# 2014 Silverado Crew Cab Z71 LTZ



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

I recently bought a new truck and got to looking on-line to see what other people have done to these trucks... and man, was I impressed with the work that Musicar Northwest did on one of their customers trucks. (Their build is HERE.) That was my inspiration to try and build a curved sub box... so here goes:

The first thing that I had to do was extend the fence and table on my tiny table saw. (I'd like to buy a new one, but I did this just to see if I could...) Anyway, I used some 1 1/4" angle iron, 1" angle iron, and 1" square tubing stock to make the table extension and fence assembly. 










Now I can cut up to 34 1/2" wide on there... more than enough for what I need on this build.

I took some measurements under my rear seat where I plan on mounting my subs. The box is 55 1/2" wide, about 16" deep front to back, and varies in thickness between the floor and the rear seat from about 5" to 7.5" I think? The floor is relatively flat back there, but the center 'hump' where the driveshaft runs pops up about 3/4" or so... perfect for what I plan on doing.

So I cut the top of the box first... just a simple rectangle at first, but I knew that I wanted to follow the seat contours so I got a scrap piece of cardboard and traced it out, then transferred the pattern to the top of the box. 

Then I tried my hand at kerfing the MDF side pieces so that I would be able to bend it around and follow the rear seat contours. I left approximately 1/16" of an inch on the outer layer to allow it to bend. My saw blade was very thin, and after doing a bit of math to figure out the curve of the seat, I calculated the radius, then circumference, then 1/4 of that to find the length I needed to wrap around the seat: 










I used my router circle jig to cut out a disc from MDF to temporarily help hold the inside curve, and set it into place.










The depth of the kerfs and width of my saw blade determined an approximate 6 degree bend per kerf cut, so I needed 15 cuts (15*6=90) to get it to bend 90 degrees. For the center of the box, I just took the length into account and kept the same spacing as the corners.










As I said, I am working on the top of the box at this point... I wanted the box to kick out at the bottom at an angle, so maintaining that 90 degree angle between the top and the front/sides accomplishes this. I then measured the distances between the floor and the seat, and cut the sides down to fit. I test fit the side piece to make sure that I had the angles right.










Once that was done, I laid out the pieces on the top and glued them into place. I used a lot of clamps and my brad nailer to hold everything in place while the glue dried. After that, I hit the corners and front of the box with my router to follow the side/front pieces. Then I test fit the box to see how it would look.










The gap that you see on the bottom is because I had not yet trimmed the center section of the box. It was holding it up because of that 3/4" hump in the middle. I checked to see if the box followed the seat, and I think it came out okay:





































From there, I traced out the box onto another sheet of MDF to figure out the bottom of the box. This was a PITA because there are compound angles where the sides transition to the front. I initially cut it at 90 degrees, then calculated the angles for the bottom of the box, then the front... then I just started 'adjusting' it to get it to fit. (I used a jig saw, a belt sander, and a lot of patience here.)










There is just enough room in each chamber to give me 0.65 cubes per sub. I went with the low profile Pioneer subs on a whim... we'll see how it turns out.










I calculated the sub depth, plus x-max, to set the depth of the lower board in the box. Should be just enough clearance...










The plan is to cut out the lower front section of the box so that the bass can come out at the front by your feet. 

From there, I grabbed some fiberglass resin and matting to strengthen up the areas where I made the kerf cuts. I got the resin into the area where the bottom of the box would glue to the sides... so out came the belt sander to clean up the lines and she's good to go.










After all of that, I decided to take a break...










More to come...


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Subscribed, and so far you are doing a wonderful job there.


----------



## Mrnurse (Sep 8, 2011)

very nice man!


----------



## xXTX_ChallengerXx (Oct 8, 2012)

Nice job on the box. Looking forward to the rest.


----------



## ktmkev_74 (Jan 29, 2014)

sub'd


----------



## YoungClayB (Feb 17, 2014)

Seriously. Very nice. Makes me want to buy a truck!


----------



## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

Sub'd nice job ideals for my Titan


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Thanks for the nice comments, guys... much appreciated. I haven't been able to make much progress on it lately. Too much of that 'life' stuff getting in the way.

Yesterday I picked up some basic black carpet and contact cement for the box. I'm thinking that basic black would blend with the carpet, but I'm considering having the box upholstered to match the leather/stitching in the truck. (Might stick out too much...) 

I had the bed of the truck sprayed with Bulletliner, so I am considering having them spray the box, too... but I don't want anything that's crazy looking. Any input/opinions?

