# 2021 Camaro 2SS



## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

First build log here for me.
This will likely be a slow build/thread because I have very limited time to spend on it, but hopefully it will move along.

*The Car:*
2021 Camaro 2SS with the OEM Bose system (I need better pics of the car...)
A10 - Summit White - NPP - MRC - Adrenaline Red Interior Pkg - Black Appearance Pkg - Ground Effect Pkg - Suede Steering Wheel and shifter - Red Calipers - Carbon Flash Wheels w black lug nuts - DD Tinted Side Markers - Hero Tinted Rear Reflectors - Redline Fender Badges - 20% Tint









*The Equipment:*
OEM integration

NavTV Zen AVB-GM
DSP

miniDSP C-DSP 8X12
Amplifiers - I was planning to do two amp racks for A/B testing but not sure if I can because of the space...I already had the ARCs from a previous install but I bought the Toros to play with.

(A) ARC Audio SE2300 - Subs
(A) ARC Audio SE4200 - Midbass + Midrange
(A) ARC Audio XDi 450.4 - Tweeters + (optional) Rear Fill
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(B) Toro Rage R4F - Subs
(B) Toro Rage MRx2 - Midbass
(B) Toro Rage MRx4 - Midrange + Tweeters (No real fill)
Speakers

Subs - (2X) Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 in a sealed enclosure
Midbass - Audio Frog GS690 in stock door locations
Midrange - Audio Frog GS25 in stock dash locations
Tweeters - SEAS Prestige H1396 27TFFNC/G in A-Pillars (need to fab)
Rear Fill - Dayton Audio DC130B-4 in stock back seat side panel locations
Other

Resonix CLD, CCF and Butyl Rope
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex power and ground, KNF-60 and KNF-36 distros, Krystal RCA and Karma SS speaker wires
One of the biggest challenges with this car is the tiny, and I mean tiny, trunk. There is a well but it's only 4" deep and less than 20" wide. It also has the MRC Controller + Bose Amp, the main fuse box and some other device in that well; all of which would need relocation.

Here are some pics from my first half-day work on it yesterday. I would really appreciate any ideas on how to do the amp install for the ARC amps. The Toros fit no problem.






























I have no idea where/how to relocate the fuse box and that other device...
I removed the Bose amp and relocated the MRC controller into the bottom of the driver's side quarter panel. The wiring is the flimsy connector that comes with the Zen integration device. I will wrap all the plugs in CCF and then Tessa tape everything. The Zen will be installed on a vertical panel attached to the cross member and the panel on which the MRC controller is mounted









That's it for now. Will keep updating as I move along.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

One option I'm considering for the amp issue is to not do the ARCs at all, and instead buy another Toro Rage MRX4 (They're only $80). Then bridge one of the MRX4s to the GS690s, use the MRX2 on the GS25s and use the other MRX4 for the tweeters and rear fill.
I'm just not sure about pushing 260W (which is theoretical I know, more likely will be around 180W) to the GS690s...


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

I am using 4 of the ARC Amps, 2 -2300 4200 and one 2150. If your looking for a higher SQ I would use them. I have a Genesis build going - would be cool if you were in Portland OR to work together.. Space is always an issue especially on the subs, Morel UL12s use only 1.25 cubes which makes them nice in a sealed enclosure, I am going with IB to save space but my entire trunk is used with 4 amps, 2 15's and all the DSP and power. Check my build log may give you some ideas


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

I would move slowly starting at the trunk so your entire car is not ripped apart, do extensive deadening. I am using Ballistic Competition for the metal, B-quiet VComp for the barrier and Thinsulate for the absorber. If you do this painful and time consuming part you will reap a great benefit in making your car a lot more quieter and will keep the music in your car and road noise out


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

It would definitely be nice to have someone to work with lol.
My plan was to use the ARCs, I know them well and love them.
My only two options if I want to use them is either to raise the floor about 3" or abandon the Dayton subs and try to put in a shallow mount 12" sub in the well and use the space that was for the subs to install the amps...
The main problem is I need to have that fuse box accessible; I can't just bury it in behind the trim.
Oh, and I am going to deaden everything. I have a ton of stuff from Resonix for that. I'm starting from the trunk and only when that's figured out will I start taking interior trim off.


