# 2006 Honda S2000, No subwoofer



## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Hey guys, I installed a system in my 2006 Honda S2000 and thought I'd post the build here. I never did get a subwoofer in, but it was my first SQ system and was done without breaking the bank. The lack of low end was an issue, but I dealt with it since I had a hard time with the idea of having a heavy subwoofer in the trunk on track days. This is a pretty long and picture-intensive log, so be warned. 

Here's what I did:

Headunit: Pioneer / Premier DEH-P800PRS (previously installed)
Speakers: Pioneer / Premier TS-C720PRS 6.5" component set, no rear stage
Amp: Sundown SAX-100.4D (Class A/B), will be running full active
Sub: It never happened--I had to sell the car first 










Wiring and install parts: 
JL Audio 4 gauge amp kit
JL audio battery terminal
Monster's 302 series speaker wire-1x50' and 1x25'
Monster's 402 series RCA's--2x (got a deal)
Dynamat door kit

Also a bit of MDF, a few tools, and a few other helpful odds and ends from the hardware store that aren't shown.










Why those speakers?
This was my first SQ oriented build, so I relied pretty heavily on reviews from DIYMA (and a few other forum discussions here and there). I was looking seriously at the focals, SEAS components and others from madisound, the PPI set, and I looked casually at several others. Morels are one I probably should have spent more time on. 

I heard the pioneers in person on a sound board and was impressed. I bought them based on that fact--I liked the sound--and the reportedly great midbass. For their class, people here seemed to love these woofers. The tweeters were reportedly just ok, and on the included crossovers some people don't like the sound much. The crossovers are at 2kHz, but most people liked the set crossed at 3kHz better. I ran full active with 4x100W RMS, and most everyone said that doing that gets around all the big issues with the PRS set and lets the woofer really shine. I figured if I hated the tweeter, I could chuck it and buy a new pair from madisound or skulk around on the DIYMA classifieds until something pops up. 

Why JL wiring? I just wanted to use marine grade wiring (tinned copper) to avoid any future corrosion issues. JL uses it, and it was readily available, so I spent a little extra to get their kit.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Install Day 1: Amplifier wiring
RCA's installed
Remote wire run
Ground wire run
Power wire -- not yet. Trying to figure out where / how is the best way to run it through the driver's side.

I'll be putting the amp on top of the spare tools. I'll build a nice rack for it later, but this weekend I hope to get sound and not have to redo any of the work. At least until I get a subwoofer and need to run another RCA cable...

First I needed to get to the headunit to install the RCAs and connect the remote wire. I ran these down the passenger side. I started by popping up the 6 or so clips that hold the top of the center console down. 










I canted the center console piece back so that it was as far from the radio door as was easy. There are wires connected up, so it can only go so far before you have to do more work. Also, I don't want to remove and re-loctite my shift knob. 










Next, I pulled back on the radio door to get it off. This was a PITA the first time, but it was pretty quick and easy subsequently. 










Here's the side view of that door so you can see where the clips are. It's symmetric.










Then I pulled the radio and connected up the RCA's and remote wire. Here's the rat's nest:


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Next, the part I dreaded. Getting it all the way back. I tried to get all the wires I could out and away or under the head unit. It still took me 5 minutes to get it in. 

From here: 










To here:










Next I routed the RCA's. I went as high as I could in the passenger footwell. I didn't bother with zipties or anything, but I will probably do that later if it doesn't stay put indefinitely. I pulled the right side footwell panel with no trouble--I think it was 1 screw and a pair of clips--and did the same with the S2000 logo trim piece at the door frame. That one was 3 clips. I ran the wire under the carpet as deep in the corner as I could get it. It went quick, and I didn't take any pictures.


Next I had to get behind the seat and into the trunk. The panels were each another bolt or screw or two and a few clips. I took some pictures of it to show where the RCAs went:



















It came out behind the spare tire right here: 










And here's the back of those panels so you can maybe get an idea of where the clips are. It wasn't hard to figure out.










After this I hooked up the ground wire as per an FAQ on S2KI. I used the top of the two bolts shown. It was ok, but not great. This is from the FAQ here: Wiring your S2000's new ICE setup - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

I did run into an issue though. I tried to fit the 4 gauge power wire through the driver's side grommets. It was not going to happen, so I tried to push a snake through the grommets. I couldn't even get that going, although I didn't spend much time working on it. Wow, they pack the grommets tight!

