# iPad Pro, Audiofrog, Kia Optima - Build, tune, review



## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*Intro*

I first joined Diyma back in January after spending countless hours failing to diagnose my engine noise in one of my first installs. Car audio was just a small hobby of mine, and all I wanted was for my car to sound a little bit nicer. I was apprehensive about making an account and posting for the first time, but the feedback I received really helped me out and got me started on the path that I'm on today. I'm still learning everyday from the wealth of information on diyma and try to contribute as much as I can in return. 

Around May I decided to change careers and pursue car audio. I had the amazing opportunity to apprentice at the best car audio shop in my city (Musicar Northwest) for about 2 months over the summer. I learned something new every day from the informative, helpful, and extremely skilled mentors there. Unfortunately, I was struggling to be productive for the company, given my lack of experience, so I was eventually let go of. Nevertheless, being exposed to such a high level early on has set the standard that I will strive to reach one day.

Here is my build log thread, which is the culmination of what I've learned from Diyma and Musicar over the past several months. All the work shown here was done in my driveway. This build log would be twice as long if I included all the failing/experimentation that I did. I've only used a router once or twice before this so I was learning as I was building. All pics were taken with my Galaxy S7 and Note 9. Hope you guys enjoy and feel free to ask me anything in the comments or PM me. 

*Build is in a 2015 Kia Optima Hybrid:*










*Total Build Time: Approximately 300-400 hours *

*Table of Contents*
1) Equipment list
2) iPad Pro integration
3) Door modification and Midrange/Tweeter mounting
4) Grill cover fabrication 
5) Passenger Footwell Subwoofer Enclosure
6) Helix Director Mounting
7) Overall system picture
8) Things that don't have pictures
9) Tuning and Measurements 
10) Subjective review 
11) Future Plans

*1) Equipment list *
Source unit =	iPad Pro 12.9". Mainly using Spotify and some 24bit FLAC in VLC Media Player 
Processor =	Helix DSP Pro MKII with Helix Director Remote
Midrange and Midbass Amp = Alpine PDX-F6 (150W RMS x 4)
Tweeter and Rear Amp =	Alpine PDX-F4 (100W RMS x 4)
Subwoofer Amp = Alpine PDX-M6 (600W RMS x 1)
Tweeters =	Audiofrog GB10
Midrange =	Audiofrog GB25
Midbass = Audiofrog GB60
Rears = Audiofrog GS62 coaxial
Subwoofer =	Audiofrog GB10D4

*2) iPad Pro Integration* 

Factory radio and climate controls:









This was my first attempt at mounting the iPad. This was a simple floating mount with magnets. I ran with this style for many months until I decided to integrate the iPad into the dash itself. Let the cutting begin!










I pulled out the climate controls and factory radio, then cut the rectangular opening just large enough to overlap the iPad. Body filler was used to bridge the empty space between the dash and the iPad. Unfortunately, I began cutting up my dash before I ever had the idea to start a build log, so the only picture I had was the end result of attempt number 2:










I moved the climate controls into my center console storage tray. This involved me lengthening the wiring harness through the center console. This took 160 ft of primary wire and 82 solder joints. Thankfully it worked perfectly and helped me learn how each wire communicates with the climate control brain in the car. 


















My second attempt at mounting was an improvement, but I was still looking for more of a factory fit and finish. I decided to expand the opening slightly and realign the edges to be parallel with the iPad screen. I then began fabricating a trim bezel, starting with thinly routed strips of 1/8 inch acrylic:


















I taped off the iPad and secured the acrylic in place:










I bridged the gap between the face of the iPad and the dash with Rage Gold body filler:










Testing fitment:










I then heat bent additional strips of acrylic to match the curves of the unevenly shaped dash and secured them in place. This was one of the main reasons I chose to use acrylic over MDF (it is also much less prone to snapping in half when thin):










Filled the gap again:


















Used a piece of 0.22inch acrylic as the bottom wall to close off the rectangular frame into shape:










Time to finish and SAND for a hours on end:










Wrapping the side panel pieces in factory matching leather vinyl:










Rough test fit:










Taped off the bottom edge to fill in the large gap:


















Smoothed, sanded, and painted the filler piece. Now there is a flat surface for the bezel to rest on:










After hours of sanding and finishing, the final product:










The steering wheel controls were integrated into the iPad by programming different resistance values as keystrokes on a USB keyboard module. The module was connected to the iPad using the USB Camera Connector kit from Apple. This gave me volume up/down, Track forward/back, Play/Pause, Mute, and Home button. This also allowed me to use the Helix HEC USB addon and connect my iPad directly to my Helix DSP via USB.

Here I cleaned up the wiring behind the iPad, wrapping most wires in TESA cloth tape and hiding them away:










Looks like there's TONS of room for a sealed enclosure for a dedicated 6.5in midbass driver in the future when I experiment with center channel upmixing/surround. Measures about 15in x 8in x 8in. Not having a double din radio or climate control module really frees up the space in there.

More in the next post.


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*3) Door modification and Tweeter/Midrange mounting*

Previously, I made custom midrange pods in the sail panel, and tweeters in separate housings parallel to the window. While I was content with the build quality, the acoustical performance of this install was quite literally, screaming for change. There was a harsh reflection off of the driver's side window that drilled into my left ear. I couldn't hear the reflection anymore after moving my head 2 inches over, so I knew it was a problem with the physical location of the midrange. No matter what I tried, I couldn't EQ the shrill sound out, so I had no choice but to move the drivers. The tweeters, also being almost 90 degrees off axis, rolled off too much around 12k+. Pics of my previous build:


























While planning my new mounting locations, I aimed to minimize reflections off the windows, windshield, and dash. Another goal was to achieve a wider stage, which meant physically moving the drivers wider. What I came up with was feasible, but demanded some serious modification of my door panel and inner door skin. 
Stock door panel:










I wanted to mount my drivers high on my door panels, just under the window so that there is virtually no reflection off the same side window. This also placed the drivers relatively far away from the dash/windshield, minimizing the effect of early reflections compared to dash mounted/a pillar installations. I also tested the acoustics at different locations and came up with these plots. Crossovers and levels were kept constant between the measurements. Blue was the old sail panel measurement and red is the new door panel measurement:










The only problem was, the door handle was directly where I wanted to mount the midrange. This was likely the hardest part of my entire build. I tackled the problem head on, starting with removing off the door handle assembly and making a MDF router template around it:










Door handle removed:










I rough cut a hole for the new door handle location and secured the MDF template in preparation for routing:










I removed my router from the table and freehand routed it with a flush trim bit. Don't mind the frayed fabric, the plastic itself was cut quite clean:


























Test fitting door handle










I then made a template for the trim bezel which will hide the frayed fabric and surround the door handle










I aligned the door handle with screws to the inner door skin and test fitted










The levers that operate the opening latch and locking mechanism were just thick pieces of steel wire. I cut off the excess wire length and soldered the wires back together. This part turned out ugly, but it was functional.










Trim piece made of 1/8in acrylic. Acrylic was chosen so that I could heat bend them onto the curvature of the door. 










Test fitting










Painted the trim bezel in metallic silver (may change it in the future to flat black)










Permanently secured the trim bezel to the door










Relocation of the door handle was completed and fully functional.

Midrange and Tweeter mounting

A sealed pod made of a 2.5inch PVC end cap was made for the midrange, improving the low end efficiency compared to infinite baffle 










In order to recess the midrange pod deep enough into the door panel, I painstakingly cut a hole out of the inner door skin sheet metal, granting me an additional half inch of depth. 










GB25 mounted:










The GB10 tweeter was angled almost on axis and secured using weather stripping caulk and dabs of CA glue (survives door slams just fine). I may think of a more secure mounting method with screws later on. As always, quick disconnects were soldered on for easy removal in the future.


