# interstate vs optima..battery help



## Jcube69 (Jan 15, 2009)

well first off the volt mettere gauge on ym car has been droping...usualy resting below the 14volt range....i tested it with a multi meter...12.4 with car off 14.2 while engin is runing and 14.2 still at 2-3k rpms

with headlights on it drops to 14.1

all that aside my altenator wines (ocasionaly) it hasnt done it at all today sept in the morning....my light dim severly when my bass hits and my volt metere jumps (somtimes resting in the red for awhile)

from what i red a solution would be a better battery (since iv learned caps dont help much acording to diyma)...now the guy at the store and audio store instantly say yellow top refering to optima....and although i have no problem buying that....

is there anorther interstate battery just as good or stronger for the same/less price?

if so what so good about them other than the fact optima's are leak proof and vibration resistant


if you need to know my amps is 1200rms @ 2 ohms (kenwood excelon x1200m) and im running to SVC 4ohm Dayton MkIII's rated at 500rms in paralled thus a 2 ohm load...

my altenator i belive stock is around 100amps? (not fully sure...my car is a 1996 pontiac bonneville...3.8L engin NO super charge) ive read to do the big 3 before upgrading alt..that is running 0 gauge wire (forgot second step but i think i did it) and upgrading stock BAT....

im curently running a farm fleet? no maintenece battery....all i know there are numbers on it i can get if any one needs them...

so in summary
is the battery my problem? will upgrading solve my probs?
if not, what should i do? (no running the subs at an 8 ohm load IS NOT an option)

edit: i do not hav 0 gauge wire running im using 4 gauge with an 80 amp maxi fuse using a big hefty kicker fuse block


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## braves6117 (Feb 13, 2008)

Auto Dupe!


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## braves6117 (Feb 13, 2008)

If your looking for a new battery, I'll be nice and not tell you to search.

BAM !

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio/57064-battery.html

(this thread contains battery secrets only privy to those that can read secret code)


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## prestonhill (Apr 5, 2009)

I spoke with interstate battery rep/salesman/delivery driver about this. I was told to that using the Optima under the hood as a main car battery is pointless, sorry I don't remember his reasoning and it made since so I didn't argue. However he said using Optima as a second battery is a better option. He also had Optima batteries (Interstate also sells Optima)on his truck so wasn't like he wanted to sell a interstate. 
Not my reasoning but I bought what he was selling..
KEN


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## ss600r (Mar 8, 2009)

Its how stable the lead plates are inside the batteries that make the diff. Your higher end lines of batteries will have reinforcements sort to speak to keep the plates from moving. Moving plates shortens performance and life. Low grade batteries if jerked around enough can actually have plates touch each other, basically causing and short and is what is often called a dead cell. And regardless of the name, as with many things there are only a couple actual companies that make them. Most are Exide and Interstate.


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## tntgto (Apr 14, 2009)

Just get a Kinetic HC1800.


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## AndyInOC (Jul 22, 2008)

If we keep telling everyone to buy the Die Hard Platinum then Sears may raise the price lol


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I abused the living hell out of an Optima once, and I've used them many times since then because of the overall toughness it had.

Exhibit A:

I had a Nissan Stanza, a vehicle that killed alternators for some gremlin reason. They would die at the regulator, so I would end up with overpowered electrical systems, pushing many more volts than it should. The rotten egg smell was the only indicator, as the battery vented off the increased pressure. I think I replaced three of them from Autozone thanks to their lifetime warranty, and I think the third one actually worked in the end. This whole time, my Optima took a hell of a beating, but even with a damaged exterior (slightly melted from the heat and pressure), the battery performed admirably. 

Would others do as well? I don't know for sure, but I do know that I sold Diehard batteries for years as a SEARS / NTB Tire service writer, and they didn't take that type of abuse so well.


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## mjgonegm (Jun 21, 2008)

Look at the specs of these of these battery here(When is it time to upgrade an alternator), Which everyone works for you get it, remember ads lies, Specs Have to truthful. Read this whole page it should help you quite a bit.


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## Aaron Clinton (Oct 17, 2006)

*Optima's and SVR's have been very sturdy in our vehicles.*


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

Ok I have a question I either didn't see or over looked. How is your belt? You said it squeaks from time to time. That means either one of a few things. 

If the belt is glazed that can cause a squeek or if the belt is simply cracked. Another common problem is if the ALT is kind of old the pulley may be bad as well. If it's a V belt then it needs to ride on the edges of the V not the bottom


What kind of noise is it? If it's more of a grinding noise your bearings may be going out.

Don't just assume you need a battery because of a voltage drop like that. Even though the Alt is putting 14v could just be a belt.

