# Mashburn's SQ Civic SI Sedan Build Log



## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well a little about me. I am 18 years old, and just graduated from high school. This is my first real sound system build. I have installed subs in my previous car but it was by no means SQ oriented. This build is completely for SQ. At the moment I am only doing this for personal enjoyment, but I may decide to compete down the road. I figured this would be the best way to keep track of my progress and get advice. 
As mentioned earlier, I'm new to the SQ world, but thanks to a few members on here I'm learning allot! (Special thanks to papasin, beckerson, and leveldowen) but my pieces are coming together and I want to keep a log of everything that has been done with install pics. This way I can improve down the road. If install errors are made, I can easily see where it went wrong and correct it in the next install. 

Goals for this build
1. Achieve high level of SQ for a daily driver
2. Lose little (preferably no) trunk space
3. Make it as stealth as possible

I havent done much yet, and I don't have to many pictures as I wasnt keeping a log, but that will change. 

First thing I did was swap out the head unit.



















I finally got this installed and love the way it looks. Fairly easy to operate, and the upgrade from a 3 band to an 8 band EQ was nice. As everyone who has the SI, the stock sub is almost non existant. After a few months of research and talking with a few members on here and 8thcivic, I decided to go with a JL10W6V2. Temporarily run on a 4 ch, bridged to give the little extra bass I HAD to have.


















I will be placing my order for the Hybrid Audio Imagines tomorrow afternoon and picking them up on Friday. I have not decided if I am going to install them or not. Only reason is if I install them i get a 1 year warrenty. If a Hybrid Audio dealer installs them, I get a 3 year warranty. I would like the experience, but an extra 2 years is hard to just throw away. They will be run off of head unit power untill i can get the funds, and decide on which amp/amps to run.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well today was fairly productive. I placed the order for my component speakers. They are supposed to arrive on Friday. Planning to install them over the weekend. I also wanted a little bit more bass for now, so I removed the factory "sub". After I did this I looked on here (8thcivic.com) and the only thread I found that had anything about removing the factory sub showed them taking the whole rear deck off. I am sure I missed the actual thread but just in case here is the easiest way to remove the factory "sub" (really a mid bass driver)

All you need is a flathead screw driver, (ratchet and socket would make it easier but not required.)










Take the flat head screw driver and place it in the crease of the "subs" grilll. Then pry it up. there are several clips that you will need to pry up. Just use your hands and elbow grease.Then it slides towards the front of the car to completely be removed.










Then there are four screws that need to be taken out. The other two are behind the "sub" near the window. They are more difficult to remove due to clearance with the screw driver and window. After they are removed simply lift the "sub" up.



















This is not a drastic improvement, but you can tell a difference.


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## JuiceMan88 (Jun 13, 2012)

Can't go wrong with HATs. I have some HAT 6.5s and ran them off deck power (Toyota) for about two weeks before I could install my amp and they still sounded fantastic (albeit not very loud) once I hooked them to my Phoenix Gold M25 it was another world entirely! 

For the price HATs are a tough act to follow.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

That's good to hear! I have only heard them once, but I thought they were extremely clear. I'm not sure if I am going to keep the tweeters or not. I may switch to widebanders in the corner windows. Ill make that call after I install my processor with my current setup.


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## shawnk (Jan 11, 2010)

Wow! 

1) 18 with a late model Si.. man don't I wish I had something that cool when I was younger! 

2) 18 and focussing on SQ! Nice choice my man

3) 18 with the mind set that you don't know everything and are willing to accept criticism in order to "improve"... Great attitude! You will go far in this hobby, I can tell already. 

Beast of luck with your endeavors!


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

So I've probably missed this. What speaker amp are you running? Gonna get a sub amp?

Your in NC - swing by ATL sometime. Would love to hear the final deal at my shop.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Looks good. Those w6's do awesome in Infinite Baffle. 

3 of them would be phenomenal


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

shawnk said:


> Wow!
> 
> 1) 18 with a late model Si.. man don't I wish I had something that cool when I was younger!
> 
> ...


Thanks! I am still making payments on it, thus why funds for the build are limited, but I should pay it off around the first of the year. So I will have more redily available funds then.

sirbOOm: I have a JL J2 320x4 on hand, so I will temporarily run that to the front stage, I am looking at a Precision Power Phantom 1000 for the sub, that way I have plenty of head room as to not strain the amp.if im ever down their I definitley will stop by, but I will not be finished with this build for quite a while.

edzyy: I have read that they are, but wouldn't three subs be a little overkill?


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Not at all. 

More cone area = less those cones move = lower distortion = happy face


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I picked up my Hybrid Audio speakers today! I plan on starting the tear down tomorrow afternoon. Ready to see what all the hype is about.


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

Did you get your sound deadening yet? Or will you be doing that next?


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

8th gen Civic SI sedan SQ build, check...subscribed .


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

rdubbs said:


> Did you get your sound deadening yet? Or will you be doing that next?


I am definitely doing sound deadening. I just don't know when. I also realize that it will make the speakers perform at their best. But my trunk space is limited due to prefab box and 1 amp. so I may go ahead and get my sub set up squared away. 

Thanks papasin! I hope to eventually have the opportunity to hear your car.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Thanks papasin! I hope to eventually have the opportunity to hear your car.


If you're ever in the left coast in the SF Bay Area, just shoot me a PM .


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

What shop did you get your Hybrids from?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

I will papasin!
Not loudenough: pm'd


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well as planned I started the tear down yesterday. I removed the driver and passenger door panels and speakers. Then a family member called my parents and our garden came in... so install time was cut off yesterday. 

Today I made a trip to Lowe's to pick up a few things for my install. Purchased Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), non- hardening clay, and truck bed liner. As soon as I got home I started to cut out the baffles. 

The hole at the bottom of the screen was my first time using a jigsaw, the one up top was the first cut for the baffle.










Here was the outcome. They are not perfect but I do not think they are to bad for my first ever attempt. I have PLENTY of MDF board left over incase of mistakes.










I then used Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Liner to cover the baffles. First coat is drying as I am typing. I plan to use three coats. The last pic does not show up to well due to the fact that the liner is still wet.




























Here are a few pictures comparing the factory speakers and tweeters to those of the Imagines.





































