# Focal Utopia No.7 "Active" crossover settings...



## pdiddy403 (Aug 22, 2010)

Hello all...
I am currently using a Pioneer P99RS with a set of Focal Utopia No.7 "active" and would like to get some advise on high pass/low pass crossover settings, slope and phase adjustements to help me start things off.
Mid/tweet are high in the "A" pillar (Using Focal's "Mid Box") and bass drivers are high in the doors.
Thank you in advance for everyons' help!


----------



## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!

Here is a good starting line-up for you. Tweeter high pass frequency would be 4k at -12 db reverse phase. Band pass on the mid would be 3.2k at -12 db to 400 hz at -12 db. Low pass for the 6.5 would be 350 hz at -12 db reverse phase. Should sound pretty decent from that point. 

Nick Wingate Jr.
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi/Illusion Audio


----------



## FinnMarcus (Feb 29, 2012)

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> Here is a good starting line-up for you. Tweeter high pass frequency would be 4k at -12 db reverse phase. Band pass on the mid would be 3.2k at -12 db to 400 hz at -12 db. Low pass for the 6.5 would be 350 hz at -12 db reverse phase. Should sound pretty decent from that point.
> 
> ...


have to be honest, those settings made my setup sound absurd, why should i do reverse phase on some components, and not be in the frequency range of what focal is recommending? 

I'm new to the Active crossover settings area, and struggling to get my utopia no7 to sound what i want it to sound.

Do someone have any suggestions in what direction i can go at to get my no7 on the right track?


Thanks...


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

FinnMarcus said:


> have to be honest, those settings made my setup sound absurd, why should i do reverse phase on some components, and not be in the frequency range of what focal is recommending?
> 
> I'm new to the Active crossover settings area, and struggling to get my utopia no7 to sound what i want it to sound.
> 
> ...


Did you know that Nick is Focal's official wholesaler in the US? He knows a thing or 2 about the Utopia Be line too. 
If you don't like his recommendation, at least show him some respect, express what you don't like so that he can make another suggestion... 

Since you're new to active setups, don't discard suggestions like that (if you did try them, good for you). Sometimes things that sound absurd "can" work in car audio. 
Won't get much attention acting like that. 

Kelvin


----------



## FinnMarcus (Feb 29, 2012)

subwoofery said:


> Did you know that Nick is Focal's official wholesaler in the US? He knows a thing or 2 about the Utopia Be line too.
> If you don't like his recommendation, at least show him some respect, express what you don't like so that he can make another suggestion...
> 
> Since you're new to active setups, don't discard suggestions like that (if you did try them, good for you). Sometimes things that sound absurd "can" work in car audio.
> ...


Hello, i'm sorry if i sent a wrong message, my english is not so good and i should reformulate what i said.

I did not want to disrespect anyone. 

i tried the recommendation in my Opel Corsa C 2001mod. And got a odd result. My setup is the same as the thread starter, but my bass drivers is on the bottom of the doors, So thought that Mitsu1grn recommendations was usable in my car.

So again, sorry for being rude, it was not tended.

I would love to hear some more suggestions from Mitsu1grn.

Yours FinnW..


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

FinnMarcus said:


> Hello, i'm sorry if i sent a wrong message, my english is not so good and i should reformulate what i said.
> 
> I did not want to disrespect anyone.
> 
> ...


Don't worry, I was not trying to be all that bad either. I know internet can be deceiving sometimes. 

It's all cool  

Kelvin


----------



## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!

To the gentleman who has the Opel....if you would give me some idea as to what your system sounds like now and what you are trying to achieve, We on this forum might be able to talk to you and get you there. There are a number of people who preside in this forum who have years of experience tuning systems actively. I am confident that with time and patience you can achieve what you are listening for in your vehicle. 

As to why I recommend certain crossover frequencies, it comes down to experience and actual measurements of the drives you are using. 

Nick


----------



## nigeDLS (Nov 5, 2011)

I believe the reason for phase swapping would be due to the 12dB slopes that were suggested. 

I don't see why those settings wouldn't sound ok, of course it could be better but as a starting point they don't seem wrong at all.


