# ehiunno's 1977 Mercedes 300D deadening and install log



## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

The massive Vertex Mobile Sound Products "spring cleaning/FoxPro5 is sick of dealing with DIYMA" sale prompted me to get started on doing serious sound deadening in my old Benz. The car is a Diesel which suffers from serious noise issues, so I've got the following to get started:

3 boxes of Vertex Barrier Pad
1 sheet of ultrastage matt
75 sq feet of eDead v1SE
1 gallon of eDead v3
a bunch of leftover ensolite from a trunk install

I know a lot of people are going to get on me for using eDead stuff. Believe me, I have done my homework about the different products, and read all of the threads about its functionality. In the end it did exactly what I needed it to and I got what I expected as a result.

So lets get to pictures 

Here is me and the car:








Ok yeah, I look like I am 12 in that picture. But I promise you I am not, I am just a skinny college kid looking to get a quieter car .

This is everything but the front seats and dash out:









First thing I did was all the doors. One layer of matt on the inside and one on the outside. This is going to be followed up with a layer of VBP once I get the firewall done. There was some layer of some kind of deadener on the outside skin before I started. I really have no idea what it was made of but I certainly couldn't get it off. Regardless, after deadening the panels dont ring at all...









And the inner skin of the same door done:









... but the window tracks are suspended in the door just kind of hanging there, and guess what they are made of. Now I have a nice quiet tuning fork on the inside of each of my doors. The VBP should block that .

On the rear deck I covered everything I could get to in V1SE but there was some stuff I couldn't get to that was still ringing. In comes Great Stuff. I'll need a little more before its done, but that has helped a lot so far










And the dash taken apart:









The goal here is to get VBP as high on the firewall as possible, and then as much as possible behind the blower/vacuum system you can see there. The firewall already has a dampener-like coating on it, which I am not going to even try to get off, and the rap test is telling me that is is working just fine. Overtop of that (in front of the blower) is going to go half a sheet of ultrastage matt per side. If that doesn't stop engine noise, then I give up.

I don't think I will be putting anything on the floor. I know, it seems odd, but the floor is coated with the same stuff thats on the firewall, and the rap test is telling me that is all thats needed. I have no idea what this stuff is. It is really sticky and it would take days to get all of this stuff off of the floor. I think it is serving as a vibrational dampener for the floor but I have no idea what it is made of. Here is a pic:










sorry for the burryness, the beige looking part is just dirt/glue, the actual material is black. Its kind of hard to see.

Anyways, the rain is impeding progress from here. I'll hopefully be able to get the dash and firewall done tomorrow.

Ask away with any questions you like.


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Nice! I haven't seen an install in an old diesel yet. What do you have planned for audio components? Biodiesel for the win or what?


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Right now I am using RSD's in the kicks, and 2 Fi X series subs in the trunk. The RSDs are active from a PPI DCX processor. Power is coming from an old eclipse 3640 from ebay, and the subs are getting power from a Boston GT-22. Not necessarily a sub amp, but it works for what I am doing. I don't listen to the subs at high volume, and at full power this has more than enough output for me, and they have great SQ.

I will get in there are take some pics of the trunk tomorrow. It is completely unfinished right now, so I will be finishing that up when the interior is back in, and posting pics. I think what I did in there gives a pretty creative way of saving space and keeping the spare tire, but we will see what you guys think when I finalize everything and post pics. Right now I am having trouble with water getting into the trunk though so I am doing everything I can just to keep it all protected right now . So far so good!

But yeah, once the deadening is done I will be finishing the trunk and you guys will get every bit of it.

Biodiesel? Well. I MAY or MAY NOT be planning on doing a *cough*full single tank WVO conversion*/cough* but we will see how that goes in the next month or so. I am currently trying to source possible places to get WVO from and am researching the best method of going about it .

The main problem of being in college is that couple weeks I am in right now between the end of the school year and when my internship at the local Particle Accelerator starts and I actually start making the money to move further on with my master plan. I am pretty bored so I have lots of time to work on the car, but no money to buy all the neat stuff I want. Not to mention the rain has kept me inside prowling DIYMA today .


