# BMW E39 540i - ID, JL, Dynaudio. First build.



## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

After a few months of planning and gathering equipment, I am finally ready to begin my install. My car is a 2000 540i with DSP. I will begin installing everything beginning on October 7-ish, depending on my job.

Here are my objectives:

-KISS all the way. (Because this is my first install, I am sticking to the basics.)
-Replace OEM tape deck with OEM CD player
-Defeat DSP (for you non bmw owners, it involves replacing the DSP amp to fix the signal that goes from the radio to the amp.)
-Add DICE radio interface (IPOD integration to OEM bmw radio)
-Upgrade front stage, ditch rear speakers
-Install 2 10" subs in IB in the rear deck
-Maintain factory appearance and make all modifications reversible

Here is the equipment I have chosen:
-Dynaudio MD100 tweeters
-Image Dynamics OEM 6.5" midrange/midbass
-Image Dynamics IDQ10 v2 d4
-JL 250/1 to power the subs
-JL 300/4 to power the front stage
-Knukonceptz wiring
-Dynamat extreme (1 bulk pack, 1 trunk pack)

The plan is to make some baffles to squeeze those massive 6.5's in the factory location. I understand that it might not be possible, but I am going to do my best to fit them in. The MD100s will go in the factory midrange location as they are too large to fit in the OEM tweeter locations. The IDQ 10s will be IB'd in the rear deck. I plan on cutting some holes in the rear deck that are larger than the 3" dsp holes. This will not be reversible, but I am willing to make that compromise. The JL amps will go in the factory amp / CD changer location. Some metal adapter plates will be built to use the OEM amp harness. I chose the JL slash series amps because they will accept the differential balanced signal directly from my receiver and they have good on-board crossovers.

So far, I have put a layer of DMX on my doors and door cards. I put 3 layers on the upper side of the rear deck, and 1 layer on the under side of the rear deck. I ran a 4 channel RCA cable from the radio to the trunk. I have the power wires (4 gauge) run from the battery to the amp location (with open fuse holders until the amps go in). I installed the DICE under the sliding door storage compartment and ran a cable to my euro storage armrest to hold the IPod. I have installed the CD53 as well.

I have not taken any pictures of my install progress so far, but I will take some once the car is taken apart again.


Some equipment pics:




























Thanks for reading - I would really like to hear some input from the veterans as I complete this install.


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## Mooble (Oct 21, 2007)

Wow! You must have a huge package shelf. Show us a picture of it. That's a lot to stuff in what is normally a pretty flimsy support. I would definitely glass the shelf for support or even add 1/2" MDF.


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## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

looks like a good start.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Here is a picture of what inspired me to do the 10s like I am. I plan on using 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for the baffle and applying sound deadening to the outside of it. *This is (obviously) not my car!*


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

PScalfano said:


> Here is a picture of what inspired me to do the 10s like I am. I plan on using 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for the baffle and applying sound deadening to the outside of it. *This is (obviously) not my car!*


 
Where did you find that pic!! That looks like what I wanted to do next to my M5 (E39). Do you know what size those are?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

PM sent, slvrtsunami.


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## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

slvrtsunami said:


> Where did you find that pic!! That looks like what I wanted to do next to my M5 (E39). Do you know what size those are?


That would be jo4ne33's car. Those are 12"s. I have more pics of his car in my photobucket..

OP: I like the product selections


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Yeah, I saw all the pictures...very impressive. I wonder if there is enough room to put one or two fifteens mounted like that? What do you guys think?

Is the opening for the ski pass through being used for something? or is it cosmetic..

OP: the ID will fit, but I know your gonna need a spacer and some how make SURE it is sealed off effectively..kind of tricky in those doors.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Oh, forgot, youm9ight want to read BennyZ and Blacksapphire's build logs as well. I think they both addressed the tweeter mounting. I am using horns so it does not really apply to me


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I made a lot of progress today. Tuesday was my first day off, but it was raining. I spent the day shopping and generally being irritated at the rain. I did this (in my kitchen!)










Today was a beautiful day, so I got started early and worked most of the day. Everything pictured is for the driver's side. The passenger's side I will do tomorrow.

I cut holes in the rear deck for the 10s to fire through:










I fabricated the IB baffle (it's not fastened together yet)










I also modified the factory midrange speakers to accept my tweeters










And mounted them in the door panels. I let the factory mount aim the tweeter for me.