----------



## FinnMarcus (Feb 29, 2012)

subwoofery said:


> Don't worry, I was not trying to be all that bad either. I know internet can be deceiving sometimes.
> 
> It's all cool
> 
> Kelvin






Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> To the gentleman who has the Opel....if you would give me some idea as to what your system sounds like now and what you are trying to achieve, We on this forum might be able to talk to you and get you there. There are a number of people who preside in this forum who have years of experience tuning systems actively. I am confident that with time and patience you can achieve what you are listening for in your vehicle.
> 
> ...


Hi, and thanks for reply, i was reading more carefully threw the P99RS manual, and figured out that i was thinking wrongly about the reverse phase.

I went directly in the phase selector and turned it to reverse on the components you where telling about.

As shown in the manual, it tells me that i was thinking wrong.









I did a retry whit the instructions you wrote in this thread, and got great results. It even sounded better than the auto eq and speaker distance setup whit the mic. I did a manual length distance messuring and tweaked it a bit further, and the sound got dead center with a great sound stage. I'm looking forwards to tweak it more to get better result.

I also have a Utopia 33WX in a 45 liter ported enclosure. At the moment, i have the crossover slope at -12 and lowpass at 63 hz, what do you recommend here? and also, where should the highpass on the 6.5 bass be? 63hz and slope at -12 ? i can see that in the manual, it is recommended at 60Hz highpass.

Thanks again 




nigeDLS said:


> I believe the reason for phase swapping would be due to the 12dB slopes that were suggested.
> 
> I don't see why those settings wouldn't sound ok, of course it could be better but as a starting point they don't seem wrong at all.


Hehe, yepp, as i wrote above, it was a great idea..


PS. I hope its ok to continue questioning on this thread *pdiddy403*


----------



## FinnMarcus (Feb 29, 2012)

Bump? oke:


----------



## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!

Depending on how well your doors are damped, your high pass on the 6W3 Be could be from 80 hz to 50 hz. That is something that your ears will tell you. There really isn't a set value for any bass driver in a door or any enclosure to tell you the truth. My tuning experience has taught me that by listening to the bass driver and determining at what frequency distortion is diminished is a great place to cross the Bass driver at!

For instance, some doors that are not damped very well will resonate at a relatively high frequency, say 100 hz or so. That usually means that a steep crossover filter should be used,( -24db), to minimize the resonance problems and the resulting phase shift.

In a well damped door or enclosure the resonance is minimized and the crossover frequency will be lower and the Bass driver COULD be allowed to roll off naturally at a shallow slope and have no high pass used at all.

In your case I wish I could say that this frequency, ( xx hz), is the magic one and go from there. I can't without listening to your system. My recommendation would be to listen to your system with your subs off and just let the 6W3BE's play full range and see how they handle lower bass notes. You will know when they sound good and when the sound bad. Since you have the No.7 kit I would assume you have the Focal Test CD that came with them. Use those frequency sweeps in the lower frequencies and determine just where the resonance is the least and that would be where I would start. 

Since we have started using the -12db slopes on the mid to bass filters I would suggest you stay with that -12db slope or go to a -24 db slope if the resonance is severe. Be sure to remember that when you do this that the low pass filter on the subs should correspond and invert phasing on the subs and this system should sound pretty good. 

Later on if you would like to try aligning the phase of the system to the subs with signal delay please let me know and Ill try and give you an idea of how to do it. The auto alignment in the Pioneer is not very good in my opinion and your ears are way better test microphones anyway!

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi/Illusion Audio America


----------



## Juls1 (Sep 8, 2012)

I'm probably a bit late, but I found this thread Trawling google thought i would post for others benefit,

I've run the no7 active for about 3 years now, 

I'm running my set with 33WX2 in a sealed box, in a ute, (small truck for US pplz speak) Running off 2 x soundstream van gogh 500.4 through a Alpine PXA-H701.

It is worth noting that my mid and tweet are nearly on axis, that is, that the opposite driver is entirely on axis with that side ear, and the other is pointing in the same direction at the other seat, making that side off axis about 30 deg. 

