# 2011 GMC Terrain....Zapco,Alpine,SB Acoustics,Seas Prestige



## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finally got out to get the test install done on this.It's an SLE-1 4cyl with 6 speaker system.Probably going to bypass the ANC system,however with the T-harnesses it's possible to leave it in place playing through the stock 8" sub in rear panel.Will not be using that location for anything anyway so maybe we'll get some use out of it.

Going to use the stock HU for signal bypassing the stock amp with T-harnesses I've made.The test set up was successful with no engine noise or other noise issues.Only thing that gave us a bit of a problem was at turn off.The speakers pop a bit when everything shuts down when using the stock remote turn on lead.However,I ran the remote to an empty terminal in the fuse box and that resolved it.So I'm going to have to pull the fuse box and add a circuit.

We'll be starting the actual install sometime in the next month.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Here's the gear.We're doing a fully active 2-way front with subs.Front speakers will all be in stock locations and sub enclosure/amp rack in spare tire well.Subs are 2ohm DVC and will be wired at a final 2ohm load.Won't be getting the max power from the ST2000 but at 2ohms still 1500w which is ok cause as of now I don't plan on beefing up the electrical system.

Seas Prestige tweets
SB-17's
Zapco ST6X
Zapco ST2000
Alpine 12 TypeR's (sealed)
Zapco IV DSP


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Amplifier bypassed with T-harnesses


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

These amps are pretty sweet.It was cold outside,can't wait for the warm weather.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

I dont find those seas on madisound


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

dcfis said:


> I dont find those seas on madisound


I ordered all the gear from Nick(Skizer)


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Awesome, I will get with him. Any reason going with the CF SBs instead of paper or poly?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

dcfis said:


> I dont find those seas on madisound


https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...stige-27tffnc/g-h1396-1-textile-dome-tweeter/




dcfis said:


> Awesome, I will get with him. Any reason going with the CF SBs instead of paper or poly?


the carbon seems to have a better breakup pattern CONSIDERING the intended crossover points. the breakup is a bit more peaky, but starts way after the crossover of what will probably be 2.5k. The breakup on the carbon also doesnt effect off axis response as much


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Thanks Nick,was going to tell him you designed the system aside from the typeR's. I'm not polished enough to know the difference.I put my faith in your knowledge....lol

One thing I noticed right away was that the cone is not nearly as stiff as my TM65's.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

It does look good.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

JH1973 said:


> Thanks Nick,was going to tell him you designed the system aside from the typeR's. I'm not polished enough to know the difference.I put my faith in your knowledge....lol
> 
> One thing I noticed right away was that the cone is not nearly as stiff as my TM65's.


a stiffer cone will have breakup later in the response, but it will be harsher. a softer cone will breakup earlier, but wont be as drastic. if you have a tweeter that can cross low enough you can get away with the driver with a harsher but further out breakup. the reason i still chose the carbon over the poly is mostly because of the off axis response


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Running the power wire will take some imagination.The silver module doesn't get in the way so much as the metal case around the battery and there's not enough room for an aftermarket terminal.


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## Scorch95 (Feb 9, 2009)

Looking forward to more progress photos and your opinion once everything is installed.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Scorch95 said:


> Looking forward to more progress photos and your opinion once everything is installed.


Thanks,going to take a few months probably.I'm traveling 3 hours each way to work on it.She wants to swap cars with me so I can do it at home but I don't trust her with regards to smoking in my car.That thing would smell like an ashtray after a month,Yuck!!


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## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

JH1973 said:


> She wants to swap cars with me so I can do it at home but I don't trust her with regards to smoking in my car.That thing would smell like an ashtray after a month,Yuck!!


That smell never goes away. It sinks in and stays.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Heading out tonight and will work on it all day tomorrow.Goal for tomorrow is to get the whole back area sound deadened and amp rack/sub enclosure framed ready for fiberglass.Of course this is car audio and VERY rarely do things go as planned.I'll probably end up getting one of the trim panels off and a small piece of CLD on.

I've never worked with MDF but the material seems like it calls for course threads so I'll be using 1 5/8 drywall screws(CT).Stuff smells dam good in my car though....lol.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

T-harness to get the line levels from stock HU.The signal was pretty dam clean during the test set up.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Came a little short on my goal for today but got a lot done.The stock trim panels actually have a decent decoupling material already but I still used CCF over the clip holes to help prevent rattles and tighten the area up.I know some after market clips come with a gasket where the plastic meets the sheet metal.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got a lot of CLD on.Using Kolossus by KnuKonceptz.This stuff is packaged very nicely and is a nice thick quality.Still can't believe how cheap it is compared to Dynamat and quite frankly it's much easier to work with.

