# Second Skin Sludge



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

I initially applied the Sludge about a year ago and wanted to review it's performance over time. 

Application
Sludge has the consistency of peanut butter. It's thick and somewhat heavy. And it's very uniform in consistency. 

It has a mild/neutral paint type odor to it. After it dries it doesn't really smell like anything. I was a little worried that my car would smell like the stuff, but it didn't.

I applied Sludge in multiple layers to my door and door panel. I found it best to use a latex glove and smear it on. I did use a plastic puddy knife in some spots to level it out. I found myself mostly using my fingers to smear it into cracks and in and around door parts, holes, etc.

I smeared the first layer on my door panel over and existing layer of mat. I used Second Skin's suggested thickness of about a credit card. It took a good hour for 90% of it to completely dry and at least a full day or two for the real thick spots to completely cure. You can tell when it's dry because it gets noticably darker. This is nice because you can easly tell where the wet spots are. I think I ended up doing 2 coats on the door.









While that first coat was drying, I put a coat on the door panel. IMO Sludge was made for door panels. It works great for adding weight and goes on WAY easier than mat. No bloody and raw fingers from rubbing the mat down! Just smear and be done!  I put at least two coats on over mat on the panels as well.









Results
Where I really noticed the results of the Sludge was on the door panel. Prior to adding it, my panels would get moving pretty good. Aside for a few isolated rattles and buzzes, I could really tell that it did it's job. It was most noticable when I put my hand on the panel during loud and heavy bass songs. Before the vibration was pretty significant (even with a layer of eDead - which is complete crap!!) and after there was still vibration, but it was reduced by at least 50%. I did follow up with two layers of Dynamat Extreme and that helped add more weight and kill about 85% of the vibration. My panels still vibrate somewhat, but they do not buzz or rattle. 

Performance
After a year of daily pounding I'm happy to say the Sludge is still going strong. I was just in my doors the other day and I didn't notice any of it flaking off or falling apart. If you rub the dried Sludge you will get some of it on your hand. It looks like dust kind of. It will chip off cleanly if you take a flat head screwdriver after it. But if you never touch it, I don't think it will ever fall off. I dries hard like plaster, but it's not brittle. It's almost more of a plastic. 

Summary
Second Skin did a great job with this product. I've never used another liquid deadener so I can't compare. But I have to say that this stuff rocks for getting into cracks and gaps where mat can't go. In my experience, however, the viscoelastic properties of butyl based mat deadeners are superior to killing resonance. If it came down to Sludge or a good quality butyl mat for metal doors, I'd take the mat.

Pros:
Easy and fast to apply
Adds nice weight 
Kills resonance
No bloody and raw fingers  
Covers evenly

Cons:
Dry time.
Can get messy if you aren't carefull. But once it drys it peels right off.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Good review. I am thinking about buying some for my car. I want to use both, mat and liquid...The mat would go around the speakers and the sludge would go on the panels...

How much have you applied? And was it only to the doors?


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

SQ_Baru said:


> Good review. I am thinking about buying some for my car. I want to use both, mat and liquid...The mat would go around the speakers and the sludge would go on the panels...
> 
> How much have you applied? And was it only to the doors?


About a half gallon to just the doors, yes.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

SQ_Baru said:


> Good review. I am thinking about buying some for my car.


+2. Thanks for the review. I need to level my door (metal curves) and was thinking of either using the sludge, dynaglass (short chopped fiberglass filler), or massive amounts of raammat & butyl tape. Any suggestions?


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

omarmipi said:


> +2. Thanks for the review. I need to level my door (metal curves) and was thinking of either using the sludge, dynaglass (short chopped fiberglass filler), or massive amounts of raammat & butyl tape. Any suggestions?


Seems sludge would work. THe benefit of it over fiberglass would be resonance. Wouldn't the dynaglass resonate? Depending on how think you put it on, it could take a while for the Sludge to cure. But the nice thing about working with door panels is that you can leave them off and still drive your car around.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

B-Squad said:


> But the nice thing about working with door panels is that you can leave them off and still drive your car around.


  I bought my car in November 2005. I took the door panels off a couple of months after and they haven't been back on since. I did put the passenger side back on a couple of months ago because my finace was bitching.