I took a snap of the grommet below the underhood fuse box and master cylinder. This is right at the under the hood corner closest to the driver. Is that one that people suggest you cut open and run wire through? There are several grommets around that area. 










Next I'm hoping to figure this out and then get started on the speakers. I bought a jigsaw and some 3/4" MDF ($5), and I have some spraypaint and epoxy to coat it with if I go the spacer route. I'd like to see though--some people dremel the basket. That sounds faster / easier on the surface, but then I might have to figure out weatherproofing...

Also, I'm really not looking forward to trying to stuff the wires through the door grommets.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

So I got to do a few hours more work... I did about 5 hours the first day and about 4 hours this time. Before this I did probably 30 hours of research, and I've spent probably 10 or so hours shopping for all the stuff, counting online for the components as well as the trips to the hardware store. My experience level with all this is intermediate--I've done about 5-10 installs before this and have a reasonable understanding of what's going on, but I'm a far cry from an expert or somebody who's worked in the field for a fair length of time. 

Still didn't do the amp power wire; today I started with the speakers. Ended up mounting 1 midbass, getting 1/2 the work done on the other, and I found the tweeters a home (A-pillars) and an EASY way to run the wiring--no removal of anything at all. I was going to start dynamat, but I was surprised at how much goop was on the doors. I didn't feel like removing it yet. 

So here are some pictures along with my step by step. Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes. I learned from some past errors, but you always get a bit of conflicting advice and you never really see all the issues until you get into it. Hopefully this provides a bit more insight for others.

First things first.... took off the door panels. This was cake. It seems like access is almost a non-issue in this car--everything is a bolt or two and a few clips that are decent quality. These are the one clip and three bolts from the drivers side door panel. Yes, my floor mat is disgusting. It's snowy and salty here.  I'll have to give the car a good detail after all this...

The hardware:









The panel:









The door:









The stock tweeter and speaker: (tweeter only from behind at this point)

















And the inevitable comparison between my new speaker and the old one:


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

I put the speakers in but didn't wire them at all since I don't have the wiring run. I was jamming out to the roll hoop speakers until I finished it. Audiobooks FTW!










They look pretty good IMO!  Hopefully they sound even better, at least to my untrained ears... This is after all my first SQ oriented install. 

I started on the passenger side midbass but only got about halfway through the dremeling before the battery was finished. I'll have to finish it up after work another day.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

I needed to run the wire through the grommet. I had a "fishing" wire or coil, I forget what exactly they called it. I got it at Ace for about 20 bucks. Money well spent. I also got wire lube. 6 bucks for a huge thing of it, like a liter or so. I used very very little, but it was also well worth the money. 

After taking off the panel on the passenger side, I had this big ugly piece of foam in the way. I pulled it out. 









Here's the "fishing" coil going in the door. There is a sharp metal piece in there that you can cut your hand on, so be a little cautious until you find it. I could feel a rubber grommet and put the end of the coil into it, then pushed. I had to reroute it wherever it hit sheet metal, and (I couldn't get good pictures of the other end) then I felt it pushing on the rubber grommet that was behind the foam chunk I removed. It's easy to feel since the coil is pretty stiff metal. 










Once I felt where it was, I managed to take a box cutter blade between my pointer and index fingers and slice the rubber. I had slight worries about getting cut, but no harm no foul I guess. OSHA wasn't in the garage to stop me. The coil then penetrated through. I lined up the coil with the wire and put electrical tape around it, then wire lube dribbled on the tape and up the coil about 4-5 inches ahead. (I took a picture of the lube on the drivers side; it's ahead a few photos.) 










With everything lubed, I just pulled on the coil. Not even hard. It just came right out like I hoped. Wonderful. 










At this point, my wife got home. Her day had been pretty miserable, so I slapped the speaker in the door without wiring it and called it a night.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Next I tried to use a jigsaw-cut-to-shape 3/4" MDF spacer with a follow-on spraypaint and/or epoxy coating to keep the wood from swelling. I'm terrible at that, but it worked ok anyways.

I decided to wire the other woofer, pull both speakers, and clip the door panels into place (but not bolt them). 