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

I can give you my number so we can collaborate if you like


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

I would use as much of the free space as you can with your components and wiring and create a false floor and then have your Amps and sub above the false floor. I would not move anything since your going to void your warranty if you do. You can remove them to deaden the metal but then install them back. I don't think you have to worry about heat so you may be able to cover them to create your false floor


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

hmmm tried to get some info around Resonix and their page does not give any info around their products and looks like they are out of stock


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

Do you have a closeup picture of your barrier deadener


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Have you tried: ResoNix Sound Solutions – Premium Automotive Sound Treatment Solutions?
They have a great tutorial about deadening here
They have a ton of info on their products. Just click through. Their CLD is top notch.
Creating a false floor doesn't help with the ARC amps because the fuse box takes up almost the entire height so the amps would still sit 2" above that and then the cover. All in 3-4" higher then the normal trunk floor height.
Still working through it though so will see.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Had a day off today so I made some progress.
Got the Zen installed and figured out a layout that will allow me to use the ARCs. I ended up moving that little switch and mounting it to the side of the well with a rivnut which gave me an extra 5"!
This is a rough layout that fits the SE4200 (SE2300 in pic) and the 450.4 (front stage and rear fill) along with the miniDSP.
The MDF board will not stay like that, it's just there for fit test.
















For the SE2300 for the subs I found that I have plenty of space either under the rear deck and above the sub box or between the sub box and the rear seat. Just need to fab a panel and mount it with brackets and rivnuts in one of those two places. The 6X9s in the rear deck are coming out anyway.









Next time I can work on the build will be Saturday and I'm hoping to have amp racks all done by end of day Sunday.


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

Nice looking car, and good luck with the install!
Always nice to see another Ontario plate on here!! Are you in TO/GTA by chance?
Also, where do you source parts from, knowing a lot of the usual retail options sometimes get pricey after import duties and shipping fees?

Following, and possibly interested in seeing/hearing it once done (and maybe even a little work together if you’re down and not far... but I don’t have much to do other than some wood work for a new baffle for my IB).


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Ali-323i said:


> Nice looking car, and good luck with the install!
> Always nice to see another Ontario plate on here!! Are you in TO/GTA by chance?
> Also, where do you source parts from, knowing a lot of the usual retail options sometimes get pricey after import duties and shipping fees?
> 
> Following, and possibly interested in seeing/hearing it once done (and maybe even a little work together if you’re down and not far... but I don’t have much to do other than some wood work for a new baffle for my IB).


Hey Ali Thank you, yeah I'm in the GTA.
I already had some of the parts (ARC amps) the rest I ordered online from various sellers (Parts Express, Amazon, KnuKonceptz, Crutchfield.ca and Sonic Electronics.). It does get pricy for sure. I ship to a cross-border shipper with a U.S. address and they bring it over. Then I pick up the stuff from their Markham location.
We can certainly meet once I'm done. What subs are you running IB? I always wanted to try IB but the install seems daunting...I actually have a pair of Peavy Black Widow 15"s that I bought a long time ago for that purpose but never installed.


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

SWRocket said:


> Hey Ali Thank you, yeah I'm in the GTA.
> I already had some of the parts (ARC amps) the rest I ordered online from various sellers (Parts Express, Amazon, KnuKonceptz, Crutchfield.ca and Sonic Electronics.). It does get pricy for sure. I ship to a cross-border shipper with a U.S. address and they bring it over. Then I pick up the stuff from their Markham location.
> We can certainly meet once I'm done. What subs are you running IB? I always wanted to try IB but the install seems daunting...I actually have a pair of Peavy Black Widow 15"s that I bought a long time ago for that purpose but never installed.


Cheers for the info!

My setup is a trunk IB, not atmospheric, and my seats don’t fold down, in a well sealed trunk (bmw e90), so it actually made for a very easy install. 
I started using a 12w3v3 I already had, and was really impressed with how good it sounded. Sold that woofer, currently using an IDQ12v2 which sounds even a bit better, with more low end response vs the W3, but am in the process of modifying my baffle for an older 12w7 I recently got my hands on. 

I know the JL woofers aren’t made for IB, and I’ll have to limit the power, but there have been enough positive reviews of the w7 and W6 in IB that I figured I’d give it a shot... especially since the w3 surpassed my expectations in IB too!

The w3 was pushed with a JL JX 500/1, but I’ve now got a JL HD 1200/1 to power the W7 when it goes in.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Looks awesome!. The issue I had was sealing all the other holes (rear deck and sides) properly without spray foam. I may work up the guts to try it one day lol.


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

SWRocket said:


> Looks awesome!. The issue I had was sealing all the other holes (rear deck and sides) properly without spray foam. I may work up the guts to try it one day lol.


The bimmer trunk is well sealed, so besides the baffle and cutting my own ski pass behind the rear armrest, nothing else was needed!

If it needed to be sealed, I’d have just gone for another traditional box lol, but I saw on the bimmer forums that this was easy and effective, had never tried (or heard of) IB, so figured may as well try it. 
Glad I did!


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Ali-323i said:


> The bimmer trunk is well sealed,


That's a lucky break! The Camaro is like a sieve...as you can see from the pics above.


