# 2010 F150 SuperCrew SQ Build



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Well I've finally decided to do a build log on my 2010 F150 FX4 supercrew. I started the project 4 years ago...but had interruptions along the way which put everything on hold. Recently I've had some extra time so I started back up again, and hopefully this time I can fully completed it! 

On to the equipment choices.....

Head unit - I'm using two---stock and an ipad mini

Processor- Bit One

Front stage- Hertz ML1600 mid bass, Illusion Audio C4 mids, and 
Hertz ML280 tweeters.

Rear Speakers - Left stock to handle phone calls, and truck notifications

Amplifiers - JL slash 300/4 , JL slash300/2 . JL slash 1000/1

Subs - Two Stereo Integrity BMkiii's

Electrical - Platinum Battery up front, Optima yellow top in rear under 
truck on inside frame , PowerGate isolator


Now on to some pictures...the entire floor and back wall have a layer of dynamat extreme, CCF and MLV


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)




----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

This is the voltage transformer for the Pure i20, which takes the extracts a digital signal from the ipad mini


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I also put the relay here that takes the ACC signal from he truck and uses it to supply a remote signal the transformer, the Pure i20 ad also a remote for the bitone


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I fiberglassed the ipad mini were the stock headunit faceplate used to be. I left the stock OEM radio behind which will handle phone calls, setting up the bit one with an analog signal, etc. 

Aso riht below the 4 wheel drive selector I installed a 4 inch monitor to handle the back up camera since the ipad cant accept an "easy" video in, and I didn't have the rear view mirror with he LCD screen in it :-(






I also customized a stock apple 30 pin to lightning connector into a right angle to allow the ipad to be charged an send the signal to the Pure i20


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I also ended up designing and making a plexigass panel for my up fitter switches.


----------



## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Really nice work! Looking forward to the rest.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Sweet job so far, can I ask what part of NJ you're in ?


----------



## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Subscribed. FYI, MrsPapasin has backup camera working on her iPad mini. Not sure I'd call it "easy" but it works pretty well. It's on our Smart "reinstall" build log.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

ok....can you guess what state? :laugh:



I made a template out of cardboard for the hole in the rear doors...and used the template to router out 1/4 inch plexiglass (lexan) to cover. 







Then covered the doors in CCF



And then a layer of MLV just like the rest of the truck. 




let me say...this truck is sooooo quiet!! (quiet on the inside) AND im running on 35 inch mud terrains, with a dual banks exhaust!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I also did some electrical work...the plexiglass mount is just a mock up to get all the holes and everything right...the final one will h rounded over edges and the main power lines will have holes that they go through instead of just laying over the edge....

also...the second battery is supplying the power to the Blue Seas fuse holder which powers the all the aftermarket stuff, like LED offroad lights,AMP running boards,etc


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

papasin said:


> Subscribed. FYI, MrsPapasin has backup camera working on her iPad mini. Not sure I'd call it "easy" but it works pretty well. It's on our Smart "reinstall" build log.


Exactly..easy was the key word! I knew there were options..but didn't want to rely on wifi for it


----------



## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

You'll be able to hear a gnat fart in this truck after he's done... goodness.


----------



## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

Looks great Timeless. That ipad install is clean.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

anyone who has worked on these trucks know that the molex plug in the door jamb is a real PITA! well I need to get 2 sets of speaker wires into the door since my midbass will be seeing 150 watts each...and the mids 75 watts. I could get away with tapping into the stock speaker wire for the mids...but then there are multiple "breaks" in the line....soooooo



14 gauge for the midbass...16 gauge for the midrange



I did have to relocate about 3 pins to other blank spots...


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

NICE job on everything!!!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Does anyone know if the Bit One can stay on the optical output and stay on that setting even when shutting off the truck?? Mine keeps reverting back to the master input which I don't want


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Wow... Looks like it was my over sight... I just tested the 12+ constant on the bitone.. And it's not a constant.. Some how when I did the wiring 2 years ago for the system I grabbed an ACC feed! Doh... Now I have to dig through the techniflex to see why and where I grabbed it from.. Most likely I just came off the "remote" relay instead of using the constant that feeds the relay.. Opps


----------



## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

That sucks, but at least you know where the problem lies.

