# rookie here 05 F150 install



## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Well first I would like to thank all the pro's and weekend warriors that have posted on this forum. I have read and learned an amazing amount to push my very novice skill set up to a novice :laugh:. I have been getting things together for my install coming up and have I few preliminary pics of things still in the build stage. Please give me some incite if something looks out of place or that might cause some head aches later on for me. 


Build Specs:

2 rolls of Raammat Bxt sound dampener
10 yards of ensolite sound dampening foam
1 set of Diamond Hex 6.0 components w/ alum tweets going to switch for silk
Avic D3 
JL 500/1 amp 
JL 300/4 amp
1 Dayton Reference 10" HO sub (still looking to purchase one)
Custom fiberglass door pods
Custom fiberglass sub box
KnuKnoceptz install accessories
Tech Flex wire looming
Non metallic electrical conduit for running 1/0 under the cab


I am sure I am forgetting some stuff but that is the main items. I do plan on upgrading the factory grounds and battery to alt fused link as well. 

Roughly half of the install stuff:










Here are the speaker pods in a rough state but will give you an idea of where I am going with them. 









Here they are rough fitted in the truck:




































The amp board (still in mock up):





















Well that is all I have for right now, again this is not a great install by any means but this is the most involved I have ever been with one of my audio installs and so far I am very proud of what I have acomplished. I give total credit to you guys in this forum for bringing it to the level it is at now. I have plans on tech flexing all wires in the install and will hopefully be doing that this weekend along with running the main 1/0 power run to the back of the cab. 

Oh and here is a picture of the truck its going in:
2005 F150 5.4l 3v supercrew lariat 










Sorry for the novel I just wanted to portrait some of the knowledge I have learned in the thread.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Very nice so far! Love the truck! Hopefully I'll be getting one from work soon


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## bigzaj (Mar 29, 2009)

I just got an 09 F150, how did you run the power wire?


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

bigzaj said:


> I just got an 09 F150, how did you run the power wire?


I have not installed it yet, but I am going to be running it under the truck inside of a non metallic conduit and then enter underneath the cab. There is a small area where you can drill a hole and put in a proper grommet to seal it up. The best part is it will come in behind the back seat so you will not have an unsightly 5/8" bulge from a 1/0 cable running to the back. This way it will leave me with both wire harness tracks on either side of the truck to run my 4 runs of 12ga speaker wire to the front speakers. And then I can run the rca's down the center of the cab and hopefully not have any electrical noise to interfere with the rca signal.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Ok well it is official, I just made this install about a 100 times harder. Instead of the dayton reference 10 ho sub, I have decided to go with the DIYMA reference 12 sub. The mount depth of the sub is 6.3" the room I have to work with is 5.875" so I am going to tip the sub a little bit. This also will have to be a little bit larger of an enclosure as well because it requires about 1 cubic foot sealed. So once this sub comes in I plan on forming a game plan for the box. I will try to keep you updated on how this box is going, I think I will just end up coating the thing with bed liner instead of messing with carpeting or anything else.


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## jowens500 (Sep 5, 2008)

Nice work on the door pods. I'm not so sure about the tweeter placement though. Looks like they fire straight into the seats.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks ya it does look that way from the pictures, but the way I will be mounting them in there I don't think I will have any issues and if I do, I guess I will just have to go back to the drawing board and try again.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Well I got the amp board all squared away last night, I will try to get pics this evening. But I tech flexed all the wires on the board color coded them and got everything soldered. So this weekend if the weather complies with my terms, I will be installing the sound dampener in the truck, and running the electrical conduit under the truck and getting the amps on the rear wall. But as of right now I will probably finish up wrapping the speaker pods in leather.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Well here is a little update on how things are going. 

The amp rack has been finished. I have color coded tech flexed all the wires. I made my rca's and put them through the board. I got my 8 ga speaker wire for the sub ran through the board. 


















and I know I have to give an update on the speaker pods so here it is. I am just finishing up wrapping them up and I still have to mount the tweeters in them.









Here is a few misc pics of the build as well:
The twisted 8ga next to 1/0:










Here are a couple shots of the amps with all the wiring hooked up:

500/1









300/4 bridged 










Well back to work I go.


