# 2000 Silverado Budget Build



## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Hello. I have a 2000 Silverado that I'm building up. You can read about the entire build here:

Project "Charlie Murphy"

And here:

2000 Chevy Silverado project "Charlie Murphy" - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums

The performance trucks link will always be the most current. I haven't updated the blog in quite a while. It still shows the Procharger on there and I've decided to go turbo instead. Also, the stereo plan is majorly outdated.

Anyway, back in the 90's I was sorta into car audio. I never really could afford all the stuff I really wanted. Over the years, I've managed to collect parts here and there. I have a collection of parts that I personally love.

I don't have thousands of dollars into this stuff and I don't have thousands of dollars to put into my stereo.

If you looked at the blog, you'll see my first plan for my truck. Well rather than buy a bunch of new stuff, I decided to use what I already have.*

Almost all of my music is digital these days so I was planning on going with the Alpine 305S. Instead, I'm going to take that money and buy a JBL MS-8. I can get a factory refurbished one for 399.00 shipped and it has a warranty.

I'm getting ahead of myself.

Here's the equipment I have:

Clarion DRX9255
(2) A/D/S PQ10's
(1) Rockford Fosgate 500bd
12" IDMAX V3 D4
Boston Acoustics 6.43

I've biamped the Boston's before. They consist of a 1" tweeter, 4" midrange and a 6 1/2" midbass.

This time around I am going fully active.

Today I took out my old subwoofer box. It didn't fit quite right since I swapped the leather seats and console in. Plus I need to figure out how I'm going to fit the IDMAX.

Here is box 1.0. I was messing around with fiberglass and contouring the box around the seats.










Here's the beginnings of subwoofer box 2.0.










The underside where the IDMAX will mount. I gave it 2 1/2 inches of clearance.










Space is so limited. I'm mocking everything up to make sure it fits.










I recessed the box into the center console as close as I could.










It'll fit! Of course it's going to be mounted underneath.










I've previously sounded deadened the cab. Although, I need to order some more and do the roof and doors better.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Here's some random photos.



















Here's the first box.



















Here's the truck the day I got it.










Here's how it sits now.










I just finished installing:

Lowering spindles
Lowering shackles
Front and rear sway bars
Upgraded brakes front and rear
Hydroboost and master cylinder
Braided brake lines
Shocks
Swapped in leather/heated seats


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Little more progress today.










Sorry, I'm not much of a carpenter and all these angles suck. Especially cutting everything with a circular saw.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

That is pretty good work with a circular saw!!! I would have cut a finger off.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Thanks man. It's been tricky but a fun process. I like the idea of using a minimal amount of tools. If I can pull it off with basic tools anyone can. 

I've built this entire box with a hand drill, a circular saw, a measuring tape, and a square. I drilled pilot holes for the screws. Nothing's glued yet. I wanted to make sure it'll fit.

Here it is fitted into the center console. 










I still need to square off the top parts, but here's how it'll sit above the console. It'll be nice to have a flat area to set my backpack on. 










How do you guys think I should finish the box? Carpet? Paint?
Anyone have any idea how much airspace an IDMAX needs? I couldn't find a spec sheet. It's a 12" V3 D4.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

iregret said:


> How do you guys think I should finish the box? Carpet? Paint?
> Anyone have any idea how much airspace an IDMAX needs? I couldn't find a spec sheet. It's a 12" V3 D4.


 
Here you go bud: http://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manuals/imagedynamics/idmax12v3d4.pdf


Image Dynamics recommends a sealed enclosure of between 1-1.3 cubic feet. I would probably just carpet the box. It will match up with the interior better, it's cheap, and it's fairly easy. With paint you will see every little imperfection.

Looks good so far ! I like your equipment choices too, nice gear!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Sweeeeeet! Thank you so much!!!

When I'm done I'll take some final measurements and try to figure out my airspace. If I had to guess, it should be around 1-1.3 cubic feet. This should work out well! Woohoo!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I go a bit more done today.

The first thing I had to do was measure behind the seats do I can see exactly how much room I have. Well I got to looking at it and realized I made the side pieces surrounding the subwoofer to short! So I had to remake the 2 side parts. It was frustrating, but I think they actually turned out a bit better than the first ones.

I actually made them a bit to long on purpose. So I can trim them when I put the side pieces on.










Here's what I've got so far.




























On the bottom I'll make a rectangular piece and then enclose the box. Also, I'll trim that top part to the same size as the side pieces.

