# Sub sounds bad, is it distortion, air leaking for the box, or over-excursion



## scott0482

I can't quite tell..
I think it is air coming from the box. The sub had been screwed in slightly crooked. I had it out of the box, put it back, and screwed it in straight, so that created 8 small leftover holes. It does have a rubber gasket between the mdf and the sub. (it's one of those q-logic boxes).

Maybe it is just distortion or over excursion, it seems like it is mechanical, or the box. but the extraneous noise is almost as loud as the bass itself.

It's an infinity 1030w sub in a Q-Logic .75 cube sealed box. Amp is a PPI 2100 (old school one, 400 watts) All bass boost and equalization is off.

I guess I am wondering if a couple small holes in a box can make it sound like crap. It also sounded worse before I took the Grille off off the box..

I will mess with it some more, but not tonight since it is 11 pm, and I don't need to be disturbing the neighbors..


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## BuickGN

If you push the sub in by hand, does it slowly come back or instantly come back?

When you push on it (from the center and gently), does it make a scratching sound?

Can you describe the noise a little better? Usually, a "clack" is over excursion.


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## Cruzer

if u think, or it ends up being the box, try silicone all the inside and the screw holes. just make sure to give it time to cure before putting sub back in(not sure if its true or not but i wouldnt risk it unless confirmed its safe)

when u turn gain down, or volume down for that matter, does it go away? if so it could be excursion or power problem. 

the box is perfect size and being sealed it should be able to handle the extra power np


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## scott0482

It has to be the box. I went out and did the push test, and it comes back out quickly.. but, if I push fast on the sub, I can actually hear air leaking out of the box.. (i can push it pretty fast and hard and get no scratching, so the sub is fine, and I have a spare if it isn't)

No scraping or anything.. I have the gain way down too.. it doesn't seem to matter where it is, but I also haven't had a chance to really experiment with it.

I know my liquid nails from 10 years ago is definitely dried up. I am sure I threw it away a long time ago. Is that what I should try again, or go with something different?


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## Cruzer

is liquid nails like wood glue or like silicone?

silicone is what i use to seal up holes after a box is already put together


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## audiobaun

I use silicone also..Liquid nails gets hard and brittle over time, while silicone gives .


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## Chaos

Silicone is the way to go, unless you really want to be thorough, and coat the entire inside of the box with fiberglass resin.


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## mos805

Its that stupid gasket around the opening of the Qlogic box, had the same problem with my Rockford sub in a Qlogic, the ring wasn't allowing it to get a full airtight seal and I could hear the sound of air escaping, took off that rubber seal and it made my sub sit flat and got rid of the noise.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

It all depends on WHAT's happening... If it's leaking around the sub, that's a simple fix... 

If the box is SPLIT at a seam, silicone isn't going to fix it...


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## scott0482

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> It all depends on WHAT's happening... If it's leaking around the sub, that's a simple fix...
> 
> If the box is SPLIT at a seam, silicone isn't going to fix it...


I am pretty sure it is leaking around the rubber gasket, as was mentioned earlier..
The box is solid. But it does have screw holes in the side from a distro block that had been screwed into it in the past..


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Ahh, yeah, no problem then..


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## Spyke

I'm impressed that you have had the same q-logic box for 10 years. It might be a good time to build a new box though. A sub will never sound as good as it could in a prefab.(even one that isn't leaking)


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Spyke said:


> I'm impressed that you have had the same q-logic box for 10 years. It might be a good time to build a new box though. A sub will never sound as good as it could in a prefab.(even one that isn't leaking)


 
Correction, a sub will sound JUST FINE in a pre-fab, if it's the proper requirements for the sub... 

A box, is a box, is a box, as long as it's solid, you'll never tell the difference between .75cf pre-fab and .75 custom... 

The only added benifit to custom is adding bracing and changing relative size... 

You aren't somehow changing the fact that there's .75cf of space..



Please think about your statements before you make them... 

I've got a Sony Xplod HU in my car I've had OVER 10yrs sucka...


