# The Madness Begins Again...FJ Cruiser Build Log



## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Alright guys, I just traded in my G35 for a new truck, and that means that it's time for a new build and a new opportunity. The Platform? 

ENTER: 2010 FJ CRUISER Trail Teams Special Edition











I will include a few more pics of the platform that I will be working with, but thought I would take the chance to spell out my objectives and give you an idea of what you are going to be seeing in the next few weeks. 

Concept:
I have always liked the idea of a 3 way speaker system up front, as there is a driver that is specifically focused on the midbass frequencies. This frees up the midrange to focus more on the critical sections of the soundtrack. This is obviously harder to tune, but the results in my eyes are worth it. 

I have never liked passive crossover networks, as the speakers always feel a little bit to be desired, as if they are not just getting the job "quite" done. This install will be fully active, and with lots of power. The idea with this install is to install the Tweet and Mid in the A-Pillars, and the Midbass speakers in the stock door locations. This will bring the soundstage up, and give it a wide presence as the dash is actually quite far from the head of the driver. 

Amps and Sub I hope to keep relatively low key, installed on either side of the wheel wells in the back of the truck. The goal is to keep everything below the "trim" line (where the black meets the light gray interior) and flush with the wells. I want to maintain full use of the interior, so nothing will be mounted on the floor or the seats. 

Sound Deadening is something I feel is over rated. For the purposes of keeping resonances down and sealing the door, I will be doing a couple layers of Damplifier on the front doors. However, unless I see a particular trouble area, this is probably the only area that the car is going to get any sound deadening. I spent a lot of time on the g35, and while I could notice a faint improvement during driving, I don't believe the effort in removing the internals of the car was worth the time and investment. 

Equipment:

The Source : Apine CDA 9887
The Processing : Alpine CDA 9887, Arc Audio IDX/XEQ Combo
Signal "Buffering" : Arc Audio ALD Line Driver
Amps: JL300/4v2 - Midbass (bridged)
JL300/4v2 - Tweets and Mids
JL500/1v2 - Sub
Speakers : Hybrid Audio Technologies 3 Way Legatia Set
8" Midbass
3" Midrange
1" Tweeter
Sub: Image Dynamics IDQ10v3D2
Sound Deadening : Second Skin Damplifier
Wiring : Streetwires

Now the Pics...


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## Mr. C (Oct 17, 2008)

This has potential. Tuning in for this build.


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## sam3535 (Jan 21, 2007)

Nice TT, I have an 07 silver ARB Cruiser. Deaden the hell out of it as they very noisy to begin with but dropping the dash and deadening the firewall helped tremendously. No issue with the 8's in the doors and with minor trimming I had a set of 10" SLS in them for ****s and giggles for a bit. I ended up putting the mids in the kicks to help with PLD's and tweets in the a-pillar helped raise the stage. PM me if you run into any issues or have questions. I can take the entire interior out in 35 minutes flat without dropping the headliner/dash and 40 minutes with the headliner.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

sam3535 said:


> Nice TT, I have an 07 silver ARB Cruiser. Deaden the hell out of it as they very noisy to begin with but dropping the dash and deadening the firewall helped tremendously. No issue with the 8's in the doors and with minor trimming I had a set of 10" SLS in them for ****s and giggles for a bit. I ended up putting the mids in the kicks to help with PLD's and tweets in the a-pillar helped raise the stage. PM me if you run into any issues or have questions. I can take the entire interior out in 35 minutes flat without dropping the headliner/dash and 40 minutes with the headliner.


with the 9887, and the quarky limitations that i have with the processors i am using, i will be utilizing the T/A on the HU to help with left and right PLD's, but the distance between the pillars and the doors are about the same... 

out of curiosity though, do you have any pics of the kickpanels that you did?


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## sam3535 (Jan 21, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> with the 9887, and the quarky limitations that i have with the processors i am using, i will be utilizing the T/A on the HU to help with left and right PLD's, but the distance between the pillars and the doors are about the same...
> 
> out of curiosity though, do you have any pics of the kickpanels that you did?


For me, I just could not get the mids to sound "right" if you know what I mean. And that was with a 9887, 9255 and p9. I'll check for pics of the kicks and PM you. I suck at taking pictures of my projects!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

alright, had a break so I could visit with my family that came into town. It's time to get started on the install now, and I have all the pieces needed to give me one stellar sound system. First, the obligatory product and comparo pics...

Alpine 9887, with Ipod and Bluetooth









Audison Bit.one









2- JL 300/4v2 and 1 JL 500/1v2









Wires, RCA's, Distro









Thanks to Jon at Hand Crafted Car Audio, the Hybrid Legatia 831v2 3 way set









3 8" JL8w6









Comparo Pics of 8W6 vs. HAT L8


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

First, before we get started, I do have to mention that I have learned a ton from just recently doing the G35 Build. I did a lot of things in there that were dumb, useless, and it just too WAY too much time. My car was in pieces for weeks, due to the fact that I didn't plan the install very well. This has become my focus for this install, so that the utility of having a vehicle will not get lost during the install. 

