# How to replace Toyota Camry speakers



## c627627

When I started replacing my Toyota Camry 2002 car audio system, I had no clue about anything. If I could give my clueless self advice, the most important thing would be to read about and prepare for the entire process first, don't just read the first step thinking you'll wing it from there. Winging this tends to end up scratching or breaking parts of your car. Luckily I didn't do too much damage.


• A head unit (CD Radio) with a USB connector is nice, but many of today's models
work with 4GB or 8GB USB sticks max. 16GB sticks (or more) may not be fully compatible.

• 3-way, 4-way speakers are a marketing gimmick. Either get a quality 2 way coaxial speaker or
preferably component speakers. Components will be much harder to install but they sound
better because they come with separate woofers, tweeters, external crossovers, all three of
which will have to be mounted separately. 

• Toyota Camry uses 6"x9" speakers in front and back. 6"x9" component sets are generally not
made since round component woofer cones offer superior sound quality. An adapter plate
(baffle) will therefore have to be made.


• A separate amplifier drives quality speakers, increasing their volume without distortion. In my
case, an amp was a must because I wanted to also install quality rear speakers for kids in the
back, so I ended up having the head unit powering the rear speakers and an amp powering the
front components.

I was told it was not a good idea to install components in both front & back. It's better to install
components in front and 2-way coaxials in the rear. Try to fade the rear speakers whenever
there are no passengers in the rear to get the optimal sound out of the front component
speakers. 


When looking at speaker sensitivity, high sensitivity is better for a low-powered factory radio.
Lower sensitivity may be a better for a higher powered replacement you buy.


To summarize: The quickest and easiest thing to do is to just replace the front speakers with
2-way coaxial speakers. (Coaxial means tweeter and woofer come in one unified enclosure.) 


Doing more means entering a world of pain (j/k for some, true for me ).












To get to Front Speakers, there are 6 screws to remove. 

1. Remove screw #1 and #2 located on the bottom of the door.

2. Use a small screwdriver covered with tape (so as to not scratch anything) or use a plastic
knife to pop out this round hole plug to reveal screw #3:










3. Carefully pop out this little plate inside the door handle to reveal screw #4:










4. Remove this black rubber bottom to reveal screw #5:










5. Removing screw #5 will allow you to pop out the entire Power Window Master Switch
Assembly to reveal screw #6.

6. Disconnect the power window and door lock harnesses.

7. Remove this black sail panel triangle, it pops right off:










8. Pry the bottom of the door Panel away and pop out these 7 clips one by one:










Done.



To get to Rear Speakers: 

1. You're supposed to "hold up the seat and disengage the clips to pull out the cushion
assembly forward to remove it, being careful to hold the clips around the roots."

There are two of these, on on the left side, one on the right, I put my two hands to feel these,
then pulled up with some force:










2. Lift this on both corners to reveal a 12mm metric bolt. 
[I also used this bolt to also ground my amplifier.]










3. Once you remove the screw, lift this up to remove it:










4. Lift this up to be able to pull the back rest toward you. 
[When you put it back, push it in so it clicks.]










5. Use a screwdriver covered with tape (so as to not scratch anything) or use a plastic knife to
pop out this roof side garnish on both left and right sides:










4. Pop out these 9 clips to remove this Room partition Board Assembly:










5. Before removing this Package Tray Trim Panel assembly:










6. Stick your hand under it to disconnect this Brake Light assembly connector:










Done.


[I don't have the XLE version with Rear Window Shade but they say there are 2 extra clips that
are bolted down from the top, under the rear window shade. Apparently, you're supposed to
pull hard up and out on the Package Tray (Rear Deck) until it pops out.]



Pop the dashboard cover to disconnect the small 2 1/2" speakers (they only have 2 5/8"
clearance in the mounting bracket). They may ruin the sound of your new side speakers.


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## c627627

To get the factory radio out:

Use a screwdriver covered with tape (so as to not scratch anything) or use a plastic knife to
pop out the Air Conditioner Control Assembly. (Apply some downward force):










Disconnect the connections then remove the assembly above it:










There are four metric bolts inside. 11mm.


These are the three connectors. The blue connector on the right is for the antenna.