After breakin, which is a good 100+ hours, 
The settings I use most are.

TBE/3W2 2.2-2.5khz 24/db
3W2/6W3 280hz-315hz 24/db
6W3/33WX2 71,80,90 24/db

Observations in my setup, 

when on axis, the 3W2 is a little harsh through the 2-5khz range, this can be mistaken for tweeter issues if your not aware of it, run off axis I believe this wouldn't be noticed, This is why I run a low tweeter cutoff, in my setup the tweeter works flawlessly at these crossover points. It's worth noting, that TBE's with less than 50 hours on them, may not respond to cutoffs under 4-5k as well as they do after 50-100 hours. 

In my setup where the subwoofer is basically about 1 metre from my ear, and there is no obstruction, the 33WX2 is far more capable in the 60-100hz range than the 6W3, in my specific setup the 6W3 sounds thick and boomy below 80hz, the 33WX is far more capable in this region, is clean, fast, tight and neutral with no distortion at all. For this reason I mainly run 90hz crossover with my 6W3, I don't suffer any subwoofer dragback, but this is part of getting everything else right, the x/over point isn't too much to do with that. 

in the upper of the 6W3, depending on your setup, and depending on the enclosure you used on your 3W2, I found the 3W2 to get thin under about 250hz, and couldn't keep up with the level i wanted to run the 6W3, however any crossover over the 315hz mark the 6W3 starts to cloud the midrange, so the sweet spot in my setup sways from 280hz-315hz. 

Forget your preconceptions and ideas of what should/shouldn't work based on data, try things outside that square and you will have a better understanding what works within your setup.

Every car, every piece of equiptment, and every install will change the outcome of what actual x/over points work for your system. 

A few things, Don't mix x/over slopes, they all stuff with the phase, active is not immune to this. This set has good enough response to use 24db across the board, i suggest you stick to that.

Hope this helps.
Julian.


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

HELLO,

I've got a Utopia N7 3 ways active set recently. After setting up with Audison Bit One HD, I discovered that the sounds are too thin. Any idea of solving this problem?

thx


----------



## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

michael33 said:


> HELLO,
> 
> I've got a Utopia N7 3 ways active set recently. After setting up with Audison Bit One HD, I discovered that the sounds are too thin. Any idea of solving this problem?
> 
> thx


It's either install related or tuning or both. 
The no7 set is definitely not the problem.

Can you post pics of install and eq and frequency response 
And maybe some can help.

Old post new help


----------



## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

pdiddy403 said:


> Hello all...
> I am currently using a Pioneer P99RS with a set of Focal Utopia No.7 "active" and would like to get some advise on high pass/low pass crossover settings, slope and phase adjustements to help me start things off.
> Mid/tweet are high in the "A" pillar (Using Focal's "Mid Box") and bass drivers are high in the doors.
> Thank you in advance for everyons' help!


I would let the woofers play up to around 1K, mids 1K to 4K, tweets 4K up, slopes -12 to start.

The phase reversal was suggested to correct the phase shift with -12 slopes, it often makes it sound better.

I don't generally have good results trying to cross mids in the 300-800 Hz range, but your results may vary.


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

GEM592 said:


> I would let the woofers play up to around 1K, mids 1K to 4K, tweets 4K up, slopes -12 to start.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ok. The mid and twt should NOT be on axis to you. Driver side and passenger side should be 15-30 degrees off axis to you respectfully. 

Crossover high pass on twt 4k @-12 db Linkwitz Reilly

Midrange band pass. Low pass 3.2 k @-12 db Bessel

High pass -12 db Bessel at 500 hz

Bass driver. Band pass. Low pass 1000 hz. @-12 db Butterworth
Highpass 65 hz &-12 db Butterworth

Invert phase tweeters and bass driver. 

Let me know how this sounds!

Nick

This was the recommendations of the Focal USA guy 

Using a P99 you may struggle with the different types of slopes as the P99 doesn't have more than one choice

What's most important is the reverse Phasing especially on the tweeters...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Your suggestion is like that: 
tweeter : 4k -12db, Linkwitz
Mid : high pass 500 , low pass 3.2k, -12 Bessel
Bass: high pass 65, low pass 1k , -12 Butterworth
Invert phase to Treble and Bass.