Where are you putting your midranges? In the sails?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

foamflyer said:


> That sucks, but at least you know where the problem lies.
> 
> Where are you putting your midranges? In the sails?


Yeah! Bit of a pita though getting to that relay.. But at least I figured out what was happening!

The plan right now is to put them in the sails...and to fiberglass the tweets into the A pillar... I figure this is a safe route bc IF u not happy with the midrange sound I can then fiberglass the sail panel to put the mids more on axis. Ford also put a nice groove between the sail and body panel which should make the blending of the fiberglass look factory


----------



## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

Timelessr1 said:


> Yeah! Bit of a pita though getting to that relay.. But at least I figured out what was happening!
> 
> The plan right now is to put them in the sails...and to fiberglass the tweets into the A pillar... I figure this is a safe route bc IF u not happy with the midrange sound I can then fiberglass the sail panel to put the mids more on axis. Ford also put a nice groove between the sail and body panel which should make the blending of the fiberglass look factory


I'm looking forward to the seeing how you do it and how you think it sounds/images with the mids in the sails. Are you planning to abandon the defroster tube that runs up there or do you know how your going to get around it?

I've been thinking about doing mine that way, but I don't really want to cut holes unless I'm 100% that I'm going to love it.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

As of right now I took the defroster vent out... After I mount the 4 inch I'll see if I can some how mold it back.. Most likely not.. Also hoping some TA will help them in the location


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

What does the dynaliner do? Can't you just Do the dynamat extreme and mmlv?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

optimaprime said:


> What does the dynaliner do? Can't you just Do the dynamat extreme and mmlv?


The dynaliner is a closed cell foam which acts as a decoupler between the dynamat and mlv. If course you can just do the dynamat and mlv but the gains won't be as much as if you used the ccf. This hobby is really the sum of all parts.. The more parts done... And done correctly just add to the sound quality..


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Just curious I wanna do my cars floor to make quite . But I don't wanna make so thick I can't put it back together .


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

optimaprime said:


> Just curious I wanna do my cars floor to make quite . But I don't wanna make so thick I can't put it back together .


They make diffrent thickness CCF... I used 1/4 CCF on the floor since there is more "give" in that area. I did have to trim a little off those plastic caps that fit around the seat mounting points.. But that's easy. The doors I used 1/4 inch CCF since it's tough fitting a door card back on if there's too much padding. I'd have to say even if I wasn't into car audio.. I'd still do my car/truck with damping.. It just makes for a better , more relaxing drive


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Got a little more work done.... I'll let the pictures do the talking.....


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Built two sub boxes....the reason was I wanted one box to always stay in the truck under the baby seat. I have a 40 /60 split rear seat and the baby seat is on the 40 split side, and at times I lift the 60 split to take my two boxers where we go...so its easier only moving one small sub box with on sub verse two....


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

This is the home for the JL 300/4...I did have to remove the HVAC piping to fit this....




I also pulled out the plastic screw grommet things and replaced them with nutserts so that the HDPE could really tightened down!


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Thanks for replies build looks very nice .


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I ended up buying a wiring harness that basically is an extension of the OEM wiring which allowed me to cut the aftermarket harness and keep the oem wiring intac. In the pictures I took the oem front output from the radio, and connected it to the rear speaker wires which run to the stock rear speakers in the door which will handle phone calls, and SYNC commands..


----------



## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

I love the way you did your amp racks behind the seat. They tie into the factory mounting points beautifully. Are you going to skip putting the factory jute cover back on or cut it around the amp and that big ol capacitor?

The sub boxes look great!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Yeah... The amp rack has those (feet) that I used angled alluminum for... And the literally mount right on top for the factory seat bolts and right over the seat nuts also.. I then just got extra stainless steel nuts to mount the angled pieces..

Not sure if im putting that rear wall cover on yet.. Really no need for it. 

