# 2007 Audi S4 Avant



## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Ok, so I will be posting photos of the install that Edric Taira is doing on my S4. For those of you who don't know, a brief view of Edric's work can be seen here:

Zapco: Your Automotive Audio Experts, Specializing in Amplifiers, Processors, and Speakers from Competition to Street Class.

Chad Kobayashi’s 06 Mercedes-Benz CLS500 WALD - October 12, 2007 | MWRides | Midweek.com


Let me just say now, that I really appreciate that someone of Ed's talent has agreed to do the install on my ride. Thanks Ed.









Profi Mids in their housing - front view. These are going in the front door, and will be mated to Zapco RB tweeters. 









Profi Mids in their housing - rear view 1.









Profi Mids in their housing - rear view 2.









Polk SR6500 mid in their housing.









Polk SR6500 mid and crossover in the rear door.


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## Et Cetera (Jul 28, 2006)

Have you compared the SR6500 and the Profi? Any thoughts on the same?


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## Mooble (Oct 21, 2007)

I don't know how to put a positive spin on this, but for a "famed" installer, his work leaves much to be desired. Most people would want more than a plastic spacer for a mounting point on their mid-woofers. At least there is a rubber seal on the back of it, but still, most people would want a more direct contact to the sheet metal.

Unless you live on the dry side of the island, most people wouldn't recommend putting the crossovers in the doors either. 

He seems to be a bling installer judging by that chrome? package shelf *gag* in the Merc, but there are things I would change already as far as sound quality goes. 

Seriously, is that a chrome package shelf???  Glare much?


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## cd300 (Mar 25, 2009)

I miss my s4 Avant...... Too many issues toward the end however..... course mine was the 2.7l twin turbo


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Et Cetera, I like the Polks, they were going to be my front stage... until I heard the Zapco RBs (the RB tweeter is sweet, I compare it to my Martin Logans for quickness and dynamics). Then the Profi set came along, and Ed highly recomended the mid, it sounded sweet, so there you go. I do like the Polk SR, but you know the ring radiator tweeter is very directional, and in home audio that is great, but in a car, lets just say I wanted something with a better dispersion.

Relax Mooble, I wanted to keep changes to the car at a minimum. It was my idea to use the stock speaker housing as I saw it on another install. And as far as the crossover, it's fine in the door. I can see you disagree, but I'm not a fan of mounting them (I'm going to assume) in the trunk and going through all the extra crap. But to each his own. And trust me, "bling installer"... please, if you haven't heard his cars then, well, hard to make someone like you a believer I guess. And Mooble, why would you want "a more direct contact to the sheet metal."? Direct contact to sheet metal sounds like crazy resonance issues.


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

Where does Ed work from now? I haven't heard of his name for a long time. I never realized you had an Audi. Do you go out to the weekly meets? I still go when I get the chance even though I no longer have the Audi.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Ed works off of Kam Highway, past the twin towers, down the industrial road back there.

No, I don't go to the meets, although I may after this is done.

I'd like to see your M3!!


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Ed works off of Kam Highway, past the twin towers, down the industrial road back there.
> 
> No, I don't go to the meets, although I may after this is done.
> 
> I'd like to see your M3!!


What's the name of the place?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Relax Mooble, I wanted to keep changes to the car at a minimum. It was my idea to use the stock speaker housing as I saw it on another install. And as far as the crossover, it's fine in the door. I can see you disagree, but I'm not a fan of mounting them (I'm going to assume) in the trunk and going through all the extra crap. But to each his own. And trust me, "bling installer"... please, if you haven't heard his cars then, well, hard to make someone like you a believer I guess. And Mooble, why would you want "a more direct contact to the sheet metal."? Direct contact to sheet metal sounds like crazy resonance issues.


Congrats on some nice equipment and I hope you enjoy your install. That being said, I agree with most of what Mooble said. As far as the crossover goes, unless that thing is completely sealed off from moisture (which its not), its a very bad idea to put it inside the doors. Drainage and moisture issues in doors are well known. Water WILL get inside those crossovers.

