# Basic Center Console, 1995 F-150



## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Just started a new build, it's a center console sub for a single-cab F-150. Will replace the middle seat, and house a single 15" in 3 cubes sealed. No fancy components, and no major damping, just solid cheap stuff... It's for a customer who wants to explore SQ but is on a relatively tight budget.

Pictures starting tomorrow, with updates as the build and installation progress. I just thought I'd give the heads up that I have a build in the works, and the box itself is about 80% complete. Sorry, no fiberglass or cupholders either, just a (hopefully) attractive carpeted box, and a basic explanation of why I did each thing.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, pictures as promised. I'll probably have more later tonight.

To start with, I pre-assembled a few of the parts so I could get the screw holes perfect before adding glue:










Next I added a bit of glue inside the joints and continued:










You can see that I have the sides of the box set back 7/8". This is because I will be doubling up the sides when I carpet the box. More on that later.

Here's where I screwed up a bit. I got a little carried away with my table saw and cut the top an inch short. Since it's getting carpet instead of paint, it's an easy fix. I decided to splice it underneath instead of wasting all that MDF. Here's a picture of the scab:










More pictures after the break.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Few more pictures and then I'm headed out to the workshop.

As you can tell, it started getting dark so I moved into the shop for the evening.

It only took me about seven years to learn that it's best to caulk the inside of the box before you put that last piece on. It's also a good idea to be sure that the last piece will be easily accessible from the woofer hole. 










Here's where my OCD starts to get the best of me. Since this box is inside the cab, and will often double as an armrest, I don't want people to be able to feel the screw-holes through the carpet:










I've occasionally done finish carpentry in the past, and this phase is kindly referred to as "little putty, little paint, make it look like what it ain't."

Finally, here's a close-up of the section I have to scab together. I'm using clean butt joints with plenty of glue, and a splice underneath, without impinging too much on internal volume, so I'd say this a "correct" solution to the mistake I made:










I was making good progress, but got tired of breathing sawdust. So that was the end of day one. Day two starts now, about 5:00 PM. I'll post progress either tonight or tomorrow. It's a very basic design, hopefully someone can appreciate it for its simplicity.



The sub will be down-fired, so I still need to build a pedestal or gasket so it can mount firmly to the seats. I also need to cut the hole and carpet it, but I'm waiting for my router to arrive in the mail. I'm working on coming up with an amp mounting solution, since the amp is massive. The subwoofer is a single 4 ohm 15" Vibe Black Air II, the amp will be a bridged Kole QX2-1920. Nothing extremely fancy, but I've used the same equipment in other installs and I believe it will get the job done respectably.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Here's today's progress, minimal though it may be. I went to the state fair this morning and only had a couple hours to work on this in the afternoon. I finished off the enclosure itself, but nothing else. That involved glueing and screwing the last 2" piece into place, using a bit more putty, and sanding the putty smooth. I didn't sand obsessively, because as stated earlier, I'm doing carpet not paint.

It will probably take one full shop day before it's ready for installation. I still need to make the side inserts, the pedestal, cut the hole, and carpet the pig. The pedestal will be painted black so it won't draw attention to itself. It will be only 1.5" high and simply serve as a spacer between the box and the chair mounting rails. I designed it so the back of the enclosure could rest on the structural lip these Fords have behind the seats, without requiring a stepped design. The final benefit of this spacer is it will give the front of the sub some unobstructed airspace, and room for excursion. I hope that makes sense, it certainly should once I have pictures.

I'm considering rounding over the corners on the box before carpeting as well, it just depends how easy the rest of the carpentry details are, and how much spare time I have. It's a nice little detail, but it certainly was not included in the bid. 

So here are the updated pics:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, I have work off, so today will most likely be another shop day. I'm working on getting a couple dimensions from my customer, and then I can cut the holes. In the meantime I will work on the side panels and pedestal. Updated pictures should be available within a few hours, or at least by tonight.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I'm in. I've got a 1994 F350 crew cab, and was thinking about doing the same thing with the center seat. I want to do one that stretches from the front, under the dash, all the way to the back seat. I want to put in two subs, and then the front can house a monitor, and then as well two monitors in the headrests. Then I can use the stock location for a flip up or a media player with a dvd changer or something like that. I'm very interested in your build. Box looks good. Can you show pictures of your truck? Sorry, please!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Scooter99, I have my own '89 F-150 that will be getting a build log soon. This is in a customer's '95, and since he lives an hour away, I don't have any pics of his truck yet. Next time I see him I will get some pics. Keep your eye on this build, and watch for the '89 I'll be doing soon. Should give you some ideas, for better or for worse.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Oh yes, I'll be watching. I've got some ideas already for my truck, I wanna see what you come up with and do and compare them with what I've got in my head. This should be pretty exciting! I'm all in!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, lunchtime update. Since it's a cold, rainy day, I decided to work inside. I had to sweep and organize my workshop, and it is now serviceable:










