# How much Vibration Damper do we need?



## MetricMuscle

I'm surprised this isn't already a topic here.

I've read the Sound Deadener Showdown page and understand the concept of how to go about keeping noise down in a vehicle. He suggests around 25% coverage of Vibration Damper to quell resonance but I routinely see very highly regarded installers here and else where do 100% or multiple layers even.

So, what gives? Is it more difficult and expensive to use MLV and Reflectix or CCF and do the job correctly or is it a "more can't hurt" philosophy or.........
Why the total coverage?

Is the Sound Deadener Showdown flawed?


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## Hanatsu

I always deaden 100% when I'm doing doors, even dual layers sometimes directly behind the speaker and a layer foam on top of that 

Everyone I know, including the shop where I part-timed at always applied 100% coverage.


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## MetricMuscle

Hanatsu said:


> I always deaden 100% when I'm doing doors, even dual layers sometimes directly behind the speaker and a layer foam on top of that
> 
> Everyone I know, including the shop where I part-timed at always applied 100% coverage.


100% deaden how? With a vibration damper like Dynamat or such? 

Did they use any MLV, Mass Loaded Vinyl?


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## Hanatsu

MetricMuscle said:


> 100% deaden how? With a vibration damper like Dynamat or such?
> 
> Did they use any MLV, Mass Loaded Vinyl?


Yeah "dynamat" damper. Never used MLV, neither did they at the shop as far as I know. Not even sure what MLV is, don't think it's common in Sweden.

I've dampened cars with CLD (the Dynamat anti-vibration stuff), asphalt-butyl + heat gun (only floor), open cell foam (absorber) and closed cell foam (isolator).


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## Alrojoca

If you want to save money, no need for 100 % the key is to deaden the inner door inside around the driver besides the outer door behind the driver, rather than make the inner door side look pretty, for picture posting and showing off.

Sometimes it is just easier to place CLD simply because it is a peel and stick deal and it is faster than, cutting, fitting, velcro and dealing with the extra time placing CCF and MLV. If you look locally you may find MLV and CCF for under $3 a Sft being cheaper than good CLD

A lot depends on the type of CLD you use too, and how much power you plan to use to drive the door mid drivers, in some cases you may need metal bracing to hold the outer door if a lot of power is used. 

Another issue with doubling CLD layers in my experience was that my deep bass was gone, I had to reverse the phase for my sub, and on the doors I just had more hi midbass instead of tighter mid deeper bass


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## JVD240

A lot of time 100% coverage is used to seal in addition to preventing panel resonance.

More coverage certainly doesn't hurt performance. There is a point of diminishing returns, however, which is what I believe Don at SDS is getting at with his 25% number. He sells the products; the fact that he says 25% is adequate says a lot.


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## Alrojoca

You can use peel and stick ensolite to seal gaps, galvanized flash metal is cheaper on larger holes and many make the mistake of putting the CLD on the side facing the Door Card instead of the inside where it is more effective. To seal the metal and the door yes CLD but ensolite peel and stick may be cheaper, aluminum tape even cheaper as long as butyl rope , caulk rope or duct seal is used between the sheet metal and the door when sealing large holes.

Cheaper material= equals more time but it is as effective

Costly CLD= less time and pro shops and pro installers are happy to sell more of that too rather than dealing with the heavy MLV and foam cutting time etc.

It is better to save the CLD for parts of the door card, although I put pieces of CCF in parts that over lap plastic on the door card and can rattle.

Also only MLV blocks road noise more effectively than the CLD


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## JVD240

Alrojoca said:


> You can use peel and stick ensolite to seal gaps, galvanized flash metal is cheaper on larger holes and many make the mistake of putting the CLD on the side facing the Door Card instead of the inside where it is more effective. To seal the metal and the door yes CLD but ensolite peel and stick may be cheaper, aluminum tape even cheaper as long as butyl rope , caulk rope or duct seal is used between the sheet metal and the door when sealing large holes.
> 
> Cheaper material= equals more time but it is as effective
> 
> Costly CLD= less time and pro shops and pro installers are happy to sell more of that too rather than dealing with the heavy MLV and foam cutting time etc.
> 
> It is better to save the CLD for parts of the door card, although I put pieces of CCF in parts that over lap plastic on the door card and can rattle.
> 
> Also only MLV blocks road noise more effectively than the CLD


Deadening the inside vs. outside of the inner door skin is no different. CLD adds MASS to a panel. That's all. 

