# 2008 Mini Cooper (R56)



## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

I'm putting a little system in my brother's Mini. It's not an S, but it's still really fun to drive and quick enough. It's his first car and I talked him into his first stereo.  I wanted to keep it at $1500ish. He likes music, doesn't care about the gear but wants it to sound good. Once, he bought a set of bose earbuds and returned them the next day and then dropped $250 on a set of shures because the boses sounded awful. I told him he was nuts for spending that much on a set of earbuds.

The car has the standard 6 speaker stereo with a 4" cutout for the factory mid and a 6" speaker in the door. The rear quarters have 6x9" cutouts, all amplified off the factory head. This is going to be simple install with everything stealth and out of the way. Later on, when money permits and after getting bluetooth to the built in steering wheel controls along with a solution to his rats nest of wire from the ipod (12V, aux in), i might be able to talk him into another amp and a processor. 

What's going in:

Dynaudio Esotec system 222s components
Genesis Profile P69 6x9" subs -8 ohm versions
Arc Audio KS125.4 Mini running 75x2 & [email protected] 4 ohm
Hushmat Ultra Compact kit ~20 sq.ft


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

From poking around northamericanmotoring.com, it turns out Mini did something pretty weird with the oem head. the front speakers play full range while the rears are highpassed @ 100Hz, IIRC. What a lot of Mini owners have been doing is switching the front and rear speaker leads for more lower end. The only thing though is the the gong/warning chimes will then play through the rear speakers. I'm just going to tag the front speaker output into the arc and not use the rears. The Arc mini also has an auto-sense input which is great for oem integration. I want to touch as few wires as possible and the car already had the sunroof assembly replaced under warranty because it didn't open or close when it was too hot out, not to mention a warning light for a dead light bulb popped up once and there was none to be found. The oem stereo also has a speed sensitive volume control and even though it's just a built in head with built in power, I want to figure out what exactly is going on. I spent some time on oeinterface.com reading up on proper factory system integration. I have a ECM8000 mic and M-audio preusb I picked up a while ago and probably going to use TrueRTA to find out for myself exactly what the 3x3 Matrix for the car is and as well as use help for final tuning. This system doesn't have any eq or real processing, but between the crossover points, attenuation selection on the passives, phase, playing with the bass eq and the factory bass control on the head (probably-3 to flat for a pseudo/ghetto "sub" level control), there is plenty to play with. 










The tweeter is a going to be a bit closer to the driver and listener than the mid is, but what can you do. Ideally, I'd like them on the same vertical plane. The A pillar would probably give more stage depth and height, but there is a lot of glass up there and I wouldn't feel comfortable putting the tweeter so far away from the woofer in a passive setup with no eq. In a two way component system, they always suggest to place the tweeter relatively close to the woofer so it's cool. The Dynaudio passives have -2dB of attenuation and I already think will be used.










Rear side panels










The trunk. I so wanted to raise the floor and put a shallow subwoofer in there. It seemed like a no brainer because it would take up so little space and the trunk would be flush with the back seats when folded down. But the hatch cover wouldn't be able to close because my brother's stupid tennis bag is too big.

So this what I've been thinking since equipment and funds started slowly collecting seven months ago. I've had a lot of time to think and overthink things. 

I'm doing it in two stages: the 6x9s and amps (back end of the car) are going in first, then the components. If anyone has any feedback, input, or constructive criticism, please feel free.


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

Hello,

Looks like you have done a bit of research for the system. I have an R50, and looked at several of the components you are considering. I am not in the audio biz, though I am an SQ freak, and did a lot of research on my gear before I pulled the trigger. Funny, I did same with my earbuds, almost exactly!

The Genesis P69's are great woofers, though from my understanding, to get the best out of them, you will need a proper enclosure for them in those rear quarter panels. Getting to those areas can be a bit of work, as you need to get the rear seat out to access. I did an RE shallow 10 inch in the boot, and am quite pleased, though I was willing to the small trade off of space. You might consider the Ultra 6.5 or 8 inch in a side enclosure in the boot, as both of these subs sound awesome, especially in the MINI environment. What amp did you plan on powering the woofers with also?