I got a new router the other day, my old Porter Cable was on its way out after many years of faithful service, and I didn't feel like paying to have it fixed. At the very least, it needed new brushes and bearings, and the motor might have needed rewinding. The new one is a Makita, and nothing fancy, but so far it's far superior to a broken PC. 

The only reason I mention that is that buying a new router necessitated fabricating a new circle jig:




























So that brings me to lunchtime. I still haven't heard back from my client, so that may be the limiting factor in today's progress. I also might do a mock-up to get a rough idea of where the hole should be centered, and just run with it. The nature of my design does give me a bit of wiggle room, so I'm probably over-thinking it.

For anyone interested, day one represented six hours of work, day two represented three hours of work, and my minimal efforts today represent another two hours. Look for further updates tonight or tomorrow.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

One more minor update before I eat lunch and get back to work: I've decided that I don't like Freud router bits, at least not the ones with 1/4" shanks. I've noticed that my Freud bits can be a little too snug in the collet compared to all my other bits. It took some WD-40 and a bit of patience to get my bit in, and I'll probably have to disassemble the collet to get it out.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Very nice on the circle jig. I'm going to bet purchasing a router here pretty soon, well maybe. I have a small trim router that has been doing the job quite nicely for me but I worry about it on the larger projects. I'm wondering what you used for the circle jig. Is it just sanded ply? What thickness? Thanks!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Very nice on the circle jig. I'm going to bet purchasing a router here pretty soon, well maybe. I have a small trim router that has been doing the job quite nicely for me but I worry about it on the larger projects. I'm wondering what you used for the circle jig. Is it just sanded ply? What thickness? Thanks!


The circle jig is just a scrap of 1/2" Baltic Birch (9-ply) that I had sitting around. I used a hole saw for the opening where the bit goes, then did a 1/4" round-over on all the edges. I did the round-over simply so the edges won't catch on anything while I'm cutting circles. Since the jig is 1/2" thick, and the base plate of my router is more like 3/16 or 1/4", I had to counter-sink the screw holes pretty far. There was hardly any sanding involved, because BB starts with a pretty smooth face, and it's not like I'm painting this.

Anyway, I'm organizing pictures and I'll have an afternoon update momentarily.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Afternoon update:

I worked another three hours, and made a bit of progress. I had to rip some material down to 30-1/4" with my circular saw, because my table saw only does 30" and smaller rips. Okay, it _can_ do 30-1/2" rips, but it's a bit uncomfortable at that point. So here's my improvised rip fence:










At some point, Makita (my dog, not my router or circular saw) was curious what I was doing in the shed. She looked confused about most of my tools, and clearly didn't recognize her namesakes. Come to think of it, I almost named her Ryobi.










Next, I cut out the side inserts and tested them for fit. The gap around the edges is to allow for the thickness of the carpet. You can't really tell from this picture, but I had to add a 1/4" MDF shim to the back wall of the box, so I wouldn't have to waste as much material:










Next step was to waterproof the side panels:










I did it on my front porch, and didn't mind if I spilled. After all, that clear Tru-Seal is the same stuff I use to seal the porch every spring. I stained each side with a thick coat, and two or three coats on all the edges. The edges tend to soak up a ton of stain.










I plan to waterproof the entire box before carpeting it. Since the side panels are now ready for carpet, I thought I'd get them drying as soon as I could. My reason for waterproofing it is two-fold:

1) The owner may choose to mount a cup-holder to the top of this at some future date. If that is the case, I don't want spilled drinks warping the wood. No, I won't go as far as Scotch-Garding the carpet, since I doubt it holds much moisture.
2) The owner has a lifted truck, and in case he gets over-zealous and takes it for a submarine ride (I can't imagine why anyone would do that... ) he'll appreciate the forethought.

