# Dodge Ram install thread



## ClinesSelect

I’ve lost track of how many different installs I have done on this truck but I thought it might fun to put together an install log this time. 

The vehicle is a 2003 Dodge Ram Quad Cab










It had been a few months since I ripped out all of wiring and started fresh so I figured it was time to strip it and start over….again. 

Equipment:

Head unit: Alpine CDA-9835 with the SIR-ALP
Processor: PPI DCX-730
Tweeters: LPG 25NFA 
Midrange: SEAS Nextel W15LY001
Midbass: Peerless XLS 830491
Amplifiers: Two Eclipse XA4000 and a RE 35.1d
Subwoofer: TBD

Under the hood the OEM ground wires were replaced with 4 AWG and then the Big 3 was completed using 1/0 AWG (and yes I realize that this is complete overkill). 

Every inch of wire installed was covered with Techflex and the ends were secured with adhesive shrink tubing. 










Stinger Expert battery terminals were used. A mounting plate for the two ANL fuse holders, one for the B+ cable and one for the Big 3, was fabricated from 16g sheet metal, painted black and then secured to the battery tray. The B+ cable goes through the firewall and is protected by a rubber grommet. 










The Big 3 cable follows the same route as the OEM wiring from the alternator. 










Moving inside, additional sound deadening was added to the existing materials. The entire interior is covered in mat and Ensolite.





































Next was fabrication of an amp rack which will be attached to the rear cab wall. There are two vents in the back of the cab, one was covered up but one is left open. An amp will be mounted over the slot in the wood however the bottom of the slot is open to allow air pressure to escape when you close the doors.


















Fiberglass was applied around the cut out for extra strength. T-nuts installed.










On the XA4000 there are two strips of faux carbon fiber so we will use that as a bit of theme. The amp rack is covered in carbon fiber and, although it is very difficult to see in the pictures, the Techflex is also carbon fiber. 

Completed and wired amp rack. 










All of the wiring is bundled and secured to the floor with self drilling metal screws. This is under the rear seat so carpet will hide the wires and the seat will keep them from being stepped on. All of the equipment is attached with cap screws so an allen wrench is needed to remove them. 

You can see the “tunnel” under the first amp. That is Ensolite on the back wall. 




















The B+ cable, with carbon fiber Techflex, is secured to the floor also and off to the side so it is not underfoot.


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## ClinesSelect

The LPG 25NFA are mounted in the A-pillars. The mounting cup was secured and then the pillar was painted to match the OEM color.










At first I flushed mounted them but then decided they were a little too off axis. To push the tweeters a little away from the windshield, a MDF filler block was made and it will be fiberglassed in place. 


















On to the doors, the rear doors were covered in mat and Ensolite. The speaker mounting hole had screen put over it before the mat was applied since there will not be any rear fill.










After enlarging the OEM 6x9 mounting location on the front doors, MDF baffles are fabricated and sanded smooth. 










Bolt holes to secure them to the door are drilled and countersunk and then the baffles are coated with resin to protect them from the elements. I have never had any water get into the doors but a little overkill never hurt.










Bolted to the door. Door is covered in multiple layers of RAAMmat BXT inside and out. 


















Non hardening modeling clay is used between the baffle and door. eDead is then attached to the edge of the baffle since it is more flexible than RAAMmat. 










Time for Ensolite.


















Each speaker wire is color coded and matched to a chart. Stinger 12 AWG was used (more overkill).



























I still need to finish the kick panels, decide which sub to use, build an enclosure for it, put the truck back together and then detail everything but this is a decent start.


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## newtitan

NICE wiring job, whoa, I feel bad about mine--lol


so you removed your rear seatbelt all together?

and please do tell what sub woofer console did you choose lol 

and you really must have shaved a ton of the inner door panel for such a large baffle? VERY VERY NICE!!!!

im patiently awaiting to see how yo mounted the w15's im still working on getting that front piece to look stock someway somehow lol, or did you go kicks?

you seriously need to take a nice 3 day drive to marvs bbq, you and audionutz can swap ultimate ram install stories


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## Mless5

Too nice, too clean. Excellent installation!


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## ClinesSelect

newtitan said:


> NICE wiring job, whoa, I feel bad about mine--lol
> 
> 
> so you removed your rear seatbelt all together?
> 
> and please do tell what sub woofer console did you choose lol
> 
> and you really must have shaved a ton of the inner door panel for such a large baffle? VERY VERY NICE!!!!
> 
> im patiently awaiting to see how yo mounted the w15's im still working on getting that front piece to look stock someway somehow lol, or did you go kicks?
> 
> you seriously need to take a nice 3 day drive to marvs bbq, you and audionutz can swap ultimate ram install stories


I took out the middle seat belt because no one ever sits there. There are still two seat belts for the rear seats. I bought a pair of the TC OEM10s and a AA Avalanche so I am deciding between those two choices. The Nextels are going in the kicks. 

Oh...and I would love to go to Marv's BBQ to see all the great installs and meet everyone  



Mless5 said:


> Too nice, too clean. Excellent installation!


Thanks for the compliments, both of you. I appreciate it.


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## fredridge

Looks ok, but really looks like you need more practice. If you want I will drop my XB off and let you try and see if you can do better 

Awesome job. I definitely need to get some tech flex. I am thinking of going red, because of the power cable and some of the TRD under hood pieces are red.

You do fantastic work with great attention to detail


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## lucas569

super clean!


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## unpredictableacts

mmmmm..... avalanche( Homer Simpson Voice.)


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## ws6 beat

how much was the deadening and ensolite ? great job puts mine to shame


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## CobaltKicker06

None of that sheet metal sleeves are needed, except maybe for the engine compartment, seems like a waste of money. Clean Install, though.


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## metanium

Very nice. I started taking pictures of my install on Saturday, so I can put up an install log. I will try to get mine up in the next day or 2. Oh yeah, it's also an '03 Ram QC.


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## B&K

Your wiring makes me feel like I am a bit lazy. Your install looks super and I am sure will sound as good as it looks.


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## Boostedrex

Great looking install so far! I'll be looking foward to seeing the a-pillars when they're finished as well as the sub enclosure. By the way, OEM 10's FTW!! Where would you put the box for those though?


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## ClinesSelect

Thanks again for the kind words  



ws6 beat said:


> how much was the deadening and ensolite ? great job puts mine to shame


I had already installed deadening so I just needed one more roll of RAAMmat for this install. I bought six yards of Ensolite (you can never have too much Ensolite). All of it was purchased from Rick's site.

RAAMaudio



Boostedrex said:


> Great looking install so far! I'll be looking foward to seeing the a-pillars when they're finished as well as the sub enclosure. By the way, OEM 10's FTW!! Where would you put the box for those though?


You can fit everything from three 10s to two 12s to a single 15 in the center console if you run it to the front of the rear seats. And you can still use the OEM armrest. This is an enclosure for two RL-p 12. It bolts up to the stock mounting location and the subs are downfired when the enclosure is installed.


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## Boostedrex

Very slick. I never thought about that. I still vote for the OEM 10's.  I just ordered one the other day and I can't wait to install it.


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## ClinesSelect

Except the Avalanche has the carbon fiber dust cap so it will match the Techflex   

I installed the RE amp and bought some 1" MDF with the intention of going with the TC10s so that is probably what will end up in there.


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## rekd0514

Wow you are competion ready with that install. Perfect job!


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## shinjohn

Very clean, nice and meticulous install. Great job on everything. Looking forward to seeing the final result!


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## Boostedrex

ClinesSelect said:


> Except the Avalanche has the carbon fiber dust cap so it will match the Techflex
> 
> I installed the RE amp and bought some 1" MDF with the intention of going with the TC10s so that is probably what will end up in there.


But won't the enclosure be down firing anyway? So the carbon dustcap wouldn't be visible. Not to mention that every review I've heard of the OEM 10's has been great. It's almost a shame to hide that gorgeous woven cone of theirs too though.


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## slaterbj

newtitan said:


> and you really must have shaved a ton of the inner door panel for such a large baffle? VERY VERY NICE!!!!


I just picked up a Ram (2005) also, and I am wondering about the spacer width. Will I be ok with a 3/4" baffle for a 6.5" driver? I can also use a 1/2" baffle if I have to. I haven't had the door panel off yet. I have been concentrating on gathering parts before I started tearing into it.

Any information is appreciated!
Thanks


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## vwtoby

where did you get the techflex from?


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## Charger R/T

that is an awesome install so far.. I love how clean it is. 

Could you post how much Techflex you used and what sizes.. You sold me on using it and now i just need to know where and how much and what sizes worked well for you... 

Thanks in advance.


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## ClinesSelect

slaterbj said:


> I just picked up a Ram (2005) also, and I am wondering about the spacer width. Will I be ok with a 3/4" baffle for a 6.5" driver? I can also use a 1/2" baffle if I have to. I haven't had the door panel off yet. I have been concentrating on gathering parts before I started tearing into it.
> 
> Any information is appreciated!
> Thanks


Using a 3/4" baffle you can fit a driver with a mounting depth up to 3.75" and it will not hit the window. I did shave down the inside of the door somewhat but not a ton. 



Charger R/T said:


> that is an awesome install so far.. I love how clean it is.
> 
> Could you post how much Techflex you used and what sizes.. You sold me on using it and now i just need to know where and how much and what sizes worked well for you...
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I used 1/2" for the 1/0 AWG and 3/8" for everything else. It was 8 feet from the firewall to the rear cab wall for each cable/speaker wire/RCA that needed to be covered plus whatever you use under the hood and near the amps. I ended buying 4 rolls of 3/8" and 2 rolls of 1/2" which was more than enough. I bought it from partsexpress.

It expands to almost double the measured size so you can fit RCA ends through it easily. You do need to cut it with a hot knife or it will unravel. I bought a hot knife from partsexpress which was basically worthless. Just buy a cheap disposible hobby knife and heat it up with a propane torch. Cuts through it like butter and leaves a nice clean edge.


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## Thumper26

i cut techflex with a generic wood burner that i got from walmart for like 5 bucks.

a dinky soldering iron would work fine as well.


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## chuyler1

Nice work! Simple, yet detail oriented. My style.


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## birdie2000

Damn, and people tell me _I'm_ anal. Love it!


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## tr0y_audi0

Nice dude thats sick..
Love the install
Peace Troy


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## fredridge

Hate to jack, but what size tech flex would you use for 4g wire? something that is not too tight.


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## ClinesSelect

fredridge said:


> Hate to jack, but what size tech flex would you use for 4g wire? something that is not too tight.


3/8" is a snug fit. If you want it a little loose then go with 1/2". 

This is 3/8" on 4 AWG if that helps.


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## yourownreality

very nice wiring. Thats how is should always be done.


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## CMR22

Oh my. That is so clean. Huge props for that install. I have a Ram also but my install is nothing like that. The idea for the slot in the amp rack is so cool. I have been trying to figure out a way to keep one of those uncovered. How is the amp rack attached to the truck, did you just run screws through the back wall?


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## Boostedrex

yourownreality said:


> very nice wiring. That's how it should always be done.


I couldn't agree more. 

Now hurry up and get those OEM 10's installed. 

Zach


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## ClinesSelect

CMR22 said:


> How is the amp rack attached to the truck, did you just run screws through the back wall?


No I did not run screws through the cab. Excuse my 3rd grade drawing skills but its difficult to explain without a diagram. The mounted amps are secured to the truck with four Simpson Strongtie 12ga straps which are in the red in the drawing. The straps are attached to the amp rack with t-nuts and bolts and then attached to the angled portion of the rear wall with sheet metal screws. Straps attached to the bottom of the rack is screwed into the floor. Using this method you can keep from having screws penetrating out the back of the cab. The felt in the drawing is the OEM stuff. It was removed and replaced with carpeting. Hope that makes sense, if not let me know.













Boostedrex said:


> I couldn't agree more.
> 
> Now hurry up and get those OEM 10's installed.
> 
> Zach


I'm working on it


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## Thumper26

yourownreality said:


> very nice wiring. Thats how is should always be done.


x2. i wish i had known about of the nuances of a competion install before running mine. I dread having to do that.

Also, what size techflex is on the remote wire?


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## ClinesSelect

It's 3/8" because it was zip tied to the 4 AWG cable and I wanted both pieces to be the same width. If they were not tied together, I would have used 1/4" because it would have been a tighter fit.


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## Greg B

That looks absolutely AMAZING!! Great job on the wiring. One quick question though, where do you the techflex from? I mean, I found their website, but which one did you get?

I have been wanting to get that stuff, but I wasn't sure which kind to get. Thanks. Sorry for the newb question....


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## ClinesSelect

Greg B said:


> That looks absolutely AMAZING!! Great job on the wiring. One quick question though, where do you the techflex from? I mean, I found their website, but which one did you get?
> 
> I have been wanting to get that stuff, but I wasn't sure which kind to get. Thanks. Sorry for the newb question....


Thanks  

Click on "Filter Sub-Categories" at the top and pull up whatever diameter you need. 

partsexpress.com

For example, here is the 1/2" black.

082-348


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## Greg B

Thanks man, I forgot about PE's website. DUH!!

I have never used 1/0 cable and that is what I am putting in my truck in a few weeks, what is the diameter of that? I will be getting the Knukonceptz wire. thanks.


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## ClinesSelect

I used 1/2" on the 1/0 and for shrink tubing I used the 3/4" 3-1. 

I have tried a bunch of different 1/0 cable including the Knu, Kicker, PE P3, and Stinger but this time I tried some eNetic and it is really easy to work with. It was $2.00 a foot with the forum discount when I bought it but it appears to now be $2.75. Just another option to consider.


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## Boostedrex

So do you think that the enetic wire is as good as it was hyped up to be?


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## ClinesSelect

What was it hyped to do? It's very flexible, easy to work with, much like the Kicker wire, which is all I was looking for. But unlike the Kicker cable....this is pretty inexpensive. One thing I did notice was that the wire did not fit into 1/0 connectors as easily as some other cable...which was more insulation than wire. That has to be good for at least an extra 14 SQ dBs.


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## Boostedrex

It was just hyped to be a "true" 1/0 cable and to have more conductor than other 1/0 cables on the market. Plus it's supposed to be really flexible for it's size and easy to work with. It sounds like the hype was true.


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## ClinesSelect

Did some work on the subwoofer enclosure today. 

It will be 1.5 CF net sealed for two TC10s. It is constructed from 1" MDF and goes in place of the stock center console. The stock arm rest/storage area is bolted to the enclosure after it is installed.

Recessed front end of the enclosure. 










Bottom of the enclosure. Still need to run a rabbet bit around the mounting holes to recess the sub. 










Center bracing board. 










Insides of the holes getting taped and painted.










Everything but the top glued together.


























Resin applied to the inside of the enclosure.


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## King Nothing

will you still be able to use your rear seats with the amps mounted back there? Will they still fold up correctly? I just picked up an 07 cummins diesel and have been scratching my head as to where to put the amps. My wife saw me sizing up those areas under the rear seat for subs and just started shaking her head


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## unpredictableacts

I fellow over kill user...but why the paint and the resin?



mind giving up som e diminsions width and hieght.....exterior of course.


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## CMR22

Resin strengthens and seals up the box like nobody's business. Its an old SPL trick. Although I'm not sure how much stronger it needs to be since he is using 1" mdf. Nice woodworking. All of the cuts look perfect and I like how even all of the screw holes are measured out. Sweet!


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## khail19

I understand the resin for stiffening, but I too am curious why you painted the holes on the brace. You must share your secrets!


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## Whiterabbit

there is no strength in resin.


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## CMR22

Whiterabbit said:


> there is no strength in resin.



Should i have used the word "stiffen" instead?


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## ClinesSelect

King Nothing said:


> will you still be able to use your rear seats with the amps mounted back there? Will they still fold up correctly? I just picked up an 07 cummins diesel and have been scratching my head as to where to put the amps. My wife saw me sizing up those areas under the rear seat for subs and just started shaking her head


The amps do not hinder the ability to use the seats. The latches are modified so that the back of the seat folds down to access the amps but everything remains fully functional. It looks like this:












unpredictableacts said:


> mind giving up som e diminsions width and hieght.....exterior of course.


It is 14 W x 9 H x 35 L. Anything over 9" makes the stock arm rest/console sit too high, IMO. You can make it a little wider if you adjust the mounting arms of the arm rest/console. I have also built enclosures 16" in width with the arms recessed into the enclosure to maintain the 14.5".


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## ClinesSelect

More enclosure photos.

Screw holes filled with Rage Gold and entire enclosure sanded down. Two layers of fiberglass mat was applied to all of the joints for strength and to help seal the enclosure. 

































Sub recessed into mounting hole.









Time to decide what would look best as far as a covering for the box.


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## birdie2000

How is that subwoofer going to sit in the truck? Those subs are downfiring correct? If so how are you elevating it?


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## ClinesSelect

Yes it is downfiring. There are four mounting bracket arms attached to the front seats which sit above the floor. The enclosure is bolted to those arms and the back of the enclosure rests on the rear cupholder which just happens to be the same height as the mounting arms. This keeps the enclosure level and elevated off the floor. The subs fit between the arms in the front and between the rear arm and the cupholder in the rear.

This is what it looks like in the rear. There is more space between the sub and floor than what the camera angle shows however.










You can even fit a S12L7 in there.


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## Whiterabbit

hehe. I love how you recessed a subwoofer with an enormously high surround.


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## Boostedrex

Now I'm getting really excited. How much longer until you'll be posting your thoughts on the OEM 10?? And have you ever had any problems with cancellation with the subs being that close to the floor?

Also, you didn't mention why you painted the inside of the holes for your box brace. Any word on that?

Zach


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## ClinesSelect

It should be up and running tomorrow. 

I have built center consoles with front, rear, up and down firing and have found that, in this vehicle, downfiring produced the best results, IMO. I have not had any cancellation issues. I do however try to keep as much space as possible between the enormously high surround and the floor.


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## Boostedrex

And the painted holes in the brace?


