# Help needed - Head Unit not getting power/working



## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Good evening

I hope you are well. I need some assistance please with my head unit in my card, a Ford Mondeo 2009 TDCI.

Recently the factory installed cd6000 started switching off, aux not working , so as it was on its way out I thought I'd change it and get an upgrade.

However I am having even bigger issues with my Android Head Unit now. When it's plugged in it drains all my battery but this doesn't always work either and switch on.

I read somewhere that cutting the permanent live is a good way of stopping the drain but I'm also worried about it not switching on all the time so think there is more to it.

Yesterday I took a multimeter to the power pins to see what is coming through. I was unable to take the pins out of the quadlock but was able to take measurements which are below.

Pin 9 - 3.4V (engine on) - 0V when off
Pin 10 - 0V on or off
Pin 11 - 0V on or off
Pin 12 - 0V on or off

Pin 13 - 0.68 (engine on) - 0.6 engine off
Pin 14 - No cable
Pin 15 - 0V
Pin 16 No cable

The above don't really seem right to me, would I get different readings if I took the pins out and ensured I had a proper connection with the probes?

I have never really had anything to do with changing/checking audio so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

If anybody needs any photos or for me to check anything happy to do this and upload for help.

Thank you,
Philip

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## blammo585 (Feb 1, 2020)

PNotts said:


> Good evening
> 
> I hope you are well. I need some assistance please with my head unit in my card, a Ford Mondeo 2009 TDCI.
> 
> ...


Make sure the red and yellow wires of your new head unit are not wired up backwards.


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## F150Man (Apr 14, 2017)

Red to accessory power (switched)
Yellow to battery (not switched)


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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

All I'm saying is getting a Vasectomy is a good idea.


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Thank you for your responses. Appears I don't have a red ACC cable in the harness which would go into pin 16. 

I've also uploaded the diagram from the new head unit,it appears to match the original one.

The low voltages were because of a blown fuse,the brown/red now shows 12.66V which is normal but obviously I don't want it draining the battery.

Funnily enough although it's plugged in to the permanent live the radio is still not working without the key in the ignition.

If I switched that to pin 16 would that work?
















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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

give me a sec and I'll go look it up .. 
Ford Mondeo 2009 TDCI. RIght? let me see what I can come up with and possibly why you're missing a wire.
on the top of my head, I don't think that's possible unless somebody else was in there before you but you said your old system worked before you put in this new one so I'm pretty sure it's a wire color mismatch. But let me go look it up and when I get around to it I'll post it up here just give me about an hour or so I'm supposed to go to bed soon but you know how it is..... 
BRB


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

imickey503 said:


> give me a sec and I'll go look it up ..
> Ford Mondeo 2009 TDCI. RIght? let me see what I can come up with and possibly why you're missing a wire.
> on the top of my head, I don't think that's possible unless somebody else was in there before you but you said your old system worked before you put in this new one so I'm pretty sure it's a wire color mismatch. But let me go look it up and when I get around to it I'll post it up here just give me about an hour or so I'm supposed to go to bed soon but you know how it is.....
> BRB


 thank you,no rush if it's bed time.

Yeah previous one worked fine until recently when it would just switch off by itself and Aux cable wouldn't work and switch over to radio automatically.

The above being one of the reasons I bought the new unit as I thought the other was on the way out.

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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

can you upload me a manual or a link to that actual deck please because I think your solution may be something as simple as a dip switch setting


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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

PNotts said:


> it would just switch off by itself


also please show us the harness that you're using, you see it may not even be like you got the wiring wrong, it may just be that the harness that comes with these Chinese units well they're not really of the best quality and sometimes the pins fall out and lose contact on the inside of the head unit and that can cause some issues.


I'm working on it and I'm pretty sure we're going to solve this today but that's if I stay awake or not but anyway I'll get back to you in a little bit but please post a manual and don't cut your factory wires. I repeat don't cut your factory wires.


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

So here's a screenshot from the eBay listing. I have a camera but not installed it yet. 

And the photo of the back of the unit,all dios are down as adviced.

The harness is the cars one which was plugged in to the original unit,didn't come with the new

This is the unit









Android 10.0 Car Stereo DAB+ Sat Nav Bluetooth Ford Mondeo Focus S/C-Max Galaxy | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Car Stereo DAB+ Sat Nav Bluetooth Ford Mondeo Focus S/C-Max Galaxy at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!



www.ebay.co.uk




unit.























