# Review: Scanspeak 10F/4424G00 Discovery 4 inch Midrange (4 ohm version)



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Scanspeak 10F/4424G00 Discovery 4 inch Midrange (4 ohm version)

Cliff's: Good results. Rising on-axis response above 5khz. But no modal issues to speak of. Would actually make a better wideband driver than most drivers marketed as "wideband". Though, I still wouldn't recommend that. Should not be crossed lower than the typical 300hz (give or take, depending on exact usage) because there's not a lot of excursion here. Thumbs up.






Scanspeak 10F/4424G00 Discovery 4 inch Midrange (4 ohm version)


Scanspeak 10F/4424G00 Discovery 4 inch Midrange (4 ohm version)




www.erinsaudiocorner.com


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Excellent drivers. I have some of these and the full range version and both are terrific. I saw the 400hz HD spike and was concerned...until I read your notes  Performance is surprisingly good at their price point. Thanks for the review!


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

This is exactly the kind of information and page I would love to see when trying to pick out new drivers. The amount of data and the review is unbiased and articulate!

This is excellent data. Can’t wait to see more


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Hi Erin,
Recently I bought these drivers and want to build a 0.5 liters enclosure... But, how would u aim them.
45 degrees in windscreen/a-sale corners aimed towards next seat passengers' inner ear?
Or much more on axis and use dsp's EQ to flatten...?
My plan is to use them 300 - 5000hz. 

They sound pretty good btw.

Thanks in advance.

Greetings
Don Camillo


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

quick listening test will answer all of your questions


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Hi Erin,
> Recently I bought these drivers and want to build a 0.5 liters enclosure... But, how would u aim them.
> 45 degrees in windscreen/a-sale corners aimed towards next seat passengers' inner ear?
> Or much more on axis and use dsp's EQ to flatten...?
> ...


For me 300 is a bit too low for these if I’m honest, they are more of a 3” and a very nice midrange to me from using mine


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

LBaudio said:


> quick listening test will answer all of your questions


Yeah thats the problem, I tried that but my windscreen dash space is pretty small, so with an enclosure attached I cant get to the exact spots were I would make custom enclosures. The curve is more optimal for 45° and that sounded pretty good. But I recall from a German forum that they wrote on axis.... 
And the mounting spot for the enclosure would be different if I use on axis or 45° (because of my small vintage dash)...
So I was hoping if I could find ppl here who knew what would be best to do.


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

dumdum said:


> For me 300 is a bit too low for these if I’m honest, they are more of a 3” and a very nice midrange to me from using mine


Yeah they are small indeed... thought they would be a bit bigger. Sound is pretty good though. 
I dont play very loud and didnt notice much excursion with a large cap at around 300hz. So with dsp 24db for me I think 300hz should be okay right?, cuz I dont play really loud..


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

dumdum said:


> For me 300 is a bit too low for these if I’m honest, they are more of a 3” and a very nice midrange to me from using mine


Has anyone had success as low as 350Hz with 24dB/octave filter on these? Or, is 400Hz kind of it???

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> Has anyone had success as low as 350Hz with 24dB/octave filter on these? Or, is 400Hz kind of it???
> 
> Ge0


I am curious too.... 
But to be honest I believe the German forum even talked about 200hz. (I'll reread it tonight) 

In the scan speak specs pdf they suggest 200hz in 0.5 liter closed! (And even 127hz vented in 0.9L) 
Doubling the 90hz fs they give this would jndeed work. I thought Erin measured 136hz fs but maybe the driver wasnt fully burned in yet.

For SQ and not SQL my guess is 300 should work. But I take Dumdum's advice seriously, and will slowly move lower in hz. But I know Scan Speaks are very well build and can take a lot.


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

A friend used them in his install and 315-400Hz @ 24DB/oct was good option,....at HPF of 400 they sounded a tad more clear


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

The German forum talked about 250hz at 12db with no problems, I have checked.
It also depends on how loud u want to play. For loud SPL's 400hz is better.
I'll try 250 / 24db.

Okay for the aiming, I have 2 options, (see pics), the one on dash is exact in the corners at 45° and the lower is more in front of the dash and more inwards and on axis.



















On dash would give a little corner-db-gain in the lower end (I learned from Erin) which would be nice... but enclosures are more noticeable from outside...

Also this drivers curve is almost flat at 45° so it could work while I normally prefer on axis mostly for their better information/detail and overall sound.

But on axis curve of course can be flattened.
Higher on dash gives a bit higher stage.

