# Honda Ridgeline Build



## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I have been meaning to start a build thread for months. About the time I get ready to start the thread, I decide to change something and obsolete the pictures that I had already taken. Decided that there are at least a few things that are not going to change on the install so I can get something started. 

Before I get started with pictures, let me way this: I worked in 12V as a salesman and manager for about 7-8 years. I am not a professional installer. It is a good thing, because I would be a broke installer 'cause I am so stinkin' slow!

My goal with this installation is to have it meet or exceed competition requirements which would allow me to compete down the road if I ever get it finished. 

My system currently (subject to change!) consists of:

Kenwood double Din DVD
Zapco DSP-6
Tru S45's (two)
Dynaudio MW182's I love these midbasses!
Dynaudo MD142
Alpine F#1 tweeters (Scan speak)
Sound Splinter 10" in a sealed enclosure (caulk is drying as I write)

OK, enough of the talk, here are some pics.

Power - The ridgeline really does not have a good place to get power from the engine compartment to the rear of the truck. So I decided to use caraflex flexible conduit and run it under the chassis in up under the rear seats. Not my idea, stole it from Arcuhtek on this forum. Thanks!

Under the hood - note that I have since techflexed the exposed end of the wire.










under the truck










underside of truck entry to rear - note that metal was repainted to ensure the drilled metal will not rust. Watertight seal.










entry under rear seat










circuit breaker mounted to battery tray with techflexed wire to battery attached.










Next up is an example of one of my speaker cables. Each cable for each individual speaker has a different color heat shrink. I put a printed label over the heat shrink with clear heat shrink over top of that.

The cable is 12 ga twisted pair from Kicker. That was some tough stuff to get into the doors! (pics on that later).











OK, that's a start. More to come.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I made the baffles for the midbass out of King Starboard. This is an HDPE plastic. It cuts and machines a lot like mdf. No worries about moisture damaging the material. It holds a threaded insert very well. First pic is of the baffle during insertion of the threaded insert via drill press.










while I was at it, I coated in the inside of the door skins liberally with Cascade Audio Engineering VBmax. I covered the entire inside door skin, thin cut more of the material into 6" and 4" squares and overlapped to create varying density all over the door. No idea if this really makes a difference with regards to Q, but I had enough material to do it, so why not?










Baffle mounted on door. Note that I bolted the baffle to the door with counter sunk pan head bolts. Speakers mount to threaded inserts. Note the 12" deflex pad behind the opening. Note all of the scratches on the door metal where I had to peel and scrape to get Fatmat off the doors. Tried to go cheap on the sound deadener and had to do it over. Learned my lesson.










After bolting the baffle to the door, covered the door with CAE VB2HD. I really like this stuff. Very flexible. Was able to wrap it around the baffle and seal it. This pic was taken prior to trimming the VB2 from the facing edge of the baffle.










driver's door prior to deflex pad, but showing the techflexed and heat shrink 12 ga speaker wire to the midbass


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Looking like some VERY clean work so far. I'll be looking forward to seeing the rest of your work. Keep it up!


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## liljojo4711 (Oct 11, 2008)

very nice


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks Boosted!

Midrange in the passenger kick. What you don't see here is that I had to move the computer that resides in that kick panel to get the mid to fit. I am not happy with the severe off axis placement on the mids, especially in the driver's side. It takes a LOT of EQ to get the driver's side and passenger side to sound similar and image correctly. Sound is very good, but I am shooting for great. I plan on moving these to the A-pillars and doing some custom pillars, but have not started yet.


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## CAMSHAFT (Apr 7, 2006)

Very nice sir!! I like what I see!!!


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

rockinridgeline said:


> Thanks Boosted!
> 
> Midrange in the passenger kick. What you don't see here is that I had to move the computer that resides in that kick panel to get the mid to fit. I am not happy with the severe off axis placement on the mids, especially in the driver's side. It takes a LOT of EQ to get the driver's side and passenger side to sound similar and image correctly. Sound is very good, but I am shooting for great. I plan on moving these to the A-pillars and doing some custom pillars, but have not started yet.


