# 2010 Volvo C30 Dynaudio, HAT, Arc, Stereo Integrity



## trevordj

Last weekend I started an installation in my 2010 Volvo C30. This build log will serve to document the progress of said installation. I believe this is the first C30 to show up on here. 

A disclaimer: I like to think that I know what I am doing but in reality, I do not. I have been lurking on this site for almost a year trying to absorb as much information as I can and pretending to know something every once in a while. While I have done several installations for myself and friends I am afraid my skills are nowhere near many on this forum. In short, I am very intimidated. However, I am willing to risk public humiliation to keep my installation honest. I welcome all respectful criticisms and suggestions as, first and foremost, I am here to learn (hopefully without destroying my car). 

I will post updates as I complete the build. Unfortunately I will be limited to 2-3 weekends a month to devout to this as I am a physician and end up taking weekend call 1-2 times/month. In short, this will not happen overnight. 

Some shameless pics of the car:


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## trevordj

The gear and plan:










Everything is purchased and in my possession with the exception of the SI BMs and JBL MS-8. The BMs will hopefully get here soon. Until the MS-8 is released I will be running everything unprocessed. 

The SI BM MkIIIs will be going under my front seats (there is BARELY enough room but I think it will work). The amplifiers will be going in the spare tire well, the spare will be removed. I am going for stealth.


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## trevordj

On Monday I had an unexpected day off and was able to get started. 

The passenger compartment interior was stripped.




























I started by cleaning everything with a good all purpose cleaner followed by laying down some SPL tiles



















Next went down some black damplifier



















Finally, down went some luxury liner pro




























This represents about 10 hours of work. I ran out of daylight and ended up putting my front seats and center console in leaving the carpet out for the week. Next weekend I will fill some of the gaps in the LLP to try to get more thorough coverage without causing interior fitment issues. Further I will remove the spare tire well and start deadening the hatch. 

That is it for now. My posts are pic heavy, please let me now if it is overboard and irritating. 

Thanks for now!

Trevor


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## chefhow

Absolutely love that car!!! I went last night and test drove one as well as a C70.


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## BlueAc

Good luck with the install...


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## trevordj

chefhow said:


> Absolutely love that car!!! I went last night and test drove one as well as a C70.


They are awesome little cars. I had my heart set on a VW GTI and test drove a c30 when my wife and I were headed to the VW dealership to start talking $. The rest is history, I ordered the car a few weeks later and am so far very happy with it.


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## nick561

looking good so far
ps love the car


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## trevordj

BlueAc said:


> Good luck with the install...


Thank you!


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## CA4944

Excellent choice of materials! I've always thought that these were photographer's cars, and I'm definitely looking forward to your documentation of the build. 

What do you shoot?


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## Kenny_Cox

saw a commercial for that car last night, must say. pretty damn cool.

how are you guys fitting subs under your seats? There is no way I could fit anything under mine.


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## trevordj

nick561 said:


> looking good so far
> ps love the car


Thank you!



CA4944 said:


> Excellent choice of materials! I've always thought that these were photographer's cars, and I'm definitely looking forward to your documentation of the build.
> 
> What do you shoot?


Thank you sir!

I shoot a Nikon D90 (LOVE this camera). I was excited to start the build log because, among other reasons, it gave me a reason to pull out the 10.5mm fisheye.


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## CA4944

Yeah, as a Canon user, I'm justifiably envious of your 10.5 fisheye!

Keep the pictures coming!


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## Echo42987

Like the car as not many people have them. Just curious though, why even bother w/ the Dyn mids? Why not just throw some L8's in there?


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## trevordj

Kenny_Cox said:


> saw a commercial for that car last night, must say. pretty damn cool.


Thanks man!



> how are you guys fitting subs under your seats? There is no way I could fit anything under mine.


I know for me my seats sit up on a rail and blocks (arrows). This elevates the seat about 3 inches and there is another 3-4 inches under the seat itself. I will glass a box that fits under each seat (square outline).


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## trevordj

Echo42987 said:


> Like the car as not many people have them. Just curious though, why even bother w/ the Dyn mids? Why not just throw some L8's in there?


Almost everything I purchased was from the forum. The Dyns showed up for a reasonable price so I figured I would give them a shot. I have no experience with either speaker and I try not to get too hung up on any particular brand. I am sure I would be happy going either direction. I don't have the time to find someone with each speaker installed for me to demo, so I just went for it. I am sure I will be happy if my installation is sound.


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## Echo42987

trevordj said:


> Almost everything I purchased was from the forum. The Dyns showed up for a reasonable price so I figured I would give them a shot. I have no experience with either speaker and I try not to get too hung up on any particular brand. I am sure I would be happy going either direction. I don't have the time to find someone with each speaker installed for me to demo, so I just went for it. I am sure I will be happy if my installation is sound.


oh no I gurantee you will be. Just was curious to why you chose to go a different route. Wasn't sure if you were trying to stay within certain freq. or something, who knows. But I ran dyns and just recently made the switch over the Hat's. Thinking I'm gonna love them all though.


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## trevordj

Echo42987 said:


> oh no I gurantee you will be. Just was curious to why you chose to go a different route. Wasn't sure if you were trying to stay within certain freq. or something, who knows. But I ran dyns and just recently made the switch over the Hat's. Thinking I'm gonna love them all though.


Hopefully they work out for you. What were the dyns lacking that you hoped to correct by switching to the HATs?


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## Kenny_Cox

trevordj said:


> Thanks man!
> 
> 
> 
> I know for me my seats sit up on a rail and blocks (arrows). This elevates the seat about 3 inches and there is another 3-4 inches under the seat itself. I will glass a box that fits under each seat (square outline).


impressive. between the stupid heated seat stuff and the power seat stuff there is barely enough room for my hand under my seats. i cannot even fit anything under the back seats of my SUV. Somewhat annoying!


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## Jaloosk

trevordj said:


> That is it for now. My posts are pic heavy, please let me now if it is overboard and irritating.


Nice car Trevor  the more pics the better, IMHO!


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## trevordj

Jaloosk said:


> Nice car Trevor  the more pics the better, IMHO!


Thank you and welcome to the forum!


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## astrochex

It looks like you have planned well.

Where are you going to put the drivers?

The pictures are outstanding! Subscribed.


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## Echo42987

trevordj said:


> Hopefully they work out for you. What were the dyns lacking that you hoped to correct by switching to the HATs?


All honesty, Output. I won't lie, I'm a big SQ fan but love it super load. Or maybe it's just my hard of hearing 

I have the 362 set. Loved the quality of the speaker truly loved it. Great build, etc. and I'm sure you did your research on how great they are as they're raved about on the forums. But they seemed to be tiny in my application and didn't get to that (I hate saying it) "loudness" I expected from them. Yeah that sounds very stupid lol but I can't think of any other way of wording it. :laugh:


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## Kenny_Cox

I thought I asked you. But, I didn't.

What program did you design that system layout in? Tis awesome!


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## AdamTaylor

have they announced the release date on the ms-8 yet?


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## trevordj

Kenny_Cox said:


> I thought I asked you. But, I didn't.
> 
> What program did you design that system layout in? Tis awesome!


I use a combo of Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator. I took all the component photos in my living room, masked them in Photoshop and then assembled the diagram in Illustrator. I'll post some of the pics when I get home.


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## trevordj

AdamTaylor said:


> have they announced the release date on the ms-8 yet?


Not yet, Andy mentioned in the epic MS-8 thread to expect an announcement in the next couple weeks. He also mentioned to expect some activity at the upcoming spring break nationals. I am trying to be patient, but hopefully it is released soon.


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## tinctorus

Out of curiosity how was it getting that factory radio out??

I have only had the chance to work on a few and I have always used the auxillary input for what I was doing


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## EEB

trevordj said:


> I shoot a Nikon D90 (LOVE this camera). I was excited to start the build log because, among other reasons, it gave me a reason to pull out the 10.5mm fisheye.


Build looks good.

When I first saw some of the pics I figured they were probably taken with a fisheye. I had 2 copies of the 10.5 fisheye in the last year and a half. Sold them to fund other stuff. Plan on getting another one sometime this year. My thrid copy won't get sold though.  

Look forward to seeing more pics!


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## Brian_smith06

sweet car. im liking this build


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## stockman2010

what did you use for deadening, and how do you install it?

Thanks


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## trevordj

astrochex said:


> It looks like you have planned well.
> 
> Where are you going to put the drivers?
> 
> The pictures are outstanding! Subscribed.


Thank you for the kind words. 

Locations:

L3: 2x A-pillars, 1x stock center location
L1 Pro: stock center location
L1 Pro SE: Stock sail panel 
MW 172: Doors
System 162 GT: Stock rear location

Here is what I am thinking


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## trevordj

tinctorus said:


> Out of curiosity how was it getting that factory radio out??
> 
> I have only had the chance to work on a few and I have always used the auxillary input for what I was doing


The stock head unit is a piece of cake to pull... although I suspect what I pulled is really only an LCD display. The car's UI is connected by a fiber optic system IIRC so I wouldn't ever want to mess with relocating anything or trying to put an after market unit in.

All that was required was prying the trim, 










prying the panel behind the floating console (after opening the glove box for access), 










pushing the display out from behind, and pulling the connections.










Pretty straight forward.


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## trevordj

stockman2010 said:


> what did you use for deadening, and how do you install it?
> 
> Thanks


I am using Second Skin products SPL tiles, black Damplifier,  and Luxery Liner Pro. 

I have some Overkill Pro, and Overkill on the way that will hopefully get here by the weekend for doing the doors and some of the panels. 

Everything was/will be installed per the instructions on their website. I will be aiming for more thorough coverage with the LLP when I dig back in this weekend.


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## SSCustoms

Beautiful car! That may end up being the replacement for my V70.


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## trevordj

Some more photos of the gear (just for kicks really), taken in my living room a couple weeks ago:


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## trevordj




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## trevordj

SSCustoms said:


> Beautiful car! That may end up being the replacement for my V70.


Thanks man! I REALLY like the V70 as well. That will be next car I buy for my wife. We are hatchback folk I suppose.


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## jorgegarcia

Love the car, I wish I had the balls to get one, and while on the subject of huevos, 



trevordj said:


>


That takes some big ones


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## tinctorus

jorgegarcia said:


> Love the car, I wish I had the balls to get one, and while on the subject of huevos,
> 
> 
> That takes some big ones


What exactly is it you are pointing out in the picture?? I'm not following


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## tinctorus

trevordj said:


> The stock head unit is a piece of cake to pull... although I suspect what I pulled is really only an LCD display. The car's UI is connected by a fiber optic system IIRC so I wouldn't ever want to mess with relocating anything or trying to put an after market unit in.
> 
> All that was required was prying the trim,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> prying the panel behind the floating console (after opening the glove box for access),
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pushing the display out from behind, and pulling the connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty straight forward.


Wow thats honestly much simpler than I had imagined.....

Like I said the only thing custoemrs ever want me to do is install satellite radio so I just go into the console and use the auxilary input and have never even bothered to try and pull the radio since I had no use to


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## 3fish

Stunningly good looking car and great potential thread. Subscribed.

I'm a little confused on your system diagram using the MS8 with the passive crossovers.


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## jorgegarcia

tinctorus said:


> What exactly is it you are pointing out in the picture?? I'm not following


Not my picture, OP stated and pointed in the first page of the thread that he plans to build the subbox under the seat, thus he posted a picture of where exactly he'll build it. I just think he has big planters nuts.


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## tinctorus

jorgegarcia said:


> Not my picture, OP stated and pointed in the first page of the thread that he plans to build the subbox under the seat, thus he posted a picture of where exactly he'll build it. I just think he has big planters nuts.


Ahh OK :laugh: I was confused as to what you were talking about


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## trevordj

jorgegarcia said:


> Not my picture, OP stated and pointed in the first page of the thread that he plans to build the subbox under the seat, thus he posted a picture of where exactly he'll build it. I just think he has big planters nuts.


Yep, correct. Thank you!


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## trevordj

3fish said:


> Stunningly good looking car and great potential thread. Subscribed.
> 
> I'm a little confused on your system diagram using the MS8 with the passive crossovers.


I plan on doing a quasi-active 3 way front stage (active low pass to front mid-bass, active high pass to front midrange/tweet combo). There are several reasons for this however, most practically, it is because the MS-8 has 8 channels and I will be running a center channel and rears. This arrangement was recommended by Andy Wehmeyer and I thought I would give it a shot. There will be very little distance between the midrange and the tweeter (about 2 inches) and the crossover frequency is 5.7 khz, thus the tweeter and midrange will be within one wavelength of one another and on the same horizontal plane. Hopefully this will translate to the intensity of both speakers being close enough. I think it will, but if not I can change it up.


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## gitmobass

This should be a fantastic build!
Nice pics, btw. I've got a D50, so I can imagine how nice the D90 is!


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## Canadian_Dude

Sweet build! My buddy had a c30 the year it came out, it was t5 R-Design, man that car was cool. You will be glad to know it's moose proof. He hit a moose on the highway at 120km/h and walked away!


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## trevordj

Canadian_Dude said:


> Sweet build! My buddy had a c30 the year it came out, it was t5 R-Design, man that car was cool. You will be glad to know it's moose proof. He hit a moose on the highway at 120km/h and walked away!


 'tis a shame to see but I am glad he is ok. Gotta love Volvo's dedication to safety!


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## f#1man

Quick question...I've been eyeballing this car for a while. Do you know if there's space behind the wheel wells to build kicks? I've ridden in a s40 and the kick panel area is angled (almost like a hump) Just wondering if there was space enough to cut through the sheet metal and enough depth in the wheel wells for the widest placement possible.


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## trevordj

f#1man said:


> Quick question...I've been eyeballing this car for a while. Do you know if there's space behind the wheel wells to build kicks? I've ridden in a s40 and the kick panel area is angled (almost like a hump) Just wondering if there was space enough to cut through the sheet metal and enough depth in the wheel wells for the widest placement possible.


I think it would be pretty difficult to do. Not impossible, just difficult. I actually thought about going this route myself, and then I saw the kicks. Unfortunately almost all the wiring in the car is routed right through the kicks, on both sides. 

These are pretty cropped down, but you can see what I am talking about. It would take a lot of rerouting. I am unsure of the space between the floor pan and the wheel well, after I saw this my mind was set.


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## f#1man

trevordj said:


> The stock head unit is a piece of cake to pull... although I suspect what I pulled is really only an LCD display. The car's UI is connected by a fiber optic system IIRC so I wouldn't ever want to mess with relocating anything or trying to put an after market unit in.
> 
> All that was required was prying the trim,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> prying the panel behind the floating console (after opening the glove box for access),
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pushing the display out from behind, and pulling the connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty straight forward.


In the second picture...any room behind the center console to build a sub enclosure? It looks pretty spacious behind the cd/ac control panel.


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## audio MD

trevordj said:


>


GREAT Pics!!


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## douggiestyle

love the car. seriously thought about one but the options started adding up. Did yours come with the stock Dynaudio system?


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## BodegaBay

A C30 R-design! Great looking car Trevor. Nice to finally see a Volvo in the build thread. I rarely see any aftermarket builds of Volvos. Like you I'm rooting for the MS-8 to come out; my system is already installed and running but awaiting that last piece of outboard processing.

I love the current design language across their entire Volvo line. The C30 and XC60 are the most stylish of the bunch. Actually, if I wanted something praticaly and sporty, I'd choose the V50; for an estate, it's very good looking. 

It's funny you mentioned the GTI -- which I have (below ). I tested the A3 and C30 but thought the GTI was much more fun to drive. But in styling, the C30 trounces all sport hatches. May I ask what made you change your mind the last second? And, did you know Volvo recently face-lifted the C30 just this year?


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## sidneyspencer

awesome pics!!


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## trevordj

f#1man said:


> In the second picture...any room behind the center console to build a sub enclosure? It looks pretty spacious behind the cd/ac control panel.


Funny you mention that, I actually thought about mounting a center midbass in that exact position. I don't think there is enough room for a sub, but there is certainly enough room for a midbass mounted IB. The problem is the floating console sits immediately in front of the panel. With it being so close to the speaker I was concerned about how it may effect the sound of the midbass. It also opened up other problems including the fact that I would have needed to introduce extra processing for the center channel. In the end I decided it was too complicated. It is very much possible however.


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## trevordj

douggiestyle said:


> love the car. seriously thought about one but the options started adding up. Did yours come with the stock Dynaudio system?


Yep, stock Dynaudio system came with the car. It actually sounds pretty good (better than any other stock system I have heard). My two beefs: the dolby PLII just doesn't sound right, the low end is limited, there are some buzzes/audible distortion coming from the center channel location limiting the level the center channel can be played, the total system output is limited.


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## trevordj

BodegaBay said:


> A C30 R-design! Great looking car Trevor. Nice to finally see a Volvo in the build thread. I rarely see any aftermarket builds of Volvos. Like you I'm rooting for the MS-8 to come out; my system is already installed and running but awaiting that last piece of outboard processing.
> 
> I love the current design language across their entire Volvo line. The C30 and XC60 are the most stylish of the bunch. Actually, if I wanted something praticaly and sporty, I'd choose the V50; for an estate, it's very good looking.
> 
> It's funny you mentioned the GTI -- which I have (below ). I tested the A3 and C30 but thought the GTI was much more fun to drive. But in styling, the C30 trounces all sport hatches. May I ask what made you change your mind the last second? And, did you know Volvo recently face-lifted the C30 just this year?


I still REALLY like the GTI. I agree that it was more fun to drive; it feels like a go-cart. There were a couple things that made me change my mind however. First, I previously owned an Audi and had nothing but problems. It was electrically possessed and had its fair share of mechanical problems as well. After all the problems I had with it I swore I would never own an Audi/VW again. I couldn't get over that previous experience despite how much I liked the GTI (further, Volvos have a reputation of being very reliable). Second, I fell in love with the interior fit and finish of the Volvo. It generally felt more refined. Third, I like the exterior styling of the Volvo slightly more. Fourth, I was impressed with Volvos track record WRT safety. Lastly, I suppose I like that it was a choice off the beaten path a bit.


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## tinctorus

BodegaBay said:


> A C30 R-design! Great looking car Trevor. Nice to finally see a Volvo in the build thread. I rarely see any aftermarket builds of Volvos. Like you I'm rooting for the MS-8 to come out; my system is already installed and running but awaiting that last piece of outboard processing.
> 
> I love the current design language across their entire Volvo line. The C30 and XC60 are the most stylish of the bunch. Actually, if I wanted something praticaly and sporty, I'd choose the V50; for an estate, it's very good looking.
> 
> It's funny you mentioned the GTI -- which I have (below ). I tested the A3 and C30 but thought the GTI was much more fun to drive. But in styling, the C30 trounces all sport hatches. May I ask what made you change your mind the last second? And, did you know Volvo recently face-lifted the C30 just this year?


Hey when you bought your GTI did it come with one of those little "fast" action figure things???

I have been searching for one for awhile just cause I thought they were neat but when I was looking everyone wanted like 150-200 dollars for it......screw that :laughL


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## BodegaBay

Trevor: those are solid reasons. Let's hope Geely doesn't ruin the brand in the coming years. I look forward to seeing your build progress.

tinctorus: yes my purchase did come with a fast creature. VW shipped them to all GTI owners. I sold mine for $50. You can still find them around that price on VW GTI Forum / VW Rabbit Forum / VW R32 Forum / VW Golf Forum - Golfmkv.com - Powered by vBulletin.


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## tinctorus

BodegaBay said:


> Trevor: those are solid reasons. Let's hope Geely doesn't ruin the brand in the coming years. I look forward to seeing your build progress.
> 
> tinctorus: yes my purchase did come with a fast creature. VW shipped them to all GTI owners. I sold mine for $50. You can still find them around that price on VW GTI Forum / VW Rabbit Forum / VW R32 Forum / VW Golf Forum - Golfmkv.com - Powered by vBulletin.


Do they do anything like light up or move I wasnt sure I just thought they looked cool and would look good glued to my toolbox :laugh:


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## Greg S

Nice to see a C30 build. I really wanted one a few years ago but the wife couldn't wrap her head around the design so we ended up with a Mini Cooper S. It was fun but had too many design and build flaws so it had to go. It'll be nice to see how this comes out. I really want to see how your under seat sub comes out. I've done the same in the xB and it worked out nice.


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## trevordj

Greg S said:


> Nice to see a C30 build. I really wanted one a few years ago but the wife couldn't wrap her head around the design so we ended up with a Mini Cooper S. It was fun but had too many design and build flaws so it had to go. It'll be nice to see how this comes out. I really want to see how your under seat sub comes out. I've done the same in the xB and it worked out nice.


Thank you Greg. It's funny, my wife had to talk ME into the design. The more I really looked at the car the more the design grew on me. Now, I find it tastefully unique. The facelifted version on the other hand I really don't care for. Let's just say I am very happy I ordered the car when I did.


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## trevordj

I just got a visit from UPS filled with more sound deadening from the good folks at second skin. I will be busy this weekend. 

Seventy seven degrees and sunny sounds like productive weather to me.


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## m3gunner

trevordj said:


> I just got a visit from UPS filled with more sound deadening from the good folks at second skin. I will be busy this weekend.
> 
> Seventy seven degrees and sunny sounds like productive weather to me.


Quit braggin'... it's STILL raining out here in "Sunny" California.


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## 60ndown

gonna be a sweet ass ride to drive when its done.

church quiet @ 70 mph with oodles of sql.

nice.......


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## Kenny_Cox

m3gunner said:


> Quit braggin'... it's STILL raining out here in "Sunny" California.


oh boo hoo!

here in the great white north, it's freezing cold. I don't even like to work on **** in the garage, with the heat on, while wearing gloves.:mean:


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## hobie1dog

sweet choice in components, you da man. I'm really anxious to hear what your comments are using the BM's on bottom and the Hybrid on top.....the cream of the crop for sure.


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## bruther

Nice ride. The more pics the better. 

May I ask why you used both Damplifier pro and SPL tiles?

What kind of wiring are you using?


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## trevordj

bruther said:


> Nice ride. The more pics the better.
> 
> May I ask why you used both Damplifier pro and SPL tiles?
> 
> What kind of wiring are you using?


I actually am using regular black damplifier, not damplifier pro. I guess I used both because I got the black damplifier at the introductory price and I ended up purchasing the SPL tiles locally from a forum member. I actually didn't plan on using the spl tiles, but they were a good price so I figured I would give them a shot. 

By the way, the SPL tiles are awesome. They are very beefy but the small pieces make them easy to work with. 

In short I am using them both because I have them, no other really good reason. 

Busy today, I will post some updates this evening.

As far as power cable and speaker wire, I will probably use Stinger pro as I already have some laying around (still need to buy some more though). I will probably pick up some regular stinger speaker wire from Darvex while I am at it, 16ga all around, maybe 12ga to the subs.


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## trevordj

Alright, some more progress today:

Overall, just more sound deadening today. This always takes longer than anticipated, but I am thinking I will be done with this after two more days of work (which puts me at next Saturday) Hopefully next Sunday I can move on to running power, remote, and speaker wire. 

Stripped hatch trim and carpet:



















Laid a few SPL tiles in the hatch, I am starting to run low on these. 




























Then some damplifier




























Next, some luxury liner pro down. I got the rear hatch completely done, but still need to add some to the front of the rear wheel wells.


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## trevordj

The stock rear dynaudio speaker: 



















Plastic basket!?










Next, some deadening in the rear quarter panel. First the stock sound deadener:










After some damplifier:










Finally some overkill pro:










That was it for today. This represents 10 hours worth of work, 20 hours total on the project. Hopefully tomorrow will be slightly more fruitful as, since it is the weekend and I don't need to drive to work tomorrow, I was able to leave the interior out. This will save me a few hours work. 

Thank you for looking!

Trevor


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## lucipha

Great build so far. I thought it was funny that you posted the picture of the L1 Pro SE certificate because I have set #032, and from one of the first posts my answer is there is no such thing as too many pictures. Keep them coming.


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## f#1man

Have you noticed the c30 being noisy? When I drove my buddies s40 it was almost unbearable on the freeway. I love the c30 but a difficult kick panel install and noise might be a dealbreaker for me.


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## trevordj

lucipha said:


> Great build so far. I thought it was funny that you posted the picture of the L1 Pro SE certificate because I have set #032, and from one of the first posts my answer is there is no such thing as too many pictures. Keep them coming.


Thank you! I will be sure to do so.



f#1man said:


> Have you noticed the c30 being noisy? When I drove my buddies s40 it was almost unbearable on the freeway. I love the c30 but a difficult kick panel install and noise might be a dealbreaker for me.


No! The C30 is the quietest car I have ever owned (My previous car was a mid 90s Audi), and among the quietest I have been in stock. In this car you could get away with doing only doing the doors and calling it a day if you were going to put after market speakers in. I am only doing the sound deadening because I want to do the project right, I have no time deadline, and I enjoy learning how my cars are put together (ie by taking them apart).


----------



## quality_sound

trevordj said:


> I still REALLY like the GTI. I agree that it was more fun to drive; it feels like a go-cart. There were a couple things that made me change my mind however. First, I previously owned an Audi and had nothing but problems. It was electrically possessed and had its fair share of mechanical problems as well. After all the problems I had with it I swore I would never own an Audi/VW again. I couldn't get over that previous experience despite how much I liked the GTI (further, Volvos have a reputation of being very reliable). Second, I fell in love with the interior fit and finish of the Volvo. It generally felt more refined. Third, I like the exterior styling of the Volvo slightly more. Fourth, I was impressed with Volvos track record WRT safety. Lastly, I suppose I like that it was a choice off the beaten path a bit.


Wow, everything you mention not liking are all things VW is know for, especially safety. The MkV is also the most reliable platform they've probably ever made. And fit and finish VW has absolutely nailed and rivals the interiors of cars costing double the money. 

Don't think I'm trying to say the GTI is a better car. Just thinking your past experiences kept you from fully researching the GTI. I just got rid of my GTI in December. Not because I didn't like it, but there were some compromises I was tired of making. The DSG transmission and the incredibly small hatch area. 

I like that you went for something a little different. I LOVE the look of the C30 and we almost bought an S40 but it was just a little bit too small so we got my wife her GLI. 

On the bright side, the S30 is many times over easier to work with in regards to the audio.


----------



## trevordj

quality_sound said:


> Wow, everything you mention not liking are all things VW is know for, especially safety. The MkV is also the most reliable platform they've probably ever made. And fit and finish VW has absolutely nailed and rivals the interiors of cars costing double the money.
> 
> Don't think I'm trying to say the GTI is a better car. Just thinking your past experiences kept you from fully researching the GTI. I just got rid of my GTI in December. Not because I didn't like it, but there were some compromises I was tired of making. The DSG transmission and the incredibly small hatch area.
> 
> I like that you went for something a little different. I LOVE the look of the C30 and we almost bought an S40 but it was just a little bit too small so we got my wife her GLI.
> 
> On the bright side, the S30 is many times over easier to work with in regards to the audio.


I had my heart set on a GTI for almost a year. I read everything I could get my hands on about it. I talked to two independent mechanics who I trust very well and their experience has been that GTIs and Rabbits/Golfs have a disproportionate number of cars that need clutches and brakes (calipers and discs) replaced earlier than they should; both expensive repairs. That coupled with my previous experience led to my conclusion. They gave the big thumbs up when I asked about the Volvo. I still think I would have been happy wither way, but I am enjoying my new car so far.


----------



## trevordj

Progress: 

More sound deadening today. 

I removed the stock amplifier and applied the inside and outside of the passenger rear quarter with damplifier. I then lined the enclosure with overkill pro in all dimensions, replaced the stock amp, and stuffed more overkill pro over the bracket. 










Next, I buttoned up the luxury liner pro on the passenger cabin. I am finally done deadening the floor. 














































Next came the fun, 

I dropped the headliner.










You can see the stock sound dampener on the roof.










Next I laid down a single layer of damplifier (forgot to take a photo, just wanted the pain to be over), followed by a layer of luxury liner pro. 










After this, I replaced the entire interior of the car to check for issues with the newly added volume. I found two: The molding around the bottom of the door would not easily fit. I will need to remove some foam from the carpet to make it fit better. Same issue with the center console. The molding around the e-brake did not fit because the bottom of the console had to stretch around the extra mass. I think these will both be easily fixed.

That is it for now, this represents 9 hours of work bringing the project total to 29 hours. 

Next Saturday will be devoted to deadening the doors and (if I am able to get it in time) running power and speaker wire. 

Thanks for looking!


----------



## BLD MOVS

Beautiful car & excellent pictures. Keep 'em coming. I love builds like this!


----------



## hobie1dog

Nothing like buying a new car and gutting the interior first thing. Did you send these pics to your dealer?


----------



## trevordj

BLD MOVS said:


> Beautiful car & excellent pictures. Keep 'em coming. I love builds like this!


Thank you sir!


----------



## trevordj

hobie1dog said:


> Nothing like buying a new car and gutting the interior first thing. Did you send these pics to your dealer?


That's for sure! It's actually kinda nice working on a car that no one has gotten their hands on yet.


----------



## KARPE

That C30 is an excellent looking car! I'm eagerly waiting to see if that quantity of drivers can be wrangled for a decent sound stage.


----------



## Kenny_Cox

Looking good! Looking real good.


----------



## trevordj

KARPE said:


> That C30 is an excellent looking car! I'm eagerly waiting to see if that quantity of drivers can be wrangled for a decent sound stage.


Thank you! The choice of the number of drivers has been largely influenced by the upcoming release of the MS-8. I realized after purchasing the System 242 GTs that rear fill should only be playing down to about 100hz or so. I may see if anyone is interesting trading the MW 162 GTs for some MW 152s but I will probably see how it sounds first.



Kenny_Cox said:


> Looking good! Looking real good.


Thanks man! Did you ever end up selling your MW 172s? 'Tis a shame you had to sell your gear. After hearing your impressions of the speaker I am excited to give them a listen for myself.


----------



## tinctorus

What wide angle lens are you using for these pictures???

The 10.5 fisheye?? only ask because it has a fisheye effect at the edges of the photo's


----------



## BLD MOVS

trevordj said:


> I shoot a Nikon D90 (LOVE this camera). I was excited to start the build log because, among other reasons, it gave me a reason to pull out the 10.5mm fisheye.





tinctorus said:


> What wide angle lens are you using for these pictures???
> 
> The 10.5 fisheye?? only ask because it has a fisheye effect at the edges of the photo's


ftlog!


----------



## Kenny_Cox

trevordj said:


> Thanks man! Did you ever end up selling your MW 172s? 'Tis a shame you had to sell your gear. After hearing your impressions of the speaker I am excited to give them a listen for myself.


I did! They are a great speaker. When I am back to work I will buy them again.


----------



## trevordj

Well I hit my first snag today 

I was taking my driver's side door panel off to deaden the door and ended up breaking the door lock from its connection. To fix this I have to pull the door latch assembly. To do this I have to drill the rivets holding the window mechanism. 

Damn.

I tried to do it and found it to be over my head. I placed a call to the dealership and they will be fixing it next Saturday. Until then I will have my car garaged as the window is now permanently down as the mechanism is no longer attached. 

I found the culprit, a tiny $0.50 piece of plastic that broke. Very frustrating. 

I did get the driver door deadened and will get the passenger side done tomorrow, hopefully minus the breaking stuff part. I will post pictures later. I am too pissed to think about it.


----------



## BLD MOVS

trevordj said:


> Well I hit my first snag today
> 
> I was taking my driver's side door panel off to deaden the door and ended up breaking the door lock from its connection. To fix this I have to pull the door latch assembly. To do this I have to drill the rivets holding the window mechanism.
> 
> Damn.
> 
> I tried to do it and found it to be over my head. I placed a call to the dealership and they will be fixing it next Saturday. Until then I will have my car garaged as the window is now permanently down as the mechanism is no longer attached.
> 
> I found the culprit, a tiny $0.50 piece of plastic that broke. Very frustrating.
> 
> I did get the driver door deadened and will get the passenger side done tomorrow, hopefully minus the breaking stuff part. I will post pictures later. I am too pissed to think about it.


dammit! sorry to her that trevordj. i feel your pain.


----------



## trevordj

BLD MOVS said:


> dammit! sorry to her that trevordj. i feel your pain.


Thanks man. I should get it sorted pretty easily, just couldn't figure out how to do it myself and didn't want to break anything. I decided to take a break for the day (because its 38 degrees). On call next weekend but hopefully I'll get enough sleep and pick things back up on Sunday.


----------



## trevordj

The little progress I made this weekend:

The driver's door










That damn door lock hanging in the upper left corner was the cause of my difficulties. Funny how little things can be such a pain in the ass. 

The good news: The stock dynaudio speaker is 5.5" in diameter but there is easily 5" of depth from the stock door panel to the window. There are plenty of options for speakers with that much mounting depth available. 










Drilled the rivets out for the window rollup assembly and got the inner skin off. A couple of SPL tiles followed by damplifier










Overkill pro:










I also took some photos of the spare tire well. I will use the next 2 weeks that I will be unable to work on the car to finalize my amp layout design with photoshop. 





































This represents approximately 2 hours worth of work and 4 hours dickin' with the damn door lock. This brings the project total to 31 hours.


----------



## uber_noob

Very cool. Nice car and nice job so far. Are you working in your garage? Cause it was cold this weekend.


----------



## trevordj

uber_noob said:


> Very cool. Nice car and nice job so far. Are you working in your garage? Cause it was cold this weekend.


Thanks man! Ya, I am working just outside my garage in my apartment complex (all my neighbors think I am crazy). That is partly why I didn't get any work done today, 38 degrees was a little too brisk. Yesterday wasn't too bad, but nowhere near as nice as the 70 degree weather we had last weekend.


----------



## tinctorus

BLD MOVS said:


> ftlog!


Lol I honestly did not even see that he posted about being excited to use the 10.5 fisheye but being a Nikon guy myself and having alot of camera time I know a 10.5 when I see one :laugh:

Nikon is the ONLY way to go IMO


----------



## sydmonster

is that a shoe holding the tape measure? (yes I know, what a dumb question)


----------



## Jaloosk

It's a glove...


----------



## trevordj

Yep, glove. I am not yet flexible enough to hold my measuring tape with my shoes


----------



## chefhow

Sweet install so far. I am going to be starting my C70 Coupe in the next couple of weeks. Gotta love the Volvo's, I dread taking mine apart.


----------



## trevordj

^Thank you! When you get started definitely post up your project. It would be nice to see a few more Volvos on the forum. Other than the door hiccup I have to say the car has been a pleasure to work on. Very intuitive to take apart for the most part. 

Are you planning on doing sound deadening? If your car is anything like mine you could probably get by with doing nothing more than the doors.


----------



## chefhow

trevordj said:


> ^Thank you! When you get started definitely post up your project. It would be nice to see a few more Volvos on the forum. Other than the door hiccup I have to say the car has been a pleasure to work on. Very intuitive to take apart for the most part.
> 
> Are you planning on doing sound deadening? If your car is anything like mine you could probably get by with doing nothing more than the doors.


Yeah I was going to do the doors, trunk, and rear deck. Car feels like a tank and sounds pretty solid when you tap at it. I'm not going to tackle the floor unless I find I have to after the initial install is complete. I will definitely put my build up, I think we may be the only Volvo's on the board.


----------



## JayinMI

trevordj said:


> Thanks man! Ya, I am working just outside my garage in my apartment complex (all my neighbors think I am crazy). That is partly why I didn't get any work done today, 38 degrees was a little too brisk. Yesterday wasn't too bad, but nowhere near as nice as the 70 degree weather we had last weekend.


Oh, to have 38 degree days again...

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Oh, to have 38 degree days again...
> 
> Jay


Ha ha! All a matter of perspective I suppose. Two winters ago I spent 6 weeks in Fairbanks Alaska in January and February. There was a week where the WARMEST it got was -50 degrees F. That was without windchill or any other sujective modifiers. Now THAT was damn cold. When I got back to Seattle and it was 40 degrees F I was walking around in a t-shirt and shorts for a week. 

On a brighter note, I got some work done on the tweeter mount in the sail panel today as it was b-e-a-utiful today. Also got to play with the Jasper circle jig for the first time (beats the hell out of trying to use a jigsaw). I will post pics when I get home from work tomorrow morning.


----------



## JayinMI

Yeah, my GF is in Orlando, FL til September. When it first got into the 50's down there, she saw a lady at the gas station wearing a hat, scarf, coat and boots. My GF was wearing a hoodie, jeans and flip-flops.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

A few updates: not much was done this weekend, maybe 2 hours worth of work. I took the car to the dealership for repair of the broken lock. I was met with some unfortunate news that I am still a little pissed about: the broken part was of course not covered under the warranty as I have been in the door (no surprise there). The ****ty part is the dealership says they have to replace the entire wiring harness within the door because it "was broken." It is not broken, I tested it before taking it there but I am at their mercy as they have to fix it to retain the warranty on the entire door mechanism. 

/rant

Anyway, I am now $475 less rich. 

In the future I will not be removing the inner door skin, I will pull the speaker and do what I can to deaden the passenger door but I will not pull the inner skin; it is not worth this happening again. 

I will dig back in for a little work next weekend but we will have friends in town so the amount of work will likely be minimal. I promise, this project is not going anywhere. I will see it through until the end. 

First the plan for the rear hatch (I apologize for the poor photoshop job). This is drawn to scale:










Installation of the tweeter in the sail panel was started. First the area was marked with a wax pencil:










Then it was cut out with a hole saw:










The inside of the sail panel was trimmed to accommodate the mounting ring, the tweeter was mocked up in the door:



















A ring spacer was made:










The sail panel was trimmed a bit more to accomodate the mounting ring:










Two part epoxy was used to adhere the ring to the sail panel:



















Some of the gaps were filled with a second round of epoxy and the final mock-up was done.


----------



## trevordj

It fits. One of the goals is to be unobtrusive so I recessed this thing as much as physically possible. 



















With these two hours, the project total is now 33 hours. Not much for an update, but its all I have for now.