Get a radio harness like this:










Then avoid soldering by using something like this to connect the wires:










Also get a speaker harness to connect to your car's existing wiring by simply connecting to this:











*Disconnect the Negative (-) battery cable to be safe. Remember to ground the amp first if you install one.*

This is the wiring diagram for Toyota Camry 2002: 




























• Yellow: Left Rear -
• Black: Left Rear +

• White: Right Rear -
• Red: Right Rear +


These are the actual colors on the other one:



















• Purple: Left Front -
• Orange (next to green): Left Front +

• Blue: Right Front -
• Green: Right Front +

• Gray: Radio Ignition

• Yellow/blue stripes: Radio 12V

• Brown: Radio Ground

• Small green wire: Radio Illumination


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## c627627

Notes specific to my installation:

1. Rear speakers did not fit in the factory holes. I drilled the screws right into the thin metal.
Some people use adaptors, look at clearance between the cover and the speakers if you use an
adaptor plate.

2. Thick baffle is an excellent idea. But mine was too thick so I had to chop off the right corner
on the passengers side and the left corner on the driver's side.










3. I would have liked to have had a baffle that would have fit both the woofer and the tweeter
nicely close to each other like this:










But I didn't have a baffle that would fit both the woofer and the tweeter so I had to resort to a
third-rate solution like this:











*People say that it may be better to have the tweeter higher up on the door, but I would be
concerned about too much sound separation if the tweeter was too far away from the woofer...
So I would go for an adaptor plate that houses both woofer and tweeter.*


3. I installed the speaker component crossovers inside the doors. This is not a good idea as the weather will almost certainly ruin them one day.



















4. Sub enclosures take a lot of trunk space plus I listen to classic rock so I decided not to install a sub. 

This is where I mounted the amp since I decided to use the corner seat bolt to ground it:










5. I connected the Amplifier to component speaker crossovers by 

a. connecting the amp speaker out to factory radio harness 
b. connecting the crossover to the existing front speaker wiring using a speaker harness.

By doing this I avoided having to fish the wire through...

And since I did it that way, I cut the front speaker harness to be able to use these red
connectors on the component speakers:











6. Regarding Amp battery connector cable, a hole can be punched through rubber behind the
break pedal to pass it through to the battery. Scuff plates on the side of the door under which
cables run pop right off.

7. People use deadening to isolate their doors so they don't rattle. Dynamat is one of the most prevalent brands but it's not the best. I bought a small piece of deadening material just to cover the area around the speakers but I was told that the real difference would be noticeable if I do the entire door. So that's what I would do, if I decide to do deadening.


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## fritoxtreme

nice photos. however I dont like those twist locks and should no be used in cars. either solder or use some good crimp caps with klien crimper


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## captainobvious

I agree with the crimp connectors. Much more secure and safe connection in my opinion.
Also, you'll want to be sure that your grounding location is connected to a piece that actually is on contact with the frame. That and also make sure to sand the paint off at that location to provide a clean connection.

With your tweeter mounting- You could also use a hole saw or circle cutter/jigsaw to cut out the proper tweeter mounting hole and flush it into the panel.

Good job with getting pictures and details for Camry owners. We need more like this one on the site.
I'll be doing a full install log on my upcoming Lancer install.


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## johnbooth3

Nice photos. Very good instructions on the install. I also agree with the others, it would be best to use a crimp connector or solder. I would solder w/ heat shrink, but either is better than the twist on connectors.

Good Work.


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## GlasSman

Very nice writeup c627627 .....but you HACKED my baffles.


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## vidizzle

good work


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## Blazemore

Holy cow, thanks for the write-up been looking for this exact same thing.


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## johnya84

if your baffles break and you want to upgrade you dashboard speakers, here is a good deal....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=360058334932&rd=1


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## c627627

Yeah but where do you mount the tweeters, that deal offers separate adapters for the tweeter...

There should be enough room to squeeze in the woofer as well as the tweeter in *one single adapter*. That's what I would be looking for.


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## strong*I*bumpin

I got these from Crutchfield for 5.25-6.5'' drivers,made from ABS...


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## c627627

How thick are those, notice how thick the ones GlasSman made for me were. I understand thickness is a significant factor that helps decrease the door rattle.


Again, it would really help people if you guys posted where and how tweeters were mounted when suggesting woofer adapters.


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## kpozr2

good tutorial!


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## strong*I*bumpin

c627627 said:


> How thick are those, notice how thick the ones GlasSman made for me were. I understand thickness is a significant factor that helps decrease the door rattle.
> 
> 
> Again, it would really help people if you guys posted where and how tweeters were mounted when suggesting woofer adapters.


I believe 1/8" thick,like a sheet of ABS.I used a sheet of ABS to make a tweeter mounts as well.The baffles were used with some Polk Momo coaxials getting around 80w and had no problems with vibrations.Vibrations could occur with more hi power applications.I actually used the baffles as templates as well made some out of 1/2'' MDF and with a Dremel I trimmed down the tabs so the door panel can be replaced without obstruction.


