# Audison SRx vs. LRx Sound Quality & Is too much power a problem ?



## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

To those that have used both lines of Audison amplifiers, how would you compare the overall sound quality between the SRx and the LRx amplifiers ?

I realize that the SRx amps might now have 'it' down low, but what about comparing the LRx and SRx lines, at similar 'on paper' power ratings, for the powering of Midbass, Mids and Tweeters ?

I am desperately trying to keep the peace with the powers that be (_read: the wife_) and attempt to use some of the existing stuff I have, before buying more stuff to add to my ever growing collection.

I would love to run a pair of LRx1.1k's to power my passive Hertz MLK3 front stage, but do not own a pair (of LRx1.1k's)....yet.

*I do however own a matching pair of SRx2s* - 2 channel amps that put out 180w x 2 @ 4ohms, 600w x 1 @ 4ohms and might consider using them instead.

There are a couple ways I can run them into the MLCX3 crossovers, but *the easiest way* would be to run them both bridged mono @ 600w RMS to each crosover input. *Is this a stupid idea ? Is this simply too much power ?*

*The 'safe' way *would be to run both SRx2s amps in stereo and bi-amp the MLCX3 crossovers using (4) 180w RMS channels, delivering 180w to each midbass, then 180w to each tweeter/mid to share. This ofcourse, gives me more tuning flexibility, but complicates things in my mind.

I simply want to run as much power as I can, safely...and still maintain sound quality. Again, the SRx amps are not my first choice, but they are here and ready for use.....

A little advice ?
Cheers,
Allan


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

Allan, you can always dial down the gains - the too much power theory is really a mute point, as long as your system's drivers are are balanced in output seems to me. Were it me, I'd keep the SRx's you have and I, too, own an LRX5.1k. As they say, install and tuning are the real keys to a good system, and my guess is that given the power capable by the SRx's you already have, the only real benefit you might get from new LRx's would be possibly be more crossover flexibility (which you don't appear to need), and perhaps a mildly lower noise floor. But will you hear the difference? Even if you sell your SRx's for used LRx's and pay very little more, not sure it would even be worth the trouble.

Now, maybe someone would disagree, but seems like you might be the your own best judge about the quality of the SRx's versus the LRX series since you own both.

Now, were it me, I'd use that LRX.1k to go active on your front stage and power your rears (since you already have them) with just one those SRx's then call it a day - makes far more sense to me, and you could then sell off those passives and the second SRx for a little beer money.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Hoot said:


> Allan, you can always dial down the gains - the too much power theory is really a mute point, as long as your system's drivers are are balanced in output seems to me. Were it me, I'd keep the SRx's you have and I, too, own an LRX5.1k. As they say, install and tuning are the real keys to a good system, and my guess is that given the power capable by the SRx's you already have, the only real benefit you might get from new LRx's would be possibly be more crossover flexibility (which you don't appear to need), and perhaps a mildly lower noise floor. But will you hear the difference? Even if you sell your SRx's for used LRx's and pay very little more, not sure it would even be worth the trouble.
> 
> Now, maybe someone would disagree, but seems like you might be the your own best judge about the quality of the SRx's versus the LRX series since you own both.
> 
> Now, were it me, I'd use that LRX.1k to go active on your front stage and power your rears (since you already have them) with just one those SRx's then call it a day - makes far more sense to me, and you could then sell off those passives and the second SRx for a little beer money.


Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate the ideas.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Has anyone gone from either an LRx5.1k---->LRx2.9 amplifier swap/upgrade/downgrade to their 4ohm subwoofer ? or from an LRx2.9---->LRx5.1k ?

I am wondering how the *LRx5.1k's [email protected] 'auD Class'* Sub channel compares to the _*LRx2.9's bridged-mono [email protected] 'Class AB' *_?

No crossover features etc...just purely a power & sound quality question.

Is it safe to assume that due to the implied efficiency gain of the LRx5.1k's auD-Class channel vs the LRx2.9's AB-class channel, that the power difference, or end result would be minute at best ? .....possibly leaving the LRx2.9 sounding a bit 'smoother' for those who prefer class-AB subwoofer power ?

Which would essentially be a better choice to power a single 4ohm subwoofer that is rated to accomodate either amplifier ?

Anyone ?