Tons of curvature in the back area so it was time consuming to say the least.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I'd really like to get this spare tire hump out but it's spot welded in there.If I can't get it out then I may have to ditch the fiberglass plan and just build a box around it.Not totally sure yet.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

A Dremel muti-max, or the like, will make quick work of those spot welds. A little paint afterwards and fiberglass away.


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## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

For those 12s, even if you lose that thing you will need some more space. Maybe consider going a little above the stock level for the rear area, while still keeping it nice and presentable, with good storage space. You could even keep the tire.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

GEM592 said:


> For those 12s, even if you lose that thing you will need some more space. Maybe consider going a little above the stock level for the rear area, while still keeping it nice and presentable, with good storage space. You could even keep the tire.


Yep,I'm going to have to raise the stock floor level no matter what but without that hump in there it makes for easier install.Can't keep the tire in there cause I'd have to raise the stock floor way too much.The other option was shallow mount typeR's and at $600 a piece....well......I think I'll just raise the floor a little,thank you...lol


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## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

I say use the space. If you take the trouble to make it look good and it sounds right, you will not regret it.

Weight can be an issue, depending on the car. Use mostly fiberglass, and save the mdf just for the top.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Out here working on this thing for a few days.Had a real crappy day cause the MDF was splitting on me.Made a thread about in the GDF and learned that you can't use course drywall screws in this stuff.Think we're going to Home Depot and getting some Baltic birch tomorrow cause I don't have a pnuematic set up.Need a material that can handle course screws.

Got the spare tire hump out and finished the sound deadening in the amp rack area.Power wire runs under the car in a wire loom and up through a nice big grommet in the back drivers side wheel area.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

This was the main frame for amp rack and subs but now will only serve as templates for whatever material we go with.My MDF "knowledge" failed me .....


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I didn't respond in your mdf thread as we got to talking about other product options but Lowe's sells some real good screws for mdf. They come in little clear containers. They are by the trim screws. They are black with square heads. They are a bit thinner than regular screws. Bugle phosphate trim screws.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Amp rack/sub enclosure all framed and ready for glass.Ended up going with ACX sanded 3/4 ply.Stuff is pretty solid and I'm going to glass all the sides too so that should strengthen it even more.Plan on glassing tomorrow and calling it quits for this trip.I'm worn out!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

3 layers of chop mat.Going to let it cure for a while before I pull it from the car.It was a bit cold today so I used a light to help set it up quicker between layers.

Fiberglass is not easy to work with and some of those air bubbles in the tight corners were just not budging.I would poke holes and try filling with resin but it just wasn't working that great.Did the best I could.


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

That glass work looks great!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

SPLEclipse said:


> That glass work looks great!


I appreciate that,thank you!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Added 2 more layers of mat so total of 5 layers 1.5 oz chopped strand.All fiberglassing materials were purchased from US Composites(thanks Nick).

Pulled the mold out,what a chore! Even with 3 coats of partall paste half the tape came out with it.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Out here for a few days this weekend and had a descent day today.Added a center brace to the sub enclosure even though it was as stiff as a brick.Actually wanted to get more support for the baffle.I used a 1x and fiberglassed it in at the bottom and top where it meets the upper cross brace.The box without the brace was right at 2cu ft so with the brace it's probably around 1.9 or so.Think I'll end up doing a layer of polyfill.

After that I covered the spare tire well with Ensolite CCF to fight vibrations.Got the stuff from RAAM audio and I gotta say this stuff is great.Very easy to work with and best of all it has a self adhesive so it's peel and stick,love it!

Having a problem with Chrome,it's not letting me upload pictures.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Anybody know what causes this?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Dude.. GREAT job, especially for your first time.

Ps, make an imgur account and use that to host photos. Much better. 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> Dude.. GREAT job, especially for your first time.
> 
> Ps, make an imgur account and use that to host photos. Much better.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks Nick....I got the Imgur app and am a little confused as to how I use it to post photos here??


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Ok,figured it out.Kinda cumbersome from a smart phone.Probably easier from a PC.









As I said this CCF is super sweet to work with.Thanks for the recommendation Nick


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

After the CCF I cut the new floor and got the hinges mounted.Fits perfectly and the hinges are super sturdy,was very pleased with how this turned out.Still have to hit it with the router and cut the vents for the subs and amp cooling plus carpet and paint.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

That wraps it up for this trip.Got up today and cut the sub baffle holes.Used hurricane nuts and lock-tite.








Set up the amp rack configuration and drilled the wire holes.Lots of pencil notes on the wood,got pretty confusing....lol


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Also got the wire terminals installed for the subs which I got from PE.I like the satin nickel look.Used lock-tite on the wood to try and prevent spinning from vibration.I drilled through the glass on the inside so that the pressure would be on the wood and not the glass.Was afraid the glass would crack from the pressure.


