# Mmats HiFi-6150D vs. Zapco Z150.6 LX



## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

I've been saving up my funds for a future purchase of a Zapco Z150.6 LX. I'm only about half way there, but I've seen another amp that has my interest. It's the Mmats HiFi-6150D. Power wise, they are pretty close (150W x 6 RMS). If you bridge channels 5 and 6, the Mmats will give up to 1000 watts at 1 ohm. The Zapco will not go down to 1 ohm, but that is not a concern for me. The sub I will be using is a 4 ohm sub. But, subwoofer performance is not a main concern for me. It is how well the front stage sounds is what I am most concerned about. 

I know very little about Mmats. Their website is very minimal, especially with specifications and even with just general information about their products.

I know the Mmats is a full-range Class D and the Zapco is a Class AB. Class AB or Class D doesn't make much of a difference to me, although I have alwlays used AB.

I have read many comments about people's experiences with Zapco amps. But, I have not read anything about anyone's experience with Mmats.

Is there anybody that can shed some light to me about the Mmats HiFi-6150D. How would you compare it to the Zapco Z150.6 LX?


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## Driver of 102080 (Sep 19, 2016)

Bridging 5&6 on the Mmatts gives you only 450 @ 2 ohms. Just useful info I found when I was interested in the Mmatts amp. Info on that amp online is a pita.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

Driver of 102080 said:


> Bridging 5&6 on the Mmatts gives you only 450 @ 2 ohms. Just useful info I found when I was interested in the Mmatts amp. Info on that amp online is a pita.
> 
> Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk



Where did you find that info? Did you purchase an Mmatts? If not, what did you get and why did you choose it over the Mmats?


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## rob3980 (Jun 11, 2010)

Matt hall recently did a review of a zapco z-Lx amp and it got a tier1 which is the best. Stick w the zapco imo. Here's the article

https://issuu.com/diogoianaconi/docs/amplifier_shootout


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## Driver of 102080 (Sep 19, 2016)

dsw1204 said:


> Where did you find that info? Did you purchase an Mmatts? If not, what did you get and why did you choose it over the Mmats?


I don't remember where I found the info it took a lot searching. I love the amp it's a beast doesn't get hot ever never cut out. Sounds amazing running jbl 660gti's active and a sub a 1 omh. I am using a dsp so I cant talk about crossovers. Oh yeah Made in USA too . big deciding factor for me.

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## Porsche (Jun 29, 2008)

i use the zapco zx amps and they are very nice amps, built very well and work flawlessly, cant recommend them enough not to mention they are a friendly company to deal with


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## Got-Four-Eights (Sep 10, 2011)

Porsche said:


> i use the zapco zx amps and they are very nice amps, built very well and work flawlessly, cant recommend them enough not to mention they are a friendly company to deal with


I thought I saw LX amps in your car? They had the gold badges right?


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

If size and efficiency is a concern, MMATs all day. But I like using stuff most say isn't a SQ brand. At least for amps.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

What DC said about size is no joke.. the z150.6lx is like a surfboard as I own one....If I had to worry about space requirements... the 6150 would be a no brainer. And Mmats makes very good amps. Now how they compare in the "SQ" department I honestly can give no input on that, but I personally would enjoy using Mmats products in my car anyday.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

What kind of price would one expect to see at a brick and mortar store for the HiFi-6150D? I am still leaning towards the Zapco and my dealer is offering me a pretty nice price on it. And, I've been wanting that particular model for some time, now.

Not much info on the MMATS website as to where to find a dealer. I guess I will have to call them. Having the marine grade version would be kind of nice for me as my old Accord has a water leakage problem in the trunk. But, the amp will be screwed to the back of the back seat, so I really don't think I will have any issues with water, anyhow.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

Each dealer will be different. I'd give them a call. It won't be cheap. It's an American assembled amp so you pay a little extra for that. They had a video on YouTube showing the building line.


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## el_bob-o (Nov 8, 2008)

DC/Hertz said:


> Each dealer will be different. I'd give them a call. It won't be cheap. It's an American assembled amp so you pay a little extra for that. They had a video on YouTube showing the building line.


I've been trying to locate that video, I remember seeing it when it came out and it was impressive how much of the amplifiers are made in house. My Youtube search skills seem to be lacking though.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

I couldn't find it either but I didn't try very hard.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

dsw1204 said:


> What kind of price would one expect to see at a brick and mortar store for the HiFi-6150D?