I noticed that many many wires run down the drivers' side:










I thought the panel was a bit of a pain to get off--a clip wanted to bend its head instead of come out. The fuse box area was really a mess of wires. I had another foam block to pull, and it was buried in a rats nest. 









I ended up unclipping one clip and snapping another by accident, which left me enough room to work the foam piece out. 










Now I did the same thing as last time--slipped the coil through and cut the grommet. 










Here's a picture of the amount of lube I applied. It slipped through effortlessly.










I trimmed the wires and slapped the door panels into place. That was enough for the night.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Saturday I got in another 5-6 hours. I finished wiring the amp, the RCAs are run, and 2 of the 4 speaker wires are run with the car apart awaiting the other pair tomorrow. For power wire, I used the grommet under the battery as had been suggested. I ended up taking the battery cable through the center console, leaving the RCAs on the passenger side, and running the driver and passengeer speaker wires on the driver and passenger side respectively. 

First, I decided to start with the battery cable. 

Pulled the battery. I left the (+) terminal disconnected until the battery cable was fused and settled in. 










Located the grommet


















Ran the snake through the grommet. It comes out in the pasenger side up pretty high where above the passenger's toes. I felt the snake hitting electrical tape, very carefully slit the tape with box cutters, and then I could pull the head of it out. 










I lined up the power wire with the snake, taped it up thoroughly and over a length of several inches on each end, and then I applied a bit of wire lube. 


















A steady pull was all it took, then I connected it to the battery terminal. I did a test fit (after I verified the other end of the wire was nowhere near ground), and then I disconnected the terminal and kept on going.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Now by this point I had figured I want to try running the battery cable up the center console, so I needed to pull the passenger center console tray and the plastic piece at the passenger's left knee area. 

You have to push the center of this pin in before it will come out. There is one on each side and a screw deep in the center, then this all pulls down and back into your lap. If you haven't done the top down rolling mod, this is a great time to think about it, as it's just a matter of clipping a wire to defeat the vehicle speed sensor. 


















Now I took off the panel at the passenger's left knee area. I took the screw out and pulled at the right side of it. I broke the clip on the right regardless... But with the 06+, that dash thing in front of the passenger keeps it in place anyways. I used the snake to pull the cable through a bit of carpet and felt clever. It saved me unclipping several hard (read: likely to be broken by me) clips. 










Next I pulled the clips to lift up the center console area surrounding the shifter. I also pulled the radio and switched it to 3-way network mode, which is something specific to my head unit. I made sure the power cable was isolated, then turned on the power and checked the radio before disconnecting and moving on. I then routed the power cable under the radio through a hole. I managed to, through a bit of blind luck and careful rotation of the wire to control its curvature, get it to move back to right where the shifter is. The shifter has a foam surround that I pulled back when doing this. 


















I put the shifter's foam surround back into place, then I routed the wire a bit further back through holes in the console area. I was careful to consider the pockets in the center console and made sure not to introduce interference. I decided somebody at Honda likes custom stereos, because I found a pair of white wire clips that were perfectly sized for my 4 AWG wire.  Sorry, no pic of the clips. You'll see them if you have a MY06-07, maybe you'll get lucky with other years.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

To finish up the power wire, I wanted to put it under the center console. I unbolted it and then slid the wire in. If I were to do it again I'd consider going over the drivers side here instead of the passenger side (didn't give it any thought), but it's not enough to spend the 20 minutes to redo IMO. Some particular Honda engineer here did NOT like custom stereos--right behind the secret compartment area is a wire harness running perpendicular to the power wire. It took me about a minute of fidgeting blind to get it out of the way and get the power wire in there.

Also, the image below shows the power wire kind of running down the middle of the area. Later on I found that this struck with the slide-open cupholder and I ended up with the spring coming undone. If you push it to the side like the factory wire I expect this will not be an issue.


















Now I have more wires coming through the trunk 










Next I cut the end of the battery cable, added the fuse, and added the splitter that drops it down to 8 AWG for the last few feet. I've loved this JL amp kit--just feels like quality every step--except the fuse holder. It feels like sorta nice components but poor design. Everything else was great. The sides of the fuse holder were exposed metal, and I'm not planning to mount this on the gas tank--just leave it hanging stuffed in there somewhere is what I'm thinking for now--so I covered the sides with electrical tape like you see in the picture. I feel safer now.










I slit the carpet and then slid the RCAs through. 










