# 2005 Mazda 3 Hatchback SQ Install



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Well, I'm at it again. The old Lancer is gone and now I'm working on the Mazda 3 hatchback install. I'll update this thread with pics as I go along, just like the old thread.

My goal is to do a 2-way front stage (midbass plus wideband driver) with a sub. Im not sure yet if I can get one up front, but that will be the goal if possible. I plan to (and have started) fiberglass the a-pillars for the widebanders and make some baffles to squeeze 8" midbasses into the doors like I had on the Lancer. 

Here is the list of equipment so far that I will have available to use:

Peerless XLS 430891 8" old XLS midbasses 
Tang Band W3-1364SA bamboo coned, neo 3" fullrange
JL Audio XD600/6 amplifier
Arc Audio 4150-CXLR amplifier
Pioneer DEH-80PRS source unit

I'm undecided on the sub right now but I have a few ideas brewing. I would love to install up front, possibly in the passenger footwell, but I need to check my space and figure out what I have to work with first.


Just a few pics to kick off the thread here as Ive started glassing the pillars already...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I also started laying down some Rage Gold but didnt get pics of that yet. Will probably be another day or two before I have some more updates. Oh, and for reference- These are aimed on axis to the driver...I dont care about a "2 seater" listening experience. Since Im the only one in the car about 98% of the time, It doesnt make any sense to me to do it any other way. And I don't believe that firing drivers across at each other is the best way to get a good tune either...in fact it sounds absurd to me, but anyways...I digress.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

looks cool so far


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

req said:


> looks cool so far


Thanks req, stay tuned as it should get better


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## .:stealth:. (Oct 29, 2011)

damn, I wish I knew how to do fiberglass. I really need to get into that....

Looks like it's coming well. I'm curious to see how those 8" drivers will look in the door.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

.:stealth:. said:


> damn, I wish I knew how to do fiberglass. I really need to get into that....
> 
> Looks like it's coming well. I'm curious to see how those 8" drivers will look in the door.


You and me both brother! I'm hoping it wont require as much crazy modification as it did with the last install...otherwise Im going to have to drop down to a 7"er. (You can see the last build using the link in my sig...)

As long as they have the clearance behind the panel, I should be good to go.


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## .:stealth:. (Oct 29, 2011)

captainobvious said:


> (You can see the last build using the link in my sig...)


I wanted to, but all your pictures have bad links.


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## mytmous (Apr 17, 2012)

sub'd


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

.:stealth:. said:


> I wanted to, but all your pictures have bad links.


Start at post number 32 and work up from there. Only some of the links are bad, most of it is good to go


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A few more pics and updates. I got a little more Rage gold on the pillars toay in between taking my door apart and scratching my head...

For those that haven't done any fiberglassing before, the reason why I drilled the holes in the pillr panels is so that the resin can pass through the panel and create a stronger bond from the front to the back of the piece. It doesnt typically bond very hard to some plastics, especially if they are bendable.




















And on to the doors... I guess I should have expected it to be a nightmare, eh?After taking the door panel off, there is a molded inner cover panel instead of a complete steel panel. I guess this is becoming more typical of newer cars? Anyway, it's going to make for more work for me for sure to be able to get a good solid mount point for the baffles and drivers. I cut a section out and will end up having to cut baffles anddo some fiberglassing to mate it to the door panels. And to make it more interesting, with the window down, i have limited mounting depth so hopefully there is enough clearance once I get the baffles and drivers behind the panels...


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## mytmous (Apr 17, 2012)

Interested in watching this one. I've got the same car.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

A lot of newer cars are build like this...with more going this way all the time. I like it...sure makes deadening the inside of the door easier.

Jay


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> I also started laying down some Rage Gold but didnt get pics of that yet. Will probably be another day or two before I have some more updates. Oh, and for reference- These are aimed on axis to the driver...I dont care about a "2 seater" listening experience. Since Im the only one in the car about 98% of the time, It doesnt make any sense to me to do it any other way. And I don't believe that firing drivers across at each other is the best way to get a good tune either...in fact it sounds absurd to me, but anyways...I digress.


Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own. 
Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

jonnyanalog said:


> Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own.
> Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.



Some of the A-pillar builds are way over the top and really do look like tumors


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

jonnyanalog said:


> Unless the car is like a Honda Fit, Prius, or similar I really dislike on-axis A-Pillar installs. No matter how discrete you try to make them they still look like tumors. I'm not that into sound to compromise the appearance in that way. But to each there own.
> Its nice to see another 3! Can't wait to see how you resolve the doors.


Thanks Johnny. If they are integrated well, I think they can look "ok". But honestly, if you're doing them in the pillars firing across from each other, why bother? 
Better to stay away from the pillars all together at that point. In this instance, I have more pillar/dash space than I did in the old Lancer, and I knew I liked the sound much better on axis and up on the dash so I decided that was the route to take. Hopefully I can make them look presentable, but Im more concerned with the sound really. And it's only a single 3' speaker so it shouldnt be too crazy. The doors will definitely be a challenge though!


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## Firewall (Sep 29, 2009)

Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.

Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Firewall said:


> Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.
> 
> Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.


Sounds like a lot of work for a small gain


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Firewall said:


> Can you replace the plastic inner door skin with a fibreglass one? It looks to have enough curves to be stronger than the plastic without being too bulky and you could reinforce the back if necessary.
> 
> Should provide a strong surface to mount the door driver.


I agree with Trojan Fan. The panel itself is fairly sturdy actually. Its at least a 1/4" thick and is a molded plastic composite. I think just cutting out the section needed, and then glassing to the panel to bond should be pretty good. (Of course more goes into it than just laying glass in the panel...drilling holes so it will bond, etc) I'll also use some material on the plastic card to deaden if it shows resonance issues. I didnt have any noticeable with the stock speakers which did have surprising output. That said, they'll be moving nowhere near as much air as the midbasses I'll install.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Worked on getting some baffles/rings cut out yesterday. Need to trim them at the corners to fit behind the stock door panel and then test fit before fiberglassing. I'll probably just use some popsicle sticks and hot glue to hold them in place.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> I agree with Trojan Fan. The panel itself is fairly sturdy actually. Its at least a 1/4" thick and is a molded plastic composite. I think just cutting out the section needed, and then glassing to the panel to bond should be pretty good. (Of course more goes into it than just laying glass in the panel...drilling holes so it will bond, etc) I'll also use some material on the plastic card to deaden if it shows resonance issues. I didnt have any noticeable with the stock speakers which did have surprising output. That said, they'll be moving nowhere near as much air as the midbasses I'll install.