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*4) Grill Cover Fabrication*

The objective of these grills were to protect the midrange/tweeter while also aiding in blending to the design of the door panel. I started with cutting out a rough shape over the opening. 










I then created an MDF template for the grill










An inside plug piece was made in preparation for grill mesh shaping










Crushing cage assembled (no hydraulic press here)










I screwed the corners together with an impact driver in order to crush the mesh into shape










I then added a 1/4 inch rabbet to the inner edge of the trim bezel










Test fitting the formed mesh inside the trim










My door panel has a significant curvature to it, so I copied this curvature by filling with body filler


































After a heavy sanding session late into the night










Testing fitting the curved grill trim onto the door panel










I flush trimmed these cover pieces made of 1/8in acrylic










What the whole assembly should look like


















Taped off the grill mesh










High build primer coat










Followed by a coat of black paint










After applying a special painting technique I picked up from Musicar, which yields a subtly grainy, yet smooth texture:


















Peeling the tape off was satisfying










Finished product


























Completed door panels with door handle relocation and custom speaker mounting


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

Cool stuff. Looking forward to seeing more.


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*5) Passenger Footwell Subwoofer Enclosure*

Even though I've achieved up front bass with a trunk mounted subwoofer, I wanted to experiment with something a bit different. The GB10 sub was the perfect choice due to its minimal airspace requirements and great low frequency extension. I had originally done a fiberglass enclosure, but it was built too poorly and eventually ditched. I decided to go another route: Half inch MDF pieces fit like a 3D puzzle.
I began by roughly estimating the sections I would need using cardboard










Once satisfied, I transferred the shapes onto 1/2in MDF










Jigsawed them out










Secured to the footwell with Gorilla tape










I temporarily welded the pieces together with some instant cure spray, dowels, and CA glue, then CAREFULLY pulled the shell out of the footwell










Comparison between my old and new enclosure










Backside of the shell










Mixing some fiberglass reinforced body filler to seal and strengthen the joints between each piece of MDF. I wanted to keep this enclosure 100% fiberglass free just to try something new.










Sealed joints with the filler glass










Smaller pieces of MDF were cut to fill in the large gaps. Then masked off from the inside to prevent the filler from dripping through.










All joints sealed. The enclosure was already rock solid and much heavier than my fiberglass enclosure.










The front face was made of 3/4in MDF










A 1/4in radius roundover was added so that the enclosure would slide in and out easily and not catch sharp corners










Front face attached










Test fitting the enclosure










Used threaded rivnuts to secure the subwoofer in


















Front face wrapped and subwoofer wired










Sub mounted. JL Audio 10in generic grill used. I verified that the enclosure was air tight.










I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. The net airspace was approximately 0.6 ft3, per the Audiofrog manual. Dense closed cell foam was placed around the enclosure to reduce vibration transfer. Frequency response measurements will be posted later in the build log.










*6) Helix Director mounting*

This was one of the first things I did. I simply ran the cable up to the sunglass holder and used double sided velcro tape to hold the director in place. This will be improved upon in the future or relocated lower for easier access. The sunglass holder still functions normally and allows me to hide the director when not in use. 


















*7) Overall system picture*

Full shot of the car from the backseat




























*8) Things that don't have pictures*

I have about 80 sq ft of Second Skin Damplifier Pro (CLD) tiles spread out through all 4 doors (outer door skin and door panel), the entire floor, the trunk, and rear deck. I also have Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro along both footwells and the entire floor. 
The amplifiers and DSP mounting do not have any pictures for now. They are just stacked on top of each other (PDX series can stack). For now they will remain functional and hidden from sight. My trunk looks 100% factory at the moment. 
The GB60 midbass and GS62 coaxials are simply mounted in the factory locations with backwave dampeners and a gasketing material to create an airtight seal. 
Changing out the cheapo factory Kia tires to "reduced noise" aftermarket tires provided drastic road noise reduction on par with all the sound treatment (CLD/MLV). Even at highway speeds, I can now maintain an acceptable level of SQ due to the minimized road noise compared to stock. If I had to quantify it: 85% as good compared to parked.

*9) Tuning and Measurements*

All measurements were taken with a figure 8 pattern at each ear for 30 averages each playing pink noise generated by REW. I exported JBL target curves with Jazzi's tuning companion. Crossover points were 80Hz, 400Hz, and 4000Hz. I then optimized my levels and electronic crossover settings in order to closely match the crossover slopes acoustically. Raw measurements with no EQ applied:










After a round of Auto EQ with REW, and some manual adjustments, I took another measurement of each driver. The Subwoofer and Midbass responded excellently to EQ, unlike the Midrange. You can see some significant peaks and dips between 800 Hz - 3000 Hz.










After a second round of fine tuning, I ended up with these measurements. I used up all 30 parametric EQ bands on my midrange channels in order to achieve these curves. Measuring in 1/48 octave resolution revealed some heavy comb filtering in my midrange, which may be caused by the grill cover partially covering the cone area and causing early reflections. Something to investigate further. 
As close to the target as I could possibly get:










Afterwards, I added a +3db shelf filter with a Q of 1 below 160Hz in order to get some more midbass impact. I raised the subwoofer level equally in order to maintain the 80Hz crossover point. I also added in some rear fill on the GS62's. Crossed over at 300 Hz and 3000Hz with 12db/octave Linkwitz filters. Differential rear fill was applied (L-R) and the channels were delayed by about 20ms.
The entire left side was attenuated by 5-6db until the center image was placed center on the dash. I verified my imaging with absolute phase clicks, 31 band pink noise bursts, and the seven snare drum hit track. Everything seemed spot on, so it was time to listen to some music!

*10) Subjective Review*

After many sessions of tuning, I was most happy with the sound of my current tune. The distance of the center image was perceived to be much further than the physical distance to my speakers. The left side midrange was only 35 inches away from the listening position, but the illusionary center image was at the edge where my dash met the windshield. The snare drum hits in the intro of Rosanna by Toto, Billie Jean by Michael Jackson, and Simple Man by Lynard Skynyrd sounded like the drummer was 20-30 feet away. The natural reverb caused by the recording environment was reproduced very well. I noticed that rear fill will only amplify ambient sounds and room size cues only if they are there to begin with. Flat recordings in studio rooms do not sound any different with rear fill. However, songs with lots of ambient information are significantly "bigger sounding" with rear fill active.

The best way that I can describe the tonality would be: flat and neutral (audiophile-like). Nothing stood out as too bright or too warm. All the fine details in the music were expressed with an accuracy and sound separation that rivals my KEF home audio set. I did add in some extra midbass and sub, but the impact was still tight, clean, and anchored in the center. The subwoofer blended seamlessly with my midbass drivers and provided nice linear output to about 35hz, where it began to audibly roll off, despite what the RTA showed. 
Some weak points of the system would be in the 1k to 3k midrange, and also in the 5k+ treble. I will play around with different mounting options in order to address the diffractions/reflections off the grill. Other than that, I'm happy with how it sounds, which is all that really matters in the end.

*11) Future Plans*

- Add in a sealed midbass enclosure and tweeter (likely GB60 and GB15) as a center channel once the Helix DSP Pro MKIII or Audiofrog DSP are released
- Create a custom beauty panel with edge lit acrylic once I get my amp mounting sorted out
- Move the Helix Director lower, under the iPad for easier access to volume/preset control
- Focus on becoming an actual installer so I can continue learning and improving in a professional setting

If you made it to the end, thank you for reading my long thread! Feel free to ask questions or comment on how I can improve my build. PMs are welcome too.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Simply awesome. I really like the footwell sub idea, I never thought of using that space. Thanks for posting this!


