# 2017 Civic Hatch - Stuff & Things



## WhereAmEye?

I graduated a few months ago and as such decided I was tired of the Altima so I got a new car. 2017 Civic EX-L Hatch with most of the bells and whistles (just under the touring edition). This build will come to fruition as I accrue the items (and time) needed, however since I got a brand new car I want to do it right the first time. I brutalized my previous cars and don’t want to torment the Honda like them  As such, Im taking my time with this build.

Here’s the goal; as stated the stuff will come over time but I’m pretty set on the equipment. I hope to get some help tuning and make this car a truly beautiful sounding car:

-Stock head unit. Honda’s new radio is GORGEOUS and I couldn’t justify an aftermarket deck. If the output truly sucks I might try a JL fix, but I don’t think it’ll need it.

- Helix dsp.2 with modified urc.3. The urc.3 has a switch that’ll allow me to switch from the analog input to the digital input which I’ll use when I really want some high res music. But for daily driving to work and stuff the stock head unit with usb to my phone will suffice. 

- not set on amps yet. My buddy is an image rep and I want to help him out, but I might end up using the leviathan again since it’s been so good to me. Who knows. 

- Stevens Audio sa6-cs. Eric’s new component set in the active config. Mids will go into custom kick panels vented to either the carpet or the body of the car. Tweeters will be moulded into either the pillars or sails, will decide after listening. I’ve been talking to Eric over email and he’s got me super excited to try them out and has been a big help thus far.

- (x2) Stereo Integrity bm mkv’s in a false floor config. Since I’m not commuting to school so often I feel better ditching the spare, so I’ll put the subs, helix, and amps in the false floor. Obviously this means I won’t have a complete install until at least 2018 



My goal is to make this the best sounding car I’ve ever listened to. Considering I’ve listened to cars such as Steve’s Mazda and Jason’s Subaru I know I’m setting a very high standard, but it’ll be a nice goal to strive for even if I don’t meet it.

Here’s a few pictures of the car when I got her. I got 20% tint on all the windows and rear windshield but I haven’t taken good pictures of that yet. 





























I’m super excited about this build  Stay tuned!



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## SQLnovice

Nice, subbed.


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## Coppertone

Dry nice car and wise decision as to taking your time doing the build. Too many people rush in as soon as they buy the car, and then find themselves tearing it apart often to change This or that.


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## chesapeakesoja

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you!


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## OCD66

Killer ride. Had one give my GTI a run for the money. Diggin' that color. 

Is the interior out yet?


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## WhereAmEye?

Thanks guys. 



OCD66 said:


> Killer ride. Had one give my GTI a run for the money. Diggin' that color.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the interior out yet?




It’s certainly more fun to drive than my family sedan Altima haha. And yeah the color is honestly my favorite part; it’s a pearl gray color so in the correct lighting you can see green flakes, it’s beautiful. No I haven’t done anything to the interior. Actually that’s not true, I took out the driver side kick panels to make sure there wasn’t a fuse box hidden in there and to see what kind of space I have. The park brake is operated with a small handle in the center console so that’s not a problem either. 











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## strong*I*bumpin

My favorite color with the new Hondas,my son has the base model in red.Sub’ed and have fun with the build.

Sold my ‘11 Accord recently so been eyeing the new Accord in that color.What I like after looking at some videos and pics is the tweeter pods,they resemble the BMW ones.


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## Brules

I have heard the SA component set and they are wowzers and they weren't even tuned. Was a beautiful sound. Clear, vibrant but not harsh like a focal tweet. Sounded like studio speakers in a car.

I just ordered a set myself.  If going that high end, get the best amps you can. I am going Helix P Six and a G One. Will be pre set to go 3 way if I want when the mid comes out.

Sweet ride, I love the new CRX's. Post some other pics of the inside - show us that HU!  

Sub'ing!


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## diy.phil

Subbed too! That's a British car from Honda in Swindon/England! My kid bought one 2 days ago. That fancy nice gray wasn't available in stock in southern CA in the trim/package that he wanted. The dealer found one a few hundred miles away in San Francisco but was too much trouble to swap/send it over... so he happily took the white one. Best wishes and have fun there!


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## chefhow

Not sure where in NC you are but reach out to Mic10is about the Stevens drivers, he is running them in his Acura and can help out.


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## chesapeakesoja

chefhow said:


> Not sure where in NC you are but reach out to Mic10is about the Stevens drivers, he is running them in his Acura and can help out.




I think Mic10is is out near me, in Apex (at least when I last dealt with him). So he's only a couple of hours from you, WhereamEye. 


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## Notloudenuf

Swinging for the fence. I like it!


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## PorkCereal

Nice design idea. Doors are paper thin and not a lot of depth. Id ctx6.5 wouldn't fit even with a spacer but hat imagine 6.5 would. Id suggest to take care of the doors all at once since its only 1 screw holding it in and the rest push pins. Power wire is easy enough as there is a grommet behind the battery on the driver side. 

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## JayinMI

Nice upgrade!

When I built my last car, I ran 1/0 wire (even tho it was overkill) and ran speaker wires for a 3way setup. I terminated the wires with Traxxas connectors on both ends, that way if I changed speaker locations later, I could just make extensions off the connectors without having to run all new wires and pulling the car back apart every time.

I also ran stereo speaker level signal wires (initially used my factory radio) and Toslink cable (for eventual tablet upgrade).

Just a thought.

Jay


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## Mic10is

Im in Holly Springs. Ive been running Erics Speakers since december or January. I have the original final sample set from beta testing.
I have quite a bit of experience with them...and in a Acura (honda)

If you need help, just ask


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## mrichard89

Awesome car. I love the new civics and considered getting a type R, but I just can't get over that gigantic airplane wing on the back. Look forward to following along.


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## Brules

Mic10is said:


> Im in Holly Springs. Ive been running Erics Speakers since december or January. I have the original final sample set from beta testing.
> I have quite a bit of experience with them...and in a Acura (honda)
> 
> If you need help, just ask


I would so love to hear Mic's car - he got best SQ of show at MECA world finals..!!!!! Same setup as you want to do in your Honda too up front.


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## Coppertone

Look even if I didn’t need help, knowing the experience that you have with those Eric speakers would have me chilling with you for hours. Also sampling them in your car would definitely have me bringing a six pack of pop and a heavy pizza with me.


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## Mic10is

Coppertone said:


> Look even if I didn’t need help, knowing the experience that you have with those Eric speakers would have me chilling with you for hours. Also sampling them in your car would definitely have me bringing a six pack of pop and a heavy pizza with me.


whats pop?...lol

SODA!! its freakin Soda!!!....pop.....SMH


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## Coppertone

Where I was born and raised ( Charleston S.C ) it was always known as pop and being stuck in NJ has not had me change that lol. 


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## WhereAmEye?

It's definitely soda


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## Mic10is

Coppertone said:


> Where I was born and raised ( Charleston S.C ) it was always known as pop and being stuck in NJ has not had me change that lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


not to derail this thread completely but i grew up in WV...i grew up calling it pop...as did my wife who grew up in Ohio.....but after 20years of being out of those areas....it is more definitely soda


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## bradknob

Y’all talking about cold drank? Pronounced coledrank, 1 word.


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## WhereAmEye?

I was going to respond to everyone but then it became a party so I just thanked everyone instead lol. No problem though, I like the conversation. It hides the lack of car audio in this "build log" 

And Brad, NOONE calls it "coledrank" haha


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## bradknob

Travel south a few states. U might be surprised.


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## WhereAmEye?

JayinMI said:


> Nice upgrade!
> 
> 
> 
> When I built my last car, I ran 1/0 wire (even tho it was overkill) and ran speaker wires for a 3way setup. I terminated the wires with Traxxas connectors on both ends, that way if I changed speaker locations later, I could just make extensions off the connectors without having to run all new wires and pulling the car back apart every time.
> 
> 
> 
> I also ran stereo speaker level signal wires (initially used my factory radio) and Toslink cable (for eventual tablet upgrade).
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> Jay




I definitely plan on going crazy with wiring. I saw your new build and you did a great job with the wiring, termination, labels, etc, I plan on doing just as much. 

I think I’m going to go all knukonceptz this time around just because. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Fully digital HUD. Yes, that says 30.7mpg 





































Here you can kinda see the green flakes and kinda see the window tint. 











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## Babs

Holy smokes I'm in.. Subscribed!
LOVE that color.
Thought I read somewhere the new Civics have some kind of method maybe with some of the head units for an SPDIF output? That would be way cool if it did.


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## WhereAmEye?

That would definitely be cool. I’ll look into it and see what I can find. 


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## Notloudenuf

Nice on the mpg!
My CR-V is currently saying 29.1; I'm happy.
Our old escape had a best of 25mpg and I swear it was half the size as this vehicle.


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## JayinMI

WhereAmEye? said:


> I definitely plan on going crazy with wiring. I saw your new build and you did a great job with the wiring, termination, labels, etc, I plan on doing just as much.
> 
> I think I’m going to go all knukonceptz this time around just because.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. I really like Knu's wiring. It's oversized with extra conductors, but still seems to fit in most fuse holders and distro blocks.

My second choice is probably Stinger. 

Jay


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## JayinMI

Notloudenuf said:


> Nice on the mpg!
> My CR-V is currently saying 29.1; I'm happy.
> Our old escape had a best of 25mpg and I swear it was half the size as this vehicle.


My Mazda 6 has been down to 33 mpg lately. Usually more like 33.5.

Is the CR-V All Wheel Drive?

Jay


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## WhereAmEye?

JayinMI said:


> My Mazda 6 has been down to 33 mpg lately. Usually more like 33.5.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the CR-V All Wheel Drive?
> 
> 
> 
> Jay




Honda claims 40mpg Highway for my civic and 32 city. If I didn’t have this much fun driving it I’d probably get better gas mileage, but that’s no fun. 


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## JayinMI

When I first got it, I got closer to 35, but I kept driving under the speed limit because I wasn't used to it. lol

BTW, stay away from the CCA power wire.

Jay


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## WhereAmEye?

JayinMI said:


> When I first got it, I got closer to 35, but I kept driving under the speed limit because I wasn't used to it. lol
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, stay away from the CCA power wire.
> 
> 
> 
> Jay




It’s called KCA dude.



Yeah I know, I don’t plan on going cheap for anything in this build. My wallet and bills may say otherwise down the road but for now that’s the plan 


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## Notloudenuf

JayinMI said:


> My Mazda 6 has been down to 33 mpg lately. Usually more like 33.5.
> 
> Is the CR-V All Wheel Drive?
> 
> Jay


Mine is front wheel drive. AWD is available.


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## WhereAmEye?

So far:

-I’ve talked to Eric about the components, including some tricks and hints for the install I should watch out for. I also plan on taking a trip to holly springs to see Mic and have a listen at his system. 

- I’ve struck a trade deal with Jerry Niebur; I gave him my Pioneer NEX and some cash in exchange for a Helix dsp.2 and a URC.3 controller. I still have the director from the old install but I have a really cool idea floating in my head on how to incorporate the urc remote, which involves three separate blanks from the dash, a lot of tearing apart, soldering, and a cnc mill with a tiny end mill (around .03”) 

- I called Mr. Mantz this evening regarding a new cover for the Leviathan. He seems like a nice guy but I have to call him back tomorrow when he’s in the shop to see if he has any covers left. If I can get a fresh cover then I’ll definitely rock the Levi in the new install, because that was the only thing that didn’t look good on the amp. I might splurge some more and get a Minotaur but I have enough to worry about for now.


So yeah, prep work is moving along just fine. 


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## Coppertone

I’m watching just because I want to see the first part that you tackle on your brand new car.


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## WhereAmEye?

Coppertone said:


> I’m watching just because I want to see the first part that you tackle on your brand new car.




I honestly don’t know what I want to do first. I’m pretty sure it’ll be getting power to the back and other wiring work but who knows. I have to work up the courage to tear it all out first 


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## JayinMI

WhereAmEye? said:


> So far:
> 
> -I’ve talked to Eric about the components, including some tricks and hints for the install I should watch out for. I also plan on taking a trip to holly springs to see Mic and have a listen at his system.


I assume you mean Eric Cole?

Jay


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## WhereAmEye?

JayinMI said:


> I assume you mean Eric Cole?
> 
> 
> 
> Jay




Obviously. Eric Stevens created them but Eric cole knows how to install them. Or beat them with a hockey stick.


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## Mic10is

WhereAmEye? said:


> So far:
> 
> -I’ve talked to Eric about the components, including some tricks and hints for the install I should watch out for. I also plan on taking a trip to holly springs to see Mic and have a listen at his system.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Where are you located?


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## WhereAmEye?

Mic10is said:


> Where are you located?


Hickory/Conover area.


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## WhereAmEye?

Good news; I talked to Mr. Mantz on the phone today and purchased one of the two remaining leviathan III covers that he had left 

I would love to get a Minotaur to match but I’m not going to put it on the list yet.


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## Niebur3

Where I am.....it's called Pop.


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## WhereAmEye?

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## WhereAmEye?

Little update:

- dsp.2 and urc.3 should be here next week. Niebur has been awesome so far in the deal.

- I just preordered the two stereo Integrity bm mkv so that’s another purchase off the list. 

- the updated list of things left to buy include the Stevens comps, a boat load of knu wires, sound deadener, and a mono amp.


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## Locomotive Tech

SuB'd !!!
Just spent 200 bucks on Knu's site!

30.7 Mpg? I average 32.5. I get it though, its new. When I first got my 2014 Si I couldn't get better than 28! Civic's are fun to drive!!

Can I get dibs on the Levi? I should have jumped when I had the chance!


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## WhereAmEye?

Locomotive Tech said:


> SuB'd !!!
> 
> Just spent 200 bucks on Knu's site!
> 
> 
> 
> 30.7 Mpg? I average 32.5. I get it though, its new. When I first got my 2014 Si I couldn't get better than 28! Civic's are fun to drive!!
> 
> 
> 
> Can I get dibs on the Levi? I should have jumped when I had the chance!




Ha I’m going to spend that much soon!

Yeah I’m having a blast with this car. So fun to drive and it feels comfortable and all kinds of happy feelings, except the terrible audio. But I can fix that pretty easily 

Btw the Levi is still available. I was just going to go with it since I had it on hand but if you want it give me an offer.


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## Locomotive Tech

Really!!! Damn I just made an inquiry for those HAT L3SE's. I don't want to back out on the guy, that would be a dickhead move. Maybe in a couple of weeks, so if you get an offer don't hold it for me. 

That color is just awesome! BTW


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## WhereAmEye?

Locomotive Tech said:


> Really!!! Damn I just made an inquiry for those HAT L3SE's. I don't want to back out on the guy, that would be a dickhead move. Maybe in a couple of weeks, so if you get an offer don't hold it for me.
> 
> 
> 
> That color is just awesome! BTW



Just lmk, it’s going to sit in my bedroom for a couple months anyway.

I love how many people like the color. A local buddy said “the first time I saw it I was like eehhh maybe. Second time I saw it I was like okay I can dig it. Third time I was like I LOVE that color!”

Once you see it in the right light in person it’s just perfect. Imo.


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## Locomotive Tech

I dug it from the first time I saw one!


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## WhereAmEye?

The leviathan sold on eBay so..












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## WhereAmEye?

I also got some goodies in the mail. I got both a pillars and both sail panels directly from Honda for $30 shipped total! Much cheaper than I was anticipating. And I still have the director but I still haven’t decided if I want to use it; the usb pass through is handy and the screen is cool but it’s just so big. We’ll see. 




















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## gumbeelee

$30 bux shipped for sails and pillars wow, that is cheap


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## WhereAmEye?

gumbeelee said:


> $30 bux shipped for sails and pillars wow, that is cheap
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Right? $5 per panel with $10 shipping. And they all came with clips and the pillars came with the “srs” clips. The pillars in my Altima were $30 each without shipping 


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## SQLnovice

Wow, last time I checked, my pillars were $90 each.


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## Notloudenuf

I'm glad you are using the Helix piece in your ride. I'm excited to hear how it turns out. That processor is high on my list.


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## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> I'm glad you are using the Helix piece in your ride. I'm excited to hear how it turns out. That processor is high on my list.




I’m so excited to get this build going. I’m proud of myself though because the day I got my Altima I ripped out the rear speakers so comparatively I’m taking this pretty slow  But the first thing I’m going to do is build the pillars with the Stevens tweeters. Sure they might sit there on my dash without power for a few weeks but at least I’ll be able to see them lol. 

I could have used the regular helix dsp since I already had one but instead I wanted to have the ability to use the usb input that the dsp.2 offers.


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## Brules

Won?t you need the director to switch inputs from the direct usb to stock radio? I am fixing to do a Helix P6 and will be using it the same way as you.


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## WhereAmEye?

Brules said:


> Won?t you need the director to switch inputs from the direct usb to stock radio? I am fixing to do a Helix P6 and will be using it the same way as you.




The new urc.3 has a switch that, if I read correctly, can be programmed within the software to switch between two inputs. It is limited to only two, and if I used it to change inputs I couldn’t, for example, change presets. That’s why I’m still debating which controller to use. 


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## WhereAmEye?

This updated list is mainly for me to see what I have left to buy, and to keep the build log up to date:

What I have paid for:
- stock head unit (the most expensive piece haha)
- helix dsp.2
- helix controller (director or urc.3)
- (x2) Stereo Integrity bm mkv’s
- Stevens Audio sa6-cs components

Still left to buy:
- knukonceptz wires/cables
- perhaps an upgraded battery
- sound deadening
- amplifiers

It’s pretty wide open for my on what amps to use. I’m leaning towards image dynamics sq amps mainly because my local friend is a dealer for them and I want to help him out, but I’ve seen them in person and in action and they’re solid amps. A 1200.1 on the subs, an 800.4 on the mids and another 800.4 on the tweeters (600 on each sub, 400 on each comp speaker).


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## Weightless

Is this a hatchback? 

Can't wait to see the buildlog.

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## WhereAmEye?

Yessir it is. Hopefully the log won’t disappoint, when it gets started.


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## Weightless

I'm sure it will not dissapoint. Just as long as all speaker baffles, amp racks, and all mounting plates are color matched to the car, you will be golden.

Kidding aside, it should be pretty sweet.

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## Brules

Just got my SA6 comp set in for my truck. Can?t wait to see yours installed!

