# Winno's Australian Honda Odyssey build



## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Hello from Australia, people.

My partner and I wanted a larger car and of course, the one we went for had to be audio system friendly.
So, we got this one. It's a 2010 JDM Honda RB3 Odyssey Luxury.
It sits low and handles like a car rather than a minivan, is well made with nice materials and fitment, is very very quiet inside, and has good room for the kids and of course, the audio bits and pieces.

Here's a couple of pics from the Honda website.



















The factory system comprises an in dash 6 cd double DIN head unit, splits up front, and coaxials in the rear doors. It sounds like arse, you can't read the head unit display with polarised sunglasses on, and the unit is terrible to use.

The dash is deep and expansive though and will be great for what I have planned.





































The gear I'll be using ;

The HX-D2 cd/tuner/pre, Titanium amps, Perfect 10VQ sub, and XLN Pro cables are the same items I used in my Peugeot 306GTi build a while ago.

The Clarion head unit, IMO, is still unbeatable from a musicality point of view. It'll be integrated with the factory steering wheel controls via a PAC SWI-X infra-red remote system.










The Titanium amps from Phoenix Gold are still some of the best amps around and only surpassed by some big dollar products using Class A or valves. I'm installing a 500.4 for the door drivers and a 600.2 for my wide banders that'll be fitted to the A-pillars.

This is one sitting on a kick plate I had made for it.











I'm also using an Alpine PDX (because they're small and affordable) to drive the sub. In time I'll add another multi channel PDX for the rear stage and go a mono for the sub.










The Infinity sub is incredible and regrettably, a relative unknown here in Australia. No fault of the product. More a function (or rather a lack of) of the marketing and promotion behind the product by the importer here. This time, I'm going to use a tried and true sealed box - 0.5cu ft.



















I've chosen new speaker drivers as well after selling my Morel Elate 3 ways.
I'm going back to a 2 way front stage, but with a difference.

The tops will be handled by Audible Physics' new NZ3A/AMT drivers from about 250Hz, to 20kHz. This means that I can avoid a cross over point (with the associated issues) in the very critical mid and high frequency range. Only if I really have to, I'll wire in the AMT tweeters for 16kHz+. Based on experience with outer similar wideband drivers however, I have a feeling I wont need the tweeters.










After dabbling with full or wide band drivers (eg, Tang Band, Fountek, JVC) at home for a while, I'm convinced that this is a very viable option in the car. It also means that I can have a less bulky A-pillar build compared to what I would be faced with if I used a separate mid and tweeter combo.
Those familiar with wide band systems done properly appreciate how natural and musical these set ups can sound. Imaging and sound staging is incredible because they're essentially a point source.

Rear stage are Fountek FR-88EXs










The mids will be Seas Prestige L16RNSL.



















Why? 
Comments from many indicate that this driver performs exceedingly well in my intended application.
Being an alloy cone driver, if it exhibits some of the characteristics of my Perfect 10VQ sub, I'll be very happy indeed.
It also fits into my doors after I modify the door card slightly to accommodate it.
It'll cover from about 80Hz through to about 300Hz. 
And it's cheap!

I'll also hook in my 32Gb iPhone4 via the Kensington AssistOne cradle which does multi roles as mass media storage and playback, phone, and GPS - all via voice control.

More to come tomorrow.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

way cool mate, cant wait to see the results  how easy is it for you guys to get JDM products such as the HXd2?


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> way cool mate, cant wait to see the results  how easy is it for you guys to get JDM products such as the HXd2?


Thanks.
The HX-D2 was the model sold here by Clarion Australia, so no problem at all.

My two PG Ti amps will go under the front seats



















Rear amp in the boot/truck area










Rear fill










Once the centre tray is removed, I have this room between the front seats for the sub










The head unit will go into the factory space with a custom trim panel.

