# Calling all Zapco DC users



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Few questions.

does anyone here have issues with the any of the LED's not working? and who here has gotten the mod done that prevents the "airplane noise"?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

i have 2 with the "howl mod".

i don't know if i have issues with the leds. i never look at them lol!

reminding myself to take one of the howl modded ones apart to get some pics...did not get time yet today and may be able to get to it this evening late.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

benny z said:


> i have 2 with the "howl mod".
> 
> i don't know if i have issues with the leds. i never look at them lol!
> 
> reminding myself to take one of the howl modded ones apart to get some pics...did not get time yet today and may be able to get to it this evening late.


yeah, since we all know zapco support is slim to none most of the times, and getting the mod done cost like 90 dollars per amp id like to figure out how to just do it myself


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Doing it yourself would
Be great option. I didn't wanna pay 300 bucks plus shipping for mod. Now Skiezer has small arms pile of them. I guess he's not wanting to pay 1300 bucks for the mods. Ohh and shipping on them to.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

optimaprime said:


> Doing it yourself would
> Be great option. I didn't wanna pay 300 bucks plus shipping for mod. Now Skiezer has small arms pile of them. I guess he's not wanting to pay 1300 bucks for the mods. Ohh and shipping on them to.


11 amps, so thats 1k plus shipping just to fix a factory defect. HA. id like to see if some users and i can figure out a way to just DIY, which is what this site is based off of


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Boom


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

No **** where did you get the chip with the pot on it ?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

optimaprime said:


> No **** where did you get the chip with the pot on it ?


That's the mod. Trying to "reverse engineer" it now

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

I just bought one yesterday. I think its one of the first DC models. Im going to crack it to replace a fan and check for this.

The components look pretty easy. and the board could easily be done with a universal, or custom etched pcb. If there enough interest, you could build up a quick prototype, then get tons of PCBs printed online for cheap.

Is that your work, or Zapco's?


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> That's the mod. Trying to "reverse engineer" it now
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


What are you using ? Making your own board or buying one and installing it


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

it's my understanding that this is "mike's" work - former tech at zapco.

wish i knew how to get ahold of him. i have two dc350.2s with this mod, but i have four more dc amps i'd like to have modded.

i say yes - let's reverse engineer it and make a production run of about 100 units. i'm sure there could be enough sales to support that volume here on diyma alone.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Goldcar said:


> I just bought one yesterday. I think its one of the first DC models. Im going to crack it to replace a fan and check for this.


please let us know which fan you end up using. i'd like to replace some of mine also.

thanks!


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, just lots of dust, no mod  I did however just send an email to Zapco about it, interested to hear what they say back... I am in for this mod. Even if someone could get a kit together. Print a bunch of PCB's, get a bag of each component and send whatever needed in a little bag, solder yourself. The components and board are probably under 4$ per unit. 

The single fan is a 40x40x10, no idea on speed but its 0.09A, 7 blade design. 2 pin connector. My replacment will most likley be a Scythe mini Kaze its fits perfect, 2 wire, very quiet, and i have really liked all my past scythe fans.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> yeah, since we all know zapco support is slim to none most of the times, and getting the mod done cost like 90 dollars per amp id like to figure out how to just do it myself


the mod costs money? I thought they took care of it no charge.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

optimaprime said:


> What are you using ? Making your own board or buying one and installing it


i want to be able to make my own. no way im paying 90 per amp plus shipping to have this done to mine as preventative maintenance


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

benny z said:


> please let us know which fan you end up using. i'd like to replace some of mine also.
> 
> thanks!


oh benny, i found a really good fan to replace them with. same dimentions and everything. a bit pricey at 16 a piece, but theyre going to be the best option for this application. theyre 40mm correct?

Noctua A-Series NF-A4x10 Case Fan - Newegg.com


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

if zapco actually replies to you about this, i would be very surprised. please let me know what they say if you get a response. my attempts to contact them have gone unanswered for months.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Goldcar said:


> The single fan is a 40x40x10, no idea on speed but its 0.09A, 7 blade design. 2 pin connector. My replacment will most likley be a Scythe mini Kaze its fits perfect, 2 wire, very quiet, and i have really liked all my past scythe fans.





SkizeR said:


> oh benny, i found a really good fan to replace them with. same dimentions and everything. a bit pricey at 16 a piece, but theyre going to be the best option for this application. theyre 40mm correct?
> 
> Noctua A-Series NF-A4x10 Case Fan - Newegg.com


thanks and thanks


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

have you guys tried reaching out to Matt Roberts? I'm guessing he would know the parts needed for the add-on board. Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum - View Profile: Matt R


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

shutmdown said:


> have you guys tried reaching out to Matt Roberts? I'm guessing he would know the parts needed for the add-on board. Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum - View Profile: Matt R


nope. he hasnt been active on here in a while


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> nope. he hasnt been active on here in a while


I have tried to email him to no response. I be down for making some boards. Is that pic of the mod board zapcos mod or did some else make that ?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

optimaprime said:


> I have tried to email him to no response. I be down for making some boards. Is that pic of the mod board zapcos mod or did some else make that ?


that was done by the guy they refer you to. after seeing it, im not really sure im comfortable having that person work on my amps. looks very sloppy


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Yeah, even look at the wiring. Like damn Zapco...

In the guys defense, have you opened an amp yet? the pictures make it look spacious, its actually a very small area and board. The Symbilink its soldered onto is 12x14mm, so kinda small.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Goldcar said:


> Yeah, even look at the wiring. Like damn Zapco...
> 
> In the guys defense, have you opened an amp yet? the pictures make it look spacious, its actually a very small area and board. The Symbilink its soldered onto is 12x14mm, so kinda small.


maybe once or twice. this is right next to where im typing lol


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> that was done by the guy they refer you to. after seeing it, im not really sure im comfortable having that person work on my amps. looks very sloppy


It does look poopie but is just blown up so big it looks bad?


