# 2000 Honda Civic EX Coupe started!



## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

*2000 Honda Civic EX Coupe install started!*

Sup fellas, so I started my project on my daily driver today. I decided to gut the thing and start with sound deadening. Today I ripped out the seats, trim, and carpeting and got it mostly deadened. Since I work at Stokes Car Entertainment I decided to use the RAAMaudio projects we sell, so I used BXT 60 for the deadener, and then barely got to using Ensolite at the end. Here's pictures for y'all of what was accomplished so far:

After everything ripped out:






















And now like 4 hours later, after a nice chemical bath, the same areas deadened:






















Since I have a coupe, the rear quarter panels are an especially noisy area, so here's a better shot of the left side. I put 2 layers of BXT on the outer skin, and when I get the gusto and buy an aluminum door repair screen kit, I'll screw that over these access holes and put another layer on top of that. Here's what I've done so far:












I put a little bit more mat down on the floor right next to the shifter and center console, and then started down with my first layer of ensolite. This is basically where I finished today. 












Tomorrow I plan on finishing a layer of ensolite throughout the car. I will put a few more swatches of mat and another layer of ensolite under the feet of both sides to counteract the front tire noise, and also will do two ensolite layers inside each rear quarter panel.

After this then I'll have to find some time off for the trunk, front doors, and the hood (hood should take an hour max) with BXT and Motor Mat Pro within the next couple weeks.

I know it's not an "all out" thing, but for my first time ever taking anything apart in my car, and for a daily driver, I think I've done alright. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

Looking great so far.... 

I know what it's like with a daily driver... My demo car is also my car.. Drive to work, take apart, do update, put it back together, drive home.....
PITA!!

Anyway, keep up the good work and pics! 

Mark


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## camojoe (Jan 23, 2007)

Looks great man!You should notice a huge improvement when you get her put back together.Keep us updated on your progress.


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

Very nice!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Alright, so here's the results of day two! My hands hurt, I've christened the car unintentionally with my blood, and by the end of this 6 hour fiasco today and the 9 hours yesterday I wanted to shoot myself but it's mostly done. Just need to rebolt the driver seat down since one isn't all the way in still!  


Left rear quarter panel & wheel well with ensolite:











Back seat enveloped in ensolite, somehow we did it in one piece!











Final shot before being put together again:













There's a noticeable difference already, most times the car's engine is nearly inaudible at idle! I'm sure that when I do the doors, hood, and put some ensolite behind the front panels it will help a lot. The bad thing about deadening is it drowns out road noise so I can hear normal vibrations in the car a lot more clearly and it drives me nuts!!! I'll have to fix those someday...

Anyway, I'll keep updating as I get further along!


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## OldOneEye (Jun 16, 2005)

Looks good. I would suggest putting more if possible in that area under the rear side window (especially over the wheel well) as well as over the rest of the each rear and front wheel well. I haven't posted an update from my car in the post linked in my sig, but here is what I did:










It's about 4" deep, and there is 2 layers of Dynamat Extreme, a two layers of Accumat 250 (a pad for the floorboard) and a layer of hoodliner in there. Why? Because if you notice that is one of the few areas Nissan bother sound deadening (should be telling me something) and because nothing else was going in there anyway (and I wasn't going to use the hoodliner, it would have been like a blanket over my engine, very little clearance). The accumat was a sample I got that I was going to use at some point then I got all Dynamat in the car so I wanted to put it somewhere that it would absorb noise. 

Juan


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Noticed that, I did just over one layer on each of those panels, and then did some that kind of overlapped the wheel well and that outer skin too. I even thought about stuffing a pillow or two in there!  Couldn't hurt right?

When I go in to install the wiring in a month or so then I think I'll put some more mat over the front wheel wells, and at that same time I take out the rear speakers, I'll seal off those access holes for the rear quarters. I did notice however that Honda put two big blocks of styrofoam there and a piece of foam across the plastic panel. Better than nothing I suppose!


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## donpisto (Jul 26, 2006)

Looking great! Seeing this Honda's gutted makes me want to do the same to my Accord.