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## DonutHands

yea, painting the holes in the brace. why would one do that?


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## ClinesSelect

LOL



It looked better painted than unpainted.  

...and yes I do realize no one can see it or knows it's there besides me.


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## unpredictableacts

ClinesSelect said:


> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> It looked better painted than unpainted.
> 
> ...and yes I do realize no one can see it or knows it's there besides me.


That is sad.......


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## ClinesSelect

unpredictableacts said:


> That is sad.......


Ok


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## CMR22

unpredictableacts said:


> That is sad.......


How so? I guess Im missing what the big deal is. It looks like he has all of the zip ties facing the same direction and the seams on the raammat look they all run perfectly straight up and down and all of the screws are evenly spaced out on the box. How is this different? I think it is a incredibly well done install. Who cares if there is paint on the bracing


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## Boostedrex

It really doesn't matter. But I think that most on here were expecting some type of technical reason why. So when it's just his opinion of wanting it painted then some people were a bit let down.  It made me laugh honestly.


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## shinjohn

Lookin' good!


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## unpredictableacts

CMR22 said:


> How so? I guess Im missing what the big deal is. It looks like he has all of the zip ties facing the same direction and the seams on the raammat look they all run perfectly straight up and down and all of the screws are evenly spaced out on the box. How is this different? I think it is a incredibly well done install. Who cares if there is paint on the bracing


I was joking.....man?.


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## s10scooter

Got a question, when you run the 0/1 and use those screwdown zip ties, did you have any apprehension about screwing into the sheetmetal of your truck? I am afraid to screw into mine, but I think it will be a much cleaner and safer install if I do so.


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## ClinesSelect

Flipx99 said:


> Got a question, when you run the 0/1 and use those screwdown zip ties, did you have any apprehension about screwing into the sheetmetal of your truck? I am afraid to screw into mine, but I think it will be a much cleaner and safer install if I do so.


Out of an abundance of caution first grab a creeper and spend some time under the truck so you know where all of the fuel, brake, etc lines are located. The floors in the Rams are quite thick to keep out heat and noise. The screws do not penetrate through the floor as it does not take much to securely hold the cable in place.


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## Boostedrex

Ok, so is the install finished now? If so, what do you think of it in general? Also, what do you think of the OEM 10's?? I've been looking forward to your review of everything.

Zach


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## ClinesSelect

Well I built some kick panels for the Nextels but I was not happy with them at all. After seeing some of the outstanding work in the other install threads on here, I decided that I needed to revisit my plan in form of moving all of the wires behind the kick panels and build baffles which attach directly to the cab and vent them into area between the fender and inside panel. 

It will be something like this (these are not mine) except I am keeping the tweets in the A-pillars:


















These were the kick panels for the Nextels:


















I modified the center console to house the controller for the DCX-730. The cable is going to run up through the side and then into the console through the 12v outlet. From the inside of the center console, the outlet will look stock.


















While it was apart, some of the foam was removed to make the console sit lower as this enclosure is taller than most of the ones I have built. It will be saved in case I need to return the console back to stock.










I am waiting on some vinyl for the top of the enclosure so it will match the stock center console. This is the bottom however.










Techflex installed over cable and color-coded tape attached. All of the connections are soldered to the wires. 










In addition to the subs being recessed into the enclosure, the enclosure is raised up from the mounting arms to provide plenty of space for the tall surround. There is not enough room between the floor and the surrounds otherwise.










Sitting in place. 










Tweeters wired into A-pillars.










Since I needed mids while I revisited the kick panel issues, I installed some Legatia 3 in the dash. A mounting baffle was built using MDF and fiberglass. It is rough cut here and ready for sanding around the mounting hole. 


















A layer of Ensolite was cut to fit the dash under the dash panel and then the HAT3 installed (those gawd-awful screws were removed and replaced with more of a flush mount). 










I think I am caught up now with the progress.


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## CMR22

Very nice! This keeps reminding me that I need to start my install sometime soon. How do you like those Legatias? And I think we are still awaiting a review of the OEM 10.


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## fredridge

incredible work... I must say your wire looks great too and you shouldn't never have any problems with current flow


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## CMR22

x2 LOL

I wasn't gonna say anything but what are these...10 gauge maybe 8 gauge?


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## King Nothing

is that sub box gointg to extend all the ay back to the rear seat? i am wanting to do something similar for 2 10s but i would like to keep it in the same space as the console being removed so i can still fit 3 people in the rear.


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## ClinesSelect

King Nothing said:


> is that sub box gointg to extend all the ay back to the rear seat? i am wanting to do something similar for 2 10s but i would like to keep it in the same space as the console being removed so i can still fit 3 people in the rear.


It goes from the 4x4 shifter to the front of the back seats and rests on the metal cut out for the cup holder. It then bolts into the stock mounting brackets. 

You should look at audionutz's center console install over on ECA. Besides being incredibly well designed and built, that is about the only way to fit two 10s and maintain the middle seating position in the back seat as well as still use the stock console (just don't build the transition he has from the rear of the enclosure to the rear seats). I've built dual 10 enclosures that do not go to the rear seats however you cannot use the stock console. The space you have to work with is approx 9" high, 14.5" wide and 22" in length. 



Boostedrex said:


> Ok, so is the install finished now? If so, what do you think of it in general? Also, what do you think of the OEM 10's?? I've been looking forward to your review of everything.
> 
> Zach


One of the TC-10s would be plenty to fill out the bottom couple of octaves. For me, two are  

It reminds me quite a bit of the Brahma which may or may not be a good thing depending upon your opinion of that sub. Personally, the Mark II Brahma one of my favorite subs. I have the TC-10 crossed over at 63hz/24dB using the 9835 since I am running the *gasp* front stage *gasp* off my DCX-730. 

They are certainly not the most efficient sub ever invented so, in my opinion, they need quite a bit of power if you want to fully realize their potential in a small sealed enclosure. 

First up was the same album I play each time I do a new install, Van Morrison's 1970 release of Moondance. 

Interesting article on the recording session from the engineer: Moondance

The sub enclosure is sitting right between the front seats with both subs downfiring. For just being the beginning stages of tuning the system, the sub already blends very well with the Peerless XLS in the doors. Clean, tight, and plenty of output on each track I played. 

Up next was the self titled album from Sublime with lots of good subwoofer test tracks including Doin Time which can easily sound like a muddled one note mess. The TC-10 did a very admirable job keeping up with the bass line, not the best I have owned but good nonetheless. Once again, tons of output. 

Last up was 10,000 Days from Tool which showed me that I need to spend some quality time with my EQ and my midbass.  

Overall, this is a very capable performer if you have a nice healthy amp, you are looking for lots of output, and you do not have much room for an enclosure. It might be...dare I say...a true SQL sub 

We'll see how it sounds as tuning continues.


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## unpredictableacts

Maybe I missed it but what amplifier is being used on the woofers?


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## newtitan

man I so wish you were in CA, Id love to hear your install

those kicks (new design) look like gary biggs car outta car audiomag

interesting, 

maybe Ill try that one of these days, for now my mids are going on the dash, with a center to deal with the PLD's

AWESOME install

wish mine was this pretty lol


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## ClinesSelect

unpredictableacts said:


> Maybe I missed it but what amplifier is being used on the woofers?


It's an RE 35.1d that I bought from David at RE who had it modified a little. 



newtitan said:


> man I so wish you were in CA, Id love to hear your install
> 
> those kicks (new design) look like gary biggs car outta car audiomag
> 
> interesting,
> 
> maybe Ill try that one of these days, for now my mids are going on the dash, with a center to deal with the PLD's
> 
> AWESOME install
> 
> wish mine was this pretty lol


Thank you.  

I saw you mention fiberglassing the dash and doing some other work. Looks like its time to update that install thread you started because I am curious to see your progress


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## unpredictableacts

ClinesSelect said:


> It's an RE 35.1d that I bought from David at RE who had *it modified a little.
> *
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I saw you mention fiberglassing the dash and doing some other work. Looks like its time to update that install thread you started because I am curious to see your progress




Modified....how so?


----------



## aneonrider

Not trying to take anything away from this thread, but this is the console I did for a MAW-12 (2.2ft^3 tuned to 27Hz). It does not retain the stock storage, but does retain the ability to use as an arm rest.


























I'll get some installed pics if anyone wants them this weekend.


----------



## ClinesSelect

unpredictableacts said:


> Modified....how so?


You can mod them to play well below 1 ohm and accept higher voltage. For this set up however it is seeing a 1 ohm load. I've had it at 0.25.


----------



## CMR22

ClinesSelect said:


> You can mod them to play well below 1 ohm and accept higher voltage. For this set up however it is seeing a 1 ohm load. I've had it at 0.25.


1/4 ohm? Why not just buy a more powerful amp? I'd be afraid the amp would eventually turn into a puddle of metal. Its rather obvious you like it loud


----------



## prolead1

Wow,great install,love the detail.I have a 2004 Ram QC and you gave me some great ideas as I have the same midbasses and am starting from scratch.
I have a few questions.
1)Is the door panel difficult to get back on with the baffle and all the deadening?Is there enough clearance with the 3/4" baffle?
2)Did you use an existing hole in the firewall to tun the power through or did you need to drill.
3)Where did yor run your ground to?

I am going with a very similiar install,peerless midbasses,ID Max 12" in the center console,and undecided right now on the front stage.Thanks for any help.


----------



## ClinesSelect

CMR22 said:


> 1/4 ohm? Why not just buy a more powerful amp? I'd be afraid the amp would eventually turn into a puddle of metal. Its rather obvious you like it loud


Its not being run at 0.25 ohms in this install  

The problem with using a larger amp is that there is not much room available behind the seat for an amp with a large footprint. The 35.1d is one of the smaller amps I have.













prolead1 said:


> Wow,great install,love the detail.I have a 2004 Ram QC and you gave me some great ideas as I have the same midbasses and am starting from scratch.
> I have a few questions.
> 1)Is the door panel difficult to get back on with the baffle and all the deadening?Is there enough clearance with the 3/4" baffle?
> 2)Did you use an existing hole in the firewall to tun the power through or did you need to drill.
> 3)Where did yor run your ground to?
> 
> I am going with a very similiar install,peerless midbasses,ID Max 12" in the center console,and undecided right now on the front stage.Thanks for any help.


Thank you.

1) Not at all. I removed one of the plastic mounting arms on the door panel and shaved down some of the inside of the panel. Doing that, you can fit a pretty good sized baffle. The door panel slides right back into place. The most difficult part is that the Ensolite makes it difficult to slide the panel back into place just because it grabs a hold of the OEM insulation in the bottom of the door panel. 

Using 0.75" baffle I have fit all of these midbass with the exception of the JL which I have not tried yet. That may require a 1" baffle.


















Here is the RS225.









2) Yes the existing hole in the firewall is the perfect size for 1/0 AWG and it is plastic instead of metal. 

3) The grounds are run to a spot beneath the rear seat which was taken down to bare metal and then grounding blocks were installed.


----------



## ClinesSelect

The rear seats are now back in place. They were modified so that the backs fold down to access the amps.


----------



## newtitan

hey man just letting you know that center console idea worked out well at the BBQ last weekend, i think I prefer it down firing versus having the woofers under the rear seats.

I still ahvent figured how to get my top console attached ( my box is 14.5" wide) and its a TIGHT fit lol

I may have to make a inset for the armrest somehow, or go back to 13" wide


----------



## unpredictableacts

Very nice....what TREO amplifier is that and how does it perform?


----------



## CMR22

You think you have enough midbass drivers   

Those amps look great BTW. Nice work once again.


----------



## prolead1

Thanks for all the help.How are you liking the peerless midbasses?
I have a set of those and a set od ID IDQ 8's,I'm not sure which set to use.


----------



## GlasSman

khail19 said:


> I understand the resin for stiffening, but I too am curious why you painted the holes on the brace. You must share your secrets!


Resin does NADA for stiffening. Without cloth or matt reinforcement there is no strength benefits. Alot of people are misguided about the properties of resin. Alone it's no different than peanut brittle. 

I understand the reasoning for using it for SEALING MDF but it's much more effective and economical to use wood glue for this purpose. Tite Bond II is cheaper than resin and doesn't need a catalyst to dry..


----------



## ClinesSelect

unpredictableacts said:


> Very nice....what TREO amplifier is that and how does it perform?


It is the SSX1500.1. I also have the 75.4 and 125.2. I had sold the first 75.4 I bought and found a new one recently. They are great amps, plenty of SQ watts  , and pretty feature packed if you don't have other processing including a variable phase control. Downside is their huge footprint. 




















newtitan said:


> hey man just letting you know that center console idea worked out well at the BBQ last weekend, i think I prefer it down firing versus having the woofers under the rear seats.
> 
> I still ahvent figured how to get my top console attached ( my box is 14.5" wide) and its a TIGHT fit lol
> 
> I may have to make a inset for the armrest somehow, or go back to 13" wide


The console will fit on 14.5 just loosen up the bolts holding the arms on.  All of my enclosures are 14.5". 



prolead1 said:


> Thanks for all the help.How are you liking the peerless midbasses?
> I have a set of those and a set od ID IDQ 8's,I'm not sure which set to use.


No piece of equipment is ever "the best" but, IMHO, and just going off the other midbass drivers I have owned and installed, the XLS certainly ranks up in the top two or three. I was running them off 125 x 2 (at 4 ohms) but are now running them 350 x 2 off a bridged XA4000. Worlds of improvement.  



GlasSman said:


> Resin does NADA for stiffening. Without cloth or matt reinforcement there is no strength benefits. Alot of people are misguided about the properties of resin. Alone it's no different than peanut brittle.
> 
> I understand the reasoning for using it for SEALING MDF but it's much more effective and economical to use wood glue for this purpose. Tite Bond II is cheaper than resin and doesn't need a catalyst to dry..


I use Tite Bond II and resin for sealing. Complete overkill I know.  

All of the joints have fiberglass mat applied.


----------



## fredridge

ClinesSelect

thanks for all the tips on techflex. I ordered mine yesterday, just in time to get in on the free shipping


----------



## ClinesSelect

Did a little work over the weekend while it was 116 degrees.  

Stock dash panel. 










Legatia 3 in the dash with a layer of Ensolite. All of this is hidden by the stock dash panel. 










You can see the speaker grill cutouts in the dash panel which are smaller than the diameter of the Legatia 3. Listening to the L3s with and then without the dash panel showed that it needed to go. However, we needed some type of cover to keep everything aesthetically pleasing. 

End result. All of the defrost vents are still fully functional.


----------



## chuyler1

Awesome!!! I wish I could remove a piece of my dash like that! You could throw in a center channel too!


----------



## CMR22

Daaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn.   

That is sweet!! Line array in your dash?


----------



## SBennett

Ive been lurking on here a while now watching this and your install is amazing. Hope you dont mind but im going to steal some of your ideas for my Ram.  

Im getting ready to start my install and wondered what you thought of the Daytons for midbass. I'd like to go with the XLS or 8IB4 but they are impossible to find for a reasonable price anymore. Also how do you like those Eclipse amps? I saw they were rated at like 92% effecient or something close to that. They look great on the back wall of your truck.


----------



## ClinesSelect

SBennett said:


> Ive been lurking on here a while now watching this and your install is amazing. Hope you dont mind but im going to steal some of your ideas for my Ram.
> 
> Im getting ready to start my install and wondered what you thought of the Daytons for midbass. I'd like to go with the XLS or 8IB4 but they are impossible to find for a reasonable price anymore. Also how do you like those Eclipse amps? I saw they were rated at like 92% effecient or something close to that. They look great on the back wall of your truck.


Thanks. The Daytons are a very good midbass driver, especially considering the price. The XLS are a nice step up but, like you said, they are difficult to find. Look around on here for some review of the RS225 as there are quite a few.

The Eclipse amps have a larger footprint than the Alpines but, and this is just my personal opinion, I like the looks of Eclipse amps better. I know the XA2000 did a little more than rated power when it was tested by CA&E so I am assuming the XA4000 is pretty much the same. They do not get hot to the touch which says a lot considering where I live and where those amps are mounted. 

I really like the location of the connectors for this installation since they are hidden by the seat. The RE 35.1 has side connectors which is screwing up the looks a little bit. Overall, I am very happy with the XA amps. I have never had any issues with Eclipse amps in the past and these appear to be continuing on the tradition. 

If I could figure out a way to make it fit, I also bought a XA2000 for the tweets which would allow me to run one bridged XA4000 for mids and another one for the midbass.


----------



## Boostedrex

Do you happen to live near the Phoenix area? If so I'd really enjoy the chance to listen to your system when I come to visit some family this fall. 

And now that those OEM 10's have had break in time, are they sounding any different/worse/better?? 

And how is the stage/imaging of your setup?

Zach


----------



## niceguy

Nice job on that dash...I haven't checked the rest of the thread yet but I did something sortof similar in my Grand Voyager...I'm running large format Home Audio tweets in the dash and the cover (which is nearly identical to yours) also hampered the highs....I simply made a frame and grill clothed over it....shaped like the original but acoustically sound....


----------



## ClinesSelect

I am on the northwest side of Phoenix. I travel a lot but, if I am around, you are welcome to listen to it. 

They sound the same. I am still tuning but I had higher expectations for the TC-10s. If you play some rap or put in one of those bass CDs they will pressurize the cab of the truck enough that you feel like your head is going to implode. However, I listen to neither so that doesn't do me any good. For my tastes in music (70's rock, 90's alternative, etc) I was happier with a single RL-p 12 sealed. But, I am still playing with them.  

The staging/imaging is slowly coming together. Its not at the point where I am happy yet but I just haven't had to the time to mess with it like I need to.

*Edit:* Okay they are better than I what I was giving them credit for earlier. I finally took the time to drive out in the middle of nowhere so I didn't have to worry about annoying anyone and spent some time playing with the processing for a little while. They actually sounds pretty damn good and my urge to start building an enclosure for the Ava 12 is gone....for now.


