# my build on my 04' chevy monte carlo



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I finily started my build yesterday and today, and hope to finish it tomarow. I have broken it down into 3 stages, as a full system install is a rather massive undertaking to be honest. 

yesterday I bought the chime harness to be able to wire it, i wired and spliced that all up into my harness, and mounted the new deck, but since my deck is a dead head (no output aside from rca's, i kept the stock deck in for now) i also mounted the ground cable to the back seat back buckle, and today I wired up the distribution blocks and mounted the amps, and put the rca's up to the amps and put them under the seat coiled up temporally. I also did a dry mounting of the speakers to make sure they'll all fit, and since I studied my paneling and read up on my car, i was able to remove my door panels as if I'd done it 100 times, and it only took me about 1 min to remove the whole panel and have the speakers out. 

I put them in to check for clerence issues and if i'd have to do any modding...and I do not  i havn't put them in yet, it'll be last. 


tommarow i'm running the main power line, and the rca's down the center console to the amps. than i'll be able to bring the rca's up to the deck and mount it all in.

the sytem i'm putting in 
alpine PDX 1.1000
ALpine PDX 4.150
JBL c608GTI MKii 6 1\2" commponent system
eclipse cd7200 mkii


I'm running this system active, with out the rear speakers, taking them out for porting for sub into cabin. 

for dash mounting in the future I plan to add a custom monte dash kit, but untill than i have a standard pocket mounted in it for now. 

as in the image below will be the dash kit i'm eventually getting. 










now, for some images of my build so far. I don't have that many images, as i didn't have my phone today...can;t find the bugger  i'll get some more tomarow during my build. for now, enjoy these. 
front veiw of the car








side view of the car








the dash with the wire harness and chime box.








my lawn where i threw my entire car interior, looks like a read necks lawn 








this is what i'm working with the engine compartment, very clean engine. my car onloy has 44,000 miles. 









that's all I have for now unfortunatly, but i'll be updating tomarow evening, assuming i don't get rained out 

heres a video of my old build. from when i first installed my eclipse deck into it, i've pretty much kept all the old equipment i had. except i didn't put my cap into this system


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## vinicius costa (Jun 13, 2010)

Hello, I love the rack of HU is very cool, here in Brazil we have not found this wonderful device, parabens.Aguardando new photos


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I'm just about done, still need to run the ground to something up in the engine compartment, and run speaker wires and mount the new speakers, whitch hopefully won't be to much of a pain in the dick :| 

so, as i promised. some pictures. 



































my cars interior sitting in my front lawn...thank god it didnt rain :|








rear hot final termination before closing back seat








where the wires went under the carpet to run to the back seat to the distubation blocks








hot wire termination up in the engine area *pulling 1\0 wire through a 1\
8" hole is no easy task to say the least


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

wire ran through the firewall








amps mounted on rear seat (still not wired for speakers)








pulling rca's >_< this is where i cut my finger








battle wounds


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

final images. 

whelp i did end up having to do some tweaking to the bracket, but not much. just drilled out the hole to fit the fixture my tweeter use and cut out a corner so that bolt on the back of the fixture for it would screw down with out tweaking the whole piece out of shape. 

















I did have to cut some of the door out to so that it would fit the back of the tweeter mount


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

new plans ahoy, i'm working on a deal on a set of CDT HD642's, and dropping some 6x9's up in the rear, probobly some 6x9 coax PPI's i found with external cross over, it'll fill the rear a bit, and i'm going to do A pillar pod mounting up on the dash for the 4" drivers from the HD642's. going to sound pretty good  havn't decided if i want to take it active yet.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

My favorite thing about this install are the pics depicting the fact that the trunk actually gets USED for things other than audio  As in **** for work!

Kudos!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

lol, hey ya gatta pay for all this **** some how  sadly none of that stuffs being used right now, as i'm laid off and i'm going to school next month  so yeah that's gonna suck, enjoying the last of my extra spending money while i got it, because i won't in the coming months


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just got a quote from a local instalation shop around here for A pillar pods, and this is the quote - 
"THE PILLAR PODS WILL MOST LIKELY BE AROUND $350-$400....THERE WILL BE AN INCREDIBLE AMOUNT OF TIME INVESTED IN STAGING AND PLACEMENT BEFORE THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE PODS CAN EVEN BE STARTED. LET US KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.YOUR BEST BET WILL BE TO BRING THE VEHICLE AND THE SPEAKERS OVER SO WE CAN GET TOGETHER AND FORMULATE A PLAN.THANK YOU."

I'm def not going that rought, i'm seeing what they'll quote me on kick panels if that'll be easier for them. i can handle A pillar pods on my own, but kick panels are a bit out of my league, especily with my parking break being on the driver side floor  most likly the quote will be about the same. i'm still working out the deal with


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yep, they quoted me 9 hours for any kick panel or A pillar pod's, whitch is a load since most of that is dry time..they're not standing there while it's all drying lol i mean wtf, do half rates for dry time thats just bs, and than he told me that the 400 is just build hours, than theres cone install time whitch is like another hour...lol, what a joke these guys are. they do good work, but it's a racket. if i didn't know how to do this stuff my self, i'd be plain up the river with out a paddle. lol 


anyhow, i'm closing the deal with my buddy, he needs to RMA one of the cross overs, it woudln't play at +0 DB mode, so he's sending it back so i can have a 100% working set. 

just got an email, my dash kit is finished and he's sending it out, apparently he's a canadian, so it's probobly going to take a week, the new key gasket for my dash is coming, should arrive tuesday, found somebody with a set of A pillar frames so i don't have to mess up my original set, and can just store them.  theres another 50$ on top of everything, the parts for the pods should be free, my cousin has some fiberglass and bondo, i have fabric, and I have MDF for cut outs for the mounting.  

anyhow, here are some pictures of the stuff i'm getting
CDT HD642 kit top veiw








bottom veiw








CDT M6's








4" driver


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## ttocs388 (Jun 25, 2010)

hate to tell ya but that is not a bad price for kicks from a shop. They gotta make a $$$ too!

Please tell me the boxes in the back window are mounted down?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

no it really is, you can still make money if you charge half rates during set times on projects, long as theres flow and if theres no enoughf low you sceduel around a time where there will be flow, you shouldnt make money for doing less work, its just not how the money works and how people pay for things. 


by the boxes you mean the distributor blocks? yes, the ground block and fuse block are mounted, i put something under the hot fuse block and then mounted it under the block. or do you mean my tolls?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

ttocs388 said:


> hate to tell ya but that is not a bad price for kicks from a shop. They gotta make a $$$ too!


x2 on that one... anyone that has done fiberglass knows that it DOES take hours to do things right, and not just drying time. We always balk at the price that other shops charge, simply because when we do it, it's free. But if someone came to me and asked me to do some work like that, i wouldn't think twice before asking for at least a few hundred dollars.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I guess i'm just not a greedy person, to me thats absurd. but your welcome to your opinion.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

whelp, sitll debating on what to do with that 4" driver, i would really like to have kick panels, but pillar pods seem easier to make to me :\ i dont really have any ideas on kick panels. if anyone has any ideas let me know. 


ordered another set of parts, ordered a 220 amp alternator for my car, the 12" sub i wanted, JBL W12GTI MKII, ordered a pre made box tuned to 33hz, ported. 30"x13.6"x16" double layered 1\2 MDF. 


what kind of battery should i get? i really don't know anything about them, i think i need something in the 800 ah range, but im not sure. i have about 1800 watt rms running through my system, and as it stands its causing some massive drains on my system and is causing the car to quite literly stop in the middle of the road XD haha, bit okward.


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Nice I am running the same mids.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just got the 6x9' cadence mid woofers, not sure if their 100% staying in the project but i figuired i'd give it a go see how they do. they showed up super early. 









gigantic monsters they are too  double magnets lol i could barley even hold my arm steady to take that picture.


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## internationlriders (Nov 7, 2009)

eviling said:


> gigantic monsters they are too  double magnets lol i could barley even hold my arm steady to take that picture.


LOL! Those 6x9's are so beefy you almost don't need a sub!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

there mid woofers, not woofers. they have a frequency range of something like 40hz-8k hz, so they'll pick up alotta mids.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the terminals 








got the sub








got the box









lets do this!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sub installed 









dash kit should be coming this week. bigaudiofanatic will be helping me with my A pillar pods, that is scheduled for the 13th of aug, and should be a fun install  the sub sounds simply awsome. got a couple videos but none of them really sounded to hot, but rest assure, this sub is simply AMAZING. 

also not the 500' of 14\2 speaker wire in the trunk  so worth buying in bulk, i use it so often.


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## pat_smith1969 (Feb 17, 2010)

dude...
I just got a quote from three places to do my pillars (not pods but the full fg into the pillars).

The first place was $200 but I didn't trust their work.
The second place was $700 - $900 just for the pillars, they are the most reputable of the places I went, but I suspect they gave me a "brings his own gear" sur-charge. They made faces when I said I already had my gear.

The last place wanted $300 or so, they also do good work but seemed less stressed when I told them I had done the wiring and had the gear already.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

300 isn't bad. I'm paying under 200 for mine but I'm helping him. 30 for the pods and staging isn't bad. But I'd have to really trust them to do the staging


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Got some work done, got the new dash kit, had to tinker with a few things, got a new key gasket for around my ignition, that was broke on the origonal install, along with the bracket for the 4 way button for my 4 ways, i glued that down.

mounting the cage onto the dash kit 









heres the new gasket installed









heres the bracket being blued down









the glue









the main bracket installed









Deck wired up 









Behind the dash kit showing the mess of wires









Deck tested and working









checking if the light works









Light Off









in the end the only realy modding i needed to do was grind down the face plate edges of the hole a little bit, had to take a file to that, and jsut used a marker to color it so you wouldn't see the silver of the aluminum.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

light on with dash installed









outside view of dash.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Check out diehard platinum batteries at sears. You won't find any battery that does 800 ah... You are probably thinking of CCA's which is more reasonable. The biggest size they have is the group 65 which has 940 CCA's. It should do you well.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i think the biggest i can fit is about a group 34 or 36, i forget. but they do around 750 cca's and are suposedly under rated, but idk i was looking at some other more car audio specific batteries and i found this little guy 

SHURiKEN SK-BT80 (skbt80) - Batteries and Battery Isolators - Sonic Electronix

which i think i could shoe horn into the ***** lol it says 1900 amps...now idk if thats CCA's or what.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

whelp i went with the diehard because i didnt feel like spending 50$ to ship a battery :| I got the largest size they had that would fit, was a 880 CCA, the stock batery was about 500 i think, so I should def be in the good if my 500 was just barley keeping ahead.  



















finily got to use that fused battery terminal. it was kind of a pain to get on, i basicly just tighten it all the way and taped it on and it seems to have a pretty decnet grip. you can also see i ran another line from my alt, a 4 gauge to my batterys terminal to help it charge  the only thing i need to do still is run a chasey ground to the battery terminal thats larger than the 6 gauge thats running to, probably a 2 gauge or 1\0.


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## ttocs388 (Jun 25, 2010)

taped your battery terminal on? tape is an insulator not a connector........

also if you want to keep that pg terminal shiney(I have the same one) make sure you wipe your sweat or finger prints off of it as it will corrode the shiney finish after time.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i BEAT it on lol fail spelling? it was tapped on, not taped. and i know this seems odd, but I pulled on that son of a ***** and it didn't bodge unless i lossened one of the lugs on it. 



why should i care if it's shiny? its a battery terminal  lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

finily gonna do a couple bigger things ive been wanting to do for awhile now. going to be trying out these 6x9 cadences in the rear deck, gonna finily sound dampening my door panels, and a couple other things with these mat i have. tweak the tunings a bit and see what we can do today, always fun  

anyways, heres a bench i did with 1 of the cadences on my computers sound system, the youtube transfer screwed up the sound quality a bit, so they sound pretty harsh, but they are pretty nice and handle a much broader range than i ever expected them to, they sound better than my 3" satlites on my sound system. 
about 40 seconds in i turn the sub on, in case your wondering what the **** that was lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

not really car audio, but this is an upgrade i just did to my headlights. for the rubber gaskets in case anybody is wondering, i cut a slit and pulled the wires through and i'm going to silacone it than to seal it up from watter, also let it be noted, the DDM 9005 is a horrible fit, and took me 15 mins + just to screw the bulb in because the gasket was oversized, plus the poor wiring connector for the female terminal that hooks into the stock harness, it fited very poorley and i had to mod every single one to fit my harness. all in all, took me about an hour and a half. mostly because i've never even touched a lightbulb, let alone a HID kit. but it was all plug and play. was a real perk that i could remove the headlight with almost no effort by pulling those two peices of plastic up and sliding it out. the whole unit came right out, very clean, very nice. 

high beam balast are tied to the bumper, right in front of the rad. 








right side low beam ballast mounting. was a ***** to mount, i still don't like where it's mounted but the intake is their and everything is sealed from the engine pay so really had nowhere to go with it, i wanted to mount it down by the fogts but didn't feel like tearing off the panels. 








left side low ballast mounting








highbeams








lowbeams


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

lets talk gear for a minute, first off, some things i'm looking to do. 

- full feature deck
- possibly upgrade speakers
- sound processing
- new sub enclousure
- amp rack

2 of those i can do for under 100$, the rack and the enclosure. don't really need to go over them to much, the basic plan is to mount the rack right behind the seat like they are nice, but flip them over and recess them into a box, i'll finish the rear of the rack too since it'll be vistaible from the trunk, and **** will be flying around, so it'll look like this 


and for the sub enclousre i'm going to glass it into the left wall of the trunk, like so, but obviously it'll be much larger since i'll need 2.25sh to get to the right size for a ported box, which i still want to stay ported. 

moving on, full featured deck and processing, first of and for most, of course ms-8, just pure win, i'll grab one on ebay for 550$sh or here maybe, probobly ebay so i can buy a faretrade warrenty for it, and for a deck going with a pioneer avic z120bt








and ms- 8 









and i'll throw a back up cam just because i can, found this one, license plate mounted, with night vision and pivit. 
Absolute CAM2000CCD Black License Plate with Waterproof CCD Camera









finily, we cover the speaker upgrade, i'm thining of stepping up to the top teir JBL, the 660 gti's, either a set of those or i was also thinking of a set of rainbows that i really am tempted to, but they are much more expensive and i doubt i'll find a deal like i could with the jbl's. 
Rainbow CS 275.27 Power - Power 6.9" 2-Way Component System [Rain-CS275.27Power] - $1,294.95 : Speed & Sound Electronics Corp.









really like this set, for one, all in one cross over is nice, could build that into my rack real nice. 
JBL 660GTi - 6-3/4" Component Systems - Sonic Electronix


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

shin new grill for my sub  


















I know this suonds pretty ghetto, but that's becuase it's taken on my phone, trust me, it sounds awesome  and even better i the cabin  









no matter what i do i cant get these damn videos, yet i posted one a couple posts up that worked fine, am i using the wrong link? their are 2 differnet ones that i know of. but neither work


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright! brain storm! ideas for control unit pod for ms-8



















feedback from fellow ms-8 members would be nice  i'm ordering mine tonight  so i'm trying to work out the logistics of how i can do this.


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

Curious why you put HID's in your high beams? Also, what color temp are those - they look a bit on the bluish side.

As far as mounting the MS-8 display, not sure if you have an overhead console, but if so maybe up there (would fit good into a flip-down sunglass holder). Also, if the small door between your shifter and water bottle slides in and out it may be possible to conceal it in there? Also inside the glovebox or center console storage bin is an option.

Do you want it out in the open so that you can see it and control the MS-8 while you are driving? I would look for a way to integrate it a bit better.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

you sure are a preceptive one, indeed they are flushed, their 8k's but since they're 55 watts, they hyrbrid between 6k and 8k, since the extra power flushes them out  and i put them in my highs because im a ****ing moron  

and yes i would like to see it and yes that peice does come out, i would like to have it visible though. I like the center console in in front of the shifter because that whole peice comes off the top of my console with 1 screw (granted that screw is behind where i plan to put it) and it would be easy to glass it, and replace it should i ever sell the car and want to keep the ms-8  I plan on glassing it into these spots, not just mounting it btw  gonna make a wood frame, use some straws, and i was thinking maybe i could get a form i want with some some clay and maybe fire it so the resin won't eat it. who knows. something though!


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## GSlider (Jun 11, 2009)

Nice build. Question though, why did you change out that wonderful Pioneer h/u for the Eclipse? Lack of features maybe on Pioneer's end?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

oh no that pioneer deck would wtf pwn this 7200, that wasn't mine, if you read it, i said it was just a demo picture the guy who made my dash kit sent me. nice deck though  it completely out features the 7200.


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

eviling said:


> you sure are a preceptive one, indeed they are flushed, their 8k's but since they're 55 watts, they hyrbrid between 6k and 8k, since the extra power flushes them out


Are you using a relay to the battery with those? I have heard isolated stories of issues with 55w kits and factory wires melting.

FWIW, I have a kit in my car. 35w, 4300k. Nice white light, not a hint of blue. Around here you would get a ticket for the 8k's.



eviling said:


> oh no that pioneer deck would wtf pwn this 7200, that wasn't mine, if you read it, i said it was just a demo picture the guy who made my dash kit sent me. nice deck though it completely out features the 7200.


Not so sure I agree there (and I own the Pioneer deck). The Eclispe is a fine HU and from a SQ perspective probably has more features than the Pioneer.


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## GSlider (Jun 11, 2009)

eviling said:


> oh no that pioneer deck would wtf pwn this 7200, that wasn't mine, if you read it, i said it was just a demo picture the guy who made my dash kit sent me. nice deck though  it completely out features the 7200.



Hmmm.... Must've missed that part. I'm partial to the older Eclipse's myself, that's why I was curious.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I just put in my order for my MS-8  


and yeah, i think 6k's are legal here, but i don't relly think they look blue :\ hopfuly the cops will agree ive yet to pass one since i had em lol 


and hey if you like the eclipse decks, i'm going to be jumping out of it soon to a full featured deck since i have my ms-8 coming


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ya know sometimes i have way to much time on my hands  so ive been searching around, and watching videos and i know some people its imposible to capture a stage preseence of a sound system in a video but i feel you can get a pretty good idea anyhoooo, i say this because i found this video of some hertz hsf 6.5's and mmm mmmm they sound like sex. 

YouTube - Kit HSK 165 tocando com sub off

now this full body sound, this is what i'm looking for something that envelopes you this is what i would like to achieve. my 608's are great, but they just don't create that warmth. you guys know what i'm talking about or am i just jabbering out of lack of sleep?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

oh hey, look what i found on my porch today. 



































*just to give you an idea of size, i put a cd sleeve next to the control unit and the main unit it's self to show you.*








*more size comparason, you really can never tell how small this unit is, but it really is small. *


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

oh whats this...looks like an ms-8 in my trunk :O tehe, the results are very good, the system sitll needs gobs of tweaking but when i get this tweaked in and sounding good I think i will be very happy, i havn't even tried going active yet. still need to pick up another amp :\


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## SQ Monte (Sep 12, 2009)

eviling said:


> oh no that pioneer deck would wtf pwn this 7200, that wasn't mine, if you read it, i said it was just a demo picture the guy who made my dash kit sent me. nice deck though  it completely out features the 7200.


I knew I was your idol!

Nobody sent you the picture of my deck (the Pioneer one in your first post), you stole it from my build log over on MCF and not only didn't you ask my permission to do so, you didn't give me credit and you flat out lied about it by saying the guy who made your dash kit sent it to you. HUMount.com has their own gallery of pictures to show off their product and their pictures aren't hosted on photobucket and surely not in my account at photobucket, so stop the bs and take my pictures down and don't use them anymore. The pictures of the amp rack without and with the amps in place are mine too....or did the guy who made your dash kit send you those too? 
Go ahead and rehost the pictures and pretend you don't know where they came from, I already have screenshots of where they're currently hosted (my photobucket account) so take my pictures down and stop using them without my permission.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

SQ Monte said:


> I knew I was your idol!
> 
> Nobody sent you the picture of my deck (the Pioneer one in your first post), you stole it from my build log over on MCF and not only didn't you ask my permission to do so, you didn't give me credit and you flat out lied about it by saying the guy who made your dash kit sent it to you. HUMount.com has their own gallery of pictures to show off their product and their pictures aren't hosted on photobucket and surely not in my account at photobucket, so stop the bs and take my pictures down and don't use them anymore. The pictures of the amp rack without and with the amps in place are mine too....or did the guy who made your dash kit send you those too?
> Go ahead and rehost the pictures and pretend you don't know where they came from, I already have screenshots of where they're currently hosted (my photobucket account) so take my pictures down and stop using them without my permission.


wow dude, you need to take a seriouse chillpill, i had no idea, i had an entire folder of pictures, and i had contacted the guy who made the kits, and he did send me pictures, i assumed it was one of them since it was in my folder and wasn't of my car. my world most defiantly does no revolve around you champ. weren't you banned from MCF.com?


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

Just finish your build already then you can post your own pictures! :lol:


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## SQ Monte (Sep 12, 2009)

eviling said:


> wow dude, you need to take a seriouse chillpill, i had no idea, i had an entire folder of pictures, and i had contacted the guy who made the kits, and he did send me pictures, i assumed it was one of them since it was in my folder and wasn't of my car. my world most defiantly does no revolve around you champ. weren't you banned from MCF.com?


You obviously got the message hours ago and found the time to post but yet my pictures remain posted. On to step 2


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

really like the look of the radio trim. whoever made it, owns the rights, whatever it may be, great job.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Nice solid build man! I've always like the look of those cars (even though most people seem to think I'm crazy).

And going back in time to what the shop said...""THE PILLAR PODS WILL MOST LIKELY BE AROUND $350-$400....THERE WILL BE AN INCREDIBLE AMOUNT OF TIME INVESTED IN STAGING AND PLACEMENT BEFORE THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE PODS CAN EVEN BE STARTED. LET US KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.YOUR BEST BET WILL BE TO BRING THE VEHICLE AND THE SPEAKERS OVER SO WE CAN GET TOGETHER AND FORMULATE A PLAN.THANK YOU.""..

I just want to say that I would never trust a shop who sends me emails in all caps...or at least it would make me very wary. Wtf is that lol?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

SQ Monte said:


> You obviously got the message hours ago and found the time to post but yet my pictures remain posted. On to step 2


because people don't have jobs? I was leavingf or work when i made the post because i felt you would freak out and flame my thread even more..which you sitll managed to do, and in since your flamed my build log with your blathering and bitching i shall leave it. cry to an admin, i'm sure they'll care even less than i do. it's a wonder you got banned from mcf.com 


oh, and though i dont remember if he did use all caps, it most likley was me just doing it to emphasis the quote. XD sorry lol, their a lagit shop, just not cheap. and their a bit big so idk if id trust their work on some higher end gear :\ i dont think they'd take the time to properly tweak the placement like a smaller shop would do.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Wow. Some people need to get their priorities straight and calm down about trivial matters.


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## SQ Monte (Sep 12, 2009)

eviling said:


> because people don't have jobs? I was leavingf or work when i made the post because i felt you would freak out and flame my thread even more..which you sitll managed to do, and in since your flamed my build log with your blathering and bitching i shall leave it. cry to an admin, i'm sure they'll care even less than i do. it's a wonder you got banned from mcf.com


So you posted those pictures of my install from pics you had saved on your computer? Really? So when you save a picture to your computer and then post it on the net it automatically links right to my photobucket account, right? Can't be a man and admit the obvious huh? Well you keep telling your lies and idolizing my install, maybe one day....pssssh, who am I kidding?

As for being banned from MCF










Pot, kettle, black :laugh:

Enjoy the pics!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

how about we let the fighting over something dumb go. be honored he is basing his build off your dash instead of getting angry about it. everyone keep up the great work and help each other rather than complain


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## Ban Hammer (Jun 26, 2010)

eviling said:


> and yeah, i think 6k's are legal here, but i don't relly think they look blue :\ hopfuly the cops will agree ive yet to pass one since i had em lol


*The blue tint of your HID's may get you in trouble depending on the area you live and how the cops are. I have 12K HID's in projector housings and I've only had one cop give me any problems about them.(North Las Vegas, not Metro)

Also,

HID's are technically only legal if they're OEM equipment. But normally as long as they're fitted in projector headlamp assemblies you won't catch any problems with the police because the beam cutoff on projectors is much more defined, the glass/plastic lens is CLEAR and as long as they're aimed correctly, will not blind oncoming traffic.

However,

Putting aftermarket HID's in halogen headlamp assemblies(as yours are) is illegal as because the fluted lens scatters the light, blinding oncoming drivers.