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

On the IB, from the pic it does not look like it will allow full excursion, how many inches are you allowing for that?


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

drphilb said:


> On the IB, from the pic it does not look like it will allow full excursion, how many inches are you allowing for that?


The W3 doesn't have a huge xmax and never rubs, I think just the angle of the photo is deceiving (and that's just some electrical tape at the bottom that's peeling a bit, used to cover a thin wire for some LEDs I used). Also, since then, I've added an additional "spacer" of .75" to make a mounting bracket with threaded inserts to make the whole thing removable. I will need to add an additional spacer when I switch to my W7 though!


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## drphilb (Oct 23, 2014)

oh.. I thought I was looking at a W-7 on this. I had 2 W-7 13.5 subs in a sealed enclosure in a Saturn SC2 Coupe, lots of XMAX there.


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

drphilb said:


> oh.. I thought I was looking at a W-7 on this. I had 2 W-7 13.5 subs in a sealed enclosure in a Saturn SC2 Coupe, lots of XMAX there.


LOL, forget xmax, I don't even think the W7 surround would clear it as is lol... will PM you with a couple of Qs I have for you.


Sorry OP for derailing your thread a bit, but I'm still eager to see more progress on your build!!!


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

I had a chance to see this work in progress yesterday, and WOW is it a clean job! This guy is doing it right, and likely rival (well, in most cases, be superior) to a decent shop install!

Lucky to be local to him, and look forward to seeing, and hearing (!!), the final product!!

And a really nice guy too, helped me with some of my own challenges


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments Ali, although I don't come anywhere close to the work the pro installers on here do . 
It was great to meet you and I'm looking forward to hearing that sub.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Had some time this weekend to work on the install. I'll post some picks later this week, for now just descriptions.
Almost finished with CLD in the trunk. 
Got the amps in the well installed and wired and ran the driver side speaker wires. 
two sets of 16AWG for the midrange and tweeter and a 14AWG for the mid bass; The midrange and mid bass are KnuKonceptz Karma and the tweeter wire is a 16AWG OFC NVX wire I had left over. Wrapped the wires together in Tessa tape along the length of the car right on top of the OEM plastic wire channel. Hope to finish running the passenger side wires this week as well as build the amp rack for the sub amp under the rear deck.

The interior panels in this car are clipped in extremely tight...had a heck of time taking them off. The bottom of the rear seat will not come off at all...I know it's removable and how it should be removed, but can't get it to come out...


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Making some progress.
Built a sliding drawer to mount the sub amp under the rear deck, built the box for the Morel Ultimo and ran the speaker wires for the passenger side. Here are some pics
The amp shelf need some cosmetic work, but I'll wait until spring when I can paint outside. Also need to carpet the box and build a panel for it.
Next for today is finishing the rear-deck sound proofing, rear side speaker install and sound proofing and then put the back of the car back together and move to the doors and dash next week.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

So it’s safe to say you got that back seat out huh lol. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Coppertone said:


> So it’s safe to say you got that back seat out huh lol.


LOL, yes, but, man, it was a pain. All the videos show to just pull up on the front of the seat. Well, it may be my weakened old body, but I could not get it to budge. So I tried just pulling up on the back and leveraging it up and forward and it popped right out.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Productive day yesterday.
Got the Dayton rear fill speakers installed, the GS25s installed in the dash and deadened and reinstalled the trim panels on the rear deck and around the back seat.
With all the equipment wired for power, I also did a power-on/power-off test and after a minor scare everything comes on and goes off as it should. Turns out I had a bad crimp on the power wire ferrule on the C-DSP. All's well that ends well...

Here is the full deadened rear deck. CLD, Butyl Rope and CCF from Resonix. I have to say, this stuff is excellent! I also put felt tape on the inside and edge and the top of the rear deck where it meets the back window.


















Bose "something" left - Dayton DC130B-4 in a Scosche SAC-656 adapter right. I had to use some thick foam strips (Fast Rings didn't fit) between the adapter and the panel to close off the front/back waves. Side panels got CLD and Resonix rope on all clips to stop rattles. Didn't put any CCF on there for now, I'm not sure I have enough and want to do the doors first. But if there are rattles I'll remove them (easy re & re) put some.
















Audio Frog GS25 left - Bose "something" right. The unused tabs on the GS25s do break off easily but, I had to use a Dremel to remove the sharp left over stubs. Sorry I forgot to take a pic of the GS25s in the dash but, trust me, they fit perfectly and look OEM.









This weeks goal is to get the doors done. The big challenge there will be getting the 14AWG KnuKnoceptz Karma wire in there...


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## Ali-323i (Oct 4, 2019)

Coming along nicely!! Can’t wait to hear it once it’s all done!


