# Dodge Diesel MegaCab Build...LOTZ OF PIX's



## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Hello everyone Im relitivly new to the site. I have been lurking a long while and its time to share my build in progress...

HU Pioneer avh-p4300dvd
X OVER Clairion MCD360
EQ Audio Controls DQS with DDC
AMPs 1 Alpine PDX-4.150
3 Alpine PDX-1.1000
SUBs 3 JL Audio 12W7
Front & Rear RE Audio XXX6.5c 

The tear out:


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

The Gear


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

The Doors


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Fiberglass box for the 12w7's


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)




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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)




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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Thats What I have sofar...Tell me what you think... Heres a PIX of my truck


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

lookin good so far, my only suggestion is to do the initial mold a bit thicker so it wont warp when you attach more things to it...

b


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Awww yes Waiting on more fiberglass and resin coming from us composites. Should be here monday so knocking out the wood work in the meantime...... i have 5 yards by 50" of 2oz chop mat and 2 gallons on the way.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Nice job so far....wow, how deep are your midbass drivers?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

around 4" maybe a little more


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## m R g S r (Oct 1, 2009)

i hope you plan on sound deadening!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Should be interesting with the way W7's mount...if you recess them you need to leave a fair amount of room around them so you can take off the retaining rings to get at the screws (or for that matter, to install the subs.)

Hope you took that into consideration. Good luck on the rest of the build.

Jay


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

m R g S r- not sure on which brand to go with the deadening.... any suggestions


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

JayinMI - We made test rings to find out what i could get away with on the outer ring then i added an 1/8th"and routered the radius to give some leeway for when i add carpeting


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Good call. I've seen a few people do it without taking that into consideration and then have to start over from scratch.

Jay


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## jab4au (May 31, 2010)

jamesavrit said:


> m R g S r- not sure on which brand to go with the deadening.... any suggestions


Give Rick a shout @ RAAMaudio. Great guy, great product and great price. The BXT II & Ensolite are tough to beat. Also, Rick has always went the extra mile to help me out.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

your mold looks way too thin... i think you'll get a ton of flexing from that, and a if you are going to be using 2 oz mat it's going to take you a while to get the thickness up. i would look into using a heavier mat or even a biaxial.


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## Paul1217 (Aug 12, 2007)

and way more than 2 gallons of resin


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

What are you going to do about the vents your covering on the back wall? When you close your doors its going to be painful! I am VERY interested in those comps so please keep us posted on those too My guess is that that amp would be better suited for just one set of those rather then two especially with the mass amounts of low end your putting in there! Your truck looks AWESOME by the way! Good luck with the build and thanks for sharing!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

took another look at it

please dont take this the wrong way and i know you have already built the box...but this is one of those instances where i personally would have built hte subbox out of MDF...you gain very little airspace by going with glass, instead, it just takes a log longer, have greater chances of not looking right, flexing, air leaking...you know?

its all straight angles there 

and becuase you molded to the sides right to the trim, if you get any kind of outward flex, or if you plan to reinforce the mold at all from the outside, or if you use thick enough carpet to cover the box, its not going to go back into the truck correctly...i would hate for you to find that out after spenidng all the time and effort on the box outside the truck...

just my two bits.

b


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Agree w/ Bing on this one... You've just spent lots of time and money on some that should hav cheap quick and easy... I am confident that the end result will look good but am not confident that it will perform well... Then again you aren't done glassing and probably have plans to reinforce it more.

I haven't had the pleasure of playing in a mega cab yet but am really looking foward to the opportunity-


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Your both right. I have 4 layers anywhere the the wood is in contact at this point and 2 layers for the shell in general. I have alot more glassing to go on the interior. Any bibles between layers or the wood seams I punches a small hole with the dremel and used a 20cc syringe with a 18 gauge needle to fill the voids for added integrity. There's much work to go on the inside before I cap the top off and glass the the inside. Any input is great and keep it coming


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Im alternating between chopatt and the biaxeal woven tape to get the best strength in all directions. And to answer then vent blocking question I built tunnels into the back mold with cardboard and the 2" blue 3m tape that I have grown to love.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

The RE Audio XXX6.5C are awesome so far and when they do get broken in I was thinking of getting bandpass crossovers and running the midbass on the Alpine PDX-4.150 and getting a Alpine PDX-4.100 to run the highs on, if that's even doable?


