# 2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design - MiniDSP, Alpine, SI, Infinity, Scan



## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Sold my Audi A4 Avant last week, and while sad to see it go, I know it has gone to a great new home and it was time for something different, but the same, enter another white wagon, only this time in the shape of a 2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design. It's AWD with a 325HP turbocharged inline 6, only slightly heavier than my A4 was, it's a rocket, driving home from picking it up I had to constantly be careful of my speed as it was all too easy to be at 80+ Couple pictures of the car:


















I already debadged it, other visual changes are going to be tinted windows and lower it about half an inch or so. I don't want it as low as my A4 was, but want it lower than the stock height it currently sits at.

It came stock with the "Volvo High Performance" system, which is 3 way in the front doors, 2 in the rear and a center (I read somewhere that it is a 12 speaker set up, but I cannot figure out the 12th speaker as it has no factory sub). Eventually that will all be replaced with the below, and a Stereo Integrity SQL12 (not pictured):










So today, I decided to remove the door card to take a look at what I will be starting with. The tweeter in the sail panel just pops off, but it looks like the tweeter is somewhat sealed into the housing. In the picture below you can see the cross hatch pattern where it looks like the 2 halves were melted together. Since I don't want to demolish this, looks like I need to order some new tweeter housings:


















The factory midrange is screwed to the doorcard on a little plastic mount, hopefully as long as there is enough depth (99% sure there is) then I can simply make my own mounting plate and install the 20MX in this location:


















The midbass is mounted to the door itself, but located directly beneath the mid. Looks like plenty of depth to mount the TM65's so no major concerns there:


























Here's where things get a little confusing, at least for me. So, the molex plug boot is in a sort of Z shape, getting 3 sets of wire through is going to be a massive headache. I had hoped to tap into the stock speaker wiring, I don't run huge amounts of power, so the stock wire should be fine for me and I will just splice my own wire into it inside the kick panel. But, at the moment I cannot figure out how it's wired (not yet pulled the molex plug, hoping I can get lucky). So, here is the wiring for the tweeter and mid:










The wires are the exact same color, even the plugs are identical. Here's the wiring going to the midbass:










4 wires, no clue why. I am going to try to find some wiring diagrams, hopefully that sheds some light on things and ideally I can use existing wire through the molex. I cannot stand trying to fish wires into the doors, so am hoping for some luck. Once I get that figured, I will deaden the outer skin as much as I can and then the inner skin (the drivers door rattles like crazy).

Last picture is a quick measurement with REW of the stock system, all the EQ is flat (has a 5 band in the head unit). In all honesty, it does not sound that bad other than the complete lack of anything below 35Hz.









Over the next couple weeks I am hoping to pick up power cable and deadener and then start getting things installed. Make sure to follow to see all my screw ups!!


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm excited for you! Do you think all the wires are the same since you only need the 2 wires from the radio and then all the speakers are just run passive off of that pair of wires? I don't know anything so keep that in mind...


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Notloudenuf said:


> I don't know anything so keep that in mind...


Makes 2 of us, that could make sense though. It has a factory amp under the passengers seat, maybe a single set of wires goes into the door with a full range signal and gets split somewhere inside the door. While a neat solution, it won't help me with getting 3 sets of wire into the doors.


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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

I LOVE VOLVO's! 

This may help out: 








2003 V70 Radio wire labels


Hello everyone, I wanted to replace my stock radio (HU-613) this weekend but ran into a wiring issue. The wires from the stock radio harness do not have any lab




www.matthewsvolvosite.com





*RE: 2003 V70 RADIO WIRE LABELS*

Quote
Post by packetfire » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:28 pm



> Here's the wires (my 2001 v70 should be exactly the same as your 2003, but note that these are my notes from a 2001 v70)
> 
> Green Connector (Connector A)
> ============================
> ...



Also from Volvo FOums US. 





Aftermarket radio to factory amp wiring help - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


Volvo 850 - Aftermarket radio to factory amp wiring help - Hi again, So - working on another upgrade project and need a little help. I want to add an aftermarket head unit in my 850 and use the factory amp. I have the SC815 combo CD/Tape unit. My car has the factory amp that I want to continue...



volvoforums.com





THanks to: 
Kiss4aFrog








Administrator at Volvo Forums. 












Also from Mathews site: 








Amplifier - How Volvo adds it 9452029


I've seen a lot of requests for information on the Volvo OEM amplifiers and how to interface with them. I've got a '98 V70 R that also includes the Dolby ProLog




www.matthewsvolvosite.com








Another user here has done the same car albeit a Coupe. 








2015 Volvo S60 (P3) Stereo Install — JL, ARC, PHD, AE


Last time I ran an RCA was back in high school, when I was using Alpine V12 amps and listening to Nate Dogg and Warren G. Never lost the bug, just hadn’t had the time or the car to invest in. Well a few weeks ago I picked up this beauty: 2015 S60 T6. Turbo AND supercharged 4-cylinder making...




www.diymobileaudio.com







Also...From that thread: 


swiffcliff said:


> On to what turned out to be a much bigger job than expected: the doors.
> 
> Originally plan was to run some wires through the boot and make a quick adapter, seal, deaden and be done. After taking a look at the molex, and considering my desire to run 3 sets of 16ga wire, this happened:
> 
> ...



He used techflex. 

That should get you up and running.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Thanks, I actually sent @swiffcliff a PM about a week or so asking him questions about his install. While I like the idea of just running a new boot for the speaker wire, in his experience drilling the new hole in the sheet metal of the door was challenging enough that he would try the molex if having to do it again. 

Worst piece of an install, running wires. Not even yet looked at how I am going to get the power wire to the trunk!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Slow progress, but progress....


















Got the holes drilled into the door for the new rubber boot and speaker wire. Going to pick up some touch up paint tomorrow to paint the bare metal to protect it against the elements a little. Drilling was not as simple as hoped, but not crazy. Had to remove the door card, then pop the molex plug out from inside the door to make sure that none of the factory wiring was going to be impacted by the drill. Once that was done, the metal is 2 layers, which made drilling not quite as straight forward, but not terrible either. Getting the doors off and back on was actually incredibly simple. 

Here's a better shot of the grommet on the kick panel side of things:










And here is why I was not going to even attempt to drill the molex, no way was I going to be able to get 3 sets of speaker wire through there. 










So, next is going to be running some wire towards the trunk. I can't deaden the doors just yet, there is a recall on Volvo door latches, which the repair involves them stripping the inner door entirely to get to the latch. If I put deadening over there, then they will have to rip it all off. I am slightly reluctant to even put the speakers in to be honest, but apparently Volvo will not even have parts until April.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Another little update, previously I have always used spade connectors onto the speaker at the end of the run coming into the door itself. Decided to try XT60 connectors and make little pigtails to make life a little simpler:










Was getting annoyed with things until I picked up some decent solder, made life a whole lot easier then. These should actually come in handy if I do decide to install the speakers before the recall work as I can quickly unplug the speakers to get them out of the way of any dealer tech before taking it in.


