# 2003 Audi RS6: Slowly updating old install



## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Okay, a few members asked me to post the system and setup once I figured out what was what so here we go!
Source: Alpine IVA-W205
Processor: Alpine PXA-H701
Navigation: Alpine KCE-900E & NVE-N872A
Sat: Alpine Sirius but have no idea what model, its big and old.
Aux: Has RCA rear seat system and KCE-422i iPod adapter.
Front Speakers: Morel Elate 503 Active
Rear Speakers: Morel Elate 502 Active
Subwoofer: Alpine SWR-1022D
Amplifiers: Two McIntosh MCC406Ms (will call Mac1 and Mac2)


The DSPs F1 channels feed 1&2 on Mac1 and use the DSPs crossover high pass at 12db @ 4k and run the front tweeters.
The DSPs F2 channels feed Mac1s channels 3-6 band passed 12db at 80hz high passed and 4khz low pass. The amps internal crossover takes care of the front mid/mid-bass. Channels 5&6 run the front 5.25" to 500hz and then channels 3&4 run the 3" mids from 500hz to 4khz.
Problem here is my time alignment effects the dash mounted mids and door mounted mid bass at the same time delay so setting is tricky. The tweeters time alignment can be set separately. 


The DSPs rear channels feed Mac2 channels 1-4 with a 12db high pass @ 100hz and then Mac2s crossovers take over with channels 1&2 feeding the tweeters with a 4khz high pass and channels 3&4 feeding the rear 5.25" mids with a 4khz low pass.
The DSP feeds its sub output to Mac2s channels 5&6 with an 18db low pass at 80hz. They are bridged at 4 ohms to the Alpine SWR-1022DThat 400 watts is not nearly enough for that Alpine sub. It wants power!
I hope to have the sub changed out by this weekend for a Boston G51044 that will probably have its cone changed in favor of the G5104. I know that sub can do well on 200 watts but 400 would be better.  Wish the McIntosh could support a 2 ohm bridged load.
The subwoofer enclosure is custom formed to the car and is somewhere between .68 and .75 by my best calculations. It has apx 3/4lb of pollyfill in it. I know the Boston works perfect (for my taste) in a .51-.61 box and after figuring in basket displacement it may be just right. I know t .51 I like a little pollyfill and at .61 I like it empty, thats just me. Ya'll do what you like. 


I still have not pulled the door cards to see how the 5.25s are mounted and if there is any sound material in there but will soon.
Now the dang Alpine equipment has somehow gotten me to like it after I figured it all out. Yeah its old but its clean and the DSP aint half bad. 3 way active front would be better but this works. My biggest issue is I want the KCE-422i gone and replaced with a KCA-620M but cant find one to save my life! I thought I was okay with the iPod interface as it navigates nice but it does not charge the phone and that means I have to remember to pull it out every other day to charge it. I want to change to a simple USB and I can live happily with what I have. 



So does anyone know where I can find a KCA-620M USB adapter?


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Oh yeah, since all the links are down and the manual says go to a now non working Alpine site does anyone know how to get and download new background images for the deck?



And something else. I found a button near my parking brake. Not sure what it does exactly. I was playing with it in the drive through the other night and after pressing it a couple times I heard the faintest bing out of the driver speaker and a very very faint femail voice that sounded Asian say something that sounded like Origato (sp?). Then the deck flashed something about rear input and then the screen went blank and it stopped playing my music. LOL Pressing the source button turned it back on.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Alpine KCA-620M USB/MP3/WMA Interface Adapter for Alpine stereos at Onlinecarstereo.com


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



azngotskills said:


> Alpine KCA-620M USB/MP3/WMA Interface Adapter for Alpine stereos at Onlinecarstereo.com


Every single time I have ordered from them I wait and wait and then call and find out they don't have it in stock and don't know when they will have it if ever. It then takes a month to get my money back. I can promise you they do not have one in stock.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Don't bother with the KCA-620M. I was going to buy one at one time, but everything I read about it was terrible. You may want to do some reading on it for yourself before you buy one. 

You may need a 12v-5v converter plug to charge the phone. I'm not sure about the KCE-422i, but the KCA-420i needed one to charge my iphone. It charges my older classic Gen 5.5 without it.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Alpine KCA-620M USB Adapter Add a USB port to your compatible Alpine stereo at Crutchfield.com

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Alpine KCA-620M USB-MP3/WMA Adapter for Ai-Net System

Alpine KCA-620M: USB interface for Ai-Net - Page 2


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

I have read all the reviews and issues people have had. Its issues I am aware of and know what needs to be done to make it work properly. The one thing you cant fix is the restarting from the first file on powerup. That sucks. Also the search problems were mainly the single din guys.

Really what I should do is yank all of it out and get the current gen Alpine DSP and DD deck but I habe other things to spend money on right now. So I will just stick with what I have. Phone has 64g of space and I can just fill it up and feed via Bluetooth.