As far as the baffle, again I agree with Mooble. Thats not a solid baffle for an upgraded driver like you are using. Forgoing the stock plastic speaker baffle and using a Birch or HDP baffle mounted to the door metal would be a FAR better idea. Think about it- a high powered driver mounted to plastic, or mounted to a SOLID baffle, mounted ot the door metal. Thats seriously an easy thing to do that allows the driver to perform better and is better for the integrioty of the installation. It also can be done completely behind the door panel and look completely stock. You will be sacrificing performance on your high quality drivers by using that stock plastic speaker "baffle".
Also, Im not completely sure as Id have to look at the specs on those, but the Profi's may be choked in that very small plastic enclosure. The ymay be better off using the door airspace, which again would be another reason to do the proper door metal mounted solid baffle.

I dont think Mooble meant any offense with his comments and neither do I. More so that you have the opportunity to maximize the potential of the gear your having installed with minimal work, and keep it looking stock. Its definitely worth the little time needed to do it the right way.

Sick car by the way, I really love the S4's.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Pics of said car? I absolutely love wagons because of audi.


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## kwhitelaw (Sep 4, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Congrats on some nice equipment and I hope you enjoy your install. That being said, I agree with most of what Mooble said. As far as the crossover goes, unless that thing is completely sealed off from moisture (which its not), its a very bad idea to put it inside the doors. Drainage and moisture issues in doors are well known. Water WILL get inside those crossovers.
> 
> As far as the baffle, again I agree with Mooble. Thats not a solid baffle for an upgraded driver like you are using. Forgoing the stock plastic speaker baffle and using a Birch or HDP baffle mounted to the door metal would be a FAR better idea. Think about it- a high powered driver mounted to plastic, or mounted to a SOLID baffle, mounted ot the door metal. Thats seriously an easy thing to do that allows the driver to perform better and is better for the integrioty of the installation. It also can be done completely behind the door panel and look completely stock. You will be sacrificing performance on your high quality drivers by using that stock plastic speaker "baffle".
> Also, Im not completely sure as Id have to look at the specs on those, but the Profi's may be choked in that very small plastic enclosure. The ymay be better off using the door airspace, which again would be another reason to do the proper door metal mounted solid baffle.
> ...



I cant tell if you are speaking on his particular car having drainage/moisture issues, but, that crossover wont get wet where its at. I can see the back of the spkr getting wet, and a mdf baffle swelling if one was used. but if that factory "padding" that the xover is mounted to is still in one piece and not torn, I dont see water hitting it.

I do agree on the baffle though, would rather see something solid, be it mdf or thick abs.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks for the input guys, although I still don't agree on the baffle. I don't know if you can see it, but there is actually a rubber gasket - better isolation? Who knows, but we are sticking with it. More install pics to follow, for now just pictures of the ride for Tonyguy...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

kwhitelaw said:


> I cant tell if you are speaking on his particular car having drainage/moisture issues, but, that crossover wont get wet where its at. I can see the back of the spkr getting wet, and a mdf baffle swelling if one was used. but if that factory "padding" that the xover is mounted to is still in one piece and not torn, I dont see water hitting it.
> 
> I do agree on the baffle though, would rather see something solid, be it mdf or thick abs.


Its not so much "direct contact" with moisture that is the concern when mounting one in the door. The inside of the door can be moist and humid when it rains. That moisture eventually corrodes and rusts contacts. 

Also- Love the look of the wagon bro. The wheels look great.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks for the compliment captain. The wheels are 19" RS4 reps from these guys: 

VMR Wheels by Velocity Motoring - Aluminum Alloy Wheels for German Cars

Highly recommend their stuff. The weight of this RS4 rep is actually lighter than the stock 18" S4 wheel. Build quality is great. Running Falken rubber.


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## shadowfactory (Oct 20, 2008)

I'm going to have to also agree with mooble on the baffle issue. 

The main purpose of the baffle is to isolate the frontwave from the backwave and prevent cancellation between the two. Do you really think a thin piece of stock plastic with a 1/4" strip of rubber on it is going to effectively block an 80hz sine wave compared to a thick piece of mdf? I don't. Solidly coupling the baffle to the door skin (which is ALSO the speaker baffle) is very important to blocking backwaves. If you are worried about isolating the baffle from the inner door skin to prevent rattles and minor resonance, a painted or water sealed mdf baffle with a thick layer of non-hardening modeling clay between it and the door skin would be a MUCH better isolator AND a much better baffle. The way it is now is just asking for reduced midbass performance due to cancellation, the stock baffle was not made to handle a huge high output aftermarket replacement speaker. Also, I can't tell from the pics, but the baffle looks to be taller than the midbass itself, make sure he chamfers or routes the inner edge of the baffle to allow adequate airspace between the back of the cone and the baffle itself, as restricting that area is another great way to reduce midbass performance.