That represents another three hours of work, bringing the project total to 14 hours. Now I'm going to take a break and let the stain dry, there is about a 75% chance I'll get back to this later tonight. If not, my work week doesn't start until Tuesday, so I will have updates by Monday at the latest.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm assuming that the sub is going in the angled piece correct? If so what direction is that going to face? The front or the rear of the cab? Nice work btw!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> I'm assuming that the sub is going in the angled piece correct? If so what direction is that going to face? The front or the rear of the cab? Nice work btw!


Naw, I'm actually going to downfire the subwoofer. I don't think a 15" sub would fit on the angled face. I know it's a bit confusing because I haven't cut the hole yet.

Anyway, here's some further explanation about the shape:
1) It has an angled face on the end nearest the front of the truck. The reason for this is to make sure the box doesn't interfere with shifting, since it's a manual transmission. It's also a cosmetic detail, since the first angle should match the height of the bucket seats.
2) The sub will be downfired so the box can serve as an armrest, and so it won't be quite as obvious to prying eyes.
3) The spacer (or pedestal, as I've been calling it) will be 1.5" thick, and will sit underneath the sub. It is designed to give the front of the sub a little "breathing room", and also to lift the box enough that the back can go past the hump behind the seats. I haven't built any of that part yet.
4) I'm sure there are more details I'm forgetting, I will mention them as I remember them.

I will at least carpet the sides of the box tonight, and the remaining bits will be pushed back a few days. My break (which consisted of installing a deck for a friend) took a bit longer than I expected.


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

Nice job so far... Everybody with a truck should consider the downfire console...
gotta have space wit the upfront base!
see muh sig...


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> It took some WD-40 and a bit of patience to get my bit in, and I'll probably have to disassemble the collet to get it out.


I haven't ever posted this here but it is absolutely one of the
best things you have never used! Once used you will wonder
how you have done without it all these years. For just a few
bucks its woth trying, trust me when I say it will be very well
worth every cent.....

I just did a quick Google, you can find it less I'm sure. Also, 
I've never purchased from this Co. so I cant say how they 
are to do biz with.
MOUSE MILK OIL from Aircraft Spruce

I also just got a new router, have yet to even take it out of
the box. The jig you made is simple and to the point, no need
to pay 40 bucks for the real deal at PartsExp for something not
used every single day.

Nice work on the install!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Evening update:

I started working on the carpeting, and it was slow going. This is different carpet than I usually work with, a little bit thicker. Nice and supple, but it took me a while to get the feel for it. Consequently, I made only minimal progress before deciding to put the rest off until tomorrow. Oh yeah, I decided not to go hiking so I can work on this tomorrow as well!

Anyway, here we go.

Three essential tools for carpeting - stapler, adhesive, and (root) beer:










Recognize me? I'm that scruffy white guy from your worst nightmares. Actually, this is just me gearing up for the worst. Did you realize 3M Super 77 contains 51% volatile organic compounds by weight? Whatever that means...










This picture shows just how much "clear" deck stain changes the color of MDF, even after it dries:










I got the carpet a little lopsided, but this is the side no one will see:










Okay, finally I have one panel carpeted and in place. I'll show you later, but I think it will be a good match for the truck's interior:










And that's when I called it quits. Tomorrow, I have to fabricate the pedestal, cut the holes, and carpet everything else. I might even work on some wiring, since my client is dropping off the truck. Yes, Scooter, I will post pictures of the truck.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> I haven't ever posted this here but it is absolutely one of the
> best things you have never used! Once used you will wonder
> how you have done without it all these years. For just a few
> bucks its woth trying, trust me when I say it will be very well
> ...


Fly, thanks for the tip and the compliments. I may try that Mouse Milk some time. I also want to try PB Blaster, as I've heard good things about it as well.

I've never been able to convince myself that a $40 to $60 jig would be any better or last any longer than one of these. In fact, I've heard reports of the acrylic cracking on the Jasper jig. Normally I'd make the jig at least as wide as the router base, but this was the best piece I had handy. I've never been one to buy a jig when I can simply build one myself.

By the way, what kind of router did you get?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, back to the shop for the day! My client was supposed to be here at 9:00 AM, but is over an hour late. Oh well, I'll work on what I can until he arrives. Expect updates soon!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, so I've worked three hours today, and now I need to regroup. Since I'm posting in real-time, you get to see my mistakes as well as my solutions.

What went wrong?