Obviously the sub I will be powering is a Hertz ML3000, as in my Sig.
Cheers,
Allan


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Allan74 said:


> Has anyone gone from either an LRx5.1k---->LRx2.9 amplifier swap/upgrade/downgrade to their 4ohm subwoofer ? or from an LRx2.9---->LRx5.1k ?
> 
> I am wondering how the *LRx5.1k's [email protected] 'auD Class'* Sub channel compares to the _*LRx2.9's bridged-mono [email protected] 'Class AB' *_?
> 
> ...


Anyone ?


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

Since I'm already linked to the thread, I'll jump in with some more thoughts. For those of us wanting an SQ-oriented system, it is easy to split hairs about equipment choices, and issues such as class AB-power versus D-power. D-power, as you likely know, is going to be more efficient. It is going to draw less current, and your alternatator won't hurt so much, if you already have a mega-watt system and like to boom, or just play loud.

I don't think you should even worry for a second that the sub channel in the LRX5.1k won't serve your needs. Mine drives two 15-inch subs and these subs are in a SEALED enclosure - you'll never use all that power (750 watts at 4 ohms, or 1100 watts at 2 ohms) unless you are db-dragster. Difference in sub-output SQ? Personally, while others may disagree, once again I think you are splitting hairs. Would Audison short-change folk on the sub-channel of a $1500 5-channel amp? Who is going to hear the difference?

#1) Install and #1b) Tuning.

While your at it, and you've perhaps read, or had others suggest this, but you really might wanna try eliminating your rears, as well; or, if nothing more, just power them with the miniscule power from your HU (though some might argue that would heat up your HU and not be preferrable). I, however, would argue that if you are playing music at the sound decible-level that you likely will be (given your apparent wattage cravings), you truly won't hear much from your rear speakers (or certainly won't need to). As such, you could then axe both rear speakers, and not only sell off your passive crossovers from the front ones, but sell the rear speakers and both SRx amplifiers. If you still, then, want to spend $ on car audio, buy yourself a killer processor with the money from your sales.


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## sqcomp (Sep 21, 2009)

I don't know if I fit into this category you're asking about. I went from a 1.1K to a 2.9 when I changed woofers. I was going to use two ID15 woofers and decided to be a little more conservative and ran only 1 ML3800. That's when I noticed that I could get a little more power from the 2.9 at 4 Ohms bridged mono. I'm also running a 2.9 on my mid basses.

I'm also trying to jockey a test run of an Arc SE 4200 to compare and contrast the sound on the same mid bass speakers versus my 2.9 right now.

I do know an Audison dealer that is trying to get rid of a spare 1.1K...


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Hoot said:


> ....If you still, then, want to spend $ on car audio, buy yourself a killer processor with the money from your sales.


No one wants my crap....lol

I actually already have a BitOne that I am considering putting to use, unless I decide to spring for a Stage4 Pioneer CD Head Unit....
(or Japanese eqivilant).

I have enough equipment right now, I just have to decide what I want to do with it all. It seemed for a while that my hobby was actually
shopping for car audio, rather than enjoying it....lol....and needless to say, I got carried away, as I changed my mind daily/weekly.

*As far as Speakers/Power/Processing Ready to go, I have:*

(1) Audison BitOne.1
(1) Audison LRx5.1k
(1) Audison LRx2.9
(1) Audison SRx4
(2) Audison SRx2s

(1) AudioControl DQS w/DDC
(1) AudioControl 2XS
(1) AudioControl 4XS

(1 set) Hertz MLK3 Components
(1 set) Hertz MLK2 Components
(1 set) Hertz MLK165 Components
(1 set) Hertz HSK165 Components
(1 set) Hertz ML3000 12" Sub
_(soon to add an additional pair of 8's so that I can crossover my 12" down LOW)_

......and no SOLID PLAN for what I want to do with any of it yet. This doesn't even include my head unit collection, partially still in transit.....hehe
*I just keep entertaining the idea that whatever doesn't go into my Skyline GTR will go into my SUV....so no waste.*

I have tried selling, but no one seems to want what I have to offer, so I will just put it all to use, rather than give it away by selling it all cheap.

*I made the mistake of starting out with 'compromising' equipment choices* at first, then replacing items with what I really wanted to begin with.

