# '15 Chevy 2500 2-Way Active



## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

_AKA: "The Obstacles involved in a new vehicle"
_

I've finally begun throwing all my old equipment (and some new) into my 2015 Chevrolet 2500. I'll say it now, I hate working on new vehicles. My last project was an '00 Cherokee and it was light-years easier, in terms of interfacing all the OEM controls and features. 

It's a personally owned worked truck, so needless to say, I do a great deal of miles daily. It's a "Work Trim", so the stereo is garbage...Not that I would think otherwise of the Bose trim. 


Anyhow, the equipment thus far:

-Head unit is a completely Android-based 8" DD HU. 
It's running Kitkat 4.4.2 and I have big plans for it, loving it, so far. here is a link, in case anyone is interested: NU5002-H-H0

-Image Dynamics CTX65cs - Will inevitably get changed out.
I'll be utilizing both the mids and tweets from this kit, wired in Active.

-The front stage will be powered by a Precision Power p900.4.

-Since the HU is incapable of producing what I am looking for, in terms of SQ, I picked up a used Mosconi 6to8v8 and some BT accessories. My plan is to utilize the BT in the Android HU, to select presets and control music. 

Otherwise, no other equipment has been bought. I am still trying to source a decent sub-woofer that will fit under the seats of my double-cab. I would like to get my hands on a MKIV, but it's a bit out of my budget after dropping so much on the processor. 


Well, some pictures!


After years of wanting to work with Don from Sound Deadener Showdown , I finally get the opportunity! While it isn't a full-blown, front to back install, I purchased enough materials to properly seal my doors. 1/8" CCF, CLD tiles, EB Rope, MLV and adhesives were ordered. 











Harness made! F*&% ON-Star! 









Some pics for my soldering process. I recently started using a "pre-tinning" process.

Pre-tinned:









Twisted together:









And joined:









Of course, thereafter I used heat shrink to seal the joints.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Next will be tackling my doors, getting those sealed up, the IDCTX65CS's installed and the speaker wires ran through the door.

My Mosconi unit should be in this week and then I can start tackling the interfacing of the Android HU and the Mosconi.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

I didn't have much time after work to get going on the doors. So I worked on solving my issue in my HU not having RCA out's. I was not aware I could solder on RCA leads without degrading the quality of the signal. /phew

So, with the spare time I had, I learned SketchUp, sorta..










The mock-up might be difficult to read, but I did what I could. The two smaller squares on the bottom face are two 80mm fans. I am toying with the idea of providing proper ventilation for the front stage amp and the processor. I am less concerned with building some fancy box, as I am with creating something practical and heavy duty. Because work truck.

Each top section will sit inside a lip of the walls surrounding it, this way I can easily remove the covers and access each unit. I'll likely bedline the box completely. The floors of my truck are vinyl, so it shouldn't look too funky.

All the wires will route through this box and it will also act as a channel for a 4ga wire to pass through to the rear.

I would love any input regarding the fans. This is a work truck, so I think that these fans will only be exhaust fans, so as to not draw in unwanted debris.

I also took a minute to organize my wires. A selection of 12ga speaker wire (overkill, I'm sure), RCA's (will be cut to adapt to the speaker wire on the HU), 4ga ground and power and 0/1. All from KnuKonceptz.










For anyone reading, is connecting my amp grounds to a chassis ground any different than brining it all the way back to the negative terminal on the battery?


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Well, initially I had planned on making my box house both subs, but I am now contemplating the separation of the two. However, I am a bit worried about the size.

My initial plans:










This drawing yielded 1.89768 ft^3 , after driver displacement was taken into account.

And this is with the boxes broken down into two:










Each box would net 0.596887 ft^3 , (after displacement) and would allow space for the amp to be mounted between the two boxes...Pretty tempting. I am wondering, since this space is barely above the requirements, if it would be advantageous to add some poly-fill. Though, I am concerned with which box would provide better sound.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

I opened up my doors this evening, in anticipation for sealing up my doors tomorrow and what I found was rather surprising (to me). The doors were sealed very well, for a work truck, no less. There is a layer of MLV-like material lining the outer door, seam-sealed completely. The trim panel is decoupled rather well, with a layer of foam. 



















I've also moved my intention of installing the ID CTX6.5cs 2 set and I am now looking at the PPI P65c3's. I am loving the idea of a 3-way set, though I've only got the 4-channel PPI amp currently, so I'll have to pick up a couple more channels. 

