# 2011 Hyundai Sonata Horrorshow



## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Brand New Car! Yea. 

Got a base model Sonata, with manual transmission (had to do the base model in order to get the manual transmission, which is a must for me). 

Anyway, started out with a quickie install right before/as we were moving (believe it or not). 

Front stage is powered by a 4x40w Hifonics Zeus, running fully active off a Coustic XM6:

Dayton 5/8" rear mount soft domes in the sails (hot-glued in from behind, and then covered with grille cloth... looks meh, but sounds pretty good). 

Kept the stock 20w 6.5" midbasses in the doors because they sounded pretty good and moved the door panels pretty well. Of course, once I got the inner door skins dynamatted, they quickly proved inadequate. 

Saw Chad's suggestion of the 6" Vifas and put one in, but it wasn't doing it for me either. 

Finally just ordered a pair of the Peerless HDS $30 buyouts from PE, and a Soundstream STL4.500 to run them (will bridge to 2x~125w @ 8ohms. 

I'm hoping to find a small 2ch tweeter amp to run the tweeters, or maybe get another SS stl (the Hifonics 4x40 is Very Chunky) and run some 2" dome mids from 800-5k and the 5/8" Daytons from 5k+, all active. Im thinking of doing these in a set of those robolop-style christmas balls and just bolt them to the sails or dash. (A-pillar contains an airbag so cant do anything there.)

Right now the sub stage is a 12" Alpine Type R (new style) in a 1.25cuft sealed box, but working out a design for a 2cuft ported one, running off a Hifonics 1200.1D (900w into 2ohms).


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## getonerd (Jul 24, 2007)

pics


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

getonerd said:


> pics




Soon... The peerlesses should be here by the weekend, not to mention the new amp to run them. Might go get some MDF for the new sub box tomorrow.  Everything else is pretty boring at this point.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

If you're going to start a build thread please give us something of substance


Get your ducks inline then bang it out


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

trojan fan said:


> If you're going to start a build thread please give us something of substance
> 
> 
> Get your ducks inline then bang it out


okie dokie... these are from the initial installation:


Whatcha got this here is that whatchacall oneadem closer-ups of the stock mid on the dynamatted inner panel. The Hyundai doors are really very nicely engineered... The window regulator rides on that plastic formed inner panel, which is bolted to the steel carcass. (I love that word, carcass.) What you cant really see here is the stock speaker mount is formed in the shape of a sort of "tower" that sticks out from the rest of the panel... On the back side of this structure is hollow areas reinforced by plastic webbing (for lack of a better term.. just think of thin, plastic sub box bracing). Anyway, I filled all those voids with bits of Dynamat to solidify the whole inner panel...










Bare carcass as issued by our friends in Alabama (Korean car built in Mobile, Alabama, of course.):










My rule of thumb for dynamatting is basically to add dynamat until rapping on the metal no longer creates a ring...










Here is the dynamatted inner panel, which is just a fancy way to hang the window regulator (and speaker) on the door... In this situation, I had to cut the dynamat into small strips and squares to run it in and out of the little nooks and crannies on the inner panel... 









I know I have more pics somewhere, just need to find them...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Couple more pics....

I am a giant fat monster, and it took me DECADES to install this amp mounting board inside the trunk. 











The thing that took so long was to line up the mounting board bolts so that on the back side of the same wall, I could mount my oldskool Crutchfield-blue (PPI built) 4x75w amp, on the very same mounting studs:










Unfortunately, I only learned at the last moment that the amp was dead on one channel, which is when I ordered the Hifonics Zeus (4x40). That Hifonics will most likely end up on ebay as I intend to replace it with a much smaller Soundstream stealth (or actually, two soundstream stealths..)