I have a ridgeline also and i have tried to get good imaging with the kicks and to put it simply "it aint gonna work" unless you consider loosing the dead pedal and build a FG pod that resides between the parking brake pedal and the brake pedal i have mine pointed towards the center of the roof and near the edge of the sunroof. I've had dome mids and cone mids in the kicks and i think the center console has something to do with the poor imaging from the kicks so i finally built some pods that attach to the carpet


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Hey 2167. Thanks for the feedback. When I first put some equipment in the truck and had the mids in a small baffle, I played around with placement. It's easy to do with these mids since they don't need an enclosure. The very best imaging was when I had the driver mid aimed right at my left ear. Problem is that would be extremely intrusive.

I like the dead pedal and would rather not give it up. Plus, I don't like the idea of kicking an expensive midrange that does NOT have a replaceable grille. So I am going to give a-pillars a try. I've played around with it a bit and think the sound will improve a lot. We'll see.


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## KMelt (Jan 19, 2009)

Looking great so far. That is a nice equipment line-up and look forward to more pics.


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## jsun_g (Jun 12, 2008)

Great work so far and nice components! IMHO to have a successful midrange setup in the kicks, drivers need to be more on axis and placed as close to the boundary of the vehicle as possible, even cutting metal in the KP area to mount the driver partially inside. Good luck on the A-pillar setup. I would like to have the option of doing mids up high, but in my car I just don't have enough space...barely enough for a tweeter pod to squeeze in.




rockinridgeline said:


> Thanks Boosted!
> 
> Midrange in the passenger kick. What you don't see here is that I had to move the computer that resides in that kick panel to get the mid to fit. I am not happy with the severe off axis placement on the mids, especially in the driver's side. It takes a LOT of EQ to get the driver's side and passenger side to sound similar and image correctly. Sound is very good, but I am shooting for great. I plan on moving these to the A-pillars and doing some custom pillars, but have not started yet.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

adding some new more pics

Note that some of this work is temporary just to be able to use the system while I continue to work on it and get it to competition level.

the sub box with the sound splinter sub test fit (no rubber gasket on the sub for the test fit to align the holes. 










sub with the rubber gasket










box just barely fits under the rear seat










mid in the kick










Tru amps and zapco processor. Note that if you look real close, you can see that I still have some work to do. Need to Tech flex a few of the wires. I also have a temp rca jack in there for the sub input because my double din is in the shop and I am using an old radio with a single rca out and some y adapters. Long term I will have the amps on a custom rack with a cover over the amps, cutouts for the top of the amps to breathe, and edge lit plexi. This simple board with low-end carpet just gives me a solid mount in the car for now until I can devote a couple of days to going for a much more custom look. 





































Feel free to chime in if you have an suggestions for improvement, etc. Thanks.


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## HyperAnimeSpeed (Jan 31, 2009)

Wow. Nice job on the install! I especially like the seal tight in the engine bay with the 90 degree connector through the firewall. Keep up the good work! ^_^


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Clean!


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

Looks very nice man


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## Complacent_One (Jul 2, 2009)

Simple...to the point, looks great!!


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks guys. Anybody know how to get a screen print to save as a picture so I can post it?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

control+alt+print screen

then paste that into MS paint or whatever image program you use.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks Erin. Duh, I forgot I had "paint" on this computer.

After spending a couple of hours tuning I made some serious headway into getting a real nice soundstage. I was going to post a pic of the RTA screenshot but lost. When I opened TrueRTA and turned on the pink noise with NO MICROPHONE connected, this is what I get. Any body have an idea why I would be getting this curve when there is no mic plugged in?

I use a Behringer 8000 and micmate USB


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

your laptop is likely picking up noise via it's recorder. I don't really know how/why this works, but mine does it, too, with no mic. I have to switch over the audio settings for my m-audio external card.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

rockinridgeline said:


> I made the baffles for the midbass out of King Starboard. This is an HDPE plastic. It cuts and machines a lot like mdf. No worries about moisture damaging the material. It holds a threaded insert very well. First pic is of the baffle during insertion of the threaded insert via drill press.


What kind of threaded inserts did you use? I've seen some that are suggested for wood, and sone for plastics. I was hoping I could just grab the ones I saw at Lowe's, since I don't want to wait for them to ship...

