# Painting amp, what do I have to be carefull of?



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Hi all,

I want to paint the Linear Powers I just got... The paint part is the easy part... They are super simple to take apart, but, what I want/need to know is do I have to worry about the board beyond being very careful with it, while it is out of the case? Obviously, I won't bend or brake anything, but do I need to be worried about ESD? And what would I store the boards in while i'm doing the work?

As many of you may know, I've done bench repairs in the past, but *A.* it was a long time ago and *B.* I didn't do amps, I did HU's... so I'm not 100% with amps... 

Reference pic.. 










Thank you,

Aaron


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

You should get them powdercoated


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

King Nothing said:


> You should get them powdercoated



That is a possibility, I have a friend with the facilities for it.... but, my main concern is having working amps when i'm finished...


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## Fish Chris (Dec 14, 2008)

Hey Aaron, I'm not sure which part of the amp your talking about painting, but I know that painting, or powder coating the heat sink fins could seriously hurt the heat disipating properties of the heat sinks. So I definately wouldn't mess with those.

It probably wouldn't be so bad if the amp had a built in fan.... but I wouldn't swear to that either. 
I'd just be really nervous to mess with an amp, due to the cooling aspects.

I was / am thinking about having my RF Power 1000 re-plated with black chrome, instead of regular chrome though. I'm not too worried about this, as I'll just be adding another 1/1000th or so, of basically the same stuff (chromium) just a different color, so it should not affect heat disipation.

Peace,
Fish


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

Fish Chris said:


> Hey Aaron, I'm not sure which part of the amp your talking about painting, but I know that painting, or powder coating the heat sink fins could seriously hurt the heat disipating properties of the heat sinks. So I definately wouldn't mess with those.
> 
> 
> Fish


Most amps come with some kind of coating wether it be paint or chrome or whetever. I would think its OK for paint or powdercoat. shouldnt mess with heat dissipation much


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

I've thought about that, but I'm not that worried, there are millions of amps painted and powder coated that dissipate heat just fine... 

I'm definitely not painting the board, so that really only leaves the heatsink, my man..


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## jingle-jangle (Dec 27, 2008)

amp heatsinks are generally anodized. paint and especially powder coating will *definitely* negatively affect the heat dissipation capacity of the heatsink fins. proceed at your own risk! if you *have* to paint, use black.


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## clbolt (Jan 9, 2008)

Lots of heat sinks have come from the factory with powder coat, paint, plating, etc. Anodizing is not a given. In fact, just looking at the amps I have laying around here and thinking about past amps, none of my US Acoustics are anodized, most of my Haflers have had textured paint, The classic old-school Fosgates (Punch HD and earlier) were all painted, etc. Just because a lot of today's amps are anodized doesn't mean it's the only way to go.

I'm going to have my US Acoustics USA series amps powdercoated when I rework them. They came from the factory with really thick paint on them, and they need to be redone.


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## Robert (Jul 23, 2006)

Remove the board entirely and store in very safe place. Cover the inside of the amp, painters tape. Get some paint stripper and remove all the old paint. Primer, paint, clear coat.


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## Fish Chris (Dec 14, 2008)

> amp heatsinks are generally anodized. paint and especially powder coating will *definitely* negatively affect the heat dissipation capacity of the heatsink fins.


I'm totally siding with jingle on this. I've never seen actual heat sinks with straight up "textured" paint. And even if I did, If have to believe that the paint was aluminum based or something, to help with heat disipation. It would make absolutely no since whatsoever, to take something which disipates heat so well as aluminum, and wrap it in such a good heat insulator, as paint.

But it's your amp. Go for it. I sure as $#!+ wouldn't.

Peace,
Fish

PS, But just for $#!+'s and grins, call "any" amplifier company and see what they say about painting the heat fins on their amp. I don't think your amps are under warranty, but I'd bet my paycheck that painting an amp would void a warranty if it had one.


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

Aaron,

I have multiple amp boards siting in a box in the closet. I wrapped them in foam paper, or bubble wrap and put them in a box. I have rebuilt 2 of them after refinishing the case and they work just as usual. I have serious doubts that a piece of electronics meant for vehicles could not handle the difference between a painted heat sink and one not. The biggest thing to worry about is keeping the place where the power ic's fets, etc clean. During reassembly be sure to use similar heat sink compound to properly couple them to the metal. Good to go. Best of luck with whichever direction you go.


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## Fish Chris (Dec 14, 2008)

Stalin, I've had amps that got scary freaking hot as it was. I don't know in degrees, but you couldn't leave your hand on them.... what would that be ? 140 ? 150 degrees ? And so you would say, no problem if they get 160 ? 165 ?

