# Hertz Tweeters



## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

After getting stuck with a couple HSK165 kits that I couldn't sell, I have decided to use them.....for the most part.

Here is where I am at now:










The 2006-2008 HT25 tweeters are a bit harsh and before I make them a permanent home in a custom pod/panel, I would rather look at replacing them.

Here are my choices:

- *Hertz Space 1* (_similar to ML28 but affordable, still chamber tuneable, friendly, black/sexy. #1 choice_)

- *2005 Hertz HT20R* (_Mylar membrane ribbon SuperTweeter, 10k @ 18db/oct, 100w - possible 'hole' in system response_)
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_ht20r.pdf

- *2010 version Hertz HT20, HT25, HT28 *(_new version vs my 2006 model HT25 - ALTHOUGH UGLY, LAST CHOICE_)


Running the HD500 Mid, what would you guys do, those who have a little Hertz experience.....?

Thanks,
Allan


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

I should also add, for those wondering how I came up with the oddball Crossover points.....

*The entire front stage is based around the the HD500 Mids*. Everything else just has to fall into place and learn to 'play nice'....lol

I realize that this will never be an MLK3 Setup, but I sure can try with what I have......


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

the space1/ml28 tweeter would be my pick of the bunch....imo, one of the best sounding out there.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

amitaF said:


> the space1/ml28 tweeter would be my pick of the bunch....imo, one of the best sounding out there.


Mine too oddly enough. I am just wondering if looking to a 28mm tweeter is a bit retarded considering my upper X-over point ? Counter-productive ? or could it be considered, just, a SAFE bet guarunteed to work.

That is what lead me to look at perhaps a 20mm, in either the 2005 HT20R or the 2010 HT20.

Another point to consider, I am not sure if my Obsessive-Compulsive-Dissorder will allow me to have a Mid and Tweeter the same size....lol (just kidding)...


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## Pirate4x4_camo (Aug 23, 2010)

Sort of off the subject but if you don't mind sharing. Do you know the msrp of all your choices ? Including the ml28 

Thanks
Camo


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Pirate4x4_camo said:


> Sort of off the subject but if you don't mind sharing. Do you know the msrp of all your choices ? Including the ml28
> 
> Thanks
> Camo


Not really MSRP...but availability and Ebay Italy pricing.

I popped my Ebay-Italy cherry recently with a purchase of my HD500 Mids and have no problems going back for anything else I need now that is harder to find over here, as local Hertz Italian dealers post there.

Everything I am looking at is more or less $200 USD or less, shipped.


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## podsmack (Aug 12, 2010)

I have the Hertz Space 6L system in my kicks and they do pretty well using the large chambers... 
Been running them for a year now with no issues.
I like the ML28 it's definitely one of the better car audio brand tweeters I've owned over the last 20 years...


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## bumbabeef (Aug 11, 2010)

Allan74 said:


> Not really MSRP...but availability and Ebay Italy pricing.
> 
> I popped my Ebay-Italy cherry recently with a purchase of my HD500 Mids and have no problems going back for anything else I need now that is harder to find over here, as local Hertz Italian dealers post there.
> 
> Everything I am looking at is more or less $200 USD or less, shipped.


Do you speak italian?


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

bumbabeef said:


> Do you speak italian?


NOPE. Not a single word.

Thankfully, being Canadian and having French drilled into our heads in our educational system, now allows me to look at Italian as well as Spanish and atleast have a rough idea of what is trying to be communicated.


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## bumbabeef (Aug 11, 2010)

I was trying to find out how much shipping was from ebay italy.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

The Space 1 and ML28 are the same exact tweeter and one of my favorites. Can't go wrong with them.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Case Closed.....

ML28's found and purchased.


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## emak212 (Apr 13, 2010)

Nice diagram... if you don't mind me asking, what did you use to create it? I heard google sketch is pretty sweet but I've never tried it.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

emak212 said:


> Nice diagram... if you don't mind me asking, what did you use to create it? I heard google sketch is pretty sweet but I've never tried it.


Simple screenshot of a Hertz PDF file, then cut/edited in Photoshop.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Allan74..

