# DVC 4 ohm sub into 2 channel amp, need 4 ohm load.



## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Forgive me for not yet having grasped the concepts of series, parallel, series-parallel, parallel-series, etc... I need pictures at this point. 

Was considering buying a Kicker CVR aluminized 12" DVC 4 ohm sub and nice box for $60. But it's a dual 4 ohm and all the wiring diagrams I can find say that it's either 2 ohm or 8 ohm, depending on how you wire it to a bridged mono config. None show use of both amp channels, probably for reasons I mention in the pic. Anyway, here's the pic, I need help. Thanks in advance.


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## Sleeves (Oct 22, 2010)

I call that configuration "death of an amp & sub".

Use the first configuration pictured here (upper left): JL Audio - Car Audio Systems

Same wires you have marked on the amp in your picture, sub wiring from the JL tutorial. This will be 8 ohm mono configuration and is the safest you will be able to run the combo you have.

The one you pictured would have the voice coils working opposite of each other and if you used the "jumper" you would also be dead-shorting the outputs of your amp. Double bad.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Sleeves said:


> I call that configuration "death of an amp & sub".
> 
> Use the first configuration pictured here (upper left): JL Audio - Car Audio Systems
> 
> ...


Why does that equal death of subs and amp? What would the impedance be? Is the yellow jumper needed?

And the page you referred to only shows 8 ohm and 2 ohm configurations. I'm looking for 4 ohm.


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## Sleeves (Oct 22, 2010)

You do not seem to be comprehending. 4 ohm is not possible utilizing both 4 ohm voice coils. The scenario I gave you is the best possible for what you said you are using. Period.

Technically, your config is 0 ohms (dead short) with the jumper (which is extremely bad to deadly for your amp depending on how much protection it has built in or how many times your replace the fuse without fixing the problem). Without the jumper, it is 2 ohms but the voice coils will be working 180 degrees out of phase from each other so the only movement that might be produced would be from the windings not being 100% perfectly matched. Throw away what you posted, use the JL 8 ohm config, profit from a long-living amp.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Sleeves said:


> You do not seem to be comprehending. 4 ohm is not possible utilizing both 4 ohm voice coils. The scenario I gave you is the best possible for what you said you are using. Period.
> 
> Technically, your config is 0 ohms (dead short) with the jumper (which is extremely bad to deadly for your amp depending on how much protection it has built in or how many times your replace the fuse without fixing the problem). Without the jumper, it is 2 ohms but the voice coils will be working 180 degrees out of phase from each other so the only movement that might be produced would be from the windings not being 100% perfectly matched. Throw away what you posted, use the JL 8 ohm config, profit from a long-living amp.


1. I'm not interested in doubling resistance and halving power, so 8 ohm is not an option. 

2. 4 ohm is indeed possible, if you wire each of the two amp channels to a separate voice coil. It just isn't recommended by some of the info I have seen.

I guess I'll pass on this deal though and hold out for a dual 2 ohm sub if I decide a single sub is enough. I really don't even need the sub, but I don't want to pay $60 for a box. Thank you for the input.


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## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

You can hook one channel of the amp, to one voice coil, and the other channel to the other voice coil, or connect the voice coils in series (8 ohm load), and hook it to the amp in bridge mode.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Mike_Dee said:


> You can hook one channel of the amp, to one voice coil, and the other channel to the other voice coil


Do you, or anyone else for that matter, have any definitive info on whether or not this will damage the amp or subs, or sound bad? I've heard many conflicting opinions on this, so it further confuses an already confusing concept.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

cajunner said:


> you're confusing the stereo mode with bridged mode.
> 
> 4 ohms stereo mode, is the same as 8 ohms bridged mode.
> 
> ...


Ok for the sake of simplicity, we'll say that my amp is 500W bridged and 250W X 2, both at 4 ohms. 

I'm not confused about the stereo vs. bridged. But what you're saying, 4 ohms stereo is the same as 8 ohms bridged mono, I don't believe is correct. Running stereo, one channel per coil, I'd be getting 4 ohms on each channel and 250W each, so 500W total to the one DVC sub.