If you're saying deaden the inside of the outer skin, then yes. Do that too.

Often MLV is cost prohibitive because of the limited availability and cost of shipping. 

When I said seal the door I meant the front from back waves of the *assumed* midbass/midrange driver. Most CLD is much more rigid than ensolite and would be better at this. The added mass will also not hurt... although it will not be as proficient as MLV at blocking sound.


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## Alrojoca

JVD240 said:


> Deadening the inside vs. outside of the inner door skin is no different. CLD adds MASS to a panel. That's all.
> 
> If you're saying deaden the inside of the outer skin, then yes. Do that too.
> 
> Often MLV is cost prohibitive because of the limited availability and cost of shipping.
> 
> When I said seal the door I meant the front from back waves of the *assumed* midbass/midrange driver. Most CLD is much more rigid than ensolite and would be better at this. The added mass will also not hurt... although it will not be as proficient as MLV at blocking sound.




Regardless, I much rather have sound waves bouncing on CLD covered metal than just solid metal, the response may be be better. 

If quality CLD is used it should be beneficial if roof peel and seal is used then no benefit other than adding mass to metal and minimize rattles.

Sure why not, simply cut 3/4 " wide pieces of CLD to seal the gaps between sheet metal and the door. Still it just takes more time that put a whole sheet over. Then if service is needed to the door, the CLD takes more time to remove than window sealing CCF tape, ensolite or even Aluminum tape. Besides the cost to put new CLD over again


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## MetricMuscle

For those who have not read this showdown.

Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Ill update when I get home, but in my testing, 100% coverage is past the point of diminishing returns vs 25%.


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## Thumper26

agreed with what everyone here has said. when i started competing, I was asking someone if the overkill is worth it, and he summed it up pretty well when he said if you want to win, and the extra money gives you a 10% improvement, that 10% may be all that's needed. Looking at how close scores are at finals shows that. So, if you're an enthusiast and are on a budget, then focus on key areas. If you're chasing a 6' trophy, then make friends with someone that has a sheet of aluminum laying around:



1/2 closed cell gasketing covered the edges of the openings, and the aluminum is bolted to the car, then the edges covered with alpha damp.


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## Alrojoca

I was told MLV could be used to cover large holes, I was also told to treat or cover the MLV because the MLV could have some unwanted effect on the Back wave, that is extra work time and material involved

I guess everybody does what works for them, there is no standard or best way to do it.

Sometimes cheaper materials end up costing more in the long run.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

JVD240 said:


> Deadening the inside vs. outside of the inner door skin is no different. CLD adds MASS to a panel. That's all.
> 
> If you're saying deaden the inside of the outer skin, then yes. Do that too.
> 
> Often MLV is cost prohibitive because of the limited availability and cost of shipping.
> 
> When I said seal the door I meant the front from back waves of the *assumed* midbass/midrange driver. Most CLD is much more rigid than ensolite and would be better at this. The added mass will also not hurt... although it will not be as proficient as MLV at blocking sound.


Cld only adding mass to a panel is not at all correct, and is misinformation at best. Maybe with the cheapest products that's closer to the truth, but its not correct even then.


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## Alrojoca

glad that adding good CLD does not only add mass but also improves response and that was confirmed


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## JVD240

Alrojoca said:


> glad that adding good CLD does not only add mass but also improves response and that was confirmed


My mistake for misspeaking and simplifying to that degree. There is more to it than that. 

TOOSTUBBORN, I have read many threads, including yours, on CLD. My understanding was that adding treatments, like CLD, inside an enclosure(in this case a door) provides very little benefit. Perhaps I misunderstand this aspect. If you put CLD on either side of a panel does it not have the same effect? Thanks.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

That I agree with, simply because the vibration caused by a speaker in a door, is far greater than CLD's can control. Doors really have to be braced well, and then damped, if you want to completely get rid of resonance there.

As far as which side of the metal the CLD goes on, it doesn't matter if your only putting it on one side. Although, if you can put it on both sides, I think there is merit there. In fact, I feel that doing this is likely better than double coverage on one side. This is something I'll be testing.


