# Fourthmeal's 2007 Fusion Build - for a friend



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Before we start: Remember I'm just a DIY'er so judge accordingly!

This build is for a friend of mine, he's in the Navy on a carrier, so I have the car for quite a while. This lets me tackle it after work and on the weekends, and its a no-rush thing just like a car I might do for myself.

The equipment is a hodge-podge assortment of some used gear from my own stash, and a few new items:

Head unit - Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD
Front speakers - (for now) Pioneer TS-D1720C component set, passive (again, for now.)
Rear speakers - stock, run off deck
Amplifiers - 2x DLS X-D40 X-Program amps. 
Subs - 2x Acoustic Elegance AV10H
Deadening - RAAMmat BXTII and plenty of Ensolite


We start off bare:









I tapped on the panels as I went. Most of this metal is non-resonant so I just added a little deadening here and there.

































The trunk bottom was a bit more noisy. So, more material was added.









Ensolite added


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Boards made for floor

























Sub box started

















Yes it fits.

















Box almost done. Reinforced pretty well


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Continuing.









Rounded off and sanded









Amp rack

















It was this picture that put a nail in the coffin of this iteration of the build. I sent all these pictures to the owner, and I got the answer back that the final space in the middle is too narrow to give him room for suitcases etc. Oh, damn. Well, good thing I know another Fusion owner, and he kinda likes the idea of keeping the pass-through like this. This owner, on the other hand, gave me the go-ahead to kill the pass-through and so I started over.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

This is the new design I came up with. The core of it is a box I had built for my Acura TL, a box perfectly suited for the AE10's. It turned out exactly the right size for this Fusion so had a head start. 

This mockup shows the little shelf I am going to use above the sub box. This will give a little more storage space for things like dress shoes, jumper cables, etc. 









I carpeted this shelf with dark gray everywhere except the shelf floor which is black

























This is what I'm visualizing for the amp rack. A panel up against the sub box


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Beginning the doors. Plenty of BXTII applied

















As you might tell, I'm keeping the stock plastic speaker spacer. It turns out its got a good angle and a good height for what I want to do, so all I'm doing to improve it is deaden it heavily









Adequate damping inside










Ahh, Molex connectors! Aren't they just a joy to work with? Well, this one went pretty smoothly. I took plenty of pics to help educate the Molex-fearful that its not so bad (most of the time.) This one went with in-wall 16 gauge, 4 conductor wiring with the sheath removed.

We begin by pulling the rubber back









I then used a pick to push the Molex tabs in

















Its out! 









And the lock undone









This hole is where I decided to go


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

It fits! The cool thing here is that if you wanted to go with 14 gauge you could, because there is another identical hole on the other side of the Molex.

















Through the rubber boot









And the plastic channel









Rubber reattached and wire ready to go. Not pictured was the struggle to get the 4 conductor wire in to the car through the door jamb hole









Goes in a lot easier than it comes out










Back to the door. Deadening added to the factory speaker spacer. The Pioneer 5x7 adapter added









The door side got Ensolite added. I managed to have spray glue on my finger so no pics.









These are those JL connectors from the Hot Buy thread a hella long time ago. I find the 16 gauge pieces to be top-notch









The speaker is in, and additional deadening used to seal up the adapter to the stock speaker spacer.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I don't know where I figured this out, but I can safely say if you aren't doing it, START doing it. I wrapped closed cell foam around the speaker

















And roll it back to make a gasket against the door panel. 









Panel back on. Remember there is a layer of Ensolite glued to the door panel too.









Here is my simple sail-panel tweeter job. I used butyl rope sealed around the front of the tweeter









And rigged some metal _things_ to hold the tweeter in place. The butyl is probably doing it on its own to be fair. 









Tweeter back on. There is Ensolite behind the tweeter sail panel as well


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

Nice job! What does the closed cell foam do for the speaker performance? Or is it just for protection? looks like a great idea.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Let's run some 1/0 through the car, shall we? I used what I believe to be the clutch pedal hole (this is an Auto), through a stock plastic firewall plug. I was going to use a grommet beyond this, but the plastic is very soft and the techflex around the wire is fully protecting the wire itself. No danger of rub-through here

This is at the engine side









This is the interior side








The wire is snaking across the driver's side









The wire goes through this opening right under the driver's seat reinforcement









Time for the head unit and other wiring. This deck comes out in 10 seconds flat. A far cry from what I was used to with the Acura

















I know, it looks a mess. I mean we have the stock wiring, the Pioneer wiring, and two relays! But don't worry I think I have it right.

















