# Poll: How Many Watts are You Running?



## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

Title says it all: How many Watts (rms) are you running in your system?

Vote in the poll above!


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Total? Or per channel and after gains are set?


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

currenty

JL 300/2
JL 300/2
JL 300/2
JL 1000/1
Total of 1900 watts


future plan

JL HD600/4
JL HD600/4
JL HD1200/1
Total of 2400 watts


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

Hmm. Valid question. I was thinking Nominal, but Actual might be more appropriate. (Actual = after gains are set)


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

For me, its 
-----------------------------Nominal---------Actual
Zapco ST-4X------------440---------------180
Zapco ST-1500XM---1500--------------700
-----------*Total*------------*1940* Wrms----*880* Wrms

Again, Nominal being their rated Wrms, and Actual being where I'll be running them after gains are set.


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## Alex92 (Mar 27, 2015)

Can't see a poll on the tapatalk app but got a pdx 4.100 and pioneer [email protected] ohm
1000-1200 rms since I tend to dim the rear speakers a bit 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BrainMach1 (Jun 19, 2014)

Old School HiFonics series 8 amps.

Thor in the fronts for 250 watts
Zeus bridged for subs at 900 watts

1150 watts total.


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

My amps are still sitting on the shelf but it will be. 

RMS 
Audison LRx 1.1k 1090W  
Audison LRx 4.1k 2x130 + 2x140 W

Actual is unknown yet.


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## MacLeod (Aug 16, 2009)

Ha I feel so small. 75x4 and 500x1. I'm so ashamed.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

750 W RMS Total:
1 x Alpine PDR-v75
2-ohms all the way around
F/R 100 W RMS x 4 
Sub 350 W RMS x 1


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## toylocost (Jul 4, 2011)

After it's finally installed...
A Pioneer GM-D8604 for tweets and midrange = 400rms
A Pioneer GM-D8604 bridged for midbass ==== 600rms
A Pioneer GM-D9601 @ 1ohm for subs =====1200rms
=============================2200rms total

I have no idea how I'd know how much actual power I will be using, gains will be way down.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

kenwood xr series...

xr-1s - 600w to sub 1
xr-1s - 600w to sub 2
xr-1s - 600w to sub 3
xr-4s - bridged, 300w per side to midbass, 600w total
xr-4s - bridged, 300w per side to mid/tweet, 600w total
xr-5s - 350w to front sub, ch1+2 bridge to center channel 160w, left + right rear, 80w each, total of appx 600w

all said, total of 3600w, but i'll likely only be using 3k or less for normal listening purposes. and who knows, things might even expand in the future!


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## Lou Frasier2 (Jul 17, 2012)

not sure,dont have a way to measure or the know how but im running a ppi p900.4 all 4 channels at 4 ohm and an alpine mrv f300 bridged to 4 ohm mono x2


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## sbeezy (Nov 22, 2008)

ndm said:


> currenty
> 
> JL 300/2
> JL 300/2
> ...


Your future plan is also my Plan! 1 600/4 bridged on the Midbass yess!


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

800 Wrms but I can bump it up to 1100..


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## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

About 10kw right now. Working on more voltage (16v system) and should be closer to 14kw then.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I'm going to be a ******* and say that under normal operating conditions, I'm using somewehre between .01 watts and 1 watt, with transient peaks in the 600W range with limited distortion.


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

fourthmeal said:


> I'm going to be a ******* and say that under normal operating conditions, I'm using somewehre between .01 watts and 1 watt, with transient peaks in the 600W range with limited distortion.


Best answer I've seen so far. Threads like this are useless. At least make the question grammatically correct. This question is the equivalent of asking "how many inches are you" when asking someone for their height. Does the person understand what you are trying to ask? sure! But there is a better way of doing it.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

maggie-g said:


> Best answer I've seen so far. Threads like this are useless. At least make the question grammatically correct. This question is the equivalent of asking "how many inches are you" when asking someone for their height. Does the person understand what you are trying to ask? sure! But there is a better way of doing it.


*What is the maximum average wattage at which thou art capable of utilizing thine automobile-installed, high fidelity, amplified loudspeaker systems to reproduce music?
*

Better? 

Comments like that are useless, because you could just as easily not read the thread and go do something else. 

You knew what I was saying, so there is no reason to be pedantic. At least *fourthmeal* was being witty.


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## mitsukid (Apr 17, 2012)

(2) Brax Matrix MX4 -------------- 1100 each
Arc Audio 4000SE (at 1.5 ohms) -- 3200 

Total -- 5400


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## SQ Audi (Dec 21, 2010)

Focal Solid 4 - 75x4 = 300
Focal Solid 4 - 75x4 = 300
Focal Solid 1 - @ 2ohm - 470
Total = 1070 watts.


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## maggie-g (Aug 20, 2014)

What are you hoping to gain from this thread? How will it benefit the community?

and what is "maximum average wattage"? When you use terms that are incorrect, you are portraying an image of ignorance. Now I'm not saying you are or aren't ignorant. How I would have worded this question is "how much rated continuous power (RMS) are you currently running?" I am also not saying that I am the approver of all audio terms and what not, but it is our job as an audio community to keep a level knowledge field when speaking about terms. Prime example is the term "box". The definition of a box is a 6 sided shape with all 90 degree angles. Most people just use this term to describe all speaker enclosures. Is it correct? Nope. Do people know what you are talking about? sure. Should we accept that as the normal? That is up to the general consensus.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I just wish people in the audio niche (neophytes, experts, all of us) would come to terms with the fact that wattage numbers mean dick all, in the end. 

We've been "broken" by ****loads of marketing, and it has brainwashed us. It is a lot like the horsepower game. Example: My ST has a "measely" 270-ish HP, but it goes like a raped ape because of how it puts the power to the ground (once traction is established, FWD sucks.) When people ask me how much HP I have, I tell them enough and to strap in, we're going for a ride. 

Maximum wattage abilities get tapped (and clipped) extremely rarely, as far as averages go. A drum concussion at a loud base volume may get there, or some sort of heavy synth line, but in general power is the least of our concerns in audio. If you have "enough", you know it. 

With my Flex, I have a 600W sub amp and a 75x4W main amp, the rest is MS-8 power. 

My with ST, I have a 550W sub section, and I think it is 75x4 main (KS900.6, a bit underrated). And then the rest is MS-8 power.


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## jdsoldger (Feb 14, 2012)

Currently,

Daily
Alpine MRX-V60. 60x4 and 200x1 total 440.

Other car:
NVX JAD 800.4 - 125x4 total 500.

Planned:

Daily:
PDX 4.100 - 100x4
PDX 1.1000 - 1000x1
2x Soundstream PN540.4D - 2x200 and 4x100
Total: 2000

Toy Car:
PN540.4D - 2x200
NVX JAD800.4 - 2x400
Total 800


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## ATOMICTECH62 (Jan 24, 2009)

On the bench I total 2720 but in the car my voltage sags so I guestimate about 2300.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

That was more or less exactly what I said. 

Again, you are just being pedantic for the sake of being pedantic.

