# Hurricane Nuts



## Pb2theMax (Aug 26, 2005)

If you use regular T-nuts in your installs then you have to try these. They are much better than T-nuts, especially when you need to mount them close to an edge and you don't want to chip off some wood, like you can sometimes do with MDF and T-nuts. They really bite into the wood, and can take a lot more torque than a T-nut. I usually put a dab of epoxy under them, hammer 'em down in the hole, and then insert a washer and bolt from the other side and tighten it down to really pull the nut into the wood before the epoxy dries. They have sizes 8/32", 10/32", and 1/4". http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=081-1080


Here they are on a speaker baffle I made.


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## CAMSHAFT (Apr 7, 2006)

Very nice. Thanks for the recommendation.


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## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

I like to use threaded inserts like these from Mc Master Carr. I can drill in the pilot hole and just screw these in. They have exceptional grip, wont ever pull out unexpectantly, and are 100% removeable without tearing up the MDF. Just look at how close I can get to the edge of the speaker pod without problems. I use these on all the pods I build for my customers and for myself. They are like $10 for a bag of 100ct:


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## cam2Xrunner (Apr 30, 2005)

Cool. Both ways look pretty good. I like the first ones posted because it looks impossible for it to come out since there is the ring on the other side anchoring it down. 

I gotta get some


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## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

AzGrower said:


>


Do you think this is ever going to come loose and come out? One of the reasons I switched to the threaded inserts was because I have had way too many problems and failures using both t-nuts and h-nuts...


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## Pb2theMax (Aug 26, 2005)

I might try those inserts when my Hurricane nuts run out. PE and Lowe's have 'em.


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## Tirefryr (May 15, 2005)

Personally, I like the threaded inserts better. I usually use the hurricane nuts, cuz it seems I'm always placing an order at PE and it just works out better to shop at one place.


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

So what are you actually passing bolts into? Stock mounting hole locations?

Nice Daytons btw  Those the 180's?

I actually had to use the window guide holes, and also use nuts on the other end of the sheet metal in several locations to secure my huge lower MDF panel. Anyone have any ideas for that? I think people say they just screw into the thin door metal?

-aaron


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## Tirefryr (May 15, 2005)

ArcL100 said:


> So what are you actually passing bolts into? Stock mounting hole locations?
> 
> Nice Daytons btw  Those the 180's?
> 
> ...



I'll never use a sheetmetal type screw. Too easy to strip or work loose. Best bet it to use a riv-nut setup. It's an insert that is threaded like the above pieces but it's inserted in the metal and "riveted" in place.


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

Tirefryr said:


> I'll never use a sheetmetal type screw. Too easy to strip or work loose. Best bet it to use a riv-nut setup. It's an insert that is threaded like the above pieces but it's inserted in the metal and "riveted" in place.


Like this:









That's amazing!!! That will be awesome for redoing my doors this summer, thanks!!!

-aaron


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## Tirefryr (May 15, 2005)

Yup those are the ones.


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## Pb2theMax (Aug 26, 2005)

ArcL100 said:


> So what are you actually passing bolts into? Stock mounting hole locations?
> 
> Nice Daytons btw  Those the 180's?
> 
> ...


In my '05 Tacoma, from the factory there were plastic inserts, like the ones in your bumpers that hold your license plates. But they didn't anchor down tight enough for me, so I pulled the plastic inserts out and put the bolts through the hole and used a washer and locking nut on the backside, then I installed the speaker into the baffle. It's real solid now.

Here's the front baffle. It is replacing a crappy stock 6x9".



The white stuff around the perimeter of the baffle is non-hardening modeling clay. I bolted the baffle overtop of a bead of it that circles the stock hole. IMO, it works like a gasket. It makes a tight seal and adds some extra dampening.


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## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

Rivet Nuts Click on link and enter this item number 97217A393 http://www.mcmaster.com


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

AzGrower said:


> Rivet Nuts Click on link and enter this item number 97217A393 http://www.mcmaster.com


Awesome, thanks! I can't wait for school to get out...

Pb2 nice job 

-aaron


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## shinjohn (Feb 8, 2006)

I've had great experience with rivet nuts and other types of threaded inserts, both for car audio use and other applications.......

Just in case people are interested in pictures showing rivet nuts in use:

http://www.pbase.com/shinjohn/stage3_video

These pictures show rivet nuts used to hold a video screen mounting plate to the roof structure in a minivan....


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## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

ArcL100 said:


> Awesome, thanks! I can't wait for school to get out...
> 
> Pb2 nice job
> 
> -aaron


I get all of my inserts from Mc Master Carr, they are dirt cheap, the shipping is very reasonable (partly due to the fact they have warehouses in about 15 cities), and they have all the relevant sizes available...


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

just thought id resurrect this thread after my experiences with hurricane nuts.

so a while back i bought a box off of marv and as anyone who has bought from him knows, the box comes screwed and glued and built like a tank. i have multiple subs and like to listen to them all so i bought a box from him that i can swap out the front piece at will. in order to do this with no problems, i decided to use hurricane nuts to keep from stripping the wood. on the inside of the box (where id be mounting the nut) i dont have a ton of space and thus cant hammer them in so ive been pulling them in using a hex bolt and a socket wrench. now the problem ive been having is once ive gotten the hurricane nut in, it tends to spin in the wood. because of this, i figured the prong approach of a t-nut would be a better choice for me so i just put in an order for some from mcmaster. of course, _after_ i ordered, i came on here and did another search and found this thread where the OP explains that he puts a bead of epoxy under the nut before the final tightening. anyone think this would solve my spinning nut issue?


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