# First Sound System - Android Tablet HU, 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4



## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

i'm currently working on my first system and thought i'd document the build here. i've been into cars/trucks/bikes for a long time - but i've always spent all my money on other mods and never had any left for audio gear 










i'm not an audiophile by any stretch, but i do appreciate a couple steps up from "premium factory sound". as a frame of reference, my SoundMAGIC ES20 heaphones are probably the nicest sounding thing i even own - for now!

my Jeep has been through a factory head unit, a Windows based Car PC (8.4" resistive touchscreen), and a Motorola XOOM Android tablet based carputer (current). both of the carputer setups have had shoddy sound - this build is an attempt to keep the tablet as my headunit, but massively improve the audio over the 11 year old factory Infinity setup.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

the Jeep is probably about as far from an ideal soundstage as you can get right now. it rattles, it vibrates at 75 MPH, it's lifted with a big roof rack and other random things give it worse aerodynamics than a brick, it has a V8 with a Flowmaster and turn down exhaust, the 35" mud terrains are the very definition of tire noise, even the low 5.13 gears make noise just from the chunky mesh.

it's built as a camping/expedition rig and trail machine. it's also my daily driver, though since i work from home that's not a ton of miles.










i do drive thousands of miles all over the Southwest each year for fun! many trips involve a few hundred miles of freeway/highway, then running difficult rated 4x4 trails, taking a few pics of the breathtaking scenery, sleeping in a tent, and then driving home. storage space is a chief concern for me - so no room for a long excursion 12" subs in this thing.










my first car-pc was based on an HP computer and docking station with an 8.4" touchscreen. the primary motivation was to have off-road (topo) maps. at first it was completely separate from the audio system, but eventually i tried to replace the head unit with it and keep the factory Infinity amp and speakers.



















i wanted it dockable so that i could remove it to plan routes, download maps, and easily update software all from within the house. it ended up being overly complex between the power supply, dock, startup/shutdown stuff, usb hubs, active usb extension cable, touchscreen, keyboard, etc.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

now i've had the Motorola XOOM 4G (Verizon) for a while, and overall things have been much better with this system since most of it was all-in-one. it cleaned up the look of things too (though obviously i'm not going for a factory look here).










it sits in a custom dock made from a RAM Mount cradle and a hacked apart Motorola Speaker Dock. with this system i again wanted to be able to easily and quickly take the tablet in/out. sometimes it even needs to come out while on a trail, be set on the hood or a rock and have several people look at maps together. it's also nice to be able to take it into the house to download maps or updates and tinker with it in general.










the speaker dock did do audio, but not with USB. at the time i wanted USB so i ditched the audio adapter circuit and wired to a HUB. this meant i had to use bluetooth for audio output (or else always be plugging in/out a 3.5mm plug). with the factory amp/speakers and the noise in the Jeep, i wasn't worried about the quality of BT audio.

i'm planning to upgrade the tablet within the next few months, but will still be doing BT audio. however, the tablet i want supports APT-X and BT 4.0, so the sound should be a better.

i built everything inside the housing of the old factory radio - USB hub, programmable mini ATX power supply (for +5v for USB hub and BT receiver & a regulated +12v for the tablet), Logitech BT receiver, line driver, OBDII adapter, etc. i used a factory stereo wiring harness adapter to pull all the needed inputs/outputs and power into the thing.



















i was feeling all stoked on it till i tried the audio! it wasn't loud enough, the sound was flat, there were several noises (constant and intermittent), plus a startup pop/thump to top it off. 

i tried several converters/adapters, but the factory infinity amp seemed to need to be driven hard to get any volume. i ended up with a little Lepai 12v 2channel amp acting as a pre-amp, but it amplified the noises in the system terribly, so then i added a JL Audio CL-RLC line driver with differential balanced inputs before the Lepai and that helped some. then i had alternator whine too, so i got a noise suppressor for the power wire on the Lepai. i tried chokes on several other wires, i shielded the crap out of the whole metal box that everything was in. 

basicly i kept piling on crap to fix a problem and the whole system got overly complex and only improved mildly. for some reason i was determined to keep the factory amp at that time - don't ask me why!?

















fast forward to a couple weeks ago - i ripped it all out, decided i'd simplify everything to do with the tablet buy ditching the USB stuff that i never ended up using, changing how all the power supply stuff worked, and then buy an amp with RCA inputs so i could ditch all the BS pre-amp stuff i had going on.


