# 2010 Dodge Ram Alpine RER stereo system upgrade / wiring harness diagrams



## Chadzilla500 (Jun 30, 2008)

I am starting this post to help others trying who are trying to upgrade their factory 10 speaker Alpine RER system, but keep the factory deck.

After doing TONS of research on this horrible sounding (in my opinion) stereo system. I decided to upgrade.

I had originally tried to add just a Bazooka BTA8100 tube via the high level inputs taken from the sub (it sounded like crap) I then upgraded the speakers (Boston pro50SE's in the front and Focal 690CV's in the rear) That mod actually made a huge difference in sound. If you only wanted to upgrade your dash/door speakers and didn't really care about bass, some nice 6x9s and 3.5s it would be well worth it.

For me though...this was not enough. It still lacked bass and I couldn't use the tweeters in my component speakers unless I wanted to put them in the dash where the 3.5" speakers were. Ive read that several people have tried that and it sounded crappy and echoed off the windshield. TIME TO UPGRADE AGAIN!

Ordered a Peripheral PCH8 summing/line output converter and an Alpine PDX-5 amplifier. **I had originally planned on using the PDX's 5th channel (300w) to run two 12" subs in a custom box, but after hearing how the factory sub sounded with some nuts behind it and the 8" Bazooka, I felt it was more than enough bass (plus it doesn't really take up any space and I get to keep the floor storage compartments.) 
If i had to do it over again I probably would have bought an Alpine PDX-4.150 and ran two sets of Boston Acoustics components Pro60SE's for the rear and Pro50SE's for the front in conjunction with a Bazooka BTA8250D**

Already had these installed. 

3. Boston Acoustics Pro50SE 5.25" Component speakers. (front)
4. Focal 690 CV 6x9 speakers (rear)
5. Bazooka BTA8100 amplified bass tube. 

I work at a salvage yard and we had a 2009 Ram crew 1500 with the Alpine RER system that came in wrecked in the front. I was lucky enough to be able to dissect and check the polarities on ALL the speakers/amp so I didn't have to tear my truck apart. 

Mounting the speakers in the rear doors, I needed 1/2" spacers for the 6x9s and in the front doors mounted the 1" tweeters in the upper door trim panel triangle in the front doors.

I left the headliner speakers and the center dash speaker stock. Took the LH and RH dash speaker leads, all four door speakers leads and sub leads (coming OUT of the factory amp) and ran them into the PCH8.

High level (speaker wires) input of the PCH8:
channel 1 was the rear door speakers (which were the closest to full range frequencies that I could tell)
channel 2 was the front door speakers (low to mid frequencies only)
channel 3 was the dash LH and RH (high frequencies)
channel 4 was the subs LH and RH (low frequencies)

Low level (RCA's) output of the PCH8:
channel 1 went to the PDX5 front high pass
channel 2 went to the bazooka low level inputs.
channel 3 went to the PDX5 rear high pass
channel 4 went to the PDX5 sub channel (I used this channel for the factory sub because the PCH8 has a remote level control on it which is nice for controlling the bass, and the Bazooka already had its own remote level control)

Just for now I left the summing levels at 50% gain until I can get someone to help me professionally tune it in.

Let me just tell you, it sounds incredible! Even better than I had hoped for.  

I hope this helps anyone out there looking to do this. I will post the wiring colors/polarities and photos if anyone is interested. 

There are 2 plugs that come out of the "alpine" amp (even though it says Chrysler right on it) One is a 22 pin white plug and the other is a 16 pin black plug.

On the 22 pin connector 










left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)
pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)
pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 4 not used
pin 5 not used
pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 10 not used
pin 11 not used
pin 12 not used
pin 13 not used
pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)
pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)
pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)
pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)
pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)
pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)
pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)
pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)
pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed power for the amp)


On the 16 pin connector










left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)
pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)
pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)
pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)
pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)
pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)
pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)
pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)
pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)
pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)
pin 15 not used
pin 16 not used

pic of the PCH8 installed behind the dash.










pic of the alpine PDX-5 amp installed under drivers seat.










pic of the factory amp (to the left of the steering column)










pic of the new wire harness.










pic of the focal 6x9 in the rear door.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Wow this is great information right here. I've been tackling the Chrysler factory amp problem myself with no success.