Thanks!


----------



## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

Looks very good. If it were me, I would try to find a matching carpet so it blends in and looks like the floor. Bedliner isnt bad, but I think it would stick out.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

I was able to get a little time in on the box. I cut out the lower front area to let the bass come out of the box by the floor. I painted the underside of the box, and got the front removable panel made.



















I also got some basic black carpet and covered the box.










...and the speaker terminals installed.










Fits nicely under the rear seat...



















Now I need to build the amp rack behind the rear seat...


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Got a little more done tonight... started with a frame for the amp rack made of 1" angle iron:










The rack sits between the cab vents and is approximately 10.5" tall.

Then I made a backer board out of 3/4" MDF to fit inside the frame:










Then I needed to cut out the section for the center passenger seat belt:










Then I started laying out where the power distribution, amps, and MS-8 will go. There will be two JBL MS-A5001 amps for the subs, a JBL MS-A1004 for the mains, and the MS-8 will power the rest. 










I'm thinking of running a two-way active front for left/right, plus the rears in the rear doors, and the sub channel(s).

I covered the board with the same carpet that I used for the sub box, but because of the way that the rear seats are designed, nobody will see it. (Or see the amps, really.) I didn't get pictures of that yet... I ran out of time and daylight.

More to come...


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I might be getting an LT double cab tomorrow, 2014. How did you mount the angle iron to the back wall? I know my sub box situation is going to be much harder because my center hump is huge to make way for the transmission, but we'll see. Probably just buy a box for now. Good work.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

sirbOOm said:


> I might be getting an LT double cab tomorrow, 2014. How did you mount the angle iron to the back wall? I know my sub box situation is going to be much harder because my center hump is huge to make way for the transmission, but we'll see. Probably just buy a box for now. Good work.


I haven't mounted it yet, but my plan is to use epoxy to attach elevator bolts to the rear of the cab to hold it in place, and support the weight using feet extending down off the bottom of the rack. There are also some bolts that stick out of the back of the cab that I might be able to use, but they are on the other sides of the cab vents, which makes getting to them a PITA. I'll post pics when I've got it figured out.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

So I had a little time this weekend to get a few things accomplished. I bought some 1/4-20 by 1" elevator bolts and used JB Weld to epoxy them to the back of the cab wall. Three on each side should hold it into place, provided the epoxy does it's job. It's rated for 3,920 lbs/in^2 so it should be okay... but we'll see what happens.

I used a piece of cardboard to hold the three bolts in alignment, then used duct tape to hold them in place while the epoxy cured.










After that, I got to working on the amp rack. I covered the rack board in black carpet to match the sub box, then painted the 1" angle iron frame in a matte black.










Then I mounted the amps and MS-8 to the rack, and wired them up using 4-AWG from Streetwires.










Yes, the 4-AWG is overkill for the MS-8 but I probably won't have any voltage drop concerns with this setup... especially since I'm feeding the power distribution blocks with 2/0 copper welding cable.

I ran some RCA's but I didn't take pics of them. All of this will be behind the seat so it doesn't need to look pretty... but I figured I'd put in a little effort anyway. 

Hopefully I can wrap this up in the next few days.


----------



## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

I love overkill. Looks great.


----------



## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Looking stellar!


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Fast Hot Rod said:


> Yes, the 4-AWG is overkill for the MS-8 but I probably won't have any voltage drop concerns with this setup... especially since I'm feeding the power distribution blocks with 2/0 copper welding cable.


I was gonna say! I use 10AWG, if I remember correctly, for those. Or some 8AWG if using the internal amplifier (rare).

Nice wiring work.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Thanks, guys... I ran into two snags yesterday when putting in the amp rack.

First Issue: Every bolt held except for one... I got into gorilla mode and torqued it pretty good, and 'ping!' Off it came. 

I used the grinder to clean it back up and reapply the epoxy. Good to go, now.

The second issue I ran into is where the ground wires came up to the distribution block. I thought I had the clearance, but my truck's jack sits right there... and sure enough, the jack hit the wiring when it was installed on the factory plate. (Maybe 1/4" off?) You can see it in the picture here:










So I spent some time yesterday redoing the wiring. I turned both blocks 90 degrees with the power block up top and ground below it. I ran the grounds under the amps, tucked up tight... but fed the power wires between the amps and up to the top of the amp rack then over to the block. I'll snap a few more photos later today when I get to it.