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## JamesRC (Sep 18, 2017)

This thread is awesome. Sub'd!

I have a very similar trunk setup in my Rogue. Right now I just have a sealed box in the spare wheel well with amp and DSP mounted to the side. All of Nick's installs and FB and Team Zapco's have me wanting to do something similar to yours though!

Quick question for you. Why are you fiberglassing the bottom of your sub frame? is that whole setup going to become your "box"?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Right before I left I pulled the trim pieces off the hatch door.This whole area will need some good deadening cause it's a rattle trap waiting to happen.Going to take my time back here and do the best I can to firm things up.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

JamesRC said:


> This thread is awesome. Sub'd!
> 
> I have a very similar trunk setup in my Rogue. Right now I just have a sealed box in the spare wheel well with amp and DSP mounted to the side. All of Nick's installs and FB and Team Zapco's have me wanting to do something similar to yours though!
> 
> Quick question for you. Why are you fiberglassing the bottom of your sub frame? is that whole setup going to become your "box"?


Not quite sure what your question is but I'll try to answer.The whole box is basically 2 separated chambers,that being amp rack and sub enclosure.It's all within one framework.As far as glassing the floor in this thing is super curvy and funky.I needed roughly 2cuft and using all wood or MDF would have made the design more "bulky" cause I would have lost too much area on the bottom.Glassing made it possible to have the cubes I needed in a much more efficient way.Plus the glass is supported behind itself via the sheet metal floor and sides.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Still have had no luck finding a good carpet match for the false floor.The unbacked carpet seems to come in standard colors from most sellers and the stock color in this Terrain is not standard.It's like a dark gray/black and not quite charcoal.Even went to the local car audio shop and looked through all of their samples.Stockinteriors.com sent me a perfect match but their stuff comes with poly-backing which makes stretching and bending the stuff impossible.May just have to settle with standard black.I don't want to but I'm kind of running out of options as far as carpeting goes.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

JH1973 said:


> Still have had no luck finding a good carpet match for the false floor.The unbacked carpet seems to come in standard colors from most sellers and the stock color in this Terrain is not standard.It's like a dark gray/black and not quite charcoal.Even went to the local car audio shop and looked through all of their samples.Stockinteriors.com sent me a perfect match but their stuff comes with poly-backing which makes stretching and bending the stuff impossible.May just have to settle with standard black.I don't want to but I'm kind of running out of options as far as carpeting goes.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Looking good. Seems I like I have done this before . Dig your t harness to bypass the factory amp. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JamesRC (Sep 18, 2017)

JH1973 said:


> Not quite sure what your question is but I'll try to answer.The whole box is basically 2 separated chambers,that being amp rack and sub enclosure.It's all within one framework.As far as glassing the floor in this thing is super curvy and funky.I needed roughly 2cuft and using all wood or MDF would have made the design more "bulky" cause I would have lost too much area on the bottom.Glassing made it possible to have the cubes I needed in a much more efficient way.Plus the glass is supported behind itself via the sheet metal floor and sides.


Gotcha. Sorry, I didn't frame the question very well. But yes, you answered it perfectly.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

optimaprime said:


> Looking good. Seems I like I have done this before . Dig your t harness to bypass the factory amp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I actually sell the T-harness kits for these Equinox and Terrains now.I have a stock amp bypass kit,sub integration harness(just adding a sub to stock stereo) and component speaker adapter harness for people who just want to install new components in the front.Been selling a lot of them too.Think people like the convenience of it and they don't have to hunt wire color functions down.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

JH1973 said:


> Thanks! I actually sell the T-harness kits for these Equinox and Terrains now.I have a stock amp bypass kit,sub integration harness(just adding a sub to stock stereo) and component speaker adapter harness for people who just want to install new components in the front.Been selling a lot of them too.Think people like the convenience of it and they don't have to hunt wire color functions down.




That's awesome!!! Would grab one from ya if I still had the equinox


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the rear hatch door all sound deadened and it's rock solid now.I felt it was very important to get this door solid because of close it is to the subs.Got a lot more CLD on the outer skin than I figured I could which was nice.I'd say there's about 75% coverage.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Used CCF on the wire clips to prevent rattles and also on the door clips to really tighten them up.Tried using both CLD and CCF on the panel clip holes in the sheet metal but it didn't work cause the thickness prevented the clip from fully seating.
























And finally the finished hatch door....


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finished up for this trip.Got both rear doors deadened.Didn't go too crazy with the CLD on the rear doors cause there won't be any sound coming from them as this is going to be a 2-way front with no rear fill.Really just wanted to get the outer skins nice and solid.Nice access holes made it pretty easy as I probably got around 80% coverage.Doors are a dead thunk now....<img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Passenger rear....