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Why can't they just sale us the damn board with diagram to install it. This stupid on their part. Wonder if John would give that up us


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I agree. I took those pictures with a macro lens on a tripod boom arm. I did not even realize there were numbers on those parts until I was looking through the lens. We are talking tiny tiny parts here.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)




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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

true. theres space to put it elsewhere though if you want to make it with bigger pieces


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Where does the black wire go? and that black sm above the 1002 resistor,is it soldered on each corner facing the 1002? kind of hard to make out.

The right leg of that pot isnt connected to anything else on its top pad that i can see, theres nothing underneath is there making a connection to it?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Here are some I took last night. They aren't as good IMO with the lamp lighting. Today's daylight pics were clearer. But these do show the black wire.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Also, I took apart the other modded one and it looks the same. Maybe a tad cleaner. But otherwise the same. 










I didn't bother getting out the camera again.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

i think it goes to the 10th pin counting from the right side in on the back of the front board


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> i think it goes to the 10th pin counting from the right side in on the back of the front board


i counted a few times using many different reference points and i also get 10.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

All right we getting some where now.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

let me call John, I have his number. I'll get back to you guys.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

shutmdown said:


> let me call John, I have his number. I'll get back to you guys.


theyre at ces right now i think. i emailed him and no answer about this. i just wanted to create a thread where users of these amps can come and post issues and maybe get support from other users since zapco is practically useless on their end.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> theyre at ces right now i think. i emailed him and no answer about this. i just wanted to create a thread where users of these amps can come and post issues and maybe get support from other users since zapco is practically useless on their end.


totally forgot about CES. Well once I hear back from him I'll update you guys


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

benny z said:


>


I dig happy Gilmore in back ground! With chubs


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Happy gilmore? Lol

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> Happy gilmore? Lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Ooooppppsss it's happy Madison production


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

At the risk of being a dummy here ... what does this mod actually accomplish? I've got a 500.1 with a noisy fan I want to fix, and my current ride has two 350.2, a 200.2, and an 1100.1 DC series amps. Love the DSP on these things and output, just hate their um "liberal" use of space  Makes it hard to find room to install them, but I'm hoping to start a build log for my new car sooner or later. Following.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Once in a blue moon the amps will spill out a terrible full range/output to anything connected to them. Has something to do with the timing of the dsp/signal at startup. I've had it happen a few times, probably less than 5, in my 8 or 9 years using these amps. It took out a tweeter once. You have to kill power to them to stop the noise. Imagine it happening in a car with kids or a baby. It's like an air raid siren going off right in your ears.


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Well that just re-inforced my intention to have a remote-turn-on-cut-off-switch wired... though I've not (yet) encountered that issue, what I have had happen a few times now is that the symbilink cable comes a little loose and the subwoofer oscilates like a massive turn on pop non stop until shutting the amp off and fixing... it's been rare and I figured when I finally get around to completing my install I'd add a spot of hot glue or something on the connectors in addition to securing them better.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Your subwoofer amp might have Same problem. It would be air siren on sub .


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

post-ces-bump


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

benny z said:


> post-ces-bump


new-processor-out-bump


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> new-processor-out-bump


won't-be-buyin-anything-new-zapco-bump


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

benny z said:


> won't-be-buyin-anything-new-zapco-bump


i-told-myself-the-same-but-this-revived-my-hope-a-little-bit-bump


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

I started looking into the mod a few days ago pretty good. Began looking to see if i could match the components. The numbers/letters on them lead to many different matches...

10K pot, S9015 (M6) SOT23 pnp transistor, U6 diode?, (1002) 10k resistor, (1272) 12.7k resistor. I have just searched a little.
Anyone confirm?

I beleive U6 is a 3.3V Zener diode. So through hole is avaliable for all this, if its all the right stuff.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Again why can't Zapco just give us the damn board


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

optimaprime said:


> Again why can't Zapco just give us the damn board



I don't think they have any. That is my suspicion; don't know for sure. But I suspect the tech who was installing them, who no longer works there, was making the boards and installing them.


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Do you think you can measure the resistance from the middle leg (wiper), to the right most pin (the one on its own pad not connected to anything) on the variable resistor? Even from outer pin to outer pin would help too, or either outside to middle pin really. I just need to know which one you use. 

If the amp is still open and available for measurement of course. I believe i have every component right, just gotta find a through hole equivalent.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

It's not open still, but I can open it back up. You're going to have to explain in dummy language what you want me to do tho heh. This stuff is beyond me.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

You need this guy named Roman who does amp repairs . His number is 773-202-0909


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

John broges sent me to him for board add on . He just repairs stuff thou. I had hard time understanding what said his accent his thick. When called about having the board installed on three amps I had.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

John has been 100% tied up with a personal issue for the last 10 months. He will be back at this in the next couple weeks I am sure. 

The DC amps are an absolute best buy, watt for watt, period. Old School Zapco Reference still costs double what the same DC costs WITH a bad ass DSP. I will be using them for many many years MORE.

When i first started running the DC's right when they came out in 06-07 all was well. I do remember on a rare occasion getting the full range output when turning the system on for the first time. Of course then, Zapco had never heard of it or had a clue what it could be and assumed it was something specific to my larger system. (Controller, DSP6 processor, and four DC amps all linked together) I changed nothing. At Finals in KY that year John flew out. He rode with me from the hotel to the show one of the mornings. Sure enough when I turned the key over it FINALLY did it with zapco sitting in the car. Turn the system off, back on, no issue. In all the years I comped with the DC's it never once happened during judging. I did narrow it down to temperature related. It only ever happened to me when the amps were below 40 degrees. 

I do not remember it ever happening again after the software updates starting rolling out. So lets start to gather data to determine if the mod is even required.

