# 2008 Toyota CrewMax Limited 4x4 aftermarket stereo help...



## iraqvetx7 (Apr 14, 2010)

I have a 2008 Toyota CrewMax Limited 4x4 with JBL/NAV and would like to change out the Subwoofer and speakers BUT keep the stock HU/NAV/Bluetooth/Steering wheel controls, you get the idea.

I am ordering a box with 12in sub(s)s from tech12volts.com with one (or two) SI BM MKiii's and a JL 900/5 amp (for a single sub) or JL HD750 and a JL HD600/4(for the dual sub configuration).

I still haven't decided on which component speakers to replace the factory one's. I like the Dynaudio 240 GT, CDT (tech12volts.com), JL Audio, Focal, etc. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. 

I need assistance on what devices (i.e Clean Sweep, etc.) are needed to tie everything together and make the stereo interface and features work like stock (NAV, Bluetooth, etc.), but perform/sound like after market. 

I would also like to put headrest DVD/monitors in with wireless headsets. Any recomendations on brand/type/style?

I know that there are several (dozen) threads talking about this topic, but I am finding it hard to navigate through all the information and responses and threads get side tracked or off-topic altogether. So, please do not think I am lazy or incabable of doing my own research or due diligence. Thank you ahead of time for your time and responses.


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## VP Electricity (Apr 11, 2009)

All the Toy JBL systems I have worked on have L + R preamp balanced from the HU to the JBL amp, and a data line. 

The data line controls the fader and preamp in the JBL amp. 

The signal from the HU to the JBL amp doesn't fluctuate with volume - the volume is controlled in the JBL amp. 

The preamp signal is flat and unprocessed - it's full-range, and if you have a volume control elsewhere, it works great. But the amp output is crossed over at a point that forces summing back together, and it's also wildly equalized. 

If you have steering wheel controls and you use the preamp output, they stop controlling volume. If you don't have SW volume, then you basically just lose the volume knob. 

I've thought about using a Zapco SLB-U as a volume control in that car, going into a Zapco amp complement. As long as what's downstream takes balanced, you are golden. 

You could also use the DRC volume of a BitOne, it's a nice knob.

There are some interfaces on the market which are supposed to give you a variable volume signal for this exact install issue, but I've heard they sound poor. I know the GM version did. Aall I can find now is the PAC TATO, which is not what you need. 

If you want to retain sw control and keep the OEM amp, then you need an audison bitone, a RF 360.2, a Zapco DSP-6 with some SLDIN.BTL and some SLDIN.Y, or a CleanSweep with an SSI. 

Don't get a ReQ, it's not what you need. Check OEinterface.com for more info on this topic...


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## iraqvetx7 (Apr 14, 2010)

Thank you for an informative and technical reply! :thumbsup:

I will look into all aspects of your response and provide this info to my installer to make sure the functionality of the OEM HU is not diminished with the added components.


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