I then repeated for the other wires. I also cut the edge of the carpet off to let them fit better--the carpet had some J-shaped bends in the edge to interface with other carpet, and it makes big lumps when wires run under the edge. So I cut it out in a few places. 










Finally, I connected the amp to power, ground, remote, and RCAs. 










I don't know which RCA is which, nor do I care at this point. I'll figure it out through testing at low volumes with double crossovers. By this, I mean if I use a woofer for a test, I'll have a LPF on the amp on that channel in addition to the HU's crossovers, so if I hook up the tweeter channel RCA I'll get a signal that's attenuated to nothing, and then when I switch I'll have midbass. It seemed easier than keeping track of the RCAs, especially when the tape piece I was using to track them fell off early on in the install.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Next item -- finish the speaker wire, then all the wiring is done. I only had a 25' speaker wire on the passenger side, so instead of wiring that one I opened up the drivers side to use the 50' wire. I thought 50' / 3 = about 16.5' per wire, while 25' might not even give me 2 long enough wires. I base this on a rough measurement of the speaker wire. When I gave myself a bit of extra room for error, I had about 12' left on the 25' wire. I felt more comfortable using the longer one, so I kept that 12' as scrap.

So I popped the door panel off. Remember I've left the bolts out, so this took about a second flat. I actually didn't do anything in the door panel since I had already slipped the wire through, but I pulled the tweeter mount off and brought it in the house, and I did that for the other side too. I'll need it in fabricating the tweeter's new home. 










I stuffed the wire in pretty deep. It's several inches under the wiring that runs the drivers side and parallel to lots of metal. The factory wiring sits atop some metal, so I feel safe--that I won't get tons of noise--in that area. 

Then I took off the panels behind the drivers seat. They were almost the same as the ones on the passenger seat, except the bolt covers look like hooks. No idea what Honda though we'd use these for.










Here it is with the panel off:










I tucked the wire just the same as on the passenger side.










I couldn't figure out where to push the wire through into the trunk, so I put my light in the trunk and went toward the light with the wire. 










I then slid it in the trunk carpet and ran it to the amp terminal area. I'll connect the woofer speaker wires before the tweeter speaker wires so I keep track of which is which.

The wires were done using the exact same procedure as before, and they again slipped through without any drama at all. So 2 x 12AWG 2 conductor wires fit through the grommets without much trouble if you use a snake and some lube. I still need to finish and bolt back the door panels and configure the wiring in the trunk, but the cabin is no longer a mess. 

I positioned the tweeter wires where the factory tweeter wires end. I'll take pictures when I fabricate and install mounts for it.

I later tested and wired the speakers to the amp itself and then cut off the remote wire to make sure I don't end up sending dead signal through the lines (in case the speaker wires ground out on some odd chance).


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Next I did the tweeter mounts. 

First, I got some aluminum stock from Lowe's. This was aluminum sheet, 1/16" thick, 1" wide, less than $5. Here it is next to the stock tweeter:










I cut off the posts on the stock tweeter. I'll be using the outer mounting posts for this aluminum piece. 










First I cut rough lengths. I didn't measure, but I held it up to the tweeter and made a good guess. The lenghts were fine with that low accuracy.










I knocked off the edges and deburred the corners so I didn't cut myself or anything else on them. 










I then placed these brackets right up to the tweeter and did my best to make dots with a sharpie to locate the points where I needed to drill holes. I drilled holes for #8 fasteners (~0.17 inches IIRC) with a 0.25" bit, so they were a bit big already. I was off by about 1/8" on one of the brackets and had to lengthen the hole, and the other worked as drilled. 










Funny thing... the drivers and passengers side tweeter covers are very differently shaped.










And the angle on the passenger side is pretty steep... I'll have to figure something out here...










Here's the drill and such:










And even on the drivers side I founnd I had a big problem. It won't fit.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

So I took some measurements--how far the aluminum bracket needed to be away from the tweeter mount, how big the tweeter bolts were, etc. etc. I then decided I needed to buy spacers and longer bolts, so off to the hardware store again. 


















Here's what I bought. If anyone is wanting a shopping list, you can send me a PM if you don't see what you need to from the posts. The bolt size was hard to match, so I got it extremely close instead of dead-on. I have no idea what Honda used here; it doesn't appear to be a typical thread. The #8's fit well; they're about 10 thou smaller than the stock bolts, and they have the same number of threads over the length as the stock ones although the spacing is minutely different. I didn't use the 3/4" length bolts I bought, but I think I used everything else. This was all like $12 at Lowe's. 


















