# Owners of Kenwood KDC-X997, how are you setting time alignment?



## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

On my old Pioneer 8600MP, I simply delayed my drivers side left speakers more than my passenger side right speakers. This seemed to work very good. Imaging was centered well. Lifted the soundstage . This method is not working as well on the Kenwood. I can get it dialed in but I'm having to enter a larger delay number for the RIGHT speaker than the left speaker even though the left speaker is closer. I have read how TA measurements are entered differently depending on head unit brand. Just wondering how other owners are setting yours up. Speakers are located in kick panels, mid range and tweeter mounted very close together, running passive, same setup as used with the Pioneer.

Example:

Pioneer Auto Time alignment settings
Front right-66 inches
Front left-57 inches

To get a similar sound from the Kenwood I use

Front right- 8.62 inches
Front left- 0 inches

I have read you set the farthest speaker to zero, but in this case, the closer speaker sounds better set to zero. I'm stumped!

I've tried different numbers, but system seems to always sound better with
larger delay numbers on the farther away right speaker. Any thoughts? 

BTW, I gotta say, I kinda miss the old days when all one had to do to get good sound was throw in a tape deck and a pair of 6x9s, and maybe an eq/booster. Thanks.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

I haven't had a chance to play with a 997 yet, but on my old 993 and 995, I followed the manual's instructions, and set the farthest speaker to 0, and so on and so forth. (also, not sure if you just had a typo, or what, but my kenwoods measured distance in feet, not inches.) I spent many hours playing with the TA on my 993, and it always sounded best when I followed Kenwood's instructions.

I don't think the new ones come with quite as detailed instructions, so here it is copied out of the 993 manual

"• DTA (Digital Time Alignment)Make fine adjustment of the delay time of thespeaker output specified at <Cabin selection>(page 29) to have a more suitable environment foryour vehicle.The settings of the delay time are automaticallyidentified and compensated by specifying thedistances of each speaker from the center of thevehicle interior.1 Set the front and rear positions and the heightof the reference point to the position of the earsof the person sitting in the front seat, and setthe right and left positions to the center of thevehicle interior.2 Measure the distances from the reference pointto the speakers.3 Calculate the distance difference in accordancewith the farthest speaker."

Also, here's a nifty illustrated guide from the manual:


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## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

I have an X993, and I also had trouble dialing in the TA. The instructions are definitely confusing. I just played around w/ it... what I did was put in extreme settings just to make it very clear what effect each setting had. Once I figured out what was going on, I dialed it in accordingly.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

Thanks for the replies, guys. I went out and tried this.Can definitely hear the difference with settings at the extremes. I tried zeroing both sides out. Entered a 1.62 delay on the left channel and kept the right channel at zero. Evened things up and shifted the image more toward the drivers seat. I can literally hear the image shift left to right while adjusting the settings. 

Trouble is, I get it dialed in, it seems like the left side will suddenly play quieter, thus messing up my imaging. I could dial it in, play a song, everything sound fine, hit repeat, play the exact same song, and it would sound different. Play it again, it might go back to sounding fine. Some times it even sounds fine with left/ right both set to zero.

As I have already tried several different amps, and physically switched the speakers I'm starting to think my new Kenwood is outputting uneven left/right preamp output voltage.:undecided: Ever heard of a head unit doing this?

Or else my left ear could be going wonky.


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

I've got the same unit. Just had it installed. I haven't tried to adjust that setting yet. I'm going to try it tonite. Did you get a chance to read what the manual said under "preparation"?
KDC-X997/KDC-BT955HD/KDC-X897/KDC-BT855U/KDC-X697/KDC-655U/KMR-555U
I just read it and am totally confused! This is my first system that I've put together so alot of these settings are foreign to me. I'm taking my truck back to the installer this week because they hooked up my left/right speakers backwards. While I'm there I'll ask if they know how these settings should work. Get back to you if n when they tell me.


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Just in case someone else understands what this means? lol
Like I said, I tried to figure this out n decided it wasn't registering so I'd better ask for help? 