After test-fitting the box, the shifter will only go into first, third, and fifth gears. Second, fourth, and reverse are all blocked by 1/4". This is despite careful measuring, and dimensions upon which the client and I both agreed. So now, I need to make the box smaller:










I just barely discovered that mistake. I came up with a solution already, I will show you in a few hours. Before I go back outside to fight the dragons, I will give you an update of what I've done so far.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, I'm going to limit this to three photos per post. That way, I won't have posts that take up an entire page. Thus, my afternoon update will be a multi-part update.

Afternoon update, part one.

After practicing for a while, I figured out how to work this carpet better. As I said, it's thicker than the regular charcoal gray, unbacked carpet I'm used to. I supposedly has a thin latex backing, but I only halfway believe it. It's hard to see the difference between the two sides. One side seems a bit shinier, I assume that's the backing.

Anyway, by pinching the corners and then cutting, I was able to get some pretty clean folds:



















I added staples to be 100% sure it won't pull loose:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Afternoon update, part two.

The reason I carpeted the sides fist is they will be less visible, and I knew there would be a learning curve. I forgot to take a picture of both sides finished, but they look just fine. I have the carpet figured out now, so I should be able to carpet the main box pretty easily.

This is me doing a mock-up inside the truck:










X marks the spot:










Ready to cut the tombstone:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Afternoon update, part three.

Here it is, in place for the test fit. As stated, I have to take it out and make it a bit smaller. Fortunately I came up with an easy fix. More on that later:










As requested, here's a picture of the truck. You can tell he just recently did a body lift, and still needs to move the bumpers up:










That's all for now. I'll be chopping down the box, and I'll update when I get to another stopping point. For now, it's back to the grind.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Very well done, so far. Nice work! Can't wait to see more.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Very well done, so far. Nice work! Can't wait to see more.


Well you're in luck. I just came inside after another four hours and have an update pending.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Great!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, evening update. This will be another three part update.

This part is pretty self-explanatory. Here's how I fixed the box. I cut an inch off of the entire end, and put the end piece inside instead:










Sledge hammer slip-fit:










End screwed in, and round-over applied (with lip) to allow room for padding:










The side pieces don't need to be cut down, they will simply go flush with the end of the box now.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Here's a close-up of my round-over. I burned it a little because it's a big bit and I was going slower than usual. This lip will allow for 1/4" of padding to make this more functional as an armrest:










I waterproofed the entire box:










Here's the pedestal (gasket? tombstone?) that I fabricated, wearing flat black paint, and some sawdust:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Can you spot the .22 caliber bullet? The things you find under the seat of an old truck:










I waterproofed the pedestal as well. This is deck stain over flat black paint. I hand rubbed it with a a cloth to kill most of the gloss:










I vacuumed, windexed, and cleaned this area with alcohol. This is the area where the sub will fire, I plan on applying some deadener here:










This three-part update represents four more hours. That brings the project total to 22 hours, my initial goal was to have the box done in 20 hours. The blunder with the shifter interference did cost me a bit of time, or I might have finished it tonight.

My client is leaving the truck here so I can finish the build on Monday. I _think_ I'm out of the woods as far as difficult stuff goes.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well done!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Well done!


Thanks, I thought today went pretty well, especially considering the shifter problem. I'm excited for Monday, I should have some even more visible progress then.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yea looks like a disaster averted! Where is the amp going, or is it already in there?

So I'm assuming the seats are the same for this as is mine. They look that way anyway. How was it taking the center out? I've not even looked into it yet for mine, but is it just a couple bolts or was it more involved then that? Cause the way this looks, what I'm thinking I might do for mine is do a sub chamber in the front of the seat, and then in between the rear seat and front seats. I'm thinking separated chambers obviously, then in the middle I could do an amp on either side of it. Maybe two small mono channel amps sunk into the center area. Then just bolt the whole thing to the metal bracket there in the stock locations, if they're accessible. 

Basically this gives me big Ideas for my truck!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Yea looks like a disaster averted! Where is the amp going, or is it already in there?


*Fingers crossed*

I haven't done another test fit yet, and I won't until Monday. By my measurements, I only needed another 1/4". I took off an entire inch for good measure (no pun intended).

As for the amp, that's a very good question. The thing is a behemoth. It's 26" long including the end caps, 22" without. I hope to fit it behind one of the bucket seats. That may require me to cut some plastic trim with my dremel. If all else fails, I can use one of the smaller amps I have on hand. Considering I've already made room for a 15" sub in a single cab truck, I'd hate to give up the wow factor of this old surfboard:












scooter99 said:


> So I'm assuming the seats are the same for this as is mine. They look that way anyway. How was it taking the center out? I've not even looked into it yet for mine, but is it just a couple bolts or was it more involved then that?


