# 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T turbo



## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Finally decided to post a build log for this project.

The scope of this install is to attempt to keep the entire install as OEM looking as possible.

When done the system will be 5.1 DTS with a front 3-way set-up that is actively X-overed.

H/U: Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD
*5.1 / Timing Alignment: Pioneer DEQ-P8000*
*CD Changer: Pioneer CDX-680*
*Cell Phone interface: Pioneer CD-BTB200*
*Vehicle Dynamics: Pioneer AVG-VDP1*
*System Equalization:AudioControl DQS w/ remote display*
*Front 3-way X-over: AudioControl DXS*
*Sub-Filter: Phoenix Gold Bass C.U.B.E.*
Front speakers: Eclipse SC8365
Center speakers: Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3" (x2)
Rear speakers: Eclipse SP6900 6x9 
Sub Woofers: Tang Band W8-1363SB 8"
*Front Mid-bass amp: Orion HP-4600 (bridged 150W x2 @ 4Ohm)
Front Mid & Front High amp: Orion HP-4800 (65W x4 @ 4Ohm)
Center & Rear amp: Orion HP-4800 (65W x4 @ 4Ohm)
Subwoofer amp: Orion HCCA-D2400 (1200W x1 @ 1Ohm)*

I know my equipment choices are behind the times but everything in *bold* I had in my possession before I bought that Stealth and before I learned about devices like the JBL MS-8. I still think it will make for a impressive sounding / looking install.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Sound Deadening*

With the weather finally starting to warm up enough, I am able to start working on this project again.

With the hatch plastic out for the installation of my rear strut bar, I decided to start to sound deadening the hatch and hatch floor.

I went with the 25% coverage approach in order to save weight.
I am undecided if I want to go the CCF and MLV route yet in the hatch, the MLV adds allot of weight...like 1lbs per square foot.

Anyways enough of explaining my decision.... on to the pictures:







































As you can see I have more than 25% coverage on the hatch floor....oh well[/QUOTE]


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Center Channel*

I decided that I would bring over the Pioneer equipment that I had in my Saturn, this meant I have 5.1 DTS and Dolby Music II available. So I start with the biggest stealth challenge, getting my center channel without just putting Pioneer's center speaker pod on the dash.

This is what I did with my Saturn and I hated how it looked. Sounded great, just looked too non OEM for my liking. I thought about installing my center channel into the center vents of my Stealth. I read about this being done on another 3S owner's Stereo page. So I spent the whole summer with them closed to see if I could do without them, I didn't miss them at all so I picked up another center vent piece and went to work.

The biggest problem was to find a speaker that would fit there and give the fullest sound possible. I based my driver selection with the Freq. response that the Pioneer speaker pod had, according to Pioneer the speaker pod has a Freq range of 140Hz ~ 30kHz.

I found a Tang Band speaker that has a Freq range of 150Hz ~ 20,000kHz, I figured that this would be close enough plus the shape of this speaker is what appealed to me the most. It's dimensions are 2"x3" with a cutout of 1-13/16" x 3-3/8". I ended up sanding the long side of the speaker flanges down to get them to fit how I wanted but I think I achieved success.

I started by cutting the duct of the center vent like so:









I removed the metal clips that lock this vent into the dash before I cut it in two. After sanding, sanding, and more sanding, I was able to squeeze these into the opening of the vent, it is almost a perfect fit. The grills of the vent lock the speakers from moving forward.

Here is a couple pictures:

















I will use Gorilla tape to join the two pieces back together once I get the back half of the vent sealed off and stuffed with Poly fill . I will also take non-drying modeling clay to seal off the backs of the speakers from the front.

Here is a rear shot:









Once I get baffle sealed off, I will wire them up in series and tape the two pieces back together. The best part is this will still remove like it should and I can replace the speakers should I blow them.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Center Channel Con't*

I sealed the speaker baffle with clay on both sides, I managed to form the clay on the front side to make the front opening shaped like a horn:


























Back side:


















Then I took the vents out and covered them. Thanks for the encouragement about this guys, I knew it needed to be done was just eager to get it done. So here is what it looks like now:










VERY "stealthy" right?

At this point I realized that I can not access the retaining clips behind the vent grills to remove the center vent in case I ever need to service the speakers, so I tried installing my center channel without them, turns out that the vent is lodged in the very good and I was able to remove the metal retaining clips.

