# Help with installing viper 5706v



## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

I just bought a new daily driver and it came with an alarm/remote start that I would love to put in before winter. The car is a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a manual transmission (no factory alarm) and the alarm is a Viper 5706v. It came with a few extras too the guy said I would need to install it. Some sort of key bypass (dei 556u) and a battery back-up (dei 520t). It also came with a glass break sensor (dei 506t) and a 2 smaller piezo sirens.

Well I went to the local audio shop and to hook everything up they quoted me like half of what I paid for the car! Lol So I would like to try and install this myself. I'm pretty confused to be honest. Lol Mostly on what wires I need to be using from the alarms harnesses. Like I've found most the wires in my car already at the ignition and above the fuse box that I will need to use. I'm mostly confused on which wires from the alarms harnesses I need to be hooking up and which ones can I de-pin. I know alot of the wires won't be used so if someone could help me with which wires I could just depin and get rid of all together that would help a ton. That way I can focus on what I actually need to be hooking up and start from there. I attached a couple pics of the alarm wiring diagram and my cars wiring diagram. Thanks for any help in advance!


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Main harness, 4,6 not needed
Doorlock harness, both needed
Aux harness, 1-4, 6-9,11, 16-19, 21-24 not needed
RS harness 3 not needed, 4 possibly if your car has a second ignition/accessory not litsted in your diagram.

I never de-pin security/rs installs, just trim the spare wires to about two inches and tape/shrink them individually. You might need one of those extra connections down the road.

You will need to diode isolate both door pins if you use the instant trigger for the hatch.

You can connect pin 3 of the aux harness to your negative door trigger to turn on the domelight when you disarm, but it's not necessary for the RS/security to function.

What was the labor quote?


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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

Check the battery manufacture date if you decide to install the 520t. Not really a necessary item for a daily driver IMO.

Add a relay for the sirens should you decide to install more than 2. 
I had sirens collecting dust so I added a total of 6 to my work truck. No minis though.
2 under hood one in front bumper 2 in rear bumper and one interior.
Loud and unique sounding. I know when it's my alarm going off....the remote also alerts me.

A tilt sensor is something I had always considered adding but never have....even after watching my truck being towed in silemce...til the 1st speed bump.

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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Dang, this is harder than I expected. Lol

Well I got a few things wired up. I ran the siren and hood pin in the engine bay. I also ran the antenna up by the rear view mirror and mounted the piezo siren under the dash.

For the main harness I connected the #1 red wire on alarm harness to a unused constant 12v terminal at the fuse box. #2 black wire on alarm harness I grounded to a factory ground. #3 brown wire on alarm harness I split in to 2 wires and ran each one to the power on my two sirens and grounded the sirens. And then finally I hooked the #5 white wire on the alarm up to the parking lamp (+) green/white wire at the driver kick panel.

I also got the door lock harness wired. I ran the #1 blue wire from harness to to the green/red (unlock) wire in the driver kick panel. Then I ran the #3 green wire from harness to the violet wire (lock) in the driver kick panel.

Thats about as far as I got. Hopefully I did that all right. But after that, I wasn't sure what to do. For the auxiliary harness wires you told me to use I'm not sure what to do with some of them.

#5 - dark blue wire [(-)200mA status output] What do I connect this wire to and what does it do?

#10 - blue wire. [(-) trunk pin/instant trigger input]
What do I do with this exactly? Is this what I needed diodes on?

#12 - violet/white wire. [Tachometer input]
Where do I connect this wire to exactly?

#13 - black/white wire. [E-brake input]
I didn't see a location or color mentioned in that wiring diagram for the e brake input wire. Would i connect this to the wire on the e brake handle directly? It only has one wire coming off it, a yellow/green one. I'm assuming that's where I connect to.

#14 - green/black wire [(-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output] 
Do I really need to hook this up if my car doesn't have the factory alarm? If so, what do I hook it up to?

#15 - green wire [(-) door input]
How do I hook this up? Do I connect this to my door triggers? If so, how? 


I also noticed you say to not use the horn honk and hood pin input. Any reason you suggest not using them? I already ran my hood pin. I can take it out if its not really needed though.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Steve_o024 said:


> Check the battery manufacture date if you decide to install the 520t. Not really a necessary item for a daily driver IMO.
> 
> Add a relay for the sirens should you decide to install more than 2.
> I had sirens collecting dust so I added a total of 6 to my work truck. No minis though.
> ...


