# DIYMA12 review



## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

These are the conditions that my DIYMA12 is playing in. I have a 2002 VW GTi. It is a hatchback for all of you that don't know. It is getting approximately 700w. The sub is mounted in a .5 cubic feet box. It is also mounted invertedly. I did this so that I could hear the "popping" noise that everyone was talking about. 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/skylar112/pic.jpg

First listening:
duration: 20 minutes
Music: Ludacris, Ying Yang Twins, Bubba Sparxxx, Aerosmith, various techno/house/trance.
My thoughts: The sub is the sub is one of the best subs that I have ever owned. It sounds better than an Audiomobile Mass 12, Soundstream Exact 12s, ID12s. I would say its neck to neck with the Lotus 12(which I loved to death). It is very articulate, detailed and quick. It was able to blend in with the RS180 midbass very nicely. You can tell that there is a sub however it was transparent enough to make you wonder because the placement of the sub was rather hard to localize, even at high volumes. Oh yeah I forgot, didn't hear a pop.

Second listening:45 minutes
Music: Dream Theater, Alpine F1 disk, Focal test disk, Sheffield Labs, Chesky Demo disk, Alice in Chains Unplugged, Chantal Kresviak.
My thoughts: I have now tuned it in better more for SQ rather than just to blast the sub to see what the capability is. Anyhow after listening I fell in love with the sub that much more. I will not lie to you I was expecting more efficiency coming out of it. But I normally have everything set at the lowest possible setting, and the sub volume at maybe +1. So I have to bring everything up slightly, not a big deal. I have the sub playing at 80hz and 63hz 12db. I left it at 63hz 2nd order, and left my midbass playing at 80hz hp 2nd order as well. This is where I thought it blended in the best. At this point, listening to all the disks, the sub is completely transparent. Yes you can tell that there is a sub(because those of us with the knowledge that a 7" driver just doesn't play that low), it is just that transparent. My roomate even came into the car thought that the sub was coming from the front, and he has no idea what he was listening to, or what I was trying to do. The sub plays very quick, and snaps tight. It was able to keep up with the Dream Theaters double bass drums with no problem. One thing for me was that I wished it played a little lower, however that might be because of my box size, and might also be because my 20-40hz 2-3 db cut. Still no popping noise.

Third listening: This morning
Music: Bubba Sparxxx, Satchel, Rihanna, Jessica Simpson Public Affair
My thoughts: My commute is only about 10-15 minutes, I picked these songs because I wanted to play these bassy songs now in the SQ setting to see how it would behave. Well the sub is very well behaved, and performs excellent. Blending now is superb, sub plays very tight and accurate. Still no popping noise as of yet.

I will increase the power now, instead of 700w to about 900w. With a power increase I should be able to get this "poping" sound out.

My final thoughts: I'm not into multiple sub setups, however I'm craving for a dual DIYMA12 setup. I am absolutely in love with the sub, it is neck to neck with the other best car sub that I have ever owned; the Lotus 12. I will follow up with more when I install the 900w amp.

PS I do this review because I think the sub should get a fair hearing. I don't care about the raffle.


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

Nice review. Get rid of your 40-20hz cut and tell us how the low end performs in a small box.


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

drocpsu said:


> Nice review. Get rid of your 40-20hz cut and tell us how the low end performs in a small box.


will do sargent


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

skylar112 said:


> PS I do this review because I think the sub should get a fair hearing. I don't care about the raffle.


OH PLEASEEEEE!!


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

dual700 said:


> OH PLEASEEEEE!!


Nguyen please give my raffle to Eng or Derek. PS Eng= PaPa douche


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## low (Jun 2, 2005)

nice review...man you a basshead
*Music: Ludacris, Ying Yang Twins, Bubba Sparxxx,* lol!


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

low said:


> nice review...man you a basshead
> *Music: Ludacris, Ying Yang Twins, Bubba Sparxxx,* lol!


I was hoping that as I play the Bubba Sparxxx Ms New Booty song, that maybe as I drive by some chick will shake her booty. I do believe its a subwoofer, and I believe those play bass   .


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

skylar112 said:


> Nguyen please give my raffle to Eng or Derek. PS Eng= PaPa douche


Agreed - you should give it to derek for getting up the first review of the production DIYMA12.


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

drocpsu said:


> Agreed - you should give it to derek for getting up the first review of the production DIYMA12.


can I second that Eng is papa douche?


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## 3.5max6spd (Jun 29, 2005)

Cant wait to check it out in you cars guys...the subs booty itself is quite the looker


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

drocpsu said:


> Agreed - you should give it to derek for getting up the first review of the production DIYMA12.


And Eng for reviewing the proto the first time  

Hi five to Derek, middle finger to Chu


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## 3.5max6spd (Jun 29, 2005)

Oh and if you are trying to make it pop I can let you toss it in my trunk and see how it likes a bridged 2300SE


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

3.5max6spd said:


> Oh and if you are trying to make it pop I can let you toss it in my trunk and see how it likes a bridged 2300SE



I may have to oblige


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## 3.5max6spd (Jun 29, 2005)

skylar112 said:


> I may have to oblige


We'll call it the 'torture test'  j/k

I'm stoked to hear that badboy! I cant believe its only in half a cube..


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

well I finally have this "popping" noise now, I just upgraded my amp to a 900w soundstream for the time being. Anyhow only with a few various songs I was able to get the popping noise. I won't lie it was pushed hard. But the noise was there. The volume that it was at is a lot louder than I would ever listen to my sub. So overall I'm still pleased, as the novelty of bass will soon wear off for my anyway.


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

and on the flipside for me, I re-set my gains and no longer am experiencing the popping. 

Nguyen, maybe you were right. It might have been my amp clipping that was causing the popping.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Awesome thanks for the update and review guys.

Also with a limiter, I can't get the sub to pop at all. That maybe a solution for some, or you can reset your gains to avoid hard clipping.

If you're a very particular SQ guy it may even be an advantage to hearing the clipping to know when to turn it down.


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## xDeLiRiOuSx (Apr 26, 2005)

Skylar, have you tried the sub in a larger enclosure? If so, do you notice a difference with the smaller volume? I'm thinking of doing .5 cft too.

Thanks
David


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

xDeLiRiOuSx said:


> Skylar, have you tried the sub in a larger enclosure? If so, do you notice a difference with the smaller volume? I'm thinking of doing .5 cft too.
> 
> Thanks
> David



hey delirious, I have not tried out the box in a bigger volume yet, although I'm thinking about it,

update, even after taking the 20-40hz cut and making it flat in that region I was still left wanting a little more on the lowend. I might have to try it in a larger box. Say about a .75-1.0 box. Although for absolute SQ I don't think its critical to have the subbass. Its good enough for what I would need it to do now, but I will play with bigger boxes to see if it will yield better results.


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## xDeLiRiOuSx (Apr 26, 2005)

Hrm, I dropped off my sub to get an box built yesterday. I told him use .7, but I'm debating if I should call him back and tell him .5 instead. At least with .7, I can go back and block it off to make it .5. Skylar, did you build the box yourself?

Thanks
David


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

xDeLiRiOuSx said:


> Hrm, I dropped off my sub to get an box built yesterday. I told him use .7, but I'm debating if I should call him back and tell him .5 instead. At least with .7, I can go back and block it off to make it .5. Skylar, did you build the box yourself?
> 
> Thanks
> David


Was it Devin?


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

So what size enclosure should i use with 500rms, to keep from popping the sub.?


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## xDeLiRiOuSx (Apr 26, 2005)

dual700 said:


> Was it Devin?


Of course =) ... Hrm, so should I get .5 or .7?

Oh yeah, I mentioned you and Tay, and he remember you guys right away!

Thanks
David


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

xDeLiRiOuSx said:


> Of course =) ... Hrm, so should I get .5 or .7?
> 
> Oh yeah, I mentioned you and Tay, and he remember you guys right away!
> 
> ...


Funny thing is, he called me about 1 hour ago, asking questions about the driver..  
Do .6, lol. If u need it larger add some polyfill.
BTW, I am stopping by at his place tomorrow late afternoon after 2 PM.
When is your box to be done?


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

demon2091tb said:


> So what size enclosure should i use with 500rms, to keep from popping the sub.?


 A ported box 1cft net tuned to 28hz... a limiter, or set your gains to avoid hard clipping.


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

xDeLiRiOuSx said:


> Hrm, I dropped off my sub to get an box built yesterday. I told him use .7, but I'm debating if I should call him back and tell him .5 instead. At least with .7, I can go back and block it off to make it .5. Skylar, did you build the box yourself?
> 
> Thanks
> David


I had help building the box.


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

npdang said:


> A ported box 1cft net tuned to 28hz... a limiter, or set your gains to avoid hard clipping.


mine gets pretty low in a 1 cu ft sealed box. Probably a bit large for a sealed setup, but it's good. I don't have any measurements to tell exactly how low though. Low enough for me to be happy, at least.


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## xDeLiRiOuSx (Apr 26, 2005)

.6? Haha Eng, you silly mofo =)
Actually Devin told me he called you and you recommended for him to build a .5 for me. So that's what he's going to do, make a box that's physically about 1.25 cft, but internally block it off to .5. The extra volume is so that the box would fit well in my trunk.

