# 2006 Honda Civic Si Build...In Progress No 56K



## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

So after putting this project off for a couple of months, I finally found some free time to start. This is my first time doing a large fiberglass project like this. So please feel free to add *constructive *critisms about the build.

Here's the rundown on the gear
*Head Unit*
Pioneer D3 

*Amplifiers*
PPI PC2100
PPI PC4125
Soundstream Ref

*Front Stage*
Focal K2P upgraded
Dayton RS52 2" Mids

*EQ*
Precison Power DCX-730
Memphis X03 3way crossover (sub only)

*Subwoofers*
(2) Infinity Kappa Perfects 12" subs

*Deadening*
RAMMATT (3 rolls, plus tons of ensolite)

*The Car*









*The Install*
First the entire car was covered w/ two layers of BXT and 1 layer of Ensolite.



























Next taped off and made my back templates









First layer of resin laid down, my tip to anyone starting a project like this. Invest in a fiberglass roller. Well worth it!



















Here are the two templates that will be used as the backing









MDF rings cut outs added









Wrapped w/ fleece I got at Walmart. Another hint when wrapping, PULL HARD. I had it perfectly wrapped, but got wrinkles when I added the resin. Still nothing Rage Gold can't handle









Checking the volume of enclosure, my subs require 1 ft^3. and my measures gave me EXACTLY this. VERY happy I didn't have to remake the box. lol









Test fitting the sub









Had to modify the brackets that are going to protect the subs once installed









Another project is making Fiberglass kickpanels for my Dayton RS-52's 









Test fitting with the mids










I'll be sure to post more pictures when I Rage and wrap in vinyl.


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## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

nice work so far!


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## kiko (Feb 1, 2008)

what a beautifull car. like the color. nice done the sub boxa and kicks. you plan on givin it some finish to the kicks ?? or they are to be like that ?

congrats nice work


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## adrianp89 (Oct 14, 2007)

How do you check the volume with the peanuts?


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

Make a cardboard box to the volume you need and fill it with peanuts. Then you'll know if your enclosure's is to size when you pour the peanuts in.

It also works vis versa. If you take a 12"x12"x12" box (or whatever size you want) and pouring what it took to fill your sub box or kick and figuring out how much it fills the box, you then have your box volume.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Yep, I used water to measure my tub and converted from ounces to cubic inches.

I like the smaller foam beans better, I can put the same amount of packing peanuts into something 3 times and never get the same volume, but for sealed and just checking, close counts


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks, the kicks will covered w/ Rage Gold, sand, and primed. I think I will spray them w/ a color matching SEM spray rather than vinyl them. Haven't decided on that yet. 

I was too afraid to fill it w/ water. Plus U.S. Composites helped provide me w/ the perfect box size to check volume w/ packing peanuts.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Plus U.S. Composites helped provide me w/ the perfect box size to check volume w/ packing peanuts.


Ha Ha Nice! Got a good chuckle out of that one, that's how I roll too. Wife comes in the shop and sees me rummaging and scratching my head, she bolts!

Chad


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Thanks, the kicks will covered w/ Rage Gold, sand, and primed.


That Si has a "Man Pedal right?"

Are you losing the dead pedal? Or does it have one? I thought about kicks for a few seconds but cannot give up the dead pedal.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

It does have a "man" pedal. but I carefully made sure I had plenty of room to still use it. I'll post pictures when that kick panel is finished drying.


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## fit_tuner (Aug 14, 2006)

looks pretty good so far, good luck with finishing it up


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

do your kickpanels sit UNDER the door sill? not on top? Did I just get screwed running a 7th gen civic from the kickpanel perspective?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> It does have a "man" pedal. but I carefully made sure I had plenty of room to still use it. I'll post pictures when that kick panel is finished drying.


But the dead pedal next to the man pedal.. to the left.... does it have one? I could not function without mine, I love it


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Yes, they sit under the door panel. You can't see in that pic, but the clips are under the cloth that I had yet to cutout


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

LOL...I love mine too! Hence why I made sure I wasn't going to lose it. The RS52's are self contained there for not much space was needed in the kickpanel.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

I'm jealous. Sometimes it seems like my car is the only honda with such large kickpanels (that wrap around the frame of the car, sit on top of the door sill, and are in general completely unremovable and integral to vehicle aesthetics )

looking forward to seeing the results. What material do you plan to upholster with? looks like the shape is simple enough to use a matching vinyl.


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## Hernan (Jul 9, 2006)

Are you going to use the RS52s with no tweeters?
I have them. They are not bad in a two way but a tw helps.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

nice car, nice setup so far.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Nope, I will be using a tweeter...I'm building pods for those to go on the doors. I had them in the kicks for awhile, but I want to move them up.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

WhiteRabbit - Here is a pic after I cleaned up my kicks, you can see how the door sills will sit on top of the kick panels. 









Does anyone know where I can find a store that sells SEM or other interior color matching for my honda?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

That's the way my kicks attach too.

Have you checked the forums for color matching? I know there is a spray paint that matched my interior perfectly but I think ours are a bit different in color. I think they changed the colors with the new body style.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I sent an email to SEM in hopes they will know the color that matches my interior. 

Another piece of information I'm looking for is I want to make a custom dish for my Ipod(so the Ipod lays flat). I know I have seen cars that have done this before, but can't find build pictures and I'm trying to get ideas on how to do it.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I thought simplicityinsound has done a couple iPod ipod holders, I'm not sure. There's a couple installs floating around here with exactly what you are talking about.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I went through all his install pictures on his website. All I can say is WOW if I lived in CA I would we having him do my install. Everything is CLEAN. Sent him a PM. so hopefully he responds. If you come across any installs please PM with the URL.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I went through all his install pictures on his website with no luck. All I can say is WOW if I lived in CA I would we having him do my install. Everything is CLEAN. Sent him a PM. so hopefully he responds. If you come across any installs please PM with the URL.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Looking sweet so far!

I've been planning a budget/stealth installation in my 06 Si for a while now. Did you try (or even consider) using the factory tweeter locations? I don't really have the means to fab anything up, so I was hoping I could get away with the factory speaker locations and some basic 2-way components. I'm just curious if it's an awful idea.

Keep us posted, can't wait to see how it goes.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Capnxtreme, 
Congrats on your first posts!  Are you on 8thcivic by chance?
I was never a fan of having the stock locations way up on the dash. 
I plan on modifying the pillar location (see below picture) to house my tweeters for better imaging. I wish I had room for them in my kicks, but like we talked about earlier. I LOVE my dead pedal too much


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Nice job so far. My roommate has an 02 Si and his center console makes me jealous. I could think of so many things to install in there! My bunner has crappy stock speaker locations and a pretty much useless center console


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

nice work! Have you done a test fit for the kicks? I'd think it'd cover your dead pedal which I'd have a problem with seeing I use it every time I drive...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Are you on 8thcivic by chance?


I am even though I sold my 8th SI after a whopping 3 months of ownership and so is bikinpunk.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

turbotuli said:


> Nice job so far. My roommate has an 02 Si and his center console makes me jealous. I could think of so many things to install in there! My bunner has crappy stock speaker locations and a pretty much useless center console


I have an 04 which is the same, screw hiding drugs, you can put the whole cartel in there!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

> I have an 04 which is the same, screw hiding drugs, you can put the whole cartel in there![


LOL...I'm pretty much sold on fiberglassing my DCX-730 controller in there w/ an Ipod holder as well. Adding a center channel & and some tweets were always on the back of my mind though.

Yes I test fitted the kicks, I might have to re-do the drivers side one (forgot not to fiberglass over the trunk latch  doh!) 

*Update on tonights work:* I wrapped the other sub enclosure and hit it w/ resin. Did the first layer of Rage Gold on the kicks LOVE that green stage! 
Also added more layers to the inside of the other sub enclosure. 

-Tomorrow I plan on finishing the kick panels, I wish I could just take a day off of work and finish it lol


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Any tips on sanding more efficiently?
I bought a sanding block for larger areas, using a small piece of wood wrapped w/ sandpaper for smaller areas, and electric sander for finish work.
Also taking full advantage of the green stage.


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Nice work so far! I'm a 8th gen member too - same screen name as well, but I don't really spend much time there anymore. 

