# my door build...



## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

I am definatly open to suggestions as to what i can add. Whats there is pretty much there already. The Sq knowledge on this forum is mind blowing!

I am putting a Hertz HV165L in this spot. Active, bandpass crossover as low as they can take. I will be running them off of my Zapco 300X

here is the build:


So my door was pretty hacked after multiply installs and i am going to do some metal work to it to make it solid again and i am adding some Second Skin inside the door. I will skind the door and seal off the opening after the install is done.










made some wood templates for the metal. its 1/8" steel










bending some bar stock around it to make a trough for some 3/4" MDF




























wood in place. i will probably put some nut zerts in the metal and bolt the wood to it.










metal base in and angled a little










the card board is a template to cut some metal out and weld in there. the door should be pretty solid once its all in.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

got the other metal base made today. 

i re-installed the window track that need to be modified. Ford put the lower front mount for it right where i needed to cut to fit the speaker in. damn them! So i modified it. some plasma cutting and welding and it's done. 

here is the stock bracket, where it use to before i drilled out the welds and added my own bracket. you can see mine in the back ground there.










just my bracket










some pics of the new bracket welded on


























got the nut-zerts in on the speaker bases


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

both bolted together with some bolt flush mounted. I love me some OSH


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

got the metal work all done and installed



















avoiding future rust.










picked up the speakers from local shop and got that area deadened. i need to get some more deadening before i am finished.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

got the driver all sealed up, (at much as it's going to be)

here is what i needed to fill in











I used ABS so the wood wouldn't rot. not that it sees rainy weather anyway but i wash it.





















double sided foam tape just incase it wanted to rattle



















































all sealed up










does this door build meet needs of some nice midbass? I am open to suggestions.

thanks for looking.


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## Mooble (Oct 21, 2007)

Wow, that's a LOT of work! If you were going to do that much work, I would have suggested sealed enclosures. I came to the realization that no matter what I did, I could never seal the door satisfactorily. The reason is the rubber weather stripping on the window. There is no way you can ever have a true sealed enclosure and still have a functional window. I finally got sick of mine flapping around on bass notes and decided to do real enclosures. Maybe you'll be luckier and not have that problem.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Your fab skills are amazing, thanks for sharing.


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## 86mr2 (Apr 29, 2005)

Baggedbirds, that is just inspirational man. Moving the window track mount, wow. I spent waay to many years welding together my rusty sports car and my rusty race car so I can really appreciate the work you are doing.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Damn man. Kudos to you. Fascinating work, it takes a lot of balls to start hacking up metal. Nice!


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

&

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showpost.php?p=538901&postcount=202


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

Mooble said:


> Wow, that's a LOT of work! If you were going to do that much work, I would have suggested sealed enclosures. I came to the realization that no matter what I did, I could never seal the door satisfactorily. The reason is the rubber weather stripping on the window. There is no way you can ever have a true sealed enclosure and still have a functional window. I finally got sick of mine flapping around on bass notes and decided to do real enclosures. Maybe you'll be luckier and not have that problem.


I have thought about that but I USE to have 5 1/4" MB Quart reference mounted to the flimzy door panel and had zero deadening in the door, so this should be a huge improvement.



> Baggedbirds, that is just inspirational man. Moving the window track mount, wow. I spent waay to many years welding together my rusty sports car and my rusty race car so I can really appreciate the work you are doing.


Well thanks but I didn't want to move the regulator mount but i needed to fit a speaker. Not my favorite part of the install 

t3sn4f2, I knew about the wood problem but i almost never drive the car and it only gets wet if i wash it while its not covered in the garage. I guess i could alwasy do an ABS mount. Cali is a nice place for weather in respect to water.



thanks all for the kind words. My installs are usually nicer than they sound. I problem i seem to have IMO. I am really trying to nail the sound on this one. Mooble was the only one who commented on if the install would yield good midbass results.
I saw an install in here were they lined the outer skin of the door with a dense foam. How does everyone fell about that?


