# 2017 Colorado Crew cab build



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

This thread is simulcast on the Colorado fan forum too

Stock head unit, we'll see if it is any good after some tune time
Processor - Helix V-Eight. This provides me 10 channels of DSP and 75W x 8 power in one unit.
Subwoofer amp - Arc KS 500.1 Mini
Subwoofers - Image Dynamics ID8 pair
Front woofers in the door - Image Dynamics X69
Front dash speakers - Audible Physics AR3-A wide-banders
Front tweeters - Audible Physics AR20

Pulled apart the rear seat area first, man getting those seats out was annoying (looong bolts)

















Back panel pulled









Rear panel raw and clean (simple diluted degreaser is what I use)









Its a truck, so the interior panels can go in the bed during the teardown. I laid down some moving blankets to keep things scratch-free









I'm impressed with the factory carpet quality, including the foam backing









I decided to try a new deadener. I usually use Knu Konceptz Kolossus which is some exceptional stuff. However I was in the mood to try something different so I ordered Reckhorn ABX from Amazon. I would say it competes with Knu Konceptz lower grade stuff, as far as quality, weight, thickness, etc. But so far its been a pleasure to work with. Gloves are smart if you're going to be running your hand over it, as the foil is razor-sharp. 

























I laid a bit of deadener on the plastic rear panel








Rear panel readied, can't mount it yet because the rear side panels tuck in behind it


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I pulled the factory head unit, noticed right away the connectors are different than expected. Looks like there's changes for 2017









I then used a "Euro barrier strip" to connect the speaker outputs to my processor.









Head unit back in. 









Decided to take a break from the head unit, to look at how the doors will get wired. And then I noticed there's a molex in the way. Yep, this door isn't getting a speaker wire upgrade..
















Its just too complicated to work with
















So that went right back together









I pulled the A-pillars and top dash panel, took a look at the factory speakers. They look to be something like a 2" or 2.5" type paper speaker. This isn't really too bad for factory. 








Factory mounting 









The mounting hole is about 2.7" diameter









This is the Audible Physics AR3-A wide-bander. And it will need a bit more space than the factory speaker, unfortunately!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

The speaker diameter is about 2.50"








The factory speaker is about 1.5" deep (including flange)









The AR3-A is about the same depth









The magnet diameter is pretty large, so this will need some work to fit









I had to pull the whole damn dash! It wasn't too bad but there were some pucker moments

















I took a break from the insanity of pulling the entire dash, and decided to run the power wire. I needed something easy to do for a while. Best spot bar-none is the rubber grommet right above the accelerator pedal. 








I'm using 4 gauge Radaflex welding cable. My system plans call for a modest amount of power so 4 gauge should suffice. Radaflex is an absolutely awesome copper cable, and I high recommend using it in audio builds. The cable is sheathed in red techflex








I ran the cable down the driver's side

Next up I built connectors for my front speakers. These are XT60 type. I really like using these for audio builds, and I buy them in bulk.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I realized with the door molex being what it is, I won't be able to run the tweeters in the door sail panel area like I was hoping to. So plan B is to use the pillars. I cut some holes and got to it








I got them pretty even I think. That's always a gamble









The whole damn dash









This is the factory mounting area, marked off for cutting
















I trimmed the whole and then the mounting tabs, and my AR3-A's fit right in









Tomorrow, I'll try to finish up the front dash and pillar area, and we'll see what else gets done.


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## zebolsen (Aug 4, 2016)

Looking great so far

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Nice man! I didn't have to take off the whole dash panel when I cut mine to fit the Hybrid Unity's but I'm sure that makes it a lot easier. I also drilled holes through the sides of the doors to add thicker wiring to my 6x9s. 

Keep up the good work!

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

Looks good!


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

is there enough space in the door molex connectors to drill-out unused pins and pass through your own cables?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

nadams5755 said:


> is there enough space in the door molex connectors to drill-out unused pins and pass through your own cables?


Possibly but I don't want to damage it. I'll just live with the very slight voltage drop. Not perfect but I did the math with the help of bcae1 wiring section, with the I will lose ~2W by using the factory 18 gauge vs. going with 16 gauge. Both are less than 1dB loss compared with no wire, so its inaudible. It would be a bigger deal if I was using a more powerful amp than the V-Eight, though. I'd exceed the wire's acceptable current capacity if I went over ~119W.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Time for an update

Started with the rest of the dash this morning, just cut the other side so my mids would fit









Also had to cut the remaining part of the dash still in the truck, just used a box-cutter and took my time
























Decided to deaden the dash, why not, right?









Dash went back on without a hitch









AR3-A widebanders prepped for installation. 

















I stuffed the inside of the speaker holes with thick radiant barrier, and lined the outside with Ensolite









Mounting was easy, other than needing to use a screwdriver bit in my hand to fasten the screws closest to the windshield. Got some sore fingers but that's it

























I added more Ensolite to make a type of cup up against the speaker and the top dash panel

































Mounted the tweeter in the A-pillar, only one got done so far, but I think it looks pretty good

































Next up, gotta finish the pillars and get the front stage wiring ran to the amp rack-to-be.