So what would u guys do...??
Any thoughts? I am curious


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

Just be careful with the high-pass filter on these smaller drivers - you don't want to go too low... I have a pair of Illusion Audio C3CX coaxials and the manufacturer actually _recommends_ 250hz, 12dB xovers in the product literature. I tired 275hz, 12dB (I think that's what it was) while experimenting and I damaged one of them (the woofer now makes incorrect vibration-related sounds at higher volumes). It's the first speaker that I've ever damaged in my life. I've since learned not to try and have these smaller speakers play too low - especially if you like loud music. 

I replaced the bad C3CX with a new one, but I no longer use the C3CX's anyway - I now use the CDT Unity 8.0 widebands (2" drivers) and REALLY like them - however, I cross them at 500hz.  Not worth trying to make these smaller speakers player the lower frequencies - they won't do it with any real "impact" anyway.


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

I think 350-400hz is a better setting... if you are enthusiastic with the volume... 400 would be better I think, at the end of the day it’s a pure midrange and not designed to have the xmax for enthusiastic listening for me

if in a house at lower listening levels without background noise I could see 250 being ok


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

You will get more impact from the midbass drivers in the range of up to 250-300Hz than from tiny 4" mid with low excursion. Important is what sounds more lifelike and not bother with the lowest possible hi-pass filter you can use with given midrange. Also, with a little gap between midbass and mid you end up quickly on 315-400 hz HPF.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> The German forum talked about 250hz at 12db with no problems, I have checked.
> It also depends on how loud u want to play. For loud SPL's 400hz is better.
> I'll try 250 / 24db.
> 
> ...


Before you go cutting up that beautiful vintage a-pillar / dash please try something. Mount your midranges in your kicks. I didn't believe this would work when someone mentioned it to me a few years ago. However, I tried it and could not believe how well it worked. This was the best sounding vehicle I had built to date.


















Just place a towel behind the drivers and set them in place. You may need to do a quick tune to adjust for the new location. But, you will be very surprised how well they can image.

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Yeah thats a good idea to start a bit higher, the lowest possible or a bit higher probably wont make a huge difference, but will save the mids in the end indeed. 
Thanks I will do that...!

Geo, thanks for the comment of saving the nice vintage dash, thats true and a good tip.
I was always a big fan of kickpanels, also for their better image when years ago there were no dsp's yet. I had a nice 3way about 15 yrs ago and made kickpanels for the mids. But, my legs are pretty long and when I listened alone in the car the sound was good, but with a passenger it wasnt really. And also bc of my long legs, not good for them. 
The higher stage of a pillar/dash setup is for me a better option I think. But I will try it this weekend, because another plus with kicks is that the speakers arent visible from outside. And on dash are, also for stereo thieves. I dont know if those exists anymore, but decades ago it was terrible...

I do have bought another dash so I save the original and make them in the used one and put new vinyl on everything...
Nice Scans in those kicks btw!👍
They sound even better than the 10f, (but also a bit bigger)...


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> Before you go cutting up that beautiful vintage a-pillar / dash please try something. Mount your midranges in your kicks. I didn't believe this would work when someone mentioned it to me a few years ago. However, I tried it and could not believe how well it worked. This was the best sounding vehicle I had built to date.
> View attachment 278348
> 
> 
> ...


Okay first thanks again for mentioning the kickpanel tip, that I even didnt try the last years because of past experiences and wanting a higher stage. 

I listened to some enclosures I had from the floor, and I must say; I really was surprised at how nice it sounded!... After adjusting the crossover so overlapp with the mid in door was gone, and the 10f in kicks sounded very nice!! I even had a nice high soundstage, better image, and very noticeable was also the more equal pathlengths of the drivers to my ears, compared to on dash (but passive without dsp TA). 

So the kickpanel option is a good one especially you dont see the drivers mounted on dash enclosures with my thin a- pillars! 👍

However, I didnt listen with a passenger yet, gonna do that this weekend... My past experience with kickpanels are legs get inthe way of sound... 

And they are aimed to the sunroof, which when open (like I often have since its my summer car) makes the sound louder outside.... than on dash on axis.... But when truly listening I often have everything closed (if not to hot).

But I also want to make 6 or 8" in kick room, venting in sills.... --> I think this might be a problem... isnt it that the waves created by the lows will mess up the 350hz and up waves from the 10f mids, which lay in front of them? 

For this maybe its better to mount the mid just a little higher. Then also my foot can rest under it (and not just in front)....