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## minbari

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Correction, a sub will sound JUST FINE in a pre-fab, if it's the proper requirements for the sub...
> 
> A box, is a box, is a box, as long as it's solid, you'll never tell the difference between .75cf pre-fab and .75 custom...
> 
> The only added benifit to custom is adding bracing and changing relative size...
> 
> You aren't somehow changing the fact that there's .75cf of space..
> 
> .


X2...........prefabs arent always ideal because they dont match the driver. but if they do, then a custom box may not have anything over a prefab. (assuming it is built well.)


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## Spyke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Correction, a sub will sound JUST FINE in a pre-fab, if it's the proper requirements for the sub...


I disagree.


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> A box, is a box, is a box, as long as it's solid, you'll never tell the difference between .75cf pre-fab and .75 custom...


As long as it's solid, very good.


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> The only added benifit to custom is adding bracing and changing relative size...


You're learning! 


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> You aren't somehow changing the fact that there's .75cf of space..


 Hahaha, this is too funny


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Please think about your statements before you make them...


And please refrain from saying that a prefab box is the same as a properly built enclosure. Most of the time they are made from thinner than ideal materials. 3/4" mdf spec may be only 5/8" and prob not mdf. 


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I've got a Sony Xplod HU in my car I've had OVER 10yrs sucka...


Not talking about hu's here.


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## Spyke

minbari said:


> X2...........prefabs arent always ideal because they dont match the driver. but if they do, then a custom box may not have anything over a prefab. *(assuming it is built well.)*


That's the kicker. Most prefabs aren't very rigid. Usually when the manufacturer says 3/4" mdf it's something lower grade than that.


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## thomasluke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I've got a Sony Xplod HU in my car I've had OVER 10yrs sucka...



I loled:laugh: And possibly siged


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## scott0482

Spyke said:


> I'm impressed that you have had the same q-logic box for 10 years. It might be a good time to build a new box though. A sub will never sound as good as it could in a prefab.(even one that isn't leaking)


I got the PPI amp, 2 subs, a .75 cube box, a dual chambered "ported" box, and a distro block used for $80..
All I really cared about was the amp. 
I am going to eventually build a custom side-firing box into the side of my trunk.. but since I have this box that is the recommended sealed size for the sub, I decided I would test it out in different configurations to see if/how the sound changes before committing on a final design / location for everything.

If I get really crazy, I will get an IDQ, or maybe find a CDT sub (to match my comps). But it isn't worth it. This sub has "enough" bass for my needs, (that is until I get used to it and want more).

Ideally I want to do something like this:








I am not sure If I can really learn decent enough fiberglass skills to pull this off in a driveway with limited tools on my first try however..


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## scott0482

I got some DAP silicone, put it over the holes on the inside of the box, let it dry a few hours. Took off the rubber gasket thing. I screwed the sub directly into the box, some of the noise went away.. certain sounds I was hearing in the cabin of my car... but the sub still sounds bad.
It's like I am hearing the damn cone of the sub vibrate.. Maybe plastic subs sounds like this, and I am used to heavy paper ones..
It Buzzes..
So I got home, and swapped the sub out with the other identical one.. Same sound.
Then I swapped the source. I am using "balanced differential inputs" into the PPI amp, and an LOC into the other amp. 
So I put the sub amp on the LOC.. Still sounded the same. The front speakers don't make any sounds like that.

Here is a video where you can hear the buzzing. I wasn't sure if it would come through on a video from my phone, but it did.
Infinity 1030w - YouTube

I am going to hook it up to my other amp tomorrow and see what happens.


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## mos805

Hmm odd after seeing the video though my punch p3 made a similar sound and it had a plastic cone as well.. I thought it was a voice coil problem the whole time. Alls I know is my idq does not make a sound like that


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## Spyke

scott0482 said:


> I got the PPI amp, 2 subs, a .75 cube box, a dual chambered "ported" box, and a distro block used for $80..
> All I really cared about was the amp.
> I am going to eventually build a custom side-firing box into the side of my trunk.. but since I have this box that is the recommended sealed size for the sub, I decided I would test it out in different configurations to see if/how the sound changes before committing on a final design / location for everything.
> 
> If I get really crazy, I will get an IDQ, or maybe find a CDT sub (to match my comps). But it isn't worth it. This sub has "enough" bass for my needs, (that is until I get used to it and want more).
> 
> Ideally I want to do something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure If I can really learn decent enough fiberglass skills to pull this off in a driveway with limited tools on my first try however..


