# MDF baffles



## doeboy (May 2, 2012)

Are there any particular users on the board that are good at making these things? There is a guy on ebay selling 6.5' mdf baffles that look like they would work. I have learned a lot about sound deadening a door from the site so I figure I would hit up an expert on this board that has done it before going with some guy on ebay. I have boston acoustic component sr60's. This is also my first post so take it easy on me =D:laugh:


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## Mike-G (Dec 25, 2008)

I also am looking for some for my Hybrid L3 and Imagine tweeter sets. I would do it, but have neither the means or space to perform this.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

I wont know until saturday what I have left over, but pm me what you need dimension wise, and maybe I can router something up this weekend, if I have the wood left over.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

doeboy said:


> Are there any particular users on the board that are good at making these things? There is a guy on ebay selling 6.5' mdf baffles that look like they would work. I have learned a lot about sound deadening a door from the site so I figure I would hit up an expert on this board that has done it before going with some guy on ebay. I have boston acoustic component sr60's. This is also my first post so take it easy on me =D:laugh:



I make them.

PM me.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

I recently made a set for some 6.75" Focal midbass drivers for my Honda Insight. The oem excremental units were mounted to a flimsy door panel flange. My solution was to mount them to the inner door frame and enlarge the door panel opening to fit over my new mounts.

I used .75" MDF and had to double up to achieve the desired thickness. Using a router with a Jasper circle jig, it's pretty simple. They turned a bit too thick. Rather than just cut one of them down, I cut them both but on opposite sides using a rabbet bit so they interlock like puzzle pieces and should seal up very well once glued together. They fit so well that if I had to do this again, I would do the same as part of the plan.


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## WannaBBurly (Dec 20, 2009)

Nice call on the the rabbet move!

I picked up my Jasper jig from the Jasper facility. Nice folks over there. Great design too.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

I found HDPE in the exact thickness I needed (1.25") and cut new rings.



















The more posts I read about MDF in doors, the more I wanted to avoid it.


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

avoid that **** at all costs..
nasty nasty nasty and if you don't seal it really well( ie many coats of sumin)..
it will go apeshit eventually absorbing water.. and swelling an ugh well just nasty stuff..
any wood is never good in a car..exp in the hot humid south.. yea i know millions of u guys use it.. but i got a piece 6 months old ( HQ canadian stuff too) that has swelled 1.5mm( 0.60") in 6 months just sitting in my garage and looks like hellO

it gets humid in the south!
if you do use it seal it with lacquer or some of that good 3M paintable body undercoat.


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## dwhite832003 (Jan 19, 2013)

Where can I pick up some of the hdpe? And is it just like working with wood?


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## jpdnkstr (Jan 6, 2013)

Awesome rings! I am also interested in the HDPE source, as I need to make some rings (adapters)5x7 to 6 1/2, for my 2001 Explorer front doors, I would like to get rid of the factory plastic spacer and mount directly to the door like you!


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

dwhite832003 said:


> Where can I pick up some of the hdpe? And is it just like working with wood?


I cut them to rough shape with my band saw and did the rest with my router/circle guide. I used a 1/4" staight bit and then a 3/4" roundover since I under-cut just a bit and the roundover made it fit my Focal's frame perfectly. HDPE cuts very nicely. Unlike MDF, which creates a hazardous ultrafine dust that goes everywhere, HDPE makes more like a pile of chips. Any woodworking saw will cut HDPE. Just take it slowly.

I found a local supplier (Regal Plastic) after a bit of Googling. I went to their shop and found exactly what I needed- a 7" cut from a 1.25" thick sheet. Their staff is very friendly and the turnaround on my cut order was reasonably quick.

Regal Plastic - General Purpose

Before I found Regal, I was going to order from Interstate Plastics and have it shipped.

Regal Plastic - General Purpose




jpdnkstr said:


> Awesome rings! I am also interested in the HDPE source, as I need to make some rings (adapters)5x7 to 6 1/2, for my 2001 Explorer front doors, I would like to get rid of the factory plastic spacer and mount directly to the door like you!


Thank you. I highly recommend this material for door baffles vs. MDF. It was good practice making them though. Some installers say they've never had MDF baffles go bad, but doors get wet inside  and I would rather not have to worry about it after it's all done. All you need to make a pair of rings for any set of 6.5's is 7 x 14". This gives you just enough wiggle room to cut it in half and still have enough material for the router to make a nice uniform cut. For best results, cut about half on one side, flip it over and repeat until your cuts meet. A flush trim bit can easily clean up afterwards.