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - (in regards to the vents and the power setup for the comps!!!!!!)
Keep it up


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Rexroadj - So what's out there fore bandpass crossovers that will allow me to go active on those components?


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## rexroadj (Oct 31, 2008)

Good ? There are a few but most that come to mind would require two seperate units (one for front and one for rear) and thats just silly with all the new toys coming out. I would start looking into the new Rockford 363. Its far beyond anything they have done in the past and offers a new level of tweakability for your whole system. Could be a VERY worthy addition for the sake of your whole system.... Just my opinion though?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

I don't mind two of them if I can get them cheap


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

TheDavel said:


> I haven't had the pleasure of playing in a mega cab yet but am really looking foward to the opportunity-


I love my megacab, you can play in mine if you want LOL.


jamesavrit. Please dont take this the wrong way, just constructive criticism here. the component speakers sticking through the door cards looks bad. i understand you probably had to do that for clearance because the XXXs are DEEP. I would assume the speakers are mounted to the door itself and stick through a hole in the doorcard. If hats the case, what i would do is make a cosmetic cover the same color as the doorcard out of 3/4 MDF rounded over or routed with a 45 degree chamfer with some perforated metal or plastic across the top. then cover it with grill cloth and screw it to the doorcard from the backside. How come you didnt run your speaker wire through the rubber boot? The molex plug is a pain in the ass to deal with but it can be done. took me about an hour per door. How come you have the speaker wires popping out of the doorcard in the front of the map pockets? i cant wait to see the sub box completed. I would assume you will be able to remove it to service your power slider if the need arises (the only option my truck doesnt have, and Im glad)


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

King nothing- all day every day! I do not charge either... Materials covered but the customer is all I've ever asked...


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

TheDavel said:


> King nothing- all day every day! I do not charge either... Materials covered but the customer is all I've ever asked...


Sweet, you should be able to get here in 2 days if you drive straight through LOL


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

I ran the the rear door molex's, but until i pull the dash and doors apart for deadening I didn't have access to the inner molex on the fronts. I'm still testing what works for me and what dose not and I might bi-wire for actives so i would have to redo it anyways. I like the door discard idea you have, anyway you could draw me a picture of how you are describing it? Or show me an example? I have months to work on this install as this is my toy truck for vacations and week long getaways. See I;m a Deep Sea diver and work offshore "Gulf of Mexico" or over seas for weeks to months at a time. My 02 Tacoma X-cab is my daily driver for fuel economy.


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

I have no idea how i could get you a picture. unfortunately, i have ideas running through my head all the time that make perfect sense, yet i have a very hard time relating them to others LOL. maybe i can draw something up with a sharpie then take a pic of it with my phone and post it LOL. I dont have nor know how to use any computer programs that could illustrate it.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

I never wanted to cut threw but I had no choice. I'm open to ideas


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Looks good so far. I have a mega I am going to be tearing into this year as well. Once all the gear is here. What is the mounting depth on your box? And does the baffle sit right tight to the rear seat when it is in the upright position?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Well I removed that rear storage box and the side covers that cover the gap between rear seat and the storage box ..... let me go take a few pics and Ill be right back...


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Yeah I have already removed my storage box and the 2 spring loaded panels. I was checking depths, and not entirely sure on usable depth, but since you had one there, I figured I could snag a measurement.


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

I really wish i could relate this idea i have to you because i think it would look great and work well. If you have ever seen the large cabinet speakers for the home that were popular in the 80s/early 90s they all had a grill/cover on them that was a frame with grill cloth stretched over it, usually held on by a plastic pin that fit into a socket in the cabinet. My idea is to make a "frame" out of 3x4 MDF that follows the lines on your doorcard outside the speaker. chamfer the edges 45 degrees and stretch grill cloth over it. if I have time tomorrow maybe i can mock something up in cardboard. i have the same truck so maybe you can get a better idea.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Sorry for the dark photos but it is night time. I threw the top board on too even though its a little warped at the moment...... theres 2 3/4" from the front of the box to the closest past of the seat plus the 3/4" set back from the mounting rings. So that gives me 3 1/2 inches of clearance from mounting depth...