The ONLY thing I have not changed my mind about, is my single ML3000 subwoofer setup.....every other area has been upgraded atleast once.

My biggest worry is, I only get 1 shot to do this.....and I don't want to regret anything once it's all installed, hence the saga-like constant threads and questions from me. Indecision is a killer....


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

Honestly, 5 amps? If you want to run 3-way with the 8" midbasses, just keep the LRx amps and call it a day. Put the amps up on ebay; even if you don't get entirely the coin you want for them, you'll get something, and save yourself both time and money on the install.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Hoot said:


> Honestly, 5 amps? If you want to run 3-way with the 8" midbasses, just keep the LRx amps and call it a day.


Actually, it's more like; 3-way front stage (MLK3), 2-way rears (MLK2), pair of 8's in the rear deck that run up to about 120hz, then the single 12 ( ML3000) that runs up to 50hz......

I think I will manage the 3 subs as a single entity out of the BitOne using a 120hz lowpass, then pre-amp fed into an AudioControl 2XS with a 50hz crossover point, sending the 50hz highpass to the 8's (_so, 50-120hz range_)and the 50hz lowpass to the 12" (_30-50hz range with subsonic filtering_).
I think the easiest way to power these will be using the 750w mono channel from my LRx5.1k to power the 12 and the stereo 170w x 2 channels to power the 8's.

The rear 2-ways will use the Hertz passive crossovers to split them up, using 1 amplifier channel per side. I will power these 2 channels using the 60w x 2 channels from my LRx5.1k.

The fronts, to keep things simple, will run the Hertz 3-way passives and get powered from my LRx2.9 @ 260w RMS/channel .....and call it a day.

This keeps me at 2 physical amplifiers and control everywhere I need it, as the passive crossovers can be tuned slightly as well for added flexibility and staging.

This is essentially the easiest way I can figure on how to get everything connected, easilly.....using the least equipment.


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

Allan74 said:


> This is essentially the easiest way I can figure on how to get everything connected, easilly.....using the least equipment.


Might there not be better/more simple way? I assume you've perhaps heard the KISS principle referred while reading this board? Why not focus your system goals on getting the best sound versus "trying to get everything connected?" 

I say this because the more gear you have, the more places you invite noise to enter your system, not to mention the more difficult your system becomes to balance and tune, doncha think?


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Hoot said:


> Might there not be better/more simple way? I assume you've perhaps heard the KISS principle referred while reading this board? Why not focus your system goals on getting the best sound versus "trying to get everything connected?"
> 
> I say this because the more gear you have, the more places you invite noise to enter your system, not to mention the more difficult your system becomes to balance and tune, doncha think?


I just ran the BitOne setup on my desktop and figured that I can get everything done without the addition of any other crossovers/processors etc if I use the following setup:

_(Theoretical BitOne setup)_
- *Front Stereo Channels*, Full Range/Highpass @ 90hz to MLK3 Passive System.
- *Rear Tweeter Channels*, highpass @ 125hz to MLK2 Passive System.
- *Rear Woofer/Mid Channels* bandpass 50hz to 125hz, to 8" rear deck sub (mono pair).
- *Subwoofer Channel* lowpass @ 50hz to subwoofer.

*Again, this narrows things down to use 2 physical amplifiers.*
- Audison LRx2.9 @ 260w RMS x 2 ----> Front Stage, MLK3 Passive Setup.
- Audison LRx5.1k @ 750w RMS x 1----> Single 12" Subwoofer.
[email protected] 170w RMS x 2-----> Rear Deck 8" Subs (170w each).
[email protected] 60w RMS x 2------> Rear Stage, MLK2 Passive Setup.

I don't think I can simplify things much more than that.

If you can think of an easier, or more efficient way to get things done, I am open to all suggestions.

Cheers,
Allan


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## jmil1974 (Dec 24, 2007)

Do you ever have rear passengers in the Skyline?

Your BEST bet, for pure SQ (MHO) - run 3 way active on the front stage plus your sub stage. From experience, going passive to active will make more positive impact than intra-Audison upgrading. This simplifies things further, removing drivers and weight from the car. You're already set up with a BitOne or you can run it all active from your deck and simply run /semi-active with midbass/midrange or midrange/tweets. 

