# 2007 Toyota Tundra: Reg Cab- SQ Install.



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Dear DIYMA

Here is my 2007 Tundra Regular Cab Stereo Install. It is a more simple install, but it sound pretty dam fantastic!

I am going to make better pods that are not aimed right at the glass in the future, but I just wanted to get this install done and get the truck driving again! Its a work in progress but there is a good start here!

Listening Impressions.

I put the RTA on this truck right away. I dialed in my Crossover Settings on the H700 and did some phase tests to make sure everything was wired correctly. It checked out and we were on to tuning the truck for a flat response curve to see how it stacked up. After working with the Amp Gains, To my surprise, I had no more than a 3 db bump on any particular band. This was a great first start to see. A little tweaking and I had an almost perfectly flat RTA! How cool... But would that translate into a wonderful listening experience? Well as well all know it helps, but it for sure is just the start. 

From 350 HZ and up the car is super crisp and clean. almost to crisp. It has a hint of lifelessness to the sound. I attribute this to the direct reflection off of the front window, that can be corrected with some different dash pods. The mid bass responds well, images very well and puts male vocals and bass guitar right in the center of the sound stage. I love that there is very little smear between highs/mids and Lows.

The Sub is the problem child. I wanted it to play up and around 70 HZ, but the Sub became very localized in the back center when I did that. I currently have it crossed at 50 hz but you can hear frequency transfers between the doors and the sub. It really pisses me off. Also the sub sounds down right wimpy, until you crack a window and the thing becomes a beast. I don't know how to fix this? Any ideas? 

So im still working on the subwoofer portion, I am going to try a SI sub in there in a few weeks to see if the sub is part of the issue. BUt ill keep updates coming to this thread. Enjoy the Build!

Component List!
Morel Elate 3 way components, 1-3-6
Phoenix Gold Ti15 Dual 3ohm sub
Alpine W505
Alpine H700 (original model with face plate)
Alpine PDX 4.150 and 1000.1
Sanyo back up camera on license plate frame.
0awg wire split to 4awg wire for power wire
all speaker wire is 14awg
signal cables are all alpine ai-net cables










So here we go….

First thing we did is Strip down the interior and the doors and apply Hush Mat.




I also Pulled down the headliner and applied Hush Mat to the roof, floors , doors, and back wall.





































Next I made door pods out of MDF and then coated them with Truck bed liner to seal them from moisture.

































Next I installed LED Lights on the doors to shine at night when the door is open. I wired this into the stock door light.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Next I made the Mounts for the Crossovers in the glove box. Each Crossover had 3 sets of wires attached to it, that is why there are 3 sets of holes on each side. I also took the stock glove box light and converted it to LED using the stock switch. After it was crimped into place, I put epoxy on the leads so they won’t come loose at all.



























Here is the modification to the lower center dash to mount the control unit for the PXAH-700


















Here is the power wire and distro blocks



















Here are the amplifiers mounted under the seats.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Here is the construction of the subwoofer Enclosure. Used MDF, Bondo and a power sander. There is 1.5 CuFt and the driver displaces .25 so is is perfect for the 1.25 cuft sealed requirement on the sub. I might redo the enclosure in Vinyl some point later on as it would match better and look better too!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Here are the finished pictures of the install from today, I still have the nice fresh smell of fiberglass resin in the cabin!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)




----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

I also Busted out some strip lights from V leds.com as well as door bulbs, maplights and licence plate lights.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Here are some pics of the rest of the install of the K40 System. It is really easy. The K40 Bluetooth Model is sweet!!

For the front Radar I made a mount and put it right behind the front grill. Also the LED Indicators on the interior are front and center! 




























The Laser Portion i mounted right on the front bumper.










The Rear Radar is mounted in the rear bumper cap, they work through plastic just fine so it does not show at all.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Here is a Mod that I have found necessary on the last 4 toyota's that I have purchased. although not stereo related,, major comfort related.

I am a taller guy, but by no means huge. at 6'3" and 245 the tundra fits me great, but I always felt like my legs were never supported at the end of the seat, I also felt like the seat was tilted to far forward and I was going to slide off. I wanted something more comfortable, something to hold me, not so that I had to hold on! So here is what I came up with and it works perfectly!

THE NET RESULT, DROPS REAR OF SEAT 2", GIVES IT A MORE RECLINED AND SUPPORTIVE FEEL.