Again if it were me. I'd check the belt first.

Oh and another common thing to look for that will confirm a bad battery is if you see any kind of reside coming from the terminals. I have an optima red top and it had some residue from the un used side posts which meant it was leaking and needed replacing.


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## Jcube69 (Jan 15, 2009)

Fussion289 said:


> Ok I have a question I either didn't see or over looked. How is your belt? You said it squeaks from time to time. That means either one of a few things.
> 
> If the belt is glazed that can cause a squeek or if the belt is simply cracked. Another common problem is if the ALT is kind of old the pulley may be bad as well. If it's a V belt then it needs to ride on the edges of the V not the bottom
> 
> ...


well im by no means NO mechanic..i barly no how tyo check wht fluids when..and eve nthen...its a learning process along with my sound system (but i know more about electrical systems than cars to begin with =\)

anyways the belt has...."polishd" spots on it its dull and polishd.......the underside of the belt has ridges in it there are noticible cracks on that side...

and i didnt say squeaks..it screams or wines......idk how else to put it...its this really high pitch eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

or iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii....but NOT AND I MEAN NOT THE KINDA OF NOISE U GET FROM A GORUND PROBLEM....this is much more hit pitchd and quiter

anyways i can take pictures of my belt if u want or pictures of anything tbh...
sry havnt posted in a few days/week was outa town....its 3:43 atm i work at 5 but im on a short shift so i should be home around 7-830 ish


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## Jtejedor (Dec 19, 2008)

Honestly man I don't think a battery will solve your issues. Those batteries will last longer in your vehicle but if your alt is not putting out enough current to keep up with your system no battery will ever help that. I would look at how much power your system is consuming relative to how big your alternator is. If you want a tough battery that will last a real long time then yeah get yourself an optima or odyssey, just don't think it will solve your power issues or alt whine.


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## Jcube69 (Jan 15, 2009)

Jtejedor said:


> Honestly man I don't think a battery will solve your issues. Those batteries will last longer in your vehicle but if your alt is not putting out enough current to keep up with your system no battery will ever help that. I would look at how much power your system is consuming relative to how big your alternator is. If you want a tough battery that will last a real long time then yeah get yourself an optima or odyssey, just don't think it will solve your power issues or alt whine.


thats wht i thought but suposedly it all can help (alt supose to be last thing or somthing acording to peeps here)

and my alt i belive is 100 amps or 120

my amps is a kenwood excelon x1200m rated 1200rms...and i belive at FULL BORE thats ~ 157amps of power....seing as its not going to be going full bore all the time nor have i ever even turned it up that loud.....but u got to take into account the cars usage of electric curent too so i more or less have 50-60 amps to play with...im sure its much to small but i brlive i need a cs44 or cs144 or w\e.....a 240amp alt was like $380 of ebay kinda pricy


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

Jcube69 said:


> anyways the belt has...."polishd" spots on it its dull and polishd.......the underside of the belt has ridges in it there are noticible cracks on that side...


That right there is all all i really needed to know. A simple test is to get a piece of something 1 inch in length and put next to the belt if there are more than 4 cracks per 1 inch, I pretty sure it's 4, it's usualy considered bad and needs replaced. Also if you see any cracks all the way thorugh the same can be said.

Basicly the most common cause of alternators or electrical systems in general for having problems IS the belt and by far the cheapest. I'd try a decent quality belt and see what you get.

The reason the thing squeals is because there's just not enough tension on it to keep it pressed against the pulleyies. The squeel or whatever you wanna call it you hear is a result of the belt slipping, which is ok and it WILL happen no matter how good or new the belt is. It's supposed to slip a tiny amount and usualy will. But if it's strarts making sounds, replace it. If it keeps making sounds you may need to replace an idler or tensioner of some sort.

If all this is out of your scope you may wanan consider seeing an auto repair specialist a buddy you may know or something to help you out on it.

Best of luck!

EDIT: And if you have more than one belt, you mid as well replace them all while your in there Eventually they will wear out and if your having someone replace it usually they only, atleast a good one should only, charge for one install.




Also do we have any kind of tutorial in regards to these kind of porblems??? If not this might be a great candidate or I could write one up since the electrical systems health has a direct impact on the quality of the sound esp in larger audio systems that put a very hefty demand on the system.