Everything is just loosely screwed together. All these angles are much more of a pain then I thought they would be. I kinda wish I knew how to use cad.

I did some measurements. It looks like I'll have approximately 1.33 cubic feet of air space.


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## RidnClean (Nov 24, 2007)

i like the truck


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Thanks man!


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## SubNit (Nov 5, 2008)

Looking good so far! Wish you would have kept the chrome wheels though, seemed to make your truck pop. That's just my opinion, good luck with the rest of the install


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

This truck is a lot of firsts for me. It's the first time I built a truck. It's the first time I've lowered a 4 wheel drive. It's my first time running black wheels. It will be my first awd truck and my first LS engine build up.

When I finally found those wheels after looking for them for over a year , they were pretty scratched up. Centerline never made black wheels so I decided to try something I've never done before. I powdercoated them black. 

I think the look will sorta come together after I get rid of the chrome mirrors and bumpers.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

You know, if I'd just stop changing the design of this box, I'd be done already!










I've got all the pieces cut and just need to start gluing it together. 










I decided to make the enclosure as large as I could. I'll have to remeasure, but I'd guess there's somewhere around 2.0^ now. In doing that, I'm going to have to do something I usually tell people never to do. I'm going to mount my amps to my box.

I plan on reinforcing where the amps will mount. I'll also put a layer of ensolite between the amp and the box. I may even throw a layer of deadener in their as well.


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## flyin99 (Jul 23, 2010)

Awesome job man!!!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Thanks man. I'm glad I'm almost done with the subwoofer enclosure. I ordered some Raaamat BXT and ensolite. I'm planning in redoing the doors and rear of the cab. I can't wait to get to the tweeter, midrange and midbass part of the install.


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## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

Looking good. Nice job!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I finally got to get back to my stereo project. My wife and I recently went to Vegas.

Anywho, we got the table saw repaired, but it's a little bit too late. *LOL. I've already made all my cuts. I did decide to make some minor changes. I cut 3/4 of an inch off of each end and put caps on instead of cutting a small piece to fit in. My cuts aren't quite square, so it will be easier this way.

So anyway, here's the box during pre-assembly. I pre-drilled all the holes for the screws.










Check it out. It totally fits!










It fits right around the center console.










Here's the carpet I picked up. It's felt from Walmart. I got 3 yards of the stuff for 12 bucks. I think it'll match pretty well.










Here's how I'm going to end up mounting the amplifiers. I have a few pieces to cut. I'm going to reinforce the inside where the amps mount. I'm also going to play around with raammat and ensolite.










It's a pretty bad pic, but you can kinda see how this color will tie into the grey.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Well I've had the box cut into shape for a bit, but today I actually had time to glue it together.

Now, the box isn't perfectly square. I made all of these pieces with a circular saw remember. So I decided to try a product that I've never used. Gorilla Glue.










This is an expanding glue. I've never used it before but basically you wet down to two surfaces you're gluing together, apply the glue, and clamp down.

I didn't realize how much this glue would actually expand. It's a good thing I'm not making professional furniture or something. If you do decide to use a glue like this, you might want to keep a damp rag handy or something.










The entire box, except the end caps, glued together.










Check out how much this glue expanded!










I didn't glue the end caps on because I wanted to be able to reach the inside of the box so I could run a bead of silicone along all of the joints. With the way this glue looks, I'm wondering if that's even necessary.

While I was waiting for the glue to dry, I started taking apart my door. I had previously installed amplifier on my inner and outer door panels.

I wanted to try something different this time so I ordered some peel and stick ensolite foam and raammat.

It turns out, the last time I deadened it, I did a reasonable job. So I didn't have to add much in the way of deadener. What I did add was a patch of ensolite foam behind the mid bass driver. I also used some raammat bxt to seal up all of the unnecessary holes.

This is as far as I got.

[









I think this door panel is done. I'm not sure if I ordered enough ensolite though.

My subwoofer box runs the entire span of the back of my truck. How beneficial would it be to install ensolite on the sheet metal behind the box?


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I've never used this expanding foam glue before. I'm sure I used too much but it seems to have filled all the cracks nicely.










I usually go over all the joints with silicone. That foam seems to have filled everything so well that I don't think it'll be necessary. I had already bought the silicone so I just went through the box and applied some here and there. I still don't think I had to, but what the heck.