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## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

Looks great man! I'll be interested to hear how your good the oem head unit signal is or if you go another route.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

truckguy said:


> Looks great man! I'll be interested to hear how your good the oem head unit signal is or if you go another route.



Thanks man, I think I'll try to measure it with REW before I commit fully to the stock unit.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Minor update for the evening, decided to take a crack at one of the doors while I'm waiting for a tweeter 

First off, the OEM manual for 2017 at least is off on how the truck goes together, or at least my WT model. Not sure about the others, but it pointed to access spots and things I don't have, so that made things tricky. Second, the majority of the plastics in this car have proven to be excellent quality, but these door parts are painted and super easy to scratch, even with the proper plastic panel tools. I always try very hard to leave no evidence I've of work on the panels, but these pieces are showing a bit of scuffing (will show as I go)

This panel must be popped up. All edges scratch even with plastic tools, so I found the best spot to be at the back, by the pad. It WILL sound like you are breaking it, notice the scuffs around the edges, minor little nicks but the tools, even my thinnest plastic popper, had a hard time getting a grip.









That part pries off, and you can see this inside.









So next, this side panel has to come off. This proved very tricky









Side panel came off, had to not only pry, but also carefully nudge each clip out with the pry tool, by pressing inside the metal clip.









The issue I think is the metal clips have a lock feature, which is this little piece of metal that jambs itself and locks against the other panel, right in the middle of the clip on the top, and bottom. This part did not want to come off, but it must to access the bolts holding the door. Again, none of these bolts are shown in the OEM manual.









These two bolts must come out









Next problem, the top of the door panel did not want to release at all. Again in the manual, it just says pull, shows a few clips but ignores the top. Not sure if I was supposed to or not, but I lifted UP and with lots of pressure, released the actual window liner part along with the door panel. It fought hard to stay on









I noted that the factory speaker has indentations from the door panel, around a foam gasket. This means I need to build a replacement baffle that ends up almost exactly as tall as the factory speaker and spacer, and then add my own foam gasket. Sometimes its not clear how tall to build a baffle, this time I know precisely.









Inside the door has a sorry excuse for deadening. Looks like it was literally slapped on, and the e-coat or seal coat or whatever that goes in the door went over that

















Bare metal underneath!

















Because of the bare metal issue, I made sure to cover these spots completely with deadener, which will preserve it. Using the last of my KnuKonceptz Kolossus here, split what I had left in two for the other door when its time. Knu Kolossus is better than the Reckhorn I bought to try, but more expensive and heavy. However if I were doing it all over again, I'd just get more Kolossus and skip the Reckhorn. Its not bad, but its not Kolossus! There is about a sheet and a half inside each door's inner shell, placed strategically. 









The rest of my Reckhorn was used on the outer shell. Despite not being as thick and dead as the Knu, Reckhorn has a thick aluminum foil top so it helps fill holes. I added some indentation as I was covering these holes, because the plastic door panel looks like it sinks in just a bit, so I didn't want a massive clearance problem when the door goes back together









The door panel itself didn't seem very resonant in the tap and knocking tests, and it also has good reinforcement all over, so just tiny dabs of deadener across a couple panels was all I felt it needed.









Now this might need some trimming, but I decided to glue on 1/4" Neoprene I got from an order at foamsbymail. We'll see how it goes, I still need to tidy up some holes and build the baffle and foam around that, but this stuff really feels good so far. 









I added some very thick, robust foam behind the speaker mount area, it is a gym mat type of closed cell PCV/NBR, figured it may help dissipate the rear wave some. 









That's it for now, just a couple hours after work is all I get in the week days.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

I know those feels! Lol.

I bought extra metal clips because once they're pulled off they don't hold like they do when new. It's not a big deal but it's always nice to have extras. 


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

beerdrnkr said:


> I know those feels! Lol.
> 
> I bought extra metal clips because once they're pulled off they don't hold like they do when new. It's not a big deal but it's always nice to have extras.
> 
> ...


I may do that. As good as the interior panels were behaving and coming apart with no damage and no stress, silly me I thought the doors would keep the trend. NOPE!


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> I may do that. As good as the interior panels were behaving and coming apart with no damage and no stress, silly me I thought the doors would keep the trend. NOPE!


Haha, that's what I thought. The good thing is that the rest of the vehicle is pretty simple. The b-pillars are a pain too actually, that's another spot that I found with rattling issues. Other than that the truck is quiet overall.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

beerdrnkr said:


> Haha, that's what I thought. The good thing is that the rest of the vehicle is pretty simple. The b-pillars are a pain too actually, that's another spot that I found with rattling issues. Other than that the truck is quiet overall.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I decided to buy more Kolossus, and before the truck goes back together, hit more plastic panels, double-up on some lightly deadened areas, improve everywhere I dare to reach. Mostly because I never want to get into these doors again! 

My take on the Reckhorn...ain't bad but it ain't Kolossus. It wasn't a waste of money but it wasn't better than any other 80 mil type product. Being on a roll was helpful in some ways but dumb in others. 

I did want to try STFU v2 but I figured I already invested big in foams so a CCF-laden material wouldn't pay off for me. But STFU looks really nice.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I got my replacement tweeters in and installed the driver pillar, so the front dash stage parts are done. Can add a pic or two around a pc later. 

