# RMAT's HAT L3 A pillar build



## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Well guys I decded to get my feet wet and start an A pillar build. I'll admit right now that this is the first time Ive ever tried to build anything like this. I'm sure I'll mess a bunch of stuff up, but that's how ya learn. I've already made a bunch of circle cutting mistakes but at least now I can make them .

Here's what I've got so far. More pics to come.

Yay for Jasper jig









Circles cut and double side tape attached in order to cut into a ring

















You can also use double sided carpet tape. It doesn't have a foam inside so the wood sits flush.









Rings done. I used 3/4 MDF









































That's it for today.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

what kind of car is it?


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Tonyguy said:


> what kind of car is it?


'07 Accord sedan


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

Suggestion: notch out the back of the rings on the internal side of where the speaker goes. you want the back wave to have as much room as possible. only leave alot of wood at the screw holes if that makes sense.

lookin good


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

BigRed said:


> Suggestion: notch out the back of the rings on the internal side of where the speaker goes. you want the back wave to have as much room as possible. only leave alot of wood at the screw holes if that makes sense.
> 
> lookin good


I saw that tip in your build log and I plan on it. Thanks! I also want to find some plastic like you did so I can wrap it around the edge of the ring in order to make a compression fit grill. I got alot of ideas from your thread


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## tommybuiltinc (Mar 20, 2008)

I like speakers in the pillar


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

let me know if I can help you in any way.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

"Day 2"

Not a good start. Had a bad omen before I even started working. This is my fortune from my chinese dinner. Might be hard to read :surprised:









I say day 2 but it's really like night 2. I'm am working on this about an hour a night after work so this will be super slow build. I'll prolly make some good time this weekend tho. Anyways on to the pics.

Marked off no cut zones.









Chamfered the edges. After inspected I need to go over these again I guess. Never done it before so maybe someone can tell me if it looks ok or not.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

I also went shopping tonight for build material









Fabric Remnents 

































Found this ruler type thng in the quilting section of a fabric store. I'll use it as an outer ring so that I can make a compresion fit speaker grill. Got this idea from BigRed's hybrid build log.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

I've also got some resin somewhere. Not in the picture.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

cool work! Methodic and timely...
Take your time, let those L3's breathe and they will reward you! So the rabeting you have done on the back of the baffle looks good. Stick an L3 in there and see how much of the back of the cone you can see. The more, the better 

ps, avatar, it comes from the down?


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

syd-monster said:


> cool work! Methodic and timely...
> Take your time, let those L3's breathe and they will reward you! So the rabeting you have done on the back of the baffle looks good. Stick an L3 in there and see how much of the back of the cone you can see. The more, the better
> 
> ps, avatar, it comes from the down?


Thanks!

My avatar is my favorite band  311


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

here's a closer look at the rings with the L3's in it. I always like to get pics with flash and without. Never can have too many pics


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

Take that bondo crap back. Then look up Rage (Rage Gold, Rage, or Rage Extreme) online or nearby. This will save you HOURS of work.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Subscribed...

Looking good so far!!!


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Low_e_Red said:


> Take that bondo crap back. Then look up Rage (Rage Gold, Rage, or Rage Extreme) online or nearby. This will save you HOURS of work.


I've used the bondo filler in the past and it did require tons of sanding. I'll have to see if i can find some of the rage products. Thanks for the heads up.




reindeers said:


> Looking good so far!!!


Thanks man!


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## czechm8 (Oct 15, 2008)

I'll be interested to follow this as well. I've used the Bondo glass and regular bondo in the past. Is the Rage stuff that much better?


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

I called around for rage gold products and found a place that sales it but it's like $30/gallon. 

I'm not in a race to finish this so I think I'll stick with the bondo filler and just do a bit more sanding. I will be covering the pillars with more fabric if I can find a close match to my headliner/pillar material so it doesn't need to be perfect a few pinholes shouldn't hurt.


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## dvflyer (May 11, 2007)

Looks like you're off to a great start. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.