As for your kicks, I am paying close attention! I've been running 6.5 Profi Kicks in the doors and CAL 26's in some adjustable "pods" mounted as far forward on the a-pillars as I could get without having to worry about reflections from the "2nd dash." I also just bought some Hiquphon OW1 FS and man they sound great... but I still haven't decided where to mount them.

I think I've decided to go ahead and build both apillar mounts and kick mounts for the time being... but ultimately I will probably be adding a large dome style midrange to the kicks... so I'm, trying to figure out a way to build a stealth optional mount in the kicks so I can use the mids when I get them - and use the tweeters there now too. I guess it would be neat to build little covers for both the mid and tweeter holes and then I can tinker around till I find the best options overall.

Please keep posting. I should be posting my reinstall soon too - in case you were wanting an idea of how a stealth false floor installation would look in your trunk. It looks and works great for me - but I can't seem to take pictures that really give you a good feel for it - too many dark corners and reflection off the tinted glass windows for the McMeters and such.

Less/Jim


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Hello from 8th, as well. 

Nice work so far. I really wish our cars had more room in the floorboard so that we could put 7" midbasses in the kicks. 

I'll be re-doing my install in the coming months as well, so by the time you, Less, and I have our installs completed 8th Civics will have taken over this site, lol. 

Keep up the good work and keep posting your process. I'd also really like to see what you do with the center console.

I had half a mind to try to get some 8's in there but I honestly think it would just be flat out impossible without some serious fabrication.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Less. - I'd really like to see your stealth false floor. Although I already have my idea planned out in my head. I always like to build on them and understand how to make my install better. As far as where to mount the tweeters. I was having a huge debate about this. I know your supposed to mount them close to the mid as possible, which would work on the passenger side, but I feel the dash comes too forward on our cars on the drivers side. I plan on remaking the doors in the distant future (this summer) so I will move the tweeters down and plan on installing an 8" or 7" midbass like Bikinpunk did in his civic. But for now they are going in the side mirror moldings on the door. Awhile back I was contiplating fiberglass molding the piece of the dash where our speed meter is and adding them there, but I think that would be over kill!

Bikinpunk- I always repected your advice on 8th civic so thanks for the compliments. Right now I have something special lined up for the center console. (S2K push button start) (voltimeter) (ipod holder) Lets hope I can fit it all. lol 

Right now its just about finding the time to finish, 60 hour work weeks are killing my progress


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

^ Do you have the stock location for the tweeter? I was actually surprised at how well that spot works. But then you're really separating the stage... 

Our cars are difference since you have a Coupe & I have a Sedan. With my car I actually have a good spot to mount a midrange up top which allows me to put a tweeter up top as well.


Have you considered just putting the tweeter in the kick you're making right now?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I've tried the stock location & kick panels (not the ones I'm making now)
I know you have the Sedan, I thought you added yours to that side mirror?? Again I would put them in my kicks if it wasn't for the drivers side. My leg is always on the dead pedal which would cover the tweeter and I'm sure cause reflection off my leg.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> I know you have the Sedan, I thought you added yours to that side mirror?? .


I put my tweeters in the stock location, with midrange in the side window thing. 

I'll be redoing all of that within a few months though, hopefully.


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Actually, for as fussy as I am, I really like my false-floor trunk. Its worked out really well and I have had enough compliments on it that it probably isn't JUST flattery =) 

As for the speaker mounting dilemma, the reason I find it hard is that when I put the tweeters off the A-pillars I get incredible staging and imaging, but to put it in the simplest terms, the tonality of the sound is just a bit off. Conversly, a test kick panel mount for the tweeters lead me to a very nice tonal balance - very nice!, but sadly the stage shows up pretty low - at least with the couple sample spots I've been able to tinker with so far. I know with some tweaking, I can get either to sound better.

Its funny how you said that Bikinpunk... by the time we finish our install's... HEHE! By the time I finish mine the car will have rusted through... and I live in central TEXAS! I decided I was going to "go good or go home" with my system probably October of 2006. By December of 2006 I had purchased almost everything. By May I finally got all the soundproofing in (I thought)... and then I sold my Alpine head unit and went with the Clarion... now I am toying with new tweeters - after a little financial bonus comes in soon - I'll try new mids - and maybe woofers... and on it goes!

On the bright side - I am really loving this! Mostly its been great that the darn thing really soudns pretty good, despite the fact that I have hand designed and put together every little step along the way. Another great part has been collecting a ton of new music - especially Audionutz's ECA collection... excellent stuff! 

I'll be sure to try and get my almost finished install picks up for you guys - and I have really appreciated seeing what you all have done too! Its always nice not to have to figure out everything yourself! 

Jim


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

less said:


> Actually, for as fussy as I am, I really like my false-floor trunk. Its worked out really well and I have had enough compliments on it that it probably isn't JUST flattery =)


x2. I'm very happy I've gone with a false floor. It gives me TONS of room back. Think I only took up about 2" height in the trunk total. 


I've been "finishing" my install for nearly a year now.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Pretty funny to see so many folks from 8th. I lurk over there too.

Have you guys deadened your doors? How many sq. ft. do you think it would take to do a proper job on the coupe? Would 1 roll of Raammat be overkill for the doors + decklid? (I don't want to add more weight than I have to, nor lighten my wallet.)


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I bought 2 rolls from RaaMat Rick, and did the whole car w/ 1 layer, and 2 layers in the door and I still have 1/2roll left. I still have to door the rear deck and some more work on the doors. 

My car has a bunch of added weigh with all the fiberglass/sounddeadener. I'm not much of a dragster, but I do plan on doing some AutoX so I'm building the subs so they can be easily removed. 

Less & Bikinpunk, what are the URLs for your installs, last I remember Bikinpunk you has a HUGE box in your car not sure if thats still there.

My final tweeter place is going to be in the doors w/ an 8" midbass, so whatever I do now is only temp. til I have a chance to get to those


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> Less & Bikinpunk, what are the URLs for your installs, last I remember Bikinpunk you has a HUGE box in your car not sure if thats still there.


Yea, I still have that dang thing. With the 12w7, it's nearly impossible not to have a huge box. :blush: 

Midbass install:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22712

False Floor:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21873

Midrange Pods:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13019

^ The pods are what's being completely redone. I hate them, but at the time I was just happy to have _something_ so I dealt with it. I've got a bunch of ideas. Hopefully this time it'll come out right.


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

Want to sell that last half roll?  I'm buying as much of that stuff as I can for Spring time...


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Toxis said:


> Want to sell that last half roll?  I'm buying as much of that stuff as I can for Spring time...


Sorry I plan on using it for the doors & rear deck.


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

weaksauce. Your install sucks then.


haha j/k


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Toxis said:


> weaksauce. Your install sucks then.
> 
> 
> haha j/k


Any extra material I have left over, will be parted with (you just have to wait a year til I'm done  j/k)

Sanded the kicks some more last night, primed them to see what was left for low spots then added spot filler


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Update 2/10/08
I had some more time this weekend to work on the kicks and sub enclosures
I also added more deader to my doors and installed my DCX-730 to my center console (it was like it was made to fit there)

Here is some more progress pics. I have to find someone to carpet everything.

First layer going on









Made a lil Milkshake w/ Bondo & Resin (works wonders)


















Finished result









Wrapped the 2nd enclosure









First layer of Resin









Moved over to the door panels after to add more fiberglass









Picture of the K2P 6.5" I added modeling clay around the edges









Then installed the PPI DCX-730 to my center console









Finally finished up with the drivers side kick panel. I need to get information on SEM products to match my factory interior color










Upcoming project for tomorrow.
Memphis Bass Controller into the center console w/ switches.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)




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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

This is coming along excellently.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

bikinpunk said:


>


What's the matter bikinpunk? hah j/k
Are you still rocking those Baupunkts amps? I'm thinking I might pick one up for my rear fill & tweeters


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> What's the matter bikinpunk? hah j/k
> Are you still rocking those Baupunkts amps? I'm thinking I might pick one up for my rear fill & tweeters


nah, not running it anymore. I now have 2 PDX's for the front stage. That blau was an awesome amp though. I just needed more room.