I've also narrowed down my sub selection, and I am pretty set on the SD-3's, in 10". In fact, both of the above boxes are based on those drivers. 

Onward ho!


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Well, my setup has changed rather drastically.

I have moved on from looking into the PPI 3-way kit and I am getting the following, instead.

Midbasses: Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5"
Midrange: Scanspeak Discovery 10F/8414G-10 4"
Tweeters: Vifa NE25VTS-04 1"

This setup came highly recommended from another board member. His wisdom is endless and I'm stoked that he's eager to share it.

Otherwise, I'll be picking up another p900.4 to power the rest of the channels, as well as pick up the subs.

I've relocated my entire amp/processor situation and I am now going to build a rack for the amps and eliminate my center console.

Pictures soon!


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

HU is all setup, well, mostly. 

It looks cool, anyways...


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Interested in seeing if that Scanspeak 4" fits in the factory dash location. I think I might have the same size opening in my Colorado.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

beerdrnkr said:


> Interested in seeing if that Scanspeak 4" fits in the factory dash location. I think I might have the same size opening in my Colorado.


I doubt they will without some aggressive persuasion. I am hopefully opening then up tonight.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Welp, everything is moving along (slowly). I'm unfortunately purchasing things faster than I can install them!

Here is a start of the new center console:









The box takes up every possible square inch between the seats, it will raise the factory arm rest by a couple inches when it's all said and done.

The wiring will come from under the box and routed through a false floor..I'm hoping for a really clean command center. I am also toying with the idea of a plexiglass lid, though, I am not completely sure of how I am going to make it easily accessible. Hinges are an option, albiet an ugly one and not too practical.

I still plan on installing 4x fans, 2x120mm in the front and 2x80mm in the rear. The offset in CFM is to induce a positive pressured environment, this will help reduce the amount of dirt and dust that will accumulate in the box. The 2x120mm will be filtered.

We shall see...


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

Four inch won't fit in the dash. 2 3/4 inch driver in stock location. Short of removing the windshield it's almost impossible to enlarge the hole


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Mlarson67 said:


> Four inch won't fit in the dash. 2 3/4 inch driver in stock location. Short of removing the windshield it's almost impossible to enlarge the hole


Yea, I figured as much. Thanks for chiming in, by the way.

I plan on using the space in the dash (even if I have to cut a little) and create a fiberglass enclosure. It will extend out of the stock cavity and create however much of a mound I need in order to create adequate space.

This way, I can play with the direction as well and find what sounds best.


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

Nice approach to problem. I put some C5 jl tweets in that space and it was a PITA just getting installed in a baffle!


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Mlarson67 said:


> Nice approach to problem. I put some C5 jl tweets in that space and it was a PITA just getting installed in a baffle!


Got any pics to share?

As far as getting into the dash, am I right that you start from the side, near the sail, and pry up?


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

Sorry no pics. Lost them on old phone. As far as removing the front dash/ grill panel yes start on side by a pillars and pry up about ten clips along length of panel front and rear


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I am tuned in for this one, Nice work so far


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

I am without words.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I am guessing your list appeared, nice!


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Indeed.

Here is the center console layout. The power and geound blocks will be on the side, near the 6to8v8 and everything will be mounted on a false floor, to hide the wires.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Do those PPI amps perform as well as everyone says I haven't messed with any in at least 15 years, I know in their hay day they were one of the amps to have


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Do those PPI amps perform as well as everyone says I haven't messed with any in at least 15 years, I know in their hay day they were one of the amps to have


I've never had a single issue with my one unit, that's the main reason why I went for a second. That and the PPI amps are at such a great price point.

Admittedly, this is my second instal, ever. Therefore I really can't comment beyond my limited experience. Everything I read about these p900.4's is generally good..

I actually might pick up a p1000.1 as well, to power a couple SD-3 10's. I am toying with the idea of just one, however, this way I could utilize the two leftover channels and bridge them.

Oh, decisions.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Right on I am liking the choice of the front stage, it's crazy how good you can make that setup sound and without breaking the bank. I am watching to see how it turns out I have a 2008 Chevy crew I'm going to start on soon.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Right on I am liking the choice of the front stage, it's crazy how good you can make that setup sound and without breaking the bank. I am watching to see how it turns out I have a 2008 Chevy crew I'm going to start on soon.