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## lovenlife (Feb 3, 2008)

Looking good! Definetely go with the Rage Gold, $30 its worth every penny when you see how easy it is to use.


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## braves6117 (Feb 13, 2008)

Great start to a nice thread. Take your time!!!

Sanding will be your friend, nice and slow


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

dvflyer said:


> Looks like you're off to a great start. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.





lovenlife said:


> Looking good! Definetely go with the Rage Gold, $30 its worth every penny when you see how easy it is to use.





braves6117 said:


> Great start to a nice thread. Take your time!!!
> 
> Sanding will be your friend, nice and slow


Thanks guys!

UPDATE!!!

Well I got some more stuff done.

I cut two more circles out of 1/4" birch and applied double sided carpet tape to stick them together. The carpet tape has threads of nylon I think so I made sure to leave room so that it wouldn't get tangled in the router bit.









Then after sticking the two cirles together I stuck the combined circles to my table in order to make rings. 









Rings finished and tape removed.









After talking with BigRed I scrapped the Plastic ruler idea for the lip and went to a packaging store (fedex/kinkos) and bought a 4" ID cardboard mailing tube.









I ruogh cut the tube smaller. Placed the 2 quarter inch rings on top of my 3/4" ring and leveled it off with the scissors.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

And here's the finished ring and grill assembly


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

RMAT said:


> And here's the finished ring and grill assembly


very nice work


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

is it just me or does the jasper jig in the first picture look like its not centered on the bit. Looks centered in the other pictures.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

baggedbirds said:


> is it just me or does the jasper jig in the first picture look like its not centered on the bit. Looks centered in the other pictures.



It's not centered. The router I'm using is an old craftsmen laminate router I "borrowed" from my dad . It's not mentioned that it can be used with the Jasper jig, but it works off center bit and all.


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## baggedbirds (Sep 21, 2008)

oh - doesn't that mess up if you use the printed numbers on the jig?

p.s. like the avatar


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

A suggestion if you are going to be cutting more circles (baffles etc).
When using the router and doing the usual multiple passes to cut through, set the depth stop to be just short of cutting completely through (1/32" is ok).
This way you can do both cuts (outer and inner) whilst still part of the larger sheet.
Once both cuts are done, use a hobby knife to cut the the rings out, then it's easy to sand the thin edge back to the correct size.

The project is looking good..
Keep the updates coming..

Mark


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

baggedbirds said:


> oh - doesn't that mess up if you use the printed numbers on the jig?
> 
> p.s. like the avatar


Umm...heh....well I don't know if the Jasper jig is working 100% accurately and as intended, but it is working . I haven't been checking these cuts with a caliper so I can't say that these cut are perfect. Also, this being my first time ever using it I've messed up a few rings trying to figure out the ID. It's a real piece of crap router. Jasper jigs are designed to be used with a plunge router and this one isn't. It cuts the OD(4" in this case) of the ring fine ,but to cut the ID (3" in this case)I needed to move the peg to the smallest inside cut level which is 2 1/4" and then move the peg up to the 5/8" offset. So if everything is working correctly I would say the is a half inch adjustment when trying to cut the ID with my current setup for this. Again, this might not be how it's designed to work but I'm making it work with what I have :worried: Pics might help explain it.

This is the setup I had to make a little bit larger ID for the grill ring. Peg is on the 3/4" offset.



















FrankstonCarAudio said:


> A suggestion if you are going to be cutting more circles (baffles etc).
> When using the router and doing the usual multiple passes to cut through, set the depth stop to be just short of cutting completely through (1/32" is ok).
> This way you can do both cuts (outer and inner) whilst still part of the larger sheet.
> Once both cuts are done, use a hobby knife to cut the the rings out, then it's easy to sand the thin edge back to the correct size.
> ...


Thanks for the tip. I would try something like that if i Had a more precise Plunge router which I'll eventually buy. I'll give it a shot next time tho .

Also I don't think you can have enuff pics in a build log. If there's anything else you guys wanna see let me know and I'll try to get more/better pics if it's possible.