The plan is to scuff up the plastic and use duraglass to build up the panel and mold it into the new tweeter mount. This is all new territory for me so if you have any tips or tricks please pass them on.


----------



## sydmonster

nice, HAT L1SE!!!


----------



## trevordj

sydmonster said:


> nice, HAT L1SE!!!


I share your enthusiasm!


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome Trevor, and amazing photos of course!


----------



## trevordj

Ianaconi said:


> Awesome Trevor, and amazing photos of course!


Thank you my friend! If my build ends up half as nice as yours I will consider this a success.


----------



## trevordj

Update: 

With friends in town I didn't get a ton done, but progress no less. I FINALLY picked up the car from the dealership yesterday. They ended up replacing some of the parts under warranty so it wasn't as expensive as initially quoted. In any case it is behind me now. 

I pulled the passenger door panel and drilled out the rivets for both the driver and passenger stock speakers. New vs. old below:




























I pulled the sail panels. Modified vs. stock so far:



















Same story different chapter with the passenger sail panel. A ring baffle was made from birch: 



















The sail panel was cut with a hole saw:



















The ring was epoxied to the sail panel:










That is it for now. The epoxy takes about 18 hours to polymerize so I will let them sit overnight then I will start filling them in with duraglass. I went to a restaurant supply store and picked up a huge sheet of HDPE (cutting board) for $10. I will be using this to make new baffles for the front speakers. I would like to get to this tomorrow as well as sound deadening the passenger door. That will FINALLY mark the end of sound deadening. 

This represents 4 hours of work taking the project total to 37 hours. 

Thanks for looking!


----------



## Brian_smith06

Looking very good. You are making me consider one of these for my next car. I feel it is time to step up from the cavi lol


----------



## bikerider

Volvo has come a long way since I owned an 850 (had a '95 and a '97), this thread makes me miss that car and my wife's '01 S60.

Nice work Trevor! Glad part of your goof-up was covered under warranty...


----------



## trevordj

Some more progress today: 

First an off topic photo of my bulldog who decided to climb on the back of the couch with the cat today. I have never seen him do this nor did I realize he was physically capable of such a feat; I think it had something to do with the bacon I was eating. 










The makeshift workbench on the porch of my apartment:










I scuffed up the sail panels to promote adhesion: 



















I drilled some holes in the panel as well to further promote adhesion

Round one of duraglas, mixed the first batch a little to hot, only got about 5 min working time. I used my digital kitchen scale to be sure to mix it at 2% by weight. About 1.75% by weight seemed to give me the proper working time of 10-12 minutes.


----------



## trevordj

Round 2 of Duraglas. After some shaping and sanding I got the shape I was looking for: 














































Round 3 of duraglas and some more sanding: 





































That is it for today. I severely underestimated the amount of time this was going to take. This is my first time working with duraglas and overall I am very impressed so far. Tomorrow after I get home from work I will go over the panel with some rage gold, sand some more, prime and paint. I didn't get to the doors today, but will in good time. 

This represents 8 hours of work taking the project total to 45 hours. 

Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

Brian_smith06 said:


> Looking very good. You are making me consider one of these for my next car. I feel it is time to step up from the cavi lol





bikerider said:


> Volvo has come a long way since I owned an 850 (had a '95 and a '97), this thread makes me miss that car and my wife's '01 S60.
> 
> Nice work Trevor! Glad part of your goof-up was covered under warranty...


Thanks fellas! I was surprised how far Volvos have come too. I always just imagined them as being kinda boring, like the old Volvo 240s. I absolutely love this car and can't wait to have a proper stereo to make it that much better.


----------



## IBcivic

very nice work on the sail-panels....it's those tweeters, i don't like!


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> very nice work on the sail-panels....it's those tweeters, i don't like!


Hahaha! Now I know you are lying! 

Thank you for the compliment!


----------



## cleung

lookin' good


----------



## IBcivic

trevordj said:


> Hahaha! Now I know you are lying!
> 
> Thank you for the compliment!


hmm, i wonder what gave me away...:laugh:


----------



## quality_sound

Have you considered painting the pods flat black and wrapping them in black grill cloth?


----------



## trevordj

quality_sound said:


> Have you considered painting the pods flat black and wrapping them in black grill cloth?


I thought about wrapping the panels in grill cloth and going the fibreglass route to mold the tweeters in but it doesn't sound like that is what you are referring to. 

I will be painting them flat black but I hadn't thought about upholstering them with grill cloth after painting, do you have any experience doing this or any links to others who have done it? That sounds like a cool idea but I have never seen it before.


----------



## IBcivic

quality_sound said:


> Have you considered painting the pods flat black and wrapping them in black grill cloth?


X2 that is how i did my pillars, before i had to re-work them for the L1-SE

the cloth IMO gives it a ''richer'' look ,compared to the hard painted plastic.


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> X2 that is how i did my pillars, before i had to re-work them for the L1-SE
> 
> the cloth IMO gives it a ''richer'' look ,compared to the hard painted plastic.




Do you happen to have a link to the build or any pics? I like the idea a lot. I think it would match my a-pillars and headliner nicely too. They are wrapped in a porous appearing tan cloth that reminds me of grill cloth.


----------



## IBcivic

i have a couple of pics of my pillars before being re-worked, just to give you an idea...keep in mind, these pics are not of trevor jorgensen caliber.:blush:


----------



## quality_sound

trevordj said:


> I thought about wrapping the panels in grill cloth and going the fibreglass route to mold the tweeters in but it doesn't sound like that is what you are referring to.
> 
> I will be painting them flat black but I hadn't thought about upholstering them with grill cloth after painting, do you have any experience doing this or any links to others who have done it? That sounds like a cool idea but I have never seen it before.





amitaF said:


> X2 that is how i did my pillars, before i had to re-work them for the L1-SE
> 
> the cloth IMO gives it a ''richer'' look ,compared to the hard painted plastic.





^^^Exactly. I think it's a more luxurious, for lack of a better word, look. Don't get me wrong, your pods look great, and are even more impressive knowing you did it all by shaping by hand, just tossing out ideas. If my OEM pods weren't connected to the seal that goes all the way around the upper door frame I'd do that in my car.


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> i have a couple of pics of my pillars before being re-worked, just to give you an idea...keep in mind, these pics are not of trevor jorgensen caliber.:blush:





quality_sound said:


> ^^^Exactly. I think it's a more luxurious, for lack of a better word, look. Don't get me wrong, your pods look great, and are even more impressive knowing you did it all by shaping by hand, just tossing out ideas. If my OEM pods weren't connected to the seal that goes all the way around the upper door frame I'd do that in my car.


Thanks fellas, I like that look a lot. I will give it a go. I need to go to Hobby Lobby to pick up some clay today anyway so I will grab some grill cloth as well. I appreciate your recommendation!


----------



## trevordj

More progress today. Per usual I completely underestimated the time this would require. In any case, here is what I accomplished: 

A coat of Rage Gold on the panels followed by more sanding:




























I sprayed a couple coats of flexible high build primer followed by more sanding and finally ending with two more solid coats of primer. I will let them dry tonight, paint tomorrow and wrap in grill cloth Thursday or Friday. I am slow.

A teaser shot of the drying panels on my ultra high tech painting rig:










It doesn't look like it, but this represents 5 hours of work, its a good thing I am more patient than I was in my youth. Wait, that's probably why all of my installations in my younger days looked like **** . This brings the project total to 50 hours.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

More progress:

Some more sanding and another coat of primer


----------



## trevordj

Finally where I want them so they were painted with SEM flexible elastomeric paint (I am really impressed with this paint). 














































I did a test wrap with some grill cloth to see how it looked. To be honest it does not match the aesthetics of the rest of the door panel as well. I think I will leave these puppies the way they are and call them done!

This represents a mere 2 hours of work bringing the project total to 52 hours. I am hoping to get some serious work done this weekend. 

Thank you for looking!


----------



## IBcivic

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## CA4944

Sorry if I missed it, but what was the glue you originally used to attach the rings to the plastic?


----------



## trevordj

CA4944 said:


> Sorry if I missed it, but what was the glue you originally used to attach the rings to the plastic?


No worries man, here is the stuff:










I picked up this stuff from US composites (Fasco 2 part epoxy) and it worked very well. Solid adhesion after it polymerized (and hard as a rock). The only downside is it takes a while to cure.


----------



## nirschl

Very nice execution on those sails!


----------



## quality_sound

Those came out niiiiiiiiiiice. 

Glad you at least tried the grill cloth though. Sometimes things work out better than expected and sometimes not. I can't wait to see them in the car.


----------



## lancewhitefield

Beautiful ride and looks like a great install, keep it up I'll be watching for updates.


----------



## trevordj

nirschl said:


> Very nice execution on those sails!





lancewhitefield said:


> Beautiful ride and looks like a great install, keep it up I'll be watching for updates.


Thanks fellas! 



quality_sound said:


> Those came out niiiiiiiiiiice.
> 
> Glad you at least tried the grill cloth though. Sometimes things work out better than expected and sometimes not. I can't wait to see them in the car.


Thank you very much, means a lot coming from you as your GTI build was one that I poured over for techniques/tips/tricks when I joined this forum. Thanks for the tip with the grill cloth too. I am glad I tried it. It was 14 dollars well spent that I can still use when I mold the mids into the a-pillars.


----------



## bikerider

Those sails look gorgeous. You've got some skills other than photography!


----------



## trevordj

bikerider said:


> Those sails look gorgeous. You've got some skills other than photography!


Thanks man!


----------



## douggiestyle

absolutely LOVE the way those sail panels came out. I'll be PMing you real soon


----------



## trevordj

douggiestyle said:


> absolutely LOVE the way those sail panels came out. I'll be PMing you real soon


I 'preciate it. Thank you!


----------



## trevordj

Progress this weekend was SLOOOWWWW. I figure as long as I continue moving in the proper direction I am happy though.

I made some rings out of 1/2" HDPE I picked up at the local restaurant supply store. 



















I drilled holes to mount the midbass and to mount the baffle to the door. I secured hurricane nuts into the baffle and then epoxied the layers together: 



















I reinforced the baffle with some duraglas. It is curing right now. This week I will wrap it inside and out with sound deadener and then wrap with some CCF to seal the last 1/2" to the door panel. Per usual, I completely underestimated how long this would take. 

Moving on, I marked the door panels for the larger speakers:



















Then I trimmed them with the Dremmel, luckily the stock grills are plenty large enough to accommodate the 8" drivers, they just required removing some material behind them. 










I also marked the door panel



















I have not cut the doors yet. I want to get the baffles finalized before I make any permanent changes.


----------



## trevordj

I assembled the speaker wires for the tweeters in the sail panels. 



















Finally, I remounted the sails in their final position




























I have not refitted the door panels in the car yet as the midbasses are still not mounted. Hopefully this week I will get that done, run new wire to the doors, and get the door panels on as I am tired of driving around without door panels. 

Believe it or not this represents 18 hours of work between today and yesterday . I honestly don't know where the time went. In any case, this brings the project total to 70 hours. 

Thank you for looking!


----------



## IBcivic

pics not loading right


----------



## trevordj

Weird, they are showing up for me. I emptied my cache and reloaded the page and they are still there. I'm not sure whats going on.


----------



## IBcivic

it must be a holiday inn thing


----------



## rollininstyle2004

Sails turned out beautifully!


----------



## JayinMI

amitaF said:


> it must be a holiday inn thing


Must not be a Holiday Inn Express.


----------



## IBcivic

JayinMI said:


> Must not be a Holiday Inn Express.


how djoo guess?:laugh:


----------



## vwtoby

what epoxy did you use to bind the HDPE?


----------



## trevordj

vwtoby said:


> what epoxy did you use to bind the HDPE?


I used the same stuff I used to attach the tweeter baffle to the plastic sail panel. Fasco 110 2-part epoxy purchased from us composites:










Great stuff. Sands easily when still soft (after about 8 hours), cures hard as a rock after 24 hours or so, and bonded well to the HDPE (I sanded with 50 grit paper on the DA sander before using to promote adhesion). Downside is it takes a while to polymerize. If you need it to go a bit faster you could always use a bit more of the 2nd part, but I am patient.


----------



## BLD MOVS

Thick cutting board from Wal-Fart Target works ok too.


----------



## Ianaconi

Any news?


----------



## trevordj

^Yes sir!

Throughout the week I was able to finalize the baffles (so I thought) and trim the doors. I mocked up the speakers and they clear the windows by about 1" and clear the stock door panels. Unfortunately my baffle design didn't work so well and they delaminated. I will be making them a bit differently this time: I sanded and epoxied the HDPE together and will cut them as one unit then bolt them together. 

The first and best option would have been to make these out of 1 1/2" HDPE from the beginning, but I couldn't find anything thicker than 1/2" anywhere. Oh well, this will work. 

In any case, here are pics of the doors from my progress earlier in the week:

Driver's side




























Passenger's side




























I sound deadened the passenger's door. On my first cut of damplifier, I cut more than sound deadener.

It doesn't look too bad in this photo, but it was down to muscle. I was going to suture it up but I didn't have any lidocaine. I threw some steri strips on it and as good to go. 










My last 3 pieces of SPL tiles on the inside followed by a layer of damplifier and overkill pro on the inside. Also deadened the inner panel.


----------



## trevordj

Today was a full day of solid work (I actually forgot to eat and started to feel pretty ****ty). 

I pulled interior (again) and the glove box to scope a place to run power. 










Just below the stock grommet and wiring was a perfect place to drill the 1 1/8" hole needed for the 0 gauge grommet. 



















Grommet in










Power wire was tech flexed and run through the grommet










A fuse holder was mounted on the firewall










And hooked up










I ran out of heatshrink large enough for the 0 gauge, I will get some more and redo both of these terminations with longer pieces. 

The power wire was terminated and attached to the OEM terminal. 










Power was run throughout the passenger cabin. Adhesive cable tie mounts were used every 1/2 foot or so. 



















This represents 19 hours of work (8 hours throughout the week and 11 hours today) taking the project total to 89 hours. I also started running speaker wire to the doors today but don't have any photos yet. This is proving to be difficult as I am having to drill new holes. There is not a chance in hell of getting through the molex connector on the door. Oh well, it builds character.


----------



## JayinMI

On eBay...look for seller "acesany" his store is Cesany Plastics. He sells King Starboard (essentially similar to HDPE) in thicknesses up to 1.5"...that's what I used. Very quick shipping.

Jay


----------



## m3gunner

+ 1 on the note above. I bought a 12 x 24 1.5 inch thick black sheet and it came very quickly in excellent condition. Cuts fine with my battery powered circular saw...


----------



## trevordj

^Thanks fellas I may give that a shot. It will be better and stronger than bolted together 1/2" any day.


----------



## chefhow

I spent an hour under the hood of my C70 last night trying to find a place to run my 0ga power and I am going to run a piece of conduit under the car to the trunk instead. It seemed like a major PITA to go thru the cabin of the car.


----------



## JayinMI

Here's how I did mine (real easy to work with, but I used a router):

King Starboard Speaker Rings

Not to hijack, just wanted to give an idea of how it works out.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

chefhow said:


> I spent an hour under the hood of my C70 last night trying to find a place to run my 0ga power and I am going to run a piece of conduit under the car to the trunk instead. It seemed like a major PITA to go thru the cabin of the car.


Truer words couldn't have been spoken. I couldn't believe it took me a full day to run power into the car. I would expect the C70 to be similar to the C30 in terms of where you can run the power through the firewall, but going the conduit route might be a better option. Good luck!


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Here's how I did mine (real easy to work with, but I used a router):
> 
> King Starboard Speaker Rings
> 
> Not to hijack, just wanted to give an idea of how it works out.
> 
> Jay


Thanks you, that link was really helpful. I already purchased and epoxied the new sheets of HDPE. I am going to try my new method and see if it works out. If it doesn't, then I will bite the bullet and order some of the King starboard. That stuff is kind of expensive, $60 for 12x24 sheet.


----------



## JayinMI

trevordj said:


> Thanks you, that link was really helpful. I already purchased and epoxied the new sheets of HDPE. I am going to try my new method and see if it works out. If it doesn't, then I will bite the bullet and order some of the King starboard. That stuff is kind of expensive, $60 for 12x24 sheet.


Yeah, but it was enough to make like 4 rings with some leftover to make spacers or something. I'm sure you could probably sell the leftovers to someone for a few bucks and recoup some of your investment.

Think of it this way...how much have you spent on cutting boards, epoxy, trips to the store and your time? Probably not that far off.

If the epoxy works, then cool. I've also seen people bolt them together with Ensolite in between (Ge0, IIRC) to try to decouple them from each other.

Build's coming along great. This car was on my radar for a little bit before I bought my Genesis...I've always wanted to something cool in one of these or the V40/S40.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Yeah, but it was enough to make like 4 rings with some leftover to make spacers or something. I'm sure you could probably sell the leftovers to someone for a few bucks and recoup some of your investment.
> 
> Think of it this way...how much have you spent on cutting boards, epoxy, trips to the store and your time? Probably not that far off.
> 
> If the epoxy works, then cool. I've also seen people bolt them together with Ensolite in between (Ge0, IIRC) to try to decouple them from each other.
> 
> Build's coming along great. This car was on my radar for a little bit before I bought my Genesis...I've always wanted to something cool in one of these or the V40/S40.
> 
> Jay


You are absolutely right. If the boards I have here do not work out then I will stop messing around and just get a sheet of that stuff. Thanks for your suggestions man, I really appreciate it!


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## bertholomey

Echoing what everyone else has said - very impressive with all of the various aspects of the build - very high quality!

It is a bit shocking to see a brand new car (especially a Volvo) completely gutted, but the results should be fantastic. I love how you did the sails - top notch - looks better than stock in my opinion. 

What I am waiting for - the BMs under the seats. Zach is planning on doing that under the seats of his xB - should be fantastic. I would really like to hear you impressions after that is completed. Again, great work all the way around!


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## trevordj

^Thanks man, I really appreciate it. My only wish is that I were able to maintain the same build quality while moving at a faster pace. You may find this next update a bit frustrating (I do). I did some testing with the sub today under the front seat and it does fit. Unfortunately there is a horizontal bar under the front seat that is elevated when the seat is forward (and I did all of my measuring). When I moved the seat back with the sub in place, the bar moves diagonally downward coming to rest over the sub. The sub still fits, but this only leaves about 1/2" clearance and this is without any enclosure. Without raising the seat (which I don't want to do), it isn't going to happen. Instead, my game plan will be to go with the subs in the hatch area and 2 of the 4 amps under the front seats. I REALLY wanted the subs under the seats, but that is how it goes. 

Progress for today:

The kicks and doors were drilled for the new speaker wire. 




























The same was done on the driver's side. 

The holes were cleaned up, the metal was sanded and the area was taped off



















I brushed on several coats of undercoating. The good news is that the speaker wire holes are soundproofed :laugh:










Speaker wire was run to the doors. I have some silicone caulk and rubber grommets that I will hit the wire and holes with to seal them and prevent damage to the speaker wire. 










The weather went to hell in a hand basket pretty quickly so I had to call it quits early. This represents 5 hours of work taking the project total to 94 hours. 

Thanks for looking!


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## bertholomey

I'm sure that was disappointing to discover. Your 'audible' will work just fine. I can't wait to see how it turns out.


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## bikerider

Hope the edges of those holes don't cut the speaker wire insulation - could not see any grommets installed in the pictures.

I remember on my 850 there was a section of corrugated tubing that passed through the firewall with 3 or 4 "nipples" on each end. If you removed the nipple cap you could slide at least a 4 ga wire right through the tube into the cabin. They had it on the S70 too, wonder if it's there on chefhow's C70. Sounds like it's not there on your C30. Running power wire in that car was like a 30 minute job tops.


----------



## trevordj

bikerider said:


> Hope the edges of those holes don't cut the speaker wire insulation - could not see any grommets installed in the pictures.
> 
> I remember on my 850 there was a section of corrugated tubing that passed through the firewall with 3 or 4 "nipples" on each end. If you removed the nipple cap you could slide at least a 4 ga wire right through the tube into the cabin. They had it on the S70 too, wonder if it's there on chefhow's C70. Sounds like it's not there on your C30. Running power wire in that car was like a 30 minute job tops.


Good catch, I have grommets as well that I purchased a couple days ago. I will be throwing those in when I seal everything up with silicone. Thanks for keeping me on my toes though, that's why I like posting this here.


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## trevordj

Well ****! I need the help of anyone that may know better than I: 

Today I drove my car to work and home with just the front seat in (center console, passenger seat, glove box and carpet out). I had no problems. After getting home from work I wanted to install some grommets in the passenger door to button up the wiring I got them in and then went to start my car to move it to the parking garage and what do you know the damn thing wont start. Battery has power, keyless entry still works. I put the center console back in, unhooked the battery, turned the ignition to position 2, hooked up the batter: nothing. I removed both positive and negative leads from the batter and touched them together then hooked up the battery: nothing. 

Any thoughts or ideas please pass them my way. I am very pissed and disappointed. I called the dealer and they just told me to call the 1-800 volvo number and have it towed in. I know after my last experience they are going to take one look at the car and proclaim that I messed with the electronics so the entire electrical system will need replaced.


----------



## CA4944

When my Audi did this, Audi replaced the battery, presumably because it was winter at the time. I protested because I didn't think that was it. It wasn't: it turned out to be the ignition switch, and I could only prove it to them by demonstrating how you would have to twist the switch while putting some downward pressure on the end of the key to get it to turn over. Otherwise, the starter wouldn't engage. The car was a year old at the time.

Probably not it in your case, but it couldn't hurt to try...

On a more likely tact: have you checked all your fuses?


----------



## trevordj

CA4944 said:


> When my Audi did this, Audi replaced the battery, presumably because it was winter at the time. I protested because I didn't think that was it. It wasn't: it turned out to be the ignition switch, and I could only prove it to them by demonstrating how you would have to twist the switch while putting some downward pressure on the end of the key to get it to turn over. Otherwise, the starter wouldn't engage. The car was a year old at the time.
> 
> Probably not it in your case, but it couldn't hurt to try...
> 
> On a more likely tact: have you checked all your fuses?


Oh ya, I forgot to mention, the battery is reading 12.58 volts and the spare key didn't change anything (I have a keyless ignition system). The power seats, etc work but the stereo will not power on nor will the lights or gauges in the instrument panel (the odometer and clock to power on though). The interior lights also work ok. I checked all the fuses and none are blown.


----------



## stockman2010

sounds like an issue with the ignition. it controls all the other instruments (ie, off, accessory, on, engine start), i would check to see if there is an override or read the manual to see where to start.


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## IBcivic

does it have factory anti-theft [ignition dis-able] the symptom seems to point towards that


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> does it have factory anti-theft [ignition dis-able] the symptom seems to point towards that


It does, and that is what I am thinking too. I am just baffled why it decided to do this at random. I have not made any changes or alterations to the electrical system and can see/think of nowhere where I would have shorted anything (further there are no blown fuses). I will have to have it towed to the dealership (for free luckily, part of my warranty) after I put the interior back together tomorrow so they don't have a melt down when they see the car.


----------



## trevordj

Success! By pure dumb luck I had my key on when I was putting the carpet it. When the carpet put pressure on the wiring harness in the kick panel everything powered up and my car started. I took everything out and had a careful look at the wiring. Everything looked good. I put pressure on all of the connections and localized it to one. I pulled the connection and low and behold the power wire had unseated from the connector because it was wrapped a little to tightly from the factory. I released the pressure by undoing some tape, put some silicone on the connector and reseated it in the molex. I just hooked everything up and by god it works. Just a loose power connection. 

Now I have an airbag error code so I will probably have to run the the dealership in the near future to have this cleared. Other than that, no big deal.


----------



## JayinMI

trevordj said:


> Success! By pure dumb luck I had my key on when I was putting the carpet it. When the carpet put pressure on the wiring harness in the kick panel everything powered up and my car started. I took everything out and had a careful look at the wiring. Everything looked good. I put pressure on all of the connections and localized it to one. I pulled the connection and low and behold the power wire had unseated from the connector because it was wrapped a little to tightly from the factory. I released the pressure by undoing some tape, put some silicone on the connector and reseated it in the molex. I just hooked everything up and by god it works. Just a loose power connection.
> 
> Now I have an airbag error code so I will probably have to run the the dealership in the near future to have this cleared. Other than that, no big deal.


Wait until you're done. On the S60, I know that just removing the radio from the dash (not disconnecting it or anything) will trip an airbag code. No point paying to have it cleared more than once.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

Progress for today: 

Grommets and silicone applied to passenger speaker wire



















Speaker wire terminated and zip tied in place










Driver side door speaker wire holes were trimmed a bit larger and undercoating applied










I realized I forgot to apply undercoating to the firewall grommet, so that was done and the firewall was put back together










I turned some attention to the center channel while things were drying. The stock center channel was removed. This speaker is pretty nice. 



















The stock mounts were trimmed to accommodate the new center. I will also need to trim the air vents to fit the depth of the L3. I will reseal them with fiberglass. I will also glass a new baffle and vent it into the dash. The current baffle is open all around and doesn't effectively isolate the front and rear waves. 










Here is the angle I am hoping to get out of the speakers instead of firing straight up at the windshield.










That is it for today. Not too much work done, but if you haven't figured it out yet, I am slow. After fixing the electrical issue in the car, this represents 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 98 hours. 

Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Wait until you're done. On the S60, I know that just removing the radio from the dash (not disconnecting it or anything) will trip an airbag code. No point paying to have it cleared more than once.
> 
> Jay


Yep, thats what I was thinking too. I figure it had something to do with the intermittent power the wiring harness was getting and does not actually represent any damage to the airbag. Glad to know I am not the only one who has experienced this. 

Thanks Jay


----------



## Se7en

Man,

I've been watching this thread and completely missed the fact that you're just down the street!

Beautiful install man! We need to do a "greater" Central Texas GTG!


----------



## trevordj

Se7en said:


> Man,
> 
> I've been watching this thread and completely missed the fact that you're just down the street!
> 
> Beautiful install man! We need to do a "greater" Central Texas GTG!


Thank you my friend! Yours isn't looking too bad either I have to say. I completely agree that we need to make a GTG happen. It would be a great excuse to make a day trip up to Austin. At the pace I am moving this won't be done for another 2 months though. I just tell people I am dragging my feet waiting for the MS-8 .


----------



## 62Lincoln

Trevor, do you have a confirmed source for the MS-8? And a confirmed timeline?


----------



## chefhow

Nice use of the enormous center channel. I was actually going to mount a GPS there but I like your idea as well.


----------



## Just_Crazy

Looks like it's going pretty well. Love to listen to it when your are finished since I'm in your neck of the woods.


----------



## trevordj

62Lincoln said:


> Trevor, do you have a confirmed source for the MS-8? And a confirmed timeline?


No and no unfortunately. In the epic MS-8 thread, Andy Wehmeyer from JBL stated to expect something to happen at spring break nationals. I am hoping to hear good news. Based on his comments, the release seems to be ever closer although the thread is 3 years old so...



chefhow said:


> Nice use of the enormous center channel. I was actually going to mount a GPS there but I like your idea as well.


Thanks man. I actually do not have the cavernous center channel location that other Volvos have as I have an OEM GPS in place. There is BARELY enough room to fit that L3. If I had it do do over again I think I would not have gotten the OEM GPS. Its software is a bit quirky and it erodes into the space available for the center.



Just_Crazy said:


> Looks like it's going pretty well. Love to listen to it when your are finished since I'm in your neck of the woods.


Absolutely, I would be happy to oblige. Make sure and drop me a PM or another message when you see it is wrapping up as I will probably forget between now and 2 months from now when it is finished.


----------



## 62Lincoln

trevordj said:


> No and no unfortunately. In the epic MS-8 thread, Andy Wehmeyer from JBL stated to expect something to happen at spring break nationals. I am hoping to hear good news. Based on his comments, the release seems to be ever closer although the thread is 3 years old so...


Thanks - not trying to bust your chops, was hoping you had inside info!


----------



## trevordj

62Lincoln said:


> Thanks - not trying to bust your chops, was hoping you had inside info!


No worries at all my friend. Believe me, I wish I had some inside info! My car will be MS-8 ready until it is released and I will be happy running processorless until then. Cheers!

Edit: Welcome to the forum!


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> On eBay...look for seller "acesany" his store is Cesany Plastics. He sells King Starboard (essentially similar to HDPE) in thicknesses up to 1.5"...that's what I used. Very quick shipping.
> 
> Jay


Thanks for this advice. I tried to use the bolted together HDPE today and it was flexing when I got it in. In any case, I am done fooling with it and just ordered some King Starboard to just be done with it. Thanks for your write up too Jay, I think that will be helpful.


----------



## Ianaconi

No more photos?


----------



## trevordj

Ianaconi said:


> No more photos?


None for now unfortunately. I will be very busy working in the ICU for the next month and won't have as much time as I did last month. I am still getting some work done here and there as I can. I did get the speaker wire run into the driver side door and that is about it. Today was my only day off this week and it was raining like hell, so much for my plans to get a full day of work in. 

I am patient and the project isn't going anywhere. I am getting very antsy to get this done however.


----------



## JayinMI

trevordj said:


> Thanks for this advice. I tried to use the bolted together HDPE today and it was flexing when I got it in. In any case, I am done fooling with it and just ordered some King Starboard to just be done with it. Thanks for your write up too Jay, I think that will be helpful.


Glad I could help. I may order some more in 1/2" thickness for my rack for my BitOne and my Amp Rack. Expensive? Yes. Unnecessary? Probably. Will I ever worry about it? Nope.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Glad I could help. I may order some more in 1/2" thickness for my rack for my BitOne and my Amp Rack. Expensive? Yes. Unnecessary? Probably. Will I ever worry about it? Nope.
> 
> Jay


You may be able to save $2-3 if you do a best offer. I tried for $55 and $56 for the 1 1/2" stuff and those were automatically rejected. When I did $58 it was accepted... so I saved $2 off the regular price. Not really much, but $2 is $2.


----------



## trevordj

Today I got off work a bit early and it was 78 degrees and beautiful. I seized the opportunity to get some work done. 

My plan for the center channel requires three steps: 1. trim and reseal the air vent to accomodate the L3 midrange, 2. Seal off the perimeter under the baffle allowing the speaker only to vent down into the dash, and 3. Create a new baffle with wood mounting rings to seal against the perimeter piece. 

First I cut out part of the air vent to make room for the larger magnet of the L3. Then I hot glued a piece of grill cloth loosely to fit over the hole then soaked with polyester resin. The final result was an "indented" air vent. This should not affect the performance of the vent. None of this was pictured as the space is very tight. 

I taped off the area to start building the baffle. 



















I laid down a couple layers of fiberglass 



















Here is what I ended up with










I don't think I will be able to get as extreme an angle out of my center channel as I hoped, however I will angle it forward as much as possible to minimize reflections off the windshield. After all car audio is all about trade offs right?

That is it for today. Not a ton of progress, but progress nonetheless. This represents 6 hours of work along with the 4 hours I spent last week running speaker wire to the driver's side door (not pictured, same process as passenger's side). This takes the project total to 108 hours. 

Tomorrow (or in the near future) I will trim this piece down, cut some rings for the tweet and midrange, and make the baffle out of fiberglass. 

Thanks for looking!


----------



## AdamTaylor

awesome install


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## trevordj

Ok, work has been busy and I haven't gotten as much done as I would like. Truth be told, I would like to not have my car in pieces for so long (all the other residents at work think I am a nutter). Oh well, moving forward: 

I unfortunately came to the conclusion that my previous work on the center channel was not enough (I couldn't get the damn speakers to fit). So I went back to the drawing board. 

I trimmed the air vents and stock plastic mounts more. I will need every mm I can get. 



















I cut some fabric and hot glued it to the perimeter of the air vents with the fabric purposefully sagging. I then applied fiberglass resin. This resealed the air vent with a cut out to fit the speaker. I don't have any photos of the final product yet. 

I made a couple wood rings and settled on the best compromise of position I could. The final position is a little more pointed up to the windshield than this. I wand to minimize the near field reflection off the dash and (hopefully) build a wave guide in front of those speakers to minimize reflections further. 




























This is as far as I have gotten on the center channel for now. This thing is really racking my ability to strike the best compromise between a solid installation without modifying the stock center speaker grill.


----------



## trevordj

I finally received the Marine Starboard thanks to the recommendation by jayinmi, Thank you very much for the recommendation! What a difference it made working with one solid piece rather than dickin' around with bonding the HDPE. Oh ya, I don't recommend using the epoxy I mentioned to bond HDPE, it delaminated both times I tried it. 














































The rings were cut with a router. 










After my failed attempts with the previous baffles, I didn't want to risk ruining another set of rings. This gave me a fantastic excuse to pick up a new drill press from industrial supply. I will say this, along with the proper plastic, made all the difference in the world. 

I drilled the baffles and even cut out some recessed holes so the hurricane nuts can sit flush.


----------



## trevordj

Drumroll please.......

The MW-172s were mounted to the doors



















Tomorrow I will apply some clay, sound deadener, and foam tape to seal and deaden the baffles. 

I can now officially say I have 8" whooooooffers in the doors. Oh, and I had to hold my breath when I rolled down the windows the first time. I measured a million times, but it was still one of those moments of truth. 

This represents 15 hours of work bringing the project total to 123 hours. Thank you for looking!


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## IBcivic

sexy!  very nice work,man!


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## trevordj

amitaF said:


> sexy!  very nice work,man!


Thanks man! Not quite as solid as welding in a metal baffle , but they are solid nonetheless.


----------



## JayinMI

Man, Cesany Plastics should pay me a commission 
I really like it. It's relatively easy to work with and easier to clean up than MDF dust.

Glad I could help.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

AdamTaylor said:


> awesome install


Thanks man! I really appreciate it. If the final product is half as nice your 350Z I will consider this a success. 

Cheers!


----------



## trevordj

Got a little more work done today... as usual, didn't get as much done as I wanted to (seems to be a pattern). 

Moving along with the center channel. The space available for these speakers is minimal (because of this I have to carry out my plan for the baffle WITH the speakers in place... that is a bit nerve racking). My plan for the baffle will happen in 4 steps: 1) Place the speakers and nav screen in place and use hot melt to attach fabric around the perimeter; 2) Use polyester resin to the front of the baffle only. 3) Remove the nav unit and resin the back of the baffle then replace the nav unit so the fabric will conform to the shape of the front of the nav screen. Confused yet? 4) Smooth and shape the baffle. 

My plan was successful through step 2 today. 

Aluminum foil and tape to the stock nav unit










Prepped the center channel location




























Taped the living hell out of the speakers










After hot melting the fabric to the speaker rings I glued it around the perimeter



















Layed down some plastic and resined the front of the baffle. 



















After tearing everything down and testing the fitment, so far so good. It doesn't look pretty, but I can take care of that later. 










Next I hope to carry out steps 3 and 4 of the plan. So far so good.


----------



## trevordj

Also got some work done on the passenger door (didn't have enough time to do the driver's door). 

I wired up the speaker (soldered to terminals)










I applied a foam tape to the center of the baffle and flanked it with rope caulk both between the baffle and door and between the speaker and baffle. I also wrapped the speaker wire with a bit of closed cell foam to prevent it from slapping around in the door and making noise.




























Speaker mounted permanently. 










I will throw a little damplifier on the door around the baffle and wrap the baffle with some foam and damplifier to seal it against the door panel. 

This represents 4 hours of work taking the project total to 127 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## chefhow

Trevor, are you using the factory sub/mid for the doors?


----------



## trevordj

chefhow said:


> Trevor, are you using the factory sub/mid for the doors?


Nope, the C30 is a little different than the C70 in that regard. The C30 has a stock 2 way in the doors with a 5.5" woofer and a tweeter. The woofer I put in is the Dyn MW-172. I believe on yours it came with a factory 3" mid and a 7" woofer in the door.

I will of course be putting the HAT mids in the pillars and the tweeter are already set in the sail panels.


----------



## 2167

What if you put a plastic bag (make sure the shopping bag has no holes) in the space with the nav unit there (like you just did), then add some weight or tape to keep it in place then fill with expanding foam then you would have an exact reverse mold of the opening, then you could make a positive mold with FG and then trimming it

You could also use aluminum foil and the plastic bag to be safe

Just a thought


----------



## quality_sound

That pic of the Dyn upside down on the ground makes Jesus cry.


----------



## AdamTaylor

how much did the sheet of Marine Starboard run you?


----------



## trevordj

quality_sound said:


> That pic of the Dyn upside down on the ground makes Jesus cry.


Bless me father for I have sinned. I kinda thought about that after the fact. Luckily the dyn made it through unscathed and we may all live to fight another day if not with the memory of such events weighing on our souls . 

I'll try to be more careful. :blush:



AdamTaylor said:


> how much did the sheet of Marine Starboard run you?


$58 shipped. It is listed at $60, but he accepted a best offer of $58 (denied $50, $55, and $56). It was a hell of a lot easier than what I was trying to do before so I say it was worth it.


----------



## Lanson

All of it looks top-notch.

One little question I have: What is the total distance from your battery terminal to the main fuse?


----------



## trevordj

fourthmeal said:


> All of it looks top-notch.
> 
> One little question I have: What is the total distance from your battery terminal to the main fuse?


Thanks man! I am having a good time following your progress as well. 

I thought someone might ask about that: It is a little long by about 6 inches(approximately 24 inches). I had a hard time finding a good mounting location for the fuse holder and that was the best compromise I could come up with. 

Where does the 18 inch rule come from by the way (besides the IASCA rulebook)? I realize that getting the fuse as close to the terminal as possible is the name of the game, looking at the cable run, there are no additional risks that exist at the point it is mounted vs. 6 inches closer so I made a judgement call.


----------



## Lanson

Yeah, I asked because the rest of the install looks like it is following IASCA spec. And that little detail can really cut you up.