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## BumpinJetta (May 17, 2013)

i like what you did using the factory radio cage. impressive man! i think some of your noise is coming from that pac piece that is also inside the cage and located extremely close to the other pieces of equipment.


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Nice jeep. So what's the plan?


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

BumpinJetta said:


> i like what you did using the factory radio cage. impressive man! i think some of your noise is coming from that pac piece that is also inside the cage and located extremely close to the other pieces of equipment.


yeah i left some details out - when i put in the JL Audio line driver it was to replace the PAC because it was indeed a POS. i also placed it and the Lepai amp down in another compartment when i put those in (instead of right next to the PSU).

i also found that in general having everything right there behind the tablet wasn't a good idea. i got RFI whenever there was 4G activity, and if i was testing things out on WiFi in the driveway i would get even worse RFI.

anyway, all of those components are gone and yes i'm spacing things out better with the new setup 




teldzc1 said:


> Nice jeep. So what's the plan?


thanks! sorry for all the backstory, i'm getting there!


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

so after taking everything out, the only thing i really kept up front was the docking cradle. i took out the entire radio cage full of stuff and just used the factory radio harness to get a +12v switched supply which i then looped back to the "amp turn on" lead and also wired an accessory outlet from.

i powered the tablet from the new switched outlet using an OEM Motorola car adapter (with it's output wired into the custom dock). then i just had to modify my Tasker scripts to not have the tablet sleep for a few seconds since i no longer had a PSU that survived cranking.











i went looking for some coaxial speakers that would fit in the factory locations (for simplicity), and came up with some JBL's that were in my price range and shallow enough that i could be sure they would fit.

front: JBL GTO939 6x9" 3-way coaxial: http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/pro.../GTO939_JBL_US
rear: JBL GTO629 6.5" 2-way coaxial: http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/pro.../GTO629_JBL_US

then i needed an appropriately rated 4 channel amp. the fronts are spec'd for a max of 100 watts RMS each and the rears for 60.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

my only real requirements for choosing an amp were appropriate power rating and i wanted a class D due to size limitations - i wanted to mount it in the factory spot under the rear seat. i was also thinking a class D would be more efficient, so less worry of running down a battery when parked and maybe less heat.

i'd heard of the little Rockford Fosgate PBR series mini amps a while back, but after looking at reviews there was a lot of comments about them overheating when put in semi-confined spaces.










i ended up selecting an MB Quart MYKRO. i probably should have done more research first as i didn't even know MB Quart had been bought a long time ago and then went to crap. however, i also saw some talk that the parent company might be trying to re-focus the brand on higher end products recently... i never found any serious reviews on the MYKRO series, so i guess we'll see how it works out.












i got the speakers installed without issue, the rears came with adapter rings so i didn't even have to drill any new holes. the rings aren't very stiff though- wondering if i should glue them in or what? the factory speakers are a 3 hole mounted 6.75" and the JBL's are 6.5".










i didn't do any extra deadening/dampening yet, still deciding on what level of commitment to give that! i do already have a roll of GTMAT, so i'll probably at least throw that in a few spots. i've just been reading about MLV and CCF actually... there is some factory padding on portions of the door panel already, but the moisture barrier is completely brittle and cracked off in several places - maybe i should just do a complete GTMAT skin to seal the door? i welcome any thoughts on this.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

i added a Clarion EQS746 7 band EQ to fulfill several duties. it gave me a fader control which i lacked since i don't have a real head unit. it also gives me an integrated sub crossover (at 60hz or 90hz) and sub level control. most importantly i wanted to be able to tweak the sound coming out of the BT receiver - i can EQ on the tablet, but it was my experience that only so much of that survived the BT compression and analog conversion.

the inside of the center console was just barely not wide enough, but seemed like a great place to put the thing. easy to reach but not in your face all the time. a few minutes with the Dremel, some aluminum plate, and i had it in there.










since i needed to route switched power to it anyway, i also added another outlet to the inside of the console - this would be to power my BT receiver.












i used all NVX X-Series RCA cables with this project, they seemed like a decent mid-grade cable which matches the overall level of my other components. they are twisted pair for improved EMI rejection, and have a nice outer sheath built in.










i ran the RCA's and any new power wires apart from each other by a few feet at least, but i'm curious how much this matters in modern vehicles? i mean the Jeep has bundles of wires friggen everywhere, so the RCA's are still near other power/data/misc factory wires.












