# 04 TSX Build (JDM Accord Conversion)



## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

****Admins and Mods Please do not delete the next 23 posts as I am making space so I can continuously post all the pictures in a row. Thank You****

Ok well this is documenting the stereo build in my Acura TSX. I had build the car exterior, interior, suspension, brakes, wheels, motor already so far and was just running a sub with the stock stereo. I have now decided to do the entire stereo. If you want to see the entire documented build of the whole car you can see it here Complete build thread of my JDM TSX - Honda-Tech. I decided against posting everything cause of the 10 image limit per post already is making it hard to post just the stereo with how much I document things. Stages 1-8 are covered in that thread.

*Stage 9a – Start of test Install*
Pictures is the start of my newest project a fiberglass sub box. If it turns out good I will be making one for the other side of the car as well. Lot of work to come stillon it though.

*First Layer*









*Second Layer*


















*My Drying System due to 32 degree weather*









*Had to cut all the tape to get it out*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*After all tape remove and another layer of resin applied*













































*Trimmed down to size and ready for next step*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Stage 9b - Parts*
Well here is the next phase of what is most likely or at least for the foreseeable future going to be a never ending project. I have upgraded almost everything possible and I am starting to get sick of the factory stereo so I figured it was time to address that. With replacing the entire factory stereo besides the headunit I also wanted to redo my trunk setup. Nothing extremely fancy and it hasn't even been started but I will try to explain it. The one thing I wanted to be able to put in the trunk was the Carbing Trunk Brace so the stereo will be designed around allowing that fit in the trunk. To install the Carbing Trunk Brace you have to install some bolts from the underside of the car. For me this is a problem cause it means I have to remove the rear diffuser which is a pain. So I also decided to finally install a rear sway bar. I chose to go with the progress rear sway cause the only other one I would have went with was a Swift rear sway bar but it is not as thick. Since I wanted to start planning the stereo as soon as possible I had the Carbing Trunk Brace EMS shipped direct from Carbing and since the cost wasn't much more to add another item I ordered the Carbing Rear Floor Brace as well. 

Now onto the audio equipment. I am using all Memphis Audio gear. Since I am using the factory radio still I am using Memphis's OEM called the 6ix interface device that give you a clean signal from the factory headunit. I am using their 6.5" MClass Components up front and their 6.5" MClass Synchronous Components in the rear. The amp I am using is the Memphis Big Belle which is a 5 channel amp putting out 4 x 75 watts @ 4 ohms and 1 x 1100 watts @ 1 ohm. The 1100 watts from the sub channel will be split to two Memphis M3 subwoofers. The Memphis Big Belle is a massive amp as well and 30in wide. I am going to try to figure out some way to mount it raised about 3-5 in above the Carbing Trunk Brace along the back of the rear seat at an angle. Obviously though I will not even consider mounting it to the Carbing brace. There will be one sub in each corner of the trunk in fiberglass enclosures facing the opening of the trunk. This is all going to take a long time to install so hopefully in a month or so I will have some pics of the beginning of the install. Until then the pictures of all the gear are below.


*The entire conglomerate*










*Carbing Trunk Brace*










*Carbing Rear Floor Brace*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Progress Rear Sway Bar*





































*Memphis Audio 6ix Interface*




























*Memphis Audio 6.5" MClass Synchronous Components*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Memphis Audio 6.5" MClass Components (cast baskets are hot I almost want to reverse mount them so they show)*














































*Memphis Audio M3 Subs*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Memphis Audio Big Belle (It evens tests to put out more output than it claims, also uses an external fuse rather than an internal fuse 200amps)*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Memphis OAWG Amp Kit (Crazy how much stuff comes with it)*













































*One four channel and One two channel RCA set*









*One Battery Terminal, One fuse holder with 250amp fuse, Two distribution blocks (Most likely wont use the terminal and keep using my stinger ones with displays)*


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)




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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

B]Stage 9c – PnP Harness[/B]
I decided to make my own mercman harness so that I could pull the balance audio signal the the tsx factory headunit uses cause my amp is able to utilize this and thus helps prevent noise. I made the harness plug and play in the sense that I unplug the factory harness and plug this harness into the headunit and then plug the original harness into the other end of my PnP harness. By doing this I only pull the audio signals and allow other things in the harness to pass through to where they belong. I also taped into the factory amp turn on wire and split out a lead for my new amp turn on wire. The rcas are made with high end twisted pair shielded 22 gauge microphone cable. The harness is wrapped in techflex then. The speaker harness is from a 2006 civic si and gives me connection to all the factory speaker wiring. I know I should replace the factory wiring which I will probably do at a later date but currently getting it installed as soon as possible is the current goal.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)




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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)




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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

My tools for the job


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Stage 10 – Phase 1 Primary Install*
Ok so this past week over spring break I began my system install. One of the main reasons I am redoing my system is I obviously want to replace the rest of the speakers for better sound but the main reason of redesigning my trunk setup is to make room for the Carbing trunk brace. Here the brace laid in place and also the remains after the removal of the old system.




















