# Anybody hear any Eclipse 3 way components



## frankc6 (Dec 10, 2009)

I found a good deal on eclipse sc8365 3 way components but can't find any good reviews. One of my tweeters died yesterday, so I'm looking for some new components. The speakers I really like are the ppi 356cs, but they are no longer available, so in my search I came across the eclipse stuff. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Nismos14 had said some great things about them after he installed them in a friends ride, He even mentioned in a thread that he bought himself a set to use.

Hope that helps, I have two sets but they are still in boxes awaiting installation.


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## RyanM923 (May 12, 2007)

I wish they had an 8" version.


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## frankc6 (Dec 10, 2009)

I've never heard any eclilpse speakers so I was hoping for some info on how it sounds especially the tweeter. Anybody else have any info? thanks.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

At 140.00 shipped, just spend some of the money you saved on an EQ and make the tweeter sound however you like.

I can tell you that:

The included X-over gives you a tweeter attenuation switch.

You must have all the speakers connected to the x-over for the speakers to receive a signal.

I was going to run the 6.5" driver active and the 1.6" & 1" drivers passive. Well with just the two hooked up to the x-over, I couldn't get an Ohm reading, I hooked up the 6.5" speaker and I was able to get an Ohm reading (4 BTW)


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## frankc6 (Dec 10, 2009)

I plan on not using the crossovers at all and run full active. For the eq, I already have an audio control EQS hooked up. I was just looking for some feedback on the sound. Have you hooked yours up yet? How did they sound?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

2fnloud said:


> Nismos14 had said some great things about them after he installed them in a friends ride, He even mentioned in a thread that he bought himself a set to use.
> 
> Hope that helps, *I have two sets but they are still in boxes awaiting installation.*


Nope not yet.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> Nope not yet.




Are you just thinking out loud and answering your own question? :laugh:

I installed the 5.25" version of those comps not too long ago. I think they have some promise if you go active and have more control over the speakers. 
I dont remember what the xover points are but I think the mid/tweeter simply is a tweeter and super tweeter. Not that there's anything wrong with it, just wanted to point it out. 
The dome/tweeter is a bit bright for my liking when using the passives. 
They are very compact so, they might be a good option for A-pillar mounting.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

frankc6 said:


> I plan on not using the crossovers at all and run full active. For the eq, I already have an audio control EQS hooked up. I was just looking for some feedback on the sound. * Have you hooked yours up yet? How did they sound?*


^ he was answering this question just above his.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

^^^^^yeah that.

Circa40

If I may ask, what power ranges are you running to each speaker?

Obviously the 6.5 will handle more power but the 1.6 and 1 are the same. I want to go active with mine, and have the equipment to do so.


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## circa40 (Jan 20, 2008)

Austin said:


> ^ he was answering this question just above his.





2fnloud said:


> ^^^^^yeah that.


Oh i see 



> If I may ask, what power ranges are you running to each speaker?


The 5.25" set was powered with a 100w x 2 amp in a passive setup


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## RyanM923 (May 12, 2007)

I remember hearing that the mid/tweet combo is crossed around 1.2khz.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

From the manual:

Wfr and Midrange x-over Freq 1400Hz
Midrange & Tweeter x-over Feq 5kHz

12dB/Octave Hi-pass/6dB/Octave Lo-Pass X-over.

Hope that helps


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## amungal (Mar 29, 2010)

I heard a set of Eclipse 2 way's on a soundboard a few years ago. There were other high end speakers there but the installer was very impressed with these and really wanted me to hear them. I have to say, they sounded really good for a sound board setup.

Hope this helps.


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

2fnloud: any luck on figuring out if you can do an active crossover on the mid-bass while using the supplied crossover for your install. i want to do the same thing and was close to buying the set online until i saw your post about not getting an ohm reading until all 3 speakers were hooked up.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

andoneward said:


> 2fnloud: any luck on figuring out if you can do an active crossover on the mid-bass while using the supplied crossover for your install. i want to do the same thing and was close to buying the set online until i saw your post about not getting an ohm reading until all 3 speakers were hooked up.


I am going to have to say at this point you need all three speakers hooked up.

It MIGHT, and as type it that way because I don not know and would need to check with other more knowledgeable than me.

put a 4 Ohm resistor on the Mid-Bass terminals or a jumper wire.

ANYONE that know if this would work or not please chime in. 

NOTE: I would never try this without talking to say the gurus on Parts Express techtalk forum.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

How ironic...I'm exploring the exact same thing right now. I'm going to be purchasing an ms-8 and really want to be able to keep two channels for rear surround. The only way I can do this is by keeping the mid/tweet as a passive combo.

I just tested mine without the mid bass hooked up and couldn't get reading. I'm going to try again, when i get off work, with a jumper wire to see what the ohm level will be. I really don't want to have to use a resistor. I'm hopeful that the output impedence will be between 2-4 so that I can hook it up to an amp.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

For those that care, without the midbass driver in place the amp will see a .5ohm load. the midbass is actually a 3 ohm speaker giving you total impedence of 3.5

Just spoke with a guy at parts express and he stated that I could wire a resistor in place of the speaker so that the amp will see the correct load. 

Parts express only has a 4ohm resistor but i'm going to give them a try anyway as I think I'll have plenty of juice from my amp to overcome the added resistance.

Time to order the ms-8!


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## frankc6 (Dec 10, 2009)

could you check to see what the ohm reading would be minus just the tweeter. I was gonna run the midbass and midrange off the passive off of one channel and the tweeter off the other channel. Thanks.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Any word on this, I just got a set and from the manual the 6.5's are 4ohm(Re 3ohm) and the mid is 8ohm while tweeter is 4ohm(Re 3.5 ohm). I was thinking about running them active off a 4 channel, also keeping the mids/tweets on the passive.