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## sheaunien (Feb 16, 2006)

WOW! clean 300D.


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

SWEET Benz! I looked at buying a 76 I think it was 7.3L That had been imported to the states, but it got snagged before I could get it. I'd LOVE an old school german car like that!


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

good job on the deadening job! Sweet car too! GL with yer install and yer internship. 

I have somewhat of the same problem you do 30 looking like 19. people are amazed that i have 3 kids....


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

w123 FTMFW.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Mless5 said:


> w123 FTMFW.




Had a long day working on it today. Got the mass majority of VBP in that is going in the front done: feet, kicks, and what I could get to on the dash and firewall. I hope I was able to get enough coverage.

Full details and pics to come... tomorrow. Sorry guys busy night!


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## fritoxtreme (May 23, 2008)

nice. taking those apart is a *****?


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Top work!!! Good going mate. Hope it turns out best for you.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

fritoxtreme said:


> nice. taking those apart is a *****?


Actually its not bad at all. A couple of things are pretty awkward, but figuring out how it all came apart was a lot easier than other modern cars I have tried to get the interior apart on. The only thing that was annoying was the vacuum system. Its SO much easier to pull one of those lines off than clip an electrical wire, and if you pull the wrong one your vacuum will be down and you will have no idea why... which sucks if that line is in the dash! Thankfully I was actually able to fix some vacuum problems while I was in there .

So I have all the updated pics for you guys now finally! Here is one of the back seat deadening I should have put up last time:










Now, to let you guys know what delayed me so much, well the factory sound deadener was cracking in a few places, so I thought: "cracking? that can't be very effective! Lets fix that!" and pulled some of it out only to find:


















Sooo some sanding, Rust to Primer converter (AKA magic sauce) and some bondo hair later and we have:










I did this on a couple of other spots too. I also went through and dug up all of the cracking sound deadener, not all of it was rusted, but i at least needed to replace the cracked stuff. I tried to rip out all of it, but the stuff that was cracking wasn't going ANYWHERE, so I had to settle for the cracked stuff. I used the eDead V3 for the floor:










I am on 3 coats now. I am probably going to go do one more in a minute before I put the VBP in over it.


Now, for the dash, it was really a PIA to try to get VBP up on the firewall, but I put some in front of me behind the instrument cluster and behind the glovebox for good measure, and put little pieces everywhere else I could fit them high in the dash, trying to seal them wherever possible. I couldn't get nearly as much covered as I hoped, so I used scraps of Ultrastage Matt to go in between everything. I literally STUFFED the dash full of this stuff!








There you can see the pad and some of the stuffing








more stuffing










So that is where I am at now. I'll be putting the floor VBP in today once the final layer of eDead dries, and then should be putting the transmission tunnel VBP in and center console, then the seats, and the whole thing should be back to driveable by this afternoon, so I can see the partial results.

Oh, and for you guys that are really interested in the Audio and neat constructive parts of this build, here are some preview pics:

















It will all be cleaned up and finished after the deadening


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## jonesy (May 23, 2008)

Out of all things i hate deadening ill take the hardest part of the install but it takes too damn much time.................looks good though


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

Install looking good 

OT: old german cars...


















- that's a /8 from 68 or so....

Bret


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Beautiful cars. My dad has an old greymarket 280 CE. I am not sure of the year, I'll ask him sometime, I do know it was before they started telling them here .

Yeah, sound deadening is no fun at all... its hard to see it all "coming together." When you are cutting out a baffle or stretching fabric to make a fiberglass enclosure, you can really see where its going and how its going to come out, it kind of gives you motivation to keep trucking, but with deadening its just "hey look, more silver and crawling on my hands and knees." Today was more along the lines of trying to squeeeeeze stuff until the mounting holes become visible... that is seriously frustrating but I am glad to see things going back in. Shouldn't be long before I can hear the fruits of the labor .


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Ok, so everything in the front is back in and the car is drivable again! Preliminary results show an improvement. I still need to do the pad on the doors, and finish the back seat and replace the back door seals (probably the biggest source of road noise right now) to get rid of all the road noise.