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## OldOneEye (Jun 16, 2005)

ZoNtO said:


> Noticed that, I did just over one layer on each of those panels, and then did some that kind of overlapped the wheel well and that outer skin too. I even thought about stuffing a pillow or two in there!  Couldn't hurt right?
> 
> When I go in to install the wiring in a month or so then I think I'll put some more mat over the front wheel wells, and at that same time I take out the rear speakers, I'll seal off those access holes for the rear quarters. I did notice however that Honda put two big blocks of styrofoam there and a piece of foam across the plastic panel. Better than nothing I suppose!


Anything that absorbs moisture is bad. Fiberglass (like the kind in your attic) is a big moisture hog, sucking it up like a sponge. 

Juan


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## RedVWR32 (Mar 12, 2008)

Looks like that was a PITA. I need to a lot of sound deadening in my car but I haven't had the patience yet. Or the spare cash and time, not to mention a place to work. Living in an apartment sucks since youre out in public and every person walking by stops to be nosey.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

It really was man, and considering I've never done anything mechanically really I was intimidated so much by the whole idea. I didn't think it was possible to be this sore and cut up from a deadening job! Definitely gained a new perspective and respect for mechanics/installers! Luckily I was able to use a spare bay in our install shop though so it was out of view and no one could laugh at me! 

I think I'll do the hood next...


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Update 4/1/08 - The Motor Mat Pro installation! w00t!

So since we were slow at work today, I got a few hours to work on the car again and decided to do the hood liner and RaamMAT. Procedure was basically the same as before:

1. Cleaned the surface metal with dilluted paint surface preparer

2. Let dry

3. Applied one layer of RAAMmat to the underside of the hood, two layers in my two bigger sheet metal portions.

Picture of the RAAMmat installed:










Then I drove home and pieced together the Motor Mat Pro. I got most of my Motor Mat installation ideas from this thread on the SecondSkin forums.

What I did was cut the sheet Anthony sent me in half and test fitted it to the hood. I then used a nail to poke through the foam to the 5 or 6 clip holes that I had available. Next up I sealed all the edges of the foam with foil tape. Once this was done, I applied the Second Skin adhesive to the hood and foam and waited about a minute or so. First thing was to push the clips in, and then situate the foam piece so it was vertically straight and push it to the hood. The adhesive holds really well! 

After all was said and done and I covered the middle seam with a piece of foil tape, this is the end result:










It's not show quality or anything, but the difference this made is incredible! The only sound I can hear outside the car when the engine is running is my belt squeaking cuz of the cold. Inside, basically all the noise comes from my undeadened doors and trunk now. It's really great, I would totally suggest doing Motor Mat Pro to anyone. It also protects the hood paint from the engine heat, so you won't have nasty peeling paint in 5-10 years.

All in all, I'm satisfied with this project! Total time was about 3 hours or so including driving time home from my work to do the mat. Next up, replacing my two window regulators and motors before I go to town on the doors!


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## katodevin (Feb 14, 2008)

How much did that Motor Mat Pro run you? Where'd you buy it? How many sq feet did you need?


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

40 bucks for MMP, here's the product page link:

http://secondskinaudio.com/thermal-insulation/motor-mat-pro.php

Also bought a can of their adhesive for 10 bucks, and foil tape for like 8 bucks.

I just bought one sheet which is 9 square feet, and cut it in half to fit my hood the best. Just PM Anthony (user name: DIYMA) about placing an order. I just called him up and it all got here in like 3 days!


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Great work! Hondas really benefit from sound deadning. A fellow Civic owner applied deadning to his wheel arches/mud guards. Look at this link.

http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=539591

The reduction in cabin noise from the tyres was VERY noticeable. Its a small $$ hi labour invesment that will really help you get the best from your coupe.
Keep it up.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

That's a nice idea! Thanks man! I bookmarked that page, and if I ever get the moxie and a mechanic that will sacrifice a bay for a half day, then for sure I'll do it. I do notice that the front tires have a ton of noise, the rear ones aren't nearly as loud cuz I did the wheel wells and such though....