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## m3gunner (Aug 6, 2008)

Really nice look with the rims. How much were they? (the website doesn't say ****e about pricing...)


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Appreciate the input guys, I just don't think changing your door (the ****tiest speaker box in the world) with all that "stuff" is worth it. My opinion, and I know it's different from yours. That's cool.

M3gunner, the wheels are cheap! That's the best part. Talking a set of four for less than a $1K! Call them. Super good customer service.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Ohh God I just made a happy mess in my pants. I love your wagon. Done right. Thank you.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

A Bass Control Knob for the DC750.2 was just installed. A must have item, but when you're running Zapco DC amps, it's not easy to do. Well, here it is.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

DRC is in place in the glove. iPod cable in also. Amps and HU pics later.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Wow, great install so far. This is shaping up really nice.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words, Tonyguy. Tonight I'll try to get pics of the HU and amp rack.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

looks good, love the clean work.

i myself dont mind the baffle as much. though i strictly do MDF baffles, but i have seen cars do with reinforced stock baffles. i guess only your own ears will be able to tell.

but i dont ever put crossovers in the door. but it snot due to moister concerns. as you correctly stated, moisture rarely gets into that side of the door. i do it becusae simply put, wires is much more reliable and needs much fewer tweaking than crossovers. so any trouble shooting, or adjustment on the xover, IMO its better to have it in the trunk, easily accessible along wtih the amps and other prices of gear, than to have it in the door and have to remove the door card everytime. 

but overall, i can see the installer is of a high caliber by the way he does things. and i love the car 

b


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Simplicityinsound, you have a great point with putting the passive in the trunk. Easy access for tweaking, that totally makes sense. 

We (Ed and I) are going to have some listening time with before we close it all up, so hopefully we have the tweeter attenuation dialed in before we pack it all in. Otherwise we are going to have to do the work via the EQ on the DC (or the H701, but I doubt it).

Thanks for the kind words.

PS- wait till you guys see the HU install... it's sweet!


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Some update photos. Bummer is I'm having problems with some of the Zapco amps I bought from some of the members here. Lame.









Battery









Fiberglass sub box for stealth, with MDF Baffle.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Final HU pictures. Check out the adapter plate, very clean ONE piece look, and the chrome lip at the bottom!



















Pick up is tonight!!!!!! So stoked.

Oh, and just FYI... I know this will be against popular opinion here, but I'm pulling the DIYMA12 for an Alumapro 12. I will say this, the DIYMA12 is plenty loud for me, just I want tighter and quicker.


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## CrewCab (Jul 14, 2009)

nice!! Love the avant


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Quality work.
I like that H/U install the chrome strip gives it a OEM feel. How well does the the texture/colour of the trim around the h/u match the trim of the car? I know that is very hard to get matching, but that looks pretty close in the photos.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks guys, the texture and color was tough to match, but I think achieved a very close match. I think it looks very close to OEM, esp with the chrome lip.

What I am shocked about, is that I didn't like the DIYMA12. I was so sure it was exactly what I was looking for, but alas it's not. Just me talking there. It is still a very nice speaker. Just kill me for saying it, but high xmax and SQ are tough to put together. 

In the end, I think Zaph is right, and there is no getting around xmax... 

Zaph|Audio

Now off to take my car home for good! I'll post more stuff later!


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## 330CK (Mar 4, 2008)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Thanks for the compliment captain. The wheels are 19" RS4 reps from these guys:
> 
> VMR Wheels by Velocity Motoring - Aluminum Alloy Wheels for German Cars
> 
> Highly recommend their stuff. The weight of this RS4 rep is actually lighter than the stock 18" S4 wheel. Build quality is great. Running Falken rubber.





donkeypunch22 said:


> Appreciate the input guys, I just don't think changing your door (the ****tiest speaker box in the world) with all that "stuff" is worth it. My opinion, and I know it's different from yours. That's cool.
> 
> M3gunner, the wheels are cheap! That's the best part. Talking a set of four for less than a $1K! Call them. Super good customer service.