But to continue on that thread of needless specificity and anal-retentive precision, when referring to average continuous power you should not use "RMS," as the RMS (root mean square) value of a power waveform is pretty meaningless. 

Instead, the average continuous power is derived using the _RMS of the AC voltage_ waveform. 

"RMS Power" has become shorthand for "Average Continuous Power" for audio amplifier usage. And because most people are more familiar with that usage, I continue to use it for the sake of ease of communication.

But if you're going to be an ass about things then yeah, I will call you out on it.

See, when you start getting all fussy like that you come off like someone who really, _really_ wants to show everyone just how smart you think you are. 

Now I'm not saying you are or you aren't.

But what does _that_ add to the discussion?

-----

Now, you asked what I hoped to gain?

Well, I was at my parent's house yesterday. I needed to use my dad's table saw to cut a sheet of plywood for my new amplifier rack. I had the amps out to use to mark the cut lines.

My dad saw them and asked their wattage. I told him, and he asked if that was a lot.

And...I didn't know. It certainly seemed like a lot to me. 

So I posted this poll. Lo and behold, it turns out what I have is actually more of the average here.

So there you go.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

fourthmeal, I would not consider 270HP measly when its in a little hatch like a Focus. Nor would I consider 400HP adequate when the car its running weighs 6000lb.

A lot of power in a low-sensitivity speaker will get about as lot as a little power in a high sensitivity speaker, yadda yadda yes I know.

This wasn't intended to be some sort of dick-waving, "How much can you bench, brah?!" type of thread.

I was just curious about the average. I'm an engineer. I like statistics, and I like data. Sue me. XP


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ajsmcs said:


> That was more or less exactly what I said.
> 
> Again, you are just being pedantic for the sake of being pedantic.
> 
> ...



This instance you cite with your father is a great example of marketing brainwashing. 

I find it interesting that we've focused on that throughout the decades. 

Imagine if marketing gurus instead pushed for the lowest distortion number at a given power factor. You'd have a different conversation, and perhaps one more intelligent with fellow audio hobbyists. Imagine an answer like, ".001% @ 50WRMS from 20Hz-20kHz, all channels driven with an input voltage of 12V." Really rolls off the tongue nicely, huh?

The same thing used to happen in R/C cars, before the advent of brushless motors. The most common question was, "how many turns in that motor?" Really, it is a useless number, as there were so many other things that actually made a difference.

It is a fascinating study in how marketing can screw us up.


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## 1fishman (Dec 22, 2012)

Van #1= 4 Amps with 3000 watts RMS of potential power to the speakers. 
With nomal music it pulls on averages 400 watts, 1000 watts at full tilt.


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## ben54b (May 30, 2014)

I look at these kind of threads as something fun. A lot of us love amplifiers and power ratings and know that we don't actually use anywhere near its total. 
Jl xd 400/4 300wrms total
Ppi 900.4 bridged 900wrms total
Crossfire mono 2ohm 800wrms total

Not one of these would actually be anywhere near that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

Why? Sure its nice to know that your amp has 0.02% distortion at rated output while your buddies will only do a measly 0.03% at the same output. 

But you will NOT be able to hear the difference between the two based on that factor alone. Thats about as useful as your amp claiming to put out 400,000,000 watts. Like Zapco says on their website, its a complete picture. Is that marketing? Yes. But is it also common sense engineering? Again, yes.

That's why I go nitro for my big cars. Sure its slower than the lipo brushless nonsense thats coming out these days, but _my god_ does it look, sound, and smell wonderful doing it.


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## BlackHHR (May 12, 2013)

40% Byron`s
Might break out the Mugen truggy this afternoon.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ajsmcs said:


> Why? Sure its nice to know that your amp has 0.02% distortion at rated output while your buddies will only do a measly 0.03% at the same output.
> 
> But you will NOT be able to hear the difference between the two based on that factor alone. Thats about as useful as your amp claiming to put out 400,000,000 watts. Like Zapco says on their website, its a complete picture. Is that marketing? Yes. But is it also common sense engineering? Again, yes.
> 
> That's why I go nitro for my big cars. Sure its slower than the lipo brushless nonsense thats coming out these days, but _my god_ does it look, sound, and smell wonderful doing it.


So there again, that's a good example you are making. If you have an amp that outputs .02% distortion and one at .03% distortion (Assuming all else equal), then yes, that is inaudible. But so too is a 100W amp and a 150W amp. It is inaudible as well, except at the very limit of the highest transients. Again, a fascinating thing about power factor. 

Now, a 10W amp and a 100W amp, that's audible (assuming all else equal.) It is audible by approximately 10dB and that's twice as loud. But 100W to 150W is likely an inaudible % difference.

But HEADROOM is a really interesting discussion. That's really what we're talking about with power. We could ask, how much headroom is available in the amps you have? At that point we're really getting somewhere.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I agree with fourthmeal on most of this. 

I have 1,300 watts available, but how much am I actually using? I don't ****ing know, nor do I really care. What's the point of me measuring my average power usage? It's going to change with every single song and every single point on the volume knob. There is absolutely no reason for me to know how much I use on average. It doesn't make a difference if my average is 1 watt, 5 watts, or 1k watts. In theory, if I'm listening to music just 3 dB shy of my system's max capabilities I'm still only using 650 watts, but it's all useless as long as I can reach the volume levels I want without reducing the sound quality to below an acceptable level. 

Pedantic? Maybe, but it is almost pointless to talk about how much power you think you're using. Stating how much power is available can be useful for others when choosing equipment, but I don't see any benefit whatsoever in talking about average power usage because, firstly, how do you know? Secondly, what does it tell us?

Not to **** on the poll, because sometimes things like this are simply a matter of curiosity, nothing wrong with being curious. But let's not confuse curiosity with useful.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

That's all it was. A matter of curiosity.


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## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

I have near 10kw available. How much do I use damn near all of it  Im talking almost 10kw clamped :laugh: Why? Cause SPL thats why


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

ajsmcs said:


> That's all it was. A matter of curiosity.


Nothing wrong with that.


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## CDT FAN (Jul 25, 2012)

3000 watts out of my under dash mounted, Chinese made, Albine booster-EQ, because the big red numbers on the case say so. Oh, and it does with 24 just gauge power wires with a 7 amp fuse. :laugh:


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

ajsmcs said:


> That's why I go nitro for my big cars. Sure its slower than the lipo brushless nonsense thats coming out these days, but _my god_ does it look, sound, and smell wonderful doing it.


I know but have you ever noticed how quiet that Lipo is when it's idling


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

And even still, I think "Clean headroom" is more appropriate to what I'm asking. For example, I know what power output I've set my gains to based on the output voltage and average speaker load. Am I using that all the time? Unlikely. 

For example, my woofers are only set at like 20W with a -5dB 1000Hz sine wave at my preferred max listening level on the head unit. (that's going by my old setup. New setup, new amps, it will change.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

YES. What fun is that?

