# Cheap, adjustable, easily replaceable tweeter pods



## snaimpally

Do you buy tweeters and swap out tweeters regularly? Do you want a way to be able to easily mount tweeters on-axis and make them look nice? Do you want to mount tweeters up on your A-pillars to avoid as many diffracting surfaces as possible?

If you answered yes to any one of these questions, I have just the solution for you!! My friend Glenn (GLN305), has come up with a very inexpensive solution for tweeter mounting that allows for easy swapping out of tweeters, makes it easy to mount tweeters on-axis, provides a certain degree of adjustability, and makes the mounting look nice. Glenn was kind enough to install a pair of Scanspeak Illuminator 2004-6020 tweeters in the A-pillars of my Mazdaspeed 3 and so I took pictures so that I could share his very innovative design with others on the forum.

*Parts*: *(1) 2 x PVC end caps* (find ones that fit your tweeters, the ones in the picture are 1.5" diameter; some tweeters may need bigger end caps), *(2) threaded pipes* (in Home Depot these are called steel nipples. Yes, the jokes about nuts and nipples are endless) these are threaded and used in lamps to thread the power cord through), *(3) hex nuts*, a *(4) a can of bed liner* to create texture, and *(5) optionally, a can of spray paint* in a color that matches your car.


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## snaimpally

Next, sand down any imperfections on the end caps. Then drill a hole at the desired mounting angle where the base and the sides of the end cap meet. These have an approximate 45 degree angle for on-axis mounting.









Spray the end caps with two coats of bedliner. In this picture, Glenn stuck screwdrivers into the holes and then put a wire tie on either side to prevent the end cap from sliding off the end cap so that he could spray paint the end caps and then leave them out to dry. The bedliner provides texture to the end cap. After the bedliner, optionally, spray the caps with a color suited for your car. For example, you can use a can of touch-up paint to match the paint to your car's exterior paint.


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## snaimpally

Thread a threaded pipe into the drilled holes. They look like little ack ack guns. They appear grey in this picture due to the flash but they are in fact black, as you can see in other pictures. Use a grinder or pipe cutter to cut the length of the threaded pipes to slightly more than the thickness of your A-pillars.









Remove the A-pillars in your car, drill a hole in the A-pillars, and then fasten the tweeter pods to the A-pillars by pushing the threaded pipe through the A-pillar and tightening a hex nut on to the threaded pipe. Thread your speaker cable through the threaded pipe and connect to your tweeter. The picture shows that Glenn soldered and put heat shrink around it but you can also use quick connectors.


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## aztec1

This is a really simple and elegant design, I like it a lot. I wish I would have seen this before my tweeter pod debacle.


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## bigrig

Yeah, looks like a good result/effort ratio. Any finalized pics?

Matt


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## snaimpally

Slide the tweeter into the end cap. If the tweeter fits loosely into the end cap, determine what the difference is and wrap some material around the tweeter so that the tweeter fits snugly into the end cap. For example, use some electrical tape around the side of the tweeter (near the top) if there is a very small gap, use velcro if there is a slightly bigger gap, and use weather stripping if the gap is fairly big.

The mounted tweeter looks like this:

















Note that the tweeters can be swiveled if you don't over-tighten the hex nuts.

Total cost was under $20 for both. Total time spent was less than 3 hours. We did it over 2 evenings because it was humid here in Austin and we had to wait for the bed liner to dry.


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## SublimeZ

those look really familiar...


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## dmazyn

The real question is how do the scans sound?


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## boogeyman

looks great very creative


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## SSCustoms

That's thinking outside the box! Well done!!!


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## Pntbtrjly

After looking at about a hundred nearly impossible (for my minimal [read--non-existent] skill level) insyalls on a=pillars, this looks AMAZING. Will be using this in the coming months. Now if it was only this easy for woofers in a 2007 VW GTI...


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## freemind

That is [email protected]!

My tweets may not go in the kicks after all...........................


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## snaimpally

SublimeZ said:


> those look really familiar...


It is a brilliant idea. Simple, functional, and looks good. James (SublimeZ) had his tweeters mounted in the same way and the improvement was dramatic.


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## rockinridgeline

Not bad. Great way to get them mounted without spending a fortune. Necessity is the mother of invention...


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## volker

Awesome idea, thanks for sharing !


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## enigma

Very nice, I will have to try this sometime. My Blaupunk VC100s are too large to flush in the A pillar so this would work nicely. Thanks.


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## snaimpally

enigma said:


> Very nice, I will have to try this sometime. My Blaupunk VC100s are too large to flush in the A pillar so this would work nicely. Thanks.



One of the benefits is that they look nice and provide functionality. Also, you can swap in different size tweeters very easily. For example, I decided against the Morel Piccolos because I was concerned about mounting. With this method, it is very easy to mount even large format tweeters like the Hiquphones very easily.


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## Maddman

nice write-up and simple! well done.


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## shadowfactory

I thought large format tweets were not doable in my car without some fancy glassin, but this is much better/cheaper/easier/awesomer! I am totally doing this when I upgrade my tweets many millennia from now.


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## King Nothing

gonna go to menards with my speakers tomorrow and try to do something like this with a mid and tweet


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## mayhamfx

I gotta laugh. I just got back from the hardware store with two caps for my tweeters. Then I found this article. Great minds think alike. :laugh:


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## jeepintn

used this today and it turned out great! thanks for the idea


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## mr tibbs

Damn, why didn't I think of something like this years ago?? Great idea, I do believe I will use this over and over again! Thank you very much!!


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## lithium

has this been tried with a mid and tweet yet? anyone got pics?


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## PsychoZX

This is an awesome tutorial. I am going to do this when I get my new components.


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## RandyJ75

A guy posted this over on the Corvette Forum a couple of months ago. Do you know SublimeZ?


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## blacksvtf03

Hey this is really a damn good idea. I like it.


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## SublimeZ

RandyJ75 said:


> A guy posted this over on the Corvette Forum a couple of months ago. Do you know SublimeZ?


see posts #7 and 13...


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## blacksvtf03

Those look really cool! If you showed them to me with no idea of material I would have said they were prolly glassed! Awesome job


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## RandyJ75

SublimeZ said:


> see posts #7 and 13...



Sorry James, I did not see your name there. I have just finished doing this to my C4, and the difference is quite dramatic. It raises the sound stage so that the sound is right there.

Well done.


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## sqguy

hey i have a set of LPG what is the correct size end caps for these tweets?

thx,

Mike


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## SublimeZ

RandyJ75 said:


> Sorry James, I did not see your name there. I have just finished doing this to my C4, and the difference is quite dramatic. It raises the sound stage so that the sound is right there.
> 
> Well done.


No problem. Here's new ones with Vifa XT25's





















sqguy said:


> hey i have a set of LPG what is the correct size end caps for these tweets?
> 
> thx,
> 
> Mike


Just take one with you to lowes/hd and see what fits


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## sqguy

ok thx i figured i'd have to do that lol


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## sqguy

well just got back from lowes and hd, from what i can tell the closet size for my LPG's is 1.5" end cap, but its a lil too small. does anyone know if they make a 1.75" end cap it would be a bigger in my opinion but i can wrapped them and they should fit shug.


Mike has anyone tried this technique with a large format tweeter?


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## SublimeZ

sqguy said:


> well just got back from lowes and hd, from what i can tell the closet size for my LPG's is 1.5" end cap, but its a lil too small. does anyone know if they make a 1.75" end cap it would be a bigger in my opinion but i can wrapped them and they should fit shug.
> 
> 
> Mike has anyone tried this technique with a large format tweeter?



No 1.75" caps.
Use 2" and make a ring from plastic or mdf. 
hint: hole saws are your friend...


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## sqguy

oh ok i was also thinkin could the inner wall of the cap be sanded or grinded down a lil to make them fit?


Mike


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## SublimeZ

maybe. Pesonally, I think they'd look better with a little "reveal"


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## SD_R/T

Nope - no 1.75" available. However, if you're so inclined, you could find a local irrigation supply place. They'll have more types of pvc: schedule 40, schedule 80, class 200, class 315. These have slightly different wall thicknesses and inside diameters - one of which might possibly fit your tweet.

Otherwise, stepping up to a 2" - like mentioned earlier - might be your best bet.

BTW......this is a cool idea.


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## goodstuff

SublimeZ said:


> No problem. Here's new ones with Vifa XT25's
> 
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> 
> Just take one with you to lowes/hd and see what fits


Damn it now I can't blame my install on the size of this tweeter, you made it look good/
Edit: Oh wait are these the xt25's? Theydon't look big enough.


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## SublimeZ

goodstuff said:


> Damn it now I can't blame my install on the size of this tweeter, you made it look good/
> Edit: Oh wait are these the xt25's? Theydon't look big enough.


these Vifa XT25SC90-04 Ring Radiator Tweeter from Madisound


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## goodstuff

SublimeZ said:


> these Vifa XT25SC90-04 Ring Radiator Tweeter from Madisound


Oh, I have the larger format.


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## snaimpally

RandyJ75 said:


> A guy posted this over on the Corvette Forum a couple of months ago. Do you know SublimeZ?


Hah! Do I know SublimeZ? We were the founding members of the Austin chapter of DIYMA a little over a year ago. He lives around the corner from me and gets car audio help from the same guy I do, Glenn (GLN305). Glenn invented tweeter pods and made and installed them for both of us.


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## snaimpally

sqguy said:


> well just got back from lowes and hd, from what i can tell the closet size for my LPG's is 1.5" end cap, but its a lil too small. does anyone know if they make a 1.75" end cap it would be a bigger in my opinion but i can wrapped them and they should fit shug.
> 
> Mike has anyone tried this technique with a large format tweeter?


If they just barely don't fit, you could try sanding the 1.5" end caps. Or get 2" end caps and use some weather stripping foam etc. to line the insides to make it a snug fit.


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## snaimpally

RandyJ75 said:


> Sorry James, I did not see your name there. I have just finished doing this to my C4, and the difference is quite dramatic. It raises the sound stage so that the sound is right there.
> 
> Well done.


Glenn (GLN305) deserves all the credit. He is the one who thought of the idea and how to finish them. Lots of people use ends caps, but they usually glue or glass them in. With this approach, swapping out tweeters is a 10 minute job. He is also a master at sparying bedliner - his first coat is smooth and then the second coat adds texture.


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## AndyInOC

the pillar mount for me was an utter failure as far as sound, next experiment....... these pods!! caught my eye months ago and it is now time to play around. Great idea Glenn and great write up and pics Shiv


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## dejo

got mine ghetto'ed in, still need to work some with the angles and they look a little funny in my little cobalt but they are there and thats a huge plus for me. those with these from the FoosBQue sounded very nice. so I have high hopes in the end for mine.

SublimeZ, I did go ahead and pick up the xxx comps and am liking them so far, rather astounded with the mid action on these


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## SublimeZ

dejo said:


> SublimeZ, I did go ahead and pick up the xxx comps and am liking them so far, rather astounded with the mid action on these


Yeah, they're monsters. Tweets are pretty good, directly on axis. They will play as low as 2k, but did very well hp'd at 2.5k.


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## GLN305

Here are some pics of my pods painted the same color as my truck.


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## AndyInOC

Glenn, did you chop those caps down a bit for a lower profile or are they set into the pillar? Or maybe just an optical illusion?


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## SublimeZ

optical illusion


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## AndyInOC

SublimeZ said:


> optical illusion


Wow, nutty optics on the other angles, thanks! Still considering chopping mine a bit for an even lower profile, but it is all still nothing but an idea and experiment. The dash in my scion is not level, there is a "hump" of sorts, so they would have to go at least 4 inches up the pillar to clear it and it is not real easy to temp them in to get a listen that way


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## 240sxguy

This would work amazingly for gauges too if they weren't too deep. Very cool!


