# Best midrange drivers



## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Hello,
Looking for the best sounding mid to cover about 200hz-3.5Khz. Drivers will be on axis. Max budget of about $1,000 per pair.
Thanks, Mike.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Mille 700 and some hookers.
Morel makes some excellent mids in the Supremo and Elate series.
Dynaudio Esotar 430


I could name many more but what sounds great to me may not sound great to you. All the drivers will have little areas that they are good and bad at, just have to find the one you like best.
Is there any high end shops in your area? If so you could at least get an idea of what they sound like on their sound board.

That being said, ML700.

This is a great seller: Hertz Mille MLK 3PA 6 5" 3 Way Comps ML280 ML700 ml 1600 Best of The Best | eBay
Just contact him and ask him if he has some ML700s. If so they will be under $300. Just tell him I sent you and he will hook you up.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

midrange or mid? what size


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

I have never heard the Hertz drivers. I had a high end shop back in NY that I sold in 2010, did a lot of Focal and Quart. That was 4 years ago, and I curious to see what is the latest and greatest. Looks like a lot of guys here are running home drivers- scanspeak, Seas, etc. I would like to keep it 5", but not limited by space restrictions. Any one have experience with Accuton in the car?


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## iyamwutiam (Nov 20, 2006)

Had them -but was advised by some I trust that a passive was best for these. accuton® Carefully selected loudspeaker drivers. was the one I think. The car can be a not so clean environment at times. My advice is stick to a decent set - Dyaudio/ Seas Lotus reference etc unless you really have a great ear, RTA equipment etc. Put in enough time I am sure whatever high quality driver will be spectacular but all the nuance will be lost once you start driving (sorry but its more true than not).

Better to just get a set a lot of installers are familiar with and can tune easily than to put in a lot of hours getting results that won't be that discernible with the car running. Remember competions usually have the car turned off. Best of luck with your choices.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Dynaudio Esotar2 430's are the very best, imho.

Scanspeak 12M.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

again.. what size are you looking for


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

also, what shop in NY?


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Ideally, 5", but again, I can fit nearly anything. The shop was Precision Mobile Audio. We were rated "Top 50 Retailer" by Mobile Electronics Mag and Rockford Dealer of the Year, in 2006 , shop was featured in the mag. Over 20 years in the biz, tons of competition experience back to 1988, moved out of the industry 4 years ago. Time to build one last car for myself, no compromises.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

if you want a 5 inch, then the scan 15wu


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

I have seen those, looks like a candidate. I do plan on buying several drivers, test to determine final pair. I have used Dynaudio i the past, forgot the models- I used the 8" mid bass, 3" soft dome mid and I wanna say the MD100 tweeter? Nice overall, but just a bit dark for me. Don't get me wrong, great drivers, just looking for something difference.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

The Esotar2 430 is smaller and more expensive then what you are wanting, but don't confuse it with any Dyn product you have used in the past. These are in a class of their own.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

I would be a bit concerned with a 3.5" as I am trying to go down to about 200Hz with good volume. Also- I like the idea of the Scan paper cone. wow- I just looked it up- that Dyn has an FS of 64Hz, that is low for a 3.5"


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

As far as tuning goes- I am willing to put in the time, and have built / tuned several high end IASCA winners back in the day. Plenty comfortable with an RTA, scope and 31 band eq.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> The Esotar2 430 is smaller and more expensive then what you are wanting, but don't confuse it with any Dyn product you have used in the past. These are in a class of their own.


Agreed. They can be compared to the others. Absolutely stunning midrange. I've torture tested mine from 100hz/12db and played them wide band style 160-8khz. They do so much so well and are practically indestructible short of a foot with 260lbs going through it (yes, I'm still bitter). 

Seriously though, forget about the dome midrange and the Esotec cones,these are better in every way. 

They will do 200hz/24db all day with 150w behind them. 

Since you're going on axis, the Esotar 650 is another great candidate. It has good excursion abilities and a 39hz Fs according to the Klippel, not that it will matter in the range you're playing them. The midrange ability is far beyond what the Esotecs will do. 200-3.5khz is beyond easy for this driver. It was by far my favorite 6.5" ever.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Another Esotar 430 vote here. And I do not like Esotec so yeah, I wouldn't judge the Esotar based on Esotec gear. Night and day.