I was going to test the ohms but seems my DMM will not read ohms correctly 


Anyway everyone runs the tweeter at -3db correct and its still "bright"? In the manual it says that its set a +3db by default although mine shipped at 0db


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I am in the process of installing a set in my 2001 Saturn. I have the driver's side done and from what I can tell they are going to sound nice.

I say that because all the other speakers are stock and my radio is a 1998 Clarion Pro Audio. I am not saying the radio is lack quality but there are 100 watt RMS speakers and the radio is producing 22 watts at best.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

2fnloud said:


> I say that because all the other speakers are stock and my radio is a 1998 Clarion Pro Audio. I am not saying the radio is lack quality but there are 100 watt RMS speakers and the radio is producing 22 watts at best.


 Are you going to put an amp to them currently or is that a later on thing?

I thought these were power hungry, and was worried about my old Memphis CA 150 (75x2 4ohm) pushing them. So thought about getting a new 4 channel and running active but cant keep the mid/tweet/x-over setup so prob going to try 75w and see what the sound like, if its OK then I may just get a 150x2 amp, otherwise prob go active somehow(on a budget)

I'm at least a week away from the install, prob 2.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

frankc6 said:


> could you check to see what the ohm reading would be minus just the tweeter. I was gonna run the midbass and midrange off the passive off of one channel and the tweeter off the other channel. Thanks.



3.5 ohms. Somehow, the crossovers make a .5 ohm load whether you've got just the tweeter, just the mid or neither hooked up. 

I'm going to be running mine semi-active. The mid and tweet will be run off one channel and the mid bass off another. The mid tweet combo come in at .5 ohms. I'm adding a 4 ohm resistor inline to get the impedence in a more favorable range.

Still finishing sound deadening now. Should be a few more weeks til everything is done.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

As I know what I will have left over from my install in my 94 Stealth, I will be. Right now it looks like I will be using an Orion HP-4600 bridged to two channels. (150 watts RMS)

If that doesn't give me the lower end that I am looking for, I may look into putting a 4 Ohm resistor on the cross over, power the mid and tweet of the H/U (those are plenty loud right now) and use the HP-4600 to power just the 6.5 mid-bass.

The Saturn is just a mild install, think ED e3.6 in rear deck IB for bass and call it a day in the Saturn.

My Stealth on the other hand that one I am putting some thought and design into.

The Saturn was my old sound car / toy so I have the interior sound deadened, upgraded 12GA wire in the doors, Big 3 ect.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> For those that care, without the midbass driver in place the amp will see a .5ohm load. the midbass is actually a 3 ohm speaker giving you total impedence of 3.5
> 
> Just spoke with a guy at parts express and he stated that I could wire a resistor in place of the speaker so that the amp will see the correct load.
> 
> ...



That is odd, when I hooked up everything to the X-over without the mid/bass, I had an open circuit, meaning that when I tried to measure the ohm at the x-over's input there was no resistance.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

SpeedEuphoria said:


> Are you going to put an amp to them currently or is that a later on thing?
> 
> I thought these were power hungry, and was worried about my old Memphis CA 150 (75x2 4ohm) pushing them. So thought about getting a new 4 channel and running active but cant keep the mid/tweet/x-over setup so prob going to try 75w and see what the sound like, if its OK then I may just get a 150x2 amp, otherwise prob go active somehow(on a budget)
> 
> I'm at least a week away from the install, prob 2.



I would run them with the Memphis amp and see how you like it. Best outcome, you saved money.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

If you want to run just passive xover on just the mid and tweet (and not the midwoof), you'll have to open up the xover and detach the woofer network from the input.

Without it and no proper load on the woofer network output you'll have a cap between pos and neg with no load on that network. Lots of amps won't like that. Putting a resistor on the midwoof network to simulate a load is dumb imho. You're heating up a resistor for no reason. Just take the woofer network out of the equation.

The pic of the xover on SE isn't good enough to see what needs to be detached (plus it doesn't show the bottom of the board). It should be pretty easy to do though.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I have another set of these that I will be using in my Stealth. When I get a chance, I can post up a hi-re of what ever you want to see.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I can tell you right now if you hook up just the mid and tweet to the X-over and hook it up to an amp nothing is going to play. You need the mid or resistor to finish the circuit.

I know that just putting a resistor there would add heat. I will explore my options on partsexpresses tech talk forum to get opinions or options if it comes down to that.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> I know that just putting a resistor there would add heat. I will explore my options on partsexpresses tech talk forum to get opinions or options if it comes down to that.


I'm pretty sure anyone on TT will offer the same advice as me on detaching the woofer network.. the frequent posters there are a lot more versed on passive xover networks than what I've seen here (no offence intended to anyone.. there are just a lot more in depth discussions on xover design and modelling there). Of course there aren't a lot of active options in the home market. There's the semi-pro behringer active xover (sometimes used in car audio), but not much else.. 

Anyhow.. back on topic: if you post pics of the front and back of the xover board outside of the case it should just be a matter of using mspaint to draw some red X's showing "snip/desolder here and here".


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

That would be awesome because I was wanting to use one amp to power mid/tweet and another to power the mid-bass.

If I wanted to go over the top I could go active with a DXS, but I figged passive or partial active with a DQS would provide a similar sound.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I will get you your pics prolly Monday / Tuesday next week


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Here's some pics of the xover


















hope that helps


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

I'll take another look tomorrow (and draw where to desolder), but it appears that the only component in parallel on the woofer is the big cap. The series stuff is fine to leave in once that is removed. 

Weird thing is it looks as though the woofer is padded down with the 10ohm resistor (I would have though it would be part of an RC filter to help with the rolloff, but it really looks like it's in series not parallel).

Any chance you could take another pic of the top directly from above? From that angle it's hard to tell what component is connected where.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

I thought that about the pics, its kinda crammed in there and hard to get a decent pic. Maybe if i knew what area to focus on??

So your thinking the resistor is taking away from the woofer power, you think they just did it to get 4ohm final load per side?

