# Oem Appearance balanced with Custom Fabrication - 2013 VW Touareg Tdi SQ build



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Hey guys,

Before i get into the build log, let me say that this build turned out to be one of our favorites.

As you may know, I have always enjoyed doing installs that has an understated, almost OEM appearance. My perfect build would be one that upon seeing it for the first time, nothing jumps out at you and screams AFTERMARKET, but you realize there is a lot of fabrication involved and the small details slowly starts to flow into your mind.

My own skill set and experience was always a limiting factor before, but now with Joey on board, that barrier has been busted clean through...and in my opinion everything really came together for this projects.

The car is a 2013 VW Touareg Tdi, owned by one of our own forum members. The goals were:

1. achieve a nice level of sound quality utilize the oem headunit

2. maintain as much room as possible in the cargo area and retain the spare tire

3. achieve a look that completely flows with the vehicle's interior

initially, this was going to be a pretty straight foward build, with a simple carpeted amp rack and sub enclosure on the two side walls, but as we got into it, and upon realizing that no stretchy carpet matches the stock shade at all, things took an interesting turn and joey really went all out to make it "factory looking custom"

lets get started.

With the factory navigation headunit, we had to work with the stock signal source. so as customary with any new car's oem headunit, i analyzed the signal, here ist he factory curve with the bass setting slightly elevated (or else it drops out like a cliff below 60-80hz), at very low to pretty high settings, as you can see, for most of the volume setting, there isnt much dynamic eq and its generally flat with the exception of the bottom end and the dip around 125, both of whcih i corrected a lil bit for with the input eq on the dsp:










for processing we used a Mosconi 6ot8DSP, and all tuning can be done from the front seat via a BT enabled laptop:










I installed the amp's remote bass control knob in a blank panel right behind his shifter:










which is actually a lil modular piece that i had to take apart and hide the guts of the bass knob:




























lets move on to the front stage, which is all morel.

a set of Morel Elate MW6 woofers went into the stock lower door location. First i ran new speaker wires into the door:










and placed a coupla blocks of focal blackhole tile behind the speaker opening:










then the rest of the door card got some STP deadener treatment:










i then fabricated these spacer rings by match routing the oem spekae mounting flange:










and coated it with several layers of truck bedliner to protect them against the elements:









the spacer was then bolted back in place using oem hardware:










and the morel secured in place:



















we also got to use a pair of foam baffle rings from a friend of ours in the industry, it helps to eliminate unwanted reflections behind the stock door grille. it double sticks to the baffle perfectly and when the door card goes back on, crushes it slightly and forms a acoustic seal of sorts.



















a bunch of focal BAM xxxl composite damper went onto the door card to both reduce resonance and to provide a barrier between the metal door panel and the plastic door card:










the same process was then repeated on the passenger side:









































































for the rest of the front stage, we went with a CDM880 dome midrange and a Supremo piccolo tweeter. the decision was made very early on to do them in the A pillars. Originally, i wanted to sink them as much as possible as the customer once again wanted to balance SQ but still keep a low profile.

but upon taking off the A pillars, i realized there is a metal brace, along with a crap load of wires and hoses that prevents me from sinking the speakers in. this means that i had to start from the surface of the oem pillar cover and if i did both relatively on axis, it would result in a very protruding pillar and the tweeter would need to be spaced out quite a bit to precent it blocking the midrange almost completely. 

so after some experimentation and drawing on past experience, i aimed the midrange, which is better off axis, more towards the front dome light area, while the tweeters were aimed relatively at the opposite listener. 

the one really cool thing that happened is that while flipping through an upholstery book, we found a material that is almost an oem match! the only thing is that it was a headliner with a foam backing. nonetheless, we ordered it.

after some bitching, i managed to peel the foam completely off the front cloth material, and wrapped the pillars with them. this resulted in an oem 100 percent OEM match! 

I will just have the pics do the talking


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

lets take a look at a few build pics.

first the pillars, which was wrapped in a similar cloth material, was coated with resin to harden the surface. i then cut out the ring baffles for the two drivers, with their own flush mounting wall:










the rings were them aimed and seucred to the pillars:



















cloth was then pulled, resin applied, allow to harden, and then pillars were reinforced from the inside via a duraglass/resin mixture:










filler was then applied and both pillars sanded smooth:



















in order for the colors of the stock plastic and bondo to show through the thin cloth, i painted both pillars with tan spraypaint:











then each pillar was carefully wrapped with the headliner material:




























i also stripped and repainted the two grilles with satin black paint so they would match cosmetically:










next comes some pics of the wiring bundle as it goes from the front of the car to the back, the only thing different is the oem battery location UNDER the front seat, where i secured the fuseholder. (who the heck at VW thought this battery location was a good idea?)