SEAS Nextel is great. I love the SEAS mags as well but breakup causes issues above 2250hz. Not sure if Accuton has the right tech in a 5" or smaller. There's guy selling a pair of their flagship 6.5's on diyaudio for $1k which is the deal of the century...I've been resisting them since they are my dream home mids to pair with my RAALs. But that is a big driver, the motor dwarfs the basket/cone on those. Hard to use in a car.

Edit: These look fun :
The Madisound Speaker Store


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

dyn esotar, Jbl C 560 gti, maybe some ZR Lab's


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## robtr8 (Dec 6, 2011)

No love for some L4SE's?

What are the other parts of the system?


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

You're right, I am drawing a conclusion of Dyn based a system I built years ago with the older products. The rest of the system...I will be testing a bunch of gear, but have some ideas. IMO, the mids are the heart, starting there. Source will be an Astell and Kern, processor either a PS8 or Dbx, a pair of Milbert tube amps for the mids/tweets, sub amps tbd, but solid and tons of power, maybe old school. Subs tbd- but I will be running IB in the kicks, 12", possible Fi, AE or B&W (BuickGN I would like to pick your brain on the AE when I get to that point please). This system is a reincarnation of a buddy's BMW from back in the day. Basic in design, complex in the build. Not sure about the tweeters yet, but I would like to be able to mount coaxial (another reason I would like a 5" mid). I will decide on the mids, then move to the tweets. As of now B&W Silver Signature tweeters (open to suggestions, prefer hard dome). The mid/tweets will be on axis in the corners of the dash, each pointed at the driver, gauges relocated to the center, etc(one seater..I am done impressing judges and rule books, this is just for me)


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## robtr8 (Dec 6, 2011)

So the sub's will be going up to 200 Hz? Is this a DD or just a weekend car? Which Bimmer?


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

Precisionmike said:


> You're right, I am drawing a conclusion of Dyn based a system I built years ago with the older products. The rest of the system...I will be testing a bunch of gear, but have some ideas. IMO, the mids are the heart, starting there. Source will be an Astell and Kern, processor either a PS8 or Dbx, a pair of Milbert tube amps for the mids/tweets, sub amps tbd, but solid and tons of power, maybe old school. Subs tbd- but I will be running IB in the kicks, 12", possible Fi, AE or B&W (BuickGN I would like to pick your brain on the AE when I get to that point please). This system is a reincarnation of a buddy's BMW from back in the day. Basic in design, complex in the build. Not sure about the tweeters yet, but I would like to be able to mount coaxial (another reason I would like a 5" mid). I will decide on the mids, then move to the tweets. As of now B&W Silver Signature tweeters (open to suggestions, prefer hard dome). The mid/tweets will be on axis in the corners of the dash, each pointed at the driver, gauges relocated to the center, etc(one seater..I am done impressing judges and rule books, this is just for me)


Sounds like your buddies name was Earl. Have you thought about Velodynes for subs? Which A&K model do you use?


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## SouthSyde (Dec 25, 2006)

Precisionmike said:


> You're right, I am drawing a conclusion of Dyn based a system I built years ago with the older products. The rest of the system...I will be testing a bunch of gear, but have some ideas. IMO, the mids are the heart, starting there. Source will be an Astell and Kern, processor either a PS8 or Dbx, a pair of Milbert tube amps for the mids/tweets, sub amps tbd, but solid and tons of power, maybe old school. Subs tbd- but I will be running IB in the kicks, 12", possible Fi, AE or B&W (BuickGN I would like to pick your brain on the AE when I get to that point please). This system is a reincarnation of a buddy's BMW from back in the day. Basic in design, complex in the build. Not sure about the tweeters yet, but I would like to be able to mount coaxial (another reason I would like a 5" mid). I will decide on the mids, then move to the tweets. As of now B&W Silver Signature tweeters (open to suggestions, prefer hard dome). The mid/tweets will be on axis in the corners of the dash, each pointed at the driver, gauges relocated to the center, etc(one seater..I am done impressing judges and rule books, this is just for me)


You are correct, its hard to compare the esotec with the esotar2 series... The esotar2 has to totallly different sound signature. I can see where you said the esotec 3way with the domes can sound dark, but the new esotars sounds very lively and fast. They just sound, well, "real." They can cover the freqency range easily and with its small size very easy to install.

Just my honest opnion, any more questions feel free to ask!
~Chad


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I have a set of BNIB Hertz Mille ML 1600 drivers I'd sell you. I love these, personally. I bought them, never used them. They're expensive m'fers, too!