The panel is really stiff; the only area that is 'weak' is at the top of the door aft of the centerline. There is this translucent patch of super thin plastic. I think its an access hole of some sort. The only other area is where the wires go in towards the sheet metal. Its a think piece of foam tape-like material. I covered both of those areas up so no air will leak out. 

I always seemed to have trouble getting good response from mid-basses in my doors. NOt sure why. They are deadened really well...maybe too well? 
On this next round I'm might try some SLS's possibly with maybe an Aura Widebander in the sail panels. 
What I have noticed in this car is the road noise; its really noisy. Hopefully the ensolite in the doors will help cure some of this. NExt step is MLV on the floors, wells, etc.


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## Firewall (Sep 29, 2009)

Didn't realise it was that thick 

Then you should be good to go with just reinforcing like you planned.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Well... it looks like I'm into more work than I had hoped. The XLS midbasses are a little oversized (bigger than the SLS) and requires more clearance to (a) allow the door card to go back on, and (b) to not hit it from the inside.
So that means... CUTTING the panel. Jeez, feels like dejavu here...
This door build should be quite a bit easier than the last one though since I can cut out a nice sized spot and then just build frames and grills to attach to the door skin after. The tougher area is inside the door where I will need to mount the baffles and secure them/fiberglass to the existing structure.
I got the panels cut with the rotozip yesterday and trimmed the baffles down a bit more to fit better. Next up, I need to screw the baffles into place just enough to get the fiberglass mold going. I'll mask off the door and lay it up, then when its done, I'll secure the mold and baffle with screws to the door metal frame.
























Here's the panel sitting over the existing speaker on the passenger side.








Baffles/Rings glued up and trimmed.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I also am making some progress on the A-Pillars. Getting more material layed on and sanded down until they look like I want them to. I will most likely wrap them with some sort of fabric once they're ready.


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## dales (Dec 16, 2010)

good work so far man.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

dales said:


> good work so far man.


Thanks Dales, a long way to go still! I should hopefully get a little more time to work on it this afternoon.


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## [email protected] (May 18, 2012)

looks good so far


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## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

nice build


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Update:
I got some more work done this weekend. First off, I did some more filler on the pods and sanded, repeat. I just did a test fit on them so you can see those pics here in the first post. The second post will be the work on the doors.
Here's what the pillars look like naked:
















The drivers side 
















And the view from the headrest








These are aimed on axis fyi. They still need a little finishing work and then I hope to ge tthem wrapped with some kind of material. I want something with a little texture so that it hides imperfections. Would suede/alcantara work well or will it show too much?


On to the doors...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

First a little comparison. These are the M&K Peerless SLS 8" drivers which I used for a bit in the old Lancer. They are deeper than the standard SLS because of a doublestacked magnet, but essentially the same diameter. These 830491 XLS drivers definitely have a little larger footprint and a bit more cone area. Very similar mounting depth to the M&K though.









Because of the way the door was contoured, I knew I would have to fiberglass to the existing inner panel to mat eit up with the baffles I cut out. I measured and test fitted the baffles in relation to the door card to make sure they were lined up properly for fitment, and then I used some clamps to hold them in place on the door. I used some extra gril cloth and stretched and secured to the inner plastic skin. I did the first coat with some straight fiberglas resin, then followed up in additional coats with chopped mat added in for strength.
















Trimmed away excess material...
























Now it needed to be further secured to the door with bolts/nuts. I cut away the door metal so that the driver can now fit through the hole unobstructed. Then I used some long machine screws with lock washers on the top end and lock nuts on the back side. I recessed the heads so that they wont interfere with driver mounting.
























Closeup of the screws/lock washers


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

You'll notice in this pic that I began filling in the space between portions of the baffle and the door with the resin/chopped matt. Before doing this I also drilled out holes through the door metal so the resin will make a good strong bond. I also brushed resin mixture in on the backside of the stretched material by just reaching in through the speaker hole, making sure to get all of the spots where the back of the baffle meets the material and the door.











Still more work to be done, but I tossed the XLS in the door for a visual and to make sure I had the proper clearance between the back of the driver and the window.
Damn they look big in those doors, eh?


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## Reyne (May 18, 2010)

How about flocking for the A pillars.


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## southpawskater (Feb 17, 2010)

Dig the pillars, and love to see people stuffing 8s in their doors :laugh:

Keep up the good work!


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

lookin good love the pillars


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Got a little more work in today. Added more filler to the pillars and sanded. Then sprayed a coat of black on them to bring out the blemishes so I can continue on finishing them.

Here's the product(s) I use:










Pillars sprayed


















Shown in the car after drying. Looks better from the outside than the grey. Especially when you're modifying the stock look. The black looks inconspicuous.


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## dales (Dec 16, 2010)

good stuff man


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A few more updates. It was a HOT weekend and I only had time to work ok the car on Monday afternoon but I got the speaker wires run from the hatch to the doors and a-pillars. It was a real PITA to get them in too because you have to remove alot of junk to route the wires up in the dash. I also have a few pics from work I did a few days prior, I just didnt get a chance to update. I used a better texture spray I picked up at home depot and it gave me the texture I was hoping for. This stuff really hides small imperfections on the a pillars. I sprayed a black over the top of the texture coats. I also got the passenger side plastic cut, baffle mounted and resin applied. I soaked the baffles with resin as well to prolong their life. I just need to get the excess metal from the door trimmed out of the opening for the passenger baffle, do a little more fiberglassing in the doors, and then I'll be ready to deaden and test with speakers.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

what texture spray did you use?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mic10is said:


> what texture spray did you use?


It was in the home depot spray paint isle along with the other texture sprays like "hammered" finish. This one was the "stone" texture. Ill get a pick of the can when im at the garage again for you.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Got some more wiring done. I techflexed the power cable and ran it from the hatch on up to the battery, I used the plastic loom over the top of the techflex in the engine bay. I also added a breaker Just inside the firewall behind the kickpanel. There was no good mounting spot for it right at the battery and this is no more than a couple feet away so it works well.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

This is where it goes through the firewall. No metal contact, it passes through a plastic coverplate.










And finally, I drilled a bunch of holes in the door panels and fiberglassed over them to get good adhesion to the existing panels. Things are slowly coming together.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Nice job on the pillars and doors! Got me itchin' to install my old Peerless 8" XLS's in the doors, too! Just apprehensive about cutting sheetmetal and doorpanels on my new SUV. :-( Also still have an Arc 4150...Love that amp!

Loving your install so far and can't wait to see more!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

bbfoto said:


> Nice job on the pillars and doors! Got me itchin' to install my old Peerless 8" XLS's in the doors, too! Just apprehensive about cutting sheetmetal and doorpanels on my new SUV. :-( Also still have an Arc 4150...Love that amp!
> 
> Loving your install so far and can't wait to see more!