There are most probably aftermarket projector headlamp assemblies for your model car. There are also retrofit kits you can buy, to make your projectors as close to OEM-like as possible. Maybe you might want to look into that so you don't end up with any tickets. Again, I suppose it depends on the cops in your area. *


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

MTopper said:


> how about we let the fighting over something dumb go. be honored he is basing his build off your dash instead of getting angry about it. everyone keep up the great work and help each other rather than complain


thank you. 



Ban Hammer said:


> *The blue tint of your HID's may get you in trouble depending on the area you live and how the cops are. I have 12K HID's in projector housings and I've only had one cop give me any problems about them.(North Las Vegas, not Metro)
> 
> Also,
> 
> ...


Yeah, i have done allot research about it since i got em, theirs really not much i can do OEM, sicne the montes aren't made anymore  their are no projectors for this particular monte, i believe what was it, 6th gen? or 5th, i forget, but the only one equiped with projectors or even the option was the 7th gen, which is the 2006-2007 montes. 

i did look into retrofitting, it's kind of reallllly a pain in the ass, not to mention not cheap and i really don't wanna drop 200$ into my head lights lol, at least right now. maybe in the future. but thanks for the tips  oh, and the cops around my area don't seem to care, i've passed by dozens and none of them even really flinched an eye, to be honest it's very common around here. because of the area, since it has allota dear and junk running around. keeps the roads safer than forcing us to run around with dingy yellow headlights


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

As long as they aren't super blue or crazy bright, cops in my area don't care


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## Vestax (Aug 16, 2005)

eviling said:


> because people don't have jobs? I was leavingf or work when i made the post because i felt you would freak out and flame my thread even more..which you sitll managed to do, and in since your flamed my build log with your blathering and bitching i shall leave it. cry to an admin, i'm sure they'll care even less than i do. it's a wonder you got banned from mcf.com
> 
> 
> oh, and though i dont remember if he did use all caps, it most likley was me just doing it to emphasis the quote. XD sorry lol, their a lagit shop, just not cheap. and their a bit big so idk if id trust their work on some higher end gear :\ i dont think they'd take the time to properly tweak the placement like a smaller shop would do.


Let it go, and please do not post pictures of other people's install without their consent, especially if they have an objection to it. We've had issues with this in the past. Anymore postings regarding this, I will close the thread and you will have to create a new build log. 

Thanks.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

epic news...i just found out my tax return for the year is 3200$, so thinks look promising that i'll be getting some toys  should be able to do everyhting i wanna do with my car, and than some.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i too am waiting on mine. i won't get that much but i'll be able to upgrade my alternator so... i'm waiting on your build big guy.


btw, how did you like those cdt speakers?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

MTopper said:


> i too am waiting on mine. i won't get that much but i'll be able to upgrade my alternator so... i'm waiting on your build big guy.
> 
> 
> btw, how did you like those cdt speakers?


i ended up never getting em because i didnt hav the money, shame. it was a good deal  but i'm going with hybrid speakers now. going with some stage 4 i think or stage 3, the L1, with the L4 or L3. and MAYBE some L6's or L8's. origonaly i wasn't going to upgrade the mids and use the 608gti mids, but since i have extra money coming i might go with em. but thats all in the air. if sombody else has some speakers they might wanna recommend me  i'm still on the fence on what ti get, but I've heard good things about hybrid. :surprised:


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright, well i mentioned the money before. well i have lots of money coming to take this baby full bore. i have plans, very good plans  with very nice speakers  

going with hybrid. (edit)
L1 pro's
L6 woofers
L3 center

going to be adding a second alpine PDX 4.150 amp for the extra channels i need. going to be attempting the pods my self, i had thoughts of having it done by a shop, but really..i just don't think i could ever be happy with that. plus, i have had thoughts of maybe once i get this baby up and running, of taking it to a comp  I might even clean up  

also, plans for glassing in a sub box, and building a false floor for my trunk, and thoughts of removing even my spare tire for some extra room, not sure yet :\ really kinda allot to try and tackle all at once to be honest. 


oh also, cable upgrades, going tech flex this puppy up.  clean some things up, plus it'll look better. 











oh did i forget to mention the pioneer avic z130bt coming out in march that i'll be waiting to install?  the 7200 will be up for grabs and im sure it'll go quick considering i'll probobly do a pretty fair price on it.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright update time. sorry no fabrication yet  

first, i ordered the new amp to take it active, also found a set of L4's that i'ma run, also picking up a L4 for a center. going to see what i can do with this on top of the 608's, see how it sounds, if i dont like it i'll pick up some L6's or something. but trying to keep this as practical as possible. 

holding off on the navi unit for a couple more weeks, wanna see what PPI's unit does. i'm thinking about the P-771NX, or maybe even the Sony XNV-770BT. we'll see. not sure ont he price range of the PPI's 771, but hopfully its pretty commutatively priced. their high end 3 way's were pretty nicly priced, so i'm hoping they continue this great pricing. we'll see, i havnt found a release on the 771, but the Sony XNV-770BT is already out, and is pretty reasonible compared ot the 920 or the 930.

also, ordered that sheething stuff i linked above, some distro blocks so i can mount the new amp.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just ordered the center, and I went with he L6's after all, really wish i could go with the l8's but i just don't feel it was the best fit for what i wanna do, for the stageing they would of been perfect but i just coudln't bring my self to make that jump, plus even a used set was 200$ more still considering going with the origonal plans and picking up the L1 pros, that depends if i can find a set used, I' had more money left over than it thought i would when i was done with my purchases. i doubt i'll go 3 way, i think i'll be more than happy with the L4.


got the quote on the alarm repair i need, hes pretty much reinstalling it  gonna run me 200$ but thats not bad considering its a complete install. also talked to him about a center, they want to swayed it instead of painting it...and he wont use spray paint or any canned paint, dont want swayed finish on my vynal dash >_< so idk what im going to do now, instead i'll have him do the pillar pods, i was gonan do em, but id have to wait, and i'd end up ****ing up anyways so ima just have him do em.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

the first pieces just came in, got the woofers, some hybrid L6's and a L4, that i'll run as the center. also got the distro blocks for the amps, i just picked up some cheapys, like 8$ blocks, but they do the trick


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

was installing the some of the techflex under my hood today, and tinkering with some wires, i had an accident


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

you're supposed to turn the engine off first ...


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

eviling said:


> was installing the some of the techflex under my hood today, and tinkering with some wires, i had an accident



I HATE when that happens


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, its one of the nastery wounds ive had while working on my system.  what happened was the grounding bolt fell in the dirt pan under the engine, and i had to reach through my pollys and belts, to think a 3$ grappling tool would of saved all this pain. on top of the brush burns, the engine was still warmer than it thought so i also burned my arm  sigh i gotta start doing these projects more prepared.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

woot, the amp came in today, thanks to our local member dtm337, who sold me this amp. also picked up the distro blocks, i have a fuse unit because i'm using ground blocks, and i'd rather not have any melting wires should anything become over drawn. cheapo way out


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright guys, its been a longggggg day of some back breaking work, ive pretty much rewired my entire setup. as you'll find out from the pictures to come, i have lots of extra length in all my cables, this is because i plan to build a false floor in the future, so i'll need the extra lengths. anyways, time for the show. hope you enjoy the pictures as much as i enjoy listening to it. 

this is how things were when i started. ive probobly posted this somewhere in here, but just to recap, this is what we started with. 









and...yes, this is the mess i was working with I pretty much rewired the whole thing, i added new distro blocks, whcih i'm sitll in the middle of in this picture. i think the hot distro block is mounted in this picture. 









heres all the distro blocks wired up, with some wires "neatend" up to try and keep things organized. i repeat TRY. 









the gear to go in 









amps rewired back up. 








MS-8 reinstalled (on the other panel as you can see, made running power lines easier for me.)









a view of the wires with everything terminated. 









tuning the gains









the finished look with everything tucked away.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

programming, i took it active, so i coudln't really remember what was what, so i wrote it down :laugh:

















heres the work i did yesterday, where the "accident" happend as you cna see, i havnt tech flexed the main run to the firewall, i didnt have any zipties, so i ordered some along with the RIGHT size shrink wrap, i thought 1\2" ment it want to half inch 








just another picture of the engine bay


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got another peice of the puzzel today, got the HAT L4's, completing all fo the HAT gear i'm dropping in, and ive decided to add a tweter just for the very very top end, some SB SB29RDCN









and a picture of the family


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Change to Hybrid? Why the change? Couldn't you just add the L4 to your current C608Gti? 

Kelvin


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

subwoofery said:


> Change to Hybrid? Why the change? Couldn't you just add the L4 to your current C608Gti?
> 
> Kelvin


I thought of doing that, but i figuired i might as well dive in all the way. i have nooooooo idea how these L4's are going to be mounted though :| the centere, no biggy plenty of space int he middle of a dash, the driver side A pillar is pretty tight though, going to be tough to get it int heir with out obstructing to much. perhaps i'll think about doing kick panels. we'll see. 

got out their today, tightyed some wires up, ran new RCA's to the deck, ran the center speaker wire, and the other speaker wire. 









and heres the L4 up in the corner, pretty tight squeeze :\ plus i have to get those SB tweets up their too, going to be a pretty large chunk of space taken up.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the date scheduled, going to be the 10th when i have these pods done. i'm thinking about just having the mids put in the door though, and remounting the tweets and **** down in the bottom in the stock position. idk if i have the room in the door though, these mids are pretty deep. perhaps some feedback from the fans would be nice, i know you guys check in on this. some feedback and stuff would be nice ^_^ this is where iw as thinking of putting them, good spot i think, but depth is the question, im sure he can cut metal but only so much you can do with that :\


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## nicholasarmwood (Dec 29, 2010)

Shake it up!!!!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

...sound advice.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i got board, so i build the volume tester for when i do my sub, its 1.1 CF, going to be out of the corner of my trunk like discussed. just took a box that would be roghly 1cf, added sides and such, and taped on a bottom and top and blam, one box exactly 1.1 cf, and ive been saving penuts and boxes just for this part of the project, figuired id get rid of the excess i had by building it and using the penuts i had, took allot more penuts than it hough it would to do 1.1 cf O_O jeeze.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

FINILY finished all the work under my hood, i should of just done all this work when i did the install but im a gluten for punishment, finished my big 3, done all with 1\0 now. i checked the resistance of the grounding through the engine brackets, and their painted so thick their is almost no current going through them like i had though  but fear now, problem fixed. also finily got some zip ties in one of my orders, along with the ground bat block so i mounted that, wraped the main power line in tech flex, and than on top of that some of that plastic stuff around it along the bottom as extra protection. 



















and everything done and tightened back up










i dont really like the grounding to the chasy but i didnt find anywhere else to put it at the time i might move that one, its the one mounted to the engine mount by the bumper.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

looky what i found when i got home this morning  










containing 




























these things are allot smaller than i remembered but man do they sound amazing. smaller is better anyways. but i had forgotten how small they were. these might be a new version perhaps i heard they were having issues with the dimple in the heat, i know it was fixed i dont know if it was before or after i got my old set. god knows why i even sold them babys ;( they are so nice.

pretty soon we should be seeing some pictures of some real fab work. going to be building my woofer baffle next week or maybe this weekend, depending on the weather.


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## mine4118 (Dec 31, 2010)

Nice job on the monte carlo badging on the dash...


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sigh looks like i'm doing the work my self after all. apparently my shop did some "research" and decided the "quality" i asked for was under quoted and they wanted well over 700$ just for A pillars and the center. granted that center is a massive pain in the ass and i'm not even sure if i'll be able to do it on my own :\ but i'm sure i'll figuire something out on these pillars. i'll just have to pick up more fiberglass materials and wait for the weather.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright, ive stated compiling a list of things for my work, starting looking at how much this will cost me, i'm also picking up some sound deadening foam and some vinyl. 


Lightweight Vinyl Sound Damping Sheet 27" x 40"



Acoustic Damping Foam

just to show a few things im looking at, the cheap steff is for my rear deck. i might just go with the cheaper stuff all around or even at all, idk new to this deadening stuff, i already have some fat mat to install, but i was going to add the foam for some extra 
deadening. 

also picking up some vinyl since that seems to be the ideal way to finish my glassing instead of paint. 
Vinyl Speaker Cabinet Covering Black Bronco Yard 54" Wide

oh, and i've decided on the deck i'm getting i think. i'm going to get the pioneer avic x930. 

anyways, i'm really only posting this more for my self if you all havnt noticed i just like to chrnical what im thinking and doing to compare and contrast and also get feed back, but havnt been getitng much feedback, sure wish you guys would show some interest in my project


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well, had a couple extra hours today so i finished 100% the engine bay with the proper size shrink wrap i recieved today in a package, and worked on the rings for my mid ranges and tweets, this is a prototype ring, i might redo it with smaller rings, i'm trying to keep things as stream line as possible. 

cardboard template








finished cutting template

























i' havnt even tried any placment. thuresday i'll have time to make the 2nd ring, and center ring, and i'll work on the baffles and do some placment testing inside the car  getting so close!

oh and i got the money for my deck now, i'll be ordering it soon as it comes out, the pioner avic-x930bt


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

mine4118 said:


> Nice job on the monte carlo badging on the dash...


comes like that stock. i have an 02.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> got the date scheduled, going to be the 10th when i have these pods done. i'm thinking about just having the mids put in the door though, and remounting the tweets and **** down in the bottom in the stock position. idk if i have the room in the door though, these mids are pretty deep. perhaps some feedback from the fans would be nice, i know you guys check in on this. some feedback and stuff would be nice ^_^ this is where iw as thinking of putting them, good spot i think, but depth is the question, im sure he can cut metal but only so much you can do with that :\


one of my first thoughts was a speaker right there, but since our doors weigh a million pounds, i always put my elbow there when the door swings closed after you open it..


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

it doesnt come with that stock. i bought that bracket from a gentleman who makes them for chevys, he resides in Canada if i recall took weeks to get.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> it doesnt come with that stock. i bought that bracket from a gentleman who makes them for chevys, he resides in Canada if i recall took weeks to get.


doh. he meant the stereo mounting kit. i assumed he literally meant dash.

yeah humount dot com right?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> doh. he meant the stereo mounting kit. i assumed he literally meant dash.
> 
> yeah humount dot com right?


yep 


im so excited that i finely am starting these brackets. i'm removing all of the speakers thuresday because ive already sold them al, so my hands are forced to start working on this and get some drivers in this weekend or i'll end up with no stereo


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

had an hour today to work on finalziing the cuts, i made another ruft draft that was supposed to be one of the finished rings, than i cut another 2, which i'm hoping will come out ot be the final cuts. it was pretty darn cold out their  damn winter. anyways, just about all i got done was cutting the rings, and sanding them to match sizes, their about 90% their on the shape wise, only 70% on their on the final edges, id didnt cut the edges yet or anything. but it got dark  



















you can see the two trial rings to the right.  going to get them cut out, taped and screws tomorow, and hopefully get some placment testing done than. i did take a listen to the tweets and they appear to sound better to be aimed away from the user so i might cut these plates and twise them a bit to get a more desired sound, it depends thought might not be needed with the high ranges their playing. we'll see.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

that was wayyyy to large, i went down to the exact size of the speaker baffel edge, and cut the hole in today, i'm really making slow progress but with the weather this is about all i can do, gives me plenty of time to perfect the mounts though at least ^_^ i got my "loaned" out dremel tools from my cousin, got a corldess dremel and a powered one for the larger jobs. the cordless one is good because its easier to control, and now that i have this, i can get my edges tigher, and finily get these to be exactly the same. was taking days of sanding with a palm sander lol


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> that was wayyyy to large, i went down to the exact size of the speaker baffel edge, and cut the hole in today, i'm really making slow progress but with the weather this is about all i can do, gives me plenty of time to perfect the mounts though at least ^_^ i got my "loaned" out dremel tools from my cousin, got a corldess dremel and a powered one for the larger jobs. the cordless one is good because its easier to control, and now that i have this, i can get my edges tigher, and finily get these to be exactly the same. was taking days of sanding with a palm sander lol


i made two baffles last night for the front doors on my 02 monte out of 3/4" mdf. i used a dremel with a router bit on the first one, then promptly swore to never use a dremel as a router again, then used my jigsaw. looks great though, exact shape of the original speakers and now my 6.5"s fit. i used a #8-32 x 1/2" machine screw to screw in my tweeters just like the stock ones mounted.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

very nice, i'm building my door speaker baffles today, was quite an under taking to do it right, i dont know what you did but i'm building it to spec of the door, angles and everything. sadly it was not warm enough to get many layers on this stuff, BUT i do have about 80% of the groudn work layed out, just need to build up some layers of fiberglass. i might bondo it just for some extra strength than, nothing to fancy, just a quick coat of bondo, and a sand down. probobly going to do about 3-4 layers of glass, don't want any resonence in the baffel, to thin i imagine it would be able to vibrate at the same speeds as the sound waves, def not good. anyhoo, picture time  enjoy, i took many. 

speaker ring









the old, the new  in the image before you lay on the rigth side - Hybrid L6, L4, and a SB SB29RDCN









the baffle









you can see we have a problem here...









not to worry we have plenty of wood! 


















setting up position of the ring


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

and now THE FIBERGLASSING :d 


















yep thats about all i have done, i'm letitng it dry as we speak, had some down time so i started organizing some pictures. gonna try and get another layer on before the end of the day.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

lookin good. i didnt make a new bracket like you are, i just made a baffle in the shape of the stock speaker. my replacement 6.5 sit like that too.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

oh, you didnt raise it, you just put it all in the first layer of MDF, you didnt use 2 like me, see with the 2nd layer, i needed to angle it because of how the panel orients it, i like it that way anyways, give a more directed sound instead of just shooting it out sideways. 


right now i'm having trouble isolating where all my trouble spots are for vibrations, i'm going to be deadening it, and seeing in how the factory attempted to deaden some things already that helps, but i sitll need to do the floorboard, espeicly around the area your feet go, so much noise comes through that area.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> oh, you didnt raise it, you just put it all in the first layer of MDF, you didnt use 2 like me, see with the 2nd layer, i needed to angle it because of how the panel orients it, i like it that way anyways, give a more directed sound instead of just shooting it out sideways.
> 
> 
> right now i'm having trouble isolating where all my trouble spots are for vibrations, i'm going to be deadening it, and seeing in how the factory attempted to deaden some things already that helps, but i sitll need to do the floorboard, espeicly around the area your feet go, so much noise comes through that area.


yeah, im not anywhere near the setup that i want, so im using cheap components right now. so i cut out a 3/4" baffle in the shape of the oem speaker, routed a mounting hole in it, then screwed the baffle onto the factory bracket, then mounted the speaker on to it, then i used a #8-32 x 1/2" machine screw to mount my tweeter in the oem spot, then put the bracket back into the door.

when i finally decide on what i want for my front stage, ill put a 6.5" - 10" midbass in the factory spot and build a pod for another speaker in the door pocket, or vice versa. i plan on putting my tweets next to the windshield, firing straight across at the passenger pillar, inside a molded pod.

i may change my mind a million times before then too, lol.

right now im leaning towards legatia 8 pros in the doors for my midbass.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, the Hybrid 8;'s would be great, for woofers dont go SE, just stick with the standard L8's though, i really wanted to go with the l8's but i didn't wanna mod my door that much, plus i already have plenty of bass in my cabin i'm quite happy. in fact, i was suspsired when i took my front stage out, i thought i was getting allot more of the bass i have from my mids in my doors, turns out almost all of it was from the sub lol, it blends so well i didnt even notice. after i get these pods done, and the pillar pods finished, i'm doing a false floor in my trunk, and a glassed box in the corner, sealed. also chaning out my stereo for a pioneer avic z130 contrery to my sigs status. i was gonna go with the sony but decided against it, and than i was gonna go with the x930, but than decided since i have more than i thought i would i would just go all the way. the 130 has traffic GPS, and HD radio built, something i could eaisly spend 300$ in additions onto the 930 anyways.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

My friend has the Hybrids in his S2000 and he swears by them. For a head unit, I have no idea what I want to do, I'm running a stocker at the moment with a PAC line out converter.

I was thinking the Kenwood KDC-X994 or a carputer, but now after browsing a lot of posts, I have no idea what I am going to do.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Lookin' good Ray!
Keep it up


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

never got the 2nd layer on  got a couple 2nd peices on the first one i did but resin was hardening up and ran out of time, than it got to cold to get anything done. i'm waking up early tomrowo morning to put another layer on first thing int he morning than gonna work on the pods, and if i'm really productive i'll start on the center channel.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

lookin good! i finally took pictures of some of the stuff that im doing including mounting those speakers in the oem door baffle. right im now im puttin techflex on the 3 wire runs ill be putting in my door tomorrow. i can only do one side cause i only got 25 feet of tech flex lol.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ahh coo, link em up. 


i got some layers on first thing this morning, i put 2 on at once, sadly i didnt put enough hardner  i just applied a 3rd layer with an out ragiouse of hardner and made sure it seeped through nice and good, so we should be safe. also picked up the vinyl at a local fabric store, some really nice feeling stuff, idk how to compare vinyls ive only seen a few, and this was the nicest none fancy patern stuff they had in vinyl. got it at 8$ a yard, which was a steal, i got 3 yards of it for 24$


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got some short hair fiberglass for structure, putting it on the face, and i'll apply a little bit to the back than around the angles for a little more structure. as you can see the sun is playing nice with me today


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got only the passenger side in  i ran out of daylight. but the angles worked out perfectly, they aim very well at the people in the car, but i still had to mod the door a bunch, the flange that used ot wrap around the speakers just didnt match up with the angles i got, should of done more testing i guess. meh, all worked out, everything fit.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

not bad. i didn't see if you said but are you going to deaden your doors and seal them up?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah eventualy just didnt have allot of time.  i did mention i deadened the baffles though, i dont think i took any pictures of it, but the back of them are deadened. 

its raining tomorow, and i have class monday all day so i wont get any work probobly till next thursday, maybe some work tuesday, but probobly not much, the most work will get done next weekend. while drying those baffles i did do some work on the brackets for the mids and tweets, got the holes in, and trimed them down a bit more, still got some tweaking to do on them, im taking allot of time with those because i want them to come out good. 


1 extension cord and 1 high output light later, i managed to get the other speaker in, sadly though it was way off and i had to do some extensive modifications on the door panel  i managed to finily find the spots that were catch and cut them down, the grill needs to be modded a bit more its sitll pushing against the rim of the speaker  but i did manage to get the door panel on and it had no vibrations so it's good for now. 

on the other hand, i finily got to hear the L6's, and they sure are great speakers...but i can hear some defects, more than you'd expect from a 200$ driver <_< but they sound good, better than my old ones, the work was worth it, it sounds great with those angles.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just ordered the new deck, the final upgrade to my system (for now  ) went with sony's latest line, the top teir unit, it offered the same size screen and same basic features for 300$ less.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

which deck would that be?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

the Sony XNV-770BT. 

Sony XNV-770BT (XNV770BT) In-Dash 7" Navigation w/DVD Receiver


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

not bad. looks like a nice double din with nav


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

I reran my power cable last night. The first run was through the driver's side near the brake pedal through an unused grommet. That run pretty much wastes almost 6 feet because it has to go up then across the stock strut bar, then towards the fuse/battery.

