# Bi amp speakers, what would I gain-loose?



## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

I been reading about the speakers that I have and it seems that they can be bi amp using the passive crossover that came with the speaker set.
I'm talking about JL xr650csi comp speaker, don't know what I would gain or if it is a good idea at all.
I have an Alpine mrp f600 amp that I'm using with this speakers.
I do have some rear speakers that I'm going to pull out and not use any speaker in that location, just the sub.

Would it be good idea?


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

You gain the ability to control the individual level of each speaker. If you are using an external DSP you can also input separate channels for each speaker, so you can EQ things a bit more easily within the DSP.

If you are using that amp bridged to power the JLs you will loose quite a bit of power going to a bi-amped setup. The total power on music is probably around a 90/10 split between the mids/tweeters, so if you're running at 300w per side that's 270w per mid and 30w per tweeter. If you bi-amp you'll get 100w to each speaker, but you won't be able to use nearly that amount to the tweets so it's a bit of a waste, and the power available for the mids will drop quite a lot. This might not be much of an issue if the power is sufficient to drive the speakers to their limit either way, but it's something to consider.

You will also have to run a second set of speaker wires front the amp to the crossover.

Personally, if I didn't have an external DSP and was planning to (or needed to) keep the crossovers in place I wouldn't worry about bi-amping. If you have a DSP there's no point in bi-amping through the crossover - just use the DSP as a crossover and get rid of the passives completely. It's your call, but you might want to just try it out first with a quick run of speaker wire down each side of the car over the carpet before you actually install it and go through the effort to set it up permanently.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Great advice ^^^^^


Also OP, you might find a lot of good food for thought in this thread:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum.../373906-question-amplifier-bridging-ohms.html


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

It's a good setup if you have a four channel amp to run to the bi-amped component set, but do not have a DSP. It isn't fully appreciated without separate gains per channel. A lot of amps will only have 2 gains for the 4 amp channels. If your 4 channel amp did in fact have a gain per channel then it would help a lot in level matching the tweeters, which is the first realization in having control over individual drivers, IMO.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Looks like the Alpine MRP F600 has just F/R gain control (not a gain for each channel). http://media.datatail.com/docs/manual/27830_en.pdf


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Let's separate Bi or tri-amping from a DSP.
And it started that way before a DSP.

The majority of the energy is under 500-Hz, and hardly any energy (15%) is left beyond 3kHz.
So one gains in that different amps can be used for different speakers, and the woofer is not always causing the tweeters to clip.

If the speakers you have can be biamped, then maybe it is worthwhile to try it both ways?


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Thanks guys for the help.
I was on YouTube yesterday night and reading a few adds about this speakers and some people praising that they had bi amped this speakers and how it made such a difference, but seems that I don't need to do that.

Thanks again.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Westye said:


> Thanks guys for the help.
> I was on YouTube yesterday night and reading a few adds about this speakers and some people praising that they had bi amped this speakers and how it made such a difference, but seems that I don't need to do that.
> 
> Thanks again.


How do you know?

You either need to do it with and with out and listen to it... or use an oscilloscope, or ?

If you are pushing it then it would likely be more worthwhile to biamp it.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Holmz said:


> How do you know?
> 
> You either need to do it with and with out and listen to it... or use an oscilloscope, or ?
> 
> If you are pushing it then it would likely be more worthwhile to biamp it.


Very true, have to try it and hear if I like it or not.

Question is how to do it.
I know I need to run one speaker wire from amp to crossovers for the tweeters, got that part but on the amp side?
If you have a link on how to do it I would appreciate it.
For me, it seems to run each speaker wire from 4 channel amp to speakers and tweeters but not sure if left right or what.

Want to give it a shot this weekend and that new wire would help me if I decide to get the DSP, would work either way as I need new wire to feed them


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Westye said:


> Very true, have to try it and hear if I like it or not.
> 
> Question is how to do it.
> I know I need to run one speaker wire from amp to crossovers for the tweeters, got that part but on the amp side?
> ...


