# Quick Log - Simple Space Saving SQ - 2013 Accord Sedan - Illusion, Arc, Alpine, RF



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hey guys, Happy new year!

This is the last build we will do this year, just finished it last night, so...one more build log to hold you over until after CES 

The car was our first new gen accord and the goals were:

1. to obtain a decent level of sound quality that is superior to the previously installed aftermarket system.

2. to maintain a stealthy appearance in the interior

3. maintain as much usable space and stealthiness as possible in the trunk, retaining the spare tire.

before all that, i forgot to thank a few people for their help:

[email protected] for his support on the 360.3
Papasin for his insight into his experience working with his oem honda system and various processors which ultimately led me to this decision
Jesse and Jay @drive customers for giving me their wiring color code and other hints since they just built a new accord sema car 

Perhaps the main challenge with these newer generation accords is the stock signal source, which as of now, cannot be changed out. The OEM pre-amp signal is the odd mixture of balanced and very WEAK signal, and it is pretty easy to have noise issues and or noise floor problems....as some of our members have noticed...we came up with a solution for it and it turned out pretty good 

our man Jesse did most of the work on the interior, while i focused on wiring and the sub enclosure, and Joey did the amp rack and under hood, truly a team effort 

lets start first with the fuse holder under the hood. Joey tacked on a metal bar across the oem hold down to secure a single mosconi ANL fuse holder. here is the finished product and two quick pics during the build process:




























for OEM interface and processing, we chose the rockford fosgate 360.3, a few people have had strange noise issues with the mosconi processor and the oem honda premium system, so we decided to go the safe route, but additionally, the RF units small dual knob controller really helps in this situation, it provides a easy to reach knob that controls master volume, subwoofer volume, and pre-set controlls. The controller is mounted below his storage pocket within easy reach:










the unit's bracket was bolted through the oem plastic, a grommet installed and cable lead through, and then the factory piece secured back in:





































the front stage consists of an illusion audio carbon C6 two way component set installed in the factory locations. Jesse took apart the oem tweeter cup, trimmed it out slowly until the illusion tweeter can snap in and the oem ring can still snap in as well. here is the finished result:



















Jesse then ran two pairs of speaker wires into each door, match routed two spacer baffles, bolted them in place and trimmed out the factory metal to enable the fitment of the illusion drivers:










these baffles were then coated with several layers of truck bedliner to protect them against the elements:




























then rest of the door is then sound proofed with a combination of STP foam and CLD damper, and the spacer ring secured via factory mounting points:










the Illusion C6 midbass was then wired up and installed:










the same procedure was then repeated on the passenger side:




























next comes a series of pics showing the wiring bundles as they travel from the front to the back of the car, ziptied to the factory loom every few inches. down the driver side went the power cable and speaker wires, while the passenger side received the RCAs speakers and remote turn on cable.

to make sure we have enough voltage to eliminate any unwanted noise issues, i went with a pair of Arc audio ALD balanced line drivers to boost the signal. these are tucked away in the passenger side kick panel and they woked GREAT! a lot of clean voltage with no noise and a pretty low noise floor. infact, it is my opinion that with this higher voltage from the ALD, the mosconi processors should not have issues with noise either. 























































the rear deck was removed and the metal covered with 50 percent CLD damper, and the deck lid got a lot of attention from STP foam damper. the oem rear sub was already removed and we took out the aftermarket coaxials as well for better response into the cabin:




























the wiring bundle then continue into the trunk to their respective staging points


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

moving to the finished trunk, as stated the goal was to have things out of the sight, tucked away, and retain as much space as possible. so here is the normal view with the trunk open. about the ony thing you see a recessed sub enclosure on the driver side. 



















the processor and amps, meanwhile, are bolted to a steel amp rack that is in turn bolted to the rear deck of the car via rivet nuts, you have duck down a bit to see them:



















the 360.3 is on the passenger side, we supplied him with a arc KS300.2 to power the tweeter with 190 watts, and the customer previously had a PDX 5 channel taht is bridged into a three channel, sending 200 watts to each midbass, and 500 watts to the sub.