If your going to do the Dyn's, you might want to feed them a bit more power than that Arc mini at 70x2. You can give them quite a bit of room, so feed those Dyn's some good power. 

I hope you have fun with the install, and I know your bro will like it over the factory system no matter what.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

D'oh, it's the four channel mini. The .4 was important. It must have looked like I was planning on building a passive. No way, that's so 1989.  The front channels are going to the components, rear is going to be bridged to the P69s.

With his Bose experience and him buying the Shures, it was easy to get him convinced on the Dyns after learning they use very similar speakers in studios, he was sold.

I'm not allowed to make any permanent modifications to the car, not am a fan of it, so the P69s being optimized for infinite baffle/free air is was the only choice, not to mention I read a UK review on them tested in a Mini and they performed great for what they are. The owners manual states the pair have the output of a 10".... vague, but still plenty in a car so small. Trust me, I tried so hard to get a real sub in there, but no go...

I think the Dyns will be fine with the 75x2. Any more power, I don't think he'll use it or appreciate it not to mention the cost factor. Double the power is only 3dB anyway; to me for power there is a point of diminishing return

I started taking the car apart and I found the perfect spot for the amp. I just need to move the harness around a little bit after splitting some wire bundles up. The side trim panel has a carpeted door thing that would allow access to the control on the amp and there is plenty of air circulation. Sweet.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

simplyclean said:


> I think the Dyns will be fine with the 75x2. Any more power, I don't think he'll use it or appreciate it not to mention the cost factor. Double the power is only 3dB anyway; to me for power there is a point of diminishing return


The Dyns will play with 75X2 but they wont be happy. For example, I have a friend running the Dyn 242s with the 6.5" mid. Running passive off of 150x2 from a JL 300/4, the tweeters keep going into protect at loud volumes and cutting out. After speaking with Dynaudio on the matter, They told me that 150x2 wasnt enough power. They recommended running actively with a lot more power. So i'd suggest that in the future you add another amp to adequately power those dyns.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks for the info. I hear where you are getting at, but he's not going to listen to it at loud levels anyway. But that's interesting about your buddy's experience with the 150x2 off the JL through the passives. Judging by the 3" voicecoils, I'm betting the supplied passive is the weak link anyway since use the same one for all the all three of their two way component sets and it's designed around the tweeter. Since it's the 222 with the smaller mw152 woofer that can't play as low as the 162s, they would be crossed over a little higher. I remember hearing somewhere that for each octave lower you play you need twice the power to play that at the same volume. Down the road, I'd like to get another amp in there and dedicate the mini to the front stage.

I was thinking about SPX-17PROs, but these 222s were really short money.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Tonyguy said:


> The Dyns will play with 75X2 but they wont be happy. For example, I have a friend running the Dyn 242s with the 6.5" mid. Running passive off of 150x2 from a JL 300/4, the tweeters keep going into protect at loud volumes and cutting out. After speaking with Dynaudio on the matter, They told me that 150x2 wasnt enough power. They recommended running actively with a lot more power. So i'd suggest that in the future you add another amp to adequately power those dyns.


Yeah I have 300watts on my 342 setup and they still want more. Was thinking about uping it but I'm switching over to some HAT's


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

If it can play relatively clean playing ~118-120dB on his music, it will be alright. If the tweeters are shutting off, it could be because they either getting overdriven or something is clipping making the polyswitch that protects the tweeter from kicking in. Some people just bypass it by twisting. I'd just turn it down because it's probably too loud. 










I got the back of the car apart. Once the tailight and trunk release harnesses get separated from the big bundle, the amp will be able to fit snug in the corner and flat up against the wheel well. If i left the harness as is, the amp there would be too much strain on the wires. 










Inside the 6x9" opening, between the outside quarter and the inside metal and wheel well of the car, there was this molded foam thing that was removable, shaped like a seat bolster. I think it's to keep down on the wheelwell noise and make the outside quarter more solid. This is where I want to ground. There will be some Hushmat there tommorrow.

Audiophilic, I forgot to mention I want to keep the fabrication to a minimum, so it leaves only a plate for the tweeter and a woofer up front.


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

Looks good! Any more updates?