NC must be the hotbed of activity. (I am even here at the moment.)

The crossovers either have a single pair of inputs (+/-) or they have two (+/-) sets for the high and the low... then on the output side they have pairs of high (tweeter) and low (mid or woofer) +/-.

I started out having a set of electronic cross overs, but leaning towards a DSP. We will see.

So I think we need to start with how the passive crossovers look. Do they have a single input (which may have a bridge) or two sets of inputs?

Now whether you need/want a DSP is totally separate from the amps and speakers. Having headroom and low distortion etc is the amps and speakers.
The DSP or headunit, gives EQ and time alignment.
If it is for a vehicle with multiple passengers then TA will be for a single person... and that is separate from the amps and speakers unless one is using the DSP for the active cross over (which is common, but not the only way).

So IMO a DSP is not required, but may be nice... and is generally a separate issue from having decent amps, speakers and wiring.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Westye said:


> Very true, have to try it and hear if I like it or not.
> 
> Question is how to do it.
> I know I need to run one speaker wire from amp to crossovers for the tweeters, got that part but on the amp side?
> ...


Assuming I understand your question, simply connect amp's front L/R speaker outputs to the corresponding (L/R) tweeter inputs of the crossovers, and connect the amp's rear L/R speaker outputs to the corresponding midbass inputs of the crossovers.


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## TomT (May 19, 2005)

A previous post said that the amp has a single gain control for each pair of channels (front/rear). I’d suggest using the amp channels with the gain control to a single type of speaker. 

Ignore any Left or Right markings on the amp (if there are any) and run the front pair of channels to your tweeters and the rear pair to your midbasses. That gives you separate gain controls for each.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

From the instruction manual


And the HU is excelon kdc-x501paired with the Alpine mrp-f600.
I do have an JL g1300 amp and a 12" sub
Would be great to know if a future DSP is needed or not with this set up.
I have some Audison Voce on it's way, to replace this JL speakers


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

A DSP will do far more than any crossover can, so whether or not a DSP is "needed" is completely up to you and how satisfied you are after bi-amping your components. The crossover can bi-amp which allows you to send a different signal to each speaker, this gives more tuning options than a traditional passive crossover, but still far fewer options than a DSP.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

TomT said:


> A previous post said that the amp has a single gain control for each pair of channels (front/rear). I’d suggest using the amp channels with the gain control to a single type of speaker.
> *
> Ignore any Left or Right markings on the amp (if there are any)* and run the front pair of channels to your tweeters and the rear pair to your midbasses. That gives you separate gain controls for each.


Why ignore any L/R markings on the amp?


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## TomT (May 19, 2005)

Grinder said:


> Why ignore any L/R markings on the amp?


I started to write out my reasoning and then realized I’m an idiot. LOL

Fronts to tweeters, Rears to midbass.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

TomT said:


> I started to write out my reasoning and then realized I’m an idiot. LOL
> 
> Fronts to tweeters, Rears to midbass.


Welcome to the club!


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

LOL

Sounds like a plan.

BUT, on the HU settings, what parameters would I enter ?
I have speakers size for front, then tweeter [small, middle or large] then rear size, then X'over settings, for tweeter that includes Frq, gain left and right, then same X'over front-hpf frq, then front hpf slope, front hpf gain and same values for rear.

And as for Eq, would it be the same? Leave it in the way I have it?

I haven't play with DTA yet


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Anyone?

Should I leave the same settings?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Holmz said:


> NC must be the hotbed of activity. (I am even here at the moment.)
> 
> The crossovers either have a single pair of inputs (+/-) or they have two (+/-) sets for the high and the low... then on the output side they have pairs of high (tweeter) and low (mid or woofer) +/-.
> 
> ...


My wife is driving thru the carolinas today on her way to florida and has proclaimed it the worst place on the planet based on the ridiculous traffic. 3 hours to go 40 miles...wtf?


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> My wife is driving thru the carolinas today on her way to florida and has proclaimed it the worst place on the planet based on the ridiculous traffic. 3 hours to go 40 miles...wtf?