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## Zippy (Jul 21, 2013)

Subbed. Can't wait!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Popcorn ready, looking forward to more.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Love the detail. Dang buddy that’s lookin sharp , I dig the ride , that is very classy car. 
I’m extremely jeal.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

A couple more updates, getting power wire through the firewall into the cabin first. This was a giant headache due to the lack of room, thickness of insulation etc. First thing I had to do is find a grommet, I knew there was one as @swiffcliff had managed to run power wire. But just had to find it, what I had to do is pop this cover off here where the strut brace is. The red circle indicates a grommet you are looking for:










Here is the grommet:










Inside the car, with the glovebox and a couple other bits of plastic removed around the door (kick panel trim, side of dash) I was then able to pull the carpet back and then some thick foam padding in order to see where the power wire should hopefully come in at. Feeling through the grommet at the top, I could feel the foam so knew it would be there somewhere.Initially I spent far too long trying to feed the power wire in from the top, bear in mind if you have even remotely large arms, fitting your arm in that hole by the strut brace to get at the grommet is going to suck. My forearm feels like it was shut in a door, you have to sort of put your arm parallel to the cowl there and bend your wrist to access the hole. So, after much cursing I gave up. The next morning I figured I would try and come in from the footwell with a wire coat hanger, feed it up under the insulation and hope I could see it at the grommet to pull it out there. Nope, not a chance. I then decided to try feeding the coat hanger in from the grommet at the top, while making sure to be careful so as not to damage anything. The first couple tries it felt like the hanger hit something solid, that pushed it horizontally along the dash. I was about to give up when I heard a sound of a wire coat hanger hit something in the foot well. Walked around to look and I saw this: 










Success! I followed the hanger back and could feel where it came into the cabin behind the PCM here just to the left of the wiring harness bundles. 










Back under the hood I used a bunch of electrical tape to secure the power wire to the coat hanger. I had my wife pull the coat hanger from inside while I tried to feed the wire in from the top. Even doing this it was slow going and I had this sense the wire would slip off, which sure enough, it did. Since it felt like we had managed to get the wire someway into the car I decided to reach up behind the PCM just to see if I could feel anything, while the power wire had slipped off the hanger there, it had come through enough that I was able to get my hand behind the box and pull the wire all the way through. 










Under the hood it's a straight shot from where the grommet is located across to the battery box beneath the plastic cowl. I am not sure yet how to secure it without it interfering with anything under there, but I think it is clear of the wiper motors anyway so should be simple to run it over to the battery. I think there are heater pipes there as well, my concern with those is them getting hot enough to melt the wire, I don't know that they will, but am not sure (if anyone knows how hot those get and if it would be safe, let me know) 

Next was onto the speaker wire, I had already drilled the hole in the doors and had planned to use a pair of these Electric-Life Flexible Inclined Rubber Door Wire Looms 4301-70-011 and then feed the wires through this large grommet in the kick panel area:










The center of that grommet is perfectly sized to seal against that boot. Thinking I could just snake the wires through the grommet and into the cabin, I started hunting around for an entry from the grommet. Which, apparently there is none. At least not a usable one in any visible location. Another quick message to @swiffcliff and he confirmed that yep, have to drill another hole on the inside. Peeling back the carpet at the front edge of the doors, I drilled another hole here and was then able to feed the wire through. 










Pulled the back seat cushion, upper and lower B-pillar trim, lower front and rear door trim and was then able to route my speaker wire and power wires alongside the factory wiring until finally they appeared here:










Finally, it feels like I am making some progress. The only other wires I now need to get into the trunk are going to be the signal tapped from the stock amp under the passengers seat, which hopefully (hahaha) won't be that difficult. Started trying to think of how to mount things in the trunk yesterday, the floor of the trunk lifts up to reveal quite a lot of space, I am tempted to make use of the insert under there as a sort of ready made amp rack. It's fairly thin, so I am thinking of attaching some wood/plastic beneath it and bolting the amps / DSP etc down through that.










Pro's with going this route, it's virtually ready, cons are it being flimsy. It's molded fairly tightly to everything underneath it, for example at one point I had the speaker wire resting near the air compressor and it would not go back down. The other option is to build something to go here:










Then simply mount everything to that. If it fits, I could make a large enough board that will cover the air compressor still and carpet it to match the trunk. I need to take some measurements though to see if I can get a flat piece of board to cover everything under there. Once I get the trunk figured out and the signal wires to the trunk, then things should go fairly quickly as it will just be a case of mounting speakers (not doing any sound deadening until recall is complete) and plugging everything in.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Subscribed! The wife has a 2016 S60 T5.


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## cdcreech (Feb 27, 2012)

I did something similar in my Nissan Titan truck. I mounted my amps on the factory carpeted covering that is kind of like carpeted, plastic cardboard. It‘s on the back wall of the cab. I used some DAP Weldwood Landau glue and 1/4” plywood cut to the shape, and then some bolts, nuts, and washers to mount the amps. Then that covering and plywood is secured to factory mount points and a couple of other places with rivnuts.

Looking good, buddy! Keep the updates coming!


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I haven't seen the door-less mod since the 90's. 

Slap a layer of fiberglass mat on the back of that factory tray. One layer outta stiffen it up to satisfaction. Then some paint and done.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Theslaking said:


> Slap a layer of fiberglass mat on the back of that factory tray. One layer outta stiffen it up to satisfaction. Then some paint and done.


I think I have enough fiberglass mat laying around to cover the back as well. I forget exactly what kind, but it's fairly thick mat. Just need resin. Thanks.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

This car can be maddening at times.... since there is no low level signal available (and no MOST interface available either) I have to tap into the factory amp for a speaker level signal to feed into the DSP. Since I am trying to avoid cutting into factory wiring, a few weeks ago I ordered this adapter Connects2 CT10VL05 Parrot SOT T-Harness Adaptor ISO Wiring Lead VOLVO | eBay

Now, of the 7 plugs shown I only actually needed one of them. The green one all the way to the left plugs into the output on the amp, so I cut the others off and yesterday decided to try a quick test to make sure it would work. Unplugged the factory green connector from the amp, plugged that one in and twisted the wires onto a speaker I have. Works perfectly. Great. Since I only needed 4 wires I decided to try and remove the other 12 wires giving me a slimmed down connector to work with. Removing the wires was a headache, but I ended up removing about half of them before saying screw it.

Went back to the car, exact same test as yesterday only now a few less wires on the connector and it's no longer working. Took it out and made sure it was plugged in fully, nothing. Essentially the head unit loads the navigation screen but is completely unresponsive. Plugging the factory connector back into the amp and it works fine.










What I can't figure out is why this worked yesterday and not today with the only difference being that I removed some wires (that did not actually go further than about 4"). I added a couple of the wires back in so that for every pin that is used on the factory plug (it only uses 11 of the 16) that I had something back on my aftermarket plug. Still nothing. Weird. Now I am trying to decide do I want to cut the factory wiring or not, I plan to keep the car a long time, so on that side cutting into 4 wires is not a big deal, I can strip the factory tape back and pull enough slack that I can either solder or crimp on some connections and have plenty of tesa tape to wrap everything up again. But, on the flip side it would be nice to have had this adapter ready to go with enough wire to reach the trunk, (factory amp is mounted under the passenger seat) that all I needed to do was take it to the car and plug it in, then if I ever sold the car or wanted to revert to stock it's a plug and play to put things back.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I would want to know why before I go cutting wires.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

I'm debating ordering a new harness, going to think about it for a day or so.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

For 34 bucks I would. Shoot I'd probably take one pin out at a time with the new one until it quit working or stayed working just so I would know.

Messed up a harness for my Maxima and I'm ordering another at $60. Just not worth cutting factory wires to me. Seems like a hack job, metaphorically speaking. 

I was in the same boat. Had four connectors and I only needed two. I accidentally broke a needed connector.

What gave you a hard time pulling the pins? A good trick is to use a twist with the paper burnt off to hit the release tabs on small pins.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

I'm with you on the hack job, that's why I liked the idea of making a nice harness outside the car and just plugging it in. If I buy a new harness, I'll likely just leave all the pins in there this time and tape it up. 

The pins were just refusing to budge, a couple came out fairly easily, others not so much. I have a depin tool I was using as well as various picks. 

If I have time this weekend I'm going to use 2 of the wires I removed and connect those individually to the amp output pins, then use a DMM to see if it's still getting a signal. If it is and the head units functioning correctly, I may try using the plug I already have and see if a pin is loose or something. Failing that, I'll just order the new one and be done. At least it's really the last thing I'll need, have to mount everything in the trunk and install speakers before I need this piece. Was just hopeful to get that and the last wiring from the console into the trunk this weekend.