pop off the vented grille on the sub enclsoure, and a single illusion audio C10 resides in a sealed enclosure about .5 cub feet net. unlike previous generation accords, which featured a neatly shaped carpet over the wheel well, this new accord sorta had a long flat surface that runs all the way to the front, after playing with a few different ideas, i did a minimalistic mold that saved as much space as possible and not look overly large for a single 10" sub.




























moving back to the amp rack, here is a closer shot at the rack, the components and the wiring, all the power distribution happens on the back ledge with bolted in place blocks and grounding point. sorry for the fuzzy pics, they were taken late in the day and i had to raise the brightness on them so the stuff can be seen more clearly 














































and a coupla final shots of the trunk, at normal standing height and lower to see the components, to show how tucked they are:



















here are three shots of the amps and processor bolted to the metal rack, before and after the RCAs were pre-run, this assembly bolts to the rear deck via five bolts:




























onto the subbox: here is the initial mold being taken of the trunk side:










when that cured, it was removed and trimmed to the desired shape and test fitted to the location



















then the mounting baffle with ring was aimed and attached:










mold cloth was then pulled, resin applied, allowed to cure. then the subbox was cut open on the back side and fiberglass reinforced from the inside., then it was sealed back up, test fitted again, gaps backfilled with duraglass, and then final sanded, and the final result is:










the enclosure was then carpeted, and dyed lighter to better match the oem carpet:



















and finally, three shots of the vented grille before and after carpeting:




























the subbox is attached via a single bolt and rivet into into a metal cross member behind the factory carpet that used to house a plastic clip.

so thats it. the car does pretty good imaging wise, a dash mat could IMO certainly help it. but imaging is relatively hovering above dash level, the center is located right on the top edge of the upper display, and width is superb. depth is right at the middle dash level. tonality wise its got great detail and good mibass impact, and the sub can get pretty loud and give the cabin a good shaking. overall, a pretty big improvement over the previous aftemarket system 

well thats it...have a safe new year and i will see yall in 2014!!!

Bing


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Clean!


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## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

wire ties hold those things down pretty good as well. just a little tip. J/K :laugh::laugh:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

jtaudioacc said:


> wire ties hold those things down pretty good as well. just a little tip. J/K :laugh::laugh:


Smh lol

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## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

Bing, where did you get the little pyramids you use for painting?


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## ccapil (Jun 1, 2013)

Very clean and stealthy! I bet the owners wrapped.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

JP Fabrication said:


> Bing, where did you get the little pyramids you use for painting?


Iirc home depot? Have had them for a few years

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## colled96 (Feb 2, 2010)

Pretty nice work guys. Have a HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!


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## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

Thanks. Bing and Joey have a happy New Year.


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## JI808 (Nov 20, 2013)

I dig it.


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## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

Great work Happy New Year and see at CES


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## JoeHemi57 (Mar 28, 2006)

Did i miss the GTR log? This one looks great too, after talking to your Joey i have decided on XDi amps myself and will probably do an Arc sub in a similar enclosure to this on my passenger side.


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## suda695 (Jan 1, 2014)

Hey all, signed up specifically to ask a question here. Just wondering what your thoughts are on mounting amplifiers and the like upside down. I've been working at a shop for a little over a year and have been taught to sneer at the practice. It makes sense to me to mount them the right way up or at very most 90 degrees so the heat sinks are able to dissipate heat, otherwise the heat caused by the amp will rise into the circuitry. Is this why you've mounted it onto a metal frame with the air gap between the amps and the underside of the parcel tray? Im guessing mounting it directly to the tray or a carpeted mdf board should be avoided? 

Cheers 

Ben


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## ccapil (Jun 1, 2013)

^^ yes good question. It depends, the heatsink has to be exposed to the air, and so the amp can cool efficiently. so inverting an amp with the heatsink facing down, means a lot of heat is being trapped inside the amp instead of coming off the top. I try and aviod it, but it is ok if you can keep the chassis of the amp cool, or use fans to cool it. More of an issue with class AB.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice work!