The tweeters are appear to be about the same size, but the Imagines are a bit bigger. just big enough as to not fit into the factory locations (Atleast I could not get them to fit.)

I also realized the screws that came with the Imagines are not long enough to go through 3/4 MDF and into the metal door, so i will be making another trip to Lowe's tomorrow after church to get screws that are the appropriate length.


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

What kinda jig saw is that? I am having flashbacks when I see that thing.. Is it a Skil brand?
(and I would stay away from screws that come with speakers, they typically suck..)


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Flashbacks haha. It is an older Black n Decker. We do not even have one haha. We borrowed it from my uncle a few weeks back to instal countertops on our new cabinets. I was just glad we had not returned it lol. 
That is true about the screws, I will be purchasing those tomorrow and hopefully completing the install.


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

I think I built my first enclosure with a jig saw just like that!!!

Good luck with the rest of the build!

(oh, and one other thing, you may or may not want to do. If mark where you want the speaker screw holes to be on your ring, and then drill 4 holes big enough for screws to go through easily, and then counter sink those holes, you can screw the spacers into the door metal, and then screw your speakers into the MDF. It can be aggravating trying to screw the speaker in while holding the baffle, and trying to make sure they are all straight...)


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

That's pretty cool! How long ago did you do your first enclosure?And thanks!
I was just thinking a few minutes ago as to how I was going to do that. Guess now I know haha. Thanks for the helpful tip!


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

OP if you've taken a look at a lot of the other Civic builds, most have opted to stay away from the factory location. Now I'm pretty sure the Imagines come with the mounting cups, I would temporarily double sided tape the tweets in the mounting cups in those little windows on the dash, and play with different placement until you find where they sound the best. Food for thought


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

rdubbs said:


> OP if you've taken a look at a lot of the other Civic builds, most have opted to stay away from the factory location. Now I'm pretty sure the Imagines come with the mounting cups, I would temporarily double sided tape the tweets in the mounting cups in those little windows on the dash, and play with different placement until you find where they sound the best. Food for thought


Good point... We have a build log or two with civics..


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## [email protected] (Nov 7, 2010)

JSM-FA5 said:


> That's pretty cool! How long ago did you do your first enclosure?And thanks!
> I was just thinking a few minutes ago as to how I was going to do that. Guess now I know haha. Thanks for the helpful tip!


Does it make me old if I say it was 1986? 

(and make sure to put something between the MDF and the metal of the door so you don't get any resonaces/rattles/vibrations/bad noises)


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

rdubbs said:


> OP if you've taken a look at a lot of the other Civic builds, most have opted to stay away from the factory location. Now I'm pretty sure the Imagines come with the mounting cups, I would temporarily double sided tape the tweets in the mounting cups in those little windows on the dash, and play with different placement until you find where they sound the best. Food for thought


Yes, I have read through several. I was just going to temporarily use them. The plan is to order/fabricate a piece the go into that window. I'm hesitant to do that as I may upgrade to a different tweeter/widebander.

Joey: not at all! Haha. I purchased some non hardening clay that I am going to place between the door and the baffle.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Baffles don't need to be perfect - they just need to fit to speaker and mount. 

Nice work.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks sirbOOm, the only reason i mentioned that is I am OCD haha. Everything has to be done right.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Finally have the Imagines Installed! I must say right out of the box they sound pretty good! But I can not say much for a few reasons. 1) They are brand new and not broken in, 2) They are running on my factory speaker EQ setting (not that I can tune that well yet anyways) 3) My doors are not deadened. Also Im kind of broke in the funds department after this purchase. So i had to use "crap" wire i had left over from my last car. But I will re run everything with quality wire when i do a full tear down for sound deadening. My plan is to acquire some means of DSP, Quality wire and RCA's, and a good amount of sound deadening. I am hopeful to have all this done by the end of the year. Which is coming up fast! I want to at least have DSP by september, as a local Meet/ pre finals practice run is happening on the 7th of september. Well enough rambling and on to the pics. 





































A few things that have me stumped at them moment are, the driver side tweeter does not work. (could be a pinched wire) I will check that out the next free time I have. Also I believe it was Beckerson who tried to help me with a static problem after my HU install. Well I ran RCA's to my 1 and 2 channels, then speaker wire to the speakers and it is still their! Does it when the key is turned 2 clicks (that is when my radio and amo turns on.) and while running. I believe since it does it with the car off it would not be the alternator (please correct me if I am wrong)


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looks good so far, Mashburn.

I don't have any personal experience with Civics, but have had that static problem before after re-checking all of my wiring and with no obvious problems, it was the electric fuel pump. Did you have the static problem before you installed the HAT Imagines? If not, maybe your passive crossover(s) are mounted near the car's computer. It could also easily be a pinched or loosly-connected speaker or power wire. Double-check all of your wiring.

A more specific description of the "static noise" would help...is it constant, intermittent, vary in amplitude, have a certain rhythmic pattern, what speakers is it coming from? Maybe papasin or bikinpunk will chime in with some better ideas regarding the problem.

Do you have a Digital Multimeter (DMM) to check for continuity across the tweeter's voicecoil leads, and to check that your speaker wire is good (no breaks in the wire)?

BTW, do you happen to play the drums?


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Can you describe the static more?


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

bbfoto said:


> BTW, do you happen to play the drums?


Lol. I thought about asking the same thing. Glad I'm not the only one that noticed.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JSM-FA5 said:


> A few things that have me stumped at them moment are, the driver side tweeter does not work. (could be a pinched wire) I will check that out the next free time I have. Also I believe it was Beckerson who tried to help me with a static problem after my HU install. Well I ran RCA's to my 1 and 2 channels, then speaker wire to the speakers and it is still their! Does it when the key is turned 2 clicks (that is when my radio and amo turns on.) and while running. I believe since it does it with the car off it would not be the alternator (please correct me if I am wrong)


For the driver side tweeter, suggest swapping the driver side and passenger side. If the swap causes the passenger side to be out, then it's your tweeter. If the driver side is still out, either wiring or crossover related.



bbfoto said:


> Maybe papasin or bikinpunk will chime in with some better ideas regarding the problem.