Time Needed: 2-4 hours including dry time. (depending on paint choice) 




Here are the brackets that I am going to modify. These as you can see I have tried other ways to modify. you will only have one hole in your seat rail foot.[/COLOR]


















First thing to do is cut off the excess steel from the foot of the chair using a recip saw and grind down the excess and sharp edges. Notice that I have ground it down to where it is flat with the rest of the foot that is left intact. This is the new base, so make sure it is somewhat flat, IT does not have to be perfect.


























The next step is to drill out the Holes on the seat rail. and remove the rivets that are there currently. The rivets are marked in blue here. Do not worry, these rivets do not hold the seat bracket on, they are glued or welded in other ways too.










Cut out your brackets and match them up with the back of the seat rail foot. Drill holes matching up with the ones your drilled out the rivets with. and then bolt them on for test fitting. Once you have it fit properly, bolt them on tight and then grind off the excess threads sticking out from the nut. on the bottom of the new seat rail foot.


























Notice the clearance issues that you can run into with this set up, you will need to use your angle grinder to make sure that the steel clears your seat when the slider moves up and down its motion. 

Then Take the seat back inside the truck and mark the holes for where the bolts will go into the truck to lock it down. Drill them out and use a file to clean up the burrs.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Now you are almost done! Mask or cover the seats accordingly to paint them what ever color you would like.



















Here is the finished product. None will ever no, they will just be nice and comfortable!

Passengers side.









Note that this bracket does not cover the carpet completely, that is my fault and I cut the bracket too short. Don't make this mistake, cut them 4.5 inches in length to account for this


























Drivers Side










Well for all you tall guys out there! I hope this helped. It takes a few hours at best, I got it done on a saturday morning with 2 trips to the hardware store, so Enjoy it!!


----------



## Juggernaut (Jul 16, 2009)

awesome work.... looks REALLY nice.


----------



## dany2k3m (Jun 4, 2008)

Wow, great work.


----------



## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

I love it. Clean install. If you wouldn't mind driving that truck and parking in my driveway, that would be great. K, thanks, bye.


----------



## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Wow, this really turned out nice! I like this truck and setup a lot!


----------



## ssmith100 (Jun 28, 2007)

Out of curiousity, why have the controller for the 701 when the W505 will control it.  I've never had any issues with my W505 controlling my 701.

Shane


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

ssmith100 said:


> Out of curiousity, why have the controller for the 701 when the W505 will control it. I've never had any issues with my W505 controlling my 701.
> 
> Shane


Shane... It is because I don't have a 701... I have an older 700 and the interface with the 505 has a very slow time talking to the 700 version.

Also, I like having the separate interface. I can bounce between songs and have full deck control and also have full EQ control at the same time.

Also.. The PXAH700 has an Auto Time Correction feature with a mic that the 701 does not have.

Joe


----------



## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Very nice install. I am about to work on my 08 reg cab F-150. Almost finished buying stuff. It has been a major budget build but I hope it comes out half as nice as yours.


----------



## johnya84 (Nov 24, 2007)

Very nice install. Did the deadening help a lot? I drive the same truck with the v6 at work road noise is very bad in that truck.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

johnya84 said:


> Very nice install. Did the deadening help a lot? I drive the same truck with the v6 at work road noise is very bad in that truck.



Ya know.. It really did not help that much. I might go back and really get into it and do 2 layers all the way up to the rear window and the side panels behind the doors. I just did enough to keep the sub from causing a ruckus back there.


----------



## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

So are you gonna supercharge it eventually? 
Its a great looking truck!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

jonnyanalog said:


> So are you gonna supercharge it eventually?
> Its a great looking truck!


I hope to!!! IT is quick, but the TRD blower would really make it scream!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Im having some real issues with my Subwoofer in this install.

First is set up. I have no subsonic filter on it, it is crossed over at 50hz at a 18db cross on the top end and playing in phase with my door 6.5" Morels

1: There is a major frequency Transfer between my doors and my sub during song play, if a bass line goes from 60 hz to 40 hz, you can tell it is moving from the doors to the sub.
2: The bass clearly sounds like it is coming from the back of the truck.
3: The low frequency out put is much to be desired, unless I open the windows, then it slams!

Things I have tried. I have a H700 Processor
Phase correction: It seems to work for some songs and the others it gets worse..
Time Correction: Because it is the closest speaker to the driver I have messed with this, again, some frequency's it works,, others it make it worse..
X-Over, I have lowered the cross frequency down to 30hz and it kinda disseminates and just plays the lows, but then there is no real kick or bass when you play some of the other music. The doors just cant keep up with a real 35hz kick drum.

any suggestions.....? Is this an equipment issue? I know this is a 15", should I go and put a Si 12 in there or is there something im missing?


----------



## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Nice work, as for your sub issue.