Hey look, it works!


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## ryomanx (Feb 18, 2011)

Cool! Never thought about using 4 conductor! I might pick some up from work tomorrow.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I have two sets of RCA's in techflex going through the tunnel. The red wire you see is the relay-powered remote 12v+ going to the amp rack/lights/etc. I use relatively big wire here in case anything has a strong initial draw. Normally though the wire shouldn't have any real draw so it shouldn't introduce noise to my RCA's.











Oh yeah, cars have a left, and a right side, huh? Here's the passenger side door









Amp rack cover board figured out









Amp rack gets two angled boards, to let the cover board rest on it. Its all covered in carpet










Done for now, will update as I go. So far we are into what I would approximate to be about 20-28 hours or so. Nothing major, but definitely a few weekends and some after-hours work.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Bluenote said:


> Nice job! What does the closed cell foam do for the speaker performance? Or is it just for protection? looks like a great idea.


Closed cell foam will create a pressure-fit gasket against the door skin, so no sound coming from the speaker will play into the space between the door panel and the door itself. By blocking this off, the threat of cancellation, resonance, and other bad things is greatly reduced. It is something I recommend you do one way or another on every single build you do. Just remember that some door panels are really close to the speaker, and some are very far away, so you have to plan each one individually.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ryomanx said:


> Cool! Never thought about using 4 conductor! I might pick some up from work tomorrow.



Yessir I use 4 conductor on most of my builds. It runs only ~$20 for 100ft at Monoprice, and the in-wall sheath works extremely well on wire pulls and such in the car. Its all I use, and have done so since I discovered the stuff back in 2003 or so. Highly recommended!


Edit:

We are talking 4 conductor fine-stranded wire here, not solid core!


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## ryomanx (Feb 18, 2011)

fourthmeal said:


> Yessir I use 4 conductor on most of my builds. It runs only ~$20 for 100ft at Monoprice, and the in-wall sheath works extremely well on wire pulls and such in the car. Its all I use, and have done so since I discovered the stuff back in 2003 or so. Highly recommended!
> 
> 
> Edit:
> ...


of course! 

i have had people bring me cars with 3 conductor romex in it


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> Closed cell foam will create a pressure-fit gasket against the door skin, so no sound coming from the speaker will play into the space between the door panel and the door itself. By blocking this off, the threat of cancellation, resonance, and other bad things is greatly reduced. It is something I recommend you do one way or another on every single build you do. Just remember that some door panels are really close to the speaker, and some are very far away, so you have to plan each one individually.


Excellent point! Thanks for dropping the science!


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> Yessir I use 4 conductor on most of my builds. It runs only ~$20 for 100ft at Monoprice, and the in-wall sheath works extremely well on wire pulls and such in the car. Its all I use, and have done so since I discovered the stuff back in 2003 or so. Highly recommended!
> 
> 
> Edit:
> ...


I used the same thing in my current install. Works great. And as you mentioned the added sheath is great at preventing accidental cuts in the insulation. 

Crazy angles on your first box!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

cheesehead said:


> I used the same thing in my current install. Works great. And as you mentioned the added sheath is great at preventing accidental cuts in the insulation.
> 
> Crazy angles on your first box!



Werd on the angles. Thing is, with a table saw it was very easy to do. I just used my angle-finder (that yellow contraption) and found the angle needed, then divided in 1/2 so the joint lined up on each side. And of course the angles were the same on many places so it was quite easy once I got the hang of it. It was about 4 hours of measuring 10 times and cutting once. And I'm not going to lie, there was quite a few scrap pieces created in the process. 

The owner may not like the first box idea, but I do! That's 2.05 cubic feet right there, and almost 7.5" deep in its shallowest place. That means it will hold some monster subs. 

Thanks everyone for the comments.


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Nice work on those doors. 

I think the foam thing is actually a really good idea.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

nice work so far, man


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## Fus1on (Feb 25, 2011)

With basically the same HU and vehicle as I have and my install yet to be started, you know I'm drooling all over your thread. That's a great idea enclosing the speakers with the CCF and thanks for going into detail about the Molex plugs on the doors! :highfive:


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

I'll have to give that foam a shot!


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## hottcakes (Jul 14, 2010)

BowDown said:


> I'll have to give that foam a shot!