I'll be there around 5:30, maybe closer to 6pm to pick it up.

If I don't run into you tomorrow, i'll probably see you at the socal meet =)

David





dual700 said:


> Funny thing is, he called me about 1 hour ago, asking questions about the driver..
> Do .6, lol. If u need it larger add some polyfill.
> BTW, I am stopping by at his place tomorrow late afternoon after 2 PM.
> When is your box to be done?


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

xDeLiRiOuSx said:


> .6? Haha Eng, you silly mofo =)
> Actually Devin told me he called you and you recommended for him to build a .5 for me. So that's what he's going to do, make a box that's physically about 1.25 cft, but internally block it off to .5. The extra volume is so that the box would fit well in my trunk.
> 
> I'll be there around 5:30, maybe closer to 6pm to pick it up.
> ...


Devin is getting forgetful. He left me a VM to call him back actually, lol.
Ok, I'll see you when I see you then..


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

Just an update, as my DIYMA12 is fully broken in now, all I can say is transparency. The sub makes its presence known, however it moves with such an ease and grace that makes listening to music more of an experiance rather than an observation. The sub does not miss a beat, and I take my statement back about it needing to be in a bigger enclosure to play lower. Mine in a .5 play as low as necessary. And haven't heard the "pop" since a few weeks ago when I was trying to hear it. A good investment.


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## low (Jun 2, 2005)

diyma baby!


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

skylar112 said:


> Just an update, as my DIYMA12 is fully broken in now, all I can say is transparency. The sub makes its presence known, however it moves with such an ease and grace that makes listening to music more of an experiance rather than an observation. The sub does not miss a beat, and I take my statement back about it needing to be in a bigger enclosure to play lower. Mine in a .5 play as low as necessary. And haven't heard the "pop" since a few weeks ago when I was trying to hear it. A good investment.


And is this with 900w or 700w, i'm going for .9-1cf for use with 500w and hopefully some effeciency gain with the larger box in the low end.


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

I See you have Extremis mids...that's good. You need a strong midbass when you have the DIYMA in a 1 cu ft box. Mine is, and it definitely lacks higher-end bass response in it...but the low end is great.

My problem is that I dont have good midbass to make up for it.


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

drocpsu said:


> I See you have Extremis mids...that's good. You need a strong midbass when you have the DIYMA in a 1 cu ft box. Mine is, and it definitely lacks higher-end bass response in it...but the low end is great.
> 
> My problem is that I dont have good midbass to make up for it.


correction, Rainbow Pro Fi Vanadiums are excellent midbasses.


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

I'm just slightly worried about the popping noise.

I'm still working away on my enclosure and such, waiting for carpet, dreading bondoing it. Anyway if i set my sub gains with a DMM in the 1cf box, should i have any problems with the popping, or better yet the audible clipping noises.

I'm supposed to set my gains to 44v on a 50hz 0db tone, mabey its a 1khz (not exactly sure). But should this give me any problems.

BTW i lvoe my extremis', just ready to get them playing there appropriate bands.

Also could you elaborate more on your FR........lacking upper end, say from what to what? I have plenty of EQ so hopefully i can adjust what i need.


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

demon2091tb said:


> I'm just slightly worried about the popping noise.
> 
> I'm still working away on my enclosure and such, waiting for carpet, dreading bondoing it. Anyway if i set my sub gains with a DMM in the 1cf box, should i have any problems with the popping, or better yet the audible clipping noises.
> 
> ...


I haven't had time to play any test tones or anything to determine exactly where the dip is, but if I had to guess, i'd probably say 70-80hz. I have my sub and mid both crossed at 80 and it seems like it's lacking right around the crossover point and a little below it.


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## skylar112 (Dec 8, 2005)

drocpsu said:


> I haven't had time to play any test tones or anything to determine exactly where the dip is, but if I had to guess, i'd probably say 70-80hz. I have my sub and mid both crossed at 80 and it seems like it's lacking right around the crossover point and a little below it.


Derek, I had mine crossed at 80 and 63. I liked 63hz lp better. It was a good compromise for me to have both drivers blend. And demon2091tb, regarding to whether I had the last sub review on the 700 or 900w this was with 900w. I switched it back to the 700w PRS-X720 and still more than I need. That is still at .5 cubic feet. As I'm getting more comfortable with the system even 700w is too much at times for me. So I think that if your application you should be happy with 500w in a .9-1.0 cubic box.


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

Thats what i like to hear.

Right now, before sub displacement, and before Eggshell foam displacement i'm looking right around 1cf, so i'm thinking a good .85cf is what i'll end up with.

Cannot wait to get it up and running


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## drocpsu (May 3, 2005)

skylar112 said:


> Derek, I had mine crossed at 80 and 63. I liked 63hz lp better. It was a good compromise for me to have both drivers blend. And demon2091tb, regarding to whether I had the last sub review on the 700 or 900w this was with 900w. I switched it back to the 700w PRS-X720 and still more than I need. That is still at .5 cubic feet. As I'm getting more comfortable with the system even 700w is too much at times for me. So I think that if your application you should be happy with 500w in a .9-1.0 cubic box.


I agree that 63 would be better. I just can't afford to do it with my current mids. In time though...


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

So is the general consensus here that if you have less power, a larger enclosure size is better?? I have 350w RMS and 1.25 cuft, fyi.


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## Scott Dodge (Nov 6, 2006)

This sub seems like a killer... Any warranty at all? 

I tend to like larger sealed boxes/infinite baffle. How does this sub work in this situation? How is it's upper response? Pretty much die out around 60hz or so?

I'd love to use an eD NINe.2 (450w @ 4 ohm) for the sub, but I think that it won't be enough. If need be, I can make it a NINe.2x which bumps it up to the ~650-700w range.

I already have an eD 12o.14 (not installed yet), and I was just thinking about picking one of these up to give it a try. 

PS- first post. I'm over @ ECA + ICIX as well.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Welcome Scott.

There is a 1yr warranty. I usually try to give the benefit of the doubt, but again obvious abuse will not be warrantied.

The upper end response actually extends flat to about 1-2khz, but in a car it will depend highly on the positioning and location of the driver as well as how obstructive your car is. In my old 94 honda accord sedan, rear firing the sub I could not get anything higher than 80hz with ANY sub.

I think 450w is plenty of power fwiw. Doubling the power to 900w is only a 3db gain. Do be careful with clipping however, as this driver is a bit sensitive to it.


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## xDeLiRiOuSx (Apr 26, 2005)

Price dropped on that DIYMA 12" =) Makes it even a hotter deal at $130. Heck, I might get another one, but then again, I'd have to go buy a bigger box. Sigh...

David


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## evan (Dec 2, 2006)

Is there any reason why this sub would be inappropriate for home audio/theater use in a small sealed enclosure?


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

I've had a few reports of a ringing metal noise that is audible in an open space if you're close enough. You'll never hear it in a car, but in the home it could be annoying.


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## evan (Dec 2, 2006)

npdang said:


> I've had a few reports of a ringing metal noise that is audible in an open space if you're close enough. You'll never hear it in a car, but in the home it could be annoying.


Do you mean kind of like the sound a tube TV makes?


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

No more like rattling a box of nails.


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## CBRworm (Sep 1, 2006)

I have been beating on my DIYMA 12 for a few weeks now with about 500 watts both in the house and in the car. I have not heard this noise. I heard something else which I am attributing to bottoming it due to my box being too big. I am running it up to about 80hz in the car. What conditions can cause it? Do you think it is resonance of the cone material?


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

npdang said:


> I've had a few reports of a ringing metal noise that is audible in an open space if you're close enough. You'll never hear it in a car, but in the home it could be annoying...like rattling a box of nails.


hmmmmm...this concerns me deeply. 
I own a SUV, and I've had my share of annoying anomalies from subs. 
They are absolutely intolerable.

I was a couple of days from buying a set of these. I've never heard ANY sub comparing to the w6v2, least of all the Dayton HO. But if it's true then the Daytons, IDQ's, and Oz MEs are in contention as well. However, I sort of had my mind completely set on the Diymas. 

Any further explanation of all of these strange sounds emanating from this supposed sq sub would be greatly appreciated. And the honesty is sure appreciated.


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

My night gets worse...
E.g., could someone PLEASE explain this (most humbly): *link respectfully removed by me*
Or is this...

A:the sub's response to clipping spoken of?
or 
B: the result of overpowering?

Regardless, it seems like some rude hick abusing and disrespecting the driver 
(after viewing the subsequent clips).


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## evan (Dec 2, 2006)

mikechec9 said:


> My night gets worse...
> E.g., could someone PLEASE explain this (most humbly): http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b276/lilmaniac2/?action=view&current=DSCN0679.flv


What concerns you about that? They put ~3000w to the sub and destroyed it. Seems logical to me. Were you planning on running yours with 3000w?


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

I believe I could kick the **** out of any sub like that if I had nothing better to do.