Ran into trouble with the factory positive battery terminal, trying to unscrew the mounting bolt all the way so I could add a ring terminal. Stripped the damn thing. Ordered a mil spec type terminal and will remake the setup from the terminal to the integrated main fuse pack. Just an annoyance. 

Oh and I ordered the Metra 6x9 adapter baffles. I'll see if they are good enough but they were only 10 bucks while doing my other Amazon order.

Now we wait some more

edit: added some pics









And this is the damn battery cable that will need to be replaced. Stupid design, the nut won't fully back off (on mine at least), and it stripped. A mil-spec one will replace this junker.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> I decided to buy more Kolossus, and before the truck goes back together, hit more plastic panels, double-up on some lightly deadened areas, improve everywhere I dare to reach. Mostly because I never want to get into these doors again!
> 
> My take on the Reckhorn...ain't bad but it ain't Kolossus. It wasn't a waste of money but it wasn't better than any other 80 mil type product. Being on a roll was helpful in some ways but dumb in others.
> 
> I did want to try STFU v2 but I figured I already invested big in foams so a CCF-laden material wouldn't pay off for me. But STFU looks really nice.


I've always been partial to Raamat and ensolite myself but that Kolossus deadener looks really good.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

beerdrnkr said:


> I've always been partial to Raamat and ensolite myself but that Kolossus deadener looks really good.


Raam did me wrong, and then good, a few times. I have a couple instances when I ordered BXTII but it had too much asphalt in it, and later down the road had to deal with horrible messes. A new replacement order of BXTII new true-butyl formulation fixed that up. I've learned it is nothing close to Kolossus or SDS tiles. 2STF's epic CLD thread has proof but my own experience mirrors his... BXTII is not competitive with Kolossus or SDS. 

I still routinely order P&S Ensolite from their website though. Nothing beats it in certain situations.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK so Saturday I was down, but Sunday I managed to squeak in a couple hours and I got something done. First thing, my aftermarket battery terminal came in! For anybody following along or gathering ideas, heed this... get a Fastronix Mil-Spec battery terminal. Just get one. It works! You may be able to lop off the factory lug and just crimp/solder on a ring terminal to install it to the replacement battery terminal. If not, just get some 2 gauge battery cable and chop it up and use that, which is what I did. 









I slipped my 4 gauge power wire on one side of the terminal, and the way I positioned it, the factory cover still fits over. Its perfect!


















Covers fit right over, snaps shut like stock.









I mounted my circuit breaker creatively, by using zip ties, right over a factory connector. It is solid there, doesn't wiggle or slide. 










Next up, the driver's door. I added more deadener to the inside of the door shell, about an extra 1/2 sheet of Knu Kolossus. I don't want to get in this door again, so I took no chances. I then lined the outside with peel-and-stick Ensolite.









I added deadener to the Metra adapters. These are pretty nice little units, and even though I was going to make some adapters, these should work equally as well. They have a bit of flex in them but I've got a fix for that coming up









Factory connector with the friction tape unraveled. Driver's door is Blue +, Brown/Blue -









I added my XT60 connector









Connected the ID 6x9









And screwed it in, first putting some Ensolite down as a gasket for the speaker. I had to use a different screw at the bottom right because the Metra plastic stripped a tiny bit on me. A bigger screw size got it done.









To stop the flex in the adapter, I added Kolossus strips around the adapter and the door, which solidified the mount.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Now with the speaker mounted, I set out to install the door panel. First, I had to slice up my Neoprene, because this rod right here has to move freely, to let the truck lock and unlock. Whoops!









These infernal clips at the top of the door that hold the window sash and the door together...they are going to be the death of me! I can't get the door back together with the sash attached to the door, and these clips are extremely hard to get loose.

















It took this to get each one free









I marked the location of each one on the sash, so I can mount this to the door. They keep falling out.









Crisis averted, the dash and these damn clips are back on the door.









Hours pass, but I got the door 100% back together, and I didn't even forget to plug a wire in! OR did I? Well we'll find out in a couple days if I forgot, but I think I got them all.









That was definitely enough for tonight. I cannot stress how dysfunctional of a door panel removal this is compared to a "normal" door. Those sash clips refuse to dismount from the door without pressure on the top of them to release, but you can get to the top side with the door panel installed. SO, unless I missed something, you have to rip the sash off during the uninstall and then reattach the sash during the install, first. And oh, none of this, not a single word, is in the factory service manual for 2017.


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## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

Yeah those little clips can be a real PITA. I typically use a pair of pliers to remove them from the door. If that door is the same as mine, then to put them back on, you put the clips onto the door frame, the put the door card back on, and then slide the rubber window seal back into place.


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## adrianp89 (Oct 14, 2007)

This might be different but it doesn't look that way. A lot of newer Chevy's have those clips across the top. I learned my less the first time I did it. You should be able to pull straight out and it will be smooth sailing.


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## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

Page 8-9 shows how to re-install the door card.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/instructions/ampresearch/75154-01A.pdf


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Tiny update, limited time over the week-days. 

Got my additional box of Knu Kolossus...ahhh that's better! The good stuff!

