# Peerless XLS 8" vs. Dayton RS180-4



## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

I've got a pair of these that I've been using for a few months now in my installation. I replaced the Dayton RS180-4 with them, so this subjective review will be more of a comparison between the two.

My need was for a 7" driver with mounting depth no greater than about 3" that could handle midbass duties (~80Hz-300Hz). The RS180 was a cheap candidate that was worth a shot, and it fit the door with very little modification. A solid performer, but it was insufficient for my needs for a couple reasons. First, it needed MASSIVE amounts of EQing. Its low end response left a lot to be desired, so that it required boosting to get it where it needed to be. Mere gain adjustment didn't cut it, as it made the midrange too loud as well. In its favor, even though a great deal of power was delivered to the RS180's after boosting the low end, it handled that additional power quite well. It let me know when it was too much and didn't decide to have a nuclear meltdown before I got a chance to turn it down.

PROS: good midrange response; good power handling for a driver its size/depth; spring terminals on the 4 ohm version are nice; dampness-resistant cone; very cost effective solution that's probably close to unbeatable in its price range, and easily replacable if needed.
CONS: low end response not awful but also not very good; unnecessarily large mounting flange can make some car installations difficult; probably better as a 2-way midrange than as a dedicated midbass driver.

Then I decided that the RS180 wasn't going to suit me. After all, my application really just required reproducing midbass, so the low end output capabilities were troublesome. When Solen dug up a few of these, I jumped. The problem, however, is that they were too large for my doors. I had to construct a special mounting ring and cut into the door skin, thereby making it necessary to construct custom grills -- overall, a lot more work.

But it was worth it. The low end response quickly came out. This is really the first thing that pointed out the shortcomings of the Dayton. Unfortunately, since the driver is 8 ohms, I'm only giving these things about 100 watts each, and it appears they want a lot more than that. Also, I had to modify my crossover points a little bit. Although I was able to dip a little lower than 80Hz (going too much lower is pointless because my sub handles that), I also had to dip the HPF below 300 Hz. Even though npdang recommends a HPF no greater than 400 Hz (if I recall), I found that the response up there was awful. In fact, I didn't like it much above 270Hz or so. Currently, I've dropped it down to 220Hz or thereabouts, and it sounds great. This behavior seems driver-specific, as I didn't have these same difficulties with the Dayton. Overall, an upgrade, but your application my have different requirements.

PROS: excellent low end and midbass response; good power handling, good sensitivity; peerless' flange design with flat edges can make tight installations easier; best suited for dedicated midbass applications or even subwoofer apps.
CONS: size and mounting depth is a definite concern for most applications; response above about 300Hz seems subjectively poor, giving it a rather small usable bandwidth; 8 ohm impedance may not be ideal for many car audio installations; difficult to find retailers that carry these speakers.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Awesome review Mark. Although I've used both drivers, I never had the chance to compare them both in the same setup.


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## fuscobal (Mar 27, 2006)

Cool review! I'm pretty pleased with my 8" HDS wich i currently use down to 25Hz. Being cut at 500Hz, I noticed the same thing as u did, they loose precision. Unfortunately I can't go any lower until I change my dome midrange. I think I am also going to take a Peerless XLS or Genesis sub to handle 40Hz down. What midrange take it from 220Hz up ?


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## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

fuscobal said:


> Cool review! I'm pretty pleased with my 8" HDS wich i currently use down to 25Hz. Being cut at 500Hz, I noticed the same thing as u did, they loose precision. Unfortunately I can't go any lower until I change my dome midrange. I think I am also going to take a Peerless XLS or Genesis sub to handle 40Hz down. What midrange take it from 220Hz up ?


I'm currently using the Seas P11RCY to do the job, but recently picked up Peerless exclusives to try out in their place. That'll be the next review.


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## yermolovd (Oct 10, 2005)

Great review, thanks. Wish they'd still produce these... It doesn't look like there's a replacement for XLS 8? While other drivers might do the job for sure, but it seems that XLS can just do more.


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## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

I'm intrigued by what the SLS can do. It appears that it may not have the raw output that these have, but it does look like it could be a solid performer at a slightly lower price and might be able to play higher frequencies.


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## ClinesSelect (Apr 16, 2006)

Very nice review.



MarkZ said:


> Even though npdang recommends a HPF no greater than 400 Hz (if I recall), I found that the response up there was awful. In fact, I didn't like it much above 270Hz or so. Currently, I've dropped it down to 220Hz or thereabouts, and it sounds great. This behavior seems driver-specific, as I didn't have these same difficulties with the Dayton. Overall, an upgrade, but your application my have different requirements.


I had the Daytons and now the XLS in my install and found the exact same problem when running the XLS anywhere near 300Hz.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

I'll let you guys know how the Peerless 8" SLS does in my application (dedicated midbass 64Hz/12dB - 160 Hz/12dB). I used this weekend to replace the power window motor, seal up the large holes with 1/4" ply, and apply crap loads of rammatt.


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## Wild Child (Feb 16, 2006)

yermolovd said:


> Great review, thanks. Wish they'd still produce these... It doesn't look like there's a replacement for XLS 8? While other drivers might do the job for sure, but it seems that XLS can just do more.


cool review, I like how you set the info up, +/- and so forth

But at far as other midbass drivers having the output of the XLS, I would think that the L22 should be able to hang with it considering that it has an Xmax of 12-14mm and a stiff cone. But, i don't know, mine right now are moving a lot but are not giving much output, I just put them in, and hope to solve the problem shortly, adding another 3/4" thick trim ring bringing the total to 1 3/4" has seemed to clean it up a bit. I think once I improve the air movement behind the driver, seal the door a little better, and get the h701 up and running, i can make vast improvments.

Is anyone running 8's or larger and using no HP filter(or even HPing really low). How are you combating door rattles and other problems if doing so.

I hope i'm not taking away from this post.


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

MY extremis are cutt at 63hz 24db, but i can easily run them down to 40hz or lower if needed, but at louder volumes than normal i get worried, 80hz 12db seems to work very good for use without sub, but a little 80-100hz eq is needed to flatten it out some. How are the SLS 7's?


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## fuscobal (Mar 27, 2006)

For my Peerless XLS 8" even from 25Hz to 40Hz there's a huge difference. They go very low but my doors are heavely damped !


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## solacedagony (May 18, 2006)

MarkZ said:


> I'm currently using the Seas P11RCY to do the job, but recently picked up Peerless exclusives to try out in their place. That'll be the next review.


I'd definately be interested in that review since I'm planning on the Exclusive 7"s.


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## Wild Child (Feb 16, 2006)

how many layers are u using fuscobal, I have 4 on the parts that tend to flex and will probably go with one more. Road noise is taking a ton away from my mids, what ways are you guys fighting that?


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