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so thats it for the front of the car. moving onto the main attraction  the cargo area.

as mentioned the idea was for custom yet somehow flow with the lines and colors of the interior.

so we took inspiration from the oem material, which has a tan vinyl, brown vinyl, and silver trim ring look, along wtih of course, tan carpet. this color combo can be see for example, in this rear door panel:










since i forgot to take a cargo area before the build, here is pretty much the same car to give you an idea of before and after 










so lift up the tailgate and here is what you see.

two fiberglass addition, one on each side. on the driver side, a single illusion audio Carbon C10XL 10" sub resides in an enclosure of around .7 cub feet, while on the passender side, a mosconi AS200.4 amp powers the midbass with 200 watts RMS and the sub with close to 700. both racks feature a combination of tan carpet, tan vinyl, brown vinyl, painted silver trim ring just like stock, both also has a painted silver mesh to protect them. 

i really think pictures dont do this install justice, i couldnt stop looking at the marvel Joey came up this whole week 

but here are a bunch of pics of everything:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

under the front part of the cargo floor, there used to be just foam and dead space, i used it instead to secure a second Mosconi AS200.4 powering the mid and tweeter with 200 watts each, and a 6ot8DSP controlling everything.
you can see the back of it when you lift up the floor (more pics later)










a final shot of the car from a distance and also of the trimmed oem cargo mat back in place:



















so now onto the build pics, and once again, there are quite a bit of skipped steps in between haha, but here are the ones that joey took: 

first the driver side carpet was tapped off, a front baffle fabricated:



















fiberglass was then laid down, allowed to cure and test fitted in the car:





































next the front baffle was trimmed and attached, filler applied and sanded, the extra void had cloth stretched over and resin applied:




























filler was then apllied and the entire top half sanded smooth:



















vinyl was then applied to the top half, while the bottom was tapped off and ready to accept tan carpet, this was a backed non flexible carpet that matched well but could never be used to wrap around complex shapes:



















and the illusion carbon XL wired up and installed:



















the two piece ring which took some fancy router work, with the outter one primered and painted silver, and the inner one in factory matching brown vinyl:


















for the amp rack, pictures are a bit scarce lol blame joey!

so the area the amp would sit in was tapped off and then later cut away:









to keep the entire rack as low profile as possible, joey fabricated a rack out of 1/8" stock, welded it together, and painted black. and then it was bolted to the car with rivetnuts:




























then we skipped foward a bunch and here ist he rack before upholstery:










followed by a singular pic of the start of the trim ring process:










and finally, the entire piece upholstered and installed, along with a close shot of the press fit trim ring:



























finally, some wiring related pics of the stuff under the cargo floor, first i soldered and tapped the front output signals from the stock headunit, which ironically, resides in the passenger side rear quater panel:










then i put in a crap load of rivetnuts into the floor, these secure the amp, the dsp, and two distribution blocks. i used plastic spacers of various sizes to level the dsp and the amp:










and finally, a shot of all the wiring below the floor:























































so thats it. i think the pics speak for themselves, but for me personally, i couldnt be happier about how it turned out cosmetically.

sonically, the car is quite good as well, good impact on midbass, i tuned it for very smooth and mellow highs. staging is very high and well centered (right below the rear view mirror), width is suprisingly good for where the speaker are located, and depth is decent. the c10xl does a great job of filling hte cabin with smooth bass, the only downside is that the filter on the stock headunit seem to get rid of some ultra low freq stuff...i think we are going to investigate recoding the HU for flat line level out, as over the past few days, ross-tech, who sells the vagcom, could not provide us with a usable code.

anyway, thats it, thank for reading 


i also created a quick youtube video of the front stage and cargo area for your viewing pleasure:






Bing


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## vwdave (Jun 12, 2013)

I have to say that this is one of if not my complete favorite install on this site. great job, I really like the work you did to keep it looking as factory as possible. Great job!

do you know which factory head unit that is? is that the RNS-510? cant get a good look from the odd angle. if thats the RNS-510 then I might change to it, as people have said that the 510 has too much internal EQ.


