# Plan on a new build with Horn.



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

After read how awesome on dynamic of HLCD, I decide to go for it.

This is my plan equipment (except Midbass not bought yet)
Tweeter: Eric Mini Horn 2KHz+
Mid: PHL1120 6.5" (Audax PR170M0 cousin) 300Hz-2KHz in door locations.
Midbass: 12" 12P1000Nd 96dB 900Watts (only 1 under driver seat, 0.5Cuft custom fibergass.) 70-300Hz




__





Beyma 12P1000ND Speakers - Beyma 12P1000ND speaker - Beyma 12P1000ND 1,800 watt 12" woofer for all bass applications. Beyma 12P1000ND neodymium speaker and other Beyma neodymium lightweight speakers here.


Beyma 12P1000ND professional 12 inch light neodymium bass speaker for speaker replacement or upgrade. The Beyma 12P1000ND 12 inch speaker features a lightweight neodymium magnet. The Beyma 12P1000ND delivers warm defined bass with 1,800 watts program power handling. Beyma speakers here.



usspeaker.com




Sub: 1 Dynaudio 12" E1200 in IB (or 2 if needed)
Helix DSP3
Zapco Z-150.6 AP, Zapco DC1000.1

I might be able to put another 12P100Nd Midbass under passenger seat or his foot floor but I try to avoid more work.
Would 1 Midbass have enough output? Effect much if I could localize it with 70-300 Hz range?
Do I need 2 Subwoofers ?
Any system suggestion or comment please?


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

A single midbass will be localizable.

The issue you’re going to have with a single sub, especially IB is that it won’t be able to keep up with your high-sensitivity horns. I’d recommend a pair of AE SBP15s, which are about the best IB subs on the market. You probably only need about 250-300 watts for each sub (500-600 total).

I have home theater speakers with horn-loaded compressions drivers (JTR 212 HTRs) and I love their detail and effortless output. I tell people that most speakers get unhappy when you turn them up too loud but with my speakers you’ll be unhappy before they will. I don’t think I’ll ever buy a home speaker that isn’t a compression driver since I can have my cake and eat it too in terms of output and exquisite quality.


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

Or Option 2
High: Eric Mini Horn 1.5KHz+
Midbass: 18Sound 6ND430 6.5" 120Hz-1.5KHz @Door locations
Sub: Illusion Audio C10XL @Under driver seat, Sealed Volume 0.5 Cuft. Frequency___?
+ another 1 (or 2) Dynaudio E1200 IB in trunk 20-65Hz 

(or may be thin 10" subs under both seats? Passenger seat has 4.5-5" depth clearance while driver's has 6.5".)


----------



## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

i myself like the way option 2 sounds. with the hlcd you won't need a mid, all you really need is a GREAT midbass and some good subs.


----------



## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

Curious on why in option 2 you would still want the 10" sub under the seat? Seems like it's unnecessary added cost and work. Why not just go:

Mini horns
6ND430
Pair of subs IB in trunk


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

I had 6ND430 in the door previous built. I think they are light weight in 70-100Hz region. If I cut the sub at 100Hz, it pulls the bass to rear.





Blu said:


> Curious on why in option 2 you would still want the 10" sub under the seat? Seems like it's unnecessary added cost and work. Why not just go:
> 
> Mini horns
> 6ND430
> Pair of subs IB in trunk


----------



## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

What type of vehicle is this?


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

aroonkl said:


> I had 6ND430 in the door previous built. I think they are light weight in 70-100Hz region. If I cut the sub at 100Hz, it pulls the bass to rear.


With a proper tune of your DSP, that shouldn’t happen. You should be good to about 150 Hz with time alignment though I’m not suggesting you play your subs that high.









Use your subwoofer to get better midbass


In this video I discuss why I recommend using your subwoofer to improve midbass response. Get your pitchforks ready!... I’m suggesting to run your sub higher than 30hz! :D This isn’t truly a shocking revelation. Plenty of people already do what I suggest. It just goes against intuition and...




www.diymobileaudio.com


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

Eric Stevens said:


> What type of vehicle is this?


Nissan GTR.


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

I would love 2 of 15" but 15" won't fit.


dgage said:


> The issue you’re going to have with a single sub, especially IB is that it won’t be able to keep up with your high-sensitivity horns. I’d recommend a pair of AE SBP15s, which are about the best IB subs on the market. You probably only need about 250-300 watts for each sub (500-600 total).


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

I want chest pounding midbass. Is it possible with 6ND430s?


dgage said:


> With a proper tune of your DSP, that shouldn’t happen. You should be good to about 150 Hz with time alignment though I’m not suggesting you play your subs that high.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

The key to good impact from the system is the subwoofer and integrating it with the midbass. A 6.5 will give you good impact but an 8" will always be better. So to sum up a good subwoofer that will play well to above the required crossover in the propoer enclosure tuned correctly to blend with the midbass will yield the results you are after


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

Hi Eric,
With 6ND430, do you suggest just only 1 or 2 subwoofers IB or I would benefit with extra sub (or midbass) under driver seat?


Eric Stevens said:


> The key to good impact from the system is the subwoofer and integrating it with the midbass. A 6.5 will give you good impact but an 8" will always be better. So to sum up a good subwoofer that will play well to above the required crossover in the propoer enclosure tuned correctly to blend with the midbass will yield the results you are after


----------



## Eric Stevens (Dec 29, 2007)

aroonkl said:


> Hi Eric,
> With 6ND430, do you suggest just only 1 or 2 subwoofers IB or I would benefit with extra sub (or midbass) under driver seat?


Its more about the subwoofer system and being able to play well up to a 80 or 90 Hz so it can properly blend with the 6ND430. With IB subwoofers the more cone area you can fit in the car the better they work due to transfer function. So go as big as you can possibly fit and look for lower Qts (less than .35) with an Fs ~ 30 hz , the Dynaudio is a great hifi style driver but doesnt have the excursion needed to work for what you are doing with a single, you would want at least 2 and preferably 3 for good results. Subwoofers under the seat arent going to work as well as having them at the rear of the car, its like having a subwoofer in the middle of your living room, it sounds better and is much louder when you move it to the corner of the room


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Larger drivers have more impact so a 10” midbass will be better than an 8” or 6”. The problem with a car is the midbass has less to do with the speakers and more about the room. Due to the width of a car, the midbass speakers will usually have a null near 70-100 Hz and there isn’t really anything you can do because that is the midbass waves interacting with the room/car. So while an 8” may give you a little more impact and midbass, the reality is, due to the constraints of a car, you’ll likely need to rely on your subs for more midbass and hey, many subs can provide really nice midbass with that thump in your chest. 

If you like the 6ND430, I’d recommend going with the horns and maybe some AE SBP12s IB. Out of those, if anything is going to be a weak link, it is the 6ND430 so you could always change them later if you wanted. But my guess is that once you get the SYSTEM together, they will all work together and sound great.


----------



## aroonkl (May 21, 2017)

Thank you.Working on it.


----------