That's def a good deal. The infinity subs aren't bad. I bought 2 a while back for i think $40 each on clearance, though mine are the 1052w's. They should do really well in .75. Have you tried the other sub to see if it sounds better. The one other thing that I can think of as far as the noise you're hearing is the voice coil may have separated from the cone. A leaking box shouldn't cause a mechanical noise as you described it. It is possible depending on how bad it leaking to be bottoming the sub out due to over excursion. I don't mean to insult you, but if the air in the box is not acting as a spring to control cone movement then it will take far less power to bottom out and it will indeed sound like crap.


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## Spyke

scott0482 said:


> I got some DAP silicone, put it over the holes on the inside of the box, let it dry a few hours. Took off the rubber gasket thing. I screwed the sub directly into the box, some of the noise went away.. certain sounds I was hearing in the cabin of my car... but the sub still sounds bad.
> It's like I am hearing the damn cone of the sub vibrate.. Maybe plastic subs sounds like this, and I am used to heavy paper ones..
> It Buzzes..
> So I got home, and swapped the sub out with the other identical one.. Same sound.
> Then I swapped the source. I am using "balanced differential inputs" into the PPI amp, and an LOC into the other amp.
> So I put the sub amp on the LOC.. Still sounded the same. The front speakers don't make any sounds like that.
> 
> Here is a video where you can hear the buzzing. I wasn't sure if it would come through on a video from my phone, but it did.
> Infinity 1030w - YouTube
> 
> I am going to hook it up to my other amp tomorrow and see what happens.


I didn't see this before my last post. I think you have 2 bad subs or a bad amp(money's on the subs though) Try connecting to a different sub or even a house speaker and see if the noise follows. If it does I would fault the amp.


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## scott0482

I am going to swap subs with my friend tomorrow.. if his sub sounds bad in my car, and my sub sounds good in his car, then it is the amp or something in the source signal.

If my sub sounds bad in his car, then it is the sub or box.

Both subs had refurb stickers on the bottom.. (I tore them off because they were blocking the voice coil vents)

They make bad sounds a low volumes with the gains turned way down. 

I may get crazed and bring the sub in and plug it into the stereo in my room and see what happens.. 

Those sub do get low especially being 10 inch in a small sealed box. I read that they would have an almost flat response down to about 25hz.. which got me excited and eager to try one out.
I know I could get an efficient 15 in a large ported box and it will be another ~10db louder, but I want a usable trunk and no need to disturb people in the cars around me or draw attention to myself.
I am possibly going to get the NoAccesory Cydia tweak for my iPhone and put some test tones on it an mess with it.. NoAccSplash Info Page | LEi Mobile then experiment. 

I also want to try a CD and see what happens. Maybe my iPod adapter is messed up..

Spyke, where do you live in MD?


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Spyke said:


> I disagree.
> 
> As long as it's solid, very good.
> 
> You're learning!
> 
> Hahaha, this is too funny
> 
> And please refrain from saying that a prefab box is the same as a properly built enclosure. Most of the time they are made from thinner than ideal materials. 3/4" mdf spec may be only 5/8" and prob not mdf.
> 
> Not talking about hu's here.


Please explain to me how .75cf in a pre-fab is different than .75 in a "custom" box... 

If you "think" you can actually "hear" the difference, well, you're a fool... as long as the box is solid in construction, YOU, nore ANYONE else, is going to hear a difference... 

Once again I'll say it, a pre-fab is NO DIFFERENT than a custom box, barring the possibility of better construction... .75cf is .75cf regardless of construction... 

I actually used to build some of the best "pre-fabs" on the market in the early/mid 90's, all designed around Orion Cobalt/XT/XTR (not the whole market) So I most certinly know what go into the "typical" pre-fab and have watched them evolve and change over time.. Some good, some ****.. 