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## dashan

Done this with the 1.5" endcup. Sit the dynaudio MD102. Very good results.


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## lithium

im trying a 3inch peerless fullrange this week, previously i had the tweet from my pg rsd comp set in one (cant remember size).


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## Wonway

Nice idea I guess, but still looks FUGLY IMO!


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## dannyboi

thats good actually lol


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## snaimpally

Wonway said:


> Nice idea I guess, but still looks FUGLY IMO!


Do you have a better way to mount tweeters on the A-pillars? There is really not any way to make them blend in completely, and the bigger the tweeter, the more they stand out. If they are small (ie. small tweeters) and painted a coordinating color, they look pretty nice actually - the pics don't do them justice.

Waiting to hear what brilliant ideas you have ...


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## snaimpally

240sxguy said:


> This would work amazingly for gauges too if they weren't too deep. Very cool!


You can sand them down to the depth you need. It is actually a very good way to mount gauges on an A-pillar.


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## attilio

This is off-the-hook, buddy. Nice job.


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## CrownMe

hey,

is the bed liner absolutely necessary? Like does it help with the sound or something? 

eitherways, great writeup, I'm going to give this a shot this week


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## Pseudonym

anyone else thinking this would work mounting these in the kicks? like for instance, ive got a set of xtant/morel components (the wr4 and some morel tweet), and was just thinking of fitting the tweet into one of these and find one big enough for the mid and mounting them the same way but down low in the kicks and aimed. seems like the threaded rod or whatever it is that goes through the pillar would vent the mid into the kick too for better airspace than the pvc cap could provide. 

this make sense to anyone?


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## blackbonnie

has anyone got a pic or two of doing this with a mid, or a mid and a tweeter in the pillars. im trying to ponder what 2 speakers would look like with this.

will definately be doing this in the coming days


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## Pseudonym

Pseudonym said:


> anyone else thinking this would work mounting these in the kicks? like for instance, ive got a set of xtant/morel components (the wr4 and some morel tweet), and was just thinking of fitting the tweet into one of these and find one big enough for the mid and mounting them the same way but down low in the kicks and aimed. seems like the threaded rod or whatever it is that goes through the pillar would vent the mid into the kick too for better airspace than the pvc cap could provide.
> 
> this make sense to anyone?


am i crazy?


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## stadt11

Cool idea, I'll have to try this one!


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## blackbonnie

got mine finished, figured ill post em up: (no thread jack, just more pics for everyone)


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## blackbonnie

this is why you measure twice cut once, ill end up picking up a pillar from the junkyard for 5$ so no biggy


































waitin to get my mids in so i can get my tuning down, so i havent even listened to em yet, but the only reason i did this is to raise my stage height a bit.

the pods will eventually be painted, im thinking gloss black, but as of now the plain pvc blends fairly well with my stock pillar color so im leaving it until i get more time


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## jsun_g

Great idea! Threads like this get me thinking. I am going to give this a shot, or alternatively I am considering counter-sinking the PVC caps into the plastic A-pillar covers so they don't jut out as much.


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## SublimeZ

blackbonnie said:


> this is why you measure twice cut once, ill end up picking up a pillar from the junkyard for 5$ so no biggy


you can get another cap and change where the lamprod goes thru...


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## blackbonnie

SublimeZ said:


> you can get another cap and change where the lamprod goes thru...


i thought about this, but it ended up to low anyway. if you can tell in the pictures where my gauges are there is a hump on the dash, and where the first tweeter pod would have been it would have fired right into it, so i had to raise it to take care of its sound path.

either way im very satisfied with them, ill get anoth a-pillar, redo that one, and call it good. but my stage height is right where i want it and love it.

and these tweeters seem very good on axis


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## snaimpally

blackbonnie said:


> i thought about this, but it ended up to low anyway. if you can tell in the pictures where my gauges are there is a hump on the dash, and where the first tweeter pod would have been it would have fired right into it, so i had to raise it to take care of its sound path.
> 
> either way im very satisfied with them, ill get anoth a-pillar, redo that one, and call it good. but my stage height is right where i want it and love it.
> 
> and these tweeters seem very good on axis


Can't beat this method when you have tweeters that need to be on-axis.


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## blackbonnie

snaimpally said:


> Can't beat this method when you have tweeters that need to be on-axis.


agreed man, and i love them on axis


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## zerodistortion

What a great idea! This will work putting the tweets in the kick panel too..I'll have to give that a try sometimes.


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## KLoNe

Ok, this is way too cool - I was just about to spend the next month of weekends doing up some fibreglass tweeter pods; but this will day 3/4 of a DAY!

Hello Saturday job


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## qikazel

Here are mine!! Worked great!!


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## ozz

Simple & awsome..


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## deodkid

nice job..



dashan said:


> Done this with the 1.5" endcup. Sit the dynaudio MD102. Very good results.


got some pics?


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## Austin

CrownMe said:


> hey,
> 
> is the bed liner absolutely necessary? Like does it help with the sound or something?


Nothing to do with the sound, just for the texture so no its not necessary.


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## sqguy

So Did anyone try this technique with a 3 or 4" mid? I have a pr of L3's that i wanna use but I'm not sure there is goin to be enough airspace in these for them. might have to trade them for some peerless exclusives 4"

Mike


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## jsun_g

I have tried a 4" I.D. PVC elbow with a 5.25" mid when I was experimenting with rear fill. I would estimate the length of the PVC pipe, taking into account the elbow, maybe 10". I had the mids bandpassed and the elbows placed on my rear deck. Didn't like the sound at all, they needed more room to "breathe". Might not be as much of an issue with a 3" driver which isn't handling frequencies as low though. Another option may be instead of closing the other end of the PVC pipe, funneling it inside your dash or A-pillar to effectively make it an IB setup.

You might want to check threads from CaptainObvious ... he has had some good experiences with PVC pipes and small drivers.


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## m3dia_lab

nice! also nice to see another mazda 3 owner (i want a speed )


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## meelo

sorry if i sound retarded....but i it's just press fit in right?...nothing to really secure it besides pressure?


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## WhiteFiver

Looks amazing! Definitely going to be doing this in my G5, once I decide what tweeter I'm going with.


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## lucas569

so what kind of improvements in sound did u hear? 

id imagine they woul dbe pretty strong on axis like this...


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## snaimpally

meelo said:


> sorry if i sound retarded....but i it's just press fit in right?...nothing to really secure it besides pressure?


You mean securing the tweeter inside the pod? If the tweeter doesn't fit snug, use some electrical tape or the cloth side of a velcro strip arounnd the tweeter (or the inside of the pod). Also, if you pull any slack from the speaker wire to the tweeter, it will prevent the tweeter from moving as well.


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## snaimpally

lucas569 said:


> so what kind of improvements in sound did u hear?
> 
> id imagine they woul dbe pretty strong on axis like this...


The stage was quite nice. The best thing is to try different angles until you find one that works best and then use that. The pods can also be used in other locations besides the A-pillars. For example, you can use the pods with sail panels as well.


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## papacueball

I got mine done today. 

First, I made some rings from a cheap cutting board, using a 2.5'' and a 1.75'' hole saw, and attached my tweeters to them with some small allen head screws.


















I drilled three countersunk holes in the side of each cap, and used those holes to drill pilot holes in the rings.









The screws that hold the rings in place are some spare pickguard screws from a guitar project from a while back.









A few coats of semi-gloss black, and in they go.


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## blackedout

Very nice!


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## Killa Camry

WHY DIDNT I THINK IOF THT!


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## turbo5upra

nobody seemed to want my dls mid's so I ran with this idea the other night.... working out great so far! just gotta finish spraying them,... I put some pipe on the inside to make the mounting hole smaller.


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## tronik

Definitely need to give this a shot w/ my tweeters at some point.


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## asc55

would love to see an install on sail panels with these.


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## less

It wouldn't be hard to glue them in if you wanted to... someone posted some glue that is supposed to work really well with plastic that just came out recently - if you have plastic bodies. I made pods like this several years ago but used hole saws, a dremel and a router to make them out of oak... they worked great for a two way. Not all tweeters are going to sound good on axis and up top - as someone mentioned, in your face. You may want to expirement with your tweeters prior to cutting the cups and try facing them directly toward each other, slightly off axis and on axis before locking them in. 

Nice time saver going with the cup - another idea straight out of a twisted mind like mine (only better). I was actually looking at PVC angled tubes that were 6" wide and toying with mounting mids in them until I came to my senses!

Ultimately, I ended up going three way though and the mid and tweeter need to be near each other for good imaging in a three way. Thankfully a friend shared a little info with me and I'll have some new options here soon that I expect to yield great results.

Less


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## audiorailroad

a dome mid is another thought.


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## Schon

very creative


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## j_blackman

This is going to sound like a really stupid question but:

How are the pods mounted to the actual a-pillar?

I realize the threaded pole extends into the a-pillar and I figured you guys were just putting another nut on the end, but in the original poster's pictures it looks like the threaded poles were also covered in bedliner/spray paint, which I'm assuming would make it impossible to thread a washer on?


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## papacueball

I covered the threaded nipple with masking tape. Even though it was a tight fit, and had to be threaded into the A-pillar trim, I used a nut and washer on the back.


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## j_blackman

Oh that makes sense. Thanks!


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## j_blackman

So are the majority of you guys aiming the driver's side pod at the driver and the passenger side at the passenger, or "cross-firing" them so to speak?

Also, some HAS to have tried running two pods per side by now?

This would be a sweet way of mounting a TB W3 bamboo full range driver on axis, and I'm wondering how it would look to run a pair on each side, (one driver pointed at the closest listener and one cross firing to the other listener).


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## stilife

This is great!


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## syncal1

This is a great time saver for sure! A pat on the back needs to be given to Glen for thinking with an open and creative mind. Also good job to all that posted pics of thier results with this method.
Anthony


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## az_native

Really nice set up. Too bad I have air bags in my pillars.


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## papacueball

az_native said:


> Really nice set up. Too bad I have air bags in my pillars.


You still might be able to do it. Where are the airbags located? Mine are up high and close to the door glass.


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## Sideshow

I did something similar to this for the Aura 2" full-range drivers, but I used similarly shaped Tupperware containers from Target. The problem was they weren't strong enough to be securely mounted anywhere without cracking around the connection point. This idea is WAY better. I'll move those Aura's over to a pair of these this week and post the results...


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## Hawk Thor

This just made my day. I recently got DLS UR6S components in a trade and was going to put them in my Land Cruiser. This solution looks so nice. Thumbs up!


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## Curt941

I am deffinitely going to build something like this for my civic when I do my install. 

Any more thoughts on building an enclosure/holder for 4" mid-range speakers if using a 3-way component setup?


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## papacueball

I would think a 4" driver and the appropriate size cap would be kind of heavy to mount to the A pillar trim. Maybe you could mount it to the metal of the pillar instead?


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## sniper5431

I really like this idea and I am trying this method with a spin. I have been reading about diffraction. The focal tweeters are a bit bright. Was hoping to mellow them a bit. I found a cone shape back area that fit into the pod. have not mounted in car yet. Will let you know if I see any improvement. Its not perfectly smooth inside. Yet pretty close. Its a really tight fit in the reducer.


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## Whippet

I know what I am doing this weekend. Brilliant idea - and thanks!


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## havieri23

heres mines with some vifa xt25 neo. i used another cap, so it can "micro adjust".lol. i dont want to drill holes in the car, so i might use velcro to get them stuck..any ideas on mounting???..thanks for the idea on the pods.


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## GLN305

Look what I started....tweeter pod mania LOL


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## sniper5431

lol Was a fun project.