A diagram to help me understand how to get the best angles based on where I sit, what the drivers plot like vs axis degree offset and so on. My goal was a good top end extension and the same 'plotted response' from each side. This meant that I had to balance the offset of each driver so that it was the same for both drivers. The Clarion allows for discrete left and right equalisation but I wanted to get things right without resorting to electronic bandaids where absolutely possible first.










A mock up of a sphere to also help me get a handle on the size of these things.










Why a sphere?


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Once I had all the angles right, it was time to pull bits off the car and start cutting...

I used a ball float as the basis for my pods










The driver mounting ring for each pod. Note the round over on the back to allow the driver to vent better with less turbulence. These were screwed into the balls once I'd cut them for the drivers.










I Supaglued them into place onto the A-pillar trims and then started glassing.
This is the first time I've ever glassed anything - wish me luck!




























I'd also resined an old t-shirt onto the base of the pillar trim before hand to cover the void left from the removal of the factory tweeter.

Glassing done inside and outide and they're really strong. This is the trims about half way done and with bogging almost finished.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Doors

Stripped and cleaned










Dynamat inside oud outside skins and custom spacer fitted.










My Seas Prestige L16RN-SL midbasses fitted










Door trims back on


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

It's looking very nice Winno.


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## mr.metoo (Feb 20, 2010)

Great looking van, wish we got them in the states.

Also great choice of equipment, keep up the good work .


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

that Odyssey looks nothing like north American version. Imo it looks more like Mercedes R series.


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## fordriver1 (Jul 11, 2012)

are they bow cupboard door handles for speaker protectors?


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## speakerpimp (Feb 15, 2012)

Sweet install, I really like how the doors came out. Such a simple idea and it looks great!


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

interested to see how it comes out! keep the pics commin!!


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Subscribed. Our 3rd car is a 2000 Honda Odyssey (U.S. version) and have very similar plans, so very interested in the outcome and your impressions.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Looking great sir. 

Funny thing is my other half has a 2001 Odyssey also. I plan to build her a MECA street Class system in it also.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Victor_inox said:


> that Odyssey looks nothing like north American version. Imo it looks more like Mercedes R series.


There's an R series around the corner from my house. The ODC is longer, lower and sleeker looking but I definitely see the similarities. 
Yes, we're lucky to have the JDM Ody here.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

fordriver1 said:


> are they bow cupboard door handles for speaker protectors?


Sure are!

Depending on how the trim rings turn out for the AP pods up high, I might be doing a similar thing but with brushed stainless bicycle spokes.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Audible Physics said:


> Looking great sir.
> 
> Funny thing is my other half has a 2001 Odyssey also. I plan to build her a MECA street Class system in it also.


Do it Mark!
I wanna see that for sure. 

My car will be in Australia's MEASQ Advanced class as I'll probably be judging again next year.


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## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

Nice work!those a pillars are not going to be fun to cover!like the minivan good lookin.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

The pillars are almost done. They need to have some round over rings made to be fitted to the top surface of the driver flanges but that's about it. 





































They're 1.2 litres and fully sealed and the drivers are Mark's new Audible Physics NZ3-A. I have not used the AT super tweeter because I'm only 12 degrees off axis and the dispersion characteristics of the spheres is superb. I get all the extension and transparency I need as is. I was concerned they wouldn't go high enough but the do and very easily. I'm fussy of treble - I use ribbons and Class A valve amplification at home for this reason. The driver's mdf mounting flange has a round over on the back to reduce turbulence off the back of the driver. Sound treatment is with Dynamat Extreme and a Deflex panel has been siliconed into each sphere. Signal feed to them is via continuous (no joins) Monster Cable XLN 16/4 - screw terminals at the amp and silver soldered to the tabs on the back of the drivers.

The sub box is 0.7 cu ft or 21 litres sealed. It's 18mm mdf with cross bracing and resin lined and has a Deflex panel as well. The baffle is rear chamfered and fixings are t-nuts. I drilled out the mounting holes on the driver so I could go up a guage in bolt size. It's bolted to the factory bolt holes in the floor via a custom made bracket. Cabling is AudioQuest semi-solid core.