Also saw a civic just like yours yesterday. That paint is soooo cool. Changes colors depending on angle and sun!


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## WhereAmEye?

Brules said:


> Just got my SA6 comp set in for my truck. Can?t wait to see yours installed!
> 
> Also saw a civic just like yours yesterday. That paint is soooo cool. Changes colors depending on angle and sun!




Yeah! Maybe if I get them installed (and tuned) in time I can put a decent review on here for everyone.

Yeah it’s pearl gray so it changes colors with the right light; super sexy imo.


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## 1FinalInstall

Cool car and build. I HIGHLY recommend Soundskins sound deadening, if that's still on the "to get" list. There's a reason the top installers in the country all use it and as a DIY guy like yourself, it was so easy to install. Simply an awesome 2 in 1 product. You'll love your Stereo Integrity drivers, I know I do.


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## WhereAmEye?

1FinalInstall said:


> Cool car and build. I HIGHLY recommend Soundskins sound deadening, if that's still on the "to get" list. There's a reason the top installers in the country all use it and as a DIY guy like yourself, it was so easy to install. Simply an awesome 2 in 1 product. You'll love your Stereo Integrity drivers, I know I do.




I’ve used raamaudio and sds before and I liked both of them for cld. The raam ensolite was super easy and I could tell a huge difference with dons mlv in my doors.

What is the soundskins product like? Is it cld and foam in one sheet?


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## WhereAmEye?

Two things. 

One, I made the mistake of looking into hybrid audio unity amps and now I want a few of them for my install..but still not making a decision yet. 

Two, I’ve decided to go ahead and do under the hood right the first time so, as long as I can get it to fit, I’ll be buying an xs power d5100r agm battery with the 556 I-bar system. This will upgrade the battery but allow me to add separate terminals for the audio upgrade without messing with the stock wiring. Again, if it fits, I may try the knukonceptz fused battery terminal so I can go straight from the battery to the amp but still be fused properly. Or if those terminals don’t fit I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. 


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## mrichard89

Hoping to install 4 unity amps in my vehicle in the next few weeks! Haven't heard them in person, but they sure feel solid and built like a tank!


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## WhereAmEye?

mrichard89 said:


> Hoping to install 4 unity amps in my vehicle in the next few weeks! Haven't heard them in person, but they sure feel solid and built like a tank!




Shhhh you’re convincing me to get them 

Actually my image dynamics-dealer-friend is going to get info on becoming a hat dealer this week. So if he does become a dealer I really won’t have an excuse.


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## diy.phil

I saw a gray one cruising in the costco parking late-afternoon today and right away thought about you lol. Also was trying to figure out how he got/mod the twin center exhaust.


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## WhereAmEye?

diy.phil said:


> I saw a gray one cruising in the costco parking late-afternoon today and right away thought about you lol. Also was trying to figure out how he got/mod the twin center exhaust.




That’s actually factory on the sport and sport touring I think. I’m not sure about the type-r though. The sport model is down with the lx in terms of price and has bigger rims and twin exhaust, a small performance upgrade, and a manual 6 speed option. But it doesn’t come with leather or the nice factory head unit.

Edit: only the sport touring edition (one step up from mine) has the twin center exhaust. It also offers an amplified sound system, paddle shifters and a 6 speed manual transmission. The sport only has the bigger rims and the manual transmission. 


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## 1FinalInstall

WhereAmEye? said:


> I’ve used raamaudio and sds before and I liked both of them for cld. The raam ensolite was super easy and I could tell a huge difference with dons mlv in my doors.
> 
> What is the soundskins product like? Is it cld and foam in one sheet?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry for the late reply, been traveling. Their custom designed layering combines the standard butyl rubber with an acoustical layer of foam giving you the best of both worlds in one easy application.


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## WhereAmEye?

I’ve found (or re-discovered) a definite amp option: x2 arc xdi 1200.6; they would provide 600 to each sub, 300 to each midbass, 150 to each tweeter, and 2 extra channels at 150 each (possible differential rear fill or front midrange). Plus they look nice with the helix dsp and they’re relatively small and cool-running. 

Just another option.


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## Brules

Just run a P Six DSP and a mono amp.


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## Babs

Brules said:


> Just run a P Six DSP and a mono amp.


Gets my vote


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## WhereAmEye?

Trust me I’ve thought about it but it isn’t bridgeable. I want to be generous to the Stevens mids 


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## WhereAmEye?

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## WhereAmEye?

TANGIBLE PROGRESS!!

I️ got the battery installed tonight. It was relatively simple but I had to completely remove the plastic battery case since this new battery is bigger than the stock battery. I️ also had to slightly modify the hold down to fit.

I’d like to machine a hold down out of aluminum that serves three purposes: it holds down the battery, it has threaded holes to mount the fuse holder, and it holds the aluminum heat shield from the case I️ removed (see pic)



















Old (relatively speaking):









Newer:









I️ had to orient the bus bars in asymmetrical fashion in order to allow access to another terminal. It doesn’t bother me that much though. 




























Looking behind the battery I️ found a giant grommet that would probably allow six 1/0 wires.













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## Brules

Looks good. I went P Six as I will go 3 way when the 3? mid comes out eventually. Nice battery. I want one!


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## WhereAmEye?

I’m planning ahead for a midrange (running an extra set of speaker wire, having two extra channels of power, two extra channels from the helix) although it’ll be a while before I️ buy any. I want to get the most out of the 2-way before adding stuff.

Get one!


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## dcfis

In the process of running some 1/0 and it's thick and bulky. Also it needs to be longer than what you think. I have no idea why I needed it so thick but at least I won't have to run power wire ever again


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## WhereAmEye?

dcfis said:


> In the process of running some 1/0 and it's thick and bulky. Also it needs to be longer than what you think. I have no idea why I needed it so thick but at least I won't have to run power wire ever again




I️ had some 1/0 kicker wire in the Altima at one point so I’ve had my share of it. I’m wary of buying any power/cables until I️ know for sure what amps I’m using though. When I️ get the amps I’ll buy and install all the wiring and make the custom battery hold down.

But the Stevens comps will be here tomorrow evening so I️ could start on the pillars and kicks pretty soon. Aiming will be easy: mids will be firing directly at the opposite headrests and the tweeters will aim towards either between the head rests or at the opposite listener, whichever has the least obstruction on the dash.


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## WhereAmEye?

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## WhereAmEye?

Better pics of tweeters















































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## chesapeakesoja

Good-looking set!


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## dcfis

BOING!!!!!!! What is the total diameter of those tweets? They look like the next gen of KAXBLTWT


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## WhereAmEye?

The max OD is right at 2.25”


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## Coppertone

You’ve got pm OP.


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## Brules

They sound better than they look too.


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## WhereAmEye?

Brules said:


> They sound better than they look too.




I’m having a hard time believing that but I️ hope so!


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## WhereAmEye?

I️ made a mock-up using two arc xdi 1200.6 because I’m pretty set on using them. Playing around with placement ideas. 

























































I️ think I️ like the last one the best for false floor, but I️ kinda like the side enclosures and amps against the seats.




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## Weightless

I really like the side subs with the amps on the seats. It's a cool wrap around effect...

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## Brules

Agreed. Side setup looks sweet.


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## SQLnovice

I too like the sides. I think the space on both sides are never really usable and would work great for subs, plus you will get more usable space in the hatch. On the other hand, glassing 2 different enclosures will be more work/time/expertise, than building a box below the false floor with them facing up.


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## Coppertone

My vote also is for the sides and back wall. Since you plan on having (?) this car for awhile I say do it the way you’ll be happy with for several years.


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## WhereAmEye?

Coppertone said:


> My vote also is for the sides and back wall. Since you plan on having (?) this car for awhile I say do it the way you’ll be happy with for several years.




I️ plan on having it for a while, for sure. At LEAST three years 

I’m not going to make a decision yet but thanks for the input guys!


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## WhereAmEye?

Made the speaker rings today. First I drew them up on solidworks to get a good visual of them then cut them out.




























































































It’s dark outside so I didn’t get any good pics but I was able to put the passenger ring in place just to get myself pumped up. 











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## diy.phil

Oooooh :thumbsup:


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## Mic10is

WhereAmEye? said:


> Made the speaker rings today. First I drew them up on solidworks to get a good visual of them then cut them out.
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Solid work man. If speakers aren't going to be used soon, find an old receiver or something and hook them up to allow them to break in. Both mids and tweeters really open up once broken in well.

Also lmk what you'd charge for a set or 2 of mid rings like you just made. That would save me some work for next install I'm doing


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## WhereAmEye?

Mic10is said:


> Solid work man. If speakers aren't going to be used soon, find an old receiver or something and hook them up to allow them to break in. Both mids and tweeters really open up once broken in well.
> 
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I have a little 2 channel lepai amp I could use. 

I’ll pm you regarding the rings. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Happy thanksgiving guys!

I kept going back and forth between the arc xdi amp and the hybrid amps for several reasons but I finally decided today 










So I’ll give ~400 watts to each stereo Integrity sub (dvc 2 ohm), ~220 Watts to each midbass, and I’ll probably only use 2 channels for the tweeters and have 2 extra for the potential midrange down the road, so ~75 Watts each.


Audio intensity has them at $100 off msrp, plus a 20% Black Friday discount, plus free shipping.



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## Weightless

Awesome!

Soooo, what did you choose? The link/pic is broken on my phone via Tapatalk, lol. 

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## WhereAmEye?

Two hybrid audio u5a five channel amps


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## Weightless

Nice. I've never used their amps, but if they're anythung like their drivers, they should be well built. 

That's a nice looking amp, I'm sure it will match the rest of the install. 

Btw, I saw a civic in the same color the other day and I have to admit, the pics do it no justice. Very nice. 

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## WhereAmEye?

Weightless said:


> Nice. I've never used their amps, but if they're anythung like their drivers, they should be well built.
> 
> That's a nice looking amp, I'm sure it will match the rest of the install.
> 
> Btw, I saw a civic in the same color the other day and I have to admit, the pics do it no justice. Very nice.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk




The more things I buy the more excited I get to start the install! Agreed, I have yet to get a picture that does it justice. 


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## WhereAmEye?

I also purchased a ton of wiring from knukonceptz today (1/0 power and ground, fuse holder, distribution blocks, 4 gauge power and ground, 100ft karma speaker wire, etc). I’ve been waiting for Black Friday to buy the wiring and amps and I saved about $300 total.

As stated I’m sending speaker level signal into the helix but for rca out of the helix to the amps I think I’m going to try these from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D...dpPl=1&dpID=51tDOqNZw0L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I need to split most of the signals from the helix so the 1m-to-2m rcas in the link should make life easier.

Hopefully my next update has some actual progress. 


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## WhereAmEye?

I finally removed a piece of plastic! Got some work done on my pillars: aimed them towards the dome lights, stretched cloth, and soaked the cloth in resin and let it cure.






































In memory of how awful the new Justice League movie is I used a flash shirt as my cloth





























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## Weightless

Was it that bad? 

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## WhereAmEye?

Weightless said:


> Was it that bad?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk




If they would have stuck to the darker, almost scarier theme (like the dark knight trilogy) then it would have been better. Instead they tried to make it a semi-comedy like marvel and it just ruined it for me.


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## WhereAmEye?

Mmmmmmmm


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## WhereAmEye?

Another piece of the puzzle arrived today. 





















Now all I need are rcas (I’ll order amazons rcas when I determine the lengths needed), and sound deadener (either raammat or soundskins). And some daylight after work. 



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## mrichard89

Great choice with the unity amps. You will not be disappointed!


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## WhereAmEye?

Got off my lazy butt (only for a couple hours) and did some work on the pillars. I put one layer of filler and got a good sanding session in. 



















They’re starting to take shape. 


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## 1FinalInstall

Looking good! If you want that sanding to be way easier, check out Easy Fabrication spreads. Their spreads are built to sand super easy and it takes a couple steps out of the process.


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## WhereAmEye?

1FinalInstall said:


> Looking good! If you want that sanding to be way easier, check out Easy Fabrication spreads. Their spreads are built to sand super easy and it takes a couple steps out of the process.




I actually was going to try their stuff as soon as I finish off this gallon of rage gold. I think I have enough rage left to finish this install, unless I waste it inside the kick panels instead of clay. Also having a pneumatic sander helps knock the big chunks off quickly. 

Also I think I’m going to get a four pack of soundskins tubes from mobile solutions early next year. I don’t want to deal with mlv this time around, even though it’s good stuff.


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## Babs

I feel your pain.. Yeah it's a character builder if your sanding by hand isn't it. 
GREAT progress!


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## Babs

1FinalInstall said:


> Looking good! If you want that sanding to be way easier, check out Easy Fabrication spreads. Their spreads are built to sand super easy and it takes a couple steps out of the process.


I finally found their website..
https://wewanteasy.com/collections/chem-lab/products/spread

"WARNING! Direct exposure to this product may cause spontaneous creativity!"


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## 1FinalInstall

WhereAmEye? said:


> I actually was going to try their stuff as soon as I finish off this gallon of rage gold. I think I have enough rage left to finish this install, unless I waste it inside the kick panels instead of clay. Also having a pneumatic sander helps knock the big chunks off quickly.
> 
> Also I think I’m going to get a four pack of soundskins tubes from mobile solutions early next year. I don’t want to deal with mlv this time around, even though it’s good stuff.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Soundskins is AMAZING and so easy to install!!!!! I use it in my enclosures as well. You'll love it.


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## 1FinalInstall

Babs said:


> I finally found their website..
> https://wewanteasy.com/collections/chem-lab/products/spread
> 
> "WARNING! Direct exposure to this product may cause spontaneous creativity!"


All you have to do is knock it down with 40, then final coat it. After that, it's ready for poly prime. So, so easy.


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## Weightless

As in 40 grit? I don't think I even have anything that coarse.

I've been wanting to try some of the easy stuff. 

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## WhereAmEye?

Got one more layer of filler, a good sanding, and a thin layer of primer to get a uniform color.

The arsenal:





































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## Arete

Those pillars look great!


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## WhereAmEye?

Arete said:


> Those pillars look great!




Thanks!

My local upholstery buddy is going to wrap them for me. Black vinyl will match the interior leather but suede might look good too..I’ll decide after looking at what he has available. 


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## chasinbass

They look great ! Can I ask what your using that sticks to plastic ? Are you just using fiberglass resin ?
Also when you glued you fleece or T-shirt material down what glue did you use ? I have done a couple sets of pillars now and am always looking to improve. Those self leveling fillers look like a good investment for time sake anyways ? I have bodywork skills so forming and shaping come easy for me in fact my last set only had one dime size bit of filler on them as I spent a considerable amount of time getting the t shirt material very tight and smooth to start with and subsequent layers of glass keeping it all very smooth and just sanded and primed and textured with SEM bumper texture and painted to match my interior and you can’t tell they weren’t OEM. Getting ready to start another set for bigger mids and teeets soon. 

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## 1FinalInstall

chasinbass said:


> They look great ! Can I ask what your using that sticks to plastic ? Are you just using fiberglass resin ?
> Also when you glued you fleece or T-shirt material down what glue did you use ? I have done a couple sets of pillars now and am always looking to improve. Those self leveling fillers look like a good investment for time sake anyways ? I have bodywork skills so forming and shaping come easy for me in fact my last set only had one dime size bit of filler on them as I spent a considerable amount of time getting the t shirt material very tight and smooth to start with and subsequent layers of glass keeping it all very smooth and just sanded and primed and textured with SEM bumper texture and painted to match my interior and you can’t tell they weren’t OEM. Getting ready to start another set for bigger mids and teeets soon.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've found fiberglass resin, fumed sili/cacabosil & 1/8 chop strand cut into tiny pieces works best. It mixes up to the consistency of vasoline or grease and can be applied with a tongue depressor. It's way harder than any other method. After it hardens, all it needs is a light skim and it's ready to be wrapped.


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## 1FinalInstall

Arete said:


> Those pillars look great!


+1 Nice work!


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## chasinbass

Not even going to play like I know what “fumed sili / cacabosil “ is ?


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## 1FinalInstall

chasinbass said:


> Not even going to play like I know what “fumed sili / cacabosil “ is ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It thickens fiberglass resin. You can buy it from either a composite store or Amazon. You mix 1.5% hardener to resin first, then add in a little bit of cut 1/8 strand. This gives you around an hour work time. Then dust the fumed silica in until you get the consistency you desire. It will stay vertical and can be molded in place. It's way harder then cloth soaked with resin. 

Sorry for hijacking your thread, this is good info to have though.


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## chasinbass

Nice ! Thanks for the tip !


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## darryldarryl

subscribed! nice thread, been wanting to see some points as I drive a civic hatch as well. planning also to build my audio system in the near future


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## Brules

Just got my SA components running - wow........you are gonna love them!


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## thornygravy

You have nice hair. Oh yeah, and those pillars are dope too lol.


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## WhereAmEye?

One day I’ll be of help but it’s too cold and dark after work to get anything done. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll at least have some daylight to work with. 

I can’t wait to enjoy them!

Lol I wish I had that hair.


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## WhereAmEye?

Ayye an update. I’m finally regaining motivation to get all my gear installed, now that its warming up. I’m waiting on my stereo Integrity mkv’s (hopefully early April but who knows) and soundskins multi pack. 

This is a perfunctory post in terms of audio but I did want to talk about my new roof rack by rhino rack; I highly recommend them now that I’ve had hands on experience with them. Built very solidly but sleek. I’m using the hybrid bike carrier add-on but only have one for now. 




















Within the next couple weekends I’ll finish the pillars and run the wires to the back of the car.




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## Coppertone

Nice, really like how sturdy it seems. I also have a Honda and a Subaru Legacy so we are almost twins.

















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## WhereAmEye?

Coppertone said:


> Nice, really like how sturdy it seems. I also have a Honda and a Subaru Legacy so we are almost twins.
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Lol took me a minute to get it...that’s my sisters subaru. She won’t let me touch the sound system 


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## Coppertone

Oh lol, I just assumed you had them both. Is hers a 3.6R ? I went with the 2.5GT Limited for the turbo.










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## mrichard89

Any updates on how those pillars turned out, or how the SA speakers sound?


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## WhereAmEye?

mrichard89 said:


> Any updates on how those pillars turned out, or how the SA speakers sound?




