# 06 Scion XB build



## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

For this set up I wanted something that sounded clean, was simple, one amp, and had a budget of around 600$ for equipment + about 200 for materials. I already have a Kenwood head unit so that put me pretty far ahead of the game. After a good amount of research and listening I decide on Hertz Eks 165sl components for my front stage. They have a nice full rich sound, and they are not too harsh up top. Cost about 220$ for my amp I wanted small and powerful 4 ch. Class d was looking to be the way to go, after looking at a lot of them the ARC XXD 4080 stood out with great reviews a small foot print and what I wanted for power 80x4 at 4 ohms and 250x2 at 4 ohms, so I am getting 80 to each side up front and 250 to my sub 290$. And for a sub I picked the ARC KS 12 100$ so I went a little over budget but it’s not that bad. 








Her it all is
For materials so far I have a ½” quarter sheet of mdf. To practice my routing skills and make my speaker baffles. I will be buying a full sheet of ¾“ mdf and a full sheet of 1/2“. I also plan on getting some Plexiglas for a nice for the box. That’s all gonna be about 100$ then I plan to order 30-50 sq ft of e-dead
And some 4ga to do my big3. I got the dash kit and harness for a trade, I have a friend that works at best buy in the bay and I gave him my old kit and wires so he could sell them and he gave me the Xb stuff. 

Now on to the install first I popped out the head unit, then I realized I no longer have a cage or my Kenwood so I have to use the factory brackets for now.








I looked at the big hole in my dash and had a thought, “my tiny amp might fit their”








It does!! So I cut a few pieces of wire and made sure it would fit well and it does, it also clears the front with the rca’s and the ac controls. I am now gonna need shorter RCA’s but thats no big deal. I then tried to put the HU in and the brackets scratched my amp 








The little nubs are whats doing it, so we fix that 
























I drilled them out using a step bit, I screwed them to the bored so I would not warpe them to much, after a little sanding they are good 








Before and after


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

My job site manager, he dictates he work pace with dirty diapers and 2 hour feedings








It all fits, im gonna have an ugly hole till I can get a Kenwood cage and use the schose kit I have, but I can live with it for now, or I might use some hard board to make a beauty plate.
Now I have to run my power wire, I think the best place is the pass side boot, cause it has a cool little nipple, cut it off and lube it a bit and some 8ga will slide right through.








But sense I am putting my amp under my radio, I am gonna go through the driver side boot.
This is where one of my favorite tools comes in








It is a big syringe that you push through a wire boot and you can pass 4ga wire through it. But the XB boot was too small and I almost pushed it out of the fire wall, so I cut a hole with my razor blade and just slide it through, then I mounted my fuse holder to the shock tower.








And this is when my wife wanted to go to dinner, when we got home I took the door off and drilled the speaker rivets out, and pulled my speaker, I traced the baffle out on mdf and cut it out, then I drew out what my speaker mounting ring is gonna be and cut that as well.








When I go outside in a little bit im gonna cut the center hole in both of those, then I am gonna use them as my master copy and use my router table and cut up a few copies and say the template.
Should have more to post tonight. I hope to have the speakers in and the amp powered up today.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

So as it goes, I got caught up in working and did not take a lot of pictures today, was not a lot to take anywise. I got the inner circles of my baffle template cut, and it was pretty ugly, so instead of making 2 copies I made one, and used both. The second one was a little different, because I got a little lazy and the first was really ugly. Here the first one is all mounted up.








And then with the speaker in it








I mounted the crossover under the tweeter and I think I might try to make a baffle under the tweeter and screw the cross over down and it should also help the tweeter sound a little better, but ill do that next week I think. I did not get a picture of the tweeter, but I will tomorrow.
Here is the other baffle, instead of making a ring I just made to of the baffles and glued them together 








And after I glued it and was working on the T-nuts I realized I did not have screws long enough to go through 1” of MDF and secure it to the door, so I counter sunk the holes about ½” so that the screw will catch the door.