With that said, I first wanted to take apart the truck enough to run all the wires, cables, inputs, etc. to the appropriate places, so that in the future there will be minimal, if any, disassembly for the car. I know that the fiberglass pillars, sub enclosure, and false floor are all going to take a bit of time, so I saw value in just getting the wires run so i can still use the car while working on those pieces of the project. 

I decided to not use techflex... Why? Outside of looks, it does absolutely nothing, and just adds another expense, and i found was a little more difficult to work with around tight bends. Will there be some techflex? Sure, but only in the areas where there is visible wiring. (i.e. amp rack)

So out goes the seats, etc, and in goes the wiring...


















I found a nice grommet just forward of the battery, sliced a hole, and pulled...









Inside the kickpanel...









I ran 3 sets of 16 gauge speaker wires on each side, and ran the signal cables on the left. 









Out the back...









Tucked and hidden away until I need them...


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Lookin good. Can't wait to see it finished! What kind of time line are you thinking of?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Austin said:


> Lookin good. Can't wait to see it finished! What kind of time line are you thinking of?


realistically, probably month and a half.... my inlaws are coming in tonight, and will be with us for the better part of this month.... so depending on how that goes i might get done real fast as most of my time will be spent in the garage!:laugh:


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## AAAAAAA (Oct 5, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> out of curiosity though, do you have any pics of the kickpanels that you did?



I know this wasn't directed at me but I had lots of fun doing FJ stereo stuff so here the ones I made for a "client":

















These are a different pair, these were the first ones I made for myself.

























That is my favorite FJ color, I had a black one.. rather have a black one, I am going tomorow to trade it in for a ..... venza.... hehe oh well. 

Good luck with the rest of the build I will keep an eye on it.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

one day i hope to do one of these! keep up the good work


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

well, not much done today in the way of install... just masked and prepped the area for the sub enclosure and test fitted the baffle template. It's a tight fit, but i think i can get all three 8's in there, keeping a nice stock factory look. It still amazes me at how long it takes to get all this properly masked... 










After i got that completed I started messing around with amp rack configurations. I need some suggestions people, so give me your insights. My wife and i came up with pretty much every option we could think of, but if there are others, please suggest them to me. 

I had orignally planned all three amps on the other side of the truck, directly facing the subs. However, these amps are too big, and i would still have to figure out where to put the distribution block and the bit one. so I figure false floor is best configuration. I am planning on having covers on everything, and maybe plexi, maybe not...just depends on how i feel.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If you're planning on a false floor I like the last one....if you want storage under said false floor I like the one where the amps are side-by-side toward the front of the vehicle.

Jay


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## Dakota548ci (Jan 5, 2008)

I like the 5th pic down. Its going to look sharp with the 3 8" in the panel. Its funny, I just sold one of the JL audio plates for 3 8" woofers.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i think i am kinda leaning towards the last one as well...


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

mattyjman said:


> i think i am kinda leaning towards the last one as well...



X2. More room to go around the amps with the wiring.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

alright guys, got started with the fiberglass mold. I pulled it out after only a couple layers of chop mat, trimmed it, and then after, I put down another three layers of glass including a layer of kyntex, and two layers of fabric mat (no pics of this...it's a hastey process)...it's starting to come together...





































i also started working on the sub mounting. I have a 3/4" baffle and 1/2" trim piece. I am waiting for the fiberglass mold to dry so i can cut a template and then cut the baffle to fit the mold...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

mattyjman said:


>


It looks mad. 

Jay


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

hahahahah yeah it does! Like its screaming or something :laugh:


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Just curious.. Why did you cut the hole in the back of the mold?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Austin said:


> Just curious.. Why did you cut the hole in the back of the mold?


there is a little pocket in there, and to ensure i have enough airspace, I will be molding this with fiberglass and attaching it to the sub box. This will probably give me another .5 cu feet. It may look big, but there isn't that much airspace available, especially when you factor in 3 big basket and motor assemblies for the subs...


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

mattyjman said:


> there is a little pocket in there, and to ensure i have enough airspace, I will be molding this with fiberglass and attaching it to the sub box. This will probably give me another .5 cu feet. It may look big, but there isn't that much airspace available, especially when you factor in 3 big basket and motor assemblies for the subs...