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## ejeffrey (Oct 8, 2015)

Probably a dumb question, but were any of the wires that you cut connected to each other? Maybe the amp needs to see a certain load, or poor connection on the pins? Just guesses...


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## GubbNicke (Sep 6, 2009)

First. I'm following this thread with great interest!

I believe that the original amplifier needs to have the load from the speakers to start. Just try to connect the wires from your connector to the original connector and see if this is the case. I also believe at least the Helix DSPs compensate for this.when using high level input. A MiniDSP is probably doing the same.
When it comes to a MOST-interface, I have replaced my original amplifier with a Helix SDMI25 in a Volvo V70 -14. Seems like it should work with at least some V60s as well.

And, (You will hate me for this) that plastic sheet under the wipers is probably 5-10 minutes to remove.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

ejeffrey said:


> Probably a dumb question, but were any of the wires that you cut connected to each other? Maybe the amp needs to see a certain load, or poor connection on the pins? Just guesses...


Nope, none connected to each other. Just 16 wires coming out of that aftermarket plug each with about 3" of wire going nowhere other than the 2 I had attached to a speaker. I actually tested previously to be sure the amp didn't need something on every pin, so that should rule out the load requirement. Poor connection on the pins is possible though, even though the connector is very tight. 




GubbNicke said:


> I believe that the original amplifier needs to have the load from the speakers to start. Just try to connect the wires from your connector to the original connector and see if this is the case.


I would have thought the same, but initially when I tested I only had one aftermarket speaker on the factory amp, nothing else on any other pin/wire, so the load would not have mattered. When I first tried and the connector was not fully seated, it didn't work, but after removing wires and checking again I made sure it was fully in place. 



GubbNicke said:


> When it comes to a MOST-interface, I have replaced my original amplifier with a Helix SDMI25 in a Volvo V70 -14. Seems like it should work with at least some V60s as well.


I'll look into that, doesn't seem like an inexpensive piece of the puzzle, but if it works it may be worth it. 



GubbNicke said:


> And, (You will hate me for this) that plastic sheet under the wipers is probably 5-10 minutes to remove.


No hate here, I've not yet ran the cable to the battery, its just tucked under there for now. Do you have instructions on removing it? Thanks


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## GubbNicke (Sep 6, 2009)

Ah crap that it wasn't the load. Then I'm out of ideas.



> No hate here, I've not yet ran the cable to the battery, its just tucked under there for now. Do you have instructions on removing it? Thanks


Have a look at 3:40 into this one. 



 It is in Swedish and it is on a V70, (Which in many areas is very similar to the V60) but I think you will get the basics.
In addition to this, you will also have to remove the strut bar on your car.
In this video, he also shows another option get the cable into the cabin. Don't know if this is present on the V60 as well, but I wouldn't be surprised.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

That video was helpful, might be able to pop the front of the plastic up enough to run the power wire over, that can wait for a minute though. 

Looked up that SDMI25, $550 is the cheapest I can find it but then I also need a MOST Y- cable to code it to the Volvo. Going you have to think about that, on the one hand I'd love to run optical to the DSP, on the other, that's a lot of money!! At least it's an option though assuming it works with the V60, which according to the compatibility list it should be.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Not much of an update, thinking of going with this layout for the amps and DSP if I use that factory tray:










The way the tray is shaped makes it somewhat difficult to mount them anywhere else, my only concern with this layout is that accessing the gains on the front of the amp will be impossible with them fixed in place. But, at the same time, once the gains are set it's not like I need to change them again. I think I only changed them once or twice the entire time I had them in the Audi. I'll likely take another look at putting a piece of board under the trunk floor one more time and mounting the amps to that, but that has it's own challenges as it will need to have some sort of legs to keep it level since it will need to sit higher in some areas than others. Hoping I can make the factory tray work, I have some fiberglass mat that I can strengthen the bottom with, just need some resin and supplies although in all honesty I think it may be solid enough as is. 

If I do go with the layout in that picture above, I just need to find some short RCA's! No concerns with the current ones I have, but only needing 10" or so would make having to tuck 6' RCA's somewhere annoying.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Clean layout!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Made some more progress over the weekend, decided to move the DSP up towards what would be the top right of the tray (in the picture above). Cut power and ground wire to length from the distribution blocks and located what I believe should be a decent ground in the trunk. Additionally, ran the high level wires from the factory amp to the trunk:










Not much to look at, the darker green plug will be replaced with the lighter green plug and that blue wire will get spliced into the red wire on the darker green plug. I have no idea why it worked previously with that red wire (or blue in the case of the light green plug) not connected, but apparently it does need to be connected. To get a switched 12V I had to tap off the back of the front 12V socket between the cupholders, this meant removing the entire HVAC panel, in order to access a pair of screws just before the shifter to release the center console. I tried using a wire tap to retain use of the 12V socket, but for some reason never have any luck with those, since I rarely ever use the 12V socket I decided to just disconnect it and use spade terminals. At some point I may revisit getting the socket working again, but for now not overly concerned.

Since I had the center console taken apart I took the time to also run the DSP remote and a coax cable for an Fiio from the arm rest to the trunk as well. Of course, this did not go 100% smoothly, after getting the wires under the carpet and into the trunk, I realized I had put the coax cable in backwards, thankfully I was able to just tape a piece of old speaker wire to it, pulling the coax back through pulled the speaker wire through and I then reversed things to get the coax facing the right way.










I'd prefer a more fixed location for the DSP remote, but so far have not found any places suitable, so it may just stay in the arm rest. If I get time to this week I plan to drill a couple holes in that factory tray to pass power, ground and signal wires through before starting to permanently mount everything to it. With that done the trunk should come together fairly quickly and I can then move onto mounting speakers in the front doors. If everything goes smoothly, hopefully another week or two and I should be up and running.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

With the social distancing in place currently, I have been home and so able to get on with the install. First up was figuring out a way to mount the tweeters, the stock sail panel is a fairly complicated thing in that you can't actually buy it without a stock tweeter mounted due to the way it is constructed. With it removed from the car there are 5 plastic rivets that need to be carefully drilled out, while making sure not to drill through the side or front of the housing. Oddly, the drivers side the rivets were much simpler to drill, the passenger side the top of them had been melted with something which meant having to drill more to get them out. Eventually I was able to separate the 3 pieces and remove the stock tweeter, unfortunately the tweeters I had planned to use were too large to fit exactly in the stock housing. Some thinking and drilling a new hole later and I was able to secure them with a screw and nylon washer I had: 










You can see the white nylon washer and screw in the center of the picture, as well as some of the points I had to drill (screw bottom left, black screw on the right as well as a hole near the top left and 2 more on the bottom right). Annoyingly, when I went to test fit this into the car the nylon washer stuck out so far that it would not allow me to mount the housing. I had no shorter screws, so in the end decided to try and use some contact cement and glue the tweeters. Left them sitting overnight and sure enough, next morning they are solidly mounted. 

The mids were fairly straight forward to mount, although I suspect they may be touching the grill so might have to mount them slightly differently. The white plastic baffle screws to the back of the door card:










Volvo left me this nice little rubber flap that I could cut a hole and slip the speaker wire through, I wish I had noticed this before as I would have left my tweeter wires about a foot longer and used the same hole. Instead, I had to drill a hole for the tweeter wiring, but at least this worked perfectly for the mid:










Mounting the midbass was fairly simple, I had ordered a pair of brackets to use and they lined up perfectly. You can also see the hole I had to drill for tweeter wire in the top left of the pic (it's large due to needing to fit the XT60 through):










As you may notice, there is currently zero sound deadening treatment applied to the doors, as I mentioned earlier in the thread this is due to an open recall that I am waiting on being performed which requires dismantling the inner door to replace the door latches. 

