# The 'Path' to SQ



## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Hey Guys,

I thought I would make a log of my stereo install. It all starts with a 99 Nissan Pathfinder and one crazy thought that I could fit 8" and 6" woofers in the front doors. well I've got the speakers, well most of them, I'm just waiting for the wide bands to arrive which should be in the next few days 

So on to the actual gear:

Source: Eclipse CD8053

Processor: Going to use the CD8053 but will probably get a Bit One

Highs: Tang Band w3-1364sa

Mid-range: Dynaudio MW160

Mid-bass: Peerless 830667

High Amp: 2 channels of a Soundstream Rubicon 604

Mid-range Amp: 2 channels of a Soundstream Rubicon 604

Mid-bass Amp: Soundstream Reference 500

I have run into a little problem after I made the trim rings for the 8's and 6's. They both wont fit onto the doors like I want, it looks like I'm going to have to remake the whole door trim, not just make pods for them, but more on that later. Here are some pictures of the trim rings.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Subscribed


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I had some time this morning so I removed the door trims and stripped the backing panel so I can use it to make a template of the trim. I also started to strip the factory wiring for the power window switches that I am relocating to the Din pocket under the headunit, so I can mount the MW160's high on the door card.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

The start of the new door trims.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Got a good day of work into the Pathy. I've sorted out the pinout for the window controls, now i've just got to wire it up. I've also started to sort out where i'm going to out the power window switches. I will be moving the aircon controls to under the headunit and putting the window switches where the air con controls are now. I also stripped the interior and all the old stereo wiring out of the car. I found some worrying rust the under the rear seats and wiring channel down the sill panels, so I will be stripping the carpet out and rust converting and proofing all the rust. 

So on to the pictures


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

More action from this week. I've glassed in a spare Din cradle i had lying around to house the moved power window switches now the fun starts with sanding and bogging it. I also got 100ft of 1/2 inch techflex in the mail today so i spent most of the day playing with that and my rca cables 














































Head unit rca ends










Amp rca ends










2 completed rca's


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## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

Im watching this as I have a 04 Pathfinder. Slighty different, but mostly the same. Certainly want to see what you come up with regarding the midbass in the doors or panels. 

I have one question regading the techflex? I see a lot of people spending a lot of time techflexing cables and rcas, but other than looks does it have any benefit inside a car?


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Jroo said:


> Im watching this as I have a 04 Pathfinder. Slighty different, but mostly the same. Certainly want to see what you come up with regarding the midbass in the doors or panels.
> 
> I have one question regading the techflex? I see a lot of people spending a lot of time techflexing cables and rcas, but other than looks does it have any benefit inside a car?


The techflex is more for wire protection from heat and rubbing, you can get it in different colours so you can colour code your wiring or like me just make the install look alot cleaner.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

its been awhile since my last update and i have been a bit lazy with that, but i have been working on the car. since i last updated i've finished the centre console and power window switch move. run the power cable, rca's and speaker cable all techflexed. started on the front door trims and tomorrow i'll probably start on the false floor in the boot. anyway here are some pictures of the progress.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Got some more work done on the Pathy today. I spent most of the day with my new best friend, the perfect circle, I love that thing. I've also mounted up the wide band rings, now I just have to wait for the foam to arrive before I can finish the A pillars.

The A pillars are 100% on axis for the driver





































I've changed my mind on what I'm doing on the doors. I've decided to mount the peerless and dyn woofers flat with the door trim using spacer rings and using Foam to shape the trims instead of using fleece.

The top hole is for the dyns and the bottom for the peerless, I've also trimmed up the piece of 16mm mdf under the arm rest and i will replace that with some 12mm.










For the spacers I've used 16mm mdf, for the dyns I've had to use 4 rings so that's 64mm worth of spacer. for the peerless I've only used 3 rings as the magnet will go through the factory speaker hole.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

Subbed, i want to see what you end up with for those doors.


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## Datsubishi (Jan 9, 2012)

Looks good. I like the relocation of the switches and console components. One off is always good. Doors are looking nice too. Can't wait to see what else you've got in store.


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## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

I wish my door cars were that simple. Would make life a lot easier. Great start on the build.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Thanks guys, I'm hopping the doors turn out ok being the first time I've made anything like this. I've got to re cut the lower hole to get it more centred with the factory speaker hole.


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## tonny (Dec 4, 2010)

I would make it much easyer for your self and only use the wide range speakers on the 
dashboard and the dynaudio mid basses in the doors, 2 different speakers in 1 door 
can't sound good and the peerless speakers are way to log in sound to keep up with the rest. Or just use the as a subwoofer in a good box that can work! But not in the doors together with the other speakers.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

tonny said:


> I would make it much easyer for your self and only use the wide range speakers on the
> dashboard and the dynaudio mid basses in the doors, 2 different speakers in 1 door
> can't sound good and the peerless speakers are way to log in sound to keep up with the rest. Or just use the as a subwoofer in a good box that can work! But not in the doors together with the other speakers.


