# just showing off latest creation m25 & m44 custom rt66 project



## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

just wanted to show off the latest creation i did for customer last fall, sadly he has sold his car and needs / wants to sell, at a loss of what he has into these i might add...but before they run off to new home and while i had chance to post pics up... i wanted to share with you guys just what i am capable of.

custom or OEM graphics on amps restorations.


enjoy (i hope)


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is awesome right there!!!


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

Thx mate!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

So can you do the lettering/rebadging like original, or just custom artwork?


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

yeah nah, i can do custom or oem
which ever one is looking for.


reference 1st post: _*custom or OEM graphics on amps restorations.*_


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## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

mhyde, what do you need to replicate the originial graphics? I have (5) Alpine MRV amps, a changer and a processor i need to restore, then re-screen/re-graphic.

Rob


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

^^^ well to replicate/provide original artwork- i (I) would have to have the artwork (whatever one wants to be put on amps) in some digital format (i.e pdf, AI, jpg, or the like)


My process is not the/a traditional method of air-brushing or silk-screening... my process is actually baked right into the finish, under the clear coat. This way the artwork gets a layer of protection from the outside elements as it is under the clear coat powder coating. The finish/paint will wear off before the art- kinda cool i think/feel. 

BUT, AND without getting into the specifics, as it took me like 18 months to develop/figure out how to do it. and even on the powder coating forums i am constantly asked how i do it, and i just havent gotten the gumption to share with anyone or my sources as i have not found anyone that does the same process as mine. trade secrets right? but will say this it is simply a transfer process, and if it is visible on monitor, i can transfer it to the metal and then shoot clear over it and bake it right into the finish. 

HOWEVER, the one downside to my process however is that i am unable to place art/graphics onto black (or very dark) color base coats. The lighter the better type deal...
BUT BUT I have done art on gold (see in pic) which actually came out great! AND, I also have done artwork on/with the candy black coating, but and as some of you guys may already know... that with candy colors (aka "candies") the base coat is actually chrome...then you apply the translucent candy color, so it does work out with candies pretty good.

*OR* - for those that just have to have black color/erd amps, as an alternative, I do have an embossing process i can do, so the text/art is actually embossed to the feel/touch, and is visible to eyes with the solid dark black art.

if that made sense... 

see pics... gives maybe a better idea of what i am referring to.


but as far as the art and what would it take to put back to OEM looks (say for example your alpine amps)... well i would need to be sent or I would have to make the artwork up. it could be scanned and sent over to me, or send me the metal just as you have it and i would go thru the process. BUT if the scans dont come out great, then there is either photo-chopping them to be perfect in photoshop... OR worst case, the art would have to be done up from scratch like in AI or something. so/but certainly possible. BUT and if you search around you may find someone that has various logo's or whatever that goes on the amp. To have to re-do them all by hand would be costly. certainly possible and do-able, but it takes time. best case scenario, would be to maybe find someone that has the art, or make up yourself...however you would like it if you are semi-savvy in PS or AI you should be fine. 

Fonts can be and are easily determined by using www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/ <hopefully anyways, so far i have had great success in determining some of the older PG fonts used- of which i have them all>

all the text is easy i would bet...once the fonts are determined, then it's just a matter of lay-out and lining stuff up correctly for output to transfer process.


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## rodneypierce (Feb 2, 2012)

The Pheonix Gold in the pictures appears to be vinyl then cleared over top, which would give you the raised edge that can be seen. But your beautiful RT66 amp above looks to me like its digitally printed directly to the amp itself, then cleared over top. I dont know any other way to get detail like that, without having the raised edge of vinyl (not to mention, trying to cut the text and symbols for the gain pots that small, from vinyl would be a major PITA)


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

yeah the black candy pics are (IIRC) just that...
vinyl decals cut to size on the plotter, and cleared over it. I used a high temp vinyl in that case, but could use the transfers also just the same i believe. but yeah that was one of my first creations and the other possibility would be to lay down a base color coat (the desired text color), mask with the vinyl decals, coat black, and half-way through cure sycly, remove from oven, pull off decals (gingerly i might add), and then revealing the under-color-coat....

so lets say you wanted black with pink letters. plot out the letters / art that is desired; shoot the pink and full cure, apply decals, shoot black and half cure...remove from oven pull off decals, and return to oven for full cure. that would net pink lettering on black in essence....BUT i have yet to try that method - as each time i did it...the customer said - ahh forget it- i like what i see now- so keep the decals on.

BUT i think in theory it would work.

the rt66 stuff is a different process as you pointed out- that was not done with decals. and has no edges/edging from the art/graphics... which is nice also!


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

heres some close ups of a legitimate 66 i did... one of my favorite restores i done...

as you can see in the close ups... and like you pointed out...no lines and looks fab!

pics of the whole job here; before's and after's and stuff like that:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.182556515118153.41272.182548038452334&type=3


and what i wlould like to keep shhh shhh (secret)- 

seriously i get asked all the time on powde forums how do i do it, etc etc - it took me 18 months + of trials and errors and finally got it dialed in with some great results!


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## bmiller1 (Mar 7, 2010)

That is some fine looking work, sir. Very impressive.


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## JuiceMan88 (Jun 13, 2012)

Very nice work there!


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

thx mang!


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## Blazemore (Dec 1, 2006)

Interesting...I have some SS Rubicons that need the silk-screening replaced but I rather not use silk-screening. Comes off to easy. I do like the look of those M4's and 66.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Out of curiosity, I have some old Sony ES amps that need a little love. They have some slight damage to the heat sinks near the mounting holes. Do you do repairs to those? If not, do you know if I were to use a metalized filler to repair the areas, if I could powder coat over that? I was also thinking of changing the color scheme...but thought I should check first.

Thanks.

Jay


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Tight!


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## THE VIKING (Oct 23, 2007)

looks like it may be water slide transfers to me but very nice work indeed


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## shawnk (Jan 11, 2010)

Matt (mhyde71) refinished one of my ZPA amps with oem black wrinkle powder coating. He's a true professional. The amp looked fantastic (as good as new) when I got it back. Well worth the $$ and I couldn't have been any happier


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## kappa546 (Apr 11, 2005)

This looks seriously awesome. Makes me want to buy some beat up amps just to have restored lol. How much would custom finish run? PM if you don't want to make it public. Thanks


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