But since my amp pushes 500W bridged @ 4 ohm, if I bridged the DVC sub, which would be 8 ohms, I'd only be pushing 250W since we're no longer putting a 4 ohm load on the amp. The resistance has doubled to 8 ohm, and therefore power would be more like 250W TOTAL to the DVC sub. Right?


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## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

jalba said:


> Do you, or anyone else for that matter, have any definitive info on whether or not this will damage the amp or subs, or sound bad? I've heard many conflicting opinions on this, so it further confuses an already confusing concept.


It will NOT damage either. Give it a shot and see for yourself how it sounds. I had an old JL Audio W3 with dual 4 Ohm VC's hooked up in this manner on an old unbridgeable Linear Power 2002, and it sounded kick ass to my ears.

Your only real option other than that is to series the coils and bridge the amp.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

You have to get a different sub to do 4 ohm, or use only one VC on that one and that is half the power handling. Odds are 8 ohms bridged will not lose you that much dB anyway you should try it that way first. Most amps don't lose half the power going to 8 like they gain double going 4 to 2, and a lot of them don't double anyway. The sub sets the ohm load the amp will protect or blow up if load is too low.

A 2ch amp- 2ch into 4 ohms or bridged into 8 ohms is the same thing....as is 2ch into 2 ohms or bridged into 4 ohm. When bridged each channel gets half the load. There is nothing wrong with running 2ch of bass into a DVC sub it has been done a lot the cone will mono it out and there is rarely a difference in bass tracks of stereo. I would run it bridged if I could, just to simplify.


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## Sleeves (Oct 22, 2010)

Jalba, you are indeed confused and I've given you the best advice possible.

If your amp does 500 watts bridged at 4 ohms, then it does 125 watts per channel at 4 ohms on each. You are confusing your numbers. 4 ohm stereo power (total)= 8 ohm bridged power. Please listen to people who know what they are talking about.

Also, I completely agree with 500 watts RMS being more power than is healthy for a CVR 12. The 250 watts you would get at 8 ohm bridged on the amp is a decent match.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Sleeves said:


> Jalba, you are indeed confused and I've given you the best advice possible.
> 
> If your amp does 500 watts bridged at 4 ohms, then it does 125 watts per channel at 4 ohms on each. You are confusing your numbers. 4 ohm stereo power (total)= 8 ohm bridged power. Please listen to people who know what they are talking about.
> 
> Also, I completely agree with 500 watts RMS being more power than is healthy for a CVR 12. The 250 watts you would get at 8 ohm bridged on the amp is a decent match.


To you, and the other guy, who think I'm so confused. My amp does 560W RMS X1 bridged mono, 220W RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms, and 280W RMS X 2 @2 Ohms. Power Acoustik LT980/2 (lt9802) 2-Channel Amplifier

Those of you who say it only does 125 X 2 don't know what you're talking about. And yet you speak with such authority and boldness (saying I'm clueless and confused), that you guys are the types of people who make it hard for people to actually learn from forums like this. People like me have to sort through all the pissing contests and wrong information stated as fact before we can make an informed decision. So my advice would be, if you don't know for sure, don't state something as fact and tell someone else, who is right, that they're wrong. You give the forum a bad reputation.

And amps like mine bridge to 4 ohms, not 8. I can't believe you run a 12V company and don't know some of the most simple things about car audio.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

sqshoestring said:


> You have to get a different sub to do 4 ohm, or use only one VC on that one and that is half the power handling. Odds are 8 ohms bridged will not lose you that much dB anyway you should try it that way first. Most amps don't lose half the power going to 8 like they gain double going 4 to 2, and a lot of them don't double anyway. The sub sets the ohm load the amp will protect or blow up if load is too low.
> 
> A 2ch amp- 2ch into 4 ohms or bridged into 8 ohms is the same thing....as is 2ch into 2 ohms or bridged into 4 ohm. When bridged each channel gets half the load. There is nothing wrong with running 2ch of bass into a DVC sub it has been done a lot the cone will mono it out and there is rarely a difference in bass tracks of stereo. I would run it bridged if I could, just to simplify.


Thanks for the input. I'll probably ltry it wired stereo. I have two mono output rcas from the HU, so in theory both channels will receive the same signal. I'll let you guys know if I have any problems with it wired like this.


