# ResoNix: Premium Sound Treatment Solutions - Coming Soon



## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

By enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. Coming soon. 

Premium US manufactured Constrained Layer Damper, as well other category leading automotive sound treatment products.


ResoNix Sound Solutions




https://www.facebook.com/ResoNixSoundSolutions/

https://www.instagram.com/resonixsoundsolutions/


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

Yours? Did ya manage to buy Don out? Cause that'd be pretty cool.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rob feature said:


> Yours? Did ya manage to buy Don out? Cause that'd be pretty cool.


Mine. All mine. Don is doing his own thing. This will be a bit different. US manufactured constrained layer damper that is better than what the market has seen. The CLD is our main focus right now, but i have other category leading products in the works. Those are second since the CLD is the most time consuming and toughest product to get right. Once it is right, it will be available and other products will come soon after.


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

Nice! I for one can't wait to try some. Congrats and best of luck in the new enterprise!


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

YES. I’ll definitely be a customer.


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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

I'll hold off buying material to see what your offering.


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## slappinX (Oct 29, 2007)

Thank you, I need a new source now that Don is closed down.


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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

I’m excited to see this. Congratulations on all your hard work! I commend you for embarking on this endeavor to provide us audiofanatics with with quality product.

I’ll be trying it out as soon as you open shop.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Nick's ResoNix, I love it! Yeah, I'm subbed.


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## beak81champ (Oct 2, 2015)

Following closely, with high hopes!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Reso Nix Sound Solutions


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Good things coming.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Man, you really have the entrepreneurial bug bad, which is a good thing because I know you have an eye for quality. I'll definitely be interested to see what you bring to the table Nick.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Looking forward to this. I know it's early in the process but do you have "best guess, don't hold me to it" ETA?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Go Nick!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> Looking forward to this. I know it's early in the process but do you have "best guess, don't hold me to it" ETA?


The one thing i will not do is keep people in the dark. I am going to be fully open about the development of my product offerings and where they currently stand. So here we go..

The obvious most important product is the constrained layer damper. Right now i am working with a US based manufacturer (no, i cannot just make butyl in my basement lol) who i gave 1 very specific requirement. That is to be the top performing product on the market in terms of resonance control and how it holds up to heat. The manufacturer in question is no stranger to either of these. They test using ASTM E 756-05 guidelines to test for whats called composite loss factor. This is a very strict and detailed testing process that takes the lab _*3 days*_ to test a single sample and are tested for resonance control from -40 to about 200 (i think it was 190) Fahrenheit, as well as how it holds up to said heat. You even have to pay just to acquire the information on how to do said testing. We have testing results for a few different products and i was supposed to have some pricing info yesterday, but something more important jumped in front of us in line. When i mean more important, i mean customers of theirs who are spending millions, not thousands. Lets be real, im the smallest fish in their sea, but they have been incredible in terms of working with me and giving me the time of day and not brushing me off. So what i was told yesterday instead of pricing information was this..


2 different cld products, one smaller but thicker, one larger but thinner. Thicker one is aiming to be about 120 mil. This is based on suggestions by the engineers there who know my requirements for this product. The thinner will probably be around 80 mil, maybe less

Said person that i am working with is going to be at their main lab today. He said he will be "raising hell" with the cost analysis guys to get me pricing information by the end of this week. I told him that while i appreciate it, i wont be surprised if i dont have it until next week the earliest, and i am fine with that. Just the way things go, ya know? I have plenty of things to do in the meantime. (website for product descriptions, articles, etc. as well as running the shop and getting stuff done there). We will also have a butyl rope that will be of the same formula as our cld


The next 2 products we are working on is decouplers, like closed cell foam. One will be a closed cell foam, and one will be an OEM style material that is used in a lot of luxury cars. I have worked with, off the top of my head, 10 or 11 closed cell foams. I have only one in my mind that is just "better than decent" that is still on the market. Problem is, its insanely expensive. 4.89 per square foot of 1/8" material to be exact is what it costs in bulk. The reason i think it is good is because it is thick enough (if you order in quarter inch or half inch) to fill enough gaps and have some sort of pressure on the door panel, but is so much easier to compress. So it is easy to work with since you dont have to struggle to get your door panels back on, but it is thick and low enough on the durometer that it does an excellent job at decoupling. I aim to create a product that is similar that also meets requirements for use in automobiles (fire ratings). The other OEM style one will be even better at decoupling, while also providing absorption properties. While it wont absorb much, itll still be something and be effective at about 800hz and up which is where a decent chunk of outside noise resides. I had this idea for a while after trying to use polyfill in my doors as a backyard style equivalent. NO ONE else had a similar product in the aftermarket, that is until i got an email about a company that i happen to be a dealer for releasing the exact same thing im thinking of soon. lol, fml. Back to the closed cell foam, i have gotten a few samples but nothing that i am fully satisfied with yet. I still have a few more coming though.

Next up is a noise barrier. Everyone has MLV. I'm trying to do something different that will be much easier to work with and fit behind panels, while also being more than 4x thinner yet 2x heavier. Im talking about sheet lead. And let me just get this out of the way.. Lead in its solid, sheet form is NOT as dangerous as its made out to be. The issue with lead is when it is in its liquid (like when you solder) form, or powder form, and it is also only a concern for babies and small children. Regardless, you will not be touching the lead directly because of what i plan on doing with it, but theres one problem.... Problem here is that i am having a very tough time finding a supplier that will attach CCF to both sides of it. I can get said product in bulk right here in my tri-state area, but i havent found a single manufacturer here, or abroad that has the capability of combining ccf to it. Two totally separate things, so i can see why. This is my biggest hurdle right now. I will also offer MLV in the future so i dont limit my customer since there will be people who are afraid of messing with lead regardless of how dangerous or not it may be. The other product will just be much easier to work with and much more effective.

Obviously closed cell foam "rings" to couple your drivers to door panels.


Also working on sourcing the famous velcro that we all love

And of course i am open to other ideas and constructive criticism. Thank you for the support so far guys. Seriously. It means a lot.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

If you can clear the bar you've set for yourself this is going to be fantastic. Thanks for the thorough reply and all of this info!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> If you can clear the bar you've set for yourself this is going to be fantastic. Thanks for the thorough reply and all of this info!


And sure you guys already know that i will not release anything that is up to my standards. These are also products that i will be using in my shop. The whole reason for this venture is because i dont feel comfortable using anything left on the market in my customers cars at Apicella Auto Sound. So, here i am trying to make products that i would be comfortable using. Hopefully it all works out. After the 200+ phone calls and countless emails regarding these products that i have made in the past 2 weeks, the CLD and decouplers seem to be like they will work out just fine. I cant say the same about the barrier.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

That's my dawg!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

So hoping youll maybe have something in the works but if you have ever owned a silverado or s10 they have super weak door pins. Doors will sag with anynore weight than stock. This is the reason i have not done mlv on my doors. Wil you have something for this or am i just **** out of luck?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ToNasty said:


> So hoping youll maybe have something in the works but if you have ever owned a silverado or s10 they have super weak door pins. Doors will sag with anynore weight than stock. This is the reason i have not done mlv on my doors. Wil you have something for this or am i just **** out of luck?


MLV should be used to block noise, and in order to make any meaningful difference (in my opinion) you should be doing the whole (or as much of) the car as possible. If your just doing the doors, no point. But if you want to do them, there isnt anything out that will do what MLV does but is lighter. This is because the effective "ingredient" is mass. Mass alone is what is responsible for blocking noise.


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## JVD240 (Sep 7, 2009)

Congrats, man.

Excited to see what you come up with.

The lead/CCF combo seems to be the perfect solution for a lot of automotive needs. Will be interesting to see if it prices out reasonably.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> MLV should be used to block noise, and in order to make any meaningful difference (in my opinion) you should be doing the whole (or as much of) the car as possible. If your just doing the doors, no point. But if you want to do them, there isnt anything out that will do what MLV does but is lighter. This is because the effective "ingredient" is mass. Mass alone is what is responsible for blocking noise.


Doors is the only horizantal panel i havent done because i dont want to have to change my door pins 6 months from now. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> MLV should be used to block noise, and in order to make any meaningful difference (in my opinion) you should be doing the whole (or as much of) the car as possible. If your just doing the doors, no point. But if you want to do them, there isnt anything out that will do what MLV does but is lighter. This is because the effective "ingredient" is mass. Mass alone is what is responsible for blocking noise.



I've had insanely good results with foil-foam-foil type materials, like Low-E. I bet that would be a good product type to test for lightweight needs. An audio-specific version would be amazing is what I'm getting at.


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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

Isn't "noise" comprised of a full bandwidth spectrum? Bass is long wave and is more difficult to decouple. In my home theater we used clips and hat channels to decouple the walls, which were 3/4" gypsum with a layer of viscoelastic green glue in-between.

Shouldn't the same principles in effect (but with different products) apply to vehicles? 

And yes, mass is very good at decoupling and stopping the long wave bass. But it's heavy. What about dynamat extreme? I thought that was one of the products that touted itself as being relatively low weight?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

TheLex said:


> Isn't "noise" comprised of a full bandwidth spectrum? Bass is long wave and is more difficult to decouple. In my home theater we used clips and hat channels to decouple the walls, which were 3/4" gypsum with a layer of viscoelastic green glue in-between.
> 
> Shouldn't the same principles in effect (but with different products) apply to vehicles?
> 
> And yes, mass is very good at decoupling and stopping the long wave bass. But it's heavy. What about dynamat extreme? I thought that was one of the products that touted itself as being relatively low weight?



I think you have some terminology mixed up? Decoupling refers to when you place a soft substrate, like closed cell foam, in between two panels. This essentially "decouples" them and prevents them from vibrating against each other and creating unwanted buzzes and rattles. A constrained layer damper like Dynamat Extreme isnt meant to decouple or block noise. Its meant to absorb structure borne vibration by converting mechanical energy into thermal energy via the shear force of the viscoelastic layer of the product. for preventing outside noise from entering the cabin, you have two options. Absorption and blocking. In a car, absorption is only feasible for high frequencies since the frequencies that are absorb depends mostly on the thickness, and partially on the density of the "cells" or fibers of the absorption layer. Blocking is much more effective in a car since MLV is thin and dense. about 1lb/sq foot for 1/8" thick MLV. Blocking purely relies on mass to do its job. the more mass, the more sound you block.


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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

SkizeR said:


> I think you have some terminology mixed up? Decoupling refers to when you place a soft substrate, like closed cell foam, in between two panels. This essentially "decouples" them and prevents them from vibrating against each other and creating unwanted buzzes and rattles. A constrained layer damper like Dynamat Extreme isnt meant to decouple or block noise. Its meant to absorb structure borne vibration by converting mechanical energy into thermal energy via the shear force of the viscoelastic layer of the product. for preventing outside noise from entering the cabin, you have two options. Absorption and blocking. In a car, absorption is only feasible for high frequencies since the frequencies that are absorb depends mostly on the thickness, and partially on the density of the "cells" or fibers of the absorption layer. Blocking is much more effective in a car since MLV is thin and dense. about 1lb/sq foot for 1/8" thick MLV. Blocking purely relies on mass to do its job. the more mass, the more sound you block.


You’re correct. What you’ve describe is similar to what we did i our home theater. The clips and hat channel decoupled the walls, as did the green glue between the layers of Sheetrock. The Sheetrock and green glue also act as a CLD. the mass of the two layers of 3/4” rock act as a kind of blocker. MLV would have been more ideal but it would have been much more labor intensive and expensive. 

The really nice theatres have two separate double rock walls (with inner and outer layers of double rock with green glue in-between) and there’s an air gap in-between. 

It’s anazing how that technology is being applied to the car environment.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

I'd love to see a 3M thinsulate-esque product. From the description of the polyfill product, it sounds like you're thinking down that direction. The leaded barrier sounds great too.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

GreatLaBroski said:


> I'd love to see a 3M thinsulate-esque product. From the description of the polyfill product, it sounds like you're thinking down that direction. The leaded barrier sounds great too.


exactly what i was thinking, I have samples coming, and i think its going to work well.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> exactly what i was thinking, I have samples coming, and i think its going to work well.


That could be stuffed into cavities correct? I have 2 cavities that cross the entire rear of the cab









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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ToNasty said:


> That could be stuffed into cavities correct? I have 2 cavities that cross the entire rear of the cab
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, it wont be able to be stuffed. 

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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

will you be supplying your brothers to the north? or just U.S.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

toneloc2 said:


> will you be supplying your brothers to the north? or just U.S.


probably. need to focus on getting the product finished first


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I personally prefer the original name for the company. Glad to see you kept the logo mostly in tact.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

ToNasty said:


> That could be stuffed into cavities correct? I have 2 cavities that cross the entire rear of the cab
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've got some areas like that in my roof on my T-top car, any suggestions Skizer? I've thought about expanding foam, but that couldn't be removed.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

ckirocz28 said:


> I've got some areas like that in my roof on my T-top car, any suggestions Skizer? I've thought about expanding foam, but that couldn't be removed.


If this was an older vehicle. Id use expanding foam like i used to. But im not doing that in this vehicle

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ckirocz28 said:


> I've got some areas like that in my roof on my T-top car, any suggestions Skizer? I've thought about expanding foam, but that couldn't be removed.


TBH, i would be hesitant to do anything with a T-top. I know when i had my 300zx messing with the the ttops were the last thing i wanted to do. Usually people stuff their cavities with roxul, or denim insulation. But you dont want it to get wet.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

ckirocz28 said:


> I've got some areas like that in my roof on my T-top car, any suggestions Skizer? I've thought about expanding foam, but that couldn't be removed.


Depending on the size of the holes, polyfil or denim insulation is probably your best bet.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

ToNasty said:


> That could be stuffed into cavities correct? I have 2 cavities that cross the entire rear of the cab
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've seen people use a rope/wire to pull thinsulate through openings into cavities like that in youtube videos of people treating vans. So, in theory, you might be able to. Just depends on how the backing/structural layer is designed.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> TBH, i would be hesitant to do anything with a T-top. I know when i had my 300zx messing with the the ttops were the last thing i wanted to do. Usually people stuff their cavities with roxul, or denim insulation. But you dont want it to get wet.


'88 IROC, it's the part of the roof between the t-tops and the hatch, a lot of layered, formed, reinforcement with holes. It sometimes pings, and there's no identifying what layer does it.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

SkizeR said:


> I think you have some terminology mixed up? Decoupling refers to when you place a soft substrate, like closed cell foam, in between two panels. This essentially "decouples" them and prevents them from vibrating against each other and creating unwanted buzzes and rattles. A constrained layer damper like Dynamat Extreme isnt meant to decouple or block noise. Its meant to absorb structure borne vibration by converting mechanical energy into thermal energy via the shear force of the viscoelastic layer of the product. for preventing outside noise from entering the cabin, you have two options. Absorption and blocking. In a car, absorption is only feasible for high frequencies since the frequencies that are absorb depends mostly on the thickness, and partially on the density of the "cells" or fibers of the absorption layer. Blocking is much more effective in a car since MLV is thin and dense. about 1lb/sq foot for 1/8" thick MLV. Blocking purely relies on mass to do its job. the more mass, the more sound you block.


^^^THIS is one of the most accurate and concise descriptions of the different types of materials and the way they are supposed to be effectively used to improve SQ in a vehicle. 

The ONLY thing I might add is that actually blocking sound not only requires using a dense and heavy material but also that FULL coverage of said material is important as well...otherwise the sound waves, which are omnidirectional, will simply go around the area being blocked and through the gaps...even small spaces left uncovered will detract from the amount of sound blocked.

Just my .02


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> TBH, i would be hesitant to do anything with a T-top. I know when i had my 300zx messing with the the ttops were the last thing i wanted to do. Usually people stuff their cavities with roxul, or denim insulation. But you dont want it to get wet.


I think I might try stuffing some yoga mat pieces in there.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ckirocz28 said:


> I think I might try stuffing some yoga mat pieces in there.


That wont do anything. 

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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

seafish said:


> ^^^THIS is one of the most accurate and concise descriptions of the different types of materials and the way they are supposed to be effectively used to improve SQ in a vehicle.
> 
> The ONLY thing I might add is that actually blocking sound not only requires using a dense and heavy material but also that FULL coverage of said material is important as well...otherwise the sound waves, which are omnidirectional, will simply go around the area being blocked and through the gaps...even small spaces left uncovered will detract from the amount of sound blocked.
> 
> Just my .02


Yes, it's an excellent description of the terminology and technology. The big question is however, how much mass (or weight for our practical purposes) can we load up on the door before we encounter problems.