That fuse holder looks familiar...kinda like a JL audio fuse holder. lol

Out of curiosity, why not run a 300.4 bridged to the mids, and use the PDX-5 in 3 channel mode running 200ish to the tweets and 500 to the sub? Would have gotten something near 350/ch on the mids and been then same physical size.

The Arc KS amps have fans/venting in them, so I don't think it's that important to mount them right side up or upside down, but the PDX amp *might* be iffy. Tho those never seemed to run stupid hot anyway.

What are your thoughts, Bing or Joey?

Jay


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Another home run... you guys are the dream team!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

1. on the upside down thing. in my experience, a well designed modern amp that isnt known to run hot, especially class D and or G/H amps, i have never seen an issue them being mounted upside down. the metal of the amp rack certainly conducts heat and helps to act like a headsink, but a few time before Joey came on board, i have mounted amps upside down on a wood piece bolted to the rear deck, and none ever had a heat issue...i dont do this often but the times that i did, it never had a problem. some amps, such as the arc SE, we were told works best when its hang upside down in this manner. So I guess what i am saying is, its one of those things, you are aboslutely right, theoretically right side up on most amps should always be best, but through experience, we learn about how amps react when done in this manner, and after a few dozen installs, you become confident with it... hope that help? 

jay: thats a 300.2  the KS amps are honest to god one of the coldest running amps i have ever dealt with...as for the PDX? i have done a coupla HD JLs upside down like this with no issues, so i dont expect it, i mean as far as heat dissipation goes, i assume having two or three amps stacked would be far worse and they are designed to do it..


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

Bing I know for this install that the amps on the deck worked best. But did you happen to eye ball the spare tire well? I am wondering about using the space where the foam above the spare tire is and making an amp rack while keeping the floor still at factory height.



Would you care to share where the power wire is through the fire wall? Any factory empty holes that where used?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Salami said:


> Bing I know for this install that the amps on the deck worked best.
> 
> 
> Did you happen to eye ball the spare tire well? I am wondering about using the space where the foam above the spare tire is and making an amp rack while keeping the floor still at factory height.


to be honest i didnt take much of a look on this, but for me, if i am going to do a fake floor WITH spare rention in this car , i want to ensure two things, one is that the spare can be accessed easily with almost no tools or simply a phillips screw driver, and with one hand. and the other thing is the floor has to look completely oem. 

so the issue would be how to do a pivoting amp rack in this car when the wires have to come from the back, if they come from the front, there is no room iirc beneath the factory carpet and the metal floor. so..it may be tricky.

but again, thats just me regarding putting someting above the spare. if you dont care about that, i do think there is enough r oom to fit things above the spare. i do remember it was odd in that the tool tray is tiny, and doesnt nearly fill the empty space above the spare, and the facrory floor sits on top of it. 

Jesse did the wiring on it, there was already a hole in the firewall from the previous aftermarket installation, so we used that, i will have to ask him where it is


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> so the issue would be how to do a pivoting amp rack in this car when the wires have to come from the back, if they come from the front, there is no room iirc beneath the factory carpet and the metal floor. so..it may be tricky.


I forgot about those pesky details such as running the wires. :blush:





simplicityinsound said:


> i do think there is enough r oom to fit things above the spare. i do remember it was odd in that the tool tray is tiny, and doesnt nearly fill the empty space above the spare, and the facrory floor sits on top of it.