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

ida put deadener on the outside skin and the outside of the inner skin, deaden anything i could get my fingers on.(sludge is way easy, not matt) im sure that door will provide excellent results, get 200 watts available for each driver and pray you dont get rattles. 

and waterproof that mdf.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

60ndown said:


> ida put deadener on the outside skin and the outside of the inner skin, deaden anything i could get my fingers on.(sludge is way easy, not matt) im sure that door will provide excellent results, get 200 watts available for each driver and pray you dont get rattles.
> 
> and waterproof that mdf.


i did put second skin on the outer skin while i had the huge hole in the door.
i have a rated 150 watts to put at them, they should move.

i might go get some ABS and laminate some up and cut some rings then. 
thats 2 for plastic rings


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

I hope you painted the inside of that metal piece you welded in to close up that hole. Water gets in there more than it does on the outside. 

Other than that, great job. I like your style! Wish I had your tools.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

This is the first DIYMA welder I've seen. Great work...but above and beyond what the average DIY'er will be able to do. I suppose there will be no going back to stock after this


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

I would do things like this if I had the resources and tools to do so. I barely have a garage to work in. It's got broken windows(freezing cold), I can't pull my entire car in because it's not big enough, and I've barely got any tools and what few I have are not air tools. 

But I guess some have it worse too so maybe I shouldn't complain but some day I will have a shop and tools...some day.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

kimokalihi said:


> I hope you painted the inside of that metal piece .



yep , with 3M weld thru primer. It can be welded againist and it leaves protection some how. Its made for joining seams. I have no idea how it works but it doesn't act like paint when its welded againist, i am trusting 3M on this one.


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## BMWturbo (Apr 11, 2008)

Impressive metal skills  

It looks to me as though you have a great opportunity to decouple to MDF ring from your enclosure here it might pay to have a look and try that?


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## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

Yes weld thru primer is the shiznits...I have used it many times when boxing older frame rails to withstand the torque put on by stroked motors....
its great stuff!


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

your so good at welding I would have skipped the MDF all togeather
you will get greater dynamics,
i like the job you do..


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

Tahnks everyone. Anyone in Fresno? Want to tune my stuff some day and i'll build you something 




> BMWturbo Re: my door build...
> Impressive metal skills
> 
> It looks to me as though you have a great opportunity to decouple to MDF ring from your enclosure here it might pay to have a look and try that?


i am looking into that now that I have fund this forum. I have read the clay Idea or , out here we have Orchard Supply Hardware, my favorite place and they sell a very dense rubber in small sheets, i thought about trying that.


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## Locke (May 29, 2007)

impressive


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## BLACKonBLACK98 (Apr 5, 2008)

truly a beatiful door. checked out bagged birds last night soit all makes sense. great fab skills.


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## faberick (Feb 28, 2009)

well done, that man!!


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Well done. That's helluva lot of work mayne


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## wheelieking71 (Dec 20, 2006)

hella nice! good to see someone working with metal. i am planning to not have a single peice of wood in my finished install.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Thats the longest f'ing door I've ever seen!

Nice work though man. Any new updates?


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> Nice work though man. Any new updates?


X2 Whats the deal *baggedbirds*
we want to see more!!


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## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

That is a nice looking door, but with all that effort, i would've done kicks


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

well, the doors looks the same as it did. The Hertz speakers are the HV 165L and they just can't take the 200 watts each I giving them playing as low as I want them to. I will likely be changing them out to some ML 165 woofers. 
I have been working on the amps in the trunk. I have them in now and had things playing a little. I will try to get a picture of the amps in and get that in the amp rack thread. I am now doing the DLS UR2.5 angled up in the corners of the dash and some tweets in the A-pillar (sort of). I may not post pics of that portion of the build. I am trying for a nice looking and sounding portion of the install. Sorry, looks are more important in this part. If I can make them sound good (to me) and make it look like I want then all the better.


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## jsun_g (Jun 12, 2008)

Nice work!
I'm tired of working with MDF and want to learn how to weld. I welded once...in high school shop class...more years ago than I care to remember. What do I need to get started? What does the equipment cost? Maybe I'd be better off going to a metal shop and telling them what I want done...