The president's limo The Beast, has massively thick doors with undoubtedly equally massive door hinges. Our light duty vehicles have lightweight hinges. So how much risk are we taking by adding all those layers and their mass to our doors? How much is reasonable, and when is it enough without having to deal with doors constantly going out of alignment?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

TheLex said:


> Yes, it's an excellent description of the terminology and technology. The big question is however, how much mass (or weight for our practical purposes) can we load up on the door before we encounter problems.
> 
> The president's limo The Beast, has massively thick doors with undoubtedly equally massive door hinges. Our light duty vehicles have lightweight hinges. So how much risk are we taking by adding all those layers and their mass to our doors? How much is reasonable, and when is it enough without having to deal with doors constantly going out of alignment?


Depends on the vehicle. I always do enough to be effective but not so much that it's excessive. Never had an issue.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

TheLex said:


> Yes, it's an excellent description of the terminology and technology. The big question is however, how much mass (or weight for our practical purposes) can we load up on the door before we encounter problems.


That is for sure and obviously each vehicle will be different as well as each persons desires for quiet.

My truck weighs #8000 with me in it and with the early gen diesel engine I need as much blocking as I can get. I am using 1#/SF MLV on the doors and rear cab wall and 2#/SF sheet lead on the floor, over the tranny hump and up the firewall, as well as 1#/SF MLV over that. On the doors I am using only 1#/sf MLV. I have probably added about 225# to my trucks overall weight in sound deadening alone and it helped IMMENSELY with creating a MUCH quieter listening environment inside the cab and with the 450hp obviously the truck doesn't feel a thing in terms of reduced performance.


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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

*FT*



seafish said:


> That is for sure and obviously each vehicle will be different as well as each persons desires for quiet.
> 
> My truck weighs #8000 with me in it and with the early gen diesel engine I need as much blocking as I can get. I am using 1#/SF MLV on the doors and rear cab wall and 2#/SF sheet lead on the floor, over the tranny hump and up the firewall, as well as 1#/SF MLV over that. On the doors I am using only 1#/sf MLV. I have probably added about 225# to my trucks overall weight in sound deadening alone and it helped IMMENSELY with creating a MUCH quieter listening environment inside the cab and with the 450hp obviously the truck doesn't feel a thing in terms of reduced performance.


Oh I hear ya on that. My F450 scaled at 9350 lbs. It's very quiet inside though. I can barely hear the clacking of the diesel. I have no doubt that I can add some MLV to the doors with no issues.

However, my Subaru Ascent is much lighter. I'm doing the sound system in that vehicle first. And I'm a little worried about how much mass I can add to those doors. I guess at 1#/SF, it's probably no more than 16 lbs of MLV, but it does make me wonder what the effect will be on the hinges after I add 25+ lbs of "stuff" to the door.


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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

I haven't had any be issues with my Toyota door hinges. I have the door brace side lined CLD tile with 1#/sf MLV. 1#/sf MLV as a vapor barrier with CLD tiles inner side. I put a layer of thinsulate 600sl and 1/2" melamine foam sandwiched between the door trim.

I wish I knew about 2#/sf MLV and lead sheeting like I know now. I wonder how much of a difference I could measure if I went 2#/sf MLV vs 1#/sf MLV. Diminishing returns?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Why is anyone really concerned about door weight and failing hinges?

I've got a tin can of a car, a 2004 Scion xB. The doors got the full treatment as prescribed by SDS. More than 25% coverage Knu Kolossus CLD on the outer door skin, with as much targeted coverage as I could on the inner door skin and door panel. There is also full coverage single layer SDS CCF and 1# MLV hung with velcro strips between the inner door skin and door panel. It has been that way for quite some time. I have had zero issues regarding sag, creaking or compromised hinges and I drive the car every day. 

I really think that this is a non-issue if we are talking about typical effective treatment of a door. I really have no idea why guys driving around in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are worried about a few additional pounds on the door. Now, if you get into some of the ridiculousness I see in SPL builds/doors for days, that is a different story.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rton20s said:


> Now, if you get into some of the ridiculousness I see in SPL builds/doors for days, that is a different story.


ResoNix concrete door filler, coming soon.


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## SQram (Aug 17, 2007)

rton20s said:


> Why is anyone really concerned about door weight and failing hinges?
> 
> I've got a tin can of a car, a 2004 Scion xB. The doors got the full treatment as prescribed by SDS. More than 25% coverage Knu Kolossus CLD on the outer door skin, with as much targeted coverage as I could on the inner door skin and door panel. There is also full coverage single layer SDS CCF and 1# MLV hung with velcro strips between the inner door skin and door panel. It has been that way for quite some time. I have had zero issues regarding sag, creaking or compromised hinges and I drive the car every day.
> 
> I really think that this is a non-issue if we are talking about typical effective treatment of a door. I really have no idea why guys driving around in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are worried about a few additional pounds on the door. Now, if you get into some of the ridiculousness I see in SPL builds/doors for days, that is a different story.


My door is definitely sagging. Didn't happen until I loaded it full of Dynamat.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> ResoNix concrete door filler, coming soon.


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## RRWWS (Dec 26, 2017)

I've owed a lot of used GM trucks and suvs. Door hinges wear out. Most of them never had any sound treatment - the last three have. The life expectancy of the hinge pins and bushings hasn't been effected by full sound treatment with mlv.

Good thing that the pins / bushings are fairly easy to change .... It's not like your going to have replace them every week.

It's no different then tires / oil and spark plugs. **** wears out


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Just got off the phone with the manufacturer. Pricing was sent to the east coast distributor (they dont sell direct unless your spending millions a year). They said i should have the proposal on monday. 

Pricing that i will be recieving include information on 4 different options. 120mil (3mm) butyl layer, and 80mil (2mm) butyl, 4 mil aluminum, and 3mil aluminum . 

Im thinking the main product will be in smaller pieces (12 x 7 or so) and be 120mil and 4 mil, while the larger sheets will be 80 mil and 3 mil.

Performance data for composite loss factor done to astm-e756-05 standards and i will have that test data along with test data for a few competitors (no names will be included, sorry). Temperature resistance testing results will also be included from what i understand. 

Exciting!


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

You know if the door hinges were lubricated as they are supposed to be according to the owners manual than wear on them may never happen even with the added weight of the MLV in the door. 

SkizeR I'm curious what the meaning is behind the name you chose for your company? Sorry if I missed it.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

rton20s said:


> Why is anyone really concerned about door weight and failing hinges?
> 
> I've got a tin can of a car, a 2004 Scion xB. The doors got the full treatment as prescribed by SDS. More than 25% coverage Knu Kolossus CLD on the outer door skin, with as much targeted coverage as I could on the inner door skin and door panel. There is also full coverage single layer SDS CCF and 1# MLV hung with velcro strips between the inner door skin and door panel. It has been that way for quite some time. I have had zero issues regarding sag, creaking or compromised hinges and I drive the car every day.
> 
> I really think that this is a non-issue if we are talking about typical effective treatment of a door. I really have no idea why guys driving around in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are worried about a few additional pounds on the door. Now, if you get into some of the ridiculousness I see in SPL builds/doors for days, that is a different story.


Youve clearly never owned a chevy. All my trucks have been chevys. Contrete. Plywood and foam in the room. Rear all braces. All that jazz for when it was spl. But never much in the doors because they sag after a month with minimal deadeneing. Just 1 of the crap things when owning a chevy. Weak ass door pins


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Another update. Just got a box of samples of foam that fit my requirements from another US based manufacturer. I think i found the perfect one. Still have a few samples coming though


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

V8toilet said:


> SkizeR I'm curious what the meaning is behind the name you chose for your company? Sorry if I missed it.


Its a play on words. We want to get rid of resonance, so we "nix" (_verb - 1.
put an end to; cancel.it_) it.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Congrats SkizeR! Wish you the best with this endeavor! And I will be getting a new(er) car later this year so I hope to have a go to place for nixing resonances. Love the name!

So much easier in home theater. Just add another heavy ass layer of drywall.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dgage said:


> Congrats SkizeR! Wish you the best with this endeavor! And I will be getting a new(er) car later this year so I hope to have a go to place for nixing resonances. Love the name!
> 
> 
> 
> So much easier in home theater. Just add another heavy ass layer of drywall.


Thanks man. Hopefully I'll have something soon

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## VincMartel (Mar 21, 2017)

I wish you good luck with this new business. I’ll be a buyer.

Do you intend to offer something similar to black hole tiles ?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

VincMartel said:


> I wish you good luck with this new business. I’ll be a buyer.
> 
> Do you intend to offer something similar to black hole tiles ?


Thank you for the support. As far as a product that handles absorption in the door, that's a future idea. Need to focus on the basics for now.

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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Good luck Nick... Can't wait to see this product myself. 

Will there be any order special ?? 
Just wondering 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

quickaudi07 said:


> Good luck Nick... Can't wait to see this product myself.
> 
> Will there be any order special ??
> Just wondering
> ...


Nope. Price is the price, period. I learned recently that deals arent mutually beneficial as the receiving party seems to always claim.


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Congrats on your next endeavor and good luck... I definitely will be back for more of your services when the time is right!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

BlueAc said:


> Congrats on your next endeavor and good luck... I definitely will be back for more of your services when the time is right!


Thanks!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

SkizeR said:


> Nope. Price is the price, period. I learned recently that deals arent mutually beneficial as the receiving party seems to always claim.





Not all handy's are created equal


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

*ANY FEEDBACK ON THE BELOW IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. MORE FEEDBACK WILL HELP ME MAKE A PRODUCT THAT YOU GUYS WANT*


That said, got a ton of samples today. Foam, poly fiber mat, and mlv. the mlv wasnt very good so its going in the trash. Some of the foams are really good, and the poly mat is exactly what i was looking for. 

*This brings me to a few questions that i want you guys to answer to help me know WHAT YOU GUYS WANT*

1) Considering that a typical closed cell foam install never actually gets installed in an area that sees water (no, in between your door panel and inner door skin should NEVER see water. Thats why there is a vapor barrier), how would you guys feel about installing a product like the fiber mats in place of closed cell foam in between your door panel and inner door skin. The fiber mat does hold water. BUT, the thing is your car should not be allowing water to get in that area. If it does, you have other issues. So that said, how do you feel about that? or would you rather stick to closed cell foam even if it means a sacrifice of performance on the decoupling side (i genuinely think this will do an amazing job as a decoupler), and lose all performance in the absorption department. this will absorb higher frequencies, just like melamine foam. 

2) Lets say you said "go for it nick, sounds like a great idea" and i went ahead and released a fiber mat product. Would you prefer if it had an adhesive backing or not? the arguments for adhesive backing are obvious. But the more i think about it, the more i think no adhesive would be better. reason being, if you ever need to uninstall it for whatever reason, you will not get all of it out. it would tear the mat apart and leave the adhesive behind. My thinking is just use something like velcro to secure it to the top of the door panel


That said, i think this will be a bit better than typical closed cell foam for a few reasons. One is that i think it will be a better decoupler. Theres no way for me to really prove this, but after plenty of experience with many different foams, you can kinda just tell when a product will be a better decoupler than another (softer durometer rating, but still enough to provide support). Another reason is it will be much easier to install if i go without the adhesive. Literally just cut and hang. Third, it offers something that closed cell foam does not.. absorption. Since it is a fibrous material, it has sound absorption properties. According to the graphs the manufacturer supplied, itll start being effective at around 800hz, and very effective over 1.2khz which makes sense after doing a bit of reading about sound absorption in Chapter 16 of the Sixth edition of the Master Handbook Of Acoustics by F. Alton Everest and Ken C. Pohlmann. So this can help at least a little bit with road noise of some sorts. 

That all said, here are the samples. 


everything















3 different samples of foam. the two bottom unfortunately hold water (see above why i think it doesnt matter all that much), but still. The top one will kinda hold it but only if you really force it to. Top one is a semi-closed cell foam and seems to be the best for decoupling. It seems to be the perfect compliance. Not to soft, but still compresses to almost nothing. the sample is 5/8" thick and i can squeeze it down to less than 1/16" no problem. If i do choose this foam, it will not be that thick. Most likely 1/4". it holds its shape for half a second after you compress it so the second photo is of just that.
































Heres all the fiber mat. The black one is a hydrophobic layer that is used in door panels on this exact material by the OEM's. It still will hold water if it gets to it, but this definitely helps. Second pic is one with adhesive backing


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I commented on your FB post, but the fiber material with the black hydrophobic layer looks exactly like what Toyota used on the back side of my door panel. The installation is not full coverage, but looked strategic to target decoupling. Door layers as follows: Outer Skin, Inner Skin, Vapor Barrier, Fiber Material, Door Panel. Pretty standard layout from what I can tell. So long as you keep a vapor barrier in place, I think that fiber material will be a great solution.

Example image I found of the rear door panel.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rton20s said:


> I commented on your FB post, but the fiber material with the black hydrophobic layer looks exactly like what Toyota used on the back side of my door panel. The installation is not full coverage, but looked strategic to target decoupling. Door layers as follows: Outer Skin, Inner Skin, Vapor Barrier, Fiber Material, Door Panel. Pretty standard layout from what I can tell. So long as you keep a vapor barrier in place, I think that fiber material will be a great solution.
> 
> Example image I found of the rear door panel.


exactly. thank you Dustin. Personally, i know that where ever someone would be installing closed cell foam, there absolutely should not be water. If there is water there, you have bigger issues to worry about. But what im trying to figure out here is how the people feel regardless of what actually goes on. The best product wont sell if the people think its not a good idea. I want to know what you guys want. So, talk to me people.


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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

Personally I'd be more comfortable with less or no water absorption. Cars are rough environments.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

Hydrophobically treated fibers in the poly mat would be ideal, but the price difference is a big consideration.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

GreatLaBroski said:


> Hydrophobically treated fibers in the poly mat would be ideal, but the price difference is a big consideration.


its just a hydrophobic layer. I dont think its that much. i should know soon


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

It'd be cool if your supplier has ASTM E-1050 measurements for the poly stuff mat. I'm curious how it performs compared to "a certain different poly mat product".


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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Look up Allan Park testing labs - they can simulate all weather conditions, etc. I’ll make a few inquiries and find out if they do contract/for-hire work... they have some insane microphone array booths designed to do like 3d ultrasounds to pin point any specific frequency for nvh  I’ve see. Some of the results in videos.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

unix_usr said:


> Look up Allan Park testing labs - they can simulate all weather conditions, etc. I’ll make a few inquiries and find out if they do contract/for-hire work... they have some insane microphone array booths designed to do like 3d ultrasounds to pin point any specific frequency for nvh  I’ve see. Some of the results in videos.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i think i know a guy with an in there..


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## JamesRC (Sep 18, 2017)

You're doing awesome things, Nick.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

JamesRC said:


> You're doing awesome things, Nick.


I'm trying to


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

The only thing I have feel I've been missing is low cost absorbtion and low cost shipping. Waterproof decoupler makes no difference to me but I'm a science and facts guy. My favorite decoupler is ensolite. It only needs to stop vibration transfer and compress. I've taken doors apart with Ensolite on it and it's not really an inconvenience. You just cut it the hole where it was reach in and stick another piece over when your done. You typically put it on permanent surfaces. I do agree with you about it just ripping apart on a fibered material.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Theslaking said:


> The only thing I have feel I've been missing is low cost absorbtion and low cost shipping. Waterproof decoupler makes no difference to me but I'm a science and facts guy. My favorite decoupler is ensolite. It only needs to stop vibration transfer and compress. I've taken doors apart with Ensolite on it and it's not really an inconvenience. You just cut it the hole where it was reach in and stick another piece over when your done. You typically put it on permanent surfaces. I do agree with you about it just ripping apart on a fibered material.


Exactly what i use as a decoupler


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> The only thing I have feel I've been missing is low cost absorbtion and low cost shipping. Waterproof decoupler makes no difference to me but I'm a science and facts guy. My favorite decoupler is ensolite. It only needs to stop vibration transfer and compress. I've taken doors apart with Ensolite on it and it's not really an inconvenience. You just cut it the hole where it was reach in and stick another piece over when your done. You typically put it on permanent surfaces. I do agree with you about it just ripping apart on a fibered material.


I have been using ensolite for a while as well. I'm not satisfied with its performance

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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

What shortcomings have you come across? I simply ask it to stop my panels from rattling against my car.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> What shortcomings have you come across? I simply ask it to stop my panels from rattling against my car.


I dont find it to be compliant enough, and it also degrades and stiffens up over time. By not being compliant enough, it still leaves some left over rattles since it's so thin but kinda stiff. Picture a much thicker foam that was much more easily compressed. I have used other ccf's that are like this and are much better but they are stupid expensive. 

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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I can agree with your assessment. If was going to sell the stuff I would be forced to look at it that way. But since I'm not it's "good enough" and cost effective.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

1) If it does a better job of decoupling I wouldn't mind making sure a vapor barrier is up to scratch.