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

FWIW....When I was removing the water shield on the driver's side I sliced my thumb open with the razor blade.It felt great! Blood everywhere.Just a reminder(to myself too)to be careful when your doing this stuff....Take your time and pay attention to what you're doing.


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## rayray881 (Jul 15, 2013)

No install is complete without a little blood!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Taking advantage of the 3 day weekend out here.Got going on the front doors and pretty much finished the driver's side.Started by putting 2 layers of CLD on the outer skin and foam weatherstripping around the big hole preparing for sheet metal seal up.I'm not a believer in sealing up the holes as I did it in my Sentra and heard ZERO audible difference.However,I did have a lot left on roll so decided to do it anyway.This system is going to be relatively high powered so maybe it will help a little.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Used plastic to make the shape of the hole and just transferred it.Self tapping sheet metal screws did the trick just fine and for the door handle cable I wrapped the jagged edges in CCF to avoid cutting the cable cover.








Did I say I love this Kolossus CLD??? Stuff is awesome and I can't thank Nick enough for the recommendation.This door is quite sealed now and dam it's like opening and closing the door to a safe!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Hooray....the first piece of gear installed!! SB-17 on PVC baffle doubled(1-1/2 inches thick).This was by far the worst part of the day.Fitting this in here was brutal.Had to recut the bottom baffle after I realized it was sticking down too far.I just ended up tracing the factory baffle shape for the bottom board and a circle for the top baffle.It worked fine and hopefully the next door goes smoother.








Weatherstripping to marry the baffle to the door card grill ain't gonna cut it.This speaker is bigger than the stock and that causes the ring on the card to line up differently so I have to go buy different foam and get some sort of adhesive to hold it in place.Start the passenger side tomorrow.....


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finished up driver door.Got some different weatherstripping from Ace Hardware.Its pretty firm stuff but has a little bit of give.Then used lock-tite on a piece of fast ring foam inside the outer ring.

It's awefully hot outside and I'm not so sure I feel like going on the passenger door.I hate the Midwest weather!!








Finished door......


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

Very nice, tell us how it sounds!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

GreatLaBroski said:


> Very nice, tell us how it sounds!


Right now everything is running on the stock amp.I faded to the front and was balancing left to right.Honestly not much difference between the stock untreated side and the finished driver side.It sounds good,don't get me wrong but the real test is going to be when I'm powering these with 600w of Zapco goodness....??


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Somehow got myself out there and got the passenger door done.Pretty much the same process as the driver's side except for one difference.I realized I was going to be short on the Kolossus CLD.Good thing I brought my stash of Dynamat as a backup.Used it as the second layer on the outer skin and finished the inner with the Kolossus which worked out better because it's much easier to see markings for cutouts.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)




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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finished door....well.....one of the clips won't go in and I think it's because that speaker foam is sticking out just a bit too far and it's holding the panel back a little.Getting that stuff just right is so hard and I haven't figured a method out yet.I may have to go back in and trim the foam to get that clip to seat.









I cut the terminal from the stock speakers and soldered them with some wire to the SB's.Didnt have to cut the stock wire that way and didn't want to because GM loves to wrap the hell out of their wire with cloth tape!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Wow,half of my posts vanished here! Are they ever going to come back up?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Have had a long layup with this project because my father passed away recently.Just haven't had any motivation to come out here and work on this.Nonetheless I made myself come out and get something done.

I got all the wiring prepped and inserted into the looms.One loom contains the tweeter and front speaker wires and the other loom contains the signal wires,remote turn on,bass knob wire and DSP control wire.Probably going to mount the controls on the plastic plate directly below the steering wheel but I'm not totally sure yet.We'll see when I get everything pulled apart.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get these looms ran under the carpet and both tweeters installed.Thats the goal for tomorrow anyway.....








These harnesses make it simple to bypass the factory amp,using the stock signal and speaker outputs to the front doors.I simply pull the male connectors from the stock amp and plug them into these female harnesses.Then run the wiring to the aftermarket gear.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got all the wiring ran under the carpet today and mounted the tweeters to the A-pillar.They were too big for the stock cylinders so I cut them out.Ended up tacking them with loctite to the pillar itself then finishing it with hot glue.Once the cylinders were cut off the stock grills they fit right over the new tweeters.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get both sides wired and completely installed.The only wire I have left to run is the main ground.The rest is just terminating what is already ran.Im hoping to have this system done by the end of summer.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

I'm sorry about your father, hopefully you have lots of good memories to remember


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

niceguy said:


> I'm sorry about your father, hopefully you have lots of good memories to remember


Thank you


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I've got a few days off here so I came back out to tackle a few things.Still waiting on the dam carpet for the false floor so that's on hold for now.The company I ordered it from is horrendously slow with shipping.Its either that or USPS dropped the ball.