Thanks for the confirmation. I think it would be easier to relocate the jack and 2 tools than mount the maps somewhere that will take up more trunk space. 




simplicityinsound said:


> Jesse did the wiring on it, there was already a hole in the firewall from the previous aftermarket installation, so we used that, i will have to ask him where it is


It would be appreciated. I have only looked briefly but the only sort of easy spot I see is where the wiring harness comes through the firewall on the driver's side, I am not very keen on this option though. I was hoping for something better like an unused factory hole where I can run the 1/0 wire I have through with a nice grommet.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Nice work. Glad you were able to come up with a solution to maintain the stock signal source.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

papasin said:


> Nice work. Glad you were able to come up with a solution to maintain the stock signal source.


yup, thanks again for your help


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## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

the strange noise issues are probably from the factory noise cancellation system that is always on regardless of the radio being on or not,it is typically a funky hum.and it typically wont do it when the windows or sunroof is open, or the trunk.(but you probably dont want to drive around forever with your windows down) there is a mic in the front overhead panel that is combined with the bluetooth mic(cut the wrong wire and the bluetooth mic wont work) . I cant remember exactly which wire to cut (i did it by elimination), and youll also need to pull the c-pillars down or out, pull out carefully two snap clips in rear headliner, gently without creasing headliner pull it down (works best with two people) reach up in to the rear mic and unplug it. your weird noise issues should go away.ive dealt with several of these cars for this issue. Once again joey and bing the dynamic duo  really nice clean work! I'll see if i can dig up the wire color.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

jpeezy said:


> the strange noise issues are probably from the factory noise cancellation system that is always on regardless of the radio being on or not,it is typically a funky hum.and it typically wont do it when the windows or sunroof is open, or the trunk.(but you probably dont want to drive around forever with your windows down) there is a mic in the front overhead panel that is combined with the bluetooth mic(cut the wrong wire and the bluetooth mic wont work) . I cant remember exactly which wire to cut (i did it by elimination), and youll also need to pull the c-pillars down or out, pull out carefully two snap clips in rear headliner, gently without creasing headliner pull it down (works best with two people) reach up in to the rear mic and unplug it. your weird noise issues should go away.ive dealt with several of these cars for this issue. Once again joey and bing the dynamic duo  really nice clean work! I'll see if i can dig up the wire color.


the ANC module in this car is under the factory radio, it was pulled before we even got the car, but thats not he noise we are speaking of.

more like alternator whine, high floor noise or other electrical interference noise...mostly due to the odd nature of the oem output.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

*Quick Log - Simple Space Saving SQ - 2013 Accord Sedan - Illusion, Arc, Alpin...*



simplicityinsound said:


> to make sure we have enough voltage to eliminate any unwanted noise issues, i went with a pair of Arc audio ALD balanced line drivers to boost the signal. these are tucked away in the passenger side kick panel and they woked GREAT! a lot of clean voltage with no noise and a pretty low noise floor. infact, it is my opinion that with this higher voltage from the ALD, the mosconi processors should not have issues with noise either.


I would tend to agree with this, in part with my experience using a balanced line driver in front of the 6to8. With this combo, I was able to successfully eliminate the alternator whine and other issues when I was running that iteration with my previous Honda Premium OEM HU. IIRC, the issue wasn't the low voltage on the Civic Premium OEM (at least according to the scope, could be different on the Accord), but in general the nature of the balanced differential signal makes it sometimes a challenge. Other folks on 8thCivic also have had problems taking that signal directly to amps and often ended up having to use specific amps that handled this balanced signal (i.e. JL HD/XD and a few others), or use a line driver that can convert that signal to a conventional unbalanced output.


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## ousooner2 (Jan 6, 2011)

*Re: Quick Log - Simple Space Saving SQ - 2013 Accord Sedan - Illusion, Arc, Alpin...*



papasin said:


> I would tend to agree with this, in part with my experience using a balanced line driver in front of the 6to8. With this combo, I was able to successfully eliminate the alternator whine and other issues when I was running that iteration with my previous Honda Premium OEM HU. IIRC, the issue wasn't the low voltage on the Civic Premium OEM (at least according to the scope, could be different on the Accord), but in general the nature of the balanced differential signal makes it sometimes a challenge. Other folks on 8thCivic also have had problems taking that signal directly to amps and often ended up having to use specific amps that handled this balanced signal (i.e. JL HD/XD and a few others), or use a line driver that can convert that signal to a conventional unbalanced output.