----------



## ClinesSelect

niceguy said:


> Nice job on that dash...I haven't checked the rest of the thread yet but I did something sortof similar in my Grand Voyager...I'm running large format Home Audio tweets in the dash and the cover (which is nearly identical to yours) also hampered the highs....I simply made a frame and grill clothed over it....shaped like the original but acoustically sound....


Thanks. It does make a big improvement.


----------



## Boostedrex

Hmmm, that is a bit disappointing to hear. So after processing tweaks they are reproducing your music better? I don't listen to much rap and I don't own a single bass CD so I was pretty worried after your last post. I listen to a lot of rock, but other than that I listen to most everything else. I have a soft spot for opera and classical music. I do listen to some techno so I'm sure the TC10 will do fine for that. I just hope that I can tweak it to be what I want. If not then I do have a DIYMA 12 that I just won in a raffle. 

Out of curiosity, what did you have to tweak to get the subs sounding the way you wanted?? Maybe that way I will be able to save some time when I'm getting mine tuned in.

Zach


----------



## CMR22

ClinesSelect said:


> I am on the northwest side of Phoenix. I travel a lot but, if I am around, you are welcome to listen to it.
> 
> They sound the same. I am still tuning but I had higher expectations for the TC-10s. If you play some rap or put in one of those bass CDs they will pressurize the cab of the truck enough that you feel like your head is going to implode. However, I listen to neither so that doesn't do me any good. For my tastes in music (70's rock, 90's alternative, etc) I was happier with a single RL-p 12 sealed. But, I am still playing with them.
> 
> The staging/imaging is slowly coming together. Its not at the point where I am happy yet but I just haven't had to the time to mess with it like I need to.
> 
> *Edit:* Okay they are better than I what I was giving them credit for earlier. I finally took the time to drive out in the middle of nowhere so I didn't have to worry about annoying anyone and spent some time playing with the processing for a little while. They actually sounds pretty damn good and my urge to start building an enclosure for the Ava 12 is gone....for now.


LOL at the edit. 
A good sub will know when it is being badmouthed on teh interweb and step up its game.


----------



## niceguy

Not to get OT but I've always had the same experience when it comes to sub output and music genre.....Whether sealed or ported, it always seemed like bass heavy R&B songs,etc needed to be gained down and rock songs needed boosting...some of it likely due to the lack of hard hitting beats in some older rock music (70's & 80's) and overboosting of bass in R&B music....either way, very annoying to me....

Jeremy


----------



## ClinesSelect

Boostedrex said:


> Hmmm, that is a bit disappointing to hear. So after processing tweaks they are reproducing your music better? I don't listen to much rap and I don't own a single bass CD so I was pretty worried after your last post. I listen to a lot of rock, but other than that I listen to most everything else. I have a soft spot for opera and classical music. I do listen to some techno so I'm sure the TC10 will do fine for that. I just hope that I can tweak it to be what I want. If not then I do have a DIYMA 12 that I just won in a raffle.
> 
> Out of curiosity, what did you have to tweak to get the subs sounding the way you wanted?? Maybe that way I will be able to save some time when I'm getting mine tuned in.
> 
> Zach


I am running my front stage off the DCX-730 and I am using the crossover and PEQ on my 9835 for the sub. I bumped the LP up from 50 to 63hz/24dB, gave it a tiny bit of boost at 31.5hz, and then moved the volume on my DCX-730 from -8 to -12. That solved the problem. 



niceguy said:


> Not to get OT but I've always had the same experience when it comes to sub output and music genre.....Whether sealed or ported, it always seemed like bass heavy R&B songs,etc needed to be gained down and rock songs needed boosting...some of it likely due to the lack of hard hitting beats in some older rock music (70's & 80's) and overboosting of bass in R&B music....either way, very annoying to me....
> 
> Jeremy


Very true.


----------



## unpredictableacts

What length did you get out of your enclosure. I am doing something similar with a RE SX 12". I was told that I can raise up abouve seat level if need be. I am just going to use caridge bolts and attatch the enclosure the the facotry seat brackets. I want to port it but at the same time I am doing a 8"x8" plexi 3/4" window on top so I want the port to not cover the woofer's backside.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Its 34.75" in length. 

This is what I built for my SX12. Downfired with the port on the side.


----------



## unpredictableacts

nice...come to think about it ,it is the re hybrid SX.......what specs did you come up with for the enclosure i would like to shot the port out the back of the enclosure and down fire the woofer.....and I have to reatatch the facroty top console back to it. Will be made out of 3/4" MDF and I have 15" wide and 13.5" where the console has to reatatch to the box. will go back to the rear cup holders if I have to. if I went with 4" round ports how monay would i need, how long would they be....would like to get a 30-32 hz tune lower if possible with that woofer.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Yes it is a Fi SX. 

To get enough airspace, the enclosure needs to go from the 4x4 floor shifter, if he has one, to the front of the rear seats. The problem with that is your ports will be firing right into the rear seats. 

Here are some of the many different options I have tried. With all of them, including the SX enclosure, the OEM center console bolts onto the enclosure. 

Top firing slot vent.









Two 3” PVC ports.










Another side vent.










Two 3” Precision Ports.











If I recall correctly, the last one is 2 CF before port and sub displacement which brings it down to 1.67 CF. The ports are 17” in length each and it was tuned to 34hz. 

You can get quite a bit more port area if you go with the slot vent. Two 3" PVC ports gives you 14.14 sq inches of port area. With the slot port you get ~20 sq in. With a RL-p 12 I did get a little port noise from the PVC and even with the Precision Ports. I had none with the Fi SX and a slot port.


----------



## unpredictableacts

hmmmm well he does not have the 4x4 shifter but i have to allow enough room for the oem drink holder to fold out of the dash bottom....where does the side port sit? what is the port firing into?


would a front firing slot port be ideal?


----------



## ClinesSelect

unpredictableacts said:


> would a front firing slot port be ideal?


Like this?


----------



## Boostedrex

Thanks for sharing the EQ'ing that you used. I really appreciate that.


----------



## cummins77c

I don't know if anybody ever covered this but my searches didn't turn anything up. How do you modify the seats so the backs fold down? I have a ram that I am putting a system in and I have the fold flat floor which I would like to keep, so I want to put the amps on the back wall. Also with the way that I have seen this done I don't even know if it will be necessary for me because I have JL slash amps and the controls are on the bottom and I think that I am going to have to do all of my tuning with the seat completely out, and if that is the case then there really is no need to lay the seat backs down.


----------



## metanium

cummins77c said:


> I don't know if anybody ever covered this but my searches didn't turn anything up. How do you modify the seats so the backs fold down? I have a ram that I am putting a system in and I have the fold flat floor which I would like to keep, so I want to put the amps on the back wall. Also with the way that I have seen this done I don't even know if it will be necessary for me because I have JL slash amps and the controls are on the bottom and I think that I am going to have to do all of my tuning with the seat completely out, and if that is the case then there really is no need to lay the seat backs down.



To fold the seats down, you remove the seats, then remove the 4 hooks on the back wall of the cab. You flip them over (i.e. turn them upsidedown) and re-install them flipped. To fold the seats down, you lift the bottom up a bit while pulling on the top of the seat. If you install JL slash amps there it will be a little tough to get to the controls, but it can be done.

Here's my 500/1 & 450/4 behind the rear seat.


----------



## CMR22

Whoa I had never even thought you could put a ported enclosure in the center console.  The one with the sanding block sitting on it, what sub is that one for?

So are you done with this?


----------



## metanium

Hey ClinesSelect,

When you've done ported in the past, did you compare different port-firing directions? i.e. front vs back-firing v.s. down-firing?

I've been sooo tempted to try ported w/my Dayton RSS-265HO. I have 0.65 cf that I would like to port to +/- 30Hz.

Any advice on which direction to fire and slot port advice (3" pvc came out to 30", so I'm going to see if slot will work).

Thanks!


----------



## ClinesSelect

CMR22 said:


> Whoa I had never even thought you could put a ported enclosure in the center console.  The one with the sanding block sitting on it, what sub is that one for?
> 
> So are you done with this?


That enclosure was a for an Audioque HD10. 










I don't think anyone on here is ever "done".  

I decided to try some dome mids to compare them to the Legatia 3 so I bought a pair of DLS IR3 and a pair of the Dayton RS52. 




























I wanted to try them in the kicks first. 

This is the wiring that needed to be relocated on the passenger side. On the driver's side, the only wiring in the way was my alarm so that was easier to relocate.










Eventually I want to try a larger cone mid in the kicks and use the inside of the fender as the enclosure. If you pull back the OEM insulation, it is pretty clean in there and there is quite a bit of room to work with.










The DLS require a larger mounting hole than the Daytons so I am trying them first. 

Finished product.


----------



## ClinesSelect

metanium said:


> Hey ClinesSelect,
> 
> When you've done ported in the past, did you compare different port-firing directions? i.e. front vs back-firing v.s. down-firing?
> 
> I've been sooo tempted to try ported w/my Dayton RSS-265HO. I have 0.65 cf that I would like to port to +/- 30Hz.
> 
> Any advice on which direction to fire and slot port advice (3" pvc came out to 30", so I'm going to see if slot will work).
> 
> Thanks!


I have built enclosures for this truck with the vents firing forward, up and back. The subs I have used however required pretty good sized enclosures so the only way to vent to the rear and not have the vent blocked by the rear seat was to make the slot vent at the bottom of the enclosure. The vent faced the rear of the truck and fired under the rear seat. Of all of the designs, personally I liked the front firing the best. 

Just playing around with some numbers, you are looking at a pretty long slot vent also. One option might be the Dayton flared ports which have an elbow.


----------



## SBennett

ClinesSelect said:


> That enclosure was a for an Audioque HD10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think anyone on here is ever "done".
> 
> I decided to try some dome mids to compare them to the Legatia 3 so I bought a pair of DLS IR3 and a pair of the Dayton RS52.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to try them in the kicks first.
> 
> This is the wiring that needed to be relocated on the passenger side. On the driver's side, the only wiring in the way was my alarm so that was easier to relocate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually I want to try a larger cone mid in the kicks and use the inside of the fender as the enclosure. If you pull back the OEM insulation, it is pretty clean in there and there is quite a bit of room to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DLS require a larger mounting hole than the Daytons so I am trying them first.
> 
> Finished product.


I really like how that came out. Now you have me rethinking going with mids in the dash. How do you like the IR3?


----------



## SBennett

I really like how that came out. Now you have me rethinking going with mids in the dash. How do you like the IR3? WWhen are you going to try the Daytons?


----------



## ClinesSelect

SBennett said:


> I really like how that came out. Now you have me rethinking going with mids in the dash. How do you like the IR3? WWhen are you going to try the Daytons?


Thanks. The IR3s are great. The soundstage is getting close to where it needs to be and I am still tuning. The IR3 has been reviewed numerous times on different forums so I don't think I have much to add to what has already been said. 

I'll probably keep them in there a while before trying the Daytons.


----------



## rob05

Looks great! I will be perfrming my install in my truck in a couple weeks. Thanks, for the pics.


----------



## mobeious

BTW where did u purchase the hybrid audio 3's?


----------



## ClinesSelect

mobeious said:


> BTW where did u purchase the hybrid audio 3's?


I bought mine from someone on here. It looks like you found the thread I was going to refer you to.


----------



## mobeious

thnx, how do u like them? and ho low do u have the x over at


----------



## ClinesSelect

I ran them down to 250hz/24dB to mate with a set of Peerless XLS. With a small boost at 400hz and a cut at 900hz I was suprised how well they peformed considering their size and the fact I had them in the dash. I'm using the DLS IR3 in the kicks for mids now and I am curious how the L3 would perform in the same mounting spot.


----------



## BoondockSaints

Hey how did you get the front seats to fold forward? And do you think that could work on a 01 Ram as well?


----------



## ClinesSelect

BoondockSaints said:


> Hey how did you get the front seats to fold forward? And do you think that could work on a 01 Ram as well?


The bottom of the rear seats on the 2002+ trucks fold up so you can access the area under the rear seat. On those trucks you can flip over a bracket on the rear cab wall which allows you to flip down the seat back.


----------



## BoondockSaints

Got any install pics or threads on how to do this?


----------



## ClinesSelect

In post #114 in this thread, Metanium posted a pic of his truck which shows it.


----------



## CMR22

ClinesSelect said:


> The bottom of the rear seats on the 2002+ trucks fold up so you can access the area under the rear seat. On those trucks you can flip over a bracket on the rear cab wall which allows you to flip down the seat back.


x2. If you have a pre-2002 truck this mod does not work.


----------



## BoondockSaints

Whys that because my 01 folds up as well?


----------



## WrenchGuy

Hey man great great work. I know you've heard it enough. But theres nothing I like more than audio hygiene. Thats how you do it man. Thanks for your patience, pics, and provided info towards everything.


----------



## BoondockSaints

Also, do you know the approximate square footage of your floor? I imagine ours would be about the same if yours isnt even a little bigger. Although Ill measure to be sure.


----------



## ClinesSelect

BoondockSaints said:


> Also, do you know the approximate square footage of your floor? I imagine ours would be about the same if yours isnt even a little bigger. Although Ill measure to be sure.


The floor is ~25 sq feet. Total sq footage including all four doors and the rear cab wall is ~67 sq feet. I have multiple layers on every surface, including 5 layers on each door, so I used quite a bit more RAAMmat than that.


----------



## ClinesSelect

WrenchGuy said:


> Hey man great great work. I know you've heard it enough. But theres nothing I like more than audio hygiene. Thats how you do it man. Thanks for your patience, pics, and provided info towards everything.


Thank you for the kind words, it is appreciated


----------



## unpredictableacts

getting to that point.......What did you do to prep the rear wall to install the amplifiers on it? did you have to put up MDF?


----------



## ClinesSelect

The cab wall is covered in two layers of RAAMmat and Ensolite. Pictures of the mounting board are on the first page of this thread and then how I secured it to the truck is in post #33. The way it is mounted allows me to return the truck to back to stock as there are no holes cut or screws sticking through the back cab wall. It is also in there solid and doesn't move even with three pretty heavy amps mounted on it. The board is covered in a layer of Ensolite and then carbon fiber vinyl. 

One piece of advice, don't cover up both vents in the back as the occupants will not be happy everytime they close the doors.


----------



## unpredictableacts

Gotcha but how did you mount thoe board to the back wall....cant see where that happens.


----------



## CMR22

I already stole his idea for my truck.  I have the board cut and the metal straps. The board is held in place by the plastic trim on the sides and the metal straps on the top. Its a great idea. just make sure the board is cut so it fits in tight between the floor and the slanted metal part of the cab. This was his drawing that i went off of.


----------



## unpredictableacts

Gotcha I think I am going to use the OEM piece and reiforce the back with emsolite covered MDF and then drill into it.


----------



## C2P

Hi, long time lurker. I have a 2004 Ram and I really like your install, especially how you mounted the amps on the back wall since I want to do the same thing. Do you have the measurements for the amp board? Also, how much airspace can you get with the center consoles you built?


----------



## ClinesSelect

No I don't but I am ripping everything out and redoing it soon so I will measure the next one for you. 

You can get 2 CF and keep the OEM console.


----------



## newtitan

C2P said:


> Hi, long time lurker. I have a 2004 Ram and I really like your install, especially how you mounted the amps on the back wall since I want to do the same thing. Do you have the measurements for the amp board? Also, how much airspace can you get with the center consoles you built?



the board is 16" wide X 56" long (depending on if you want to meet the two side panels or go in front, buts thats a a good precut start) across the back, you half to cut out two squares for the vents depending on the yr model you have, and also deal with the middle seat belt at the bottom. 5/8 hardboard works the best, but 3/4" mdf will work too

this thread is sooo elite lol I gave up on mine


----------



## SQram

How do you like sound from the horns in the Dodge? 

Also, is there an easy way to get the glove box out?


----------



## ClinesSelect

SQram said:


> How do you like sound from the horns in the Dodge?
> 
> Also, is there an easy way to get the glove box out?


I took out the CD1e and replaced them with a set of CD1PRO today but I have not had time to do any tuning other then set the crossovers. Its been 10 years or so since I last installed horns in one of my vehicles and now I wonder why I waited so long. Just my opinion but nothing compares to the impact of horns. 

With respect to the glovebox, once you open it and there are two tabs on the back side which keep it from opening any farther. Push down on the area where the tabs are so they slip underneath the dash. The glovebox will then open all the way and it just lifts off the two mounting points at the bottom. 

I am very curious about your truck since you had mentioned that you had full size horns. Do you have photos of your truck and a list of what equipment you are using? Thanks


----------



## MAGNATUDE

Very nice install! How long have you been designing and installing systems? 

There seem to be alot of auto enthusiasts in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area. By any chance you show your truck at one of North Phoenix impromtu parking lot car shows held every Saturday night during the summer, by a McDonalds?


----------



## dbTroy

I really love the system. Very clean.

I've got a couple of questions about truck installs. I've got a 2000 Dodge Ram and I am really thinking about trying a down firing center console sub setup. Currently my subs are behind the seats (single cab) and they are in a wedge shaped box facing the back on the seat.

I don't know if my console is big enough to get two 10's in a ported box, but I know that I can get them into a sealed box. So my questions are...

- would one 10 ported down firing in the center console have more output than two 10's sealed?

- Overall, do you think the down firing setup sounds better than the subs facing the back of the seats?


----------



## SQram

ClinesSelect said:


> I took out the CD1e and replaced them with a set of CD1PRO today but I have not had time to do any tuning other then set the crossovers. Its been 10 years or so since I last installed horns in one of my vehicles and now I wonder why I waited so long. Just my opinion but nothing compares to the impact of horns.
> 
> With respect to the glovebox, once you open it and there are two tabs on the back side which keep it from opening any farther. Push down on the area where the tabs are so they slip underneath the dash. The glovebox will then open all the way and it just lifts off the two mounting points at the bottom.
> 
> I am very curious about your truck since you had mentioned that you had full size horns. Do you have photos of your truck and a list of what equipment you are using? Thanks



Here's a few pictures of my truck:

http://www.hzemall.com/our_gallery/installs/2005_dodge_ram_blue/install.htm

I use the Alpine 205/701 combo for processing and Veritas 8" Accubasses in the kicks. I usually use run the Veritas Accuwave's in my truck, but they dont fit with the midbasses. The full size ID bodies fit really well though, same way you installed the mini's. In the spring I am going to have some work done on the HVAC box so I can get the Veritas HLCD's back in...

