# Ericn Mazda CX-7



## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Hey everyone,

With Doitor's guidance and extreme patience on my side I've decided to do a CX-7 install. I'll be posting pics along the way and need a lot of help since this is my first custom install.

System as currently planned:
1. Legatia L1 in pillars powered by Alpine MVR-T420 (110x2)
2. Legatia L4 in doors powered by JL 300/4 (150x2) - don't have this amp yet so open to suggestions
3. Elemental Designs 13aV.2 powered by ED Nine.1 (900x1)
3. Alpine CDA-9886 w/ iPod cable and AiNet run to processor
4. PXA-H100 

Down the road I'll put some Legatia L8s in the doors and move L4s to kicks. I'll need a new amp and better processor at this point.

I took advantage of my day off to start removing pieces so once my RAAMmAT BXT arrives I will be ready. I just bought one roll along w/ 3 yards of Ensolite, but not sure if that will be enough. I also have some extra Dynamat and ED that I can use as well.

first pic is the exposed dash. It was pretty easy to remove. I'll use an American Int'l dash kit and wiring harness. (notice the screws on either side of the console panels up under the AC controls. These require a Z screw driver that I need to buy so that is why the console isn't out yet.









Pic of the American Int'l wiring harness plugged in. I will TechFlex the wiring once it arrives along w/ heat shrink the solder jobs:









These are the four wires on the wiring harness that I'm not sure what to do with. Please help!









Here is pic of passenger side kick panel area. I'm not sure how to pass speaker wire to the doors, so any advice would be great.









Here is a pic of the rear cargo area w/ backseats removed. I plan to do a false floor for the amps that will need to hinge so I can access the spare. This will need a lot of planning still. Notice I left the rear side paneling in cuz I was gonna try and find a way to snake the 0 gauge down the driver side, speaker down the pass side and run them behind that paneling since it looks like a pain to remove. Think I'll just suck it up and remove it later this afternoon when I do the console so I can RAAMmat more.









Next steps for the coming week:
1. Remove console and rear sides today
2. Install dash kit today
3. Remove driver/pass seats when RAAMmat arrives next week and do the floor of the vehicle.
4. Run 0-gauge power and do Big 3 when cabling arrives next week
5. Install HU when AiNet cable arrives next week

Thanks for any help!


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

That's an AWESOME car you got there, Eric.
Nice start on the install.
Sent you a pm.

Jorge.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Thankd Doior!

Here is a shot of the rear w/ the console and side panels removed. This is about as much as I can do and still have it drivable until the RAAMmat comes. Then I'll remove both front seats and the carpet. Didn't do the HU cuz I couldn't find the hex screws needed to replace factory phillips.









Any guesstimate on how much I'll be able to cover with one roll of RAAMmat? I'm trying to determine if one roll will do a couple layers in each front doors as well as the entire floor and some of the sides.


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## fit_tuner (Aug 14, 2006)

full size spare ftw


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Quick question, if the remote wire is meant to be soldered to the factory wire like all the rest in the harness, why does it have a bullet connector on it? all the other wires that go to factory harness are bare wire. Should I be using remote from somewhere else? 

I believe the PXA-H100 will use the HU remote.

Thanks


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Yesterday's update:

Chalk this one up to "Nothing can ever be easy". When ISO mounting the 9886 the supplied screws from both Alpine and kit company weren't long enough. You can see from the picture that the screw won't even make it through the kit spacer to the HU. Going to HomeDepot during lunch to see if they have some M5x13mm.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Another small update, mainly just waiting for a majority of my gear to get here tomorrow. I was able to get some M5x12mm screws from HomeDepot that did the trick so the ISO mount is complete along w/ the hazard switch.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Let me know if anyone is getting anything out of this. I've received no replies, so don't want to keep putting up pics if it is redundant. 

Thanks


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

I'm watching


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## BMWturbo (Apr 11, 2008)

Looks good mate...