I know quite a few of us dealt with this issue with the 3rd Gen. Acura TL and it's balanced diff. signal. Some people had no issues taking the pre-amp signal straight to the amp(s), but if I remember correctly...they were using amps that could accept it. I know I go noise until I used the RF BLD and took that into my amps (no noise) then I picked up my MS-8 and had no noise from that either. We had a very low voltage pre-amp signal (something like .4v I believe) so the higher voltage could have helped also. I don't know. 

On another note, love the build. I liked doing my own build on my TL, but I don't have time to do that kind of stuff anymore. All about space saving too and that kind of work, like what you've done, isn't easy, cheap or quick to do. I miss having a nice setup though. Makes the drives to and from work SUPPPPPER boring haha


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## cflores3 (Jun 11, 2012)

I have the same issues with noise using a an audison bit ten, 
looks like i will try add the line drivers--

anyone care to discuss how to wire these in? in the pic it looks like one of the line drivers has sub written on it? is that why he used two? one for the sub and the other for the front left and front right? 

(signal taken prior to the factory amp correct?)

any help would be greatly appreacited!!!


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## ousooner2 (Jan 6, 2011)

I used a single Rockford BLD. You take the front L/R channels into it and then RCA's out of the BLD into your DSP.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

JP Fabrication said:


> Bing, where did you get the little pyramids you use for painting?





simplicityinsound said:


> Iirc home depot? Have had them for a few years


I'm the one who told him to find them at Home Depot


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

HondAudio said:


> I'm the one who told him to find them at Home Depot


Yessir...

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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> I'm the one who told him to find them at Home Depot


Hey, half of those are my pyramids too!!!! :laugh:


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

ok, which aisle/section and part number for that cute pyramid thing? Thanks


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

Looks amazing as always, guys. Your description of the soundstage sounds a lot like what I have with my sail panel tweets, stock location mids, and T/A.

Speaking of sail panel tweeters - I know you guys aren't big fans, but I think the ones in this Accord are simply superb.

Very well done.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

diy.phil said:


> ok, which aisle/section and part number for that cute pyramid thing? Thanks


They should be hanging on a peg in the paint department


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

Great work as usual from you guys. Unless I am mistaken you guys are the first ones to use a rockford 360.3 on the forum, or at least the first respectful guys to use it. What do you think of it?


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Can you guys tell me what wires at the Head unit you wired into for the install. I have a 2014 Accord EXL and want to install a Audison Bitone to 2 JL HD 900/5's for the system. I have been looking for the wiring schematics for this car and cannot find it. I am looking for the FL,FR,RL,RR, and sub wiring info. 


Awesome install as it gives me ideas for my new Accord.


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

How did you get the jute carpet padding to stick?


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

JRogers81 said:


> How did you get the jute carpet padding to stick?


I don't think we did anything with jute carpet padding?


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## JRogers81 (Aug 2, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> I don't think we did anything with jute carpet padding?


Is this factory then?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

JRogers81 said:


> Is this factory then?


Yup...love to claim credit but that was all honda 

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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

If we were sticking that to something, I would use the contact cement we upholster with. Spray both sides, let dry, then stick.


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## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

I spy a pack of smokes in a couple pics there. Bad habit. Bad, bad, bad!!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

mires said:


> I spy a pack of smokes in a couple pics there. Bad habit. Bad, bad, bad!!


Joey smokes like a chimney...but hes quit recently for MJ

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## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> Joey smokes like a chimney...but hes quit recently for MJ
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Good for him. I smoked for several years and quitting was one of the toughest things I have ever done. Well worth it though if he can just work through the first few weeks or so.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

mires said:


> Good for him. I smoked for several years and quitting was one of the toughest things I have ever done. Well worth it though if he can just work through the first few weeks or so.


By joey I meant myself haha

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## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> By joey I meant myself haha
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Haha. Just like a smoker. Always putting it on somebody else.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

hey I quit for about 2 or 3 years already (took many tries, wasn't easy and it was a miracle I somehow did). So, just hang in there, ok to look but don't touch it!!
I was at home depot looking for the pyramid thing earlier noon time. The paint dept person said it has been discontinued.... so... be sure to take good care of your pyramid things because they are now old school collector's item!!