I had to file away at a few parts so the subwoofer would clear.



















I always measure twice, cut once, but geez this is close.










Here's a shot from the inside where you can see that the subwoofer has plenty of clearance and how well that foaming glue sealed up the joints.










After that I glued on the end caps and went back to working on the truck.

With that expanding glue I got to thinking about the back panel. There's this gap above where the box is going, under the rear window. I had previously deadened it but there was no way to get to the outer skin. So I bought some expanding foam. The stuff I used said it was for gaps 1 inch or less. I filled the gap as best I could until I ran out. Hope it helps!

This was actually right after I sprayed it. It expanded and filled that gap even more.










Next I moved on to deadening the drivers door. I basically did the same thing to the drivers side as the passengers. I closed up all the holes and applied a layer of ensolite foam. I didn't get a picture of it.

I ran out of time. I'll get the foam applied to the rear part, behind the subwoofer and get the subwoofer installed and the box covered. Then I'll be done with most of the hard stuff!


Oh, I wanted to ask, what do you guys recommend using to seal the sub to the box?


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I got to work on the truck a little bit today. Only for an hour or so.

I added another layer of matting to the low spots on the rear panel. Then I got to thinking.

I have seen where other guys filled the low spots with mdf and then attached the sub box to the mdf. I didn't really want to drill into the back of my cab. I had bought a sheet of foam with the idea of experimenting with filling the cab vents.

As I was looking at the foam I thought. What if I used this foam to fill the low spots? The subwoofer box would butt up against the foam. It would kind of be a cushion.










So that what I did. I used the peel and stick ensolite foam to hold it in place.










I'm finally done with the rear wall.










I've never used this peel and stick ensolite foam before. I haven't got to experience driving with the foam installed, but do far it seems to really make a difference. I'm actually going to order a few more yards of the stuff.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Back at it again. I ordered some peel and stick ensolite from raamaudio on the 16th and it hasn't shown up yet. I was hoping it would be here so I could install it on my roof.

Anyway, here's what I started with.










See that separate support piece in the center there? That wiggled and vibrated like crazy! I put deadener on the roof skin behind it where I could. After that, I filled the gap with spray foam. What's funny is there's some flexible foam in between the panels from the factory.










I'm going to end up covering all the holes with raamat. That top piece is solid now. After that, I'll add a layer of ensolite.

I really hope all this effort is going to be worth it. I've never done this extensive of a job before.

While the spray foam was setting up I decided to carpet my subwoofer enclosure.

I didn't know the best way to go about carpeting this box, so I kinda winged it.










I sprayed adhesive on the felt and the box. I basically did it in a crisscross pattern. One layer one direction, another layer the opposite direction.




























Well, this is what I ended up with. I'm not to happy with it, but this is what you get at 1:00 am. It's not my best work, but most of the box will be hidden anyway.



















The back looks pretty good. Too bad no one will ever see it. LOL.

I put a couple of pieces of ensolite in the box behind the subwoofer.










Ensolite on the bottom of the box. I'm going to use it as a seal for the IDMAX.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I finished the deadening on the roof.










I put up the rest of my ensolite foam. I ordered more but there was a glitch and it was never shipped.










The cabin vents are in just about the worst location. They're at the bottom of the cab, behind the seats. The interior panels basically route the vents to ear level. I decided to try something. I cut some foam put it in the vent.










I put some BXT II deadener on the top part of the vent to help protect the foam from water. Hopefully it will help block some road noise. There's actually a space between the deadener and the foam. It's not blocking it off.










Not that you would ever see them, but I decided to paint the silver black. I had a can of black hammerite paint left over from a previous project.










Headliner back on.










I started to put the interior back together. I need to trim that plastic part above the box. That's why it's just sitting there.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I need to figure out how to fit 2 (maybe 3) drivers into my door panel. Here's what I have to work with.










I'm pretty fortunate to have this much room really. I was originally going to build kick panels and mount the drivers there. I actually started the fiberglass work and everything. I decided against it because I put in a center console and I think that will really block a lot of sound.

*Right now I'm debating in if I should mount the tweeters in the doors or on the sail panels behind the mirrors? What do you guys think? I'll be using an MS-8 as well.
*
So I cut out where I wanted to mount the drivers.










Then traced that onto some spare 3/4" mdf.










After I cut it out with a jigsaw, it almost fit. I ended up shaping it with a belt sander for final fitment.