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## bafukie

gonna start mine very soon.. got everything except for the hex nuts and threaded pipes.


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## DaleCarter

jsun_g said:


> Great idea! Threads like this get me thinking. I am going to give this a shot, or alternatively I am considering counter-sinking the PVC caps into the plastic A-pillar covers so they don't jut out as much.


Exactly what I am thinking of for my Expedition. Recessing these into an A-pillar would be easy, just shave a little, test fit, shave a little, test fit, over and over and over


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## bafukie

just did mine a few days ago, its fun diy-ing the pod, however i have to admit mine doesnt really look good


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## mitchjr

What is the best place to aim these? ear level between the seats, at the dome light like in kicks, both at me, or is it totally opinion.


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## thematrimix

This is an interesting idea.


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## MyNameIsBen

mitchjr said:


> What is the best place to aim these? ear level between the seats, at the dome light like in kicks, both at me, or is it totally opinion.


wherever it sounds the nicest to you


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## thematrimix

This might work using small full range drivers. Something like this maybe

Parts-Express.com:Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver | CYBER09 tangband tb neo newband tangband-41108

or there are several peerless 2 to 2 1/2 full range as well.

Bypass tweeter


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## goodstuff

havieri23 said:


> heres mines with some vifa xt25 neo. i used another cap, so it can "micro adjust".lol. i dont want to drill holes in the car, so i might use velcro to get them stuck..any ideas on mounting???..thanks for the idea on the pods.


I have the same tweeters. My vehicle needs to look stealth when parked, so the tweets need to be removable. This is what I've come up with.


2-Position Female Interlocking Connector - RadioShack.com










Glue one side of this connector flush into the pillar. Glue or somehow attach the other side to the back of the tweeter. Wiring connections and mounting all in one. When the tweet is removed I'll use some kind of magnetic cover to go over the hole, havn't got that totally figured out yet.


----------



## thematrimix

goodstuff said:


> I have the same tweeters. My vehicle needs to look stealth when parked, so the tweets need to be removable. This is what I've come up with.
> 
> 
> 2-Position Female Interlocking Connector - RadioShack.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue one side of this connector flush into the pillar. Glue or somehow attach the other side to the back of the tweeter. Wiring connections and mounting all in one. When the tweet is removed I'll use some kind of magnetic cover to go over the hole, havn't got that totally figured out yet.


Not sure on the removable part, but if one wants to make it adjustable you can cut a slot instead of a hole and use a spring system to make it fully adjustable. I will have to search around for pics or make a simple one.


----------



## goodstuff

thematrimix said:


> Not sure on the removable part, but if one wants to make it adjustable you can cut a slot instead of a hole and use a spring system to make it fully adjustable. I will have to search around for pics or make a simple one.


A slot instead of a hole? Holes are not slots? 
Lol. Sounds like one of those association problems from high school.
If all holes are slots, and all zoozulls are flugs, then all floozels should be zoozulls.


----------



## Whippet

goodstuff said:


> A slot instead of a hole? Holes are not slots?
> Lol. Sounds like one of those association problems from high school.
> If all holes are slots, and all zoozulls are flugs, then all floozels should be zoozulls.


Yes, and then in the style of George Thorogood:

"I thought them Zoozulls went with them Floozles,
For each other those holes and slots were meant -
But then someone intro-duced that variable ....
And out the door I went [guitar rang-nanga-nanga-nang-nang ....]

Ok - just got home from work (no I'm not bustin into another lyric!)

Dennis
Aka Whippet


----------



## thematrimix

Whippet said:


> Yes, and then in the style of George Thorogood:
> 
> "I thought them Zoozulls went with them Floozles,
> For each other those holes and slots were meant -
> But then someone intro-duced that variable ....
> And out the door I went [guitar rang-nanga-nanga-nang-nang ....]
> 
> Ok - just got home from work (no I'm not bustin into another lyric!)
> 
> Dennis
> Aka Whippet


I have not listened to so Thorogood in a good while. Good stuff.

Aside from that I made a simple pic in paint so one will have to use a little imagination, but the idea is there. Ok the slot would go on the curve part of the cup and one can put as many slots as they want to make it more adjustable. I hope this explains what I am talking about better. Hard to put it in words.


----------



## snaimpally

GLN305 said:


> Look what I started....tweeter pod mania LOL


It was a great idea that you came up with.


----------



## snaimpally

mitchjr said:


> What is the best place to aim these? ear level between the seats, at the dome light like in kicks, both at me, or is it totally opinion.


Glenn, who invented tweeter pods and who has forgotten more about car audio than I will ever know says that the best alignment is to aim the tweeters at the seatbelt holder - aim the driver side tweeter at the upper hanger that holds the passenger side seat belt and vice versa.


----------



## snaimpally

sniper5431 said:


> I really like this idea and I am trying this method with a spin. I have been reading about diffraction. The focal tweeters are a bit bright. Was hoping to mellow them a bit. I found a cone shape back area that fit into the pod. have not mounted in car yet. Will let you know if I see any improvement. Its not perfectly smooth inside. Yet pretty close. Its a really tight fit in the reducer.


If they are bright I would mount them more off axis, i.e. almost facing each other.


----------



## snaimpally

meelo said:


> sorry if i sound retarded....but i it's just press fit in right?...nothing to really secure it besides pressure?


You may have to put some electrical tape or cloth velcro around the tweeter to make it fit if it sits loosely in the PVC cap. Since they are aimed slightly upward, once you get a snug fit, they will not come out by accident.


----------



## snaimpally

j_blackman said:


> This is going to sound like a really stupid question but:
> 
> How are the pods mounted to the actual a-pillar?
> 
> I realize the threaded pole extends into the a-pillar and I figured you guys were just putting another nut on the end, but in the original poster's pictures it looks like the threaded poles were also covered in bedliner/spray paint, which I'm assuming would make it impossible to thread a washer on?


No - the threaded poles are not covered with bedliner. If they were, they washers would not go one. Use masking tape etc. Glenn is very skilled with bedliner so he didn't get any on the threads. The threaded nipples go through the A-pillar and are secured by a washer to the A pillar. Glenn has mounted large format 4" tweeters this way.


----------



## gokiburi

A different twist on this excellent idea. A bit pricey, but you would save money on spray paint.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=38465&catid=592[/URL]


----------



## trunks9_us

snaimpally said:


> No - the threaded poles are not covered with bedliner. If they were, they washers would not go one. Use masking tape etc. Glenn is very skilled with bedliner so he didn't get any on the threads. The threaded nipples go through the A-pillar and are secured by a washer to the A pillar. Glenn has mounted large format 4" tweeters this way.


I didnt know glenn did this with large format tweeters interesting to know though. I have a question though with this also work with a cone mid range speaker? The apillar would have enough air space but I am concerned that the nipple would be a issue giving that the nipple air flow is so small until it gets to the apillar. Would this be a issue?


----------



## bigrig

Well, this was my project today. I already had some gauges mounted on the A-pillar, so I mounted the tweeters on the dash panel next to the pillar. I'm pretty pleased with the results. Right now I've got some Orion tweeters in there, but I ordered some Vifa NE19VTT that are going in. The Orions have way more output than the Infinity silk domes I had in the factory location (aimed right into the side of the dash). Maybe I have them aimed up too much? Need to paint the pods, tweak the mount angle, and put the Vifas in. And run the Alpine Imprint tuning.

But overall it was pretty easy, hardest part was getting that damn dash panel off, ended up a lot of the metal clips just broke off the damn thing. :cussing:

Thanks for posting this tutorial! :beerchug: Here's my pics:


----------



## snaimpally

Nice! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## bigrig

v2.0 of the tweeter pods - I got the Vifa NE19VTT tweeters, and found that they fit well in 1.25" PVC caps. I also found that Home Depot has better caps than Lowes - Lowes were flat on the top and had rough plastic edges. 

I filed a few areas on the inside of the cap so the screws had clearance. I wanted black socket head screws but Home Depot didn't have them small enough. I guess the stainless looks okay. Painted them with black Fusion "Hammered Finish" spraypaint.

Home Depot vs Lowes


----------



## javig999

Can anyone comment on their experience with a larger format tweeter? I am trying to find a simple solution to mounting a set of RS28's in a Civic sedan. Now that I have the tweeters in hand I find the task more daunting than I expected...

Thanks in advance...


----------



## Derf

here is a list of schedule 40 & 80 pvc gray pipe sizes http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/drawings/pipespecs.pdf
your inner diameter of your cap will be roughly equal to the outer diameter of the pipe its intended to fit...


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

Bad ass. Thanks.


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

Just finished getting mine in place, Tomorrow I'm going to paint them to exactly match my Hybrid's blue dash color and then screw in the face plates.


----------



## amungal

Great ideas all!


----------



## papacueball

bigrig said:


>





Gas Is Expensive said:


>


Nice work on both of these! I'm curious as to how the tweeters are actually held in place. 

@bigrig, I see the screws, but what do they screw into? 

@Gas, do you plan to use screws, or is there something else securing the tweeter?


----------



## GLN305

I'm amazed that my simple idea of using PVC end caps has helped this many people!!


----------



## papacueball

Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best! Thanks Glenn!


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

papacueball said:


> Nice work on both of these! I'm curious as to how the tweeters are actually held in place.
> 
> @bigrig, I see the screws, but what do they screw into?
> 
> @Gas, do you plan to use screws, or is there something else securing the tweeter?


I've already screwed them in. Did it this morning.


----------



## papacueball

Screwed into what?


----------



## bigrig

papacueball said:


> Screwed into what?


Mine I filed little notches into the sides of the PVC, and the screws have enough "bite" to hold the tweeter in place. If you look closely you can see the screws are angled.


----------



## papacueball

I see that, now that you mentioned it. I think the stainless screws match nicely with the domes.


----------



## Austin

papacueball said:


> I see that, now that you mentioned it. I think the stainless screws match nicely with the domes.


Weren't you wondering how the pods are attached to the dash? That's what i got out of your question above.


----------



## papacueball

Nope. Scroll up a few more posts.


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

Tomorrow they'll be painted.


----------



## mSaLL150

Question for all of you who have done this: How are they holding up to bumpy roads? I do a lot of hunting and my truck is often offroad and on old county roads littered with potholes. I would like to try this, but I dont want the pods flopping around when hitting big bumps. Think I'll be alright?


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

mSaLL150 said:


> Question for all of you who have done this: How are they holding up to bumpy roads? I do a lot of hunting and my truck is often offroad and on old county roads littered with potholes. I would like to try this, but I dont want the pods flopping around when hitting big bumps. Think I'll be alright?


Not a problem at all here, and I live on one of the bumpiest roads in North America (they're repaving this Spring, thank God).


----------



## tgnylu

Is there a reason people aren't trimming these pods down to make them more shallow? They seem pretty bulky in the depth department. How much airspace behind the tweet does there need to be?


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

tgnylu said:


> Is there a reason people aren't trimming these pods down to make them more shallow? They seem pretty bulky in the depth department. How much airspace behind the tweet does there need to be?


Less shallow? They don't need any air space at all. The tweeters, themselves, are enclosed chambers.


----------



## tgnylu

More shallow... not less.


----------



## Gas Is Expensive

tgnylu said:


> More shallow... not less.


Ah, I see you fixed it! ;-)


----------



## papacueball

mSaLL150 said:


> Question for all of you who have done this: How are they holding up to bumpy roads? I do a lot of hunting and my truck is often offroad and on old county roads littered with potholes. I would like to try this, but I dont want the pods flopping around when hitting big bumps. Think I'll be alright?


