# BMW X5 F15 Install - Eton, JL Audio with 3D Prints



## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Another vehicle… another build/install log lol. This X5 F15 one is a newer version of my previous X5 E70 vehicle… so, some parts from there work here too (recycled/reuse my own gear). It took over a year to get these installed 

Here’s two recent photos of the vehicle. Has plenty of features. The dealer also installed the MPPK (tune) and MPE (exhaust) sometime ago.









This is the picture of the rear with all the stereo parts installed. The rear suspension didn’t sag because it has the Adaptive M suspension with rear air bags and self-levelling.










Here are just some random pictures of the screen/display. We can get navigation, music, video, internet news, sports gauges, etc on it.


























The big knob on the center console is to pick the features or audio/video tracks…










The steering wheel has some controls for the stereo too (no big deal).










This one is interesting  … when we use the steering wheel controls, the audio stuff is projected on the windshield (head-up display). Normally we just see the speed/navigation info there.










The headunit is the latest option 688 Harmon/Kardon with a big amp and many speakers. Has DSP and Logic 7 too. It’s plenty loud for a mini concert.


















The first thing I did a year ago after getting the vehicle is the license plate mod.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

To make it sound clearer I changed all the 16 speakers. Already had most speakers from the last vehicle… just re-installed it here. Here’re the empty boxes lol.










Had to buy the new Eton B100W2 speakers for the front doors because the mount/shape is different from the previous vehicle. The Eton B100W2 is made for this vehicle/series.


































The center channel is the Eton B100N and it looks like this.









Decided to make new brackets for the center channel. This is to angle/point the tweeter at the people (not point at the mirror/windshield/roof). Also, it’s to point/guide it out from under the grill.

































Had to trim the factory foam under the grill because it’s not as transparent as we think. After modifying (removing the foam works too) the middle of the 7-snare imaging/test track sounds well anchored in the middle of the dash/windshield. Other beats are all nicely spread across the dash/windshield. This multi-channel setup is for all seats/all passengers… not just the driver or having to sit too far back.


















After modifying to fit and sanding/painting the top surface … it looks like this after installation (next picture below). 

All the various 3D printed parts in this vehicle are the nylon type that can withstand high temperature, etc. These are printed by Shapeways using their SLS (selective laser sintering) machines (professional/commercial equipment, not the home/toy 3D printers).










Next is underseat speakers. These are located under both front seats. There’s a tunnel/line going down the cavity that ends up somewhere else in the vehicle. I just used 4 paint cans to prop up the seat (don’t have to take the seats out of the vehicle). These are the Eton B150USB bass speakers here (using it as midbass, will describe more later in another section). The black brackets are the factory ones.


























































Now to the rear door speakers. They are supposed to use the same type as the front doors (Eton B100W2). Since I already have the Eton B100N I just designed some speaker rings/brackets to make the B100N emulate the B100W2 form-factor. There’s a notch on one lower side for the speaker cable/wire to escape. 


















The 3D prints that came back from Shapeways….


















Into the rear doors….
The tweeters are next to the speakers (forgot to take photos of many tweeters).


































The rear D-pillars have speakers too and it’s the Eton B100N model here.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

To add an amp, we’ll need the Technic cables because it plugs right in and works without modifying the factory harness. He sent over this set of cables/parts. It’s easy to install and setup since he provided all the instructions too.










I saw the extra connector in the Technic set and this is to amplify the front underseat speakers (bass/midbass). That will be way too handy ha ha… and here’s the JL Audio HX280 amp for the underseat midbass speakers!!










Looking for a place to put the LOC and amp. It’s in the same corner next to the factory amp. I found some attachment points suitable to put a bracket/frame for these parts. 










With some crude measurements from the above corner I came up with an assembly drawing. This assembly has all the parts in there.










After hiding the various components/parts, the thick custom steel bracket looks like this below. The irregular/strange shape is to clear the various metal parts/structure in the car body/area, and also to fit the new add-on parts.










There are many PEM fasteners/nuts on the custom bracket for the screws/parts.










The custom bracket arrived and did a test fit… surprisingly it works without any modifications. The metal house/supplier powder coated it black per the design specs/drawing.


















Next is to use some card/paper to find the exact mounting point for the bottom part of the main bracket. This can only be done with the actual bracket that just arrived.










Designed the new metal bracket…










The Shapeways people printed this too. This was 3D printed in stainless steel/alloy, and with a black finish as a secondary process.










Also fits perfectly and attaches to the point on the car body….










Under the main bracket I put a secret switch to disable the subwoofer/amp. It’s for service/valet reason.