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Awesome work... As usual. Do you guys have a cross country shipper you use? Lol


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

amazing work bing!


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## Audio-Concepts (Mar 29, 2011)

This build is gorgeous! Nicely done guys!!!


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## Frequency (Nov 29, 2011)

Very nice and understated, did think for a moment there on that initial trunk shot that it was all running off 1 amp. I recall an article from ages ago with Steve Brown (or maybe Chris Yato?) from Alpine talking about their Civic where he said something along the lines of "who says you have to display all the gear if you can get a nice aesthetic with just some of it", which you've achieved in spades here , beautiful.


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## mark620 (Dec 8, 2010)

Sweet as usual..


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## DJTrevLuv (Apr 15, 2008)

Awesome job! Super clean install! 

Trev


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## shawnk (Jan 11, 2010)

Oh man. So nice and clean and yes definitely has the quality "oem" look.

Just fanstastic!!!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


>


Hmmm....that looks familiar. lol

That's an RNS-850, isn't it? 

I see examples of things I would do differently on the next one.

This looks great. Truly amazing.

Have your hands recovered from the acetone yet? (And do you have a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol handy now? lol)

Glad to see the Mosconi amp fit in that dead space in front of the cargo area. I would certainly use that space, instead of hiding the amp in the right rear corner.

Did you ever get the HU recoded to low level out?

I've been waiting to see this for a while!

Jay


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


>


What do you use to make a mold like that? A lot of guys use 1.5 oz mat, from what I've seen, but I've been wondering if starting my first layer or two with .75 oz mat would be a better start in areas where I have a lot of contours. I've had reasonable success using 1.5oz, but the piece I have in mind has a lot of contours and stuff to work around.
Also, how many layers do you typically use?
Thanks.

Jay


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i can't stop staring at the pillars....totally the best looking pillars i have ever seen...simply amazing.

There may be more to the car...and it may be equally as nice, but i won't ever know, because i cannot get past these pillars....#game over #perfection #omg bob


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

this build is totally amazing!! the pillars....... DROOL!!!!


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

Definitely some of the sickest fab out there.
You guys Keep Raising the Bar


IOTY.


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## slowride (Jan 26, 2009)

Bing, another fantastic build. You and Joey turn out some awesome rides. Subtle but great. Does that model have the Dynaudio system? Coding for the RNS in the lowers models are different. Wonder if that would help change that dip. Unless its already done. If we have a Touareg in the back tomorrow I can try to check its coding. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

itsmyturn said:


> Bing, another fantastic build. You and Joey turn out some awesome rides. Subtle but great. Does that model have the Dynaudio system? Coding for the RNS in the lowers models are different. Wonder if that would help change that dip. Unless its already done. If we have a Touareg in the back tomorrow I can try to check its coding.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


It's a LUX. I figured I there wasn't much point in buying the Executive if Bing was just going to upgrade it. Would love to know about the coding for sure-- THANK YOU!

I wanted to say a big THANK YOU to Bing and JOey! They really delivered here. Couldn't be happier with the install and execution.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Killing it once again. Your guys' work never ceases to amaze me! 

That being said, JOey will never get installer of the year if you guys keep neglecting motorized amp racks and flashing LEDs.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Yea, all of the above


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

I believe that was .75oz and just a lot of layers. When I do something like that I will either make a pattern and precut the layers and then roll them all out as one full piece, or just use little pieces just pieced together. This one was a bunch of pieces. If you are doing a more complex shape, the more time the resin has on the mat, the more it breaks down the starch that holds the fibers together, the more flexible it all becomes. Using a roller also helps with that process, and also helps get the air bubbles out. 
Layers really depends. If it is a more curved shape with more inherent strength I will use less than a more flat piece.





JayinMI said:


> What do you use to make a mold like that? A lot of guys use 1.5 oz mat, from what I've seen, but I've been wondering if starting my first layer or two with .75 oz mat would be a better start in areas where I have a lot of contours. I've had reasonable success using 1.5oz, but the piece I have in mind has a lot of contours and stuff to work around.
> Also, how many layers do you typically use?
> Thanks.
> 
> Jay


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

rton20s said:


> Killing it once again. Your guys' work never ceases to amaze me!
> 
> That being said, JOey will never get installer of the year if you guys keep neglecting motorized amp racks and flashing LEDs.


