# What subwoofer size do you have or prefer? Poll Question



## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Just name or list the subwoofer size you have, had, or prefer. My friend doesn't believe me that 10's are extremely common.

See he wants to do something "unique" like the loser he is. I told him 10s are extrememly popular. He wants to do 3 of them. I told him to do 8s maybe.


So just post what you got.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

10's and 12's are about even for me.... both of our cars have 10's in em.


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## onelivinlarge (Apr 10, 2011)

ive had both 10s and a 15. played with 12s but never owned one. i like the 15 because it was violent and moved alot of air however thats nice in a spl car but i moved away from that since im going to college and need my trunk back and now i like my single 10 on my zapco ref 500.1 so the 10 bumps nicely and can get down so i say ten is great for a small sq set up. but if i were to try and get loud again it would be 2 fi bl 10s or dc lv 4 10s not another 15


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

I'd vote 15 in the correct box.... But usually that's 3 plus cubes.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

well since ive only ever owned a 10".....10's get my vote.


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## DS-21 (Apr 16, 2005)

In one car, I use two 6.5" subs in the footwell. Why? Nothing else will fit without also taking up otherwise-valuable space. In the other, two 12's.

At home, right now a 12 and two 10's, though my reference home theater system uses a 15, two 12s, and a 10, and my reference nearfield system uses a single 18.


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## SpecV (Mar 26, 2009)

Currently have a 12 but have had all but JL 13.5 sizes. I love the low tones that 15's put out, but prefer the impact you get from a 8/10/12 and the smaller size requirements. Tell him that 10's are quite possibly the MOST common...


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

My Mazda b2300 has two 8" RF woofers and my current car will have a single 12 and two sa 8s when ever they get here. 

Previous car had two 12s

edit: have two shallow 10s for the Mazda waitin for me to build an enclosure for.


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## PottersField (Mar 18, 2011)

I don't have a preference to size per se but in my current vehicle I started with a single 10 and I currently run a single 12, and will be installing a second as soon as I get off my ass to build another enclosure.

I do find myself a bit more picky about the enclosure instead of the sub, though. I prefer vented just because I listen to a very wide range of music and the vented boxes I've built sound great whether I'm listening to Adele or Lil Wayne.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

SpecV said:


> Currently have a 12 but have had all but JL 13.5 sizes. I love the low tones that 15's put out, but prefer the impact you get from a 8/10/12 and the smaller size requirements. Tell him that 10's are quite possibly the MOST common...


I wish this myth would die. I gurantee my 15s produce a "tighter" sound with much more impact than 99% of the 10s out there.

I've run 10s, 12s, and 15s. If you count the factory sub, an 8" too lol.

By far I like the 2 15s best for both SQ and SPL. They run the full range from moving lots of air and getting low on rap and play up to 100hz with a very strong kick. Bass is effortless and precise on every type of music.


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## sonikaccord (Jun 15, 2008)

I like 18's or a couple of 8's.
I recently built a tc9 based 18 for a simple IB setup, that I have yet to install but I think I'll like it.
I also like lots of smaller drivers like 8's or 10's, but mainly to save space and have a simpler install. I'm shooting for lots of displacement with minimal woofer effort. That way I can have my "sq" and "spl" too...whatever those terms mean.


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## val69 (Apr 7, 2011)

I'm using one 12" JL W7. Powered by JL HD750. It's loud enough when I want it to be and great sounding at low level. I have the best of both SQ and SPL in one sub.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Thanks for all of your votes you guys.

I have had only 12s. But I am switching and going to 2 15 FI BL.
I like my buddys 2 10 inch Orion HCCA. They are from 1998 and wow. I could not believe they were 10s


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## stussycole (Apr 26, 2006)

I have never needed anything more than a pair of small subs or a single ten for daily listening. I have used everything from 6.5s to 18s. Currently I have a single 10 in one car and a pair of 6.5s in the other.


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## ou812 (Oct 25, 2008)

Single SSA Icon 10 and loving it!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

3 x IB12" gets plenty loud and sounds incredible


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## chijioke penny (Mar 22, 2007)

my next car will be using 3x10's (TC Sound 10 OEM's) i like the impact!!!!..... my tahoe is going from six idmax 12's to two TC sound LMS Ultra 5400 18's... never used 18's b4, so this will be an experience (about 4kw per sub off two Tru Techn. SledgeHammers!!!!)


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

Last sub was a 10, current sub is a 10, sub I am installing is a 10, but at some point I would like to try a 15 with some real power behind it.


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## tim (Jan 22, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> I gurantee my 15s produce a "tighter" sound with much more impact than 99% of the 10s out there.



Yeah, but you have some exception subs there.

Wish I could get a set of those AE IB15's, but as usual I missed the boat on those too.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

amitaF said:


> 3 x IB12" gets plenty loud and sounds incredible


I wish I could hear your system just to see how close the IB12s sound to the IB15s since we have about the same cone area. I bet they're very close. Do you know what the Qtc is on your setup?


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## Angrywhopper (Jan 20, 2010)

13.5"


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

Honestly, I'd have to say 12's. I know it depends on the quality of the sub regardless of size. When comparing brand A directly to brand A of a different size I'd go with the 12". I'm looking at it as output for area used. People say they're out there, but I've never heard a 10" that sounded as deep as a 12" given they're both in proper enclosures. I've owned 8's, 10's, 12's, and 18's. The 18's were great, but required 7ft3 each. I'm getting my first 15's next week. They require 4ft3 each. I'm sure the output will be great but that's a lot of space for 2 subs in an extended cab truck. The 15's are just temporary until I finally get the nerve to order my 4-12's. Most 12's can work in a 1ft3 to 2.5ft3 enclosure. Basically, I can fit 4 12's in the airspace required for 2-15's. That's a lot more cone area. Another thing to consider is the frequency responce of the subs. My pioneer subs drop down to 20Hz. I've never seen a 10" with that kind of range. I may be mistaken and they're out there. Ive just never seen it


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## funkalicious (Oct 8, 2007)

To me there is no replacement for displacement in a well designed enclosure. Have owned or extensively listened to four eights, four fifteens isobaric, four eights and two fifteens in same system, single twelve in dual bandpass, four eighteens, single and dual twelves, single and dual fifteens. Currently will be using a single fifteen with 600 watts in an AP but plan to have a GPA 3184 pro audio eighteen in AP by Christmas


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

funkalicious said:


> To me there is no replacement for displacement in a well designed enclosure. Have owned or extensively listened to four eights, four fifteens isobaric, four eights and two fifteens in same system, single twelve in dual bandpass, four eighteens, single and dual twelves, single and dual fifteens. Currently will be using a single fifteen with 600 watts in an AP but plan to have a GPA 3184 pro audio eighteen in AP by Christmas


Nice, looking forward to your review if you give one. I always wanted to try AP but that's well beyond my skill level.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

I personally. Am looking at getting 2 FI BL 15's. I don't want to run more than 2500 watts. And after looking around these more and more seem to be what I want. Unless someone knows of another 15 inch SPL sub that compares and in price. The total is $778 for 2.


What about DC audio? Maybe 2 DC level 4s or XLs?