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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

i have dual batteries already and an intelligent controller, due to running a fridge/freezer on trips. they are located in the spare tire well, along with a 5 gallon air tank. the compressor is in the factory battery location under the hood where it can breath.










this was good as it meant a short run of new power wire to the amp location under the rear seat. each battery runs through a 300 amp breaker before the Blue Sea ACR (latching solenoid). i added a new run of 4 gauge power wire for the audio stuff, through a new Blue Sea Maxi Fuse holder. i'll forgot to take an updated pic showing that, i'll have to post one later.

all my wiring exits the spare tire compartment using gland nuts. there was a factory rubber boot beneath the rear driver's seat allowing some wires to pass through already, so i ran my new power wire through it as well (to get back into the cabin near the amp).


the factory amp was under the passenger rear seat along with the spare tire tools. i decided to put the new amp under the drivers side and use the passenger side for storage only.

i used a Metra 70-6507 harness to plug into the factory amp wiring so that i wouldn't have to splice the speaker wires. i realize running new heavier wiring for the speakers is optimal, but i wasn't that committed. the JBL's are 3 ohm which supposedly combines with the less than optimal factory wiring to present closer to a 4 ohm impedance at the amp. the metra harness came with a billion feet of wire which surprised me for how inexpensive it was.

i used split loom anywhere wires went around corners or sharp edges, but i didn't loom the entire runs.










i only had to splice into the other bundle that had gone to the factory Infinity amp to grab 2 wires, the turn-on lead and a Chrysler PCI data bus connection. 

on my particular rig, all the interior systems and the ECM/diagnostic stuff communicate over the same bus (using the SAE J1850 protocol). i run 2 bluetooth OBDII adapters, one for OBD apps like Torque which can pull/clear codes and show gauges for all sorts of stuff, and the other for an Android app i wrote to interface with the Jeep. currently i only use my app to monitor for the factory steering wheel mounted stereo control buttons and allow them to control the tablet (volume, track, play/pause, etc). i made the app open source and it's on Github: https://github.com/theksmith/CarBusInterface - the BT OBDII adapters are like $12 each and so it's a cheap way to integrate with the OEM controls.


i used the turn-on lead for the new amp and to trigger a relay which provides power to the EQ & bluetooth adapter, and to the OBDII adapters. i also had to make an impromptu visit to Pep Boys to grab a Scosche distribution block for the power wire breakout.

i've seen conflicting info on ground wiring - some people say to run directly to battery for optimum EMI/RFI rejection, others say to ground to chassis with a short wire for the same reason. my Kenwood HAM radio recommended running both the power and ground directly to battery, but the MB Quart manual said to go right to chassis. i decided to go right to chassis! i scraped off the paint where i screwed in and also used an "external star" style lock-washer under the crimped ring-terminal to make sure i got a good connection.


i just layed the amp in place so i could test things out, later i cleaned up the wiring and look of it.












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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

at first i used a Kinivo BTC450 bluetooth adapter. the previous Logitech always seemed to be part of the noise issues, and at the very least it put out a really weak signal on the RCA's which was reason enough to try something new. we're using the Kinivo with the factory radio and an auxiliary adapter in my girlfriends Jeep Liberty, and it's worked well - the integrated microphone, play/pause & back/next buttons, and 12v adapter make it really convenient. i didn't really need any of the extras though, just a decent audio signal!










i plugged it into the outlet that i added to the center console and then used a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable to route it to the EQ.



i set the amp gain to minimum, disabled the built in low/high pass filters, turned the bass boost to zero, turned the EQ's volume way down, set the Clarion and tablet EQs to flat, turned the tablet to about 75% volume on the BT output and then got my first listen to the new system...

right away i was excited that 95% of the noises were gone, including the startup thump. i played a few things that i consider to be mastered well and have a fair bit of range. at that point i didn't know what to think... the new setup had a clarity in vocals and other mids and highs that i'd previously only experienced with headphones. at the same time i had no bass, i mean not even mid-bass that would be well within the specs of the JBL's. i really expected more considering the fronts where 6x9's.

i played with all the gain, bass boost, and EQ bands - i eventually found that setting the EQ to completely negative on all bands, adjusting the amp gain, then pulling up some of the frequencies gave me a much fuller sound, but road noise still would drown out most of the lows. i assumed that the factory Infinity speakers had just been more "full range" - now don't get me wrong, the Infinity's were old and junky, they sounded muddy and distorted with much volume at all, but they still hit lower notes it seemed. i figured i just needed a sub sooner than originally planned.










