# Equalizer and Active Crossover in 3-Way System



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Hey whats up folks,

Well this is my first active system, and you can check out my other build thread to get some background info on what exactly I have going on, but I have a question to ask about a certain crossover and its compatibility with an equalizer. 
You see, like I said, I have never done an active system before, and therefore I have never used an electronic active crossover before either. 

The reason I am going to finally attempt an active system is because I want to build the best stereo system possible to go with the rest of the truck. "Go big or go home" has become my de-facto motive everytime I start designing certain aspects of the truck. 
​(the truck is going to be a completely custom build. Built Corvette LS2 engine, custom Long Travel suspension "PreRunner style", a custom fiberglass/carbon fiber interior: dash, door panels, console, headliner, pillars, kickpanels, basically all panels,etc, One-off 'glass 1-piece front end, bedsides, and rollpan, Pojector HID headlights, All LED lighting throughout truck)

So with all of that said,I am designing an active 3-way system that will consist of 2 - 8" Dayton RS225 midbass drivers, my 4 - Infinity Perfect 6.5's from the component sets, 2 - 3"/or 4" Dayton midranges and 1" Tweeters (undetermined still). For subwoofers I will be using my Infinity Perfect 10dvq's (2 of them).

Since the amps are all Hifonics, which I have always been very happy with, I was looking at the Hifonics HFXR 2/3way Crossover. Here is the info on it:

Hifonics HFXR 2-way / 3-way Active Crossover with Remote Bass

2-Way/3-Way Electronic Crossover, 
Select 2-channel or 4-channel inputs with switch
Bass boost (0-12dB @ 45Hz)
Max pre-amp output: 8.5-Volts RMS
45Hz Bass boost with quasi-parametric EQ
Can be used with mono or stereo woofers
180-degree phase-shift switch
Front channel high-pass frequency: 32-400Hz in the x1 position, 640-8,000Hz in the x20 position
Rear channel high-pass frequency: 32-400Hz
Front, rear and subwoofer level adjustments
Front and rear inputs with front, rear and subwoofer outputs
2-Channel full-range RCA Pre-amp output
Rear signal output

Now what I am trying to figure out is: 
Will this particular Crossover work with the system I described as a 3-way active set-up?

With crossovers like this one that have Front, Rear, and Subwoofer outputs, can you still use them with your tweets/midrange/midbass? 
Would you just connect your tweeters to 'front' (x20 = 640-8,000Hz), midrange to 'rear' and midbass to 'subwoofer'?? If not is there another way to hook it up? Or does it NOT work like that??

What exactly is the Phase Inverter, and how would it be used in my system? How would I want to adjust it?

And lastly, another thing I really want to know, is will this Crossover be compatible with my Hifonics HFEQ Equalizer?? Or is it something that maybe I wouldn't exact;y need with this HFXR Crossover installed??

Well, sorry if this is a long post. I just believe that when asking for help or advice, it is a good thing to provide as much information and details as possible to get a decent answer.
Also, I apologize if this is a 'dumb' question to some of you. I really dont know the answers and I have been searching all over the place for a week now trying to answer this myself. I even tied to call up Hifonics but I didnt get any answers. Yes I am a ''N00B'' and I am sure this is probably a n00b question to most of you guys.
So thanks in advance for any responses/answers/info/opinions/etc. Hell, thanks for even taking the time to read this!! Lol
Take care guys and have a great weekend!


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Schnikes! That's a lot of speakers. Maybe you should start at the beginning. What do you already own? List all amps, speakers, and HU. Now, where do you plan to put all these speakers? Who is installing/fabricating all this? Have you looked at build logs to see the amount of work is required to do this?

If I understand what you are trying to do then n, that crossover would just be a waste of money. You will need these xover points/slopes: sub LP, low range mid HP, low range mid LP, mid HP, mid LP, and tweeter HP. That's more in the capability range of an dedicated DSP unit like the MS-8...BitOne...360.3...etc.