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## Chadzilla500 (Jun 30, 2008)

chithead said:


> Wow this is great information right here. I've been tackling the Chrysler factory amp problem myself with no success.


haha.. actually reading your posts inspired me.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Man I don't know if I should feel honored or disappointed that I couldn't sort things out!

I'm glad you took the time to do this. I had not idea that Peripheral unit existed, that definitely helps things!


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## newtitan (Mar 7, 2005)

wow nice right up!!


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## Ultimateherts (Nov 13, 2006)

I ran the PCH8 for about 1.5 years and had been recommending it as much as I could. Simple summing no added eq boast on it and it works great! Now I am going to upgrade my factory deck to a Denon and can't wait.


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

Chad, I replied earlier but it didnt show.. I have a few questions for you, since I am doing a little work on my 2010 crew cab with the same deck. 
First, where did you find your 12volt remote source for your amp?
Second, I see on the 22 & 16 pin connectors that you have sub lines in each. Is this because its a dual voice coil sub? Which are you using for your hi/low line conversion for your amp?
I plan to run two JL 10" W3's with a kicker amp I have and stay stock for now with the rest. So all I need is the install my amp wires, remote bass knob adjuster, and subs in rear under seat box.
Third, did you see a gain adjustment on the factory amp for the mid's and high's? Thaught maybe I'd turn that up a touch if I could.
Thanks, and any help would be a huge help....
Oh, any tricks to getting in the dash? Always hate to break clips and stuff especially on my new truck. Thanks again.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Do you have a center console? I tapped into the dash cigarette lighter plug in mine since it did not have a dash cigarette lighter with the console. It is a keyed on source, and stays on when you turn the key off. Until you open the door of course


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

Yes, its the one with the center console that divides the front two seats with nothing but storage and holders. It doesnt have a cig. plug but does have two 12v plug sources. One continuous and one shuts down like you said, but yeah, I suppose I could tap into that. No problems with plugging your phone into that though? (cell noise) And of course your amp running of it?
Again, any ideas about what line level sub leads to tap into on the 16 & 22 pin stereo connector? Why are there two? I was also thinking I could just tap into it at the sub location itself for my amp install. Thanks again..


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## DynamicAudioLodi (Jul 13, 2009)

Dude, get rid of the pch8. not needed at all. Use this, works as advertised. We've done 3 of these and they will save you a headache. Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future


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## DynamicAudioLodi (Jul 13, 2009)

Also, sometimes some of these don't work properly out of the box. The last one we did the rear outputs didn't work. Fortunately for us we were using an external eq. So the moral of the story is make sure the shop you buy it stocks at least 2.


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## Chadzilla500 (Jun 30, 2008)

DynamicAudioLodi said:


> Dude, get rid of the pch8. not needed at all. Use this, works as advertised. We've done 3 of these and they will save you a headache. Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future


Dude, that C2A-CHY2 does not work with the RER radio. 


Clint ... 12v souce can be found in the console..however i ran mine to the fuse box under the hood. 

The sub DOES have a dual voice coil ...thus the 2 pairs of leads going to it. 

I have been playing with the factory sub and blew it up using my alpine. lol
I was actually surprised how that enclosure sounds  
PS i filled it with poly fill before i put it back together. 
Time for a new 8" sub.

as far as getting into the dash its only 3 torx screws and 2 philips screws... all the rest are unbreakable clips.  very cake.

There are no gain adjustments on the outside of that amp..but i have yet to open it up to see if there was something. 

I used both sets of sub leads goin into the pch8.


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## DynamicAudioLodi (Jul 13, 2009)

Yes brother, it does. Unless your factory Alpine system with nav has something that I don't know about; it works. It has for us. No foolin'


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

Thanks for the reply Chad... I just spent some time today running my main power through the fire wall and 12v source to my center console. I was really hoping Id be able to fit my Kicker 300.1 amp under that center console somewhere but looks like it would be a pretty tight fit no matter what. Want it all to look stock as possible of course. I did however tap into my 12v output socket in the center console also for my remote source. 
So, with it being a dual V/C sub, can I run both channels into my single line level converter or should I just pick a channel and stick with it? Funny, havent needed a line level since the 80's. I plan to just hook that up at the sub itself. 
So what do you think about me running the two 10" W3V3's with my Kicker 300.1? Not looking for insaine, but do you guys think it'll still bump a little better than it had?