so i purchased a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered loaded enclosure because it would fit under the other rear seat just perfect. 8 out of 10 reviews i read were excellent for it, with the occasional person complaining that it was completely underwhelming. well it turns out for my purposes the naysayers were right! it sounded ok in the driveway, but distorted with much volume and was completely drowned out by all of my Jeep's noises once on the highway. it would probably be a great unit to round out a factory stereo in a small modern (quiet) car, but not good for me - so it got returned.



there are several mini 8" powered subs that wouldn't quite fit under the rear seat and i briefly considered just putting one of them somewhere else, but after the Kenwood experience i didn't want to risk being disappointed again with an all-in-one unit - so i began to look at how to fit a "real" sub in without sacrificing much of my precious cargo space. i also ordered a different BT receiver to try in the meantime.



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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

my 35" spare sits in the rear since i don't have a custom bumper with tire carrier yet. i built a platform around it to give me a way to add lots of equipment during trips yet still be able to get the tire out easily (and then get to the batteries & air tank too if needed). the platform also has a slide-out table for camp use (cooking on, etc).










between tools, spare parts, and camping equipment & supplies, i regularly use nearly every square inch of my cargo area. especially if i take the GF and kid, then even the roof basket is usually overflowing - so adding a large sub box was out of the question. i also didn't want a box that calls attention to itself and screams "steal me"!

fitting an amp for a sub would be ok, i could just put it under the other back seat where the factory amp had been. that still means more tools/parts will have to make their way into a bag somewhere else inside the Jeep, but i can live with that small amount.

the best area i could come up with to accommodate a small sub box was behind the passenger rear seat, in the triangle area between it and the spare/platform:










i already use that area for storing extra parts, but it's only half a cubic foot of space or so of stuff, i can find somewhere for it 

i couldn't find any pre-made truck style wedge boxes that were quite thin enough for there though, so i'll be building my own, probably just added on to the platform thingy.



of course i needed a shallow-mount sub. it seemed most of the shallow 8's didn't spec all the way down to 20hz. i don't know what is realistic from a small enclosure, but i figured if the sub didn't even claim to hit that low then in a real world application i might still be disappointed. i listen to a variety of genres, but i do love my electronic music and a nice heavy drop.

i started reading about Pioneer's current series of thin subs and though i'm not really a Pioneer fan, they seemed to have some of the best shallow-mount stuff right now. i decided that i might just be able to cram their 10" TS-SW2502S4 behind the seat and have room for full excursion. the minimum sealed box recommendation is 0.35 cu ft and i should just be able to make that, even subtracting for the volume of the sub itself. the unit is a 4 ohm SVC with a 300 watt RMS (1,200 peak) rating.










for $20 more i got the version that is already mounted in a small enclosure (TS-SWX2502) - that way i can test it out before i bother to build a custom box, and i can re-use the terminal cup for my box too.












for the amp i stuck with the MB Quart MYKRO series, mainly because it would really aggravate my OCD to have two different style amps next to each other under the back seats! but also their sub amp for that series was fairly well matched to the Pioneer. it's the MYKRO RM1000.1 and is spec'd for 400 watt RMS @ 4 ohm.












UPS brought the new toys just last night, but i won't have time to wire them up till next week probably.

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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

ok, it's been a long thread already - but if you read this far then i just have 2 more items to catch you up to how it sits right now!


i received my other BT adapter, a Sony BM10. it supports APT-X and BT 4.0 which will be good for my next tablet, but overall i was just hoping for a higher quality component than the Kinivo and other adapters intended for use in a car. 

before i swapped it in, i put the tablet and Clarion EQ back to flat and listed to a couple songs that i like to test with - then changed only the adapter. the Sony puts out a considerably stronger RCA signal, there was a large volume increase. it also must have a higher quality DAC, the sound was more "full", noticeable to even my amateur ears!

i had to do very little with the EQ to get the sound where i wanted and i'm much happier with the speakers and entire system right now, even without the sub or spending a ton of time tweaking things.