I was getting low 70's dB at idle and now I am getting low 60's. So the engine noise has been cut back a lot. There is still some structural vibration that is bothering me though, I am trying to track that down because that is pretty loud (as loud as the engine or worse at this point). I want to wait for everything to go back in and I get those seals done before I make any major conclusions though.


Of course, more pics:









the floor with the trans tunnel back in. I used scrap pieces of eDead to seal the edges wherever possible.










sorry for the blur, I didn't even notice until I put the pic online, and there is no way I am taking that panel off to get another pic! You can see that were I couldn't get the VBP I used a large piece of USM. Did this on both sides









Panel back in, and the not too subtle mat poking its head out. I am going to need to take care of that sometime in the future without sacrificing quality... might need to get creative here, but for now I am ok with it.









I put down a layer of leftover ensolite on the back seat. I dont have enough VBP to cover the whole thing with it, so I am trying a method I saw in another thread. I'm putting down the ensolite, then covering that with the leftover eDead v3.









The first layer down. It looks horrible right now, but I went in and spot filled to make it even. I am on my third now and it looks MUCH better.

The ensolite was very hard to put this stuff over. It would go on this in some areas and wouldnt take in others, so there was a lot of "globbing". Some work with a smaller brush too care of that.

I should get the rest of this done this week, but I start work on tuesday so it will be slow going if I don't get it done tomorrow! Hopefully I can take care of most of the major work.

Thanks for checking it out, please keep the comments and questions coming!


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

When you say structural noise, what do you mean. Is it exhaust hitting the bottom of the car or something else loose and shaking?
Good work though. a 10db drop is actually pretty impressive if you ask me. !


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

It sounds too low to be a rattle. I will probably look around for a while to double check everything. I am hearing a couple rattles, but I don't believe they are what is causing this sound.

What happens is that at low RPM, (idle in drive) the car shakes... a LOT. That is just the nature of old diesels really. At this RPM there is a very low frequency drone in the cabin. It might be from bad motor mounts. Thats probably the first thing to check. The major problem is that it sounds too low to spatially locate. Also, I noticed that when sitting in the drivers seat, if I press my knee into the door, the sound becomes more predominant. It may also be that while the doors seem well deadened to the rap test, the ridiculous amount of strain the motor puts on the body still vibrates them enough to produce some sound.



In other news, after putting my system back together, I noticed my subs sounded really weak... turns out somewhere in here a channel on my PPI DCX-730 went out!! . I need to play with it a little more but thats what its looking like. I have no idea how that happened, as I haven't been near the trunk all install... I was planing on going 3-way with this later in the summer too...

*edit* also, its not exhaust hitting the car, I just replaced the rubber mounting rings there a couple weeks ago.


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

... if you rev the engine, does it change the rattle in any way?


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## adrianp89 (Oct 14, 2007)

Whoa how does the sound from the subs get into the car?


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

bretti_kivi said:


> ... if you rev the engine, does it change the rattle in any way?


At anything but drive on the lowest RPM (my car has an idle speed control. All tests were done with it on the lowest setting) the sound isn't there. If I rev it in drive the drone goes away, or at the very least blends in with the regular engine noise enough that it doesn't stand out, I couldn't promise you which one it is without listening more. I only have to rev it a very little bit for this to happen.

I looked around for large things that could be rattling while I had it idling in driving and didn't find anything that made a noticeable difference. I also used my body weight to dampen some panels with no luck. It may be an engine mount or just very low freq engine noise that only comes about in low RPM.



the727kid said:


> Whoa how does the sound from the subs get into the car?


.

Good question . Ensolite is a pretty poor sound absorber IME. It is most effective at high frequencies, where it is intended to be effective. So what I should be saying is that it works as intended, people have just overhyped it. Its job on the back seat is to absorb high noise from the rear drivetrain and road, which it does. The v3 on top of that is then decoupled to act more like a "barrier" although it isn't a barrier in the same way VBP is (its not as effective). This is going to have a diminishing effectiveness with frequency, but by the sub frequencies I can't imagine it is blocking more than a few dB, though I haven't tested it (and maybe I will now that you brought it to my attention!). The v1SE doesn't block sound either, at least not very much. At sub frequencies the block will be about 1-2 dB, which is barely noticeable.