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

I realise I am messing up Erin's topic with my personal install build. 
Perhaps its better to create a new install topic or log for this... isnt it?
I can do that later, gotta go now bc of work...


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Did those come from the factory with speakers?
If so, then where are those speaker holes?


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Okay first thanks again for mentioning the kickpanel tip, that I even didnt try the last years because of past experiences and wanting a higher stage.
> 
> I listened to some enclosures I had from the floor, and I must say; I really was surprised at how nice it sounded!... After adjusting the crossover so overlapp with the mid in door was gone, and the 10f in kicks sounded very nice!! I even had a nice high soundstage, better image, and very noticeable was also the more equal pathlengths of the drivers to my ears, compared to on dash (but passive without dsp TA).
> 
> ...


Read this post before settling on midbass speaker locations









Crazy Imaging in a Stock System


I've been driving around in a rental car today, and stumbled across a really interesting phenomenon. Basically I was listening to some tunes and noticed that the imaging in this rental car is incredibly precise. On some tracks the center was floating at eye level, and when there were a number...




www.diymobileaudio.com





Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Holmz said:


> Did those come from the factory with speakers?
> If so, then where are those speaker holes?


Uhm I am not sure if I understand the question correctly. 
But my car had from factory 4' speakers in the doors (front and back doors, I only use front). I changed the drivers with 5" alu cone drivers in the doors (on wider baffle) and used tweeters on dash, so 2 way. But wasnt too happy with it. Mainly bc I had a dip between 60 and 100hz. And I still have. So I thought about 6 or 8" further up front in the kicks (have to make this location with baffles) and vent them in the sills... 

First plan was to use Satori 13cm mids on dash in custom enclosures but that would be too large so I bought the Scan Speak 10F and didnt regret it. They are nice, lots of detail (almost too much detailed sound..) but balance is most important imo, so an not done yet. 
I even dont miss the tweeters, playing the 10f almost fullrange from 350hz at the moment. 

But I want to leave out the door locations, Bc of rattles. Although, maybe I should see how they sound there... 

But very steady kickpanels have almost zero resonance.... compared to the doors...


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> Read this post before settling on midbass speaker locations
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, thats interesting....I'll read it, hmm 13 pages... it will take a bit...


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Don Camillo said:


> Uhm I am not sure if I understand the question correctly.
> But my car had from factory 4' speakers in the doors (front and back doors, I only use front). I changed the drivers with 5" alu cone drivers in the doors (on wider baffle) and used tweeters on dash, so 2 way. But wasnt too happy with it. Mainly bc I had a dip between 60 and 100hz. And I still have. So I thought about 6 or 8" further up front in the kicks (have to make this location with baffles) and vent them in the sills...
> 
> First plan was to use Satori 13cm mids on dash in custom enclosures but that would be too large so I bought the Scan Speak 10F and didnt regret it. They are nice, lots of detail (almost too much detailed sound..) but balance is most important imo, so an not done yet.
> ...


Ahh I see.
I was hoping that there was a dash location could have tried.

Have you consider dealing with the 60-100 Hz dip using a subwoofer?


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Holmz said:


> Ahh I see.
> I was hoping that there was a dash location could have tried.
> 
> Have you consider dealing with the 60-100 Hz dip using a subwoofer?


I have a 12" sealed in the trunk, but want that as low in hz as possible, otherwise u hear too much from the back.. I have a 15" that will be IB in the trunk. Lowest in hz as possible, with 6 or 8" in kick location venting in sills should take over at around 40- 50hz, then the 10f at 300hz and Amt tweeter at around 6khz or even higher. The 10f 30° off axis is flat untill 9 khz and 15° off axis untill 12 khz.

I tried to simulate a custom dash location firing to windscreen when I took the dash off, but I didnt really like te sound it gave... maybe because my windscreen is curved a lot in the corners.... 
I will try to make a better overview with pics in a new topic next week... 
I dont mind making custom enclosures in custom locations and checking for the best locations to use.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Don Camillo said:


> I have a 12" sealed in the trunk, but want that as low in hz as possible, otherwise u hear too much from the back.. I have a 15" that will be IB in the trunk. Lowest in hz as possible, with 6 or 8" in kick location venting in sills should take over at around 40- 50hz, then the 10f at 300hz and Amt tweeter at around 6khz or even higher. The 10f 30° off axis is flat untill 9 khz and 15° off axis untill 12 khz.
> 
> I tried to simulate a custom dash location firing to windscreen when I took the dash off, but I didnt really like te sound it gave... maybe because my windscreen is curved a lot in the corners....
> I will try to make a better overview with pics in a new topic next week...
> I dont mind making custom enclosures in custom locations and checking for the best locations to use.