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## machinehead (Nov 6, 2005)

ABS plastic is a good alternative to the packing tube.


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

RMAT said:


> I called around for rage gold products and found a place that sales it but it's like $30/gallon.
> 
> I'm not in a race to finish this so I think I'll stick with the bondo filler and just do a bit more sanding. I will be covering the pillars with more fabric if I can find a close match to my headliner/pillar material so it doesn't need to be perfect a few pinholes shouldn't hurt.


Trust me, the few extra dollars will be way worth the money. It sands a hell of a lot better and easier. After the first time using the Rage products, I wont switch back.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Well I have a motto "Can't learn if you don't try" and it seems like I did more "trying" and "Learning" than accomplishing anything. So on to the failure pics. Today was basically a waste except for learning what not to do. Should have just stayed in and posted cat pics. Anyways here's tons of fail pics.

















































































Ended up just ripping this all apart and going a different route.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

So tommorow I'll will start working off this. I'm making a fiberglass mold of my a pillar and then I'll work off it. It will make mounting/taking in and out of my car much easier.


















All I had for release agent was some dish washing detergent. Hope it works :/.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Dish washing detergent???

Let us know how that works out.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Dish washing detergent???

Let us know how that works out.


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## mobeious (Jan 26, 2007)

well if u didnt use a precleaner that glass isnt going to stick no matter what...also i bet that hot glue will pull off it u give a tug.. the mold release that they use at the factory to mold those panels is killer.. i need a paint precleaner to total get rid of that mold release agent


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

Hot glue sucks- use CA glue- it is two part, it is glue plus a spray on accelerator- it holds about 10x (maybe an exaggeration) better than hot glue, a little goes a long way, drys very quick, almost no mess. It almost all car audio projects east and is great just to have around the house.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

The hot glue sticks quite well actually and I want to be able to get it off if I need to. So it is working perfectly in my case. More pics coming soon.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Update

Got a little more work done.
Trimmed the "mounting plate" and applied double sided tape for testing fit


























mounted 

















How ya like this contraption. Wow trying to stretch the "fleece"(acutally it's like spandex material) was a PITA but I think I got it.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Getting closer.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

I need to beef it up a little better and cut out the bottom and cut the a pillar to vent into the pillar/dash. I've heard alot of people tak about venting a pillar's but not exactly sure what needs to be done  so If you know please clue me in


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

RMAT said:


> I've heard alot of people tak about venting a pillar's but not exactly sure what needs to be done  so If you know please clue me in


Think of it in terms of airflow. The back of that L3 produces a certain amount of air (sound). If you can totally isolate that sound from the front of the cone into a large area (like under the dash or outside) then the L3 will "see" that its in a Infinite Baffle installation and play best it can! Hence you somehow need to mechanically make that pods vent somewere, spend lots of time looking at what holes you need to make and were. If you can get under the dash (some tubing might help) or have it see the large amount or air insider the actual pillar (some holes will help) then your well on your way.
Good work!!


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## TheDavel (Sep 8, 2006)

RMAT said:


> The hot glue sticks quite well actually and I want to be able to get it off if I need to. So it is working perfectly in my case. More pics coming soon.


They make a de-bonder for CA glue- but everybody has their own ways and yours works for you-


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

UPDATE!!

OK...I keep finding myself doing really dumb things and not 100% happy with what I did with my first "pod". So I chunked it and started over. I used the same technique above but added more support with more/better placed dowels. On the first pod the bottom half seemed to want to move when trying to stretch the "fleece" which caused the whole thing to get mishaped and made it tuff to install back into the car. So after learning what not to do Here's round two "pod". 

I also want to add the someone said the hot glue wasn't good to use, but I love the stuff. Works perfectly and can be melted again using a old soldering iron and you can just move whatever you need to over a bit or pull it off.

Here's the new dowel placements to support the pod. I used non hardening clay this time to get the angle instead of plumbers tape. worked great.








Here you can see the glob of non hardening clay.

















And here it is the test fit.








Raamat BXT applied to the inside of the pod. It will also be wrapped n vinyl so that will help a little with resonance I think.

