I began the effort of deadening and rattle-prevention on the pillars, this will be a long process. Stock panel first for observation









I peeled the stock (very good) 3M Thinsulate type batting, will be re-using that in a min. I noticed this spot right here between the two colored plastics...that rattles a lot just in my hands.









I decided to cut strips and install them in between the ribs in the plastic, in reality if I were doing this again, I'd probably go every 3rd one instead of other one in the ribs...in other words I over-did it a tiny bit.









I used the Reckhorn here up top, which allowed me to plaster a big piece and roll it tightly into the crevices between the two different-colored plastic panels. Reckhorn worked better here than Knu in this case. If someone wanted to, I'm sure they could force the Kolossus to smash into the area, just wear gloves working it in!








Not pictured but done, I just flipped the Thinsulate batting back over and used some spray adhesive to get it to stick, no issues. These pillars are dead now

I also doubled my efforts on the floor, and back wall. Kolossus did its job, got the resonant metal sound down much more than Reckhorn did on its own. I added one sheet to the back wall in addition to what I had back there already, and added two sheets to the floor total, including the rear footwells. 









Next up, more interior deadening, hopefully tonight.


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## knifedag007 (Mar 14, 2011)

Nice looking build. Keep it up


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

The truck is mostly back together as of tonight. I started early in the day with the rest of the interior panels

























I then attached the factory front woofer wires with a Euro barrier strip, and ran 16 gauge 4 conductor to that.









And 18 gauge 4 conductor to the rear speaker wires









I then ran all wires (inputs and outputs) through the center console area, after I removed some of it to see the wires make it safely through









I deadened up the front floor pan a little bit on the driver's and passengers

















And then I realized, gee...this thing has a lot of wires! I used wire keepers with the sticky bottoms and zip tie top, all over the floor to keep myself organized and abide by most sound competition regulations (JIC)









Here's what you're looking at, from left to right:

left tweeter 2 conductor 18 ga
left mid 2 conductor 18 ga
left and right door woofer 4 conductor 16 ga
left and right rear door 4 conductor 18 ga
front speaker input 4 conductor 18 ga
rear speaker input 4 conductor 18 ga
right tweeter 2 conductor 18 ga
right mid 2 conductor 18 ga
*Total of 24 wire terminations + power and ground

*I then installed the rear carpet, panels, seats, and pulled all the wires through a central location, driver's side under the rear seat in an existing hole used for the under-seat supporting frame. 









My ground is right behind this spot, using a bolt that was poking out, I think its for one of the underseat frame pieces as well. I ground off the paint underneath it, and bolted this 4 gauge down


















Next up, I'll begin fabricating the amp and sub setup for under the seat.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK so question, should I upfire the ID8's or downfire? Hmmm


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I was bored and restless so I fired up Sketch and made my box (well, virtually.)





































I'll have to amend the design on the fly when I build, but so far it looks quite doable.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

nice design like to see that built


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

If the subs will be corner loaded I'd downfire for sure. However, I've never been a fan of firing up into the back seat. I'll fire subs forward before firing up into a seat. Too bad you can't rearfire them into the firewall. Honestly, if I were you I'd build a .3 cu ft test box for one of them and play around with it to see which way sounds best.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> If the subs will be corner loaded I'd downfire for sure. However, I've never been a fan of firing up into the back seat. I'll fire subs forward before firing up into a seat. Too bad you can't rearfire them into the firewall. Honestly, if I were you I'd build a .3 cu ft test box for one of them and play around with it to see which way sounds best.



Definitely downfiring, after researching.  I've got "a plan" as you can see with the 3d model. Whipped that little guy together late last night, when I had a micro-epiphany let's call it. The whole thing just started coming together (in my head least...we'll see if the rest of me can execute!)


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## Bruteforce650 (Mar 12, 2017)

Sometimes you can put the cloth from a dry Clorox wipe or other thin soft material on the tool to prevent scratches. Can also drape the material over the area you are about to work with the tool.


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## Bruteforce650 (Mar 12, 2017)

Would not fire into the seat. Try to fire toward something more solid, down would be fine.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

So I made my prototype today. I might just keep it as long as it performs, we'll have to see. But I learned a great deal about how a box fits in this truck, like what angles and shapes work. I don't usually take many pics when doing woodwork because of the mess, but here's what I did take, and some thoughts along the way:

I started with a 14 1/4 x 46" board, and made my cuts to make an elevated downfire location. I used 1 1/2" as my spacing, but if I were to do this again or if anyone is following along, I'd run 3/4" as the bottom board, 1/2" as the spacer board, and then 3/4" baffle instead of all 3/4" boards. Reason is though a 1 1/2" spacing works great for the downfire, I ran into clearance issues with the ID8's and I was just barely able to overcome it. Had I went with a 1/2" spacer instead of 3/4" I would have that 1/4" that almost shut me down later. 

















Fast forward some, I made this shape where I had 45 degree corners on the end, to compliment the seat shape above. However, this was a mistake in the end, and I should have started with the box more narrow in the first place. The shape of the seat above requires about a 41 1/2" total length, not the 46 I hoped for. The "lip" inside the top of the seat bottom just doesn't let you get any longer than that. 

