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

why not take the outputs currently controlling the tweeters off the dsp, and have them control the mid and tweeter? since it sounds like the amp crossovers are flexible enough to do this..then you have time alinement for the mid and tweet together and the midbasses separate. I cant see the pics so this might be a bad idea if the tweeters aren't in the dash near the mids.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



Lycancatt said:


> why not take the outputs currently controlling the tweeters off the dsp, and have them control the mid and tweeter? since it sounds like the amp crossovers are flexible enough to do this..then you have time alinement for the mid and tweet together and the midbasses separate. I cant see the pics so this might be a bad idea if the tweeters aren't in the dash near the mids.


Stock Audi RS6 doors. The mid-woofers are next to your chins, the tweeters are just below shoulder level also in the door apx 2.5' from your head near the door handles and then the mids fire straight up into the windshield near the corners of the dash apx 4" from the windshield and about 4' from your head. It is not ideal but was good for back in 2006. I find that if I just act as if I were TAing the mids I am able to get the sound stage about eye level and just a tad wider than the car. Frank Sinatra is just where he should be, under the center mirror.
I think another part of it is the decks onboard crossover. I think the mid and mid-woofer are on the same output channels because I dont think its high pass crossover can go as low as 500hz. I haven't tested it but it makes sense since it is designed for an active two way.


I was all excited over what this car had because i thought "Great, dont have to do a system in it!" but some stuff needs updating. I need a faster interface deck with better display and more inputs. A current 910 and whatever the current Alpine DSP is would be so much better. Can dump the bluetooth module, iPod adapter, rear DVD/NAV player, NAV adapter, Sirius module and have a working dang USB! LOL

Also I like the Morels just fine but havent used my truck in a week and just drove it and hot damn the Sinfonis sound soooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better taht the Morels almost sound dead.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

So the Audi is being towed off to the dealer (118 miles) tomorrow for who knows how long while they confirm if I know what I am talking about or if just an average idiot that _thinks_ they know what they are talking about. Once they see I am right they should replace the fuel tank for free but I know they are going to try and weasel something out of me.
So that means I can't play with my unicorn that showed up today. The one stereo component I most regret selling. I lucked out and found a NIB G510-44 (soon to be converted to a G510-4) that is just perfect. I never thought I would see a new one. Finding out Boston makes cones for them again is just gravy. I have a few people with clean used ones for much cheaper and am going to get a second one just in case. Also going to order over $500 in spare 4 ohm, cones. 

I know we all have different tastes in subs. Some love XBL, some hate it. Some want hard kick at 30hz and some want them to play notes you cant hear. For me I have never heard a 10" I like better. Key words "*I like better*" I can not wait to pull the Type R and put her in. I did forget how massive the basket is and even though its the same depth as the Type r version I have I think the motor structure may be too big around. Have to then decide if I want to invert it or make a spacer. Actually the MDF one they send to protect the surround is about perfect! In the last picture with it sitting cone down it is on the MDF spacer.


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

boston makes a fantastic sub, and it'll be a way better match to the power you have on tap.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



Lycancatt said:


> boston makes a fantastic sub, and it'll be a way better match to the power you have on tap.


I agree. I ran one off the 250 watt channel on a 5 channel JL and not only did it sound better but was easily 3x as loud as the Alpine is on 400watts.


And before the peanut gallery chimes in, the rear seats are folded down in the Audi and the Mark VIIIs did not have folding seats, have very thick and dense foam on the seats plus a sound barrier and the rear deck has only a half dozen bolt holes for a 10mm bolt and the hole to the center brake light bulb.


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Nice find man glad they make new recones for you as well.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Just throwing it out there. Have you considered an older Ipod classic that charges off 12v that you could load with music and leave in the trunk attached to the KCE-422i. I have a 30GB version that lives in my trunk. I pull it out once or twice a year to change up the music. Just a thought.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



Old Skewl said:


> Just throwing it out there. Have you considered an older Ipod classic that charges off 12v that you could load with music and leave in the trunk attached to the KCE-422i. I have a 30GB version that lives in my trunk. I pull it out once or twice a year to change up the music. Just a thought.


Thats a spectacular thought! I would have ever thought of it. I know dick about iStuff and little of Alpine. I just figured it couldnt charge anything. Didnt know it was just because of the iPhone 3..... may be a 3S, as I said I know nothing about them. My brother always broke them and left them at my house so I had to ask him what model it was and all I got was "How the hell do I know? You're the tech guy! I dont even remember what I had for breakfast." I swear I need to buy him a helmet.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

^^Ha ha! 

I sent you a pm with some recommendations. Good luck!


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

So in an effort to learn more about my cars stereo I decided to take a door panel off and take a gander inside. I was disappointed to see there is no added on sound deadener.  At least the doors come apart easy and access is excellent so it will be easy to deaden. I know everyone has an opinion on what they like for that stuff but I like the GT Mat Quadro. 60 mil of butyl then 4mil of aluminum and then 60 more mil of butyl and then 3/16" of foam. Made a huge difference in my truck and I get it dirt cheap so I figure I will just use that in the doors.
I also dont care for the mid-woofers being mounted to the door card and only the stock foam covering it. I would like to make a rubber seal to go around the perimeter to seal the card to the door better. Oddly enough the car has really good mid bass. More so considering they are only 5.25" drivers so maybe I shouldnt change anything! LOL

Now I threw out most of the pictures because they were really out of focus. Wasnt wearing my glasses when i took the pictures and also didnt realize I had a transmission fluid smear on the lens. At least I got to verify the speakers and connections which all seem good save for the midranges. The Texas heat and sun have taken its toll on them. They sound just fine but when I removed the grills I thought they were pretty ugly. I am undecided if I will change out all the speakers or just change the mids for fresh ones or what. I am going to spend some more time tuning it first. Its just when I get out of the car and hop in the truck I become really dissapointed in the cars sound system. The trucks is so much more alive and enjoyable with better detail.
On the other hand I am really underpowering these Morels with only 50 watts on the tweets and mids and 100 for the woofers.

