# 2006 Toyota Avalon 2-way + Sub install questions



## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Well, my finace is ready to upgrade her 2006 Avalon's standard 9 speaker stereo system. She wants to retain the OEM headunit because there are some issues with the heads-up display screen becoming unusable, when going with an aftermarket HU.

I have looked into LOCs and while I might go with the Navonne 4-CH LOC (for budget reasons), I want the system to have a flat-response (the Navonne unit has a 12dB slope roll off at 80Hz). Right now, my 1st choice will be either AudioControl's LC6 or LC8. Does anyone now if the LC6 or LC8 have transformers for ground noise isolation?

I plan on installing a simple 2-way (6.5" or 7") midrange and 1" tweeters but I do not know any specifics about the factory speaker locations. *I really would like to know the MOUNTING DEPTH of the front door speakers.* If I go active, I will want to use the crossovers on the amplifier, which is still to be determined.

I've got the sub/amp department covered. I am going to give her my eD 130v2 (replacing her 2 - 12" MTX 5512-44) and I will probably use her previous subwoofer amplifier (Autotek 400x - 400 Watts @ 2 ohms). 

*The other questions I have are how do you replace the dash mounted center speaker and where would be the best place to install the LC6/LC8.* I think it would be best closest to the aftermarket amplifiers but the front & rear speakers are in the doors and the amplifier will be in the trunk.

So far here is the system:

OEM to Aftermarket converter: AudioControl LC6 or LC8
Subwoofer: eD 130v2
Subwoofer amplifier: Autotek 400x

2-Way Active Front Choices (~$150 budget) 
1.) AA Poly Mids + Seas 27AFNC/G
2.) Dayton RS180-4 + Seas 27AFNC/G
3.) Seas (CA18RNX, P18REX, G18RNX) + Seas 27AFNC/G
4.) ???
(pending on mounting depth)

2-Way Passive 
1.) Crystal Mobilsound SS
2.) Phoenix Gold RSd 65cs
3.) Old school Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5
4.) ???

Front Stage Amplifiers (~$175 budget)
1.) PPI PC450
2.) JL e4300
3.) ???


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## Preacher (May 8, 2006)

ygpm


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

omarmipi said:


> Well, my finace is ready to upgrade her 2006 Avalon's standard 9 speaker stereo system. She wants to retain the OEM headunit because there are some issues with the heads-up display screen becoming unusable, when going with an aftermarket HU.
> 
> I have looked into LOCs and while I might go with the Navonne 4-CH LOC (for budget reasons), I want the system to have a flat-response (the Navonne unit has a 12dB slope roll off at 80Hz). Right now, my 1st choice will be either AudioControl's LC6 or LC8. Does anyone now if the LC6 or LC8 have transformers for ground noise isolation?
> 
> ...



Check out the JBL MS-8, its not out yet but wayyyyy more advanced then the audiocontrol plus a built in amp and center channel output.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8799
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum//showthread.php?t=63407 


Best way to find out the depth is to look for yourself other then that Crutchfield.com is a pretty good place for direct replacement of speaker specs. Just put your car and they tell you what sizes and models fit. Then look at the specs for those models to get an idea.


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## ws6 beat (Jul 14, 2005)

i'm installing the rs180-4 and seas neo powered by a usa amps xt1600.4. the sub is a 12"tc2+ powered by a pg xenon 400.1. still wiring everything up and need to build a custom box. I'm also using the navonne loc i didnt know it had a crossover, i was already dreading keeping the stock head unit.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Thanks for the tip t3sn4f2. I have already been there though and it look like manufacturers are not making 6-1/2" components deeper then 2-3/4" these days.

I have read about the JBL MS-8 and it does have some nice features but I doubt my fiancé will take advantage of it. 

I would use the Navonne LOC if they also had a LOC dedicated for the sub range < 80 Hz. *Does anyone know of a high quality LOC that doesn't have a built in roll off, for sub duty?*


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

I had the lc6 and it was a great unit. I believe it had the same grounding options as their crossovers and the manuel is on their website to download. It can create a sub output but I didnt use it, just used the front and rear rca outs. Had no problem with noise. You may want the lc8 if you plan to run a center channel.


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## bhg41088 (Nov 5, 2006)

Are you set on the eD sub? If not check out this:
http://www.tcsounds.com/db500.htm


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## Gmack (Jan 29, 2007)

I'm just bought a Navone NE-774V to use the "stock" CD player of my 06' accord in my aftermarket system. It doesn't say anything on the website about a"roll-off at 80hz"? Do you know for sure it does? I copied the description below. 

"
The NE-774V is a competition quality, four-channel OEM to aftermarket stereo adaptor that was designed to connect the speaker level outputs of a factory deck into the pre-amp level inputs of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier. The signal level of the NE-774V can be adjusted from a maximum of 9.5 Volts rms down to zero volts. The NE-774V replaces our previous N-774V and the main difference is in the Plug and Play wiring and connectors. The circuitry is identical to the 2-channel N-7V and N-777. Notice that the signal level adjustment pots are inside the plastic enclosure. Simply squeeze the lid for access to the adjustment pots. Turning the pots clockwise increases the signal level. We recommend leaving the internal pots at the maximum level unless there is a good reason to decrease the level. The NE-774V features full transformer isolation with a maximum useable signal level, and a smooth frequency response -- which means more signal and less noise. The NE-774V includes compensation for both frequency and phase with no loss of bass or treble. The maximum signal level output of the NE-774V is 9.5 Volts per channel. This is an incredible level and amounts to over 4 times the signal level of a typical aftermarket deck with only 2 Volts of signal. The NE-774V is the best LOC (Line Output Converter) in the world."