The custom cover arrived and it looks like this. The holes are in case the parts get hot and for vent purpose. But the JL doesn’t get hot even after an hour of use.










The inside looks like this rendering. The irregular shape is for strength and to clear the various audio parts.



















There are 2 level controllers hiding in there. These are the set-and-forget type. One controller is for the subwoofer (will describe in another section later), and the other controller is for the JL Audio amp (easier to reach/adjust this PAC level controller than the JL ones hiding behind/inside the amp). Both controllers have different knobs and I just designed two new ones so that they both look alike. The red one is for the subwoofer (Eton ECS 1200.1 amp with JL Audio 13TW5v2-2), and the blue one is for the midbass (JL Audio HX280/4 amp, for the Eton B150USB front underseat speakers doing the midbass duty). There's plenty of strong upfront bass for sure). Then there’s that yellow thing and it’s just a spacer so that both knobs line up horizontally (because these 2 boxes are different shapes/sizes).


















The 3D parts arrived and they look like this…



















At the back of the main assembly, at the side, there’s a gap for the cables to enter/exit. There are square mounts and more custom brackets for cable management (places to zip tie or hang cables so that they look neat/hidden). 










The custom U- and J-shaped bracket are here in these photos…


















There are three 1/4”-20 screws for the main assembly and another two 1/4”-20 connecting bolts for the cover.










Everything fits well in that corner.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

The AGM battery is in the trunk and nearby it there’s a spot at the distribution block to hook up 12V power. There’s a large storage bin/bucket near it and this means we’ll have to make it right-angle. So, here’s a little box to get power for the amps/etc and to insulate/hide the connections.


























That thick aluminum piece is a leftover from another project…. cut/trimmed it to the correct shape for use here.










That little black box/enclosure is a Hammond part from Digikey. 


















This is how it looks like after install. The various fuses are near there too.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Here’s the last section and it’s about the subwoofer box. I took the old box (from previous vehicle) and modified it to fit a new Eton ECS 1200.1 amp (just had to try it ha ha). The 13.5” subwoofer is the same JL Audio 13TW5v2-2 as before.

Here’s the updated enclosure design…










Then started modifying it to match the new design….


































Also put in a new top surface too.










A quick raw test fit ….










There’s a new RJ12 Leviton port for the Eton ECS 1200.1 amp (the remote level controller extension cable plugs in here).










On both sides of the amp there are channels/tunnels for cable management. The RCA-type audio and level-controller cables to pass thru the two channels here. Also, these cables all become hidden from view when the top cover is over it.










Made a new top cover for this box too…


















The gap at both sides of the amp are for the heatsink (cooling/breathing purpose). The extra little horizontal blocks there is just for visual purpose (so that it doesn’t look like there are 2 big long holes lol). This Eton amp doesn’t get hot even after an hour of use.


















This is the bottom side of the cover. There are some 3M rubber bump-on stuff here. This is so that the cover does not stick to the main box! That happened with my previous box/vehicle… the paint on one side sticks to the paint on the other side…. so, the 3M rubber foam here is to keep them apart.


























This is the top bar for the rear part, and all the main parts after modifications.


















These are the various paint stuff. First I brushed it black (several thin layers). Then sprayed the black stone texture (several layers). After that, several light layers of clear coat too.


































Also decided to add more braces inside the box.









There’s some fiberglass wool in there too.










The volume excluding the speaker is 1.078 cu.ft. (already deducted all the braces and large parts inside).










The various electrical connections are at the back.










The top bar at the back has 2 purposes. One is to cover the electrical connections even though they are insulated. The other purpose is to provide the proper space/height for securing the box to the vehicle. 










The top cover uses the same connecting bolts as the JL Audio amp assembly earlier. These bolts are recessed to look neat.










Somewhere along the way had to drill 4 new holes to mount the box. This is so that the box is secure and doesn’t slide or move. The box actually sits on the floor (not lifted up by the bolts).










This is the 5th bolt and to hold down a spare tire (don’t have a spare tire). Had to cut a hole on the carpet/felt for the M8 screw to clear.










All together there are 5 screws to hold down the box. Four are the 1/4” type and the 5th one is an 8-mm bolt. This 5th bolt goes in before the subwoofer/speaker.










After it’s installed, the subwoofer box looks like this…


















After the cargo cover is closed, everything is hidden!










Bye. Thanks for reading!


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Increadible


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Speechless! As beautiful an install as the car.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Holy cow!!!!...can look at this thread all day.Simply stunning work.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey guys, thank you all for your kind words!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

stunning!!!