Would it be worth it to remove the woofer section and the resistor, make a new separate xover for the woofer minus the resistor? Just talking using a 4channel amp but having more control over the woofer from mid(and taking out the resistor). Pretty new at this stuff, I know active would be the best option.

Anyway for me being cheap, I was wanting to do what I have done in the past and use this old 75x2 amp and hook both woofers to one channel and both mid/tweets to the other to get a lower ohm load and more power from the amp. I know its kinda jenky and surely not as nice for SQ. I did it in the past with 2 comp sets on this amp of diff rms values by using the left/right to control power. Only thing being diff this time would be possibly each channel getting a diff ohm load(not sure how bad that is, but think it would be ok since they are individual channels??)


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

Boing

Anybody know?


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

SpeedEuphoria said:


> I thought that about the pics, its kinda crammed in there and hard to get a decent pic. Maybe if i knew what area to focus on??


I can't really see where items are going through the board. I'd like to confirm which holes the 10ohm resistor is going through which holes the smaller inductors are going through (the big one is easy enough to tell) and what holes the two smaller electrolytic caps are going through. Maybe a couple other angled shots? (i.e. one with the board rotated 180degrees, and 90).

Anyhow, I'll post what I think is going on in my next posting.


> So your thinking the resistor is taking away from the woofer power, you think they just did it to get 4ohm final load per side?
> 
> Would it be worth it to remove the woofer section and the resistor, make a new separate xover for the woofer minus the resistor? Just talking using a 4channel amp but having more control over the woofer from mid(and taking out the resistor). Pretty new at this stuff, I know active would be the best option.


IF the resistor is indeed padding down the woofer (in series) then it is being done to level match.. which is weird because that would mean the woofer is really efficient and the dome mid isn't.. it could be that I'm not guessing where that resistor goes through correctly and it is part of a cr filter (aka zobel)..

You could totally remove the entire woofer section and rebuild it to use as a separate xover. Of course that requires figuring out exactly what goes through where.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

I've got my crossovers handy. Is there a particular angle that you'd like to see to be able to see more clearly?


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

OK I attached two pics. Before I said just remove the big cap, but since I can't tell for sure what else is going on removing the big inductor that is in series will make sure there is no path from pos to neg. Right now the capacitor that is in parallel make a nice path from pos to neg.

If you can confirm whether the resistor is the points in question that would be helpful (as would labelling any of the points possible). At this point it appears to just be a simple inductor in series with cap in parallel (2nd order electrical xover) for the woofer low-pass.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

youve got it right concerning the points on the back side of the board. If I remove those two components will the inputs still work?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Am I seeing that correctly that they have the tweeter 180 deg out of phase?


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

I just pulled the trigger on a set of these, I was going to run them active on a Zed Leviathan, but it's crossover only goes up to 4K, and the passive x-over is 5K

I might just run the tweeter on the x-over, looking at the pics, did anyone notice the tweeter polarity is inverted? The positive terminal of the tweet is connected to the negative terminal of the other speakers and input. Or maybe it's supposed to be that way?


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

redsun said:


> youve got it right concerning the points on the back side of the board. If I remove those two components will the inputs still work?


Yep, input will still work, however woofer output will not.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

xr4tic said:


> I just pulled the trigger on a set of these, I was going to run them active on a Zed Leviathan, but it's crossover only goes up to 4K, and the passive x-over is 5K
> 
> I might just run the tweeter on the x-over, looking at the pics, did anyone notice the tweeter polarity is inverted? The positive terminal of the tweet is connected to the negative terminal of the other speakers and input. Or maybe it's supposed to be that way?


Tweeter polarity is most likely reversed due to the slopes between it and the mid. That's not uncommon.

The woofer to mid xover is a lot lower (1200hz iirc), so you could run the mid/tweeter passively like these guys. I'd run the highpass on the tweeter and the lowpass on the mid passively then highpass the mid/tweeter combo actively (i.e. remove the mid highpass). Actively bandpass the woofer and put a sub on the last two channels.

At this point I don't know the mid xover topology. I was just concerned with how to get rid of the woofer circuit so you can run the xover w/o the woofer.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

dubbreak said:


> Tweeter polarity is most likely reversed due to the slopes between it and the mid. That's not uncommon.
> 
> The woofer to mid xover is a lot lower (1200hz iirc), so you could run the mid/tweeter passively like these guys. I'd run the highpass on the tweeter and the lowpass on the mid passively then highpass the mid/tweeter combo actively (i.e. remove the mid highpass). Actively bandpass the woofer and put a sub on the last two channels.
> 
> At this point I don't know the mid xover topology. I was just concerned with how to get rid of the woofer circuit so you can run the xover w/o the woofer.


Man you kick arse. So, when i remove the woofer circuit the remaining spekaers are 4 and 8 ohm. The load presented to the amp if I keep these two together should be 2.66, right?


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

dubbreak said:


> Tweeter polarity is most likely reversed due to the slopes between it and the mid. That's not uncommon.
> 
> The woofer to mid xover is a lot lower (1200hz iirc), so you could run the mid/tweeter passively like these guys. I'd run the highpass on the tweeter and the lowpass on the mid passively then highpass the mid/tweeter combo actively (i.e. remove the mid highpass). Actively bandpass the woofer and put a sub on the last two channels.
> 
> At this point I don't know the mid xover topology. I was just concerned with how to get rid of the woofer circuit so you can run the xover w/o the woofer.


I'll have to re-think my setup. MS-8 going to 2 leviathans, channels 1-4 of each one powering a 3-way front and rear fill, and 5-6 bridged to a sub each.

If I put the mid/tweet on one channel, then I have 2 unused channels. I could bridge the woofer channel, but 600W is probably a bit much for these.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

redsun said:


> Man you kick arse. So, when i remove the woofer circuit the remaining spekaers are 4 and 8 ohm. The load presented to the amp if I keep these two together should be 2.66, right?