Oh i see. Was it too difficult to do it with the main part of the mold?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Austin said:


> Oh i see. Was it too difficult to do it with the main part of the mold?


honestly, i didn't even try. i hate fiberglassing upside down.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)




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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Lookin good. What is in that last picture?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Austin said:


> Lookin good. What is in that last picture?


oh, i guess some explanation of that would be worthwhile...

thats the back of the factory sub. the part that i glassed was the portion of the sub that sat in the back area where i cut the mold. I am molding this as a separate piece and then will attach it to the main sub box.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

mattyjman said:


> oh, i guess some explanation of that would be worthwhile...
> 
> thats the back of the factory sub. the part that i glassed was the portion of the sub that sat in the back area where i cut the mold. I am molding this as a separate piece and then will attach it to the main sub box.


Ohhh ok got it. That piece will be a perfect fit haha.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

alright, still working on the sub enclosure... slowly but surely. i also started working on the front stage. I made some rings both for the tweets and the mids, glued them together and aimed them on the pillars. I was quite hasty during this process, and after stretching grill cloth and glassing over, i realized that i was not happy with what was being built. 




























so, back to drawing board... i decided to do one piece baffles, flushing the mid so there is room for a grill to be placed right over. i also decided to angle the edges so that the glass and grill cloth will have a more effective junction with the trim rings.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

here are a few pics of the sub... still a work in progress, but it's getting closer... looking good mounted, I think with some black vinyl this will look very good, especially with the three JL cones...






































Back to the a-pillars... one thing that i have learned is that if you take your time in the prep work, the less correctional work you will have to do later. This process of aiming, glueing, stretching and trimming never ceases to amaze me how long it really takes. Do i over do things? Probably, but these pillars are going to need very little cosmetic work after the glass is done.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

got some glassing done and got the fuse location figured out and mounted... you can't really tell in these pictures, but the fuse is the same height as the other surrounding "boxes"


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

at this point in the log, i am getting pretty upset with the pillars. i figured that latest iteration of pillars would yield a cohesive look, but it's just too busy and I am not happy with it... maybe i am hard to please, but this just isn't going to cut it... (crappy iphone pic, sorry)










so, time to tear apart the pillars, yet again. i managed to be able to keep the rings, which was a plus, so after that was all disassembled, i started playing around with other configurations and options that are available. 

i decided to get the mid and put it where the factory tweeter/mid is on the dash, only with a better angle for image. 





































stretching the grill cloth proved problematic, as the factory plastic was pretty flimsy and prone to flexing, but this is what i came up with... 










btw, i have no idea how things got so wrinkly when glassing.... this was all tight, but i suppose that's why they created body filler?

i also started on the amp rack... i decided on pic 5... i think it will yield a spacious but cohesive look










next up, more amp rack, body filler on the sub and mid pods, and starting the pillars for the tweeters...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

mattyjman said:


> stretching the grill cloth proved problematic, as the factory plastic was pretty flimsy and prone to flexing, but this is what i came up with...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Because grille cloth stretches and the resin weighs ALOT more than it can support. I would use either a) less resin on the initial coat(s), or b) a different material like fleece. However, grille cloth is better for things that need to show alot of detail. If you don't need to show detail, fleece might be better, but it doesn't stretch as much.

It's happened to me a few times. I've also heard you can thin resin w/ acetone, but I've never tried it.

Nice progress, looks good.

Jay


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## Se7en (Mar 28, 2007)

Looking good man!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

This is a really good quality build, i'm really impressed and wish i had the time/garage to do it in. keep it up


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

if it were ME... i'd t/a the mids and tweets as a whole on the front outputs using the arc xover to separate them, use the midbasses on the rear outputs with their own t/a, and the sub on the sub line.

Is that what you had in mind? looking good so far.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

norcalsfinest said:


> if it were ME... i'd t/a the mids and tweets as a whole on the front outputs using the arc xover to separate them, use the midbasses on the rear outputs with their own t/a, and the sub on the sub line.
> 
> Is that what you had in mind? looking good so far.


initially that was the plan, but i have the BitOne now, so each channel is going to have more control...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

JayinMI said:


> Because grille cloth stretches and the resin weighs ALOT more than it can support. I would use either a) less resin on the initial coat(s), or b) a different material like fleece. However, grille cloth is better for things that need to show alot of detail. If you don't need to show detail, fleece might be better, but it doesn't stretch as much.
> 
> It's happened to me a few times. I've also heard you can thin resin w/ acetone, but I've never tried it.
> 
> ...


the problem here, was i think i a.) either stretched too tight, or b.) didn't use enough hot glue/let it sit long enough to harden all the way.. 

thanks for the tips though, i appreciate your comments...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

welp, got more done today.. it's weird, as I am doing these things, and I am thinking about custom stereo shops and how much time it takes them to do things that i am doing. I have it in my head that they would be much quicker, but in all actuality, maybe not. 

for example, i probably spend about 30 minutes stretching grill cloth per side, for each pillar.... anywho, just an interesting thought in how much i could actually charge myself for this custom work....