Try some other things, 
1. higher LP frequency (60 to 80HZ) 
2. change the slope to something not so steep, (ie 12 or 6db)
3. The HP on the mids, dont cut so steep, have it roll off more. so again use a shalower cut off curver (6 or 12dB)
4. Lower gainon sub & increase gain on the mid if possible, (this may mean attenuation on the tweet to balance out the sound)
Hope that helps.
Also how much tactile feel (ie your body) feels the sub? as thats kind of relevant seen as you hear less than you feel subbass freqs.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Ok, I will give that a shot. Having the h700 is a blessing, but a curse cause there is so much adjustability... but that is the fun part of all of this!!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

I figured out some stuff playing last night! I had my Input voltage on the wrong selection on the PDX sub amplifier. I changed that setting from .1-1v to 4-8v setting. Altered the Gain on the midbass drivers and subwoofer.

Crossovers are now at.
Midbass, 400 to 40 sloped at 6db
Subwoofer 70 to 0 slopped at 12 db

This was a huge help! The biggest change was that input setting on the sub though!

I played some more with what pods will sound like in the dash! I gota get that project started!!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

syd-monster said:


> Nice work, as for your sub issue.
> 
> Also how much tactile feel (ie your body) feels the sub? as thats kind of relevant seen as you hear less than you feel subbass freqs.


This Still changes drastically when the windows are open vs closed. The sub seems to just open up when the windows are opened! The low end just comes pounding through and the seat backs start shaking at Higher volumes. But is very muted down, clean but not extended with the windows up.

Something I realized when doing this install, there is no cab vents like on other cars. I might have to make some and see if that helps.


----------



## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Awesome work. It looks very cool.


----------



## Waldo021 (Jul 31, 2009)

Nice Install, dindt like the place you put the crossovers but is ok
Cool!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Waldo021 said:


> Nice Install, dindt like the place you put the crossovers but is ok
> Cool!


What is wrong with the cross over location?


----------



## lopezi (Oct 12, 2006)

ChiTownSQ said:


> This Still changes drastically when the windows are open vs closed. The sub seems to just open up when the windows are opened! The low end just comes pounding through and the seat backs start shaking at Higher volumes. But is very muted down, clean but not extended with the windows up.
> 
> Something I realized when doing this install, there is no cab vents like on other cars. I might have to make some and see if that helps.


I had an '02 Tundra Access Cab and I had the same issue whereby just cracking the windows open it sounded great and then closing them the low end rolled off. I was running a JL Stealthbox sealed enclosure. I always wondered if I was to go with a ported enclosure whether the window issue would go away. I never had a chance to find out since I don't have the truck anymore. I worked around the issue by bumping it ~+6db at around 40Hz when the windows were closed and pulling it back to 0 when they were open.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

lopezi said:


> I had an '02 Tundra Access Cab and I had the same issue whereby just cracking the windows open it sounded great and then closing them the low end rolled off. I was running a JL Stealthbox sealed enclosure. I always wondered if I was to go with a ported enclosure whether the window issue would go away. I never had a chance to find out since I don't have the truck anymore. I worked around the issue by bumping it ~+6db at around 40Hz when the windows were closed and pulling it back to 0 when they were open.


Thank you for sharing this. This makes it even more evident that there needs to be a cab vent! Im going to try and dig something up and create a vent behind one of my panels. I also get lots of pressure when i close the doors. So Ill see what I come up with! Maybe harvest something off of another car at a junk yard.

The cab must be acting like another enclosure because it is so well sealed up.


----------



## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

Great ideas and functional. Have you considered getting the mids and tweets deep in the dash?


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

8675309 said:


> Great ideas and functional. Have you considered getting the mids and tweets deep in the dash?


As in lower than there current position to hide them? Lots of cutting would have to be done to lower them from their current position, but it is doable. What would I gain from that?


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Well many if not all of my Tuning woes were solved tonight.... I had an auto setting on my H700 Processor that was choosing to turn on the MX processor controls depending on the source that was being used!  I found that little bugger and turned it all off.. Now it sound lifeless and soo soo pure. No more background hiss, the Noise floor has been raised and things are really cleaned up!. Now I gota re RTA the truck and begin again,, but now my bass/mid-bass /mid/tweet all sound nice and blended with no boosting of signal in any one area!

Thank the good lord I figured it out!! For anyone else using the H700! Make sure you turned the MX off in both spots! In set up and on the MX button. Yikes!


----------



## ReloadedSS (Aug 26, 2008)

Good work on the install. Really good gear selected, I'm glad you've figured things out with the H701.