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## m3gunner (Aug 6, 2008)

Wow... that's simply a lot of work and came out beautifully... Congratulations!


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## reithi (Mar 29, 2012)

Pretty impressive build........I see another Musicar Northwest down the road.


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## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

I wish I had the nuts and the skill to cut my car up like that. Great install.


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## gw2405 (Jul 4, 2017)

Terrific build, great work!

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I have to say you have tenacity and talent so I think you will do well in your car audio venture. There is no way I would have ever attempted to cut my dash or doors the way you tackled it. 

Keep up the good work.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Im impressed


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Thanks for the support everyone! I've got some ideas bouncing around for the next project so stay tuned. :idea3:


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## lincoln88 (Sep 24, 2016)

Great work man.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dude... your off your ****ing rocker. Love it. You have a very bright future. I cant believe you routed those strips of acrylic. Talk about butthole pucker..

seriously though, Your getting good very fast.


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

Looks really good. Nice to see another Ipad install. Which Car Toys are you working at


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Dude... your off your ****ing rocker. Love it. You have a very bright future. I cant believe you routed those strips of acrylic. Talk about butthole pucker..
> 
> seriously though, Your getting good very fast.


I snapped one too many MDF templates in the process... Thanks for the encouragement, it means a lot man.



Hammer1 said:


> Looks really good. Nice to see another Ipad install. Which Car Toys are you working at


I'm down in tigard off 217/highway 99. Let me know if you ever wanna come by and chat. I've already met with another local diyma member last week.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## almatias (Nov 16, 2012)

Great work!!!


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

Great work!! I really like how the doors turned out.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The first door-handle-relocation I have ever seen!! Nice work across the board, dude! Don't stop...


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> The first door-handle-relocation I have ever seen!! Nice work across the board, dude! Don't stop...


Yeah it's funny when I reach for the handle when it's dark and I realize that I moved it. Took a month to get used to. 

You encouraged me in my thread when I first started this so thanks.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Serieus (May 27, 2011)

this is really cool, i'd love to hear it sometime. i use to live about 10 minutes away from your car toys location, but moved a couple of months ago, i'm about 45 mins north of portland on highway 30 now. i'll send a pm when i have some free time


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Serieus said:


> this is really cool, i'd love to hear it sometime. i use to live about 10 minutes away from your car toys location, but moved a couple of months ago, i'm about 45 mins north of portland on highway 30 now. i'll send a pm when i have some free time


Nice to see another local. Me and another member are planning on doing some local get togethers. Lemme know when you're free.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## cycleguy (Feb 10, 2018)

Beautiful install very high standard of work


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## carlosg_313 (May 9, 2016)

I have a 16 optima hybrid, and even though i have the skills and knowledge to do what you did (except the ipad steering wheel integration, that is bad ass) ill never have the balls to do what you did. My hats goes off to you. I live in socal and wish i can just meet up to hear your vehicle(used to run A.F. GS 2 way components when first i got into SQ). Great job you did!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

carlosg_313 said:


> I have a 16 optima hybrid, and even though i have the skills and knowledge to do what you did (except the ipad steering wheel integration, that is bad ass) ill never have the balls to do what you did. My hats goes off to you. I live in socal and wish i can just meet up to hear your vehicle(used to run A.F. GS 2 way components when first i got into SQ). Great job you did!


Appreciate the comment Carlos! I honestly don't get scared when I'm doing any of this. I daydream about my builds so much that it's basically reality waiting to happen. Whether it's irreversibly modifying the car or fabricating something I've never seen made before. It's a mixture of stubbornness and enthusiasm. I've been held back from installing at every shop I've worked at because of how new I am, and while it's been getting on my nerves, I won't let it stop me from improving on my own. /endrant 

On that note, I've been adding some new things to my install on my days off. It turned out pretty good so stay tuned! :surprised:


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

I love the midbass location, must lend for some great imaging with the lower frequencies being away from the floor.


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## Lyons238 (May 19, 2016)

a lot of work went into this and i applaud you for that. but damn did you hack this car up. install seems very intrusive and for being so intrusive, the finish work is mediocre. only way i would ever hack my car up like this is if the end result would be perfect, looking like a machine made it. i can't stand sloppy fabrication.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Lyons238 said:


> a lot of work went into this and i applaud you for that. but damn did you hack this car up. install seems very intrusive and for being so intrusive, the finish work is mediocre. only way i would ever hack my car up like this is if the end result would be perfect, looking like a machine made it. i can't stand sloppy fabrication.


Wheres your work?

I've seen and heard this car in person and there was only one or two small things I'd nitpick. Its all very well done for the amount of experience and time he put into it. He's a lot newer than many people on here and his work is pretty great. He's a fast learner. I guarantee his next install.. whenever that is  ;will be leagues better.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Lyons238 said:


> a lot of work went into this and i applaud you for that. but damn did you hack this car up. install seems very intrusive and for being so intrusive, the finish work is mediocre. only way i would ever hack my car up like this is if the end result would be perfect, looking like a machine made it. i can't stand sloppy fabrication.


This was my first attempt at making all of these things. Mostly just a learning experience and challenge. I'm not trying to meet anyone's standards. The dash pieces that I cut up are replaceable for about $50 (I checked before I started), so I'm not too worried. The door panels may be more expensive to replace, but the gain in acoustic performance was worth the cost to me. Whether you think so is your opinion.

I could simply redo any part of this installation and refinish it, but the investment in time isnt worth it to me. If I didn't work full time and have other responsibilities, maybe I'd sit in my driveway for a extra month fabricating to your "standards". I'm happy with it for now.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Lyons238 (May 19, 2016)

mattkim1337 said:


> This was my first attempt at making all of these things. Mostly just a learning experience and challenge. I'm not trying to meet anyone's standards. The dash pieces that I cut up are replaceable for about $50 (I checked before I started), so I'm not too worried. The door panels may be more expensive to replace, but the gain in acoustic performance was worth the cost to me. Whether you think so is your opinion.
> 
> I could simply redo any part of this installation and refinish it, but the investment in time isnt worth it to me. If I didn't work full time and have other responsibilities, maybe I'd sit in my driveway for a extra month fabricating to your "standards". I'm happy with it for now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


i didn't mean to speak negatively about it. trust me i know it is a ton of work that's why i don't attempt more involved installs like this. if i had all the tools, workspace, and time i would definitely do so. i end up with more subtle installs or i outsource the more difficult fabrication.

definitely good on you for your first go around. definitely not easy to do.


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Great work Matt! I'd love to hear this sometime!


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

mfenske said:


> Great work Matt! I'd love to hear this sometime!


Few of us are meeting weekend after next. You should come

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

mfenske said:


> Great work Matt! I'd love to hear this sometime!


Some of us in the area are planning a get together next weekend. Youre welcomed to join in. It's in this thread: 

SQ Events in the Pacific NW https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401562

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Center Channel Shenanigans!

Hey guys, I'm back with the next iteration of my build log. I've been wanting to attempt an upmixed audio system for a while now, and recently acquired the necessary equipment through DIYMA classifieds. All the work was done in my driveway, either after coming home from work, or on a day off. I've admittedly made some compromises due to time and weather constraints, allocating my attention to areas where I believed would most effectively impact the build. Hence, the finishing work on some parts is non-existent. Nevertheless, I'm here to share my successes and failures with this project. Thanks for the support from my previous posts. Hope you enjoy this!

*GB60 sealed enclosure fabrication and mounting*

The main purpose of building this sealed enclosure was to isolate the backwave of the driver, as keeping the backwave from seeping through the cracks in my dash (infinite baffle) would be impossible. I was also hoping to get better midbass response, but more on that later. 