My suggestion is:

- Audison LRx2.9 @ 260w RMS x 2 ----> Front Stage, MLK3 Midbass.
- Audison LRx5.1k @ 750w RMS x 1----> Single 12" Subwoofer.
[email protected] 170w RMS x 2-----> Front stage MLK3 Midrange.
[email protected] 60w RMS x 2------> Front Stage, MLK3 Tweeter.

The jump from 2 way to 3 way is something else, right? The jump from passive to active is even more dramatic, assuming tuning is correct. The beauty of your setup is that you can simply mimic the factory passive XO settings and tune from there. I did this with my DLS Iridium setup and loved it, already trying to go back.

Then put all the other gear in the SUV where passengers actually ride.

Try the simple 3 way active front plus sub, you will be amazed how it sounds in a small coupe.


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

Jmil offers the only solution in my opinion; even if you have folk riding in the back from time-to-time, they'll never appreciate the sound like you will plus it's not like they won't be able to hear your beautiful stage from the back seat with nearly 2000 watts of power from the LRx amps, alone. My gawd!  Seriously, that Skyline is a small vehicle with a tiny cabin.

Honestly, Allan, if you don't follow the above advice now, you'll eventually be in this camp and be regretting spending all that money. Please recoup your moola on all but the 3-ways, the LRx amps, the subwoofer and the BitOne. And, another very important consideration - personally, I would not put the 8-inch midbasses in the rear deck. You'll be sending them frequencies above 80hz and you don't want your soundstage to be smeared behind you. Spend the money you save on equipment on the install - you'll need someone with skills to get those 8s in the doors which will take both time and money (perhaps the most critical part of you system, as it won't be easy).

I didn't want to say it, Allan, but it is an absolute CRIME to run those 3-way Hertz components with passive crossovers when you have a BitOne!


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Hoot said:


> Jmil offers the only solution in my opinion; even if you have folk riding in the back from time-to-time, they'll never appreciate the sound like you will plus it's not like they won't be able to hear your beautiful stage from the back seat with nearly 2000 watts of power from the LRx amps, alone. My gawd!  Seriously, that Skyline is a small vehicle with a tiny cabin.
> 
> Honestly, Allan, if you don't follow the above advice now, you'll eventually be in this camp and be regretting spending all that money. Please recoup your moola on all but the 3-ways, the LRx amps, the subwoofer and the BitOne. And, another very important consideration - personally, I would not put the 8-inch midbasses in the rear deck. You'll be sending them frequencies above 80hz and you don't want your soundstage to be smeared behind you. Spend the money you save on equipment on the install - you'll need someone with skills to get those 8s in the doors which will take both time and money (perhaps the most critical part of you system, as it won't be easy).
> 
> I didn't want to say it, Allan, but it is an absolute CRIME to run those 3-way Hertz components with passive crossovers when you have a BitOne!


Unless you turn your head, you won't know midbasses are in the back. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-advanced/74088-midbass-arrays-revisited.html 

I actually think it's a good idea however you must set T/A precisely or you'll get awful cancellation. 

Kelvin


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## Hoot (Jan 18, 2008)

That is a great thread (re, midbass arrays revisited). Subwoofery, so do you still recommend midbasses in the back over a correctly built midbass in the door of Allan's skyline? I know the obvious answer might be that it doesn't matter, but seems to me the doors are still preferrable, particularly if you've got someone with abililty and experience assisting with the door pods). Would love to hear your thoughts. This will be one of the next significant changes to my system (adding a pair of HAT 8s), and could entertain either option -- doors or deck.

Allan, I apologize for not being familar enough with the Hertz MLK line, and didn't realize the quality of these speakers! Those crossovers just might make it fair fight between that and the BitOne.  You're gonna be a happy man with the right install.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Well he's gonna be using the ML1600 in the doors + a pair 8" to reinforce the midbass. 
That will help against cancellation around 80-90Hz due to the center console (pretty much every midbass mounted in the doors unless angled). 

Kelvin


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## Tommy27 (Jul 27, 2021)

Allan74 said:


> No one wants my crap....lol
> 
> I actually already have a BitOne that I am considering putting to use, unless I decide to spring for a Stage4 Pioneer CD Head Unit....
> (or Japanese eqivilant).
> ...


Still got and lrx 2.9 or a 5.1 or 6.9?


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