The angle is good, its 24 degrees if I recall. Good shape overall, definitely used as much as the space under the seats would let me, I think.









In order to fit the subs, I had to cut and space out the area above them. 









So as I mentioned, I had to mod the box to get things right. I haven't taken pics of this, it was dark when I quit for the night. But the number is 41 1/2 as I mentioned. I used my saw to cut 2 1/4" off each side, which should work in the end. I might make endcaps but they'd just be for decoration, we'll see.

Progress, though!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I've decided this will be my prototype, from which a more refined, more perfected shape will come. There's too many compromises and "errors" with this design...in short, I can do better if I use this to rebuild a better example.


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## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Really pro job, coming along nicely


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I'd never thought of approaching a down fire box like this. I always designed so that the entire bottom of the box was elevated. I like this idea of just having the sub area up. 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Wow, that's not an easy box to build. Nice job on the prototype so far...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK so I have a new gameplan, but I wanted to show you some pics of my existing "prototype" and what I want to change.

I'm not OCD but I can tell you my "attention to detail meter" is freaking out that the subwoofer downfire hole isn't centered in the box. LOL









This was my downfire opening

















General profile. Not a bad shape, could be perfected.



























So the angle feels right, it looks somewhere between 22 and 23 degrees. I'll keep that. The height (before the lip) is 5 1/2", I'll probably push that to 5 3/4", as that lip doesn't nestle right at the seat. There's about a 1/4" gap even if you push down on the cushion. The lip at the front has a 2" outside length, I'll probably keep that. I'll drop the top vertical from 1 1/8" to 1" even, and that means I'll be 1/8" up taller, requiring a teeny change in final height, assuming I keep the 22-23 degree angle. Should be good. The spacing I'll go for with the downfire will change from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4", using a 1/2" spacer instead of 3/4". 

More fun tomorrow, I grabbed some more wood so I can keep working.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

street.terror said:


> I'd never thought of approaching a down fire box like this. I always designed so that the entire bottom of the box was elevated. I like this idea of just having the sub area up.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


It seems more space-efficient especially considering this is also an amp rack. I can "horn-load" if I do this correctly.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I like space efficient. I'm going to do some playing around with this idea. I could probably loose a good 2-3 inches of over all height doing that. 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

street.terror said:


> I like space efficient. I'm going to do some playing around with this idea. I could probably loose a good 2-3 inches of over all height doing that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Extra air space never hurts in situations like this, too. I'm scrounging for every cubic inch, a typical issue in an under-seat design.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Well today after work I only had a couple hours outside, but man, I got a lot done!

This is the new bottom board, also serving as a downfire spacer. But really, its the amp rack. 45" x 14 1/4"
The downfire area is now centered, yay! This rack will have 7" of space on one side for my Arc 500.1 Mini (passenger side) , and 10" of space on the other side for the Helix processor/amp (driver's side, with all those wires). That leaves a 28" gap for the subwoofer box to go right on top. 









This is the new bottom of the subwoofer box, 26 1/2" x 14 1/4









This is the speaker baffle, I think its 9" x 18 1/2", something like that.









This will be the downfire spacing. Sufficient for an 8" sub.









Through some math and using my prototype as a guide, I semi-quickly whipped up all the boards at 26 1/2", and those angles are 23 degrees









Other than needing to round off some edges, it appears to fit perfectly



























So far, pretty happy. I'll build the sides to seal the box up after I spray the inside with some rubberized deadener/sealant spray. I like using that stuff to guarantee an air-tight box. From there, the enclosure will be done except for course for beautification, and I can focus on the amp rack wiring.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Ok update time, I at least have a box now.

I crafted the side panels, and then ran my router over the edges to smooth things out. I then sprayed the inside with rubberized sound deadener/sealer. Worked great.

























It definitely fits under the seat, but it does take a shove to lock the seat in. This is definitely the most box (height and angle-wise) I think you can fit under here

































The final internal dimensions are about 20% under what I had as goal. I got .58 cubic foot all-in. This puts me at a final box Qtc of just over .806. That's not perfect but it is still acceptable. I consider .8 to be the upper range of a low resonance/ringing box. If I were to do this all over again, I would try to extend the box out at the wings possibly another couple inches each side, but even doing that, I'd still only get something around a .65 cubic foot box. Its just not roomy under there and I wanted room on each side for the amp and processor. I suppose I also lost a bit of space making it two piece, but I think that will be worth it for the amp rack portion. Bottom line, if you are using 3/4" material, don't expect much over .6 to .7 cubic feet of space inside. On the bright side, the box feels extremely sturdy with the shape and thickness of wood, and its pretty light because I used high-count birch ply except for the amp rack.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

fourthmeal said:


> Ok update time, I at least have a box now.
> 
> I crafted the side panels, and then ran my router over the edges to smooth things out. I then sprayed the inside with rubberized sound deadener/sealer. Worked great.
> 
> ...



Man, that looks great! What subs are you gonna run?

_Edit: Never mind I just read the OP..._


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Id8 v.4 d2 pair, should be great. We'll see soon!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK minor update before the big push this weekend, I carpeted the amp rack, installed T-nuts to mount the processor, and burned the holes for those

















I used my router table to cut a notch in the bottom, to let the carpet tuck in without increasing the panel's thickness. And then crown-stapled my way through.