I simply am looking for whatever is loudest without going over $900


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

jockhater2 said:


> I personally. Am looking at getting 2 FI BL 15's. I don't want to run more than 2500 watts. And after looking around these more and more seem to be what I want. Unless someone knows of another 15 inch SPL sub that compares and in price. The total is $778 for 2.
> 
> 
> What about DC audio? Maybe 2 DC level 4s or XLs?
> ...


With that much power as a restriction, I'd recommend the FI Q series. You'll need double that power to fully push the BTL's


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

I agree. But not the BTL model. The BL model. It is the SPL version of the Q series.


I have a XS power D3400 in the front, a yellowtop D31 in the back. and a 90 amp alternator (biggest my car can have without custom order) and 1/0 gauge.

I have a US amp AX3000DE 2000 watts @ 2 ohms and 3000 watts @ 1 ohm.

XS power said I am good for up to 4500 watts. But I figured I should give myself some safe room with my small alternator. So I figured 2000watts and no more for the amp.

Any advice?


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## sqcomp (Sep 21, 2009)

Hertz ML3800 15" in a 1.75ft^3 sealed enclosure

Works well for me


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## NucFusion (Nov 28, 2010)

I'm currently running SSA DCON 10. I typically prefer 12's but decided I didn't want to give up much trunk space in this car, so went with the 10 and so far I'm very impressed with the output in a ported box (maybe too much output). The best SQ set up I had was an original JL 12w6 in a small sealed box in a mustang hatchback. I really loved those drivers, didn't need a ton of watts to get loud and sounded great.


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## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

Mostly 10s here.... but its good to play with differnt sizes to see what fits your taste better...


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Well I am getting 15's. Either FI BL or maybe DC Audio XL 15. I dont know yet. My buddy is thinking either three 10's or four 8's.


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## ebrahim (Sep 21, 2009)

I am currently have a TREO TE 10 sealed and looking into either a Incriminator Audio 187 10 or SSA DCON 10 sealed. I do not like 15 because of the enclosure size plus it is not quick to pick up the bass notes. Also do not like 12s either and I would truly love to try a pair of 8s sealed but we shall see about that one.


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## ebrahim (Sep 21, 2009)

How do you like your SSA DCON 10? I am interested in getting one though.



NucFusion said:


> I'm currently running SSA DCON 10. I typically prefer 12's but decided I didn't want to give up much trunk space in this car, so went with the 10 and so far I'm very impressed with the output in a ported box (maybe too much output). The best SQ set up I had was an original JL 12w6 in a small sealed box in a mustang hatchback. I really loved those drivers, didn't need a ton of watts to get loud and sounded great.


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## Aaron Clinton (Oct 17, 2006)

ou812 said:


> Single SSA Icon 10 and loving it!


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

ebrahim said:


> I am currently have a TREO TE 10 sealed and looking into either a Incriminator Audio 187 10 or SSA DCON 10 sealed. I do not like 15 because of the enclosure size plus *it is not quick to pick up the bass notes. * Also do not like 12s either and I would truly love to try a pair of 8s sealed but we shall see about that one.


Really, you still believe that a 15 is slower than a 10?


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

Aaron Clinton said:


>


I sence some prejudice!!! Lol


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

turbo5upra said:


> I sence some prejudice!!! Lol


Just because the sub is black?


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## FG79 (Jun 30, 2008)

There will always be debate on woofer size....

But I think it's safe to say that multiple woofer setups in nice size enclosures provide a best of all worlds if you exclude trunk space and $$$ spent.

6 8" or 4 10"/12" subs, sealed....low QTC enclosures will provide plenty of SPL, be able to go low and still provide good upper bass punch, and will be very tight sounding. At the very minimum you'll have about 3 cubic feet of airspace, and realistically could go up to 6-8 cubic feet. 

Effortless design, it would be hard to screw this up.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

I'm running 4 ID8's and am quite pleased with the output. 
I would prefer larger subs, but with install limitations I went with 8's.
Nice impact, and can dig down fairly well.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> Really, you still believe that a 15 is slower than a 10?



:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:....really!
Let me fire off an e-mail to myth-busters


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

I've had 10s, 12s, and 15s. No difference in speed, just output per watt and enclosure volume. 15s being slow is a ridiculous myth. Just the Fs is typically lower.

I like whatever size sub for which I can build a properly sized low tuned vented enclosure.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

As far as the myth is concerned, I don't believe it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, it happens a lot lol, but don't most of the cues for speed, impact, and attack come from the midbass/mid and tweet.?

Sure you get the fullness and impact from the sub (amount dependant on crossover frequency), but you also get what you think is speed from the higher order frequencies. Like the leading edge of it from the pedal striking a kick drum, or a stick hitting a tom. This is what I've come to understand.
True?


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## wildnimal (Mar 29, 2008)

Well my sub size preference is always 12" but i am using a 10" in a Hatchback now days and won't complain much. Totally depends upon the application though.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Danometal said:


> I've had 10s, 12s, and 15s. No difference in speed, just output per watt and enclosure volume. 15s being slow is a ridiculous myth. Just the Fs is typically lower.
> 
> I like whatever size sub for which I can build a properly sized low tuned vented enclosure.


I am thankful for people like you. I am getting 15s and I listen to metal. I will be able to debunk this myth.

As I listen to mostly deathcore,metalcore and ect. so it is full of double bass pedals.


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

jockhater2 said:


> I am thankful for people like you. I am getting 15s and I listen to metal. I will be able to debunk this myth.
> 
> As I listen to mostly deathcore,metalcore and ect. so it is full of double bass pedals.


To add to that, it's likewise a myth that ported subs are slow, or sloppy, or whatever the colloquialism used. I guess the unfortunate fact that typical prefab ported enclosures are far too small, tuned waaaay too high, and have too little port area perpetuates the myth that simply VENTING an enclosure somehow guarantees this unfortunate phenomenon, because ported prefabs do sound worse than big whoopie cushions.

Too bad many people will just miss out on the benefits of well designed vents and/or big awesome subs. Nothing like fast double bass drums sounding like they're being kicked hard right there in the car with you...


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## mhyde71 (Feb 17, 2008)

prefer the 12's w/ 4ohm dvc's

yeah


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Danometal said:


> To add to that, it's likewise a myth that ported subs are slow, or sloppy, or whatever the colloquialism used. I guess the unfortunate fact that typical prefab ported enclosures are far too small, tuned waaaay too high, and have too little port area perpetuates the myth that simply VENTING an enclosure somehow guarantees this unfortunate phenomenon, because ported prefabs do sound worse than big whoopie cushions.
> 
> Too bad many people will just miss out on the benefits of well designed vents and/or big awesome subs. Nothing like fast double bass drums sounding like they're being kicked hard right there in the car with you...


Haha. I will see how that myth goes to. Because I am either having a ported or bandpass box. I don't like high hertz. But I don't believe that myth either. Because for the past 3 years I have been using a ported box with 12s and it plays loud, clear and fast.