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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

imickey503 said:


> also please show us the harness that you're using, you see it may not even be like you got the wiring wrong, it may just be that the harness that comes with these Chinese units well they're not really of the best quality and sometimes the pins fall out and lose contact on the inside of the head unit and that can cause some issues.
> 
> 
> I'm working on it and I'm pretty sure we're going to solve this today but that's if I stay awake or not but anyway I'll get back to you in a little bit but please post a manual and don't cut your factory wires. I repeat don't cut your factory wires.


Don't worry about the wires, definitely won't cut anything.

Thank you for your help,I really appreciate it.if we sort this out I'll owe you a few postlockdown beers 

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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Just measured the voltage again.

At 16:48 it was 12.62V (dip off)
At 18:48 it was 12.43V (dip off)

I've not switched the dip on and will measure it in a couple hours again to see what it's at.

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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

give me about an hour as I need to go and go over the wiring diagram of your car and what this unit has. It looks like it just plugs into the damn thing straight from what I'm seeing in the photos!  * you lucky bastard! *

well that rules out one problem. BRB..


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Comes with this as well but except for the reverse port and power cable I would have thought it doesn't need wiring up
















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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

...... You Wut? 

Either I just got trolled.... Hard.. Or...

I can't Find a Manual on Xtron. But.. I'm still looking the forums and seeing how others hooked theirs up. But yea dude. * I don't think its optional. *


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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

Okay.. So even though you have Can Bus this is still listed in the XTRON site. 
So.. What does your Manual say? I can't even FIND anything that has to do with FORD specific installation. 



https://xtrons.com/community/index.php/how-to-guides/












And the MANUAL section is only about ising the OS. Nothing about install or wire diagram. 


But it did say this. 









So Yea... *I'm PRETTY sure those wires need to be hooked up as stated. 

Here is the LINK to the guide that speaks about it.


http://xtrons.com/community/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Indash-stereo-installation-guide.pdf




More proof it needs to be hooked up. 











This is from a VW, But Xtrons talks about the Battery drain issue if you don't hook up certian cables. VIdeo *
Starts at about 2:29


*



*


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

imickey503 said:


> ...... You Wut?
> 
> Either I just got trolled.... Hard.. Or...
> 
> I can't Find a Manual on Xtron. But.. I'm still looking the forums and seeing how others hooked theirs up. But yea dude. * I don't think its optional. *


No honestly no trolling here fella,genuinely need help.

The manual says that is for a non canbus system which doesn't have a quadlock so needs the extra wiring. With it being Chinese electronics though it crossed my mind that maybe the info isn't full. But from what it says it should just be plug n plan with the car harness.

It's an Erisin head unit,I've had a look but it says nothing about that part of the wiring except for the reverse camera needed to be connected.

The other wires I think you have to add connectors and then crimp together with car cables,if they didn't have the quadlock.

The voltage at 20:48 had dropped to 12.32V with the dip in the on position,so half the loss then when it's in the off position but still too much as by calculations tomorrow morning at 9 it will be about 11.6V.




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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

imickey503 said:


> Okay.. So even though you have Can Bus this is still listed in the XTRON site.
> So.. What does your Manual say? I can't even FIND anything that has to do with FORD specific installation.
> 
> 
> ...


Cheers for that,the manual is rubbish,it only shows how to actually use the radio but nothing about wiring it up.

I've had a quick look at that video,will watch it properly,but one thing I noticed is the original radio is a quadlock and the new one isn't so needed an adapter,would that make a difference as to why the cables needed to be connectes as they had the plugs on the end as well which the cables I've had doesn't.

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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Here's an example of the Erisin equivalent with them connectors which don't need to be connected,it's a different set up though.









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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

Lastly, this is something realting to the Canbus issue here. 


Canbus Issue - PUMPKIN CAR STEREO SUPPORT CENTER













Something about the CAnbus being a diffrent moudule to make it work right.


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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

At this point? I would connect those other wires. Some what is says is #8 being the power wires in the diagram 




























TO check current draw? And not just a weak battery. Anything over 100MA is high. on standby. But these units on average? Some say 4mA.. But others report much higher in the 400-900mA range. Add maybe a Phone charger, and other stuff and that's like... 2 amp hour of Draw. That's enough to make your battery go flat. 










So... Again, this is a PUMKIN unit, but on the inside, most of them are the same logic. So.. These units will drain your battery in less then 4 days? Geez... That thing sucks more power then my 700W INVERTER on stanby! 


Anyways bro... I think I have to Tag out. 
Maybe the other PEOPLE can help...










Late...


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## F150Man (Apr 14, 2017)

Looks like 14 is battery and 16 is accessory.