2) Depends on how effective the adhesive backing would be at holding it in place versus tape, velcro or whatever else might be used. I'd be looking for the most effective option.


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## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

Id opt for less water than more! The heavy snow and rainy state guys know the doors get very wet often. Even today while Im loading the baby into my truck the door panel was hosed down. Although many my not live in these conditions, water being held creates many other issues such as rust, mold, mildew, smells and so on. Im all for a stuffing setup, if it was hydrophobic and had an easy way to release. I hate velcro but if thats what it is what can I do. Im not smart enough to develop otherwise.

Also something with good adhesion for a black truck in Florida roof would be great! Nothing like pulling down your headliner and all your materials sitting on it.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> 1) If it does a better job of decoupling I wouldn't mind making sure a vapor barrier is up to scratch.
> 
> 2) Depends on how effective the adhesive backing would be at holding it in place versus tape, velcro or whatever else might be used. I'd be looking for the most effective option.


Thanks for your feedback. Regarding #2, im thinking no adhesive will be better since an adhesive backing will not be able to be removed. I have a line on industrial strength velcro and i think doing a strip across the top will be much more practical, and easier to install. Do you agree?


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> Thanks for your feedback. Regarding #2, im thinking no adhesive will be better since an adhesive backing will not be able to be removed. I have a line on industrial strength velcro and i think doing a strip across the top will be much more practical, and easier to install. Do you agree?


I hadn't even thought of removal and reapplication since we never take anything back out after we install it.  I do agree.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Theslaking said:


> What shortcomings have you come across? I simply ask it to stop my panels from rattling against my car.



Ensolite also makes noise, like squeaking sometimes. I much prefer neoprene in 1/4 and 1/8" depending. To me, spraying high-tack aerosol contact cement makes more sense to me than something like Ensolite Peel & Stick.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I like the ease of installation for adhesive backed decoupler layers (like Ensolite). Once it's in, I don't find that I've had to rip it back off. Even if I needed to, it's not cost prohibitive enough that I would want to go through the trouble of using something like velcro for installation. And the PSA is still a better method than spray adhesive.


I like the compressing foam. Something like that material in a thinner product like 1/8" with a PSA would be about perfect. Very compressable, more pliable.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

If you had compressible foam with the peel n stick I would be all over it. Velcro is only for MLV in my doors!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Testing results from the lab are in


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

fourthmeal said:


> Ensolite also makes noise, like squeaking sometimes. I much prefer neoprene in 1/4 and 1/8" depending. To me, spraying high-tack aerosol contact cement makes more sense to me than something like Ensolite Peel & Stick.


this. I hate that about it. Most rattles are gone, but sometimes there are squeaks 



captainobvious said:


> I like the ease of installation for adhesive backed decoupler layers (like Ensolite). Once it's in, I don't find that I've had to rip it back off. Even if I needed to, it's not cost prohibitive enough that I would want to go through the trouble of using something like velcro for installation. And the PSA is still a better method than spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> I like the compressing foam. Something like that material in a thinner product like 1/8" with a PSA would be about perfect. Very compressable, more pliable.


So the foam that i picked out and kevin and matei also agreed would definitely be the best out of the 35+ samples we got is dense, BUT.. it can also compress to next to nothing. Frankly, i think getting it in 1/8" wouldnt be the best considering how compliant it is. Theres many other foams out there like this that can squish down to nothing with ease, but none of them have any density to it. Theyre like 99.99% air and are open cell lol. This seems different. The 5/8" sample i got squishes down to less than 1/16", maybe even 1/32". Its impressive. That said, i also got pricing on it today. 



Theslaking said:


> If you had compressible foam with the peel n stick I would be all over it. Velcro is only for MLV in my doors!


Thanks for the feedback. seems like something with adhesive backing is the way to go, or should i just offer both? minimum order quantity is surprisingly low on this stuff it seems.. Heres the problem. a good, automotive grade PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) increases the price by almost double. Does that change anything for you guys?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> fourthmeal said:
> 
> 
> > Ensolite also makes noise, like squeaking sometimes. I much prefer neoprene in 1/4 and 1/8" depending. To me, spraying high-tack aerosol contact cement makes more sense to me than something like Ensolite Peel & Stick.
> ...


Id say theres places for both adhesive and non adhesive. Id buy both


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Thanks for the feedback. seems like something with adhesive backing is the way to go, or should i just offer both? minimum order quantity is surprisingly low on this stuff it seems.. Heres the problem. a good, automotive grade PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) increases the price by almost double. Does that change anything for you guys?


It does for me personally. But that of course depends on the pricing to start with. $0.75 to $1.50 per linear foot is no problem. $4.50 to $9 per linear foot starts to look like more of a problem.


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## Erroon (Sep 8, 2016)

Some of us more price sensitive customers would definitely appreciate a version that requires more work but is cheaper


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Heres results on the 2mm (80mil). Features a few other well known brands along with a favorite. Names will not be mentioned, no ifs, ands, or buts. Waiting for data on the 3mm (120mil).















Also got pricing for the them. Unfortunately from this manufacturer its a bit more expensive than i hoped, but the test data is good, so idk. This is *NOT* final, since i could end up going a different route. But if i do go this route.. The 2mm will be about $6 per square foot. Same ballpark as other 80 mil thick dampers, but see testing above. The big bad beefcake 3mm CLD will be about $12 per square foot. I know, not cheap. But the 2mm is your typical sound damping companies "pro", or "extreme" variant. For us, itll be our base, again, IF i go this route.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

More good news, I have access to everyones favorite vinyl compatible velcro. That will be part of our offerings.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I wonder if bulk ordering (and labeling?) is possible from the foam factory. I get my neoprene from there, and it has all the properties I look for. It is closed-cell, compressible but it doesn't crush. I use the spray contact adhesive I get from my upholstery supplier, sticks extremely well to the neoprene, and its my carpet adhesive as well so I always have a few cans. 



Anyway, how'd the testing go? edit nvrmind, I see!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Just got pricing back on the particular foam i mentioned before. Heres the deal with foam. You usually cannot get it from a manufacturer in sheets or rolls. It comes in whats called "buns". it literally looks like a gigantic loaf of bread. From here, you need to have whats called a foam fabricator or foam converter and have them turn it into what your looking for. So here is pricing after speaking to one of three fabricators that are approved by the manufacturer. If one of the others are lower cost, great.

The thinnest size they have on hand is 10mm thick, and comes in 4.5 x 135 foot rolls. Anything thinner requires additional work and from what i would assume just raise the cost for less product. i realize that 10mm seems very thick for a ccf, but again, this stuff compresses into virtually nothing if you need it to. So i think it might be fine anyway. My goal was for 8mm, so hardly a difference. That said, if i go this route pricing is a bit more than i hoped for, but then again its not a cheap foam. I truly believe it is perfect for our application. It ends up at:

Premium automotive grade pressure sensitive adhesive backed 10mm foam: $3.13/sq ft 
Standard automotive grade pressure sensitive adhesive backed 10mm foam: $2.73/sq ft 
10mm foam with no adhesive: $1.90/sq ft retail


I will be contacting the other foam fabricators tomorrow


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Can I just get an entire roll with no adhesive, wrap the whole thing around the vehicle and go out and play bumper cars?


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

For about $100 you can cover an entire car (average sedan) with adhesive backed. That seems reasonable to me.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

I also got pricing back for the vinyl compatible velcro that we all love. 

Price for 2" wide vinyl compatible velcro will be about $5 for a 12" length.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> Can I just get an entire roll with no adhesive, wrap the whole thing around the vehicle and go out and play bumper cars?


i aint stoppin ya


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> For about $100 you can cover an entire car (average sedan) with adhesive backed. That seems reasonable to me.


idk what kinda math you did, but i just went out to a sedan in the shop right now and took some very rough measurements. about 100sq feet if you truly wanted full coverage. I'm talking every little inch of the interior and trunk. 

doors are about 12 square feet on most cars, including a big truck thats here right now.

That means $313 bucks for a full car (thats $1000 less than the one brand who makes the foam i like. Yes, you read that correctly), $75 for front doors. so yeah, i guess thats not bad.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> Just got pricing back on the particular foam i mentioned before. Heres the deal with foam. You usually cannot get it from a manufacturer in sheets or rolls. It comes in whats called "buns". it literally looks like a gigantic loaf of bread. From here, you need to have whats called a foam fabricator or foam converter and have them turn it into what your looking for. So here is pricing after speaking to one of three fabricators that are approved by the manufacturer. If one of the others are lower cost, great.
> 
> The thinnest size they have on hand is 10mm thick, and comes in 4.5 x 135 foot rolls. Anything thinner requires additional work and from what i would assume just raise the cost for less product. i realize that 10mm seems very thick for a ccf, but again, this stuff compresses into virtually nothing if you need it to. So i think it might be fine anyway. My goal was for 8mm, so hardly a difference. That said, if i go this route pricing is a bit more than i hoped for, but then again its not a cheap foam. I truly believe it is perfect for our application. It ends up at:
> 
> ...


What is the difference between the "Premium" and "Standard" grade foams?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rton20s said:


> What is the difference between the "Premium" and "Standard" grade foams?


That's just the adhesive. It's a slightly stronger adhesive. 

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dont worry on the price just yet guys. there are many other manufactures for me to try. I will be making another gajillion calls tomorrow.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> idk what kinda math you did, .


Me either. I just recalculated my car and it was about $330.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> Me either. I just recalculated my car and it was about $330.


Lol. Still not terribly bad. 

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## unix_usr (Dec 4, 2013)

Dude - want this for my car!

http://shortsleeveandtieclub.com/a-look-at-just-whats-inside-of-a-tesla-tire/

Stupid tires are loud, wifeys car too... this might make the biggest difference for me - but I’m not able to find any sort of aftermarket product for it. 


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

unix_usr said:


> Dude - want this for my car!
> 
> A Look at Just What's Inside of a Tesla Tire | The Short Sleeve and Tie Club
> 
> ...


There was a thread on NVH (I believe) that discussed these types of tires. I believe there are options available in the aftermarket, but sizes are limited. I think Patrick Bateman shared some information on them.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Somewhat related is Honda has designed some resonators to reduce wheel/tire noise.

https://global.honda/innovation/technology/automobile/Noise-reducing-wheel-picturebook.html

Would sure love it if this were an addon that could be added to any set of rims.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

dgage said:


> Somewhat related is Honda has designed some resonators to reduce wheel/tire noise.
> 
> https://global.honda/innovation/technology/automobile/Noise-reducing-wheel-picturebook.html
> 
> Would sure love it if this were an addon that could be added to any set of rims.


That would be cool. I'm sure it will hit the after market sooner or later.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Had more samples come in. This time it's a different manufacturer of the fiber sheets. This time its hydrophobic 

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Testing out they hydrophobic fiber mat..


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

That is NICE


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

unix_usr said:


> Dude - want this for my car!
> 
> A Look at Just What's Inside of a Tesla Tire | The Short Sleeve and Tie Club
> 
> ...


I've been using Pirelli Cinturato P7's. Extremely quite for a tire.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> That would be cool. I'm sure it will hit the after market sooner or later.


The issue is it will only work for the tire size and rim combination it is designed for. That will be a hurdle for the aftermarket community.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> The issue is it will only work for the tire size and rim combination it is designed for. That will be a hurdle for the aftermarket community.


They'll come up with something adjustable.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

So back on topic.. seeing that i can get these made to be hydrophobic, would anyone still have issue putting these in their doors?


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

No issue at all.


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## JVD240 (Sep 7, 2009)

Is it hydrophobic forever? Or a some sort of treatment that will degrade?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

JVD240 said:


> Is it hydrophobic forever? Or a some sort of treatment that will degrade?


it seems like a treatment. But it shouldnt degrade as it wont be rubbing on anything. Also, where they will be used shouldnt see any water anyway. But again, some people will feel indifferent regardless.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

If the hydrophobic treatment is applied after it's woven then I'd put it behind the door trim panel but not inside the door.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Truthunter said:


> If the hydrophobic treatment is applied after it's woven then I'd put it behind the door trim panel but not inside the door.


This is exactly what its for. In place of closed cell foam. It is not to be used inside of the door.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

That pricing really isn't bad for the premium PSA backed foam. I like it.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> it seems like a treatment. But it shouldnt degrade as it wont be rubbing on anything. Also, where they will be used shouldnt see any water anyway. But again, some people will feel indifferent regardless.



Not that I live in climates like this but, there are places around that feel "wet" even on a normal day, due to extreme humidity. Louisiana being the one I was at last for a couple weeks. So humid that the floor always felt damp when walking around with socks. Anyway, hydrophobic materials like you're researching may come in handy for places like that. I imagine any material that attracts and holds moisture in such places would really have issues with some of the other materials that are not hydrophobic at all.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

If something is hydrophobic. I assume its pores are sealed and this would be really hard to glue to something else.

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## bnae38 (Oct 3, 2015)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> I've been using Pirelli Cinturato P7's. Extremely quite for a tire.


Ditto, and agree 


Also, nice work Nick! People like you keep this place alive


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> If something is hydrophobic. I assume its pores are sealed and this would be really hard to glue to something else.
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


It has adhesive on the other side. 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

bnae38 said:


> Ditto, and agree
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm warming up the defibulator right now.. 

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## JamesRC (Sep 18, 2017)

I'd be interested. And this stuff helps cuts out road noise above 800 Hx?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

I literally cant wait for the velcro to come out as im at a stop without it.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

JamesRC said:


> I'd be interested. And this stuff helps cuts out road noise above 800 Hx?


Around there is when it would *start*. Wouldnt really do much besides for high frequencies. I wouldnt advertise it to lower road noise out of principal


ToNasty said:


> I literally cant wait for the velcro to come out as im at a stop without it.


Do you need some now? I can get that quickly. Only reason I havent is because I'm focusing on the CLD right now as it's the most important and most difficult. 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> Around there is when it would *start*. Wouldnt really do much besides for high frequencies. I wouldnt advertise it to lower road noise out of principalDo you need some now? I can get that quickly. Only reason I havent is because I'm focusing on the CLD right now as it's the most important and most difficult.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


The velcro yes. The way my truck rear wall is (regular cab) i have to finish doing the sounf proofing to get an accurste measurment for the sub box and amp rack (all 1 peice hardly any room) and i bought the last 10 pieces of velcro from sds but i need more

Literally every 1/4" in this truck counts

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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

I need to order some Velcro too!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

I should have the velcro within the week. Website is still being built so we will have to do it over PM or email. The product is 2 inches wide and comes in 12" strips. Price is $5/foot plus shipping.

EDIT: lengths may change in the future since im not sure which flat rate shipping option will be best yet.


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> I should have the velcro within the week.


epper::rockon::thumbsup::beerchug:


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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Truthunter said:
> 
> 
> > If the hydrophobic treatment is applied after it's woven then I'd put it behind the door trim panel but not inside the door.
> ...


I'm using hydrophobic melamine foam with thinsulate sm600l in my door trim. CCF with MLV inside my doors.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

First batch of CLD samples are arriving tomorrow. There are 3 different models and i already have the test data on all 3. All 3 have a 5mil thick constraining layer.

The first model is 12" x 24" and has 60mil thick butyl. If i go this route these will be about $7.50 each. The purpose of these will mostly be anywhere you want to use deadener aside from outer door skins, roofs, and other extremely large and flat, (aka: important) panels. The other products below will be for where we really need to kill resonance, like outer door skins, roofs, quarter panels, and trunk lids. 

The second is a 7 " x 12" and has 120mil thick butyl. If i go this route these will be about $4.25 each. Composite loss factor testing on these seem to slightly edge out a previous favorite, but as you can see, costs more. 

The third is a 7" x 12" and has a whopping 160mil thick layer of butyl. That translates to 4mm thick, and would be an absolute monster. The test data on it is already done, and beats anything available on the market today that i know of. These wouldnt cost much more than the previous product mentioned, and would be about $5 per piece. For these, again i would only suggest for outer door skins, roofs, trunk lids, etc. So you wouldnt need many for each car. the bulk would be done in the larger sheets. 


Here is composite loss factor testing for the various products i requested, along with a few others that they can offer me. The ones i mentioned about are the 4mm with 0.127mm thick aluminum, 3mm with 0.127mm aluminum, and 1.5mm with 0.127 aluminum. For reference, other good deadeners have a composite loss factor of around 0.3, 0.35. Its rare to see 0.4, and i have never seen one reach 0.5 with the standards these are tested at. The 4mm thick reaches 0.6 at 30 celcius, and the 3mm reaches just over .5 at 30 celcius.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

For doors, besides of course the importance of resonixing capability, the other primary criteria I look at is how well with the product hold up in extreme weather conditions. Meaning, I don't want the material to run when it is 120F outside. 