At any rate, here are some bad pictures showing the front stage.

Stock door locations for the woofer and tweeter and the mids are in the corners of the dash facing straight up.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Seems for the most part the system has held up well for being 8 years old.


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

That actually looks pretty nice Bill. There was alot of good/decent equipment in that ride.. Sub should be amazing for you, glad you found it and are getting several back up replacements for it.

Those mids are actually putting out good midbass? maybe just seal up the door a bit and black hole the inside of the door.. Tell me more of this deal on deadener you speak of..lol

I did catch the tweeters at your chin(s) btw, hilarious.

My old Mark VIII had a cut through rear deck just for the subs, miss that old car.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

Oh yeah, forgot it also has the backup camera.


GT Mat is in Texas and on top of the DIYMA discount they give they also give me deals for another reason I cant get into here.  But my truck was LOUD before. I put the Quadro as a 100% cover on the roof and rear fire wall and 70% on the floor. Truck became amazingly quiet. When it would rain you really had to crank the stereo up to hear over it. Now I can ony hear it on the windshield and its super faint. I also run the truck through an auto wash every week and again I used to have to really crank the stereo in there. Now I can use the stereos bluetooth phone and people cant tell I am in a wash.

Really impressed with it and its super easy to use.


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



LaserSVT said:


> Oh yeah, forgot it also has the backup camera.
> 
> 
> GT Mat is in Texas and on top of the DIYMA discount they give they also give me deals for another reason I cant get into here.  But my truck was LOUD before. I put the Quadro as a 100% cover on the roof and rear fire wall and 70% on the floor. Truck became amazingly quiet. When it would rain you really had to crank the stereo up to hear over it. Now I can ony hear it on the windshield and its super faint. I also run the truck through an auto wash every week and again I used to have to really crank the stereo in there. Now I can use the stereos bluetooth phone and people cant tell I am in a wash.
> ...


Would you mind pming a fellow texan the diyma discount?


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

those speakers look fatigued and worn.

I'd replace all the drivers as a starting off point and to get the system up to a reasonable standard I'd actually go through it piece by piece right down to the patch cords and the connections between all those adapters and the proprietary Alpine hardware, using some electrical contact cleaner and de-oxit at a minimum.

Then I'd address the dampener situation, with the doors receiving some kind of added mass to the panels or a way to bolt to the panels from access holes, so that the woofers are not just floating in space attached to a plastic part. I'd use vibration mounts, there's several on the market that would be great for this duty but I like the Sorbothane, so maybe look into those.

Ideally the woofer is able to be de-coupled from the door panel but also de-coupled from the door, leaving it held firmly in place without allowing panel flex to rob some of the output, I don't know how else to do this but adding a couple of bolt-in stiffening ribs in the door frame and using that to mount the de-coupler stud/vibro mount, that is accessed by custom escutcheon panels in the door, maybe using carbon fiber as an accent piece that hides the extra work securing the door to the panel.

It's an old system and it's had it's time in the sun, so give it a make-over and maybe upgrade some of the older Morel pieces with newer models or go around the Elate concept altogether, and throw some 3" Audible Physics NZ3AlBe in those dash mid spots, or try out Legatia limiteds...


wait, this is a perfect opportunity to try out the Grande, Oh-So? haha...


sorry, I mean you love them and you know they love you and what else can you do in the soon to be baddest Audi to make it outie the German mother land...


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



cajunner said:


> those speakers look fatigued and worn.


I agree.


> I'd replace all the drivers as a starting off point and to get the system up to a reasonable standard I'd actually go through it piece by piece right down to the patch cords and the connections between all those adapters and the proprietary Alpine hardware, using some electrical contact cleaner and de-oxit at a minimum.


While I have not pulled any wires/connectors apart other than the door speaker wires I have gone through everything else. Made sure all the data cables were still tight in their sockets and that all the terminals on the amp were tight. Where the bulk of the modules and DSP are in the same spot that allowed me to take a good look around and no mounting hardware was oxidized or rusted and everything was amazingly dust free so I didn't see any reason to disconnect everything.
As far as the speakers go I am still debating what I would like to do. At minimum the mids have to go. I am debating between Frog, HAT or maybe Dayton. One option is to try and buy back my TM65s as they can be done with minimal modification. I always said they would do excellent in a 3-way since they can be crossed low. Do them with a HAT or AF mid and thinking Focal Be tweeters in the a pillars. Another option is going with Sinfoni Maestoso and I forget what their 3" mid is called and make my own 3-way of Sinfoni. But that requires much door fabrication. I have a few other ideas and may simply replace what I have with current versions of the same thing although they are a bit pricey and my trucks stereo sounds far better than the Audis. I have already received my new subwoofer.