I am just a beginner of this and I want to learn more about dsp settings. In this setting, the frequency of 3.2k to 4k is omitted. Does it matter? Also, there is an overlap frequency of 500 to 1k in the Mid and Bass. Does it matter? 

So why sometimes the frequency can be omitted(tweeter and Mid) and sometimes they can be overlap( Mid and Bass)? Is there any rules of setting this? 

What is the function of inverting phase of Treble and Bass driver? I noticed that the frequency dropped between the crossover point of Tweeter and Mid after set inverted phase. 

Thx a lot!!! 




Elektra said:


> Ok. The mid and twt should NOT be on axis to you. Driver side and passenger side should be 15-30 degrees off axis to you respectfully.
> 
> Crossover high pass on twt 4k @-12 db Linkwitz Reilly
> 
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> Your suggestion is like that:
> 
> tweeter : 4k -12db, Linkwitz
> 
> ...




To be honest it's just a guide you try the overlap or you can try it with no overlap see how it sounds 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

For starters I would go with 
Bass 60 Hz hipass @ 24 do/oct and up to 200-315Hz lowpass @ 12 db/oct
MID 400 @12 db/oct to 4kHz @12 db/oct
Tweet 5K or even higher @ 12 db/oct.
If using 12db/oct slopes you can have up to one octave spacing between xo points, but you have to experiment, the same goes to slopes. Shalower slopes have better transient response compared to steeper slopes....I prefer shalower slopes on top end and steeper on bass region. Try to have the same slopes between bass/mis and between mid and TW.
X-over points and slopes are one part of the story, the secind part are levels between drivers and of course phasing between drivers. If you end up with thin sound try to elevate level on pair of bass drivers or lower mid and tweets to get normal tone balance.
other reason for thin sound can be also install, especially install of bass drivers - they should be solid mounted on MDF/metal rings attached to the door frame, all holes in inner metal closed with damping mats or fiberglass, adequate damping of door metal and door-card.

Focal bass drivers are known for good/strong/potent midbass, so drivers by itself are not a problem.


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

LBaudio said:


> For starters I would go with
> 
> Bass 60 Hz hipass @ 24 do/oct and up to 200-315Hz lowpass @ 12 db/oct
> 
> ...




Yeah I had something like that except I used 18db on the midbass... 

Also google what the crossblock frequency positions are and mimic those as Focal spent a lot of time developing that crossblock so I think they know best as to what crossover points suit there speakers

But I would just keep 2.5 octaves above FS on the mid and tweeters and watch out for beaming points on the mid and you should be sorted for a baseline system...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Dear all,

Here is my setting of N7 3 ways speakers. Did I do something wrong in installation? Which crossover setting should be used? I feel the sound is too thin, not sweet, not soft enough.
If the setting is good, someone told me that when I listen in the car, I can hear the sound sourcing just like outside the car. But I can't. Is the position not good? I just installed the speaker for few days only. Speakers run in is less than 10 hours. 

Thx for help!

Amp: Mcintosh MC431
DSP: Audison Bit One HD










http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq280/michaelchoi33/bmw/119147b9-d828-476d-b313-3b4b3681d740_zpsoyfeob2w.jpg[/IMG]


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> Dear all,
> 
> Here is my setting of N7 3 ways speakers. Did I do something wrong in installation? Which crossover setting should be used? I feel the sound is too thin, not sweet, not soft enough.
> If the setting is good, someone told me that when I listen in the car, I can hear the sound sourcing just like outside the car. But I can't. Is the position not good? I just installed the speaker for few days only. Speakers run in is less than 10 hours.
> ...






Those speakers need about 50 hours to sound right and about 100 hours to be fully run in - they should smoothen out after 30 or so hours 

Personally I think your tweeters are too off axis maybe I would not have installed those mids on the A-Pillar like that - too much reflection off the windscreen and dash... somewhere on your top half of the door would have been better imho....

I think if you aim your tweeters more on axis you may get a fuller sound from them...