If your center console/middle seat is 17" wide, they are the same. As for removal, that's all there is to it. There are four big bolts holding the entire seat assembly, remove those. Take the three seats out as a unit, turn them upside down, there are four small bolts holding down the center seat. I undid the nuts and had to pound the studs out with a hammer and a punch.



scooter99 said:


> Cause the way this looks, what I'm thinking I might do for mine is do a sub chamber in the front of the seat, and then in between the rear seat and front seats. I'm thinking separated chambers obviously, then in the middle I could do an amp on either side of it. Maybe two small mono channel amps sunk into the center area. Then just bolt the whole thing to the metal bracket there in the stock locations, if they're accessible.
> 
> Basically this gives me big Ideas for my truck!


All good ideas. Don't do anything too hasty, I'm pretty sure you'll come up with a few more good ideas during this build and my next one.

Another idea to throw into the mix, there is certainly room _inside_ the center seat itself for a small subwoofer box. You'll see what I mean when I post pics of that. There just wasn't enough money in this build to go that direction. What is your back seat like? Yours is a 4-door, so it will be different from my super cab.

Anyway, you'll see when I do my '89 build that there's even room under the seat of a super cab for an amp rack _and_ subwoofer enclosure. At least that's the direction I'm leaning right now.

While I'm at it, here are a few more equipment pics for your enjoyment:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yea I just went out and measured mine. There's 17" between the driver and passenger seats, in the center. Then from the front of the back seat, which is a bench seat btw, to the point where the floor starts to angle up, and the dash angle down, there's about 48" to play with. I have a pair of 12" Rockford Fosgate 12" older subs, I can't think of the name of them at the moment and they're put away, but those are probably what I'm going to use unless I get a wild hair. I was thinking the since I'm going to do a whole box from front to back, I might do the amps in the top of the box, then have a lid on the box that I can lift up to adjust or show or whatever. These are just thoughts. I can't wait to see this done and the other one as well. 

I've got a while till I can even do anything with this truck. I'm working on my civic, that's the bigger project, as far as design and neatness and show type. When that gets done and some money frees up, I'll be working on my truck then. 

Good work! Can't wait to see what happens Monday!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Yes, then you have the same seating arrangement. Considering the seat cushions are soft and flexible, I took poetic license and bumped the width of the box out to 17-3/8". I wanted to be positive that I'd have enough room to cut a hole for the sub, and the double sidewalls were kind of making me nervous.


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## usacimember (Dec 24, 2009)

Looks good!


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

I've really been putting off posting this, I didn't want to 'get in your buisness' or you take offense. Because what your doing though basic in ascetics is rather complicated, both do to location but mostly due to the size of the driver. I'm sure this wasn't your choice because of the difficulty. 

Anyway, I kind of figured when you were building the box that you would have issues with the gear shift. If it comes down to it the front of the box could be molded. I would get some foam blocks and just shape them with a belt sander. Glass that and then invert it or turn it inside out on the front of the box. Here is the issue I foresee and I honestly hope it doesn't come into play. While shifting keep in mind your arm movement and how far your elbow travels during the task of shifting. I only thought of this because very soon I am installing a sequential gear box in my 911 and arm rests play a huge role in the throw of the shifter. 

So, here is an option that may be an easy fix and keep you from having to redo this yet once more. You can cut the shift lever at which point would depend on aesthetics and comfort of where the lever, so your hand falls from the steering wheel to the gear shift in a natural position. Anyway, what I would do or an option may be to have a machine shop take a piece of pipe the dia of the lever, bend in a 'L' to move the lever to the left more towards the wheel. The pipe would slip over the factory one and tack it in place. Take the end that was cut off and slide it inside the piece made and take it also into place. Do so in a way that will add comfort and minimize arm movement from steering wheel to lever. All of the above to also be done in such a way that one bend would move it up towards the dash, the second piece would move it over towards the wheel.. 