No sir unfortunately not. When I started I knew I didn’t want to drive around with half my panels laying in the garage at all times (like my previous poor car). But it seems like finding the time to do it right the first time is taking forever. And I’m spending free time mountain biking and honestly I’m full of dumb excuses why it’s not done 

But your timing is almost perfect because I should FINALLY be getting my mkv subs next week (it’s only about five months later than I expected)


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## WhereAmEye?

WOOHOO!!















































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## Coppertone

Good deal as I’m feeling that I will need (1)for the install in my Ram 1500.


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## ck4242

In case you hadn't already seen this build....and wanted ideas for sub mounting...
He has one on each side. If someone built these things for sale....I'd buy one in a heart beat!
(His build thread)


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## Curt D

Ideas for ya. I just did a false floor. I used the stock hardboard floor and trunk liner. I cut and reused the foam blocks. Floor is about an inch lower and cf is .54 per side.


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## WhereAmEye?

Curt D said:


> Ideas for ya. I just did a false floor. I used the stock hardboard floor and trunk liner. I cut and reused the foam blocks. Floor is about an inch lower and cf is .54 per side.




Yooo nice. I’ll keep the pictures for future reference.


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## captainobvious

As a tip for building pillars, I would *highly* recommend that in the future when you build them, make sure you go over the entire a pillar panel with a very rough grit to get the slick factory finish roughened up. Also drill some small holes around the mounting area and finally, scoring the panel with razor blades in 2 directions in a cross pattern. I do this for all my builds now for the sole purpose of providing maximum adhesion to the panel of the materials you are applying. Plastic A pillar, sail and kick panels have a fiar amount of flex. Body filler/fiberglass does not and tends to break away from the plastic surface with any amount of flex. It's just another step to ensure all the hard work done in shaping and sanding doesn't go to waste with a failure.


Nice job overall and looking forward to seeing more progress!




-Steve


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## nyquistrate

Just found this build. Have you had a listening test with any of those speakers?


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## WhereAmEye?

nyquistrate said:


> Just found this build. Have you had a listening test with any of those speakers?




No I haven’t. Outside or inside a car.


I threw away my old pillars, I hated the bulge around the tweeter. I’m going to start on a new set with a much more flush look. I’ll try to have pictures by the end of the week with actual progress 


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## WhereAmEye?

PRROOGGRREESSSSSSS!

I finally spent a full day getting a good chunk of work out of the way. I completed the work under the hood, ran the driver side wires all the way to the back (1/0 power, x3 runs of 16 gauge in case I get midranges down the road, and a long usb cable for either tuning or a helix usb HEC piece), and removed the back seats and all rear panels.

I can’t remember if I mentioned it before but I upgrade the battery two weeks after I bought the car to a xs power D5100R with dual posts. 

Had a buddy weld a super simple L-bracket to mount the fuse holder. It attaches to the heat shield of the plastic shield of the battery. 













































The grommet was super easy to work with, the easiest I’ve ever worked with honestly. 



























I added an extra 1/0 ground cable too




































And here’s the finished pictures of the battery (minus the fuse in the fuse holder)



















And here’s just a couple pictures of the run to the back of the car. 



























And the empty trunk. 










The plan is to do 75% of the work this week and then finish up over the next few weeks. 



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## WhereAmEye?

I ordered a package of RAAMMat that should be here Wednesday, which is barring me from putting the car back together for now. I plan on putting butyl and foam on all the panels so that I can accentuate all the little unsolvable buzzes in the car 

But all I had time to do today was run the speaker wires and rca down the passenger side.




















I’m still deciding how I want to arrange the trunk layout. Mids are definitely going in the kicks, tweeters in the pillars. 


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## captainobvious

Nice, clean work. Well done.


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## WhereAmEye?

captainobvious said:


> Nice, clean work. Well done.




Thank you sir!

Update:
The deadener arrived a day early so I worked on deadening all evening after work. 

































































I used a few sticky zip tie mounts here:




























Here’s where I ended the day. Perfect setup for building the false floor; I need to drill a hole for the system ground when I start on the floor.











Overview:
- All the work under the hood is finished.
- All the wires are run from the kick panels to the trunk.
- All the deadening on the main body is finished (as far as I’m going). I still need to deaden all five doors though.
- I need to mould the kicks and pillars.
- I need to figure out the layout for the trunk and the location for the system ground.




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## WhereAmEye?

I was able to get the first step of the kick panels completed today 

Tape behind the panels:



















Replace the panels after scuffing them up:




























(I moved the fuse panel sticker to inside my dash)



















Plastic to protect the leather:










(I worked in a buddies garage today)





































I’ll leave them to cure overnight and then start adding more layers. I already cut the rings, but here’s another picture for post fluidity.












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## JCsAudio

Are those RCA cables run right up next to the power cable? Can’t tell for sure in the pictures but if they are than it’s a no, no, because it can introduce noise into the cables from EMI. Just trying to save you some trouble if that’s the case. 

Otherwise nice a clean install.


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## WhereAmEye?

V8toilet said:


> Are those RCA cables run right up next to the power cable? Can’t tell for sure in the pictures but if they are than it’s a no, no, because it can introduce noise into the cables from EMI. Just trying to save you some trouble if that’s the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise nice a clean install.




Lol that is technically an rca cable but I’m using it as my remote wire. The audio signal rca is on the passenger side. 

I think I gave my remote wire to a friend for his install and forgot to buy more so I decided to reutilize an old rca cable I had in the basement. 


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## JCsAudio

WhereAmEye? said:


> Lol that is technically an rca cable but I’m using it as my remote wire. The audio signal rca is on the passenger side.
> 
> I think I gave my remote wire to a friend for his install and forgot to buy more so I decided to reutilize an old rca cable I had in the basement.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds good man, wouldn't want to see you make a simple mistake after doing all that work that might hurt the SQ of the system, been there done that myself and learned the hard way. I would still consider getting an 18 gauge wire for the remote turn on lead over the RCA wire only because in my experience those RCA wires tend to use very thin/small gauge wire that may be kind of iffy for that application. You can always put a small load on it with something like a small motor with a 1-2 amp draw and measure the voltage drop across the wire to see if it passes the test. You don't want to see more than .5 volts drop from battery. 

Keep the pictures coming, I've done what your doing on 9 different vehicles of my own now, and its exciting every time a do it!


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## WhereAmEye?

I appreciate the comments; I don’t like being the only one talking 

Update:
I didn’t get much done today. I had other things to do but I did manage to make some new tweeter rings out of 1/2” mdf.











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## Notloudenuf

Let's talk about important things. 
What are the dimensions of those work tables? I just built a shop and those look like good sizes that I could build.


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## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> Let's talk about important things.
> 
> What are the dimensions of those work tables? I just built a shop and those look like good sizes that I could build.




It’s essentially an L-shape using two full 4x8 sheets of plywood. Then the table saw pushed against the inner angle. I can get some actually dimensions later this week when I go over there again. 


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## WhereAmEye?

I had to install a radio/backup camera in a friend’s truck today so I didn’t really get any work done on my car this weekend. But I did aim the rings for my tweeters! I’m super stoked on how they’ll look; plus I aimed them both at my head so I’m more stoked on how they’ll sound. 










I have to remove some plastic at the inner portion of the driver side pillar, but I’m waiting until I strengthen the pillar with fiberglass/filler because they’re already super flimsy. 






















































You can barely see the shallow cut here; that’s roughly how I want to shape the cutout. I want a smooth transition from pillar to speaker. 











I have confidence that my usual guy can get a good flat vinyl finish on them when I’m done shaping them. He rarely uses 4-way stretch vinyl but might have to with these. 



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## Niebur3

I may have missed it, why didn't you do sails instead (since the factory tweeter location is there)?


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## WhereAmEye?

Niebur3 said:


> I may have missed it, why didn't you do sails instead (since the factory tweeter location is there)?




Oh I definitely thought about it..










They are a near perfect fit. But two things:
1) I wanted the challenge of making a pillars
2) I want to keep the sails empty so that I can put midranges there in the future. I’ve never tried Mids in the sails before and figured I’d try it just to keep things fresh.

Edit: just to clarify I plan on keeping it a 2way setup for a while. I want to enjoy this specific component set as is to see how good they really are. 

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## sq2k1

Had a quick question for you where....is the fuse panel for the car located behind the left side kickpanel or elsewhere? I am interested in the new civics myself.


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## WhereAmEye?

sq2k1 said:


> Had a quick question for you where....is the fuse panel for the car located behind the left side kickpanel or elsewhere? I am interested in the new civics myself.




The fuse panel is up inside the dash, not behind the kick panel.



Small update: I put another layer of glass on the kick panels, stretched grill cloth for the pillars, and covered the cloth in resin. 










I tried a new method to get the general shape that I wanted. I glued the entire front of the ring first and then pulled the cloth around that. Plus I used a grinder to rough up the glued spots.




















And for the driver side pillar I cut the shape I wanted and used part of a bottle to get more curves from the grill cloth. 


































































Obviously there’s a lot of grinding to do but I think it’ll be easier to get the shape I want with this method. 

Edit: it’s hard to tell in the pics but the bottle was NOT permanently set in the pillar. I just pressed it against the cloth, used ca glue to harden the cloth into the shape, then tore off the bottle. So the filler will be going onto glue/resin, not a bottle. Just thought I’d clarify that. 

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## WhereAmEye?

Here’s the pillars after one layer of filler and a good grinding/sanding 


































































One step closer 


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## SkizeR

ahh sanding.. the fun part!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

SkizeR said:


> ahh sanding.. the fun part!




Yeah...fun...that’s the word
Lol


I admit though. Sanding does relax me after a long day of work...plug in my earphones and go to town and when I look up its nighttime.


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## WhereAmEye?

One last picture after a small layer of primer. It’s looking rough but the shape is finally there. 











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## WhereAmEye?

I’ll have another update later tonight but I got another good layer of filler on the left pillar, along with a good sanding. 

My new favorite method of spreading filler is using my hands..























































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## WhereAmEye?

Couple more for tonight. I’m getting tired so I decided to stop for the night so I don’t screw something up.

I used some fiberglass-reinforced filler for the build-ups and stuffed it inside the pods.




























Here’s the passenger side. Boring compared to the drivers side but it works for what I need. I want to modify the portion between the ring and the top of the pillar but I’ll have to just show the difference when I finish them. 





























I’ll let this layer of primer cure overnight then finish up body work tomorrow. My buddy is going to wrap them next week 






































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## WhereAmEye?

Passenger pillar is ready for vinyl 
























































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## WhereAmEye?

And driver side..






































I’m starting back on the kick panels now. It’d be nice to drop off the pillars and the kicks next week but I’m not sure if I’ll be done with the kicks that soon. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Kicks so far. I aimed the rings and partially secured them with hot glue, marked the general shape of the pods with a sharpie, and cut them/ground them to size.

Per Eric’s advice via email, I’m aiming the mids directly at the opposite headrests. I’ll also cut a big hole in the back of the pods to let the speakers vent into the floorboard (also his advice).
























































Next I’ll cut square hole on the sides of each, wrap fiberglass around the holes to reinforce the pods, secure the rings thoroughly with sticks and hot glue, wrap them, resin them, fill them with resin/filler milkshake, make them smooth, and wrap them. Easy peasy. 


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## sq2k1

Will be interesting to see the end product with the kickpanels.... I'll be tuning in for sure.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

sq2k1 said:


> Will be interesting to see the end product with the kickpanels.... I'll be tuning in for sure.




I’ve never made kick panels before. I’ve always had either a fuse box or parking brake to worry about. But in this car the fuse box is up in the dash and the parking brake is controlled by a switch in the center console. I know it looks like these kicks stick out a lot but I have tons of leg room to sacrifice.


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## Notloudenuf

WhereAmEye? said:


> Kicks so far. I aimed the rings and partially secured them with hot glue, marked the general shape of the pods with a sharpie, and cut them/ground them to size.
> 
> Next I’ll cut square hole on the sides of each, wrap fiberglass around the holes to reinforce the pods, secure the rings thoroughly with sticks and hot glue, wrap them, resin them, fill them with resin/filler milkshake, make them smooth, and wrap them. Easy peasy.


Yep you're basically done. 

The pillars look really good. Good workl.


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## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> Yep you're basically done.
> 
> 
> 
> The pillars look really good. Good workl.




Thanks man, appreciate it!

Besides, the hard part is over (ripping the panels out for the first time)


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## WhereAmEye?

Good news. 1) I dropped off my pillars to be wrapped and I should have them installed by end of week. 2) I researched and found that certain models of the civic don’t have tweeters in the sail panels; I bought a set of these because I think it’ll look much better only having one set of tweeters up front. They won’t be here until next week though.


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## sq2k1

That's some good info about the parking brake and fuse panel.... makes me want to get a civic hatch even more so now....time to bury my current ride....just ready for a change as my current car is actually still decent.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

sq2k1 said:


> That's some good info about the parking brake and fuse panel.... makes me want to get a civic hatch even more so now....time to bury my current ride....just ready for a change as my current car is actually still decent.




My previous car was a good Nissan Altima and it only had like 130k miles on it. But I was like you, just wanted a change. 


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## schmiddr2

I'm really enjoying my 16' sedan EX-L. I drive a lot of interstate and average about 40mpg. Although I'm not too thrilled with the turbo and CVT lag.

I was also wondering about a 3" in the sails. Seems like it could be difficult to tune with one driver being that close to the driver.

Your install is really well thought out and is looking good. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest.


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## WhereAmEye?

My route to work is mainly 35mph limit so I’m down about 31mpg. Definitely not complaining though, it’s fun to drive. 

I have my seat all the way back, all the way down, and leaning back quite a bit. I can’t get much further away from the speakers regardless of where they are at so I’ll do that old adage, install for the best tune the rest.

Thanks for the compliments!


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## WhereAmEye?

Got some good progress on the kicks today. Made the square hole, reinforced that with glass, glued more sticks in place, pulled grill cloth, and soaked that with resin and a small bit of glass. 

(The pipe cleaners was a spur of the moment idea. I drilled four holes, threaded them through the holes, twisted them tightly to have a pretty good fit, then soaked them in resin. The goal was to have it be a mechanical connection along with the chemical/resin connection)



























































































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## WhereAmEye?

One more for tonight. I should have the milkshake poured and the first layer of filler applied Thursday; I might even have my pillars in by then 











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## WhereAmEye?

Did the milkshake and a layer of reinforced filler on the outside. Plus a light sanding to prep for the smooth filler. 





























After this cures I’ll lay tape in my kick area, install these in place, and rage gold the outside perimeter to have a pretty flush fit with the carpet. 


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## GreatLaBroski

Nice work!


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## WhereAmEye?

GreatLaBroski said:


> Nice work!




Thanks!




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## WhereAmEye?

I have a super busy weekend so it’ll be a few days before another update. But I cleaned up the back of the pods and got a decently smooth first finish on the driver side pod. 

Also, I ordered a Dsp pro mkii and a director from a local dealer 

Just to show how much leg room I have left. I’m 6’2” and as stated I have the seat as far back as allowed. So results may vary lol. 





























I removed the glue from the stretched grill cloth to recreate the smooth finish on the back. 











And again, using the glove-spreader method.









I have to fix that area near the top unfortunately. 













Edit: the gaps in the first pictures are not going to be there in the end. I just haven’t taped/filled that area yet

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## Notloudenuf

That's looking good. Glad to hear you got another Helix.

Also, where are your shoe laces?


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## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> That's looking good. Glad to hear you got another Helix.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, where are your shoe laces?




Yeah I’m super stoked about the helix! I’m hoping to mould the director above my right knee on the panel that goes under the steering wheel. Then when I get the hec usb I’ll have the usb cable routed out the right side of the same panel and come out near the same location as the factory usb cable.

Honestly I washed these shoes about two months ago and one day in a rush I threw them on without the laces and they worked fine without them. So I just never replaced them. True story 



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## WhereAmEye?

Today I was able to get the passenger-side kick semi-finished, at least up to the same point as the driver-side.





































And I also received a picture from my boy..










Hopefully that^^ means I can have the tweeters installed tomorrow. Not hooked up for a while, but at least being pretty 


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## JCsAudio

Nice job on the finished A pillar. How did you get that wrinkled factory look to look like a factory pillar? That is the part that I just don't know enough about.


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## GreatLaBroski

V8toilet said:


> Nice job on the finished A pillar. How did you get that wrinkled factory look to look like a factory pillar? That is the part that I just don't know enough about.


He wrapped it with leather-patterned vinyl. There’s many different types that have a leather pattern and you can find one which matches your interior’s material.


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## WhereAmEye?

Got the pillars in today ayyye




























































































They each ended up aiming at my opposite ear so that’s good enough for me. 





























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## GreatLaBroski

Those turned out great!!


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## Notloudenuf

GreatLaBroski said:


> Those turned out great!!


Agreed! how long before someone says "Wow you got 2 sets of tweeters in there?"


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## WhereAmEye?

Thanks Broski!

Notloudenuf, I’m expecting the pm any second now about how it’ll negatively affect the soundstage to have two tweeters on each side haha


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## JCsAudio

Incredible job man, you have inspired me to maybe give this a shot at some point in the future.


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## WhereAmEye?

V8toilet said:


> Incredible job man, you have inspired me to maybe give this a shot at some point in the future.




Go for it dude! Even if your first set looks like a kindergarten project they’ll get better 


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## Eric Stevens

Well done!!


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## WhereAmEye?

Eric Stevens said:


> Well done!!




Thank you sir! Very much appreciated 


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## WhereAmEye?

Not a good way to start a conversation










Apparently my buddy’s supplier quit carrying helix but never took it off their site. So I’m going to use something else for now and get a helix later. 

But I got a nice picture this morning 










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## Niebur3

Very nice looking!


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## WhereAmEye?

I felt really bad for reusing an rca in what’s supposed to be my best build yet so I ordered 200 ft of remote wire from knukonceptz. I’ll rewire the driver side with the remote wire and the dsp controller cable. 










Edited...
I’m buying a showroom helix dsp.2 from my dealer so I’m back to square one (since he can’t sell helix anymore he doesn’t want it displayed). But I also bought a director with the dmp so I’ll make a mount to bolt onto the underside of the dash (I’ll put pictures up to clarify).