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## KMelt (Jan 19, 2009)

I like your install,looking forward to more. Fiberglass looks great..


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Looks good so far.

if you plan to put the sub under the seat, I highly doubt you will make it fit without a seat lift. Those DIYMA subs are big, heavy, and have a huge magnet.

The door pods look good but I'd be a little worried about them being mounted right to the plastic door panel, You are going to get a lot of buzzing. make sure to put deadener/ensolite on the back of those plastic door panels.


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

Fail!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> Looks good so far.
> 
> if you plan to put the sub under the seat, I highly doubt you will make it fit without a seat lift. Those DIYMA subs are big, heavy, and have a huge magnet.
> 
> The door pods look good but I'd be a little worried about them being mounted right to the plastic door panel, You are going to get a lot of buzzing. make sure to put deadener/ensolite on the back of those plastic door panels.


Ya I am worried about it to, but I plan on putting some soft modeling clay in between the plastic and the pod. If it does not work I will just buy another set of the factory covers then sell these to someone else who it won't bother. 

I know I am kinda hopeful wishing as far as the sub under the seat without a lift. 

I was thinking this weekend about making a box inside of the center console and putting it down inside there. What do you guys think about this idea?


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Low_e_Red said:


> Fail!!!!!!!!!!!


Never can please you can we.....


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Center console build day 1:

Well I simply came across for a sub that for a price that I simply could not pass up. I ordered a DIYMA Reference 12. This sub has a massive massive magnet, weighing in at just under 40 pounds. The sub unfortunately has a mount depth of 6.3”, an x max just short of 1”, and needs about a ½” behind the pole vent on the motor. That means I need a min of 7.8” which for those of you keeping tally means I will not in anyway shape or form be able to fit this sub under my seat, thus leading me to build a subwoofer enclosure out of the center console. 

The tare out of the center console was pretty straight forward. The base around the shifter and cup holders is held on with some simple pressure clips and pops right off with little effort. 

The pile:









Next you will want to unscrew the center console lid from the black tray (requires a torx but I forgot the size of it).

After you have the lid off you can now undo a few bolts (7mm, I believe) and take the gray trim ring off leaving just the tan sides and the black console tray in place. 

The black tray will now have a few more bolts holding it to the walls of the console. There are 4 more bolts on the bottom of this black tray as well.

Now you will lift the black console piece out of the way. The tan piece that holds the rear air vents and 12v source is held in place with simple pressure clips and will pop off very easily. Be sure to disconnect the wiring harness to it before you try removing it completely.


Then there are a four 10 mm bolts left holding the tan walls together. There are two located at the back of the console; these can be accessed by sliding your seats all the way forward. There are two more left at the front of the console behind a two trim panels you will have to remove to get to them.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Now that the console is out of the truck I needed to remove the rear air duct. There are a few more bolts that need to be pulled out of the remaining console “guts”. After taking out the guts of the console I decided that I would need to cut down the main piece so that I can get the proper clearance for the new sub. 

The mark up:


















The separation:



















Since I would no longer be using the rear air I decided I would go ahead and delete the rear air vents along with the rear 12v source. I drilled small holes in the surface of the trim panels and sanded it down to make sure the fiberglass would properly bond to the panel. I will be wrapping this piece with tan leather once I apply a coat of body filler and sand it down smooth. 

The piece:









Ready for resin:


















Resin applied:


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Next I figured out how much of the bottom to cut off of the black console piece. I will be putting a .375” thick piece of acrylic in the bottom so that I can show off the sub once it is installed. I will also be adding a few leds to light the area up once I figure out where I want to mount them.

The markup:



























The separation:



















I am also making a fiberglass plug to stop the airflow to the now deleted flow through console. 


Misc pics from the day:

The cut shifter back in place:









The console rebuilt to get marked up:



















Well that is all for today I will try to get some more pics updated tomorrow after I get some more work done on it this evening.


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## Stanthrax (Jul 20, 2008)

Nice work, I love your door pods.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks I put a lot of work into them and now I am already considering making another set in a different configuration.