I decided on this for the final layout, the amps still need final mounting (I need to access the front for the gain controls) and wires tidying up some, but this is ultimately where everything will sit:










With that done, I ran the power wire across the engine bay to the battery and it's alive:










Unfortunately, it sounds like garbage when using the speaker level input. As in, next to no output, muffled and crackly. In the picture above you can see my Fiio that I temporarily connected via RCA to rule anything post DSP out as being a problem, when using the DAP everything works perfectly. So, something is not right with the speaker level input, either a setting in the DSP (I can't find any) or something else going on. I am hoping to figure out what it is fairly quickly so I can get a baseline tune set up and secure the amps.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Tried a factory reset on the DSP as well as changing internal switches. No difference, well, its slightly louder garbage. 

I'm debating cutting into the factory wiring now, I'm fairly confident the wiring harness I'm using is good. I hooked it to a spare speaker and it sounded ok (for a single speaker twisted to some wires). But, the DSP plays fine via DAP, so it must be something on the speaker level input. The hardest thing with cutting into the factory wire is the minimal room to access the wires. 

If it's still no good after that, then I'll have to get the Helix adapter.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Trying to figure out the issues with using high level input, I took the following videos. The first is using the speaker level inputs into the DSP and as you can hear, it sounds awful:

[VIDEO]




The second is the same speaker wire I am using for the speaker level inputs, but this time connected to a pair of old surround speakers I had laying around (rules out an issue with the wiring between stock amp and DSP input):

[VIDEO]




And finally, the 3rd is using my Fiio into the DSP via RCA (just to rule out any issues on the output side of things):

[VIDEO]




A member on the Volvo forum mentioned the stock amp being Class D and the original speakers being 2ohms and that the MiniDSP input spec of 68ohms could be causing the stock amp to have stability issues with it seeing the 68ohm load. However, I am not smart enough to understand that, even though I think it makes sense. Going to reach out to MiniDSP tech support and see what they have to say. Anyone has any ideas?



Edit: Per the recommendation of a guy on swedespeed, I wired those speakers in video 2 above in parallel with the MiniDSP input so that the stock amp sees the lower load. Sure enough, doing this everything works. What I think I will have to do is remove the aftermarket harness I am using and try to swap the pins over (although removing any from the aftermarket harness proved incredibly frustrating) or either cut the wiring for the front speakers on the stock harness / use t-taps for the signal to the DSP, then plugging the factory plug back into the factory amp. That way the factory amplifier will still see the load of the rear speakers, which in turn should resolve the issue with the DSP input. I can fade the factory head unit all the way to the front which should mean the rears are not playing anything and causing problems with the sound stage. Not ideal as I had hoped to avoid any modifications to the factory harness (no real reason why, was just hoping not to do so), but it looks like I either do that or buy the Helix.

Edit 2: Went out to the car (working from home) cut the factory harness, spliced onto the wires going to the DSP input, thinking finally, I can move on with things. Nope. Still sounds terrible. Fade to the rear and the rear speakers are working, I can't figure out how to turn off the center speaker (I am sure I can pull the grill and disconnect it). But, at this point I am going to say screw it and order the SDMI25.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Wow! I can’t believe I missed this or I thought I was already following it - old age is yucky! 

I’ve sort have been following vs text, but so much better to see it on here. Very cool that several dudes are pushing out good ideas and resources - what I love about these build threads! I’m so looking forward to hearing this - either at the rescheduled NCSQ Meet or a mini-Meet in the near future (when this COVID-19 crap is over with).

Great job Ian!!!


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## Zippy (Jul 21, 2013)

Have you considered running a JL fix after the amp to get a sum’d output that’s flat before the MiniDSP? That should get a stable signal for you but adds a part and complexity to the whole project. Not certain of Volvo specific options other than the JL that will work on anything.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

I had briefly thought about using the JL Fix, I know @swiffcliff uses one in his Volvo and it works perfectly with the factory amp in the chain. I am hopeful though, that the Helix SDMI25 will work to give me a flat stable signal to the MiniDSP. Just have to wait a couple weeks to find out.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

While I wait for the SDMI25 to arrive, I figured I will just use the Fiio as a source and try to get a quick tune set up. This is where the MiniDSP comes into it's own IMO, took me all of 10 minutes to get something set up that while not perfect, is already an improvement over the stock Volvo system. I think I need to change the amp gains slightly, at least on the midbass as it is lacking a little (this could also be due to there currently being no real treatment on the door, although it is sealed up almost completely from the factory, but I suspect the plastic is a little flimsy that they used to seal it). At the moment I am just using a small fiberglass subwoofer enclosure that I had in the Audi before the suitcase, it does the job, but looking forward to getting the SQL-12 eventually. 

I did discover that I need to swap the ends on the MiniDSP remote wire, the little retainer clip has broken off on one end. Of course, this end happens to be the end that I have the remote connected to and so it falls out constantly. In time, that would not be a problem, but since I will currently be using the wired remote as the volume control (line out from the Fiio) the plug falling out is not helpful. At least I am hardly driving at the moment, so it's no rush. 

I think as well I am going to try to implement some form of rear fill in the D-pillar area. Not sure exactly how or when yet, but I really enjoy the effect that it gives so ultimately would like to run it again. There are speakers in the rear doors, but from previous experience that location does not work as well.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Thanks to @GubbNicke for bringing this to my attention... 


















Also picked up a Y-cable in order to program the Helix with the Volvo serial number:










I believe the factory amp has a 12V and ground that I can use for powering the Helix, so will likely figure out some way of mounting it under the passenger seat. It's pretty small and not at all heavy, so I may just use some strong double sided tape or velcro. If I can remove the factory amp without removing the passengers seat I will, but I don't know that will be possible. Might try and temporarily wire it up later to get it coded to the Volvo.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

It works. Gave me a bit of a headache, at first I tried splicing into the factory amp for power, but this was awkward due to needing the factory amp plugged in at the same time to copy the serial number over (I could not cut the factory amp power wire and t-taps were not getting through the insulation) . Couple attempts and failures at that, I decided to temporarily just run a wire direct to the battery to get the Helix powering on. Plugged in the MOST Y-cable, powered everything on and waited a few seconds until I figured it would have had long enough to copy the serial. Unplugged the factory amplifiers power and removed the MOST Y-cable, next I set the jumpers for the Volvo, but noticed the LED on the side blinking away indicating the jumper settings were wrong. There are actually 2 x V60 listed in the manual, tried the second one and the LED stayed constantly lit. 

Opened up MiniDSP plug in, switched over to TOSLINK and it works. Now I just need to figure out a permanent mounting location for it and then onto the next step.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That is awesome! I feel like doing what Homer is doing (but I don’t think I can at my age). I’m very happy that worked, and now you have a very solid source for the MiniDSP. Well done!


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## Zippy (Jul 21, 2013)

If you are pulling the factory amp due to it not being needed anymore, then that sounds like a perfect spot for it to go. I don’t know if door chimes and other alerts need to still go through the amp though.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Door chimes, navigation and bluetooth audio seem to all still work with the factory amp unplugged. I would assume bluetooth phone calls will still work as well, although I have not tested that. Looks like I either need to see if I can remove the factory amp without removing the passengers seat, or if that has to come out first.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Update time... this arrived earlier today:


























At the weekend I had started putting together a sealed enclosure for it, nothing fancy, just a simple sealed enclosure. I somehow (despite my awful carpentry skills) managed to put together an enclosure where per WinISD I get an alignment of 0.706. Not bad!! The rear seat in the Volvo folds in 3 sections and I wanted to still be able to fully use 2 of the sections, the enclosure lines up perfectly with the size of one of the seat pieces:










I did however have to remove the dog net from the back of the seat to get an extra inch of clearance, not a big deal since I had one in the Audi and never used it, I don't see myself using it in the Volvo either. Cut out the hole for the subwoofer on the baffle and then mounted it, I have carpet on order but it won't be here until Monday, did I want to wait until Monday to get the subwoofer installed? 