I only ended up running 2 sirens for now. One regular one under the hood and one piezo under the dash. I might hook up the horn honk if its not loud enough. I kinda thought the battery back up was a good idea though. Just incase they cut power real quick id like the alarm to keep going off. I doubt anyone would keep messing with it after that.


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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

Honduh said:


> I only ended up running 2 sirens for now. One regular one under the hood and one piezo under the dash. I might hook up the horn honk if its not loud enough. I kinda thought the battery back up was a good idea though. Just incase they cut power real quick id like the alarm to keep going off. I doubt anyone would keep messing with it after that.[/QUOTEI hear ya but check the battery manufacture date before installing. There are a lot of old ones out there that may not have much life left after sitting for years sometimes.
> 
> IMO most people tune out alarms blaring from hearing them so often. My setup eliminates the "Is that my alarm going off?"
> 
> My interior siren is just to annoy anyone that chooses to burgle my work truck.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

status out goes to the 556u. Lets the bypass know when the remote start is active.

trunk pin goes to the wiring at your hatch light

tach goes to a white wire in a one pin connector in the underhood fuse box. Alternatly you can program the rs for timed start and not use this wire.

ebrake input goes to the wire at the ebrake

factory disarm isn't needed if you're sure there is no OEM alarm.

door input gets connectes to both door pin wires, you must isolate the two OEM wires with diodes.(driver/passenger door trigger in your wire chart)

You can use the horn honk, but dei uses a pulse thats too long by default, I think it's programmable for faster timing though. I never use it if there is a siren.

I hate the cheap hoodpins that come with these alarms, a little surface rust three months later they dont work anyways.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> status out goes to the 556u. Lets the bypass know when the remote start is active.
> 
> trunk pin goes to the wiring at your hatch light
> 
> ...


 Okay, cool. I haven't started with the remote start harness/556u yet so I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get to that. I'm good at soldering and running wires but I quickly realized beyond that I don't really know what I'm doing. Lol

So I cut the hood pin/horn honk/factory alarm wires off the auxiliary harness. For the brake pedal/e-brake/trunk pin wires do I actually have to go to those locations for my connections or is there a more convenient area up front in the dash/kick panel area I can attach to? I guess the brake pedal/e-brake wires wouldn't be bad, but id rather not run a wire all the way back to the trunk for the trunk pin if I can avoid it.

And im still not sure what to do with the green wire. I've never used a diode before. I'm assuming I just take 2 diodes and connect them to the green wire and run each one to each door trigger. What kind of diode do I use exactly? I know diodes only flow one way, which way do the need to go exactly?


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

And I probably won't install the battery back up, it says its from 2011. I'm thinking a 10 year old battery isn't going to do much. I think I'll just add a siren with a battery back up later if I'm worried about it. 

What do you guys think about the glass break sensor? Is that worth hooking up? I know you can break a window pretty quietly and that sensor should still pick it up. But as soon as a door or trunk gets opened or any vibration is detected the alarm should go off anyway so I'm not sure if that's really needed or not.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Your wiring diagram has the locations of the wires listed. 

Any small rectifier diode should be fine. I attached a pic from 12volt.com showing how to use them.

Glass break isn't hard to install, might as well use it.


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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

SSinstaller said:


> I hate the cheap hoodpins that come with these alarms, a little surface rust three months later they dont work anyways.


I concur.
I pulled a oem hood pin switch from a JY donor truck for my install specifically for this reason.









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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

Honduh said:


> And I probably won't install the battery back up, it says its from 2011. I'm thinking a 10 year old battery isn't going to do much. I think I'll just add a siren with a battery back up later if I'm worried about it.
> 
> What do you guys think about the glass break sensor? Is that worth hooking up? I know you can break a window pretty quietly and that sensor should still pick it up. But as soon as a door or trunk gets opened or any vibration is detected the alarm should go off anyway so I'm not sure if that's really needed or not.


Use it.
A lot of thieves will break a window and grab the goods without disturbing shock sensors or opening doors.

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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

SSinstaller said:


> Your wiring diagram has the locations of the wires listed.
> 
> Any small rectifier diode should be fine. I attached a pic from 12volt.com showing how to use them.
> 
> Glass break isn't hard to install, might as well use it.