i made a little bit more headway on the amp rack, it fits like a glove and doesn't actually take up that much room....





































got some body filler on the sub box and the mid panels... 



















and lastly, got the tweets aimed in the pillars and stretched and resined... 



















when i get a good pic of the combo i'll put one up, but the tweet is just barely sitting to the side and top of where the mids end on the dash... i think this will look pretty good and sound cohesive as well...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

today was a day of sanding and milkshakes.... lots of sanding...

the mid pods after a preliminary sanding, there were a few spots that needed to be filled in...










and the sub box...










managed to get the entire garage dirty today with the milkshake, in the sub box, and the back of the mid pods...










and i used some body filler to start on the pillars... i'll be happy when this part of the project is over...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

made some more head way today... 

i started by turning my attention to the midbasses, running the wiring to the proper locations, continuing the sanding process for the mids and tweets, and deadening the doors and door cards...

i had some pretty big holes in the doors, and wanted to seal them up to give the L8's the optimum playing conditions... 

took some home depot signs, cut them to size, and outfitted them with 2.5 layers of damplifier...




























started deadening the door... now i would have gone for complete coverage, but since i only had one box of damplifier left, i had to split it up between the door cards, door panels, and the other side. my focus was to hit the resonant parts of the panels, and seal all the holes... after completion, i tapped all around the door, and it all sounds quite solid...



















next, i turned my attention to the door cards... 



















originally, there is just a cut out for 6x9 opening, so i spent some time drilling out the extra holes in the door to allow the L8 to play without any door panel in the way... this took entirely way to long...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

continued update of today....

after going through all the panels, i turned my attention to sanding the pillars... there are a few spots that i have to hit to finish it well, but for the most part, i am quite happy how they turned out...



















i then trimmed out the baffles for the L3's, as instructed in the manual










i created the baffles for the midbass, and then got them mounted them on the doors... it's looking good!!


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## sam3535 (Jan 21, 2007)

Wow, it's just like watching my truck come together...but MUCH quicker. One quick question: you do realize that dynomat disperses sound right? It will actually bring down your deebeezs!! I still check out that other forum once a month just to laugh my ass off.


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## indpowr (Mar 18, 2010)

You have great skills. It must be crazy to hear a car sound like that. Maybe some day.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

sam3535 said:


> Wow, it's just like watching my truck come together...but MUCH quicker. One quick question: you do realize that dynomat disperses sound right? It will actually bring down your deebeezs!! I still check out that other forum once a month just to laugh my ass off.


haha,yeah, that was hillarious.... it made the audio system 50% quieter... hah...dumbass...


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

mattyjman said:


> haha,yeah, that was hillarious.... it made the audio system 50% quieter... hah...dumbass...


wait... what? this is a joke right?

link please


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Looks great man keep up the good work!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

AdamTaylor said:


> wait... what? this is a joke right?
> 
> link please


Rockin' Stereo = Rattle Trap...HELP - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

4th post, "near death" is his name... 

it's sad, people on this forum, on the stereo side, discuss if they should get 2 way or 3 way coaxials... no one ever mentions components...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

so, today, i put everything together finally, so i could do a "dry" run and see where i am at... i must say, i am quite pleased... from just level matching, the stage is high, probably just below the mirror and the width is "so so"... when i get more time to tune, i think this will turn out quite well... 

as far as the mids and tweets, i was a little nervous how they would look, but upon putting them in, all fears went away... when covered in the proper colors, this will look really neat, and the sound from the placement is great...














































and lastly, a shot of the amp rack and wires everywhere.... 

yes, i know, i have a **** ton of rca's in there... i had already purchased these before i changed to having the bit one... i will be putting shorter ones in soon, but either way, when i get the top panel on, none of the wiring would be visible anyway...


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

that is one great looking trunk layout and i despise you for 3 older 8w6s.. i had 3 tens and sold them for some stupid reason.


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## gymrat2005 (Oct 4, 2009)

looks good Matty! If I may ask, what are you running the L3's down to, and how sharp of a slope are you using?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I really like the way the mid/tweeter flow together...this is definitely more pleasing to the eye than your other design.

One of you 8W6's looks crooked tho. 

Jay


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

gymrat2005 said:


> looks good Matty! If I may ask, what are you running the L3's down to, and how sharp of a slope are you using?


to early for a final verdict, but i am liking them at 250 hz at 12db/oct... only had about an hour of tuning yesterday, and didn't get very far, so this will probably change, but they sound good


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

JayinMI said:


> One of you 8W6's looks crooked tho.
> 
> Jay


Its called "character"...