And would your recommendation be to cut up the product into smaller pieces to cover near 25% or is that testing upcoming either by you or by TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL. Or do we rely on Don's SDS recommendations in the short term. And yes I understand you have your hands full getting this started up but just wanted your high level thoughts. 

Thanks and looking forward to Resonix going live.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dgage said:


> For doors, besides of course the importance of resonixing capability, the other primary criteria I look at is how well with the product hold up in extreme weather conditions. Meaning, I don't want the material to run when it is 120F outside.
> 
> And would your recommendation be to cut up the product into smaller pieces to cover near 25% or is that testing upcoming either by you or by TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL. Or do we rely on Don's SDS recommendations in the short term. And yes I understand you have your hands full getting this started up but just wanted your high level thoughts.
> 
> Thanks and looking forward to Resonix going live.


heat testing will be done. I will not ship a product until it i am fully confident in its abilities in terms of resonance control as well as its ability to withstand heat. That said, i wouldnt suggest cutting into small pieces. I, and testing has found that small pieces, even when placed close to each other, dont really do much.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Another update.. 2" wide vinyl compatible high temperate velcro is here and available to order! 

Unfortunately my website is still being built, so orders will have to be through paypal. If you would like to order some, email ([email protected]) or pm me. There will be a flat rate shipping fee of $8.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> heat testing will be done. I will not ship a product until it i am fully confident in its abilities in terms of resonance control as well as its ability to withstand heat. That said, i wouldnt suggest cutting into small pieces. I, and testing has found that small pieces, even when placed close to each other, dont really do much.


Sounds good. Well my opinion is that I would forego some performance to make sure the product didn't melt. Since I have an old product I installed in my door over 10 years ago that often drips a little bit during the middle of summer, this is my key criteria now.  But if I could get a 4mm CLD sheet to put in the middle of big panels like the door, I'd do it in a heart beat if it holds up to the heat.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> dgage said:
> 
> 
> > For doors, besides of course the importance of resonixing capability, the other primary criteria I look at is how well with the product hold up in extreme weather conditions. Meaning, I don't want the material to run when it is 120F outside.
> ...


Nice, this is my concern too. I had a day where it was 124 degrees outside and I’m sure my (Black) roof panel must have been around 200-210F in direct sunlight. Finding the limits of the CLD panels is important for choosing what will go on my roof.

EDIT: it might even be worth it to sell a special high-temp variant if you find there’s a dampening trade off that might only be worthwhile for climates with extreme heat.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> heat testing will be done. I will not ship a product until it i am fully confident in its abilities in terms of resonance control as well as its ability to withstand heat. That said, i wouldnt suggest cutting into small pieces. I, and testing has found that small pieces, even when placed close to each other, dont really do much.


As Nick mentioned, Chris' (Toostubborn2Fail) testing showed that a single contiguous piece was more effective at damping resonance than the equivalent volume of multiple non-contiguous pieces.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

I just realized i had a few people PM me about the velcro the other day, but i unfortunately cleared a lot of my PM's. If you were interested, shoot me another message.


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## AD Ventium (Mar 22, 2017)

I’m so hype that you’re getting into the sound treatment game easily one of the most respected people on this forum. Always knowledgeable and helpful so definitely a company I will buy for and stand behind.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

AD Ventium said:


> I’m so hype that you’re getting into the sound treatment game easily one of the most respected people on this forum. Always knowledgeable and helpful so definitely a company I will buy for and stand behind.


Thanks man!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Wow...that 4mm version weighs in at 1.4 pounds per square foot...more then MLV !!!
Of course no one is going to need full coverage of it for it to be effective at resonance control!!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

seafish said:


> Wow...that 4mm version weighs in at 1.4 pounds per square foot...more then MLV !!!
> Of course no one is going to need full coverage of it for it to be effective at resonance control!!


Yeah, the stuff is no joke. I'll have samples of it in hand tomorrow


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## vwguy383 (Dec 4, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> More good news, I have access to everyones favorite vinyl compatible velcro. That will be part of our offerings.


If I may ask. Because I have never installed it. Why do you guys always use Velcro? Is it just so it can be removed? Why not just use a heavy duty double sticky foam style tape? When I think of Velcro I think of something that I want to take on and off a lot or repeatedly.

Thanks


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

vwguy383 said:


> If I may ask. Because I have never installed it. Why do you guys always use Velcro? Is it just so it can be removed? Why not just use a heavy duty double sticky foam style tape? When I think of Velcro I think of something that I want to take on and off a lot or repeatedly.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


To hang mlv and some foams, and the serviceability is a bonus. Double sided tape will 

1) not be serviceable. 
2) 1 time use 
3) wont even work. Mlv is very tricky to adhere to. 

Bonus: velcro has a million and one uses in car audio

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> Bonus: velcro has a million and one uses in car audio


The Velcro is amazing. Stronger than anything you can normally buy. I’m glad Nick has the hookup.


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## 04quadcab (Dec 31, 2017)

About that velcro. I need some more, and I may need it ASAP. Will heavy duty velcro from Lowes/Home Depot work or was the stuff that SDS sold somehow different?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

04quadcab said:


> About that velcro. I need some more, and I may need it ASAP. Will heavy duty velcro from Lowes/Home Depot work or was the stuff that SDS sold somehow different?


I have some from sds still not used. Which im going ti ise and it was far superior to any other velcro ive found


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

04quadcab said:


> About that velcro. I need some more, and I may need it ASAP. Will heavy duty velcro from Lowes/Home Depot work or was the stuff that SDS sold somehow different?


the stuff that they sold and i now sell has a different adhesive than what is sold in stores. It is only sold in bulk by distributors from what i can tell.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Samples are here, and in house testing begins now 






























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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> Samples are here, and in house testing begins now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is thick! And stop biting your nails please

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ToNasty said:


> That is thick! And stop biting your nails please
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


That's mostly from digging around car interiors lol

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Im interested to see how it does tested, specifically if that thickness has huge diminishing return vs the lighter less thick version

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Im interested to see how it does tested, specifically if that thickness has huge diminishing return vs the lighter less thick version
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


the testing for the various thicknesses was already provided with much more appropriate testing. I probably wont bother with that.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Tested how?

I feel like once you find a good source of butyl(doesn't melt in heat. Good thermoelastic properties, ect) and a good source of aluminum..which cant be hard. 

Then simple resonance/heat testing can be done with. 

1mil butly/1mil aluminum.
2mil butyl/ 1mil aluminum
2mil butyl/ 1 mil aluminum

And that kind of testing until you find a sweet spot for diminishing returns. Then Woohoo. Awesome product.

Or did u do that already? 

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Tested how?


To standards much higher than what anyone on this forum could hope to achieve. read through the thread and you will see it mentioned. Or just do some googling on Composite Loss Factor testing





Jscoyne2 said:


> I feel like once you find a good source of butyl(doesn't melt in heat. Good thermoelastic properties, ect) and a good source of aluminum..which cant be hard.


that last part.. Ha.. HAHA. HAHAHAHA :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

Real talk, ive been spending half of my days for the past 3 or 4 weeks looking for a good manufacturer that doesnt need a guaranteed million dollars in purchasing for the first year. Thats not an exaggeration. I'm still looking. If its easy, find me a good one and i will make it worth your while.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> To standards much higher than what anyone on this forum could hope to achieve. read through the thread and you will see it mentioned. Or just do some googling on Composite Loss Factor testing
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeaa. Tooling, maintenance, labor cost, ect is never cheap. So small investments don't interest them. Sorry you're having troubles.

Stupid question. Is it viable to do it yourself? What kind of machinery goes into making that stuff

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Yeaa. Tooling, maintenance, labor cost, ect is never cheap. So small investments don't interest them. Sorry you're having troubles.
> 
> Stupid question. Is it viable to do it yourself? What kind of machinery goes into making that stuff
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


Put it this way.. The companies that manufacture these products do sales in the half billion or more per year range. Theres not a shot in holy hell that a person could do this on their own. 

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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> Put it this way..Theres not a shot in holy hell that a person could do this on their own.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Well not with THAT attitude mister! :laugh:

Really hoping that this all comes together for you Nick


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

testing done. It was good, but nothing to crazy. On to the next.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Put it this way.. The companies that manufacture these products do sales in the half billion or more per year range. Theres not a shot in holy hell that a person could do this on their own.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


"I've got a bathtub, blowtorch, and a few old tires.

I mean, how hard can making some butyl rubber be?"

/s

I have high-temp polymer chemists who work in aerospace in the family. I know the answer. :laugh:


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Got my resonix velcro order


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Just got some more CLD samples today. has a very familiar feel to it. Seems very promising. I should have pricing on it tomorrow night.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

ToNasty said:


> Got my resonix velcro order


What the heck type of review was that? Geez man!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

dgage said:


> What the heck type of review was that? Geez man!


Its sticky? Want more?

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

lol. yeah man, you gotta tell em how much better the super strong velcro makes your system sound. how it makes it fuzzy, but also leaves you gripped to your seat wanting to listen to more...


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Did the bass tighten up any?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

dgage said:


> Did the bass tighten up any?


The transducer points of the fluxuation curve have greatly improved

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## ManBearPig (Jul 18, 2016)

Any updates on the cld?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ManBearPig said:


> Any updates on the cld?


Still waiting for pricing and a blank panel to try the current samples on.

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Testing out some prototype materials today. Im happy so far. For the CLD, we testing the 4mil aluminum 1lb/sq foot sample (i forget the thickness of the butyl). This stuff is pretty stiff and after applying it to the hatch of the Tesla Model S, i can tell its definitely a contender. Just waiting till i get the samples with the 8mil aluminum now, along with pricing. The other stuff is the same fiber material i talked about earlier in this thread. We used it on some of the plastic panels to decouple them. Funny enough, Tesla also uses the same stuff right from the factory. the Black hydrophobic layer material is theirs, the white layer is ours and has the hydrophobic coating directly on it.


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

What will thicker aluminum accomplish?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> What will thicker aluminum accomplish?


All things being equal, a stronger constraining layer will yield higher (better) composite loss factor. aka, it'll damp resonance better.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Nick, I know you probably aren't taking requests atm... but anyways. Lol

I would love a product that is a *single layer*, all-in-one type sound deadening treatment that included multiple layers (of cld + whatever + that other stuff) and a peel-n-stick backing.

I know that the best results come from the known cld, ccf, mlv sandwich, but I'm not always willing to go all out and do that anymore because it's a royal pain the ass and in some cases/places impossible. I realize there would be some compromise, but I would pay good money (and settle) for a one sheet product that gives me decent performance.

I.E. Take Soundskins and SonicBarriers concepts and add a thin layer of mlv (or something that functions similarly) and another thin layer of foam or felt so the mlv doesn't vibrate against panels. Done. 

From a sales and marketing stand point this kind of product makes a lot of sense, but I am not a scientific kinda guy so I can't comment on that...


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Nick, I know you probably aren't taking requests atm... but anyways. Lol
> 
> I would love a product that is a *single layer*, all-in-one type sound deadening treatment that included multiple layers (of cld + whatever + that other stuff) and a peel-n-stick backing.
> 
> ...


+1
Something like this would be perfect in my pickup. It's not my daily driver so I'm not going to go all out trying to quiet it but a "better than nothing" or a little better solution that is a one step process would be an easy call.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

^^^IMO The one problem with an all in one "sandwich" type product is its final thickness that makes it difficult to use in many applications, particularly doors.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> +1
> Something like this would be perfect in my pickup. It's not my daily driver so I'm not going to go all out trying to quiet it but a "better than nothing" or a little better solution that is a one step process would be an easy call.


Exactly. We would accept that it isn't as good as going all out with multiple layers of the best products, but it IS a definite, and noticeable improvement over nothing. 

I might get verbally stoned to death for saying this, but I don't really believe that the full treatment is as effective as we'd like to think anyways... Not because the products and process in itself isn't effective, but simply because of the fact that a car is a car. We can only treat to a point, and there are all kinds of limitations to the amount and placement of that treatment. 

Take a car door - the most you can do is "fill" the door on both side with whatever treatments will fit, and ONLY within the boundaries of the door panels edges, working around electronics, and all the odd shapes and openings. You can NOT treat the glass, the remainder of the door, the weather seals, the roof to some extent, the engine and tire noise itself, etc.. Even if you do a perfect, full 3+ layer treatment, you can't even cover 50% of the car's total shell!



seafish said:


> ^^^IMO The one problem with an all in one "sandwich" type product is its final thickness that makes it difficult to use in many applications, particularly doors.


I totally agree, and of course it would be important to develop a product like that with the thinnest possible materials...


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Heres the problem.. most manufacturers who make a cld that is halfway decent, doesnt manufacture or mess with foam. The manufacturer (note how it was singular) that makes an "all in one" product doesnt make anything good. It's cheap and performs pathetically and doesnt hold up well to heat. Other reason is why waste money on a 2in1 product where you dont need both, like outer door skins. 

Trust me, no worth it. It's not as special as it seems

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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Heres the problem.. most manufacturers who make a cld that is halfway decent, doesnt manufacture or mess with foam. The manufacturer (note how it was singular) that makes an "all in one" product doesnt make anything good. It's cheap and performs pathetically and doesnt hold up well to heat. Other reason is why waste money on a 2in1 product where you dont need both, like outer door skins.
> 
> Trust me, no worth it. It's not as special as it seems
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


I’m not in that business but I know how special production line stuff goes. If they’re not already producing it in volume it’ll be EXPENSIVE to have multiple additional processing stages to layer the stuff. Unless Skizer suddenly found the investment to do a $2mm initial order it’ll be prohibitively expensive to the point where you will not want to buy it.

Maybe eventually it can be a thing, but for now I’m happy with good quality CLD.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

SkizeR said:


> Heres the problem.. most manufacturers who make a cld that is halfway decent, doesnt manufacture or mess with foam. The manufacturer (note how it was singular) that makes an "all in one" product doesnt make anything good. It's cheap and performs pathetically and doesnt hold up well to heat. Other reason is why waste money on a 2in1 product where you dont need both, like outer door skins.
> 
> Trust me, no worth it. It's not as special as it seems
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk





In addition, it makes no sense to produce a product like that because you simply can't install it effectively. How does one ensure perfect adhesion with the base CLD layer when you have a stiff MLV on top, and a squishy foam on top of that? Doesnt work. What about gaps and odd shaped areas? You either wouldn't have total coverage with gaps (not good for MLV application) or you are trying to cut pieces where youd have to apply over the top foam layer which doesn't work. 

While an all-in-one solution may sound nice, it's simply not realistic from an application/installation standpoint. Even IF it could be produced, it would make no sense to use it.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

captainobvious said:


> In addition, it makes no sense to produce a product like that because you simply can't install it effectively. How does one ensure perfect adhesion with the base CLD layer when you have a stiff MLV on top, and a squishy foam on top of that? Doesnt work. What about gaps and odd shaped areas? You either wouldn't have total coverage with gaps (not good for MLV application) or you are trying to cut pieces where youd have to apply over the top foam layer which doesn't work.
> 
> While an all-in-one solution may sound nice, it's simply not realistic from an application/installation standpoint. Even IF it could be produced, it would make no sense to use it.


People want easy. For my products, easy install isn't the most important factor. Performance is 

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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

You need to hurry up and get this stuff done and ready to ship...I am impatiently waiting to send you my money for some good quality sound deadener at a good price 

In all seriousness, I am excited that you are taking this much time on getting this stuff right and your pricing so far seems very competitive.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

captainobvious said:


> In addition, it makes no sense to produce a product like that because you simply can't install it effectively. How does one ensure perfect adhesion with the base CLD layer when you have a stiff MLV on top, and a squishy foam on top of that? Doesnt work. What about gaps and odd shaped areas? You either wouldn't have total coverage with gaps (not good for MLV application) or you are trying to cut pieces where youd have to apply over the top foam layer which doesn't work.
> 
> While an all-in-one solution may sound nice, it's simply not realistic from an application/installation standpoint. Even IF it could be produced, it would make no sense to use it.


That is why you substitute lead sheets for the MLV in the composite products. Better workability. Added bonus, internet trolls' heads explode. 

Seriously, though... skip the all in one solutions.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Exciting update! Just got back pricing on the CLD i posted above. After using it for a bit, im damn confident in its resonance control abilities, but i still need to test its heat resistance (which i have confidence in considering certain factors). The good news is pricing can remain around $5 per square foot for the heavy duty version! will have pricing on the "standard" version tomorrow but im guessing price would be under $3 per square foot. Im 90% sure this will be my product, i just need to get it independently objectively tested.


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Exciting update! Just got back pricing on the CLD i posted above. After using it for a bit, im damn confident in its resonance control abilities, but i still need to test its heat resistance (which i have confidence in considering certain factors). The good news is pricing can remain around $5 per square foot for the heavy duty version! will have pricing on the "standard" version tomorrow but im guessing price would be under $3 per square foot. Im 90% sure this will be my product, i just need to get it independently objectively tested.