I also fabricated the baffles for the midbass drivers. It took two iterations to get it right.

First try:




























See how the bracket is off... I had to cut a bracket out of 16ga steel because I had some and did not feel like going out.










I'm going to seal the baffle to the door card with dynamat tomorrow. I have already put a layer under the vapor barrier but forgot to take a picture of it.

That's it for now. Tomorrow I am going to mount the amps and finish the passenger's side.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

cool, the build is coming along nicely!! You might want to double check the bottom of the spacer and make sure it does not hit the door pocket. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Also, I am assuming you will be using T/A for the front stage? I dont recall reading that.


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## IrishChamp (Oct 9, 2008)

wow, nice intall.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

slvrtsunami, I am worried about the clearance. That's as high up as I could push those IDs. I may have to trim the support pieces in the door frame so that I can push them up a little further. The basket is SO WIDE on those things!

It's first on my list of things to do tomorrow.

I don't have any plans for time alignment. I'm just using the active crossovers on the JL amps and no other processing. Perhaps once my bank account has recovered from the first go round, I will consider it.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

The only reason why I ask that about the T/A is that there has been issues with localization and lack of stage depth with the tweeters mounted there. If you want to see how my panels turned out, go to www.mariosbythesea.com/bmw.htm (mods, I hope that's OK). There are also a lot of door install pics in E39's. From the pics, it looks like yours should fit. Just isolate them as best as you can. Good luck.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Well I did end up having to trim the doors a little bit so that the IDs would fit. I took a few pictures of the passenger door as I was trimming.





































I also mocked up the amp racks.

Factory amp:










Replaced with 300/4










added 250/1 in a modified CD changer bracket. The trim panel won't close but I'll deal with that later.










I also carpeted the baffle and got it ready to install. Tomorrow I am going to do wiring and hopefully power up.


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

I like it, 
very cool install
im going to keep my eye on this one..
top notch 1st build!
take your time keep keep that eye on the details..
your on track


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Yesterday I finished the sub baffle and got it installed. Here are some pics:



















I also buttoned up the doors and fired up the amps. Now on to setting the gains etc.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Is that expandable foam I see between the baffle and rear deck? It is unfortunate my Zed amps are huge compared to your JL's. Tell me, do you think a pair of fifteen's would fit under the rear deck?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I used some 2" foam from the fabric store - the most dense they have. I fired it up and took a drive, and I am very impressed at the output of those 10s. They do exactly what I want them to do. I still have tuning to do, but I'm very glad to have a fully functioning install. 

Fitting some 15s in the rear deck would be a challenge... you would need to cut a lot of metal.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

cool, glad its working for you. as far as 15's go....nothing a hole saw won't fix. Nah, I think I will just do it against the rear seat and fire it through the ski hole.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

slvrtsunami said:


> cool, glad its working for you. as far as 15's go....nothing a hole saw won't fix. Nah, I think I will just do it against the rear seat and fire it through the ski hole.


Just be sure you use protection. Especially with an M5... they are known to get dirty with their previous owners.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> cool, glad its working for you. as far as 15's go....nothing a hole saw won't fix. Nah, I think I will just do it against the rear seat and fire it through the ski hole.


you know, after reading it again, that could be easily misunderstood. Oh well....


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## nitroboomracer (Oct 5, 2008)

great


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I'm really liking how the IB 10s sound. I noticed that the parcel shelf (not the metal part I deadened, but the trim) is vibrating, especially on the low notes. I will have to put some sound deadening on that. I figure while I have the parcel shelf out, I will remove the rear speakers to give the bass somewhere else to go. I also made some RCA cables out of the cheap radio shack ends, and they are very crappy and loose. I ordered some Neutrik ends to replace the radio shack ones - they should be in tomorrow.

Here are a couple pics of the amps wired up. I still have to devise a cover for the amps and maybe some air circulation.



















And another pic of the IB subs...










I'm still playing with the crossover points, and surely I will be for a long time. The 300/4 is pretty tough to access to tweak gains, but I think the trunk space makes it well worth it.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Looking good!!I don't remember if the rear speaker pods opened into the trunki area. Don't forget that for IB to work best, the front and the rear waves must be completely isolated as much as possible. just a thought. How are the tweeters imaging?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

The rear speakers are located above the metal of the parcel shelf and below the trim piece. They are sealed to the trim piece with foam. By removing the rear pods, it will allow bass to exit via the rear speaker grills. 