And full disclosure I DO have a brushless lipo car. It's a tiny little Losi Micro SCT, and that sucker is a blast to launch off things. And MAN does it haul.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Zapco Z150.4-LE for tweets and midrange = 150x4rms rated, after checking with an oscope, 210x4 before clipping
Zapco Z150.4-LE bridged for midbass = 500x2rms rated, after checking with an oscope, 650x2rms before clipping
Zapco ZX500.2 for subs, 2000W @ 2 ohm rated, 2250W rms set with an oscope (can be set higher actually)

3600W rms rated, 4390W rms available 

I adjust each channel down as appropriate via an H800...so don't have an exact number, but you can get an idea.


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## aznlunatic (Aug 24, 2009)

1200watts from a Arc Audio XDI 1200.6


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

It's too bad the micro keeps killing servos...my 12-year old TMaxx 2.5 needs a new one too...
**** me and my expensive hobbies.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I had to google brushless lipo Losi Micro SCT ! That's what it is ha ha 

I'm in the 1001-1500 club.
Looks like lots of people in the 1k to 2k club. Nice curve/distribution there.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

(Trying hard to minimize off-topic-ing) They're really fun. And unlike the big RCs, they're really hard to break. Low mass/ high power is a wonderful thing. 

And yeah. It's really Gaussian.


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## Kevmoso (Jun 4, 2013)

Same as everyone.
42


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Currently, I'm just running (4) full-range coaxial speakers powered off a RF PBR300X4. Had a sub, but it's currently out of the car. 

This setup is going to be changing before too long though, as I don't much like the Kicker speakers I'm running. As i approach the upper range of my listening levels the highs tend to get a bit... muffled, muddy, less clear. I blame the PEI semi-dome tweeter, weather or not such is really the case. 

Not too sure what I'll be running in the end. I have 4-channel amps ranging from 50-75RMS per channel @ 4 ohms and have Mono amps ranging from [email protected] ohms to [email protected] ohm and various power ratings between running at 4 ohms or 2 ohms. 

Honestly, I don't need a lot of power, when I set the gain on the PBR300X4, I ended up dialing it back noticeably as it was just too much. And when I set the gains, I used a test tones and my ears, set the gain just under the point where test tone turned from a hum to a buzz, which would have been right around 1%THD, based off my hearing abilities. When I played back music, I was finding the volume to be more than enough fairly early in the dial, like around level 12-14. Gain was set with the HU at level 40, though the preamps seemed to remain clean even at full tilt (wave remained round on the O-Scope at least), but I just couldn't bring myself to set the gains with the HU at such. 

so yeah, my gains weren't exactly set "properly", but distortion free output is what I'm getting with a clean source, so... 

My real issue, tuning. I've got this phobia about boosting frequencies, so I cut more dominate frequencies in an attempt to get the similar effect to what I would boosting weaker areas. 

Surely I'm doing things wrong and my system's lack luster performance is proof. 

I just need to break down and buy an MS-8, well, I need to catch the $130 deal when it comes around, been late every time.

Anyways, power, I'm going to claim I'm in the 501-800RMS range, but I may be up in the 801-1000RMS range in the end. That's capability, not average.


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

JL HD 600/4-----bridge to mid bass
JL HD 600/4-----Mids & tweets
JL HD 1200/1

*currently under construction. 
**no plans on ever changing these out.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

JL HD 1200/1
JL HD 600/4
Focal FPS 4160 
All 4ohms 
= 2200 at 4 ohms ?????


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

SQLnovice said:


> JL HD 600/4-----bridge to mid bass
> JL HD 600/4-----Mids & tweets
> JL HD 1200/1
> 
> ...


The HD amps are very nice!! 
And I use two of them and I love them , but one day you will migrate back to AB ??????


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

oabeieo said:


> JL HD 1200/1
> JL HD 600/4
> Focal FPS 4160
> All 4ohms
> = 2200 at 4 ohms ?????


Soon to go all focal amps , too bad there bass amps are classD 
Damping factor of 7 and that's being conservative Lol


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

I am running 1100 into 5 channels, 800 of which is my sub amp. Gets plenty loud.


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## SoundQ SVT (Aug 14, 2013)

I am in the 201-500 range. Xtant X604 75x4 runs the SQ system. I have a second X604 in the car for the spl subs, but it is never on so I didn't include it in the total.


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

I've been curious about the AB amps. I might give the Zapcos a try some time in the future. Can't think of the exact series, but the ones without the crossovers. 



oabeieo said:


> The HD amps are very nice!!
> And I use two of them and I love them , but one day you will migrate back to AB &#55357;&#56905;&#55357;&#56905;&#55357;&#56860;&#55357;&#56860;&#55357;&#56860;&#55357;&#56860;


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

SQLnovice said:


> I've been curious about the AB amps. I might give the Zapcos a try some time in the future. Can't think of the exact series, but the ones without the crossovers.



LE/LX line do not have crossovers, just straight gain per channel.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

I won't go into the Class AB/Class D debate for the front stage (for what its worth I run AB), but can any of you _really_ tell the difference between a Class AB and Class D *subwoofer* amp, sound-quality wise?

_...he said, lighting a cigarette as he leaned against an open barrel clearly labeled_ GUNPOWDER.

EDIT: IGNORE ME I DIDN'T SAY THAT.


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## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

ajsmcs said:


> I won't go into the Class AB/Class D debate for the front stage (for what its worth I run AB), but can any of you _really_ tell the difference between a Class AB and Class D *subwoofer* amp, sound-quality wise?
> 
> _...he said, lighting a cigarette as he leaned against an open barrel clearly labeled_ GUNPOWDER.


Are you derailing your own threads now? 
I think there are like 50 gajillion AB versus D discussions on here already.
Just saying


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

I am only human, and sometimes my impulsiveness gets the best of me.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Class G/H.


Jus sayin'.


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

Psh. Everyone knows the REAL best car amps are Pure Class A running NOS Soviet-made 6L6 vacuum tubes sourced from abandoned MiG-25 hangers.


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## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

2 x JL Audio HD900/5
1 x JL Audio HD600/4
1 x JL Audio HD1200/1


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. Now here's a man that's serious about his headroom lol.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

No replacement for displacement. About 1000rms from a pair of Italian twins and 1000rms from the brand synonymous with live music


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

Thanks, i'll look into these for my wifes car or for a future build. 




papasin said:


> LE/LX line do not have crossovers, just straight gain per channel.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

ajsmcs said:


> I won't go into the Class AB/Class D debate for the front stage (for what its worth I run AB), but can any of you _really_ tell the difference between a Class AB and Class D *subwoofer* amp, sound-quality wise?
> 
> _...he said, lighting a cigarette as he leaned against an open barrel clearly labeled_ GUNPOWDER.
> 
> EDIT: IGNORE ME I DIDN'T SAY THAT.