It's great to keep a visual/written record of your installs


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## hibuhibu (Sep 11, 2006)

Don't worry. We are watching.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Alright, thnx for the feedback. Today I should be getting several deliveries so look for pix. My goal this evening is to remove both front seats, pull the carpet and lay two layers of RAAMmat up front. Since this thing is a daily driver I need to get it done in one evening and get the seats back in.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I'm watching too


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Looking forward to your 13a.V2 install. Are you planning ported or sealed? I've got a e12a going off a nine.1 in a new install I'll hopefully be starting soon. Much like you, I'm waiting on parts.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

I have the sealed box from Elemental Designs. I bought it from them when I was going to have the shop do the install. Nowt that I'm doing it all I should have just made the box myself...oh well, hopefully their box is good.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Got home today and a lot of my goodies had arrived.

Elemental Designs 13aV2 sealed enclosure (I ordered the pack of 1/4" hex bolts and T-nuts from PartsExpress to install, but how do I get the T-nuts in since the box is already built?):


















H100 processor, 14 gauge speaker wire, ton of 0 gauge rings for big 3, 8 gauge power for HU, and 4 gauge power/ground for amps:









Misc TechFlex and Heatshring:









RAAMmat and Ensolite:











Of course tonight I wasn't able to get away from work until late, but the goal was to put two layers of RAAMmat down in the front. This or course meant removing the seats which were impossible to unbolt w/ out me having to go buy a cheap impact wrench. This means I didn't get started until about 8:00pm. After 3 hours I'm about 3/4 of the way done.I'd forgotten how tedious sound deadening is. That RAAMmat is also VERY tacky, I went through about 10 pairs of disposable gloves. I have a couple hours before I go to work in the morning and I hope to finish it up so I can lay the Ensolite tomorow evening up front.

Beginning of evening w/ seats and carpet out:









Passenger side w/ two layers of RAAMmat (notice how my scissors are now a tar ball, anything you work with while installing RAAMmat will be pretty sticky afterwards):


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## hibuhibu (Sep 11, 2006)

Be sure to put some of them on the doors. CX-7 allows alot of noise to come in from the doors.


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## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

very nice build log!


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Oh yeah, the doors are going to get theirs! I'm just trying to do it in stages since this is my daily driver and cannot be in too many pieces at any given time. I went ahead and ordered a second roll of RAAMmat after seing how quickly I was burning through this first roll.

Lyttleviet, thanks!


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Looks good so far. I wish I had the patience to do my floor in my car, but I don't have the time or like I said patience to do so. So mad respect on that! In for some more pics and good luck on the rest of the install!


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks Irish! It is a pain, but I'm betting it pays off. It is taking more RAAMmat than I expected since I went through one roll on just the front floor alone by using two layers. I have another roll that will be here tomorrow and I'll do the front doors and see how many more rolls I'll need...expensive...


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Guys, this is taking longer than I expected, so I should be able to come up w/ the funds for the Legatia L8 for the doors before I complete the install. Can I use the 9886 and H100 with the L1, L4, L8, and sub? Or did I waste money on the unopened H100?


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## LiquidClen (Dec 27, 2005)

Looks good, cant wait for updates


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Decided not to plan for the L8s in the doors and instead sell the L4s and get some L6s to put in the doors to go w/ the L1s. So I will have a 3-way active and can still use the H100 and 9886 I already have.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Only small progress last night since I'm still waiting on my 1/0 gauge cable and more RAAMmat to come in.

I went ahead and put a layer of Ensolite on the pass front floor. Stuff is a breeze to lay down:









Also removed the door paneling for both pass side doors in anticipation of the RAAMmat coming in today. I have no idea how I'm going to get the inner membrane back together, the power window motor is a pain to line-up. Other than that it was a smooth removal:


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Need help on power layout.