I drilled a 3/8'' hole for the 3/8'' nipples and had to actually screw them into the pillar trim and the pvc cap. Also, iirc, there is a nut and flat washer inside the pillar trim, a nut between the pillar and cap, and nut and washer inside the cap. They were both very sturdy until I drilled out the hole to re-aim the driver's side tweeter. After a few good bumps, it would be pointing at the dash. I added a rubber washer (from a faucet repair kit) under the flat washer inside the cap to keep the pod from moving and loosening the nut. 



tgnylu said:


> Is there a reason people aren't trimming these pods down to make them more shallow? They seem pretty bulky in the depth department. How much airspace behind the tweet does there need to be?


No reason not to trim them to whatever depth you need. Good idea.


----------



## williepee

another idea to the memory bank.

first post by the way, lurking for at least a year....


----------



## bigrig

mSaLL150 said:


> Question for all of you who have done this: How are they holding up to bumpy roads? I do a lot of hunting and my truck is often offroad and on old county roads littered with potholes. I would like to try this, but I dont want the pods flopping around when hitting big bumps. Think I'll be alright?


I used a lock washer but mine are kinda loose now - gonna do it again with Loctite this time...


----------



## wheelieking71

here is my contribution to this nifty idea. thanks OP! i went to lowes because there is one literally in my boss's back yard. took a tweet with (Alpine SPX-pro) and was pleasantly surprised to find that it snapped right in a 1.5" cap. couldnt fit better. so i went home and commenced to spend all of 1/2hour on this. would have taken 10mins if i hadnt let the paint dry for 20mins LOL. (keep in mind my rendition is temporary while i play with my set-up) anways, sanded a flat spot on the bottom because im going to use velcro (no drilling yet!):



















obviously drilled a couple holes for wire, and a quick coat of satin black (because its all i had on hand):










then while the paint was still tacky LOL, stick em to the dash!



















only other thing i should note is that the tweets fit snug enough, that i masked the inside when i painted. i didnt want the paint to "glue" the tweet in the cap. looks a whole lot better than the rags i had stuffed up there LOL, and no more tweet rolling across the dash when i hit a bump!


----------



## adrenalin1

nice work


----------



## Ray21

Awesome! I may have to do this...


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

Love the thread and idea

was planning on trying this but no 2.5" pvc or caps in my area

So off to make fiberglass pods


----------



## G8H8

subscribed


----------



## Lateshow

Nice work with the bedliner spray... Before I put mids in the door, I was looking at the big end caps and pvp piping, but thought it would be too much of a pita to paint etc.


----------



## tgnylu

I came across these as well which are a cheap and easy alternative for those using tweeters with an outside diameter of 2". I had to modify the mount slightly for mine to fit, but it works great.

LPG Hinge Mount


----------



## G8H8

Has anyone tried cutting a faceplate out of 1/4 or 1/2 MDF and gluing that to the PVC end cap?


----------



## GLN305

G8H8 said:


> Has anyone tried cutting a faceplate out of 1/4 or 1/2 MDF and gluing that to the PVC end cap?


I went to a plastic supply place and bought some 3/8'' thick plastic to make a ring with and glue to the inside of the pod. Worked well. If you use PVC you can use PVC glue as well which dries quickly.


----------



## mitchjr

I am in the process of making some pods for a pair of fr88's. I used a plastic cutting board from walmart and am using the glue that's for abs, cpvc, pvc. Its the red one. The guys at lowes says it works on any plastic. 

I thought about using mdf with screws through the sides. Idk what type of glue u could use with it though. Liquid nails?


----------



## gibsones300

This is a great idea. I have been trying to make swiveling mounts for my A/D/S 320i tweeters. I am going to use this method with one modification that I thought I'd throw out there for anyone who wants a little more mobility in the swivel. If you want complete degree of freedom with swiveling the mount, there is a simple modification. Instead of drilling one hole in the back of the pvc cup for the threaded nipple to fit in, extend that hole into a slot that extends from the angle of the cup, around the radius of the back of the cup. That way you can adjust the angle that the nipple makes with the pvc cup after it is installed for finer adjustments and experimenting with tweeter aiming. If this doesn't make sense I'll post pictures.


----------



## derickveliz

gibsones300 said:


> If this doesn't make sense I'll post pictures.


Pictures would be great!

D.


----------



## mitchjr

I can see what your saying, and it sounds great. I'm not an expert on diffraction but I think from reading the thread about it, over and over, I understand it pretty well. The one thing I would suggest is to make sure the drivers are flush mount and the front of the enclosure is as smoooth and gradually sloping as possible. I think from looking at a lot of the pics, people are too concerned with the back of the enclosure, but if there is a sharp edge (ex:the flange of the driver) your results will be less than optimal. I've seen a lot of guys use a half circle the same size as the outer flange, I'm pretty sure you need a full circle slightly larger than the driver so you can have a smooth transition to the enclosure, not a sharp edge. (or at least a roundover with the driver flush mount) I'm probably not explaining well.

I could be wrong, but I don't think so.


----------



## gibsones300

Hopefully I can have some pictures of what I'm talking about up this weekend. In essence, the nipple contacts the cup at the tangent of the radius on the back of the cup. If you have a slot, instead of one single drilled hole, that extends along the diameter of the cup, you can slide the nipple along the slot. This gives you up/down motion. The rotation of the cup around the nipple gives you your left/right motion.


----------



## derickveliz

mitchjr said:


> I'm pretty sure you need a full circle slightly larger than the driver so you can have a smooth transition to the enclosure, not a sharp edge. (or at least a roundover with the driver flush mount) I'm probably not explaining well.
> I could be wrong, but I don't think so.


I'm working on it, even though mine are not easily replaceable...











.


----------



## mitchjr

Ya, those are looking fantastic so far. 

Did you use something for a mold? 

I had made tweeter pods maybe 8 months ago, and I just finished putting my FR-88 fullranges in some end caps. They are flushmount and I did as big a roundover as I could. But you really went all out with these. 

I plan to do a tutorial on mine once I get a new computer. The kids broke the screen off my laptop and for some reason I can't figure out a way to get pics on here from my iPhone. I bet a lot of people would enjoy a little tutorial on your work. 

Great work sir.


----------



## derickveliz

mitchjr said:


> Ya, those are looking fantastic so far.
> 
> Did you use something for a mold?
> I bet a lot of people would enjoy a little tutorial on your work.
> 
> Great work sir.


Thank you,
I just used foam balls, I will start my build log soon, from deadening to spheres and everything.











.


----------



## jmil1974

mSaLL150 said:


> Question for all of you who have done this: How are they holding up to bumpy roads? I do a lot of hunting and my truck is often offroad and on old county roads littered with potholes. I would like to try this, but I dont want the pods flopping around when hitting big bumps. Think I'll be alright?


I used a nut inside the cap, a large washer (painted) between the cap and panel, and a large washer and nut behind the panel. Large washers are the key to stability, especially if your panels are relatively thin and flimsy.


----------



## derickveliz

jmil1974 said:


> I used a nut inside the cap, a large washer (painted) between the cap and panel, and a large washer and nut behind the panel. Large washers are the key to stability, especially if your panels are relatively thin and flimsy.


*This was my approach! and works really good, I used it on my 2" and 4.5" spheres with great results!*





































D.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

How would something like this work with say the FR88EX 3" everyone is working with these days... 

Would a simple PVC end-cap pod provide enough air space, I would think not, but what about venting it into the pillar trim?


----------



## mitchjr

I have my FR-88's in 3 inch endcaps, stuffed with polyfill. My only complaint is that I wanted to add some mass to the caps so I put some vibration damper and some modeling clay in them, and it served it's purpose cause now they're pretty heavy. But my pillars are somewhat flimsy. So if they are not resting on the dash they move around too much. 
I think though even with just the drivers and the fairly large endcaps this would still be the case. I did place mine all the way back as far into the corner as possible which helps greatly with keeping them firmly in place. 

On a side note, I have a deep dash and a very laid back windshield. The pld's are so close that I have much better two-seat imaging. I used to hate the sound from the passenger seat. For a perfect center in the driver seat I only need 2-3"(t/a) on my 9887. (still more for my door mounted mids though)


----------



## mitchjr

Wow that was too much. How bout, they work great in that airspace down to 250hz.


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

how was that way too much man.. more the better...lol.. 

Thank you..


----------



## bigguy2010

Can't wait to see how derickveliz built those spheres, looks nice man!


----------



## derickveliz

bigguy2010 said:


> Can't wait to see how derickveliz built those spheres, looks nice man!


*Thank you bigguy2010...*

I'm working on the building log...

Here is the LINK

.


----------



## BigEasy

I'm gunna steal this design from you on my new build. Thanks!


----------



## AccordUno

I'm going to bring this to the top, so I used this method with some spheres I picked up @ Michaels for my dome midranges (more later), I got the angle I wanted on those, but I'm looking at putting the tweeters on a swivel, not just rotate on one axis, but more of a swivel on two axis. I know someone has done it, but I can't find the post to save my life at the moment.

Note: I don't draw for a living, but the gist of what I'm talking about.


----------



## derickveliz

AccordUno said:


> but I'm looking at putting the tweeters on a swivel, not just rotate on one axis, but more of a swivel on two axis.


This is what I was going to use! "Camera Mount"











.


----------



## AccordUno

derickveliz said:


> This is what I was going to use!
> .


I take it you didn't go that route? 

I found a few but, more than likely, necessity is going to be the mother of all inventions in this route.. Solid aluminum rod, couple of hex bolts, a small die and tap, and some elbow grease..


----------



## derickveliz

AccordUno said:


> I take it you didn't go that route?


Once I know the aiming of my tweeters, I'm trying to maximize *width* to improve sound stage.

Besides I don't like to see the wires. 

but that's just me.


----------



## thematrimix

derickveliz said:


> *This was my approach! and works really good, I used it on my 2" and 4.5" spheres with great results!*
> D.


Holy Crap that is flippin sweet. Makes me wanna do some think like it.


----------



## redearedslider5

turbo5upra said:


> nobody seemed to want my dls mid's so I ran with this idea the other night.... working out great so far! just gotta finish spraying them,... I put some pipe on the inside to make the mounting hole smaller.


any updates on this??


----------



## 92blacktt

derickveliz said:


> *This was my approach! and works really good, I used it on my 2" and 4.5" spheres with great results!*
> 
> D.


where did you find those spheres? are they Styrofoam and did you soak them in resin?


----------



## Geordie68

I'm finally getting around to building some tweeter pods out of pvc end caps as shown in this thread. For those interested, the steel nipples, or threaded rods and the matching hex nuts used to link the pod to the a-pillar are still available in the lamps/lighting section of home depot.


----------



## shexy

So im getting some L1V2's and I might use this method to mount them... any tips? I have a 2005 volkswagen passat. It has airbags on the pillars so i'll have to mount them to the dash..


----------



## redearedslider5

here's how mine went using the dyn md102 with a 2" cap and a dyn md142 in a 4" cap on the kicks. i also tried a way of making it adjustable by cutting a slot and using a spring to make it so you could adjust it without having to hand tighten anything. turns out that method sucks because the nut can't make it around the tight bends very easily and to get it to hold securely, the spring is so tight you might as well have done it without the spring in the first place.



























also it's worth mentioning that the tweeters look way better in person and the mids look worse in person.


----------



## Geordie68

They look very good. I like the idea of being able to adjust the tweeter angles easily; too bad the spring idea didn't work as well as planned. 

How did you finally decide where to aim the tweeters? I'm struggling with that decision on mine. On the mids, did you add those screws to hold them to the caps, or was that stock?