Thanks! I got some more work done today and hopefully will get speakers installed tomorrow and ready for some initial testing. Ill post some pics tomorrow for you. 
PS- send that old cxlr on over to me and ill put it to good use for you


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Some more pics from yesterdays work as promised...

I got the doors dampened with leftover material from my last build. I had probably 40 square feet of Fatmat left over. Not the best stuff out there I know, but I'll use what I have so not to waste it. I used my heat gun to heat the material during application which made it easier to get into all the tight spaces and provide better adhesion. The baffles were already resin soaked previously for weather protection. I also put some deadening around the baffles and the surrounding material just to add some more mass and strengthen it a little more.




























In this picture you can see the weather shield I put in. Its a curved piece that was adhered to my baffles that extends out over the driver on the inner portion of the door to protect them from rain/water drippage. I had initially used some aluminum flashing with some deadening on it but due to window clearance issues, i yanked these out and then put in what is probably the better option anyway- 1/8" Volara closed cell foam. Its water resistant and wont vibrate. It's much stiffer than a neoprene but still gives under pressure so if the window rubs it, no issues!










Then I used contact cement on the baffle face and applied some ensolite type of foam as a gasket.










I trimmed away the outer excess and left about 3/4" on the inside so I will get a really nice seal for the oversized XLS drivers.





















More to be done today. My plan is to get the drivers mounted in the a-pillar pods and then connect up to an amp temporarily in the hatch so I can test things out, search for any problems, locate resonance issues, etc.


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## Mopar244DIY (Dec 1, 2009)

I am loving the work you are doing. Looking forwards to seeing the finished project. I wish I had the courage you have. 8's in the doors ...... Wow !


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mopar244DIY said:


> I am loving the work you are doing. Looking forwards to seeing the finished project. I wish I had the courage you have. 8's in the doors ...... Wow !


Thanks! Anyone can do it, it just takes alot of time and some thinking about it 

I got all the drivers in today and the JL XD600/6 hooked up to test them out. I still need to tweak the crossover settings and gains as it sounds off still. But I have tunes at least!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I'll be working this week as I find time (hopefully Wednesday) to get things going in the back end of the car next. I have several sub options so I'm going to try to build out my structure with a removable baffle plate that can be swapped to accomodate a mutlitude of options. Since I'll be utilizing the spare tire well, I should have a good amount of airspace in the box and then simply manipulate it for any driver(s) I want to use with a new front baffle. I will likely be flush mounting the amps so that everything, sub included can be hidden in the hatch area. Time to start sketching up some plans...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Here's a few pictures with the latest update. Im working on the sub enclosure/amp rack for the hatch area.
This piece will be the bottom or base of the rack. It will have a cutout in the center over the spare tire well.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I masked off the tire well and framed out the structure for how I plan to mount the subs. What I intend to do is make the "tub" or airspace enclosure for the sub(s) removable. The frame for the tub will mount inside of the cutout shown on the lip (it's 1.5" thick on the mounting base). The tub will be a portion of the spare tire well and will be formed with mdf on the side walls and fiberglass. You can see in the last picture the beginnings of the side panel pieces which will extend down into the well.After this is completed, the subwoofer baffle will mount on top of the tub. On top of that, there will be a full trim panel with cutouts for the sub(s) and amps which will mount on the base board and reside on either side of the sub(s). When all is said and done, the top trim piece will be flat and carpeted to look stock. I'm not sure yet if I will use plexi to display the amps, or just use a metal mesh grille material. The reason I chose to go this route (tub and removable/replaceable baffles) is so that I can experiment with different subwoofer setups if I choose to. I could run a pair of 12's/10's, or even 4 8's or a 15" in there.


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## evangojason (Feb 12, 2010)

Nice build! Looking forward to seeing more.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

evangojason said:


> Nice build! Looking forward to seeing more.


Thanks!

Hopefully I'll get a little time to work on it this weekend.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

very cool how you fit those beast xls in your doors. i know they have room but jeez.

you are going to have to fab up a new facia for the doors now though 

what are your plans on that?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

req said:


> very cool how you fit those beast xls in your doors. i know they have room but jeez.
> 
> you are going to have to fab up a new facia for the doors now though
> 
> what are your plans on that?


Moreso, just a grille section. I plan to frame out a grille then use stretched cloth. I can attach it using neo magnets or grille guides.


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Very nice so far


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A few more updates. I got the box fiberglassed using some material Ive had in the basement for a while from a previous order from Fiberglass Supply. I used their Vinyl Ester resin to lay an initial mold and then I used a mix of the Ester resin, Talc and chopped matt strands to get a thick mixture which uses less resin and coats very well. The Talc can be used to make sanding easier too, but it's mainly used as a thickening agent and to get more coverage out of your resin. Great stuff.




























































































Test fitting


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Next I lined the interior with an open cell foam material and got the subwoofer wire run into it.










Lined up and drilled holes for connections...










Painted the backboard...










Fed wires through and test fitted the amps:




















Both amps are Arc Audio CXLR-4150's. The one has a bad painted finish on it that I bought from a fellow member here. Doesn't bother me as long as it works! (I have to fire it up to test it in a couple days). I will likely have them stripped and repainted at some point. There will be a top cover panel going over all of this though so it's not a necessity right now. I was also considering just polishing them. I could sand them down and use some materials and polishing compounds I have to give it a shot. My only concern would be with the labeling for them. Anyone know a good solution for that?




.


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## Bycher (Sep 27, 2010)

Nice build!!! Probably I will do something like this in my Eclipse 07 trunk  looking forward to get more pix from you! wary interesting, hoe it will looks like after you done.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Trim panel has been cut. It's lined with velora foam on both sides. On the bottom side to avoid any resonance from the sub box, and on the top to add some padding to the carpet which will go on top.











.


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Very nice build Captain!!!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

wdemetrius1 said:


> Very nice build Captain!!!


Thanks Demetrius! I'm no expert at this so I'm working my way through it


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## Got-Four-Eights (Sep 10, 2011)

Good work Capt... Those amps are an awesome choice but you already know that! Can't wait to see the finished pics!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Good work Capt... Those amps are an awesome choice but you already know that! Can't wait to see the finished pics!


You and me both, hah! I'll be glad when I'm done the "building" stage of the project and can move on to the "tuning"!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A few picture updates... Theres some more exciting changes to come, but Im waiting on some things to arrive...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

How do you like the 80 PRS?