Anybody have any more suggestions?


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## katodevin (Feb 14, 2008)

Awesome. Good to hear that 1 sheet was enough for your hood. Appreciate the info.


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## ViperVin (Mar 15, 2008)

dayum thats a lot of sound deadening, nice work


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

ViperVin said:


> dayum thats a lot of sound deadening, nice work


Thanks! I just noticed when I was knocking on my hood to check resonance on the bigger panels that my knuckles were bleeding, so now I've christened my car yet again with my own blood. Every sound deadening project requires that sacrifice I guess, I'm 3 for 3 so far!


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## Bryce (Apr 6, 2008)

I Have a 2000 Civc Si, and man I did alot of sound deadening in mine, and a boddy of mine's, but not that much.
I'm all for SQ, but I cant sacrifice too much performance wise(weight) to do the hood. How much of a difference does the hood make in the Civic's?
Dont you hate all the plastic clips, such a pain....


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Bryce said:


> I Have a 2000 Civc Si, and man I did alot of sound deadening in mine, and a boddy of mine's, but not that much.
> I'm all for SQ, but I cant sacrifice too much performance wise(weight) to do the hood. How much of a difference does the hood make in the Civic's?
> Dont you hate all the plastic clips, such a pain....


I noticed a pretty big difference in engine noise reduction with the hood liner. If you're referring to the plastic clips inside the car and trunk, then yes I hate them with a passion! Some of mine were missing from the get-go, the trunk basically has nothing from whoever owned the car before me.

Worst part is, Honda dealership says each clip ranges for 2-3 bucks, and I need like 8.... *sigh* I'll probably plop down the cash when everything is installed...


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## Second Skin Rep Jon (Oct 5, 2007)

Nice install, really like how you did the hood.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

frootloops said:


> Nice install, really like how you did the hood.


Haha, thanks again man! Here is a link to Frootloops thread where it shows his motor mat install and the model number for the clips I used:

http://secondskinaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3556


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

UPDATE TIME! Yesterday I had my installers at the shop put in my new window regulators and motors for the 2 front doors. I called the dealership and they said they usually replace them at about 120k miles, since I'm at 102k and going to seal up the doors with mat soon I figured I might as well. Total cost for both was 104 bucks shipped off eBay from AM auto parts. Here's some basic pics with the door panels off and stuff:


















So my question is this: How am I going to seal up that access hole where the rods to open the door go through (shown in the second pic). I can't gunk them up, but I want to seal it up as best I can.

I'm also running into a dilemma because the rubber track for the drivers side window is torn a bit and the window doesn't go all the way up. It also made it so there's a little extra pulled out on the outside, which basically creates a horrible funnel for air to quickly pass through. This drives me insane cuz it's so loud at higher speeds. The dealership quoted me 146 for a new rubber track/ weather stripping setup (it all comes together) and install. That seems pretty freaking steep if you ask me, but I can't really mat until that's taken care of since the rubber goes down in the doors! 

Suggestions appreciated!!! ^^^

Next up on the agenda was the installation of the CDA-9887. I didn't go gung ho like some of the guys on here since I figure I'll never see the harness again. Just used crimp caps and then wire tired them down nicely so they'll stay put. Ran the full speed ipod cable to the glovebox and taped up the extra length behind the deck with some electrical tape. Fit kit and wiring harness are Metra, I used the "custom" kit as opposed to the "premium" kit (7898 I think) because it looked better.

I really am impressed with this deck so far! I'll post a full review later when I get the rest of the system installed, but the ipod sounds AMAZING!! Seriously, I ripped everything to apple lossless using this procedure HERE, and have about 58gb of my 80gb Ipod Classic filled. I do think that the S/N ratio of CD is a bit higher than the ipod, which is why CD sounds "better" at the same volume. When I turned up the ipod volume 1 or 2 on the deck though, I couldn't really notice a huge difference. Maybe a little fuller bass and high treble (think cymbal ambiance) on the CD, but the lossless was seriously impressive!