If you specify the distance from the center of the currently set listening position to every speaker, the delay time will be automatically computed and set.
1. Determine the center of the currently set listening position as the reference point (• in the illustration shown below).
2. Measure the distances from the reference point to the speakers.
3. Calculate the differences between the distance of the furthest speaker and other speakers.
4. Input the differences calculated in step 3 for individual speakers.
5. Adjust gain for individual speakers. A sound image will be shifted to the speaker with increased gain.
Example: When "Front" is selected as the listening position (<5-6. Listening position setting>).


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

Basically what you do is measure from a reference point in your car (ie the listening position. I measured from the approximate location of my head) Measure the distance from the reference point to the speaker farthest from you (typically the subs). Whichever speaker is farthest from you needs to be set at 0 feet. Now, for every other speaker, measure the distance to the reference point. Now subtract that distance from your first measurement, and that's the distance you need to put in for that speaker. 

For example: your subs are 6ft away, front left is 2ft away, and front right is 3ft away. You would input this: subs 0ft, front left 4ft, front right 3ft. 

Hope that makes sense. The diagram I posted earlier gives a visual representation.


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## Earzbleed (Feb 10, 2013)

"I have read you set the farthest speaker to zero, but in this case, the closer speaker sounds better set to zero. I'm stumped!"

You would set the farthest speaker to 0 if you were setting delay but seeing as you're setting distance, the speaker closest to you would be at zero (inches/feet)- which is the max amount of delay. The longer the distance, the less delay will be needed.
As for the sub, mine sounds best if I set the distance at 3.6 feet for some reason. That's almost half what I have the far rear speaker set at.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

You are setting delay with these kenwood units. The input method is somewhat backwards, but the h/u calculates the delay based on the distances you input. The farthest speaker from you is definitely supposed to be your zero value.

Straight from the manual: "Calculate the distance difference in accordance with the farthest speaker"

Please look back at the picture I posted...it's right out of the kenwood manual.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

First you need to figure out what the inputed numbers mean: are they a delay or are they simply the distance to the speaker (allowing the head unit to compute the actual time delay). Anyways, I posted a few notes regarding TA with older X994 I think. Perhaps it works the same. It died over a year ago and now i use the pioneer deh-80PRS.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

One thing too once you get the center positon just right ....and your sub is the farthest speaker away...
Increase both left and right by adding the same amount to bring your sub forward in your sound stage. For my vehicle, I added 1.4 to each side after I was satisfied with the center position and the sub sounds more forward, has nice impact and more depth.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Any other owners of the 997?


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Thanks alot Kevin and A-minus. You explained things in a language even I could understand. I'm going to give it a try tonight. I'll be sure to post my results as soon as I'm done.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

I don't know why Kenwood made the instructions so complicated to understand...when I got my 993, it took over a year to finally understand it. Granted, I was a total newb at that point. Hope it makes a difference for you!


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

Yes, thanks for the replies everyone. Much more detailed than the manual I have. Still plugging in numbers. I can get a good sound dialed in by setting a small amount of delay on my left channel, and leaving my right at zero, but I'm still fighting that sudden slight volume drop on the left side components. About the only thing I haven't tried is running new speaker wire to the components. Could a speaker wire cause a small but noticeable drop in volume? Could this maybe be a speaker going bad? Speakers and wire are several years old. This slight and intermittent drivers side volume drop is really making it hard to dial in the TA. Thanks again guys for the explanations. They are much appreciated.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Could be wiring or crimps if used or even a speaker or crossover itself. Just have to take some time troubleshooting.

Could swap rca's at amp (left would now be right) and see if issue follows the change or stays the same side. That would be the easiest step.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

Switched RCAs at amp. Left side still at slight but noticeably lower volume. Swapped the two passive crossovers around as well. Swapped in another amp. Even swapped the two tweeters around. Am going to swap around the mids next. These are at least 12-14 years old. This is the third vehicle they've been installed in. Its funny, I never noticed this problem until I installed the Kenwood 997, but I would think if the head was the problem, swapping the RCAs would have also swapped the volume drop to the right, which it did not. I am really hoping its not the head unit, just got it buttoned up in the dash real nice. Will also need to check those crimp on connectors. Hadn't thought about those. Thanks for the suggestions.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