----------



## ATOMICTECH62 (Jan 24, 2009)

I think what you are trying to do is go 5way active,but you cant use that crossover.
you need to run bandpass on the 8's,6.5's and 4's.
You can use the sub out on your deck then use a 4way crossover on the rest connected to the front out on your deck.
There are only a few good true 4way's out there.I think you might be able to use the PPI FRX-456 and even then you will be using the sub out for the 8's.
This is just a starting piont.
10's 70 hz low pass.
8's 70-300 hz band pass.
6.5's 300-1000hz band pass.
4's 1000-5000hz band pass.
tweeters 5000hz high pass.
This is just to give you an idea at what you are looking at if you try it.
You will be shooting in the dark trying to set gains without a scope and signal generator.
And might have serious phase issues.
And yes you can run the EQ between the front out of the deck and the input of the crossover but you will not be able to control the sub with it,the sub controls in the deck will take care of that.


----------



## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

schmiddr2 said:


> Schnikes! That's a lot of speakers.



^Agreed. 

That is a lot of speakers for any car, let alone a sports coupe. If you are planning to run dedicated midbass, what you actually have is a four-way system:

1- Tweeter channels
2 - Midrange channels
3- Midbass channels
4- subwoofer channel

That xover does not appear to be capable of bandpass outputs for segments 2, 3 & 4. Tweeters don't typically require LPF on the top end of the spectrum, and if you install the subs in a sealed box, you might not need the HPF (aka - SSF) on the low end either.


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Thank you guys so much for those responses, Seriously! 
Okay starting from the top:

So far, the equipment I have is:

-JVC KD AVX77
-2 sets of Infinity Perfect 6.5" Compnents (4 speakers, 2 tweets, 2 x/o's)
- Hifonics ZXI150.4 (150w x 4 @ 4ohm, 300w x 4 @ 2ohm)
-2x 10" Infinity DVQ Subwoofers
-Hifnoics BRZ1200.1D Sub Amp
** This is left over from my previous system. I would Like to retain everything I have (because I paid for it all and would hate to not use it. But, whatever it takes to make the best system in the end I will do)**

I plan on putting the 6.5"s (all 4, 2 per door) in the door panels, and the 8" midbass drivers in the kickpanels. I would then run the 3" or 4" midranges plus the tweeters in the a-pillars, or in the dash.
**I will attatch pics to show, but I am making a full custom fiberglass interior including dash, console, door panels, headliner, a-pillar, etc (everything), And I designed the door panels to be ALOT wider than stock. From Door panel surface to metal inner door panel is 4-1/2". The same with the kickpanels, distance between the surface (where speaker would mount) to the metal cab behind the kickpanel is 3-3/4". Plus, the cab behind the kickpanel has a 4" cavity, I just need to cut out the opening a tad more to fit a magnet for an 8" midbass woofer. But the kickpanels will essentially be 7-3/4" solid, sealed enclosures with an estimated ~0.5cu ft. With some deadening in there, it really i a perfect enclosure there built into the oem cab.
So please see the pics for some what of an idea. Remember, there is a ton of room to fit basically any system I want, which is why I may be thinking too big LOL forgive me for doing that 

Like ATOMITECH62 said, I planned on running the 10" subwoofers off of the headunit, and the rest on a crossover.

What if I narrowed it down to this guys:
(Crossover has Front, ear, and Sub *sub is not fade-able*). So then,

10" (2)Subs on headunit's Sub Out, @ 70Hz on amp
8" (2)Dayton midbasses, to "Sub" output on Crossover, @ 70-300hz
6.5" (4)Infinity midranges, to "Rear" on Crossover, @ 300-1000Hz
4" (2) Dayton full-ranges AND (2) Goldwood GT52s Tweeters, to "Front" on Crossover **Would I be able to use a passive Crossover between the 4"s and the Tweeters here, and on the Active Crossover, have the Front output @ 5000Hz?**

I am really sorry for my lack of knowledge. I am honestly bustin' my butt trying to cram in as much info and researching as I can so I can better design a system.