Here is an old pic with the Accuwaves:

http://www3.telus.net/public/bkdancey/IMG_0576.JPG


----------



## CMR22

dbTroy said:


> I really love the system. Very clean.
> 
> I've got a couple of questions about truck installs. I've got a 2000 Dodge Ram and I am really thinking about trying a down firing center console sub setup. Currently my subs are behind the seats (single cab) and they are in a wedge shaped box facing the back on the seat.
> 
> I don't know if my console is big enough to get two 10's in a ported box, but I know that I can get them into a sealed box. So my questions are...
> 
> - would one 10 ported down firing in the center console have more output than two 10's sealed?
> 
> - Overall, do you think the down firing setup sounds better than the subs facing the back of the seats?


I have a Dodge also and, personally, I prefer the downfired over the box behind the seat. Certainly they can both be made to sound great but downfiring a sub in a truck sounds better, to me at least.


----------



## metanium

CMR22 said:


> I have a Dodge also and, personally, I prefer the downfired over the box behind the seat. Certainly they can both be made to sound great but downfiring a sub in a truck sounds better, to me at least.



100% agreed! The down-firing box in place of the center console beat the pants off of every behind or under-the-seat enclosure I tried.


----------



## ClinesSelect

SQram said:


> Here's a few pictures of my truck:
> 
> http://www.hzemall.com/our_gallery/installs/2005_dodge_ram_blue/install.htm
> 
> I use the Alpine 205/701 combo for processing and Veritas 8" Accubasses in the kicks. I usually use run the Veritas Accuwave's in my truck, but they dont fit with the midbasses. The full size ID bodies fit really well though, same way you installed the mini's. In the spring I am going to have some work done on the HVAC box so I can get the Veritas HLCD's back in...
> 
> Here is an old pic with the Accuwaves:
> 
> http://www3.telus.net/public/bkdancey/IMG_0576.JPG


Nice! I saw those photos while browsing through all the install pics on the hzemall site but I never realized that was your truck. I was especially interested in the kicks since I need to either move my 8s out of the door and into some kicks or go with three way with mids in the kicks. 

Just to confirm, the kicks fit with full size ID horns but not with the Veritas, correct? I take it you removed and relocated the parking brake? Is it safe to assume those kicks are sealed or did you vent them? 

Looks like I need to try some full size horn bodies next  






metanium said:


> 100% agreed! The down-firing box in place of the center console beat the pants off of every behind or under-the-seat enclosure I tried.


x3. I've been pleased with the performance of behind the seat enclosures however I prefer downfired in my truck.


----------



## ClinesSelect

It’s been awhile since I posted some pics. Still experimenting with the horns. Right now I have CD1PRO on mini-bodies. The mini-bodies from the CD2 actually fit better than the mini-bodies from the CD1E v3 which is great news since now I can fit a pair of the B&C DE500. 












Full size horn bodies along with the mini-bodies from the CD2 and CD1E v3. 










Passenger side horn installed. The very small gap, which you cannot see unless you are bent over looking for it, is necessary for the glove box to fully function. They were sanded and painted with SEM black to get rid of the glossy appearance and the imperfections in the horn bodies. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Driver’s side horn installed. They are flush up against the curved dash panel but you can still access the hood latch and the diagnostic port should the truck require servicing. It is farther away from the brake pedal than the pic shows. My foot does not contact the horn at all when pressing on the pedal. 










JBL mids in case I decide to go with a three way front stage. 










Here are the amps. 










IDQ15v2 for the center console.



















Output comparison between the IDQ (600w), a pair of TC Sounds TC 10 (1000+w) and a single SoundSplinter RL-p 12 (1000+w) in their recommended sealed enclosures. The TC10 and RL-p were what I had in there most recently along with the classic JBL 1200GTi. 











To control the Zapco DC Ref amps I bought an IBM ThinkPad and, for making adjustments without the laptop, a Zapco DRC-SL. 











Still waiting for my 18 Sounds midbass/midrange drivers but it is taking forever.


----------



## thehatedguy

You have a nice system planned.


----------



## ClinesSelect

thehatedguy said:


> You have a nice system planned.


Thank you. I appreciate the comment.


----------



## Boostedrex

Wow, those TC10's must have been incredibly in-efficient. I never did install the one I have into my Scion. I just didn't see it sounding any better than my DIYMA. I think that I'm going to use it in a Dakota install for an SPL fan friend of mine here soon.

What did you do with all of the gear from the previous versions on your install? There was a TON of really great stuff in that truck over the last 6 months.

Zach


----------



## kiko

wow your sistem is amazing bro !! you got nice stuff there. your wiring its just amazing ! like it a lot !!

wish you luck with your next project !!


----------



## ClinesSelect

Boostedrex said:


> Wow, those TC10's must have been incredibly in-efficient. I never did install the one I have into my Scion. I just didn't see it sounding any better than my DIYMA. I think that I'm going to use it in a Dakota install for an SPL fan friend of mine here soon.
> 
> What did you do with all of the gear from the previous versions on your install? There was a TON of really great stuff in that truck over the last 6 months.
> 
> Zach


I can't bring myself to sell anything. I still have stuff I bought back in the 80's including that Pyle sub in my avatar. 




kikosalaspl said:


> wow your sistem is amazing bro !! you got nice stuff there. your wiring its just amazing ! like it a lot !!
> 
> wish you luck with your next project !!


Thank you for the kind words.


----------



## Mike Hall

I wish FORDS had nice dashes to mount under like your Dodge. The passenger side is a good 2.5" lower than the drivers side which causes the drivers horn to be LOW. The top of my foot hits the back of the horn but its not a big deal. 

I cant say I have anything from the 80's but I do still have stuff that I bought from the early 90's  I tend to keep most all my stuff as well. The horns I just installed in my truck are working on 15 years old.  

Mike


----------



## popsicles

Beautiful work sir, any install pics on the horns? Just about ready to go active in my regular cab and I'm trying to build a front stage to keep up with 2 18's.


----------



## CMR22

The horns look great. I like how they are tucked right up next to the dash instead of hanging down like I have seen in other installs. I also like how they are not glossy as they match the dash better than the glossy black. I'm not sure you even need grilles for them as they look great just like they are. Makes me want to try a set. 

Question of the day. How are you going to fit the 15 IDQ in the center console?

Also, are you using all those Zapco amps in this install because some are DC and some are not.


----------



## xtwistedx

wow thats a huge amp wats the watts on it?


----------



## tr0y_audi0

nice.
I wish I could get a lison in this truck..
My fave Iv ever had was in my 97 Ram std cab
Type X
ID10 x2
Zapco Z200c2-sl's
Addzest DRZ9255

Im betting big your system rocks..
Nice clean install..


----------



## newtitan

ClinesSelect said:


> IDQ15v2 for the center console.





suuum b###h lol, how in the heckin jageebeez did you fit a 15, I tried everything lol


----------



## ClinesSelect

CMR22 said:


> The horns look great. I like how they are tucked right up next to the dash instead of hanging down like I have seen in other installs. I also like how they are not glossy as they match the dash better than the glossy black. I'm not sure you even need grilles for them as they look great just like they are. Makes me want to try a set.
> 
> Question of the day. How are you going to fit the 15 IDQ in the center console?
> 
> Also, are you using all those Zapco amps in this install because some are DC and some are not.


It was going to be this:

Horns- Zapco DC Ref 200.2 (50 x 2)
Right Mid- Zapco DC Ref 750.2 (890 x 1 bridged)
Left Mid- Zapco DC Ref 750.2 (890 x 1 bridged)
Sub - Zapco 1100.1

But then I picked up a DC Ref 360.4 as I may run a 3-way front stage. 



xtwistedx said:


> wow thats a huge amp wats the watts on it?


See above  



tr0y_audi0 said:


> nice.
> I wish I could get a lison in this truck..
> My fave Iv ever had was in my 97 Ram std cab
> Type X
> ID10 x2
> Zapco Z200c2-sl's
> Addzest DRZ9255
> 
> Im betting big your system rocks..
> Nice clean install..


Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.



newtitan said:


> suuum b###h lol, how in the heckin jageebeez did you fit a 15, I tried everything lol


I don't know why I didn't think of the IDQ15 earlier. 1.36 CF for 0.707 Qtc and a relatively shallow mounting depth compared to other 15s. Start with a 9 x 14.5 x 28 enclosure and then add another layer of MDF around the base so it is 16" wide. The enclosure sits up 1" above the rear mounting arms for a total height of 10". Since the IDQ doesn't have a high roll surround, it doesn't get close to hitting the arms even at full excursion.


----------



## xtwistedx

oooo there we go im blind. how do u like that amp? ur personal pref


----------



## notrious2

Great info here. I was just about to start my 2007 Dodge ram install.


----------



## SBennett

ClinesSelect said:


> Passenger side horn installed. The very small gap, which you cannot see unless you are bent over looking for it, is necessary for the glove box to fully function. They were sanded and painted with SEM black to get rid of the glossy appearance and the imperfections in the horn bodies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Driver’s side horn installed. They are flush up against the curved dash panel but you can still access the hood latch and the diagnostic port should the truck require servicing. It is farther away from the brake pedal than the pic shows. My foot does not contact the horn at all when pressing on the pedal.



Crap. Mine looks like ass compared to that.  I need to redo them cause those look great.

I need to read this again about fitting a 15 in the center console but I need to finish the horn install first.


----------



## SBennett

Im redoing my horns this weekend but I cannot figure out how you got the passenger side to line up with the bottom of the glove box. Mine sticks out too far and I hate the way it looks. Any advice? 

So you are using a DC Ref 360.4 instead of the 200.2?


----------



## ClinesSelect

SBennett said:


> Im redoing my horns this weekend but I cannot figure out how you got the passenger side to line up with the bottom of the glove box. Mine sticks out too far and I hate the way it looks. Any advice?
> 
> So you are using a DC Ref 360.4 instead of the 200.2?


Right in the middle of the blower housing is a support strap. If you remove the strap and relocate it just a little to the right, you can carefully grind off the plastic where the strap was located. That is what is keeping you from mounting the horn body far enough back that its flush with the bottom of the dash.  

Yes I bought a DC 360.4 as well as a pair of B&C DE500 and some USD Audio WaveGuides to play with.


----------



## SBennett

I got the driver's side done and I am going to try your advice today.

You got enough horns yet?  

What model USD horns are those? I looked at USD but they were really really expensive.


----------



## SQCherokee

thats alot of power


----------



## ClinesSelect

I'm bored so here is a little update. Finally took out the mini-bodiy horns and replaced them with full bodies. They were painted to match the interior. 

In the center console is an Image Dynamics IDQ15v2 in a sealed enclosure/1.35 CF. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view




















Underneath of the passenger side horn. The kick was trimmed to fit around the compression driver.


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Zapco 200.2 for the horns. I've not tried these USD horns yet. 











Zapco 1000.4 bridged dual mono for the JBL 2118H. Rated at 97dB, they need lots of power. 










Some of the different 8" woofers I have tried. The JBLs won so I ended up buying 4 of them. 










1000.4 and 200.2 behind the rear seat. The seat mounting brackets were modified so that the seat folds down. When it is up, the amps are completely hidden. 











Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 powers the IDQ15. 





























I'm thinking of building some door panels and trying a pair of midbass drivers per door when the weather cools off a little. I also need to try the Zapco DC Ref amps I bought.


----------



## HondAudio

I just realized you're in AZ. I am too. You said it was 116 degrees so I'm guessing you live in Yuma?


----------



## quest51210

yummy...good lookin tantrum


----------



## ClinesSelect

HondAudio said:


> I just realized you're in AZ. I am too. You said it was 116 degrees so I'm guessing you live in Yuma?


No I am out in Surprise.


----------



## Blazemore

Got anymore pics of the center console construction? Or other pics showing the side to get a better view instead of just the top.

Any problems with the rear seat rubbing on the amps from people / kids sitting / jumping etc.?


----------



## Ge0

ClinesSelect said:


> No I am out in Surprise.


Surprise huh? Crap, I have a grandma living out there in the retirement metroplex. I've been there numerous times over the last few years. I'll need to look you up next time I'm out that way in May.

Ge0


----------



## ClinesSelect

Blazemore said:


> Got anymore pics of the center console construction? Or other pics showing the side to get a better view instead of just the top.
> 
> Any problems with the rear seat rubbing on the amps from people / kids sitting / jumping etc.?


I will get a pic but it really looks no different than the other 200 boxes I have built for this truck. 

They are mounted so that the seat does not touch them even pushing on it with your fist. There is quite a bit of room back there and the Zapcos are pretty thin. 




Ge0 said:


> Surprise huh? Crap, I have a grandma living out there in the retirement metroplex. I've been there numerous times over the last few years. I'll need to look you up next time I'm out that way in May.
> 
> Ge0



Let me know when you are in town. We can grab something to eat over by the new stadium....on me.


----------



## Ge0

Question:

You showed a picture where you trimmed the kick panel beauty cover to fit the compression driver.

How did you get the edges to look so smooth? The corners of the cut almost look rounded off vs. sharp. It looks stock.

Ge0


----------



## Blazemore

ClinesSelect said:


> I will get a pic but it really looks no different than the other 200 boxes I have built for this truck.


I like visuals..what can I say . 

You just running a 3-way right now, ID horns, JBL midbass, ID sub? Using the processing off the zapco amps still?


----------



## ClinesSelect

Ge0 said:


> Question:
> 
> You showed a picture where you trimmed the kick panel beauty cover to fit the compression driver.
> 
> How did you get the edges to look so smooth? The corners of the cut almost look rounded off vs. sharp. It looks stock.
> 
> Ge0


I just used a file to smooth the edge and then painted the edge with some SEM paint. It's not rounded. 




Blazemore said:


> I like visuals..what can I say .
> 
> You just running a 3-way right now, ID horns, JBL midbass, ID sub? Using the processing off the zapco amps still?


No those are the Zapco Ref amps so they do not have the built in processing. I took out the PPI DCX-730 for two reasons; no matter what I tried there was still a little bit of hiss present and I knew I was eventually going to install the DC Ref amps. When I installed the Ref amps, I ripped out all the wiring in the truck and installed new wiring so that was a good time to take out the DCX-730.


----------



## Blazemore

ClinesSelect said:


> No those are the Zapco Ref amps so they do not have the built in processing.


I should have looked more closely...does the HU have enough processing for the horns or are you just waiting for the DC Ref amps.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Blazemore said:


> I should have looked more closely...does the HU have enough processing for the horns or are you just waiting for the DC Ref amps.


More EQ would be a "nice to have" but not a "must have. Other than that, it works surprisingly well.


----------



## werxnit

so fresh and so CLEAN!


----------



## mikey7182

ClinesSelect said:


> More EQ would be a "nice to have" but not a "must have. Other than that, it works surprisingly well.


I can personally attest to this!  Unless you've changed stuff out again in the last 3 weeks, which is completely plausible.  The horns coupled with the 8s in the doors and the single downfired sub is an incredible combination. The pro audio drivers up front produce a sound that I've never heard in a car before. It was literally like being at a concert. When the snare drums hit, they literally kicked me in the chest. I will be exchanging my 720PRS for 8s and horns soon.


----------



## ClinesSelect

mikey7182 said:


> I can personally attest to this!  Unless you've changed stuff out again in the last 3 weeks, which is completely plausible.  The horns coupled with the 8s in the doors and the single downfired sub is an incredible combination. The pro audio drivers up front produce a sound that I've never heard in a car before. It was literally like being at a concert. When the snare drums hit, they literally kicked me in the chest. I will be exchanging my 720PRS for 8s and horns soon.


I took out the RL-p 12 and installed the IDQ15. 

Don't be so quick to take out the PRS. I thought your truck sounded great and you had not even tuned it yet.


----------



## wheelieking71

ClinesSelect said:


> I took out the RL-p 12 and installed the IDQ15.
> 
> Don't be so quick to take out the PRS. I thought your truck sounded great and you had not even tuned it yet.


some people (myself included!) love the dynamics and impact that comes with horns and large high efficiency midbasses. i wish i could commit to the fabwork and tuning (and $$$$$) required to run horns.


----------



## titanle

very impressive work bro!!!!!


----------



## mikey7182

ClinesSelect said:


> I took out the RL-p 12 and installed the IDQ15.
> 
> Don't be so quick to take out the PRS. I thought your truck sounded great and you had not even tuned it yet.


I did have a chance to get the phase done and ran AutoEQ for fun but I am still tinkering with it. It does sound pretty damn good if I do say so myself. I have no complaints whatsoever about the PRS stuff- I love it all. But the horns definitely have a dynamic sound to them. Like you said, Dave- it sounds like you're right at a concert. Maybe I'll do some horns in the wifes' car.


----------



## bassboy86

wow, i am glad i found this forum and specifically this thread, you all have really inspired me to get back into my shop and get creative with my ram. you guys rock!


----------



## evli one

great build


----------



## knick

All I can say is Phenominal (hope I spelled that right) install 120%! You have def. given me some lofty goal as well as ideas. 

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## ClinesSelect

Thanks. 


Some updates...


Tried some 8s












My favorite three high efficiency mids





















Bought some horns


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view












Bought some DC Ref amps





















Also bought a 1000.4












Zapco DC Ref 1000.4 for the mids












Zapco 350.2 for the horns












Sub amp is under the rear seat as there was not enough room on the back cab wall


----------



## ClinesSelect

18Sound 8MB400 in the doors. 13 ply Baltic birch mounting baffles. 





















