# 2014 Accord IB install



## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

After waiting for more than a year, I finally broke down for a little trunk/sub stage upgrade. Was originally running a single ID 15 but was a little lacking for my taste. Picked up a pair of AE IB15's from BuickGN last year but had them stashed under my bed since their arrival. This is partly a shout out to him as well to see they are put to good use. This is not a start from scratch install, mainly just focusing on rear end. So let's get after it.

My least favorite part. Necessary due to moving the DSP-Z8 under the pass seat.







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Some baffle work





Interior gettin' buttoned up


Next, cleaning up the trunk


This is where it's at now


Will be back at it tomorrow to finish up some trim panels and the floor area. Been trying to sit on it a couple of days to let the ideas come.

I am absolutely sold on IB. Definitely a lot more work than just building a box, but oh so worth it. I had read one of BuickGN's post when he was selling the AE's and had one last session with them before removing them. He commented on just how little they actually move while still putting out plenty of volume. I can confirm this as well. There's still a ton of tuning to do as I went active in the front as well. Will be spending a couple of weeks with this process. Overall, extremely happy with the outcome of this. I had always imagined IB as being weak with little output. Ignorance on my part with absolutely no previous experience or ear time. Excellent extension, clean........and I've got more of my trunk back. Thanks GN for these. I will also throw in an apology for the lack of in depth, detailed break down of everything. Some was done a year ago, and some now. Will post more when the trunk is finished and the back seats get some expanded metal venting.
Comments, criticism welcomed.


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## D_Hoody (Nov 10, 2014)

Looking forward to the rest of the build. Any build pics/info of the front stage?


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## Bev-o (Jul 16, 2015)

Looks great!

IB is such a great idea, if I had a car I would do this for sure!


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

That looks awesome. I have a 2014 and haven't gotten to the building my IB baffle yet.

Where are your mounting points and I assume you had to cut the front of the side trunk pieces?


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## YukonXL04 (Mar 6, 2014)

Congrats on finally doing it. My wife's car has been without bass for a few years now due to her wanting her trunk back. I finally tried IB out myself and am completely sold on it. Like you I was very skeptical of the idea. I'm really glad I was wrong. Install looks great! Good job!


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## idelgado782 (May 25, 2015)

Does the accord have Bluetooth hands free? If so what did you do with anc? We just installed a sub in gf's 2015 accord and disconnected both anc in the front and back and apparently one was connected to her mic so now when on a call the person on be other end can't hear her


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

D_Hoody said:


> Looking forward to the rest of the build. Any build pics/info of the front stage?


Unfortunately not. The front was all done last year, and this is the first time I've actually took pics of my progress. I usually just hunker down and get after it.



FunkPnut said:


> That looks awesome. I have a 2014 and haven't gotten to the building my IB baffle yet.
> 
> Where are your mounting points and I assume you had to cut the front of the side trunk pieces?


There's two seperate braces that bolt in the opening from the cabin to the trunk. 4 on each side, 2 at the top (flange just below the seat latch), and 4 across the bottom (bolted into channel running along the bottom of the opening). And you are correct. The trunk linings had to be cut. Picked up some new ones to cut up.




idelgado782 said:


> Does the accord have Bluetooth hands free? If so what did you do with anc? We just installed a sub in gf's 2015 accord and disconnected both anc in the front and back and apparently one was connected to her mic so now when on a call the person on be other end can't hear her
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Indeed it has BT. I only disconnected the ANC module just below the factory HU in the dash. Didn't touch the mics. No problems with handsfree.


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## idelgado782 (May 25, 2015)

HK53sbr said:


> Unfortunately not. The front was all done last year, and this is the first time I've actually took pics of my progress. I usually just hunker down and get after it.
> 
> 
> There's two seperate braces that bolt in the opening from the cabin to the trunk. 4 on each side, 2 at the top (flange just below the seat latch), and 4 across the bottom (bolted into channel running along the bottom of the opening).
> ...


Thanks for that. It's on the passengers side correct? I remember seeing a video somewhere. I'll try that and get back to you. I'm guessing and hoping that it's all the same for 2015 models as well. 