I guess a much easier, simpler way to ask would be this:
-With my 2xInfinity Perfect components and my 2x Infinity Subwoofers, what would be a good way to make my system active, while adding some additional 8" Dayton midbass woofers and add something to the high's in my front stage?

I will start looking for 4-way active set-up's right after this. Its weid, because I have seen othe builds that seem similar to what I am trying to accomplish, and I think I have them figured out, but then learn I am way off on my understandings..


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Woops, I forgot to add the pics.. Here you guys go:


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Also, here is one system, for example.










He has a 3-way active setup with a crossover, and his subwoofers off of the deck.
So now, what if I did something like this, but instead of his midrange section(@1200-1500Hz), I used my 6.5"s (@ 300-1000Hz range) for my midrange section. Then, where he has his tweeters (@ 5-20kHz), I had my 4"s??? 

Is there a way to run both a 4"midrange Plus a tweeter together with a passive 2-way crossover where he has his tweeters in his layout?

The reason I ask, is because I have seen layouts of active systems where some people will have a set of components (6.5's and tweets using a passive xover) connected to a single output on an active crossover.

Again, sorry if my questions are "n00b"-ish or dumb. Any help is GREATLY appreciated, beyond belief! The quicker I can figure this out, the quicker I can finish the build and update a build thread. The entire custom 'glass interior is just waiting on the stereo system to be designed so I can make my provisions for all the speakers and then finish the plugs and make my molds, then parts.
Peace guys,


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Interesting build!

A whole lot of the reason to do a 3way setup is because it allows the midrange speakers to not try to play so low where they rarely have enough output before xmax. What I mean by this is I would not put dual 6.5" in each door because with them crossover over around 250-300Hz they can take a lot more power and therefore provide enough volume without needing 2 sets.

About the other midrange speakers, you can either buy an DSP system like I mentioned above or you should not bother adding the 3-4" drivers.

So do you want to lay down $500 for a good DSP?

If you said no then put one set of comps in each kick panel (to help with T/A and imaging), put the midbass in the doors (cause where else would they go if the kicks are taken?), and use the passive crossovers comps along with the amp LP crossover for the midbass.


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Ah, man thanks for the reply. Really helped clear things up for me with that one!!

Well, this is about the 10th time I have been told that I am using more speakers than necessary (LOL). Honestly, I do think I am jumping the gun and trying to add more than I realize I really need. Part of the reason, is that I just fell in love with those infinity's I have and would hate to get rid of them  lol. And the second reason I think I am going over board, is due to the overall build of the truck.

I dont know if I mentioned in this thread or not but I am an offroad guy from SoCal, my specialty is desert racing: race trucks, trophy trucks, prerunners, etc. I have never gotten very deep into car aiudio systems before, other than the systems I have installed in my trucks, ans family and friends vehicles (nothing more than a basic headunit install and a 4ch amp/4 speaker front/rear system).
With this Chevy I am building, I am going to build the complete truck every aspect, and I am going full bore, balls out on all of it basically. Long Travel J-arm front suspension with triple bypass and coilover shocks, hidden "stealth" 4-link rear suspension OR a rear cantilever set-up, Fully built '03 Chevy LQ9 engine (LS3 Intake, LQ9 Heads, cam, etc), Custom Fiberglass one-piece front clip and rear bedisdes (in progress). Then finally the interior: Custom dash/console/door panels/a-pillars/b-pillars/headliner/ every panel in the truck. I am a fiberglasser myself by trade, so I am not sparing one bit of the interior. It will be made to house a full rollcage and appear stock. The "theme" of the build for the interior design is.. well imagine if Chevy made a "Corvette Race Truck/Daily Driver".. It will look sporty, both in off-road and road racing aspects, but at the same time it will look like it was meant to be there and appear like a daily driver vehicle.

