# Testing voltage at speaker wire



## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Hello, I am trying to find out what the voltage output is from the factory sub speaker wire of a 2019 Honda Accord? I purchased a JL XD/600v2 mono amp to run my sub and figured I'd need an loc. I was going to purchase the JL Loc 22 but the sales person said I won’t need one for my install. He said I could go with RCA to speaker adapter directly from the factory subwoofer wire that gets tapped into directly into the amp. I believe the amp accepts up to 8 volts of input. Does this sound correct? Am I able to use a multimeter to test somehow the voltage output from the sub speaker wire?


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Yeah, you can use a DMM to measure the AC voltage. I'm not sure if the factory system filters out the lows going to your speakers, but if it does, you could easily play a test tone of like 40HZ or so and measure the AC Voltage at the wiring for the sub.

If the factory system doesn't filter out the lows going to your speakers, then playing said test tone could cause damage to them. 

You could always balance/fade the music to one speaker that you can easily unhook so you don't risk damage to the factory speakers by playing the test tone. 

Honestly though, the factory HU isn't likely to pump out more than 2v to the factory sub amp. It'll be nowhere close to 8v at least, not unless it's a clipped to hell signal.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Hey, thanks for such a quick reply. The factory system is the premium 10 speaker that has a factory amp so I figured voltage may be higher. I could fade the sound to just the rear of car but that would mean the factory components in rear deck would also be playing the test tone...not safe? I don’t believe I can balance/fade to only have to stop playing. As far as checking the voltage would I just put the multimeter in AC mode and then basically just touch the wiring positive to positive negative to negative? This is all pretty new for me.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

By the way I’m an idiot, I will just disconnect my rear deck speakers and play the test tone.


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Play it at low volume first, just in case there's a speaker playing it. That way you don't blow anything and can stop. 

Yeah, DMM set to AC voltage and just connect each probe to one wire. Won't matter so much which wire to which probe.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Weigel21 said:


> Play it at low volume first, just in case there's a speaker playing it. That way you don't blow anything and can stop.
> 
> Yeah, DMM set to AC voltage and just connect each probe to one wire. Won't matter so much which wire to which probe.


Thank you so much for your help. I am sure I will have more questions along the way. Again TY


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Millz1273 said:


> By the way I’m an idiot, I will just disconnect my rear deck speakers and play the test tone.


Maybe leave the speakers connected.
You might find that the AC voltage seems low...


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I spoke with a rep at Crutchfield today while purchasing a few things. He told me not to tap into the factory sub signal. He said you don’t want to tap into an already crossed over signal. I was told best to grab signal from door speakers. Apparently I do not need an loc with this amp either. Some day grab signal from subwoofer, others say from door speakers…It’s confusing but I guess I’ll just try the door speakers and see what happens.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Millz1273 said:


> I spoke with a rep at Crutchfield today while purchasing a few things. He told me not to tap into the factory sub signal. He said you don’t want to tap into an already crossed over signal...
> ...


Did he say why?


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Understandable to want a full-range signal going into the amp and avoid double filtering, but we don't know if the HU provides a full-range signal and the amp utilizes a LPF or if the HU LPFs the signal before going to the amp. 

However, I can't imagine the rear speakers are getting ba full-range signal with the Factory Sub amp is getting a LPF'd signal. 

You can easily test it though. Connect the DMM to the signal wiring to the sub p and measure while playing a lower frequency byrst tone like 40-60Hz, then play a test tone of s frequency that shouldn't be getting played by the sub, yet is still within the frequency range of your multimeter. Something like 400HZ should have a lower voltage than 60Hz if the signal is being LPF'd.

Opposite can be said of the rear speakers, 60Hz shouldn't be as strong as 400Hz if the signal is being HPF'd.

Easy to test.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

The rep said the door speakers are not crossed over so I suppose they are full range. I believe I’ve read that crossovers are at amp. I will try testing them like weigel21 said....try anyway lol. I ran my power wire today so maybe tomorrow I’ll test voltage coming from speaker wire. What voltages am I to look for?


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Well if crossovers are at/in the amp, then that means the sub amp receives a full-range source signal as well, which is what you were going to tap into, I thought. I mean I sure hope you hadn't planned to use the amplified signal after the sub amp, that would surely exceed the input voltage for your amp when cranking up your tunes, not to mention, probably end up with getting a distorted/clipped signal coming into your aftermarket amp.

As for voltages, I can only guess. The voltage of the signal going into the factory sub amp is likely no more than 2v, might only be .5v, couldn't say for sure. As for the voltage going to the rear speakers, IDK, but I can't imagine they are getting more than 20w tops, which as far as voltage goes, it depends on what impedance the factory speakers are. If they are 4 ohm speakers, then you're looking at 8v maybe.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I know with my factory system you have to get signal after amp. The amp is able to take up to 8V of input. Here is a link to a video of the why signal must be tapped into after amp.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Weigel21 said:


> ...
> 
> As for voltages, I can only guess. The voltage of the signal going into the factory sub amp is likely no more than 2v, might only be .5v, couldn't say for sure. As for the voltage going to the rear speakers, IDK, but I can't imagine they are getting more than 20w tops, which as far as voltage goes, it depends on what impedance the factory speakers are. If they are 4 ohm speakers, then you're looking at 8v maybe.


Let's use volts... even if it was high, then there are these...




__





12dB attenuator (pair) - HARRISON LABS


HARRISON LAB 12dB attenuator (pair)




www.decibelhifi.com.au


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Weigel21 said:


> Well if crossovers are at/in the amp, then that means the sub amp receives a full-range source signal as well, which is what you were going to tap into, I thought. I mean I sure hope you hadn't planned to use the amplified signal after the sub amp, that would surely exceed the input voltage for your amp when cranking up your tunes, not to mention, probably end up with getting a distorted/clipped signal coming into your aftermarket amp.
> 
> As for voltages, I can only guess. The voltage of the signal going into the factory sub amp is likely no more than 2v, might only be .5v, couldn't say for sure. As for the voltage going to the rear speakers, IDK, but I can't imagine they are getting more than 20w tops, which as far as voltage goes, it depends on what impedance the factory speakers are. If they are 4 ohm speakers, then you're looking at 8v maybe.