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## Sleeves (Oct 22, 2010)

jalba said:


> To you, and the other guy, who think I'm so confused. My amp does 560W RMS X1 bridged mono, 220W RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms, and 280W RMS X 2 @2 Ohms. Power Acoustik LT980/2 (lt9802) 2-Channel Amplifier
> 
> Those of you who say it only does 125 X 2 don't know what you're talking about. And yet you speak with such authority and boldness (saying I'm clueless and confused), that you guys are the types of people who make it hard for people to actually learn from forums like this. People like me have to sort through all the pissing contests and wrong information stated as fact before we can make an informed decision. So my advice would be, if you don't know for sure, don't state something as fact and tell someone else, who is right, that they're wrong. You give the forum a bad reputation.
> 
> And amps like mine bridge to 4 ohms, not 8. I can't believe you run a 12V company and don't know some of the most simple things about car audio.


Jalba, did you seriously just try to correct me for using numbers that YOU had given us? This is the first post in this thread where you have given us the actually amp you were using. I speak with boldness because I have done this for 14 years as a full-time job. If you are genuine, I will remind you once again that I have already given you the best possible configuration for the stated set-up at least twice now. I'm not here to debate the numbers that you have now provided _after-the-fact_, acting like we knew them all along. Even knowing the exact amp you intend to use I still stand by this being the best possible configuration, and retort with you're the bold one for still insisting the laws of physics be rewritten to suit your desires.

I am now convinced that you are not a genuine person but rather a troll attempting to get a rise out of people so I bid you good day sir. You may troll someone else now.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

cajunner said:


> your amp is a low-cost alternative to the average name brand amplifier that actually comes rated by doubling power into half the impedance when dropping from 4 to 2 ohms.
> 
> your amp can't do that, and although it may bridge into 4 ohms, it doesn't double power and is probably not very stable at that impedance.
> 
> ...


Not many amps 10-12 years ago were 2 or 1 ohm stable. I'm correct that my amp bridges into 4 ohm and is 2 ohm stable in stereo. Check the link I provided above and stop laughing, you're making yourself look like a fool.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Sleeves said:


> Jalba, did you seriously just try to correct me for using numbers that YOU had given us? This is the first post in this thread where you have given us the actually amp you were using. I speak with boldness because I have done this for 14 years as a full-time job. If you are genuine, I will remind you once again that I have already given you the best possible configuration for the stated set-up at least twice now. I'm not here to debate the numbers that you have now provided _after-the-fact_, acting like we knew them all along. Even knowing the exact amp you intend to use I still stand by this being the best possible configuration, and retort with you're the bold one for still insisting the laws of physics be rewritten to suit your desires.
> 
> I am now convinced that you are not a genuine person but rather a troll attempting to get a rise out of people so I bid you good day sir. You may troll someone else now.


I was correcting your assertion that if my amp does X watts RMS bridged, it only does (1/4)X per channel RMS on each of its 2 channels. The numbers aren't important as they were an example. You said if my 2 channel amp does 500W RMS that it only puts out 125W per channel. Yes, I'm genuinely correcting you, no troll here.


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## dragonrage (Feb 14, 2007)

You need to run at 8 ohms, get a different amp or get a different sub. The others are right.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Actually I'm surprised that nobody has posted the solution that I have determined would be the best way to wire this...Wire the 4 Ohm DVC sub, which is currently (I just bought it this morning) wired for 2 ohms, to a single channel of the amp for 280W RMS @ 2 ohms. I appreciate advice when it's good, but I try to correct people when they offer incorrect advice, especially people that have run 12V related companies for 14 years.


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

If the amp if 4-ohm mono then just use one voice coil (you will loose about 60% of power rating on sub). 

One way I remember whats parallel and whats series, is well parallel means side by side (but not connection between those two lines) which is when you hook all positives together and all negatives together and then hook those two to the amp (which decreases impendance). Series is positive to negative (one from each voice coil) then the positive and negative thats left hooks up to the amp (will increase impendance).

Trust me once you get it, you wont forget it unless you have no interest in car audio.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

cajunner said:


> You were wrong to correct his assertion.
> 
> You are wrong in that the numbers are important.
> 
> You can bridge an amp into an infinite number of impedances, not just 4 ohm.


