# Mark's Zaph Bargain Mini



## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Hey guys, so i finally got around to taking a few pictures of these bad boys.

First some background...

http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZBM4.html

I'm staying fairly true to the original design.

Removable baffles - new for me, but this was pretty much necessary for the rear mount tweet. To aid in fitment, i made the front plates all slightly bigger, then bolted down the baffles tight and sanded flush with a belt sander. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out.

Front port - I switched to front port because i will likely use these on my desk which sits much to close to the rear wall for a rear port. On this subject, i also modded the crossover for the lesser baffle step compensation. I unwound the main inductor to the new value, added a tap there, then wound it back up. This way if i switch things around, i can quickly take the front baffle off and swap a few wires (also requires swapping some L-pad values).

Cheap mans flared port - I didn't feel like having a separate order from parts express (since i was already ordering from madisound and MCM), so i just used some 1" PVC pipe...FYI, did you know 1" spec'd PVC is actually 1 1/8" ID, YES inner diameter. So i have no idea where they get the 1" from, perhaps from the end fittings or something.
Anyways, for a cheap flared port, just use your round-over bit on the port  . Maybe this is obvious, but i always love how it comes out, especially after painted.

Router work. These were slightly intensive on router work. The tweeter opening is an oddball size (35mm or something). Instead of buying a new custom/rare bit, i looked through all my router bits and found one that was very close (outer diameter of the entire bit...it was a decorative one of some sorts). So, i just clamped the router down and plunged the whole thing through. Worked like a charm. As zaph mentions, the frame on this woofer is pretty flimsy and hard to mount, i could have got away with 1 cutout, but i did the extra recess for a little more meat and sealing area.

Later this week will come crossover assembly.

Enjoy the pics.










































































































My apologize, everything looks a little dirty, but they have been kicking around the garage for a while. They'll all get their share of sanding and filling. I usually go with the black textured finish as i can do it in about 20 minutes start to finish 

Mark



EDIT:
More pics

Here's before paint, filled and sanded:








Preping for where i'll place these things








Painting:








































Notice the lines from brush marks...not noticable at all after texture spray








Texture sprayed:

















IF you look really close you can almost see the brush lines (go from bottom left to top right in the pic)...but it's really hard to tell and doesn't look bad at all.

















Ok: it's like 2:30, so i just glued the mid in with some hot glue in 2 spots...will have to remove and seal properly and screw down, as well as use sealing tape for the baffle. 

















The fitment came out VERY nice, and the finish is pretty good too as usual with this spray. I used my typical 2 layers of carpet padding for damping (actually works not bad...Zaph even says this somewhere). Although i only had the 1 test crossover built, i listened to a little mono. WOW. The midrange puts my GR research/seas 2 ways to shame (and parts are like 1/3 the cost). Bass isn't close to the 5.25" GR though (GR has 55hz f3). I"ll have to do more extensive listening and especially with 2 drivers. Might have to tweak the crossover too (i don't think the baffle step adjustment is necessary for on desk...tonal balance is a bit on the bright side). 3am...must sleep. More to come guys.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

mtnickel,

Nice job !!


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## jj_diamond (Oct 3, 2007)

one day. i too will be doing something similar. very nice job with the router.  

can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Xander (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice job with mounting everything, looks like it's kind of a pain. the flared port looks good too. You going to use a special sealant on the mdf?


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## scott_fx (Mar 31, 2006)

i'm really interested in hearing your thoughts on these speakers. i want to build 3 for my house. great work!


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## Diru (May 23, 2006)

So you listening to them yet?

Like to see what you got to say about them


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Just did some filling and sanding tonight...paint to come soon...maybe i'll do a writeup on the black textured finish. Soooo easy. The main product is the duplicolor truckbed liner spray at walmart.

Here's the jist of it...

Prime with coat 1 of black (or primer if you want).
Let dry (or dry enough to recoat).
Paint coat 2 with black.
Then just a light spray with the truck bedliner from a distance of about 18". Do this to personal preference, but i find 2 light coats is usually enough.

As for painting the base coats. You can use a foam roller, regular roller, regular brush, foam brush...anything.
I usually use a foam brush cuz they are disposable really. I also use oil paint for durability.
Obviously keep the paint all going in one direction. I used a regular brush once and strokes were somewhat noticable, but because they were all perfectly straight and lengthwise it looked good (this was also textured, but the combo looked good).

Anyways, i'm talking too much, you'll see from the shots...maybe i'll do this again, but with pics. 

mark


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Xander said:


> Nice job with mounting everything, looks like it's kind of a pain. the flared port looks good too. You going to use a special sealant on the mdf?


Sealant on MDF will be a thin foam tape. (I think it's like 3/8" x 1/8" wide, closed cell, but compresses very nicely.)...similar to what zaph used...
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZBM4-insulation.jpg


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

mtnickel said:


> Sealant on MDF will be a thin foam tape. (I think it's like 3/8" x 1/8" wide, closed cell, but compresses very nicely.)...similar to what zaph used...
> http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZBM4-insulation.jpg


That is sweet !  ^^^^^^^^

Those speakers are going to give you what you want.


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Nice job with routing the port flares. Clever.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Good job! They look very nice. I bought a 35 mm hole saw from www.mcmaster.com for about $5.xx. If they turn out good I might have to make some for my bedroom.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

dBassHz said:


> Good job! They look very nice. I bought a 35 mm hole saw from www.mcmaster.com for about $5.xx. If they turn out good I might have to make some for my bedroom.


I doubt they'll turn out bad. Zaph makes some pretty good designs and covers all the bases.

Good deal on the hole saw.

Paint pictures very soon.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

First post edited with more pics. (finishing done...just crossover assembly and driver installation required.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

That texture looks great !!


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Hope the crossovers turn out great too !


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

Anyone have any ideas for sealing the tweeter????

I need it to be removable, but it can't take up any space between the flange and the wood (otherwise the depth wont' be right).
Only thing i can think of is like some brush-on non-hardening rubbery goup...but i have no idea what product this would be.
Otherwise i might just seal it from behind pressing clay all the way around. It might even be sealed enough as it is (with the tight fitment)...but sometimes i get anal. Almost like i could use a thick grease or something.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Perhaps, silicone [ clear ].


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## effenay (Mar 2, 2006)

mtnickel said:


> Anyone have any ideas for sealing the tweeter????


Butyl tape. Great for filling all the little voids, and you can compress it down.

I can give some to you next time you're in the neighbourhood.


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## mtnickel (Mar 15, 2005)

effenay said:


> Butyl tape. Great for filling all the little voids, and you can compress it down.
> 
> I can give some to you next time you're in the neighbourhood.


Thanks Bryan (oops, should i not use your real name  ), It needs to compress to within .5mm i'd think though.
Silicone i thought would be too strong for disassembly....maybe i could spray the wood with a little wd40 to resist a little adhesion.
Either that or i might use a soft cocking from behind, so i could cut through it.


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## effenay (Mar 2, 2006)

No worries, Mark 

I've compressed butyl tape down to paper-thin. It's easily removable if it doesn't work out.

Great work on the Minis, BTW.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

effenay said:


> Butyl tape. Great for filling all the little voids, and you can compress it down.


x2 The brand at Home Depot is Tacky Tape and it's in the roofing section. It's my "duct tape" for sealing, temporary mounting, and void filling.


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