So with all of that on my palette, I am hesitant to give myself a cut-off point when it comes to the stereo. I build the interior panels almost an addition 3" wider than stock all around to clear the rollcage, and there was an added benefit to that, because now I can fit just about any combination of speakers in there that i want! I was thinking big, imagining 2 6.5's per door, 8" midbass woofers in the kick's, 3"/4" speakers and tweeters in the dash, plus my 2 10" subs behind the seats (going to be in a full-fiberglass box by the way).

Well that's just a bit of the backgrouns of the truck so you can maybe understand why it seems like I am thinking so big LMAO!!

Anyways I appreciate all the help from you guys, everything is a lot clearer to me now. Hopefully I can decide on a layout.
And you see, here is the other problem: The truck is in NO SHAPE to drive or evern listen to a stereo. No wiring what so ever. So I am completely using my imagination on what will sound good, based on what I remember from mine and othe vehicles.

So I guess in a way I am also relying on you guys to give me your opinions on not only what works/lines up/has enough power/etc, But also on what will actually sound good. Again it is a reg cab 88 Chevy tuck. From what I remember, when I had my 2 10''s behind the seats in a box with 1 cu.ft. per sub, the bass was almost overwhelming. Very loud. I only ever had the components in there for 8 months, 3 of which i drove with them. They have been sitting, untouched since 2005, so that another reason i'd hate to get rid of them/not use them. So I am really only used to hearing the 10''s, and my infinity 4x6's in that truck. Obviously ANY amp'ed and processed set of speakers will sound good.

But, say, the 8" midbasses: will those things even be necessary with all the subwoofe bass i will have?? Will they be heard much over a couple 6.5's?? those are the things I have no idea about cuz ive never had any actual experience listening to them/.

Well thanks again guys, sorry to rant on. just want to give as much info as possible since im asking help :/ 
Peace!


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

HAMMERx831 said:


> Ah, man thanks for the reply. Really helped clear things up for me with that one!!
> NP man, we all learn things here.
> 
> Well, this is about the 10th time I have been told that I am using more speakers than necessary (LOL). Honestly, I do think I am jumping the gun and trying to add more than I realize I really need. Part of the reason, is that I just fell in love with those infinity's I have and would hate to get rid of them  lol. And the second reason I think I am going over board, is due to the overall build of the truck.
> ...


---------------------------

I was even thinking horns might be a possibility. Check out the HLCD sub-forum.


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Okay well I have been giving this an unbelievable amount of thought over the past couple days. I have been looking at some similar builds, where people will take a basic active 3 way setup (tweet-midrange-midbass) and add additional midbass woofers. I am coming to the realization that I am battling what I realistically need for some good sounds, and what I "want" to do just because I have the environment for it. 
While I was searching, I came across a crossover that seems like it would allow me possibly make what I want into a possibility . I found the Lanzar optilux10. A 10ch active crossover that allows for processing of front high, front mid, rear high, rear mid, and subwoofer. The frequencies it offers are just right to. So now I am wondering if it isn't a bad idea to pick up one of these instead (only 100 bucks!), and concentrate on doing as follows:
-"front high" to Tweeters
-"front mid" to my 6.5's
-"rear high" to 3" midranges
-"rear mid" to the 8" Dayton rs225's
-"subwoofer" to my 2 10's
I would have nearly every size driver, with the subwoofers around 40hz and below, 8"s pick up from there to a good point (not yet decided), then the 6"s, 3"s, and finally tweeters. I will figure my frequency points soon, for now I am just trying to find more info on this crossover and figure out if I should go this route. 
Again as for placement in the truck, I will have the custom panels made to house drivers in the door panels and kick's (6" in doors/kicks, 8" in the other. Not sure which would be best in front/behind the other.) Both the kicks and doors will have solid baffles and 'glass enclosures with the needed volume, made to be mounted to the metal body panels. The actual door and kick panels will attach after the drivers have been secured, and act as covers for the drivers. Then of course subwoofers behind seats. 

