# An abbreviated install log of my own car :)



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, its acutally been a few weeks since i finished the installation on my own car, but with the crazy work schedule, i havent had any chance to organize the pics i took and upload them.

With the G35 out of the way, i finally got a chance to sit down, relax a bit, and comb through the pics and start to put together an install log. One thing that immediately became apparent was that i am apparently much less patient at taking pics of my own car's install than the last time around haha, as a result, this is going to be a pretty abbreviated install log, compared to many similar logs posted by other DIyers.

so anyway, lets get started...

Goals:

1. achieve a decent level of sound quality (than previous system)

2. keep everything hidden completely under the floor

3. throw in aspects of my skillset into the install so i can demonstrated to potential clients what certain things can look like (i.e. wiring neatly through grommits, routed plexi, led edge lit plexi, etc etc)
-------------------------

okay, i guess before i go into the install, a little bit about the vehicle? 

its a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5GT wagon...with some mods. here is a list and the most recent pics of i have of it:

KN intake
Cobb Pulley
Perrin turbo inlet hose
Perrin TMIC
760cc injectors 
Walbro pump
aquamist methanol injection
18G turbo at 20psi w/meth
flex UP
Cobb DP
Crucial P/P exhusat manifold
BC Racing BR coilovers
Tranny Cooler
crossdrilled/slotted rotors
magnaflow exhuast with porsche 911 style tips
20 Tint
AEM UEGO wideband
autometer boost guage
accessport with custom tdc/harmann map
GFB BOV at 50/50
Kosei K3 18x7.5
General Exclaim 225 40 18
Debadged with L7 badge ont he back i made
mesh grille
cleared headlights
4500 HIDs
engine cover and bracket delete
urathane control arm bushings
two large cracks in the windshield curtesey of cali highways lol
all told about 400hp/450tq at crank, 300-325 awhp depending on mustang or dynoject

may have mised a few things here and there


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay...onto the audio portion. before i dive into the current install, a quick revisit to the previous install. which was extremely simple. pioneer avic-z1 to a single DLS A5 3 channel amp, whcih powered a set of DLS nobeliums in kicks upfront, and a single idmax10 in the back, with an audiocontrol DQT providing the tuning. the car sounded okay in a normal sense, but paled terribly when compared to the SQ systems people were building. Coupled with the fact that more and more clients seem to be interested in going in that direction, i figured it was finally time to ditch the old and build something a little bit more proper...

so here was the old cargo area set up:










as you can see, a single idmax10, the A5 amp, and two passive xovers took up the entire space.

so...this is where the challengs for the new install began...this time, in the SAME space, i needed to fit roughly TWICE the stuff, if not more 

and here are the big pieces thats going into the back:










so...lets take stock:

IDQ10 sub
DLS A4 4 channel amp (bridged for midbass)
DLS A5 3 channel amp (tweets, and subwoofer)
Zapco DSp6-SL processor

and add to that:

.75-.8 cubfeet sub enclosure
two D-blocks on display
two barrier strips on display
a slew of edge lit plexi borders....etc...

so all that in this space...and have to look decent (though cosmetics was never the driving factor in this setup)










so quite the headache then, setting this limitation on myself...you may wonder why? well...i guess i will let the pictures do the talking. This is my car on a weekly or bi-weekly basis:










infact, this is a light load  normally, there would be a few more sheets of wood and carpet in there. 

so this is why my install in the back must not take up ANY space other than the spare tire well 

okay...this is about as far as i am gonna get tonite before passing out and going to bed...will try to get some more stuff typed up tommorow...

before i go, rounding out my equipment list is a Rockford Fosgate 8250Ti headunit and Seas Lotus Reference 6.5" two way set

aight off to bed...


----------



## brendan 67 (Mar 12, 2007)

Looking foward to the rest of the build.I always like seeing your work.


----------



## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

I must follow this!..
I also have a wagon (Holden (Opel) Astra) and have just redone my install..

Was going to keep as much space as I could, but that plan went out the window in the end.. 

Looking forward to the next installment! 

Mark


----------



## Blazemore (Dec 1, 2006)

What's the gas mileage average with mods? Clean motor and love the Porsche 911 style tips.


----------



## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

subscribed


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I love sleepers


----------



## dozy_production (Mar 22, 2006)

After all the money into the car to make it go faster why would you want to add weight to it to make it that much slower?


----------



## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

dozy_production said:


> After all the money into the car to make it go faster why would you want to add weight to it to make it that much slower?


Because now it goes faster _and_ sounds great


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

dozy_production said:


> After all the money into the car to make it go faster why would you want to add weight to it to make it that much slower?


I always wonder that, especially all the Evo's with bumpin systemz. Maybe it's removable for "track day"


----------



## fredridge (Jan 17, 2007)

think of it this way, you have a car you like the performance on, but you really want a nice audio system......how do I have the same performance when I add all that weight...... upgrade the performance




dozy_production said:


> After all the money into the car to make it go faster why would you want to add weight to it to make it that much slower?


----------



## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

I can't wait until the build begins


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

lol...i am not as hardcore into performance as you may think, virtually all my power mods were done via trade with a performance shop (i did a stereo in one of their cars and they did stuff on mine) hehe

see, my way of thinking is totally different, i see the car modding hobby as a whole, as a COMPROMISE, its always a compromise...and the goal is to make the best compromise possible so the car is osmething i end up enjoy.

so my goal is to have a car thats pretty fast and have a good system and can haul lots of stuff, as far as adding weight to slow the car down, umm...thats not relaly a factor now is it?

taking away the heavy full size spare i had, the tools and all the other stuff in the spare tire well, i would guestimate that weight gained by this system is somehwere around 40-50 lbs total...that translates to about 3 horsepower guys...you get more difference with a hot day or a slightly crappy gas  plus, the weight is towards the back of my car, whcih if i was really anal, i can argue that it helps my weight distribution 

i expected the guys on like the Evo or 350z forum to have this sentiment, but didnt think i'd hear it on diyma  I am surprised no one said "why did you do all the power mods to a wagon, if you wanted to go fast should have started with a faster, lighter car"...


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> i expected the guys on like the Evo or 350z forum to have this sentiment, but didnt think i'd hear it on diyma  I am surprised no one said "why did you do all the power mods to a wagon, if you wanted to go fast should have started with a faster, lighter car"...


Because people here understand the need for a vehicle for utilitarian purposes


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay, got some more time...

lets move to te headunit portion.