I've had the DIYMA for a few weeks in a 1.0 cubes with 800w and now a .5 with 350 and it makes no clicks, pops, whines, barks, meows, etc what so ever. I don't get it.


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

That's good to hear. I looked at the following clips and figured out what was going on. I edited the post since then.

But what i initially stated concerned me was npdang's comment about the ringing in open space. 
Again, I own an SUV so it poses a potential cause for concern 4me. 

I only plan on throwing 400w at each of 3.


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

B-Squad said:


> I've had the DIYMA for a few weeks in a 1.0 cubes with 800w and now a .5 with 350 and it makes no clicks, pops, whines, barks, meows, etc what so ever. I don't get it.


Again, very comforting. 
Which one do you prefer, the 1 or .5?


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## evan (Dec 2, 2006)

I think maybe he was referring more to the fact that an open space (a room) is potentially dead quiet, where as no vehicle can ever be that quiet.

From what I can gather, the DIYMA12's are some of the best SQ subs you can get for $130. Nothing in life is free, so if you are looking for the perfect sub for less money than Sony Explode prices you might not find it. I hear the Aura 12's are sweet.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

There is SO much reflection in a car...plus rattling...plus your avg nasty that no one can seem to fix...well maybe the best of the best...I highly doubt you will hear any ringing if it is even there to begin with. Just my $.02. Not saying your concern isn't legit. For every bad review, there's 5 good ones... or more.

I will be going back to the 1.0 with 16 oz loose poly. Or maybe in between at .75 with 8oz poly and 450w.


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

Sweet. I'll nabb'em after all on Friday  

Actually, I'm somewhat of a perfectionist. And I'm going through a bit of hell getting this truck perfect. Of course that's nothing a person as such will ever realize, but I figured I could get a step closer with this set of $230 subs (at $130) given the rep of their designer. Particularly if they resemble the K2 33KX in sound as much as they do in appearance.

I'll go 1cube b4 displacement, fill, and insulation. Thanks for the .02. 

...Deleting the hick's link...


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Simply put, if you're going to use this in a car for SQ purposes, you have nothing to worry about noise wise and you'll be pretty hard pressed to do better price wise. You don't have to read any further.

For everyone else, there are 2 separate sources of noise. #1 is from clipping. This driver's cone is more sensitive to clipped signals and complains louder. It will sound like a popping noise. This can be a benefit if you want to know that your amp is clipping, or an annoying problem if you want more spl.

The second one is a low level rattling noise. It's from the way the cone is attached to the voice coil on some, but not all of the drivers. IME you'd be very very very hard pressed to hear it in a car be it a suv, truck, or hatchback, or even a large room with the driver in the corner downfiring or firing into the wall. Dual700/Eng had a particularly bad case, but in his Axiom SUV you just couldn't hear it at all. 

As far as the video... I don't think anything needs to be said  I've bent a few cones myself with about 1kw and very heavy clipping... but I've also cracked the cone of my Eclipse/TC LMT sw8200 with the same test.


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## mikechec9 (Dec 1, 2006)

I personally appreciate the clarification. 
And sorry for the link. I didn't anticipate that someone doing an "SQ" review would abuse a driver in such a way. I had to scroll a bit further through his clips to see what he was doing (then I realized it was ROE  ) 
So maybe he wasn't involved in the review at all.

Anyway, I'll be building and placing over the holidays, so I'll list my thoughts then. 
I sold my Brahma MKII's bc of awful CS and have been searching for comparable sq performance ever since. 

looking 4ward 2xmas


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## VaVroom1 (Dec 2, 2005)

B-Squad said:


> I will be going back to the 1.0 with 16 oz loose poly. Or maybe in between at .75 with 8oz poly and 450w.


could you share why do you switch from 1cuft to 0.5cuft and back to 1cuft again?

i already have my mdf cut and will be screwing up the planks for a 0.5cuft box this weekend. your comments will be very much appreciated.


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## Wild Child (Feb 16, 2006)

I've got mine in .5~ cubes and its money


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## 95Legend (Jun 24, 2005)

i'm hoping this sub would be an improvement from my IDmax


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## dual700 (Mar 6, 2005)

I can't wait to hear my twins next week in my IASCA car.. 
1 cu each..


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

I just measured one of my two diyma subs, and the specs are quite a bit off of what's published. This is worth reading, particularly if you're using something besides a sealed box.

First off, the specs on the diyma have disappeared from the site. I found a copy on the internet, but it would be nice if they weren't removed off diymobileaudio.com.

diyma specs I found online: 

_* Recommended for sealed box only, from: 0.25 cft. to 1 cft. Due to
the extremely high internal pressure in small sealed boxes, larger
boxes of 1cft, or leaky small boxes under .5cft are recommended for
high output applications.
* 0.5 cubic feet for a butterworth (.707 QTC) alignment
* Maximum thermal powerhandling: 1000 watts with typical music
* Mechanical powerhandling depends on box size and program material.
* Single 4 ohm voice coil
* QTS: .354
* FS: 25hz
* VAS: 41.7 L
* RE: 3.6 Ohm
* BL: 22
* SPL: 84.3 dbwm
* Le: 1.3mh
* Xmax: 23mm 1 way (71% bl, 25% cms)
* Xmech: 64mm peak to peak
* Weight: 37 lbs
* Cutout diameter: 28cm
* Mounting depth: 16cm
* Driver volume: .15 cft_

And here's what I measure five minutes ago. Note the QTS value is off by almost FIFTY percent!!! This will completely bork your enclosure if you relied on the published specs to design a bandpass, vented or horn enclosure 

P.S. note I didn't measure VAS, I'm lazy LOL
P.P.S. These specs are so far off the published specs, I re-measured one of my other subs to be sure my test bed wasn't screwed up. The other sub measured the same it did two years ago, so the test bed is OK 
P.P.P.S. Before anyone starts worrying that their sub is junk, 80% of the speakers out there don't measure even close to their published specs. This is fairly normal, and it's why I encourage everyone to MEASURE your drivers.

_
measured Aug 24th 2008:
* f(s)= 27.59 Hz
* R(e)= 3.77 Ohms
* Z(max)= 50.72 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 7.625
* Q(es)= 0.612
* Q(ts)= 0.567
* L(e)= 2.03 mH
_


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## kappa546 (Apr 11, 2005)

how did the other measure? is this one new or lightly used? Qts will lower once all the soft parts loosen up but i can't imagine it ever dropping that much... that's weird.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I am a newbie on this forum! So forgive me if it is a stupid question! I have heard alot about these DIYMA 12" on other forums. I have always been a ID MAX 12 on 1100rmw kindof man I had that set up in my last two vehicles, so a total of about 8 years with my max!

My wife got a 08 civic and It is hard for me not to want big and loud.

I am trying to SQ in her civic. I like SQ myself anyways also. I am trying to learn as much as i can about these DIYMA's. I was leaning towards and IDQ 12 or something of that nature. I was planning on getting her 500 - 600rms range on 1 - 12" speaker in a sealed box to save her some trunk space. I was going to get her a new smaller box, but i have a left over 1 cubic feet sealed box that i used to have my ID Max in! Do you think that would be a good set-up for her? 

PS she is no show car or nothin


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

As far as I'm aware, npdang has measured several of his subs. For someone very familiar with the Klippel and having tested many drivers, I'm hard-pressed to believe npdang is off on his numbers. I expect some variation, but that is quite off in terms of numbers. For one, the Fs indicates a cone mass around 50g lighter then posted, either that or Cms needs to be lower with a stiffer suspension. BL needs to be a bit lower too at something more along 17-18 versus the rated 22 to get that high a Qes.

New vs. broken in, warm weather vs. cold weather, even changes in humidity will change some of the characteristics. I'm not sure if npdang has kept an eye on the production of the units and have tested samples during the production run for consistency. Maybe materials where sourced from somewhere else during part of the run, using a different rubber surround. Things can happen.

Ideally, one would measure their own sub, hopefully accurately. My understanding is that testing, even the basic at-home variety is still subject to a LOT of error depending on how one tests.

Small note on your specs:
The sealed box size will be more along the lines of 2 cu.ft. ideal and with a F3 of 35Hz.
The ported box size would be 3.7 cu.ft. tuned to 20Hz with a F3 of 17Hz.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Ok, I was seriously just about to hit the buy button on ebay, but Patrick Bateman's post has me worried. I need the box to be .5c to 1.0c, and if the QTS varries that much I can't do it. NPDANG - Any comments to Patrick Bateman's post?


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Yeah, tough to say. It would be nice for Patrick to clearly go over his test method as well as if the numbers were repeatable.

If it matters, I run my DIYMA in 1 cu.ft. ported to 29Hz, which is what npdang's specs point to as ideal. Being in an overly small design, if the numbers were that high, I would come to expect a constrained sound. the response would also be a little peaky, basically a +3dB bump around 50Hz when modeled up off Patrick's specs and my box. I don't get this from the sub.

The only question is if some of the subs are off such as Patrick hints to.


