# Best way to make a bezel??



## sqkev

I hate working with bondo from ground up since it takes quite some effort to sand. Fiberglass takes quite some time to sand as well. I need something a bit easier to work with, doesnt have to be completely rigid. Is there something out there that works? Plastic filler maybe? 

BTW, Im trying to make a bezel to hold a screen that goes into a 2 din slot.


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## alphakenny1

expandable foam might be a good option.


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## scott_fx

i used abs pipe melted in m.e.k. It is the best method i've used to bond plastics when modding bezels (i've used also used the fiberglass and the epoxy methods and nothing beats the abs sludge) I'd use that for at least the setup up; if not for the whole thing. if your piece doesn't flex then you can use bondo mixed with 'micro balloons' and it'll make sanding easier.

here is a picture of the finished product:


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## sqkev

alphakenny, 
foaming is only to make the form no??


scottfx,
can you elaborate a bit on the method you used with the abs pipe?
can I get these parts from a local HD or autopart store??

BTW, I don't really care for the extremely smooth surface either. If anything, I'll wrap the bezel with vinyl or leather and be done with it.


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## scott_fx

all the parts are available at home depot or any hardware store. m.e.k.; found in the paint department, works best but you can substitute acetone if you can't find it.

the abs pipe is in the plumbing section and it's the black plastic pipe. 

basically what you need to do is get a 1 quart metal paint can, and fill it with chips of the abs pipe. I used a hammer and a jig saw to cut it up. if it's cold the hammer will work great. after you fill up the can with the chips, add the solvent. this will depend on how small the chips are. i'd start by filling it about 1/4 of the way, close the lid and give it a good shake. do this periodically through out the day. by the next morning you should have some sludge. if it's too runny leave the top off of the can for a few hours and the m.e.k. will evaporate a bit (keep an eye on it so it doesn't dry up completely). now go to target, wallmart, the dollar store, or a beauty supply store and get some ketchup or mustard squeeze bottles (the kind that you used to see at mcdonalds).

now prep your plastic pieces. if there is any paint on it, you'll have to sand it off. this process only works on plastic, not paint. after sanding you'll need to assemble the pieces in a temporary fashion. I used high tack masking tape (the green 3m stuff you find in the paint dept). when you have everything together use the sludge mixture. A little thicker version is better for initial setup, it wont run as much and it will dry faster. Use the tape to close up gaps from the front side and squeeze out the sludge on the back side (this will reduce sanding). let it cure for a while, drying time will depend on what solvent you used (m.e.k. or acetone), how hot it is, how dry it is and how thick your sludge is. after your piece has hardened (it' will get a lot harder after a couple days of cure time, but it's definitely workable a lot sooner then that). when you remove the tape you should have a rough piece that is structurally sound. you can now add some solvent to your sludge and make a thinner version. this will flow better and fill in the nooks and crannies. now take the thinner stuff and you can apply it to the front side of your piece. watch out for putting too much and having it spill all over the place. this should get you in the ball park. just fill and sand until you're happy. 

if you are planning to cover the piece in vinyl, you'll need it to be just as smooth as if you were painting it. vinyl actually emphasises any imperfection.

hope this helps, let me know if you need clarification


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## scott_fx

also, here is a link for working with foam:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=83348


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## dewi1219

If you do a google search for "ABS sludge method" you can find some information. There is a good tutorial with photos here:
http://eegeek.net/content/view/18/30/


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## ocuriel

duramix makes a filler that bonds to plastic. I beleive hzemall has a great product that also meets your needs.


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## scott_fx

i wouldn't follow that tutorial. first off, don't use bondo with your abs sludge. it's just making a weak point. maybe use duramix; though i dont have any experience with it, but if it's not flexible it will probably crack over time... again, i have experience with all the methods. The acetone isn't as easy to work with as mek. mek dries faster and dissolves the abs chunks faster as well. if you do get pits then use the thinner abs sludge to cover them up, then you may have smaller holes, you can use straight mek to 'liquid sand' these area as well, then for anything left behind use a glazing putty to fill in the pinholes and you'll be good to go. 

some things to note, that i forgot. this method does interact directly with the plastic; melting it, that's why i recommend the thich stuff for the initial set up. it dries much faster due to less solvent therefore it won't melt the original piece as much. if you have major gaps, i'd suggest using a filler piece for added strength. you can get sheet abs from www.mcmaster.com or any car audio installation shop (mcmaster is great, you can get some 1/8" material for dirt cheap) I used the sheet abs to frame out the recessed portion of my bezel and it worked great. 

and one last thing...make sure that the piece is abs, like the kid in that link found out, the sludge wont work on pp.