The IB may be more linear and have less distortion harmonics that may pull the sound back to a lesser extent.

Or a bandpass with a choke at 100Hz to keep those harmonics from pulling it back.
(Basically another box in front of the sealed section with a ~80 Hz port.)


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Holmz said:


> The IB may be more linear and have less distortion harmonics that may pull the sound back to a lesser extent.
> 
> Or a bandpass with a choke at 100Hz to keep those harmonics from pulling it back.
> (Basically another box in front of the sealed section with a ~80 Hz port.)


Ahh cool! I didnt know the harmonic distortion would pull the sound back.
More reason to use the 15" then 👍


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Sometimes the 10f sounds a bit too forward... to my taste, with lots of info but I also love analoge sounding drivers... 
They are not perfect blend in the system yet, so I have to tweak the xo some more, but I have to do a lot to get them more smooth sounding. 
Which makes me wonder if they will sound to my liking in the end... 

Note: they still play fullrange and maybe a bit too much on axis, which of course is pretty bright.....
Got more adjusting to do.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Sometimes the 10f sounds a bit too forward... to my taste, with lots of info but I also love analoge sounding drivers...
> They are not perfect blend in the system yet, so I have to tweak the xo some more, but I have to do a lot to get them more smooth sounding.
> Which makes me wonder if they will sound to my liking in the end...
> 
> ...


That's my exact impression of the 10F. It is highly detailed but almost too "in your face". In comparison, the 12M's I've used in the past were laid back and smooth.

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> That's my exact impression of the 10F. It is highly detailed but almost too "in your face". In comparison, the 12M's I've used in the past were laid back and smooth.
> 
> Ge0


Yep so far I completely agree.... (I adjusted a bit more, although better, but not smooth/analoge yet...

So u dont use the 12M anymore?
What do u use now? And whats your thought between them...


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Yep so far I completely agree.... (I adjusted a bit more, although better, but not smooth/analoge yet...
> 
> So u dont use the 12M anymore?
> What do u use now? And whats your thought between them...


I sold my 12M's a few years ago . They were my first choice for my new build but don't fit. They are a true 4" midrange.

I use the 10F's now. I have 5 of them situated in my car for L/R, Center, and Rear fill.

I think I already expressed my thoughts between them. But, I will reiterate. The 10F's are in your face like an angry German voice. The 12M's are laid back like a Barry White voice. The 12M's were just more mellow and less fatiguing to listen to.

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> I sold my 12M's a few years ago . They were my first choice for my new build but don't fit. They are a true 4" midrange.
> 
> I use the 10F's now. I have 5 of them situated in my car for L/R, Center, and Rear fill.
> 
> ...


Yeah I heard some 12M years ago in a car and it sounded superb... but the owner was a professional loudspeaker builder, and he had everything around to get it that good...!

I am getting the 10f a bit better but the fatigueing and screaming is still there... Fortunately not as a angry German lmao, but I was listening to an old Mark Knopfler - Sailing to Philadelphia cd and the voice of Van Morrison on song The last laugh... is shouting in my ear, as if he is using a horn to shout in.... (but its pretty sharp on most sets).
Other High end recordings sound great, untill a bright louder part is played...
And I even play about 30° off axis firing them to the Sun visors
Yeah audio can be great but also a pain in the butt....

The biggest pro of the 10f for me is the small 0.5 ltrs it needs...
A 12m or Fostex or something most often need 2+ liters...


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

45° off axis is better, I noticed, and probably with a good dsp it can work very nice.
For ppl who love lots of detail and bright sound its great...but I am very focussed on getting it perfectly in balance soundwise, according to my taste... and that is tbh a tubelike and analogue sound, but not too soft and laid back... but with attack and authority too... 

I must say its pretty good now, still a bit forward sounding. But its getting better. Not there yet though.


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> I sold my 12M's a few years ago . They were my first choice for my new build but don't fit. They are a true 4" midrange.
> 
> I use the 10F's now. I have 5 of them situated in my car for L/R, Center, and Rear fill.
> 
> ...