The trunk of my car is weird, simply because the gas tank is located vertically right behind the back seat! So yeah, there is a lot between me and my subs  but I have cut some holes in the rear deck to allow the sound from the subs through. The way the trunk is oriented, the holes in the top should not let in the same sound being blocked by the back seat deadening, but it might be hurting a little bit. Testing will ensue to optimize this situation more once my cabin is fully deadened. Not much left to go at this point.

Seriously, getting good sub sound without unwanted noise is/was an engineering nightmare in this car, but I think what I have done is working pretty well. Right now, I can hear them very clearly and they sound smooth, but I am getting a little more rear drivetrain noise than I want. I haven't finished the v3 layer yet.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Had some time after work today to try to fit the VBP into the doors and spent a couple hours just trying to make one door work... without much success 

Some of the bolts have to go in at an angle so since it is pushed out 3/8 of an inch or so, the angle is really steep and I can't get the bolts in right. Not sure how I am going to handle this, I might have to secure the door panel another way and use liquid nails to hold the armrest in place (thats where the bolts are). Any suggestions welcome.


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## zoomski (Feb 11, 2008)

looking great... nad benz'es are a nightmare my buddy had an w124 300d and that thing was a audio nightmare...


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

The way that back wall is built should do an IB


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Dougie085 said:


> The way that back wall is built should do an IB


You have no idea how much I wanted to do an IB with this install . There were some major issues with doing this though:

- The gas tank is mounted vertically behind the rear wall. There is only an inch or so of clearance behind the back seat, so I couldn't build a wall coming up to the back seat.

- The subs I am using don't work amazingly well in IB (or so I have heard)

I asked the Fi tech guy (Nick) if it would be a good idea to run them in IB and he said small sealed would be the better way to go, so thats what I went with. I was also a little worried about output because if I had built an IB baffle it would have been behind the gas tank, and the way the trunk lid comes down would make it very difficult to get a good seal.

Short story: it would make an awesome IB if I could relocate the gas tank. LOL.



zoomski said:


> looking great... nad benz'es are a nightmare my buddy had an w124 300d and that thing was a audio nightmare...


In what ways? The only major problems I have run across have been the general loudness of the car and difficulty incorporating subs. I haven't noticed anymore major resonances than the average car. The stock speaker locations aren't the best though, building kickpanel enclosures or maybe dashpods are a must. The stock locations point at the windshield, which really screws up any staging/imaging.

I am putting everything back together as we speak. Man, this is something I would never want to do again! The doors aren't bad, but once you start taking the rest of the interior apart... gah! Tedious and laborious work.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

you might want to look into that  lol. I bet someone makes a gas tank relocation kit. I'm not sure what you mean about mounting the sub behind the tank. Most do it on the deck lid is that not what you would do?


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## 328iBMW (Aug 16, 2007)

Your car looks really nice. Good work.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Dougie085 said:


> you might want to look into that  lol. I bet someone makes a gas tank relocation kit. I'm not sure what you mean about mounting the sub behind the tank. Most do it on the deck lid is that not what you would do?


Deck lid is the same problem . The back seat and deck lid make a -\ shape of course, and the gas tank is mounted right under the -, right behind the seat and under the deck lid. Its mounted vertically, so it comes a few inches from the deck lid, and a few inches from the back seat.

I guess I was thinking about the type of IB where you build a baffle near coming to the back of the back seat area. IIRC, there isn't enough room for a full sub below the deck lid, but something shallow might work. I'll measure again tomorrow and see (I did the sub install a while ago).

I'll try to take some pics of all of that to give you guys an idea of what is going on back there once I get to finished the trunk, which should be next weekend or so. I'll keep you posted


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

I just can't imagine you getting much use of that subs sound capabilities with that thick metal wall there. My old bosses BMW had something like this and it was almost impossible to get any sub to sound good in it. The only one that ever sounded halfway decent was a 13W7 when they came out. This was before my DIY days though.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Yeah, I know what you mean. I am trying to find something, but google gives no luck. I might see if I can do it myself, I'll check it out when I take the subs out.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

Yeah definitely take some pictures I'm sure someone here can give you some idea's. Even if you could find a way to lay the tank down or use a different tank and then build a false floor over it or something? I know they have like racing fuel cells you could use but they aren't generally very big and they cost a lot sometimes.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cust...45767505QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180245767505& Something I found on ebay...not sure if you need your trunk  But it could be an option. Really just depends on how important the sound of your system is to you.