From there I cut about a 1/2" off the back side of the duct. I didn't want the speaker terminals interfering with the air ducts. I then cut a plug for the rear from a plastic cutting board, glued it into place and added clay to the joint and surface of the duct to reduce any resonance that may have happened otherwise.










You can also see the nuts & bolts i used to make my speaker terminals. I wired the speakers together in series making the Ohm load 8 Ohms and 30 W RMS, I will be powering 100 W RMS to them, I like head room.

Stuffed some poly fill into the enclosure and taped the two halves together with Gorilla tape. Color the "-" nut with a Sharpie this is what the back looks like:










I have been able to audition my creation by hooking it up to my home theater right channel. Gave it a listen for a little bit sounded really good, actually it sounded better than the KLH speaker that I am using for my home theater. Noted this for a possible set of H/T speakers. So I know that this at least sounds decent at 80Htz and above because that is what my H/T speakers are x-over'd at.

I even have an Orion MaxBass to see if I can play around with the psychoacoustics to gain some bottom end, add the AudioControl DQS to the external processing, I THINK I should be able to make it sound acceptable.


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

Very nice work with the center channel! In for more


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

odj23 said:


> Very nice work with the center channel! In for more


Thank you.


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## tlow98 (Oct 8, 2009)

great rare color on that car! sweet


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

tlow98 said:


> great rare color on that car! sweet


Funny thing is it is not the rare color, in fact in 94 it was produced the most....see:


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Good work....TB makes some cool little speakers. 2x3" and phase plugs no less, lol...ought to be a nice setup!


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## tlow98 (Oct 8, 2009)

Wow good graph there. Anyway still love that color


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Wow, big props on the centre channel! Gives me a few ideas (exactly what I DON'T need )


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Amp rack*

Just a small update, I figured out how to secure my amp rack without putting holes in the chassis of the car.

I attached these to runner boards to the car by using the plastic screw inserts that are used to hold the original compartments in place.



















Now I have the joy of cutting up cardboard to make a stencil that contours to the trim AND my camel hump.


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

nice work... love how hidden they are


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

vfparts said:


> nice center channel


Thank you.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Amp rack continued*

Been a bit since I updated this, been busy but here we go:

Stage one: rough cut...I use pieces of card board to get a basic shape around the interior trim

















Stage two I refine the template with poster board until I am satisfied with it.

















Stage three final cut: I trace my poster board template onto wood and cut it out.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Frustration and redesign and subwoofer enclosure*

OK this "hump in the hatch has been a PITA!! After getting my amp rack finished I learn that how I wanted to layout my system wasn't going to work, so I had to redesign my sub box again. After confirming my box parameters with a tech from parts express it was time to get busy.

The stack:









The assembly:

























Complete and test fitted: Exactly how I wanted it

























I think the box turned out OK time will tell, being my first time building a ported box, it turned out good.

And that brings you all up to date, thanks for looking.


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## armedferret (Mar 27, 2011)

damn fine work on the center channel.

color me impressed for you actually getting a part from Hennessey without waiting 32 years. 

in for more!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Where are you at in Michigan?

Jay


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i'm starting to believe that a michigan meet is needed if any more people start building things


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## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

The fact that your doing a center channel inside your vents on a dodge stealth reminded me of this awesome build: The 222 HP Stereo...&#153;   Eric Bowden's 1993 Dodge Stealth R/T


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I live in Ithaca Jay.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

armedferret said:


> damn fine work on the center channel.
> 
> color me impressed for you actually getting a part from Hennessey without waiting 32 years.
> 
> in for more!


If you are referring to the rear sway bar, that is not a hennessey part, I just put a Hennessey emblem on it.

See the Stealth is built up to either stage 4 or 5. The first owner wanted his Stealth built up, his mechanic knew about the Hennessey hop ups for the 3s platform and contacted them for the parts.









I say 4 or 5 because I would need to verify that my turbos are 13G's...I have no desire to tear into a perfectly running car to find that information.

I contacted Hennessey asked them if there was a way to track the history of my car. I was told that back then they did not keep vin records of the 3s cars that they sold performance upgrades to. I also included a photo of the old "Hennessey" sticker on the "Y" pipe.