I was quoted a price of $1000 locally, which I feel I could find a better deal elsewhere. Retail is 1199 on the mmats website.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

sq2k1 said:


> I was quoted a price of $1000 locally, which I feel I could find a better deal elsewhere. Retail is 1199 on the mmats website.


The internals seem to be pretty nice on the MMATS, but I still think the 5 or 6 channel amp with the best guts is the Zapco Z150.6 LX, even though it looks like they made some changes there. My local dealer assures me that, at that power, it is still the go-to-amp, with regards to 5 or 6-channel amps.


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## Porsche (Jun 29, 2008)

dsw1204 said:


> The internals seem to be pretty nice on the MMATS, but I still think the 5 or 6 channel amp with the best guts is the Zapco Z150.6 LX, even though it looks like they made some changes there. My local dealer assures me that, at that power, it is still the go-to-amp, with regards to 5 or 6-channel amps.


im installing a z150.6lx amps in my SUV, cant go wrong IMO, its a shame that post last week questioned there quality and ethics prematurely

i would take a mapco LX over the mmats anyway, JMO good luck


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

MMATs for me. I doubt you would hear any difference. The MMATs is going to have a huge efficiency advantage. And I know other MMATs lines can take some abuse.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Wish I would have looked at the Mmats line prior to going with Zapco.... not that I have an issue with Zapco but the 6150 impresses the hell out of me. And Mmats efficiency is down right awesome especially on their mono amps.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

I'm waiting on DD to bring out their 6 channel. 250x6 at 4ohm and a foot print of 15x7

Msrp right at $1000. So a good dealer can let it go for $800. 
S&I built with a volt meter and clip light on the remote.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Never really took much interest in DD as I never heard it in person or used any products from them. In other words, I know squat about them.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

I've used nothing but DD amps for the past 6 years. POWA! And small foot print. If I had my way I'd have a 3 pack of the SS6 2 channels. 550x2 at 4ohm. 
I can't wait to go back to a DD woofer but other stuff has to get done first. The IDQ is doing a good job for now.


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## bassfreak85 (Jul 26, 2009)

mmats and zapco are similar in quality. Id get mmats only because its born and raised in the usa


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

There is one thing I failed to notice with the Zapco Z150.6 LX. It doesn't have any fuses built into the amp. Does anybody know the the the current draw is for this amp? Every amp I have ever known has had fuses built into the amp. It's not that it makes any difference, but it's just something I have never had to fuss with before.

Another question to ask: 

Is is more advantageous to have the fuses built into the amp or is it better to have those fuses in the cables connecting to the amp?


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

I just installed a z150.6 - put the fuse inline like this:









Actually preferred versus blade fuses because it's easier to get to in the event I ever need to. 


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

unix_usr said:


> I just installed a z150.6 - put the fuse inline like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Okay, but what is the fuse rating of the amp? I can't determine the size of the fuses from your pic.


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

The user manual states to use a 100 amp fuse - I've got one on order buy I only had 150 amp already so that's what I used for now.

See: https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/0bf3d1_3ef8f22cf7de47ec81753b2e2b5db27d.pdf for the fuse ratings.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

Take its highest power, 2ohm rating and x 10. Take a zero off. That's your fuse. 
Most larger amps don't have fuses built in. It's not like a fuse will blow before the amp pops smoke anyway. A fuse can handle a high amount of burst current. 
Back when meca use to class us by fuse size we could use a 35 amp fuse on a 5k for 30 second runs. Most of the time it wouldn't blow. I got it down to a 15amp for 3 second burps.
You can just fuse for the cable size. That way it won't catch fire.


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

DC/Hertz said:


> Take its highest power, 2ohm rating and x 10. Take a zero off. That's your fuse.
> Most larger amps don't have fuses built in. It's not like a fuse will blow before the amp pops smoke anyway. A fuse can handle a high amount of burst current.
> Back when meca use to class us by fuse size we could use a 35 amp fuse on a 5k for 30 second runs. Most of the time it wouldn't blow. I got it down to a 15amp for 3 second burps.
> You can just fuse for the cable size. That way it won't catch fire.


