# Sticky  CarPC intro thread. List your equipment here



## maverickmann

Just a thought, how about a CarPC introduction from those that have gone that route, for those that may consider building one in the future? A general breakdown of pieces, overall costs, features or potential uses, benefits, issues, etc. Just a clear, concise thread for FAQ. I know that MP3Car.com has a wealth of information but it would be nice to have it here.


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## Ultimateherts

*Re: How about a CarPC intro?*

Well it depends on what you want to do! I guess the easiest place to start is the Motherboard and Processor. 

*PROCESSORS:*

If you just want to play music and videos then the basic entry level Processors from Intel and AMD will do. If you want to do more like vehicle diagnostoic GPS tracking video recording in case of a break in then you will need more power. When looking at processors they come in many different flavors. Basically they come in number or cores. Think of cores as an extra person the more people you have the easier the job can be. So for a basic car pc a single core is fine. However, you might need up to a triple core processor for the more power driven system I descibed. 

*MOTHERBOARDS:*

Motherboards come in different sizes and have different features. Here are three of the most common types for CAR PC's.

NANO ITX

Very power efficient

Very small can fit anywhere.

120 × 120 mm (4.7 × 4.7 in)

No upgrade posibilities except USB

Mini-ITX 

17 x 17 cm (or 6.7 x 6.7 inches) 

Very power efficient

good for most in dash installs

has very limited upgrade abilities though. (usually one expansion slot)

MICRO ATX

171.45 mm × 171.45 mm (6.75 in × 6.75 in)

Not quite as small as others, but still small enough.

Upgradable with up to three expansion slots

Use more power than Nano and Mini ITX.


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## UMD_Jesse

new member, first post....
I guess Ill bring this one back from the dead since Im going the car PC route.

-Asus e35m1-m pro mobo (this thing rocks! drawns like 15 watts at idle)
-lilliput 869GL high brightness
-HT Omega Claro Halo sound card
-64 GB ssd
-M3-ATX-HD power supply and shurdown controller (works fine in ATX mode, havent tried shutdown controller yet
-rcjoycon-ex (havent set this up yet)

Thats the short list.


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## Jesse M

UMD_Jesse said:


> new member, first post....
> I guess Ill bring this one back from the dead since Im going the car PC route.
> 
> -Asus e35m1-m pro mobo (this thing rocks! drawns like 15 watts at idle)
> -lilliput 869GL high brightness
> -HT Omega Claro Halo sound card
> -64 GB ssd
> -M3-ATX-HD power supply and shurdown controller (works fine in ATX mode, havent tried shutdown controller yet
> -rcjoycon-ex (havent set this up yet)
> 
> Thats the short list.


Are you using the SSD for the whole system (OS and media) or do you have another hard drive somewhere. I'm planning on a system but Im not sure what I want to do yet. Maybe just get a small ssd for quick boot up times and a regular hard drive for media storage. 

Sent from my Galaxy S3.


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## Zaphod

Whew, short thread!

I think I'm going this route next. I'm curious what most put between the pc and the amps. I see where an audison bit one/ten or something similar would work nice but I really struggle to justify buying that much tech just to give me volume , fade, and sub level.

Is there something that splits the difference nicely between buying a bit one and just tossing three rotary pots on the pre-amp lines?


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## Ultimateherts

HP TC1000 Tablet

Focusrite Saffire 6 USB audio interface

Asus Top loading USB dvd drive

Kensington Bluetooth

Belkin (4) port USB hub

Carnetix CNX-P1900


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## RayBob

Here is what I have so far, Car PC, not including the audio gear:

01) $235 Derrick's DDIN HDMI Case kit Samsung Touchscreen w/USB buttons
02) $100 Intel DN2800MT Atom Motherboard
03) $35 Intel Intel 6235 dual band ABGN + Bluetooth 4 mini PCI-E card
04) $65 Toshiba mini SATA II 64GB SSD
05) $20 Hynix HMT125S6TFR8C-G7 2x2GB DDR3-1066 SO-DIMMs
06) $40 Joycon EXR USB Programable Steering Wheel Interface
07) $60 PWR-034 DCDC-USB intelligent DC-DC converter
08) $13 NoiseBlocker Fan XM2 40x10mm Silent Fan
09) $5 Apple Mini SMA WIFI and BT Antennas
10) $74 Directed HD Radio connected through RS232 interface
11) $10 Four port no-name usb hub
12) $100 ObjectiveDAC (ODAC) digital to analog convertor for high quality sound
13) $40 BU-353-S4 USB GPS receiver
14) $100 Misc hardware, connectors, tools, cables, shrink wrap, etc.
15) $90 Windows 7 home premium 64bit OEM
16) $15 Windows 8 pro 32bit upgrade (32bit due to lack of intel 64 bit drivers)
17) $28 Blue Soleil Bluetooth Driver Stack
18) $30 Microsoft Streets and Trips 2013


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## liquidh8

I have a bunch of stuff, don't quite remember what it is now, lol.