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## dftnz7 (Mar 2, 2008)

Well some of them pop, some crackle, some fail easy while some don't, some rattle like a box of nails, I am sure there are some that don't measure exactly to spec either. Makes sense to me.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

donkeypunch22 said:


> Ok, I was seriously just about to hit the buy button on ebay, but Patrick Bateman's post has me worried. I need the box to be .5c to 1.0c, and if the QTS varries that much I can't do it. NPDANG - Any comments to Patrick Bateman's post?


Re-read his comments closely. Are you designing a bandpass, vented, or horn loaded enclosure? If you are, you will need to measure ANY driver you purchase. With the exception of a very few select brands out there, you will always find drivers that deviate from published specs, and a few that will be grossly different. 

Personally, I've tested a wide sample and never come across a Qts that high. I'm not really even able to explain how it's possible. It doesn't mean that it doesn't exist, but it also doesn't rule out any number of other factors. From my own experience and given the number of DIYMA subs I've tested, I don't feel that it's a big concern.

Another thing to consider is the applicability of small signal parameters to real world use, especially in a sealed enclosure. At higher volumes and as the temperature begins to build up in the driver, the published small signal specs just go completely out the window. This is why you will rarely see me comment on it in my own reviews.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

dftnz7 said:


> Well some of them pop, some crackle, some fail easy while some don't, some rattle like a box of nails, I am sure there are some that don't measure exactly to spec either. Makes sense to me.


Well, almost any speaker brand no matter how good will always have production variances. I paid $500 for a pair of Scan-Speak air-circs that buzzed like crazy, and $350 for a pair of d2904's that had the cheapest 5 cent terminals that fell off when I barely touched them. With the exception of the Air circs, I couldn't even get them warrantied. At least when you buy a sub from me, you're pretty much guaranteed to be taken care of.


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## guitarsail (Oct 12, 2007)

evan said:


> What concerns you about that? They put ~3000w to the sub and destroyed it. Seems logical to me. Were you planning on running yours with 3000w?


Why the hell would someone do that and piss away their money and a good sub like that!?!?!


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks npdang! That's all the reassurance I needed. I am building a sealed box, and want to purchase your sub. I am in Hawaii, so shal we PM or still do it via Ebay? 

One question/favor... will you test a sub for it's "personal" T/S parameters and then sell it to me with a "birth sheet" that has its specs. I know you're right and that the T/S numbers don't matter given my situation, but I'd be willing to pay extra for your time. I just have no way of measuring the T/S numbers here, and what if I do change my mind and vent it. Thanks again!


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

donkeypunch22,

get that ass out here and go between .45 and .65 cubic feet [ use more power than needed and keep the gain lower ], { if you want to use 150 watts get a 300 watt amp at 4 ohms }.... Kick it !!


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

You know what, a$$hole, I have an Audi, too. An S4 avant to be exact. And I was thinking of mounting it butt out like you have it. Advantages/disadvantages?


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Tested mine sealed, 1.5 cu.ft. box. This would be a Qb of 0.5 to npdang's specs and F3 around 50Hz or Qb of over 0.71 according to Patrick's specs and a F3 of a rather low 35Hz.

Listening impressions, the low end isn't strong enough to hint towards such a high Qts, at least my DIYMA sub. I would expect a much more extended and fuller bottom end if the Qts was towards 0.6. My DIYMA sealed simply doesn't do that, so no Qts driver for me.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Just PM me and we'll work out the details.


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## donkeypunch22 (Nov 5, 2008)

PM sent. Thanks!


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

mvw2 said:


> Yeah, tough to say. It would be nice for Patrick to clearly go over his test method as well as if the numbers were repeatable.
> 
> If it matters, I run my DIYMA in 1 cu.ft. ported to 29Hz, which is what npdang's specs point to as ideal. Being in an overly small design, if the numbers were that high, I would come to expect a constrained sound. the response would also be a little peaky, basically a +3dB bump around 50Hz when modeled up off Patrick's specs and my box. I don't get this from the sub.
> 
> The only question is if some of the subs are off such as Patrick hints to.


After much research and deliberation, I bought a DIYMA sub last night. The 2 things that sold me are (1) many people who have tried many different SQ subs prefer the DIYMA sub and (2) the box requirements are ridiculously minimal. WinISD points to *1 cu ft ported *and tuned to 29Hz as mvw2 mentions. Its too nice a curve to pass up. Especially, for $119 shipped after live cashback.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Got my brand new DIYMA 12 from Brown today. I already had a 1 cu ft box from my last car. It isn't the permanent box that I am going to use under the back seat of my Ridgeline (that will have a Fiberglass back side to get the mounting depth I need). However, I am able to fold up the 25% back seat on the passenger side and place the box there for now.

I have an Alpine MRF-F545 bridged with 500W for the sub. Other two channels are running 125 each to a set of Dynaudio 340 3 ways. Midbass in heavily damped doors, mids and tweets in kick panels that are not quite complete. Former sub in that same box was a Boston Pro 12.5LF. A pretty good sounding sub. But, I won't be using it again. 

First impression with some Flim and the BB's (jazz fusion for you youngsters) and a few tracks off of the Iasca disc: WOW. Seamless blend with the dyns. It seems like the dynaudios got better. I only had a few minutes, so a quick run through of "burning down the house" from Talking Heads. Outstanding. A few other jazz tracks and I just couldn't get over how seamless. I didn't play with tuning much. Crossover set at 60 hz. The DIYMA is one stellar performer. Ran into the house and grabbed some Pop of my wifes, thinking that it was really accurate, but how would it do with synthetic bass? Once again, I am amazed. Put in Madonna and the air started pulsing. tons of bass, but still tight and accurate.

I can't wait to spend some time trying different songs, playing with the tuning, installing my old Audio Control EQT's, etc. But I have a feeling that I am not going to need much EQ on the bass. 

Anyway, just wanted to drop a quick note and say this has to be the most value per dollar for a sub on the market. If the average car audio buying had a clue about sound quality, a million of these things would be sold. Thanks to DIYMA for a great site and for rekindling my love for car audio.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

It always puts a smile on my face when I read someone's first impressions of this sub. I agree 100% that it is incredible and it's a crying shame that it isn't still in production! 

Just for fun when you do get around to messing with the tuning... Especially since this is in the cabin of a Ridgeline. Try bumping the LP filter on the sub up to 80 or 100Hz. The real beauty of the R12 is it's ability to play up high and still remain invisible. I run 2 of these in my car with a LP filter of 100Hz with a 12db/oct slope.

Zach


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Boostedrex said:


> It always puts a smile on my face when I read someone's first impressions of this sub. I agree 100% that it is incredible and it's a crying shame that it isn't still in production!
> 
> Just for fun when you do get around to messing with the tuning... Especially since this is in the cabin of a Ridgeline. Try bumping the LP filter on the sub up to 80 or 100Hz. The real beauty of the R12 is it's ability to play up high and still remain invisible. I run 2 of these in my car with a LP filter of 100Hz with a 12db/oct slope.
> 
> Zach



I agree with Zach on this one. When I first installed my R12 I had it LP'd at 50hz, and was actually very disappointed with the outcome. I decided to up the LP to 80hz and it was a night and day difference. I honestly think you'll be even more impressed once you bump the LP up a few hertz.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> I honestly think you'll be even more impressed once you bump the LP up *AN OCTAVE*.


Fixed.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback guys. Hope to get some time this weekend to play!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Boostedrex said:


> Fixed.


Whatever 

I said 80 because I didn't notice a difference from 80-100hz so I left it at 80.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

rockinridgeline said:


> Got my brand new DIYMA 12 from Brown today. I already had a 1 cu ft box from my last car. It isn't the permanent box that I am going to use under the back seat of my Ridgeline (that will have a Fiberglass back side to get the mounting depth I need). However, I am able to fold up the 25% back seat on the passenger side and place the box there for now.
> 
> I have an Alpine MRF-F545 bridged with 500W for the sub. Other two channels are running 125 each to a set of Dynaudio 340 3 ways. Midbass in heavily damped doors, mids and tweets in kick panels that are not quite complete. Former sub in that same box was a Boston Pro 12.5LF. A pretty good sounding sub. But, I won't be using it again.
> 
> ...


Would you be kind enough to do a quick comparo between 12.5 and DIYMA? Been running 12.5 for a while, seriously considering DIYMA.

Thanks!


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

Let me start by saying this: I want quality, not quantity. I never listen to rap. I like jazz, high energy fusion. I love music, but it has to be well recorded and clean. My opinion is that I shouldn't be able to tell where the sub is in the car. I just want to hear the music as closely as possible to the live performance.

That being my tastes, comparing the 12.5 to the DIYMA in a 1 cu. ft. sealed box, there is no comparison. the 12.5 wants a much larger box to have extended low frequency response. What happens is the 12.5 gets a peaky response. In other words, it isn't linear and doesn't go as low. Based on T/S parameters of the 12.5, the total Qtc of the Boston in a 1 cu. ft box is about 1.15. I am not sure on the DIYMA, but I would guess that it is closer to .8? Someone might correct me on that.

what happens is there is plenty of bass with the 12.5, but it is a bit boomy. On top of that, the drum kit sounds like it is in the middle of the car, instead of up front. The way that I dealt with that issue was to cross the 12.5 over from 60 down with 12 db per octave, and bring in my Dyn 160's from 60 up at 6 db per octave. That helps move the midbass part of the stage forward, but puts more stress on the midbass at high volume.