OK - not trying to troll here... but I *have* to say something here:

_"rating and x 10. Take a zero off."_ ... uh - really? So multiply by ten, then divide by ten? Why bother... a more accurate assumption would be based on ohms law; assuming the constant impedance of 2ohms and assuming the amplifier is 100% efficient (obviously won't be) - one should take the total wattage: power (watts) = voltage (volts) * current (amps)

So a 1200 watt amp = 1200 watts / 12 volts = 100 amps

This is basic arithmetic here, nothing fancy - I get the slow fuse blow/rating for old school competition, but that argument is entirely out of scope for the OP question. Electrically speaking, an amplifier cannot produce more power than it consumes to do so - thus your statement of using the amplifiers rated output is very valid, you math just made little sense to me.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

unix_usr said:


> OK - not trying to troll here... but I *have* to say something here:
> 
> _"rating and x 10. Take a zero off."_ ... uh - really? So multiply by ten, then divide by ten? Why bother... a more accurate assumption would be based on ohms law; assuming the constant impedance of 2ohms and assuming the amplifier is 100% efficient (obviously won't be) - one should take the total wattage: power (watts) = voltage (volts) * current (amps)
> 
> ...


Okay, I am a little confused. At 2 ohms, the amp puts out 250 watts RMS. Using your math (250W x 6 = 1500W. 1500W / 12 = 125 amps). Shouldn't the amp rating be 125 watts? But, Zapco recommends 100 watts.

I can't figure out how you got 1200 watts for the amp. 150W at 4 ohms x 6 = 900 watts. 250 watts at 2 ohms x 6 at = 1500 watts. I figure it should be considered a 1500 watt amp. A 1500 watt amp should be fused at 125 amps, right?

Can you see why I am confused? It looks like I should be using a 125 amp fuse, right? But, since Zapco recommends a 100 amp fuse I guess I will be using that. I know that is not much of a difference, but I just want to get it right. A 100 amp fuse is the safer choice and what is recommended, but according to Ohms law (what was quoted earlier in this thread) it should be a 125 amp fuse. I am lost as to how the numbers come about, meaning how Zapco comes about recommending the 100 amp fuse.

Can anyone straighten me out, here?


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

unix_usr said:


> OK - not trying to troll here... but I *have* to say something here:
> 
> _"rating and x 10. Take a zero off."_ ... uh - really? So multiply by ten, then divide by ten? Why bother... a more accurate assumption would be based on ohms law; assuming the constant impedance of 2ohms and assuming the amplifier is 100% efficient (obviously won't be) - one should take the total wattage: power (watts) = voltage (volts) * current (amps)
> 
> ...


Well we didn't have slow burn fuses(illegal) and it wasn't that long ago, 4 years. 
It's the same way you can get a rough idea judging by onboard fusing for what the amp is capable of. 
It works. It's just a fuse.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

dsw1204 said:


> Okay, I am a little confused. At 2 ohms, the amp puts out 250 watts RMS. Using your math (250W x 6 = 1500W. 1500W / 12 = 125 amps). Shouldn't the amp rating be 125 watts? But, Zapco recommends 100 watts.
> 
> I can't figure out how you got 1200 watts for the amp. 150W at 4 ohms x 6 = 900 watts. 250 watts at 2 ohms x 6 at = 1500 watts. I figure it should be considered a 1500 watt amp. A 1500 watt amp should be fused at 125 amps, right?
> 
> ...


They take into account daily use. It will be fine. Like I said, if it's going to blow no fuse will stop it. The main goal of inline fusing is to protect the wire from a short. A short in the wiring will blow a fuse fast.


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Sorry - I was just using 1200 watts as an example (mostly because it divides evenly by 12, was not in reference to this specific amplifier)... and the point we were both making was to treat as a general-rule-of-thumb, or guideline in absence of a manufacturers recommendation.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Per the z150.6lx manual, it is recommended to use a 100 amp fuse. As was stated earlier.... and for some stupid reason I failed to see it was already stated....oh well.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

sq2k1 said:


> Per the z150.6lx manual, it is recommended to use a 100 amp fuse. As was stated earlier.... and for some stupid reason I failed to see it was already stated....oh well.


Yeah, I saw that in the pdf manual sent by unix_usr. On a side note, I notice some people using multiple fuses (for example here 2 x 50 amp fuses instead of 1 x 100 amp fuse). Is there any benefit to using multiple fuses as compared to using one bigger (same amount of amperage as two smaller ones) fuse?