I currently have one 1/0 gauge going from battery to fused distro in the rear of vehicle. From that distro I will have two 4 gauge and one 8 gauge going to the three amps. I now need to get power from this distro to the HU and H100 processor. Please tell me how to do that.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

For the HU use the one on the factory harness.
For the H100 depends on where you are going to put it.
It should be on the back, near the amps to have short RCA runs.
If you do it like that, just take power from the distro block.
The H100 should have it's own fuse to protect it.

Jorge.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Ok, so power HU using factory harness. 

For the processor, I was going to put it in the back, but now I'm thinking under the driver seat since it didn't come w/ a long enough run of AiNet cable. Maybe I can look into an extension since I'd rather it be in the back and I bought short RCA runs for this reason.

Thanks


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

good stuff i still need to deaden my floors after seeing every1 doin it.  gotta take sometime next weekend.


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

ericnord said:


> Ok, so power HU using factory harness.
> 
> For the processor, I was going to put it in the back, but now I'm thinking under the driver seat since it didn't come w/ a long enough run of AiNet cable. Maybe I can look into an extension since I'd rather it be in the back and I bought short RCA runs for this reason.
> 
> Thanks


Get a longer Ai-Net cable and put the H100 in the back near the amps.
That way you get:
-Easier access to power/ground from distro blocks
-Shorter power and groung wires
-Shorter RCA's
-Less chance of noise
-Shorter remote for amps.

Jorge.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Hey you can find some picture of how I sneak the wires to the door, the CX-7 molex connector is very easy to take off, compared to my mazda 6.

Click this link and look on the middle of the page I have some pictures there.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39379&page=2

The mazda cx-7 is very easy do because you can see the connector by only removing the kick panel and moving a wirring connector that's there.

On my mazda 6 the molex connector is way up in the dash


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Khanhfat - Plan on the whole weekend! It is a pain...

Doitor - Will do, thanks!

CRD - That blue piece that holds the two together was a major pain trying to get back on once both pieces were together. Finally managed on the passenger side, gonna try driver's side now.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Today's Update:

Was out of RAAMmat, but UPS was delivering a roll. Problem is they don't get here until late afternoon and I took the day off.

So I decided to go ahead and remove all the door trims in prep for the RAAMmat since I was hoping to deaden all 4 doors today. After removing the trim I decided to go ahead and run the speaker wire to the front doors.

Ended up finding a nice place in the connectors that I could snake some 12 gauge wire through

Here is the connector removed:

















Drilled using my Dremel and a regular drill bit. Tried act like I was a dentist and took it slow and steady so I didn't break through the other sides:

















Put the connector back together and fed the speaker wire through:









Looks stock:










All done up front:


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Later in the day my roll of RAAMmat came!

Went straight to it starting on the front doors.

Ended up w/ two layers on the outer door and one layer on the inner door:









Followed it up w/ a layer of ensolite on the outer door:









Then put one layer on parts of the inner membrane and around the speaker hole:











Unfortunately that took up the whole damn roll, so now I'm $200 in on sound deadner and only have two doors and a front cabin to show! still have the entire rear cargo area and two back doors. Guess I'll order two more and some more ensolite as well...


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Today's update, received my 0-gauge cable so I wired up the engine. Added an 0-gauge ground and ran the power cable to the rear of the vehicle with an in-line fuse in the engine capartment. 

Any fuse size recommendation? If I'm fusing the wire than I assume 250 would be ok for 0-gauge.

Pic of factory ground location:









Took it down to bare metal:









Made up my cabling with TechFlex and heatshrink:









Found the wiring hole in firewall (grey rubber in back):









Cut a hole in the rubber, ran the power wire down the driver's side complete w/ TechFlex. Installed in-line fuse holder on top of factory fuse holder. Added a Stinger negative battery terminal and connected factory grounds plus my 0-gauge to that.:


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## garvinzoom (Mar 23, 2008)

Looking good. Wish I had the push to get the work in my 3 done this fast.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Been swamped this week, but received my rolls of RAAMmat from Rick. That is one stand up guy, recommend highly!