It was cold out so I used my parents porch heater to heat the garage up. Worked very well and kept the garage nice and warm during the days it was around 20 degrees out.











I removed a portion of the interior panels and the front and rear seats along with my old setup in the trunk as well. I then taped off the entire rear of the car as to not scratch anything while working on it. I began the mold for the second sub enclosure first so that it would have time to dry while I wired the car. I did three coats of mat and resin for the new mold and still need to add a coat or two of just resin to add some thickness to the box and strengthen it.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

I then ran the custom plug and play harnesses down the middle of the car and left them at the rear seat.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

I also had to drop the rear diffuser so that I could install the Progress and got the Progress rear sway bar installed with the help of my friend Brent (MemphisTSX).















































I dynamatted each door lightly before installing each speaker then. The specs for the size speakers that could be used in the tsx were far from right from metra. The specs were clearly measured with the windows up. Also the tsx speakers are so small the holes need to be severely enlarged to accommodate the new speakers. I enlarged the holes using tin snips as I did not want to use a dremel and end up with lots of metal filings in the doors. I also needed to use spacers to prevent contact with the window. This was accomplished using generic speaker spacers by metra that I had to custom modify to fit the speakers that were even to large for the 6.5” speaker spacers. I used metra Honda connector adapters so I did not have to cut any of the factory wiring. I installed the front woofers in the doors, the rear woofer and tweeter combo component along with the rear crossovers in each rear door. The front tweeters I had glued into the factory grills. My local shop suggested that if I didn’t plan to ever put the factory tweeters back in to cut the connectors off them so that I could make a plug and play harness for the new tweeters as well since one is not available. This also helps cause there is like no slack in the OEM tweeter wires. Since I had the speaker harness adapter from a civic run to the trunk, the front crossovers were then mounted in the trunk instead of the front door. 

Dynamat


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Speaker Comparison


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Custom Speaker Spacers


















Custom MDF Spacer Cause I miss placed the other plastic 1in spacer and didn’t want to keep looking for it. I have since found the other plastic spacer though.


















Installing Door Speakers


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Had to cut a little bit of the plastic around the speaker grill away to allow for the door panel to fit back on since using the speaker spacer.































































Custom Tweeter Install and Harnesses


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)




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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

For the amp rack design I decided to do something simple so not to take away from the Carbing brace. I decided to mount it in front of where the Carbing trunk brace will be mounted. I didn’t want to just mount it flat so I decided to mount it at a 15 degree angle instead. I am using the OEM trunk carpet for the false floor so that it has perfect fitment with the floor. I designed a base inside the spare tire compartment and then created vertical supports to support the weight of the amp. I then reinforced the OEM insert with a 1/2in thick piece of MDF. I made 4 sloped 2 inch risers to support the amp that lined up with the reinforcement board. I then cut 3 ovals to run the wires up bellow the amp between each of the four slopped supports. I mounted the front crossovers and the amp external fuse on the hidden floor under the false floor. The amp is currently mounted on a 1/2 in piece of MDF which will be replaced with a 1/2 in piece of frosted plexi that will be lighted up in either blue or whilte LEDs. The ground wire in the picture was not long enough for the install so it is currently routed incorrectly in the pictures for test purposes. The power wire is correctly run under the false floor but the wire to the battery was run outside the car for test purposes as well. I unfortunately forgot to take pictures while making the amp mount but will take pictures of it when I install the plexi piece instead.

Panel Under False Floor









False Floor









Wiring Below


















On the top of this picture you can see the holes for the wires that were cut in the false floor below the amp rack.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Lights on the Amp










The plug and play harness did not work correctly and I believe there are issues in the RCA connectors so I will be ordering new one to try again cause I believe they are touching as they tripped my amp into safety mode. I tested the system using my iPod directly connected to the amp and putting the amp in 2ch input mode. All speakers play perfectly and the sound quality is amazing without even having tuned the system yet. Hopefully in the next month I will get some more of the system completed.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

*Stage 11 – Phase 2 Primary Install*
Well I went home again this weekend and got another day worth of work done on the car. I figured out what was wrong with the RCA plug and play cable and now I have sound from the factory head unit. I tested it again with the power wire run outside the car and I have no signal noise. I then proceed to run the power wire through the firewall through a large grommet in the middle of the firewall for the primary harness to the interior. I had to make a slit in the grommet and then fed the 0 gauge wire through and into the interior. It comes out near the back of the radio and then was run down the passenger side. 