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## 808autoaudio (Jul 31, 2011)

I currently have 2 8" Alumapros but would prefer 10s. Unfortunately don't have the space to fit those without sacrificing some trunk space. I like to keep my trunk functional as my car is a daily driver/grocery getter/dog carrier. However, I would prefer to run 1 single large woofer vs multiple small ones to keep it simple, but once again it is a space issue. In home application, I have seen a 22" subwoofer used with no degration in speed or SQ so I am not on board with bigger means more muddy. Selecting the sub is only part of the equation.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

808autoaudio said:


> I currently have 2 8" Alumapros but would prefer 10s. Unfortunately don't have the space to fit those without sacrificing some trunk space. I like to keep my trunk functional as my car is a daily driver/grocery getter/dog carrier. However, I would prefer to run 1 single large woofer vs multiple small ones to keep it simple, but once again it is a space issue. In home application, I have seen a 22" subwoofer used with no degration in speed or SQ so I am not on board with bigger means more muddy. Selecting the sub is only part of the equation.


agreed. people dont realize how much the box plays a role in how the subwoofer will sound.


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

jockhater2 said:


> agreed. people dont realize how much the box plays a role in how the subwoofer will sound.


^ This


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

FG79 said:


> There will always be debate on woofer size....
> 
> But I think it's safe to say that multiple woofer setups in nice size enclosures provide a best of all worlds if you exclude trunk space and $$$ spent.
> 
> ...


2-15s infinite baffle dig very deep and play into the midrange with almost zero trunk space taken up. I'm pissed I didn't go with this setup years ago. The two 15s with MDF baffle weigh 41lbs which is a benefit also.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

amitaF said:


> :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:....really!
> Let me fire off an e-mail to myth-busters


Did you see the one where they did something like a 5' "sub" in the middle of the car? I can't even remember what they were testing.


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## DinLuca (Nov 5, 2009)

I currently use 2 Tang Band W8-1363SB, but they are going to my HT now, looking for some nice 12" for my car.


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## Bfat567 (Nov 30, 2010)

I currently have two 10s sealed but am looking to move to one 15 sealed.


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

10 for SQ, have a pair of 12s in the SUV, keep them turned way down. 
Personally either REAL Ultimo 10 or 12 
or Dynaudio 12


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

I think this topic had been discussed many times. So far I have gathered the following differences (assume you're comparing subwoofers withing the same series, with very similar motors):

12 inch woofers will play deeper bass with more authority.
12 inch woofers are more efficient, specially when coming to deep bass.
10 inch woofers will hit upper bass notes with better clarity and authority.
10 inch woofers need much smaller boxes, sealed or ported than 12 inch versions. This is a big consideration in a lot of car installations.

Right now, I have a 12 inch subwoofer, but I think about switching to dual 10 inch subwoofer setup, pending on whether or not I upgrade my mids up front.


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## therock482 (Aug 24, 2006)

I have had 10's and 12's ported and sealed but I always want to go back to a single ported 15. To me a single ported 15 is tight and accurate but just plays down low like the others can't.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

ZAKOH said:


> I think this topic had been discussed many times. So far I have gathered the following differences (assume you're comparing subwoofers withing the same series, with very similar motors):
> 
> 12 inch woofers will play deeper bass with more authority.
> 12 inch woofers are more efficient, specially when coming to deep bass.
> ...


15s will play the upper bass notes with just as much clarity and more authority that a similar 10". It's not the size, it's the enclosure. Again, I run my 15s to 100hz which is higher than most people run their 10s and they sound amazing up there.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

BuickGN said:


> 15s will play the upper bass notes with just as much clarity and more authority that a similar 10". It's not the size, it's the enclosure. Again, I run my 15s to 100hz which is higher than most people run their 10s and they sound amazing up there.


But will it still play deep bass in that enclosure? There is also the issue of distortions. Just because a speaker is playing a certain frequency sound it's not necessarily without distortions. 100+ hertz content is really on the edge of what most subwoofers can play. However, apparently, some subwoofers work for this duty. I have noticed from reading in reviews here that some people are crossing their ID IDQ subwoofers and a few other really good subs at like 100Hz.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

ZAKOH said:


> But will it still play deep bass in that enclosure? There is also the issue of distortions. Just because a speaker is playing a certain frequency sound it's not necessarily without distortions. 100+ hertz content is really on the edge of what most subwoofers can play. However, apparently, some subwoofers work for this duty. I have noticed from reading in reviews here that some people are crossing their ID IDQ subwoofers and a few other really good subs at like 100Hz.


These subs will play 1,000hz and sound ok doing it. I've run them at 150hz for a while and the only reason I brought them back to 100hz is they vibrate the seat backs too bad. I have a subsonic filter at 20hz but they play effortlessly down there. All of the common low notes like the 27hz tone in "Put on", the 17hz tone in "Bass I love you" all play with authority. On tones and without the subsonic, they will make the car shake even before it's audible. Around 17hz you can kind of tell there's sound in the car. At 20hz you can hear it and you have the roof, trunk, and windshield flexing. They are in an infinite baffle configuration which is known for very deep bass with very little power.


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> These subs will play 1,000hz and sound ok doing it. I've run them at 150hz for a while and the only reason I brought them back to 100hz is they vibrate the seat backs too bad. I have a subsonic filter at 20hz but they play effortlessly down there. All of the common low notes like the 27hz tone in "Put on", the 17hz tone in "Bass I love you" all play with authority. On tones and without the subsonic, they will make the car shake even before it's audible. Around 17hz you can kind of tell there's sound in the car. At 20hz you can hear it and you have the roof, trunk, and windshield flexing. They are in an infinite baffle configuration which is known for very deep bass with very little power.


Sounds like a bad ass setup


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

I've tried 10's, 12's, & 15's... 15's are by far my favorite. 

My new favorite are my pair of AE IB15's with 300 watts/sub. Buick's right, these lightweight, efficient subs can do it all. I think most that use the AE IB's run these all the way down with no infrasonic filter uless their processor doesn't allow it. 

Tied for second are a pair of Audiomobile MASS 12's sealed & a Soundstream SPL160 15 ported.

Ten's sealed just don't do it for me. Everytime I've heard 10's sealed they sound strained on the lower notes (except for Alma Gate's Bronco that had 64 PPI 10's - or were they ported?).


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## TWiZTiD859 (Mar 1, 2011)

15s FTW!!


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## Vega-LE (Feb 22, 2009)

jockhater2 said:


> Just name or list the subwoofer size you have, had, or prefer. My friend doesn't believe me that 10's are extremely common.
> 
> See he wants to do something "unique" like the loser he is. I told him 10s are extrememly popular. He wants to do 3 of them. I told him to do 8s maybe.
> 
> ...


your friend wants three subs, ok; tell your friend to find 3 12" Vega AI's. they made 12ohm versions, so run three in series for 4 ohms in a sealed box and wallah, magic.


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## Vega-LE (Feb 22, 2009)

Vega-LE said:


> your friend wants three subs, ok; tell your friend to find 3 12" Vega AI's. they made 12ohm versions, so run three in series for 4 ohms in a sealed box and wallah, magic.


for some reason they actually seem impossible to find. just as impossible as finding the ones stolen out of my truck. same goes for my two 12" LE's.


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## Vega-LE (Feb 22, 2009)

this is one thing that keeps me away from the 15's, it's that they take about 2 to 3x's the box size to house.


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## TWiZTiD859 (Mar 1, 2011)

Vega-LE said:


> this is one thing that keeps me away from the 15's, it's that they take about 2 to 3x's the box size to house.