Vented center console enclosure for JBL 1200GTi.


----------



## HondAudio

ClinesSelect said:


>


A speaker with an octagonal frame. That offers... _possibilities_.


----------



## SQram

Have you tried the Illusion horns yet? If so, what are your thoughts? I picked up a set as well and am curious to hear what you think compared to the others?


----------



## ClinesSelect

SQram said:


> Have you tried the Illusion horns yet? If so, what are your thoughts? I picked up a set as well and am curious to hear what you think compared to the others?


Driver's side is no problem and I am less than half an inch away from them fitting on the passenger side. The electrical connection on the blower motor is the hold up. I need to source a used blower motor and move the connector to the other side. Then they will fit. 
I had set of the Illusion years ago and really liked them.


----------



## jamesjones

Approximately how many square feet of Raamat and ensolite would you say you have in the doors and floor? I'm getting ready to start the install on my Mega Cab and want an idea of how much to order.


----------



## nate2587

ClinesSelect said:


> Yes it is a Fi SX.
> 
> To get enough airspace, the enclosure needs to go from the 4x4 floor shifter, if he has one, to the front of the rear seats. The problem with that is your ports will be firing right into the rear seats.
> 
> Here are some of the many different options I have tried. With all of them, including the SX enclosure, the OEM center console bolts onto the enclosure.
> 
> Top firing slot vent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two 3” PVC ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another side vent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two 3” Precision Ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I recall correctly, the last one is 2 CF before port and sub displacement which brings it down to 1.67 CF. The ports are 17” in length each and it was tuned to 34hz.
> 
> You can get quite a bit more port area if you go with the slot vent. Two 3" PVC ports gives you 14.14 sq inches of port area. With the slot port you get ~20 sq in. With a RL-p 12 I did get a little port noise from the PVC and even with the Precision Ports. I had none with the Fi SX and a slot port.


Nice i sent you a PM i was wondering if you might be able to get me those box specs for a single 12


----------



## ClinesSelect

jamesjones said:


> Approximately how many square feet of Raamat and ensolite would you say you have in the doors and floor? I'm getting ready to start the install on my Mega Cab and want an idea of how much to order.


Just ball parking it, the floor is 5 x 5, the doors are 3 x 2.5 each and the rear cab wall is 5 x 3 giving you about 70sq ft. Your floor is larger however. Luxury Liner would be much better choice for the floor than Ensolite. Ensolite is great for keeping plastic panels from rattling against each other. 






nate2587 said:


> Nice i sent you a PM i was wondering if you might be able to get me those box specs for a single 12



I'll respond to your PM.


----------



## jamesjones

ClinesSelect said:


> Just ball parking it, the floor is 5 x 5, the doors are 3 x 2.5 each and the rear cab wall is 5 x 3 giving you about 70sq ft. Your floor is larger however. Luxury Liner would be much better choice for the floor than Ensolite. Ensolite is great for keeping plastic panels from rattling against each other.


Thanks, appreciate it.


----------



## Blazemore

How many miles you have on the dodge now? Still thinking about the Tundra? Going this weekend to look for real myself on a few '08 deals. BTW the rear end clips snapped in my too, just waiting on the exhaust springs to break now. Last thing on the '03 list 

Any pics of the new box installed? I know they all look the same, still like to see a pic thou.


----------



## ClinesSelect

80k. Wow, did I really say I was considering a Tundra? Someone must have hacked my account.  

I keep thinking car instead of truck.....but who knows. I have a room of subs that I want to try but they will not fit in the truck. 

That box is already out. I'll have to see if I took a pic.


----------



## mikey7182

Blowthrough........ B L O O O W through....... you can hear it calling your name, can't you?


----------



## Blazemore

ClinesSelect said:


> 80k. Wow, did I really say I was considering a Tundra? Someone must have hacked my account.
> 
> I keep thinking car instead of truck.....but who knows. I have a room of subs that I want to try but they will not fit in the truck.


You want one...stop looking under the dash all the time


----------



## wheelieking71

hey clinesselect, how did you like that 12" GTI? i have very fond memories of the 15" version of that vintage!


----------



## ClinesSelect

This was in before the JBL....downfired IDQ15 ported in the center console. It is upside down obviously. I don't have pics of this or the JBL installed.















mikey7182 said:


> Blowthrough........ B L O O O W through....... you can hear it calling your name, can't you?


10s in the doors first. 





wheelieking71 said:


> hey clinesselect, how did you like that 12" GTI? i have very fond memories of the 15" version of that vintage!



They are great, I had a couple of the 15s also. The downside is that they need a rather larger enclosure, too big for a center console.


----------



## ClinesSelect

There were originally three pieces for the HU install; trim ring, adapter, bezel. The Alpine trim piece was a slight different color than the rest and I had three gaps. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view











Some kitty hair, Rage Gold, SEM texture, and chalkboard black paint.


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## C-Bass

I had a few "good" questions that I was going to gather together and ask about but I find myself stuck at step 1.

How in the hell do you get those goddam rubber boots for the door jamb back in???????????

I ran my speaker wire through the molex connector and now I cannot for the life of me put the rubber boot back on.

I've been fighting for a few hours with the passenger side and managed to break the stupid black plastic casing the rubber fits on. I swear this is THE hardest thing I've had to do so far in this stupid truck. So far I've found these dodge vehicles have ridiculously stupid "features" that make working on them an incredible pain in the ass.


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## ClinesSelect

C-Bass said:


> I had a few "good" questions that I was going to gather together and ask about but I find myself stuck at step 1.
> 
> How in the hell do you get those goddam rubber boots for the door jamb back in???????????
> 
> I ran my speaker wire through the molex connector and now I cannot for the life of me put the rubber boot back on.
> 
> I've been fighting for a few hours with the passenger side and managed to break the stupid black plastic casing the rubber fits on. I swear this is THE hardest thing I've had to do so far in this stupid truck. So far I've found these dodge vehicles have ridiculously stupid "features" that make working on them an incredible pain in the ass.




Did you put the rubber boot on the molex connector _before_ you snapped it back into the door?


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## C-Bass

That's the only way that you could get the thing to sit properly no?

I went to the local dodge dealer and asked one of their body guys....he told me they way they do it is unbolt the door and then you at least have a little bit more room to work with. But even he told me it's a royal PITA

This is so unnecessarily complicated. No wonder the US auto makers are broke.


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## ClinesSelect

Are they the same as these? What year is your truck?


----------



## C-Bass

Truck is a 2004. That looks the same.

Once I get the rubber boot on the black piece that holds the two plugs together, I cannot for the life of me get the thing in the door.


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## ClinesSelect

That is bizarre. I know this doesn't help, but mine just snapped right back in even with 12 AWG. I've taken them out two or three time now. 

Is the wire placed between the black molex connector and the black ring and deforming the black outer ring? As long as I placed it next to the white connector, it fit fine.


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## C-Bass

The wire isn't an issue at all, I drilled a hole in the molex connector and passed it through.

I guess there is no trick to it. Oh well.

On another note

Have you ever thought about trying to place some tweeters flat in the dash along with the mid? I know space might be limited for some of the larger footprint tweeters but if the outcome would be worth while I might be up for it. I have some old Canton tweets I'd like to get in there.


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## C-Bass

double post


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## ClinesSelect

I have tried the large format SEAS and Daytons in the dash as well DLS IR3 and the Hybrid L3 but not both tweets and mids in the dash at the same time. There would be room for a small format tweet.


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## C-Bass

I'm thinking the Canton Pullmans and Seas L12RCY

any opinion on that choice?


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## C-Bass

....


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## Sr SQ

ClinesSelect said:


> This was in before the JBL....downfired IDQ15 ported in the center console. It is upside down obviously. I don't have pics of this or the JBL installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wondered if you could come up with the room for a 15?
> How did you like the IDQ ported?
> What size did that enclosure end up at?


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## noop

ClinesSelect said:


>


Hey I have a ? for you. the rounded corner, How was this done? what did you use? 

thanks


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## ClinesSelect

Sr SQ said:


> I wondered if you could come up with the room for a 15?
> How did you like the IDQ ported?
> What size did that enclosure end up at?



Setting aside the fact that the enclosure went all the way to the front of the rear seats, it was one of my favorite combinations. It is 2.1 CF gross.


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## ClinesSelect

noop said:


> Hey I have a ? for you. the rounded corner, How was this done? what did you use?
> 
> thanks


It is kerfed. I just use a table saw and a miter guide I made. The spaces are filled with glue and then I put a layer of kitty hair on the back side after the glue dries. 

Shopsmith Woodworking Special Operations


----------



## ClinesSelect

C-Bass said:


> I'm thinking the Canton Pullmans and Seas L12RCY
> 
> any opinion on that choice?


Wow, I had the RS6 set years ago. I've not tried the L12RCY. 

One thing about mounting tweets in the dash, the stock dash speaker cover really limits the off axis response. I ended up making an entire new panel covered with grill cloth. 



















Did you get the connectors back into the doors? Other than the Toyota SR5 back in the 80s and a few others, these Gen III Rams are some of my favorite vehicles to work on. Plenty off room in the doors for 8", space behind the rear seat for amps, the interior is incredibly quick to take apart and there is lots of room for cables and wires, even 1/0AWG.


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## noop

thanks I appreciate it.


----------



## C-Bass

ClinesSelect said:


> Wow, I had the RS6 set years ago. I've not tried the L12RCY.
> 
> One thing about mounting tweets in the dash, the stock dash speaker cover really limits the off axis response. I ended up making an entire new panel covered with grill cloth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get the connectors back into the doors? Other than the Toyota SR5 back in the 80s and a few others, these Gen III Rams are some of my favorite vehicles to work on. Plenty off room in the doors for 8", space behind the rear seat for amps, the interior is incredibly quick to take apart and there is lots of room for cables and wires, even 1/0AWG.


I haven't really put them back...well sort of. I put the boot back minus that black piece I broke and I'm keeping and eye on it to see if it pulls out of the door jamb easily. I haven't tried the driver's side yet.

I'm going to try for the rear doors tomorrow (yes I'll be using rear fill. My kid needs sound back there when watching Pokemon) at least I seem to have better luck putting those back in.

The Canton's I have a the Pullman Ti25s. My friend has had them for years and finally gave up what's left of his car stereo equipment to me. I always liked the way they sounded...very loud and detailed.

I have no experience with the SEAS drivers, but I can get a set locally for a good price...so why not right?

I was thinking of re-doing the dash cover (something similar to what you've done)so I'm not too worried about the stock locations. I just want to make sure they fit in there nicely.

When I get around to doing things properly I'll start a build thread. Right now I working with a budget of $0 and I need to make due with what I have as much as I hate to do it.


----------



## Charleston11

ClinesSelect said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Some updates...
> 
> 
> Tried some 8s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite three high efficiency mids
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought some horns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Bought some DC Ref amps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also bought a 1000.4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zapco DC Ref 1000.4 for the mids
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zapco 350.2 for the horns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sub amp is under the rear seat as there was not enough room on the back cab wall



Wow. Long time lurker. I thought I had tried quite a few mids but I stand corrected. I have a 05 Ram and have been using 6.5" mids but now I want to try horns and 8" mids. Out of all the mids, you like the 18 Sound the best? It looks like you have horns from USD, full and mini ID, Veritas, and even a set of the straight thru Illusion lenses. Are the Illusion as good as hype? What about the Illusion drivers, are they as good as what else is out there? 

Sorry for all the questions. Oh and all those Zapco DC Ref are sexy as hell. I like how you mounted them on the rear wall with no wires showing. I hate it when people have wires running all over the place instead of hiding them.


----------



## kh971

I am trying to find room on my wall for my two 200.2, 350.2 & 500.1 Zapco Reference amps. The amps will barely fit against the bare metal, did you screw your amps to the sheet steel?
I will probably have to do the same thing myself.
Also you got rid of both the vents. Did you cover over them with something else?
Did you add some somewhere else?
My truck is a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD also. 
Decisions....decisions...?!?!?!?


----------



## Charleston11

I was looking thru this again and it looks like he built a wood amp rack and left one vent open. I didnt want to put screws through the sheet metal but he has a great way to mount them so you don't have screws sticking thru and it's completely removable. I covered both vents up in a different truck I had and it was awful as your ears popped when you closed the doors or used the AC. 

I have another question about that old JBL GTi sub, what size box did you build for it. I used the have a 15 but sold it years ago.


----------



## kh971

Well the DC amps are 2.3 inches in depth and my References are 2 inches in depth and they actually are barely rubbed by the seats when they are raised and lowered, also notice the curve of the wall, the mounting board has been removed. I have some 1/4 laminated board here I may be able to use and the amps will barely brush the seats, but the vents will have to moved to a different part of the truck.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Charleston11 said:


> Wow. Long time lurker. I thought I had tried quite a few mids but I stand corrected. I have a 05 Ram and have been using 6.5" mids but now I want to try horns and 8" mids. Out of all the mids, you like the 18 Sound the best? It looks like you have horns from USD, full and mini ID, Veritas, and even a set of the straight thru Illusion lenses. Are the Illusion as good as hype? What about the Illusion drivers, are they as good as what else is out there?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. Oh and all those Zapco DC Ref are sexy as hell. I like how you mounted them on the rear wall with no wires showing. I hate it when people have wires running all over the place instead of hiding them.


I do like the 18Sound drivers the best. The JBL 2118 were an improvement over the B&C 8NDL51 but they needed quite a bit of processing and, at the time, I did not have enough to fix the issue. I may give the 2118 another try now that I am using the DC Ref 1000.4 for the mids. 

I have not installed the Illusion lenses yet however I have tried the Illusion Carbon compression drivers on my ID full size lenses and they are less than spectacular. They are rebadged Radian drivers. 







kh971 said:


> I am trying to find room on my wall for my two 200.2, 350.2 & 500.1 Zapco Reference amps. The amps will barely fit against the bare metal, did you screw your amps to the sheet steel?
> I will probably have to do the same thing myself.
> Also you got rid of both the vents. Did you cover over them with something else?
> Did you add some somewhere else?
> My truck is a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD also.
> Decisions....decisions...?!?!?!?





kh971 said:


> Well the DC amps are 2.3 inches in depth and my References are 2 inches in depth and they actually are barely rubbed by the seats when they are raised and lowered, also notice the curve of the wall, the mounting board has been removed. I have some 1/4 laminated board here I may be able to use and the amps will barely brush the seats, but the vents will have to moved to a different part of the truck.


Obviously it's up to you what you use however the DC Ref amps fit great using 5/8th wood for your amp rack. If you cut a tunnel, you don't have to worry about moving the vents somewhere else. The 5/8th slides behind the c-pillar trim so you do not have any exposed edges on the sides. Bevel the top edge to match the bevel in the rear cab wall and you are all set. As you can see, the vent does not protrude past the "tunnel" so you can mount an amp right over the top. 










...and the vent "breathes" out the bottom.











The DC Ref fit as well as the Refs.













Charleston11 said:


> I was looking thru this again and it looks like he built a wood amp rack and left one vent open. I didnt want to put screws through the sheet metal but he has a great way to mount them so you don't have screws sticking thru and it's completely removable. I covered both vents up in a different truck I had and it was awful as your ears popped when you closed the doors or used the AC.
> 
> I have another question about that old JBL GTi sub, what size box did you build for it. I used the have a 15 but sold it years ago.


It was just over 2CF, a little on the small side. Wish I could fit my 18.


----------



## wheelieking71

damn dude! you should snap a pic of all your gear in one spot. do they make a lens that goes that wide?


----------



## SQram

Any updates Clinesselect?? Need some motivation and always enjoy your thread...


----------



## Busarich

I just finished looking through the 10 pages. Very helpful and clean install. Thanks for the pics I am now building a center console box for a RE SE 12, with for the help with box.


----------



## ClinesSelect

SQram said:


> Any updates Clinesselect?? Need some motivation and always enjoy your thread...


I've been lazy about taking photos. I am debating whether to buy a new truck. 

Presently however it is:

Alpine 9887
B&C DE500 compression drivers on full size lenses with a Zapco DC Ref 350.2
JBL 2118H with a Zapco DC Ref 1000.4
IDQ 15 with a Zapco DC Ref 750.2

I have a bunch of new stuff I bought that I need to try out eventually.


----------



## Sr SQ

IDQ 15????
I have a IDQ 15 for my 03 QC that I am starting on in a week or two.
Any chance I could persuade you to give me some details on the enclosure you built, pics maybe?
TIA
Sr


----------



## ClinesSelect

Sr SQ said:


> IDQ 15????
> I have a IDQ 15 for my 03 QC that I am starting on in a week or two.
> Any chance I could persuade you to give me some details on the enclosure you built, pics maybe?
> TIA
> Sr


It's just a downfired 15" in the center console. If you keep the height of the enclosure at or under 9.5" the arm rest is still comfortable, or at least it is to me. Width you can go up to 15.5" and then make the length whatever you need to get the airspace you want. You can go 28" or so and still have access to the cupholder in the back.


----------



## Sr SQ

Awesome, thanks for the info.
I'm looking forward to seeing the difference between this and the dual 10" IDQs I had.


----------



## kriskees

ClinesSelect Thanks so much for posting and sharing. I have learned a ton on this thread and Im ready for my install in an 03 regular cab. Very good stuff.....


----------



## Busarich

Under the cender console, what did you do with the module that was there? Under the drivers seat??


----------



## Blazemore

Busarich said:


> Under the cender console, what did you do with the module that was there? Under the drivers seat??


Is yours an '03? You talking about a black plastic module under the center seat at the trans hump? I don't recall seeing one on an '03 when I did my sub box, but that was a long time ago, could be wrong.

Deca you know the tundra is talking.


----------



## Busarich

No, I don't have a 03. I have an 08. I didn't know if he had one andjust moved it under the seat or something. Thanks.