Hence I guts went to focal amps and a dam wise decision, the JLHD amps are the only class D amps I have heard that do a very good attempt and they do it well but there is a lot of HF noise but one of the best midbass amps I have used is a HD amp , but class AB always wins over in SQ if it's well built


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

My thoughts are along this line. I might get an AB for my mids and tweets just to experiment and see what happens. I like the 6 channel Zapco. So i might start of with this one day. 




oabeieo said:


> Hence I guts went to focal amps and a dam wise decision, the JLHD amps are the only class D amps I have heard that do a very good attempt and they do it well but there is a lot of HF noise but one of the best midbass amps I have used is a HD amp , but class AB always wins over in SQ if it's well built


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

1800

3 JL 600/4's 

1 bridged to midbass
1 bridged on horns
1 bridged on subs


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

oabeieo said:


> Hence I guts went to focal amps and a dam wise decision, the JLHD amps are the only class D amps I have heard that do a very good attempt and they do it well but there is a lot of HF noise but one of the best midbass amps I have used is a HD amp , but class AB always wins over in SQ if it's well built


And Class A will always win over Class AB with all things being equal..
There just so damn inefficient and run very hot because the output transistors are turned on and stay on until the amp is shut off but that's also why they sound so damn good, because they're always turned on 
PWM will never achieve Class A Sound Quality, everything's a compromise..


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## omnibus (Feb 20, 2015)

75 x 2 up front
600 x 1 on sub
50 x 1 on front sub


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

SQLnovice said:


> My thoughts are along this line. I might get an AB for my mids and tweets just to experiment and see what happens. I like the 6 channel Zapco. So i might start of with this one day.


I love those zapco amps


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

gstokes said:


> And Class A will always win over Class AB with all things being equal..
> There just so damn inefficient and run very hot because the output transistors are turned on and stay on until the amp is shut off but that's also why they sound so damn good, because they're always turned on
> PWM will never achieve Class A Sound Quality, everything's a compromise..


Well besides switching noise with ab witch I don't know how to hear in a car environment with road noise I agree


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Rated 850W total

Potential 1150-1200W


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## danno14 (Sep 1, 2009)

Mosconi cabinet
Top shelf- 2200w + 1040w
second shelf- 200w+ 200w+ 1040w+ 540w
Third shelf- 400w+ 400w+ 400w+ 600w+ 600w

Cars> sucky stock system still


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

AMP NOMINAL ACTUAL

PDX F4 120 / ch 80 × 2 ch

PDX F6 163 / ch 120 x 2 ch (for now, once I get 8's they will be bridged)

PDX M12 1363 Wrms 800 Wrms

PDX M12 1326 Wrms 800 Wrms


Total 3255 Wrms 2000 Wrms


* Nominal based off actual birth sheets (off memory but should be fairly close)
** Actual is estimated but once again fairly close
*** Nominal accounts for only 2 ch worth of utilization for the f4 and f6


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nominal rated power at 12V

Brax x2000 - 2 x 190Wrms @ 4 ohms
Brax x2400 - 4 x 110Wrms @ 4 ohms
JBL/Crown BPX 2200.1 - 1 x [email protected] 4 ohms


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## ajsmcs (Jan 26, 2015)

oabeieo said:


> Well besides switching noise with ab witch I don't know how to hear in a car environment with road noise I agree


Not sure I'd call it _noise_ per se, since its really just a different form of distortion. (Sorry being pedantic...)

Story Time:
I've got a really neat guitar amp (Fender Prosonic) at home that has a switchable rectifier/power amp bias scheme, similar to the Mesa/Boogies.

You can switch between true Class A cathode-bias/tube rectification, Class AB/tube rec, and Class AB/solid state rec.

Its cool being able to- no pun intended- A-B the two types of power amp and see the difference it makes to the sound with all other factors being equal.

Generally I stick to class AB since its easier on the tubes. 

Now, back to your regularly scheduled content!


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

SQLnovice said:


> My thoughts are along this line. I might get an AB for my mids and tweets just to experiment and see what happens. I like the 6 channel Zapco. So i might start of with this one day.


If you're still running the MS amps I'm not sure how they compare to the first generation Alpine pdx amps but going from 200rms bridged from the pdx5 to just 75rms give or take a little at 8 ohms on my midbass made a huge difference. Clarity and dynamics were better with the Mosconi and 1/3 the power. Midbass was much better. Flat out more life to the sound. Now I have around 240rms of Italian goodness to each midbass and it's a horse of a different color.


----------



## iamstubb (Sep 6, 2013)

75W RMS x 6 + 500W RMS x 1= 950W RMS. Theoretical Max 1974W. But I doubt I ever use anything near those numbers.


----------



## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

The JBL MS amps are in storage. I currently have 2 JL HD 600/4 for my 3-way front stage. Rebuilding my system, but it's a slow process. I want to sell those MS amps to buy some other gears, but I cannot bring myself to part with them. 



Hillbilly SQ said:


> If you're still running the MS amps I'm not sure how they compare to the first generation Alpine pdx amps but going from 200rms bridged from the pdx5 to just 75rms give or take a little at 8 ohms on my midbass made a huge difference. Clarity and dynamics were better with the Mosconi and 1/3 the power. Midbass was much better. Flat out more life to the sound. Now I have around 240rms of Italian goodness to each midbass and it's a horse of a different color.


----------



## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

ARC SE 2300 2x330 @ 6ohms it's probably 2x250
ARC SE 4200 bridged 2x400 @ 4ohms
ARC KS1200.1 1x1200 @ 2ohms


----------



## rideon22 (Dec 4, 2011)

Phoenix gold elite .5 and .2, roughly 1700 conservative


----------



## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

Alpine PDX-V9 x 2 + Alpine PDX-M12 = 3000w rated, but birth sheets are over that...


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

fourthmeal said:


> I'm going to be a ******* and say that under normal operating conditions, I'm using somewehre between .01 watts and 1 watt, with transient peaks in the 600W range with limited distortion.





maggie-g said:


> Best answer I've seen so far. Threads like this are useless. At least make the question grammatically correct. This question is the equivalent of asking "how many inches are you" when asking someone for their height. Does the person understand what you are trying to ask? sure! But there is a better way of doing it.





fourthmeal said:


> I just wish people in the audio niche (neophytes, experts, all of us) would come to terms with the fact that wattage numbers mean dick all, in the end.
> 
> We've been "broken" by ****loads of marketing, and it has brainwashed us. It is a lot like the horsepower game. Example: My ST has a "measely" 270-ish HP, but it goes like a raped ape because of how it puts the power to the ground (once traction is established, FWD sucks.) When people ask me how much HP I have, I tell them enough and to strap in, we're going for a ride.
> 
> ...


 You praying to the choir dude, since majority here leaded to believe all amps sound the same they will be selecting amps based on their paper performance anyway, we seeing that for the best part of last 20 years of that industry.
Consumers are easy to manipulate into pretty much anything- mediocre engineering and manufacturing as soon as you shown 5000W ******** label for 50 bucks delivered and pseudo scientific "research telling you that watt is a watt and it`s all the same. Easy to demonstrate label meaning easy to sell.
10KW in the car? I can only imagine poot brain matter of that guy resonating violently inside of his skull. constant concussions at whatever noise frequency he is playing. No wonder he lost his capacity to think not long after his hearing loss. 
I love loud music, I spent my younger years at life performances, I might too have some degree of hearing loss. If 100W/ch not making a job done with most inefficient speakers you could find you doing something wrong.