I mainly use the 1n404 

I can't believe that I still have this. See pic.
They're no longer made.









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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

The DEI 508D come in handy for additional protection also.
They're not just for jeeps and convertibles. 

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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Thanks for the help so far guys, I definitely would be in over my head trying to do this by myself. I'll wire in the glass break sensor too. Looks easy, just add it to your shock sensor. I completely forgot I need a key for the 556u and I only have one. So I'll need to have a key made and get some diodes tomorrow. 

And I havent even tried yet but might as well plan it out now. How do I wire up the remote start and 556u exactly? The 556u looks easy. It only has 6 wires on its harness and the manual says 3 are optional. Is that right? Do I just have to connect the red 12v, black ground, and blue input wire and not use the other 3? And do I have to use the ring around the ignition or can I connect it to my car directly? The manual says some cars you can cut the ring off and hardwire it, I just don't know which method I should use for my car. This whole style of bypass seems weird. Lol

And im pretty confused on which wires go where on the remote start harness honestly. All the different ignition and accessory wires, I get confused. Lol I know you guys said I don't need to use pin 3 or 4 and pin 1 is empty. So what about the other 7 wires on the harness? If someone could tell me where those wires on the r/s harness need to be connected to on my car that would be awesome. I took my ignition harness apart so I can easily see all the wires I need, Im just not sure where each wire on the r/s harness needs to connect in the car exactly.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Oh, and I forgot to ask earlier but how can I hook up my rear defrost to be able to be turned on with the remote start? That would be a awesome feature to have for the winter months.


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## Steve_o024 (May 30, 2020)

Honduh said:


> What kind of diode do I use exactly? I know diodes only flow one way, which way do the need to go exactly?


You don't need anything more than the 1n404 diodes.

I suggest heading to www.the12volt.com and do some research to learn a lil about 12v installs before diving head first into unknown waters. Plenty of diagrams there to took at.

In no way am I trying to be condescending.

And by no means am I a professional certified installer or anything even close. I just prefer installing my own and the aforementioned website was very helpful for me when I wanted to learn ...and I still get confused with wiring up relays, diodes and whatnot since installs are few and far between for me.

I used to tell people "Just don't look under my dash." after my first few installs.

Everything worked but the rat nest of wires was comical.
Nowadays my installs are so much more clean and I'm not afraid to try things to make things how I want them. My Uniden R3 install is something I'm quite proud of.

I've always been very grateful to folks like @SSinstaller for the sharing of knowledge. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

conect the 556u exactly like this.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

On the main ignition harness all the red wires are 12v input, pink is ignition out, green is starter in, violet is starter out, and orange is accessory out.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Defrost is yellow/red at the hvac controls. It is a negative trigger. The diagram doesn't show if it's momentary or latched so you'll have to test for that.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> On the main ignition harness all the red wires are 12v input, pink is ignition out, green is starter in, violet is starter out, and orange is accessory out.


Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don't know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though. I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.

The green and violet wires make sense (connect to each side of my black/red (+) starter wire at ignition harness)

But then I also don't understand what the orange and pink wires do exactly. You say pink is ignition out and orange is accessory out. So do I just connect the pink wire to my ignition 1 wire (green +) at ignition harness and the orange wire to accessory 1 wire (blue/red +) at my ignition harness?


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> Defrost is yellow/red at the hvac controls. It is a negative trigger. The diagram doesn't show if it's momentary or latched so you'll have to test for that.


I have no idea what any of this means. Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don't know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though. I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.
> 
> *All the red wires will go to the constant 12v in the ignition harness. *
> 
> ...


Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You'll need to connect it for the remote start.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> I have no idea what any of this means. Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?


Set your meter to the continuity setting. One probe goes to the defrost wire, one to ground. 
Press the defrost button.

If the meter tones when you press the button, and stops when you release the button, it's momentary. You'll need to connect it to one of the aux outputs and trigger it manually with your fob after the car is running.


If the meter tones when you press the button and continuies even after releasing the button it's latched. You can connect it to the -200ma ignition 1 output in the auxillary harness and it will turn on with the remote start..