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## GreatLaBroski

WhereAmEye? said:


> I also bought the mini dsp 6x8 from broski to hold me over until I can afford a helix


On its way!


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## WhereAmEye?

Here’s the only pictures I have, which are actually from last week I just never posted them. I’m going on a trip this coming weekend so I won’t have much more work complete until Labor Day weekend.




















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## cjbrownco

Really digging your car and your build, can't wait to see the finished product.


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## WhereAmEye?

cjbrownco said:


> Really digging your car and your build, can't wait to see the finished product.




Yeah same. My goal is to have it finished before 2019 lol.


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## WhereAmEye?

Just as an update I’m almost finished with the kicks. I’ll drop them off to my buddy for vinyl Thursday and might have them installed next week. I am worried that he’s going to tell me it’s impossible and I’ll have to paint them but I’ll cross that bridge only if I have to. No pictures yet though, sorry. Except this one..











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## WhereAmEye?

Here’s some real pics. I think I’m finished with them, I’ll drop them off to my buddy tomorrow for wrapping but he’s busy so it’ll probably be a few week before he’s wrapped them.






























Side note: I got some stuff in the mail yesterday. 











I just put the dash cover on, but it’s too dark for good pics.

I forgot how big the director was so most of my plans have died for it, however it should still work well right above my left knee. I’ll mould a mount for it sometime soon. And I haven’t even touched the trunk yet. 


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## Bnlcmbcar

Which material did you go with for the dash cover? 

I had my Director placed under the AC controls with a piece of wrapped MDF


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## WhereAmEye?

Bnlcmbcar said:


> Which material did you go with for the dash cover?
> 
> 
> 
> I had my Director placed under the AC controls with a piece of wrapped MDF




Black velour.

I definitely considered that location. But I use that cubby for my wallet and keys, plus I didn’t want the gear shifter blocking the touch screen. Yours looks sweet tho!

Also: what’s up with your dash? The ac knobs with the rubber pieces and the buttons directly above the “climate” button

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## Bnlcmbcar

WhereAmEye? said:


> Black velour.
> 
> I definitely considered that location. But I use that cubby for my wallet and keys, plus I didn’t want the gear shifter blocking the touch screen. Yours looks sweet tho!
> 
> Also: what’s up with your dash? The ac knobs with the rubber pieces and the buttons directly above the “climate” button
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It’s a rough DIY solution for me to use both an iPad and stock headunit at the same time. 

I used a magbak magnet system for iPad mini 4. I can snap it in front, atop, or below the stock screen by mounting these Sorbothane rubber bumpers in 3 certain locations. Here’s my YouTube video showing what I mean:






https://youtu.be/ZixMjx4q2o8


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## OCD66

That's some tasty fab work. Nice job so far.


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## ErinH

Looking good, man. Nice work!


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## WhereAmEye?

Yo that iPad mount is pretty sick. I’ll probably steal the idea if I get an iPad lol.

Thanks for the compliments ocd and Erin, keeps me motivated!


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## Justintime

WhereAmEye? said:


> Here’s some real pics. I think I’m finished with them, I’ll drop them off to my buddy tomorrow for wrapping but he’s busy so it’ll probably be a few week before he’s wrapped them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/d903cc68ec9f38ebea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
> 
> Very nice work. Give me motivation to attempt kick fabrication for my Dyn 182. Is that primer that you coated them with after the Rage Gold coat ? Thank you for the info


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## TREOSOLS

like the way this build is going


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## WhereAmEye?

Justintime said:


> Very nice work. Give me motivation to attempt kick fabrication for my Dyn 182. Is that primer that you coated them with after the Rage Gold coat ? Thank you for the info




After the initial cloth/resin I put a thick layer of glass-reinforced filler. Then I do a rough sand with a 90deg pneumatic grinder. Then several layers/sanding sessions of rage gold. I used SEM sandable primer to give it a uniform look to see what I need to fix with more filler. 


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## WhereAmEye?

TREOSOLS said:


> like the way this build is going




Thanks!


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## WhereAmEye?

I dropped off the kicks today so the next time you see them they’ll be installed!

Since I got the last cable I needed I rewired the driver side. The bundle includes:
-x3 sets of speaker wire (for the 3” down the road)
-x3 runs of remote wire in case I need extra signals
-x1 run of 1/0 knu kollosus
-x1 usb to connect my phone to the helix hex usb 
-x1 Director cable

I secured zip ties every 6” this time, then some tape.





















Perhaps this weekend I can get started on the amp rack.


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## 06S2k07Si

Very nice work Brother! ...watching...I have a 2018 Type R that I'm planning to begin on this winter...getting ideas! Thanks!


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## WhereAmEye?

06S2k07Si said:


> Very nice work Brother! ...watching...I have a 2018 Type R that I'm planning to begin on this winter...getting ideas! Thanks!




Nice. I peaked my budget with the EX-L, couldn’t justify a bigger car payment, although they do look sick.


Update: the kicks are wrapped and I’ll be picking them up tomorrow. Hope to have them installed by this weekend, dependent on what Florence does.


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## 06S2k07Si

WhereAmEye? said:


> Nice. I peaked my budget with the EX-L, couldn’t justify a bigger car payment, although they do look sick.
> 
> 
> Update: the kicks are wrapped and I’ll be picking them up tomorrow. Hope to have them installed by this weekend, dependent on what Florence does.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome! Looking forward to seeing them! Good luck with that storm!

I'd post some pics of some of my projects but since this site made me redo everything a while ago I'm back to near zero status!  (can go to S2ki.com and look up my same username and look through my picture gallery if you'd like)

Truly though...keep up the excellent work! I came up in the audio scene in the early to late 90''s and you just don't see this level of involvement much anymore! ...here's your "atta boy"! 

Brian


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## 06S2k07Si

...oh...on another note...where can one get these SA drivers?


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## WhereAmEye?

06S2k07Si said:


> ...oh...on another note...where can one get these SA drivers?




Go to the Stevens page on Facebook and there’s a shop inside Facebook. Then a link sends you to Paypal to pay for what you want. 

Side note: I don’t have a Facebook account but was still able to go the page. So no worries if you don’t have an account.


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## 06S2k07Si

WhereAmEye? said:


> Go to the Stevens page on Facebook and there’s a shop inside Facebook. Then a link sends you to Paypal to pay for what you want.
> 
> Side note: I don’t have a Facebook account but was still able to go the page. So no worries if you don’t have an account.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Excellent! Thank you!


----------



## Eric Stevens

06S2k07Si said:


> ...oh...on another note...where can one get these SA drivers?


You can message me here as well as on Shop on the Stevens Audiio FB page or through dealers.


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## WhereAmEye?

Yoooo











Kicks are finished!

Here they are wrapped in black vinyl. Somehow my guy got it all without stitches, although the area at the hood latch was painted black and might be fixed later.



















First I machined some aluminum rings and buffed them shiny 









Then I put some deadener and ensolite in important places. 




























Then they were installed and wired up. 



















I need to vacuum and reinstall some panels and then I’ll have a nice photo shoot but here’s some dirty pics.




















I also put the Velcro and dashmat down. 






































Next up is the director mount and then onto the trunk 




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## 06S2k07Si

Looks smokin good! Very nice! ...again...excellent! 

Looks similar to what I'm doing in my buddies 1991 CRX Si...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2..._88d9c0199dab12991e8ecb6b1b5258d77910fca9.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2..._63b6b5b3addff8c6eb3f5497b0c6db76532963e2.jpg

...my gallery...

https://www.s2ki.com/g/album/6239882/1/recent


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## 06S2k07Si

...link to dash pad?


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## WhereAmEye?

06S2k07Si said:


> ...link to dash pad?




https://www.dashdesigns.com/p-37086-dashcovers-main.html


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## Redliner99

WhereAmEye? said:


> https://www.dashdesigns.com/p-37086-dashcovers-main.html
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




What material did you choose?


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## WhereAmEye?

Redliner99 said:


> What material did you choose?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Black velour


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## WhereAmEye?

I haven’t had any time during the day to get good pics but here are some that are better than the last ones.





























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## Notloudenuf

Excellent work! I'm looking forward to hearing this in the spring.


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## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> Excellent work! I'm looking forward to hearing this in the spring.




Yeah I’d like to hear it by spring too -_-


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## WhereAmEye?

Well this thread really died...my bad. I got burnout pretty bad and just took a break, then worked 55 hour weeks during the winter, then moved out of my parents house in March. I’ve been super busy but decided to spend this long weekend finishing up (fingers crossed haha).

Two things: I sold the stereo integrity subs and decided to use the diyma 12’s I had in my basement. And, I got the original amps I wanted (Arc xdi 1200.6 and 1100.1) and sold the hats. Should get more power and they look cleaner with the helix. 

Also, I have a dsp.2, usb module for it, and director.

Today I focused on building the box so tomorrow I can focus on mounting the amps and finish wiring it all up. I still need to come up with a place for the director but I doubt I’ll have time tomorrow. 

So onto what I did today. Below I drew 4 circles. The top 2 are M6 holes that I used for mounting and the bottom 2 are little folds on the trunk liner I used as a stopping point. 





















































































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## WhereAmEye?

Forgot to mention the box is a weird shape to make up for the trunk angles. And covered the corners in silicone. 

And the box is roughly 1.7 cuft net space. 



















The amps will straddle the dsp on the front of the box and then I’ll make some shrouds out of 1/2” mdf to make it look decent. 


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## WhereAmEye?

It’s freakin hot outside.

I made some holes in the box, laid vinyl, mounted the amps and dsp, mounted the grounding lug and started on the wiring.



















































































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----------



## WhereAmEye?

I went ahead and mounted the box and subs just to get a visual. After I make the cover piece and the new floor piece it should blend well and still give me plenty of room for groceries and golf clubs.




















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## seafish

^^^^ that sure looks NICE!!!! Great work !!!


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## seafish

^^^ That being said (LOL!!!) you know it wouldn't hurt to add a pice of MDF (maybe 3/4 height of the sub box, attached to the top baffle and sides right between the 2 sub holes) as cross bracing to help stiffen up that large baffle and also the enclosure sides. It would take about 15 minutes to do right.

Just my free .02 to add to your awesome work!!!


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## WhereAmEye?

seafish said:


> ^^^ That being said (LOL!!!) you know it wouldn't hurt to add a pice of MDF (maybe 3/4 height of the sub box, attached to the top baffle and sides right between the 2 sub holes) as cross bracing to help stiffen up that large baffle and also the enclosure sides. It would take about 15 minutes to do right.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my free .02 to add to your awesome work!!!




Yeah you’re definitely right. It’s been so long since I’ve made a basic sealed box that some of the necessities (like braces) came into my head after I had already built it lol. But I’ll see what I can do to get some extra support on the baffle, thanks!


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## oabeieo

WhereAmEye? said:


> I haven’t had any time during the day to get good pics but here are some that are better than the last ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




How’s the SA6 in those kicks, do they ring horribly bad? Have you cut a hole to the outside of car yet I couldn’t see in pics 


Looks nice tho  love the ES drivers !


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> How’s the SA6 in those kicks, do they ring horribly bad? Have you cut a hole to the outside of car yet I couldn’t see in pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice tho  love the ES drivers !




I hate to say it but they haven’t seen power yet. Just been sitting pretty for 6 months.

And heck no, I haven’t had the courage to mutilate it yet. Thanks for the props though. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Modified the picture with my iPad to get an idea of what I want. 











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## oabeieo

WhereAmEye? said:


> I hate to say it but they haven’t seen power yet. Just been sitting pretty for 6 months.
> 
> And heck no, I haven’t had the courage to mutilate it yet. Thanks for the props though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Oh man, yeah I’ve done a lot of kicks , and I just did my own, I vented to outside of car , but that wasn’t enough, I ended up drilling about 10 -2” holes all over them to stop the ringing and get the acoustical impedance down. 

They rang so bad under 300hz it was completely unlistenable, you could eq down those areas and just live with the colorations , however just looking at those they look like there going to ring pretty bad. My guess is at 200hz or close to 

Yeah I saw you cut the back out which will help a lot, I would cut the back out even farther to the point there is no back. I would cut all the way to where your vynil is wrapped over the bottom and around so you don’t cut into the vynil or anything you will see but cut everything else out, get rid of any obstructions made of fiberglass and put the kick in and have back of speaker just resting on cars carpet and than put a towel or thin foam to slow the air particles down at the higher frequencies like near 2-3khz , the rest will act as much as a dipole as possible and would definitely try it and let the back of the speaker play into the car anywhere you don’t see it. 

In my car I used the factory trim just like yours , I was going to vynil but used a stretch suede cause vynil would show the holes I drilled all over them. 


So I would do that at a minimum if you don’t want to go to outside (it’s just a hole that can be patched easily) 



Those speakers are very very good , if you don’t do any of this just know it’s not the speakers that sound boomy it’s the pods


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> Oh man, yeah I’ve done a lot of kicks , and I just did my own, I vented to outside of car , but that wasn’t enough, I ended up drilling about 10 -2” holes all over them to stop the ringing and get the acoustical impedance down.
> 
> 
> 
> They rang so bad under 300hz it was completely unlistenable, you could eq down those areas and just live with the colorations , however just looking at those they look like there going to ring pretty bad. My guess is at 200hz or close to
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I saw you cut the back out which will help a lot, I would cut the back out even farther to the point there is no back. I would cut all the way to where your vynil is wrapped over the bottom and around so you don’t cut into the vynil or anything you will see but cut everything else out, get rid of any obstructions made of fiberglass and put the kick in and have back of speaker just resting on cars carpet and than put a towel or thin foam to slow the air particles down at the higher frequencies like near 2-3khz , the rest will act as much as a dipole as possible and would definitely try it and let the back of the speaker play into the car anywhere you don’t see it.
> 
> 
> 
> In my car I used the factory trim just like yours , I was going to vynil but used a stretch suede cause vynil would show the holes I drilled all over them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I would do that at a minimum if you don’t want to go to outside (it’s just a hole that can be patched easily)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those speakers are very very good , if you don’t do any of this just know it’s not the speakers that sound boomy it’s the pods




Thanks for the insight, I really appreciate it. After letting them play as-is for a while I’ll start modifying some stuff. Right now I’m motivated to get them simply playing so I don’t want to backtrack yet. (Same goes with the bracing inside the box)


Updates:

After work I was able to wire everything up except the speaker wires (like “uh idiot” I didn’t label them in the beginning). But sitting in the wheel well scrunched up was a fun yoga exercise lol. 





























I love this pic 










So now I need to load a basic setup into the helix, get a camera kit for the usb input, and start powering up all the speakers 

Also I’ll need to make the beauty panels when I get another full day.


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## oabeieo

For sure ,

It’s lookin really good. 
Are you going to compete at all. I bet you might do pretty good. 
It’s really nice to see kicks still being made , a bit refreshing from apillars , still see a few but not as much anymore. Are you going for two seat tuning or driver focused? 
I bet you could get a pretty good two seat tune with that helix it has enough correctivness available


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> For sure ,
> 
> It’s lookin really good.
> Are you going to compete at all. I bet you might do pretty good.
> It’s really nice to see kicks still being made , a bit refreshing from apillars , still see a few but not as much anymore. Are you going for two seat tuning or driver focused?
> I bet you could get a pretty good two seat tune with that helix it has enough correctivness available


When I was just getting into car audio my dream car was a G35 so naturally I started looking at all of SimplicityInSound's work and since then I've always wanted a set of kicks.

I aimed the tweeters at myself and planned on making it a one-seater.

I doubt I'll compete with it, not really my thing. But I would like to finally make it to the NC GTG with a working system


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Well I inserted the main fuse and got both amps and the helix powered up. Connected the director and got it hooked up to the laptop and I thought it was good but I can’t figure out the usb input.










I get that ^^ message when I try the phone. I got the Apple usb 3 camera kit to make sure it’s official. And I didn’t get any other signal to the helix yet, this was all I was going to use, so I gotta stick with the stock system some more until I can figure it out or get some rca hi-level inputs for the time being. 


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## oabeieo

WhereAmEye? said:


> Well I inserted the main fuse and got both amps and the helix powered up. Connected the director and got it hooked up to the laptop and I thought it was good but I can’t figure out the usb input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get that ^^ message when I try the phone. I got the Apple usb 3 camera kit to make sure it’s official. And I didn’t get any other signal to the helix yet, this was all I was going to use, so I gotta stick with the stock system some more until I can figure it out or get some rca hi-level inputs for the time being.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Dang it ! 

Oh the joys of toys


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> Dang it !
> 
> 
> 
> Oh the joys of toys




Yeah for real. I started a separate thread trying to find answers and apparently it’s just an empty warning. I tried it this morning and it worked fine, same cables, same everything. I just turned everything up a little louder and it was working.

But I just hooked up all the speakers and now I’m just playing everything at low volumes for a bit to warm them up. But having music out of the speakers has been a long time coming lol. 


Edit:
Been sitting in the car for a couple hours now. Did a basic ta with a tape measure then did some super basic level matching via ear and it’s already so much better than my poor stock speaker could make. There’s already decent center stage, I haven’t heard a singer sit on my dash in years!


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## WhereAmEye?

I had a terrible eureka moment a while ago. When sitting in the car I placed my hand on the hood-latch hole and realized I made my driver side kick panel a vented enclosure. I’ll need to add that to list of repairs. 











Edit:
Actually the whole thing is basically bad. The tops of the panels aren’t sealed well against anything, but at least they point up into the dash instead of forward (like the hole).
I’m trying to justify venting them outside like KHA did but that’s a lot of work and the initial cut will be scary. And the kick panels would be scrap which sucks for real. 

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## 1FinalInstall

Don't be so hard on yourself. That's just a whoopsie. They're so beautiful, chalk it up as a mulligan.


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## WhereAmEye?

1FinalInstall said:


> Don't be so hard on yourself. That's just a whoopsie. They're so beautiful, chalk it up as a mulligan.




I’ve got mad respect for you so that made my day. Thanks!



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## WhereAmEye?

I got used to the factory system and I’m missing it. Not the sound, I’m referring to the steering wheel controls, the pretty screen, being able to skip a track without picking up my phone, etc.

Most important to me is seeing the track info and skipping. So I’m going to take the factory front signal and feed it into the helix for daily listening. I’m sure the output of the factory radio sucks but I doubt I’ll notice going 70mph on interstate to work every day. Plus I’ll still have the usb input for when I want to sit in the car and just listen to music.

