also made by Zeff (at least the upper level models are), and they have liquid cooling ability so you can stuff the amps somewhere very cozy.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> Bazooka MGA series (and they make a marine version) are also made by Zeff (at least the upper level models are), and they have liquid cooling ability so you can stuff the amps somewhere very cozy.


These amps are going on display! In the cuddy I have a wall just begging for equipment. Bonus is the head unit directly on the other side of the port wall. 

Port:









Starboard:









I'll make an amp rack out of MDF and cover it with carbon fiber to match the rest of the boat and mount the amps, passive crossovers, distribution blocks and I have a weird idea to integrate an iPad into the mix as well.

I also hope I can change the blue light bar on the Clarion out with a red one to match my all the LED lighting I'm installing.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I actually found a similar install to what I am wanting to do on the same model of boat, this may help for those that are not familiar with offshore power boats.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

yeah, pdx amps are awesome


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Ok,I've talked with some manufactures and have everything ready and will be placing my order on Monday.

My components and configuration diagram:









In addition to the items listed above I'm also adding a Kinetik HC2400 to run the thing all day worry free.

Let me know if anything concerns you before I place my order.

Thanks for help as usual!


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Vega-LE said:


> No thought on running horns?


I've never used horns before, and wouldn't know how I would mount them in the boat with out cutting some major holes and doing some serious fiber glass and gelcoat work.

Plus with the way the flare is if any water found its way in it would act like a funnel to the driver and kill it.

Where would you put the horns in the chain and what would they replace? How flexible are horns in mounting?


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## Vega-LE (Feb 22, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> I've never used horns before, and wouldn't know how I would mount them in the boat with out cutting some major holes and doing some serious fiber glass and gelcoat work.
> 
> Plus with the way the flare is if any water found its way in it would act like a funnel to the driver and kill it.
> 
> Where would you put the horns in the chain and what would they replace? How flexible are horns in mounting?


I was just thinking. I guess... if you're looking for a more of a stock install, you look good with the plans you have. I'd guess... not too many boats run horns, and maybe for reason. But especially for out door, I'd think horns would kick ass.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Vega-LE said:


> I was just thinking. I guess... if you're looking for a more of a stock install, you look good with the plans you have. I'd guess... not too many boats run horns, and maybe for reason. But especially for out door, I'd think horns would kick ass.


Would you do something like a Morel CAT378 mated to a pair of SEAS Excel W18EX-001 for the front stage?

Then the same thing minus the extra midbass for the rear?


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## Audiolife (Dec 19, 2008)

If you are going to do some serious engine off listening I would add another 2400 and a Kinetik KIPS to plug them into while the boat is docked or put up. You can leave it plugged into the KIPS for as long as you want it won't overcharge the power-cells and it won't hurt them by feeding them a stagnant charge like some other devices. I would also add a voltage monitor display.
Kinetik High Current Power Cells
Also I would stick to the normal HC kinetiks over the "specialty" with the fixxed lead posts are old stock of a couple years or more.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Audiolife said:


> If you are going to do some serious engine off listening I would add another 2400 and a Kinetik KIPS to plug them into while the boat is docked or put up. You can leave it plugged into the KIPS for as long as you want it won't overcharge the power-cells and it won't hurt them by feeding them a stagnant charge like some other devices. I would also add a voltage monitor display.
> Kinetik High Current Power Cells
> Also I would stick to the normal HC kinetiks over the "specialty" with the fixxed lead posts are old stock of a couple years or more.


I would love to add an inboard battery charger, however I dry store my boat and my marina does not have power in each storage unit.

I did have the crazy idea to take the tinted plexi out of my cabin hatches and install solar panels in there, so at least while I'm on the hook I will have something keeping my batteries up.

I used the calculator that kinetik had on their page and it only suggested I use a 1800 amp battery.

The battery situation is one I do need some help with. Right now I have a Perko switch that has two inputs, one for each existing battery and then a common that goes to theatarter and the fuse panel. I want to separate the house and starting systems so I never have to worry about not being able to start the boat when it's time burn some gas.


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## Audiolife (Dec 19, 2008)

smuruppi said:


> I would love to add an inboard battery charger, however I dry store my boat and my marina does not have power in each storage unit.
> 
> I did have the crazy idea to take the tinted plexi out of my cabin hatches and install solar panels in there, so at least while I'm on the hook I will have something keeping my batteries up.
> 
> ...