This time I ran it through the foot well of the passenger side. There is a rubber block there that leads to a boot. Saves a lot of wire.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> I reran my power cable last night. The first run was through the driver's side near the brake pedal through an unused grommet. That run pretty much wastes almost 6 feet because it has to go up then across the stock strut bar, then towards the fuse/battery.
> 
> This time I ran it through the foot well of the passenger side. There is a rubber block there that leads to a boot. Saves a lot of wire.


yeah i ran mine on the shorter run, its harder to get through the grommit,m but at 3$ a foot for 1\0, well worth it


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

YOU HAVE TO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT THAT SONY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its in my top 3 for choices on my next DD


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

rexroadj said:


> YOU HAVE TO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT THAT SONY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Its in my top 3 for choices on my next DD


yeah i know youre the one who pointed it out to me, at the end of the day it was the ideal choice, best value if you ask me.  the sony unit looks really nice, i watched dozens of videos. and was listening for the pioneer release date but heard nothing, heard march march march, than all the suden its may, when i heard may i just said **** it, they dropped the ball i'm out lol the sony offers much more reliable map updates for FREE 4 times a year, and i liked the way tom tom looked, looked very inuative.and now you can mark mistakes IN your gps, and when you go to plug it in, it sends the info to tom tom, and they take the info and fix it!

i should have it by the end of this week, so probobly gonna install it over the weekend if the weather plays nice and i have time.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

took the door panels back off today to tweak the issues i was having, took about a 1\4" off the rings depth, and trimed the door panel some more. i'm currently glueing a new ring under neath the origonal, for more bracing since i took so much off. i'll be glassing another layer on top of everything because the bondos still stinking and the fiberglass resin chemical must have a shorter "half life" or what ever they call it because it disaptes much faster. 

i'm going to do some work tomorrow if i can on tweeter placment, i'll hopefully get them hot glued up into place, and get the cloth wraped, and than wednsday i'll fiberglass it up


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## SfTrainer (Sep 6, 2010)

Ive had the Sony Double Din for about 10 days and it has been a great addition to my system...does everything under the sun very well. The only downside I can see is the lack of traffic info....on the surprising side it even tells me when traffic camera's are coming up.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sounds fun  tom tom also routes you based on rush hour, if its rush hour it'll use different roads, i dont believe it has a traffic chip but i could be wrong. 


anyways, i'm on a break from working on my car, spent most of the morning finishing things up on the door panels, repaired a switch, and finished remounting the woofers, everything appears good. sounds good as well  

I finished the morning by preping the new brackets for the tweets and mids, and have just finished mounting them (well, i have them in the car  ) and am thinking through what to do next, i listned to it a bit, and found I kind of missed the rear fill :\ I can defanatly hear it, i'm also having trouble because the tweets beam when on axis, but the mids are dull off axis, so i'ma have to twist them, i forsaw this though and had already througt through what and how i'll twist them, not a real big achievment to twise them, just cut and turn  but i'll glue and sand things back. i might not get the cloth wraped today because i wanna take my time on placment, don't wanna rush this process  its very important and is somewhat a no turn back zone once i start cutting trim and such  

the trims for the speakers


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ran out of drive today, just pooped, been working on it since 8 this morning and just flat out tired, i didnt get the tweeters mounted because they were still drying, i cut them between the drivers and turned the mid more on axis. no pictures of that not really worth taking. you can all imagine what glued wood looks like. 


just a picture to make the post worth making. 

the work station...and yes, thats my dog taking a leak in the background :|









edit : 

the baffles finily dried so i sanded the edges to line up so they'll be easier to get the cloth over and fiberglass, sharp edges = no fun. they look seemless, but could use a tighter sand job, i just wanted to cut the edges off since i had free time and its these ltitle chores that seem to slow you down when you're trying to make real progress. this goralas glue is a work of art, idk how i'd live with out it, it glues ANYTHING to anything, it's crazy!


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

i just took off the passenger side panels in the rear, guess what i found? a HUGE empty space.

there is some hard foam in front of the cavity, which im assuming is for safety, that i took out and whipped out the tin snips and increased the size of the opening, which was two 4"x4" squares to a rectangle that allowed me to slip one of my amps in there. so im going to build a bracket to mount an amp in there and after that is done, the factory hard foam can go right back as if nothing was missing.

however the cavity has direct access tot he body molding that runs down the side, so i need to figure out how to make a vapor barrier first. prolly outta some 8 mil plastic sheeting and sound dampener, spray foam, bed liner, or some of the spray deadener.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

wow didnt even know that was their, ive never taken those panels off, i just lifted the corner to run my speaker wire. interesting to know. on another note...i just steped on one of my baffles that i carlessly left laying on the ground..guess who gets to cut a whole new bracket out? and glew it all over again :"(


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

me either! i just wanted to mount an amp behind the panel, i never thought i would find a cavity.

sucks about the baffle! but at least you get to have some practice and wood isnt expensive!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> me either! i just wanted to mount an amp behind the panel, i never thought i would find a cavity.
> 
> sucks about the baffle! but at least you get to have some practice and wood isnt expensive!


practice? :laugh: this is the 12th baffle ive made for these mids and tweets. good news is the same glue that worked to bond the 2 pieces. worked like a charm, that stuff is really nifty  and i just checked the trackig, the ETA of my deck is TOMORROW


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright gents, progress, i didnt get anything done  but i did get the deck in and manage to break a amp! suposedly, we'll go into that. 

alright, got the deck wired up, placed, GPS unit mounted, antena mounted, bluetooth mounted, dash modafied to fit full screen unit, and now i'm in the middle of finishing up the dash, still need to make a new baffle for the face fo the deck since the deck was an odd shape and the baffle that came with my dash kit didn't fit it, so i jsut used the mounting breakers and i did make an attempt at a baffle but my edges came out to ugly so i didnt put it on. 

problems began with that baffle, than while trimming my dash, i trimmed the wrong port on accident, so now my Ac control unit has a gap along the edge  than, finily got that sorted out..got the dash back in, started putting some of the panels back on, and threw in the mid\tweeter baffles for some placment testing...this was the first time ive tried them since i twise them..i forgot to account for the angle, so they didnt work..im not cutting the baffle into rings and mounting them sepratly. works out, that way i can keep the mid tighrter to the pillar, and place them in the ideal spots for each driver. anyways, got some of that tried out, tried some tweaking with cross overs, than realised my sub wasn't on..turns out after 2 hours of troubleshooting that the amp was faulting off, some reason it turning its self off, took me 2 hours before i noticed this red light on the amp...by than it was time to call it a day. anyways, time for pictures. 

didnt crimp this time boys good old solder and shrink wrap. and those joins will never come apart


















the deck wired up









ran the Bluetooth mic wire up the A pillar
















after some sevier modification to the stock bracket, i mounted the mic up right above the driver seat, about 2' out from the corner in the line, i ran the wires, and doubleside taped it up their.









the external GPS unit, took the glove box out, and modified it to accept this unit. worked out really nicely, gives me complete access to it, and its completely out of site, barley even takes up any space on me. you can also see, their are absolutely no wires  i wanted to mount this in the center console, would of been my faverate spot for it, but the wire off the unit was more intended for glove box mounting clearly because it was far to short also made me mount the antenna inside the car, instead off on the trunk lid or the rear deck like i wanted too


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

GPS unit mounted, with glove box remounted, everything plugged in.









it's alive! 









thats all i got, it's supposed to be even nicer tomorrow i'm hoping to get allot of work done, i'm starting early and getting those boating moving! i'll be placing, clothing and puting some layers of fiberglass on the A pillars, as well as finishing up some loose ends on the deck mounting. wasted almost my whole day installing this deck, so much ********  even though it only took me 40 mins to do the deck install its self, to get the periferals installed and everything it was 3 pm, and i had started at 9 amp.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got things finalized with the deck install, ran the USB through he center console, sound deadened the center console, and i tightied up some more ****.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

video demo coming soon, its 1080p so it's going to take awhile.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

i cant stand our cup holders.. the one in front of the shifter doesnt hold drinks very well and the one at the top is too high up, so you hit the drink with your arm while driving..

ive got my center console taken apart right now too. im turning the pen holder into a slot that my eq goes in and i wanna get it wrapped in vinyl or suede or whatever my wallet tells me i can do.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i got 3 yards of 48" tall vinyl for 25$ that i'm using on my dash board, and on my A pillars. that center consoles a tricky wrap though, good luck with that lol you';ll need some grade A vinyl for that kind molding, and the patience of a saint. 

anyways, finily got some pictures off of my phone, its been giving me issues. bleh
heres the 1 pillar pod i have modled up, i might change it, i was a little unhappyw itht he angle that came out but i'm going to try it out and see tomorow after work. these A pillars suck to put back in, and i always smack my self in the head when removing them because you pull them sideways towards your self and it always smacks you're self


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

picked up some spandex today to try instead of that fabric ive been using, its a bit more, but it should go on better and give me a better result. 

also finily got the reveiw video posteded up on youtube, its like 4 mins in HD so it took like 2 hours.

what you hear in the video are just the L6's, they sound amazing by themselves i had my buddy in the car the other day and he could of sworn they were at least a coax set or a 2 way set  they play exceptionally well. none the less, thats what you hear so far. if you havn't noticed in my build log pictures ive only mounted 1 ring, thats because ive decided to go tweeterless i think, i'm going to mount that up, and before i ressin it, i'll give them a listen in their final position, I didnt mind them in towels in the corners so i doubt i'll have an issue, i was advised away from this by some other audio professionals on the forum and otherwise, but i didnt really hear the difference, they told me they would beam to much and wouldn't give the natural tones the tweeter could do, but i honest don't hear a problem, if i didnt have to give up my rear deck i woudlnt mind it, but i just hear the missing space to much now that ive had them for so longl. so hard to break old habits ya know. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tfx5kme852g

oh also, i picked up an ipod classic for school and my car and ****, i burned up my old ipod, back in like the 2nd or 3rd gen back in 06 when i flipped my stratus and i havn't had an ipod since  so i finily broke down and bought a new one, i was getting by when i had an iphone but now that i dotn anymore its quite a bother. 











i don't think i'm going to do any work today, i'm exausted after work. i might reaplly that fabric, with the new stuff i got, the spandex, see how it works out, i hope it works out better than that other fabric did, and the good thing about the spandex is it'll double as my speaker cloth for covering my speakers, which is till have NO idea how i'm going to do :\ so, any advice would be great at this point lol just winging it right now.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sorry doublepost


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)




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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright, i did the passenger side, and repaired the driver side to the angle i liked. 

i achived this by simply removing one of the back angle posts, and put in a longer one, the spandex simply streched out, i'll have to fill in a bunch than. 


















mocking up the passenger side 



















it didn't work out  









fixed  









i did a few more things, i finished wraping the passenger side in spandex, and tweaekd the angle a bit more. i think things are going well for my first time


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got them glassed a, than found out the fabrid sag issue was bigger than i had faired, the driver side was fine because their was a brace their, but the passenger side sagged to much and the driver engine hit it i had to cut out the backside, refabric it, and put some posts in to hold it out to make sure it won't go to far in this time. wasn't to big of a deal. 

the driver side came out pretty good. 










but i don't know, the resin doesn't adhear to the plasic...almost at all, its held on their from the frabic and where it was glued to the unit, but I'd like to have something more than that to rely on to hold it on, what preperation could i do to the surface to get it to stick? should i bondo the suface? sand it?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

and the mess lol almost looks like art


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

so close! i'm almost done with the driver side, i need to sand it a bit, than do one more fill to catch all the spots i sand to much off of, and rinse and repeat on the passenger side. i just took it out to the car to check to make sure i didn't put to much on in materials, and the clerences are great, and the pods blend in very nicely. 

here are some pictures of me sanding, the difference btween pictures 2 and 3 compared to picture 1 are huge, but they can't really be seen, but theirs about 40 mins of sanding between the 2nd and 3rd picture from the first picture. lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright! time for some poen for all of you who have been religasly following, and for those of whome just stroled in out of interested..well what ever you're not cool <_< I "finished" the driver side pod, it still needs a few touch ups with some bondo in some tiny lows, but i might not even bother since its getting vinyl anyways, but this thing is almost smooth enough to put a paint finish on. 




























heres a picture of the inner wall, to show you how i structured it with the short hair bondo.









this will be the finish mounting look, these drivers are just so good looking, their was no real need to grill them off.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

end of the day, i pretty much got em done, the passenger side needed some touch up, than i noticed that the tail of behind the pod wasn't adheared to the plastic, i broke it off, turned out to be a rather larger peice  i had to rough up the suface and i just put on a new layer, it was getting dark so i called it a night. since i had a batch mixed up, i patched up the driver side, and its pretty much at paintable condition, i think i went a bit overboard seeing how it's all getting vinyl, but if you're going to do it, might as well do it right and to last ^_^


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

its been awhile since ive updated, thats because the cold weather came in and i was never able to fine tune the bondo and get it wraped.  but rest assured it'll be soon. 

in the mean while, i'd like to review abou these l6's, since i have no high range, im runningt hem full range...and with my ms-8 handling some imaging...these things..holy ****ing ****, you cant believe the clarity of these, the bass is SO tight and perfect. and the highs are so even and perfect, not to bright nwo to dull, just right ^_^ but for 200$ drivers they better be huh. anyways, thats all ive to report for now.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I've been held back by the weather, today was the first mildly acceptable day in a long time and i really didn't get anything done. i've begun preperations to vinyl it, but i'm having trouble figuring out how to do it. 

but i'm done with the driver side, it just needs to be vinyl'd and it's done. I wasn't abble to finish bondoing out fills on the passenger side last time i was working on it, i goed snow'd out...i know snow -_- weathers crazy lately. 

anyways...i mounted up the passenger side for the first time since I mocked it up with the ring. I have NO IDEA what happened but it happened in a good day, I know the one gentleman pointed out that if my air bag went off it would of hit pod, well apparently something happened..i have no idea, maybe when I was mocking it up i didn't have the trim piece all the way in and didn't realize it, but in the end they were exactly even and it worked out.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

vinyl is easy if you get the stretchy kind. unless you need to sew, then it gets complicated.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

wow... where to start? um, first off, you are NOT going to be able to wrap that in vinyl. if you did it successfully you would have to have it stitched. 

second, if you were to cover that in vinyl you are no where near finished, as all the bumps ridges, etc would show through and look awful. 

with the angle that you are making your pods, it would have been easier for you to just cut some 3" pvc pipe and glue that onto your pillar... if you wanted this to flow into the car better, you may want to think of how you can better integrate the aftermarket look into your stock car. 

i applaud you for trying "glassing" as I remember you were contemplating going to a shop. with that said, after your first few "failures" you'll find a system that works best for you. one tip that I swear by is "prep, prep, prep". if you want to have a better and easier finishing process, it's imperative that you plan out every aspect of the build. taking time to get the initial mold right is crucial, and that starts with the stretching of grill cloth (or whatever fabric you use - i wouldn't use spandex). If the initial shape is even the least bit off or incorrect, then the rest of the process is going to be a headache. 

check out more of the custom work done in the build logs... there is plenty of info out there to help you avoid some of the mistakes you made this time around the next time.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

mattyjman said:


> wow... where to start? um, first off, you are NOT going to be able to wrap that in vinyl. if you did it successfully you would have to have it stitched.
> 
> second, if you were to cover that in vinyl you are no where near finished, as all the bumps ridges, etc would show through and look awful.
> 
> ...


I appriciate the feedback. to be honest the info to be gained through reading threads is only going to get your 40% there if you ask me, ive read hundreds, but the detailed info on what exactly was done and what is used is rarley all there, and almost all applications I read about weren't really what i was interested in. but i think I've done a fine job thus far. 

as far as ridges and dents..really their aren't allot, everything thats there would of been covered. allot of the wrid looking stuff is either where I filled in the lowers around the fiberglass and let the smooth highs poke through, and somme of the larger mixes i made had a dif ratio of hardner so it gave it a weird look :blush: again i'm not familiar with the materials but i'm fairly certain they've dried fine. i did have some issues with it sticking and had to repair the passenger side 3 times  eventually i fiberglassed the whole piece on the end so it had something better to grab, for some reason i couldn't;'t get it to grab that part of the plastic, on the driver side i worked the fiberglass further down so thats why it didn't have that problem. 

the vinyl i have would of covered that fine had it worked. if the fabric i find is less lenient with showing dents i'll sand accordenly, i think I might just end up going with more of a tweed type fabric instead of vinyl unless i can find a vinyl that'll work but i think I might have to just fold on that matter as I'm not experienced enough with upholstering and the like. going to the fabric store tomorow for some fabric shopping, but first thing tomorow morning i'm going to put one layer of bondo on the passenger side.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just some more pictures, i took these 2 before i started working on it today. 



















i'm hoping to get done today but if it doesn't hapen it doesn't but it really should be about done today. i'm on what i'm hoping to be the final coat of bondo right now, but you know how it is, you skim, sand, repeat


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Mattyjman is right about how hard it will be to wrap those. The best trick I learned was to keep my shapes smooth and broad. Wrapping sharp corners and stuff is really hard. Look at some of the builds Simplicityinsound has done. He's actually very good at vinyling from the results, but look more at the shapes of his a-pillars...especially the Acura he just did with the H-audio stuff.

Also, vinyl stretchy enough to wrap something like an a pillar is pretty thin, and will show almost every imperfection like paint will...best bet, prep like you plan to paint them.

Also, don't try to use spray glue from a can...after a while of the sun beating down on the pillars, it will start to let go and look very bad.

I applaud the effort, but we're just trying to save you alot of time and headache.

Good luck on the rest of your build.

When I usually have to wrap something, I like Rave faux leather (I get it at Joann Fabrics)...it's a backed vinyl, buy if you carefully peel the backing off it is VERY stretchy.

Jay


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeha, i think finishing these bad boys up is a bit over my head. i had planed on using some industrial grade spray glue  but i had feared what you jsut told me, but i had nobody telling me which way that would turn. 

I'm at the point now we're i'm just painting them to get them back in, than i'm going to go back to my shops and see if i can talk them into this. i'm thinking they may even want to reshape them and broden them like you're saying but i'll descuss that with who does it, right now the guys i'm talking to are 12v daves, which is 20 or so mins out of philli, pa. or i might even get a quote from A and S instalations from allentown, they do fantastic work but they are a much larger shop and have much more overhead :-s 

anyways, i just sprayed em up...they look pretty crummy to be honest i'm not even gonna take any pictures lol the rings still aren't the shape i wanted them...i kept putting bondo on and it just never seemed to work out. next time i do something like this 'm going to do more prep work like he's suggesting. but as far as i'm concearned, i tried. i didnt completly fail and I think it all will work out and i'll end up with some nice pillars. 

i'll post up how satisfied i am with the sound..but i can't imagine any problems, ive heard them before and i'll be honest i'm practicly satisfied with the way the L6's are playing at full range, they sound amazing. i'll post a picture of something but i'm not going to take anything details..it's really not all that great


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

don't get all down because you aren't having the best experience so far. take a look at my first try at glassing with my g35... total failure. i learned a lot on the build logs here, as well as fiberglassforums.com... if you did want to wrap these with a low cost option, again you'll need to finish them better (get Rage Gold Extreme - best body filler ever), but you could try grill cloth... it's much easier to wrap with but the look would be a little different than vinyl. just a suggestion


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

+1 on Rage Gold...however, since I've never seen it in anything smaller than a gallon, I used Dynatron DynaDelite lightweight filler. It's VERY similar, and comes in a quart. The trick is the let it tack up somewhat firm and use either an abrasive sandpaper (like 40-60 grit) or a cheese grater to get your basic shape down before it dries, then use varying grits of sandpaper to smooth it out.
For paint you'd probably want to take it out to something like 600grit or higher, but for grille cloth or vinyl you could probably be fine going out to like 220. Air tools are a lifesaver, if available.

Jay


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i wish i had some air tools, i have a palm sander though which has been a huge time saver. also for the larger sanding i used a dreml with a sanding bit, it's a hugeee life saver, the only downsite is how easy it is to take to much off with it, as aposed to a cheese grater lol  

i know i sound really down about ..and thats because i am  I have diesapointed my self, the pods look fine to me but I just got to far ahead of my self and am stuck now, on top of that i have stress of school and life and the like, and I just got a lovley email back from an employee of 12 volt daves who i had been corasponding with about the work on my car, and aprently my last comment to him wasn't the nicest thing, but if somebody quoted you something than told you it would be twice that, you'd be annoyed too, espeicly when it put you over a month behind on your project like this has  he literary told me to go **** my self and that my pods look like ****..i found this a bit unprofessional even to a client who had been not the nicest person which granted i am no saint..but telling me to **** my self and do it my self is no way to be. I'm sure dave would still do the work at the shop but i thin its in my best interest to just go to A and S now, there only 20 mins away anyways, but it's probably going to cost me more. 


grill cloth is the only finish i don't think I'd do, i mean paint wasnt very above it but it was sitll more acceptable to me, i'm going to try it though see how it looks i guess but i doubt it. I have a **** load of spandex left over, i bought like 3 yards lol idk why. but yeah...i'm just kinda bumming right now  hopefully A and s comes back to me with a fair quote, i was thinking around the 150$ range, maybe a bit more if they don't use the vinyl i have. especily if they want to change the shape of my pods :-s


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## ryomanx (Feb 18, 2011)

i wouldn't give up on fiberglassing it yourself just yet. you asked me about why i made my box the way i did and i told you i didn't know how to make it the other way. well i've been working on another box for a crx and it went much better this time. it's a learning process just like everyone has said. give it another go. you won't learn if don't. best tip i could give that worked for me this time: the activator, use SPARINGLY!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well thanks for those kind words.  

i think i just need to have more patience and take more time, i think with more sanding ( wet sand now fun :'( ) i'll get where i need to be. i'll have to see if theirs a way for me to fill them out a bit more to make the curves a bit less extream too. still waiting on a reply from the one company, i'm certain they'll give me a fair price, i've been doing buisness with them in and out for over a year, bought gobs of power cable from them lol and ive had them do some work in the past on stuff i was unconformable with.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

You would have said the same after you were insulted and as nasty as you were to him. I got an email from the same guy last night since we know each other and I referred you over there. First of all he never quoted you $400, you asked if he could do it for $400, and by it I meen A pillars and a custom center channel to match the dash. He said he would get back to you with a price and when he did it was for $700. You proceeded to go off on the guy and he never got nasty with you. Now you go back and ask him to not only do them but fix your work as well and do it for $150!! Come on, that's just insulting. If I were you I would go over to A&S and hope they do it for you because I don't think you will get much help from 12 Volt Daves at this point.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

their is to be no drama in this build log, thank you. it's already seen quite enough with the shanagans with the other monte guy.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I think my problems have been solved, i'll get back to you guys with more details.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

thanks team for getting rid of the flaming  good looking out. 


now progress!

i've come up with a solution, i've been informed of this method called "flocking" and i'll be doing a synthedic suede flocking, ive already ordered up the parts (for links you can PM me) I also cleaned up the ****ty paint attemp i made last weekend, and i'm in the middle of reaplying some patches with this glazing puddy i found in the bondo section  works great for them small spot skim coats, and i even used a little to fill out some lows i missed but was to lazy to mix new batches of bondo for. 

anyways, right now i'm on some dry time.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Looking MUCH better Ray! Keep it up! You'll get it


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah i just wish they sounded as good as they look  I'm considering the step up to the SE's since they have a much smaller engine, and require less space, they also play a bit higher, which helps with the tweeterless set up. not the L4's need the help in that area, they play fantastic. i'll also be cutting the the Highpass for the mids much higher as a result of the problems ive encountered  hopefully polyfil helps too. it should help a bunch.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

eviling said:


> yeah i just wish they sounded as good as they look  I'm considering the step up to the SE's since they have a much smaller engine, and require less space, they also play a bit higher, which helps with the tweeterless set up. not the L4's need the help in that area, they play fantastic. i'll also be cutting the the Highpass for the mids much higher as a result of the problems ive encountered  hopefully polyfil helps too. it should help a bunch.


L4SE will not solve or even help your problem. The problem is you are choking the driver. Spending more money on different Hybrids speakers is not going to solve that problem. 

I you are hellbent on placing a speaker in a coffee cup, buy a speaker designed to be played in a coffee cup. Hybrids are designed to live in as close to an infinite baffle design as you can give them. Think no enclosure at all, but just a membrane that separates the front wave from the back wave. None of their drivers will suit this type of installation. I would recommend either reselling the L4s for something suited to that installation or reconfigure the enclosure to make them happy. Those are the only two ways that YOU will be happy. 

I'm not trying to bring you down, I am trying to help you get what you paid for in the L4. You do not have to heed my advice, and I am not trying to sell you anything. When you read that 80% of a car's sound is install, this is what they mean. I know from experience with the L4s - they got me to a state championship over a carfull of Focal Beryllium drivers in a freaking Nissan GT-R built by Chris Pate. I know what they can do and what it takes to get them there. 

Best of luck,
Todd

Please don't take this the wrong way. You have done an excellent job for your first time, and if you were working with a speaker that liked a small enclosure you would be golden. You aren't, though, so we're trying to point you towards success. NoDrama +1!