And we haven’t see any snow yet, 1/2 an inch of snow is chaotic.
I guess it has to be the drinking water, I don’t know. 
People gets in panic mode for nothing.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> My wife is driving thru the carolinas today on her way to florida and has proclaimed it the worst place on the planet based on the ridiculous traffic. 3 hours to go 40 miles...wtf?


She need some ohms... not the volt meter ones, just the Buddhist ones.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Westye said:


> LOL
> 
> Sounds like a plan.
> 
> ...


http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...cussion/116055-list-useful-diyma-threads.html


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

gijoe said:


> A DSP will do far more than any crossover can, so whether or not a DSP is "needed" is completely up to you and how satisfied you are after bi-amping your components. The crossover can bi-amp which allows you to send a different signal to each speaker, this gives more tuning options than a traditional passive crossover, but still far fewer options than a DSP.


Yeah, yeah... I am not trying to say he does not need a DSP...
Just saying that the old school active cross overs like the nakamichi ec302s can cross over, and if one has a head unit with 20+ bands of EQ, and it is a 2-person tune... then he/she consider that (s)he may not need a DSP.

I am pretty certain I will run a DSP, but people looking at options, like speakers collocated, were "old school ways" of obviating issues that a DSP cures... so those solutions are worth eyeing up, and they work with or without a DSP and cure rainbowin, etc.


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## maybebigfootisblurr (Nov 4, 2011)

Westye said:


> Anyone?
> 
> Should I leave the same settings?


The settings "small/med/large" likely control crossover frequency...this is what your passive network is doing. If you must choose, go "Large". This should give you the lowest freq cutoff, and hopefully one that is below that of the passive crossover. Play around; see what sounds best to you.


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## maybebigfootisblurr (Nov 4, 2011)

Westye said:


> LOL
> 
> Sounds like a plan.
> 
> ...


These settings give you active control, which would eliminate your passive crossover.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

I played with DTA settings today.
How in hell do they do it?
I can hear the voice inside my head, in the middle! Bass on my left.... then the sub out of nowhere, but I feel it.
Piano on my left side, how is that possible?

WOW!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Westye said:


> I played with DTA settings today.
> How in hell do they do it?
> I can hear the voice inside my head, in the middle! Bass on my left.... then the sub out of nowhere, but I feel it.
> Piano on my left side, how is that possible?
> ...


It's basic stereo that almost every song has been recorded in for the last several decades, you've just never paid attention, haha. What a great car stereo can do with regard to sound quality, a budget set of speakers or headphones can do easily.

This entire site is dedicated to a group of people who will spend all of their time and money trying to accomplish something in our cars that can be done at home very cheaply and easily.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

gijoe said:


> It's basic stereo that almost every song has been recorded in for the last several decades, you've just never paid attention, haha. What a great car stereo can do with regard to sound quality, a budget set of speakers or headphones can do easily.
> 
> This entire site is dedicated to a group of people who will spend all of their time and money trying to accomplish something in our cars that can be done at home very cheaply and easily.


It changed everything !
I can hear something new that was hiding before, the voice, the drums, the piano, even moving from one side to the other, LOL

A kid with a new toy! Oh well....
Well worth the time to seal the doors and the $ on the equipment and more?

Wife looks at me and doesn't get it...

Can it get better with a DSP?

Speakers came back to life.....
Spend 2 hours sitting in the car listening old songs.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Westye said:


> It changed everything !
> I can hear something new that was hiding before, the voice, the drums, the piano, even moving from one side to the other, LOL
> 
> A kid with a new toy! Oh well....
> ...


What does you system consist of now?

Stereo (in most recordings) places the lead vocals in the center of the stage and the other instruments will be to the left or right of that. The center is created by recording the vocals (or whatever sound the artist chooses to have in the center) equally in the left and right channels. If you sit dead center between the speakers, you'll have a great stage, but you lose this when you move around. In a car, you never sit physically in the middle, so you use TA to recreate the illusion by delaying the close speakers so that the sound arrives at the same time as the furthest speaker.