I began by marking the exact center of my dash with some masking tape:










I then marked the approximate mounting locations of the GB15 and GB60 with a sharpie:










In order to fit the supplied trim ring of the GB60, I created a template that I will use to mark the cutout hole in my dash: 










Everything aligned and centered:










Top view:










My router wouldn't fit from neither the top or bottom, so I resorted to my knife and a slow hand... There was no way to fit a giant hole saw either.










After peeling the top layer of vinyl off:










There was still a 1/8th inch thick layer of ABS that my knife had trouble cutting through. I solved this by heating the blade of my knife with a heat gun and sliced through the ABS quite easily. The resulting hole:










Test fitment of the chrome trim ring:










I opted to apply Damplifier Pro (CLD) to the bottom of the ABS cutout:










Now it was time to start fabricating the midbass enclosure. I avoided making a fiberglass mold that conformed to the edges because the opening of the dash would be smaller than the mold, making it impossible to remove:










I used 1/4 inch MDF in this case, as the shape will be very rigid due to the complex angles of the enclosure. I had to build the enclosure thinner and shorter than the actual space so that I could remove it in the future:










Adding more pieces:










Taking shape:



















Test fitting the GB60:










Once the shell was strong enough to handle, I removed it from the dash:










I patched in the larger openings with more pieces of MDF, then sealed the rest with fiberglass reinforced body filler. In the interest of time, I did zero finishing work:



















Quick GB60 test fit:










I added some mounting brackets that would mate with the factory screw points, where the OEM radio used to screw in. I also poured a mixture of fiberglass resin and body filler into the enclosure in order to seal off any pinholes that I missed previously. Finally, a few coats of black paint were added:



















The chrome trim for the GB60 caused some distracting reflections off the windshield when I drove past street lamps, so I was forced to paint it flat black:


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*Center Tweeter Pod Fabrication and Mounting*

The GB15 needed a pod with a opening diameter of 2 inches. I had to keep the outer diameter as small as possible, due to the limited space between the windshield and the dash. Since I didn't have the tools to fabricate anything thin and rigid enough for this application, I picked up a 2 inch PVC coupler at Home Depot and carved out the opening slightly larger with a 2inch hole saw. The wall thickness ended up being about a 1/16th inch.

I wrapped the pod in OEM matching leather vinyl:










Slipped right in!



















In order to maintain the same black theme as the GB60 trim ring, I taped off the entire tweeter and painted the GB15 trim ring black as well:



















I modified the supplied mounting hardware from the GB15 to hold the tweeter in place and also used a thin circle of acrylic to seal off the backside:










The little guy is looking fresh:










I then routed the speaker wires through the dash through a small slit:










Attached each piece in order and secured the tweeter into the pod:










I used a small piece of foam to shim the tweeter to point slightly upward. The pod is held in place with some mechanics wire, twisted below the dash. I will make a more refined mounting solution when I have the time, but this got the job done.










I added a strip of closed cell weather stripping around the GB60, just barely avoiding the surround. Same idea as FAST rings in a door midbass application:










After adding the grill, the black themed GB15 + GB60 center channel was complete:



















Overall:


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*Amplifier/DSP Installation and Signal Routing Explanation*

The upmixing DSP that I chose to use was the JBL MS8 (Logic7). Most of the crossover and equalization duties were handled by the existing Helix DSP Pro MKII. I switch out my 4 channel Alpine PDX-F4 with a Zapco Z-150.6LX in order to accommodate the extra two center channels, and hopefully gain SQ with a class A/B amp. 

*A summary of wiring and materials:*
3 Power wires (4ga), 1 Power wire (12ga), and 2 Power wires (18ga).
3 Ground wires (4ga), 1 Ground wire (12ga), and 2 Ground wires (18ga).
5 remote turn on wires (blue)
11 sets of speaker wires
16 RCA cables
5 fuse holders and fuses (within 6 inches of battery)
Interior TESA tape
Zip ties
Heat shrink tubing



*Signal routing*
The MS8 was fed a stereo L/R signal from the iPad Pro via a small USB DAC I had laying around (Audioquest Dragonfly Red). The outputs of the MS8 were upmixed to Center, Front Left, Front Right, Side Left, Side Right, and Sub. Processing was turned off, as I ended up with a better tune manually with the Helix, REW, and a Dayton UMM-6. The Helix was fed via its analog inputs, and provided crossovers and EQ between the GB60/GB25/GB10 (Front sides) and the GB60/GB15 (Center). 

*Installation:*

Labeling some of the RCAs:










The 6 channel Zapco amp was mounted upside-down. Blocks of MDF were bolted to the OEM rails. I added threaded inserts, then painstakingly kept the 20 pound amp lifted while screwing it in.. RCA side:










Speaker and Power connection side:










Trunk view:










MS8, Helix, and Alpine amps from the trunk view:










Cabin view:





































This was my first attempt at clean wiring for my DSPs and amps. It was a juggle between pulling out my messy old wiring and recycling speaker wire from an install a year ago. Every connection was labeled so I wouldn't mix signals and accidently blow a tweeter. 

*Troubleshooting:*

I was disappointed when I turned the whole system on for the first time. The display for the MS8 wasn't turning on. After further examination of the display cable, I found that the tip was broken off:










The missing tip was likely the culprit... I opened up the display and examined the plug connector. Using a digital multimeter to test continuity, I mapped out which connection points correlated to each wire color:










I then did the same test on the display cable and mapped the colors:










I split the cable open and hardwired the missing connection directly into the board inside the display. Huge relief when I turned the system on again:










It was my first time ever messing with small electronic terminals, so it was a miracle that it worked out.

*"The Null" from the depths of Hell*

After all my work building the sealed midbass enclosure (about 4L volume), the measured response at the listening position was the worst I had ever seen in a midbass. This is with an electrical HPF of 80Hz @ 24db and LPF at 2k @24db, no EQ applied:










I did some listening tests with tone generators and music, and the massive null from 70-150hz was definitely audible. It became whisper quiet, especially around 80hz. All the midbass was audibly missing, even though I could FEEL cone moving air with my hand hovering over the driver. The main reason I chose the GB60 in the center was to achieve "real" upfront bass, but the acoustics of my car obviously made it obsolete. I measured the response of the driver about 6inches away from it and it look almost exactly like the graph in the manual, so I don't believe the enclosure size was the problem. I could've gotten away with a GB40 in a much smaller enclosure and had the same natural rolloff, but it's too late now. It was a good learning experience nonetheless... I may try to port the enclosure and tune it to 80hz, but that would be more of a brute force method to fight the room acoustics. *Any and all solutions or suggestions are welcomed!*

The only workaround that I had was to cross the subwoofer much higher. I experimented with crossover points and landed at 125hz for the subwoofer, and 150hz for the center. Since the level of the subwoofer was +10db higher, it provided a nice blend into the upper midbass. I still maintained the illusion of "up front bass", but I would have like the midbass to handle 80hz. OH WELL ***shrugs***

*The Multiseat Experience*

I have to say, even without time alignment, both front seats image fairly well despite my limited tuning experience with multiseat systems. The imaging is obviously not on par with a solid one seat stereo tune, as the left of center and right of center information is more diffuse and smeared with the two seat tune. However, the center, left and right imaged spot on, as well as bass impact up front, thanks to the front mounted GB10 sub, which shares a very similar path length as the center midbass driver. Time alignment helps imaging for sure, but taking it away is less detrimental compared to a stereo tune. The rears provide a nice sense of space without interfering with the front stage. Sitting in the backseats has an echo/ambiance feeling like sitting in a large concert hall. I'll keep playing with it and report back on other things that I discover. If anyone has multiseat tuning tips, please let me know!