Really like these trucks; my wife is looking at a Sequoia when the minivan gets on in years.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

The Sequoia is an awesome truck! Soo much room in comparison to the Expedition and the Tahoe/yukon.


----------



## pnn23 (Jun 7, 2008)

Very clean install. My buddy has a 2003 Tundra - I need to show him this thread.


----------



## evli one (Dec 5, 2008)

great work!


----------



## Mammalian04 (Oct 2, 2009)

Nice job with the customization and creativity man! Not everything is my taste but I can appreciate the work and end result!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Thanks! I kinda hoped that it was not too flashy over all.


----------



## tdc_worm (Sep 24, 2009)

well done...cant wait to get to work on mine....


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

*BREAK THROUGH WEEKEND!!!!!

I purchased a set of Morel Elate 9 Midbasses to replace my Elate 6's to get a bit more output as well as lower frequency extension ability.

I bolted in 3/8" MDF to seal up the 2 door openings shown in this picture below and put sound suppression over them. Then put 1" thick window seal foam around the speakers to make a tight seal with the skin of the door panel when it is put on. I also added another layer of hushmat to the door panels them selves to shore up any vibration that they might have.












I adjusted my Crossover points on the elate 9s down to 40hz with a 6db slope on the low side and 300hz with a 12db slope on the high side. lowered my 15" sub woofer to play from 40hz and down.

The system came together. bass sounds nice and focused up front, the sub is no longer localized in the back of the truck. I adjusted my time alignment a bit to bring a stronger integration with my mid and tweeter. The punch that the system delivers is totally outstanding and the bass extension down low is super smooth. The 15 likes playing those low low frequencies and did not like going up in the 50s and 60s before where the 6 was not producing enough output to keep up with the 15.

Next is to make some better mid tweeter pods to correct some of the window reflection issues that I have! should be outstanding summer of listening!!*


----------



## Roman_B (Feb 27, 2010)

Very nice setup. Do you like Alpine amps? 
Is Hushmat better when Dynamat?
Thanks!!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Roman_B said:


> Very nice setup. Do you like Alpine amps?
> Is Hushmat better when Dynamat?
> Thanks!!



I am pleased with the Alpine Amps from a design and output standpoint, but they are not a great SQ amp as they have some noise to them.

Hushmat was just what I found on sale... So I went with it. No real reason except it was cheap.


----------



## Roman_B (Feb 27, 2010)

I want to use Alpine PDX-5 amp and maybe Alpine component speakers.
But the way I like your rims, what tires size and brand do you use?
Thanks.


----------



## Eiswritsat (Nov 19, 2008)

Why did u paint the speaker? looks like you got paint all over it


----------



## orangelss (Dec 20, 2008)

Eiswritsat said:


> Why did u paint the speaker? looks like you got paint all over it


^^^^I LOL'ed^^^^

Have you tried sealing up the doors a little better, not just dead'n them. That would help the 9" pull the bass a little stronger forward. With them and a well sealed door, you almost wouldn't need the sub. Good luck. The install looks great and really has me itching to get started on mine. :laugh:


----------



## BMWTUBED (Aug 25, 2007)

ChiTownSQ said:


> *BREAK THROUGH WEEKEND!!!!!
> 
> I purchased a set of Morel Elate 9 Midbasses to replace my Elate 6's to get a bit more output as well as lower frequency extension ability.
> 
> ...


What kind of depth do you have in that Tundra door for speakers? I'm thinking my next car will be a truck!


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

Eiswritsat said:


> Why did u paint the speaker? looks like you got paint all over it


I used a black sharpie on the silver screws so they did not show thorugh the speaker grill.

There is no paint on the speakers anywhere...


As far as the depth issue. The sheet metal sits 1.6" from the Window track, and you have room to go out another 1" on the front of the door depending on the size of the driver. The 9"s from morel are as big as you can fit in there with out modifying the panel.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

orangelss said:


> ^^^^I LOL'ed^^^^
> 
> Have you tried sealing up the doors a little better, not just dead'n them. That would help the 9" pull the bass a little stronger forward. With them and a well sealed door, you almost wouldn't need the sub. Good luck. The install looks great and really has me itching to get started on mine. :laugh:



I did with the upgraded to the 9's. All the holes in the doors were sealed and deadened with 3/8 mdf pannels.


----------



## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

*Next Project. Get rid of the 15 and put a Morel Ultimo 10 in place of the glove box and aim it into the firewall. Also considering a 8W7....

Any thoughts??*


----------



## silverdiesel2574 (Feb 22, 2008)

Love the seat mod.


----------