Thats not always the case


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

Vega-LE said:


> this is one thing that keeps me away from the 15's, it's that they take about 2 to 3x's the box size to house.


IB them.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

fish said:


> IB them.


X2! I have 90% of my trunk space left with two 15s back there. They're hidden right now so if you pop the trunk you can't tell there are subs back there. I'm going to take it one step farther and take the factory skipass locking hatch that I removed and mount it behind the subs with factory looking carpet surrounding it. This way, opening the trunk looks like you're looking at the factory seatback and skipass. I'm only losing 7-8" of trunk space so unless you know the TL specifically, you would never know there are subs back there.


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## BigGeorge (Sep 25, 2010)

Buick, let's see those pics??? I want to be able to fit some 15"s in my car!!!


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> Did you see the one where they did something like a 5' "sub" in the middle of the car? I can't even remember what they were testing.


do you have a video link to that?


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> X2! I have 90% of my trunk space left with two 15s back there. They're hidden right now so if you pop the trunk you can't tell there are subs back there. I'm going to take it one step farther and take the factory skipass locking hatch that I removed and mount it behind the subs with factory looking carpet surrounding it. This way, opening the trunk looks like you're looking at the factory seatback and skipass. I'm only losing 7-8" of trunk space so unless you know the TL specifically, you would never know there are subs back there.


yeah. You need to post some pics


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## BigGeorge (Sep 25, 2010)

BuickGN, How did you mount those 15"s in the Grand National??? Compared to a JL 12w6v2 in a box, are these "better"? Let see some pics...


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Sorry for the confusion. I had some old Cerwin Vega LEs in a huge sealed box in the GN back in the mid '90s before I got obsessed with racing. Then I went with the two 12W6s sealed in the GN. Once I started the weight reduction I put the W6s in the TL where they went from sealed to ported to bandpass and finally to IB. Next I put the two AE IB15s in the TL, infinite baffle. 

The only pictures of the IB setup are during the construction stage. I'll take some new ones soon, I promise. They're kind of ugly in the pictures because I hadn't finished sealing the baffle, adding the bracing, and hiding the subs completely.

Tons of room here for a pair of 15s...








The plastic insert in the skipass is removed so the hole is much larger and there's black cloth over it which looks factory and hides the subs. Same with the rear, you can't see the subs. MS8 and wiring is all hidden too. I'm going to take that center insert with the stock locking door and mount it in the trunk with the factory looking material so when you pop the trunk it will literally look like you're looking at the back of the rear seats and ski pass lock door.

The IB setup digs much deeper effortlessly. The same was true with the 12W6s when they went from sealed to IB. The bottom end would go so low so easily and sounded amazing. The IB15s are an improvement over the W6s, especially in the upper bass range and they have much more output but the 12W6s sounded amazing too.


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## Blister64 (Jun 13, 2010)

I've experienced 10's and 12's. Personally I like 10's because of the smaller space needed. My 10W6v2's sound great, take up little space, but can get damn loud if I want. But I see your friends point... 10's are about as common as 6.5 comp sets. People just don't use 'em!


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## BigGeorge (Sep 25, 2010)

Thanks GN, that is awesome. Do you think those 15"s would work in our g body's trunk? For the price and performance it seems like a no brainer to use those 15's. I would put them on that upper rear deck in the trunk. If I could find a good core Olds 455, I'd be willing to meet you at the track someday less the car audio gear!!!


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

BigGeorge said:


> Thanks GN, that is awesome. Do you think those 15"s would work in our g body's trunk? For the price and performance it seems like a no brainer to use those 15's. I would put them on that upper rear deck in the trunk. If I could find a good core Olds 455, I'd be willing to meet you at the track someday less the car audio gear!!!


I've seen them behind the seat up on top of the step but they have to be at an angle. I was trying to break into the 9s with this car but it's never been to the track with the new engine. It makes 120hp more and weighs 400lbs less than the last time out but I don't have the money or the safety gear to ever hit that number so I'm thinking about putting a decent system in it with a single IB15 and enjoying the car again. I like the older IB15s because they only weigh 17lbs. Mine would probably be some coaxials acting like a mid/tweeter in the dash and a decent but not too heavy midbass in the doors with everything run passive off of a single small footprint amp. There's no reason I couldn't do the whole thing with a total system weight under 50lbs. It has waaaay more power than traction on the street but it wasn't easy removing 400lbs while keeping it looking stock and I don't want to undo all of that hard work with a heavy system.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

anyone interested in buying a JL 12W7?


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## phryed (Aug 5, 2011)

10s fit nicely into trucks.


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## willdabear (Oct 18, 2010)

ive always had 12's but im probably going to go with 8's for the vette


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

willdabear said:


> ive always had 12's but im probably going to go with 8's for the vette



Is it a good corvette? Like the C5, C6, Z06, ZR1. Or is the C4 which makes about 200HP.


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## willdabear (Oct 18, 2010)

jockhater2 said:


> Is it a good corvette? Like the C5, C6, Z06, ZR1. Or is the C4 which makes about 200HP.


its a c5.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Awesome. I think that is the start of the best looking ones.


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## magnumsrt806 (Apr 22, 2011)

i have only ran with 12's up until recently when i came across 2 alpine type r 10's and i like them very tight even in a slot ported box. but my fav is and probably always will be12's


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## SpiderX1016 (Apr 11, 2011)

Don't really have a preference but I like 12" subs.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Right now in my car because I sold my subs I am borrowing my brothers.

And I threw his 2 10 inch polk audio momos and his 2 15 inch orions in my car

the 15s definitely are tight and punchy. The myth is BUSTED.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

I've used 10's and 12's and heard a 15. I think sealed 12's have been my favorite.


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## jayhawker (Jun 24, 2008)

Although I chose 12" I really like the sound from the 8's. They are very accurate. I chose the 12" though cause it can pretty much do it all for my musical tastes.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

8s are no more accurate than 12s or 15s...


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## willdabear (Oct 18, 2010)

BuickGN said:


> 8s are no more accurate than 12s or 15s...


haha It seems like every time i see a post from you its trying to dispell that rumor. maybe someday people will understand


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

There was a guy on here that bas a video of 4 8s, think they were sundown, in the trunk of a car. He played a Styx song and pretty much destroyed that trunk. They could have been 10s but I doubt it.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

willdabear said:


> haha It seems like every time i see a post from you its trying to dispell that rumor. maybe someday people will understand


I used to be one of those spreading that rumor so I do my best to make up for it.


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## getonerd (Jul 24, 2007)

I love me some 12" some odd reason 15"s don't last long in my cars either I blow them or they grew legs and run off lol 
10 is my 2nd fav its was the first sub I ever own 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kram (Aug 19, 2007)

I have had 8" to 18" and the quality 8's seem to be qucker and sharper.......


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

kram said:


> I have had 8" to 18" and the quality 8's seem to be qucker and sharper.......



An 8 is not quicker than an 18, this is a myth.


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> An 8 is not quicker than an 18, this is a myth.