> Then I'd address the dampener situation, with the doors receiving some kind of added mass to the panels or a way to bolt to the panels from access holes, so that the woofers are not just floating in space attached to a plastic part. I'd use vibration mounts, there's several on the market that would be great for this duty but I like the Sorbothane, so maybe look into those.


Yes sir, I will be doing sound dampening in the doors using my brand of choice and then some MLV on the door cards.


> Ideally the woofer is able to be de-coupled from the door panel but also de-coupled from the door, leaving it held firmly in place without allowing panel flex to rob some of the output, I don't know how else to do this but adding a couple of bolt-in stiffening ribs in the door frame and using that to mount the de-coupler stud/vibro mount, that is accessed by custom escutcheon panels in the door, maybe using carbon fiber as an accent piece that hides the extra work securing the door to the panel.


The woofer is currently spaced off the door with a 1/2" thick MDF ring. I plan on adding something like a door weather seal to the perimeter of the door card to seal it to the door cavity when I do the sound dampening.


> It's an old system and it's had it's time in the sun, so give it a make-over and maybe upgrade some of the older Morel pieces with newer models or go around the Elate concept altogether, and throw some 3" Audible Physics NZ3AlBe in those dash mid spots, or try out Legatia limiteds...


Audio Physics! I was trying to think of that brands name last night! Knew we kept you around for some reason. 



> wait, this is a perfect opportunity to try out the Grande, Oh-So? haha...













> sorry, I mean you love them and you know they love you and what else can you do in the soon to be baddest Audi to make it outie the German mother land...


I would like nothing more than to do just that. Issues there are they are very expensive and I am not rich and spent a lot of coin this month. They are HUGE so a custom door is an absolute must and I am just not ready to do that to this car. They only made 800. Less than 200 are my color. Less than 130 have my interior color and it is believed that less than 10 have the factory carbon fiber trim with the Mugello Blue Pearl paint and ebony interior.

I would have to buy another set of door cards so I don't hurt mine and then pay a whole lot of money to have them modded to fit the Grandioso and then I just don't have enough power on top unless I bridge each MCC406 for each door. LOL


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*



Old Skewl said:


> Just throwing it out there. Have you considered an older Ipod classic that charges off 12v that you could load with music and leave in the trunk attached to the KCE-422i. I have a 30GB version that lives in my trunk. I pull it out once or twice a year to change up the music. Just a thought.


So glad you gave me that idea! I had done a bunch of research but turned out your simple PM had everything I needed to know. iPod classic would work and the 5 has the best DAC. I kept looking at them on ebay and figured a clean one for $50 could be had and put like 10 on the watch list for ebay and then got busy at work and the auctions ended on all already. All the "Buy it now" ones in the $50 range have issues or look like they went through hell! 
Stopped for lunch, saw a pawn shop so went in to look. Found a black 5th gen Classic Video with nary a scratch and in 60gb size for $60. Being a pawn shop I just handed him two twenties and took it home. Just got done factory restetting it and loaded it up all good to go.

Interesting side note. Before resetting it it was named Jarmell Jacksons iPod. It was FILLED with Celine Dion, Brittany Spears, Garth Brooks and Wayland Jennings. Filled! Had like 6gb left on it. It also had like 20 videos of womens soft ball. LOL


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

*Re: Got my system figured out but still need to find one last part.*

So on to the fun stuff! We were a bit slow this morning and I knew I had two hours before the tow truck would arrive so I figured I would take 10 minutes to swap the subs around. Of course nothing goes as planned. LOL I pulled out the Alpine and set it next to the Boston on the table and knew right away this was not gonna work. I knew they were the same depth but I forgot how massive the motor structure is on the Boston, heck it weighs almost double what the Alpine does. Go for a test fit and the motors braces hit the box since the box was molded around the Alpines magnet. So I set off to build some spacers and then think about it and realize the Boston is going to fill the entire box. I went math stupid and messed up calculations pretty bad. Looks like with the Boston in there it would only have .3-.35 cubic feet. No wonder the Alpine struggled to hit low notes. Box is just way too small. So I decided to invert it instead as some smart people suggested. So I threw all the polly-fill back in (also made sure the surround was not going to rub the hole) and got it in. Powered it up and was a bit disappointed. While it did sound nicer and play deeper it just wasn't the sub i remembered. My buddy (who was watching the whole install and loves my misery) reminded me that these Bostons dont like polly-fill in small boxes. Duh! So I pulled out the polly-fill and there she was! The deep rich bass I always loved. Too bad I only had 15 minutes to play with it before the tow truck arrived. Was a kick ass 10 minutes though. That sub really growls! Cant wait to tune it in and really play with it and get it broken in. Suspension is very stiff right now so I am careful not to send more than 100 watts to it until it loosens up a bit.

Just wish Boston would have doe a better job on their leveling of the silk screening. LOL

Not sure yet how I feel about the way it is mounted. I may just make that location stock again and make a regular proper size box and mount it under the deck on the opposite side of the battery box. Wouldnt be hard to make one that mimicked the battery box.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

So I have some questions I figure I would throw out there for ya'll.
Can the Alpine 910 interface with my old H701? I know its not that great of a DSP but this car will be updated slowly and there may be a few things that dont get updated like the amps. Always wanted some 6 channel beautiful Macs and now I have them.
But the decks display and interface is a bit dated.