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Precisionmike said:


> You're right, I am drawing a conclusion of Dyn based a system I built years ago with the older products. The rest of the system...I will be testing a bunch of gear, but have some ideas. IMO, the mids are the heart, starting there. Source will be an Astell and Kern, processor either a PS8 or Dbx, a pair of Milbert tube amps for the mids/tweets, sub amps tbd, but solid and tons of power, maybe old school. Subs tbd- but I will be running IB in the kicks, 12", possible Fi, AE or B&W (BuickGN I would like to pick your brain on the AE when I get to that point please). This system is a reincarnation of a buddy's BMW from back in the day. Basic in design, complex in the build. Not sure about the tweeters yet, but I would like to be able to mount coaxial (another reason I would like a 5" mid). I will decide on the mids, then move to the tweets. As of now B&W Silver Signature tweeters (open to suggestions, prefer hard dome). The mid/tweets will be on axis in the corners of the dash, each pointed at the driver, gauges relocated to the center, etc(one seater..I am done impressing judges and rule books, this is just for me)


Was your buddy's car a red 5 series?


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

This system is going in a mid 90's 5 series BMW. Yes, I am referring to Earl Zausmer. Milbert, the Most Musical Amplifiers. I have listened to many of the top cars built over the past 20 years (have some IASCA Finals trophy's, out of it for the past 4 years), and no other car sounded better than his, IMO. BY FAR the most natural sound in a car. I am referring to the original set up the the motorized mids and the 13". My car is going to pick up where that system left off; more extensive dash build and utilizing newer/better equipment. Earl and I have been discussing the design, and it was his idea to do the A&K- hoping to do the 240, may settle for the new 120. He also recommended a pair of home wide band (such as the Lowthers) and get away from the mid x-over point, and also have a single point source. If I cannot find a mid that I like, I may just go back to his original set up with the B&W 801 mids. I figure there has to be something better now. Also- his car sounded the best when the mid/tweet were coax, which I realize limits my tweeter options. The magic happened only when coax, and the music became holographic. If you heard the car, you know what I am referring to. This car will not be a daily. It will reside in my garage, and be taken out occasionally. Yes- the subs will be crossed at about 200hz. I have not looked into Velodyne, but would consider. Thanks for all the input!


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

So that car was listed for sale in Dupont Registry around 2002 and sold to someone in my hometown in Idaho. I have pictures of it somewhere...that car is incredible and it served as one of my primary inspirations for this hobby. The motorized tweeters were amazing as were the IB 12's in the kicks that vented to the fenderwells. Absolutely incredible.

I 2nd AE for IB subs. I had 6 AE OB15's in my living room and it is my favorite sub setup ever. GR Research makes a servo IB/OB 12, maybe adapt the amp for 12v? I have a friend whose company builds 12v power supplies for Hypex amps, I could get you one to power the GR Hypex servo setup. That would probably be the best sounding car sub option ever attempted.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

I could not agree more with...._that car is incredible and it served as one of my primary inspirations for this hobby._. I knew when I first heard that sound I had to have it. In about 1997 I had a 95 525, and all the same equipment Earl had. I build a dash, but never completed the car (see pic. I did finish the dash, just can't find those pics). I sold the car and the equipment off years ago. Time to finish what I started.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Here are a few pics of the original dash. It ended up being about 1" thick bondo/fiberglass mix with a bunch of lead shot mixed in. It weighed about 75 lbs when I finish and was a solid as a parking lot. With the new dash, I am moving the gauges to the center to reduce reflections and offer a much more symmetrical shape. I am also doing a lot of testing regarding dispersion control and absorption. Many more ideas to make this build much better than the last. When I finished this dash I threw a pair of $200 Quart coaxial in- and it sounded WAY better than my T-Bird that I top 5'd twice at World Finals.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Wow! Amazing stuff, can't wait to see the final product. And what a small world it is.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Just real quick, I only have a minute but the AE subs are obviously awesome and with the AV line coming back, you can have a 15" with all of the benefits of the IB15s plus 23mm+ xmax, higher power handling, plust a "real" suspension.