Had a chance to tweak the crossovers just for a few minutes today. Take this with a grain of salt because it is what works in my car with my acoustics. I am now running the DIYMA at 80 hz with 12 db/octave and the dyns at 60 and up with 24 db per octave. Soundstage moves farther forward, impact sounds like I doubled the power to my midbass.

The DIYMA gives a lot more flexibility because it disappers so well in the system. These crossover settings may not be final, I am still trying to finalize the location of my mids and tweets in the kicks for best imaging prior to starting to glass the kicks. I also have only applied a small amount of EQ for two noticeable peaks in the system response when running test tones and listening for peakiness by ear. Again, I have not had a lot of time to tune and will be more detailed about it when I have a full day to devote. 

What I can see the DIYMA doing for me is giving me the opportunity to really play with crossover points and getting the sound just they way that I want it. With the Boston, there was only one way that the system sounded reasonably good in my car. Even then, the Boston never seemed "connected" with the midbass. The difference with the DIYMA is that it not only seems connected, it disappears. Bottom line? The Boston is an excellent sub, but IMO it yearns for a box about twice the size as the DIYMA, and I still wonder if it would be as transparent as the DIYMA given a box twice the size. For me and my install, the DIYMA is the absolute clear winner, and an incredible bargain at that.


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## zwc0442 (Oct 24, 2008)

I just got my diyma 12 yesterday and pictures just don't really show how nice this sub is. Very nice quality. I was wondering how the diyma would work with a passive radiator? I'm currently running a boston g5 with a gtr and it sounds pretty decent. Has anyone ever used them with a passive radiator or should I just stick with a sealed enclosure?


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Ported, pretty much the same thing.

PR's smaller, porting's cheaper.

Good results


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Ridgeline, the Qtc for the DIYMA R12 in a 1.0 ft^3 box is actually about .5 and the Qtc is .707 in a .5 ft^3 box. 

You're running a very low HP point for you midbass. I know it might seem counter intuitive, but try bumping the HP up to 80Hz with a 12db/slope and see what you think. It may not work for you, but it might. If nothing else it will only take a minute to change around.  Your MW160's will thank you though. LOL!

Zach


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I tried that just briefly and felt like a lost a bit of the impact up front. But then again, I have spent a grand total of about 10 minutes tuning since I put the sub in. Put all new windows in my house this weekend.

Interesting that the Qtc is that low for the DIYMA. I could find complete T/S paramaters on it, but npdang told me to put it in 1 cu ft and it just so happened that was the size of the box that I had. If I can go to .5 cu ft that would free up some room for me. I'm probably going to slap together a quick rectangular box that size and see how it sounds. If it works well, I'll make my final box that size. It will be a bit more complicated with two sides being fiberglassed.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Thanks a lot for your review. I do agree with you in some aspects, but man, does the car and overall set up play a huge difference!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

rockinridgeline said:


> I tried that just briefly and felt like a lost a bit of the impact up front. But then again, I have spent a grand total of about 10 minutes tuning since I put the sub in. Put all new windows in my house this weekend.
> 
> Interesting that the Qtc is that low for the DIYMA. I could find complete T/S paramaters on it, but npdang told me to put it in 1 cu ft and it just so happened that was the size of the box that I had. If I can go to .5 cu ft that would free up some room for me. I'm probably going to slap together a quick rectangular box that size and see how it sounds. If it works well, I'll make my final box that size. It will be a bit more complicated with two sides being fiberglassed.



The reason for the 1 ft^3 recommendation is because it's next to impossible to blow the sub in that box. The box needed for a Qtc of .707 is .5 ft^3 net though. The problem with that alignment is that you can't squeeze as much SPL out of the R12 with that box. If you try to, you will end up with a torn cone. The cone is so thin and light and the motor is so strong on this sub that the internal air pressure in a .5 ft^3 makes it possible for the cone to be overwhelmed by the combination of air spring and motor force. Here are the complete T/S for the DIYMA R12 though.

Fs: 25.21 Hz
Qms: 4.748
Vas: 41.71 L
Cms: 121.9 um/N
Mms: 326.8 g
Rms: 10.91 mohms
Xmax: 23 mm
Xmec: 32 mm
Dia: 25 cm
Sd: 491 sq. cm.
Vd: 1.129 L
Qes: 0.383
Re: 3.6 ohms
Le: 1.319 mH
Z: 4 ohms
BL: 22.07 N/A / Tm
Pe: 1000w (up to)
Qts: 0.354
no: 0.169
SPL: 84.3 1W/1m
SPL: 87.89 2.8V/1m

Zach


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

what alignment are you running?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I run 2 of them in .86 ft^3 each and LOVE them there. But for the year and a half prior, I used 1 R12 in .5 ft^3 and was very pleased with that as well. It had more than enough output for me either way. But I don't consider myself someone who listens really loud.


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## Griffith (Jul 10, 2008)

Great review rockinridgeline. I agree with you with everything you've stated so far. 

I love this line:
"Soundstage moves farther forward, impact sounds like I doubled the power to my midbass."

I too run the Dynaudios for front stage, I have the 7" mid HP at 80hz and haven't been happier since.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I started to get all tied up in running computer simulations with the T/S parameters, but then I woke up. I have a 1 cu ft box and it is pretty easy to adjust that volume down and see what it sounds like. Ultimately, what it "sounds" like is all that matters. Just need to spend some time playing with it. In the meantime, I have found myself getting to the office and not wanting to get out of the car.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

I'm really intrigued by these but I wanna listen to one before I commit. Anyone in the DFW area wanna meet up?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

rockinridgeline said:


> In the meantime, I have found myself getting to the office and not wanting to get out of the car.


Bro, I have that problem every morning. I actually leave my house a few minutes early because I do sit in my car once I get to work and listen to at least 1 song if not 2 before going in and starting my day. I always walk in the office with a smile on my face. 

Good call on just adding "space fillers" to see what size box you like the best. That's what I would suggest you do too since you have the 1 ft^3. But is that 1 ft^3 after displacement or before? If it's before, then you're already at .85 ft^3.


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

It's one cube net with the old Sub. The DIYMA takes up a little more space, so it is probably a hair under 1, 0.95 at least.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Should work out very well in that enclosure.

Mine is just a hair over 1, probably 1.05 and it's very enjoyable.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Should work out very well in that enclosure.

Mine is just a hair over 1, probably 1.05 and it's very enjoyable.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I agree with bass_lover1. twice. LOL! The displacement of the DIYMA is .15 ft^3 if you didn't know for sure. IMHO anywhere between .80-1 ft^3 is great for a DIYMA. It makes the bottom end roll off just a bit more shallow and also increases your "safety net" for this sub making it pretty close to bulletproof!


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just wanted to say thanks for posting all this info about the DIYMA 12. This thread helped me to decide on what sub to order. I just placed my order tonight and now I can't wait to get this thing in my hands. This thing looks huge in pictures


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

JayHRC51 said:


> Just wanted to say thanks for posting all this info about the DIYMA 12. This thread helped me to decide on what sub to order. I just placed my order tonight and now I can't wait to get this thing in my hands. This thing looks huge in pictures


It does have a rather sexy ass, which is why I intend to invert mine whenever I finish off my box.


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well, I got mine today. I haven't had a ton of subs in my hands, but this thing seems crazy heavy for a 12! I also can't believe the mirror finish on the magnet covers either. Fit and finish, this bad boy gets an easy 9.0. Now I'm dying to hear it...


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

snaimpally said:


> WinISD points to *1 cu ft ported *and tuned to 29Hz as mvw2 mentions. Its too nice a curve to pass up.


Out of curiosity, what design did you use for your box? I just downloaded WinISD, I'm running the numbers and the measurements aren't really making sense to me. Would you mind elaborating on your design to help guide me down the right path. 

I'll be running 450w to the sub, and this vented enclosure option looks really interesting. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

See my old thread for specifics.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...iyma-x-mas-present-brand-new-diyma-sub-p.html

Just follow the numbers, and it'll be a great box. I'll make a helpful hint. The port is 1.5" tall, so 2 hunks of spare 3/4" MDF pieces along each leg of the port make lining everything up really easy and gets the spacing exact for the port.

I'll note the bottom end will probably be a hair strong in-car. It's great in-home, but expect to EQ down the bottom end a little.

Basically sealed you may EQ up a little, ported you may EQ down a little. Either way works. Ported gains a little group delay but relies less on excursion. What's closer at the start depends upon the car and its cabin gain. My car doesn't have much, so I've come to rely on ported designs or sealed designs with a very low F3.


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

Sweet, thanks for the link, that is a huge help!


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

can u re post the photo?


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

hoping to see some install pics of this sub? anybody running inverted? pics please! ill be ordering mine thursday


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

BKJT05 said:


> can u re post the photo?


What angle are you looking for? Just cone?, Just motor? all the above? I can post pics of mine if you can't see the originals.