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Ali-323i said:


> Coming along nicely!! Can’t wait to hear it once it’s all done!


Thanks Ali. I can't wait to hear it either lol.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Had a pretty good weekend for progress.
Deadened and installed GS690s in the doors, deadened the trunk lid and floor and reinstalled the trim in the trunk with a USB port for the Minidsp and the zen.
The doors took a long time, but I lucked out with running the wires (14AWG Karma) because I found a rubber grommet on the body side.
I used the NVX baffle shields on top of pre-fab MDF (treated) baffles made for the car and speaker. The NVX shields are great.
The door panels themselves required a lot of work to get all the clips and switches to not rattle.

NVX kit on baffles and GS690. Everything fits like a glove.



















Karma 14AWG running out of the cabin through an OEM rubber grommet and into the door through the existing rubber boot.



























Door panel with Resonix CLD and butyl rope. Also lot's of Tessa tape and felt tape on stuff.










Door with Resonix CLD and butyl rope. I ended up using a another sheet of CLD to close the big hole. I was planning to use plastic, but never did...
On the right Resonix CCF on sealed door and speaker baffle installed with rivnuts and gasketing tape on the back to make sure it's sealed. I also put CLD around the speaker but from the inside.
















More Resonix CCF on the trunk floor where the sub will go. Trunk trim went back in preparation for fitting the sub box in. I also installed a USB port on the driver side for the Minidsp and the Zen OEM integration device so I can connect whenever I need.
















I forgot to take pics of the trunk lid deadening, but I used two full sheets of Resonix CLD in there...

I wrote a short review of working with the Resonix products I used here if anyone is interested. 

Next week: Get the sub box carpeted and installed in the car and, hopefully, start on the tweeter pods for the a-pillars.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Thanks for the pics on the amp shelf. This is a great idea and there’s a good chance I may swipe this idea for my car.  thanks for sharing!

great looking build...keep up the good work!


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Cosmetically, I did a crappy job on the drawer itself, but I'll rebuild it in the spring now that I learned something lol.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Finally got the sub in. It's secured at the back with L-brackets that are attached to the car body with rivnuts; sorry, I forgot to take a picture of that.
Also, got the gains dialed in with the SMD DD1 too. They're almost at zero. but, I have sound! it's crappy sound for now lol, but works.
I also received my printed tweeter pods. I designed them myself with Fusion360 and had a friend print them. They will be sanded and painted and installed once the lamp hardware I ordered comes in.
I have some minor finishing touches to do in the trunk, like securing the sub amp drawer, but it's pretty much done.
Some pics:


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Been busy with work so haven't posted for a while. But I also spent the last couple of weeks trying to get a base tune with a 2-way front stage and failing miserably 
I found out 2 days ago that I have an issue with the minidsp 8x12. For some reason, the rear speakers are playing (at very low volume) even though they are off in the matrix and muted on the outputs. Been communicating with minidsp support. Until that's resolved, I'll have to remove the RCAs from those outputs so I can take proper measurements.

Anyway, got the tweeter pods done (took 3 weeks to get the swivel hardware) and installed them. 
Pics:


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Keeping this up-to-date.
Since I've had so many issues with my Minidsp 8x12 that they refuse to acknowledge and refuse to replace the device, I decided to redo my sub and amp install completely.
I went with a Helix P-SIX MKII DSP amp and a Helix P-ONE sub amp installed on a simple amp board under the rear deck and a JL Audio 12W6V3 stealthbox. The Zen AVB-GM is now installed in place of the Bose AMP on top of the MRC controller. Still need to clean up some wiring, but a full day contorted inside the car was all I could handle this weekend.

Later this year (probably fall) I plan on cutting a new amp rack and a new board for the Zen, but for now I just want to finish my tune and enjoy the car.


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## 50TYSON (Mar 7, 2011)

Complete build and well-documented!

I used this thread as reference to deaden the door panels and order rear fill speakers.


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## magmun (Feb 17, 2021)

Nice car. I was very close to buying a 2021 LT1 Camaro, but lucky I didn t cause I was layed off a month later.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

50TYSON said:


> Complete build and well-documented!
> 
> I used this thread as reference to deaden the door panels and order rear fill speakers.


Thank you sir.
I don't remember if I had to trim that door adapters...sorry. It's been a while since I did the doors.


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## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

magmun said:


> Nice car. I was very close to buying a 2021 LT1 Camaro, but lucky I didn t cause I was layed off a month later.


Sorry to hear that. Hopefully things get better.


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## magmun (Feb 17, 2021)

SWRocket said:


> Sorry to hear that. Hopefully things get better.


Thanks! It s not all bad though. I m making as much in unemployment as a 50 hour work week. It s actually a nice break. The trick is how to explain it on my resume. Still working that out...


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