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

I started putting some hushmat on the rear quarter area, on the inside of the the outer skin as well as the inside where the speaker mounts to. I got more than 25% coverage behind there, but still have half of the box to use for the front doors. I'm looking into some rattlepad or some foam sheets to go between the panels to reduce or eliminate panel rattles, but that will be it for sound treatments in order to keep it simple and not add to much weight to the car. I might add some overkill on the side or it or something like that.



















oem speaker ftl.










I wanted to run the new wire though this factory grommet. I used stinger 16g speaker wire. I only have 50 ft and still need to figure out where to mount the passives that are pretty big. I had to cut the rubber t to fit the thicker wire and it didn't want to fit back in the hole, so it put some hushmat over it to prevent any leaks.










Blurry, but just a set of crimp spade connectors on the end of the 16g, nothing special, but it works and it's really on there.

I started looking at the amp mounting again. It just fit in the back corner and clears these threads that are painted over and come in from the wheelwell. Anyway, the wires get in the way of the amp and just look messy. I wired up the 4 gauge that came in a kit (it was a generic "type-X" brand) and put the wire in plastic loom and heatshrink over it the end of it.










It first looked like this until I decided to move the factory harness over the amp.










After taking off some of the factory tape and reusing it when I can and hockey tape when needed to run the power wire along the factory loom, I got the wires around the amp, where there wouldn't be any stress or rubbing.










I had to use the plastic spacer that that came with the P69s, otherwise didn't fit. They were fit very snug and were tricky to get on at first.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

I got the speaker in and used this stuff used to stop window drafts I made my brother get from Home Depot last minute. I made sure I stuck some around the screw holes.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

wow nice! Those P69s look pretty sick!


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

Have any tips or pics on pulling it apart? I will be doing something in the wife's 09 Cooper S soon... She has been bugging me for almost a year now.


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

In a word..... Wicked! The overall install looks awesome....


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

Tonyguy said:


> wow nice! Those P69s look pretty sick!


When the sidepanels are back in, you can see them though the grilles. 



el_chupo_ said:


> Have any tips or pics on pulling it apart? I will be doing something in the wife's 09 Cooper S soon... She has been bugging me for almost a year now.


It was pretty straightforward, except the seatback which was tricky. Google was really helpful, believe it or not. The car comes apart very nicely, the plastics are strong and the panels pop off easily and don't slice up your hands. German cars ftw. 




Audiophillic said:


> In a word..... Wicked! The overall install looks awesome....


Thanks! I should have the car back together soon and run the wires to the front as well as get everything wired up.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

wow...how did i miss this? Awesome job and i have added this to my favorites.
I installed front comps and and soundstream MC300 amp and PG 215iX with a IDQ12 v3 in my own 2009 Mini Cooper S

Are you going to use any kind of OEM integration device like the Cleansweep or RF 3Sixty?

I am listening to mine and thinking i would like to try that route next, currently i am using a LOC that i tapped into the front speakers.

I did not replace the rear speakers, i only faded them completely out. This was a time issue as i did not have time to go that far at the time.'

Thanks for putting the pictures up...can't wait until you get to the fronts...as you have seen in nam...the passive crossover fits nicely in the armrest....here is mine...sorry for the crappy picture.


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## Leno (Jan 4, 2009)

simple,clean and effective -- I like it ! Rock the mini ! Neat car as well . Now go crank some Tesla on that badboy -- lololol -- well when you get it playing at least lololol --


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

i found the sound not so plesent with the tweeter in the mid location, and better in the a pillar area. gonna order the pillers later when i get the dough its 90 dollars


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

miniSQ said:


> wow...how did i miss this? Awesome job and i have added this to my favorites.
> 
> Are you going to use any kind of OEM integration device like the Cleansweep or RF 3Sixty?
> 
> Thanks for putting the pictures up...can't wait until you get to the fronts...as you have seen in nam...the passive crossover fits nicely in the armrest....here is mine...sorry for the crappy picture.