Good to hear!

As you might have seen above, I almost went with a PPI 3-way kit, but an acquaintance here on the boards steered me in this direction. And I am getting increasingly excited to hear it once it's all tuned up.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I believe you made a wise choice


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Today was moderately successful. 

I finished 90% of the center console, still need to drill holes in the false floor for wire management. I ended up having some fitment issues with the armrest, so the rear portion of the box will have to be addressed.

Fans were rough cut into place...still need some smoothing out and I realized I had forgot to buy grills!

False floor:









Fan space rough cut:









Then, the misses heard that I was working on my things, so she insisted that I build her a couple spice racks....









And the V8 is assembled! 









Tomorrow I will address the fitment of the armrest, as well as stain the console. I'm going with a "Weathered Gray" and full gloss poly, I think that'll match the interior best.

I also picked up a piece of 1/8" lexan, which will be the top for the box. I want to watch my precious.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

So your going to keep the stock console armrest, and do your command center underneath nice design. I can't decide if I want to lose the middle seat totally or just the bottom, I have designed for both, can't wait to see more


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> So your going to keep the stock console armrest, and do your command center underneath nice design. I can't decide if I want to lose the middle seat totally or just the bottom, I have designed for both, can't wait to see more


That's the plan. We'll see how it goes. It's going to be more difficult than I thought, to have my cake and eat it. For the time being, I'm going to get the command center set. Then figure out how to integrate the armrest.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I found a pic online of a center console that was done for 2-10" down fire it was actually a nice enclosure. It was a thought but I sure hate to lose my storage.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> I found a pic online of a center console that was done for 2-10" down fire it was actually a nice enclosure. It was a thought but I sure hate to lose my storage.


That is very clean!

Here's another good one that I found yesterday. It's much closer to what I've got planned, albiet, he did a better job than I. Haha.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...tall-gallery/195865-14-silverado-out-box.html

I've got a box built and everything mounted, though I'm still trying to decide if I want to use this design or scrap it and start another.

Oh, decisions.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I've commented on his build several times he is doing a great job with that build. I like the direction he took with his enclosure. I am leaning towards that style enclosure but port it to the very back of the truck and leave both sides open for equipment, amps batteries dsp etc. I'll post another picture of another truck on here that is an insane amount of work on the console, iPad me like very much


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

This thing is bad ass for sure, my dash is different so I'll be putting my iPad in the dash unless I decide to use the Kenwood 5902 with the capability to mirror apps from phone onto screen of the unit.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I have this style dash not the common Tahoe dash.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Here is the stock dash location, I'm considering mounting the 4" (after shaving off a lot of plastic) at the same angle, or potentially just straight up to the windshield.










And here's where I would like some opinions: The next two images are the stock dash speaker grill. The bottom side had some major obstructions, these plastic reinforcements. I am trying to determine how much this piece will affect the sound negatively. I don't think it would be too hard to cut the plastic grill out completely and insert a true metal grill. But is that more work than its worth, is the question.

Underside:









From above, I would trace that outer edge, if I were to cut and replace with metal.









Thanks for any input/opinions. 


I am hoping that with this 3 day weekend approaching, I will be able to mock-up my tweeter locations and figure out what sounds best.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

That's a tough one, would you get any wider stage with them laying flat? I would probably listen to them before deciding.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> That's a tough one, would you get any wider stage with them laying flat? I would probably listen to them before deciding.


That's my thinking. 

I'm going to mock everything into place this weekend. Then off to the hobby store to buy some foam, in order to create the pods.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Sounds like a good weekend of testing and maybe throw back a few beers, let us know how it works out


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Were you able to make any progress this weekend


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Were you able to make any progress this weekend


Unfortunately, not too much. I began at about 5PM tonight...Ended up working yesterday and the misses had me jam packed for the day...hoping tomorrow I can get some real work done...

I did remove the dash piece completely and start the mid/tweet pods.

Here's the stock dash:









I cut the factory speaker grills out in a manner that leave some of the outline of the original space, that way I can make a mold out of the OEM grill. It came out pretty clean, me thinks:

















Factory grill taped up:









This is my first time working with fiberglass, so I expect some upsets. My plan is to build up the perimter of this mold. After the mold frame is set, I will mount my mid and tweeter and stretch fabric over the top. I will then build up the bottom, to give my mid a little more space...Looking for 1L in total.