And here's pics of my idea of venting. It may be wrong but for now that's how it's staying. The first pics are of m first pod attempt. Last pic is of my second attempt.

































I applied the first layer of body filler so looks like lots of sanding will be in my future. I will also start on the passenger side pod tomorow...err wow i mean later today...time flies when your sniffing noxious fumes. I can sand on the drivers side in between waiting for the resin to cure for the passengers side.


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

lookin good. where is the tweeter going?


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

BigRed said:


> lookin good. where is the tweeter going?


As of right now I have the L1 pros in the door. You can see them here in this pic


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## Scott Buwalda (Apr 7, 2006)

Nice work. Methodical. Keep it up!!! 

Scott


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

for kicks and giggles, I would try the L1 pros in the pillars on axis


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Scott Buwalda said:


> Nice work. Methodical. Keep it up!!!
> 
> Scott


Thanks man. 



BigRed said:


> for kicks and giggles, I would try the L1 pros in the pillars on axis


Yeah I thought about that after starting on this. I may make some sail panel pods for the l1 pros after this .


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Got the passenger side almost done.









Here's a teaser for what's next


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Great! Yup, let those L's breathe. They'll reward you.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

....


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks for this build log. I'm going to be using some of your ideas when I make a second attempt to do dash/a-pillar pods. Just waiting on my CDT ES-03 mids to come in from woofersetc.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> Thanks for this build log. I'm going to be using some of your ideas when I make a second attempt to do dash/a-pillar pods. Just waiting on my CDT ES-03 mids to come in from woofersetc.


Let me know if I can be of any help when you start. 

I like the CDT ES model's. They should do well for you.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

They're spec'd pretty closely to the L3s, with some slight differences. I modeled them both, using WinISD and they have nearly the same roll off, so running the ES-03s IB should work out really well for me. 

I've had the L3s before, loved em, wanted to try something different only to figure out that the 4" Exclusives wont fit on my dash. I already sold the L3s, but I snagged the ES-03s for 70 bucks shipped. 

I wasn't sure how I was going to get the lip on the mounting ring, but I'm really digging that shipping tube idea, should work out perfectly.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> They're spec'd pretty closely to the L3s, with some slight differences. I modeled them both, using WinISD and they have nearly the same roll off, so running the ES-03s IB should work out really well for me.
> 
> I've had the L3s before, loved em, wanted to try something different only to figure out that the 4" Exclusives wont fit on my dash. I already sold the L3s, but I snagged the ES-03s for 70 bucks shipped.
> 
> I wasn't sure how I was going to get the lip on the mounting ring, but I'm really digging that shipping tube idea, should work out perfectly.


Some people say to use pvc pipe or abs plastic pipe, but the cardboard tubes does the same thing and is much easier to cut to size using scissors or a box cutter. It also does well soaking in the resin which makes it very sturdy. Also as you can see I love using hot glue  and the glue sticks very well to the cardboard tube. 

BigRed gave me this tip, well he said that he found cardboard was easier to use than abs plastic or plexiglass, so I assumed he meant cardboard mailing tubes


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Should work out really well for me, the last time I didn't do anything like that and I wasn't 100% satisfied with the outcome. 

Last time when aiming the baffles I used that two flavor epoxy stuff, where it mixes in the tip, that **** sealed it self in the tip by the time I got one dowel glued in place, biggest waste of 4 bucks ever.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> Should work out really well for me, the last time I didn't do anything like that and I wasn't 100% satisfied with the outcome.
> 
> Last time when aiming the baffles I used that two flavor epoxy stuff, where it mixes in the tip, that **** sealed it self in the tip by the time I got one dowel glued in place, biggest waste of 4 bucks ever.


For aiming I found non-hardening modeling clay worked best then I just replaced the clay with the dowels.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Update!

Well for the last couple of nights all I have done is sand sand sand. Of course even doing this I have learned faster/better ways of doing this. As you can see my garage is covered in dust now.