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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

Amazing... Great work! :thumbsup:


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

Awesome integration!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey there everyone, thank you too for your kind words!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I've always loved the approach and execution on your builds Phil. Very nicely done, once again. I would love to check this out in person some time. Where are you in CA?

You didn't reuse the DSP 8 CAN that you had in your previous build? I appreciate that you have gone out of your way to bring the Eton equipment over from Europe. Do you go through Extreme Audio?


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hi Dustin, thanks too! I'm located in Di... wait a minute i'm not supposed to tell everyone ha ha (will pm you and will be happy to meet you whenever I see you). Yeah... I didn't reuse the DSP8CAN since this thing has the logic 7 already and the time alignment should be ok. The interface is different too (fiber optic) and it wouldn't quite work. The new RTA scan looks fine too with no big dips/peaks that I would object. The band/bark to band/bark test on an autosound/something test disc sounds fine/balanced too since the tweeters and mids are all matched pairs. Will keep the DSP8CAN for the other bimmer but i'm kinda lazy with that car. Anyways yes many of these Eton parts are from Extreme Audio and i've also ordered from a different store there too. Thanks!


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

Speachless... Very nice attention to detail!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thank you Carl!


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

OEM+


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## Elgrosso (Jun 15, 2013)

Superb! Very nice to see this kind of work.
Are you a mix of engineer and designer? I mean it's well thought, built, and shaped, too bad this is hidden.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thanks guys!
@Elgrosso, yeah but it's supposed to be hidden since it's often out in different parking lots everywhere. anyways i'm sometimes kinda mixed like that (tech factory director).


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I finally got around to put in a new power terminal/block last weekend. The previous one worked fine but it just didn’t look good lol.

Old messy one:










The new one is a custom CNC block with a couple of set screws:














































Thanks for checking it out!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Absolutely, incredible, stunning, superb, tremendous, terrific, just, WOW!!! I am in awe. The attention to detail is absolutely a game changer for sure. Like a dream install right here!!!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thank you chithead! hey, that's too many words to describe an install lol!


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

Bravo, now this is how it's done!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

yea... thank you GreatLaBroski!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Nicely done Phil. Your attention to detail and execution are always top notch. 

Are you still in CA? Any chance you'll come hang out at (and bring the BMW to) MECA State Finals in SLO?


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thank you Dustin! My bimmer will be out of place there - it looks just like factory stereo lol!! Thanks for the invite/thoughts. It turns out I actually can't make it there on the Sept 22/23 weekend. I got home and the boss here told me we're going to Monterey Bay or Carmel by the Sea on that weekend. So maybe we can all meet in the next gathering!


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

Yo I’m so upset I didn’t see this build already, I need to get out more. Beautiful! Love the CAD work and the detailed, mathematical approach to everything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bboy33 (Mar 22, 2012)

Just WAOUH !


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

diy.phil said:


> Thank you Dustin! My bimmer will be out of place there - it looks just like factory stereo lol!! Thanks for the invite/thoughts. It turns out I actually can't make it there on the Sept 22/23 weekend. I got home and the boss here told me we're going to Monterey Bay or Carmel by the Sea on that weekend. So maybe we can all meet in the next gathering!


Sounds like we have similar bosses. Enjoy Monterey/Carmel. We were actually there last week for a comp/g2g. The bosses bone stock Mazda wasn’t out of place at all, and I even put it through the lanes. 

Oh, and when you’re in Monterey... Acme for coffee, 7D for dinner and Revival for ice cream.  I’m sure Dominic (golden ear) would have other suggestions, since he is local.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

WhereAmEye? and bboy33, thanks for the kind words!

Dustin, lol you put a stock car thru the lanes?! Thanks and ok i have those names/places saved on the phone and will check it out when there!


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## adrianp89 (Oct 14, 2007)

Jesus Christ man - you are on a whole another level.

Seriously - are you Tony Stark? This is about where I think you are at lol.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

oh no Adrian, i'm not Tony Stark in any shape or form lol! Thanks for the kind words!


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Absolutely marvelous work! I couldn't imagine the resources that are required for this build but I'd sure like to have them. That is top-notch work you must be commended sir.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## Smash (Oct 4, 2011)

Nice job. Quick question on your 3d renderings. Are you measuring every piece out and drawing or 3d scanning or some other form of wizardry?


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## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Haven't seen your build until now. Really nice OEM build! 3D prints and ETON stuff go hand in hand you know...