Solar is a constant charge that is very low in output (most of the ones I have seen used). The power calculator also accounts for the 1800 getting some charge while in use. What kills a batteries life span is the repeated depth of discharge. The more it is discharged the shorter the battery will last life wise. Alot of demo vehicles set up this way with the same equipment I am talking about because they cant demo with the engine on. When you are building a nice system you want it to work when you want it to work, just a regular alternator will not keep your batteries topped off and fully charged.If I were you I would talk to who ever runs the marina or storage place about being able to do this. It is just 1 cord and if you use the 45 amp p/s it for sure doesnt need to be a special outlet. Of course still you wouldnt want a mile of extension cord either.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Audiolife said:


> Solar is a constant charge that is very low in output (most of the ones I have seen used). The power calculator also accounts for the 1800 getting some charge while in use. What kills a batteries life span is the repeated depth of discharge. The more it is discharged the shorter the battery will last life wise. Alot of demo vehicles set up this way with the same equipment I am talking about because they cant demo with the engine on. When you are building a nice system you want it to work when you want it to work, just a regular alternator will not keep your batteries topped off and fully charged.If I were you I would talk to who ever runs the marina or storage place about being able to do this. It is just 1 cord and if you use the 45 amp p/s it for sure doesnt need to be a special outlet. Of course still you wouldnt want a mile of extension cord either.


That makes total sense on the key off playing, thank you.

My marina is fine with me running the cord, their policy is that that can't guarantee that someone won't unplug it, drive over it, is intentionally short it out, and if any damage is done ti the marina, someone elses boat or my boat that I am liable.

Any thoughts on just dumping the existing batts and going all AGM or would that just be wasting money. They other thing I have to take into consideration is finding a good battery mount for the kinetiks and making sure what ever terminals I go with I can find a marine rated cover for them. I am hoping the stinger distribution post terminal with plastic cover will suffice, but it all comes down to the coast guard on the day I git for certification.

To bad they don't make high amp marine approved alternators or if my engine bay was bigger I could install a genset and run the charger off that when on the hook like the big cruisers do.


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## Audiolife (Dec 19, 2008)

smuruppi said:


> That makes total sense on the key off playing, thank you.
> 
> My marina is fine with me running the cord, their policy is that that can't guarantee that someone won't unplug it, drive over it, is intentionally short it out, and if any damage is done ti the marina, someone elses boat or my boat that I am liable.
> 
> ...


Kinetik makes sleeves now that should bolt down now.
Kinetik High Current Power Cells
I would concentrate on getting the audio working the way you want it to first. If you are spending 3K or more on the system get it so it lasts as long as you like out on the water then go from there. No battery will last all day if you are actually using a good portion of your power.All batteries will run into a wall, agms like the kinetik will charge better than wet cells and will have the capacity to do what you want.Wet cells will also run into that wall faster than an agm. The KIPS charger/power supplies can be left plugged in for a week or longer if need be too and all it would do is condition the batteries more.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Audiolife said:


> Kinetik makes sleeves now that should bolt down now.
> Kinetik High Current Power Cells
> I would concentrate on getting the audio working the way you want it to first. If you are spending 3K or more on the system get it so it lasts as long as you like out on the water then go from there. No battery will last all day if you are actually using a good portion of your power.All batteries will run into a wall, agms like the kinetik will charge better than wet cells and will have the capacity to do what you want.Wet cells will also run into that wall faster than an agm. The KIPS charger/power supplies can be left plugged in for a week or longer if need be too and all it would do is condition the batteries more.


Thanks for the link those will work perfectly.

Once I get everything installed I'll just take my portable jump box out with me and run the stereo like I normal would and see if I have any problems. Who knows I might just need to run around the lake for 30mins before I head back to the dock at the end of the day. Worse case I get a KIPS and just take the batteries home at the end of each weekend.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

How does this sound for power supply wire runs?

2ga from batt bank to 150 amp circuit breaker in engine room, then two runs (for pos and neg) into cabin fused distro block, 8ga to each of the amps and to secondary fuse block. Secondary fuse block will have head unit, imprint, and led lighting for cockpit and underwater.

Is 2ga enough or do I need to step it up to 1/0? The run will be about 25' +/- 5'

Everything is going to wrapped in tech flex and secured every 8"s


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

If you want to save about .17 volts then yes upgrade to 0 gauge. 