As for the "static problem", having an SI sedan as well, I can't say I've experienced that. Keep in mind though that I am one of the very few SQ 8th Civic owners that is still running their OEM HU since I've found the SIs to have balanced out and have been lucky (or cursed) that I go straight into the processor, and depending on the processor, works relatively well or horribly lol. I have also never run passives in mine, so not sure if the static is crossover induced. Wish I could be more help...but will let you know if I think of something or you can always PM me here or on 8th .


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Ok the static is consistant, but varies in volume. I noticed it first when I swapped head units. I had my rear fill off. Turned it on and it was way worse.
Ill check today at for for the DMM.

Bbfoto and a-minus. Yes I do play the drums haha.

Papasin: didn't even think to swap tweeters. Ill try that when I get home from work.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

JSM-FA5 said:


>


Here are a few pictures of how my friend and I sealed up his Civic coupe doors.
We got a cutting board from Wal-mart (yes a cutting board from the kitchen section) and cut it to fit in the access holes in the door. This helps to separate the front wave from the back wave off of the speaker.
We screwed them to the door into the little channel that is around the access holes and sealed them with silicone. Do this AFTER you put deadener on the outer door skin though.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

That's not a bad idea. Definitely unique haha. I bet it works really well though.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I had already ran the wires to the tweeters through the doors, so I just ran a jumper wire to the other woofer. It still does not work. This is leading me to believe the tweeter it's self is bad.


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## a-minus (May 7, 2013)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Ok the static is consistant, but varies in volume. I noticed it first when I swapped head units. I had my rear fill off. Turned it on and it was way worse.
> Ill check today at for for the DMM.
> 
> *Bbfoto and a-minus. Yes I do play the drums haha.*
> ...


Funny how easy it is to spot those callouses after you've had some of your own.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

That's pretty impressive a-minus and bbfoto


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well come to find out one of my tweeters was bad. I noticed it when I switched my settings to run front stage only. I double checked all my wiring and both sides were wired up the same. My amp only puts out 45 rms so I knew I didn't over power them. (Gain was only about half way up to avoid clipping.) so I can't aced Hybrid Audio and told them what I just mentioned. They apologized for my inconvenience and for sending out faulty equipment. They sent out a replacement tweeter in advance, it came in today and I return my tweeter through the same packaging my new one came in. Hybrid Audio definitely has great customer service and quality equipment. (Even though I am only using their entry level. They are amazing with only 1 tweeter.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Car is being sold on Monday. Onto the next build!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

ok well my buyer backed out on me, so I am reinstalling my system. Before I was running a single 4 gauge wire from battery to trunk, is this wire big enough or do i need to go to 0? also I am about to run 2 amps, In my head the only way i can see powering them both is by running another wire from the battery. I realize this is wrong. In build logs people most always only have one power wire from battery to trunk. what do they use after it gets to the trunk?

(If I had to guess there is some type of box/distributer that the power wire connects to, then has multiple outs for other wire to run to the amps. but to my knowledge I have never seen one in a build log or even know what that is called.)


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

JSM-FA5 said:


> ok well my buyer backed out on me, so I am reinstalling my system. Before I was running a single 4 gauge wire from battery to trunk, is this wire big enough or do i need to go to 0? also I am about to run 2 amps, In my head the only way i can see powering them both is by running another wire from the battery. I realize this is wrong. In build logs people most always only have one power wire from battery to trunk. what do they use after it gets to the trunk?
> 
> (If I had to guess there is some type of box/distributer that the power wire connects to, then has multiple outs for other wire to run to the amps. but to my knowledge I have never seen one in a build log or even know what that is called.)


Distribution blocks.


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

You could run a second 4 gauge wire if you wanted to  Nothing wrong with it at all, most just prefer to run the 1/0 and then use a Distribution Block to split to whatever amps they want to. 

I'm pretty sure in our vehicles, it's quite easy to fit two 4g wire runs down the drivers side into the trunk. I believe Bing did it no problem in one of his installs on an 8th civic.

EDIT: found the link  http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...i-sedan-illusion-audio-mosconi-arc-audio.html


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

i use Maxxilink distribution blocks...one for power, and one for ground. They are pretty small, and are built like tanks.

Amazon.com: Maxxlink FLEXIbrass Distribution Block: Car Electronics


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

That would be what i was looking for. But is it necessary to use the 1/0? or can i use 4 gauge to the distribution block?

rdubbs: I have read that thread multiple times and that never stood out to me haha.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> That would be what i was looking for. But is it necessary to use the 1/0? or can i use 4 gauge to the distribution block?
> 
> rdubbs: I have read that thread multiple times and that never stood out to me haha.


what amps are you using? I thought i read somewhere that you had one amp that was only 45watts?

i didn't read anything that said you needed more than 4 gauge...but post what amps and speakers you are using.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Currently a JL 320x4. When I reinstall this today/this week ill be bridging it to 2 channels to power HAT imagines. I'm making a custom box for a JL 10W6V2 which I plan to pair up with a JL 600 watt amp. Later to add a processor.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Currently a JL 320x4. When I reinstall this today/this week ill be bridging it to 2 channels to power HAT imagines. I'm making a custom box for a JL 10W6V2 which I plan to pair up with a JL 600 watt amp. Later to add a processor.


Single 4 gauge is plenty for both amps and a processor. From what i can tell the 320x4 has 2 30 amp fuses, and the 600.1 needs a 50 amp fuse added.

So i would go 4 gauge using a 120 amp fuse in the engine compartment to a distribution block in the trunk. Then 8 gauge or 4 gauge from the distribution block to the amps, depending on what they will accept.

Fusing in the trunk is optional...i always fused in the trunk back in the old days, but recently i never do. But maybe i should...who knows.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

sounds better than what I have done. I have never added fuses. The amps I use always come with them installed, I have never added a fuse in the engine compartment or the trunk.


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Does the pioneer have "sonic center"?

with the tweets both working, you can now actually get a decent center image with that function.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

looks good so far. where in nc are you?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> sounds better than what I have done. I have never added fuses. The amps I use always come with them installed, I have never added a fuse in the engine compartment or the trunk.


100% add a fuse to the engine bay...that is not an option. Think for a second what would happen if that power wire ( hooked to the + battery terminal ) somehow came in contact with the metal of the car with no fuse close to the battery? The car could catch on fire...the fuse is not to protect your stereo...its to protect your car (and maybe your life).


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Casey: Thanks! And I'm from Greensboro.