I think you guys are talking out of a hole in your necks (to try and be nice about it  Okay, so I don't know $#!+ myself. That's why I suggested calling an amp manufacturer to see what they will tell you.

I'm not trying to be a dick. On the contrary, I'd hate to see a fellow DIY'er fry his amp, that's all. If I were fixing to do something stupid, I'd hope somebody here would stop me as well. 

.....like when somebody here told me the other day > If you fleck stone your box, I'll come kick your ass !  I'm really glad they told me this  LOL

Peace,
Fish


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

My old MTX thunders had a black textured finish. I would assume they were painted


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## tusk (Feb 20, 2008)

FWIW 

Quite some time ago in a previous car I repainted some OS Alpine V12s with "wrinkle" paint. I always seemed to have some thremal issues with the one for the sub after I painted them in the summer time. The others were fine though. 












> I've had amps that got scary freaking hot as it was


My old SS 10.0 @ 1 ohm got hot as hell.


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## imjustjason (Jun 26, 2006)

There was another thread a while back about painting amps and envision had this to say..



envisionelec said:


> Compared to the powdercoat, paint thickness is less, so it will probably improve radiative dissipation. Aside from wrapping your amps in carpet or milling the fins down to small nubs*, there isn't much you can do paint-wise to harm the thermal dissipation of your amps.


He know's amps, and know's them very well.


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## crux131 (Feb 27, 2007)

A similar thread I started in the fabrication forum. Might be some usefull info in there...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-fabrication/46394-painting-amp-questions.html


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Since the guy from TIPS is pretty handy, and the amps are fairly valuable... I think the call an expert route certainly can't hurt. Also, if you are going black.. why not consider anodizing as an option?

While heat might not fry your amp - its never good for any electronic component, and with something that might well hold its value for many years, long life might lead to something unique and rare down the road. 

Also, when you take it apart - the idea of keeping the area where the transistors connect to the heat sink clean is a VERY good idea. I don't know how it works with amplifiers, but that arctic ice thermal transfer grease for computers where the chip connects to the processor fan works great! You might consider picking up a tube or two to replace the old stuff or to aid in the transfer even if it didn't have it before.

If anyone has suggestions on a company that would be able to both strip down my McIntosh to its base aluminum surface (including all anodization patchs that might have penetrated deeper than the norm) and then do a great job reanodizing - PLEASE PM! I've been wanting to spruce this amp up since I bought it and have made my own side rails, and bought every reasonably priced replacement part I could find... but the main body was just not treated very well unfortunately and doesn't look terribly great.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the partial hijack =)

Less


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks for all the input fellas... My biggest concern is the possibility of ESD killing components while the board is out of the heatsink... I just need to know for sure that ESD will not kill the amp out of the HS.. I think stalintc and tusk has answered the question, but I would like opinions from others that did it.. if possible... 

I know all about disassembly and assembly, so that's no problem...



> I think you guys are talking out of a hole in your necks (to try and be nice about it  Okay, so I don't know $#!+ myself. That's why I suggested calling an amp manufacturer to see what they will tell you.


I'm sorry homes, but tellin people they are full of ****, then saying you, yourself are full of ****, isn't gettin anyone anywhere.. I understand you have the best intentions here though..

T.I.P.s offers amp refurbishing which they powder coat for... so I doubt paint or anything else is going to be a problem..


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

> Stalin, I've had amps that got scary freaking hot as it was. I don't know in degrees, but you couldn't leave your hand on them.... what would that be ? 140 ? 150 degrees ? And so you would say, no problem if they get 160 ? 165 ?


For the sake of argument the amps I have rebuilt did not run that hot to begin with. I did have a RF Power 500a2 from a while ago and that certainly did get that hot. I remember seeing a few installs where they had been painted or powder coated (I can't remember) but they appeared to run fine in the competitions. That is not conclusive proof, but it is what it is. 



> That's why I suggested calling an amp manufacturer to see what they will tell you.


Certainly could not hurt.



> My biggest concern is the possibility of ESD killing components while the board is out of the heatsink...


I have had no problem with that up to now. I imagine your place is as dry as mine due to the heater (yea MI) so I try not to wear anything like big fleece jackets and the such. Also I ground myself just before grabbing them. If you are still worried you can get a CPU grounding strap for when you're working on them. Have fun!


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Are you gonna paint them teh pink to match the roll cage? :laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

cheesehead said:


> Are you gonna paint them teh pink to match the roll cage? :laugh::laugh::laugh:


.....