I think the tweeters are imaging well. I prefer a "front row" sound stage and I am definitely satisfied with the dyns.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

double post


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

ok, I understand now. You might want to put some of that foam under the rear deck as well, so if it does vibrate, it's against a 'soft' surface. That is what Iam going to reinforce.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

That is a good idea. When I disassemble everything, I will snap a few pics of what I do and report on how it works.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

cool, that would be helpful. I am debating between two fifteens or two twelves for my rebuild of the trunk. My installer buddy (hw actually does most of the work, I help) looked and asked if he could redo it all. I said, sure! since you owe me anyway!! Will let you know what happens.


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## jo4ne33 (Jun 10, 2007)

Hey Phil, 

nice install, love how you mount your amps, simple and clean.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

jo4ne33, thank you for the compliment. Your E39 is incredible - it is nice to have your input.

I took apart the rear deck to get a handle on the rattling. The rear deck of an E39 is about 10 bitches to get out. You have to remove the C Pillars, the rear seat and backrest, and remove lots of bolts and plastic expanding rivets. I have a few words for plastic expanding rivets that I will not share.

I thought this pic was amusing. My neighbors and passers by give some funny looks when they see this.










Here she is with no rear seat and a pillow for me.










Here is what you get once the rear deck is removed. I took the 2 speakers out to give another outlet for bass.










Oh, hi!










My original plan was to dynamat the rear deck. It turns out there is already foam glued to the bottom of it, and being impatient I just decided to get some foam under there and tighten it down as best I can. 










Among the millions of screws that are involved in removing the rear deck, there are 3 bolts that hold it down from the top. They are used to install a car seat (I think...). There is a large spacer washer that goes in.










I removed the spacer washer. That allowed me to tighten the rear deck down really nicely. I will obviously keep them in case I need to have a car seat later, god forbid... 

Here is an awful picture of my interior. I will probably replace it later. The lighting in the carport was really bad.










That is all for now! I immediately noticed a great improvement in the vibration of the rear deck.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Cool, thanks for the pics!! I will be down that road pretty soon. Today I noticed a loose panel in the back of the car as well. Just have not had any time to investigate. Thanks for the pics, they are helpful to me, even though my car has the split fold down seats. I still cannot understand WHY they did that... Oh well.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

man. I wish I had fold down seats. I had to buy the roof rack bars to carry long things. Want to trade cars?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Something interesting to mention that I had previously forgotten. While I had the seat and rear deck trim out, I turned up the bass and looked for leaks. The only ones I found were the holes that the head rest mounts go into. I also noticed that when I close the trunks, the subs flex because of the pressure change. I think I have my trunk sealed well... dynamat and aluminum flashing ftw.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Sorry, will not trade my dream car. Your baffle work is giving me hope that my new setup will work fine and it should have been the first one, if only I was patient enough. Live and learn.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I took a drive yesterday. I don't drive much as I live 5 blocks from my office and cycle to work. The rear deck still needs some work. I will need to dynamat that thing.

Those 10s hit a lot harder than I expected them to! IDQ ftw!!


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I took a drive yesterday. I don't drive much as I live 5 blocks from my office and cycle to work. The rear deck still needs some work. I will need to dynamat that thing.

Those 10s hit a lot harder than I expected them to! IDQ ftw!!


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## BlackSapphire (Apr 16, 2008)

Wow.... I don't know how I missed another E39 thread! Yea! If you guys need any help or suggestions, I've built several complete systems in my E39 and am working on my 3rd or 4th at the moment. I'm not an expert but I may have some information that could come in handy in a pinch. Keep the pics coming! I'm working on sound deadening the rear of mine tomorrow as well. Second skin to the rescue!


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

BlackSapphire said:


> Wow.... I don't know how I missed another E39 thread! Yea! If you guys need any help or suggestions, I've built several complete systems in my E39 and am working on my 3rd or 4th at the moment. I'm not an expert but I may have some information that could come in handy in a pinch. Keep the pics coming! I'm working on sound deadening the rear of mine tomorrow as well. Second skin to the rescue!


I guess that's one way to get an update on your install Saph!!

PS, When your remounted your rear deck, what exactly did you do to the child seat anchors?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Wow, I just realized that my last post is (another) double post. I have never really had that problem before... I guess that's one way to get my post count up.