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

JayHRC51 said:


> What angle are you looking for? Just cone?, Just motor? all the above? I can post pics of mine if you can't see the originals.


anything and everything. mine will be inverted, but all pics are cool with me.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I know I've posted these in a lot of places, so I apologize to you guys who have seen them 8 million times.


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

thats so sexy! im so pumped bout this sub! exspecially sense im mounting inverted as well! just such a sexy ass! more pics please! even if they are posted 100 different threads, im sure nobody minds! just shows how sweet of a sub they are!


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

bump for more pics!


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

my DIYMA box...1cf tuned to 29hz


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Nice looking box. Single or Ext cab Ranger?


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> Nice looking box. Single or Ext cab Ranger?


ext cab, but im still trying to keep it small as possible. this box only got a 7" depth with the double baffle.


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## Rayraysi (Jan 7, 2009)

A little off topic but would the sub channel on a JL 500/5 be enough for the DIYMA R12?? Or should i just get a mono sub amp and a separate amp for mids/highs instead of a 5 channel?


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

I've run 200 watt PPI A404 on it with good sound. 500 watts from Zapco sounds even better. 1K watts would be real fun to try. It really comes down to how much you want. It is not an inefficient sub, but will handle quite a bit of power.


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## JayRich (Mar 25, 2009)

I can't wait to try it out. should be here on monday


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Rayraysi said:


> A little off topic but would the sub channel on a JL 500/5 be enough for the DIYMA R12?? Or should i just get a mono sub amp and a separate amp for mids/highs instead of a 5 channel?


I personally think that you'd be fine with the sub channel of the 500/5. What other 5 channel amps have you looked at and what is your price range for that amp?


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## Rayraysi (Jan 7, 2009)

I've really only looked at the PDX-5. As far as price range i'd say 500-700 dollars. I'm open to a used amp too and any suggestions you may have. Thanks.


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

Rayraysi said:


> I've really only looked at the PDX-5. As far as price range i'd say 500-700 dollars. I'm open to a used amp too and any suggestions you may have. Thanks.


$500-700 price range, id say get a PDX 100.4 to run your mid/highs, and a PDX600.1 to run the DIYMA...thats my plan for amps!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

For the $500-700 range I'd pick up the new model Zuki 5 channel.  $550 is the asking price. Check out Amplifiers and scroll to the very bottom of the amplifier page. SPL 5 channel is the model. I ran a DIYMA R12 off half of a bridged Zuki 4 channel and LOVED it.


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

Boostedrex said:


> For the $500-700 range I'd pick up the new model Zuki 5 channel.  $550 is the asking price. Check out Amplifiers and scroll to the very bottom of the amplifier page. SPL 5 channel is the model. I ran a DIYMA R12 off half of a bridged Zuki 4 channel and LOVED it.


what does that zuki put out? the web page says 5 watts x4 and 1watt x1?


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

BKJT05 said:


> what does that zuki put out? the web page says 5 watts x4 and 1watt x1?


It will put that out 

Heres an amp that is rated for more and it's cheaper to buy [ win-win]

BOSS DD2600 CLASS D CAR MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER MONO AMP - eBay (item 290305181274 end time Apr-22-09 22:47:33 PDT)

Here's the other 4 channels ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BOSS-BL1600-160...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

and you have money left in your pocket...


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## wmflyfisher (Mar 17, 2009)

Very interesting sub!! I just came across this thread.

I am currently running a 12W6V2 in a 1cf sealed box off a 500.1 amp. Wonder if this sub would sound similar in the same box off the same power?? If so, I might be up for snagging one! Might be able to make a little cash as well! My current setup sounds great. Just wondering how this would compare (sub and amp wise).


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## wmflyfisher (Mar 17, 2009)

Very interesting sub!! I just came across this thread.

I am currently running a 12W6V2 in a 1cf sealed box off a 500.1 amp. Wonder if this sub would sound similar in the same box off the same power?? If so, I might be up for snagging one! Might be able to make a little cash as well! My current setup sounds great. Just wondering how this would compare? 

Sorry for the double post.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

It's been quite a while since I've gotten to listen to a w6v2 driver, but you can't really go wrong either way.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Boss amps are rated basically double what they really put out(Zed's words). If you want a realistic value for them, cut their rated rms wattage in half. If you do this, you'll also realize that they aren't even that cost effective. :laugh:


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## JayRich (Mar 25, 2009)

I just got mine today and I've had over 15 or so "Super" Subs and this is hands down the best SQ i've found in a subwoofer. Everything is so effortless and it does not miss a beat (literally). This is in my g/f's SUV and I will be buying 2 more just as a back up for my Eclipse SW9152 and selling my 15 tc2000(current back up)


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

JayRich said:


> I just got mine today and I've had over 15 or so "Super" Subs and this is hands down the best SQ i've found in a subwoofer. Everything is so effortless and it does not miss a beat (literally). This is in my g/f's SUV and I will be buying 2 more just as a back up for my Eclipse SW9152 and selling my 15 tc2000(current back up)


I'm really happy to hear that you're liking the R12 Jay. I told you that you had nothing to worry about.


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## JayRich (Mar 25, 2009)

Boostedrex said:


> I'm really happy to hear that you're liking the R12 Jay. I told you that you had nothing to worry about.


Yeah you were sure enough dead on. I mean it kinda like the movie the matrix, my eyes have been opened up to what true SQ should sound like and I can't go back lol


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## JayRich (Mar 25, 2009)

What I still can't figure is how is it possible to make such a Quality speaker for such and inexpensive price. I'd think everyone would own this speaker considering that its quality is that of speakers 3,4 or even more times the price


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

JayRich said:


> What I still can't figure is how is it possible to make such a Quality speaker for such and inexpensive price. I'd think everyone would own this speaker considering that its quality is that of speakers 3,4 or even more times the price


Well, to be fair, the original price was like 240 + shipping IIRC. Though, because of the issues some had with them, they kinda got black balled, and it wasn't until they were getting cleared on eBay for a ridiculous price that people started buying them again.


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## t-man (Dec 4, 2008)

I am running a Tantrum 1200.1 and I plan to run 2 DIYMA's. If I put each one in a 1 cu. ft. sealed can I give each one 600-700 watts? I don't plan to push them that hard but want to make sure they will not blow in a moment of weakness.  My guess is I will be pushing around 500 to each. I just ordered them from the sale and can't wait to get them in. 

Thanks for the input!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Yes, they should be fine. I'm currently running about half of what you plan to do, and it takes it just fine, but I also know where the limit is on the driver, because I can get it to make noises when pushed really hard.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

t-man said:


> I am running a Tantrum 1200.1 and I plan to run 2 DIYMA's. If I put each one in a 1 cu. ft. sealed can I give each one 600-700 watts? I don't plan to push them that hard but want to make sure they will not blow in a moment of weakness.  My guess is I will be pushing around 500 to each. I just ordered them from the sale and can't wait to get them in.
> 
> Thanks for the input!


I have run more power than that to a single DIYMA R12 before and it handled it just fine. The box size really is key with this driver and your planned 1 ft^3 box is spot on for that kind of power handling IME.


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## johnmasters (Mar 30, 2009)

Can someone please list the mounting depth in inches and whether anything can be removed in order to decrease the depth.

For a sub built for small enclosures, mounting depth does not seem to be part of the discussion at all.


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## johnmasters (Mar 30, 2009)

Double post!


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

16 cm, or approx 6.3"


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

It is 6.3" as someone stated, and as far as I know there is nothing that can be taken off to make the mount depth less.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

05_sprcrw said:


> It is 6.3" as someone stated, and as far as I know there is nothing that can be taken off to make the mount depth less.


That would be correct. The depth is the depth, no rubber boots or anything that can be removed.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> That would be correct. The depth is the depth, no rubber boots or anything that can be removed.


Its good to know I can occasionally be right 
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I've got two of these bad boys coming (thanks to the sale, simply unbeatable) and I'll be working up a semi-stealth install for them. Some subs must have space behind them for pole venting. How do these fare? How much would you leave under them?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I'd leave 1/2"-3/4" minimum behind them. The pole vent is fairly large on these.


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## johnmasters (Mar 30, 2009)

I feel disappointed that the Depth may keep me from trying one of these out. The box was built to fit under the spare tire cover in a 2nd gen RX7 convertible and I dont think That I can get it any deeper. I was looking forward to trying the DIYMA instead of the Magv4 for cost reasons.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Ya I am going to have my work cut out on this one as well. I have 5.875" of depth under a seat in my crew cab to work with. Probably not going to happen so I will have to do a center console build (not what I wanted to do but could be worse).


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Well, to be fair, the original price was like 240 + shipping IIRC. Though, because of the issues some had with them, they kinda got black balled, and it wasn't until they were getting cleared on eBay for a ridiculous price that people started buying them again.


I've had mine for a month now and i still haven't installed it. What was the major issue that people were running into? Do I have reason to be concerned about anything?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

JayHRC51 said:


> I've had mine for a month now and i still haven't installed it. What was the major issue that people were running into? Do I have reason to be concerned about anything?


No, you have no reason to be concerned. Here's what was going on.