I'm using the capacitor as a DC conditioner  quiets the DC noise down a bit


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

The build is great ! The amp rack is sweet I love the factory mounts being used. Could a person use jute between the mlv? Instead of the ccf


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

optimaprime said:


> The build is great ! The amp rack is sweet I love the factory mounts being used. Could a person use jute between the mlv? Instead of the ccf


Thanks! I'm not familiar with juke at all... What is that? Dynaliner is actually pretty cheap and light to ship.. I got like 6 or 7 boxes of the stuff... And it was cheap compared to the actual price and shipping charges for dynamat extreme and mlv


----------



## foamflyer (May 12, 2015)

optimaprime said:


> The build is great ! The amp rack is sweet I love the factory mounts being used. Could a person use jute between the mlv? Instead of the ccf


I'm sure you could use jute but things might start getting a little thick. The ccf is just to decouple the mlv and it doesn't need to be thick at all.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

So a little update....

I started working on fords moles plugs in the door ( major pita) and since my head was up under the dash I finally had a chance to see my alarm wiring. At the time I got the alarm installed I didn't have much time so I got a local shop to do it.... Can you say rats nest! I ended up havinging to redo most of it and clean up all the wiring


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

So after cleaning the rats nest I started on the molex plugs. I ended up having to remove and relocate some of the pins so that I could create enough real estate in one are of the plug to make enough room to feed 2 sets of speaker wires through... One set for the tweeter the other for the mid bass


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)




----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I also started working on the a-pillar install for the illusion audio C4's. After getting the first coat of resin on them I just didn't like them... The baffle lip was just too thin for my liking....


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

So I started over... Started with new baffles.... Rounded the top lip a bit... I like it much better 







I'm liking these so much better... Cleaned them up a little with some Rage Extreme, also stiffened them with a coating of milkshake from the backside


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Well I received my set of TM65's about a month ago, and I was procrastinating on switching out my Mille 1600's. I didn't want to go through the hassle of making new baffles. After some measuring I realized it's a direct fit... So there wouldn't be a need for any more routering


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

These sound amazing! Like little mini subs! Don't get me wrong... The Millie's were no slouches but I was only playing them from 70hz to 300hz , which was a waste since they could play much higher. I needed something that really could play that freq band and play it well and loud... The TM65 are measuring up, and they haven't broken in yet!

The only negative about these was part of the installation... The need for plastic washers so you don't twist the surround is just a pain in the ass

Here is also a picture of the back of the door card....


----------



## Mojobandit (Mar 12, 2015)

Absolutely fantastic install. Your attention to detail, quality products, and impressive skill set are all very obvious in this build. I would love to have the opportunity to hear a system built to this standard!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Mojobandit said:


> Absolutely fantastic install. Your attention to detail, quality products, and impressive skill set are all very obvious in this build. I would love to have the opportunity to hear a system built to this standard!


Thank you! 

I'm currently in the process of finishing up the pillars. I was having some adhesion issues with the Rage on the stock pillars where I was feathering the edges. I picked up some stuff called Filler Prep... Seems to do the trick very well!


http://www.urethanesupply.com/Filler-Prep-1/


----------



## dawaro (Jul 22, 2015)

Timelessr1 said:


> So I started over... Started with new baffles.... Rounded the top lip a bit... I like it much better
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So how do you like the soundstage with the mids in the pillars? I have a 2014 SCREW that I am currently working on and I am trying to decide between installing the mids in the pillars or the sail panels. I have tried to find other examples of F150's with mids in the sail but I haven't come across a whole lot of them.

I am currently in the process of building fiberglass enclosures for the bottom half of the door to hold an Anarchy woofer and the top end is a LGK 1.0 mid and a Seas neo tweeter.


----------



## lostthumb (Dec 16, 2005)

Timelessr1 said:


> I'm liking these so much better... Cleaned them up a little with some Rage Extreme, also stiffened them with a coating of milkshake from the backside


Awesome work sir. May I ask how do you plan in finishing them? For example wrapping or painting them?