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## nit_suj (Sep 29, 2006)

i read on the second skin website noting tha it doesn't adhere to plastic. 
are door panels considered plastic?
would it be possible to apply them directly on the door panels?


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

nit_suj said:


> i read on the second skin website noting tha it doesn't adhere to plastic.
> are door panels considered plastic?
> would it be possible to apply them directly on the door panels?


That's correct on both counts (assuming the door cards are actually plastic). This is true of any latex based liquids - not for direct application to plastic. B-Squad applied the sludge over a layer of mat, aluminum foil face = metal = should not be a problem.

SQ_Baru's idea of using both mat and liquid seems to be the optimum approach. No hard data to support it, but in my experience this composite approach seems to work better than an equal thickness of either alone. High quality liquids like those made by Second Skin and Cascade do have viscoelastic properties, but a different consistency and therefore peak performance at different frequencies.

While this approach may be optimal, it definitely isn't for everybody or even most people. I'd put it in the over-the-top category, but isn't that where many of us spend most of our time anyway? The combination approach will take more than twice the effort.

A few general notes on curing polymer liquids. Despite some marketing hype that says that liquids are Lighter/Better/Cheaper than mats, it just isn't true. To be as effective as mats, liquids need to be applied at the same thickness as the mat, 1 - 2 mm. When applied at the same thickness, the cured liquid will weigh as much as a mat. While pastes can be applied in one coat, liquids will require several coats to get there. The trade off is that the single layer of paste will take about as long to dry as the combined drying imes of multiple coats. The thickeners used in pastes don't enhance their sound deadening capabilities so liquids are going to be somewhat more effective. 

All curing polymers take much longer to fully cure than they do to dry. Full curing can take from a week to a month at which point they reach maximum effectiveness. You can reassemble the car as soon as the liquid is dry.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Hmm, I may have to get some of that stuff for my panels...

I assume it comes in a can of some size, half gallon or whatever. How much can one container cover? # of doors, # of layers, etc.


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## solacedagony (May 18, 2006)

www.secondskinaudio.com They have the pricing, sizes, coverage, etc. on there.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Well the Sludge I used was on sale at the time...it was b-stock. Bought a gallon and used about half.

Thanks for the info Don. I wasn't sure how much mass loading took place with the pastes when compared to mat...so you cleared that up. I will say that with one layer of el cheapo mat (eDead which sucks!) plus the amount of Sludge you see in the pics, my door panels about doubled in weight. And to me, it's more about weight when it comes to the panels themselves. I still might try to sneak a layer of OverKill on the panels to top the over the top!  Deadening is your friend.


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## illnastyimpreza (Oct 25, 2006)

ok where do I get some???


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

illnastyimpreza said:


> ok where do I get some???


www.secondskinaudio.com

Anthony is a great person to deal with.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

***Update***

Second Skin recently released Spectrum, a water-based viscoelastic vibration deadening compound based on Sludge. After the great results I got from the Sludge, I had to give it a try.

I took advantage of the free quart give away that was posted in the Good Deals section a few months ago. I waited and waited and the Spectrum never showed up. So I contacted Ant to see if he knew where it went and he got back to me right away. Turns out it went to my old address by accident. So Ant's solution was to send me another quart for free the same day, no additional shipping charge, and no questions asked. And I thought his customer service was good before! 

Why use Spectrum?
- Extremely easy/fool proof application
- Consistancy of thick paint that goes on super easy
- Dry time is perfect: not too fast, not too slow
- Very consistant product both wet and dry.
- No VOC's or harsh smell
- Dries hard so that deadening mat has something to stick to

Why not to use Spectrum?
- Poor adhesion to plastic

Consumer satisfaction rating: 10/10  

Other liquid deadening products used: None, except Sludge. Don't trust anything else. 

I love this stuff and highly recommend it to anyone. My own personal opinion is still that a high quality butylene-based vibration dampening mat is superior for the first line of attack for the resonant surface. I believe that the foil constraining layer has a lot to do with this. However, if the resonance problem is not cured with mat, I really think a liquid like Spectrum is the next thing to use. 

Pictured are my front doors with 3 liberal coats of Spectrum on top of a whole bunch of other stuff including Sludge and Damplifier Pro. 

















I also used 2 coats on my door mounting baffles. The Spectrum stuck like glue to the resin-soaked MDF, but eventually peeled off the PVC plastic mounting pieces.