Thanks for reading about my driveway shenanigans. Special thanks to select DIYMA members for the equipment and Andy for his informative posts about upmixers and multiseat stereo. This was a fun project to tackle. My next plans will probably be building some sail panel tweeter pods for the GB10 and more a OEM looking mounting solution for the GB25. Stay tuned! Always feel free to leave a question or comment.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

This build is brilliant Matt! Once all tuned, I bet this car is a 2-seat killer!


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Attention to detail is killer. Good job.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Wow you sir are amazing! Love your work!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

How to you like the AMP?


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

AVIDEDTR said:


> How to you like the AMP?


It's been great so far. Sounds pretty good with no EQ applied. Just need to dial in the tune further now.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Great, it's replacement on my end is 1/2 the power - so I kinda miss the headroom.


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## KillerBox (Jan 7, 2011)

Where in your front door are the GB60s located?

Also, I believe that Andy has said in the past that you should aim the center channel speakers directly up at the windshield and not directly into the vehicle.


Andy Tip:

"If you do a front 3-way, use separate channels for the midbass and a pair of channels for mids and tweeters, together with their own crossovers (passive or active). 

If you do that, cross the midbass as high as you can stand--1k works well so long as they are 6" or smaller. Our ears aren't good at determining the location of sounds from 1k to 3k, and above 3k, level is the most important criterion. 

This arrangement provides accurate delay measurements and settings for the midbass and will fix the mids and tweeters using EQ.

Since you'll be using a center speaker, the steering and that speaker will reduce the importance of time alignment for frequencies above the center-channel's cutoff and TA will fix it for lower frequencies using the midbass in the doors."


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

KillerBox said:


> Where in your front door are the GB60s located?
> 
> Also, I believe that Andy has said in the past that you should aim the center channel speakers directly up at the windshield and not directly into the vehicle.
> 
> ...


The gb60s are directly below the midrange and tweets. I can't really time align the midbass doing a 2 seat tune, unless you can use all pass filters, which I don't know how to do. My main problem is the center midbass null. It's not a limitation of the gb60, but the environment/listening position. I wouldn't need to rely on the door midbass/subs if it worked as expected... thanks for the tip!









Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## bbusch (Mar 17, 2018)

Well done my man, this is what diyma is all about. Thanks for sharing your progress. Any feedback I read was constructive criticism so don't take it wrong. 


I too find your project low and to the left but impressed with your skills this early on in the game. I can relate with being slow.. I tend to take my time and could never make a living working in a audio shop as an installer. That gives me spine issues just thinking about it. If I could find a good audio shop to take me on as a 'Project Only' installer and not feel too rushed it might be fun otherwise I would find it too frustrating to be pushed along. Positive attitude, solid health and good mentors it might be worth the shot.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Much respect for your brave endeavor here :thumbsup: … Subscribed


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## Focused4door (Aug 15, 2015)

If you want to burn some time, build a pair of really flat long boxes for the left and right midbass. Try that box in the kicks and at the dash corners and see if the null goes away for either location.

You already cut the dash so might as well cut it more and put the left and right midbass in the dash too, but test first. 

I am also curious if you had the GB60 center firing forward if it would have a null, but that isn't as easy of a test to try out easily. Would really need a 3 way center at that point, and might also rattle the tablet.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Focused4door said:


> If you want to burn some time, build a pair of really flat long boxes for the left and right midbass. Try that box in the kicks and at the dash corners and see if the null goes away for either location.
> 
> You already cut the dash so might as well cut it more and put the left and right midbass in the dash too, but test first.
> 
> I am also curious if you had the GB60 center firing forward if it would have a null, but that isn't as easy of a test to try out easily. Would really need a 3 way center at that point, and might also rattle the tablet.


I always thought that'd be pretty great. Sealed 6.5 in a box in the middle. A midrange and a tweet directly above it. Straight up a vertical mid channel. It'd have the exact same response in both seats vs the top of the dash option where the instrument hump changes the driver side. 

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Focused4door said:


> If you want to burn some time, build a pair of really flat long boxes for the left and right midbass. Try that box in the kicks and at the dash corners and see if the null goes away for either location.
> 
> You already cut the dash so might as well cut it more and put the left and right midbass in the dash too, but test first.
> 
> I am also curious if you had the GB60 center firing forward if it would have a null, but that isn't as easy of a test to try out easily. Would really need a 3 way center at that point, and might also rattle the tablet.


The door speakers don't have a null like the center does. They measure perfectly to the target curve with a 80hz crossover. I've been told that angling the center midbass won't help because it plays omnidirectionally below beaming. The null is probably an out of phase reflection off the side walls (which are exactly the same distance from the center) that affects those frequencies due to their wavelengths. I don't know anymore. I might just live with it, unless anyone else has ideas. Thanks for the suggestion.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

mattkim1337 said:


> The door speakers don't have a null like the center does. They measure perfectly to the target curve with a 80hz crossover. I've been told that angling the center midbass won't help because it plays omnidirectionally below beaming. The null is probably an out of phase reflection off the side walls (which are exactly the same distance from the center) that affects those frequencies due to their wavelengths. I don't know anymore. I might just live with it, unless anyone else has ideas. Thanks for the suggestion.


Roll down the window. Remeasure. That should tell you if your theory is correct.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

I will have the backseats taken out, pop the trunk, and open all 4 doors to "remove" the room boundaries and see how my measurements differ. Tomorrow is my first day off since Black Friday, so I'll give it a shot then.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

mattkim1337 said:


> I will have the backseats taken out, pop the trunk, and open all 4 doors to "remove" the room boundaries and see how my measurements differ. Tomorrow is my first day off since Black Friday, so I'll give it a shot then.


One at a time. You'll be surprised how much even a cracked window can change things drastically.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

mattkim1337 said:


> The null is probably an out of phase reflection off the side walls (which are exactly the same distance from the center) that affects those frequencies due to their wavelengths. I don't know anymore. I might just live with it, unless anyone else has ideas. Thanks for the suggestion.


Here are some posts I dug up when I was researching this subject last year. I realize they refer to mids/domes & windshields but I think the information is still relevent here:



Patrick Bateman said:


> You can predict what frequency is going to be a problem. Here's how you do it.
> 
> #1 - figure out where the mid will fit
> #2 - measure the distance to the windshield
> ...



And this is an old ECA post with lots of math in it:
Elite Car Audio : Car Audio Forum - Dashboard Domes & Reflection Combs


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## KillerBox (Jan 7, 2011)

In case this helps you any?

Car Audio Center Channel - Harmon Karmon Shively angle of the dangle


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

In order for that equation (13500 / distance / 4) to explain the 80hz null, my midbass would need to be 42 inches away from the windshield, which is obviously too much. It's around 6-7 inches away. Also, the null at 80hz doesn't look like a comb filter, as it covers over an entire octave (60-150hz). 

Killerbox, I've seen that Harman guide before, but I don't think I have enough room to mount the GB15 tweeter upfiring, as I measured the work area for forward firing. The midbass also clears the Shively criteria so I don't see a problem there. 

I'm about to go measure with the windows/doors open. I will report back. Thanks all.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

mattkim1337 said:


> In order for that equation (13500 / distance / 4) to explain the 80hz null, my midbass would need to be 42 inches away from the windshield, which is obviously too much. It's around 6-7 inches away. Also, the null at 80hz doesn't look like a comb filter, as it covers over an entire octave (60-150hz).


Yeah, I didn't see a comb and wasn't thinking it was the windshield... but you mentioned about reflections off the side windows so thought perhaps that equation may work there - 42" from the side window doesn't seem unreal.