We locate high frequencies mostly by amplitude, so we hear where the sound is coming from by which speaker is playing it louder. A car is a terrible environment and wrecks the sound that was intentionally recorded, causing sounds to move left to right when they should stay in a specific place within the stage. We use independent EQ on the left and right so that we can fix what the car does to the sound, and make both the left and right sound the same as they are supposed to. When we get the left and right the same, the instruments stay where they are supposed to and don't wander. 

We locate lower frequencies with timing, whichever arrives to our ears first is where we hear the source coming from. This is where TA comes in. We know how quickly sound travels in air, so we measure how far the speakers are from our head, and delay the closest speakers by a number that is based on the furthest speaker from us, causing all sound to arrive simultaneously. 

Getting these two things right will improve the stereo effect in a car significantly. It's a lot of work to make the car sound the same as simply sitting between some decent speakers, or putting on headphones, but again, the car is a stupid place for a stereo, so it takes a lot of fixing to get the response we're looking for. 

You cannot really accomplish this effect to it's fullest without TA for each speaker and EQ for each side (or even each speaker). 

So, "can it get better with DSP?" Yes, a lot better.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Yeah I kinda lost the thread too.

So you biamped.
Then some TA with the head unit and it became good?

I am not sure if your earlier talk of hearing new things in the music was from the bi amping alone, or with the TA added?

Sounds like if it is good, then maybe it is time to stop fixing it.
(at least until next year)


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Xcelon kdc x501, alpine mrp f600, JL xr650csi comp speakers, JL g1300 amp with 12" JL sub.

No wonder it sounds great now after playing just with DTA.

I haven't feed the tweeters with a new wire, been so cold and windy, I may try that today in the garage, but still cold in there.
20 minutes at the most would take me to do that, will post the results 

I have a lot to learn about this hobby.

Thanks guys for your help, been very constructive.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Westye said:


> Xcelon kdc x501, alpine mrp f600, JL xr650csi comp speakers, JL g1300 amp with 12" JL sub.
> 
> No wonder it sounds great now after playing just with DTA.
> 
> ...


Well I was going to "have a go" on your manliness with respect to the cold... but the drive to the shoppes on the black ice in NC this afternoon was pretty exciting. The truck was sideways a few times with the drift action, and the old man was pretty amused saying, "that is exciting"... I said, "I usually did drifting as teen in your cars when you did not know I was doing it"...

Whether using F or C it is not exactly warm here.

just enjoy it for a bit... I would not change anything till next year.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Got a chance to run new speaker wire for the tweeters, made the configuration in passive crossover, didn't like it, maybe some tuning needed on my part.
Went back as before, it sounds good now, as before. 

Thanks guys.

Not as cold as yesterday but still


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

A question,
I had the rear and the front speakers connected to the amp (rear speakers were very low on gain, barely heard them), after running new wire for the tweeters and didn’t like it how it sounded, I decided to just run the front speakers and disconnected the rear speakers, but now I had to increase the gain on the amp to have same volume as before, is this how it works?
Before the gain was at the middle and now it’s a 3/4 of travel.
It sounds great, but just curious.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Westye said:


> A question,
> I had the rear and the front speakers connected to the amp (rear speakers were very low on gain, barely heard them), after running new wire for the tweeters and didn’t like it how it sounded, I decided to just run the front speakers and disconnected the rear speakers, but now I had to increase the gain on the amp to have same volume as before, is this how it works?
> Before the gain was at the middle and now it’s a 3/4 of travel.
> It sounds great, but just curious.


If I'm not mistaken, you've got a 4-channel amp, and I don't see how you're running the front tweeters on their own wires (presumably on the amp's front channels) while running the rear speakers (when the front midbasses ought to be connected by themselves to the amp's rear channels, leaving nowhere to connect the rear speakers).