In through the firewall









Most likely path to battery













































Here you can see better the design of the amp rack and how the wires are run to the amp


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Amp wiring finished in the trunk









Engine portion covered in wire loom and zip tied to factory harness to blend in








































































I then realized that the amp which I would be running in the end at 1ohm to output 1100 watts to two subs could run at 2ohms and output 550watts. This is only 50 watts more than my old amp output at 2ohms so I installed my old sub box for now so I could have a complete sounds system for the time being till I finish the fiberglass boxes.










After the sub was installed I took the car for a spin and noticed I have a terrible engine whine which I did not when testing the car with the power wire ran outside of the car. This is an issue to be cause the purpose of using the harness design I made was to eliminate the engine whine. I believe the reason for the engine whine is because the power wire runs directly behind the headunit basically. So I may end up rerouting the power wire under the car instead so that I can eliminate the engine whine.


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## NOFATTYS (Jan 5, 2009)

post 24


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Once the wiring was done I could finally install the Carbing floor brace since I was done working on the interior. Even with the brace set at the smallest setting it is still a very tight fit to get past the plastic B pillar panels. The way the bar fits though it would be extremely hard to put the panels back in after the bar was installed. I unfortunately scraped the one new side panel during the install but it should always hopefully be covered by the seat. I tightened the bar till it was extremely tight against the sides of the car. I have no idea whether it is over tightened or if that Is possible.























































The euro r floormats still fit in under the bar but just barely.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

My Dad wanted the rest of his garage back so he didn’t have to worry about possibly knocking something over and denting the car or scratching the car. I had to put the car away because of this so not sure when I will get to work on the car next. I decided since I was pulling it out of the garage to snap a few quick pics for the heck of it.





























I hate having to put it away in the trailer cause when I come home from school on weekends I normally don’t bother getting it out since I am only home for about 48 hours at a time. Car needs long gradual ramps and a blanket incase the front lip does touch it at least wont scrape then.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

wow. nice install so far. Your work is pretty clean & detailed.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Nice install so far,incredible attention to detail.The FG corner-loaded enclosures are my favorite type installs & u'll save alot of space as well.The TSX &TL are 2 of my favorite sport sedans(along w/ the Infinity sedans).Lose the wheels & u'll be set,good luck with the build....Oh are you using any deadening?...didn't see any in the pix,specially the doors & trunk area.


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## sheaunien (Feb 16, 2006)

nice! still need that ka20 & rhd to complete the eruoR.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

awesome instal but i gotta ask, what were u thinking with those wheels?


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

Pseudonym said:


> awesome instal but i gotta ask, what were u thinking with those wheels?


I love rare jdm parts and there is a race team called Takata and that is there color and Volk made a limited run of there wheels in the race team color.


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Nice install,
Love the wheels!!
Great lookin ride overall


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

sheaunien said:


> nice! still need that ka20 & rhd to complete the eruoR.


I would rather still have the K24, more torque for Daily driving, albeit lower redline (that can be worked around )

K20A

* Found in:
o 2007- Honda Civic Type-R (FD2)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.7:1
+ Power: 225 bhp (225 PS, 165 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m) @ 6100 rpm
+ Redline: 8600 rpm

o 2001-2006 Honda Civic Type-R (EP3)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 212 bhp (218 PS, 158 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 149 ft·lbf (202 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8600 rpm

o 2002-2007 Honda Integra Type-R (DC5)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 217 bhp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8800 rpm
+ I-VTEC Engagement: 5600rpm

o 2003-2007 Honda Accord Euro-R
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 217 bhp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 152 f·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8800 rpm


K24A2

* Found in:
o 2004-2008 Acura TSX
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 10.5:1
+ Power: 200 hp (147 kW) @ 6800 rpm (2004-2005)
+ Power: 205 hp (150 kW) @ 6800 rpm (2006-2007) *SAE Net Rev 8/04
+ Torque: 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (2004-2005)
+ Torque: 164 ft·lbf (222 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (2006-2007)*SAE Net Rev 8/04
+ VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM
+ Redline: 7100 rpm