So does anyone think that this crossover could be the missing link I need to bring my plan to reality? I mean with the interior I'm building, it would be a shame not to take advantage of the space I allowed for, because I didn't pick the right equipment/etc. 

Oh and last question, I promise!
But with most of these 3way crossovers, I notice the have a mixed in/out to allow Daisy chaining with another crossover. 
If this lanzar x/o is junk, would Daisy chaining 2 3way active crossovers be a possibility to give the obvious extra channel or two I need ? (At least 1 extra LP for the 8's, 2 for the 8s and subs. With 2 3way x/o's I could arrange everything as needed per channel offered). 

Thanks again for all replies and for any future info. This last post should be last one,if my current plan will work, before I pick up the last of the audio gear and continue finishing my interior build. I can then finally make my speaker enclosures/mounts, and finish final sanding of the interior panels to prepare for the mold making and final part manufacturing. Home stretch after this!
Peace!_


----------



## ATOMICTECH62 (Jan 24, 2009)

I just thought of the perfect unit for you.
The JBL GTX47.
I own 2 of these and the are really good units,the only problems I had with them was the switches need blasted with contact cleaner every few years.
They are 4way front with 3way rear.When these first came out they retailed for $500.
There are 4 of them new in the box on Ebay as I write this for $60.


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Can we clear up some things?

Like what is the goal? What do you want it to be? Loud? Clear? One you probably don't have a lot of knowledge of is a flat response front stage. That's what I've been suggesting, but it would require simplifying the amount of speakers, selling some stuff, buying other stuff, and installing all this in excellent locations. Since you can glass that last one shouldn't be as bad as it would be for most.

How many people ride in the back of you vehicle? If none, then forget the rear speakers for now. You can always add them later if you feel you are missing something, but I doubt you will.

Here's my suggestion and although it is more expensive it will be easier to get great sound from it than the complex build you are planning. (1) Sell the Infinity components (2) Buy another ZXi150.4 (3) Buy 6 speakers, pair of -tweeters -midrange -midbass (4) Buy a DSP system.

Once you identify what sound you want then you can pick speakers.


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

The more complicated your sound chain, the worse its going to sound. Simplicity will give better results. 

I'm not sure why you want to run 2 subs+2 8's+2 6.5's+2 3's+2 tweets. That is a total of 10 drivers in your car. The amount of time you have devoted to figuring out how to set them up, is peanuts compared to the nightmare that awaits you when you try and integrate these 10 drivers to give you one cohesive sound. 

Like Schmiddr2 mentioned, take a step back and ask yourself what you want.

1. Loud, lots of low end.
2. Clear sound where you can pick up nuances in the recording and lifelike sound
3. I want to do it my way, cause I can


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Hmm. . Okay I see what you guys are saying. I am complicating things by trying to make a system work with stuff I have, and it will not even yield a decent sound compared to simplifying it down. 
Sorry, I just get too overwhelmed with all the different builds and articles I read. And too caught up between so many projects going on in one vehicle. 

Okay. So to answer the questions asked (and I appreciate you guys asking ME! Sorry I am being a pain 
- I would like to have toe best possible sound quality I can get. Clear sounds , I am more in to clarity than loud and bumping, if you will. I listen strictly to rock (classic rock to metal). Never any rap or hip hop, unless a friend wants to pop something in. I have the 2 10'' subs with the same box design for 6 years and it is perfect. 
Other than the subs, the most I have ever had in the truck for sounds was 4x6's in the dash, and the infinity components in custom door panels. 
So since I am building the interior panels, I would like to just make use of the space I provided and design a nice, active front stage to go with my nice subs. I always felt that the bass needed a good front stage to complete the system and that was with very amateur ears . 