I have no idea at this point then lol. Some say get signal from door speakers, others say use sub signal...😡


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

It's all good, you'll get it all figured out soon, if not already.


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## F150Man (Apr 14, 2017)

Millz1273 said:


> I have no idea at this point then lol. Some say get signal from door speakers, others say use sub signal...😡


The front doors are full range. You only need those 2 pairs of speaker wires.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

F150Man said:


> The front doors are full range. You only need those 2 pairs of speaker wires.


If it is for a sub, then realistically a single pair of either the left, or the right, might be enough?

Two pairs may not give anything extra, over one pair?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I've seen multiple setups where the person used 1 set of rca to speaker adaptors and tapped into the rear sub speaker wire. The adaptors are 2 channel, so what they did was take the 2 positive wires of the rca adaptor and connected them to the 1 positive of the speaker wire. Then did the same with the negatives. So it was only 1 pair of rca's into the amp. I think for simplicity sake I will try it this way first and see how it sounds.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Hello, I am trying to find out what the voltage output is from the factory sub speaker wire of a 2019 Honda Accord? I purchased a JL XD/600v2 mono amp to run my sub and figured I'd need an loc. I was going to purchase the JL Loc 22 but the sales person said I won’t need one for my install. He said I could go with RCA to speaker adapter directly from the factory subwoofer wire that gets tapped into directly into the amp. I believe the amp accepts up to 8 volts of input. Does this sound correct? Am I able to use a multimeter to test somehow the voltage output from the sub speaker wire?


It feels like you are making this harder than it needs to be. You paid good money for that amp, let it do some of the work for you and make your life easier.

1) Wire in some speaker to RCA adapters on the factory sub speaker wires (_or door or deck or whatever; choose one and get it done now for install purposes. This can be altered later_).

2) plug the RCA adapters into the new amp, and follow the procedure for setting input level as outlined in the manual. (_You already know it will be a high level signal, so set input switch to High and go from there in the steps._)

3) verify everything works as expected. 

The setup has to work first before you can make it “better”, so just make sure your hardware will work in the configuration available. If it will not work, no need wasting time on decisions that won’t matter to a non-working setup. Get the setup working and then adjust to make it sound as good as possible.

That’s how I would attack this install, YMMV obviously...


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> It feels like you are making this harder than it needs to be. You paid good money for that amp, let it do some of the work for you and make your life easier.
> 
> 1) Wire in some speaker to RCA adapters on the factory sub speaker wires (_or door or deck or whatever; choose one and get it done now for install purposes. This can be altered later_).
> 
> ...


Yup, that’s exactly what I am doing. Ran power wire, bass attenuator and made amp bracket already. I used nutserts in 3 of the factory holes. Once the trunk liner is reinstalled I will screw the bracket on over it. This weekend I will get the amp mounted and up and running.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

So I got amp installed today. I was following JL’s tuning process to get the output voltage correct for my subwoofer and ran into an issue. The amp powered up fine but when I raised the volume to 3/4 to try to dial in the correct voltage output for my sub it would shut down. So I removed the rca’s From the amp an tested the voltage...14.3. The amp only accepts up to 8V input so I guess I need an loc. Noob me tested the voltage before I installed amp but forgot to turn volume up to 3/4. My voltage was 7.5ish so I thought I was ok...obviously not lol. I already have sub speaker wire to rca made, is there an loc that will accept the rca’s as inputs or do I have to remove rca’s and use the speaker wire directly into loc?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> So I got amp installed today. I was following JL’s tuning process to get the output voltage correct for my subwoofer and ran into an issue. The amp powered up fine but when I raised the volume to 3/4 to try to dial in the correct voltage output for my sub it would shut down. So I removed the rca’s From the amp an tested the voltage...14.3. The amp only accepts up to 8V input so I guess I need an loc. Noob me tested the voltage before I installed amp but forgot to turn volume up to 3/4. My voltage was 7.5ish so I thought I was ok...obviously not lol. I already have sub speaker wire to rca made, is there an loc that will accept the rca’s as inputs or do I have to remove rca’s and use the speaker wire directly into loc?


And you have the high/low input voltage switch on the amp set to high, correct?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> And you have the high/low input voltage switch on the amp set to high, correct?


Yup, set to high. I suppose the factory amplifier causes the increase voltage output?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Yup, set to high. I suppose the factory amplifier causes the increase voltage output?


Yes, that’s coming from the factory amp I would think. I guess a LOC would work, but it just seems like the amp would be able to handle this scenario and react in some other way than to shut down...

What’s the amp again?

Power and ground wires for it are sufficiently large enough, right?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

JL 600/1v2. Power and ground are both 4 gauge. It’s fine powering up (solid green light) but once I put volume up and the voltage spikes it just shuts off completely (no power light on amp at all). Would high voltage from high level inputs do that?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> JL 600/1v2. Power and ground are both 4 gauge. It’s fine powering up (solid green light) but once I put volume up and the voltage spikes it just shuts off completely (no power light on amp at all). Would high voltage from high level inputs do that?


I can’t say for sure that it wouldn’t, but it seems odd for it to. The few times I’ve a JL Audio amp freak out on me, it would use the little lights to indicate something was amiss, and in fact, I’ve never seen one completely lose power and/or shut down like that.

Can you recreate it every time by turning the volume up on the source unit?

What about testing with a different source of some kind. Can you cause it to shut down the same way with a different source device’s excessive volume/voltage coming in?

Also, what kind of adapters are you using? 