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## unpredictableacts

...on a side note where can I get small sheets of ABS plastic? i want to use NaamanF methof of grill making where he uses 1/4 ABS plastic and make the form to hold the grills.


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## sqkev

thanks for the write-up

is the sludge (mixture of abs and kep) safe to work with a pair of gloves? or should I use a brush to work with the mixture?
Basically, if I had a mold, it would work best? just fill the mold with the mixture and wait til it hardens, sand and sand??


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## scott_fx

the stuff is pretty safe. i didn't even use gloves and i actually used my finger to shape some concave curves. it'll dry your skin out but isn't life threatening. but do it at your own risk. gloves will never hurt. it is flammable though so don't work around any open flames. 
as far as using it with a mold; i tried it and it doesn't work. the stuff does have airpockets and depending on how thin it is, it'll shrink down a ton. if you want to use something for molds, i'd suggest using the smooth-on products. i've worked with these with great results. they are fast and easy to work with.


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## scott_fx

unpredictableacts said:


> ...on a side note where can I get small sheets of ABS plastic? i want to use NaamanF methof of grill making where he uses 1/4 ABS plastic and make the form to hold the grills.


 www.mcmaster.com should have 1/4" smooth or textured.


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## unpredictableacts

scott_fx said:


> www.mcmaster.com should have 1/4" smooth or textured.


nice...is there any where local I can pick some up....like hobby lobby or lowes? thanks I kind need some today.


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## scott_fx

try your local install shop. i picked up some from circuit city's install bay at one point and time. i think it's a metra product but not sure if it's 1/4", i believe it was 1/8". If you're in Los Angeles, i think there is a place in hollywood tha sells acrylic and abs. if you want me to find out it's name then let me know.


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## MarkZ

Go to the install bay of either CC or best buy. They should have abs plastic by the 1sq foot sheet. It's often perforated though on one side.


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## Kuztimrodder

It's difficult to bond plastics especially dash parts. These plastics constantly release oils used in making and eventually cause glues to release. This is why plastics can be tricky to paint. Just ask anyone who has tried painting the plastic panels on a Honda Element. Also notice brand new cars with plastic bumpers(especially white cars). The paint is always a different shade on the bumpers. This is because of the oils. The best method is fusion. I'll have to try the "sludge" method. I prefer zap-a-gap with zip kicker. The kicker instantly cures the zap-a-gap. Some prefer plastic-fuse but i like the zap-a-gap. Most hobby shops carry it and also small abs sheets. Look here for more info.
http://zap.supergluecorp.com/pt04.html


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## unpredictableacts

Kuztimrodder said:


> It's difficult to bond plastics especially dash parts. These plastics constantly release oils used in making and eventually cause glues to release. This is why plastics can be tricky to paint. Just ask anyone who has tried painting the plastic panels on a Honda Element. Also notice brand new cars with plastic bumpers(especially white cars). The paint is always a different shade on the bumpers. This is because of the oils. The best method is fusion. I'll have to try the "sludge" method. I prefer zap-a-gap with zip kicker. The kicker instantly cures the zap-a-gap. Some prefer plastic-fuse but i like the zap-a-gap. Most hobby shops carry it and also small abs sheets. Look here for more info.
> http://zap.supergluecorp.com/pt04.html


 NOT with CA glue...


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## Kuztimrodder

elaboration needed  

Forgot about SEM. This company has many versions of auto body repair products protaining to plastics. Alot of auto paint supply houses carry this line.
http://www.sem.ws/


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## Whippet

Being a forties newb, I am fascinated with this wealth of info - old posts and new. Amazing stuff ... guys (and gals) getting right in there - fearlessly modding their nice vehicles. This I could get hooked on!


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