They told me that they didn't have that logo anymore but could send me the new raised logos instead....I also asked for a windshield banner as well.

And:









They sent me one.


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## armedferret (Mar 27, 2011)

Still impressed you got anything from them at all, given their history.  

At least you still have your hood!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Piecing the puzzle together*

OK I didn't get as much done as I would of liked to but I got out to the hardware for "T" nuts and threaded rod for the battery tie downs.

Here is the over all view:









Passenger side Batcap with the access hole cut out for the wires to run under the subfloor.










Driver side Batcap with the access hole cut out for the wires to run under the subfloor.









The subfloor is where I will mount the Pioneer Vehicle Dynamic Processor and other thing that you would never access on a regular basis. The the rail attached to the sub woofer enclosures will support the board that the amps will mount to.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Didn't realize you were doing 4 subs. Jobs looks like it's coming along nicely.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you I wish I has the knowledge beyond MDF, but I think the final product will still be nice.

My last install lost to a MR Tunes install by 5 points. And that was in the difficulty of the install, his was fiberglass mine was not.

I still was happy, the installer was building things that won nationals with ISACA, I am just a hobbyist.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> Didn't realize you were doing 4 subs. Jobs looks like it's coming along nicely.
> 
> Jay



What can I say? I like symmetry.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Sorry, but i don't get this install, with the speakers in the vents, a real bad compromise to your hvac system, plus a terrible rainbow effect on top of that....I guess if it sounds good to you that's all that matters


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

It is a 5.1 DTS dolby II install. The vent is dead center of the dash in about neck level, what is wrong with it?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> What can I say? I like symmetry.


I hear ya there. It actually bugs me a little that I don't have another HD amp on the left side of my trunk....

Are you planning to compete with this install? I looked and found zero IASCA shows in MI this year, and 3 MECA shows (which are in Benton Harbor, and I'm not getting my car stolen out there.) Looking like Chicago/Ohio are better options. 

Jay


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

If the center channel sounds as good as it looks, that'll be cool. The sub enclosures also look great so far, I'm diggin' the 8s. what are you going to cover them with?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Chaos said:


> If the center channel sounds as good as it looks, that'll be cool. The sub enclosures also look great so far, I'm diggin' the 8s. what are you going to cover them with?



Speaker cabinet carpet from partsexpress.com

It matches the interior very well.

I was trying to go for a total stealth install but the hatch was allot smaller than I thought, so that is idea is shot. I am thinking of having the trim pieces that will blend the amp rack and sub enclosures into the interior covered with LineX.

I had the LineX coated on my rear strut bar and it matches the interior quite well.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> I hear ya there. It actually bugs me a little that I don't have another HD amp on the left side of my trunk....
> 
> Are you planning to compete with this install? I looked and found zero IASCA shows in MI this year, and 3 MECA shows (which are in Benton Harbor, and I'm not getting my car stolen out there.) Looking like Chicago/Ohio are better options.
> 
> Jay


IDK about actively seeking out comps this year. I am trying to get this done for a huge annual Stealth / 3000GT gathering happening in the end of June.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*UPDATES!*

*Battery placement*

















*Sub enclosure placement*

















*Amp rack*

















That brings everyone up to speed, I am currently playing with carboard and duct tape again to the trim pieces that will hide the batteries and tie the installation into the interior of the car.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

What is in the box?









Oh yeah!









Time to get to work....


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

you look ready to do some great work this weekend. love the look of your trunk setup. where did you get the batteries from?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

MTopper said:


> you look ready to do some great work this weekend. love the look of your trunk setup. where did you get the batteries from?


I got them directly from BatCap....From Ray himself.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Small update*

Here is a small update, another part came in the mail today, this was custom very reasonably priced I feel as well.










It is a BUSS bar, I will be removing the battery from under the hood, so this will allow me to connect the ground wire kit to one point.

I will attach it to some ABS plastic (on order) akin to what was shown on Stealth316.com









I just will not be running a ground from front to rear like the owner did.

Here is the bar testing the fitting of all the ring terminals.









The shiny one will ground the block to the fire wall, the two open spots are for the factory wire...redundant I know but hey they are there, why not use them.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

so i guess i missed it but what are your sub boxes tuned to?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

MTopper said:


> so i guess i missed it but what are your sub boxes tuned to?


