# Silver Flute W17RC38-08 6-1/2" Wool Cone



## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

ok so after some long waiting here is what ppl are waiting for. i finally put in my door speakers. each door is getting a pair of Silver Flute W17RC38-08 6-1/2" Wool Cone 8 ohm speakers, wired in parallel for a 4 ohm load in stereo going to my sb6 amp. i cannot remember if i have it on channels 5&6 seeing 200 watts or one of the front channels seeing one hundred watts. i'm leaning towards 5&6 since before the flutes i had my x65 mids wired to 2 ohms and i'd want 300 watts going to them. either way here's my review.
i started on the drivers side since i had already had the x65 from that side out. while the flutes where a tad shallower they were a big bigger then the x65. i had to cut out some more metal in each doors to accomadate. they are some sexi beefy speakers. i love the baskets on them. they are rated at 80 watts rms so i should have plenty of power going to them. now to the sound.

settings are set on full on the amp and on the deck everything is set for pass. i immediately noticed more low end on it. it was more pronounced. the impact from the mids were alot more noticeable. i didn't quite feel the snap but once again keep in mind all i have in the car is just the mids. no subs no highs. speaking of highs. the upper range wasn't there that the x65 had. i could definately hear more vocals and upper end coming from the x65. which is fine with me since i'm wanting these for mid bass duties.

all in all once i get my horns in i get the feeling i'ma love the way they sound. i do highly recommend trying them with your horns fellas.


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Can't wait to see what kind of sound they can put out paired with horns. Wondering if they will be efficient enough while being able to take power without falling apart (mechanically) in order to keep up with the horns. 

Kelvin


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

I may have missed it but why go with conventional drivers instead of pro audio?  I know your not new to horns but I guess I'm just curious. Having ID horns myself I couldn't imagine going with anything but pro audio just to keep up.


----------



## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

they seem to get pretty loud to me i don't think they'll have any troubles keepin up with the horns.


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

If they sound good without any processing, then they'll only get better when tweaked.


----------



## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

ok here's an update

horns check in mounted and wired
mids check in mounted, wired and grilled 

subs box built have the subs waiting on grills and wire then putting the subs in.

amps are all ready to go. tried out just the mids and horns today. sounds good. I have the basic crossover settins horns are 800 up @ 24db mids are 80-800 @24db sounds real good. not doing any eq'in yet till I get subs in. I started with a 36db slope sounded funny. subs should make a diff.


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I thought you had minihorns?


----------



## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

nope full bods


----------



## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

chevbowtie22 said:


> I may have missed it but why go with conventional drivers instead of pro audio? I know your not new to horns but I guess I'm just curious. Having ID horns myself I couldn't imagine going with anything but pro audio just to keep up.


It's mostly about Thiele Small parameters, particularly the efficiency bandwidth product. Just because a driver comes from B&C or JBL doesn't necessarily mean it has the right T/S parameters for a horn, and just because a driver comes from Peerless or Tangband doesn't mean that it *doesn't* have the right T/S parameters for a horn.

And to complicate things further, there are some oddball alignments you can use with drivers that would *never* work properly in a conventional horn.

For instance, I've all but given up on 'horn' drivers, because 'horn' drivers tend to have very light cones, low excursion, and simple motors. Car audio drivers tend to have heavy cones, high excursion, and a lot of them have good motors. It's not easy to get a car audio driver to work in a horn, but when you juggle the parameters right it can work really nice, because car audio drivers are built to take some abuse. Which means they often sound really nice at low and high power. (A lot of prosound drivers are unlistenable at high power levels. Not all, but a lot.)

The biggest horn ever built uses car audio drivers. (Danley Matterhorn, using MTX 9515 car audio drivers.)


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I think he was just talking about pro vs. domestic cone drivers to use as midbasses paired with horns.


----------