Mini sq: did not realize that. That's the first thing I'm doing now. I just assume it was a extra precaution people take when using high end equipment. Since mine isn't that top notch I figured the ones at the amps would be enough.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Casey: Thanks! And I'm from Greensboro.
> 
> Mini sq: did not realize that. That's the first thing I'm doing now. I just assume it was a extra precaution people take when using high end equipment. Since mine isn't that top notch I figured the ones at the amps would be enough.


good call...you want to do it as close to the battery as possible, and in a place where there is no change of the wire hitting metal between the fuse and the battery post. 

This is the one i use...
Amazon.com: Maxxlink FLEXIbrass Fuse Holder: Car Electronics


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Casey: Thanks! And I'm from Greensboro.
> 
> Mini sq: did not realize that. That's the first thing I'm doing now. I just assume it was a extra precaution people take when using high end equipment. Since mine isn't that top notch I figured the ones at the amps would be enough.


cool deal. i live in thomasville (unfortunately) right now but am trying to buy a place in kernersville. If you want a hand with anything lmk. cant say Im an expert but Im willing to help. Have been messing with hondas for about 12 years


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

thats not far from me at all. Thanks for the offer! I will PM you if I need anything. only thing i need is to know how to fuse that power wire. my amp kit only came with power and ground wire and the battery connection terminals.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

buy an inline fuse. you probably can go with 150 amp max for 4ga. i have a stinger circuit breaker that is 150a or a tsunami circuit breaker i would sell you for $20. you only need one, or you could go to sound solutions on stanley and get an inline fuse from them for 4ga. youll want to disconnect power and ground, cut power wire 1 foot away from positive terminal and put the breaker or fuse inline. most inline fuses need hex keys/allen keys to install.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> thats not far from me at all. Thanks for the offer! I will PM you if I need anything. only thing i need is to know how to fuse that power wire. my amp kit only came with power and ground wire and the battery connection terminals.


I have never seen a amp kit come with no fuse...what kit did you buy?

Here is the fuse i use, but there are a gazillion of them on the market. You want to pick one that is tated for 4 ga..and i prefer screw down verses ring terminals for ease of use. But ring terminals if done properly may be more secure.

Amazon.com: Maxxlink FLEXIbrass Fuse Holder: Car Electronics


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

You need an inline fuse holder, so you'll need to disconnect your power wire, cut it, connect each side to the fuse holder then reconnect the wire. Should look like this Picture 3 of 8 for Stinger SK4641

Edit: lol I'm late to the party by a minute obviously!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

ok sweet! Im about to head to best buy to pick one up now! haha.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

If you keep uninstalling/reinstalling this system maybe one day you'll get it right.  (that was a joke!!!)

I'm ready to hear this in less than 2 weeks.


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## shutmdown (Aug 24, 2008)

shawnk said:


> Wow!
> 
> 1) 18 with a late model Si.. man don't I wish I had something that cool when I was younger!
> 
> ...


seriously what 18 year old these days looks for SQ..
I'm so tired of those young kids that have so much bass it drowns out their front sound stage. 
MAJOR PROPS TO OP


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subscribed. Can't wait to see how this turns out


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Notloudenuf said:


> If you keep uninstalling/reinstalling this system maybe one day you'll get it right.  (that was a joke!!!)
> 
> I'm ready to hear this in less than 2 weeks.


Yeah tell me about it. Time spent tearing apar and reinstalling had gotten allot shorter haha. I'm ready to hear your set up as well! Ready to get some pointers and hear some quality systems. To me I think they sound "funny" you guys can hear what I'm talking about soon.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

shutmdown said:


> seriously what 18 year old these days looks for SQ..
> I'm so tired of those young kids that have so much bass it drowns out their front sound stage.
> MAJOR PROPS TO OP


I'm about the only one in my area! Haha. I was one of those kids in my last car. Had 2 CVR's on 500 watts, while my front stage was pioneer coaxial from Walmart haha. Now all my friends talk about is how great my system sounds, and it's really a budget build. I really enjoy learning about all of this.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

chithead said:


> Subscribed. Can't wait to see how this turns out


Thanks! I can't wait either. Your going to the meet on the 7th aren't you?


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Thanks! I can't wait either. Your going to the meet on the 7th aren't you?


Hoping to. Not sure how much will be installed, but I hope to make it and at least hang out for a bit.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Sounds good! Hope to see you their.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I had hoped to sel the ca but the buyer fell through. I will be removing all performance parts besides the intake ASAP. I removed my system for the buyer, went to the bank to transfer the title and He was not approved and could not get approved. Thus no sale. So being pissed off I took my car off the market and am going to make a sick daily driver. ( At least that is the plan.) Well enough personal chatter.

I had forgotten about the build log so I skipped a few pics, but I have remembered it since, so lots of pics now.

Tearing apart the dash has become extremely simple. less than 10 minutes to do it now.











My radio has bluetooth so it come with a mic. Since i have allot of cables now I am trying to keep it a clean install so I tidied up the extra wire.










I figured out most of my noise problem also. I was in a rush during the first instal and forgot to sand down the area around the ground wire... So I made sure to do it this time. Here is the location of the ground.










I also failed to fuse my battery in the last install, so I also made sure to do that this time as well. 










I have emailed Don at sounddeadenershowdown twice in the past month with no reply. So i called my local shop about CLD Tiles. They had stinger matt for 20$ a sheet. So i drover over and picked up 3 sheets for 60$ even. The sheets were 2x3 I believe. 

Driver side:















































Passenger Side:






































This was all done the past two days. I did not get to attend the meet like I hoped, but I will do my best to attend the next.

Currently installed in my car is the same "crappy" JL j2 320x4. It is bridged to power the Imagines. gain is right at half way. My W6 is sitting in my room, and my tweeters and installed in the corner windows via double sided tape for now. Not completely broke at the moment but will be a few weeks before I make another purchase whether it be equipment or items to help the install. Kind of stuck at this point.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Great work. Did you notice a change when you sealed off those doors and deadened the outer skin?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I didn't do it right. I just put the Matt on. Didn't cover up the stupid hole! &#55357;&#56865;So I'm going to get plexiglass made and hopefully reuse the same Matt.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

I'd run it and see how it does. That's a lot of work to redo


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

I mean it was a noticeable difference but it would be better with plexiglass right?