Hi Geo, 
I found the issue with my set! 
With aiming and adjusting crossover parts I couldnt get it sounding right... (some cds were kind of pretty good and some were like crap I definitely couldnt enjoy, it was too far off. And I knew many liked the 10F. So I checked with the Focal Tools cd how in/out phase was (assuming electrical phase was good) and some hz tests. 
-> out of phase sounded different than normally... I changed phase/wires from the lowmid in door, and Bamm the direct irritating bright shout was gone... It was smooth and not in your face. Laid back, but... it was too warm... I didnt have the right xo parts with me so I am gonna tune it further this week. 
But sound now is finally more correct... 
So I would suggest to change polarity of all the low mid drivers.If that didnt solve it, changing the 10F's polarity...
Which low mids do you have btw..?
Okay later 👍


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Hi Geo,
> I found the issue with my set!
> With aiming and adjusting crossover parts I couldnt get it sounding right... (some cds were kind of pretty good and some were like crap I definitely couldnt enjoy, it was too far off. And I knew many liked the 10F. So I checked with the Focal Tools cd how in/out phase was (assuming electrical phase was good) and some hz tests.
> -> out of phase sounded different than normally... I changed phase/wires from the lowmid in door, and Bamm the direct irritating bright shout was gone... It was smooth and not in your face. Laid back, but... it was too warm... I didnt have the right xo parts with me so I am gonna tune it further this week.
> ...


I have Dynaudio MW182 midbasses at the moment. They cross to the midranges at 400Hz. All phasing Left to Right is correct for my 3way front stage. All phasing driver to driver on each side is set to blend crossover points flat. I use a Helix DSP so these things are easy to adjust.

When I critique the 10F vs other speakers I am talking about very subtle differences. Not annoyances like you encountered. I'm glad you performed some experiments and found a good blend for you. How / where did you have the midranges mounted?

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> I have Dynaudio MW182 midbasses at the moment. They cross to the midranges at 400Hz. All phasing Left to Right is correct for my 3way front stage. All phasing driver to driver on each side is set to blend crossover points flat. I use a Helix DSP so these things are easy to adjust.
> 
> When I critique the 10F vs other speakers I am talking about very subtle differences. Not annoyances like you encountered. I'm glad you performed some experiments and found a good blend for you. How / where did you have the midranges mounted?
> 
> Ge0


MW182's woww... nice. 
I regret not buying some used mw172's a few months back.

At the moment I have 13cm midwoofers as lowmids until 350/400hz in the front doors (low at the front) a few inch from the 10F. 

Indeed it was annoying before, thats now gone. But havent finetuned it yet, like you have. I will do it by a dsp.3 later but first I want to hear what the new set with 10F and new 6 or 8" in the kicks (and 15" IB sub) will sound like with a pretty good tuned passive xo. 
I am a home high end freak for about 30 yrs now and build multiple speakers myself and I know that I also persue a certain (in short: analogue but with detail) sound... 
So also not too much in your face.. 
But I belief its all about balancing, so with the gear, EQ tuning and cables itself you can get it balanced even with a driver thats a bit forward sounding... but of course to a certain amount, and its just best to start with the drivers who are most to your liking... then u are set better to start with. 

I'll see what it brings... Still got a lot to do (and unfortunately my high season for work is almost beginning meaning, I am not sure if I can get it done before winter)... 

I whish it was summer all year around... 😄


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

I am running the Satori mr-13p in my dash with no enclosure and they sound excellent. I have the same mids in my truck in pods that started out sealed albeit probably a touch too small but not radically so. I ended up opening up a hole in the pods to "breathe" though the dash mat and they sounded better (aperiodic ? ). Anyway, the point is I'm not so sure you need to worry abotu enclosures for those mids if you want to try something different.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> MW182's woww... nice.
> I regret not buying some used mw172's a few months back.
> 
> At the moment I have 13cm midwoofers as lowmids until 350/400hz in the front doors (low at the front) a few inch from the 10F.
> ...


I know what you mean by the weather getting colder. My available fabrication time for this year is coming to an end as well .

If you are serious about wanting a set of MW172 this is the person to contact. He always seems to have something for excellent prices:









FS: dynaudio/kef/abyss


cleaning house, these need to go. prices are firm, no package deals, making very little on these prices. everything is NIB. all prices plus shipping and pp fees dyna esotar 110.2, 3 pairs $775 dyna esotar 650.2, 3 pairs $575 dyna esotec 172, 3 pairs $350 dyna esotar 1200, 1 $650 kef blade...




www.diymobileaudio.com





Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

preston said:


> I am running the Satori mr-13p in my dash with no enclosure and they sound excellent. I have the same mids in my truck in pods that started out sealed albeit probably a touch too small but not radically so. I ended up opening up a hole in the pods to "breathe" though the dash mat and they sounded better (aperiodic ? ). Anyway, the point is I'm not so sure you need to worry abotu enclosures for those mids if you want to try something different.