Anyhow,got the power cord and fuse done at the battery.I just drilled a hole and bolted the lug right to the stock terminal.Worked out pretty good I thought.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Also got the switched 12v done at the interior fuse panel.Just added a circuit from the back and used a 3amp fuse.I liked doing it this way instead of using one of those fuse taps cause it looks totally stock from the front.Those fuse taps just look kind of cheesy to me.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the main ground finished too.Grinded the paint down to bare metal on this angled piece of sheet metal that felt very solid.I got some really good readings at this spot so I went with it.0 resistance and 12.54 volts.Doesnt get much better than that as far as I'm concerned.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

At the end of the day we got the struts figured out for the false floor.All that's left to do on this is finish up the amp/sub box and wire up the DSP,amps and subs.Also gotta finish the false floor(paint,carpet and venting) which will be time consuming.We're getting there........


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

That wraps it up for this visit.Did some prep work on the false floor,basically cut the vent openings for amplifiers and subs and routed the outer perimeter.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Mounted the top plates on the box as well.Used liquid nails for the sub baffle,hopefully it seals everything nicely.This is an approximately 2 cubic foot sealed enclosure for two 12" Alpine Type R's.My moms going to paint the inner trim and outside of the box before I get back to carpet the sub baffle and amp shelf.Going 2-tone with a dark gray carpet and black duratex.The false floor will hopefully have a matching stock color(dark graphite).I just have to get the stuff from this place already....GRRRR


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Pretty good stuff. How do like the Terrain?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Theslaking said:


> Pretty good stuff. How do like the Terrain?


This car actually isn't mine but I do like the Terrains and Equinoxes.The interior is pretty sharp in both but I like the exterior on the Terrain better.I've ridden in this one several times(it's my mother's) and it's got a descent ride.Has a solid feeling and also got some balls too.Doing the install in it hasn't been too bad either,just time consuming because of the long distance thing.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got out last weekend and finished the exterior of the box.Also got the wiring all terminated at amps and DSP.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Upon intial turn on disaster struck! The monoblock and DSP we're on just fine but the 6 channel was in protect and we could smell burning up front somewhere.One of the tweeters made that squealing sound too just before they blow.

Obviously I got out the DMM and started testing.The amp was getting quite hot so I disconnected the main fuse and killed everything.The culprit ended up being the front left tweeter +wire.It was grounded to chassis.Turns out there is a bolt that grounds the airbag I believe and the tweeter + connection was touching there.

So after fixing that problem the amps and DSP we're turning on and off like they should.The tweeter was completely roasted hence the burning smell and squealing sound up front.Then a new problem....No output whatsoever anywhere.Go up front and the radio functions are kinda haywire.Can't turn the volume up and down,can't change radio stations and after loading a CD it keeps flashing back and forth from the track playing to loading screen.Basically the head unit is going haywire and it's not putting out any sound.

So I go back to the inputs at the DSP and test for voltage.Nothing at all and then for giggles switch the DMM to DC and get a 3.90 read!!!!! WTF man! I was getting pretty frustrated at this point and decided to call it a night.Got up the next day and went directly to the low levels coming from the stock HU and was getting nothing AC or DC.

So I'm figuring I fried the stock HU and am going to get a new one.I order the new one and just got it yesterday.Next time I go out there I'll be installing this new HU and more than likely I'll need to go to the dealership and have them program it.Hipefully not but I think it's going to have to get done.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the stock HU pulled and put the new one in.Immediately got door chimes(good sign) which the old one was not producing.Of course the new unit is locked so tomorrow morning gotta head to the dealership and have it programmed.

When I get back I'll be testing all the Zapco equipment before hooking the stock system back into it.FWIW,the old HU has the band-aid smell where the main connector goes in.I find it very bizarre that the tweeter wire being grounded did that much damage all the way up the chain like that.Anybody got any thoughts on that?


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

i didnt have any issues when i did mine. i tapped my signal right factory amp and ran that back to the older zapco dc amps. i did have door chime problems where all chimes where amplified and i used clean sweep to fix that .


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

optimaprime said:


> i didnt have any issues when i did mine. i tapped my signal right factory amp and ran that back to the older zapco dc amps. i did have door chime problems where all chimes where amplified and i used clean sweep to fix that .


Did you send the factory low level signal into the high level inputs of the amps and clean sweep?I measured 6.2v from the stock signal....that's high! I think I'm overdriving the Z8 processor.Im going to try a few things this weekend.First going to try using the high level in of the processor and if that don't work I bought a nice DD Audio SC4 LOC.Then ultimately I can try my Sony HU that only sends 1.2v tops.

