# more door treatments... Is this guy legit?



## masnow (Jul 7, 2017)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp71lSN_hH4&list=WL&index=7

I don't understand how the acoustic tile can maintain functionality if it's in a bag. Besides that, how much good could 1" or so of fiberglass do?


----------



## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Yes, That is Keep Hope Alive a real live sound engineer and competitor. The properties of ceiling tiles is well known. They do use it for sound absorption ya know


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Another member here used it in his doors too:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/273098-babs-08-honda-civic-si-sedan-17.html


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Totally legit. I just installed this in all four of my doors and the difference was staggering. I only have cld on the doors as well at the moment, but will be adding a ccf/lead layer shortly behind the door trim.

It is enough of an effect that I will do this with every personal install that I do in the future. It really changed the overall sound signature of my car.

I think once I install the lead, most of the in car effect of the fiberglass will be lessened though. 

It does appear to help midbass response quite a bit. 

As far as what freq range it helps, it appears helps upper midbass/lower midrange on up. You are right that it is not thick enough to affect lower frequencies. 

I took some measurements of before and after. I will post them up in my build log once I get everything put together.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## masnow (Jul 7, 2017)

dcfis said:


> Yes, That is Keep Hope Alive a real live sound engineer and competitor. The properties of ceiling tiles is well known. They do use it for sound absorption ya know


Using it in a bag that fully encloses the foam is the part I don't understand.


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

It is not foam. It is fiberglass batting.

The bag does not affect the lower frequencies. It is too thin and not dense enough to affect anything beyond the higher frequencies. 

It acts like a psuedo membrane bass trap for the upper midbass region. I've been reading up on it trying to fully wrap my head around it myself. At first look, it doesn't seem logical, but it does work. 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Weightless said:


> Totally legit. I just installed this in all four of my doors and the difference was staggering. I only have cld on the doors as well at the moment, but will be adding a ccf/lead layer shortly behind the door trim.
> 
> It is enough of an effect that I will do this with every personal install that I do in the future. It really changed the overall sound signature of my car.
> 
> ...


Can you provide a link to the product you used / where you bought it?

Really looking forward to see/hear your creation in the spring! :thumbsup:


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

I got it locally. I think at Lowe's. Ill snap a pic of the box when I get home. 

Just like Keep_Hope_Alive, I bought off the shelf fiberglass 2x4 ceiling tile. I peeled off the white coating and cut to size. I doubled them up before wrapping in the 1 mil tarp. 

It is a tedious process, but once you get in the groove of it, it goes pretty fast. 

The only thing I would recommend is prep, prep, prep. Having all tools and enough of those tools readily at hand and having a large horizontal surface for cutting and you should be good to go. 

Oh, and try not to do it on a windy day. 1 mil tarp really does a great impression of a kite when prevoked. 

I did the front doors first. After that, most of the interior noise pushed to the backdoors and to the floorboard. I was amazed at how much sound comes through just the doors. It balanced out once the rears were finished. 

Now most of the road noise comes from the floorboards and the windshield. 

Now that my brain has adjusted to the new sound signature of the interior, I still hear noise through the doors, but am hoping that the lead sandwich that I will be applying will get rid of most of the residual noise. 

It is amazing how the brain gets used to the sounds in a defined space. It was almost jarring hearing it. I started hearing other sources of noise that were masked by the door noise. Quite a fun experiment. 

Ill post some of the limited data that i captured during the process. 

Yeah, I can't wait to go to Ian's this spring. I was bummed I missed the last one. Maybe this time, Ill have something to show off instead of being the kid who didn't have anyhting to show for show and tell day...

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

...i can't seem to find a bunch of my pics...here are two that I could find of the driver side...so much more to do!
















Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Weightless said:


> Yeah, I can't wait to go to Ian's this spring. I was bummed I missed the last one. Maybe this time, Ill have something to show off instead of being the kid who didn't have anyhting to show for show and tell day...


I may start a thread for a spring meet here shortly, need to coordinate some things first. 

Back on topic... how much did you use for each door? I really want to give this a shot in my doors, might make a nice winter project as well. Will definitely hit you up for any tips on the installation.


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Ha,I think I just pre-invited myself to an event that hasn't even been announced. Lol. Talk about assumptions. 

Actually, I didn't track exactly how much was used per door. What I can do though is see how many sheets that I have left from my case and will just divide by four. The doors where pretty equal from what I remember. 

I do know thatI could only stack them two high due to the window placement. Im my miata, i should be able to go 4-6 high in some places... won't get started on that project until the spring though. 

I'll be available to help how I can...