Becuase the legacy GT has a one piece circuit board with AC and stereo, its very difficult and expesnive to try and install a headunit into the stock location. IN addition, i intend to leave the stock system completely intact (as before), so i can provide A/B demo to potential clients if needed.

so the other solution is to mount the headunit in the stock cubby spot in the upper/center dash, between the AV vents...

so firstly, the wires needed for the new headunit, along with an antenna adapter, was extended to the upper cubby spot, i used female/male quick disconnects for easy removal and service of the new headunit:










next here is the Denford's wiring harness organized and protected:










what you see on the left is the stock ac/vent cubby piece, with the cubby removed, and on the right is the JDM AVO singl din dash adapter piece that allows a headunit to be fitted, it needs to be trimmed a bit and parts of the dash structures needs to be cut off, but its a great solution for the legacy GT.










here are the two pieces mated together:










here of course, is the unit itself:










and the rcas all bundled up and protected, as i will not be using them. the unit has simblink style balanced Din outputs, that i will be tapping directly into to connect with the DSP6.










here are hte brackets for the AVO kit attached to the unit:










remote wire techflexed and ready to go:










the simblink cable similarly done:










all the wires lead out to the spot and ready to mount headunit:










and the headunit secured with all the wires attahced:


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

here are an assortment of other wires that are techflexed for running to the back of the car:




























and a few quick shots of the wiring as it goes to the back of hte car:





























okay, gonna do some more work, try to post some more when i get back


----------



## Vestax (Aug 16, 2005)

I like how the parliaments and bic is nearby when you need it.


----------



## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

dozy_production said:


> After all the money into the car to make it go faster why would you want to add weight to it to make it that much slower?


A modest stereo like Bing is installing weighs less than one cute chickie, what's the worry about 50-100 pounds on a 3400 pound wagon?


Bing, as always, waiting to see the finished result, I'm sure it'll be sweet.


----------



## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Simplicity in sound....looks like I'll be doing something similar unless Highline comes out with a dash HAC unit solution before I buy my LGT. Lookin good so far.

Tell me, do they still make the LGT wagon? I cant seem to find specs on new ones....


----------



## jayhawkblk (May 29, 2007)

hey B where did you get the exhaust tips I need those on my xB


----------



## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Very nice... I love _shaggin_ wagons!!!  I still miss my '97 Accord Wagon! I'm tuned in, waiting for more pics!


----------



## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

^I'll bet it's a fast ass wagon that can probably run 12's


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

highline does make a double din adapter, but at over 1000 bucks a pop, it seems a bit too much for me, plus i am just doing a signle din anyway and having it up high seems a bit more sensible 

no, the LGT wagon version was dropped from the subaru line up for 07  only made in 06 and 05 iwth the EJ25 motor 

marquies, i cnat remember, some website who sold techart or something like that, i can try digging it up, its been almost 3 years with them on there...

b


----------



## openhelix (Jun 5, 2008)

that looks great! do you run/work at a shop or just do this for fun?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i run my own custom audio install business  see the link in my sig.

the car should run high 12s, but the biggest issues is that with the mods, the car's tranny doenst react fast enough in first gear full acceleration and hits the rev limiter, we then removed the first gear rev limiter but guess hwat, it still revs too fast and it hits hte fuel cutoff  so that means i have to manually using hte steering wheel buttons to shift if i were to do a full run, and i dont think i can get it right a lot, so most likely, i will run low to mid 13s for the majority of the time and maybe once in a blue moon, when i shift perfectly, it will dip into the high 12s hehe


----------



## openhelix (Jun 5, 2008)

Ahhh, very cool. I live in Santa Clara and have a C6. The recent C6 install you did looks great!! If my F90BT comes in in time I'm planning to do a very simple install over the 4th of July weekend.


----------



## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

Beautiful car. I really like the LGT wagons. Used to have a 1.8T Jetta Wagon, but didn't work well with 2 carseats, so it had to go. Sure was fun though, and the same look as yours with silver and tinted windows.
Can't wait to see how the install comes together.


----------



## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Sweet car.

You should consider African flamethrower security if you haven't already, imo.


----------



## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Yer Wagon is KILLER!!!
honestly I like the Legacy GT wagons better than the WRXs of that era. 
I can't wait to see the results of your install.

SUBSCRIBED!!!


----------



## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

I also like yer Porsche look alike exhaust tips!!!


----------



## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

> it still revs too fast and it hits *hte fuel cutoff *


Can we say zener diode

Some people pay big bucks for 3 hp 

Nice wideband  have the same one in my car.. what is the gauge to the right?

Sleepers for the win however a whistling subi does not qaulify unless you're *THAT* inept


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

BoostedNihilist said:


> Can we say zener diode
> 
> Some people pay big bucks for 3 hp
> 
> ...



the one on the left is the aquamist meth injection guage, boost in the middle, uego on the right...

i was under the impression that hte zener diode would only help when engine detects too hgih a boost level and cut fuel, what i am hitting is the RPM limiter fuel cutoff at around 7500 RPM (redline is at 6500)...i would think that a zener diode would not help there, as in first gear now, even if i dont boost and just hold it in first in manual mode, and slowly rev up, it will still hit this fuel cut off at around 7500 rpm even with no boost. no? if i misunderstood it, let me know, cuase i would love to find a solution to this but as far as i know, with the 5eat tranny of our cars, wtih similar mods as me and the lightweight pulley, no one hsa been able to figure it out 

hehe, my car doesnt whistle, the GFB hybrid doesnt make much noice, which is why i choose it, infact, i would prefer it doesnt make naynoise at all, but my stock BOV leaks at high boost hehe...but all it does is a sound of ai going out, like the sound of an instake...marginally louder  you can add a whistling trumpet to it should you wish to fly above the radar.

juts got back from marvs not too long ago, gonna rest a bit and keep updating this

b


----------



## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

> i was under the impression that hte zener diode would only help when engine detects too hgih a boost level and cut fuel, what i am hitting is the RPM limiter fuel cutoff at around 7500 RPM (redline is at 6500)...i would think that a zener diode would not help there, as in first gear now, even if i dont boost and just hold it in first in manual mode, and slowly rev up, it will still hit this fuel cut off at around 7500 rpm even with no boost. no? if i misunderstood it, let me know, cuase i would love to find a solution to this but as far as i know, with the 5eat tranny of our cars, wtih similar mods as me and the lightweight pulley, no one hsa been able to figure it out


yeah, apparently I can't read.. you have it exactly right. I don't know much about the LGT but an STi I worked on recently had a really cool accessport tuner.. you could pick a program with the settings you want (such as rev limiter) and just load it in... I think it was made by cobb tuning. Way easier the deal with compared to my setup.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the AP is the first mod we subaru guys get, but i am a bit beyond it, my car is dyno tuned and then the maps loaded to my AP, so i can switch it to a few different maps depending on a few things  but i have zero control over the tranny shifting thing  coming from volvo turbo tuning before my subaru, i do agree the control you have with the AP is great, though it is a more expensive than my volvo for ECU tuning  my 850 T5 went up 50hp and 60flt/lbs with a 250 dollar ecu tune hehe 

the LGT has the same block as the Sti, but different turbo, plumbing and other stuff means we start wtih 250bhp to their 300ish hehe...