Going to attack this early in the morning when there is more day light...as you can tell from the pics...I'm doing this in an apartment...on a balcony, ahah.



*Edit* This is what ended up taking most of my time...Built her a long overdo farm-style table for our kitchen...Came out pretty awesome, so it's not a total loss.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

If the misses ain't happy the whole block ain't happy lmao, good start man can't wait to see how they turn out, great looking table by the way.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> If the misses ain't happy the whole block ain't happy lmao, good start man can't wait to see how they turn out, great looking table by the way.


Thanks hombre 

She's very exited for the table, haha. Sanded it down to 600g and did 3 coats of semi-gloss poly to seal her up. 

Just ordered these grills for the 4" and 6.5" :

Speaker Grill, 5" Black Metal 2 Piece Speaker Grill, SG-M4

I realized today that I have plenty of room to orient the 6.5" woofers however I want. Is there any benefit to setting the 6.5's at an angle? Or should I just shoot them straight out?


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Damn like the grills I'm gna have to save that one for my build those are gna work great in yours as well great find


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Small update, but lots of pics! I decided I would spend my day on the dash pods. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, but I ended up combining the tweeter and the mid pod, rather than setting the tweeter in the sail. Each driver is set on axis with the driver/passenger.

The first pods sat into place perfectly. It took a few trips, which is significant, because each revision required going up and down 3 flights...ha! I had to drop the height down each time, the speaker locations are just so far down and encroached upon by the windshield. It should be clear that I am still relying on the windshield for first reflection, though the mids are now aimed at each respective individual.









From outside, to show some of the room leftover below. I still need to create a "belly" for the pods, so that mids have enough room to breathe. 









Mid on the passenger side, directed to the driver's head:









First fleece wrap, I was really stoked with how easy it was to manipulate...zero wrinkles.

















It was definitely MUCH harder to tack the fleece in place to accommodate the tweeter as well. I took it apart a few times, till I found a design that I liked. I am still thinking of running one more piece of fleece from the tweeter back, to smooth out that angle and have it not look like a ramp.

















I'm off to fix the tweeter angle...and I might add some bondo with short hair tonight. I'll start the finish work tomorrow, hopefully.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

A couple more pictures for the night. I wasn't able to level off the top of the tweeter angle as much as I wanted, but I'm starting to like it. No filler has been added, just sanding the glass itself. I also found spots where the resin didn't penetrate the fleece...could be a problem.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Okay, lesson learned: do not use body with short hair glass as a filler, when you've already got a pretty good sirface...It goes without saying that I made a lot more work for myself. That being said, I'm very pleased with how it's turning out...

Said disaster:








Left me with a lot of pitting...I'm guessing this stuff would have been better served in just a few select areas, for major building. Live and learn...and swear, a lot.

The layer of regular Bondo filler fixed most of it and got me back on track, though it still took several more coats.









Nearly there...









































Enough angles? I'm proud of her.

Here's a couple more pictures showing the pod in place. I will end up decoupling the pod from the dash with felt/fabric and using butyl rope between the dash and A-pillar; I don't want unnecessary vibrations.









There's about 1/4" if clearance between the windshield and driver ring, so much for a grill.









I hope I can match all this work in the other pod...


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Looking like your gna want to pick ya up some of this works like butter fills holes make it smooth as well you know


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Looking like your gna want to pick ya up some of this works like butter fills holes make it smooth as well you know


Thanks, I've been looking for a light filler. Can't find anything local, looks like I'll have to get it online.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I use this on all my glass work it is great. Do you have an auto body supply store, where all the body shops get their paint and supplies, I used to work in one and I still buy my stuff there


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> I use this on all my glass work it is great. Do you have an auto body supply store, where all the body shops get their paint and supplies, I used to work in one and I still buy my stuff there


Not that I've been able to find. No worries though, Amazon Prime will have it here in two days.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

True that lol keep us all posted


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> True that lol keep us all posted


Hahaha! Get this:

I think to spite my comment about Amazon getting the items here in time...Someone stole the package! I live in an apartment building, UPS wrung the bell, I head downstairs shortly after and by the time I get down there, the package was gone...

