# Interesting new wire connectors - possibly good for car audio



## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Hey guys (and gals)

A couple of days ago I got an email from Wirecare.com with a new wire connector product that looks interesting. I haven't looked into it too much but figured I'd share the link here and let anyone interested in them be their own judge. 

Offhand, I might get a couple of them so I can simply unclip my kick panels and pull the whole things out at one time - using the gold plated, 14-16ga versions - possible with boots. 

Here is the link: Deutsch DT

And here is a quick pic:










There've been a few different conversations on here about suitable connectors for speaker wires and other wires in the car environment, so rather than reply to each thread, I'm just posting this here under a new topic. 

What do you all think?

Less


----------



## tomrspears (May 2, 2009)

less said:


> Hey guys (and gals)
> 
> A couple of days ago I got an email from Wirecare.com with a new wire connector product that looks interesting. I haven't looked into it too much but figured I'd share the link here and let anyone interested in them be their own judge.
> 
> ...


i see them on the engines i work on at work. there very small and i dont think they would be to good.


----------



## 1zach4 (Feb 13, 2008)

when I worked as an electrical installer for a firetruck manufacturer we used these types of connectors all of the time due to nfpa compliance. I don't really care for them but they work well


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Reminds me of GM Weatherpak connectors.
I think I'll just use Dean's Ultra Connectors...

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html

Jay


----------



## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> Reminds me of GM Weatherpak connectors.
> I think I'll just use Dean's Ultra Connectors...
> 
> Deans - Plugs
> ...


The Deans are nice since they have less resistance than 12 gauge wire.


----------



## katodevin (Feb 14, 2008)

I thought I was the only one who used Deans!!!! Nice. I wish they made a monster sized one that we could use for main power/ground.


----------



## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

katodevin said:


> I thought I was the only one who used Deans!!!! Nice. I wish they made a monster sized one that we could use for main power/ground.


Have you tried writing (not emailing) the CEO of the company with a product suggestion? I have had it work before. They may have no idea there is a car audio market.


----------



## meelo (Jul 2, 2007)

I love WS deans i use it on my RC cars, very good engagement and low resistance. I don't care much for the molex type ones, I find in my work they aren't very good for transferring high speed signals....however having said that this may not apply...


----------



## Buff (Apr 17, 2006)

I tried contacting Dean's to buy in bulk for my personal competition cars and they would not even accomodate that, so I doubt they are going to start building custom.

The connectios the OP posted are the same that BMW uses on many new vehicles. They are AWESOME!


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

fyi if you want some power wire connectors ive seen someone use a connector from a golft cart before...









Power Connector, Forklift/UPS/golf Car Connector - Suzhou Industrial Park Dostar Technology Co., Ltd.


----------



## 240sxguy (May 28, 2009)

Those^^ are available through parts express. I used one to wire up a winch. Worked great.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

240sxguy said:


> Those^^ are available through parts express. I used one to wire up a winch. Worked great.


Anderson powerpole line


----------



## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

I love the Neutrik Speakon Connects. (Parts Express: Featured Categories). These things are friggin awesome, I can hang 250lbs off of them with no problems.... And are disconnected in half a second. Just pull the gray sleeve


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

HELP! 

Is there some secret method to getting those PowerPole connectors together? Seems like I need 3 hands and it has to be perfect the first time, otherwise I'm screwed. Is there a tool or something I'm missing, because these connectors have been a NIGHTMARE for me to assemble today. 

I bought them to replace the Molex connectors I used previously, but if these are honestly this much of a PITA I'm not using them again.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

What are you having problems with? Getting the contact into the shell?


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

chad said:


> What are you having problems with? Getting the contact into the shell?


Yup. I can usually get the contact in most of the way on the first push, but getting it that last 1/32 of an inch is a pain. Either the contact goes all the way into the shell and rests correctly over the spring lip on the first try, or it doesn't go all the way in and I have to try to press on the back of the contact with a flat-head on one side, and push down on the spring clip on the other side. It's that routine that has the tips of my fingers raw right now.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done. 

Once it's together, see the hole for a pin to keep it from coming apart? A paper Q-tip stick cut to length slips right in and stays. I try to stay away from metal roll-pins in those.


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

chad said:


> Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done. QUOTE]
> 
> Maybe that's my problem. The wiring I'm using is Dayton 16 ga, and it only fills about 0.5-0.75% of the connector, so the wire actually bends if I try to push on that. The insulation is the same O.D. as the connector though, which is why it is not easy to get a screwdriver to stay on the metal connector as I'm pushing.
> I almost thought of making a pushing tool that was basically a flat-head screwdriver bent into a half-moon shape so it might sit on the contact better as I'm pressing.


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

chad said:


> Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done.


Maybe that's my problem. The wiring I'm using is Dayton 16 ga, and it only fills about 0.5-0.75% of the connector, so the wire actually bends if I try to push on that. The insulation is the same O.D. as the connector though, which is why it is not easy to get a screwdriver to stay on the metal connector as I'm pushing. 
I almost thought of making a pushing tool that was basically a flat-head screwdriver bent into a half-moon shape so it might sit on the contact better as I'm pressing.