Thanks for the compliments, BlackSapphire. I will keep posting pictures as I make more progress. I got a lot of ideas from your thread (not to mention the ID OEMs I purchased from you). Thanks again!

slvrtsunami, in the below pic you will see a bolt that holds (in order from the head of the bolt to the threads) a tiny washer, the childseat holder thing, and then a large spacer washer (which looks fuzzy).










I removed the spacer washers from all 3 bolts and screwed the bolts back down to the rear deck. It caused the bolts to tighten down the rear deck quite a bit.

After I did that, I was still getting some rattling. The new rattling was on the higher frequencies which I found odd. I put the spacer washers back in and it went away, but my original rattle came back. I found out it was coming from the plastic trim pieces that go over the bolt heads. I used silicone to fix that. The foam seen in my last update is doing nicely to keep the rearmost part of the deck from vibrating - that is the original problem area. The bolts hold down an area that is in front of that so it didn't really make a difference when I tightened that part of the deck down.

I am now going to investigate the phase of my tweeters. I think I have got something backwards. I am not very good at describing sound, but it sounds as if the music is coming from the center of the dashboard. This is making me think I have made a wiring error.

Does anyone know of a way that I can check my phase? Am I dependent on a car audio shop to check this, or should I just start swapping phases and see if I notice a difference?

let's see if I double post this time...


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

when you say "center of the dash" are yo basically saying that you don't have stereo seperation? Is your stage 'width' very narrow? Gotta be a bit more descriptive even though it is hard to explain and paint a proper picture.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

It makes me want to move my head to the center of the car, almost as if more sound is coming more from the passenger's side than the driver's side. There is indeed sound coming from the driver's side, though. There is definitely stereo separation, though.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

so basicall it sound like the left side is louder than the right so its 'pulling' your image too far to the left. If that is the case, most likely it is the tweeter mounted in the door...Its simply too close. You could move the radio balance to the right to see if that helps solve the problem, but that would mean the passenger side will suffer (who cares for the passenger side!) play around, switching phase might help the problem, but it also may make it worse.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

what are your crossover points from the mids to the tweeters?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

2.5 khz with a 24db slope if I recall correctly.

I'll play around with the phase and balance after work I think. Thanks for the advice!


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## BlackSapphire (Apr 16, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> I guess that's one way to get an update on your install Saph!!
> 
> PS, When your remounted your rear deck, what exactly did you do to the child seat anchors?


I reinstalled them bud.... the rear deck looks stock from above.


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## GSA1 (Aug 30, 2008)

Those Amps look sweet. Did you cut the original harnesses out and use RCAs? 

Anything not working now, like the radio antenna amp, steering buttons, fader, etc?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Thanks for the compliment! I believe I have found an OEM amp cover that will fit over the 2 amps. I will give an update when I receive the part. I plan on integrating some sort of fan into the cover also.

I did cut the original harness. Since I had DSP, I only get front left and front right signals (which is fine with me). I have not had any issues with the radio. Steering wheel controls, balance, etc, are all fully functional. I used an OEM adapter to connect the (newer style) CD player to the (older style) antenna in my car.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Double post.


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## JPShinn (Nov 12, 2008)

Sweet build, my friend. I am considering something very similar with my 2003 M5 (with DSP). Quick question: I've read Douglas Baker's blog post in m5board.com about how to do the "remove DSP" thing and I am just about ready to take the plunge:

1. Remove DSP amp and add Genesis Profile 2 and Profile Sub Ultra amps;
2. Kill rear speakers and keep upgrade front speakers (most likely Morel Elates); and
3. Add a simple sub for bass reinforcement.

It strikes me as "relatively" straightforward but, in talking through the install with various pro installers, to a man, they insist that a JL Audio clean sweep or some similar summation device is required for what I plan to do. I call bullsh** but I'd be curious to know if you gave any thought to this.

Thx.
John


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## JPShinn (Nov 12, 2008)

Duplicate post, sorry.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

JPShinn said:


> Sweet build, my friend. I am considering something very similar with my 2003 M5 (with DSP). Quick question: I've read Douglas Baker's blog post in m5board.com about how to do the "remove DSP" thing and I am just about ready to take the plunge:
> 
> 1. Remove DSP amp and add Genesis Profile 2 and Profile Sub Ultra amps;
> 2. Kill rear speakers and keep upgrade front speakers (most likely Morel Elates); and
> ...