----------



## aholland1198 (Oct 7, 2009)

Is it just my phone or are the pictures not showing up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

dawaro said:


> So how do you like the soundstage with the mids in the pillars? I have a 2014 SCREW that I am currently working on and I am trying to decide between installing the mids in the pillars or the sail panels. I have tried to find other examples of F150's with mids in the sail but I haven't come across a whole lot of them.
> 
> I am currently in the process of building fiberglass enclosures for the bottom half of the door to hold an Anarchy woofer and the top end is a LGK 1.0 mid and a Seas neo tweeter.


They sound amazing!! The only thing that would have been better is if they were a smaller driver so that I could fit them farther towards to windshield.. But with the helix DSP pro.. I should be able to dial them in. As for the sails in our trucks... They suck.. They have an angle to them which aims slightly down and towards the front of the truck :-( at one point im going to do some angle pods on those and use the factory cut of line as the transition


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

lostthumb said:


> Awesome work sir. May I ask how do you plan in finishing them? For example wrapping or painting them?


Thank you! I'm painting them due to the factory grab bar on the passenger side... Would have been a nightmare wrapping. I'm using Duplicor mx101 textured paint... But this color is too grey for me... I need to buy some MX100 instead


----------



## Gomer Pilot (Nov 30, 2014)

I did the same thing initially with my tweets in my 14 SCREW and ran the L3SE in the pillar. Ended up getting irritated mostly just with that angle of the tweets and ended up moving everything into the pillar. 

Loving this build. Holy dynamat.


----------



## dawaro (Jul 22, 2015)

Timelessr1 said:


> Thank you! I'm painting them due to the factory grab bar on the passenger side... Would have been a nightmare wrapping. I'm using Duplicor mx101 textured paint... But this color is too grey for me... I need to buy some MX100 instead


See if you can find SEM graphite. From what I have been told it is a dead on match for the color.


----------



## dawaro (Jul 22, 2015)

Gomer Pilot said:


> I did the same thing initially with my tweets in my 14 SCREW and ran the L3SE in the pillar. Ended up getting irritated mostly just with that angle of the tweets and ended up moving everything into the pillar.
> 
> Loving this build. Holy dynamat.


Do you have any pictures of your pillars?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

dawaro said:


> See if you can find SEM graphite. From what I have been told it is a dead on match for the color.


I'm not to worried about getting a match... Just close... And the problem is that the duplicolor mx101 I used is enamel paint and you can't use a laquer based paint over it


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks to another member on here I was able to find a custom remote set up for the Helix pro... I installed it into one of my spare cubbies next to the iPad. The knob on the right is for master volume, the left knob is sub volume, the switch and led act the same as on the URC 2a remote...


----------



## cjbrownco (Apr 30, 2014)

Sorry to bump an older thread, but I like your install and it gives me a couple ideas for mine.


----------



## USP45 (Mar 20, 2016)

I am in for some updates as well. I am doing a 2011 F350 which is somewhat different from the 150 but I am running into the same issues with the molex plugs in the doors and doing the a pillars. The superduty's have that grab handle on both sides and i need to mount some L3se's so I would love to see how the pillars came out once painted. I could do the speaker pods that the guy in Germany makes and they look ok, but I would much rather have them integrated into the pillars.


----------



## 1990tsi (Dec 9, 2011)

love the build. curious to why you didn't use any of your deadening products on the firewall. with the center console out, the dash is about 25 minutes more work. I'm pulling my dash soon to get better access to the molex connectors for my door speakers and was going to put a layer of dynamat (and mlv if I can source it locally) back there on my 2015. Just wondering if there was a good reason that you didn't?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

There was no reason that I didn't pull the dash except for the fact I was on a deadline and it would have added overall another couple hours to the install at a point I needed the truck back together.

I semi- finished the a pillars.. Just have to finish painting one side.. And put a final finish on the driver side pillar. I'll get a few pics up...


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

just met Timelessr1 here and got to check out his install and tune it. im really impressed with his install and how it sounds. before the tune with just basic TA and crossovers it sounded pretty good. After the tune was a different animal. keep it up!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. Good to hear about members meeting other members and coming away with a good experience.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks SkizeR! The Eq tune really woke up the system! The center stage now is so solid it's unreal! 