Everything sounds ok at lower levels but when we crank on it there's distortion.Something just isn't right,like I said,I think the low level in's of the Z8 are being overcooked with that high signal voltage.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Originally i took signal from factory headunit to my amps as the signal is flat there . It's all processed in factory amp. There's great right up on equinox terrian forum where guy did massive build for Arc audio . And explains it all . It's been 4 years ago I did this build. I only used a clean sweep to help with factory chimes . Wife hated how loud they where and clean sweep fixed it for me . 


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

optimaprime said:


> Originally i took signal from factory headunit to my amps as the signal is flat there . It's all processed in factory amp. There's great right up on equinox terrian forum where guy did massive build for Arc audio . And explains it all . It's been 4 years ago I did this build. I only used a clean sweep to help with factory chimes . Wife hated how loud they where and clean sweep fixed it for me .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah,I read that whole thread several times.Fred Lynch is the guy who built that system and I talked to him on the phone.Though he did state that the signal from the stock HU is very good he never stated how strong it was.Like I said above,it measured 6.2v which is pretty strong.I think it's too strong for the low level inputs of my Z8 processor which has an input sensitivity range from 800mv-4v.We'll see this weekend.......


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

JH1973 said:


> Yeah,I read that whole thread several times.Fred Lynch is the guy who built that system and I talked to him on the phone.Though he did state that the signal from the stock HU is very good he never stated how strong it was.Like I said above,it measured 6.2v which is pretty strong.I think it's too strong for the low level inputs of my Z8 processor which has an input sensitivity range from 800mv-4v.We'll see this weekend.......




I did have resistors in line with Rockford fosgate RCA's I used .I just remembered that ! 30 ohm I think?? I still the harness I built for it . Just Rockford's low level rcas and made harness out of them. 


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

optimaprime said:


> I did have resistors in line with Rockford fosgate RCA's I used .I just remembered that ! 30 ohm I think?? I still the harness I built for it . Just Rockford's low level rcas and made harness out of them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah,I bought some 30ohm resistors too but I'm not using them.I think that's more of a safety precaution than anything.Basically they are there to fool the HU into thinking it's going into a load of some type so as to prevent long term damage to the stock outputs.I talked to another guy who did a build on an Equinox and he didn't use them and had no problems in the 4 years he ran that system.

Fred did mention that if you decide to run the outputs into a LOC then be sure to use a descent quality one as they will have sufficient loads in them.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Yup!!! 


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finally got it figured out with help from Nick(Skizer).HU puts out 6.6v unclipped on most frequencies recorded at 0db.I think the voltage is so strong because it has a BTL output.Anyway the processor inputs max out at 4v,so I just found where 4v was on the HU which ended up being 37(out of 45).Then adjusted the outputs on each channel and sure enough,just like the specs say,they all pumped out 5v clean.Perfect for the amps because the inputs max at 5v.I was able to get a little more gain on the amps after that but not much.

I've never heard this much power in a system! It is unreal to me.Going to get the false floor done tomorrow hopefully and I'll be posting the final pics of this build.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Install is complete on this thing(Finally)..! The bass control knob is on the dash plate by the left knee and the DSP control is right by the ignition.This thing has 10 presets..........


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Stock amplifier bypass harnesses installed.Brown is the low levels and green is the 2 front door speaker outs.I only used 2 speaker outs and 2 channels of full range signal.Just FYI in these vehicles there is a total of 4 full range signals and 4 speaker outs.If you plan on doing a build in one of these or an Equinox from years 2010-2017 I sell several different harness kits for them.Whether you just want to add a subwoofer,add component speakers to the front or want to do a full amplifier bypass I have the T-harness to suit your needs.Just send me a PM....


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

False floor has 2 hidden vents for the subs and 2 vents for the amplifiers.Really pleased with how the carpet matched the stock interior.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Finished amp rack and sub enclosure.Alpine TypeR's(12's) in a 2 cubic ft sealed enclosure.Zapco ST6X running the tweeters and mids.Zapco SM2000 on the subs,Zapco Z8 IV and TSpec power/ground distro blocks.

Originally I was going to bridge the 4 channels to throw 300w on each door but I like the way it sounds only using 2 channels at 100w each.Much cleaner and not worried about blowing the drivers.Subs are wired in series-parallel at a 2ohm final pulling 1500w.The amp is capable of a 1ohm load at 2000w.Tweeters are getting 100w each off the 6 channel.So we're pushing around 1900w of Zapco goodness and I say goodness because this thing sounds fantastic! I'd never heard Zapco systems before and I was taking a chance with this one.Not disappointed one bit and I'd like to say thank you to Nick(Skizer) for picking the majority of this set up and helping me along the way.He is a great guy and we're lucky to have him here.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Apparently my mother wanted to add her own little touch to the amp rack....I'll add better pictures later plus I'm changing something on the door speakers.