Dude, I got 2 rolls of LED's and an actuator on deck just waiting on your XB and a couple of pints of ice cream!!!


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## AzzurriAudioworks (Dec 28, 2011)

As everyone has said, amazing work as usual guys. I'm very big on the "Factory Custom" look too, both on the inside and outside of vehicles, and you guys pulled it off brilliantly here.

Would you mind sharing your source for the headliner fabric you used on the pillars? I know for sure that little discovery is going to make a LOT of guys on VW forums very happy


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

We sourced it from veteran company. Pt134 stone is the pn

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Dude, I got 2 rolls of LED's and an actuator on deck just waiting on your XB and a couple of pints of ice cream!!!


Dude! Pencil me in an appointment. Order an extra roll of LEDs though. And do you guys do Lambo doors?


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

rton20s said:


> Dude! Pencil me in an appointment. Order an extra roll of LEDs though. And do you guys do Lambo doors?


Dude, Lambos don't even have lambo doors anymore, that junk is lame. We do gullwings exclusively...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I believe that was .75oz and just a lot of layers. When I do something like that I will either make a pattern and precut the layers and then roll them all out as one full piece, or just use little pieces just pieced together. This one was a bunch of pieces. If you are doing a more complex shape, the more time the resin has on the mat, the more it breaks down the starch that holds the fibers together, the more flexible it all becomes. Using a roller also helps with that process, and also helps get the air bubbles out.
> Layers really depends. If it is a more curved shape with more inherent strength I will use less than a more flat piece.


Thanks. I was building the back half of my enclosure using some 3/4oz and then 1.5oz, and some cheap Bondo and 3M resin. I'm going to be putting in an order to US Composites soon so I can start over. It wasn't coming out that bad, but it wasn't coming out as nice as I wanted.

Jay


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

dream team-awesome install


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

once again a fine fine install by you guys. wish i lived closer


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Dude, Lambos don't even have lambo doors anymore, that junk is lame. We do gullwings exclusively...


This please...









Intsaller of the year FTW!


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

top notch as usual


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Thanks. I was building the back half of my enclosure using some 3/4oz and then 1.5oz, and some cheap Bondo and 3M resin. I'm going to be putting in an order to US Composites soon so I can start over. It wasn't coming out that bad, but it wasn't coming out as nice as I wanted.
> 
> Jay


Nice resin IS nicer to work with.. Typically some of the benefits are it is thinner, so it wets the mat easier, and that it will cure at a more even rate...
From US Composites I have used the 435 layup resin with good results..


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

rton20s said:


> This please...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That, sir, would put you in the gallons of ice cream price range...


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

woah, just realized this thread got crosslinked on some chinese audio forums! 

大家好!　如果有什么意见请email我: [email protected].


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If this goes anything like the one I did, people will be calling you from all over asking you questions. I had one guy was willing to bring his all the way from Las Vegas and drop it off for a couple months in MI while he was out of the country for work. I suggested a shop about 15 mins from his house.

I had another guy call and ask me about doing a new Touareg from Pennsylvania, and talked to him for nearly an hour.

And I had a guy from the forum ask me about some stuff here too. I think his username was Rugndit. lol

And that doesn't even include the stuff from the Touareg forums.
It's like a big untapped market! lol

Jay


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## slowride (Jan 26, 2009)

rugdnit said:


> It's a LUX. I figured I there wasn't much point in buying the Executive if Bing was just going to upgrade it. Would love to know about the coding for sure-- THANK YOU!
> 
> I wanted to say a big THANK YOU to Bing and JOey! They really delivered here. Couldn't be happier with the install and execution.


I had the chance to view two Touaregs yesterday. One was a 2012 lux with the RNS 850. The other was a 2013 with Dynaudio. I checked the coding on both the radio, address 56, and the infotainment module or RNS 850, address 5F. 

While the coding is certainly different I have no idea what byte/s to change in the long coding. VAG COM long coding helper didn't help either as Ross Tech doesn't have that info. 

Anyway I have part numbers and long coding of those modules if you still want them. Just wish I could help you more. Still a great build. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

we will keep on trying  Jay is club touareg the main forum?