43Hz


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Charging Station*

I figured since this car is a weekend driver (if that) why not incorporate a built in battery maintainers?

So I came up with this:










I just used an old game cord spliced into an outlet plug.










Add two Deltran Battery Tender Jr.s










A circuit breaker to easily separate the two batteries.

End of the day, pop the hatch, lift an access panel, pop the C/B pull out the cord, close the hatch, plug the cord in and not have to worry if my batteries are fully charged or not.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> What is in the box?












LOL.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Preemtive Strike against rattles*

It has been awhile since an update, I was waiting for things to come in so I could keep progressing.

The hold up was:









That is 1"x 1/8" x 50' neoprene whether stripping. If the interior trim touches the chassis or overlaps itself, this stuff is a gasket to attempt to eliminate rattles.

Here is a couple shots of places I installed it:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I also placed everything in the hatch area to check for fitment and to secure the battery tie-down panels to the chassis.


























The third amplifier will be on a pedestal centered and above the other two amplifiers. 

Then I was able to carpet and place my distribution blacks that I will have no need to access after the install is complete. I was also able to start running power wire, I forgor how much of a PITA it is working with 1/0GA. All of this is underneath the amp rack board, so look now once covered it is hidden for good or until I need to fix something.....LOL


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

What kind of 1/0? Alot of the newer stuff (Knu Konceptz, Kicker, JL, RF) are really EASY to work with compared to the old stuff. SUPER flexible.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

It is Stinger HPM wire, I can see that it is way more flexible than the Tsunami wire that I used last, but it is still a pain to cut.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*More Wiring*

Today I tackled to fun job of pulling the battery from the engine bay, installing the ground kit and a 75 Amp fuel power kit.

Most on my morning went installing the ground kit, 1/0 GA wire made doing it per the directions....interesting. I ended going from grounding buss bar to T/B...T/B to back head...back head to front head. grounding buss bar to firewall. Alternator bracket to the A/C tie down point instead of the rad bracket. The transmission the the grounding buss bar, and finally the firewall to the engine. Turned out that grounding point wasn't doing anything,

Afternoon / evening building and installing this:

















If you wonder why I mentioned "buss bar and not bat terminal:








Because there isn't a bat terminal to terminate to.

Installed in place of the battery:

























I am hoping that empty void will be big enough to install meth injection when I get to that point.

Then I installed Ninja performance's 75 amp fuel power upgrade kit.

















That also goes without saying that I have the dual batcap 2000s in place and integrated into the electrical system. 14.35V at the batteries while the car is running. I should measure wattage under the hood, should be close to that as well.


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Just a heads up- you can chemically weld ABS plastic w/acetone... it would have eliminated the need for your joining brackets... looks good though-


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Really? I usually bond ABS with ABS dust and CA. Works great for dash work, but it isn't pretty, so it works best on things you need to do bodywork on anyway.

Jay


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Really? I usually bond ABS with ABS dust and CA. Works great for dash work, but it isn't pretty, so it works best on things you need to do bodywork on anyway.
> 
> Jay


Yep, it requires a bit of patience but is extreemly strong when complete... I usually soak the ends that I intend to join till they are soft then join them... it takes a while for them to set up but since it melts the two materials together it acts more like a weld and is stronger that CA in my experience.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Rear speakers*

OK I managed to get my rear 6x9's installed before NG, I wasn't about to go on a 6 hour drive without tunes.

First:
I hit the original plastic with an entire can of rubberized undercoating








You can also see the neoprene gasket that I used to help seal the enclosure against the chassis.

















I still ended up needing to use non-hardening clay to proper;y seal the enclosure against the chassis.


















I even had to use the clay to properly seal the speaker to the enclosure, I needed about a 1/4" more depth. I am not concerned about the clay keeping the seal because of the 2" port that is incorporated into the factory enclosure.

The final touch to the rear speakers that you can not see is the poly fill that I put into the enclosure with the speakers.

To clarify what "NG" is, it is a Stealth, 3000GT, GTO *N*ational *G*athering. It is a week long event that has Road Course driving, Auto-X racing, Drag Racing, Car Show, and Banquet.

I had a blast, it was my first time and I really learned allot about my car and how she can perform and handle....I even managed to place second in the Auto-X in the stock suspension class.