Jay


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Those inserts were probably made for wood, but work just fine in the starboard material. It is just a matter of drilling the correct size hole. I also recommend using a drill press to put them in. That helped keep them perpendicular to the front surface of the baffle.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Where did you get yours? I've seen them on McMaster-Carr, but they come in packs of like 100.

Jay


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Got them at a local mom and pop hardware store. One of those that has been in the same building downtown for 50 years or so. HD and Lowes didn't have them. I can't remember the name of the manufacturer.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

These are the kind of insert nuts that I used. I did not pay anywhere near that price at the local HW store, but maybe this link will help you find them. 

General Fasteners: Barnhill Bolt Co., Inc.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Also found that Lowe's has them, although I was not able to find them locally before, the web site says they are in stock. You can plug in your zip code on this web page and find out if they are stocked.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=wood+insert+nuts


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks!

Jay


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## xxx_busa (May 4, 2009)

Tony awesome install, I'm almost done buying the amp's Zapco's I have 2 sofar, and the MW170 and still trying to figure out how to go active. yours sure looks good, 
take care Mark


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks Mark. Glad to hear it is coming together for you. With fall coming I should have some time to actually wrap up my install. If I could just quit changing equipment every few weeks!!!


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## moosejuice (Oct 5, 2007)

Very nicely layed out install, I really like the power cable routing...


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## Gerrys (Aug 24, 2009)

Nice work, look like very clean. Congratulations


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## 2wheelie (Jul 30, 2009)

Great install, I really love the detail work!

I'm thinking of buying a Ridgeline. Have a few questions if I may...

How much room is behind the rear seat for an amp rack? What kind of gas mileage do you really get? How do you like the Ridge so far? Thanks.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

There is a factory sub enclosure behind the seat that would fit an amp. Other than that, I have not really looked at how much room there is behind the seats. My impression is that it is pretty tight.

I love the truck, except for the mileage. You would think that a six would get better mileage, but I only get about 17 to the gallon.

Lots of room, especially in the back. I was just in a friend's Tahoe and noticed that I have more room in the back seat than he does in his Tahoe.

Thing I like the most about the Ridgeline is that it drives more like a car than a truck. It is enough like a truck for what I need it for, without being stiff and sitting up as high as a typical 4wd truck. I am very happy with it and plan to drive it for a long time.


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## 2wheelie (Jul 30, 2009)

I've always liked the Ridgeline, especially how wide it is. There is a lot of innovative stuff going on in there and Honda executed it well. My ONLY issue with it (and why I've waited) is the lack of a V8. It's a big, heavy beast and would probably get better mileage with the 8cyl.


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

Behind rear seat is about 5 inches at the bottom, in the typical wedge


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

With regards to gas mileage, the way I look at it is this: If I was really worried about mileage, I wouldn't be driving a truck every day to begin with. If you drive 12K miles per year, the difference between 17 mpg and 20 mpg (what you get on a good v8), is 105 gallons x $2.5 per gallon = $262 per year. For $262 per year I say drive the truck that you like.

I love the cargo area under the bed. It is the perfect place for my golf clubs, tools, etc and completely out of the way. I have a fiberglass topper on mine. It makes for a pretty cool look. I have had a ton of people ask me when Honda started making a new full size SUV before they see that it is a Ridgeline.


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## 2wheelie (Jul 30, 2009)

Good point Rock. 

I like that well also. I always wondered what people did when it snows and fills the bed up though? You can't get into the rear well, right? Do you know if a tonneau cover exists for the Ridge?


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Yeah, you can get simple roll up tonneau covers for a few hundred, and sophisticated locking covers with built-in tie downs, etc for all the way up to a thousand.

I bought mine used and it came with a Leer Cap. I wasn't looking for the cap, but after having it I really like it. I don't have a pic of my truck here ATM but here is what one looks like: http://www.leer.com/images/hondalocation2.jpg

Regarding the build log: Mass loaded vinyl arrived last night, foam on the way. Will be taking a few days off soon and tearing the entire interior out.


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## 2wheelie (Jul 30, 2009)

Cap looks good. Can't wait to see the rest of this build...


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## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

any updates?


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Nice install- I miss my ridge tremendously!