Now my Morels in the dash sound fine but are ugly as sin and stick out like a sore thumb. I dont want to spend $500 on a new set because while they sound nice, they dont sound $500 nice.

I was kinda thinking Audifrog as I like that new tiny mids specs but I have heard lots of speakers with nice specs that I didnt care for. I think the Sinfoni C89M can be done with only a minor trim and then just make some nice little grills to put on them. Its been a long time since I have hunted 3-3.5" speakers and I want something really nice for this car.

I am also contemplating removing the MT22 tweeters and going with some Be tweeters. Always loved them and with this setup I can cross them where they need to be and not worry about hem playing low enough to mate to a 6.5" mid-woofer. Its that or go balls out and get the Grandioso tweeters. I really need to hear them first though as that is just soooo much money.

There is also a wire change in store for the Macs in the future as I get the speakers sorted. I am thinking dedicated monoblock for the subwoofer.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Okay I have a crazy idea for the wire change and wanted some input. 
I love my Macs, always wanted them and want to keep them. Problem is I need more power so this is my plan. Take one MCC406 and bridge 1&2 and 3&4 for 200 watts to the front mid-woofers. Take 5&6 and send it to the dome mids in the dash for 100 watts each. Then take the other MCC406 and use 5&6 for the rear mid-woofers at 100 watts and use channels 3&4 for the rear tweeters and channels 1&2 for the front tweeters. 
Now since my DSP is only two way active this is where it gets fun. I would band pass the front woofers at the deck 80hz and 400hz using Front output 2. I would then use front output 1 to feed a 400hz HP to channels 5&6 at the amp and use its 4000hz LP filter. I would have to Y adapt that RCA to feed the other amp channels 1&2 for the front tweeters and use the amps internal crossover at 4000hz. I then use the decks rear outputs HP at 80hz to feed channels 3-6 on the second amp using its internal crossover to LP 5&6 at 3000hz and HP 3&4 at 3000hz. Simple enough right? I then take my spare JL Audio 500/1 and use it for the subwoofer to get well over double the power I have now for the sub. The JL amp would be hidden to keep it clean. That amp always satyed cool anyway. That way I have a class D on the sub which should make for a happier electrical system.

Since the mid and tweeter are fairly close together this would allow me to have better use of the DSPs TA as right now the mids and mid woofers share that signal and they are several feet apart and then the tweeters have the other TA channels. Like this the tweeters and mids would share the delay and the mid-woofers would have their own TA.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Glad the iPod worked out for you! Looks like you got an awesome deal on it too! The boston looks pretty cool mounted like that(showing off its monster motor and all). But I agree with trying to get it under the floor opposite the battery box. I'm in the process of replacing my PXA-h100 with a PXA-h700 in the M3. Hoping it is worth the upgrade


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Old Skewl said:


> Glad the iPod worked out for you! Looks like you got an awesome deal on it too! The boston looks pretty cool mounted like that(showing off its monster motor and all). But I agree with trying to get it under the floor opposite the battery box. I'm in the process of replacing my PXA-h100 with a PXA-h700 in the M3. Hoping it is worth the upgrade


I cant thank you enough for that suggestion. Just tried it in the truck with the P99 and holy cow is the interface WAY better than with the USB drive. It even displays info while playing WAV files now. Couldnt do that with the flash drive.

Gonna have to get a second one for the truck. LOL


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Well hell! All this time I have been under the assumption I had 5.25" openings in this car. Turns out they are 6.5ish just shallow. I have always thought the SI TM65s would be perfect in a 3-way application, guess now I will find out. LOL!
Those little guys have some impressive kick and are shallow enough to fit. Glad my offers on 20 year old 5.25" speakers were turned down! LOL


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## Brian_smith06 (Jan 31, 2008)

I wondered. A friend had an s6 that was same generation as yours and had 2 pairs of image dynamics xs65 sets installed in what he said was like a factory bose enclosure


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Well I actually just discovered what I actually have and now am on pins and needles for the car to come back. The Supremos are the SW6 and they are woofers. I was doing no justice to them. I didnt change the crossover setting from the 90hz high pass it was set at when I bought teh car. I am changing that to 50 or 60hz and doubling the power from 100 to 200 watts. I bet they will do exactly what I want then.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Well parts are arriving. I think my new mids are supposed to be sent this week I hope and I am still hunting tweeters but something kinda special and very rare arrived today. Because i wanted to keep that custom enclosure but not have the giant basket of the sub stick out a good friend suggested something I had never seen nor heard. Apparently not many people ever got to hear these particular subwoofers before and I can not find a single install with them so who knows. It is optimized for a .45 sealed box and should be shallow enough to properly fit in the box I have. I will run it against the Boston and the sub that sounds better is the one that is staying but according to its previous owner, it should own the Boston. 
NIB, never powered:


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Hell Bill, it says SQ right there on the cone..lol.

Great looking sub, looking forward to the outcome. Do you plan to let this break in for awhile prior to audition?