Thanks for the advice mate, I'll see how the system sounds with the 8's and 6's sound in the doors. If it doesn't sound right I can always make new door cards for the dyns


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## tonny (Dec 4, 2010)

Oke no problem, if You don't mind rebuilding your car time after time hahahaha


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## fireball (Oct 20, 2009)

Wow, looking good!


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

tonny said:


> Oke no problem, if You don't mind rebuilding your car time after time hahahaha


Lol I probably will mind but it's all experience, next time I should be able to make them twice as good in half the time.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

The speaker spacers are in and it looks like i might have to trim some metal out of the 8" hole. i think the dyn spacer at the top of the door are the perfect height and the arm rest will flow nicely. next up will be to fiberglass the spacers onto the door card to seal and strengthen them. then i can get onto the foaming


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I've started on filling in the void under the arm rest and I've started to design the speaker grills but i will post pics of them soon


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## ebrit003 (Oct 27, 2013)

Those DPs (Door panels - Heehee) Look sick!


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

ebrit003 said:


> Those DPs (Door panels - Heehee) Look sick!


thanks mate, the vision in my head is slowly working its way out.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Nice! 

I suggest breaking up that big flat board where baffles are mounted to with some sort of a line to "lighten up" the look.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Mless5 said:


> Nice!
> 
> I suggest breaking up that big flat board where baffles are mounted to with some sort of a line to "lighten up" the look.


i'm going to use expanding foam and shape from the top of the speaker baffles into the arm rest and down to the edges of the flat board.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

The start of the A pillars is taking shape. god i love foam, makes it so easy to build and shape. i still need to do some shaping and then start the glassing.


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## 49konvict (Mar 18, 2013)

What kind of foam did you use. Much better than stretching cloth over and getting those volcano shapes


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

It's just a 2 part foam. Im not sure on the brand but I'm sure if you had a search around you will find one you could get locally. It's so easy to shape just rough cut with a knife or hack saw blade then shape using 80 grit sand paper


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

subscribed, those door panels will be awesome


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## PsyCLown (May 17, 2013)

Hmm, so how does the foam work compared to stretching cloth over?

You just fill it all with foam, rough cut an then shape, fibre glass and let it cure and then body filler and at some point dig up the rest of the foam and scrap it?


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

PsyCLown said:


> Hmm, so how does the foam work compared to stretching cloth over?
> 
> You just fill it all with foam, rough cut an then shape, fibre glass and let it cure and then body filler and at some point dig up the rest of the foam and scrap it?


i've used cloth before but found it hard and messy to work with and get the shape i wanted, foam is so much easier.

i just built a box out of cardboard and sticky tape around the A pillar to get the foam to expand upwards not outwards. then once it was set i trimmed the foam to the basic shape with the knife and hacksaw blade. then get the nice smooth shape with sand paper. then a few layers of glass, trim out the foam then bog and paint.


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## PsyCLown (May 17, 2013)

bratwurst_boy said:


> i've used cloth before but found it hard and messy to work with and get the shape i wanted, foam is so much easier.
> 
> i just built a box out of cardboard and sticky tape around the A pillar to get the foam to expand upwards not outwards. then once it was set i trimmed the foam to the basic shape with the knife and hacksaw blade. then get the nice smooth shape with sand paper. then a few layers of glass, trim out the foam then bog and paint.


Hmm, I think I should without a doubt try that sometime when I finally start with some fibreglass work.

Never worked with the stuff before, certainly helps to get ideas and see how people do things here on DIYMA!


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

the foam makes a huge ****in mess tho LOL.

between the fact that it will destroy almost anything it touches when wet, and after you start sanding it - there is a find pixie dust of foam crap everywhere.

US Composites has a good 2 part foam. from 2lb desnity all the way up to 16lb density.
Urethane Foam , Expanding Marine Polyurethane Foam

ShawnK used the 4lb foam in his build here;
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...wn-ks-new-system-wifey-09-civic-d-s-love.html

from what he said, its easy to form and shape, and it also is very hard - so you wont dent it easily.


i think that i will be doing this with my next build as well.


how does it hold up to fiberglass resin after its cured and sanded? does it dissolve at all?


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

req said:


> the foam makes a huge ****in mess tho LOL.
> 
> between the fact that it will destroy almost anything it touches when wet, and after you start sanding it - there is a find pixie dust of foam crap everywhere.
> 
> ...


yes it does stick like you know what to a blanket when wet but just be careful, save up a few plastic yoghurt or ice cream containers to mix the 2 parts together as once youve poured it where you need it just throw away the container.

lol dust lots and lots of dust, get a good respirator and an out door location to do the sanding, you could also vacuum the parts your shaping before testing in the car so you dont get the dust in the car like you can see in the pics.

this is the first time ive used the foam and i havent glassed it yet but my boss at work uses it quite a bit and he hasn't had a problem with the foam dissolving from the glass resin


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I've finally gotten to sound deadening the front doors. I used wax and grease remover to clean down all the outer and inner skins and removed all the old tar sealant from the factory waterproofing. I used 1.5 sheets of mat on the outer skin. I put some split tubing around the door lock and handle rods so the sound deadening does stick to it. I also made up some 6mm MDF panels to seal the holes in the door. I sprayed the MDF with spray putty then black paint to seal the wood. After lots of taping I put in the Mdf and did alot more tapingto hold the Mdf in place. Then it was time for the sound deadening. I used 1.5 sheets on the inner skin so its all sealed up and waiting for me to finish door cards.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

I like the way the project is heading a lot. Wish I could have used mdf in my doors to seal them instead of fiberglass. However, why didn't you choose to bolt them in? Does the tape seat that well?