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## trunks9_us (Oct 25, 2007)

nice


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## Guest (Feb 10, 2008)

Nice work and car. 
Always been a Civic SI fan!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback, 2nd enclosure is finished I'll post pictures tomorrow. I hit a snag in the install. My Infinity Kappa Perfects are different I have one SVC & one DVC. So I'm putting the word out if anyone has one lying around PLEASE get in touch with me.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Well I feel ambious tonight, so here are the pictures from today.

Finished my other door panel









Layer of Rage Gold 









It was sooo cold out tonight that I missed the green stage what PITA, but here's the "finished" enclosure.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

It's been sooo cold outside I haven't had a chance to work on the system. Right now both boxes are finished and waiting for carpet from PartsEtc to arrive. Tweeter pods are next on my to-do list. I hit a snag when I went to mount the 2nd subwoofer, turned out I had (1)Infinity Perfect DVC and (1) SVC. So I had to order another DVC. I just purchased a PCX480 to run my rear fill and tweeters. New Red Top battery is getting purchased tomorrow. I'm seriously thinking I'm going to have a power issue running all my gear. Anyone know how to determine that my theory is correct? Also question about running accessories. Here's a really rough system diagram (go ahead make fun of my MS Paint skillz) Is it ok to run another power distro block from the main one to run accessories (processors, fans, neons)? Another thing I haven't even though about was running a relay. I've never did a system of this magitude anyone have any information on this










My 12" Perfect SVC is up for grabs if anyone is interested.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Lots of views but no feedback or suggestions...awesome


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

What's the cap for?

More pics!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I have it, so might as well use it. I know some members don't believe in them. Pics might come this weekend but I'm still looking for feedback.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Today I'm wiring up my subwoofers and I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly. Here's a picture of how they are currently wired


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yep, that's a 2 Ohm stereo load.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> It's been sooo cold outside I haven't had a chance to work on the system. Right now both boxes are finished and waiting for carpet from PartsEtc to arrive. Tweeter pods are next on my to-do list. I hit a snag when I went to mount the 2nd subwoofer, turned out I had (1)Infinity Perfect DVC and (1) SVC. So I had to order another DVC. I just purchased a PCX480 to run my rear fill and tweeters. New Red Top battery is getting purchased tomorrow. I'm seriously thinking I'm going to have a power issue running all my gear. Anyone know how to determine that my theory is correct? Also question about running accessories. Here's a really rough system diagram (go ahead make fun of my MS Paint skillz) Is it ok to run another power distro block from the main one to run accessories (processors, fans, neons)? Another thing I haven't even though about was running a relay. I've never did a system of this magitude anyone have any information on this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes you can run a second block off the first, and you should use a relay for the remote. Looks like you have 5 things using that remote. Why 2 EQs?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

> Yep, that's a 2 Ohm stereo load.


Nice, I always like to double check 



> you should use a relay for the remote. Looks like you have 5 things using that remote.


Yes I'm going to be be using Single Pole Double Throw type relay for running the neons, fans, & EQ's



> Why 2 EQs?


I'm going active, the PPI 730 will handle the 3 way front stage, Focal 6.5"s, tweeter, and RS52 mids. A gives me alot of tuning capabilites. The Memphis EQ will handle the subs and the rear fills. It also has a remote bass knob that I'll use to control the gain from the front.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Weekend Progress:
Kicks = DONE


























Subwoofer Pods = DONE

Projects that I need to complete:
I started making an amp rack for to hold my amps. After trying 3 different configurations I finally found one I liked. Here are the start pictures. There is a ton of prep work still needed to get it ready for paint














































I started my Tweeter Pods they are wrapped and fiberglassed - bondo, sanding, paint = tonight


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Lookin sweet! Love those kicks! Amp rack idea is cool too.


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## lostdaytomorrow (Jan 26, 2007)

1. Those kicks are sickeningly amazing.
2. Your trunk looks amazing (not a fan of the staples but it still looks awesome)
3. How do you like the K2P's?
4. Thanks for the log.
5. Nice to see a guy with an Si that isn't always so worried about adding weight with deadener and doing it the right way. 
6. Nice choice on the color. I have an NHBP '06 Coupe LX.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks, I wish I had a better camera because I'm amazed how good they came out, they look even better in person.
2.) I wish I didn't have to use staples either, but its all I had available. (3M glue wasn't cutting it.
3.) I love the K2Ps, I've been running them passively for about a month, and haven't really had a chance to play with them. I'm sure when I switch them over to their new homes and tune w/ the 730 they will really start to sing.
5.) The whole car has about 50 lbs of deadener, but I do plan on making it so the subs/amp rack are removable so the days I feel like AutoX I can still have some fun. 
6.) LOVE my color, what do you think about painting the amp rack the same color


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Oh no and no updates from last night, my lamp bulbs blew when I was moving the light and I had no replacement lights to see my work


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

i love lamp


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)




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## lostdaytomorrow (Jan 26, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> Thanks, I wish I had a better camera because I'm amazed how good they came out, they look even better in person.
> 2.) I wish I didn't have to use staples either, but its all I had available. (3M glue wasn't cutting it.
> 3.) I love the K2Ps, I've been running them passively for about a month, and haven't really had a chance to play with them. I'm sure when I switch them over to their new homes and tune w/ the 730 they will really start to sing.
> 5.) The whole car has about 50 lbs of deadener, but I do plan on making it so the subs/amp rack are removable so the days I feel like AutoX I can still have some fun.
> 6.) LOVE my color, what do you think about painting the amp rack the same color


Painting the rack would be great!


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## Genxx (Mar 18, 2007)

Coming along very well. Nice work so far.


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## rsvchad (May 28, 2007)

Kicks look great.

I've always found that when doing an amp rack like you have there that a secondary push-in piece of material (usually 1/2" MDF) to obtain your shape and secure the fabric while applying resin makes for much less finishing work than using staples. Also when forming to OEM panels you should keep them attached inside the vehicle for your base layer of glass as they can easily deform once out of the vehicle. It looks like you are not experiencing any fitment problems with your sub box however.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I'm actually going those this issue of deformation of the peice out of the vehicle, I had to use a TON of fiberglass mat/resin/bondo mix to flatten it out. Its finally getting there, but i feel it would have been alot easier if I did some proper work getting the fleece formed nicely. 

I did have a fitment issue with the sub ever so slightly rubbing on the trunk bars when closing after I wrapped them in carpet and put the existing carpet in. Testing fitting them before carpeting this didn't occur and I found that cutting out the bottom half of the existing carpet was just enough to get by. I might have to make so more minor adjustments, but very happy I don't have to remake them


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Progress 2/24/08:
Here is some more progress pictures. I haven't had much time to work on the car, and today I had to go to the E.R. sliced my finger open cutting with a razor...doh!

*Tweeter pods*



























*Random Updates*


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Well on the bright side, the blood you put into it really shows.

Love your fiberglass work.


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

Coming along nicely! Makes me jealous that I haven't started on my install yet.

BTW, how much depth do we have in our doors (coupe)? My mid is only 2 9/16" deep but do I need a half inch or so trim ring??


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

rsvchad said:


> Kicks look great.
> 
> I've always found that when doing an amp rack like you have there that a secondary push-in piece of material (usually 1/2" MDF) to obtain your shape and secure the fabric while applying resin makes for much less finishing work than using staples.


Exactly. When I did mine we cut out the center section of the "riser", which is the edge piece, and then taped and waxed it. We fleeced the rack and then screwed then center section down and that gave us the basic shape. We filled the corners a bit and then smoothed the rest. Here's a basic progression.
Sorry about the 3rd pic, I have more if you want me to email them.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


>


Wasn't sure if that was a bloody rag or your tweeter pod at first.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Toxis said:


> BTW, how much depth do we have in our doors (coupe)? My mid is only 2 9/16" deep but do I need a half inch or so trim ring??


Im not sure, but I made a 1/2 MDF baffle and didn't have any fitment issues. There is a plastic bevel in the door that you might want to cut out to give you more room. Just be careful you don't end up like me  

Quality- I'd love to see more pictures. I'm sure in another year I'll switch everything out and start fresh. This is my first time for alot of this, I've only made a few fiberglass enclosures.

Yes, that is either a bloody rag or my picture taking ability sucks...I'll let the viewer decide.