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## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

diy.phil said:


> hey I quit for about 2 or 3 years already (took many tries, wasn't easy and it was a miracle I somehow did). So, just hang in there, ok to look but don't touch it!!
> I was at home depot looking for the pyramid thing earlier noon time. The paint dept person said it has been discontinued.... so... be sure to take good care of your pyramid things because they are now old school collector's item!!


Check your local Michael's or Hobby Lobby. They have all kinds of Styrofoam shapes. I bet you can find a pyramid or a cone shape that would work for that.


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## ChristopherD (Aug 29, 2012)

Looks great. I'm facing a similar issue in a 2011 Maxima of balanced differential outputs with not much power. Looking at the pic, it looks like you wired the low level outputs to the speaker level inputs in the ALD. Is that right? And how were you able to set the gains on the ALD that way?


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## jrs1006 (Sep 19, 2010)

Wow!! Another clean install. Looks awesome. and saved most of the trunk. I have the week off. Switching jobs. I will probably stop by and formally introduce myself.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

jrs1006 said:


> Wow!! Another clean install. Looks awesome. and saved most of the trunk. I have the week off. Switching jobs. I will probably stop by and formally introduce myself.


looking forward to it


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

diy.phil said:


> hey I quit for about 2 or 3 years already (took many tries, wasn't easy and it was a miracle I somehow did). So, just hang in there, ok to look but don't touch it!!
> I was at home depot looking for the pyramid thing earlier noon time. The paint dept person said it has been discontinued.... so... be sure to take good care of your pyramid things because they are now old school collector's item!!


Hyde Painter's Pyramids (10-Pack)-43510 at The Home Depot ?


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thanks JOey! The HD stores further away still has some stock based on the online check/info. I'll have to quickly go get them! Looks like I'm eating lunch at ikea tomorrow (next door to home depot there).


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

ok, got it earlier this afternoon. The new version has sports wings! (or may trim it soon). Thanks!


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## nanoodhaliwal (Jul 17, 2011)

Where to get that blue plastic on enclosure for flush mounting the sub ?

You guys do some amazing work !!


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

Does anyone know if the stock HU cuts out Bass as volume is increased on the Honda OEM HU?.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

luisc202 said:


> Does anyone know if the stock HU cuts out Bass as volume is increased on the Honda OEM HU?.


most times dynamic eq in a premium system occurs at the amplifier, not the headunit, at least the ones that i metered...the honda ones i believe happens at the amp so when you tap before the amp, it eliminates this issue.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

nanoodhaliwal said:


> Where to get that blue plastic on enclosure for flush mounting the sub ?
> 
> You guys do some amazing work !!


its low heat plastic, we get it from select products as one of our vendors...i have never really checked if its available commercially at a store or online. 

sorry


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## luisc202 (Oct 29, 2013)

simplicityinsound said:


> most times dynamic eq in a premium system occurs at the amplifier, not the headunit, at least the ones that i metered...the honda ones i believe happens at the amp so when you tap before the amp, it eliminates this issue.


Bing thanks for the fast reply. I was under the same impression as I do not hear an audible loss as I crank up the stereo.


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

Seems like I have run across some GM radios that had volume dependent eq...


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Seems like I have run across some GM radios that had volume dependent eq...


oh almost all GM radios had it, but on most modern GM cars where there is a stock amplifier aft of the stock deck, that dynamic eq usually happens at the amp. though id admit my experience is limited to a handful of models, most of them oem Bose.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

simplicityinsound said:


> its low heat plastic, we get it from select products as one of our vendors...i have never really checked if its available commercially at a store or online.
> 
> sorry


I put some plastic speaker brackets into the toaster oven the other night to soften them a bit so I could flatten them out. They started getting pliable at like 150 degrees. That's "low heat" if you ask me 

These things:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120818130/Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html?tp=2824

Super-cheap stamped plastic with sharp edges and inconsistent sizing. I probably won't be able to use them, but I have other things in mind


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