In short, no. more like a 4ohm load (maybe more like a 6 depending on the actual impedance functions or the drivers)/

When you have a crossover the impedances don't sum like you are putting subs in parallel. The tweeter probably dips a little below 4ohms somewhere in it's FR (if it is the 4ohm driver), but overall it's probably all above that and averages at least 4ohms if not higher.

If you take a look at the impedance of the 2-way below (the lower curve) the tweeter is a "4-ohm" while the woofer is "8-ohm". The tweeter does dip down to a little bit below 4ohm, but the rest of the impedance is above that. Also you'll notice (though it's zoomed out quite a bit) that the impedance in the rand only the tweeter is covering isn't flat. No drivers have flat impedance (well.. some planars are close).. my point is that driver nominal impedance ratings aren't very meaningful. An impedance curve give a lot more info about a driver and allows you to actually model and design an xover.












The backs of the tweeter and mid actually give the nominal impedance?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

yep. 4 for the tweet and 8 for the mid. I understand that impedence varies with frequency etc. I'm just trying to figure out what the nominal number will be before I hack up these crossover.

Again, thanks a bunch on all of this. I've been out of the game for a while. The site is pretty awesome. Looking forward to learning more as my install progresses.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

xr4tic said:


> I just pulled the trigger on a set of these, I was going to run them active on a Zed Leviathan, but it's crossover only goes up to 4K, and the passive x-over is 5K


I wouldn't be surprised if the tweeter can handle 4k (and they would probably benefit from the steeper slope.. at 24db active they might go down to 3500hz no problem).. but you have an MS8! The highpass on the ms8 goes up to 10kHz!


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

i removed the big inductor and the big cap and replaced them with a jumper wire. Now I have no reading on the input terminals. Any ideas?


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

dubbreak said:


> I wouldn't be surprised if the tweeter can handle 4k (and they would probably benefit from the steeper slope.. at 24db active they might go down to 3500hz no problem).. but you have an MS8! The highpass on the ms8 goes up to 10kHz!


Yes, but the MS-8 doesnt have enough channels to do a 3 way front, sub, and rear fill. My Mid/Tweet will be close to each other, and the woofer lower in the door, so for time alignment, mid/tweet need to be on one channel.

I really wish it was a MS-10

Good point on the 24db x-over, I might just try it at 4k.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

redsun said:


> i removed the big inductor and the big cap and replaced them with a jumper wire. Now I have no reading on the input terminals. Any ideas?


Yeah. Don't use jumper wire. The point is to remove them. If you add jumper wire you are creating a short from input to ground. 

Remove the jumper wires, put the tweeter and mid in place and you should get some kind of realistic dc impedance with a multimeter on the input.


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

redsun said:


> i removed the big inductor and the big cap and replaced them with a jumper wire. Now I have no reading on the input terminals. Any ideas?


You prob didnt need to put a jumper on both of them. Only if the trace was broke. like positive to positive trace, did you put a jumper from positive to negative?



^beat to it


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

BeatsDownLow said:


> You prob didnt need to put a jumper on both of them. Only if the trace was broke. like positive to positive trace, did you put a jumper from positive to negative?
> 
> 
> 
> ^beat to it


NO. You don't want jumpers. Jumpers will create a short circuit.

Minimally the big capacitor needs to be REMOVED. Not removed and jumpered. Just removed, as in taken out and nothing put back.

My suggestion of removing the inductor as well is for safety sake as that will completely sever the woofer xover circuit. It will not affect the mid or tweeter circuit as they are in parallel. If you jumper the removed items it completely negates the point of removing them.


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## dubbreak (May 9, 2008)

I'll draw up a diagram and explain why better tomorrow.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

I removed both of the jumpers and i'm still not getting a reading. I would really appreciate any more info/help that you can provide. I've never attempted anything like this.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

Have you even tried hooking it up to an amp with just the tweet/mid hooked up to see if it works?

I'm not sure if you'd get a reading with an ohmmeter because of the capacitors in series with the input.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

Havent tried hooking it up. I don't even have my amps ordered yet! If you don't mind, would you explain why my meter wont show anything? That kind of blows my mind that no reading would show.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

A capacitor with no charge will have 0 resistance, esentially a short, but as a charge builds up, the resistance will increase to infinity, essentially an open. The bigger the capacitor, the longer it takes.

An ohmmeter will have no problem charging a small capacitor and making it look like an open circuit. Although with all the resistors and inductors in the x-over, they might not let a charge build up.

Do you get a reading with all speakers hooked up?


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

dubbreak said:


> The backs of the tweeter and mid actually give the nominal impedance?





SpeedEuphoria said:


> from the manual the 6.5's are 4ohm(Re 3ohm) and the mid is 8ohm while tweeter is 4ohm(Re 3.5 ohm).


Thanks a ton for the info so far.

The manual also states the x-overs as:
Woofer to mid freq 1400Hz
Mid to Tweeter Freq 5Khz

12db/ Octave Hi-pass
6db/octave Lo-pass Crossover
Butterworth, Optimum "Q" alignment
Tweeter protection circuitry






SpeedEuphoria said:


> Anyway everyone runs the tweeter at -3db correct and its still "bright"? In the manual it says that its set a +3db by default although mine shipped at 0db


any word on this from some one running these?



Any tricks for removing the glue without causing damage to the board?

So the resistor is padding the woofer to "match output" to the mids/tweets. Overall system is spec'd at 88db 1w/1m but I would have thought the woofer to be kinda power hungry, guess not.



xr4tic said:


> Do you get a reading with all speakers hooked up?


Right, that will confirm that the removal worked or your stuck at where you started and must have done something wrong


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

testing...damn I'm good. 

As you can see from the pics, I have removed the inductor and cap as instructed. The readings are from all terminals. Ideas/thoughts??

I also tried installing a jumper on the bass terminals so that (in my feable mind) the circuit would be completed. This did not change the results. Still no reading at either the bass or inputs terminals. I can get a reading if i touch the -input and -woof terminals with the meter though.