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Welcome to my third and final addition to my build log. This took between 50-100 hours (who's counting anyways) to complete. The overall objective was to remount the GB10 and GB25 in a closer to OEM and acoustically favorable manner. Another DSP and amp were also added to the mix in order to provide EQ and level control capabilities to the side and rear surround speakers (Logic7). Finally, I added some Audiofrog GS42 coaxial speakers to the rear deck, making my system a true 7.1 setup. This will likely conclude the build in my current car, as I'm happy with everything the way it turned out. I will be as detailed was possible on each step to explain what I did and why. Without further ado, enjoy!

*Sail Panel Tweeter Pod Fabrication*

Using 2 1/4 inch and 1 3/4 inch holesaws, a simple MDF ring template was made:










The ring was copied and extended onto another piece of MDF to create a teardrop shaped baffle:










The MDF template was transferred to 1/4 inch acrylic twice, sandwiching it inside. Acrylic was chosen due to its superior resistance to sanding compared to softer materials like MDF (this will be important in later sanding stages):










An 1/8 inch rabbet step was added to each ring, allowing the GB10 to sit flush inside the baffle:



















The sandwiched MDF layer was used as a riding surface for a round over on each baffle edge. The purpose of the round over was to prevent baffle edge diffraction and also smoothly blend the teardrop into the rest of the pod:










Sanded down baffles to increase adhesion:




























The OEM sail panel was marked and cut to allow the teardrop baffle to recess slightly inward:



















The sail panel was rough sanded and perforated around the edges to allow for glue to plug through and physically secure:










The baffle was carefully angled and secured with CA glue. The bulkiness of the side mirror wiring harness behind the sail panel prevented me from recessing the tweeter in too far. The upper edge was pushed into the panel as far as possible: 










A majority of the sail panel itself was trimmed away to allow for easy access to the backside of the tweeter in the future. OEM mounting points were left intact:










Thin wooden dowels were cut to size and CA glued to form the foundational shape of the tweeter pod:










Added more dowels:










The outside surface was masked off with tape. From the inside, fiberglass reinforced filler was packed in between the dowels, permanently locking the structure together:



















A layer of Rage Gold body filler was applied: 










One pod sanded. Using acrylic as the baffle allowed me to ride along the edge as a guide with my sander, while knocking off the filler easily. Since acrylic is more resistant to sanding than filler, the overall shape was maintained:










Two pods sanded:










A few pinholes needed to be fixed:










The original plan was to vinyl wrap the pods in OEM matching leather. Many hours of stretching, heating, and pressing were wasted. Upholstery is a skill that I really need to work on... 










Plan B was to primer and paint the pods. The inner edge of the baffle was masked off and primer was applied:










Sanded down with 400 grit:










GB10 mounted:




























The GB10 was secured in the pod by using the provided backside insert screw and other included hardware:










Final installed pictures will be displayed at the end!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*Midrange door panel mounting*

The GB25 was originally mounted inside a 2 inch PVC cap behind a custom made grill (you can find it on page 1). The acoustic performance was acceptable, but visually, I had been wanting to change it for a while now. My main goal was to get closer to an OEM look while improving acoustical performance of the driver. 

The mounting area was masked off:










The original lines found on the door panel were captured and traced onto the tape:










The tape was removed and transferred to 1/4 inch MDF:










A 1/4 inch rabbet was applied to the backside of each piece in preparation for vinyl wrapping later on:










A round over was added to eliminate sharp edges:










Without a 3D surfacing router tool, matching the natural curve of the door panel provided a challenge. After much brainstorming, a familiar technique used to add curves to subwoofer boxes, Kerfing, was used, on a miniature scale:










Lines were cut using a DIY table saw setup. The piece was then firmly pressed to the door panel, allowing it to assume the curvature. Small dabs of CA gel glue were then instant bonded to temporarily hold the bent piece in position. The result:










Ragegold filler was added to reinforce the curve:










The filler was sanded smooth down to the MDF surface, leaving an interesting pattern behind:




























The piece was secured to the work surface with some tape in preparation for a hole saw:










A 4 inch hole saw was used on the piece, leaving just a sliver leftover!










This next step truly reveals the quality of the Audiofrog mounting hardware. The outer mounting ring was too large for my application, so it was trimmed with a cutoff wheel to allow for clearance of the door panel opening when mounting. Solid metal right there!:










The mounting ring was temporarily attached to the curved piece. Having both pieces flipped over allowed the ring and curved piece to sit exactly flush with one another:










The work piece was masked off and filler was applied inside the cracks. The ring was blended into the curved piece, provided a nice flush and level surface:





































The piece was wrapped in OEM matching leather vinyl:



















Relief cuts were made on the backside and tucked into the rabetted edge that was previously prepared:










The excess vinyl in the center hole was cut out:



















The supplied chrome trim ring was press fitted into the outer trim ring and secured with CA glue for extra measure:










Another angle with the grill on:










We're not done yet folks! 2.5 inch PVC couplers were fitted behind the mounting assembly:










In order to achieve the ideal airspace requirements for the GB25, the PVC piece was modified to accommodate side wall extensions:










The walls were sealed with filler and painted black:










A forsener bit was used to recess magnets into the base:










Corresponding magnets were added to the door panel:










Both speakers mounted on the door. Without a grill on the GB25:



















Fully completed:




























Final shot of the vehicle interior (using panorama shot on my phone)











Adding a Rockford DSR1

A third DSP was added in order to provide EQ and level control capabilities to the side and rear surround channels coming from the MS8. The DSR1 was hidden behind a trunk panel:










22 Bluejeans LC-1 RCA's were used to connect the MS8 to each DSP, and each DSP to its corresponding amplifier. In total, there are now 14 actively processed channels. 

The wiring was getting a bit crazy to handle:










Holes were cut through the rear deck to add Audiofrog GS42 coaxials, run infinite baffle:




























The final step will be to simply run this Rockford PLC knob to the front for control of the rear surround volume on the fly. Some songs have lots of out of phase/ambience/room cues, while some don't, so it's nice to have variable control over the "surround effect".

Subjective rambling:

At the end of the day, this is the best my car has ever sounded. The front stage has great depth, with plenty of stage width from the door mounted GB25's. The clarity and separation between voices, instruments, and sound effects is so pronounced, it's almost TOO detailed. Having rear surround speakers on separated DSP channels (not run in parallel) helps with adding ambience/room cues/presence to the music, without blurring the imaging up front. I believe this is where proper upmixers like Logic7 really shine. On select electronic tracks with tons of artificial ambience cues, the effect is a listening environment larger than the physical dimensions of the car, as I cannot perceive any acoustical boundary at all (sounds like I'm sitting in an open field listening to music or a large, echoey concert hall). It's hard to explain, but it's cool... 

Thanks for reading guys. Throughout this build, I've been able to reinforce and cement the techniques and knowledge that I've learned in the past. It just took many hours of trial and error to reveal what was lying dormant in my head. I've still got a long way to go, but I'm going to start (simpler/budget) builds in family/friends cars, so stay tuned for that.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Can you list sources on where you get the vinyl that matches the interior and or where you gets these crazy but good ideas on fabrication? I like the pods you made and I'm thinking I might want to try my hand at something like those pods for the tweeters myself.


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Great work, Matt!!!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

V8toilet said:


> Can you list sources on where you get the vinyl that matches the interior and or where you gets these crazy but good ideas on fabrication? I like the pods you made and I'm thinking I might want to try my hand at something like those pods for the tweeters myself.