My build log will now be slowing down, I NEED to finish my daughters' bedroom.

Once that is done, I will dive back into my build.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Back at it (at least a little)*

I know this isn't much but since I needed to swap out my new part from the dealership (the big hatch trim that covers the rear wiper motor)

So I thought I would address the rattles that the trim could create and wow does the three small trim pieces make quite a bit of noise when you tapped on them....well they used to.  Let's just say that 1/8" thick closed cell foam with stick back is a great thing




























All the black squares are the closed cell foam.

Then line the edges of the plastic trim:



















Now the pieces pass the "finger thumping" test, no more rattles.

Hopefully more to come, I need to take out the amp rack and driver side stuff to figure out what is catching and holding up the cable to my hatch release.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I was just thinking about this build the other day, and wondering what happened with it.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

JayinMI said:


> I was just thinking about this build the other day, and wondering what happened with it.
> 
> Jay


Jay,

"life" has been happening, if it is not one kid's event it is another. Or issue with the house.

Plus I have just been enjoying the car when I am able to


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I completely understand about "life" happening.

Nice to see you back on it.

Jay


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## TimmyG (Aug 24, 2012)

Nice car! Build is coming along nicely as well!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Wrapped my passenger "A" pillar tonight:




























I am having a lifting problem in that concave curve where the "A" pillar trim meets the dash, I only used 3M's "Super 77" multipurpose spray adhesive to do this job, I have to try 3M's Hi-Strength 90 to keep the vinyl bonded to that area, there is a lot of force to fight in that area.

Anyone with experience here, I would greatly love some advise.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If you can get it, you might try brushing on some contact cement. Super 77+ doesn't hold well enough for that....I don't really believe that Super 90 will hold permanently.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

yeah, Jay I will be redoing the piece with Weldwood Original Contact Cement, I can get that at Home Depot


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Is that vinyl or grille cloth-like material? If it's vinyl use it on both sides. if it's a light material like grill cloth, apply it to the a pillar, let it flash off and then apply the fabric.

Jay


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

it is cloth backed vinyl


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## chevyrider96 (Mar 5, 2010)

Nice build, Nice car


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

This build has not died, I just got distracted with performance / handling upgrades. This build will be finished in 2014.

Looking at options over the winter that will allow me to achieve what I am looking for but reduce the number of components needed to save space and weight.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. Good deal and am looking forward to the closure on this.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Me too, this year I did the following:
Powder coated valve covers & intake
Stillen down pipe, deleting all the cats
Front and rear sway bars
HKS twin intake
Poly motor mounts
Baffled Oil Pan
Pre-Set Cam Gears
3rd Gen Lifters
EGR Delete
Krank Vents
Greddy Type S blow off valve
Pre-Turbo Hard Pipes (powder coated)
3SX Phenolic Spacers
JDM front brake ducts
Bought new ECS struts and modded them to be as close to coilovers I could get
Tein pillowmount strut plates
Ground Control sleeve springs.

Took the car to NG13 and was amazed at how the car handles on the road course now.

Here is the engine bay now:



and one more fav shot while on the road course:


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## rockytophigh (Apr 16, 2008)

Had a 96 VR4 and miss it every day. Now get back to building mister....the car looks outstanding!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I could not imagine selling mine now, bums me out that I can not drive it as often, but at least the mileage stays down, car currently has 32,xxx miles.


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## OldScoolCA (Feb 3, 2010)

Good friend of mine had a TT Stealth back in the day. Fastest I have ever been in a car!


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## mitchjr (Mar 8, 2010)

Subscribed


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

OK, been a long time overdue and the lack of a heated garage made progress over winter impossible.

I did get my A-pillars done, but that was a nightmare. I first took them to a reputable shop and this is what I got back.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I was zero impressed with how the shop did the driver's side with the gauge pod, I understand it is a complex shape but damn....really this is the best you could do?

As I took it apart, I saw why he made those three bands that are across the thing, they cover up a hack job seem that didn't even meet to the other material.

So after I stripped it I started searching for another shop that could do the job better, I found a shop and after explained how it was done, he took the time to explain my options, and even took the time to grab some scrap material and give examples how how he was going to do it.