----------



## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I really like the way you Kerfed that board and made to whole thing fit under the rear bench. What type of subs are you intended on using under there?

That amp rack is pretty cool too. Wow can't believe you can fit all that behind the seats.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Black Rain said:


> I really like the way you Kerfed that board and made to whole thing fit under the rear bench. What type of subs are you intended on using under there?
> 
> That amp rack is pretty cool too. Wow can't believe you can fit all that behind the seats.


I bought some Pioneer TS-SW3001S2 12" shallow mount subs for this build. I wasn't sure how the box would come out, so I wanted to minimize the investment up front. If things sound decent, then I may upgrade later to something better. For now, it's going to be okay... I hope. :blush:


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Today I got a bit more done on the build. As promised, here is how I re-did the amplifier wiring to clear the jack:










The epoxy for the one rogue bolt had cured so I mounted the amp rack up on the back wall again.



















I fabricated a bracket out of plate steel to mount the 200 amp circuit breaker next to the battery:



















Breaker mounted:










I got the 2/0 welding cable lug landed on the main battery terminal inside the fuse block:










Then I notched the side of the terminal block cover to snake the wire over to the breaker. Then the wiring leaves the breaker and goes into 3/4" flex conduit under the truck along the frame rail:










From there, I ran the conduit up into the back of the cab and connected the 2/0 welding cable to the fused distribution block:










Then I took the factory insulation and put it over the amplifiers, then cut out the area where the amps are located. That way I can reuse the insulation and the ducting that exists for the cab vents on either side of the amp rack without needing to fab up more stuff or dump extra cash into sound deadening. 










(I have a bunch of sound deadening and Ensolite in the garage from a previous build, but I'm being kinda lazy right now and want to get this done... sue me.) 

Hopefully tomorrow I can get the main ground wired in to the amp rack, tie a ground from the battery/block/chassis, and tap into the HU for the wiring that needs to run to the MS-8. (Audio signal, remote turn on lead, etc...) If so, then hopefully I can put the rear seats in on Thursday and get some tuning done. We'll see what happens.


----------



## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well its good to know that you have an open mind for subs or speakers and will change if need be. I like what you've been doing with the amp rack.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

So yesterday I took part of the day off to go home and figure out what I was going to do with the truck... I am going on a mini vacation this weekend, and I needed to decide whether I was going to just half-ass finish the installation, not take the truck on vacation, or come to a reasonable stopping point.

The reasonable stopping point won out. Who wouldn't take their new truck on vacation? 

So for now, the MS-8 is not being used, nor is the MS-A1004 amplifier. The stock wiring is in place and not modified yet... because I want to get the GM/Delphi part numbers on the electrical connectors under the dash where they plug into the head unit and make a custom harness so I don't have to cut anything on my truck.

So for now, I have just the two JBL MS-A5001 amps powered up and feeding the Pioneer subs. They get their signal from the rear speaker wiring that comes into the B-Pillar and goes out to the doors. I ran some twisted pair cables from inside the B-Pillar, down into the channels under the threshold, up the back wall and over to the amp. JBL provides an RCA type connector that accepts speaker wires, so hooking it up was a snap. As you can see in the picture, I also added two straps to connect the top of the amp rack to the wall of the truck for added safety.










The MS-A5001 can take low or high level inputs, so I just selected the 'high' setting and used the JBL CD to set the main gain level. I've never worked with an amplifier that was so damned easy to connect, dial in the settings, and make it sound good. I performed the 'handshake' between the JBL remote bass knob and the two sub amplifiers, and it was good to go.

I ran into a few snags when putting the rear seats back in:

1. My original plan was to just make the amp rack out of 1" angle iron and then strap the back of it to provide a place for the amps to bolt on to the rack. Mid way though the process is when I decided to use the 3/4" MDF and carpet on the rack. That proved to be a mistake, as the MDF and carpet pushed the amps and MS-8 out about an inch towards the rear of the seats. When the seats are down, there is enough clearance... but when the seats fold up, they hit the amps. Doopt! 

2. With the amps pushed out away from the back wall like that, it created a problem with the seat brackets. I had mounted the MS-A1004 dead center between the two MS-A5001 amps... right where the seat brackets bolt into the truck, and that amp would hit the brackets while I was installing the seats. Had I kept the amps back against the wall like I had originally planned, this would not have been an issue. Using a grinder, I was able to take some material off of the brackets to make it fit... but I never would have messed with it had I followed my original plan.