Hell yeah, nice work


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

the only problem is a problem that effects only me, and not the end users.. minimum order quantity is a bit more than expected but no biggie


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Need some opinions. I have the option to do 12" x 12" squares, or 12" x 6" rectangles, or anywhere in between for the thicker CLD product. would you guys prefer 12" x 12" squares? or rectangles? 

Before you answer, here are things to consider.. 12x6 is still not an optimal size as found in chris's previous cld testing. also, 12x6 would yield a higher price per square foot. Not much, but still a bit higher.


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## AD Ventium (Mar 22, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> Need some opinions. I have the option to do 12" x 12" squares, or 12" x 6" rectangles, or anywhere in between for the thicker CLD product. would you guys prefer 12" x 12" squares? or rectangles?
> 
> Before you answer, here are things to consider.. 12x6 is still not an optimal size as found in chris's previous cld testing. also, 12x6 would yield a higher price per square foot. Not much, but still a bit higher.


I believe that 12x12 would most likely be for the best especially with the way you want your cld offering to be a no compromise product. But whatever you decide on I know it’ll be the right choice.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

The good thing about 12x12 is that you can always cut it. the not so nice question im really trying to ask is.. how lazy are you guys? lol


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Not lazy at all. Bigger sheets would make it easier but 12x12 seems to be the norm


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I vote 12x12.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

12 x 12 tiles and we can cut it ourselves as necessary.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Sounds good. I may have product pretty soon  

Might do a presale. Still debating. I can most likely get product before Chris's testing is able to start and I definitely dont want to pull the trigger without some form of objective testing. I may go to a junkyard and get some doors and do some testing myself. I cant imagine finding a better product for a better price unless I spend over literally a million dollars on R&D and an initial order. I think finding the previous leaders product is a longshot considering the little piece of information I heard this past week, so I think this option is the best bet. 

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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I vote 12x12 because my tin snips can cut anything and i’m not lazy. 

I loved the thick CLD tiles from SDS and they where subjectively the best in my tests with all the samples I acquired back in 2013. If your product is at least as good as SDS was than I’m in. I’ve got a project in the works very soon that needs a high quality CLD sound deadener product.


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## Derek_PNW (Mar 5, 2019)

Just want to say I'll be an instant customer. I'm a complete novice who's soundproofing a personal vehicle for the first time, and had a mild nervous breakdown after SDS shuttered before I could place my order.

One thing I'd like to recommend is to not forget about the novice weekend warriors with zero experience. Spelling everything out so we can make an informed decision will draw in customers and no doubt save you countless hours answering questions. For example, the SDS section that gave quantity recommendations based on year/make/model was a HUGE help to me, and I'll be using those numbers when I purchase from you.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Derek_PNW said:


> Just want to say I'll be an instant customer. I'm a complete novice who's soundproofing a personal vehicle for the first time, and had a mild nervous breakdown after SDS shuttered before I could place my order.


LOL....you're gonna fit right in here!!!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

12x12 or the largest uncut option, simply because you never know what you're going to need to cover. Cutting deadener up to fit the intended location is part of the process, so it doesn't matter if it is 12x6 or 12x12, you'll still need to cut. Might as well start with the biggest piece. IMO.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Also note that shipping prices may be affected by the difference is size. It may be small but for some it may matter. Just a thought!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

V8toilet said:


> Also note that shipping prices may be affected by the difference is size. It may be small but for some it may matter. Just a thought!


Good point...but there is a USPS Flat Rate box in Medium size that is:

14" x 12" x 3 1/2"


And a Flat rate large size that is:

12 1/4" x 12 1/4" x 6"


Medium boxes are $12.80 delivered anywhere in the US
Large boxes are $17.60 ditto

Of course all that info is assuming that Nick would want to ship USPS flat rate!!!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

honestly, i'd probably ship them in the boxes they come in. just slap the label on the bottom. Its CLD after all, its not like its going to break in shipping lol


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Derek_PNW said:


> Just want to say I'll be an instant customer. I'm a complete novice who's soundproofing a personal vehicle for the first time, and had a mild nervous breakdown after SDS shuttered before I could place my order.
> 
> One thing I'd like to recommend is to not forget about the novice weekend warriors with zero experience. Spelling everything out so we can make an informed decision will draw in customers and no doubt save you countless hours answering questions. For example, the SDS section that gave quantity recommendations based on year/make/model was a HUGE help to me, and I'll be using those numbers when I purchase from you.


dont worry, the website will be as helpful as possible. the point of this venture is for a little bit of side cash with not much needed effort after everything is figured out. All of the effort will be put in before product is for sale (like right now) and pretty much any possible question will have a link. Deadening is easy. Nothing about it is complicated, but it isnt something that everyone just knows how to do and what to use. I will make sure itll be extremely thorough but to the point. I plan on having my 2 brothers and a few friends who all know jack **** about car audio read the site for 30 mins or so and tell me if they understand how to properly deaden a car.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

seafish said:


> Good point...but there is a USPS Flat Rate box in Medium size that is:
> 
> 14" x 12" x 3 1/2"
> 
> ...


AGREE 100%.

The USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Boxes are an advantage because the Rate is NOT based on WEIGHT, so heavy contents (like stacks of CLD sheets) will ship at the same rate regardless of weight. They also automatically include $50 Insurance.

For the MEDIUM Flat Rate Boxes there are TWO SHAPES available.

*INSIDE Dimensions:*

Medium FRB #1: 11" x 8-1/2" x 5-1/2"
Medium FRB #2: 13-5/8" x 11-7/8" x 3-3/8"

Large FRB: 12" x 12" x 5-1/2"

But yeah, I'm not sure if Nick likes dealing with the U.S.P.S.? For my semi-rural area, it's the best shipping rate (and fastest, too) for 90% of the things I've shipped. And I have FedEx & UPS discounted Commercial accounts as well.


ANYWAY...I'm really looking forward to what *SkizeR* can come up with!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

fourthmeal said:


> 12x12 or the largest uncut option, simply because you never know what you're going to need to cover. Cutting deadener up to fit the intended location is part of the process, so it doesn't matter if it is 12x6 or 12x12, you'll still need to cut. Might as well start with the biggest piece. IMO.


the good thing about 12 x 6 is that they fit on the outer door skins between crash bars without any cutting 95% of the time. these tiles are purely designed for the outer door skin, head liner, and other large flat areas like quarter panels and trunk lids. everything else is generally pretty strong already and we will have a thinner but larger version (butly and aluminum half as thick) that is 18" x 36". this will be recommended for inner door skins and patching large holes, floors, rear decks, etc.. unless you really want your car _dead_


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

If I were you I’d calculate some imaginary orders and calculate the shipping prices for flat rate versus the next cheapest non-flat rate carrier. If the difference is substantial it should weigh into your decision.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> fourthmeal said:
> 
> 
> > 12x12 or the largest uncut option, simply because you never know what you're going to need to cover. Cutting deadener up to fit the intended location is part of the process, so it doesn't matter if it is 12x6 or 12x12, you'll still need to cut. Might as well start with the biggest piece. IMO.
> ...


12x13 would be best because again it can just be cut. Ill be the first order as my doors need more and im not going to double deadener so once again im waiting on you ?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> the good thing about 12 x 6 is that they fit on the outer door skins between crash bars without any cutting 95% of the time. these tiles are purely designed for the outer door skin, head liner, and other large flat areas like quarter panels and trunk lids. everything else is generally pretty strong already and we will have a thinner but larger version (butly and aluminum half as thick) that is 18" x 36". this will be recommended for inner door skins and patching large holes, floors, rear decks, etc.. unless you really want your car _dead_


I would vote 12x6 as that is the about the size I usually have to cut down to...


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Nick,

I’m sure you’ve examined the competition, but here’s some food for thought.

Dynamat has been around for a while, and I’m sure they’ve put some thought into the most cost effective way to ship the CLD, while still giving the most coverage options.

One of their most popular kits, the “Xtreme Door Kit” (10435), ships with Four 12" x 36" sheets folded in thirds to fit in a 14.8 x 12 x 4 inches package weighing 6.4 pounds. Just wanted to throw this information out there which supports a 12x12 or 12x larger sheet size.

I’m definitely excited to check out your new offerings, and kudos for the very competitive pricing.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Chris12 said:


> Nick,
> 
> I’m sure you’ve examined the competition, but here’s some food for thought.
> 
> ...


Folding the product is a bad idea. It stretches and deforms the butyl and adhesive. This compromises effectiveness in that area. It may be a small area, but the way CLD works means that any break in effectiveness causes the piece to act as two pieces, which is exponentially less effective.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> I would vote 12x6 as that is the about the size I usually have to cut down to...


The only problem is, if you ever need a larger coverage than 12x6 (say for a car roof), you've thrown away effectiveness be handicapping your original size.

Testing has shown that two smaller pieces of equal coverage area perform exponentially worse than one large piece.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Folding the product is a bad idea. It stretches and deforms the butyl and adhesive. This compromises effectiveness in that area. It may be a small area, but the way CLD works means that any break in effectiveness causes the piece to act as two pieces, which is exponentially less effective.


Damn.

Once again (I’ve had similar CLD realizations) this makes sense, but I would’ve never thought of this on my own.

Thanks for the information.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

EDIT:


Looks like shipping size/weight has been considered.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Chris12 said:
> 
> 
> > Nick,
> ...


This is true! Sky high car audio folds their deadener when they send it. Idiots!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

guys, 12x6 or 12x12 wont make much of a difference in shipping costs. fedex (which is what i will most likely use, as ive had terrible luck with usps) goes by cubic feet x weight for the most part. itll come out to about the same. im not going to stress over a dollar or so on shipping, ya know? im more so concerned about what will perform the best, which seems to be 12x12 (which we already have boxes for anyways)


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Oh, ps.. im currently building a testing rig like chris's old one while hes gearing up for his new test


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> guys, 12x6 or 12x12 wont make much of a difference in shipping costs. fedex (which is what i will most likely use, as ive had terrible luck with usps) goes by cubic feet x weight for the most part. itll come out to about the same. im not going to stress over a dollar or so on shipping, ya know? im more so concerned about what will perform the best, which seems to be 12x12 (which we already have boxes for anyways)


12x12 is my vote. Im ready to order some 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

12 x 12 please. As someone mentioned earlier - we're cutting the stuff anyway. And it makes it really easy to calculate square footage.


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## dlmax (Mar 15, 2019)

My vote is for 12" x 12" also. Cutting when needed is no big deal, but you can't grow them larger for large panels. Unless there is an appreciable difference in price, going smaller just doesn't make much sense.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rough testing done. Lets just say i'll be moving forward with this prototype/sample/whatever you wanna call it if it does well in heat testing.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Once i get heat testing done, i will get the website finished an open preorders. Lead time is between 3-4 weeks from the manufacturer.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)




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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

sorry mom..











currently have the heat set to 350 and started at 10:55am. If neither product fails within an hour, i will bump it to 450.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

My wife has definitely been upset at me for vacuum forming in her oven!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

1 hour at 350 down. Bumped up to 450. going to go for another hour. If it doesnt fail, im moving forward with this product.


PS, some of the previous leaders product is on the back side of the metal. If that fails and my sample does not, that will also be an indicator that i should move forward since i have never heard of SDS failing from heat in a car.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> sorry mom..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lol, that's awesome! How's the smell?!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Lol, that's awesome! How's the smell?!


believe it or not, it doesnt smell at all. which, i guess is believable since there are no asphalt bases products in either of the CLD's currently in the oven that my father has just now questioned for the 4th time lol

"wait, so tell me again why you need to bake sound stuff in our oven?"


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> believe it or not, it doesnt smell at all. which, i guess is believable since there are no asphalt bases products in either of the CLD's currently in the oven that my father has just now questioned for the 4th time lol
> 
> 
> 
> "wait, so tell me again why you need to bake sound stuff in our oven?"


Because jesus told me to

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

both havent failed yet. upped it to 550. i really dont want to stop until i know when these products will fail. if this doesnt do it, i might just up it to the "clean" setting lol


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> both havent failed yet. upped it to 550. i really dont want to stop until i know when these products will fail. if this doesnt do it, i might just up it to the "clean" setting lol


Make me some cheese toast while youre at it

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Aren't you well past the the point of limited returns now. What are the chances of a car even hitting 350 if you're parked in Death Valley in August?

Of course if you're just doing it for science that's a different story altogether.


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

Dan750iL said:


> Aren't you well past the the point of limited returns now. What are the chances of a car even hitting 350 if you're parked in Death Valley in August?
> 
> Of course if you're just doing it for science that's a different story altogether.


In phoenix, interiors max out around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I am guessing the exterior panels get above that. I will have to measure my black truck this summer and see.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> Aren't you well past the the point of limited returns now. What are the chances of a car even hitting 350 if you're parked in Death Valley in August?
> 
> Of course if you're just doing it for science that's a different story altogether.


its already in the oven. might as well just keep going for the sake of having the information, ya know? if it doesnt fail in an hour at 350, then an hour at 450, then another hour at 550, thats more impressive than being able to say "it didnt fail at 350 for an hour". Not like im going to use this as any sort of marketing material, this is just so i know i wont have any failing products in customers cars unless they didnt install it right.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

1 hour at 350, 1 hour at 450, and 15 mins at 550... lol


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## Only the best (Mar 20, 2013)

SkizeR said:


> its already in the oven. might as well just keep going for the sake of having the information, ya know? if it doesnt fail in an hour at 350, then an hour at 450, then another hour at 550, thats more impressive than being able to say "it didnt fail at 350 for an hour". Not like im going to use this as any sort of marketing material, this is just so i know i wont have any failing products in customers cars unless they didnt install it right.


stupid proof. or so you think


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> 1 hour at 350, 1 hour at 450, and 15 mins at 550... lol


Is it hot in the house now?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Only the best said:


> stupid proof. or so you think


yeah, i guess lol



EmptyKim said:


> Is it hot in the house now?


nope. you telling me i should turn it up?


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> nope. you telling me i should turn it up?


SELF CLEAN MODE COMMENCE!

Disclaimer: I am not responsible if a fire commences also....


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> SELF CLEAN MODE COMMENCE!
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I am not responsible if a fire commences also....


Dont tempt me lol









Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> Dont tempt me lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

LOL!!!

WTF have you done to your Moms oven??

Is that also a SPEAKER I see on the top rack??


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, for that matter, slap some cheese and broccoli on it and make a casserole!!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Yup, no failure at 350 for 1 hour, 450 for 1 hour, or 550 for 1 hour. Proceeding with this product in 12" x 12" with 4mil foil and 100mil butyl, as well as an economy version that is 18" x 36" with 3 mil foil and 50 mil butyl. This testing is by no means "scientific", but was enough to show me that it does a damn good job at resonance control, and will definitely hold up to heat in a car. I will open pre-ordering soon once i get the site ready  Whos in for a preorder?!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

seafish said:


> LOL!!!
> 
> WTF have you done to your Moms oven??
> 
> Is that also a SPEAKER I see on the top rack??


umm, i uh.. may have ran out of storage in my room, basement, garage, and shop. resorted to the oven 

nah, idk what the heck that thing is. That said about storage, there just so happens to be storage space available in the next building over from the shop that is relatively inexpensive. that solves my "where the hell do i put 6 pallets" problem


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Now that the heat testing is complete, let the panel cool, slap it back in the test rig and see how it performs. :laugh:


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rton20s said:


> Now that the heat testing is complete, let the panel cool, slap it back in the test rig and see how it performs. :laugh:


****. i should have. i peeled both off already :/

_*cups hand around mouth and faces towards my bedroom door*_ "HEY MA! NEED TO USE THE OVEN AGAIN."


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> ****. i should have. i peeled both off already :/


"Hey mom... I need to use the oven again."


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

rton20s said:


> "Hey mom... I need to use the oven again."


see my edit.. beat you to it lol


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> see my edit.. beat you to it lol


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

and just got a shipment of the samples for the 18" x 36" pieces. same stuff, just more coverage and 50 mil butyl instead of 100, and 3 mil aluminum instead of 4


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> and just got a shipment of the samples for the 18" x 36" pieces. same stuff, just more coverage and 50 mil butyl instead of 100, and 3 mil aluminum instead of 4


Since this is the stuff you are moving forward with, can you recap the final choices and prices (if you have them).

I am not sure if this is the same stuff you listed pricing for earlier. 

Also could you list again where the 3mil would be used compared to the 4mil...I know it is in one of the 11 pages but would be nice to have it all in one place with prices.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> Since this is the stuff you are moving forward with, can you recap the final choices and prices (if you have them).
> 
> I am not sure if this is the same stuff you listed pricing for earlier.
> 
> Also could you list again where the 3mil would be used compared to the 4mil...I know it is in one of the 11 pages but would be nice to have it all in one place with prices.