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

I would pay to watch you guys work.


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

Victor_inox said:


> I would pay to watch you guys work.


I had that thought when my truck goes in LOL. 

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

rugdnit said:


> It's a LUX. I figured I there wasn't much point in buying the Executive if Bing was just going to upgrade it. Would love to know about the coding for sure-- THANK YOU!
> 
> I wanted to say a big THANK YOU to Bing and JOey! They really delivered here. Couldn't be happier with the install and execution.


I'd love to hear your car when I get to that area next. 

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> If this goes anything like the one I did, people will be calling you from all over asking you questions. I had one guy was willing to bring his all the way from Las Vegas and drop it off for a couple months in MI while he was out of the country for work. I suggested a shop about 15 mins from his house.
> 
> I had another guy call and ask me about doing a new Touareg from Pennsylvania, and talked to him for nearly an hour.
> 
> ...


You saw some of my Traverse build. It took me way too long and in the end my OCD got the better of me. Bing and JOey really delivered on the factory fit and finish. I would not have been able to do that and with this vehicle it had to be on the money. Really happy with the install.


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## mnjordan (May 23, 2013)

DAMN I love this install. 

Couple of questions - 

Where can I get that perforated metal you guys used for the sub grill:










And what kind of dye do you add to resin to get it black?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the mesh we get from mcmaster.com perforated steel sheets, comes in all sizes, shapes and sizes, email me (i posted my email in your wagon build log), i will see if i can dig up the part number.

as for the dye, ummm..that one joey can answer.


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

I know that us composites sells dyes of a few colors to add to their resin. 

Probably many sources to find dyes that would work. 
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

Schizm said:


> I know that us composites sells dyes of a few colors to add to their resin.
> 
> Probably many sources to find dyes that would work.
> Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


This /\ I think the dye I have is from Mobile Solutions, though..


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Excellent work guys.

Joey....I think my question was already answered just looking at those sub build pics.

I think it was the way the upper 1/2 was blended with the round baffle piece.

But after looking at the amp rack pics it hit me how you did it. 

Did you guys post those pics anywhere else? Because they looked familiar.


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## Eggroll (Mar 2, 2012)

Great work as usual!


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

itsmyturn said:


> I had the chance to view two Touaregs yesterday. One was a 2012 lux with the RNS 850. The other was a 2013 with Dynaudio. I checked the coding on both the radio, address 56, and the infotainment module or RNS 850, address 5F.
> 
> While the coding is certainly different I have no idea what byte/s to change in the long coding. VAG COM long coding helper didn't help either as Ross Tech doesn't have that info.
> 
> ...


I appreciate the help. It's pretty frustrating. Hopefully we can get this worked out.


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

Schizm said:


> I'd love to hear your car when I get to that area next.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


No problem. LMK when you are in the area and hopefully our schedules mesh. I have not done any tweaking-- Seems pointless until we get the coding. It's very smooth right now.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> we will keep on trying  Jay is club touareg the main forum?


I guess, that was the one I've heard the most about. 
I only signed up to post the one I did, and answer a few questions here and there. Sometimes there are good how-to's, also.

Jay


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

itsmyturn said:


> I had the chance to view two Touaregs yesterday. One was a 2012 lux with the RNS 850. The other was a 2013 with Dynaudio. I checked the coding on both the radio, address 56, and the infotainment module or RNS 850, address 5F.
> 
> While the coding is certainly different I have no idea what byte/s to change in the long coding. VAG COM long coding helper didn't help either as Ross Tech doesn't have that info.
> 
> ...


What we initially did was the long code at address 56. Ross-Tech gave us a new long code, but it didn't work. And as you saw, there was no help breakdown to know which part to change...


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## AzzurriAudioworks (Dec 28, 2011)

As far as coding, I don't know if you guys would have looked already, but I would say to check out vwnavi.com or mfd3.com. You could also try a guy on vwvortex.com under the name "maloosheck"... Dude is a VW electrical god.


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

AzzurriAudioworks said:


> As far as coding, I don't know if you guys would have looked already, but I would say to check out vwnavi.com or mfd3.com. You could also try a guy on vwvortex.com under the name "maloosheck"... Dude is a VW electrical god.



Thank you! Will check him out. Much appreciated!