Nope. 










I noticed after screwing it down that it is upside down, oh well, it has to come out for the carpet to go on anyway. Wired up in the car and a quick demo, no tuning yet as I don't have time, so the tune is set for the 10" MB Quart I had temporarily running in there. All I can say is damn, I am looking forward to getting it dialed in properly. It's by far the largest sub I have owned, even with it just plopped in there with no tune it sounds incredible. Hopefully, either tomorrow or Saturday I can get a tune set fully now that I have everything where it is going to go. While I am doing that I also plan to bridge the PDX V9 channels to the TM65, they are currently spare and I am torn on whether to go to the trouble (even though I really like it) of fabricating something for rear speakers to make rear fill worthwhile. Instead, I may as well give the TM65 some additional power


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That is awesome! I’m really excited to see the SQL15’s getting to several guys I know......I want to hear them! Great job getting that enclosure in there!!!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I see that we are now twins lol..


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Coppertone said:


> I see that we are now twins lol..


Well, now you need to get on and get the Accord finished and bring it down so we can catch up properly


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Y-cables arrived today, so the TM65's are now bridged, giving them a nice bump in power. Carpet also arrived for the enclosure, the match is not perfect, the picture makes it look better than it actually is (I also only bothered to carpet the visible sides):










It tucks into the corner of the trunk pretty nicely, there's no way to really hide it, but I'm happy with it for now. Long term I would like to either essentially make the baffle span the trunk, but doing that means giving up a large amount of usable trunk space, so not sure yet, or do something a little more creative, à la a suitcase, at the moment I am not sure what though.

I called the Volvo dealership last week about getting the recall work completed on the doors, as expected, they are not even sure when they are getting parts due to the current global climate and said it will be at least June that they have any idea. So, sound deadening is still on hold, which is a little annoying, as there are some annoying rattles especially in the passenger door. I think I will spend some time tuning this week and then just enjoy it for a while.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Time for a small update, back when I had the Audi I always enjoyed the effect of rear fill, so once I got the front stage dialed in with the Volvo have started to think about the rear fill. Knowing that rear door locations don't typically work well I had to look further back and higher up. Unfortunately, there are no speakers in the D-pillars and none available from the factory either with speakers in them. Likely because the pillar is pretty small and the way the metal is shaped behind them there is not actually all that much room for speakers either.

Before tearing into things too much I wanted to temporarily mount some speakers in the rear to see if they would work out. Enter a spare set of Dayton RS75 I had (used to be in the kick panels in the Audi) and a pair of PVC cups.


























Yes, the PVC cups look awful! I covered them in black electrical tape just to somewhat disguise them. Anyway, so they work as expected so the next step is to try and figure out a way to mount them. In that 3rd picture above, the red outline is about where I plan to mount them. However, as I previously wrote there is not much room at all behind the pillars. So, I am going to have to likely use some fiberglass to build them out, similar to A-pillars. I ordered a new pair of pillars last week, thankfully they are cheap, $12 each brand new. Even if I royally screw them up, it's not a bunch of money down the drain. In my head I want to make them appear as stock as possible so am somewhat hopeful to shape the baffle similar to this:










But make the grill flat, not with that step on it. There are a few problems with this approach....

1) I'm not that skilled.
2) I don't own a router.
3) I don't have anything I can press a grill with
4) My fiberglass skills extend to a single subwoofer enclosure, never attempted pillars.
5) Did I mention, I'm not that skilled?

Ultimately, this could end in disaster. But we'll see.

I'm also trying to figure out how to run the rear fill through Dirac. With Dirac 3.0 I can assign speakers to zones, but what I cannot yet find out is that can I assign the front stage and sub to zone 1, then assign that Dirac calibration to preset 1 on the DSP, then assign the rears to zone 2, run calibration on that and also assign it to preset 1, but without the zone 2 calibration messing up the zone 1 calibration. Running them all on the same zone, Dirac basically lowered the output of the front stage to match the rears which just caused me to lose a ton of output.

Edit: Dang, just got an email that one of the D-pillars is on nationwide back order with Volvo. That throws a spanner in the works. If I remove my current ones and screw them up, I am stuck with no d-pillar for who knows how long.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Use car-part.com to find a salvage yard with your trim package the email them for part availability.

They have a part finder but it sucks for finding specific trim parts. I have had good luck emailing the yards directly.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Also use the part number on eBay as I’ve ordered trim pieces and replacement door panels several times before and always turned out well..


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Entered the V60 in the competition in NC this weekend and am pretty happy with the outcome, 2nd in IASCA amateur, 1st in MECA street. 










I got some decent feedback from the judges, which I suspect (and hope) is as simple to remedy as just treating the doors. Basically lacking below 200hz. Volvo have yet to complete the door latch recall, so the doors are still stock in terms of the baffle, deadening etc. Since it's a big plastic panel, I'm guessing that's robbing me off midbass.

Just hoping that removing said plastic panel does not require removing the window like one video i watched showed.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Congratulations!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Door latch recall was completed yesterday, so today I started tearing the doors apart for some deadening. 










Getting the window out was more nerve wracking than anything else, I also managed to remove the interior panel which involved removing the exterior door handle (the mechanism is attached to the panel that needs to be removed to access the outer skin, removing this handle in the correct manner so that you can get it installed again was a PITA). So far I have added butyl rope behind the crash bar as well as added a little to all of the clips that hold the door card onto the door itself. Tomorrow I will apply CLD, CCF and use tesa tape or butyl rope wherever needed. Also got some foam rings to go around the midbass to door card. 

Then hope it all goes back together smoothly, lining up the door latch, exterior handle mechanism etc. I am sure will be a headache. But, we'll see. Once that is done, I get to repeat it for the passengers side.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Both front doors have now been treated, about 90% CLD on the outer skin, then some strategically placed pieces on the plastic panel and a layer of CCF. I may add some CLD to the back of the door card, but so far so good in terms of rattles. The doors close with a nice clunk (I suspect part of this is down to them having new latches) and knocking the outside feels like they are filled with concrete. There is about 2" at the top of the door that I could not get at with CLD, in the picture below it is the part where you see the Volvo logo, the metal here is enclosed so I could not get any back there even if I wanted to do so.










The drivers door lock cylinder was a headache to get back in, as was the passengers side window (it kept going behind the guides). I had to remind myself to not fight the window too heavily as I did not want to break it. Eventually after taking out and and trying about half a dozen times it popped into place. Overall, not the worst job, glad I took the time to fully remove the panel to access the outer skin and do it properly though, I don't feel like doing that again anytime soon.

I have not re-tuned anything, but the midbass does appear to be improved and so far zero rattles from either door. Volvo did a pretty decent job and all the wires were already wrapped in foam, I taped down some that are no longer in use, butyl rope on every clip and the CCF took care of anything else. I've got a decent amount of both CLD and CCF left over, so if anything does need some additional treatment already have supplies on hand.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

WOW!!!


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## SuMb0dY (Oct 23, 2012)

The last time I did car audio was in my 2008 Audi A4 and WOW were things simpler back then.... just plugged RCA inputs into the back of an aftermarket Pioneer Head Unit and just like that you can hook up pretty much any speaker you like and it will sound outstanding. I have a 2020 V60CC now and a subwoofer sitting in the trunk (not connected) and I have absolutely no idea where to begin. I'd like to just hook the sub up and call it a day (since its a lease, I don't want to do a crazy build like I did in the Audi) but I just learned today that the car seems to have no factory subwoofer! So I have no idea where to splice in the signal for the subwoofer amp.

