# What would cause an amp not to come out of the "protect" mode?



## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

As part of my seemingly never ending saga of trying to get my audio system up and running but never being able to, I discovered my amp is in the "protect" mode. When I got my 9887 back from repairs yesterday I decided to install it today. The first step was to set my amp gains. I disconnected my sub output speaker leads and turned both amp gains all the way down. I have a Kicker KX 600.4 and on the end of the chassis it has a green power light, and a red protect light. The red protect light is on and can't figure out why. I checked my input and remote turn-on voltages, and I also checked my speaker leads for my comps to check for shorts. Everything checked out fine and can't see any reason at all for the amp to be in the protect mode......unless there's a problem with the amp. Do any of you have ideas as to why this thing would be stuck in protect?

I was looking for an excuse to buy a more powerful amp anyway and this was the ticket. I found a slightly used Alpine MRV-F545 of ebay for $190 so I bought it. I'm just wondering if it would be worth my while to have this Kicker amp repaired. I probably won't use this amp again, but I suppose you never know. I never hurts to have spare audio gear laying around just for a rainy day. Are there any reputable amp repair places? I wonder if I could send it back to Kicker for repair?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

The protect circuit looks for certain things

DC on the outouts (Blown finals)
Really low freq input
Really high freq outoput (oscillation)
High temp

My guess it that it's got DC onthe output or it thinks it's in thermal danger.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Wether it's worth it fpr you to have the amp repaired....thats up to you.

Are there other things that your money would be better spent than repairing an amp that has no collectible value and isn't in high demand?


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Why did you disconnect the subwoofer leads before setting the gain?

You have to be able to hear it to do so...unless you are planning on using the incredibly lame DMM method. If so, don't.


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## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

chad said:


> The protect circuit looks for certain things
> 
> DC on the outouts (Blown finals)
> Really low freq input
> ...


So in otherwords, you're saying there's a problem with the amp because there are no external problems?


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## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

GlasSman said:


> Wether it's worth it fpr you to have the amp repaired....thats up to you.
> 
> Are there other things that your money would be better spent than repairing an amp that has no collectible value and isn't in high demand?


If I decided to have the amp repaired it wouldn't be because of its marketability (or lack thereof), it would be only so I'd have a spare amp around in case I needed it for experimentation or troubleshooting sometime in the future. If I can get it repaired for $100 or less, I'll probably do so, but I'm obviously not going to spend more than the amp's worth to get it fixed.


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## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

89grand said:


> Why did you disconnect the subwoofer leads before setting the gain?
> 
> You have to be able to hear it to do so...unless you are planning on using the incredibly lame DMM method. If so, don't.


You sound like you're itching for a fight, so I'm not even going there. All I will say is not setting my gains properly to begin with is what got me in the mess I'm now in (the purpetual troubleshooting mode I've been in for the last 2 months). While you may not like the DMM version of gain setting, it's a SAFE method and I don't have to worry about having anything so far out of whack that I end up blowing something (like an amp).


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

grampi said:


> You sound like you're itching for a fight, so I'm not even going there. All I will say is not setting my gains properly to begin with is what got me in the mess I'm now in (the purpetual troubleshooting mode I've been in for the last 2 months). While you may not like the DMM version of gain setting, it's a SAFE method and I don't have to worry about having anything so far out of whack that I end up blowing something (like an amp).


You're kidding right? Itching for a fight...did you notice the smiley at the end of the post?

The DMM method is not safe, it's not effective and only leads to less power than you expected

With that said, go ahead and use it. I wouldn't want to hurt any feelings by telling the truth about this even though nearly everyone here now knows this to be true.


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## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

89grand said:


> You're kidding right? Itching for a fight...did you notice the smiley at the end of the post?
> 
> The DMM method is not safe, it's not effective and only leads to less power than you expected
> 
> With that said, go ahead and use it. I wouldn't want to hurt any feelings by telling the truth about this even though nearly everyone here now knows this to be true.


Okay, I'll bite. What is the proper way of setting your gains?


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

grampi said:


> Okay, I'll bite. What is the proper way of setting your gains?


Well, I don't know how many amps you have, but let's say you have an active system comprising of 3 amps (typical system for this site). Gain setting goes as follows:

1. Set the gain for the midbass speaker by ear using an average recording ( not overly loud or low compared to others), listening for obvious signs of distortion and using most the HU's volume control (if the HU's volume control goes to 60, set it at 50, or lower if the head distorts earlier, though most good heads dont). Once satisfied with the loudness before distortion in relation the HU's volume control level, leave it alone.

2. Set you tweeter amp's gain for the appropriate level for the tweeters in relation to the midbass speakers.

3. Do the same with the subwoofer.


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## grampi (Jun 29, 2007)

89grand said:


> Well, I don't know how many amps you have, but let's say you have an active system comprising of 3 amps (typical system for this site). Gain setting goes as follows:
> 
> 1. Set the gain for the midbass speaker by ear using an average recording ( not overly loud or low compared to others), listening for obvious signs of distortion and using most the HU's volume control (if the HU's volume control goes to 60, set it at 50, or lower if the head distorts earlier, though most good heads dont). Once satisfied with the loudness before distortion in relation the HU's volume control level, leave it alone.
> 
> ...


Sounds reasonable. I don't see any reason why I couldn't use this method, but let me ask you this; what makes this a better method than using a DMM? It seems to me the DMM method is a more precise way of gain setting.


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## drake78 (May 27, 2007)

internal short, defective temp sensor


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## jj_diamond (Oct 3, 2007)

grampi said:


> Sounds reasonable. I don't see any reason why I couldn't use this method, but let me ask you this; what makes this a better method than using a DMM? It seems to me the DMM method is a more precise way of gain setting.


http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26924&highlight=gain+setting


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## Syracuse Customs (Oct 6, 2007)

In the past using kicker amps Try leaving the amp grounded and jumping the turn on lead and battery lead this will discharge the caps inside and hopefuly reset the protection circuits. It may not work but its worth a try.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

grampi said:


> Sounds reasonable. I don't see any reason why I couldn't use this method, but let me ask you this; what makes this a better method than using a DMM? It seems to me the DMM method is a more precise way of gain setting.


Gotta load the amp, it will make more voltage without clipping unloaded.

How do you know you are not clipping the amp while using the DMM, even after you hit the rails the RMS voltage goes up as clipping becomes more severe, a DMM is generally not a peak reading device


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## Diru (May 23, 2006)

ruffryderso said:


> In the past using kicker amps Try leaving the amp grounded and jumping the turn on lead and battery lead this will discharge the caps inside and hopefuly reset the protection circuits. It may not work but its worth a try.


ummm nice idea but you think you might like to add like.

Disconnect the power and remote wires before you take those terminals to ground[amp power negative].


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