I could build a box out of 1/2" MDF and one out of 1.5" MDF and I guarantee you will not hear a difference... not in YOUR car... ESPECIALLY not going down the effing road... which, is what MOST people are doing MOST times in their cars... 



AFA the HU is concerned, it's the matter of fact that people throw a generalization "blanket" over things, preconcieveing that something isn't "good" based on a notion given to them by someone else in most cases... Not even personal expierence

My Sony Xplod HU, something that most would consider garbage, has been serving my DD for over 10yrs... Never have I had issue with it... 

THAT IS THE POINT...


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## malice

Ive always built my own box and its better than prefab. 3/4 MDF with bracing and screws every 4 ". You don't get that in a prefab. Prefabs look nicer though. I suck at carpeting.


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## Spyke

scott0482 said:


> I am going to swap subs with my friend tomorrow.. if his sub sounds bad in my car, and my sub sounds good in his car, then it is the amp or something in the source signal.
> If my sub sounds bad in his car, then it is the sub or box.


If your sub sounds good in his car then it would be something in your signal chain causing the problem. Hopefully it sounds the same in his car. Then it will be pretty straight forward. Bad sub. If not we'll go from there.



scott0482 said:


> Both subs had refurb stickers on the bottom.. (I tore them off because they were blocking the voice coil vents)
> 
> They make bad sounds a low volumes with the gains turned way down.
> 
> I may get crazed and bring the sub in and plug it into the stereo in my room and see what happens..





scott0482 said:


> Those sub do get low especially being 10 inch in a small sealed box. I read that they would have an almost flat response down to about 25hz.. which got me excited and eager to try one out.


Don't get too exited. They are decent subs but flat down to 25 may be a stretch. 


scott0482 said:


> I know I could get an efficient 15 in a large ported box and it will be another ~10db louder, but I want a usable trunk and no need to disturb people in the cars around me or draw attention to myself.
> I am possibly going to get the NoAccesory Cydia tweak for my iPhone and put some test tones on it an mess with it.. NoAccSplash Info Page | LEi Mobile then experiment.
> 
> I also want to try a CD and see what happens. Maybe my iPod adapter is messed up..
> 
> Spyke, where do you live in MD?


Northern Carroll county.


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## Spyke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Please explain to me how .75cf in a pre-fab is different than .75 in a "custom" box...


Never said that. Read back through the post.



Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> If you "think" you can actually "hear" the difference, well, you're a fool... as long as the box is solid in construction, YOU, nore ANYONE else, is going to hear a difference...


Again, You are correct. AS long as the box is solid there will be no difference. 


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Once again I'll say it, a pre-fab is NO DIFFERENT than a custom box, barring the possibility of better construction... .75cf is .75cf regardless of construction...


Better construction and the ability to match the enclosure size to the sub.


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I actually used to build some of the best "pre-fabs" on the market in the early/mid 90's, all designed around Orion Cobalt/XT/XTR (not the whole market) So I most certinly know what go into the "typical" pre-fab and have watched them evolve and change over time.. Some good, some ****..


I'm talking about the **** ones. Not saying that some prefabs aren't good, but given the choice of building a custom box from good materials for around $40, buying a **** prefab for $100, or buying a really nice prefab for maybe $150. Which would you do? Still, a nice prefab may not match the sub quite right as far as volume.


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I could build a box out of 1/2" MDF and one out of 1.5" MDF and I guarantee you will not hear a difference... not in YOUR car... ESPECIALLY not going down the effing road... which, is what MOST people are doing MOST times in their cars...


 Because you want the box to be as resonant as possible right?


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> AFA the HU is concerned, it's the matter of fact that people throw a generalization "blanket" over things, preconcieveing that something isn't "good" based on a notion given to them by someone else in most cases... Not even personal expierence
> 
> My Sony Xplod HU, something that most would consider garbage, has been serving my DD for over 10yrs... Never have I had issue with it...
> 
> THAT IS THE POINT...


