# NNBS Build - lots of pics



## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

So I am doing my truck... Ivs had some JBL 804s and RSD 6.0's in there but now its time to step my game up. So here is the layout:

SPEAKERS:
FR89ex - in dash pods (pvc caps) on dash.
SLS 6.5 - in door stock location, midbass duties
SSa Icon 12 - Center console ported enclosure.

AMPS:
PPI BK210.2 - On the founteks 400hz and up
PPI PC400.4 - Birdged on the midbasses
Audiopipe AP1800.1D - @1 ohm on the Icon.

Enclosure:
aprox two cubes @28-29hz 
4 inch aero port

Electric:
1/0 on the big three
XS Power D3400 in stock location.


Today I started pulling out the old and putting in the new. I am waiting on a couple orders to get to me but will be doing what i can in the mean time. 
















I had to get a hole saw at home depot for the cabin entry point but, bught the wrong size. I originally planned to buy a stepped bit but they are freakin expensive now. (like 45 bucks).. So will get the right one tomorow and work on the wiring scheme. Gonna try and make it look pretty.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Got the power and grounds ran to the amps. went to lowes to get some 2 gauge for the sub amp.... they only rate it at 115 amps???? seemed a ltitle low. but will due for music listening. Also got the PVC pods started for the founteks.


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## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

For a little more protection and piece of mind you can run your 1/0g in liquidtight. It's not that much. Also use the gromments to get inside the cab.

AFC Cable Systems 3/4 in. x 25 ft. Non-Metallic Liquidtight Conduit-6003-22-00 at The Home Depot

Halex 3/4 in. Liquid Tight Connector Nylon Multipiece (10-Pack)-76207B at The Home Depot


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

I ran a grommet to get in the cab..guess i missed it in the pics. but thanks for the input.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

JP Fabrication said:


> For a little more protection and piece of mind you can run your 1/0g in liquidtight. It's not that much. Also use the gromments to get inside the cab.
> 
> AFC Cable Systems 3/4 in. x 25 ft. Non-Metallic Liquidtight Conduit-6003-22-00 at The Home Depot
> 
> Halex 3/4 in. Liquid Tight Connector Nylon Multipiece (10-Pack)-76207B at The Home Depot


great idea...


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

So I started on the midbass baffles... used some base measurements I found online and modified for the SLS.

heres the baffle:


fitment:


I also ran the wires for the Founteks and midbasses:









Left some extra wire for positioning on the dash.


Also tightened up my amp wiring. Lots of ziptyes:





Got work all week and hopefully my packages will come..... Have a four day weekend due to memorial day so will get alot done then.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

So today I played with Google Sketch and finalized the spacing and such on my sub enclosure. Check it out:



The sub will be on the bottom, so my image is actually upside down...but... I will be adding wood to raise the box and provide clearance for excursion on an as needed basis during install.



Here is set the depth of the Sub to 7 inches(based on Fi Q) and moved util it cleared. Should be good to go. Initially i wanted to do a rear port with front woofer but 23 inches long wouldn't do it. I pondered about going two Icons sealed and possibly getting a second AP18001d, another batt, and eventually a higher output alternator.... but I think output should be nice with the ported enclosure.. I just hope my SLS's can keep up


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Actual enclosure dimensions:

H: 15
L: 23.5
W: 14.5
VB: 1.951
FB: 29
F3: 26

Should be +1 db near 32hz. as flat as I could get it. 

If any knows what kind of DB's i should be able to get to let me know... I should get about 1500 or so from the AP18001D at 13.5 volts @ 1 ohm. Based on this guys bench of the AP15001d - He found a 13% decrease in output in a nonreactive load @ 1 ohm and 14 volts. 17% difference from published specs puts me at 1500 almost on the dot.


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## 04silverz (May 28, 2008)

Looking good. Def interested in how your box ends up


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

So I got some packages:Got a new battery for the truck and my cobalt, and 50sq ft of fatmat. (before any one says anything) I also ordered 20 tile from SDS. I figure the two should deaden pretty well with the fat mat for the floor mostly.





-the d4700 is for the cobalt. 3400 for the truck. just swapping out the stock lead acid for the AGM.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Today I finished up under the hood. Voltage sitting at 15 volts according to DIC. so think im doin good, lol.

Altenator connection 1/0



Tied it right where the stock 4 gauge ran.



Ground connection 1/0



The madness coming together: 







I didn't get one of the final engine bay but plan to do some painting and wire loom in the near future.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Also got my doors done, at least the fronts:

Making template for SLS



Painted the baffels with truck bed liner I had laying around. serves as some bit of h2o proofing.