----------



## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

> .. It is a lot like the horsepower game. Example: My ST has a "measly" 270-ish HP, but it goes like a raped ape because of how it puts the power to the ground (once traction is established, FWD sucks.) When people ask me how much HP I have, I tell them enough and to strap in, we're going for a ride.


It's all about the Power/Weight Ratio


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

gstokes said:


> It's all about the Power/Weight Ratio


Correct, reason why motorcycles faster than cars.


----------



## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

The op asked a simple question. Most people (myself included) only go by what the manufacture list. Some of us get birthsheets and can accurately list the wattage. 

Can someone just answer without going into full on scientist mode and shoot down everyone that doesn't answer with the actual information. 

All of you with the knowledge should share it rather than belittle those that are not as technically aware. Maybe a thread could be created that explains what the amps are really doing.

I for one am thankful for the information that the more knowledgeable individuals give and glad that they are here to debunk any misinformation.


----------



## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

Approximately 1600: 400 to Mids/Highs and 1200 to Subs




palldat said:


> Maybe a thread could be created that explains what the amps are really doing


This should get anyone interested in learning about amps well on their way.

Amplifier

Car Audio Amplifiers


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

palldat said:


> The op asked a simple question. Most people (myself included) only go by what the manufacture list. Some of us get birthsheets and can accurately list the wattage.
> 
> Can someone just answer without going into full on scientist mode and shoot down everyone that doesn't answer with the actual information.
> 
> ...


117 members did just that, listed their numbers or rather numbers they believe they have. no reason to complain for a little reality check.


----------



## palldat (Feb 6, 2011)

Victor_inox said:


> You praying to the choir dude, since majority here leaded to believe all amps sound the same they will be selecting amps based on their paper performance anyway, we seeing that for the best part of last 20 years of that industry.
> Consumers are easy to manipulate into pretty much anything- mediocre engineering and manufacturing as soon as you shown 5000W ******** label for 50 bucks delivered and pseudo scientific "research telling you that watt is a watt and it`s all the same. Easy to demonstrate label meaning easy to sell.
> 10KW in the car? I can only imagine poot brain matter of that guy resonating violently inside of his skull. constant concussions at whatever noise frequency he is playing. No wonder he lost his capacity to think not long after his hearing loss.
> I love loud music, I spent my younger years at life performances, I might too have some degree of hearing loss. If 100W/ch not making a job done with most inefficient speakers you could find you doing something wrong.


....and we all thank you for that. I for one have looked at all of your post and see that you have plenty of knowledge in this field.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

According to specs:

50x4, 100x2 and 360x1 

But probably more like 25x2, 50x2, 100x2 and 360x1 since I'm running 8 ohm mids.

It gets plenty loud.

All amps don't sound the same.

Jay


----------



## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> All amps don't sound the same.
> 
> 
> 
> Jay



Wrong thread! Lol


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> According to specs:
> 
> 50x4, 100x2 and 360x1
> 
> ...





papasin said:


> Wrong thread! Lol


 Such fine statement fits here just fine...:laugh::laugh:


----------



## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

JayinMI said:


> All amps don't sound the same.


Oh hell, there goes the neighborhood


----------



## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Use to run a pg xs4600. Rated at 25 rms x4, yet would pull 80amp peaks at 12 volts running class A/B. Seemed adequate at the time.

Current Soundstream system is 106 rms x4 ab plus 1x600 rms d. I see around 80 amps max.

One of the vendors is either understating or overstating figures.

Normally I'm running 1-10 watts on mids and probably 20 watts on bass.


----------



## weshole (Jan 4, 2010)

Zapco Z150.4
Zapco Z2KD
2600 WRMS


----------



## XSIV SPL (Jun 24, 2014)

Currently, as wired, just bumping up against 4000 watts...


----------



## stevemk07 (Jan 3, 2012)

950 Watts Total RMS.... gains on fronts quite low however so maybe 600 Watts total.

I cannot be sure but I would wager that I would win the championship of my side of the street.


----------



## cyantist (Mar 18, 2015)

Hertz HDP4 - Mids and Tweets
Hertz HDP4 - Midbass (bridged)
Hertz HDP1 - Subs

Rated just shy of 3000w, but I'm sure I'm not using anything close to their rated power. Plenty of headroom though, you know, for those transient peaks...


----------



## rxonmymind (Sep 7, 2010)

2 JL audio Nex D amps @ 600 each. 1200.


----------



## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

DD M1c. I've seen anywhere from 1500-2000 clamped
DD SS4A. 160x4

Not using much at all, maybe half


----------



## XSIV SPL (Jun 24, 2014)

It's kind of fascinating to look at the voting graphic and to see that it has a near perfect bell-curve distribution centered in the range of 1000-2000 watts. Statistics are amazing


----------



## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

XSIV SPL said:


> It's kind of fascinating to look at the voting graphic and to see that it has a near perfect bell-curve distribution centered in the range of 1000-2000 watts. Statistics are amazing


 people like round numbers nothing more.
1000Watt looks much better then say 700W but nobody will ever tell you the difference. as SPL level will be in 1DB range. Then 2000 W sounds better then 1500 with same 1Db difference. That if drivers/box allows that. rarely a little more in special cases. Bass heads fascinating


----------



## mmnjtwa (Apr 6, 2015)

JL 300/3 on mid bass
JL 300/4 on tweeters (soon to be rear stage)
JL 500/1 on sub

Was looking to go to 2 x HD600/4 and 750/1, but all this AB vs D talk is keeping me from pulling the trigger. I suppose I'll go check out some of the numerous threads on this subject so I can make this decision soon.


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

1001-1500


----------



## Cochese (May 24, 2008)

In the Explorer, about 400 watts from a Genesis Profile Four Ultra running TBI HDSS tweeters with CSS SDX7 mids. In the GTO, just the Alpine amp, should be good for about 125x4 + 450x1 @ 4 ohms. 

I used to run 7kw RMS in the Exploder, it was pretty loud. I may try and put another pair of 18s in there, but something a little more efficient, maybe 3-4k total.


----------



## oscardillo (Nov 16, 2010)

2 genesis miniblock for woofers (1 X 125 rms)
1 genesis clase a for tweeters ( 2 X 100 rms)
1 genesis dual mono extreme for subwoofer (1 X 750 rms)


----------



## Kriszilla (Jul 1, 2013)

Right now I'm using 3 x PPI 900.4's and 1 PPI P1000.1 until I can save enough to go back to two PDX-V9's and a PDX-M12.


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

my proposed system is around 4k rms but that's purely for headroom and I doubt I'd use more than 2k rms of it regularly


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Victor_inox said:


> Correct, reason why motorcycles faster than cars.


Not all of them...


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Before I sold my amps:
2x JL HD 600/4 - One bridged to the midbass, one on the mids+tweeters.
1x JL HD 750/1 - Powering both IB15s

That was my original "SQ" setup.

When I went to the IDMax 15s still IB I realized the 750/1 was nowhere nearly enough. First I went with a 1200/1 which brought output back up to the IB15s on the 750/1. Then a pair of 1200/1s.