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

looking good man


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

so, a little update... after putting everything in for a dry run, I have been able to take some time and really dive into the tuning of the car. one of the things that has surprised me is how incredibly loud AND clean the Hybrids are. I found very soon that the three 8w3's just don't cut it. 

i had a spare JBL w12gti sitting around from my last install, so I decided to make a temp box and throw that in there to see how it went. i made a 2.5 ft/3 box with a tuning of 29hz. pretty flat on paper, and after some eq on the bottom end, sounded pretty damn good. 




























after taking a few listens to Mikey7182's truck, i realized that i was much more into "sql" than i thought. there are times where i like the subs to blend in and be "hidden" but other times, and i think more so with the music that i listen to, i want a stronger hit, and impact from the subs. the w12gti really surprised me, and i was sold.

i sourced another w12gti on ebay, and another jl 500/1v2 amp, and started designing a new box and amprack. i would share the designs, but can't quite figure out how to get the google sketchup pictures uploaded. so the box in development will have to suffice for now. 

this box is 4 ft/3 after displacement of the ports and amp rack, tuned at 30 hz. the box has an integrated amp rack, and will hold 2 jl500/1's and 2 jl300/4's and the bit one. i have ordered a stacking kit for the amps, so i will have 2 sets of amps flanking the bit one in the middle. the two subs will be inverted to show off their sexy baskets

this is the progress for that to date..


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

your build is awesome and has given me some inspiration for my 2010 TT. i was going to pass on doing audio in it and sell my old equipment from my old install but i think i might keep it around for a bit.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

bcutshall said:


> your build is awesome and has given me some inspiration for my 2010 TT. i was going to pass on doing audio in it and sell my old equipment from my old install but i think i might keep it around for a bit.


thanks for the compliments, i really like working on the fj... there is enough space everywhere, so it's really easy to work with. the only thing that bothers me is there isn't so much "hidden" space to hide stuff... i gave up entirely on hiding 4 amps and these 2 12's...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

To show my Sketchup! pics, I had to do a screen capture and crop it.

Jay


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> thanks for the compliments, i really like working on the fj... there is enough space everywhere, so it's really easy to work with. the only thing that bothers me is there isn't so much "hidden" space to hide stuff... i gave up entirely on hiding 4 amps and these 2 12's...


i know what you mean, i have 3 zapco ref amps from my old build and no where to put them. my last build they were all hidden (Tacoma) but with the FJ, there really isn't a place put them, all 3 of them. I wish they had a little bit of storage under the rear seats. making it as factory looking and as stealthy of an install is my ultimate goal, but pretty hard with no where to hide.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

So the 4cf/30hz enclosure is for 2 12" gti's correct? I've been running a single 12" Treo TSX ported at 2cf/33hz for 2 years now (in a minivan no less) but finally threw in a single Memphis HPO 15" in a 2cf stuffed sealed box and love it as well...

I always like how the JBL Gti subs were so understated on the front....I'd like to hear one sometime myself...

Keep up the great fab work!


Jeremy


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

niceguy said:


> So the 4cf/30hz enclosure is for 2 12" gti's correct? I've been running a single 12" Treo TSX ported at 2cf/33hz for 2 years now (in a minivan no less) but finally threw in a single Memphis HPO 15" in a 2cf stuffed sealed box and love it as well...
> 
> I always like how the JBL Gti subs were so understated on the front....I'd like to hear one sometime myself...
> 
> ...



yep, 4 ft/3 for the 2 12's... i really like the w12's, they play fast and are quite musical... with some punch... i just wish that all this didn't have to go in a "square"


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Looking good man- I like the enclosure design! Let's meet up when you have it all in.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

mikey7182 said:


> Looking good man- I like the enclosure design! Let's meet up when you have it all in.


thanks man, but i think i am going to change the design again.... having the baskets out or the subs on top is really going to limit the usability of the back, so i am going to go back to having a flat top, and have the subs and port either front or back firing... i think that's the best compromise right now...

but we'll definitley have to meet up when it's done... i have spent some time with the bitone and the front stage sounds really good (of course, that's my subjective opinion), but it really cranks... i LOVE the Hybrids


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

i agree with you changing the design of the box again. that is one of the big things i am considering in my build, keeping that back area completely usable. most likely i will try to keep the sub in the factory location.

can't wait to see more progress pics


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

bcutshall said:


> i agree with you changing the design of the box again. that is one of the big things i am considering in my build, keeping that back area completely usable. most likely i will try to keep the sub in the factory location.
> 
> can't wait to see more progress pics


if you are going to use those zapco amps, you are going to need to consider a false floor of some sort... a 10 or a 12 in the factory sub location wouldn't be bad, but for me, I wanted more slam. realistically, on a normal day, these 3 8w6's would be plenty for most people, and they extend pretty low too, with a decent transient response. however.... 