Edit: Here's another thats a little cheaper http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gas-...45767564QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180245767564&

I'm not sure how big the stock tank is so maybe this would actually be smaller?


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

The stock tank is 18 gallons I think. Might be 17 I am not too sure, so yeah that would be a lot smaller. Thanks for taking the time to find that . I have run across things like that in the past looking at WVO conversions, but I was hoping I could find someone in the surprisingly active w123 community that had moved the stock tank, I don't think they have the same priorities we do though!

And yeah, trunk space is vital to me. I am a musician (not professional) and I do PA gigs as well, so its pretty important to have trunk space.

I took some pics so you guys could get an idea of what I am working with. These were taken through the hole in the rear deck 

You can see where the gas tank comes to, and where my sub box comes right up to that.










Here is another angle, you can see where the gas tank comes up to the deck. I got the ruler in the pic so you can see I have about 3 inches of clearance right there. The deck itself is about 13" deep, so I could fit a 12" or 2 up there pending depth. The gas tank doesn't extend out as much as I thought it might, so if the sub magnet isn't ridiculously large it might be able to fit without tank modification:











I'll take out one of the Fi's later to see how deep it could go without running into the gas tank. It could be possible to build on top of the rear deck to elevate the sub, which would avoid any problems, but I would like to keep if from being too obvious that there is an expensive system in the car, smooth curves and grill cloth should work alright.

I'll take some more measurements with the sub out later.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

If you could build up on the deck lid and angle the sub into the car I think you could do something. If I lived closer I would so come help you out  But if you do some fiber glassing and cover in carpet and then some sort of grills over the speakers I doubt you'd be able to tell much from outside unless they were staring into your car. Either way be pretty hard to get those out if someone did try and steal it. In VA your allowed to have 35% tint on the back window that would help out a lot. It's 35 on all the rear windows and 50% on the front drivers and passanger windows. Just an idea.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks for the ideas dougie, I went back and measured with woofer in hand. The magnet diameter is about 5.5", with a mounting depth of 5.75" for the sub itself. At the point it would have to go in at, I would have about 4" clearance above the gas tank at the smallest point, with well above that much anywhere else. So if I could angle mount it, then I would probably need an inch rise on the shallow side. If I didn't angle it I would need about 2 inches rise. I am pretty good with fiberglass, so I think the angle is doable, and if its only an inch or so it shouldn't be hard to make it easy to pass by without taking a second look.

This will probably take a little while to get off the ground, I still have a lot of planning to do, and I'll need to get some sound deadener to deaden the... gas tank!? You don't see that in too many installs there is also some tuning stuff with the fonts I want to do, and I am actually working now so I don't have as much time as I used to, but this has the potential to be really freaking sweet.


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

Sounds great! Can't wait to see progress  If those subs you have aren't that great for IB I'm sure you could sell them and buy a single IB driver or something if you wanted. Being an IB I doub't you'd need more then one driver. But if you really like your drivers I'm sure it's worth a try and if it doesn't work out maybe something else will fit in the spot.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Well guys, time to make an update. This is going to be a slightly outdated update, because I haven't been able to take too many pics. My camera is broken so I am dealing with having to use someone elses if they are around.

But! I have decided on a front stage: Here we go

Front:
Tweeters: Rainbow CAL25, bought from a forum member Need-SQ. Thanks man!
Mids: Hybrid Audio L3, bought from forum member Bikinpunk. Thanks bud!
Midbass: Peerless SLS 6.5. Maybe buying these from a forum member, currently in negotiations .