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## Lightninghoof (Aug 6, 2006)

On bare metal, let's say the floorboard or trunk lid, would it not be easier to do the liquid on the bare metal, allow it to cure, and then apply the mat over the liquid? (This is how ED recommends it)

Or is it better to apply the mat to the bare metal, and then apply to liquid to the aluminum layer of the mat?


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

I think it's more important for the mat to have a strong bond directly to the sheet metal. Then apply the liquid on top.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Lightninghoof said:


> On bare metal, let's say the floorboard or trunk lid, would it not be easier to do the liquid on the bare metal, allow it to cure, and then apply the mat over the liquid? (This is how ED recommends it)
> 
> Or is it better to apply the mat to the bare metal, and then apply to liquid to the aluminum layer of the mat?


I suspect that is because eDead is clad with plastic instead of aluminum foil. Water based liquid sound deadeners don't stick to plastic, so the only way they can sell you both is to recommend an inferior configuration.

I can't think of any way that liquid on top of a proper aluminum foil constrained layer mat wouldn't be superior to the inverse. One of the primary functions of the constraining layer is to create a second interface with the adhesive to increase viscoelastic damping. The higher the ratio of adhesive to aluminum, the less effective the result. Putting liquid between the mat's adhesive and the substrate effectively increases this ratio.

Cured liquid deadener is porous. Butyl adhesive will stick better to non-porous surfaces. Applying liquid on top of the mat will seal away any exposed adhesive at the seams.

Everything points to mat then liquid as the best way to go EXCEPT when the mat is eDead. You've already sacrificed the constraining layer for Mylar so I guess giving up the other advantages I just listed isn't that big of a deal. I have an entire bookmark folder dedicated to misstatements about sound deadening made by ED. I would take their advice with a huge grain of salt.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Lightninghoof said:


> On bare metal, let's say the floorboard or trunk lid, would it not be easier to do the liquid on the bare metal, allow it to cure, and then apply the mat over the liquid? (This is how ED recommends it)
> 
> Or is it better to apply the mat to the bare metal, and then apply to liquid to the aluminum layer of the mat?


I'll spare the ED bashing and cut to the chase the best way I understand it.

To directly answer your question, yes Spectrum would be _easier_ to apply IME. Just slap it on, let it dry, repeat. 

But, it's _better_ to apply a high quality butylene-based viscoelastic damping mat first. If you want the best, use Cascade VMax. I may be biased but keep in mind that VMax is used in the commercial industry as well as in cars. They use it in HVAC, appliances, new home constuction, etc. Ever wonder why when you drop a fork in the sink it doesn't make a huge clank? 

Cascade also uses a special 3M coating on the surface of the butyl to help it form a permenant bond over a period of time. Reason why I bring this up is because I don't think liquids use this, but I could be wrong. I have no reason to believe that something like Spectrum will fall off, but steel does flex and move when you driver is shaking the hell out of the door panel. I have a feeling butyl rubber will hang better over a period of time than the plastic-like material a liquid deadener cures to. 

Technically, you'd have to look at the Acoustic Loss Factor or Damping Loss Factor of Spectrum vs the mat you're going to use do really answer which material would be most effective for the job. I've never seen the numbers on Spectrum, but as Don mentioned it's porous, so I'd expect the DLF to be less.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Just so I got this straight....

put a substance like rammamt down, then go over it with sludge.

This procedure works with door panels, floors, etc.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> Just so I got this straight....
> 
> put a substance like rammamt down, then go over it with sludge.
> 
> This procedure works with door panels, floors, etc.


Seems to be a better order than vice versa. I've never seen a scientific test on the two, but it seems what Don and I have said will hold true.

Also, don't just slap liquid down for no reason. If you still have resonance, then you might need another layer of mat? I like the liquid over the mat because it helps seal the cracks and gaps. It also can get in to hard to reach spots that mat cannot flex and bend into.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Let's see here:

For the floors:

2 layers of rammat, 1 layer of sludge, 1 layer of that vertex pad.


After talking to Jason Syner (siner) this weekend. Deading is crucial in the install.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> Let's see here:
> 
> For the floors:
> 
> ...


Don't understand the need for two layers of mat on the floor, personally. But I guess if weight and thickness isn't a factor, you can't go wrong with more!