Suggestion: Use fused-battery terminals. Problem solved. I use the Phoenix Gold integrated terminal. Awesome.



trevordj said:


> Thanks man! I am having a good time following your progress as well.
> 
> I thought someone might ask about that: It is a little long by about 6 inches(approximately 24 inches). I had a hard time finding a good mounting location for the fuse holder and that was the best compromise I could come up with.
> 
> Where does the 18 inch rule come from by the way (besides the IASCA rulebook)? I realize that getting the fuse as close to the terminal as possible is the name of the game, looking at the cable run, there are no additional risks that exist at the point it is mounted vs. 6 inches closer so I made a judgement call.


----------



## trevordj

fourthmeal said:


> Yeah, I asked because the rest of the install looks like it is following IASCA spec. And that little detail can really cut you up.
> 
> Suggestion: Use fused-battery terminals. Problem solved. I use the Phoenix Gold integrated terminal. Awesome.


I actually looked at those (in fact I have one that I have never used) and then I saw that my stock terminal could accommodate the aftermarket cable. The one problem I had with the fused terminals was did didn't see that they make fuses large enough for my application that fit in any of the current ones on the market. 

I am actually not building to compete (at least in install). I may choose to compete in sound only down the line, but no immediate plans. I am using techflex because I like the way it looks (I know, I know). I am using the IASCA rulebook specs as a guide, but bending the rules at my discretion. 

Thanks for the feedback. Good to know I have some good peoples watching my 6.


----------



## Lanson

trevordj said:


> I actually looked at those (in fact I have one that I have never used) and then I saw that my stock terminal could accommodate the aftermarket cable. The one problem I had with the fused terminals was did didn't see that they make fuses large enough for my application that fit in any of the current ones on the market.
> 
> I am actually not building to compete (at least in install). I may choose to compete in sound only down the line, but no immediate plans. I am using techflex because I like the way it looks (I know, I know). I am using the IASCA rulebook specs as a guide, but bending the rules at my discretion.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. Good to know I have some good peoples watching my 6.


Check this beast out:










I doubt you can run into an issue with this. It handles TWO fuses. 

That's why I bought two sets of the PG AKIT1. One for each of my cars. Its the best kit (with the best terminal) I've ever seen for the money.


----------



## chefhow

trevordj said:


> Nope, the C30 is a little different than the C70 in that regard. The C30 has a stock 2 way in the doors with a 5.5" woofer and a tweeter. The woofer I put in is the Dyn MW-172. I believe on yours it came with a factory 3" mid and a 7" woofer in the door.
> 
> I will of course be putting the HAT mids in the pillars and the tweeter are already set in the sail panels.


Actually the C70 Coupe has an MD140/2 and a 10" mid/sub in each door


----------



## sydmonster

This is really coming along now! Your attention to the basics will pay off.


----------



## trevordj

sydmonster said:


> This is really coming along now! Your attention to the basics will pay off.


Thank you! I am trying to take my time and do it correctly. I don't want to look back on the car after it is assembled and think "I wish I would have done ______."


----------



## trevordj

I am getting ready to order some wiring gear in anticipation of installing a couple fans controlled with a heat sink mounted temperature gauge. I have no experience using relays and hoped that one of you would chime in and tell me if this seems legitimate: 










I will be using two of these fans:










And this temperature fan controller:










I am not quite sure how the temperature controller is wired... in appears to be simply in series with the power control to the fans. 

I will wire one fan in reverse to promote airflow through the amp rack. 

This all looks right to me after checking out the diagrams on BCAE, but just wanted to make sure from some who have more experience than I.


----------



## trevordj

Update: 

I spent the majority of the day working on the center channel, but it looks exactly the same as the previous photos. The good news it that the baffle WILL work. This is a huge relief as the speakers barely fit. 

Other progress: 

I finalized the mounting of the midbass in the driver's door. They were treated identically to the passenger's side. 



















The driver's side door panel was (finally) replaced in the car!










The sail panels look nice in there. 










The passenger side door panel was also replaced. You can see I wrapped the baffle with closed cell foam and then a layer of damplifier (this was done on the driver's side as well but I didn't snap a photo). It fits VERY snugly to the door panel. Both panels were treated with some damplifier before being put in the car. 



















That is it for today. This represents 5 hours of work bringing the project total to 132 hours. Thanks for looking!

Edit: I forgot to mention the most exciting progress of the day; I placed an order for my MS-8.


----------



## Lanson

All of that looks great. But you can buy cheaper, better fans at places like newegg, or if there's a computer shop around you go that way. They have ones that light up too.


----------



## Echo42987

Doors look super great! Nice job


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## trevordj

fourthmeal said:


> All of that looks great. But you can buy cheaper, better fans at places like newegg, or if there's a computer shop around you go that way. They have ones that light up too.


Thanks, as long as the wiring is ok; that was my main concern. I will look in to some other fans, I think I will stick away from the ones that light up though. 



Echo42987 said:


> Doors look super great! Nice job


Thank you!


----------



## IBcivic

nice job on the doors, mang....
tweeter pods look oem [only better]


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## 62Lincoln

trevordj said:


> Edit: I forgot to mention the most exciting progress of the day; I placed an order for my MS-8.


Tell us more: from whom? when will it ship?


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> nice job on the doors, mang....
> tweeter pods look oem [only better]


Thanks dude!



62Lincoln said:


> Tell us more: from whom? when will it ship?


From Harman directly care of Andy Wehmeyer in the MS-8 thread: 



Andy Wehmeyer said:


> We're now taking preorders for MS-8 here:
> 
> Harman Audio
> 
> Choose the "create a back order" option to preorder. Back orders will be filled in the order in which we receive them and they'll begin to go out as soon as they arrive from the factory. Well...we will hold all of them for about 48 hours to do an incoming quality inspection--we do that with all products.
> 
> The website indicates availability in June. I think if you order now, you'll have it before June 1.
> 
> Also, you guys may not know where I live, but you do know how to get ahold of me. I'll provide personal tech support for all of you here at the forum, but I can't do that for everyone everywhere. If and when you order, please send me a PM here, I'll put you on my list.


----------



## douggiestyle

great job with the center console


----------



## Meanmachine

God job, Trevor.

Pls could you take some pics of the tweeters to see the orientation.
Better if you take them from the rear seat and with the doors closed.

Thks in advance,


----------



## trevordj

douggiestyle said:


> great job with the center console


Thank you! The center channel should be done today. I will post photos later tonight. 



Meanmachine said:


> God job, Trevor.
> 
> Pls could you take some pics of the tweeters to see the orientation.
> Better if you take them from the rear seat and with the doors closed.
> 
> Thks in advance,


No problem, I'll snap a couple later today.


----------



## AdamTaylor

trevordj said:


> Edit: I forgot to mention the most exciting progress of the day; I placed an order for my MS-8.


you too? internet high five, i placed mine a week and a half ago... i was number 6 in line


----------



## trevordj

AdamTaylor said:


> you too? internet high five, i placed mine a week and a half ago... i was number 6 in line


Sweet! When I placed my order the interweb told me the expected ship date is April 14th! I really hope that is true.


----------



## katodevin

trevordj said:


> I am getting ready to order some wiring gear in anticipation of installing a couple fans controlled with a heat sink mounted temperature gauge. I have no experience using relays and hoped that one of you would chime in and tell me if this seems legitimate:
> 
> I am not quite sure how the temperature controller is wired... in appears to be simply in series with the power control to the fans.
> 
> I will wire one fan in reverse to promote airflow through the amp rack.
> 
> This all looks right to me after checking out the diagrams on BCAE, but just wanted to make sure from some who have more experience than I.


The wiring looks good. Just make sure you don't forget the diode to prevent the backwave from hitting your HU.

Also, look into getting some computer fans instead of the stinger branded ones. You can save a bit of money, and get quieter, better performing fans.

YATE LOON 80mm Case Fan - D80SL-12 - Low Speed <-- I use these when I have to use a small fan, and they are very quiet at full 12 volt speed. No need to use a speed/temperature controller.

Another option if you are really tight on space is to hack up a hamster cage style fan for a computer expansion slot. These provide a VERY directed stream of air.
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=ODY= <-- i got a pair of these for a very low profile install. I took off the metal mounting bracket, and simply mounted it lying down. These also come with a 3-way adjustable switch for fan speed. I use it on full speed, as I can't hear it when the engine is on anyways.

I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to amp cooling, as cooling is so cheap and easy, and can potentially help a lot in the long run.

Let me know if you have any questions on my cooling adventures. Your install is badass BTW, thanks for documenting it.


----------



## trevordj

katodevin said:


> The wiring looks good. Just make sure you don't forget the diode to prevent the backwave from hitting your HU.
> 
> Also, look into getting some computer fans instead of the stinger branded ones. You can save a bit of money, and get quieter, better performing fans.
> 
> YATE LOON 80mm Case Fan - D80SL-12 - Low Speed <-- I use these when I have to use a small fan, and they are very quiet at full 12 volt speed. No need to use a speed/temperature controller.
> 
> Another option if you are really tight on space is to hack up a hamster cage style fan for a computer expansion slot. These provide a VERY directed stream of air.
> http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=ODY= <-- i got a pair of these for a very low profile install. I took off the metal mounting bracket, and simply mounted it lying down. These also come with a 3-way adjustable switch for fan speed. I use it on full speed, as I can't hear it when the engine is on anyways.
> 
> I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to amp cooling, as cooling is so cheap and easy, and can potentially help a lot in the long run.
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions on my cooling adventures. Your install is badass BTW, thanks for documenting it.


Thank you for this information and for your kind words! I did not know about the diode, so double thank you for that. Where in the circuit do I place it and what size do you recommend? I am assuming I would wire it in series with the remote signal prior to terminating at the relay, but want to be sure. What causes this backwave? I assume by backwave you are referring to reverse current traveling to the HU. I can see two possible places: either from the fan spinning in reverse and acting as a generator or from the coil in the relay releasing charge when power is removed from the switch. I just want to make sure I understand for nothing more than personal enrichment . 

I should have been more clear in the original post, but I already have the fans and temperature controller laying around from a prior installation that I didn't end up using them on. Based on yours and fourthmeal's advice it sounds like there are much less expensive and better performing ones on the market. I will definitely keep this in mind should the fans I already have ever need replacing. For now I think I will use what I have though as they seem to at least be moderately well performing although VERY over priced. 

Thanks again!


----------



## katodevin

trevordj said:


> What causes this backwave? I assume by backwave you are referring to reverse current traveling to the HU. I can see two possible places: either from the fan spinning in reverse and acting as a generator or from the coil in the relay releasing charge when power is removed from the switch. I just want to make sure I understand for nothing more than personal enrichment .


You are exactly right with your 2nd theory. When the relay switches off, it can spike current backwards along the trigger line back to your HU. The diode should be placed across the coil - posts 85 and 86.


----------



## trevordj

katodevin said:


> You are exactly right with your 2nd theory. When the relay switches off, it can spike current backwards along the trigger line back to your HU. The diode should be placed across the coil - posts 85 and 86.


Cool, got ya. What size diode would you recommend for a 40amp relay? I will poke around a bit more on BCAE to see if I can find a bit more on this. 

Thanks again!

Edit: Nevermind, I found some part numbers on BCAE. In fact the whole section on quenching doides was right there where I had been reading the whole time. I don't know how I missed it. :blush:


----------



## JayinMI

Are you just using the turn on from the radio to trigger the fans? Is it a (+) or a (-) trigger?

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Are you just using the turn on from the radio to trigger the fans? Is it a (+) or a (-) trigger?
> 
> Jay


Based on what I understand, I am technically using the factory remote signal to feed into the MS-8 and I am then using the MS-8 remote signal to trigger a relay which will then feed power directly from the car's battery to the fans. As you can tell I am in new territory here. I don't know if it is a + or - trigger. Is this an important point? What trigger are you reffering to? If you are refferring to what will be switched, the answer is +, but I am not sure if that is what you mean. I want to make sure and get this correct so I don't fry my MS-8 (or car for that matter).


----------



## Meanmachine

trevordj said:


> Thank you! The center channel should be done today. I will post photos later tonight.
> 
> No problem, I'll snap a couple later today.


No pics Trevor ???


----------



## trevordj

Meanmachine said:


> No pics Trevor ???


Sorry for the delay, I ended up having to work more than expected so I haven't gotten to it yet. Next time I get a chance I will snap a shot.


----------



## AdamTaylor

trevordj said:


> Sweet! When I placed my order the interweb told me the expected ship date is April 14th! I really hope that is true.


yep... me too, i cant wait


----------



## t3sn4f2

Have you check to make sure you aren't getting a whistle or a loud wind noise from the modified air vents?


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## trevordj

t3sn4f2 said:


> Have you check to make sure you aren't getting a whistle or a loud wind noise from the modified air vents?


Yep, I checked. No whistle. I had to trim them down quite a bit, but there is still plenty of air flow and no whistle or other annoyance even with the air cranked up full blasty blast.


----------



## trevordj

After a recent conversation with Andy Whemeyer, there has been a slight change to the plans. Nothing epic, just the addition of a midbass to the center channel. 










I will be getting some work done on the project tomorrow and will hopefully get a ton of work done in a week when I start my first week of vacation since June of last year. I am definitely getting excited to spend some quality time getting this banged out.


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## TPMS

wow .. double juice the center now :surprised:

Great work


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## trevordj

TPMS said:


> wow .. double juice the center now :surprised:
> 
> Great work


Thanks dude!

I have read review after review indicating the Dyns are pretty inefficient so the choice to change out the amp is really to make sure the Dyn midbass has enough power. I will be cranking the gain WAY down for the mid and tweet.


----------



## mattyjman

where are you going to place the center mid bass?


----------



## TPMS

trevordj said:


> Thanks dude!
> 
> I have read review after review indicating the Dyns are pretty inefficient so the choice to change out the amp is really to make sure the Dyn midbass has enough power. I will be cranking the gain WAY down for the mid and tweet.



I had the previous version 160GT and MD100 some years ago and while I was extremely happy of md100, can't say the same for midbass, but at that time I didn't pay too much attention and maybe it was just because they had been crossed too low by my installer.

In my current install for Ms-8 I am also thinking at bridging my Genesis ST100 for feeding the center. unfortunately cannot install anything bigger than a 4" + Tw (but it is a really good midlow: Morel Hybrid ovation)

btw, I didn't get clearly where are you putting that 160 center. do you have any pic ?


--
curious about those ARC amps (if they run AB+G they should be something similar to my Genesis DMX ) and also for HAT ... I will hardly see them here


----------



## trevordj

mattyjman said:


> where are you going to place the center mid bass?


Good question: The Volvo C30 has a floating center console. It will be going behind that console. The photos below hopefully illustrate this clearly. 

The arrows indicate the panel behind the center console where the midbass will go:









A close up of the proposed center midbass location:









Early in my build I had actually considered putting a midbass behind the center console but thought it would be overly complicated and unnecessary. After reading the post by Andy quoted below I think it will be a worthwhile addition to the plan without the need for much more fabrication. While my build is far from simple I am attempting to adhere to principals that will optimize my car for use with the MS-8 based on Andy's recommendations.



TPMS said:


> I had the previous version 160GT and MD100 some years ago and while I was extremely happy of md100, can't say the same for midbass, but at that time I didn't pay too much attention and maybe it was just because they had been crossed too low by my installer.
> 
> In my current install for Ms-8 I am also thinking at bridging my Genesis ST100 for feeding the center. unfortunately cannot install anything bigger than a 4" + Tw (but it is a really good midlow: Morel Hybrid ovation)
> 
> btw, I didn't get clearly where are you putting that 160 center. do you have any pic ?


Make sure and read this post from Andy Wehmeyer and the conversation between him and I that followed (which prompted my choosing to add a midbass to the center). Just don't make the same mistake I did by putting 8" midbasses in the doors for use with a 4" midrange as a center.


----------



## JayinMI

So, will you be changing the door midbasses now?


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> So, will you be changing the door midbasses now?


Nope, that is why I am adding the midbass to the center so I don't have to switch out the door midbasses.


----------



## TPMS

trevordj said:


> Make sure and read this post from Andy Whehmeyer and the conversation between him and I that followed (which prompted my choosing to add a midbass to the center). Just don't make the same mistake I did by putting 8" midbasses in the doors for use with a 4" midrange as a center.



I know .. but I have 6.5", not 8" and the Hybrid 4" is great at playing bass. 
I am still looking from all sides at my dash (Stock was 3" !) but fitting a 5" would have an obstructed outflow. not sure if it would be better


----------



## vrdublu

trevordj said:


> I finally received the Marine Starboard thanks to the recommendation by jayinmi, Thank you very much for the recommendation! What a difference it made working with one solid piece rather than dickin' around with bonding the HDPE. Oh ya, I don't recommend using the epoxy I mentioned to bond HDPE, it delaminated both times I tried it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The rings were cut with a router.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> After my failed attempts with the previous baffles, I didn't want to risk ruining another set of rings. This gave me a fantastic excuse to pick up a new drill press from industrial supply. I will say this, along with the proper plastic, made all the difference in the world.
> 
> I drilled the baffles and even cut out some recessed holes so the hurricane nuts can sit flush.


Just wondering where I can pick up the Marine Starboard and what does it go for $$$$$. Thx in advance and if I may say great job on the build so far.


----------



## JayinMI

You can get it from some boat places, but I order mine from a guy on eBay. Look for username "Acesany," his store is Cesany Plastics.

It is available in a few different colors, thicknesses and he has them all...he even does custom cutting if none of his precut sizes work for you.

Shipping is pretty fast and I've ordered from a him a couple of times and always had good luck and great service.

I believe this is where Trevor got his too.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

^yep, he is a good guy and will ship it out quickly. 

I paid $58 shipped for the plastic. Expensive? Yes. But it worked very well.


----------



## jvr826

trevordj said:


> The sail panels look nice in there.


I agree, they look great!

When the door is closed, are they aimed directly across at each other, parallel to the floor, or are they angled slightly?


----------



## Meanmachine

jvr826 said:


> I agree, they look great!
> 
> When the door is closed, are they aimed directly across at each other, parallel to the floor, or are they angled slightly?


We are awaiting for pics ,,,,,,,,,,


----------



## Lanson

Meanmachine said:


> We are awaiting for pics ,,,,,,,,,,



...With a fisheye lens!


----------



## trevordj

Meanmachine said:


> We are awaiting for pics ,,,,,,,,,,





fourthmeal said:


> ...With a fisheye lens!


Sorry for the delay dudes


----------



## trevordj

More progress will come in a flurry starting Saturday. I start my vacation and will have a solid week to work on this project.


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## Lanson

Ahh...life looks better through a fisheye lens.


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## trevordj

^I couldn't agree more.


----------



## Meanmachine

fourthmeal said:


> Ahh...life looks better through a fisheye lens.


Thks Trevor '¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
Great work.


----------



## trevordj

jvr826 said:


> I agree, they look great!
> 
> When the door is closed, are they aimed directly across at each other, parallel to the floor, or are they angled slightly?


Thanks! When the doors are closed they are aimed up slightly and on axis at the opposite side of the car. They are approximately 30 degrees off axis on the near side.


----------



## trevordj

The final iteration of the system plan: 










Since I was making changes to the center channel, in keeping with wanting to build a project with no regrets, I decided to purchase a set of smaller Dyn MW 152s to go in the rear and use one of my already purchased Dyn MW 162GTs for use with the center channel (leaving the other unused). 

Reasoning: The rear speakers connected to the MS-8 only should only play from 100hz up. The smaller drivers will play with more authority in the midrange bandwidth and will beam less than the 6.5" drivers near the crossover frequency (2200). 

I am now officially on vacation as of 2 hours ago (just finished a 24 hour shift). Now it is time for some work!


----------



## Meanmachine

trevordj said:


> The final iteration of the system plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I was making changes to the center channel, in keeping with wanting to build a project with no regrets, I decided to purchase a set of smaller Dyn MW 152s to go in the rear and use one of my already purchased Dyn MW 162GTs for use with the center channel (leaving the other unused).
> 
> Reasoning: The rear speakers connected to the MS-8 only should only play from 100hz up. The smaller drivers will play with more authority in the midrange bandwidth and will beam less than the 6.5" drivers near the crossover frequency (2200).
> 
> I am now officially on vacation as of 2 hours ago (just finished a 24 hour shift). Now it is time for some work!


Trevor which program do you use to do that scheme ???

Thks,


----------



## trevordj

Meanmachine said:


> Trevor which program do you use to do that scheme ???
> 
> Thks,


I use Adobe Illustrator CS4


----------



## trevordj

Ok, here is what I have accomplished so far today: 

Most of my day involved some minor trimming and fiberglass reinforcement of the center channel. 

I am finally done with the upper center channel, just need to drill some holes and throw a coat of paint on the thing to make sure the wood and fiberglass don't show through. 

Tomorrow I will wire up the center and apply some sound deadening. I am also hoping to start the a-pillars

Stock grill










Wrapped in grill cloth










Accessories back in










In the car (matches VERY well) and gives it a cleaner look. 










My plan with wrapping the center grill with grill cloth has two functions: 1) I like the finished, more plush look it gives, 2) I will wrap the pillars in the same material and give the entire front stage a unified look. 

You may also notice the LCD screen for the gps has its cover removed. In the near future I will be doing a CF overlay as well as doing a CF overlay on the sail panels. I will continue this theme in the back of the car when I use these same materials to do the beauty panels over the subs and amplifiers.

So far I am 6 hours in today. This brings the project total to 138 hours. Thank you for looking!


----------



## JayinMI

What are you doing to the a pillars? Don't like the tweeters where they are, cause they're dead sexy.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> What are you doing to the a pillars? Don't like the tweeters where they are, cause they're dead sexy.
> 
> Jay


Oh, I have a set of L3s that will be mounted in the a-pillars as near to the sail panels as possible. So the front stage will consist of 3 L3s (center, and one in each a pillar), 2 L1Pro 2SEs already in the sails, and 1 center L1Pro. This will be coupled with the pair of MW 172s in the doors and the MW 162GT in the center.


----------



## trevordj

Alright, the center channel baffle, it isn't pretty but is well reinforced with fiberglass and strong. I will get the area sound deadened today, and run the speaker wire. It is amazing that such a simple (ugly) thing has taken so long to produce. 





































I sprayed it with a fair amount of elastomeric undercoating which will hopefully help (at least a bit) with any potential vibrations.


----------



## jimp

trevordj said:


> Alright, the center channel baffle, it isn't pretty but is well reinforced with fiberglass and strong. I will get the area sound deadened today, and run the speaker wire. It is amazing that such a simple (ugly) thing has taken so long to produce.
> 
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> 
> I sprayed it with a fair amount of elastomeric undercoating which will hopefully help (at least a bit) with any potential vibrations.


might be ugly now, but would be willing to bet good $$ it won't be when you finish with it. Very nice work, how many other installs have you done on previous cars????


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## trevordj

Well, I spent the majority of the day out with a real estate agent looking for a house. My wife and I are trying to make the April 30th deadline to get our $8000 from the government. I still got a little work done though:

I wired the center channel










Soldered and heatshrinked










Center channel in



















Thats about all I got done today :blush:. I also ran speaker wire to the center channel, but it was too dark to take any photos by the time I finished. Tomorrow I will button this up by throwing the grill back in and FINALLY move along to something else. 

I worked for a total of 3 hours today taking the project total to 141 hours.


----------



## trevordj

jimp said:


> might be ugly now, but would be willing to bet good $$ it won't be when you finish with it. Very nice work, how many other installs have you done on previous cars????


Confession time: I have done simple amplifier and prefab box installations in 3 cars, OEM speaker replacement and self made box in 2 cars, and this. I am afraid that is why this is taking so long as this is basically my first proper installation (with sound deadening, proper baffles, custom panels, etc. etc.) :blush:. Hopefully my patience and perfectionism will make up for my inexperience :blush:.


----------



## JayinMI

Actually, that center channel mount looks pretty good once installed. 
Now I'm going to go start a thread concerning tweeter placement in a center channel...is it better on the the left or right...

j/k. 


Good luck on the house.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Actually, that center channel mount looks pretty good once installed.
> Now I'm going to go start a thread concerning tweeter placement in a center channel...is it better on the the left or right...
> 
> j/k.
> 
> 
> Good luck on the house.
> 
> Jay


lolz! Ya, it actually didn't turn out too bad. Considering the fact that it will never be seen by anyone once the grill is installed, I am happy.


----------



## sydmonster

progress is nice! best of luck with the house!

Those HAT SE's are sweeet! (nomnomno)


----------



## Robin W.

JayinMI said:


> Actually, that center channel mount looks pretty good once installed.
> Now I'm going to go start a thread concerning tweeter placement in a center channel...is it better on the the left or right...
> 
> j/k.
> 
> 
> Good luck on the house.
> 
> Jay


LOL I was going to make the same comment, usually the tweeter is above/below the mid, or a sideways MTM. However I'm sure the "car/glass" will have a greater impact on the sound, but if that MS8 is half as good as it's been made out to be I'm sure it will bring the whole front stage together very nicely.


----------



## trevordj

^It will be fine. The stock center channel was in the same configuration. There simply is no way to do it any other way save cutting the dash. I am just heading out to start working on the a-pillars now. FINALLY something besides that damn center channel.


----------



## Robin W.

trevordj said:


> ^It will be fine. The stock center channel was in the same configuration. There simply is no way to do it any other way save cutting the dash. I am just heading out to start working on the a-pillars now. FINALLY something besides that damn center channel.


I'm really looking forward to see how you mount the L3's, I will be doing A pillars with L4's + tweets, but I'm not exactly sure how yet. I'm hoping for fairly flush mount aluminum baffles integrated into the plastic pillar.

Good luck with your pillars, I'm sure they will turn out great.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> I'm really looking forward to see how you mount the L3's, I will be doing A pillars with L4's + tweets, but I'm not exactly sure how yet. I'm hoping for fairly flush mount aluminum baffles integrated into the plastic pillar.
> 
> Good luck with your pillars, I'm sure they will turn out great.


Thanks man! Right now I am making some flush mount rings. I am hoping to track down some sort of grill material that I can easily shape to fit the curve of the a-pillar and then I will cover with grill cloth so the midranges will be hidden. I think a trip to the hardware store may be in order to see what I can find.


----------



## SKG

trevordj said:


> Thanks man! Right now I am making some flush mount rings. I am hoping to track down some sort of grill material that I can easily shape to fit the curve of the a-pillar and then I will cover with grill cloth so the midranges will be hidden. I think a trip to the hardware store may be in order to see what I can find.


Are the a-pillars really that big/fat?


----------



## trevordj

SKG said:


> Are the a-pillars really that big/fat?


Not yet


----------



## IBcivic

:thumbsup::lurk: nice progress


----------



## IBcivic

are you E-stalking me?


----------



## JayinMI

Trevor, look at Doitor's build log...he got some aluminum mesh and it seems to bend very well, judging by his results. I don't know where he got it from, but I'd like to 

Jay


----------



## IBcivic

here is one place you can get it from.
McMaster-Carr


----------



## petermakar

lookin good


----------



## trevordj

Thanks for the suggestions guys. That McMaster-Carr website has exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## trevordj

Here has what I have been up to the past 2 days: 

Wired up the center channel and did fair amount of sound deadening




























Final product (these really are done now)










Ran wire nice and tidy (includes wire for the forthcoming center midbass)


----------



## Brian_smith06

that looks very clean. nice work


----------



## trevordj

Started on the a pillars as well. The plan: 1) Build a reverse mount baffle for the L3s, 2) Position baffles to a pillars with hot glue and dowels as necessary, 3) Wrap with grill cloth and glass final shape, 4) Shape and attach aluminum mesh to match the shape and flow of the rest of the pillar, 5) Upholster with grill cloth that matches center channel. 

Hopefully the final result will be a stealth midrange installation. 

Pictures: 

Cut and drilled baffles










Drilled to flush mount hurricane nuts as I did for the baffles in the doors










If they were any more flush they would be toilets



















After A LOT of sanding to get the front baffles to the proper thickness and hitting the inside edge with a 1/8" roundover bit (both to minimize near field reflections created by the reverse mount baffle). 





































That is as far as I have come with the pillars. This process involved a lot of trial and error (theme of the project as a whole I would say) and multiple iterations to get right. 

This and the rest of the center channel work represent 12 more hours of work (seriously, I work slower than anyone on this forum). This brings the project total to 153 hours. 

Thank you for looking!


----------



## trevordj

Brian_smith06 said:


> that looks very clean. nice work


Thank mang!


----------



## Brian_smith06

your build is really making me ready for summer break. I am ready to start a real install in my car vs. the half assed way i have it now


----------



## bkjay

On the center channel, is the baffle sealed from the front of the cone?
BTW great install!


----------



## trevordj

bkjay said:


> On the center channel, is the baffle sealed from the front of the cone?
> BTW great install!


YES! Thats what I have spent the last couple weeks trying to get right. It would have been very easy to just slap them in there, but I had to figure out how to fit a round peg in a square hole AND seal the speaker AND fit said speaker under the stock grill. There are a few areas where I was concerned that the baffle would not be sealed (for example where the stock grill clips meet the plastic mount). Here, I did the best I could and glued a ***** load of closed cell foam tightly to seal it. I don't know if it is perfect, but it is the best I could do.


----------



## audioneek

Looking great and glad I found the site, good to see no fingers lost and the edge turned out great  Nik


----------



## RattyMcClelland

Good work so far.

I would chamfer around the bottom of the L3s baffle to let the L3s breath better.


----------



## jorgegarcia

My hat's off to you for wanting a center channel and doing everything that's necessary to make it happen.


----------



## trevordj

audioneek said:


> Looking great and glad I found the site, good to see no fingers lost and the edge turned out great  Nik


Thank you and welcome to the forum!


----------



## trevordj

RattyMcClelland said:


> Good work so far.
> 
> I would chamfer around the bottom of the L3s baffle to let the L3s breath better.


Yep, I am planning on that today. 



jorgegarcia said:


> My hat's off to you for wanting a center channel and doing everything that's necessary to make it happen.


Thanks you!


----------



## jaydub

Those HAT drivers look really nice. The work you've done really motivates me to do something above a simple drop-in replacement in my car! Nice work.


----------



## trevordj

Ok, it finally stopped raining long enough for me to actually get some work done. 

Pulled the a pillar trim










Removed the stock upholstery, what I was left with was this: 










That damn cotton material took me about 3 hours to remove. Heat gun and goof off did nothing to remove it. 

What I have to work with



















Taped and foiled





































First layer of glass down


----------



## trevordj

After a couple layers



















After a few more layers and trimmed the pillars



















Tomorrow (weather permitting) I will use some dowels to set the location of the mids and stretch it with grill cloth to mold the new shape. 

This represents 12 hours of work bringing the project total to 165 hours. Thanks for looking!

On an alternative, unrelated note, my wife and I found a house and very close to finalizing a price with the builder and signing a contract. We will are first time home buyers and are VERY excited to finally have our own space. Cross your fingers for us!


----------



## trevordj

audioneek said:


> Looking great and glad I found the site, good to see no fingers lost and the edge turned out great  Nik


Hahaha! I just realized who this was (I'm a little slow). I can't wait to start on your NSX in the near future


----------



## trevordj

Got a little more work done today. It was raining the majority of the day, but I still managed to get the location of the mids set. Tomorrow I will trim the base, wrap with cloth, and strengthen with some glass. 

The baffle was attached to the pillar with hot melt and dowels. It took me a half a dozen tries to get the angle to match the tweeters



















and the driver's side





































Strengthened with additional dowels and repositioned/replaced them as necessary to get the shape of the frame I am looking for. As always, the most difficult part of this is obtaining mirror image. 



















The final frame with mids removed



















When starting this project, I never realized how difficult my tastes and requirements would make the installation. For example, the center speakers BARELY fit. Now, the mids BARELY fit within the width of the a pillar (the speaker and frame must be able to sneak past the pillar to there reverse mounting location)... If I could be happy with a regularly mounted speaker, this would not be as big an issue. Not an issue so far, I just hope my luck is not exceeded by the difficulty of the installation for the speakers that remain to be mounted. 

Anyway, sorry for the rant. This represents a mere 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 169 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## IBcivic

if you did not put in your own personal tweaks in the build, it would be just another build,man.... your build is coming along well. in the end you will reap the benefits of the extra work that is put in.


----------



## jimp

very nice work & dedication to boot. GL on the new house.


----------



## Robin W.

looks good sofar, what is the enclosure shape going to be? Are you going to taper the enclosure into the dash and follow the fiberglass that you already have or trim it off and make the enclosure tighter around the mid?

Either way it should look great when you are done. Have you been able to do any listening tests with the mid/tweeter in that location? Or did you choose the location based on where it fit and how it looked?


----------



## trevordj

Alright, more progress today

I marked the desired shape after much consideration in an attempt to 1) make an aesthetically pleasing final product, 2) respect the original design of the car, and 3) loosely play off the design motif of the sail panel. 



















The panels were carefully trimmed


----------



## trevordj

(continued)





































Test fit in the car before glassing the final shape


----------



## trevordj

Wrapped with grill cloth and secured with hot melt










I'll have to round out this angle between the dowels and pillar




























The passenger side


----------



## trevordj

Mixed up some resin and applied to the cloth



















All cured




























That is it for today. This represents 5 hours of work bringing the project total to 174 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> if you did not put in your own personal tweaks in the build, it would be just another build,man.... your build is coming along well. in the end you will reap the benefits of the extra work that is put in.


Thanks man, yesterday I was getting pissed at myself for adding all of these extra steps without realizing how much more challenging it would make things. I am better today! I shall keep forging onward. 



jimp said:


> very nice work & dedication to boot. GL on the new house.


Thank you! We are still waiting to hear if they accepted out 2nd offer... hopefully will get word tomorrow. 



Robin W. said:


> looks good sofar, what is the enclosure shape going to be? Are you going to taper the enclosure into the dash and follow the fiberglass that you already have or trim it off and make the enclosure tighter around the mid?
> 
> Either way it should look great when you are done. Have you been able to do any listening tests with the mid/tweeter in that location? Or did you choose the location based on where it fit and how it looked?


Thanks Robin! Hopefully your first question is now answered. 

As to listening tests, I chose location based on theories I had read by the wiser members here but did base location on listening to different location or aiming speakers with laser pointers. In the end, it was a trade off between aesthetics, practicality, and theory.


----------



## trevordj

Over on C30world forum I posted this WRT the plans for the hatch layout. I figured I would share here as well in case anyone has constructive feedback:



trevordj said:


> My plans for the hatch area are complete but this will be the last thing I do. Fortunately the time draws nearer. The only things left to do are finish up the a pillars, fabricate the center midbass mounting location, mount the rear speakers (won't take long), and then hatch fabrication will begin.
> 
> Hopefully this will tide you over in the mean time:
> 
> A sneak peak at the rear hatch plans
> 
> When you open the hatch it will appear with off black carpet as it does stock. However, this will be backless carpet with aluminum grill covering the subwoofers. All equipment will be completely invisible to less than desirable individuals but the subs will still be able to play through the backless carpet. The entire hatch area will remain functional.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There will be a hinge at the back, much like stock, and gas springs will be installed to raise the top panel and reveal this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A beauty panel hiding a false floor upholstered in more off-black backless carpet and a second panel finished with a carbon fiber overlay.
> 
> Below the beauty panel will be an elevated carpeted panel holding the MS-8 and some of the wiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below the carpeted panel will be the carpeted floor of the hatch panel housing the remaining wiring and two of the 4 arc audio amplifiers. Facing the front of the car are the two fans to help with cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the rear seats are folded down they will reveal the front side of the panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two stinger fans, one reversed, housed in a decorative inlay finished with carbon fiber.
> 
> These plans have been developed over the past several months. I have no doubt I can make this happen. I just cannot guarantee how much time it will take me :blush:.
> 
> Hopefully that gives you a good idea of what I have planned.


----------



## trevordj

Progress in the last week: Work has been busy again; I am taking call every 2 days until the end of the month as a consequence of my week off. 

Anyway, I did have today off so I was able to get some work done in addition to a few hours here and there throughout the week.

I added 3 layers of 3/4oz chopped mat to the pillars. Also added 2 layers on the inside as possible (wasn't able to reach into all the crevices).




























Truth be told, this is my first time doing fiberglass work (other than the small amount I did on the center channel). I am happy with my rookie results. 

I sanded down the glass and cloth over the baffles



















And gave the glass a good once over with 60 grit attached to the orbital sander










I cut some aluminum grill to fit over the baffle and, after many layers of duraglas and several hours sanding, I have the general shape I am looking for










That is all of my progress for now. I still have several hours of body work ahead of me, but I am happy with how they are coming along. 

This represents 13 hours of work bringing the project total to 187 hours. Thank you for looking!


----------



## Robin W.

Hey Trevor, I really like the look of the pods and grills. 

On a side note, what type of lighting setup are you using with the D90? I have to dig out my tripod etc to get nice product shots.

Keep up the good work, can't wait to see them covered.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Robin!

This thread shows my lighting rig when I am taking product shots... pretty simple really, just some seamless white paper in a cut up cardboard box with a small strobe and shoot through umbrella on a stand. 

For most of my build shots I either use no flash or a Nikon SB-900 on camera in manual mode either bounced off the ceiling, or on axis (power turned WAAAAY down... usually 1/64th or 128th power just for some fill... I generally hate on axis lighting and try to avoid it unless absolutely necessary). My weapon (lens) of choice is my Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 or my Nikon 10.5mm fisheye.


----------



## trevordj

Oh, and I forgot to mention we came to an agreement on our new house. Note the size of the garage


----------



## JayinMI

Nice. Guess being a doctor pays off. 

Nice progress...I was just thinking I was going to post up to see if there had been any progress, and Poof! there it was! 

Jay


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> Nice. Guess being a doctor pays off.
> 
> Nice progress...I was just thinking I was going to post up to see if there had been any progress, and Poof! there it was!
> 
> Jay


Thanks Jay! Unfortunately being a doc is not all champagne and hot tubs as I thought it would be . My wife actually makes better money as a teacher than I do as a resident :blush:.