Nothing wrong with sony. Are you gonna contribute or just jump all over me like i've seen you do to other people on this forum. You could have approached this whole thing a little different is all i'm saying.


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## scott0482

Found out what the problem was.. (My Dad actually thought if it when I was talking to him on the phone about it a little earlier. He said it happened to him once in the 60's)

Tinsel Lead Slap..

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20861315/IMG_0511.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20861315/IMG_0512.JPG

Now How can I fix it? Bend them away from the cone, right?
Or felt on the back side of the cone where they hit.

I know that I can bend them too much, or they will touch the basket and create a short.

The configuration, etc of it all looks "stock" from the pictures I can find on the internet, so I don't think they got bent. Maybe it is just a bad design?



Spyke said:


> Northern Carroll county.


Ok.. I used to live in Silver Spring, literally across the street from DC.
I was just wondering if you were local..


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## Oliver

I don't own this sub, but have had some from TC SOUNDS.

This one won't have "LEAD" slap > 

Custom built TC Sounds LMS 10" Subwoofer | eBay




> This subwoofer uses the TC Sounds Linear Motor System (LMS) technology.
> Paper cone with high roll rubber surround


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## scott0482

I am content with the sub I have no, no reason to drop $150 on a new sub, if I can fix what I have now for practically free.
I know that many subs have the leads woven into the spiders, etc.
If I did get a new sub, I am thinking it would be an IDQ or IDMAX for no other reason than, I used to want one back in the day.


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## Spyke

Oh crap...are those marks on the cone from the leads hitting? Those should be ring terminals that connect the leads to the terminals. I'm pretty sure mine are on the 1052's. Loosen the nut and rotate the terminals towards the outsides. Test it before you put it back in. Glad you found the prob.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Spyke said:


> I'm impressed that you have had the same q-logic box for 10 years. It might be a good time to build a new box though. A sub will never sound as good as it could in a prefab.(even one that isn't leaking)





Spyke said:


> Never said that. Read back through the post.
> 
> *Actually you did, see above...*
> 
> Again, You are correct. AS long as the box is solid there will be no difference.
> 
> *So why should he build a new box? *
> 
> Better construction and the ability to match the enclosure size to the sub.
> 
> *It's worked for 10yrs, why fix it.. *
> 
> I'm talking about the **** ones. Not saying that some prefabs aren't good, but given the choice of building a custom box from good materials for around $40, buying a **** prefab for $100, or buying a really nice prefab for maybe $150. Which would you do? Still, a nice prefab may not match the sub quite right as far as volume.
> 
> *What's a Q-Logic cost? Is cost a representation of build quality now? because you can get some REALLY cheap 3/4 MDF enclosures from PartsExpress... *
> 
> *Solid is solid and guess what, you aren't there to say... Guess what else, YOU couldn't hear the difference..*
> 
> 
> Because you want the box to be as resonant as possible right?
> 
> *Because YOU COULDN'T HEAR THE DIFFERENCE.. Not in a car, not at sub frequencies and certinly NOT GOING DOWN THE ROAD.. *
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with sony. Are you gonna contribute or just jump all over me like i've seen you do to other people on this forum. You could have approached this whole thing a little different is all i'm saying.


 
I have been contributing, the post was done and over till you decided to chime in, the problem was solved, end of story...

But no, you decide to chime in with NOTHING but riticule for the guy owning a "pre-fab" box... 



Spyke said:


> I'm impressed that you have had the same q-logic box for 10 years. It might be a good time to build a new box though. A sub will never sound as good as it could in a prefab.(even one that isn't leaking)


You input wasn't needed and YOU are trying to tell ME i'm not helping... 

THEN you proceed to argue with me points of construction..!! 

I used to work in a shop BUILDING PRE-FABS... I've built more boxes than you've encountered in your life... 

So right about the time you start acting like a ****ing pissant DON'T... 












****ing NOOBs... GOD...


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## Spyke

Aww. Did I hurt your feelings. THIS is what you contributed.

"It all depends on WHAT's happening... If it's leaking around the sub, that's a simple fix...