2x JL HD 600/4
2x JL HD 1200/1

At it's weakest: 1950w
At it's strongest: 3,600w

I'm starting a new system. Just bought a pair of Alpine M65 amps because the price was too good to pass up. These seem to do consistently 800w in testing.

Front will be Arc with about 1200w again. So a rough estimate:

1200w fronts
1600w subs
2800w total

Looks like it will be very average according to the poll results.

I hardly ever use much power, I think the one time it was measured with the IB15s still in there I was pulling less than 50w total when I thought it was decently loud, loud enough that it was hard to have a conversation. The rest of the power is largely unused 99% of the time but it's there for transients when I feel like cranking it.


----------



## NealfromNZ (Sep 3, 2013)

Are there "cheater" amps still been made for competition Classes that grossly understate power ?

I remember some soundstream amp that was rated at 12.5 watts rms at 12.5 volts into 4 ohms. The reality was more like 500rms into .5 ohms at 13.8. I brought a pg amp that would fit the the sub 100rms class way back which was probably closer to 300 -400 with the engine running.


----------



## XSIV SPL (Jun 24, 2014)

HOW MANY WATTS ARE YOU RUNNING?

Wasn't this the topic?


----------



## Jesus Christ (Aug 3, 2010)

1200


----------



## #1BigMike (Aug 17, 2014)

XSIV SPL said:


> HOW MANY WATTS ARE YOU RUNNING?
> 
> Wasn't this the topic?


I believe so?. Is it to late to get back on topic?


----------



## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

WOW, this thread has gotten WAY off topic. 

Anyways, I've gone down in the power I'm pushing since I first replied to this thread... I think. 

I'm now running around 500RMS when running full tilt. Rockford PBR300X4 and Kicker ZR120 running at 2.6 ohms.


----------



## 63flip (Oct 16, 2013)

Just over 500 watts in my '99 Ranger

JL Audio Slash 250/1v2 powering an 8w7ae
JL Audio Slash 300/4v2 powering Kenwood Excelon 6x8's in stock locations


----------



## mmnjtwa (Apr 6, 2015)

63flip said:


> Just over 500 watts in my '99 Ranger
> 
> JL Audio Slash 250/1v2 powering an 8w7ae
> JL Audio Slash 300/4v2 powering Kenwood Excelon 6x8's in stock locations


How many miles on your Ranger? I have a '99 regular cab Sport with the 4cyl engine, manual trans, and no power windows or locks as my daily. Has 245k miles and still going. I love it. About to throw an old RF Punch45 on a pieced together 5.25" 2way component set, running passive with an old ass Clarion HU.


----------



## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

JL Audio xd800/8 
Bridged 200wrms to dayton ref 4" paper cones 
200wrms to 7" scanspeak discovery mids in doors

US Amps MD3D 
1000wrms to a single Image Dynamics ID15 IB at 4ohm. Soon to be 2000wrms to two Image Dynamics ID15s IB.


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

beerdrnkr said:


> JL Audio xd800/8
> Bridged 200wrms to dayton ref 4" paper cones
> 200wrms to 7" scanspeak discovery mids in doors
> 
> ...


How are you running 2-3x their thermal rating on a sub that's fairly efficient with only 14mm xmax while infinite baffle? Are you running a 40hz highpass? My ID Max 15s aren't as efficient and 1,000w gets them moving waaaay past 14mm one way at 30hz. Just curious how it's working.


----------



## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

BuickGN said:


> How are you running 2-3x their thermal rating on a sub that's fairly efficient with only 14mm xmax while infinite baffle? Are you running a 40hz highpass? My ID Max 15s aren't as efficient and 1,000w gets them moving waaaay past 14mm one way at 30hz. Just curious how it's working.


It's working with the gain and sub levels waaaay down. Lol. I had the single 15 moving a little too much when I first fired it up in the IB install.


----------



## Alias essSQuee (Dec 22, 2009)

As of now, I just installed the following:

JL Audio HD600/4 - Mids and Tweets = 600 watts
JL Audio HD600/4 - Bridged to Midbasses = 600 watts
JL Audio HD1200/1 - To subs in trunk = 1200 watts

So, 2400-watts.

I'm not using even 50% of this total wattage in all reality. I bought this setup to have dynamic headroom and clean power on my peaks when I "rock out" with the system.

I'm having a heck of a time dialing in this setup with the MS-8. I'm thinking it may take me MONTHS to get the final sound I'm after with lots of trial and error and evaluation.


----------



## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

This is not OT so stay on topic.

Victor....stop being an ass.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## xxx_busa (May 4, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> Not all of them...


All of mine have been.......


----------



## Burksdb (Apr 28, 2011)

wish i knew what the Zuki Spl 5 channel puts out 

but at it's "rating":

4x5 watts - Hertz HSK 165's
1x10 watts - 8W7AE


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

xxx_busa said:


> All of mine have been.......


All of your what have been what? What are we talking about?

Edit: I had to go back and look at where the quote came from. Of course all of your bikes have been quicker than your cars. You own an Acura TL.


----------



## skyven (Jul 25, 2012)

Mine
2way 2xzapco 150.2le =2x300 @4ohm = 600
Mono abyss ct2000 1500 @2ohm = 1500
Total 2100


----------



## Detune (Jun 3, 2008)

2x50 and 1x200, PPI PC4400C. Rocks my civic, PPI P.65C3's up front, JL dual 10W0 box in rear.


----------



## omnibus (Feb 20, 2015)

I recently went down in power. Down to just 1 amp, the JL XD 500/3. 
75 x 2 fronts
300 sub


----------



## Amorel (Oct 22, 2014)

PDX-V9


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

However many it takes to get a ~90db tweeter and 87DB woofer at 100DB. 

RMS is pretty meaningless. No one uses that much power at normal listening conditions unless you have HUGE subs that are terribly inefficient.

Figured I'd edits...I don't do competition stuff. My stereo on the loudest source can pull around 105 because I have everything set that way. I will turn it up if I allow for more


----------



## drop1 (Jul 26, 2015)

Bout 400 actual watts on music. Little less probably. AmPs add up to 550 but the reality is I'm using far less than that. Most of you guys probably aren't using near rated power of your amps. Some of you probably are


----------



## Reerun_KC (Jul 8, 2015)

Arc Audio 1100.1, 1200.6 and 600.4 = 2900 watts.


----------



## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

^ what's your power to speaker configuration? Sounds like a powerful set up.


----------



## Reerun_KC (Jul 8, 2015)

Bluenote said:


> ^ what's your power to speaker configuration? Sounds like a powerful set up.


Arc Audio 1200.6 running focal PS 165 f3 active. 
Arc Audio 600.4 running focal PS 130 active
Arc audio 1100.1 running 2 Memphis m class 12s at 1 ohm

I went full stupid.


----------



## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

I like that!


----------



## audiobaun (Jun 8, 2011)

4- American bass vfl hybrid [email protected] ohm ea.
2- zed micro [email protected] ea.
2- Autotek bts [email protected] 2 ohms ea.
Voltage @[email protected]


----------



## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

The potential is there for 90 x 4 @ 4 ohm and 560 x 1 @ 2 ohm..
Active 2-way plus sub and plenty loud..