Jay


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

looks great!! Cant wait to see and hopefully hear it on Sunday


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Out of curiosity, I thought I read that both amps were the same. Did someone paint one of them?
> 
> How do you like the 80 PRS?
> 
> Jay


Hah, yeah the gentleman I bought it from (very nice guy by the way!) sold it to me this way. I knew what I was getting so no problem there. It works perfectly, just looks like hell. I may just strip it and repaint or polish it. One of the things i eluded to in my post is that one of the things I have coming is another 4150cxlr that matches the blue/purple one. 

I love these amps. Absolutely my favorite that Ive ever used.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> looks great!! Cant wait to see and hopefully hear it on Sunday


Absolutely!

I hope my equipment arrives in time so I can bring a decent sounding vehicle 

It will be nice to get to hear some of these great systems (like yours!) and get an idea of what to shoot for.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Absolutely!
> 
> I hope my equipment arrives in time so I can bring a decent sounding vehicle
> 
> It will be nice to get to hear some of these great systems (like yours!) and get an idea of what to shoot for.


chef doesnt have a decent sounding car anymore....blown factory speakers dont qualify for anything closely resembling "decent".
Its even bad for NPR

if you show up with something that plays music..youll have already bested Chef


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Lol, I can see this should be an interesting Sunday


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Lol, I can see this should be an interesting Sunday


if youve never really been to a show before, i'll save you from making a common newbie mistake--make sure you bring a chair...if you have an EZ up tent , bring that too
and sunscreen and drinks....I like Coke and glacier blue gatorade...thats the light blue, not the regular blue or dark blue.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Capt I had to start over and I haven't had a chance to really start yet. Still gathering pieces to the puzzle so I can compete next season. I would however love to show you the awesomeness that is OEM BMW circa 2003 if you really want.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> How do you like the 80 PRS?
> 
> Jay


I think the output is very clean and I _love_ the featureset. However, Im not a fan of the limited crossover section it provides. For that reason, I am forced to use external dsp's to process the signal properly 
Event the autoEQ works very well, I was surprised. It's not quite as good as my own tuning process, but it's very good for sure.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mic10is said:


> if youve never really been to a show before, i'll save you from making a common newbie mistake--make sure you bring a chair...if you have an EZ up tent , bring that too
> and sunscreen and drinks....I like Coke and glacier blue gatorade...thats the light blue, not the regular blue or dark blue.


Thanks for the heads up! I have some of those fold up chair-in-a-bag deals that I can bring, but no ez-up tent unfortunately.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> Capt I had to start over and I haven't had a chance to really start yet. Still gathering prices to the puzzle so I can compete next season. I would however love to show you the awesomeness that is OEM BMW circa 2003 if you really want.


 
Hahaha, niiiice!

Have you decided on equipment and direction you want to take with the BMW install? Which model is it?

-Steve


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Sorry for the delay in updates. Here are some pictures of the latest work done. 
I installed 2 MiniDSP units and reworked some of the wiring in the hatch to accomodate. The rcas are just a temporary solution until I make some at the custom length needed so I don't have extra wire coiled up. I'll also be using a single RCA pair to a splitter for the DSP modules to supply the amps. To that end, I also have a Phoenix Gold PLD1 line driver to step up my signal voltage from the 80PRS (which is already low) so I get a powerful, clean signal to both DSP's. The less gain I need to apply on the amp side, the better! 

I also cut the metal grill with snips and secured it to the trim panel. Underneath of that, I painted the sub baffle black so it wouldnt stand out underneath the grill. The dash now sports a carpet dashpad which keeps the sunglare out of my eyes, keeps the dash cool and looks pretty good in my opinion.

Oh yeah, I got the black amp out of there and replaced it with a matching blue/purple Arc 4150 CXLR.










Again, this will be tidy'd up once I make some new RCA's.









This is the DSP's power supply and delay turn on/off circuit.




































And the trunk/hatch after getting a little more done. I plan on making a padded carpet cover to go over this so it will look stock back there for prying eyes. I already have the automotive carpet needed and I just need to choose a nice backer for it locally and get moving.



















And a view from the inside...


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Looks good!! Sorry I didnt get a chance to see or hear it last weekend, maybe in B'more in a couple of weeks or Sept in Pottsville.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> Looks good!! Sorry I didnt get a chance to see or hear it last weekend, maybe in B'more in a couple of weeks or Sept in Pottsville.


I'll (hopefully) be showing up to both, barring any surprise wedding planning duties 
Assuming my new DSP module arrives with time to complete, I should have a much better sounding car for the next show.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

yes, next show we will have to audition eachothers ride 

i look forward to it sir!


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

req said:


> *yes, next show we will have to audition eachothers ride *
> 
> i look forward to it sir!


Hmmmm. Interesting.


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

Love the install so far. Have a CWP MS3 2012 myself.  

Any reason why you went with (2) 2x4 MiniDSP's rather a single 2x8?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

kelrog said:


> Love the install so far. Have a CWP MS3 2012 myself.
> 
> Any reason why you went with (2) 2x4 MiniDSP's rather a single 2x8?


Nice, I love the Mazdaspeed 3's! Im not a huge fan of the redesign of the front fashia on the newer models, but still great cars.

Good question on the MiniDSP units. I decided on the 2x4's initially for a few reasons. First- the 2x8 has no option for a case or enclosure. 2nd, it's quite large as compared to (2) 2x4's. It's also more expensive at $299. In addition, I think theres a little more flexibility by being able to run 2 different software plugins with (2) 2x4's vs a single 2x8. (Each unit can only run one plugin at a time). Finally, I was worried about possible noise issues with the 2x8, knowing that a DC isolator board was available for the 2x4 units.

Some of the benefits of the 2x8 though are: Everything in one piece, no seperate programming interfaces. Both unbalanced AND balanced connections for ins and outs.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Working on the doors...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

After the first round of sanding and some more filler applied...