Unless I'm missing something, it seems that you've mistakenly connected the rear speakers to the amp's rear channels, in parallel with the front midbasses, which would halve their nominal impedance (presumably from 4 ohms to 2 ohms); and when you disconnected the rear speakers, the nominal impedance on those rear channels was doubled (presumably from 2 ohms to 4 ohms), which would explain your gain setting/volume conundrum.

In any case, as long as you are bi-amping your front components with this amp (meaning front tweeters on front channels, and front midbasses on rear channels), you should not in any way connect your rear speakers to this amp.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

I should be more specific.

I’m using the passive speakers crossover, i didn’t like how it sounded when I bi amped this speakers and went back as before, I disconnected just the rear speakers and hook up the one single (2) speaker wire to each crossover, after this I needed to raise the amp gain to hear it as loud as before.

I disconnected the rear speakers when I did run the bi amp test, it’s been like that since.

Tweeter and mid are feed by passive crossover and wire hocked to front speaker ports of amp


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## MikeS (May 23, 2015)

Did you have the fader, gains, speaker size/crossover, TA/speaker levels in DTA menu set to same for rear/fronts? It should sound very similar. From there you can try add bit of extra delay for tweeters (10-30cm, when theres more bass leave there) and set individual delays. 

For better sound quality also try turning off the kenwood sound "enchancers" and sound retrievers if you have not yet tried. I had an older kenwood deck and those did no good to sound and were enabled by default.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Westye said:


> I should be more specific.
> 
> I’m using the passive speakers crossover, i didn’t like how it sounded when I bi amped this speakers and went back as before, I disconnected just the rear speakers and hook up the one single (2) speaker wire to each crossover, after this I needed to raise the amp gain to hear it as loud as before.
> 
> ...


I'm confused... weren't you planning to bi-amp the fronts via their passives?

To clarify, are you saying that you've tried bi-amping the fronts, *both with and without* the passives? 

...and having not liked the sound of the fronts bi-amped without the passives, you're now running the passives in 2-channel mode (not bi-amped)?

Why not bi-amp the fronts via the passives - or did you not like the sound of that either (or are your front passives not bi-ampable?)?


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Grinder said:


> I'm confused... weren't you planning to bi-amp the fronts via their passives?
> 
> To clarify, are you saying that you've tried bi-amping the fronts, *both with and without* the passives?
> 
> ...


Yes, tried that didn’t like it, maybe it was me, needed more tuning or change the frequencies, I don’t know. Sounded different.

Didn’t try without the passives, not sure if I can do that with this speakers.

And I went back to “normal mode”, not bi-amped and using passives and using front channels from amp.

I have some settings on the HU that I don’t know where should I set it, example, speaker size (front), frequency and so on, this is for front where I used for tweeters, for rears it was easy.... then cold and windy and now freezing here in NC. 

You saying that I can not use passive for mids and run them straight from amp?
I have some filter/caps? for the tweeters if I want to run them straight from amp, but not sure about the mids.


@ Mikes,
I will try that, I guess I played with those settings before the bi-amp adventure and it helped a lot.
But will try what you just suggested


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Westye said:


> Yes, tried that didn’t like it, maybe it was me, needed more tuning or change the frequencies, I don’t know. Sounded different.
> 
> Didn’t try without the passives, not sure if I can do that with this speakers.
> 
> ...


I see. Thank you for clearing that up.

Sorry I can't be of more help, but I'm not at all well versed in tuning and fancy HU stuff.




Westye said:


> You saying that I can not use passive for mids and run them straight from amp?
> I have some filters for the tweeters if I want to run them straight from amp, but not sure about the mids...


No. I really don't know if you could/should do that or not. Hopefully others more knowledgeable than me will chime in.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

...While I see that your HU does seem to have a few generic HPF settings for tweeters (1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz - with no slope adjustment), I think you'll be a lot better off with the passives.

And anyway, since your HU doesn't have bandpass capability (i.e. both LPF and HPF simultaneously, rather than either LPF or HPF) you could only either low pass or high pass your midbass (whereas you would need both - LPF to limit the highs, and HPF to limit the lows) in the absence of your passives.