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

And what are the dimensions of your box? 

60" Wide
xx" Top
xx" Bottom
xx" High

Sorry for the questions, but I am 7 hrs away from my truck working at the moment.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

from the mounting depth the the back wall is 11.5" dead center of the sub


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

just a min brb....


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

width top is 61.25 
width botoom is 61.75
depth top is 8
depth bottom is 12
heigth 23.5


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

You sir are the man.....thank you very much. Hopefully we can give each other tips and pointers on install. 

Are you porting or staying sealed?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Sealed


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

You should end up with about 6 cubes after displacement. Very nice.


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## Dieselhed (Jan 1, 2011)

Cool build. About time somebody showed a Mega Cab build. Planning on doing mine this year as well. Is that a Leer 100xq shell on your truck?


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subscribed. I really want to see how this turns out.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

LEER-100XQ indeed howed you know


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

this is the first time all the pics have loaded for me... which is bad for you... if you take my advice that is.... 

You should have double baffled the mounting area for the W7's JL calls for it and just speaking from experience they have been known over time to pull their screws out due to their weight when mounted vertical.... those are some massively heavy beasts... you should be able to get away with a threaded insert in your case because you have pretty much passed the point of no return...

Either way its looking great and you are well on your way to blurred vision and breathing problems in your car-


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

TheDavel said:


> Either way its looking great and you are well on your way to blurred vision and breathing problems in your car-


Those are gonna be nasty in the cab of that truck...


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

TheDavel - Im far from the point of no return... So your saying that I need a thicker mounting ring for the w7? Ok then how thick? Did you not see the 2x4 chunks of lumber on to the left and right of each sub cutout that extends to the rear of the box? was going to sink 5" stainless steel screws in those 2 spots after fiber glassing the entire inside of the box 3 or 4 more layers.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

I still have time to pull off the front part and add another ring, thanks for your input its greatly appreciated.


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

No less than 1 inch with metal inserts is what I'd do or just a double baffled 3/4's inch mdf face giving you a total of 1.5 inches thick is what I always did when working at all the shops I've worked at...

I've seen w7 10s pull screws and the sub clean out of a box over about a 3 month period... It was in 3/4 inch mdf... Done at a reputable shop to boot-

that's just my opinion based on experience and I'd hate to see such a great effort have any negative consequences


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## Eastman474 (Jan 8, 2010)

I'd use a bit more chop mat on the shell... other than that it looks real cool.. interested in seeing how this turns out


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

TheDavel said:


> this is the first time all the pics have loaded for me... which is bad for you... if you take my advice that is....
> 
> You should have double baffled the mounting area for the W7's JL calls for it and just speaking from experience they have been known over time to pull their screws out due to their weight when mounted vertical.... those are some massively heavy beasts... you should be able to get away with a threaded insert in your case because you have pretty much passed the point of no return...
> 
> Either way its looking great and you are well on your way to blurred vision and breathing problems in your car-



The above should have read that JL calls for a 1" baffle...


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

well i started working on the wireing today and got a 290 AMP 290XP Series Alternator coming from Nation Starter & Alternator,Tractor Auto,Marine,Truck,Small Engine. very helpfull over the phone and great customer care. Also installed 2 Red Tops for my diesel


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)




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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

I moved all the factory wiring down to the side post to leave all the top mounts for my 0 gauge wire upgrades. The dodge has 2 gauge on each battery grounding to the motor and frame already from the factory. i beefed up some other wires to 4 gauge and a grounding spot on the fender well were a bunch of factory grounds go to..... started it up for a test run and noticed it started easier and idels much better now since putting in bigger lines


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

with all the pdx amps going in there total fuse's add up to 400amp.. is it ok to run 1 0 gauge all the way back or do i need 2 runs of 0 gauge all the way for that amperage?


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

What'd they bang ya for the cost on that alt?