Maybe certain amps, but not all amps. Amps from 10-12 years ago often shared a channel (my understanding on how this works is minimal). And bridging mono on a 2 channel amp nearly always resulted in a 4 ohm output, if done using the manufacturer's recommended bridging configuration.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

cajunner said:


> it was the manufacturer's minimum recommended impedance when bridging, it has nothing to do with how higher impedances affect the amp or whatever other things that it "looks" like.
> 
> the thing about bridging one side of the amplifier the way you say, is you are using only half the output devices, and pushing them at their maximum current capacity for the amp.
> 
> ...


That makes sense, even if I don't get 440W out of 8 ohm bridged. Even if it was 300W, you're right that it would be better than 280. But the main thing is your point about just using one channel and having to crank it all the way up. The CVR I got handles 400W, so backing off the gains to 3/4 or so might be a good match for this sub. Thanks for the advice.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Why can't you wire a speaker for a 2 ohm load then install an inline resistor that bring the impedance back up to 4 ohm? Would that jack with the sound quality?


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Fricasseekid said:


> Why can't you wire a speaker for a 2 ohm load then install an inline resistor that bring the impedance back up to 4 ohm? Would that jack with the sound quality?


I've never even heard of that. Hopefully someone who knows if it would work will respond.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Well it makes sense an you can buy resisistors for dirt cheap.


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## magnumsrt806 (Apr 22, 2011)

Thats what I thought about doing, cuz I have a dvc 4 ohm and I need it ti comr out to a 4 ohm load. But I dont wanna be the first so hopefully somrone will chime in and say if its good or not


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Go price 100w resistors. They will change the sound some, not sure it would be enough to matter but never used one that large either. I used to run the square little ceramic ones on rear speakers with success, on a 2ch paralleling the front and rear. You will lose power anyway the resistor will turn the power into heat. I test amps on large resistors when you get into larger power they heat right up. That is the negative, you might end up right back at the same thing at 8 ohms because the resistor may eat up as much power as the sub gets.

The best thing to do is use another sub as a resistor...lol


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

lol use a quarter-watt resistor this are dirt cheap at only five cents.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

A resistor is supposed to burn up power, through resistance. In theory if you have a 2 ohm load and need a 4 ohm load then whether you used a resistor or another sub that 4 ohms is gonna equate to less power, right? A subs resistance not only turn current into mechanical energy but it produces heat as well. Otherwise there would be voice coils that could handle 1,000,000 watts.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Fricasseekid said:


> A resistor is supposed to burn up power, through resistance. In theory if you have a 2 ohm load and need a 4 ohm load then whether you used a resistor or another sub that 4 ohms is gonna equate to less power, right? A subs resistance not only turn current into mechanical energy but it produces heat as well. Otherwise there would be voice coils that could handle 1,000,000 watts.


Yes but the other sub makes more of the dB you are looking for, so your subs go louder. The resistor does nothing but get hot. The sub used the power to make more output, the resistor does not.

You either run it at 8 ohms and take what you get, run it at 2 ohms and see if the amp blows, get a second sub to make your load right, or get a new sub that provides the right load. There really is no other productive way.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Well if you don't have money for a second sub or an amp cause you just blew the one you had...

I still don't see why the resistor won't work? A 4ohm load is a 4 ohm.....


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

It is but if you lose the output of one sub (the resistor), its likely more of a loss in dB than you would get running it at 8 ohms. You should not lose half of the wattage at 8 ohms. Last summer I ran a 150rms amp @4ohm on 8 ohm I had quad 12s IB, it did ok likely was 100rms or so. It kept up with 4x50rms on highs.


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## St. Dark (Mar 19, 2008)

A resistor will work. The amp will see a 4ohm load. 
HOWEVER, the sub is still 8. So the power is dissipated across both devices (the sub and the resistor). At the end of the day, the sub still only gets the same power, IT is still 8ohms; with the resistor getting the rest. Same as if you added another sub- it gets part of the power and the original sub gets part of the power.
The other thing to consider is you gotta put that resistor somewhere that the heat it generates won't cause an issue (ie not on carpet).


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

The title of the thread suggest he has 4 ohm DVC and he needs a 4 ohm load. I suggested he wire them for a 2 ohm load and add the resistor. 

It would be useless to add a 4 ohm resistor to a 8 ohm load. Your total impedance can't go any lower than your point of highest resistance. 