----------



## jmontoya21

awesome work keep it up


----------



## JayinMI

trevordj said:


> Thanks Jay! Unfortunately being a doc is not all champagne and hot tubs as I thought it would be . My wife actually makes better money as a teacher than I do as a resident :blush:.


I'm sure that will change eventually....My GF is a nursing student (who is considering PA school after she gets her BSN) and has told me a bunch of stories about the new doctors at the hospital she was doing her clinicals at and how they have to work 36 hr shifts, and stuff...I guess it's like paying dues to get in to the club, ya know.

Something tells me if it was all champagne and hot tubs, there would be now wife for very long! 

What are your eventual plans for the medical field? Private practice?
Nip/Tuck? 

Jay


----------



## Robin W.

Very nice house, congrats! I wish I had a larger garage, I designed my workspace around fitting the G35 in the garage nicely. My work benches, storage and CNC machine take up the rest of the space so the F150 might physically fit in the garage but there would be no way to work on it. So the truck will be beside the garage for most of the install. So the small snow storm we had this weekend makes it unpleasant to work. Our snow has been gone for months, but we get bizzare weather sometimes.


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> I'm sure that will change eventually....My GF is a nursing student (who is considering PA school after she gets her BSN) and has told me a bunch of stories about the new doctors at the hospital she was doing her clinicals at and how they have to work 36 hr shifts, and stuff...I guess it's like paying dues to get in to the club, ya know.
> 
> Something tells me if it was all champagne and hot tubs, there would be now wife for very long!
> 
> What are your eventual plans for the medical field? Private practice?
> Nip/Tuck?
> 
> Jay


Unfortunately, yes 30 hour shifts are common. Occasionally longer shifts occur... even though they technically aren't supposed to. For example, today I start a 72 hour call . 

Eventually I will be in private practice... in a couple years that is. 



Robin W. said:


> Very nice house, congrats! I wish I had a larger garage, I designed my workspace around fitting the G35 in the garage nicely. My work benches, storage and CNC machine take up the rest of the space so the F150 might physically fit in the garage but there would be no way to work on it. So the truck will be beside the garage for most of the install. So the small snow storm we had this weekend makes it unpleasant to work. Our snow has been gone for months, but we get bizzare weather sometimes.


Thanks Robin!


----------



## trevordj

Luckily call has been very slow today so I was able to get about 7 hours into the pillars . Nothing crazy, just some more shaping and smoothing, but I thought I would share. 

More duraglas to get the exact shape I am looking for










You can see how I really feathered this angle for a smooth transition... again symmetry being the biggest challenge when shaping things like this by hand. 




























The other side




























Kinda hard to see, but I am trying to subtly mimic (without copying for the sake of interest) the shape of the a-pillar to give the front stage a common theme.


----------



## trevordj

Rage Gold down










After some sanding

Passenger Side:


----------



## trevordj

Driver Side:























































That is it for now. I still need to do some sanding by hand and block sand (all of this was done with the orbital). I think they are coming along nicely though. This represents 7 hours of work bringing the project total to 194 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## sydmonster

nicely done. are you going to paint or wrap those a pillars? Can i suggest you put a guide coat down and sand (* a guide coat is a light coat of usually black paint splatter or dots)

194 hours and counting!


----------



## Candisa

Nice work!

I like how you did the rear-mount thing with the access hole trough the original pillar and end up with a smooth stock look. This gives me inspiration for my own A-pillars that will need to hold a set of these: http://daytonaudio.com/files/specs/ND20FB-4_specsheet.pdf

Volvo for life! I drive a 940 and we just bought a 740 for Xenia to replace her ****roën van, after owning a Saab, she can't be a happy driver anymore in something not-Swedish 

How are you gonna finish those pillars? Paint, texture coat, flock, fabric?

Isabelle


----------



## trevordj

sydmonster said:


> nicely done. are you going to paint or wrap those a pillars? Can i suggest you put a guide coat down and sand (* a guide coat is a light coat of usually black paint splatter or dots)
> 
> 194 hours and counting!


Thank you! I will be wrapping the pillars with the same grill cloth as I wrapped the center channel grill. I will definitely be using a guide coat in the near future to make sure it is nice and flat. 

I am utterly amazed how much time this has taken. I would have never guessed I would already be at almost 200 hours with no end in sight. I am more worried for when I am done though... what the hell am I gonna do with me free time . 



Candisa said:


> Nice work!
> 
> I like how you did the rear-mount thing with the access hole trough the original pillar and end up with a smooth stock look. This gives me inspiration for my own A-pillars that will need to hold a set of these: http://daytonaudio.com/files/specs/ND20FB-4_specsheet.pdf
> 
> Volvo for life! I drive a 940 and we just bought a 740 for Xenia to replace her ****roën van, after owning a Saab, she can't be a happy driver anymore in something not-Swedish
> 
> How are you gonna finish those pillars? Paint, texture coat, flock, fabric?
> 
> Isabelle



Thank you Isabelle. I have been checking in on your 940 build every once in a while (LOVE that car). And now a 740 in the same house, very cool!

I will finish off the pillars with the grill cloth as mentioned. I want to limit what is visible from the outside of the car to hopefully prevent less than desireables from wanting to smash my windows. I have always been a firm believer in over doing whatever I am working on. So, even though I will be upholstering these, I will still prep them as if I am painting them.


----------



## jimp

very nice work, congrats on the house.


----------



## Lanson

I've learned not to count the hours. Just whittle away when you can and that's that. Sometimes, counting the hours makes it seem not worth the time! LOL.


----------



## trevordj

jimp said:


> very nice work, congrats on the house.


Thank you sir!



fourthmeal said:


> I've learned not to count the hours. Just whittle away when you can and that's that. Sometimes, counting the hours makes it seem not worth the time! LOL.


I am counting hours only for personal interest and to prove to my wife that I have saved money by doing this myself (ok that second part is a joke). I am still having a fun time doing this and the more time I spend, the more rewarding the final product will be.


----------



## Lanson

trevordj said:


> Thank you sir!
> 
> 
> 
> I am counting hours only for personal interest and to prove to my wife that I have saved money by doing this myself (ok that second part is a joke). I am still having a fun time doing this and the more time I spend, the more rewarding the final product will be.



I'll give you this much... your technique is REALLY good, and as new as you are to this stuff, you are fearless and very skilled. You will enjoy the hell out of those SI subs too.


----------



## trevordj

fourthmeal said:


> I'll give you this much... your technique is REALLY good, and as new as you are to this stuff, you are fearless and very skilled. You will enjoy the hell out of those SI subs too.


Thank you very much! I spent the better part of a year just READING both here and fiberglass forums (every night pouring over anything I could). I was, and remain at times, intimidated to post here given the shear number of talented installers and/or theorists present. I will admit it is very rewarding putting the theoretical knowledge I acquired into practice all while continuing to learn along the way. After all, the fun for me is in LEARNING. 

Thank you!


----------



## trevordj

Update time (I am excited for this one):

More rage gold and an afternoon's worth of sanding










After a fresh coat of primer and cheap black paint. There are a few little pinholes that I would have worried about, but I didn't figure it worth wasting my glazing putty for something I was covering. These things are STRAIGHT though.


----------



## trevordj

The pillars were covered with charcoal gray grill cloth























































A piece of closed cell foam was carefully cut and attached to the bottom



















The speakers were attached inside (yes yes I know, I have not notched out the rear baffle yet).


----------



## trevordj

The pillars were mounted in the car:

Driver side





































Passenger side



















The fit is VERY tight, hopefully will avoid any vibrations



















That is all for now . This represents 11 hours of work bringing the project total to 206 hours. Thank you for looking!


----------



## mattyjman

you are going to LOVE thos L3's... fantastic mids. also, great work on the pillars... hope it sounds as good as it looks...

and don't worry about time... have of the fun on this _is_ taking the time right?!


----------



## IBcivic

just horrible...throw em out and start over



j/k great job,Trevor


----------



## trevordj

mattyjman said:


> you are going to LOVE thos L3's... fantastic mids. also, great work on the pillars... hope it sounds as good as it looks...
> 
> and don't worry about time... have of the fun on this _is_ taking the time right?!





amitaF said:


> just horrible...throw em out and start over
> 
> 
> 
> j/k great job,Trevor


Thanks guys!


----------



## bkjay

Great fit and finish.


----------



## Brian_smith06

those look fantastic. I wish I could build up the audacity to play around and do the same with my car. Hmm, good thing my dad has a tow lot and several cars like mine. Time to play


----------



## Candisa

Great job!

Have you considered putting the tweeters in there as well? (I know, a bit late for that, but it only came to my mind now I see them, I tought you were doing a F.A.S.T. frontset)

Isabelle


----------



## TPMS

looking at your last pic I love even more the job you did with the tweeter housing :surprised:


----------



## Robin W.

They look great, good work.
I was hoping you would have a test fit picture before covering. I bet they would look sweet in black that matched the look of the tweeter mount, with exposed grill etc.

So how long before you have a way to listen to them? I'm sure it will be awhile before the back end is finished but are you going to try to listen to some of it early? Or will there be a "system is finished time to listen party" lol

I love this build, quality pictures really make it that much better to "watch".


----------



## trevordj

bkjay said:


> Great fit and finish.


Thank you!



Brian_smith06 said:


> those look fantastic. I wish I could build up the audacity to play around and do the same with my car. Hmm, good thing my dad has a tow lot and several cars like mine. Time to play


Thanks Brian! Just do it! This is my first time ever using fiberglass (except the little bit of strengthening I did on the center channel) and only my second time molding stock panels (the first being the sail panels). If you screw up you can always cut it off and try again. 



Candisa said:


> Great job!
> 
> Have you considered putting the tweeters in there as well? (I know, a bit late for that, but it only came to my mind now I see them, I tought you were doing a F.A.S.T. frontset)
> 
> Isabelle


Thanks Isabelle! I did initially consider molding the tweeters into the a-pillars as well but decided against it (realizing it was a compromise sonically). If I put the tweeters in the pillars they would be uncovered (as it would be sacrilege to cover up the L1 pro SEs). I decided this would break up the carefully created, organic curves making for a final product that had less "flow." Further, in my opinion, one of the most difficult parts of an a-pillar midrange installation is creating a final product that doesn't look like a tumor sticking out of the panel. To combat this, I tried to create gradual transitions with the dash and stock pillar and I covered it with a dark grill cloth that will make it somewhat disappear into the dash, door panel, and sail panel. If I inserted a bright, shiny piece of black metal and copper into this I am afraid it would ruin this illusion (I know, I know, the pillar is still large, but the pictures do not effectively show how well it actually blends with the interior as a whole). Hopefully that makes a little more sense of why I chose not to put the tweeters up there. 



TPMS said:


> looking at your last pic I love even more the job you did with the tweeter housing :surprised:


Thank you! I am also very happy with how the shapes came together.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> They look great, good work.
> I was hoping you would have a test fit picture before covering. I bet they would look sweet in black that matched the look of the tweeter mount, with exposed grill etc.
> 
> So how long before you have a way to listen to them? I'm sure it will be awhile before the back end is finished but are you going to try to listen to some of it early? Or will there be a "system is finished time to listen party" lol
> 
> I love this build, quality pictures really make it that much better to "watch".


Thank you Robin, I will try to keep the pics coming. I still have a little bit of work to do on the pillars. I will pull them today to run speaker wire, install a bit of sound deadening, fill the space with polyfill, and push from the back side of the grill to release some of the adhesive from the cloth so it doesn't look so uneven (the photos make it worse than it really is but I am, of course, my own worst critic). 

I didn't do a test fit with them painted as, because they fit so tightly, I didn't want to risk scuffing up my dash with the exposed rough fiberglass on the bottom. 

I am trying to be patient (it is hard) but I will likely not listen to any of the new speakers until the back end is done. *Hopefully it will not take too long to do the hatch. 

*It will take a long time.


----------



## trevordj

More progress today: 

I pulled the a-pillars and pulled out the L3s. I lined the baffle and the rear spacer with foam tape. I also lined the bottom of the enclosure with some overkill. I stuffed all the recesses with some polyfill. 



















I wired the L3s by soldering directly to the terminal and covering with heat shrink as usual. 





































I chamfered the rear spacers to allow the L3s to vent properly


----------



## trevordj

The L3s were mounted and the polyfill was spread loosely around the space surrounding the speaker. 





































The speakers were wired and the speaker wire was run to the back of the car. 



















One final look at the fit of the pillar after installation (I forgot to show the driver's side fit to the dash yesterday) The passenger side actually fits a little more tightly than I showed yesterday... I realized one of the tabs was bent sideways when I removed it today. I fixed it and it sits even more flush now. I don't have any pictures to prove it just yet though . 










That is it for today. This represents 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 210 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## rhystard

wow, you've done an amazing job integrating those a-pillars into the rest of the car.


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## sydmonster

impressive work on those A pillar trims! Well done and +1 on not counting the hours


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## Kellyo77

Fantastic work and attention to detail. This is one of those threads that I immediately go to when I come to this site. Just to see the progress made.


----------



## trevordj

rhystard said:


> wow, you've done an amazing job integrating those a-pillars into the rest of the car.


Thanks you very much!



sydmonster said:


> impressive work on those A pillar trims! Well done and +1 on not counting the hours


Too late to stop now!  To me counting hours makes it more fun. I have looked at several builds on here wondering how long it takes for people to complete them. In case anyone else does the same now they have one they can look at for the answer. 



Kellyo77 said:


> Fantastic work and attention to detail. This is one of those threads that I immediately go to when I come to this site. Just to see the progress made.


Thanks a million! That is very flattering to hear.

Oh, and here is a preview of what I am working on tonight and what will happen with the sail panels this weekend


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## BigBadBakken

Threads like these actually make me think I could do this kind of stuff myself...my wife may not think that is a good idea


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## trevordj

BigBadBakken said:


> Threads like these actually make me think I could do this kind of stuff myself...my wife may not think that is a good idea


My wife doesn't think so either . She is from Coeur d'Alene, maybe it is something they teach to all the women in Eastern WA/Idaho panhandle.


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## Duncan345

Your work is amazing. I sincerely hope that you become a plastic surgeon so that you may continue to spread your gift!


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## M-Dub

Good job trevordj! :2thumbsup:


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## trevordj

^Thank you!

Minor update: 

Here is the progress on the sail panels, I won't update the time yet but its coming . 

Black tinted resin










CF applied










Several layers of resin, some trimming, rough sanding, and more resin later










I still need to wet sand these and then I will finish them with some satin clear coat... I don't want them super shiny potentially creating glares.


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## Hamburger Pimp

Yowza...inspirational! I'm not normally a fan of CF, but that looks tastefully clean, and it's the reason why I keep coming back to this log as my favorite.


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## IBcivic

noice!!!!!!!!!!!


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## trevordj

Hamburger Pimp said:


> Yowza...inspirational! I'm not normally a fan of CF, but that looks tastefully clean, and it's the reason why I keep coming back to this log as my favorite.


Thanks man! There were several build logs I drooled over when first joining this forum. I still don't think mine is even close to the same caliber as those but I am happy some are finding it of high quality.


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## Brian_smith06

suddenly wondering if a few pieces in my car would look good in carbon fiber 

hmm... ponders


----------



## douggiestyle

great job on the pillars! something about you doctors and precise attention to detail...


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## trevordj

Thanks gentlemen, I 'preciate it!


----------



## jimp

if the doctor thing doesn't work out, maybe you could be a FT installer somewhere. J/K!! You definitely gotz skillz & patience to make it all look good. Congrats for some very nice work.


----------



## IBcivic

quit teasing trevor and give us a glimpse of the L1-proSE in their new c-f clad sails


----------



## Weightless

Now this is what I call DIY!

Very nice work Trevor...for a first install. 

Kidding aside, those are probably one of the top 3 a-pillars I've seen on this site to date! 

J~


----------



## trevordj

jimp said:


> if the doctor thing doesn't work out, maybe you could be a FT installer somewhere. J/K!! You definitely gotz skillz & patience to make it all look good. Congrats for some very nice work.


Haha! Something tells me I wouldn't make it long being an installer given it has taken me 200 hours to install 8 speakers :laugh:. I do appreciate such a high compliment though. I think I will stick with doctoring and do this on the side. After I finish this I have a couple small projects I am going to help a buddy with and I will be working on my wife's car (she won't let me go ape **** like I have on mine). 



amitaF said:


> quit teasing trevor and give us a glimpse of the L1-proSE in their new c-f clad sails


Patience, patience . I just finished all the sanding on the sails tonight. Tomorrow after work: clear coat and then you will see them in all of their glory!

PS they look GOOD, I think you will find they are worth the wait . 



Weightless said:


> Now this is what I call DIY!
> 
> Very nice work Trevor...for a first install.
> 
> Kidding aside, those are probably one of the top 3 a-pillars I've seen on this site to date!
> 
> J~


Dude, thank you very much! This project has been a huge learning curve. I am enjoying not only seeing my vision come to fruition but sharing it with the forum and feeding off the suggestion and input of the many talented people here.


----------



## trevordj

Some final teaser pics before unveiling them in the car tomorrow:

Satin clear coat applied, I will let them sit overnight to make sure they completely dry





































I REALLY like how the satin clear coat turned out on these. I am going to hold off doing any of my other panels until the stereo is done otherwise it will never be finished  .


----------



## jmontoya21

man those are smooth


----------



## trevordj

The final product: 

Driver side




























Center channel and GPS



















Passenger side



















I promise, this is the last time I fiddle with the sail panels . 

These three items represent 22 hours of sweat and tears (no blood). This brings the project total to 232 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

jmontoya21 said:


> man those are smooth


Thank you sir!


----------



## Robin W.

those look sweet.
nice without being over the top!
I'll have to bug you later on how you did that.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> those look sweet.
> nice without being over the top!
> I'll have to bug you later on how you did that.


Thanks Robin! I agree; I think they are cool because of the subtlety. They are exactly what I wanted.


----------



## rhystard

wow. everything you do makes me question my ghetto buildup :laugh:


----------



## Weightless

Nice choice on the satin finish. 

It adds enough visual texture without standing out too much.

Very smooth job man.

So, with cf, you lay the black tinted resin down first, then the cf and finish up with clear resin. Once dry, you clear-coat it?


----------



## trevordj

rhystard said:


> wow. everything you do makes me question my ghetto buildup :laugh:


Thank you sir! I am but a novice; anyone can do this with enough time and patience. 



Weightless said:


> Nice choice on the satin finish.
> 
> It adds enough visual texture without standing out too much.
> 
> Very smooth job man.
> 
> So, with cf, you lay the black tinted resin down first, then the cf and finish up with clear resin. Once dry, you clear-coat it?


Thank you!

You got it with the process. When you lay down the black resin you have to wait until it is almost dry (tacky but does not come off on your gloved finger) to lay down the CF otherwise it will bleed through. After the CF is down you put on a hefty "flood coat" and let it completely cure. Then you rough sand any high spots (doesn't have to be perfect, just get it flat-ish). Then lay down 2-3 coats of resin letting it tack between. Then lay down a final layer of resin with surfacing wax added. You can either sand to 1500 or 2000 grit and polish the part or you can clear coat it. 

Many use epoxy, but for an overlay that is not necessary (from a strength perspective). Unless you bake it, it will gel a bit in the sun. The good folks over at us composites steered me away from that idea and led me to go with the (silmar) surfboard resin. 

Here is one tutorial I used

and another (long video)

and another shorter video (from a company that sells an overlay kit)

If you are reasonably proficient with fiberglass work and body work then you should have no problems.


----------



## IBcivic

i'm jealous... nice job man!


----------



## Weightless

Thanks for the links.

I may have to try this on a couple of things when I get some extra money.

Good luck with the rest of the install. Actually, never mind. You don't need luck.

Good SKILLS with the rest of the install.


----------



## sbeezy

trevor i applaud your work very much u have me itching for more of your awesome goodness keep up the awsome work!!!!


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## Meanmachine

trevordj said:


> The final product:
> 
> Driver side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Center channel and GPS
> 
> 
> 
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> Passenger side
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I promise, this is the last time I fiddle with the sail panels .
> 
> These three items represent 22 hours of sweat and tears (no blood). This brings the project total to 232 hours. Thanks for looking!


Trevor, the CF sail panels are insane ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
Did you use polyester resin or epoxy resin ???


----------



## Ianaconi

You should replace the Dynaudio badge on the center channel with a HAT badge hehe


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## trevordj

Meanmachine said:


> Trevor, the CF sail panels are insane ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
> Did you use polyester resin or epoxy resin ???


Thank you! After a long, helpful conversation with the good folks over at US composites I used a UV resistant polyester surfboard resin (silmar). Great stuff; worked like a charm. 

Here is a complete materials list: 

Carbon Fiber: 5.7oz 1st quality twill 60in width 1 yard

Resin: Silmar 249 Clear Polyester Surfboard Resin 1 Gallon

Pigment: Black carbon 4oz

Brushes: Glasskoter 1/2" x a whole bunch

Surfacing wax: 2 oz bottle



Ianaconi said:


> You should replace the Dynaudio badge on the center channel with a HAT badge hehe


That would be really cool!


----------



## trevordj

Some minor progress today after I got home from being out of town. Nothing earth shattering, just marked the center console for the midbass and started on some rings. 

My plan for the center channel involves 1) making a fiberglass mount behind the center console utilizing some stock bolts to secure it, 2) building a baffle out of two birch rings bridged by fiberglass. The baffle will mount in the car first, then the console will slide over the baffle. Finally, 3) a trim panel will be made using two square pieces of birch bridged with fiberglass and finished with carbon fiber. Clear as mud? 

I marked the location of the midbass










The wood rings were cut










This shows how the trim ring will fit over the baffle










Thats it for today, hopefully more will follow tomorrow. 

Cheers!


----------



## trevordj

More progress: 

Drilled the baffle and trim ring, hit it with a 1/4" roundover, and tapped in some hurricane nuts. I also added some foam tape and glued a 1/4" ring (sanded to 1/8") so that the grill for the MW-162 sits flush (not pictured). 




























Marked the console










Trimmed (also trimmed the panel above, not pictured). 



















Mocked up in the car










The console was removed. 

I moved to begin a mounting surface for the created baffles. The area behind the console was taped and marked. Four stock bolts and two stock screws will be used to securely mount the mounting surface. This mounting surface will serve as a base to which the baffle will be bonded with some duraglas. 










Half the taped area received 3 layers of 3/4oz fiberglass. I will let this cure good and proper overnight then remove it first thing tomorrow. Tomorrow I will also glass the the other half. I will them bolt both halves in the car and join them together. 

That is it for now. Progress was slow as usual (it was damn HOT today). Between this and yesterday I was able to bank 9 hours of work. This brings the project total to 241 hours. Thank you for looking!


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## jmontoya21

i guess you have a second car and this one in the garage right?


----------



## trevordj

jmontoya21 said:


> i guess you have a second car and this one in the garage right?


Um, nope. This is my daily driver :blush:. Every night when I am packing up I put the driver's seat back in the car so I can go to work. Luckily, this week I am on vacation so I don't need to do that .

Edit: oh ya, and I don't currently have a garage to store my car in (it is full of my tools and interior). I do all of my work in the parking lot of my apartment complex. I close on my new house with a large 2 car garage at the end of the month. No more working out in the elements!.


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## bkjay

Man you are going all out on this install!! Great job!!!


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## jmontoya21

wow,major props for you man,again keep it up,hope you get to finnish real soon and enjoy a well deserved sound system,and a house to go with


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## trevordj

Thank you gentlemen! Progress is slow but steady. With the first unboxing of the MS-8 today I am hoping I will receive mine in the very near future .


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## dantonel

trevordj said:


> Edit: oh ya, and I don't currently have a garage to store my car in (it is full of my tools and interior). I do all of my work in the parking lot of my apartment complex. I close on my new house with a large 2 car garage at the end of the month. No more working out in the elements!.


Ah yes, The days of working in the Parking lot of the Apartment complex... I put my Pioneer 6x9's in my old Talon in 110 degree heat cause I couldn't stand the sound of the stocks... The things we put ourselves through for great audio...


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## DaveRulz

"pioneer bynines" "great sound" ...two phrases that I wouldn't expect to see in the same sentence! LOL

Major props on this build. Better than the work you see coming out of many "professionals"

The cool thing about keeping track of the hours is you can take that time, and then multiply it by the going labor rate, and know how much an install of that caliber would really cost.


----------



## trevordj

DaveRulz said:


> "pioneer bynines" "great sound" ...two phrases that I wouldn't expect to see in the same sentence! LOL
> 
> Major props on this build. Better than the work you see coming out of many "professionals"
> 
> The cool thing about keeping track of the hours is you can take that time, and then multiply it by the going labor rate, and know how much an install of that caliber would really cost.


My thoughts exactly. This is how I justify the "savings" of this project to my wife . Thanks man!


----------



## trevordj

Today I continued work on the center midbass. 

The other side received 3 layers of 3/4oz fiberglass



















Both sides were removed, holes drilled and bolted in place










Several layers of glass were added to bridge the gap










Removed


----------



## trevordj

Several more layers of 3/4oz were added (at least 4). Any high spots were roughly sanded down





































The way dash looks behind the center console










The backing plate was mounted










The console replaced










Upper panel replaced


----------



## trevordj

The mounting ring was attached with duraglas










Idiot alert: I realized as I looked at these pictures that in my haste to get the final ring mounted with dowels and hot melt; I did it backward :blush:. I will fix it tomorrow. 

Wooden dowels were glued in place to the mounting ring










The outer ring was attached with hot melt.


----------



## trevordj

Sidebar: as one of my layers of glass was curing I started mocking up the amplifiers under the front seats. As I did this, I realized that the brand new Arc KS 300.4 amp I purchased recently is smaller than the other KS 300.4. 




























Did anyone else realize the newer Arc KS series amplifiers were smaller? By dumb luck, it actually works out in my favor as I now will not have to relocate some factory wiring under the driver seat. 

Edit: Sure enough, the Arc site indicates the KS 300.2 and 300.4 sport a new "compact chassis design." They have shrunk by 1.75" in the longest dimension. The KS 500.1, 1000.1, and 900.6 remain with the same dimensions. 

Mock up under the seats:

Driver side










Passenger side










I will get to mounting these later...

This represents 9 hours of work bringing the project total to 250 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## CA4944

That bag is not a toy. 

Seriously, though, great work and documentation. Is Duraglass really adequate to glue one piece to another? I've never used it, but if that is really how it works, it seems as though I'll need to try some!


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## trevordj

CA4944 said:


> That bag is not a toy.
> 
> Seriously, though, great work and documentation. Is Duraglass really adequate to glue one piece to another? I've never used it, but if that is really how it works, it seems as though I'll need to try some!


Duraglas is a short strand fiberglass impregnated body filler. Many have used it with good success particularly when attaching wood to fiberglass. This is my first time using it for this purpose so we will see. I will need to add some more to the outside of the ring tomorrow (that I couldn't reach without getting it all over the panels). When I do that I will drill some holes to make sure it adheres good and proper. 

And yes, I will be sure not to use the plastic bag that came with my amplifier to entertain any toddlers as I had originally planned :laugh:.


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## JayinMI

Unless you're at Walmart and they're not your toddlers. :laugh:

Jay


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## sydmonster

I'm all the more impresst by the fact you're not even working from a proper shed/garage


----------



## miniSQ

trevordj said:


> Sidebar: as one of my layers of glass was curing I started mocking up the amplifiers under the front seats. As I did this, I realized that the brand new Arc KS 300.4 amp I purchased recently is smaller than the other KS 300.4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did anyone else realize the newer Arc KS series amplifiers were smaller? By dumb luck, it actually works out in my favor as I now will not have to relocate some factory wiring under the driver seat.
> 
> Edit: Sure enough, the Arc site indicates the KS 300.2 and 300.4 sport a new "compact chassis design." They have shrunk by 1.75" in the longest dimension. The KS 500.1, 1000.1, and 900.6 remain with the same dimensions.
> 
> Mock up under the seats:
> 
> Driver side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Passenger side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will get to mounting these later...
> 
> This represents 9 hours of work bringing the project total to 250 hours. Thanks for looking!



yes i just ordered a KS 300.4, and since it is goign in my Mini Cooper...i was thrilled to read that they recently made it smaller.

Sweet install you go going there!!!


----------



## trevordj

Thanks for the comments guys. 

Well, today was a ****ty day for two reasons: 1) I broke my camera




























I was working on the car and had the camera on the tripod as usual. I bumped the camera and it fell forward hitting the edge of the bottom of the door frame. A flash was on the camera and it hit just so breaking the hot shoe off. I will call a camera repair shop on Monday to see about getting it fixed.

2) I was just finishing the mounting of the baffle in the car and one of the damn hurricane nuts crossthreaded. I had to cut out the wood baffle to get it out. I decided to give up at that point (no pics of that because that happened right after my camera broke).

Progress: 

The baffle was properly attached to the mounting surface



















The ring was wrapped in cloth, and soaked in resin










Fiberglass was added for strengthening










4 layers total



















Duraglas around the outside to be sure it is sealed


----------



## trevordj

The piece was fitted in the car





































This is where I broke my camera and the screw cross threaded. I will work on the trim ring tomorrow (you can see the beginnings of it sitting to the side of the baffle), but I am done for today so I don't set my car on fire or something. 

This represents 6 hours of working bringing the project total to 256 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Robin W.

Hey Trevor, sorry to hear about the camera. I've been keeping my D200 in a safe place in the garage between shots, that means I miss some of the action as I only take pictures after I get something finished. But I feel safer that I'm not going to do something bad to it. What kind of tripod are you using? I'd have to hit my manfrotto pretty hard from just the right angle to knock it over.

Nice work on the center though, it looks great sofar. It's hard to tell from the angle but does the mid fire into a trim/control panel?


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Robin, 

I actually do the same thing with my camera and I have a manfrotto tripod as well. I had just dropped the tripod really low to show the relationship of the midbass to the center console you referred to. My neighbor appeared with his dog and I was saying hi. I am not sure if I bumped the tripod or if it was just unstable because it was so low. In any case it went crashing to the ground . 

The midbass does fire straight into the floating center console. I will treat the back of the console with some CCF to prevent any nasty standing waves. At the frequencies the speaker will be playing I don't think it will be an issue. I had a conversation with Andy Wehmeyer over on the MS-8 and he actually was the one that recommended this and gave his blessing that this location would not have an averse effect on the speaker performance. I figured I would try and see.


----------



## trevordj

Moving on slightly today (only had a few hours this morning to work). 

I removed the stripped hurricane nut and replaced it. I mounted the speaker in the car over the beginnings of the square trim ring. I still have a bit of sanding to be sure the top of the trim ring is level with the dash. 










I used hot melt and dowels to attach the lower portion of the trim ring in place










Replaced the dash to check for clearance and double check that everything fit. 










Thats as far as I was able to get. When I get home from work tomorrow I will pull the unit from the car, sand a bit, then I will stretch grill cloth to bridge the frame of the trim panel. I will then tape up the dash and use duraglas to mold the trim panel flush with the stock dash. Then it is just body work to get the final product. 

This represents 2 hours of work bringing the project total to 258 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## galegorafa

Congrats for everything Trevor, amazing jog 

following


----------



## AdamTaylor

have you heard any update on the MS-8 trevor?


----------



## trevordj

galegorafa said:


> Congrats for everything Trevor, amazing jog
> 
> following


Thank you very much! Progress is slow but steady. 



AdamTaylor said:


> have you heard any update on the MS-8 trevor?


I have heard nothing. Originally my ship date was 05/14/2010 but checking my order status on Harman's website indicates "We are processing your order and expect to have shipping information for you by: 6/4/2010." 

What about yourself? Have you preordered and/or heard anything different. I am getting anxious to have this thing in my hands.


----------



## mobeious

i spy nikon d80? and a $1600 lens 24-70 droool


----------



## trevordj

mobeious said:


> i spy nikon d80? and a $1600 lens 24-70 droool


Close! Its a D90 and, yes a 24-70 f/2.8. I LOVE that lens; it is always my go to. Luckily I didn't damage it in the fall.


----------



## AdamTaylor

trevordj said:


> What about yourself? Have you preordered and/or heard anything different. I am getting anxious to have this thing in my hands.


nothing... i have mine coming from AudioAmerica so i can get dealer pricing on it... my rep just keeps saying we will call when we are about to ship it.

at SBN the JBL guys were telling me late april to early may i could expect to have it in my hand... guess not


----------



## JayinMI

The MS-8 thread has been going on for like 3 years now...Good luck! Hopefully not much longer.
Sorry to hear about your camera, Trevor. I usually use a 12mp Olympus point and shoot for my build pics so I won't feel too bad if something happens to it.

The way you worded it that your neighbor "appeared"makes it sounded like he startled you (or he was a Pokemon) 

Out of curiosity, could you have used a tap to fix the threads of the hurricane nut instead of redoing that whole piece?

Jay


----------



## trevordj

^Ya, it definitely wasn't my neighbor's fault. I just got distracted because I really like his dog and that's when the camera fell. 

As far as the hurricane nut, I don't know if I can say for sure that it was cross threaded. All I know was I had put the screw in and it wouldn't come out. The hurricane nut was spinning in the baffle. I was able to clamp the nut and extract the screw. I then just pulled the hurricane nut and placed a new one (this time with a little glue). I didn't have to replace the whole baffle (luckily).


----------



## derickveliz

.
I'm sorry about your camera but jealous about your install, looks awesome!

D.


----------



## Robin W.

trevordj said:


> ^Ya, it definitely wasn't my neighbor's fault. I just got distracted because I really like his dog and that's when the camera fell.
> 
> As far as the hurricane nut, I don't know if I can say for sure that it was cross threaded. All I know was I had put the screw in and it wouldn't come out. The hurricane nut was spinning in the baffle. I was able to clamp the nut and extract the screw. I then just pulled the hurricane nut and placed a new one (this time with a little glue). I didn't have to replace the whole baffle (luckily).


Hurricane nuts can definatially be a pain sometimes, I have a grid of holes in the table of the cnc machine with hurricane nuts pressed in from below. When I was making the jig to cut the subwoofer box panels I had one seize on a bolt I was threading into it which dislodged the nut. I didn't exactly give enough room to service the bottom of the table so it was a huge pain to get it off the screw and put a new one on. All in a place I can't quite fit my hand into, or even see the nut to try and work with it, but when they do work they make life a lot easier!!


----------



## mobeious

trevordj said:


> Close! Its a D90 and, yes a 24-70 f/2.8. I LOVE that lens; it is always my go to. Luckily I didn't damage it in the fall.


how do u like the D90 im tryin to deside between it and the D300s


----------



## trevordj

mobeious said:


> how do u like the D90 im tryin to deside between it and the D300s


I really like the D90. When I got into DSLRs I got the cheapest one I could find with the intention of using it until its limitations were limiting me creatively. Hence, I started with a D40. That lasted for about 6 months. I approached the D90 the same way. I purchased it when it was first released and have been using it for almost 2 years. The only reason I could see to jump to the D300S would be a)It has a magnesium body (which would have been ideal in my situation) b)It has a nicer viewfinder, c)It has more autofocus points (51 vs. 9 on the D90 IIRC). Those are specific limitations I have run into with my camera. In fact, I am toying with upgrading to the D300s rather than fixing my D90, although I will see how much the fix is first. If I hadn't broken my D90 I would not be considering an upgrade as the D90 is just a damn good camera and really fun to shoot. 

For what it is worth, the D90 is due for a refresh in the very near future. If you hold out until they update it you can either get the D90 for much cheaper, or get the replacement version. 

I always tell people to buy better lenses rather than nicer bodies though. They are well worth the money and last a long time where bodies are constantly coming and going.


----------



## mobeious

ya i got a d80... and really growing out of it only 4 autofocus points


----------



## Robin W.

The D200 is an amazing body if you don't specifically want/need the video capabilities of the D300s. And on the used market the price of a D200 is pretty attractive these days.
It has the same sealed Magnesium alloy body etc.

Depends what you are looking for though.


----------



## jaydub

yeah I use a D300, and I love love love it.

I also drooled all over that 24-70 lens, but it's a little too rich for me right now hehe. I've got the Tamron 28-75, it'll do for now.  BTW, I am really liking the carbon fiber you did on the sail panels, nie work.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> The D200 is an amazing body if you don't specifically want/need the video capabilities of the D300s. And on the used market the price of a D200 is pretty attractive these days.
> It has the same sealed Magnesium alloy body etc.
> 
> Depends what you are looking for though.


My only reservation with the D200 is the low light performance. Otherwise it is a great cam. It looks like my D90 will be fixable though . 



jaydub said:


> yeah I use a D300, and I love love love it.
> 
> I also drooled all over that 24-70 lens, but it's a little too rich for me right now hehe. I've got the Tamron 28-75, it'll do for now.  BTW, I am really liking the carbon fiber you did on the sail panels, nie work.


Great camera there. That Tamron lens ain't so bad either. I am glad you are digging the sail panels, I am very proud of the end result.


----------



## trevordj

Minor update: 

I had to scrap v1.0 of the trim panel for the center midbass. It just wasn't turning out the way I wanted (for one the damn thing was a bit crooked). I ended up stretching cloth between the two square panels and soaking with resin. It was then that I realized that it would take a **** ton of duraglas to get the shape I was looking for. 

Back to the drawing board. 

v2.0 will involve making another square panel and, instead of going with a second square panel and stretching cloth between, I have an idea to use some of the metal grill material I have (from my a-pillars) to form the shape of the sides of the trim panel. I fiddled with it a bit tonight and it will work. 

Anyway, one picture, the new square trim ring










Tomorrow I will be getting an early start and will hopefully be reporting about a finished trim panel by the end of the weekend .


----------



## Boostedrex

I just looked through this whole build log and have found it to be an AWFUL way to spend my time!! Thanks to your install I now want to make mine much more elaborate than it already is.  Great work Trevor and the patience you're showing is very admirable! Keep up the good work.