If the problem didn't follow the rcas, then you can rule out the head unit. It's going to be at the output of the amp or after. I had a similar problem a couple months back. Old set of Diamond comps I had laying in the stock room...ended up being a bad passive xover.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Unless I messed something, the only thing you hadn't swapped around is the mids and wiring.
One thing that could be an issue, out of phase mid....swap the wiring at amp on that side mid.
I speak that cause I've done it.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

FINALLY!!! After swapping out everything else (literally), I was down to the wiring or the left side mid. So I swapped the two mids. It seems the volume problem followed the mid over to the right side. I verified this with a meter playing both music and pink noise with the mic placed in several places. This particular mid plays two to three notches lower than the other mid no matter where it is placed. So I think I may finally, hopefully have found my problem. The mid has played well for the last 12-14 years. I guess its just getting old( like it's owner). Am going to test it more tomorrow, it got to hot this evening. If the problem shows back up on the left side, I may just lose it and start :rifle: the entire system.(except the new head unit, I really like the new head unit  )

I don't suppose it will do much good to try and time align the system until I get the front components changed, because I will have to do it again for the new speakers, right? I assume new speakers will be more matched in volume. And if I time align this set with its mismatched volume, I'll need to do it again with the new ones? Ah the joys of car audio.........

Funny, I had most of the features figured out on this unit the first evening, and could not figure out why I was having so much trouble with DTA, after having NO trouble with my old Pioneer's DTA. If this mid going bad is, in fact, my problem, it will explain a lot. 

Time to reread this thread and soak in all the good info you guys have given. Thanks again for your help. Hopefully those of us with a 997, will learn how to dial in the DTA to perfection. Any more thoughts you have, keep them coming. They are much appreciated.


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Ok guys. So I tried to dial in the DTA today. The only problem I had, which really wasn't a problem, is that my subwoofers are not the furthest speaker away from me. I'm driving a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab. So my two subs are in a box under the backseat. But the 4 by 6 that is in the back door is further away from me than the subs. So I used the right rear speaker as my starting point, which I set to zero. Now do you guys suggest that I use the driver seat as the reference point? I wasn't sure if I should or not. So according to the diagram they're using the center of vehicle between the driver and passenger. So that's what I used. I made the correct adjustments and I have to say, I think it sounded just a lil better before. I may have to try again. Maybe I made a mistake. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have a set of Focal PS165's installed. After months of researching and listening to everyone on the different forums this is the set I've decided on. I will definitely try to reset again after tomorrow. Thanks for all your suggestions n tutoring. It is much appreciated!


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

After several hours of critical listening, I am satisfied I have found my left/right volume mismatch to be a bad mid. Little sucker just does not play as loud as its twin. So new comps are planned to be installed. Great!!

Back to the time alignment procedure. I'm noticing a sound difference when changing to the different listening position in the DTA menu.

Position All: Sounds good, drivers side louder as to be expected. Needs some tweaking.
Position Front all: Haven't really tried much.
Position Left: the one I'm using, seems to be balanced well as is with little to no tweaking. Left side sounds a bit louder, but stage is more centered.
Position Right: Seems backwards to me as it makes the right side speaker a lot louder than the drivers side, stage is way to the right, not sure why this is this way.

Are these listening positions supposed to be like presets to be used as starting points? My old Pioneer I just chose the left drivers side position, added about 9 inches difference to the left side speaker thus delaying it. and everything sounded great. These settings are not working so good with the Kenwood.

MarkAM, I am in a similar situation as you. Extended cab truck with subs as my closest speaker. I am curious as to what settings you have tried and which settings seem to have worked for you. 

Thanks everyone for all the input thus far.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

Glock, those are supposed to be presets, but I had a similar experience with them. They really are not all that great. It sounds much better if you dial it in yourself.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

After reading your post, I looked at the owners manual again under Listening position setting. I have read through the manual a couple times, but this didn't sink in until now.

Saw this little chart. 
Display Compensation seat
"ALL" Not compensating.
"Front R" Front Right seat
"Front L" Front Left seat
"Front All" Front seat

So front R, front L, and front ALL are presets. So if I want to dial everything in manually, I should be using the ALL position, for no compensation, correct? This will allow me to dial in every single aspect myself.