Tomorrow morning I’ll work on the director mount. I’m going to mould a fiberglass housing to secure to the factory panel; I’ll be placing it above my left knee as seen here:











I’ve let the speakers play for a week now, I’m going to mess around with tuning when it stops raining and try to get a decent setup going. I tried to really utilize that rule “install for the best, tune the rest” so I wanted to hear the system without any eq, just simple time alignment and some level matching. 

The midbass speakers are really boomy at the moment; i know it’s the enclosure though, they have serious potential. I’m thinking I need to separate the front and back waves more, secure the kick panels with more than 2 plastic clips, and open up the back of the kicks more.

Maybe after I hit 20k miles I’ll cut a hole directly in the floor panel to the outside, silicone some vents, fiberglass some rings directly to the floor, fill the area with clay, cld and deflex pads, cut the carpet around the speakers and remake the kick panels to be a simple acoustically-transparent cover.

...maybe 


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## WhereAmEye?

So I finally put some effort into the director mount. I didn’t want it sticking out much so I cut the dash to accommodate. The pictures should tell the whole story. 











































































I thought I was going overkill on a controller mount..then I remembered how much the stupid thing cost.




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## dcfis

Impressive work man! What are those woofers?


----------



## WhereAmEye?

dcfis said:


> Impressive work man! What are those woofers?




Thanks! The mids are Stevens from the SA6CS set, the subs are DIYMA R12’s. I think I traded a 10w7 for them a couple years ago but just now built a box for them.


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## dcfis

They look great, what company made them, it must have been before my time


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Pretty sure I was about 13 years old when they were made haha (no sarcasm). They still sound great but here’s a link I found. 

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...yma-12-sub-clearance-until-supplies-last.html


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## dcfis

Mine are a decade or more older ?


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Monthly update:

I finished my first filler layer/sanding session for the mount. It’s taking shape pretty well, I’ll have to get some of the edges straightened up though before I wrap it. I know it looks huge but it doesn’t seem bulky from my perspective; plus it didn’t take any knee room so it can stay. 

Also it’ll look much better when it’s wrapped in black vinyl, the tan makes it look way more gaudy than it really is. 















































Should be done with the mount within the next few months 


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## makunetsumaru

Nice, subbed.


----------



## ErinH

Now that you've had this for a while, what are your thoughts on the car itself? Still happy with it? Anything you don't like? I'm asking because I'm getting close to retiring my 2006 civic and looking around at all sorts of options. Though, I didn't really care for the exterior at first, it's growing on me so it's on the list. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

WhereAmEye? said:


> So I finally put some effort into the director mount. I didn’t want it sticking out much so I cut the dash to accommodate. The pictures should tell the whole story.


Where did you relocate your stock buttons that where previously there?

Do it ErinH.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ErinH said:


> Now that you've had this for a while, what are your thoughts on the car itself? Still happy with it? Anything you don't like? I'm asking because I'm getting close to retiring my 2006 civic and looking around at all sorts of options. Though, I didn't really care for the exterior at first, it's growing on me so it's on the list. Thanks in advance.




There’s nothing I personally dislike about it. It’s beautiful (in my humble opinion lol), it’s averaging 33.8 mpg (80% interstate miles), it hasn’t given me any mechanical or electrical problems. I’m 6’2” so the driver seat is all the way back; I have plenty of leg room but the rear passengers have next-to-no leg room. If you are tall and have rear passengers often then that might be a turn off.

One note is that the clear-coat on the hood is starting to crack; fortunately I got Hendrick’s car care warranty so they’re repainting the hood next week free of charge. Still sucks that it’s cracking within 2 years though, I don’t understand how Honda can’t learn how to get a long-lasting paint job consistently. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Bnlcmbcar said:


> Where did you relocate your stock buttons that where previously there?
> 
> Do it ErinH.




The only button that I moved was the traction control button and it’s currently squished in between two metal brackets behind the panel. I’ve never used it before and don’t see ever needing it again, and if I do have to use it the panel is easy to remove. 


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## ErinH

WhereAmEye? said:


> There’s nothing I personally dislike about it. It’s beautiful (in my humble opinion lol), it’s averaging 33.8 mpg (80% interstate miles), it hasn’t given me any mechanical or electrical problems. I’m 6’2” so the driver seat is all the way back; I have plenty of leg room but the rear passengers have next-to-no leg room. If you are tall and have rear passengers often then that might be a turn off.
> 
> One note is that the clear-coat on the hood is starting to crack; fortunately I got Hendrick’s car care warranty so they’re repainting the hood next week free of charge. Still sucks that it’s cracking within 2 years though, I don’t understand how Honda can’t learn how to get a long-lasting paint job consistently.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ErinH said:


> Thanks for the feedback.




No problem, any time. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Here’s an update for the sound system. 

1) I’m going to move the mids into the front doors when I deaden the doors. I feel like good door installs sound better than bad kicks in my experience so far. If I ever get the balls to properly do kicks (i.e. vented outside and bolted down with more than 2 plastic clips) then I’ll try that region again.

2) I’m going to rewrap the pillars in dark charcoal grill cloth because the vinyl is stretching away from the tweeters leaving some bare spots.

3) I altogether hate the way the trunk ended up. I sold the amps and I’m going to get rid of the sub box and start over from scratch. I’d like to end up with an audiofrog gb12 in a side fiberglass enclosure eventually.


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## Curt D

WhereAmEye? said:


> Here’s an update for the sound system.
> 
> 1) I’m going to move the mids into the front doors when I deaden the doors. I feel like good door installs sound better than bad kicks in my experience so far. If I ever get the balls to properly do kicks (i.e. vented outside and bolted down with more than 2 plastic clips) then I’ll try that region again.
> 
> 2) I’m going to rewrap the pillars in dark charcoal grill cloth because the vinyl is stretching away from the tweeters leaving some bare spots.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you use DAP Landau adhesive on pillars? That the only stuff to use.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Curt D said:


> Did you use DAP Landau adhesive on pillars? That the only stuff to use.




I don’t think it was Landau I think it was the standard weldwood. I have a buddy that did the wrapping and he has a giant can of the standard stuff that’s the only reason I didn’t use the HHR stuff.


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## Curt D

WhereAmEye? said:


> I don’t think it was Landau I think it was the standard weldwood. I have a buddy that did the wrapping and he has a giant can of the standard stuff that’s the only reason I didn’t use the HHR stuff.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's why it came off. You won't have an issue with the high heat Landau stuff.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Curt D said:


> That's why it came off. You won't have an issue with the high heat Landau stuff.



I knew I’d regret it because I saw Captain Steve post somewhere about only using the high heat kind. But lesson learned I won’t make the mistake again.



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## ErinH

Nevermind. Found what I was looking for. Don't wanna clutter up your thread. Keep up the good work!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ErinH said:


> Nevermind. Found what I was looking for. Don't wanna clutter up your thread. Keep up the good work!




No worries, I appreciate the discussion.

But to answer your question anyway I decided that I’d be disappointed regardless of how I stole the stock signal so that’s why I wanted the helix usb input. I’d just run high levels into the helix for my work commute and run the usb module for chilling with high res music.

When I bought the car I had to get that radio in order to get leather seats so it was a price I had to pay. Plus the right-side-mirror camera is a feature that I use every single day.


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## ErinH

Yea, it stinks that the only way to get a moonroof is to get the EX or above. And none of those permit an easy switch of the radio. Personally, I'm leaning in toward the sport hatchback but if I could just add a moonroof (from the factory; not myself ) I'd be happy. I don't want to step all the way up to the Sport Touring to get the moonroof mainly because of the additional cost but also because I'd have to maneuver around the OEM stereo's crappy un-defeatable DSP. So, the standard Sport is getting more of my attention and the plus is I can just pull the OEM radio and throw an aftermarket in there. 

Though, I did find this thread, which indicates if you have a NON-Premium system you can set the stock outputs to flat. Though, that looks to be something you have to do each time you turn the radio on and no one has found a way to get the "flat" settings to stick. Edit: Looks like a script was made to set it to flat automatically; page 7.

https://www.civicx.com/threads/dsp-flat.3019/
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582


Not sure if that will be of any use to you or not. I can't keep up with the various stereo options for each of the Civics, but I think your EX is a non-premium system. My understanding is the Touring version is the one with the Premium audio system.



Additionally, there is a spdif connection on some of these models but the focus of discussion seems to be on the Touring edition (premium audio system) and that you can't really do anything with this optical signal because all the radio functions are controlled downstream of it; so if you tap in to the optical you no longer have steering wheel volume controls, etc.


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

ErinH said:


> Yea, it stinks that the only way to get a moonroof is to get the EX or above. And none of those permit an easy switch of the radio. Personally, I'm leaning in toward the sport hatchback but if I could just add a moonroof (from the factory; not myself ) I'd be happy. I don't want to step all the way up to the Sport Touring to get the moonroof mainly because of the additional cost but also because I'd have to maneuver around the OEM stereo's crappy un-defeatable DSP. So, the standard Sport is getting more of my attention and the plus is I can just pull the OEM radio and throw an aftermarket in there.
> 
> Though, I did find this thread, which indicates if you have a NON-Premium system you can set the stock outputs to flat. Though, that looks to be something you have to do each time you turn the radio on and no one has found a way to get the "flat" settings to stick. Edit: Looks like a script was made to set it to flat automatically; page 7.
> 
> https://www.civicx.com/threads/dsp-flat.3019/
> https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582
> 
> 
> Not sure if that will be of any use to you or not. I can't keep up with the various stereo options for each of the Civics, but I think your EX is a non-premium system. My understanding is the Touring version is the one with the Premium audio system.
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally, there is a spdif connection on some of these models but the focus of discussion seems to be on the Touring edition (premium audio system) and that you can't really do anything with this optical signal because all the radio functions are controlled downstream of it; so if you tap in to the optical you no longer have steering wheel volume controls, etc.


This is correct. I have the Touring model. None of the DSP flat options work like the other model. And the SPIDF connector is not your typical consumer optical or coaxial connector.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ErinH said:


> Yea, it stinks that the only way to get a moonroof is to get the EX or above. And none of those permit an easy switch of the radio. Personally, I'm leaning in toward the sport hatchback but if I could just add a moonroof (from the factory; not myself ) I'd be happy. I don't want to step all the way up to the Sport Touring to get the moonroof mainly because of the additional cost but also because I'd have to maneuver around the OEM stereo's crappy un-defeatable DSP. So, the standard Sport is getting more of my attention and the plus is I can just pull the OEM radio and throw an aftermarket in there.
> 
> 
> 
> Though, I did find this thread, which indicates if you have a NON-Premium system you can set the stock outputs to flat. Though, that looks to be something you have to do each time you turn the radio on and no one has found a way to get the "flat" settings to stick. Edit: Looks like a script was made to set it to flat automatically; page 7.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.civicx.com/threads/dsp-flat.3019/
> 
> https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if that will be of any use to you or not. I can't keep up with the various stereo options for each of the Civics, but I think your EX is a non-premium system. My understanding is the Touring version is the one with the Premium audio system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally, there is a spdif connection on some of these models but the focus of discussion seems to be on the Touring edition (premium audio system) and that you can't really do anything with this optical signal because all the radio functions are controlled downstream of it; so if you tap in to the optical you no longer have steering wheel volume controls, etc.




You are correct that I do not have the premium system. I haven’t confirmed if that specifically means I have the optical system or not. In one of my brainstorming sessions I had the idea to remove my radio and a/c controls, buy the a/c controls from the lx model, and use a basic aftermarket radio kit to put a head unit in place. I think I’m going to tear the radio out this weekend and see.

But if I’m stuck with the optical system I’ll have to wait for some company to make an adaptor like that MOST thing. 


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## ErinH

Bnlcmbcar said:


> This is correct. I have the Touring model. None of the DSP flat options work like the other model. And the SPIDF connector is not your typical consumer optical or coaxial connector.


Do you happen to have a build log?


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

ErinH said:


> Do you happen to have a build log?


Not posted yet. I’ve been going through and collecting as many pics I have of the whole process. I’ll probably start posting it up sometime this weekend.

My Touring has the DTS Neural system. The best I could do was pass through the signals post stock amp into Helix DSP and try to De EQ. 

But even then this is a ‘compromise’ source route I use for when I have guests in the car and want a multi seat friendly tune. Primary source route is through the USB HEC.

*Josby has a 10th gen civic build log on here and he also has some posts on CIVICX about his touring amp findings:
https://www.civicx.com/threads/audiophiles-touring-factory-eq-curve-doesnt-change-with-volume.6814/

Pic of proprietary SPIDF connector:


josby said:


> I was hoping it would, but unfortunately, this headunit outputs a SPDIF digital signal to the factory amp instead:


----------



## subiemax

After fighting with my GTI and now the SI, im happy to just use my phone as a source and pay Tidal. Lol
Im going to try and vent my kicks next week. I think I can safly cut into the side of the kick metal. Need to do some lookimg behind the wheel well first tho. Well see.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

subiemax said:


> After fighting with my GTI and now the SI, im happy to just use my phone as a source and pay Tidal. Lol
> 
> Im going to try and vent my kicks next week. I think I can safly cut into the side of the kick metal. Need to do some lookimg behind the wheel well first tho. Well see.



Cut the piece and then determine if you see carpet through the wheel lol. Cut first measure later.

But I think it’s the concept of cutting metal that scares me. I just bought every plastic panel I’ve destroyed for $75 shipped (both pillars, both kick panels, and the lower dash piece) which is ridiculously cheap but I can’t replace metal. But I can cover it up I guess. 


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## subiemax

Sawzall roulette!


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## subiemax

There is airspace available pretty easy. 
https://i.imgur.com/kHU1Oo8.jpg


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Are you going to cut the floor carpet?


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## subiemax

Already done. Look at my log. I'll be finishing it up in the next few days. More picks to come.


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## WhereAmEye?

Oh ok. I’ll check it out. But I don’t have the balls to cut the carpet, more power to you bro. 


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## subiemax

I bought carpet for $100 for my GTI when I got rid of it. Probably be cheaper for a civic in a couple years when I'm ready to sell.


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## WhereAmEye?

subiemax said:


> I bought carpet for $100 for my GTI when I got rid of it. Probably be cheaper for a civic in a couple years when I'm ready to sell.




Fair enough. Or find a buyer that knows what you did and why you did it lol


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## WhereAmEye?

Big update, I found some motivation!

The only thing I loved about the first install was the a pillars and they’re definitely staying. I’m going to rewrap them with dark grill cloth though. 

I’ve almost convinced myself to cut the carpet to make some legitimate kick panels, not quite yet though. 

Also, everything in the trunk is changing. I grabbed the Audison AV 5.1k + bit ten d + digital bit in from classifieds and they should be here next week. I know the bit ten isn’t as powerful as the helix but I’m going to give it a shot anyway because the combo is so sexy. I’m going to put the amp and the dsp behind the rear seats facing the back.

Also, I picked up the stereo Integrity rm-12 that was on classifieds. The poor seller dropped a fortune to ship it. I started the build with stereo Integrity and I got rid of them but I believe this sub is more my style, it’ll be going in a side fiberglass enclosure.






































So here is revision 2:
Stock radio
Audison bit ten d
Audison 5.1k
Stevens sa6s (75 watts to tweeters, 140 to mids)
Stereo Integrity RM-12 (1000 watts)


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## Redliner99

WhereAmEye? said:


> Big update, I found some motivation!
> 
> The only thing I loved about the first install was the a pillars and they’re definitely staying. I’m going to rewrap them with dark grill cloth though.
> 
> I’ve almost convinced myself to cut the carpet to make some legitimate kick panels, not quite yet though.
> 
> Also, everything in the trunk is changing. I grabbed the Audison AV 5.1k + bit ten d + digital bit in from classifieds and they should be here next week. I know the bit ten isn’t as powerful as the helix but I’m going to give it a shot anyway because the combo is so sexy. I’m going to put the amp and the dsp behind the rear seats facing the back.
> 
> Also, I picked up the stereo Integrity rm-12 that was on classifieds. The poor seller dropped a fortune to ship it. I started the build with stereo Integrity and I got rid of them but I believe this sub is more my style, it’ll be going in a side fiberglass enclosure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is revision 2:
> Stock radio
> Audison bit ten d
> Audison 5.1k
> Stevens sa6s (75 watts to tweeters, 140 to mids)
> Stereo Integrity RM-12 (1000 watts)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Get use to all sorts of weird electrical noises, alternator whine, turn on and off pop, randomly deleted tunes, no connection to your laptop all sorts of fun stuff with the bit ten. Hopefully that sub sounds sick 


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## WhereAmEye?

Redliner99 said:


> Get use to all sorts of weird electrical noises, alternator whine, turn on and off pop, randomly deleted tunes, no connection to your laptop all sorts of fun stuff with the bit ten. Hopefully that sub sounds sick
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Bradknob also warned me about the bit ten. The seller used it without issues but I’ll probably keep the helix just in case it sucks.

Edit: I removed the helix from classifieds so it’ll definitely be an option. I’m excited to try the all-digital connection between the audison amp and dsp though.

But yes I’m excited about the setup, especially that sub!


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## WhereAmEye?

I have a better idea. If the bit ten d sucks then I’ll get a minidsp 8x12DL to have the most OP dsp for a simple 2 way + sub. I had a 6x8 and really liked the GUI so I think I would like it. And all these reviews of the dsp and DL have got me excited (thanks a lot Erin and oabeieo  )

I ordered stuff from US Composites yesterday (resin, brushes, mixing cups, etc). Already have 10 yards of cloth and 3 yards of the braided kind of cloth. I plan on starting the sub enclosure and amp rack this weekend since I have an extra full day Monday off work. Fortunately the car is already wired so it would be easy to have the sub moving air if I really get work done, we’ll see. 

Oh and another thing, I partially removed the radio and saw a basic wiring harness so it should be easy to tap into them for my hi level inputs. I ran a set of rcas on the passenger side when I first wired the car so it’s all set for it. 


Edit: its 3 yards of biaxial cloth so it’ll help keep the box really strong.


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## chithead

Sooooo.... where'd them sekzy DIYMA R12s go?


----------



## WhereAmEye?

chithead said:


> Sooooo.... where'd them sekzy DIYMA R12s go?




Bend over and I’ll show ya.