Zach


----------



## trevordj

Boostedrex said:


> I just looked through this whole build log and have found it to be an AWFUL way to spend my time!! Thanks to your install I now want to make mine much more elaborate than it already is.  Great work Trevor and the patience you're showing is very admirable! Keep up the good work.
> 
> Zach


Thank you Zach! I will admit, the project has taken about 3x longer than I thought it would. Ultimately I am willing to put in the time if it means I can proud of the final product. I appreciate your feedback as I have been through your build log many times and found much inspiration from it. 

Cheers!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Trevor....I just spent about 2 hours reading this entire thread cover to cover. You have mad skills, patience and taste. Congratulations and keep it going. When I did my build log, I thought it most important to let others know how much time I spent on the build. Glad you are doing this as well just to let these threads serve their purpose of educating others. While other people may be faster, haste makes waste! Your build is top notch for the DIY crowd. It only makes my ghetto build seem like a complete joke!

Wish I were in SA to hang out with you and learn a few things. It would be worth me volunteering my time as your apprentice!\

Keep on rockin'!


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> Trevor....I just spent about 2 hours reading this entire thread cover to cover. You have mad skills, patience and taste. Congratulations and keep it going. When I did my build log, I thought it most important to let others know how much time I spent on the build. Glad you are doing this as well just to let these threads serve their purpose of educating others. While other people may be faster, haste makes waste! Your build is top notch for the DIY crowd. It only makes my ghetto build seem like a complete joke!
> 
> Wish I were in SA to hang out with you and learn a few things. It would be worth me volunteering my time as your apprentice!\
> 
> Keep on rockin'!


Thanks a lot Kevin! I actually stole the idea to track the hours from your build log. I thought it was super helpful when trying to gauge how long to expect a proper installation to take. 

I am waiting for some resin to cure right now for the center midbass. Then I will throw on a couple layers and *fingers crossed* I think it will be done by the end of the day.


----------



## trevordj

Quick status update (I had to stop early today as the wife and I are going out for our anniversary): 

I hit the trim ring with a 1/4" roundover bit. I cut some grill material and bent it to get the shape I was looking for




























After taping down some foam (as this will ultimately be there when it is mounted), I put on a layer of 3/4 oz



















3 layers total



















I added some duraglas to the edges to make sure it fits perfectly










and a little more


----------



## trevordj

Added some more duraglas and rough sanded



















That is it for today, more sanding tomorrow followed by a layer of paint and covered with grill cloth. 

Between this and yesterday this represents 10 hours of work bringing the project total to 268 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

Update: 

I continued with the center midbass today. 

After some body filler and a bunch of sanding, I hit the trim panel with some high build primer










If I were painting this I would fill the pinholes but, this was unnecessary as this will be getting covered with grill cloth. 

Black paint










Test fit (notice the crease in the panel that extends up from the stock center console. That was not an accident )



















Covered the panel with grill cloth










Trimmed










I was hoping to get this buttoned in the car today but ran out of daylight. I added a bunch of sound deadener and closed cell foam to the center console, the air vents, and the fiberglass baffle (not pictured as it was dark at this point). I will double check everything tomorrow in the light and add a bit more foam a to prevent any panel vibrations.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I know your wife must look at that car and its guts and think you have created a disaster. But I just have to ask....when she sees some of your final products like the tweeter pods, center components, etc....does that at least give her the confidence to believe that you know what you are doing and in the end it will be worth it (and the car will not be a rolling junkyard)?

I have to think you have at least impressed her along the way...once or twice?


----------



## trevordj

I also started working on installing the amplifier under the passenger seat in between coats of paint and body filler. 

Treated the remote wire in the usual fashion










I started the RCAs. 

Canare quad mic cable










Treated in the usual fashion after soldering to Neutrik connectors










I will be mounting one of the two distribution blocks under the passenger seat (under the amplifier)










Mounted the distribution block and cut the power wire










Well that was it for today. This represents a solid 10 hours of work bringing the project total to 278 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> I know your wife must look at that car and its guts and think you have created a disaster. But I just have to ask....when she sees some of your final products like the tweeter pods, center components, etc....does that at least give her the confidence to believe that you know what you are doing and in the end it will be worth it (and the car will not be a rolling junkyard)?
> 
> I have to think you have at least impressed her along the way...once or twice?


Despite my occasional joking my wife has been very awesome throughout this project. She actually gets excited every time a finish a panel. She admitted to me today that she was very scared when she came outside one day and saw me with a Dremel in hand hunched over the dash with plumes of plastic bits flying around the cabin of the car. She is getting excited for the project to be done, but is as supportive as they come.


----------



## Robin W.

That center panel looks great as do all the rest. The wiring looks great too, exactly what I would have expected from your usual attention to detail.

So when do you get the house? (garage!) That should make some of the work easier, but I'm sure moving will put a small damper on the progress.


----------



## trevordj

Boom! Sorry for the ****ty quality, light was low and, well I can't use my flash . 





































I am going to order some black anodized screws tonight, the zinc ones stick out like sore thumbs. Otherwise I am happy.


----------



## miniSQ

trevordj said:


> I am going to order some black anodized screws tonight, the zinc ones stick out like sore thumbs. Otherwise I am happy.


i'm glad you said that....i was looking at the amazing work, but thinking..why is he not using black screws.

Also love the wiring from last night...very nice.


----------



## IBcivic

very,very nice.... 

a solid definite on the screw color.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks gentlemen, I actually had a hell of a time finding black screws in the size I need. I ended up ordering some acid etch primer and charcoal paint which should work just as well. In the mean time I will head over to fastenal and see if they will sell me some black screws in any multiple less than 10,000.


----------



## trevordj

Oh ya: 










That's my MS-8


----------



## miniSQ

McFeely's Screw Index


----------



## trevordj

miniSQ said:


> McFeely's Screw Index


I looked there yo. I could deal with the square drive, but they don't have what I need. 

#10-32 x 1 1/2" black oxide flat head machine screw. I could do a torx, socket or phillips drive. 

I found the above screws at home depot but they are zinc plated so I think painting them will have to do. A bunch of places have the screws I am looking for in boxes of 1000 or so.


----------



## TREETOP

Do you have an Ace Hardware near you? I've found a lot of mounting hardware at Ace that Lowe's and Home Depot don't have, and you can buy machine screws individually.


----------



## Robin W.

mcmaster carr also has a huge selection of hardware and the quantities are usually in the 10's 50's or 100's not 1000's.

So when do you get your camera fixed? I miss the exceptional photographs already.


----------



## trevordj

TREETOP said:


> Do you have an Ace Hardware near you? I've found a lot of mounting hardware at Ace that Lowe's and Home Depot don't have, and you can buy machine screws individually.


Thanks, that's good to know. I just figured if HD and Lowes didn't have them then Ace wouldn't. I haven't been there in years. I'll go scope it out tomorrow. 



Robin W. said:


> mcmaster carr also has a huge selection of hardware and the quantities are usually in the 10's 50's or 100's not 1000's.
> 
> So when do you get your camera fixed? I miss the exceptional photographs already.


I looked there to, no luck 

I have been lazy and haven't taken the cam over to the local shop to get it fixed yet. Tomorrow I have my builder's walk through in the new house so I think I will drop it off Wednesday. I just need to do it, I feel crippled without my flash.


----------



## Robin W.

try this:
McMaster-Carr
Not sure if the link will work but it's item #91253A014

I've never found a common screw they didn't carry, they are often more expensive than the rest though.


----------



## trevordj

^Thanks Robin, those are EXACTLY what I am looking for. I don't know how I missed them as they are usually my go to for stuff like that. I need to order some gas springs from them anyway so I will just do that at the same time. Thank you!


----------



## Kenny_Cox

i haven't looked at this thread in a while, probably about 10 pages ago. I must say sir, you have some mad skills. that center speaker you made looks so awesome in there.


----------



## trevordj

Kenny_Cox said:


> i haven't looked at this thread in a while, probably about 10 pages ago. I must say sir, you have some mad skills. that center speaker you made looks so awesome in there.


Thanks man! It's been a labor of love with one hell of a steep learning curve.


----------



## Robin W.

Now you just need to start modding all your Arc's
It's not hard, honest


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> Now you just need to start modding all your Arc's
> It's not hard, honest


Ha! I was just looking at your handy work earlier today (very impressive!). The only problem is that I need my crossover for the center channel and I don't know how to desolder (not to mention my soldering skills are only ok).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

trevordj said:


> Despite my occasional joking my wife has been very awesome throughout this project. She actually gets excited every time a finish a panel. She admitted to me today that she was very scared when she came outside one day and saw me with a Dremel in hand hunched over the dash with plumes of plastic bits flying around the cabin of the car. She is getting excited for the project to be done, but is as supportive as they come.


She is a trooper then....and a KEEPER! Tell her we said thank you for the time she allows you away from the shop to document your build!


----------



## trevordj

Well, I took my camera over to the repair shop and it will be fixed for $300 at most, more likely $175. Not too shabby. Unfortunately, it will take 3 weeks to get it done. 

On to the photos (there aren't many): 

I got my MS-8!










I found some black screws at a local hardware store, unfortunately had to purchase 100 of them. If anyone needs 94 hex socket, flat head 1 1/2" black oxide #10-32 machine screws, let me know. 










This week I made all of the wires for the front amplifiers. I cut some mounts and mocked up the amp in the car with the seat in just to be sure it will fit. It does . Here is a shot of some of the wiring










I will work on the driver side tomorrow. I am hoping to get the carpet mounted and both the front seats back in the car PERMANENTLY tomorrow. I have been rolling around with one seat for the past 3 months. 

I got about 6 hours in on the car today and throughout the week. This brings the project total to 284 hours. Damn, 300 hours is just around the corner.


----------



## trevordj

Today I started working on the driver side amplifier mounting. 

Wooden mounts in and crossover mounted










Crossover all wired up










Test fit to be sure of adequate clearance (crossover will be under the carpet, the amplifier will be above)










Passenger side mocked up with wiring










Grounding point for passenger amplifier (ground to bare metal, factory ground location)










Wiring all buttoned up in the front of the car. 

Passenger side










Driver side



















The rest of the day was spent trimming the foam on the underside of the carpet and test fitting in the car. I still need to mock up the rest of the wiring on the driver side. I will then pull the center console, install the carpet, permanently install the amps, and replace the front seat. I should be able to finish that tomorrow (I know, I know I said that yesterday ). 

This represents a solid 8 hours of work bringing the project total to 292 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## bassfromspace

Trevor,

How'd you attach the wooden amp mounts to the floor?


----------



## trevordj

bassfromspace said:


> Trevor,
> 
> How'd you attach the wooden amp mounts to the floor?


Liquid nails. It is the only thing I could think of to attach the mounts without drilling through the metal floor. I am hoping it will hold, so far it seems solid.


----------



## Robin W.

Be careful if you are going to have multiple grounds for the amps etc. depending on how all of the electronics reference ground you can sometimes run into trouble. It only takes two to give you a bad ground loop.

Otherwise it looks great, the center does look much better with black screws. Good use of space under the seat also, gives me the idea that I might be able to use some of the room under my front seats.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> Be careful if you are going to have multiple grounds for the amps etc. depending on how all of the electronics reference ground you can sometimes run into trouble. It only takes two to give you a bad ground loop.
> 
> Otherwise it looks great, the center does look much better with black screws. Good use of space under the seat also, gives me the idea that I might be able to use some of the room under my front seats.


Ya, I have considered that. It came down to either some long ground runs to find a common ground point for all 4 amps + the MS-8, or just risking going with a couple ground points. I decided to risk it. If I have any noise, this will be the first thing I look to, but I really don't think it will be a problem.


----------



## bassfromspace

Thanks for you response!

I figured it was Liquid Nails but wanted to be sure.

Where did you get your power wire grommet from?


----------



## .BNO.

trevordj said:


> Liquid nails. It is the only thing I could think of to attach the mounts without drilling through the metal floor. I am hoping it will hold, so far it seems solid.


pretty sure it will do the job nicely! 

Ive seen it used to hold floor tiles down so pretty sure it will hold fast in your car! (best friend is a tiler and showed me the butcher attempt to tile repair some guy did).


----------



## trevordj

bassfromspace said:


> Thanks for you response!
> 
> I figured it was Liquid Nails but wanted to be sure.
> 
> Where did you get your power wire grommet from?


No problem my friend! The firewall grommet was purchased from parts express.


----------



## trevordj

.BNO. said:


> pretty sure it will do the job nicely!
> 
> Ive seen it used to hold floor tiles down so pretty sure it will hold fast in your car! (best friend is a tiler and showed me the butcher attempt to tile repair some guy did).


Good to know! I was nervous that this would be considered a half-assed way of attaching the mount, but thought it was a better choice than drilling through the floor pan.


----------



## .BNO.

trevordj said:


> Good to know! I was nervous that this would be considered a half-assed way of attaching the mount, but thought it was a better choice than drilling through the floor pan.


just let it cure and should be fine. ill be doing it for when i put the mounts in for my false floor. i dont feel overly keen welding now ( that and ive laid down dampener.)


----------



## AdamTaylor

damn, mine should be in tuesday... missed the call from my distributor


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just something to get your mind off of DIY audio installs....

TG drives Volvo C30 Polestar - BBC Top Gear


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> Just something to get your mind off of DIY audio installs....
> 
> TG drives Volvo C30 Polestar - BBC Top Gear


Oh ya! I have seen that. The C30 forum lit up when that review was posted. I am not sure I am a fan of the suede dash and the double spoiler, but I LOVE those wheels. Unfortunately, BBS wants $8,000 for them. I think I will just powdercoat my stockers black.


----------



## derickveliz

.

*I had the same inspiration for my wheels!*










And the same with your install, it's all about inspiration, 

though my Yaris doesn't compares to your C30, what a nice job you are doing, I wish I could do some thing like that to my car! good job!

D.


----------



## trevordj

derickveliz said:


> .
> 
> *I had the same inspiration for my wheels!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the same with your install, it's all about inspiration,
> 
> though my Yaris doesn't compares to your C30, what a nice job you are doing, I wish I could do some thing like that to my car! good job!
> 
> D.


Thank you my friend! Your wheels look awesome! Did you powder coat those? That is exactly the color I am going for.


----------



## miniSQ

I was in a dealership this weekend in hartford and test drove the C30 with my friend who is looking to buy one. I think he is going to buy the orange one and go to sweeden in September to take delivery. That seems like a great deal....free airfare and 8% off the top.

On a side note, i didn't find the dynaudio premium system to be that bad for the average joe...much nicer than my mini cooper came with.


----------



## derickveliz

trevordj said:


> Thank you my friend! Your wheels look awesome! Did you powder coat those? That is exactly the color I am going for.



*You are welcome, you deserve it, all the work and hours on this project!*


No I didn't, these are *O.Z. Ultraleggera*, I got them from TireRack.












Derick


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am a fan of black wheels too.....me on The Dragon....
PhotoReflect - Powerhead Productions - killboy.com - Deals Gap - Saturday - July 21st, 2007


----------



## trevordj

miniSQ said:


> I was in a dealership this weekend in hartford and test drove the C30 with my friend who is looking to buy one. I think he is going to buy the orange one and go to sweeden in September to take delivery. That seems like a great deal....free airfare and 8% off the top.
> 
> On a side note, i didn't find the dynaudio premium system to be that bad for the average joe...much nicer than my mini cooper came with.


For sure, the stock dynaudio system is very respectable. After looking at the drivers and talking to some folks over at Dynaudio, they are basically a modified System 242. I have been listening to the rear speakers only for the past several months and, after nothing more than some deadening, they get loud enough to shake my rear view on stock power (and sound pretty damn good doing it too). I would be curious to hear a stock Volvo Dynadio system with only an MS-8 and a sub.


----------



## Nophix

chefhow said:


> Yeah I was going to do the doors, trunk, and rear deck. Car feels like a tank and sounds pretty solid when you tap at it. I'm not going to tackle the floor unless I find I have to after the initial install is complete. I will definitely put my build up, I think we may be the only Volvo's on the board.


Going through your build thread to get some ideas, and all I can say is WOW! 

And you can add one more Volvo. I have a '98 V70 T5M (one of only 50 M cars imported to the USA).


----------



## Se7en

Trevor,

Any updates??? I'm looking forward to hearing your first impressions!


----------



## trevordj

Se7en said:


> Trevor,
> 
> Any updates??? I'm looking forward to hearing your first impressions!


I am actually working on it right now. Most of the weekend was a bust as I got caught up fixing a couple little things that took for bloody ever because I have bad luck/don't know when to leave well enough alone. It started with having to redo the CF on the GPS. Then I decided to tackle fixing a scratch on the plexiglass cover over my LCD display. 

I was too pissed/annoyed to take photos. Not every day is a success I suppose. 

Anyway, today I am working on organizing some wiring and will hopefully get the carpet and front seats in after pulling the center console (required to fit the carpet). After that, the rest of the week my energy will be put into moving or my wife is going to kill me. Next weekend I will have a nice, big, fancy, new garage to work in and I should be able to finish this project soon .


----------



## trevordj

Alright, I did make some progress today. First the bad news: 

Houston we have a problem










When I took out the center console to install the carpet, the mounting baffle for the center midbass pulled from the mounting location. To tell you the truth, I am glad it happened now rather than while I am driving down the street. It was an easy fix, but prevented me from finishing putting the carpet in and mounting the amplifiers permanently. 

I glued it together with superglue and then put 4+ layers of fiberglass around it for strength



















It is now very strong. I tried to pull the baffle off as hard as I could and it will not budge. Crisis over. 

I finished running the wiring to the front amps (ran out of black zip ties so I had to use white). 




























It is a tight fit



















I still have a few more zip ties to add in a few spots, but this is coming along. More to follow tomorrow...


----------



## trevordj

Big progress today: 

Buttoned up the wiring to the amplifiers for good. 

Passenger side










Driver side










Front carpet in and both amplifiers permanently mounted. 

Passenger side










Driver side










Center console in and driver seat in. Permanently. Sorry for the dark pics, it was, well, dark. 



















Tomorrow I have some trim to put in along with the passenger seat. One thing is for sure: this car is church quiet. 

This and yesterday's work represent 8 hours of work bringing the project total to 300 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## sydmonster

saved that centre console!


----------



## trevordj

sydmonster said:


> saved that centre console!


Yes! Thankfully I was able to salvage it, and it is very strong now. I'm glad it happened now, when I was taking the center console out anyway. I would have been pissed if it failed 2 weeks down the road after my seats were permanently mounted requiring me to take down my whole interior again. I used this as an opportunity to improve the foam backing on the trim piece as well, it looks a lot better than it did before (little things that only I obsess about).


----------



## dhershberger

I am simply in awe of some of the talent I see on these boards...


----------



## trevordj

dhershberger said:


> I am simply in awe of some of the talent I see on these boards...


Thank you much!


----------



## Lanson

dhershberger said:


> I am simply in awe of some of the talent I see on these boards...



Yeah its like in his past life he was a master car audio craftsman, and he's just tapping into that past knowledge. 

I love it.


----------



## dhershberger

fourthmeal said:


> Yeah its like in his past life he was a master car audio craftsman, and he's just tapping into that past knowledge.
> 
> I love it.


I really wish I could hire one of you guys to build a sub enclosure for my SUV.


----------



## Lanson

dhershberger said:


> I really wish I could hire one of you guys to build a sub enclosure for my SUV.


Hahah.


----------



## dhershberger

fourthmeal said:


> Hahah.


I include you in that group, too, fourthmeal; your work is superb. Ok, I didn't want to hijack this thread. Sorry everyone.


----------



## dohcser

nice details, makes the difference when you do it yourself and do it right.


----------



## trevordj

fourthmeal said:


> Yeah its like in his past life he was a master car audio craftsman, and he's just tapping into that past knowledge.
> 
> I love it.


Ha ha! I think you give me too much credit. If I were really any good at this stuff I would have been done 4 months ago :blush:



dhershberger said:


> I really wish I could hire one of you guys to build a sub enclosure for my SUV.


It's honestly a lot more fun just to go after it yourself. For one, you know every in and out of your installation. If that's not enough than its good for bragging rights . 



dohcser said:


> nice details, makes the difference when you do it yourself and do it right.


Precisely. Thank you!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

trevordj said:


>


I actually really like this photograph, with its low level lighting. It has a romance to it.

About your center console: I think the location and your incorporation into your (awesome) build is spot on. Love it. But I have a concern. I almost feel as though the factory console and your console should have been integrated together and became one unit. In a brainstorm, maybe grill cloth spanning from the side of your console and then stopping at the back on the OEM console?

Why?

For no other reason than you cannot see it, so it is not a temptation to a thief. Granted, the way you have it is not screaming "look at me" but it does say custom system to me. If not for the their issue, I would not change a thing about your build. If you are an amateur, I am Richard Nixon.


----------



## disturbedklownz

i wish i had the patients you guys do when doing these installs.nice work.:thumbsup:


----------



## trevordj

Alright, I got the rest of the interior in the car today in anticipation of moving. Some of the trim was really difficult to put in, but everything ended up fitting. 



















Sorry for the nasty lens flair, my camera is still at the repair shop




























I am not sure when I will get to the rear speakers, sub box, and amp rack but hopefully next weekend. Until then, we are moving into the new house. This represents 3 more hours of work taking the project total to 303 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> I actually really like this photograph, with its low level lighting. It has a romance to it.
> 
> About your center console: I think the location and your incorporation into your (awesome) build is spot on. Love it. But I have a concern. I almost feel as though the factory console and your console should have been integrated together and became one unit. In a brainstorm, maybe grill cloth spanning from the side of your console and then stopping at the back on the OEM console?
> 
> Why?
> 
> For no other reason than you cannot see it, so it is not a temptation to a thief. Granted, the way you have it is not screaming "look at me" but it does say custom system to me. If not for the their issue, I would not change a thing about your build. If you are an amateur, I am Richard Nixon.


That is actually a really good thought. I wrestled with the best way to mount the center midbass for several days before coming to my current design. 

It is kinda hard to explain, but I will try. There are a few problems with molding the midbass into the center console. Most of the revolve around how the center console mounts. There are two small screws that hold it in toward the front of the car and then two near the cubby at the rear. That would leave a whole bunch of plastic between for a big, beefy midbass to pound away on. Panel resonance would have been an isse unless I reinforced the whole of the panel. Further (and this is difficult to visualize), the center console has to be slid forward to mount two hidden screws for the floating center console. It then slides forward and has a plastic clip that holds it in place. To get around the limitations of how it mounts I would have still had to add some mounting points. The ones I used for the backing plate were out as the carpet has to be in before the center console. I would have been left trying to fabricate mounts or live with bolts sticking through the carpet. Essentially I would have been left in an impossible situation where the center console would need mounted before the carpet, but the carpet already needs to be mounted before the center console so it turned out they were mutually exclusive methods of tackling this. 

The final reason I didn't mold directly into the center console is I didn't want to be left refinishing the entire piece. It is such a large integral part of the car, I would have been left changing it, and hence changing the entire aesthetic of the car which, despite all the changes I have made, I really like. In the end I decided my custom footprint would have been more intrusive had I gone this route. 

Whew, that was long. I don't know if it makes sense. Really I just want to convey that a lot of thought went into the way I chose to mount it and I am very happy with the final result.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

It does make sense, so your effort to explain is not in vain. But I had a sudden design idea to help you and I feel like pulling up my 3d modeling program and showing you what I am thinking...

Oh but I want you to finish your build...so nevermind me. Maybe when you are done, I will share a sketch with you. I dont want to make you back peddle. And you know once the build is finish and all those hard hours are behind you...the inspiration to revisit just a part of it starts to fade away for some people (or they move onto a different car).


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> It does make sense, so your effort to explain is not in vain. But I had a sudden design idea to help you and I feel like pulling up my 3d modeling program and showing you what I am thinking...
> 
> Oh but I want you to finish your build...so nevermind me. Maybe when you are done, I will share a sketch with you. I dont want to make you back peddle. And you know once the build is finish and all those hard hours are behind you...the inspiration to revisit just a part of it starts to fade away for some people (or they move onto a different car).


I am more than willing to hear suggestions . I will admit that I will be pretty hesitant to change anything when it is all said and done though. One of my goals when starting this is to do it once and do it right. I really don't want to have a never ending project on my hands. I have a whole slew of external mods I would like to get to when the stereo is done.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I completely understand. I want to do a few things to my system now and I am just now getting around to auditioning some mid bass. My swap will be pretty painless and I am still having trouble getting motivated.

Your system looks incredible. Be proud...you did a fine, fine job. Just ignore me...I will go back to the TV room and play Pitfall on my Atari 2600.


----------



## CA4944

Personally, I think it would be a shame to give up the waterfall console design. It's such a distinctive element in the interior that I think I would miss it if it were mine. If anything, I might be tempted to darken the fabric a little (perhaps with some spray dye?) to hide it a little better. Then again, I have found that poly fabrics like that one tend to photograph unusually, so I may be making something of nothing.

Seeing it back together must be quite a thrill! Wonderful work, so far -- you've inspired me, and my build begins in earnest this weekend!


----------



## baschwar

Cool ride... sure would be nice to have the time to tear something up like that... ah... kids!


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> I completely understand. I want to do a few things to my system now and I am just now getting around to auditioning some mid bass. My swap will be pretty painless and I am still having trouble getting motivated.
> 
> Your system looks incredible. Be proud...you did a fine, fine job. Just ignore me...I will go back to the TV room and play Pitfall on my Atari 2600.


Ha ha! Hopefully the thing SOUNDS incredible as well. With the reviews the MS-8 has been getting, I have high hopes. 



CA4944 said:


> Personally, I think it would be a shame to give up the waterfall console design. It's such a distinctive element in the interior that I think I would miss it if it were mine. If anything, I might be tempted to darken the fabric a little (perhaps with some spray dye?) to hide it a little better. Then again, I have found that poly fabrics like that one tend to photograph unusually, so I may be making something of nothing.
> 
> Seeing it back together must be quite a thrill! Wonderful work, so far -- you've inspired me, and my build begins in earnest this weekend!


Nah, the fabric looks fabulous in the car. The grill cloth matches the off black stock material very well. Further, my center grill and a-pillars are covered in the same material. Having so many elements matching really pulls the interior together. 

I agree with your assessment of the floating console. I really like that aspect of this interior and am definitely glad I was able to retain it. 



baschwar said:


> Cool ride... sure would be nice to have the time to tear something up like that... ah... kids!


Indeed, my wife has been dropping the baby hints lately... I don't think I am ready yet :blush: give me another decade .


----------



## ARCuhTEK

There is no doubt the console design is unique. I certainly have never seen another car with the floating console. I also agree clogging it up with a speaker grill or box or whatever would kill it from a unique perspective. I think I just made something of nothing as well...I just had a brief vision of someone ripping his hard work to bits.

I am looking forward to the sub enclosure.


----------



## sydmonster

I see you! look at that L1se peeping through. Almost like a boobie down a shirt glimpse...











...ok, I know.


----------



## trevordj

Way you know you actually have a diagnosable illness when it comes to your obsession with car audio: 



sydmonster said:


> I see you! look at that L1se peeping through. Almost like a boobie down a shirt glimpse...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...ok, I know.


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## JayinMI

For some reason this made me think of Doug Stanhope's "T*ts are illegal" routine...

T*its are illegal (from about 5:20 on)

May be offensive...but I thought it was funny. Because it's the L1ProSE you aren't *supposed* to see 

Jay


----------



## miniSQ

its been 5 days........i'm jonesing.....


----------



## trevordj

miniSQ said:


> its been 5 days........i'm jonesing.....


Lol! The last week has been devoted to moving into the new house. The garage is still a bit of a disaster, but come hell or high water I am installing my rear speakers tomorrow and beginning work on the amp rack and sub box. Updates are a coming! 

I went to my upholstery supply store and picked up some backless carpet. Ended up going with Dorsett Eldorado in Dark Slate color. Damn near a perfect match for the factory carpet color. I also picked up a half sheet of 3/4" MDF and a full sheet of 1/2" Birch. I am ready!


----------



## Se7en

trevordj said:


> Lol! The last week has been devoted to moving into the new house. The garage is still a bit of a disaster, but come hell or high water I am installing my rear speakers tomorrow and beginning work on the amp rack and sub box. Updates are a coming!
> 
> I went to my upholstery supply store and picked up some backless carpet. Ended up going with Dorsett Eldorado in Dark Slate color. Damn near a perfect match for the factory carpet color. I also picked up a half sheet of 3/4" MDF and a full sheet of 1/2" Birch. I am ready!


This is not acceptable! We need a report!


----------



## trevordj

Se7en said:


> This is not acceptable! We need a report!


It is forthcoming my friend. Hopefully lots to report tomorrow.


----------



## miniSQ

some yummy baltic birch coming....


----------



## AdamTaylor

coming along beautifully wish i had a prime spot for a center like that!


----------



## JayGold

I'm keepin an eye on this build...


----------



## trevordj

Well, this weekend was completely unproductive. I don't know if it was the heat or the multitude of boxes in my garage. My motivation was at zero. I half ass started the rear speakers mounting; the baffles are done less cutting holes and aiming the tweeters. Mostly I did a whole lot of nothing though. I guess I just needed a bit of a break. 

In any case, the end is near and I need to finish this project in the next 2.5 weeks. After that my life will be taking a turn for the busy for the next 3 months. No pictures yet, sorry. I will snap some tonight when I get home and try to finish up the baffles.


----------



## Robin W.

trevordj said:


> Well, this weekend was completely unproductive. I don't know if it was the heat or the multitude of boxes in my garage. My motivation was at zero. I half ass started the rear speakers mounting; the baffles are done less cutting holes and aiming the tweeters. Mostly I did a whole lot of nothing though. I guess I just needed a bit of a break.
> 
> In any case, the end is near and I need to finish this project in the next 2.5 weeks. After that my life will be taking a turn for the busy for the next 3 months. No pictures yet, sorry. I will snap some tonight when I get home and try to finish up the baffles.


He's HUMAN!
I always wondered how you could be so productive all the time with updates etc.

Take a break and come back strong, I can't wait to see what you do in the back of the car.
Great work all around, so are you getting excited to hear it? The great thing is with the MS-8 you should have a good "tune" right away and won't have to play with it for months to make it sound good.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> He's HUMAN!
> I always wondered how you could be so productive all the time with updates etc.
> 
> Take a break and come back strong, I can't wait to see what you do in the back of the car.
> Great work all around, so are you getting excited to hear it? The great thing is with the MS-8 you should have a good "tune" right away and won't have to play with it for months to make it sound good.


Lol! Guilty as charged . 

I am getting VERY excited to hear the damn thing. I agree that it will be nice to have good tunes right out of the gate. I still think it would serve me well to "pay my dues" and learn how to tune properly, but I can do that with another project.


----------



## blazron22z

nice install keep up the good work


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Doggie wants a bone.....


----------



## trevordj

Alright, alright here is a quick update. 

I got the baffles cut out. They will be bolted to the stock location using stock bolts. 

Driver side

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9012/img3712wg.jpg

Passenger side










Because of the bracket for the stock amplifier on the passenger side, I had to route out some areas to get it sitting flush. The hole you see is for the passage of the stock amplifier wiring. I plan to stuff this with modeling clay and sandwich with a couple layers of damplifier on both sides to make an air tight seal. 










I cut some ring spacers for both the mids and the tweeters. 










I quickly free handed the circles in the baffle. The plan is to glue the spacers on and then use the flush trim bit to clean up the circles. 



















I glued the spacers on which I will let dry overnight using my super fancy clamp system










Tomorrow I will quickly glass the tweeter rings in place (I want to aim at the opposite listener) followed by a quick coat of primer and black paint. 

That is it for now. This represents 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 307 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Doggie wants a bone.....


i mailed you one eta 6-16


----------



## Mr. Steney

I never thought I'd want a Volvo. I do now! Is yours for sale?


----------



## trevordj

Mr. Steney said:


> I never thought I'd want a Volvo. I do now! Is yours for sale?


Anything is for sale for the right price . Great cars though. I really have no regrets with my purchase.


----------



## trevordj

I have been burning the midnight oil tonight. Here is my progress from the last couple days: 

I dragged out the flush trim bit to trim the baffles I had rough cut










Test fit










Holy baffles 



















I had to fabricate a mount for the Dyn tweeters





































Tweeter ring aimed and attached. Bulldog bomb


----------



## trevordj

Spandex was attached. I I will add fiberglass to strengthen the tweeter mount and be sure the baffle is air tight. 










After a few layers of glass, not the best glass job in the world :blush:










test fit










Sprayed with undercoating










One more test fit










Crossovers bolted in place. The passenger side crossover BARELY fits between the baffle and stock amp bracket. Getting it in the exact right spot involved a lot of trial and error










That is it for now. Any takers on what I am about to say next? Yep, this took ALOT longer than I thought it would. I will wire them up in the morning and get them bolted in the car. 

I am hoping to get some good progress on the amp rack/sub box tomorrow. 

This represents a total of 13 hours bringing the project total to 320 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

amitaF said:


> i mailed you one eta 6-16


OH BOY SCOOBY!


----------



## Se7en

I got to see Trevor's car in person today and it looks awesome! Way better in person than the pics would indicate.

Trevor, it was great meeting you and thanks for your hospitality!

Now hurry up and get this thing playing music!!!


----------



## JayinMI

Hey Se7en, if your avatar is your new place, I have to say I liked the old digs better 

Jay


----------



## trevordj

Se7en said:


> I got to see Trevor's car in person today and it looks awesome! Way better in person than the pics would indicate.
> 
> Trevor, it was great meeting you and thanks for your hospitality!
> 
> Now hurry up and get this thing playing music!!!


The pleasure was all mine (well, mine and my dog's )! Your car kicks absolute ass in every respect. 

We will plan another GTG soon when my project is done. Hopefully VERY soon .


----------



## trevordj

A pointless picture of my dog because he is awesome










Progress: 

The passenger rear speaker setup was proving to be a real pain in the arse, so this ended up taking about 14 hours longer than it should. Oh well, the build moves forward. 

I got the crossover and speakers wired up after the usual treatments. 




























The problem presented itself after installing the crossover and wiring. I bolted the baffle in place and ended up snapping a mounting point off. Between the thickness of the wood and the PITA stock amplifier bracket, I couldn't get it to work. Soooo, I drilled out all of the mounting points with a hole saw and used fiberglass to fashion some mounting feet for the baffle. I glassed around the entire perimeter to be sure I could get a proper seal. 

Here is the end result










Treated the speakers wires to the crossovers in the usual fashion and hooked everything up










Tapped into the factory remote and made remote wires going to the MS-8 and back to the OEM amp. 










Tapped into the factory amp front speaker output to feed the MS-8 hi level inputs (I forgot to take a photo of the speaker wire close up).

Here is everything hooked up and the passenger rear baffle in place. I treated the factory amp bracket with a good amount of modeling clay between it and the panel to prevent rattles and to seal it against the quarter panel (and sealed against the baffle, the stock amp bracket is sandwiched between). I then ran speaker gasket tape around. 

I lined the hole for the wiring with speaker gasket tape. I also fit a whole bunch of damplifier on the backside of the hole. After bolting the baffle in place, I then stuffed it with modeling clay and sandwiched it with more deadener on the outside. It is very well sealed. 










The driver side needed no additional fabrication and bolted in place with ease.










Here are all the wires going to my hatch (minus power) that I will have to tame. 










I made a template for the base of the amplifier rack out of cardboard. I was going to begin fabrication of that tonight, but I hurt my back and can do nothing but enjoy vicodin and lay flat. Hopefully it will feel better tomorrow, I want to really hit this hard this weekend.

That is it for now. This represents 14 hours of work bringing the project total to 334 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

JayinMI said:


> For some reason this made me think of Doug Stanhope's "T*ts are illegal" routine...
> 
> T*its are illegal (from about 5:20 on)
> 
> May be offensive...but I thought it was funny. Because it's the L1ProSE you aren't *supposed* to see
> 
> Jay


I keep forgetting to say, that may be offensive, but it is damn hilarious. I think good stand up is one of the few things I enjoy more than good music .


----------



## Knobby Digital

Cute dog.

Your plate reminds me of:










And on that note, those new TX plates are hideous. I hated when they went to the one w/ the cowboy and shuttle and all that, and they're going further down the drain. I missed my old one that just read "TEXAS" on top in block letters.


----------



## trevordj

Knobby Digital said:


> Cute dog.
> 
> Your plate reminds me of:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And on that note, those new TX plates are hideous. I hated when they went to the one w/ the cowboy and shuttle and all that, and they're going further down the drain. I missed my old one that just read "TEXAS" on top in block letters.


Amen, I hate those license plates more than anything. Such an eyesore. Apparently you can still get the plain ones that just say Texas, but they cost extra. I think when my tags are up for renewal I will get them...


----------



## sydmonster

I see/read some one got a garage...


...full of boxes.

Still looking at this wicked build.


----------



## trevordj

Well, I got a lot done today, although I don't have a lot to show for it. I do have a solid vision of how I will assemble the subwoofer box(es as it turns out) and amplifier rack. 

Work started on the subwoofer boxes today. It is hard to explain, but there is a section recessed in the rear corners of the car where a small shelf supports the stock trim. Because of this, trying to avoid having a monstrosity of a box that would be difficult to remove and risk scratching panels as I put it in, There will be two sub boxes side by side joined with brackets. 



















The arrows show where I will have to add "shelves" to support the stock panels. This is actually a blessing in disguise as I will be able to build the sub boxes with less height as I can get an extra little bit of air space by integrating the box into these corners. I am set to lay some glass tomorrow. I will also be glassing some mounting feet utilizing 5 stock welded screws already in the the car. 

Everything all prepped and ready for glass tomorrow




























I cut all the wood for the sub boxes, first my fancy router fence because I am currently too poor to purchase a table saw. 



















The bottom of the sub boxes had holes cut so I can fab some mounting feet as I mentioned above. I also had to add some feet in the center so they sit level. 



