Thanks! No integration device, I'm pretty sure it's not needed even though I haven't had a chance to verify it yet. Once of the reasons why I went with the Arc Mini was the high level in and the signal sense, along with the small footprint. At one time I was going to go with a PDX-5 and 'H650, but I didn't want to complicate things too much and create potential headaches for myself (yet) because it's not my car. After this basic system goes in, I'll pitch another 2 channels to go active and processing  I haven't looked at the doors yet, but I'll look into that location for the passives. I'd rather not mount them in the door, but it might be easier that way for now. I'll look into that. Thanks for the heads up. I hope the passive isnt too big.



Leno said:


> simple,clean and effective -- I like it ! Rock the mini ! Neat car as well . Now go crank some Tesla on that badboy -- lololol -- well when you get it playing at least lololol --


I kinda like the car too, it's looks a lot better than it did before the window tint and the John Cooperworks grille when it looked too cute. The car itself needs really needs to sit ~1.5" closer to the ground; the wheelgap is f-ugly.



bmwproboi05 said:


> i found the sound not so plesent with the tweeter in the mid location, and better in the a pillar area. gonna order the pillers later when i get the dough its 90 dollars


I'm going to stick with the stock location for now, just to keep it simple for now, although I've thought about putting the tweeter in the kickpanel or A-pillars. I dunno if all that work in worth it since I don't know if my brother can appreciate the difference yet. Maybe I'll get him to do it down the road, since my car is still stock and I've been sitting on equipment for it for a while.

I should have the car playing with the stock fronts tommorrow.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

simplyclean said:


> Thanks! No integration device, I'm pretty sure it's not needed even though I haven't had a chance to verify it yet. Once of the reasons why I went with the Arc Mini was the high level in and the signal sense, along with the small footprint. At one time I was going to go with a PDX-5 and 'H650, but I didn't want to complicate things too much and create potential headaches for myself (yet) because it's not my car. After this basic system goes in, I'll pitch another 2 channels to go active and processing  I haven't looked at the doors yet, but I'll look into that location for the passives. I'd rather not mount them in the door, but it might be easier that way for now. I'll look into that. Thanks for the heads up. I hope the passive isnt too big.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have an old school amp..no speaker level ins..i initially did a david navone loc..but have been reading that LOCs trim the bass response, so i recently spied a cleansweep on ebay for $100 so i am going to try that in place a of a LOC..i will report back on the differences if any.

I agree...i want to tint my windows too...

Ditto for the placing the tweets in the 4" mid location...it is totally fine....i have my tweets there and the image is high and well in front of me....no complaints there.

I will check back to see how the fronts are coming....and you should post this over at NAM


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

If you do an oem integration piece, Arc's SRI is a fine piece, and what I went within our r50. Little pricier than most LOC's, totally worth it though, and with that mini amp, would sing perfectly....


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

i hope you dont end up with the retarted ground noise, and alternator noise i got from doing the loc stuff.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

bmwproboi05 said:


> i hope you dont end up with the retarted ground noise, and alternator noise i got from doing the loc stuff.


I have done the LOC thing and the speaker level into an amp thing on my 09 mini...no noise at all. And i am using 10ga power wire and ground wire....maybe if i beef that up i will get noise???


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

miniSQ said:


> I have done the LOC thing and the speaker level into an amp thing on my 09 mini...no noise at all. And i am using 10ga power wire and ground wire....maybe if i beef that up i will get noise???


mayb. i used a 0ga wire. funny thing is that when we switched it to ftermarket h.u problem went away. i think ours has a bad factroy h.u


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## nfn15037 (Oct 18, 2009)

Lookin' good!


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## jcromero (Oct 6, 2009)

Hi Guys, I would like to install the Alpine pxe-h650 or the RF 3sixty.2, but for now I will install the Arc audio ADL with an Eclipse Eq1000, and the Arc Audio Ks900.6, the speakers will be CDT HD 2 way, I don't now if you had better results with a 3 way component.