So this week I need to finish complete sound deadening, but I'm also getting everything else ready.

Here is where I'm at on the amps. I have this MRV-T420 that puts out 110x2 @ 4ohms. That is appx [email protected], so seems perfect for the L1s.

The JL 300/4 is 75wx4 @ 4ohms for $389.00. I can get a ED Nine.4 that is 65wx4 @4ohm for $245.00. I could use this to power both the L1 and L6, but 65w to the L6 is low since it states 150w on HAT website.
However, if I use this to only drive the L6 I can bridge and get 150w and save $140.00 over the JL.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

I'll have an update later this evening of the deadening finally done. What a pain. 25+ hours just to get the car deadened 

Also decided on a final power strategy:
Hybrid Audio L1 tweeters powered by Alpine MRV-T420 (110 per channel)
Hybrid Audio L6 midbass powered by Elemental Designs Nine.4 (bridged 150 per channel)
Elemental Designs 13aV2 sub powered by Elemental Designs Nine.1 (bridged 1200w x 1)

Appx 1500w overall so it should be good!

Hope to get L6 speakers rings made and midbass speakers mounted this weekend along w/ starting the amp rack.

Stay tuned.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Yesterday's update:

Finished up w/ the sound deadening!

Here is the cargo area empty:









With two layers of RAAMmat (Rick is the damn man, talked to this guy on several occasions and he is a straight talking class act!):









With one layer of Ensolite on the floor, not the sides yet:









Here is Ensolite now applied to the front passenger door. These doors now have 2 layers of RAAMmat on the inner outward wall, one layer on the inner inner wall, one layer on the outer membrane, one layer inner membrane, one layer ensolite, and one layer RAAMmat on the inner panel:









A few extra pieces of Ensolite and RAAMmat directly behind where the mids will live:


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Big Update:

I was able to work both Sat and Sun all day on my install, so made a lot of progress. Front stage speakers are installed and A-pillars are painted. All speaker and power wire run and started putting some of the car back together!

First task was to make a speaker ring, so I first made a quick cardboard template:









Then I used my jigsaw to cut out the template and hole. It isn't perfectly straight, but couldn't bring myself to buy a Router just for two damn rings. Installed nuts for speaker's hex screws:









Used some liquid nail and some wood screws to mount the MFD to the plastic door membrane:









Installed the Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia 6 Midbass driver in the doors using hex scews:


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Now it is on to the tweets in the A-pillars!

First I had to cut the holes and prepare the pillars for paint:









Then I cut it using my Dremel w/ a sanding attachment:









Then painted the A-pillar. Put one SEM Texture coat on, then two SEM Landau Black coats, then one more SEM Texture coat, then some Matte Clear that I got from Homedepot. A got a couple flakes while I was installing the A-pillars, so not sure if I needed to prep the plastic first, or if I didn't let it dry long enough. We'll see how it goes, but may need to pull out again and sand before painting.









Then mounted the Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L1 using hex screws:









I used some nuts on the back and also some quick connects on the speaker wire:









Here is the other quick connect on the cable run up from under the dash:









Now some misc wiring run pics:


























All I'm waiting on now is the Ai-Net extension cable so I can install the HU, run the AI-net and Remote up the middle, then put the carpet back down and the seats. Then I can focus on mounting amps and sub in the back somehow.


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## hibuhibu (Sep 11, 2006)

Looking Good!