----------



## redearedslider5

Geordie68 said:


> They look very good. I like the idea of being able to adjust the tweeter angles easily; too bad the spring idea didn't work as well as planned.
> 
> How did you finally decide where to aim the tweeters? I'm struggling with that decision on mine. On the mids, did you add those screws to hold them to the caps, or was that stock?


honestly, i haven't played much with aiming the tweeters, i've only really used the gain to adjust so far. probably because i like the look of it the way it is now. though if i were to go adjust them i'd probably adjust them both towards the center a bit. the one of the drivers side takes way too much precedence over the sound and the passenger side is a bit quiet. upping the gain on the passenger side makes it sound a bit off though, so i'm sure aiming it'll do it. the springs also make it pretty hard to adjust to those angles, if anything new holes just need to be drilled. good thing they're so cheap!

and the screws holding the mids were stock on the mids. they actually don't even screw into the plastic. using the screws with some weather stripping does a good job of holding it centered. the only problem i've had with the mids is that the weight is a bit much and theres only one mounting point so they have a tendency the bounce a little when the road is rough. thats probably more my cars ridiculously rough ride than the install.


----------



## NIU_Huskies

wheelieking71 said:


> here is my contribution to this nifty idea. thanks OP! i went to lowes because there is one literally in my boss's back yard. took a tweet with (Alpine SPX-pro) and was pleasantly surprised to find that it snapped right in a 1.5" cap. couldnt fit better. so i went home and commenced to spend all of 1/2hour on this. would have taken 10mins if i hadnt let the paint dry for 20mins LOL. (keep in mind my rendition is temporary while i play with my set-up) anways, sanded a flat spot on the bottom because im going to use velcro (no drilling yet!):


How did you sand a flat spot like that? I tried and it just wasn't working well. I'm thinking of just using a flat piece of plastic or wood as a base and attaching it to the end cap so i have a flat area that i can velcro down to the dash.


----------



## gokiburi

I appreciate this thread and Patrick Bateman's a lot. I used the spheres epoxy puttied to a suction cup cell phone holder in each (useless) sail panel window at the end of my dash. Not as elegant as many of these (talking to you, DerickVeliz, redearedslider5), but adjustable tweeters FTW!


----------



## soFat!

I also appreciate this thread.
nice to see the different solutions.
Thanks to everyone who posts.



gokiburi said:


> but adjustable tweeters FTW!


----------



## FartinInTheTub

Damn you for this thread!!!!!!! Made me trash my original idea and go with this one. I was concerned about fitting a small format tweeter behind my stock grilles. Now I don't have to! Gonna get me some Scans and do this! THANK YOU so much for the brilliant idea. I read though this thread for about an hour and it was worth the read. I'm stoked now! epper:epper:epper:epper:epper:


----------



## Sarthos

I just tried this in my car. Only problem so far is that sometimes they rotate a bit when I hit potholes or train tracks or something. I've been trying to figure out a method for better adjustability without making them look like crap, getting the wires wrapped up, or having them fall around every time you hit a bump. So far nothing has worked. Gotta find some kind of tiny hinges you can use to attach one threaded nipple to the next, that can also lock into place.


----------



## FartinInTheTub

Sarthos said:


> I just tried this in my car. Only problem so far is that sometimes they rotate a bit when I hit potholes or train tracks or something. I've been trying to figure out a method for better adjustability without making them look like crap, getting the wires wrapped up, or having them fall around every time you hit a bump. So far nothing has worked. Gotta find some kind of tiny hinges you can use to attach one threaded nipple to the next, that can also lock into place.


Use some thick rubber washers... it'll keep them steady.


----------



## Sarthos

I just tightened the nuts more. Keeps them steady but then they can't adjust without loosening the nuts. Works fine for me, just wish there was a way to make them lock easier.


----------



## FartinInTheTub

Here's my Scanspeak R3004/60-2000 Ring Radiators mounted in 1.5" pvc caps. I'm glad I'm able to mount these on-axis to fully take advantage of their capabilities...Thanks for the idea.


----------



## FartinInTheTub

Just an update... My imaging and soundstage is phenominal!


----------



## Svendingo

FartinInTheTub said:


> Here's my Scanspeak R3004/60-2000 Ring Radiators mounted in 1.5" pvc caps. I'm glad I'm able to mount these on-axis to fully take advantage of their capabilities...Thanks for the idea.


Fartininthetub, what the heck is that against your garage wall in the second pick? Whatever it is, it sure looks cool. 

Nice pods btw. I'm quite jealous of the tweeters too. 



Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## FartinInTheTub

Thanks for the compliments! You mean that guetto boombox or the Diet Coke? This was my buddy's garage. I'm loving the soundstage... it's actually so dramatic that I literally sat in my car for an hour listening to music. I'm not as fond of the passengar location since I had to angle it differently in order to achieve the right on-axis response... I'm kinda into things being uniform... I think it's ocd or something.


----------



## ErinH

I'm gonna bump this thread because I am doing something similar. I couldn't figure out what parts you used... so I had to come home (my cell phone died while I was out) to search. Now I'm off to HD again... 

Thanks for this thread, though. It's greatly appreciated.


----------



## lovedoc1

I have made a set of these. The problem I keep running in to is the weight of the tweeter making my pod fall forward. My tweets end up pointing down at the dash. Any idea on how to keep these firing forward?


----------



## JsUltimateSounds

nice..


----------



## FartinInTheTub

lovedoc1 said:


> I have made a set of these. The problem I keep running in to is the weight of the tweeter making my pod fall forward. My tweets end up pointing down at the dash. Any idea on how to keep these firing forward?


Use either rubber or letal lock washers and it'll stay put.


----------



## s4turn

went to post in the $2 soundstage thread and Im glad I found this one, as my pods were more than $2 

Im still experimenting with this, however found some spot? light enclosures to house my scan D2004 tweeters.
cost me around $21 nz each, so thast about 15 u.s? and I can move them on their swivel mount (this could be a problem later on though)

Some pics (done the left side now too)


----------



## cnut334

S4turn, do these move when you hit a bump? I like the look of it but don't know if vibrations would wreak havoc on them.


----------



## s4turn

the first one I installed (above) has this problem, however the 2nd one i did I managed to lock in place. (obviously less adjustment)

I think once I get the angles right Im going to try and put some kind of material to jam the hinge up on both to ensure it doesnt happen

Im still toying around with the idea though


**update
just twisted the pods around which now locks them more into position and bringing them closer to the mid !


----------



## Maximilliano

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p184/s4turn/e1bf5ab8.jpg


Man I would like to find some adjustable light mounts similar to these. Might need to make a trip to the marine section of Academy and see what they have. I'm currently making a set of PVC cap pods my self.


----------



## s4turn

a normal lighting shop should have good range?
these are just kitchen down lights

they have been working quite well for me now (especially since I have jammed them in place)


----------



## ErinH

s4turn said:


> went to post in the $2 soundstage thread and Im glad I found this one, as my pods were more than $2
> 
> Im still experimenting with this, however found some spot? light enclosures to house my scan D2004 tweeters.
> cost me around $21 nz each, so thast about 15 u.s? and I can move them on their swivel mount (this could be a problem later on though)
> 
> Some pics (done the left side now too)


Word of wisdom: watch the spacing and crossover points between mid and tweeter. This is a crucial area to get right.


----------



## s4turn

I need to get a new photo of it, the tweeter pods are now hard up against the pillar.

can you provide more info the crossover points for what you mean?

currently have the 12m's LPF at around 4.5khz and the tweeters are around 5.6khz from my dodgy memory (cant remember slopes at this stage)


----------



## Cruzer

i havent read all of this, but my internet says my tweeter has a 1.70 cutout diameter(not overall, but cut out) HD and lowes didnt have but 1.5 and 2". 

what are you guys doing? buying 1.5 and stuffing it in there, or buying 2" and putting stuff around the tweeter to fit?

whats the best thing to fill that big of a gap?


----------



## ErinH

pvc isn't measured by ID. It's OD & schedule (thickness). To get ID you subtract the schedule from the OD.
Nominal Wall Thickness Pipe


----------



## rc10mike

I like the idea of the lighting fixture. I actually have a lighting system sort of like that in one of my rooms! Never even though of making tweeter pods out of them!

Just did a quick search for "track lighting" and wow the possibilities are endless!

For now though, Ill stick with my Focal pods.


----------



## trumpet

I did tweeter spheres mounted to my A-pillars with steel nipples, rubber washers, serrated washers, and the thin nuts. The spheres are dog toy tennis balls which I sprayed with rubberized undercoating. Don't be an idiot like I was and drill your A-pillars by eyeballing it. I think my passenger side ended up ok, but I first drilled into one of the clips. I thought I learned from the first mistake when I went to do the driver's side, but this time I drilled from the back side. At least I got the height where I wanted it.


----------



## Livinloudks

Looks great this is my next project for the truck


----------



## its_bacon12

FWIW: Zaph|Audio

Unless you have some powerful EQ, I'd try to flush mount, or as close as possible.


----------



## rc10mike

its_bacon12 said:


> FWIW: Zaph|Audio
> 
> Unless you have some powerful EQ, I'd try to flush mount, or as close as possible.


A 4" tweeter?


----------



## edavis318

Here's another copy. Gotta say I love the simplicity and the looks.

07 F-150 with Infinity Kappa Perfect tweeters. 2 inch pvc caps


----------



## snaimpally

Cruzer said:


> i havent read all of this, but my internet says my tweeter has a 1.70 cutout diameter(not overall, but cut out) HD and lowes didnt have but 1.5 and 2".
> 
> what are you guys doing? buying 1.5 and stuffing it in there, or buying 2" and putting stuff around the tweeter to fit?
> 
> whats the best thing to fill that big of a gap?


First, you should buy a pod that is as close to the right size as possible. If its a slight gap, use electrical tape around the circumference. If its more than a slight gap, get a roll of Vecro and use the smooth (e.g., felt) side around the circumference. ONLY use the smooth Velcro. Note: I am NOT suggesting you velcro the tweeter into the pod.


----------



## snaimpally

s4turn said:


> went to post in the $2 soundstage thread and Im glad I found this one, as my pods were more than $2
> 
> Im still experimenting with this, however found some spot? light enclosures to house my scan D2004 tweeters.
> cost me around $21 nz each, so thast about 15 u.s? and I can move them on their swivel mount (this could be a problem later on though)
> 
> Some pics (done the left side now too)


Those look awesome. Excellent idea. I looked up and those are the same looking light enclosures on my fan!


----------



## s4turn

lol

I have since changed my speaker setup again, the pods would of surely worked and I did have them working perfectly.

I've decided to extend the mid baffle to now have the tweeters on the same axis


----------



## s4turn

New pics!



















so yeah.. have moved away from using the tweeter pods


----------



## theunderfighter

rc10mike said:


> A 4" tweeter?


My thoughts exactly o.0....


----------



## Cruzer

my dad has some older fisher home theater speakers with a 4" tweeter. he told me it was a tweeter i said no way researched and it is


----------



## NineInchNail

Any way I could make such a pod with my massive Supremo Tweeters?


----------



## Sarthos

How large are they?


----------



## NineInchNail

4" diameter and 2" mounting depth


----------



## p1co_

Thanks for this thread and idea. I drive a 2006 ford focus zx4, which sadly does not come with tweeter mounts. Your idea was really simple to install and looks really nice.


----------



## p1co_




----------



## snaimpally

Nice! Thanks for posting the pics.


----------



## snaimpally

NineInchNail said:


> 4" diameter and 2" mounting depth


Pretty sure the 3" PVC end caps. The inner diameter is well over 3". Take a tweeter into Home Depot and see what fits - that is what I did. 

Or sell them and get the Piccolos - the Morel Supremo Piccolos will fit in a 2" PVC end cap perfectly because the actual diameter of the end cap is 2.5".