Amp rack ready for the truck









And in the truck


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK update time! The system fires up and makes sound, let's get that out of the way now. The system works, and works well, at least for an initial start.

First, wiring the Helix DSP's inputs, from the stock front and rear outputs. 









Mid-process









Output side of the DSP, wiring up

















Arc sub amp getting wired up along the way









Distribution blocks mount beside the Helix









Time to get the subwoofer enclosure finished up









The subs are dual 2 ohm, so I'm using paralleling the subs and then running the coils in series, for a final 2 ohm load









Ready to go









Installed



















The sub amp side











As viewed from the driver's seat










So on the Helix, I've set up an initial config for the speakers









And this is the input-output config, still fooling around with the best-sounding input but right now, it works well.










So I've done no EQ work so far, but I've been fooling with output volume on each channel here and there, and once I got it sounding right by ear, I decided to measure the system with REW, just for fun. This is the run of sweeps I made (mic position adjusted in a different spot around the head before each sweep) left front side (woofer, mid, tweet) and sub together









This is the distortion profile for the left front + sub. 









This is the left system waterfall


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

This is the right side measurements. Right now, the stock woofer is still in place! I figured it would be fun to see how a stock speaker would work in my heavily modified system. The answer is, not bad but...it will be replaced because there's obvious limitations compared with the monster Image Dynamics X69 on the left side. Still, good results, see:



























And for a direct comparison, here's the left and right (stock right woofer) side by side









I wonder if, because the front mids and tweeters are all replaced with sweet aftermarket ones (Audible Physics AR3 and AR20 if you haven't been keeping track), I wonder if that's the reason the ~400hz and up range is closely matched. That's where I crossed the AR3's over, so hmmm... Well it will get fine-tuned as we go, so I'll learn more later.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

pretty dam nice... looks like your sweeps are at a good starting point.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

toneloc2 said:


> pretty dam nice... looks like your sweeps are at a good starting point.


Thanks! Yeah I was really surprised. It sounds amazing just raw, a huge upgrade over stock. I still need to do the right door which is still stock.

The Audible Physics top end is just phenomenal, too.

I still have a ton of beautification work to do as well. I'm going to build amp and processor cover panels to blend with the subwoofer enclosure.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Glad you're liking the AR3-A and AR20 combo. That's still the set we run in our minivan and have had it in there for over three years now and really haven't felt the need to upgrade. For many who know me, that's an eternity! It works really really well and glad you are finding similar results. Keep up the great work.


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## Tugg! (Sep 3, 2016)

Incredible work man, as always.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

papasin said:


> Glad you're liking the AR3-A and AR20 combo. That's still the set we run in our minivan and have had it in there for over three years now and really haven't felt the need to upgrade. For many who know me, that's an eternity! It works really really well and glad you are finding similar results. Keep up the great work.


They really are amazing. I'm not sure what cross point I should run with, but they seem extremely happy at the 5k-ish on the tweet, with the mid running that to about 400hz. Its almost like I could just take my pick of crossover point, and it wouldn't be a problem. With that little AR20 like it is, it sounds omni-directional all the way close to 20k, just perfect even with off-axis placement. With the mid in the factory dash area, I don't want to cross too high nor too low, but I think this 400-5k range is a good start.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Tugg! said:


> Incredible work man, as always.


Thanks man, this one has been pretty good to me (so far.) I'm pretty doggone happy (again...so far.)


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Nice install Fourthmeal. Hey I noticed that you are only using one input to your sub amp. Is that amp one of those that still puts out the same power off a single input as it would with both inputs filled? I looked at the manual but they don't talk about that, just label input as left and right.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Nice install Fourthmeal. Hey I noticed that you are only using one input to your sub amp. Is that amp one of those that still puts out the same power off a single input as it would with both inputs filled? I looked at the manual but they don't talk about that, just label input as left and right.


I tried it both ways, and I couldn't hear a lot of difference. If the gain is tweaked up a tiny little bit, it seems to equal out. Running one 90 deg Rca looks cleaner in the tight quarters though.


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

fourthmeal said:


> They really are amazing. I'm not sure what cross point I should run with, but they seem extremely happy at the 5k-ish on the tweet, with the mid running that to about 400hz. Its almost like I could just take my pick of crossover point, and it wouldn't be a problem. With that little AR20 like it is, it sounds omni-directional all the way close to 20k, just perfect even with off-axis placement. With the mid in the factory dash area, I don't want to cross too high nor too low, but I think this 400-5k range is a good start.



I've run the AR3-A lower (down to 315 and even 250 with a steep slope)...but 400 is a good place to start and 5k up high is fine. The AR20 IME is one of the most surprising and underrated tweeters out there. They do a great job of dispelling the myth of all hard dome tweeters being harsh, as they play great up high with great detail and retain excellent composure. I didn't have to EQ mine very much.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Big update, got the right side door done. This time I took pics of how to do it RIGHT. 