Here's the only pic I have, forgot my camera and was pressed for time during the install since the shop closed at 7 and they wanted me out of the bay! 










Awesome!

Next up after my door dilemma is fixed is the installation of my Alpine PDX-5!!! woohoo!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

bump, any ideas on the rubber question posed above?


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

ZoNtO said:


> bump, any ideas on the rubber question posed above?


 Unfortunately Im not much help... you have to replace it. There are other places that sell bayley channel & all the rubber you need. Unfortunately Im not in the US so can't say exactly were.
Try to see if you can pick on out at a car recking yard, its a civic... surely theres one dumped down a back street somewere near your place??? (im not condoning theft  ).
Good work though, atleast your trying to be as thorourgh as possible.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Yeah I don't plan on ever selling the car, just driving it until it either blows up or I die, so I figure I want to do everything really thoroughly as I go. 

It's not going to be as impressive as some of these IASCA installs people post, but it will have a lot of attention paid to other details ya know? 

The run channels are 71 dollars from Honda, so basically it's just paying for labor. There's a local shop that gives our audio shop employees a discount on labor so it would be 43 bucks an hour there (one hour each door) plus the 140 for both channels which makes it 244 max. Said they'd discount more if the door panels were off already.

I think I'll just wait until summer is almost done to do that as I don't really have the funds right now.

PDX-5 going in tomorrow! Way excited!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Awesome! The PDX-5 is in now and I'm very happy with it thus far. I think I need to turn the sub amp gain way up though, it seems that at 7 on the subwoofer RCA the voltage isn't that high.

I put it under the driver seat since it never moves, the whole thing looks really clean. RCAs under the center console/parking brake plastic panelling.

And another gripe I have with Honda is that they use Molex connectors for the wiring to the doors. There is no room in the door jambs to run wiring through! :sigh:  So basically, we had to splice into the stock wiring and maybe over summer I'll get ambitious and do the window rubber channel and screw through the door and body to make my own door jambs...

Here's some pics:


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

double post


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## veloze (Jul 2, 2007)

Nice install. I think you got one helluva amp, it makes me want to go and get me one today to put in my 94 Accord.

1. What kind of components are you running for the front staging?

2. Are you running 2 or 3 way set-up? 

3. Active or passive?

4. Did you bridge the PDX-5?

I notice you connected the RCA's to the 4ch. Are these just for the fronts or are you running rear fill too. I don't see you connected a processor. Do you have one? BTW, what kind RCA's are those?

Keep us posted of your progress.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

_1. What kind of components are you running for the front staging?_

Older model of Infinity Reference 2 way comps. Whoever owned the car before me put them in running on the stock deck power, as well as Infinity Reference 6x9s in the back which was a nice plus! 

_2. Are you running 2 or 3 way set-up? _

2 way, 6.5" midbass in the door, tweeter in stock sail panel location. Sub is an Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 wired in Low Q mode in a ~1.5 ft^3 (gross) sealed box with about 1" of polyfill stapled to each internal side.

_3. Active or passive?_

passive at this point. Read above for why I couldn't try active right now even if I wanted to.... Stupid molex connectors for the door.

_4. Did you bridge the PDX-5?_

Nope, right now it's just spliced into factory wiring, so fronts and rears and the mono to the sub.

_I notice you connected the RCA's to the 4ch. Are these just for the fronts or are you running rear fill too. I don't see you connected a processor. Do you have one? _

In a way; it's the 9887 deck which can do most anything I would need to. 


_BTW, what kind RCA's are those?_

Rocketfish 8' RCA cables from the home audio section at Best Buy. LINKY There's been a few posts about these on the forum recently. I did a small write up about these cables in an RCA cable thread in the general DIY Mobile Audio forum just a few days ago.

_Keep us posted of your progress. _

Will do!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Dang I need to deaden my trunk, trunk lid, and rear deck!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Imprint calibration tomorrow!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Wahoo! So I went to the local shop today and used the Imprint Kit to calibrate my speakers! It was sweet cuz they only charged me 10 bucks for the whole ordeal too, which I was very happy about.