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Yeah, tomorrow its getting wired into an old denon house amp and feed it with 20 watts at 50Hz for a half day to loosen up the suspension a bit since it sat so long. I'll put a little more after that and then when the car gets back it will run off the Mac for a bit and then the JL.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

LaserSVT said:


> according to its previous owner, it should own the Boston.


That's a tall order.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

I *THINK* I have my front stage nailed down for what I want to do. Not 100% on the mid-bass as the Supremos are actually pretty good but I really like the looks of the AD F6 so I am gonna try it out.



























Or possibly this one instead of the F6 mid-bass:


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

^ these look very interesting..


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Has your new gear arrived yet bump ?


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Just the sub and amp. Have to wait for Audi to finish the car before the AD stuff is sent.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Will wait for the good news and the sound of the monster being awakened lol.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

I am even gonna rock the old DSP and deck too for a bit. The McIntosh has the power I want, just have to bridge a little of it and relieve it of sub duty. Its 50/50 on the mid-bass right now. If the F6 sounds better than the Morel it will stay. I know the mid and tweeters will do better, or at least be more to my tastes.

I am just itching to hear that sub. I may bring it with me when i get the car and slap it in while in Audis parking lot for the near 100 mile drive home.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Played with the sub today. I am sure I devalued it some but it looks so much better. I was going to remove all of the yellow but since that signifies the subs series and rarity I decided to leave it there for now.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

It looks a lot cleaner now.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

I am still debating removing the rest. I will wait till its mounted.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I would as you will never know until it's nestled in its new home fondly staring back at you lol...


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

My car is back from Audi. Had to have it towed home. Gave them a perfect driving car, they gave me something that cant do 10 MPH. They dropped the driveshaft and bent it, wont take responsibility. They also hurt one of my McIntosh. Super loud high pitch squeel on the rear tweeters.


So me not being one to let some crap hold me back I decided to fix some non related issues and one related.
Turns out Audi somehow moved the passenger wire harness and pinched a tweeter wire under a hod down bracket. That now allows the McIntosh amp to work right. I then installed the new laser diffusers. The sensors are not the reason the lower panel is wavy, was already that way. Best width I could get and still get the grill in.





Also since its bracket is missing I figured I would move the outside air temp sensor to double as a way to see the air temp entering the intercooler.





And last but not least. My very special subwoofer. Very few left alive. Fits perfect and sounds phenomenal even though it will need lots of break in time. 





Also installed a rear diffuser for lasar readers but forgot to take a pic. That took some doing. For some reason the rear one was installed but was tapped up in the dash with a 4" cord.....? So I monted the new one under the rear bumper. I may move it though. Not 100% happy with its looks.


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## hurrication (Dec 19, 2011)

LaserSVT said:


> And last but not least. My very special subwoofer. Believed to be the only one left alive.


 Lol. The ES-SQ subs were fairly common in their day. They're about a decade old, but you can still find them out there. I know two people right now that are using ones identical to yours, one a 12 and one a 10.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

hurrication said:


> Lol. The ES-SQ subs were fairly common in their day. They're about a decade old, but you can still find them out there. I know two people right now that are using ones identical to yours, one a 12 and one a 10.


Then I stand corrected. Couldnt find crap on the ES-SQ1000 only the 100s. Doesnt change the fact I couldnt find a member here or on any other forum running them and almost nobody has heard of them. It was cheap, new and promised to blow me away. Well it does. One very sweet sounding sub.


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## hurrication (Dec 19, 2011)

Yeah, they are pretty great subs. They came out when CDT was still a new name on the block so they didn't get much exposure. Back in the day they used to be competition for the JL w6's.


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

I always loved the CDT, the old versions like these. Still have another bnib on the shelf for a rainy day, an 8" also. Great sounding subs, I agree they gave the old W6's a run for their $ for sure. 

Hope the issues with the crap tech repairs get worked out Bill, I know how important that car is to you bud.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

While searching for KRX3 pods for a friend I found some Focal tweeter pods on my shelf. They match the interior perfect and would allow for perfect on axis of the tweeters. That would put them right next to where the mids are as well. What do y'all think?


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

deeppinkdiver said:


> I always loved the CDT, the old versions like these. Still have another bnib on the shelf for a rainy day, an 8" also. Great sounding subs, I agree they gave the old W6's a run for their $ for sure.
> 
> Hope the issues with the crap tech repairs get worked out Bill, I know how important that car is to you bud.


BTW, the sub sounds fantastic. Impressive output and control and it keeps getting louder and louder. Between tracks with all four Mac fans and the battery charger fan going it was pretty loud with the seats down. LOL
The Boston had the ability to be louder with enough amp but for what I have this thing is perfect. Very nice growl to go with its clarity. Cant wait to see what it does when I throw the larger JL amp on it....... if I can figure out where to mount the dang thing. LOL


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

I like the new tweeter location idea.. Will those be in the way of the mid at all?