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## danyman (Sep 6, 2009)

my kia has the same type of door. but mine has an aluminum panel and not plastic. either way i would suggest to reenforce that panel. i find it to flimsy. added some plywood and its solid as hell now. midbass is emproved big time. i will replacing it with 1/8 aluminum insead of wood


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

danyman said:


> my kia has the same type of door. but mine has an aluminum panel and not plastic. either way i would suggest to reenforce that panel. i find it to flimsy. added some plywood and its solid as hell now. midbass is emproved big time. i will replacing it with 1/8 aluminum insead of wood


As I mentioned above, and as my pictures show, I did deaden the stock plastic panels very heavily with dynamat. They came from the factory already stiffened to some degree with just the way the panel was formed, but the addition of lots of dynamat has rendered them quite dead. Where the stock 6.5 mids used to shake the entire *outer* (meaning, the trim panel you see inside the car) door panel, now they barely vibrate. 

What year is your Kia?


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## USS Enterprise (May 26, 2007)

Fantastic! I look forward to more pics. Glad to see mroe of these cars up here. I bought the exact same car, for the exact same reason. Had to have a manual.

If you could do me a quick favor though, when you get a chance. Would it be possible to measure the mounting depth for the front 6.5's?
Mine is still bone stock, and I want to order replacement speakers, so knowing my limits on depth would greatly help me choose my driver.
Don't want to buy a pair and find out they don't fit....


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## danyman (Sep 6, 2009)

i have a 2010 rondo. my doors are dead too but they have flex due to being thin aluminum even if its formed like yours.... only the window track section like u took off


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## 9mmmac (Dec 14, 2010)

Your door panels are groovy. On my little car, I have more missing than what's there- seriously. I get a door skin, a reinforcing bar and a little metal panel that holds the elec. window motor. LOTS of open space. NOT going to be fun to fix...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

danyman said:


> i have a 2010 rondo. my doors are dead too but they have flex due to being thin aluminum even if its formed like yours.... only the window track section like u took off


apples and oranges.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

I'm so jealous of people who have cars with that kind of access to the outer door skin - no need to cut the CLD or wedge your arms though holes in the door and try to install it blindly.


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## danyman (Sep 6, 2009)

rape_ape said:


> apples and oranges.


kia and hyundai are the same builds.. ive got hyundai in my car


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> I'm so jealous of people who have cars with that kind of access to the outer door skin - no need to cut the CLD or wedge your arms though holes in the door and try to install it blindly.


Having completely gutted the car to dynamat it and run wires, I am very impressed in general with the Hyundai engineering department. I broke ZERO clips or other plastic bits doing the teardown/reinstallation. 

Anyway, something came in the fedex today...












hmmm......










100w RMS power handling (note the voicecoil vent holes in the cone)... They are 8 ohms each, so I am going to put an amp rated at 250wpc @4ohms on them, hoping to get around 125wpc available (@8ohms -- I like headroom)....










looks like they will fit perfectly.... There may be a small issue with the door glass, but it started to rain today as I started working on things so I will find out more about that tomorrow...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

danyman said:


> kia and hyundai are the same builds.. ive got hyundai in my car


your aluminum flimsy door panels = apples

my plastic ones = oranges.


next.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

I like those Hyundai Sonanta's very slick cars. Good luck with your build.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

What's the purpose of those vents on the back of the cone behind the dust cap? Are do they help cool the voice coil, or are they to vent, uh... intradustcapal* pressure? 

* yes, I just made that up


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> What's the purpose of those vents on the back of the cone behind the dust cap? Are do they help cool the voice coil, or are they to vent, uh... intradustcapal* pressure?
> 
> * yes, I just made that up


Since they are rated at 100w RMS on only a 1.25" voice coil, yes I think it is safe to assume they are for voice coil venting.


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## marion31 (Mar 31, 2012)

i just got a new sonata also... i was wondering if u knew the actual max speaker depth that could fit in the door before i buy my speakers, kinda wanna avoid taking apart the car more than once lol


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

marion31 said:


> i just got a new sonata also... i was wondering if u knew the actual max speaker depth that could fit in the door before i buy my speakers, kinda wanna avoid taking apart the car more than once lol


Sorry I havent been back in to check this for you. But my peerlesses fit, and as you can see by the picture, they are pretty deep. I would say you are safe up to about 3.25" for sure.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Alright after a lot of thinking and listening to the system as it is, I have decided to change from a two-way active front stage to a three- way, using these:




















Tweeters are Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8"s from PE. Right now I have the ND-20s, which I like a lot. These ND16s are even smaller, which is going to help me with the new install.