My last thought was; and this one is only because I don't know the orientation of the sub in the enclosure. You could mold the trans hump, this would move the entire enclosure down as much as the hump is high. This could give you a HUGE amount of wiggle room. BUT, it would limit the sub to rear firing it off the back of the cab. The plus side is loading it off the wall would yeld really fast response to the sub also making it much less directional. I would think your first and main goal was to fire it backwards. Forgive me if this was stated in earlier post, I also saw another board member ask this. Back in my install / sales days I did this in nearly every truck install we did, if room allowed. You could also gain some air space by extending the enclosure under the seat brackets or behind the seats. This would be a pretty complicated task but could make the box shorter by spreading its foot print.

Disclaimer: I've already taken my very potent nightly meds, so if any of this seems off the wall or has piss poor grammar and spelling blame it in the DOPE! I've just been thinking of this install a good bit and wanted to offer an idea or two, I do hope something helps.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

@Fly, all very good suggestions, thanks for your participation. I won't take offense at anything you say, I promise. If I feel like being offended, I'll check first so see if offense was intended. Fair enough?

First off, those are great ideas. The customer just finished installing a body lift, which moved the shifter downward relative to the cab, so it no longer fits into the factory shift boot. He's going to be cutting it off and welding in another piece soon. I will mention your idea (about bending a pipe) to him if the center console interferes with shifting comfort at all. I just needed to hack off the back of the box so it wouldn't interfere with the actual shifter motion, I think it's good now.

Having driven several Ford trucks just like this one, and having test-driven a few Porsches, I can say that the shifting experience, by no means horrible, is not as blissful in a beefy Ford truck as it is in a Porsche. Consequently, I don't think the owner is thinking as much about shifting comfort as he is about simply being able to shift. In that regard, I believe I've got my bases covered.

Finally, the transmission hump and subwoofer orientation: I'm down-firing the subwoofer, hence the spacer I built which will go under the box. The transmissions on these are big and bulky at the front, but taper off near the back. Consequently, most of the transmission hump presents itself toward the front of the cab, near the firewall and shifter. By the time you get to the back of the cab, there's hardly any transmission hump to speak of. I suppose again this is a major difference between a truck and a sports car, it's feasible to have the body of a truck sit mostly above the transmission, whereas the body of a sports car must be much lower to the ground. Finally, those black metal bars which go perpendicularly across the transmission hump would be a limiting factor, even if I did could mold the box to the shape of the transmission hump. They support the seats, and will also provide structure for mounting the box.

Again, thanks for your participation, please don't hesitate to share your ideas. If I didn't want any collaboration, I wouldn't post here. The worst I can do is disregard your suggestions, or explain why I won't be using them. Good luck with your Porsche build, I'm sorry to hear that your health holds you back so much. Finally, if it doesn't sound too cheesy, may God bless you in your efforts!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> ...what your doing though basic in ascetics is rather complicated, both do to location but mostly due to the size of the driver. I'm sure this wasn't your choice because of the difficulty.


Thank you for acknowledging that! I'm afraid some people will see this and think I was not doing a "stealth" install out of laziness, or lack of skill, having never worked in a similar vehicle themselves. What actually came into play here was the customer told me he didn't have the budget for shallow-mount subwoofers, fiberglass, or baltic birch. That basically killed the idea of a behind-the-seat enclosure, and even if I had gone that route I would still be stuck finding a location for the amplifier. It also killed the idea of an inside-the-seat-cushion enclosure.

I did actually propose the center console idea, and after realizing he was fine with the idea of giving up his middle seat, I decided to fit the largest driver I could. It was either going to be a pair of twelves, or a single fifteen. So in short, I did bring some of this on myself. I believe (and hope) that the aesthetics will turn out to be acceptable.

Oh well, it is what it is. It's been a fun project so far, I believe the box will be the most complex part, and it's nearly done. I hope to have it playing by Monday evening, since the rest of the build is not too invasive. Thanks again for your interest!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Monday, monday!

I'm ready for a full day of installing. I'm going to lay out my plan here so I can stay organized. Here's what's on the docket for today, I'm hoping I can work quickly:

I need to do another test-fit, this time with the actual pedestal, so I can make the final decision on padding vs. no padding. I think the padding will fit, but it's not too late to back out of that idea.

I need to sort out the details of the mounting system for the box. I have a general idea in my head, but I may need to run to the store to get some nuts and bolts.

I need to determine where (and how) the amplifier will fit! I may need to cut out some plastic trim to make room for it, we'll see. I'll need to determine how to mount it as well.

I need to run all the wires for the amplifier.

I need to cut holes in the box for speaker terminals and the subwoofer.

