# Compression vs set screw vs ring terminal. Which is better?



## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

For battery terminals. I've seen some knuconceptz battery terminals with 3x 1/0 outputs (And an extra 4awg screw in case you want one) for pretty cheap. $19 before shipping directly from them. Naturally a bit cheaper used, which I go for.

Anyways, they claim that the compression fitting is the best way to make contact with the wire. 

Right now I have some xscorpion set screw terminals on the main battery and some $4 clamps with 2 bolts on the second battery.

Is there any reason to get these compression terminals or should I just stick with the cheap autozone and xscorpion set screw terminals?


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## yogegoy (Feb 11, 2011)

It sort of works this way.

















I don't know ho to insert a video but this would be answering your question.
KnuKonceptz KNF60 Distribution Block Review.


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

yogegoy said:


> It sort of works this way.


Yeah I figured that out already.


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## yogegoy (Feb 11, 2011)

I bought the big one and the smaller version of the Knu distro block, for it's simplicity I know it's worth every penny.


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

yogegoy said:


> I bought the big one and the smaller version of the Knu distro block, for it's simplicity I know it's worth every penny.


Ok but my Question is about compression vs set screw vs ring terminal


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## theoldguy (Nov 17, 2009)

whichever one has the most surface area is "the best".


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

theoldguy said:


> whichever one has the most surface area is "the best".


That's exactly what I'm asking....


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

If you want the most secure connection with the most contact area, terminate your power wires with ring terminals. Crimp them AND solder them. I always do this with my installations.

May I recommend a battery terminal solution? StreetWires BC2P Battery Clamp (+) Positive | 263-626

Really pretty terminals with 2 posts for ring terminal connection. They also make a fused solution that is on crazy discount right now at PE. They must be closing them out? StreetWires BC2PF Fused Battery Clamp (+) AFS Type | 263-624

Stick with high quality connections at your battery. For a few bucks extra it's well worth the peace of mind.


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

captainobvious said:


> If you want the most secure connection with the most contact area, terminate your power wires with ring terminals. Crimp them AND solder them. I always do this with my installations.
> 
> May I recommend a battery terminal solution? StreetWires BC2P Battery Clamp (+) Positive | 263-626
> 
> ...


Thanks for the detailed response!

I wish you posted sooner. :mean:

I already bought 2 of the knuconceptz terminals in the picture of my first post (2 for $20 with 3 extra 4awg inserts) and the negative terminal they have on the website for $12 shipped. They don't have the positive but maybe I can ream the hole a bit to fit on the bigger post. These are great for the price IMO.











I will definitely try to get more terminals that let me put copper ring terminals in them from now on though. Thanks for the input.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

If I'm doing something under hood I used either set screw or crimps... The key to a connection is the way you install it. A good crimp should be almost as strong as the wire. 

I smear the wire with dielectric grease before I terminate any connection and they look like new even years later. Resistance is the enemy in wire and keeping clean connections is key.

Unless you are using a power wire that's too small I doubt the subtle changes in termination types is going to affect it.


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## helpmeplease (Oct 6, 2012)

turbo5upra said:


> If I'm doing something under hood I used either set screw or crimps... The key to a connection is the way you install it. A good crimp should be almost as strong as the wire.
> 
> I smear the wire with dielectric grease before I terminate any connection and they look like new even years later. Resistance is the enemy in wire and keeping clean connections is key.
> 
> Unless you are using a power wire that's too small I doubt the subtle changes in termination types is going to affect it.


Nothing is under the hood for me. 2010 hhr. Both batteries are next to the spare tire. Amps are over the spare tire. Longest line to any amp is 3'. Sub amp has 2' of 1/0 OFC. I could probably get away with 4awg ofc with that short. I'm on stock alt so it really doesn't matter anyway I guess.

I have all my wire wrapped in braided sleeving and heat shrink on the ends. 

I definitely like lugs though. Set screws tend to dirty up the ends if you take them out a lot.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

I think it's time I test my dielectric theory- it's meant to insulate- although I've never had an issue I think I need to put it to a test and see if I'm inhibiting current flow.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I've used those exact battery terminals in the past actually. A couple of things to watch out for... The terminals are not always a correct, snug fit on the battery terminals. As in, mine would not get tight enough to provide reliable contact. (Note the 1/8inch at best you have of room to tighten the piece to the battery terminal) In addition, the allen key screws used are a little soft and can strip fairly easily if over torqued.

Hopefully, yours will be better quality than the ones I used.


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## THEDUKE (Aug 25, 2008)

The answer to the original question. Compression fittings are the best type out of the three you listed.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

THEDUKE said:


> The answer to the original question. Compression fittings are the best type out of the three you listed.


I'm curious why you believe so?


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Solder into a marine copper lug (copper tinned with AL-U-MIN-EEUM for corrosion prevention).


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