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## 6APPEAL (Apr 5, 2007)

For a while, Linear did offer amps power coated, which is why there where so many colors. This was also before Linear started doing colored anodizing, which is what is on all LP, DPS and HV series amps. Ray gets the heat sinks redone with power coating to help hide the beat-up, banged-up heat sinks that most folks have (my 3002's are great examples of this). The power coatings' thickness hides scratches, nicks, welding/grinding marks for the most part. I believe he can get heat sinks anodized, but at a higher cost since they have to be stripped first and the lot size required for anodizing. The power coating is done over the top of the orginal anodized color.
John


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks john... that just helps set in stone that i'm not that worried about heat... 

Now, if I could get me a 100% on what to do with the board.. I know it was mentioned to just bubble wrap them, but I know i've gotten hundreds of electronic assemblies in non-ESD and conductive packaging... So, i'm trying to figure that out for 100%.. 


Oh, and john... if you do some googling, anodizing is really quite easy... 


Cheers,
Aaron


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Paint will hold in heat, it depends on how much heat the amp makes. Heat is not good for electronics, but they can handle a fair amount of heat too. I just looked up a transistor in an amp that will handle 150C at reduced output. Their capacity for current does decline with heat, they blow up easier when hot. I run fans on any of my amps that get hot to touch, but its up to you. Black, flat black, is supposed to radiate more heat that is why woodstoves are black for example. Old soundstream, mtx, RF were most all painted, but they might have put more fin area on the amp to compensate who knows.

I would not worry about ESD with most car amps or any old amp, that is not an issue until you get into amps with electronic controls...even then, but some amps and processors are just about PCs now and have cpus of a sort. Just don't touch those areas if you start seeing square chips with lots of tiny leads. A LP of course does not. Take it apart and store all the screws/etc in containers and ensure you know how to get it back together right. Take photos. Be very careful of any insulators that might be used between the sink and transistors. Clean any sink grease off, though you might leave it on the board parts so you know where it was if you need to. Stuff is very messy, I wipe it off and then use a little lamp oil/mineral spirits. I would wrap the board in bubble wrap or padded envelope/etc and put in a box or on a shelf. Be careful of bending stuff, dropping it, it getting physically damaged is most important issue. 

Clean the sink well and make sure the surface contact areas for the transistors are clean and free of paint or any dents/etc when you put it back together. Some people go as far as to block hone the surface flat. Get some new thermal grease and be very careful you use the same threads on all screws when you put it back together and don't strip them. Use enough grease to displace the air between heat conducting parts to the sink.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks,

Most of that I already know/knew, but couldn't fault ya for the refresher... 

The biggest concern is the possibility of ESD taking things out on me.... but, I think 3 people now have said not to worry about it.. That's good enough for me... 

This won't be my first time having amps apart (remember I used to repair HU's), but it will be my first time having them apart, back together and running...


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## 6APPEAL (Apr 5, 2007)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Thanks john... that just helps set in stone that i'm not that worried about heat...
> 
> Oh, and john... if you do some googling, anodizing is really quite easy...
> 
> ...


Never said it wasn't easy, just more expensive. I'm pretty sure I know the place Ray is using for powercoating. They also do anodizing, but they require a sizable lot before they give a price break. They will not do onezies and twozies of heatsinks since they are a small shop (been there, tried that). I know there are some places that you can ship to that will do small sets for a decent price. Color matching is another issue. The tint/color of some of my LP's is off a little from different batch runs.

Back to the heat thing, you should not have a problem. A buddy has 3 modded 1752's in white powercoated heat sinks. They've been running that way for about 15 years with no problems. You might have to add a fan, but only if you plan to pound on them.:laugh:
John


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## JayBee (Oct 6, 2006)

The big thing to remember about painting an amp is to make sure that you use a new roller


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

There is nothing in an old amp that uses that little of current to get ESD, especially a LP. I know the old ones like the 2002 we used to run the HU into the RCA to get rid of noise, given those were not high power HU. But LP were good for 5v input.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

6APPEAL said:


> Never said it wasn't easy, just more expensive. I'm pretty sure I know the place Ray is using for powercoating. They also do anodizing, but they require a sizable lot before they give a price break. They will not do onezies and twozies of heatsinks since they are a small shop (been there, tried that). I know there are some places that you can ship to that will do small sets for a decent price. Color matching is another issue. The tint/color of some of my LP's is off a little from different batch runs.
> 
> Back to the heat thing, you should not have a problem. A buddy has 3 modded 1752's in white powercoated heat sinks. They've been running that way for about 15 years with no problems. You might have to add a fan, but only if you plan to pound on them.:laugh:
> John


 
I have a friend here that the family ownes a really large fab shop (for sports training equipement) so I might be able to get some small heatsinks in the oven for a bake.. It's just that I have some extra blue from when the car was painted, so I thought that would make life easier... but doing them in red might work out to..


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