Lol. We have to assume it was because it was a "quality" 8. I'm with you on the myth between smaller vs larger and response. If both are good subs, and you have the power to push them, there shouldnt be any difference in response


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## kmarei (Nov 13, 2009)

The best bass I've ever heard in a car was when I had a 8" mounted to a thick wooden board that replaced the rear parcel shelf in a hatchback
Sounded damn tight
I had sealed off the trunk very well from the cabin, and it paid off


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## kmarei (Nov 13, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> An 8 is not quicker than an 18, this is a myth.


From what I remember from physics
Less mass means quicker movement
So I think it's safe to assume an 8" cone is lighter than a 12" cone


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## Nasty02M3 (Jun 5, 2011)

Used to be 15's, but now I'm running 2 12" FI BL's, and will never look back!


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## angelspeedfreak (Oct 5, 2009)

jockhater2 said:


> anyone interested in buying a JL 12W7?


I loved my old 12w7 but the box had to be so large that I lost my trunk  They are great subs, and one of the sexiest ones at that....

personally I would choose 12"s as well. I have had 10,12,15 but never an 8 or 18. 12"s just seem to hit all the notes and be best IMO.


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

I actually just ordered a JL 10W6v2. I am anxious to hear what it sounds like............that is after *I sell my amps* and find a single 6 channel I want. Subtle hint


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Nasty02M3 said:


> Used to be 15's, but now I'm running 2 12" FI BL's, and will never look back!



How do you like the BL's? Any idea what you get out of them decibel wise?


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

BuickGN said:


> I've seen them behind the seat up on top of the step but they have to be at an angle. I was trying to break into the 9s with this car but it's never been to the track with the new engine. It makes 120hp more and weighs 400lbs less than the last time out but I don't have the money or the safety gear to ever hit that number so I'm thinking about putting a decent system in it with a single IB15 and enjoying the car again. I like the older IB15s because they only weigh 17lbs. Mine would probably be some coaxials acting like a mid/tweeter in the dash and a decent but not too heavy midbass in the doors with everything run passive off of a single small footprint amp. There's no reason I couldn't do the whole thing with a total system weight under 50lbs. It has waaaay more power than traction on the street but it wasn't easy removing 400lbs while keeping it looking stock and I don't want to undo all of that hard work with a heavy system.


I know the MTX JH sub amps (black from a couple year ago) are very light, take a look at one, they have no sink just a cooler inside like a PC has. Not sure on the 4ch versions not seen one, or if they have a 5ch. That jackhammer is the lightest amp I have seen, I think.



kmarei said:


> From what I remember from physics
> Less mass means quicker movement
> So I think it's safe to assume an 8" cone is lighter than a 12" cone


Oh GOD stop! So if an 8 and 12 are making 40Hz tone at the same xmax, tell me how the 8 is faster????? To make the same _output_ it would have to move faster, because it would have to use a lot more xmax to make the same output as the 12 that is loafing along. So tell us, either way, why the speed of the cone would make any difference in the sound?


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## kmarei (Nov 13, 2009)

sqshoestring said:


> Oh GOD stop! So if an 8 and 12 are making 40Hz tone at the same xmax, tell me how the 8 is faster????? To make the same _output_ it would have to move faster, because it would have to use a lot more xmax to make the same output as the 12 that is loafing along. So tell us, either way, why the speed of the cone would make any difference in the sound?


well one question
do you often listen to test tones?

if the speaker has to quickly generate a 40 hz kick drum, for example
which speaker do you think can start moving quicker to generate the sound?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

kmarei said:


> well one question
> do you often listen to test tones?
> 
> if the speaker has to quickly generate a 40 hz kick drum, for example
> which speaker do you think can start moving quicker to generate the sound?


there is alot more to it than that. if both have a sufficiently large motor and enough power to push them, then they will both sound the same, the 12" will simply be louder. 

unless your enclosure is poorly designed, a speaker will follow the input. so a 40 hz tone will cause the speaker to move 40 times a sec. if it doesnt, then it is poorly designed speaker and has no bearing on this discussion.

no most people dont listen to test tones, but music is made up of frequencies. speakers simply respond to those freqs. weather is it test tones or music, doesnt really matter. music is just more complex.


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## kmarei (Nov 13, 2009)

minbari said:


> there is alot more to it than that. if both have a sufficiently large motor and enough power to push them, then they will both sound the same, the 12" will simply be louder.
> 
> unless your enclosure is poorly designed, a speaker will follow the input. so a 40 hz tone will cause the speaker to move 40 times a sec. if it doesnt, then it is poorly designed speaker and has no bearing on this discussion.
> 
> no most people dont listen to test tones, but music is made up of frequencies. speakers simply respond to those freqs. weather is it test tones or music, doesnt really matter. music is just more complex.


assume they both are in sealed boxes
with the same power to both, same length wire etc
everything equal
which one can generate the 40hz quicker?

as an example
2 cars, indentical except one weighs 1 ton, the other weighs 1.2 tons
which one gets to 40mph quicker?
the both end up going 40 sure, but the one with the lighter mass, gets to 40 quicker


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

lol, I dont think you understand. if something produces 40hz "quicker", its not 40hz. 40 hz is 40 cycles per second. if it produces 40 cycles in less than a second, having been fed a 40hz signal, you will have defied the laws of probebility 

we are not talking about cars. cars do not have an electrical connection with an AC wave that DRIVES the cone. the cone has no choice to move to a position according to wave phase at that mili-sec. doesnt matter what size it is.


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## kmarei (Nov 13, 2009)

minbari said:


> lol, I dont think you understand. if something produces 40hz "quicker", its not 40hz. 40 hz is 40 cycles per second. if it produces 40 cycles in less than a second, having been fed a 40hz signal, you will have defied the laws of probebility
> 
> we are not talking about cars. cars do not have an electrical connection with an AC wave that DRIVES the cone. the cone has no choice to move to a position according to wave phase at that mili-sec. doesnt matter what size it is.


you think a subwoofer goes from standstill to 40hz instantaneously?
it starts vibrating till it produces the required frequcny

if we could measure the time from when you start the test tone
till you get the required output
so say when you click play, till the speaker accelerates to 40hz
i have no doubt the 8" would be quicker than say an 18"

furthermore
let's say we are testing with a single kick drum
both speakers will generate the required frequency
but which woofer do you think will come to a standstill quicker?
i know we're talking microseconds here or even smaller, but still
an item with more mass can't perform the same as an item with less mass
when what is required from them is movement


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## willdabear (Oct 18, 2010)

Lol if the 2 cars are identical then why does one weigh more than the other? I understand what your trying to say but your just not understanding what he is saying. Yeah the 12 might have more mass to move but it will still do it in the same amount of time. The only difference between the two if were talking about physics is that moving more mass means using more energy


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## radwilsons5803 (Dec 2, 2010)

Ive used every size from 6.5" - 18" subs. For me it depends on space and what my objectives are for each new build


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

kmarei said:


> i know we're talking microseconds here or even smaller, but still


hit the nail on the head. since 100 hz and under is still well into the mili-sec range. who cares.


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

A frequency is a frequency. Either it is able to be reproduced or it isn't. The only time a larger speaker will be less responsive than a smaller one is if its of a poorer quality or not adequately powered. That's just physics


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

if you have proper motor, and power then I don't see why a bigger speaker wouldn't keep up with a smaller speaker.