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Spent the afternoon in 100° heat trying to get the trunk completed. Just about there. Only waiting for my expanded metal to come in. One peice will cover the amp, either wrapped in carpet or grill cloth, and three other peices for the rear seat back to aid in venting to the cabin. Factory is full metal back and actually is sealed up quite well between the baffle and the seat back. Noticed it when playing in the trunk and pushing slighty on one of the cones and watching the other move in the opposite direction. They getting a little pressurized in there right now. Need to free 'em up.




Gonna spend the next couple of days with the laptop and the DSP. Thanks for the comments.


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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

Looks sweet man


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

idelgado782 said:


> Thanks for that. It's on the passengers side correct? I remember seeing a video somewhere. I'll try that and get back to you. I'm guessing and hoping that it's all the same for 2015 models as well.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk


Yes, there's a small panel on the left side of pass footwell that you partially remove. Look up "9th gen Accord ANC disable" for video. Pretty quick to do unless you've got big mitts. Should be the same for '15.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

WhereAmEye? said:


> Looks sweet man


Appreciate it. In the past I've usually gone a little more for presentation, for myself mostly, but times have changed. Being a family man now requires keeping some important stuff............like a spare. Just wanted simple, hidden, and can take throwing stuff in the trunk without the worry of punctured cones and scratched amps.


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## TreyE (Jul 24, 2015)

Looks great, have a 2011 Accord Coupe here. I have never done IB, I currently am running a IDMAX 12 V4 in a ported box sealed with a beauty panel facing in cabin similar to yours. Do you have to do any additional work to do IB, or is sealing it off easiest? How is output compared to sealed/ported? Sorry for all the ?'s im curious, or if you have a thread that taught you some point me in the right direction? Thanks!


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

I spent 2 days sealing the rear deck and baffle. A beefy baffle is needed as well, along with plenty anchor points. Output is what you'd expect from a sealed system. It sounds like a couple of 15's. As far as threads, this forum is the place to be. I read as much as I could from people's experiences, what's involved, and what's to be expected. I've always run sealed in the past. Haven't had a vehicle that was IB friendly til now. So far, I'm a happy camper.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

This came out awesome ,if only I had the time to it again in my '11 Accord I'd be a happy camper as well.I miss my last IB set up I had,it sounded killer.Keep up the good work.


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

HK53sbr said:


> There's two seperate braces that bolt in the opening from the cabin to the trunk. 4 on each side, 2 at the top (flange just below the seat latch), and 4 across the bottom (bolted into channel running along the bottom of the opening).


Do you have any other pictures of the braces and mounting points you used? I can see the 4 at the bottom but can not see the other attachment points in the pictures. 

Also do you have any pictures of what you did to seal up the rear deck? 

I have a 2013 Sport and am planning on using a single SBP 15.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Salami said:


> Do you have any other pictures of the braces and mounting points you used? I can see the 4 at the bottom but can not see the other attachment points in the pictures.
> 
> Also do you have any pictures of what you did to seal up the rear deck?
> 
> I have a 2013 Sport and am planning on using a single SBP 15.


Here's the other anchor points circled in red; in addition to the 4 across the bottom.

As for sealing the deck, don't have any good pics of that. Basically, laid on my back with small cut pieces of sound deadener in hand sealing every hole I could see from the trunk opening to where the baffle mounts. On the top of the deck, I used CCF to cover the speaker openings with a layer of insulating radiant barrier over the entire deck before mounting the tray. Denim insulation was also used to stuff any channels in the frame/body in the trunk and deck. You can see some of it in the latch cavity for the seat back.


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## xrdcarbon (Jul 27, 2015)

that's great


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Just got some Dyn 162's from a member here. 

A little moisture protection

The previous HAT Imagine 6.5's with ID tweeters

And the "new" Dyn's; factory tweeter housing holding ID XS-28's (I miss my NX-30's.......liked 'em better)

Had to do some fiddling with the EQ, as the Dyn's are a tad brighter in the upper vocal range..........in a good way. I felt the Imagine's were a little dark sounding for my taste but excellent midbass. Figured I go back to Dyn's as my previous car with 172's and NX-30's was simply awesome. Would love to stuff some 8's in the doors.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Very badass man ! I wanna ib something bad


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Did you go with 3/4" or 1" for the front speaker baffles?