----------



## snaimpally

Cruzer said:


> my dad has some older fisher home theater speakers with a 4" tweeter. he told me it was a tweeter i said no way researched and it is


LOL! Most home audio tweeters have a 4" diameter mounting flange. Might want to go look in madisound or partsexpress.


----------



## Cruzer

snaimpally said:


> LOL! Most home audio tweeters have a 4" diameter mounting flange. Might want to go look in madisound or partsexpress.


Goldwood GT-25 4" Cone Tweeter 270-018

LOL!


----------



## snaimpally

Cruzer said:


> Goldwood GT-25 4" Cone Tweeter 270-018
> 
> LOL!


The1st gen Esotar tweeter (110 I think) was well over 4" in diameter - a "frisbee". :laugh:


----------



## snaimpally

NineInchNail said:


> Any way I could make such a pod with my massive Supremo Tweeters?


i was in Home Depot today. The 3" end cap will fit a 4" diameter tweeter.


----------



## stuckinok

Went to home depot today. Found a nice home for my New Micro Precision set up.


----------



## tulse

This thread is great. 

I didn't want to do anything permenat, and I want to be able to adjust my tweeters. I'd like to be able to experiment with aiming, so I used some mini ball heads (camera hardware) I got from amazon:

Amazon.com: Professional Mini Ball Head Camera Mount: Camera & Photo

I drilled and tapped the PVC and screwd in the ball head. It provides infinite adjustability and mounting options. You can bolt it to any surface (dash, a-pillar, etc) with 1/4 or 3/8" hardware. 

I replaced the adjustment screw with my own hex bolt and covered the wiring (runs on the back side through a hole in the dash) and ball head up with some CV joint boots that I cut down to fit. Here's the result:


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

I started to borrow this design for a little different project... 

TS-S101PRS in a "cup"









Finding the 4" was just too big for my dash, I opted for some FR88EX 3" and in usual form, went sideways with the idea... 

First idea... (street 45* used)









Then the idea came.... and everything went kinda sideways... NOTE, A-pillars are covered in 1/4" of SS overkill, and then the "fuzz"


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Overkilled like everything else...









Shagged


















































They seal solidly to the A-pillar via the Overkill acting as a gasket, stuffed with polyfill, I'd say I've got 1/2L of volume maybe more... 



Hope it's not too janky for you guys, it's actually VERY solid...


Just got some TB Bamboos to A/B against the FR88EX..


----------



## DonH

freaking great! doing this on my next rebuild!


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Thank you Sir... 

Sent from the other side using mind bullets...(YapaTalk)


----------



## DonH

just ass a simple idea for other to secure their tweeters, if you have a large enough plastic piece around the actual tweeter why not use some smaller guage all thread drill holes into each end, one through the end cup pvc and one through the tweeter plastic itsels then run the allthread through both and use the propper size nuts on each end. you can paitn it w/e color to match. just a thought for those having a hard time mounting them securely.


----------



## DonH

s4turn said:


> New pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so yeah.. have moved away from using the tweeter pods


yum


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

d_man1 said:


> just ass a simple idea for other to secure their tweeters, if you have a large enough plastic piece around the actual tweeter why not use some smaller guage all thread drill holes into each end, one through the end cup pvc and one through the tweeter plastic itsels then run the allthread through both and use the propper size nuts on each end. you can paitn it w/e color to match. just a thought for those having a hard time mounting them securely.


 
You really didn't look at post 1-3 did you... :laugh:


----------



## legend94

This is one of the best articles I have read in a long time and I am going to try it out. I need help picking a tweeter that will do well in this placement. My mid is located in the upper front part of the door so its going to be fairly close to the tweeter. Which one of these should I go with?

Madisound Speaker Store

Madisound Speaker Store


----------



## dales

innovative idea


----------



## Tominizer

Like those before me have posted, this just solved a design issue I've been pondering over for some time. Thanks for the great idea. Just now waiting for my Dayton ND20's to arrive.


----------



## snaimpally

legend94 said:


> This is one of the best articles I have read in a long time and I am going to try it out. I need help picking a tweeter that will do well in this placement. My mid is located in the upper front part of the door so its going to be fairly close to the tweeter. Which one of these should I go with?
> 
> Madisound Speaker Store
> 
> Madisound Speaker Store


This question is more appropriate for another part of the forum, but anyway both are good choices. The Vifa XT25 is a ring radiator. As such, it should be mounted on-axis. If you can't mount on-axis or close to on-axis don't bother.

In terms of a textile dome, the LPG might be okay, but you should also consider the Seas textile dome.


----------



## slowsedan01

How would this concept work for a 3" mid and a 1" tweeter in a "snowman" shaped pod? Any low budget recommendations for this type of setup?


----------



## derickveliz

slowsedan01 said:


> How would this concept work for a 3" mid and a 1" tweeter in a "snowman" shaped pod? Any low budget recommendations for this type of setup?


Physically your mids would be closer to each other, so your stage will get smaller. Try to get your mids as far from each other this will make your stage wider.

D.


----------



## ErinH

derickveliz said:


> Try to get your mids as far from each other this will make your stage wider.
> 
> D.


This will create serious issues in your polar pattern due to lobing (comb filtering), especially the higher you cross and further you separate the drivers.


----------



## slowsedan01

derickveliz said:


> Physically your mids would be closer to each other, so your stage will get smaller. Try to get your mids as far from each other this will make your stage wider.
> 
> D.


They wouldn't be closer to one another, not any more than they are now. They would be further away tho. My only other option for placement is in the door, one right across the other firing at each other. This is my situation now and my image is horrible.


----------



## derickveliz

bikinpunk said:


> This will create serious issues in your polar pattern due to lobing (comb filtering), especially the higher you cross and further you separate the drivers.


I'm sorry but I'm not saying to separate Mid from Tweeter, *what I mean is right driver from left driver;* my point here is with pods your drivers get closer together in a car, then stage is not as wide. 

I know that if running a passive system, Mid and Tweeter have to be as close as possible. And for Active systems that doesn't matter.

I'm sorry again I should have been more specific. 

.


----------



## derickveliz

slowsedan01 said:


> They wouldn't be closer to one another, not any more than they are now. They would be further away tho. My only other option for placement is in the door, one right across the other firing at each other. This is my situation now and my image is horrible.



*I bet they would!* try to measure the distance between right and left, look at these 2 images, same car, same mids, can you tell that in picture 1 the Mids are closer to each other? than in picture 2, yes they are physically closer.

picture 1 "narrow stage":









Picture 2 "wider stage":










and just for the record, trying to accomplish a wider stage the Mids now are in the kick area for better PLDs, wider, deeper stage, and center image is up high:


----------



## slowsedan01

Thanks for your help, I responded to the email you sent.


----------



## ChaunB3400

WOW, how did I not see this before, I will be doing this in the morning


----------



## art1618

this thread... just made and install for me soooooooo much easier. 
the lurking pays off on this site so greatly, and thanks to everyone who posted pics, now im very confident on how to do it.


----------



## DonH

did mine yesterday


----------



## slowsedan01

d_man1 said:


> did mine yesterday


What are your thoughts on them? How do they sound?


----------



## DonH

slowsedan01 said:


> What are your thoughts on them? How do they sound?


my tweeters sound great. the pods look nice and dont look cheap. they are aimed perfect so yeah they sound great


----------



## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Bad ass man... Necessity is the mother of invention... we sometimes miss this walking through home depot... I see in textures and colors, so my mind is constantly putting task orientated things together... 

An idea can spark just about anything these days, the hardest part is knowing what to google...


----------



## Gadget01

I just finished making adapter rings to fill the gap around the tweeter.

Ready for undercoating and paint. Thanks to the OP for this great idea.


----------



## ChaunB3400

Put mine in the other day. Had a set of Eclipse SC8365 midranges until one of them bit the dust so I swapped them with a set of Vibe 3d space midranges drivers and I must say the Vibes surprised me they sound great..Sorry for the cell phone pics


----------



## motion vega

has anyone done this in a c4 corvette? ive got the new kenwood 7 inch components i intend to run passive, ive got the 7s in the doors with plates to replace the junk bose, but im unsure about tweeter placement, i had been thinking about putting them down in front and below the woofer, or flushing them into the 4x6 dash holes, i had even been thingong about using some pvc to angle them towards the listener, but hadnt made the leap to pod logic yet.......


----------



## Atlanta007

Gadget01 said:


> I just finished making adapter rings to fill the gap around the tweeter.
> 
> Ready for undercoating and paint. Thanks to the OP for this great idea.


Great job. Curious to know what you used use for the adaptor rings?


----------



## its_bacon12

Worth a read based on what you guys are doing. Surface mounting woofers and tweeters


----------



## Gadget01

Atlanta007 said:


> Great job. Curious to know what you used use for the adaptor rings?


ABS, cut from about 1/4" thick sheet I snagged from eBay a few years ago that has a nice OEM-ish textured finish on one side, smooth on the other.

I start by cutting out a somewhat circular shape with a bandsaw. Drilled out the center with a uni-bit to about an inch, big enough for a 3-way lathe chuck to grab. The lathe makes it easy to cut the outside to a perfectly round shape and to the desired outside diameter, then cut the inner hole to almost match the tweeter's body diameter. Then I cut a step the outer ledge of the ring similar to a router rabbit cut so it fits down into cup to keep it firmly centered. The last bit taken from the inside diameter is with a roll of sandpaper to sneak up on just the right size for the tweeter to press in with a bit of effort.

It took a good chunk of an afternoon since I made a few throwaway rings in the process, but the end result was worthy. They're nice enough to be used for the final glassed installation into the A-pillars.


----------



## Shadowmarx

[/IMG]Thought I'd share my 5 dollar Dash speaker Pods...
I made these from Plumbing stack flashings
And PVC caps


----------



## Shadowmarx

Here is almost finished...







[/IMG]


----------



## Shadowmarx

Drivers side...

And both side...







[/IMG]


----------



## RandyJ75

motion vega said:


> has anyone done this in a c4 corvette? ive got the new kenwood 7 inch components i intend to run passive, ive got the 7s in the doors with plates to replace the junk bose, but im unsure about tweeter placement, i had been thinking about putting them down in front and below the woofer, or flushing them into the 4x6 dash holes, i had even been thingong about using some pvc to angle them towards the listener, but hadnt made the leap to pod logic yet.......


Yes, I did. Really improved the sound stage, raised it up to the dash.


----------



## Babs

Here's a thought.. 

Anyone tried using the round closed end of the pvc cup? Drilling a hole in center large enough for a rear-mounted tweet, maybe a Vifa OX, then machining in a wave guide of sorts, for the dome to sit in. Then the rounded surface would act to help with diffraction distortion, and provide a rather clean look for a rear-mounted flange-less tweet. 

If the dome remained recessed inside the plane of the cup, you could paint the thing, then simply stretch grill cloth over it, like a sock, to hide the tweet.

Then for mounting, a guy could cut the open side at a steep angle, so it could be flush-mounted to something flat. 

Just throwin' it out there given the rather nice rounded shape of the end-cap and thickness of the PVC material to work with. Might be a fun project outside the box.


----------



## eighty5iv

subscribed. I know what I am doing this weekend. thanks OP.


----------



## idontcarehoe

Babs said:


> Here's a thought..
> 
> Anyone tried using the round closed end of the pvc cup? Drilling a hole in center large enough for a rear-mounted tweet, maybe a Vifa OX, then machining in a wave guide of sorts, for the dome to sit in. Then the rounded surface would act to help with diffraction distortion, and provide a rather clean look for a rear-mounted flange-less tweet.
> 
> If the dome remained recessed inside the plane of the cup, you could paint the thing, then simply stretch grill cloth over it, like a sock, to hide the tweet.
> 
> Then for mounting, a guy could cut the open side at a steep angle, so it could be flush-mounted to something flat.
> 
> Just throwin' it out there given the rather nice rounded shape of the end-cap and thickness of the PVC material to work with. Might be a fun project outside the box.


