# Power Wire Size



## 07BronzeFuz (Apr 11, 2009)

Guys, I just picked up a ed nine.2x and a nine.4. I taked to the factory and they said a single run of 4 gauge will be ok. Then I can go 8 gauge to each amp. I already have 16 feet of soundquest 4 ga power and ground. I was searching on the net and found a 2 ga install kit on millionbuy.com its a power ack. one for like 35 bucks. Would it be better to get that kit than to run my 4 ga and split it off to 8 gauge.


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## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

WIRE

and http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant.swf


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## 07BronzeFuz (Apr 11, 2009)

good deal thanks!


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## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

Basic Car Audio Electronics - you should read that entire site ! all threads like this can be answered with a link to that site (so maybe the thread wouldn't have been started if you knew about that site!)

Enjoy!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I agree with BCAE1 being your basic first step in this hobby, but also keep in mind the brand of wire and the cost. Some cheap brands are really smaller gauge wire with a big plastic sheath taking up the space. 

I've had good luck with the highly discounter Kicker kits from Amazon, the Kollosus Fleks stuff from Knukonceptz, and lately really good luck with Phoenix Gold kits on sale on eBay CHEAP. IMO, wire is wire, until you have a cheating brand.


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## 07BronzeFuz (Apr 11, 2009)

what about this one? **TRUE* 1/0 GAUGE 3000W AMPLIFIER AMP INSTALL KIT PRK1 - eBay (item 220393249945 end time May-09-09 13:32:57 PDT)
or this
METRA AK01 3600W 0 GAUGE AMPLIFIER AMP KIT BEST QUALITY - eBay (item 350184825902 end time Apr-28-09 20:59:27 PDT)

or POWER ACOUSTIK KIT-2G 2 GAUGE AMPLIFIER WIRING AMP KIT - eBay (item 120400152417 end time Apr-30-09 14:34:03 PDT)


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## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

all 3 of those might be garbage. The metra kit might be the best of them.

You have some 4 awg already right?

Think of all the peices you actually need and maybe buy those instead of a kit.

Like 18 feet of 0 awg, a ground distro and a fused power distro, then a couple of crimp ring terminals.

Darvex.com has good deals on stinger stuff.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

This is what I picked up on the cheap, and I highly recommend it now that I've had a chance to really use it.

NEW PHOENIX GOLD 0 Gauge AKIT1 Amp Install Kit 1 2000 w - eBay (item 110357492725 end time Apr-28-09 14:55:24 PDT)

The included accessories make this a killer deal.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

quote>
A tutorial is one method of transferring knowledge and may be used as a part of learning. More interactive and specific than a book or a lecture; a tutorial seeks to teach by example and supply the information to complete a certain task.

Depending on the context a tutorial can take one of many forms, ranging from a set of instructions to complete a task to an interactive problem solving session (usually in academia).
quote>

Asking a question about wire size....ain't no ****ing Tutorial 

Just think how hard it'll get when it comes to the right colors


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

falkenbd said:


> WIRE
> 
> and http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant.swf


Also, pay close attention to what he "rants" about on OFC. Most people assume copper wire is copper wire. BUT, if steps in the manufacturing are not taken to keep the wire oxy free you will get oxidiation in places you don't want it.

Also as a side note, most amps will use UP TO a certain size wire, if you go thorugh all that read and are still not sure just go with the larges AWG it will accomadate and the appropriate sized fuse it calls for as this will eliminate any kind of overheating issues as the article goes over.

One last side note (I know I've given a few). Cosider the fact that your in a high vibration envirnoment and realize that just because you CAN get a smaller AWG conductor doesn't mean you should. In a situation with lots of vibration that can cause things that normally wouldn't tear apart to tear apart. That is to say the wire's internally could start to break at different bends if you go to thin.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

falkenbd said:


> Basic Car Audio Electronics - you should read that entire site ! all threads like this can be answered with a link to that site (so maybe the thread wouldn't have been started if you knew about that site!)
> 
> Enjoy!