Isn't that why you put a more powerful engine in a car that is heavier. To make it equal to that of a smaller, lighter car?


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## BigGeorge (Sep 25, 2010)

So from all that I have read, choosing the largest size driver that could physically fit inside the vehicle should be the choice to go with. 

Also, if larger subs are just as quick as smaller ones, why would anyone want something smaller than a 15" or 18'" if that sub could fit in the vehicle? 

I know my methodology is a bit elementary. All I do know about car audio is that I want something that is going to rock no matter what music genre is played and sound equally as good at low volumes as it does as high volumes. 

I'm sure sq is not having silver back guerrillas in the trunk trying to escape. However I want that and I want it to sound good too.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

What you might be seeing is a lighter cone will tend to play higher frequency better because it is lighter and can respond faster, that is why tweeters have near no cone mass. Just the same a driver that fits in/on your ear can make the same bass as subs in a car, how can that be, does it sound better or worse?

Cone mass can tune a speaker for higher or lower frequency; where the speaker 'likes' to play, but the speaker is still driven by a signal it has no choice in that matter. A tweeter can make 20Hz, a sub can make treble frequencies if the motor is able to move it that fast. Large pro sound drivers make high frequency regularly, as do large full range speakers. It generally does not work the best to do that in car audio, but can be done and is when there is a reason to.

You will also hear with similar design subs the smaller one will play higher with no EQ, because it likes to, but will still play what its told to play. Just the dB will be higher at the frequencies it is more efficient at....until your install, box, crossover, and EQ change that.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

BigGeorge said:


> So from all that I have read, choosing the largest size driver that could physically fit inside the vehicle should be the choice to go with.
> 
> Also, if larger subs are just as quick as smaller ones, why would anyone want something smaller than a 15" or 18'" if that sub could fit in the vehicle?


some of it is practicality. a 8" driver will require .5 cuft or less and an 18 will require a 5cuft box (as an example) if you dont want to take your whole trunk space up for a box (or dont have that much space) then an 18" may not work for you. price is another consideration. larger drivers ussualy cost more.

all things being equal an 8" driver will not dig as deep as a larger driver either. (although people may disagree with me on that point)


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

BigGeorge said:


> So from all that I have read, choosing the largest size driver that could physically fit inside the vehicle should be the choice to go with.
> 
> Also, if larger subs are just as quick as smaller ones, why would anyone want something smaller than a 15" or 18'" if that sub could fit in the vehicle?
> 
> ...


To put it simply with Sq you want to get down to 20Hz right, to get every frequency covered. Even outside that its nice to get to 30Hz with some authority right? If you look at the IB response of subs you will see a 15 is the smallest that typically can play flat to under 30Hz, just because it can be tuned that low and move enough air for typical in-car use.

You can't fit a huge box for a 15/18 if you are not going IB, so you use a smaller sub like a 12 or 10, and you port it to 30 or you buy an expensive big xmax sub that will play lower than an ordinary sub would....to get that low. So its a matter of typical use I'd say, to get 30Hz that is what most people do. Either 10/12/15/18 will play up to 80Hz just fine so the top end does not matter its a fairly small range of frequency. It is all about getting to 30-35 or less Hz, if you don't need that smaller subs can get it done. Well the extra cone area makes more output at sub frequencies too, can't forget that.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

minbari said:


> all things being equal an 8" driver will not dig as deep as a larger driver either. (although people may disagree with me on that point)


Not me. They will play it, but the dB is so low you can't hear it. The lower you go the more air (or multiples of air) you have to displace and that is where the larger cone has the advantage, and compared to multiple small drivers it is tuned lower making the response smoother. While more xmax works, there gets a point where the air is going to 'fall off' a small driver with huge xmax. It is nice to have a lot of different subs to choose from now, quite a selection out there these days.

On the other hand lets say someone has a 10 IB and really likes it but needs more output. If you stay away from Vas, he could drop three more in for quads and I bet he would still like the sound it would be very close to the same but more of it. If he put 15 in instead, it would go deeper, but maybe he does not want it any deeper? So it does depend on the sound you want.


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

Nasty02M3 said:


> Used to be 15's, but now I'm running 2 12" FI BL's, and will never look back!


What amp(s) do you feed power to those from?


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

I prefer a single 12 because, with my trunk being my sub space, I can build a proper vented enclosure for it and tune it to 25 hz with plenty of port area, whereas I cannot do the same for a 15, or dual 12s. 

Let me get a SUV and that will change.


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## wooferdog (Mar 31, 2011)

i went from 3 12 inch jl w3's to 2 jl 13w6v2's ,still working out the amp to use.


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## humandrummachine (May 17, 2010)

18's to me are classic and natural


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## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

Just got my 10W6v2 last week. I will post a review in a week or so.


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## Blister64 (Jun 13, 2010)

wooferdog said:


> i went from 3 12 inch jl w3's to 2 jl 13w6v2's ,still working out the amp to use.


JL HD 1200/1  Or at least something with that much power. I've got 1000 watts going to 2 10 W6v2's and they rock. Figured yours could use a little more, and I love JL!


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## RazorTaz18 (Jun 1, 2011)

My vote is for a single 12


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## EazyM3 (Sep 15, 2006)

singe 15.


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## underdog (Jul 5, 2011)

minbari said:


> some of it is practicality. a 8" driver will require .5 cuft or less and an 18 will require a 5cuft box (as an example) if you dont want to take your whole trunk space up for a box (or dont have that much space) then an 18" may not work for you. price is another consideration. larger drivers ussualy cost more.
> 
> all things being equal an 8" driver will not dig as deep as a larger driver either. (although people may disagree with me on that point)


This also applies to the power requirement.
You can run a power sipping small foot print amp for the 8"
The 15" is going to need big power to perform.

What i am trying to think about?
How does size of interior calculate in?
Subs move air. 
Got a cool smart car; you shoe horn your 15" in there and find enough power (generator on a trailer?) to feed a proper amplifier. 

Is there enough air in the vehicle for the Sub to work with?

Maybe there is more to size of vehicle in relation to size of Sub.


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## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

Two 8"'s in a ported enclosure in a Accord coupe. Plenty of bass for me.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

underdog said:


> This also applies to the power requirement.
> You can run a power sipping small foot print amp for the 8"
> The 15" is going to need big power to perform.
> 
> ...



Actually, it's the opposite. The 15 will need less power all else being equal. I'm feeding my pair of 15s less than most people feed a single 8.

The only downside of the larger subs is fitment.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I have 350rms on my pair of pyle 15s IB. It is enough for music and any kind of Sq down to 30Hz and lower. It was louder with 500rms on those aggression release moments, so not sure I will stick with 350rms. 500 makes the roof vibrate with bass CDs.


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Mythbusters - Subwoofer episode - YouTube

Now everybody knows that the fastest subwoofer ever built runs off a drivehsaft!


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## underdog (Jul 5, 2011)

You guys missed my point on power for amp.
I read somewhere here to take Alt rating and subtract (75% ?) to get the output your Alt has for your pleasure.
So i then made another Assumption.
It takes HP to power an Alt - It takes fuel to make HP - So i gave the smart car a generous 45amp Alt - 75% = 11.25amps available for your sonic pleasure.