+1

VMR wheels are a great value.


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## eskateboarding7 (Mar 18, 2009)

Wow that custom bezel looks clean! I'm liking the build so far.


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## aenokea (Sep 18, 2008)

Hi Donkeypunch. I dont know if you remember me but I was there the night Ed decided to do your installation. You may have sat in my car (white Honda Fit) to hear the speakers. Ed mentioned that your car was almost finished and that I should come take a listen but that didnt happen. Your car looks awesome and Im sure it sounds good too. Maybe one day we can meet so I can demo it. Im thinking of changing to some Zapco amps...


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Bro, no doubt. We are still in the break-in/tuning phase. Also changing the sub to an Alumapro.

I may have a zapco dc650.6 to sell. Had two and only needed one. May have to check it with Ed, though. I need to make sure it's 100% ok before I will sell it to anyone.


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Bro, no doubt. We are still in the break-in/tuning phase. Also changing the sub to an Alumapro.
> 
> I may have a zapco dc650.6 to sell. Had two and only needed one. May have to check it with Ed, though. I need to make sure it's 100% ok before I will sell it to anyone.


I would love to check out your car too. I might be interested in that DC 650.6 too.


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## aenokea (Sep 18, 2008)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Bro, no doubt. We are still in the break-in/tuning phase. Also changing the sub to an Alumapro.
> 
> I may have a zapco dc650.6 to sell. Had two and only needed one. May have to check it with Ed, though. I need to make sure it's 100% ok before I will sell it to anyone.


Next time you're at the shop for tuning, have Ed call me so I can check it out. And if the amp is ok, I'll pick it up from you. I just gotta figure out where Im going to put an amp that big in my little car.


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

aenokea said:


> Next time you're at the shop for tuning, have Ed call me so I can check it out. And if the amp is ok, I'll pick it up from you. I just gotta figure out where Im going to put an amp that big in my little car.


Looks like you already have a buyer for that DC dp22 but I'd still like to check out your car because I'm still going back on forth between DC amps and Audison amps.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

What about the DIYMA R12 wasn't working for you? Not enough low end? Too transparent?

Which Alumapro model did you go with and what can you say about it as compared to the DIYMA ?

Glad to see youve got the ride back and have a nice working system now.


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## aenokea (Sep 18, 2008)

HIS4 said:


> Looks like you already have a buyer for that DC dp22 but I'd still like to check out your car because I'm still going back on forth between DC amps and Audison amps.


HIS4, The Zapco amps are really good and if you have the space then you should go for it. I gave it some thought and I dont have the space for that amp. Only place is in the spare tire well and I really dont want to do that. So if dp22 is selling, you can have dibbs.


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

I miss my 04 S4 Wagon... Very sweet car. Enjoy the stereo. Looks like it is going great!


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

why are you using the passives is you are running 6-ch amps?


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

aenokea said:


> HIS4, The Zapco amps are really good and if you have the space then you should go for it. I gave it some thought and I dont have the space for that amp. Only place is in the spare tire well and I really dont want to do that. So if dp22 is selling, you can have dibbs.


I just don't know if 50W/ch will be enough for a front stage and 500W for 2-8" subs. The Audison in question is a LRx 5.1k which is about triple the power for the mids and subs.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

HIS4 said:


> I would love to check out your car too. I might be interested in that DC 650.6 too.


We can meet up. You can send me pm.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

aenokea said:


> Next time you're at the shop for tuning, have Ed call me so I can check it out. And if the amp is ok, I'll pick it up from you. I just gotta figure out where Im going to put an amp that big in my little car.


I will have Ed call you prior to me going down there. As soon as the Alumapro gets in, he is calling me and we are going to set a date. It will be a weekend.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> What about the DIYMA R12 wasn't working for you? Not enough low end? Too transparent?
> 
> Which Alumapro model did you go with and what can you say about it as compared to the DIYMA ?
> 
> Glad to see youve got the ride back and have a nice working system now.


The DIYMA12 is a good sub, but I like my subs to be a bit quicker and tighter. There is plenty of low end, and I can see how people like the driver and say it's "transparent" and blends well, cause it does. But for me, the quickness and tightness is not there.