I need to carpet the entire box, and install the side panels.

I need to attach the pedestal to the box.

I need to install the box, and the amp.

I need to install door speakers.

I need to listen to it and tune everything.

It looks like I have my work cut out for me, but I do have 12 hours at my disposal. I'll updated again around lunch-time. On your marks, get set, GO!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

So far everything is a _tight_ fit. I guess it's my own fault for trying to go all-out on a budget system, haha.

Anyway, the shifter works, with only 1/4" to spare. I guess that means the front of the box won't get padding, only the top. I wish I had cut the box down by another 1/2" or so, but what's done is done. He'll be extending the shifter anyway, I'll just suggest he use an "L" bend like Fly mentioned.

Also, the amp is a tight squeeze, I may have to trim down one of the side panels (not the box itself, just the beauty piece) to allow easier bends for the wiring. I will consider a smaller amp if all else fails. I've decided I don't want to trim the plastic if I can avoid it.

Well, I'm off to the hardware store to buy nuts and bolts and such. Expect pictures around lunchtime.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Man with that kind of time at your disposal, I'd skip the pics and lunchtime update, even though I personally would love to see the progress, and just work through and get it done. Pictures are frozen in time. You can always update em later. Just my two cents!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, I did start to get burned out after fighting with that pedestal for four hours. So I'm taking a lunchtime break before diving back in.

Lunchtime update, part one:

Here's a very minor deadening job I did on the chair mounting rail, which seemed a bit too resonant, considering it's immediate vicinity to the subwoofer. I had to borrow a hair drier (er... heat gun?) from my wife to make this FatMat adhere properly. I took extra caution by using aluminum tape to give it a fresh mounting surface, and to seal the seams. The adhesive on FatMat is a little weaker than I would like, but since I had some left over from a previous install, I figured it would do the job.

(Sorry, I'm breaking my 3-picture per post rule so this update will flow better.)


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Lunchtime update, part two:

Lined up the pedestal, drilled holes for bolts, installed with nylon spacers underneath for one final test fit:










Tight to the back. Looks like I could have angled the back slightly for a perfect fit, but it's pretty close:










Here's the view from underneath. The design goal here is that the pedestal be inconspicuous and blend somewhat with the black metal chair rail:










Yes, the shifter still works with the spacer in place!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Lunchtime update, part three:

Removed the chairs in preparation to mount the box:










I'll have to clean up his sloppy wiring from the previous system, and replace that dinky 8-gauge power wire. Man this truck is messy:










Very basic crimp and heat-shrink detail for the new power wire. I used a welding cable crimper:










I threw a second coat of stain on the pedestal for good measure (no pics) and am now heading back outside to finish the last details of the box: hole, carpet, and mounting.

Wish me luck! I have about 7 more hours before it gets dark. This three-part update represents another 4 hours of work, brining the project total to 26 hours.


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Can you spot the .22 caliber bullet? The things you find under the seat of an old truck:


Makes a great extra fuse, if you have those tube style!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Ziggy said:


> Makes a great extra fuse, if you have those tube style!


Yeah, just be sure it's aimed away from you, perhaps toward the passenger. That type of fuse can be problematic if you apply too much current.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's funny! Good work! Progress is nice!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I decided on mine by the way, thus far as I'm sure it'll change when the money rolls around, to do a similar center console build with mine. But with mine being a large cab I'm going to do it a bit different. I'm going to use a pair of 12" subs, on downfiring up front, and the second downfiring in the rear. The center between the two seats will house a center console cubby. Somewhere to throw ****! The back wall will house all the amps. Man 55 + inches long by 22+ inches tall gives a ton of room to play with. This will give me boom, plus room for bigger amps, and still be able to kind of show it off if I do it right. I'm sure it'll change but that's what I'm looking into for now. 

Great work keep it up!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Ten hours later, it's UP AND PLAYING!

I shall call this bedtime update, part one.

I ran a test cut to make sure my circle would be the right size:










Sealed the back panel, and a couple other spots with caulk:










Test-fitting the woofer and pedestal:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Bedtime update, part two:

I ran the 4-gauge wire but forgot to take pictures. Perhaps I'll remember to take pictures next time I see the truck.

I had some 1/4" closed-cell foam just sitting around being useless, so I decided to add some padding to the top. This is held in place with spray adhesive, staples, and aluminum tape:










First side carpeted, side panel attached:










Second side carpeted, side panel attached:


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Bedtime update, part three.