----------



## newtitan

that module is the cpu for the airbag system, on only SOME 08 models, including mine

you can unscrew it, and push it forward towards the cup holder, just be careful not to damage teh wires (they are pretty long stock) mie sits towards the right hand side of the tranny hump right underneath the stock cupholder

throw a peice of ensolite on the bare square area ( I wouldnt recommend mat, for when you may have to out it back into place for resale or something) and you are in business..I also put duct tape on the ends of the carpet so they dont flop around from the air pressure


----------



## Busarich

Thanks for the info.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Finally found some free time to build a new center console. 

The goal was to fit one of these:










Quite a bit more mounting depth than some of the other JBL 12s I have.




















It would be a downfired vented enclosure with the vent facing back. The vent would be flared on the bottom and the top rounded over...to reduce/eliminate vent noise. The bottom is kerfed to get the bend. 

In front of the rear seats in the truck is a cup holder. I fiberglassed around the OEM cup holder and made that mold part of the enclosure. The OEM cup holder press fits inside the mold. 

The back is just press fit together so ignore how it does not line up.













Finished. The front is fiberglass to get the curve. 



















The vinyl matches the vinyl on the OEM console.


----------



## chithead

VERY nice!


----------



## newtitan

dude that is the illest I swear WOW, man you could make a business selling these I tell you, that guy fox box, has NOTHING on you man


----------



## ctrhenry

source for that vinyl ?


----------



## Blazemore

Like it, kinda like what Steve did with his. I always wanted to copy that idea but you can't use the fold out trays and I still do. 

Have any box construction pics?


----------



## ClinesSelect

newtitan said:


> dude that is the illest I swear WOW, man you could make a business selling these I tell you, that guy fox box, has NOTHING on you man


Thank you. 




ctrhenry said:


> source for that vinyl ?


A friend who used to do upholstery got it for me. I am not sure from where however. 




Blazemore said:


> Like it, kinda like what Steve did with his. I always wanted to copy that idea but you can't use the fold out trays and I still do.
> 
> Have any box construction pics?


I had not seen anyone do a horizontal kerfed rear vent before which is what I thought was unique. I've not looked at his build pics in a while but wasn't the open section of his in the front? 

I only took a couple of build pics because....


----------



## King Nothing

That box is sweet


----------



## Blazemore

ClinesSelect said:


> I had not seen anyone do a horizontal kerfed rear vent before which is what I thought was unique. I've not looked at his build pics in a while but wasn't the open section of his in the front?


No I was talking about a rear sloping box to the cup holders. Your right never seen a rear vented until now. 

119F.....here a cool 78F with a low brisk wind. Did the front and rear diff's oil changes today. Didn't even break a sweet.


----------



## ClinesSelect

It was only 115 today. Light jacket weather....


----------



## Blazemore

You can pretty much piss stream there


----------



## ctrhenry

ClinesSelect said:


> It was only 115 today. Light jacket weather....


but its a dry heat.......................


----------



## rexroadj

Have you ever fit 5.25" mids in the dash? Its an idea I have been toying with but evertime I go out with a template it does not seem realistic. Obviously I can MAKE it work but would like to be able to keep the stock or a home made panel. The only reason I ask is because I can get an insane deal on a set of 5.25's and want to keep 8s in the doors and do not like kicks.
Thanks.........your work is unparalleled, I enjoy seeing all your work!


----------



## chithead

rexroadj said:


> Have you ever fit 5.25" mids in the dash? Its an idea I have been toying with but evertime I go out with a template it does not seem realistic. Obviously I can MAKE it work but would like to be able to keep the stock or a home made panel. The only reason I ask is because I can get an insane deal on a set of 5.25's and want to keep 8s in the doors and do not like kicks.
> Thanks.........your work is unparalleled, I enjoy seeing all your work!


I look forward to seeing this done as well.


----------



## ctrhenry

the dash in this truck is screaming for aset of waveguides like P.Bateman is experimenting with.


If the extra door panels that I won off ebay for $100 ever get here I am going to start on my door panels. 

i hate UPS


----------



## ClinesSelect

rexroadj said:


> Have you ever fit 5.25" mids in the dash? Its an idea I have been toying with but evertime I go out with a template it does not seem realistic. Obviously I can MAKE it work but would like to be able to keep the stock or a home made panel. The only reason I ask is because I can get an insane deal on a set of 5.25's and want to keep 8s in the doors and do not like kicks.
> Thanks.........your work is unparalleled, I enjoy seeing all your work!


I have not tried 5.25" drivers. The largest (physical size) I tried were the DLS IR3. There is a surprising amount of room in the dash if you build a new panel.


----------



## King Nothing

Theres a ridiculous amount of room under the dash. I test fit some dayton RS100s. thats the biggest speaker that will fit in the outside holes without dash modifications


----------



## jlaudio

can i have some of your speakers and amps.....


----------



## rexroadj

Yeah, it is pretty spacious, I just like to keep things under the dash cover. I know trying to put 4's on top of it was not very achievable last time I attempted it. (have a spare cover) I put 4s under the cover all the time without any trouble but I dont think the 5.25 is going to happen for me.......I figured if you did it there might be a nice little tutorial about it and maybe I could get brave (or drunk) enough to attempt it.


----------



## newtitan

spent 4 hours, finally got my horns in today!!!!, whew thanks for the posted pics, they really helped, although I did mine slightly different

and for the life of me I dont see how you got the full bodies in on the passenger side, they must have made the ac unit larger on the 06

the mini bodies fit perfect though


*just wanted to say THANKS!!!!*


----------



## spp-scott

Very nicely done. Great detail work!


----------



## marinemail05

ClinesSelect, I sent you a PM about a single 12 as well. Need a little advice.


----------



## rhuff11

This set up is crazy awesome!


----------



## gol10dr45

Very cool thread. Just joined. I am in AZ too! Bet that truck sounds freaking awsome. What do you do for a living?  haha all that money going towards audio is crazy!


----------



## stereo_luver

Been following this one for a while. I'm about to do a full tilt (as much as I can within reason) to my 2005 Ram Quad.


----------



## stereo_luver

BTW. Can I see some better pics of the tweets? Mostly what angle you mounted and how high above the dash. I see from the detail of the wiring that they are about the location of the snaps that hold the pillar in place.


----------



## ClinesSelect

stereo_luver said:


> BTW. Can I see some better pics of the tweets? Mostly what angle you mounted and how high above the dash. I see from the detail of the wiring that they are about the location of the snaps that hold the pillar in place.


The tweets in the a-pillars? I actually took those out ages ago and have been using horns so I do not have any more photos. They were approx 6" above the dash and, in the final version, pointed towards the middle of the truck above the center console. I would advise against mounting them flush with the pillars unless you have a pair with some incredible off-axis response. Double sided tape works great to mount the tweets temporarily until you find the best mounting location.


----------



## ClinesSelect

newtitan said:


> spent 4 hours, finally got my horns in today!!!!, whew thanks for the posted pics, they really helped, although I did mine slightly different
> 
> and for the life of me I dont see how you got the full bodies in on the passenger side, they must have made the ac unit larger on the 06
> 
> the mini bodies fit perfect though
> 
> 
> *just wanted to say THANKS!!!!*


We installed a set of full bodies on an 06 a couple of months ago. Dodge used the same blower motor from 2003-2008.


----------



## newtitan

on the pass. side did you place the horn upside down or something?...my ac unit is huge..how did you work around it? id love to have the lower crossover is possible.....please do tell when you have the time.

thanks


----------



## ClinesSelect

newtitan said:


> on the pass. side did you place the horn upside down or something?...my ac unit is huge..how did you work around it? id love to have the lower crossover is possible.....please do tell when you have the time.
> 
> thanks



You need to use the lense which allows you to mount the compression drivers firing up (since the full size lenses are a mirror of each other). On the front of the HVAC unit, there is a metal support strap. You need to unscrew the strap and relocate it back a little bit towards the front of the truck. You then need to Dremel off the plastic mounting point where the strap was attached. The lense curves right around blower motor. It is a really good fit as you are up against the right side of the cab and tight up against the bottom of the dash. 

They definitely fit.  



__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## King Nothing

Looks like you sacrifice some leg room


----------



## ClinesSelect

Not at all.....and I am 6'2. The photos make them look more intrusive than they really are.


----------



## King Nothing

Wish I was close you you. id LOVE to hear your setup


----------



## newtitan

ClinesSelect said:


> You need to use the lense which allows you to mount the compression drivers firing up (since the full size lenses are a mirror of each other). On the front of the HVAC unit, there is a metal support strap. You need to unscrew the strap and relocate it back a little bit towards the front of the truck. You then need to Dremel off the plastic mounting point where the strap was attached. The lense curves right around blower motor. It is a really good fit as you are up against the right side of the cab and tight up against the bottom of the dash.
> 
> They definitely fit.
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Image uploading. Refresh page to view



okie dokie man, Ill see what i can do this weekend

I dont have this "disk" you are referring to though? the ultra drivers I have, have a half oval shape throat, unlike the neo or cd2 or most other drivers that have the round face. Ill have to fab something up out of mdf/rubber gasket or something

thanks for the tip


----------



## miphonematt

I'm so stoked I stumbled on this site, and especially this thread. By far the best done Quad Cab Dodge Ram I've seen. I just bought my Dodge a few months ago and went from having a highly tuned setup in my Mustang which I sold (including the audio system), to this truck that I didn't think had nearly the potential as my last vehicle. You have truly given me hope.

Your wiring and quality builds are extremely impressive. I know you don't sell your equipment, but if you ever want to sell one of your old enclosures, I live in North Phoenix and would be very grateful if you did. I don't have access to a quality table saw anymore, so I'm pretty stuck until I buy one.

Anyhow, the time you took to post pictures and information is much appreciated man. Amazing work

-Matt


----------



## ClinesSelect

To the guy for who the pics would not show up in the PM, here they are. 

I replaced the vented JBL W12GTi with a sealed W15GTi. Same basic enclosure shape just without the vent. It's 2.1CF. Fiberglass and MDF. 






























I also switched out the DC Ref 350.2 for a 360.4 which is running bridged to the HLCDs. 











For fun I also built some kicks for JBL 500GTi.
































But most fun I tried Patrick Bateman's PVC mod for the lenses. I was running just a small piece of PVC on the bottom of the lense (as you can see in the pic above) but after seeing Patrick's thread I added a larger section of PVC which extends into the mouth of the lense. 


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## newtitan

what does the PVC due?? and why would you purposely want to alter the FR out of the mouth like that?


----------



## ClinesSelect

It's in this thread. 

The HOMster! (or How I Learned How to Fix a Horn) - Page 2 - diyAudio

Post 13 is his summary.


----------



## Blazemore

In a nutshell sharp edges = lots of diffraction from what Patrick is describing. It's a very interesting read! 

Edit: Clines beat me to the link... You seen any improvements?


----------



## ClinesSelect

The stage is up higher and farther out front. More importantly, it is consistently up high instead being drug down by some songs. 

I built the kicks a couple of months ago and the new sub was installed a week or so ago. I modified the lenses yesterday so it was the only change I made until I swapped in the new amp today. I spent a few hours listening to the modded lenses yesterday and this morning with no changes made at all to anything else and you could really appreciate the difference.


----------



## titan 3

Love the detailed work! The wire looms look fantastic!


----------



## SQram

Have you tried the foam in the horn throats as suggested by Patrick?


----------



## ClinesSelect

SQram said:


> Have you tried the foam in the horn throats as suggested by Patrick?


I just got some last night so I am currently trying different amounts and placement of the 30 ppi reticulated foam. I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## King Nothing

Cines, im gonna load my megacab up on a flatbed and send it to you LOL. just duplicate your install and we'll be golden


----------



## ClinesSelect

King Nothing said:


> Cines, im gonna load my megacab up on a flatbed and send it to you LOL. just duplicate your install and we'll be golden


So no blow-through?


----------



## BLK05HEMI

Wow i love this thread!!!!!!


----------



## ClinesSelect

Tried numerous different amounts and placement of the foam. Everything from stuffing the entire mouth to just one piece. Subjectively, the improvement, to me, was minimal. I am more impressed with the round-over. I ended up going with two strips which run parallel to each other.


----------



## sydmonster

fantastic feed back about the horns & obviously a fantastic install from day 1. good to see some nice ol' stuff being used.
Tell me with your experience with the horns, how well does it all image, voices centered etc?


----------



## Prozac

I just wanted to say that your truck looks and probably sounds amazing. You have given me some insight as what I want to try and accomplish with my '04.

Prozac


----------



## ClinesSelect

sydmonster said:


> fantastic feed back about the horns & obviously a fantastic install from day 1. good to see some nice ol' stuff being used.
> Tell me with your experience with the horns, how well does it all image, voices centered etc?



Thank you for the kind words. Vocals are center of the vehicle at or slightly below eye level. There is a little bleed of the vocals toward the left that I am still working on. As much as I wanted to keep it a two-way front, the mids in the kicks really helped with the staging.


----------



## King Nothing

ClinesSelect said:


> So no blow-through?


 bust out the plasma cutter LOL


----------



## rockers109

Awesome workmanship. Did you modify your existing kickpanels to put the mids in or did you fabricate completely new ones. they look flaweless?


----------



## ClinesSelect

rockers109 said:


> Awesome workmanship. Did you modify your existing kickpanels to put the mids in or did you fabricate completely new ones. they look flaweless?


Thanks. You can tape off the existing kicks as a mold to get the curve where the kick meets the sill or you can cut the curve out of a Q-Form and then fiberglass the kick from there. That way it does not look like a blob attached to a kick. Those are just a MDF ring and fiberglass using the curve of a Q-Form as a mold to start with.


----------



## sydmonster

ClinesSelect said:


> Thank you for the kind words. Vocals are center of the vehicle at or slightly below eye level. There is a little bleed of the vocals toward the left that I am still working on. As much as I wanted to keep it a two-way front, the mids in the kicks really helped with the staging.


Interesting you mention that.
Let me explain. I've made a ruff wave guide/horn sort of design for my tweets. Something to experiment with. I also seem to have some stage bleed just to the left. I have a feeling pending on male/female voice/song I have a second center image causing this, but only ever so slight.
Ironically, living in Aus that means its further away from me as our cars have the steering wheel on the right.


----------



## ClinesSelect

sydmonster said:


> I've made a ruff wave guide/horn sort of design for my tweets. Something to experiment with.


I'd love to see what you did.


----------



## Patrick Bateman

What a trip, I've been working on my midbasses for my Accord, and you've been working on your horns. You used an idea I posted for the horns, and guess what speakers I've been messing with?









Look familiar? I literally dug this out of the garage this afternoon. And I never saw this thread until tonight.









aaaand I have the B&C woofers too. The measurement above is their polar response in my car. (Haven't taken pics of the box yet.) The 18Sound looks very promising!

Right now I'm running tapped horns for the subs, and two sets of horns from 300hz and up. There's a big hole in the response at the moment, which is why I'm trying a bunch of midbasses.

Anyways, a very interesting thread! Our setups are eerily similar.


----------



## ClinesSelect

Your roundover mod for the horn lenses is genius. Well done.  

400GTi...nice. Have you played with the JBL 2105?


----------



## kh971

Cline do you remember the 5 1/4 titanium dome midranges JBL used to offer to pair with theit T06 tweeters?


----------



## Echo42987

This thread is like the Energizer Bunny 

Great job and on 12 installs lol


----------



## Patrick Bateman

ClinesSelect said:


> Your roundover mod for the horn lenses is genius. Well done.
> 
> 400GTi...nice. Have you played with the JBL 2105?


It's funny you mention that. I purchased the 400GTI over half a decade ago, and it's performance was an immediate disappointment. There's a peak in the response, and its QTS value is higher than I'd like. I put it up on a shelf and forgot about it.

Over the past two weeks, I've been working on the midbass performance of my car. The midbass is exceptionally difficult, because I have horn subwoofers, midrange, and treble. So I need an un-fcuk-ing-be-liev-a-ble midbass to keep up with the rest.

I figure the Grand National is a good benchmark, so I began to reverse engineer it. Clark never revealed what he was using for the midbass in the quarter panel, and the midbass under the dash. After a lot of digging through the JBL catalog, I believe it's a 2204 in the quarter panels. There are no pics of what was under the dash, but I'll bet it's a variant of the LE5, probably one of the alnico versions like the 134H or the 2105.

After simulating the performance of those two woofers working in tandem, it's not difficult to see why the Grand National was difficult to beat. Even in 2009 there are only a handful of midbasses with lower distortion, at ANY price. The combination of these two midbasses also gave Clark a significant edge over the tens used in Kimura's Acura, and the eights used by Mark Eldridge and Todd Matsubara. This wasn't a small advantage - we're talking about TEN decibels worth of output from 80 to 500hz, and lower distortion.

Have you done an A/B comparison of the 500GTI and the JBL 2105?

JBL hasn't published distortion specs for the 500GTI. But one look at the motor, and the very low inductance figure, implies that it *could* have some of the goodness of the 2105. If that's the case, I'll really be kicking myself for overlooking this midbass for so many years.

There's one way to find out - I intend to measure the frequency response and distortion in the next week.


----------



## ClinesSelect

kh971 said:


> Cline do you remember the 5 1/4 titanium dome midranges JBL used to offer to pair with theit T06 tweeters?


The T41, T51 and T61?


----------



## ClinesSelect

Patrick Bateman said:


> I figure the Grand National is a good benchmark, so I began to reverse engineer it. Clark never revealed what he was using for the midbass in the quarter panel, and the midbass under the dash. After a lot of digging through the JBL catalog, I believe it's a 2204 in the quarter panels. There are no pics of what was under the dash, but I'll bet it's a variant of the LE5, probably one of the alnico versions like the 134H or the 2105.
> 
> After simulating the performance of those two woofers working in tandem, it's not difficult to see why the Grand National was difficult to beat. Even in 2009 there are only a handful of midbasses with lower distortion, at ANY price. The combination of these two midbasses also gave Clark a significant edge over the tens used in Kimura's Acura, and the eights used by Mark Eldridge and Todd Matsubara. This wasn't a small advantage - we're talking about TEN decibels worth of output from 80 to 500hz, and lower distortion.