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## NealfromNZ

0, E46 bmw sat nav , 16/9 screen , bt hands free , cd stacker, tv module

1, $300 Acer 255e netbook, atom based 2 gig ram 320gig HD
Power comp less than 40 watts
2, $0 win 7 starter , ride runner car2pc software ,community based skins
3, $50 BMW Ibus to usb , comms driver , software that can interpret any button or switch push
4, $20 7 port usb 2.0 hub
5, $40 VGA to composite video convertor
6, $20 bt usb edr 2.1 adaptor (supports 16bit 41&44khz MPEG audio streaming)
7, $90 usb bluray/DVD/cd rom drive
8, $0 USB modem stick
9, $30 40 watt netbook charger 12 volt 
10, $40 miniature bt keyboard
11,$ 20 2x 2.1 amp usb chargers 12 volt
12 $60 usb hifimediy Sabre Dac , up to 192k 24 bit audio support. Unbalanced audio & optical output via 3.5mm jack

Still to get, wintv free view tuner,


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## Edward Conley

Computer is necessary for everyone in these days. Few friends of mine install car pc device in their cars. I want a car pc for my Honda Hybrid 2010. Where i can get in good price ?
Is it possible i can get any used car pc ?


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## Jawshaaron

Going off the top of my head so may be off in specifics but..
2011 F-150 Lariat SCrew 
MSI Gaming 3 Z97 -MoBo
Core i5 4th gen 4550T??
Patriot Viper 16 GB 1600Mhz DDR3
HT OMEGA Halo Claro XT sound card
Nvidia Quadro M4000 graphics card
Have 250GB Samsung 870 M.2 for OS
Also have a 500 Samsung 860 SSD 
As well I have a Hotswap drive in the dash 
Also in dash is a Sony BHD500 (something like that) Then I put the typically front panel pc hub in dash as well
Joycon usb control card so I have steering wheel media controls that work
For Internet cause why would you have a pc and not ?? I use a no brand PCIe To Mini card with a Quecetel A25 and have a AT&T prepaid sim with a 15gb data phone plan I can make calls and send messages as well as have hotspot inside the truck for others. I also use a LTE booster and have a fancy antenna you see on trucks that looks like a tall boy beer can lol 
For display I use a 10.1” 2k monitor off Amazon I’ve had several similar and dint remember brand but they’re all the same thing just some random Chinese product but the lcd it’s self is a Panasonic I believe and the control card and such is added by the seller list, highly impressed by it and others I’ve had super responsive , as well as brightness and color is flawless. I also have a 6.7” stretched bar lcd but have not got it set up yet still figuring some things out but my plan is to put where the factory display is that has clock,temp, CC indicators, and what would show media info but since I have the factory stuff out it just says Built Ford Tough! Along with CC snd clock. Kinda wanted to get one of those 5.25 bay drives they used to sell for media PCs years back with the lcd for media display but finding a good reason price one is a hobby in itself as I haven’t found one other than what individuals sell in eBay. 
niw I’m sure y’all wondering how I power this beast and well my truck came equipped with integrated inverter though it wouldn’t be powerful enough but I use it for other things as well so I upgraded to a 2000wone and just use a TT 750watt power supply that I already had. Also I run 3 Kicker KXA amps a 5 channel, 2 channel, and Mono, have component KSS in front and 5.25 coaxial KSC as well as 6.75 kicker CompRT in each rear door. I have 2 12” kicker CompRT and a single 8” CompRT in a custom fiberglass box under seat and the 8” actually sticks out on floorboard area and connects to the center console. I keep the PC and Ampsall behind the rear seat snd a few fans to keep air circulation gojng and the Pc has several fansin the case i custom built as well.Also to go along with the powering part of things I upgraded to a Police interceptor 350 amp alternator, and have a XS Power D6500 under hood and aXs Power D950 underneath the rear seat, i used KNUKONCEPTZ Kollosus kandy cable 1/0 for battery to battery and battery to Alt connections have rated breaker fuses for not just battery’s but for each amp as well so if and when things trip resetting the breaker is easy. I used a nobrand distribution blockand 4 awg for the amps.

there’s some other little things here and there but their was a lot ofobstacles I came across little by little when starting what j thought would be a budget build that would be cheaper than a deck but I get addicted to any project I do and while it’s not over the top it’s a little on the radical side snd people’s reactions when I say snd show them I have a full ATX PC inside my truck, is always priceless to see. I’ll have to say I gotta tweak with something everyone and then to make sure everything get going right and still have more to accomplish till it’s as reliable and easy to use as a factory orAMdeck would be but I love it and would want to put a PC in anyvehicle I drive


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