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## shanek

Hey guys,

First of all, let me start by saying that this is a first time experience for me as well. Earlier today, I installed an Alpine CDA-9886 (whatcha think?) HU in place of my factory stereo. Tomorrow, I plan on tackling the challenge of replacing the speakers. 

Here's what I bought:

Front Doors -- 
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZCR4P4sPh5D/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=500sps17c2

Rear --
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZCR4P4sPh5D/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=500sps69c2

Now, I suppose that I was wondering if I should also buy an amp? In Strong's above post, he mentioned that he had to get one because he bought quality rear speakers as well. To be honest, I couldn't tell a good speaker from my own mother. I think what I bought is ok, but should I get an amp for them? 

Secondly, I listen to a lot of hip-hop. Should I buy a sub while I am at it? The Alpine HU has low-pass/high-pass filters... so what I believe that means is, that I could essentially take all of the bass out of the 2-ways and direct it all to the sub. The should sound better/speakers will last longer, no? And if you suggest that I should get a sub, which? How big? And then it definitely means that I'll need an amp.. so what amp would be good to power the sub/rear's?

I'm sure I sound like a fool. But I suppose that technically I am. I am just very worried that I am not getting the bang I thought that I would for my buck. The HU is awesome so far, but it's driving factory speakers.. the real test will be tomorrow.

Anyway, in summary..

1. Should I get an amp? And what kind?
2. Should I get a sub as well, and if so, what kind of sub/amp combination would you recommend?

My friend is offering me a 1000-watt 12" XPLOD, in a box, with a 440-watt amp for $100. Most of my other friends tell me that XPLOD's are horrible, and will do nothing but distort the sound quality of my Alpines. What do you guys/girls think?

Humbly Grateful,
Shane

P.S. This is an awesome forum.


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## c627627

Hi, which adapters are you using on the front to fit the 6 1/2 inchers?

You don't need the adapters for the rear but you'll need to drill through sheet metal to replace the rears because they won't just fit even though they're the same size as factory rears. Rears are _really _hard to get to. Take care and walk through the entire procedure before you even get to the car. You don't want to do a trial & error approach on this. Lots to do, easy to get frustrated, easy to scratch parts.


I've had a really hard time getting a suggestion from people for the amp. I did not get good feedback from members on the Panasonic CY-PA2003U I chose but it is CEA-2006 certified which means that it complies with a standard guaranteeing you are getting *true power ratings* not bs numbers. It is *extremely* powerful for the two fronts I only needed it for and at a lower price than other _new_ amps. They kept telling me that a really good one can be had used, so it's just what you come across.

Do a search and post a thread about your specific amp, maybe someone posts an opinion...

On to your questions:
1. Should I get an amp? And what kind?
2. Should I get a sub as well, and if so, what kind of sub/amp combination would you recommend?


1. *Everyone*  here would tell you heck yea. 
I weighed this question and justified it with the fact that I really need four speakers instead of the usual fronts only, so I didn't think the car stereo could drive all four. 

2. Most people here would say yes, but my conclusion with which many would disagree would be that it depends on what kind of music you listen to. *Real* sub takes a lot of trunk space, and I listen to classic rock so I decided against it for those two reasons, and have been so far happy with that decision.


I also came to the conclusion how much more important deadening is for other types of music than it is for classic rock. I am not doing deadening for that one reason. I noticed the big difference when modern "beat" is played through my speakers, the entire car shakes crying out for deadening...


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## shanek

Hey man, thanks for responding! 

I bought everything through crutchfield, and, therefore, have their wiring stuff. In fact, this is why I bought from them even though it was more pricey (so much for "free installation equipment" hehe). But, I didn't know anything, and they provided everything. It was a win-win.

Installing the 6x9's no longer sounds appetizing. In fact, I don't even own a drill. I suppose I will borrow one and destroy their drill bit on the sheet metal. Sounds awesome. I suppose that's half the fun though, eh?

And, sadly enough, I generally (ok I played it down.. "always") listen to hip-hop. So, subs seemed like a necessity.. as well as an additional expense. 

Ok, so spring for an amp. Should I get a 4-way to power all 4 speakers? And I may need a little guidance in installing it. All I know is you need something to connect to the battery, and then run it through your chassis down the panneling and into your trunk. More fun! I'm a little leaguer trying to play with the big boys.