The driver is an Infinity Perfect 10VQ - Magnesium/ceramic cone and I've used the smaller of the magnet inserts. 














































Yes, the sub enclosure is up front and between the front seats. It fires into the passenger seat. At this stage I have it playing up to 100Hz with an 18dB slope.

It hits HARD and it's out in front of me with the rest of the stage - love it!

This is the amp that drives it and the rear stage - Alpine PDX4.150. A bit of a compromise as I prefer Class A/B but all my cargo space must be retained and I needed a small amp that could do three channels. It's only rated to produce up to about 400wrms into the 4 Ohm load of the sub but it's doing very nicely. I'll grap a PDX1.1000 at some stage for more headroom and stack it on the 4.150.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

As you can see, I have a couple of Phoenix Gold Titanium amps - a 600.2 running stereo for the APs and a 500.4 bridged to run the Seas midbasses in the doors (capable of up to about 120wrms into the Seas' 8 Ohm load.

All fired up;










Yes, I've changed the lighting to white. Fan noise is not an issue and is mostly mutted by them sitting uder the front seats.

And my head unit - Clarion's HX-D2



















The trim surround was only finished tonight so no pics of that yet.

Cabling is 10 guage for power and earth, and signal to the amps is Monster Cable XLN Pro for mids and tops, and XLN Std for sub and rear fill.


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

I've also covered the grandpa wood trim on the doors and dash with a high quality 3D vinyl alloy wrap










And the car has factory effects lighting that matches in with all the gear










And that's a volt meter down in the kick.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Loving the A-pillars sir. They look great.


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## bmiller1 (Mar 7, 2010)

Pretty great looking build, man. That's a pretty slick mini-van.


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## speakerpimp (Feb 15, 2012)

Awesome install. Those pillars are sick!


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## boom_squid_2 (Jan 29, 2008)

Always loved these vans acreage of dash! 

Nice work


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## tknude (Jan 4, 2011)

Any issues with side curtain airbags in your A pillars?


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Thanks guys.

Mark, would love a small AP sticker to put on the back window ;D

No issues with the curtain airbags.
The trims are anchored at the top so don't blow off when the bags deploy in this model car.
They deploy down the door windows instead.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Winno said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> Mark, would love a small AP sticker to put on the back window ;D
> 
> ...


I will send something your way. What Color


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Audible Physics said:


> I will send something your way. What Color


Oh cheers!
How about grey as a first choice, or white as a second.
My car is dark metalic grey.

Thanks heaps!


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## robolop (Mar 10, 2008)

I love what you made so far
I’m a big fan of your tweeters on the A-pillars


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

robolop said:


> I love what you made so far
> I’m a big fan of your tweeters on the A-pillars


FYI, it's not a tweeter  

Kelvin


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## Winno (May 3, 2011)

Robolop, coming from you that's a real compliment.
Cheers.

And they're a wide band driver rather than a dedicated tweeter. They're currently playing from 200Hz up to 20kHz.

I'm _really_ loving this point source and crossoverless goodness.


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

The pods look great.


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## natepartlan (Dec 15, 2006)

Winno said:


> I used a ball float as the basis for my pods


More info on "ball float" please for us North Americans. Is it for swimming pool, boat/marina, toilet tank float, or what? Brand and model #? Purchase source? Any and all info would help. I think your a-pillars are top notch and I have found my pattern to follow for my minivan tweeters!

Any tips or lessons you can share about the creation of ring, attachment of ball to pillar, or fiberglassing experience would be fantastic as well.


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## TheWolfman (6 mo ago)

Just in case anyone is still around on this thread, I’ve got a 2009 model like this but with Japanese language built in Internavi James’s unit which climate control goes through. Is it possible to upgrade the head unit to an aftermarket CarPlay?


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