# Ford Factory units w/ sync



## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

I have seen some mod jobs on the Alpine units where you add a Toslink to the DOUT. 

Anyone think this would be possible on a factory headunit, specifically the sync found in 2010 fords.

I am confused how to sync and the headunit operate together and was hoping to get some clarification.

I think it would be pretty sexy to be able to get a factory system modded with TOSLINK


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## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

I found a chip that looks like I can tap into on the sync unit.

Mini-teardown reveals Ford Sync's economical design

CS42448 : 108 dB, 192 kHz 6-in, 8-out Multi-Channel Codec

It is the Audio codec chip on the sync.

Now if I tap into the DOUT on the sync I don't think I will have any HU functionality as far as the TOS link.

Few solutions.

1) Tap into the DOUT on the factory CD player and some how splice it together before it hits the Toslink. May have some issues if for some reason both are playing at the same time. Will take some investigation.

2)I could either take the speaker level output, add some LOCs, and a DAC. I would also add another Toslink at the cd DOUT on the factory unit. I would then have to build some sort of mixer/controller to mix/switch the 3 digital signals into one and output via Toslink to my future 3sixty.3. I would have to give last priority to my speaker level outs.

I think I may also be able to control the volume via the factory knob somehow. I will have to get in there with a multimeter and see how they have that set up.

I should be able to get audiophile output for far less than buying a head unit, and it will look factory


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## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

here is the product sheet for that chip, looked at the FCC filings and it seem as if they have the same chip in version 3 (which I have) of the sync unit.

http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/proDatasheet/CS42448_F3.pdf

The FCC ID for the v3 module is WDGSYNC1


The chip has 3 DOUT pins that can be attached to the Toslink. From looking at the flow charts it looks like the volume may be sent through the CAN bus to the DAC. I really don't know, it may be controlled at the HU.

I think adding just one Toslink to the sync module with be very easy. Anything that isn't through the sync can be done through the speaker level inputs to the sound processor. I really never listen to cds anyways. everything is usually streamed 192 Kbps off of pandora via BT or if I want quality I can always hook up a external HD to the sync system and play WAV.

Here is the image from the FCC filing marked up to where I think the DOUTS are based on the data sheet for the chip











If you can see there are 3 DOUTs starting the fourth from the right on the bottom of the chip...will not be an easy solder job, and it does not look they lead anywhere


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## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

Also found this, Calrad 35-442 Toslink splitter * from American-Digital the CAN should only allow one device to play at a time so with one of these I could also get the CD player to work, 2 and I could get XM on there too. I would just use LOCs on the speaker level outs if I want to listen to FM radio, which obviously would not benefit from a digital connection.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

If this is the "DAC" for the head unit then all the sources should go through it no? That is not the case with the Alpine mod since the transport, which is independent from the other sources, is the one that has the Dout.

So the only thing you would need to worry about is master volume control somewhere after the S/PDIF output.


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## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

t3sn4f2 said:


> If this is the "DAC" for the head unit then all the sources should go through it no? That is not the case with the Alpine mod since the transport, which is independent from the other sources, is the one that has the Dout.
> 
> So the only thing you would need to worry about is master volume control somewhere after the S/PDIF output.


That is the sync module. I can not find the FCC filing for the Ford HU...and my truck is getting some work done in the shop. Either way it looks the sync unit outputs in analog so even if I did tap into the HU and it did have a digital mixer I could tap into I would have to worry about the whole digital to analog back to digital. If the source is digital I want it to stay digital until it hits the amp

I am pretty sure that I will have the volume issue. I am also pretty sure I could "read" whether the knob is turning by taping into the CAN bus and use that info somehow to control the sound processor. I might have to build and program some sort of micro controller, which should be fun.

I am not to worried about it right now as I can always bypass the factory volume knob all together and just use a remote from the sound proc.


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## dh8009 (Jul 19, 2010)

Which vehicle do you have? I'm in the process of trying to decide if I want to get the factory 8" Nav on the new F-150's or not. I love the way it works with the vehicle, like voice control for climate and all, but I don't like things like no video from iPod even though it plays DVD's. If I could have an optical out to run to something like a BitOne, video from my iPod touch, and video out to a second screen for the kid it would be a no brainer.


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## colek42 (Jan 24, 2011)

I have the non-nav. I found a wiring diagram, take a look

http://www.intyss.com/downloads/2010F150AUDIO.pdf

The DOUT hack I explain here is based upon the alpine hack seen elsewhere on this site. I wouldn't know where to start with video, but that document may help you out - or not.

Oh and so you know the for the remote use fuse location #41 on the pass side fuse panel.


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## dh8009 (Jul 19, 2010)

Okay thanks. I'll take a look


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