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Great advice Todd! 
Do you think if he tapped into the pillar from the pod (put a hole in the bottom of the pod) that that would be enough? Maybe put some fill in the pillar?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> L4SE will not solve or even help your problem. The problem is you are choking the driver. Spending more money on different Hybrids speakers is not going to solve that problem.
> 
> I you are hellbent on placing a speaker in a coffee cup, buy a speaker designed to be played in a coffee cup. Hybrids are designed to live in as close to an infinite baffle design as you can give them. Think no enclosure at all, but just a membrane that separates the front wave from the back wave. None of their drivers will suit this type of installation. I would recommend either reselling the L4s for something suited to that installation or reconfigure the enclosure to make them happy. Those are the only two ways that YOU will be happy.
> 
> ...



alright than lets talk drivers, I do have some tweeters laying around if i have to go 3 way, but if its possible to stay tweeterless, lets try, i doubt theirs another 4" out their with this range, ive also been advised away from the 2 way with no tweeter but that aside i' still tried anyways. would prefer another 4" that fits with out to much modding to the work already done, but it's not to much out of the question for some modification i'm not honestly formiluar with speaker size forms, so i don't know what's going play nice with this enclousure as far as format and size. please do point me in a direction with drivers though, if its needed to go tweeters, the tweeters i have are the SB SB29RDCN neo dome tweeters, their very nice tweeters, they play very well off axis. going 3 way is no problem, i even have speaker wire ran, if you would of read from the begining i had planned on 3 way till i heard the L4's, well not entirly ture..i was advised into 3 way out of 2 way tweeterless...than went back into the idea of tweeterless :blush:

anyways, let me know what you think would work for me thanks 

some other tweeters i am interested in, i might trade up the SB's for these

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=8497

they would mount better too  

heres a 4" i just grabbed out of the list right out the bat, that had a nice finish to it, and was in a nice price range 
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_234_265&products_id=8985

but do give me more ideas, and tell me what kind of specs i'm looking for, i know the QtS rating and the free air resisance have allot to do in how they are enclousre, i how ever do not know which specs mean they do better where. 





rexroadj said:


> Great advice Todd!
> Do you think if he tapped into the pillar from the pod (put a hole in the bottom of the pod) that that would be enough? Maybe put some fill in the pillar?


yeah, the bottem is tapped into the pillar, i was hoping that extra air would help but since it's not imediate to the drivers air space, i doubt that extra space has any bonus effects, one of the things i am going to try to get them to play nice is some poly fill and cutting them off higher on the highpass. (as a temp solution) for now i think i'm just going to get the pods sanded, primered and mounted just to play with them, i won't flock them till i am 100% sure on what i'm doing with them as far as drivers.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Oh, sorry... I missed that you opened them up into the pillar....Scratch that thought then


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

rexroadj said:


> Oh, sorry... I missed that you opened them up into the pillar....Scratch that thought then


yeah i guess i never mentioned it, but it can be seen in a few pictures. 





































you get the idea now your busted for skimming my build log :blush:


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Nope....looks super familiar.... I'm just dumb


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

lol its all good, on the bright side, this fibegrlass bondo is incredible to work with, it holds edges very well, it can be a bit hard to apply as it gets kinda chunky, but sanding it off gives such a solid finish, its much tougher, comes off allot harder, which means i take off to much far less often, in fact, i just applied 2 small coats and i sanded them down and i needed no patch work, how ever the edges still weren't out enough so i just applied a 3rd layer along the edges. i wasted like 2 + hours waiting on that glazz stuff to dry fully and it barley got hard enough to sand than it started popping off, im sure if i gave it more cure time it would of but it didn't follow the scheme of things i had planned, so i busted out the bondo even though i hate it lol, love the smell though :X 

just to show you how nice it is to work, the right side looked like the left side only 3 mins earlier, and it came out with almost no lows, unlike bondo which would give me lows all over. 










this is the other bot, which was done, this is the one that needed the lip more than the driver side, the driver side was almost completly uniform, i'm just applying the other side just to get it a more uniform shape. oh and btw, the walls of the pod at this point...about 1\4" thick 









i know it seems like i keep back paddeling but i'm a stickler for details, and i'm never happy till its perfect. btw, ipod while sanding is a must! life is just so much better with something to jam to while you sand


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

> Great advice Todd!
> Do you think if he tapped into the pillar from the pod (put a hole in the bottom of the pod) that that would be enough? Maybe put some fill in the pillar?


The problem is the area immediately around and behind the mounting point. It is, literally, a cup the diameter of the speaker and the length of the speaker. It needs to be more like mounting a speaker on a board. If he took the pillar he has and stretched the entire thing in fleece/fabric then cut his pod out from under it, it would be a million times better for the speaker. It wouldn't look the way he wanted it to, though. instead of the speaker sitting in a space that looks like this "|-|" it would be in a space like this "/-\". The closer you can get it to be a space like this "/------\" the better off you are. If you would like I'll head out to the shop and mock up what he has, take a picture, then mock up how I would solve it and snap a pic of that. 

As for speakers, one of the primary Thiele-Small parameters that correlate with enclosure size is Vas. Vas is the 'volume of air whose compliance is equivalent to the suspension of the speaker'. Smaller Vas means a stiffer suspension and a smaller optimal enclosure. That is not the ONLY parameter that determines enclosure size, but it is a strong factor.

One driver that I seem to remember doing well in a very small enclosure was a Scan-Speak Discovery I believe. It may have been this 4" at Madisound but I AM NOT CERTAIN. I would check with bikinipunk (a moderator here) and see if he is specifically aware of which Scan it is. I haven't played with it personally and it is out of my area of expertise. The page there says that driver has an F3 of 275Hz in 1 liter of volume. Not bad at all, and the HF extension on axis may be enough to get you by without a tweeter. That SB you linked doesn't appear fitting at first blush, but I have no direct experience with it, either.

-Todd


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

So I would take the dremel and cut away everything like in the first pic, below. Then I'd stretch an OLD T-SHIRT, not whatever that crap was you used previously, over the part. Attach it with a hot glue gun on the BAC side of the pillar. Saturate it with resin up to the edge of the pillar and about 1/4" around the corner towards the back. Trim with the Dremel around the edges once it is rock-friggin-solid (no more than 30 minutes or you mixed it wrong. Apply heat with a hairdryer to make it kick). Now you should be 80% done. 

Since you cut most of the back out of the pillar, flip it over. Put surgical gloves on, mix up about 4 Oz of resin and have some 1"x8" strips if fiberglass matt cut and set aside. About 6-8 pieces. With a 2" disposable 50cent chip brush, wet out one piece of matt on a hunk of cardboard. Once the piece is wet, PICK IT UP with your fingers (thus the gloves) and lay it on the back side of the part. Continue doing this, overlapping, till it is completely covered. Dispose of cardboard, gloves, and brush. Once that is set (another 30 minutes or less, applying hairdryer heat to the part once you have all the glass on!) you should have a fairly solid, thin part. Trim with dremel to 'clean it up. Repeat if necessary until it is nice and rigid and no more than 1/8" thick. Now you can flip it over and finish blending with your friendly bondo-glass to finish. Note how the part is now MUCH easier to wrap with vinyl, and the back side around the speaker has opened WAY up. NOW it can breathe, and it can get to the air on the way to the dash opening...

-Todd


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

thanks but i think the change in drivers would be more ideal, plus i love the idea of saving money on the project  wish i could of gotten this post up before you took all that time to photoshop those images, i do appricate the detailed instructions, if only we had more members like you. 

the SB i linked was just litelry the first driver i saw that appealed to me esteticly lol, that scanpeak 4" looks good, how will it fit though? its still with in a great price range, i thnk i payed 220$ for the pair of l4's. oh and by the way you didn't touch base on the form factor of the driver, so i am to presume since you didnt bother to mention it, it's not going to be a big deal? i sure hate to presume  

if you're interested i'll sell you the L4's since you seem to enjoy them, i also have a 3rd L4 i had planned on using for a center, but i never got dug into my dash, and not that i don't believe i could handle it, in fact i thnk it would be a cake walk..i just really don't think it's needed :\ perhaps another day. 

anyways, i just spent the past 2 hours, and i mean a solid 2 hours sanding the **** out of these pods to perfection, i used the glaze fill on the small ****, and ive got them about 99.9999999999% ready for paint, i would of primered them had i more day light  i did snap some high def pictures, the contrast to the undercoats and different materials i used through out, as well as the varying mixtures of batches makes them look like hell. so you may not see much but i assure you, they are beautiful <3  


















this table sure has seen better days :-s 








and who doesn't have a cabnet full of bondo\resin and grinding tools? i mean come on


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

i spent all day today building a mount for my fuse holder, tech flexin wires, etc..

ive decided for the time being not to glass my pillars due to only having a tweeter, 1" 2w midrange, and a 2" 20w midrange that i could even put in it.

anyway.. im pretty sure that going with an SE wont sound any different that how it does now.do you still have the pieces of wood inside the pod that you used to frame it? if so, can you take em out and cut your opening in the stock pillar to a larger diameter?

if not and you get the SEs, my monte wants L4s


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

eviling said:


> thanks but i think the change in drivers would be more ideal, plus i love the idea of saving money on the project  wish i could of gotten this post up before you took all that time to photoshop those images, i do appricate the detailed instructions, if only we had more members like you.


The 'shop took all of 3 minutes. You really should consider the change, though. It will benefit whatever you put in there.



> the SB i linked was just litelry the first driver i saw that appealed to me esteticly lol, that scanpeak 4" looks good, how will it fit though?


No clue how it would fit. Just pointing you in a general direction. Again, that driver may or may not suit your purposes. Check with Erin as he may be in a better position to help for driver selection.



> its still with in a great price range, i thnk i payed 220$ for the pair of l4's. oh and by the way you didn't touch base on the form factor of the driver, so i am to presume since you didnt bother to mention it, it's not going to be a big deal? i sure hate to presume


Not sure what you mean by form factor here. It's a 4" cone driver... 



> if you're interested i'll sell you the L4's since you seem to enjoy them, i also have a 3rd L4 i had planned on using for a center, but i never got dug into my dash, and not that i don't believe i could handle it, in fact i thnk it would be a cake walk..i just really don't think it's needed :\ perhaps another day.
> 
> anyways, i just spent the past 2 hours, and i mean a solid 2 hours sanding the **** out of these pods to perfection, i used the glaze fill on the small ****, and ive got them about 99.9999999999% ready for paint, i would of primered them had i more day light  i did snap some high def pictures, the contrast to the undercoats and different materials i used through out, as well as the varying mixtures of batches makes them look like hell. so you may not see much but i assure you, they are beautiful <3


I think I'm good for Hybrid drivers, thanks  The middle shelf was last year's build, the lower shelf with the SEs is this year.
BTW, Team DIYMA -> helpful guy that tries to point people in the right direction; Team Hybrids -> knows his HAT drivers. You'll note you also got a hand from ChefHow, also a founding Team DIYMA member. 

Good luck with the rest of the build!
-Todd


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

blueatlanta said:


> i spent all day today building a mount for my fuse holder, tech flexin wires, etc..
> 
> ive decided for the time being not to glass my pillars due to only having a tweeter, 1" 2w midrange, and a 2" 20w midrange that i could even put in it.
> 
> ...


Try them (L4s) in the kicks. They don't take up much space there and will sound PHENOMENAL.  If you need a set...just let me know


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

thanks. I'd make that change but it can't be done like that on the driver side, um..i dont think ive ever posted pictures. i really should, but the driver side instriment cluster raises quite a bit, making the bottom of the pods pretty tight, granted i could of gone higher...i felt they would of looked dumb and woudlnt of been at as optimal a hight, in hind sight..a little to high vrs ****ty sounding is kind of a loose loose right now lol 

i kind of thought since the hybrids were so pioneering they were of their own special size, i'm not sure how interchangable one will be to another. 

anyways, i really like the way those scan peaks look, if they sound as good as they look i'm sold  

i'll get ahold of him and find out some more. 


oh and blue those posts were gone before it was even done curing lol if you're interested in the L4's like you make it sound, get ahold of me, i'll cut ya a deal.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

highly said:


> Try them (L4s) in the kicks. They don't take up much space there and will sound PHENOMENAL.  If you need a set...just let me know


im pricing sets now. imma head up to american radio and see if scott will give me a deal for my bday on the 30th, the last day of his sale


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> thanks. I'd make that change but it can't be done like that on the driver side, um..i dont think ive ever posted pictures. i really should, but the driver side instriment cluster raises quite a bit, making the bottom of the pods pretty tight, granted i could of gone higher...i felt they would of looked dumb and woudlnt of been at as optimal a hight, in hind sight..a little to high vrs ****ty sounding is kind of a loose loose right now lol
> 
> i kind of thought since the hybrids were so pioneering they were of their own special size, i'm not sure how interchangable one will be to another.
> 
> ...


lemme know, i think id like to try a pillar mid install.

and our cars dont lend themselves to straight forward installs.

stupid parking brake in the way and the dash sits higher on the driver side.

im starting to think the monte carlo can only have off-axis tweets at the bottom of the windshield, firing at one another, then a double door pod of some sort.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

it's been a while since I've owned the 10f. What I do recall was that at higher volume levels, crossing it below 300hz was not too hot. 300-350hz seemed to be the best compromise for me, based on my criteria for a midrange (to carry the human vocal range in a single driver), which typically means 250-4khz with some tolerance on either end of that. 
The 10f certainly held its own weight against the 12m I had and would have gone in the car were it not for the distortion issues I noticed at these higher volumes and the crossover points I intended to use. Having said that, I wound up with the most recent install crossing the 12m @ 300hz/24dB. Go figure. 
Additionally, I still thought the 12m had more 'warmth' to it and the 10f, though not bad, just didn't have that characteristic. I hate audiophile terms because no one knows wtf they mean, so I'll just leave it at that. 

Anyway, I recall someone who tested them saying that they didn't like them below 1khz. Can't remember who now, though. But, I did pull up Zaph's blog (here, about 1/3 way down) and pulled out the following graphs:

FR @ 0, 15, 30, 45, & 60 degrees:









Distortion:










Things I'm taking away from the above:
Rising distortion below 1khz might explain why someone was complaining about it below 1khz. I personally didn't notice this, but did think that distortion reared its head below 300hz. 
This driver should pretty much cover you from 300/400hz all the way up to 20khz at up to 15* off-axis. Anything more off-axis than that may result in loss of high end (I'm personally against off-axis aiming not because cars can't sound good... but because it's a whole lot more work via DSP to fix the comb filtering issues that really can't be resolved entirely). 
The one thing that might be cause for concern is the rising 2nd order distortion on the top end. Zaph's distortion measurements cut off @ 10khz due to sound card sampling (what I'm running in to myself and why I just ordered a 96khz sound card for my testing), but you can clearly see an upward trend on 2nd order distortion. Some say even order distortion isn't an issue and to only worry about odd order in regards to its effect on driver tonality/sound. I tend to think that you worry about any 'order' distortion if it's nearing audibility. This may be the case here above 10khz. Might be something to consider when you're listening and maybe even might encourage you to try a tweeter on top. This is the prime reason why I'm not a proponent of going truly full-range/tweeterless. A driver has compromises _somewhere_. You just have to figure out how to work around it.
On that note, the one thing I'm seeing jump out at me is the difference in 2nd and 3rd order distortion on the lower end of the 10f vs the 12m (linked here). This probably explains the tonality differences I heard, too.

If you follow the Mark K link in Zaph's blog you'll see some further distortion testing that shows higher distortion levels (though, not much) than the 12m below 800hz, but lower above 800hz. Interesting. 

Regarding size, if you read Zaph's blog he has an image of the tested response in a 0.85L enclosure that looks really, really good. This was a bit smaller than the size I was going to use, which is what made me think the 10f would be great for my application. It just didn't make the cut due to specified reasons above.




*Cliffs:
*What does this mean? As long as you take the time to test, and dampen the enclosure with some sort of fill (try even fiberglass to dampen the resonance due to small enclosure), you should be good to go with the 10f. Depending on your volume levels, you may be fine crossing down to 300hz, but I'm leaning toward the general suggestion that 400hz/L4 (24dB slope) is 'safe' for most anyone with this driver. You might want to have a tweeter around just to test with to see if the 10f needs to be cut and you need a tweeter to fill in the top end. That's dependent on you and your volume levels, most likely, and whether or not the 2nd order distortion is indeed audible at X volume at X frequency band.


Again, the above is a culmination of my short period with the drivers and what I've read about them. It ain't gospel. 
And to answer the question: the reason I keep talking about the 12m is because it's the one driver I really, really love and is sort of my 'reference' midrange. So, anytime I hear another one I'm considering using, I compare it to the 12m. So far nothing's beat it yet, but I've got a couple drivers on deck due for some listening and testing sessions. 

Hope that helps,
Erin


Edit: forgot to say this:
for the price, it certainly isn't a bad choice of drivers to give a go.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ahh wow, thank you. 

are their any other drivers you'd say, like i said price isn't to big of a deal here. what would you say would work best in this enclosure?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright... very sad day today indeed, i got the sanding done more...and primered them and even got them installed to play with them..thats where the sad part comes in  I had to cut them off above 2200 and they were still tunneling, their is just no room for them babys to breath in their. i'm really quite disapointed, so in fact that i didnt even take any pictures  i played with a few cross over points and slopes. they were just choked so damn much they were killing almost anything i threw at the system. it's quite a shame  i got them in drivable condition wehre i can drive with out feeling like im in a tunnel but i'm def going to have to change drivers or fix the pods. 

i think i might be able to pull of what he advised, after isntalling the driver side, i see i overestimated how tight that corner really was, and that i SHOULD be able to pull the cloth down like he said and get that looking better. I think i'm just going to take a break from it for now though and get back on it after next weekend and start the modifactions, in the mean time i'm going to order up those drivers just so i have something else to try out and play with.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

not to be nit picky but I think this presents its self as a problem :\ 


















the good news is they'll clarly have the air space needed to run, the bad news...they clearly need to be fited for the drivers lol i'm not to heart broken about it i suppose it could of been wearse. but 170$ for these tiny ****s lol kind of is a heart breaker i'm gonna go try em out in a minite see how they sound, i'm a bit concerned since they run at allot less power :\ but we'll see how they sound i suppose.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright, after a beif 20 min listening, tunned to about 400 hz cut off, which wasn't bad at all for the cut off, i was pretty pleased, they handled as much power as i was putting into the L4's i didnt really have to tweak the gains, i did start them off lower but was able to take them back up, they also sound just about as loud, if not louder.

i did hear what bikini spoak of with the hard tones, and the unnatural sounding music, it wasn't very um...shall we say natural, i imagine those 200$ drivers sound much cleaner, but thats 400$ in drivers i don't need to spend :-s the L4's had a more natural sound but also lacked a bit of the punch these f10's, its a give and take kind of thing, for the size of them they are amazing, but i might need to add the tweeters, as they are a bit harsh on the high end, i'm gonna try them with tweeters see how they sound with some different cut off, buts 400 seems like a good cut off for the f10's buttom, I didn't try anything below as i took the man on his word. i'll play with them, see what i can do. 

as far as the basket, i should be able to make another flange out of some 1\4" board or something and get them on their. but maybe i'll jsut tear it down and redo it, i'm unsure yet on what i want to do, i need to look at them more :-s any ideas would be great, i am taking my time on this though, no need to rush. i mean the L6s running full range carry them self pretty well, i haven't really minded the car being with out the top end.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ALRIGHT, heres the plan, i've listned to them, and I was BLOWN away by them with 3 way, for the first time since ive been playing with these set ups, and left conventional systems ive come to some real progress! 

heres the cross road, to do this 3 way, I loose my rear as i only have 8 channels, and 6 speakers and a sub leaves me with only 1 speaker, i could run the rear MONO or i could do this! run an external cross over, i'd use internal but idk if the internal cross overs have the control i'd need for this, so i run program the ms-8 to run 2 way, take cut it off at 400 as if im running with ut the tweeters, take those feeds, go into the cross over, which than splits them up to have 4 outs, 2 for each side, now giving me 5500 on the highpass for the tweets and the 400 for the mids  I've seen this done with other builds to mentain rears with the ms-8, so i know it's a solution, but heres where I don't know where to leap, those people ive seen do it, used internal cross overs, i want to use an external cross over, what cross over would you guys recommend? or should i just run it with the internal cross overs of the alpine PDX 4.150 amp? i'm not sure how they are :\
ive looked at some cross overs but didn;'t see anything that would take 1 set in, 2 sets out, their mostly 3 in 3 out. :\ some do 2 in, 4 out, but thats more for something else i think.

just to show you the difference in size, the magnent on the seas is a MUCH stronger magnet, which is why i assume it's MUCH smaller, unbleiebly small but they still handle about the same power and put out about as much output from what i've heard.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

AudioControl 2XS Concert Series 2-way Crossover (White)

perhaps something like that?


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## brianhj (Apr 9, 2009)

eviling said:


> alright! time for some poen for all of you who have been religasly following, and for those of whome just stroled in out of interested..well what ever you're not cool <_< I "finished" the driver side pod, it still needs a few touch ups with some bondo in some tiny lows, but i might not even bother since its getting vinyl anyways, but this thing is almost smooth enough to put a paint finish on.


what is this i don't even


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

brianhj said:


> what is this i don't even


did you loose your train of thought? :surprised:


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the circle jig thuresday, got the speakers yesterday, and got the upcut bit today, as well as a rabbeting bit to do some recesses  figuired it'd cost me 40$ for a set of rings or 60$ for the jig, and the bits and i can make as many as i want, they come out much better this way than they do with a jig saw  

but i must say i'm disapointed in this jig, it's pretty poorly designed, and i havn't found a single one of the numbers to be true, almost 1\2" off on every hole i went to cut, thank god i pulled out a tape to check what it was doing.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

Must not be the Jasper Jig, then. That bad boy is dead on.
Those holes don't seem very round, either. What kind of jig WAS that? Lol.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

um...those are the ones done by the jasper bracket. lol XD 

but nah they look good to me, plenty good for what i'm doing. i cut out 2 more rings for the mids so they were further recessed so that i could put a grill into them. i need to pick up grill cloth now. the tweeters are going to be super easy to glass in and bondo, i'm just cutitng a hole to the size of that bracket, putting it in half way, gluing, glassing and filling, shouldn't take to much extra work. for the mids i'm cutting off the top ring, and sanding off some stuff that's there, as well as cutting out the backside like you recommended, i'm also cutting part of the front so that it's a smoother transition so that i may sitll be able to vinyl it  

and idk maybe im missreaidng it, i'll have to look at it closer, but it seemed like i was reading something and it was giving me something else. idk i had it mounted upside down too, so i was reading everything upside down XD might of been a contributing factor.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

this is my setup  check out the 25 year old jigsaw XD 




























just finished letting the mid rings dry, i rounded them over with a round over bit, and sanding it up a bit, they still could use some sanding, but they're pretty good if you ask me  I think i might take a 1\4" off of them, they are a bit tall.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

nothing in this thread adds up if you read it lol i only have like 3 items i origonaly had planned to use XD 

finished those rings, built some inner rings so that i can cloth them. was gonna do a steel grill but meh, cloth is cheaper and i have wood laying around. 

ALSO, my sony deck sold as well as my L4's  so i literly just ordered the pioneer avic z-130bt.  and the 40 ipod cable <_< rip off lol


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Re: Jasper Jig.

Dimensions are for a hole. So if it says 2", you get a 2" hole.
If you want a 2" disc, you'd go to 2.5" to account for the 1/4" upspiral bit.

This may be where you were getting off by 1/2"

Jay


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Re: Jasper Jig.
> 
> Dimensions are for a hole. So if it says 2", you get a 2" hole.
> If you want a 2" disc, you'd go to 2.5" to account for the 1/4" upspiral bit.
> ...


yeah i figuired that out :blush:


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## sum_guy55 (Apr 14, 2011)

Really Great work mate just read through the thread can't wait to see it done!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

the pods look good, other than being too big. just factor in the size of your bit and you're set. i love my two jasper jigs. 

what was wrong with the other speakers you had again?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

they wanted to much air, and in all practical sense when i considered everything, I would of never been able ot give them enough air to play at 100% capabilitys up there (with my skills) and rolled the dice on a different set, after listening to them, i decided i had to go back to tweeters, and that the pods still needed to be reshaped for the new drivers, so i'm in the middle of a tear down of sorts, i'm not teating it all down though  just removing the ring, cutting out the back side, and smootthing things out a bit  





































i'm honestly having a hell of a time tearing these down, they were built so strong XD you can see i cut out a patch in the backside of the one pod, but i still can't get it off, i wasn't able to get all the way through with my dremels cutting blade, i ran out to so i'm done for the day but i'm def getting some stronger cutting disks and some other stuff, i need to restock up on brushes and gloves to for the new fiberglassing. 

oh..and i didn't know the ring in the middle of that jaspet jig was removable.. lol that probobly explains the jitteryness i was having, because when i saw the ring it was cocked, causing one end to stick up and one to stink, probobly why it kept catching on me...almost lost my damn finger  the bit i got doesnt seem as good as it should be either, its a craftsman carbite, payed 20$ for the damn thing you would think it would cut like butter but nope


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

all depends on what you're cutting. i use that same bit. i find it easier to do 2-3 passes with it on 3/4 inch. it takes more time but you also dont get the notch at the end to sand down if you take your time.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

meh, i ended up tearing the whole thing down, just gonna build it from the ground up. i dont think i would of ever been able to get them looking right since they were origonaly built for the L4's :-s


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## thewatusi (Feb 1, 2011)

No big deal. Since you now have a lot of practice under your belt, the next time around will be easier and look even better.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

very true, also these drivers are much easier to work with since they're so tiny. i just mounted them in the bracket i made, and looked at how they're going to work out, i think i might runt hem a bit more off axis, they seemed to sound pretty good off axis. I need to get more work done, but i really havn't had much time with school and job interviews and a sick turtle..  

did i mention I ordered the pioneer avic-z130bt  should be here by friday i'm hoping


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I could still really use some advice on what to do with the cross overs, I dont think i can use internal but if you could recommend an external cross over that'll do 1 channel in, 2 out, or something that'd be awesome  i really have no idea when it comes to that sort of thing so any advice would be great


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the other pod torn down (that one was REALLY on their XD ) took me dman near an hour to get it off. 

got the tweeters mocked up and sabbed up and ready for wrapping. took me awhile because i kept having to remake the tweeter baffles, the origonal ones had a 1\16" gap around the edge i didn't like it so i rebuitl them but i kept making them to tight and they kept tearing off the bavel, mdf isn't very strong  anyways, finily got it tuned in and cut so it fits nice and snugg but not to tight. 

gonna mock up the pods..some day, i just got a new job and it's 2nd shift  so eating up allot of my free time that i have to work on this. sigh. 





































those are in enough? i should be able to wrap them and smooth out the edges with out to much fuss :\ i'm trying to work off of what ive seen in other builds.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

mocking up the driver side mids and tweets








pasenger side mock up with tweets and mids








about to wrap driver side 





























I think these are looking FANTASTIC  I moved the tweets to more evan axis. as you can see i got them all mocked up and wraped one of them, i'm working as late as possible i'm hoping to get the second one wrapped, and get a coat of resin on them.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

That looks better, but I have to ask... are you using pantyhose to stretch that? Grab an old T-shirt and use that so when you soak it with resin it will at least support itself and allow you a framework to glass over. That see-through crap looks like a pain in the a3 to work with and won't be very dimensionally stable. 