I just walk into my local fabric store and find the closest match. My fabrication was inspired by my training at musicar northwest, caraudiofabrication on YouTube, build logs on diyma, and just wanting to try something new. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

mattkim1337 said:


> I just walk into my local fabric store and find the closest match. My fabrication was inspired by my training at musicar northwest, caraudiofabrication on YouTube, build logs on diyma, and just wanting to try something new.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


FWIW these guys are local to NE PDX and have an AMAZING array of fabrics https://www.perfectfit.com/


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

mattkim1337 said:


> Welcome to my third and final addition to my build log. This took between 50-100 hours (who's counting anyways) to complete. The overall objective was to remount the GB10 and GB25 in a closer to OEM and acoustically favorable manner. Another DSP and amp were also added to the mix in order to provide EQ and level control capabilities to the side and rear surround speakers (Logic7). Finally, I added some Audiofrog GS42 coaxial speakers to the rear deck, making my system a true 7.1 setup. This will likely conclude the build in my current car, as I'm happy with everything the way it turned out. I will be as detailed was possible on each step to explain what I did and why. Without further ado, enjoy!
> 
> *Sail Panel Tweeter Pod Fabrication*
> 
> ...


I really appreciate the detailed steps in this post, well the rest of the thread too but especially this post.

I have GS10’s that I tried to install in my sail panels, but they didn’t have enough room. So, due to my lack of fiberglassing skills I just bought some of those German CNC pods, which look like an afterthought.

Once I figure out how I want to aim the gs10’s, maybe I’ll upgrade to the gb’s and (thanks to the detail in this post) I’ll attempt to glass them in.

Great build!


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## thechainrule (Feb 2, 2010)

Beautiful stuff man!


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Very Nice....love this.


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

More coming soon guys... its cold but I'm still out here working 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## bbusch (Mar 17, 2018)

mattkim1337 said:


> More coming soon guys... its cold but I'm still out here working
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Really nice work. I feel you on the cold.. it's been snowing here for months leaving me dead in my tracks trying to get any stereo installed and fabrication completed.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Man those sails turned out beautiful.. Nicely done!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Beautiful work, man! Especially love the sail panels... Total fabrication overkill is my favorite!


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Thats an awesome build!


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## nstaln (Feb 11, 2009)

I'm thinking about replacing my HU with an iPad...I have a couple questions. How did you integrate the iPad to your DSP? How do you power the iPad and does it turn on/off with the key?

The install looks fantastic. Great work!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

nstaln said:


> I'm thinking about replacing my HU with an iPad...I have a couple questions. How did you integrate the iPad to your DSP? How do you power the iPad and does it turn on/off with the key?
> 
> 
> 
> The install looks fantastic. Great work!


It depends on the DSP that you're running. I used the Apple USB Camera adapter 3 (which has a charging port). From there I ran a USB cable straight into my Helix DSP with the USB HEC module. But, now that I'm using a JBL MS8 (which has analog inputs), I'm using a Audioquest Dragonfly Red USB DAC inbetween the iPad and processor. The difference in sound between those are imperceptible to me. 

My iPad setup is unlike the modded Nexus 7 tablet radios. It doesn't have any auto on/off feature. There is an software accessibility shortcut which allows me to power off the iPad from the screen, instead of the physical power button. Powering on is a matter of turning the car on, since the iPad will auto turn on if it senses a charge active. Since the iPad is molded into the dash, I can't access any of the side buttons (volume, power), but as I've explained, there are workarounds.

Hope that helps!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## jerry236 (Jan 25, 2014)

Hey mattkim1337... whats the company that makes the magnetic floating mount for the Ipad set up you had originally? And was that the 12.9" version?


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

jerry236 said:


> Hey mattkim1337... whats the company that makes the magnetic floating mount for the Ipad set up you had originally? And was that the 12.9" version?


I fabricated the mount myself. I used a double din dash kit bezel and just bolted some 3 inch bolts through it from the back, then glued some magnets on the ends. 

Yes it's the 12.9 inch



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## jerry236 (Jan 25, 2014)

I loved the way it looked with the floating mount. I'm thinking of trying something like that. Did the Ipad shake at all when driving over bumpy roads?
Please tell me you have some pics of the magnetic mounts.


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## CDT FAN (Jul 25, 2012)

I just discovered this thread. I cannot believe that the shop decided not to keep you on. I think that you would have been a great asset to their team.

What was it about the fiberglass sub enclosure that you didn't like?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Joycon EXR is what I used on my tablet install in my last car to integrate the steering wheel controls. It wires in to the resistance ladder for the steering wheel controls and then you can use a PC to assign button functions. I assume it would work on an iPad (I did a Samsung) because it is essentially recognized as a USB Keyboard.

I also used an Arduino to intercept certain functions prior to the Joycon, and used it to simulate a rotary encoder so volume is adjusted directly on my processor. Since digital signal is typically attenuated by dropping bits from the bit stream, this would allow me to keep the volume on the tablet at full strength (so to speak) and not need to access the knob on my DSP controller. At the time I was running a BitOne and had removed the knob, as well as moved the display into my rear view mirror.

The fab work is actually a lot harder than the SWC integration.

Great job on the car, Matt. I'm about to switch my mids/tweets from Illusion C3CX's to GB10/GB25's. Tweeters are going on the sails, mids in stock dash location because I don't want to heavily mod this car.

Jay


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Hey guys! I'm back at it again... I'd like to share new builds on two big projects I've been working on. While I was quite happy with my mid/high performance, I found myself wanting more when it came to low frequency extension (20-30hz range). Up to this point, I ran a single Audiofrog GB10 Subwoofer in the passenger footwell. This provided great front impact and blending with the midbass, but rolled off too soon for my tastes. There were also modal dips around 37hz which I could not EQ back. The enclosure also took up the entire footwell, which left passengers cramped for legroom. 

Objectives and Solutions:

1) *Low frequency extension* - Either run infinite baffle or ported. Being a hybrid vehicle, IB was not an option due to the large battery pack and HVAC vents behind the rear seats. The next best option was to run a ported enclosure, using an Audiofrog GB12 tuned to 26Hz. This was built into my spare tire well in the trunk.

2) *Regaining usability of the passenger footwell* - In order to regain the legroom for passengers, my only option was to occupy the airspace of the glove box and move the enclosure upwards. I also added some cosmetic styling to the enclosure to make it look nicer.

3) *Elimination (mitigation) of Room Modes* - I stumbled across a video of Earl Geddes (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCWL-zusyqw), which explained how some modal issues in small rooms could be mitigated by using multiple subwoofers that excite different room modes. In theory, the modal dip of one subwoofer can be "filled" by a secondary subwoofer which doesn't have a problem at that frequency. Using both a front and rear subwoofer enclosure provided me with the opportunity to test this idea (I wouldn't be making this thread if it didn't work).

*False Floor Ported Spare Tire Well Enclosure*

I opted not to use fiberglass, as this was built during winter, and I've had terrible experiences of uncured resin (even sitting overnight). I didn't want to take that chance, so I this enclosure was constructed of pure wood and Duraglas. 

Since the floor of the tire well was not flat, some areas had to be spaced upwards to clear the ridges. The basic skeleton of the floor was assembled:










Semicircular arches were made to follow the curve of the tire well. These will be stacked to form the overall shape:



















The first arch was secured using many smaller blocks and CA glue:










Additional arches were added:










The side walls and back piece were then added:



















Bottom view of the enclosure thusfar:










All the large gaps were filled with Duraglass. Then the entire inside of the enclosure was smothered with a mixture of Duraglas and Fiberglass Resin to seal any missed gaps:










Threaded inserts were added to the mounting baffle:










The port to be used was 22 inches long, with a 4 inch diameter:



















Bracing was added around the mounting hole, as the enclosure was quite flat and wide, the center needed some reinforcement:










I poured 5-gallon bottles of water into the enclosure to measure the airspace and also test for pinhole leaks. The total net volume was around 2 cubic feet. I modeled this in WinISD and it yielded a 26 Hz tuning frequency.