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## robert_wrath (Apr 24, 2011)

Bing & Joey, Superb Fabrication/Install as usual. Keep up the tremendous habit of steppin up the game on each client car which enters the bay.

Gotta add this:
Mosconi 6to8 is ideal supreme for German Import SQ installs with OEM Integration. Makes the job too easy. Most installers would likely agree with me on this one.


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## Mindcrime (Jul 18, 2012)

I love this build! 
I was happy with mine.....now, not so much! Lol


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## English audiophile (Sep 25, 2010)

Love the fit & finish. Fantastic attention to detail guys.


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## rmchevelle (Jul 22, 2008)

Another great build log. Thanks for posting it.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Hey Bing (or JOey), I meant to ask how you derived switched power. Did you end up using the CAN bus adapter, or did you come up with something else? Also, did you have to do anything unusual with the wiring of the 6to8?

Jay


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Hey Bing (or JOey), I meant to ask how you derived switched power. Did you end up using the CAN bus adapter, or did you come up with something else? Also, did you have to do anything unusual with the wiring of the 6to8?
> 
> Jay


I used body filler and fiberglass... Oh.. wait.. Umm.. This is a Bing question... I know there weren't any real noise issues, though..


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## Wja96 (Jan 14, 2013)

That's a very nice install. When mine was done (very similar subwoofer install) the sub enclosure covered the concealed hole that gives access to the big hex nut that releases the rear light to change a bulb. This only came to light when the car needed a bulb replaced and it had to go back to the audio installer because I couldn't work out how to get to the nut and the VW dealer refused to touch it in case they damaged it.

Have you considered this and, if so, how did you overcome it?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i would say this would require the panel be popped out, but from our experience, it wasnt too bad, i think i can loosen the entire panel to get at the nut ( i know exactly what you are referring to) in under 5 mins. (actually had to do that a few times haha)

perhaps its part of the compromise one makes with a sub enclosure of this design. the alternative would be to make a quick removable enclosure, which involes other types of compromises


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## Wja96 (Jan 14, 2013)

Yes, on my car you have to take the sub out to get to the mounting that holds the panel in, which makes it a bit of a shop job. Luckily the Treg has 2 complete sets of rear lights so it's still legal to drive in the UK even if the whole cluster in the wing/fender goes down.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Nice resin IS nicer to work with.. Typically some of the benefits are it is thinner, so it wets the mat easier, and that it will cure at a more even rate...
> From US Composites I have used the 435 layup resin with good results..


What are some other options that you've used? US Composites is the one I always hear people using, but I'm open to other options. There's a local supplier kinda near me, and I was looking for other options in case they have something I hadn't yet heard of.

Thanks.

Jay


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## Celestial Bliss (Sep 17, 2011)

Excellent work as always.

I really like the stealth/oem appearance in the rear cargo area!


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## James Cole (Dec 6, 2016)

Hello OP...

Sometime ago I had a 2014 Touareg as well and did an audio install using the OEM HU... It was TERRIBLE, when turning up the volume the OEM HU would increase the highs and it was very uncomfortable to listen to, did you had this problem as well?

Also the noise floor was a bit high and got a bit of alternator noise... did you get this as well?

JC


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Did you use a processor of some kind in your install?

Because, yeah, the factory radio uses "bass management" where it kills the bass at higher volumes making it very uncomfortable to listen to at high volumes. The one I did (2012 TDI Lux, Nav, no Dynaudio) the frequency dropped pretty bad at about 45Hz. There's some other info in the build thread I did for it.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/130428-2012-vw-touareg-audio-build.html

If you have some kind of processing, and tune it to work in a volume range before the bass management kicks in, you can make it sound pretty good.

The one I did got a Mosconi 6to8 as well, with an Alpine PDX-V9 running all the speakers, and I had 0 noise.


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## James Cole (Dec 6, 2016)

JayinMI said:


> Did you use a processor of some kind in your install?
> 
> Because, yeah, the factory radio uses "bass management" where it kills the bass at higher volumes making it very uncomfortable to listen to at high volumes. The one I did (2012 TDI Lux, Nav, no Dynaudio) the frequency dropped pretty bad at about 45Hz. There's some other info in the build thread I did for it.
> 
> ...


I did, a bit ten, altought I did not use the DRC, I used the factory volume, what bother me the most was the high frecuency harshness the bass roll off was not as problematic to me...


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