Also it appears that you have glued through the pantyhose where the stretch meets the bottom edge of the midrange ring. If there is glue there then how will the resin adhere the pantyhose to the MDF? If that isn't glue then disregard, but you want a clean 'glass to MDF interface there.

Overall the shape that you have created is much better. Note how the base area flares AWAY from the back of the driver. This will help the speaker see more of the available airspace than the constrictive cup that you had previously. Once you stretch some heavier cloth in place of the pantyhose and wet it out with resin it will harden to a solid, thin structure. Apply some mat to help strengthen it, then cut out the relatively small hole in the pillar plastic to about 2x the size it is now. You want to wait till after you create the form up front or there won't be enough meat to hold it all together.

Finally, be sure that your new shape will fit into the dash hole before you glass it. Sucks to find out later that you made it 'too big' and have to cut it all up!

Looking MUCH better!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

thanks for checking it out. thats actualy spandex, i like the way it works better than cotton or fleece, I suppose that's just what i learned with, i did have another fabric i origonaly tried thati had laying around from a previouse project, their are some images of it in this thread, i have no idea where it went, but it was much harder to get the curves I wanted :\ at least with the origonal pod, i imagine it would work much better with this design, but i honestly have no idea where it went, i might of thrown it away  

you do bring up very good points with the glue on the ring though XD doh. perhaps i'll try rewrapping it with another fabric than, i really dont have time for this project right now to be honest  I'm quite booked solid with work, school, and i also have a extreamly sick turtle, and i've been trying to get him healthy and yeah..just life i suppose, it happens.

far as cutting that...that's going to be tricky to make a 2x sized hole, that things pretty slimsy as it is now, i'll have to make sure i get that baby meated up real good before i go pulling anything like that. that's final move if you ask me, i think that's the least of my concerns in the process right now


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

eviling said:


> i also have a extreamly sick turtle


Is that some sort of code? Lol. 'No,I can't tonight. I've got a really sick turtle.' Sorry, it's just one I hadn't heard before. 

Opening up the back happens laaaaaast. Don't sweat that now. If you feel comfortable working in that 'spandex', then go for it. Doesn't look like anything I'd want to try, though! 

Seems to me you are definitely headed in a more productive direction. Keep it up and it will reward your efforts, but take the time to do it as right as you can manage.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

no, i literly have a sick turtle, he's a childhood pet, they live quite awhile, and hes become ill lately  so i have to keep an eye on him, and give him special foods and meds and ****.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

looky what i found when i got home from work last night  










i havnt had much time, so the only thing ive had a chance to do is perform the video mod to unlock video while driving, and I got the 2nd pillar wraped with cloth, and the first one resined up. no pictures though, really not enough time  in fact its time for work! i'll get the deck in tommorw.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

why are you getting rid of the Sony that you loved so much?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Nah I liked it but ididn't love it I wanted the features the 130 had


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

finily had enough time to swap those decks out. and god DAMNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN is this pioneer fast, everything i was doing so fast, it takes awhile to boot but about 50% into boot it pulls an audio feed so it can play music, you cant do nothing till it fully boots, which is about 30% longer than the sony, but still worth it, i'm never in the car when it starts anyways. 

i got all of the perfirfierals ran here, HD radio modual you can see on the right  stock with the z130 if you didn't know. also got the new mic ran, and the ipod cable ran down my center console. 








this is a side by side, perosnaly i think the sony has a larger feel to it, it has maybe a 1\8" taller of a screen it feels like to me, but their pretty much exactly the same. 









i havn't had time to take anymore pictures, i'll get some up than along with a video of me playing around with it of course  sadly...i forgot the cd in the old deck ONCE AGAIN, every ****ing time i take a deck out i leave a cd in it, sadly this time it was the MS-8 tuning cd  so i'm going to have to get that out of their before i ship it out lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)




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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

my brother has the 110 and i love these. its just way out of my price range and i don't need the dvd/navigation quite yet. i don't go on long trips or watch movies while driving so.... good for you though


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, im really loving it, the z 1-3 has nothing on the 110-120-130, but the 130 is just simply an amazing deck, its not AS fast as it could be, it does lock up if you try to push to many things but its the festest fullf eatured double din ive ever used. it doesnt boot as fast as the sony, but it' plays the music 50% through its boot so its no big deal. 

I got the pods wraped, and i resined the 2nd one, and fiberglassed the first one.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright, its been awhile but i finily have progress to talk about. no pictures since it all looks the same, but i finily got them all fiberglassed, i'm going to get some bondo on before the end of the night, and maybe even some sand time in, tommorow i'll be sanding till my eye balls rot out than i'll finely be back to where i was XD lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

was kind of a rush job, i'ma fill it in a bit more tomorrow and sand the **** out of it and get them finished by the end of tomorrow.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

threw this together this morning, this is my setup, thought i would share it


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

mmm fun morning full of sanding, i have the driver side almost done, almost ready for final touch ups, i just finily got the curves right, probobly could of saved quite a bit of time had I used a better fabric that didn't have so much sag in it, well you live and you learn. fortunatly, the passenger side didn't have nearly as much sag and shaped much better so i won't have to spend as much time working out shapes. 


















2nd coat and 2nd sanding










several coats later...



















my initial coat was in standard bondo, i did the first touch up with short hair bondo because i like how it works, it works really well for structure too, so i felt it was a very good choice, i have almost a 1\4" of material at some points, especily the main slope off the mid, which i like because their will be no noise from it.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

the new work bench, much more room to work with ^_^ 









FINISHED!


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

That looks SO much better than the previous attempt! You should be proud of that result for certain. I think you will also find that it SOUNDS much better as well! If you are up to it, feel free to open up the pillar itself on the backside where the midrange lives. The new structure you have created hould provide ample strength to hold it all together, and if you desire you may wrap a bit of 'glass on the inside transition from the pillar plastic to the new 'glass structure. Be sure to stuff it with wool to help increase the apparent airspace and you will be set!

Awesome comeback, eviling!

You will also find it much more reasonable to finish if you decide to wrap it in vinyl or fabric of some headliner-matching variety. The organic shapes naturally lend themselves to a higher chance of success.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

nah, sticking with the flocking i think, my eye for detail has increased, i was able to catch EVER single molacule or dust or dent on the patching, i did 3 spot touch ups with the glazing putty, the image i think is of maybe the first touch up with it. 

I can't wait to hear them, i havn't even heard these mids and tweeters in so long i just wired em up to my system in my computer to hear them and man i think the angles i have aregonna work perfect, because the mids are a bit sharp, VERY acurate, but a bit harsh but with them being tilted just half off axis but not fully they sound (to me) very good. 

I picked up some of DAT's SQ cd's he had posted (i forget where he had them now lol) and man, just listening to them through my computer sound system they sound great, i can't wait to hear these songs through my car with everything setup, it's gonna be magic  i'm so super stoked to hear this system complete, you must remember i started this build off of my tax return money i got back in the begining of march, it's now mid may and i JUST finished one pod lol i can't say thats pod 100% though, i'm still on the fence if i'm gonna fill the one low, i think i might as well since i have all the dry time in the world anyways. it's just the ring needs to be uniform or i'm gonna be very angry XD i have a very atuned eye, i can see a 1\16" from 5 feet away, let alone 20 inches from my face.

oh and as far as the rear, yes i already headed your advice, and i will be cutting them open more, and i already have a bag of poly fill. 

oh and as far as streuctuirng it form the inside. lmao not needed, the one i finished is a 1\4" thick EASY :-s i tend to over do things, but thats what it came out to when i had the curves i liked. so it is what it is.

did you check out my diagram i made up? i'm gonna retain my rears with that mini DSP module, so that i can run the mids\tweeters off 1 set of outputs off the ms-8, and i'll still be able to tweak everything. i'm on the fence of the rears, i mean i could keep what i have but i think some 2 way comps in the rear would add a real sparkle to everything. i've ran 2 way comps in the rear in the past, i really think it makes a nice difference. 

lets throw it back to the past for a moment and show you my first custom job EVER. I still have this car actualy lol, and the rear deck is still there, sitll looks good but sunlight is REALLLY killing the fabric lol didn'[t think that one through.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

glad to see another monte owner gettin it on! givin me some ideas. right now im putting in a little deadener in at a time and painting a couple things flat black.

cant wait to see it finished! how are you mounting the sub? any trunk ideas yet?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I might drop it into the tire well, its a real easy chore because the bolt for the tire is barley welded on their, easy removal. but as of right now after i finish these pods i'm flat out of bondo, and resin's running a bit low, and i'm flat broke so we'll be taking a break sadly, the next item WILL be the mini DSP, which is a simple plug and chug upgrade  but it'll allow me to retain rears with a fully active 3 way front stage. the next upgrade after that of course is new rear speakers, i have some ideas but nothing i'm really set on yet, but i wanna try something 2 way i think, or at least coax so i have full range rears. 

in the mean time though i think i'll finaly get around to deadening my car, like you i should of deadend it when i did all my planning and wiring but i just got hasty wanted results ;( and i regret it every day when i hear a crackle or a creek >_<


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If you are out of bondo, and will eventually need to buy more filler, try Dynatron Dyna Delite or Rage Gold. Rage Gold is preferred, but is probably a little more expensive. It is SO much easier to work with than regular Bondo.

Jay


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> If you are out of bondo, and will eventually need to buy more filler, try Dynatron Dyna Delite or Rage Gold. Rage Gold is preferred, but is probably a little more expensive. It is SO much easier to work with than regular Bondo.
> 
> Jay


yeah, i heard of that stuff :surprised: ive been wanting to try it. i believe it was mentioned abit ago when i was talking about working with the short hairs bondo. 

i really like the short hair bondo, but it doesn't make for a good final finish, it still pits because its so hard to get into with a sander, and you realllllly have to do allot more fine sanding to get the scraches from the 100 grit paper out, took me about 15 mins of solid fine sanding to get that first pod to a perfect smooth, and thats with maybe only about 30% of the short hair bondo showing, it would take 3x as long if i used all short hair. i use 100 grit and than 600 grit sponges. i LOVVVVVVE sponges  they make my life so much better 


the only thing i dislike about these pods right now is the tweeter ring got pretty beat up in the fiberglass process, I wasn't careful enough with the ressin and it got into the inlay and i had to grind it out, and through all of the sanding it's taken a few hits  def would recommend a different aproach with these tweeters if i ever did it again. probobly make them a 1\4" larger all around, which would be 1\2" in total size bigger. i'm hoping i'll be able to patch things up and get them decent looking in the end, but at this point cutting them out to put new rings in would just make me cry.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

yeah. im almost out of the deadening that i have. ill be ordering 100 sq ft of edead on monday since that stuff is like 108 shipped for 100 sq ft.

as far as bondo goes, i keep hearing over and over to use ANYTHING EXCEPT the actual bondo brand. here in atlanta we have stuff that comes in a yellow can called dynalite or dynadelite or something like that.

today imma just take some pictures of equipment and what not.

also, i started a build log finally. link in sig.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

we must chat lol because i have no idea how to get the seats out, it seems like all the bolts are on the bottom of the car?! perhaps this weekend we could have a little phone conference to descuss this, perhaps give each other some help and advice. 

i NEED to get my rear seat out because i bent it while getting my rear deck out. but it's gonna be such a nightmare, i have all my gear mounted to my rear seat, and i'm talking 4 units. ms-8, 3 amps, and all the wires needed to run all of that, quite the headache indeed, and i also wanted to get all my carpet out like you did so i can deaden my floor boards.

I have like..40 sqf of some fatmat deadner, i will need more. but when i get money is when i'll do all of this because i'm flat broke, and i need to scownge up 100$ for a miniDSP so i can do what i wanna do, as well i'm tryingt to switch out of my ms-8 to a bitone, which is probobely gonna lead me to a very scary road :-s and one layen with lots of moneys since their so hard to get ahold of right now. 

anyways, i have some pictures, its rained out, so i coudln't do any sanding today..well i could but it's ****ing wet out their and i spent all day yesterday sanding in the rain. so i spent the morning cleaning up some wiring, changing out some RCA's (shorter RCA's) and zip tieing wires, also cleaned out my car  

I take allot of pictures, i hate looking at build logs where you don't see progress, or different angles, especily on finished products. i'm gonna have to primer these to get them preped and sealed for glue. not 100% needed but I feel it'll help me make sure i have no dinglebarrys laying about on it. 





































this side looks so naked...









coudln't help my self, i had to see how they looked with the drivers. and mmmm is it sexy ^_^ i need to get moving on making these rings too, i cut them, their floating around my shed somwhere but i might recut them, i don't think the ones i cut were tight enough, it depends on what fabric i use, i might just use the spandex i have.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Oh my GOD, the back seats. Spawned from the devil. If either of you two figure out how to actually remove them without using some sort of dark magic, share with me please. I need to deaden some stuff without breaking it, and the back seats are trolling my efforts enormously.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Yeah he has them off in his build log so I'm waiting for him to response to the thread


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

set backs  I was hoping to get these completly primered, sanded and ready for flocking by the end of tonight but it might take untill a little bit tommorow morning, i work night shfit tommorow so i have the day to work on it, but this set back is gonna set me back, what happened was the bottom edge along one of the long sides didn't have as good of a grip as i thought it did, and the shaking from sanding shook a hole 10" section looose, so my first step towrds repair is gluing it with some eboxy back down to the plastic, so i have it held in place for the next stage, which will be fiberglassing the inside. 

this of course means i will recainly have to reinforce the driver side as well  it didn't shake loose but, it could during final install or from wear and tear, it also means i wont be able to cut off as much as i thought i would be able to, but i'll work it out. 

anyways, driver side is pretty much done, i picked up some sandable primer today to help with the tiny lows, i didn't get the good stuff though, i got jipped, damn autozone didn't have the good stuff. but you make do with what you can get. I did a test spray on the top of the pillers, since they still need some more final sanding, i only did half of it.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

eviling said:


> set back is gonna set me back













Couldn't resist, sorry man :wiseguy:

Pillars are looking good though.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah idk i was annoyed lol

the epoxy worked really great, and it deid up super fast, the fiberglass is taking its sweet ass time though, it isn't very suny out, so tis drying on its own time. had a hell of a time getting anything in their to work with though >_< and it kept picking back up when i reached in with something else - lesson? work your way up from the back :-s dont start with the easy part lol


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Always leave the easy bits for last! More motivating, IMHO. Either way, it'll be done soon, so that's great news.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, and at this rate i might have em done in time for that meet in boltamore, i still don't have any confidence in the system but i would certainly love to have some feedback from some true audio guys.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

bravo....  much better on the pillars this time around. i can't believe you had the patience to do all that sanding... next time you do bondo/body filler, the less you rush the easier your sanding will be... 

good on ya


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well i did lots of mistakes, i didn't have it wrapped very well, the spandex sagged, so i had allot of lows, especially with the passenger side  it's pretty darn thick , it had a really large sag. 

but yeah, the sanding is actually quite calming once you turn your brain off and just do it lol, i found if you break the sanding stages up evening instead of working with just the machines 90% of the time, it's MUCH easier as well. so i do 1\3 with power sander, 1\3 hand, and 1\3 fine sanding. 

i didn't manage to finish them today, and i'm running out hardener for my bondo  so I have to finish the coats up with the last of it, but i have the driver side that just needs some more hand sanding and primer and final sanding.

i picked up some primer as seen in the images above, but it's just some cheap resutolium, i'm gonna pick up some thicker coat Dupont or Duplicolor.

i think the most important step is getting the wrap done right, otherwise you just ****ed your self all the way down the road. 

did i mention about the pulling off too?  did the same thing on the first one, an unprepared surface is just as bad as well. i'm also having allot of scrachs and scuffs and even a chip got knocked of the tweeter ring, have to work to be more careful about that, as thats the finish surface >_< but with primer, and maybe some wood putty i should be able to build it out and get it looking good.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

I don't know how you can do ALL that sanding, even including your previous pillars. That would drive me nuts. I thought it was annoying to sand off a square of bondo on my older monte, but doing pillars multiple times? You damn well better like them this time, don't know how you do it...


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

at first i hated it, but once i got the hang of it, it's very relaxing, i actualy like the hand sanding the most if you might believe that lol, I just put on one of the final coats on the passenger side, i had it pretty well done, but i still didn't fully like the shape, so i have a pretty heavy coat on it :\ but meh, it's all in the pursuit of perfection, i got everything fully covered now. i had a little peal away around the bend on the driver side pillar, a little sand away, and a quick coat and 3 mins of sanding and it'll be good as new, not a very large setback. 

what is getting me a little pissed right now is i can't find the rotery cutting pit for my dremel  so i had to do all the trimming with the sanding drum, which wasn't to hard, it's just annoying.

i'm gonna have it primered soon as i get this sanding done in a couple hours, than i'll post up some pictures before I head to work.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

sanding cramp


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

mmmm what i think will be the last bondo coat, before touch up 










the driver sides been done for awhile, but that damn corner just doesn't wanna work with me, this is the 3rd time ive tried to get it, i should have it this time. 

the passenger side is getting a small coat just to curve out some flats, and some lows, and than a final sanding, than touch up. 

oh, i also cut out the backs now that they have structure, after i primer them, i'll quickly get a coat of fiberglass to structure it even more on the inside, i might do that tommorow, but i'm def gonna get this primer on tonight. 










1 hour later : 









finily got one of them primered! this is the 3rd coat, the 3rd coat only went on the parts with bondo as did the 2nd, the first i just covered everything just because fingerprints and bondo were everywhere and it looks prettier this way 

















their should be plenty of volume for these puppsy to brieth, i think i'm sitll under 1 litter, but i think it should be enough, they only wanted like .8 anyways if i remember, even if they didn't the polyfill should make up for the difference.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Done yet


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

almost, gatta sand em up, fiberglass the inside, and flock em tommorow. i think its do'able.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Not if you keep typing on here :0 LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Think you will enter it this weekend or what? 
Could be worth it just for tips and pointers....


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, but its a couple more bucks to enter it, and i think you need to have some kind of certfications? idk nothing and i meran nothing about competing besides the classes lol and i dont even know them all. besides, sq and SPL


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

eviling said:


> yeah, but its a couple more bucks to enter it, and i think you need to have some kind of certfications? idk nothing and i meran nothing about competing besides the classes lol and i dont even know them all. besides, sq and SPL


Its been a VERY LONG TIME for me...I dont miss it or care to ever get back into it (nothing against it). I suppose there is a lot to be gained by being a spectator. You already have some contacts that are going to be there that are about as valuable as your ever going to get for info!!! Use them for the knowledge. I am sure several of them will more then likely be happy to listen and critique for you. Keep your eyes out for a guy on the forum (forget his screen name.....) His name is Josh and he is a GREAT guy!
He is entering for the first time as well. He has a hell of a car/system and is going for best overall I believe. He will be easy to find....He has a JBL GTI3000 amp in the trunk running a trio of gti10s and a mosconi 4channel! Maybe see if you can tag around with him a little to learn about the process. I will get his info and pm you.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Yeah, i mean ive thought about it, and ive put so much work into my ****, why not compete? i mean i could win moneys and buy even nicer stuffs  

tehe, man i'm at working looking at these pods and i just wanna work on them :'( I doub't i'll even go to bed when i get home in the morning, i'll probobly start working on em right away, looks like another sleepless day for me.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I'm gonna start by saying, i'm very disappointed in how the tweeter's are gonna look  the edges are very bad, everything else is beautiful, but the edges got torn asunder during the whole process, i should of really made these rings bigger  

this morning, after i got home from working 3rd shift, i started to prep these asap. 



















the flocking area  









one down! 










the finish looks great, i mean i was a little light in some spots, as you can see, but i'm not to worried about it, that spot is by the window  i don't see it.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

and now they are both coated.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Well Ray, they look great! Job well done. Glad to see you take the time to redo them, I think it was well worth the efforts! I dont know if you realize this or not, but your doing these pillars and then redoing them has created an excellent tutorial for those looking to do custom pillars! That is worth a great deal to this forum. Its a good lesson for what not to do as well as what to do. I know several people are going to ask this at some point so........ What product did you use for the flocking? and where did you get it?  It would come up at some point!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well, i was asked not to reveal sources, so i must respect the shops of this forum, as it is a huge cut in their pants, but i will tell you all this, it can be googled  

the product is a synthetic nylon suede, made by donjer. if you're a crafty one, you'll figuire that out pretty easily with out google. but i will not post a link  their is a rayon kit as well, it's a different material, more. glossy? i would say, it's don't think it's ideal for cars, more for home projects and such. 

the whole goal in my build was a very large tuturial, which is why their are so many images, as well as when i am done, i will gather the pictures, and load them into one very nice organized build log  i did a tutorial l on my door baffles, but i don't think they even got a single post. I don't think my tutorial will be a very good one, as it will have the details, but people follow images to easily and i'll likely end up leading sombody down the wrong road when they don't read a header to an image. for instance, they'll see me use spandex, than they may do that them selves. when in fact, fleece is a much more ideal product. 

their roasting in the sunr ight now, thank god its so nice out, it should get them decently hard enough to be stored before the weather front comes in, i'm just really being anal about touching them after they been flocked, it's very hard to repair, and next to impossible. the good news is they should be hard enough to install by show time, the bad news..i still don't have a solution for the tweeter ring issue...perhaps I'll figuire out how to cover it, but i don't want to leave it as is forever, it is gonna look horible, it's making cringe just thinking about it  perhaps some of the boys will give me some tips or tricks. 

I just made a prototype for the grill for the Mid's, i cut an asortment of rings back when i was making the rings so i would have something to play with to get something together, my idea is to not have it flush mount, but to have it mount so that it's bevled, and sitting out 1\4", wrap it with a black or gray cloth. i have some grey cloth laying around but I don't know how i'll like how that looks, i might want to just go all black. it'll be a frction cup, that pretty much slides in and is held in my friction, the edges will sit up agisnt the baffle edges of the pod, and around the outer ring of the speaker. idk if i'll put a pull tap on it, probably since it would be next to impossible to get out if i didn't.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

as the sun sets, so to does my work, i left them to bake in the sun for the day, their now in storage in my shed, i might put them back out if it gets really warm but i dont think it's supposed to. 

heres some images showing them a bit more, and you can see the ring prototype i'm working on, the fabric is streched quite taunt on that ring, and stapled around, it's nice, but i still want a bevel so i'll be remaking these, and gluing 2 rings together to make it taller so i can have it raised above the edge of my baffle. i'm still tossing ideas around for the tweeter, but i think my only option is a custom aluminum grill of some sort, i'm gonna have to ask around and see if i can find anybody around the forums who can do the work for me.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

started making the mid rings, i made 4 rings, and than i'll stack two together like i did for the baffled, and i'll cut the edges too, i had to use partical board because i was out of MDF but it should work. problem is i don't have a planing tool or any kind so idk how i'm gonna get the hight right :\ i need to figuire out how to get them so they stick out JUST enough. or I might just go back to a flush ring, we'll see how it works out.