I'm with ya babs, I was thinking of using bell ends, electrical PVC fittings used for stubbing up conduit to a floor mounted enclosure and mount the tweeter inside and mount the PVC fitting itself before I ever saw this end cap thread such a simple idea, I'm going to grab a few in different sizes and see what I can come up with


----------



## Babs

Yeah I'm seriously considering trying to flush in either the vifa's or some SEAS alums I've got handy.


----------



## vulgamore89

Has anyone tried this with the vifa ne25vts


----------



## heyhi

Would this work with 2.5 inch? How do you hold the speaker in place?


----------



## snaimpally

heyhi said:


> Would this work with 2.5 inch? How do you hold the speaker in place?


Read the thread. I have seen tweeter pods used for 4" Morels. There are end caps with a diameter just under 4". 

Get the threaded nipples, normally used to thread lamp cord in a lamp, and use those to attach the PVC cap to the A-Pillar (or sail panel or whatever). The nipple serves 2 purposes: (1) to attach the PVC cap - just use a washer plus nut on either side (e.g., inside the PVC cap and inside the pillar/sail) and (2) enables you to thread the speaker wire through, from the inside of the PVC cap to the inside of the pillar/sail, thereby keeping the wire out of sight.


----------



## SouthSyde

snaimpally said:


> Read the thread. I have seen tweeter pods used for 4" Morels. There are end caps with a diameter just under 4".
> 
> Get the threaded nipples, normally used to thread lamp cord in a lamp, and use those to attach the PVC cap to the A-Pillar (or sail panel or whatever). The nipple serves 2 purposes: (1) to attach the PVC cap - just use a washer plus nut on either side (e.g., inside the PVC cap and inside the pillar/sail) and (2) enables you to thread the speaker wire through, from the inside of the PVC cap to the inside of the pillar/sail, thereby keeping the wire out of sight.


I think a "nipple" serves more than just those two purposes Shiv...


----------



## nstaln

Thank you for posting this great tip! I just picked up (2) 2in caps and they fit my Morel Supremo Piccolos like a glove. 2 caps, 1 pack of nuts and nipples: under $9. 

Kudos sir!


----------



## santiagodraco

Kudos to SublimeZ for this great idea! Working on tweeter pods for my FX as we speak.


----------



## snaimpally

santiagodraco said:


> Kudos to SublimeZ for this great idea! Working on tweeter pods for my FX as we speak.


Actually, it was Glenn (GLN305) that came up with this idea. I just thought it would be useful to document it. Glenn has been competing since he was a teenager and does amazing install and fabrication work. Check out his build log - he is currently sponsored by Ground Zero so head over to their section.


----------



## snaimpally

From the first post:



snaimpally said:


> My friend *Glenn (GLN305)*, has come up with a very inexpensive solution for tweeter mounting that allows for easy swapping out of tweeters, makes it easy to mount tweeters on-axis, provides a certain degree of adjustability, and makes the mounting look nice.


----------



## GreenBook

I just wanted to come here and say thank you to this site and thread for the idea. Someone linked this thread on reddit and since I was already working on my front stage I decided to give it a shot. Much better look and imaging than my old location in the trim behind the side mirrors.










My car's in the shop right now so I can't get a better picture, but I'm quite happy with them. Thank You!


----------



## mikelycka

great idea thanks with will help with my leased car


----------



## bass_lover1

Wanted to add my $.02 to this thread.

I did this the other day on my Passat, to get rid of the never finished tweeter pods I made from fiberglass a few years ago. I ran into some headaches on my install and just wanted to share some tips for those looking to do this.

If you buy the Westinghouse bits like in the OP, the dowel is just about 3/8" and the nuts are 14mm. I just had to round out the hole a bit to get the dowel to fit properly. A 14mm socket works perfectly to tighten the nuts down. I put one on either side of my sail panel to lock the dowel into place, and another to hold the PVC in place. Using that nut between the panel and PVC helps give a flatter surface for your PVC cap, it was much sturdier with it than without.

Also, typical wire connectors from parts stores in the 12awg variety (yellow protection sleeves) wont fit through the dowel, you'll have to secure the connections after threading the wires. I also ended up doing a male/female connection behind my sail panel so I could remove it without having to cut the wires, because obviously the connectors won't thread back through the dowel.

I used a 2" PVC cap from HD, coupled with 1/4"x1.5" rubberized weatherstripping to secure my small format Vifa XT25s, I added two extra pads of weatherstripping opposite one another to get the right amount of pressure on the tweeter.

Otherwise, I love this idea, so simple yet effective. Now to just re-drill the driver side, of course I got the passenger side aiming perfect on the first go. Also I need to paint them but I wanted to see if I liked them first before spending the coin on a can of spray paint I'll probably only use once.


----------



## GLN305

It's hard to believe how my simple idea that I came up with by lazing around Home Depot has helped so many people...this rocks! Glad to see the innovation added.


----------



## sierrarider

Subscribed so I can view pictures later


----------



## nstaln

Morel Supremo Piccolo's
2inch pvc cap tweeter pods
2010 Nissan Rogue






Thanks for the great idea!


----------



## itr sol

Hey OP I sent you a pm. GLN305, I don't suppose you'd make these to order? I have a build I need help with in Houston if you'd be willing to talk about it...?


----------



## snaimpally

itr sol said:


> Hey OP I sent you a pm. GLN305, I don't suppose you'd make these to order? I have a build I need help with in Houston if you'd be willing to talk about it...?


GLN305 has moved from Austin to Virginia unfortunately. 

I _highly _recommend talking to Chris Pate at Mobile Toys in College Station. I had Chris do an install for me recently and he and his crew did an awesome job.

You might also talk to SouthSyde and AudioJunkie as both are very experienced and at the very least, may be able to recommend an installer.


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## GLN305

snaimpally said:


> GLN305 has moved from Austin to Virginia unfortunately.
> 
> I _highly _recommend talking to Chris Pate at Mobile Toys in College Station. I had Chris do an install for me recently and he and his crew did an awesome job.
> 
> You might also talk to SouthSyde and AudioJunkie as both are very experienced and at the very least, may be able to recommend an installer.


If you are looking to take your car somewhere and make sure it's done right, these recommendations are as good as it gets. If they can't do what you want, it probably can't be done.


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## legend94

GLN305 said:


> If you are looking to take your car somewhere and make sure it's done right, these recommendations are as good as it gets. If they can't do what you want, it probably can't be done.


Which part of Virginia are you?


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## req

now around norfolk he lives... mmmhhm.


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## Gnfanatic

guys, my chevy cruze has tweeters in the A-pillars from the fac. my sea's do not fit in the fac spot. So should I go for the A pillar and hopefully it will look OK or try above the door, next to the mirror?

thanks for the idea!!


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## legend94

Gnfanatic said:


> guys, my chevy cruze has tweeters in the A-pillars from the fac. my sea's do not fit in the fac spot. So should I go for the A pillar and hopefully it will look OK or try above the door, next to the mirror?
> 
> thanks for the idea!!


If you have the ability to test listen in both spots I would encourage that. 

Also a photo would help me since I'm not a mass installer and am not familiar with your vehicle.


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## Gnfanatic

Here are the pics. I mounted the sea's tweeter in one of the pillars and looks like crap. Now the fac design has that integrated screen. So I am now sure if I mount and external tweeter pod next to it will look retarded to. any idea's?

thanks!


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## Wheels_78

Did anyone doing this ever have any trouble with the bedliner sticking to the pvc?


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## TallTexan

Wheels_78: Did you rough sand the pvc prior to spraying it with bedliner?

GnFantic: (I know its been awhile since the post). Maybe try and cut the PVC on a 45 degree to create something to both cover the stock location and to better aim the speakers.

While I was waiting on the Kaxbltwt to come in, I needed a replacement for my Dynaudio MD100 (one tweet died). I thought I'd try one of the cheaper DIY favs: the Vifa XT25SC90-4. I snagged a pair from speakeraddict on ebay. I'll have to say, I can see what the fuss is over these, they are dam good speakers and a steal at this price and should be on anyone's budget (or not so budget) build.

Here is my contribution to this thread and general idea: cut the PVC on 45 degree. Here is a pic of two: one 3" is for my FaitalPro 3FE22 3 inchers (future plans) and the other is 2" for the Vifa XT25 SC90s. Another advantage to this idea is you only need to cut one 45 because the leftover from the first cut becomes the second pod.









Top view of driver's side PVC pod covered in left over grey MLV that kind matched my interior. The MLV also increased the diameter of the pipe just enough to make up for the slightly larger XT25 faceplate. Only took me a couple hours to throw these together, I'm sure with a little more attention to detail they could look real nice.









Drivers side angled more or less to passenger head rest. Could have made the MLV wrap around a little more on the inside.









Passenger side. Angled to drivers head.









Back side showing how I fastened them.


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## Wheels_78

When I posted that I hadn't sprayed mine yet, just looking for feedback.


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## miniSQ

Wheels_78 said:


> When I posted that I hadn't sprayed mine yet, just looking for feedback.


i cut mine from pvc pipe and just put them on my dash.



i now have a dash mat and made it a little more permanent. Just no pictures yet.


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## chasinbass

View attachment 57710


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View attachment 57711


View attachment 57712


View attachment 57713


View attachment 57714


View attachment 57710


This is my version, for my CDT HD 100s. I used 1/4 airhose swivels instead of all thread so I could make them adjustable -atleast till i got them aimed and I ended up having to take swivels apart and adding o rings so they were tight and they would stay put. Then I got them aimed then I painted up some pvc flex conduit to cover the swivles and I think they came out pretty good. Now I am making somemore for a set of Vifas xt25s


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## peenemunde

Sub'd 

This thread is awesome and full of fun ideas!


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## McKinneyMike

chasinbass said:


> This is my version, for my CDT HD 100s. I used 1/4 airhose swivels instead of all thread so I could make them adjustable -atleast till i got them aimed and I ended up having to take swivels apart and adding o rings so they were tight and they would stay put.


O-rings? I purchased the same swivels to do what you have done, but was thinking of epoxying the swivel into place once aimed. What size and type of o-ring did you use. Any photos of the final assembly?


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## chasinbass

McKinneyMike said:


> O-rings? I purchased the same swivels to do what you have done, but was thinking of epoxying the swivel into place once aimed. What size and type of o-ring did you use. Any photos of the final assembly?


 The smooth part on the socket unscrews ( use a rag and pliers as not to tear up the brass and it will come apart. I took it to the hardware store and found some that fit kitchen faucets and stuck it inside over the original one and screwed it back together. They stay tight and right where you put them. I wanted to cover the swivels and just got a piece of pvc electrical flex conduit - .89 cent for a foot . painted it and covered the swivels. I will give you a tip too. If you heat conduit up with heat gun you can make it mold to your cups really easy and makes it look alot cleaner than a 90 degree cut mating up to curved cup. also if you need them to be bent a little because of aiming they will stay that way when they cool off. Just do it before you paint them of course. I am doing a new set now for some bigger Vifa xt25 bg double magnets i want to try.I hope they are strong enough to hold them up ? This mod is so awesome for changing out tweeters as your not cutting up your car for something you may or may not like LOL.


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## chasinbass

McKinneyMike said:


> O-rings? I purchased the same swivels to do what you have done, but was thinking of epoxying the swivel into place once aimed. What size and type of o-ring did you use. Any photos of the final assembly?