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## DaleCarter (Jan 3, 2008)

"remember ads lies, Specs Have to truthful. "

Did someone on an AUDIO site really say that specs have to be truthful? Really? hahahahahahahahaha


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## MrChow (Apr 10, 2009)

Jcube69 said:


> well first off the volt mettere gauge on ym car has been droping...usualy resting below the 14volt range....i tested it with a multi meter...12.4 with car off 14.2 while engin is runing and 14.2 still at 2-3k rpms
> 
> with headlights on it drops to 14.1
> 
> all that aside my altenator wines (ocasionaly) it hasnt done it at all today sept in the morning....my light dim severly when my bass hits and my volt metere jumps (somtimes resting in the red for awhile)


Yeah you need a new battery. My battery sit at 12.8 with the car off and on 14.4. 
How much money are you willing to spent? Optima works great! I had one in my car. I still have it around. We want more help PM me I'm willing to help you out.
I have a stock alt that put out 80amp. My battery is a kinetik HC800 and my system rms at around 800. I have no dimming.

Are yours wines coming from the speaker or what?


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

I had an Optima in my Corvette that gave me nothing but trouble. Only lasted 10 months, and was dead half the time. I don't drive the car every day, and if it sat for more then a week, it would go dead. Took it back to Autozone, and got one of their batts, and have had no problems for almost a year.
To the OP, have you done the big three?


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Dam double posts...


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## primetimetsa (Apr 21, 2009)

optima


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## Jcube69 (Jan 15, 2009)

Fussion289 said:


> That right there is all all i really needed to know. A simple test is to get a piece of something 1 inch in length and put next to the belt if there are more than 4 cracks per 1 inch, I pretty sure it's 4, it's usualy considered bad and needs replaced. Also if you see any cracks all the way thorugh the same can be said.
> 
> Basicly the most common cause of alternators or electrical systems in general for having problems IS the belt and by far the cheapest. I'd try a decent quality belt and see what you get.
> 
> ...


well i was planing on trying it no im not the best mechanic but a belt cant be hard...besides my dads a learned man so hes rigfht ehind me if i f up

i really dont think the squeal is from the belt tho..i mean this is very high pitchd and usually quiet silent....i mean very very very high pitch like high pitchd that some ppl cant hear it...at times its a bit lower....ive stuck my head right next to the altenator and it sounds like its coming from inside it...

i was planing on doing a tune up on my car anyways and was like what the hell if im changeing th oild plugs distibuter caps filters..i mine as well change my belt too.....if it works GREAT! if not well....ill have to get a new one

sadly im straped for cash atm since i got chemicals on my glasses and it melted....my job basicaly said go to hell...so now i get to spend $500 on new glasses! joy!.......and to think i could of got a nice new shiny amp..or HU

life is so cruel >.<


MrChow said:


> Yeah you need a new battery. My battery sit at 12.8 with the car off and on 14.4.
> How much money are you willing to spent? Optima works great! I had one in my car. I still have it around. We want more help PM me I'm willing to help you out.
> I have a stock alt that put out 80amp. My battery is a kinetik HC800 and my system rms at around 800. I have no dimming.
> 
> Are yours wines coming from the speaker or what?


first off im running 1200rms.....second my alt is 100-120 amps MAX..idle its much lower.....i have an older car so im sure the altenator hasnt been replaced much its a 1996 pntiac bonneville and has ~117,000miles on it...runs like a dream in perfect condition (i luv old folks and there maintenence ^.^)

im hoping to buy the PM! marine die hard battery but i dont think it wil lfit in my car...if it has problems with that well...new alt FOR SURE

i dont think audio does well in an aqustic point of view anyway but i got lots to learn anyways


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## MrChow (Apr 10, 2009)

I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx with 184k miles. Also with a lot of track time and drifting. I beat my car up. It runs great it actually get better MPG than on stock. =D

Get a kinetik battery. Before you go buying a battery please do some research. 
Go search on Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com there's a ton of info about batteries there. Search!


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## Jcube69 (Jan 15, 2009)

MrChow said:


> I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx with 184k miles. Also with a lot of track time and drifting. I beat my car up. It runs great it actually get better MPG than on stock. =D
> 
> Get a kinetik battery. Before you go buying a battery please do some research.
> Go search on Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com there's a ton of info about batteries there. Search!


im not sating optima isnt a good battery but from alot "actual accounts" ive heard that the terminals can an have melted.....and its truly not ment to be the main car battery more like a spair...orblems recharging after being SEVERLY DEPLEATED.

quite a few people prefer the DIE HARD batteries from SEARS because they are basicaly a re labled odesy battery.....i was planing on gettin optima cause the guys at the store said it but after doing some research on these fourms as well as others i dont feel like taking a chance......die hards are a bit more pricy but for a battery that will work and live ill take it..not to mention even the plain platinum out specs the optima....and although new technology means better things i havent found much impresivness in the gel cel technology AS OF YET everything has its hay day and im sure it will and lead will be a thing of the past...but atm im vearing away from optima or gel cells to say in a category sense


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## MrChow (Apr 10, 2009)

Uh... Hey if you've done your research then go for it.