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## thewatusi (Feb 1, 2011)

you're probably sweating your nuts off working outside today, eh?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

the understatement of the year >_< the rings didn't really work out either. but the pods are drying up nicley i should be able to install them tomorrow.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

I'm so jealous of all that work space you have. No fair man...


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> I'm so jealous of all that work space you have. No fair man...


i don't even know what you're talking about, i'm working out of a decent sized shed, and a tiny yard. :blush:


I coudln't sleep, so i decided to install one side since their pretty much cured up enough to handle at this point. 

this flocking stuff is amazing, even in the close up's with the flash, or even in full sunlight, imperfections are so well hidden. it looks simply amazing..i forget what color they used to be, but the black on the gray head liner feels wierd, so i think they were graysh werent they its been so long since ive seen them with out bondo and **** all over em i forget XD but it looks amazing. i'll get the drivers and the driver side installed when the sun is out, i just did this to pass the time, and get some glammer shots.


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

They really look Great Ray!!!!!!!!! job well done! NOW....how do they sound?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i'll let ya know in an hour, now that the suns out i'ma go get the other side in, and get the drivers in, wired, and tweak and play with the cross overs see what we're dealing with


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

eviling said:


> i don't even know what you're talking about, i'm working out of a decent sized shed, and a tiny yard.


I work on the top of a parking deck, and within the confines of one parking space. To me, you have your own continent to work in. 

The pillars look *really* good, sir! Job well done. Hopefully they sound as good as they look. god forbid you find an imperfection and go off doing this all over again!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> Hopefully they sound as good as they look.


DEAR GOD, it brout a tear to my eyes, initial tuning was set to 76 bottom end of my mid woofer, top of my sub, 420 top of my midwoofer to my mid's than 4250 to my tweeters, and GOOD LORD, it just sounded perfect, the tweeters compliment these mids so well, on the axis their on, theirs no harshnes or beaming, they just shine, the mids did sound a little twangy in my bench tests I did, which is why they aren't running solo, but sealed up, and crossed over properly with these tweeters, they sparkle, they really don't sound harsh at all, i can hear SOME of the missing lows in the mids, the L4's would of shined really well, but after 4 months of struggling, to plug it all in, turn it on and have it sound so close to perfect..just mmmm.

I crossed my sub over so low because ive just been fed up with the amount of bass it's been putting out, it's ported and with the ms-8, it's just such a ***** to tame if you cross it over like it should be, so i crossed it over at 76 hrz this time to lighten the load, and it still a bit loud back their but the L6's pick up the slack and everything sounds great. 

my initial reaction to the sound was a bit thrown back, the point of origin i'm used to is floor, so it took my ears a min to catch up, but that was pretty brief. 




















i'll have a video in a bit, but a mic isn't really gonna capture all the dynamics of the system but it's all i can offer for those of you who aren't going to the Baltimore meet


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HojGA4dHd78


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Niiiiiceee! Those look great! I'm hoping to get the finishing done on mine this weekend too! Where are the mids aiming at? (look like about at the dome light, or maybe right at the opposite listener?) Looks really good. I'm sure pics don't do them justice. If I can't wrap my pillars, I'm gonna try to flock also.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ecbmxer said:


> Niiiiiceee! Those look great! I'm hoping to get the finishing done on mine this weekend too! Where are the mids aiming at? (look like about at the dome light, or maybe right at the opposite listener?) Looks really good. I'm sure pics don't do them justice. If I can't wrap my pillars, I'm gonna try to flock also.


yeah, i just aimed them at each seat pretty much, but their slightly upward, the ms-8 takes care of any problems i might of had, but i don't think they'd sound bad with out it, their evenly placed, i felt aiming them at the driver was kind of selfish  passengers should enjoy your system, i also tune it for the 4 seats when it's all said and done i'll have it tuned for all 4 seats  

my next addition will be that DPS mini, than i'm gonna build a sealed sub box, and amp rack, but that migth be awhile, in fact the DSP mini might be awhile too because I don't have annnnnny money and its gonna run me exactly 160$ for the softwae, unit, and shipping. they come from hongkong, so its 25$ shipping


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY Ray! Glad to see it done and even better the results are to your liking! Hard work pays off 
The do look good! 
Congrats buddy! Have fun this weekend!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, i still think somethings a bit off on the system, i need to find a nicer spot to cross the sub off at, and tweak the gains so the pressence is proper, it's a little unproportional right now, as i can't even break 18 on the deck, as you saw in the video. if id o, my mid woofers are gonna explode.  i'll try and play with the gains tommorow and see what i can do, i'm thinking i might enter the system after all, idk tis like 20$ to enter i guess or something.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

I really wish I could hear your system Ray, especially with similar cars. Best of luck to you if you do decide to enter your Monte.

BTW, you're not still on MCF, are you?


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

wow. they turned out really sweet, ray. i knew it was going to be at least good, but damn, son. those look great!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yes, yes i am on their  but i can't tell you my identity or i'll blow my cover :O

i got some PM's asking for work though now that eveyrones seen my finished product i guess it left a good impression


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Oh you are? Damn it, now I have to be extra careful when I trash talk your car behind your back.


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

Nice! good job!

Subscribed!

.


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## Paul1217 (Aug 12, 2007)

I have to say that after following this for a while and seeing some pretty scary beginings that this looks like it has turned out very nicely.

It goes to show that if you actually listen to the constructive criticism on this forum instead of getting your feelings hurt how you can learn and improve your self. I remember reading you saying that your eye for detail was improving and that's good, thats what it's all about. If you listen to what people on here have to say, and I'm not talking directly to the OP but the forum as a whole, that it can help you notice what is lacking and how to make your system that much better. 

Again, nice job!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just takes patience, and prep work, its all about the prep work, i think somebody in this log said i them selves. but it really does, if you're not prepped properly, everything after will fall.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

before you all get a hard on, their were only 3 in my class :laugh: none the less, talking to all of those guys gave me tons of inspiration on directions to take everything and what I should be doing. one of the major issues i found were in my mid bass and low end was to over powering, my mid-bass was getting allot of complains because i pulled it really far back because i got a little scared when i heard the judges complaining about to much bass.










after seeing the alpine 701 in action, i think i'm gonna make the switch to the alpine PXA H800.

i was surprised at how few people were really running processoing, i saw somebody running the RF module, the 3sifty, and the 2 running 701's, and both systems with the 701's did incredible. I never heard the 3 sixty system, but im sure it was quite nice. the best image i heard was from the kia, josh had with that 1000$ pioneer single din deck, it's a wonderful deck.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

eviling said:


> before you all get a hard on, their were only 3 in my class



No mercy on yourself whatsoever, Ray.  I'm sure the H800 will make a world of a difference. That, and I'll be a little envious.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

eviling said:


> after seeing the alpine 701 in action, i think i'm gonna make the switch to the alpine PXA H800.


I'd slow your roll on the H800. Hit up and read the review thread; especially the last few pages. Great deals can be had on H700/701s while we wait for the H800 to get sorted out. There are a number of fantastic processors that can help the car out, but take the time to research what each can do for you before you get in and regret it.

Hard to read that score sheet, but a 7x score is a _darned_ respectable place to start! Beware, the scoring isn't linear so don't be depressed when scores don't leap into the 90s with the addition of processing power. Improve the car one point at a time and remember that you will be impressed with the car long before the judges will! Follow their advice, though, and you will be completely in love with the sound of your car before long.

Who was judging, BTW?

-Todd


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

highly said:


> Follow their advice, though, and you will be completely in love with the sound of your car before long.


Problem with that is it's never consistent


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

millerlyte said:


> Problem with that is it's never consistent


I've heard that argument before. I can't say that I have experienced the inconsistencies that it involves. The judges at the East Coast shows that I have attended scored my car within a point of my Oklahoma judge and three out of state judges. Do they all want precisely the same thing? Not exactly, but within reason (a point or two) they do. I think the differences are often down to judging style (half-point, quarter-point, or whole point) and what constitutes a given score for a given judge. Most judges tend to judge cars pretty close to each other, though we are all aware of times when that didn't happen. 

Either way, most cars do improve after following the judges advice.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Don't get me wrong, I'll never say don't listen to the judges. I'm simply saying to take it in stride with what you personally like and find a happy medium, namely on the components that are conflicting.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

millerlyte said:


> Don't get me wrong, I'll never say don't listen to the judges. I'm simply saying to take it in stride with what you personally like and find a happy medium, namely on the components that are conflicting.


I agree. In the end it's about what you like tempered by the opinions of people you trust.

Thank you, by the way, for not starting a Jihad over the judging/competition thing. It's happened more than once here and erupts all too easily. Anyway, thanks!

-t


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

I think you phrased it better. In the end, it's all about how it works for you. The ends justify the means. If you want to listen to every judge, and it works, by all means do it. Not how I would do it, but I'm certainly in no place to be an SQ nazi to anybody here.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> I'd slow your roll on the H800. Hit up and read the review thread; especially the last few pages. Great deals can be had on H700/701s while we wait for the H800 to get sorted out. There are a number of fantastic processors that can help the car out, but take the time to research what each can do for you before you get in and regret it.
> 
> Hard to read that score sheet, but a 7x score is a _darned_ respectable place to start! Beware, the scoring isn't linear so don't be depressed when scores don't leap into the 90s with the addition of processing power. Improve the car one point at a time and remember that you will be impressed with the car long before the judges will! Follow their advice, though, and you will be completely in love with the sound of your car before long.
> 
> ...


oh no i took no personal offence at all, i took it all in stride. In fact, i find it more of a bonus to my system for them not ot like it, because what they are listening for is a duplicate of their headphones they use as a reference, and I don't believe a system should be judged on it's ability to copy but it should sitrll have its builders personality tuned into it. 


yeah, i did some research on the bit one, 701, and 800, i read bikini's reveiew and the 800 has the least distortion of them all on the optic, their all pretty close, and your right, REQ even told me he got his controler and his even his processor for 300$ total  I even just saw a 701 on ebay for 430$ which still isn't bad at all. it'll be a bit till i can make the switch, if i can get ahold of some money i'll go with the 701 and keep my ms-8, just because its incredible flexible. 

all in all though, nobody had much bad to say about my system aside from my low's, i also find my over powering bass was hiding the fact that my mid bass and my mid's were being crossed over wrong, i feel with out a sub playing, the mid's just play to high and can't play to deep, so i'm gonna be trying them cut off in the 600-700 instead of 410, and see what we can do. 

also, I think for space and practical reasons, the first place holder to both contest was perosnaly my faverate system as well, was REQ's and he had an incredible bass blend, and he ran 2 IDmax 12's in IB and they just played beautifully, idk what mid bass he ran but he ran ID horns, and they really do some amazing things. sorry I didn't really write up a full reveiew olf the experience, just been busy. 


oh, and I finily got around to deadening my doors, and my mid bass sounds much cleaner now. 

the scores, I got a -5 deduction for rattles, he also didn't like my mid bass at all, as i pulled it back like a noob before the judging as I got nerviouse from all the bad reviews I was seeing everyone get on the sub overpowering, but i pulled it back to much, so i think i ghot a 3 on my mid bass out of 10 lol. I got a lower score on my linearity, like 5sh i think, and my total score with -5 deduction was 73.5, which isn't bad with out the rattles, 78.5 is nothing to be ashamed of at all, especily for NO tuning time aside from the dumb **** i did while at the show. some of the guys spent the past 2 days before the show tunning lol. i just threw my pods in and drove down and pushed play  so once i get these rattles out, get the sub in IB and try some things, maybe switch to a 701 or 800, i think i'll be doing more mid 80's for scores. 

I also got a lower score on the linearity of my system, it did well in the higher end, but across the board my bass was unbalanced compared to my system, so another big problem is i need to get my driver levels more balanced, i need to run an RTA (i think thats the right acronym) and get my gains tuned better, which is very impotent i think since I run so many different brands in my drivers. :blush:


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

MS-8s can be tricky. 
First and most important for the MS-8's bass management is getting the midbass and sub electrical polarity set correct. Make absolutely certain they are electrically in phase at the amp and speaker. +to+ and -to- or it won't be able to correct it. Mid- and sub-bass from an MS-8 should be tight and bordering on anemic and pretty strongly up front before you add EQ. If not, then electrical polarity is often the culprit.

During setup of the MS-8, after you select crossovers and map channels, you are presented with the opportunity to listen to the left, right, and sub with pink noise. Use this portion of setup to set your amplifier gains. Mark where they are now with a bit of tape by the gain pot, then adjust the gains by ear until the levels are very close to correct. Playing pink noise on your reference setup (home stereo, headphones, etc.) to get the sound of the pink noise as close as you can to correct using just the gains. Doing this will drastically alter the filters that the MS-8 uses to autotune the car with. Setting the gains properly here should spit out an autotune curve that very closely approximates what you are after. Post-autotune EQ adjustments should be minimal after this point.

Be sure to run the alignment CD through your headunit with all tone/balance/gain controls flat or defeated. This can also make a big difference!

Not saying you've done something wrong, but the MS-8 is very sensitive to gain mismatches and it will set the stage for some really unpleasant tuning results. The closer you get before the MS-8 magic happens, the better the result will be.

Give it a try and see what you think . You can always set them back where they were thanks to the aforementioned tape marks.

If you haven't spent any time with the judge's German Maestro 8.35d or 435s headphones, I highly recommend them. My 435s were the best car audio investment to date. Absolutely indispensable.


-Todd


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> MS-8s can be tricky.
> First and most important for the MS-8's bass management is getting the midbass and sub electrical polarity set correct. Make absolutely certain they are electrically in phase at the amp and speaker. +to+ and -to- or it won't be able to correct it. Mid- and sub-bass from an MS-8 should be tight and bordering on anemic and pretty strongly up front before you add EQ. If not, then electrical polarity is often the culprit.
> 
> During setup of the MS-8, after you select crossovers and map channels, you are presented with the opportunity to listen to the left, right, and sub with pink noise. Use this portion of setup to set your amplifier gains. Mark where they are now with a bit of tape by the gain pot, then adjust the gains by ear until the levels are very close to correct. Playing pink noise on your reference setup (home stereo, headphones, etc.) to get the sound of the pink noise as close as you can to correct using just the gains. Doing this will drastically alter the filters that the MS-8 uses to autotune the car with. Setting the gains properly here should spit out an autotune curve that very closely approximates what you are after. Post-autotune EQ adjustments should be minimal after this point.
> ...


that's some very good advice thank you.


the volume level cd you speak of, does not work iwht my 130, i do not know why but i was told it is not needed with high level inputs from RCA's :surprised:so I don't know. but it does not pick up a signal from the deck for some reason, its either noisy or no signal, ive never had that with any other deck, idk it could be the ms-8 finily coming down with a problem, one that ive heard from so many people, i thinjk i heard maybe 3 or 4 people bitching about the ms-8 at the show, and a couple who had several of them, and howard even said he had one blow some of his speakers on him.

oh, i forgot to say who were the judges, i do not know who they were, they were some old timers, the one had a tiny red acura that he won 2 or 3 world champion ship SQ comps with, and idk what the other had. but I was parked to the little red acura, but he didnt have the gear in it so i didnt get to hear it  i heard amazing things about it though. i do not know their names, bu chef does for sure if you really wanna know he can tell you since he set up the meet. 

as far as the headphones..im really only doing the meet thing because they were near but i really don't plan on competing professorially, so idk about all that. I dont have the time to make meets, and i don't think I would ever fear in nationals anyways.


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

eviling said:


> that's some very good advice thank you.
> 
> 
> the volume level cd you speak of, does not work iwht my 130, i do not know why but i was told it is not needed with high level inputs from RCA's :surprised:so I don't know. but it does not pick up a signal from the deck for some reason, its either noisy or no signal, ive never had that with any other deck, idk it could be the ms-8 finily coming down with a problem, one that ive heard from so many people, i thinjk i heard maybe 3 or 4 people bitching about the ms-8 at the show, and a couple who had several of them, and howard even said he had one blow some of his speakers on him.
> ...


The score you had was very good stong mid-bass high out of car on dash is very hard to achieve you should be happy with those scores. Don't do like I did last year in my final x3 of the season for me before world finals one judge gave me a 67 while the other 2 judges were in the low 80's he said my center was far left other 2 judges gave me perfect scores for center image. I began questioning my own hearing to me it was ever so slightly off but everyone who listened to it claimed it was dead on,except that judge of course. Well i decided not to go to world finals because of that one score. what a mistake a really good guy with a great sounding car won my class i had beaten two times earlier in the year. don't let things get you down judging is a very subjective thing just work on the faults they find and don't even be surprised if some of your up-coming scores are even lower then the one you just got. By the way Tom was one of the judges who gave me a 83 all judges gave me a 9 or 9.5 on mid bass.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah. how many shows do i need to make nationals anyways? i understand it of course depends on your points earned. but how exactly does it work?


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Wow, that's cool! I've never been to an SQL comp, but there's one near me next week I might try to check out. I'm with you on the H700 or H800. I have the H100 and it's nice to hook everything up with one cable and really short RCAs, but it doesn't have any processing power compared to the 700/800. What was the issue I remember hearing about a zipper noise with the 701?

Also, I placed an order with donjer for some black flocking! I need to get crazy on my pillars with a dremel and some bondo first to improve the shape in some spots.  Any advice on applying the flocking? I figure just clean the surface really well, try to keep the adhesive even, apply way more flocking than I think I need, and let it dry for a long time before handling.


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

eviling said:


> yeah. how many shows do i need to make nationals anyways? i understand it of course depends on your points earned. but how exactly does it work?


Mecca members with 40 points or more will get a invite to finals you can go to web site for all rules sorry i can't seem to link today for some reason. Sounds like to me what you need most is like another 50sq ft or so dyna-mat in your doors for a start also try bringing down 60hz on eq some. Go to the friday night show in Washington Pa. Zenner is a world finals judge he can tell by ear where your hots are and need tweeked back some.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Hey, I was planning on going to that show in Washington, PA. Never been to one before. Small world. Would be cool to meet some people from DIYMA.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ecbmxer said:


> Hey, I was planning on going to that show in Washington, PA. Never been to one before. Small world. Would be cool to meet some people from DIYMA.


Washington is further from me than boltamore PA is, more than twice as far:blush: dont forget, PA is pretty large.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

wow, i never knew what a difference the cross overs would make, i started high and i crossed over the mid woofer to mids, at 810, and cut more highs out of the mids and went deeper intot he tweeters just to see how low they would play with out adding to much harshness to the music, i also did some of the gain tweaking with the white noise like you said, it's pretty hard to do it with out a reference, and with the way the tweeters beam it's kind of hard to really catch a good gain reading off them with out an RTA in the driver see to get some readings to see what will be the most level. an RTA would also help me choose better cross over points too I assume. so i guess that might be my next move before i go changing my sub to IB and all the sort. somebody at the show said a mic's probably gonna run me 110-180$ and the softwares gonna run 50-80$, still seems like a worthwhile investment.

the lows are more forwarde, but sitll at the drivers ear and not on the stage, but much further up, and the mid bass cuts very nicley, the gains were a little high on the mid woofer so the the lows were a bit loud, but i think i can tweak that a bit. it's to ****ing hot right now though, i only had about 3 tunings in me before my shirt was soaked in sweat, can't tune the ms-8 with the fan on XD just adds noise to the ambiance during tuning XD Had i had this kind of tuning time before the show I would of been much better off in the end. i guess i'll find out come july how what ive learned effects my scores. gonna take many more hours of playing i think till i learn more about this system.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

With the MS-8 autotune, there is no real need for an RTA. If the MS-8 isn't fixing the response, then the problem is install related. If the install is sound and the amp gains are reasonably adjusted then the end result of an autotune should be very close to an ideal starting point.

The statement "the lows are more forwarde, but sitll at the drivers ear and not on the stage" leads me to believe that the midbass is turning your door skin into a passive radiator. With the midbass playing, put your hand on the door panel. If you feel it moving, it is adding sound to the system response. The midbass will never appear 'in the stage' as long as this is the case. The MS-8 cannot fix that. Until that door panel doesn't vibrate while your system plays your midbass will sound boomy and bloated. In my opinion that should be your next stop and the place to spend your time/money. Midbass in the doors is tough and goes well beyond just stopping the rattles; you have to stop the DOOR from becoming a speaker. This is why you've read 'once you go floor you'll never go door'. Doors are a lot of work. Not sure? Here's an experiment. Set up as a two-way as an experiment. Cross your sub from 20-300, midrange 300-6000, and tweeters from 6k up. Skip the midbass config and map your outputs. Set levels, then sweep. 

Tweeters beaming? You should have the MS-8 volume turned down to -45 to -40dB. Way down. Speaking volume or quieter. You are looking for an audible balance, and a balance is best heard with the system turned down a bit. If the volume is so loud that your hair is flapping behind you from the wave coming off the speakers, it's too loud to make that judgement.

For crossover points, with your speakers located as high as they are try crossing at 400-600 from midbass to midrange and 4500-5500 from midrange to tweeter. Normally you would want to go as low as reasonable with the midrange as the human voice extends to about 200Hz. You want to try to keep as much of the voice as possible in the same speaker normally, but the MS-8 can do a lot of magic in that area. Don't go too low with the tweeter or they can go poof. Crossing the sub in the 60-80Hz range tends to work well with the MS-8.


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

highly said:


> With the MS-8 autotune, there is no real need for an RTA. If the MS-8 isn't fixing the response, then the problem is install related. If the install is sound and the amp gains are reasonably adjusted then the end result of an autotune should be very close to an ideal starting point.
> 
> The statement "the lows are more forwarde, but sitll at the drivers ear and not on the stage" leads me to believe that the midbass is turning your door skin into a passive radiator. With the midbass playing, put your hand on the door panel. If you feel it moving, it is adding sound to the system response. The midbass will never appear 'in the stage' as long as this is the case. The MS-8 cannot fix that. Until that door panel doesn't vibrate while your system plays your midbass will sound boomy and bloated. In my opinion that should be your next stop and the place to spend your time/money. Midbass in the doors is tough and goes well beyond just stopping the rattles; you have to stop the DOOR from becoming a speaker. This is why you've read 'once you go floor you'll never go door'. Doors are a lot of work. Not sure? Here's an experiment. Set up as a two-way as an experiment. Cross your sub from 20-300, midrange 300-6000, and tweeters from 6k up. Skip the midbass config and map your outputs. Set levels, then sweep.
> 
> ...


Read and reread this it's important.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> The statement "the lows are more forwarde, but sitll at the drivers ear and not on the stage" leads me to believe that the midbass is turning your door skin into a passive radiator. With the midbass playing, put your hand on the door panel. If you feel it moving, it is adding sound to the system response. The midbass will never appear 'in the stage' as long as this is the case. The MS-8 cannot fix that. Until that door panel doesn't vibrate while your system plays your midbass will sound boomy and bloated. In my opinion that should be your next stop and the place to spend your time/money. Midbass in the doors is tough and goes well beyond just stopping the rattles


it's funny you bring this to my attention, because I came to this same conclusion on my own..well some what, i had them slightly deadened and more sealed yesterday, i know mid woofers never wanna be completely sealed but i also understand allot of people seem to still seal door panels, so i went with the trend. 

Ive only moderately deadened them and I noticed EXACTLY what you're saying right now, that the drivers sound cleaner, but the door, more specifically the backside or outer skin has become a chamber and was giving me an odd feedback that i was hearing, so you telling me this confirms my thoughts. i'm already in the planning for more deadening, i was gonna pick up some vinyl foam lick and stick stuff form parts express or something of the sorts I think, as well as spraying the inner door panel with some quiet kote. I think that on top of the deadening *(fatmat) i already have on the doors should take care of this. 