So my idea was to use a 3" PVC cap for my midrange. It's too deep to clear the door panel and grill, so I cut it. (I found out later that its about 3mm too tall so I'm going to go buy a black end cap. They have a flat bottom instead of rounded so it should clear.)










Here it is trimmed up and fit into the door panel. The hole is cut for the 3" PVC cap.










Now you're getting the idea.










Today I'm heading to Home Depot and picking up the black end caps. Hopefully by tonight I can have it all built and installed. Then I'll be done with door panels!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

So here's roughly how it will look.










Nice and hidden behind that huge factory grill. Even with the black caps that have flat bottoms, there's barely enough room to clear, but it does clear.










After that I ran the wiring for all three speakers. It was quite the pain to get that 14 gauge wire through the factory rubber loom between the door and the body. I wanted them in there though for as stealth an install as possible.










I went ahead and carpeted it since I had some scraps from the subwoofer enclosure. That way you won't notice them in the door. I siliconed in the black end cap, but prior to that I drilled a hole in it for the wire to go through.










I started on the drivers side. All I got done though was cutting the door panel, making the driver's mount and carpeting it. Hopefully I have enough speaker wire to reach the amplifiers from the drivers door.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Got a little bit more work done.

I had previously ran out of the Ensolite foam. I ordered some more from raammat and it finally showed up.

So I took the interior back out and finished up the floors.

Here's before. Look at that old Second Skin Damplifier. Before they switched to black!










The rear half done.










The front half done.










This would be the time where you would normally add mass loaded vinyl. Well, I couldn't find a supplier locally, and I don't feel like waiting or tearing the interior apart again.

What's weird, is my factory carpet really feels like mass loaded vinyl. I know it doesn't have the same mass, but it's strikingly similar! Basically, I'm calling this good enough.

I have a tiny bit left to do on the headliner and then deadening is done once and for all.

After that I'm going to finish the driver's side door panel install and wiring and then it's stereo gear install time!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I finished up the installation of the closed cell foam on the roof. The deadening process is now 100% done!










I wired up and installed my IDMAX. It's a V3 D4, so I wired it for a 2 ohm load.










I drilled a hole and siliconed in the speaker wire. I don't like speaker terminals.


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## rimshot (May 17, 2005)

How much quieter is that truck after all the deadener work? That bass is going to be articulated and tight because of all that work!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

God I hope so. I've never gone to such lengths to deaden a vehicle. I usually do the damplifier and call it good. This time I tried the ensolite peel and stick foam from raammat and really liked it. I also bought a pack of his bxt2 and went way over kill on that too. 

I've sat inside the cab with the stereo in the garage playing. It definitely mutes the stereo. I can still hear it though. I have a feeling once the rest of the interior is installed it'll be even quieter. One thing that I've definitely noticed is how the doors sound when they're shut. Thud!

Right now I'm debating on running 2 or 3 PQ10's. My original thought was to run one in 4 way driving the tweeters and 4" speakers, and then bridge the second one to drive the 6" speakers. Well, I just found a good deal on another PQ10 so I'll have 3. I'm considering running all 3 bridged. What do you guys think?


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I'm to the more boring part of the install now. I finished up a few things and started wiring.

The first thing I did was install my fancy-pants Die Hard Platinum battery.










The Die Hard Platinum is a rebranded Odyssey. Sears had a 10% off 4th of July sale, so I bought one.

After that, I ran the main power wire that goes to the distribution block for the amplifiers. That's a 200 amp circuit breaker.










I used a piece of mdf to mount my distribution blocks down to. I'll post up a picture after everything is mounted down, and the wires are ran.

I started experimenting with mounting the tweeters. I bought my Boston Acoustics used and the tweeters didn't come with surface or flush mounts, only angle.

I started searching for information and what I gathered is these tweeters are designed to be mounted on axis. So I temporarily mounted what I had to my sail panels.










One other thing I found out was I have Boston Acoustics 6.43s, not 6.53s like I thought. From what I can tell, the main difference is the tweeter. The 6.43 has a titanium tweeter and the 6.53 has an aluminum tweeter.

Having previously ran the 6.53, and loving them, I'm wondering what I'll think of these.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

So the silicone did a better job of holding the tweeter mounts in than I thought it would. It really feels solid. I was only putting these here temporarily. I think I may just keep them siliconed in. I'll probably paint them though.










In case you were wondering why I put them on this way.