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Weightless said:


> It does appear to help midbass response quite a bit.
> 
> As far as what freq range it helps, it appears helps upper midbass/lower midrange on up. You are right that it is not thick enough to affect lower frequencies.


Thanks for sharing Justin!

I'm considering doing something in the doors as far as absorption, while I have them opened up, but realize that mid-bass isn't easily absorbed and just trying to figure the best method for my application... Don't plan on playing any higher then ~250hz in the doors. Considering this stuff or maybe a bunch of black hole tiles.

Got me thinking maybe a limp decoupled curtian, perhaps MLV, between the inner/outer skins could "waste" the mid-bass energy by vibrating so that there is less energy to transfer out of the doors. I guess that would be kind of how the black hole tiles work.. Maybe? :huh:


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Richard's method is VERY legit. Best things I ever did with my door.. Get the absorption in there to accompany the CLD deadening. Then I sealed the big hole with 100% CLD covered aluminum sheet. The difference was staggering. It virtually eliminated a bunch of back-wave phase-related problems, as well as evening out response and made the doors act much more like an enclosure. The whole system is the key.. CLD for resonance control, sealing with CCF and MLV for proofing, and absorption for energy control behind the driver.


----------



## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Why even ask if he is 'legit'?
(But I suspect that he is)

One can test it and see if the claims are true, independent of whether he is right or wrong about any (other) topic?


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Babs said:


> Richard's method is VERY legit. Best things I ever did with my door.. Get the absorption in there to accompany the CLD deadening. Then I sealed the big hole with 100% CLD covered aluminum sheet. The difference was staggering. It virtually eliminated a bunch of back-wave phase-related problems, as well as evening out response and made the doors act much more like an enclosure. The whole system is the key.. CLD for resonance control, sealing with CCF and MLV for proofing, and absorption for energy control behind the driver.


Totally agree. Vibration control, absorption, and blocking sound...the trifecta if you will. Lol. 

Scott, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that it provided that much of a difference. I was wrestling for awhile that it was a placebo, you know, considering the amount of effort that I put into adding this, hell, it better do something...but the fact that it threw me off for a few days, just reinforced it. 

I drive a minimum of 3 hours a day and have been with this car for about over a year, so I am familiar with the acoustic signature of the interior at different speeds and over different road material, and man, what a difference it made. 

Again, as I stated above, once I get the blocking in, the interior effect will be lessened and the absorption qualities of it being in an "enclosure" will dominate , but with just the fg in place, it is indeed staggering.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Weightless said:


> Totally agree. Vibration control, absorption, and blocking sound...the trifecta if you will. Lol.
> 
> Scott, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that it provided that much of a difference. I was wrestling for awhile that it was a placebo, you know, considering the amount of effort that I put into adding this, hell, it better do something...but the fact that it threw me off for a few days, just reinforced it.
> 
> ...


I had some amazingly frustrating phase issues regardless of driver before that were measurable in phase response as well as frequency response.. I could be timed perfect up top and completely out of phase in various regions.. Folks would tell me, ah that's the center console, etc etc. Nope.. It was backwave energy through the driver, through the door into door card, everywhere. Even with CLD and a CCF/MLV layer between card and door. After doing the work the difference was immediate, measurable and confirmable. 

My only concern is I think I should have used a slightly heavier gauge plastic over the absorption panels just in case there was a snag getting them in there and leakage. I imagine though if I went in, I'd know fairly quickly by mold presence if panels needed a re-do. 

But the work of added absorption, sealing, deadening etc... Totally worth it, and still easier than kick panels. Talk to enough old-school competitors and they'll tell you, don't scrimp on good and prudent treatment behind the drivers. That extra mile of work, even in kicks or doors or pillars is very valuable.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Wondering about using these... fiberglass fully enclosed in two mil plastic--

https://www.grainger.com/product/SI...=AZIDPRR_1714-9435-3&req=Customer_Also_Viewed

perhaps more expensive at $10/per 2x4 panel, but ready to go.

If needed to cut to shape, one could just cut and then tape the open seam, eh??


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

They are 2" thick so keep that in mind. It doesn't sound like a lot, but there really isn't a ton of room in between the window and out door skin. 

Also, cutting the fg through the existing bag would seem like a bit of a nuisance. I personally would opt for the KHA method. While tedious, it just seems easier to deal with.


So I checked what I had remaining, and it looks like I used 5 2x4 ceiling tiles at .62" thick, for a total thickness of about an inch and a quarter. 

I have attached a pic of the box of what I used. If I had planned this out, I might have gone with a different material, ie OC 703 or rockwool, something with a known density, but alas I am impatient at times and it was what was available.