From memory--I'll check later: Driver's side: I used 2 x #8 x 1.25" screws with 3/4" spacers. * I should have used 1/2" spacers and shorter bolts.* I'll post when I figure out what works.










From memory--I'll check later: Passenger's side: I used 1 #8 x 1" screw and 1/2" spacer and 1 x 1.5" screw with a 1" spacer. 

I also added a washer to each tweeter, #4 IIRC. I bought these since the 1/4" holes I am drilling are too large for the tweeter's bolts.


















I had a bit of trouble with the drivers side door panel--it scraped as I slid it in. When I slid the panel down onto the window frame, the new tweeter mount was scraping a bulge in the sheet metal above the area where the tweeters sit. I thought it worked just fine, but this morning I noticed the tweeter mount was sticking out of the door panel... I didn't measure, but it looks like I need to reduce the spacing by just under 1/4". The passenger side has tons of clearance due to the different panel design.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Making baskets went ok. I was only within about 1/4" of my outlines--I'm obviously miserable with a jigsaw. I also cracked one of them since I cut it too thin. It is my first time. I sealed the gap with caulk in hopes that it would be more or less sealed for the next week or so, so it's basically in miserable shape and needs to go out of my car soon.

It really sounds great!! (this is my first SQ-oriented build of course) 

The EQ was already on flat, and the first thing I did was turn the loudness off, left the EQ set to flat, and just enjoyed the sound as it's recorded without adding coloring. I am really enjoying the sound of good, clean power! The auto-EQ didn't change a lot with these speakers, while with the OE speakers it was a true transformation. That's a great compliment to the speakers, IMO. I've been listening to the first focal demo disc all morning. I really like the result.

I wished the speakers had a bit more travel as after the auto-eq and such ran, with everything set to flat I run out of bass response before anything else distorts. My LPF is set at -12dB/[email protected] If I want it louder I can change it to 100Hz, but then the music starts to sound a little hollow. Maybe dynamat would have helped, but I never tried it. 

The bass response sounded great, and as long as I wasn't looking for high volume or to beat the block down it's more than enough. Also, the imaging isn't great, but I expected that. I'd probably get a lot back by cutting the OE tweeter housing up so it doesn't block all of the tweeters like it's doing now. 

Not surprisingly, I did have a ground noise to fix. The door panel on the drivers side bulged a bit. Not a good thing, but I left it that way for a while since it wasn't a big enough deal to me to fret about. The passenger side had plenty of clearance.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

Well, after finally getting sick of having the amp wedged between tools to keep it from sliding around, I bolted it down. I was planning to make an MDF sandwich for it and carpet the top, but at Lowe's I felt how heavy the MDF was and decided I would rather not have it in my trunk. Instead I took an easier route and drilled holes in the spare tire piece. I bolted the amp with 4x #8 zinc bolts using nylon washers to keep from scratching the amp. (Zinc was used as it is unlikely to galvanically corrode with aluminum.) The bolts do penetrate through the bottom and are probably scraping up the foam. I don't care much about that, so no big deal there. It accomplishes my goal: I can move the amp out of the way if I have a flat tire and need to use the well. 










Since all I had done was bolted it down, I had some time to spare. I decided to attack two of the other problems I had left unaddressed: The tweeter fitment and coating the MDF spacers. Actually, it was really just one problem I was addressing: I refused to put all the bolts back into the door until, at a minimum, the tweeter fit and the spacers were done so my door panels would fit correctly and I could leave them alone for a few months without thinking twice about it. 

Here are the speakers getting sprayed with black epoxy. They look poor but do their job. Keep in mind I'm an engineer, so I know all the theory on how to do these things, but that doesn't mean I can so much as turn a wrench. 










Next, all I had to do to get the tweeter to fit correctly in the driver's side door was to trim the mount. It was quick and easy. I wish I had realized this earlier. If you follow my install for tweeters, do this first and everything will fit correctly.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

And on the sound, it sounded very good to my virgin ears excepting the fact that I could hear but not feel bass. The addition of a subwoofer really adds a dimension when you feel the sound. My original goal was just to hear music on the freeway, not build a great stereo, and I hate the idea of adding any significant weight to the car. The weight of the amplifier still kind of bothers me, but it sounds so good I'm willing to deal with it. I just kept letting myself improve it more and more... and I really like it.