When is the last time it happened?
What version software is in the amp?
What else is networked with the amp?
What was the amps temperature?

It has been so long since since I have had it happen I cannot comment.

Envision would be the best person I know to reverse engineer the board if we determine it is needed.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I have had the latest firmware on all amps for a long time now. Don't remember associating it with temperature. I only have the DC amps and I don't keep them networked together because it causes a slight noise in the system when they are connected. I only connect them together when I am actually tuning. 

On a side note, I wished I could have heard your car at finals this year. I stopped by a couple times, but you weren't around either time.

I agree. These amps are the bomb-digitty and I'll keep using them, too. Just wish Zapco would service them - or even respond to service requests.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

KP said:


> John has been 100% tied up with a personal issue for the last 10 months. He will be back at this in the next couple weeks I am sure.
> 
> The DC amps are an absolute best buy, watt for watt, period. Old School Zapco Reference still costs double what the same DC costs WITH a bad ass DSP. I will be using them for many many years MORE.
> 
> ...


i was hoping youd chime in. i heard about his personal issues and i feel for him. but at the same time, a good amount of people are being left with no help for their questions. i havent had this exact noise happen with mine yet, but i have had other issues. Main ones being how to prevent noise with them all linked together, and another issue that i know would have to have the amp sent in. also, about 4 of the 6 amps in my 300 dont have properly working Power led's. have you ever experienced this? idk if the clipping and protect ones dont work either. i noticed this a couple months ago when tuning at night


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

Never heard of an LED issue. I have not experienced the noise after the software updates nor have I seen much talk about it. I guessed the update solved the issue. It was so rare to happen in my car with 6 DC pieces I never did figure out if it was one or multiple or even the same piece that did it. And after the update I do not remember it ever happening again.

Never had noise with them on a network or stand alone. Start by taking amps off the network until the faulty cable/amp is found. Are you using OEM Zapco network cables? (Phone cord style)


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

KP said:


> Never heard of an LED issue. I have not experienced the noise after the software updates nor have I seen much talk about it. I guessed the update solved the issue. It was so rare to happen in my car with 6 DC pieces I never did figure out if it was one or multiple or even the same piece that did it. And after the update I do not remember it ever happening again.
> 
> Never had noise with them on a network or stand alone. Start by taking amps off the network until the faulty cable/amp is found. Are you using OEM Zapco network cables? (Phone cord style)


yep, all oem zapco ones. when i first tested the amps with the network all together there was no noise. then out of the blue there was a pretty bad noise coming out of the midranges and slightly out of the tweeters. re-did the wiring for the network cables and noise went away, then randomly came back again. really weird. im just reluctant to get back in there to do it again just to have the noise come back in a few days


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

Describe the noise. I've had 4 or 5 variations of a DC networked sytsems in the TL and never had any issues. 

No need for a re-wire. Tell me what happens to the noise when you just unplug the network cable? What happens to the noise with the input unplugged? What happens with both the network and input unplugged?

How are you converting from unbalanced to balanced?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I get a faint "buzz" system noise when my amps are networked together. Disconnect them and the system is absolutely silent.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

When does the buss start? Two pieces networked, three, only all? Does it stop with any single piece off the network?


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

PS John just announced the passing of his wife on his FB account. 

https://www.facebook.com/john.borges


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

KP said:


> PS John just announced the passing of his wife on his FB account.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/john.borges


i'm very sorry and sad to read that. 

it kinda makes all this amp stuff meaningless to talk about.

i currently have 3 of these amps in my system and 3 on shelves. (i need to start stock piling more - they are sooooooo cheap now!)

i run a p99 head unit and am just feeding one rca output into a symbilink transmitter which goes to symbilink Y adapters in the trunk to get to the amps. i don't think i've ever tested removing the signal cables as part of testing that noise; i genuinely don't believe it has anything to do with it.

i have two dc350.2s, one each for my left/right front speakers (vertically bi-amped, 2-way system). these are the two i connect together for tuning most frequently. i know connecting them together creates the buzz. it's faint, and you overcome it easily with music/pink noise/whatever you are tuning with. but it's there and as an iasca judge i know i'd deduct a point for it. so i leave them disconnected. i have several zapco network cables and they all do the same thing.

i used to talk to robert rugani all the time when he was at zapco. i have been through a bunch of these amps over the years and he was awesome to deal with. very prompt, courteous, helpful...we remain friends on facebook. he sent me all the tech bulletins for the amps, all the latest firmware, etc. i remember him telling me about some of the original network cables being sent out with a bad pinout. one of the tech articles has the correct pinout and he sent me a bunch of known good cables. i did have a bad one and remember this terrible screeching when i used it. this noise floor buzz is not the noise of one of the original bad cables.

my sub amp is a dc750.2 and i *think* that when i connect that one with the other two the noise is still there and doesn't change. i don't know that i've been through every scenario to exclude the possibility of just one of the amps creating that buzz. maybe i'll do some testing.

*also* - since you are so knowledgable with these products...

both of my dc350.2s have a very slight turn off pop when they power down. i have tested every possible connection possibility including powering them directly without signal connected. they still have this very faint "pop" (i don't even know if i'd really describe it as a "pop" - it's such a faint noise), and you can hear it in quick sequence as each amp shuts down at very slightly different times. someone told me it sounds like the dc offset(?) needs to be tweaked. have you encountered this? again, it's so faint i normally wouldn't even care. if you shut the whole car down you don't even hear it because of the other car noises going on. but it's a point. possibly two. heh.

i'm going to be adding two more dc350.2s to the system soon, one for each driver up front. those two are the ones that have the howl mod. i'm going to put those on the smaller drivers so at least there's a less likely chance they'll get toasted from the howl. but i would really like to have the howl mod on the two currently running, and have the pop thing investigated.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

KP said:


> Describe the noise. I've had 4 or 5 variations of a DC networked sytsems in the TL and never had any issues.
> 
> No need for a re-wire. Tell me what happens to the noise when you just unplug the network cable? What happens to the noise with the input unplugged? What happens with both the network and input unplugged?
> 
> How are you converting from unbalanced to balanced?


heres when it was doing it faintly through my tweeters. now its doing it through them and the mids. the mids noise are much louder








when i unplug the network cable it goes away. i didnt try unplugging the input. using the symbilink transmitters and all oem wiring for the balanced signal conversion and network connection


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

that sounds about like mine. yours seems loud, but w/ how close it was to the driver i think it might just be amplified more in the recording. but it is the same noise tone/pitch. and yes, mine goes dead silent as soon as the network cables are removed.