Still trying to find my other pics. I fear they were corrupted or lost. It's a bit frustrating. 












Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Found this website listing coefficients for many different materials:

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Truthunter said:


> Found this website listing coefficients for many different materials:
> 
> http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm


Ah yeah that's a good one.. I think he was a biggie on AVS Forum for a long time.

Also keep in mind pertaining to frequency and absorption material depth.. Yes there's not a whole lot you'll get from 1" layer down in the 80-300 region, however keep in mind, that energy is traveling in all directions throughout the door, so at a steep angle, that 1" layer is actually doing some work like a 2-3" layer would because of the angle of sound energy hitting it as it travels from the front to rear of the door and back and all around. 

And also, another method is if you have the room available directly behind the driver, and the window will allow it, layer it up there for better extension of the coefficient directly behind the driver... That driver radiates equally in front and behind. That driver is every bit as loud behind it, than in front of it... So as much of that sound energy that can be diverted from resonating back through the driver as possible is extremely helpful.

(disclaimer: I speak as though I actually know what I'm talking about here. This does not actually mean I actually know my butt from a hole in the ground.)


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Weightless said:


> ...i can't seem to find a bunch of my pics...here are two that I could find of the driver side...so much more to do!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, that'll work.. Then once the holes are sealed with something fairly inert (I used aluminum sheet with full CLD coverage), then a CCF/MLV treatment between door and doorcard, bam! Good stuff happens.


----------



## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Good thread here guys. 
I looked at the chart. Which product on the chart does the one in Weightless’ picture most closely match ?
Since I have my doors torn apart replacing my midbasses, this might be worth tackling at the same time.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Get some OC 703 in some thickness. I still have a bunch of sheets of the stuff. I imagine I’ll use it eventually. Only took two sheets in my doors since I could only fit a single layer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Looking at the chart, i would say OC 703 or 705 if you can fit it. 

The stuff I used was purchased locally. Any lowes or HD should have it...

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## DeLander (Feb 23, 2006)

Thanks guys. I’ll see what’s available around here.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Weightless said:


> Looking at the chart, i would say OC 703 or 705 if you can fit it.
> 
> The stuff I used was purchased locally. Any lowes or HD should have it...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


Despite some controversy, the lighter density of the 703 should be better particularly for low frequencies.

https://www.readyacoustics.com/index.php?main_page=faq_info&fcPath=13_4&faqs_id=36


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Great link! 703 it is...

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Weightless said:


> Great link! 703 it is...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


I thought so too...the explanation just made sense to me despite visiting PLENTY of threads that try to say otherwise.


----------



## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Would it be necessary to use MLV if you seal the door holes with aluminum sheet and maybe seal it on the inner and outer side?
And maybe use CCF on the middle to avoid rattle noise?


----------



## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Westye said:


> Would it be necessary to use MLV if you seal the door holes with aluminum sheet and maybe seal it on the inner and outer side?
> And maybe use CCF on the middle to avoid rattle noise?



Yes, mine was exactly as described and the addition of mlv was audible in the quietness from the outside road noise and the tin can effect of the door


----------



## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

dcfis said:


> Yes, mine was exactly as described and the addition of mlv was audible in the quietness from the outside road noise and the tin can effect of the door


Did you cover the whole door or just the door holes with MLV?
Were you able to put back the door panel without modification?
Mine seems to be tight and I haven't use MLV, everything else is done but not using mlv at this time, wondering about that.....


----------



## chasinbass (Jul 23, 2014)

masnow said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp71lSN_hH4&list=WL&index=7
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand how the acoustic tile can maintain functionality if it's in a bag. Besides that, how much good could 1" or so of fiberglass do?




Yes dude knows what he is talking about ! Do as he says and your doors will sound so much better! I did my 96 gmc doors for two pair of exodus Anarchy’s and I have mid bass for days  very happy with them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Westye said:


> Did you cover the whole door or just the door holes with MLV?
> Were you able to put back the door panel without modification?
> Mine seems to be tight and I haven't use MLV, everything else is done but not using mlv at this time, wondering about that.....

































Yes, I always make sure I have fresh doorclips and they make my life easy


----------



## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

Seems that I need longer door clips.

Thanks for the pics!


----------



## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

This is what concerns me with MLV....Too thick and door card doesn't go back on.


----------



## Westye (Dec 6, 2017)

To be honest, I was at dollar tree and saw this sheet of foam that has 2 layers of paper on each side, like 1/4 of an inch tick, I already had the CCF on the inside of the outer door side covered, all of it, so I cut this foam to fit in the holes, then one more layer of CCF to cover any gaps and I now have to push the door to get it to close, it's tight fit, I'm missing some clips not holding the panel and the screw, the one that holds the panel by the handle, I need to get it longer, otherwise it is loose.