I met Richard Clark and was able to audition the Grand National at the IASCA Finals here in AZ back in 1990. Almost a religious experience.  

It was my assumption also that the midbass were the 2204. I've never heard anything since which compares. 




Patrick Bateman said:


> Have you done an A/B comparison of the 500GTI and the JBL 2105?


I have not but will soon. 




Patrick Bateman said:


> JBL hasn't published distortion specs for the 500GTI. But one look at the motor, and the very low inductance figure, implies that it *could* have some of the goodness of the 2105. If that's the case, I'll really be kicking myself for overlooking this midbass for so many years.
> 
> There's one way to find out - I intend to measure the frequency response and distortion in the next week.



I will be anxious to see your results.


----------



## kh971

I listened to the Grand National here at Athens, Ga. It was amazing and there was a write up on it CA&E I think. He had 15's in the trunk and a 12 in each side where the armrest was in the backseat. Yeah there was a writeup, I remember seeing the picture of him holding one of his massive waveguide tweeters...the magnet was as big as his head!!!


----------



## kh971

Cline have you ever considered making the grill on the door panel bigger to allow more midbass come through?


----------



## Patrick Bateman

kh971 said:


> Cline have you ever considered making the grill on the door panel bigger to allow more midbass come through?


Midbass frequencies are extremely long - about twelve feet. A grill is 100% transparent at low frequencies.

In fact one way to increase output at low frequencies is to put something in front of the woofer. That's how slot loading increases bass.


----------



## jimmy713

Great Work!


----------



## titan 3

This thread is never ending! Nice work OP. :thumbsup:


----------



## lyndonboyd

Hello , I have designed this stealth enclosure for my 03 Dodge Ram. I couldn't find one to blend in with the factory interior so I built one. It fits 02-08 Dodge Rams. It is built out of molded fiberglass and 3/4 MDF and coated with bedliner material for a rock hard shell. It comes with all hardware required and you use your factory middle seat cover so it blends perfectly.This Esoteric Ram enclosure is as stealthy as they come with a clever design that replaces the lower center cushion of the Ram's front seat with a sealed subwoofer enclosure. Your factory upholstery covers the box for a perfect factory look.

The forward location and down-firing design of this Esoteric enclosure deliver amazing "up-front" bass presence and stunning impact at a fraction of the price of similar enclosures.

Features:

* Made from molded fiberglass and 3/4 mdf.

* Armor coated with bedliner material.

* Uses factory seat cover and armrest with no changes to original equipment.

* Bolts in place with six 5/16 steel bolts in factory location.

* 8" mounting depth for sub gives you almost unlimited options.

* .85 cuft

* Lower price than similar enclosures.

* Get 12", 10" or 8" hole in your enclosure.

* Hand made in the USA with hand laid fiberglass.

BoydAudioDesign.com


----------



## newtitan

man this is some spam BS, dont mess up a great thread, I hope the mods delete this crap


----------



## lyndonboyd

newtitan said:


> man this is some spam BS, dont mess up a great thread, I hope the mods delete this crap


Dude Iam just posting about a great DIY dodge build i made.
If you dont like it Great. That is whats this forum is for I think.


----------



## rexroadj

With all do respect boyd.......you are not posting about a great build, or so it does not seem. It appears you are looking for a shameless plug for the sale of a product you make. I am sure it is a great product, I have something extrememly similar in my own ram. However if you would like to post about "your" build then start your own thread to show everyone, or post an add for your enclosures in the classifieds section. Dont hijack someones thread that is clearly about showing his own work (amazing work at that) Not trying to be a jerk, that is what this forum is for, however not in someone elses thread!


----------



## mikey7182

lyndonboyd said:


> Dude Iam just posting about a great DIY dodge build i made.
> If you dont like it Great. That is whats this forum is for I think.


Start your own build log thread, and post all the pics you want in it. That's what a build log is- your very own personal thread to show your progress and work on your own vehicle. This isn't a generic Dodge Ram install thread; it's Dave's. If you want to show off your work, feel more than free. Just do it in your own thread.


----------



## lyndonboyd

You bet,
Sorry if i offended anybody.


----------



## rexroadj

I dont think anyone was offended. Just a mix up is all I think. I would like to see the boxes as I might want to change mine but do not have the time or patience to go through it again! I will pm you at some point to discuss further if you dont mind


----------



## tinctorus

Can I ask where you ordered the tech flex like that 
I have only found it by the foot and I would like to order the large package of it like you did


----------



## mikey7182

tinctorus said:


> Can I ask where you ordered the tech flex like that
> I have only found it by the foot and I would like to order the large package of it like you did


There's a cool guy on eBay that a lot of people here buy from. He will sell it to you in pretty much whatever lengths/colors/diameter combination you want, and his prices are fair. His seller name is furryletters.


----------



## tinctorus

mikey7182 said:


> There's a cool guy on eBay that a lot of people here buy from. He will sell it to you in pretty much whatever lengths/colors/diameter combination you want, and his prices are fair. His seller name is furryletters.


Hmm I will have to check him out and I apologize to the OP for asking where to get it as I realized AFTER I asked where he bougt it that he already posted it and I overlooked it lol
AWESOME JOB ON THE TRUCK BTW


----------



## King Nothing

mikey7182 said:


> There's a cool guy on eBay that a lot of people here buy from. He will sell it to you in pretty much whatever lengths/colors/diameter combination you want, and his prices are fair. His seller name is furryletters.


I LOVE furryletters LOL


----------



## rexroadj

Ok ? regarding the ported enclosure that is firing towards your dash.....Its probably a pretty dumb one but I have 0 shame! 
At any time did it cause any drink accidents in the cup holders? I am probably going to add a drz, or mx406, nak700 or something to that effect where the extra pocket is below the climate controls. (had the f1 setup up there a few years back) With a kenwood 8120 in the upper dash. I am just picturing my coffee going all over the place and ruining my deck because the port blew the top off? Just curious. Also would you recommend ported over sealed in general? I know there are several variables, but just in general in the ram? I have a sealed center downfiring that has been pretty good but I got the bug again


----------



## ClinesSelect

rexroadj said:


> Ok ? regarding the ported enclosure that is firing towards your dash.....Its probably a pretty dumb one but I have 0 shame!
> At any time did it cause any drink accidents in the cup holders? I am probably going to add a drz, or mx406, nak700 or something to that effect where the extra pocket is below the climate controls. (had the f1 setup up there a few years back) With a kenwood 8120 in the upper dash. I am just picturing my coffee going all over the place and ruining my deck because the port blew the top off? Just curious. Also would you recommend ported over sealed in general? I know there are several variables, but just in general in the ram? I have a sealed center downfiring that has been pretty good but I got the bug again


LOL. That is something no one has asked before. Good question. The amount of air being moved once you are more than a couple inches away from the port or vent is not enough to impact a drink in the cupholder. 

You should certainly try a vented enclosure in the center console. I have been happy with the results. While I do enjoy the W15GTi sealed I have in the center console now, the vented W12GTi was also a nice set up. I just need to build the vent larger next time as I getting a little vent noise once in a while. Sitting right under your arm it is more noticeable than if it was in the trunk of a car.


----------



## rexroadj

THANKS!!!!!!!! I have my favorite sub (nakamichi sp-w1200d) in a tiny sealed box and its o k. I figured since I was going to build a bigger box either way I would try it ported. Never had it in a ported box but heard it in one years ago. Very nice! I am leaning towards 1.5cuft at like 30hz.... The manual shows 36hz but that seams a little high to me... I tend to prefer lower tuned boxes....any thing I should keep in mind as far as cabin gain in this truck? I am also thinking about trying to put some 5.25s on the dash! I will post picks and reviews of it if I can make it work! I have had pretty good results on the dash with "most" components used.. My current helix rs dome mid and tweet are not working out right now in that location. I am just not at all a fan of kicks in my truck so I like to focus on the dash. I might just do a spz60 coax in the doors with a set of ambient tweet system in the pillars? It changes by the minute!


----------



## Fur Burger

Are you ready for my truck yet?


----------



## roxj01

how did you mod the rear seat back to fold down and up? does it stay in place securely when in the upright position?


----------



## ClinesSelect

roxj01 said:


> how did you mod the rear seat back to fold down and up? does it stay in place securely when in the upright position?


Remove the seat, remove the brackets on the back wall and install them upside down. If you still have the factory insulation on the back wall you will need to trim it a little. Bolt the seat back in and now the tabs on the back of the seat will slide out of the brackets when you raise the bottom of the seat and pull the top of the seat out. It stays very securely when upright.


----------



## roxj01

cool, thanks for the info that may give me something to do tomorrow


----------



## Chrisjbell

Oh, righteous! The new body Chevy crew cabs have the same kind of deal holding the rear seats up - looks almost identical. I might be able to use the same trick - I'll want the seats to fold forward, too, which they don't without removing the seats. Excellent!


----------



## brickie

Thanks for all the ideas! I love these Ram installs!


----------



## ClinesSelect

Patrick Bateman's thread on waveguides was a great read so I decided to try them myself. 

Had to buy a set of BMS 4540ND since all of the other compression drivers I have were too large to fit in the corners of the dash. 

Here are some of them compared to the BMS:




















Mocked up the dash with cardboard and then transferred that to MDF. For a waveguide I used a Dayton 4.5 x 4.5 elliptical waveguide which are designed for a 1" threaded compression driver so no adapter was needed. Chopped up the waveguide, used kitty hair to secure it to the baffle and then covered it with grill cloth.





















In the dash. It is mated up to the windshield and then matches the contours of the a-pillar. If I decide to keep them instead of the underdash horns, I will eventually build them into the pillars to make it all one piece.











Not surprisingly, stage height is eye level without any significant tuning.


----------



## ClinesSelect

As long as the garage was dirty, decided to build some new kicks for the JBL 2105h. Here it is compared to the JBL 500GTi:



















These are small enough to fit behind the stock kick panels so I opened up the area behind them to vent them into the quarter panels. These are the cosmetic panels that go on the outside of the kick panels. 



















Installed.











And then I decided to build a new center console. The enclosure for the W15GTi was a little too high so I went back to a vented W12GTi. More vent area and having the vent firing forward instead of to the rear is a definite improvement. 

Bad cell phone pics. Sorry.


----------



## Blazemore

Did you see a difference between the 2105 and 500GTi?


----------



## Riveted1

So, what do you think about the waveguides?


----------



## roxj01

what is the part number on the sem paint you used on the kicks? does it match the agate interior color pretty well?


----------



## newtitan

okay so you must have cut into the metal of the kick panel somehow correct? they look darn near flush thats rather impressive!!!

please do tell im curious

that waveguide idea looks cool by the way, that would be an awesome mold into the pillars once you get it done (assuming you stick with it)


----------



## ClinesSelect

Blazemore said:


> Did you see a difference between the 2105 and 500GTi?


The short answer is: the 500GTi is a slightly better choice than the 2105h, in my opinion. The 500GTi is a great mid. The 2105h just doesn't sound nearly as warm and natural as the 500GTi.




Riveted1 said:


> So, what do you think about the waveguides?


So far so good. Still have not had time to completely dial them in but, as far as staging is concerned, they are very good right out of the box. 




roxj01 said:


> what is the part number on the sem paint you used on the kicks? does it match the agate interior color pretty well?


None of the SEM paints match the interior worth a damn. They are either too dark or too light. You would be better off having a paint store color match and mix up some paint for you. The auto paint store near me charges $23 for a can of custom spray paint. 




newtitan said:


> okay so you must have cut into the metal of the kick panel somehow correct? they look darn near flush thats rather impressive!!!
> 
> please do tell im curious
> 
> that waveguide idea looks cool by the way, that would be an awesome mold into the pillars once you get it done (assuming you stick with it)



The 2105h have a mounting depth of 1.75" so they fit inside the OEM kick if you trim down the ridges on the inside of the kick. If you cut through the metal, it opens the area into the fender. If you relocate the wiring, you can build a wood or fiberglass enclosure over the hole you cut, attach it to the metal of the kick and then the OEM kick slides over the little box. You then cut the front of the OEM kick and install the carpeted panel onto the kick so you do not seen the hole and the speaker is protected. The carpeted panel is 0.5" MDF and does not interfere with the parking brake. 

With the last set of kicks, the parking brake was rendered useless (not that I have ever used it anyways). 

The waveguide would be easy to mold into the pillar and, obviously, you don't need a sealed or vented enclosure for a waveguide making it even easier.


----------



## HondAudio

ClinesSelect said:


> As long as the garage was dirty, decided to build some new kicks for the JBL 2105h. Here it is compared to the JBL 500GTi:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are small enough to fit behind the stock kick panels so I opened up the area behind them to vent them into the quarter panels. These are the cosmetic panels that go on the outside of the kick panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then I decided to build a new center console. The enclosure for the W15GTi was a little too high so I went back to a vented W12GTi. More vent area and having the vent firing forward instead of to the rear is a definite improvement.
> 
> Bad cell phone pics. Sorry.


Man, I gotta take a listen to this sometime. You're in the Phoenix area right?

-Matt


----------



## chithead

How do like the ported GTi versus the ported? My contemplation right now is whether to port or seal my W10GTi. I'd like to have the sub rear firing, and planned on having the port fire rear as well right below the subwoofer. But may switch to down firing...


----------



## ClinesSelect

HondAudio said:


> Man, I gotta take a listen to this sometime. You're in the Phoenix area right?
> 
> -Matt


I'm out in Surprise. 





chithead said:


> How do like the ported GTi versus the ported? My contemplation right now is whether to port or seal my W10GTi. I'd like to have the sub rear firing, and planned on having the port fire rear as well right below the subwoofer. But may switch to down firing...


The GTi is outstanding sealed or vented so you can't go wrong. After trying 30+ different enclosures and countless subs in this truck, to me, downfired produced the best results.


----------



## kh971

Cline, I myself have a 2003 Dodge CTD, and I always thought a horn would work on the dash if it was molded right. Looks great!!


----------



## Blazemore

Did you happen to put he L3's in the kick panels? If so compared to the 2105's.


----------



## ClinesSelect

No I did not try the L3 in the kicks. Just up on the dash. Personally, I would probably go with the L4 over the L3 since there is plenty of room in the kicks....unless someone already owns the L3.  

I ended building new kicks and going back to the 500GTi. They look the same except I used gray carpet to match the floor-mats instead of black which matched the carpet.


----------



## ClinesSelect

OT I know but I am not going to start a new build thread for 5 pics.  

Built this for my son's Nissan Frontier. The set up is an Alpine 9855 to an Eclipse XA4000. Up front are a pair of Phoenix Gold RSD comps (its been years since I have bought a pair of comps...these are pretty nice) and then two Tang Band 6.5" subs under the rear seat. 

This is JL Audio's Stealthbox. With all due respect to JL, this not very aesthetically pleasing as it bulges out from under the seat. 











This is 0.776 CF tuned to 38hz with a 3" Precision Port. 






































Nice and tight to the floor.


----------



## mattyjman

bump for updates 

I know you have gotten together with mike a few times, I'm gonna have to come out and see what you have brewing some time...  

But I hear you are working on some new stuff, what secrets are you ready to reveal?


----------



## King Nothing

ClinesSelect said:


> I'm out in Surprise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The GTi is outstanding sealed or vented so you can't go wrong. After trying 30+ different enclosures and countless subs in this truck, to me, downfired produced the best results.


Got any old enclosures laying around LOL? You do some great work


----------



## hcgalvin

This build thread is amazing. We never would have thought of putting the amps behind the back seat. I love it.


----------



## Charleston11

ClinesSelect said:


> OT I know but I am not going to start a new build thread for 5 pics.
> 
> Built this for my son's Nissan Frontier. The set up is an Alpine 9855 to an Eclipse XA4000. Up front are a pair of Phoenix Gold RSD comps (its been years since I have bought a pair of comps...these are pretty nice) and then two Tang Band 6.5" subs under the rear seat.
> 
> This is JL Audio's Stealthbox. With all due respect to JL, this not very aesthetically pleasing as it bulges out from under the seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is 0.776 CF tuned to 38hz with a 3" Precision Port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Nice and tight to the floor.



That is the coolest little enclosure. Absolutely love it!! Do the speakers get damaged at all?


----------



## Charleston11

Been awhile. Tell me more about the waveguides on the dash. Better alternative than the horns under the dash? I assume so since they are up near your ears and not aimed at your knees so you get the impact of a compression driver but with better staging than regular horns? I really like the center console with the GTi. Never even thought you could fit one in a Ram, especially not ported. Nice work once again. 

I love your JBL collection. What all do you have? Any new stuff?


----------



## stills

super thread man! lots of GOOD pics.

thats one of the more stock appearing center consoles i've seen. damn nice.

thanks for sharin'


----------



## vabch22

This thread is awesome man, thanks for sharing. It will help me a lot trying to figure out how to do my 2008 Ram 1500 QC. I can tell I'm already going to use your amp rack idea.  Also the rear seat fold down mod is great. Hopefully that will work for me. I was trying to find small amps, but now that will not be an issue allowing me to save money.


----------



## TimesCaptured

I have an 03 Ram Quad and always wondered what could have been. I recently fell into relapse and am now back into car audio after a 13 year layoff. Wow has time passed. This has given m einspiration thanks to all.


----------



## eviling

jeus christ so much testing, where do you find all this free time? and moneyf or that matter holy hell. you bout 6 zapco amps because you were board wtf


----------



## TimesCaptured

eviling said:


> jeus christ so much testing, where do you find all this free time? and moneyf or that matter holy hell. you bout 6 zapco amps because you were board wtf


LMAO

I told my wife either this is a Pilot or a drug dealer..... j/k


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## Lou E

Found this install, and site, through a Google search and had to sign up just to compliment you on your amazing attention to detail and craftsmanship, I'm floored! 

Although it is far beyond anything I would ever do, I'm looking forward to more updates.