Also i was thinking about thread going on about speed of subs VS size.
There what i got was that a larger sub with greater moving mass will need adequate power to make it perform. 

That sure was a lot of typing.
Hope i got it all straight.


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## martin71a (Sep 12, 2011)

10" Image Dynamics - sealed in Cobalt Coupe

Personal preference is tight, musical bass but the 10" still provides me plenty of punch.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

underdog said:


> You guys missed my point on power for amp.
> I read somewhere here to take Alt rating and subtract (75% ?) to get the output your Alt has for your pleasure.
> So i then made another Assumption.
> It takes HP to power an Alt - It takes fuel to make HP - So i gave the smart car a generous 45amp Alt - 75% = 11.25amps available for your sonic pleasure.
> ...


The larger subs are more efficient and have a stronger motor to control the higher moving mass. Some large subs like my 15s have a Mms lower than many 12s.

Regardless, all else being equal, large subs require less power for the same SPL.


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## amkarlix (Oct 22, 2009)

10's


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## 81maliblue (Dec 6, 2010)

13.5 jl


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

JL Audio 13W7 and a 13 Focal subwoofer, but I prefer 10"


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## maKe| (Sep 12, 2009)

The bigger the better. 15" is minimium if talking about sub bass performance. Less distortion and cone movement for given spl vs smaller cones.
I would do 18" if space would allow. TC 5400-LMS or Exodus Mal-X 18". But I'm happy with my 15" Tempest X-2. Maybe try with Sealed or close to 20Hz tune next with it.

Tried it in home theater setup also because friend wanted to know how it performed there. With 1200W through it stuff started to fall from walls and entire room was filled with air and clean low bass.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

maKe| said:


> The bigger the better. 15" is minimium if talking about sub bass performance. Less distortion and cone movement for given spl vs smaller cones.
> I would do 18" if space would allow. TC 5400-LMS or Exodus Mal-X 18". But I'm happy with my 15" Tempest X-2. Maybe try with Sealed or close to 20Hz tune next with it.
> 
> Tried it in home theater setup also because friend wanted to know how it performed there. With 1200W through it stuff started to fall from walls and entire room was filled with air and clean low bass.


That is what I just learned. I had a couple of friends all telling me to get 10" because I listen to metal. They all said 15s would be slow. But IT IS SUCH A MYTH. It barely has to move.


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## billbillw (Aug 25, 2009)

Through the entire 1990's, I ran four 8" subs mounted in a face to face isobaric arrangement in a vented box. Had it in 3 different cars in a couple of different boxes (just slight variations). It sounded great to me for all those years. More recently, I went with a single 10" Dayton in a vented box. Was never entirely happy with that arrangement though. Just didn't have the natural sound that the four 8's had. My current build in progress is going to use 8's again, but just going to do free air on them due to my need for trunk space. Luckily, I've managed to collect four matching old school 8" Kicker FreeAirs to use. I probably would have used two 10" free airs if I could have found a set, but two of the 8s just kinda fell in my lap. The other two I sought out and found. My rear deck does not have enough usable space put 12" free airs.


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## redbaronace (Sep 27, 2011)

Couldn't go bigger than 8's due to space and size requirements.


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## artg75 (Aug 27, 2011)

Will the car size makes any difference? Let say Sedans with 10' vs hatchback with 10'
Wont the bass be louder in the hatchback rather than in the sedan?


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

artg75 said:


> Will the car size makes any difference? Let say Sedans with 10' vs hatchback with 10'
> Wont the bass be louder in the hatchback rather than in the sedan?


I would think that the bass will be "perceived" as louder. Because of the smaller space.


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## artg75 (Aug 27, 2011)

jockhater2 said:


> I would think that the bass will be "perceived" as louder. Because of the smaller space.


Correct me if i'm wrong.. But the way i think about it is that in a hatchback,the sub is "in the same room with driver" whereas in sedan it will be in the trunk, therefore a bigger sub ( 12' )will do a better job than a 10'


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

artg75 said:


> Correct me if i'm wrong.. But the way i think about it is that in a hatchback,the sub is "in the same room with driver" whereas in sedan it will be in the trunk, therefore a bigger sub ( 12' )will do a better job than a 10'


but the trunk can act as a 2nd box for the subs is what I have heard. And can help mature the bass notes more. The more mature the bass notes the louder it will be.

But that is just what I have read. I have no idea. I have a sedan. And I cut out the rear deck. So that way my trunk is no longer sealed from the me.


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## Sub-A-Roo (Oct 25, 2011)

i HAD a 12'' Sony Xplod subwoofer but im selling it soon to buy a 15'', It was a cheap one (about 150$) i bought when i first got my car so you can guess it wasn't that good


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## Sub-A-Roo (Oct 25, 2011)

Sub-A-Roo said:


> i HAD a 12'' Sony Xplod subwoofer but im selling it soon to buy a 15'', It was a cheap one (about 150$) i bought when i first got my car so you can guess it wasn't that good


sorry "have", what was i thinking :shrug:


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## stony22 (Apr 24, 2011)

Overall my favorite is two 18's, JBL 2245h pro subs, they were awsome, miss them, but not for long switching up the w15gti's out for some new 18's here soon


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## mht_v10 (Dec 10, 2005)

I like 1 12"


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## RaveShow (Mar 14, 2011)

Im getting a little older now...One quality 10 with a ton of power works for me


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## Angrywhopper (Jan 20, 2010)

I love 8" woofers. Not a big bass head at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bigdexxx (Oct 27, 2011)

Other the years I've had different setups:

4 - 8" Kicker Solobarics (the original round ones)

2 - 12" RF Punch 

3 - 12" RE SE 

I haven't even tried 10" subs yet, but I will get soon.


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## pastrol (Apr 23, 2011)

10's are easier to install space wise, but 12's will give that kick and better lows. Comparing similar models that is!!


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

pastrol said:


> 10's are easier to install space wise, but 12's will give that kick and better lows. Comparing similar models that is!!


15s have better kick


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## radarcontact (Oct 28, 2010)

(long, I got carried away)

- I currently have an IDQ12 (12"). Smooth and strong.
- I used to have a box I designed that was a double compound isobaric using to internal and two external 8". Holy sh*t! I loved it until one of the subs had a mechanical failure. It made me hear notes I had never heard before, and haven't heard since. Amazing design (if I do say so myself).
- in my home system, I currently have two JBL 12" subs run off a 1000w plate amp. Niiiiice...
- before that, I had my personally-designed reference set of home speakers (we're talking 1988) that had double 10" cheapo Pioneer poly speakers in each cabinet. But, again, the design was so good (took me 8 months) that they sounded incredible. The cones barely moved, but put out window shaking bass that you felt in your bones (drivers by themselves had fs of 27hz and the speaker system was 93db efficient). I'll never forget my older brother giving it "the test" with a LaserDisc of Apocalypse Now, the helicopter scene with the score Ride of the Valkyries playing. I kept turning it up until he went from nodding, to smiling uncontrollably, to just laughing hysterically in awe of it all... Next thing I know, my wife is running out the front door with the kids in her arms with a "YOU are frikkin' DEAD!!," look on her face. Yeah...oops.
My brother said he'd never experienced anything that intense before; a true compliment since he had just graduated with a Cinematography degree from NYU.