How do you think these really work, ive only seen one build log in here with them that i can think of off hand. and i saw a comment about their results being mediocre at best, but ive not heard any real confirmation on that, but with some quiet kote, deadening, and deadening foam, would all of that with that on top do it? or am I just thinking to extreme? should i be more conservative with my thoughts. 
Deflex 7" Power Pad Pair

i've never heard that expression though, interesting. and I believe i experienced a bit of it when i heard joshes car (deadlifter) he has some JBL GTI 2 way in kicks and the mid bass and highs were incredible, and the mis bass was super clean (the judge told him he coudln't hear detail...idk what he was talking about) perhaps age took a part in that judges opinion, but i do not wanna do kick pannels, i'm trying to avoid them. 

for crossing over, yeah i hear you, and i understand your logic, the 10f's just really don't do well in that area is the problem, they can do the vocals fine, incredible almost, but if any instrument is in that range it's just lacking, completely which is why ive been taking it up. 

i'll keep in mind about the tweeter, i just wanted to see how they sounded cutting deeper, i really had no problems with where they were, i believe i had them at 5250. 

the best balance i've found with my sub is about 78 I think, the L6's do a pretty decent mid bass, though with the volumes at different levels depending on how i set gains i get different results and sometimes the L6 can't phiscly keep up.




highly said:


> Tweeters beaming? You should have the MS-8 volume turned down to -45 to -40dB. Way down. Speaking volume or quieter. You are looking for an audible balance, and a balance is best heard with the system turned down a bit. If the volume is so loud that your hair is flapping behind you from the wave coming off the speakers, it's too loud to make that judgement.
> 
> For crossover points, with your speakers located as high as they are try crossing at 400-600 from midbass to midrange and 4500-5500 from midrange to tweeter. Normally you would want to go as low as reasonable with the midrange as the human voice extends to about 200Hz. You want to try to keep as much of the voice as possible in the same speaker normally, but the MS-8 can do a lot of magic in that area. Don't go too low with the tweeter or they can go poof. Crossing the sub in the 60-80Hz range tends to work well with the MS-8.


this part you some what lost me, the beaming from these speakers it pretty inescapable as they are radial dome...so the front of the car, naturaly has a much different high end than when im sitting in the back playing with gains, that was all i was speaking of, but if you could cleafy exactly what you mean here, i'm a bit lost.


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

Agree with Highly completely another thing you may need to do after 2 layers of mat on every covered surface on door inside and out and plastics on door panel line inside of door with egg-crate foam behind mid bass driver to help cancel some of rear wave. I'm old school and don't really believe in any digital processing but once you get everything as good as you can a little TA can make it better. You really do need to x your mid mid-bass as low as possible or male voices can draw image down TA can help this but better to get it as good as you can first. you must have been writing same time i was lol


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

A really good song for mid-bass I use is Concrete Blond Vampire Song The kick drum should be dead center high and seem like it is coming from beyond the glass and so strong it punchs you in the chest each time it hits. The bass guitar should be real strong and so detailed you can hear every pluck on guitar individually.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

I recommend you read the threads (there are many) in the install section discussing deadening the doors. You can spend a ton of money on products that don't do the job if you don't understand what needs to happen to correct the problem. Foremost is that there is more than one problem going on, and each problem requires a specific solution.

Forget about little foams and sprays. May as well hit them with hairspray and paper mache'. 

What are the noisiest parts of your car? Wheel wells and firewall. What did the OE use to solve the problem? They put a little bit of mass and a lot of barrier. Is the problem gone or just reduced? Not gone; you can still hear the engine and the tires. But it's better than driving with no carpet or carpet pad by a LONG shot. 

With the midbass playing, put your hands on the door. Move them around. Feel the areas that are the biggest problem, and add mass there. Play slow sweeps through the midbass and standup bass tracks that move around a lot. You will find some areas go absolutely nuts and others barely move. Add mass where it goes nuts, then cover the entire thing with a barrier. A great flexible low cost barrier is jute carpet padding. When you think about the thin little foams and 'lick and stick' after feeling the vibrations in your doors you will understand why they will have zero effect on the problem. They are for plastic-to-plastic rubbing and squeaks, not mass, barrier, or absorption.

Don't be fooled. Those L6s will happily rock along at very, very high volume levels covering your midbass (70s to 500s) pushed by hundreds of watts with no noise or complaints. If you hear complaints, something is very wrong. I use a pair a few degrees off axis in my dash as midranges. Freaking phenomenal experience.

Detail in the midbass below a few hundred hertz happens in the midange and the low treble. See: HERE

Research, try, and think your way through the door problem. It isn't a simple one and requires a fundamental understanding to conquer. Many never do. You happen to be at one of the few places on the planet with the required knowledge all in one place, only a search away. That's what brought me to DIYMA and it's why I stay.

If your gains are in your trunk you need a buddy with a screwdriver. You need to be in the seat listening or you're launching spitballs at 747s.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

with the deadening i did to the panels, their really isn't much vibrating in the panel. i think my problem is my door has some resonance in some frequency's, i think the egg crait foam would be a great idea and would really bring the mid bass home. 

i been playing aith it for awhile not, and i find it does varry but the tuning is right, it's pulling the bass up front, just on that certain frequencys where it has the resonence with the door panel things tend to stand far back, and when the bass is heavy it pulls it really far back, but i havn't gotten into the trunk with any deadening yet, to come this weekend. 

thanks for all your help though highly, youve been a real asset to my build  wish you could come out and listen it to sometime, it's a pretty good sound system and i think once i get everything tweaked it's gonna sound great. right now it has one of the best high ends ive ever heard out of a system, anything accoustic is just amazingggggg, these mids and tweets shine on vocaly heavy music, but some metal can be a little sketchy. especially if it's a low quality input.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ok, i got a couple ideas spinning. 

first, I think we might drop the rears idea and drop my GTI's in my rear deck instead of IB agsint the back seat, i'd have FULL porting into the cabin, would take some modding and a new rear deck, might put me in a new class too if i keep competing :\

thoughts. 

also, center, i spoke with some guys and they say matching drivers is very important, so should i make a setup with the SB tweets and 10F mids, i'd probobly just aim em sright up, since the tweets sound so great off axis, i would probobly angle the mid a bit. this a good idea? i would think a larger center would be better but i dont wanna missmatch and end up with some bad mixing but i don't want a weak center.

but my thoughts are really...centers more of an addition, it doesn't need to much stength, when i heard it with my l4's it really wasn't that great, it sounded better but not a great deal.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

dug into my rear deck today to pull out the 6x9's since i'm not using them and decided not to use them. 



















replaced the old grills, they were sunburned and just cracked so easily, and the passenger side had a huge crack accross it.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

:-\ i am finding my L6's and SB tweeters to be just as good sounding if not better sounding than the 3 way with the scanspeak. 

perhaps i should run some 8"'s as mid woofers and the L6's as mids out of the door and tsome 8"s in some kick panels O_O


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

I cracked my rear deck grille too. But that's because I accidentally sat on it... not that I need them though. Only problem with taking out those drivers is now you have a whole new WORLD to deaden. Good luck with that bro. 

Ray, just out of curiosity, when you first dug into your rear deck, were the speakers only clipped down and nobody bothered to utilize the screw holes for them, or was that just mine?


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

eviling said:


> :-\ i am finding my L6's and SB tweeters to be just as good sounding if not better sounding than the 3 way with the scanspeak.
> 
> perhaps i should run some 8"'s as mid woofers and the L6's as mids out of the door and tsome 8"s in some kick panels O_O


What's exactly better? Lower midrange? Transition from mid to tweet? Width?

Kelvin


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

subwoofery said:


> What's exactly better? Lower midrange? Transition from mid to tweet? Width?
> 
> Kelvin


the mid range has volume to it, it's likely just that the L6's are in their own league as far as sound, but theirs just surrisenly more pressence with the L6's running in the mid range in 2 way setup i only did it because i was curiouse. i have been running the L6's full range for months now while i was working on the pods, so i was well aware of their abilitys. plus highly's been taling about how he uses his for mids, so figuired what the hell. but thank god i put all that work into those baffles, because they sound great on that angle their on  so if i did wanna do the 8"s in the kick it woudln't require more work than the kicks...and of course new pods, but i'm gonna be picking up spare pillers anyways, i can work something out. 


no they don't use those screw holes for what ever reason, really to our benefit really they'd suck to unscrew. 

and yes, a wholllllllllllle new world, the deadening i did to the rear deck did almost nothing, i also padded the top side of the deck with some small peices as some "Watter breaks" but i dont really think the material they use has much resonence, i think my biggest problem is the friction of where that peice touches anything, but since it's padded it really doesn't probably do anything. 

the J panels next to the rear seats is where i believe allot of my noise is coming from, the lows really like to travel into those little caverns, as i understand theirs next to nothing in their, i'm considering even puting my amps up in their.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Why in the hell make those screw holes if they aren't gonna use em. I should know better by now not to question the construction of these cars, I guess. 

What do you mean it did almost nothing? How much deadener did you put on there? I'm about to go to town with some mat and my rear deck but I don't want to use more than a layer and some if that won't even do much.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> Why in the hell make those screw holes if they aren't gonna use em. I should know better by now not to question the construction of these cars, I guess.
> 
> What do you mean it did almost nothing? How much deadener did you put on there? I'm about to go to town with some mat and my rear deck but I don't want to use more than a layer and some if that won't even do much.


their generic brackets for GM cars, they must not of felt the need in the monte.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

After listening to it with the 2 way with the )6 doing mid lows and miss and tweets doing 5250 and up I found it really lacked the depth that I could get with the 3 way. My thoughts are since the l6 is doing two jobs its kind hurting it but the hybrids are knowen for having a kind of dull top end which OS why not many like the l4 s with out the tweets. But either way I look at it I end up like the 3 way over all more. M gonna play with some more cross over points and see. I'm trying to see how deep into these 10F's I can dig I'm playing at 200 right now well see how they do I've never played em below 400


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

.



















new toys  we'll see if they end up in the car, yet to be seen, but incredible little amps


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

made some progress in the tuning of the ms-8, was tipped that if i turned my gains up while calbrating, the ms-8 woudln't compensate so much and if i tuned them down after they would be tame. seems to of worked for my sub, turned it to about just over half, calbriated, and turned to 0, and the bass is so clean. i also crossed my mids over higher again, as i was finding allot of vibrations for one, and i heard allot of odd noises (likley some sort of distortions)

i can be happy with some music, most in fact. but i think i'm encroaching the max product of my setup, but I am still hear allot of emptryness in the mid's. and the mid bass can be a little lacking, i think i need work on deadening and remount them in new baffles ot get them sounding better. 

the mid's are INCREDIBLE with vocals, and with the SB's taking off the top end, they work beautifuly together. but i'm thinking about switching up to maybe some Revelator 12M scanspeak's or some 12MU.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

update : false floor coming soon, as well the switch out of those amps, and in the future a complete switch to massive audio is possible. as well as dual GTI's in my rear deck in IB to come soon.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well, i got the wood...lets see when i get the modivation to tear down all of those amps and do all that wiring :-s i'm also gonna rebuild my door speaker baffles so they aren't touching the door panel, i'm getting noise from them  that i'll have done before i go to the meet sunday in MD hopefully.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

did you decouple your baffles from the door? i forget.

i ask, since im sorta quasi working on my baffles. im waiting for my order of raamat and ensolite to finish up my doors.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

well look like my tires are gonna run me rougly 460$ so its new tires or new mids :-s and i only have MAYBE another 2 months out of my tires. the side job i'm doing in 2 weeks is gonna cover the cost of the tires..don't know when i;ll have the cash for the mids. but we'll move on. i wont be doing the false floor for the next 2 weeks as i'm doing some comps, on the 17th in MD, and on the 24th in pottsville, pa. 



blueatlanta said:


> did you decouple your baffles from the door? i forget.
> 
> i ask, since im sorta quasi working on my baffles. im waiting for my order of raamat and ensolite to finish up my doors.


not entirley sure what your asking? i just flush mounted them like yours, except you use 1\4" MDF and 1\2" rings, im doing 1\2" mdf with 3\4" rings. i'm gonna rabbit bit them into the 3\3" rings though, and the 3\4" ring will be recessed into the mouting bracket as well. I

just cleaned things up first thing this morning since im going to that show. apperently my amp came unmounted from the one corner as you can see in the picture  took care of that, vacumed, cleaned up and emptry the of all my crap. 










thats right! i use my trunk 









first time this thing has been out in a longggggggg time. kind of a pain to lift a 130 lb box out of a trunk


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

you can see my amp came loose :X shh


















and than this happens  and yes, thats a carbide bit O_O only done maybe 30 cuts with it too, and that was the VERY first cut of the day and it broke 1\4 way around.  took it to sears and demanded a replacment (craftsman) and got the manager to get me a new bit.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

whoa, what an exausting day. i didnt mind working on my car when it was 40 out, but 90 degrees >_< ****s for the birds. I got everything all cleaned up, finished the baffles. i didn't do what i had planned, to much excesss with rings, so i just cut a hole into the baffle and mounted the speaker. worked fine on the driver side. passenger side...erm we had some clearence issues for some reason. 

fixed that by picking up a 1\2" rabbit bit, still isn't big enough for the 3\4" flange on the L6's but it gave the edge more meat than the 1\4" rabbit bit i had. I simply cut the whole larger and rabbited it from their. its win win really, gives the cone more breathing air all around 

driver side









origonal passenger side, blue was asking how i mounted them. this is how. you can see how i did it maybe half way through this thread? 









the new pasenger side baffles, recessed. 









this is what was hitting the cone








problem solved  









once all that was done, i FINILY got around to making some speaker grills. still don't like em, but i like em better than how they were. feels strang, i had already gotten used to them being open. but poor SQ design on my part, as i'm tunneling the **** out of the mids now, but meh, i honestly don't hear the difference my self. probobly gonna pick up some black cloth and rewrap them, i thought the contrast would be nice, but meh. it's kind of bumming me out. 


















.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

yeah. i meant put something in between the mdf and door like ensolite or something to seal the gap, but also negate vibration. did you seal your mdf baffles this time? they look like mdf without anything on them?

also, i cut that plastic off my door panels too.

i like your new grills, i think they would look better in that darker gray, but the two-tone look has always been a fav of mine.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, they dont take a whole lot of time to make, i might try different things, i got the pasenger side made right but the driver side one came out a little loose some how? :-s I did attempt to remake them but i got tired and they kept breaking and stupid ****. lol 

I sealed them by wraping the edges like you see. thats about it, it works fine. they sound MUCH better. i liked the angles but they really only benefited when i ran 2 way or full range out of the L6's. althought I do hear some distortions in the L6's them selves when i really put my ear up to em. I think if i went with the SE's i would sound better, but they will have less distortion when i play less out of them, their playing much more now because my mids can't play very low, so their up to 420hz.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

you know what, yeah i did have a barrior between the old ones. i had the fatmat on the back of it. so i suppose that would count as a barrior. i would of put it on the new ones but i was flat out  i had to use the last of it just to seal the edges.


from the meet yesterday, far as that goes..didn't turn out to swell for me, ended up blowing my driver side mid  and i scored very poorly because of it, and obviously not enough prep time. and i still havn't gotten done what i wanted to get done, i plan on moving the single sub into an IB possition this weekend since i wont be competing sunday due to the blown mid, i'll just work on it saturday and take a walk around the meet sunday.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ALRIGHT, after talking to many people, hearing many different things, ms-8 setups, (mine of course in the mix) 701's, 3sixty.2's, deck processing, old school. I've really come to like the 701, but it's so dated now i'm afraid to dive into a dated tech that'll have no support. the 800 has been having issues, and isn't as liked. but from what i'm reading on the 3sixty.3 i'm really liking what i'm seeing, it's like the ms-8 had sex with the 701 and this was it's offspring. I really like that they give you guide curves to use, auto tune, and custom tune, as well a hybrid tune where you use both tools, both custom and auto to do your tuning. a real time RTA tool which sounds really nice, who knows how good it'll be? it's also up gradable for Bluetooth witless access plus music feed wireless. not that i need that but being able to witlessly work it sounds nice  plus no messy wires to be ran, or any modules to hide or mount. sadly though, the prospects are bleak on it's release. it's slated to April of 2012 now, but that's obviously a worst case kinda thing to me. 

far as those L3se's. still on the hunt! i am gonna hit scott up again. i was talking to another member about some a bit ago, i MIGHT work that out with him. but right now, prioritys are in getting the false floor in, deadening things up, and taking my gti IB. for now, i'm gonna try it with the single GTI and hope it's enough oomph for my liking, i mean it should at least cut it for temp. i'll have to build the box to be up gradable, it's gonna be a sub deck to my rear deck, i'm thinking maybe 2-3"s down, enough room for the excursion of the sub, i'll cut out the metal to make a larger port in the rear deck, and deaden things up more. as of right now, i have all the lumber, the fabric, and even a **** ton of 2x4"s i picked off a job a few weeks back, nice never used clean stuff  the perks of working construction  

the baffles worked pretty nice, the passenger side is very nice. the driver side, not so much. some reason it's sitting against the baffle and it's resonating with the driver in the 200-400 hz range it feels. def no good. so gonna take care of that in the coming weeks. gonna start working on the sub-deck before i do the false floor i think, because well my box doesn't fit in my trunk with a false floor XD so the egg must be layed first.

oh, and I picked up some things from a friend over at montecarlforums.com, picked up a new dash peice, as i burned mine with a cleaner and had paint pealing  I also picked up extra set of A piller trim, and kick trims  as well a new passenger side switch for my window, i broke mine  but picked that all for 165$ shipped. and it's like 90$ shipping  but hey, not easy to come across these parts now-a-days.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)




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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

dash peices on their way. 

i took some time to draft up some changes that will be coming. i think ive decided on a few things after going to a few shows, hearing things and different setups and talking to many people. kick panels is what i'll be going with, i'll have to get an electronic parking brake in so i can get the kicks right. 

changes to come *soon*

massive audio NX2's (two of them, i already have them sitting in my closet  )

hybrid L4se's in kick panels

hybrid L1R2's in A pillar. 

false floor to acamidate all the amps and processor. 

second JBL GTI in rear deck in IB. 

changes to come *long term*

Rocket Fosgate 3sixtry.3 will be added in place of the ms-8 as soon as it comes out and is proven fault free, or an H800, depending on if they work out the bugs. 









i have the wood to do the false floor, the amps, the wood to do the box on the rear deck to mount the current GTI. I will be picking up the L4se's soon enough. i'll have to wait on the R2's though, those might take a bit of time, but thats and the GTI are the only upgrade i cant afford in the plan-able future. but we'll work it out  might not even get the second GTI we'll see how the single works out. 

i'll also be doing some seriouse sound deadening in the near future to finely tidey things up. been having many noise issues. hopefully i'll have something ready by september for the allentown PA state finals tripple point show. but really, i'm in it for the fun of it  I'm not a very competitive person.


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

eviling said:


> hybrid L4se's in kick panels
> 
> hybrid L1R2's in A pillar.
> 
> i'll also be doing some seriouse sound deadening in the near future to finely tidey things up. been having many noise issues.


*That is very clever!*

Nice install!

.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

so this might be a hinder on things  



















gonna be 100$ just for the headlamp 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000...Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1104wt_1165 

plus it looks like i need some small body work on the corner panel, and the bumper might be a crap shoot for a complete replacement.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

what happened? did you back into someone or did they clip you?


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Could be worse 
But still sucks!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, i backed into a flat bed trailer. picked a fight with it, and lost lol but what are you gonna do ***** and moan about it. i know a couple guys who knows a couple guys  but josh has also jumped in the wagon and offer his help. he has a friend who he's gonna have take a look at the damages and give me a quote, and my machanic is gonna talk to his buddy. but idk about that buddy, he's been trying to get ahold of him for weeks, he was supposed to be getting contact with another guy about my alarm. you know hot i goes. lol everybodys a friend of a friend 


what the hell did you do rex?


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

eviling said:


> what the hell did you do rex?


Driving home Thursday on a major highway (in over 100deg heat) my truck lost electrical/brakes.... I pulled over, turned off the ignition, and within seconds I was diving out of my truck as it was becoming covered in flames


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

rexroadj said:


> Driving home Thursday on a major highway (in over 100deg heat) my truck lost electrical/brakes.... I pulled over, turned off the ignition, and within seconds I was diving out of my truck as it was becoming covered in flames


holy ****, your car just up and committed suicide


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Yup! and about 8k in audio with it  If I was smart I would have just stayed in the damn thing!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

rexroadj said:


> Yup! and about 8k in audio with it  If I was smart I would have just stayed in the damn thing!


you had your insurance company keep up with your equipment:surprised: didn't you?


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Working on it! They were trying to say that the claim should go to my home policy and that if I filed it they would drop my coverege next renual period???? I asked to see where my policy said it would cover aftermarket stereo equipment in black and white and they failed to show it so when I said the really have to because every ounce of it was "mounted" to the truck then the need to own up (not my first rodeo. Sending over my list of items in the AM. Its about 8k retail but I have got most all of my stuff via company direct or through my accomodations so the $$$ is WAY less then 8K! I am just saying that I dont have all the receipts so they should base everything off retail. I did this way back when my system was jacked years ago and it worked out way better. 
I should find out tomorow? They really cant fight to much because the magnets/baskets of the speakers are still noticable, metal tweeter housings/grills are still there (kinda) and the amps mounted on the back wall as well as the wire and you can see dynamat under the carpet and melted to the doors/roof. I can show wires the same way... I have the receiver to my alarm/remote start, the yellow top is probably no longer recognizable....The deck may not be recognizable either but I have the box and pics of it installed so that shouldnt be a problem either.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

ahh fun stuff. i'd let them drop me, as long as i get what i deserve. insurance companys don't mean anything to me, they dont care about keeping my buisness why should i care bout keeping theirs. 

update - i talked to some guys, josh is gonna have his buddy look at the stuff that might take a couple days who knows. talked to joes shop down the road, he gave me a verbal quote of 2500$ i think that was a vastttttttttt over quote, but on his advisement i involved my insurance company. i have an appointment to get a quote form my insurance company tomorrow during my break. so we'll see how things turn out, i also sent some pictures out to my machanic for him to have his buddy take a look at the damage. i must say i am very blessed to be in a very good position with such great friends who are able to help me take care of my car, very grateful for that. things can get very stressful when you deal with only people who want your money for a repair.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

That'll buff out.

No, seriously though. It's a taillight, a bumper cover, plus a couple of pulls, some bondo, and a respray of that rear quarter. Trunk isn't damaged and there is no frame damage. Get a quote for $2500, pick the two parts off a pull-a-part or fleabay, get the rear quarter fixed professionally and have them spray the quarter and bumper. Done for $1000 and good as new. Nonissue but worth the $1500 you pocket for new gear and your time. If you saw the work they put into my VW before they resurrected the title on it you would freak. Looks like the car was rear-ended and buckled up to the sunroof. The floorboards aren't flat but it drives straight and the entire car cost about what my front stage is worth. <shrugs> 

It's just a car.

-T


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> That'll buff out.
> 
> No, seriously though. It's a taillight, a bumper cover, plus a couple of pulls, some bondo, and a respray of that rear quarter. Trunk isn't damaged and there is no frame damage. Get a quote for $2500, pick the two parts off a pull-a-part or fleabay, get the rear quarter fixed professionally and have them spray the quarter and bumper. Done for $1000 and good as new. Nonissue but worth the $1500 you pocket for new gear and your time. If you saw the work they put into my VW before they resurrected the title on it you would freak. Looks like the car was rear-ended and buckled up to the sunroof. The floorboards aren't flat but it drives straight and the entire car cost about what my front stage is worth. <shrugs>
> 
> ...


yeah i'm thinking i should be able to get it down to 1500, about 800 of that is in painting and bondo work but what am i gonna do? i dont have spray booths, blending knowledge and and paint matches. the parts, pretty easy. the guy is gonna try and pick some up from some junk yards, he told me he has some national connections so i'm hoping he at least find a painted bumper, since about 40% of all 6th gen montes are silver, and its the same bumper on the cover i think, and the impala of that year. or not corvet, whats their other sports car? i know it matches something else, maybe even some verstions of the grand prixs. the tail light is the easy part, the bumper is the hardpart. 

the good news is, my bumper is raged and torn up anyways, i accidently drilled it during origonal fit out last year :worried:, never showed much, but than somebody hit it while i was in class this winter, and i backed into a mail box a few months back, and the other week i backed into a f150 bumper and put a nice 4 inch crease in it. def gonna have to be more careful. i might use the extra cash to get some of the other paint issues ive had. my clears pealing on my roof for some reason in all the trim pieces, and the hood has a paint chip and both doors have a nice chip in em from ******* kids in town not knowing how to open a car door  if does work out with a 1500$ pocket, than we might be seeing some of those upgrades really fast  but i'm not the type of man to aim to abuse systems like that, hell i hate to even file an unemployment claim.


back on topic though - the build. 

some of the things ive learned from my experiences out in the "field" as it were talking to many many experienced people, baker, a local Pennsylvanian who has just a huge amount of experience, tom, howard, highly. ive gathered some things, some of my issues. 

my pods were built PRETTY good, but some issues ive desovered are the drivers could of been aimed a little better. the drivers should of been MUCH further out and closer to flush mounted. the reason that became a problem was, i was than unable to widen my stage, things were very condenced and narrow. not TOO narrow, but not as wide as it should be. for personal listening, it's great but if i wanna compete gonna have to work on that. i also talked to baker about possible future positions. I think i'm gonna do kicks, they image better for 2 seater, and i just like the feel more. i think i'm gonna do tweeters up high though, or i might go passive mid-tweeter and put them both in the kicks, depends, not sure on that yet. would love to run stereo lows too, with dual GTI's in the rear deck. I think i'm gonna forget my dreams of a center. i've heard one car with a center, it's not even really worth it.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

Stereo subs are what you would call a massive waste of time, power, and processing in a car unless they also happen to be your midbasses and spaced widely in front of you. At that point the stereo separation in the midbass remains a benefit. There isn't an appreciable volume of recorded media with true stereo subbass to play even if you did set it up. When the period of the waveform is longer than the distance between the ears we lose that capacity as humans. Elephants, however, would really enjoy it!