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

how flimsy is the deadener over the holes?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

I mean it has some play in it, if you look at the picture without any deadened you see the support in the center of the door. I made sure it stuck their really well and all the sides.


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

I was thinking those calluses were from working out. anyway, looking forward to seeing more in your build. I have the same car. I used Cascade Audio's door kit. You can use a heat gun to activate the adhesive (wear a glove) and mold it to the door. It cools quickly and when it does it serves two purposes. it reduces resonances and is stiff so it really does well to seal up holes. I would still use the butyl deadener everywhere else though.

Pm me and i'll tell you where to get the cascade if you are interested.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks for the insight, ill keep that in mind for down the road. Im kind of stuck at this point. Dont know what I need to do next as there is allot that needs to be done.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Picking up a JL Slash 500/1 V2 tomorrow for 180$! Can't wait.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

It's been a while since anything has been done. I bought a JL slash 500/1v2. My gain is about half and that W6 is bangin! 

I also ran into a problem with my 4 channel. My tweeters started popping then it went into protect mode. I wired up a different amp an it went into protect mode as well. So I connect my ground wire to a different location, and it works perfect! Talk about being pissed off. 

I also mounted my amps in the spare tire well. This was just a temporary fix until I can build a real set up down their. Pictures will follow later.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

As I said here are the pictures.





































Today I am drilling holes in the board and running the wires back through, to make it a cleaner install.
That mounting method was a "quick" fix to get me going. I plan to make it deeper in the spare tire well. and make it take up the whole well since my amps are rather large. 
next project is getting rid of that ported box! I want my trunk back. also looking into Processors.

What do you guys think about temperature down their? will the amps be running hot?


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

Looking good! It's coming along! Were you going to go with the fake floor sub box as well? Or custom wheel well, or custom against the back seat?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

I really want to do the false floor sub. but I think my amps take up to much room for that. Plus I have NO idea how to fiberglass that and get the air space correct. (I am 18 and only SQ experience is what you see in this build thread.) So probably either side pocket of the trunk (driver side) and I am considering an IB set up for the W6. But not sure if it would be worth it for one 10.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

So far Im loving the system! the Hybrids sound amazing now that they are broken in. I have my sub in the picture now and it blends really well with the mid bass imo. But the system still seems like something is missing. Not sure if it T/A, not EQ'd properly or what. but im looking into a processor and hopefully that will solve my issue. I cant put my finger on what needs improvement. 

I've also been wondering if its the fact I'm running all front stage, and no rear fill. Im considering every possibility.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

I can try and help if you like. Looks like youve got solid gear, probably just need to play with it a little. does your head unit have TA capabilities?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

No my head unit doesn't. It's the base line pioneer with the 7inch screen. It only has bluetooth. Im going to mess with it in just a little bit. I think I have my highs to bright since my sub doesnt keep up when I turn the volume up.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

got ya


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

It's been a while since an update. Had a few things come up so nothing has changed. My bank account is gradually getting bigger so some updates soon. Found a rockford 3sixty.3 brand new for 500$ so that is probably my next purchase. Also just found a deal on Precisin Power amps. PPI 900.4 phantoms for 180 a piece. Can only take advantage of one of these deals so weighing that out right now.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JSM-FA5 said:


> It's been a while since an update. Had a few things come up so nothing has changed. My bank account is gradually getting bigger so some updates soon. Found a rockford 3sixty.3 brand new for 500$ so that is probably my next purchase. Also just found a deal on Precisin Power amps. PPI 900.4 phantoms for 180 a piece. Can only take advantage of one of these deals so weighing that out right now.


PM sent.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

I'd get the 3sixty first


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well it's official. I ordered my rockford 3sixty.3 today! Should be in for pick up in two weeks.


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

Congrats! Let us know how it goes!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Processor will be here in less than two weeks. Then I'm upgrading my subs. Going to 2 12" W6V2's. Iv been thinking about zenenclosures but Im not sure this set up would work with these subs. Total volume of airspace - 1.90ft^3 for the Zenenclosure box. (Same one as papasin) According to JL the 12W6V2 needs 1.25 cubic feet for a sealed enclosure. Best I can tell that means 2 will need 2.5 cubic feet and the box is only 1.9 cubic feet. 
Any thoughts or input?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well the Rockford backfired as I had an unexpected financial issue come up. So that has taken a back seat. Iv been researching, talking to my friend (Casey), and asking around on here and I have decided to redo my whole system. I would like to get some opinions for this set up. 

Front Stage, 2 way active:
Audible Physics NZ3/AMT for the midrange/highs
Exodus Anarchy for the mid bass

Sub stage:
Either 2 JL 10W6V2's, or a Morel Ultimo 12.

Amps:
This is up in the air, But I am going for 1200 Watts for the sub.
No idea about power for the front stage.

Processing: debating between rockford 360.3 and mosconi 6to8.

Should be getting a new job soon and this will allow for a bigger budget. THANK GOD


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I just got to use a 360.3 the other day. Like previous 360 products, the software was glitchy and had to be restarted several times while we were doing setup and tuning. Or maybe it was because it runs on Windows 7. They need a Mac version. lol 

When the software was working, it was easy to use, and seemed pretty well thought out. The noise floor problem of previous units seems to have been fixed or at least improved greatly. 

The one we put it had a bluetooth dongle, but from what I read it was only for directly streaming audio to the unit, and not for tuning. We ran the USB up front for that. On the 360.2's we had done, the bluetooth would lose connection frequently during tuning, so running the USB was a good idea.

When I installed a Mosconi 6to8 for a customer a while ago, I felt that it sounded _*slightly*_ better than the 360.2's I'd done to that point. The software was much harder to use, and somewhat confusing. And integration with the VW HU I used it on was a pain. Probably more the fault of the VW than the 6to8, tho. With an aftermarket HU, (or a factory HU with an amp turn on lead) it would probably go much smoother. The 6to8 is about half the size of the Rockford, if that's a concern. It also had some minor issues with BT connectivity, but not nearly as bad as the 360.2's. (Got booted a couple times and had to restart)

Out of curiousity, have you looked at Helix or Audison? Haven't had a chance to use a Helix yet, but I've had my BitOne.1 for about 5 years now and other than having the DRC replaced once under warranty it's been the best of both worlds. It doesn't offer tuning via BT, so I had no BT issues, the software is easy to use (and very similar to the Rockford), and has done everything I needed it to and more. 