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

Goldcar said:


> Well, just lots of dust, no mod  I did however just send an email to Zapco about it, interested to hear what they say back... I am in for this mod. Even if someone could get a kit together. Print a bunch of PCB's, get a bag of each component and send whatever needed in a little bag, solder yourself. The components and board are probably under 4$ per unit.
> 
> The single fan is a 40x40x10, no idea on speed but its 0.09A, 7 blade design. 2 pin connector. My replacment will most likley be a Scythe mini Kaze its fits perfect, 2 wire, very quiet, and i have really liked all my past scythe fans.


I have 40mm x 40mm x10mm 12v fans. $8 each plus shipping PM me.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

I ran three fans per on mine. Just trim the spacer down. You have to get power from the remote terminal or run it outside the amp to a switch. Do not put more than one fan on the internal plug.

What version software are you on? Never had any on/off pops either.

Post a pic of the unbalanced to balanced converter(s) you are using. The right converter is the key to REALLY wake these amps up.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

PS-I a putting a multi piece DC system in my truck now. I will let you know if I have any issues.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

KP said:


> The right converter is the key to REALLY wake these amps up.


any reason why? the converters im using are the ones that come with them. The SLDIN.T-F if i remember correctly?


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

KP said:


> I ran three fans per on mine. Just trim the spacer down. You have to get power from the remote terminal or run it outside the amp to a switch. Do not put more than one fan on the internal plug.
> 
> What version software are you on? Never had any on/off pops either.
> 
> Post a pic of the unbalanced to balanced converter(s) you are using. The right converter is the key to REALLY wake these amps up.


I know BennyZ is using original Symbilink converters.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Yes, the converter that comes with the amps (I have a drawer full lol). I just use one in my system. It's located in the dash behind the p99 and sent to the trunk where it is split off to the amps.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Are these issues common across the entire DC line? This spring I will be swapping out my DSP-6 and reference amps in favor of the DSP-6 and a DC500.1 per channel. In my truck it will be near impossible to disconnect the network cables between tuning sessions as the Rams rear seat does not fold down, no am I willing to modify the clips to allow the seat to fold.

Would it be possible to eliminate the noise, or attenuate it enough to be inaudible without impacting the system dynamics using a combination of the settings on the transmitter and the input sensitivity of the DC amps?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Common? Not sure. Seems KP doesn't have these problems, except for past problems with the howl.

The network-connected floor noise buzz both SkizeR and I seem to have. 

I asked a friend who used to retail these amps about the turn off "pop" (again, it is super faint, and I'm being picky only for competition points reasons - one judge at finals heard it...the other did not). He told me he did encounter that problem occasionally. He's the one who told me the DC offset needs tweaked.

I was at a high end retail shop in St Louis a month or so ago and they told me they stopped selling the DC amps because of the howl and more recently dropped Zapco altogether due to support and product availability.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

powered up my system today. guess who got their first Zapco howl?


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

Below 40 degrees?

To convert from unbalanced to balanced I suggest to find a SLB-TP or SLB-TP4 if you need four channels. Install it as close to the head unit as possible and run symbalink cables to the rear. Either may help the noise floor as you will be able to lower the gains.

What version software is everyone running?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

KP said:


> Below 40 degrees?
> 
> To convert from unbalanced to balanced I suggest to find a SLB-TP or SLB-TP4 if you need four channels. Install it as close to the head unit as possible and run symbalink cables to the rear. Either may help the noise floor as you will be able to lower the gains.
> 
> What version software is everyone running?


today was a bit warmer than usual. about 40-45 degrees. im running 1.41 software. And are the transmitters that come with the DC not good or something? im also curious about those. How exactly should you be setting them? Like when should i use 0, or +6 or +12 db and why? in my old car the clip light on the transmitter would sometimes flash but i forget what setting i had it on


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Looks like SLB-TB sends 18v balanced. I think the standard transmitter that comes with them sends 12v?

Anyway. I disconnected the signal altogether. Connected the network cable between my left and right amps, and the buzz is still there. It is independent of the signal. I want to reiterate that without the network cables connected I have zero noise in the system. 

I am also on v 1.41.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> today was a bit warmer than usual. about 40-45 degrees. im running 1.41 software. And are the transmitters that come with the DC not good or something? im also curious about those. How exactly should you be setting them? Like when should i use 0, or +6 or +12 db and why? in my old car the clip light on the transmitter would sometimes flash but i forget what setting i had it on


the jumpers are to boost the input signal to the DC amps. by putting it at +6 it doubles the voltage, +12 will quadruple.

2V Preouts from the deck with +12 = 8V input.

The DC amps are designed to take a maximum of 16V


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Well why didn't they just put that on the damn transmitters? Lmao!

I guess I always assumed it took your input voltage and added the + number to it.

Being that both SkizeR and I use a p99 source with 4v outputs, the transmitter is sending the maximum 16v to the amp. 

Related question - what happens to that voltage when you split it? Mine is split from the single run 3 times currently and will be 5 times soon. Does the voltage drop at all? Significantly?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

benny z said:


> Well why didn't they just put that on the damn transmitters? Lmao!
> 
> I guess I always assumed it took your input voltage and added the + number to it.
> 
> ...