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## papasin

In my car, I have about 25-50% coverage of CLD, 100% CCF on floor and trunk (1/4") over the CLD and (1/8") MLV over that. Doors have about 50-75% CLD, 100% (1/8") CCF, and (1/8") MLV.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL has heard my car and can give his $0.02, but I am pretty happy with the formula and results. My system can get quite loud...but you wouldn't necessarily be able to tell from the outside.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Let me put papasin's post into perspective. How many civic have you heard that can take monstrous 8" midbass and dual 12" subs, at full tilt, with no audible rattles or resonance?

Of course, he has kick panels, but like I said before, no amount of CLD alone is enough to fix speakers installed in doors. They HAVE to be braced and damped.


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## papasin

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Let me put papasin's post into perspective. How many civic have you heard that can take monstrous 8" midbass and dual 12" subs, at full tilt, with no audible rattles or resonance?
> 
> Of course, he has kick panels, but like I said before, no amount of CLD alone is enough to fix speakers installed in doors. They HAVE to be braced and damped.


I used to have midbassess in the doors. 










But IMHO, one of the drawbacks in soundproofing is that the smallest rattles became more apparent.  No matter what I did with the doors, there was always a little something. For example, what are you going to do if the door lock latch/mechanism is rattling or making a tiny clicking noise? Putty? Ok, then how is it going to click to lock?? So I decided to go kicks...and I will never look back.

Perhaps the only time I would put mid basses in the doors is if they were in fiberglass enclosures, like Gary Summers (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...llery/139236-mercedes-midbass-enclosures.html) or like this Accord JT finished not too long ago (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...30813454142.324080.75484824141&type=1&theater).


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## Alrojoca

JVD240 said:


> My mistake for misspeaking and simplifying to that degree. There is more to it than that.


Hey, my mistake too since I thought putting CLD on the inside would be better.

Toosts2fail has provided great information and testing that helped many of us make the right choices and avoid mistakes in future installs.


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## Fade2Black93

My Camaro has 100% fiberglass doors inner and outer skin. Does this effect the sound in the same way as metal doors do? I'm a noob to deadening, but should i put some lets say Dynamat extreme on the inside of the outer skin? Or on the side under the door panel? Way to much road noise!!!! Dont even get me started about exhaust noise inside the car. There is no sealed off section for a trunk just a rear cargo area in the back with a rear hatch. Thank u. Marc


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## Alrojoca

Fade2Black93 said:


> My Camaro has 100% fiberglass doors inner and outer skin. Does this effect the sound in the same way as metal doors do? I'm a noob to deadening, but should i put some lets say Dynamat extreme on the inside of the outer skin? Or on the side under the door panel? Way to much road noise!!!! Dont even get me started about exhaust noise inside the car. There is no sealed off section for a trunk just a rear cargo area in the back with a rear hatch. Thank u. Marc


Dynamat is a good CLD, lighter and effective, I would be the wrong person to adviceyou if you should add any since your doors are made of fiberglass, and I would not know if CLD bonds well to fiberglass and if there will be issues with heat water etc.

Maybe few tiles maybe 4by5" should help to reduce the vibrations on the outer door behind the midbass driver and also try to focus on the sealing the openings on the inner door. Then maybe some camper seal closed cell foam form Home Depot between the ring/spacer/baffle and the door also the speaker and the ring spacer, or use rope caulk or Duct sealing Caulk instead of close cell foam. 

For the noise You need mass, MLV and it has to be decoupled with Closed Cell foam. Here is the SDS link. A lot to read but it will be a start for you to know what to do in your car treating the floors and doors.
Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

And here the how to for each section http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-tos


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## Mahna Mahna

I've already laid down Dynamat Xtreme and Raammat BXT covering about 80% of the interior.

For the next step should I put Ensolite or Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top for the floors and doors?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

You don't need ensolite with luxury liner pro.


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## mires

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> You don't need ensolite with luxury liner pro.


I thought it didn't come with the CCF layer anymore. I'll have to check out the site.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

I dont know if they changed it. I know regular luxury liner doesn't come with it.


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## mires

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> I dont know if they changed it. I know regular luxury liner doesn't come with it.


Correct. I just checked the site and apparently it was the regular Luxury Liner that was changed back in 2010. The Luxury Liner Pro however does still have the CCF layer. I'm just not sure if the pro would be too thick for me or if it would be worth the extra money.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

It is very thick, I don't remember what the website says, but my llp is about half an inch thick.