So for those of you that are wondering, if you calibrate Imprint for the driver side only, the mic positions are:

1. Head position
2. Center of back seat by headrests
3. Passenger side head position
4. Front left corner of driver seat
5. Front right corner of driver seat
6. Back right corner of driver seat

Here's two pictures showing the "Results" part of the program, I stored the Reference curve as Curve 1 and the Linear curve as Curve 2.

Curve 1 (Reference):










Curve 2 (Linear):










It sounds absolutely amazing, total difference over my own manual EQ and time alignment. I'll mess around with these two curves over the summer and recalibrate when I get my doors deadened and the like! Enjoy!


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Keep in mind that the "+15" subwoofer setting on Alpines is really "0", and anything less cuts the sub signal. You should set the gains from there, IMO.


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## SiliconX (May 1, 2008)

Really like your deadening install and pictures. I'm just starting out on my Civic Coupe, and that seems like the right place to start. I'd imagine my knuckles will look pretty much the same 

In regards to your clips and window issues, have you looked into getting OEM parts from HondaPartsDeals.com? Any replacement parts I need for my Civic, I usually get through them. Even with the shipping costs, it always comes out much cheaper.

Very nice amp. I was looking at the PDX-5 as well as i'd like to also put it under the driver's or passenger seat, and space down there is at quite a premium.


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## gsr22 (Jul 30, 2007)

ZoNtO said:


> _1. What kind of components are you running for the front staging?_
> 
> Older model of Infinity Reference 2 way comps. Whoever owned the car before me put them in running on the stock deck power, as well as Infinity Reference 6x9s in the back which was a nice plus!
> 
> ...



here you go molex isnt that bad http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=257


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Imprint tells you to turn the gain (or "subwoofer volume") down before running the microphone positions to give you an accurate reading. When I set my gains, I did them to +7 like I mentioned. When we ran imprint at the shop, we turned it down to 0 and now after running it it's back up to +7. Honestly for some songs I like +10 more, but 7 gives me a good blend on most songs. No it's not a street banger, but it's accurate and that's what I wanted.

The difference between Imprint and my stock sound (w/ my manual time alignment) is incredible! Imprint is sweet! I did notice the hiss that was introduced, and honestly I think I may turn down the gains on my fronts. I think with all the equalization that was induced, especially that dip you can see in my BEFORE shots above, the speakers are getting driven harder by the amp. That will help the sub blend a bit more at lower volumes since the highs won't overpower them.

With regards to the molex thing, that's all fine and dandy for a normal install, but I need to run two sets of 16 awg through. One for mids and one for tweets if I'm going to go active, so I'll probably end up just drilling a hole and putting a rubber grommet on either side just to run the speaker wire in. 

Very happy with everything right now!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Update today! Finally got around to lowering the gain on the fronts a little bit. Probably ended up settling on lowering by about the width of the slit in the gain knob and that helped quite a bit. I still think it might be a tad high or else my Infinity Reference comps are just blown or suck. I mean I guess they were being run off the head unit for who knows how long before I bought the car....

Sounds like some scratchy tweeter on a few songs that I can't get rid of, but gain is about dialed in so I'll keep working on it and update as I go.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

WOW! I forgot to update on my work from last Friday! Crazy how fast this week has gone!

Anywho, so before I drove out here to California, I wanted to use up the last of my 2nd roll of RAAMmat so I went to town on my trunk. Put a layer down on the rest of the quarter panel that I couldn't reach from the back seat area, the trunk floor, the wheel wells, and the trunk lid.

Since I was home now and didn't have paint surface preparer, I just used hot water and a little dish soap to prepare the metal. Used one rag for everything and then a 2nd clean rag to do the bottom again since that was the dirtiest.

Here's pictures!

BEFORE SHOTS:




























AND AFTER:











































Now here's the kicker advice for anyone with my same car or a similar one I suppose. In the back left driver side corner of the trunk there's a little emergency drain type thing with a rubber flap. I'm guessing this thing is there in case the trunk fills with water and it needs to get a lot out quickly or something. Anywho, so this badboy vibrated a TON! I tried a little bit of foam wrapped around certain parts but couldn't get it to shut up completely. So I went old school on the thing and just stuck an old kitchen sponge between the plastic grate and the flap so it would isolate them. Problem solved! 