I think the tweeter roll off will be hurting you a little - try that wave guide Focal supplied with your set to see if your off axis response will improve with those wave guides - they just clip on so it won't hurt to try it out... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

Elektra said:


> Those speakers need about 50 hours to sound right and about 100 hours to be fully run in - they should smoothen out after 30 or so hours
> 
> Personally I think your tweeters are too off axis maybe I would not have installed those mids on the A-Pillar like that - too much reflection off the windscreen and dash... somewhere on your top half of the door would have been better imho....
> 
> ...




Sorry I just noticed you have the waveguides installed...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> Dear all,
> 
> Here is my setting of N7 3 ways speakers. Did I do something wrong in installation? Which crossover setting should be used? I feel the sound is too thin, not sweet, not soft enough.
> If the setting is good, someone told me that when I listen in the car, I can hear the sound sourcing just like outside the car. But I can't. Is the position not good? I just installed the speaker for few days only. Speakers run in is less than 10 hours.
> ...






Are you using the crossblock? What are your settings? 

Did you reverse phase the tweeters? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

May I know what is the meaning of "too off axis"? Do you mean that the tweeter and mid should be place towards drivers and passenger side? (just like 45 degree). I tried to do like that but the shop told me it is not good to view outside for 45 degree to the driver/ passenger. Should I do the A pillar again?


Do you mean like this setting? The speakers are facing to the middle of the passenger and driver. 









If you think it would be better, I may do this again.






Elektra said:


> Those speakers need about 50 hours to sound right and about 100 hours to be fully run in - they should smoothen out after 30 or so hours
> 
> Personally I think your tweeters are too off axis maybe I would not have installed those mids on the A-Pillar like that - too much reflection off the windscreen and dash... somewhere on your top half of the door would have been better imho....
> 
> ...


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

no, it is an active set. I am using the Audison Bit One HD as DSP. 

I have no idea of how to tune it well. So I just did what you guys told here.

Yap, I have reverse phase to "Treble" and " bass" now. Using treble 4k , mid 500-3.5k, bass 60-1k. All using -12db. 






Elektra said:


> Are you using the crossblock? What are your settings?
> 
> Did you reverse phase the tweeters?
> 
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> May I know what is the meaning of "too off axis"? Do you mean that the tweeter and mid should be place towards drivers and passenger side? (just like 45 degree). I tried to do like that but the shop told me it is not good to view outside for 45 degree to the driver/ passenger. Should I do the A pillar again?












I would do it like that... maybe loose mount them and try them out like that - just remember to remove those wave guides when you do...

It's also all about level matching the mid and tweeter to the midbass as well...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Before I modified the A pillar, I search for many design. I can found that some audio system design like mine. So I did it. Is this no good?


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

thx very much! I may redesign like the picture you sent. 

So how about the vertical area? Should it place as low as possible? 





Elektra said:


> View attachment 161914
> 
> 
> I would do it like that... maybe loose mount them and try them out like that - just remember to remove those wave guides when you do...
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> thx very much! I may redesign like the picture you sent.
> 
> 
> 
> So how about the vertical area? Should it place as low as possible?




Not sure what you mean vertical area but I would try to build them close to your sail tweeter area away from your windscreen and dash surfaces if possible 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

In fact, my car is not large enough, so it may have problem if I redesign like the photos like you sent. 






Elektra said:


> Not sure what you mean vertical area but I would try to build them close to your sail tweeter area away from your windscreen and dash surfaces if possible
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> In fact, my car is not large enough, so it may have problem if I redesign like the photos like you sent.




Run them loose to test first if you like it better then a skilled installer will make it happen 

Your current pillars are easy to build so the installer wasn't prepared to work too hard

That type of install can limit your stage width and remove a lot of detail which those speakers are capable of... 

I heard a KRX3 way like that and it sounded so disconnected to me I preferred the speakers to face me which he had before... 

Also he complained the stage was narrow as well.. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

michael33 said:


> Before I modified the A pillar, I search for many design. I can found that some audio system design like mine. So I did it. Is this no good?