This actually makes since. I don't believe I spent much time trying to dial her in using the ALL position, I am going to try this tomorrow. 

A-minus, thank you very, very much for pointing this out. I have now reread all the posts in this thread, and looked at the picture you posted more closely. This is becoming much more clear now. I'm feeling much more confident I'll be able to get her dialed in now. Thanks again for the responses.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

I'm not 100% sure. I had a KDC-X993, and a KDC-X995. Both used a very similar TA interface, but on the 993, I adjusted it from the ALL position. On the 995, you could pick from the presets, or it had an option that said Manually Set TA. I haven't played with a 997 yet, so I can't answer that for sure. I would say try it under ALL and see what happens.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

I am heading out to do the DTA now with the info I got here, will let you all know how it goes. I am running the Kenwood 997 as well.

By the way, where is the advanced manual? It didnt come in my box and I can only find the quick start manual online.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

bcyt13 said:


> I am heading out to do the DTA now with the info I got here, will let you all know how it goes. I am running the Kenwood 997 as well.
> 
> By the way, where is the advanced manual? It didnt come in my box and I can only find the quick start manual online.


I don't think the newer Kenwoods come with an advanced manual. I pulled that stuff out of a manual for an older radio.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Holy rusted metal Batman! Measured the distance to the sub, front right and front left to my forehead (looking like a goon I am sure at that point). Set the sub to zero and added the difference in measurements to each front component set. The audio is coming from right in front of me. My steering wheel now sings to me!

Loving this head unit so far  Thanks all for the help, the audio is so much more dynamic and seems to hit harder now too somehow.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

haha, amazing the difference isn't it.

Makes riding in a regular vehicle....boring


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Really hard to explain the difference especially when turning your head and bass sounds like it's in front. Mind boggling


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

> haha, amazing the difference isn't it.
> 
> Makes riding in a regular vehicle....boring


Yep, I spent about 45 minutes drinking and soaking in the music (of course in the garage, not driving). Was bliss!


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

bcyt13 said:


> Yep, I spent about 45 minutes drinking and soaking in the music (of course in the garage, not driving). Was bliss!


You know you've done something right when the time you have to spend in the car just isn't enough any more.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Hey Glock, as I mentioned in the last post, my system seems to have sounded just a little bit better when I didn't touch TA at all. It was already set to the default of ALL. After I tried to adjust it a little it seemed like it sounded a little bit better in the front components but I lost something in the subs. Now I did not try all the different presets. I only tried the front seat. Like in the diagram. They used the center of the front seat. I probably should have tried front left at least. I also did not try to adjust any of the other settings afterwards. I'm not familiar enough with them yet. I was hoping when I have the new components installed that they will assist me in that. Have you decided which components you're going to go with?


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Hey bcyt. The advanced menu is on the same website as the "Getting started" manual. This will take u directly to the advanced. KDC-X997/KDC-BT955HD/KDC-X897/KDC-BT855U/KDC-X697/KDC-655U/KMR-555U
U can just scroll down to any topic n open it to see the sub-categories. I just Added it to my home screen on my iPhone so anytime I have a question I can just open it right up. I wish that I would have gotten the same results that you did when I adjusted the TA in my truck. Which preset did you go with? It sounds like you went with the front left since you measured to your forehead.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Thanks Mark! I adjusted it from the ALL preset so that I knew I was starting from a plain setup and not a pre-adjusted one.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

To my ear...
Turning off the head unit's internal amp helps sound quality for the better out of preamp out's.

Under the Pro setup / sound enhancements/ turning off sound enhancer seems to make the overall sound more dynamic (seems to reduce bass if used) and makes the time alignment stand out more. 
sound realizer seems to help bring out detail 
and sound elevation helps sound stage height

I set my own xover points instead of using the units speaker size setting. Adjusting the freq level and slope helps get a good blend.

Now granted, each vehicle is different as is each person's ear, so it's worth using tools from the unit and see what fits best for you.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

How do uou turn off the internal amp on the 997

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

change source (src) and turn knob to standby press knob to select standby 

turn knob to select initial settings and press 

scroll to built in amp and press knob then change


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Thx!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Turned off the internal amp today and the sound seems even better now. I'm loving this head unit!