The enclosure was painted black and wrapped in black carpet:










The outline of the trunk was estimated using the factory trunk liner:










Test fit:










A frame was built around the woofer and port:










The frame was transferred to the false floor:










Using the frame as a guide template, the floor was flush trimmed to the shape of the frame:










The opening was expanded by a half inch in order to expose the frame as a mounting platform for the cover piece later on:



















The carpet was tucked and cut off in the rabbetted edge made earlier:



















You can see that the frame is exposed half an inch so that the cover piece can rest on top of it:










The cover now rests as the same height as the false floor:









A strong metal grill was added to provide protection to the woofer and port. This was then wrapped in black felt (air easily passes through):










*Final product with cover installed:
*










Stay tuned for the glove box build log. Coming Soon!


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Your determination to not use fiberglass is damn heroic lol. Gj all around tho.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Very nice!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

*Glovebox Subwoofer Enclosure
*
_This is the most advanced fabrication project that I've tackled so far... Hope you guys enjoy! The subwoofer used is the Audiofrog GB10D2._

The OEM glovebox assembly was removed. The HVAC motor was mounted directly behind it, limiting airspace in terms of depth:










A basic shell of the walls were captured using 1/2 inch MDF:










The open areas were enclosed with some more MDF:










I reused the middle portion of the old footwell enclosure to expand airspace downwards. At this point, the enclosure was a messy puzzle of pieces CA glued together. This is an area that could have been designed more thoughtfully:



















The curved front edges were cut flat in order to mount a flat front baffle. Potential air leaks were sealed with a Duralgas Milkshake:










A body line found on the dash nearby was captured onto some masking tape. This curve was incorporated into the front baffle of the enclosure:



















Test fit of the front baffle:









The width of the bottom portion was too large, limiting leg space for the passenger. About 2 inches from each side were painstakingly shaved off and resealed to allow for more leg clearance:










Aluminum strips were bent to create brackets that would match with the existing bolt points of the OEM glovebox:



















Test mounting of the subwoofer, with the enclosure secured to the factory bolt points:



















The next step was to build the front cover plate that would integrate the enclosure to the interior. A bendable strip of aluminum was used to draft a curve that would run from top to bottom:










The curve was transferred to spacers that hovered about 1.5 inches above the surround of the subwoofer:










The spacers were magnetically mounted for consistent alignment and future serviceability:



















A front fascia was created from the same contour of the enclosure. A hole that was larger than the subwoofer itself was routed out:



















Kerf cuts spaced 1/4 inch apart were made:










The panel was then curved along the raised spacers:










A smaller inner circle was made, which would serve to cover the mounting hardware on the subwoofer and only expose the surround and cone:










The inner and outer rings were adhered with small blocks of MDF to provide some structure:










Additional pieces of 1/4inch MDF were used to mate with the dash lines:



















Body filler was applied to capture the shape of the dash and fill in any cracks. The inner and outer circles provided a guide to smash filler into to create a large curved chamfer that could not be obtained with a router bit:










The same process was used to mate to the enclosure:










After some heavy sanding:



















The backside of the faceplate, which was reinforced with fiberglass and secured in multiple points with additional MDF braces:










Wrapping the faceplate in OEM matching vinyl:










Tucked over and sliced:










The vinyl used was not a 4 way stretch. Stretching into the chamfer was extremely difficult even with a heat gun and resulted in some wrinkling of the vinyl. This will be fixed at a later date:




























The enclosure itself was coated with multiple layers of primer, and painted satin black.



















Preview of the faceplate + enclosure:










Top view:










Enclosure was prepped with polyfil and speaker wire:










Subwoofer mounted:










Finished product with the faceplate magnetically attached:










MOST IMPORTANTLY, the proper airspace requirements of the GB10 were met (about 0.75 ft3) while maintaining complete clearance for the passenger's legs. My legs fully stretched out (this was very satisfying):










Better view:










Thanks for reading!


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

That’s certainly a tough location for a sub. Amazing work.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

mattkim1337 said:


> *Glovebox Subwoofer Enclosure
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading!*


*

Damn dude, you killed AGAIN!!!*


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

mattkim1337 said:


> *Glovebox Subwoofer Enclosure...*
> 
> This is the most advanced fabrication project that I've tackled so far... Hope you guys enjoy! The subwoofer used is the Audiofrog GB10D2.
> 
> ...



Amazing work, Matt! And a great solution to provide at least some form of legroom for your front passengers. ??


Something to think about in the future...

Try facing the cone of the Subwoofer into the firewall/footwell (towards the front of the vehicle) instead of firing back towards your passenger seat. This *might* improve on your design in several ways:

1. While it's kind of a moot point for subwoofer frequencies, it might provide a better/more equidistant pathlength.

2. More importantly, the Boundary-Loading or Corner-Loading of the subwoofer will be optimized. As it is, with the cone facing towards the front passenger, you will create additional cancellation & peak modes in the cabin as the sound waves wrap around the enclosure from the front at the cone, to the "back wall" (in this case the footwell floor/firewall or "foot pockets" that you created) and forward again to the cone.

Look up the work by studio engineer/acoustician, Carl Tatz. While not car audio specific, he has a method/system/software for calculating these modes in typical rooms, and nearly every recording studio/home audio/home theater setup has the subwoofer cones improperly facing into the room, when the cones and/or ports should be pointed towards the wall (the nearest boundary) to reduce cancellation modes created by the low-frequency waves wrapping around the sides & top of the enclosure to the back wall/boundary behind the enclosure and then back to the front-facing cone again.

3. The exposed fascia or trim panel will be much simpler and easier to fabricate and finish since you don't have to worry about creating a grill or protecting the subwoofer cone. You might even still have room to create a new, shallow, but functional OEM-looking glove box.

4. You don't ever have to worry about the subwoofer being damaged by your passengers or objects/grocery bags, etc. And it would probably be a lot less obvious that it is in fact a custom subwoofer to passersby and potential thieves.


Of course, I realize that this orientation might not actually be possible, or may not provide as much enclosure volume, because there might not be enough room for the diameter of the 10" subwoofer's flange/frame to fit down below the HVAC housing and deep into the footwell. But if it can fit that way, that is how I would go about it in my vehicle. It's similar to the principle of a down-firing enclosure.

Just my .02, but fantastic work regardless, dude!


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

bbfoto said:


> Amazing work, Matt! And a great solution to provide at least some form of legroom for your front passengers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'll definitely consider your loading theory. I'm satisfied with the acoustical performance of the subwoofer, so I wont be changing it for a while. Thanks for the ideas though!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Hey Matt,

What brand and color of paint did you use on your sail panels (for the gb10’S)?


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## tonynca (Dec 4, 2009)

Holy cow that front seat sub enclosure....


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## mattkim1337 (Jan 31, 2018)

Chris12 said:


> Hey Matt,
> 
> What brand and color of paint did you use on your sail panels (for the gb10’S)?


Sorry I havent checked this thread in ages. Its SEM color coat - Landau Black. Amazing paint.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Reidlake (Jun 5, 2021)

After integrating that laptop to the dashboard, you can change the steering wheel and after that you can say that you got a TESLA car DD. I have actually had such a Kia Optima, and I have to tell you that it is one of the best cars that I have ever owned from the point of view of price per quality ratio! I have also integrated a laptop in there. I actually tuned that car DD after that it was pretty... unstable and I had to have the laptop always by my side. I even got a stand for the laptop from Smart Laptop Stands ® Official Website as it had to be always in the car.


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

holy crap just saw your build thread on FB. insane work man!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

vietjdmboi said:


> holy crap just saw your build thread on FB. insane work man!


This is his old car. Wait till you guys see his new one lol


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## RickWilson (Nov 11, 2021)

SkizeR said:


> This is his old car. Wait till you guys see his new one lol


It's decent


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

I just saw this build for the first time too. That front sub is cool. I love the leg cut outs. Killer Fab skills. Your new car is OK I guess.


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