So, without an external DSP, you should not run your fronts without the passives.

FIXED


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Grinder said:


> ...While I see that your HU does seem to have a few generic HPF settings for tweeters (1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz - with no slope adjustment), I think you'll be a lot better off with the passives.
> 
> And anyway, since your HU doesn't have bandpass capability (i.e. both LPF and HPF simultaneously, rather than either LPF or HPF) you could only either low pass or high pass your midbass (whereas you would need both - LPF to limit the highs, and HPF to limit the lows) in the absence of your passives.
> 
> So, without an external DSP, you should not bi-amp your fronts without the passives.


I think some of the terminology is causing the confusion.

The term "bi-amp" is only used when talking about passive crossovers that can accept 2 inputs. The term bi-amp is not used when talking about an active system. So, OP you will have the most flexibility by bi-amping your components, but that means you'll need to balance both signals that go into the passive crossovers. This means a little more work, and more time, but ultimately it means you'll have the potential to fine tune the sound more than just sending one input to the crossovers.

To avoid confusion, don't use the term bi-amp unless you're talking about passive crossovers.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

gijoe said:


> I think some of the terminology is causing the confusion.
> 
> The term "bi-amp" is only used when talking about passive crossovers that can accept 2 inputs. The term bi-amp is not used when talking about an active system. So, OP you will have the most flexibility by bi-amping your components, but that means you'll need to balance both signals that go into the passive crossovers. This means a little more work, and more time, but ultimately it means you'll have the potential to fine tune the sound more than just sending one input to the crossovers.
> 
> To avoid confusion, don't use the term bi-amp unless you're talking about passive crossovers.


Got it. Thank you! 

I'll try to keep it straight.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

gijoe said:


> I think some of the terminology is causing the confusion.
> 
> The term "bi-amp" is only used when talking about passive crossovers that can accept 2 inputs. The term bi-amp is not used when talking about an active system. So, OP you will have the most flexibility by bi-amping your components, but that means you'll need to balance both signals that go into the passive crossovers. This means a little more work, and more time, but ultimately it means you'll have the potential to fine tune the sound more than just sending one input to the crossovers.
> 
> To avoid confusion, don't use the term bi-amp unless you're talking about passive crossovers.


If you have the time I would appreciate if you post a link or anything to guide me on balancing the signal and how to fine tune the sound.
If I have this comp speakers and if somehow improves the sound, I really want to do it.

But, what about the HU settings that I mentioned before?

If you look up on this post (#26), Kfinch mentions that with the HU settings I can get rid of the passive crossovers and use the HU as active mode.
Is this correct? 
Not saying that kfinch is lying but want to double check that and not burn the tweeters or something else


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## MikeS (May 23, 2015)

Your deck is not active capable, do not connect speakers without crossovers.

Tweeter filter is kenwoods additional EQ for turning overly bright tweeters down if need to. You select the frequency it begins to have effect and then turn tweeters down.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

I been following ya guys advice and sound been improving, tweeters were bright, but after some advice from here (frequency) and Eq settings, it changed a lot.

But if bi-amping speakers sound would improve, want to try that. 


Thanks a lot for your time and patience.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Westye said:


> I been following ya guys advice and sound been improving, tweeters were bright, but after some advice from here (frequency) and Eq settings, it changed a lot.
> 
> But if bi-amping speakers sound would improve, want to try that.
> 
> ...



passve bi-amping...not worth it.

active biamping..do it.


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## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> passve bi-amping...not worth it.
> 
> active biamping..do it.


LOL

I know!

I see that you have the Helix DSP, would it be too difficult for a newbie to set it up?
I'm looking on getting the Helix dsp.2 but I have no idea what I'm getting in to.
I see that there is a serie of videos on YouTube, Josiah buwhalda channel, following that serie of videos would help on setting it up?

I been looking for the minidsp 6×8 or helix.
What else would I need other than the DSP, if I decide on any? The Mic? Or just the DSP? 
Been told to get an used helix but haven't found one.


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