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## ws6 beat (Jul 14, 2005)

I was wondering the same thing as that would suck. I would assume the dcx-730 could eq


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Navone NE-774V LOC test results

Yeah, the PPI unit can eq the response back flat.

I'm going with the eD 130v2 because it's free (my old sub) and I think they are fairly good subwoofers.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Well, I ending up going with the AudioControl LC6 and hopefully I can just use the factory amplifier for the center channel.

I just found out another good reason to retain the OEM Headunit (it includes SRS logic).

Any help on the installation front? I really need some instructions before trying to remove the door panels.


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## raamaudio (May 4, 2005)

It's a Toyota, door panels are simple to remove, a couple of hidden or not so well hidden screws and pop that baby off to see what you have to work with. The stock speakers are probably riveted on though, aluminum rivets are pretty easy to drill out. 

Rick


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

raamaudio said:


> It's a Toyota, door panels are simple to remove...


Thanks for the advice Rick. I'll let you know how it goes. Her car is currently at the body shop because an Excursion hit her (sucks but she wasn't hurt).

I was on track, working toward an active setup but it dawned on me that her stock 80 amp alternator will have some difficulty with 2 (4x100 Watt) & 1 (1x400 Watt) amplifiers.

SO... I would like some more suggestions for 6-1/2" component sets with the following requirements:

* Midrange mounting depth of less then 3"
* Tweeter flange smaller then 2" diameter (w/ plans to modify it smaller)
* Fairly efficient (90 dB+ @ 4ohms)
* Less then $150 shipped

Some sets that I am considering:
- Phoenix Gold Rds (if I can find them)
- JBL GTO
- Diamond Audio M6 D6, or M5, D3
- Infinity Kappa (green cones)
- Boston Pros 6.2, 6.4, or 6.5
- Boston Rally RC620
- ???

I haven't heard the diamonds, JBL GTOs, or PG Rds though; so if anyone has experience with them, let me know. I will also need 2 component sets because she wants rear fill.


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

My fiance got her car back from the body shop and I decided to take the door panel off. It was super easy. I outlined the steps in this post on the Toyota Nations forum: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1678708#post1678708*
*

Anyone have component suggestions? I would like 2 sets of Boston Pros (only because I use to have a set and know what they sound like). Are there other components out there that have good midbass? She's a bit of a bass-head (if I haven't mentioned that yet). I'm interested in the *Diamond Audio D661*, *DLS* (mid-lines), and *Rainbow* (lower-mid-lines).

The door mounted speaker is definitely limited to a 3" depth with a 1/2" spacer (door panel limited) but the hole is pretty large ~7"x10" oval.


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

Here's what I would do:

Run passive component set (hopefully these fit your requirements) *$250*:
-Pioneer PRS from ebay
-MB Quarts from Ike

Amp - tons of **** on ebay that'll do at least 100x2 for around *$100*
Specifically look at bridging a 4 channel:
-Old PG's, MTX, RF, Xtant, Clarion, Lanzar Opti, Kicker, etc, etc, etc

Deaden the doors!

Then keep the rear speakers running off the OEM setup (if you can - sorry I don't know what the limitations are with a LOC) - use the fader if you have to to keep their distortion down when blasting fronts. Talk her out of rear fill, but if she really must, buy some Kicker KX or similar co-ax speakers for $40 and a cheap 2 channel for under $100.

Screw active in wife/gf's cars IMO. Just more hassle then it's worth.

-aaron


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## tbreihan (Sep 30, 2005)

omarmipi said:


> My fiance got her car back from the body shop and I decided to take the door panel off. It was super easy. I outlined the steps in this post on the Toyota Nations forum: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1678708#post1678708*
> *
> 
> Anyone have component suggestions? I would like 2 sets of Boston Pros (only because I use to have a set and know what they sound like). Are there other components out there that have good midbass? She's a bit of a bass-head (if I haven't mentioned that yet). I'm interested in the *Diamond Audio D661*, *DLS* (mid-lines), and *Rainbow* (lower-mid-lines).
> ...


I am personally not a fan of the Boston Pros because of their somewhat harsh-sounding (to me) metal dome tweeter. Either the Premier PRS or the Alpine Type-X speakers should fit, as will the DLS UP6 2-ways. I have not heard the PRS comps, but between the Alpines and the DLS, the Alpines have a nicer tweeter and the DLS have better (more) midbass.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

I thought my Rainbow SLC 265 had great midbass but they are a little bit more than your initial budget. If you went Rainbow, they also have matching coaxials. I would try to contact 6spdcoupe about those. I was also considering the DLS MS6A components at one time too and also have heard some great thiongs about them as well. I dont think you or soon to be wife would be dissappointed in the Rainbow setup 

but then again....there are those Pioneer PRS components and REV coaxials


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## dBassHz (Nov 2, 2005)

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I really would like to use the speaker budget for only the front comps but the rear passenger space is HUGE. There is more space in the rear then the front. She's also a real estate agent so she will have passengers in the rear often.

Those QSC-216 comps, on Ikesound, look pretty tempting but they went up to $229.00 (there must be an informant on this board). Does anyone know the sensitivity rating for those MB Quarts?

I'm probably going to get the Blaupunkt VA4100 (4X100) to power the front and rear so I want some components that have the potential to get loud off of 100 watts. I also didn't want to exceed 800 watts total amplifier power (VA4100 + Autotek 400x) because of the stock electrical system. I will do the big 3 (2 or 4 gauge) but no plans for a new battery or alternator (stock is 80 amps).


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