Got the door skin pulled off



Made a CCF template to seal the door with



At that same time, I got my order of CLD tiles from Don so I deadened the door. I went minimal in coverage as I am trying to keep the truck as stock as possible(IE no double dynamat doors sealed to umpteenth degree) This same philosophy can be seen in my door sealing technique.







Added some CLD to the plastic panel as well



And this is my sealed door. Please don't laugh, lol. Seriously I covered the CCF(floor padding for laminate floors) with Fat Mat, then velcro'd and taped it to the door. MAde a nice seal and is easily removable for repairs and such. all for like 10 bucks.



the red tape is what I had lying around.

and the final door


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Couple more things knocked out:

Go the floor dampened in the front, Used the CLD tiles with Fat mat as a secondary barrier, then CCF, then fat mat.







Also got my box completed. I plan to get it upholstered to match, as well I don't have my icon yet. So I stick a T1 in it and put it in the truck. 









I builtup the rear to level it out and make a better armrest. it is now wife approved for driving, lol.


Port faces the front around. Gives a nice breeze on the legs for the hot florida weather. 


Shot from the back seat. 



So a couple notes...I cant get my midbasses in stereo with the PPI PC400.4. I plan to replace it the BK340.4. practically the same wattage but will match the other amp... As well, I need to do my back doors as the road noise now originates from them.. My DIY door sealant/dampening worked out well.


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## Wy2quiet (Jun 29, 2010)

How do the FR89's sound in such a small space? They have almost no air hehe. Did you change from 400hz?


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

They actually sound amazing. I ve always wanted to put them on the dash and it is worth it. Really wide stage, great height. I have them mostly on axis(no laser pointers but close) and they are very detailed. Really shine on some RHCP and RATM yet are loud enough to keep up with the sub bangin jeezy and the likes... I couldn't tell you exactly where they are crossed at due to the lack of markings on the PPI amps, but it is around 400-500 possibly a little lower. the dial starts at 50 and goes to 4K so accuracy isnt its strong suite. I set the SLS's first and they drop hard at 500 or so if I remember correctly. So when I noticed that point I knew I was close. I then set the gain on the Founteks, then ran the crossover as low as possible. I think with any small mid range, enclosure volume isn't so much of a big deal as long as they are crossed over high enough. I can say that I get almost no cone movement from the FR89s at the frequency they are at and if your thinking of and on axis install, they are much better than the Klippel analysis would make you think. I can make a video from like twenty feet with the doors open if you would like to hear them at high volumes.


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## Wy2quiet (Jun 29, 2010)

Yes that would be magnificent! I just bought a gallon and a half of laminating epoxy and a pair of FR89's so I am still in the air about how to install them! If I can do a good job with pods and I don't have to permanently fab them for them to sound good that would be ideal. I am hoping to run them to 350hz. Did you run tweets in the pillars before? That is what I am running now and I was totally not happy separating the vocal range. I am absolutely going to go on-axis though.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

I have work and school today (0700-2200=long day) but can make that video for ya tommorow. As far as the founteks of axis and at 350; What slope are you going to run? I ran them LR4 at 250 highpass on my pdx4.150 and they didnt seem to mind. I will say that it is my personal experience that letting a mid or midbass play a litter higher in the register, IE 400-500, makes for better sound...But i have never heard an IASCA car...so could just be lack of exposure. 

Yes I did run my tweeters in the stock location on the A-pillar in my truck. I found that having one tweet out of phase provided the best sound but the reflections stilled caused some serious harshness. So i bought the dash mat, got better but still had to reduce the 4k area of my simple EQ to make them tolerable. If you are going to make pods or do pvc, look into a small tweet to play from 5k and up and run the founteks as a dedicated midrange. I dont know what your processing capabilities are but just some thoughts.


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## Wy2quiet (Jun 29, 2010)

Mooresound said:


> I have work and school today (0700-2200=long day) but can make that video for ya tommorow. As far as the founteks of axis and at 350; What slope are you going to run? I ran them LR4 at 250 highpass on my pdx4.150 and they didnt seem to mind. I will say that it is my personal experience that letting a mid or midbass play a litter higher in the register, IE 400-500, makes for better sound...But i have never heard an IASCA car...so could just be lack of exposure.
> 
> Yes I did run my tweeters in the stock location on the A-pillar in my truck. I found that having one tweet out of phase provided the best sound but the reflections stilled caused some serious harshness. So i bought the dash mat, got better but still had to reduce the 4k area of my simple EQ to make them tolerable. If you are going to make pods or do pvc, look into a small tweet to play from 5k and up and run the founteks as a dedicated midrange. I dont know what your processing capabilities are but just some thoughts.