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

Jcube69 said:


> well i was planing on trying it no im not the best mechanic but a belt cant be hard...besides my dads a learned man so hes rigfht ehind me if i f up
> 
> i really dont think the squeal is from the belt tho..i mean this is very high pitchd and usually quiet silent....i mean very very very high pitch like high pitchd that some ppl cant hear it...at times its a bit lower....I've stuck my head right next to the altenator and it sounds like its coming from inside it...


Well if it is cracked it needs replacing anywho, but if that doesn't fix it it might be the bearings which you can either get rebuilt and that is a risk in its self i usually steer away from or simply buy a new one. BUT I still stand by the fact a belt is cheaper and usually is the main cause and if you end up replacing the alternator it's usually a good idea to replace the belt anyhow and yes I'm a mechanic been doing it for 5+ years LoL. Belts were invited for the purpose that they could slip without tearing up what they were conected to not to mention they were WAY cheaper, actually that's not entirely true they were invented b/c they are cheap but are still used because well they are cheaper and easier to replace.


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

Jcube69 said:


> im not sating optima isnt a good battery but from alot "actual accounts" ive heard that the terminals can an have melted.....and its truly not ment to be the main car battery more like a spair...orblems recharging after being SEVERLY DEPLEATED.
> 
> quite a few people prefer the DIE HARD batteries from SEARS because they are basicaly a re labled odesy battery.....i was planing on gettin optima cause the guys at the store said it but after doing some research on these fourms as well as others i dont feel like taking a chance......die hards are a bit more pricy but for a battery that will work and live ill take it..not to mention even the plain platinum out specs the optima....and although new technology means better things i havent found much impresivness in the gel cel technology AS OF YET everything has its hay day and im sure it will and lead will be a thing of the past...but atm im vearing away from optima or gel cells to say in a category sense


Just an FYI as I worked for sears, there are only 2 battery manufactures of car batteries even in the us anywho. Exide and Johnson controls. Not exactly sure why but most likely simply because of the tight regulatory controls on hazardous materials in a battery but i digress. So really what your buying is something built to a tighter, hopefully, tolerance. And Johnson Controls makes the die hard, Exide of course makes exide and whatever else.

Also just to give you my personal account I have an optima RED top and it works fine. I've depeleted it to the point nothing on the car would run and the starter would only half turn over, well more like a nice not quite start or the starter just BARELY is able to even move, and I all I've had to do is jump the car off and let it run for 20 minutes or so to recharge and it runs fin. 

As for the terminals melting that person most likely was using a wiring WAY to small for whatever app it was and so it over heated OR he had a short coming from the battery to the chassis somewhere which would over draw and melt the terminals. The only reason I say this is because all batteries use the same material on the terminals, lead, and it has a very low melting point. Not saying it's not possible the battery didn't have a defect but I'm always leary about cust testimonies b/c you never know what they have done or how much of a half truth they've told.


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## stuckinok (Jul 22, 2008)

One of the best deals on batteries in the NGT extreme line at your local carquest. The NGT line just relabeled Deka intimidator batts. They are very good and a D34 can be had for 127ish IIRC. Geat quality at a very affordable price! In one of my old installs I had one of these up front and it was great with no problems for over a year until I sold the jeep.

http://www.carquest.com/common/downloads/partsBatteriesCQ_NGT.pdf


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## Fussion289 (Apr 3, 2009)

There is actually one test I didn't not think of last time you can do. Get a can of WD40 and spray the under side of the belt, LIGHTLY spray it and see if the whine goes away. If the whine is gone after spraying it the belt isnt the source of the whine it has to be a mechanical part.


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## BassBrat (Mar 26, 2009)

Can someone clarify and tell me exactly what the "Big Three" upgrade is


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## MrChow (Apr 10, 2009)

BassBrat said:


> Can someone clarify and tell me exactly what the "Big Three" upgrade is


Search...

Let me google that for you


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## jrfonte (Apr 7, 2009)

Jcube69 said:


> well first off the volt mettere gauge on ym car has been droping...usualy resting below the 14volt range....i tested it with a multi meter...12.4 with car off 14.2 while engin is runing and 14.2 still at 2-3k rpms
> 
> with headlights on it drops to 14.1
> 
> ...


how are you liking your mkIII's i had 4 12 mkIII and loved them in my 97 grand am on 2400wrms with a 200 amp alt and 2 batts and had problems with having enough power kept going through alternators all the time for some reason they dont last very long in these pontiacs they get really hot and fry the resistors and stuff mine would always start to whine right before they went out.


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