The tweeters have to be located there and I happened to have silicone on hand.

I started messing around with the 4" driver. I haven't put a lot of thought into how I was going to mount it down exactly. I thought maybe I could use butyl rubber or even silicone them in. Then it occurred to me that I could mount them down as if they were flush. Duh! So I got the grinder out and clearanced the end cap a little.










Next, I soldered the wire on.










Then I mounted everything down. It may not be very pretty but it'll work. I actually used foam to seal the speaker to the cup.










Soldered the wire to 6" driver.










Put everything back together.










It looks like nothing's there! Woohoo! You can't see the tweeters when the doors are closed so they're pretty hidden. Plus I'm going to experiment with painting them pewter to match.

After that, I did it all over again on the passenger's side. I don't think I'll have any free time to work in the truck for about 4 days, but I'll try.

I'm wanting to finish running the power wires and start fabbing up where I'm going to mount the amplifiers.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Well I got my fancy-pants terminals on. LOL. I hooked up the positive side. It has a 10 gauge wire that powers a distribution block and the 2 gauge wire to 200 amp circuit breaker for the amplifiers. I also ran another 4 gauge ground to the chassis. Part of the "big 3" upgrade.










I found a spot that I think will work as a grounding point. It's directly to the right of the gas pedal and has a plastic thing that clips on it to make it pretty. So I sanded off all of the paint and used a star washer.










Here's the board I mentioned earlier. The mounting points for all the distribution blocks.










You can see here how it's hidden underneath the center console.










There's the cup holders that hide it.










I wanted to show you guys how the box fits into the center console. If it weren't for the center console and seats from an extended can truck, I would have never been able to fit the IDMAX.










Next up, I need to figure out an amp rack. I need to put the seats back in to take measurements. I was planning on mounting to the sub box, but I think I can squeeze them in at the base of the seats.

I'm waiting on 10 gauge wire to show up for the PQ10s. Hopefully on my weekend I might get the amp mounts designed.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I started trying to figure out where I'm going to mount 4 amplifiers and an MS-8.

I had thought the MS-8 would fit under the seat. Well, it can not. It would if I still had the manual seats, but when I changed over to power seats I lost most of my under seat room. All those motors are in the way. Ugh.

So I started measuring clearance, and there's not much. None actually. The goal was to move the seat all the way back and recline the seats until the head rests touch the rear window.

I ended up mounting the amps where I had imagined them.

First I made something to mount them to.










I had to do something because the amps are wider than the box is. It's because of how the plastic interior panels are shaped.

I covered the panel in carpet and mounted the amplifiers.


















Repeat for the passengers side.


















So since the end of the amplifier hangs over a bit I made a piece for the screw to grab into so everything is solid.










I did the same thing for the other side as well.

I know I'm a weirdo and mounted my amps upside down. Not many people will ever see them and it's a lot easer to get to fuses, gains, connectors and all that.

Now I need to figure out where to mount the MS-8 and then start hooking stuff up and building RCAs.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Here's a little proof that I actually did start building kick panels. I changed my mind after changing to a center console and deciding on using an MS-8.










Check out the difference between the alternators. The stock 105 amp is on the right, my aftermarket 235 amp on the left.










What's pretty cool about this alternator is it puts out 100 amps at 800 rpm. I tested the voltage at idle. 14.67










I upgraded the charging wire to 4 gauge. I love how it just looks stock. In case you haven't noticed, that's kind of what I've been going for on this entire build.










I'm trying to find the best place to put the MS-8 since I can't fit it under my seat.

The first thing I did was measure and cut out a piece. Then I covered it in carpet.










I mounted the MS-8 to it and will mount if down to the truck after all the wiring is done.










I moved on to the installation of the head unit. I went through and shrink wrapped all the wires. I bent over the ones I won't be using. I want it to be as organized as I can get it. I have to buy some yellow and black wire for the dc converter.










Ran all the wiring through to under the center console. I'm going to modify the cd changer cable into an auxiliary input. That way I can plug in an iPod or iPad or something.










I'm to the point where it's time to start making RCA cables. Once I make that first set I can mount in the 9255. I can't wait to hear it sing again!

I'm also waiting on my order of 10 gauge wire for the PQ10s.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Well, I started wiring up the MS-8 and amplifiers. I finally got my 10 gauge wire I ordered off of eBay. It took two weeks to receive it.

I'm not quite done yet. The wires are ran but I plan on screwing them down.