That looks great! 
But I bet you have some combfiltering issues up the woozah


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

oabeieo said:


> That looks great!
> 
> But I bet you have some combfiltering issues up the woozah




Yeah too many reflective surfaces - Andy mentioned that a mid and tweeter on the A-Pillar is a no go and a mid in the top part of the door and a tweeter aimed on axis is best 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I mean the vertical level of the speakers. Now they are at my ear level, is it too high?



Elektra said:


> Not sure what you mean vertical area but I would try to build them close to your sail tweeter area away from your windscreen and dash surfaces if possible
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> I mean the vertical level of the speakers. Now they are at my ear level, is it too high?




Tweeter can be angled towards your ear level the mid doesn't really matter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## limster77 (Dec 12, 2017)

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> Here is a good starting line-up for you. Tweeter high pass frequency would be 4k at -12 db reverse phase. Band pass on the mid would be 3.2k at -12 db to 400 hz at -12 db. Low pass for the 6.5 would be 350 hz at -12 db reverse phase. Should sound pretty decent from that point.
> 
> ...


I tried this setting, the sound is very clear, good details and good depth after i tune the freq to flattest possible using RTA. The problem im facing now is the soundstage is not wide its kinda narrow comparing to having tweeter n midtange without reverse phase. Not sure whats the issue here. My tweeter and midrange is mounted on A-pillar pointing to middle of the front row seats so its about 30 degree off axis. Midbass is at the front door lowest point facing on axis to each other. Here’s my components for reference:

1) Focal No.7 Active
2) Alpine PXA-H800 Processor
3) Alpine IVA-520
4) Sinfoni PRESTO for tweeter 50w/ch
5) Mosconi 100.2 for midrange 100w/ch
6) Mosconi 100.4 bridged for midbass 310w/ch
7) Pionner TS-WX120A subwoofer under the glove box comparment
8) Micro Precision Interconnects
9) All in Honda Odyssey RC1 2017

Please kindly provide your expert advice on crossover setting, thanks.


----------



## limster77 (Dec 12, 2017)

Bump


----------



## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

the reverse phase wont work for all cars so I'd say trust your ears and not what someone online says. maybe it worked great for his install but wont be the same for yours.


----------



## limster77 (Dec 12, 2017)

Yes i understand what you meant but i thought the reverse phase is to ensure seamless crossover without too much equalising work. 

Beside that, although it is wider soundstage with similar phase thoughout the drivers, the imaging is of the singer is no longer infront but rather its on the side now.

I also tried using Alpine H800 imprint, it sound very good. Perhaps its due to the FIR filters. But same result for phase to imaging issue.


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

PUSH.....

Now I am planning to redo A pillar and put the tweeter and mid range to the position which Elektra said.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ou7iA8XzLNhScZqM2

How about if I make it like this? 





Elektra said:


> Are you using the crossblock? What are your settings?
> 
> Did you reverse phase the tweeters?
> 
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> PUSH.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Well I am doing my build in a X3 so I’ll know in a week how that turned out but yeah it’s aimed just past my shoulder on both sides of the car - just need to confirm if I like that angle before I cast it in stone - most probably do that next week...

This is a F10 Bmw? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jackk (Dec 27, 2010)

Elektra said:


> Well I am doing my build in a X3 so I’ll know in a week how that turned out but yeah it’s aimed just past my shoulder on both sides of the car - just need to confirm if I like that angle before I cast it in stone - most probably do that next week...
> 
> This is a F10 Bmw?
> 
> ...




Sub’ed eould b nice to learn from u guys!

Sorry off topic, haven’t done anything to the set I bought from u yet Elektra. I’m starting to look for the missing screw now, not as easy as I thought!

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

Which screw was that again? 

Have you bought your amps yet? I’ll post pics of my build when I get the car back..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I don't know what the model is actually(may be F10). My car is 2006 E60 M5. I found it very difficult to place the tweeter and mid range. 

I have 4 ideas:
1) put the tweeter and mid range just like the photo I posted last time. (on axis)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EiQmvXquKtmWYVBy2

2) just place the tweeter in the A pillar and put the mid-range back to the original area(door panel)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/97kJ58XTmAm8w39x2

Which one do you suggest?