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## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

I just bought a set direct from Sonic Electronics for 139.99 shipped. They get here tomorrow and hopefully I'll be able to play with them tomorrow night (Wife works Late). You're not going to get a nominal reading because of the caps in the crossover.


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

redsun said:


> testing...damn I'm good.
> 
> As you can see from the pics, I have removed the inductor and cap as instructed. The readings are from all terminals. Ideas/thoughts??
> 
> I also tried installing a jumper on the bass terminals so that (in my feable mind) the circuit would be completed. This did not change the results. Still no reading at either the bass or inputs terminals. I can get a reading if i touch the -input and -woof terminals with the meter though.


Just curious, but did you de-solder the parts or just cut/rip them out?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

BeatsDownLow said:


> Just curious, but did you de-solder the parts or just cut/rip them out?


Cut them out initially then, removed one of the leads until my soldering iron died.

I was thinking about that this morning...will that make a difference?


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

redsun said:


> Cut them out initially then, removed one of the leads until my soldering iron died.
> 
> I was thinking about that this morning...will that make a difference?


It will if you want to put them back in


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Whats the best way to loosen the glue without hurting anything? Heat? or Force?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

BeatsDownLow said:


> It will if you want to put them back in


Naw, I don't care. I got this set so cheap anyway. $139 buys a nice dinner or a bar tab.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

Just got mine today, attached is the layout.

Going to play around with it a bit.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> View attachment 21469
> 
> testing...damn I'm good.
> 
> ...


The inputohm picture shows the same reading I got with just the m id and tweet hooked up without tearing the parts off the x-over.

With what you done, will the mid and tweet produce sound if you hooked an amp up to the x-over?


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

SpeedEuphoria said:


> Whats the best way to loosen the glue without hurting anything? Heat? or Force?


If by glue you mean the solder, then you need a soldering gun and some desoldering wick. You can get that stuff at radioshack. Check out youtube for how to use it all.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

Someone can double check, but this is the schematic for each section. 

C3 and C5 are the reason why you wont get an ohm reading without the woofer hooked up. When the woofer is hooked up, it puts a load across those 2 caps, preventing them from charging up and creating an open circuit.

I would think it would work when hooked up to an amp though, I'll try later.

I think what I have marked as C? is the thermal protection for the mid/tweet.

*edit* jumpers only affect tweet


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

xr4tic said:


> Just got mine today, attached is the layout.
> 
> Going to play around with it a bit.


Thank you for the diagram - so which of these connections need to be de-soldered in order to use the cross over just for the tweet and mid, or were dubbreak's instructions correct back in post #40 accurate?

I'd really like to run the tweets/mids as one channel and the woofers as a second with my fictional MS-8 (the one I don't have yet but want to get really, really badly)


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

DiveN4Gold said:


> Thank you for the diagram - so which of these connections need to be de-soldered in order to use the cross over just for the tweet and mid, or were dubbreak's instructions correct back in post #40 accurate?
> 
> I'd really like to run the tweets/mids as one channel and the woofers as a second with my fictional MS-8 (the one I don't have yet but want to get really, really badly)


I hope so...too late now if not. Hope xrt4xxx gets it figured out and maybe tests with an amp for us.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

I'm looking at what I did, and it doesn't seem right. If the diagram I wrote is correct, then mid has just a high pass crossover, and no low pass section, which can't be right.

....back to the drawing board.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

BeatsDownLow said:


> If by glue you mean the solder, then you need a soldering gun and some desoldering wick. You can get that stuff at radioshack. Check out youtube for how to use it all.


No glue, as in what I assume to be hot glue from a glue gun.

I have a soldering iron and desoldering wick.

I'm waiting till I get my stuff installed and hooked to see what they sound like on my little 75x2 1st before i jump on a 100x4 amp and mod the xovers

I hope you guys get it figured by then


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

I double and triple checked, and that schematic is right. Eclipse lists the crossover specs as a "12dB/octave high-pass, 6dB/octave low-pass Butterworth Optimum Q crossover filter"

But as far as I can tell, it's 12db/octave low-pass on the woofer, and 12db/octave high pass on the mid/tweet, with no low pass on the mid, so maybe it rolls off naturally? I don't know.

What I marked as C? is indeed a resettable fuse.

The R/L/C in parallel is a parallel notch filter - Parallel Notch Filter Designer / Calculator Help

So everything looks right, and I see no reason why it wouldn't work with just the mid and tweet hooked up. Hopefully I'll have time to test it tomorrow.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

xr4tic said:


> I double and triple checked, and that schematic is right. Eclipse lists the crossover specs as a "12dB/octave high-pass, 6dB/octave low-pass Butterworth Optimum Q crossover filter"
> 
> But as far as I can tell, it's 12db/octave low-pass on the woofer, and 12db/octave high pass on the mid/tweet, with no low pass on the mid, so maybe it rolls off naturally? I don't know.
> 
> ...


I know we all appreciate the work you're doing and sharing on this! I will probably end up getting the MS-8 next week - waiting for a custom box from tccustomz up in Canada that is supposed to ship out today. Got me RE Audio SEX's today, so almost ready to put it all together.

BTW, I installed the Eclipses about a week ago, and they started out very harsh, but they've mellowed out significantly, and I imagine will be ready to rock by the time my sub enclosure gets here. I've mounted the tweets/mids up high and the woofer in the stock door location I could have put the tweet in the sail panel that used to have a Bose 3/4" tweeter, but decided to keep them together with the mids in the mount they came in.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

Okay - so I bit the bullet and purchased the MS-8, should be here on Monday. I'm hoping we get a definitive answer on using the crossovers just for the mids/tweets so I can get the system ready this weekend.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

So I connected the crossover and all 3 speakers to my amp and I get sound.

I removed the woofer, and.....

*drumroll*

I still get sound on the mid and tweet.