With 2 gauge runs each power and ground about 25 feet you have a voltage loss of .62
with 0 gauge you only lose .456 volts

Im sure you will be fine with the 2 gauge though if you already have it and want to save a bit of cash.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I haven't ordered anything yet... I'm thinking I will get some serious cash back from visa on this build. 

I do this every time I sell a car/boat I let the stereo go with it thinking it will be fun to start from scratch then I realize that I let about $200 worth of misc cables, terminals, and what not go with the last car and always forget to calculate that into my budget.

It is sad I am spending some pretty nice coin on this system and it's going to be by far the least expensive upgrade don't on the boat.

Stick with mobile audio for a hobby, when you get into boating and you go through 3-4 outdrives a season at $10k each, spending $1200 on an amp doesn't sound so bad.


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## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

what are you doing to that poor thing to toast three or four outdrives a season?!?


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

BoostedNihilist said:


> what are you doing to that poor thing to toast three or four outdrives a season?!?


I'm running a Mercury Racing 600sci with a whipple stage 2 upgrade, on a bravo xr with sportsmaster lower. With the amount of torque I have if your not quick on the throttles when you air it out, upon reentry the upper gears break teeth like none other.

That accounted for 2 rebuilds the other one last season was me beige a little over zealous and nailing the throttles out of the hole.

I went with an Imco SCX drive during the off season so I shouldn't be snapping any gears this season.

Oh the life of poker running!


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

Have you considered going ported on your sub enclosure? You might lose some stowage space, but the increase in output vs IB would be very significant. Because of the lack of cabin gain, the only boats that I have seen really put out the bass either use ported subs (usually under the rear bench seat) or mount their subs far forward in the cabin to use that cabin gain. If you plan on running IB, you should get as many huge subs as you can and make sure that the front and back waves are totally isolated from each other. Even with those recommendations, you still will start to lose output at around 40-45hz.  THerefore, if you want to do better than the other boats on the water, go ported. 

If you're set on Image Dynamics subs, I suggest leaning towards at least 2 12 inch IDMax's. A 12 inch IDMax will be twice as loud as a 10 inch IDQ with the same input power--and that's not including the added output/low-end extension of going ported. Throw in almost 6mm of added Xmax and 500 more watts of power handling, and you have yourself a winner.  

If I were you, I would mount the subs in a "clamshell arrangement" underneath the bench seat if you wanted it to look extra showy. If you wanted a more tame look, you could probably build a box behind the baffle and bolt the box to the front wall of the bench seat, cut out mounting holes and ports, and then mount your subs from the front. 

The good news about ID subs is that they will work in somewhat small boxes. I recommend aiming for a 2.7 cu.ft. box for each IDMax 12 and a tuning frequency of 25 hz. This will get you that low end extension that no one else has on the water. Throw in a couple of thousand watts, and you have yourself a solid substage. 

Also, you should to constider adding Damplifier Pro, Heatwave Pro, and Luxury Liner Pro between the passenger area and the engine compartment to help tame some of the obnoxious noise generated by your unmuffled engine and supercharger.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

I'm not totally set on the IDs I just like matching speakers. The Wet Sounds and JLs are the other top candidates.

When I spoke with ID they suggested staying away from the IDMax because the cone is paper and water would destroy it.

I have been thinking about an enclosure for under the seat as long as I either leave room for the lines and fenders. Or even do something tricky with a fiberglass top and make custom to hold all the dock lines and what not.

The hard part about doing an enclosure in the bench would be that the base of the bench is molded into the floor as one unit so you would have to cut, glass, and build everything in place.

The other thing to consider is the floor drain for the cockpit is right in front of the rear bench so the possibility of them getting some spray on them is high during clean up time.

Good idea on the deadener in the rear, I'll definitely do that, heck it might even keep some of heat off the back of the bench.

Does anyone have experience mounting plexi or acrylic mirrors? I'm wanting to add mirrors to the underside of type engine hatch.


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

Good call on the paper cone because I'm not sure how it's treated... I wonder why they reccommend it for marine use on their website if it's not water-ready

You should be able to save room for your lines and fenders and still have room for 2 or 3 subs in enclosures. The extra fabrication work will be well worth the hassle. If you build your box correctly and use round port(s), you should be able to still mount the subs on the base of the bench and also mount your ports there as well. Fiberglass would most likely fit the best and be plenty strong if braced well enough.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Izay123 said:


> Good call on the paper cone because I'm not sure how it's treated... I wonder why they reccommend it for marine use on their website if it's not water-ready
> 
> You should be able to save room for your lines and fenders and still have room for 2 or 3 subs in enclosures. The extra fabrication work will be well worth the hassle. If you build your box correctly and use round port(s), you should be able to still mount the subs on the base of the bench and also mount your ports there as well. Fiberglass would most likely fit the best and be plenty strong if braced well enough.