----------



## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

Right now? BMW claims 600 but I'm sure that's max. I'd guess 200ish.

But when I get the car done in a couple weeks it'll be
1200.6 @ 150x4 + 600x1 = 1200
600.4 @ 300x2 = 600
for 1800W RMS.
Should be adequate...


----------



## Nismo (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm in the 3001-5000 category, 390 amps of fusing (needed), with 200 amp breaker and 1/0. With that said, I am currently on a stock alt, sub amp isn't in the car yet (1400 watts), the midbasses are in my garage, and I'm running a passive crossover and a pair of 4" components up front, and the factory 2 ohm 6x9's in the rear.

Were I maxing out the one amp that is currently in use (at full output), I've got about 500 watts RMS.

When I'm done, I will have 40 watts x 4 (highs/midrange), 300 x 2 for a quartet of midbasses, 85 x 2 for rear speakers, and 1400 for sub if needed...likely maxing out around half that. I'll have 2 channels left over unused, at 85 watts each.

Eric


----------



## Greyhound (Jun 15, 2013)

1.21 Gigawatts


----------



## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Added up they "say" 1950...rated at about 1300.


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

txwrxwagon2 said:


> I'm an old-shcool A/B and/or Zed kinda guy.. Have a treasure trove of Zed amps I've been collecting.
> 
> Currently on the bench for the WRX Wagon:
> 
> ...


So in a car with rears and no tuning you can hear the difference between A/B and D?


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

txwrxwagon2 said:


> casual observation: Funny (ironic not ha-ha) that you hadn't posted jack squat in this thread until you decided to unleash on me...
> 
> ~Rob


I asked nicely, even added a smile. You're the one unloading. 

And as far as your credentials go, isn't NACA from the time period with limited to 0 dsp, where putting speakers in kicks was a cool way to TA for a 2 seat experience, cars were largely judged on quality of install, where noisy analog eq's were used to flatten response.....I can go on. 

So Rob, stop venting, grow up and your attempt at being a bellicose bully is laughable.


----------



## 58458 (Apr 30, 2012)

I have no clue how much power I'm running but hot damn it sounds good. All ppi m series, you know the ones before the arts. Except on sub duty that's a helix sku. 
But my tweeters are ran on a black 2150m 150x2, mids are on my favorite amp of my collection my 2200m 200x2, my mid basses are powered off of a 2300m 300x2. And sub duty is a helix spxl1000 doing [email protected] on my sub. And it has no problem playing volume maxed and rocking out to some Iron maiden, megadeth, pantera, slayer, or switching it up and throwing on some Brad paisley, Vince gill, ect. 
And I love my surf boards! Looking switch it up and run 2 more 2300ms and have way more than an enough.


----------



## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

reath1 said:


> Added up they "say" 1950...rated at about 1300.


Nice old school gear


----------



## troj4nm4n (Apr 23, 2011)

80 watts between 2 amps. prob 300-450 actual


----------



## allnpt0 (Feb 10, 2009)

Luxman CM-4050 50x4 and Mcintosh MC-443 300x1 = 500 watts


----------



## Tenacious (Jan 18, 2013)

My personal build is in SPL competition mode right now in the 10k+ category 

I plan on getting a car in the future to drive daily which will be more SQ oriented. But still loud as I'm spoiled by my current setup.


----------



## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

reath1 said:


> Added up they "say" 1950...rated at about 1300.


I about creamed my pants , I loved those amps so much! I remember looking at CA&E when those were new. I always wanted a set. I eventually got a mosfet 1000. I was stoked


----------



## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

Rockford Fosgate Power Series
T400-4 (79 x 4)
T800-4ad (187 x 4)
T1000-1bdCP (1562 x 1)

2,626 watts RMS. I'm running them on the more conservative side though, & not all channels at times.


----------



## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

1996blackmax said:


> Rockford Fosgate Power Series
> T400-4 (79 x 4)
> T800-4ad (187 x 4)
> T1000-1bdCP (1562 x 1)
> ...


Sorry but you hit my pet peeve. 
That's dynamic power not RMS. 
Dynamic can be dirty and always higher than a clean signal. The dirtier it is the higher the dynamic power will be to a point. Normally 20% more than it does certified clean.


----------



## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

Pet peeve or not....RMS is what the sheets say. Actually, the total RMS power was higher.


As long as I'm getting the power that I paid for, that's all that matters. I'm well aware of what power specs mean.


----------



## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

They call dynamic power RMS. They call it a dynamic cube or something. Very misleading. If you feel you paid for what it says on the amp than you are good. 

Rockford is so misleading.


----------



## jcmusika (Aug 14, 2015)

PPI1000.4 = 80 X 4
Pio 5602 = 450 x 1

RmsTotal- 770


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Pioneer GM-D9605. 650 watts total at 4ohms


----------



## ssclassa60 (Jan 28, 2013)

gstokes said:


> And Class A will always win over Class AB with all things being equal..
> 
> There just so damn inefficient and run very hot because the output transistors are turned on and stay on until the amp is shut off but that's also why they sound so damn good, because they're always turned on
> 
> PWM will never achieve Class A Sound Quality, everything's a compromise..




I love this quote!

Not quite finished but:

Adcom 4404 - 160 x 2 on subs (SS 10R)
Soundstream Picasso - 100 x 2 (HAT L6v1)
Soundstream Picasso - 25 x 4 (BG Neo 8 + Infinity S-Emit)

I've yet to hear anything that rivals high bias "Class A" power. Put fans on everything and you're good to go


----------



## WestCo (Aug 19, 2012)

modded c2k 4.0 400w
c2k 6.0 bridged 600w


----------



## Valdemar (Aug 19, 2014)

2 JL HD 900/5 - 1800 Wrms
GZHA 1.1800 - 1800 Wrms

3600 Wrms on tap. I don't think I will ever use this much for normal listening, but having more on demand is very fun on the highway for when I don't care if I go deaf

I don't have a nominal approximation


----------



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Down to 600W factory stereo now. No bass


----------



## carlos3621 (Aug 24, 2015)

Sinfoni 120X4 @ 4ohms = 580 watts
JL audio 1200/V3 = 1200 watts

so total 1780 watts rms.


----------



## RaceShowDrive (Sep 21, 2009)

4180 Total available. 

2 PPI Phantom P1000.1 1000 x 1 each
2 PPI Phantom P900.4 450 x 2 each
1 PPI Phantom P600.2 190 x 2


----------



## CoLd_FuSiOn (Jun 25, 2012)

Phoenix Gold Xenon 1200.1 - Subwoofer (1200 wrms)
Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.4- Midbasses (200 wrms bridged x 2)
Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.4 Mids and Tweeters(100 wrms x 4)

Total:
1800 wrms


----------



## High Resolution Audio (Sep 12, 2014)

Soundstream Class A 100 II for each tweeter 200
Boston Acoustics GT28 250 watts channel mids 500
PPI 300/2 on mid-bass 600
JL 600/1 for each sub 1200

total 2500

Was toying with the idea of using 1000/1 
on each mid-bass. I own one....Will test and see.