It just doesn't cut it for me...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i like the design of my previous box, and so will keep kind of the same theme, however, i will have the subs and the port front or rear firing... i haven't decided yet, but this is a quick model of the new box ( keep in mind i'm not a sketch up pro..., and these are just screen shots as suggested earlier)

5 cubes not including displacements, 28hz tuning... only 13 inches tall 










and, just for ****s and giggles... i will be slapping the three 8w6's in a quick box, just to see how they do ported as well... i was surprised at how large of a box they required just to get a decent response curve in winISD

2.5 cubes, 34hz tune


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

anybody have any idea on what to do with all the scrap wood i am accumulating.... ??? it just keeps stacking up and i can't think for the life of me what i would do with it, other than throw it away of course....


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> if you are going to use those zapco amps, you are going to need to consider a false floor of some sort... a 10 or a 12 in the factory sub location wouldn't be bad, but for me, I wanted more slam. realistically, on a normal day, these 3 8w6's would be plenty for most people, and they extend pretty low too, with a decent transient response. however....
> 
> It just doesn't cut it for me...


yeah a single 10 should do it for me, was looking at a Morel Ultimo SC. if i went with anything you just posted up, the wife and the dog would kill me for taking up all their precious space.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

mattyjman said:


> anybody have any idea on what to do with all the scrap wood i am accumulating.... ??? it just keeps stacking up and i can't think for the life of me what i would do with it, other than throw it away of course....


Ha, you should see my garage...over a period of nearly 10 years (first ported 12" box built INSIDE my 1br apartment when first married).

I keep saying I might need to build some more speaker baffles,etc but then I think, I could throw this away and simply spend another $6 or whatever IF I do need it down the road. I think I'm putting mine in the dumpster...but I've been saying that


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

okay, got the beginning of the box done today... i'm waiting on some rca supplies and fans, etc to continue, so until the middle of this week i am stopped... here's what we have so far...






































and the box for the JL w6's...


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

You know, that's not too bad, 2.5cf for 3 ported 8's....my Tangband 740c likes about 1cf ported itself, so you're only looking at about what, .7-.8 per sub...that's not bad.

Boxes look good...I haven't built an enclosure in over a year now because I hate the cleanup since I don't have an outside shop. But everytime I see prefab boxes, I know I'll eventually build another at some point...


Jeremy


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i dropped the box in the back to just see what it looks like and if it fits.... 

well, it fits, but this box is huge... i'm gonna go with it for now, and my wife says it's fine, but i have a feeling that in the near by future, she is going to have some problems with it...








(crappy iphone pic, sorry)


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

even with a crappy iphone picture, it still looks amazing


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i got me some fans, 8 total... i hope they do the job well as it gets hot out here in the summers..










finished detailing the box, ie making sure holes are sealed, routing the edges, etc.. 

got out the ole spray gun and vinyl, and started covering the box/amp rack



















and the fan bank... i used hot glue to keep everything from moving, and sealed up all areas around the fan to make sure that no air is escaping after being pushed in... 



















now it's time to make some rca's... wish me luck...


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

wow dude, looks pretty good. you got some talent.


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## bkjay (Jul 7, 2009)

Nice job!!


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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

It looks like you have the fans both moving air in the same direction. Is there going to be a cover over the amps? If so, perhaps you should flip one side of fans to create more of a tunnel effect.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

alachua said:


> It looks like you have the fans both moving air in the same direction. Is there going to be a cover over the amps? If so, perhaps you should flip one side of fans to create more of a tunnel effect.


He is probably going to wire one side inverse. I am guessing because he probably didn't want the fan wires inside the amp rack.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i am making good headway. i am kicking myself now, but the amp rack is a little small depth wise, so it's gonna be a tight fit getting power, rcas, etc, all in place without it looking like a mess. so today i spent a bulk of my time routing the power and speaker cables, techflexing and heatshrinking everything so it all looks good. 

every time i get to this step in an install i start dreading it like there's no tomorrow. it ALWAYS takes longer than expected. anywho, just a few pics while in the process...

my distrubution of wires takes place on the back of the box, and will later be covered by a trim panel..










next, i have run the power under a stand for the bitone, and run two seperate sides for the amps (2 on each side)










now i am doing all this, outside of the truck, so i went and picked up a wiring strip from radioshack... this way i can have this all assembled, and only need to insert rcas, power and ground wires, and attach the speakers wires. should be pretty easy now to do that


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

looks awesome man, can't wait to see the finished amp rack


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

mattyjman said:


> at this point in the log, i am getting pretty upset with the pillars. i figured that latest iteration of pillars would yield a cohesive look, but it's just too busy and I am not happy with it... maybe i am hard to please, but this just isn't going to cut it... (crappy iphone pic, sorry)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now you're getting at what I'd like to ultimately do on the dash in my xB


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

HondAudio said:


> Now you're getting at what I'd like to ultimately do on the dash in my xB


i have zero complaints on where they are located and it sounds absoultely fantastic... i would definitley recommend it if you can do it...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

I finally got the wiring done, with the exception of rca's... and believe me, it was a PITA>@$#!< one thing i will remember in the future, is to leave plenty of room for all the wiring that needs to take place. the amps are stacked and the bit one is in the middle, with power and speaker wires running all over the place... i will take some better pics during the day, but it doesn't look bad at all, and it's quite organized. anywho... 



















i did run into one snag however... 










my power wire (1/0 awg) is about two inches too short from when i cut it before. the ring terminal i have will extend this about an inch, but that's still an inch short. i was damn sure it would reach, but apparently not. any suggestions????