First off here's a few tools I have used. This is all I have so I'm sure it's easer with better tools but this is all I've got.









This stuff is great for large areas that need to be filled in.




























I also found an easier way to get he rounded contour around the edges. I use a small paint roller wrapped with sand paper.









Another way I found to make it easier to sand is to be able to visually see the high and low spots. 

Here's a shot of pre sanding. Notics the use of the quickwood epoxy putty.









Take a large magic arker/sharpie and mark the area









here's a quck sand to show low/high spots









Keep sanding till no more black marker is seen


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Here's the driver side with first coat of primer. Of course this is my first time doing this too so of course I put the first coat on too thick so it ran a little


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

I also want to thank my good bud SQFreak who's on this board for letting me borrow a sander it has helped a ton.


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## trevordj (Feb 22, 2009)

Great job with this! Thanks for going through and posting all of your mistakes too, very helpful to see how your process evolved. I like the cardboard tube trick... definitely going to give that one a try.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Very nice , keep up the excellent work and post more pics soon


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## stuckinok (Jul 22, 2008)

very nice!


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks for the kind replies. 

Getting closer. Here's I think 5 coats of primer and I wrapped the rings I made earlier in grill cloth for grilles and they fit perfect. 

I'm still not sure if i want to continue with paint or see if I can get them wrapped somewhere.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Damnit. Just realised I need to paint the rings black so that you can't see them thru the cloth. Ughhhh!


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## theothermike (Dec 20, 2006)

black vinyl is ur friend if u think u might get black on the pillars


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Here's the unfinished A pillars test fitted and demo'd for the first time.....so far I'm extremely impressed. I have them currently playing them HP @ 315hz pushed with a US Acoustics USA2150 and they sound amazing. I'm waiting to get my USA4080 back from zed audio so I can really find out what they sound like paired with my mids. 

On to the pics!

























I still need to redo the grilles. Need to paint the rings black so that they cannot be seen thry the grille cloth.


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

good to see an on-axis install. If you cut into the pillar you could move the left midrange out to the a-pillar metal. It would only be beneficial.


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## SQfreak (Feb 13, 2007)

Dude it's looking fantastic! Good work!


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

SQfreak said:


> Dude it's looking fantastic! Good work!


Thanks man! And thanks for letting me borrow the sander. Saved me tons of time.


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## SQfreak (Feb 13, 2007)

Ok I have now seen and heard this in person. 100% badass! Those L3 sound great just by themselves man. Grats!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

not bad for as you say, first attempt?

i think if i were to do on axison tihs car, i would mold it onto part of the dash and do it that way, it would make for a lot softer curves and more integrated look, verus the guage pillar look? 

sorta like how Jim's is.

wrapping that shape in vinyl is a non starter, without some heavy stiching, but even then, its next to impossible. 

you may want to try the grille cloth material technique i used, but it would show every little imperfection as well:





































but it is much easier than working it for painting  get the nice HD cloth for a nicer overall finish than the cheap grille cloth.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> not bad for as you say, first attempt?
> 
> i think if i were to do on axison tihs car, i would mold it onto part of the dash and do it that way, it would make for a lot softer curves and more integrated look, verus the guage pillar look?
> 
> ...


I have loved every install you have done and if I had the cash and the means to get my car to you I would've had you do the install and I appreciate your input 

But, to me this was more about just getting out there and trying new stuff. This is a hobby to me and learning how to do alot of this stuff is more valuable than the cost of having someone else do it for me. 

This thread is no means a bragging thread or look what I can do thread but more of a look at what I am learning and hopefully a motivation for others to try it too. That's why I have shown my mistakes as well. 

Another thing I tried to do here is to make these "pods" as versatile as possible. I had never heard the L3's before so this was more of a way to be able to easily have access to the inner ring and redo them if i didn't like the L3's.

Now that I've had a chance to audition the L3's I think they sound great! 

This was my first attempt at ever doing something like this and it was the only way I knew at the time of how to make them easy to change in case I didn't like the L3's and to be as on axis as possible.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

RMAT said:


> This thread is no means a bragging thread or look what I can do thread but more of a look at what I am learning and hopefully a motivation for others to try it too. That's why I have shown my mistakes as well.