If the box is SPLIT at a seam, silicone isn't going to fix it... "

"Ahh, yeah, no problem then.. "

YOU HAVE CONTRIBUTED NOTHING TO THIS THREAD. You have done NOTHING but attack me for suggesting a different course of action. Get a life dude. Next time you get all butthurt about something just let it go, instead of all this juvenile behavior. Have a nice day


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## Spyke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I have been contributing, the post was done and over till you decided to chime in, the problem was solved, end of story...


Umm. No...the problem hadn't been solved yet. 


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> But no, you decide to chime in with NOTHING but riticule for the guy owning a "pre-fab" box...


 Wasn't criticizing anyone. If that's how you interpreted it then that's your problem 



Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> You input wasn't needed and YOU are trying to tell ME i'm not helping...


Mine was needed far more than yours was.


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> THEN you proceed to argue with me points of construction..!!
> 
> I used to work in a shop BUILDING PRE-FABS... I've built more boxes than you've encountered in your life...


I don't care about you crappy summer job 20 years ago. Is that where you learned that enclosure walls should be as thin as possible?



Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> So right about the time you start acting like a ****ing pissant DON'T...


I don't think ANYONE reading this would call ME the piss ant. 


Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> ****ing NOOBs... GOD...


Have you fixed that noise in your car yet? If it were mine it would have been fixed long ago and I wouldn't have been on here whining about it for freaking two weeks. I'm having a great time with you btw. LMFAO!!!!Mutha.:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## scott0482

I fixed the problem, for now..

I was on craiglist last night and saw a guy nearby selling an Alpine HU, MRV-F300 amp, and Soundstream SPL sub for $75.

I went and tested the sub and amp, and gave him $50 for them.










This sub is almost twice as loud as that Infinity and much more musical. Not sure how it can pull it off with 6.6mm x-max, but this is one of the old-school Soundstream subs before they were sold off to the Chinese.

Should I try to fix the inverted dustcap, or just leave it?

I am going to now mess around with the other 2 subs in my house and see if I can get them to sound good. Otherwise I may just flip them on craigslist.

Now, back to the box question discussion... haha... 
I think it is in an approx 1 cubic ft box.. it is not much bigger than the one the Infinity is in.. 

I found the PDF here: www.soundstream.com/manuals/sbw/sp101215/sp101215.pdf


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## Spyke

That's a damn good deal. Is it a 12"? Looks like a 12. Leave the dustcap, I assume you mean that it's crushed in. It will not affect the sound, just looks. You should download winisd. It's a speaker/sub modeling program that's very useful. I use it quite a bit even when i'm not planning on building anything. It can give you some insight as to why subs need different sized enclosures and what happens to the sound when a box is too big or too small. Just modeled that sub and it will perform very well in a 1cu ft box with an f3 of 58hz. The infinity should have been in a slightly bigger box. This is what I was trying to say before I got sidetracked. Prob more like a 1.2cu ft. That's prob why you like the sound of this better.


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## scott0482

Spyke said:


> That's a damn good deal. Is it a 12"? Looks like a 12. Leave the dustcap, I assume you mean that it's crushed in. It will not affect the sound, just looks. You should download winisd. It's a speaker/sub modeling program that's very useful. I use it quite a bit even when i'm not planning on building anything. It can give you some insight as to why subs need different sized enclosures and what happens to the sound when a box is too big or too small. Just modeled that sub and it will perform very well in a 1cu ft box with an f3 of 58hz. The infinity should have been in a slightly bigger box. This is what I was trying to say before I got sidetracked. Prob more like a 1.2cu ft. That's prob why you like the sound of this better.


I used to have WinISD about 10 years ago. I actually downloaded it about a month ago and couldn't get it to work right in Windows 7.
Are there no other programs that do that same thing that are newer and work better?
I have been reading a little on those Soundstream SPL 12 subs. People like them because they sound good in everything. . When I think of SPL, I am thinking huge slot ported boxes burping test tones.. But this is a pretty musical sub..