All the wood cut, some of this will be trimmed to fit around the factory panels as I add glass, but it is a start










That is it for now. This represents 12 hours of work bringing the project total to 348 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

sydmonster said:


> I see/read some one got a garage...
> 
> 
> ...full of boxes.
> 
> Still looking at this wicked build.


Yes! I am loving my new garage. After I finish the car I will be building a kick ass work bench and get some proper storage so it doesn't look a nightmare as my old garage did. Still lots of boxes though. Glad you are still hanging in with the build. It will be done SOON.


----------



## trevordj

Today was a full day of laying fiberglass. I worked for 10 hours hoping to finish all the glass before assembling the sub box, but it didn't happen. I want to make sure the side panels are very strong as they will be part of the box so I still have a few more layers to add. On to the pics: 

Glass ready for resin in the corners. 



















Since this is my first time glassing anything larger than my a-pillars, I learned a trick; for a large area such as this, I cut large pieces for the center of the flat spaces and then followed with loose fiber strands for all the corners and edges. The benefits are it soaked up all the extra resin that inevitably accumulates in the corners and it was much easier to lay down then trying to cut pieces that fit. As I have become more comfortable with glassing, I find I am using loose strand more and more often. 

After the first layers in the corners and the footings





































The footings done and being removed










The side panels out after 6 layers of 3/4 oz. They still need 4 more layers but I ran out of resin. I will head to the auto parts store to try out some Evercoat resin. Since I can get it locally, I will use it if it is as nice to work with as the US composites stuff. 

Finally, a test fit of the bottoms of the sub boxes in the car after the glued spacers from yesterday and some work with the hand planer. They now sit perfectly level. 










That is it for now. This represents 10 hours of work bringing the project total to 358 hours. I was hoping to have this project done this weekend, but alas, not even close. Oh well, work shall continue. Thanks for looking!


----------



## BLD MOVS

I love watching this build.


----------



## mattyjman

trevor, i didn't realize this for the first few projects that i completed with fiberglass, but the workability of the chop-mat increases if you don't cut, but rather tear the pieces to size. this leaves the edges more room to move if necessary around bends and corners as you are laying down the resin... just a tip that i learned... 

everything else is looking great so far. i can't wait to see what the end results are, but i'm sure that your interest is much greater than mine  keep up the nice tidy work


----------



## trevordj

mattyjman said:


> trevor, i didn't realize this for the first few projects that i completed with fiberglass, but the workability of the chop-mat increases if you don't cut, but rather tear the pieces to size. this leaves the edges more room to move if necessary around bends and corners as you are laying down the resin... just a tip that i learned...
> 
> everything else is looking great so far. i can't wait to see what the end results are, but i'm sure that your interest is much greater than mine  keep up the nice tidy work


I have found the exact same thing. In fact, when I referred to using loose fiber, the way I am getting that is just by tearing a large piece of chop-mat into the smallest pieces I can. As you mentioned, the torn pieces are infintely easier to form than small pieces that have been cut. Maybe I will take it a step further and try tearing the large pieces to form around the corners. 

Thanks! I want the project to be done, not because I mind the work but because I want to hear the damn thing.


----------



## trevordj

BLD MOVS said:


> I love watching this build.


Thank you! I am glad you are still hanging in there with me.


----------



## IBcivic

the silent lurker,here....

i hope i get something near san antonio , soon...i'd love to hear this beast of a build in person


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> the silent lurker,here....


Better than the silent but deadly lurker :laugh::laugh::laugh:



amitaF said:


> i hope i get something near san antonio , soon...i'd love to hear this beast of a build in person


Thank you! I would always be happy to oblige (accompanied with a cold beer/soda to boot).


----------



## Robin W.

Hey Trevor, I'm still enjoying the progress. Great work as always, I love the creative ways you find to install everything. I don't think there is anyone here that would guess your not a seasoned installer.

I can see the MLV in your hatch area, a great way to bond two pieces together is HH-66 as recommended in tons of places. I used it in my truck and it's amazing stuff. 

I can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## trevordj

Robin W. said:


> Hey Trevor, I'm still enjoying the progress. Great work as always, I love the creative ways you find to install everything. I don't think there is anyone here that would guess your not a seasoned installer.
> 
> I can see the MLV in your hatch area, a great way to bond two pieces together is HH-66 as recommended in tons of places. I used it in my truck and it's amazing stuff.
> 
> I can't wait to see the finished product.


Thanks Robin! Good to know with the MLV adhesive. I may have to give that a shot. 

By the way, I may need to enlist your help modifying my arc KS 1000.1 BX to bypass the BX section. I just learned that if the knob isn't plugged in then the bass boost is by default maxed out. Hopefully you won't mind if I send you pictures before I do anything to make sure I don't ruin my amp .


----------



## trevordj

Well ****! Nevermind Robin, see problem here.


----------



## Robin W.

trevordj said:


> Thanks Robin! Good to know with the MLV adhesive. I may have to give that a shot.
> 
> By the way, I may need to enlist your help modifying my arc KS 1000.1 BX to bypass the BX section. I just learned that if the knob isn't plugged in then the bass boost is by default maxed out. Hopefully you won't mind if I send you pictures before I do anything to make sure I don't ruin my amp .


Not a problem, it should be similar to the other KS series, the 300.2 and 300.4 are virtually identical in the preamp section.

Do you want to bypass the whole crossover section? (this would be the simplest)

If you could get some nice closeups of the area behind the rca connectors, along with the other corner where the phase switch is I can compare it to what I've seen already.


----------



## Robin W.

trevordj said:


> Well ****! Nevermind Robin, see problem here.


Crappy, I'll look closer at the other thread and reply.


----------



## trevordj

Well, I went to the auto body supply store today and they only had Evercoat finishing resin (with wax), they didn't have any of the laminating resin. Soooo I put in an order with US composites and the build will be on hold until I receive it. I should be able to get a little more work done on the sub boxes until then, but won't be able to finish them until I get more resin. 

The amplifier situation, while ****ty, will not really slow up the build. Hopefully arc's turn around time is reasonably fast. 



Robin W. said:


> Crappy, I'll look closer at the other thread and reply.


Thanks for the help Robin!


----------



## rockondon

Probably a good thing you are waiting and getting more of the USC resin.
I have used the cheaper stuff.[still do sometimes] 
But the better stuff like USC is more consistent and generally easier to work with. 

BTW nice build so far.


----------



## trevordj

rockondon said:


> Probably a good thing you are waiting and getting more of the USC resin.
> I have used the cheaper stuff.[still do sometimes]
> But the better stuff like USC is more consistent and generally easier to work with.
> 
> BTW nice build so far.


I think you are right. The evercoat stuff is nice I am sure, but the fact that they only had the finishing resin already mixed with wax was a deal breaker. The time I spend waiting for the USC stuff will be more than made up by the fact that I won't have to sand between every coat of resin. Now I will just be patient.


----------



## trevordj

I decided to get the amplifier fixed. I sent it off to Arc today and, while it is there, they are going to perform the modification bypassing the remote input so my amplifier isn't stuck at 20db bass boost at all times. 

More being patient...


----------



## Duncan345

This is *killing* me. This thread is the only thing that I check daily from DIYMA.


----------



## trevordj

^My work schedule has just gotten much busier for the next 3 months :thumbsdown:. I thought I was going to get a bunch done this last weekend but ended up having guests for the holiday. The good news is I got my home theater setup finished, but got very little work done on the car. I have a 50/50 chance of having the upcoming weekend off. If so, I will get some work done then and *ahem* maybe finish this damn thing one day .


----------



## Duncan345

I'm sure your work schedule is rough. I'm in law school but I have several friends working on their med school internships. They easily spend twice as much time working as I do studying/going to class. I'm actually working on a cheap race car right now, but it doesn't have any audio gear so I don't post it here.

Technically it did have some audio gear... here is part of what we stripped out of the interior.


----------



## n_olympios

I'm surprised I'd managed to miss this thread so far! It's been a very interesting read, I'm eager to see the rest!


----------



## digitalsolo

Great thread, I appreciate the attention to detail not only in the work itself, but the documentation. I fear I lack the patience to document so thoroughly whilst mid-project; it's nice to see all the small details like this.

Great work sir!


----------



## Jaloosk

Mad skills Trevor. Wow.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks guys! I found out I have this weekend off for sure. I am going balls out and going to try to finish this damn thing!


----------



## Duncan345

trevordj said:


> Thanks guys! I found out I have this weekend off for sure. I am going balls out and going to try to finish this damn thing!


That's awesome! I'm excited to see some progress but I know you won't rush it just to get done this weekend, unless everything is perfect.

Good luck and have fun!


----------



## 2167

Next episode?


----------



## nathanz

2167 said:


> Next episode?


Dude - you teased me. I saw the email and got all excited to see finished pics LOL!


----------



## trevordj

Alright guys, sorry for the delay. Of course I didn't finish the project but I have an update nonetheless. 

Last weekend I pulled my front seats to replace the RCA connectors. I had the Neutriks installed which never quite sat well with me. I was never impressed with them and couldn't ever figure out how to work the cheap plastic strain relief. Further, space was at a minimum so I ordered some switchcraft right angle connectors and made the change. 



















The old connector










Soldered










Fits in the tight recess under the seat much better


----------



## trevordj

On to the new stuff: 

I started by attaching the fiberglass footings I previously made to the base of the sub boxes with wooden dowels



















After at least 10 layers worth of glass, I decided to also hit the underside of the box just to be sure they are strong and air tight



















Sidebar: I am using a fresh gallon of US composites B440 premium layup resin. I remember it being blue but not electric blue as it is now. It still has excellent pot life and is generally a pleasure to work with, no changes other than the color that I can tell

Started assembling the box, this is the only side that will not require any modifications. 










Everything is screwed and glued with all screw holes counter sunk. 










Test fit in the car










Now with the molded sides of the box


----------



## trevordj

Sides of the box temporarily attached with CA glue and wooden stir sticks



















The other sides attached










Another test fit making sure it works with the stock panels










Glassing the box to fit with the stock panel










That is where the box sits for now. I will let that sit overnight and cure good and proper. In the next couple days I will finish up this sub box and treat the other one the same. I will then begin working on the amplifier rack. 

This represents 14 hours of work bringing the project total to 372 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

Duncan345 said:


> I'm sure your work schedule is rough. I'm in law school but I have several friends working on their med school internships. They easily spend twice as much time working as I do studying/going to class. I'm actually working on a cheap race car right now, but it doesn't have any audio gear so I don't post it here.
> 
> Technically it did have some audio gear... here is part of what we stripped out of the interior.


Sorry I missed these posts. I must have been asleep at the wheel . That is quite the, um, setup. Pretty sweet you are working on a race car though! What kinda car is it? What kind of racing are you doing? Good luck with law school! I have several friends who are lawyers, sometimes I think I may go to law school after I finish residency... probably not though . 



n_olympios said:


> I'm surprised I'd managed to miss this thread so far! It's been a very interesting read, I'm eager to see the rest!


Thanks man! Glad to have you on board.


----------



## trevordj

I am in the middle of a 19 day stretch at work without a day off so I haven't gotten much done. I was able to get a bit of work done today though: 

Strengthened the fiberglass panel; about ten layers total










trimmed










I glassed the molded side piece to the box and added a side panel attaching with glue, screws and duraglas;



















Attached the side panel to the box with some glass as well










That is it for now. The boxes will hopefully be done soon . 

This represents 5 hours of work bringing the project total to 377 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Duncan345

trevordj said:


> Sorry I missed these posts. I must have been asleep at the wheel . That is quite the, um, setup. Pretty sweet you are working on a race car though! What kinda car is it? What kind of racing are you doing? Good luck with law school! I have several friends who are lawyers, sometimes I think I may go to law school after I finish residency... probably not though .


It's a 1986 VW GTI. The race series is a road course endurance race for cars that cost $500 or less. You have to buy, repair, and modify the car for less than $500 (excluding the cost of safety gear). It's called the 24 Hours of LeMons.

The car was in pretty rough shape when we got it. It still is actually... I haven't worked on it much. It has been parked out in the weather for about 3 years and it doesn't run yet. We plan to make a documentary about our experience with it and enter it in a local film festival.

Glad to see you are making some progress again! Maybe when your 19 straight days of work are over you'll have your amp back from Arc.


----------



## AdamTaylor

finish this Trevor and then drive over to Florida so i can hear this damn thing.... hey, worth a try


----------



## BLD MOVS

AdamTaylor said:


> finish this Trevor and then drive over to Florida so i can hear this damn thing.... hey, worth a try


And then to Omaha


----------



## trevordj

AdamTaylor said:


> finish this Trevor and then drive over to Florida so i can hear this damn thing.... hey, worth a try





BLD MOVS said:


> And then to Omaha


Done and done! Now I just need to figure out how to convince my residency program to give me time off for a U.S. tour. t'would be sweet though!


----------



## Robin W.

Don't forget Canada!


----------



## RattyMcClelland

Comming on very well.


----------



## eviling

I had a hard on, the entire duration of reading this thread, well done, pure pron


----------



## trevordj

Thanks for the compliments gentlemen! I suppose an explanation for the lack of updates is in order. Sort of a combination of going on vacay last week and this:










Yep, hot. 

Another side note, I got my garage cleaned up from the move (it kinda became the repository for everything that didn't have a place there for awhile). I have all the room in the world now










Also, I got my DSLR back from the repair shop . 

Okay, enough yappin, I FINALLY got some work done today. 

Here is how the driver side box sat after some work I did over the past week. I didn't get any photos of a couple pieces of wood I cut out an added (well I thought I did but apparently they are missing :shrug





































I cut out the roof of the portion of the box behind the wheel well


----------



## trevordj

The wood piece was duraglased in place










10 layers of 3/4 oz fiberglass was applied over the top for strengthening





































The baffle was cut and partially screwed in place










Some of my edges were less than perfect; nothing a little sanding couldn't take care of. 










The hole for the SI BM was cut



















The speaker fits well


----------



## trevordj

The baffle was glued and screwed. Tape was laid down with plan to add fiberglass from the inside of the box to bridge the gap










Glass in place along with a layer of duraglas and finished with some rage gold





































Looking into the box showing how the main box communicates with the additional space behind the wheel well. 










Test fit in the car. It fits perfectly with the rear quarter trim



















That is it for now. This, combined with the little work I did throughout the last 2 weeks represents 12 hours of work bringing the project total to 389 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

More progress today:

If you will recall, this is how the passenger side box was last time I worked on it: 










I didn't take as many pictures for this side as it is really just a similar process as the driver side box. I did do a few things in a different order given some lessons I learned. 

The perspective is kinda hard to see in this pic, but I basically trimmed both the front and back of the molded portion behind the wheel well










Pieces of wood duraglassed and fiberglassed in place for strength



















More glass and trimmed (10 layers minimum total). This thing is strong




























Panels in the car taped and prepped with mold release










Six layers (minimum) 3/4 glass chopped mat down










That is it for today. This represents 8 hours of work bringing the project total to 397 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## n_olympios

Nearly 400 hours of well spent time, that's impressive.


----------



## trevordj

mattyjman said:


> trevor, i didn't realize this for the first few projects that i completed with fiberglass, but the workability of the chop-mat increases if you don't cut, but rather tear the pieces to size. this leaves the edges more room to move if necessary around bends and corners as you are laying down the resin... just a tip that i learned...
> 
> everything else is looking great so far. i can't wait to see what the end results are, but i'm sure that your interest is much greater than mine  keep up the nice tidy work


Matty, I have been meaning to say thank you for this tip for a while now. Ever since you recommended this I have been tearing the chopped mat and it is infinitely easier to work with. It is the little, simple things like this that I have picked up that really make all of this documentation worth it. Cheers!


----------



## trevordj

n_olympios said:


> Nearly 400 hours of well spent time, that's impressive.


Thanks Nick! 'tis a labor of love with an end closer and closer in sight. It definitely felt nice to get a full weekend of work in after the last few stagnant weeks.


----------



## trevordj

I'm on fire! Three days in a row with updates. 

More work on the passenger side subwoofer box. By the by, I don't think I ever mentioned why I am building two boxes. This is a direct result of my wanting to mold the box behind the wheel wells AND still be able to remove it from the car without destroying it. I thought molding the box into the hatch was an important step as a) it allows greater box volume without increased height and b) It secures the box in the car with an added bonus of safety (it won't be rolling around the hatch). The boxes will be held together with a bracket. 

The molded fiberglass was detached from the interior. 










Trimmed










Wood sides cut. Glued, screwed, and duraglassed in place



















Glassed over the wood sides inside and out. ~5 layers on both sides. 



















I also cut a template out of cardboard to form the roof over the wheel well portion of the box. I am on call tomorrow (hence no work likely) but in the next few days I will cut that piece and the baffle and get this box finished up. Then I will be adding the speaker wire terminals, drilling the baffles, and mounting the subs. Then it is just amp rack, beauty panel, and top cover . 

This represents 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 401 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## n_olympios

I can't help but think the following: since it's such a difficult shape to replicate, how come you didn't use glass fibre all the way (just with more layers) but keep working with wood? Wouldn't it be easier to just lay the FG and attack it with the catalyte?


----------



## sydmonster

Elaborate work there, and very thorough.


----------



## trevordj

n_olympios said:


> I can't help but think the following: since it's such a difficult shape to replicate, how come you didn't use glass fibre all the way (just with more layers) but keep working with wood? Wouldn't it be easier to just lay the FG and attack it with the catalyte?


Ya, that definitely would have been easier. I don't really have a good reason why I didn't do it like that :blush:. I am about out of 3/4 oz chopped mat so, um ya that's the reason . Live and learn I suppose. This is the first subwoofer box I have ever built completely by myself so it is a very steep learning curve. Thanks for the feedback! Keep it coming.


----------



## n_olympios

Hey, it's very good for a first time, I just said that because it would be much easier (not too mention lighter, probably). 

I made a FG box build tutorial a few years ago, it might've come in handy (although there are lots out there, most better than mine as well hehe).


----------



## trevordj

n_olympios said:


> Hey, it's very good for a first time, I just said that because it would be much easier (not too mention lighter, probably).
> 
> I made a FG box build tutorial a few years ago, it might've come in handy (although there are lots out there, most better than mine as well hehe).


The process itself definitely wasn't a barrier. I have been scouring the tutorials and builds over on fiberglassforums.com for at least the last year. I suppose a more "I was actually thinking" response would be that I knew I wanted the base and baffle of the box to be 3/4" wood as they are long and flat. It would have taken too much glass to build these areas up to the strength of wood. The rest of the process I has been a) molding the box to fit flush with the stock carpeted panel, b) forming the area behind the wheel well to get some extra air space, and c) filling in the holes between the easiest way I could. The great part is that I have learned a ton in the process the most important being I am much, much more comfortable working with fiberglass now.


----------



## 12v Electronics

Lookin' good Trevor!


----------



## Geordie68

Amazing job. Enjoying the progress.

For some reason only about 1/3 of your photos from the last several pages open up for me. Anyone out there have an idea if it could be some issue with the settings on my computer or maybe my settings for this website? I don't have the same problem on other build logs. Anyone else have the same issue?


----------



## trevordj

12v Electronics said:


> Lookin' good Trevor!


Thanks a million Tom! Those HAT L1 Pro SEs are meant to be the visual (and sonic hopefully) focal point of the entire system. They look damn fine in those sail panels . I can't wait to fire 'em up. 



Geordie68 said:


> Amazing job. Enjoying the progress.
> 
> For some reason only about 1/3 of your photos from the last several pages open up for me. Anyone out there have an idea if it could be some issue with the settings on my computer or maybe my settings for this website? I don't have the same problem on other build logs. Anyone else have the same issue?


Thanks for the compliment! I am not finding any issues with the photos either here or with the computers at my job. Not sure what the issue is there. I will say that it is likely imageshack, their hosting service is a bit spotty at times. Maybe try to clear your cache and try again.


----------



## n_olympios

I've had that too. It's just too many pics and they keep timing out. A page refresh or two should normally show them all.


----------



## trevordj

Haha! Maybe thats a sign I should tone it down a notch with the photogs .


----------



## Geordie68

trevordj said:


> Haha! Maybe thats a sign I should tone it down a notch with the photogs .


Nooooooo. I'll just try refreshing the pages a few times. Actually I tried my home pc and can see them fine on it; must be something about my work computer.


----------



## n_olympios

trevordj said:


> Haha! Maybe thats a sign I should tone it down a notch with the photogs .


Don't you dare mister. You owe it to your people. :laugh:


----------



## Duncan345

Looks like someone found their motivation. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Duncan! Not so much that I found motivation, just time. I am still on a busy orthopedics service right now taking call every 3rd night. We have just been a little slower the last few days so I was able to get some work in. This weekend is out as I will be working all three days however .


----------



## Installer4life

Nice work Trevor. I love to see people take on a challange. Your coming up on a 1/4 years man hours if you consider that most people work 40 hours a week or 2080 hours a year. I hope everything turns out like you expect and I am definately interested in seeing the final product.


----------



## trevordj

Installer4life said:


> Nice work Trevor. I love to see people take on a challange. Your coming up on a 1/4 years man hours if you consider that most people work 40 hours a week or 2080 hours a year. I hope everything turns out like you expect and I am definately interested in seeing the final product.


Thanks man, I 'preciate it! I had never thoughout about the time in that regard, actually there have been times where I thought this project was moving way too slow. From this perspective, it actually makes me think that my pace is ok... I put in 60-80 hours/week at my real job and still have been able to tack on 1/4 years man hours in 6 months time. Looking at it like that makes it sound like I'm not such a slacker . 

It is still humbling to think that Scott Buwalda's SBN record breaking car has over 10,000 man hours in it. This is but a hiccup compared to builds like that :blush:.


----------



## Installer4life

10,000 hours, really. Of course thats the entire car not just the audio, I hope. I have the Hybrid L6 and L1 Pro tweeters sitting in my closet. I'm a little north of you, Frisco, waiting for the temp to cool down to start my install. Its a small system with the Hybrids (active), Jl Audio 900/5, Jl Audio 8W7, and a Alpine CDA9887. Thats about all I want. I hope to start on it within the next two weeks. At one time I could take the heat but after a couple of surgery's earlier this year its just not going to happen. Thats one thing about your build is that its in Texas in the summer. Some of your hours should count as 1.5 hours because of the heat. Take care, keep us posted..


----------



## trevordj

Alright, more work on the passenger sub box today. 

I cut a piece of wood to act as the roof over the part of the box behind the wheel well. I then secured it with duraglas and strengthened with lots o' fiberglass inside and out (10 layers inside, 5 layers outside) to be sure all the seams are sealed










It looks like this is a bubble, but I promise it isn't. It is just is the color difference between a duraglassed area and a clear area










trimmed



















trimmed some more










baffle cut, screwed and glued










speaker hole cut










test fit










... and in the car



















Tomorrow I will glass the gap between the baffle and curved edge then finish with filler as I did on the driver side. 

That is it for today. This represents 4 hours of work bringing the project total to 405 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

Sidebar: 

I set up a little 2 channel system out in the garage a few days ago. It makes the heat a little more tolerable somehow. 





































Cheers!


----------



## trevordj

Installer4life said:


> 10,000 hours, really. Of course thats the entire car not just the audio, I hope. I have the Hybrid L6 and L1 Pro tweeters sitting in my closet. I'm a little north of you, Frisco, waiting for the temp to cool down to start my install. Its a small system with the Hybrids (active), Jl Audio 900/5, Jl Audio 8W7, and a Alpine CDA9887. Thats about all I want. I hope to start on it within the next two weeks. At one time I could take the heat but after a couple of surgery's earlier this year its just not going to happen. Thats one thing about your build is that its in Texas in the summer. Some of your hours should count as 1.5 hours because of the heat. Take care, keep us posted..


Well good luck with your project, it sounds awesome! In fact it is almost identical to a setup I was going to put in my wife's car. I can't wait to see your work. Hopefully you are more motivated in this heat than I am. It is absolutely grueling out there right now .


----------



## trevordj

More work today. 

I sealed the gap between the baffle and the molded curve. This was followed by Duraglass










The duraglassed edge was finished with some Rage Gold and rough sanded. The area around the speaker cutouts were painted black in case anything shows through the beauty panel. The baffles were drilled




























I drilled both boxes for the binding posts. I realized I only have one set so I had to order another pair so the other box will have to wait. 



















Hurricane nuts were screwed and glued in place (after the fiasco with the center channel I don't trust them so I figure a little glue can't hurt. 



















The boxes were lined with fiberglass insulation per Nick's recommendation at Stereo Integrity


----------



## trevordj

The boxes were then stuffed with about 1/4 pound of polyfill each



















Changing gears, in anticipation of the sub boxes and amp rack being mounted in the near future, I lined the whole of the hatch with batting stuffing every crevice as full as I could. Yep, more sound deadening . I will be making my way through the entire car stuffing this behind every panel and in every nook and cranny. 




























That is it for today. This represents 7 hours of work bringing the project total to 412 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## 2167

Not to question your skills, but did you leak test that box(es)? I've had a few boxes (part mdf part FG) that have a few pin hole leaks here and there.
Build is still cool i look forward to it


----------



## trevordj

2167 said:


> Not to question your skills, but did you leak test that box(es)? I've had a few boxes (part mdf part FG) that have a few pin hole leaks here and there.
> Build is still cool i look forward to it


I haven't tested them at this point as they are not yet permanently installed. It will have a leak where it bolts to the floor as I haven't sealed it with silicone yet. I have been very careful at the interfaces between wood and fiberglass generally attaching with duraglass followed by fiberglass on both sides of each seam (at least 10 layers generally). I have also screwed and glued all the seams I can followed by soaking with styrene thinned resin. I can't see anywhere where it would leak at this point however the moment of truth will come when I bolt the subs in. 

I don't know of any other way to test them than bolting the sub in and pushing on the cone do you? If so, I am all ears as I would love to make sure they are 100% sealed. Thanks for the question!


----------



## Duncan345

More sound deadening?! I don't know if I am more curious to hear this thing with the stereo on or off. It must be nearly silent inside.


----------



## trevordj

Duncan345 said:


> More sound deadening?! I don't know if I am more curious to hear this thing with the stereo on or off. It must be nearly silent inside.


Hehehe. I didn't actually plan on this portion of the sound deadening but after reading that several others here have had success using this stuff I figured it wouldn't be hard to put some down. If anything it will prevent any rattles between the sub box and the sides of the car. 

I will also be stuffing the dash the door panel and the rear quarter panels with this stuff.


----------



## n_olympios

Great stuff! 

Are you sure the stock panels will fit on top of all that puffy soundproofing?


----------



## X-runner

Great looking Volvo! I've liked them since they hit the streets. How do you like the Arc KS amps. I have two ks300.4 just sitting around being neglected. Im too lazy to put them back on my Dyn stuff to try out agin. 

Keep up the good work.


----------



## 2167

trevordj said:


> I haven't tested them at this point as they are not yet permanently installed. It will have a leak where it bolts to the floor as I haven't sealed it with silicone yet. I have been very careful at the interfaces between wood and fiberglass generally attaching with duraglass followed by fiberglass on both sides of each seam (at least 10 layers generally). I have also screwed and glued all the seams I can followed by soaking with styrene thinned resin. I can't see anywhere where it would leak at this point however the moment of truth will come when I bolt the subs in.
> 
> I don't know of any other way to test them than bolting the sub in and pushing on the cone do you? If so, I am all ears as I would love to make sure they are 100% sealed. Thanks for the question!


The last one i leak tested with the woofer resulted in a cracked dust cover but since the BMI's dont have dust covers you should be ok

Your build method sounds sound, but does it sound sound? LoL

I think my troubles were with dry spots but i appears you should be ok with 10+ layers. 
Keep up the great work.
I'm waiting on the the next installment


----------



## 12v Electronics

trevordj said:


> Thanks a million Tom! Those HAT L1 Pro SEs are meant to be the visual (and sonic hopefully) focal point of the entire system. They look damn fine in those sail panels . I can't wait to fire 'em up.


No problem! I'm sorry I was not here earlier. - like 25 pages earlier 

That seems like a lot of fill in those sub enclosures. I know they are a bit small volume wise, but do they really require that much stuffing?


----------



## trevordj

12v Electronics said:


> No problem! I'm sorry I was not here earlier. - like 25 pages earlier
> 
> That seems like a lot of fill in those sub enclosures. I know they are a bit small volume wise, but do they really require that much stuffing?


You know what, I am glad you mentioned that as I went back and forth myself with this several times. I remembered reading that nick from SI recommended lining the box with fiberglass insulation AND polyfill here: 



Electrodynamic said:


> The test box that I built was 0.46 ft^3 sealed before the driver was placed in it, but I used fiberglass insulation and polyfill to make up for the lack of actual internal volume and it worked nicely. So as long as you keep the enclosure between 0.46 and 0.55 ft^3, you'll be fine. Well, with stuffing, that is. We *always* recommend stuffing the inside of your enclosure - preferably with fiberglass insulation _and_ polyfill.


Based on the audiojunkies "ultimate polyfill subwoofer enclosure resource" usually a box this size would need 3/4 pound polyfill (0.5cu foot box @ 1.5 pounds polyfill/cu.foot) but because I used the fiberglass insulation I reduced that to 1/4 pound polyfill. It was kind of a guess but at least a 1/2 educated one . I may end up playing with the stuffing a bit after I get the system up and running to see what kinda difference it makes.


----------



## trevordj

A quick update from today: 

I realized I never went through and cleaned up the heat shrink I left under the hood; earlier in the project I ran out of red stuff for the power wire. Tonight I got that all taken care of. 



















I also ran another ground cable with the stock ground




























Everything all buttoned up










I also pulled the battery and drilled several sets of holes through the plastic battery holder so I could properly secure the power wire with zip ties. I previously tried using adhesive zip tie anchors as I used in the passenger cabin, but these failed pretty quickly. I didn't snap any pics of this. 

Not the most exciting of updates, but one more check on the list . This represents 2 hours of work bringing the project total to 414 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Grendel

Subscribing to see the finished results... I just read the entire thread. Very impressive.

I've done a few small scale installs, but a friend and I are tackling my first major one, a 2010 GMC Sierra Crew Cab. Should prove interesting. We're going to run a JBL MS-8 as well.


----------



## trevordj

Another mini update for the day: 

I mounted both boxes permanently in the hatch and mounted one of the subs. The other sub cannot be mounted until I get the binding posts (hopefully by tomorrow). I am happy to report the box is VERY VERY VERY sealed (almost eerily so). 










I also added a bunch of cotton batting around the boxes



















That is it! This represents another 2 hours of work bringing the project total to 416 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## trevordj

X-runner said:


> Great looking Volvo! I've liked them since they hit the streets. How do you like the Arc KS amps. I have two ks300.4 just sitting around being neglected. Im too lazy to put them back on my Dyn stuff to try out agin.
> 
> Keep up the good work.


Thanks X-runner! I am not quite sure how I like the Arc amps yet as I have not yet powered up the system. I briefly tested the amplifiers in the car to be sure they weren't blown like my KS 1000.1. Did you have them powering your Dyns and have a problem with them?



2167 said:


> The last one i leak tested with the woofer resulted in a cracked dust cover but since the BMI's dont have dust covers you should be ok
> 
> Your build method sounds sound, but does it sound sound? LoL
> 
> I think my troubles were with dry spots but i appears you should be ok with 10+ layers.
> Keep up the great work.
> I'm waiting on the the next installment


Thanks 2167! Luckily 1 or 2 boxes is perfectly sealed. Whooo hooo!



Grendel said:


> Subscribing to see the finished results... I just read the entire thread. Very impressive.
> 
> I've done a few small scale installs, but a friend and I are tackling my first major one, a 2010 GMC Sierra Crew Cab. Should prove interesting. We're going to run a JBL MS-8 as well.


Thank you Grendel, and in case no one has said so welcome to the forum! Good luck with your first big install. Take your time and have fun (oh and post a build log ).


----------



## trevordj

I'm going to keep it going with another mini update, this one is a huge milestone in my mind however: 

I received the other set of Dayton binding posts from Parts Express today. With that, I mounted the second subwoofer










This marks the final mounting of 15 out of 15 total speakers in this epic project . I have this weekend off and will begin fabrication of the amplifier rack. 

This represents 1 hour of work bringing the project total to 417 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## M-Dub

This looks, and looks like it's going to sound amazing! You ARE coming to Austin soon right?


----------



## trevordj

M-Dub said:


> This looks, and looks like it's going to sound amazing! You ARE coming to Austin soon right?


Absolutely! I got to meet up with Gabe (se7en) a few weeks back and have been eagerly looking forward to making it up there so I can hear some more Austin awesomeness. As soon as this baby is done I will be heading up there for the next mini meet .


----------



## DaveRulz

FYI:

417hrs x 25$ hr for labor (this is cheap!) = $10,425!!!!!!!!!


----------



## trevordj

That is absolutely staggering to think of! I guess that is yet another reason why I am completely digging doing it myself .


----------



## DaveRulz

trevordj said:


> That is absolutely staggering to think of! I guess that is yet another reason why I am completely digging doing it myself .


EXACTLY!


----------



## JayinMI

DaveRulz said:


> FYI:
> 
> 417hrs x 25$ hr for labor (this is cheap!) = $10,425!!!!!!!!!


That is HELLA cheap. We are cheap at $60/hr.


----------



## DaveRulz

that's what I'm saying! if they were ONLY charging 25$ an hour it would still be over 10k!


----------



## trevordj

I got almost nothing done on the car today because I was preoccupied getting this set up: 










If only I would have had this while building the sub boxes. 

I was able to get the beginning of the amplifier rack complete










Tomorrow I will cut out the holes for the fans, cut the insert/trim ring for the fans, carpet the amp rack and MOUNT THE AMPS . The end is near!

Not counting the dicking off with the new table saw (I spent the majority of my day trying to figure out how to mount my router and use it with the build in router table), this represents 2 hours work bringing the project total to 419 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## mattyjman

looks like a nice piece of equipment there... how useable do you think that is as a router table? ... doesn't the blade guide for the saw get in the way?


----------



## trevordj

Are you referring to the ripping fence or the safety cover over the blade? The ripping fence actually doubles as the router fence with the addition of a few goodies that were included. The blade safety cover is easily removable. 

I played around with it tonight and it is very capable as a router table. In fact I am super excited to have one piece of equipment in the garage that can use to do most of my woodworking.


----------



## trevordj

Well, no surprise but I didn't get as much done today as I had hoped despite a full day of work. 

I routed the openings for the fans










And cut the trim rings










Circles cut and hit with a 1/4" roundover










This is where my day hit a snag. My first CF overlay sucked. Rather than strip it I just cut new ones. Then went on the CF again. 



















This is the look I am going for. I have one of them almost finished with sanding and ready for clear, the other one hasn't been started. 










The other thing I worked on are some mounting points for the fans. I cut these out of birch plywood and glued them together. 










I made a jig and routed out an arc so the mounting brackets do not impede airflow. 










I hit those with some black paint. 










That is all I got done today. This represents 8 hours of work bringing the project total to 427 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Duncan345

It's really coming together. Great work! It inspires me to avoid taking shortcuts on my upcoming install.


----------



## 2167

:thumbsup:


----------



## m3gunner

DaveRulz said:


> that's what I'm saying! if they were ONLY charging 25$ an hour it would still be over 10k!


Add in the photography time and I'd say it's close to $15K.


----------



## trevordj

Alright gentlemen, I got a lot done today. 

The inside of the amp rack was carpeted and fans mounted with the brackets (pressure fit)




























I also carpeted the front of the amp rack and added the carbon fiber trim panels which I also finished today . These also press into place and fit PERFECTLY . I love it when a plan comes together. 





































That is it. Believe it or not, this represents 15 hours (4 hours yesterday, 3 hours Monday, 6 hours today) of work bringing the project total to 442 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Duncan345

Getting down to the home stretch now! It's weird seeing an update that doesn't involve your entire car being torn apart.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Duncan! Don't worry, my car is still torn to smithereens with more wires than I care to admit that need organizing. But, oh yes, the end is near! 

Something I forgot to include in the update is that I also cut the second tier shelf that will hold the MS-8 and most of the wiring. If I get enough sleep tonight (I am working nights for the next month starting tonight) I will be able to get to that tomorrow.


----------



## IBcivic

Trevor, after working with your new table saw for a bit, would you recommend it? 

Still luvin this build!


----------



## trevordj

Thanks man! Ya, I REALLY like the saw. Plenty of power and I like how all of the storage is laid out. My only complaint so far is it is very difficult to cut full sheets of plywood (the saw gets a bit tipsy... doable with two peope and/or one person and some roller stands). This is of course a shortcoming of all contractor saws. I love having the built in router table.


----------



## kenham40

Where did you get those fan brackets? They are exactly what I need!


----------



## Duncan345

kenham40 said:


> Where did you get those fan brackets? They are exactly what I need!


Those are homemade by Trevor himself. He has pictures of the build if you check a couple pages back.


----------



## trevordj

Yep, exactly. Homemade with my new table saw and router table .


----------



## IBcivic

kenham40 said:


> Where did you get those fan brackets? They are exactly what I need!


diyFB.com


----------



## trevordj

amitaF said:


> diyFB.com


lolz! :laugh:


----------



## trevordj

More progress today. 

I added a stereo headphone extender I purchased from Rat Shack so I can easily plug into the front of the amplifier rack and run setup calibration with the MS-8. Pretty simple install: drilled a hole and secured with some epoxy glue










I cut out the second shelf for the amp rack










I had this great idea to use some extra pillars for a Sanus Euro System modular AV-rack I use in the house. These babies fit the bill perfectly. 










I started by cutting them to the size I needed










Then I cut some 1/4" threaded rod 










Drilled and tapped hurricane nuts into the amp rack base










Threaded the rods through










Pillars in place and mocked up with the shelf


----------



## trevordj

I mounted the amplifiers . 










The second shelf was carpeted and MS-8 mounted . 



















After having to pull the second shelf to trim it a bit so it would clear some metal tabs I was able to mock the amp rack in the hatch










From the front



















That is it for now. This represents 6 hours of work bringing the project total to 448 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## jimp

simply amazing the amount of work, and the continued attention to the details, would love to see it and hear it when its all done. How long will it take you to "tune it"?