The ID Max is also one to look at. I can't really recommend the 12" version over any 12" sub from AE but the 15" Max has a sound all of it's own and it's one of those subs that will do it all. I couldn't recommend it over the AE and I couldn't recommend the AE over the Max for a standard install. They both sound very , very good. I can elaborate more but I just wanted to throw the Max 15 out there (if you're even considering a 15" sub) to get it on your radar. I was very skeptical at first of it being a good sounding sub, I thought it was more one note SPL oriented but I was wrong. On the flip side, the sub is massive and it's probably not going anywhere else other than a trunk so kicks or quarter panels are (probably) out of the question.

The Max will fill your 200hz requirement but I think AE pretty much dominates the field in the lower midbass to lower midrange area, at least compared to other car audio subs. Quite often when I wanted a natural, dynamic sound I had my AEs lowpassed ~120hz. The weirdest thing was when I played them with no crossover, I could totally convince passengers I had coaxes in the rear deck. It literally sounded like I had at least the stock 6.5" full rangers back there. The other thing going for AE is John will build you whatever you want. It might take a little while but that's one smart dude who can tailor make a sub for your requirements. Sorry for taking this off topic, I just meant to throw that ID Max15 out there.

One last thing... While I've had a good bit of experience with the AE subs, Erin H has done lot of measurements and he has more objective data than anyone. He's also used the Home IB15s subs in his car with good results. He could probably provide better information than I can since mine is mostly subjective and you know how that goes.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

You and me both! Now you can see why I am trying to find the best drivers I can, better than the original B&W. The last dash took me over 100 hours to build, I may spend more time just experimenting on this new one. When I narrow down the mid drivers to 3-4 I am going to do a test. I will mount each one on a large baffle with a sheet of black grill cloth hiding the drivers, and have my son switch them as I listen. Blind listening test- only the sound matters.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

BuickGN- thanks for the info on the subs! I could fit 15's, but tight up front. Earl had done that on the 2nd build, but later regretted. The 13" in the kick was enough and *INCREDIBLE*. When I say enough, the FS was 17Hz, and the quickness and impact was indescribable. Every other car I ever heard sounded like a car...his sounded_ real _ My philosophy on this build- I am selecting the drivers that will work the best, and building the car around them. ALL DUE RESPECT- I normally go about something like this with no outside influence, except Earl this time, he and I have been taking about this for years. I am here, because I have been following the forum, and clearly, you guys know whats up, and I respect your input. Thanks.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

John at AE might have parts available to build IB12's, he's done it before.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

sirbOOm said:


> I have a set of BNIB Hertz Mille ML 1600 drivers I'd sell you. I love these, personally. I bought them, never used them. They're expensive m'fers, too!


One of the best mids I ever heard. Just wonderful sound. That being said they are not great above 2600 hz. They are a bit hollow after that. At least in my experience.


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## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

200 hz is way too high for the sub. You will run into localization issues and you'd be hearing most of your mid bass from your sub in mono. A true point source is not so critical in a car. With all the reflections bouncing around, each reflection is a unique point source.

The reason coax works is that it gives virtually identical arrival times from the mid and tweet. Even with TA from a tuning perspective it's easier to dial in coherence when the mids and tweets are within 1/4-1/2 wavelength of whatever you're using as the xover point.

I'm a Scan fan. Love the transparency and accuracy.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

sqnut said:


> 200 hz is way too high for the sub. You will run into localization issues and you'd be hearing most of your mid bass from your sub in mono. A true point source is not so critical in a car. With all the reflections bouncing around, each reflection is a unique point source.
> 
> The reason coax works is that it gives virtually identical arrival times from the mid and tweet. Even with TA from a tuning perspective it's easier to dial in coherence when the mids and tweets are within 1/4-1/2 wavelength of whatever you're using as the xover point.
> 
> I'm a Scan fan. Love the transparency and accuracy.


You missed where his subs will be in stereo up front.


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## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

Architect7 said:


> You missed where his subs will be in stereo up front.


::Facepalm::


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

So I think I have narrowed down the list (still researching). Looking at the Dyn, Scan, and cannot stop thinking about the B&W (always been a fan of their sound). I will most definitely be doing a coax set up (as proven to be most effective based by my prior testing and Earl's car in this specific scenario) As a result, I would have to use the larger Dyn and Scan. I would also like to keep the mid/tweet brand the same (maybe, tweeter testing to follow). From what I have seen, the better Scan and Dyn tweets are too big to do coax. I may also try a wide-bander (limiting bandwidth) to offer more crossover point options.