I think the best thing to do if you're not going to use the woofer on the crossover, is to remove one connection of the largest inductor (L1 on my pic) Following this thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...rs-not-connected-passive-x-over-=-damage.html


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

Very cool - thank you for testing this out. I don't know enough about the details of electronics to be comfortable doing it myself. Installing a crossover and components, no problem... taking apart a crossover and having a chance in hell of not frying it without some direction... uhhh no.

Thanks again - I'm going to get my Eclipse's ready for the MS-8.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

DiveN4Gold said:


> Very cool - thank you for testing this out. I don't know enough about the details of electronics to be comfortable doing it myself. Installing a crossover and components, no problem... taking apart a crossover and having a chance in hell of not frying it without some direction... uhhh no.
> 
> Thanks again - I'm going to get my Eclipse's ready for the MS-8.


It's pretty simple, just pop the cover off and cut the one wire I have circled on this pic.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Those who are thinking about running these active, what kind of wattage are you thinking to each driver?

200 WRMS to 6.5" Mid-Bass
120 WRMS to 1.5" Mid
75 WRMS to 1" Tweeter


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

I'm planning on running 125w to the mid/tweet combo through the crossover and 125w to the woofer from my Alpine F4 (birth certificated at 125w).Rear components will be run with with another 125w and center channel with 125w from a second Alpine F4... subs will be run with my Alpine M12. All will be controlled by the MS-8.

I haven't made the cut on the crossover yet - I'm wondering if it would be better to desolder it (so that I could put it back at some point if I desired).


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

I am curious out of that 125, what wattage is the individual speaker seeing?


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

DiveN4Gold said:


> I haven't made the cut on the crossover yet - I'm wondering if it would be better to desolder it (so that I could put it back at some point if I desired).


Desolder would be best, but harder, and not everyone has the proper tools for it. Another option would be to put a switch in there, so you could toggle back and forth easily if you wanted.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> I am curious out of that 125, what wattage is the individual speaker seeing?


125, just split at different frequencies.


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

2fnloud said:


> Those who are thinking about running these active, what kind of wattage are you thinking to each driver?
> 
> 200 WRMS to 6.5" Mid-Bass
> 120 WRMS to 1.5" Mid
> 75 WRMS to 1" Tweeter


I was planning on running 150W to the Woofer, and 150W to the Mid/Tweet combo and letting the MS-8 take care of the level matching.

Just because an amp is rated for 150W, doesn't mean it's always pumping out that much, you could always turn the gains down if you were afraid of blowing something.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

xr4tic said:


> Desolder would be best, but harder, and not everyone has the proper tools for it. Another option would be to put a switch in there, so you could toggle back and forth easily if you wanted.


As far as desoldering, I would imagine that you would just flip the unit over and desolder on the other side of the wire you suggested cutting? I've got a pencil soldering iron that I had to buy to solder a damn tiny (at least to my old eyes) jumper on my Bose head unit in order for it to work with my iPad. That said, I'm no soldering expert, but if it's as easy as desoldering the spot on the back and terminating the coil in something non-conductive, I could probably do that.

Oh - got my MS-8 today! UPS man drove up as I was leaving for work... TC Customz gave me a FedEx number for my new sub box, so I'm giddy with anticipation


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Here's the review from Nismo14 I think, its on Sonic:


> Nizzy from Edison, NJ
> 
> I've purchased 4 set's of these and a friend also has after we both installed them in his car and my wife's car. They sound very, very good for their price point. They sound as good to me as a set that costs 3 or 4 times this much. It's near impossible to get a 3-way component set at this price point that sounds this good.
> The midrange and tweeter are very nice. The midrange to some might sound a little bright, easy to correct this - reverse the phase on the midranges. Also the tweeter may also seem this way but that can be averted with attenuating 3 db via the crossover. The set SHINES in the midbass area. The 6.5's in this set will blow you away and leave my buddies car not needing a sub any longer. His doors are very well sealed and deadened as I used a few different products on his doors to ensure excellent response on the low end frequencies. Good deadening and well sealed doors are a must with these speakers. Installation is a breeze. The tweeter is small and the midrange is reasonable small as well, a couple of hole saw's is all you need to install them.


A couple more days and I'll have them hooked up. Still not sure on placement. Going to test a couple locations to see what works best. I have a spot in the sail panels for tweets but not sure if mid/tweet in the A pillar is better as apposed to tweet in the sail and mid in the A pillar or door panel?

So far feeling good about the purchase


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

I should have all my stuff installed by saturday night. I'll post up my thoughts.


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

just took the plunge and ordered a set. I've never heard them but i know for sure that they will not sound worse than my factory speakers. I hope the mid/tweet fit perfectly in my sail panel for minimal modification.

I'm excited!


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

A factory sail with tweet? not happening the mounting cup for the combo mid/tweet pod is 2-7/8" also the cup to mount the mid separate is 2-7/8", while the mid itself measures 2.5"dia.

I was thinking the same thing till I recieved them and, the main other factor is weight!! the mid is heavy for its size, would not trust is with the stock single screw mounting of my stock tweets in the sail.

I plan on testing a couple positions, an could end up putting the tweet in the stock sail with the mid elsewhere


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

You can do what I am planning on.

I will be swapping the tweeter from the SP6900 and using it with my SC8365 and using the SC8365 tweeter with the SP6900 instead.

That will still leave you needing to deal with the mid, but I have a spot in the dash for that.


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

SpeedEuphoria said:


> A factory sail with tweet? not happening the mounting cup for the combo mid/tweet pod is 2-7/8" also the cup to mount the mid separate is 2-7/8", while the mid itself measures 2.5"dia.


thanks for the dimensions. I went and measured my sail panel and it is 5" at the base and 6" tall so it sounds like it will work (note: going in my truck). I will probably have to beef up the connection of the panel to the door frame for the added weight based on your observation since it just snaps in.

Plus, I can order new sail panels online in case I screw it up. 