The Satori's you have were my first choice tbh... I am guessing they are a pretty large bit better even than the 10F.
Indeed how you did it venting in the carpet with a large whole works better than with a too small kickpanel enclosure. I experienced that too... (but I think the exact liters are even better...)
And after the former concern of not getting it right I too thought about the Satoris again.... also why they didnt make a 10cm yet!?¿ It would definately sell.


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> I know what you mean by the weather getting colder. My available fabrication time for this year is coming to an end as well .
> 
> If you are serious about wanting a set of MW172 this is the person to contact. He always seems to have something for excellent prices:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip of Porsche... however, I live in the Netherlands...
Thats a bit out of shipping reach...
I could have bought the 2 mw172 for 200 a set on a used stuff website. 
But I am sure something nice will show up in the next months .
Maybe the Audio development or nice Etons or Scan Speaks....
👍


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Oh crap, I forgot you were in the Netherlands. You're close enough to Denmark. You should be able to score some deals on Dyn or Scan...

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> Oh crap, I forgot you were in the Netherlands. You're close enough to Denmark. You should be able to score some deals on Dyn or Scan...
> 
> Ge0


Yeah thats why I write so strange sometimes, when I cant find the exact words to describe what I mean... 😄

Where did you install your mw182's? 
In the door I assume right?
Doesnt that rattle with 10"s? 

U could play without sub with those 10's... do you?


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Don Camillo said:


> Yeah thats why I write so strange sometimes, when I cant find the exact words to describe what I mean... 😄
> 
> Where did you install your mw182's?
> In the door I assume right?
> ...


First off. Your English writing skills, especially centered towards the USA dialect are excellent. Absolutely no problems there. I know exactly what you are saying.

Yes, I mounted the 10's in the doors of my Porsche Macan. No rattles at all.

The doors are only good down to 40Hz at best before you start to hear serious rattle. That is why I installed a sub to carry the last few octaves in bass.









The long and involved process of upgrading my 2016 Macan...


Day 2.5 Oh boy! I fits like a glove in my subfloor Finish up the stack Now attach the top baffle. More rain and lost daylight. Move operations indoors again After all this work the [email protected] subwoofer better fit... WOW! I could have went with a deeper 10" sub. But, I'm happy...




www.diymobileaudio.com





You may want to browse through the other pages in my build log. It may give you some ideas.

Ge0


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Ge0 said:


> First off. Your English writing skills, especially centered towards the USA dialect are excellent. Absolutely no problems there. I know exactly what you are saying.
> 
> Yes, I mounted the 10's in the doors of my Porsche Macan. No rattles at all.
> 
> ...


Ohh thats you with the Macan... yeah I certainly have seen that nice car with awesome build!... 
Thanks for the comment about my American English 😊 Its indeed not bad, and I think its due to all the American movies I have watched in the last decades.... and I learn language pretty fast. I also speak German about the same... 

When nice weather is over I will read some more in your build log, I enjoyed ot before, until nice weather came... 😊

For us in Holland is today the last nice sunny day for a while... so I go take a ride in the Jag and enjoy these sunbeams.... ☉👌 and see if I can get it better tuned...


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## Don Camillo (Jul 13, 2017)

Geo you are indeed right about the sound description!...
Today I tuned a lot, and was amazed by how nice it sounded. Especially when I used High End coils for the lowmids in door and the xo was almost "correct". Then it suddenly becomes "wowww"... ☺
For the non believers regarding SQ differences for cables and all the XO parts (that I had a conversation with earlier), I whished they could have heard it today... the differences were very obvious!...

But... the sound signature of the 10F sometimes when music was a bit bright and fierce indeed is a bit to the forward sounding side... 
For sensitive ears with a certain taste in sound this can be fatiguing... while others would love it...
Some other mids definately can be more smooth and laid back... Its of course all a matter of taste. 

Actually I thought this could be changed if you adjust the curve with the dsp. But now that I have it pretty good with my passive xo, I can imagine its part of the driver and even a dsp (that I never had before), may not be able to fix it. 

When mellow music and voices are played its really very nice... The micro annoyment as described is just for some ears... 

For me, I am one of those ears, and will mabye play a bit more with the 10F, but I am also thinking about using the Satori MR13P... 

But Geo, I am glad u pointed me to the kickpanel idea again... thanks.
I think part of how nice it sounds now is because of the kickpanels.... 👌👍 Awesome!


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