Nah jk they’re in my basement. Come pick them up and I’ll trade them for a Benjamin 

Or $80 and a large pepperoni pizza 


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## WhereAmEye?

Ready for the weekend 











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## diy.phil

uh oh. Best wishes and have fun there!!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I actually got a head start last night and built the structure of the amp rack. I designed it to mount semi-permanent in the car so that I can properly terminate all the wires, and the amp mounting plate is replaceable for when I change amps or processors (which will indubatably happen). 

I have the whole idea in my head but you probably won’t understand until I finish this weekend 




























Here you see the angle brackets; they will have four threaded nutserts for the purpose of securing the mounting plate. And I also added 2 feet to the bottom for added support. 










The mounting plate is a very simple rectangle so that it’ll be easy to replicate in the future. The four aforementioned mounting holes will be at the four corners. But I’ll be making a beauty panel to cover up these edges so it won’t be just a square when it’s all finished. Plus I’ll have holes/slots for the wires to go into. 










So yeah this will be behind the rear seats and then I’ll mould the sub box around the beauty panel for a seamless connection.


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## Jscoyne2

I mean it looks good but what does the FR look like in those kicks?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## WhereAmEye?

Jscoyne2 said:


> I mean it looks good but what does the FR look like in those kicks?
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk



Not good which is why I tossed them. Live and learn.

I need to do a few things:
1. Use a few bolts to securely fasten them to the car so that I won’t lose so much energy from the kicks moving instead of the speakers.
2. Vent the kicks either into the car or outside to separate the front and the back wave. The hole from the hood release really screwed up the driver side kick.

IMO the old kicks would have worked with a bit of lovin’ but I’m too OCD and need to restart to provide the highest starting potential for these speakers that I can. 


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## miniSQ

WhereAmEye? said:


> Big update, I found some motivation!
> 
> The only thing I loved about the first install was the a pillars and they’re definitely staying. I’m going to rewrap them with dark grill cloth though.
> 
> I’ve almost convinced myself to cut the carpet to make some legitimate kick panels, not quite yet though.
> 
> Also, everything in the trunk is changing. I grabbed the Audison AV 5.1k + bit ten d + digital bit in from classifieds and they should be here next week. I know the bit ten isn’t as powerful as the helix but I’m going to give it a shot anyway because the combo is so sexy. I’m going to put the amp and the dsp behind the rear seats facing the back.
> 
> Also, I picked up the stereo Integrity rm-12 that was on classifieds. The poor seller dropped a fortune to ship it. I started the build with stereo Integrity and I got rid of them but I believe this sub is more my style, it’ll be going in a side fiberglass enclosure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is revision 2:
> Stock radio
> Audison bit ten d
> Audison 5.1k
> Stevens sa6s (75 watts to tweeters, 140 to mids)
> Stereo Integrity RM-12 (1000 watts)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't remind me about the cost of shipping

Can't wait to see how this build turns out!!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I got up early and have been going at it for 10 hours straight but feel like I haven’t done much. But I’m proud of what I DID get done so it wasn’t a wasted day at least. I need to finish one more panel before I can start on the sub box because I need that panel as part of the initial mould.

I started by cutting a slot in the structure for the wires to pass through.

















Then I made some more pieces for the structure to provide space for 3 panels: the amp mounting plate, a 1/2” piece on that, and another piece on top of that. I want to make the 1/2” piece a lit piece of acrylic but it’s just mdf for now. 


























I wanted a micro-industrial aesthetic so I have 4 stainless bolts visible holding the amp plate. And used 4 nutserts to secure them. 










































Then to get the shape I wanted for the 2nd plate I threw it in the cnc. It’s not secured yet which is why it’s off-center vertically.



























So yeah that’s about it for now. I’m headed to Lowe’s for another piece of mdf to finish the third and final panel and then Monday morning I can get started on the sub box. I’m booked all day tomorrow but I guess it’s impossible to get an entire weekend to myself lol. 


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## diy.phil

Looking great!! 
Not fair!! You have a CNC machine!!!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

diy.phil said:


> Looking great!!
> 
> Not fair!! You have a CNC machine!!!




Well not really. It’s at my work but I don’t use it for personal use often because wood/mdf is terrible for coolant and filters. I had to vacuum the inside of the machine before I left and that was a pain.

But if you need anything metal or plastic made I can probably make it.


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## WhereAmEye?

I managed to align and screw down the 2nd plate but I’m too tired to finish the 3rd plate tonight.




















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## WhereAmEye?

I almost finished the front (3rd) panel, I added a few braces to the structure, and got 3 layers of glass down before it got too late.


----------



## Notloudenuf

That is looking really good. Nice work!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Notloudenuf said:


> That is looking really good. Nice work!




Thanks man, sorry the pictures are out of order. 


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## WhereAmEye?

The mould worked well. I didn’t put any wax down so taking the tape off was a pain but I finally got it, grinded some of the rough spots and put a couple layers of plain black spray paint on the back. I’ll put another 3-5 layers of glass down, then shape it, cut the front layer, yada yada.














































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## Jscoyne2

Next time. Use as much wood as possible on any flat section you can. Its way easier and cheaper than 15 layers of FG.

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## WhereAmEye?

Jscoyne2 said:


> Next time. Use as much wood as possible on any flat section you can. Its way easier and cheaper than 15 layers of FG.
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk




I’m using a couple layers of biaxial cloth which is as strong as 3/4” mdf by itself, it’s ridiculous. 


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## WhereAmEye?

I laid a few more layers of glass and mocked up the amp rack. I won’t have any more work done until Saturday, the next couple days are booked.

























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## WhereAmEye?

Looks like the site is migrating so I’m giving a preparatory farewell to everyone. If you’re all still here when this is over I’ll continue the log  


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## Notloudenuf

WhereAmEye? said:


> Looks like the site is migrating so I’m giving a preparatory farewell to everyone. If you’re all still here when this is over I’ll continue the log
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


New Super Admin posted this yesterday I believe


> Hello all,
> 
> There were some schedule changes with the migration of the community and will be bumping back the migration date.
> 
> We have pushed the date back to TBD for now and will update you all once we have a firm date.


I think you're safe for now.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I just placed an order from parts express for some black carpet, carbon fiber vinyl, an optical cable and a Topping D10. I think that’s the last thing I need for the system but something else will probably pop up. 

Oh and I got the modified Blue Sea power distro block from Erin for all the low power stuff. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Me: “I need a gallon of that stuff”
Mr. Fleming: “Take this, there’s about a gallon left”











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## ajt976

WhereAmEye? said:


> Me: “I need a gallon of that stuff”
> Mr. Fleming: “Take this, there’s about a gallon left”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Score!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ajt976 said:


> Score!




Right? Not bad for $25.


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## WhereAmEye?

2 hours a day just isn’t enough time to get work done. I barely get started before I have to quit . I was able to make the rough shape of the front of the sub enclosure though, also received my two spdif cables from amazon. They are actually pretty good quality cables and connectors even with the amazon logo on them.

I’m going to add another raised piece on the front baffle that will add support but also add some aesthetic value to the enclosure. Eventually. 
































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## tonynca

I tested those Amazon RCA against some semi-premium cables and there was a noticeable difference in audio quality.

I think you should go for KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA which is probably double the price but it doesn't break the bank too much. You will for sure get better audio quality though. Just a suggestion.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

tonynca said:


> I tested those Amazon RCA against some semi-premium cables and there was a noticeable difference in audio quality.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you should go for KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA which is probably double the price but it doesn't break the bank too much. You will for sure get better audio quality though. Just a suggestion.




It’s just a shielded coaxial cable for digital information transfer, not an analog audio signal. So as long as the connections are good I’m fine.


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## WhereAmEye?

I added some nutserts to the backside of the front panel. This will allow me to secure bolts from the very back (from the vertical stands on the foundation), sandwich the middle plate, and secure the front plate with x4 bolts. 

I also used some bondo-glass as glue to secure the front plate to the enclosure then did a quick trim with the dremel.






































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## tonynca

WhereAmEye? said:


> It’s just a shielded coaxial cable for digital information transfer, not an analog audio signal. So as long as the connections are good I’m fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Didn't notice that it was coaxial cable 


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## WhereAmEye?

tonynca said:


> Didn't notice that it was coaxial cable
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I didn’t do a good job of mentioning the topping d10. I know the audison doesn’t have a digital coax input but certain other dsp’s do so I’m just preparing early in case I want to try coax instead of optical. 

And the topping will be here tomorrow from parts express. It’s a pretty nice DAC I’ll be using with my iPhone for when I want some hi res music.


















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## tonynca

How does that work? iPhone > av adapter > usb dac?


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## WhereAmEye?

tonynca said:


> How does that work? iPhone > av adapter > usb dac?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Well I have two options with it. Regardless I’ll be going iPhone to camera kit 3 to the usb input. Then I can use the internal DAC with the audio rca outputs, or I can send the digital signal to the audison and let its own internal dac do the processing. I have some Knukonceptz rcas with the digital cables so I’ll decide which works better when it’s installed. 


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## ajt976

Always nice to have options. I'd be interested to see which you think is better tho.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ajt976 said:


> Always nice to have options. I'd be interested to see which you think is better tho.




Yeah same here. I’m sure the dac inside the topping is better than the one inside the audison which lends to using the analog outs from the topping; however, on the other hand, if I send digital into the audison then I’d have a digital signal all the way to the amp (with the audison ac ad link). So the only DA conversion would take place right before the speaker outputs.

This is all just jargon since i probably won’t notice a real difference but it’s fun to speculate 


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## tonynca

You will definitely notice a difference. Because I did


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## aztec45

I tried to send you a pm about some speaker rings, but your pm is full.


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## WhereAmEye?

aztec45 said:


> I tried to send you a pm about some speaker rings, but your pm is full.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I deleted some messages you should be good now. Sorry about that. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Finally got some carpet on. The base structure and the front plate are ready to be installed 

I put filler on the opposite opening of the nutsert to flatten out the panel. 































Here it is smoothed out. I also added a fillet to the top corners and a big chamfer on the top edge. 





























I drilled the holes for my x4 front-plate-mounting bolts. It’ll take four 2” long 1/4-20 bolts, go through the structures and into the nutserts on the backside of the front panel. 

















Then started carpeting some stuff. 

































It’s too dark for good pictures inside the car but here’s a teaser. 











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## dgage

Looks really nice!


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## ajt976

I'm digging it, anxious to see how the enclosure looks with the rack!

What all is going on the Blue Sea's block? Seemed like a pretty trick setup.


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## ErinH

Looking good!


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## WhereAmEye?

Thanks guys I appreciate it!

The blue seas contraption is a modded distro block. 3 of the outputs are constant 12v and the other 3 are switched via a basic spdt relay.


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----------



## WhereAmEye?

I was able to drill holes for the wire grommets and put carbon fiber vinyl on the amp rack. This is all the work I’ll have done for a few days I have a busy weekend coming up.

Also the middle piece that is supposed to sandwich between the rack and the front panel is not in place yet. I want to get a large piece of acrylic to put a nice led outline around the amp rack but that’s low on my to-do list. 

































































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## diy.phil

That's looking real great!


----------



## dgage

Very nice.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I got a few pics this morning before work. Day time pictures! What a concept. 
































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## ajt976

Awesome dude, the CF looks great!

Totally jealous, I've not gotten any time in the garage to work on my truck lately, stuck working on a flooring and trim project...


----------



## tonynca

Nice.

Where did you get those hole grommets? I need some for my spare wheel amp rack.


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## WhereAmEye?

tonynca said:


> Nice.
> 
> Where did you get those hole grommets? I need some for my spare wheel amp rack.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I had to think about it for a while..I bought them off darvex like 5 years ago. Make sure you drill a small pilot hole (~1/4” bit) and use those spade bits in my picture to make them fit right and look good. 



ajt976 said:


> Awesome dude, the CF looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> Totally jealous, I've not gotten any time in the garage to work on my truck lately, stuck working on a flooring and trim project...



Lol my girlfriend is in BLET Monday-Thursday evening and all day Saturday; so after work I have all kinds of free time. Except the occasional late night at work or trail riding.



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## mumbles

tonynca said:


> Nice.
> 
> Where did you get those hole grommets? I need some for my spare wheel amp rack.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


@tonynca
These are the ones I've been using... good seller too.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Mount...=1568399820&sprefix=uxcell+gr,aps,166&sr=8-35


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## cmusic

You have built a really good looking amp rack and sub enclosure! Be proud of your work!

On question on the Topping D10 DAC, it is powered through the USB cable, does the iPhone power it or do you have another power source? 

I currently have an iPhone with the Vox app to play hi-res FLAC files and I also have a Fiio M11 DAP that can play many different file types. I mostly use the iPhone connected to my car's infotainment system through Apple Carplay for most listening and using the iPhone apps. I will use the Fiio directly into my DSP through a USB cable for critical SQ listening. 

I have a few DSD music tracks on my Fiio and currently have the Fiio converting them to PCM when outputted digitally through USB to my DSP, which does not handle native DSD. Adding the Topping D10, which can handle DSD, and running RCAs from the D10 to my DSP would allow me to listen to the DSD tracks without converting them to PCM. I could also change out the op-amps in the D10 to fine tune the sound signature of my system.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Thanks!

Let me preface this by saying I haven’t tested any of this yet so what I’m about to say is theoretical. 

I’m using the Apple usb 3 camera adaptor so I’ll provide 2-3 amps to the adaptor via lightning port/cig charger. The adaptor is connected via lightning to the iPhone and via usb to the topping. The topping is powered through the usb and only needs 1/2 amp so the power provided to the Apple adaptor should in turn provide plenty of power to the topping.

But I also have a full digital stream all the way to the amp which is a cool concept. iPhone to usb to topping to optical to bit ten d to ac/ad link to 5.1k then finally the conversion to analog happens. 

Also, the output is 2 volts rms via rca output so that’s a little low for today’s standards. But it should still do the job though.


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## WhereAmEye?

I cleaned up the rough lines, milled the cutout for the sub, and added another layer of fiberglass mated with the mdf. 






















































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----------



## WhereAmEye?

Did some work today. It was beautiful outside! I tapped into the front signal and ran some cables (speedwire, optical, spdif and controller cable). 



































































































The controller and dac are going under the ac controls so I drilled a 1” hole in the upper back of the cubby to run wires. I’ll make a simple facade to mount the units in place. 





























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## WhereAmEye?

An hour and a half for this picture smh. But I’m taking care of my OCD finally. 











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## ajt976

Mmmmm, barrier strips. I'm really considering using a few when I redo my rack. Seems like the perfect application to provide access to the OEM speaker wire (via 9 conductor) should I ever want to use any of it in the future without a bunch of unused terminated wires hanging around.

My OCD appreciates your labels, haha. Good work!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ajt976 said:


> Mmmmm, barrier strips. I'm really considering using a few when I redo my rack. Seems like the perfect application to provide access to the OEM speaker wire (via 9 conductor) should I ever want to use any of it in the future without a bunch of unused terminated wires hanging around.
> 
> My OCD appreciates your labels, haha. Good work!




I have a love/hate relationship with them lol. They take a lot of time and effort to use properly but when the work is finished it’s much easier to change equipment and it looks a lot better imo. But this is the first time I’ve used a label maker and clear heat shrink and I don’t think I’ll be able to go without them after this, it just works perfectly for this application. 

I also soldered an 8-pin connector to the 8 wires I’m using on the bit ten (as seen on diagram drawing) and found where I wanted to put the blue seas block. I’m not securing the wires until the sub box is finished just to make sure I can secure everything at once.




















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## WhereAmEye?

Also ran into a little problem with the ac ad link. The connector on the cat6 cable is giant and I didn’t account for it so I ordered a cable with a 90deg head from Monoprice and hopefully that’ll work.










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----------



## WhereAmEye?

Slowly but Shirley. 

I soldered the wires to the male connector that hooks up to the audison. Front signals from the speed wire, constant power and ground from the blue seas block, remote in from an ignition fuse up front, and remote out to the relay of the blue seas block. Also, this set of wires should work for any dsp I use in the future, I’ll just move the female connector to the new dsp whenever I change. 

















And I installed the wires for the amp rack. I don’t need the remote in because of the ac ad link. 


























Here’s how it looks for now. I hope to have the wiring finished by Thursday and then I can focus on the sub box and what I’m going to do with the mids. 











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## oabeieo

It’s comin together now.

Does that topping have any control over volume (maybe a remote )


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> It’s comin together now.
> 
> 
> 
> Does that topping have any control over volume (maybe a remote )




No it does not. I’ll be using the audison drc but I don’t know how you’d control the volume without a dsp controller. I’ve seen a guy use a raspberry pi and Volumio to allow bit perfect volume control via android but I don’t really care to deal with a raspberry or android tbh. 


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## ajt976

WhereAmEye? said:


>


Where did you score the "wire keeper" for the power/ground? Been looking for something similar, albeit for four conductors instead of two.

I remember someone posting a link for a guy who 3D printed stuff like that, but can't seem to find it now when I'm actually looking for them...


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ajt976 said:


> Where did you score the "wire keeper" for the power/ground? Been looking for something similar, albeit for four conductors instead of two.
> 
> 
> 
> I remember someone posting a link for a guy who 3D printed stuff like that, but can't seem to find it now when I'm actually looking for them...




Same as the grommets, bought them from darvex several years ago. I got all kinds of wiring stuff and just kept it in a case in my basement. 


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## ajt976

WhereAmEye? said:


> Same as the grommets, bought them from darvex several years ago. I got all kinds of wiring stuff and just kept it in a case in my basement.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Might have to hunt for some. I'm sure a few well placed zip ties will be fine, but...


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I basically just cleaned up today. I took a vacuum to the entire trunk and back seats because I had dirt, wire strips and little strands of wire everywhere.

I added a couple rivets to the floor for the sub box and then added a couple holes to the panel for those rivets and a small wire bundle. 



































































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## javcolin

Great job.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

javcolin said:


> Great job.




Thanks man. 

I’m almost finished with the wiring; just a few more labels to print.































I installed the old kicks/speakers for the sake of testing the dsp and amp and it all works! Now I can focus on the sub enclosure and knock that out then I’ll have a fully working system 

A few things left to do..remake the kicks or modify the ones I have, deaden all the doors like crazy, finish the floor in the trunk, make the mount for the drc and dac under the radio, etc. the list is much much smaller than it was a couple months ago 


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## WhereAmEye?