Ultimately, I want to build a small sealed enclosure in the side of the trunk, and not have a box Floating around in the trunk. So I will need a sub that can perform well in a small sealed.. This sub supposedly will still perform adequately in 0.5 cubes... 
Aslo, I have a Kicker Solobaris s12c (Round, before they made them square) in my friend's garage in Ohio. I may try to re-claim that as I recall they did very well in small sealed enclosures as well.
We built a large 5 cubic foot "coffee table" box back in college (didn't have quite the drive to build a "wicked one") and used those in there for a long time. One has a torn surround though.


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## Cruzer

im using winisd win 7 64 bit no problems

u can try unibox, people who build home theater towers use it


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Spyke said:


> Umm. No...the problem hadn't been solved yet.
> 
> Wasn't criticizing anyone. If that's how you interpreted it then that's your problem
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was needed far more than yours was.
> 
> 
> I don't care about you crappy summer job 20 years ago. Is that where you learned that enclosure walls should be as thin as possible?
> 
> 
> I don't think ANYONE reading this would call ME the piss ant.
> 
> 
> Have you fixed that noise in your car yet? If it were mine it would have been fixed long ago and I wouldn't have been on here whining about it for freaking two weeks. I'm having a great time with you btw. LMFAO!!!!Mutha.:laugh::laugh::laugh:


 
****ing tool...


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## Spyke

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> ****ing tool...


Ouch..You hurt my feelings. Here's the thing Mr. Aaron, If you had just said that you disagree with me then I would have been able to explain what I meant. But no, you do what you always do on here and completely flip out with your high and mighty attitude. You now what I meant by a custom box. Why the hell would you build a custom box that's the same size as the prefab you already have, That's just stupid and you're the one that started asking that. The benefit of a custom box is the ability to match the enclosure with the driver. Believe it or not, not every 10" sounds good in a .75cu ft and not every 12" in a 1cu ft. If you are happy just accepting what the manufacturers say then fine, but don't **** on me for suggesting that someone learn something about box design. You may also not believe this, but thicker walls and more solid construction do make a difference. If it didn't then why not make enclosures out of balsa wood? And as far as what you were saying about people ****ting on sony because of it's reputation or what people said about it. Weren't you doing the same thing when you said "****ing noobs...GOD"? You related my post count and join date and equated them to me not knowing anything. I don't claim to know everything but it sure seems like you do. Despite everything I have nothing against you. If you have a problem with me, I really don't care. Makes no difference.


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## Spyke

scott0482 said:


> I used to have WinISD about 10 years ago. I actually downloaded it about a month ago and couldn't get it to work right in Windows 7.
> Are there no other programs that do that same thing that are newer and work better?
> I have been reading a little on those Soundstream SPL 12 subs. People like them because they sound good in everything. . When I think of SPL, I am thinking huge slot ported boxes burping test tones.. But this is a pretty musical sub..
> 
> Ultimately, I want to build a small sealed enclosure in the side of the trunk, and not have a box Floating around in the trunk. So I will need a sub that can perform well in a small sealed.. This sub supposedly will still perform adequately in 0.5 cubes...
> Aslo, I have a Kicker Solobaris s12c (Round, before they made them square) in my friend's garage in Ohio. I may try to re-claim that as I recall they did very well in small sealed enclosures as well.
> We built a large 5 cubic foot "coffee table" box back in college (didn't have quite the drive to build a "wicked one") and used those in there for a long time. One has a torn surround though.


Try troubleshooting compatibility. I'm using winisd on 7. 

It doesn't do great in a .5cu. Slight hump at 100hz and f3 of 65. But of course that all changes with your cars acoustics. If you want a sub for a really small box look at the dayton mk3 10". F3 of 50 in a .35cu! Little pricey though. Good luck.


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## mos805

scott0482 said:


> I fixed the problem, for now..
> 
> I was on craiglist last night and saw a guy nearby selling an Alpine HU, MRV-F300 amp, and Soundstream SPL sub for $75.
> 
> I went and tested the sub and amp, and gave him $50 for them.


Damn thats an incredible deal, over here someone would prabably be asking around $200 for all that.. wish we had some deals here like that everyone just wants ridiculus cash for crap here


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