I was only suggesting adding a resistor as a means to increase impedance when needed.


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## Baada (Nov 28, 2010)

Jalba...if you do decide to wire each voice coil to its own channel you at least want it to have the same signal. Don't use one of each of the head unit's mono RCA's unless you are sure they are the same. You can buy a cheap RCA Y-adapter and give each channel the exact same signal from one of the mono RCA's. 

And FWIW, at least try it wired for the 8 ohm load, the way Sleeves initially advised. You will probably be surprised how well it sounds and everything will run consistently and longterm.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Update: I finally got around to taking the 4ohm DVC Kicker CVR 12" I bought off CL out of the box. The guy said it was a Dual 4 ohm and that he had it wired for a 2 ohm load, so I expected it to be wired in parallel, but when I took the speaker out, I found that he only had wires going to one voice coil. So I thought, "Crap, one voice coil is blown." So I ohmed out the voice coils by placing my DMM leads in the speaker terminals and I got ~2 ohms on each voice coil. The good news is that it doesn't appear to have any blown coils, and the possible second part of the good news is that it appears to be a dual 2 ohm voice coil sub, meaning I can wire in series for a 4 ohm load, which will match my bridged amp perfectly!

But am I incorrect in assuming that since I read 2 ohms on each coil that that is the actual impedance? If those were dual 4 ohm coils, would they ohm out at 4 ohms? Or is there more to the equation and a 4 ohm coil actually ohms out at 2 ohm?


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

4ohm woofers usually read 3.5-3.7ohms (3.6ohms is what I always get). A 2ohm load would read more like 1.7-1.9ohms. If both voice coils read the same your coils are good.

I had this happen to me before, I bought some solobaric 10's on ebay and when I got them one voice coil was being used. Then when I checked the other voice coils they were burnt. I was told by Toby Guynn that when you only use one voice coil on a dual woofer you loose 60% of the RMS power. Which shocked me because those 10's were still bumping hard (they sounded like ****, but I still had hard hitting bass). Even a guy told me (at a redlight side by side) "what do you have in there?", when I told them they were 10's they flipped out and said that they sounded more like a 15.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

Cool, this is a nice surprise then.  When I get a chance I'll get the model number off the speaker and double check that it's a dual 2 ohm. The guy said it pounds hard, so if he was only using 40% of its power, it should really bump with 100%. My amp does 560 RMS bridged so I'll back off the gains to about 2/3 full or so and it should be good.


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## jalba (Dec 20, 2010)

cajunner said:


> I was not aware Kicker sold two versions of their CVR DVC subs.


Yup. CompVR | KICKER

Model CVR12

Size (IN.,CM) 12, 30.0
Impedance (OHMS) 2 or 4 DVC


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

cajunner said:


> I was not aware Kicker sold two versions of their CVR DVC subs.


C'mon were talking about Kicker here, lol, you know they're going to make dual 2-ohm subs even 1-ohm quads. Thats what their all about low impendances and high SPL. Its not like were talking about some SQ brand.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Sell the subwoofer and buy something that works with a 4 ohm amplifier. Or buy an identical subwoofer, wire both for 2ohm load, and then wire the subs in series for a final 4 ohm load. Or wire the subwoofer for 8 ohms and run the amplifier in bridged mode. However, I don't think it's a good idea to run dual voicoils in stereo mode because they will be getting different signal. At least I know that I have asked this before and now has given a definitive answer to me. Yours is a very common problem that existed for years. If your wiring scheme actually worked, it would have been a common knowledge by now.


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## rideexileex (Nov 15, 2013)

Going to bump this thread since it seems somewhat relevant to the question I have. I took a long break from the audio scene, and have old equipment which I assumed to be 2 ohm stable. Upon re-reading the manuals, the amplifier I have is only stable at 4 ohms when bridged (which surprised me). The biggest shock for me was the non x2 factor with the 2 to 4 ohm power ratings.