The midranges are 2" "Factory Buyouts", also from PE. These are also damn tiny and will help me fit these into pods on the door sails, as planned.

The midbasses are the 6.5" Peerlesses pictured in an earlier post, above.

I am going to use my Coustic XM6 as the front-stage active crossover, and my 4x40 Hifonics amp for the mids and tweets, and my 2x125(8ohms) Soundstream for the midbasses. 

Because of complaints from my rear-seat passengers, I have been talked into doing rear-door speakers. For these I got some alpine SPR-60 coaxials and will be getting yet another amp, most likely the Soundstream STL2.350 ([email protected]). 

My sub stage is going from a single Alpine SWR-1243D in a 2cuft precision-ported box to a pair of Alpine SWR-843Ds in a 1.2cuft precision-ported box right behind my driver's seat, with the subs facing backwards, and the port firing upwards. 99.99% of the time I only have my son in the back seat, and the other .01% of the time I can just take it out and put it in the trunk. The reason for the sub change is in fact because of a road trip we are going on this summer, and when we get back I will probably run both enclosures in parallel for 1200w from my Hifonics sub amp.

More updates when I can find the charger for my camera.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

A sign of things to come....


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Rear door panel back side, before dynamatting...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

after... this represents a full sheet from a bulk pack. i still want to glue the screws in place so they can't vibrate loose.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

nice... looks like your going to go with pods?
i'm interested to see where/ how you will mount them you will mount them.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

quietfly said:


> nice... looks like your going to go with pods?
> i'm interested to see where/ how you will mount them you will mount them.


They will attatch to/nestle in the sails area, with some extra touches to cut down on early reflections off, for example, the door glass...


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

cool are you going to glass them? i'm currently in the design stage of making pods for L3SE's and ring raditor tweets.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

quietfly said:


> cool are you going to glass them? i'm currently in the design stage of making pods for L3SE's and ring raditor tweets.


I have some ring tweeters on the way as a matter of fact. and yes, the intent is to make fiberglass shells and melt out the styro.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

bum knee has me laid up... but got the tiny vifa rings in the mail... i think i will try them first then the little daytons. or maybe one each side to compare.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

I have had a pair of these sitting in their box on a shelf for over a year... time to install them, i'd say. (Going in rear door with separate eq running 100w per side).


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

This is the "new" front-stage amp... I got this late last year as a factory refurb for what I thought was a too-good-to-pass-up price. Have yet to test it. If it doesn't work, I don't even remember where I got it... Anyway, this should put about 400w on the front stage, if I remember correctly. 2x50 (tweets) + 2x50 (2.5" mids) + 2x100 (6.5" midbasses)...


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

ANy updates?


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## FairLacyZ (Jul 8, 2012)

Some cool stuff going into those pods. Look like snowmen!


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Well I am selling the old front-stage amp. Worked beautifully but now that I am finally replacing it with the 6-channel Soundstream, it is for sale:

Hifonics ZXI40 4 Amp | eBay

I finally figured out how to coat the styro with fibberglass. I ended up stretching fleece over them, and then soaking the fleece with resin. I just started hand sanding them. I think I will sand them a bit and then cover them with speaker grille cloth as a "finish".


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## JimHTP (Nov 12, 2012)

What mids are those? I looked on PE but only saw some paper cone mid/tweets in the buyouts


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Horrorshow?



What you've accomplished so far looks pretty good to me...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JimHTP said:


> What mids are those? I looked on PE but only saw some paper cone mid/tweets in the buyouts


They appear to be the Dayton ND65 2.5" midrange/FR drivers...
Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 290-204




.


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## JimHTP (Nov 12, 2012)

it feels a little insulting when a guy named captain obvious answers your questions lol.

Thanks! If I found a 2 inch mid at a buyout price I'd slap that ***** in my a-pillars and go 3 way front stage in a heartbeat, $20 still isn't bad!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

haha, yeah I hear ya.