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

What part of Tejas?

Looks good!


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Did you go with 3/4" or 1" for the front speaker baffles?


They are 3/4". Still have a little room, but not much.



bassfromspace said:


> What part of Tejas?
> 
> Looks good!


Appreciate it. Houston area.....


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Thanks for responding HK,I might have to go back 3/4" myself because I get the feeling the surround on the mid is making contact with the doorcard


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

No problem. Got more changes on the way. Foregoing the factory head unit for an aftermarket unit, new amps, new front stage..........never ending.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

HK53sbr said:


> never ending.


Story of every DIYMA member's life.

This thread has really helped me out in working on my close to completion baffle.

4 questions.

What size bolts did you end up using? I was planning on using 5/16", but was questioning if maybe I should jump up to 3/8"?

Did you end up modifying your backseats yet? I think you were going to cut out parts of the back and use perforated metal? Pics or didn't happen! ;D

How are the rattles?

Are you replacing the stock radio or doing putting one in the lower pocket?


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

FunkPnut said:


> Story of every DIYMA member's life.
> 
> This thread has really helped me out in working on my close to completion baffle.
> 
> ...


I have this site to blame for the procrastinating stopping point. Certainly if I wasn't here, I would have already called it "good". Get to see a lot of cool ideas hanging out around here.

The bolts? I believe I used 3/8" lag bolts 1 1/4" long. Baffle is 1.5" thick.

Back seats have been cut but not yet installed expanded metal. Stuff I ordered was not what I expected. But.........I didn't make huge holes. I was trying to get it done before heading out for the day and was a bit rushed. No time for pictures. Selfish, I know. I saved the cut pieces and will snap a pic if you want; to give you an idea.

I have one rattle from that damn rear deck, not bad though. Only notice it at a certain frequency if the song is a little thick in the bass. No way to adjust bass level. 

The factory head unit is not doing it for me. Got inspired by KHA after reading through his build log. I'm just about finished with modifying the pocket, the same pocket KHA used. Need some more filling and sanding, almost there. I don't like being without the means to control the sub level. I listen to everything under the sun and one setting just can't make it happen. Far too many fluctuations between albums. Some way too heavy while others sound like a clock radio. Factory head unit sounds like the tone control is centered at 250hz(sarcazm). Either way, it does nothing in the bass region. Can't wait to get the 80prs installed. 

Hope this helps.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

So next up after finishing the Pioneer head unit and steering wheel control:
Already received the L3SE's and Clarus 6 mid basses. (Thank you Huckleberry Sound!)
Got an order in for 4 Zapco ST-D.BT amps from him as well. At that price point, I couldn't resist. One ST-204D.BT and three ST-402D.BT's. Gonna result in quite a bit of headroom. L3 in the A-pillars, Clarus mid bass in stock door location. 402 on the L3's, 204 bridged to the mid basses, one 402 for each IB15. This is my plan anyway........got lots more to do. That and just ordered an Odyssey battery today as well. Stock 51 battery is anemic at most.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Maybe install a PAC LC-1 temporarily,it does the job for me quite nicely.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

I had considered it, but the factory head unit also suffers from a pretty good bass roll-off. The difference in DSP presets between it and an iStreamer is roughly a 6db higher gain to achieve staisfactory results. It sounds good.......but still lacking.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

HK53sbr said:


> I had considered it, but the factory head unit also suffers from a pretty good bass roll-off. The difference in DSP presets between it and an iStreamer is roughly a 6db higher gain to achieve staisfactory results. It sounds good.......but still lacking.


In my '11 Accord I needed some kind of control over the sub.I just wanted to keep it simple with stock HU/LOC/5ch amp simply because stock sounded like crap.At one time I installed a DD HU and yanked it back out after a week cause I couldn't stand the look of it .The last couple of Gen Accords were not made with aftermarket in mind as far as the sound system goes.


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm anxious to see how the new H/U turns out!


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

HK53sbr said:


> Hope this helps.


Heck yeah! I got the baffle in this weekend. Your pics and insight made it 10x easier.