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## KMelt (Jan 19, 2009)

My brother picked up one those special $$ Diyma 12's last week, That thing is quite Beastly, and sure it sounds awesome. Those door pods are freakin sweet, look forward to the next config.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day 2:

Well today I received my driver in the mail. My first impressions of the sub are simply wow. I knew coming in to buying this sub that it was going to be big but dang this thing actually fills out the center console perfectly. Here are a few pics of it:

Here it is just waiting to be opened:









The DIYMA Reference 12:


















Scale reference:



















I managed to go get more resin last night so I managed to get the rear air vent plug started and I got one more layer of glass on the rear air delete panel as well. Tonight I will be getting that smoothed over with body filler and have it sanded down for tomorrow so I can get it wrapped in leather.

Rear air plug: (glass is sloppy in this pic I smoothed it out later on)









Rear air delete:


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I am getting ready to make the tub for the enclosure, and here is the area prepped for the fiberglass. I won’t be starting this part until this weekend as I want to be able to have the windows and doors all open on the truck so I don’t get fumed out. 

Mark up:









Here are pics of where the sub will be sitting in the truck:



























I also have some acrylic being cut so I can make a window in the bottom of the console so that you can see this sub after the install. 


Misc pics:

Mount area where sub will be sitting:










Sorry guys but I had a lot going on last night so I didn’t get much accomplished so I will hopefully make up for it this evening.


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## Problemhouston (Apr 2, 2009)

Where are you going to mount or where are your amps?


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Problemhouston said:


> Where are you going to mount or where are your amps?




On the back wall of the cab behind the rear seats


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## Problemhouston (Apr 2, 2009)

The reason I ask is, I plan on putting my amps behind the seat as well. I am going to be running McIntosh amps if they fit. Because the Macs are so tall it will be a tight fit and I am afraid that the fans in the amps won't be able to keep them as cool as I would like them to run. So my idea is to run some tubing from one of the vents to the area behind the seat to at least get some cool air back there. I just have to figure out where to tap in and how to disconnect during the winter when I don't want to be blowing hot air on my amps. Right now it's just an idea but since you are in a position to maybe incorporate something like this I thought I would throw it out there. I have a 2006 Supercrew XLT...


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks, but I am build a sub in my center console so I had to delete my rear air. I don't think I should have any issues with amps going thermal any way. 

I know another member on here tried to fit some mac's on his back wall and could not do it. 

Here is the link to his thread it is a very very good thread and has lots of useful info in it (it is a f150 install as well)
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/53086-my-2008-f150-supercrew-install.html


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## Problemhouston (Apr 2, 2009)

05_sprcrw said:


> Thanks, but I am build a sub in my center console so I had to delete my rear air. I don't think I should have any issues with amps going thermal any way.
> 
> I know another member on here tried to fit some mac's on his back wall and could not do it.
> 
> ...


I am going through that build right now and getting lots of info. The Mac amp are great and I would reall like to use them. They have been sitting in my garage for years now and if I don't use them now I don't know when I will be able too. I won't know for sure until I get that seat back off and look at it all. I will be following our install closely as well.


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Problemhouston said:


> The reason I ask is, I plan on putting my amps behind the seat as well. I am going to be running McIntosh amps if they fit. Because the Macs are so tall it will be a tight fit and I am afraid that the fans in the amps won't be able to keep them as cool as I would like them to run. So my idea is to run some tubing from one of the vents to the area behind the seat to at least get some cool air back there. I just have to figure out where to tap in and how to disconnect during the winter when I don't want to be blowing hot air on my amps. Right now it's just an idea but since you are in a position to maybe incorporate something like this I thought I would throw it out there. I have a 2006 Supercrew XLT...


Houston,

If you have not already seen this thread, take a look:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/53086-my-2008-f150-supercrew-install.html


My apologies to the OP here. I am not trying to thread jack, but since I originally started out with McIntosh amps, I wanted to help. 

If you review the early parts of my install, you will see I started with 2 McIntosh amps. I had to sell them both because I could not get them to fit. There are many many threads where others have gotten multiple amps to fit. I eventually got three. The two Audison amps I ended up with in lieu of my MACS were MUCH MUCH smaller in all dimensions. Yet, I still ended up with almost no room on the rear wall. Those amps are tight to the seat, braces, etc. I even have pics of how close they are to the steel seat bracket.