I requested a replacement delivery with 1-day shipping...I hope they comply. Oh well, plenty of other things to work on...like building the driver side pod.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

helmetface00 said:


> Hahaha! Get this:
> 
> I think to spite my comment about Amazon getting the items here in time...Someone stole the package! I live in an apartment building, UPS wrung the bell, I head downstairs shortly after and by the time I get down there, the package was gone...
> 
> I requested a replacement delivery with 1-day shipping...I hope they comply. Oh well, plenty of other things to work on...like building the driver side pod.


Man that totally sucks wow


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Man that totally sucks wow


I've got to thank you for the suggestion for Evercoat 425...this stuff is amazing. I will say, it sets incredibly fast, but it's worked tremendously well!

Small update, but I'm slowly working on the second pod, while I finish the passenger side. There is some minor pitting and low spots, but it's nearly there.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

helmetface00 said:


> I've got to thank you for the suggestion for Evercoat 425...this stuff is amazing. I will say, it sets incredibly fast, but it's worked tremendously well!
> 
> Small update, but I'm slowly working on the second pod, while I finish the passenger side. There is some minor pitting and low spots, but it's nearly there.


I told ya that stuff is awesome kinda like biscuits and gravy


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Your getting it done keep it going this is looking great


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Your getting it done keep it going this is looking great


Thank you!

I still have to fabricate a belly to the bottom side of the pod, this way the mid will be sealed. After the belly is attached, I'll finish the visible surface area.

I scraped the first version of the driver's side pod, it wasn't coming out too clean and I figured I'd cut my losses. I'll likely start adding some short hair to it tomorrow. 

I also started hacking up the driver's side door. They originally housed 6x9's and had a lot of plastic blocking the soundwaves. So I completely cut the OEM grill out and I'll create a new enclosure for the 6.5's.

I think they'll fit nicely and it provides me with extra clearance from the window sliders. I'll also be able to beef up the space around the drivers to ensure they won't get kicked to ****.


















The misses goes out of town Saturday, that's when some real work will get done!


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

I've gone through many different versions of the door pods, as well as the dash pods. I am learning, to be more efficient mostly. And I finally scrapped that awful fleece and I am now using some speaker cloth- it's far superior. I also grabbed some vinyl for the doors, though, I need a little practice with using it cleanly.

Some update pics, wires go in this week.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

So you started over with the dash pods ? Have you thought about something more like this?


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Something on the same plane as the midrange. This is just a suggestion it will surely help in your tuning an the overall sound. It doesn't even have to be that extreme of a pitch unless you have that kinda room up top of the dash


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Also the 3 or 4 way stretch vinyl works great and for certain corners or difficult places the heat gun works wonders just don't burn it it doesn't take much


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> So you started over with the dash pods ? Have you thought about something more like this?


No, similar to the first design, with the mid pointing up and the tweeters outwards. My plight was wanting to hide the hardware for the mid range, so I had to build a large ring for the grill to mount upon. 

But, orienting the mid and tweeter in the same plan would make tuning easier you say? I might have to restart them, yet again, if that is the case. I might be able to get away with facing them directly at the driver/passenger.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

You do the sound deadening to the doors yet? I was talking to Don last week as well before my car got back. I have to give him some measurements so he can set me up with a similar setup like what you have with the CLV and rope and tiles. Just wanted to see how hard it was to hang the CLV and such.


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

LaserSVT said:


> You do the sound deadening to the doors yet? I was talking to Don last week as well before my car got back. I have to give him some measurements so he can set me up with a similar setup like what you have with the CLV and rope and tiles. Just wanted to see how hard it was to hang the CLV and such.


Unfortunately, no. I was hoping to throw the door card back in today, but ended up going another route with the door speakers. I'll *hopefully* get to it this coming weekend.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

helmetface00 said:


> No, similar to the first design, with the mid pointing up and the tweeters outwards. My plight was wanting to hide the hardware for the mid range, so I had to build a large ring for the grill to mount upon.
> 
> But, orienting the mid and tweeter in the same plan would make tuning easier you say? I might have to restart them, yet again, if that is the case. I might be able to get away with facing them directly at the driver/passenger.


I would just worry about the overall sound you might get with speakers configured that way it may work great I hate to see you put in all that work without listening to it though. The good thing about a pod is that it can always be rebuilt, I may not be seeing it right but your gna Fire the mid off of the windshield then have the tweeter kinda like the tombstones in a jeep?


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> I would just worry about the overall sound you might get with speakers configured that way it may work great I hate to see you put in all that work without listening to it though. The good thing about a pod is that it can always be rebuilt, I may not be seeing it right but your gna Fire the mid off of the windshield then have the tweeter kinda like the tombstones in a jeep?