3. Running the grounds along the bottom of the rack also got in the way of the seat brackets. Had I raised the amps up on the rack maybe 1/2" or an inch, it probably would have cleared... and if they had been mounted as previously discussed, the wiring could have sat inside the rack vs. on it or below it, eliminating the problem entirely. I was able to move the wiring to get the seats in, but it was a P.I.T.A. 

Anyway, the rear seats are in and the subs are getting power. I set the amps up using the JBL CD to get the gain right on the money, then I set the inputs to "1" for a single input on each amp. I checked the subsonic filters to make sure they were set to 'OFF' and set the low pass filters to 80 HZ with a 24 dB/octave slope. 

With the factory EQ set flat, I dialed in the amp's digital output setting to 65, which seemed to give me a good blend on my JBL bass knob between 'low fill' and 'stupid levels of bass.' 

Don't get me wrong... this thing is not an SPL machine, nor was it ever intended to be one. But I have to say that I am VERY surprised at just how good the sub bass sounds in this truck. The cab has so much sound deadening from the factory that it's like being in a chamber... and the cabin gain helps the lower end frequencies come alive. The sound is tight... no sloppy nonsense, no distortion, nothing but good sound in the lower octave. 

When I get back from vacation, I'll do more research on the Delphi plugs and come up with a 'plug and play' harness for the MS-8. Stay tuned.


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Fast Hot Rod said:


> ... because I want to get the GM/Delphi part numbers on the electrical connectors under the dash where they plug into the head unit and make a custom harness so I don't have to cut anything on my truck.


Please share said P/N's - I need to do the same thing, brother. :blush:


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

sirbOOm said:


> Please share said P/N's - I need to do the same thing, brother. :blush:


Will do! I did the same for my C5 and C6 Corvettes... having the factory service manuals makes life easy when looking for part numbers. 

If you get the chance to snag a copy of the connectors from your local dealer, post them up and I'll research it.

I took a picture of the connector that is located in the b-pillar yesterday, and the part number was clear as day:










*Delphi PBT-GF20*

This is the part that sticks inside the b-pillar frame where the wiring from the door connects:










If I can get a picture of the green connector under the factory radio like those, that would help big time.


----------



## GSlider (Jun 11, 2009)

Nice work so far. For being your first curved enclosure, it turned out nice! You'll have to give us feedback on those JBL amps. They have such a small footprint its unreal.


----------



## powerscc (May 23, 2014)

Box is sweet. Exactly what I am looking for except would like half of it to be storage.


----------



## KIHM (Mar 25, 2009)

I hate to do this to you, but PBT-GF20 is not a part number for the connector, PBT is PolyButylene Terephthalate, the resin used to mold the connector, and GF20 means the resin is 20% Glass Filled



Fast Hot Rod said:


> Will do! I did the same for my C5 and C6 Corvettes... having the factory service manuals makes life easy when looking for part numbers.
> 
> If you get the chance to snag a copy of the connectors from your local dealer, post them up and I'll research it.
> 
> ...


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Wouldn't the harness that you get for installing an aftermarket HU have the right connector already?


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

KIHM said:


> I hate to do this to you...


No worries... if I learn something, it's all good. 



> ...but PBT-GF20 is not a part number for the connector, PBT is PolyButylene Terephthalate, the resin used to mold the connector, and GF20 means the resin is 20% Glass Filled


Thanks for dropping the knowledge on me. Much appreciated.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

sirbOOm said:


> Wouldn't the harness that you get for installing an aftermarket HU have the right connector already?


It would have ONE connector on it... the one that connects to your factory harness. The one that connects to the factory HU wouldn't be there, hence wanting to get the info from GM to make the harness.

As I said for my Corvette projects, I had the GM Factory manuals for both cars, so looking up the part numbers was a piece of cake. Unfortunately, Helm keeps pushing back the release date for the Silverado manuals, so I might have to ask the local dealer when I take my truck in for it's recall to give me the part numbers. We'll see what happens.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

I did some quick research, and I think I found the connector for the rear door... take a look at this and tell me if you think it's a match: 

DELPHI - 13600495 - Male Connector
DELPHI - 13600493 - Female Connector

DELPHI catalog is here.


----------



## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

Love the work on the amp rack and sub box. Very clean install so far.