Good idea. So first things first, these arent the final prices, but merely estimates. these could be 100% accurate, or it could change. I am not sure yet.

CLD Squares - 12" x 12" "squares" of 100 mil thick butyl and 4 mil thick aluminum Constrained Layer Damper. This is recommended for outer door skins, roofs, trunk lids, rear decks, quarter panels, etc. anywhere there is a long, flat, and resonant panel this is what you want. This will be priced at around $5.50 per piece, aka $5.50 per square foot.

CLD Rectangles (creative, i know) - 18" x 32" rectangles of 50 mil thick butyl, and 3 mil thick aluminum Constrained Layer Damper. This is recommended for panels that arent very resonant but you still want to attack structure borne vibration. It is also good to use for covering large holes on the inner door skin. This is what i do at the shop. we use the previous leaders thinner yet larger stuff and then place one of the better pieces over it. works great and can always cut it out/reapply if you really need to get inside of the door. Each sheet will be about $11, aka $2.75 per square foot

Vinyl Compatible, Industrial Strength Velcro - the same stuff you know from the previous leading brand. 2" wide, selling it by the foot. $5.50 per foot. 



In the future i plan on having CCF, poly fiber mat, butyl rope, and maybe a few other things.


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

Nice! I like these prices. I will probably be in for a pre-order (maybe just a regular order depending on when the wife agrees to when I can actually spend the money)

When do you think you will have the CCF, Poly Fiber and Butyl Rope? Obviously you were testing some of these things so I assume fairly soon but maybe it is longer than I am thinking.

Any plans for MLV or Sheet Lead in the near future?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> Nice! I like these prices. I will probably be in for a pre-order (maybe just a regular order depending on when the wife agrees to when I can actually spend the money)
> 
> When do you think you will have the CCF, Poly Fiber and Butyl Rope? Obviously you were testing some of these things so I assume fairly soon but maybe it is longer than I am thinking.
> 
> Any plans for MLV or Sheet Lead in the near future?


ccf i can actually probably get before the cld. thats already figured out as foam is much easier to do. I figured out all of that about 3 weeks ago. Its a semi-closed cell foam, meaning it is closed cell foam that is rolled and some of the cells are popped. It doesnt inherently absorb moisture, but it will absorb water if provoked. Meaning, if you squeeze it and hold it under water and let go, itll kinda hold onto some of it. Im 100% confident that it is fine for anywhere you would use closed cell foam in a car. The one thing that i think all closed cell foams need improvement on is how not so soft they are. A decoupler is supposed to cushion. That said, i found a great foam for the job, and it would be 10mm thick, 54" wide, high end peel and stick adhesive backed, and come out to about $3 per square foot, aka about $40 per linear yard, or $35 per linear yard with a standard peel and stick adhesive. This is a good amount more than what you can get a cheap closed cell foam for, but i dont think those foams that are kinda hard and are 1/8" thick do a damn thing unless your using them very strategically.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I need to deal with some noise control in my boat, specifically around the engine bay and engine motor cover. I know this product is more for structure born noise but do you think it would help? The engine cover and structure is all fiberglass. The boat has a stern drive so basically the motor is inside the boat with outdrive outside the boat (Alpha 1). Since this passed your oven test :laugh: I would think it would be Kosher with some minor engine heat.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

V8toilet said:


> I need to deal with some noise control in my boat, specifically around the engine bay and engine motor cover. I know this product is more for structure born noise but do you think it would help? The engine cover and structure is all fiberglass. The boat has a stern drive so basically the motor is inside the boat with outdrive outside the boat (Alpha 1). Since this passed your oven test  I would think it would be Kosher with some minor engine heat.


The motor on our boat (MasterCraft ski boat) has some thick insulation type stuff attached to the engine cover. It's probably 2-4in thick. I'd be looking for similar materials for your issue.



Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

V8toilet said:


> I need to deal with some noise control in my boat, specifically around the engine bay and engine motor cover. I know this product is more for structure born noise but do you think it would help? The engine cover and structure is all fiberglass. The boat has a stern drive so basically the motor is inside the boat with outdrive outside the boat (Alpha 1). Since this passed your oven test  I would think it would be Kosher with some minor engine heat.


I'm sure it wouldnt hurt, but it would probably be pretty inefficient 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> That said, i found a great foam for the job, and it would be 10mm thick


So 10mm thick foam coupled with 1/8" MLV and CLD adding a little extra on the inside of the door....Will it all fit? 

I know you said the 10mm compresses nicely, but does it compress to the same as the 1/8" CCF?

The reason I ask is I once tried using luxury liner pro inside the door on my old truck and that was definitely not going to work due to thickness. And that checks in around 3/8" or 9.5mm total.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> So 10mm thick foam coupled with 1/8" MLV and CLD adding a little extra on the inside of the door....Will it all fit?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sp that's what's different about this stuff. Itll compress down to somewhere lower than 1/32 of an inch no problem, meanwhile the typical 1/8 inch ensolite foams will do about the same but take much more force to do so. The point of it is to make more contact and a better cushion while being easier to fit and install

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> Sp that's what's different about this stuff. Itll compress down to somewhere lower than 1/32 of an inch no problem, meanwhile the typical 1/8 inch ensolite foams will do about the same but take much more force to do so. The point of it is to make more contact and a better cushion while being easier to fit and install
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Well then thanks for adding another $100 to my sound deadening expense......

I can see this conversation with my wife now....Hey honey I am going to spend around $1000 on sound deadening for the truck....is that cool with you?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> Well then thanks for adding another $100 to my sound deadening expense......
> 
> 
> 
> I can see this conversation with my wife now....Hey honey I am going to spend around $1000 on sound deadening for the truck....is that cool with you?


Or just dont tell her 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Im thinking this might help. To do the inside on the inner door skin in my truck. The doors are fully deadened but i have a slight rattleon lower notes by the door latch assembly.


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

Haha...unfortunately we do the Dave Ramsey stuff (It’s why I took some years off from this site and car audio) so we talk before every month about everything we are spending in the upcoming month that isn’t our fun money allowance...and it would take me a year to save up enough fun money ?

But we are debt free besides our house and have some amazing communication skills in our relationship now so it’s 100% worth it....I just might have to buy sound deadening in stages....


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

jdunk54nl said:


> Haha...unfortunately we do the Dave Ramsey stuff (It’s why I took some years off from this site and car audio) so we talk before every month about everything we are spending in the upcoming month that isn’t our fun money allowance...and it would take me a year to save up enough fun money ?
> 
> But we are debt free besides our house and have some amazing communication skills in our relationship now so it’s 100% worth it....I just might have to buy sound deadening in stages....


Sounds really nice and friendly. 

My wife and I have our own accounts and after all the bills are paid, we have out own "don't ask, don't tell" money... But don't take my advise cuz this is my 3rd failing marriage! Lol


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

ToNasty said:


> Im thinking this might help. To do the inside on the inner door skin in my truck. The doors are fully deadened but i have a slight rattleon lower notes by the door latch assembly.


Butyl rubber rope around the mechanism links is likely what is going to fix that.

And now that I mention it (lol), I gotta wonder if Nick is going to source that too for one stop shipping, eh??


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

seafish said:


> ToNasty said:
> 
> 
> > Im thinking this might help. To do the inside on the inner door skin in my truck. The doors are fully deadened but i have a slight rattleon lower notes by the door latch assembly.
> ...


I thought of that to. .eans i have to cut out some of my deadener just to get to it. But oh well it must be done


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

seafish said:


> Butyl rubber rope around the mechanism links is likely what is going to fix that.
> 
> And now that I mention it (lol), I gotta wonder if Nick is going to source that too for one stop shipping, eh??


soon. just focusing on the CLD for now, then the poly mat and closed cell foam, then butyl rope.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Jscoyne2 said:


> The motor on our boat (MasterCraft ski boat) has some thick insulation type stuff attached to the engine cover. It's probably 2-4in thick. I'd be looking for similar materials for your issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


That looks like an OE special order version of Bonded Logic's Radiant Barrier. Seems they used a thicker version of the recycled denim insulation with the aluminum reinforced foil face. You can purchase the standard 3/8" version through Summit under the Tru-Max brand. https://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Tru-Max/

Perhaps a combination of this and MLV will work for your boat V8Toilet.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Summit Racing, good find. I used to buy from them years ago when I built some motors. If my motor looked as good as the one in the picture above I wouldn’t want to cover it up but unfortunately it’s just a tractor like Mercury 3.0. 

I’m predicting a demand for a quality MLV in the future.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

just realized i had a typo. the rectangles are 18" x 32". I had the pricing and price per sq foot correct though.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

update. Pre-orders opening soon. CLD Squares and CLD Rectangles should be here before the end of May


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I'll take some of each. Call it 40sqft of each. You know where to find me. I can pick up when I (eventually) make my way back up there to cut some big ass holes in a van.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

captainobvious said:


> I'll take some of each. Call it 40sqft of each. You know where to find me. I can pick up when I (eventually) make my way back up there to cut some big *ass holes* in a van.


you want to put ass holes in your van?


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## Ifixtheinternet (Jan 29, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> you want to put ass holes in your van?


Don't need any tools for that one.


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ifixtheinternet said:


> Don't need any tools for that one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Ha!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Ifixtheinternet (Jan 29, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> Ha!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Unless you call them tools when they get in the van. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> you want to put ass holes in your van?


I assumed that was why he was headed back up that way to see you?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Eh screw it. Im going to open up pre-orders tonight through paypal. So heres the deal. I kinda may have forgotten to account for freight and boxes and storage into my price. The end price is $6 per sheet of 12" x 12" ResoNix CLD Squares, and $12.50 per sheet of 18" x 32" ResoNix CLD Rectangle ($3.13 per square foot). Velcro is still $5.50 per foot. I will be charging a flat rate of $10 for shipping for the time being.

Heres the deal with pre-orders. For pre-orders, i will be doing full packs or half packs ONLY. Pre-orders will get a slight discount.

Full packs of CLD Squares will include 40 pieces and will normally be $225. For the pre-order, they will be $200 even. Half packs will not exist outside of this pre-order but will be $110. 

Full packs of CLD Rectangles will include 20 pieces and will normally be $230. For the pre-order they will be $205. Half packs will not exist outside of this pre-order but will be $115.

$10 shipping not included. If you want to get in on it now, you will need to use paypal. Otherwise pre-orders will be live on the website on Wednesday. 

I am estimating having product here by the second week in May. I am not guaranteeing that, it is just an estimate.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Congrats man!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dgage said:


> Congrats man!


Thanks! the stressful times of running around trying to figure it all out are almost over. Now i just gotta have the site finished and keep on top of it and the facebook and ship orders and answer any questions. Should be smooth sailing within a week or so. The past 2 months or so have been hell lol.


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## Ifixtheinternet (Jan 29, 2016)

I can't believe you're resurrecting the DIYMA made ultimate sound deadening, and making it better than ever.

Brovo sir. 

I regret not finding out about this before making a purchase. I've just decided I need more CLD.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ifixtheinternet said:


> I can't believe you're resurrecting the DIYMA made ultimate sound deadening, and making it better than ever.
> 
> Brovo sir.
> 
> ...


Thank you. doing my best to keep it alive


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## chrisinmo (Oct 19, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Thanks! the stressful times of running around trying to figure it all out are almost over. Now i just gotta have the site finished and keep on top of it and the facebook and ship orders and answer any questions. Should be smooth sailing within a week or so. The past 2 months or so have been hell lol.




Can you give a general idea of how much of this product would be required for 2 doors, 4 doors, and trunk? Also I think I read the rectangles are standard material and the squares are a heavier material is this correct? 

Thanks! 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

chrisinmo said:


> Can you give a general idea of how much of this product would be required for 2 doors, 4 doors, and trunk? Also I think I read the rectangles are standard material and the squares are a heavier material is this correct?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


All doirs are differant sizes. Measure the door. Youll get you footage

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

chrisinmo said:


> Can you give a general idea of how much of this product would be required for 2 doors, 4 doors, and trunk? Also I think I read the rectangles are standard material and the squares are a heavier material is this correct?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


It really depends on the car and how far you want to take it. There will be a guide up on the website soon that will help you weigh your options

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## chrisinmo (Oct 19, 2018)

Thank you. I will keep an eye out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Bumping this for the non night owls 

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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

Are those prices for the entire pre-order time or just before tomorrow? Also when does the pre-order window end?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> Are those prices for the entire pre-order time or just before tomorrow? Also when does the pre-order window end?


entire pre-order time. pre-orders end when i get the shipment. probably mid-may


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> Bumping this for the non night owls
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Order placed. Am also getting set up with 2" Marshalltown rollers. will include a free one for each pre-order.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Speaking of rollers...























Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)




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## 1883atlantics (Mar 28, 2012)

SkizeR said:


> Order placed. Am also getting set up with 2" Marshalltown rollers. will include a free one for each pre-order.


Just tried to place an order via the website for the 20piece squares and the only payment options listed were COD or check. Is there a way to pay via credit card?

Glad I waited on ordering the Dynamat Extreme!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

1883atlantics said:


> Just tried to place an order via the website for the 20piece squares and the only payment options listed were COD or check. Is there a way to pay via credit card?
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I waited on ordering the Dynamat Extreme!


Hmmm.. it shouldnt be visible on the site yet lol

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## 1883atlantics (Mar 28, 2012)

SkizeR said:


> Hmmm.. it shouldnt be visible on the site yet lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


oops.lol...sure was visible. But the top is in (what appears to be) French. I can try later when you let us know the site is up and running


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Yeah, you must have checked it at the *perfect* time as it was only up for a short period for my website guy to show me progress lol.


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> Yeah, you must have checked it at the *perfect* time as it was only up for a short period for my website guy to show me progress lol.


I can still see it....


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> I can still see it....


I know. Im scanning it to make sure everything is correct. That said, what do you guys think?


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> I know. Im scanning it to make sure everything is correct. That said, what do you guys think?


I like it overall. Simple and easy to, find, order, and buy what you need. 

My only suggestion would be that on the product pages you have the picture on the left, related products in the middle (which needs to be fixed), and then all of the writing on the right. 

I would just have the picture on the top and have the writing span the entire page. This will eliminate about half of the scrolling down. 

But I love the graphs and all of that info right there. Tells us not just what it does, but how much it helps.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> I like it overall. Simple and easy to, find, order, and buy what you need.
> 
> My only suggestion would be that on the product pages you have the picture on the left, related products in the middle (which needs to be fixed), and then all of the writing on the right.
> 
> ...


Yeah that was something i noticed as well. And yeah, the descriptions, no BS, no marketing gimmicks, etc.


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> Yeah that was something i noticed as well. And yeah, the descriptions, no BS, no marketing gimmicks, etc.


Also can you make the graphics and graphs to where you can click on them and they zoom in. It is hard to actually read them as is with their size. It is a perfect size for just scrolling through, but it would be nice to be able to zoom in on them and not lose picture quality.

But make that a pop up style, not to where it takes you off of the page style...I hate when you click on an image and it takes you away from the page.


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## Aldaa (Feb 25, 2015)

SkizeR said:


> I know. Im scanning it to make sure everything is correct. That said, what do you guys think?


Looks good, but make sure the guy adds a "View Cart" button. Currently the only way to get to your cart is after you add a product, you have to scroll back to the top of the page and it says the item is added, view cart.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Aldaa said:


> Looks good, but make sure the guy adds a "View Cart" button. Currently the only way to get to your cart is after you add a product, you have to scroll back to the top of the page and it says the item is added, view cart.


noted. Thanks


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

wooo. Free 2" Marshalltown rollers.
Thanks Nick


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## adriancp (Feb 12, 2012)

Is there a problem going to checkout currently? Keeps giving me the error 404

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

adriancp said:


> Is there a problem going to checkout currently? Keeps giving me the error 404
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


yes, the whole site is giving me issues. Not sure why its live. I'm gunna call my guy right now


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

So the site is only viewable because hes working on it and seeing what everything looks like when live. The error you get at checkout is because the SSL is not setup yet but this all should be ready by the end of the day. Next update.. Just got word backon the closed cell foam. We will be going forward with a very interesting foam. Honestly, I do not know the words to describe it. It is very compliant but still has enough resistance to do its job. It will feature an automotive grade peel and stick adhesive and will come in 2 sizes as of right now. 10mm, and 5mm.

5mm will be 54" (4.5 feet) wide, and sold by the linear yard. Each yard will be about $30

10mm with also be 54" (4.5 feet) wide, and sold by the linear yard. Each yard will be about $45.