And this is what I got back:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

The reason for only the single french seam vs. the double is that the holes that need to be cut for the gauges are so close the the edge that I would of cut the stitching when cutting out material to mount the gauges. There was also two small areas that Gary, the shop owner told me that he just could get in there with his machine to do double french seam.

When I get the plastic cutout for the wiring to run though the A-pillar, I will post pictures of the gauges and tweeter installed.

This is how it SHOULD of been done the first time.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

The other development is that I finally found gauges that will match or be super close to my amber OEM lighting.

Here are two pictures:

Here is the set at day:



one gauge at night (sorry my powersupply was too weak to properly light it up)



The gauges are to monitor the following:

Fuel pressure
Oil pressure
Oil temp
Water temp
Wideband A/F

I also decided to change out my orion Amps and I am waiting for Arc Audio two release the new XDi1100.5 amplifiers.

I love how they look like the PS8, and I will only need two of the 1100.5 vs. the three orion amps. The trade off wattage wide is that I will double my wattage for everything but subs, and the subs will be 250W vs. 300 per dub. And I know that will not effect that output of the subs that drastic.

Now if Arc would just release the rest of the new XDi V2 line. the remote display for the PS8 would be nice too.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Installed the tweeters and gauges.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

And with the new release of Arc Audio XDi amps I have decided that I will not be using my Orion Amplifiers, here is the update list of hardware for this system:

H/U: Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD
5.1 Processor: Pioneer DEQ-P8000
DVD/CD Changer: Pioneer XDVP90
Blue Tooth Interface: Pioneer CD-BTB200
Vehicle Dynamics: Pioneer AVG-VDP1
System Equalization / X-over / Time Alignment: Arc Audio PB8
Sub-Filter / Sub-Processor: Phoenix Gold Bass C.U.B.E.
Front speakers: Eclipse SC8365 3-way components 
Center speakers: Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3" (x2)
Rear speakers: Eclipse SP6900 6x9 
Subwoofers: 4: Tang Band W8-1363SB 8" Subwoofers
Amplifiers: 2: Arc Audio XDi1100.5 
This will be:
6 channels @ 150 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms (Front mids & highs / Front mid-bass / rears
1 channel @ 150 Watts RMS @ 8 Ohms (Center)
2 channels @ 500 Watts @ 2 Ohms (Subwoofers)


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I have not given up on this:

some minor progress:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I did a test install of the driver's side to make sure that I was happy with the rotated position of the faces of the gauges:





































Now to start preparing the wiring so I can get this installed.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Routed the wiring for under the driver's A-Pillar, I extended all pigtails so that the connections will be in the dash, not behind the A-Pillar. This will be easier to install the part and not have to guess if I am pinching wires.










ALL wires are laying perfectly flat so that they will fit between the plastic and the A-Pillar:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Long time no update:

After spending some time matching amplifier wattage to speaker wattage I am not using the Orion amplifiers, I want to use the new Arc Audio XDi1100.5 v2's, a pair of these will give what I need vs. using three Orion amplifiers, so I am also saving weight.

In making that decision I also started to analyze my electrical needs, with much help from some good members on this forum I was directed to the information required to properly calculate what I was going to need.

Using that information I discovered I didn't need the Batcaps in the rear, yeah weight savings!!!

So with that, here is the changes:

I added a battery back under the hood, this eliminates a huge headache, the requirement of needing a master kill switch located externally on the car. I enjoy taking my car to Auto-X, road course and drag events, with my current set up I ran the risk of failing tech inspection. Now that will not be a concern.

I researched here for some reputable battery brands and went with the X2 batteries from batteries plus, I have one local to me so I didn't have to wait on shipping plus if I need to warranty the thing...again it is local. I was able to fit a 880CCA group 34/78 in the factory spot.

First I needed to remove the shelf thing I built out of ABS and move the ground plate up against the fire wall:









Then I needed to relocate the distro block used to tie in the factory power wire:








This distro block will allow me to easily run a 1/0 GA wire from the alternator to the factory power if need be.

Safely tucked away with a zip tie around the cover to make sure it never comes of and shorts out.









Here is the battery in its stock location:









Was a joy figuring out how to run all that wire in an organized fashion in such confined quarters, but it is done and I am about 38 pounds lighter too.