----------



## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Yeah, yeah, yeah... enough of the engine mod talk... let's get back to the audio stuff!  j/k

I had a '97 WRX with full Motec engine management, Apexi N1 adjustable suspension, 6 pot Brembo's on the front with 13" rotors and lots of other mods that I used mainly for circuit work until 2002 (I got married!).
I miss that car when I see and hear of other Subaru's.. 

Mark


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay, lets continue. I always felt that each install, especially the stealth ones, is like a jigsaw puzzle, you get an overall picture and slowly piece it together by making the individual components. The most important aspect IMO, is the overall picture in my head, without that, then i really am lost. 

so...tackling htis install is sorta like working with a really small puzzel interms of overall size, yet having many many pieces to it...

so the first thing is to figure out the one component that takes up the most amount of space, and pretty much will dictate how the entire install will be fitted, in that is, the sub box.

after some quick measuring, it quickly became apparent that the ONLY way for everything to fit int he well is to make a pancake flat subbox. luckily, i had a very large spare tire well 

here is the well after the old system was removed:



















so i used a box and measured out about .9 cub feet with peanuts:










and put it into the well, and as you can see, it stacked up about 2" high when laying flat:










then the height was mapped, the buttom bluetapped, and the line draw across to mark the heigh for glassin'










so here is after 8-10 layers of 3/4 oz mat goes on:



















and here is the top baffle piece made:










and the bottom mold piece trimmed.










some dampening while i am at it:










and sorry about htis part, cause i skipped a few steps and didnt take pics, but here is the box with the top part joined with the bottom and test fitted in the spare tire well:










i took a second measurement with kitty litter and found the internal air space to be around .8 or so, which is right around where i wanted it to be 

more later on today, off to dim sum!! woot!


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

okay, moving on...

one thing i decided very early on to do, despite the fact that it was going to make my already crowded install even more difficult, was to show case some clean wiring via barrier strips and distribution blocks, as well as to use some edge lit plexi to set things off. The reason i wanted to include these aspects into the car is not really my own preference, but i wanted the ability to demonstrate some of my installation skill set to a potential client...as it is much easier and effective, for example, to show what edge lit plexi looks like than trying to describe it...

so anyway, here is the start of the construction of the U shaped piece that would make up the side walls of the install...hard to explain, i guess just follow the pics.

each side piece is acutally made out of three pieces, first the two sides were lined up wtih the custom routed center plexi pieces, and holes were drilled onto the back MDF where wires will be passing through.










and then, the frontal piece is made out of 1/2" mdf as well, and an opening was routed out, and slanted, to match the opening on the plexi piece:










then, skipping over a bunch of steps where i forgot to take pics lol, here is the bulk of the pieces test fitted together, and marked, the frontal portion of the U is pre drilled also for the wires of the DSP6 to pass through, you can tell by the markings on the floor piec where each piece will go:










then the side pieces, including hte plexi border and the back piece with the grommits, are test fitted:




























and mounted ontop of the subbox, to check for clearances...so pretty tight already, without any of hte wires ran yet 










next come the vinyl part...i chose to do the back in two tone black and silver CF vinyl, again, not neccessarily for my own preference, but to those of some of my customers in the recent past. Its very easy to explain what suede or single color vinyl looks like, but its kinda hard to pass on what the CF vinyl looks like in real life, plus it blends well with the black and silver theme i have on the rest of hte car hehe...

so here is the U piece:










and covered in black CF vinyl:










the back of the side pieces:










covered in silver CF vinyl and grommits installed:










the side plexi clouded:










and million (RGB) led strips attached to the outter edge:










the thin floor piece also covered in silver CF vinly:


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so here comes the pain...i mean...wires 

here is the bulk of hte racks sitting together, all vinyled, and all the preliminary wires ran and lead out. a keen eye will notice that the barrier strip closer to the camera is empty, and indeed it is there solely for cosmetic balancing purposes, as there are TWO D blocks on the driver side, there should be TWO barrier strips as well on the passener side)...

so as you can see, a ton of wires already  and not even counting the ones that comes from the CAR, these are just the ones running to and from the rack itself 

here is an all around view of this:





































to prevent any bare MDF to show through any joints between the silver floor piece and the black side walls, the box was painted black at those areas...most likely this made zero difference, but i am a bit anal sometimes 










a grounding spot was chose on the driver side and the metal ground bare:


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so now the real fun begins, as the wiring coming from the front of hte car joins the fray...

its really hard to explain just how many wires are on the PASSENGER side of the install, 3 simblink calbes in, 3 simblink out adapting to 3 rca cables...speaker wires.. etc etc...took a while to get things at least some hwat organized and the space taken up minimized... i will just let the next few pics do the talking:




























next comes the mounting of the various components into the well...

i had a good friend of mine make me two spacer blocks out of aliuminum, this will provide a very solid footing for the A4 amp that will be suspending over the smaller A5 amplifier:










so first up is the DLS ultimate A5 big three 3 channel amplifier. this unit will send 85 watts a piece to my tweeters upfront, and power the subwoofer with 780 watts at 1ohm, all class AB  not ehte wires for the dsp6 was ran as well.



















here is a brighter pic to give you a closer look at the wiring leading to the A5


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

then, the A4 4 channel was installed, this amp is briedged and powers the midbasses with about 250 watts rms.










and the wiring:










and then, we skip a head a few more steps...and now the sub and the DSP6 are wired up as well, so this is the raw install finished, wihtout any of the top cosmetic panels:




























so naturally, the next thing to do is to make the top floor...

first, a piece was cut with the opening shaped the way i wanted, and apiece of plexi was routed to match the opening:










the mdf piece was then slant routed and sanded, and opening was cut onto the upper right hand corner for my logo










then, two side pieces were built matching the shape of hte stock foam floor pieces...here is everything back together in the car before vinyling:










so next, the main MDF floor piece:










was covered in black CF vinyl as well:










the piece of clouded plexi attached:










and the led strips were attached to the outside edges and then black tape was put down to prevent any light "leakage"










so this basically is where i stopped taking pics of hte progress in the back, as you can pretty well imagine, the two side little pieces were covered in black vinyl as well, and thats it...time to move onto the front


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so...onto the front stage construction...and here i got really lazy with the camera so i apologize in advance.

i was determined to make the biggest kicks possible given the space and cosmetic restrictions...so a relatively lrage back mold was taken, integrating the stock kick panel pieces into them:










here ist he mold out of hte car after drying overnight:










then the baffle was trimmed and some dampening attached:










two MDF baffles with flush mount rings were carefully aimed and attached to the back molds:










and here again, skipping a few steps where mold cloth was attahced, and resined and reinforced, here are the kicks, ready to covered in black suede:










the Seas mid is wired up and ready to go:










i covered the kicks with black suede, and did a silver CF vinly trim around the speakeres, and here is passenger side kick pretty much finihsed.










and of course the same thing with the driver side:



















and finally, a two piece grille was made to protect and hide the speakres:










thats all for tonite, going to bed, should have the last part up tommorow


----------



## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Looking fantastic so far.. 