Thanks!


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

HK53sbr said:


> The factory head unit is not doing it for me. Got inspired by KHA after reading through his build log. I'm just about finished with modifying the pocket, the same pocket KHA used. Need some more filling and sanding, almost there. I don't like being without the means to control the sub level. I listen to everything under the sun and one setting just can't make it happen. Far too many fluctuations between albums. Some way too heavy while others sound like a clock radio. Factory head unit sounds like the tone control is centered at 250hz(sarcazm). Either way, it does nothing in the bass region. Can't wait to get the 80prs installed.


I'm sure thats going to be a solid improvement.

If you haven't ordered paint yet, try SEM Satin Black on your pocket. Its not a 100% match, but its blends pretty well.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Spent the day installing the new head unit and PAC SWI-RC. I'm horrible with taking pictures on progress, so please forgive. I get all involved in getting it completed and don't stop til it's done..........not even for pics.

Primer phase....

Installed......

It's not perfect as there's still some imperfections. I will pull it and refinish once I find a better paint, maybe some textured. The flat black is a tad bland.

I'm just happy as can be to have some control and the ability to make fine adjustments. Sub control - check
While the 80prs has way more than I need, I do like having the eq to do some slight tuning for different tastes of music. Beats having to bounce between my DSP-Z8 presets.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

FunkPnut said:


> I'm sure thats going to be a solid improvement.
> 
> If you haven't ordered paint yet, try SEM Satin Black on your pocket. Its not a 100% match, but its blends pretty well.


I will look into that paint. Appreciate it!


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

HK hang in there,it's looking good bro.Man a DD unit would look sweet in place of the OEM radio. Metra makes a aftermarket dash kit for this Gen. Accord in case you weren't aware.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Metra makes a aftermarket dash kit for this Gen. Accord in case you weren't aware.



The Metra kit is buggy... expensive and buggy.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

FunkPnut said:


> The Metra kit is buggy... expensive and buggy.


What a shame :shame:


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Honestly, I don't really have the desire to run a DD head unit. I lean more towards simplicity these days; from a cosmetic point of view. Of course this could all change next week, tomorrow, or 2 hours from now.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

HK53sbr said:


> Honestly, I don't really have the desire to run a DD head unit. I lean more towards simplicity these days; from a cosmetic point of view. Of course this could all change next week, tomorrow, or 2 hours from now.


I think they look better in your generation than my 2011.But yea you never know what will pop into your head with this hobby of ours.


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

Thanks for posting the picture. I went ahead and bought a pair of AE SBP12's which are going in IB based on your picture/install. 

What did you use to seal the baffle to the metal bracing? It looks like the bottom has some kind of caulk but is the anything else around the perimeter? Do you have any pictures of what you did to the seat back? I am debating if I should cut one giant hole or multiple smaller ones? 

If I can figure out the few details I am missing I am going to start this weekend. 




HK53sbr said:


> Here's the other anchor points circled in red; in addition to the 4 across the bottom.
> 
> As for sealing the deck, don't have any good pics of that. Basically, laid on my back with small cut pieces of sound deadener in hand sealing every hole I could see from the trunk opening to where the baffle mounts. On the top of the deck, I used CCF to cover the speaker openings with a layer of insulating radiant barrier over the entire deck before mounting the tray. Denim insulation was also used to stuff any channels in the frame/body in the trunk and deck. You can see some of it in the latch cavity for the seat back.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Salami said:


> Thanks for posting the picture. I went ahead and bought a pair of AE SBP12's which are going in IB based on your picture/install.
> 
> What did you use to seal the baffle to the metal bracing? It looks like the bottom has some kind of caulk but is the anything else around the perimeter? Do you have any pictures of what you did to the seat back? I am debating if I should cut one giant hole or multiple smaller ones?
> 
> If I can figure out the few details I am missing I am going to start this weekend.


Good choice on the subs. I recently picked up a pair of SBP15's. Curious how they're going to stack up against my AU's. 