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## papasin

The CCF+MLV bonded material I've used from Super Soundproofing: SOUNDPROOFING n’ More Soundproofing! This is the Famous Super Soundproofing is 1/4" CCF + 1/8" MLV (approx total thickness of 3/8"). I believe LLP is similar.

IME, LLP or the 3/8" fused CCF/MLV works well for floors, provided you leave about an inch gap at the edges so that trim panels can snap back on.

For the doors, I went with 1/8" CCF + 1/8" MLV (i.e. Ensloite + regular Luxury Liner). In MY car, the extra 1/8" instead of using fused CCF/MLV (i.e. LLP) made a huge difference, as this was needed to allow my door card to be able to snap back in. Some areas, I trimmed the Ensolite off, as it was that tight of a fit. YMMV, I believe the CCF is definitely good to do in conjunction with MLV as an isolator, but if you can only fit 1/8", I would go with MLV as the barrier as it is more important in stopping airborne noise. My $0.02 FWIW.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

^completely agreed. I'll measure my llp tomorrow, but it definitely seems thicker than 3/8". I'll post the measurement tomorrow.


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## mires

papasin said:


> The CCF+MLV bonded material I've used from Super Soundproofing: SOUNDPROOFING n’ More Soundproofing! This is the Famous Super Soundproofing is 1/4" CCF + 1/8" MLV (approx total thickness of 3/8"). I believe LLP is similar.


That does look like a good deal if shipping is reasonable. Thanks for the heads up.


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## papasin

mires said:


> That does look like a good deal if shipping is reasonable. Thanks for the heads up.


For my first order, I had them ship (helps they are in CA). But for my second and subsequent orders, I happened to be in the area and just picked it up direct from their warehouse.


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## mires

papasin said:


> For my first order, I had them ship (helps they are in CA). But for my second and subsequent orders, I happened to be in the area and just picked it up direct from their warehouse.


You West coasters have all the luck


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## papasin

mires said:


> You West coasters have all the luck



A shipment from SDS would have been brutal. 

What I suggest is checking local places if you can, some industrial carpet shops stock them. I found a place in SF that also had it but the prices were not as good, and soundproofing.org is also really well stocked and had all kinds of treatments. A few of the guys there were quite knowledgeable especially for home treatments...but some of the principles aren't entirely dissimilar for car audio.


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## Mahna Mahna

So would Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and Ensolite on the doors be the way to go?

Is Luxury Liner Pro better than Ensolite for the floor? Are they the same of does Ensolite perform a different function.

Would Ensolite in the dash help as well?

Thanks

Good to know about trimming the LLP...didn't think of that.


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## mires

Mahna Mahna said:


> So would Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and Ensolite on the doors be the way to go?
> 
> Is Luxury Liner Pro better than Ensolite for the floor? Are they the same of does Ensolite perform a different function.
> 
> Would Ensolite in the dash help as well?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Good to know about trimming the LLP...didn't think of that.


Ensolite is the same thing as the CCF layer that is attached to the luxury liner pro. Making it so that you don't have to perform that extra step. Ideally you want the layer of CCF and then the layer of MLV on top of it everywhere. They do 2 completely different things but work in conjunction. In short, just do the Luxury liner pro in both the floor and the doors for best results.


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## papasin

mires said:


> In short, just do the Luxury liner pro in both the floor and the doors for best results.



Caveat is for the doors if it will fit.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

There's a place in socal that says they ship mlv for free, just waking up, give me an hour or so and ill get all the info up.


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## seafish

I am going to buy my MLV from these guys--

Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing Material for Walls, Floors, Ceilings, No Oder, Virgin Material - Trademark Soundproofing

It is made from virgin vinyl, so there is NO smell (they readily sent me a small sample when I asked them to) and it is available in diffrent weights and also with a PSA backing if you want it. 
Good prices and Free shipping too.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

^ that was the company I was talking about with free shipping. 

I'm headed home now, ill measure the llp in about 20 mins.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

The llp I have measures between 7/16"-1/2" thick.