Fus1on said:


> With basically the same HU and vehicle as I have and my install yet to be started, you know I'm drooling all over your thread. That's a great idea enclosing the speakers with the CCF and thanks for going into detail about the Molex plugs on the doors! :highfive:


fourthmeal is good for something besides off the wall threads. 
i joke, i joke. 

nice job though, seriously. i too must try that foam setup with my similarly deadened stock plastic baffle. i would've preferred that first box and amp rack idea myself, good job with that box too - seems creative.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Closed cell foam will create a pressure-fit gasket against the door skin, so no sound coming from the speaker will play into the space between the door panel and the door itself. By blocking this off, the threat of cancellation, resonance, and other bad things is greatly reduced. It is something I recommend you do one way or another on every single build you do. Just remember that some door panels are really close to the speaker, and some are very far away, so you have to plan each one individually.


Ok... Unless the manufacturer of the 1/8" CCF you used has somehow developed a product that's completely soundproof, your reasoning is off the mark. 

I'll refrain from hammering on your build thread, but at best all you've done is dampen the door panel by providing another point of contact to the door tin.


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

2chGUY said:


> Ok... Unless the manufacturer of the 1/8" CCF you used has somehow developed a product that's completely soundproof, your reasoning is off the mark.
> 
> I'll refrain from hammering on your build thread, but at best all you've done is dampen the door panel by providing another point of contact to the door tin.


So, is this to say creating another point of contact with the door skin will increase or decrease the possibility of resonance?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

2chGUY said:


> Ok... Unless the manufacturer of the 1/8" CCF you used has somehow developed a product that's completely soundproof, your reasoning is off the mark.
> 
> I'll refrain from hammering on your build thread, but at best all you've done is dampen the door panel by providing another point of contact to the door tin.


ORLY?

Go conduct the experiment on your own vehicle before continuing on this path. That's what I did. Once you try it, I doubt you'll ever go without it. And it makes sense, it serves as a crude "waveguide" and keeps sound from creating all sorts of cancellation points in the door. Simple experiment to prove it: take a large board, large enough to let you stand or sit behind it, and cut a small hole (~5") so your mouth can be seen through. Now have an observer listen to you talk with your mouth about 4" or so from that hole. Then, take and cup your hands and complete the same. We are doing the same here.



Edit:

Also please keep in mind, we are talking a space of approximately 3/4" or so (varies as the door panel is not parallel to the speaker), and when rolled we are talking about a CCF material (and air in the the middle of the rolled-up space) exceeding 1/3". From not doing it to doing it, there is a noticeable improvement in the mid-range. This modification does not improve the bass response.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Too late now but I would have made the baffle in the shape of the inner grill and then used multiple layers of high density foam tape in place of the CCF. It would give you two very flat parallel surfaces to compress the foam nice and good. Might also look better from the outside it the sun were to shine in on the grill.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> ORLY?
> 
> Go conduct the experiment on your own vehicle before continuing on this path. That's what I did. Once you try it, I doubt you'll ever go without it. And it makes sense, it serves as a crude "waveguide" and keeps sound from creating all sorts of cancellation points in the door. Simple experiment to prove it: take a large board, large enough to let you stand or sit behind it, and cut a small hole (~5") so your mouth can be seen through. Now have an observer listen to you talk with your mouth about 4" or so from that hole. Then, take and cup your hands and complete the same. We are doing the same here.


Yes really....

Reread the post I responded to before you choose to try and follow me down this path . Before we go any further, have you obtained permission from Mr. Geddes for the use of the term "waveguide"...? He gets his panties in quite the bunch when people group whatever experiment they have and/or had tried into the "waveguide" convention.



Fourthmeal said:


> so no sound coming from the speaker will play into the space between the door panel and the door itself. By blocking this off, the threat of cancellation, resonance, and other bad things is greatly reduced


Now think about what you've stated above, and then reread what I replied with... What you're claiming is that the gasket is preventing any sound from entering the space between the door card and inner skin, which is of course an impossibility. ...and that impossibility makes the rest of your claim unfounded... What you have done is support the door card more efficiently, and most likely smooth out some nasty reflections you were getting from the speaker location.

I have no doubt it does sound better, however you reasoning behind why it does is a little off.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

FWIW, Dr Geddes does not own the trademark to "waveguide." I don't know why someone would have to get his permission to use the term.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

The foam idea is probably a good one.

I think I would have mounted the subs on the box facing inside the car...get all of the bass in there and not have to worry about it snaking it's way in the car.