I had some speaker wire-to-RCA adapters I created myself out of some old RCA cables that always gave me issues with sound quality on my JD/400. I replaced them with some JL Audio adapters for that and things have been fine ever since.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Does your amp’s gain adjustment knobs have the LED surrounding them so that gain setting only involves turning the dial until it lights up all around it?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> I can’t say for sure that it wouldn’t, but it seems odd for it to. The few times I’ve a JL Audio amp freak out on me, it would use the little lights to indicate something was amiss, and in fact, I’ve never seen one completely lose power and/or shut down like that.
> 
> Can you recreate it every time by turning the volume up on the source unit?
> 
> ...


I will try again tomorrow by playing regular music instead of the 50hz test tone to see if I have the same issue. I’m using JL high level to rca adaptor.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> Does your amp’s gain adjustment knobs have the LED surrounding them so that gain setting only involves turning the dial until it lights up all around it?


No amp gain light. Just power light that lets you know if any issues occur by blinking or color change.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

“ LED off / Amplifier Shuts Off Unexpectedly
The only condition that will shut down an
undamaged XD600/1v2 completely is if battery
voltage or remote turn-on voltage drops below
10 volts. The
“Status LED”
will turn off when
this occurs. The amplifier will turn back on
when voltage climbs back above 11 volts. If
this is happening in your system, have your
_charging system and power wiring inspected_“

I copied that from the manual. Sounds like your issue.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

I don’t know your specific vehicle setup, but if this is a low-voltage issue, it may not be due to your amp wiring. Check the size of the main ground cable from the battery negative post to the chassis. It is only #6 on my Charger, and that’s too small for my setup. I ended up adding another #6 cable (riding lawnmower battery cable from Walmart) from my negative connection on the battery post to the chassis ground stud to augment the factory wire. That cleared up some undesirable electrical issues I was having with my stereo stuff, and took less than 10 minutes to do.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> I don’t know your specific vehicle setup, but if this is a low-voltage issue, it may not be due to your amp wiring. Check the size of the main ground cable from the battery negative post to the chassis. It is only #6 on my Charger, and that’s too small for my setup. I ended up adding another #6 cable (riding lawnmower battery cable from Walmart) from my negative connection on the battery post to the chassis ground stud to augment the factory wire. That cleared up some undesirable electrical issues I was having with my stereo stuff, and took less than 10 minutes to do.





ElNuke said:


> “ LED off / Amplifier Shuts Off Unexpectedly
> The only condition that will shut down an
> undamaged XD600/1v2 completely is if battery
> voltage or remote turn-on voltage drops below
> ...


I read that in the manual too but wasn't quite sure what it meant. Sounded to me it meant my battery was low or something but I knew that wasn't it.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> I read that in the manual too but wasn't quite sure what it meant. Sounded to me it meant my battery was low or something but I knew that wasn't it.


Do you have a digital multimeter you can use to do some voltage drop tests on major connection points to try to isolate where the voltage is going (or even just verify it is dropping below 11v), or you could use it to monitor the system voltage when the shutdown happens to see at what point in time it sags too low...


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> Do you have a digital multimeter you can use to do some voltage drop tests on major connection points to try to isolate where the voltage is going (or even just verify it is dropping below 11v), or you could use it to monitor the system voltage when the shutdown happens to see at what point in time it sags too low...


First, I just want to thank you for trying to help me with this issue. I played around with it this morning,using a ddm with car off it was 13+ volts at battery. It was also that some voltage at the amp when I checked power and ground wire. I don’t think it has anything to do with the high voltage to the amp from speaker wire either because when the volume is down at 15 that puts about 7.2 V coming from my speaker wires when testing them. The amp still shuts off at that voltage. I am also getting no voltage coming from the amp when I connect to the speaker wire terminals, it barely moves on my ddm if I increase the gain. I was going to recheck my ground connection to the chassis from the amp by standing a little more but I don’t think that’s it at all because it’s definitely bare metal.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Do you think it could be that my lock washer for the ground is zinc? Just noticed that.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

The lock washer shouldn't be an issue. Check with a volt meter to ensure your ground is making good contact, and measure your voltages when the shut down happens. Just to be safe measure the remote turn on voltage as well or are you using some type of signal sense for a turn on signal?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> The lock washer shouldn't be an issue. Check with a volt meter to ensure your ground is making good contact, and measure your voltages when the shut down happens. Just to be safe measure the remote turn on voltage as well or are you using some type of signal sense for a turn on signal?


Using high level input so it’s turning on via signal sense. My ddm leads can’t reach the battery to check my ground. Is there another way? How do I go about measuring at shut down?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Using high level input so it’s turning on via signal sense. My ddm leads can’t reach the battery to check my ground. Is there another way? How do I go about measuring at shut down?


I was thinking screwing the leads’ tips into the amp’s power and ground slots along with the power and ground wires.

That is where the low voltage condition is being detected and acted upon ostensibly, so why not test right there I say.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> I was thinking screwing the leads’ tips into the amp’s power and ground slots along with the power and ground wires.
> 
> That is where the low voltage condition is being detected and acted upon ostensibly, so why not test right there I say.


I know when I touch the ddm leads to the screw that holds power and ground wire down on amp I get the same voltage read at the car batter. I think it was 13+ with car off.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Oh I think I know what you mean now. Test voltage while increasing source volume.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> I know when I touch the ddm leads to the screw that holds power and ground wire down on amp I get the same voltage read at the car batter. I think it was 13+ with car off.


You would want to see what the voltage is at the amp when it shuts down. 
You can check ground by measuring resistance between your amp ground and another bare metal point or ground on the chassis. Resistance between the two points should minimal (touch your probes together first to find the amount you may need to subtract to eliminate probe resistance from the value)


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> You would want to see what the voltage is at the amp when it shuts down.
> You can check ground by measuring resistance between your amp ground and another bare metal point or ground on the chassis. Resistance between the two points should minimal (touch your probes together first to find the amount you may need to subtract to eliminate probe resistance from the value)


I will try now. Am I still setting the voltmeter to AC?