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> Im not sure, but I made a 1/2 MDF baffle and didn't have any fitment issues. There is a plastic bevel in the door that you might want to cut out to give you more room. Just be careful you don't end up like me


end up like you?? What's the depth of your speakers? I'm not sure if I want to remove the plastic bevel in the door as my brother's older civic had them removed and then water damaged his Focals...


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Toxis said:


> end up like you??


and bleed all over your tweeter pods


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

hah... Toxis- I removed my door panels and inspected the area...No water in that area. I plan on upgradingn to a 7/8 in woofer in the summer, but I don't think you'll have any issues stuffing your mids in there...If you have fitment issues just make a baffle like me.

Also I had to stop progress on the car for a number of reasons
1.) I was testing my PCX-4125 that just came back from repairs and welll...lets just say it didn't work.
2.) Working w/ one hand sucks.
3.) I have to wait for the body shop to paint my amp rack.

I might start playing with my subs to get those sounding nice, I tried them for a minute last night and I was only getting sound out of one. Can someone please look at my configuration on the next page and make sure that is 2 ohms. - One thing I wasn't sure about is connecting (-) voicecoil to the to other (-) and then running that out to the amp. (and same for the (+) side or should I have used a terminal strip. 
(See the below picture w/ red circles on areas in question.)


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> (See the below picture w/ red circles on areas in question.)


Should work just fine. You could pop the speakers with a 9V battery to make sure that the terminals were installed correctly... I HAVE seen the colors put on bakkids on drivers before


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

hmmm...not enough juice?...not sure why only one sub would turn on and not the other. How do I do this 9V battery test?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> hmmm...not enough juice?...not sure why only one sub would turn on and not the other. How do I do this 9V battery test?


I've had this happen before. My sub just kind of "stuck" after sitting for a few months not being used. 

Just hook up the + & - wires from the sub to the terminals on the 9v battery. Simple as that. It should 'pop'. I had to do it twice and my sub started working fine again. Weird...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

bikinpunk said:


> I've had this happen before. My sub just kind of "stuck" after sitting for a few months not being used.



Now that ain't right! I was just telling him to do that to determine polarity, not defib it 

A positive impulse on the positive terminal should yeild the speaker moving outward, check both coils to make sure one does not move in.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

ok. let me get this straight hook up the 9V to each (+) voicecoil. The sub should "pop" outward. = good polarity, inward = bad polarity. The subs have been sitting for awhile, but I don't think they need CPR like bikinpunk mentioned lol. I also noticed that the sub that did work, was just vibrating and not really following the music, my thought is tuning frequency, but I was kinda just worried about the one sub not working to troubleshoot.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Pos to pos, neg to neg, should jump out. Check each coil, if one is mis labled then one is pushing, one is pulling, and the whole works is acting like a tiny space heater


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

So I took more than 2 seconds to check out the subs tonight. Everything sounds great I think it was just the gain settings. Hooked up the 3-ways to my other four channel PCX-480 by going active on the RS52's and passive on the Focal K2P's and WOW! I haven't even hit them with my DCX-730 and I'm happy with the results straight out of the box. I'm getting some dimming lights, so I feel a Big 3 upgrade and a new Red Top is in need


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

I'm glad you got everything worked out. Good luck with tuning.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Stock battery?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Yup, don't see it lasting too much longer


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Yup, don't see it lasting too much longer


You are lucky it lasted this long  I hate those damn batteries. How much power you running? I imagine more than me but FWIW I replaced my stockie with this: and could not be happier.....

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28673&highlight=SPV35

Unfortunately my gen of SI would not fit a standard size battery without moving an AC line or fabbing a battery tray up, not saying it's out of the question inthe future but this little battery is a brute! It's not a parking lot thumper battery, but it solved my dimming/LV issues!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I know I can fit a Red Top 34-78 about 1000CCA which I think is double the SPV35. I just would have to fab a new battery tray. Im running about 1600 watts RMS just for the amps alone, then add fans, neons, EQ's and your up to 2000. I will start with the big 3 and battery, and if need be I'll add a new alternator down the road.

Are you a EP3? Speaking about parking lot thumper. Last night I was tuning in an empty grocery parking lot in a industrial area (so I wouldn't wake my neighbors) and two cruisers swung by and started harrassing me...You would think they would be curtious for me going out of my way, but nope I basically got my whole car searched and had to play 20 questions. I guess next time I'll just stay in my garage and piss off my neighbors.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> I know I can fit a Red Top 34-78 about 1000CCA which I think is double the SPV35. I just would have to fab a new battery tray. Im running about 1600 watts RMS just for the amps alone, then add fans, neons, EQ's and your up to 2000. I will start with the big 3 and battery, and if need be I'll add a new alternator down the road.
> 
> Are you a EP3? Speaking about parking lot thumper. Last night I was tuning in an empty grocery parking lot in a industrial area (so I wouldn't wake my neighbors) and two cruisers swung by and started harrassing me...You would think they would be curtious for me going out of my way, but nope I basically got my whole car searched and had to play 20 questions. I guess next time I'll just stay in my garage and piss off my neighbors.


Yeah mine's an EP3, I could get a full size one in there,others HAVE but when I ask about rubbing on that AC line the subject is quickly dropped. 8 times out of 10 I get this " it fits so well I don't even need a hold-down" Holy **** batman! Update the factory grounding first and foremost, and don't forget when doing the big3 that there is an alternator fuse and that our cars have an ELD unit  I actually just updated the factory wiring and utilized the stock scheme to the fuse panel, took a bit of work but looks totally stock and I trust it. Optima's are old technology, check out the Odyssey/stinger/diehard square AGM's, more surface area, higher power density.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I knew about the ALT fuse line, but what about this ELD unit? I tried googling it, but no info. I would say PM me about it, but could be useful info for other people about doing this. Any pics would be helpful as well. Thanks for advise on the battery brands, I'll check them out.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

The ELD unit senses current draw of the vehicle and adjusts the output of the alternator, this way the alternator is not full bore all the time, this is Honda's stupid ass way of saving .0015 MPG  Bad thing is that by going straight to the battery with system power (no other choice) you bypass this inductive pickup and you can be HAMMERING the rig but the alternator won't put out the required current because the ELD does not sense current draw 

As for the big 3, for some stupid ass reason, some that have tacked on another alternator wire, even though it is in FRONT of the ELD unit stock, have had ELD issues and a charge never exceeding 12.5V  

Go easy, update grounding first and see. As for the ELD issue and getting it to kick up when needed for audio... I have no idea, other than bitching about headlights changing intensity I believe that the ELD has not been addressed till recently when I brought it up over at EP hatch and even then it bounced off of most of their foreheads and fell on the floor


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks for the wiring diagram, I will have to look into this more before I simply start changing out wires. Going back to the battery issue, do you happen to know the difference between Stinger SP & SPV line?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Thanks for the wiring diagram, I will have to look into this more before I simply start changing out wires. Going back to the battery issue, do you happen to know the difference between Stinger SP & SPV line?


uuuhh, no. I can look around a bit though. Also look here.

www.odysseybatteries.com

The ONLY reason I did not get one there is because the stinger was claimed as an OEM replacement, fast, easy, fun.

I'm really sold on this battery technology as are others, it even works well below zero in temp, scary well!


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## lostdaytomorrow (Jan 26, 2007)

chad said:


> The ELD unit senses current draw of the vehicle and adjusts the output of the alternator, this way the alternator is not full bore all the time, this is Honda's stupid ass way of saving .0015 MPG  Bad thing is that by going straight to the battery with system power (no other choice) you bypass this inductive pickup and you can be HAMMERING the rig but the alternator won't put out the required current because the ELD does not sense current draw
> 
> As for the big 3, for some stupid ass reason, some that have tacked on another alternator wire, even though it is in FRONT of the ELD unit stock, have had ELD issues and a charge never exceeding 12.5V
> 
> Go easy, update grounding first and see. As for the ELD issue and getting it to kick up when needed for audio... I have no idea, other than bitching about headlights changing intensity I believe that the ELD has not been addressed till recently when I brought it up over at EP hatch and even then it bounced off of most of their foreheads and fell on the floor


So this is why I drop to 12.x volts while driving around. I swear I thought it was the ECU because nothing else made sense.