Congrats on the new job.

Jay


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Well the Rockford backfired as I had an unexpected financial issue come up. So that has taken a back seat. Iv been researching, talking to my friend (Casey), and asking around on here and I have decided to redo my whole system. I would like to get some opinions for this set up.
> 
> Front Stage, 2 way active:
> Audible Physics NZ3/AMT for the midrange/highs
> ...


Just a thought, take a look at the HAT Clarus subs, i am doing an install now with a pair of 10's in a smallish ported box. From what i have read they will outperform the JL's and Morel's.

Oh and also look at the HelixDSP...i think it is more end user friendly than the Mosconi.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> I just got to use a 360.3 the other day. Like previous 360 products, the software was glitchy and had to be restarted several times while we were doing setup and tuning. Or maybe it was because it runs on Windows 7. They need a Mac version. lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Jay - did you upgrade the firmware on the 360.3? With the latest firmware, I find ours in the van very stable, and we connect to it via a Mac with VMWare Fusion. Yes, the Bluetooth module is for streaming only on the 360.3. I also helped a friend with his, and his also is very stable (also running the latest firmware). 360.3 comes with optical in and a little controller that others charge extra for, and street price on one is pretty hard to beat. My couple experiences with a 360.3 have been solid.

Also have used a 6to8, helped with a 4to6, and most recently a couple 6to8v8s. Once I got familiar with the interface, it is a very capable processor. Depending if or which Bluetooth module you buy separately with it, it could be for tuning only or tuning/streaming. As for "sounding better", IME, entirely depends on the tune (and tuner). Both can be made to sound very good. The install and actual tune will matter more than the processor itself. What I personally would look for in a processor is low noise floor, and as indicated if the form factor and size helps the 6to8 has the advantage. Each brand I have used (MS-8, 360.3, Mosconi, H800) each have their pros/cons. I would not hesitate to use any of the latter 3 if manual tune is the goal, and have yet to encounter an auto-tune processor that works better than an MS-8.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> I just got to use a 360.3 the other day. Like previous 360 products, the software was glitchy and had to be restarted several times while we were doing setup and tuning. Or maybe it was because it runs on Windows 7. They need a Mac version. lol
> 
> When the software was working, it was easy to use, and seemed pretty well thought out. The noise floor problem of previous units seems to have been fixed or at least improved greatly.
> 
> ...


I haven't looked into the helix very much. I am considering the bit one. I just haven't read up on it very much. Going to do that one later tonight. Iv never had a processor or any experience with tuning so a simple interface would be great for starting out.



miniSQ said:


> Just a thought, take a look at the HAT Clarus subs, i am doing an install now with a pair of 10's in a smallish ported box. From what i have read they will outperform the JL's and Morel's.
> 
> Oh and also look at the HelixDSP...i think it is more end user friendly than the Mosconi.


I'll look into those. I love the sound of hybrid audio. Granted I just have the Imagines but the sound can only get better. The more I think about it I probably need to go two 12's. For SQ my 1 10" w6v2 is great, just not enough when I listen to hip hop. I figure the 12's I can turn down when it's just me and I listen to my stuff and can make them hit hard when I listen to hip hop. Reading up to see what I can do cause I am basically wanting the best of both worlds


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

To be honest, Richard, I didn't actually install the 360.3, I just had to set it up and tune it a little. I'm not sure which version of the software was on it. I seem to remember my salesguy saying it already had the latest. It was a piece they brought to us, but it was BNIB. The customer brought us his laptop to tune with, so maybe that had something to do with it.

For the money it's pretty hard to beat no matter what. 

The Mosconi stuff is nice but a little complicated to use. Takes a little getting used to but still not as easy to use as the RF. 

The 360.3 is heads and shoulders about the 360.2's I have more experience with. We don't sell either. We sell Arc and Alpine, and I haven't gotten to install a PS8 or an H800. 

Glad to hear things worked out for you in the Van.

I'll admit the differences might be slight, and might have more to do with the sources I was working with. But they're very close.


Jay


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> To be honest, Richard, I didn't actually install the 360.3, I just had to set it up and tune it a little. I'm not sure which version of the software was on it. I seem to remember my salesguy saying it already had the latest. It was a piece they brought to us, but it was BNIB. The customer brought us his laptop to tune with, so maybe that had something to do with it.
> 
> For the money it's pretty hard to beat no matter what.
> 
> ...


Helped configure a 360.3 on another friend's vehicle also...with latest firmware, also works like a charm and never dropped out. Hooked up to my Mac, as well as his Windows PC and neither had issues.

Of the other processors you mentioned, pretty familiar with the H800 in my Civic and wife's Smart. Doesn't have as many parametric bands as a 360.3, PS8, or 6to8, but it has more than enough bands to get our cars to sound "ok"...and Jay and the OP should know me well enough what my definition of "ok" is. 

It really comes down to the features you are looking for. The H800 of the ones mentioned is the only one that I know that you can tune with BOTH a laptop and the controller. Also has two optical inputs and 6 presets you can store onto the unit and switch on the fly with the controller. These features come in very handy for the Smart and my Civic.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Yeah I can vouch for Richards "ok" ok to him his phenomenal to the average person.


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Did you get subs yet?

I'd add 2 more w6 10's and go IB.

Albeit the most forgiving & easiest to blend in, small sealed would be the most inefficient alignment to go with.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

papasin said:


> Helped configure a 360.3 on another friend's vehicle also...with latest firmware, also works like a charm and never dropped out. Hooked up to my Mac, as well as his Windows PC and neither had issues.
> 
> Of the other processors you mentioned, pretty familiar with the H800 in my Civic and wife's Smart. Doesn't have as many parametric bands as a 360.3, PS8, or 6to8, but it has more than enough bands to get our cars to sound "ok"...and Jay and the OP should know me well enough what my definition of "ok" is.
> 
> It really comes down to the features you are looking for. The H800 of the ones mentioned is the only one that I know that you can tune with BOTH a laptop and the controller. Also has two optical inputs and 6 presets you can store onto the unit and switch on the fly with the controller. These features come in very handy for the Smart and my Civic.