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey guys, thank you very much for all the kind words!
@knever3, actually not much resources needed... just bunch of basic or common tools (nothing out of the ordinary).
@Smash, I just measure/draw the items since that's most precise and compact a file will be. For items like special fonts, i'll just scan it on a regular 2D flatbed scanner or use the picture in their literature/manual and then convert it to clean/simplified .dwg lines. Some items/dimension are shown in specs and i'll just use those too. Some fasteners have its IGES/STEP files but i don't like to use them (too many lines, bogs down the laptop on a large assembly... so i'll just make my own simplified models/fasteners). An item like the Hammond enclosure (for the power block) came with a solid file... just edit/use it.
@Han, yeah all of us ETON people indeed do that!!


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## SQBMWX1 (Jan 15, 2017)

Nice to see another x5 f15 build. Good job!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Small updates here. I finally got around to swap the Eton level controller. The original one behaved like a peak/parametric type. The replacement PAC LC-1 is a plain level type and does what I want it to do. Also made/ordered a small bracket for it since the dimension is slightly different (less wide, to fit in the existing PEM nuts/holes on the main bracket). Also ordered a new/custom yellow knob for the Eton side.

While at it, I also put in a pair of inline Harrison FMOD filters for the JL midbass amp. This way I don’t have to use the EQ to trim the upper mid-bass region. It’s a bandpass now.

Also put in some custom labels for both of these level controllers. Then adjusted everything and put everything back together.





































Thanks for checking out this thread!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Bump

If all the pictures above or in the previous page disappear (new photobucket limit issue) please let me know and maybe I can update the links (unsure). All the pictures on this build thread have been uploaded to https://postimg.cc/gallery/2opd3d9v2/ and this is an alternative postimages.org picture hosting website. (I hope this new link works… dunno… no idea…will find out soon lol)

Anyways the new pictures below is using the postimage.org site too…


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I was looking for a small EQ/DSP to tweak and make my own house curve lol. Didn’t see anything small enough… then I figured hey why not just go make one! I’ve done several boards… should be easy enough. I just liked to have a few frequencies to adjust but decided to do the entire 20-200Hz range while at it. 

The circuit has my usual automotive power/load safety considerations. It also has a dual output DC-DC block. This is an isolated power module is so that we don’t get any alternator whining. Has enough headroom of about 8Vrms. Drafted the schematics and followed by a PCB layout…. and then we have this on the screen…



Then I hit the 3D render button in the PCB layout software and it gave me this…




At the same time also designed a metal enclosure for this module…


All the parts arrived from various suppliers. The cell phone in the foreground is just a reference to show this PCB/box is quite small…


I soldered all the small SMT parts first and followed by the larger or taller components. Then ran various tests for several days at home.


Also stuck some labels/markings on the enclosure.


The solder side PCBA looks like this in the enclosure.


It looks like this when assembled…


It fits in the lower part of my current bracket/mini-rack…


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

After a week or two at home it still didn’t smoke… so I installed in the vehicle. It actually has been in use in the vehicle for several weeks. Tuning is way too easy… just pick a frequency and turn the knob. It’s the +-12db type.


Also updated the front cover to hide everything. Now this cover taller to hide the module at the bottom. Had this cover 3D printed using the same material that can withstand high temperature for automotive use.






These are just the various 1/4-20 fasteners for the new cover and mini-rack…


Here’s how it looks like in the vehicle…


Thanks for checking out this thread!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

That is awesome Phil!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

thank you Dustin!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Gosh, I'm almost embarrassed just to comment on how amazing your installation is!!! This is incredible!!!


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Well now I'm late for work. But it was worth it. This is top notch work Phil.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey guys, thanks for the kind words!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Wow dude, amazing work! I'm going to go look through it all over again...


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

I quit, you win. I'm taking my ball and going home. Lol. Amazing work.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey guys, thanks! You guys, everyone, are all fun and nice people!!

Oh no don't go away... we're all here on diyma to read and look at everyone else's boxes and stuff. There's really lots of good stuff from everyone here on diyma!


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

diy.phil said:


> Hey guys, thanks! You guys, everyone, are all fun and nice people!!
> 
> Oh no don't go away... we're all here on diyma to read and look at everyone else's boxes and stuff. There's really lots of good stuff from everyone here on diyma!