Thanks for the compliment! I also read that blog. It was a great source of information. I also used www.bmwtips.com as a resource. This site has tons and tons of info on DSP systems.

I did not use a cleansweep or any device to convert the signal for me. As long as you use amps that can accept the differential balanced signal that comes from the OEM radio, you do not need any such device. That was the main reason I used the amps I did. 

I am not sure if your Genesis amps will accept the signal or not. Their customer service department may be able to answer that question. 

Good luck with the install on your beast! Feel free to PM me with any questions.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

How are you liking those ID mids? One note...cross them as low as you can without straining the tweets too bad and use STEEP slopes. I ended up with mine crossed at 1600 24db slope. My tweets can dig down just below 2khz crossed steep before they start to get honory. One thing you could do but would take a leap of faith and money is get a zapco dc ref 4-channel for the mids and tweets. That way you can have maximum tweakability. Install looks good though and would love to take a listen. One thing you could do is get a linedriver like the pg tld66 off fleabay for like $60 shipped and you'd have independent gain controls. Just a thought


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I would consider some sort of line driver, but I am constrained by the balanced differential signal sent by my OEM radio. 

I am still breaking in the OEMs and have not got my doors totally finished yet, but I like what I am hearing so far. I have not heard many car audio systems, so my only references for staging etc. are my home system (infinity primus 360s, onkyo txsr604) and my headphones. I could definitely use some help with tuning and whatnot. I am not sure how low the dynaudios will go...


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## JPShinn (Nov 12, 2008)

Did you, by the way, re run new/higher quality speaker wire in the new setup or did you rely on the factory wiring? I suspect the factory wiring is crap but it looks like a pain in the a## to redo it.

Thoughts?

Thx.
John


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Actually, the factory wiring isn't THAT bad. It's twisted pair 16 gauge (or close to it). Running wires into the doors does look like a PIA, but it's up to you and just how much work you want to put into it. In my M5, the doors have new wiring. My observation.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

I used the factory wiring. I am not running enough power to warrant upgrading the wire. I agree with slvrtsunami and will even say the wiring in these cars is good!


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Tiny update.

My original amp cover did not fit after I swapped to the JL amps. I noticed that some e39s have an amp cover that protrudes out farther, so I figured I'd pick up a used one and see if I could make it work for me. I got the piece in today and it ALMOST fit. There are some vents on the piece that I had to trim down a little bit, but here's the end result!

Now you see them...










Now you don't!










Small amount of butchering involved










Next update will probably be adding a fan to the bottom area where I have some room.


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

Oh yes, the changer cover! Your car did not have a changer originally, did it?


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

My car was equipped with a 6 disc changer, but the cover is different. Instead of trying to explain, here is a picture I just took of my old one. Note how it is recessed about 3 inches compared to the one pictured in my car. I think it has something to do with the video module.


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## kcdonahue (Sep 27, 2008)

Thanks for the pics and clarification! I have the same one as your original and that little bit of extra space will be a huge help in my e39.

KC


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

oh, yeah, the new cover is actually for cars with NAV units, since the DVD player sits on top of amps and other electronics htat go along with it, like the DSP module. I think.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

slvrtsunami said:


> oh, yeah, the new cover is actually for cars with NAV units, since the DVD player sits on top of amps and other electronics htat go along with it, like the DSP module. I think.


Works for me. All I know is it will cover my amps and house a fan in the future. The next question is: should I install the fan as an intake or an exhaust? I am going to use a 120mm scythe case fan I have lying around.

kcdonahue I am glad I could help!


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

I would be tempted to use it as an exhaust....anything to get the air moving really. I think it can 'draw' some air from behind the panels, if the fan cfm is high enough. be careful about injecting 'noise' into the system with it.


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## PScalfano (Dec 7, 2007)

Welp I nailed down my tweeter problem. I had a loose connection so sometimes the tweeter was not even playing. No wonder it sounded messed up. All is well now.

I just cleaned up my car a bit and figured since I haven't yet, I'd share a few pictures of it.





































Here's where I keep my ipod.










And when closed...










(Can you believe that cup holder in front of the console costs $90 new? sheesh!)


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## BlackSapphire (Apr 16, 2008)

PScalfano said:


> (Can you believe that cup holder in front of the console costs $90 new? sheesh!)


Yes.


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