Voltage never splits. Amperage does. I have my transmitters on +6. I wasn't sure if 12 would be to much because when they were on my old alpine occasionally the transmitters clip light would go off. I didn't want any of that

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

We know there is no noise if no network and noise if everything is networked. To eliminate any single bad component have you tried just one, all combinations of two, just one piece off the network, etc?

Going from the converters you are using to the SLB's is like going from a lo octane gas to racing fuel. If you would like to try one shoot me your address. I can send you one to BORROW so you can decide if you want to drop the $50-$125 on a 2 or four channel version. One popped up on e-bay over night for $60. Glad to send one before you drop the coin though. LMK.

My truck has been in the machine shop for two longs months with the system for it gathering dust. I went to talk to them Friday so I suspect to have the truck next week, done or not.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

benny z said:


> Well why didn't they just put that on the damn transmitters? Lmao!
> 
> I guess I always assumed it took your input voltage and added the + number to it.
> 
> ...


I'm no expert, but I would think you would see a small bit of voltage drop


SkizeR said:


> Voltage never splits. Amperage does. I have my transmitters on +6. I wasn't sure if 12 would be to much because when they were on my old alpine occasionally the transmitters clip light would go off. I didn't want any of that
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I don't think he was implying the voltage would split, but if it would drop. I'm not expert or engineer, but I would guess that when he splits and you introduce another run of sldin to the same transmitter you're introducing additional resistance which means he'll have a little bit of voltage drop. 

You should be able to put the jumpers on 12 no problem. I've had a 9887 with 4v pre outs and I had them set at 12.

Lastly, for those who have the DC350.2. Remove all the network cables from the amp just as a test and check to see if that slight buzz is still there and report back....


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

KP said:


> We know there is no noise if no network and noise if everything is networked. To eliminate any single bad component have you tried just one, all combinations of two, just one piece off the network, etc?
> 
> Going from the converters you are using to the SLB's is like going from a lo octane gas to racing fuel. If you would like to try one shoot me your address. I can send you one to BORROW so you can decide if you want to drop the $50-$125 on a 2 or four channel version. One popped up on e-bay over night for $60. Glad to send one before you drop the coin though. LMK.
> 
> My truck has been in the machine shop for two longs months with the system for it gathering dust. I went to talk to them Friday so I suspect to have the truck next week, done or not.


wow very generous offer Kirk. 

Very good advice, looks like you beat me to it. I am like 99% sure the amp that is causing those with the noise is the 350.2.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

So with my system I would need 6 of them? I unfortunately have 4 mono amps so.. :/ I always thought they were the same but in a smaller case

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

If the amps can only accept 16v in ("ONLY", heh) - and we are already sending 16v to them (4v out of p99 with +12 setting on transmitter...4 X 4 = 16), how would we benefit from the stronger converter?

I do appreciate the offer, KP, but for $60, if it would really be of benefit, I'd just buy it.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

shutmdown said:


> Lastly, for those who have the DC350.2. Remove all the network cables from the amp just as a test and check to see if that slight buzz is still there and report back....



Yes, that is what I am saying is my problem. There is no noise from my dc350.2s *until* I connect the network cable between them.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I went ahead and bought that transmitter on eBay. But after looking at the pic, it looks like it has the same max gain of +12?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

kirk - also - the slb units have a power/ground/remote connection. however, i found documentation online that they can be powered through the symbilink system power (basically getting power from the amps). is this the way you use them w/ the dc reference amps? ...or are you connecting them to separate power?

i also found this slb-u, which appears to be a transmitter filter/volume control box that you can add a knob to. it only has balanced inputs and outputs. does this work as a converter if i feed it with rca to din conversion cables directly?

ZAPCO SIGNAL PROCESSOR SLB-U | Audiopedia.net

and from here: http://autosound21.co.kr/shop/board_data/automanual/symbilinkmanual.pdf

"The SLB-U is the most versatile of the SymbiLink units. The basic unit is a differentially balanced signal input stage combined with a line driver capable of adding up to 12 dB of gain to any standard RCA signal input. The end result is that the SLB-U will convert a standard, high impedance RCA input to a low impedance, high voltage balanced output.
The SLB-U also offers provisions for expanding your system with two options:
First, a VFM cable (see following page) can be added to the SLB-U. This will turn the unit into a volume control as well as a transmitter. You need only plug the cable and knob into the port on the SLB-U and you will be able to control your amp volume remotely.
Your second option with the SLB-U is to add an SX Filter Module and a second VFM cable/knob. Now you will have a single band, ± 18dB, equalizer. This is the perfect combination for controlling a bass amp.
NOTE: The SLB-U comes with a power input plug for use with non- SymbiLink amps (which we will cover later). If you are using it with a SymbiLink amp, the SymbiLink cable will provide power. The external plug is not needed.
(Maximum sonic performance with the SymbiLink system is best achieved by placing the first processor in line as close to the source, by signal cable run, as possible).

￼The VFM cable is a potentiometer that may be used in two ways with the SLB-U.
First, you can convert any SLB-U to operate as a volume control as well as a SymbiLink Transmitter. Simply plug the cable into the appropriate DIN receptacle and put the mode switch into Volume / Filter position. You now have a remote volume control for any amp hooked to the SLB-U.
Second, another VFM cable will also allow you to use the SLB-U as a single frequency equalizer. Plug in the cable, plug in the filter chip, and you now have the industry’s best bass amp control."


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

I've never had a 350.2 so if there is something specific to that model I wouldn't know about it.