I will post in a few days with my results, If someone has installed 3 way, I would like to know if there are a big difference for SQ.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

oldschool stuff is awesome, but the only thing that sucks about them is you need all these extras to integrate it in. I'm glad I went with a modern, efficient amp for this install, since the car's electrical and electronics are pretty pick. When I was working on the car the second time around (see next) post, the battery died. I jumped it let it idle and moved it. the next time I tried to start it, it didn't start and I couldn't take the key out and the starter relay kept clicking. Once it was jumpstarted, the gong/warning chime stayed on, coming from the center of the dash. Once we parked the car, turned it off and the hazard light ontop of the dash kept flashing and some chime kept going off, so we decided to disconnect battery and the car reset itself the next morning. Anyway, the system will probably get my EQX next spring.

A 3 way is tempting in this car, but I kind of like to keep it simple. The tweeters will probably go in the A pillars eventually.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

Speaker wires run and taped with scotch super 88 with the rca running alongside of it. Hockey tape was applied in the corners to keep the wires neat, but that's it as the seat goes over it and anything else would look tacky and overkill. 


























We just pulled the doorsill cover back and ran the rest of the 4 gauge up to the front and covered it in split loom. 










And did the same thing on the drivers side to the hood release area where the connector is to tap into the audio signals.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

speakers in box










speakers in door. The passives don't fit with the cover on..

I'll post the in between updates once I find my mouse since copying and pasting is a pita without one on a laptop. The Dynaudios are currently being broken in on deck power at low to low-moderate volume levels. I tried playing it with the bass knob jacked to +3, they have some thump and the door panel is really solid with just a bit of Hushman ~ 1.25 sq.ft behind each woofer and on some of the plastic inner skin around the woofer adjacent to the baffle in the door cavity.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

neat work, hence "simplyclean" probably fits really well .


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Looking sweet!! I had to remove my Crossover from the cover and just mount the Circuit board in the handle.....i wrapped it in sponge and it worked out fine.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

I installed he Cleansweep yesterday....( o9 MCS non-hifi ) did not make a noticeable difference...i don't think i expected it too...but i was hoping for something more than i got.
No worries..it should help my ipod SQ.


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## Bombtek (Nov 6, 2009)

SimplyClean, Any updates?


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

ooohhh, Dyn....I like Dyn! Can't wait to get mine in my install so i can share in the brotherhood!! Sexy Ass speakers in my book.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)




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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

The plates are 1/4" mdf cut with a jigsaw and a holesaw for the tweeter and then rattle canned with Duplicolor high temp exhaust paint because it was what I had around. The MW152 woofer sits perfectly in the door. The factory woofer has this lip on the it that helps direct the sound out the factory grille by butting up against the doorpanel. (you can see the crease in the foam in the pics). I'll try to get an upclose pic of it with the panel installed, but it sits perfectly. If it was the MW162 woofer or anything else larger, I'd be worried about the surround slapping against the foam on the doorpanel. I didn't want to hack the car up. 

I finally got around to running the power up and splicing into the connector at the wheelwell. I cut soldered and heatshunk some rcas that came with the amp kit to the speaker leads at the kickpanel. Unfortunately, it was getting to be a pain in the ass to try and solder the stinger 16g to the factory speaker leads running into the door, that I just used butt connectors for now because they were too short. Next spring, the speaker wires will be upgraded with more sound deadening and maybe something to help direct the tweeter's output on the stock housing more since it sits kinda recessed in there. 

I finally got the car playing. It sounds pretty good. The 222s have are at -2dB on the passive and the they're crossedover at 80Hz ish along with the P69s. The P69s sound pretty good for what they are. They really do "sound" like 10s in this car. I had the system bumping playing tracks off sublime sublime album, black eye peas the end, jay-z's blueprint iii, but the setup really shined with my put in dave matthew's crash album.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

sydmonster said:


> neat work, hence "simplyclean" probably fits really well .


Thanks. I'm trying to keep things that way (cars too) and this install was a warmup to my own that is starting soon. I wanted to minimize the weak links but still remember that there is a point of diminishing return, know what I mean? 

There are many things I would do properly if I had time though and the resources. There's going to be a v1.5 of this next spring with new upgraded speaker/ signal wire, more deadening (doors, especially the hatch that can rattle like a mofo now , new baffles for the mid that are chamfered and a fix for the tweeter. 



miniSQ said:


> Looking sweet!! I had to remove my Crossover from the cover and just mount the Circuit board in the handle.....i wrapped it in sponge and it worked out fine.