See: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/i-c-...pping-12-xx-volts-while-driving-no-music.html


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

lostdaytomorrow said:


> So this is why I drop to 12.x volts while driving around. I swear I thought it was the ECU because nothing else made sense.
> 
> See: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/i-c-...pping-12-xx-volts-while-driving-no-music.html


That's why! When it's doing that, hit your headlight stalk to do a flash to pass and the voltage should pop right back up. I dunno that I like that whole idea myself


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Is there any known way to effectly bypass the ELD or make it aware of the draw of the system power so we don't run into...


> thing is that by going straight to the battery with system power (no other choice) you bypass this inductive pickup and you can be HAMMERING the rig but the alternator won't put out the required current because the ELD does not sense current draw


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Is there any known way to effectly bypass the ELD or make it aware of the draw of the system power so we don't run into...


I dunno, I THOUGHT you could un-plug the ELD sensor in the fuse panel to get it to run full bore but I'd let some other sucka try that first  Honestly in going on 3 years, I have not had an issue with it, especially after buying a decent battery.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Yea, I'm not going to be a guinea pig on this one. I'll upgrade the battery and see how that goes.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Yea, I'm not going to be a guinea pig on this one. I'll upgrade the battery and see how that goes.


Good Call


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## lostdaytomorrow (Jan 26, 2007)

I've upgraded to a D34 Yellowtop under the hood and a G31 YT in the back, and it still drops down to 12.x all the time... It's incredibly annoying and the only reason I know is because my I have my Passport X50 to display Voltage and I always notice when it drops. 

There's a bigass difference between 12.x and 14.x when running serious power for you audio stuff.

Which fuse might it be labeled as? I'll be the pig.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Awesome, Please let us know about your results or any questions that may come up.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

lostdaytomorrow said:


> Which fuse might it be labeled as? I'll be the pig.


Here's my fuse panel.....










See the brown box between the 80A and 40A fuse? That's the ELD sensor My pluig in inside but the wifey's can be unplugged. One of 2 things will happen.

1) it will put out full current but still regulate (what I have heard)
2) it will put out little current and regulate.

Hopefully it will not throw a CEL, if it does you will have to reset the ECU so have that instruction handy too.

Ideally one would want the amps AFTER the ELD sensor that would solve all the problems I imagine... I have yet to find a way to squeeze that in there! I need to find an EP in a junkyard eh? Pull a little Dr. Chop N Hack


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

New goodies that just arrived yesterday 

Flexible Neons









New Stretchable carpet for subwoofer boxes and side panels.









More TechFlex


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

What are you gonna do with that neon Vin Diesel?

just kidding


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

Oznium, good stuff. I love those flexible led strips


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Can't wait to use it, but it's $$$, $70 for a 6ft strip. Hope it was worth it


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

All of Phils stuff is good. What are your plans for it?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

They are going to highlight my amp rack. Mounted around the plexiglass and run from a switch.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

UPDATE: Sorry not much to post lately, I've been on vacation and visiting family for the past few weeks so I haven't had much time to work on the instal. I finally installed my SPV44 last night. Here are the pictures:


















And here is a little teaser picture of how the false floor is going to look. 
More pictures to come after the weekend.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

Its coming out great! Good work


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## 90and90 (Mar 25, 2008)

wow subscribed, im from the 8th too 

im trying to get 2 type r's in with falsefloor and right now having a problem finding a good amp to power them

since I cant fiberglass im prolly gonna end up doing an vanity plate (just piece of mdf in front of box or whateveR)

but it looks great, I just jumped into the audio part since I slowly realized my r18 (ex) isnt gonna be at the track anytime soon

edit: just noticed your from nj, you planning on going to that huge NY meet?


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## sporty_drew (Dec 7, 2007)

That design is really cool. Can't wait to see more progress.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

> im trying to get 2 type r's in with falsefloor and right now having a problem finding a good amp to power them


I looked up the reference guide for these, 500w per sub shouldn't be too hard. You'll find plenty of used amps for sale on this forum. Depending on what you want to accomplish for an install, and your $ requirments. For me, I wanted to keep it simple, yet have the ability to keep my trunk space (which is why I went with the false floor). Also the subwoofer pods are easily removed so if I do want to have some fun on the track I can lose the extra 40lbs in a few minutes.



> since I cant fiberglass im prolly gonna end up doing an vanity plate (just piece of mdf in front of box or whatever)


Do you have the Sedan or Coupe? Your going to find that there is not much room . You probably will have the build up your base floor. The good news that in a sealed box, the Type R's only require ~.85 ft^3. I have a bunch of fiberglass left over so I may be able to help you out whatever you decide you want to do.



> just noticed your from nj, you planning on going to that huge NY meet?


You bet I'll be there! What's your name on 8thcivic?


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## 90and90 (Mar 25, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> I looked up the reference guide for these, 500w per sub shouldn't be too hard. You'll find plenty of used amps for sale on this forum. Depending on what you want to accomplish for an install, and your $ requirments. For me, I wanted to keep it simple, yet have the ability to keep my trunk space (which is why I went with the false floor). Also the subwoofer pods are easily removed so if I do want to have some fun on the track I can lose the extra 40lbs in a few minutes.
> 
> 
> Do you have the Sedan or Coupe? Your going to find that there is not much room . You probably will have the build up your base floor. The good news that in a sealed box, the Type R's only require ~.85 ft^3. I have a bunch of fiberglass left over so I may be able to help you out whatever you decide you want to do.
> ...


same name, ive been there for a while, I was one of the first people to purchase when they hit dealerships. I mostly lurk and pop in on random threads...

I am very psyched about the meet, I cant wait to see what other people are doing...

I would love to fiberglass and have redone a floor in my 74 vw beatle with fiberglass but never have done anything with boxes... my exterior looks like **** right now, I have a 06 coupe nhbp mt, so far just avicd3 and running off the premium sound system... and im in process of wrapping the weapon R header and have partial exhaust I just need 1 more pipe made to finish full exhaust, and a fujita cai of course

I realized putting boost on the car is a waste, half the engine is plastic parts, even though a turbo kit was just released, the numbers arnt worth the money. I got the ex due to insurance reasons and could of had a si that was leased for a day for the same price (21k), but I already pay 5k a year for insurance... I have always loved home stereo, so why not branch into the automotive stereo world hah! but any help whatsoever would be greatly appreciated, I would be more than happy to help you with any engine modifications  since I cant on mine 

but again to keep the spam to a minimum your work looks really good, and it doesn't look just slapped together like most other cars on 8th...

have you heard of alpine t757? I have one and know someone selling three, I was going to hook one up to each voice coil, do you think this would be a bad idea? enough rambling....


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

is your subs working correctly now?

one thing to note i have not personally used any Precision Power AMPs.
But with my US Amps XT4000D 1500WRMS @ 1ohm monster, when you wire 2 subs like you have it ends up at 1ohm load, the 2 speaker terminal have been linked inside the AMP casing.

Great work on the install so far, keep up the good work and dont forget to keep posting updated pics.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

> is your subs working correctly now?


Is this a ? for me or 90and90? If its for me then yes the subs are working without issue. One thing the PPI amps lack is good documentation on configurations. As far as I know they are running a 2ohm load. Please correct me if I'm wrong


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

MaXaZoR - good to hear the subs are back up and running.

Yeah i have no info about the PPI amps, but thought i may just shed light on my findings with the USAMPS Amps.

Keep up the good work


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks for the compliments - I have alot more progress hopefully over the weekend. I ordered my plexiglass which is essentially the only thing I need to finish the install. That and a lot more time, wiring help, and tuning help. Now that the weather is getting nicier I won't have to be cramped in my single car garage. I do have a few questions how how I'm going to run the switches for my neons & fans. I know how to run relays for my 3 amps.
(i.e Using a SPST relay the *Pin 30* +12 Volts (Battery +) *Pin 87* Amplifiers' remote turn-on terminal (I'll take this into a distro block then out send it to the individual amplifiers) *Pin 86*
Head unit remote turn-on lead *Pin 85* Ground)
Ok, my back to my issues. This is my first time doing a complex install with neons/fans/switchs so I want to double check everything before I start messing with wiring.
So the I have 2 switches that will be in the front of the car ("1" to run two fans, and "1" to run the neons <on the amp rack and front of the car>) My thought is the run two remote wires from the head unit, or tap into the fuse panel for an empty ACC slot. (See Picture) I'm not sure about the current draw, but I don't think I will need a relay if I'm coming from the fuse panel. 
My switches have POWER, GND, and ACC. Again I'm new to this, so I'm assuming GND is obviously ground, POWER will be my wire that runs to the trunk to the fans/neons, and ACC will be the Remote Turn on from the Fuse Box.