Pry here first









Then tug, once you got a grip









Once the top panel is removed, focus on the side panel and use something to push in the clips before prying the side panel out

















Some still don't play nice









After loosening the 7mm bolts that hold the door (one by the door handle behind a cover plate, two behind the arm rest side panel that was just removed, two down at the bottom of the door), pull here first, with a tug









Not pictured but you want to tug on the panel until all clips are loose, then lift up and away taking the window sash with you. 

Then you pull the vapor barrier, and have a raw door.









Process of deadening


















I soldered up an XT60 connector to the woofer (and to the door wiring)









Mounted the woofer and added foam to make a gasket









For this door, I decided to try mounting the neoprene to the door panel side and this was an infinitely better idea. If you're following along, do this instead, it is easier. I deadened underneath the neoprene of course.

















Door went right back together without a single issue, remember to remount the sash and clips first










I time-aligned the system









And not pictured but it happened, I got a baseline tune going, and some basic rear-fill effects. So far, it sounds very good but there's a bit of work to do still. Imaging is really nice, the center of the image is right above the center console, at dash height. I need to test with more music but I think the front stage is anchored pretty well, and the midbass "kick" feels right.


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## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

2 questions:

What is that you used to seal the door panel holes and what kind of foam is that you made your "fast ring" out of?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

brumledb said:


> 2 questions:
> 
> What is that you used to seal the door panel holes and what kind of foam is that you made your "fast ring" out of?



The sealing came from the last of the Reckhorn deadener I used in the beginning. It isn't as good as the Knu Kolossus (no surprise there) but it has a thick enough foil to do a good job covering large holes. If I were doing it again, I'd probably cover them with Knu's lower end product, which would probably do quite well. 

I made that ring out of Ensolite peel and stick. I cut a big strip, and folded about half of on side over on itself, leaving the other half good to stick around the speaker adapter. A fast ringwould certainly work as well, but this is what I had on tap


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I carpeted the enclosure, a tricky shape but I managed.

















Took an old unused pillow and pulled the polyfil out of it, mid-stuffed my box to try and gain a little extra bass extension. 









Box mounted


















Tidied up the wiring, including redoing the input wires, which were a little long and the copper was exposed


















I found the box hard to photograph, due to the black color.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Since the majority of the work is done and (for now) the woodworking is complete, I got to finally polish and seal up the truck. One of my other hobbies/jobbies is detailing. 


































Griot's BOSS machine with their cream compounds,polishes and pads (best system I've used ever), and topped with Griot's Poly Wax. I was going to use Duragloss 105 (because it looks good on black) but the Poly Wax has done really well on my other vehicle and now that I've done it, I think it was a good call. I still need to consider a coating, to keep the paint mint over time. There were micro-scratches all over this thing, probably from its time sitting on the dealer lot. I hadn't washed it or sealed/waxed it once since I got it, since I've been making a mess with the audio build basically from week one of owning it. 



Snapped a pic of the front stage (pillars)


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

Always like all your builds. And loving this truck. I see you using the tennis ball and string for parking, lol. What's your taught on those tweeters compare to some of the others in your previous installs. 

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

SQLnovice said:


> Always like all your builds. And loving this truck. I see you using the tennis ball and string for parking, lol. What's your taught on those tweeters compare to some of the others in your previous installs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk


Thanks! On the tennis ball, right at the moment its wrapped a few times around the LED light bar up there, to stay out of the way while I detail and whatnot, but with my Durango in the garage, the ball works perfectly. Good eye!

I like the AR20's a bunch. I'm experimenting with different cross points just to see where they work best, currently at 6k. The AR3-A mids really steal the show and want to take most of the bandwidth, I've learned. In reality, this build could have also easily been a 2-way, like the x69's paired with the NVX big tweeter, or similar. But its been fun playing with a 3-way setup when the cross point options are so vast.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> I found the box hard to photograph, due to the black color.


Box came out great, looks straight out of a JL catalog. A little suggestion if I may. You might want to make a solid cover panel that covers the front and corner of the amp and DSP mounting area. I can see a situation where someones heal could easily step on the amps RCA, or mar up the DSP. Just the front and sides that way you don't have to worry about overheating.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Box came out great, looks straight out of a JL catalog. A little suggestion if I may. You might want to make a solid cover panel that covers the front and corner of the amp and DSP mounting area. I can see a situation where someones heal could easily step on the amps RCA, or mar up the DSP. Just the front and sides that way you don't have to worry about overheating.


That's definitely part of the gameplan. I've got an idea involving steel perf vents and plexi, which I have ready to go. Mostly, I wanted to run this without building those to determine if I'm happy with the sound of the enclosure. I've been debating re-making the box (for the 3rd time) in a 5/8" MDF, which would give me more air space and lower my Qtc. Maybe down the road.

That DSP stays ice-cold. I've never been able to warm it up, I'm just amazed!