The armrest covers just fit with w/o the xo covers; the only problem is that you can hear the plastics buzz at high volumes. they're just pressure fit in right now, but i might silicone them in place or something



miniSQ said:


> I installed he Cleansweep yesterday....( o9 MCS non-hifi ) did not make a noticeable difference...i don't think i expected it too...but i was hoping for something more than i got.
> No worries..it should help my ipod SQ.


If it cleans up the ipod, that's cool. garbage in, garbage out. 




mattyjman said:


> ooohhh, Dyn....I like Dyn! Can't wait to get mine in my install so i can share in the brotherhood!! Sexy Ass speakers in my book.


I can't wait to install my own set too, along with the rest of the stuff I've been sitting on for almost a year as I continue to listen to stock....


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

Oh and I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the autosense circuit on the arc mini. it stays on even when the car is off, so i have to flip the switch on the amp to turn it on and off right now.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Nice....simple and clean my kind of install. what is your impression on the arc mini running the whole system?


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

trojan fan said:


> Nice....simple and clean my kind of install. what is your impression on the arc mini running the whole system?


Thanks man. I really love this system, it is really steath. I'll more pictures up soon of the final product and the rest of the wiring. The only thing that really gives it away is the silver dustcaps of the P69s and the MW102 through the stock grilles. I was going to focus on just making sure the doors and rear quarters that enough dampening since when you put a speaker into a box, they interact as one. Those P69s really do sound "like" a 10" as described in the manual.

The 4 channel arc mini does a great job. It has plenty of output and the 6 speakers (even though I have 16g going to the really thin factory wiring going into the door for how) get pretty loud  When listening to stuff more musical, between them and the Dyns, it sounds pretty detailed. When I played stuff loud and stupid, the Dyns didn't breakup at all nor did the P69s. I just heard a lot of panel vibration. The amp is great because it's so small and the input level selection was important to me because i wanted to avoid using an loc. This car also has messed up electronics so the new class G technology is nice so it's pretty efficient and not a power hog. I have no system noise in this install if it means anything. 











I'm still trying to figure out what is with the autosense. It's not the amp, it's the car. When I got into the car yesterday, the stereo turn on right away because I left the autosense on the on position. It started up right away. I pulled the rcas and the amp stopped. I think there is a delay. I had the car sit for 12 hours again and car started fine. Is there a delay on the factory radio? I suspect that when the starter switch on the dash is illuminated, there is something signal coming out of the speaker outputs. I might run a wire to the aux 12V socket on the otherside the trunk/boot as a backup.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

If you like Crash....try playing the Big Whiskey CD....i have been really loving that CD in my car all week. Super crispy with some good kickdrums.

As for your autosense....its early in the morning and just getting my first cup of coffee....but where did you pick up the remote lead from?

When i first did mine, i picked it up from the rear cig lighter and that wire becomes hot when you open the boot...so my amps and processors would turn on when i opened my doors. Putting in the cleansweep fixed that.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

I didn't use a remote turn on lead, the input section of the arc mini has an autosense circuit that is working great now, I think.

I just went back to the car and put my ear up to the rear taillight to listen for the fan running off the arc. I didn't hear anything and start button wasn't illuminated. So I'm figuring that they when the start button is illuminated, there's something output through the speaker leads and the start button stays illuminated and turns off after a delay though the mini headunit itself. Does this sound right?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

simplyclean said:


> I didn't use a remote turn on lead, the input section of the arc mini has an autosense circuit that is working great now, I think.
> 
> I just went back to the car and put my ear up to the rear taillight to listen for the fan running off the arc. I didn't hear anything and start button wasn't illuminated. So I'm figuring that they when the start button is illuminated, there's something output through the speaker leads and the start button stays illuminated and turns off after a delay though the mini headunit itself. Does this sound right?



yeah that sounds right...there is a guy "schatzy62" over at North American Motoring that seems to have a real handle on the electrical system in the mini...have you poked around over there?
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Navigation & Audio


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## Bombtek (Nov 6, 2009)

Looks great simplyclean!