And the fact that you spent almost 4 hrs with me tuning speaks hugely on you character! I know you didn't have to help.. But the fact you did..speaks volumes! Thank you!!

Now I just have to finish the little details like the a pillar paint and covers


----------



## Newellzie (Apr 27, 2016)

The adjustment knobs are really well done. I hope mine comes out that good aha


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

anytime. i still gotta send you some of my favorite tracks to evaluate with


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Finally got around to finishing up the A pillars. They hold 4 inch Illusions very well and sound amazing!! It was def a challenge with the grab handle.. But I think it turned out pretty stock looking besides being so large


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Drivers side....


----------



## adriancp (Feb 12, 2012)

These look great!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dayuummm son

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DAM NICE!!!!!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks guys! Maybe I should charge $100 for them ;-) hahah you know... For materials


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Timelessr1 said:


> Thanks guys! Maybe I should charge $100 for them ;-) hahah you know... For materials


I'd pay 17 dollars for those pillars

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> I'd pay 17 dollars for those pillars
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Since they are so easy to make.. Sold.. Haha


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Damn man I love it! I have 2013 fx4 crew cab with Sony system and close to digging in it .


----------



## Kenny_Cox (Sep 9, 2007)

I'll take a set! Nice work!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Holy ****, how did I miss this build! Awesome stuff man! 
I like the diamond plate on the side of the sub box, cool idea... Can you see it from the side when truck door's open?


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> Holy ****, how did I miss this build! Awesome stuff man!
> I like the diamond plate on the side of the sub box, cool idea... Can you see it from the side when truck door's open?


Thanks! And yes.. You see the entire side of the sub boxes when the doors are open ... Reason I went with the diamond plate is bc I have a diamond back cover over my truck bed... Tried to keep the consistency ;-)


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

If possible, I would love to see what that bed cover looks like.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

I would pay you to build me some pillars !!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Timelessr1 said:


> Thanks! And yes.. You see the entire side of the sub boxes when the doors are open ... Reason I went with the diamond plate is bc I have a diamond back cover over my truck bed... Tried to keep the consistency ;-)


Cool, any pics of that? The box and the bed cover...


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Here ya go Copper...






If you were closer Optima I'd def help ya... It's tough doing pillars without the car.. Aiming is really tough bc pillars don't always have a mirror of each other


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^ I totally agree with you about that part, and I'm loving the look of the bed cover. We'll have to meet up soon so that I can check out what you've done with your truck.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Yup good old Oklahoma boonies strikes again.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. That's one place that I can say during my business travels, I've never been to.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

It's not a recent photo but it's close.


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Coppertone said:


> ^^^ I totally agree with you about that part, and I'm loving the look of the bed cover. We'll have to meet up soon so that I can check out what you've done with your truck.


maybe a spur of the moment fall get together?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> It's not a recent photo but it's close.


I'm likin' those SRT wheels a lot!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> maybe a spur of the moment fall get together?


That's a possibility  I'd be down


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

If I don't need knee surgery, then I'll be able to make the trek up that way for sure.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> I'm likin' those SRT wheels a lot!


Thank you, but you should see then when they are cleaned as well as the truck.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Here's the front and my poor photo taking skills lol.


----------



## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Whta a great thread build. Dude you have some AWESOME skills!!

Questions:

1. Are the molex plugs OEM with your modifications or did you install new plugs altogether...OR...I am afraid to ask, did you make those molex plugs?

2. The dash of the 2010 must be much different than the 2008 like mine because I do not have those areas below the 4WD control know to mount any controls (like your DSP knobs).

I have another question, but will quote a picture from you in a separate post...

AMAZING!!


----------



## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Timelessr1 said:


> I also ended up designing and making a plexigass panel for my up fitter switches.