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## Chadzilla500 (Jun 30, 2008)

Clint* said:


> Thanks for the reply Chad... I just spent some time today running my main power through the fire wall and 12v source to my center console. I was really hoping Id be able to fit my Kicker 300.1 amp under that center console somewhere but looks like it would be a pretty tight fit no matter what. Want it all to look stock as possible of course. I did however tap into my 12v output socket in the center console also for my remote source.
> So, with it being a dual V/C sub, can I run both channels into my single line level converter or should I just pick a channel and stick with it? Funny, havent needed a line level since the 80's. I plan to just hook that up at the sub itself.
> So what do you think about me running the two 10" W3V3's with my Kicker 300.1? Not looking for insaine, but do you guys think it'll still bump a little better than it had?



Im sure that setup will be more than enough bass. i would use both sub channels... it cant hurt. let us know how it turns out.


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

I will for sure, I did actually buy another hi/lo converter (PAC SNI-15) rated at 1/10 signal strength to be used with a factory wattage between 10-20 watts rms. This provides both right and left channels. One thing I dont know for sure is what the total wattage (rms) is that runs to the factory sub. I guessed it wasnt anymore than 20 rms. Any of you know for sure what it is?


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

So, I wired my truck up and installed my amp. I put my old Kicker Comp 10" in the back to check it out. Sounds pretty good, but wish I had a little more volume with the Mids and Hi's. I did'nt expect it to bang too hard with my old sub, and look forward to getting my enclosure Monday so I can get my subs in. 
I do know what you mean now by not having enough mid's. But I have a feeling that just new 6x9's in the doors with a seperate amp might just be the remedy. Sure wish that damn stock amp had a gain on it. Think I'll be stickin with the stock Mid's for some time... my wife would freak if she knew I bought more crap for the truck. In short though, Im suprised by how good it still sounds.


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

Well guys, I got my enclosure today and my JL 10W3V3's installed. Keep in mind I am only running my Kicker 300.1 amp into these puppies and WOW! I would have to say Im pretty happy with the bass results. I know I could be putting another good 600 watts to them but not sure why I'd do that. These subs freakin pound. The unforunate thing is that my mids and highs dont quite match up to the bass unless I find a song that is recorded well. (320kbps and some 128kbps) In all I am happy though. Its all very clean and you could never tell for the most part that I even touched a thing in my truck, unless you really knew what to look for.
Also want to thank you guys for your help and Chadzilla for posting the factory stereo wire color codes. BIG help!! For now Im going to enjoy what I've got until I get a bug to replace most of my speakers with Focal's and another amp. Getting to darn cold to do anything outside anymore here in Tri-Cities, WA. So perhaps next spring I'll look into doing a little sumpin sumpin to the rest.


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## Chadzilla500 (Jun 30, 2008)

Clint* said:


> Well guys, I got my enclosure today and my JL 10W3V3's installed. Keep in mind I am only running my Kicker 300.1 amp into these puppies and WOW! I would have to say Im pretty happy with the bass results. I know I could be putting another good 600 watts to them but not sure why I'd do that. These subs freakin pound. The unforunate thing is that my mids and highs dont quite match up to the bass unless I find a song that is recorded well. (320kbps and some 128kbps) In all I am happy though. Its all very clean and you could never tell for the most part that I even touched a thing in my truck, unless you really knew what to look for.
> Also want to thank you guys for your help and Chadzilla for posting the factory stereo wire color codes. BIG help!! For now Im going to enjoy what I've got until I get a bug to replace most of my speakers with Focal's and another amp. Getting to darn cold to do anything outside anymore here in Tri-Cities, WA. So perhaps next spring I'll look into doing a little sumpin sumpin to the rest.


Glad i could help man! Im getting bored with my 8" bazooka and factory sub box with kicker 8" in it.. may put in those 2 12s in a custom box after your comments. lol


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## Clint* (Nov 5, 2010)

Got a really good chance to play with it today going to work (Hour each way on open highway) and got to rock out. Man, I tell ya! Those subs are rediculous...much more bass than I even thought possible with the amp Im running. Ive owned ALOT of subs, but these take the cake...I wouldnt even want to know what two W7's would sound like.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

They make some stout subwoofers, that's for sure!


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## Blancolex300 (Dec 9, 2009)

Good luck with the build! Some good info here regarding the factory amp wiring.


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## epskiman (Jan 23, 2011)

Speaking of the RER radio W/Nav... does anyone know how to disable the "speed sensitive volume control" on the RER model?? Its not in any of the features of the radio so can it be disable by disconnecting a wire from the radio?


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