Those same Chrysler clips that I used for the hood dampening worked well to replace a few lost ones in the trunk as well! I was very happy about that. They aren't the exact same size, but they'll hold snug and aren't hard to get out (which IMO is better since we take our panels off so much in this hobby). Look pretty slick too now the the stupid carpet isn't just falling down!

The only vibrations of ANY kind I can hear from the sub hitting outside the car are inside the trunk lid between the inner and outer layer. When I get a chance I'm going to try and wrap as much of the wire loomed stuff that runs in the little holes as I can with ensolite. Other than that I don't know what else would fix those rattles and since the inner layer of the trunk lid is welded to the outer, I'm pretty much at a stand still if the foam idea doesn't work. it's almost right behind the license plate area, but actually inside the lid... You wouldn't be able to tell if you didn't have me there pointing it out, but I'm going for perfection here or at least as close as I can while still being reasonable! haha

Next big project should be the doors, and I'll try to finish up my rear quarter panels by filling that huge cavity with expanding foam and then matting over the access holes and such there. Rear deck last and I should be set besides the panel rattles that I'll fight with for the next couple months after. Man this sound deadening stuff is addicting!


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Well I did cut my finger on metal on the trunk deadening project (see the previous page), but my body was subjected to a much greater torment this time around. Since I've been so used to winter, I've forgotten how to properly prevent my skin from being damaged by the sun. In my state of euphoria while deadening in the glorious glow of the sun for three hours, my legs were being TORCHED! 










Moral of the story: It's summer now, wear sunscreen during car projects! :blush:


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Awesome! So next up (simply because of my lack of funds from my bunked summer sales adventure) will be building another false floor for the trunk since the stock board got waterlogged over the past 8 years and is basically worthless! So that will be free at my dad's work with their scrap wood, he said we could use baltic birch and lacquer it so it's more waterproof. 

After that, I'll be working with my dad and getting some ideas from Mr. Marv to build an enclosure in the back left (driver side) corner of the car that's a lot smaller. That would be of many gloriousness!

And at the same time, getting some more cheap thin foam to wrap around the cables going into my trunk lid to permanently eliminate the minute rattles that remain.

I figure since funds are tight and I'm in college I can wait on speakers and the like until next year, and then I'll deaden my doors right before winter this year. 

Any other suggestions guys for cheap, fun projects I could work on this summer?


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

hows the difference when you did the floor? any improvement over civic's noisy interior?


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

There is nothing you can do about the civic noisy interior. Possibly the wheel wells and firewall, but the biggest problem in the Honda civic is the flimsy firewall letting in every last tick in the engine compartment through into the cabin. After that, tires.

IMO a fully deadened floor, walls, roof, and trunk wont have nearly the improvement the investment dictates (trunk will if the seats are ever folded down) without taking care of tire noise and the engine noise.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

I already did the trunk on my 1997 Civic Coupe and next I was planning on adding some foam under the plastic rear deck covering to stop it from rattling. Then I was going to purchase some components for the doors and deaden the doors while swapping out the coaxials for components. Lastly, I was going to do the floor, but if it isn't going to make that much of a difference, I will skip it.


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

Yeah I still have quite a bit of tire noise, but engine noise isn't that bad after doing the deadener and the motor mat. The rear deck and doors are my project for spring break if I can do it then.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Very nice so far, can you post a pic of where you route your power when you get to that far? I'd like to see...


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## ZoNtO (Sep 20, 2005)

I didn't see that part of the install (long story).  But from what I remember I *think* that it's routed up the left side under the trim by the door, then travels across to the passenger side up when it reaches the firewall area. Whoever owned the car before me ran their wires on that side so I think that's what the guys used.

I was so sick of being in my car I just had the other guys in my shop do it!


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## pezdacandyboi (Aug 29, 2009)

You ever get that figured out? I'm having the same dilemma =/


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