The cones on the R12 are paper thin aluminum and the motor is so grossly powerful and overbuilt that it's not even funny. This combination results in an amazingly accurate sub. However, when put in a small sealed box ie... .3-.6 ft^3 sealed and then pushed really hard the internal pressure of that box would overcome the strength of the cone and the motor would tear the cone apart. When used in boxes .8 ft^3 and larger, I've never heard of one failing. These things have a TON of excursion and as long as the internal box pressures don't get too high then all is well. 

Long story short, don't put this sub in .5 ft^3 and then expect it to be an SPL champion. If used as intended, as a dedicated SQ sub, then it's hard to beat at ANY price level. The only 2 subs I've heard that are as good are the SI Mag v4 and the $1000+ Dynaudio Esotar 12". I hope that helps some.

Zach


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks for that info, in the middle of building an enclosure for this sub and it will be seeing 500 rms, I was going to shoot for a .6 ft^3 but now I think I will try and gain an extra .2 ft^3 to .5 ft^3 if possible.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

FWIW, I run mine in .85 ft^3 net sealed each and there's some polyfill in each box. The subs have seen as low as 300 watts each and as high as 800 each in these boxes with no ill effects.

If you can get to .7-.8 ft^3 *net* and add polyfill as well, I think you'll be just fine.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks I will definitely keep that in mind, I am building it inside of a center console so I am some what limited but I think I should be able to net that no problems.


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## acousticguitar (Jul 15, 2005)

i am just going to throw my DIYMA into a prefab like this:

Sonic Sub Box: 1SL12-1.0 (GRAY CARPET) (1sl1210-gray) 12" Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Subwoofer Enclosures Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

its going to sit in my trunk anyways, so i hope it sounds good. getting sub and box early next week, then a phone call to my installer is in order.


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## acousticguitar (Jul 15, 2005)

i am just going to throw my DIYMA into a prefab like this:

Sonic Sub Box: 1SL12-1.0 (GRAY CARPET) (1sl1210-gray) 12" Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Subwoofer Enclosures Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

its going to sit in my trunk anyways, so i hope it sounds good. getting sub and box early next week, then a phone call to my installer is in order.


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## blamus (Mar 9, 2009)

acousticguitar said:


> i am just going to throw my DIYMA into a prefab like this:
> 
> Sonic Sub Box: 1SL12-1.0 (GRAY CARPET) (1sl1210-gray) 12" Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures Subwoofer Enclosures Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix
> 
> its going to sit in my trunk anyways, so i hope it sounds good. getting sub and box early next week, then a phone call to my installer is in order.


Oh I just got the exact same box but the 0.7 version, hope I'll be ok! It'll be here on monday! Planning to drive it with 600W RMS, probably down firing (by adding some 'feet' to the face of the box) or corner firing. Any recommendations?


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

JayRich said:


> What I still can't figure is how is it possible to make such a Quality speaker for such and inexpensive price. I'd think everyone would own this speaker considering that its quality is that of speakers 3,4 or even more times the price


I think for 2 reasons... it's not very well promoted, and there's really no market for a sub that doesn't conform to what *most* people expect it to do.

In all honesty, how many people actually try to make their sub disappear? Almost everyone it seems wants their sub to be heard, and the louder the better. I find that most people's conception of a "good SQ" sub is one that can get loud without breaking up... and not necessarily one that is completely "transparent."


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

Too funnay... I was goin to test it in that same box.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

npdang said:


> I think for 2 reasons... it's not very well promoted, and there's really no market for a sub that doesn't conform to what *most* people expect it to do.
> 
> In all honesty, how many people actually try to make their sub disappear? Almost everyone it seems wants their sub to be heard, and the louder the better. I find that most people's conception of a "good SQ" sub is one that can get loud without breaking up... and not necessarily one that is completely "transparent."


+1

I have opened the eyes of a lot of people in my area with this sub and I have not played it yet. I am constantly answering questions on a couple other forums about this woofer. I really am thinking I will buy another for a rainy day.


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## shadowfactory (Oct 20, 2008)

because I'm retarded I just wanted to clarify this but a 1 ft.³ box with the speaker mounted normally in it would be .85 ft.³ net volume because of the .15 ft.³ displacement of the sub itself, correct?

and has anyone lined the inside of the box with other materials such as foam or ensolite to further reduce backwaves in addition to polyfill?

or would those materials lining the box make little difference?


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## acousticguitar (Jul 15, 2005)

blamus said:


> Oh I just got the exact same box but the 0.7 version, hope I'll be ok! It'll be here on monday! Planning to drive it with 600W RMS, probably down firing (by adding some 'feet' to the face of the box) or corner firing. Any recommendations?


Ironically, I thought about going with that size box too. I like the idea of having a .707 qtc, but even the .5 qtc looked good in winisd too. (esp. since my current cross is at 70hz, though i might be changing that to 80-100hz depending on how much i like it since i feel my focal mids are only okay at that range) Also, I wanted a tad more lower extension, and I think the extra bit of volume gets me that. 

I have a feeling the speaker will do well in either enclosure though.


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## JayHRC51 (Dec 21, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> No, you have no reason to be concerned. Here's what was going on.
> 
> The cones on the R12 are paper thin aluminum and the motor is so grossly powerful and overbuilt that it's not even funny. This combination results in an amazingly accurate sub. However, when put in a small sealed box ie... .3-.6 ft^3 sealed and then pushed really hard the internal pressure of that box would overcome the strength of the cone and the motor would tear the cone apart. When used in boxes .8 ft^3 and larger, I've never heard of one failing. These things have a TON of excursion and as long as the internal box pressures don't get too high then all is well.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info! That does help me out. I had no intentions of using it as an spl sub or in a super tiny box. I'm actually planning to try both, 1 cube sealed and a ported enclosure to see what sounds best in my car. 

You had me a little worried for a second their...


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## wmflyfisher (Mar 17, 2009)

Just built the box for my 2 DIYMA's this afternoon and fired them up for the first time with my 500.1. I have to say that they sound pretty dang good without any adjustments to the amp what so ever from running my JL 12W6. I'll post a better review later.


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## fastlane (Apr 6, 2009)

Is anyone running these in a larger vehicle? Due to the economy I sold my 07 Silverado and purchased an Astro Van. :surprised: I was running a Punch 300.1 with a Boston G2 in my truck. I really liked the SQ of the 10" Boston, other than it was a tad underpowered. I'll probably end up upgrading to an amp around 500 watts in the near future but for now it will be running off 350. Do you think one of these will have enough punch in the Astro or am I going to have to go with 2? I know a lot of this is subjective but I figure someone will have some input.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

npdang said:


> I think for 2 reasons... it's not very well promoted, and there's really no market for a sub that doesn't conform to what *most* people expect it to do.
> 
> In all honesty, how many people actually try to make their sub disappear? Almost everyone it seems wants their sub to be heard, and the louder the better. I find that most people's conception of a "good SQ" sub is one that can get loud without breaking up... and not necessarily one that is completely "transparent."


Preach on Nguyen!! That's the biggest issue I've always had with people calling the IDMax an SQ sub. I've never heard it be able to actually disappear, only loud and usually muddy to my ears. 



shadowfactory said:


> because I'm retarded I just wanted to clarify this but a 1 ft.³ box with the speaker mounted normally in it would be .85 ft.³ net volume because of the .15 ft.³ displacement of the sub itself, correct?
> 
> and has anyone lined the inside of the box with other materials such as foam or ensolite to further reduce backwaves in addition to polyfill?
> 
> or would those materials lining the box make little difference?


Joey, I have a layer of Damplifier Pro on the inside walls of my R12 boxes. I highly doubt they needed it, but since they are fiberglass I wanted to try and damp the walls as much as possible. So the inside of the box was first treated with a Duraglass/resin milkshake, then Damp Pro, then polyfill. Overkill FTW!! 



fastlane said:


> Is anyone running these in a larger vehicle? Due to the economy I sold my 07 Silverado and purchased an Astro Van. :surprised: I was running a Punch 300.1 with a Boston G2 in my truck. I really liked the SQ of the 10" Boston, other than it was a tad underpowered. I'll probably end up upgrading to an amp around 500 watts in the near future but for now it will be running off 350. Do you think one of these will have enough punch in the Astro or am I going to have to go with 2? I know a lot of this is subjective but I figure someone will have some input.


You'll be fine. Just run a single R12 in 1ft^3 net ported to 28-29Hz and output shouldn't be any problem in the Astro van. Cheers.

Zach


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## NOFATTYS (Jan 5, 2009)

OK so I spent a bit of money and now I have a dilemma. I have three subs and two sub amps...and I am not sure which ones to keep or sell.

My sub amps are a Zapco DC500.1 which puts out 350x1 at 4ohm and 500x1 at 2ohm. I also have a Zapco C2K6.0 which would be run at 1200x1 bridged at 2ohms. 