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

No DC for power measurements. AC only for speaker level or input signal.

For resistance ohms of course


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## soundsliketinfoil (Jan 30, 2020)

Millz1273 said:


> Using high level input so it’s turning on via signal sense.


I would try a jumper wire between the 12v and Remote terminal. It could be the "signal sense" feature giving you grief. Bypassing that is a quick test.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> No DC for power measurements. AC only for speaker level or input signal.
> 
> For resistance ohms of course


Ok, DC ddm shows 15.5 weather amp was on and after it shut down. I also touched positive ddm lead to power wire at amp and negative ddm lead to my ground connection at chassis and got the same 15.5 voltage reading.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

soundsliketinfoil said:


> I would try a jumper wire between the 12v and Remote terminal. It could be the "signal sense" feature giving you grief. Bypassing that is a quick test.


 Buy jumper do you mean just a simple piece of speaker wire from 12v to remote connection on amp?


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> Buy jumper do you mean just a simple piece of speaker wire from 12v to remote connection on amp?


Yes just to remove the signal sense system as a possible issue.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Ok, DC ddm shows 15.5 weather amp was on and after it shut down. I also touched positive ddm lead to power wire at amp and negative ddm lead to my ground connection at chassis and got the same 15.5 voltage reading.


Is this with the engine running or just with ignition in ACC?

it shouldn’t be 15.5v in either scenario, but I just want to make sure understand what’s happening on your side


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> Is this with the engine running or just with ignition in ACC?
> 
> it shouldn’t be 15.5v in either scenario, but I just want to make sure understand what’s happening on your side


 That was with the car running, with the car completely off it’s 13.5 at battery and 13.5 at amp power and ground wire. It’s also 13.5 with positive ddm lead to amp power wire and negative to my amp ground that’s connected to chassis. I used the jumper to bypass the signal sensing and the amp did not shut down. I tried then setting voltage coming from speaker terminals on amp but I’m still able to increase the gain all the way up but hardly any change on ddm AC setting. It read 2.0. I have the amp set to the high input setting. Even when I switch it to low input setting the same thing happens.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Yes just to remove the signal sense system as a possible issue.


When I did what you said the amp does now stay on but read the last post for my issue .


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

The A/C voltage on the speaker terminals should be changing with the gain adjustment, yes, but just for kicks and grins, I think I would hook up the sub and play some music while adjusting the gain. I would want to check and See if the sound i hear from the sub is behaving as i would expect it to while adjusting gain, or if it follows what the A/C voltage showed (no increase in level beyond a very low signal).


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## soundsliketinfoil (Jan 30, 2020)

Millz1273 said:


> That was with the car running, with the car completely off it’s 13.5 at battery and 13.5 at amp power and ground wire. It’s also 13.5 with positive ddm lead to amp power wire and negative to my amp ground that’s connected to chassis. I used the jumper to bypass the signal sensing and the amp did not shut down. I tried then setting voltage coming from speaker terminals on amp but I’m still able to increase the gain all the way up but hardly any change on ddm AC setting. It read 2.0. I have the amp set to the high input setting. Even when I switch it to low input setting the same thing happens.


Ok - now you know you have to run a wire for the Remote turn on. Leaving that jumper in will drain your battery.

I'd run a wire to the fuse panel and use an "add-a-fuse" or fuse tap, and tap a circuit that switches off when key is off - cigarette lighter fuse works well, if it switches off with key off.

Turn your gain down, hook your sub up, and slowly increase it. Let's see if you get some output.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Well I tried that...nothing. I then took the high-level adaptor apart and realized something. The rca adaptors each have a positive and negative wire...4 wires total. I had a pos and neg on the rca side going to the pos and neg speaker wires. No sure if I'm explaining well. Basically my pos speaker wire had a neg and a pos connected to it from 1 rca and my neg speaker wire had the same. My guess is that's the issue. Iff hook all back up and find out I guess lol.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Yeah that definitely wouldn't work right.


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## soundsliketinfoil (Jan 30, 2020)

Millz1273 said:


> Well I tried that...nothing. I then took the high-level adaptor apart and realized something. The rca adaptors each have a positive and negative wire...4 wires total. I had a pos and neg on the rca side going to the pos and neg speaker wires. No sure if I'm explaining well. Basically my pos speaker wire had a neg and a pos connected to it from 1 rca and my neg speaker wire had the same. My guess is that's the issue. Iff hook all back up and find out I guess lol.


If you have a multimeter, you should be able to flip it to ohms and read across the adapter. The tip of the RCA is positive. Measure RCA Tip to positive speaker wire should read close to 0 ohms. take 30 seconds and verify them all.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Yup, that was it. I have plenty of voltage now. Gain is all the way down and it's still a tad above recommended voltage for sub. I guess the high level input is strong from factor sub wire. I'll make sure not to push the sub hard when volume is high. I can use mu bass attenuator dial to scale back.


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## soundsliketinfoil (Jan 30, 2020)

Millz1273 said:


> Yup, that was it. I have plenty of voltage now. Gain is all the way down and it's still a tad above recommended voltage for sub. I guess the high level input is strong from factor sub wire. I'll make sure not to push the sub hard when volume is high. I can use mu bass attenuator dial to scale back.


Glad you're up and running!
Does fixing the wiring fix your "auto turn on" problem too?
When you get a chance, can you measure the voltage of the factory sub output (your input)? I know guys were guessing it would be low, but I would have guessed it to be 10v or higher - I'm just curious.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

soundsliketinfoil said:


> Glad you're up and running!
> Does fixing the wiring fix your "auto turn on" problem too?
> When you get a chance, can you measure the voltage of the factory sub output (your input)? I know guys were guessing it would be low, but I would have guessed it to be 10v or higher - I'm just curious.