Will I have to get the Helix SDMI25 just to generate a signal for the subwoofer amp? Care to point me in the direction of some instructions on how to get a signal for this MOST system? I bought an AudioControl LC2i hoping to simply tap into some speaker wires for the sub but since there is none, not sure I can tap into a rear door speaker without just disconnecting it entirely and losing the rear fill.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I did a quick Google search.

2008 Audi A4 factory subwoofer replacement

A4 sub amp wiring diagram


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

BP1Fanatic said:


> I did a quick Google search.
> 
> 2008 Audi A4 factory subwoofer replacement
> 
> A4 sub amp wiring diagram


He used to have a 2008 A4, now has a 2020 Volvo.



SuMb0dY said:


> The last time I did car audio was in my 2008 Audi A4 and WOW were things simpler back then.... just plugged RCA inputs into the back of an aftermarket Pioneer Head Unit and just like that you can hook up pretty much any speaker you like and it will sound outstanding. I have a 2020 V60CC now and a subwoofer sitting in the trunk (not connected) and I have absolutely no idea where to begin. I'd like to just hook the sub up and call it a day (since its a lease, I don't want to do a crazy build like I did in the Audi) but I just learned today that the car seems to have no factory subwoofer! So I have no idea where to splice in the signal for the subwoofer amp.
> 
> Will I have to get the Helix SDMI25 just to generate a signal for the subwoofer amp? Care to point me in the direction of some instructions on how to get a signal for this MOST system? I bought an AudioControl LC2i hoping to simply tap into some speaker wires for the sub but since there is none, not sure I can tap into a rear door speaker without just disconnecting it entirely and losing the rear fill.


I hear you, used to have a 2006 A4, so much simpler a car to install into!! I'd recommend contacting @SkizeR he has a 2019 Volvo and should be able to help out. Think things are different between my 2015 and the 2020, his S60 likely matches exactly what you have. I'd think you can tap rear speakers for a subwoofer, but you'd need to be sure they are full range first.


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## SuMb0dY (Oct 23, 2012)

naiku said:


> He used to have a 2008 A4, now has a 2020 Volvo.
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you, used to have a 2006 A4, so much simpler a car to install into!! I'd recommend contacting @SkizeR he has a 2019 Volvo and should be able to help out. Think things are different between my 2015 and the 2020, his S60 likely matches exactly what you have. I'd think you can tap rear speakers for a subwoofer, but you'd need to be sure they are full range first.


Thanks!!! Looks like you and I both left Audi for Volvo =D I love them both.

So I reached out to SkizeR and turns out I am super local to his shop, so I'm just going to take my car to him probably next week and get it done!!

BTW, Congrats on the awards and the build, it looks amazing. Wish I had a garage and a car I owned so I can really tear into it like this


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

SuMb0dY said:


> Thanks!!! Looks like you and I both left Audi for Volvo =D I love them both.


Yep, I still have a soft spot for my Audi, had it for 11 years before getting the Volvo. If Audi had offered a 6 cylinder in the Allroad, then I may well have ended up in that instead of the Volvo. I'm really happy with the V60 though, the main thing I wish it had is Android Auto. There are some options out there for adding it, so that might be on the cards eventually. Put new wheels on the V60 yesterday, will likely lower it 0.5" or so next and then cosmetically call it done.



SuMb0dY said:


> So I reached out to SkizeR and turns out I am super local to his shop, so I'm just going to take my car to him probably next week and get it done!!


Excellent, that worked out nicely then!



SuMb0dY said:


> BTW, Congrats on the awards and the build, it looks amazing.


Thank you.


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## dakine_surf (Jun 16, 2020)

naiku said:


> Yep, I still have a soft spot for my Audi, had it for 11 years before getting the Volvo. If Audi had offered a 6 cylinder in the Allroad, then I may well have ended up in that instead of the Volvo. I'm really happy with the V60 though, the main thing I wish it had is Android Auto. There are some options out there for adding it, so that might be on the cards eventually. Put new wheels on the V60 yesterday, will likely lower it 0.5" or so next and then cosmetically call it done.


Would love to see some Pics of the wheels... I have a soft spot for long roofs too.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Ask and you shall receive...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Niiiiiiiiiiice!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

They look so fantastic Ian! Great choice my friend - likely even better in person. I’ll see them soon. 


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

My son's 2001 S60 got rod knock last month while his mother was driving it. He bought a silver 2018 S60 T5 a couple weeks ago. I'm so glad this thread exist. I have to figure how to connect 2 Orion Cobalt amps to the factory premium system. I see I have to get midranges for the front doors. He has 2 sets of Orion Cobalt 6.5" components too. I'm putting 6 JBL GX1200's in an isobaric BP4 or BP6.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Honestly, to make life simple I would just pony up for the SDMI25. It's not the cheapest thing, but made it so easy to get a nice signal from the factory amp to the DSP.


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## swiffcliff (Aug 25, 2016)

Deets on those wheels? And do they come in matte black?


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

swiffcliff said:


> Deets on those wheels? And do they come in matte black?


They are 19x8.5 Sparco Podios, bought them from Tirerack. I was a little nervous about fitment due to the offset, but Tirerack said they fit and they did. They do come in black, but only gloss black. They have the Sparco Assetto Gara, similar price for the 19's and those say black painted, not gloss or matte, just black painted. Hard to tell from the online pictures though what sort of black it is. 

Working on a couple engine mods for the Volvo this weekend, had a Magnaflow muffler installed a couple months ago, installing a GFB DV+ and Do88 turbo intake this weekend.


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## swiffcliff (Aug 25, 2016)

You went for the 19s! Good man. I'll be curious to what you think about the Do88. It's on my "nice to have" list.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

swiffcliff said:


> You went for the 19s! Good man.


Debated 20's for a short time, but in the end figured 19's were a better idea for multiple reasons and am happy I went with them. 



swiffcliff said:


> I'll be curious to what you think about the Do88. It's on my "nice to have" list.


I'll let you know in a few days, I'm keeping my fingers crossed the install is easier than any of the stereo install!!


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Dam bro ..... car is sick ....

How ya been


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

swiffcliff said:


> I'll be curious to what you think about the Do88. It's on my "nice to have" list.












So... the install was time consuming, the wipers, cowl etc so come off, but then you get plenty of room. Unfortunately I couldn't get the GFB DV+ installed, factory bolts are rusty hex key and I didn't want to risk rounding them, so will pay a shop to du that. 

But, the intake...Fitting it was not as simple as I hoped, just not much by way of tolerance making it tricky and the engine cover sits just a little off center, which is bugging me. However, throttle response feels a little better and you can clearly hear the turbo spooling up. I'm happy with it, just wish parts weren't so crazy priced!



oabeieo said:


> Dam bro ..... car is sick ....
> 
> How ya been


Thanks, all good here. How about with you? Hope everything's going well.


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## given_to (Jun 10, 2012)

Do88 makes some quality kit for the Volvos. I’ve got their intercooler and big pipe kit on my C30 and it performs flawlessly. That’s a nice looking ride!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Thanks, the FMIC is on my wish list.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Going okay now....... after over a year of putting my wife through the ringer and back I think things finally working out.... I can think audio again ....


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

naiku said:


> Honestly, to make life simple I would just pony up for the SDMI25. It's not the cheapest thing, but made it so easy to get a nice signal from the factory amp to the DSP.


Turns out my son has the base 8 speaker system. Were you able to remove the factory amp without any issues to other electrical components? I just want to go from factory radio to aftermarket amps.

Does the light green harness work with both the 12 speaker and 8 speaker amp? I went to Connect2's website and I did not see a 2015-2018 S60/V60 amp harness.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

The only thing I noticed with removing the factory amp entirely, was that FM reception went down hill. I almost never use FM, so it was not a problem to me. I'm not sure if the factory amp powers on an FM amplifier somewhere, but never bothered looking into it as I frankly did not care. The amp looks the same as mine, as far as I know 8 or 12 speaker system the amp is the same and it's just coding. 