This is why I love this forum, I would of never thought of going ported in a boat. And if I'm going to do it might as well do it right the first time.

I'm thinking I could build the box out of starboard, (think cutting board) using the front of the bench as the face for the box. I will just need to make some mdf rings for the rear to give the subs something to bite into. Then seal It up from the inside using the sub cut out with some marine sealant and a layer of cloth and resin. That way I have no issues of throwing wet line and fenders in there as it would be totally water proof. 

On the ports, I would need to find some that have a grill or be able to install one as all I would need is for a snake or a mouse to make a home in there.

What subs can you think of with a rubber surround and a non paper cone that work great in a small ported box with 750w @ 2ohms?

Is there a box modeling program for Mac? Hell if I could figure out how to work 4 vertical tubes in them that I could drop my fenders into would be amazing!!!!!


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## Vega-LE (Feb 22, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> What subs can you think of with a rubber surround and a non paper cone that work great in a small ported box with 750w @ 2ohms?
> 
> !


This is one I thought of;

Top quality audio equipment: Revolution Design Audio


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> This is why I love this forum, I would of never thought of going ported in a boat. And if I'm going to do it might as well do it right the first time.
> 
> I'm thinking I could build the box out of starboard, (think cutting board) using the front of the bench as the face for the box. I will just need to make some mdf rings for the rear to give the subs something to bite into. Then seal It up from the inside using the sub cut out with some marine sealant and a layer of cloth and resin. That way I have no issues of throwing wet line and fenders in there as it would be totally water proof.
> 
> ...


I don't know of a box designer for macs, but maybe someone else can chime in. 

I don't reccommend MDF for the rings. It will fall apart after exposure to moisture. I would use the same cutting board material and anchor the subs in with t-nuts.

I reccommend you consider using JL Audio-style grills for your subs and making small matching ones for your port openings (Think of three stainless or chrome horizontal bars anchored to the baffle on the right and left). 

For subs, with the power you will have available, I would get the Polk Audio MM1240 12 inch single 4 ohm voice coil subs. They are marine certified. 

I did a quick sketch-up in WinISD and it looks like (for both subs combined) a 5 Cu. ft box tuned to 28hz (2x4 inch port lenth of 14.5 inches) would do you well. The response would be really flat with a -3db point of 25hz and a -10db point of 20hz--at least without a subsonic filter. At 750 watts, the subs would be reaching a max peak excursion of 23.5mm at 14hz. That's within Polk's published one-way linear excursion and without a subsonic filter!


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Izay123 said:


> I don't reccommend MDF for the rings. It will fall apart after exposure to moisture. I would use the same cutting board material and anchor the subs in with t-nuts.


I was going to coat all the MDF rings in Vinyl Ester resin before I installed them. Same thing on all the components, drill through the gel coat and fiber glass and apply epoxy to holes, use 3M 5200 to bond the resin'd mdf rings to the back of the cut out, then use stainless steel security reverse drive torx machine bolts through the entire assembly and use nylon locking nuts with a dab of red loctite.

I will also have translucent silicone sheeting cut and made into gaskets to go between the driver basket and the fiberglass inner hull.

In off-shore boats, everything has to really be secured down. Catching air off a roller in 4' seas at 65+mph can jar some stuff loose.


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> I was going to coat all the MDF rings in Vinyl Ester resin before I installed them. Same thing on all the components, drill through the gel coat and fiber glass and apply epoxy to holes, use 3M 5200 to bond the resin'd mdf rings to the back of the cut out, then use stainless steel security reverse drive torx machine bolts through the entire assembly and use nylon locking nuts with a dab of red loctite.
> 
> I will also have translucent silicone sheeting cut and made into gaskets to go between the driver basket and the fiberglass inner hull.
> 
> In off-shore boats, everything has to really be secured down. Catching air off a roller in 4' seas at 65+mph can jar some stuff loose.


I like your approach to securing your speakers.  You still might be able to replace the MDF with something else and not have to coat it or worry about moisture getting in through the screw holes. Did you get a chance to check out the subs? 