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Electrically speaking no - 2 50amp fuses in parallel = 1 100amp limit. But in reality for a fuse of this amperage to actually blow it's usually a dead short of some type - at this kind of amperage fire is a legit consideration too. In which case I would dissuade someone from having multiple fuses over a single one. In my setup (per pic above) I have one fuse for each amplifier (Z150.6 lx and a Z3KW). 


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

unix_usr said:


> Electrically speaking no - 2 50amp fuses in parallel = 1 100amp limit. But in reality for a fuse of this amperage to actually blow it's usually a dead short of some type - at this kind of amperage fire is a legit consideration too. In which case I would dissuade someone from having multiple fuses over a single one. In my setup (per pic above) I have one fuse for each amplifier (Z150.6 lx and a Z3KW).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My question was misspoken. What I meant to inquire about is some amps have multiple fuses built into them. Some amps have only one fuse built into them. My amp has 4 x 25 amp fuses. Would I get the same protection if it had just 1 x 100 amp fuse?


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

As stated earlier - electrically speaking they would be equal under normal operating conditions (4 x 25amp in parrallel is the same as 1 100amp in series/inline).

Just a matter of economics (both cost and space) - 25 amp fuses are more or less standard off the shelf component (easy/cheap to source) and their respective connectors as well. Secondary to that, they typically take less physical space too.

Check out Zapco DC series amps - they actually have mini-ANL fuses right on them... ironically an argument against the above  - but goes to show it really can just be a matter of design/preference by the amplifier manufacturer.


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## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

Sorry if this is a stupid question but I can't find an answer. Can you only bridge the last four channels and end up with a 150x2 and 500x2? I guess mmats would be 150x2 and 300x2? Has anybody ever tried to run them that way?


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

dsw1204 said:


> My question was misspoken. What I meant to inquire about is some amps have multiple fuses built into them. Some amps have only one fuse built into them. *My amp has 4 x 25 amp fuses. Would I get the same protection if it had just 1 x 100 amp fuse?*


^No.

The individual and sometimes multiple fuses built-in to the chassis of an amplifier are to protect EACH Power Supply/and output circuit within the amp. Depending on the specific amplifier, and number of channels it has, it will have a separate internal power supply for either a Single Output Channel (usually a mono, subwoofer channel), or it will have One Power Supply for each grouped PAIR of channels, e.g. channels 1 & 2 are a "stereo pair".

This is done so that if an electronic component fails in just one section of the amplifier, that particular fuse will blow to isolate it so as not to affect or damage the other Power Supplies, channels, or sections within the amplifier.

So in the case of the _dsw1204_'s existing amplifier, it has Four, 25 amp fuses. Generally, the first two fuses are for each of the channel pairs: channels 1&2 and 3&4 respectively. Channel 5 and Channel 6 might each have their own Power Supply, so the remaining two fuses individually protect the circuits within the amplifier for channels 5 & 6. (This all depends on the number of channels a particular amplifier has and how they are configured). 

Therefore, the amplifier's built-in fuses are designed to protect the Amplifier itself. You should always have a separate fuse to protect the WIRE that supplies power to Each amplifier. This is most commonly done at or within 18" of the battery if it's a Single Amplifier System.

If you have a multi-amplifier system, the main, large-gauge power supply wire should be fused appropriately at the battery as above (to protect the wire). In addition, each separate run of power wire to the individual amplifiers should be fused with an appropriately rated fuse to protect Each of those WIRES. This is most commonly accomplished with a fused distribution block.

If your amplifiers do not have built-in fuse protection, the fuse on each power wire feeding each amp should be fused with the rating the manufacturer specifies, but it must not exceed the amperage capability of the wire itself. And that number will change depending on the true gauge (AWG) of the particular wire AND the Length of that wire. Longer runs of wire have a lower current (amperage) capability.

One of the most Comprehesive System & Power Wire Calculators that I have seen is Rockford Fosgate's:

*Rockford Fosgate Amplifier/System Power Wire Calculator*

EDITED for accuracy!


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

The zapco z150.6lx does not have built in fuses. It is recommended to fuse the amp externally with a 100A fuse. I own one and that is exactly how I have it done.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

sq2k1 said:


> The zapco z150.6lx does not have built in fuses. It is recommended to fuse the amp externally with a 100A fuse. I own one and that is exactly how I have it done.