 I was so turned around measuring stuff lol but it was 14.3 volts coming from the factory sub output. I have no issue now with the auto sense turn on at all. My car is now back together and the bass out put is strong. No roll off at all either with this Accord.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I really want to thank everyone for helping me out with this issue. I now have bass!!!


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## soundsliketinfoil (Jan 30, 2020)

Millz1273 said:


> was 14.3 volts coming from the factory sub output.


Thanks - looks like about 100w considering it's a 2 ohm factory sub. I was just curious what they were running for factory wattage.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> I really want to thank everyone for helping me out with this issue. I now have bass!!!


Glad to hear you got the underlying problem diagnosed and resolved. Finally, a success story!! 😁

Those seem to be so rare these days, I have to celebrate each one now lest it be a while before we have another.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Is there a good spot to set the crossover? Right now its at 80hz.


ElNuke said:


> Glad to hear you got the underlying problem diagnosed and resolved. Finally, a success story!! 😁
> 
> Those seem to be so rare these days, I have to celebrate each one now lest it be a while before we have another.


Lol, yes, we'll all put one in win column!!!


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Is there a good spot to set the crossover? Right now its at 80hz.
> 
> Lol, yes, we'll all put one in win column!!!


80 is a good starting point, but I have found that after I play with the system a bit and tune that low pass setting by ear, my final setting for it (and for the corresponding high pass setting for midbase) always ends up being lower.

Assuming the midbase speakers sound good at what ever frequency this low pass setting is set to, I bet you’ll find this setting (and the midbase HPF) ends up being closer to 60hz or so.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> 80 is a good starting point, but I have found that after I play with the system a bit and tune that low pass setting by ear, my final setting for it (and for the corresponding high pass setting for midbase) always ends up being lower.
> 
> Assuming the midbase speakers sound good at what ever frequency this low pass setting is set to, I bet you’ll find this setting (and the midbase HPF) ends up being closer to 60hz or so.


Thank you, right now I have the sub set to 80hz. I’ll listen and tweak as I drive each day.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Thank you, right now I have the sub set to 80hz. I’ll listen and tweak as I drive each day.


As a general rule, and assuming all other factors are good to go (midbase speakers can go down to LPF setting, sub is good quality and in a good enclosure, etc), I think you’ll find the sub’s bass notes will firm up, or get less muddy, as you lower that LPF setting toward 55-60hz.

Don’t forget to lower the midbase‘s HPF setting (either are the amp or in the head-unit, depending on where it’s set), the same amount as you lower this LPF setting. 

Whatever the final LPF is set to, it should be a meeting point for the sub and midbase speakers via the LPF/HPF settings. 

That will _always_ get the best sound from a system when configured that way...


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> As a general rule, and assuming all other factors are good to go (midbase speakers can go down to LPF setting, sub is good quality and in a good enclosure, etc), I think you’ll find the sub’s bass notes will firm up, or get less muddy, as you lower that LPF setting toward 55-60hz.
> 
> Don’t forget to lower the midbase‘s HPF setting (either are the amp or in the head-unit, depending on where it’s set), the same amount as you lower this LPF setting.
> 
> ...


I only have a sub amp right now. My Accord has a factory 10 speaker system w/ factory amp. The amp isn’t great but good enough for now. I did replace the front components with a cheap pair of JL C1’s (requires very little power) just to clean the sound up which is actually did. I also replaced the center channel speaker as well. I have all settings in factory eq to flat other than the tweeters. The sub is a JLHO110w6 prefab factory box which sounds pretty darn solid. The JL C1’s are a far cry from my last Accord’s Hertz amplified Morel Virtus’s but they aren’t too bad at all paired to the factory amp.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Whatever frequency the sub blends in the best is the right one. Don't force your component woofers to play lower than they're happy with


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I never increase the midbass setting past flat.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Iirc my sub is lp at 70hz 12db and my mids hp @ 80 18db. Works well for me


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Iirc my sub is lp at 70hz 12db and my mids hp @ 80 18db. Works well for me


Right now I’m at LP 80 Hz, 12db slope


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> As a general rule, and assuming all other factors are good to go (midbase speakers can go down to LPF setting, sub is good quality and in a good enclosure, etc), I think you’ll find the sub’s bass notes will firm up, or get less muddy, as you lower that LPF setting toward 55-60hz.
> 
> Don’t forget to lower the midbase‘s HPF setting (either are the amp or in the head-unit, depending on where it’s set), the same amount as you lower this LPF setting.
> 
> ...


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I have a few questions. I read that my component mids can go down to 59 Hz, will they actually play that low and do I want them too? In theory, would I then set the sub crossover at 65-70hz range to blend them. As far as the radio speaker settings go, when I increase or decrease them is that increasing and decreasing the decibel output from the speaker?


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

You're talking about a mid +/- value? That would likely just be an eq somewhere in the midrange. Not familiar with your factory radio. 
Lots of 6.5 inch speakers can play decently low in a proper enclosure, but car doors suck and aren't proper enclosurers. 
Don't try to make a speaker play so low when you have a shiny new subwoofer that can do it easily, cleaner, and louder.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> You're talking about a mid +/- value? That would likely just be an eq somewhere in the midrange. Not familiar with your factory radio.
> Lots of 6.5 inch speakers can play decently low in a proper enclosure, but car doors suck and aren't proper enclosurers.
> Don't try to make a speaker play so low when you have a shiny new subwoofer that can do it easily, cleaner, and louder.