Yeah I can go four way active, but I don't want to. I want to stick with full, midbass, sub.

As for processing, it is essentially unlimited. Since I am using a CarPC, I can pretty much use anything I can find, including any type of crossover at any slope or any frequency. I can EQ as many bands parametrically as I want per channel so that isn't an issue either, nor is T/A. More than anything though I really like the simplicity of 2 way front end's so I am going to try and stick with that unless of course I end up losing dynamics, although you said it sounds pretty loud anyways.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

some videos





One thing to note, a lot of sound is lost on the exterior as they are on axis in the truck. Also its on my phone.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Got some tidying up done this weekend. Found a upholster to match it to the interior for under $100. 

Put split loom over all the wiring for a more stock look. Still need to get some smaller loom to finish it but much better looking.





Also installed some cup holders I picked up at west marine. kind of match the interior coloring and very functional.



Heat shrunk all my battery connections for safety as well as ran loom over the power wires I installed.


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

Great job!


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## Wy2quiet (Jun 29, 2010)

Thanks for the videos. They definitely sound plenty loud. I am not worried anymore about it.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Cajunner - once I get the enclosure covered it will be bracketed in to the seat mounts. I just havent had the funds to get it professionally covered to match the seats.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

looks pretty good, but I would have rounded the center console/ sub box a bit. would blend into the the rest of the interior more.

only other comment is that it is upfiring. IME, you will hear alot of motor noise with it that close to your ear. firing out the back or downfiring would have been better.


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## Aaron Clinton (Oct 17, 2006)

*I too am running the Fountek's and an Icon.*


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Minbari:
I may do that. I am actually having some noise at high output levels that Aaron Clinton gave some advice on via email and may be either trying out a sealed enclosure (I may need to remove my current enclosure as a variable) that would flow more or I may just put together a new ported enlcosure with a little more streamlined appearance before I get the upholstery done. Also I do plan to round over all the edges if I stay with the current enclosure, just wanted to do the least amount of work before knowing if it would be permanant. 

an aside: Gotta love SSA. All american made and great customer service. Replied back via email in less than an hour.


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## nervewrecker (Oct 5, 2009)

How does the sub enclosure sound there? 

I'm torn between putting mine there or behind the backseat. Both places have enough space for an enclosure.

I may have missed it also, but that Icon sure looks a lot like an Rf power series sub. Is it?


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

nervewrecker: In the posted pics, that is a RF t1. You couaght me  I threw it in there due to the wait for my icon....I got it now, so pics will be coming this weekend ( 4 day due to independance day).

As far as the enclosure......I luv it and Some Observations

1. I had the 8's under the rear seat and it did image well, just not as good. 
2. I think the upward firing sub losses a little SPL feel, but this is anecdotal at best. 
3. I wish I had the time/ money to try a sealed enclosure with a front or down firing woofer as well as a down/front firing ported woofer (maybe a ten). i think it would be a little more pleasing aestetically.
4. The icon doesnt reach up as high as my T1 did, but with the enclosure ported so low it isnt meant to. 
3. Even with over 1000 watts on the sub and its close proximity, it doesnt overpower my SLS 6.5's. (They are getting 160 a piece (@ 14.4) and crossed over where they could handle rap music) I believe this could be because of the low tuning and its effect on output in the higher bass frequencies.
4. The icon blends well due to it being quieter in the upper bass region. My SLS's handle down low well and the icon bangs when it needs to.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Built another enclosure today... Took what I like about the first and changed what I didn't. 

Leveled out the bottom panel and got some basic measurements.



And started getting after it. 















A little test fitting, made the top panel and glued it into place while in the car for best fit.



Went to West Marine and bought some cup holders:


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Added some bracing and the rear panel.



And ended with this:







 

Im debating whether to use some black stain on the top, a lil poly, and paint the sides grey... Let me know what ya think.


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## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

Final fitment


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## designerfh (Nov 4, 2007)

In my 05 Silverado, I was never happy with my console sub, unless it was downfiring, and that just makes the height issue more pronounced. My advice - skip front or back firing, and figure out what it's going to take to fire the sub down.

I don't know what it is about downfiring in a truck, but it's the only way I'll do it. Few others on the board seem to feel the same way. 

Do a quick test box and report back what you think. If you aren't happy, I'll be very surprised.


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## YukonXL (Mar 7, 2014)

Not too shabby. Looks much better than the first one lol. I would pad and upholster the top, and whatever else on the sides. Your going to want some cushion. So is it okay to not have a " box " separating the cup holders from the enclosure? Curious because when I build mine if it's not a problem then I could gain some extra airspace by not sealing the cup holder/ storage area from the box


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