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Okay cool. Thanks man, you've been a huge help. The remote start is what was confusing me the most. On all those power wires on the r/s harness I thought they needed to go to accessory and ignition 12v by the way they are described in the manual. So I was really confused what to do with the wires that are actually supposed to go to the accessory and ignition wires! This is my first time even looking at a alarm so its been alot to take in. Lol

I think I've pretty much got all the wiring figured out now. Only question I have left I guess is whats the best way to give a constant 12v to all these power wires? I have 3 for the remote start, one for the alarm brain, and one for the 556u. Should I really go to the ignition wire for all of them or is there a better method? I'd like to keep it as stealth as possible. But it just seems like alot to try and attach 5 power wires to same wire at the ignition harness. Just wondering if there's a better way to do it?


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

The 556u and alarm12v leads can be tapped into the red 12v rs lead between the brain and the big fuse on that wire. The other two 12v wires can be tied together right after the fuses on those wires. Then you only have two 12v wires to attach to your ignition harnes. 

If you have more than one 12v ignition wire attach one of the rs wires to each 12v wire in your cars harness.

The ignition harness is already powering everything the RS powers, so there is not harm connecting the Alram/RS to it. 

Alarms are just a deterrent to stop the smash and grab/crackead thiefs. Any thief that knows enough to get under the dash and disconnect this stuff is going to get what he wants. 
It's just a waste of time trying to get super creative hiding stuff, and it makes troubleshooting a nightmare if you have problems or want to add features later.

All your connections should be soldered, no butt connectors, no T-taps.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

The car only has one constant 12v wire at the ignition. Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire. Two connections shouldn't be bad. There just isn't a ton of room.

Just wondering though, is there a reason I can't go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything. Two wires isn't a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> The car only has one ignition wire. Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire at the ignition. Two connections shouldn't be bad. There just isn't a ton of room.
> 
> Just wondering though, is there a reason I can't go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything. Two wires isn't a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.


If there is only one constant wire in the car you can tie all the Alarm/RS power wires together. Just be sure not to cut off any of the fuses on the RS harness.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Cool thats what I'll do. Ill just tie all 3 fused wires together just after the fuses and then tie in the alarm and 556u power wires between the fuse and alarm brain on the red wire. That way I'll only have to connect the one wire to my constant 12v instead of 5. Much easier! Thanks!


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You'll need to connect it for the remote start.


I didn't notice this post at first. I don't know why the diagram I posted only shows one accessory wire, but it does have 2. The blue/red wire posted in the first diagram is accessory 1 and accessory 2 is a blue/black wire. Only 1 ignition wire though.

So does this change how I'm hooking up the remote start? So far on the remote start harness I have all my fused power wires on the constant 12v wire. The solid pink wire is connected to my ignition 1 and the orange wire to my accessory 1. And then I didn't use the pink/white and pink/black wires like you said. Is how I have it correct or does something need to be connected to my accessory 2 wire also?


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Pink/White goes to accessory 2


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

I'll have to wait a few days before I can even test any of this after I get it wired anyway. I went to Ace to get a key made and they won't have any of my keys in stock until Friday.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> Pink/White goes to accessory 2


Cool. I actually depinned that wire so ill just pop it back in and wire it up. After that, I think all I have left to do is figure out the defogger switch. Just need to test it still.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

They can program chipped keys?


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don't remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won't have them cut it either, I really don't like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?


It's fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn't matter in yours. If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don't remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won't have them cut it either, I really don't like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.


I'd have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you've tested it.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

SSinstaller said:


> It's fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn't matter in yours. If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.


Cool. It is a older car so hopefully it won't be a problem.



SSinstaller said:


> I'd have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you've tested it.


True, I didn't think of that. I do have a dremel, I can always do that myself later. And depending on how I need to have the key positioned in the box I might need to cut it down some anyway. My oem key is a little too long anyway.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Ace still hasn't got my key in yet so I haven't tested the remote start but I should get one soon. I was thinking though while finishing up all my wiring, is there a way to bypass the clutch safety switch on the car with the r/s? The plug at the clutch is just unplugged for now so the car cranks without the clutch being pushed in. But I would prefer that it gets activated with the r/s so the clutch switch works normally still if thats possible. I think it needs to see 12v to work.

And I can't really figure out exactly how to place the ring from the 556u. On my car there is a plastic trim piece that goes around the factory transponder ring that holds everything to the ignition. There isn't any room to get it in front like they say is needed. So what am I supposed to do? The only way the 556u ring can sit in front of the factory ring is if I glued it to the outside of the piece that holds the factory ring to the ignition. You would see the whole 556u ring which I doubt is how its supposed to be installed. I attached a pic so you can see what I'm talking about exactly. Only the clear plastic part is in front of the factory ring and the manual was real specific about it being in front of the factory ring.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

The 556u ring can go around the outside of the OEM ring, it's not near as picky about location as the manual makes it seem.