I was going to hide them under the carpet but why bother? In a single cab truck, nobody will ever be able to see back there.










I got the wires all hooked up to the distribution blocks.










Now I need a full day to sit down and make/run RCAs.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

All of the power and speaker wiring is done. So I started building RCAs today. I found a pretty good write up here:

Low Cost DIY Interconnect Details, a How To Photo Gallery by shinjohn at pbase.com

What's funny is I actually found that website after I had already ordered all the pieces. I first got the idea reading on diyma. That guy in that link does a pretty good job explaining the process, so I won't go into any crazy detail.

The first thing I did was run my wire from point a to point b to get the appropriate length.

Then I cut another wire the same length and put them both inside some techflex.

After that, I scored the wire and pulled the housing off exposing the red, black and drain wire.










I learned it was best to do it this way to ensure that the RCA ends are the same length. Otherwise, if they're different lengths, it'll end up pulling one connector out.

I stripped the black and red wires. The red wire gets soldered to the center, the black to the outside. My connectors didn't have holes in them for the black wire, so I folded the wire over and crimped it down. Then I added a bit of solder to hold it into place.










One thing I wanted to mention is to connect the drain wire to the ground with the black wire. I've read that you only do this on the signal source end. I don't think it matters what end you connect it to though as long as you don't connect the drain wire on both ends.

The reason for this is because if you were to connect the drain wire to both ends it would no longer act as a shield and instead be a conductor.

So since I didn't buy left and right connectors, I bought red and black shrink wrap instead.










So, RCAs built and ran for 2 of the 4 amplifiers and from head unit to sound processor. I haven't organized the lower part there yet.










Hello old friend.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I cleaned up the drivers side amplifiers a bit.










I finished building my RCAs and got them all hooked up to the MS-8.










So I went to turn the system on...nothing. I started chasing down wires and found out that my cd player's remote turn on output isn't functioning.

After messing around with that for a bit, I disconnected it and soldered the remote wire to 12v+ on ignition. Not ideal, but it'll work.

I was running out of time but I wanted to hear it play. I put on the headset microphones and let the MS-8 do it's sweeps.

I did get to hear music, it sounded alright until I turned it up. There's a weird clicking that sounds like it's coming from the right tweeter. Every time I hear the click, the lights on the head unit would dim.

I pulled the RCAs out of the MS-8 that fed that amplifier. Still heard clicking. I'm going to mess around with it more when I have more time. From what I did hear, it sounded great. I have a spare amplifier so hopefully it'll be as simple as swapping them out. If not, I'm going to have to run one amplifier 4 way (1" and 4") and the other 2 way (6"). I wish I had more time.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

So after a lot of digging, testing and diagnosis it turns out 3 of my 4 PQ10 amplifiers don't work. One cuts out at loud volume, one doesn't turn on and only the right channel works on the last one.

So some rewiring was in order. What I did was power the tweeters off of the MS-8 and power the 4" and 6" off of the one PQ10 that works.

My install just became a lot simpler. LOL.

I'm going to have to tear apart the PQ10s and see if I can figure out how to repair them. Or find someone that can repair them for me.

My stereo install is just about finished. There's a lot of tuning and tweaking that's left to do.

So, what's a guy to do if he has an incredible SQ deck that he's in love with from 1996 but wants to listen to mp3s on an iPhone or iPod?

Simple. You tear apart the cd changer's 13 pin cord.










After ALOT of testing and experimenting I finally got it to work properly, sort of.

I found out what pins carry the audio signal and I found out how to get the receiver to switch over and play that signal. The problem is once its switched over, you can't switch back.

To remedy this, I'll need to install a switch as well as the aux input. Flip the switch and listen to aux in, flip it back and the cd player and radio function again.

I'm going to look into a different style headphone jack. Maybe there's one that when you put the headphone cord into the jack it switches on and when you pull it out, it switches off. Circuit closed with the cord plugged in, open when removed.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

I managed to repair one of my PQ10s so I rewired everything again. Now I have 1 PQ10 in 4 way mode powering the 4" and 1" and the other in 2 way mode powering the 6" drivers. I'm getting some small vibrations in the door panel at high volumes.

So far it sounds pretty good. I can't make the subwoofer distort no matter how hard I try. lol There's still a lot of tuning and tweaking to do, but I should finally be nearing completion.
I wired in a switch with my headphone jack. So that seems to be working now. I also ordered some abs plastic from parts express. I'm hoping it will be in tomorrow. Then I can start messing around with how I'm going to mount the switch.