Sub:
1 x Fi X series 12"

Processing:
Full blown car PC. My mom bought a new computer, so I took the old one. I've got a m4-atx power supply installed, and am picking up a Audiotrac Prodigy Hi Fi soundcard (I think!!), and am still deciding on the screen (aka, I haven't found anything cheap enough yet )

Amps:
Eclipse EA (old) does 120 x 2 at 4 ohms
Eclipse PA (old) does 85 x 4 at 4 ohms
Boston GT-22 does 400 x 1 at 2 ohms

I bought the PA on ebay for $50 SHIPPED. Supposedly the front right channel is intermittent. If it is, and I can't fix it, I still have enough power. But man, I LOVE these old eclipse amps because they are cheap and provide nice clean power. Oh and did I mention they are puuuurdy?




























As of now, I also have the mids in hand. First Impressions: they are TINY. Smaller than my palm! Second Impressions: They sound HUGE. I guess they are right when they say size doesn't matter .










I've got more pics I'll get on here soon! I've already built massive baffles for the L3's, and I just spend like hours 4 and 5 with a good friend of mine finding the best location and I think we found a trick that might expand on rick's (raamaudio) method of quick aiming. Right now I have a great center image from both seats, but width is a little lacking... I think having tweets and some eq should take care of that. It feels like the left and right images are coming from inside the a-pillars, and I want tips of mirrors.

I'll fill you guys in when I have pics to show you.

Also, news on the substage: There is an additional part of the gas tank that is actually mounted TO the rear deck. LAME! There is room for no more than 1 12", and I don't know if that will be enough... I want to be able to put SLS 8" in the door and drop the substage all together... but I don't want to massacre my door cards (no stock door speakers)... anyone want to give some input here? Its a tough call...


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

What kind of output from the sub are you looking for? If your going for flat response I can't imagine a single 12 not being enough. Even if your going for a little inflated bottom end you should be fine. If that sub doesn't do the trick then get a 12" IB sub something like this should be nice  

http://www.diycable.com/main/produc...s_id=653&Cid=eae61c9592afbd32c011f8e52f525054

These are relatively cheap ( I think so anyways?) and are very popular for home IB use so imagine it should be ok in a car? I really can't imagine yours not being enough though even with it not being suited to IB use per say.

Oh I had another idea for an IB in your car as well. I don't know if you've ever seen how most do it in a home setup in an attic or something? They have like a manifold coming up through a hole in the roof where they attach multiple drivers? I was thinking you could try and make the biggest opening you could and have a chamber going down to where you mount the sub so it sits down inside the trunk. I'll have to try and draw up a picture of what I'm talking about as I don't know if you know what I mean. But basically as far as the decklid goes there would just be a hole.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Yeah, I mean it certainly might be enough. I am not looking for tons of output; this is definitely an SQ setup. Like I said, once I make enough progress on the front stage are carputer that I can't get more done (like waiting for resin to dry) I'll go back at this sub thing. I think in 90 of cases the single 12 would be enough, but every now and then I like to put on something with a lot of bass.

One 12" in a small sealed box in the trunk has kept me MORE than happy, so if I only lose a little bit of output by going to IB then it would be good. We'll see how it goes when I do it.

I think I see what you mean, but I am not into home audio so I don't have a reference. You mean cutting a hole in the rear deck and having basically a chamber connecting that to the sub mounted lower in the trunk? 

| |--
\ \_
\O O|
-----

kind of, lol


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

Yeah sort of here is a picture for you.


















I'm not so sure you'd have to actually cut a hole it might work in the opening you have and obviously I'd take the manifold and fiberglass it to the decklid and reinforce the decklid still but it would be much more stealth and should give more room to mount a bigger driver if you felt the need? Or at least less work trying to build up a fiberglass mount?


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Yep, I get it. Definitely something to think about, thanks!


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

I think it will work great especially if you fiber glass it to mold the shape of that entire hole up there. And of course with fiberglass you can easily shape it around the tank. If I end up getting a car that might be something I do as I don't really want subs sitting in the decklid


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## bmwpowere36m3 (Mar 20, 2008)

BUMP, whatever came of this build. I too am looking for some inspiration on my 300CD build.


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Unfortunately the build died a few years back. The tranny in the car went and it wasn't worth the price to fix it. Sorry bro


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