Oh and BTW, I would make sure to use big enough wire (0 gauge) and more battery than you think you'd need. Your outside system will sound so good you'll want to leave your amps on even when you're stopped. I'm a fan of Kinetiks. They make some good cells.


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## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

smuruppi said:


> I was going to coat all the MDF rings in Vinyl Ester resin before I installed them. Same thing on all the components, drill through the gel coat and fiber glass and apply epoxy to holes, use 3M 5200 to bond the resin'd mdf rings to the back of the cut out, then use stainless steel security reverse drive torx machine bolts through the entire assembly and use nylon locking nuts with a dab of red loctite.
> 
> I will also have translucent silicone sheeting cut and made into gaskets to go between the driver basket and the fiberglass inner hull.
> 
> In off-shore boats, everything has to really be secured down. Catching air off a roller in 4' seas at 65+mph can jar some stuff loose.


Just by some birch. It's less resonant alot lighter and doesn't get destroyed when wet.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Izay123 said:


> I like your approach to securing your speakers.  You still might be able to replace the MDF with something else and not have to coat it or worry about moisture getting in through the screw holes. Did you get a chance to check out the subs?
> 
> Oh and BTW, I would make sure to use big enough wire (0 gauge) and more battery than you think you'd need. Your outside system will sound so good you'll want to leave your amps on even when you're stopped. I'm a fan of Kinetiks. They make some good cells.


You can never over do anything in a boat. If I can find a local supplier for the starboard in 3/4" I'll use that instead of the mdf. That stuff is just hard to find and if you are ordering it, and in amounts needed to make the box and cut the rings, you are looking at $200-$300 for a 4x8 sheet of the stuff.

I took a peek at the Polk subs, looks good, I'm going to take a trip over to hate boat tomorrow to measure the dimensions of the inside bench and figure out how much stuff is going to have to be relocated to make room for a 5cuft box.

I was going to do a 2ga run, but I will prob upgrade amps at some point so I am planning on a 1/0ga run now. I will start with one Kinetik HC2400 and the go from there.

80% of my listening will be engine off.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Well the ported box, or any box for that matter is out.

I was just talking to a buddy that has the same hull and going over the system specs, he just so happened to remind me that under my black mat I have in my rear bench storage locker right now, is the only access port to fuel tank, sender, and fuel pump.

Definatly can't cover any of that up, the coast guard and parks and wildlife are not to fond of their visual inspection access ways being inaccessible.


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

Oh shoot. Do you have the same seats in the front of your boat that are shown in the pics? You could make 2 downfiring enclosures--one for under each seat. You could maybe take the seat off of its mounts to get the box under there and then put it back. 2-3 inches of room off the deck would be enough... 

I would also seriously look at building an enclosure INSIDE the cabin before going IB unsealed under that bench seat. You would just lose a rediculous amout of output and uniqueness by doing that. 

Another idea would be to vent under the front of the bench seat and build a removeable box, or reinforce the compartment and seat bottom, make sure you get good seals everywhere, measure the inside volume, create the appropriate ports and install your subs as if they were IB--but it would be ported enclosure instead.  If the compartment has a drain hole you could plug it with a rubber stopper so it could be drained as neccessary.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Izay123 said:


> Oh shoot. Do you have the same seats in the front of your boat that are shown in the pics? You could make 2 downfiring enclosures--one for under each seat. You could maybe take the seat off of its mounts to get the box under there and then put it back. 2-3 inches of room off the deck would be enough...
> 
> I would also seriously look at building an enclosure INSIDE the cabin before going IB unsealed under that bench seat. You would just lose a rediculous amout of output and uniqueness by doing that.
> 
> Another idea would be to vent under the front of the bench seat and build a removeable box, or reinforce the compartment and seat bottom, make sure you get good seals everywhere, measure the inside volume, create the appropriate ports and install your subs as if they were IB--but it would be ported enclosure instead.  If the compartment has a drain hole you could plug it with a rubber stopper so it could be drained as neccessary.


Well I had this long thought out very well written post made out, I go to insert an img tag and Safari on the iPad crashed. Neat little device but does not like alot of things being thrown at it at once.

As for altering the front seats at all, thats out of the question. They are drop out bolsters made for the type of running I do. The bottom seat cushion actually drops out of the way so you stand up inside of the seats and let your knees and hips take up the shock when running in rough water.