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

And for 400 amps...I would do 2 runs....better to have extra than be short....

Even though 1 run should be rated for 300 amps at 50ft.....I would do 2. Because you will probably have 18-20 ft to the amp, and 18-20 ft back for the ground....so 2 runs wouldn't be overkill, but safe.





Oh and lovin the S&B intake. 

What series edge box ya got? I have an ez, but that's just till I get the goerend tranny.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

they had a 220amp for $475.00 and the 290amp for $590.00 both prices were shipped with 2 year warrenty and if it goes out past the 2 years its $120.00 for an overhaul. Any one need a 136amp alternator? lol


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Build a dual alt bracket and run both....


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

so all the wires for power and ground have copper lugs crimped and silver soldered then double heat shrinked... I also now have 2/0 awg running from the battery to the distrabution block for the amps


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Hummmm a double you say? 290+136=426amps sounds tempting espeacialy when i go for the air compressor install soon to power the ARB lockers and Kelderman airide..


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Yeah I been looking around for a bracket.....I think mechman can make one. Mine is an 07 5.9. So maybe we can get a discount for 2....lol.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

There's no difference between yours and mine except the badges are different. You have the 48re trans?


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

yup....48re

And yeah, I have an early 07, so still the 5.9 isb.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

CHEMMINS any word on the dual alt bracket


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Prolly be $500 per bracket, so he says. Need to try to find something a lil more cost effective.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

yea that's way too pricy. 
Good news Is that the fiber glass came in last night and the 290amp Alt just arived 
TIME TO GET BACK TO WORK


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

I wish US Comp shipped to Canada.....gonna have to find a local boat builder I guess.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)




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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

getting the the wiring ready to turn on the amps seperatly from the dash


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

jamesavrit said:


> getting the the wiring ready to turn on the amps seperatly from the dash


You doing separate switches for every amps remote turn on? why not have em all turn on off the h/u through a relay?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Got the new ALT in and running. A layer of glass all around the inside of the box. And the amp switches mounted....


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Alt looks good.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Have a relay off the blue HU remote wire that turns them on. It allows me to tune the system easier and turn off the subs when my young boys are in the truck with me...


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Yeah I was thinking of doing something similar with the sub amp....not really a need to do it for the mids and highs amps.

Nice execution on the toggles though.


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## chad y (Jan 11, 2011)

Wow, very nice. I agree I would make beauty covers for the doors. I would love to have a alt like that for my Hemi.


Chad


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Got the box all sealed up today... sorry for the delay. This sucker is heavy


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Just weighed the box at 97.6lb... So with 3 12W7 this box will be around 250lb's


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Ok we got the carpet on the box ans test fitted a sub....


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## littlejuanito (Apr 29, 2010)

NIce build. Cant wait to see it finished


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Alrighty then, we got all the wires run and bolted down the box installed the center sub before the sun went down


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## Eastman474 (Jan 8, 2010)

jamesavrit said:


> Alrighty then, we got all the wires run and bolted down the box installed the center sub before the sun went down


Good to see it going in, Cant wait to hear your Thoughts on it once its playing


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

yea Im really kinda scared at this point. Hopefully i can get the power routed threw the rear of the cab sunday and start to tweek with this system. I used packing peanuts today and messured each cavity at 2.4 ft^3 today.WinISD Pro said id get a flat response in a sealed box at around 2.294 ft^3 with the 12w7 displacing 0.14 cu. ft. that gives me around 2.154 ft^3.


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## Eastman474 (Jan 8, 2010)

Sounds like it should be good, How thick did you end up making the shell of the enclosure?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

its round 8 layers alternating 2oz chopmat and bidirectional 4" tape. and 2 on all the wood


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Looks damn good.....Hope mine turns out as nice. Trying to source good resin and mat right now.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

CHEMMINS what do you plan on running


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

I don't think I can post links yet, but for subs they are custom units. 

15" 
TRF Silver top motors
Soundstream XXX baskets
Memphis Carbon cones
Custom wound 4", 8 layer, dual 1 ohm coils
Pierce Audio Products, carbon dustcap, and spiders.

Should have an fs close to 35 ish, and be able to take anything I throw at them.