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

very nice work on the car and on the audio, i love the look of the car, albeit the wheels aren't my taste. I probably would've done some Tenzo DC-6 Type 1s in gunmetal. I love those wheels on TSX's 

Your attention to detail is great


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Another point, I'm not too hip tot he orange power wire, from another post:



> I try to use Harris Welco-Flex when I can. I grab it from a local welding supply company. While there don't tell them what you are using it for, they don't like our types, AND the big tip, look around for remnants on spools, they will often times sell short peices cheap because they can't sell them for true welding runs. Wola! ground cable, bat to block, Big 3 stuff, etc. Then pay full price for the **** off the new spool for the long run. *Don't get cocky and buy orange, IF you wreck your car and it's visibly exposed fire and EMT are trained to not touch the vehicle till the find out if the HV is disabled..... on a Hybrid car While they determine you have a dino burner you could lie bleeding. Orange sure would look cool but not worth the hassle.*


in fact when I wrote that the NHTSA was looking into making large orange cabling illegal for use OTHER than HV primary wire for hybrids.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Did I miss reading something, why did you make the molds if your sub is installed in the rear facing out?


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## dvsadvocate (Mar 17, 2008)

JDM FTW! Love those Te37s!


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

supercharger FTW


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## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> Did I miss reading something, why did you make the molds if your sub is installed in the rear facing out?


Yep you did miss something:



cccoltsicehockey said:


> I then realized that the amp which I would be running in the end at 1ohm to output 1100 watts to two subs could run at 2ohms and output 550watts. This is only 50 watts more than my old amp output at 2ohms so I installed my old sub box for now so I could have a complete sounds system for the time being till I finish the fiberglass boxes.


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

^^^ yes as posted above the current sub install is only temporary so I could listen to something other than highs and mids.

Here was I am hoping to achieve with the end results.










However right now I have two 12in subs and the install pictured uses two 10in subs which may end up causing me problems trying to get them to fit.


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## gsr22 (Jul 30, 2007)

automatic


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## jowens500 (Sep 5, 2008)

Nice work on the car. I have to agree with most on the wheels. No matter how "rare" they are, still ugly.


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Nice job so far, I love the TSX. I wanted one bad, but had to settle for my Si. Keep the wheels too, they are sick. And somebody slap that guy that would rather have Tenzo's then Volk's!


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## dovogod (Jan 21, 2009)

im with gsr22 all the motor work n its automatic, kinda lame. good install tho, look like you could use more sound deadening.


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## dovogod (Jan 21, 2009)

oh yeah i like the green wheels. seriously.


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Just cause it's an auto doesn't mean it can't be fast. Most new Ferrari's and Lamborghini's are auto. Not to mention the new EvoX and p.o.s. GT-R.


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## dovogod (Jan 21, 2009)

true, but does the tsx have one of the dual clutched automatic trannys, obviously im getting very technical, like the ferraris? does it have paddle shifters?


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## cccoltsicehockey (Jan 21, 2009)

don't worry guys, when I got the car originally I had no idea I would go this far with it. now that there is a fully programmable ecu from hondata out for it I will be doing a manual swap and a high boost pulley for the supercharger as the next steps to the car after the system is complete. probably to take place sometime around this coming winter.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

There MAY just be a hondata guy here... just maybe... if you say that word enough 

We make fun of each other a bunch..... just search ricer, flat black, bird ****, rice, you will find it 

And when you find him tell him I think he's a cross-dresser.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

dammit... dupes


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## KARPE (Nov 9, 2008)

Incredible install so far!

thanks for the heads up on Orange wire Chad

I like the color of the wheels just not the style, but my opinion is based purely on aesthetic.


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## dovogod (Jan 21, 2009)

nice. sounds like a plan i guess.


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## davvv (Oct 27, 2009)

JDM is where its all at 


first post


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Yeah but in Japan USDM is the ****, you can make a lot of money off of the USDM badging by shipping it to Japan, and toss in a set of Levis Jeans to double your money.


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## warr40 (Jun 12, 2009)

very nice install


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## tinctorus (Oct 5, 2009)

If you want try taking a heat gun or hair dryer to the panels that you scratch during the install process.
It should work to at least get the scratch to color match with the rest of the panels instead of being white and sticking out like a sore thumb
I know it works on stressed panels that have over flexed and turned white and usually works for small scratches.
I mean it's at least worth a shot it could'nt hurt anything to try


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