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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

Stinger Electronics | Product Details

Use that as a handy way to make it easier to pull out, just get some new 1/0 to run from it to your input on the fuse block.

-Cliff


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Matt, I have a 1/0 butt splice connector and some extra 1/0 that I can bring tomorrow if you need it. The splicer isn't Stinger, but it is essentially the same thing. We can cut your existing wire back a foot or so and splice in a new 18" piece so you have plenty of slack.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

thanks for the assistance guys, but i managed to eek out a few more inches out of the wiring... it's all in there now and up and running... i have some pictures ill post tomorrow


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## M3NTAL (Apr 9, 2006)

I had a chance to listen to Matt's FJ this afternoon. He has quite the skill for attention to detail. From the system layout to construction, it was all very nice work.

The system has been tuned for the driver seat - this provides a great center image right at eye level and out in front of the front windshield.

The L8 Legatia drivers do an amazing job in the doors. They could go all the way down in to sub territory if the end used wanted to go sub-less.

I can't wait to see this system all wrapped up completely. Thanks again for letting me listen.

Cheers


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

M3NTAL said:


> I had a chance to listen to Matt's FJ this afternoon. He has quite the skill for attention to detail. From the system layout to construction, it was all very nice work.
> 
> The system has been tuned for the driver seat - this provides a great center image right at eye level and out in front of the front windshield.
> 
> ...


I listened to it again as well- the enclosure looks great with tons of attention to detail. The setup is definitely more dialed in than last time, and the pair of W12GTi were a great step up from the trio of 8W6. No bias there...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

well thanks guys... it was fun meeting up with you guys! mike and adam, let me know when you want to get together to work on your stuff...more than happy to help


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i never posted final pics of the box/amp rack...



















but alas... this hobby is such that things just don't stay the same for too long ...

teaser pic...


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## zblee (May 18, 2010)

wow great work, very clean install


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## M3NTAL (Apr 9, 2006)

uh oh! He's got something up his sleeve!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

M3NTAL said:


> uh oh! He's got something up his sleeve!


didn't i tell you what i have planned? i have two 12's up for grabs, you want them?


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Nice build. I like that you are using SketchUp! I helped develop that product up until Google bought it. Lots of great days back then and I still use it often. I traveled for @Last Software (original owners) often, teaching end users how to get the most out of it. Let me know if you ever have any questions on it!! Meanwhile....looking forward to the final unveiling!


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## bergend2 (Jun 2, 2010)

Awesome work! You definitely have some skills. I wish I knew how to fiberglass.


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## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

Haha... this pic reminded me of Johnny 5 

The build looks good man.



mattyjman said:


>


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

AMONG ALL THINGS FJ! THIS ROCKS!

I had an FJ and was going to go a similar path but it was stolen from me..... A quick hint on trying to get everything to fit and a cool idea that I never got to finish...

There is a large amt of room under the rear storage quarters that can be utilized. When my truck was stolen I was in the process of cutting a 14x14" hole in the floor for the sub enclosure and mounting a thin false floor like your original concept for the amps. The Sub enclosure would extend outside of the truck and to the under carriage behind the rear axle where there is about 5 cuft or more of air space to work with. The plan was to weld up a medium gauge metal shield to cover the mdf enclosure on the underside of the truck and have a JL 13w7 sub ported to hit the lows in that large enclosure. Always wanted to see the plan through to its completed awesomeness... But never got to.... Dam car robbers! 

Ohh and 2 of your amps will fit under the front seats if you need to create more room for stuff 

The beginning of my build log is still here on DIYMA.... or on the link in my sig I loved the FJC!

