# Audison Bit Ten Install Issues. HELP



## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

I just finished installing a Bit Ten in my car, but I'm having some problems. 

In my car I have two speakers up front (channels 1 & 2) on passive crossovers and rear hatch speakers (on 3 & 4 Full Range). 

I took the factory signals after the amp and wired them into the Bit Ten. 

I used the rear hatch speakers (5.25" full range stock speakers) as an input into the Audison on Channels 1 and 2. Then I took the OEM sub signal and fed that input into Channel 3 and left the input for channel 4 empty. The car has a small 8" sub with no setting but a bass slider in the OEM deck. Next, I hooked up my RCA cables to my 4 channel amp and the sub out on the Audison to the sub amp. 

The good: Channels 1 and 2 are playing wonderfully but I'm getting sub signals in channels 3 and 4. I went into the software and everything is set to full range and I even played around with high pass filters for channels 3 and 4 with no cut off at all. They should have gone silent, If it was a sub signal but that is what is sounds like. They rattle and distort but If I switch the RCA cables from 3 & 4 into 1 and 2 on the Audison those speakers play fine. 

I'm thinking that I may have made a mistake in wiring and should not have wired the oem sub input into the Audison on channel 3. I figured that the Audison would need the lower frequencies to create the sub frequencies. I was thinking that maybe I should just re-wire everything and wire the OEM door speakers into the Audison input on channels 1 and 2 and the rear hatch speakers into 3 and 4 and let the processor re-create the bass notes. My other option is to bypass the Audison and run the sub independently. My sub amp has line inputs. I also have a bass knob. Any help is appreciated. I'm pretty lost right now. I did the easy checks too like changing out RCA cables, checking the amps, etc. I even re-set the Audison to factory specs.


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## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

Oh man, here's what you need to do. Break down the signal, on paper, or in your mind, break it down from beginning to end.

So, it starts at the OEM H.U., which was...???? I must have missed that, what kind of car do you have?

So, it leaves the factory H.U. and enters the factory amplifier. 

Stop there. Can you grab the signal now? Before the factory amp? If so, great.

If not, why not? 

So, if you must grab signal after the factory amplifier, are there any signals that are full range? If so, use these. If not, you're going to have to sum multiple inputs together in the audison.

This is done via the input naming scheme. Depending on how you "name" or "label" each input will determine how the audison sums the signals together. You have to be able to determine the frequency range that an input signal is supplying. 

I fear that you may be in for a long confusing ride, but I'll keep checking back periodically to see if you've made any progress. There are other people here who are probably better at putting these things into words than me. Hopefully someone else chimes in soon and I don't confuse you too much!


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

It's a 2014 Chevy Coupe with the 10 speaker BOSE setup - stock HU.

There is a diagram showing the rear hatch speakers as full range. 

In the Audison Manual it shows picking up the signal after the OEM amplifier. The processor, as I understand it, will take the input signal and remove any equalization.


It's pretty simple I took the full range speakers from the back of my car and inputted them into the front channels of the Audison (1 & 2) and then inputted the sub signal form my oem system into 3 and left channel 4 alone. 

Channels 1 and 2 play great but 3 and 4 are not putting out a proper full range signal. It seems like it's putting out a sub signal. I am also running a sub amp and using the sub out on the Audison which seems to be working fine but I had to jack the gain up which doesn't make sense since the amp is an Alpine 300watt. I don't think the Audison likes the sub signal on channel 3 input but it should have summed the signals to create a full range that I should be able to send to any channel. 

Thanks




Niick said:


> Oh man, here's what you need to do. Break down the signal, on paper, or in your mind, break it down from beginning to end.
> 
> So, it starts at the OEM H.U., which was...???? I must have missed that, what kind of car do you have?
> 
> ...





Niick said:


> Oh man, here's what you need to do. Break down the signal, on paper, or in your mind, break it down from beginning to end.
> 
> So, it starts at the OEM H.U., which was...???? I must have missed that, what kind of car do you have?
> 
> ...


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## strohw (Jan 27, 2016)

I would suggest grabbing a oem harness and running the output from your HU back to the bit 10. The bit 10 can help fix EQ issues but it won't remove anything else that bose amp is doing to the signal.

For your issue, I would suggest running through the I/O wizard again and confirming your Master Signals. Look at Page 22-23 in the manual. You could also try Setting FL/FR in the master signals and unhooking the sub input on channel 3 to test for a fix.


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## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

It sounds like you pretty much have this figured out. It's all in how you set up the input naming scheme during the initial setup procedure that will determine which inputs ultimately end up as which outputs. Are you using a DRC? If so, and your rear hatch signals that you tapped into for input channels 1/2 are indeed full range, then those are the ONLY two signals you'll need. A single set of L/R full range inputs is the most ideal way to go about feeding signal into the DSP. 

FYI though, I wouldn't simply bypass the DSP when it comes to your sub, or ANY speakers, as the DSP has considerable latency. Haven't tested the bit ten recently, but I seem to remember the Bit One being around 11ms of latency. Meaning it takes a signal at least 11ms to come out the other end, with all delay in the DSP set to 0ms. 

If you did bypass the DSP for your sub, it would be the equivalent of adding 11ms (or however much latency the bit ten has) of delay to every speaker EXCEPT the sub


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

Hi,

I really don't have anything figured out but I'm getting closer. I read page 23 in the manual and it talks about setting up the inputs to be summed and then sent to the output channels. First a master channel has to be setup. 

I didn't know about this option and what is confusing the Bit Ten is setup so you can use it without a PC. I'll have to play around with setting up the master channel. 

I'l give this a try, however if someone wants to set this up without using a PC how do you setup the master channel. I would think the Audison would just sum all the input channels.


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## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

traderfjp said:


> Hi,
> 
> I really don't have anything figured out but I'm getting closer. I read page 23 in the manual and it talks about setting up the inputs to be summed and then sent to the output channels. First a master channel has to be setup.
> 
> ...


Oh......hell I don't know, I've never attempted to do it without using a pc.


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## strohw (Jan 27, 2016)

Sorry, I used a PC as well so I can't help.


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

I have a PC I was just stating that it should default to summing all the channels and it should work. Anyway, I went through the wizard via my PC and picked the channels to sum and once again channels 1 and 2 played great but nothing for channels 3 and 4. Pulling my hair out.


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

I played with the wizard but I didn't see a way to name my inputs. If this a selection somewhere. It is not an option in the wizard. Not that I saw. 

Thanks again.



strohw said:


> I would suggest grabbing a oem harness and running the output from your HU back to the bit 10. The bit 10 can help fix EQ issues but it won't remove anything else that bose amp is doing to the signal.
> 
> For your issue, I would suggest running through the I/O wizard again and confirming your Master Signals. Look at Page 22-23 in the manual. You could also try Setting FL/FR in the master signals and unhooking the sub input on channel 3 to test for a fix.


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

I ran the wizard again and just used the back full range speakers for processing and everything is working. I was ready to rip it out and throw it against the wall. Now that it's working it has so many great features and it's dead silent. Thanks for all the help.


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## traderfjp (Feb 1, 2016)

I wanted to add some information for the next guy who searches for this article. Basically grab a full range signal and if you don't have one the Audison will sum the signal and remove all EQ once you run the wizard. There are sine waves to setup the unit but basically I turned the sensitivity down on the Audison. There are little controls on the front of the unit. My amps are about 1/4 way because I bought 150 watt amps. I probably should have done with 100watt amps. Anyway, I can heartily recommend this processor. It's easy to setup once you know what you're doing and it has oddles of settings.


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