As for sealing the baffle, yes there is a small bead of silicone along the bottom. The rest of it I used 1/4" CCF sandwiched in there. Still haven't gotten around to getting pics of the cut seat back, but I will when I get back in there to swap out subs and hopefully some new amplification. Happy building with the IB set up. It will be worth it.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

I've heard a pair of SBP15's with the apollo upgrade in a short demo and I was impressed. I should've jumped on those.

Salami, once you get your baffle in, if you're worried about any leaks, just play some bass heavy music and you'll be able to feel air pushing out where it needs to be sealed better.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

FunkPnut said:


> I've heard a pair of SBP15's with the apollo upgrade in a short demo and I was impressed. I should've jumped on those.


I have no doubt that they'll at least sound as good as my current set up.........not to mention they have a more serious look to them with the beefier apollo motors.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

Yeah I really like how the back of baskets and magnets look on those. 
What are you doing with the rest of your system or is that a surprise?


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

No surprises here. Plan to go 3-way up front, class d amplification, swap subs to the SBP's and am tossing around the idea of a Helix Pro. Will need to do some minor modifying of the trunk floor for new amps, glass the a-pillars for the L3se's, and yet again tear out the passenger side interior for another set of rca's and speaker wire. Only downside to all this, I live 3.5 miles from work and it is pretty much the only time I'm alone without the family ride along. Although, I will certainly enjoy that short drive to and fro.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

Nice.

I have a regular Helix and it's awesome, minus having to use a laptop. They keep on updating new features.

I say go for it.


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

Not to hijack, but I didn't want to create a unique thread just for the 9th Gen Accord guys here... Do you think that I'd be able to fit Exodus Anarchy's in my 2013 sedan if I added a 1" spacer and trimmed the inside of the door card?


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

*Update: SBP15's installed*

So took on the sub swap today........was far from a party. Due to space constraints, very little room was left to service the subs. Had two bolts on the bottom of each sub that took way too long to remove and reinstall. Nonetheless, they're in. 
AU vs SBP w/Apollo motor

Was a serious workout holding the sub with one hand while bolting with the other.............this was half-time.

Total time, about 2 1/2 hours. 

I think even if these sounded worse, they'd be staying in. The swap was a pain. Only fired it up and listen to a couple of tracks that I'm quite familiar with. No adjustments were made, even though I'm now running 4ohms mono rather than 2ohms. Output is down, which is to be expected without touching the gains. Went from 1000w to 600w or so. The AU's were very broke in so doing any kind of comparison at the moment would be a moot point. Looking forward to the next couple of weeks to do some tweaking and listening. Also looks like I'll have some new amplification here in a couple of weeks. Will be re-doing the amp rack again. It's starting to get cramped back there the way it's set-up now. Enjoy!!


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

FWIW.......they do indeed produce that smooth AE response. They do feel/sound a little more punchy in the upper sub range, that's about the only difference I can hear so far. Was messing around with the DSP profiles this morning before I decided to swap out the subs, so I gotta load my old "trusty" profile back in there. I've spent the most time with it and know what to expect.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

Those look good. I recall seeing an FR graph on AE's forums where both the AU's and SBP's looked similar. The main difference from what I could tell is that you could load up the trunk without changing the Q much with the SBP's.


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## FunkPnut (May 16, 2008)

And I do remember seeing someone mention that the upper midrange on the SBP's was a little more efficient.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

I saw the same information, and they *are* more efficient up top. They add quite a bit more impact to the midbass. So much so that the front stage sounds completely different than before with sub localization somewhere in the middle of the car to just behind me on certain tracks. I want to spend some time with the RTA and laptop but might as well wait for the amps to arrive. It took me a while to get the AU's dialed and the same applies to now. Still have to muster the energy and time to get the L3's glassed into the a-pillars. More, more, more.........


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## bigjeep127 (May 12, 2013)

HK53sbr said:


> I saw the same information, and they *are* more efficient up top. They add quite a bit more impact to the midbass. So much so that the front stage sounds completely different than before with sub localization somewhere in the middle of the car to just behind me on certain tracks. I want to spend some time with the RTA and laptop but might as well wait for the amps to arrive. It took me a while to get the AU's dialed and the same applies to now. Still have to muster the energy and time to get the L3's glassed into the a-pillars. More, more, more.........