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## Ampman (Sep 7, 2011)

That's a really nice install you doing there wow, the sub enclosure is quite impressive. Taking advantage of all the space you have. Cooool


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Thanks man!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

For future reference, if folks are searching for DRX9255 information and want to know how to add an auxiliary input for their iPhone, iPod or what ever. I found this diagram after searching for information.










Only problem is, it's incorrect. It may work for other Clarion models but it does not work for the Clarion DRX9255. It does say its for the Addzest 9255 so maybe the pinouts are different between the models.

After several more hours of searching and reading up on C-bus systems I found what is more likely the proper pinout for the Clarion DRX9255.

Pin
1. C-BUS DATA
2. C-BUS CLOCK
3. N/A
4. C-BUS SERVICE REQUEST
5. N/A
6. SIGNAL GROUND
7. CD LCH INPUT
8. CD RCH INPUT
9. AUX CONTROL IN
10. BACKUP
11. REMOTE CONTROL
12. GROUND
13. N/A

I wired up the left(7), right(8) channels and ground(6) to the radio shack headphone input. The wired pin 9 and 4 to a switch.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

A turbo AWD LS motored truck is badass! The audio is awesome too!


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

Kellyo77 said:


> A turbo AWD LS motored truck is badass! The audio is awesome too!


Dude, thank you! 

I've been reading and researching for about 2 years now. I've changed my plans from supercharged 4x4 to turbocharged awd. Nobody I've talked to about it "gets it". They all tell me it's a stupid waste of money. Then again, it's my project and I don't care too much what my peers think. I just wish someone would share my enthusiasm. lol

It's actually something I'm debating. Should I keep this thread updated after I finish my audio install? Or should I keep going with the turbo and transfer case and all that?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

iregret said:


> Dude, thank you!
> 
> I've been reading and researching for about 2 years now. I've changed my plans from supercharged 4x4 to turbocharged awd. Nobody I've talked to about it "gets it". They all tell me it's a stupid waste of money. Then again, it's my project and I don't care too much what my peers think. I just wish someone would share my enthusiasm. lol
> 
> It's actually something I'm debating. Should I keep this thread updated after I finish my audio install? Or should I keep going with the turbo and transfer case and all that?


I'd love to see what you do with it, personally. 
I'm sure you have seen all the vids of that guy Parrish truck from years ago. Turbo 4x4 LS motor truck that was absolutely sick.

Theturboforums.com guys would be into it as well. I've been a member there for several years.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

No I haven't, but I'll google it. I'll check out that forum as well. There are still a few things I haven't quite figured out how to do yet. 

Thanks!

Did you have any turbo projects?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I started building a turbo 91 mustang coupe a few years ago but never finished it. Ended up putting a little supercharger on it and sold it. Have had 3 supercharged mustangs, a supercharged 2003 Lightning, 06 turbo diesel and now have a Ecoboost twin turbo v6 f150. It may or may not be obvious that I like forced induction on my vehicles. Lol


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Kellyo77 said:


> I started building a turbo 91 mustang coupe a few years ago but never finished it. Ended up putting a little supercharger on it and sold it. Have had 3 supercharged mustangs, a supercharged 2003 Lightning, 06 turbo diesel and now have a Ecoboost twin turbo v6 f150. It may or may not be obvious that I like forced induction on my vehicles. Lol


Which car did you like best? 

Kelvin


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

subwoofery said:


> Which car did you like best?
> 
> Kelvin


Honestly I really liked them all. 
I miss the diesel the most really. Tons of room, tons of power and incredibly comfortable. 
The last mustang made 637hp on 19lbs of boost and was a blast to drive. Liked it a lot mainly because of all the time and work I put into it. 
Lightning was a great truck and loads of fun. 
My new truck is really nice too. There is a simple build thread here on it. Comfortable, tons of power, easy to drive. Hate the fuel mileage. And the payment. Lol


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## hybridamp (Oct 10, 2006)

Nice build, and great choise of headunits. 

There is no replacement for a true analog volume pot imho.


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## iregret (Jul 27, 2009)

The audio installation on this build is pretty much done, you can check out the rest of the buildup here. Transmission, transfer case swap. 6.0L, turbo installation, etc.

2000 Chevy Silverado project "Charlie Murphy" - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums


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