it's powered by a simple dual USB car charger (Amazon.com: Zeimax® iPhone 5 / 5C / 5S / 4 / 4S Dual Port USB Car Charger for iPad and iPhone (Black) Supports iOs 7 - Type 1: Cell Phones & Accessories) and a right angle USB to Micro-USB cable (Amazon.com: Tripp Lite Universal Reversible USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Cable (Reversible Right / Left Angle A to Micro-B M/M) 3-ft.(UR050-003-RA): Computers & Accessories), plugged into the extra outlet that i put in. a bonus was the power light is blue so it matches the Clarion!










at this point i'm pleased with everything and can't wait to get the sub in to round out the system. the only issue i have is a very high frequency hiss/whine. it was present with both BT adapters, so i know it's not coming from there - but i haven't done anything to troubleshoot the issue yet so i'm not too worried. i still have one "eBay" 12v switching power supply that's close to the amp and my hunch is that's the culprit. i'll investigate soon.



meanwhile the other update was that i made a very basic mounting board to clean up the look of the amp area and hide all the wires. i started with a cardboard template, then cut out a piece of 1/4" plywood.



















i already had this glue from another project, and it seemed to work fine:










i tried some tan carpet from Pep Boys first, but it was way too gold and didn't match mine at all, so i went with plain black. i think it will look better when there's a matching amp and board under the other back seat!










i could fit the distro block and relay and excess wire under the board, but couldn't quite get the 2 OBDII adapters under there, so made them above the board (one is not plugged in here, but you get the idea).



thanks to anyone that read all this! any input is welcome.


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Very cool build. Different from a lot of the other builds here. What player are you using for your tablet? 

Regarding the deadening, are you going to do the whole vehicle or just the doors. Doors will help but seems like that this isn't exactly a luxury cruiser so will be rather loud regardless. 
Doing the whole thing with CLD, MLV, and CCF might help.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

teldzc1 said:


> Very cool build. Different from a lot of the other builds here. What player are you using for your tablet?
> 
> Regarding the deadening, are you going to do the whole vehicle or just the doors. Doors will help but seems like that this isn't exactly a luxury cruiser so will be rather loud regardless.
> Doing the whole thing with CLD, MLV, and CCF might help.



thanks!

i'm using Poweramp Music Player: Features | Poweramp – Music Player for Android

using a different skin, can't remember which one right this sec - it's dark and minimal looking.

i tried a lot of players, i like this one because of the way the folder based lists work and that you can stay in that and never use the album/artist database stuff that's built of the ID3 (which is a little messy sometimes). it has a nice EQ built in which is good because the system wide one in all the ROMs i've tried on the zoom never work right. it has settings for nearly every aspect, really customizable.

on the sound deadening, i'm going to just start with doors since that's easy - then we'll see if i ever progress beyond that. i know i need some butyl dampening already to hopefully fix some vibes. the reason i was asking about sealing the whole door with it was in regard to how creating a psuedo-sealed box by doing that would affect the JBL coaxials? also the existing plastic barrier is falling apart inside there.

is anyone still making an all-in-one butyl backed foam product?


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

got the other amp installed under the other rear seat. still need to build the sub enclosure.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

my girlfriend took me to the Verizon store last weekend to get my present early! a new Sony Z2 tablet!!

i can't wait to get a dock fabbed up for it in the Jeep to replace the XOOM. Motorola made a great tablet with the XOOM, and hackers/devs have kept up ROM support for it for a long time, but it is old and slow compared to the newer devices.

already started configuring the new tablet. created a sort of winter theme with a minimal white icon set, Lonely Tree live wallpaper, and configuring some widgets:










i also have Tasker (automation/scripting app) working to automatically unlock this tablet when it gets power (Jeep starts) and it sees my phone via bluetooth. if it doesn't find my phone then it will still wake up but be at the lock screen. i never was able to get the XOOM to reliably detect my phone this way, so i'm happy it works on the new Z2.


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

This thread is so interesting, from one Jeep guy to the next. Fantastic build.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

knever3 said:


> This thread is so interesting, from one Jeep guy to the next. Fantastic build.


hey thanks! do you have a build thread on your setup?


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

theksmith said:


> hey thanks! do you have a build thread on your setup?


This is the audio build here.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...jeep-comanche-diamond-audio-zapco-alpine.html

If you are interested in the Jeep build it's here.