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Deathjunior said:


> I like the way the project is heading a lot. Wish I could have used mdf in my doors to seal them instead of fiberglass. However, why didn't you choose to bolt them in? Does the tape seat that well?


thanks mate, I didn't bolt the mdf in because I simply couldn't. Both pieces had to sit on an angle to fit properly, tape was the only thing I could use to get the angle I needed.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

Ahh I see, thats that same reason I couldn't so I built my panels out of glass chop mat and resin, then deadened them and covered the inside of them in ccf. I bolted them in place with 1/4 hex 1/2 inch deep tex screws and deadened around the panels. Still holding strong


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Deathjunior said:


> Ahh I see, thats that same reason I couldn't so I built my panels out of glass chop mat and resin, then deadened them and covered the inside of them in ccf. I bolted them in place with 1/4 hex 1/2 inch deep tex screws and deadened around the panels. Still holding strong


I'm also going to bolt my doors in, im going to use rivet nuts in the holes where the factory push in plugs are then bolt through the door card


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice woodwork...the doors will weight a ton.....or two


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

LBaudio said:


> nice woodwork...the doors will weight a ton.....or two


thanks mate, yeah they probably will weigh a bit, i hope the door hinges can take the wood and woofer weight.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

wow its been a while finally got some work done today and changed the design of the door pods again.

It starts off with this template.









Then I made 4 copies for the enclosure.









The top of the enclosure is made.









Speakers fit in nicely.









The start of the speaker grills.









Just a few layers.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

If your going to all this trouble with door pods and changing the design why not try and point them more on axis? I understand why perhaps the mid couldn't by why not the woofer? there should be plenty of door.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I was able to get the drivers side arm rest nearly completed today, I just have to get some more ally to complete and passenger side on Monday. Tomorrow I'll start on the accent piece for under the armrest.

The three pieces freshly cut.

















Outside edge round over and inside chamfered.









Then I brushed the ally.


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## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Nice work.
How did you do the brushed approach?


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Kevin K said:


> Nice work.
> How did you do the brushed approach?


I found this on youtube 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVN1fk-quIo


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I got the accent piece made today and I'm quite happy with the way it turned out.










The door layout.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I've been toying around with the placement of the Bit.One and DRC today. I'm not wanting to use the boot as I've got a small horse of a dog to transport around. I also have to find a place to mount the 2 Hertz HDP5.

I used the dremel to gut the top section of the centre console and the Bit one fits in there nicely.



















The DRC also fits nicely where the factory switch panel was, like it was made for it.



















I also moved the mic for the bluetooth to the roof console.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Its been a while since I've posted, I've been slowly working on the build (not as fast as I like)



I pulled the car apart again to redo the window switches and also sound deaden the floor. After taking the carpet out I found a surprise hiding under there.

Some nice dried salt and rust.



























I rust treated and painted the affected areas and laid down some sound deadening.



















I decided to re-wire the window switches and adding in 2 more switches in the rear doors. I know it could probably be done better but its the best I could come up with with my limited knowledge.




























Since I was redoing the switches I had to cut out the mount I made for the previous switches and will have to finish the facia (I have since gotten the extra switch to fill the empty hole).



















I've riveted in the nutserts into the doors so I can now secure the door cards to the car.










Thoughts on the cross hatched insert???? not sure if I like it or not










I had to remake the arm rests as I split one screwing in a nutsert  The new ones are made out of 18mm marine ply. The back plate has 6mm nutserts and using m6x35mm button head bolts with 10g cup washers to sandwich the arm rests together. The arm rests are going to be mounted to the door using m8 bolts through the middle of the arm rest and being spaced out about 25mm with stainless tubing.


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

Wow its been awhile. I've been working to much to do any real work, that was until yesterday when I started holidays :good:

To begin with I have built a sub box to house the 2 Audison Voce 10" subs










Wire termination for woofers inside box, even though it won't be seen it still gets tech flex and boot lace ferrules.




























I used some threaded inserts to secure the sub box to the floor of the boot.










Started on the layout of the amps and processor in the false floor / amp rack.










Temporarily fitted in the car to double check all the clearances. 



















mmmm Sexy


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## bratwurst_boy (Jun 16, 2013)

I had a couple of hours this arvo to get some more work done.

Made a cute little ground lead.



















Started on the DRC install for the second time as I couldn't see it properly in the spot I had it before, I think this is a much better spot.










I also made a little panel for the volt meter.










The overall layout of the gear selector panel.


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

Very nice skills buddy. One of my most favorite parts of car audio is learning new things to do with wood. Love those door panels.


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