I also got my ground spot found, not too sure how good it will be, but I will give it a shot. The driver side component set is all wired and ready to go. Tomorrow when I get home from work I will pull the pass side door, run the speaker wire through the boot, mount my tweeter and wire the HU and ill be done with my front speakers, till I get my sound deadening. I was thinking of the way I am building my box, and im using a 1”baffle for the front so I can flush the sub. But due to the size of the box I cant just get a 2X4 sheet of ¼ mdf, so I will have to buy a whole sheet and because of this I think im am going to build a false floor in the back, has anyone else done this? Any tips or pictures? And also WOW the router is some tricky stuff to get down. After a bunch of test pieces im starting to get the hang of it. Props to the guys that can work them things.


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## fit_tuner (Aug 14, 2006)

awesome that you can mount your amp in there!


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Right on. There is quite a bit of room there.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

I'd remake those speaker mounting rings out of plastic cutting boards. If that MDF gets wet and swells, it could warp your basket and destroy the driver.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

t3sn4f2 said:


> I'd remake those speaker mounting rings out of plastic cutting boards. If that MDF gets wet and swells, it could warp your basket and destroy the driver.



They need to be 1" thick though. that would take alot of cutting board. Ikea has some cheap ones next time im by there ill check and see how much to get enough to remake them


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

fit_tuner said:


> awesome that you can mount your amp in there!


Ya im still thinking about mounting it in the back though. i plan on doing a false floor and think it would look nice mounted back there. im also a little worried about heat, i dont really think its gonna be an issue, but ill check andif it is ill move it to the back.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

bigguy said:


> They need to be 1" thick though. that would take alot of cutting board. Ikea has some cheap ones next time im by there ill check and see how much to get enough to remake them


The cutting boards i use at home i picked up at a restaurant depot and they are 3/8" thick plastic and were only $8 each IIRC.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

chefhow said:


> The cutting boards i use at home i picked up at a restaurant depot and they are 3/8" thick plastic and were only $8 each IIRC.


ill look in to that


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

Nice so far! I miss my xB for sure. With all that space in the dash I had thought about doing an inverted 8, or similar shallow mount sub back there lol... As far as false floor, I put a JL 500/5 under the passenger side cover in the back of the hatch area (that foam bin) with no heat issues, even on 5 hour drives in the summer. I did vent the cover and add fans, but the JL is mostly class a/b and puts off more heat than the Arc should. 

I had MDF baffles (untreated) in the doors the same as you for almost 4 years and they had just started to swell in the very bottom. I live in MI though, which is a lot dryer. I second the cutting board, or coating the baffles in fiberglass resin.

Keep up the good work!


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

stalintc said:


> Nice so far! I miss my xB for sure. With all that space in the dash I had thought about doing an inverted 8, or similar shallow mount sub back there lol... As far as false floor, I put a JL 500/5 under the passenger side cover in the back of the hatch area (that foam bin) with no heat issues, even on 5 hour drives in the summer. I did vent the cover and add fans, but the JL is mostly class a/b and puts off more heat than the Arc should.
> 
> I had MDF baffles (untreated) in the doors the same as you for almost 4 years and they had just started to swell in the very bottom. I live in MI though, which is a lot dryer. I second the cutting board, or coating the baffles in fiberglass resin.
> 
> Keep up the good work!



I might do a little fiberglass work, and if i do i will coat them. one issue i have is cutting the cutting board. my jig saw does nopt do a great smooth cut when trying to do rings. and i dont trust my self with the router to do such small rings yet. I would sue my drremel but my friend borrowed it and burnt the motor out. and not to sure whne he can replace it. my baffles are really ugly anyway and i was gonna look at replacing them.

With the cuttung board, does it take glue well? how abouit the tnuts?