----------



## ben54b (May 30, 2014)

Really nice build. I like the way that you are letting us know the parts that are going wrong, as well as the success's. Amp rack and box are really neat, but it's the wiring under the hood and on the amp rack that I really like super tidy and 4 gauge to the ms8, overkill maybe but neat as a pin all matching wiring is worth the little bit extra. The best bit is no one but you would know how dodgy you chose to do it. This is why I like DIY you get the chance to do it your way.
Can we get a photo of the truck, to you guys these are prob pretty common but in Australia these kind of trucks are very exotic and start at about $120 k new, my old man is looking at one for his fifth wheeler. Ben


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

You've right, Ben... these trucks are pretty common here in the States. Mine isn't anything special on the outside, really... just another blue truck to most people. The outside looks like this one, minus the pin stripes:


----------



## ben54b (May 30, 2014)

The biggest trucks we got out here were f250 twin cabs. The old man has a 7.3 l td 4wd.


----------



## austingta (Apr 20, 2014)

Do you have a Bose or non Bose system?


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

austingta said:


> Do you have a Bose or non Bose system?


Non Bose. I couldn't see going with a Bose system, knowing that I would be taking it all out and replacing it. 

So far, I've been really happy with the performance of the JBL amps and Pioneer shallow subs. It blends really well... and I can't see replacing the subs unless I blow them up.

I'm still looking for the GM part numbers on the wiring harness at the HU... hopefully I'll find something soon.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

So a friend of mine is an engineer with GM, and they were able to find the part numbers for the green audio plug behind the radio:

Delphi part number: 10847013

GM part number: 89047090

In searching for this connector, I found a cross reference to another manufacturer:

Yazaki part number: 7283-6453-60

Found a link to some specs for the Yazaki Part here.

Also found a PDF that has the plug and terminal information here: http://inventory.smdinc.com/search/pdf/7282-6453-60.pdf

Hope this helps.

Mark


----------



## mike_mn (Feb 19, 2014)

Sorry I missed what connector you were talking about before. I purchased these male and female connectors from Mouser for a couple bucks each to steal the signals from the back of the radio or the bose amp input use the same connection for the low level full range signal. Got them in a couple days. It is for this connector. Mine is pink, but I assume it is the same one you are talking about. Not identical, but fits the delphi connector perfectly and readily available.




538-34690-0160 - Molex # 34690-0160 - 16 pin Male
538-34729-0160 - Molex# 34729-0160 - 16 pin Female
538-33012-2003-CT - Molex #33012-2003 (Cut Strip) - female pins


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I don't see how the above plug will work with the green plug behind the radio for non-bose applications. Looks to be a similar or same shape/size but the pins are different.


----------



## mike_mn (Feb 19, 2014)

My bad...
I assumed you were talking about these connectors on the back of the radio(left). I didn't realize the 2014 non Bose head unit changed from the 2007-2013 style shown below.


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

mike_mn said:


> Sorry I missed what connector you were talking about before. I purchased these male and female connectors from Mouser for a couple bucks each to steal the signals from the back of the radio or the bose amp input use the same connection for the low level full range signal. Got them in a couple days.


Yup... I did the same for my 2007 Corvette. Made it real easy to go aftermarket on a stock wiring harness.



> It is for this connector. Mine is pink, but I assume it is the same one you are talking about. Not identical, but fits the delphi connector perfectly and readily available.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, that's not the same connector as the 2014. I appreciate you trying to help out, though. 

The 2014 has a flat blade style connection instead of a pin:










I think these are the cut sheets on them, but I haven't been able to confirm it yet:




























I've found a few things under the GM part number, but that Delphi number doesn't get me a dang thing... weird.


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I got this. REVERSE HARNESS FOR 2014 CHEVY/GMC 71-2107 METRA

Comes with wires and pins already. Replace stock non-speaker wiring into this pin-by-pin to keep them straight, plug it in. Tie off OEM speaker wiring that did not get plugged in (because you aren't using it). You have yourself high-level to your LOC or processor or direct to the amplifier...  Expensive piece of plastic but cheaper and less time consuming than buying the crimp tool and pins to make your own wires. On my build log I have a video of me removing the pins for reference.


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Question: where did you ground your amplifiers?


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

sirbOOm said:


> Question: where did you ground your amplifiers?


I took the grounds from the amps back to the grounding distribution block, then from there down to one of the bolts that holds down the plate for the jack. I ground off the paint on the body and the jack plate, just to be safe.

I saw a big flex ground located between the engine and the body up by the brake booster, so I figured I would be okay doing it that way. 6 months into it, and I haven't had any problems at all. (Sub channels only... haven't had a chance to hook up the mains yet.)