Looking forward to the rest of the build pics..

Are the kicks fully sealed, or did you vent them to the carpet/pillar? I see you cut the backs out, but wondering where you vented?

Mark


----------



## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

You, sir, are quite a talented installer. Beautiful work.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hey mark, all my kicks are the same, they vent into both the carpet and the area behind the stock kick, as wide of a swath as possible  

one thing the pics dont show is the huge amounts of clay in the kicks, with another layer of dampening on top


----------



## BoostedNihilist (Mar 3, 2008)

Nice work so far!


> the AP is the first mod we subaru guys get, but i am a bit beyond it, my car is dyno tuned and then the maps loaded to my AP, so i can switch it to a few different maps depending on a few things but i have zero control over the tranny shifting thing coming from volvo turbo tuning before my subaru, i do agree the control you have with the AP is great, though it is a more expensive than my volvo for ECU tuning my 850 T5 went up 50hp and 60flt/lbs with a 250 dollar ecu tune hehe


Yeah, sometimes the extra expense is worth it. I am stuck with a speed density system... there is a bit of electronic work I can do to my socketed ecu, but lots of the tuning is still done with rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors, and advanced timing


----------



## dvflyer (May 11, 2007)

Lookin' good.


----------



## birdie2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Looks good, you make it look easy.


----------



## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

it sounds just as good as it looks. Great job.

Even though it wasn't your own personal sound, I thought it was nice and lively.


----------



## mobeious (Jan 26, 2007)

amazing bro awsome work


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

now unto the tweeter mounts.

first, a ring baffle was carefully aimed and attached tot he stock A pillar:










then mold cloth was used and resined:










and finally, bondoed and sanded smooth, ready to be wrapped:










a major issue was trying to find a matching material for the stock A pillar, its this beigeish color and essentially grille cloth, i went through distributor after distributor, no one carried it, so i decided to try something a bit risky, but worth the effort, and that is, to carefully peel off the stock material, and rewrap the new panel with it, hoping that i can line it up correctly and that it stretches enough to cover the new, bulging shape...

so here it goes:










and the first onetook a coupla tries but in the end, i managed to make it work 










tweeter mounted and ready to go!










and the other one as well:










took a while but now i have a perfect match to the stock headliner material 

while i was at it, i decided to make my seas reference tweeter a little different, i took a sponge brush, eld the tweeter upside down, and stubbled it into a silver metalic color...one of those "i am bored, what can i do now" kind of deals hehe but i do beleive i have the only pair of silver reference tweeters around? 

finally, the top floor covering panel was made, its a piece of 1/4" mdf with grille mesh secured on top, the wood was covered with black CF vinyl on the bottom side, and the part where the mesh is seen through the opening is covered with black grille cloth:










here is hwat it looks like from the bottom side, and then the top side was wrapped again with factory matching carpet











okay, so this basically is all the buildup pics that i have...sorry that i missed quite a few steps here and there but hopefully you can fill in the gaps yourself hehe


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

and finally, there really isnt anything to do but to post pics of the end results, these are taken with my crappy camera so sorry if the lighting appears off or is fuzzy hehe...

no more talking i will just post the pics:


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

and finally, a quick video of the LEDs cylcing through their colors 

http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_video.php?viewkey=c0c690931222ff4467bb

thats all folks


----------



## maestro (Jul 7, 2007)

seriously if i was into car audio still i'd pay you to do my install man! your installs are always fuggin the cleanest


----------



## maxxis (Jun 10, 2008)

Mind blowing as usual.

Great install.


----------



## annoyingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

BoostedNihilist said:


> I am stuck with a speed density system...


What's wrong with a MAP system? IMO, it's a FAR better choice for a forced induction system.

<-- And if you really want to get into a pissing match over motors, just look at my avatar 





Ok, back on topic, SIS, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get those LED bars?


----------



## Ianaconi (Nov 11, 2006)

You can find them here: http://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips


----------



## annoyingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

Ianaconi said:


> You can find them here: http://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips


That is awesome. Thank you.


----------



## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

Noticed that the bottom amp doesn't have its label/tag on it, are the amps that close that you had to remove it? Also, how difficult is it to adjust the amps, especially the bottom one? 
Everything looks great, awesome work... however I do have to give you a hard time on a couple points: 
1. Get a new windshield. Or are you keeping that to get some SPL jobs, telling folks you have so much bass that it cracked the windshield?
2. Your mids are screwed in at different angles, i.e. the screws are in different spots from driver's to passenger's side. A little OCD, but noticeable, for me anyway.


BTW, how does it sound? Do you get decent subbass out of it?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Fran82 said:


> Noticed that the bottom amp doesn't have its label/tag on it, are the amps that close that you had to remove it? Also, how difficult is it to adjust the amps, especially the bottom one?
> Everything looks great, awesome work... however I do have to give you a hard time on a couple points:
> 1. Get a new windshield. Or are you keeping that to get some SPL jobs, telling folks you have so much bass that it cracked the windshield?
> 2. Your mids are screwed in at different angles, i.e. the screws are in different spots from driver's to passenger's side. A little OCD, but noticeable, for me anyway.
> ...



1. yeah, i took the tag off cuase its that close, well acutally it would have cleared it without the tab i think, but by a whisker, so i took it of anyway.

2. reaching the gains on the top one obviously is easy, on the bottom one is not too bad either, a skewdriver easily reachs the gains on the front and rear channels, whcih are the only thing one has to touch owning to the DSP6 controlling everything. i have adjusted it a bunch of times (the bottom one) already.

3. about hte windshield haha, i was, well after i got hte first one, i contacted the place, and guess hwat, within 24 hours, i got another one, so i said screw this, just going to wait it out, and sure enought, with in the next 3 months, i got two more chips which thankfully didnt spider out...so i dont wnat to change it and just have it happen all over again...gonna wait prolly until the end of the year and see bout doing it when its about time for inspection hehe

4. you are absolutely right, but i hvae a good reason for that, i ran outta screws, as soon as i get some more time, i am acutally going to fill in the rest of the mounting holes so then it will be identical  i think i was majorly jetlagged from my china trip when i did those and went after the wrong holes haha

5. the subass is superb IMO, its always been a strong point of this car, and thebas sounds much better acutally IMO with the heavy mat in place, i believe its having a loading effect on it.