Can not imagine how will be with the MLV been thicker.
That's what it's holding me to get it.

The foam from dollar tree it's doing the trick, I may do the inside and peel off the outside and make it like a sandwich with some CCF in the middle or do the aluminum sheet on the inside and outside and the foam in the middle, then covered with CCF on both sides, this seems more viable, solid, and cheaper.


----------



## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Fack, how did I miss this thread, I would have loved to try this. I just adding some more deadener to my doors. Oh well maybe I will do this on my next ride


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Mad Scientist (Feb 12, 2017)

Been lurking on this forum for a long time, but this thread got me thinking.....

Instead of wrapping the ceiling tiles in a moisture barrier, why not just use a product that already has one? There are a bunch of carpet padding places that offer carpet pads that are resistant to moisture. Granted, carpet padding is usually more dense than acoustic tile, is heavier, but at the price point, why not try it? 

I wonder if it's possible to get sheet metal from Home Depot and build a make-shift car door to test this and other materials.


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Mad Scientist said:


> Been lurking on this forum for a long time, but this thread got me thinking.....
> 
> Instead of wrapping the ceiling tiles in a moisture barrier, why not just use a product that already has one? There are a bunch of carpet padding places that offer carpet pads that are resistant to moisture. Granted, carpet padding is usually more dense than acoustic tile, is heavier, but at the price point, why not try it?
> 
> I wonder if it's possible to get sheet metal from Home Depot and build a make-shift car door to test this and other materials.


I thought of this already... problem is that the moisture resistance carpet padding, as far as I have seen, is only resistant to moisture on one side. Also, I know carpet padding is used to quiet down a room but not sure how efficient it would be absorbing in this application... I've never seen (or looked for) acoustic absorbency ratings for it.


----------



## chasinbass (Jul 23, 2014)

Mad Scientist said:


> Been lurking on this forum for a long time, but this thread got me thinking.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Easier to get a real door and cheaper and while your at it get one same year and model as your car , make all your mods on that door up on your workbench at a normal height and don’t have to be rushed to get done and car back together. I have one for my truck I got for 10 bucks - had a dent so no one wanted it works great for building fiberglass door panels and fitting them .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Mad Scientist said:


> Been lurking on this forum for a long time, but this thread got me thinking.....
> 
> Instead of wrapping the ceiling tiles in a moisture barrier, why not just use a product that already has one? There are a bunch of carpet padding places that offer carpet pads that are resistant to moisture. Granted, carpet padding is usually more dense than acoustic tile, is heavier, but at the price point, why not try it?
> 
> I wonder if it's possible to get sheet metal from Home Depot and build a make-shift car door to test this and other materials.


Pic or link of the product you are referring to?

Keep in mind, moisture resistant is not the same thing as moisture proof. 

And someone posted a link earlier about how denser is not always better for absorption. It might even be in this thread. I'm on my phone and can't look at the moment. 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## ballz50401 (Apr 14, 2018)

I just picked up all of the materials to try this out! Now I just need to find the time to get this treatment done.

I recently treated the trunk and roof of my IS350. Still need to do some work to the rear deck before I treat the doors.

I'm planning on deadening both the inner and outer front door panels and skin, installing the plastic wrapped FG, and use some CCF for those nasty midbass vibrations. Picked up some galvanized steel sheets to seal off the door.

It's going to be tough working inside the doors. Not much room!

Not sure if I'll have room for MLV, but I'll add some at a later time if possible.

The factory Mark Levinson midbass drivers are also going to be relieved of their duties. The SI TM65 mkI's are going to be taking over.


----------



## S6Per (May 22, 2016)

Really interesting thread. Thanks all!

I had some batted fiberglass laying around and gave it a try in my driver side door. I can't articulate it clearly but it made a difference.

After looking around some myself, and taking a look at my door internals, I know I can fit 2" thick board, and to me it looks like the Rockwool Rockboard 80 is the one.









Bonus: in stock at a lumber yard 30 minutes away so I can save the $45 shipping that it would've been. I plan on doing both front doors and seeing where else I can fit it in (rears even though I have no rear fill, perhaps quarter panels, etc.) to further combat road noise.


----------



## S6Per (May 22, 2016)

Just looking at it a bit more and explaining why I'm choosing Rockboard vs Owens 703 (and inviting opinions on this / confirmation that I'm thinking about it correctly!).

703 has an NRC of 1.0 while the Rockboard has .9...so it's 'worse' than the 703 (and I have no idea how different a 1.0 is from a .9).