Just says this in speaker specs:

System Frequency Response59 Hz - 22 KHz ± 3 dB


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

My adjustments in radio have a midrange, bass and sub that I can increase and decrease.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Mid and bass adjustments eq most likely while sub is probably a subwoofer level control. The sub control will be nice for when you need it. 
A frequency response measurement at a typical 1 watt is nice to see how even the speakers can play. In car the low end needs lots of help and factory door speakers just won't be up to the task.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

I have another question, if I wanted to add another amp that had a 50 amp rating to run components up front would my current 4 gauge power and ground wires be sufficient? The sub amp is rated at 50 amps as well.Both amps are also rated at 600 watts a piece.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> I have another question, if I wanted to add another amp that had a 50 amp rating to run components up front would my current 4 gauge power and ground wires be sufficient? The sub amp is rated at 50 amps as well.Both amps are also rated at 600 watts a piece.


I'm running a similar setup amplifier wise. 2 channel RF bridged for sub and 4 channel JL for front components. I have a 6-7ft long run of 4awg to an underseat distribution block. Have one amp under each of the front seats. 8awg to each amp but it's about 1.5ft to the 4 channel and only 6 inches to the 2 channel. 4awg i feel should be fine unless you were planning on bringing that 4 channel and wringing out every watt possible.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> I'm running a similar setup amplifier wise. 2 channel RF bridged for sub and 4 channel JL for front components. I have a 6-7ft long run of 4awg to an underseat distribution block. Have one amp under each of the front seats. 8awg to each amp but it's about 1.5ft to the 4 channel and only 6 inches to the 2 channel. 4awg i feel should be fine unless you were planning on bringing that 4 channel and wringing out every watt possible.


It would actually be a JL XD 600/6, [email protected] ohm. My plan would be to bridge giving my mids 200x2 and other 2 channels giving 75 watts each to the tweeters.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

That's closer to max amperage you'd want on a 4awg to the trunk. You could ride with it or add another 4awg or 8awg to be extra safe.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> That's closer to max amperage you'd want on a 4awg to the trunk. You could ride with it or add another 4awg or 8awg to be extra safe.


Ehh, I figured so. Really don’t feel like running another power wire. Oh well, live and learn. Maybe down the line when I feel like pulling the car apart again I’ll run 1/0 gauge wire.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

You're going to run a distribution block anyway right? I'd play it by ear and run with it. Max continuos draw would be around 85-90A. You're unlikely to see that type of draw with regular music. The tweeter channels will barely be drawing any current.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> You're going to run a distribution block anyway right? I'd play it by ear and run with it. Max continuos draw would be around 85-90A. You're unlikely to see that type of draw with regular music. The tweeter channels will barely be drawing any current.


Yes, my 4g to a distribution block, then a 4g to each amp.


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Millz1273 said:


> Yes, my 4g to a distribution block, then a 4g to each amp.


That could be a tricky fuse setup. The inline fuse for the main 4g wire will have to be the max amps that 4g wire can safely handle. I don’t remember what that is, but let’s call it X for now.

The inline fuse for each 4g wire out of the block could be X as well, but then that would mean the main 4g wire could be subjected to (up to) X*2 amps without either of the distro 4g wires’ fuses blowing. 

It wouldn’t make it that far before blowing its own fuse obviously, but my point is you’ll need to fuse carefully and correctly in the amp power wires so as to not make it possible for the main 4g wire to see too much amperage.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

ElNuke said:


> That could be a tricky fuse setup. The inline fuse for the main 4g wire will have to be the max amps that 4g wire can safely handle. I don’t remember what that is, but let’s call it X for now.
> 
> The inline fuse for each 4g wire out of the block could be X as well, but then that would mean the main 4g wire could be subjected to (up to) X*2 amps without either of the distro 4g wires’ fuses blowing.
> 
> It wouldn’t make it that far before blowing its own fuse obviously, but my point is you’ll need to fuse carefully and correctly in the amp power wires so as to not make it possible for the main 4g wire to see too much amperage.


At the battery you fuse the wire. At the distribution block you fuse for the amp not the wire.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Too complicated for me lol. I’ll just leave alone. I’d need dsp too so I think it may be too overwhelming for me.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

How about a 300-400 watt amp that requires a 40 amp fuse (Looking into Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP or JL 4004i). No bridging of channels would be done and I'd be using a dual fuse JL distribution block (XD-FDBU-2). Can my 4 gauge power and ground handle that safely. The fuse at my battery is 100 amp. As you can see I am really not thrilled with the Honda factory amp. Pretty crappy if you ask me.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Not sure how accurate but when I use JL's site to calculate real world amperage draw with the amps I'm looking at and currently have I come up with 80 amp draw. Their chart shows 4 gauge is safe for a 80-100amp draw at 16-20ft of power wire.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Shadow_419 said:


> You're going to run a distribution block anyway right? I'd play it by ear and run with it. Max continuos draw would be around 85-90A. You're unlikely to see that type of draw with regular music. The tweeter channels will barely be drawing any current.


Quoting myself because like I said real world draw is going to be under safe amperage.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Quoting myself because like I said real world draw is going to be under safe amperage.


Yup, your post made me go looking for a ballpark "real world" power draw.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Good evening,
Unfortunately I’ve encountered a weird issue after a couple weeks of my sub sounding beautiful. I can crank the system as loud as I want when car is parked (running) and my continuous battery volt checker (supposedly real time that plugs into a 12v outlet) reads 13-14+ volts. When I put the car into “drive” and voltage drops to 12.5 zone the bass will start to intermittently drop out. This goes on when I drive too, voltage stays at 12.4 or 12.5. I had my wife get into the car and put it into “drive” while I checked the amp to see what it was doing. It is basically doing what it does when it first powers up, there’s a blinking green light. Normally I get a blinking green then a solid green on power up. The bass will hit normally for a short period of time at first (15 sec or so) then the light starts blinking causing muting of the sub, then it will come back on for a moment then off, etc. The light never goes out, just starts blinking. Any ideas what may be the issue?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

Your JL Audio amp has the regulated power supply, correct?

IIRC those will not play nice with a vehicle’s electrical system if they aren’t fed the full compliment of juice they are looking for at any given moment.