Anyway, I dont want to ruin your parade, but I am betting you will not be able to fit them behind the seat. Especially if you have more than one on your mind. I am not sure even one MAC amp would fit. It would have to go VERY low on the wall, almost start touching the floor.

Again, my apologies to the OP.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

ARCuhTEK said:


> Houston,
> 
> If you have not already seen this thread, take a look:
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/53086-my-2008-f150-supercrew-install.html
> ...


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

No worries man I came over here from F150 your posts there kinda turned me on to this site. And oddly enough I passed him on to your thread a few posts up.


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

HA HAHA HAAAA. I just saw that you were already discussing my thread above. I am glad you found it. Let me know if you have questions.

I am following this thread as well. Very interested. Especially with that sub that looks to be about as big as a 12 pack if Mic Ultra!!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

ya it will be a fun little project I can't wait til I am done and listening.


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## talibmohamid (Dec 5, 2008)

Ur work looks real nice man.......no rookie in ya LOL....keep it up


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks, my fab skills are up to par but when it comes to tuning my system, I assure you I am still a rookie.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day 3:

Well tonight, I went at it with a reckless abandon. I did not have any interruptions and managed to get a decent amount of work done. 


I started off by applying the body filler so that had time to dry while I was working on the fiberglass.

Body filler applied:










Next on the list was to mark off were I was going to need to make the console wider so I took the console back to the truck and got the center lines in and marked.











I then removed a tab on each side of the console that was going to get in the way.

Tab On: (The tab is located next to the oval)









Tab Off:










I then cut my plexiglass, and got the window arranged in the box.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Next I assembled the entire console so I could make the top half of my sub box.









I cut out the widening slots to allow room for the ring.

After all that I lined everything with tape and cardboard so that I could start the glass work.




































Resin applied








A roller is your friend when fiber glassing that is all I can say. I don’t know why but in this picture it looks like there are a few air bubbles but there are zero in the glass, so no worries there.

After I got it all covered in resin and 3 layers of glass I let that dry so I could come back to the rear air delete. I got it all sanded down and prepped for the vinyl and glue.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Well after about an hour of gluing, heating, and stretching I got the panel finished, sorry no pics of the stretching.

Finished rear air delete panel:



















And lastly I took the shifter back to the truck and reassembled it so I could drive to work this morning and post this up.


Misc Pics:


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

Nice. Bout time an F150 install worth watching.... (cough cough Marc's sucks)

Is that leather or vinyl? Cause it almost looks like vinyl in the pics.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Low_e_Red said:


> Nice. Bout time an F150 install worth watching.... (cough cough Marc's sucks)
> 
> Is that leather or vinyl? Cause it almost looks like vinyl in the pics.


It is vinyl, and the pics came out kinda funny it shows some marks on the vinyl that are not there, could be a dirty camera as it just sits next to me while I am working on all this :blush:


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Low_e_Red said:


> Nice. Bout time an F150 install worth watching.... (cough cough Marc's sucks)
> 
> Is that leather or vinyl? Cause it almost looks like vinyl in the pics.


What? Dont be dissin F150 threads!!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day 5:

Well there has been a lot of work that has been accomplished off camera in the past couple days. I have managed to get my “big 4” ground and power cables in the engine bay done, along with making my (4) 20’ runs of speaker wire tech flexed and connectors soldered on. I have the main power cable ran to the back of the cab via caraflex non metallic conduit running under the cab, secured to the frame. 

A few big 4 random pics:
Stock body to frame ground:









Upgraded 1/0 body to frame ground:









Shot of the engine bay:









Well over the past couple of days I have been working mainly on adding layers to the box. I have about 10 layers on the box. Things are coming together very nicely and I am starting to get antsy waiting for this thing to get finished.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I tackled making a base plate for this box as well; I started by fabricating my 1.25” spacer ring out of 2 pieces of ¾ birch, and finished it off with a flush mount offset for the sub to sit on. 



















After ring has been added to the base plate:









Test fit on the box:









While waiting for glass to dry I decided I would need a way to securely hold the back of the console down. I ended up using some .125” thick 6061 T6 alum plates to hold it securely to the floor of the truck.