Great work! And enjoy the fun and flexibility that the FJ offers for us audio lovers


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

Wow beautiful work. Im surprised your not going to keep using the gti 12's. I have a single 10 and love it. So whats next? huh? whats gonna happen?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

kizz said:


> Wow beautiful work. Im surprised your not going to keep using the gti 12's. I have a single 10 and love it. So whats next? huh? whats gonna happen?


i'll give you a hint... i'm taking out the HAT's too...


don't get me wrong, i loved the w12gti's... all i can say is it's a sickness


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## disturbedklownz (Feb 19, 2008)

very nice and clean. keep it up


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

mattyjman said:


> i'll give you a hint... i'm taking out the HAT's too...
> 
> 
> don't get me wrong, i loved the w12gti's... all i can say is it's a sickness


a sickness is right. You nailed that one on the head. taking out the hats huh? dang, with everything Ive heard about the hats I don't know what you could move up to. keep us updated. btw, how were the gti's ported? im running my 10 IB and thinking about trying ported but don't want to lose the musicality of it. whats your take on it?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

kizz said:


> a sickness is right. You nailed that one on the head. taking out the hats huh? dang, with everything Ive heard about the hats I don't know what you could move up to. keep us updated. btw, how were the gti's ported? im running my 10 IB and thinking about trying ported but don't want to lose the musicality of it. whats your take on it?


don't get me wrong on the HAT's either... they are phenominal. probably the best set of components i have ever heard. but i am moving to something much better... 

the w12gti's would still be in my truck if they didn't take up so much room with their deep basket. ported they are awesome, sealed they are so so in my eyes. i have never done them IB, but you def would lose any misicallity of these subs, they are fantastic. you will lose trunk space though...


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

well.. my baby's came in today... it's time to rip out the rest of the truck...


























yes, those are 10's.... 

more to come...


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

Hmmmmm......Interesting. Are you going to do any custom work on your door panels for those big berthas?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

kizz said:


> Hmmmmm......Interesting. Are you going to do any custom work on your door panels for those big berthas?


i haven't decided yet if i am going to IB them, or if i am going to make door pods. i want to do sealed, and they only need like .5 cubes, so i can squeeze that out i think, but integration is the problem i am having. we'll see...

once i get the door cards off i will see if i can get the airspace i need


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

The FJ has pretty big doors doesn't it? I suppose with some ingenuity (is that how you spell it?) and some time you could make pods big enough. Those tens are going to make your legs shake!  Which of course is really cool. what size is the midrange? using the same dash pods?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

kizz said:


> The FJ has pretty big doors doesn't it? I suppose with some ingenuity (is that how you spell it?) and some time you could make pods big enough. Those tens are going to make your legs shake!  Which of course is really cool. what size is the midrange? using the same dash pods?


shaking legs was kinda what i was going for... there are more surprises to come as well, but not for now... 

the midranges are 6" faital pro 6fe100


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

according to my magic 8 ball, I see custom kick panels in your future!


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

matty, hit me up, im in dire need of your L8's


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## JayGold (May 12, 2010)

Man, I wish I had the vehicle space close to what you have to work with.


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## toysoldier3646 (Jan 25, 2010)

this was a good read. your legatias will be put to good use....thanks again. I was wondering tho how you liked the L3's inthe dash at that angle. I'm considering doing something similar since my a-pillars already make it hard to see. I might put them higher in the doors too if I can beat the steering wheel


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## bcutshall (Apr 5, 2007)

any update on this beast?


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

its getting redone... completely


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

AdamTaylor said:


> its getting redone... completely


.  .


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

How do you secure the stretched edges of the mold cloth before resin is applied? I have tried many things, but have failed when it come to plastic and mold cloth. This picture shows exactly what im talking about on the bottom. The tension gave out and is going to cause a lot of clean up issues with filler.


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## FLAstrongman (Sep 22, 2010)

you need a good upholstery stapler.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

i use hot glue normally, when i did those i think i was rushed and upset, so i think that's why that happened... i don't normally have issues with hot glue, but you have to take your time and let is set up... scuffing up the plastic is helpful too


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## ALL4SQ (Mar 28, 2009)

Personally I only soak the middle section of the parts first. I leave about 1" around the periphery dry to allow for stretching. After the center is dry I then go back and soak the rest of the part with resin. This can really help with warping issues. I also carefully measure out the hardener. To much hardener = Warped panel. 

Just trying to help.


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## mrstangerbanger (Jul 12, 2010)

great build bro 


How do you like the bit one?

I was going to get that our the ms-8.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

mrstangerbanger said:


> great build bro
> 
> 
> How do you like the bit one?
> ...


thanks -- it's all gone now 

the ms8 and the bitone are two very different beasts, but both should get you to a very smooth sounding system


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## mrstangerbanger (Jul 12, 2010)

Ya after going to the MECA event this weekend with my friends from Audio Experts i got to listen to a lot of great cars.

some with bit ones 

some with ms-8

and a lot with Alpine 701's but i really like how the ms-8 is simple and is a set it and forget it processor. 

But i also like the bit one because there is a lot more adjustability with it.


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## djcortes (Jan 19, 2012)

So, I know this is a pretty old thread. But what happened with this build? I am about to purchase an FJ and would like to see the finish results.

-David


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

it's as finished as it's going to get... i traded it in a while ago


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