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Got the front all hooked up and the hertz sound great, i need to deadin the doors though. gonna order some e-dead tomorrow and throw it in next week. I am really thinking of mounting the amp in the rear. im gonna let it run for a few days and check the heat and make a decision.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

so i decided no plexi for the box. my wife is tightening my budget allmost every day and a piece of 18x24x3/4 is out for now. But it frees up a tiny bite more $ for sound deadening and my big 3 upgrade


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

First, thanks for all the complements and suggestions

Just got home from the HD and now i have all my raw materials. I also picked up a 20x15x1/2 cutting board today and will be remaking my speaker baffles. What is the best way to cut that stuff? i figured my dremel was a good start. any one have a good way to set t-nuts into them?. I cant believe how much the hex head bolts were. 1.16$ for 2 damn. My deadening shipped today so i hope it arrives soon so i can tackle that first.


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

For T-nuts, i ted to find a drill bit that is just barely smaller than the OD of the threaded part of the T-nut, then tighten the bolt down into them until they are pulled completely into the work part. I assume they are designed to tighten without that step, but I tend to swear a LOT more when I have to remove a driver to tighten the last T-nut...

BTW what kind of Bike do you ride?


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

as of now, a SV650S i had an SV1k and a gsxr600, and i really miss my 1k.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

so i got my box built, and that thing is UGLY. apparently i cant cut a straight line to save my life. Its off a 1/8 here and 1/8 there, so its not even, but it will work for now. i might throw some carpet on it and let it work for a little while, then rebuild it when i can. just got my edead, and its pretty skimpy. but for 1$ a sqft what should i of expected? im gonna go finish running speaker wire and see how it sounds


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

I am now paying attention to this thread. I have a 2006 xB, as well.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Well its all done and set up, the box is ugly, but it sounds pretty good. i am really happy with the set up, i would like a little more power up front kinda of wish i would of gone with the KS300.4 but i can live with the way it is. the sub hits pretty good, nice and clean, and i can use the HU to bump up the bass a little when i want to. I did a little bite of deadening pass door and the 5th door i guess next week ill do some more. i did not get any pics of the box build, i forgot. Also i got a cutting board and i am making some new baffles for the speakers, but damn my router does not like doing the inside portion of the rings it keeps catching and ripping it out of my hand. not sure what im gonna do.


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

sv650 = awesome. I have a vfr800. As for the router, try doing the inside diameter first, with the board mounted to something solid, then cut the outside. If you screw the board to a another piece of scrap wood, then use the router you should be ok. Glad it is sounding good so far!


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

stalintc said:


> sv650 = awesome. I have a vfr800. As for the router, try doing the inside diameter first, with the board mounted to something solid, then cut the outside. If you screw the board to a another piece of scrap wood, then use the router you should be ok. Glad it is sounding good so far!


Ya i love my 650, unless i do interstate riddign, then i am allways looking for 7th gear.

im not following to well about the router. I am uising a router table. I made a template out of hardboard and i am using flush trim bit to copy it over. when i start to rotate the piece around the bite it catches it and rips it out of my hand...Anyways, i think im gonna ditch the cutting boards and make a baffle out of fiberglass. I want to aim the speakers up towards me ears and the only way i can think of doing it is to fiber glass them that way.


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

I did not realize you were using a router table. Good luck with the FG work!


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

it should not be to hard. it will be a few weeks before i get the chance to do it. I am not to worried about it being pretty, it is gonna be behind the door


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Just to save you some money and heart ache, I'd skip ordering e-dead and buy some that actually works. Both SecondSkin and SDS make some first rate deadening.

Also, if I can help with any questions that may come up related to your install just shoot me a PM. If it's something I have gone through with my install I'll gladly share what lessons I learned.

Zach


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Boostedrex said:


> Just to save you some money and heart ache, I'd skip ordering e-dead and buy some that actually works. Both SecondSkin and SDS make some first rate deadening.
> 
> Also, if I can help with any questions that may come up related to your install just shoot me a PM. If it's something I have gone through with my install I'll gladly share what lessons I learned.
> 
> Zach


its allready here. its seams to be an ok start. im not sure if i will do anymore deadening or not but if i do i will get some second skin.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Whats the best way to tell if your distortion is coming form the amp clipping or the speakers reaching there limit? I am getting some distortion, and i think i should be getting a little more volume out of my fronts. would it be a decent idea to try and bridge the amp to the front speakers? and then get a mono for the sub? or is it possible i am reaching the limit of the speakers and i am asking to much of my low-mid level componets and more power wont help anything? also i would like some more midbass out of the fronts. im pretty sure i need to seal my doors up as good as i can before i really start complaining about that though.