I often run into this lack of quick transient attack and lack of tightness problem with subs that have a big xmax (did you read the link I put up from Zaph?). I thought that this sub would be the one sub that had the xmax and the quickness/tightness I like. But alas, I don't think you can have it all, and to me thats: low end extension, output, tightness, quick transients, and small box. 

I am going with the Alumapro 12" RX.

When it goes in, I will give you more. 

Keep in mind, the battle is not yet done. I still have to place the Alumapro in the car and give it a ride. I have heard it in other cars, but not this car and not this box!

Box is sealed by the way. 1.25 cubic with stuffing. Fiberglass back with MDF baffle. In the back left corner wall. Stealth.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

BeatsDownLow said:


> why are you using the passives is you are running 6-ch amps?


Passives crossovers are in the rear only, the front is active. 

The six channel is 50x2 to the front tweeters (zapco rb), 150x2 to the mids (rainbow profi 6.5), and 50 to the rears-passive (polk sr6500). The rears are for 5.1 only. I have the rears off when listening to PCM2 channel stuff.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

HIS4 said:


> I just don't know if 50W/ch will be enough for a front stage and 500W for 2-8" subs. The Audison in question is a LRx 5.1k which is about triple the power for the mids and subs.


How are you setting things up? If you use the DC 650 like I am, you need a sub amp. 

Ed, who is a Zapco guru, says the DC650 is like a dc360.4 and a dc500.1 together. He says the 5th and 6th channels that are 100x2 are more like 150x2 and [email protected]

I don't know what you're plans are, but the DC with the processing is hard to pass up. 1st to 4th order slopes, LW or Butterworth alignments, 10 true parametric eqs where you can type in any frequ you want (Alpine F1 can't even do this), use peak/high shelf/low shelf on the paramtrics (again Alpine F1 can't do this), of course dial the q on the eq filters, one q bass parametric eq, and the interface is easy.

Can you fit two amps, then do what I did, one DC650.6 and one DC750.2. They are exactly the same physical size. The 750.2 is 780x1 watts @ 4ohms. It has to be 4ohms in mono, Ed says. Or if you are using 2 8" you could go stereo at 360x2 @ 2ohms. Ed says this amp likes to run each channel at 2ohms.


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## HIS4 (Oct 6, 2005)

donkeypunch22 said:


> How are you setting things up? If you use the DC 650 like I am, you need a sub amp.
> 
> Ed, who is a Zapco guru, says the DC650 is like a dc360.4 and a dc500.1 together. He says the 5th and 6th channels that are 100x2 are more like 150x2 and [email protected]
> 
> ...


My plan is for no subs in the trunk. It will be a 1 amp system running 4" mids and tweeters in the doors and then an 8" woofer under each front seat. These are all the stock speaker locations. So it would be 50W/ch to each of the mids and tweeters and then the 500W for the 2-8" woofers in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I have a set of a/d/s 344is mids and px tweeters for the front doors and the 8" woofers are Earthquake SWS-8. The Earthquake wasn't my first choice but it really is the only choice if I want to fit it back in the factory location. I've looked into it so much and talked to a lot of people but it seems like trying to squeeze anything bigger in that spot is just not worth the effort because you'll just be limiting the performance of any driver you put in that space. At least the SWS was made for that space (the OEM speakers are basically SWS woofers with paper cones and lower power handling).

Let me look when I'm free and I'll pm you so we can meet up.


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## LondonRS4 (Jul 16, 2009)

There is quite a bit of space in the back behind the quarter panel covers. You have a sub on one side, but how about the other for an amp. I measure 16 inches in my RS4 sedan. There must be more in the Avant. Love the HU bezel. The trim piece at the bottom is a nice touch.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

HIS4 said:


> My plan is for no subs in the trunk. It will be a 1 amp system running 4" mids and tweeters in the doors and then an 8" woofer under each front seat. These are all the stock speaker locations. So it would be 50W/ch to each of the mids and tweeters and then the 500W for the 2-8" woofers in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I have a set of a/d/s 344is mids and px tweeters for the front doors and the 8" woofers are Earthquake SWS-8. The Earthquake wasn't my first choice but it really is the only choice if I want to fit it back in the factory location. I've looked into it so much and talked to a lot of people but it seems like trying to squeeze anything bigger in that spot is just not worth the effort because you'll just be limiting the performance of any driver you put in that space. At least the SWS was made for that space (the OEM speakers are basically SWS woofers with paper cones and lower power handling).
> 
> Let me look when I'm free and I'll pm you so we can meet up.