3) My friend give me his A-pillar to test if it is good or not
https://photos.app.goo.gl/D6bEOlfvfQgzvn0z1

4) Don't do anything , just use my original one

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oxrdIVYbly9AZ6Ly2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sA16qCFzP8WpECLy2



Michael





Elektra said:


> Well I am doing my build in a X3 so I’ll know in a week how that turned out but yeah it’s aimed just past my shoulder on both sides of the car - just need to confirm if I like that angle before I cast it in stone - most probably do that next week...
> 
> This is a F10 Bmw?
> 
> ...


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

Also, do you think that if I add the Focal Crossblock will improve the sound quality? I am now using the active set with Audison bit One and 2 Mcintosh Amps (MC431, each with 100WX 4). If I buy the Crossblock I will reduce to 1 Mcintosh amp.


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> I don't know what the model is actually(may be F10). My car is 2006 E60 M5. I found it very difficult to place the tweeter and mid range.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




The pic which shows the tweeter angled more to the center between the seats looks the best - the way you have it firing across the dash is not how I would install them as they are completely off axis - aim for around 20deg off axis both sides means you could EQ the final result to be the same and they should sound pretty good in both seats


Love that car .... all time favorite car! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> Also, do you think that if I add the Focal Crossblock will improve the sound quality? I am now using the active set with Audison bit One and 2 Mcintosh Amps (MC431, each with 100WX 4). If I buy the Crossblock I will reduce to 1 Mcintosh amp.




Me personally the crossblock does something to the frequency response that binds the speakers together - I find it much easier to setup the speakers with the block...

Others may differ on this - but the advantage you could have is use one amp instead of 2 or bridge the amps to double up the power through the block - one amp per side would be a nice setup...

I am installing mine at the moment in a X3 and my plans are to use the Audison HV Venti to drive the kit 7 through the Block so 2x400 on tap 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jackk (Dec 27, 2010)

Elektra said:


> Which screw was that again?
> 
> Have you bought your amps yet? I’ll post pics of my build when I get the car back..
> 
> ...




The set screw on the 6w3 terminal. I planned to use the u-dimension to drive the set w/ the crossblock first so no amp purchase had happened yet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

jackk said:


> The set screw on the 6w3 terminal. I planned to use the u-dimension to drive the set w/ the crossblock first so no amp purchase had happened yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Those screws should be easy to get... they machine screws you can change them to the Allen key head - just measure the diameter and just get the replacement... 

I have seen plenty here... surely your side should not be a issue...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DPGstereo (Jan 16, 2013)

With *Crossblock*, bi-amp'd, two _*McIntosh MCC602TM*_'s, _*8to12 Aerospace*_.

Great outcome. "Yes" to using _*Crossblock*_. A lot of effort went into the design, for a reason. Just works.


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

DPGstereo said:


> View attachment 219906
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I agree the crossblock just works... when you see it you realize Focal wasn’t playing around here...

Personally I feel it’s an important part of the set - sure active works but with the block you could use just 2 channels of power therefore you could use one Uber amp like a Audison HV Venti or something like that to drive the whole system instead of coughing up the cost of 6 channels of power....

It’s also for the guys who don’t want lots of amps in there car so theoretically one 4 channel could drive the entire setup which includes a sub... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

If I have already got a DSP before(using active method), and now I am going to add a Focal crossblock in between. Is it not necessary to input the speakers distance data in the DSP anymore? Or it can still work? 

Which method do you suggest?

Michael




DPGstereo said:


> View attachment 219906
> 
> 
> With *Crossblock*, bi-amp'd, two _*McIntosh MCC602TM*_'s, _*8to12 Aerospace*_.
> ...


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

thx, I will try this.