First Restoration Project - Your Project MJs - Comanche Club Forums


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

knever3 said:


> This is the audio build here.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...jeep-comanche-diamond-audio-zapco-alpine.html
> 
> ...


nice, love those little trucks - and the stroker sounds great. have you considered swapping the front clip for one from a 97+ XJ or are you going for more of a restoration style?

also after reading your post i'm glad i didn't buy that same soundstream loaded wedge box. i had considered getting it and modifying it to make it thin enough to fit behind my rear seat.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

parts are being amassed for the new tablet install... still waiting on a couple things though.










i found a cradle with power adapter that looks to be exactly what i need and will prevent me from having to build something completely custom this time: 

Sony Xperia Z2 Tablet Charging Holder with Tilt Swivel and Cigarette Lighter Adapter - ProClip USA










it's way too expensive IMO for what it is, but i'm banking on it saving me a bunch of time/headache, so i ordered it. then i got an email that it's on backorder - doh!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Wow this is a very nice build indeed!


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> Wow this is a very nice build indeed!


thanks!


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

still waiting on the [email protected] tablet dock to get here - on the slowest boat from China apparently!

haven't had time to tackle the custom enclosure yet either... so far just enjoying how it all sounds and works even with the box the sub came with. 

i was trying to explain to my GF the other day how i can now hear parts of songs in the Jeep that i previously only ever heard with headphones, or understand lyrics that before i wasn't sure of - she couldn't hear anything different enough to justify the cost still though


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

the new tablet cradle came in and so i have it mounted up, details and pics here: Android Tablet as a Head Unit & GPS - New Install - Page 2 - Offroad Passport Community Forum

still needs a couple finishing touches, but here's the nearly finished product:


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## the_dealer (Apr 18, 2013)

That's pretty sweet. I've been wanting to do something like that in my KJ with a 7" Tab4. Do you also have a KJ, or am I thinking of a different person? 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®4 on 38's


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## ChotaBoy (Feb 3, 2009)

What about glossing a shallow 10 " into the cubby on the right in the rear. The spot you had the orig car pic (I think that was what was there) Just a thought.

CB


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## ChotaBoy (Feb 3, 2009)

I meant Glassing. Not glossing. Sorry. 
CB


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

ChotaBoy said:


> I meant Glassing. Not glossing. Sorry.
> CB


lol, np - i knew what you meant!

if you're talking about this area, it's really too small, probably couldn't even do an 8" there without completely replacing the entire side panel.










plus i've never tried fiberglass before. i do think the wedge shape behind the rear seat will work, just haven't made it a priority to work on that yet.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

the_dealer said:


> That's pretty sweet. I've been wanting to do something like that in my KJ with a 7" Tab4. Do you also have a KJ, or am I thinking of a different person?
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®4 on 38's


thanks!

yup, the girlfriend's 05 Renegade has a simpler install with an LG Verizon G-Pad 8.3, factory audio, and a Kinovo bluetooth receiver. here's the build thread for that little project: A Basic Tablet Setup for GPS & More - Offroad Passport Community Forum

i still need to re-make the main mounting bracket for her though to be more stable.



i think a 7" could fit in place of the stock radio and look really factory with minimal fabrication. we didn't attempt that as she wanted to keep her FM radio and have the tablet not be required since she doesn't bother to take it with her all the time - mainly on road trips.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

other than a couple minor things with the new tablet, my big to-do's are:

- build the subwoofer enclosure (the box it came with is working well, but i know one day i'll want that space back where it's sitting)

- sound deadening/insulation & removing squeaks and rattles. now that the stereo sound so nice, all the other noises are killing me! so now comes the PITA part of tracing down all of them. 

i already glued some extra carpet that i had inside the center console walls. some of the cables from the electronics i put in there were vibrating against the thin plastic and making a tinny rattle on certain rougher streets near my house.

i also am replacing the D-ring tie down points on my rear storage shelf. those rattle like crazy with the subwoofer box attached to it. i bought a couple of these to make sure they would work as a replacement: Amazon.com: Canyon Dancer Tie-Down Strap Ring 90009: Automotive - they did, so now i just need to order 3 more sets and install them.

i'll probably start on deadening and insulating the doors next.


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## the_dealer (Apr 18, 2013)

theksmith said:


> thanks!
> 
> yup, the girlfriend's 05 Renegade has a simpler install with an LG Verizon G-Pad 8.3, factory audio, and a Kinovo bluetooth receiver. here's the build thread for that little project: A Basic Tablet Setup for GPS & More - Offroad Passport Community Forum
> 
> ...