What are fitter switches? I assume for towing etc? I really like the row of buttons just fore of the Ford logo. I have been sketching for a few days on something to go in the exact spot on my truck. In my case, I want to have multiple USB and HDMI inputs for the various connections and charger inputs to the back of my head unit. I hate cords in my truck so I want a row of switches where each switch is a retractable cord (one lightning, one USB, one HDMI, etc). Yes, unfortunately, I need each one as one USB or HDMI will not control everything my 4200nex offers.

My issue, thusfar, is make the "retracting" part work. I have the cords, the grommets, the adapters etc. I even bought a retracting device but it only works if you PULL both ends of the cord. In my case, one end of the cord is fixed (inserted) into the back of the HU. So.....trying to figure out how to make it all work. 

Anyway...your build and talents are way cool. I am totally envious of your skillset.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

ARCuhTEK said:


> Whta a great thread build. Dude you have some AWESOME skills!!
> 
> Questions:
> 
> ...



Thanks! 

Yes the big Molex plugs are OEM...and the weird thing was certain models didn't have them even within the same year truck! I wish mine didn't have them, bc they were a pain to get full run of wire through.

and yes i believe the 2008's and 2010's are def diffrent with how they spaced out the dash. the area where i put the volume knobs is where Ford puts the trailer brake controller for my year truck. on the other side was just a cubby, so thats where i put the small monitor for the back up camera as well as the video monitor to see what the headrest monitors are playing









ARCuhTEK said:


> What are fitter switches? I assume for towing etc? I really like the row of buttons just fore of the Ford logo. I have been sketching for a few days on something to go in the exact spot on my truck. In my case, I want to have multiple USB and HDMI inputs for the various connections and charger inputs to the back of my head unit. I hate cords in my truck so I want a row of switches where each switch is a retractable cord (one lightning, one USB, one HDMI, etc). Yes, unfortunately, I need each one as one USB or HDMI will not control everything my 4200nex offers.
> 
> My issue, thusfar, is make the "retracting" part work. I have the cords, the grommets, the adapters etc. I even bought a retracting device but it only works if you PULL both ends of the cord. In my case, one end of the cord is fixed (inserted) into the back of the HU. So.....trying to figure out how to make it all work.
> 
> Anyway...your build and talents are way cool. I am totally envious of your skillset.



The push button switches you see control the radar detector, LED lights in the cab, power to the rear headrests( in case the kids act up and i threaten to shut them off) and one controls the 4 - 8 inch round LED off road lights mounted behind the grill

If i was you i'd look for a female adapter for the usb and hdmi that can be mounted flush on a plexi piece like i have. I've seen them around...like on amazon...like a usb pass through that flush mounts. This way the only cords can be fully removed and you are just left with an OEM looking female plug


----------



## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Timelessr1 said:


> If i was you i'd look for a female adapter for the usb and hdmi that can be mounted flush on a plexi piece like i have. I've seen them around...like on amazon...like a usb pass through that flush mounts. This way the only cords can be fully removed and you are just left with an OEM looking female plug


The problem with femal plugs is that I have to have a slew of cords lying around in the truck and that undermines the whole idea of my concept (no cords in the truck). I do not HAVE to undertake that aspect of my project because frankly we all have cords lying around in the vehicle these days. I just had a vision and am trying to make it happen. I dream of pulling a power cord from a spot on the dash, plugging it in, then when done, disconnect and that sucker retracts. No more slinging cables, cords or looking for that one cord that I forgot that I took back into the house yesterday...


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

ARCuhTEK said:


> The problem with femal plugs is that I have to have a slew of cords lying around in the truck and that undermines the whole idea of my concept (no cords in the truck). I do not HAVE to undertake that aspect of my project because frankly we all have cords lying around in the vehicle these days. I just had a vision and am trying to make it happen. I dream of pulling a power cord from a spot on the dash, plugging it in, then when done, disconnect and that sucker retracts. No more slinging cables, cords or looking for that one cord that I forgot that I took back into the house yesterday...


got ya! that makes sense....just remember though...that retracting mechanism...Im sure was made in China  so design it that it can be swapped out fairly easily when it doesn't retract anymore.

oh..and upfitter switches was a term used with the Raptor switches that went in the same exact spot...


like this...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...an-car-craft&gclid=CLbL06T8qdQCFY5MDQodcDwGUg


----------



## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Most definitely thinking through the whole idea that if the retracting mechanism screws up, I can either redo it, or abandon it cleanly (recap the newly drilled holes in the console etc).