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Out of curiosity, what are your cover points and T/A numbers look like? 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

beerdrnkr said:


> Out of curiosity, what are your cover points and T/A numbers look like?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


I put them up a bit ago, here's some closer shots

T/A








A is LF tweet
B is RF tweet
C is LF mid
D is RF mid
E is LF woofer
F is RF woofer
G is left rear speaker
H is right rear speaker
I is subwoofer

These are my I/O's









left side EQ









right side eq










crossover points
Tweeter HP 6041 Hz @ 24dB/oct Linkwitz
Midrange HP 349 Hz @ 24dB/oct Linkwitz -- LP 6041 Hz @ 24dB/oct Linkwitz
Woofer HP 75 Hz @ 24dB/oct Butterworth -- LP 349 Hz @ 24dB/oct 
Sub LP 100 Hz @ 24dB/oct Butterworth
Rears - HP 150 Hz @ 24dB/oct -- LP 6041 Hz @ 24dB/oct Linkwitz


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

OK, I'm rounding the last corner toward the finish line with this build. One of the last pieces is making the amp and processor cover panels. A little tricky, but doable it turns out.

I started with a shape









I cut in a window in each panel with my jig saw, and then routed a rabbet 

























I used a 22.5 degree angle on my saw and cut these









I got the rough shape glued and air-nailed together, and I test-fit them (with success, very pleased)

























It fits properly under the seat, which is great









And the shape matches the seat cushion when viewed vertically


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I rounded off all the rough edges and got these shapes looking...shapely









I nailed in some spacers which will keep these things in position









There was then a flurry of activity where a camera phone is not smart to use, which is the carpeting process. But I'm VERY pleased with the outcome, and honestly I have no idea how these came out so good, despite the funky ass shape. Yes, this is ONE solid piece of carpet laid on these, no slice/splices at all. I really have to thank my upholstery supplies shop for the excellent carpet they carry, as regular cheap stuff could never stretch and fit like this. Anyway,
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a7da37b3127cceeeb449c7963900000030O00AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820170417010513638.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[img]
[img]https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a7da37b3127cceeeb5295e37ec00000030O00AcOWjRo1btGQPbz4C/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00204754449820170417010509347.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

















































Last, I cut my perforated metal sheet I have to make top covers. I painted them gloss black, and then stapled and epoxied them into the rabbeted space


























































And with that, this baby is complete (I think!)


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## pat_smith1969 (Feb 17, 2010)

Seems I have been following your posts for YEARS.. pretty sure it has been at least 15. I always like how you do your installs.

As it happens I am considering moving out of my current vehicle (Jeep Wrangler) which is the worlds worst for car audio and moving to a Colorado similar to this one. When I do I will experiment with something similar to what you have there. 

Great install and great read, thanks.


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## Brules (Sep 22, 2017)

Great build log, I am fixing to do a system in my '16 crew cab Colorado.

Question: Why did you mount the amps where you did vs the back wall behind seat or under the driver/pass seats? Any particular reason?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Brules said:


> Great build log, I am fixing to do a system in my '16 crew cab Colorado.
> 
> Question: Why did you mount the amps where you did vs the back wall behind seat or under the driver/pass seats? Any particular reason?


No room! I fiddled with the space available for a while. Putting them behind the seat then requires you to mod the back panel (it is pretty thick), and I couldn't find a way to do it that pleased me. Under the seats would be fine, but there's not that much room. It would be a good second option. I built the box first, and then figured out the rest as I went.


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## Brules (Sep 22, 2017)

Gotcha and thanks. I can skip trying now lol!

I think I am going to use a Subthump box:

2015-2016 Colorado/Canyon Console Front Fire Sub Box

I am going to have it rounded/de edged and then pad and vinyl wrapped to match my black leather. I should have room then under the seat to do an amp install.

What was your final build list of equipment? And anything you would do differently or better?

Thanks!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Brules said:


> Gotcha and thanks. I can skip trying now lol!
> 
> I think I am going to use a Subthump box:
> 
> ...


Final equipment list was:
Image X69's, Audible Physics AR20 tweeters, and AR3-A mids, pair of ID8 subs, Arc KS500.1 Mini, and Helix V-Eight processor/amp running 9 channels.

The only thing I'd do differently would be changing the Image 6x9's for a more robust woofer, which would no doubt be the Audiofrog GS690's, which I now run in my Durango R/T. Everything else is bliss, and should run forever. My Durango had Image X69's as well but they failed me, so it could definitely happen to this truck as well.


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## Robertperez34 (May 26, 2018)

Did you have any issues with your bluetooth or losing any chimes tapping into the factory HU. Nice setup.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Robertperez34 said:


> Did you have any issues with your bluetooth or losing any chimes tapping into the factory HU. Nice setup.



Well, its gone now but no, I didn't have any issues w/ BT or Chimes with the parts I used.


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## Jairow (Aug 22, 2017)

I modeled my build on my GMC Canyon after this and didn’t have any issues either. I did have to play with the gains to keep the chimes from being obnoxiously loud. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

My only comment is, buy the Audiofrog 6x9's vs the Image Dynamics, durability being what it is with the ID's. The rest is glorious.


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## ruizal (Aug 4, 2015)

Quick question. Why not kerf the plates over the amp and dsp to match the seats?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

ruizal said:


> Quick question. Why not kerf the plates over the amp and dsp to match the seats?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I've not mastered kerfing, this is a very small radius.


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## ruizal (Aug 4, 2015)

fourthmeal said:


> I've not mastered kerfing, this is a very small radius.




Makes sense 
I was just curious. The build is great 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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