That is correct. My bad. I was referencing _dsw1204_'s statement that "my amp has 4 x 25 amp fuses". I've EDITED my post above.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

bbfoto said:


> That is correct. My bad. I was referencing _dsw1204_'s statement that "my amp has 4 x 25 amp fuses". I've EDITED my post above.


Yeah, my current amp is an Arc Audio KS900.6. Seriously considering the Z150.6. Can get a pretty good price from my dealer, but still a bit pricey. Been saving my dimes (and dollars). Hopefully, soon.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Dsw, Have you looked at the new Z-SP amps that Zapco will be offering soon? 


Zapco Z-SP Series

I found a very interesting comment in the description of these amps as well: • Capacitors with lower internal resistance and lower inductance (only just now appearing in the LX amps). This makes me wonder after the debacle of the "V1" and "V2" Z-LX amps that was discussed in another thread.....hmmmmmmmm. Looking at the internals I see some very striking similarities to the parts used in the Z-SP as compared to the "V2" Z-LX amps.


Link to other thread


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

sq2k1 said:


> Dsw, Have you looked at the new Z-SP amps that Zapco will be offering soon?
> 
> 
> Zapco Z-SP Series
> ...


Yes, I followed that thread very closely and contributed to it, as well. I was a little concerned, but did not sway me from considering the Z150.6 LX. I like the Z-LX series because it just amplifies the signal, nothing else. I, recently, picked up a Mosconi 6to8 V8 and that will take care of the crossover responsibilities. I really am sold on the Z-LX series. I don't know of any other manufacturer that makes an amp that only amplifies (doesn't fiddle with the signal, whatsoever...other than amplifying it) and has that same level of high-end componentry.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Not trying to sway you by any means, I just found the similarities a bit surprising after the fact. I'm using my z150.6lx and its a solid amp. No complaints at all other than the sheer size of it.


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## dsw1204 (Mar 23, 2015)

sq2k1 said:


> Not trying to sway you by any means, I just found the similarities a bit surprising after the fact. I'm using my z150.6lx and its a solid amp. No complaints at all other than the sheer size of it.


Are you telling me that, if you knew in advance, you would have chosen the Z-SP series instead of the Z-LX?


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

I find the build and approach to the new series interesting... seems like zapco invested some time in the design of them. Now whether they are better from a sq point of view or not is completely unknown to me. But one thing I have learned from being in the I.T. field and building my own pcs...heat is an enemy to any electronics and the cooler something runs, the more longevity it has. Plus the fact I recognize the same caps and other internals I seen in my own 150.6lx makes me wonder if it is on par with the lx as they seem to share common components. 

But I see advantages to the lx also from a purist point of mind considering it has nothing to get in the signal path like crossovers and such..... and each channel has its own gain as well.

Now whether I would have bought the Z-SP over the LX if I would have known in advance....interesting question actually. If I was going from the stance of tech the Z-SP brings over the LX, I think I would entertain the thought as I hate heat with a passion. But from the reputation the LX has established, I believe it would fall more into my favoritism at the end of it all.


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## Junior 123 (Jul 20, 2020)

dsw1204 said:


> I've been saving up my funds for a future purchase of a Zapco Z150.6 LX. I'm only about half way there, but I've seen another amp that has my interest. It's the Mmats HiFi-6150D. Power wise, they are pretty close (150W x 6 RMS). If you bridge channels 5 and 6, the Mmats will give up to 1000 watts at 1 ohm. The Zapco will not go down to 1 ohm, but that is not a concern for me. The sub I will be using is a 4 ohm sub. But, subwoofer performance is not a main concern for me. It is how well the front stage sounds is what I am most concerned about.
> 
> I know very little about Mmats. Their website is very minimal, especially with specifications and even with just general information about their products.
> 
> ...


At 2 ohm its 800rms at 1ohm its 1000rms.


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

I use a 150a for my z150.6ap but as I don’t use it for 2 ohm at all and wound down for tweeters and mids, I could use a 75 or a 50 if I wanted and it would be fine even at full chat


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## Junior 123 (Jul 20, 2020)

Driver of 102080 said:


> Bridging 5&6 on the Mmatts gives you only 450 @ 2 ohms. Just useful info I found when I was interested in the Mmatts amp. Info on that amp online is a pita.
> 
> Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk


That's not correct for I have two 6150 and one md4100, its very underrated, 700 and a bit more on two and a out 600 on 4.


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