Another question I have is the Stinger Crossflow Fans, they only have (2) wires RED & BLUE. I assuming that this is power and turn-on, and no ground is used?? Anyone have experience with these.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I would think one is switched power and the other is ground. A fan shouldn't need a constant power (red being always hot and blue being switched). At least, that's the way it seems to me.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> Another question I have is the Stinger Crossflow Fans, they only have (2) wires RED & BLUE. I assuming that this is power and turn-on, and no ground is used?? Anyone have experience with these.


 I'm not sure, but I'm betting on +12V and ground. When in doubt RTFM.

Where did you get your plexy/lexan products? I have this old antique motor crate/pallet I use as a coffee table in my studio, it has (HAD) a glass top that got destroyed, I need a new top for it and would like to have a chunk of lexan/plexi cut and the edges polished for it.


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

Do you think you really need the fans? Do your amps heat up pretty bad?

On my current false floor setup I am not using any fans, and I see no signs of failures and im running an eD amp :O


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

3 BIG amps in a small false floor. I dont think the fans will hurt, plus I already bought them so they're going in. 

I bought my plexi from eStreetPlastics.com I wanted a custom cut peice, but honestly whoever runs there sales team SUCKS. I sent them 3 emails with no response, so I just used their automated ordering and it only took one day to ship out 3 seperate sheets that I'll have to cut myself.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MaXaZoR said:


> I bought my plexi from eStreetPlastics.com I wanted a custom cut peice, but honestly whoever runs there sales team SUCKS. I sent them 3 emails with no response, so I just used their automated ordering and it only took one day to ship out 3 seperate sheets that I'll have to cut myself.


Thanks for the lead, and regarding the fans, once I get off my lazy ass I plan to build a temp controller for mine, when I get the design whipped up I'll shoot you the schematics. There's also a design on BACE (or however the hell you arrange the acronym)

Chad


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I don't think I need to go as advanced as the temp controller...I saw that on BCAE1.com and I plan just to use the fans on long road trips and when I'm tuning i.e why I'm putting them on switches


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

hmmm.. 12 hours since I first posted my wiring issues and no one can give me a definite yes or no if I'm doing it correctly? Makes it really difficult to have much progress when I'm not 100% sure that I'm correct that I'm doing it right.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> hmmm.. 12 hours since I first posted my wiring issues and no one can give me a definite yes or no if I'm doing it correctly? Makes it really difficult to have much progress when I'm not 100% sure that I'm correct that I'm doing it right.


Are those illuminated switches? Just curious why the 3 terminals on them. If it's just a basic 2 position switch I don't know why there is a POWER and ACC. As for wiring, I would still recommend relays. The relay is to protect the switch, not the fans or lights. Most switches aren't rated for much more than 5 amps. Can you take a pic of the switches? 
On the fans, I would guess that red is 12V+, and the blue is ground. It's just a motor, so you have to have + & -. 
If you use relays, the wiring will be the same as the remote, except you'll send power through the switch first, the switch will power up the relay, then the relay will provide 12V to the lights or fan. Put the ground wire to chassis and you should be good.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

Connecting Additional Devices to the Remote Turn On Wire 
Using a 30 amp SPDT relay, connect terminal #87 to constant 12 volts positive with a fuse rated to the sum of the additional accessories you've added and the components you need to turn on. (If you have two fans rated at 5 amps each and a neon light rated at 10 amps, you would use a 20 amp fuse plus 200 ma for each amplifier and processor.) Connect terminal #85 to ground, terminal #86 to the remote turn on wire from the head unit, and terminal #30 to each accessory with an appropriate fuse. A fuse (not shown) could also be used between the output of the relay (#30) and the remote turn on wire of the amplifiers and/or processors for extra precaution.










Like this, but just substitute remote turn on with power from your switch.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Weekend Update: I didn't get much work done over the weekend due to the fact I had a raging hangover from friday, my PPI 4125 still has not been returned, and I decided to go to the NYC Auto Show. 

My amp rack is now 100% wrapped in vinyl. I decided to added a special flair and added raised logos "Honda Civic Si" I didn't install everything back into the car since its going to be coming back out soon, but it looks AMAZING. 

Laying down a base vinyl









Add your template









Trace it out with an exacto knife and remove the excess









Wrap it and take a pen tip to trace around the template, and wallaa your finished product.









Repeat steps









Finished results


















Side boards

















Also I re-wraped my subwoofer boxes, because I didn't like the carpet choice from the first wrappings.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Here is some pictures from the NYC Auto Show


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Audio Installs:


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

wow, skyline  ...lexus IS-f is hot too

thanks for sharing!


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


>


Cobra kit car with Solstice headlights?? Is that what that is?


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

+1, thanks for the pics of the show!

Can I say that the vynil logoa needed either more work or better photography?? .


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

hah, Definitely better photography I took the pictures and was very dissapointed how they came out. My camera is a "****ty POS" as you can tell from my entire install log. Even with 7MP even the autoshow pictures look grainy and blurry. 

I snapped a picture of the cobra, because I want to get a kit car eventually of one, However this car was the exception, the front end on it was horrendous. I wanted to speak to the owner of the company about his choice, but no one was at the booth.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> I snapped a picture of the cobra, because I want to get a kit car eventually of one, However this car was the exception, the front end on it was horrendous. I wanted to speak to the owner of the company about his choice, but no one was at the booth.


My thoughts exactly. Why mess with a classic? I wanted to do a Cobra kit too. Somebody from Factory 5 used to live near us in NH, so we'd see them all over the place. Those are beautiful cars, and pretty inexpensive too, relatively speaking. I'll be heading to the Food Lion car show up at Lowe's Speedway this weekend. They usually have a few. I'll see if I can get some pics. 
Here are a couple from last year:
















And a Daytona









Sorry for the jack


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

HAH, Factory Five I grew up in Lakeville, MA which literally 15 minutes from their factory. I have friends that work there, and my dad owns a kit from them. Their kits have its quiks, but you can't beat their price and customization.


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## Fran82 (Jul 30, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> HAH, Factory Five I grew up in Lakeville, MA which literally 15 minutes from their factory. I have friends that work there, and my dad owns a kit from them. Their kits have its quiks, but you can't beat their price and customization.


I'm sure every kit will have its issues. They look pretty nice for the money, and not too difficult to build. I think Car and Driver managed to build one completely painted with Mustang Cobra parts for under $25k, and it does 0-60 in around 4 seconds. Someday.


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

I am indeed a fan....


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Any updates? I wanna see the finished product!

BTW, what's your reasoning behind adding the Dayton 2" mids to the Focal component set, when the Focal mid and tweet are already designed to blend well together? Do the kickpanel locations bring up the stage, or improve imaging, or something?


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

info please!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I have no info on this car - rest assured that this is a Concept car that 1.) we will never see in production 2.) If it does go to production we will not likely to be able to afford it. 3.) If it does go to production and we can afford it, they will change it to something hideous or it will be underpowered.



> Any updates? I wanna see the finished product!
> 
> BTW, what's your reasoning behind adding the Dayton 2" mids to the Focal component set, when the Focal mid and tweet are already designed to blend well together? Do the kickpanel locations bring up the stage, or improve imaging, or something?


No updates right now - I have been in the process of moving to a new house, I have to spend countless hours prepping/painting it while taking weekends off traveling. I hope to get back to work on it shortly. 

The reason I went with the mid was that I knew I was not going to stick with the Focal set, I currently sold these and have replaced them with Peerless 8" midbass and a set of Hiquphon OWII. New doors will probably be called for as well as A pillars to be made. I am extremely happy with the Daytons, they are very detailed, while the imaging is set to the drivers side, I find they do improve the overall soundstage.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I sold my Focals last week, and replaced them with the Peerless SLS 8's. I've never seen an 8in. woofer tried to be placed in a 8th civic car and thought...hey why not bethe guinea pig. 