Trying to keep the whole system set up looking factory as much as possible and excited for them coming in.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Oh your prob good then, but yeah they are heavier then you would think and the mid is bigger then 1.6" seems like it would be.

Making a metal bracket that screws to the door in 2-3 spots should be fine


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Just got them hooked up to my old Memphis 75x2

They sound good!! Good mid bass and plenty of highs .I didnt reverse phase on the mids, just turned the mid on my deck down to -6 which is as low as it goes(bass/mid/treb adjustments). I'm not sure what would be better that or reversing phase??



I got a general placement that will work best for me with less hassle, although I'll prob tinker more with it before finalizing the placement.

My door mirrors vibrate like crazy, the place where it mounts is kinda flimsy which is why I couldnt mount the mid/tweet combo there. I may try to brace it and try that placement.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Thank you for sharing.

I may just rely on my DEQ-P8000 for T/A, a couple channels from my DQS for equalization and 200 watts to the passive x-over and call it a day for my front stage


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

I was trying to DMM my amp and only seeing 14vac. The setup does meter at 4.1-2ohms per side. Which gets me 50watts.

Note sure what the deal is? Or if its ok to DMM this amp like this?

I think I looking at a new 2x150w amp. It seems on this amp the HPF is not adjustable and i have no idea what its set at but it wont make sound through the passives. The only filter adjustment is 50-250hz and appears to only work for LPF.

Since I think I need a HPF for these comps for the woofer, prob just get a new amp with more power

I did bridge my amp @2ohm to see how much these take and they get LOUD!!

Since I cant find any specs on my old Memphis amp, this soundstream ref 300 looks very much like it, other then being reversed and having 2 more lights and another bridge switch on the bottom
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56995&highlight=soundstream


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

xr4tic said:


> It's pretty simple, just pop the cover off and cut the one wire I have circled on this pic.


Have you had any luck with this? I made the cut where you suggested, and removed the woofer leads. Now the mids and tweeters don't play. Any suggestions?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

did you just make the cut or remove the coil all together? I removed the coil and the cap and I get sound out of mine.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

redsun said:


> did you just make the cut or remove the coil all together? I removed the coil and the cap and I get sound out of mine.


I just made the single cut - which capacitor did you remove?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

go to page 3 of this thread post #64. you can see the two items that I removed. The large coil (where the other guy made the cut) and (I think) the largest cap on the board. You should be able to see pretty clearly in that post what I did. I just double checked to be absolutely sure that I've got sound and i do. Actually, it sounds freakin' awesome!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> go to page 3 of this thread post #64. you can see the two items that I removed. The large coil (where the other guy made the cut) and (I think) the largest cap on the board. You should be able to see pretty clearly in that post what I did. I just double checked to be absolutely sure that I've got sound and i do. Actually, it sounds freakin' awesome!


What wattage do you have driving the mid / tweet combo?


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

got a soundstream rub5.800. Think its around 85 watts @ 4ohm. Got 85 to the woof and 85 to the mid/tweet combo. It'll chase me out of the truck. These little eclipse speakers really have great bang for the buck. My ms-8 doesn't hurt either.


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

I came across a good deal on a used HD600/4 and picked it up. I did not know what I would be driving with it when I got it but it'll be driving these speakers. Might be a little overkill for now but allows for expansion in the future.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> got a soundstream rub5.800. Think its around 85 watts @ 4ohm. Got 85 to the woof and 85 to the mid/tweet combo. It'll chase me out of the truck. These little eclipse speakers really have great bang for the buck. My ms-8 doesn't hurt either.


WOW 85 watts has them getting that loud in a truck cab, maybe 200 is going to be overkill. Well I can at least I can enjoy the headroom and comfort that I am not pushing the amplifier too hard.


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> got a soundstream rub5.800. Think its around 85 watts @ 4ohm. Got 85 to the woof and 85 to the mid/tweet combo. It'll chase me out of the truck. These little eclipse speakers really have great bang for the buck. My ms-8 doesn't hurt either.



From what I can find the Rub 5.800 is 4x70 and 1x115. I might even run my Orion HP-4600 two channels to the mid /tweet and two to the mid-woofer I would be at 60x4 and I can't imagine it being that much less than what you are experiencing....may just have to play before making a final decision.

Thank you for your insight.


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

That sounds right. Couldn't remember off the top of my head and the manual had already been buried away in the attic. I've been really pleased with them.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

So - I hooked the speakers up to my home system and I am getting sound out of my speakers after removing the coil and the cap. But I'm not getting any in my car. I set the fronts up as a 2-way with my MS-8 and the woofers are working fine, but I am getting nothing out of the mids/tweets. I suppose I'll have to break everything down this weekend to figure it out.

Was hoping I'd be good to go once everything was installed. 

Let the troubleshooting begin! haha What would be the fun if everything went perfectly smoothly?


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

Makes me wonder if just cutting the one coil lead would of worked instead of removing the cap.


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## DiveN4Gold (Sep 3, 2010)

2fnloud said:


> Makes me wonder if just cutting the one coil lead would of worked instead of removing the cap.


It very well may have as I didn't test it with my home amplifier until AFTER I had removed the cap and coil.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

2fnloud said:


> Makes me wonder if just cutting the one coil lead would of worked instead of removing the cap.


I'll try it and let you know, just got a new 80x4 amp that has a good enough x-over to run the woofer active.


BTW I've heard the Rubicon amps dont quite do rated(you find it if you search here) so he's prob getting 60x4 also


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

I don't know either. I will say that with the Logic 7 turned on the center channel is really the star of the show. Therefore, I replaced the little jbl 5 1/4 that I had with an Image Dynamics XS57 component set. This only further reinforced the fact that the center channel MUST be amplified imho. This lead me to order a leviathan. Should have the zed hear by the end of next week.

I'm also getting rid of the eclipse mid in favor of a cdt es-03. The little eclipse mid sounded good but it's inability to go lower than 1200 hz has been bugging me. The cdt driver is good to under 200, so I think that's where it will get crossed. 