There really are some nice ones out there in the $40 and under category. The daytons included...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

captainobvious said:


> They appear to be the Dayton ND65 2.5" midrange/FR drivers...
> Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 290-204
> 
> 
> ...


yup. I picked them because of their relatively smooth response through upper midrange....


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)




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## Datsubishi (Jan 9, 2012)

Lookin great so far. I was expecting something different from a thread with "horrorshow" in the title. I'm thinking of doing some domes in my pillar/sail area as well. Looking forward to updates.


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Datsubishi said:


> Lookin great so far. I was expecting something different from a thread with "horrorshow" in the title. I'm thinking of doing some domes in my pillar/sail area as well. Looking forward to updates.


If you ever see my fat ass sticking out of the trunk while I work on my car,,,, 

_the horror....._

http://youtu.be/aNUr__-VZeQ


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## Datsubishi (Jan 9, 2012)

'Quiver' :wreck:


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

updates?


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

(taps mic) 
(Clears Throat)
" is this thing on?"


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## Deadpool_25 (Apr 2, 2010)

Yeah. What he said.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

i was looking forward to seeing how this turned out


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Between having a bad back and the f*cking ridiculous winter we just had, progress has been slow.... But I'm determined to get this re-done asap... (famous lastish words :/)



Dayton ND65-4 in spherical enclosure - YouTube


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

OMG you came back... i thought the Zombies had got you ....  

good to see you back. hope your Back gets better....


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

So now I got this goin on...












MUST get system back into car this weekend...


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

good to see you back


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

Going with eleven channels active. I may get away with not using the xm6...


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## KtrainHurricane (May 20, 2011)

Can you post a pic / some pics of how (where) you ran your wire to the woofer in the doors? I am doing my 2013 and am having trouble figuring this out...


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

KtrainHurricane said:


> Can you post a pic / some pics of how (where) you ran your wire to the woofer in the doors? I am doing my 2013 and am having trouble figuring this out...


Funny you should ask (now).. I just started back (ow) in on this project. The good news is I've lost 47lbs since I last posted, which is good for the old back (ow). Anyway, I am working on the head unit area (decided to just put the stock HU back in instead of trying to mount the DVD/NAV in the funky double-din adapter I bought (Scosche). The angles were just wrong. So that obstacle gone, I will proceed slowly one little bit at a time. After I finish the HU area I'll move onto the doors (again). I have some old pics of the wire passthrough area but I donno what I did with them.


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## KtrainHurricane (May 20, 2011)

rape_ape said:


> Funny you should ask (now).. I just started back (ow) in on this project. The good news is I've lost 47lbs since I last posted, which is good for the old back (ow). Anyway, I am working on the head unit area (decided to just put the stock HU back in instead of trying to mount the DVD/NAV in the funky double-din adapter I bought (Scosche). The angles were just wrong. So that obstacle gone, I will proceed slowly one little bit at a time. After I finish the HU area I'll move onto the doors (again). I have some old pics of the wire passthrough area but I donno what I did with them.


Awesome, thanks. 

I am doing mine and the pass through for the factory wires has those plugs as opposed to just an open hole...and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get an aftermarket wire through there!


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## rape_ape (Sep 22, 2010)

KtrainHurricane said:


> Awesome, thanks.
> 
> I am doing mine and the pass through for the factory wires has those plugs as opposed to just an open hole...and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get an aftermarket wire through there!


Just got home from church and my back is absolutely killing me (pew! pew! ow!)... had to sit through both services because my kid was guest singing there (it is his choir teacher's church). Also it is pouring down rain like all hell... all signs that i wont be working on the car today. I'll try to find my old pics tho. Gotta be on one of these hard drives around here...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

rape_ape said:


> Just got home from church and my back is absolutely killing me (pew! pew! ow!)... had to sit through both services because my kid was guest singing there (it is his choir teacher's church). Also it is pouring down rain like all hell... all signs that i wont be working on the car today. I'll try to find my old pics tho. Gotta be on one of these hard drives around here...


i wrecked my back a couple of months back lifting something into my car. The only thing i have found to help with the pain after a long day is a product called BioFreeze. Sounds like yours more serious than mine, but it does help mine.


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