Misc Pics:


Well that is all I have for the day at least I got some pictures right?
Tonight I plan on adding some layers to the base plate to get that up to par with the box. I also have an idea to incorporate some LED’s and a contact switch. I have a plan to light them up only when the console is open, otherwise they will be shut off. I have purchased some good 180 deg wide angle green LED’s to put into the enclosure. On a side note I am considering getting a logo etched into the plexiglass however I need some ideas so feel free to throw some out.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I love these kind of threads.

Keep up the good work!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks, its a fun project I can't wait to get it done so I can hear the DIYMA R12.


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## blacksvtf03 (Feb 27, 2009)

Looking damn good, for a supposed rookie, LOL Great job so far


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day 6:

I managed to get 9 layers down on the base as well last night, I am going to wait for it to dry and see how strong they are. I was planning on 10 to 15 layers, but I am feeling confident that this will be strong enough as is. I am using a thicker mat this time around as well, so I know it will be stronger. I am thinking that I will probably be trimming up everything this evening and possibly mounting the sub to the base getting ready to put the two halves together. I am hoping that tomorrow night I can get the two halves together, so I can focus on some of the cosmetics that the box will be getting, such as lighting, and the plexiglass insert, I am also going to be getting my contact switches in this weekend. 

I figure I should at least have the amps and all speaker wire runs done and in the truck this weekend. I have the molex plug connector which makes life hell, so I will have to drill some new holes in the door and the chassis to get the speaker wires through to the doors. I will be laying sound dampener over the weekend; I don’t think I will have the clay in time to put the clay around my speaker mid base rings, and to help add mass to the center console. 

9 layers of mat on base plate:


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Big task for a self proclaimed "beginner" hehe. Work is looking very pro!! 

Good job mate. Can't wait to see this done!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments guys, but I assure you I am a rookie when it comes to the actual audio portion. I am a very good fabricator and have been rebuilding boats and things like that with fiberglass so that is the easy part of things. I will have plenty of questions on tuning this system once it is all installed. Anyway back to the build:


Day 7:

Well last night I got it all trimmed and was ready to put the two halves together but I did not like the way it was going together so I decided to sacrifice about .15 ft^3 and went about making a different base plate. This will now put my enclosure down to about .6 ft^3 so I plan on adding a bit of poly fill to the front lip area to help gain some of what I lost hopefully. I managed to get 7 layers down on the new base plate last night, leaving me with only to seal off the last little bit of front chamber. I am hoping to get that done first thing tonight leaving me with only the painting and cutting the openings out. 

Measuring out the new base plate:


















After the glassing:



















I also tackled the rear air delete plug last night as well, it has been sitting on the back burner since I first made the mold. 



















Tonight I am planning on finishing up the box (seriously this time), and getting the plexiglass window trimmed and set in. Once I get the plexiglass window opening made in the box I am going to give it until Sunday to cure a little bit more. I am also going to be painting the entire enclosure a tan color that will hopefully match the interior tan. I am going to be installing the rest of the audio equipment this weekend while I am waiting for the box to cure. So this weekend will still be busy but there won’t be much done with the box.


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## Erik4Danielle (Apr 12, 2009)

Looks like you are well on your way. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day 7:

Well over the last couple of days I have not got a lot accomplished on the box itself. I will be getting another chance tonight to work on the box. However, I have been working on the main install of everything while I let the box cure a little before I sand and paint. So I figured I can show the other random install pics I have, just to give you guys an update and so you know I am not slacking and leaving the suspense build on this box for no good reason. Here they are the install pics:

Box top cut out for the plexi:









Test fitting the rings:



























Mounting the tweeter pods:


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Sound dampening (have some clear plexiglass to seal off the big holes in the lower portion of the doors):













































Amp mounting (still have to route wires and permanently mount the wires) :



























Tonight I will be working on the box; I am going to be putting one more layer of glass on the box just for added measure. I am also hoping to get it sanded down and ready to go for paint tomorrow. I am hoping that in the next couple of days I can have this box in the truck and playing.


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

05_sprcrw said:


>


That is interesting how you decided to cut the sound mat into small strips. I have yet to add the mat to my doors (but I am running out of excuses since the weather is warmer now), so I am curious why you chose to go that route? Easier to handle? Too many contours and undulations in the doors?

