# do i need a seperate amp for tweeters?



## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

Let's say I was planning to run a component set up front and co-ax in the rear of my vehicle, would the 4 channel amp be amplifying the tweeters or just the woofer? How would I run the speaker wiring?


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Yes it would be amped. The wires to the front will go to the passive crossover, from there a wire will go to the mid and another will go to power the tweeter.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Not unless you wanted to go active. Leave it as planned until you feel the need to upgrade.


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

What is the difference between passive and active?


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Active is before amplification, passive is after. Active offers more flexibility particularly in the use of raw drivers. That doesn't guarantee better performance however... Leave it as simple as possible.


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

so is it just depending on the location of the crossover or is there a difference in the cross over itself?


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Both..


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

so would this be considered an active or passive? AudioControl 2XS (Gray) 2-way electronic crossover at Crutchfield.com


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Active, but hopefully you're only linking that as an example. It's sort of useless with current headunits unless you get into the custom configurations. Your component set is passive, so all it needs is actively high passing on the headunit or amp around 80-120hz (depending upon driver size). The included passive module will split up the signal from there. Same as the rear coax. No need to make things more complicated as there is nothing wrong with using passives. 

The desire to run all active has turned more into a trend than a need especially with shelf component sets that already include a passive design.


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

ok so let's say i wanted to run something like this Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6 Punch Pro 6-3/4" midrange speaker with 4-ohm voice coil at Crutchfield.com
since it doesn't come with a cross over or tweeter i assume i would have to buy those individually? how would i know which tweeter to pair it with? can i just use any tweeter or does it have to be one in specific?


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Can be any tweeter you like, but tuning could.be easy to impossible. Those aren't what I would consider ideal for a starting system. Exactly what are you trying to do?


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

I'm looking for more oomph in my midbass, I have a 15 inch sub that takes care of the lows and I'm happy with the vocals just no oomph if the sub isn't on. Sounds very shallow


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

can i get some recommendations for good 6- 3/4 component speakers (once again, more oomph in mids)? budget is around 150-200$ for the speakers.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

List your gear (all of it), vehicle, and how all is installed


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## Phoenix_9_6 (Aug 25, 2014)

alright so here is a list of my current stuff, sorry for the delayed post as i had to work. but here we go :
-Pioneer avh-p5700dvd (HU)
-Pioneer ts-a1685r (4 way 6.5 speakers front doors and mid panel)
-15" alpine type s in ported box tuned to 39Hz (paired with alpine mrv-m500, 500wrms @2 ohms)

all installed in my 2001 toyota sienna


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Huh! Why bring the word active! Not again! 

Forget active, you will loose the rear speakers.

Look in to a set like the Sony XS-GS1720S

Or hertz DSK 165 if you want decent midbass in the front.

Even a set of infinity REF components may be OK, the SONY ones have a bi ampable xover if later you decide to go for cleaner sound and get rid of the rears. And can be used as most passive xovers.

The key to better midbass is quality installation, quality sound deadener, seal as much as possible the inner door openings, with galvanized sheet metal for holes over 4.5" big, seal gaps between door, ring spacer baffle, speaker and ring spacer baffle and door card (panel) and speaker.

You can spend $600 on a set of components but if no deadener or gaps are sealed, they will disappoint you. Also with good CLD deadener you do not need to do 100% coverage, 30-35% will do and focusing on closing the gaps or openings as much as possible.


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## Pitmaster (Feb 16, 2010)

Alrojoca said:


> The key to better midbass is quality installation, quality sound deadener, seal as much as possible the inner door openings, with galvanized sheet metal for holes over 4.5" big, seal gaps between door, ring spacer baffle, speaker and ring spacer baffle and door card (panel) and speaker.
> 
> You can spend $600 on a set of components but if no deadener or gaps are sealed, they will disappoint you. Also with good CLD deadener you do not need to do 100% coverage, 30-35% will do and focusing on closing the gaps or openings as much as possible.


This ^
Mount it solid. It will make any speaker sound better.
With midbass, its mostly about the install.


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

I've always likes JBL 2 ways, I ran Power series with joy.


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