The H800 is also the most stable and the easiest to not have noise floor issues with. By a WIDE margin. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

edzyy said:


> Did you get subs yet?
> 
> I'd add 2 more w6 10's and go IB.
> 
> Albeit the most forgiving & easiest to blend in, small sealed would be the most inefficient alignment to go with.


No, I'm still running the single 10. IB is a little out of my league fabrication wise. What iv decided to do is keep my single 10 to use for road trips and when I will need my trunk. Other than that I'm wither going with a single ID max 12 ported or 2 12W6v2s ported. On a sundown 1500.1.


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

If you don't mind me asking, what lead you to those sub choices?


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## edzyy (Aug 18, 2011)

Either would be great choices

Would probably have to tame them down to blend in


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

rdubbs said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what lead you to those sub choices?


As far as the 2 12 w6's. I love the way the 10 sounds, and it is perfect for day to day needs. Just not enough output for hip hop. So I figure 2 12's on 1500 watts would satisfy that. The ID Max I assume can supply the output I need while not taking up as much space.


edzyy said:


> Either would be great choices
> 
> Would probably have to tame them down to blend in


 yeah I plan to have them turned down for day to day use so they will blend for the front stage. But I want them to hit really hard also.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well Its been a while, and no major updates other than I used a DMM to set my gains appropriatley. My sub continued to smell for about a week, but I have not had that happen since. I also did this for my 4 channel amp since it always ran HOT. It now runs much cooler, however it is not loud enough now. I did the math equation RMS x 2 and square root that number to get my voltage. Now the sound coming from the imagines is not loud enough for my liking. The amp is a JL j2 320x4. The specs say bridged it puts out 160 rms watts. which is 10 more than the speakers are rated for. So what do I need to do to make the system louder since the amp i have now is supplying the recommended power?


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

get a bigger amp for more rms to them or turn it back up. if you werent going into shutdown or hearing distortion, you probably were ok. passive crossovers eat a lot of power.

if its a 4ch and it has crossovers, split the mids to 2 ch and the tweeters to 2 ch.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I would split them, but I'm going to do that when I get my processor. Just because I plan to add deadener at the same time and I only want to tear my interior apart 1 more time. 

I just don't want to send them inaudible distortion. I could not physically hear any distortion, but I figured since the gain was set quite a bit to high (almost double the recommended voltage) that I was sending some kind of distortion so I turned the gain down.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

set the gain in between where it was and where it is. a test tone isnt the same as music, so you should be fine


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

thats true, so how much could I send these speakers? I listen to my music LOUD.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

250 mid 150 tweeter with gains set properly


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Ok I have read the "gains set properly" hundreds of times. 
For easy math let's say the radios max volume is 40. You set your amps gain with 75% of the head units volume which puts that at 30. Now after the rms x2 and square root, just say it is 30 volts. Does that mean when the head units volume is at 30, and the gain of the amp is level matched to 30 volts, the speaker will be receiving 250 rms watts?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well it has been a while since I updated, and that because nothing has changed. I am now back in a position that I can pick up where I left off.
I will be purchasing a 3sixt.3 on my next pay cycle. My buddy is hooking me up for 400$ brand new. LOTS of updates coming soon, haven't had the funds to do anything, so I have been in the planning stage for the past few months.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well it's official. I am picking up a rockford 3sixty.3 today. Got a DEAL on it! Lots of updates coming soon.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Just got home from work, but I made a little stop on my way home.










I am so excited to finally have one of these. got a pretty good deal on it. Paid 400 even, including tax. Also it is brand new! going to meet up with casey tonight or tomorrow as he is letting me have some extra stuff lying around to get this thing going. 
Thanks again Casey!!


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

Nice! Now get to work!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Working on it! But I'm not having to much luck. I ran the initial Calibration and I have NO sound. Everything worked just fine before I added the processor. I could understand this more if the woofers worked and the tweeters did not because I ran new speaker wire to the tweeters, woofers never came unplugged. Only ting I did was put the woofers on CHannel 3 and 4 instead of having them bridged. Radio is not muted and the Rockford is not muted best I can tell.


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## rdubbs (Sep 26, 2012)

I'm guessing you're doing some digging in the 3.sixity.3 thread  I hope it's something simple!


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Yeah I have been! But nothing so far. But now the 3sixty is the least of my problems.
I was doing the intial tune at like 3 this morning. I could not get sound, and I kept screwing with the software till my battery died. I charge the battery this morning when I leave for work, come back and now my amps won't turn on.
Getting a power reading at the amps but they won't power on, the 3sixty also will not power on unless connected to the Laptop. Also my remote wires are in place. I am lost on this one


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Yeah I have been! But nothing so far. But now the 3sixty is the least of my problems.
> I was doing the intial tune at like 3 this morning. I could not get sound, and I kept screwing with the software till my battery died. I charge the battery this morning when I leave for work, come back and now my amps won't turn on.
> Getting a power reading at the amps but they won't power on, the 3sixty also will not power on unless connected to the Laptop. Also my remote wires are in place. I am lost on this one


Did the 360.3 ever turn on before you hooked up the laptop? 

What color is the halo around the Rockford symbol on the 360.3? Try a reset (first and foremost) like I said and do a re-calibration. Usually when I had the same issue you had that helped. Something with a communication error between 360.3 and Laptop, 360.3 gets upset and refuses to work correctly at all (sometimes not even turn on), a reset (using the reset button on the 360.3 fixed the issue for me)

Do these steps in this order:

Do this with car running

1) Also I'd advise unpluging the RCA's at the amps as when you reset you will get a pop out of your speakers.

2)Make sure HU is on (volume all the way down at first), also don't have the 360.3 connected to the Computer.

3) Hit the reset button the 360.3 (you should hear it click and restart, light on the 360.3). Give it a couple minutes before you do anything.

4) Now Turn HU off (this will turn the 360.3 off) then reconnect RCAs (if you don't turn off the 360.3 you will get noise when you plug the RCA's in.

5) Turn HU back on (360.3 should turn on) keep volume all the way off on HU. At this point your 360.3 should be on *IF it is not look at this*:

Rockford Fosgate® - RFTECH Support

If this was your issue and everything seems to work (speakers included) you should be good to go. Always make sure, before you hook laptop up, 360.3 is running off B+. I've had all my issues when I try to do things when things are powered via laptop, messes things up.