----------



## shinjohn (Feb 8, 2006)

Bing,
Awesome job as usual. I looked over your install at Marv's and it was incredible! I only wish I could have heard it!
Ping me later on if you ever get some bandwidth. Seeya next time!


----------



## sr20det510 (May 20, 2007)

Bing, a
Awesome install.

This was one of my favorites from the BBQ! Keep up the good work!


----------



## SQCherokee (Mar 5, 2008)

that color cycle video is awsome...who makes that system? Are the lights hookes as one strip? or are they separate and hooked into a module?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the strips have four sodering points, common positive, and neg for the RGB, you soder wires on and lead out to a module, i can have it cycle or stop at any given color 

www.oznium.com


----------



## hemi4me? (Apr 30, 2008)

Your installs are always worth looking at. Thank you for posting pics.

Nicely done!


----------



## johnya84 (Nov 24, 2007)

wow..Nice install Bing


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Let's step back a little bit in your install log. I have a few questions for you:

How the heck did you get the floor mold to stick to this factory panel so well? Drill holes in it to let resin seep through? Will it continue to stick and stay put?









My second question is directly related to a thread I started in the fabrication section. How do you go from this:









To this:









How do you get the cloth to stick to the ABS flush mount rings? Do you simply stretch it over the entire structure, resin it, then cut the opening for the speaker? Or, do you attach cloth to the sides of the flush mount ring somehow then resin the whole thing.

Confused and intrigued...

Ge0


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well:

1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.

2. afer its dried and before the dampening went on, a few more pan head screws went in to furthre help it. then dampeng goes on and its all bonded.

3. no i pull it over the entire ring, resin it, and then trim out the cloth on the inside of hte ring, and from the back, after thoroughly strenthen it with glass, to the poin where the joint between the edge of hte ring and the mold cloth is very hard, i can take a sand paper and sand it smooth, down to what you see i the last pic you linked...

not sure if that made sense?

b


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> well:
> 
> 1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.
> 
> ...


Good enough bing. I can fill in the blanks from here.

Thanks!!!

Ge0


----------



## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> well:
> 
> 1. the plastic panels are heavily scuffed with 36 grit sand paper to make it stick better.
> 
> ...


Oh, one more question. How did you affix the abs strip to the MDF ring before you started glassing? I've got this far (heated and melted the abs around a ring) but for now I have it held in place with small brad nails and wood screws.

Ge0


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice job! I was going to do something similar (as far as show off my skillset/build a car as a resume kinda thing) but I'm on unemployment, so I have a VERY limited budget to work with. So, for the time being, I'm doing the best I can. I really like this install on your car.

I find it funny that your sub box is only like 2" deep and is still .8 cf. 

I was wondering a) What midbasses are you running and did you do anything special with the mounting, and b) where do you get the blue (ABS?) that you used to make your kick panel mounting rings? Is it more flexible that the normal black 1/8" ABS or something?

Thanks.

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

midbass is the seas reference 
as far as special mounting i dont relaly know hwat you mean hehe

blue is low heat plastic, much eaier to heat up and work with than abs. i get it from my local supplier but you can find it at www.selectproducts.com not the cheapest but its there under that name.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

As far as mounting, I just wondered if it was deadened/ensolited/clayed/etc.

Found that blue stuff on SP's site, and it's not *outrageous* at $17 for 24x32"
But I find alot of the stuff they promote as "NEW Installation Products" are really just products from other areas that they mark up and market to us.

We used to work with a product called Centra (or Sentra?) at the last shop I worked at, which might be similar.

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

its deadened, then clayed, then deadened again to the point that each kick weighs around gosh...20-25 lbs? 

yeah thats SP's specialty lol


----------



## Kpg2713 (Feb 10, 2008)

I love the build. I am "trying" to do something similar in my own Subie right now. Your car is my inspiration. Thanks for doing awesome work!


----------



## redfred18t (Oct 2, 2008)

noobish question: why would the magnet and stuff of the sub be exposed?

also, very clean install. Your work is seriously amazing.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Cause the enclosure is only about 2" deep and the sub is deeper. 

Jay


----------



## redfred18t (Oct 2, 2008)

gotchya but doesn't that affect sound quality and stuff


----------



## theothermike (Dec 20, 2006)

negatif you reverse the polarity or phase i believe the inverted driver becomes normal and acts as a normal woofer would


----------



## redfred18t (Oct 2, 2008)

theothermike said:


> negatif you reverse the polarity or phase i believe the inverted driver becomes normal and acts as a normal woofer would


oh so it still works normally, just having the magnet on the outside? That is something I never knew and didn't ask until now


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah, basically, as long as ONE side of hte subwoofer is in an enclosure, its fine...the sub just moves air by its cone going up and down, and one side needs to have the proper air suspension to make it work right...it doesnt matter if its the front or the back.

the usual only dowside is port noise coming out o fhte vent hole in the back, but with how my subwoofer is located, wtih a floor and a mat over it and all the way to the rear, its in audible 

btw the box is slightly more than 2 inches deep hehe, for hte most part its 3 to 3.5  i may have mistyped it...

the entire well is a good 10-10.5" deep


----------



## redfred18t (Oct 2, 2008)

Thats awesome to know. Thanks for the info man!


----------



## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Bing, I was wondering how far in advance our booked?


----------



## WolfSong (Aug 16, 2008)

Very hot... should've been in bed an hour ago but I had to read through and check it out.

I just came from a WRX wagon, but was more performance oriented with that car... not near as tricked out as yours, but a solid stage 2. With the Si I decided to go slower and simpler and enjoy the ride.

When the Legacy GT came out I came really close to buying a wagon too. Loved the styling.

Your build is incredible... gives me some things to aspire to.

Thanks for sharing dude.


----------



## WolfSong (Aug 16, 2008)

Arrgh... I swear I only hit it once.


----------



## Mr. C (Oct 17, 2008)

Great work and great pics and instructions. Install looks absolutely sweet.
Giving me inspiration to finish my system off.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

slvrtsunami said:


> Bing, I was wondering how far in advance our booked?


as of right now, about 5 months or so...just took a deposit on a car for late march/early april of 09...

this is with the slightly lighter workload around the holidays and CES...normal buffer is around 4 month or so, give or take a week or two.

btw, you guys will find it odd prolly, that 90 percent of hte time when i am driving, i have my stereo either off or at minimal volume lol...when i deal with it day in and day out, sometimes, when i drive, i just want o be alone with my boxer rumble  

i would say the only times the system ever gets a work out is for demoing to potential clients hehe...


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

I think the Subie's windshield dont like the tweeters' location ,lol,j/k sweet stuff man.