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## stalintc (Dec 6, 2007)

While bridging shouldn't hurt anything it is probably unnecessary. I would make sure you set your gains correctly.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

I am gonna play wiht it a little tomorrow. I set them with my volume at 30 out of 35, I think i will cut that back to about 26. I used an audio cd and turned to gain till i heard some distortion and then turned it back just a tad.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

DAMN I spent my whole day at work looking at going active and thinking about competing. This is an addiction. I am even thinking of selling my motorcycle. DAMN DAMN DAMN


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Went out and got a little work done today, deadened the drivers door.








Took the panel off and pulled the moisture barrier off and tossed it.








That’s the extent of the factory deadening.








After reading someone else’s post and looking in my door I noticed that the support bar barley touches the outer skin. So I decided to put some silicone in there and hoped it would add some rigidity but still allow it to flex a little








I pushed the silicone down in there with my fingers and let it dry, I think it helped a little and ill have to pull the pass side and get it done as well(I all ready deadened that side)

Next I was evaluating how im gonna seal up the large holes in the door, I was thinking hard board at first but I don’t think that will work to well. I think im gonna use some fiber glass panels to do it, but im not sure. I did however notice it would be easyier to do it with out large amounts of wires running through all the holes. So I rerouted the harness.








I inlarged the hole that the big harness passes through with my dremel, and sanded it smooth, I can run my finger round the edge with no issue.








But I still wrapped it with some deadening and then taped the wires up and wrapped them with some foam tool box liner I use as a mounting gasket. I think this will make things easier when it comes time to block the holes up.
I also used some of the tool box liner behind the inside door handle to stop it from rattling








This is where I ended 








I did not get pics of me lining the baffle with the tool box liner. Over all the Edead is a little disappointing, but not a bad base, when I can afford it I want to order some better stuff and add a layer ontop of the edead, I also want to line itin and out with some MLV and foam. 

Also I ave started to already consider some upgrades, my wife is like the way my car sounds and di think she wants hers to sound nice too, so I think I will but this stuff in her path finder and upgrade. I want to go active, so I need some sort of processing and a new amp. I would like some more bass so I want to step up to 2 12’s Now I have to figure out what amps to use, I am thinking the ARC KAR amps, a 300.4 and ether the 500.1 or 1000.1. but also the new XD’s look real nice and a 600/6(and run it as a 4 ch) and the 700/1. Or maybe I can go really big and set some ARC SE’s? so many opyions just pends on how much I want to invest. The most confusing part is the sound processing, a bit1 would be nice but lots of noise issues,the ARC DXE looks ok but not really enough tuning options..and it goes on. Ill figure it out.


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Looking good so far. I sealed my doors with some Masonite and then applied deadner. It was night and day as far as mid bass response.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

tintbox said:


> Looking good so far. I sealed my doors with some Masonite and then applied deadner. It was night and day as far as mid bass response.


Ya i really want to get them done for that reason, should i worry about flex to much? if not i might just use some hardboard. other wise i think fiber glass will be the way to go. it will make a nice contoured lip and sit nice and flush, and for the big spot ill use the rope trick to stiffen it real well.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

I think if you cover the big holes, you won't be able to get the door panels back on because of those foam lumps on the backsides.


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## tanakasan (Sep 8, 2007)

bigguy said:


> DAMN I spent my whole day at work looking at going active and thinking about competing. This is an addiction. I am even thinking of selling my motorcycle. DAMN DAMN DAMN


Do it! Its an addiction for sure!