To only bypass the clutch during rs you need a relay.

You will cut one of the wires running to the clutch switch(doesn't matter which) and connect the vehicle side of the cut wire to pin 30 and the other side of the same cut wire to pin 87a.
pin 85, constant 12v fused
pin 86 Negative ignition output of your RS

Wired this way the RS is just unplugging the switch when activated, so the polarity of the circuit in the car doesnt matter.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Okay, thanks. I think ill just leave the clutch switch unplugged though. Lol Seems like alot of work for something thats not that big of a deal.

And the way the lower steering wheel cover fits over the ignition I can't wrap it around the round recessed part of the black plastic either. I would have to wrap it around that whole piece. Would it still be okay with like half the ring being pretty far away from the ignition? Or should I just try and tap in to the factory ring? I noticed it only has 2 wires going to it and they are both the same color, so im not sure how that works. The manual says I cut one of the wires, does it matter which one?


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Not many cars use a normally closed circuit for the switch, I'd probably just leave it unplugged as well.

I would try it with the ring however you can place it before you cut into the factory immobilizer wiring. I used to tape it down around the outside of the key cylinders and never had any issues.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Finally got everything running. It was a nightmare trying to get a key made but I eventually got one. Everything works perfectly except I can't figure out how to turn on the manual transmission mode. I tried searching online but all I could find was info on how to deactivate it, not activating it.

I left my car in gear and let it crank just to see how far it would move with the ebrake on. It jumped a good 15-20 feet on the first start and I know it will try a couple more times after that. So I definitely need that turned on.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Also, is there a way to shorten the cranking time during the remote start? I noticed it turns the starter probably twice as long as it actually needs to start the car. I can hear the starter grinding a little bit on every start. Figure thats probably not very good for the starter in the long run.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

You can turn down the crank time in the feature menus. 

Full manual with programming info:


https://tinyurl.com/wuu83u



programming instructions start on page 15


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Thank you! Thats exactly what I needed. I was searching for over a hour just looking for how to switch to mts mode and everything I found was just talking about disabling it.

And thanks again for all your help dude. I was pretty confused about all the wiring at first but after finishing the install it all makes alot more sense. I should be able to do my other car no problem now. Hardest part for me actually was just planning on how to run all the wires and where to put the brain/556u. I did it in a way to where all wiring looks factory and the brain/556u is hidden though so I probably spent way more time on that than I needed. Lol


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

So I tried adjusting the crank time and it was already set to the lowest setting which was .6 seconds. I guess my car just starts really fast because thats still twice as long as I need. Is it possible to lower it even more or am I stuck with the .6 setting?

And I can't get my car to remote start at all with mts enabled. I tried following the directions and it just keeps saying remote start error. I know my brake and ebrake are hooked up correctly because they both will kill the car with the remote start running in auto mode. And I've tested the door triggers also and all those work correctly. So I'm not sure exactly what is preventing me from enabling mts mode when the mts mode is set.


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## SSinstaller (May 19, 2021)

Honduh said:


> So I tried adjusting the crank time and it was already set to the lowest setting which was .6 seconds. I guess my car just starts really fast because thats still twice as long as I need. Is it possible to lower it even more or am I stuck with the .6 setting?
> 
> And I can't get my car to remote start at all with mts enabled. I tried following the directions and it just keeps saying remote start error. I know my brake and ebrake are hooked up correctly because they both will kill the car with the remote start running in auto mode. And I've tested the door triggers also and all those work correctly. So I'm not sure exactly what is preventing me from enabling mts mode when the mts mode is set.


You can not set manual transmission mode unless you have connected the tach wire and followed the tach learn procedure.

The tach wire is violet /white in pin 12 of the aux connector, in your car it's a white(sometimes white/red) wire in a one pin connector in the underhood fuse box. Using the actual tach signal will also fix your extended crank issue.


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## Honduh (Feb 8, 2015)

Cool, that fixed both my problems. I had the tach wire hooked up already, I just didn't realize I had to program it. Now mts mode works and there is zero starter grind on start up. Thanks!


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