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## WhiteL02 (Jul 25, 2014)

Nice work!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

The whole hatch is emptied out right now, making new board that the distribution blocks and wiring is mounted to under the amp board, the original was swiss cheesed with holes for wiring that was going to be needed.

New board is cut assembled, and I am going to carry out the Line-X coating vs. carpet this time.


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## MotoCARR (May 27, 2015)

A bit off topic, but how has it been as far as reliability goes? I fear that it's like my 300zx with either four or six of everything and a pain to work on! Stealth/3KGT have always been a bucket list car for some reason!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I say they are just like any other old sports car, I do drive her hard but I refrain from dumping the clutch. The trick is to find one that is NOT ragged on and beat on over and over.

I bought mine with only 24,9xx miles.

I have seen the engine bay of a 300zx tt, it looks just as intimidating as the VR4 / tt engine bay. 

Check out 3sgto.org forum and search / ask questions. We have an annual gathering called The National Gathering, this year it is at the National Corvette Museum, We will be driving on the track, having an auto-X event as well.

It is awesome to be able to drive these cars like they were meant for and NOT worry about getting a ticket.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

OK started laying out my hatch once again, still keeping the general layout idea, but without the rear batcaps, and with those gone, I didn't need the charging station seen in the lower center of this picture:










I was thinking that this cubby would no longer serve a purpose but:










It will serve as a cubby to hold my fused distribution block. Right now it isn't much, but as parts of various projects come in it will button up real fast.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

OK spent time with installing new rear splash shields and mud guards that I had coated in Line-X. Now that is done and the car is off the jack stands I was able to re-wire the hatch without rear batteries:




























This will support the pair of Arc Audio Amps I will be getting plus the extras like a sound processor.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Spent my afternoon / evening playing with cardboard, working with multiple templates to get one just right....This is the final product: 



















Now to take it to Line-X.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Got my trim pieces back from Line-X:


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## WhiteL02 (Jul 25, 2014)

Looks great!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you, it will end up being the most difficult trim to create with the complex curving of the the plastic in the hatch.

I know the screw caps are bulky and break the flow, but with the fuel pump access being under the sub box, I needed to be able to pull this out to service it.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Was able to load the driver's subwoofer box today:





































Used Bassboxpro6 to design the box. Vb is .402 FT3 tuned to 42.87Hz resulted in a flat output that tapers off like a sealed enclosure.


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## dallasneon (Nov 3, 2005)

Love the funky pup stickers!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you, I didn't get them on perfect, and was frustrated at first, but now I think it adds to the "quality" that the Funky Pup subs was known for.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Got the stuff I needed to get the driver's sub box in the car permanently I hope:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Speaker Wiring (The Devil is in the details)*

Spent some time carefully routing speaker wire while labeling it so when the amps get installed it is just a matter of putting holes in the amp board for the wires to come up through. I also have speaker pins, cable pants and colored heat shrink to make the ends of the wire clean and color coded.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Also weighed a loaded sub box, 32LBS so two boxes 64 LBS, willing to bet that amp rack, wiring, disto blocks, and trim panels are another 32LBS and the amps are 7.3LBS each, 

whole sound system will be around 125LBS....not bad for trying to keep it light.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Safety First / Oh So Close:*

Took the time to secure my sub boxes before getting all the trim installed today:



















Then got all my trim pieces installed:



















The only thing left to go is extend the false floor to the seat backs and add a dividing wall to separate the amp area from the rest of the space:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

*Glue, Sticks, and Things*

Today I ordered my amplifiers, they should be available in about a week. What I did today was reminiscent to Kindergarten...I shall call this work done today "Glue, Sticks, and Things". Working on the final false floor piece that will meet up to the rear seat backs. Lots of contours here:

Centered a rectangle board the proper depth


















Started gluing wooden skewers to the ends to get the contour shape:


















Once that dries, I will do the other side, once that dries I will have a template that I can cut the final board.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Ran the extra pair of speaker wire to go full active in the front stage of the sound system and secured them to the floor of the car laying flat so that the bump up in the carpet is minimal. 


















Added two more anchor points for the rear false floor to attach to the car, and installed T-nuts for securing the front false floor to the rear false floor. 


















Carpeted the front false floor and added speaker gasket to the edge to eliminate the chance of squeaks from the shifting of the car, and in process of finishing up the front bulkhead. 



