The problem with that calculator is it's assuming CONTINUOUS draw. It's telling me I need a 2 gauge min lead to feed 3 Arc Minis with a 175A fuse. Riiiiiiiiight.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Fussion289 said:


> Also, pay close attention to what he "rants" about on OFC. Most people assume copper wire is copper wire. BUT, if steps in the manufacturing are not taken to keep the wire oxy free you will get oxidiation in places you don't want it.
> 
> Also as a side note, most amps will use UP TO a certain size wire, if you go thorugh all that read and are still not sure just go with the larges AWG it will accomadate and the appropriate sized fuse it calls for as this will eliminate any kind of overheating issues as the article goes over.
> 
> One last side note (I know I've given a few). Cosider the fact that your in a high vibration envirnoment and realize that just because you CAN get a smaller AWG conductor doesn't mean you should. In a situation with lots of vibration that can cause things that normally wouldn't tear apart to tear apart. That is to say the wire's internally could start to break at different bends if you go to thin.


The only wires I could see you ever having a problem with would be speaker wires in the door jamb or the connections right a the amp and then only if the nothing was bolted down and the wires was run on top of the carpet. 

Look at OEM wiring for example. It's WAY small, is just laying in place making all knds of funky bends and that stuff usually outlasts the car.


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

quality_sound said:


> The only wires I could see you ever having a problem with would be speaker wires in the door jamb or the connections right a the amp and then only if the nothing was bolted down and the wires was run on top of the carpet.
> 
> Look at OEM wiring for example. It's WAY small, is just laying in place making all knds of funky bends and that stuff usually outlasts the car.


This true, however, it is also in a protective sheeth which helps with that not to mention the amount of power being carried thorugh factory speaker wire is very minimal.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Not to drag this too far off topic but most cars will have some fabric tape at best to keep the wires from being a mess but rarely is everything completely wrapped up and protected. 

And your point had nothing to do with how much power was being carried. You said that the vibration would cause the wire to break internally. Untrue.


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

quality_sound said:


> Not to drag this too far off topic but most cars will have some fabric tape at best to keep the wires from being a mess but rarely is everything completely wrapped up and protected.
> 
> And your point had nothing to do with how much power was being carried. You said that the vibration would cause the wire to break internally. Untrue.


What I was trying to say does relate to power. A power wire's diameter relates to it's ability to carry power which is a function of P=A*V or P = I ^2 * R and realistically the wire's resistance could be calculated by it's most narrow point. It is very likely that it could internally break even a small amount will change the resistance value of a wire. The thicker the wire the lower the likely hood of a wire breaking simply because of how massive the wire is. On the other hand the smaller it is the more likely it is to have these internal breaks from bends or the vibrations esp. if there is one in the engine compartment. If you choose not to believe that it "could" happen well I apologize but it can happen.

And also some people prefer to figure out which power wire over what distance would be the cheapest which is not necessarily a bad thing, however, anyone on the design side of any field will tell you they always beef up the design by some percentage, mechanical side is usually 10% depending on the company, as to avoid small problems. Not to mention as the ramble he put about OFC states that as the wire degrades, and it will no matter the location simply because plastic is porous and will breath I don't care if it's under carpet or not, so does the amount of power it will and can handle as it degrades. So by going with this if you plan on having the wire for a long period of time It would be prudent to buy whatever the amp can handle max diameter as this will ensure it functions for as long as you have the amp in(hopefully longer).


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Fussion289 said:


> What I was trying to say does relate to power. A power wire's diameter relates to it's ability to carry power which is a function of P=A*V or P = I ^2 * R and realistically the wire's resistance could be calculated by it's most narrow point.


I'm gonna stop you right there. We're not dealing with hollow pipe here. When you bend a solid wire it's not going to bend inward on the inner radius like a crimp bent exhaust will. The diameter of the wire will remail constant through out the bend. 