I'd like to find some type of clip and just fiberglass it to the radio bezel so it sits almost flush like a double din or pc screen. I'd still want to easily be able to pop it out of the mount/clip to take out whenever I wasn't in the rig. I'd only do it if there was a clean way to do it like I'm wanting. 

I've come across an ass load of pics of her kj and your wj right before I did the OME lift. I want to say it was on expedition portal, but I do so much Web wheeling I can't remember lol.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Out of curiosity, why do people with Liberty Renegades always seem to leave out the Liberty part when asked about their truck? lol...just had a customer a couple weeks ago that just kept saying "It's a Renegade." 

I happen to like Libertys.

Jay


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

JayinMI said:


> Out of curiosity, why do people with Liberty Renegades always seem to leave out the Liberty part when asked about their truck? lol...just had a customer a couple weeks ago that just kept saying "It's a Renegade."
> 
> I happen to like Libertys.
> 
> Jay


haha, i like the little Libs too, i guess i just said Renegade because i think it overall has a distinctive look. not that you can't put the same tail lights, a light bar and some bushswacker flares on any Liberty...


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

the_dealer said:


> I'd like to find some type of clip and just fiberglass it to the radio bezel so it sits almost flush like a double din or pc screen. I'd still want to easily be able to pop it out of the mount/clip to take out whenever I wasn't in the rig. I'd only do it if there was a clean way to do it like I'm wanting.
> 
> I've come across an ass load of pics of her kj and your wj right before I did the OME lift. I want to say it was on expedition portal, but I do so much Web wheeling I can't remember lol.


i was thinking you could delete the strip of bezel that sits between the radio and the climate controls, then ditch the radio and recess the tablet screen to the same depth as that climate control panel so that the entire area inside the bezel looked seamless... would require a little glassing or probably could just be done with ABS & body filler.


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## the_dealer (Apr 18, 2013)

I was thinking this could be used http://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Aftermarket-Installation-Standard-Harness/dp/B00E8SA5P0

Of course I've seen a lot of guys mod the factory trim like above to use a double din, so shouldn't be that bad. I might start looking for an extra trim piece to play with


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Sweet truck! Nice work on the organization of your comms in the truck, and the wiring is done very neatly also. This build log is inspiring me to take some extra care with my old 4Runner to get things organized for sure. Subscribed.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

The Dude said:


> Sweet truck! Nice work on the organization of your comms in the truck, and the wiring is done very neatly also. This build log is inspiring me to take some extra care with my old 4Runner to get things organized for sure. Subscribed.


thanks!

... and nice username


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

since it's been working out ok, i made a documented how everything is currently setup:



more details: Android Tablet as a Head Unit & GPS - New Install - Page 3 - Offroad Passport Community Forum


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Haha, thanks! Nice layout diagram also. Have to ask, ex-military and/or engineering background?


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

The Dude said:


> Haha, thanks! Nice layout diagram also. Have to ask, ex-military and/or engineering background?


i'm not disciplined enough to have any military experience. primarily a software developer. now i have to ask what led to that question?!?


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Gotcha, hope I did not offend. I was wondering that, due to the attention to detail in the installation, and the high level of organization. Well though out.


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

The Dude said:


> Gotcha, hope I did not offend. I was wondering that, due to the attention to detail in the installation, and the high level of organization. Well though out.


ha, maybe i just have a bit of OCD!

and nothing offensive was said at all. i did almost go to school for mechanical engineering but changed to multimedia instead last minute. and i have nothing but the greatest respect and appreciation for the people that serve our country, military or civilian!


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

new mount is 100% complete i think, paint is dry & everything re-assembled.


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

theksmith said:


> ha, maybe i just have a bit of OCD!
> 
> and nothing offensive was said at all. i did almost go to school for mechanical engineering but changed to multimedia instead last minute. and i have nothing but the greatest respect and appreciation for the people that serve our country, military or civilian!


Very good, agreed. Mount looks great!


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

final shots with the tablet in:


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Looks excellent. The Kenwood piece in the headliner area, is that a VHF, with the brain stashed elsewhere?


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

The Dude said:


> Looks excellent. The Kenwood piece in the headliner area, is that a VHF, with the brain stashed elsewhere?


thanks! the faceplate is for a Kenwood V71A dual-band ham radio (2m & 70cm), and yeah, the guts are hidden under the driver's side knee panel: Kenwood DualBand install in 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ))

i also have APRS integrated with the tablet and ham radio through a bluetooth TNC so i can see on a map where any other hams are is at (that are running APRS) - useful for finding camp or sending someone scouting out a side trail, etc.: APRS via Kenwood TM-V71A, Mobilinkd bluetooth TNC & Android tablet with APRSdroid | theksmith


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

updates...