There is plenty of room behind the seat for all the electronics. I had my JL 500.5 back there as well as the HUGE A/D/S passive crossovers. If I were to get another Ridge in the future, I would try to squeeze everything behind the seat... but that is now that I am comfortable with using fiberglass to mold to the back wall countours and get the most out of the enclosure volume. I had my dual 8" firing down under the seat.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Very nicely installed. +1 on use of the HDPE or similar plastics instead of MDF/Wood etc.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys. Probably a couple of weeks away from diving into the custom a pillars and posting some updates. Also have mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam sitting in the garage. Need to score some CLD to finish up the sound proofing part of the install. Slow going right now with a lot going on at work, church, coaching flag football, etc. Priorities, priorities.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

not a lot of build activity lately, but been gathering a lot of pieces and parts to finish things off. Got some Second skin CLD to handle resonance for the floorpan from a diyma member, a streetwires cbr44m, some streetwire compression ring terminals, more techflex, a ground terminal, etc. Lots of goodies to finish off everything under the carpet. After that I'll get going on some custom dash pods.

worked on my first custom RCA's tonight. Went with Dayton Mic cable, 2 conductor with a full braid shield. Tying the shield into ground at the source and open at the other end, so they will will all be directional cables. The source side has a small amount of clear heat shrink at the base of the barrel over the techflex.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

so you are grounding your shield to the barrel at your headunit (at the source). never thought of not groundin them for directional cables. sweet man.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

As noted previously, made all of my rca cables using 2 conductor mic cable, grounding the shield to the barrel at the source along with the 2nd conductor, shield left ungrounded at the amp input. Real nice Dayton locking RCA's and silver solder with some tech flex and I have some real nice home made cables that were fun to make at the kitchen table with my son.

I am running the zapco balanced cable from the line driver at the HU to the processor for now. all of output from the dsp6 goes through din to rca adapters, then to the new RCA cables and to the amps.

After talking to Zapco several weeks ago, I set the output of the line driver all the way up. Sounded better, more dynamic. BUT, after I buttoned up the dash and started the car, I found I had some ignition noise. Very faint, but VERY high pitched and annoying on the freeway. Have not had time to adjust the output of the line driver to see what happens.

so last night I slapped in the new RCAS, turned the system on...........







*NO NOISE!!!!!!*

I know a lot of guys are going to tell me that I am full of crap, it is all resistance, capacitance, inductance... but I don't care, these cables made my system sound better. Listened to Alison Krauss "forget about it" CD and there is more ambiance, more subtle HF detail. Sounds good to me, and looks sweet too. That is all that matters.


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## wheelieking71 (Dec 20, 2006)

nice! lovin the TRUs and zapco. awsome gear. nice install, really cool.


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## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

how much modding/ build-up did you have to do to squeeze the DYNS' in the door...


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

It wasn't too tough to got the Dyns in. I used a spacer ring. I think it is 3/4" but am not at home to verify that. This gives plenty of clearance for the magnet structure. To get clearance on the front side of the speaker, I used a grinder and removed the ridges in the plastic on the back of the door card at the speaker opening.

Just spent a couple of days putting in closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. Amazing how quiet the truck is now, especially the drop in tire noise. Working on a different layout for the amps and processor. Will post pics when I get some time.


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## don_chuwish (Oct 29, 2009)

Love the VB-2HD, much cleaner look than a foil backed butyl and does a nice job of sealing up the panel. I've used the VB-2 and liked it, nice to see the thicker HD is just as workable.

- D


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## 3fish (Jul 12, 2009)

rockinridgeline said:


> As noted previously, made all of my rca cables using 2 conductor mic cable, grounding the shield to the barrel at the source along with the 2nd conductor, shield left ungrounded at the amp input. Real nice Dayton locking RCA's and silver solder with some tech flex and I have some real nice home made cables that were fun to make at the kitchen table with my son.
> 
> I am running the zapco balanced cable from the line driver at the HU to the processor for now. all of output from the dsp6 goes through din to rca adapters, then to the new RCA cables and to the amps.
> 
> ...


Did you burn in your cables before installing them or are these new-found musical cues coming right from your freshly made cable?


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## 3fish (Jul 12, 2009)

liljojo4711 said:


> very nice



Subscribed to your thread. Waiting to watch your a-pillar work for mids and tweet. I've a honda element and will be doing a-pillar reword from stock location and plan on using patrick bateman's $2 improve soundstage tutorial. 