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Love this picture, now lets see with the panel down, totally stealth! Great choice on the equipment those type R's are so underrated I love those!


JH1973 said:


> Finished amp rack and sub enclosure.Alpine TypeR's(12's) in a 2 cubic ft sealed enclosure.Zapco ST6X running the tweeters and mids.Zapco SM2000 on the subs,Zapco Z8 IV and TSpec power/ground distro blocks.
> 
> Originally I was going to bridge the 4 channels to throw 300w on each door but I like the way it sounds only using 2 channels at 100w each.Much cleaner and not worried about blowing the drivers.Subs are wired in series-parallel at a 2ohm final pulling 1500w.The amp is capable of a 1ohm load at 2000w.Tweeters are getting 100w each off the 6 channel.So we're pushing around 1900w of Zapco goodness and I say goodness because this thing sounds fantastic! I'd never heard Zapco systems before and I was taking a chance with this one.Not disappointed one bit and I'd like to say thank you to Nick(Skizer) for picking the majority of this set up and helping me along the way.He is a great guy and we're lucky to have him here.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I just modeled the Type R against the JL W6 in Bassbox Pro and it models as good or better than the JL. Nice looking build too.


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## reithi (Mar 29, 2012)

Sorry about your Dad.

Awesome build.......nice and simple. It has really motivated me to get started on my wife's Cruze.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Changed the stock connector to the front speakers.Instead of having the short wire lengths I soldered it directly to the speaker spades.Much cleaner and more solid connection.This connector just plugs directly into the stock harness inside the door.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Well,my mom added another decoration......hey,it's her car right?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Here's a good photo of the vehicle.Noticed I didn't have a descent one posted.


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

Nice build! Hope your mom loves it ?


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## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

Excellent build log! I made it thru the whole thing tonight! You put in some serious work on it. Sorry to hear about your dad passing.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

truckguy said:


> Excellent build log! I made it thru the whole thing tonight! You put in some serious work on it. Sorry to hear about your dad passing.


Thanks Brad,I appreciate that.It was great meeting you this weekend at the meet.Benny Z is a character,isn't he? It was nice of him to jump in my ride at the end and give it some small tweaks via the HU.You were right,he operates so quickly it's mind boggling.....lol

Still got a few small things I want to do with this Terrain.I EQ'ed and level matched it yesterday but discovered a few problems that need attention.One of them is the hidden vents for the subs.I have to somehow stiffen them up because on heavy bass songs at high volumes they make noise from too much movement.I've got some ideas on how to remedy that.I also want to add a few fans to the amp rack because that 6X runs VERY hot and when it's bridged it shuts down after a while.For now I've just got the front channels running at a normal 100w and this seems to keep it from heating up too much by putting out less power.At least that's what I think the problem is cause I checked for voltage drop and there was no problem there.Other possibilities are too thin of speaker wire or drivers not able to handle that kind of power? I'm not totally sure but I know that adding a few fans couldn't hurt anything.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

So here is the system response after the first full tune over a few days.There are some trouble spots that I'm scratching my head over.That dip at 350 and the strange rolloff starting around 6500.Both tweeters were doing the same thing so it's obvious there's an install issue or something.The only thing I did that eliminated the 350 dip was inverted the left mid but then everything sounded like [email protected]


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Added 2 crossflow fans to the amp rack.These things work great as the air flows across and up through the vents.Amps barely get warm now as where before the 6X was getting HOT to the touch and going into thermal shutdown when bridged.I had no idea that fans could do such a good job keeping the amps cool.


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Which fans did you use?

What are your crossover points?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

nyquistrate said:


> Which fans did you use?
> 
> What are your crossover points?


The fans are PAC CF-1 and Xover points are......

Tweets----2600(24db)
Mids----80(24db)----1900(12db)
Subs----80(24db)


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Well,I've decided to do a makeover on the front stage.Going with a 3-way front.Modding the A-pillars installing a 3" mid-range and tweeter.So I'll end up using the 6-channel Zapco the way it was meant to be used.Not 100% sure on which drivers I'm going with just yet but there are a few I have in mind.

Was fortunate enough to find some A-pillars at a junk yard so if and when the vehicle gets sold we could just put the stock pillars back in.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I decided and purchased the midranges.Going with AudioFrog GB25's.Still not sure about the tweeters but I'll figure something out.Gotta get in there and do some testing and see what kind of responses I get with a different set of tweeters.I don't like the rolloff at 6k the current Seas have in it.That rolloff occurs in both tweeters even with the mic directly in front of them.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

The goodness arrived today.........still not sure about tweeters


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the rings all cut,beveled and glued together.I just made a circle jig myself out of some plastic I had laying around.