The second build looks better than the first. The first was too bulky IMO.

They don't make a wiring harness adapter for that Ford?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

thehatedguy said:


> The foam idea is probably a good one.
> 
> I think I would have mounted the subs on the box facing inside the car...get all of the bass in there and not have to worry about it snaking it's way in the car.
> 
> ...


Every time I've done subs facing the front, the bass response has suffered. I have learned to treat subs differently ever since. They compress the air in the cabin, pure and simple. But cancellation seems to rear its head much worse in forward-firing setups. As a result, I won't do it again. 

And yes, there's a wiring harness in there. What is making the wiring look so messy (besides my habit of using many different colors of wire for ID purposes) is the use of a relay for the video bypass, and a relay for remote turn-on use. However everything is soldered and heat-shrinked properly so it is all to spec.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I used the 3/4" foam weatherstripping around my speakers. I got the idea from someone's build log on here. Maybe pictures in npdang's Effective Door Treatment thread?


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

thehatedguy said:


> FWIW, Dr Geddes does not own the trademark to "waveguide." I don't know why someone would have to get his permission to use the term.


FWIW, maybe I should point out I was being facetious... Even though I was directing my Geddes comment toward 4thM, who does have a better grasp of my method of posting...

However to break it down further.... According to Geddes, he first coined the term "waveguide" to illustrate his work as it related to controlling/focusing a compression driver's polar response by "guiding" it's diffusion pattern. I can't say whether or not he does hold a patent on the term, and I'm frankly surprised you can. However, I do know he does hold a patent on the construction method he developed, which incidentally was thusly named, a "waveguide". 

So if one was to hold true of the meaning of what a waveguide actually is (regardless of the Geddes arguement), and what it does... What 4thM has done with the foam, is way off the mark.


Other then that...., nice build so far 4th


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

LOL I'm just "guiding the waves" out of the door panel, thas' it.


Its a good thing I like you, Jay. Otherwise you'd be a *******. lol.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Actually the things he has patented are the oblate spheriod entry into the waveguide and the use of foam to control higher order modes within the waveguide. Aside from the OS expansion his waveguides are of the conical type...he holds more patents, but those are the ones pertaining towards waveguides.

At one point USD held the trademark for the term "waveguide" as applied to a car audio speaker.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

good to know you can use google


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> LOL I'm just *"guiding the waves"* out of the door panel, thas' it.


Ah... I don't recall saying the above^^^

What I did say you were doing was:


2chguy said:


> What you have done is support the door card more efficiently, and most likely smooth out some nasty reflections you were getting from the speaker location


Quote me accurately my friend, or no matter how friendly we are, we'll end up throwing down...


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Google? Whatcha talking about Willis? I've been on DIYA for a long time...in those threads with Dr. Geddes.


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

2chGUY said:


> good to know you can use google


LOL! Joo kno who joo be talkin' to?? :laugh:

Diggin' it so far, Lanson. Nice job on the enclosures.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

mikey7182 said:


> LOL! Joo kno who joo be talkin' to?? :laugh:


I know exactly who I am talking to.... :dunce:


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

You are giving me too much credit for being able to find something like that using Google.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

probably....


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

2chGUY said:


> Quote me accurately my friend, or no matter how friendly we are, we'll end up throwing down...


4thM and I have had a heart to heart, and the end result was he agreed he shouldn't post without consulting with me first....lol


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

4th, nice build man. Even with a "hodge-podge" I think you said of equipment, it's turning out nice. I like the new design much better but as a carpenter, I can appreciate the angles you used in the first box building. 

I'm not sure how this thread go turned into a debate on waveguides but I got your theory on the foam and how you used it. I can see how it would work. 

I'm interested to see more progress, NOT ON THE USELESS DEBATE, but the build. Nice to see new builds on here. Keep up the good work.

EDIT: Forgot to ask, where are you getting your ensolite from?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Don at Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information is where I got the foam you are looking at. I also used Ensolite from Rick at RAAM RAAMaudio for the trunk.


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> I'm interested to see more progress, NOT ON THE USELESS DEBATE, but the build. Nice to see new builds on here. Keep up the good work.


The useless debate as you call it, is actually an exchange of information, which helps clarify the purpose and result of 4thM's efforts...