Where did you buy you king starboard? I've found supplier on ebay but cost is 'not' inexpensive.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

3fish said:


> Subscribed to your thread. Waiting to watch your a-pillar work for mids and tweet. I've a honda element and will be doing a-pillar reword from stock location and plan on using patrick bateman's $2 improve soundstage tutorial.
> 
> 
> Where did you buy you king starboard? I've found supplier on ebay but cost is 'not' inexpensive.


I went to a local boat builder and basically purchased scraps from them. Their business is way down (Nobody buying $100K boats right now) so they are happy to make a buck on just about anything.


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## tinctorus (Oct 5, 2009)

2wheelie said:


> I've always liked the Ridgeline, especially how wide it is. There is a lot of innovative stuff going on in there and Honda executed it well. My ONLY issue with it (and why I've waited) is the lack of a V8. It's a big, heavy beast and would probably get better mileage with the 8cyl.


Aside from that my only issue with it is the fact that it's a front wheel drive "truck" it shares the platform with the odysey minivan to my knowledge or at least the same drivetrain

Which for me makes it not as useful for hauling a boat or another car since bringing a boat down a loading ramp I think the front wheels would spin trying to pull the boat out


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

It will pull a boat no problem as long as it is within the payload capacity. Keep in mind that it is an all wheel drive vehicle with the front being the main wheels. The all wheel drive traction control works very, very well. I have stomped on it on icy roads and the computer "nanny" accelerates and keeps it tracking straight. I found it to be superior the the 4 wheel drive on my Jeep in that situation, and better than the AWD on my Infinity SUV.


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## tinctorus (Oct 5, 2009)

rockinridgeline said:


> It will pull a boat no problem as long as it is within the payload capacity. Keep in mind that it is an all wheel drive vehicle with the front being the main wheels. The all wheel drive traction control works very, very well. I have stomped on it on icy roads and the computer "nanny" accelerates and keeps it tracking straight. I found it to be superior the the 4 wheel drive on my Jeep in that situation, and better than the AWD on my Infinity SUV.


Oh really???

I never realized they came with 4 wheel drive I was always under the impression it was FWD only

Ok so it may not be something unusable to me afterall


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Awesome looking install. Simple, yet nicely done. 

I am sure you enjoy it, wish I could take a listen.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

rockinridgeline said:


> I went to a local boat builder and basically purchased scraps from them. Their business is way down (Nobody buying $100K boats right now) so they are happy to make a buck on just about anything.


Really J Boat maybe? Got any extras,just noticed you were using Dynaudio didn't know that and I also have Tru AMPS amps for my SUV... Maybe we need to meet and talk one day


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

DAT said:


> Really J Boat maybe? Got any extras,just noticed you were using Dynaudio didn't know that and I also have Tru AMPS amps for my SUV... Maybe we need to meet and talk one day


Kentuckiana Yacht Sales Boat Sales | New and used Regal boats, Carver Yachts, Jefferson Yachts, Sport Yachts, Zodiac inflatables, Nautique ski boats | Kentuckiana Yacht Sales, Jeffersonville, Indiana

I do have one small piece left over. Not sure on the size though.

Yeah, I would love to check out your system. Although watching you the last couple of months, seems like it changes about every other week!

Send me a PM if you have a free day.


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

I thought the rigeline was a pilot drive train wise


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## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

OP:
Do have detailed pics running through the door molex?
I was wondering if you could fit a 12ga and a 16ga
or just two 14ga through there easily.

ARE YOU REALLY GOING WITH THE SI BM SUBS,
PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR OPINIONS.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I got a 12 ga through there and it is pretty tight. Had to drill out the bottom of the molex plug. Not much room at all. I thought I took pictures. I changed laptops recently and they may be on the old laptop.

It is a bear getting the wire through the kick and into the rubber grommet. You want to get the molex disconnected at the door first so you can run a fishtape through the kick and into the rubber grommet. Once you get it to pop through you can pull your wire. 

Yes, I am going with the SI BM and will post up a review as soon as I have it in, along with the 60 or so other DIYMA guys that are getting one!

Got visitors from China in town all week or I would try to go into greater detail on the door deal. I'll look for pics this weekend and see if I can offer some more info.


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