(I ran those off an old Mitsubishi Dual Monoblock amp similar to this one. I miss that amp!)










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## Linear Power (Feb 14, 2011)

For SQ purposes, 10" with the perfect sub box is more than enough.


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## pwlabrat (Sep 22, 2009)

I had a Bazooka Tube with two 6" drivers that really had accurate, detailed bass but not booming. I now have a 10" with ported box that gives much more boom but not as detailed.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

pwlabrat said:


> I had a Bazooka Tube with two 6" drivers that really had accurate, detailed bass but not booming. I now have a 10" with ported box that gives much more boom but not as detailed.


Put it in a larger box....


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## 96jimmyslt (Jan 31, 2011)

I prefer 15's

Had a 15, cheap boss onyx nx159 dc. got it really cheap in a 4.0 ported box

slammed so hard, even on just 125/250w per coil.

I wish I never got rid of it.


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## zreon (Jul 29, 2011)

I currently run a single 10 and have always run 10's. A good one can hit plenty hard enough for me. If it can blow a sunroof out, its loud enough.


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## Elektrospeed (Nov 21, 2011)

It all depends on box design and quality of the woofers, but in my experience the same model being 10" or 12", the 12" sounds deeper. IMO 12" gives a good compromise between SPL and SQ. 

Had a 15" L7 on a ported encolsure, it got very loud and low but SQ wise it was too muddy for my taste.


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## dsauce16 (Feb 2, 2011)

radarcontact said:


> (long, I got carried away)
> 
> - I currently have an IDQ12 (12"). Smooth and strong.


is that a v3 or v2 youre talking about. im looking to try a v3 as i have a v2 now.


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## HARE81 (Dec 13, 2011)

2 10's and a 13 @ 8 ohms in parallel ..


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

HARE81 said:


> 2 10's and a 13 @ 8 ohms in parallel ..


what an odd and interesting combination


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## Truth (Dec 15, 2011)

Currently have a 10" and I'm a fan of the crispness sq wise. Do miss my old 12" though as it seemed to dig deeper though, of course it had a larger custom made box as well. Thinking about upgrading back to a 12" soon.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

When a "yoof" my 18" Stroker D2
When a little older 2 x DEI CompX 12"
No I've grown up and left SPL behind 1x 10"
When I get my new, bigger, car 2x 8" or maybe 2 x 10" (depends on the box volume I can get under the front seats)


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

This is a pointless thread.

A subwoofer size should be chosen based on individual system goals and limitations. There is no one subwoofer size that is superior to another without addressing those issues first.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

I believe all else being equal, a good 15 is superior to an 8, 10, and a 12 in every way other than space requirements and that can be solved by going IB. I'll never run anything smaller than a pair of 15s for my SQ system as long as the car allows it.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

edouble101 said:


> This is a pointless thread.
> 
> A subwoofer size should be chosen based on individual system goals and limitations. There is no one subwoofer size that is superior to another without addressing those issues first.


i started it to prove my friend wrong. he thought 15s were the most over rated size.


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## 0tt3r (Dec 20, 2011)

10" personally, easier to hide. In a perfect thief free world, 2x 10's or 12's.


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## jam0o0 (Nov 30, 2010)

size is only part of the formula. i had 2 10's in my first truck. they were loud in the right box for those speakers, with a good amp. then i put them in a different box with terrible signal to the amps and they were terrible. i've had those same ten's or 2 12's or a 15 in another truck. the tens couldn't move enough air in the big SUV. the 12's were in the perfect ported box to get loud. they were silly loud but not accurate at all. the 15 was sealed in the right size box and it was the most accurate thing i've heard. the speaker size doesn't matter. everything being built to fit that car and the parts fitting with each other is the important thing.


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## JWAT15 (Mar 6, 2011)

15's seems to accurately always reproduce what "i" enjoy from a woofer.. not to say that a 12 or 10 cant do that just depends on so many variables.

my vote is 15


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## MikeT1982 (Jul 6, 2011)

Personally I like the sound of a 10" sub. And many of them. A trio of efficent 10's sealed like JL Audio W0's or W3's or even oldschool W6's with 300-600wrms will always be a favorite configuration. I enjoy 12's also. They move more air and go lower and are better ground pounders in my opinion. Fifteens i dislike in trunk setups, i have often had to role windows down for them to get loud. On the other hand....the BEST Sound Q and SPL combo i ever ran was a pair of Digital Designs 9515's powered by 4 MMATS D300HC's in a 14 cubic ft wall with 300 square inches of port tuned to 45Hz inches behind my head in my old neon! Sooo it all depends on the setup. That setup yeilded me consistant 150's on technobass yet would play Beethoven and pipe organ like a freakin live performance...incredible.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

MikeT1982 said:


> Personally I like the sound of a 10" sub. And many of them. A trio of efficent 10's sealed like JL Audio W0's or W3's or even oldschool W6's with 300-600wrms will always be a favorite configuration. I enjoy 12's also. They move more air and go lower and are better ground pounders in my opinion. Fifteens i dislike in trunk setups, i have often had to role windows down for them to get loud. On the other hand....the BEST Sound Q and SPL combo i ever ran was a pair of Digital Designs 9515's powered by 4 MMATS D300HC's in a 14 cubic ft wall with 300 square inches of port tuned to 45Hz inches behind my head in my old neon! Sooo it all depends on the setup. That setup yeilded me consistant 150's on technobass yet would play Beethoven and pipe organ like a freakin live performance...incredible.


Sounds like a setup problem. The 15 should always be more accurate with lower distortion assuming the correct installation. Having to lower the windows has nothing to do with the sub itself.


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

SQ bores me


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## MikeT1982 (Jul 6, 2011)

I agree totally on setup prob...many 15's i've run into needed windows rolled down in trunk setups/hatch setups. And i thought it was a 15 issue untill i ran the wall setup and the 15's played everything loudly and clearly, windows up or down. Like a fella said above i think all size woofers def have thier place!


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

MikeT1982 said:


> I agree totally on setup prob...many 15's i've run into needed windows rolled down in trunk setups/hatch setups. And i thought it was a 15 issue untill i ran the wall setup and the 15's played everything loudly and clearly, windows up or down. Like a fella said above i think all size woofers def have thier place!


That is odd. Because I switched from 2 12s to 15s and the only difference is more SPL.

And never roll the windows down. It is winter.


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## TheScottishBear (Feb 3, 2011)

I don't really have a preference. I have run a single 12", 3 12", 6 12" all sealed. I have also run 1 18" and two 18" IB. Now I am building a wall for 3 18" sealed and have a 10" midbass in each door. Not an sq system by any means but it makes me happy and that's all that matters.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

The most cone area I can fit. Dont matter the size, the box makes the sound the woofer size just makes the dbs. I like to keep a 2 woofer set up just to keep ohm loads normal


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Two 8" ported or one 10" sealed depending on vehicle size. They're about even. Anything more and you're driving a bus or simply a bass head (simple IB setups gets a pass).


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## bigfdaddy (Dec 29, 2009)

I actually prefer 12's and it gotta be kicker solo classics....best all around size to catch some good lows and decent highs....

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