7 x 14 x .75" at Interstate Plastics came to just over $25. 1" thick was $30.


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

doeboy said:


> Are there any particular users on the board that are good at making these things? There is a guy on ebay selling 6.5' mdf baffles that look like they would work. I have learned a lot about sound deadening a door from the site so I figure I would hit up an expert on this board that has done it before going with some guy on ebay. I have boston acoustic component sr60's. This is also my first post so take it easy on me =D:laugh:


I would be interested in buying about four 5x7 MDF rings at either 3/4 or 5/8 thickness, if someone here is willing to make some? 

I do not have the tools to make a decent looking 5x7 MDF baffle.


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## dwhite832003 (Jan 19, 2013)

Might be a little difficult going from 5x7 to 6x9


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

dwhite832003 said:


> Might be a little difficult going from 5x7 to 6x9


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## dwhite832003 (Jan 19, 2013)

HereticHulk said:


>


I don't know where I got 6x9's from lol... I read it in my email so idk... so what exactly are you trying to accomplish? More depth?


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

dwhite832003 said:


> I don't know where I got 6x9's from lol... I read it in my email so idk... so what exactly are you trying to accomplish? More depth?


No, just want a nice solid surface to mount the speakers to the door with. Ya know, decoupling and that whole bit.


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## dwhite832003 (Jan 19, 2013)

Is there an oem baffle that you want to replace or we're you going to use the custom mdf in conjunction with the oem abs opening? Pictures wouldn't hurt either!


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

dwhite832003 said:


> Is there an oem baffle that you want to replace or we're you going to use the custom mdf in conjunction with the oem abs opening? Pictures wouldn't hurt either!


Don't have pictures yet. I am in the market for a truck. It is either going to be a 2002 Ford Ranger or a 2002-03 F-150. Both models have the OEM 6x8's for front and rear. For the front I will be installing JL Audio C5-570 and the rear just some cheaper Infinity 5x7's. 

Not too concerned about mounting depth if using 5/8 MDF baffles. I will most likely be needing to cut the door panel, as I do not think the having that thick of spacer/baffle will allow the speakers fit behind the panels.


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## thomasluke (Jun 10, 2011)

HereticHulk said:


> Don't have pictures yet. I am in the market for a truck. It is either going to be a 2002 Ford Ranger or a 2002-03 F-150. Both models have the OEM 6x8's for front and rear. For the front I will be installing JL Audio C5-570 and the rear just some cheaper Infinity 5x7's.
> 
> Not too concerned about mounting depth if using 5/8 MDF baffles. I will most likely be needing to cut the door panel, as I do not think the having that thick of spacer/baffle will allow the speakers fit behind the panels.


In either one of those trucks your gonna have a hard time getting the C-5's behind the door panel and fitting through the 5x7 hole. 
I ended up cutting the inner door panel metal and cutting the grill out of the door panel.
there's just NO room between the panel and out door metal...Good luck though.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Nice work, now tell me how would you do baffles for this driver? Round driver is easy, where do I start with that one?


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

thomasluke said:


> In either one of those trucks your gonna have a hard time getting the C-5's behind the door panel and fitting through the 5x7 hole.
> I ended up cutting the inner door panel metal and cutting the grill out of the door panel.
> there's just NO room between the panel and out door metal...Good luck though.


I was planning on having to cut the grill out of the door panel. I am not sure what you mean about fitting a 5x7 through the hole?


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## silver6 (Nov 11, 2008)

Victor_inox said:


> Nice work, now tell me how would you do baffles for this driver? Round driver is easy, where do I start with that one?


Make the baffle big and surface mount it.


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## kmbkk (Jun 11, 2011)

I think I'm gonna use HDPE when I do my install. No use having to redo the baffles in a year. Do it right the first time.


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## jbholsters (Jun 17, 2009)

McMaster-Carr


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## thomasluke (Jun 10, 2011)

HereticHulk said:


> I was planning on having to cut the grill out of the door panel. I am not sure what you mean about fitting a 5x7 through the hole?


I meant the frame of the driver. The hole is just big enough. Unless you build it out then you hit the door panel. 
Then there's the alignment of the 5x7 hole and the grill on the door panel. The 5x7 hole is offset and about half of the driver is actually behind the panel and not firing through the grill at all. 
In my case it caused a huge peak from about 150 to 300 hertz and again from 1000 to 3000 hertz. 
Once I cut the grill out and the door metal everything smoothed right out.


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

I also make baffles plates etc

Plastics and mdf


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

oh and for the odd shaped speakers I sell a custom bit specifically for that.


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