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

im not going to lie, seeing all that filler on top of plastic scares me.

i hope you roughed it up real good and put down an adhesion promoter before you started laying down the bondo... :uhoh2:


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

req said:


> im not going to lie, seeing all that filler on top of plastic scares me.
> 
> i hope you roughed it up real good and put down an adhesion promoter before you started laying down the bondo... :uhoh2:


Hahaha, no worries  It was roughed up (and still is :surprised: )

The filler on the majority of the door panel is taken down to almost nothing. The reasoning behind this was to get a fairly consistent texture over the course of the panel so finishing it won't look all wonky. The area around the buildup where the new grill section is was drilled out with tons of holes for good adhesion to the panel. I'm still not sure how I want to finish it yet though...guess i'll figure that out when I get there. I definitely have some big changes going on though, both on the doors and in the build itself


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

hey man, another PA guy woot  i never ran accorss your other build but i saw you were coming to the pottsvile show so i stopped by to check out your build. looks tight man, very nice. I did a cheap install for my buddy on a mazda 3 last year and i found the dash a bit annoying with that stupid LED display,and my buddy had me put in some stupid LED's and destroyed the display for no reason..but hey its his car. i like how you used it for a USB hub. very nice


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

eviling said:


> hey man, another PA guy woot  i never ran accorss your other build but i saw you were coming to the pottsvile show so i stopped by to check out your build. looks tight man, very nice. I did a cheap install for my buddy on a mazda 3 last year and i found the dash a bit annoying with that stupid LED display,and my buddy had me put in some stupid LED's and destroyed the display for no reason..but hey its his car. i like how you used it for a USB hub. very nice


Hey thanks, much appreciated. Next show, stop on by and introduce yourself!  
The dash kit I used (Metra I believe) deletes the display unit and uses a basic plastic cover. I figured it was a good spot to mount the USB ports. I still have a lot to do to prep for the next show and it needs quite a bit of tuning as well.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

captainobvious said:


> Hey thanks, much appreciated. Next show, stop on by and introduce yourself!
> The dash kit I used (Metra I believe) deletes the display unit and uses a basic plastic cover. I figured it was a good spot to mount the USB ports. I still have a lot to do to prep for the next show and it needs quite a bit of tuning as well.


my system will be nowhere near ready but i hope at least have a tune in it and it running 100% lol maybe not cosmeticly done XD


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

eviling said:


> my system will be nowhere near ready but i hope at least have a tune in it and it running 100% lol maybe not cosmeticly done XD


No problem! You can always enter it in the SQ only judging like I did


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## sirsaechao (Jan 25, 2010)

USB slots are amazing.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

sirsaechao said:


> USB slots are amazing.


Thanks! I've got a few more to add actually! :surprised:

I'm adding USB ports for the individual MiniDSP units so I can easily switch between them to program and tune as needed.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

More work on the doors. I cut out the trim to mold into the door for a good (straight) clean look. I also cut out the steel grills from leftover material which I'll mount from the inside to the back edge of these panels.




























I hot glued them in place and then I started the work on molding these into the door panel. I stopped today after sanding and applying some more spot filler to a few areas.


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## Justin Zazzi (May 28, 2012)

I look forward to seeing how you finish the doors.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Jazzi said:


> I look forward to seeing how you finish the doors.


Me too 
I'm not sure yet if I'm going to texture spray and color coat or if I want to give vinyl a try (I've never done it). I did find a great site to source it though on the cheap. They seem to have a ton of different textures to match just about any interior.

Your Auto Trim Store


.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Hmmm...these may throw a wrinkle into things...

What's this?












and this?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

A little more progress on the doors...
Got the spot areas sanded out. Some pics below show how I sanded the edges to make a nice contour.




























Nice straight edges sanded at the junction of the filler and MDF trim.



















And finally, just a test fit of the grill to see how it will look in place. This will be glued to the back of the trim for a nice clean look.



















.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

Lookin good, Cap'n :thumbsup:


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks Bennay!


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Hmmm...these may throw a wrinkle into things...
> 
> What's this?
> 
> ...


Planning a 7-way front stage?  

Kelvin


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Looks GREAT!! We going to see you this weekend in Bmore or do I have to wait until Pottsville for a demo?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

subwoofery said:


> Planning a 7-way front stage?
> 
> Kelvin


haha, nah...I just get to fiddle around with a few drivers Ive been wanting to test out 

One set of them may end up making it into the install though for sure.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> Looks GREAT!! We going to see you this weekend in Bmore or do I have to wait until Pottsville for a demo?


Unless something comes up, I'm planning on taking the drive out there. Not much greatness to demo in this vehicle right now as I havent been able to do any tuning with the fabrication going on. I guess I'll see what can be done in short order to at least get it respectable.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

It looks like the doors are going to turn out much nicer than the Mitsu. You're doing a great job. Can't wait to see them finished.

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Got a little more done on the doors today. Primed and textured, then a top coat. They're not perfect, but hey- I'm just a hack, not a pro 



















Masked off and ready to go...









Textured



















Top coat. It's still a bit wet and is a semi-gloss. Not sure how I like it yet. I may just go with a flat.











.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Wow! Looks great Capn'!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

bertholomey said:


> Wow! Looks great Capn'!


Thanks bud! I still have to glue on the grills (they're already cut), but it's almost there...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Just a thought, but what about screwing them on from behind instead of glue? Maybe using some threaded inserts on the grill side and some machine screws on the back of the panel? I'd trust that more than glue.

Looks very good. I like the overall shape very much.

Jay


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Looks AWESOME!! Cant wait to hear it in Pottsville


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> Looks AWESOME!! Cant wait to hear it in Pottsville


Thanks Chef! I wanted to get down to B'more this weekend, but it just wasn't happening. I'll be there for Pottsville again for sure though, and hopefully with some interesting new changes 


How did the show go yesterday? Was turnout good? Did you guys end up getting any rain down there? (It ended up being pretty dry up here).


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Just a thought, but what about screwing them on from behind instead of glue? Maybe using some threaded inserts on the grill side and some machine screws on the back of the panel? I'd trust that more than glue.
> 
> Looks very good. I like the overall shape very much.
> 
> Jay


Thanks for the suggestion Jay. You know, I had thought about doing screws too but the only thing that is holding me back right now is the depth (1/4") which makes it a no-go for two reasons. The first, I dont think I can find a screw/insert to work for that shallow of a depth to mount from the back side. (I dont want to lose the clean look on the front side). And second, I dont want to create any clearance issues between the back of the panel and the driver. Granted, there is only one or two spots where it might get close, so probably not a huge concern there.

Were you worried about the glue for adhesion reasons or vibration? I will probably glue them and then silicone seal as well to give an even better bond to the edge where it meets the panel and provide a little dampening.


-Steve


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

hot glue should be fine.

door panels are looking great. 

im not a huge fan of the bedliner stuff - but if you get the right texture it can work out real nice. just too glossy for me most of the time


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

req said:


> hot glue should be fine.
> 
> door panels are looking great.
> 
> im not a huge fan of the bedliner stuff - but if you get the right texture it can work out real nice. just too glossy for me most of the time


Thanks. Yeah this is the stuff I used:










It gives a really nice looking texture (same stuff I used on my a-pillars). Not identical to stock mind you, but nice none the less. If they made it in a black, it would be perfect, I'd have no need for a topcoat. I know Homodepot doesn't carry it in black though (neither does bLowes). Im not a big fan of the "satin" topcoat I put on. I'll have to wait and see what it looks like in the car though. BTW- for others reading this, Rustoleum has 4 different texture spray styles that are sold there. The heaviest texture is a "stone/sand" coat and is very rough to the touch and very visible with the eye. The next heaviest would be the version I used which has a pretty consistent and even texture that is visible to the eye and touch. The third is their "hammered" finish which does not provide much texture visually to me, and finally, the last is just labeled as "textured" and shows almost no visible texture, but is easily felt. Make sure you buy the appropriate one. The bedliner stuff just looks like a rubberized undercoating type of spray, so I would probably only use it to coat things for sealing/resonance.