- just started working on noise dampening, more on that in the next post.

- i've been playing around more with EQ'ing using some absolute basic RTA.

- the sub is still in the original Pioneer sealed box, ratchet strapped down in the back. i like being able to remove it if i absolutely need the space for now. also, my original custom slanted box idea is on hold as i might get a rear bumper & tire carrier soon which would mean completely re-arranging the rear storage platform (and therefore where i'd put a box). this is the bumper i'm considering: Hanson Offroad: Rear Bumpers, WJ Rear Bumper

- not audio related: i made a custom front grille and put in new headlights with HID's (in halogen projector assemblies for now, maybe a full retrofit later). also changed the mounting of my twin Hella horns. writeup on all that here: WJ Front End Refresh (HID's & more....) - Offroad Passport Community Forum


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## theksmith (Dec 2, 2014)

*noise dampening*

first step was tracking down all the obvious rattles. one big culprit were the lashing points on my custom rear shelf thingy... especially since the subwoofer box is currently ratchet-strapped down to the top of it (not shown in this pic):










these guys were the big rattlers:










i replaced them all with these Canyon Dancer Tie Down Rings meant for motorcycles/ATVs/etc.: http://amzn.to/1LWy5qa






next up, the moisture barriers in my doors were trashed... they were made of black plastic with a tar-paper like coating which cracked easily. i wanted to replace them and figured by using closed-cell foam i could also do some noise dampening at the same time.

thus far i've only completed the rear doors, but since it turned out to be so easy, i'll do the front soon too. here are the cracked and torn old door panel films after pulling them off:










had to clean off the butyl rubber "glue" that was holding them on, and a bunch of dust/mud.










i just scraped off that glue stuff, i didn't go back with any solvent to really clean it 100%.










i went with Stinger RoadKill dampening matt. it comes adhesive backed and is a 1/4" thick closed cell foam (won't absorb water). 12 square feet goes for under $50: http://amzn.to/1kNTX0k



i do know MLV is considered the best thing to use, especially for the low frequency noise which i get from mud terrain tires and a turn-down exhaust. however i just couldn't justify the cost of that stuff for an old Jeep. i also liked the convenience of the sticky-backed Stinger pad.

using the old moisture barriers as templates, i was able to easily cut out the new material for application as 1-piece pads so that they would block dust and water from the inside as well.

here i was test fitting the new material on the door panels to make sure all the cutouts for fasteners were correct:










new pad installed:










i also added some DEI Slim (shallow) Boom Mats to protect the speakers from the elements: Amazon.com: DEI

acoustically, my understanding is that these act *sort of* like putting your speaker in a small sealed box. i say "sort-of" because they aren't rigid by any means, so whatever effect they have is minimal really. 

they certainly aren't going to make a speaker have more bass - a common misconception. if anything they might have tightened up the rear 6.5" and improved their power handling, which would be a good thing in my case since they are the lowest rated (wattage capability) of any part of my system. 

i didn't notice any difference in their sound, but when it comes time to do the front 6x9's i'll have to see how they are affected since they're really where most of my volume comes from.



















i almost forgot to takes pics, but i did do a little Dynamat (butyl backed foil) sound deadening. i didn't really have major detectable vibes coming from the metal door panels as the WJ was a luxury vehicle in it's time and so everything is pretty thick and solid.

i just used some small pieces around a few connectors that could rattle against the door and then a few strategic squares. GT Mat Pro (50mil) was the actual product i used: Amazon.com : GTMAT 10 sqft Automotive Audio Dampening 50mil PRO - Noise Reduction Installation Kit Includes: 10sqft (qty 1 - 1ft X 10ft roll), Instruction Sheet, Application Roller, Degreaser, GT MAT Decals : Vehicle Speaker Installation : Car Electr 












while i was at it, i removed the fake wood trim pieces form the plastic door panels in order to paint them metallic grey. i'm slowly deleting all the fake wood inside.










i'm not sure if i can tell the difference yet with only the 2 rear doors done, but the process went quick so i plan to do the front doors next, and then the firewall. i'm sure it will be noticeable once more of the Jeep is dampened and i can certainly used the increased insulation properties to keep that precious A/C inside during Phoenix summers too!


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