Wow, ok, sounds like you have little wiggle room. Well, if you want to grab the DC650 let me know. 

I see your pm.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

LondonRS4 said:


> There is quite a bit of space in the back behind the quarter panel covers. You have a sub on one side, but how about the other for an amp. I measure 16 inches in my RS4 sedan. There must be more in the Avant. Love the HU bezel. The trim piece at the bottom is a nice touch.


There is quite a bit of space behind both quater panels. The right rear quater panel, in the Avant, houses the stock sub enclosure. The space, after removing the stock sub enclosure, is quite deep. I have seen a JL500/5 fit in there perfect. 

I haven't done anything with this right rear space. My amps and h701 went in the spare tire well. I figured, weight going in has to try to be close to the weight going out, so spare tire and wheel went adios. Plus, the spare was a 18" stock wheel, and I have the 19" RS4 reps in place. Love the RS4, bro.


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## LondonRS4 (Jul 16, 2009)

Best thing about the RS4 is (1) no spare tire and (2) battery with MIDI fuse compatible distribution bus in trunk under the floor mat. Made it trivial to wire in my amps and DSP. I put in a JL 10W3v3 in a 0.65 cu ft. Wicked CAS enclosure in the left quarter panel space and 2 PDX 4.100s and a H650 in the other quarter panel space. Both sit behind fibreglass grill covers for sound/ventilation. I would have bought an RS4 Avant in a flash if they had brought them over from Europe. Best wagons ever.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Gotta love the wagons. The RS4 wagon was the sickest of them all. Now, for me, here in Hawaii I need to take my surf board to da beach, and I like to drive fast with a SQ stereo, so this is my dream ride!

You have pics of the RS4 system? How do you like the H650? You gonna pick up the MS8 when it comes out?


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## LondonRS4 (Jul 16, 2009)

I will post pics as I get done. The H650 has limitations, but seems pretty good for a first attempt at all this. It's pretty cheap as something to cut your teeth with. I'd look at the MS8, but it's been years with nothing so far.

I lived in Honolulu for 5 years, 66-72. Went to Aina Haina Elementary and Punahou. Was just back on Oahu and the Big Island (Hilo) in April. Still love it. Maybe we'll retire to a ranch in Waimea some day !


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

LondonRS4 said:


> I will post pics as I get done. The H650 has limitations, but seems pretty good for a first attempt at all this. It's pretty cheap as something to cut your teeth with. I'd look at the MS8, but it's been years with nothing so far.
> 
> I lived in Honolulu for 5 years, 66-72. Went to Aina Haina Elementary and Punahou. Was just back on Oahu and the Big Island (Hilo) in April. Still love it. Maybe we'll retire to a ranch in Waimea some day !


A fellow Son of Oahu!!! See my profile pic? Did you know we won the State football title last year? First time in history. The Islands call my friend... return home.


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## LondonRS4 (Jul 16, 2009)

Wife and I may one day retire somewhere near the Parker ranch. We'll see. I need cheaper hobbies if that's going to happen !

Here's the build log on my RS4. I sooo wish they had brought the RS4 wagon to North America. Your S4 looks awesome.

RS4 Stereo gut job and DNX7140 Install - Audizine Forums


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Final HU pictures. Check out the adapter plate, very clean ONE piece look, and the chrome lip at the bottom!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

hmm, I didn't know that would work. Anyhow, I like the look now.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Well, I have done many hours of tunning, and have found a setting that I have been happy with for quite some time. It amazes me how powerful the DC processor is. Just as amazing is the $100 RTA I picked up following instructions from this site.

I will try to post some TrueRTA graphs to give you guys an idea of the "sound". 

I will say the sound stage and detail in this system is great. I am so pleased. I can play ranges of genres from Audiophile Jazz to Rap, and they all sound terrific.

Thanks to Ed, Andy W, the OP of the $100 RTA, and all of you on this site I learned so much from.


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