Learning is always fun, even though if you were like me you hated it in school. Great work.

What bit are you using to cut your circles? It looks like it's 1/4" but I can't tell what kind of bit it is. I am using a 1/2" straight cutting bit and it wastes a lot of wood.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Notloudenuf said:


> Learning is always fun, even though if you were like me you hated it in school. Great work.
> 
> What bit are you using to cut your circles? It looks like it's 1/4" but I can't tell what kind of bit it is. I am using a 1/2" straight cutting bit and it wastes a lot of wood.


yup....1/4" straight bit. 

I would tho like to get others input on better options tho for bits. That is just what I had at the time. I've heard people using spiral bits and upcut, downcut, 1/4", 1/2" but I'm not sure what is the best and I'm sure it depends on the cut.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

RMAT said:


> I have loved every install you have done and if I had the cash and the means to get my car to you I would've had you do the install and I appreciate your input
> 
> But, to me this was more about just getting out there and trying new stuff. This is a hobby to me and learning how to do alot of this stuff is more valuable than the cost of having someone else do it for me.
> 
> ...




oh i totally know hwat you mean bud  i wasnt suggesting having me do it or anyhitng, i was just saying, it hink if you cant decide on the paint versus wrapping thing, the grille cloth way may be a good alternative 

I definetly try to stay away from bragging at all, cuase gosh i know there is so much i still have left to learn, and often i pick up new things to try to DIY guys on here. what i do really apprecaite is your candor in your log, showing mistakes. mots people stay away from showing them, or they take pics from angles that best suit the install so the flaws dont show, and then when one sees it in person...you can see all the issues....where as the way you took pics, shows it from all angles. 
keep at it!


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## BluSoul (May 3, 2009)

RMAT said:


> to me this was more about just getting out there and trying new stuff. This is a hobby to me and learning how to do alot of this stuff is more valuable than the cost of having someone else do it for me.
> 
> This thread is no means a bragging thread or look what I can do thread but more of a look at what I am learning and hopefully a motivation for others to try it too. That's why I have shown my mistakes as well.
> 
> ...


Hi RMAT,

I'm new as a registered DIYMA member, and before registering I visited the forums as a guest several times. I just want to say you have done a fine job on these pillars, and this work is highly motivating.

I drive a 2003 Neon SXT, and and I hope to have as much success in my first time out (as a nouveau hobbyist) as you have -- i.e., I want to do the same thing in my car, except my first attempt will begin with the rear pillars, then the front pillars. 

A second kind of mod I have planned is to install two 8" subs (that's right, two) under the dash. This will require a high amount of mods, as I may have to cut and modify my center console. I won't attempt doing this until after I have gained more knowledge and experience with fiberglassing.

Again, fine and highly motivating work.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

BluSoul said:


> Hi RMAT,
> 
> I'm new as a registered DIYMA member, and before registering I visited the forums as a guest several times. I just want to say you have done a fine job on these pillars, and this work is highly motivating.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words! 

I had a ton of fun making these and learned a great deal which will only help me along the way. If I can answer any questions you may have shoot me a pm or ask me here in this thread. I really hope you do a build log with progress pics. Build logs from others really helped me get out there and get motivated as well .


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

Wrap them in something. It's only a matter of time until that bondo starts cracking from expansion and contraction and vibration.


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## ogwap (Dec 10, 2007)

Wow! nice job. Glad to hear you like the L3's


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

This was great, It reminds me of my first attempt at pillars! I think i was 22yo and was just like, screw it, im gonna do it! Congrats on doing what you did!


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## crucial24 (Jul 27, 2010)

Clean install man


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

RMAT said:


> This thread is no means a bragging thread or look what I can do thread but more of a look at what I am learning and hopefully a motivation for others to try it too. That's why I have shown my mistakes as well.


I just want to say *thank you!* This is the *motivation* I need :laugh3:
*Great job!*


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