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Good deal. I'm pleased with mine.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Having an issue with the internal amp setting. If i turn the internal amp off, it sounds great/etc. However, when I turn off the receiver or the car, the next time is comes back on there is no sound coming from the head unit, even though its playing. If I turn the internal amp back on, everything plays normally. I was able to repeat this several times. Turn off internal amp, plays fine once. Power cycle and no sound. Turn internal amp back on, works great.


Another guy found the same problem in this thread: 

Kenwood x997 internal amp problem


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Yep, had the same thing happen to me.

There is a firmware update from Kenwood that resolves that problem. Quick to do and takes care of the issue.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Looks like it might be a firmware issue, going to update and go from there.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Does the firmware update wipe the tuning settings?


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Here's the link
Firmware updater | Kenwood


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Yes, I believe, to be safe, be sure to make some notes.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Thx

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

The head unit is reading "N/A Device" when I plug in my USB drive. Not sure why it does not recognize it. It is a PNY Attache 4GB USB.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Changing the USB file system to FAT32 vs NTFS to see if that fixes it.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Yep, that fixed it. The Kenwood deck only reads a FAT32 file system. Updated the firmware for both devices and no more issues. Thanks again for the help!


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

MarkAM, After all the glowing reviews about the JBL MS series, I ordered a set of JBL MS-52C from Crutchfield, for my kicks. I've ran Kicker titanium domes for years as well as the Pioneer mids, so looking forward to listening to a new set of comps. Plan to install them this coming Monday. Like you, after I reset the TA, mine sounded really good in the ALL position, with nothing adjusted. However, being the constant tinkerer that I am, I had to try yet again. So I tried the ALL position, and gave the left side mid a bit of delay. Sounds really good. Then I tried the FRONT LEFT position again. Delayed the left mid by about 6.50 inches, I believe, turned OFF all sound enhancements, except for the Sound Elevation, which I set to low, and Sound Realizer, which I set to level 1. This seems to raise the sound stage, and give the music an almost 3D effect. Bass levels are also very good here. To me it sounds very nice, and I can hear more detail in the music. Some CDs do sound a tiny bit "processed", but I didn't want to mess with it until I had more time. First time I have really smiled since installing this unit. I used the remote to quickly change from ALL to FRONT LEFT position. Can really tell a difference between the two. Liked it enough, I stored it in the DTA memory recall slot one. This way I can further tweek (screw up  )the sound and go back to these settings if I don't find settings I like better.

Knowing my luck, I'll probably get these comps dialed in great, and then have to start over when I install the JBLs.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

bcyt13, glad you got it updated. This really is a very nice head unit. I have found the bluetooth pairing to be crazy easy on this unit. Pandora, Iheart and Aha all work flawlessly for me. Now if only their sound quality were better. Still sounds as good or better as my XM did and much cheaper too. Don't use it much though, as I prefer the SQ of CDs.


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Agreed, the SQ is excellent for CDs once you get the DTA dialed in and the crossovers set right. I even took the time to rip the CDs in full Wave format for maximum quality and you can really hear the difference vs MP3s.

For the HPF on the Audison Voce AV K6 components, I am using 80hz with a 24db slope. For the LPF on the IDQ12v3 4 ohm sub, I am using 70hz with a 24db slope. This prevents any phase issues that you get with 12db or 18db slopes and they blend nicely. The IDQ12v3 is much happier with the LPF being lower near 70 than when it was around 90ish.

Now I just need some more Dynamat


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Thanks guys for the info. I wasn't sure what all of the settings were for so I thought best not to fool with them until I do. I have the same issue as BCYT. I tried turning off the internal amp, But then the next morning when I got into my truck there was no sound. The unit came on but with zero sound. You think that might be due to it being hooked up wrong?


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## bcyt13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Nope just needs a firmware update

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Thanks BCYT. I see that now. I should have read all of the different Posts prior to posting my own. I'm guessing you just take a USB thumbdrive and download the upgrade from my computer and then upload it on to the HU? I'm glad to hear you got yours dialed in. Makes me a little envious. Ha ha I'm definitely going to try that when I get home. And thanks a lot for the info Glock. I'll be waiting to see what you think?