While all frequencies are fairly close, I see one of the biggest deltas in the lowest, 125hz, and I'm looking for this to help with absorbing backwaves from my woofer. While obviously not that helpful for the sub 125hz frequencies, I figure the lower the better for that task, and here the Rockboard is .43 vs 703 at .17










Not sure my decision making basis is sound? (Not sure it matters all that much either)


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

S6Per said:


> Just looking at it a bit more and explaining why I'm choosing Rockboard vs Owens 703 (and inviting opinions on this / confirmation that I'm thinking about it correctly!).
> 
> 703 has an NRC of 1.0 while the Rockboard has .9...so it's 'worse' than the 703 (and I have no idea how different a 1.0 is from a .9).
> 
> ...


I used the same thinking when deciding to use Roxul over FG... better coefficient in the midbass frequencies.

I too found the Roxul 80 to have the best coefficients but it was not easily available to me. So, I used 1" roxul AFB in my doors because some parts of my doors would only allow for 1" thickness. Other parts of the doors that allowed 2" thickness got 2 layers with scrap pieces of mlv in between. This is documented in posts 162, 166, 168, and 179 of my build log: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/303082-2015-toyota-camry-xle-v6-5.html#post5525129


----------



## S6Per (May 22, 2016)

Truthunter said:


> I used the same thinking when deciding to use Roxul over FG... better coefficient in the midbass frequencies.
> 
> I too found the Roxul 80 to have the best coefficients but it was not easily available to me. So, I used 1" roxul AFB in my doors because some parts of my doors would only allow for 1" thickness. Other parts of the doors that allowed 2" thickness got 2 layers with scrap pieces of mlv in between. This is documented in posts 162, 166, 168, and 179 of my build log: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/303082-2015-toyota-camry-xle-v6-5.html#post5525129


Got it, and thanks for the link! Will be catching up on your project all up next opportunity  Nice to see how you tackled this, too, i.e. the templates. I'll take a similar approach.


----------



## jrock645 (Apr 15, 2015)

What about using HMF for doing this? It absorbs sound and is completely waterproof.


----------



## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

jrock645 said:


> What about using HMF for doing this? It absorbs sound and is completely waterproof.


That could work too and would likely be easier to work with but I believe the absorption coefficients are a little higher in the mid-bass frequencies with the mineral wool (rockwool, ROXUL) material.


----------



## criddopher (Apr 3, 2011)

looking at the chart is seems like the fluffy pink is better than the tiles correct? I have a ton of insulation laying around from remodeling my house, anyone know if it is best to leave the stuff uncompressed or would I be better off stuffing the fiberglass as dense as I can while allowing my windows to move?

*edit* I read that link and im not following it. Seems to say dense is good as long as its not too dense. I don't get where the break is.


----------



## S6Per (May 22, 2016)

Looks the 'pink fluffy stuff' comes in 2.5" width at minimum, which I'm not sure many can fit? Not too sure on how dense is too dense.


----------



## mojozoom (Feb 11, 2012)

Babs said:


> I had some amazingly frustrating phase issues regardless of driver before that were measurable in phase response as well as frequency response.. I could be timed perfect up top and completely out of phase in various regions.. Folks would tell me, ah that's the center console, etc etc. Nope.. It was backwave energy through the driver, through the door into door card, everywhere. Even with CLD and a CCF/MLV layer between card and door. After doing the work the difference was immediate, measurable and confirmable.


Babs do you have more info on what you were seeing? I've been wondering about the backwave coming through the driver as well, as the phase issues in the 100-200 hz region I'm seeing seem to behave differently at different volume levels. I wouldn't expect that behavior from a simple reflection from the dash or console. I've learned a heck of a lot about 2nd order all pass filters in the process, but it's never quite perfect...


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

mojozoom said:


> Babs do you have more info on what you were seeing? I've been wondering about the backwave coming through the driver as well, as the phase issues in the 100-200 hz region I'm seeing seem to behave differently at different volume levels. I wouldn't expect that behavior from a simple reflection from the dash or console. I've learned a heck of a lot about 2nd order all pass filters in the process, but it's never quite perfect...



You’ve actually researched it more than I.. I noticed a bad suck out at 159 hz that was lessened by the treatment but not completely eradicated. On a phase graph in AudioTools Transfer Function, my left midbass has a deeper phase wrap there where it dips, goes completely out, wraps back around then right in line with the right midbass. This after confirming timing and phase. It’s less now but still there. Isn’t car audio fun. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## S6Per (May 22, 2016)

Got the Rockboard 80 installed in the driver's side door. Details here. So far, so good! It does make an audible difference.


----------

