# subs cut off at high volume but works fine on bench test help please



## swong46 (Sep 25, 2009)

Hey, so my friend is running a Hifonics BXI 2006D with 2 DC lvl 3's with a total load at 1 ohm. It is hooked up to the factory sub outputs with a LOC. 

The problem is that when he turns the volume up, the subs stop playing. The protection light does not go on, but I do hear slight clipping right before it happens.

BUT, when I bench test it, I power these things hard and it runs just fine.

So I am guessing it is a bad ground on the car? What do you guys think?


----------



## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Lack of Power 

4000 WATT MONSTER AMP BY HIFONICS + 18dB BASS BOOST

shove some big wires into the feed to the amp for power and ground [ probably one ought = 1/0 ].

get a capacitor to connect inline before amplifier.

get a battery with the most power output and an alternator that can supply the necessary juice to run the whole setup


----------



## swong46 (Sep 25, 2009)

I am using 1/0 now, will upgrading the ground and alt to battery wire be enough?


----------



## Salad Fingers (Jun 14, 2009)

This happens while driving, or car running, or car off, or all the time, or... 

Yea, you need to make sure that your ground to the amp is at least the same gauge as the power, that it is as short as possible, and that it is making solid contact to a spot that has absolutely no paint or anything between the ring terminal and the metal. That is general rule of thump across the board, but things change quite a bit for an amp that size. Drill a hole in the floor and use one of these...

Stinger PG34 PRO GROMMET up to 1/0ga, 1 O.D. - Stinger Electronics - Icom, Laird, Pulse/Larsen, Polyphaser - Kollman Radio Electronics

... to run your 1/0+ ground strait to the frame (aain, makng sure that you are making contact with bare metal. Also, and I hope that this goes without saying, but you better be using an ANL or mini-ANL fuse holder with a fuse in it that is the correct size for the amp. Then buy the biggest, best battery you can buy for under the hood. Then, do the same for the rear (following the same rules as did with the amp). Then, buy the highest output alternator that you can get for the vehicle. Somewhere pretty early in all this mess you should upgrade the power wire from the alternator to the battery, alternator to ground, and battery to ground wires to at least the same size wire you are running to the back. Then, you'll have done everything that needs to be done to be able to use the amount of power that amp can deliver. Otherwise, you're just trying to empty your pool out with a straw. 

I hope this was at least of some help.


----------



## dougelam (Apr 24, 2009)

Like Salad said, the ground is just as important as the power side but missed by most. The battery is the true ground, the engine is mounted to the frame with rubber and does not transfer ground and the same for the body. Make sure all three are grounded with large wires.


----------



## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

^This is a 4 week thread.....


----------



## dougelam (Apr 24, 2009)

It is archived yes, when it is brought up in a search which is recommended for newcomers it should have all the info related to the original post.


----------