Can't do anything in the cabin, many including myself have gone this route in the past.No sound will ever leave the cabin. In my boat the only place you could put subs is either in the well where the head is, can't do that as I need the head installed for the boat to count as a 2nd home for taxes. Or you make a box and install it on top of the cushion, can't go that route either as I sleep in mine on weekends.

There is no way to seal off the inside of the rear bench with out sealing access to the gas tank, and reengineering the inner gun whales, as the sides of the bench are open to the outer hull of the boat where all the hydraulic and electrical lines run.

This was so much easier in my last boat. The rear bench was removable (this boat the inner liner as all one piece of kevlar, fiberglass and honeycomb coring) I had two down firing Solobarics in a sealed box, you just pull the bench drop the subs in and then put the bench back together.

It looks like if I want to go with subs at all they will have to be IB.

Here are some shots of the front seats with the bolsters down, and both sides of the rear bench locker.










































This is what we are trying to overcome:
YouTube - Whipple Modified Mercury Racing 600SCI

and

YouTube - Baja vs. Supra


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> Well I had this long thought out very well written post made out, I go to insert an img tag and Safari on the iPad crashed. Neat little device but does not like alot of things being thrown at it at once.
> 
> As for altering the front seats at all, thats out of the question. They are drop out bolsters made for the type of running I do. The bottom seat cushion actually drops out of the way so you stand up inside of the seats and let your knees and hips take up the shock when running in rough water.
> 
> ...




Wow that's dissapointing!  

If there is no way to do any type of removeable enclosure, your best bet is to fit as many large subs as you can--MINIMUM 2 12's but 4 would be better. You should be able to fit at least 4 10 inch Polks under that bench. You should also get another sub amp. 

I have never heard an impressive substage in a boat from 1 or 2 subs mounted IB. If you can fit 4 12's, you will be better off. According to WinISD, you'd need 4 12's and 1500 watts to reach the same output at 30hz as two 12's ported with 750 watts. 

The other area you can focus on is sound deadening and TONS of heat protection and insulation (luxury liner pro) between you and the engine. This will make your whole system sound better and louder. I'm sure right now it's probably hard to hear yourself think with that monster of an engine SCREAMING


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Izay123 said:


> Wow that's dissapointing!
> 
> If there is no way to do any type of removeable enclosure, your best bet is to fit as many large subs as you can--MINIMUM 2 12's but 4 would be better. You should be able to fit at least 4 10 inch Polks under that bench. You should also get another sub amp.
> 
> ...


Just thinking out loud here, what about a pair of shallow mount 12"s, each in their own box, add an extra 1" ring around the outside of the driver, then seal the ring to the front of the bench and place the grills on the outside of the bench. This way I can make the boxes extra wide to use up some of that extra space where the locker goes into the sides under the boarding steps and cup holders. If the box is no more than 4" - 6" deep it won't take up any room, will still allow access to all the rigging, can be slipped in sideways through the bench openings. The drivers would be towards the outside and get somewhat of a corner load effect.

Once again just trying to find a viable solution.


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## Guy (Feb 16, 2006)

I would rule out using Starboard as a sub enclosure material, it's about as rigid as macaroni al dente. Fiberglass is the best choice IME on a boat. 
And watch out if you go ported, with the issue of water intrusion into the enclosure. But who knows, it may help out with standing waves. 
Figgered somebody had to get a standing waves joke in here somewhere.


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## Izay123 (Jun 9, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> Just thinking out loud here, what about a pair of shallow mount 12"s, each in their own box, add an extra 1" ring around the outside of the driver, then seal the ring to the front of the bench and place the grills on the outside of the bench. This way I can make the boxes extra wide to use up some of that extra space where the locker goes into the sides under the boarding steps and cup holders. If the box is no more than 4" - 6" deep it won't take up any room, will still allow access to all the rigging, can be slipped in sideways through the bench openings. The drivers would be towards the outside and get somewhat of a corner load effect.
> 
> Once again just trying to find a viable solution.



I like it. Those Polk's are really shallow--about 4 5/8" mounting depth.. That means you could build your super shallow box and use the extra area on the sides. It would just take a little more fiberglass work. You can use flexible ports or make it bend so that the opening would be straight but the back side of the port would run parallel to the bench seat face. You should be able to fit the fiber box in less than 6" of depth.  If you neeeeed to, you can make a smaller box and tune it differently.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Pardon my English but, that's a sick ****ing boat. Would love to see a couple pics of the whole package. 
The system in my friends boat that we basically live in during the summer has a MB Quart overhead 3-way set (wakeboard style) and a 12" Polk under the bow. Much smaller and simpler than what you have planned but it works great. Loud and clear even when being drug around the lake.