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

you can get into a small 120V welder from Home depot for about $400 and run flux core wire so it won't need gas. Although Gas and solid wire really are easier to work with and looks nicer. MY 220V miller was about $1200


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## lowpoke (Jun 1, 2008)

Love your attention to detail. I think I said so in your amp rack thread too.
MORE PICS!


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

old thread but I don't do anything quickly.










old speaker










new speaker - I was running a rated 200 Zapco Studio watts to each and the Hertz couldn't take it. Active bandpass 60hz - 480hz . I was really beating on them. These CDT's take the abuse nicely.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

rather than start a new thread for the pillars. I'll add it here.

FYI - I am about 50/50 looks and sound, maybe even 51 looks 49 sound so keep that in mind when you think "why mount them like that"  

So I picked up some new midrange speakers. I am going full active and I am putting my kick panels back to stock. I will be putting the Quart Tweet I had in the A pillar with my new DLS speakers. This might be a slow build because I a not going to mount them until I listen to them in some different positions and all the system has to function to do this.

$20 worth of junk yeard parts to build on.










New DLS Speakers




























Starting the mounting palte fpor the A pillars. Making a template for the outter shape


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

old tweets before my DLS


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

Picked up some DLS Iridium tweets and have changed the design up a little

away we go.....

I have got rings for the 2.5's alread in place , so its time for the new tweeter rings. Cool tweets. the grill screws on and the whole thing is metal










typical DLS basketball grill. Love it or hate, it screams DLS



















taped the tweeter ring down


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

threaded inserts - so i can take them in and out, like i always do




























glued on - i am going to give things a listen before I glass it all up


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Very nice work...precision. Those thousands in tools sure help. I kept wondering when you built the door why you would not go ahead and set up for dual speakers. You're already cutting and welding a huge portion of the door. But your plan for the dash area is better staging/imaging.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

this is a cover for the dash that i am adding some DLS mids in










a ring that i will clamp down to give me a nice edge so it easier to finish and it will have a conssistant shape










material tacked down with CA














































in the car


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

passenger side started


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

i have done all my listening from the driver seat and never the passenger seat until today. I want it to sound decent from both seats. The passenger side was junk ! I couldn't even hear the driver side from there. I had a friend of mine there so we listened to both side and then swapped until we agreed. 

I have to rebuild the a pillars. the tweets sound better facing each other. in our opinion. 

I have played with the mids and couldn't really hear any difference in the sound. this is the rebuild of the pillar





































the idea is to cover the seam and make it look like it belongs there - at least a little


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## soundevolutionaudio (Aug 21, 2009)

NICE NICE let me know how u like the DLS..


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

resin'd


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## wheelieking71 (Dec 20, 2006)

veddy nice!!


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

glassing the back side.


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## jimp (Jul 12, 2009)

very nice, lots and lots of skill on display there


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## wild_eye (Oct 15, 2007)

Nice work on the door and dash.


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## teenycar (Sep 24, 2009)

Looking good. Are you happy with how the doors came out for midbass?


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

teenycar said:


> Looking good. Are you happy with how the doors came out for midbass?



somewhat. I have heard some really pounding Hertz Mille and some ID IDQ8's. Mine are not up to those levels in output IMO. I know there are a ton of factors.

Am I happy with them? They will do.

I did make a small change and it made a difference. I was running a Zapco Studio 204 bridged down to 2 channels pushing 200w to each CDT. I had them crossed at HP at 65hz because they couldn't take it. Now I run that amp 4 channel, picked up another set of the CDT's and run 50w to each speaker. I now run the HP at 35hz and with little to no chnage in output, easier on the speaker and it sounds better. The LP filter is at 480 hz.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

I had to finish the dash cover to get the pillars done. I move slow now-a-days. I still may vinyl these, it depends how they look in the sun.


textured










in the car. The dash cover will be vinyled
the dark spots are a dirty windshield not on the pillar


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

more progress - It's slow going

I gapped it with 2 layers of double sided tape. The gap is a little large in the pics until I wrap them in vinyl.