No wrong or right method as far as I know...just curious.

Also...how did you cut it? I found a pair of basic scissors with good strong handles worked best for me.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

ARCuhTEK said:


> That is interesting how you decided to cut the sound mat into small strips. I have yet to add the mat to my doors (but I am running out of excuses since the weather is warmer now), so I am curious why you chose to go that route? Easier to handle? Too many contours and undulations in the doors?
> 
> No wrong or right method as far as I know...just curious.
> 
> Also...how did you cut it? I found a pair of basic scissors with good strong handles worked best for me.




I found that a good ole rotary fabric razor (the yellow handled wheel cutters) worked like a charm. I liked working with the little strips on the door they were easier to handle, plus there are a lot of small areas you have to go around and the smaller strips made that a lot easier. I ended up putting 2 layers on the outside of the door, inner door and the inner outter side of the door even though these pictures only show one layer. I will be sealing off the big bottom access point with some plexi here in about a week. My buddy owes me a favor and is getting me a full sheet of plexi for free from his work (gotta love professional favors).


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Ok guys I know I have let this thread die down a little bit, do to focusing on the build itself. Well I have some good news and some bad news! 

The good news is I finished it last night and powered this thing up and all I can say is WOW! This sub blends perfectly with the music and you can not localize the driver at all. I already have had three people think that the mid basses were putting out all the bass :banana:

The bad news is that I forgot the my camera's link cable at work so I can not upload pictures until tomorrow. There are a few things I would like to maybe expand upon later on but for now I can say this build is complete!

Thanks for all your help, and input along the way guys you truely helped me install a first class sq setup! Npdang thanks for the best sub ever! After hearing this woofer play I am sold, buy the end of the next week you will have money for two more of these amazing drivers!!!!

And I can officailly say that not only am I one of the only guys with a DIYMA in an F150, but I am the only one locally that has one, and I am one of the first guys in the area to do a center console build of this magnitiude. All of which I owe to the guys on this forum and Fiberglassforums. I am completely happy with this setup but I am already wanting to expand upon it. I am looking to find a 30 band graphic eq next and then from there who knows, I am considering a bit one, or a 3sixty.2. Well thats all for today I will get the last of the build pics and the final pics up sometime tomorrow.


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

05_sprcrw said:


> Ok guys I know I have let this thread die down a little bit, do to focusing on the build itself. Well I have some good news and some bad news!
> 
> The good news is I finished it last night and powered this thing up and all I can say is WOW! This sub blends perfectly with the music and you can not localize the driver at all. I already have had three people think that the mid basses were putting out all the bass :banana:
> 
> ...


I will have a Zapco DSP6, DRC-SL and ALL simbilink cables for sale too.....so let me know if it interests you at all and we can talk price. It will be about 3 weeks.

Cant wait to see your pics.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

ARCuhTEK said:


> I will have a Zapco DSP6, DRC-SL and ALL simbilink cables for sale too.....so let me know if it interests you at all and we can talk price. It will be about 3 weeks.
> 
> Cant wait to see your pics.


Very interested, pm me or I will pm you and we can talk.


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## pylda (Mar 13, 2009)

Where are the pics!!!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day: 14
Today I decided I would put everything together to make sure it all fit. I got everything test fitted in the garage and moved it into the truck. 










Side views of what will be visible:


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

It all checked out so I disassembled everything and set out to paint the box. Instead of sanding it silky smooth and then painting it, I decided I would rough it up and apply sound dampener inside and outside the box instead. 

I had a little bit of Raamatt leftover from the back wall so I used that up. I also got the rear air delete cap attached as well.






































Painting:



























As a side note the paint stuck really well to the sound dampener.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Day: 15
Now that the paint has dried, I glued and screwed the plexiglass to the top of the box. 

While that was drying I laid out the top console pieces and packed them with non hardening modeling clay to help reduce felt vibrations in the console. I used only about 10 lbs in the console, I will probably add more at a later date. I found that instead of working the modeling clay until it got soft that if you soak it in HOT tap water for about 30 min it will become a lot more workable and is a lot easier on the hands. I then packed the clay around the mounting base for the DIYMA to make a good seal, and help dampen the box from further vibrations.




