Good choice on the 28's I run them and the ONLY thing I would upgrade to is a ML280S (down the road) otherwise they are perfect..
I have an all Hertz setup and I am never loooking back..
It looks like you have the 3.20W passive xover PDF..
So you are going to go with (2) HV165s in the doors?
The HD500 is a great mid, I played around with one before going the HL70 route..
What I would try if I were you is dropping the ML28 to the tune of 2800Hz and run the HD500 from about 550 or so to 2850
And if you can, put some more power behind the ML28, it is RATED at 180w

Goo dluck on the Hertz setup, you will be very pleased..


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Thunderplains said:


> Good choice on the 28's I run them and the ONLY thing I would upgrade to is a ML280S (down the road) otherwise they are perfect....


Next setup for me will be something using ML500R's and ML1600's......but atleast still Hertz all the way 



Thunderplains said:


> It looks like you have the 3.20W passive xover PDF....


It's a Photoshop copy/paste combo of a few PDF's, as it was originally saddled with the HL70 Mid and a single HV165.



Thunderplains said:


> So you are going to go with (2) HV165s in the doors?..


I am actually still on the fence, in regards to my FINAL Midbass setup and am actually considering running a single HV200/door rather than the dual HV165's.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...6-hv165-vs-hv200-vs-2010-hv165l-vs-ml165.html



Thunderplains said:


> The HD500 is a great mid, I played around with one before going the HL70 route..
> What I would try if I were you is dropping the ML28 to the tune of 2800Hz and run the HD500 from about 550 or so to 2850
> And if you can, put some more power behind the ML28, it is RATED at 180w..


The main reason I wanted to go a bit higher up for a x-over point, was to let the Mids shine, but this is why I post here.......I LOVE HEARING PERSONAL EXPERIENCES such as yours. This helps IMMENSLY.

I am considering ditching the SRx2 65x2 and running the Bridged SRx4 170x2 to the HD500's and ML28's using either a Hertz Space passive x-over (that have the simple time delay circuit) or a Mille MLCX-20 passive x-over, with a similar x-over point to what you suggested above, since the 2 will share a common EQ channel on my AudioControl DQS anyways, so why not an amplifier channel(s) as well........although I may try to find a matching old-school-blue SRx amplifier to add to the system, but I am trying to keep current draw down as low as possible.

Thank you very much for the comments.
Please feel free to keep them coming.

I want this system to be PERFECT before it becomes......_Permanent_ 

Cheers,
Allan


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Allan,

IF you go the Audiocontrol route (Which is where I was before the P99) Go DQS, you have everything you need right there..

I run the ML28, HL70 and ML165 w/ (2) ML3000s the front end is running about 178w per speaker and the MLs around 1010w each. I can get this up to the point where I could not hear you talk 1 foot in front of me, yelling maybe.. CLEAR as day, no distortion, noise nothing.. and it can keep going.. You should hear the subs running over 2000w of power..
all class D.. I tried out the ML500.. Nope, not happening.. You have to aim that just right.. drop Ibanzil a note, he ran a MLK3 setup in comps..
Hold your breath.. grapevine has it that a Mille MID is on it's way out this fall..
That's when the HL70 comes out and the new goes in.. I figure when I get the extra $$, I'll upgrade the 165 to 1600's, but otherwise the setup rocks..
You really will not need 2 mid-bass, the heartz can take a boat load of power and the output to match..


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

also, after hearing the new 165XLs, they are real close to the ML165s, but brighter..
All up to you though..


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

This is all my equipment that is ready to go.....still showing the dual midbass though, which is the last thing to change hopefully.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Allen..

Good setup.. You have a lot going on their, can I make a suggestion?

The setup you have minus the audison amps, is almost a mirror image of what I
had pre P99.. I did WAY WAY too much talking to AC directly and having
many discussions with my local dealer, and based on what we came up with,
This is what I suggest.

Use the X890 HU and X the front spks and the sub there..
Get rid of all the AC stuff (sell, it will) except the DDS, get a DQX
run the front off the DQX, it has everything you need to make it shine..
Run the sub directly to the sub amp. You think you need the epicenter?
Makes the system, ALOT simpler.. Right now as far as trouble shooting goes,
it might be a pain in the A$$ if you start running into feedback or GLs.. Lots of RCAs and power connections.. 