If you are doing the conversion at the amp, then you would need one per amp. I converted right behind the head unit and ran one symbalink cable to the DSP6 and then out from there.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

benny z said:


> kirk - also - the slb units have a power/ground/remote connection. however, i found documentation online that they can be powered through the symbilink system power (basically getting power from the amps). is this the way you use them w/ the dc reference amps? ...or are you connecting them to separate power?
> 
> i also found this slb-u, which appears to be a transmitter filter/volume control box that you can add a knob to. it only has balanced inputs and outputs. does this work as a converter if i feed it with rca to din conversion cables directly?


Ben I am using a SLB-U as my converter, RCA in to Din out set at +6. No extra power is needed feeding into the DSP-6. I'm not sure it will work as a standalone transmitter with out the vol/filter knob attached. I will open up my center console tonight to unplug the volume knob to find out though.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

audiovibe said:


> Ben I am using a SLB-U as my converter, RCA in to Din out set at +6. No extra power is needed feeding into the DSP-6. I'm not sure it will work as a standalone transmitter with out the vol/filter knob attached. I will open up my center console tonight to unplug the volume knob to find out though.


awesome - thank you!

i found a seller with the SLB-U and the vol/filter knob on eBay. $20 each!!! i bought two of each. i'll use one for my sub amp and probably stock pile the other. for my mains i'll use the other 2-channel transmitter kirk told me to buy. i don't see how that is any better than the updated transmitter we are currently using, however. we will see.

skizer, he has more - you might want to pick one up just to have for that price.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Zapco Slbu Brand New | eBay

Zapco Sldin VOL18 Brand New | eBay


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

The SLB-U will work standalone without the volume pot attached. Just make sure the switch on the left is set to Transmitter/Filter. I forgot there was a setting for transmitter on the SLB-U. 

At least my center console is easy to disassemble i guess :shame:


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

audiovibe said:


> The SLB-U will work standalone without the volume pot attached. Just make sure the switch on the left is set to Transmitter/Filter. I forgot there was a setting for transmitter on the SLB-U.
> 
> At least my center console is easy to disassemble i guess :shame:


thanks for that.

...on a day that is 0 degrees! hope you have a headed garage. 

i'm a little south of you in bloomington. have we met?


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

We met at judges training in Peoria. I was the quiet one in the middle row behind Bob and in front of I believe Chris and Tom IIRC. 

Aron


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

aha! cool. #thumbsup

i need to hear your car sometime!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ben, maybe hes the wire loom guy lol


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

lmao! nope.

but he's on here, too.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

I have slbu's out the arse if anyone wants to try them. They are line drivers though. Not converters.

If you can find one, the noise gates work well too. Also no power needed.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I'm confused - Zapco's own documentation says it converts it to balanced output. ?

"The SLB-U is the most versatile of the SymbiLink units. The basic unit is a differentially balanced signal input stage combined with a line driver capable of adding up to 12 dB of gain to any standard RCA signal input. The end result is that the SLB-U will convert a standard, high impedance RCA input to a low impedance, high voltage balanced output."


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

so are the transmitters that come with the dc's not good? whats different about them from the others?


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

I thought the other transmitters had to have separate power pack?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

John was nice enough to email me the schematic for the mod. looks like we were close


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

KP said:


> I have slbu's out the arse if anyone wants to try them. They are line drivers though. Not converters.
> 
> If you can find one, the noise gates work well too. Also no power needed.


The slbu's will take a balanced input, hence not a technically a converter? Is that correct KP?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> John was nice enough to email me the schematic for the mod. looks like we were close.


Wow! A response! With the info we were seeking! I have a spark of renewed faith!

Now - who can piece these together? I need at least 4.


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Nice! No guesswork now (thought i was close on components just by finding the matching stamping # on top!)

Lots of good info here, thanks guys. If someone were to make up a PCB, guessing everyone would want through hole?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Goldcar said:


> Nice! No guesswork now (thought i was close on components just by finding the matching stamping # on top!)
> 
> Lots of good info here, thanks guys. If someone were to make up a PCB, guessing everyone would want through hole?


talking to a local friend now who might be willing to make them


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Awesome !!! When I have been able to talk to John he bent over backwards for me. Might text him and say I am sorry about his wife.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> John was nice enough to email me the schematic for the mod. looks like we were close


Well done buddy.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

SLB's are balanced line drivers. 

Zapco Slbu Brand New | eBay


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

im just not seeing much of a reason why they would be better than the ones that come with the amps


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Sorry to derail slightly, just a quick question now that some knowledgeable guys are following... 
Can i use Y splitters before an SLB-TP RCA input to go to another, non zapco amp? i really dont want to use Y's but i only have 1 set of RCA's available at the HU. Trying to figure out if i need to explore more options like a 6ch line driver at the HU to get to 2 amps, or even a zapco box that will do it.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Goldcar said:


> Sorry to derail slightly, just a quick question now that some knowledgeable guys are following...
> Can i use Y splitters before an SLB-TP RCA input to go to another, non zapco amp? i really dont want to use Y's but i only have 1 set of RCA's available at the HU. Trying to figure out if i need to explore more options like a 6ch line driver at the HU to get to 2 amps, or even a zapco box that will do it.


That's what I made this thread for. General questions about these amps. I don't see why you can't do that though 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

Goldcar said:


> Sorry to derail slightly, just a quick question now that some knowledgeable guys are following...
> Can i use Y splitters before an SLB-TP RCA input to go to another, non zapco amp? i really dont want to use Y's but i only have 1 set of RCA's available at the HU. Trying to figure out if i need to explore more options like a 6ch line driver at the HU to get to 2 amps, or even a zapco box that will do it.


Y-adapter will work fine.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

SkizeR said:


> im just not seeing much of a reason why they would be better than the ones that come with the amps



Curious to see what Benny thinks after he gets one in his car.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

KP said:


> Curious to see what Benny thinks after he gets one in his car.



Me too. 