Got the sub enclosure looking like an enclosure today. I stretched a fleece blanket and soaked it in resin, then put several layers of glass inside the enclosure to seal the fleece to the rest of the box. Then trimmed the outside back down to the original curves. Also put some bondo-glass inside one of the edges that needed some thickness.

Later this week I’ll put a bondo-resin milkshake inside the enclosure, smooth out the entire outside of the enclosure (and add an extra beauty ring to the mdf), drill the mounting/wire holes, put a layer of Raamat deadener inside, carpet it, and maybe even install the sub 


















































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----------



## WhereAmEye?

Got a layer of bondo-glass on the curves and got that front baffle milled out.




























































































My plan is to put filler on the edges of the new baffle to give a smooth transition. Also, I’ll be making an aluminum SI logo that will go where it’s written in the last picture. 


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----------



## Babs

WhereAmEye? said:


> An hour and a half for this picture smh. But I’m taking care of my OCD finally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So this build is coming along splendidly.

Having seen enough "amp rack" builds where speaker wires from car pass through these terminal blocks as a convenience for speaker wires from the amps themselves. I had always been a purist and didn't want another connector in between speaker and amp, but the benefits here are very persuasive. Is there a favorite terminal block and spade/ring terminals to optimize a great connection you can share?


----------



## ajt976

Babs said:


> So this build is coming along splendidly.
> 
> Having seen enough "amp rack" builds where speaker wires from car pass through these terminal blocks as a convenience for speaker wires from the amps themselves. I had always been a purist and didn't want another connector in between speaker and amp, but the benefits here are very persuasive. Is there a favorite terminal block and spade/ring terminals to optimize a great connection you can share?


This is something I'm wondering as well. Honestly I was more interested in the "Euro Style" (?) blocks where you would insert bare wire or ferrules and screw down from the top, but I'd be interested to hear opinions on what others are using and why.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I’m just using terminals and connectors from Lowe’s hardware actually. And in regards to them potentially being a hindrance you have to look at how little resistance there is on the block. Solid metal less than 1/2” long has next to zero resistance so it’s not going to affect the current at all.

It’s practically no more resistance than adding a speaker terminal to the amp, instead of just soldering the wire directly to the amps channel. 

I have a euro style that I’ve used before but I just think they’re ugly. The method I used is my favorite aesthetically and practically so it’s what I did.


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## ajt976

Yea, they aren't the prettiest but it won't be seen in my case. I guess too I was thinking because the rest of my terminations are ferrules and I could keep them all the same, gotta keep that OCD in check!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I can’t find it now but Bing had an install using that style barrier strip and it worked great for him. It’s all about how you use them I guess, I just personally don’t like them.


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## bertholomey

Barrier strips can work well - the biggest reason for me is ease of checking clipping to set gains with an O-scope - didn’t want to have to pull the cables out of the amps. 











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## WhereAmEye?

I made good progress on the sub enclosure this evening. Poured a milkshake inside the top of it (it didn’t really need it but it helped me to put just one more layer for good measure), stood on it and didn’t hear any breaks or groans, and got a few layers of filler laid and sanded.






























































I used up the rest of a can of filler-spray to see what I’m working with. It’s pretty close to being ready for carpet; still a few spots that need loving. 
















































It looks giant now since it’s white. I don’t think it’ll look so big when it’s carpeted. 





















All that’s left is a bit of body work, drilling holes for mounting and speaker wires, deadening the inside and carpeting the outside 



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## WhereAmEye?

Oh forgot this pic. 











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## oabeieo

OH dang! 

I thought my shop was only ones to call it a milkshake lol 
(You guys with these fancy cameras and my sloooow internet, bug the high quality pics are worth the wait) 


Looks like your going to have some decent bass output...


----------



## WhereAmEye?

oabeieo said:


> OH dang!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought my shop was only ones to call it a milkshake lol
> 
> (You guys with these fancy cameras and my sloooow internet, bug the high quality pics are worth the wait)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like your going to have some decent bass output...




I heard Bing @ simplicityinsound call it that back when I was just a lurker here so I’ve just always called it that. And I used bondo brand since it sucks so it’s good at being unseen lol. 

It’s my iPhone 8 Plus camera, which is actually pretty good.

Yeah probably too much for my Stevens mids to match up with up it’ll be a fun sub. Eventually I’ll upgrade to a 3 way with Stevens 8” and MAYBE a Stevens 3” midrange if he ever comes out with one lol. 


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## oabeieo

WhereAmEye? said:


> I heard Bing @ simplicityinsound call it that back when I was just a lurker here so I’ve just always called it that. And I used bondo brand since it sucks so it’s good at being unseen lol.
> 
> It’s my iPhone 8 Plus camera, which is actually pretty good.
> 
> Yeah probably too much for my Stevens mids to match up with up it’ll be a fun sub. Eventually I’ll upgrade to a 3 way with Stevens 8” and MAYBE a Stevens 3” midrange if he ever comes out with one lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Oh **** I’m still rockin my ilhone6+ 


I’ve heard a few ppl say something about the 3” .....even tho a 3” would fit in more stuff a 4” would be boss. But yeah a 3” is way more practical for selling and installing 

I can think of a ton of cars tat a 3” would fit in factory 1”-2”-3” locations where a 4” wouldn’t go .


You have the same floor I have in my shop also, good ole checkers 
(Just need the pillars and stairway and we would be illuminated)


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Got a few goodies today. An Audiofrog mic and an Audison Due for future purposes 






































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## WhereAmEye?

Finished up the sub enclosure today! 

I cleaned up the weird edges I had with some body work, put a layer of RAAM BXT II on the inside, drilled the holes for the mounting bolts, siliconed some speaker wire in place, carpeted it, installed it and test bumped it. Still waiting on the calibration file for the audiofrog mic but everything is finally running 

























































































These should hold pretty well. 































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## dgage

Looks great!!!!


----------



## GreatLaBroski

Looking good!


----------



## miniSQ

You did an amazing job on that box, and i can't wait to see how you like the sound. But you should be able to get a screw to sit below the first layer of the surround and be hidden. I'm not sure i would have chosen the screw you did, i used one from madisound. I used a #8 version of this one.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...6-0.75-phillips-pan-head-black-ox-wax-finish/


----------



## mumbles

Dude, that is a frickin awesome job, well done!


----------



## Blu

Nicely done!

Apologies if I missed it in a previous post, but what was the final net volume for the enclosure?


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Mini, I’m 100% confident in the screws I used. They were the biggest that would fit, they are angled heads (which I habitually use with Stereo Integrity now), I predrilled the holes the proper size, and the rubber gasket is serving as a washer basically but they are actually very tight. It’s not going anywhere. I wanted to use threaded nutserts but there wasn’t enough room for them. 

Blu, I didn’t actually get a good measurement with water or peanuts yet. I know the interior behind the sub is about 15x13x8 plus the added section against the amp rack is another .1-.2 cuft so I estimated 1cuft total. I used what space I could and got within the recommended range so I didn’t bother with specifics.


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## WhereAmEye?

I made a 2-piece floor that’s only there for durability and to cover the spare. Nothing fancy, but since this is finished I am FINISHED WITH THE TRUNK! I feel like I’ve been working on it for years..















































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## GreatLaBroski

Very clean, it looks great!


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## tonynca

So.cleannnnnnn


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## WhereAmEye?

I was also able to get the drc mounted. I still need to make a beauty panel for it and finish putting the dash back together but it’s pretty close.

So now under the hood is complete, the trunk is complete, the dash is almost complete, the speakers are complete. Next I’m going to take off all four door panels and deaden them with Raammat/ensolite and that should be about it for now. One day I want to upgrade my dsp but I’m going to enjoy what I have for a while first. 
























































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## ajt976

Looks awesome! I'm sure it's nice to feel like you are close to the finish line. Any initial impressions of the sub/enclosure?


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## DavidRam

That sub enclosure turned out beautiful and the carpet matches the car perfectly!

Do the screws not fit through the holes in the rubber?


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## WhereAmEye?

DavidRam said:


> That sub enclosure turned out beautiful and the carpet matches the car perfectly!
> 
> 
> 
> Do the screws not fit through the holes in the rubber?



The screws are too big to fit through. I did it on purpose because I like the heavy hardware aesthetic and feel like it matches the bolts on the amp rack better. 



ajt976 said:


> Looks awesome! I'm sure it's nice to feel like you are close to the finish line. Any initial impressions of the sub/enclosure?



Not yet. It’s playing but I haven’t tuned anything so I don’t want to say anything yet. But I’ll be tuning it one day this week and I’ll give my impressions then. 





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## WhereAmEye?

My sub didn’t sound right so I took it out to see if it was wired wrong. It was fine but dummy me left the wires laying out so when I cranked the car it shorted and now the bit in doesn’t work. I’m going to take a break from this hobby for a while and rock the stock rear speakers until I cool down 


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## ajt976

Oh no! Surely there is a fuse in line somewhere that took the hit. 

Don't give in just yet, you're so close! I find a good beverage does wonders, my suggestion is an Oktoberfest brew, the Firestone Walker offering this year is killer if you can find it!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

ajt976 said:


> Oh no! Surely there is a fuse in line somewhere that took the hit.
> 
> Don't give in just yet, you're so close! I find a good beverage does wonders, my suggestion is an Oktoberfest brew, the Firestone Walker offering this year is killer if you can find it!



I’m just glad I have a green light on the amp.

There might be a fuse inside the bit in? I don’t know. I’ll take it out this weekend and see if something is burnt out on the board. I’m going to trade the digital input for the rca inputs and use a Dayton dsp for now. I got one of the refurbs for $70 and it’s miles better than the bit ten. But don’t tell the classifieds ad that 



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## javcolin

WhereAmEye? said:


> ajt976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh no! Surely there is a fuse in line somewhere that took the hit.
> 
> Don't give in just yet, you're so close! I find a good beverage does wonders, my suggestion is an Oktoberfest brew, the Firestone Walker offering this year is killer if you can find it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’m just glad I have a green light on the amp.
> 
> There might be a fuse inside the bit in? I don’t know. I’ll take it out this weekend and see if something is burnt out on the board. I’m going to trade the digital input for the rca inputs and use a Dayton dsp for now. I got one of the refurbs for $70 and it’s miles better than the bit ten. But don’t tell the classifieds ad that <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Good you were able to get the open box units they run out fast.
Hopefully no one on the classifieds finds your post regarding the bit ten, lol


----------



## WhereAmEye?

javcolin said:


> Good you were able to get the open box units they run out fast.
> Hopefully no one on the classifieds finds your post regarding the bit ten, lol




Yeah but it has the audison logo so $100 is just giving it away basically. It’s good in its own right; even though it’s 9 year old technology.

But I’m excited about the Dayton. I’m going to keep the stock speakers installed for my factory dings and sounds and use the aptx Bluetooth on the Dayton from my phone as the main source. I think my factory radio had a severe hi pass filter on it which is why the sub sounded so low.

Future plans will be to get a Joying android head unit that has coaxial spdif output straight into a minidsp 8x12DL. But that’s $1200 away that I can’t blow right now. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Here’s the Joying head unit I was referring to. Joying has gotten much better recently, it has a fast response time and integrates my factory ac controls and steering wheel controls, but most importantly has that spdif coaxial output. I’ve done a lot of reading on forums about it and it’s apparently as good as it seems.

I’ll buy one within the next couple months and put up an official review. 




















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## schmiddr2

Looking forward to that. Hope it works.


----------



## javcolin

WhereAmEye? said:


> Here’s the Joying head unit I was referring to. Joying has gotten much better recently, it has a fast response time and integrates my factory ac controls and steering wheel controls, but most importantly has that spdif coaxial output. I’ve done a lot of reading on forums about it and it’s apparently as good as it seems.
> 
> I’ll buy one within the next couple months and put up an official review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That looks really nice. Is it a double din or motorized screen?

Like it a lot


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Yeah I’m super stoked for it. Steering wheel controls and ac controls on a beautiful screen with hi res music apps and a digital coax output? Seems too good to be true. 

It’s a single din box with basically a tablet face.










Here’s a link for it:


https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-l...-plug-and-play-for-honda-civic-2016-2017.html


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## schmiddr2

Just read some about it. 2 notes. 1-TPS shows it using valve caps, so it may not work with the OEM sensors. 2-has WIFI so it can connect to my dashcam, which is pretty cool.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

schmiddr2 said:


> Just read some about it. 2 notes. 1-TPS shows it using valve caps, so it may not work with the OEM sensors. 2-has WIFI so it can connect to my dashcam, which is pretty cool.




Actually that got me thinking maybe I could connect it to the Dayton dsp via Bluetooth. The Dayton doesn’t have coax input, and the low level output of the joying is like 0.5V so that’d be a noisy nightmare.


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## WhereAmEye?

I traded out the bit ten for the Dayton, and traded the digital input section of the amps for the analog input. I need some shorter/more flexible rcas.



















I’m not using any inputs into the Dayton except for the Bluetooth streaming device and currently have no sound. I still need to troubleshoot but I may have ruined the input section of the amp. I have a green light on both amp and processor and I can connect to the dsp via Bluetooth in my phone app. 

I’ll have to mess around with the multimeter and see if I can’t find a culprit somewhere. And try some rcas directly into the amp.




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## WhereAmEye?

WOOOOHOOOOOO I figured it out! It was a very long day at work worrying about sending my amp to audison for a $500 repair but turns out it was between the dsp and amp that had me messed up. I guess the knu rcas are bad or something.

To be fair the digital input board never came on again so I trashed it out of anger but the analog input board works. 

I removed the rcas completely and ran my phone straight into the amp and heard music so that’s when the biggest relief came. But then I used a pair of stinger rcas to send a full range signal from the dsp ch 1+2 into the amp and used the amp’s onboard crossovers and got music everywhere. It sounds bad but I don’t even care right now I’m just happy it all works.

I ordered some new rcas to connect the dsp to the amp, with smaller heads. 

Oh and btw I’m using the Bluetooth stick to stream music into the dsp right now.


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## WhereAmEye?

Cool note:

My phone is connected to my factory radio, the Dayton dsp, and my Apple Watch via Bluetooth.

I see the song info and can skip tracks via the radio but the music is streaming to the dsp. But if I press pause and then play via the radio it switches my phone streaming from the dsp to the radio.

I can’t control the volume with the steering wheel controls though, which is wishful thinking I guess.


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## diy.phil

oh yes, must be feeling great now that you have some music!!!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

diy.phil said:


> oh yes, must be feeling great now that you have some music!!!




So great! It sounds really bad right now lol but all the speakers are playing and everything works and I don’t have to tear it out and pay a repair bill so I’m ecstatic right now.

To do list:
1. Mount the Dayton controller/remove the bit ten controller
2. Use a whole package #1 of raammat on the doors
3. Add a 4 gauge quick-disconnect system under the hood for my new 55A power supply
4. Add the new rcas to the amp rack and tidy up the wiring from the changes. 
5. Tune it
6. Take a long break from working on the car and just enjoy the music for a while 


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## WhereAmEye?

Sara Bareilles had me excited this morning 











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## WhereAmEye?

Did some serious fab work today for the Dayton remote 




















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## WhereAmEye?

I received the new Joying radio today and was able to open it up. I didn’t have time to switch it out yet but it’s ridiculous how many connectors and cables are included..I’m pretty sure everything will still be functional after switching it out (both rear view cameras, probably not Bluetooth since it has its own mic, ac controls, steering wheel controls, etc). 

The screen is a nice glass, capacitive touch screen like most android tablets. The reviews say it’s super responsive so I hope they’re right. 







































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----------



## WhereAmEye?

I haven’t installed the radio yet since it’s so dang cold outside. It’s cold and dark and dreary when I get out of work. Maybe Saturday morning I can borrow a garage and get it switched out. 

But I found a good deal on a minidsp 8x12v2 on classifieds. It doesn’t have Dirac but that’s good for me since it saved me $400 to spend another day.

That means the joying radio will send all audio (car beeps and noises, Bluetooth, and Apple CarPlay music) to the minidsp via coaxial spdif 


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## WhereAmEye?

Well I at least have proof it’s installed. 











It’s pretty sweet so far. Took a bit to figure it out but I almost have it.

CarPlay is actually inside another app called “ZLINK” so it took a bit to find it. But it has wireless CarPlay if you’re into that stuff.
















The rear view camera still works but I lost my right view camera (which I have started using habitually when merging or turning so it sucks to lose it).


The ac controls are still a little messed up. I found the can bus control settings but I can’t find my specific car; I’ll email support and find out if there’s a closer match than a crv.


It’s really pretty overall. I’ll have to use it daily for a bit before putting up my review so that it’ll have all the pros and cons I can find.

I’m trying to convince myself not to sell the minidsp but I don’t need to spend $400 for Dirac. It’s on classifieds at the moment until I change my mind lol.


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## WhereAmEye?

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## schmiddr2

Nice update. There are just as many Civics being sold as CRV, so it should be supported as well. Did you try out the TPMS?

It does look good, hopefully it works out.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

All things considered, I hate this thing 

CarPlay doesn’t work via usb which is the main thing I wanted. It works via Bluetooth half the time, the other half I just see an Apple logo with no sound for the whole trip. 

The rear and right view cameras did connect but they’re slow, and the guidelines are WAYYY off so I could be smashing a car in real life and be nowhere near it on the guideline. The right view camera takes a few seconds to pop up so I’m already merged or turned by the time the stupid thing shows an image. 

It came with two 4G antennas and a SIM card port so if I had an extra SIM card with data I think that part could be cool for streaming music or the App Store or whatever. 

I’m also missing several important functions of the car that was centered in the radio I guess (the hud behind the steering wheel is missing half the options now like tpms, gps, and others)




All in all, totally not worth the coaxial spdif. I’m going to throw this in a bonfire and just use an external/separate source. After replacing the factory radio.




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## schmiddr2

Good to know. That helps me not fall in that trap.

Looking through the CES thread, it seems like big name brands are getting into the game. Maybe something more complete will show up this year.