I feel it would make your life ALOT easier AND you can play with the Xovers to tune to your liking (instead of modules in the XS series) 
I am thinking you might end up with some extra $$ by selling off the AC stuff as the DQX is not that $$..
I can not speak to the epicenter, but I don't know of many people running one on here..

Your amps are great.. Audison is awesome, even the SRx series..
And the spks.. well.. what can I say.. Hertz. 

Seriously though, simplify it man.. It will sound better, you will have more flexibility and less to work thru if you have issues.. Plus I saved you about 25 hours of phones calls by going that direction


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Now that I am thinking about it.. Run one set of HV165s and the SRX2s at 200x2 at 4ohm.. You want clean up front.. I think it would matter a little less with the sub, but I would stick to 4ohm or even 8ohm up front..

Like I mentioned earlier, I am running 172w from a Leviathan to my ML165s and when i have it loud, you can't even think, never mind hear.. and that's only with one set 

Soo..

X890
SUB out to SRx2S
FRONT out to DQX to SRx2, SRx4 & SRx2S

Cross Front / Sub at HU (if possible, it not then a DQXS is in play)

Use the DQX for the front end, VERY flexible and one point of tuning, run amps all flat.

Clean simple.. Not sure on the Epicenter though, you will have to ask around on that.. I did not need it..

I was crossing my DNX9140 at 12db/80 (was also playing with 12/63 as well, went with 80) front to sub and using the subsonic on the amp set at about 27Hz

33db is quite steep.. Where did you get your slopes and x-over points?

Another thought, why the capacitor in between the mid-basses (if you run 2) just run them in series to get you 2ohm load,
but I jump back to my earlier, run 4ohm single pumping 200w per channel into 1.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

If I was in CT, I would have let you hear the setup I had with the DQX.. WOuld have sold you right there..

You know, you COULD sell ALL the AC stuff and the extra spks you have and get a BitOne. Problem solved.

But I like AC stuff.. American made goodness..


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## Onyx1136 (Mar 15, 2009)

Alan, I love your enthusiasm, but it looks like you've gone a little overboard with the AC processors. I don't know what all 4 of those pieces would cost together, but using a Bit1 instead of 4 independent processors seems like an easier route to me. It'll do everything you need it to and more, but in a single chassis. Plus it cuts the number of RCA connectors from 11 to 5. Even if you're using cheap RCA's that represents a significant savings. And I haven't even begun to describe what a nightmare gain setting can be with that many processors in line. Like I said, love your enthusiasm, but many times in mobile audio less is more. Good luck.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Onyx1136 said:


> Alan, I love your enthusiasm, but it looks like you've gone a little overboard with the AC processors. I don't know what all 4 of those pieces would cost together, but using a Bit1 instead of 4 independent processors seems like an easier route to me. It'll do everything you need it to and more, but in a single chassis. Plus it cuts the number of RCA connectors from 11 to 5. Even if you're using cheap RCA's that represents a significant savings. And I haven't even begun to describe what a nightmare gain setting can be with that many processors in line. Like I said, love your enthusiasm, but many times in mobile audio less is more. Good luck.



Gain settings.. Good point.. Damn.. and right on with less is more.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Some of the AC stuff was leftovers that are being re-used thankfully, although the DQS/DDC are new additions. I also own a mixed module kit from the old days all @ 18db/oct....lol

I decided against a BitOne and/or MS-8 because they would have me forced to run atleast 1 set of passive x-overs to achive my goal and I wanted a true 3-way active setup up front. I also didn't really care about any specific processing, other than EQ truthfully.

This is more or less a throwback to the old days - I see it as a simple system, although you guys may be right.....it's a bit over complicated in places.

I just wanted the utmost in CONTROL.....especially from the EQ, being split to service 3 seperate channel sets, each active without disturbing the others (sub, tweeter/mid and Midbass seperately).

This also allow me to take the HU completely out of the equation and replace it on a whim, with another tri-out deck of my choosings and not be limited to x-over features built in. Using the same train of thought, I also decided against using any amplifier built-in x-overs for the same reason.....

As far as gain settings go, I am acustomed to the AudioControl voltage dummy lights and have never had a problem setting up my signal path, even stacking multiples.