I've gotten no shipping notification for it yet. And I've tried contacting the seller twice with no response. Hopefully he shipped it! :/


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> im just not seeing much of a reason why they would be better than the ones that come with the amps


I agree with you. I thank these where first gen transmitters .


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

optimaprime said:


> I agree with you. I thank these where first gen transmitters .


like unless the ones that come with it are in some way, actually messing with the signal..?


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I would really like to understand the technical differences between the two, too. I always assumed the ones we have that came with the amps were just updated, more conveniently-sized versions of the older units. They don't have an external power supply option, but it's not needed with the amps as they get their power from the amps.


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

benny z said:


> I would really like to understand the technical differences between the two, too. I always assumed the ones we have that came with the amps were just updated, more conveniently-sized versions of the older units. They don't have an external power supply option, but it's not needed with the amps as they get their power from the amps.


Need a bridge? I've got one to sell you.


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

Same thing the guy that bought my old DC's said. I let him borrow one of mine just to see. He wound up copying it and making an upgraded version. Unless you can talk MattR into making one from scratch, this is the way to go.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I still haven't heard a peep from the seller I bought it from. I requested a refund yesterday. Still no response.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Hooked this up today temporarily to test. Ran a short RCA to Symbilink conversion cable to it (no transmitter) and I'm not getting much output out of it even with the volume knob all the way up and the setting on the box at +12db. I raised the level of the output for that RCA to +6 on the p99 and it still wasn't as loud as before. It seems it's not actually boosting the balanced output +12 like the standalone transmitter was. *shrug*

Think I'm gonna move it to the trunk and put it on the signal cable it was on before (in line after the existing transmitter) and see if that makes a difference.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Did what I said I was going to do. Moved it to the trunk. Simply disconnected the feed going to the amp and fed it into this, then into the amp. NOW it's definitely boosting/working.  I ended up changing it from +12 to +6. At half volume on the knob it seems to be where it was without the knob. Now I can go up or down easily from there. Nice!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

benny z said:


> Did what I said I was going to do. Moved it to the trunk. Simply disconnected the feed going to the amp and fed it into this, then into the amp. NOW it's definitely boosting/working.  I ended up changing it from +12 to +6. At half volume on the knob it seems to be where it was without the knob. Now I can go up or down easily from there. Nice!


Any benefit over this then the regular transmitters?


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

It's a balanced line transmitter. Helps to reduce noise over longer distances. I think the best application is to place it near the HU and sending symbilink into your amp or dsp6. In the DSP software you can set the input sensitivity to match the output you set on the transmitter giving you a nice clean signal.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

optimaprime said:


> Any benefit over this then the regular transmitters?


this doesn't appear to be a boosting transmitter - at least, it did not give me the same level (even on the +12 setting and the volume knob all the way up) as the transmitter alone. i ended up using it in line after the transmitter and the setting on +6. maybe kp can explain... it is either misleading or i am confused on what it is actually supposed to do.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I believe KP was 100% correct, that the SLB-U is a Transmitter/Line driver. I also added a transmitter in line before my SLBU last week. There seems to be a notable difference. I am about 97% positive the SLBU does not convert to a balanced signal as a dealer implied before I purchased mine. 


HMMMMMMMMMM. That could explain why he isn't a Zapco dealer anymore. 

I compared the two in A/B/C fashion. 
A - One transmitter set to 6db
B - No transmitter SLB-U set to 6db
C - One transmitter set to 0db into the SLB-U set to 6db

Track used - Over the Rainbow - Eva Cassidy
Source - P99 with volume set at 20.

Not really a scientific test so it holds no water but I felt I could tell a difference between no transmitter and the use of a transmitter. I personally could not tell an audible difference between the Transmitter set at 6db VS. the transmitter set at 0db and the SLB-U set to 6db.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

benny z said:


> this doesn't appear to be a boosting transmitter - at least, it did not give me the same level (even on the +12 setting and the volume knob all the way up) as the transmitter alone. i ended up using it in line after the transmitter and the setting on +6. maybe kp can explain... it is either misleading or i am confused on what it is actually supposed to do.


Ben, I can see the SLB being used to get a hot signal from a low voltage HU using the logic KP posted earlier (+6 doubles and +12 quadruples). 2v HU into a transmitter @ +12, into the SLB-U @ +6 would yield a 16v signal. 

KP does that sound right?

My main use of the SLB is still as a master level control though.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

audiovibe said:


> Ben, I can see the SLB being used to get a hot signal from a low voltage HU using the logic KP posted earlier (+6 doubles and +12 quadruples). 2v HU into a transmitter @ +12, into the SLB-U @ +6 would yield a 16v signal.
> 
> KP does that sound right?
> 
> My main use of the SLB is still as a master level control though.


Possibly. I am using a P99 tho also, which is 4v output...the transmitter at +12, then the SLB-U at +6... so 4 x 4 = 16v + 6 = 22v?

I did play some pretty loud/bass heavy passages and was looking at the sub amp for the input clipping warning light...it was not indicating any clipping. *shrug*

Only other thing to consider is that I am splitting that main run from the transmitter to three amps... the SLB-U is in line after the first splitter for the sub amp.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

I made a quick chart that shows my signal path.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ben, the P99 is 5v at max output

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

benny z said:


> Possibly. I am using a P99 tho also, which is 4v output...the transmitter at +12, then the SLB-U at +6... so 4 x 4 = 16v + 6 = 22v?
> 
> I did play some pretty loud/bass heavy passages and was looking at the sub amp for the input clipping warning light...it was not indicating any clipping. *shrug*
> 
> Only other thing to consider is that I am splitting that main run from the transmitter to three amps... the SLB-U is in line after the first splitter for the sub amp.


I'm not sure where the P99 starts clip, I do know they are super clean. How reliable are the clipping leds on the DC amps? I believe SkizieR said his input clip lights come on. Is the input clipping signal registered on the board after the input sensitivity in the DC programming is registered? 