If you look at this review, it was one year after I first used Sludge. Therefore, to me, proper sound deadening takes some rational thought, planning and time. Don't rush it and spend your money wisely.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> After talking to Jason Syner (siner) this weekend. Deading is crucial in the install.


Not to nit pick and sound like a dick, but what you really want achieve is effective noise containment to your own level of satisfaction. You can deaden the hell out of everything if you want, but a point of no return does exist. Keeping noise out, it seems to me anyway, is ALWAYS a battle.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Flipx99 said:


> Just so I got this straight....
> 
> put a substance like rammamt down, then go over it with sludge.
> 
> This procedure works with door panels, floors, etc.


Yes, but for the compulsive, not standard practice for most.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Flipx99 said:


> Let's see here:
> 
> For the floors:
> 
> 2 layers of rammat, 1 layer of sludge, 1 layer of that vertex pad.


That seems like a reasonable supplies list, but don't think of vibration dampers like that. You do need complete coverage with barriers like vertex, at least between your ears and the noise source, but vibration dampers should be more targeted. Just laying down uniform layers isn't going to give you the best results. Study each panel by tapping on it and listening for resonance, then apply vibration damper where you need it most. The closer you get to a bend, weld or other strengthening element, the less benefit you will get from adding sound deadener. If you are in a hurry, doing one uniform layer can speed things up, but target additional layers to the areas that need it. Some will be fine after one layer, others will need two, three or even more.

You are moving into a nearly theoretical realm when you put liquid on top of mat. I've done it several times and believe it is useful. Is it better than just adding more mat or liquid to a single material project? I really can't say. The theory is that because the cured liquid vibration damper has a different consistency than the mat's adhesive, they are most effective over slightly different frequency ranges. Who knows? It is certain that constrained layer systems are more effective than homogeneous approaches like liquids, but after market sound deadening is half art anyway. It's nice not to have gooey edges exposed.

If you decide to use a putty type product like Sludge, you want to try and maintain an optimal thickness of a millimeter or two. Sprayed or brushed on products are easier in this regard. The best approach with Sludge is to use a notched trowel with notches as deep as you want to apply the product. Lay down the first coat - the ridges will be the correct thickness. Let it cure - the extra surface area should actually speed this up. Once the first coat is solid, go back over it with a flat trowel to fill in the gaps.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Rudeboy said:


> The best approach with Sludge is to use a notched trowel with notches as deep as you want to apply the product. Lay down the first coat - the ridges will be the correct thickness. Let it cure - the extra surface area should actually speed this up. Once the first coat is solid, go back over it with a flat trowel to fill in the gaps.


Genius! Never thought of that before. Keep it up bro and I swear I'm going to start the 'Official Ask Rudeboy Thread." And without your concent either. Then when you don't answer any of the questions I guess I'll have to sue you and then slander you on my forum.


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## MrH (May 27, 2006)

Do you get that satisfying luxury car door thud when you close it? If you had to venture a guess, how much weight do you think it added to the doors?


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

B-Squad said:


> Don't understand the need for two layers of mat on the floor, personally. But I guess if weight and thickness isn't a factor, you can't go wrong with more!
> 
> If you look at this review, it was one year after I first used Sludge. Therefore, to me, proper sound deadening takes some rational thought, planning and time. Don't rush it and spend your money wisely.





B-Squad said:


> Not to nit pick and sound like a dick, but what you really want achieve is effective noise containment to your own level of satisfaction. You can deaden the hell out of everything if you want, but a point of no return does exist. Keeping noise out, it seems to me anyway, is ALWAYS a battle.


I guess I can stick with one layer...reason I want to use both products is to take advantage of good properties of each. In larger flat areas, foil-backed deadener would work better... around curves, the liquid form. Use the vertex pad in replace of the OEM version.



Rudeboy said:


> Yes, but for the compulsive, not standard practice for most.


What is the standard practice. My friend deadend his floor with one flat layer and said the difference was pretty noticeable. I figure I go all out and do much better.