Thanks again guys,
I really appreciate the feedback.
Allan


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Thunderplains said:


> Another thought, why the capacitor in between the mid-basses (if you run 2) just run them in series to get you 2ohm load,
> but I jump back to my earlier, run 4ohm single pumping 200w per channel into 1.


I almost forgot to properly address that.....
I have them shown in parallel to achive a 2ohm load to the amp and draw out the power, as both are 4ohm drivers.

It's actually a coil. Both midbass's share main ELECTRONIC crossover points of 90-725hz. The second midbass will simply begin to roll off a little earlier (@200hz) with the coil in front of it and not play as high as the second. Make sense ?


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## Onyx1136 (Mar 15, 2009)

Just so we're clear, neither the Bit1 nor the MS-8 would require you to use any passive crossovers if you were running a 3 way active front stage plus sub. They both have a total of 8 output channels, which is exactly 1 more than you require for your setup. 

Either way, I'd ditch the Epicenter. In an age where all your music sources are digital, it's a useless piece of electronic equipment. It adds sub-bass that never existed in the original recording, and IME overemphasizes the last 2 octaves or so. It may have been a great piece of kit when tape decks with sub-par resolution and frequency response were the norm, but it serves no purpose in this decade. Strictly my opinion though. 

Good luck.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

So, the BitOne could provide me with the following? :

- Active Dedicated FRONT STEREO Tweeter HIGHPASS channels.
- Active Dedicated FRONT STEREO Midrage BANDPASS channels.
- Active Dedicated FRONT STEREO Midbass BANDPASS channels.
...obviously a mono subwoofer channel.

All the reading that I did led me to believe that I would NOT have that second all important BANDPASS channel for my mids. Please clarify.

This is the same reason I am NOT using an AC 6XS and have 2 x-overs in it's place (that and I wanted 3 stereo channel flexibility from the HU to the amps).


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## jimbno1 (Apr 14, 2008)

Quote straight from the MS-8 OM

A high-pass filter can be combined with a low-pass filter to create a third type of filter,
called a band-pass filter. A band-pass filter sends the band of frequencies between
the high-pass and low-pass crossover frequencies to a speaker while attenuating the
frequencies below the high-pass crossover frequency and above the low-pass crossover
frequency. This type of filter is used to prevent lower and higher frequencies from reachingmidrange speakers in three-way speaker systems.

Also

For example: If your front left and right speaker system consists of a pair of coaxial
speakers (one left and one right), or components with their own passive crossover
connected to two of the MS-8’s outputs (either speaker outputs or line outputs
connected to an outboard power amplifier), choose 1 way. If your front speakers
consist of a component system where the tweeters and the midranges will each be
connected to separate output channels, choose 2 way. If your front system consists of
separate tweeters, midrange and midbass, with each connected to a separate
channel, choose 3 way.


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## jimbno1 (Apr 14, 2008)

However there is a limitation if you want to use center or rear speakers. Then you would run out of channels from MS-8. But you could use the MS-8 plus the AC 4xs if you wanted to implement 3-way plus 2-way center and use passives for the rear speakers. 

In fact to implement the 3.5 way you will need to do some kind of filter for the second midbass outside of the MS-8. 

I wish the MS-8 would have come with 15 or 16 channels out and no internal amps. But fat chance of that. 

I am planning a 2-way front and 2-way center + rears and sub and I still need the AC 4xs since I don't have center passive crossover.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Allan74 said:


> So, the BitOne could provide me with the following? :
> 
> - Active Dedicated FRONT STEREO Tweeter HIGHPASS channels.
> - Active Dedicated FRONT STEREO Midrage BANDPASS channels.
> ...


Allan,

Seriously.. Ask around.. There are SO many people on here that run the BitOne in a full active 4 way (tweet/midR/midB up front and Sub in rear) and it works like a dream. Get your laptop and tune from the front seat. So much less complex and clean.
I understand where you are coming from, BUT what you are wanting to do CAN be done with a BitOne. Hell, I sold off my AC stuff when I got the P99, it does everything.. So I go from HU to Amp..
Honestly, the less complex you make it, the easier it will be to get you up and running. Plus with the BitOne, you can change slopes, xovers, phase, etc right from the front seat, see what it sounds like keep it or change it FOR EVERYTHING in your system.
And I do agree with you, set it up so you can yank the HU at any time..
My gut says you will save yourself alot of grief...