- I can definitely eliminate the infinity components . Only reason I even have 2 sets is because I got them on eBay back in 05 for 180. 00 for both of them. If I can't sell, I am sure they can go in my dads Camry for front and rear OEM replacements . 
I can also pick up another zxi150. 4 no problem. I have some king coilovers that I am going to sell that will give me an additional budget for the audio system ($600 or so after I buy some materials to build some suspension parts)

- with the recommended 6 speakers ( tweeters, midrange, midbass) what would be the best size and placement for the midrange and midbass drivers? Again, I have kick panels and door panels both available with 7" of depth and the option to have sealed enclosures if needed. I also have a blank dash and a pillars available. 

-since I have hifonics amps, does their Hfxr Crossover look like a decent processor ? I would have to cross the subs with the amp as I always have done. 
Unless you have a better choice to look at. 

- and about rear speakers, it is a single cab and I do not want to add any rear fill. That is one thing I got rid of a while ago!

Well again thanks for the help guys. Since I am understanding what you guys are saying about how I was making it too complicated, I can now look at it as a 3 way active system that I would want to concentrate on, and spend the time finding the best placements for each component .


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

Schmiddr2 - I think I understand what you are suggesting now. Simplicity, great locations, one good 3 way front stage, and a good crossover to process. 
Am I on the ball? If so, it will be alot easier now starting with a blank slate. Only have to concentrate on 3 sets of drivers ( tweeter, midrange, midbass). 
Lets see what I can do 
Again man, thanks so much for your help, means alot to me. You and the other guys posting are literally saving me alot of money, disappointment, and wasted materials/equipment . If I didn't come to this site, I would have bit the bullet and done what I "thought" was a cool stereo system using my stockpile of old gear. That would suck!
Peace guys!


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

HAMMERx831 said:


> - with the recommended 6 speakers ( tweeters, midrange, midbass) what would be the best size and placement for the midrange and midbass drivers?


Size is a variable that is based off the driver specifications. The most common would be 8" midbass, 3-4" midrange, and 1"-3/4" tweeters. But if you choose pro drivers a 10" midbass, 4-6" midrange, and 1" tweeters will do the job. Even these are not set in stone and some driver sizes will work in place of the ones mentioned.

As for placement that has to do with the interior of your vehicle, but looking at it I would say midbass in the doors (sealed if possible), midrange in kicks, and tweets either in kicks or A-pillars.

Try browsing the build logs to get a better idea of what sizes and placement. Use google advanced search like this ----> http://www.google.com/search?q=3+wa...&bih=737&num=10&lr=&ft=i&cr=&safe=images&tbs=


----------



## FartinInTheTub (May 25, 2010)

I have a Coustic XM-3 that I'll sell you for $50. IMO, One of the true classics when wanting to go active.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

schmiddr2 said:


> Interesting build!
> 
> A whole lot of the reason to do a 3way setup is because it allows the midrange speakers to not try to play so low where they rarely have enough output before xmax. What I mean by this is I would not put dual 6.5" in each door because with them crossover over around 250-300Hz they can take a lot more power and therefore provide enough volume without needing 2 sets.
> 
> ...


x2...very interesting build.....wow...good luck...remember, less is more can be a good thing


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

FartinInTheTub said:


> I have a Coustic XM-3 that I'll sell you for $50. IMO, One of the true classics when wanting to go active.


Wow, someone still has one of those floating around... you're right a true classic


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

FartinInTheTub said:


> I have a Coustic XM-3 that I'll sell you for $50. IMO, One of the true classics when wanting to go active.


WOW, really? Cool man thanks. Well I am going to get this guy a call back tonight that wants to buy my coilovers, and depending on how it goes (if he doesnt flake , then I will PM you for sure and spend the $50. ThenI can have the funds to pick up the drivers for the system.