I'm also replacing the eclipse crossovers with a cdt set. I think by the time its all said and done, the eclipse tweet will get the axe in favor of some ID tweets to tone match the center channel. I'll move the eclipse tweets to the rear at ear level as has been recommended with the ms8.

I started the project thinking I'd drop about $500 bucks and get some nice sound. I'm about the eclipse the 2k mark pretty soon!!


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

you myfriend have the sickness:freak:

I found myself buying 2 amps this week and looking to buy 2-4 more 12's


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## redsun (Sep 2, 2010)

I really thought I was past all of this. Im 31 and spending money on stuff that I would have never fathomed a few years ago. I bought a new truck a few months ago, and the factory system absolutely sucked. Thought to myself, new door speakers maybe a little 4 channel. That quickly turned into, man I could totally get a three way setup in this thing easy! Then learned about the ms8 and I was toast....oh well. I'm having fun!


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

redsun said:


> I really thought I was past all of this. Im 31 and spending money on stuff that I would have never fathomed a few years ago. I bought a new truck a few months ago, and the factory system absolutely sucked. Thought to myself, new door speakers maybe a little 4 channel. That quickly turned into, man I could totally get a three way setup in this thing easy! Then learned about the ms8 and I was toast....oh well. I'm having fun!


There are more harmful addictio....hobbies that we could be involved with.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

made the cut today and the mid/highs work still 

dont have time to hook the woofers back up to see how it sounds b/c I have to go to work


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## 2fnloud (Sep 30, 2007)

SpeedEuphoria said:


> made the cut today and the mid/highs work still
> 
> dont have time to hook the woofers back up to see how it sounds b/c I have to go to work


To make sure that I understand correctly, all you did was cut one of the leads of the coil. You didn't remove the cap, correct?


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

yup just cut 1 lead

got the woofers hooked to separate channels sounds better but cant really play with it since the neighbors are close


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

I got my speakers from the mail a couple weeks ago. But, re-tiling my kitchen and dining room is taking priority right now with my time. They are definitely more beefy than I thought.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

got another question for you guru's

how would you go about removing the high pass on the mid??

basically so I could control that externally to lower it a bit. May even swap the mid for a 3" fullrange


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

Easy, remove the mid from this crossover, and hook it up to another one.

It should be noted the mid in this set does not operate with a bandpass crossover, it's high-pass only. You could build another high-pass crossover, or go active, easier than modifying this crossover.


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## SpeedEuphoria (Sep 15, 2010)

Right but with a 4channel amp only keeping the mid/tweet on same channel

can I just run a new mid(will be a fullrange/wideband) in parellel with the tweet still on the passive?


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

Possibly, the way this crossover is setup, it's essentially 3 speakers with crossovers in a parallel setup.

One issue I can see would be level matching the tweet and a different midrange, if they're on the same channel, you can't just turn one speaker down, although there are a couple different settings for adjusting the tweeter level.


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## Bndrulez (Feb 3, 2008)

How have you all set these up? How do they do off axis? Looking to upgrade the Focal coaxs in my girls Explorer for cheaps.


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## Bndrulez (Feb 3, 2008)

Bump it up


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## Oldbass38 (Jun 21, 2008)

Unfortunately, I found out about these AFTER sonic sold out...However, today I found a guy on CACO selling a brand new set....I paid $175 shipped and still believe I got a good deal. I'll be hooking them up to a Sundown 100.4. My HU is a Kenwood X994. I'll also be deadening my doors. I needed something to keep up with these 

Left side:










Right side: 










Test fit in the trunk:










Port peeking into the car (It now has a nice fiberglass piece that looks nicer..I need to get a picture of it!):










AMPS:


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

I just got a set of these, do you think running 150wrms from a zed leviathan are overkill for the mid/tweet combo?


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## Oldbass38 (Jun 21, 2008)

m0sdef said:


> I just got a set of these, do you think running 150wrms from a zed leviathan are overkill for the mid/tweet combo?


I'm curious, where did you find your set at? I had a HARD time finding the set I just bought!

I'll leave asnwering your question up to the people who have used these


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

I picked up a set from a member who had purchased several when they were on clearance with Sonic. Put up a want ad, see what happens.


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Well I wouldn't say just got them, I actually got them from sonicelectronix before they sold out. Just didn't get them installed until recently


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## Oldbass38 (Jun 21, 2008)

m0sdef said:


> Well I wouldn't say just got them, I actually got them from sonicelectronix before they sold out. Just didn't get them installed until recently


What do you think about them? Mine will be delivered today


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## xr4tic (May 8, 2008)

m0sdef said:


> I just got a set of these, do you think running 150wrms from a zed leviathan are overkill for the mid/tweet combo?


That is what I plan to do. I have two Leviathans and an MS-8, each speaker will get it's own channel, with the subs having a bridged connection. I wont be using the passive xovers.

Just because an amp is rated for 150W, doesn't mean it will be putting out 150W constantly. Plus I think either the mid or tweet is 8 ohms, or maybe both, I dont remember, that will cut down on the wattage too.

I really need to get off my lazy butt and install these, but it's still too cold outside lol.


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Oldbass38 said:


> What do you think about them? Mine will be delivered today


I think they sound good. I'm playing with placement on the tweeter/midrange, but the ms-8 i'm running it with helps too 



xr4tic said:


> That is what I plan to do. I have two Leviathans and an MS-8, each speaker will get it's own channel, with the subs having a bridged connection. I wont be using the passive xovers.
> 
> Just because an amp is rated for 150W, doesn't mean it will be putting out 150W constantly. Plus I think either the mid or tweet is 8 ohms, or maybe both, I dont remember, that will cut down on the wattage too.
> 
> I really need to get off my lazy butt and install these, but it's still too cold outside lol.


That setup sounds like its going to sound really good. My only concern was that I might blow something, but so far so good! haha


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