I realize that math doesnt add up. "Hey nick, why is half the material not half the price?".. well, because the manufacturer makes this in 10mm thick rolls. they have to do more work (which means charge me more money) to cut it down to 5mm. 5mm is the thinnest they can cut this material down to. I chose a 54" wide roll because half of 54 is 27. Guess how tall the tallest door we have done was?  a door is usually no more than 3 feet wide. if thats the case, buy a yard and you're set for both front doors. 

I will be including sample packs with all orders so long as i have everything.


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## adriancp (Feb 12, 2012)

Will the foam be available to order today or tomorrow as well when the site is operational?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

What about the ccf rings?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

adriancp said:


> Will the foam be available to order today or tomorrow as well when the site is operational?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


im not sure, probably but i need to figure out end prices which will be dictated by shipping costs to me. unfortunately, i have zero clue how much it costs to ship 3 massive rolls of foam across the country. i estimated my prices above by thinking 400 dollars for shipping.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Apr 10, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> im not sure, probably but i need to figure out end prices which will be dictated by shipping costs to me. unfortunately, i have zero clue how much it costs to ship 3 massive rolls of foam across the country. i estimated my prices above by thinking 400 dollars for shipping.


Any update on the rings?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ToNasty said:


> What about the ccf rings?


no idea on that yet. waiting to get a call back to talk about it.

im going to upload a video of the sample of the foam to show you guys what its like. There is only one other CCF on the car audio market that i think does its job perfectly, but it costs $10 per square foot for their 1/4" thick material, where my 5mm costs about $2.25 per square foot


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Side note, the start of the How-To Guide is up. If anyone wants to read it and let me know your thoughts, that would be great. what I'm looking for is feedback on if everything makes sense or not, if anything needs clarification, etc. I'm trying to write it so that a total beginner will be able to read it and deaden his doors as well as any professional with the knowledge and instructions presented in the article. 

Please note, i am not an english major. I am a peasant car audio installer so please take that into account :laugh:

How-To guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions


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## SlvrDragon50 (Apr 10, 2017)

As someone who has never done this before and about to do it, I think the guide is awesome. Only question is are you putting anything between your moisture barrier (ABS sheet) and inner door skin? Also might want to note that you are using rivnuts to secure that barrier to the door skin since I'm sure people will eventually ask.

Small comment: the figure captions are confusing. You put a space between the caption + photo making it look like the caption belongs to the photo below it.

It may be cleaner to change the font for the captions as well as create section headers like 1) CLD, 2) Moisture barrier replacement 3) CCF foam, etc.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

SlvrDragon50 said:


> As someone who has never done this before and about to do it, I think the guide is awesome. Only question is are you putting anything between your moisture barrier (ABS sheet) and inner door skin? Also might want to note that you are using rivnuts to secure that barrier to the door skin since I'm sure people will eventually ask.
> 
> Small comment: the figure captions are confusing. You put a space between the caption + photo making it look like the caption belongs to the photo below it.
> 
> It may be cleaner to change the font for the captions as well as create section headers like 1) CLD, 2) Moisture barrier replacement 3) CCF foam, etc.


good points about the captions. this was just copy and pasted from a word doc. i will change it when i get the rest of the site situated. As far as what holds whatever your using to cover larger holes, that is up to the end user and has nothing to do with the deadening, so i left it out to avoid drifting from the subject. For quicker jobs, like the one in the photo i use small sheet metal screws. For larger jobs i'll use riv-nuts. and there was plenty between the plastic and moisture barrier. there was the CLD and CCF. was that left out?


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Overall I thought the guide was good as well. I agree with the comment of the photo captions being slightly confusing. Only other thought I had was butyl rubber and leaving a gap for water to drop between. But I guess the way you placed it, the water would just drip on the inside of the door support bars.

I think the next thing needed to stop lots of questions would be related to how much needed to do some popular vehicles. Maybe start with a few examples that you often get such as a Camry, Accord, F150, SUV, etc. Using those as examples, most people should be able find the closest vehicle type and order similarly. Break it down by doors, floor, roof, trunk, etc so a person can choose what they plan to do. 

Overall good work and if Resonix isn’t successful, I don’t think anyone would be able to be successful selling premium automotive noise solutions.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dgage said:


> Overall I thought the guide was good as well. I agree with the comment of the photo captions being slightly confusing. Only other thought I had was butyl rubber and leaving a gap for water to drop between. But I guess the way you placed it, the water would just drip on the inside of the door support bars.
> 
> I think the next thing needed to stop lots of questions would be related to how much needed to do some popular vehicles. Maybe start with a few examples that you often get such as a Camry, Accord, F150, SUV, etc. Using those as examples, most people should be able find the closest vehicle type and order similarly. Break it down by doors, floor, roof, trunk, etc so a person can choose what they plan to do.
> 
> Overall good work and if Resonix isn’t successful, I don’t think anyone would be able to be successful selling premium automotive noise solutions.


good ideas as well. side note, that is an accord in the photos and is exactly why i used it


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Check the squares. The 20 and 40 are both listed as half box.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

dgage said:


> I think the next thing needed to stop lots of questions would be related to how much needed to do some popular vehicles. Maybe start with a few examples that you often get such as a Camry, Accord, F150, SUV, etc. Using those as examples, most people should be able find the closest vehicle type and order similarly. Break it down by doors, floor, roof, trunk, etc so a person can choose what they plan to do.


I realize that would likely be helpful for a lot of people, but it is also ALOT of info for Nick to collate and it is SOOOOOOOO easy for anyone to figure out simply by using a tape measure and calculator.

That being said, it might well be VERY easy for Nick's website developer to load an online calc page to his website that would do the math to determine how much of each product is need based on the total measurements provided by the buyer. There could even be an "add to cart" button at the bottom of the calculator !!!

Just my .02


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

And heres some photos of the 5/8" (16mm) thick sample i have (remember, mine will be 10mm or 5mm or maybe even both). Notice how much it can compress if needed and hold its shape for a bit after letting go. When pushing down with my full hand over the entire surface of it, it takes a bit of effort to get it to compress, but once you get it down, it is slow to snap back to its normal position. small areas squish down to nothing with no effort though. The second picture is maybe just under a second after letting go of it


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dan750iL said:


> Check the squares. The 20 and 40 are both listed as half box.


saw that. its getting fixed. Thanks


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

seafish said:


> I realize that would likely be helpful for a lot of people, but it is also ALOT of info for Nick to collate and it is SOOOOOOOO easy for anyone to figure out simply by using a tape measure and calculator.
> 
> That being said, it might well be VERY easy for Nick's website developer to load an online calc page to his website that would do the math to determine how much of each product is need based on the total measurements provided by the buyer. There could even be an "add to cart" button at the bottom of the calculator !!!
> 
> Just my .02


the thing with this is, as you know, every car is different. much different. some need a lot of coverage, some dont need much at all. I have done cars where they dont need ANY on the inner door skin, but many others that need a ton on the inner door skin, like the honda accord pictured. You cant figure this out with a tape measure.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Nice work Nick. I think using lots of pictures with step by step examples and instructions like you always do with your build logs is key. Every beginner can understand it better this way. 

I would also hammer home with examples reasons why your product is better to help differentiate yours from the rest so your brand becomes known as a high end product at a good price. I wouldn’t go negative as that can turn people off but more educate them on the differences and why it matters. If people get a high performance product at a great price than they will feel better about spending a little more over similar products just like SDS was known as the best of the best but not the most expensive (at least that was my impression from them).


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Actually, you should have a link leading to build logs you do in your shop as examples for people to follow on that web site. I’m guessing this will lead to more traffic at your sit which means more people viewing it and discovering your product.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

V8toilet said:


> Nice work Nick. I think using lots of pictures with step by step examples and instructions like you always do with your build logs is key. Every beginner can understand it better this way.
> 
> I would also hammer home with examples reasons why your product is better to help differentiate yours from the rest so your brand becomes known as a high end product at a good price. I wouldn’t go negative as that can turn people off but more educate them on the differences and why it matters. If people get a high performance product at a great price than they will feel better about spending a little more over similar products just like SDS was known as the best of the best but not the most expensive (at least that was my impression from them).


Thank you. I agree with you on all fronts, including the education without talking down. Thing is, how do i provide info that we are one of, if not the best on the market without putting another product down? Do we use baseless claims like every other brand? I was planning on letting chris's testing do the talking for the product, but turns out things moved along quicker on my end than i expected, so it was either wait a few months for chris to test allllll of my samples, or re-create his old rig and test some myself 

i'll just leave this here. Previous leader vs ResoNix Square. This is not a super scientific test like an oberst bar composite loss factor test. but, it is apples to apples and thats really all i could have asked for. Both pieces tested were cut to the same size. same panel. same volume, etc. same everything, different results. ignore the long trails at 60 and 120hz. those are reflections. 
















Previous leader















ResoNix Square.











I'm not going to disclose any info about this as again, im not here to claim "**** yeah, we're better than that company". I was going to let Chris's testing speak for itself but i just couldnt wait that long to make a decision. take this post for what it is, but please dont ask about it. I dont even want to post it, but the point you made is kinda twisting my arm.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

And heres a little video of our 5/8" thick sample (again, this isnt the thickness we will be using) that just shows its how it behaves


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Through education/educating the customer to empower them to make informed decisions. Not all CLD products are the same so why is that? Why does a thicker aluminum layer matter? Why does the quality of the butyl rubber matter? How can I maximize what you have on a budget? Give them lots of examples and pictures. Show them the ways and empower them with confidence. This is why Crutchfield is so successful and I also believe SDS was too (at least for a while). 

I discovered SDS through my searches for this information and I learned more from that site than any other site I can remember. It was bookmarked in my browser for every tablet and computer I owned. I plastered their link in every forum I joined to help others and told everyone I knew about them because their site was excellent for learning about these products in the right way. The one thing that really created value and made me trust them more was their claim that you only needed about 25% coverage when all the other sites were telling me more is better. This led me to test out different samples in my garage with metal Simpson anchor clips from my job site, and SDS was right. You are already great at doing this on the forum so capitalize on it and make it work for you and your new products. 

You have the best of both worlds with your shop where they complement each other. This gives you more experience than the other guys right there. Make sure your customers know that. People also like to buy from people they like who have a genuine interest in helping them do better and I know you are the man for that! Again, companies like Crutchfield excel at this. You can also tell them your story about you. Sounds Corny I know, but people love that **** and eat it up. If they like you and your business than they will be more willing to buy from you.

There was an article about you and how you started out not that long ago, share that ****, I loved it myself. I have a deep respect for people with an entrepreneurial spirit. It takes a lot of hard work, guts, and more hard work, which I never had but wish I did.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Apr 10, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> good points about the captions. this was just copy and pasted from a word doc. i will change it when i get the rest of the site situated. As far as what holds whatever your using to cover larger holes, that is up to the end user and has nothing to do with the deadening, so i left it out to avoid drifting from the subject. For quicker jobs, like the one in the photo i use small sheet metal screws. For larger jobs i'll use riv-nuts. and there was plenty between the plastic and moisture barrier. there was the CLD and CCF. was that left out?


Sorry, I might be using the wrong terminology. I meant if you're using anything to seal the gap between the ABS plastic sheets you used to seal the larger holes or if you're just using screws/riv-nuts.

I think you might want to rearrange the following paragraph:


> After the outer door skin is finished, let’s move onto the inner door skin. The inner door skins can be a bit unpredictable from vehicle to vehicle. Outer door skins are pretty much always long and flat. Inner door skins, not the case. Some are flat and easy to work with, some have a bunch of curves and bends in the sheet metal, some have wires all over them, and most have large holes in them as well. Some are even made out of plastic or composite materials. If they are large and flat with not much natural damping, stick to the ResoNix Squares. If not, some more careful thought and planning should go into it. If the panel is already naturally damped (knock on it with your finger. Does it resonate or is it solid?) If it already has some form of natural damping due to its shape and curvature, stick to ResoNix Rectangles unless you are after the absolute best performance regardless of price. Just know that diminishing returns do exist. Again, use the largest pieces you can. It’s better to have one large piece as opposed to multiple smaller pieces that cover equal, or even more surface area. The largest problem with inner door skins is the large holes that are there to service anything inside of the door. For optimal midbass performance, we need to do our best job at sealing these holes to prevent cancellation from the rear wave of the speaker interacting with the front. If the holes are large (over 1 square foot or so), its probably best to use something hard like acrylic, fiberglass, abs, etc. to seal up the holes and use a CLD over them. If the hole is on the small side, it is perfectly fine to use a CLD over the hole to seal it.


You talk about the CLD layout first and then talk about covering up the access holes, but I think you are covering up the access holes first and then doing the CLD? It might make it more clear to flip it around, and then it also matches the photos.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Site looks great, bro. You are entering the beautiful world of ecommerce... Lmk, if you want to promote it nationally. Happy to help out a friend.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Site looks great, bro. You are entering the beautiful world of ecommerce... Lmk, if you want to promote it nationally. Happy to help out a friend.


Thanks. And promote nationally how?

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> Thanks. And promote nationally how?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Google Adwords & SEO


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Google Adwords & SEO


I'll call you later 

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> I'll call you later
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Anytime. We can do this locally for your shop's services as well...


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Anytime. We can do this locally for your shop's services as well...


In that case, you busy right now? You have my attention lol

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> In that case, you busy right now? You have my attention lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Call me whenever you want


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I’ve been reading some more from your website now that I’m home from work and I probably should have read more before I wrote my previous post, sorry man. Love the John Deere example. Really good analogy that paints the picture well in my mind. I’m pretty sure it was based from a real experience too. :laugh:

This being said, your website is very well thought out in terms of educating the novice. I went back to SDS for my own comparison. I’m still sad to see SDS go but excited to see yours take off. My only other thought to help with ideas, which I’m sure you thought about, is to let customers post reviews some how some way in the future.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

V8toilet said:


> I’ve been reading some more from your website now that I’m home from work and I probably should have read more before I wrote my previous post, sorry man. Love the John Deere example. Really good analogy that paints the picture well in my mind. I’m pretty sure it was based from a real experience too. :laugh:
> 
> This being said, your website is very well thought out in terms of educating the novice. I went back to SDS for my own comparison. I’m still sad to see SDS go but excited to see yours take off. My only other thought to help with ideas, which I’m sure you thought about, is to let customers post reviews some how some way in the future.


i live that analogy every sunday 6 months out of the year. Itll be starting probably this weekend


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Just in time for the weekend, PRE-ORDERS ARE OPEN!

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Is there going to be hydrophobic fiber mat available as you show in the how to guide? 

I understand the difference between the rectangles and squares myself but looking at this pretending to be someone who has not read this thread, I’m finding understanding the difference between the rectangles and squares to be confusing. It’s only when I read near the bottom that one is thicker than the other that I know the difference so I think it would help to differentiate those differences more in the headings and descriptions. 

Also, the rectangles says 45 pounds per square foot and the squares 1 pound per square foot. Just a small thing. 

Thanks Nick


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

V8toilet said:


> Is there going to be hydrophobic fiber mat available as you show in the how to guide?
> 
> I understand the difference between the rectangles and squares myself but looking at this pretending to be someone who has not read this thread, I’m finding understanding the difference between the rectangles and squares to be confusing. It’s only when I read near the bottom that one is thicker than the other that I know the difference so I think it would help to differentiate those differences more in the headings and descriptions.
> 
> ...


That specific car had it already from the factory. but it will be available once i either find a USA based manufacturer that can match or best the samples from china (highly doubtful), or find the time to finally sit down and figure out how to import large quantities from Asia.


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## adriancp (Feb 12, 2012)

Ok, regarding CCF, I’ve never used it. Without stripping my doors down (don’t want to until I install deadening & midbass). Anyone have a suggestion on what thickness I should get (or get away with) ? 

2019 Ram 1500


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jdunk54nl (Apr 25, 2015)

adriancp said:


> Ok, regarding CCF, I’ve never used it. Without stripping my doors down (don’t want to until I install deadening & midbass). Anyone have a suggestion on what thickness I should get (or get away with) ?
> 
> 2019 Ram 1500
> 
> ...



Kind of same thickness question...Why would I use 10mm? I know the SDS was 1/8" or about 3mm. So what is the benefit to going to 10mm when 5mm is nearly double already. 

Or vice versa, (besides cost) why would I use 5mm when you offer 10mm? It is solely price?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jdunk54nl said:


> Kind of same thickness question...Why would I use 10mm? I know the SDS was 1/8" or about 3mm. So what is the benefit to going to 10mm when 5mm is nearly double already.
> 
> Or vice versa, (besides cost) why would I use 5mm when you offer 10mm? It is solely price?





adriancp said:


> Ok, regarding CCF, I’ve never used it. Without stripping my doors down (don’t want to until I install deadening & midbass). Anyone have a suggestion on what thickness I should get (or get away with) ?
> 
> 2019 Ram 1500
> 
> ...