I am open to popular opinion, do I carpet the face or Line-X? Being that the seat backs are carpet that would make the whole area carpet, or being that everything from the floor up is plastic Line-X would work too, so let me know what you think.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

While I am waiting for my last amp to come in I made a schematic of the whole sound system.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

More progress:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

OK, I started fastening all these pieces together to prevent anything from flying up at me in the event of an accident. So far, it is all going as planned:

3/8" anchors:









There are covers for the bolts:









They are attached to these blocks that are attached to the false floor, using 3/8" bolts again:









Height of the bulkhead meets the bottom of the back seats perfectly:









Angle steel attached to the false floor for the small bulkhead:









With elongated holes to allow minor adjustments to the height of the small bulkhead to the top of the subwoofer boxes, the Line-X will affect the overall height.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I am wanting some opinion on this:

I have been designing this whole system to still have the ability to secure the sunroof in the original location. Here is what I have so far.

I do not care for how the PVC posts stick out like a sore thumb but I think once coated in Line-X it will not be so bad.

What say any of you?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I got my amps today too!!


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## Valdemar (Aug 19, 2014)

Nice work. 
can you fiberglass around it and finish it?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Valdemar said:


> Nice work.
> can you fiberglass around it and finish it?


I have never fiberglassed a thing ever, I am looking into a collar that will clamp on to the rear strut bar and hold the sunroof.

That was something that the manufacturer was working developing but never completed.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Cold weather and Christmas events have slowed down my progress:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

UPDATES!!!!! With Christmas done, year end completed with the financials at the my church, (I am the treasurer and do Payroll), and along with the weather being a little nice....I was able to address the sunroof holders with a MUCH better idea:

I designed some brackets to hold the front in a similar fashion as the OEM held them before I installed my TecPerfomance rear strut bar.

A huge shout out to Corey Brabant for helping make these brackets a reality.


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

2fnloud said:


> I got my amps today too!!


Did all of this stuff just happen to match (killer tinted brushed look) or did someone do this finish for you? They look great!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

1FinalInstall said:


> Did all of this stuff just happen to match (killer tinted brushed look) or did someone do this finish for you? They look great!


Just got lucky, thank you


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

More progress:
































































The remaining filler work will need to wait until it is above 50F, for it is in car work.


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## 7okai (Jan 4, 2016)

LOVE this car!!! Not just the install (although looks like it's coming along very nice). But stealths are on my bucket list. Being a Michigan resident also I would love to see all these installs I read so much about.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

7okai said:


> LOVE this car!!! Not just the install (although looks like it's coming along very nice). But stealths are on my bucket list. Being a Michigan resident also I would love to see all these installs I read so much about.


Thank you! If you get one or you are ready to buy let me know, I am active in many stealth / 3000GT groups, I can find you a 3S (what we call the platform)

Where in Michigan are you?


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## 7okai (Jan 4, 2016)

Thanks 2fnloud, but I'm not looking to buy right now. I just bought a Grand Prix gxp that I love and after this car I think I'm moving towards a G8 GT. But I will have a '93 stealth at some point (I like the hideaway lights). I live between midland and mout pleasant ish. Would love some pointers on my install!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

This unrelenting cold weather has brought my work to a stand still (unheated garage), but I got to thinking about other details of my install, like how my Pioneer radio only has one remote lead for power antenna and amplifiers.

Switching the radios was not an option so I started researching switch options, but I wanted a factory looking switch, my research found this:










It is a antenna switch from a Volvo, it is a two pin switch that is a simple single throw switch, so the wiring is a no brainer.

I removed the cyan optic filter










So now the light that shines through is white:










Trust me it is white. With an amber LED behind this it will match my OEM lighting, and look stock. I will be installing this in the change dish right below the radio, and I can lower my antenna for the other operations now.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Finally was warm enough to play with the fiber reinforced filler to take care of a tiny triangle area:



















Once this is all black (Line-X coated) it should look like it blends much better.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Did a proposed layout of the amplifiers and processor, nothing fancy but will look neat and orderly:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Pieces back from Line-X :Banana:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Found time to get the front carpeted and test fit the DVD changer:


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Changed my mind on dash speakers




























These are a 3" vs. the 1.5 I had in the dash location:










Will sound and blend better between the 6.5" to 3/4" tweeter. And it looks stock.


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