----------



## seabreeze

After 26 pages of this spectaular build, mad skills,thought that I would read of your impressions of your fruit of labor on how the system sounds.

So when is D day to blast off to the moon, to get this system turned on....

Well planned and finely exuacuted ! ! !


----------



## trevordj

jimp said:


> simply amazing the amount of work, and the continued attention to the details, would love to see it and hear it when its all done. How long will it take you to "tune it"?


Thanks a million jimp! I am trying not to let the excitement of knowing the project is close to being finished get in the way of maintaining the high standards I have (tried) to set throughout the rest of the build. It is exciting to know that the list of "unknowns" is dwindling. When I started the build it was about 50 items long (seriously, I have a checklist in my iphone). I vowed to face everything one step at a time and not get bogged down with the build as a whole. I resolved to solve each of those unknowns or "problems" one at a time not moving on to something else until it was solved. This has led to me doing almost everything twice (or at least 1.5 times) but I have learned an absolute ton in the process. 

At the end of this build I will probably put together a thank you list for the many builds and theories contributed to this forum by the senior members that directly contributed to my being able to tackle this myself. They are the ones who deserve the real propers here. 

To your question (sorry I kinda went off on a tangent there); hopefully tuning won't take too much time. I am hoping to roughly set my gains with an RTA and then let the MS-8 work its magic. I heard Se7en's ride a couple months back with an out of box MS-8 tune and it sounded amazing!

Will you find yourself in the San Antonio area anytime soon? I would love to demo the system when it is all finished if you are in the area. 



seabreeze said:


> After 26 pages of this spectaular build, mad skills,thought that I would read of your impressions of your fruit of labor on how the system sounds.
> 
> So when is D day to blast off to the moon, to get this system turned on....
> 
> Well planned and finely exuacuted ! ! !


Thanks for taking the time to read this (I didn't realize it had gotten so long)!

Ah, the golden question! I can't give an exact date because of what I explained above. I really want to stick to my game plan and not get sloppy in the end trying to meet a deadline (At one time I think I said I would be done in March :laugh. I had/have an exact vision of how I want everything to turn out and I won't stop until that objective is achieved.

Cliff notes: hopefully in the next couple of weeks .


----------



## Duncan345

I live in Mississippi but I have some friends in south Texas... I may have to pay them a visit if I could swing by and see/hear the car.


----------



## kenham40

Duncan345 said:


> Those are homemade by Trevor himself. He has pictures of the build if you check a couple pages back.


I have been following this thread since it started and some how missed that, I feel horrible! Thanks for the smack in the face LOL - I'll go back and check it out.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

This is one of the most impressive builds I've seen. I guess I'll watch the final stages, I real about half the posts in one sitting and will have to read the others later. In one word, epic.


----------



## trevordj

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> This is one of the most impressive builds I've seen. I guess I'll watch the final stages, I real about half the posts in one sitting and will have to read the others later. In one word, epic.


Thanks a million TJ! By the by, I grew up about 15 miles from your twenty. I am from Idaho Falls; I haven't made it back there in about half a decade but I will likely be visiting my stomping ground within the next year. I may have to stop in and check out the shop .


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

trevordj said:


> Thanks a million TJ! By the by, I grew up about 15 miles from your twenty. I am from Idaho Falls; I haven't made it back there in about half a decade but I will likely be visiting my stomping ground within the next year. I may have to stop in and check out the shop .


Just as long as your expectations aren't too high, you're welcome to visit! My "shop" is more of a back yard operation than anything. I do design and build enclosures for clients all over the country, but I only have time and space to work on one project at a time. Consequently, I never have time to get the systems in my own vehicles up to snuff. And I've certainly never done anything as in-depth as what you have done here.

In all seriousness, please do visit, I'd love to hear your stereo. I must submit that I won't have a comparable offering...


----------



## trevordj

I got another full day of work in today. 

I started by trimming the length of the amplifier rack by one inch to get a little more clearance for the fan. I also had to move the position of the stereo plug for the mic as its original location would have made it very challenging to access. 










This shows the clearance for the fan while the seat is down; It is actually only covered up by about half and has about an inch of clearance in front. 










I cut the 8 foot long mic plug extender, soldered it back together, and buttoned it up with heat shrink. 










The majority of my day was spent pre-wiring the amp rack before it goes in the car. Here is the final result










I still have a lot of cleaning up to do and a few more wires to run. 

Most of my time was spent making 5/8 of the RCAs. The other 3 are already in the car and will just needs ends soldered on. 










Wired the relay with quenching diode across terminals 85 and 86



















Fused key-on distribution from the relay










Fused 12V power for relay and MS-8


----------



## trevordj

Fused distribution for 2/4 amplifiers










Ground distribution block and 5 RCAs going to lower portion of amp rack. Grommet in place. 










Power, ground and remote out to MS-8.










Well, that is as far as I was able to get today. Wiring takes a surprisingly long time. This represents 15 hours of work (I was on my feet ALL DAY) bringing the project total to 463 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## jimp

I have relatives in the Houston area, may have to make a "visit" to them and then a bit further west just to hear and see this build. Hope you are happy with the end results when its done.


----------



## trevordj

I got another solid day of work in before having to go to the hospital for the night. 

I finished pre-wiring the amplifier rack. All the wires still need secured to the rack but I will do this after all the wires are run in the car so I don't have to do it twice. 



















DIY Y-adapter for the center channel. I am coining the phrase DI-Y-adapter 










Finally, the amplfier rack was mounted in the car 










The rack itself is a bit heavy and was somewhat of a challenge to put in. On top of the weight, I had to take the top shelf off the rack in the car in order to hook up the speaker wires for the rear speakers. I still have 3 additional RCAs to put ends on and plug in along with running the master ground, hooking up power, remote, and front level in to the MS-8. If I get enough sleep at work tonight I should have tunes by tomorrow . 

I am by no means done. I still have to mount the MS-8 display and remote along with fab the beauty panel and cover. I will be tackling this throughout the week. At least I will FINALLY have tunes though. 

This represents 7 hours of work bringing the project total to 470 hours. Thank you for looking!


----------



## trevordj

jimp said:


> I have relatives in the Houston area, may have to make a "visit" to them and then a bit further west just to hear and see this build. Hope you are happy with the end results when its done.


Absolutely jimp, you are always welcome to come check it out. I might have a cold beer or two on hand if just such an occasion were to happen .


----------



## Installer4life

Almost there, Trevor! I hope to be finished by the end of the month. Not as involved as yours and I have a ton of experience and all the right tools....We'll see though.


----------



## Duncan345

CRAZY dedication. You're the man. I really will drive to Tejas to hear this thing... but I'll have to wait until after my legal writing assignments are due in October. 

FYI, Texas and Mississippi are in the same federal court circuit and I am specializing in medical malpractice defense. Hopefully you will never need a lawyer, but you never know!


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Duncan! 

That is an awesome specialty, kudos to you! No offense, but hopefully I will NEVER need you.


----------



## trevordj

Alright, I have two photos but this is possibly the most substantial update of the build. 

Yesterday, I found an appropriate ground location










AND, drumroll please, I connected all the wiring and mounted the amplifier rack permanently in the car! (I still have a lot of organizing and zip ties to add in, I just wanted to make sure everything functions in the car before I go strapping everything down). 










After some troubleshooting, I NOW HAVE MUSIC!!!!!!

I pulled a really quick base tune off the MS-8 without yet doing any fine tuning. I am absolutely over the moon with the sound I am getting out of this car!

My only beef at this point is I do have the bluetooth echo issue, but I have a solution. Tonight I will order some Vifa wideband mids which I will mount in the rear of the car (they will share a baffle with the rear speakers. I am unconcerned about imaging or location. I will hook these up to the stock amp front outputs and run the MS-8 off the rear outputs (My bluetooth only plays through the front speaker outputs). 

I also need some input. If you recall I was planning on doing a beauty panel over the subs and MS-8 (with a CF overlay) followed by a hinged carpeted cover. For the sake of simplicity and, as this will not be a show car, I am toying with the idea of foregoing the beauty panel and just doing a carpeted cover with integrated grills. I would like to get some of your opinions on this before I decide. 

This represents 11 hours of work (7 yesterday, 4 today) bringing the project total to 481 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## IBcivic

trevordj said:


> Alright, I have two photos but this is possibly the most substantial update of the build.
> 
> Yesterday, I found an appropriate ground location
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AND, drumroll please, I connected all the wiring and mounted the amplifier rack permanently in the car! (I still have a lot of organizing and zip ties to add in, I just wanted to make sure everything functions in the car before I go strapping everything down).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some troubleshooting, I NOW HAVE MUSIC!!!!!!
> 
> I pulled a really quick base tune off the MS-8 without yet doing any fine tuning. I am absolutely over the moon with the sound I am getting out of this car!
> 
> My only beef at this point is I do have the bluetooth echo issue, but I have a solution. Tonight I will order some Vifa wideband mids which I will mount in the rear of the car (they will share a baffle with the rear speakers. I am unconcerned about imaging or location. I will hook these up to the stock amp front outputs and run the MS-8 off the rear outputs (My bluetooth only plays through the front speaker outputs).
> 
> I also need some input. If you recall I was planning on doing a beauty panel over the subs and MS-8 (with a CF overlay) followed by a hinged carpeted cover. For the sake of simplicity and, as this will not be a show car, I am toying with the idea of foregoing the beauty panel and just doing a carpeted cover with integrated grills. I would like to get some of your opinions on this before I decide.
> 
> This represents 11 hours of work (7 yesterday, 4 today) bringing the project total to 481 hours. Thanks for looking!


well, try the simple route and if you do not like it, you can always revert to the original plan


----------



## IBcivic

BTW> congrats!


----------



## seabreeze

After final tuning, awaiting your impressions of SQ sound in the car..


----------



## Duncan345

Congrats! I bet you are really excited to finally have music.

You might be able to simplify the beauty panel to meet your needs. How about a carpeted piece of plywood with cutouts (or plexiglass) to show off your amp and processor? You could build the subwoofer grilles into the panel and then just lay your floormat on top of it.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Nothing wrong with doing it that way, IMO.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks guys, I am super pumped to have tunes again. It really does sound amazing after very little tuning. 

I'm gonna have to think some more about exactly what I want to do with the cover in the hatch. My main concern is having it look completely stock to any peering eyes. It would be kinda cool for a "show off factor" to have a CF beauty panel, but the number of times I will actually display this will likely be few and far between. 

I probably will move forward as originally planned. It would be cool to have some flash in the hatch to match the front of the car.


----------



## trevordj

Oh, and I just ordered a set of Vifa TC9FD-18-08 widebanders so I can set up the bluetooth audio circuit seperate from the music circuit. This plan working will all hinge on whether the BT audio will still play through the front speakers with the stereo faded all the way to the rear. I will give it a shot and see how it works.


----------



## MTopper

i had to laugh at your "faded all the way to the rear" comment because you're in a smaller car rather than a suburban or expedition.. but if it works, that's awesome for you. i've been watching your build forever. i love the build and everything you've come up with. i have gained so many different ideas from it. keep it going and good luck with finishing it up


----------



## trevordj

MTopper said:


> i had to laugh at your "faded all the way to the rear" comment because you're in a smaller car rather than a suburban or expedition.. but if it works, that's awesome for you. i've been watching your build forever. i love the build and everything you've come up with. i have gained so many different ideas from it. keep it going and good luck with finishing it up


Hahaha! Thanks man. I really do think this will work for eliminating the bluetooth echo issue, but we shall see. Worst case scenerio I will have some decent widebanders around for when I finally convince my wife to let me start messing with her car. 

The crazy part is that I have 15 speakers stuffed in a little two door hatch and, if my preliminary tune is any indication, is still is going to sound awesome.


----------



## Duncan345

You do have tons of gear in that little car. My old truck from college had 12 speakers in it, but they were all entry level products. I still have the truck with all that old gear in it. I think I will take some pictures and make an old school thread.

I think you are right to go ahead with your original plans for the hatch. You had a very careful blueprint from the very beginning... you have made it this far so you may as well follow it through.

Can you explain how the rear speakers will fix the bluetooth issue?


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Why not a CF beauty panel with carpet to cover it? Remove it for times that you actually do want show value.


----------



## Duncan345

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Why not a CF beauty panel with carpet to cover it? Remove it for times that you actually do want show value.


I think the original plan was a carbon fiber beauty panel with a hinged, carpeted cover on top to make it look stock when he's not in "show off" mode.


----------



## trevordj

Duncan345 said:


> You do have tons of gear in that little car. My old truck from college had 12 speakers in it, but they were all entry level products. I still have the truck with all that old gear in it. I think I will take some pictures and make an old school thread.
> 
> I think you are right to go ahead with your original plans for the hatch. You had a very careful blueprint from the very beginning... you have made it this far so you may as well follow it through.
> 
> Can you explain how the rear speakers will fix the bluetooth issue?


My proposed plan won't really fix the issue inherant to the MS-8, it is more of a work around that I am 99% positive will work: 

I believe, as others have stated that the echo occurs in cars that have bluetooth with noise cancellation. The MS-8 has a delay of 8 milliseconds which (apparently) exceeds the minimum time in the noise cancellation algorithm, allowing it to be defeated. My proposed work around exploits the fact that my car's bluetooth only plays through the front speakers regardless of how the stereo is faded. This is important as it means that the stereo can be faded all the way to the rear (no music playing through the fronts) but, when a call is placed through the bluetooth, this fade is defeated and the bluetooth plays only through the front speakers as it is designed to do. 

I can therefore wire the MS-8 to the rear speakers outputs, fade the stereo all the way to the rear and wire some cheap wide band speakers to the stock front amplifier outputs. This will result in music playing only through the MS-8 and associated speakers and the bluetooth playing only through the stock amplifier and a single pair of dedicated speakers. 

I think it will work!


----------



## trevordj

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Why not a CF beauty panel with carpet to cover it? Remove it for times that you actually do want show value.


That is essentially what it will be. The only reason I wanted to do a carpeted wood frame over the beauty panel was so I could integrate hidden speaker grills to prevent damage when I am carrying cargo.


----------



## Jaloosk

I say do it. You're going to want to show off your hard work once in a while, so make it look special. :thumbsup: 

Even if you didn't, you'd likely end up doing it anyway!


----------



## trevordj

Jaloosk said:


> I say do it. You're going to want to show off your hard work once in a while, so make it look special. :thumbsup:
> 
> Even if you didn't, you'd likely end up doing it anyway!


Ha ha! You are absolutely right!


----------



## trevordj

Hey guys, 

I haven't built the trim panel and cover yet as I knew I was going to need to pull some of my interior and run some more speaker wire for the widebanders I was installing to fix the bluetooth echo. I am happy to report the widebanders are now installed (I put them under the front seats) and I was able to clean the b'jesus out of the interior of my car with the seats out for (hopefully) the last time today. 

After moving the MS-8 to the rear speaker outputs of the stock amplifier I think I need to re-tune. There is definitely some processing going on as the system previously sounded awesome but is now having some midbass (or lack thereof) issues. I am sure it is just a matter of running tuning again. Overall though, I am still just blown away by how excellent the system sounds. I can't wait to get some feeback from some of the fellas up in Austin to make it that much better. 

Tomorrow I will be replacing the whole of my interior including all the rear panels and back seats. Then I can get to work building the trim panel and cover :smile:. 

I have some pics but am at work right now so I will have to post those tomorrow. 

Cheers!


----------



## trevordj

Here is my solution to the bluetooth echo issue: 

I ran an extra set of speaker wires to the stock amplifier. The MS-8 was hooked up to the rear outputs of the stock amp and the Vifa TC9FD-18-08 3-1/2" full range drivers were hooked directly to the front channels. 










Seats removed 










and speaker wires ran




























Simple baffles were made out of wood, covered in carpet, and speakers screwed in place










The speakers were attached under the front of the seat facing the front of the car using some L-brackets. 



















The interior was cleaned and everything replaced. This solution works perfectly! No more bluetooth echo. 

This represents 5 hours of work bringing the project total to 486 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## rcurley55

How do callers sound? Are their voices pretty clear and robust?


----------



## trevordj

rcurley55 said:


> How do callers sound? Are their voices pretty clear and robust?


I don't know if I would describe voices as bobust, but they are clear and loud. I am happy with how it turned out. 

I couldn't help but test out those Vifa drivers in my home before installing them. They are pretty impressive little speakers, especially for the price.


----------



## n_olympios

Cool update, Trevor! I'm glad you solved the echo issue. 

How about some grilles on those Vifas though? Aren't you worried about them getting damaged that way?


----------



## trevordj

n_olympios said:


> Cool update, Trevor! I'm glad you solved the echo issue.
> 
> How about some grilles on those Vifas though? Aren't you worried about them getting damaged that way?


They are actually really stuffed deep in the seat. Further, when they are in the car they sit just behind a metal rail that holds the seat up. I honestly don't see any way they could get damaged save someone stabbing underneath the seat with a screwdriver or something. I may risk it for now.


----------



## n_olympios

Sounds fair enough. 

Edit: Don't let me be misunderstood (Nina Simone or Eric Burdon?), I'm a bit anal when it comes to safety/protection of drivers etc.


----------



## trevordj

n_olympios said:


> Sounds fair enough.
> 
> Edit: Don't let me be misunderstood (Nina Simone or Eric Burdon?), I'm a bit anal when it comes to safety/protection of drivers etc.


Absolutely! As well you should be. I absolutely would have put a grill over those things if there was any way they could be kicked but in all honesty there isn't. I actually just had my wife get in the car and kick her heals against the front of the seat. She was still a good 5 inches off the drivers.

More progress today: 

I was able to get the interior completely replaced in the car . I think this is the first time I have had all of my interior in the car for 8 months . I really like how everything is fitting nice and snug. One thing I did that isn't pictured is glue a bunch of cotton batting behind the rear quarter panel trim. I cranked the system in the car and remain without ANY rattles. None, zip, zilch. I am very happy about that. 










I still need to secure down the amp rack wiring. Now that everything is in and working properly I feel comfortable doing this (will get to that tomorrow). 










Don't you love it when a plan comes together? The sub boxes and MS-8 sit EXACTLY level with the rear trim panel. This was not by accident. This will prove useful when building the trim panel and cover. 



















Seats in after getting a good massaging with some Connolly Leather Treatment. Great stuff. 



















I think its time to pull out the fisheye again . 










This represents 6 hours of work bringing the project total to 492 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Jaloosk

I'm almost sad to see this thread nearing its conclusion! Great work Trevor! :thumbsup:


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Jaloosk! To be honest, me too . I have been dragging my feet with the beauty panel as I have slowly come to the realization that I will now have tons of unfilled free time. 

I still have a few mods that need done on the inside of the car though; that should keep me busy for the next couple of weeks. Then I will start a few exterior mods (powder coating the wheels and doing a CF overlay on the rearview mirrors will be first on the list). I will probably just keep this thread going even though the stereo will be done .


----------



## digitalsolo

Beautiful thread Trevor. 

And as a modder myself (though I do more performance work vs. stereo work), I can say you'll always find a little more to play with somewhere. The bulk of the work may be over, but I'd bet you'll find tweaks here and there for some time still. I'd wager you already know that though.

Thanks again for putting up such a detailed build log; your attention to detail is most impressive.

-Blake


----------



## n_olympios

Don't worry Trevor. Building a car audio system is like building a house. It never ends.


----------



## trevordj

digitalsolo said:


> Beautiful thread Trevor.
> 
> And as a modder myself (though I do more performance work vs. stereo work), I can say you'll always find a little more to play with somewhere. The bulk of the work may be over, but I'd bet you'll find tweaks here and there for some time still. I'd wager you already know that though.
> 
> Thanks again for putting up such a detailed build log; your attention to detail is most impressive.
> 
> -Blake


Thank you Blake! I think you are right as I just spent a good portion of my day overhauling the amp rack legs. One thing I didn't think of was how big of a pain in the ass it was going to be removing and replacing that second shelf while the rack is in the car. It is now less of a pain in the ass . 

Welcome to the forum!



n_olympios said:


> Don't worry Trevor. Building a car audio system is like building a house. It never ends.


Hehehe. I think you are right. Although, one of my original goals (and a general rule I live by) is "do it once, do it right." I look through my car right now and everything is 100% how I want it to be (except what is left with the hatch trim panel of course). I hope to reap the benefits of this install for many years.


----------



## scooter99

Ok Trevor, I just got done reading all 28 pages, and I'm absolutely floored at how well this thing has turned out. Getting ready to redo my Civic now and this has given me a great motivation to make sure to do it right this time. Wow man you've done a job that is too great to even describe! 

Just my two cents on the cover piece. I would do a two piece application. One that sits on the subs, with a mesh grill over it similar to what you did with your apillars, only bigger. Then for the back, do the same thing with a mesh vent over the MS-8 and hinge it so you can easily lift it if you need to get under it for any reason. Maybe incorporate some of those gas shocks (not sure what they're really called) so that it will lift easily and stay up while you work. Then just carpet both to match the interior. 

But that's just my two cents. If you do that, and you don't like it, you can go to the extreme like you've done with the rest of the car. Something tells me that after all the work you've put in, a couple of simple cover pieces won't do for you! Just a guess! 

Again, stellar work my man!! WOW!


----------



## trevordj

scooter99 said:


> Ok Trevor, I just got done reading all 28 pages, and I'm absolutely floored at how well this thing has turned out. Getting ready to redo my Civic now and this has given me a great motivation to make sure to do it right this time. Wow man you've done a job that is too great to even describe!
> 
> Just my two cents on the cover piece. I would do a two piece application. One that sits on the subs, with a mesh grill over it similar to what you did with your apillars, only bigger. Then for the back, do the same thing with a mesh vent over the MS-8 and hinge it so you can easily lift it if you need to get under it for any reason. Maybe incorporate some of those gas shocks (not sure what they're really called) so that it will lift easily and stay up while you work. Then just carpet both to match the interior.
> 
> But that's just my two cents. If you do that, and you don't like it, you can go to the extreme like you've done with the rest of the car. Something tells me that after all the work you've put in, a couple of simple cover pieces won't do for you! Just a guess!
> 
> Again, stellar work my man!! WOW!


Thanks a million Scooter! I think we are on the same wavelength the the rear hatch. I started it yesterday and it will be very similar to what you described. The whole cover will be on a piano hinge with gas shocks just as you suggested. The only difference is that I will be going with a CF beauty panel and will cover this with the carpeted stealth cover. I think it will turn out pretty sweet. 

I will hopefully have some new pics up by the end of the day.


----------



## scooter99

Sweet! I can't wait to see it! That's another thing! You've got me wanting to try to do carbon fiber! Looking forward to pics!


----------



## trevordj

Well, it may be a broken record but I didn't get as much done today as I hoped. I do have a solid vision for the hatch now so I still consider the day a success. 

The wiring in the hatch was buttoned up. 










The wood insert was cut with the table saw and router with a 1/4" round over applied around the subwoofer cutouts. This will be finished in carbon fiber. 










Test fit in the car










This is the stock cover in the hatch










And the area of interest: I set to duplicate this shape using my router table and flush cut bit. I like the way this stock cover sits flush with the seat in the car. I could have just done a straight piece of wood, but that's no fun. 










Copied. 










Test fit in the car


----------



## trevordj

This was sorta interesting and something that will likely never be noticed in the car, but I hit this lip overhang with a 1/4" round-over and then did the rest of the panel in a 1/2" round-over. I blended them by hand at the corner. I kinda like it. 










The transition point



















The underside of the lip










This was my genius moment of the day (although I don't know if this worked yet as I am not finished). I set to make a master router template for each side of the hatch since I will be cutting these twice per side. 

I started with this area: 










Layed down some doubled over heavy duty tin foil










Traced out the area with a sharpie










Carefully removed with foil










Cut out with scissors










After double checking in the car, I traced this two-dimentional foil mold onto a piece of wood and smoothed out the edges with some spare wood circles of various sizes I have laying around. I will cut these out tomorrow and use them as a master template to cutout the final cover shape. Hopefully this will work. 

Well thats it for today. This represents 6 hours of work bringing the project total to 498 hours. Thanks for looking!


----------



## BurnOut956

very nice build. great job!


----------



## scooter99

Marvelous! Simply Marvelous!!! Nice progress today!


----------



## JayinMI

My favorite product for making templates is poster board and masking tape...seems like tin foil could change a little if it crinkles or if there are contours, can't wait to see how it works out for you. Install is coming along great.

Jay


----------



## trevordj

Thanks guys! I have never used posterboard Jay, I may have to give that a shot. I was previously cutting templates out of cardboard but wanted to try something different. I'll have to see how this works out.


----------



## IBcivic

Me likes the foil idea I'm going to try this technique, using extra heavy foil. Was transferring from the foil tricky? I recently drew a quick sketch of a test baffle on CAD , printed it 1:1, and used flat black spray to transfer the outline onto the substrate, due to the limp nature of printer paper.[and my shaky old hands]

somehow i knew you could not resist the carbon beauty board

Martin


----------



## trevordj

Thanks Martin! I will try to type loudly so you don't have to turn up the hearing aids  . Transferring with the foil wasn't difficult at all. I didn't really explain thoroughly, but after I cut out the shape, I put it back in the car and doubled over the edges to double make sure the shape was correct. With the doubled over heavy duty stuff it seemed to hold its shape well. The proof is in the pudding though, I'll cut out the templates today and see if they actually fit.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Wow, looking forward to more CF goodness!


----------



## Echo42987

I can't believe this install is still going on.....

I haven't been here for like MONTHS and this is still a hot topic. Took me forever to catch up. Great job so far man


----------



## scooter99

We're just waiting for him to post up the cf creations!! He's done a hell of a job!! Inspired me for sure!


----------



## derickveliz

scooter99 said:


> We're just waiting for him to post up the cf creations!! He's done a hell of a job!! Inspired me for sure!


+ 2

.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks gentlemen, I haven't gotten to the CF quite yet. I haven't worked on anything the past couple days. Today I dragged my ass out to the garage finished up the master router jig for the hatch area. I am going to have to make clever use of some hinges under the carpeting to make the cover easy to remove. I needed to nail down the cover design before I do the beauty panel and CF. My goal is to have the hatch done in the next two weekends before the GTG up in Austin. 

I'll have some new photos up in the next couple days. Now that I have the jig done it should move pretty quickly .


----------



## scooter99

Right on my man! Anxiously awaiting!


----------



## AdamTaylor

n_olympios said:


> Don't worry Trevor. Building a car audio system is like building a house. It never ends.


except worse, the wife loves stuff done to improve "HER" pretty little house but the instant you mention improving "That damn car"... well ****, lets face it, you would probably catch less hell for having a hooker problem or something.


----------



## sydmonster

hmmm....fish eye??


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

sydmonster said:


> hmmm....fish eye??


Fish eye lens was what he meant (for his camera).


----------



## sydmonster

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Fish eye lens was what he meant (for his camera).


oohh reallyy????


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

sydmonster said:


> oohh reallyy????


Sorry, your post "sounded" confused.


----------



## trevordj

Ok dudes, I finally have all the panels cut for the hatch. I think this is going to look very nice when finished. 

This is the master jig that took me quite a while to create. It is, of course the most important to get right as everything else in the hatch will be based off this jig: 










Skipping over about 100 steps (I don't know why, but pics of each step kinda got away from me) here are the cut panels mocked in the hatch. 










With the top cover removed (the cover removed will have backless carpet and will be hinged with a gas shock so it can be lifted and the carbon fiber displayed). The panel over the speakers will be CF. I still need to cut some vents over the MS-8 so it can breath. 










Center section removed










And all the pieces broken down










Tomorrow: I start the carbon fiber overlay . 

Well, that is it. This represents 16 hours of work bringing the project total to 514 hours. As always, thanks for looking!


----------



## Duncan345

Looking good!


----------



## Duncan345

Hey Trevor, I have a request. Could you tell me your final gear layout? No need to make another pretty chart in photoshop... a brief description will work just fine. I've gotten a lot of inspiration from your build and I plan to steal some of your ideas.


----------



## trevordj

No problemo buddy, the final diagram is burried somewhere in the thread (I think its around page 17 or 22 or something ), but I can post it again (easier than trying to list everything out):


----------



## trevordj

fixed the pic, it should be working now. The final diagram was on page 11.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

WOW, that is one hell of a shopping list! Very nice gear, cant wait 
to see how you like the ARC's. Am I reading this correctly, is that 
a 3way center chan?


----------



## trevordj

FLYONWALL9 said:


> WOW, that is one hell of a shopping list! Very nice gear, cant wait
> to see how you like the ARC's. Am I reading this correctly, is that
> a 3way center chan?


Not a shopping list anymore! It took me about 8 months to acquire the gear and another 8 months to install everything, but its all in the car and sounds AMAZING if I do say so myself. The few who have listened to my car comment that the highs and mids are crystal clear and the sound stage is very high. I will hopefully get some more feedback this weekend at the get together up in Austin. 

It's sorta hard to comment about how the amps sound. The true superstar of the system is the MS-8 rendering any distinct sound from the amps all but impossible to discern (which is how it should be IMHO). They put out enough power thats for sure . 

The center channel is 3-way quasi active with a passive x-over between the mid and tweet using the onboard crossover with the amp between the midbass and mid/tweet. The center is the gem of the front stage. Getting that 6.5" woofer in there made all the difference in the world.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

You answered exactly how I hoped you would concerning your amps. Those are my next choice if my current old school gear doesn't have the power I recall them having 10+ years ago. Though I've run center channel in a few cars never have I had the room for a MB driver. I bet that does make a measurable difference in SQ. I bet it does have a very high sound stage. I've read bits and pieces of your build but haven't gone through it all, I will now!

Forgive my ignorance of the MS-8, does it have TA for all the channels you are running? 

If in the future you take a trip east to any shows in MS, AL, FL, please let me know I would love to get a listen to this. It's been 20 years sense my last visit to San Antonio. 

Thanks for taking the time for your replies.....


----------



## trevordj

FLYONWALL9 said:


> You answered exactly how I hoped you would concerning your amps. Those are my next choice if my current old school gear doesn't have the power I recall them having 10+ years ago. Though I've run center channel in a few cars never have I had the room for a MB driver. I bet that does make a measurable difference in SQ. I bet it does have a very high sound stage. I've read bits and pieces of your build but haven't gone through it all, I will now!
> 
> Forgive my ignorance of the MS-8, does it have TA for all the channels you are running?
> 
> If in the future you take a trip east to any shows in MS, AL, FL, please let me know I would love to get a listen to this. It's been 20 years sense my last visit to San Antonio.
> 
> Thanks for taking the time for your replies.....


No problem at all, I'll let you know if I ever head out your direction. The MS-8 sort of has TA for all my channels. The center channel is all run off one output of the MS-8. However, luckily, all the drivers are roughly the same distance to either listener despite being seperated by the dash. The front mid/tweets share an output as do the rear passive comps. Basically 8 channels of processing from the MS-8 with TA shared among the 15 speakers per the diagram above.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Gotcha, so your using the gain as an L-pad like what was used 'back in the day.' No TA needed for center. That is pretty trick. Though my XES-X1 has 8chan xover with TA it does so per driver. If I'm getting you the MS-8 does this in speaker groups in your app. JBL really needs to have something better than this JBL MS-8

It is really clever how you used it along with the xovers in your amps. TONS of flexibility........


----------



## scooter99

trevordj said:


> No problemo buddy, the final diagram is burried somewhere in the thread (I think its around page 17 or 22 or something ), but I can post it again (easier than trying to list everything out):


Damn I wish I had the knowledge and software to photoshop! That is freaking sexy!! With all the Audison and Hertz gear I have I'd love to be able to do something like that and put it on a piece of acrylic to show off. Great work!


----------



## wdemetrius1

Just read all 29 pages, great job!!!!


----------



## Duncan345

scooter99 said:


> Damn I wish I had the knowledge and software to photoshop! That is freaking sexy!! With all the Audison and Hertz gear I have I'd love to be able to do something like that and put it on a piece of acrylic to show off. Great work!


Hey, that's a good idea. Trevor could incorporate his chart into the beauty panel!


----------



## Duncan345

Any updates? I'm dying to see the results!


----------



## trevordj

wdemetrius1 said:


> Just read all 29 pages, great job!!!!


Thank you kindly!



Duncan345 said:


> Any updates? I'm dying to see the results!


Unfortunately, no I don't have any updates . I got sick late last week and was horizontal the whole weekend, I even had to miss work Monday (I NEVER miss work). I have been patiently waiting to get my strength back. The most annoying thing is I have a secondary ear infection and haven't been able to hear from one of my ears for the past 4 days. 

I do have some photos I took from last week before I got sick; the CF is almost done and I have a small surprise that I came up with that I may reveal.


----------



## FREQBOX

Very nice!!! Im looking forward to seeing how the cover panel looks in the hatch.


----------



## wdemetrius1

Quote:
Originally Posted by wdemetrius1 View Post

Just read all 29 pages, great job!!!!
Thank you kindly!

No problem. Still tuned in, glad to see you doing better.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

DITTO'S 

Glad to hear your doing better. So, while you were sick what did you think of doing differently or changing? It never fails when one is laid up while doing a project changes are mulled over, how about yours?

Cheers,
Scott


----------



## trevordj

Thanks guys, 

Ok, I'll let the cat outta the bag. Actually, I made the decision to try this long ago but have selectively omitted this detail just in case I found myself unable to do it successfully. Anyway, a picture is worth a thousand words and here is what I have so far: 










I still have some sanding to get rid of the guide coat on the CF and I have a whole bunch of polishing in my future for the aluminum trim ring (cut from 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet). I will have a more formal update after I get some work done this weekend .


----------



## wdemetrius1

Looks good!!!


----------



## Duncan345

trevordj said:


>


----------



## FLYONWALL9

trevordj said:


> .


Trevor
I love this part! I was wanting to do something like this around
my kicks, door speakers, and sub. I would really like to see how
you did this when you get around to posting. And the tools you
used. I like the finish as is, it matches the little do-dad parts 
made for 911's on the market.

VERY SLICK!


----------



## trevordj

Thanks gentlemen! Aluminum is actually surprisingly easy to work with. I was quite nervous to cut it though, didn't quite know how my router bits would hold up. It turns out it wasn't bad, went off without a hitch. I just used some WD40 to lubricate the bit every so often and did VERY shallow cuts and multiple passes. 

I'm not doing anything else tonight, so what the hell, here's some pics: 

I started with a solid sheet of 1/8" 6061 aluminum sheet. This **** was expensive and heavy! In retrospect I probably could have used 1/16" aluminum, but I just kinda took a shot in the dark with the thickness as I had never used it before. 










I used my router and jasper circle jig to carefully cut the arcs










I cut the outside straight edge with my table saw and had to do the inside edge as close as possible with an angle grinder










You can see the inside edge was still pretty ragged










I cut a piece of wood and used double stick tape to attach it to the alluminum










I then used the flush trim bit on my router table to get the inside edges nice and straight. 



















I was going to make a flush trim jig for the entire piece and hit the inside and outside edges with an 1/8" roundover bit. Instead I just used my orbital sander and rounded over the edges by hand. It's probably not a perfect roundover, but you would be hard pressed to tell. 

That's about it. Pretty straight forward to work with. 

I went back and forth with whether to do a polished finish or a matte finish. The aluminum-like trim pieces in my car are matte so maybe that will be the way to go. I will have to mess with it to be able to get the matte finish consistent throughout the piece. I don't want it to appear brushed (not that that's not cool, just not what I am going for).


----------



## FLYONWALL9

You could try bead blasting, start with really low psi at first
and see what that gives you, or diff types of media?


----------



## trevordj

That's a good idea. I would have to figure out how to get set up for it, but I think that will be the only way to get a matte look without sand sand marks. I'll look into it.


----------



## trevordj

Looks like I'll be heading to harbor freight in the next few days


----------



## Se7en

Looking awesome Trevor!


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Yeah, if you want matte but not brushed, sandblasting would be the way to go.


----------



## IBcivic

trevordj said:


>




:rockon:METAL!:rockon:


----------



## IBcivic

trevordj said:


> That's a good idea. I would have to figure out how to get set up for it, but I think that will be the only way to get a matte look without sand sand marks. I'll look into it.


when i painted my wheels, i used a satin clearcoat to protect them, w/o getting them shiny. it's cheap,and you could always rub it off if you don't like the results.
if you are going to media-blast it, you could consider giving the part to a specialized outfit so they can guarantee the result.


----------



## n_olympios

This installation just went up to near Robolop levels.


----------



## HondAudio

trevordj said:


> Progress this weekend was SLOOOWWWW. I figure as long as I continue moving in the proper direction I am happy though.
> 
> I made some rings out of 1/2" HDPE I picked up at the local restaurant supply store.


Do you need a special bit to cut that type of plastic? I have a Dremel router and I have some cutting boards I'd like to work with [1/4" thick ones I got from IKEA], but I would think that the router bit would melt the plastic? Note that the Dremel operates at a very high speed.


----------



## scooter99

Absolutely 100% speechless! WOW!! I so did not see that coming! Bravo!!


----------



## JP Fabrication

Very nice work!


----------



## fastev

That looks great! Another suggestion for finishing the aluminum-- talk to an anodizing shop. They'd give you a handful of options for the texture of the finish, then if you have it anodized after beadblasting you'll never have to worry about it oxidizing. Plus, it'll be a very durable finish. Shops near me usually charge somewhere around $100 to blast and ano a decent sized part.


----------



## trevordj

Thanks a lot guys! All very great suggestions too. I found a metal finishing company pretty close to my house that seems to do blasting, anodizing, and powder coating. I'm going to give them a call on Monday and see if they can blast and anodize the piece. Thanks for all the excellent suggestions. I am in completely unknown territory with this so I appreciate it. 

If they do a good job I can use them to powder coat my wheels in the near future too .