So heres the difference and why i didnt even initially want to offer 5mm..

The SDS stuff especially, but almost all other CCF's on the market are pretty stiff. Their durometer "rating" is just to hard for what i think is ideal for what we are trying to achieve. Ours, is absurdly soft, but still provides enough support to do its job. if you see the photos and video you will be able to tell. I should have uploaded one that compares it vs something that is generic and rebranded by like 10 other brands. I'll do that right now.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Where's the Velcro?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> Where's the Velcro?


hit refresh


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

And it magically appears. I placed my order.

Not being able to see the entire text that you typed in the box is rather annoying. Some of the text goes outside the boxes during and after checkout. Some of the words in descriptions have only one letter carryover to the next line instead of the entire word. 

It functioned correctly, the links worked quickly, and had no issues checking out.

Some minor visual cue stuff that can help with professionalism. Trust me I have the worst website known to man. I constantly get criticized. I only have it because insurance made me. I have never even looked at it. (My wife has described it. SMH)


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Theslaking said:


> And it magically appears. I placed my order.
> 
> Not being able to see the entire text that you typed in the box is rather annoying. Some of the text goes outside the boxes during and after checkout. Some of the words in descriptions have only one letter carryover to the next line instead of the entire word.
> 
> ...


thanks for the support! yeah, i was more so focused on getting the info up, and orders rolling otherwise i would have had the products before the site was even ready lol


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## jcesl2 (Nov 14, 2018)

At the bottom of every page it says this:



We are an award-winning creative agency, dedicated to the best result in web design, promotion, business consulting, and marketing.

© 2019 Resonix. All Rights Reserved.


Think your website guy forgot to change that


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

jcesl2 said:


> At the bottom of every page it says this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yep. i'll see if i can change it


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Side note: Velcro is the only thing in stock. If you order that, along with other products that are on back order, im going to ship them all when the products get here unless you say otherwise. I will have to set up an option or just email everyone individually as they come in


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## Derek_PNW (Mar 5, 2019)

Some questions regarding your CCF before I order.

Don mentions on SDS that his Neoprene/EPDM CCF works well with HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement. Have you found that to be the case with yours as well? I didn't see on the site if it was self-adhesive or not.

Regarding the different thicknesses... Where should I plan to use each thickness? I'm thinking the 10mm between the door panel and MLV and the 5mm stuff everywhere else (floor, back wall, roof, etc)? 

So on inner door panel:
5mm CCF
MLV
10mm CCF
Door Panel (with CLDs as needed?)


Thanks


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Derek_PNW said:


> Some questions regarding your CCF before I order.
> 
> Don mentions on SDS that his Neoprene/EPDM CCF works well with HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement. Have you found that to be the case with yours as well? I didn't see on the site if it was self-adhesive or not.
> 
> ...


i actually have not tested that but can right now. havent tested because i didnt see a need since it has automotive grade peel and stick adhesive. As far as what thickness to use, its hard to say since idk what car you have and most likely dont know what you can fit behind there. I'm willing to bet that any car can fit the 10mm behind the door panels with a bit of elbow grease, but adding mlv makes it a bit tricky. Are you doing MLV on the whole car? if not, i wouldnt bother putting it in your doors. As far as why, i touch on that in the how to guide which i am still adding to.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

I just posted a video showing the differences between our CCF and the typical rebranded CCF that plagues the market. Check my other thread for the video. I'd like for all future questions and comments to be posted in that thread, please. Thank you.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...onix-sound-solutions-pre-orders-now-open.html


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Nick are the pre order prices on the site? Was going to get some ensolite but remembered you


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Order processing errors


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dcfis said:


> Order processing errors


your the second person to tell me that. I'm looking into it. In the meantime, message me and i can send a paypal invoice. What type of card and internet browser are you using? my website guy ran some tests with nothing showing and thinks it might be the card or browser.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Chrome and Google pay


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dcfis said:


> Chrome and Google pay


ahhhh, the system we have doesnt support google pay. Try a card?


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Interesting it's an option from the menus


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

http://imgur.com/a/5lSEUT2


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dcfis said:


> http://imgur.com/a/5lSEUT2


i see it too, weird. I'll have it removed. 

Side note, if anyone needs or wants to pay with paypal, shoot me a message and i can send you an invoice.


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## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

@SkizeR Any release ETA for "Fiber Mat"? I can attest that this stuff shuts up high frequencies at least. TLX has a noisy high pitched sound coming from the fan under the glove compartment, but you'd only know that if you dropped the plastic covering. I was driving around for a couple days slowly losing my mind, but once I clipped the covering back on I couldn't hear it anymore. 










Also confirming FD1/FD2 CCF is 36 inches x 54 inches? Is it continuous yards or cut by the yard?

I'm reading your site like you would use one or the other and not both. Which would you pick / would you still sell both lines?

Thanks!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

01LSi said:


> @SkizeR Any release ETA for "Fiber Mat"? I can attest that this stuff shuts up high frequencies at least. TLX has a noisy high pitched sound coming from the fan under the glove compartment, but you'd only know that if you dropped the plastic covering. I was driving around for a couple days slowly losing my mind, but once I clipped the covering back on I couldn't hear it anymore.
> 
> View attachment 262571
> 
> ...


so unfortuantely the fiber mat has no release date in site. Frankly, i do not currently have the storage space to store it. Im already struggling to find space in the shop as it is. As far as the FD1/FD2, it really depends. if you can fit FD2, use that. If not, FD1


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Do a sale deal and you be all good with space. I think some people that turns them off that I know off. Is shipping pricing. 

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

quickaudi07 said:


> Ale a sale deal and you be all good with space. I think some people that turns them off that I know off. Is shipping pricing.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


Why are you _always_ asking for deals? In my facebook messages, forum messages, and now publicly? Seriously, stop. that **** gets annoying. I dont do sales, and frankly, I'm not eating shipping. This stuff is HEAVY. This is not some typical sound deadener. Its over 1lbs per square foot. It costs a TON to ship. You dont want to pay shipping? Come pick it up. If you want the absolute best CLD on the market, you know where to find it. Or if you're on a budget and can settle for less than the best, message noico and ask them for a discount. If you (speaking directly to you here, Mario) dont want my product and/or dont want to pay for it, stop interacting with me. You are the biggest waste of time I have ever encountered in this hobby/industry. 

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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Go f yourself buddy 

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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

But when I put good word about your product u don't mind... 
It's all good... 

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

quickaudi07 said:


> But when I put good word about your product u don't mind...
> It's all good...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


Your word literally means nothing. Most know to ignore you by now

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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

That escalated quickly


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> Your word literally means nothing. Most know to ignore you by now
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Just like you to many others 

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

quickaudi07 said:


> Just like you to many others
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


Yet just 11 days ago you were in my facebook messages asking for advice...

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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Yes I agree I did. I'm glad you're keeping the history. But you being an ******* .. I got an ******* answer... I figured - **** that *******.. 

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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

Haters gonna hate. Time to place my first order of supplies.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

quickaudi07 said:


> Yes I agree I did. I'm glad you're keeping the history. But you being an ******* .. I got an ******* answer... I figured - **** that *******..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


You always say that, yet you always come back saying sorry and then instantly asking for advice or discounts. Kindly, go play in traffic. You genuinely are the worst type of person to deal with. 

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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Sorry about what nick. Listen this is your post. I only suggested something and you went back to be you. I got no more time for this...

You're a very smart, and got the skill. Use it and be normal to people. 

Have a good day man.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Just placed an order for the best CLD I have ever used.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

JCsAudio said:


> Just placed an order for the best CLD I have ever used.


I agree to that... ! It is the best one I have used as well. 
I have used Dynamat, GP, second skin, Nico, and few others... By far this is a most...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


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## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

Also did you end up going with a different CCF then the demo in this video? Just asking because the vehicle database picture applications _seem_ like a different texture on the top layer.



















I have some leftover Dynaliner closed cell foam but very disappointed with it in the last car. It has a weird texture similar the "competitor" option in that video that actually makes it's own annoying "sticky" type of sound when wires or panels tap against it.


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## ribrown (May 2, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> I agree to that... ! It is the best one I have used as well.
> I have used Dynamat, GP, second skin, Nico, and few others... By far this is a most...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


It really is the best product out there. I've used several types in the past and this stuff rules in so many ways. The CLD sticks like glue with very little effort to all shapes of surfaces. The FD stuff sticks effortlessly as well. No logo print all over them. And they are shipped flat and not annoyingly rolled up. 

But I was a little baffled by the shipping price at first as well but after receiving it I quickly realized why. The box weighed pretty heavy and was huge. The stuff comes flat which is great! I hate dealing with rolls of deadener. And the products were packed perfectly for ease of use. Just pull them out of the flat box, cut and paste. Piece of cake.

But the results I got from installing the Resonix products far exceeded the price. I felt like I had a new pair of Midbass in my doors. 

So my point is, Door Deadening is a very important step in the SQ car audio process. If you want exceptional results, you gotta go with the best quality stuff you can get. And this stuff rules.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

01LSi said:


> Also did you end up going with a different CCF then the demo in this video? Just asking because the vehicle database picture applications _seem_ like a different texture on the top layer.
> View attachment 262716
> 
> 
> ...


No, we have the exact foam in the photo. But, when we did some of the cars that are in the vehicle database, we didnt have that foam in our posession yet and was using an ensolite foam that is exactly the same as dynaliner. And i agree, not a fan of that foam either. Its too stiff to do any real decoupling


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ribrown said:


> It really is the best product out there. I've used several types in the past and this stuff rules in so many ways. The CLD sticks like glue with very little effort to all shapes of surfaces. The FD stuff sticks effortlessly as well. No logo print all over them. And they are shipped flat and not annoyingly rolled up.
> 
> But I was a little baffled by the shipping price at first as well but after receiving it I quickly realized why. The box weighed pretty heavy and was huge. The stuff comes flat which is great! I hate dealing with rolls of deadener. And the products were packed perfectly for ease of use. Just pull them out of the flat box, cut and paste. Piece of cake.
> 
> ...


I actually agree with you. The shipping prices are crazy. But the website isnt just making up a crazy number. Its directly linked to my fedex account and all of the weights and sizes are built into the websites calculator. UPS recently changed their pricing structures to pretty much make up for the lack of profit they are making on amazon, and fedex kinda followed since they saw such a huge gap. That said, i've been trying for months now to get my account prices lowered but the local fedex rep seems to have zero interest in doing business with me. It sucks. I would use usps, but i with all of the horror stories, no thanks. But you are also right about the end price for what you get. At the end of the day, you arent just buying some random CLD. You are buying the best, period, and i promise that. Put it this way.. dynamat extreme came in at "third place" in the CLD testing here done by 2stubborn2fail. When SDS went out of business, my shop had to stop using SDS and we tried out dynamat extreme since i could actually get it at a dealer cost and finally make a couple of dollars off it as opposed to buying SDS at full price and essentially giving it away. When we tried dynamat extreme, which again, did very well in the objective testing, we were so let down by the performance in relation to SDS that i just wouldnt have it. The combination of SDS closing and nothing else being up to par with it is what led me to create ResoNix. To offer the customers that come to my shop the best that there can be. Selling it publicly was a secondary idea once i saw the minimum order quantities lol. But yeah, if you dont want to pay for it or pay for the shipping, that is 100% fine. There are a ton of other cheaper options out there. But i know that when i deaden a car, i REALLY dont want to have to do it again. Want to do it once and never have to think about it again? ResoNix Squares to the rescue.


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## ribrown (May 2, 2012)

Great post Nick. I'll always use this stuff and always recommend it. It's a super product.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Side note, i have someone currently re-designing my apicella auto sound site. Im going to have him take a look at my resonix site and see if there is something wrong with the shipping


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## HOIRiIZON (Apr 3, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> Yet just 11 days ago you were in my facebook messages asking for advice...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Skizer your still here being an ass ?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

HOIRiIZON said:


> Skizer your still here being an ass


Oh jeez, look what the cat dragged in

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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

You guys recommend using cld as a moisture barrier in a door?

I already have mlv over the plastic vapor barrier. Or am I chasing diminished returns?


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Yes that seems excessive.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ResoNix Update!

So, long story short, we have been out of our CLD Squares for a while, were out of FD1 for a bit, as well as velcro. As of early next week, everything is going to be in stock and shipping. All standing orders will be shipped first. So, quick updates...

ResoNix Rectangles have been discontinued. Frankly, the Squares are better per dollar spent. Zero point in stocking both and selling both if one is better in every way per dollar spent
ResoNix FD1 (5mm thick CCF with adhesive backing) has been replaced by ResoNix CCF Decoupler 7. This is the SAME product, just with a total thickness of 7mm. Price is still the same
ResoNix Squares Full Box is now a pack that consists of 30 Squares instead of 40. This is due to a packaging change since i requested the boxes to be a bit different for storage purposes.


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## bnae38 (Oct 3, 2015)

Just placed a medium sized order. Looking forward to putting some good materials in my next build, just took my gear out of the Subaru and the Noico crap mat i put in there was melted all over the place. Not seeping out into visible space-bad, but nasty none the less.. basically impossible to re-use a lot of the wiring. 

Lesson learned. 

Thanks!


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

You take any photos of the semi-melted Noico? Seen SO many people talking up the product and anyone who tries to point out it's inferior, immediately gets bum rushed by fans of the product. It'd be nice to see examples of the product failing (if you will).


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

bnae38 said:


> Just placed a medium sized order. Looking forward to putting some good materials in my next build, just took my gear out of the Subaru and the Noico crap mat i put in there was melted all over the place. Not seeping out into visible space-bad, but nasty none the less.. basically impossible to re-use a lot of the wiring.
> 
> Lesson learned.
> 
> Thanks!


Same thing happened to mine. Has an almost Vaseline like consistency to it. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Side note, we had so many backorders for when we were out of stock, we pretty much instantly blew through our stock of 7mm ccf. We will be restocked around September 1st. If your order includes that product, I can either hold off to ship the whole order, or ship it with the 10mm foam. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## bnae38 (Oct 3, 2015)

10mm works for me, thanks Nick


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Your product Nick is awesome !!! 

It made outrageous difference in my car...

Thanks !

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


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## Nowak1981 (Sep 23, 2020)

This is my only post on this forum and after reading through your installs, explanations and various reviews/opinions, I'm sold. The work you have put into your explanations are the best I have read. I've been looking at soundproofing my Mazda3 since I bought it, but I'm lazy. Since I may be getting a job that is a solid hour drive, i've been more keen on gutting the interior and getting it done. I hate road noise but I love my car.

What sold me was the fact that you are frequently responding to people even though its a side gig. Its hard to find people who take this much pride in their work, I see the honesty and sincerity in your writings and I hope your business keeps growing.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Nowak1981 said:


> This is my only post on this forum and after reading through your installs, explanations and various reviews/opinions, I'm sold. The work you have put into your explanations are the best I have read. I've been looking at soundproofing my Mazda3 since I bought it, but I'm lazy. Since I may be getting a job that is a solid hour drive, i've been more keen on gutting the interior and getting it done. I hate road noise but I love my car.
> 
> What sold me was the fact that you are frequently responding to people even though its a side gig. Its hard to find people who take this much pride in their work, I see the honesty and sincerity in your writings and I hope your business keeps growing.


Thank you


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## Nowak1981 (Sep 23, 2020)

I think you mentioned something about MLV but I can’t find it anymore. I plan on gutting the entire interior minus the dash for deadening and I read (I think) that it’s best used for the entire car. I’m assuming whole floor and trunk area. If there was room would it be worth putting in the ceiling and doors or is it too heavy. The end result I’m going for, is just to get it as dead quiet as possible inside. I rarely listen to the radio. Too much road noise gives me headaches =(. So I’m planning on going over every square inch with something. Anyway, back on topic, you mentioned that your still working on finding someone to manufacture your MLV product would anyone be able to suggest an alternative?


thanks for all the hard work!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Nowak1981 said:


> .... would anyone be able to suggest an alternative?


Trademark Sound Solutions has the best deal on virini vinyl MLV and usually offer free shippng with a reasonable order. They also offer it in various weights and with and without PSA.



Mass Loaded Vinyl Sound Barrier | 1 lb per sf, 1/8" thick | Trademark Soundproofing


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## bnae38 (Oct 3, 2015)

Another small order placed to finish up some odds and ends.

Very impressed still with materials, far better than others I've used in past including dynomat, raammat, noico etc.

Ccf with adhesive in particular is super useful in many places.

Thanks for the superior products Nick.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

bnae38 said:


> Another small order placed to finish up some odds and ends.
> 
> Very impressed still with materials, far better than others I've used in past including dynomat, raammat, noico etc.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I had a feeling that name on the email this am looked familiar lol


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## SNCTMPL (Nov 23, 2014)

Looking forward to seeing my order this week.


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