----------



## Waves4dayz (Dec 13, 2015)

ndm said:


> future plan
> 
> JL HD600/4
> JL HD600/4
> ...


Your future plan is what's being installed as I type....

When I look at the total..... I swear I went overboard ?


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## tru tech99 (Jan 3, 2011)

don't even know man ..... running active 

zapco ZX-200x4 mid/high
zapco z150x2 Rear fill
JL 500/1 Bass 

900 watts total.....


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

2 Pioneer PRS800D 600w
JBL MS1004 400w
JBL MS5001 500w


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

2100wrms build starting in the next couple weeks.

Front stage:
Mosconi AS 200.4 200x2 @ 4 + 100x2 @ 8
Mosconi AS 200.2 200x2 @ 4

Sub:
Mosconi AS 300.2 1100x1 @ 4


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

9600 watts. 8x JL hd1200/1s. One to each driver in my 2way front setup with rear fill and dual subs.


Sent from my mind using telekinesis


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> 9600 watts. 8x JL hd1200/1s. One to each driver in my 2way front setup with rear fill and dual subs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my mind using telekinesis


Damn son, if yer dsp farts yer gonna have voicecoils in yer lap!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

claydo said:


> Damn son, if yer dsp farts yer gonna have voicecoils in yer lap!


i think hes kidding.. dont the 1200/1's not play full range?


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

claydo said:


> Damn son, if yer dsp farts yer gonna have voicecoils in yer lap!



LOL! One false move and all speakers would be blown. Would be like the giant speaker Marty blows in Back To The Future.



SkizeR said:


> i think hes kidding.. dont the 1200/1's not play full range?



This^. Iirc, the 1200/1 is only good to about 250hz. 
I was just trolling to see if anyone actually gives a crap about how many watts people are running before I unsubscribed from this pointless thread. 


Sent from my mind using telekinesis


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Golden Ear said:


> LOL! One false move and all speakers would be blown. Would be like the giant speaker Marty blows in Back To The Future.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


just checked. theyre good up to 8khz. brb, going to get 4. one on each midbass and midrange


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

SkizeR said:


> just checked. theyre good up to 8khz. brb, going to get 4. one on each midbass and midrange



LOL


Sent from my mind using telekinesis


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Lmao, good one golden ear. I didn't know the response off hand, but I seem to remember the 750/1 was full range.....so I figured why not.


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## DDfusion (Apr 23, 2015)

They where full range at the start but JL went back and changed it


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## 58458 (Apr 30, 2012)

Well the new build begins! 
JL audio
2 450/4v2 one for left & right 300 watts to each midbass, 150 to each mid.
1 300/2v2 150 watts to each tweeter
1 1000/2v2 1000 watts to 2 8w7 subs in a t-line 
Front stage is in the air

Between dyn esotars and focal be no7


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## dugjt88 (Dec 7, 2012)

Hifonics XXMaxximus on sub
Audio System x165.4 up front
PPI 2050M Or Planet Audio P704 (Zed amp) for rear fill


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## jb4674 (Jan 29, 2015)

3 JL Audio Slash v1 Amps:

500/1 powering my 10W7 sub
300/2 powering a pair of 6.5's MB Quart QWD160s on front doors @ 150w
300/4 powering a pair of 6.5" MB Quart QM160.03KX coax components on rear deck off two channels @ 75w and a pair of Hertz ML28.3 tweeters off the other two channels @ 75w


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

As of tonight, 2900 watts.

1 JL Audio 450/4v2 in mono running the front left midbass and midrange. (300w + 150w)
1 JL Audio 450/4v2 in mono running the front right midbass and midrange. (300w + 150W)
1 JL Audio 450/4v2 in stereo running the rear fill @ 150w x 2 (L&R) and the front tweeters at 75w x 2 (L&R)
2 JL Audio 1000/1v2 amps. One for each JL-12W7 sub


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## lurch (Jan 20, 2014)

@extendedpower

did you use the zr800's ?
im interested in buying a pair myself but cost is mighty high here in 
canada.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Went from an Arc Audio 1200.6 and 1100.1 to (2) Alpine PDX-V9 and Arc Audio 1100.1 (soon to be Alpine PDX-M12).

200wrms to each midrange
200wrms to each tweeter
500wrms to each midbass
550wrms to each 10" sub

Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

lurch said:


> @extendedpower
> 
> did you use the zr800's ?
> im interested in buying a pair myself but cost is mighty high here in
> canada.


PM'd


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## 58458 (Apr 30, 2012)

My SPL ride is a 1992 Chevy Astro Van, 12 Ascendant Audio Team 18s, 2 dd audio sl712s as mid basses 4 focal krx2 6 1/2s as mids and 2 sets of dd audio at28 tweeters.
amplifiers are 6 DD audio M4A amps for the subs, 2 arc audio ks1200.1s 1 per sl712,
1 ks600.2 for the mids and a 300.2 for the tweets.. 
dont have a clue what the power is but you can definitely feel a kick drum!


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## jamesjones (Mar 8, 2007)

Not actually in the truck yet but I have...

PG Ti2 1000.4 running M25 tweets and ID X-69 mids.
PG Ti2 2000.1 running two Tidal Audio 12s until they die.


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## ibzfilez (Jun 5, 2016)

80 each to the elate midbass and tweeter and 600 to a morel ultimo


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## --Kei-- (Sep 8, 2011)

Old system was 380W total rms. Nice and balanced capable of being loud enough that I had no complaints. 
Alpine 3566 - 30Wx4 mids/tweets & 160W sub
Alpine 3553 bridged 50Wx2 midbass (8 ohms)

New setup as the old 3566 needs repairs, 770W total rms.
Alpine 3553 35Wx4 mids/tweets
Alpine MRV-F400 90Wx2 midbass
Alpine MRV-1000 450W sub


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## jb_widya (May 15, 2016)

Luxman CM-4050 -- 200
Luxman CM-2100 -- 200
Harmotech T1 -- 400
Total 800 w


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> As of tonight, 2900 watts.
> 
> 1 JL Audio 450/4v2 in mono running the front left midbass and midrange. (300w + 150w)
> 1 JL Audio 450/4v2 in mono running the front right midbass and midrange. (300w + 150W)
> ...


I can sure add....

Should be 3350 watts total.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

With the amp swap I'm only running 650rms. As long as the amp is a quality amp I no longer think you need big power to run a system. My system is loud, clean, and dynamic.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Mosconi Zero 4 and Mosconi Zero 1 enough said 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


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## juventus (Feb 6, 2016)

Will be running soon:

4x85
2x220
1x440


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## OldNewb (Sep 30, 2016)

Have 4600, use 2600
4 crescendo encore 2 channels.


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## juventus (Feb 6, 2016)

juventus said:


> Will be running soon:
> 
> 4x85
> 2x220
> 1x440


DLS CC-44
DLS CC-44 (bridged)
DLS CC-1000


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## jijivs (Mar 26, 2016)

Claiming for the modest power  it's 4x65 + 240 watts ( Zapco 5 channel) in my Suzuki S Cross. 

Drive safe,
JVS


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