Ben and SkizieR How low are your input sections set (0 or -12 and what input voltage are you guys using) As you guys are using identical source to amplifier why does skizieRs clip and not yours? 

If you wouldn't mind ramp up the input sensitivity on your sub amp to see if the clip indicator lights. I'm thinking that the input clip will light once the amplifier starts to clip the input section, not so much registering the external source unless the signal is clipped to start. Garbage in garbage out type of thing

Ive had the transmitter clipping before but that was setting it to +12 with a PC sound card rated at like .9 volts

I don't think voltage will divide unless a resistor is used in line. I could be way off base on that though, much like the rest of the topic i guess.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

audiovibe said:


> I'm not sure where the P99 starts clip, I do know they are super clean.


without any sort of boosting, they do not clip up to max volume




audiovibe said:


> How reliable are the clipping leds on the DC amps? I believe SkizieR said his input clip lights come on. Is the input clipping signal registered on the board after the input sensitivity in the DC programming is registered?


as far as reliability, i have no idea. i should test that. but my led problem was some of the power LED's (not sure about clipping) not coming on when the amp is on



audiovibe said:


> Ben and SkizieR How low are your input sections set (0 or -12 and what input voltage are you guys using) As you guys are using identical source to amplifier why does skizieRs clip and not yours?


my transmitters i forget, they are either +6 or +12. i have no way to check in this cold weather since they are zip tied to the crash bar behind my dash. on the amps setting, i have it set at -12, then "5.00". im realizing setting it to -12 is probably counter productive? again, mine doesnt clip unless volumes where you would expect it to


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## Goldcar (Dec 8, 2015)

Was going to install a few DC amps in a couple months. a DC350.2, and a DC500.1. (In the future i want to add a DC 4ch for active front, and run the 350.2 for rear coax)

How do i hook this **** up? The only zapco box i have is an SLB-TP.

I have 2 sets of RCA out on the HU, and want to split the front pair for front/sub so i can fade the back out when no passengers are in there. So im thinking starting behind the HU: 

RCA->SLB-TP----SLDIN.18---->SLDIN.Y. One Y output to the 350.2, and the other to an SLB-U. SLBU output to DC500.1, and a VOL.18 knob going back to the dash.

Sound good? is there a better/cheaper way?


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## bginvestor (Jan 13, 2008)

Guys, are the older DC references compatible with the newer (2012 and newer) models? Network feature? thx


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## Jay21 (Apr 2, 2015)

I keep wanting to ask, "Is zapco dead" or dying?


I have a P99 Head unit,. I had the amps pro calibrated. but I get "Input overload" on one unit (left channel) 

My symbalink was at +12DB so I changed to 0db cant tell if that's causing the issue?

i guess every company dies after a while, with no support I cant justify buying their new amps at all because for a regular guy its complicated!:bigcry::dunce::dunce::dunce::shrug:

My internal amp was set at -6 db 
I moved it to 0db and run the deck now much lower, at 20 not 37.


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## Jay21 (Apr 2, 2015)

sounds ok


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

WoofersETC apparently clearing our DRC if anyone looking 

DRC-SL - Zapco In dash Digital Remote Control/Programmer/Display

Also - SkizeR has some too...


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Ordered some 6p6C connectors - going to attempt to make my own shielded DPN network cables and see if that gets rid of the noise so I can leave them connected...

If it works, I couldn't order less than 50 connectors and I already had the tooling for crimping them properly - so I'd be happy to pass them along to anyone else needed them just for shipping costs


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

unix_usr said:


> Ordered some 6p6C connectors - going to attempt to make my own shielded DPN network cables and see if that gets rid of the noise so I can leave them connected...
> 
> If it works, I couldn't order less than 50 connectors and I already had the tooling for crimping them properly - so I'd be happy to pass them along to anyone else needed them just for shipping costs


nice
or just make em and sell for a small profit


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Neah - this place has been so great to learn and share stuff... Feels good to give back a little when you can  - 50 gold plated connectors cost me like $10 on Amazon. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

would be happy to buy some from ya if they eliminate the noise.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

yeah that would be really sweet. also, benny, can you give an honest review between the two symbilink transmitters if you can


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Bad news  - so I managed to make some (considerably) shorter cables using shielded twisted pair and crimping new ends on them. The noise remains, even with them plugged in directly above the amps so they're not near any power wires and still the same problem. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

are they actually shielded? as in a grounded drain wire?


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Foil wrap and a ground line running through... But the connectors I crimped did not have any shielding on them (had to just cut the shield wire at both ends)


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

damn. that sucks. when i redid mine the noise went away. at this point im not even sure what the hell causes it


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

I'm wondering if all the wires are actually used; ie if maybe dwindling down to a single twisted pair on the center two pins would suffice. 


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

As promised I put a Zapco DC system in my daily driver. The DSP6 I already had from my comp car. (Piece has more World Championships than I remember) Paired it with a DC 500.1 and three DC 200.2's for a simple small system. The four amps I bought new from various sellers. No misc noise issues as described in this thread. I used cables and data cords I already had. This is the third vehicle most of them have been in. It has 'airplaned' twice in the month it has been playing. Both times were early in the AM. The first time the system was on for the day.

I sent this link to an electronics guru to see if they are interested in fabbing/selling/and even installation of the boards.

You can see the four small amps double stacked in pairs on the back of the sub box.

For a small midbass, low powered system it rocks!

AudioTech 12's down firing, 6-1/2's in the doors, Morel 4" and tweets in the dash. Active three way. I'd wager a $20 it would place top 3 at MECA Finals in Street.


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## barracuda777 (Mar 4, 2009)

KP said:


> ...
> I'd wager a $20 it would place top 3 at MECA Finals in Street.


It´s gonna be interesting. Must go to final this year, even as spectator


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