No I'm not going anywhere. Just kidding. Some day I will post a couple build logs. I am just amazed by the talented people on this forum. I recently posted a few pictures of my system on a Chevy Sonic forum. Most people were overly impressed with my a-pillars housing a mid and tweeter. Not many people drive Sonics let alone put a full blown system in them. So for them it would look great. I might be a little embarrassed to post on this forum. Might look like kindergarten picture only a proud Mom would post on a refrigerator door.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Here are just some of my recent updates…

A few days ago the admins/mods helped to update the pictures/links on pages 1 and 2 on this thread. These pictures used to be on Photobucket but got blurred/watermarked because it’s over the monthly bandwidth limit. Now it’s hosted on the Postimages website like some of my recent photos.

I updated a bracket to a little larger size so that there’s more space to tie some harnesses. This bracket is 3d printed using the stainless steel + bronze material (by Shapeways). They also coated it black.



This bracket fits at the back of the amp’s mini-rack.



I came across a nice gadget and backed 2 of them in that project. It’s the bmmpr module and it plugs into the OBD2 port, mostly for power. There are some sensors in there and if somebody bumps or tampers with the vehicle, it sends a message to the phone. It works somewhat ok, has some issues, but the concept is actually pleasant. Last weekend they send an email saying the server will shut down for upgrade. The phone app will also be updated the same time with more features. When it’s back up soon, it will also enable the cellular data service (a SIM card is already in the module).



It fits in the OBD2 port under the dash…



I also got around to change the screws for the other amp. Previously it was the usual type for wood. Now I have in some insert nuts and machine screws there.



Thanks for reading!


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

Your work is truly stunning. Very well done sir!

I have just bought an X6-M, and was wondering about putting the sub under the cargo hatch... does it impede the output of the sub?

I was thinking of doing the same thing, except I was going to cut a hole in the hatch lid, then put some perforated steel over the hole, then re-carpet the hatch lid.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Jimmy, thanks and I think it doesn't impede the sub. The sound will go right thru the board and thru all the air gaps under and around the trunk floor. Since the trunk is in the same cabin it's easy for the sub to be heard. I actually cut a big hole in the previous X5 E70 as I thought that will help. After I got that rectangle piece out, I realized it's made of corrugated honeycomb material (transparent for bass). So this time around I didn't need or want to cut it. Here's a pix of the previous X5 E70 and the trunk floor board material....


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## jriggs (Jun 14, 2011)

Nice work Phil.

Jimmy, no need to cut. I have a sub mounted in the spare tire well if my E70 and a WeatherTech cargo liner. No issues with sound being impeded.


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## Mike-G (Dec 25, 2008)

Absolutely stunning work!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey guys, thanks everyone!! 

This SAV just turned 4 yesterday and it's out of warranty today! Didn't have a problem yet. Just put gas and go. Lets see how long this thing will last lol.


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## fordriver1 (Jul 11, 2012)

oh my...


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## Midway (Nov 19, 2019)

jriggs said:


> Nice work Phil.
> 
> Jimmy, no need to cut. I have a sub mounted in the spare tire well if my E70 and a WeatherTech cargo liner. No issues with sound being impeded.


I'll add myself to the Phil fan club.

jriggs, I am putting a subwoofer in my tire well/storage area and planned to leave the cover as is but figured I would need to take my WeatherTech cargo liner out. Are you saying the cargo liner doesn't muffle the bass either? Unlike the honeycomb storage cover the cargo liner is thin but pretty solid rubber.

Thanks


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## jriggs (Jun 14, 2011)

Midway said:


> I'll add myself to the Phil fan club.
> 
> jriggs, I am putting a subwoofer in my tire well/storage area and planned to leave the cover as is but figured I would need to take my WeatherTech cargo liner out. Are you saying the cargo liner doesn't muffle the bass either? Unlike the honeycomb storage cover the cargo liner is thin but pretty solid rubber.
> 
> Thanks


No the WeatherTech liner will not muffle the bass. This has been discussed several times on this site, do a search if you want more confirmation. Just make sure there is .75" - 1" minimum air space between the sub and the floor. If you already have the liner, you can test it out for yourself...


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## farfromovin (Mar 30, 2011)

Wow, I really need to start learning CAD. I know nothing about it, but I do have access to some nice printers and lasers at work so when I see amazing installs like this it makes me think... (off to Google!)


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

this is one coolest buiids i have seen next to all of nicks work.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Thanks optimaprime!!
I ran out of projects... time to get a new car


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## asianinvasion21 (Sep 24, 2012)

Sick build! I like how the paint color turned out on the sub box.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Hey there, thanks. Yeah that paint is pretty neat. It's like a granite kitchen thing that people use to pound chilli/pepper before they invented the blender. I first used this same paint about 15 years ago and haven't stopped lol. I actually have 2 more home audio projects this week and next weekend with this same paint.


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