----------



## Basshertz1

I’ve been lurking over your install and I dig it for sure, simple and to the point. I’ve installed for about 30 years now and everyone of those head units that come out promising to do this and this and that are all gimmicky pieces of sh#t and they never work correctly the way they claim. I can say once you install a name brand headunit with possible Idatalink connection or some sort of interface made to work with your car you will get the sound and interaction you’ve been waiting on this whole time, I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know sorry to drag it out man. I dig it can’t wait to see it done, no more than you do I’m sure


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## WhereAmEye?

Back from the dead!

Maybe I'm just OCD but I've taken a picture of my odometer at every 7777 landmark (7777, 17777, 27777, 37777, and most recently 47777). To celebrate hitting 50k miles I decided to revisit my car audio and get a nice system going again. I took a break from audio for about a year to clear my mind but the bug has bitten again.

Here's what I have on the way:
JL RD1000/1 and RD400/4
Audiofrog GB60 midbass and GB15 tweeters

Here's what I'm keeping from the old build:
All the wiring, amp rack, sub enclosure, and other misc. hardware
The Stereo Integrity RM-12
The Android head unit (I learned how to deal with some of the quirks and I get a digital coaxial output going into the processor)

Here's what i have for now:
Audiocontrol DM-810. Not what I want long-term but my buddy let me borrow it until I can afford a Minidsp 8x12 for DL. (Yeah, yeah, "why dirac for a 5-channel system?"...why not?)

Pictures to come soon


----------



## WhereAmEye?

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## Notloudenuf

Looking forward to your updates. That's a nice equipment list.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

My new stack is starting to take shape. Waiting for the 4 channel amp and tweeters. This weekend I plan on deadening the front doors and running wires into the doors. Still haven’t decided how far I want to go with the doors yet because I really want to show off the grills of the frogs with some totally customized door panels. 











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## WhereAmEye?

I decided to take the hard route..fully custom door panels. I’ll make some machined aluminum rings to secure to the door, then secure the Audiofrog ring to that ring; glass the Audiofrog ring to the door panel to make it one unit. 

Then the speaker and the custom aluminum ring will sandwich the door panel/ frog ring in place. So I’ll have a fully stable, secure mount to the door and not have any of the back of the panel stealing my audio waves. 

I started by drilling out all the plastic rivets and dis-assembling the panels 





























































This is gona be fun..


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## WhereAmEye?

Today I deadened the outer door and made the aluminum rings.

I put 3 sheets of raammat on each outer door skin. 



























The rings took all day to make but I love how they turned out. I utilized one factory screw to get my center and placement correct. 











































































So I’ll have one factory screw plus eleven 1/4-20 bolts/nuts holding the ring in place. Of course I’ll have raammat and ensolite acting as a gasket.

Here’s the part I didn’t explain well yesterday:

After the above ring is bolted and (very) secure, I will bolt the Audiofrog ring to it (see below)

























With this finished, I will glass the frog ring to the door panel. All of my body work will be on the door panel and frog ring. 

Then when that is wrapped, I will mount the door panel to the door which will place the frog ring exactly where I want it. So that when I secure the speaker, I will have a fully bolted assembly with the front of the speakers entirely visible (except for the frog grill). 


If I’m still not making sense you’ll just have to wait until I finish 


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## LBaudio

Ufffff, killer rings, looking great!


----------



## preston

What was the trick to getting the Joying working for you ? I'm really interested in this head unit for the SPDIF, carplay, and potentially streaming directly from a SIM card. One thing I don't need is integration into factory functions.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

preston said:


> What was the trick to getting the Joying working for you ? I'm really interested in this head unit for the SPDIF, carplay, and potentially streaming directly from a SIM card. One thing I don't need is integration into factory functions.


The main problem is just learning to deal with the little things: tire gauge sensor doesn't work, maintenance reminder is like 15k miles overdue because I have to reset it on the factory radio, there's a lag on the right-turn signal camera, etc.

It took a while to get the Carplay to work, too. Turns out the wired connection doesn't work well; I had to use Wireless carplay. That ended up working fine eventually.

I haven't tested the SPDIF yet but should be in the next few weeks.

Also, I tried to use the SIM card slot but it requires a large SIM and I didn't have one that size. I wanted to just add a line to my phone plan for $30/month and have full data access on the unit but my company doesn't have the correct SIM (Visible phone company). I also tried a SIM adapter but it didn't work; that might be user error. Honestly I didn't try too hard on this one since I've been fine with Carplay.

All things considered I think it was well worth it to just deal with the quirks just to have a nice big screen, google apps, android interface, wireless carplay, and SPDIF output. And the wiring harness they include with the unit is the best I've ever seen; essentially every possible connection to the factory radio had an adapter included.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the steering wheel controls still work. My radio doesn't have a sliding/rotary volume knob so I either have to use the steering wheel controls or slide down from the top (like on a phone) and slide the volume bar.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Managed to knock out some work tonight after work.

Started by removing all the factory plastic tabs and wrapping the wire in ensolite. 




















Put some sheet metal over the holes.









(Deadened on the backside with raammat, then places ensolite as a gasket)


































































Secured to the door with some self-tapping screws. I made sure that the window rolls up and down unobstructed before calling it quits so I think it should be fine. 

This weekend hopefully I can finish deadening the door and getting the ring mounted. Next on the list is bodyworking some a-pillars for the tweeters and the door panels for the mids. 


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## chithead

That is amazing!!! Solid aluminum baffles? Wholly schmoly!


----------



## WhereAmEye?

chithead said:


> That is amazing!!! Solid aluminum baffles? Wholly schmoly!


Heck yeah solid aluminum. I could never justify the time and effort to make them until I started getting some high end speakers. The Stevens got the kick panel pods but I didn't like having all my foot room taken, so when I got these GB60 I knew it was the right time. The aluminum baffles plus the aluminum Frog rings makes for a nice pair.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I was able to finish deadening the doors this evening. That included mounting the rings and test fitting the speakers. 




























































































I did the other side too but after 9pm I cared more about the work than taking pictures 



















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----------



## WhereAmEye?

Got the proof of concept today. Got the frog rings set in the panels and a layer of fiberglass holding it together. 



























































































































































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## Niebur3

Nice....did you rough up the plastic on the backside so the fiberglass sticks?


----------



## WhereAmEye?

Niebur3 said:


> Nice....did you rough up the plastic on the backside so the fiberglass sticks?


Yeah I did, one of the pictures shows it. I used the edge of my dremel wheel and melted a full layer of plastic all around.

When I get to bodyworking the front I’ll use a grind wheel to get some deep gouges in the plastic so the filler can mate to the plastic.


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----------



## WhereAmEye?

I realize this is a pretty rough concept but I was trying to visualize what I wanted the curves to accomplish on the panels. 











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## LBaudio

ABS and Fiberglass dont bond together. Best way to deal with this is to predrill a bounch of holes and apply fiberglass from both sides...kinda create a sandwich of fiberglass/abs/fiberglass.
Epoxy will be a bit better choice for this first step.

BTW nice work and I bet they will look very nice when finished


----------



## WhereAmEye?

LBaudio said:


> ABS and Fiberglass dont bond together. Best way to deal with this is to predrill a bounch of holes and apply fiberglass from both sides...kinda create a sandwich of fiberglass/abs/fiberglass.
> Epoxy will be a bit better choice for this first step.
> 
> BTW nice work and I bet they will look very nice when finished


I had the sandwich thing in mind because I’ll use the grinding wheel and dig into the fiberglass and the panel on the front side before laying glass filler on the front. 

But also this panel needs almost zero structural integrity. The clips hold the plastic and the (4) screws hold the ring so all this is doing is holding the two together until it’s installed. So worst case scenario the fiberglass pops off behind the vinyl but the speakers can’t move. 


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## ejeffrey

Those aluminum baffles are awesome! I'm really digging the idea for the trim rings, too. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this!


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## WhereAmEye?

ejeffrey said:


> Those aluminum baffles are awesome! I'm really digging the idea for the trim rings, too. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this!


Thanks, me too! Lol. 

TIL that my driver side ring moved on me at some point before fiberglass so it didn’t line up perfect when I test fit it in the car. So instead of letting that bug me forever I just took it apart and restarted. 

I was mad so I didn’t take any pictures, however I was able to re-place the ring and get a nice layer of fiberglass on the back of it. Tomorrow I can start on body working. 

But tonight I got some nice progress on the passenger side:



































































Gotta get some sandable primer tomorrow. My goal is to have the body work finished by tomorrow, then mount the speakers in place to get a test run before wrapping the panels. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Mid-day update. I’ve almost got the passenger side where I want it. Still debating covering it in material versus using textured paint.


















































The driver side is getting closer too. 











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## WhereAmEye?

Decided to get rid of the pocket and make a smooth transition on the panel. Instead of making a thin layer of glass I put the pocket back into place, glued it in place, and filled it with expanding foam. Tomorrow I will grind down the foam and start a layer of filler to get the curves started.



























































































I didn’t necessarily want to get rid of the pocket it just made more sense to get rid of it entirely. It’ll make wrapping it much easier and it will provide some extra stiffness to the panel too. 


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## WhereAmEye?

Also have an updated equipment list based on some recent purchases:

Joying head unit
Audiocontrol dm810
Zed Leviathan III (190rms each for the fronts)
Zed Minotaur III (1200rms for the sub)
Audiofrog gb60, gb40, and gb15
Stereo integrity RM-12

I still want to get Dirac but don’t have the budget for it right now with these extra changes. I can get some practice in with the audiocontrol and when I feel like it sounds good I’ll think about upgrading.


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## LBaudio

doorpods turned out great
!


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## WhereAmEye?

Got some work done last night but forgot to update the thread. Basically sanded down the foam, put a layer of glass down, then a layer of bondo glass.











































































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## WhereAmEye?

Current goals:


















My idea is to basically make the sail panel larger. I have a few inches of space before blocking the mirrors so it’s completely safe, I just have to get it to fit and aim correctly. I’m also “borrowing” the top portion of the door panel so the sail panel and that top portion will all be one complete unit.

They’ll be almost completely off axis and “enclosed” in the door panel (which is how Andy suggests using the gb40). 

Not sure about tweeter placement yet. Probably as far forward in my dash as possible. 

I remember reading some of Patrick bateman’s miscellaneous ramblings where he had some ideas about midbass right at you hips, midranges around your knee, and tweeters up in the dash. So you get 180deg between yourself and the midbass, width from the midranges, and depth from the tweeters. Not sure if this is accurate but I figured I’d try it myself and see how it sounds! Why not. Here’s a link to that:









Crazy Imaging in a Stock System


I've been driving around in a rental car today, and stumbled across a really interesting phenomenon. Basically I was listening to some tunes and noticed that the imaging in this rental car is incredibly precise. On some tracks the center was floating at eye level, and when there were a number...




www.diymobileaudio.com





Btw this is making me want to move the midbass to my rear doors. In my car and as far back as I sit, the rear door midbass is in the same vertical plane as my shoulders. This picture shows my shoulder and the top of the rear midbass...but I’ve got some much work in the midbass up front this probably won’t happen. 











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## DaveG

Nice! GB25's would fit soooo much better and you wouldn't really be giving up much! Just a thought...


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## WhereAmEye?

DaveG said:


> Nice! GB25's would fit soooo much better and you wouldn't really be giving up much! Just a thought...


Yeah you’re right but I’ve already had some gb25+10 so I wanted to try some bigger ones.

Edit: Actually I don't think I'm going to make my own rings for these. The provided rings are stiff and thin so that does two things: I can push the rings up against the window much closer than with a thick ring, and it allows ample breathing room around the basket of the little guys.

I'm super stoked to try this actually; it looks really cool in my head now it's just a matter of doing it...as per usual lol


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## WhereAmEye?

Something I haven’t utilized as much as I should: using my phone as a hotspot and connecting my radio to the internet and utilizing it as a tablet. Like with YouTube or getting apps for high res music. 



























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## WhereAmEye?

Got some work done on the doors. One is pretty close, the other is a little behind. There’s a few weird spots I need to smooth out but I think the general shape is there. 



































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## WhereAmEye?

Dry paint looks a little more even











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## WhereAmEye?

I met my goal to finish this section of the door panels today, stoked. I’ll hand them off to my buddy tomorrow to wrap in black vinyl so I hope to have them installed by next Friday. 











































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## Niebur3

Nice work!!!!


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## WhereAmEye?

Niebur3 said:


> Nice work!!!!


Thanks man, I appreciate it. Also, my stack is one step closer thanks to you and a couple other diyma guys..











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## WhereAmEye?

Sorry I haven’t had updates recently..time has been a precious commodity. 

But the Minotaur arrived today so I was able to get a couple pics of them side by side 



















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## WhereAmEye?

Come to find out the audiocontrol app is pretty cool. Even better is that it’s in landscape mode so I can do everything from the joying head unit (sans usb microphone). But having full access to the dsp without a laptop is cool.




















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## WhereAmEye?

Little off topic post here:

Worked all day yesterday on a baffle for a fellow member. 1” thick aluminum, outer edges are 14” tall and 28” wide, made for an IB setup for two Scanspeak 32W 13” subs.

This piece will sink into a double-layer mdf baffle and mount from the back.











































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## WhereAmEye?

I think I’ll actually be able to get some progress this weekend. I mocked up the amps today by mounting them from the back panel, it looks promising.



















































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## WhereAmEye?

Got my hotspot tethering to download the audiocontrol app on the radio. Looks promising.



























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## WhereAmEye?

Got a few things done today. Put the pots and LED’s for the zed and audiocontrol remotes put in my front console. And I started the process of reorganizing/updating my wiring. 



























































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## Theslaking

Sailing right along, Blue Sea.... I see.


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## WhereAmEye?

Theslaking said:


> Sailing right along, Blue Sea.... I see.


I believe I bought it from Erinh last year


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## WhereAmEye?

Guys. Guys. Gals. Behold:


































Shoutout to [mention]captainobvious [/mention]for the original idea. This is just a test run but I think I could get them installed tomorrow.


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## bertholomey

It was really amazing how the Brax amps looked when he put the lights inside - these look really great as well!


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## WhereAmEye?

bertholomey said:


> It was really amazing how the Brax amps looked when he put the lights inside - these look really great as well!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I love it! The amps are beautiful in and of themselves so I think it’s great just to show off their own beauty. 

Side note: I’ll connect the LED’s to the trunk light (after disconnecting the factory light) so that when I open the trunk they’ll come on.


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## WhereAmEye?

Spent my entire Saturday working on the amp rack and power distributions. Made a “second floor” for the dsp, put vinyl on the amp rack, and carpet other places. Ended up getting the dsp and the amps to turn on, need to test all the channels then I can put the trunk back together.











































































































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## OrangeTang19x

wow looking real good


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## WhereAmEye?

I'm having a heck of a time with the Audiocontrol piece. It didn't work at all the first night I tried. My laptop wouldn't connect and I was getting impatient.
I tried a different laptop the next day and was at least able to connect and update the firmware. I read the incoming signal with the built-in RTA so at least made progress.

But I have yet to connect my phone or my radio to the device with the bluetooth module. It will "connect" in my phone settings but the app shows nothing attached.
I'll try to connect the dsp to my laptop with the bluetooth module connected and make sure there's not a firmware issue with the module.

I'll keep chugging along until I figure it out. I don't like being defeated by electronics. BTW I emailed Audiocontrol a few days ago with no response.


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## Stycker

Just call Audiocontrol on the phone. They always answer and get you to a tech right away. I used to have a DM-608. I never had a problem with the unit but I did have some questions. I always got through on the first call.


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## WhereAmEye?

Stycker said:


> Just call Audiocontrol on the phone. They always answer and get you to a tech right away. I used to have a DM-608. I never had a problem with the unit but I did have some questions. I always got through on the first call.


I called yesterday at 2pm pacific time. It went straight to voicemail and I haven't heard back.

I'll try again today and see if they answer. Maybe they're still working from home and not responding or something.


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## ErinH

WhereAmEye? said:


> I believe I bought it from Erinh last year
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was thinking that it sure looked like mine. Couldn't remember who I sold it to.


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## WhereAmEye?

Scored a Minidsp 8x12DL from @oabeieo !! Super stoked for it.


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## WhereAmEye?

I’m going to ride around a few days with my midranges mocked up here as seen below. This is where I want them I just don’t know about aiming yet; they’ll be off axis I just don’t know how far. I’ll be crossing it at it’s beaming point since the tweeters can play pretty low so I don’t think it really matters.



















































































It looks massive but I think after body working and seeing it all finished it won’t be so bad. And it doesn’t block the rear view mirror so there’s nothing dangerous about it; it’s not blocking any visibility actually. 


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## Niebur3

^^^Looks good to me. Awesome build.


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## WhereAmEye?

I asked minidsp about a new controller for their car dsp’s and got this response:


Hi Alex,

Thanks for your interest in our products.
We hope to release it in the coming week of Nov. Thanks for your patience. 


So I might be getting the 8x12DL and buying the controller at the same time! Btw it’s supposed to be a nicer remote than their basic pot with 4 buttons. Not sure what features will be provided but it does have a screen included.


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## WhereAmEye?

Stycker said:


> Just call Audiocontrol on the phone. They always answer and get you to a tech right away. I used to have a DM-608. I never had a problem with the unit but I did have some questions. I always got through on the first call.


Well they called me back yesterday. I guess they had a vacation week last week.

He's going to call me and guide me through some troubleshooting methods later this week. I hope I can get it all to work.

I have the entire assembly for sale if anyone is interested: $350 Audiocontrol DM-810, Bluetooth module, acr-3


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## ILX Cheeta

WhereAmEye? said:


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What product is that black covering? Called MLV?great build.

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## WhereAmEye?

ILX Cheeta said:


> What product is that black covering? Called MLV?great build.
> 
> Thanks


It’s Ensolite from RAAM audio. I found out about RAAMmat way back on Tacomaworld before I even joined Diyma so I’ve used it ever since. I don’t even know if they’re in business anymore.


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## ILX Cheeta

WhereAmEye? said:


> It’s Ensolite from RAAM audio. I found out about RAAMmat way back on Tacomaworld before I even joined Diyma so I’ve used it ever since. I don’t even know if they’re in business anymore.
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Thanks for that info much appreciated


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## Curt D

WhereAmEye? said:


> It’s Ensolite from RAAM audio. I found out about RAAMmat way back on Tacomaworld before I even joined Diyma so I’ve used it ever since. I don’t even know if they’re in business anymore.
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Not in business anymore. Ensolite IUO is the product. Great for decoupling.


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