Wow, really cool install. I've got a 2015 Sport and you've got me seriously considering going IB for the first time. Right now I've got 2 10's sealed and I'm fairly happy but not thrilled. They're way too localized to the rear for my taste even though I'm running an MS-8 which is supposed to help with that.

Would you recommend the AE SBP 15's for someone like me who's #1 concern is SQ? I want good range with my subs up into the midbass region like you're saying you get with your setup. I need to find someone in the Atlanta area with IB so I can hear this for myself, sounds almost too good to be true.

Is 12" the way to go for better SQ? I see many who say go as big as possible, sounds counter intuitive. 

I would also love to see pictures of how you cut your rear seat if you've got the time. Thanks for posting this, great work!


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Now just need the time to put them in.........


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

bigjeep127 said:


> Wow, really cool install. I've got a 2015 Sport and you've got me seriously considering going IB for the first time. Right now I've got 2 10's sealed and I'm fairly happy but not thrilled. They're way too localized to the rear for my taste even though I'm running an MS-8 which is supposed to help with that.
> 
> Would you recommend the AE SBP 15's for someone like me who's #1 concern is SQ? I want good range with my subs up into the midbass region like you're saying you get with your setup. I need to find someone in the Atlanta area with IB so I can hear this for myself, sounds almost too good to be true.
> 
> ...


I would certainly recommend going with 15's, if you can fit them. The AE's are geared more toward SQ in my opinion. I've had 15's that were louder, but didn't sound nearly as good as the AE's. They play deep and are accurate. The upper range is just as tasty. For now they are crossed at 75hz, any lower and the mids start struggling at higher volumes. I keep promising to post pictures of my seat back. I have the pieces that I removed below. Then with a pic of a seat back (not mine) to give you an idea of what I did. Hope this helps.


The red outlines are where I cut.


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

Do you run them with the seats up or down? Does it matter?


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

Up, always up. Reason for the breather holes in the seat.


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

TBH, I haven't played around much with the seat up vs down since it's not really an option I've entertained. Kiddo's car seat is riding back there and I don't favor the PITA process of removal/installation. Rather not fool with it. Either way, I have plenty of low end.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Man those cuts are clean and straight,angle grinder?


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## HK53sbr (Jun 15, 2014)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Man those cuts are clean and straight,angle grinder?


Dremel and about 20 cut-off wheels.  Took about 1 1/2 hours of slow steady.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

HK53sbr said:


> Dremel and about 20 cut-off wheels.  Took about 1 1/2 hours of slow steady.


Dremels do work but yea I can see going thru a bunch.Nicely done ??


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

This is a good one!!!


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## bigjeep127 (May 12, 2013)

HK53sbr said:


> I would certainly recommend going with 15's, if you can fit them. The AE's are geared more toward SQ in my opinion. I've had 15's that were louder, but didn't sound nearly as good as the AE's. They play deep and are accurate. The upper range is just as tasty. For now they are crossed at 75hz, any lower and the mids start struggling at higher volumes. I keep promising to post pictures of my seat back. I have the pieces that I removed below. Then with a pic of a seat back (not mine) to give you an idea of what I did. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> The red outlines are where I cut.


Awesome, thanks so much!

Did you end up getting the expanded metal installed? Did you glue, screw, or weld it? Where did you order it from? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm getting really close to trying this. I think I've decided on these instead of the AE's (due to cost).

Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

There's one guy on here who used 1 in IB and said he loved it, I haven't seen anyone who did 2. For the price they seem like a steal and if they don't work out, they're perfect for my home theater sub plans. They have very similar TS parameters to the AE SBP's.


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## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

In on this one


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## cfennessy (Jul 4, 2015)

The seat metal is really not bad to cut


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

bigjeep127 said:


> Awesome, thanks so much!
> 
> Did you end up getting the expanded metal installed? Did you glue, screw, or weld it? Where did you order it from? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm getting really close to trying this. I think I've decided on these instead of the AE's (due to cost).
> 
> ...



Had never given the Dayton RF's a thought for IB. Hmm. Interesting! I can certainly vouch for them in box. Great SQ'y subs. 


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