As opposed to an unregulated one that would just take what’s safely available from the electrical system and under volt the output going to the speaker(s).


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> Your JL Audio amp has the regulated power supply, correct?
> 
> IIRC those will not play nice with a vehicle’s electrical system if they aren’t fed the full compliment of juice they are looking for at any given moment.
> 
> As opposed to an unregulated one that would just take what’s safely available from the electrical system and under volt the output going to the speaker(s).


Not sure what you mean by regulated power supply?


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## ElNuke (Jan 6, 2019)

The details are even a little technical for me to truly understand, but I know I read about the difference in the regulated vs unregulated power supplies inside amps, and I remember thinking the regulated ones sounded like they could be trouble if the rest of the car’s wiring and hardware was just barely cutting the cake. I didn’t read too much more about them since they were supposedly only found in higher end/more expensive amps, and I normally don’t have to worry about having top tier modes of any audio brand equipment.

And then I ended up getting one recently, so I should have gone back and educated myself better on their positive and negative attributes versus the rest of the amps normally found in a system.

I will see if I can find that write-up I originally read through comparing and contrasting the two types of power supplies in a modern amp, and I’ll paste up the link here if I can find it.

(unless some other member already has some bookmarks covering this subject and wants to beat me to the punch with some informative links of their own.)


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

ElNuke said:


> The details are even a little technical for me to truly understand, but I know I read about the difference in the regulated vs unregulated power supplies inside amps, and I remember thinking the regulated ones sounded like they could be trouble if the rest of the car’s wiring and hardware was just barely cutting the cake. I didn’t read too much more about them since they were supposedly only found in higher end/more expensive amps, and I normally don’t have to worry about having top tier modes of any audio brand equipment.
> 
> And then I ended up getting one recently, so I should have gone back and educated myself better on their positive and negative attributes versus the rest of the amps normally found in a system.
> 
> ...


 As always, thanks for trying to help a rookie out. There is something in the manual that refers to possibly needing to upgrade the batteries factory ground wire if that’s what you mean? I don’t know how that would apply in my situation being there was no problem at all for the first couple weeks.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Regulated supplies just mean you'll get the same amount of watts regardless if you have 12v or 14. 4v at the amp input. Unregulated you'll get more at 14 vs 12. Double check your turn on voltage and ensure its steady. If you're car's voltage is actually dropping that much while in gear, i would look at the charging system with extra care.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

ElNuke said:


> The details are even a little technical for me to truly understand, but I know I read about the difference in the regulated vs unregulated power supplies inside amps, and I remember thinking *the regulated ones sounded like they could be trouble if the rest of the car’s wiring and hardware was just barely cutting the cake*...
> ...


Exactly backwards.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Regulated supplies just mean you'll get the same amount of watts regardless if you have 12v or 14. 4v at the amp input. Unregulated you'll get more at 14 vs 12. Double check your turn on voltage and ensure its steady. If you're car's voltage is actually dropping that much while in gear, i would look at the charging system with extra care.


My battery voltage reader never drops below 12.4 while driving or in gear. The amp's manual states the amp can run fine down to 10V so I have no idea what variable changed after 2 weeks to cause this problem. Frustrating to say the least.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

At 12 volts your amp has power to stay on but regardless if it isn't above 13v while the car is running your battery may not charge properly. Use a multi meter and check into that.

I mentioned the the remote turn on because if that voltage is dropping too low that could put the amp into that half way on/off loop.
I know it's repeated countless times daily but ensure all your connections are secure especially power and ground wires. Loose ground gave me a protection light issue on an amp before. It's definitely frustrating.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> At 12 volts your amp has power to stay on but regardless if it isn't above 13v while the car is running your battery may not charge properly. Use a multi meter and check into that.
> 
> I mentioned the the remote turn on because if that voltage is dropping too low that could put the amp into that half way on/off loop.
> I know it's repeated countless times daily but ensure all your connections are secure especially power and ground wires. Loose ground gave me a protection light issue on an amp before. It's definitely frustrating.


Will do, I will check all out this weekend. It's strange, the amp never shuts off as far as the power light is concerned. It simply starts to blink as if it was just turned on and powering up which in turn mutes the bass output. My amp turn on is via signal sense from high level input.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> Will do, I will check all out this weekend. It's strange, the amp never shuts off as far as the power light is concerned. It simply starts to blink as if it was just turned on and powering up which in turn mutes the bass output. My amp turn on is via signal sense from high level input.


I'm sorry if that was covered before, but i would eliminate signal sense as a possible culprit by running a jumper from the 12v in. If the amp stays on correctly then look into getting turn on voltage from a switched source


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> I'm sorry if that was covered before, but i would eliminate signal sense as a possible culprit by running a jumper from the 12v in. If the amp stays on correctly then look into getting turn on voltage from a switched source


I willl definitely try that but why would it work perfectly and then all of a sudden start to give me issues? I suppose these “head scratchers” are just part of car audio installation.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

The signal sense may not be an issue , but it's easy to test. 
The car voltage could be a separate problem or non issue. I know modern cars idle pretty low including mine. As long as the alternator is putting out over 13v while the engine is at normal rpms you should be fine. I'm just not used to seeing a car under 13v at idle.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> The signal sense may not be an issue , but it's easy to test.
> The car voltage could be a separate problem or non issue. I know modern cars idle pretty low including mine. As long as the alternator is putting out over 13v while the engine is at normal rpms you should be fine. I'm just not used to seeing a car under 13v at idle.


Idle in park my voltage is great at 14.7. On my drive I noticed something. When I drive with no accessories on (just daytime runners) my voltage says 12.5 on my reader and bass will mute when raising volume to a louder level. If I turn headlights on my voltage reader jumps to 14.7 and I have no issue with bass muting at all.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

What kind of car again? Does it have some type of hybrid battery system? 
It almost seems like the amp is going into a type of protection due to lack of current available.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> What kind of car again? Does it have some type of hybrid battery system?
> It almost seems like the amp is going into a type of protection due to lack of current available.