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## james2266

seafish said:


> I am going to buy my MLV from these guys--
> 
> Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing Material for Walls, Floors, Ceilings, No Oder, Virgin Material - Trademark Soundproofing
> 
> It is made from virgin vinyl, so there is NO smell (they readily sent me a small sample when I asked them to) and it is available in diffrent weights and also with a PSA backing if you want it.
> Good prices and Free shipping too.


Thanks for this link. Free shipping is like gold when it comes to ordering mlv. They won't ship to Canada as usual but I should be able to get it close enough to here to be able to pick it up again. I don't know if I will need anymore but it is nice to know of a place I can get it fairly cheaply. I pulled all of the pieces out of my Rav4 before I traded it in. They have a good layer of dust on them now (fiberglass and mdf ) and they were cut to fit my Rav4 but I should be able to reuse a large chunk of it. 

Also, thanks Richard for the mention of leaving about an inch around all mounting points. Where were you when I was putting it in my Rav4. Man, I had a helluva time getting the seats back in and I had to do some serious cutting after to even think about getting the beauty panels back on the seat tracks. I will keep this in mind if I do indeed end up doing the Lexus up. I wasn't going to this time as it is so much more quiet but there is a growing part of me that keeps thinking 'what if?' and i do have the mlv sitting here too. I would just need ccf again as the stuff I yanked from the Rav4 didn't come out too nice. I'm probably alot better off with new stuff especially for the price and I think 1/4 will make a diff. over 1/8 on the floor too. Is it necessary to bond the ccf and mlv together when going on a flat floor? I didn't on the last vehicle but am wondering if the performance would be better with them bonded together or if it matters really?


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## Mahna Mahna

I have Dynamat Xtreme in the trunk and back half of car, B-Quiet on the front half of the car and doors (inner and outer). Got about 80% total coverage

Picked us some Ensolite for the doors and behind the door speakers. 

Also, ordered some SS Luxury Liner Pro for the firewall, floor and behind the rear seats.

Lastly, picked up a roll of Boom Mat Under Carpet (like LL Pro) for cheap in case I need extra noise block.  This stuff is 3/8" thick and comes in a 48" x 54" roll. 

Am I missing anything?


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## MetricMuscle

So, if we attempt to source MLV locally, are there any keywords to look for or to avoid? Are there types of MLV that aren't what we want for AutoHiFi?
What weight do we want? This is expressed by lbs per square foot or yard I do believe.

What about ordering carpet that has MLV bonded to it? I see this as an option from some automotive carpet vendors but wonder what they are actually putting on there. A layer of CCF or reflectix would still need to go down first though.

My plan was to try and hang a piece of MLV on the inside of the door cavity, on the inner panel. I would still need to decouple it with CCF but this should have less stuff like wires or rods to deal with not to mention no door card thickness interference. Is there something about this idea I'm not taking into account?

Is neoprene CCF? Do I just need to look at it and see what the cells look like?


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## seafish

MetricMuscle said:


> So, if we attempt to source MLV locally, are there any keywords to look for or to avoid? Are there types of MLV that aren't what we want for AutoHiFi?
> What weight do we want? This is expressed by lbs per square foot or yard I do believe.
> 
> What about ordering carpet that has MLV bonded to it? I see this as an option from some automotive carpet vendors but wonder what they are actually putting on there. A layer of CCF or reflectix would still need to go down first though.
> 
> My plan was to try and hang a piece of MLV on the inside of the door cavity, on the inner panel. I would still need to decouple it with CCF but this should have less stuff like wires or rods to deal with not to mention no door card thickness interference. Is there something about this idea I'm not taking into account?
> 
> Is neoprene CCF? Do I just need to look at it and see what the cells look like?


The only type of MLV that you might want to avoid is stuff made from recycled vinyl as opposed to virgin vinyl...recycled vinyl has an odor that lingers that you might find objectional when used in the enclosed, heated space of a vehicle. That being said, most less expensive, home construction use mlv IS made from recycled vinyl, so you will have to decide for yourself whether or not it bothers you. The link I posted above is defintely made from virgin vinyl and has free shiping, though you do need to be able to buy at leat a 100 sf roll. 