Here is the harness that I bought Amazon.com: Autoleads SOT-045 Accessory Interface Lead: Automotive Most of it is not needed, but you can't buy it separately. It might be worth reaching out to this guy.... P3 stuff for sale. TDI Box, Snaab intake, Amp harness he's selling an amp harness that he was using with the standard factory amp. Saves $20 on that Amazon link and looks like it is ready to go.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm game to experiment. Thanks guy!

Autoleads SOT-45


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Update time, so since day 1 I never really liked using the factory tray to mount the amps, DSP etc. While it was not terribly flimsy, overall it was not that strong and due to the various bumps and such, was very restrictive as to where I could mount anything. Finally started to address that this past weekend... 

First up, a cardboard template.










With that done, transferred that over to some 1/2" ply and cut it out. 










It's a tight fit, but then I don't want it flopping about. There are 2 factory bolts that I am hoping to utilize in order to bolt it down, likely with some kind of a metal bracket on both sides. I've got some sound deadener and MLV on the way, also have some leftover CCF from the doors, so before it gets mounted I plan to install that beneath the board. I've got some black carpet on the way to cover it with (might have to trim it a little to fit with the carpet on, depends how thick the carpet is) and I am also debating adding sides, although not sure I will. 

The other thing that bothered me with the previous installation, the wiring was a mess. OK, it was functional and no one could actually see it, but it was a mess. I am hoping with a blank slate to be able to tidy this up some. Ordered some firewall grommets and am trying to figure out how best to mount everything where I can easily access controls if needed, but also that it looks neat and the wiring is clean. At the moment I have this.











But, not set on it. There is a space almost directly beneath the Volvo badge that the factory air compressor / fix a flat was, it's deep enough that I think I could put the power / ground distro blocks there and just have those completely hidden. 

Eventually, I may also add some lighting and then replace the factory false floor with something with a plexi window / vents or something.

The other update is that I added an Android Auto / Car Play type add on to the factory head unit, while it works well and having access to multiple streaming apps, Google maps is nice. The problem is if I don't have the engine running, the screen shuts off and it also introduced some noise to everything. You can't hear the noise while playing music, but it's there. 

So, that's where things stand today.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

Can't believe I missed this thread  Pretty impressed that you were willing to remove the doors... almost tried it in the Mustang but used the factory wiring instead, so nice work there! Looking forward to a demo in May!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

I like your plan! I like the idea of having the distro blocks underneath as long as they can still be got at in the event of an issue. I like the Volvo emblem as well  I’m looking forward to my next demo as well - sounded incredible last November!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

bertholomey said:


> I like the idea of having the distro blocks underneath as long as they can still be got at in the event of an issue.


The potential for an issue is my main concern with putting them under there, have I ever had a problem, no, but that's not a guarantee that I never will. I think if I put enough slack in the power / ground coming up from underneath to lift the main board up / disconnect the amps if needed I should be OK. But, have to give that some thought. 



bertholomey said:


> I like the Volvo emblem as well


I saw that in the garage on my old grill and thought it would be a neat thing to include. Assuming that I do use it, then I will probably put in some lighting and have an idea for a plexi window.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

A little more progress today, drilled various holes for wiring to go through, then covered in carpet. Final layout will look much like this, the power and ground distribution blocks are mounted to the underside. 










I'm going to add a quick disconnect on the main power and ground wires, so that if I need to remove it, I just disconnect and lift it all out as one piece.

Hopefully I can get the wiring neat and finished this weekend, then just waiting for the disconnect to arrive.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Anderson SB Powerpole?


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Yeah, one like this... Amazon.com


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Looks fantastic my friend - very serviceable - and that means a lot when you need to adjust gains - ask me because I know 


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Making some steady progress, got the amps and DSP mounted, ran power, ground and RCAs on the back of the panel, keeping the front neat and tidy.

Not much to see on the back, distribution blocks and wiring. I'm hoping to find a way to tidy this and secure it a little. May add some short legs to raise the board up a little, just to give them a bit of extra room.










Fronts coming together nicely, need to add ferrules to amp power connections, figure out speaker wire routing and then it's mostly finished.










With the trunk empty, decided to lay down some sound treatment on the metal.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Progress, progress... Added a layer of Noico foam on top of the butyl tiles, while not crazy quiet back there it has made a difference (primarily in the noise from the Magnaflow I have installed).











Finished connecting everything on the floor itself, at some point I would like to do something a little neater with the speaker wire, but don't want to go cutting any before I know with certainty what I want to do:










With the bottom done, I considered cutting a window / vent into the factory false floor piece. But, while I can get one cheap enough from eBay.co.uk (about $100) shipping would suck, the part new is over $300, so I figured I won't cut into that but instead make a new one.




























The front (or back, depending on your perspective) opens up for easy access to the amplifiers, at some point I plan to install a light under there to illuminate the Volvo logo / amps. I had to add some bracing under the back (or front) piece as it was bowing with the subwoofer on top. I'll likely add a little more, just for added security. The other thing is with the panel open, it does contact the subwoofer, not the cone, but the mounting ring, so not a huge deal, but I may install something to prevent it opening that far.










Next I need to find some matching carpet, install a handle of some kind and see if these clips are available separately (which may be more of a headache than just unscrewing and using these):










I then plan to order a small piece of plexi to insert as a window into the hinged piece. During daily use, I have an all weather trunk mat, but for shows, competition and so on I can remove that to have the window visible. The problem with this idea though, is I don't own a router and not sure I want to buy one just for this, so I'll have to figure that out.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Great progress for sure! It looks terrific, and I’m excited to see it in person in May. 


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## chasingSQ (Sep 25, 2017)

looks good bud


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## Dpoteat (Nov 16, 2021)

I have a 2018 S60 and the factory amp has a connection for FM booster from the deck. Probably why your reception stinks.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Dpoteat said:


> I have a 2018 S60 and the factory amp has a connection for FM booster from the deck. Probably why your reception stinks.


That's what I figured, think I actually found the FM booster under the trunk floor, but obviously it's not going to do anything with the factory amp in the laundry room. 

Not a big deal, anytime I put on the radio I am reminded after about 30- seconds why it's awful.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Got impatient waiting on carpet for the top cover to arrive (ordered a sample card, turns out they're out of stock and no idea when they're getting more) so I ordered a bunch of 1/0 cable, some distribution blocks and started planning where to put these 3 beauty's (thank you @Electrodynamic)










There's a factory bracket that holds the satellite radio tuner that I believe can hold the DSP nicely. So, I'll soon be pulling things back out.


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## swiffcliff (Aug 25, 2016)

naiku said:


> Got impatient waiting on carpet for the top cover to arrive (ordered a sample card, turns out they're out of stock and no idea when they're getting more) so I ordered a bunch of 1/0 cable, some distribution blocks and started planning where to put these 3 beauty's (thank you @Electrodynamic)
> 
> View attachment 324666
> 
> ...


Whoa baby! Dem some good lookin' amps!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

naiku said:


> Got impatient waiting on carpet for the top cover to arrive (ordered a sample card, turns out they're out of stock and no idea when they're getting more) so I ordered a bunch of 1/0 cable, some distribution blocks and started planning where to put these 3 beauty's (thank you @Electrodynamic)
> 
> View attachment 324666
> 
> ...


Sometimes very good things can come out of our impatience  You have the space, and they will look fantastic when you show them off! 