My subs are DIYMA 12's x2, or a Zapco CW-12. Should I run the DIYMA's on the 500.1 or the 6.0? the CW-12 will be run off the 6.0. I thought I had everything set...but now im just confused. I listen to literally everything, I like punchy bass, not muddy. These will be installed in a Pontiac G8 GT with a 17.5 cubic ft trunk, and 103 cubic ft passenger space...so there is tons of room to fill.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

NOFATTYS said:


> OK so I spent a bit of money and now I have a dilemma. I have three subs and two sub amps...and I am not sure which ones to keep or sell.
> 
> My sub amps are a Zapco DC500.1 which puts out 350x1 at 4ohm and 500x1 at 2ohm. I also have a Zapco C2K6.0 which would be run at 1200x1 bridged at 2ohms.
> 
> My subs are DIYMA 12's x2, or a Zapco CW-12. Should I run the DIYMA's on the 500.1 or the 6.0? the CW-12 will be run off the 6.0. I thought I had everything set...but now im just confused. I listen to literally everything, I like punchy bass, not muddy. These will be installed in a Pontiac G8 GT with a 17.5 cubic ft trunk, and 103 cubic ft passenger space...so there is tons of room to fill.


Quick answer is that "punchy" bass comes from the front mid-bass (and possibly with a DIYMA sub and its ability to play higher), and I would absolutely run the 6.0 to the DIYMAs if you can. 1200 into 2ohms split amongst two DIYMAs is near ideal, in around a 1.8 cubic foot box (before sub displacement, making it ~.7 after, each) sealed.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> Quick answer is that "punchy" bass comes from the front mid-bass (and possibly with a DIYMA sub and its ability to play higher), and I would absolutely run the 6.0 to the DIYMAs if you can. 1200 into 2ohms split amongst two DIYMAs is near ideal, in around a 1.8 cubic foot box (before sub displacement, making it ~.7 after, each) sealed.


I don't know if I could've put it any better myself. Good call! And you could go down as far as 1.5ft^3 net total box size if you wanted and still be fine in regards to internal box pressures. The 6.0 is for sure the way I would go.


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## wmflyfisher (Mar 17, 2009)

I had some time to tinker with my amp setting this morning and all I can say is wow. I've been running one 12W6 off a 500.1 in my 4Runner for some time now. It sounded great. Last night I built a box for 2 of the DIYMA's and the SQ easily compares to the 12W6 and maybe a bit better. They definitely have more punch. Oh, and I'm running the same amp on both and it has plenty of power with room to spare. I want to also thank everybody here for all the great help. Especially Boost! 

Thanks for the great deal npdang!! You guys better jump on this!!


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## blamus (Mar 9, 2009)

You are swapping 1 12" for 2 12" I sure hope you're getting more punch!


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## wmflyfisher (Mar 17, 2009)

Yeah sorry this is going from one to two.


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## biggie2218 (Apr 13, 2009)

How much depth do I need to fit the DIYMA? I am looking at purchasing something along the lines of this box:

New Split Single Woofer Sub Box 12" Car Sealed SUV 12F - eBay (item 250403463829 end time Apr-14-09 18:35:05 PDT)


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

biggie2218 said:


> How much depth do I need to fit the DIYMA? I am looking at purchasing something along the lines of this box:
> 
> New Split Single Woofer Sub Box 12" Car Sealed SUV 12F - eBay (item 250403463829 end time Apr-14-09 18:35:05 PDT)



Page 1

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...yma-12-sub-clearance-until-supplies-last.html


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## biggie2218 (Apr 13, 2009)

Well 16 cm converted is just under 6.3 inches. With the mounting depth of of this sub box being 6.375, does anyone forsee any issues with such a tight space? How would this affect the SQ?

Thanks


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I think that would be cutting it a little close. This thing has a huge pole vent and I would think it needs to have about .25 to .5" to allow for proper venting.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

biggie2218 said:


> Well 16 cm converted is just under 6.3 inches. With the mounting depth of of this sub box being 6.375, does anyone forsee any issues with such a tight space? How would this affect the SQ?
> 
> Thanks


I wouldn't put it in that box. That doesn't leave enough room behind the sub for the pole vent to function correctly IMHO. I would suggest at least 1/2" if not 3/4" behind the sub for proper venting.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Just make a 3/4" MDF ring and put it in front of the box. That should solve the problem.

Beware that you don't want the sub to contact anything in front of it while under excursion, of course.


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## biggie2218 (Apr 13, 2009)

Thanks for the suggestions!


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## voltage23 (Apr 14, 2009)

I'm seriously considering this sub for my 2003 civic coupe. I don't know very much about car audio, but it seems like everyone is raving about this sub, especially at it's current price! I am, however an experienced woodworker and so will be making my own box. I'd like to keep the box small (seeing as it's going in the trunk of my little civic) but it seems that the mounting depth is really large. Would I be better off running it inverted? If I do, with those heavy magnets cantilevered out, is there any worry about all of the extra torque on the box?

Also, would this amp be a good candidate for this sub? Audiopipe AP15001D 1500W Mono Class D Amp w/Remote Bass Control :: Car Audio Deals
I know that some of you would probably find it a shame to pair such an awesome driver with a cheap amp, but I'm trying to keep my costs down and I'm not going to be entering any competitions or anything. Is there another amp that you would recommend for me?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

voltage23 said:


> I'm seriously considering this sub for my 2003 civic coupe. I don't know very much about car audio, but it seems like everyone is raving about this sub, especially at it's current price! I am, however an experienced woodworker and so will be making my own box. I'd like to keep the box small (seeing as it's going in the trunk of my little civic) but it seems that the mounting depth is really large. Would I be better off running it inverted? If I do, with those heavy magnets cantilevered out, is there any worry about all of the extra torque on the box?
> 
> Also, would this amp be a good candidate for this sub? Audiopipe AP15001D 1500W Mono Class D Amp w/Remote Bass Control :: Car Audio Deals
> I know that some of you would probably find it a shame to pair such an awesome driver with a cheap amp, but I'm trying to keep my costs down and I'm not going to be entering any competitions or anything. Is there another amp that you would recommend for me?


I run the DIYMA R12's inverted in my car and haven't had any problems at all. I use #10 screws paired with T-nuts and am having no problems at all. This is with my daily driver, driving 90 miles per day, for about 6 months.

About the amp... Why not look at a U.S. Amps XT-1600.2? They can be found for pretty cheap on millionbuy, online car stereo, or eBay. I have first hand experience with that amp and the R12. It's a GREAT match IMHO. The XT series of amps from U.S. Amps aren't know for being incredible, but it's a decent amp and worth what they're going for on those websites. Hope that helps some.

Zach


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Just ditch the nasty amp, and go w/ a nice one. For under $200 you can get a LOT. Hell, for near $200, I'm pretty sure you can snag a 4ch or even a 5ch and power your whole system, if you don't have an amp for your front yet.

Check the classifieds, and check millionbuy, as well as eBay of course. 

I'll make a list if you need, but it would help to know what you have.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> Just ditch the nasty amp, and go w/ a nice one. For under $200 you can get a LOT. Hell, for near $200, I'm pretty sure you can snag a 4ch or even a 5ch and power your whole system, if you don't have an amp for your front yet.
> 
> Check the classifieds, and check millionbuy, as well as eBay of course.
> 
> I'll make a list if you need, but it would help to know what you have.


I'm guessing you're talking about the used market with that "$200 for a good 4 or 5 channel amp" part. But I do think that you have a great point with getting a quality amp for under $200. (as long as the used market is being talked about)


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## voltage23 (Apr 14, 2009)

Boostedrex said:


> About the amp... Why not look at a U.S. Amps XT-1600.2? They can be found for pretty cheap on millionbuy, online car stereo, or eBay.


Thanks for the recommendation! I found it on millionbuy: US AMPS XT1600.2 (XT16002) <br>2-Channel 800W XTERMINATOR Series AMPLIFIER
Based on the specs on the USAmps website, it will run 800W @ 4-ohm when it's bridged? That seems like a really good deal $/W. Especially considering it's an A/B rather than a class D. Aren't A/B's usually more expensive?


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## voltage23 (Apr 14, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Hell, for near $200, I'm pretty sure you can snag a 4ch or even a 5ch and power your whole system, if you don't have an amp for your front yet.


All I've got right now is a Pioneer HU: DEH-P3800MP. I'm still on my factory coax's. I'm considering replacing them in the future, but don't have the budget for it right now. I might consider spending $300 on a 5 ch amp for future improvements.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hell I bought a 5ch Massive amp for a build I'm doing for $225 shipped. That's 100X4 + 550X1 (CEA2006 rated), I know you'll find a good deal if you look around.


Good 'ol Kicker ZX 700.5 runs around $219 shipped
Eclipse XA5000, a solid 5ch amp runs $269 shipped, open box may not be perfect of course:
ECLIPSE XA5000 - Amplifier - 5-channel - eBay (item 390023149544 end time May-10-09 01:27:05 PDT)

Here's one of those Massive Audio amps I'm working with:
NEW Massive Audio P950.5 100x4+550x1 POWER EVERYTHING! - eBay (item 140309327967 end time Apr-20-09 18:38:14 PDT)

Here's a used Memphis Belle:
eBay Motors: Memphis Belle MC1300D Car Amplifier (item 250407190551 end time Apr-24-09 13:09:30 PDT)


That's just at a glance, mind you.


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