----------



## rob3980 (Jun 11, 2010)

This install is great. Can't wait to finish up my install in my 15 Lariat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

So i ended up scraping the TM65's and was able to fit some JL ZR800's


----------



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

My man.. How do they sound?

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> My man.. How do they sound?
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


Only had time to put one in...hopefully Thursday the passenger door one will go in! If all is good I might leave the wood baffles for the GTG and afterwards use the wood ones as a template for the HDPE baffles


----------



## cjbrownco (Apr 30, 2014)

I used the JL's in my 09 super crew when I had it and they sounded amazing. I had to trim just a little bit of metal but definitely worth it.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

cjbrownco said:


> I used the JL's in my 09 super crew when I had it and they sounded amazing. I had to trim just a little bit of metal but definitely worth it.


At first glance and trial fit , i thought i was going to have to trim a good amount of metal...but after mocking up the baffle and realizing the speaker tapers as it goes back..it was minimal trimming as you noted. 

my door is def heavily damped, so I'm thinking i'll have minimal rattles..and I'm not planning on running them full tilt just enough to get a little punch up front as well as anchor the sub to the front stage


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Man I need to get to work on 13 super crew cab or crew cab . What ever the biggestest cab is called by Ford 150


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Those zr800 look ? fantastic


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

optimaprime said:


> Man I need to get to work on 13 super crew cab or crew cab . What ever the biggestest cab is called by Ford 150


Yeah Ford calls it a SuperCrew... I love my 2010 but I don't think I'd buy a new one...too many issues with them that Ford had decades to redesign and fix and never did..leaving the problems on the table, and the customer to deal with

I can't wait to get both in and dial the gain in to really hear what they can do


----------



## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Lol funny you should post that....my 2014 ecoboost supercrew hit a washboard section on a gravel road yesterday and shut off......had to have it towed to the dealership and am still waiting to hear what's going on.


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

555nova said:


> Lol funny you should post that....my 2014 ecoboost supercrew hit a washboard section on a gravel road yesterday and shut off......had to have it towed to the dealership and am still waiting to hear what's going on.


Just stalked out? I'm guessing fuse 27 for the fuel pump melted. Another awesome design fault by Ford :-( fuse legs are too small to handle the current!


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Cleaning up some tweeter wiring...


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Instead of taking the time to make the other baffle out of wood only to have to replace it with n hope baffle, I just made it the right way first...


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Ok, passenger side mounted.. but the door card is touching the surround..looks like I'm going to have to counter sink the mud into the baffle by about 1/4 inch or more... no biggie... the hope is an inch thick


----------



## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

So I ended up with a slight issue with installing these ZR800's

Turned out when i used a 3/4 HDPE the speaker was way to close to the door card, hitting it at high volumes...so i rabbeted the baffle to counter sink the speaker into the door more. ends up it worked great resolving the hitting the door card issue. BUT now it hit the window...just barely but enough youd hear a clunk!

So i decided to redo the baffle completely... I used .47 inch Plxi as the main baffle using the old baffle as a template
























After testing the window..it worked awesome! So then i added the green 3/4 plexi to the dront of the baffle to act as a spacer to make sure the door card stayed far enough from the driver, and jsut put CCF on those pieces to make sure there wasnt going to be any vibrations!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Looking great and that was a wise solution for that.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Niceeeeeeeeeee


----------



## HeyWaj10 (Nov 14, 2011)

@Timelessr1 - just came across this build log. Since the original pictures don't appear correctly, do you have a link to all these pictures somewhere? I have a 2012 Screw and would love some inspiration/ideas. Thanks!


----------



## kwametx (Aug 1, 2011)

Just found this. Planning a install for my 2012 F-150. Nice work here. I'll b copying that 8" midbass in the door, but using at HAT L8v1 instead. Thanks for sharing.


----------