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

Congrats on the new amps Ian, they look fantastic!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Ordered everything I needed to swap out the amps, looks like that should all be here by Wednesday, so pulled the Alpines earlier and mounted the SIQ amps:











I'm likely going to mount the distribution blocks on the top this time, with the much MUCH heavier SIQ amps, I'd be concerned about the weight pushing down on any wiring underneath, plus having to run the extra wire, I figure it made more sense to go on top. Thinking of putting them in the colored blocks on the image, the orange dot at the top is the ground location, so about a 2' run to the distribution block on that side, the battery run comes in on the right, so the power block can be there. 

The yellow rectangle at the top is where I am thinking, hoping, to be able to mount the DSP. Have to think about that though for a bit. 

Yes, I realize the 1500.1 is upside down, but it should make cable management at least a little easier.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

naiku said:


> Ordered everything I needed to swap out the amps, looks like that should all be here by Wednesday, so pulled the Alpines earlier and mounted the SIQ amps:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is going to be SO good!!!! I can’t wait to see / hear it in May!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Made some progress the last few days, slower than hoped, but progress. First managed to pull the 1/0 gauge to the trunk, I initially used the same grommet that the 4ga went through, while the 1/0 fit, I couldn't get the rubber grommet back in, I did not like the idea of the wire rubbing against a metal edge.

Slightly reluctantly, given it was such a pain to get in initially, I pulled it back out. A little digging around and I found a huge factory grommet with a bundle of wires going through that had room to the side for the 1/0. Some careful poking, then some really careful drilling and I had it back through, now securely I'm a rubber grommet. From there, it's fairly easy pulling trim to route to the trunk. I do need to pull the B pillar again as the seatbelt is slow to retract now, I suspect it's not sure seated in a guide properly.

Working with 1/0 gauge sucked, so dang thick and it refuses to really bend all that much.

That done, I moved onto figuring out how to mount the DSP, then added power wiring, RCAs and distribution blocks to the board. The additional small block is because the 1500.1 has dual inputs.










Tomorrow's goal is to get this back in the trunk, connect the main power, speaker wiring and DSP power. All being well I can then start setting gains etc.

I also ordered a piece of plexi today to go on the false floor in making as a window over the large amp. I'm not sure yet how I'll mount that, but it's on the way at least. Also need to figure out what lighting to install and how to wire it up, hoping that's a simple task.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Painful progress, but positive progress. Very cool to see the amp rack displayed like that - watch your back picking it up and putting it in - you will certainly need another set of hands - wish I were closer bro. 


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Finally got everything powered up today, a little nerves when I first turned on the ignition, but all good. 










I had some difficulty with the last little pieces of the main power and ground wire, just the complete lack of flexibility made it challenging. Overall the swap from 2 amps to 3 wasn't terribly difficult, but took way more time than I anticipated. Part of that though was me trying to really get the wiring as neat as I could, clamp it down where possible etc. 

Peeling the protective layer off the amps sure felt good! I just quickly set gains roughly and a short listen, hopefully tomorrow I can set them properly and then tuning begins.

One problem I ran into, the factory false floor has bumps across it, those were preventing it going all the way down, so I put my half finished wooden one in. I've ordered a piece of plexi and think I've found a good match on carpet, so I can get that finished reasonably soon anyway. 

For now, I'm happy to not have no music in the car.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

So, the carpet sample card I ordered has still not arrived, however I did get them to send me a sample of the 1 color they had in stock, as luck would have it, it's a pretty dang good match. So, went ahead and ordered a yard of carpet, that arrived earlier this week and so today I started wrapping the floor pieces.










After I wrapped this piece, I realized that I needed to order 2 yards. I'm about 8" too short with the remaining carpet I have left to finish the floor, but, lemons into lemonade, I figure with the spare carpet I'll re-wrap the subwoofer enclosure since that is a much darker black, that way everything should match nicely. I do believe that I need to trim maybe 1/8 - 1/4" off the other floor piece to get it to fit, while it does go in there, I think once that is also carpeted, it's not going to fit. For now, I removed the hinge but I may revisit that at some point.

An LED strip should also be on it's way, so that along with the plexi and this should be all wrapped up in a couple weeks. I'm unsure on the plexi window yet, I do want to use it, just not yet wrapped my head around mounting it without buying tools I don't already have (and learning new skills, those are also useful).


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

I see the finish line!!!

The remaining carpet arrived early yesterday, so went ahead and wrapped the last floor piece as well as a press fit type of panel that lifts off to show the amplifier beneath:



















There is a slight difference between the 2 batches of carpet, it's less noticeable in person (thankfully). There's a small piece near the tailgate opening in the center that I may try to pull and smooth a little, it was getting close to the edge there so did not wrap around as much as I would have liked.

As you can also see, the lights came in, for now they are just plugged into that 12V outlet in the trunk. Unfortunately, that is constant 12V so I have to unplug them, it's not a big deal though. At some point I may hard wire the lights to a switch underneath the panel, but given they will likely only actually be used at meets and not all the time, I may just leave it plugged into that outlet when I want to use them. Last thing left to do is to remove the carpet from the subwoofer enclosure and wrap it in the matching carpet as the floor, I'll probably work on that later this week.

Overall, pretty happy with the end result. In the past I have never really bothered with trying to make things look all that neat/presentable in the trunk, just gone for functional and since it is typically hidden, not really worried about how it looks. So, for me, I'm happy with the result, if I were to do it again, there are a couple small details I would likely try to improve on, but that's just me being picky.


Of course, one thing I do need to figure out next, since installing the SI amps I have developed a new rattle somewhere in the passenger door during piano notes!!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That looks terrific Ian! I'm very glad you took the plunge to stretch your skills and experience to take this on......it was ambitious, and you did a fantastic job. I'm looking forward to seeing the update with the sub covered, and seeing the entire display at the meet


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

You need to convert to bandpass for complete stealth!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

BP1Fanatic said:


> You need to convert to bandpass for complete stealth!


I've thought about doing something completely stealth with the sub on more than one occasion, just can't yet figure out what I want to do. I'm all about the stealthy look though and it does bug me a little that the sub is just right there. Here is the enclosure in my previous vehicle... 










So, yep, all about stealth, just not sure yet what that will entail in the Volvo. I'm also trying to retain as much trunk space as possible.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

IB with a fake wall behind the sub(s) could work too.


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

I've got some ideas banging around 🙂


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

naiku said:


> Ordered everything I needed to swap out the amps, looks like that should all be here by Wednesday, so pulled the Alpines earlier and mounted the SIQ amps:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


wow those reallly are some sexy amps. 🙀


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Okay wow , I read whole thing , I haven’t seen this since the 1st page….. man it’s come a long way….

and dam I can get over your car , super fly….
the fronts , the dome mids , how u likin those w Dirac …. Pretty sweet?


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

oabeieo said:


> Okay wow , I read whole thing , I haven’t seen this since the 1st page….. man it’s come a long way….
> 
> and dam I can get over your car , super fly….
> the fronts , the dome mids , how u likin those w Dirac …. Pretty sweet?


Thanks man, so.... the dome mids were great, but and it appears I never got around to updating this piece, I swapped them out probably within 6 months of installing them for a pair of Audiofrog GS25's. The GS25 was able to happily play just that bit lower to help elevate the entire stage some. Still got the domes kicking around in the box, maybe one day I will revisit rear fill and try to put the in for that purpose.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

naiku said:


> Thanks man, so.... the dome mids were great, but and it appears I never got around to updating this piece, I swapped them out probably within 6 months of installing them for a pair of Audiofrog GS25's. The GS25 was able to happily play just that bit lower to help elevate the entire stage some. Still got the domes kicking around in the box, maybe one day I will revisit rear fill and try to put the in for that purpose.


aah yes , domes don’t like to go low without being riddled with breakup…..

Will you put probably the best 2 inch speaker ever made in there. I did a set of those in a Nissan Titan and could not believe how much output I was getting in the 300-400hz range from a 2! Super impressive drivers….


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