----------



## Greg B (Jun 2, 2007)

Build looks awesome!! I love the curved subbox! That is str8t up brilliant!!!!!
I have those exact same subs and i am running them at 1ohm-500watts/per sub in about .69cuft and they are wonderful. I have had them for about 2 yrs now and they are flawless. I listen to a lot of dubstep (yes i know......but it is a guilty pleaseure of mine) and they take the abuse pretty well. I think you will be happy with them. Not to mention the $$$$$ savings over say a JL flat.
I have a 2001 silverado also. Your setup is great. Keep the updates coming!!!

greg


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

Greg B said:


> Build looks awesome!! I love the curved subbox! That is str8t up brilliant!!!!!


Thanks, man... much appreciated.



> I have those exact same subs and i am running them at 1ohm-500watts/per sub in about .69cuft and they are wonderful. I have had them for about 2 yrs now and they are flawless. I listen to a lot of dubstep (yes i know......but it is a guilty pleaseure of mine) and they take the abuse pretty well. I think you will be happy with them. Not to mention the $$$$$ savings over say a JL flat.


So far, they have been working out quite well for me. I was surprised at how clean and low they play. I'm sure that cabin gain has a lot to do with that... but they blend very well with the system so far.

Speaking of guilty pleasures... I grew up listening to all kinds of music, and there are times when I have to grab my old CD's and listen to some Bass Mekanik, DJ Magic Mike, Sir Mix a Lot... and these Pioneer subs do not disappoint. (Unless I crank it up to eleven... then you can hear them reaching their limits.)



> I have a 2001 silverado also. Your setup is great. Keep the updates coming!!!
> 
> greg


Thanks again. Hopefully I can get back on the project in the spring sometime. Too many other things are getting in the way of getting the truck finished.


----------



## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

That box looks amazing! very good attention to detail, I like the mod on your table saw too that is very creative I might need to do the same thing to mine! You do great work


----------



## gzeller1 (Jun 22, 2015)

Your build looks awesome. Did you get the MS-8 working yet any updates? I am currently doing a very similar build with the MS-8 in my 2011 Silverado extended cab. What did you use to get the 4 gauge connected to the MS-8? Were you able to find a 4 gauge ring terminal somewhere? All I am finding is 4 gauge ring terminals to hook to the battery... 

Thanks


----------



## Brian_smith06 (Jan 31, 2008)

That underseat enclosure looks slick! Might have to do something similar on my Tahoe for the amps? My sub is in a jl stealthbox in the console so have all of that room for the amps. Not sure I have the skills to make it look half as good as you did though! That kerfing job looks gooood


----------



## m R g S r (Oct 1, 2009)

Nice build! Thanks for the detailed pics. Just picked up my 15 Sierra crew cab all terrain and will be doing a similar ms8/JL fully active Install. These pics gave a great visual of what to expect before I start tearing into it!


----------



## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

gzeller1 said:


> Your build looks awesome.


Thanks!



> Did you get the MS-8 working yet any updates?


Nope... I got really busy with this thing we call 'life' and haven't gotten back at it. Had a bunch of home improvement projects to get done, then got married in the spring... and I've been a little lazy. Hopefully I can get back on it soon.



> I am currently doing a very similar build with the MS-8 in my 2011 Silverado extended cab. What did you use to get the 4 gauge connected to the MS-8? Were you able to find a 4 gauge ring terminal somewhere? All I am finding is 4 gauge ring terminals to hook to the battery...


I found them at Sonic Electronix. Search in their power and ground wire section under "spade terminal" and you will find a bunch there for 4 AWG. 

Spade Terminals Maximum Input Gauge Size: 4*AWG at Sonic Electronix 



> Thanks


You're welcome.


----------



## chadpeetz (Mar 22, 2020)

this is a badass setup. I just bought a 2019 Silverado and finally found a great idea.


----------



## kevintx7 (Apr 9, 2020)

Fast Hot Rod said:


> Will do! I did the same for my C5 and C6 Corvettes... having the factory service manuals makes life easy when looking for part numbers.
> 
> If you get the chance to snag a copy of the connectors from your local dealer, post them up and I'll research it.
> 
> ...


I was told by Chevrolet parts department that this connector is part of the body wiring harness ($700) and door wiring harness. ($100)

gm 84289603

gm 84291000

Has anyone found just the male and female connector separated?


----------