In vehicle applications, most people use the 1#/sf MLV, though you could perhaps add a second layer of mlv, even better with some foam in between the two layers, if you had an exceptionally noisy vehicle or in select areas, but afterwrds you will have a particularly HEAVY vehicle...lol. Anopther problem with using more or thicker mlv or layers, is getting all of the car parts to go back together with the thicker layer. That is why one layer of 1/8" CCF with another 1/8" layer of 1# mlv, seems to work the best/easiest in vehicles. Of ocurse, do not forget the minimum 25% CLD coverage befoer those layers.

Generally ANY type of multi layer, laminated material is substantially more expensive then installing the individual layers your self, and is not necesasrily that much less work as long as you are in there anyway.

CCF is any closed cell foam, though it does come in differnt types and densities, Most people use "ensolite" which is what some yoga mats or sleeping pads are made from. I like the firmness and quality of what SDS sells, and shipping is NOT a killer like with MLV.


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## Alrojoca

Some CCF do not compress enough to put the panels back on, there are many types of CCF


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## steveholt

ive always had good results with dynamat


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## country_hick

MLV was designed to replace even thinner lead. Lead is easily applied. I would however suggest buying a pair of gloves to throw away after you use them to apply the lead with. The advantage of lead is you can often find it locally at a hardware or roofing supplies store.

This is a compilation of information regarding soundproofing ideas and application techniques. While it is not perfect it covers a lot of ground. This was put together because my diesel truck has a loud engine. I never considered the radio requiring this kind of treatment.
Ideas to consider when soundproofing your truck. - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

CCF can remove some sound, although not a huge amount. See where this was applied and tested in the link below.
citroen cx insulation

Make your own lead foam sandwich.
TheDieselStop.Com Forums: Sound proofing and Sound Barriers

I made 108 ft^2 of soundproofing mat by sandwiching:
- "8 pound" carpet underlay,
- 1 pound per ft^2 lead sheet,
- "8 pound" carpet underlay and
- 3 mil vapour barrier.
I used contact cement to hold everything together. (1 US Gallon will make more than 108 ft^2.) The soundproofing mat is about 5/8" thick, which is about the maximum you can have and still get everything together." (continue reading on the link above for more installation details)

Is there a big difference from dynomat to something like peel n' seal? - Page 3 - Car Audio Classifieds

there are a few tutorials out there for proper placement of sound deadening but it's really not all that necessary if you follow two simple rules.
1. Only 25% of a panel needs to be treated. So a door that measures 6 sq. ft. should theoretically need no more than 1.5 sq. ft. of actual sound deadener (not Peel & Seal).
2. Placement of the material should be in the center most of the panel. No need to treat reinforced or welded areas, just the flattest areas of panels need it. Now why only 25% coverage you may ask? That tends to be the best bang for your buck in terms of achieving great results.

For instance, 50% panel coverage will typically increase the sound lose 2-3 decibels over 25% coverage. And 100% coverage will net another 2-3 decibels over 50% coverage. So the overall sound loss difference between 25% coverage and 100% coverage is typically 4-6 decibels. Quite often it's less than that.

Also when you just go all out and go 100% coverage, you (the typical person) tend to cover up and treat areas that do not need it, thus wasting product, time, and most importantly... money.

(That means there is some benefit to complete coverage but it may not be worth spending that much more money for those gains.)


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## ilikepinktacos

Till the panels don't fit, and your doors don't close!


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## rxonmymind

It gets confusing for me when on one side people suggests only 25% then in the next breath people advise having a foam layer or ccf on top of the "dynamat" as a decoupler prior to installing mlv on top so as not to have the transmission of sound from the sheet metal come directly through the mlv. So it seems to me what people are suggesting is 
25% vibration dampener of your choice
100% ccf
100% mlv. 
Is this correct?


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## seafish

rxonmymind said:


> It gets confusing for me when on one side people suggests only 25% then in the next breath people advise having a foam layer or ccf on top of the "dynamat" as a decoupler prior to installing mlv on top so as not to have the transmission of sound from the sheet metal come directly through the mlv. So it seems to me what people are suggesting is
> 25% vibration dampener of your choice
> 100% ccf
> 100% mlv.
> Is this correct?


This is correct…the CLD is to reduce panel resonance, the CCF is to prevent vibration transmission by isolation/decoupling and the MLV is to prevent sound transmission with density. 

One CAN use more then 25% CLD coverage, but its effects beyond that are not necessarily cost effective. Using LESS then 100% coverage of CCF and MLV is just not effective.


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