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## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

If you're going for sound at that level, don't go without a tweeter. The difference between a wide-bander and a tweeter is in the 10K+ range. You may feel there is practically nothing up there and go for band limitation for benefit of one less xover point and one less driver location.

What's up there past 10k are the top end harmonics so the shimmer on high hats with tweeters will sound more open and alive while with the wide-bander it will be a touch darker and closed.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

It is just me...but if you were going to do a "coax" type setup, I would use a driver that is designed with that in mind...like a TAD from their new home speakers, KEF, or Tannoy.

I think it would be hard to beat the TAD 5.25 from their Reference One home speaker. You can get the speakers separately, but they are ungodly expensive- a beryllium cone and tweeter dome would be . However they are probably some of the best of the best.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Or buy a set of KEF LS50s and take the drivers out of them.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

thehatedguy said:


> Or buy a set of KEF LS50s and take the drivers out of them.


Exactly what I was thinking.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

These guys have the right idea. If you want to go the coax/point source route, may as well go all the way and get a coincident driver with that in mind.

The only real car audio speakers like that are from Morel and Illusion Audio. Both have a 5" coincident mid/tweet. But something like the Kef speakers mentioned are probably in a different league.


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## CrossFired (Jan 24, 2008)

I heard some 4" HAT drivers in the pillars on axis, crossed at 300, Mighty fine sounding!


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## tdgesq (Apr 16, 2006)

A small world indeed. I also listened to that car while it was in Idaho. I'm using the ScanSpeak 12m right now in a bmw 335xi. A very impressive driver, but it lacks the power handling of something like the dyns.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

I will take a look at the drivers you mentioned. I do see the benefit of a coincident, single point source. One draw back that I see- I am forced to use the on board tweeter. In addition, the voice coil heat from the mid may effect the tweeter. I typically audition about 5+ drivers before selecting the final one. I will be using TA, most definitely a PS-8. The system that I am working off of was the best I have ever heard, using B&W drivers (Earl's first set up with the smaller mids and 13"). I am starting from there, looking to improve in every way possible, but not straying from the general concept. ...still have mad love for that B&W sound, gonna take something magical to pull me away.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

tdgesq said:


> A small world indeed. I also listened to that car while it was in Idaho. I'm using the ScanSpeak 12m right now in a bmw 335xi. A very impressive driver, but it lacks the power handling of something like the dyns.


Wow it is a crazy small world!


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I dunno, I've never seen a bad review of either the KEF RS50 or the Blade...or of the TAD Reference One, or the smaller Reference monitor.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Thanks again, I will certainly consider. I do remember tuning a car years ago with some uni-q (spelling) and I was impressed.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

<- heard Earl's car in 96 or 97 (whichever was the last year IASCA Finals was in Greenville, SC) and before the last rebuild. 

You have your work cut out for you...I haven't heard a car like that since.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Precisely when that is my starting point. I have not heard a better car, or system for that matter, ever. Fortunately, I consider myself fairly knowledgeable, and have been installing high end systems for years. It also helps that Earl and I and friends, and he lives about 30 minutes from me. His advice on this build has been, and will be, the direction.
I was also at the 97 Finals in Greenville with a white Thunderbird SC- What car did you have?


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Damn, wish I had been there. In '97 I wasn't even old enough to drive LOL


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

...those were the days


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## probillygun (Oct 10, 2013)

mike, take a look at these;

Stage VI - Legatia SE - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems.

I am considering the carbon 4" for 150 to 2K range up front


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## hc_TK (Jan 18, 2006)

Don't waste your money on overpriced drivers. 
Try the Seas MCA12RC, i used these down to 80hz i my dash, and they are amazing. 
Nicely damped paper cone with super transient response and great dynamics. 
These are really easy to work with and to sound good. 
One of my favorite drivers.


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## probillygun (Oct 10, 2013)

hc_TK said:


> Don't waste your money on overpriced drivers.
> Try the Seas MCA12RC, i used these down to 80hz i my dash, and they are amazing.
> Nicely damped paper cone with super transient response and great dynamics.
> These are really easy to work with and to sound good.
> One of my favorite drivers.


I'm not a fan of a low QTS speaker like that for open baffle in the dash.


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## hc_TK (Jan 18, 2006)

probillygun said:


> I'm not a fan of a low QTS speaker like that for open baffle in the dash.