> It is very likely that it could internally break even a small amount will change the resistance value of a wire. The thicker the wire the lower the likely hood of a wire breaking simply because of how massive the wire is. On the other hand the smaller it is the more likely it is to have these internal breaks from bends or the vibrations esp. if there is one in the engine compartment. If you choose not to believe that it "could" happen well I apologize but it can happen.


If you think this is a possibility I hope you've upgraded every wire on your car because this is simply ludicrous. With constand flexion and tension on a wire it will eventually break, yes. How much do you think an average wire in a car moves? 



> And also some people prefer to figure out which power wire over what distance would be the cheapest which is not necessarily a bad thing, however, anyone on the design side of any field will tell you they always beef up the design by some percentage, mechanical side is usually 10% depending on the company, as to avoid small problems. Not to mention as the ramble he put about OFC states that as the wire degrades, and it will no matter the location simply because plastic is porous and will breath I don't care if it's under carpet or not, so does the amount of power it will and can handle as it degrades. So by going with this if you plan on having the wire for a long period of time It would be prudent to buy whatever the amp can handle max diameter as this will ensure it functions for as long as you have the amp in(hopefully longer).


Going above and beyond is fine, but you're still thinking like we're running power in a house. Your amps are NOT a constant draw. Ok, they are, but not a constant _heavy_ draw. In fact, most people with large amps never even come close to ever pulling anything near the max that the amp can put out. On the very rare occassion they do it's for short bursts. This makes it perfectly safe to use a smaller wire with NO issues.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Wow, this got into a serious sidetrack.

Bottom line:

If you are pushing around 1000W or so, you can use 4 gauge.

More than that, might want to consider 1/0 gauge.


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

My apologiezes, just trying to get all the reasons and such you really need to look for in a good quality power wire and it's size.


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## EVcelica (Dec 30, 2008)

falkenbd said:


> WIRE
> 
> and http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant.swf


That calculator is a little funny. It tells me to run 4 gauge to my distribution block, but then a 6 gauge and A TWO GAUGE to the amps. that seems a little wierd to me!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Probably because each amp is different. One is 6 gauge (so 4 gauge would be about right), and one is 2 gauge (so either 2 or perhaps 1/0 gauge instead.)

Of course, that seems a little weird that the distro would be smaller!

Spec out your numbers, let me re-run them.


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

One thing to keep in mind is that squeezing a too-big power cable through tight grommets and jamming it under panels is going to do WAY more damage than vibration. 

Also, just sitting there vibrating is not going to break strands in your cable. Ever.
Vibrating under tension because you didn't secure the amp and it's swinging around on the end of the cable sure will, but if it is sitting there held down by gravity and some zip-ties and not being stressed it's going to be fine.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

EVcelica said:


> That calculator is a little funny. It tells me to run 4 gauge to my distribution block, but then a 6 gauge and A TWO GAUGE to the amps. that seems a little wierd to me!


You either misunderstood or did something wrong 

what size and class amps , how many feet , etc..,

You also need to bear in mind how you will use the amp , I.E. will it be undersized and then driven severly into clipping....
Amplifiers have been known to make twice their rated power when operated by fools.

In this instance the wire would need to be sized accordingly , plus your wallet has to be fatter as you replace the tweeters and or components or subwoofers *as they do weird or strange stuff , I.E. they die* !!


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## EVcelica (Dec 30, 2008)

a$$hole said:


> You either misunderstood or did something wrong
> 
> what size and class amps , how many feet , etc..,


maybe, check it out:
main wire = 6 feet
amp 1: 400 watts (A/B) 50% efficiency
amp 2: 1200 watts (A/B) 50% efficiency
amp 3&4 are off
13.8 voltage

also minimum and maximum fuse ratings are switched!?!


I'm pretty sure there is a mistake in the system. tell me what you get.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

It is because of the extra small amount of power wire length. At 16 feet, the main wire should be 1/0, and the min fuse is 225, max is 250. 



EVcelica said:


> maybe, check it out: main wire = 6 feet
> amp 1: 400 watts (A/B) 50% efficiency
> amp 2: 1200 watts (A/B) 50% efficiency
> amp 3&4 are off
> ...


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