Andy, did you make it to the show yesterday? If so, how did it go with your first car PC run?


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks Chef! I wanted to get down to B'more this weekend, but it just wasn't happening. I'll be there for Pottsville again for sure though, and hopefully with some interesting new changes
> 
> 
> How did the show go yesterday? Was turnout good? Did you guys end up getting any rain down there? (It ended up being pretty dry up here).


Yesterday was a BAD weather day which killed turnout. We had 7 SQ cars and about 10 SPL. 1PM tornado watch with funky sky, 2:30PM was flash flood watch, show ended and EVERYONE was gone by 3 and the sky opened up and as I was leaving at about 3:15ish the parking lot was starting to flood. 

Looking forward to seeing you again and maybe getting a few minutes to talk this time around...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

chefhow said:


> Yesterday was a BAD weather day which killed turnout. We had 7 SQ cars and about 10 SPL. 1PM tornado watch with funky sky, 2:30PM was flash flood watch, show ended and EVERYONE was gone by 3 and the sky opened up and as I was leaving at about 3:15ish the parking lot was starting to flood.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing you again and maybe getting a few minutes to talk this time around...


Same here! Well, fingers crossed for a better weather day in late september. 
BTW- Do you have plans now for a new system in the car?


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Same here! Well, fingers crossed for a better weather day in late september.
> BTW- Do you have plans now for a new system in the car?


Yes I do...
MUWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks. Yeah this is the stuff I used:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Duplicolor bedliner actually works awesome as a texture coat. Sprayed from a foot to 2 feet away it gives a great texture similar to many OEM finishes like GM etc...

Ive used both. for rougher texture I use the bedliner. for thinner texture I use the rustoleum stuff.
I cant stand SEM texture coat. Ive had too many cans that have clogged after 2 sprays and continue clogging even with new nozzles etc...plus it isnt durable at all


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mic10is said:


> Duplicolor bedliner actually works awesome as a texture coat. Sprayed from a foot to 2 feet away it gives a great texture similar to many OEM finishes like GM etc...
> 
> Ive used both. for rougher texture I use the bedliner. for thinner texture I use the rustoleum stuff.
> I cant stand SEM texture coat. Ive had too many cans that have clogged after 2 sprays and continue clogging even with new nozzles etc...plus it isnt durable at all


Good to know I didnt waste the extra money on the SEM stuff then 

I liked the result on the pillars and seems to have held up pretty well, so I figured I'd roll with it again. I'll have to check out the duplicolor bedliner next time and see the difference.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

i 1st learned about the bedliner spray through Steve Head. If youve ever seen pics of his rebuilt dashes in his civic over the years, it was finished in duplicolor bedliner spray. there were MANY people who thought the dash was vinyl wrapped


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks for the suggestion Jay. You know, I had thought about doing screws too but the only thing that is holding me back right now is the depth (1/4") which makes it a no-go for two reasons. The first, I dont think I can find a screw/insert to work for that shallow of a depth to mount from the back side. (I dont want to lose the clean look on the front side). And second, I dont want to create any clearance issues between the back of the panel and the driver. Granted, there is only one or two spots where it might get close, so probably not a huge concern there.
> 
> If you drilled through the front when predilling screw holes (for threaded inserts) but the depth still cleared the outside, you could use a little filler to fill the holes back in so they wouldn't be seen on the outside.
> 
> ...


Makes sense. Didn't realize they were only 1/4" thick. Typically, if I were to do something like that, I'd predrill my holes. Then I'd use ISO screws (like the ones that come with Pioneer radios). Maybe use a small washer to space them out just a bit. But this is usually when I'm going through the plastic of a factory panel into a piece. Since your frame is probably thicker than door panel plastic, those probably wouldn't work. The screws are coarse thread, and if you put them in by had and don't over tighten them, they work great.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Makes sense. Didn't realize they were only 1/4" thick. Typically, if I were to do something like that, I'd predrill my holes. Then I'd use ISO screws (like the ones that come with Pioneer radios). Maybe use a small washer to space them out just a bit. But this is usually when I'm going through the plastic of a factory panel into a piece. Since your frame is probably thicker than door panel plastic, those probably wouldn't work. The screws are coarse thread, and if you put them in by had and don't over tighten them, they work great.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
> 
> Jay


Thanks Jay!

I had also even considered neo magnets, but it just doesnt make sense if they will be rear mounted (grills). Glue it is !


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## KSUWildcatFan (Jun 11, 2006)

Sweet mother of god, this is incredible. Very, very nice build. Wow.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks bud! Its slowly getting there. I put the door panels on this morning before i left. Pictures coming soon...

I forgot to mention that i used fiberglass resin on the backside of the panels where my frame meets the door in order to create a stronger bond and to reduce the chance of lifting/seperation. I also took the time while the panels were off to add some cld deadening to the back of them to add mass and reduce resonance. The doors are now definitely heavier than they were stock and they shut much more solidly.


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## KSUWildcatFan (Jun 11, 2006)

For someone who claims to just be picking it up as you go along, your attention to detail is fantastic. My install will be much less entertaining.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

KSUWildcatFan said:


> For someone who claims to just be picking it up as you go along, your attention to detail is fantastic. My install will be much less entertaining.


Thanks I really appreciate that. I know professionals could do a far superior job, but with limited workspace and tools (and lets not forget experience and know-how) I just try to get these projectes to a point where I can be satisfied and not have an eye-sore in there, ya know? 

That said, here are the pics from this morning. I had a power outtage and couldnt post them up till now.

























































Color wise, I think it's a pretty good match. The texture looks fine to me. The only thing I have a hangup on right now is the finish of the topcoat which said it was a satin looks alot more like a semigloss to me. I think a flat would look even better. Not sure if I'll change it though. I'll give it a little time and see if I can live with it.



.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

Helluva good job


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mic10is said:


> Helluva good job


Thanks Mic! Means alot coming from someone like you whose builds speak for themselves. Your BMW build was something pretty incredible to see come together in those build pics. The kicks alone were amazing. Shame I wasn't around to actually hear it !