BUT- if anyone comes along until then I dont want to hold you up on a sale by any means.
Thanks and I will be in contact with you soon,


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

schmiddr2 said:


> Size is a variable that is based off the driver specifications. The most common would be 8" midbass, 3-4" midrange, and 1"-3/4" tweeters. But if you choose pro drivers a 10" midbass, 4-6" midrange, and 1" tweeters will do the job. Even these are not set in stone and some driver sizes will work in place of the ones mentioned.
> 
> As for placement that has to do with the interior of your vehicle, but looking at it I would say midbass in the doors (sealed if possible), midrange in kicks, and tweets either in kicks or A-pillars.
> 
> Try browsing the build logs to get a better idea of what sizes and placement. Use google advanced search like this ----> 3 way kick panels site:http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/ - Google Search


Hey that is a cool trick for seaching! Thanks tons for showing me that LOL!!
Okay, so with your advice, I am now able to narrow thing down ALOT! 
The question I have now is on the quality of some of the speakers from pats-express.com. I have seen then in many many builds, and the fellas seem to be very pleased with them, plus they are very inexpensive.
I have picked out as follows:
Dayton RS225 8" - MIdbass,
Dayton RS100 4" - Midrange,
Goldwood GT525 1" - Tweeter,
I will figure out which crossover points very soon. I am just curious if these drivers & tweeter are what people say they are in terms of quality? Seems too good to be true with the prices!
I realize they are home audio equipment, and I believe the tweeters are 8ohms, but that wont be a problem, I can get them wired up correctly. Also, I am not sure of the durability with home audio drives/tweets, but again these will be in sealed areas with some protective covers/gilles made, so there wont be any UV rays beaming on them or be exposed to any elements.
Thanks again schimddr2, I cant stress enough how much your advice is appreciated bro.
Peace!


----------



## HAMMERx831 (Dec 22, 2010)

I have a question with the Coustic XM-3 crossover:
I notice that you can feed it 'Front' and 'Rear' inputs from the headunit. I will most likely be using an in-dash EQ. Would I want to send the EQ and crossover the ''Front Output'' from the headunit ONLY, or 'front' AND 'rear'?? (if I understand correctly, when using the x/o's for a 3way front stage, you want to use only the 'Front output' from the headunit and not the 'rear output').

Also, I would be using the ''Subwoofer output'' to my Midbass channel of the amp. 
So when I hook up my subwoofers, would I just cross them over on the sub amp, and send the ''SUB Output'' from the in-dash EQ directly to the Sub amp's RCA's? (this means that my subs will NOT be active, if I understand right)

It is going to be raining tonight and tomorrow here in San Diego. But when the rain holds up, I am going to go out and snap some better, more detailed pictures of my truck for you guys. I will get a measuring tape and show you guys some shots of the thickness/depth of my door panels and kickpanels so you guys can see how much clearance I have for the drivers/magnets. 
I will also get some drawings scanned probably tonight showing a diagram of how I plan to mount the speakers and the enclosures that I will make.
Thanks again friends, Peace!


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Happy to help, it's a hobby ya know how it is I'm sure.

While that is a nice crossover does it do what you need it to do?

As for which speakers to buy, I would read reviews here and other places. Here's a good one just get an idea of some brands and what to look for in a speaker, Zaph|Audio -scroll down to _current driver tests_.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ge-comparison-shootout-dyn-scan-hat-more.html

Member Reviews & Product Comparisons - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

Bikinpunks Product Review Forum - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

I'm suggesting to read more about reviews because at some point you will need to know about what you want and a budget, then if you still need help it will be easy to help you out.


----------



## FartinInTheTub (May 25, 2010)

HAMMERx831 said:


> WOW, really? Cool man thanks. Well I am going to get this guy a call back tonight that wants to buy my coilovers, and depending on how it goes (if he doesnt flake , then I will PM you for sure and spend the $50. ThenI can have the funds to pick up the drivers for the system.
> 
> BUT- if anyone comes along until then I dont want to hold you up on a sale by any means.
> Thanks and I will be in contact with you soon,


It's all good man... I haven't even listed it for sale... It's just chillin in the closet collecting dust. hit me up whenever... it'll be here.


----------