I really enjoy the speaker set. Here are the cons and pros: 
The speaker set has a nonlinear peak around the 2-5kHz zone and requires additional attenuation when played at high volumes. I have it equalized correctly for moderate volumes but I have to superimpose 1-3dB of attenuation on the frequencies in that region when I turn it up. That is also my crossover point, and swapping tweeters for a better set might be all it takes to fix this. People give mixed reviews on rock music on this set of speakers; IMO that is a large part of why--you must attenuate the guitars a little when you turn it up, but it sounds better without the attenuation when the volume is low. 
The bass response of these 6.5s is the best I've ever heard--though I haven't heard higher end speakers--and they really sound great on vocals. I love listenting to stringed and brass instruments, drums, and anything else with a lot of natural frequencies that can be illuminated. It's wonderful having a good set of quality speakers. Most everything I listen to in everyday life sounds vastly inferior to my car. So while I'm sure there are contenders for a better set, this one is very good, and it's also quite inexpensive. I will probably try the scanspeak revealators or the SEAS speakers at the ~$200/speaker price point if I decide to upgrade, but the full set would cost a little over double what I spent.

Again, to help the sound of these speakers I have an auto-EQ flattening the frequency response (and time alignment). The frequency response is good uncorrected, but it sounds noticeably better after equalization. Some of that is due to compensation for the terrible acoustics of our cars.


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## rslice97 (Jan 9, 2011)

Thank you for the detailed write up! It is a good read. I am in the early stages of a build of my 280z which I will be going subless to save on some weight. I was concerned I would be lacking a bit in the bass but considering the current set up is a pair of 4" coaxials behind my head I don't think I can do worse!


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## mrzapco (May 27, 2011)

wow i didnt know they were thiss small.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

rslice97 said:


> Thank you for the detailed write up! It is a good read. I am in the early stages of a build of my 280z which I will be going subless to save on some weight. I was concerned I would be lacking a bit in the bass but considering the current set up is a pair of 4" coaxials behind my head I don't think I can do worse!


No problem! 

Lol yeah, this system was always weak on bass, but the 6.5's performed admirably--I'm sure they'd put 4" coaxials to shame! I could hear the bass but not really feel it, and when I wanted to play bass-heavy music full range I had to keep the volume low. It wouldn't have been much of an issue, but I didn't want to dynamat (weight) and the car is pretty freaking loud on the freeway, so I had a high noise floor to fight with. 

The head unit's auto-EQ and time alignment made a big difference. Alpine's Imprint system would have done the same thing. 

If you do a build for low weight, I'd consider the JL HD series and other full range class D amps pretty seriously since the Sundown class A/B was rather large and heavy. The Sundown sounded great though, and you have to pay a premium in cash and/or compromised SQ to get equivalent performance out of the smaller footprint. 

For jazz, acoustic, and other music where the clarity and precision are paramount, I thought this little setup really sounded good. An 8" or 10" sub probably would have really rounded this simple system out well.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

mrzapco said:


> wow i didnt know they were thiss small.


The car? Yeah, it's pretty tight. I'm 6'2" and 170 lbs, and I always felt a little too large for the car. I replaced it with a Nissan 370Z, and the car size is a lot more comfortable to me.

The one nice thing about the S2000's size though is, although it's tight, all controls are carefully placed right at your fingertips, so you can do everything (except shift) without taking your hands off the wheel. It fit tight but like a glove.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Any reason you didn't just use some backstrap or plumber's tape for the tweeters? It seems like it would have saved a ton of headaches.


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## ace_s2k (Oct 10, 2009)

quality_sound said:


> Any reason you didn't just use some backstrap or plumber's tape for the tweeters? It seems like it would have saved a ton of headaches.


That would have worked, but the real reason is just that I'm a mechanical engineer, so I like bolts and metal too much. I also planned to leave it for >5 years and know weather will penetrate the door sill now and then, so I was more comfortable about reliability in the long term with it screwed down into place. 

IIRC that only took two short after-work-before-dinner sessions to do, and if I had better foresight it would have only taken one.


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