Amp:
JBL / Crown
Px600.2
• 180W RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms and <1% THD + N
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 79.5dBA (reference 1W into 4 ohms)
• 663W RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms, 14.4V supply and
<1% THD + N
• 290W RMS x 2 channels at 2 ohms, 14.4V supply and
<1% THD + N
• Dynamic power: 692W at 4 ohms x 1 channel
• Effective damping factor: 6.274 at 4 ohms
• Frequency response: 10Hz – 97.5kHz (–3dB)
• Maximum input signal: 5.95V
• Maximum sensitivity: 264mV
• Output regulation: .056dB at 4 ohms

Sub:
JL 10w6v2
Dual 4ohm coils, so (to state the obvious, 2 ohm parallel / bridged ***not an option for me*** , 4 ohm wired as stereo from amp, or 8 ohm series wired bridged / mono)

So what's the best recommendation for utilizing the amp? It seems I'd get the 180Wx2 = 360W if the coils are wired separately, which is far less than the 663W rating for a bridged setup at 4 ohms, which in my case is a 8ohm load. It's hard to say without knowing how the amplifier behaves, but would I just assume that the 663W would remain the same for the 8ohm load, just with the amp working at half the current? Or, from the non x2 factor with the wattage between the 2 to 4 ohm amp ratings, do you think the amp wattage might actually increase more with the 8ohm load?


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## mosconiac (Nov 12, 2009)

jalba said:


> To you, and the other guy, who think I'm so confused....
> 
> ...And yet you speak with such authority and boldness (saying I'm clueless and confused)...


Such a condescending attitude from a guy that doesn't have the first clue of how to wire a pair of voicecoils to a stereo amp. 

HINT: You are clueless and confused. Swallow the ego & humbly learn from those that you are asking help from.


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## rideexileex (Nov 15, 2013)

mosconiac said:


> Such a condescending attitude from a guy that doesn't have the first clue of how to wire a pair of voicecoils to a stereo amp.
> 
> HINT: You are clueless and confused. Swallow the ego & humbly learn from those that you are asking help from.


Sorry - but I bumped a thread from 2011, so those comments previously were from quite a while ago....

But just to repost my new question onto the current page:






Going to bump this thread since it seems somewhat relevant to the question I have. I took a long break from the audio scene, and have old equipment which I assumed to be 2 ohm stable. Upon re-reading the manuals, the amplifier I have is only stable at 4 ohms when bridged (which surprised me). The biggest shock for me was the non x2 factor with the 2 to 4 ohm power ratings.

Amp:
JBL / Crown
Px600.2
• 180W RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms and <1% THD + N
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 79.5dBA (reference 1W into 4 ohms)
• 663W RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms, 14.4V supply and
<1% THD + N
• 290W RMS x 2 channels at 2 ohms, 14.4V supply and
<1% THD + N
• Dynamic power: 692W at 4 ohms x 1 channel
• Effective damping factor: 6.274 at 4 ohms
• Frequency response: 10Hz – 97.5kHz (–3dB)
• Maximum input signal: 5.95V
• Maximum sensitivity: 264mV
• Output regulation: .056dB at 4 ohms

Sub:
JL 10w6v2
Dual 4ohm coils, so (to state the obvious, 2 ohm parallel / bridged ***not an option for me*** , 4 ohm wired as stereo from amp, or 8 ohm series wired bridged / mono)

So what's the best recommendation for utilizing the amp? It seems I'd get the 180Wx2 = 360W if the coils are wired separately, which is far less than the 663W rating for a bridged setup at 4 ohms, which in my case is a 8ohm load. It's hard to say without knowing how the amplifier behaves, but would I just assume that the 663W would remain the same for the 8ohm load, just with the amp working at half the current? Or, from the non x2 factor with the wattage between the 2 to 4 ohm amp ratings, do you think the amp wattage might actually increase more with the 8ohm load?


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## mosconiac (Nov 12, 2009)

You can't get around the fact that the VC's are nominal 4ohm...you have three options (utilizing both VC's):
1) parallel for a single, ~2ohm load...your amplifier will not support this option.
2) stereo for two, ~4ohm loads...your amplifier will support this option.
3) series for a single, ~8ohm load...your amplifier will support this option.

Option 2 will give you ~360W into the sub.
Option 3 will give you ~350W into the sub (1/2 of the bridged 4ohm power rating).
It's a wash from a power perspective.

IMO, choose option 3 to save the minor inconvenience of splitting the RCA signal at the amps input. Soldering the wires/jumpers on the sub is pretty fool-proof.


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