I dont know if these help ? Also if you look and i think it was 1/2 bit I used so practice drill something till you find right diameter and the nipples will thread into plastic cup and a pillar trim and use a lock nut on the back of pillar trim panel and your done lol


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## McKinneyMike

chasinbass said:


> I dont know if these help ? Also if you look and i think it was 1/2 bit I used so practice drill something till you find right diameter and the nipples will thread into plastic cup and a pillar trim and use a lock nut on the back of pillar trim panel and your done lol


Thanks for the input!


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## chasinbass

McKinneyMike said:


> Thanks for the input!


Anytime !


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## chasinbass

Tweeker pods 8.1 lol Thats what my boss thought I said ha ha ! Kinda true though since I have been in tweeker mode its like my fourth or fifth set now. I decided to use the new camera swivel mounts I found on ebay and I really like them better because they will do a 90 and air hose fittings didn't allow enough movement for my application and they are much closer to the pillar -old one stuck out to far for my liking.They also lock down where you put them.Since I am going to try some new tweeters I just reused the cups off the old ones and they came out nice, I think anyways. Its probably like the sugar pill effect but i mounted them up and re ran auto TA again and they sound better to me now lol! First pic is of my Alt and Baterys being happy in this cold weather !


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## chasinbass

TallTexan said:


> Wheels_78: Did you rough sand the pvc prior to spraying it with bedliner?
> 
> GnFantic: (I know its been awhile since the post). Maybe try and cut the PVC on a 45 degree to create something to both cover the stock location and to better aim the speakers.
> 
> While I was waiting on the Kaxbltwt to come in, I needed a replacement for my Dynaudio MD100 (one tweet died). I thought I'd try one of the cheaper DIY favs: the Vifa XT25SC90-4. I snagged a pair from speakeraddict on ebay. I'll have to say, I can see what the fuss is over these, they are dam good speakers and a steal at this price and should be on anyone's budget (or not so budget) build.
> 
> Here is my contribution to this thread and general idea: cut the PVC on 45 degree. Here is a pic of two: one 3" is for my FaitalPro 3FE22 3 inchers (future plans) and the other is 2" for the Vifa XT25 SC90s. Another advantage to this idea is you only need to cut one 45 because the leftover from the first cut becomes the second pod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view of driver's side PVC pod covered in left over grey MLV that kind matched my interior. The MLV also increased the diameter of the pipe just enough to make up for the slightly larger XT25 faceplate. Only took me a couple hours to throw these together, I'm sure with a little more attention to detail they could look real nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drivers side angled more or less to passenger head rest. Could have made the MLV wrap around a little more on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Passenger side. Angled to drivers head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back side showing how I fastened them.


Did the Vifa xt25SC90 s fit in 2 " PVC snugley enough to hold them in place or what did you use to hold them in ? I got some coming and wanted to get new cups ready.


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## shammyhavik

I'm about to be all over this, the pods will go in a 06 Sonata LX

And the tweeters are Cadence Xt-20's

Like most of the other people who do this i'm looking for something a little less permanent but still very efficient with looks, maneuverability, and practicality


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## TallTexan

Sent this to chaseinbase about the vifas and 2" PVC. Thought it might be useful to others:

Sorry I didn't see you post/question on 2" PVC and the Vifa xt25SC90s. They fit inside OK, but the outside diameter is just a touch wider than the PVC. Thus I wrapped the PVC in vinyl that was fairly think to make up the difference (plus give it a more finished look). I also added a little part inside ring so the screws had something else to grab onto since the holes don't line up exactly (or more like fully) with the PVC edge.

Check out Schedule 40 & 80 Pipe Dimensions and keep in mind that with adapters from one size to the other, you can get couplers with inside diameters the same as outside of standards.


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## MAIDEN69

Any new solutions for the swivel mount. A micro version of a Ram mount would work if I could find one.


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## cjbrownco

Subscribed, got to try this soon


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## Ted J

MAIDEN69 said:


> Any new solutions for the swivel mount. A micro version of a Ram mount would work if I could find one.


I know this is bringing back a thread from the dead but unless I missed it has anybody found any threaded nipples with a swivel on them to use?


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## TallTexan

Ted J said:


> I know this is bringing back a thread from the dead but unless I missed it has anybody found any threaded nipples with a swivel on them to use?


Google: bostitch swivel plug


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## Landshark77

TallTexan said:


> Google: bostitch swivel plug


I about to embark on my tweeter pod project and wanted to ask how the bostich swivel plug worked out?


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## Majik

Here's a good swivel option, though more expensive and shipped from Germany.

*Tweeters Ball Joint Set Angle Adjustable for Tweeters Housing | eBay *


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## Landshark77

Majik said:


> Here's a good swivel option, though more expensive and shipped from Germany.
> 
> *Tweeters Ball Joint Set Angle Adjustable for Tweeters Housing | eBay *


I might give those a shot at some point, but right now I'm going with the standard threaded tube approach. The plastidip is drying now, so will probably finish install tomorrow.


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## lucas569

so i went to home depot and got some end caps but they have writing molded in.  anyone know where to buy ones with smooth finish?


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## glockcoma

lucas569 said:


> so i went to home depot and got some end caps but they have writing molded in.  anyone know where to buy ones with smooth finish?




I believe lowes sells the smooth ones. 
Check the outdoor underground plastic piping for lawn sprinklers. They have them in black.


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## lucas569

glockcoma said:


> I believe lowes sells the smooth ones.
> Check the outdoor underground plastic piping for lawn sprinklers. They have them in black.


thanks ill give it a shot. lowes is an hour away from my house. home depot 3 minutes lol. go figure.


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## lucas569

glockcoma said:


> I believe lowes sells the smooth ones.
> Check the outdoor underground plastic piping for lawn sprinklers. They have them in black.


UPDATE: 

went to Lowes they carry the same kind/brand. No luck there, going to try a local plumbing store nearby see if I have luck there. If anyone knows where to buy these with smooth finish lmk. Other wise its sanding and priming for these babies


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## Majik

lucas569 said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> went to Lowes they carry the same kind/brand. No luck there, going to try a local plumbing store nearby see if I have luck there. If anyone knows where to buy these with smooth finish lmk. Other wise its sanding and priming for these babies


If you're not on a time constraint, you can just order a couple.
*
1-1/2" PVC End Cap Furniture Grade - Black *


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## lucas569

thanks for the link!


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## JohnKuthe...

What do you screw them into to mount them?

John Kuthe...


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## Niebur3

^^^Most people do the a-pillar.


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## JohnKuthe...

Niebur3 said:


> ^^^Most people do the a-pillar.


Thanks! Great idea and implementation! I'm gonna think about this. Wonder if I could get a ball joint on that mounting post to allow better flexibility of the aiming of the tweeters.

John Kuthe...


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## JohnKuthe...

Landshark77 said:


> I might give those a shot at some point, but right now I'm going with the standard threaded tube approach. The plastidip is drying now, so will probably finish install tomorrow.


Good old fashioned German engineering!  Just what I was looking for!

John Kuthe...


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## JohnKuthe...

OMG look what I found by Googling "threaded lamp swivel mounts":

Lamp Parts, Lighting Parts, Lamp Glass and Chandelier parts - Grand Brass Lamp Parts and Lighting Parts Super Store

More too, this was just one search hit!

Problem is, threading the mounting post into thin sheet metal is not a very good mount. I wonder if they make RivNuts that large threaded tube size? RivNuts are awesome, I installed 6-32 Rivnuts to mount most of my speakers and I got some stainless steel 6-32 machine screws and washers to mount my speakers. RivNuts are great because then you can have a good machine threaded mount. Much more durable than sheet metal screws. You can take them out and replace them many many times, easily!

John Kuthe...


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## chasinbass

lucas569 said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> 
> 
> went to Lowes they carry the same kind/brand. No luck there, going to try a local plumbing store nearby see if I have luck there. If anyone knows where to buy these with smooth finish lmk. Other wise its sanding and priming for these babies




Dude the writing moulded in sands off very easily then prime and paint , I mean like 10 min of work if you can't find the smooth ones . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jheitt142

A heads up for any one stumbling across this from Canada. The caps you want are in the irrigation section ?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## fulletal7777

I know this thread is somewhat dead, but can anyone tell me how yall held the tweeter onto the pvc cap? I get everything except for how to tweeter is actually held in place. I'm thinking its where you said to wrap it in electrical tape until the tweeter will slide in there but also be thick enough where you can to forcefully push it in there. Definately going to do this for my truck.

Thanks


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## nstaln

fulletal7777 said:


> I know this thread is somewhat dead, but can anyone tell me how yall held the tweeter onto the pvc cap? I get everything except for how to tweeter is actually held in place. I'm thinking its where you said to wrap it in electrical tape until the tweeter will slide in there but also be thick enough where you can to forcefully push it in there. Definately going to do this for my truck.
> 
> Thanks


It really depends on the tweeter being used...

I have created pods for Morel Supremo's that had bolt holes on the frame. My current pods house AudioFrog GB10's that have a treaded hole on the back of the tweeter casing itself...a just drilled a hole in the back of the pod, got the appropriate screw from Home Depot and secured it. If you don't have 'factory' type mounting options then it's time to get creative.


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## chasinbass

Yes or a little silicone, silicone will peel off later if you do something else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fulletal7777

Great idea with the silicon. Thanks for the ideas guys


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## DigMINN

So you're just putting a little silicone around the lip of the PVC for the tweeter to adhese to? Something like: 

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI

?


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## chasinbass

Yup and just put a little on and put them in place I only used a dab in about four places and stuck them in and they have held fine and I have 153 db sub stage. Try not to use enough that it squeezes out or make sure you get it wiped off quick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bustamove

snaimpally said:


> Do you buy tweeters and swap out tweeters regularly? Do you want a way to be able to easily mount tweeters on-axis and make them look nice? Do you want to mount tweeters up on your A-pillars to avoid as many diffracting surfaces as possible?
> 
> If you answered yes to any one of these questions, I have just the solution for you!! My friend Glenn (GLN305), has come up with a very inexpensive solution for tweeter mounting that allows for easy swapping out of tweeters, makes it easy to mount tweeters on-axis, provides a certain degree of adjustability, and makes the mounting look nice. Glenn was kind enough to install a pair of Scanspeak Illuminator 2004-6020 tweeters in the A-pillars of my Mazdaspeed 3 and so I took pictures so that I could share his very innovative design with others on the forum.
> 
> *Parts*: *(1) 2 x PVC end caps* (find ones that fit your tweeters, the ones in the picture are 1.5" diameter; some tweeters may need bigger end caps), *(2) threaded pipes* (in Home Depot these are called steel nipples. Yes, the jokes about nuts and nipples are endless) these are threaded and used in lamps to thread the power cord through), *(3) hex nuts*, a *(4) a can of bed liner* to create texture, and *(5) optionally, a can of spray paint* in a color that matches your car.


New here looking for ideas , for my x 65c , the pictures arent available to see ??


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## miniSQ

Bustamove said:


> New here looking for ideas , for my x 65c , the pictures arent available to see ??


Try this thread 








Show off your midrange/tweet a-pillars!


So I am planning on going a different route now, with midbass in the kicks and the midrange/tweet in the pillars. Just trying to get some ideas. Show me what you got!! So far loving minibox's pillars... thank you!!




www.diymobileaudio.com


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## ScaryfatkidGT

Bustamove said:


> New here looking for ideas , for my x 65c , the pictures arent available to see ??





miniSQ said:


> Try this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Show off your midrange/tweet a-pillars!
> 
> 
> So I am planning on going a different route now, with midbass in the kicks and the midrange/tweet in the pillars. Just trying to get some ideas. Show me what you got!! So far loving minibox's pillars... thank you!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.diymobileaudio.com


Goddamn Photobucket BS...


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