You're spot on with how you're "seeing" my pod design. 

My issue with mocking up multiple locations, is that I am brand new to tuning and I am sure that it will sound like garbage right off the bat, in any configuration. But hell, that's still probably the best choice. 

Once I finish the door pods, I'll seal the midbass and doors and then start wiring. That way, I've got the option to manipulate the pods' orientation.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Sounds like you have a plan, for my taste tweeters firing like that are a lot strong for me but if you run them on their own amp you could tune them down. I'm not nit picking your build please don't take my suggestions wrong. I'm enjoying the build for sure


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Sounds like you have a plan, for my taste tweeters firing like that are a lot strong for me but if you run them on their own amp you could tune them down. I'm not nit picking your build please don't take my suggestions wrong. I'm enjoying the build for sure


No, please do! I appreciate all the feedback. 

Would there be much difference between the the order of the tweeter and mid, in relation to the windshield? 

For example, if you were looking at the pod: mid, tweeter, windshield, or tweeter, mid, windshield. 

Thanks again Bass.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

I've seen it done both ways, I prefer mid closest to the windshield and the tweeter in front, because I believe you can get a wider stage that way just personal preference


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

That's what I've read as well. 

I like the image you posted, I'll try some combinations as such.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

helmetface00 said:


> That's what I've read as well.
> 
> I like the image you posted, I'll try some combinations as such.


That is what I have in mind for my build I know things change during a build but that is definitely a great way to do the pods I think you'll keep your imaging good and it should be wide as well. Can't wait to see what's next


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Well, driver's door is complete-ish. I planned on putting the door card in tonight, but I was set back slightly.

Here are some images, showing the deadening job...Unfortunately, my tape measure seemed to..."malfunction" when I had set out to order my MLV. I might order some more and create a seam to finish the door sealing. However, the stock deadening is awesome, so I am not overly concerned.

CLD tile application. I followed a loose 25% coverage, per Don at SDS. The CLD you see in the image with the paper backing is stock. I had attempted to remove it, but it's on there...it'll work!

















Somewhere around this point, I dropped my phone and shattered the screen...That's when the clock struck beer:30 and I found a pretty funny snickers wrapper.









Resealed the stock moisture barrier with some butyl rope.

Here's where my tape measure got the best of me, eh.









CCF applied, several layers in some spots.









Here's a nutty 6x9 to 6.5" adapter. I had a lot of obstacles, hence the nutty design. I also had to double up on the 3/4" ply, to space the driver far enough away from the window track.










The adapter is currently drying with some bedliner applied.

Getting there....


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Are you putting the jl zr's there? Your gna want all the deadening you can get in and on that door even on the card that 8 is gna move everything, it'll sound great when your done though. Looking good man


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Are you putting the jl zr's there? Your gna want all the deadening you can get in and on that door even on the card that 8 is gna move everything, it'll sound great when your done though. Looking good man


8"? Haha 

It's a Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5"


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

helmetface00 said:


> 8"? Haha
> 
> It's a Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5"


My bad lol it's my day for a brain fart, even still the sls isn't a slouch on midbass


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> My bad lol it's my day for a brain fart, even still the sls isn't a slouch on midbass


Haha!

We've all been there. I'll add some more CCF where I can. The door card has a good deal of stock backing.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Were you able to get anything done this Halloween weekend


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Basshertz1 said:


> Were you able to get anything done this Halloween weekend


Few minor things got done...Been working far too much.

Finally closed up the driver's door. The weird baffle worked very well and sealed up nicely.

















Anyone think this pod's direction is blocked too much by the cluster? 










Here's the new pod, 


















More to come...


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

It looks like it clears fine I think it'll be good. Whenever you get a chance snap the same pic with the whole pod in there, looking good man


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Did you finish the truck and not post it lol I know how life gets in the way what's been happening


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Hey what happened to this build? I am interested to see how this one turns out


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## helmetface00 (May 29, 2011)

Okay, I'm back 

System is in and online! Sounds great, but there is still a great deal more of tuning to get out of the way.

There's a lot of little finishing touches that I still need to address, but I just had to get the damn thing in there started.

Much updates to come.


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## beak81champ (Oct 2, 2015)

Cool deal! Can't wait to see pics of finished pods and doors put back together.


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