Packing clay around the console:


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Once the glue was dry I started to assemble everything for the final time. I bolted it all back together added one more bracket to the rear of the box so I could bolt it down to the floor. 





































I dropped the DIYMA into its final resting place and tightened down the screws. I moved it out to the truck put it into place, soldered the connections together, and finally powered up the system………..


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

And all I can say is this sub is by far the most translucent sub in existence! I am simply amazed at how well this thing blends and how accurate this sub is. It simply does not get better for a sq sub. (If you are local and want to hear it just let me know I will be more then happy to meet up with you)

And since I was bored and decided my D3 would need a good wallpaper to match up with the system I made it a new background:










Well that is all I have hopefully it inspired some of you to do something that may be outside your comfort level. I learned a lot through out the build of this and now am surrounded by complete musical bliss when I drive.

Final build specs are:

JL 500/1 v1 pushing a single DIYMA R12 in
a custom console enclosure with .5 ft^3

JL 300/4 v1 bridged pushing Diamond Audio Hex 6.0 speakers
Using the 5.0 crossovers with the silk tweets

KnuKoncpetz install accessories

Tech Flexed all wires

Pioneer Avic D3 dvd/navi hu

The big 4 re wire

Raamatt sound dampener.


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## ARCuhTEK (Dec 22, 2008)

Very cool. I am not all that hip on the painted sound mat, but since it is below the bottom of the seat and cannot be easily seen its no biggie. I can tell you I have zero comfort with fiberglass so I commend you! Maybe I should try (I purchased to DIYMA 12s). I cannot believe that the sub fit in the console. I would have never guessed. Granted it does exceed the OEM console dimensions some...but barely!

I also didnt know you had a D3. That is what I have as well. When I get my system finished, the wallpaper will be the first thing I do!! LOL. I have never done it because I keep having to disconnect the battery. Do you lose the wallpapers if so?

I also need to do the big 4.

Awesome work.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Ya it will revert back to factory wallpapers until you reinstall the new ones. It is a very simple process just make sure they are exactly 500 x 240 or 1000 x 480 etc. As long as it can be reduced down to 500 x 240 you will be good with zero distortion other wise it can do some funky things with the images. 

The painted sound dampener was just a trial I figured it would be a good spot to try it on since it will not be seen. Those tabs that stick out are just to accommodate the mounting ring. But in all honesty I thought I was going to have to mod it a lot more then that. 

As far as fiberglassing goes it is a lot easier then you might think. If you are considering it there are several good threads on Fiberglassforums.com that will help you immensely. Don't let yourself be intimidated by glassing if I can do it anyone can.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

I hope those small strips of Deadener dont fall off after a little while. Also, did you mount the amps straight to the wall without any boards between? 

Love the sub enclosures, thats a piece of art right there getting that thing to fit.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> I hope those small strips of Deadener dont fall off after a little while. Also, did you mount the amps straight to the wall without any boards between?
> 
> Love the sub enclosures, thats a piece of art right there getting that thing to fit.


Ya I had a couple guys tell me all about that oops, oh well live and learn they fall off I will buy another roll and do it over. Honestly it wouldn't be the most expensive mistake I have made modding :blush: 

I did mount the amps straight to the back wall. On the bottom they hang out away from the wall so I used a double threaded 3" spike and drove those into the wall then I used two nylon lock nuts on on the back side of the amp, and one on the front side to adjust them to level then locked them down good and tight. They hopefully won't be going anywhere. 

And thanks for the comments on the enclosure I am really happy with it, but for the record I will say I am not crazy on the painted sound dampener but it is hidden so oh well. I painted up nicely and holds the paint well, I just think it was the color.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Just FYI when the Raamat gets warm the stuff gets sticky so if you ever pull your amps off the bottom might be covered in black goop. But if you plan to keep them permanently you shouldn't have a problem.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> Just FYI when the Raamat gets warm the stuff gets sticky so if you ever pull your amps off the bottom might be covered in black goop. But if you plan to keep them permanently you shouldn't have a problem.