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

Wow. I miss the auto-dupe feature so much I created my own... :-/


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

94VG30DE said:


> Maybe that's my problem. The wiring I'm using is Dayton 16 ga, and it only fills about 0.5-0.75% of the connector, so the wire actually bends if I try to push on that. The insulation is the same O.D. as the connector though, which is why it is not easy to get a screwdriver to stay on the metal connector as I'm pushing.
> I almost thought of making a pushing tool that was basically a flat-head screwdriver bent into a half-moon shape so it might sit on the contact better as I'm pressing.


I actually made that tool out of a Freebie PE screwdriver and it works well



94VG30DE said:


> Wow. I miss the auto-dupe feature so much I created my own... :-/



LOL


----------



## geom_tol (Jul 9, 2007)

The Deutsch DT connectors are used on a lot of industrial and marine engines and other mobile applications.
They should work really well. They're sealed and very vibration proof.
I have them on my amp inputs and outputs.

Before they were only sold through one distributor afaik, if you can order them on the internet now in low qqts it's good.

You do need a special crimping tool to get nice crimps.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

ya i've never messed with those power pole connectors but they sound like a bit of a ***** to work with. good luck man


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

back up there...

guys, I am looking at the two options of the neutrik connectors or the DT connectors. 

Regarding the neutrik speakon connectors, are "poles" simply the amount of contacts? I'm assuming you can buy a single connector that has up to 8 inputs (poles) and then rock that single connector to house all 4 sets of 14/16g wires, if you wanted to?
Suggestions on a specific version to use?

Trying to make sure I understand this correctly. If I can tie all my wires into a single connector/disconnect then it would really make installs a snap. 


Anyone had a chance to use the DT connectors? 
https://www.wirecare.com/deutschDT.asp?selectedContacts=6&theSeries=DT
The site above has them coming as a connection set, rather than purchasing the pieces separately.
The one bad thing is that it seems you have to have a special crimping tool. 


Anyone care to shed some light on either option? I'm ready to purchase asap.


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

skip the DT connectors and go with Anderson powerpole.










any shape or size you need. (the connectors slide together) the connectors in the picture is 4 of them slid together...

easy as heck to put together and affordable.

I soldered mine, then pushed them in and it worked like a charm.


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

link to location you bought them from?


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

Anderson Powerpole Powerpoles 30A Connectors, 25 Pack - eBay (item 120447715795 end time Aug-12-09 11:06:46 PDT)


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

There is a trick to soldering them, till you get good at it you may want to have a small file around


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

yup I definitely had to file extra solder off a couple of mine. By the time I did my whole front stage though I had it figured out pretty well. 

For the ones I did on the bench, I clamped my pocket screwdriver into the bench vise, and then used my other two hands to guide the plastic shroud on while keeping the wire in the right spot. This seemed to work much better.


----------



## Zakerid (Apr 30, 2007)

TowerHobbies.com | DuraTrax Powerpole Connector (20)

tower will send you discount emails as well.


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Some of these suggestions seem to me to be going toward the typical fashioned quick slides. I already use those in my install. I’m liking the suggestions by the OP simply because it’s an all in one deal, it appears. Just crimp all conductors on, slide tab into place and you now have a single break for all conductors. If that’s how it works, then that’s what I’m after. Otherwise, I’ll stick to the bulk insulated quick slides I bought from HD a while back and still have 50+ of each.


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

chad said:


> There is a trick to soldering them, till you get good at it you may want to have a small file around


explain. I never had any problems, I just heated it and let the solder flow into the connector from the front.


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Some of these suggestions seem to me to be going toward the typical fashioned quick slides. I already use those in my install. I’m liking the suggestions by the OP simply because it’s an all in one deal, it appears. Just crimp all conductors on, slide tab into place and you now have a single break for all conductors. If that’s how it works, then that’s what I’m after. Otherwise, I’ll stick to the bulk insulated quick slides I bought from HD a while back and still have 50+ of each.


once you put the powerpoles together, the plugs becomes a single disconnect.

you get 2 plugs, of whatever shape/size you want, that slide into each other. you don't have to take the individual connectors off ever again.


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

do you have to solder? I don't own a soldering station and really don't want to buy one right now. yea yea... blah blah... I don't own one... let's move on.


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

I don't think you have to solder. But it might help stiffen up smaller-dia wire so that it is easier to insert into the plastic housing. The crimp seems to be pretty solid. I actually crimp then solder, but that's because I'm a paranoid crazy person


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

All my questions have been answered:
http://www.flyrc.com/articles/using_powerpole_1.shtml

^ great power pole resource showing connection, wire colors, and sizes needed for various guage wires.


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

you don't have to solder. 

I crimp, THEN solder. My radio shack soldering iron works good enough for soldering something like 14 awg


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

falkenbd said:


> explain. I never had any problems, I just heated it and let the solder flow into the connector from the front.


You gotta use THIN solder and preferably not the "no clean stuff" And yes, heat and flow into the stop holes on the top of the slug. It's not as bad with smaller dia wire as it is with say, 10Ga, and I also find it handy to strip long and fold the thin stuff in half before inserting. NOT increasing the diameter of the connecting element AT ALL is key to getting them in smoothly.


----------



## fallbrookchris (Feb 13, 2009)

another great connector from the R/C world is made by Traxxas part# 3060 that can be had from tower hobbies part# LXSDB9 for $4 a pair, they IMO are slightly better than Dean's plugs however I use them both to help not mix up different wires when running multiply channels through one area, I have 25+ R/C's so I have some experience with these products other than car audio


----------