Great to hear the sub is breaking in nicely.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

No. The mid is loading or reflecting off the windshield.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

So I was too tired to get into all the crap I found wrong with the setup on this cars processors/amps/deck. System always sounded okay but never what I thought such expensive speakers should do so I decided to take the covers off the amps and see exactly how everything was set.
Now even though its 3-way active the Alpine DSP does not have an active 3 way crossover network. Judging by the low pass for "Front 2" was at 4k and the high pass for "Front 1" was at 4k I just assumed that the woofers and mids were wired so that the amp seperated them. Problem is time alignment was impossible to dial in and the mids didnt seem like they did much of anything. The tweeters were very subdued as well but the midbass was okay. Not great but not bad. Sub bass was also very .... limited. Well what I found was in the front MCC406M that the tweeters and mids shared the input from the DSP so they both only got 4Khz+ going to them (from the DSP setting) but the amp was also high passed at 3.2k for the mids and low passed at 5k and the tweeters high pass was set to he highest setting. The woofers (Supremo SW6) were high passed at 120hz and low passed at 1k. So there was my goofy sound and excessive EQing problem. I then saw that the deck also had some kind of bass enhancer going on that is supposed to help bass sound more like its coming from the front. As far as I could tell it only lessened the subs impact so I shut that off. Also it had the center channel set on even though there is not one and that really widenend the sound stage

So I brought the decks DSP crossovers in line. High passed "Front 1" to 12db @ 630hz and low passed "Front 2" at 6db @ 630hz and high passed at 24db @ 50hz. Then in the amp I turned off the woofers crossovers and set channels 1&2 (tweeters) at 5k high pass and 3&4 (mids) low pass at 4700ish.

After adjusting gains to tame the mids and eqing it the system really impressed me. Stage was high and very wide. Instruments were where they needed to be and the sound was impressive. I was still having a bit of sub issues though. The deck was set at 12db 80hz low pass but something was off. I opened up the rear MCC406M that also controls the rear speakers. Rear speakers were set right with a 3.5k hi/lo pass but a 200hz HP on the mids so I shut that off since the DSP is already at 100hz. The sub though.... argh. Had a high pass at 30hz and low pass at 50hz. WTF? Since the high pass seemed like it could not be defeated I just set it to 5hz, guess its a subsonic (really infrasonic but we wont get into that) and turned off the low pass. 
Now we had something! That little 10" blew my socks off! It was able to shake all my bay doors and wall of license plates. Deep clean accurate bass and in a tiny .48 sealed box!
Good thing I had the battery charger hooked up because I spent 3 hours just listening to everything. It really sounded great. Very very pleased. Cant wait to yank all the Morel stuff out and play with the AD stuff now.

Just cant believe how improperly (and for 8 years) the system was set and how much music was just lost.


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## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

LaserSVT said:


> So I was too tired to get into all the crap I found wrong with the setup on this cars processors/amps/deck. System always sounded okay but never what I thought such expensive speakers should do so I decided to take the covers off the amps and see exactly how everything was set.
> Now even though its 3-way active the Alpine DSP does not have an active 3 way crossover network. Judging by the low pass for "Front 2" was at 4k and the high pass for "Front 1" was at 4k I just assumed that the woofers and mids were wired so that the amp seperated them. Problem is time alignment was impossible to dial in and the mids didnt seem like they did much of anything. The tweeters were very subdued as well but the midbass was okay. Not great but not bad. Sub bass was also very .... limited. Well what I found was in the front MCC406M that the tweeters and mids shared the input from the DSP so they both only got 4Khz+ going to them (from the DSP setting) but the amp was also high passed at 3.2k for the mids and low passed at 5k and the tweeters high pass was set to he highest setting. The woofers (Supremo SW6) were high passed at 120hz and low passed at 1k. So there was my goofy sound and excessive EQing problem. I then saw that the deck also had some kind of bass enhancer going on that is supposed to help bass sound more like its coming from the front. As far as I could tell it only lessened the subs impact so I shut that off. Also it had the center channel set on even though there is not one and that really widenend the sound stage
> 
> So I brought the decks DSP crossovers in line. High passed "Front 1" to 12db @ 630hz and low passed "Front 2" at 6db @ 630hz and high passed at 24db @ 50hz. Then in the amp I turned off the woofers crossovers and set channels 1&2 (tweeters) at 5k high pass and 3&4 (mids) low pass at 4700ish.
> ...


that poorly set, it would appear the former owner ticked off his installer...

maybe that's part of the reason it was sold, dang radio wouldn't play worth a darn...


I bet that Alpine Type R would do better now if you put it back.

And with a little tuning time the parts that are still in place may be all that's needed with a little help from some of the Alpine H701 user/guru types running around this place.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Made some small changes today. Added in a JL 500/1 to take over sub duties and then rewired the McIntosh amps to double the power to the fronts. It all made a big difference. The bass no has some authority and the front stage is capable of some nice output. Still hate the Morels but the new speakers show to arrive on Friday so I wont have to suffer long. LOL


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Bill.. This looks very clean sir! Great to hear the subs performance was increased by the addition of the JL amp, that sub really will surprise you.

Hope all goes well on the AD install sir!


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Very nice Install, I like the amp location and the Audi its self.


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

Bill that looks awesome love how you are keeping that car looking very classy.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Thank you gents. 
Got the JLs bass knob installed today. I have a new fake button on the way since mine is all scratched up.


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## Littlejerryseinfeld (Nov 15, 2015)

LaserSVT said:


> Thank you gents.
> Got the JLs bass knob installed today. *I have a new fake button on the way since mine is all scratched up.*


I have the same OCD. It's a blessing and a curse.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Littlejerryseinfeld said:


> I have the same OCD. It's a blessing and a curse.