If you just like pretty pictures, may I suggest you default your web browser to google.com/images


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You can suggest but I can deny! I do prefer the "pretty pictures" but I also like to see a build for once on this site that doesn't get picked apart by the "technical crew" (oh that's right I shouldn't quote that cause you might think you said that, but you didn't, it's just what I call you people who feel the need to correct everyone's slip of the tongue). I get it you guys are all friends, great. More power to you! 

I think most people understood what he was talking about, at least I think they did cause a few made positive comments on trying, and I as an amateur Diyer certainly understood it but I can only speak for myself. But then, because he didn't refer to the technical term correctly, as far as your concerned, it gets picked apart. 

Not everything on this site has to be perfect, and if the technical crew (see no quotes this time) does, then feel free to start up a "key words thread" so the rest of us who don't really care about the technical terms could look it up to understand what the rest of you are talking about. 

Some people want to understand it all, like me, but for the most part it's too far over our heads and we hate to ask for help cause we get the "try searching first before you ask questions" comment even after we've spent countless hours searching and to still not understand it. Then you have the other people who surf around looking for ideas and what works for people and try to use it on their builds, who don't even surface because they've seen what happens to people when they do ask questions. 

Just saying not everything has to be perfect as a lot of you think it does. That's all I'm gonna say about it. I'm sure you're gonna get your digs in, and I'm sure you've got 1000 comebacks to what I've said, so i'll anxiously (not really) await your response while I anxiously (truly) await more progress pictures in this "BUILD LOG'. 

Wow I feel better don't you!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Jay's concern (thus resolved) is the fact I used the word "Resonance" instead of the intended phrase "diffraction and reflection", thus the miscommunication that made up the majority of comments here.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> Don at Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information is where I got the foam you are looking at. I also used Ensolite from Rick at RAAM RAAMaudio for the trunk.


Thanks I'll look into that. I've been using cheap anti fatigue mats from Harbor freight, partially cause it's so cheap (10.00 for a pack of 4 2sq ft mats.). Seems to work well. It's just really thick, like 3/8". so for something like the floor it's good, and maybe a roof between the bracing, but not for doors or something that a panel would go over.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

FYI I didn't do **** tonight.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> FYI I didn't do **** tonight.


Constipation is a *****.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

2chGUY said:


> Yes really....
> 
> Reread the post I responded to before you choose to try and follow me down this path . Before we go any further, have you obtained permission from Mr. Geddes for the use of the term "waveguide"...? He gets his panties in quite the bunch when people group whatever experiment they have and/or had tried into the "waveguide" convention.
> 
> ...



Hey know it all, go **** on someone else's build thread


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## 2chGUY (Feb 1, 2009)

trojan fan said:


> Hey know it all, go **** on someone else's build thread


Thanks... I'll take that as a compliment 

It's a shame members here no longer care about the theory behind the practice, and rather hammer on the inconsequential activity of someone trying to bring light to a concept.

Regardless of the bottom feeders taking shots at me, I'm not going anywhere. As I have more interest in watching 4thM's progress then any of the haters do.

enjoy


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hey 4th, do you have any pretty pictures to put up yet? I've searched out google, I need some fresh stuff to look at.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Hey 4th, do you have any pretty pictures to put up yet? I've searched out google, I need some fresh stuff to look at.


This build hasn't moved forward since my last update. Interesting weather and extra-curricular activities instead.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I hear that. Mines been held up because of extra-curricular activities, and just plain lack of time. Oh and that little bit the last couple days of being sick! But I'm about to start mocking everything up and getting it going! Sooo excited! Long time coming for sure! 

Looking forward to more of your great work!


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Who is taking shots at you and who are the haters? The only person hating on anything is you.

Of your 550some posts, 15 have been made outside of Off Topic...and a 1/3rd of those are in this thread. You read some words one time and decided to repeat them...but you didn't/don't understand what they mean, and when got corrected, you started with the ego tripping.



2chGUY said:


> Thanks... I'll take that as a compliment
> 
> It's a shame members here no longer care about the theory behind the practice, and rather hammer on the inconsequential activity of someone trying to bring light to a concept.
> 
> ...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Update:

Worked this weekend on many parts of the system

Got most of the amp rack done



















Ground done


























Test fitting the amp rack cover


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I decided to flip the box and fire those subs up. This gives the owner much more room in the trunk. 

















Notice the angled brackets, they'll hold everything together once its in.

Back side of the amp rack.










Sub box mounted in


























Top rack installed, right above the sub box









Main cover on










I still need to connect the amps and mount them, mount the crossovers, and mount the distribution block. I also need to wire up the battery and then tune the system.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Going to try and finish this one this weekend, its been a while now. 