Elektra said:


> The pic which shows the tweeter angled more to the center between the seats looks the best - the way you have it firing across the dash is not how I would install them as they are completely off axis - aim for around 20deg off axis both sides means you could EQ the final result to be the same and they should sound pretty good in both seats
> 
> 
> Love that car .... all time favorite car!
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> If I have already got a DSP before(using active method), and now I am going to add a Focal crossblock in between. Is it not necessary to input the speakers distance data in the DSP anymore? Or it can still work?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Your going to TA sides not individual speakers so more than likely your mids.. if you get your mids and tweeters on the same plane then you would be able to TA your mids and tweeters per side your midbass will be a little off but TA isn’t that important on bass 

I get a center with mine and I use 2 channels of power..















Gonna RTA the car today to see how it looks and do some tuning as I got the car back last night...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I found that the Utopia No7 crossblock need the input of 1)Bass and 2)Tweeter+Mid. Does it mean that I still need a 4 channels amp to drive it?

Michael




Elektra said:


> I agree the crossblock just works... when you see it you realize Focal wasn’t playing around here...
> 
> Personally I feel it’s an important part of the set - sure active works but with the block you could use just 2 channels of power therefore you could use one Uber amp like a Audison HV Venti or something like that to drive the whole system instead of coughing up the cost of 6 channels of power....
> 
> ...


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> I found that the Utopia No7 crossblock need the input of 1)Bass and 2)Tweeter+Mid. Does it mean that I still need a 4 channels amp to drive it?
> 
> 
> 
> Michael




You can use only 2 channels if you like but if you have a 4 channel amp it will be better for tuning as you can do a bit more in terms of power and TA settings 

I am only using 2 channels in my setup 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jackk (Dec 27, 2010)

Elektra said:


> Those screws should be easy to get... they machine screws you can change them to the Allen key head - just measure the diameter and just get the replacement...
> 
> I have seen plenty here... surely your side should not be a issue...
> 
> ...




I thunk they should b easy to find too. Thing is the few stores I know of that would sell smaller set screws had all closed. Just a matter of looking for new shops. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DPGstereo (Jan 16, 2013)

michael33 said:


> If I have already got a DSP before(using active method), and now I am going to add a Focal crossblock in between. Is it not necessary to input the speakers distance data in the DSP anymore? Or it can still work?
> 
> Which method do you suggest?
> 
> Michael


I bi-amp'd the Crossblock so I could have independent t/a between tweet/mid & mid bass. More flexibility with tuning as well. Plus the headroom. Best you can do.


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I am now looking for a no 7 crossblock. Anyone has it for sell?

A new one in ebay cost around 1600 USD that I think it is too high. 

Anyone who got one for sell please contact me [email protected]

Michael






DPGstereo said:


> I bi-amp'd the Crossblock so I could have independent t/a between tweet/mid & mid bass. More flexibility with tuning as well. Plus the headroom. Best you can do.


----------



## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

oh you think that's too high do you? Didn't you know you were in Utopia?


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

just want to get one used. I found there is a used one sold for $700 USD only before.



GEM592 said:


> oh you think that's too high do you? Didn't you know you were in Utopia?


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

I modified my speaker position like this....better than before.... any comment?

https://share.weiyun.com/56mhHnM

https://share.weiyun.com/55EEI3S


----------



## Elektra (Feb 4, 2013)

michael33 said:


> I modified my speaker position like this....better than before.... any comment?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Similar to mine... try without the waveguides... 

How does it sound?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## michael33 (Aug 18, 2016)

This setting is the best that I have ever heard. The sound improved alot!

BTW, may I know what is the uses of setting the polarity of the TBE and BASS to negative? Should I do that or just all positive polarity? I don't get the theory of this. Can you help?

I got this setting advice from a Focal distributor:
High pass 4k (nagative polarity)
Band pass 400- 3.2K
Low pass 350 (negative polarity)






Elektra said:


> Similar to mine... try without the waveguides...
> 
> How does it sound?
> 
> ...


----------



## Aminask (Apr 20, 2020)

Hi guys I have a focal utopia kit n07 passive( with its own crossover) I’m using a Sony gs9 stereo and brax mx4 amp bi amped. Can you please tell me what numbers should the s1,2,3,4 be on? It pisses me off every song is different I can’t get out of the car and try to change it for every song. By the way I’ve a focal e30kx as my sub with helixspxl1000. Please help me


----------