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## PGT FTW (Oct 19, 2009)

nice install. I put a similar one in my R53 with old school Kicker F69's in the sidepanels and and amp where the OEM NAV goes under the passenger's seat. It fooled a LOT of people


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## jaydub (Feb 22, 2010)

Gotta bump this old thread, but this is precisely what I'm looking to do with my R56 John Cooper Works. I like the idea of hiding the amp in that side panel, and I've got an older set of CDT ES-620s I'll be using up front. I've been hoping to get away from using a sub in the car, and it seems like those 6x9 subs might fit the bill for rear duty. 

Looks great though! I'm curious - did you lose the ability to fade/balance? I've got a JL CleanSweep, but if I can skip using it in favor of just using the speaker level inputs, that'd be far simpler.

Thanks!


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

jaydub said:


> Gotta bump this old thread, but this is precisely what I'm looking to do with my R56 John Cooper Works. I like the idea of hiding the amp in that side panel, and I've got an older set of CDT ES-620s I'll be using up front. I've been hoping to get away from using a sub in the car, and it seems like those 6x9 subs might fit the bill for rear duty.
> 
> Looks great though! I'm curious - did you lose the ability to fade/balance? I've got a JL CleanSweep, but if I can skip using it in favor of just using the speaker level inputs, that'd be far simpler.
> 
> Thanks!


in my jcw i used the focals they added alot of bass, that when i added a 10w3 in i couldnt really even hear it unless i cranked it up obnoticly (sp) .


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

Good luck finding the Genesis P69's... and if you do, let me know where, cause I want a set now too!


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## jaydub (Feb 22, 2010)

I never found any. :\


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## twosevennine (Jun 30, 2009)

Im currently using these in my mini 
Cadence cvlw-69
maybe an alternative to the Genesis?


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## twocupsofbutter (Apr 20, 2009)

How is the soundstage putting the tweeter midway on the door?

I have a Clubman(R55) with Hifi , but will need to remake my A-pillars to fit my tweeters in.

Thinking of using a Bit one for the integration piece

nice install!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

twocupsofbutter said:


> How is the soundstage putting the tweeter midway on the door?
> 
> I have a Clubman(R55) with Hifi , but will need to remake my A-pillars to fit my tweeters in.
> 
> ...


its not bad...unless you have a passenger and then it completely collapses. you should be able to angle the tweeter up a little to help out.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

Hey everyone, it's been a while and thanks for the feedback.

The system still sounds great for what it is. The car itself is pretty noisy, even at idle... as long as it's not playing through the ipod adaptor that plugs into the cigarette lighter and connects through the aux input. The car is definitely getting dedicated ipod input. Are they any aftermarket solutions or is BMW Mini the only place that works? And does the car necessarily have to go into the dealer for the software update?

I'm probably going to take the car apart and put in some more deadner on the doors and put some foam between the panels. When I take apart the doors again, I might run new wire through.

The tweeter sits in the factory opening in the door a little on the recessed side, I'm sure the output of the tweeter is restricted somewhat by the housing. I'm thinking about spacing it out a little more the tweeter sits close the the factory grille. The placement of the tweeter itself is a bit on the low side. I find when there's someone sitting shotgun, they're knee ends up blocking the tweeter. I might end up moving them to the A-pillars.

I got the signal off the fronts only; rears don't work.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but those looking into the P69s, I got them from The Autophile a little over a year ago.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

simplyclean said:


> Hey everyone, it's been a while and thanks for the feedback.
> 
> The system still sounds great for what it is. The car itself is pretty noisy, even at idle... as long as it's not playing through the ipod adaptor that plugs into the cigarette lighter and connects through the aux input. The car is definitely getting dedicated ipod input. Are they any aftermarket solutions or is BMW Mini the only place that works? And does the car necessarily have to go into the dealer for the software update?
> 
> ...


I agree with you on the tweeter locations...i don't want to move them all the way to the a-pillar....but they need some help with getting the sound stage UP. Mine is all apart now...i am switching to an arc audio 300.4 to run everything and i pulled the crappy ID comps out and replaced them with some nice morell's...still undecided on pulling the cleansweep or not.