Still have to finish up final wiring, and tune.


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## 4ofakind (Jan 22, 2010)

Fourthmeal,

What part of Vegas you in? Can I come see this build in person; maybe even lend a hand?

Mal


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Project complete!

Amp rack mostly put together. The crossovers are on the left, and the ground and distribution blocks are on the right. Amps are both exactly the same, but I wanted the RCA's in the center while the power and speaker wires on the outside. To make that work, I just dismounted one of the amp's top logos and remounted it "right-side up" in my configuration. 


















This is the fuse block for the amp turn-on circuits, and the lighting. The power for this block comes from the relayed power wire from the head unit. You can get these from Autozone or similar, pretty cheap.

















Each sub is wired independently, so the 4ch amp can bridge to each one. The subs are D2, so internally they are series-wired to 4ohm, which the amp does best with bridged. 









I wired up the speaker connections. In this case I actually soldered all of them. 









Test fitting of the amp rack's cover.









Crossovers wired up, ready to go.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

More amp rack









Power and grounds wired up, techflex and heatshrink blah blah









Test fit of the trunk parts

















With the shelf removed


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Finish pics!


















The trunk is illuminated with these

















Amp rack complete, wired up, and powered










Amp rack cover on 









View from the front seat

















Car is no longer a wreck


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nice work! Just curious, but why didn't you mount the amps so they would be evenly shown on the trim panel? Not knocking just wondering.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Nice work! Just curious, but why didn't you mount the amps so they would be evenly shown on the trim panel? Not knocking just wondering.



I assume you mean at the angle of the seatback, not upright, correct? If so, the answer is depth and lighting. In the dark, those lights streak up the amp like a propane burner lit up. When I test-fit at an angle, what I noticed was that I needed to shove everything back another inch or so. It would completely work either way.



FYI, I just wrote up a 30 minute long review of the system but my baby kid crawled by, slapped the keyboard, and canceled my post. When I'm uhh...up to spending the time again, I'll post it. Maybe while I'm at work!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

install looks really good. nice job on it


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Appreciated! 

Its just a simple and relatively light design.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> I assume you mean at the angle of the seatback, not upright, correct? If so, the answer is depth and lighting. In the dark, those lights streak up the amp like a propane burner lit up. When I test-fit at an angle, what I noticed was that I needed to shove everything back another inch or so. It would completely work either way.
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, I just wrote up a 30 minute long review of the system but my baby kid crawled by, slapped the keyboard, and canceled my post. When I'm uhh...up to spending the time again, I'll post it. Maybe while I'm at work!


Yea that's what I meant. You just have the leds at the bottom right? I'm thinking that's what I saw anyway. 

Bottom line, it still looks good. Nice work!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Yea that's what I meant. You just have the leds at the bottom right? I'm thinking that's what I saw anyway.
> 
> Bottom line, it still looks good. Nice work!



Yeah, the LED strips are mounted to that little brace you can see at the bottom, right above the amps. The slight angle it is at makes the light flash up the amps like propane burners. In retrospect, I could rebuild it at the same angle if I use a subwoofer box that is also angled. In this case, this system is built around a box I originally had. As you can tell from the beginning of the build, I had one box designed planned and built, but had to change up 1/2 way through. I decided to reuse another box because I was tired of shopping at Home Depot for more wood. LOL. One thing turned into another...

It works well though, the amps have plenty of breathing room, and everything turned out decent I think. 

I appreciate the comments guys!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I agree. Turned out nice! Although I have to disagree. I'm not sure I've ever uttered the words "I was tired of shopping at Home Depot" EVER in my life! I could live at that place! :laugh: But I get what you mean. Sometimes shopping takes longer than building, and at that point you just have to say F it!


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## EricP72 (Mar 23, 2008)

Hey I know this is old. I love the install but I just wanted to know the brand of the amps.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

manish said:


> Hey I know this is old. I love the install but I just wanted to know the brand of the amps.





fourthmeal said:


> Head unit - Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD
> Front speakers - (for now) Pioneer TS-D1720C component set, passive (again, for now.)
> Rear speakers - stock, run off deck
> *Amplifiers - 2x DLS X-D40 X-Program amps. *
> ...


X-D40 - 4 channel amplifier


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## P8ntballa57 (Jan 3, 2012)

Good Work sir!


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