Picture of the SLS. (should have given reference as to just how big it is)










1/4" MDF to make the ring to hold it into place. I was expecting that this would be too thin and ratter, but after it was installed and filled with expandable foam. It was excellent.









The SLS in its new home









With the door shut


















Now, installing the SLS didn't come without its sacrifices, I did have to remove the pockets in the doors.

































The insert is going to be holding my new tweeters, the Hiquphon OWII.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Me = sad. My Sedan doesn't have removable pockets, and even if it did, I couldn't get an 8 in the stock location b/c the door panel is molded to form around the 6.5" stock speaker.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

There's always cutting the door up and molding a new bottom half ...Sorry that you can't fit an 8". I actually had to do alot of cutting/hammering to fit the SLS's. The door is molds to the 6.5's like you said, and its not flat in the least bit. The output is remarkable to say the least, they are LOUD. I don't get much "bass" out of them yet, but they are still breaking in. I noticed they are very responsive, as alot of people have noted on this site, can't wait to hit them with a tune.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

See how my door is molded:









suuuuucks. I could do a custom install, but I honestly don't want to pay $240 for new lower halves of door panels when it's time to sale the car.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Do you have pictures of the front? It seems like your pockets are just like mine. You just drill out those circular rivets and it will come right out. Why buy new pods. Personally if I wasn't housing my OWII in the new inserts. I would just cover the gap in Suede and call it a day. I like the way it looks w/o the pocket.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> Do you have pictures of the front? It seems like your pockets are just like mine. You just drill out those circular rivets and it will come right out. Why buy new pods. Personally if I wasn't housing my OWII in the new inserts. I would just cover the gap in Suede and call it a day. I like the way it looks w/o the pocket.


I would have to buy replacements for when it's time to sale the car. 










Doesn't look like it can be taken off.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

> buy replacements for when it's time to sale the car.


Seriously though, are you ever going to sell the car 

It looks like it could be possible, However in your sake, I would be happy with those Dyn MW162's


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I'll keep it for at least another 4 years. 

I love the Dyns, don't get me wrong. But, I love bass, too. I'm trying my hardest to get 'up front bass', and having 6.5's then 12's is making that very hard.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

all our pockets are like yours, bikin. They pop right out, even a razorblade or a screwdriver will pop off those rivets.

The problem with your car is that secondary open space below the main map pocket boundary.

Where there is a will, there is a way to achieve up front bass (assuming you want the subwoofer physically forward, not just tune for it.)

I can think of many ways to accomplish the deed when flat subwoofers are used. The least shocking is of the style seen in the NSX thread. It just escalates from there.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Whiterabbit said:


> all our pockets are like yours, bikin. They pop right out, even a razorblade or a screwdriver will pop off those rivets.
> 
> The problem with your car is that secondary open space below the main map pocket boundary.
> 
> ...


If I didn't mind hacking up my car, I'd already have it take care of.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Ok, I'm been EXTREMELY busy building sub boxes for friends and people on 8thcivic so I haven't had much time to work on my car. I did recieve my PCX-4125 back from repair only to have my dumbass roomate drop it and break it again when moving it. I wasn't quite happy how the previous amp rack was coming out, so I decided to try another layout. (I still might change it again  ) I also was able to finish putting the Peerless SLS 8's and OWII's in my doors. Here is the current pictures.





































My *NEW* Doors


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## ron2002si (Dec 4, 2007)

Did you use red vinyl? I have an 02 si and i am debating on doing somthing like that!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

That's nice, man.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Yup, I used just your run of the mill generic red vinyl, I think I got it at Jo-Ann fabric


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Awesome!! Love everything!

I still want one of your boxes if you are ever making more.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Considering I still have 70 sq yards of fiberglass mat and just bought 5 gallons of B440 resin from US composites. I would say that could be arranged


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

Nice doors!

I really like how you mounted the tweeters. Are they angled up a bit?

How's the stage height?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Tweeters just drill right into the fiberglass. Yes they are angled. I might re-do the drivers side to get it angled a lil higher though. I just sent my PPI amp to ZED to get it repaired correctly this time. Hopefully I'll have some more progress in the next couple weeks after I finish making all this subwoofer enclosure orders.


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

nice


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Thanks. There should be alot of progress with this week. I just ordered new doors, so I will be fiberglassing the old one to show the SLS 8's. The tweeters have been moved up into the A pillars, I should have those wrapped and finished by the weekend. I'm removing a single 12" and wiring up my other sub to my 2200 to recieve 800 watts bridged. I plan on exchange the Perfect for a DIY 12. 

Long term plans is removing both sub pods and staging two 10" in the rear moldings, but I will say that is LONNNG term


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

New door panels, or doors?

How much did that set you back?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Door panels - Doors would have been crazy expensive to ship. I emailed a guy on 8thcivic that had his car totaled. He's shipping me the door panels, trunk lining, A pillars, sail panels, center console, kick panels, and door sills for $300 shipped  I think that is a bargin and couldn't pass it up.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Curious... are you using HID's? 


I've been considering going this route; standard 4300k bulbs. Not sure if retro is necessary or if I could get a plug and play kit. 

I've been reading on 8thcivic but folks there are all over the map with things. I just want a straight friggin' answer.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I am using HID's 6000k kit from XenonDepot. I don't recommend them (XenonDepot) because they were awful I got 2 kits that didn't work as intended. There are plenty of plug N' play kits and I highly recommend getting them. My vision during night driving has improved greatly, I never have anyone flash me, and they were easy to install (about an hour) and they look cool.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

hmmm.. I've been reading one guys DIY there and it looks good. But, I can't seem to find a place that seems trustworthy. I was going to go with xenondepot, but maybe not now.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Im not ripping on Xenon Depot, I have there kit and once I stopped listening to how they asked me to install it and removed the relays the kit works great. With the relays my car would not power them so twice I had to return the kits and they were very unprofessional when it came to returning my calls and answering my questions. I know a few of my friends have the McCulloch kit and have not had any issues. Either way you'll notice a huge improvement over the OEM.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

MaXaZoR said:


> Door panels - Doors would have been crazy expensive to ship. I emailed a guy on 8thcivic that had his car totaled. He's shipping me the door panels, trunk lining, A pillars, sail panels, center console, kick panels, and door sills for $300 shipped  I think that is a bargin and couldn't pass it up.


I just caught this response.

I hate you.

/jealousy


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

wow, that's impressive. What I would do to get a pair of SLS8s in my metro doors...hahaha! 6.5" mids in there now and they're to the edge of the door panel. It looks like it would be a very difficult panel to try to fiberglass over. 

My girlfriend has a 6th gen civic I believe. 2000 LX. Wonder if I could fit some 8's in her car. Maybe some day. Too many projects to work on right now.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I have mixed feelings about this project, I was going to try to keep the doors looking as stock as possible, but having a second pair really gives me free range to go "all out". This being my first attempt at door pods I think I need to consult some pros on the best approach since I don't want to hack up my trial doors and be stuck at square one. I was hoping I could just use fiberglass and bondo, but I don't know how well bondo will adhere to the plastic doors. I was hoping to have my A pillars done this weekend, but unfortunately I had a death in my family and had to travel home to be with my family. If anyone reading this has any cool ideas on the doors and the best way to approach the SLS 8's...Im all ears.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I starting to see a lot of Honda Civics builds going on and I felt left out. So here are some updates I've been working on. Right now, all speakers and amps are installed. The car is fully tunable through my PPI DCX-730, it sounds amazing. I plan to meet up with Don (6Spd) for a tuning session to get everything sounding right. The amp rack will be completed soon. Door panels are being modified 

Here is the work I did on my A pillars to hold my OWII's










Close up of template









Wrapped (used the wrong type of glue, but it still worked)









Resined









ReEnforced









Sanded and primed









Wrapped









Finished and Installed


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Door panels Inserts


















Amp Rack


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Nice work on the pillars, man!


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

the pillars looked very good in person too. Especially for having such large tweeters in them. Very nice job overall. Would have loved to get a full audition of it. Glad to hear you were able to figure out the tuning and hookup for your setup though.