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

Thank you all for your responses

So at 8:48 this morning voltage had dropped to 11.96V (I'd calculated it about 11.6V based on previous dropped voltage from last night)

I thought I'd try removing the yellow cable pin and see if that does anything,I accidentally pulled the wire out of the pin in the process which I can sort later.

Radio still works fine so going to leave that a couple of hours and go and check how much it's dropped.

Hopefully as per previous comment if that's Live then it shouldn't drain the battery at all as it would only work when engine is on.



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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

F150Man said:


> Looks like 14 is battery and 16 is accessory.


Wouldn't the battery wire be thicker then accessory? Hoping your right by the way as hopefully this will solve any issues.

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## F150Man (Apr 14, 2017)

PNotts said:


> Wouldn't the battery wire be thicker then accessory? Hoping your right by the way as hopefully this will solve any issues.
> 
> Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

















Says so right there in black and white. 14-B+, 16-acc


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## PNotts (May 3, 2020)

F150Man said:


> View attachment 268066
> View attachment 268066
> 
> Says so right there in black and white. 14-B+, 16-acc


Sorry for late reply,been quite busy and this took a step back.

Problem is there was no cable 16 in the original harness.

There was only 12 (which was a yellow wire) and 14 which is the thicker Live wire which I was querying.

I want to run an extra wire from the fuse box piggybacking it on to the ignition which I can add as a cable at 16, and then cut the live wire (14),that would work wouldn't it?

I have tried everything to get cable 14 out of the quadlock to see what connector I need for the harness but it's not budging,would the connector just be a female 2.8mm non insulated spade that I'd need for an ACC wire?

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## imickey503 (Dec 16, 2015)

Just a thought here, but have you checked to see battery parasitic draw before and after the installation? Like with the radio out of the car, and not hooked up, did you check the battery under the same test conditions? 

Lets assume the wiring is all correct. And the real problem is that this head units WiFi, is left on. Or it needs and update so it can fall asleep? These are all things that can be an issue. 

Lastly, it may just be a faulty unit. You have to take that into account, or just the plain fact that this unit just sucks power or your battery is simply tired. You said it went low or flat before right? Chances are the battery could be sulfate'ed, so a Full charge on an Old Skool "Dummy Charger" may help bring the plates back. 

I would start at the source that the simple point, and that would be the battery if you know you have done all you can do with the wiring issue. 

That battery voltage is common of tired Lead acid Cells. Or a cell going bad. It may be as simple as adding water, and doing a 24 hour charge and reversing the calcification of the plates. 

I'm not saying give up. But if it comes down to the unit that you purchased being just a power sucker? You can always put in another battery, or simply add one of those dash solar panels as a Band aid. 


I don't care what battery you got. Getting a FLoat charger and letting it every once in a while getting up to 16v in your system is going to be beneficial for the lead acid style batteries. 

There is a Dude BB something that does Ham Radio Builds. He has folks replacing their batteries every year. I was in that boat too till I realized what I was doing wrong. Almost threw away a $450 AGM battery that was less then a few years old. Now? Its doing UPS duty just sitting there pretty. Hell, that's how I bring back many batteries that have EXTREME sulfation of the plates. After about a Month, they are almost 90% there with some time on a Dumb charger, and some High current pulses, they are back to service again. 

I know this is a BIT out of the comfort zone of most people. But its something that might have to be done before pointing the issue to the unit. 


There is also one more Snafu. CAN-BUS in order to talk to it, they often use a FAKE CHIP. Well. A Hacked chip. So.. This can cause stuff like your ECU never really going into sleep mode etc. 


Like I said. Its not for the Faint of heart when working with new automotive systems and swaping in parts. Sometimes, they just flat do not work. 

I don't want to discourage you, but. If the OEM deck did not do this? Then there is your problem. And I doubt anything you do is going to fix the units power draw unless the guys who built it seem to do an update or take a look into maybe a frailty in the unit. 

Wish I was more help. But that's all I can really offer. 

*As a Footnote*, _ the Guys as XDA have has a WAR with some of the China Head Unit makers. They use their code, and just copy and paste it in. And then they hide the fact that they used it. Not only that, when it came time to share bacK, they call it "Proprietary" 

So.. SOME of the little issues that you may be getting are kind of stuck there. Why? Well. Lets just say its a Fun Easter egg that some of the XDA and Android Authority Devs might have ... Oh.. Forgot about fixing... If you get my drift? _


Remember, Much of what is developed there is just a copy and mish mash of what others put in. That's why at times, things seem to be broken, when they should not be, and they can never fix it. Hence why you could get Tablets with great hardware, but they would run slower then cold honey. 

So just be aware of that. 

If you can't get it to Chooch? Time to move on to better things. No use trying to fix Foobar.


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