----------



## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

Exactly which LED strip did you use in this install? Also, what controller do you use?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

http://www.oznium.com/thin-waterproof-ribbon

and

http://www.oznium.com/rgb-led-controller


----------



## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

So awesome to see someone else doing a Subie Wagon!

On the front weather tech floor mats, did you cut them to fit under the kicks?

What is the model # of the Denford Cd player? I've never really seen one before.

*edit* I figured out the Zapco/Audio Control thing... DUH... brain fart

I have enjoyed all your posts Bing.. awesome stuff. Always soo clean & straight forward.

Hoping I can start a log next month on my WRX Wagon.

Rob
2004 WRX Wagon


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Denford...funny. Denon/Rockford? Looks like one of the old Rockford head units (the ones that supposedly could go to the top of the volume scale cleanly)...I assume they were made by Denon...Or am I off base?

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

its hte 8250...one of two i think denon made RF units back in the day, the other being the slightly cheaper, lower pre-amp output 8150. 

as far as going to the top of the scales without clipping, most of the units in the same field should be able to do that, such as the cd700, the z1, 9255, c90/901...i think even the cheaper cd45Z can pull it off 

its nothing that special i would say, i chose it mainly beucase one, all i needed was a clean deck with no features, and two, it matched well with the dash


----------



## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

I was just reading the manual for the Zapco DSP6... interesting piece... I have been so stuck in PXA-Land for the last 3 years... I missed it... 

So in your set up, you are going Symbolink back to the DSP6, converting to RCA for input? then reconverting back to RCA after the DSP6? So you have 6 of the link-to-RCA converters? Am I getting that right? I understand the noise rejection/output level benefit.. 

Have you tried the DSP-SL controler? I know you don't have a place for it in the LGT.. I was just curious how it functions...

Rob
2004 WRX Wagon


----------



## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

Absolutely amazing build. Can't believe I have missed it up until now. I have always considered myself a little odd, Fast 4-doors trump fast 2-doors in my book, and fast wagons trump both  (fast trucks are right up there too though, but thats besides the point lol.) Love the car and love the build for sure. Simply overall yet done absolutely perfect. Giving me plenty of ideas for my truck some day. 

Top notch build just like all your others. Truely inspirational


----------



## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

damm another great install ... I bow down ur skill in using LED  how's that Denon HU treating ya?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

TXwrxWagon said:


> I was just reading the manual for the Zapco DSP6... interesting piece... I have been so stuck in PXA-Land for the last 3 years... I missed it...
> 
> So in your set up, you are going Symbolink back to the DSP6, converting to RCA for input? then reconverting back to RCA after the DSP6? So you have 6 of the link-to-RCA converters? Am I getting that right? I understand the noise rejection/output level benefit..
> 
> ...


you are looking at, i am assuming, the dsp6 manual off the website, that is way outdated, and shows the old version dsp6. the current version has 3 simblink inputs and 3 outputs, no rca level anymore 

so its simblink in, (the 8250 has the same style output jack), and simblink to rca output to amps

b


----------



## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

I love your installs. I wish I had my car with me in Texas right now. I would go start over on it lol.


----------



## Coolness (Mar 2, 2009)

Really great, clean install.

I have an '05 Legacy GT Vagoon myself and am about to take on the audio system. What JDM kit did you use, the navi or the single din (both look the same to me on their website). Also, how difficult was it to take out the cubby?
Finally, did you use a forward and reverse harness for the install to keep the OEM HU installed?

Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## dovogod (Jan 21, 2009)

that is seriously an insane install. Im jealous of the skills


----------



## soggydog (Apr 6, 2009)

Very nice. I'm going to be doing an install on my 350Z, so I'd like to keep it fairly light as well.


----------



## blacksvtf03 (Feb 27, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


>


Awesome install!! One question how do you get those corners so perfectly rounded on your panel cut outs??


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

steady hand and lots of practice with a jigsaw?


----------



## Excellrec (Oct 22, 2007)

Nice work my friend. I'm curious as to how you work with plexiglass. What do you use to cut it? A router? If so what rpm and bit type if it matters. I'm also curious as to what your method of getting your logo on the plexi is as well. 

Finally I'm wondering what the deal is with the kicks. They just have an opening on the back and vent straight into the carpet like that? Do they have much midbass output and power handling capability in that configuration? Thanks!


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

1. i used to use router and plexi bit, now i hate the smell and debris so i just have my local plastic shop route to match a jig i give htem.

2. i always vent kicks, everyone of my installs, provides less midbass coloration. as for midbass and powerhandling  i have 250 per side, and as much as 500 per side in some installs, and midbass is pretty good  as anyone who has heard my car can atest to. much better than if you just seal it fully, cuase unless you can build a huge kick, the coloration that it adds, and the resuling need to turn it down, really makes it hard to tune and reduce your overall midbass impact IMO


----------



## blacksvtf03 (Feb 27, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> steady hand and lots of practice with a jigsaw?


If your doing that with a jig your the man


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

When you say you "vent all your kicks," are you talking into the cavity behind the kick panel or just a hole in the back of the fiberglass directly into the carpet?

I seem to remember (in some of your installs) you left the back of the kick open, but I don't remember seeing anything "vented" into the cavity behind them. And since I have to leave for work in a few, I don't have time to double check.

Thanks,

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i mean none of the kicks i build is fully sealed  follow the same method steve head uses in his installs and a few other guys i know, just letting it breath into the carpet or hte space behind the kick...


----------



## lucas569 (Apr 17, 2007)

im going to try to replicate those tweeter pods, thanks for the ideas! so do yo feel the location is good sonic wise?


----------



## Eiswritsat (Nov 19, 2008)

Looks nice, Great work as always very clean

i have been looking into getting some products from you, but u never reply to my PM's period.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

sorry about that, i get anywhere from 25 to 30 pms and emails a day from people asking questions, i try to answer all of them while also working on cars at the same time...but once in a while i forget about someone. 

i just replied.

b


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I am always amazed at the detail and skill put into every build. You definitely set the bar at a new level everytime!


----------



## lucas569 (Apr 17, 2007)

hey bing who makes those floormats?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

huskyliner i think. its been a while hehe


----------



## lucas569 (Apr 17, 2007)

they look nice, i like the diamond print.


----------



## JoeDirte (Sep 21, 2009)

Looks great. Congrats.


----------



## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

love it all bing!

can you tell me how you got the glass to stick to the plastic? holes?


----------



## lucas569 (Apr 17, 2007)

how do you like this setup compared to your old DLS front stage? is that the optimal location for the tweeters in the LGT? 

im racking my head on what i want to do to my LGT, i dont have the space really (MT) to put big kicks. Was thinking of using the door (for the mids) location and angling them as much as possible...