If not continue: 

6) Make sure Laptop is on and Connect the 360.3 and open software (it should state 360.3 is running off B+ and connected). Up in the top left corner hit the Rockford symbol and click check for updates. Then Click device and update the firmware (if it needs updated do so)

7) Re load your preset (its under Device menu). Re-calibrate 360.3

Tell me your steps when you re-calibrate and follow steps when prompted, you shouldn't have to input anything but double check and make sure your input (Left/Right) is assigned correctly to your output Left/Right or if you used more then 2 ch input make sure things match up. Also use auto range when you get to that point as well. 

Report back with your findings


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Sorry for the late response, iv been out of town.
The problem was my remote wire from the head unit went bad. So I ran a wire from the interior fuse box for the radio and it works great. 

Now I'm just trying to get my base tune in so I can listen to music in the car again.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks for your help here and on the other thread. I now have all speakers working! double checked my crossover settings with Casey and he said I would definitely be ok with where I set them. I figured I had them high enough, but always good to double check. Tweets and miss are currently at 24 db slopes, tweets high passed at 6000 and miss band passed at 80 and 6000 hz. Charging my battery now so I can do T/A.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

Awesome. Glad I glanced over that pic. You going to measure them with a tape measure or by ear?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Tape measure for sure. 
So far I am HATING dsp. I ran the initial calibration, and it told me to turn the volume down as the channels are about to be unmuted. I turned it down to volume 1 and clicked finish. There was a pop and now the left speakers (woofer and tweeter) do not work. Not sure if they just blew or what. 
So much for beginners luck


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## Serieus (May 27, 2011)

have a multimeter? check the resistance of the coils, a pop shouldn't have ruined a woofer though imo


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Tape measure for sure.
> So far I am HATING dsp. I ran the initial calibration, and it told me to turn the volume down as the channels are about to be unmuted. I turned it down to volume 1 and clicked finish. There was a pop and now the left speakers (woofer and tweeter) do not work. Not sure if they just blew or what.
> So much for beginners luck


It's a learning curve. Can be frustrating at times, I've had my bought's with it. Went to measure my tweeters one day and they just wouldn't work. Reset the unit a couple times and it wouldn't work. Turns out it was as simple as a RCA was bad, don't ask me how or why, it was the issue. It took a night to calm down to get to that point and continue on. Re-load a preset. If that doesn't work reset unit and re calibrate. Making sure everything is set correctly. 

You will get pops from the 360.3. I always mute after calibration and it gives you the turn you volume down warning. Seems to help. I've come to accept it as its nothing IMO that will hurt your equipment. As long as your not doing something stupid...

Trust me once you get it working correctly (a lot of the issues are software based over firmware based) and figure out you always want to HU on before you connect your computer and/or disconnect your computer, and save your work often as you may have a issue between your computer and 360.3 its very fun to mess with and actually see, feel, hear what a DSP can do for your system you will never want to go back to no DSP...



Also when you calibrate make sure you assign you left speakers with the Left input and right speakers with the right input.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

sorry for your luck so far Jacob. Hopefully it gets taken care of.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Beckerson1 said:


> It's a learning curve. Can be frustrating at times, I've had my bought's with it. Went to measure my tweeters one day and they just wouldn't work. Reset the unit a couple times and it wouldn't work. Turns out it was as simple as a RCA was bad, don't ask me how or why, it was the issue. It took a night to calm down to get to that point and continue on. Re-load a preset. If that doesn't work reset unit and re calibrate. Making sure everything is set correctly.
> 
> You will get pops from the 360.3. I always mute after calibration and it gives you the turn you volume down warning. Seems to help. I've come to accept it as its nothing IMO that will hurt your equipment. As long as your not doing something stupid...
> 
> ...


Ill agree on the frustrating part. So far it's been ridiculous. Thanks for the bit of advice, I'll try muting it next time.
The funny thing is, I have my amp in 4 channel mode. Tweets are 1&2 mids are 3&4. So I am a little confused as to how the left tweet and mid went out but the right tweet and mid work. It's not wired up that way.

Also I do have a multi meter so I'll try that tomorrow. 
Thanks Casey, you and me both


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I changed nothing since yesterday, get in my car to come to work, everything plays just fine. Half way there the left side cuts off again. I restart my car at work, left side plays again


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well all issues have finally been resolved. The 3sixty remote wire was lacking in voltage. The remote from the HU went bad. I may have accidentally routed my remote wire to the remote out instead of the remote in on the DSP but I'm not for sure. But I ran the remote from the radio fuse on the interior fuse box and no issues so far. 

The speaker issue was due to bad RCA's. So I'm switching those out soon and picking up an extra set to put my sub in the mix. 

No EQ has been done, just a rough T/A and it already sounds better. 

Now that the DSP is in the picture I can finally do what I have planned all along and use the imagines as rear fill and put some good stuff up front. Lots of updates coming soon.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

JSM-FA5 said:


> Well all issues have finally been resolved. The 3sixty remote wire was lacking in voltage. The remote from the HU went bad. I may have accidentally routed my remote wire to the remote out instead of the remote in on the DSP but I'm not for sure. But I ran the remote from the radio fuse on the interior fuse box and no issues so far.
> 
> The speaker issue was due to bad RCA's. So I'm switching those out soon and picking up an extra set to put my sub in the mix.
> 
> ...


Glad you got it figured out. Nothing worse then not being able to figure something out.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well it went out again. But every time I unplug it and plug it back in it starts to work. 
I checked my voltage and the dsp is getting 15.8 volts at the remote. The battery terminals are reading 16.23. Correct me if I am wrong but this is not normal?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Check the batteries in your meter before anything else. But yeah, that's not normal.

Jay


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

Ya that seems obnoxiously high. Do as said above and check back. Is one side still going out or is it just all of them?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Replaced the batteries and still same reading. I'm wondering if my voltage regulator in the alternator.

And the left side going out was due to bad RCA's


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

16V+ is really high. Possible your protecting the 360.3. Which would explain why it cuts out and when your restart things it fixes it. Kinda surprised the car itself hasn't acted up. 

Your going to want to get things checked out.


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Well I sold the car. Picking up a new one In the next few days. New bud coming soon.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

What we getting?


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## JSM-FA5 (Nov 18, 2012)

Have to wait and see. I'll post a new build thread soon.


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