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## ollschool (Nov 21, 2008)

This is the same idea i have had for years, with an install. I want to put one in the center also for a fuller stage. Very defined skills you have, excellent detail. And looks like plenty of time. I'm impressed. Very nice..


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## Killa Camry (Apr 8, 2009)

DA2MN GREAT JOB


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

more done


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## LegendJeff (Jun 28, 2009)

wow nice!


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## R1100S (Feb 12, 2008)

You should be commended for rebuilding your A-pillars for better sound after listening tests.

A lot of "pretty installs" are simply 'glassed into place based on what looks cool, and not on any sort of critical listening.

It also appears that you have the a-pillar/dash transition looking TIGHT! 

Have you considered using SEM texture coat on the dash/pillars instead of vinyl? You could tighten up your gaps and much as you want with texture coat, and it would never peel up due to heat and need re-upholstered.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

R1100S said:


> Have you considered using SEM texture coat on the dash/pillars instead of vinyl? You could tighten up your gaps and much as you want with texture coat, and it would never peel up due to heat and need re-upholstered.


yeah - I textured them first and painted them. they looked ok but that looked cheap to me and they sit against the windshild a little. it rubbed the paint off.


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## R1100S (Feb 12, 2008)

baggedbirds said:


> yeah - I textured them first and painted them. they looked ok but that looked cheap to me and they sit against the windshild a little. it rubbed the paint off.


I hear you. It's kind of like my Tacoma. The interior looks nice, but it's still all plastic. It doesn't matter that I've replaced my cloth upholstery with KatSkinz leather...it still feels a little bit less luxurious that my wife's BMW ///M Roadster. (and slower too...but that's an entirely different discussion....)

Vinyl will look better in your application, and it's rare that you have anticipated the gap that wrapping them will cause. You WILL have to do some re-upholstery over the life of the vehicle to keep the install looking fresh.

My wife and I re-wrapped the dash of her 2000 VW Turbo Beetle three times. 205,000 miles in 6 years. No system changes. Just an ocassional vinyl refreshing. 

If I had used SEM Texture coat from the beginning I could have avoided my nightmarish days with a heat-gun pointed at my dash.


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## Gilbert (Oct 21, 2009)

baggedbirds said:


> more done


That is a very nice. Excellent craftsmanship. Congratulations.


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## Robb (Dec 5, 2008)

awesome !


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## krouchchocolate (Jul 30, 2008)

wow. Looking good man. How hard is it to weld? Always wanted to try it.


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## hempy (Oct 3, 2007)

I love your Jasper Jig router table idea! Does the router simply slip into place like a router table plate? I really need to do that. Also saw the chip in the corner. Mine had a similar incident, and it's really surprising how well they will take a fall!


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

I work slow.
What a pain to wrap. I wrapped the pillars and re-gapped the joint and it was still tight after all the parts were vinyl.


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## bkjay (Jul 7, 2009)

Mad skillz!


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

looks sick... props to you sir


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## Mrnurse (Sep 8, 2011)

your Jasper jig is stationary, like a router lift or router table mount almost?


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## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

Sub'd


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## SQram (Aug 17, 2007)

win1 said:


> Sub'd


Not much point, 4 year old thread...


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

HOLY THREAD NECRO BATMAN!!!!


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

@Win1 Go to the top of this page, click "Thread Tools", select "Subcribe to this Thread". Please don't waste my time again with this stupid "sub'd" B.S.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

damn, time flys.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

baggedbirds said:


> damn, time flys.



Well now that you showed up, post some updates new pics etc...


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## rdlhifi (Sep 8, 2013)

quietfly said:


> Well now that you showed up, post some updates new pics etc...


I really liked this thread! Well done Job! I wonder if, 4 years later, baggedbirds is preparing another surprise...or maybe a Follow-up in the same Car?


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## upgrayedd (Apr 19, 2011)

nice work. I did similar in a deck IB setup I started. Never finished though


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