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Yesterday I was able to get the quick connects soldered on the HU harness and get the HU installed using hex screws:









The American Int'l harness only had a Power Ant, no Remote. Since the Power Ant was blue I used that even though there is no Power Ant on my CX-7. Hopefully it will work. I tried measuring it w/ multimeter, but still not sure if it is working.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Today's Update:

Ok, so over the last couple days I've been putting the car back together! I don't have any pictures of it, but it looks like it did before I took it apart....almost 

Today I started working on the false floor that will be in the rear cargo area. First thing I did cut the bottom piece w/ some 1/2" MDF using the rear cargo cover that came w/ the car as a template. I made notes on amp placement, wiring diagrams, etc on the wood:









Then I started adding 3/4" MDF supports and used a hole saw for wire runs:









Added more 3/4" MDF for support. Notice the extra focus in the top right corner. The ED 13aV.2 sub and box will sit right above this and it is a good 50+ lbs. I also made holes in the side supports for ventilation and for attaching PC fans later if I have heat issues:









Added the hinge piece so I can get to my spare tire as well as the distro blocks:









Then I ran all my pwr and grnd cabling. Used 4awg on the two ED amps and 8awg for the tweeter amp. Amps are not fixed to the board yet so I can still move them around to get to speaker wires and RCAs. H100 will be in the top right square (in case the sub falls through ):









Tomorrow I will work on making my RCA cables and then it will be show time. I'll drop it in the car and plug in all the cables. It will be judgement day since I've yet to test if anything actually works, which could be overconfidence on my part considering the car is back together (fingers crossed).


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Let me guess, you are into R/C ???

I always loved those DEAN connectors, you gave me a great idea for mine, I have a bunch of those connectos brand new in a bag.

Keep up the good work, it's looking nice


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Hey CRD,

Yeah, those Deans are from my R/C days! Glad I was able to give you an idea for your build. I also used the gold bullet connectors that you use on speed controllers for my HU install.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

ericnord said:


> Hey CRD,
> 
> Yeah, those Deans are from my R/C days! Glad I was able to give you an idea for your build. I also used the gold bullet connectors that you use on speed controllers for my HU install.


I do have those gold bullet too, from my brushless ESC, I have tons of them, I was looking for a good connector for my speakers, and those would work great they have a goo grip and they're clean.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Ok, I'll have pics later, but as of right now judgement day didn't turn out so well. I have the amp rack in and all pwr/grnd/rmt/rca/Ai-Net wires run and all the amps and PXA-H100 are getting a good 12v w/ the car on, but engine off. Problem is I'm not getting any signal  I know this because when I went to set gain on amps I only get milivolts at 75% volume out of the speaker terminals, so I plugged in a speaker and there is nothing.

So it seems I need to troubleshoot the signal system, so I have 9886 giving signal to H100 through the Ai-Net. There are no RCAs connected to the 9886. The 9886 sees the H100 because the expanded Imprint options appear. The H100 is giving signal to the amps through some Monster Home Theatre RCA (didn't have time to make my own yet). This seems pretty simple, so I'm assuming there is a setting or dip switch somewhere that is not correct. I left the dips on the 9886 at Norm instead of the Ext AP (or whatever it is).

Any ideas here?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I have the IDA-X100 and the H100, I haven't installed yet , but you should try to switch from NORM to EXT AMP on the bottom of the HU. I think I saw something about that on my HU manual when using the H100 processor, but I haven't tested it yet



ericnord said:


> Ok, I'll have pics later, but as of right now judgement day didn't turn out so well. I have the amp rack in and all pwr/grnd/rmt/rca/Ai-Net wires run and all the amps and PXA-H100 are getting a good 12v w/ the car on, but engine off. Problem is I'm not getting any signal  I know this because when I went to set gain on amps I only get milivolts at 75% volume out of the speaker terminals, so I plugged in a speaker and there is nothing.
> 
> So it seems I need to troubleshoot the signal system, so I have 9886 giving signal to H100 through the Ai-Net. There are no RCAs connected to the 9886. The 9886 sees the H100 because the expanded Imprint options appear. The H100 is giving signal to the amps through some Monster Home Theatre RCA (didn't have time to make my own yet). This seems pretty simple, so I'm assuming there is a setting or dip switch somewhere that is not correct. I left the dips on the 9886 at Norm instead of the Ext AP (or whatever it is).
> 
> Any ideas here?