FWIW I have found that goo gone will take that goop off pretty easily. I know it will make a mess but I wanted to make sure I was going to have enough clearance.


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## pylda (Mar 13, 2009)

Did you use both rolls of Raamat?


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## sphinct0802 (May 1, 2009)

05 SPcrew, 
Your build write up was awesome. It is very very very similar to the build i will be starting on my 2008 Screw in about 3 weeks (minus the awesome custom sub enclosure you fabbed). I do have a quick question for you. What wiring harness did you go with for your D3? I opted for the avh-p4100dvd, but assume the harness is the same. Most of the pros here and at the f150online forum recomend the Metra brand. Any thoughts. Thanks again for your help.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

pylda said:


> Did you use both rolls of Raamat?


I didn't get my second roll yet but I will be using another roll with ease. I used 1 full roll on two front doors, back wall and a little leftover used up on the console enclosure




sphinct0802 said:


> 05 SPcrew,
> Your build write up was awesome. It is very very very similar to the build i will be starting on my 2008 Screw in about 3 weeks (minus the awesome custom sub enclosure you fabbed). I do have a quick question for you. What wiring harness did you go with for your D3? I opted for the avh-p4100dvd, but assume the harness is the same. Most of the pros here and at the f150online forum recomend the Metra brand. Any thoughts. Thanks again for your help.


Thanks I was doing something I have not really seen anyone undertake yet so I figured document it well. I hope it helps ya, and as far as the kit I went with metra I did not have any issues with it at all. I would not worry to much about the harness it is only going to be plugging in and holding the contacts together. I don't think there is anyway you can really get a bad wiring harness (besides the one that is not meant for you vehicle). Make sure to keep us posted, I love seeing F150 build projects, I will keep an eye out for ya, is your name the same over at F150? I have the same name across the board on every site I am on so feel free to ask questions there to.


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## CAMSHAFT (Apr 7, 2006)

Great job so far!! You are what DIYMA is all about!!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks a lot I have seen your cummings build thread and I am really excited to see that complete it sounds like it is going to be bad ass.


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## sphinct0802 (May 1, 2009)

05_sprcrw said:


> Make sure to keep us posted, I love seeing F150 build projects, I will keep an eye out for ya, is your name the same over at F150? I have the same name across the board on every site I am on so feel free to ask questions there to.


I will definately document my build, and probably post just as many questions seeing how this is my first major build as well. Do you remember the part number for the Metra harness. I looked at their web page and they have like 50 different models and i am having some issues differentiating between them.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I can find one for you are you installing your own amps and all? Are you going to need the dash kit as well? If you are not installing amps and the who nine yards are you going to tie into the stock system if so is it the audiophile.


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## Problemhouston (Apr 2, 2009)

CAMSHAFT said:


> Great job so far!! You are what DIYMA is all about!!


I agree... Keep it going.


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## sphinct0802 (May 1, 2009)

05_sprcrw said:


> I can find one for you are you installing your own amps and all? Are you going to need the dash kit as well? If you are not installing amps and the who nine yards are you going to tie into the stock system if so is it the audiophile.


I do need the dash kit as well, so i was hoping to consolidate all the part numbers at once. I will be running one JL 500/1 for the subs and one 300/4 for the speakers. New speakers all around, sound dampning, the whole 9 yards. Again, thanks for the help.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I don't know how much your worried about sound but if it were me (I have same amps) I would bridge the 300/4 into two channels and run it with only front channels. The rears really are not needed once you get a good set of speakers up front and are powering them off the amp. Plus this will help pull your stage forward.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

kit
This will take you to the site if you enter your vehicle specs into the selector then got o kits to get your dash kit, and after that go to the oem harness into car to get the proper adapter to connect the hu.


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## sphinct0802 (May 1, 2009)

I thought about bridging the amp and just runnin the fronts, would i sacrifice anything in terms of SQ by just runnin front speakers and nothing to the rear? Thanks for the link by the way.


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## CAMSHAFT (Apr 7, 2006)

05_sprcrw said:


> Thanks a lot I have seen your cummings build thread and I am really excited to see that complete it sounds like it is going to be bad ass.


Thanks man! I will be following yours as well. Trucks FTW!


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Ya it does not get much better then a truck!


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