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## Big D

This is a very nice install!!!!


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## Big D

Hey ClinesSelect. I backfired my 15 and kind of felt like I was getting some bass cancelation or something. Not really the out put I get when I lay box on back seat and fire sub at passenger rear door. Not sure what is up. Anyway, I would like to down fire it and I was curious how you built your box and bolted it to your factory supports that held your oem console? My 15 is larger than my center to center is on my brackets so sub would need to be held up off of brackets somehow and still be able to bolt box down. Did you have this problem? Thanks


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## ClinesSelect

Charleston11 said:


> That is the coolest little enclosure. Absolutely love it!! Do the speakers get damaged at all?


Thanks. I modified a bar grill to protect them. There are four horizontal black roundtube bars protecting them. 




Charleston11 said:


> Been awhile. Tell me more about the waveguides on the dash. Better alternative than the horns under the dash? I assume so since they are up near your ears and not aimed at your knees so you get the impact of a compression driver but with better staging than regular horns? I really like the center console with the GTi. Never even thought you could fit one in a Ram, especially not ported. Nice work once again.
> 
> I love your JBL collection. What all do you have? Any new stuff?


I still have the waveguides on the dash, I have just modified them a little to round off the leading edge. I have a bunch of JBL stuff, too much to remember off the top of my head.




Lou E said:


> Found this install, and site, through a Google search and had to sign up just to compliment you on your amazing attention to detail and craftsmanship, I'm floored!
> 
> Although it is far beyond anything I would ever do, I'm looking forward to more updates.



Thank you for the kind words.




Big D said:


> Hey ClinesSelect. I backfired my 15 and kind of felt like I was getting some bass cancelation or something. Not really the out put I get when I lay box on back seat and fire sub at passenger rear door. Not sure what is up. Anyway, I would like to down fire it and I was curious how you built your box and bolted it to your factory supports that held your oem console? My 15 is larger than my center to center is on my brackets so sub would need to be held up off of brackets somehow and still be able to bolt box down. Did you have this problem? Thanks


I tried front, rear and up-firing and had very similar experiences. You can fit is one of two ways; if the outer diameter of the sub is not too large, you can trim the edges of the mounting brackets so the sub fits between the brackets. That worked well with an ID IDQ15v2. Or you can elevate the enclosure up above the rear brackets. The enclosure bolts to the front mounting brackets and rests on the top of the rear cupholder (in a quadcab). I then used flatbar to strap the rear of the enclosure to the holes in the sides of the rear mounting brackets. It makes the enclosure a little tall so it doesn't work with tall subs. 





Something just for fun....I had four JBL 500GTi so I decided to try dual mids in each kick. The 1" MDF baffle is bolted into place and the area behind the kicks is still vented into the firewalls. The rear of the baffle is angled in a little.


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## dodgeman70592

Awesome work, really keeps me motivated!

I have a couple of questions (forgive me if you have answered this previously)

1) How do you like the Rammat and Ensolite in regard to application and performance? Do you find it to be effective for road noises.

2) Of the many subs and enclosures you have used, have you ever tried a 10W7 ported? I am about to try myself and wondering if you had any suggestions on the design.

3) Running just a front stage with sub(s), would you say rear fill is definetely not needed whatsoever in that large of a cabin?

Thank you for your time,

Jared


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## jkill1029

Those dual woofer kick panels are awesome. What do you do with the parking brake lever? I am considering something similar, but couldn't come up with a new location...

J


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## ClinesSelect

dodgeman70592 said:


> Awesome work, really keeps me motivated!
> 
> I have a couple of questions (forgive me if you have answered this previously)
> 
> 1) How do you like the Rammat and Ensolite in regard to application and performance? Do you find it to be effective for road noises.
> 
> 2) Of the many subs and enclosures you have used, have you ever tried a 10W7 ported? I am about to try myself and wondering if you had any suggestions on the design.
> 
> 3) Running just a front stage with sub(s), would you say rear fill is definetely not needed whatsoever in that large of a cabin?
> 
> Thank you for your time,
> 
> Jared



1) Rather ineffective for road noise. I have a MLV on top of the ensolite. Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

2) JL makes some very nice products, including the 10w7. I have a 12w7. The enclosure specs in the w7 manual are a great starting point and then build your enclosure to fit between the seats. I would recommend a front facing port or vent. 1.5 CF would be an easy fit. 

3) Rear fill is not needed. If you had a MS-8 it would be fun to experiment with however. 




jkill1029 said:


> Those dual woofer kick panels are awesome. What do you do with the parking brake lever? I am considering something similar, but couldn't come up with a new location...
> 
> J


It was disconnected back when I had underdash horns to get the horn bodies as far outside as possible.


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## Patrick Bateman

ClinesSelect said:


> Patrick Bateman's thread on waveguides was a great read so I decided to try them myself.
> 
> Had to buy a set of BMS 4540ND since all of the other compression drivers I have were too large to fit in the corners of the dash.
> 
> Here are some of them compared to the BMS:
> 
> 
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> 
> Mocked up the dash with cardboard and then transferred that to MDF. For a waveguide I used a Dayton 4.5 x 4.5 elliptical waveguide which are designed for a 1" threaded compression driver so no adapter was needed. Chopped up the waveguide, used kitty hair to secure it to the baffle and then covered it with grill cloth.
> 
> 
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> 
> In the dash. It is mated up to the windshield and then matches the contours of the a-pillar. If I decide to keep them instead of the underdash horns, I will eventually build them into the pillars to make it all one piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Not surprisingly, stage height is eye level without any significant tuning.


Guess who's better at fabrication?









lol it's embarassing how bad I am at finishing projects properly


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## ClinesSelect

Patrick Bateman said:


> Guess who's better at fabrication?
> 
> 
> lol it's embarassing how bad I am at finishing projects properly


But think how inspirational your ideas are?  


Here is the new smoothed out version. 













And the dual mid kicks.


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## Rogue1970

Awesome build for sure! I was reading this thread a few years ago when I was looking for ideas for my F250 build. Thanks to you and other members, I came up to speed on modern car audio quickly.

Again, great info on this thread and here at DIYMA!


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## chad y

Hey Deka,

Nice to see your still at it. I have loved following your builds.


Chad y


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## ocblaze

I have a couple questions for ya if you don't mind,

1. Which model horns do you feel performed the best

2. Which "tweeter" fit the horns the best

3. Would you suggest those 18 sound mids, where did you get your 4 ohm version from?


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## ClinesSelect

ocblaze said:


> I have a couple questions for ya if you don't mind,
> 
> 1. Which model horns do you feel performed the best
> 
> 2. Which "tweeter" fit the horns the best
> 
> 3. Would you suggest those 18 sound mids, where did you get your 4 ohm version from?


1. The modified ID full size bodies were my favorite. The USD horns are thin and sounded better with some cut up CLD tiles to mass load them. The mini-body ID bodies are nice but don't play as low as the full size, obviously. The Veritas bodies required very little EQ. 

2. Compression drivers are much like conventional tweeters in that they come in different sizes, reproduce different frequency ranges and have their own unique sound. To say which compression driver is "best" is like stating which tweeter is "best". 1" compression drivers fit on the standard horn bodies. 

3. They are 8 ohms. The 4 ohm version required a $2,500 minimum purchase. There is certainly no need for the 4 ohm version especially considering the sensitivity of the driver.


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## Chaos

This work that must have gone into this install is rather fascinating. I cannot imagine putting that much time into one vehicle, unless it was exclusively a show truck. I'm impressed.


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## dubbs52

hi great build... how did you get your door panels back on?


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## TimesCaptured

Those double woofer kicks are the shizit.

Can you please post pics of the magic behind the grill installation for the kicks?


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## ClinesSelect

Chaos said:


> This work that must have gone into this install is rather fascinating. I cannot imagine putting that much time into one vehicle, unless it was exclusively a show truck. I'm impressed.


Thank you 




dubbs52 said:


> hi great build... how did you get your door panels back on?


You have to remove one of the mounting tabs on the door and it fits great. Even with 1" MDF baffles. 





TimesCaptured said:


> Those double woofer kicks are the shizit.
> 
> Can you please post pics of the magic behind the grill installation for the kicks?


Thanks. Sorry but I didn't take any additional photos. "L" brackets secure them to the vehicle, the area behind the stock kicks was cleared of the wires and holes cut to vent them.


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## Blazemore

I like to know where you keep finding JBL 500GTi mids, can't find a set. Still using the 2118's?


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## Cruzer

i wish i could do the stuff u can. i have a Mitsubishi raider, which is the same thing as a dodge dakota. there is no room under the seats for subs at all.

behind the seats i might be able to fit 8s, which i might try at some point. currently i just have 10s in a box in the back seat, that fly around if i drive crazy.

i would love to do a single 12 in the console area, but i have no ability to do it and make it look right. it would just be a box with some carpet. would lose my cup holders and it wouldnt be soft.

nice work though, ive showed plenty of people this thread and the work and all was amazed.


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## ClinesSelect

Blazemore said:


> I like to know where you keep finding JBL 500GTi mids, can't find a set. Still using the 2118's?



I only have the four. As you said, they are impossible to find. Currently I am using the 18Sound mids as I like them better than the 2118 in a three-way front set up. 





Cruzer said:


> i wish i could do the stuff u can. i have a Mitsubishi raider, which is the same thing as a dodge dakota. there is no room under the seats for subs at all.
> 
> behind the seats i might be able to fit 8s, which i might try at some point. currently i just have 10s in a box in the back seat, that fly around if i drive crazy.
> 
> i would love to do a single 12 in the console area, but i have no ability to do it and make it look right. it would just be a box with some carpet. would lose my cup holders and it wouldnt be soft.
> 
> nice work though, ive showed plenty of people this thread and the work and all was amazed.



You do have the ability to build one, just take your time. MDF and fiberglass supplies are relatively inexpensive. If you mess up, keep trying as that is the fun part.


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## Mixerdriver

subscribed


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## jus199

excellent job


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## diebenkorn

What are your crossover points for the waveguides?


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## ClinesSelect

diebenkorn said:


> What are your crossover points for the waveguides?


They are currently high passed at 3,000hz/24dB. I have had them as low as 2,000.


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## diebenkorn

Could you describe the sound differences or what you like don't like etc. between the waveguides on the dash and the horns underneath.


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## MRKBass

Wowsers! Incredible build! I just dug out a bunch of goodies that have been sitting in the closet now that you have inspired me to start tinkering with my 03 2500 reg cab. Love the 8's in the door. Gonna have to do that and I want to move my hertz 6.5 comps to kicks and maybe I could lean on you for enclosure suggestions for this...
Great job


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## TigreST

Just starting to think about a 03 Dodge Quad Cab rear wall amp mount. ClineS,..can you relate any dimensional data as to the size of your MDF rear wall mount please? I read 5/8's stock was used. Other numbers you may have stated already...maybe I missed it. Beautiful work btw. My install will be extremely "entry level" by comparison.

Tony


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## ClinesSelect

TigreST said:


> Just starting to think about a 03 Dodge Quad Cab rear wall amp mount. ClineS,..can you relate any dimensional data as to the size of your MDF rear wall mount please? I read 5/8's stock was used. Other numbers you may have stated already...maybe I missed it. Beautiful work btw. My install will be extremely "entry level" by comparison.
> 
> Tony


It is approximately 16" tall and 56" in length. If you use 5/8" it will slide behind the plastic panels on each sides so you don't see the ends. You can see the plastic panel on the right side.


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## fish

diebenkorn said:


> Could you describe the sound differences or what you like don't like etc. between the waveguides on the dash and the horns underneath.


Yes, Clines, if you could give some feedback on this it would be appreciated. Between your build log & Patrick's threads there's not much out there to go on.

Also, do you have any pics from outside your truck viewing the rear of the waveguide on your pillars/dash?

Everything's wonderful in this thread.


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## jakobrmc

Great thread. Inspired me to dabble with making my own sub enclosure for my ram.


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## ClinesSelect

fish said:


> Yes, Clines, if you could give some feedback on this it would be appreciated. Between your build log & Patrick's threads there's not much out there to go on.
> 
> Also, do you have any pics from outside your truck viewing the rear of the waveguide on your pillars/dash?
> 
> Everything's wonderful in this thread.


They sound like compression drivers on the dash instead of at your knees.  

The downside is that the BMS drivers do not play low enough to use in a two-way so I am using the dual mids and single midbass per side. The BMS drivers do however play the upper frequency range better than the other compression drivers I have. The staging is just below the rearview mirror with minimal tuning. I am using the reticulated foam as Patrick did on his HOMster. 

I do not have any photos of the outside however I used black carpeting, which matches the Dashmat, to fill in the area between the pillar and the baffle. Since it is in a truck, you are not looking down at it from the outside. Even if you were, it is not very noticeable. 

If you have more questions, please let me know.


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## depunz

Awesome build. I was going to go with the standard under the back seat box but you've inspired me to try something in the console. Thanks.
Sean


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## sydmonster

still lorvin this ever evolving build! one of my DIYMA favs!


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## Fur Burger

Looks good.


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## rllnsmk

can you take a picture of ure back seat setup with the seats installed and the seats up... im trying to get ideas for my truck. I think i saw ure truck today at litchfield and waddel heading west


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## roxj01

rllnsmk said:


> can you take a picture of ure back seat setup with the seats installed and the seats up... im trying to get ideas for my truck. I think i saw ure truck today at litchfield and waddel heading west


i did the same mod to my backseat too. do you want pics with the bottom of the seats folded up or of the seatbacks folded down?


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## Kane

I love this thread!


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## richiec77

You make me feel lazy!

Awesome...no more like Epic! I don't think I've owned that much stereo gear in my life let alone installed in 1 vehicle. And it's helping me with planning for the next instal which is horns/HLCD's.

In a 3-way you said the 18 sound is the better Mid-bass. In a 2-way set-up is the 2118H the better Mid-bass? And if it is is it due to better performance in the upper-end of it's bandpass range?


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## myhikingboots

subscribed! Nice work.


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## liljohn30

i joined this site just for this thread,lol i was considering a center console box,i pm you clines to see if you build this box and sell them it would be easier that way


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## rex450se

Want to come do my 2002 Ram quad cab? Your truck is amazing. Subscribed for sure.


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## DeanE10

Doesn't look like much has changed in a while...? I have a 2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab and will be starting this project as well... Thanks for the inspiration, tons of fantastic ideas here!


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## Blazemore

Yeah David not much on here anymore. Don't know where he's hiding.


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## Durzil

Great thread even if it's old! Lots of great info here. I just acquired an '06 dodge ram quad cab and will be pursuing building a sub enclosure in place of the center seat with the console attached. Just wanted to thank all those who have contributed.


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## DeanE10

Durzil said:


> Great thread even if it's old! Lots of great info here. I just acquired an '06 dodge ram quad cab and will be pursuing building a sub enclosure in place of the center seat with the console attached. Just wanted to thank all those who have contributed.


Lots of quad cab builds here... Looking forward to what you come up with


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## TheyCallMeMEAT

Best thread I've ever read! 

Curious about sealing off the back vents! Has anyone done this? If so, what problems have you encountered? 

I've already welded one... thinking about doing the other one too. 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


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## TheyCallMeMEAT

just getting started...


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## DeanE10

These are pressure vents... When I covered mine my ears would pop real bad... Some complained when I closed the doors... I had to uncover them.... Maybe leave that one open...


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## richiec77

TheyCallMeMEAT said:


> Best thread I've ever read!
> 
> Curious about sealing off the back vents! Has anyone done this? If so, what problems have you encountered?
> 
> I've already welded one... thinking about doing the other one too.
> 
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


DO NOT COVER THEM BOTH!! Your Ear drums will thank you whenever you turn on the AC/Heat and close any doors. You have to have an ability to vent to the outside to equalize pressure.


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## TheyCallMeMEAT

That's what I was afraid of. My original plan was to leave one open, but since I've welded one side, the other whistles with the AC on. Very annoying! That's what prompted me to weld both. 

Hopefully once I dynamat and finish my back panel that whistle will be gone! 

Thanks for the feedback!


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## Durzil

Hey Dean do you think the floor of these trucks really needs to be deadened? I have recently been recommended not to worry about it as they are "highly reinforced already" and to just do the doors, thought? I'm planning on doing a downward firing 12" in the center console location.


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## DeanE10

Durzil said:


> Hey Dean do you think the floor of these trucks really needs to be deadened? I have recently been recommended not to worry about it as they are "highly reinforced already" and to just do the doors, thought? I'm planning on doing a downward firing 12" in the center console location.


Yessir, if they didn't need it the factory wouldn't do it Boss... 

Large area's need it for sure, floors included, it does make a difference, I promise! My truck takes 125 - 130 SQ Ft including the doors, Single layer on most areas


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## DeanE10

TheyCallMeMEAT said:


> That's what I was afraid of. My original plan was to leave one open, but since I've welded one side, the other whistles with the AC on. Very annoying! That's what prompted me to weld both.
> 
> Hopefully once I dynamat and finish my back panel that whistle will be gone!
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!


Try putting some foam over it... NOT Closed Cell, something that can breathe, it will help.


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## Got-Four-Eights

I tried blocking mine and got hte ear popping as well... sucks


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## sweefu

I'm blown away by this build, first class DIY work with amazing gear and fun ideas which aren't seen so often recently. Great work! I love your build.

I don't suppose this truck is still getting around? Been a while since last update.


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## SciPunk

I don't know where he is, hope he is OK. 
This is what his profile says:
Last Activity: 06-27-2011 

Such a fantastic build and the work quality is amazing.


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## drhavy

I really like the horns. Does anyone know where to find thes horns on the net?


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## mikey7182

Dave used Image Dynamics fullsize lenses. I now have the modded pair with the PVC rollover, but you can buy the ID lenses all over, including on this forum in the Classifieds.


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## LaydSierra

Did anyone happen to save the pics of this build? I've been digging through old threads & seen this thread mentioned a few times & would like to check it out. Thanks


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