I spent way too much on little trim pieces from Germany for this dang thing. Rubberized coating peels on a few spots. Only one I didnt buy was the fan buttons. Can only get the full unit at $1000. Eventually the OCD will demand it but for now I will deal with it. LOL

Steering wheel badge was scratched and that tiny little piece is almost $200.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Oh boy! New toys arrived today.  The AD speakers showed up and I have to say, I am in love. They are not the prettiest things out there but they have excellent build quality and so far I am very happy with their performance. Everything dropped in pretty easily. The woofers dropped right into the factory location like they were made for the car. The JUST fit with maybe 1/16" to spare. Since I may not keep the tweeters I didnt want to modify them so I used some foam blocks to secure them under the OEM tweeter clip. The mids though, well thats a different story. I got the regular ones but needed the Neo magnet versions so they will fit. The regular ones are a bit too deep and the magnets too large. For now while I await the Neos I have used the tried and true DIYMA way of setting them in place. Lucky I have extra towels. LOL

While I have many hours of testing and tuning ahead of me I can say right off the bat they blow the Morels away. Tweeters are much more crisp and detailed, mids are much more realistic and the mid-bass has kinda blown me away on what I thought a 6" could do. Cant wait to dial them in but using the exact settings I had on the Morels these speakers are far far superior.




Out with the old:




Side by side comparison:


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

Those are pretty sweet looking, I'd say they are pretty lol.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Those are sure pretty!!!!! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

I didnt say they were not pretty. Just not the prettiest. LOL

When they were sitting on the counter my die hard Focal friend was looking at them and said they look cheap. He didnt like the woofers basket or the AD logo on the dust cap. Another friend (diehard Morel fan) said the same thing and then when they were sitting side by side with the Supremo he just couldn't fathom why I would remove such an expensive driver for a relatively cheap one. About 30 minutes latter I had it all installed and powered it up. Both guys shut up almost instantly on the first song. I hadnt changed a single setting on the TA, crossover, EQ or gains from the Morels but instantly you could here a very large difference. The ADs just sprung into life and made the music surreal. It became 3D, an all enveloping experience. I turned the woofers high pass filter off and its quite impressive just how low it will dig in my doors. As you can see my door speaker setup is less than desierable but with the MLV it seems to work great.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Most of my sound deadening goodies arrived today from SDS. Cant wait to try it out as it seems to be of very impressive quality. Heavy and thick with great construction. Still awaiting the SDS MLV but that should be here soon.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Oh oh, it's playdoh time in the house lol.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Oh yes! 

Spent the day cutting the hell out of my fingers. This stuff is SHARP! It is of really nice quality though and very easy to use. I ordered way too much though. Ordered 100 sheets thinking I would need 80 for mine and 20 to finish the Mark VIII. I think I used 60 sheets for mine and did WAY more than the suggested 25% coverage. Did all four doors, door cards, trunk lid and trunk floor as well as the uncarpoted area under the rear seat. I also have some MLV that just arrived for under that seat but since I had so many tiles left I threw a few under there as well. LOL
This cured all of my mid-bass rattles in the doors as well as in the door handles. System is perceived to be louder I guess due to the exterminated vibrations. These cars are very "dead" from the factory but the CLD tiles from SDS really made a big improvement.
One trouble area I had was a big gain in the 50-60hz area that would sound a bit hollow sounding. After removing the spare tire I thumped the trunk where it pops up and it went "Dooooooonnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggg". Guess I was getting a fair ammount of resining in there. After the CLD you thump it and its a mellow thud. Much happier now.

Always impresses me what CLD will do for a system. More so when combined with MLV. But these SDS pannels are just great. I always do 100% coverage and didnt come close with these but feel they did a superior job. Kudos Don!


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Well your fingers will heal, but vibration is gone, and i bet you get way much better response than you did before  good job keep going... I miss my A4,, great cars when they don't brake lol.....


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Yes Audi is a wonderful vehicle if it's under warranty, if not just have serious pockets to play.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Yay! The proper NEO magnet M35s arrived today and I promptly installed them. I was able to modify the old Morel grills to fit and then make a small spacer to allow the mids to sit properly in the dash. I am pretty pleased with how it all turned out.


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

Those are pretty sexy, nice install man.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Thanks buddy! I really appreciate it as I have been busting ass to have her ready for Saturday. These mids turned out to be about 1/8" too deep as well but I got creative and thing the spacer turned out okay for now. Was suprised at the little work needed to make the Morel grills fit.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)




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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Granted i used a potato for this video and between the youtube compression and normal PC sound cards as well as limited quality of computer speakers this wont show a whole lot and is different from in person but at least it allows to show just how clear and detailed these things are. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gd5ODqSQLmI


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Well so far I am very very pleased with the sound and stage as well as sheer output. The sub cant quite hang for some kinda of music but does well for most. I had thought I hurt the sub but it turns out he box cracked so that was am easy enough fix.

Still need more bass though. Had hoped Santa put a F10 under my tree but no such luck. Did get an Applebees card. I hate that place so i hope it covers booze. LOL


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