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Shame I wasn't around to actually hear it !


Is that a statement about Mic's age?


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## wheelieking71 (Dec 20, 2006)

man, i really like the direction you went with your doors! the way you finished the panel is fantastic. i really like to see the angles and hard lines, blended, and rolled over just enough to look like they belong there. kudos on a tasteful finished product!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

wheelieking71 said:


> man, i really like the direction you went with your doors! the way you finished the panel is fantastic. i really like to see the angles and hard lines, blended, and rolled over just enough to look like they belong there. kudos on a tasteful finished product!


Thanks! I wanted a nice big open section for the midbasses to play through to prevent the front wave from getting trapped and reflected into the back of the panel. I also figured the straight lines would be a little easier to fabricate and finish when I built it out. I'm learning from my last door build in the Lancer 

I appreciate the kind words, thanks again bud !


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## zhp43867 (Nov 2, 2009)

Updates?


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## soaptray (Jul 29, 2011)

Im just starting an SQ build in my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3... thanks for the walkthrough on the 8's in the doors... doing the same thing myself... but also moving a 6" into the pocket beside it!


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Nice build, my only beef is this should really be in the engine bay, even though you noted that there was no good locations for one.


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

There is a little room in front of the battery box, but it wouldn't be weather protected. Upgrading to a marine grade would be perfect, but expensive. 

Only people that would be really upset about that location would be ones trying to put recessed mid's in there.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

kelrog said:


> There is a little room in front of the battery box, but it wouldn't be weather protected. Upgrading to a marine grade would be perfect, but expensive.
> 
> Only people that would be really upset about that location would be ones trying to put recessed mid's in there.


Indeed 

Although I may be one of those people soon enough! 



It's been a while since I've had any updates to my thread, but I'm looking at really revamping my whole build. I have a bunch of new drivers either here already or on their way to try and get this turned in the right direction. My problem is that I've been largely unsatisfied with the sound in this vehicle overall since I've started working on it a while back. There are some things I like and some I hate.
I'm looking to start fresh with an entirely new front stage and installed in different ways. My wife bought me an awesome birthday present last summer (some new speakers) and Ive had them sitting in boxes waiting for the time to get started on implementing them. With the wedding in October last year and home renovations I've been working on, I just havent found the time yet. The fact that winter is here and I no longer have a garage to work in also doesn't help 

That said, keep an eye out here as there will be some significant changes coming down the pipe!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

I will certainly be watching for these upcoming changes. If I failed to say it before, Congrats on the wedding and new home!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

bertholomey said:


> I will certainly be watching for these upcoming changes. If I failed to say it before, Congrats on the wedding and new home!


Thanks Jay 

I actually downsized, selling my place (with detached garage) and moved into hers after we got married so I don't really have much workspace to speak of, outside of the second floor deck :laugh:
But I did manage to get my door panels done out there last year so I guess it's at least manageable. Part of the problem is that I also had to let some of my tools go with the move since I didn't have the space, so that's a bummer. I might need to enlist the assistance of some board members for some fabrication of a few pieces unless I get really crafty with the jigsaw!


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

you can accomplish alot with a jig saw, router, dremel and some sanders.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Mic10is said:


> you can accomplish alot with a *jig saw*, router, dremel and some *sanders*.


 
2 out of 4 aint bad...?
:laugh:

I'll certainly figure it out though, one way or another. I've got resources available in driving distance.

I may have some questions for you actually as I'm thinking about adding a front sub (in addition to a completely new front stage)...As in how much deadening work should I expect to need to do in the dash area for a 10" sub up front, and does it make any significant difference whether the driver fires into the floor or toward the cabin? Is the juice worth the squeeze for that up front reinforcement?


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> 2 out of 4 aint bad...?
> :laugh:
> 
> I'll certainly figure it out though, one way or another. I've got resources available in driving distance.
> ...


I never had a router til 2005. so I did everything w a jig saw, a crappy skill one for many years and a dremel. all the metal I ever cut out of every car was done with a dremel a a billion dollars worth of cutting discs...oh and "rented" sabre saws on occasions.

and IMO--theres the Illusion of up front bass and then there is having actual up front bass.
so would you rather have an illusion or the real thing?
would you rather look at Porn or have the real thing?

play w the direction thing. that will just be a matter of how it functions in your car and if it loads more in certain angles or creates modes etc...


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Rental saw-zall FTW!


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## Project_dog (May 25, 2008)

How do you get the bondo or fiberglass to stick the plastic doors?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Project_dog said:


> How do you get the bondo or fiberglass to stick the plastic doors?


What I do is drill a bunch of small holes in the area where you'll be applying any bondo/glass and also rough it up with some large grit sandpaper (60-80). By doing this, you not only make the plastic surface less slick (sandpapering it), but you also give a good, irregular surface to bond to and by having the holes the bondo/resin can penetrate to the back of the panel to make the piece more secure and hold up better.

When you read about someone "swiss cheesing" their doors, that's what they're referring to.


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

looks great


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

suzi427 said:


> looks great


 
Thanks Suzi


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## marshdrummer (Mar 17, 2009)

I'm looking to do a MZ3 build...what don't you like about the sound? What would you do differently?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

marshdrummer said:


> I'm looking to do a MZ3 build...what don't you like about the sound? What would you do differently?


Good questions.

First off, some of these things I could address with tuning, but some I can't.

1. There is a lack of realistic top end to my system. The fact that I am running 3" widebanders sans tweeters is certainly contributing to this. I used to play drums (and recorded a couple times- nothing serious) so I know what drums and cymbals are supposed to sounds like. I dont get that good shimmery sound with the attack and decay, I miss that awesome stick sound on a good ride cymbal too.
Despite having my widebanders mounted on-axis, there are still holes and EQing it isn't getting the job done. Just doesn't sound natural to me.

2. My soundstage, while pretty nicely centered and pretty high, lacks width. Its more compact on the left side than the right and depth could be a bit better.

3. I have a very peaky sounding upper midbass region. Im sure I have some nulls and peaks in there to work out, but besides that, I want a more impactful midbass sound. I need to really get more into the doors with some treatments and I have a few ideas in that area. That said, I'll also be switching out some drivers here to experiment as well.

4. Bass in the lowest regions is lacking right now. I need to check my airspace and determine how best to go about getting the sound I want from the sub(s). I have the current driver in too large of a space. I have a few different options to go with here as well. I may try porting the existing enclosure, or moving to two drivers. I also have more power coming my way too.