----------



## trevordj

HondAudio said:


> Do you need a special bit to cut that type of plastic? I have a Dremel router and I have some cutting boards I'd like to work with [1/4" thick ones I got from IKEA], but I would think that the router bit would melt the plastic? Note that the Dremel operates at a very high speed.


Nope, I just used the same spiral upcut bit I use to route wood. I am not sure about cutting it with a dremel, just put it on the lowest speed and go really slow.


----------



## Grendel

Looks good Trevor. I may want to hear this car! I travel to Texas quite a bit. Also just started the build in my truck. Sound deadening in the roof and floor's done... 20 hours of work.


----------



## Duncan345

Hey Trevor, how much Damplifier/Overkill/Luxury Liner did you end up using? I'm about to start ordering stuff for a new GTI and I'm wondering if 1 bulk pack will be enough.


----------



## trevordj

Grendel said:


> Looks good Trevor. I may want to hear this car! I travel to Texas quite a bit. Also just started the build in my truck. Sound deadening in the roof and floor's done... 20 hours of work.


Thanks Grendel! You are always welcome to check out the car. I am VERY happy with how it sounds. Good luck with the project too! I am subscribed to your build, it looks like you are off to a fantastic start. 



Duncan345 said:


> Hey Trevor, how much Damplifier/Overkill/Luxury Liner did you end up using? I'm about to start ordering stuff for a new GTI and I'm wondering if 1 bulk pack will be enough.


Whew, I had to reach way back to remember this . Looking back at my orders with second skin and based on how much I have left, here is my best estimate for the sound deadener: 

100 square feet damplifier
55 SPL tiles
20 square feet overkill
60 square feet overkill pro
72 square feet luxury liner pro
100 square feet jute padding


----------



## Duncan345

Wow, that's a ton of sound deadening. I think I'll start with the doors and hatch area and see where that takes me.


----------



## trevordj

I think that is a good plan. You could probably get by with using much less damplifier for sure. If you aren't doing the roof you could use about 2 fewer sheets LLP as well.


----------



## Installer4life

Looks nice Trevor. Almost there...


----------



## Duncan345

This install really is inspiring. I'm getting a new car (my first ever new car, actually) this Friday, and I've gotten a lot of great ideas and motivation from this thread. I'm going to try to stay disciplined enough to document it like this.

Hey Trevor, I remember you said you were working on an orthopedics rotation a while back. What kind of medicine do you plan to practice?


----------



## trevordj

Installer4life said:


> Looks nice Trevor. Almost there...





Duncan345 said:


> This install really is inspiring. I'm getting a new car (my first ever new car, actually) this Friday, and I've gotten a lot of great ideas and motivation from this thread. I'm going to try to stay disciplined enough to document it like this.
> 
> Hey Trevor, I remember you said you were working on an orthopedics rotation a while back. What kind of medicine do you plan to practice?


Thanks guys! While I really don't feel I deserve it I do appreciate it!

Duncan, I am super excited to see the install in the new ride. Congrats on the new vehicle too! This was my first ever new car after being poor my entire life . Which car are you getting? 

To answer your question, I am in my second year of residency specializing in physical medicine in rehabilitation. I will be sub-specializing in sports medicine. Despite the uncertainty with the future of medicine in our current day and age, I can honestly say I love my job .


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

Trevor, I think this came together really well, and I'm not sure what you mean about not deserving the compliments. You put in 500+ hours on this project, and paid a lot more attention to details than most people even know how. So just get used to accepting the compliments because I'm pretty sure they will keep coming. 

By the way, I'm 45 hours into my latest build, so I'm just scratching the surface compared to yours. Mine's an old truck though, not a new car like yours. My optimistic goal is 100 hours, but realistically it may take a bit longer. Your build has definitely inspired me to go the extra mile on my truck, so thanks for that... I'm not sure if my wife would thank you though, haha.


----------



## Duncan345

trevordj said:


> Duncan, I am super excited to see the install in the new ride. Congrats on the new vehicle too! This was my first ever new car after being poor my entire life . Which car are you getting?
> 
> To answer your question, I am in my second year of residency specializing in physical medicine in rehabilitation. I will be sub-specializing in sports medicine. Despite the uncertainty with the future of medicine in our current day and age, I can honestly say I love my job .


I'm taking delivery on a 2011 VW GTI this Friday. It is a "candy white" 4-door. I already have an Uberstealth subwoofer box, Memphis S-class shallow 10" sub, PDX 1.600, a pair of HAT L6s, and a pair of HAT L1V2s ready to go. I think I am going to sell the PDX and get a Zed Leviathan. It will run my whole system, unless I decide to get a set of HAT L4s for the kickpanels (I probably will, eventually). Whenever that happens I will probably get a Zed Kronos to run the subwoofer.

I have never tried a serious install. I am very intimidated but I'm going to try my best. As I have said numerous times, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from this thread.


----------



## trevordj

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Trevor, I think this came together really well, and I'm not sure what you mean about not deserving the compliments. You put in 500+ hours on this project, and paid a lot more attention to details than most people even know how. So just get used to accepting the compliments because I'm pretty sure they will keep coming.
> 
> By the way, I'm 45 hours into my latest build, so I'm just scratching the surface compared to yours. Mine's an old truck though, not a new car like yours. My optimistic goal is 100 hours, but realistically it may take a bit longer. Your build has definitely inspired me to go the extra mile on my truck, so thanks for that... I'm not sure if my wife would thank you though, haha.


Thank you TJ! I definitely have my eye on your project, I'm digging that box you are working on right now . Initially I thought I would have my project done in 100-150 hours, we all know what happened with that :laugh:. Based on what I have seen so far I have no doubt it will turn out fantastic! 



Duncan345 said:


> I'm taking delivery on a 2011 VW GTI this Friday. It is a "candy white" 4-door. I already have an Uberstealth subwoofer box, Memphis S-class shallow 10" sub, PDX 1.600, a pair of HAT L6s, and a pair of HAT L1V2s ready to go. I think I am going to sell the PDX and get a Zed Leviathan. It will run my whole system, unless I decide to get a set of HAT L4s for the kickpanels (I probably will, eventually). Whenever that happens I will probably get a Zed Kronos to run the subwoofer.
> 
> I have never tried a serious install. I am very intimidated but I'm going to try my best. As I have said numerous times, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from this thread.


It sounds like you have some nice gear and you definitely picked a sweet car. Congratulations! Take your time with the install and you will be surprised what you can accomplish. Based on the amount of thought you have put into everything so far I have high hopes for the final product. I can't wait to see the build!


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

trevordj said:


> Thank you TJ! I definitely have my eye on your project, I'm digging that box you are working on right now . Initially I thought I would have my project done in 100-150 hours, we all know what happened with that :laugh:. Based on what I have seen so far I have no doubt it will turn out fantastic!


Thank you as well, and I'm glad to hear you're watching. That box is going to be some serious fun, I'm finally done with the prototypes so I'll be beginning in earnest soon. I'm pretty confident I will have this done, or at least substantially complete, by December or January. I don't want to work on this in the dead of winter if I can avoid it, I'd rather be skiing!


----------



## trevordj

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Thank you as well, and I'm glad to hear you're watching. That box is going to be some serious fun, I'm finally done with the prototypes so I'll be beginning in earnest soon. I'm pretty confident I will have this done, or at least substantially complete, by December or January. I don't want to work on this in the dead of winter if I can avoid it, I'd rather be skiing!


Hell yes! That is the thing I miss the most about Idaho. I used to hit Targhee every weekend with the occasional Jackson Hole/Big Sky/Salt Lake City thrown in there for variety.


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

trevordj said:


> Hell yes! That is the thing I miss the most about Idaho. I used to hit Targhee every weekend with the occasional Jackson Hole/Big Sky/Salt Lake City thrown in there for variety.


Yeah, I'll be getting a pass to Targhee this year, my sister-in-law works there and sometimes even hooks up up with free food. Alta is my main stomping ground down in Utah. Still have an Alta sticker on my car, in fact!


----------



## wdemetrius1

Duncan345 said:


> I'm taking delivery on a 2011 VW GTI this Friday. It is a "candy white" 4-door. I already have an Uberstealth subwoofer box, Memphis S-class shallow 10" sub, PDX 1.600, a pair of HAT L6s, and a pair of HAT L1V2s ready to go. I think I am going to sell the PDX and get a Zed Leviathan. It will run my whole system, unless I decide to get a set of HAT L4s for the kickpanels (I probably will, eventually). Whenever that happens I will probably get a Zed Kronos to run the subwoofer.
> 
> I have never tried a serious install. I am very intimidated but I'm going to try my best. As I have said numerous times, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from this thread.



Congratulations Trevor on a great build. Duncan I will make sure that I keep an eye out for your build as well.


----------



## sydmonster

The good work here continues! been a while since I checked and in my absence good has been created!


----------



## Grendel

I'll be in Austin Sunday through Wednesday:

Any chance to check this out? I am really interested in hearing what the MS8 does with the three location front stage and it's location... since my truck will be getting something similar... before I install it against every bit of intuition we have about going with a classic kick panel design.


----------



## trevordj

Grendel said:


> I'll be in Austin Sunday through Wednesday:
> 
> Any chance to check this out? I am really interested in hearing what the MS8 does with the three location front stage and it's location... since my truck will be getting something similar... before I install it against every bit of intuition we have about going with a classic kick panel design.


Absolutely! You are more than welcome to listen to it. I am available all day Sunday and in the evenings Monday through Wednesday. I usually get home from work around 6:30pm. Just let me know what time/day works best for you and we can work out the details.


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## onebadmonte

The cover came out awesome, congrats. Great pics as well. For all those wondering, this car sounds phenomenal.


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## Electrodynamic

Wow wow wow! I'll admit I took a "cliff note" view through your thread, but it still took 20 minutes to do so. Your install work is absolutely phenomenal. The attention to detail is hard to wrap my head around. If I lived anywhere near you I would definitely have you on my builds! My installs look like a "special" 4 year old did them compared to yours. 

PS: I love the car!


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## BoilermakerFan

Fantastic build Trevor. I love the C30, but it's too small for our physically growing family, so we traded in a Jetta and A4 for a Honda Pilot. Since it was your first install, you've inspired me to try a much simpler version in t he Pilot...

I'm going to try to build pods off my sail panels for a Seas DXT tweeter and 3" soft dome midrange so I can go active 3-way in the near future with my P800PRS feeding a MS-8. 

I wish my wife was as understanding and supportive as yours. No chance I could gut my Pilot to do such a thorough dampening, though I would love to.

Have any new pics with the sub trim panel and carpeted deck in place?


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## trevordj

onebadmonte said:


> The cover came out awesome, congrats. Great pics as well. For all those wondering, this car sounds phenomenal.


Thanks Hugo! You are the only one from the forum who has heard my setup so far, your feedback is much appreciated! How's work coming on the front midbass? 



Electrodynamic said:


> Wow wow wow! I'll admit I took a "cliff note" view through your thread, but it still took 20 minutes to do so. Your install work is absolutely phenomenal. The attention to detail is hard to wrap my head around. If I lived anywhere near you I would definitely have you on my builds! My installs look like a "special" 4 year old did them compared to yours.
> 
> PS: I love the car!


Nick,

Thank you VERY much! I am so impressed with your subs, every time I crank it up they put a smile on my face . If someone is ever interested in your product and wants to demo the subs before they purchase you are more than welcome to send them my way. I am all for standing behind good products and good peoples. 



BoilermakerFan said:


> Fantastic build Trevor. I love the C30, but it's too small for our physically growing family, so we traded in a Jetta and A4 for a Honda Pilot. Since it was your first install, you've inspired me to try a much simpler version in t he Pilot...
> 
> I'm going to try to build pods off my sail panels for a Seas DXT tweeter and 3" soft dome midrange so I can go active 3-way in the near future with my P800PRS feeding a MS-8.
> 
> I wish my wife was as understanding and supportive as yours. No chance I could gut my Pilot to do such a thorough dampening, though I would love to.
> 
> Have any new pics with the sub trim panel and carpeted deck in place?


Thank you, thank you, thank you! I don't have any pics of the finished hatch yet as I have been super lazy/recovering from being sick/adjusting to a new exercise program. I think Grendel potentially paying my car a visit in the near future will be the push I need to get it done! The thing is, I probably have less than 50 hours of work remaining, just need a kick in the ass to get it done!

Good luck with your project! I have no doubt you will do a fantastic job, just take your time and don't be afraid to start over if you make a mistake (I won't tell you how many attempts it took me to get the CF sail panels done correctly ).


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## onebadmonte

trevordj said:


> Thanks Hugo! You are the only one from the forum who has heard my setup so far, your feedback is much appreciated! How's work coming on the front midbass?


Its hard to critique your setup when you've done everything right. No joke my jaw was on the floor when you demo'ed Improvisation" by Ron Tutt of the Focal Sampler Disc. It was as if the guy was whaling the drums on the dash of the car.  The midbass is coming along, hoping to give your setup a run for its money. Haha.


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## BoilermakerFan

trevordj said:


> Good luck with your project! I have no doubt you will do a fantastic job, just take your time and don't be afraid to start over if you make a mistake (I won't tell you how many attempts it took me to get the CF sail panels done correctly ).


Thanks, I'm fortunate in that my sail panels are less than $4 each, so I plan to order two for each side just to have on hand.

I have zero chance of installing a center channel though unless I went really low in the center console. The MS-8 is good, but I don't think it's that good. Too narrow for a single ID horn too. Might see if I can do a quasi-horn transmission line via the little pocket under the single DIN dash kit. That would be a lot of glass horn work, but blue foam rigid insulation is cheap, but I'm not sure what driver would work with it.


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## trevordj

How about an update? 

It's been awhile since I have posted an honest to goodness hour by hour update to here it goes: 

Reaching way back to several weeks ago, I did the CF work for the sub beauty panel (which I already showed the result of... although I still haven't quite finished body working it). 

Started with body working the edges










all the gear










black tinted coat of resin down










CF on










in the process of trimming










Black paint to the edges










I already showed my process for cutting the aluminum trim ring. 

Here is the first mock up in the car










After a bunch of sanding, here is the almost finished result. I just need to do another quick coat of resin, body work and clear coat.


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## trevordj

Moving on, 

I attached some aluminum grill material to the cover panel with some staples. 










The cover panel was attached to the front mounting panel with a piano hinge










The front mount panel will be mounted to the amp rack with angle brackets. It's a bit of a contortion act mounting it, but it works. 










I mounted a gas shock the was purchased a few weeks back from McMaster-Carr (first I had to paint the body and brackets, it was pretty ragged from the factory)










Beauty panel trimmed to accomodate the shock 










Final mockup before upholstery










I am not quite finished yet. That panel with the shock going through it turned out to be an absolute bear to cover with grill cloth. I am abandoning that idea and will be covering it in carpeting instead. 

Anyway, here is how the hatch will look when it is all said and done. Hopefully I will have the hatch DONE tomorrow 










This represents 33 hours of work bringing the project total to 549 hours. Thanks for looking!


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## Duncan345

Looks great! FYI, my (amateur) build is coming up soon...

(psst)


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## Durry

wow...... this is one of my favorites cars... volvo c30....and with this sound setup..... ... you should visit puerto rico sometime (with the car of course) these car should be fun for everything....


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## IBcivic

^^^you should lay off the ''mota'':laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## scooter99

Very Nice! How did you figure out where to put the shock? I'm going to use these as well for a couple of things in my car and I'm wondering how I figure out size and strength but more so what angle or distance I install it at. Anyway, nicely done!


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## IBcivic

trevordj said:


> Moving on,
> 
> I attached some aluminum grill material to the cover panel with some staples.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cover panel was attached to the front mounting panel with a piano hinge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front mount panel will be mounted to the amp rack with angle brackets. It's a bit of a contortion act mounting it, but it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mounted a gas shock the was purchased a few weeks back from McMaster-Carr (first I had to paint the body and brackets, it was pretty ragged from the factory)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beauty panel trimmed to accomodate the shock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final mockup before upholstery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not quite finished yet. That panel with the shock going through it turned out to be an absolute bear to cover with grill cloth. I am abandoning that idea and will be covering it in carpeting instead.
> 
> Anyway, here is how the hatch will look when it is all said and done. Hopefully I will have the hatch DONE tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This represents 33 hours of work bringing the project total to 549 hours. Thanks for looking!


 did i say...shweet!!


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## don_chuwish

Very nice, I'm quite partial to piano hinge access flaps myself!

- D


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## trevordj

Thanks guys! Scooter, as far as the gas shock goes I just determined the maximum mounting distance I had available (in my case about 6") with the shock compressed. My options were pretty limited to miniature shocks in this case. Then, I just measured the weight of the panel with the panel at the shock's fully extended length. I rounded up and that's the force of shock I went with. In my case it worked out well until I upholstered the panel, now it is not quite strong enough to hold open the panel so I have to get a stronger spring. No big deal except it was a waste of $40. Live and learn I suppose. My recommendation would be to always get a stronger force shock than you think. 

ON a crappy note, I tried to get everything assembled in the hatch today and the panels aren't quite fitting properly after upholstery. I left 3/16" all around but still no go. I'm going to have to figure out how to make it work. For now, I will probably just leave it with the carpeted cover only.


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## trevordj

Today I put my talents to something much more worthwhile; pumpkin carving: 










Sorry if the second one offends anyone. I have been joking all week with my wife that I was going to do this and she didn't believe me. Well, here it is: 










Now I just need to sneak this out onto the front porch .


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## IBcivic

trevordj said:


> Today I put my talents to something much more worthwhile; pumpkin carving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if the second one offends anyone. I have been joking all week with my wife that I was going to do this and she didn't believe me. Well, here it is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to sneak this out onto the front porch .


you seem to be the kind of nut-job, i wish i had as a neighbor

nice job on the face carving.


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## subwoofery

trevordj said:


> Sorry if the second one offends anyone. I have been joking all week with my wife that I was going to do this and she didn't believe me. Well, here it is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to sneak this out onto the front porch .


Reminds me of









Kelvin


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## n_olympios

Nice job on the pumpkin carving. 


trevordj said:


> My recommendation would be to always get a stronger force shock than you think.


But always remember to not exceed a certain percentage of extra force, as there's the risk of the shock ripping the hinges off the wood (along with some of the wood too). Don't ask how I know.


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## fahrfrompuken

Wow Trevor. Great build. I wish I could have see the build and heard your system. My daughter however had other ideas. You left before i could. Hopefully you will be able to make it up to the next meet.


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## RRRRRR

Wow! Thanks for this post. True dedication, patience, and ingenuity. Inspiring, I was recently designing a system and was getting frustrated with all the options and decisions, almost gave up. But seeing this reminding me that what the fun is. Thanks! Looks great!


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## ecbmxer

I finally finished reading this whole thread and it's amazing. Great workmanship on everything and paying attention to details. I think I picked up some tips throughout that I can use on my future install. I plan on making very similar tweeter pods out of my sail panels also. The carbon fiber you used is not self adhesive like Nefty (spelling?) Wrap right? Or is that what you used? I will likely just paint mine black, but still. Can't wait to see the final hatch area!!


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## FLYONWALL9

ecbmxer said:


> The carbon fiber you used is not self adhesive like Nefty (spelling?) Wrap right?


Is this a new thing? last time I spoke with the guys at Neffy and
they gave me a list of glue to use......?


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## Kilted

JayinMI said:


> Wait until you're done. On the S60, I know that just removing the radio from the dash (not disconnecting it or anything) will trip an airbag code. No point paying to have it cleared more than once.
> 
> Jay


Hey guys,

I'm devouring this thread, page by page, and don't want to scan ahead to the present to see if this specific topic was addressed later.

I'm a Volvo driver (and physician) as well, and have been into the dash on several occasions, both in my XC70 and my S60R. In fact it is disconnecting the *climate control module *that generates the air bag error code, not disconnecting the HU. Just be sure to disconnect the ground from the battery before you start to tear the dash apart (including removal of the climate control module) and all will be well. Button it all up and reattach the ground to the battery. No worries.

And, Trevor, spectacular and ambitious build. It reads like a novel. 

I'm going for the less ambitious "short story" version of the audio upgrade in my R, but I salute you for your efforts.

-Todd


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## thetoner

Thank you kindly Trevor for killing three and a half hours of my life, putting me past the point of exhaustion as I need to be up in four hours for work and shattering any hope of putting together anything as clean cut looking as yours.

And it was all worth it. The build is gorgeous and I'm guessing it must sound amazing.

I recently started my electrician's apprenticeship and haven't touched anything car audio in a while. I started reading through the forums again maybe three days ago trying to do some research on anything and everything as I plan on tearing my new car down; an '02 Focus ZX3 as my first build. If you're still hanging around on the board and could spare a few posts, emails, PMs etc. of me picking your brain and how you accomplished certain things, that would be amazing. 

This thread is a great motivational tool and serves as inspiration like no other. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us and documenting it so well.

Toner

PS I apologize for the poor grammar and sentence structure, I'm hella tired.


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## rsxer63

Excellent pics... I am planning on doing my V70 T5 very soon and this thread gives me an idea what I am in for.


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## rsxer63

trevordj said:


> Some final teaser pics before unveiling them in the car tomorrow:
> 
> Satin clear coat applied, I will let them sit overnight to make sure they completely dry
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I REALLY like how the satin clear coat turned out on these. I am going to hold off doing any of my other panels until the stereo is done otherwise it will never be finished  .



Did you use a vacuum pump on them to get them to form so well?


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## trevordj

rsxer63 said:


> Did you use a vacuum pump on them to get them to form so well?


Hey, sorry for the delayed response, I don't come on the forums very often anymore. I did not use a vacuum, just a lot of patience and carefully working the CF. If I had it to do over again I just would have gotten the vacuum supplies, I ended up redoing everything a couple times to get it right. Trial and error has value though I suppose.


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## rsxer63

trevordj said:


> Hey, sorry for the delayed response, I don't come on the forums very often anymore. I did not use a vacuum, just a lot of patience and carefully working the CF. If I had it to do over again I just would have gotten the vacuum supplies, I ended up redoing everything a couple times to get it right. Trial and error has value though I suppose.


Well you did an excellent job!


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## Jaloosk

Finished pics?


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## screamatamonkey

Jaloosk said:


> Finished pics?


I've been wondering about that too.


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## req

im diggin the emotiva system in the garage. here is my home system










amazing install. great creativity and use of fiberglass!!


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## tuto's88t2

eF'n sick!!


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## douggiestyle

everytime I check back, this thread gets more epic. props!


----------



## kopeah

Very nice install ..


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## mine4118

wow!!!!


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## K03Sport

I figured since I looked at all 30 pages  I figure I would at least leave a response.

Mad props to trevordj for taking on such an endeavor. To take a brand new (under warranty) car and tear into as he did takes a strong conviction. I'm glad he was ble to accomplish his goals and hope he enjoys the car for a long time.

A few questions though:
- What was the decibel rating of the car before and after the application of the vibration/sound deadener material (while driving, radio off)?

- Approx how much weight did he add when the project was finally completed? (deadener, speakers, amps, wiring and panels adds up fast)

- Was the center channel speakers absolutely necessary? What benefit did they add that couldn't be accomplished by just the L/R fronts? Was it a sound stage issue?

Again, great stuff to the OP. Can't wait to read more build threads.

first post. :thumbsup:


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio

K03Sport said:


> A few questions though:
> - What was the decibel rating of the car before and after the application of the vibration/sound deadener material (while driving, radio off)?
> 
> - Approx how much weight did he add when the project was finally completed? (deadener, speakers, amps, wiring and panels adds up fast)
> 
> - Was the center channel speakers absolutely necessary? What benefit did they add that couldn't be accomplished by just the L/R fronts? Was it a sound stage issue?


I'm not the OP, but I will venture a guess at your questions:

1) if he had measured it, I think he would have posted numbers/details.

2) if he had weighed it, I think he would have posted numbers/details.

3) refer to #1 and #2.

Actually center channels have been discussed ad infinitum on the forum, many swear by them, others swear at them. Perhaps a matter of preference. Absolutely necessary? Absolutely not, unless you have ears on your forehead. That said, they still may help anchor the center image if done correctly. They _can_ also destroy the depth of an otherwise good soundstage. I think Trevor hit the nail on the head with this build, but YMMV.


----------



## hugo23

Trevor, I just want to say congratulations on the Great job. Your install is one of those that inspire you to go beyond your were going to. I really appreciate the time you took to show us the details on your build and of course your Photograph skills helped a lot 

I've being wondering about my new install since january that I got my new car, asking myself if I can live with the stock system until the car's warranty is off, so now I can answer... NO  so the install begins as soon as I have all the equipment (I still need a new sub and some Dynamat).

I hope you are enjoying the car. 
Saludos desde México.


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## BamaJohn

Just finished the whole thread. EPIC install. Great job on all, wish I had 1/100th of those skills and patience. Makes me want a C30!


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## Carochas

Great installation!! I whope you enjoy it for a long long time ;D


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## trevordj

Thank you all for you nice compliments! I have been laying low on the forums lately just because I don't want to get any crazy ideas to change anything in the car . In all seriousness, I have had all the gear in for some time now. I rock out everyday and the setup still puts a smile on my face. In my opinion, it sounds and looks perfect. I wouldn't change a thing. 

Cheers all!


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## Carochas

If you want to change you can always send me this parts to Portugal.

Just kidding ;D


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## RedAggie03

Amazing! Great log, I enjoyed every page.


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## scooter99

trevordj said:


> Thank you all for you nice compliments! I have been laying low on the forums lately just because I don't want to get any crazy ideas to change anything in the car . In all seriousness, I have had all the gear in for some time now. I rock out everyday and the setup still puts a smile on my face. In my opinion, it sounds and looks perfect. I wouldn't change a thing.
> 
> Cheers all!


So glad to hear you say that. It's nice to sit back and actually enjoy a finished project. One day I'll get there. I'm barely beginning my audio. I've been working on performance for the majority thus far.


----------



## HondAudio

Robin W. said:


> try this:
> McMaster-Carr
> Not sure if the link will work but it's item #91253A014
> 
> I've never found a common screw they didn't carry, they are often more expensive than the rest though.


Ace has a pretty big selection, but they're outrageously expensive at the by-the-piece price. There's a small hardware chain here in Phoenix called Copper State Nut & Bolt. I got some 8-32x1.5" socket cap head screws for something like 11 cents each. They're 70 cents at Ace, and not even available at Lowes or Home Depot :surprised:

P.S.: Holy 10-months-later replies, Batman!


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## doitor

Hey Trevor, check your pm's.
I'm traveling to your neck of the woods soon and would love to demo your car.

J.


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## brackac

Outstanding. This type of passion is why I got involved in car audio 20+ years ago.


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## m0sdef

This build was just awesome!!! Great work! Wish I could do some fabricating like that


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## stream

Awesome worklog. 
*trevordj* has mad skills!


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## fioravanti

I just finished reading this huge thread from start to finish. It is an incredible project with fantastic design (both audio and aesthetic), fabrication and implementation. It really shows that you have spent over 500 hours on this project. The attention to detail is inspiring, and I am especially impressed by the prefessional approach to all aspects of the installation, especially cable terminations. 

Hopefully you are happy with it now that it is completed.


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## Ianaconi

Awesome. No finished pics?


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## trevordj

Hey guys, thanks again for all the great feedback. Doiter, I am really sorry we didn't get a chance to meet up, I haven't been on here in several months and didn't see your messages until just now. Ianaconi, I will snap a few shots of the finished hatch and post them up. I actuallyneed to clean my car this weekend anyway so I will do that and take some much needed final pictures of the whole car. I am still just enjoying the system every day. After almost a year I have still had absolutely no problems. The MS-8 has been set and forget for me. I was going to do a fancy mount for the controller but I never use the thing. So, I am just happy with it!


----------



## scooter99

That's great to hear Trevor! I'm excited to get to that point where I can get my stuff in, set the system up and be happy with it. Props to you, BRAVO!! Must make you feel proud to have a system you did and haven't had any problems with. That's what this game is about! Way to go!


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## TJ Mobile Audio

BrotherZ said:


> Much mass installation. Congratulations!


Dude, you are posting so much faster than you can read, or type intelligently for that matter. You in a hurry to get your 50 posts or what?


----------



## req

awesome job T.

looking forward to the finished pictures!


----------



## Alejandro

Hey Trevor, all I really have to say is- what an awe inspiring build you have accomplished! I really admire the fact that you're a physician, as I'm on the same route to doing so- with this as a full time hobby. Lol. Anyways, quick question... What do you think of those Arc KS amps so far? Are they worth all the hype sound quality wise? Keep up the good work. I hope you're reaping the benefits of such a meticulously thoughrough build!


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## trevordj

Sorry for the delayed response Alejandro, I don't come on here very much anymore. The arc amps are perfect and, in my opinion, sound exactly as amplifiers should.... like nothing! There is no system noise at all and the MS-8 takes care of the rest. If the amps do color the noise I would never know. They are powerful and, so far, reliable. The customer support I received from Arc was second to none. They fixed the blown amplifier for free even though I purchased it second hand. On top of that, they actually upgraded some of the caps in the amplifier! Great company.


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## phryed

Amazing install, thanks for sharing.


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## dummptyhummpty

What an amazing install! Thank you for sharing.

Regarding the connectors you used, were they crimped or soldered? Thanks!


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## customtronic

Very nicely done!


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## brackac

I'm amazed by the attention to detail.


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## ebrahim

Love the ride. How are those subwoofers? I have never heard them in action but just curious though.

Thank you sir.





trevordj said:


> Last weekend I started an installation in my 2010 Volvo C30. This build log will serve to document the progress of said installation. I believe this is the first C30 to show up on here.
> 
> A disclaimer: I like to think that I know what I am doing but in reality, I do not. I have been lurking on this site for almost a year trying to absorb as much information as I can and pretending to know something every once in a while. While I have done several installations for myself and friends I am afraid my skills are nowhere near many on this forum. In short, I am very intimidated. However, I am willing to risk public humiliation to keep my installation honest. I welcome all respectful criticisms and suggestions as, first and foremost, I am here to learn (hopefully without destroying my car).
> 
> I will post updates as I complete the build. Unfortunately I will be limited to 2-3 weekends a month to devout to this as I am a physician and end up taking weekend call 1-2 times/month. In short, this will not happen overnight.
> 
> Some shameless pics of the car:


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## trevordj

ebrahim said:


> Love the ride. How are those subwoofers? I have never heard them in action but just curious though.
> 
> Thank you sir.



The subs are outstanding. I have had everything in for over 1 1/2 years now and haven't had to do anything to the car since tuning it with the MS-8. The sound I get out of this setup still brings a smile to my face every day.


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## vbman11

Trevor I love how clean all your wiring is! I was wondering where you get your speaker wire/conectors etc?


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## trevordj

It has been a long time since I updated this build log, but this will be the last one. I traded this car in for a 2013 Honda Accord about 2 months ago. I LOVED this car and got about 2 years of use out of the stereo without ever having an issue. About 2 days after I traded the car in I got an email on this forum from a person who was flying to San Antonio to purchase the car.

On to the next one . I learned a ton from this installation and will be approaching my next one somewhat differently. I actually really tried to be content with the stock system in the new Accord, but that just will not fly. 

I will be posting a new build log soon.


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## IBcivic

Yay!









Looking fwd for your next build


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## subwoofery

trevordj said:


> It has been a long time since I updated this build log, but this will be the last one. I traded this car in for a 2013 Honda Accord about 2 months ago. I LOVED this car and got about 2 years of use out of the stereo without ever having an issue. About 2 days after I traded the car in I got an email on this forum from a person who was flying to San Antonio to purchase the car.
> 
> On to the next one . I learned a ton from this installation and will be approaching my next one somewhat differently. I actually really tried to be content with the stock system in the new Accord, but that just will not fly.
> 
> I will be posting a new build log soon.


You're aware that the center console in the Accord won't hold a 7" midbass, right? 

Kelvin


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## trevordj

subwoofery said:


> You're aware that the center console in the Accord won't hold a 7" midbass, right?
> 
> Kelvin


Oh yes it will . I've been doing some measuring :evilgrin:.

In reality I will be going a little more simple this time around, using DIY drivers and a 2 way front stage. I can't go back from having a deicated full range center channel. That will be the hard part, but I will be able to make it work. 

The hardest part will be convincing my wife to let me spend another small fortune.


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## wdemetrius1

Did you trade the car in with all of the equipment still installed?


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## trevordj

Ya, it would have been too much work to uninstall everything. I know it didn't add much to the trade in value of the car but I still got a reasonable deal on everything. It was tough to see it go though.


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## JVD240

Thanks for wasting my morning at work.

My boss also says thanks.

Super cool build. Glad you bumped this up!


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## deaddog

Wow - what a fantastic build! But I wonder whether anybody has any experience upgrading the stock C30 system in a much simpler manner - maybe just drop in new speakers in the stock spaces and add an amp? I'm looking at a 2011 that I'm going to keep only for a year or two so I don't want to go crazy on it in terms of either time or money - any suggestions?

thanks


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## quietfly

Amazing..... thank you for sharing that great build!


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## trevordj

deaddog said:


> Wow - what a fantastic build! But I wonder whether anybody has any experience upgrading the stock C30 system in a much simpler manner - maybe just drop in new speakers in the stock spaces and add an amp? I'm looking at a 2011 that I'm going to keep only for a year or two so I don't want to go crazy on it in terms of either time or money - any suggestions?
> 
> thanks


The stock system sounds pretty good actually. I have heard both the stock Dynaudio version and just the "high performance" version (the only other option in the US). If you are looking for a more simple upgrade you could tap the front speakers high outputs to run a subwoofer amp and subwoofer. Or, if you wanted to get a little more fancy you could install the ms-8 and use it to run all the stock speakers and add a subwoofer and amp off the ms-8. The options are endless, that is just two thoughts. I wouldn't simply replace the stock speaker just because though, I don't think that will get you very far.


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## santiagodraco

Just saw this thread, what an amazing build. Very educational and humbling... as well as motivating.

I don't think I'll be tackling the major build stuff myself at this point but I'll be working on all of the sound deadening that you've done for sure. I may spend some time on the doors, possibly, but the amp/sub install I'll have to leave to a pro. But your build is very similar to what I was hoping to do, hiding everything in the rear deck with the spare removed. Have a total of 1.8 cf to work with. Planning to fill that with one Morel Ultimo SE, an Alpine PDX V9 and a PXA-H800 (provided I can find an extension for the RUX remote to reach the front windshield/rearview mirror area.

I was wondering how much of a difference in external noise you felt after all of the deadening? I have the CLD and dampeners but was thinking of the Luxury Liner Pro as well, if it's effective.

Thanks and great work!


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## trevordj

Its hard to say. The car was very quiet, but I cannot really remember what it was like before the sound deadening. I should have taken measurements. I probably wouldn't do the roof again just because it was such a pain in the ass.


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## santiagodraco

Yeah I think I'll avoid the roof myself. The car is rattle free now but I fear introducing issues by pulling off panels if not necessary.

So how's the system sounding for you? I was curious how the back looks finished, I might have missed them but I don't think you posted any shots of the back complete?


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## trevordj

Ya, I just ended up covering the back with a carpeted panel and calling it a day. I sold the car a few months ago and will be starting a new project in my Honda Accord in the next few months.


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## waldojeffershead

I can't believe you didn't go with dynaudio tweeters. Dr. Kurt Muller only makes tweeters in my opinion. Even my 2k V70 came stock with them, and I've never settled for anything less. I'd like to try Morel mt-23s, but again, why not go with the tried and true. I've tried the a/d/s 3-series, and the JL c5, md102


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## trevordj

waldojeffershead said:


> I can't believe you didn't go with dynaudio tweeters. Dr. Kurt Muller only makes tweeters in my opinion. Even my 2k V70 came stock with them, and I've never settled for anything less. I'd like to try Morel mt-23s, but again, why not go with the tried and true. I've tried the a/d/s 3-series, and the JL c5, md102


You are going to cringe at the choices I made for my next build then, I'm going with some Vifa XT25s for that one.


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## quietfly

did you start a build log for the next one yet?


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## trevordj

Not yet, I'm gathering equipment/supplies/knowledge currently so I can start. I just put in an order for about $700 worth of composite supplies from US composites. I'm hoping to really use my next build to properly learn how to do composite layups. With that in mind I also will be putting together a vacuum setup, I just ordered all the parts for that too. 

First things first I am building a proper workbench (actually a couple workbenches) for my garage this weekend. This entire volvo build was done on a sheet of plywood propped over a couple saw horses. I want to get my workspace setup so I can focus more on the quality of the build. 

After all of that I will post a new build log. Right now it would just be a picture of the car and a list of the gear I will be putting in it. I am excited for my choices though, it should be a fun learning experience.


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## Coppertone

I for one would be very happy to see a photo of the car that replaced that legendary Volvo of yours.


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## Rebsiont

nice project dude


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## PLANETARY

WOW! Excellent work! Amazing that you let it go so soon.


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## chiragh

@trevordj .. i have some queries as am am about to ICE my volvo S60II ( normal audio )

1. Was it not possible to pass the wires through stock molex plugs ? 
2. Have you taken inputs for processor from both front and rear channels of stock amplifier ( sorry i have skipped reading it ) ?? . 
3. Is your parking beep sound still working , if yes how did you connect new speakers to it . 



your replies will be of great help !


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## hobie1dog

trevordj said:


> . I sold the car a few months ago and will be starting a new project in my Honda Accord in the next few months.


Are you going to use the new improved BM Mk IV woofers that will arrive in January?


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## chiragh

waiting for your reply trevordj !


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## quality_sound

He hasn't replied in almost 8 months. You're probably going to be waiting a while.


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## JayinMI

Try sending him a private message, or post in his Honda Accord thread where he is more likely to see it. He is still on from time to time, so he might get back to you.

Jay


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## chiragh

done that but no response .. can only wait !


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## kahouse82

Excellent work! looks amazing. I am going to be starting a large build next week for my new Scion xB and was wondering if you found adding the MLV helped to reduce road noise in your car, thanks for the help!


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