My though process about this is...I don't do SQ where you just sit there. I am driving down the road, so the advantage for me is to eliminate as many "things that attack good sound" vs. "things that enhance it". For instance, in finance...there is no difference between a project that saves $5,000 vs. a project that creates $5,000 in sales. (in an extremely limited perspective)


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## xencloud (Aug 26, 2005)

Not trying to buck the general trend, but I actually asked Ant himself about which is better to lay down first, mat or liquid? He told me that if I'm strained for time, do mat, then liquid, but for absolute best results put liquid down, let it cure for 2-3 weeks, then go back with the mat on top. I think it's really because liquid will conform to all the cracks and crevices better initially. 

I'm not sure if he has any proof to back up the statements, the logic presented in this thread seems good, but he seems like he would be a knowledgable guy on the subject. I'm sure the differences would be hardly noticeable, if not impossible to detect or tell apart really. I don't feel like waiting so I'm doing matt first personally, then going over it with liquid, then foams, then barriers on the floor and trunk  

I wanna be done in one BIG weekend.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Interesting....

I will just wait for someone's excess sludge to wind up in the classifieds.

Although it is a review on sludge, I dunno if Bsquad minds that we throughly disect the topic.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

MrH said:


> Do you get that satisfying luxury car door thud when you close it? If you had to venture a guess, how much weight do you think it added to the doors?


Yep, sounds like a casket closing. 

Total weight added per door, including all the deadening and the drivers, I'd guess 20 lbs maybe?? I easly doubled the weight of the door card alone. I can tell you that the doors won't shut themselves, you have to push them pretty hard to get them to close. 

With 8" mids cranked full blast, I might get a slight resonance from something in the lock assembly or clip buzzing against something. But they are pretty dead.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

xencloud said:


> Not trying to buck the general trend, but I actually asked Ant himself about which is better to lay down first, mat or liquid? He told me that if I'm strained for time, do mat, then liquid, but for absolute best results put liquid down, let it cure for 2-3 weeks, then go back with the mat on top. I think it's really because liquid will conform to all the cracks and crevices better initially.
> 
> I'm not sure if he has any proof to back up the statements, the logic presented in this thread seems good, but he seems like he would be a knowledgable guy on the subject. I'm sure the differences would be hardly noticeable, if not impossible to detect or tell apart really. I don't feel like waiting so I'm doing matt first personally, then going over it with liquid, then foams, then barriers on the floor and trunk
> 
> I wanna be done in one BIG weekend.


Great points there. I agree, there probably is not a huge difference. I just gave my own speculation as to the better order.

Ant's the one who should be answering these types of questions. I'm happy to give my feedback and tell you how I made mistakes and wasted my money, but only he can sell his products.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> Interesting....
> 
> I will just wait for someone's excess sludge to wind up in the classifieds.
> 
> Although it is a review on sludge, I dunno if Bsquad minds that we throughly disect the topic.


I sure hope you saw that Ant is giving away 10 quarts of Spectrum? http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showpost.php?p=215384&postcount=10

Nope, not at all. After all the stuff I've used, I'm all about doing it right the first time, understanding the individual elements in noise control and then finding the best materials at the best prices to get the job done.


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

how many quarts did it take to cover both of the front doors? since it doesn't adhere well to plastic- did you have a bunch of stuff laid down on the plastic skin before application?

edit: read closely - 1/2 gallon for doors - you had layers of mat down before. thanks!

did you completely cover the plastic skin with mat before application? would you not recommend using spectrum on the plastic parts at all without having something over it first?


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

xcoldricex said:


> did you completely cover the plastic skin with mat before application? would you not recommend using spectrum on the plastic parts at all without having something over it first?


On the cardboard parts, no. But yea, I covered it first in mat before I put Sludge on. Basically, I just kept going with anti resonance materials until I was satisfied with deadness (just made that word up). 

You have a Mazda, right? Well just as a test, I put a single coat of Spectrum on the backs of my A pillars. Initially I thought it stuck pretty well, but then when I was working with them a few weeks later I noticed it would come off just with my finger pressure. 

The only way I think either Sludge or Spectrum will work on plastic is if you roughed the surface up with sandpaper to get it to hold. Even then, like Don said also, it's probably not going to do an adequate job of dampening. So yes, must use mat before on plastic IME. To be sure, contact Ant and ask him what he thinks.