I think you do need to go to the dealer for any software updates....and i am not sure about the iPod interface...but i agree the aux input sounds lifeless. i can play the iPod off my cleansweep....but i have not tried that yet. maybe this weekend. should be MUCH better.


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## twosevennine (Jun 30, 2009)

If your going to do ipod only just get a high quality separate DAC so you can run digital right out of the ipod. The ipods DAC isnt that great... and thats why it sounds lifeless, its not minis fault... well maybe it is, they should have went all digital in the first place....


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## MattyKHZ (Jan 11, 2010)

I have a mini and I am led to believe you need a multi changer prep which fits in a secret compartment above the glove box in order to install the ipod integration. My 2006 R56 Cooper S (one of the first) does not have this so I cannot retrofit.

Also you can get the A pillars with the tweeter location in from the Hifi Upgrade. Cost £25 each here in the UK. You can find the part number on Real OEM.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

twosevennine said:


> Im currently using these in my mini
> Cadence cvlw-69
> maybe an alternative to the Genesis?


They may be that-but the Genesis were DESIGNED for the Mini-join Talk Audio and find Gordon Genesis on there and you're talking to the company CEO/owner/founder-exceptionally helpful chap-but with a wicked sense of humour!

I bought a 2nd hand S3 5ch from "cash converters" for just £50, emailed them on a saturday regarding some missiing screws and had an email back 5mins later from Gordon-best customer service I've ever experienced

Sorry for the thread hijack


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

Good looking install and great choice of kit

I'm in the Uk and just about to start an install on the older 2003 S Works. Will be Dynaudio all run active off Genesis 5ch and also a Dual Mono and either 2x IDQ10v2 in the boot isobarically mounted or a Phase Linear Aliante 10 where my glovebox should be Or maybe two REL 8" or even two KEF B139s! (lots of auditioning to do)

When relocating the tweeters I'd NOT go for the off the shelf trims-ideally I'd position the tweeters higher up (so they clear all dash binacles) on axis and make my own builds-this is what I'll be doing after experimenting with the tweeter location properly!

Good luck with your next stages


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

Digging this build 



miniSQ said:


> Thanks for putting the pictures up...can't wait until you get to the fronts...as you have seen in nam...the passive crossover fits nicely in the armrest....here is mine...sorry for the crappy picture.


Wow. I thought we (my friend and I) figured out that passive crossover hideaway ourselves!


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## Audiophillic (May 26, 2009)

For what it's worth, you can still get the P69's directly from Genesis. They are down to the last few 8ohm versions. I ordered mine, and had them in 3 days from the UK. Wicked service, and Gordon Taylor is a super nice fellow.


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## astrochex (Aug 7, 2009)

Any further impressions of the P69s?

I really like the cleanness of this install.

Thanks.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

astrochex said:


> Any further impressions of the P69s?
> 
> I really like the cleanness of this install.
> 
> Thanks.


Not used them myself, but have heard very good things-give an output on par with a decent 10", more SQ focused then SPL but pretty sure a UK demo car was hitting close to 130dB with the P69s off one of the Profile range of amps.

If you go onto talkaudio.co.uk and search them there's quite a lot of info.

Would have gone for them myself-but have TA on my HU and wanted to stick to one bass source, so either IDQ10V2 x2 (isobarically mounted in the boot) or an Aliante 10" up front(yet to test in car)


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## astrochex (Aug 7, 2009)

Great link, thanks, TBG!

They appear to be just what I am looking for.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

astrochex said:


> Great link, thanks, TBG!
> 
> They appear to be just what I am looking for.


No worries


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## kadaj (Jun 16, 2013)

great set up!!! I want one, Check your pm simple


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## kadaj (Jun 16, 2013)

simplyclean said:


> Hey everyone, it's been a while and thanks for the feedback.
> 
> The system still sounds great for what it is. The car itself is pretty noisy, even at idle... as long as it's not playing through the ipod adaptor that plugs into the cigarette lighter and connects through the aux input. The car is definitely getting dedicated ipod input. Are they any aftermarket solutions or is BMW Mini the only place that works? And does the car necessarily have to go into the dealer for the software update?
> 
> ...


hey simple sent u a pm, check it out and let me know


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