Learned my lesson about buying Chinese garbage router bits off Amazon.Broke 2 of them cutting the first few rings.I don't think they handled the heat real well.Took a trip down to Ace Hardware and got a real bit finally.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Perfect fits for the silver trim ring that comes with the GB's but a little loose on the Seas tweeters.Just going to shim something inside to hold them firmer.There's a screwhole in the back of them so the real mount will be a backstrap attached to the ring.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Just going to keep the actual mounting simple and aim them around 45 degrees into the interior.If I did them totally on axis it would be too large and bulky.

Edit....Still not sure on aiming them.Maybe separate the rings,putting the tweeter on axis and the GB at 45? That would take up less space.Anybody got any ideas?


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Now that you have the GB25 and need tweeters you have to go all out and get the GB10. Then since you are getting the GB10 and have the GB25 you will have to get the GB60 and then GB12 to match those, lol. You won’t be disappointed and then they will match. 

Nice build BTW, you put a lot of hard work into that one.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Going to be starting the Pillar fabbing in the morning.Got the GB mounting ring attached to the MDF rings and also the tweeter backstraps.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the rings mounted to the pillars.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

First pillar ready for glass.What a freaking bear wrapping this thing! Had to do a few patch jobs at the end,it was just impossible to avoid wrinkles with all the curves in this thing.Wrapping the next one won't be any easier!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Pillars fiberglassed....gotta clean em up and then it's the fun part,body filler....
I don't know about finishing these things,seriously thinking about sending them out to a professional.Still not sure


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

JH1973 said:


> Pillars fiberglassed....gotta clean em up and then it's the fun part,body filler....
> I don't know about finishing these things,seriously thinking about sending them out to a professional.Still not sure





Rage gold filler and lots and lots and lots of time sanding. 


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Cleaned up and ready for the filler....


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Redliner99 said:


> JH1973 said:
> 
> 
> > Pillars fiberglassed....gotta clean em up and then it's the fun part,body filler....<img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />
> ...


Why Rage Gold?


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

JH1973 said:


> Why Rage Gold?




The best filler I have ever used. Sands so nice no pin holes it does amazing things. 


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Redliner99 said:


> JH1973 said:
> 
> 
> > Why Rage Gold?
> ...


Thanks very much for the tip,much appreciated!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Before I start the filler I had to grind a few high spots down where the dowels were sticking out and then I filled a few areas that were concaved with several layers of glass to even the sides around the pod.I don't want to rely too much on the body filler for thickness.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Letting that dry and I'll clean it up then start with the filler.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Filler I'll be using.I'm told this stuff is top notch.Originally I was going to just use Bondo brand from the hardware store but seems how I used US Composites tooling resin(top end stuff) why would I use anything less for filler,right?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Ready for filler


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

First coat of filler sanded.....holy Sh$& this is a lot of work.Gonns take me all day to get this one done.Next going over with another coat of filler,getting the low spots and more......... SANDING!!!!


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Using quick connects for hook-up.Tweeter has a female and mid has a male so when hooking up the pillars and taking them out it's impossible to hook them up backwards


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Pillars are finally finished,I'll post more photos when the speakers are in and installed in the vehicle.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Got the speakers mounted.I really like the way they turned out......Toby Broadfield did an amazing job finishing these.Big shout out to him and Mobile Audio Plus in Bloomington.


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## compuwiz1937 (Jun 5, 2017)

That is seriously impressive work. Even more impressive that it's for your mom! My mom couldn't care less. Even my wife isn't much interested but her car is getting a two way system anyway.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

compuwiz1937 said:


> That is seriously impressive work. Even more impressive that it's for your mom! My mom couldn't care less. Even my wife isn't much interested but her car is getting a two way system anyway.


Thank you! Yeah,my mom is actually the one who introduced me to "loud" music.She always had nice receivers in the house,I remember a Harman Kardan set-up in the Rec-room that absolutely rocked our house.When I did an active two-way in my Sentra and had her sit and listen she absolutely begged me to do a system in her Terrain....lol.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Installed finally.........


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## tfunk182 (Jun 3, 2019)

How did the 3 way measure compared to when you had the dips and roll off on the 2 way setup.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

tfunk182 said:


> How did the 3 way measure compared to when you had the dips and roll off on the 2 way setup.


I still haven't EQ'ed the system so I don't know.Audibly it is night and day so I imagine the measurements will reflect that. Once I EQ it I'll post the results.


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