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## c627627

Sheet metal is really thin, even manual drill would do. I had remote start installed and those guys attached my rear speakers in mere seconds through that sheet metal.

You will need an amp kit, I bought this one:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-K4

See the start of the thread where it says
6. Regarding Amp battery connector cable, a hole can be punched through rubber behind the break pedal to pass it through to the battery. 

Scuff plates on the side of the door under which cables run pop right off. [to connect the head unit/speakers to the amp].


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## 93mazdawg

also you might think about using a different ground for your amps. get some self tapping screws, find an open area of sheetmetal, check for clearance (gas tank etc.) and screw your ground into the sheetmetal. and don't forget to grind the paint off the area so it is metal to metal contact


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## lyttleviet

wish I woulda saw this before I did my old camry install. It woulda made it that much easier.


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## jk281

nicely done, any chance of anybody doing the current generation camry like this?


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## Hispls

Amidoinitrite? 

Nice primer!


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## sidfarley

Obviously this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you for posting it. it really helped me replace the speakers on my 05 camry this past summer.

Now I'm working on installing an amp, and have a question:


I'm having a hard time figuring out a good place to mount the amp. I was going to mount on the seat back, like you, but the back of my seat is cloth over a framework. I'm wondering if you just got lucky that the mounting holes on your amp landed on the frame, or are your seatbacks more "solid", or did you do something else? Plus the seatback framework isn't exactly level, so I think I'd have to shim something

I could make an adapter plate, but I'm not looking forward to that. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## c627627

I looked at it again - I don't know, it just got mounted there, you should be able to do the same thing on your 2005 Camry and it would hold just like it did on my 2002 Camry.


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## pdxlawyer

Quite helpful. I'm getting ready to replace the entire system in my 1999 Camry. Any thoughts on how the tweeters are placed on the window frame next to the a-pillar? I haven't popped off the caps to look underneath, but how is the angling? I'm trying to keep my car looking as stock as possible, even if I'm switching out the head unit.


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## sidfarley

Thanks for the reply. Maybe there was a minor change between your year's and my '05. I had to move the amp around until the tabs all lines up with the framework under the thin cloth back. So, the side of the amp is right up against the where the 60/40 split is. All worked out and installed.

My first car amp - I set the gains today and won't get to mess with it too much until I drive to work in the morning.

Oh, and for my 2cents on the front door speaker baffles - I bought a 24" by 24" piece of 1" MDF from a local "plywood specialty store" for 5 or 10 bucks and used the factory speaker and a sharpie to trace the outline and screw holes. I cut everything with a jig saw (which does NOT cut at a right angle) and drilled everything and put a couple of coats of exterior primer/sealer on it. It required a bunch of extra trimming to get the door panel to fit back on, and looks horrifying, but I guess it was worth the $$ saved. Then I caulked all around my baffle to try to make it as weather tight as possible. tacotunes.com has an MDF baffle and a nice but expensive plastic one.

I cut holes in the speaker grills on top of the dash and mounted the tweeters in them and put the midrange in the door. Looks good - sounds good.


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## gnesterenko

Ahoy! First off, despite the age of the post, thanks. Inherited a 02 Camry recently and am looking to drop way beyond a reasonable amount of money into the audio system (considering the age/milage of the vehicle). Whatever though, most of the money will be the subwoofer and the amp, which will be transferable, and with any luck speakers will be as well.

But me justifying to myself spending half the cars net worth on the audio aside, I had a real question for other 5th gen Camry owners on here that have installed aftermarket fronts/rears at the factory locations.

I've been looking high and wide for the *DEPTH* and *EXTRUSION* measurements of the front door speaker locations. I'm looking at the Boston SPZs or Pros 60s for the fronts, and while I know I can buy/make adaptor plate to mount them, I also know that the Camry is notorious for depth clearing issues, as the window when lowered comes down right behind the speaker, potentially impacting. Can't have that! SO, with that in mind, does anyone have an 'exact' measurement of how deep, from the base mounting location (no baffles) I can go before I start hitting/rattling against the window, and how far out from the mounting location can my speakers extrude before they start hitting/rattling against the door panel.

And if you have the time, the same exact question for the rear deck speakers. Here I am less worried about clearence more about extrusion, but in general, that doesn't seem to be a problem location. Never-the-less, if you have that info, please share.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


PS. this may sound wierd, but since I am at work, I have to post the below disclaimer, regardless of the topic of the forum:

"The views expressed here are mine and do not reflect the official opinion of my employer or the organization through which the Internet was accessed."


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