2019 Accord EX-L. Yes, that’s what the behavior of the amp is saying but no idea why that would be. Nothing has changed since install. I tested battery voltage this morning before starting car, 12.7, after starting, 14.7. Was also the same reading at amp power and ground. I think it was actually a tad over 15 at amp at one point. I think amp actually will power off when voltage drops below 11 not 10.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Looked into it some and I guess cars can regulate charging depending on load for stop/start systems. Don't know if that applies to your situation.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Looked into it some and I guess cars can regulate charging depending on load for stop/start systems. Don't know if that applies to your situation.


I read that Honda utilizes an electronic load detection (ELD) system to regulate alternators output. Apparently this improves efficiency somehow. Here is an article link below. The first 2 paragraphs pretty much explain it all. I’m not sure if this is actually the issue for me because my guess is this problem would of presented itself from day 1 of install. 🤷‍♂️



https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Idk definitely an issue I've never had to deal with. Sagging voltage due to poor connections I've fixed but an amp that throttles due to low current availability is new for me. 
Is the power wire for your amp after any type of sensor on your positive terminal or before? Any type of factory fuses on the battery terminal?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Idk definitely an issue I've never had to deal with. Sagging voltage due to poor connections I've fixed but an amp that throttles due to low current availability is new for me.
> Is the power wire for your amp after any type of sensor on your positive terminal or before? Any type of factory fuses on the battery terminal?


My power wire is direct from positive battery terminal, to my fuse, then to amp. I’m stumped...and kinda ready to give up. My connections must be fine because it operates fine when there’s a higher voltage reading coming from my plug-in volt meter. Later I’ll just tighten down the connections and try running a jumper from my power wire to remote and see what happens. After that I suppose I’m done.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

It wasn't to imply that you had bad connections. Was just wondering if there was something on the battery terminal that you might be able to bypass. It seems silly that you have to result to keeping an extra load on the battery to keep your voltage right. Maybe something like the rear defroster or something to keep the juice flowing


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> It wasn't to imply that you had bad connections. Was just wondering if there was something on the battery terminal that you might be able to bypass. It seems silly that you have to result to keeping an extra load on the battery to keep your voltage right. Maybe something like the rear defroster or something to keep the juice flowing


Lol, I know, I was just thinking out loud.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> The signal sense may not be an issue , but it's easy to test.
> The car voltage could be a separate problem or non issue. I know modern cars idle pretty low including mine. As long as the alternator is putting out over 13v while the engine is at normal rpms you should be fine. I'm just not used to seeing a car under 13v at idle.


Your brilliant Shadow_419, TY!!!!! I used a jumper to test how it would react utilizing “remote turn on”. It functioned perfectly with normal driving no matter how high I turned volume or bass knob. I turned no accessories in the car on, voltage was 12.5, all was perfect!!! No idea why I was fine on signal sense for a couple weeks but whatever, it works.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

My next question is, can I just run that using an “add-a-fuse” to an open 12v slot at my fuse panel?


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> My next question is, can I just run that using an “add-a-fuse” to an open 12v slot at my fuse panel?


I would add to a ignition switched fuse that's already there, use an empty one if you can verify that it's ignition switched, or tap something like the 12v outlet(cigarette lighter) for the older folks like myself. The turn on circuit for one or two amps won't draw much current. 1-2A is all the current you'll need


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> Your brilliant Shadow_419, TY!!!!! I used a jumper to test how it would react utilizing “remote turn on”. It functioned perfectly with normal driving no matter how high I turned volume or bass knob. I turned no accessories in the car on, voltage was 12.5, all was perfect!!! No idea why I was fine on signal sense for a couple weeks but whatever, it works.


Maybe the system is cutting power to the speakers you tapped for signal? Car computers especially when it comes to ecu management take time to learn behavior before adjusting.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> I would add to a ignition switched fuse that's already there, use an empty one if you can verify that it's ignition switched, or tap something like the 12v outlet(cigarette lighter) for the older folks like myself. The turn on circuit for one or two amps won't draw much current. 1-2A is all the current you'll need


Like this?


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Maybe the system is cutting power to the speakers you tapped for signal? Car computers especially when it comes to ecu management take time to learn behavior before adjusting.


That’s possible. Definitely sounds rational to me.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> Like this?
> View attachment 270417


Yeah that definitely works. Just make sure the one you tap gets power when you have it in acc and on position and has 12v.


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Yeah that definitely works. Just make sure the one you tap gets power when you have it in acc and on position and has 12v.


That will be my next quest to figure out lol


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Dmm is your friend always


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Dmm is your friend always


I suppose I’d set dmm to dc? I’m looking for one that shows 0 with car off, 12v with ac on and 12v with car running? Does it matter what amp fuse is already there when I find one? What amp fuse would I add? 5amp? Sorry for so many questions.


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## Shadow_419 (Aug 1, 2018)

Millz1273 said:


> I suppose I’d set dmm to dc? I’m looking for one that shows 0 with car off, 12v with ac on and 12v with car running? Does it matter what amp fuse is already there when I find one? What amp fuse would I add? 5amp? Sorry for so many questions.


Yes volts dc
Doesn't matter the rating. The one you're taping into goes in one slot and the other slot for a fuse will be the one you're using. 
5A is more than enough. 

Questions are fine. Better to be sure and do it right the first time


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## Millz1273 (Apr 5, 2020)

Shadow_419 said:


> Yes volts dc
> Doesn't matter the rating. The one you're taping into goes in one slot and the other slot for a fuse will be the one you're using.
> 5A is more than enough.
> 
> Questions are fine. Better to be sure and do it right the first time


Thank you so much for help.


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