Looking forward to seeing the doors all built up.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Bump...not because I have updates...I mean I do have updates, but this is a bump for having (4) 8th Civic cars in the top 4 Install cars


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## BlueSi4 (Nov 11, 2008)

Build is coming along great, it's changed a lot since I last saw it at Greg's meet at his restaurant last spring.

I will be starting my build soon, so be ready for some questions and I would like to meet with you one day so you can show me a few things, still a little bit of a noob when it comes to fiberglassing.


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## WolfSong (Aug 16, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> Bump...not because I have updates...I mean I do have updates, but this is a bump for having (4) 8th Civic cars in the top 4 Install cars


Heh... hope you get some updates shortly Josh...


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Im TRYING to get this done, except my girlfriend usually has other plans for my time during the weekends. I usually get a few hours a week to do any work on my car personally, most of my time is now spent helping others get fun toys for their cars. I'll post some updates soon though


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

So I know I haven't been updating this build much, but here's a quick peak at what's coming next.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

salivating on my keyboard:blush:


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

dang.. f1


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Well I finally got some free time to work on my own car. Here's a quick rundown on whats changed

Head Unit:
_Was_: 
Pioneer D3
_Now_: 
Alpine CDA-7990 and TME-790 7" Screen
Also 6 disc DVD changer will be added

Amps:
_Was:_ 
ADS PH30.2 (still for sale)
PPI PCX 2200
_Now:_ 
DLS A4 (Running Mids and Midbasses
DLS A5 (Running Tweeter and Subs)
Also will be adding a small 2 channel if needed

Speakers
_Was:_ 
Peerless SLS 8's
Dayton RS52 Mids
Hiquphon OWI-fs

_Now:_ 
Dynaudio MW172's
Dynaudo MW152's
Hiquphon OWI-fs

Processing:
_Was_:
PPI DCX-730
_Now_:
Alpine F1 Status H900

Let's get started on the amp rack. First I wanted to keep it simple, I realized that I change gear out so much that I couldn't keep trying to fiberglass everything. I wanted to display all the amps and the H900 which is hard in a small trunk like my Honda Civics.

Everything needed to be kept in the spare tire well and needed to be easily removed.

Base









With Amps:









With H900:









Amp rack sides:









Put together:









Side Pictures:


















Rear:


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Installed:


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Just picked up a LP 952 to run the tweeters.

NO Comments...come on guys I need feedback!


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

wow, that trunk really sings! i can't wait to see the rest of your install, esp. the doors!


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

It looks great. Keep it up.


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## ibanzil (Jun 29, 2008)

Big fan. Beutiful amp area. Hope all keeps going well. How is it sounding?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

nice rack


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

LOL thanks...hopefully have some more progress this weekend, wait on some Resin from U.S. Composites.


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## zatchmo (Mar 9, 2008)

Excellent looking. I love it! I would like to see some pics of your new components. I want to do Dynaudio components in a bad way. I kinda want to stay 2 way for simplicity (and I can get away with 2 amps then) but if a 3 way can look good, they sound SOOO much better. I was also going to use the JL HD series amps for efficiency reasons. I'm not a big fan of melting alternators. 

Thanks!!!!


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## zatchmo (Mar 9, 2008)

Excellent looking. I love it! I would like to see some pics of your new components. I want to do Dynaudio components in a bad way. I kinda want to stay 2 way for simplicity (and I can get away with 2 amps then) but if a 3 way can look good, they sound SOOO much better. I was also going to use the JL HD series amps for efficiency reasons. I'm not a big fan of melting alternators. 

Thanks!!!!


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Heya bud, long time no chat! OMG - you've been hard at work eh? 

The glass work is really nice! I'd love to see the whole new look! POST PICS! I heard you'd done some interesting things with your door panels and put drivers in pods on the pillar - so I had to come see what you'd done - really nice work buddy! Good job!

You have to tell me what you think of your new drivers! I'm really curious particularly of the low end option you've went to, but also the big picture. I really want your honest input! Ever since I used a set of Dyn tweeters to replace a wonderful set of ADS home tweeters, I've had a hard time getting excited about Dyns - but I know that isn't fair either. Actually though, the morel mw265 (4ohm) that I'm running in my doors is probably a Dyn build anyhow.

As for me, well I've got a lot of work coming this summer and will have to post pics myself if I ever get it done. First of all, I am taking the big move!!! Putting both my 4.5" Scan Air Crics and my 4.5" scan 12m mids in a pod on the apillars! lol - I am praying that it will look ok, but I am convinced that my imaging and stage will improve and I've always loved having my drivers up high. While the kick panels actually are a really nice sounding setup, I just HAVE to try it to see what happens. I'm also rebuilding the trunk so I can glass in my friggin JBL GTi sub (with its 11" depth!). I'll probably use a pretty similar build to yours. The amp rack is either going into the tire well (less likely) or being built up vertically with the Zapco flat and the McIntosh angled so the meters can be seen through a window still. Also toying with some dash mods to put my media player, remote, cell, ipod and some possible VU meters all have a specifically designed location... but that part is optional.

Anyhow, keep up the good work and wish me luck bud!
Jim aka Less


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## adrian (Mar 7, 2009)

wat kan of glue du yu yiuse for the fless


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I either use a CA type glue, or just plain old heat gun...whatever is more convienent at the time.


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## Yuck. (Dec 28, 2009)

Any new pics or updates? I have a '07 Si Sedan and will do something similar with the sub, but am not sure the best way to do a simple but effective amp rack. I've seen your build and bikinipunks, any other notable ones? Good work on kicks for your first time, they look top notch!


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I have a ton of updates, but want to wait until the build is done... I don't have a lot of time to work on my car and rather post up a single update rather than get people excited and not have anything to show for it. I will say that currently I have install 10" midbasses in the doors.

Those kicks are just sitting in my parts bin and will probably never go back in the car if you know someone that wants them.

Check out the installs from Less, scooter99, amitaF...am I missing anyone?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

So this past weekend I was going to visit Don to discuss some work and to look into getting the Micro Precision full range driver to use as a center channel. Long story short, I was cut off and forced into incoming traffic on a two lane highway. My car collided with a Hummer (which suffered NO damage) All in all the car will be at the body shop for awhile, but good news is that no one was injured. 

Here's the pictures of the carnage


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## Yuck. (Dec 28, 2009)

Oh crap dude, at least everyone is ok. Sorry about the damage, but my buddy works for honda if you need any parts at a discount. If you need anything else at all, lemme know. You always went out of your way to give me detailed assistance, so seriously don't hesitate at all. Take care brother and God bless!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

that totally sucks, Josh. the important thing is no-one got hurt,considering what you were up against.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Wow man, yea like everyone else said, considering what you went up against glad everyone is ok. Suck about your baby though! Something similar almost happened to me the other day with my daughter in the car even, and right up there with her safety was my concern for my car. Crazy how things happen sometimes. Hope it gets fixed soon buddy! Good luck!


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## 6spdcoupe (Jan 12, 2006)

Did you get any updates on this yet Josh ? The report should be ready right ?

I also spoke with Ken and the officer on scene, wasn't pretty though.  Hopefully it worked out.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

The report is ready today, but they won't fax it to me. I have to get my rental and drive down to pick it up. Most likely tomorrow I'll find out what the deal is. So far my insurance has picked up everything minus the $500 deductible.


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## NoelSibs (Jun 21, 2010)

I was excitedly reading through your thread and I am really sorry to see what happened. Glad to hear no one was hurt and that the insurance is doing it's job. Hopefully it all works out. Keep us posted on the progress of the repair. I'm sure people here will help if they can. As I am from the Philippines, I can only offer you my best wishes and good luck. If there's anything I cans end from the Philippines, let me know...

Great build log so far. Hope things work out well for you.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Any update on the civic? Are they fixing it? What's going on?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

It's fixed and back in my garage, I still need to get a few things worked out. I'll be posting pics shortly.

Thanks for asking


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## NoelSibs (Jun 21, 2010)

Great news!!! Looking forward to seeing the progress... Good luck!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Great glad to hear it!


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## Yuck. (Dec 28, 2009)

Glad to hear you got your baby back dude, good luck!


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