----------



## Curt941 (Jan 20, 2010)

That looks so sick, and SUPER stealth in the back as well!


----------



## petermakar (Jan 10, 2010)

all yer installs are super clean. great work man... glass sticks to plastic fine if you rough it up REAL good. like with a cutoff wheel instead of sandpaper. "deep-grooves"


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, compared to my old setup, its not really about brand name versus brand name, this is a totally different kind of install 

the old set up had nobelium 6.5" two way run passively off of 85 watts, where as this is the seas, whcih is a much more expesnive set of speaker, running active with 250 watts per midbass and 85 per tweeter. so the sound is quite different. 

as for pillar location, i think if you have the right amplification and the right processor, this location works well in the LGT, but always turst your own ears, to me, its either this location or kicks. and kicks from my old set up does result a bit of rainbowing.

b


----------



## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

Love the look, and of course it's going to be high-standard work if it's demoing to prospective customers...
Only 2 things. I'm surprised the underside of that lid in the boot is just painted. IMO some felt or suede liner wouldn't go astray.
And gas lift struts on the lid too 

Far be it from me to pick on it really though.


----------



## CA4944 (May 2, 2009)

Sorry if you covered this earlier, but what kind of hinge did you use on the cover over the amp and sub?


----------



## whoosh (Sep 17, 2008)

Wow again!


----------



## AKMetal (Mar 3, 2011)

this car is a super sleeper in everything. all you need is some james bond concealed weaponry now.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

how the heck did this get dug back up  car is getting old now, but still hauling its share of MDF every other week


----------



## AKMetal (Mar 3, 2011)

Pretty sure I found it on the first page. I'm trying to build
Something basic for my subie and saw this, totally deserved a compliment. And that 30 post count thing is a killer


----------



## ocblaze (Nov 21, 2009)

Hey Bing i know this is kinda a old build but I have a few questions for you. I am about to begin my false floor build and i want to install the million rgb strips like you did. 

1. How did you cut the plexiglass and mount it to the mdf? 

2. Also how do you "cloud' the plexi, is it just rubbing the plexiglass with sandpaper. If so which grit did you use?

3. How did you attach the led strips to the plexiglass?

Also just so you know your installs are amazing!!!


----------



## sebberry (May 1, 2008)

Hello there Bing, 

I was hoping you could be so kind as to post up a few close-up photos of the power wiring work in the engine bay. About to do my Outback. Thanks!


----------



## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

How have I missed this thread?! Great install in a great car. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

hybridspl said:


> How have I missed this thread?! Great install in a great car. Thanks for sharing!


:bash:


----------



## Fotoshark (Mar 22, 2012)

if this user is still around, props to the build AWESOME and inspiring. 

I was just wondering if you installed any fans or how well the amp performs without overheating due to lack of air flow ? I'm looking to build a false floor in my spare tire well (still keeping the spare tire) just for the amp to hide it and keep some space in my hatch ? I'm just worried that by hiding it under there, that there will not be enough airflow and will pooch my amp 

Thanks! Great work.

- T.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah i am still around  and this system is still around, despite being quite old...virtually unchanged.

most good amps run cold enough that you dont have to worry about it much...i have driven the car on 8 hour drives in traffic on 100 degree days in the summer without any issues. 

the dls A series especially run quite cold.



p.s. i just realized that its going to be 4 years soon for this system hehe, never had a single glitch with it


----------



## Fotoshark (Mar 22, 2012)

Nice very nice! As said in PM's I'll just have to figure out if the amp I have will infact need added cooling or not  Thanks.

- T.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Any plans to replace the subie anytime soon? Wife still got the Kia? It could carry MDF 

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

everytime i think about replacing the subby i kinda dont know what else to get... a truck makes the most sense, but i also would want to make sure this car goes to the right owner, not just trade it in to a dealer...so

we will see...perhaps i will run this thing forever


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I've had a few cars that I said "I'm never selling this." Then I get bored...LOL

I can't think of anything comparable to your Subie either.

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

likely i would etiher go the truck route, or, get another slightly newer version of the same car...but whats the point of that 

everyone of my cars have been driven to well over 100k miles so, i am not the type that gets bored easily hehe


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I drive 86 miles a day, 5 days a week....it doesn't take long to rack up the miles. My current car just hit 70k, and I'll be at 3 years on 4/9/12. Thankfully Hyundai has a 10 yr/100k mile powertrain warranty.

Jay


----------



## marvnmars (Dec 30, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> likely i would etiher go the truck route, or, get another slightly newer version of the same car...but whats the point of that
> 
> everyone of my cars have been driven to well over 100k miles so, i am not the type that gets bored easily hehe


there is no longer a new version of this car...shame too, outback is the only wagon subie makes, and they do not handle like the lower legacy's..
i like the mazda, and they came out with a speed version of the 3 wagon, but that goofy smiling front facia on the bumper is a bit much..


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

oh by slightly newer i meant 06 or 07, last years of the 5 LGT wagon


----------



## focused313 (Apr 19, 2012)

all this time and I never knew about mounting subs with the magnet out, I've seen it before, but I didn't know it could still have the same db output like that.

excellent build. I need to go back and start reading threads just for the wiring aspect, as far as what materials you need to make a very clean install...types of wire connections, clips, etc...


----------



## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

nice install specially the work and the HU


----------



## craigolio1 (Jul 30, 2012)

Hey there. I don't mean to perpetuate your super old thread, but frankly... your install is outstanding.

I have a question. I will be building a similar system in my '01 Outback and was concerned the rubber mat in the back (over the spare tire cover) would vibrate. 

Do you have this problem? 

Thanks, Craig


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i will say this, my subbass sounds much better with the rubbermat in place, infact i dont get judged or demo it without it in place. it provides some much needed loading.  sonically completely transparent.

b


----------



## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

I realize this build is from a few years ago, but this it the first I've seen of it. Very clean.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thanks! yeah shes getting old...i acutally did the build march of 08, so getting close to 4.5 years now...so far so good, everything still works


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Everything still works?!? Amazing what happens when you use quality equipment! haha

Jay


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah i think the passenger side tweeter is finally starting to go...i can hear some scratching on one or two songs, but 99 percent of the material is fine. i give loud demos on it a few times a week....

other than that, nothing has even had an issue, amps never shut down or over heated, sub never blown, despite going for a SPL comp and putting up a 129.9 all by itself (MECA, meaning it would have done over 130 on other formats )...speakrs never blown, dsp still good.

though sadly, msot of the stuff in the car i dont actively sell much anymore...but i dont have the time to go and swap it. hehe. maybe my next car if someone buys her


----------



## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Can you put a 6.5" speaker in that kick? I'm assuming thats a 5.25" speaker. 

Did you oversize it just to showcase the carbon print vinyl or for possible future expansion? 