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## dougc (Oct 24, 2009)

Nice Outlaw! Congrats - I am wrapping up my build in my smaller Crownline LPX and just got it wet for the first time this season with the new audio gear I installed over the winter. I have the same H/U with the both remotes (hafta get the floaty one so you can still control from your buddies boat or the beach). This is the only "marine" grade equipment I have. I'll want something different by the time the equipment goes bad - each boat gets bigger, right?!

I have the Mag 350 MPI and open exaust too, and at 60 you really need some bass in front of you. I used a couple of ID8 (sealed .6 cu ft) in the kicks and they really make the difference. I have the 13w7 (ported) in a glassed enclosure in the engine compartment (on JL 1000/1) which you can definitely hear at top speed, but much of the +50hz gets lost with the exhaust when cruising. I have the 8s HP/LP at 40 and 100 hz to fill the gap. I have the older JL XR 650 components and they are perfect for loud yet good SQ. Another thing that I had trouble with is that when we are floating, the bass is rediculous loud when you are in the water. I added the JL remote gain knobs to the 8" subs to turn them up a little and to turn the 13" down. I save some battery life too. It's not like car audio when you get it set and it stays. I really like to adjust depending on the music, the speed, or occupants. The best part of the setup is that it's not a wakeboard boat style, shrill midrangy, obnoxious sounding rack system. It actually has good SQ while cruising, which I'm guessing is what you want for a nice offshore. Happy hunting this summer with the new magnet.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

Thanks for e compliment, I think I'm going to like the Outlaw. It was one of those things where I was looking for a Sunsation or a Sonic, but the dealer had this one that had been ordered with the 600sci and he cut me a deal I couldn't walk away from. It is a bit different from my past boats, last season I had a Four Winns H220SS with the 320hp Volvo, before that I had a Baja 232 Boss and a 19' Chappy SSi before that. 

I had subs in the SS under the helm facing reward and they did work well, even over the side exit corsa exhaust which is what you should have on the lpx.

I took her out this weekend for the first time since I got it back with the upgraded motor and the new imco drive, and its very apparent I need to reprop. Nice thing is my prop guy is going to lab me one now but once I get the stereo in we will weight the boat again and then add some cup for some stern lift to counter the weight of the subs and batteries.

Enough boat talk.

I was going to order my equipment this morning but decided to hold off. I found a different set of amps I think I'm going to try, the reviews look pretty good and I'll pick up a lot more power.

Current config:
MB Quart DSC4125 (250W @ 2ohms x 4)
MB Quart DSC1500.1d (1500W @ 1ohm / 750W @ 2ohms)
ID CXS64 V.2 + CX64 Parallel @ 2ohms for the fronts
ID CXS62 V.2 @ 2ohms for the rears

I have not picked a sub yet, but I did take some measurements. I will do a side ported box and have quite a bit of room to work with, will build the box out of 3/4" mdf then coat the inside and outside with resin and paint it white. I would like to go with 2 12"s each in their own enclosure and use dual 4 ohm subs as the MB Quart is stable to 1 ohm, so each sub would get 750W which I think will give me enough power to hear it over the blower and exhaust.

I'll mount the sub to the enclosure, but then cut 12" holes in the rear bench in front of the speaker and mount the grill to that. Unless you think having it totally inside the bench with the ports firing into the gunwhales will be fine. Only stipulation is I need the sub to be less than 6" in depth, ideally less than 4" so the box will fit entirely behind the top lib of the bench and not impede access to the fuel tank, bilge pump, battery switch, or the hydraulic pumps for the engine lift, or sea and sand strainer.

Since I have access under the floor where the boxes are going to go I was going to epoxy in some bolts up through the floor and make mounting flanges off the box to secure it with some wing nuts so I can pull them easily if needed.

Once again thanks all you guys for the help, I know I've been asking a lot of questions but I would rather only have to buy everything once for the install. Next season we can add to it, I already have an idea for two outdoor speakers mounted on poles that will drop into carriers mounted on the rear deck so I can have a pair of speakers firing out to the water when tied up at party cove or the islands.


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## darinof (Feb 6, 2009)

I have my boat system done already but if I have to start all over again I will do it like this.