5. I have some buzzes and rattles here and there that I need to sort out as well. These will always detract from the sound quality and I have to address them.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the DRZ. It is probably the cleanest source I've ever heard in a car and it has great tuning options. One thing it does lack however is a great EQ section. I do have plenty of miniDSP's though that could aid if needed. I'm kind of in between selling and starting over with a P99 or other source, perhaps using a Mosconi 6to8 or PDSP.

I've also got plans to totally change the drivers being used and add some additional 'flare'. More on this below...

Some weaknesses of the Mazda 3:
-Road noise is a bit of an issue in this car. You'll notice this especially in the wheel well areas.
-I'm not a fan of the construction of the inner door skin (plastic). I think it detracts from the ability to get great midbass sound in the doors as its just not as structurally solid as a metal skin. And it makes modification far more difficult.
-Very difficult to get wires into the doors. Especially the drivers side.

Some strengths:
-Large spare tire well with copious amounts of space for a sub(s)
-Fairly deep dash and wider pillars with some space for modifications
-Stock radio is easy to remove and provides enough space for double din


As for what I'm planning to change...
I'm going to remove the dash pillars/pods and try out the B&G neo3pdr and neo10 drivers. The NEO10's will go in the kicks and the neo3's I'll experiment with the placement. They may go in the kicks or I may end up putting them in the pillars or sail panels- depends on where they seem to work the best for this car. I've decided to try the B&G's because I'm a fan of the planar and ribbon sound. I also like the slightly higher sensitivity they bring. Speaking of sensitivity, I'm also going to be trying out Mark's new Intimid8r 8" drivers as well. To shore up the bass region, I plan to build a front sub enclosure to house a TC Sounds EPIC 10". It has very small enclosure requirements (only .41 cu ft for a seald at .71qtc, or .75-1 cuft ported).
For the rear sub, I haven't made a decision yet. I'm going to play with the current sub (TC Sounds EPIC12) in some different enclosure types and volumes first because I believe this can be a great sub. Its not super efficient, but with the power I (wil) have available, it may not be an issue. If I'm not satisfied, I'll be looking for something like a 15" for the spare tire well for efficiency and sensitivity like a w15gti or the like.

Big plans and lots of work for sure...stay tuned.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Whichever choice you make, make sure you at least have some form of PEQ to address peaks centered between 1/3 octave freqs  
A PEQ where you can input the exact frequency is really a great tool 

Kelvin


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## Project_dog (May 25, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> What I do is drill a bunch of small holes in the area where you'll be applying any bondo/glass and also rough it up with some large grit sandpaper (60-80). By doing this, you not only make the plastic surface less slick (sandpapering it), but you also give a good, irregular surface to bond to and by having the holes the bondo/resin can penetrate to the back of the panel to make the piece more secure and hold up better.
> 
> When you read about someone "swiss cheesing" their doors, that's what they're referring to.




Thank you for the info.


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## marshdrummer (Mar 17, 2009)

Thanks for all the explaining! I recently purchased a 3 so I'm trying to get as much info so I can start the planning phase. Where are you going to put the sub up front? That's interesting....

I did notice all the road noise. That is one of my concerns....


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

The front sub will go in the passenger footwell area. As for the road noise, the best we can do is use some sound blocking measures like MLV, and/or use a very quiet set of tires. In fact, I made that one of my qualifications for any tires on this vehicle. Check tirerack.com and use their ratings for sound for the tires in your class. For me it was worth it.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

subwoofery said:


> Whichever choice you make, make sure you at least have some form of PEQ to address peaks centered between 1/3 octave freqs
> A PEQ where you can input the exact frequency is really a great tool
> 
> Kelvin


Will do Kelvin. I have 4 miniDSP units so...flexibility is there :laugh:


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Well...looks like this build is officially kaput. 

I just took posession of a new piece of blank canvas:

2013 Mazdaspeed 3



















Guess a new build thread will be in order soon...


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## Lymen (Aug 9, 2011)

Congrats on the new ride, looking forward to the build log!

Lymen


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That looks fantastic - looking forward to seeing what you do and hopefully hearing it one day.


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## Project_dog (May 25, 2008)

Congrats on the new ride.


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

Congrats I love my 2012. Did you get a tech? How is that new hu. I felt all I needed in mine was a decent sub, so far.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thanks guys. You can bet I'll start a new build log once I get cracking away at it.
Jay- You're always welcome to check out the ride anytime you're in the area bud.

Kelrog- I didn't get the tech package. I figure the money would be wasted on a GPS and upgreded stereo. I didnt need the Xenon HID's even though I want them (I'll do an ebay kit later to save money). They have some nice lightkits at ijdmtoy.com as well. The new HU is actually pretty nice and the Blose setup actually has decent imaging. It just has no guts or impact and like a typical bose system, once you turn it up past elevator music level, it ****s the bed. Featurewise, its quite nice though with integrated bluetooth audio and handsfree calling, voice activated commands, etc. Pretty slick. 
Like in the last generation of Mazda 3, the car has large pillars (by compact standards) and plenty of hatch space. I've got some ideas brewing ...


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

I was hoping you got the tech, so you could tell me how the tom tom navi was. they changed to tom tom in the 2013. 

I love my Xeons, and how they move when I take corners (especially off/on ramps)

I normally have my BT set to full on my Razr Maxx and the stereo set to 35 for in town, and 45 for highway. 

If you aren't using Google Music to stream (with HD settings enabled) you are missing out. 

Again, congrats, and if you happen to make a new build thread, link in here. I'm barely on this site anymore. Much easier to save $ that way.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

kelrog said:


> I was hoping you got the tech, so you could tell me how the tom tom navi was. they changed to tom tom in the 2013.
> 
> I love my Xeons, and how they move when I take corners (especially off/on ramps)
> 
> ...


Thanks!

Here's a link to the NEW build thread for the speed 3: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...y/146064-2013-mazdaspeed-3-a.html#post1850667

Are you on mazdas247 or mazdaspeedforum?


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

captainobvious said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Here's a link to the NEW build thread for the speed 3: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...y/146064-2013-mazdaspeed-3-a.html#post1850667
> 
> Are you on mazdas247 or mazdaspeedforum?



Cool, thanks for the link. Yeah, I'm "kelrog" on both of those as well.


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## eric3514 (Nov 5, 2013)

Hi capitanobvious, I'm about to install my speakers on my Mazda 3 1st gen, how did you manage to pass the speaker wires to the doors? I'm stuck at the moment...


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## kelrog (Apr 11, 2009)

eric3514 said:


> Hi capitanobvious, I'm about to install my speakers on my Mazda 3 1st gen, how did you manage to pass the speaker wires to the doors? I'm stuck at the moment...


This should get you moving in the right direction. How to wire through a door molex.


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