The MS-8 is an excellent piece of hardware, but I would venture to say that there is alot more BitOne experiance here.. Drop a line to Ibanzil, bikinpunk, Buzzman..

Take a look at this.. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-most-worthwhile-addition-my-signal-path.html

Anyways, just trying to help you make a good choice up front, rather than redoing and redoing and redoing..


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## JWPOORE (Feb 8, 2007)

Thunderplains said:


> Allan,
> 
> Seriously.. Ask around.. There are SO many people on here that run the BitOne in a full active 4 way (tweet/midR/midB up front and Sub in rear) and it works like a dream. Get your laptop and tune from the front seat. So much less complex and clean.


Without starting a new thread on some of the same questions, I have a question on going "active" and using an Audsion Bit 1. I too will be running a 3-way set upfront (Hertz HT25 tweets, HD500 Mids, HV200 Midbass) all run by two Arc Audio KS 300.4 amps, (90 x 4 mids/tweets), (350 x 2 midbass off bridged 4 channel). So that takes up 6 channels right?

Then I'm going to run a pair of Hertz HX 250D subs off an Arc KS 1000.1 (450 watts x 2), so that would the remaining 2 channels right? What if I want to add my rear fill speakers as well which are the Hertz HSK 165 components run by an Arc KS 300.2 (180 x 2)? Would they have to run passive or what options are there to incorporate them into the system with only 8 channels available on the Bit One?

Sorry to hijack thread, but I am having many questions similiar to this post. Thanks for any input or suggestions.


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

JWPOORE said:


> Without starting a new thread on some of the same questions, I have a question on going "active" and using an Audsion Bit 1. I too will be running a 3-way set upfront (Hertz HT25 tweets, HD500 Mids, HV200 Midbass) all run by two Arc Audio KS 300.4 amps, (90 x 4 mids/tweets), (350 x 2 midbass off bridged 4 channel). So that takes up 6 channels right?
> 
> Then I'm going to run a pair of Hertz HX 250D subs off an Arc KS 1000.1 (450 watts x 2), so that would the remaining 2 channels right? What if I want to add my rear fill speakers as well which are the Hertz HSK 165 components run by an Arc KS 300.2 (180 x 2)? Would they have to run passive or what options are there to incorporate them into the system with only 8 channels available on the Bit One?
> 
> Sorry to hijack thread, but I am having many questions similiar to this post. Thanks for any input or suggestions.




First Question. Yes, 6 channels And I have to say I have not seen the HD500 mentioned in awhile.. New found interest??

One sub on each channel, yes. And for the rest, ask yourself this (it is what answered it for me) Who is listening to music in the back seat? For me?
my 1 year when she is with me, and the system is basically off, but the other 90% of the time, no one. So why take away from the front end? It is where you are, no?


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## JWPOORE (Feb 8, 2007)

Thunderplains said:


> First Question. Yes, 6 channels And I have to say I have not seen the HD500 mentioned in awhile.. New found interest??
> 
> One sub on each channel, yes. And for the rest, ask yourself this (it is what answered it for me) Who is listening to music in the back seat? For me?
> my 1 year when she is with me, and the system is basically off, but the other 90% of the time, no one. So why take away from the front end? It is where you are, no?


Had the HD500 mids for about a year now. My story is scary close to Allen 74. Started out with no intentions of this type of system, got a good deal on a set of Hertz HSK 165's, lead to other great finds, changes in plans, extra speakers through found deals, etc. etc. I have sitting in a closet 2 sets of HSK 165's, 1 pair of HV 200 midbass, 1 pair HCX 690 6x9's, 1 pair HX 250D subs, the HD500 mids, and like Allen 74 just did, I'm thinking about switching to the Space 1 tweets instead of the HT 25.  