I also have an '06 xB. Nice to see what you are doing to yours! Any xB specific questions welcome! Been all around inside mine.

Robert


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> I think if you cover the big holes, you won't be able to get the door panels back on because of those foam lumps on the backsides.


im gonna hack that off. i think its just to stabilize the window when its down, and i will put something on the back of what ever i use to do the same thing.


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## tanakasan (Sep 8, 2007)

Foam blocks? What foam blocks?!?

I *believe* those are for helping out side impact. Mine are gone...long gone.

Robert


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Here is how the HU looks now. I want to replace the plastic with some plexi and make it so a led lights it from behind and SCION shows through.

Today I tore into the hatch area. I decide to do some deadening. I laid one lair down then went and doubled up one some of the spots that seamed like they needed it. The hatch floor really dos not need much, it is pretty solid with the bends in the metal and the frame and all, but sense I have it I used it. I did not pull the side panels off, should of but got a little lazy, maybe next week. Here are the pictures.








Took everything apart and found a new friend…








After working for a bit it got hot, 91ish with the heat index, and the sun was beaming off the edead into my eyes, so I set my quick shade up and plugged in the fan. It did WONDERS
[url]http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/114/l_3098b787dc274f93a303106ff213b60d.jpg[/url][img]
The suns glare makes it a little hard to see, but that’s the first lair. 
[img] [url]http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/l_1d6012d5e0b94d9bb1173b075d5c5d01.jpg[/url][img]
That’s where I stopped with the deadening.
[img] http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/150/l_e8ff880948d6408fac9ad5361ed667de.jpg
There is a big plastic thing that goes in here, I have not heard it rattle, but it may, so I laid down some foam liner to make a barrier to help reduce the chances of it happening.








There are some tie down hooks that I thought had the abilitl to rattle so I wrapped the with the foam and bolted them down








Then placed a piece in between the loop and bracket. Might do nothing, but it was worth the .03$ woth of foam.








When I was putting the plastic piece that goes here back, it felt like it would rattle ,A LOT. So I laid down some deadening.








Lair of foam…








Then popped the panel back on, it feels solid.

Next I was on to making a floor. I did this for 2 reasons. 1 there is a little lump at the back of the stock one, making it so my box will not sit flush against the back seat. 2.im gonna mont the amp inside the floor at some point.








I did not take any pictures of cutting or anything. But here It is in and the front panle. 
Its ok. A little tight here and a little gap there. Im gonna sand it A LOT and make it fit. The front panel should curve and it doesn’t for now. Ill work on that next week.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Here is how it sits now. Im am going to rebuild the box, I think im gonna use ½” this time and brace it good. Its gonna be wide, but I need to make it as shallow as possible.
Now I have to go clean and cook.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

And here is that dinner i was talking about 
Lub me some grilled jalapeno poppers


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

bigguy said:


> Next I was on to making a floor. I did this for 2 reasons. 1 there is a little lump at the back of the stock one, making it so my box will not sit flush against the back seat. 2.im gonna mont the amp inside the floor at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You didn't happen to make a template of that floor did you?  If not, how did you get those curves right? Do you have one of those rubber compound curves?


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

bigguy said:


> And here is that dinner i was talking about
> Lub me some grilled jalapeno poppers


Jalapeno popers, FTW last night


FTL this morning


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> You didn't happen to make a template of that floor did you?  If not, how did you get those curves right? Do you have one of those rubber compound curves?


I used the stock floor board and traced it. a 24x48" sheet of mdf was just about the right size for this. it was short on both ends by about an inch, but ti does not bother me. I want to make a hinge and some spot so its easier to flip up, but im gonna wait till i redo the sub box first.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

bigguy said:


> I used the stock floor board and traced it. a 24x48" sheet of mdf was just about the right size for this. it was short on both ends by about an inch, but ti does not bother me. I want to make a hinge and some spot so its easier to flip up, but im gonna wait till i redo the sub box first.