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

yeah i have a speed3 which is very similar to the protege so it's great to get your experiences. i have no cardboard in my plastic skin though.

i've just done the metal skin of the doors so far (1 layers raam (2-3 behind the speaker) + ensolite) - nothing has been put on the plastic yet - i get a lot of vibration on the arm rests when turning up the stereo and a tiny bit of resonance. 

i really have to do the hatch- tried laying down mat on the metal as best as i could - my arms got all cut up because there were so many holes and small areas that i couldn't get to maybe the sludge would be better for this. i'm amazed at the job you did on your hatch with the vmax- not sure how similar the designs are but i'm going to have to use a lot of perf. aluminum over the whole thing to get it covered like yours... and i'm a bit worried if i ever have to change out the lights in the hatch...


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

xencloud said:


> Not trying to buck the general trend, but I actually asked Ant himself about which is better to lay down first, mat or liquid? He told me that if I'm strained for time, do mat, then liquid, but for absolute best results put liquid down, let it cure for 2-3 weeks, then go back with the mat on top. I think it's really because liquid will conform to all the cracks and crevices better initially.
> 
> I'm not sure if he has any proof to back up the statements, the logic presented in this thread seems good, but he seems like he would be a knowledgable guy on the subject. I'm sure the differences would be hardly noticeable, if not impossible to detect or tell apart really. I don't feel like waiting so I'm doing matt first personally, then going over it with liquid, then foams, then barriers on the floor and trunk
> 
> I wanna be done in one BIG weekend.


just to add more confusion to this - the FAQ says:




> Q. What is better, Spectrum or Damplifier?
> 
> A. Both products are designed to do the same basic function. Reduce noise through the visceolastic conversion of resonance to heat. Both have their place, and both excel at specific frequency ranges. This is why we suggest using a combination of Damping mat and coating.
> *
> ...


doesn't seem like it would hold up well outside of the car though based on b-squad's review...


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## robbyho (Oct 21, 2005)

xcoldricex said:


> doesn't seem like it would hold up well outside of the car though based on b-squad's review...


It does hold up very well actually, so long as the metal is really cleaned beforehand. Spectrum dries almost black too, so it is perfect for an undercoating.

Rob


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

robbyho said:


> It does hold up very well actually, so long as the metal is really cleaned beforehand. Spectrum dries almost black too, so it is perfect for an undercoating.
> 
> Rob


I've had some under my car for a year with no sign of problems. The new stuff seems even more durable than what I used. This is on metal.

I imagine that liquid performance will be improved by putting a CLVED mat on top, since it will get some benefit from the constraining layer. I don't believe the entire package will be more effective than the inverse since every mat on the market already had more adhesive than is ideal for CLVED.

Butyl mats are impervious to moisture. Liquids contain moisture and can absorb moisture even when cured. I've been weighing cured samples for months to see how long it takes for them to fully cure and to see how much water each contains. They are heavier on humid days than dry days. There is no way I am going to risk sealing moisture between the sheet metal of my car and a butyl mat, even if there is a performance benefit that we are missing. Remember than Anthony lives in Phoenix.


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## DonovanM (Nov 1, 2006)

Threads like this are why I love DIYMA. B-Squad and Rudeboy, thanks for all the great info!


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## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

The new (and 3 month current) version of Spectrum is specifically designed to be used as an undercoating, which makes is amazing inside the car.

We recently sponsored a 1955 shorty school bus for a hot rod magazine called Cruisin' Style.
We sent them 2 shop Packs of Damplifier Pro and 15 gallons of Spectrum.
10 of the gallons oare going inside the bus, 5 gallons will be used on the underside.

Soon as we get some pics I'll have to post them up.
Going to be a mean project.

Anyway, the only thing Spectrum won't adhere to is plastic type surfaces. Smooth fiberglass and such.

ANT


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## the other hated guy (May 25, 2007)

care to send me some.....I'll test it at MECA finals


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Ant- Have you every tested Sludge or Spectrum by taking a pressure washer and blasting it? I'm wondering what the longevity is for the wheel arches since my car is lowered and the tires will be throwing **** on them constantly.


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## illnastyimpreza (Oct 25, 2006)

B-Squad said:


> Ant- Have you every tested Sludge or Spectrum by taking a pressure washer and blasting it? I'm wondering what the longevity is for the wheel arches since my car is lowered and the tires will be throwing **** on them constantly.


HAH preasure washer??? thats pushin it.... even for that stuff


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