(3) 2400HC Kinetik batteries 
Clarion DRZ9255
(2) Alpine PDX4150
(1) Alpine PDX1600
(8) Image Dynamics CXS64
(8) Selenium ST350 Super Tweeters
(2) iDMax 12" D4 

I recommend you to try a pair of those Selenium tweeters setting the crossover at 5500Hz or above. They were a really good improvement on my boat system.

Rigth now I have 
(2) 2400HC Kinetik batteries, clarion drz9255, (3 pairs) MBquart NKF 692, (1 pair) JL Audio M770-CCS-SG, (2 pairs) Selenium ST350 Super Tweeters and a one Kicker L5 10" on a ported box. Powered by (2) JL Audio M6450 amps.

I will change the amps to alpine pdx and add another battery but I'm happy hoh my boat system is right now.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

How did you stuff all that equipment into a boat?!?

Boating season is in full swing and it's getting to hot to be installing gear so I have yet to do anything except pick up some gear from time to time.

So far I have acquired:
(2) MB Quart DSC4125
(1) MB Quart DSC2000.1D
Alpine iDA-X100M
(3) Alpine remotes (cabin, transom, helm)
Audison power ground distro block
(2) Kinetik HC2400


Right now I'm running the new Alpine head, 2 pairs of Polk db 6.5"s and a buddies PDX4.100.

Sounds better than stock but I still want to rip everything out and have some fun, I keep eyeballing a couple pairs of the ID HLCD horns to mate to the CSX mid bass drivers and a pair of 12"s in a ported fiberglass & carbon fiber enclosure under the rear bench.


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## darinof (Feb 6, 2009)

I'm going to try a DD500b sub this week to replace the ID's that I have. My goal is to have good output using lees power and smaller enclosure. I will let you know how it worked out.


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## Audiolife (Dec 19, 2008)

When you guys store your boats or bring them in remember to put your batteries on a good battery charger or battery tender that has a float voltage of 13.6 to 13.8 (for agm's like the kinetik) or so. If you do this and dont skip weeks/months from doing this your electrical will stay healthy for a LONG TIME.


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## darinof (Feb 6, 2009)

I just finished my enclosure with one set of mini body CD1e ID horns, a pair of 6" Dayton mids and a pair of Dayton crossovers at 2000 Hz. The result is very good.The sound is really really loud and clear now. I don't think I have to add more speakers to my boat. Just have to work on the subwoofer enclosure.


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

darinof said:


> I just finished my enclosure with one set of mini body CD1e ID horns, a pair of 6" Dayton mids and a pair of Dayton crossovers at 2000 Hz. The result is very good.The sound is really really loud and clear now. I don't think I have to add more speakers to my boat. Just have to work on the subwoofer enclosure.


Do you have any photos, I'd like to see that setup.

On a side not things have changed and I was made an offer I couldn't refuse and sold the Baja. I am picking up a 20' Monterey bow rider, that happens to have no stereo installed. No tower on the Monetery yet but I see one in the future so I need to take that into account for expandability. With he new layout I have a drivers and passenger helm that would be a great platform to add a set of horns to.

Right now I'm just going to throw in some basic stuff to get by until I can get a real build going. On the list is a Alpine iDA-X100M, HiFonics Zeus 5 channel amp, 2 pair of Polk db651 coaxials, a pair of Polk db6501 components and a JL 10W3.

I know very boring, but I can have it all installed for the 4th.


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## darinof (Feb 6, 2009)

smuruppi said:


> Do you have any photos, I'd like to see that setup.


Here are some


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

That is amazing, I wish you were closer so I could give a listen!

Looks like I'll be selling my boat this weekend and after having the install done for a month moving it to something else.

It's too hard going from a series of go-fasts to a bow rider, I'm tired of getting out run by my friends and getting beat up when the water gets rough. I used to make the run from party cove back to my slip at 60-75mph no matter what the water was doing, now it's 10-15mph and if it's even a little rough out I feel like the boat is going to crack and fall apart.


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## darinof (Feb 6, 2009)

If you are buying a new boat maybe you can use some amplifiers that I'm selling
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/classifieds/87317-5-jl-audio-marine-amplifiers.html


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## smuruppi (Mar 4, 2007)

The only audio gear staying with the boat are the head unit and the polks that will be run off the head unit.

The two JL 300/4 v2s and the JL 5001/ v2 are staying with me.


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