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## Eastman474 (Jan 8, 2010)

jamesavrit said:


> its round 8 layers alternating 2oz chopmat and bidirectional 4" tape. and 2 on all the wood


I hope you braced it well because that sounds a bit weak to me for some w7's... but good luck.

I usually use quite heavier mat for enclosures


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

I am going to be doing a lot of glass on my doors as well. I have 4 - 6.5's per door to go in, and 2 - 5.25 in each front door, and 1 in each rear door.


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Sick build.....and good to see someone take constructive critiscim so well. Kudos for just that. 

I am in same boat as some others ones about the front door speakers. It seems you are good with building and numbers and fiberglass and have time to work on this being it isn't your only ride. So I would do them doors up nice! Do something custom made, fiberglass of course and maybe even add and extra mid or do a 3-way active setup. 

Seems you have the talent to do it, know your stuff and that truck is so nice, but seems like an eye sore once those doors were opened. Maybe you dont show it or whatever, but for me if I had a ride that nice, I would want it all to flow nicely together, especially how nice everything else came out like the box for example. 

Amazing looking truck! Wish I had the funds to do something like this. 

Good luck on rest and subscribed!


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

the box came out very nice! looking forward to updates-


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

CHEMMENS you should email me a pic or 2  what's the mounting depth on those?


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

jamesavrit said:


> CHEMMENS you should email me a pic or 2  what's the mounting depth on those?


Shoot me your email and I'll send ya some pics of em. They have a 10.375" mounting depth.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

[email protected] you might have a problem with the depth and excursion hitting the back seat. You will probably have to recess the vents flat to fit the motors.


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Judging from your box, I think I may be able to get away with it.....I am going to just run a 1" thick birch baffle. And I will probably have about the same excursion as your JL's. 

Pics of subs incoming to ya.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

box looks a bit thin on the shell side...http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s245/jamesavrit/mega cab audio install/IMG_0562.jpg

i hope this doesn't compromise the sound, but 8 layers of 2oz chop doesn't sound like nearly enough glass for the shell... good luck with that


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Dose anyone know much about the bit one?


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Bit one is a good piece for a guy who has time to tune it. I would go with a MS-8 just for simplicity.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Ok got everything wired up today and did some testing. MY HEAD HURTS!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Nice.....get some amp install pics going....lol.


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Got the power routed threw the back of the cab and some amps in......


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## trinity_rush2001 (Sep 1, 2009)

sick build


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Looks like fun....you puttin the amps on top of the box?


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

yea they will be high and dry when i go wheeling and feel like crossing a riverbed lol


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Updates needed here......


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## jamesavrit (Mar 1, 2010)

CHEMMINS sorry i have been working. more updates when i get home


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Ya home yet?....lol.


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## CHEMMINS (Mar 7, 2011)

Updates of the finished product!!!!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i wanna see this also


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## SLICKDSG (Jan 6, 2010)

MTopper said:


> i wanna see this also


Me too . NICE truck too .....


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## jockhater2 (May 9, 2011)

Is this a 6.7L cummins?


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

SORRY if I missed this. First nice build...

So, what was the OZ weight of your biax used? Did you use both tape and wide
cloth or just tape in the joints. Your one of the first folks I've seen use this stuff,
I've used it on boats and know how strong it is. Though I have only ever used it
with epoxy. Did you have any wet out issues?

Cheers,
Scott


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Subscribed.
Waiting for the finale with antici-------pation.
BTW, more info about your deep sea diving job. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Shuffy (Sep 8, 2011)

Hey James, just checking in on this. You have inspired me to do a similar build. Looks like you last update was about 5 months ago. You ever complete your build and do you have pics or maybe even a video of it in action?!?! Really looking forward to seeing all the newest updates.


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## Dave88LX (Dec 12, 2010)

You home yet? 

I agree, the 100XQ are very very nice caps.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Dave88LX said:


> You home yet?
> 
> I agree, the 100XQ are very very nice caps.


That......is a very beautiful truck. :thumbsup:

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Dave88LX (Dec 12, 2010)

Thanks, I agree! I'm a bit partial though.


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