# Advice on using old school Orion amps



## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

I have two old Orion amps that I would like to use with a system I am putting together. I have a Orion 2125sx and a Orion 240gx. I would like to use the 2125sx to power two (2) Stereo Integrity BM mkIII subwoofers. This amp is rated at 500 watts rms at 4 ohms X2 in mono mode. I am ordering the BM's now so I have some time to figure this out. The same system is going to have a set of the PPI 356 cs two-ways, thanks for the info DIY, and I would like to know if anyone thinks that bi-amping them with the 240gx is a good idea. It is rated at 40 watts rms at 4 ohms X2. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X993 headunit. This is a daily driver system in a F-150 extended cab pickup and extreme volume levels are not a priority. I do want good sound quality. I plan on retaining the PPI passive crossover if I can get by with the 240gx because I have no experience with active crossovers and want to protect the PPI tweeters. If I have to purchase a different amp for the PPI 356cs speakers then I would most likely make the jump to using the active cross over on the Kenwood HU. I also purchased a set of the Polk 6.5 coaxials rated for 60 watts rms at 4 ohms each that I might use as rear fill if I have to purchase a different amp. My questions are:
Will the Orion 2125sx handle two BM mkIII subs?
Will the Orion 240gx handle the PPI 356 cs two-ways if bi-amp wired using the stock PPI crossovers?
Would you expect the sound quality to suffer even if the output would be adequate?
If the 240gx is not usable and I have to purchase an amp, what would you recommend for the PPI 365cs speakers when sound quality is the only thing that matters? 
If I go with a new amp what about adding the Polk db 6.5 coaxials as rear fill?
What amp would you recommend to power the PPI 356 cs active and power the Polk db 6.5 active at the same time?
This truck has a factory towing package with a heavy duty charging system and I would like to get by with only doing the big three and quality wiring for the system.
I am a novice in regards to mobile audio and I can find only the original installation and owners manuals for these old Orion amps. I would appreciate any and all advice especially in regards to experience with these old amps. 

Thank you,

MoJoWales


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## KP (Nov 13, 2005)

The 2125 is 2 x 125 @ 4ohm at 12 volts. Expect around 150-160 at 14v. If extreme volume is not an importance the old Orions will do nicely.

K


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

500 watts is a decent amount of power for the subwoofers. 40 watts per channel is decent on the components too. You can't bi-amp them with just one amp though, and bi-wiring them doesn't really make much sense.


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## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. I have read that the 2125sx is rated for 125 rms at 4 ohms X2. The 500 watts that I was referring to is what is listed in the Orion installation manual pdf file that I found online and downloaded. On page 5 it states that in bridging mode the 2125 will deliver 500 watts bridged at 4 ohms. I am afraid that the pdf is a photo copy of the actual manual and I cannot copy and paste it here. It is located at http://www.devicemanuals.com/ and searching for Orion 2125sx or Orion 240gx. It recommends not going below a 2 ohm load on another page but I think that is in stereo mode. I am basically wanting to know if the 2125sx is a good fit for the BM mkIII's. And if sound quality will suffer using the 240gx for the highs and mids with bi-amping thus putting a 2 ohm load through the amp with 40 watts going to both the tweeter and mid-range of the PPI two-ways. I'm hopping that someone who has experience with these amps could let me know if the 240gx application in particular can be expected to perform well in this setup. If not can anyone take a stab at predicting what the results would be? I can wire it up, I will need all of the wiring for whatever amp combo I end up using, test and observe what it sounds like but if I know what to expect I will keep an eye out for another amp to buy. I greatly appreciate any and all advice. Thanks.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Running the Orion 240 bi-wired, not bi-amped because you can't bi-amp the speakers with a 2 channel amp, will not result in a 2 ohm load. It will be a 4 ohm load. There isn't much of a difference at all with bi-wiring vs just regular wiring to the passive crossover. Like I said earlier, 40 watts is a decent amount of power. I see no reason why that amp wouldn't power the PPI components just fine.


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## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

I was thinking, correct me if I am wrong, that by wiring the PPI components up in parallel from the 240gx that I could achieve adequate power to the set using the amp that I have. That would be using one amp to power the speakers in what the PPI manual refers to as bi-amp wiring. I am sorry for not make this clear or if it was understood and you are advising me that there would be no benefit. 
In regards to the BM mkIII and the 2125sx I would be wiring the speakers in parallel/series to achieve 250 watts per voice coil with the amp seeing 2 ohms, in theory at least. I am fresh off the boat when it comes to application in Mobile Audio so don't hesitate to inform me. 
Thank you.


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## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

I was writing the last post when you answered my question. Thank you. Like I said, I am very new to this.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

My only word of caution deals with the Orion GX series. When exposed to low voltage conditions, they used to blow FETs like there was no tomorrow. Just make sure your electrical system is up to snuff if you intend to use all this old school, class ab power.


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## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

I am doing the big three wiring modifications to a 1997 F-150 with the factory towing package. I will upgrade the battery if needed. There are no other aftermarket voltage draws on the system. I have determined that a 4 gauge power lead to my amp distribution block will be enough to power both the old Orions. Do you think that this falls in the safe range or should I just be looking at class D with the stock alternator and one battery? 
Thank you.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

MoJoWales said:


> I was thinking, correct me if I am wrong, that by wiring the PPI components up in parallel from the 240gx that I could achieve adequate power to the set using the amp that I have. That would be using one amp to power the speakers in what the PPI manual refers to as bi-amp wiring. I am sorry for not make this clear or if it was understood and you are advising me that there would be no benefit.
> In regards to the BM mkIII and the 2125sx I would be wiring the speakers in parallel/series to achieve 250 watts per voice coil with the amp seeing 2 ohms, in theory at least. I am fresh off the boat when it comes to application in Mobile Audio so don't hesitate to inform me.
> Thank you.


I used to own a set of a/d/s/ components that are what these PPI components actually are, they are a/d/s/ just rebadged as PPI. They have the ability to be bi-amped, meaning running 4 channels of power into both the mid and tweeter input on the crossover. With a 2 channel amp, you can just wire the two channels to the crossover like normal, or bi-wire it, meaning you are running two sets of speaker wire from each of the amps two channels then wiring those two sets to each input on the crossover, but that to me just wastes wire, it won't do anything beneficial.

I don't know what voice coils the subs have, but if they can be wired for a final load of 4 ohms, then yeah, run the amp in mono at 4 ohms for 500 watts of rated power. That should get pretty loud.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

MoJoWales said:


> I am doing the big three wiring modifications to a 1997 F-150 with the factory towing package. I will upgrade the battery if needed. There are no other aftermarket voltage draws on the system. I have determined that a 4 gauge power lead to my amp distribution block will be enough to power both the old Orions. Do you think that this falls in the safe range or should I just be looking at class D with the stock alternator and one battery?
> Thank you.


You should easily be able to power those amps from the stock electrical system assuming it's in good condition. 4 gauge is fine.

I ran a PPI A600.2 and an A200 in my old Jeep Grand Wagoneer with no problems with the stock (weak) electrical system.


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## MoJoWales (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks a ton guys. I have ideas on what will work but not having much experience with this is causing me to keep putting off the installation of the gear that I have due to doubt and thinking it to death. I can do my head unit install, the PPI components, and the amp wiring now and just wait for the BM's to arrive. I could spend a weekend just installing the sound deadening and baffles for the components in this truck. Not to mention I need to decide if I am going to build the PVC tweeter mounts discussed in another thread. I will be uncomfortable until I have some real world experience under my belt. Thanks for taking the time to drop some knowledge on me.


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