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## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

bcyt13 said:


> the audio is so much more dynamic and seems to hit harder now too somehow.


Bass from all speakers is now in phase at the listening position, so cancellation is eliminated or at least greatly reduced. There's probably some kind of psychoacoustic effect as well, where the harmonics of the fundamental bass note are cleaner, more in-tune w/ the rest of the freqs, etc.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

Just got the JBL MS-52C components bolted in today. I started with changing only the components, nothing else. My verdict? On first listen, Soundarific!! These babies are as clear as mountain air on a cool crisp spring morning! When people rave about the tweeters, they are hitting it right on the money. I like the metal dome sound(ran Kicker titanium domes for years) so I was expecting to like them. Upon hearing them it was love at first tweet. They really do have a shimmering sparkle not unlike a gently flowing mountain stream (on the afore mentioned cool crisp spring morning  ) These babies are all that and a cool drink of water. Mids are also great. I did notice they were not as loud as the old mids, but that was because the old set was running 2 ohm stereo off a 50x2 channel amp, and running these little gems in 4 ohm just wasn't getting enough juice out of the amp, only about 25x2. I swapped in an 85x2 amp, and these guys came alive, once I got my gains set. Very pleased with this set running the passive crossovers.

I am also pleased to say, the DTA settings I had dialed in with the old set translated right over to this new set. While still not completely utterly happy with my settings(can we ever be truly satisfied with our sound, without the need to tweek?  ) I do feel I am finally getting a firm grasp on setting up the DTA.


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Hey Glock, I'm glad to hear that you enjoy the JBL's. Why didn't you go with the MS 62's? Anyhow I ended up going with the Focal PS 165's. Had them installed this weekend. Love them. Unbelievable how clear they are. Especially in a truck door. I was able to dial in my DTA settings. I decided to go with the lft front setting as my reference point. Like I had said earlier, the furthest speaker from that point is my right rear door speaker. So I set that at zero and went from there. Because the components are in the front door I ended up setting the elevation at middle. Turned on the realization setting to 1. And turned everything else off. It is now time to change out my subs. I thought they sounded good before. But now I realize that they don't sound as good as I thought when they're trying to keep up with an upgraded system. Does anybody have any thoughts on what might be compatible with my system? Again I'm running the X997 HU, the Focal PS-165's, the subs will be running off a Phoenix Gold Octane R 300 watt amp. I'm running the components with a Phoenix Gold R 75 watt amp, and the 4by6's in the rear doors with the HU's amp. I'm going to replace the 2 subs and the box that are under the back seat.


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## Glock Ness Monster (Jun 17, 2013)

MarkAM, glad to hear your getting the DTA dialed in. I'm getting better results using the left front as my starting point as well. This is a really nice sounding head once it gets dialed in. The reason I went with 52's over the 62's is because my kicks are designed for 5.25's inchers and I have 6.5 CDTs in the doors to handle midbass duties.That and the fact I'm a glutton for punishment. As if learning a new head and getting my amps gains all set up wasn't enough, I thought I'd throw in a 3 way front stage to have to tune as well,:laugh: Your using a downfiring sub setup, right? Those Focal PS 165 are some awesome looking comps. Those have separate crossovers for each speaker, correct? Are you running those, or are you running active?


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## naresh (Dec 8, 2013)

this post needs to come back alive. i'm running the kdc 997 also.


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## MarkAM (Jun 8, 2013)

Hey there. Nice. Are you having problems with it?


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## naresh (Dec 8, 2013)

I got it installed 2 months ago and I'll be installing the jbl ms 5001 & 1004 amp within the next 2 weeks. I still have to buy a set of components for the front. I'll try to go active. 
Thanks to everyone on this thread for providing such great info. I'll need help with the settings once I'm done installing everything.


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## naresh (Dec 8, 2013)

Is the eq on the 997 accessible if you are not using the units dsp?


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## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

naresh said:


> Is the eq on the 997 accessible if you are not using the units dsp?


Yes.


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## NHgranite (Sep 24, 2011)

Do you guys know if my settings will be saved if I do a firmware update?


Thanks.


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