-T


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> . Elephants, however, would really enjoy it!
> 
> -T


good to know :surprised:


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

im ordering a new tail light and i've also ordered the L4SE's and some L1R2's, the R2's were kind of a last minute thought, but I think it'll really top this system off quite nicley. I'm gonna mount the L4's in kicks i think and try to put the R2's in the A pillars. i'll finish these with vinyl instead of flocking this time. hybrid has also FINILY started selling grills, well soon at least, ive been trying to bend scotts arm into selling me an early set but he doesn't seem to budge, but they'll be out soon.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Kicks? Alright Ray, can't wait to see that! Are you going to do them yourself or have somebody help you with them?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

my self of course


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Cool. I'm sure it will turn out now that you have some glassing experience under your belt. Something I've always considered in my Monte, but I think I'll wait and see how yours goes first.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

damn. wish I knew about those grilles. I could use some myself.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

bikinpunk said:


> damn. wish I knew about those grilles. I could use some myself.


yeah, i only found out because scott showed me an updated price sheet and they were on the price sheet.


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

Tip: Scott posted them on the HAT Facebook page nearly of two months ago. 

Time to Friend Hybrids?


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## veritasz34 (Jul 25, 2011)

Looks like you have put alot of work into this..Yes insurance companies only care about their bottom line..A junk yard WILL be the way to go. I used to frequent several in the area looking for lumina parts. I bought up everything like switches,interior pieces and fuses..You can get a ton of old fuses for pennies or nothing depending on the owner..But the car was a 1992 lumina and parts were getting hard to find..


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, i got a quote today from a guy for 650$ which is fair. thats just the body work and the install of the tail light, well i'll be installing it but he has to take it off to work on it. so that's the rout im going. gonna take awhile to find a bumper cover. 

back on build track - 

I just sent payments for the drivers i ORIGONALy picked for this build. i got a BNIB sealed pair of Hybrid L4SE's, and the L1R2's, the R2's were open box but brand new. don't think they've even seen a single watt outside the factory. 

i'm still trying to talk to a company about an electronic parking brake, but I'm working on it. not sure when things will start rolling but the game plan is to have everything in before things get to cold, still havn't moved the sub or worked on the false floor but these things take planning and need the time to do them, perhaps after the cars repaired i'll start working on things. 

i'll be waiting for the h800 as the final change, than i'll be working on tuning and tweaking things. a massive deadening will also be done. this is why i'm holding off on the build, so that I can do everything in a certain order. so that things aren't down for TO long.

oh and tod, i knew about the grills a long time ago, i had a little chat with scott about them awhile back when i had the L4's. he said he was working on pushing them but they weren't in enough demand, i guess he eventually got them through.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

not sure when im gonna start building things :\ i'm still trying to figuire out how to fund the final build for next seasons comps. 

still figuiring out some things for deadening. i'd like some advice. i was thinking about second skin, but they set their own prices, they make good stuff. but i'm not looking to spend that kind 500$ on deadening. i'm thinking 270$ with the stuff i've worked out seems good. 










and 

50^ New Butyl Sound Deadener Deadening Quiet Mat | eBay


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> not sure when im gonna start building things :\ i'm still trying to figuire out how to fund the final build for next seasons comps.
> 
> still figuiring out some things for deadening. i'd like some advice. i was thinking about second skin, but they set their own prices, they make good stuff. but i'm not looking to spend that kind 500$ on deadening. i'm thinking 270$ with the stuff i've worked out seems good.
> 
> ...


imo just talk to rick from raam audio and see if you can work something out.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> imo just talk to rick from raam audio and see if you can work something out.


that foam looks about the same as the stuff i'm looking at, and the other matting is about the same price but with 20 cf less


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

What is the value of that foam again? I mean...what does it actually DO? Where would you use it? Is there something cheaper that would be just as effective?


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

eviling said:


> that foam looks about the same as the stuff i'm looking at, and the other matting is about the same price but with 20 cf less


even if you dont go with rick, i dont see how it would hurt to send him a pm for a quote.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

highly said:


> What is the value of that foam again? I mean...what does it actually DO? Where would you use it? Is there something cheaper that would be just as effective?


how would you go about deadening, i've heard having more than one type of material helps eliminate even more noises and vibrations. i'm looking to do a complete car cover, i'm even thinking about the head liner, but that dpeends how much of a pain in the ass it is to get out.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

eviling said:


> how would you go about deadening, i've heard having more than one type of material helps eliminate even more noises and vibrations. i'm looking to do a complete car cover, i'm even thinking about the head liner, but that dpeends how much of a pain in the ass it is to get out.


Do you want foam or deadener? 

What is it EXACTLY you want to achieve?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

...noise reduction, vibration reduction.

I didn't know it was so strange to want to use both? i was under the impression it was a normal thing :-\


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

eviling said:


> ...noise reduction, vibration reduction.
> 
> I didn't know it was so strange to want to use both? i was under the impression it was a normal thing :-\


The confusion is due to you saying "foam" and "deaden" in the same sentence.

Typically these are noted to have different meanings and uses. 

Where is the noise coming from? Where is the vibration coming from? Any details you can give help you better understand what method(s) work best to effect your problems.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

I have some kind ressoence issues in my doors. and i was looking to eliminate road noise on the floor boards, and deaden my rear deck, as i plan to hang my sub (or subs) from it. 

the doors have given me a real hard time :-s i've put some fat mat on em but, doesn't seem to be enough...i'm not making a problem of it....it's just something that needs to be done, i was just gonna deaden the **** out the whole thing and call it a day, perhaps not the most efficient way of going about it, but sure as hell would be a certainty in the method if you ask me.

so you say just the simple sound deadening mat will be enough around the car to deaden things up?


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## highly (Jan 30, 2007)

I think that what we are trying to allude to is that each individual element in noise management has a very narrow range of use. I have yet to see a use for the thin foam that makes it more useful than, say, craft felt. You know... the stuff you get for $3 a yard at WalMart. Do you feel the felt would produce any of the result you are looking for? If you have two bits of plastic that rub together and squeak, then the foam may help. Otherwise if throwing a blanket over the noise doesn't solve it then the foam won't either.

Same goes for mass loading. If laying your hand on the noise doesn't solve it how much mass do you think you would need to quiet it down? 

Just trying to get you thinking about targeting one problem with one solution instead of shotgunning the problem with cash only to still have the problem.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

The foam works well to eliminate rattles. I know you said a while back that there were some plastic pieces rattling in your car. Ensolite would be great for that (plus it's sticky backed)! And I agree, you should check with Rick on the mat. I have been very impressed with the quality and used it to deaden my whole car along with adding foam behind most of the plastic panels and behind the speakers.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i'll see what my options are their. 

for now...we have gooddys  these things...are just...a work of art. i dont even know what to say, everyting is machined so perfectly. i was not surprised by the size but it is still got me wondering how deep these things play :\ the L4's played so nice in the lower area, incredibly tonality, and just rich sound. i'm sure these will have the tonality and the richness but will they play as nice in the deeper notes. im sure they'll play much deeper than my 10f's thats for sure >_< those things are nice. but they can do so poorley when left to stand alone. 





















edit - just got home after finishing up some things i had to run. i just finished laying around with it. can't really say much yet, nice sounding driver..can't really tell much from a short bench play like this though but tis very very nice tonality, a bit harsh on the very high end it seems but with a tweeter topping that off, i'm sure they'll sound very good. the R2's come tomorrow.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got my hands on a used tail light, after a mild treatment with some chemicals, couple applications, looks like new ;P aside from some miner scuffs.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

How much did the tail light cost you? Just in case the 5-0 get on my case for tinting mine, I want to know what I'm risking here. Also, what's that bottle of Meguiars you've got there? What's it do?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

90$-140 is the going rate for a after market unit. i paid 40$ for this used unit, the stuff next to it is a cleaning agent, it was a big foggy, it's from an older monte, i think an 01 or a 00'


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Oh, only $40? Worth it.

So, the way I've found around the squeaking interior door handles is just shoving some Ensolite in it... works fine. Do you have any of that ensolite, Ray?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i do not.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Get ya some of that then. It's great stuff. Or hell, I have so much of it left over I can send you some if you want o_o


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

alright well droped the new tail light in. 


















this ones hard to see, but theirs a crease under the gas plate, can't really see it from this angle, only from the front. 




































as follows in the **** storm of my life, the R2's came today and one was signifigantly deffective and i'm in the works of working that out, but I suspect poor packaging to be at fault..hopefully he was wise enough to insure said package, otherwise he may be in the rain. or i might be depending if he's a shady character, but he is a shop owner so I'd like to presume not. 




























.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

some progress to report i guess some might call it. the body damage repair is next week...sigh. gonna have a rental for a few days  not looking forward to that >_< 

I just recieved a lovley little package from our good friend millerlyte  who was so nice they sent me (she? ) sent me her left over deadener to try out on my doors to help get rid of the noise i';ve been having. 

I also got my hands on a table saw  and some nicer fiberglass (for when i start the new glass work) also some epoxy resin so i can cast my floor for the pods with out turning my car into a fumigation tank  

I ordered a dash mat, custom of course  added a little emboydery to it, and got the premium material they had. came to around 85$ shipped but i'm sure it'll be worth it  gonna take awhile on that though  looks like the end of this month. i was a little surprised but i guess they do have a large order load :X


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

tehe, just toor open the door and i imediatly threw the L6 on a bench to see if its blown..andd.................the results...its fine the rattle seems to be in the door somwhere. this cheap deadener is pealing all over the place  might of even been causing the rattle i heard. sigh. guess it's time for new deadener, that fatmat was never that great to begin with but this..just holy cow what a PITA. 

but man...listening to this L6 full range again...it never seases to amaze me what this thing can do, and at volumes...it just springs to life. I had feared i jared the magnet, i remembered the last time i had it open I had the speaker sitting on a bench that fell over from a gust of wind and it hit the ground, i almost forgot about it till the other day and was afraid that's what the rattle was. 

anyways. yeah gonna get that door cleaned up and back into a rattle free state. I got the stuff ally gave me to help me ^_^

just thought I'd show you all what is usialy in my trunk, this is EVERYTHING cleaned out of my trunk. well excpet my box is sitting on the lawn, it's not in this picture.  but yeah it's quite the large box, i think it's around 16 inches deep, 14 tall and like 3 feed wide. 


hoping i don't have door clarence issues with it being raised a 1\4" now with the 2 layers of foam between everything :\ 














oh and here;s the L6 on my "bench" tehe. just my little logitech z5500 computer sound system, its what i use to test my drivers. 










edit - decopled  









picked the stripping up at work from one of the duct guys, got an entire roll of it. it's the nice stuff too, very dense, and self adhesive. works great  not many use it, they usialy just use the puddy, which is nice to have too, but not great for this application. 





























BY THE WAY! the vibration was from a stripped screw on the top of the speaker baffle  I had to rethread it and run some 10-24 screws into it, i also dropped a nut behind it, so it won't strip out again.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

erm.. didn't get much done today  but i got things sorted out inside the doors at least. I took apart the trim peices on the door panels and using the foam from ally, i wrapped the edges of said pieces, refited them, closed them and not a squeeke to be found  i also wraped some of the door pins with it. replaced the passenger side window switch that i broke, and decoppled the baffles and speakers from the baffles. 


















this is the handle grip to the door trim, i wraped the edges with foam  








this is the top peice of trim on the door panel. it tended to squeek so i wraped the inside edges in foam.




































gonna finish up this break, and get back at it and start working on the trunk..not sure what to do but i'll do something, that's for sure


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Doors look good Ray. Glad to see the foam worked for you.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> Doors look good Ray. Glad to see the foam worked for you.



one word.....rain  i never got ANYWHERE in my amp rack. nowhere at all, the saw never even made it to setup, by the time i put the door panels back on it was driselling. now it's raining all day today so blah. 

im curiouse, is that how you did your doors? i didn't see anyone take pictures of the trim apart, so i mean i just kind of thought of it on my own XD i think you did mention..perhaps thats where i got the idea.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

:laugh: just ordered up some stuff from rick at RAAm audio. and holy ****, cost me a 20 min phone call, but what a great guy haha. got me a good deal on some stuff, ran numbers at me so fast my head exploded but I can only assume he got me what i tried to ask for XD


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Rick is a great guy with great products, as you've seen. 

I never got to taking the door handle apart like you did... how'd you do that?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, its an apasolute must if you wanna deaden those babys up nice and tight. 

you just take off that metal back plate, and their is ONE single screw on the face of the door panel, under the handle. its easy to get out, just if you don't know its their..kind of frustrating lol but once those screws are out, they pop out, take the bottom peice out first, because the top peice is a ***** to get out with it in.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the corner panel fixed.  and new headlight, as i showed. he also recleared my door sail trims on the top of my car. he pealed the clear off but he's gonna take care of it for me. 










new dash mat FINILY finished, it just shipped out. 










also ordered 15 sheets of sound deadening mat, and some foam from rick at raam audio 


i can tell you, you REALLY learn to appriciate true high end audio when you are thrown into a car with a bare bone sound system for a week. i rented a car, they gave me a BRAND NEW susuki sx4, pile of **** in a can. lol felt like i was gonna get blown off the road XD did have that semi manual paddle shifting which made things fun  when i got into my car this morning after dropping the rewntal off. turned up the sound system and just sat their for 5 mins enjoying the moment ^_^


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

dAsh mat in


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

What brand mat is that? None of the Dash Mat brand mats I've seen have that material nor fit that well. I switched to Dash Topper for better fit and materials.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

dashmat.com

the material is very thin and high qulity, its their top of the line mat, its the LTD. edition, with a custom embroidery. my dash is very flat, the hard parts to match are the passenger side, and as you can see it conforms very well. i had peices of velcrow all over the place though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ahhhhhh, the Ltd Edition has never been available for any of my cars and there aren't any pics on their site so this is the first I've seen of it. Looks good!


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

im really diggin that dash mat. im really unsure of what class im going to be thrown in, when i finally start competing since my install is so overdone, plus i work at an audio shop, even though i dont buy anything from work, since my boss never gets around to ordering it..

so i get bumped up in classes, i think ill do a dash mat, use some sort of processor, and go with a-pillar pods. my plans were to not do any of the above things for my first season.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> im really diggin that dash mat. im really unsure of what class im going to be thrown in, when i finally start competing since my install is so overdone, plus i work at an audio shop, even though i dont buy anything from work, since my boss never gets around to ordering it..
> 
> so i get bumped up in classes, i think ill do a dash mat, use some sort of processor, and go with a-pillar pods. my plans were to not do any of the above things for my first season.


Thats modaied in meca which is my class unless you do omething to you dash


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

not really an update, but ive been real busy lastley, school, work, sleep, school work sleep is my scedule lol some eating in their too if im lucky. 

i do have new toys though  the R2's are on their way back to me, impact says they are fine...i disgaree i think they have some kind of low frequency distortion going on, but i guess if im not crossing em their its no big deal. id love to run the scandanavians i think but idk if that's really where i wanna take this, plus they'll be allot of weight on my A pillars, at least compared to these L1R2's which have no wight what so ever. which is no good since the new pillars i have also have busted pins like the one on my passenger side, except its the opisite now lol the driver side is missing a pin, oh well, **** happens i guess. i'm gonna wrap them in that vinyl i bought for the origonal project, if id ont put the mids in the A pillars, id like to run them in my kicks with my tweeters up on the dash off my A pillars. 

on a side note, new work toys, and they also double as home toys  tehe. i might sell this sawsall for a cordless jig saw or something but i got the kit at a great ****ing price!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

did a little work today...well was allot...this driver side door has become my mortal enemy when it comes to rattles, i spent many a hour in the past tweaking it, always mild attempts to deaden things, nothing to drastic...got things PRETTY quiet, but this time...i went all hands on deck, covered the whole door...than when i played it i realised i forgot to do behind the peice of foam i had previously sealed, and that the rattles i thought the door panel was creating was in reality a rattle inside the window's machanics, and i pretty much solved that by deadening all the metal around the window frame, than peiced up the outer skin with a few peices, and finished up by wraping the foam in some foam, placing it back on, and called it a day. 

sadly...my door panel no longer fits  guess i went a little over board, well the baffle i had was to tight...so what i need to do before next sunday is get new baffles made, the wooden ones arent cutting it anyways, especily with this last week of rain..holy hell, their warped, moldy, and look like ****. lol I have an idea for whats gonna make some great material to cut some baffles out of..but it;'s a secrete :X acutaly i dont know what its called, they have it in 1\2" thick and 1\4" sheets they use it for finishing counter tops, its almost a plastic wood hybrid feel lol idk, its very dense, but not plasticy and chunky feeling, very good feel to it, it should work out great, i just need to pick some up :X


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

coat the wood in fiberglass resin, king starboard, or hdpe cutting boards


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## bginvestor (Jan 13, 2008)

Man, it took awhile to read through the whole thread, but there's a lot of great info in here! Keep it up..

I am also investigating what my next processor will be.. I have an Alpine unit so that is heavily weighing my decision.  Also, I am not interested in a separate volume control from the deck.. Keeping a close eye on the H800..


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

bginvestor said:


> Man, it took awhile to read through the whole thread, but there's a lot of great info in here! Keep it up..
> 
> I am also investigating what my next processor will be.. I have an Alpine unit so that is heavily weighing my decision. Also, I am not interested in a separate volume control from the deck.. Keeping a close eye on the H800..


I'd like the 800 but i dont wanna mount the RUX. I like the idea of the RF .3


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Ray, the doors are looking good. I've still got one or two buzzes in my doors, how effective was your deadening of the window motor? Also, what's your dash sound like? Mine's rattling in the back... any ideas what that might be?

Also, would you please wander back to my thread and perhaps clarify what you were trying to tell me in your last post there? I am intrigued to know


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

eviling said:


> I'd like the 800 but i dont wanna mount the RUX. I like the idea of the RF .3


Wasn't the .3 delayed until at least the end of next year? I didn't read up much on the H800 but does the controller HAVE to be mounted?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> Ray, the doors are looking good. I've still got one or two buzzes in my doors, how effective was your deadening of the window motor? Also, what's your dash sound like? Mine's rattling in the back... any ideas what that might be?
> 
> Also, would you please wander back to my thread and perhaps clarify what you were trying to tell me in your last post there? I am intrigued to know


yeah ive been having that rattle in the dash too, don't know what it is. 


the motor it's self wasn't the rattle, it seem'd to be the outer corner of the door, i coudlnt find the cause of the rattle, but by deadening all the open metal i could find, i eliminated the path for the resonance  the mat that i got worked extreamly well, even with 1 layer it did allot, front and back did amazing, but i did a 3 layer deadening, i put on larger striped, than small strips, than really small strips. 

my door panel wights a ton now  i put like 5 lbs of mat onto it :laugh: that pannel will never rattle again. right now my biggest problem is my panel not mounting on the bottom becuase of all the added padding :mean: I need to get a thinner baffle.

the american release for the 800 is looking like spring of 12', and the .3 is looking like spring of 12' as well. sadly putting them both nowhere near what i want them. idk if the 800 needs the RUX mounted, the 700 did NOT need it, but idk about the 800, they did change a bunch of things. i mean i COULD get a 800 now imported but idk :\


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

You don't NEED the RUX for the 800... it is still fully tunable via laptop. You need the RUX to tune if you don't want to use a laptop.


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## bginvestor (Jan 13, 2008)

+1 one of the reasons why I like this unit.. we'll see..


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

strakele said:


> You don't NEED the RUX for the 800... it is still fully tunable via laptop. You need the RUX to tune if you don't want to use a laptop.


rhe RUX only offers the ballance, T|A and some tonal controls, not the full featured EQ and cross overs (as far as i know) but i woudlnt want that into a deck anyways, i got away from deck processing so i wouldnt have to tune with a tiny din sized object


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

Any Alpine Ai-net head unit will give you balance and tone and stuff. You need the RUX to do full tuning without laptop.

But since you don't want to do that anyway, you'd be fine with just the H800.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got the R2's back today. impact sent em back, told he found no distortion i guess my bench plays to low for them and i just jumped the gun before trying them in my car in a more controlled and knowen cross over point lol id ont even know what this bench puts out to be honest, but ive played other tweeters with em :\ anyways. they'll end up in the car i think. i was thinking about the scandavians from DLS but these R2's just fit so much easier and would probobly be an easier install, plus will sound cleaner than the DLS i'm sure. although the DLS might have a bit of a louder high end :\


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

i wish every company let you put your own speaker wire on them. at least the high-end models. i just got my ck6v5's in the mail today and those tweeters come with some pos rinky dink wire too.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

blueatlanta said:


> i wish every company let you put your own speaker wire on them. at least the high-end models. i just got my ck6v5's in the mail today and those tweeters come with some pos rinky dink wire too.


soldering gun? 


anyways, just some pictures of my baby all cleaned up...every time i clean this thing i find more scraches and crap. when you comute to work allot them high way miles really tear up your paint job. plus the bugs..good lord, something hit my head light the size of a quarter


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

i fixed most the damage from the accident, but yet to replace the bumper cover. still on the hunt for one of them used  




































this guy...erg he and me have a seriouse issue...see he likes to sag and fall off his perch...i disagree and say he should stay up, but he no listen :mean:


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

i looked at my ctx65 tweeters and they dont seem to have any exposed contact points, however the massive audio tweeters do.

btw the tweets that come with the rk6 and ck6v5 are the exact same, so if i bust a pair, i wont care.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

bummer. locked my self outside of my car today with the keys in the trunk...after starting it -_- that was fun.

how about some eye candy, with some high quality images! i havnt even begun to really do ANYYYYYYYYTHING :-s


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## rugdnit (Dec 24, 2007)

eviling said:


> bummer. locked my self outside of my car today with the keys in the trunk...after starting it -_- that was fun.
> 
> how about some eye candy, with some high quality images! i havnt even begun to really do ANYYYYYYYYTHING :-s


Sweetness! New A-Pillar build!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah..fun to you maybe -_- sigh. but I digress it'll be one hell of a system when said and done! holy ****ing cow am i in the hole right now in gear! I'm gonna have to start selling to get back up on my feet soon or i'ma just have to much gear sitting around. 

so, upgrades! this is the newest model of the setup. 
as you can see, VERY different, but some what the same. I have the L6's out for some L8V1's coming in, swapping out the single PDX 4.150 for the clarions to run rear's (180-200 watts rms) with 150-180 going to the L8's. than you can see I am swapping out the second PDX 4.150 for this JL amp i picked up for a STEAL of a price, very under rated power 70x6, with many features. most of which i won't use  but i digress, this system is gonna be top fo top notch. the center isn't really going in but I'm showing it just for concept. 









this amp HAS to weight at least 20 lbs, in the picture i'm having a hell of a time holding it their, i basicly had to jar my elbow stiff, free hand it just fell.


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

eviling said:


>


I don't typically quote pics, but unless I previously missed something, what is that blue thing there? That's where my fog lights are located, but since you don't have those, _was ist das_?

Also, what is that strip of ensolite doing at the sail panel area? I never really thought of that, was it making lots of noise?


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

Those Clarion DPX amps are the ****. I love mine.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

millerlyte said:


> I don't typically quote pics, but unless I previously missed something, what is that blue thing there? That's where my fog lights are located, but since you don't have those, _was ist das_?
> 
> Also, what is that strip of ensolite doing at the sail panel area? I never really thought of that, was it making lots of noise?


well with the pillars built out, they get a little tight so it's just to avoid resonence if it touches it while driving. made a buzz. 

that i put in, its part of my alarm.



strakele said:


> Those Clarion DPX amps are the ****. I love mine.



yeah, the owner gave me all kinds of research on em, their incredible little beasts.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

got a new toy today, dayton ribbon codenser mic, with cord. ordered the USB to MXA from amaazon so that comes monday i guess so i can't start playing with it. none the less, very high quality mic. for 40$ you can't beat an RTA for that price, the software is about 120$ which is where the big bucks come in  79$ for the 1\3 octave version, i ahve the 1\24th octave. 










this is the tablet I run the RTA software on -


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## DWOLF168 (Nov 10, 2011)

i like it


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