As far as the rear fill, I have a full size first generation Blazer they are going in and figured I have them, why not use them. If not, then I would just skip the rear fill and use the Arc KS 300.2 amp on the HV 200 midbass and hope it will work well enough (180 watts x 2) without having to purchase another Arc KS 300.4 to bridge to the midbass. Most have suggested the 350 x 2 route, but if the Arc 300.2 at 180 watts x 2 would be sufficient, then that is the route I would go, make it a little more simple and skip the rear fill all together. As far as rear passengers, that would be a rare occasion with the exception of my dog or transporting friends of my daughter from time to time.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

JWPOORE said:


> Had the HD500 mids for about a year now. My story is scary close to Allen 74. Started out with no intentions of this type of system, got a good deal on a set of Hertz HSK 165's, lead to other great finds, changes in plans, extra speakers through found deals, etc. etc. I have sitting in a closet 2 sets of HSK 165's, 1 pair of HV 200 midbass, 1 pair HCX 690 6x9's, 1 pair HX 250D subs, the HD500 mids, and like Allen 74 just did, I'm thinking about switching to the Space 1 tweets instead of the HT 25.


Looks like I'm not the only victim of indecisiveness and incrimental upgrades prior to install.

To tell you the truth, I didn't plan on ending up with all of the gear I have, especially all the AudioControl stuff. It seemed to be added 1 piece at a time and now looks a bit 'out to lunch' so to speak.

I may try to sell the DQS and maybe shell out for either an MS-8 or a BitOne...what a mess I have created by trying to do this piece by piece and changing my mind all the time.

*I guess this will make My 'spare' parts list *(that I have to try eventually SELL) *now looks like this*:


> - *Kicker zx700.5 5 channel amp*. (2 weeks old, from another installation)
> - *Kicker Solobaric L5 10"* DVC 4ohm. (2 weeks old, from another installation)
> - *BassWorx Custom L5 Sub Box*. (2 weeks old, from another installation)
> - *Kicker KQ30*, 30 band EQ. (Brand New in box)
> ...


*New 'TO BUY' list:*
- MS-8 or BitOne.
- Hertz HV200 8" or ML165 6.5" MidBass Drivers (1 pair).

I guess I am also lucky that my couch is so comfortable, as I believe that I may be sleeping there for a while once my wife figures out what's going on with all this stuff  .....and perhaps adding a few pairs of Ladies shoes to my 'TO BUY' list to smooth things over....lol

Thanks again guys,
Allan


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## Thunderplains (Sep 6, 2009)

Allan74 said:


> *New 'TO BUY' list:*
> - MS-8 or BitOne.
> - Hertz HV200 8" or ML165 6.5" MidBass Drivers (1 pair)


In IMHO, Go with the BitOne and the MLs.. You will very pleased with the 
outcome.. (if it helps, I auditioned over 35 different sets of speakers, always came back to the Hertz ML165.. One day I will only upgrade them to the ML1600..)

Good luck Man.. I had to do the same with my Wife, She now has a AVIC-Z120BT in her truck..


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

I am HAPPY to report that my Speaker buying has FINALLY come to an end.

What have I learned ? not a damn thing, other than _"The grass always seems greener on the other side - no matter what_".......*so what do you do in THAT situation ?* GET THE GREEN-EST GRASS YOU CAN _THE FIRST TIME_ AND NEVER LOOK BACK.

*My FINAL setup now looks like this:*
- Hertz ML28 Tweeters.
- Hertz HD500 Mids.
- *Hertz ML 1600 MidBass.*
- Hertz ML 3000 12" Subwoofer.

_That's finally it for speakers. Done, last nail in the coffin, nothing else, nadda...._

*Why am I done without replacing the Mids/Tweeters ?*
To me, ML 280 tweeters look like sh1t.....and from what I am told, ML 500R Mids sound like sh1t. Problem solved.

This is my FINAL Driver config.....DONE!

*I chose to go with the ML 1600's over the ML 165 for 2 reasons.*
1) ML 165's would always leave me wondering 'what if'....
2) There was only about a $50 USD difference where I purchased, so it was a no-brainer.
_(ML165/EUR 234,00 vs. ML1600/EUR 269,00 = EUR 35 = $50 USD Difference)_

Thanks to everyone who responded and put up with my cryin'......
Cheers,
Allan


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## rayheatfan (Feb 25, 2011)

ML 28 tweeter is really nice. I have the ML 280 and I LOVE it! Amazing


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