Why is that?
Mine is mounted with steel rings and the whole dash well dampened. 
These a crossed at 80hz 12db/oct and a second filter 24db/oct at 50hz. 
I have no issue with excursion or distortion.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

If the drivers call for it, I may do a small sealed enclosure. I personally prefer an IB set up


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

hc_TK said:


> Don't waste your money on overpriced drivers.
> Try the Seas MCA12RC, i used these down to 80hz i my dash, and they are amazing.
> Nicely damped paper cone with super transient response and great dynamics.
> These are really easy to work with and to sound good.
> One of my favorite drivers.


Overpriced might be the wrong word for some of them. Expensive, yes. Overpriced? Probably not, depends on a lot of things.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

BuickGN said:


> Overpriced might be the wrong word for some of them. Expensive, yes. Overpriced? Probably not, depends on a lot of things.


Agreed. One man's bargain driver may sound like a tin can to another and that extra $$$ can definitely be worth it for the right price. So far I haven't heard the detail I prefer in very many drivers save for Dyn Esotar, SEAS Excel, CSS WR125, Wavecor and Audible Physics Arian/H6. Hoping to try Accuton next but that is the difference between a pair of 6.5's or 3 pairs of finished bookshelves that would take my HT from 7.3 to 11.3 and a set for my home office...decisions, decisions


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## nigeDLS (Nov 5, 2011)

This is the midrange and tweeter set up in my E34, Dynaudio E430 and E110


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Total drool worthy...


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## mediumroast (Apr 18, 2011)

Just saw this thread and drooling over AK240 as source =p...

Lot of awesome mids mentioned here and I can't say if any of them can be the best for every song. To me each one has special unique qualities so you just have to audition and pick one you like most. Currently using the 801 mids but I still have my favs (focal audiom 6w/Be6, esotar430/650, scan12m)

GL with your awesome build!


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## deltasaurus (Apr 9, 2014)

I have always been enamored with Earl's original BMW. I was also competing when the car was debuted and fell in love with that car. Still think it is the most well balanced and natural car install I have ever heard! Big shoes to fill, but will be awesome to hear one day. Best wishes and keep us updated.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Certainly big shoes to fill! I going to take every precaution to ensure the system is the best I am capable of designing, building and tuning.


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## Precisionmike (Jun 15, 2014)

Another big thanks for all of the information regarding drivers. I really appreciate it. 
I will be staring a build thread very soon, and will keep it updated.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

Looking forward to it, sounds like it will be an epic build


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## petre (Jul 11, 2014)

Have a look on this speakers!
I use it, and they are great.
Sing from 120Hz to @10kHz, no coloration, natural sound, and best off all, is cheap.
Serie 5 5.8 MK II Mitteltner von Micro-Precision - CarAudio Store Online ShopMicro Precision 5.8, Micro Precision System, Micro Precision Lautsprecher, Micro Precision Hochtner, Micro Precision Mitteltner CarAUDIO, Hifi, Store, online, versand, katal


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## geogena (Jul 8, 2009)

My Scanspeak 12Ms are mated with Series 7 Micro Precision and best blends in my car at 360/12 to 18/12. Tried it as low as 90Hz.
but if money is not a problem check out the Micro Precision Z-Studio 100F or the Z-130 midrange.


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## tonny (Dec 4, 2010)

Indeed if you want the best off the best and some real resolution in the sound you need to get some micro precision z-studio drivers, there is noting better out there! 
Micro-Precision Audio


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## deltasaurus (Apr 9, 2014)

I don't know how the ZR-labs speakers would work in you application, but have been looking into them very seriously lately, as a very high end alternative to the normally high end mobile audio brands. XXX_busa, who is also a member of the forum is the only US dealer and could share some of his impressions on them with you.


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

thehatedguy said:


> It is just me...but if you were going to do a "coax" type setup, I would use a driver that is designed with that in mind...like a TAD from their new home speakers, KEF, or Tannoy.
> 
> I think it would be hard to beat the TAD 5.25 from their Reference One home speaker. You can get the speakers separately, but they are ungodly expensive- a beryllium cone and tweeter dome would be . However they are probably some of the best of the best.


Just copy what Erin did with his Civic.

Kef won't sell you the drivers that Erin has, without a serial number.

If you're industrious, you could probably get someone to provide you one.

I'm listening to Kefs right now, they're lovely.

I heard the megabuck TADs at the same audio show as the $1000 Kefs, and I didn't find the TADs to sound any better. The designer at TAD is a former Kef employee. Lots of cross-pollination there.


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