If you didn't I just gave everyone a great idea.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

that is a 6.5  

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Finleyville (Jun 17, 2005)

Fantastic install, but you already knew that...lol

About your Seas Lotus 165's, I have used mine in stock door locations with 100W a piece active and have been very dissatisfied with their output in a 2-way system. Do you feel they need upwards of 200-250W to stand out? I am asking cause I am ready to sell mine for the lack of output.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah the refs really want more than 100 watts, all seas infact...i would put at least 150 if not 200 watts to them.

my car has no real issue with output...especially on the midbass department...among the strongest midbasses i have heard.

b


----------



## Radius (May 22, 2011)

Wow... If I didn't already have a Mazda 6 wagon I've been working on for a while and had the money I'd have to seriously consider your wagon. It's great to see so many wagon fans here. Most people wonder what I'm doing building a wagon. 

That being said, I have some questions about the edge lighting if you have a few moments.

1: Is the top plexi flushed with the top mdf piece. If so, how did you mount the plexi to the mdf and leave room for the LEDs?

2: Why frost the plexi? Is the light distributed better with the plexi frosted?

Although I would love to use the CF vinyl, or other vinyl for my build, I already have carpet so carpet it is. But for possible future use I'd love to know where you get it.

Thanks,
Michael


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Radius said:


> Wow... If I didn't already have a Mazda 6 wagon I've been working on for a while and had the money I'd have to seriously consider your wagon. It's great to see so many wagon fans here. Most people wonder what I'm doing building a wagon.
> 
> That being said, I have some questions about the edge lighting if you have a few moments.
> 
> ...



1. its secured via screws, its flush routed with the mdf so it matches

2. i frosted it to achieve a more even glow rather than spotting

3. i get CF vinyl from selectproducts 

b


----------



## Radius (May 22, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> 1. its secured via screws, its flush routed with the mdf so it matches
> 
> b


Sorry, I am having a hard time visualizing this. 

Wait.. Is the plexi thicker than the mdf? That would allow you to route out a flange so that the center (thickest) part of the plexi would sit inside the MDF cut out. Then use screws through the "flange" into the mdf with the LEDs mounted here?

Thanks,
Michael

edit: I just looked at the pics again. I now realize the plexi is not flush with the top cover. It's recessed. Correct?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Wait..a bit confused...which plexi r u talkin about? The edgelit border? That sits below the floor...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

simplicityinsound said:


> that is a 6.5
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


Then I guess you could fit an 8" in those kicks.

The kicks didn't look that big in pics by themselves.....I must have posted and not remembered that when installed you can tell they're 6.5" speakers.

So I guess you _*could*_ fit 8's in them kicks.....but if you could get nice enclosures built in the doors that would be a better route.

Not a bad idea then you could showcase one more example of install skills with some nicely made re-built door panels.....covered in black suede....nice.


----------



## Tominizer (Jul 5, 2012)

Mini Cooper S Wagon (aka Clubman). Look impressive with a roof rack and 4x8 sheets of MDF on top. Ask me how I know. 

Nice work. I like it. Most impressive part is its age though. I luv installs that stand the test of time.:laugh:


----------



## Radius (May 22, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> Wait..a bit confused...which plexi r u talkin about? The edgelit border? That sits below the floor...
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


Both actually, but mainly I was talking about the largest piece on the top.

At first I thought you had mounted the plexi in such a way so that the top surface was flush with the top surface of the mdf.

Closer inspection of the pics revealed that I was incorrect. The plexi is mounted below the routed opening. So now I understand how you mounted it and installed the LEDs.

Michael


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Radius said:


> Both actually, but mainly I was talking about the largest piece on the top.
> 
> At first I thought you had mounted the plexi in such a way so that the top surface was flush with the top surface of the mdf.
> 
> ...


Yeah there is no plexi.window on top..u can reach down and touch everything in the well 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Radius (May 22, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> Yeah there is no plexi.window on top..u can reach down and touch everything in the well


Ok.. Now I understand perfectly..

Apparently I need to pay more attention to the pics. Guess I was tired or something. 

Michael


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Radius said:


> Ok.. Now I understand perfectly..
> 
> Apparently I need to pay more attention to the pics. Guess I was tired or something.
> 
> Michael


you will be surprised how many think there is a plexi window...

including people who see the car IN PERSON...when i ask them to go and feel for the second amp under the top one, i usually get a somewhat confused look like i just asked them to reach through a solid surface...


----------



## Zero Gauge (May 29, 2012)

That is a solid build. Nice work!

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fnlow (Nov 29, 2011)

I love this install Bing- it must be hard to put it up for sale.

I wanted to ask a question regarding bridging the DLS A4 to the midbass- does the RCA input need to be split and fed to both front and rear inputs? I'm assuming it does need to be split. Ie the amp doesn't sum the signal. 

From memory the instruction manual says something vague along the lines of 'if source only has one rca output 'Y' splitter cable must be used'.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah the A series has no way to sum or paralell the inputs, so anything and everything had to be done with Ys


----------



## fnlow (Nov 29, 2011)

Thanks Bing, it seems strange that given that is the case DLS chose to put the inputs at the opposite ends from each other. Probably means making up some cables myself.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah the input setup on the A series was always a bit odd...but, it is waht it is 

b


----------



## fnlow (Nov 29, 2011)

How should I be splitting the signal B ?

For example should the Left signal be split to both left inputs, or should the Left signal be sent to both front inputs etc etc....

I should have asked this question elsewhere, but I thought I would ask now while I have your ear!


EDIT I think I'm over complicating this. Front channels become either left or right and rears become the opposite. Yes?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the way my car is run. LEFT from DSP Y split into FRONT channels of A4, RIGHT from DSP Y split into REAR channels of A4

but down there since you guys are upside down it may be the opposite


----------



## fnlow (Nov 29, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> the way my car is run. LEFT from DSP Y split into FRONT channels of A4, RIGHT from DSP Y split into REAR channels of A4


Thanks Bing! Sorry for cluttering up your thread.



simplicityinsound said:


> but down there since you guys are upside down it may be the opposite


Easy fixed.... I will install the amp upside down


----------



## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

Did she ever sell?


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah, she went to a great owner a coupla months back.

now sitting on a much improved suspension and BBK, so now its got real handling prowess to go with all the power 

b


----------



## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> yeah, she went to a great owner a coupla months back.
> 
> now sitting on a much improved suspension and BBK, so now its got real handling prowess to go with all the power
> 
> b


So what'd you replace it with and when are we going to see the awesomeness from that install?


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I don't mean to text out of turn, but I believe that he ended up with a Dodge Ram. Now someone please chime in if I am wrong.


----------



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yup


----------



## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

Probably a lot easier to carry MDF in a Ram!


----------