I'm doing basically the same thing with my sub/amp rack. The bottom will fit between the ridges at the front and back of the trunk floor, though


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> I'm doing basically the same thing with my sub/amp rack. The bottom will fit between the ridges at the front and back of the trunk floor, though


thats gonna be a big box. i still need a little space back there for a stroler.


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

bigguy said:


> They need to be 1" thick though. that would take alot of cutting board. Ikea has some cheap ones next time im by there ill check and see how much to get enough to remake them


what you want to do is coat them in some resin... that will stop the moisture from getting in!


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

mmiller said:


> what you want to do is coat them in some resin... that will stop the moisture from getting in!


I started a set out of cutitng board, and i want to finish them, but i think i am going to make a set in fiber glass so that i am aim them up and get sloser to on axis.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

bigguy said:


> thats gonna be a big box. i still need a little space back there for a stroler.


I put in some pictures of what I'm doing in another thread. I'm utilizing the foam cubbyhole and the carpeted cover over the spare as support on which to build the box/amp rack:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/product-selection-comparisons/76902-ppi-jl-my-install-options.html#post1026388

That rectangular outline will be a "well" into the foam piece, and then the floor of the enclosure will span the trunk floor. The walls will come up maybe 3", and then the amp will be on the left, and the sub will be on the right, raised another 3", so it has at least 6" of depth for the magnet.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

HondAudio said:


> I put in some pictures of what I'm doing in another thread. I'm utilizing the foam cubbyhole and the carpeted cover over the spare as support on which to build the box/amp rack:
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/product-selection-comparisons/76902-ppi-jl-my-install-options.html#post1026388
> 
> That rectangular outline will be a "well" into the foam piece, and then the floor of the enclosure will span the trunk floor. The walls will come up maybe 3", and then the amp will be on the left, and the sub will be on the right, raised another 3", so it has at least 6" of depth for the magnet.


I got what your talking about now. I might have to steal that idea from you, if the way i se it up now does not work to well for me.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

That was the first box I built. UGLY. I measured wrong and a few other issues, so I redid it
I did not take many of pictures of the box build, because there is not much to show. 
Here is my method for circle cutting. I use my home made jig, set the router to about 2/3’s the thickness of the cut, and make my first pass
















Then I flip the piece im cutting, and make another pass. No need to cut in to my “workbench”, or worrying about the center falling to the ground. Works great.








I made a 2piece baffle so I could “flush” the sub(didn’t really work, casue I used ½” mdf and the sub is bigger then that, but it still looks pretty good) and the sub fit like a glove, then I thought **** when I wrap this there wont be any room for the material. So I used a little router trickery and rabbited 1/8 inch off the ring, then flipped it and used the flush trim bit to bring the rest over. Work like a charm.
















Then I glued the the 2 pieces together.








SO I let that sit over night. The next I had a strange thought, did I make the baffle the right size? Measured it, Damn its 16x 24 and I want it to be 15x24. Now I could of just used it and just made the box bigger, but that’s to easy. I still had the flush trim and rabbit bits sitting out. Now I need to take 1 inch off the baffle, I did ½ off the top and bottom so the sub would still be centered. I put a different baring on the rabbit bite and made it take ¼ inch off at a pass. Sense it was 1 inch thick, I made three passes on each side, taking about ¼ inch off at a time.
















Then I ran through with the flush trim bit.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

Now its 15 ½ “ tall. One more time around and we have








Then I went and built the rest, I am not 100% satisfied with it, but its much better than the first one. 








And here we sit all tnutted up and such








And here is what im wrapping it with.








And here it Is wrapped. Its ok everywhere except the seams, I watched the Rockford Fosgate building sa box thing on youtube and used there method to wrap it,when I went to cut the excess off I did not think about the backing showing. BUT I plan to build a beauty panel out to the sides, so it will be covered. But I am gonna see if I can make it look a little nicer tomorrow. When I get paid next im gonna start ordering stuff to do some LED lighting in the car. I think I am gonna go a little overboard with it, but hey its all in good fun.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Look what I've been up to:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1417354-post40.html


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