Pedestal attached:










Box attached to chair rail. You can see where I did a messy caulk job to seal up the terminal, it was leaking too much:










Box installed in truck, and yes, that's my truck in the background:










The box carpet looks different in daylight. The color match is not nearly as bad as my flash makes it look, I promise. When I get the chance, I'll take a picture in daylight so you can see what I mean.

You can see the amp behind the seat in the above picture. It's in place, wired and everything, but not secured as well as I would like. I didn't take any pictures of the amp in place yet, but I will say this, it barely fits. No fancy amp rack here, that wasn't in the bid.

I did a quick 5-minute tune, and I will say this, the bass is natural and blends well with the mids. I really couldn't localize the sub at all. This sub digs deep as well, I could hear the low notes on "Grandma's Hands" (Focal Demo Disc 1) very distinctly. With 800 watts RMS on tap, it gets loud too. The customer seemed satisfied. I'm sure there are a few things I will do differently if I build a similar system again, but I haven't thought it through yet.

I'll be tuning the system again some time within a week or two. I'll take more pictures then, and I'll probably shoot a Youtube video as well. Watch this thread for final updates, and I'll also let you know when my other F-series build starts.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Two more notes:

First, yes I installed the door speakers, but it was a very basic install so I didn't take pics of that part. Second, the project total is now 36 hours. I think I only have one more hour of work left before I call it done.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Wow man, it turned out very very well. Nice work!!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> I decided on mine by the way, thus far as I'm sure it'll change when the money rolls around, to do a similar center console build with mine. But with mine being a large cab I'm going to do it a bit different. I'm going to use a pair of 12" subs, on downfiring up front, and the second downfiring in the rear. The center between the two seats will house a center console cubby. Somewhere to throw ****! The back wall will house all the amps. Man 55 + inches long by 22+ inches tall gives a ton of room to play with. This will give me boom, plus room for bigger amps, and still be able to kind of show it off if I do it right. I'm sure it'll change but that's what I'm looking into for now.
> 
> Great work keep it up!


The only suggestion I have regarding this is that you find a way to put the two subs as close together as possible. That way you won't have any phase issues between the two subs. Odds are you're playing low enough that the phase difference would negligible (longer wavelength = less phase difference over a given PLD), but it still is worth considering.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Wow man, it turned out very very well. Nice work!!


Thanks bro. I'm pretty happy with the end result, I only wish I had paid myself more. :laugh:


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Nice work. 

How's shifting with that bad-boy installed?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well I'm not going to go as much sq in the truck as I am my car. I think I want to lean more to shaking the ground with my truck. But I haven't decided final yet on that. I want to make sure that when my family is in the truck, when we go camping etc, that I can tame it a little bit and it not be so teeth rattling. They're not as much into bass as I am, LOL!!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Jaloosk said:


> Nice work.
> 
> How's shifting with that bad-boy installed?


It's manageable, but a bit tight. The angled front makes it a comfortable reach, and the padded top makes it a nice armrest. My only concern is that on bumpy roads (or off-road) the shifter will whack against the box. He'll be extending the shifter soon anyway because of the body lift, so I just told him to put a slight angle in the extension piece to solve that.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Well I'm not going to go as much sq in the truck as I am my car. I think I want to lean more to shaking the ground with my truck. But I haven't decided final yet on that. I want to make sure that when my family is in the truck, when we go camping etc, that I can tame it a little bit and it not be so teeth rattling. They're not as much into bass as I am, LOL!!


Even if you were to aim purely for SPL, it's still a good idea to put the woofers close together like I was suggesting. When they are in phase (not only electrically and mechanically, but due to their physical vicinity), they are consequently louder.

This one you could feel in your chest, even standing about 5' outside the vehicle. It's not the loudest I've done by any means, but certainly the loudest in Dubois, Idaho! At the same time, it was easily tamable. If you do something similar with a pair of 12s or a single 15, you should be fine.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Okay, I still haven't been able to get back with my client to do a final tuning, I guess he's too busy cruising around in the truck now that the system is in! I'll post when I have more info. I just wanted to notify anyone following this thread that I have started another build in a similar truck here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/89437-1989-f-150-xlt-lariat-complete-build.html.

The new build will be stealthier, and it won't proceed at such a break-neck pace. The new one is my vehicle, so I'm doing it on my own time.


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