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks, that got the signal going, but now my tweeters are acting weird. 

When I play the 1khz tone they can't be heard until the volume gets about 50%, then at 75% one of them starts making a faint pulsing sound while still playing the tone, then it pops (clipping I guess).

Mids are good and loud below 50%. Tried the tweets on the mids amp and exact same thing, so it isn't amp.

Put in the IASCA test disk and the guys voice is not at all correct. Sounds like he is far away and it is also hard to understand through the tweets. When you turn up the volume, a white noise type sound increases at a greater rate than the voices. It sounds as if it thinks it is really loud!

Thoughts?


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Gonna need to throw in the towel now as I'm getting out of my league when it comes to problem solving this setup:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48025


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Today's update!

Was gone all week for work, but Glen305 and SublimeZ were nice enough to give me some of their time today and help me get things going. 

The 'pulsing' noise coming from the tweet has been narrowed down to either the offbrand AI-Net cable or the HU. I'm going to try the Alpine branded shorter Ai-net cable to see if that is it. Otherwise I may go for the 9887 and sell the H100.

Other than that Glen205 helped me set my crossover points and I'm at a good place to start fine tuning. 

Here is a pic of the bottom of the floor installed. I'll get a picture of the top piece w/ the sub on it this week:


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Cool, I'm glad to see you made some progress on the diagnosis. I've never played with the Imprint piece (it became widely available after I quit working for an Alpine dealer) so I couldn't be much help.

Off brand AI-net cable? Where did you pick it up? I've only ever seen Alpine (and Sony Unilink and JVC and Monster Cable) make those cables.

Good luck!

Jay


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks Jay! I got it off eBay since I couldn't find the Alp-Ext15 anywhere in stock. Crutchfiel doesn't even expect anymore in, so it seems Alpine no longer supplies them. However, I think they just changed the model numbers since Wooferetc has a CD changer cable from Alpine in stock, but w/ a different part number.


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Ok, so the 'pulsing' sound I was getting out of one of my tweets has been isolated to the Ai-Net replacement cable I bought from eBay (haven't been using the factory cable at all since it is only about 6 feet:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=120311409367

So do I get this and use it to extend the factory:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-W1tsJNbRPGR/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=127ALPEXT

Or do I get this:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=6228


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## Bill_Pleasant (Oct 28, 2007)

Why don't you just get one from Pac Parts? Part # 01T55561W37


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Hey Bill, they were about a month out last time I checked at Pac Parts directly.

Is there any preference between one run of 15ft AI-net or a 6 ft run of AI-Net and then three 9-12 foot runs of RCA?


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks to TXwrxWAGON for sending me an Alpine branded Ai-Net extra long cable. That got rid of the noise. I'm not sure what to say about off-brand cables like PAC-Parts, eBay, or the one at Woofersetc. since they all introduced the noise into my tweet. 

I'll update my build log with pics from this weekend later on in the week.

Thanks again TXwrxWAGON!


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

Ok, sorry for the week long delay in posting, but work has been busy.

After getting TXwrxWAGON's cable I was able to put everything back together and get to a "finished" place for the time being.

I went ahead and painted the amp rack:









Next step was to get all my speaker wires labeled, techflexed, heatshrunk, etc.:









Then I ran all my power cables and put the amps in and connected wiring:









I added some carpet to the back, folding, section as well as the false floor:



























Inside the car w/ the top off:









All together w/ the 13aV2 in a sealed box:


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Sooooooo......


How's it sound? 

Jay


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## ericnord (Sep 14, 2008)

It sounds good, but not where I want it. The H100 tuning kit seems very sensitive to microphone placement. I've had it sounding really good, but then if I run the tuning SW again it sounds different. This will just be trial and error on mic placement at this point, but everything is almost where it needs to be!

Here are the graphs from the tuning. They mean nothing to me, so let me know if they mean anything to you:

Linear:









Reference:









Reference w/ Mid Range Comps:


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