# Does your wiring look good. Post pics!



## dvcrogers

I am about to start an install on my F150 and I am looking for ideas. So if you have any pictures of your wiring, please post them up.
Im looking for wiring, connectors, fuse blocks, and cable ties/mounts.


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## MarkZ

My wiring looks like a ****ing nightmare. 

Cable ties are your friend. Techflex can make things look pretty. If you're really crafty, you can fabricate snakes.


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## circa40

My wiring looks like ass to others since I dont use techflex  It looks great to me though :laugh:


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## audiovibe

Mine is alright, could be better.


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## Austin

All my wiring is out of site except for three rcas on the amp rack. So i don't make them look pretty


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## dvcrogers

Thanks audiovibe. Most of my wiring will be hidden behind the rear seat but I would still like it to look decent. I have never had an install that I was proud about. 
This time will be different.

More pictures please.


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## mattyjman

the search key is your friend... 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...75-lets-see-your-car-audio-wire-installs.html


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## dvcrogers

Thanks for the link. But I only posted after a couple of searches turned up not much. Maybe the way I was searching was the problem.


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## eng92

Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors


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## Nick337

eng92 said:


> Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
> I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors


Thats beautiful


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## miniSQ

Check out the volvo C30 build thread...the wiring is pure sex.


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## dvcrogers

Eng92, thats the type of stuff that inspires people!.


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## crzystng

I did this a few years ago but it hasn't changed much since.










I got bored with the router


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## dvcrogers

crzystng, that looks great too.


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## crzystng

THX man, appreciate it.


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## chapdawg1971

Here's under the rear seat of my Nissan Titan. Most of the wires are tucked out of sight. I've done a 2" seat lift which gave me the room for the box as well as the room for the Kinetik cell. I have other pics, but not on this computer, of what the amps look like under the seat. Not too much to see, but it's fairly neat.


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## MarkZ

Jeepers. All these pics makes me want to actually go out and fix my wiring. 

Then I hear chad calling me a sellout in the back of my head.


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## TREETOP

Here's a pretty recent pic of inside my center console, this stuff is all normally hidden except the Matrix is accessible by pulling the cup holder out.










A pic of the other side, before I added plexi over the Matrix:










Older pic when I had a DQS instead of the Matrix, showing cup holder access:










My sub amp (25+ inches long) is located in the back, also tucked neatly behind a factory panel on a welded steel amp rack with its own 1/0 run (soon to be a double 2/0 run). No wiring pics of that yet as I'm in the process of redoing some stuff.
Stealth was one of the the goals with this install.


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## Austin

A little taste of my older amp rack. Very simple power runs are seen here. No processing or rcas on the board as they come in at the top. 










My current amp rack is another story, wires are all over the place.


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## leepersc

audiovibe said:


> Mine is alright, could be better.


I love it man! Looks beautiful from this angle!


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## AudioDave

How about no wires? And no... they are wired and work fine. Underneath is just as nice... we didnt take pics of the underside tho sorry to say.


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## dvcrogers

Looking good guys.


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## scooter99

eng92 said:


> Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
> I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors


THAT IS PURE SEX!!! Awesome! Do you not have a build thread on here. Didn't see one. You going to start one. I'd love to see how you did this and what all your components are etc. I'm planning one myself. What kind of vehicle is this in?


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## scooter99

crzystng said:


> I did this a few years ago but it hasn't changed much since.
> I got bored with the router


Is this 3/4" MDF? I like the thoughts of that. It certainly helps keep things clean. How did you attach wires in there cleanly?


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## scooter99

I know post number 3, but I have a question. I'm running a Bit One and with all the RCA's so close together it's almost impossible, for me at least, to drill perfect holes without going into the hole next to it, basically making one huge hole between the two. Looks terrible. How are you guys preventing this from happening?


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## eng92

scooter99 said:


> it's almost impossible, for me at least, to drill perfect holes without going into the hole next to it, basically making one huge hole between the two. Looks terrible. How are you guys preventing this from happening?


If you do not have a drill press and the correct size bits then staggering the holes will work.


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## scooter99

yea but it looks so much neater if you can get a nice straight hole for each wire or cable. But I'll figure it out. I'd like to use the plastic inserts for the holes. But I'll figure it all out. I may not need to worry about it soon.


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## ErinH

edit: that last post didn't make sense... let me try again...

build your RCA after you've ran the wire for it.


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## Matt6387

This is some amazing installs. I wish I had the space to do that center console. My next vehicle will be a truck


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## scooter99

bikinpunk said:


> edit: that last post didn't make sense... let me try again...
> 
> build your RCA after you've ran the wire for it.


I knew what you meant believe it or not, I speak fluent "bikin"! LOL :laugh:


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## alm001

Install in my jeep;









Current install in my DD;


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## alm001

I have a closeup of the jeep wiring too;









Promptly after this i turned the pants around so you couldn't see the MC logo.


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## wheelieking71

circa40 said:


> My wiring looks like ass to others since I dont use techflex  It looks great to me though :laugh:


techflex is way overrated! you wont find any in my ride either.


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## wheelieking71

eng92 said:


> Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
> I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors



OH DAMN!! theres a dream team.....


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## simplicityinsound

scooter99 said:


> I know post number 3, but I have a question. I'm running a Bit One and with all the RCA's so close together it's almost impossible, for me at least, to drill perfect holes without going into the hole next to it, basically making one huge hole between the two. Looks terrible. How are you guys preventing this from happening?


i usually:

1. intead of a three or four small holes, make two large ones in between (what you sorta accientically was doing), except neat of course, nad run cables that way, four cables through one hole rather than two.

2. stagger them by varying distances from the unit. meaning two holes close to the rca jacks, and then two further away, gaining you distance so the holes fit next to each other.


if you dont have a drill press, and basically using a hole saw or a hole bit that is prone ti slipping, use a uni-bit, drill a tiny hole in and then bore the unibit through, it is much easier to control to make sure you got a clean round hole without it tearing into the next when whey its in close prosimity. but in general making sure there is proper spacing is the key.


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## scooter99

Thanks bing! Great advice!


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## GSlider

eng92 said:


> Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
> I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors


Beautiful indeed! Alot of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on that board as well!


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## Aznattic

^^^ I could only dream of having the setup above. 

I could of done better. Last picture was before it was plugged in.


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## Silver & Black

What is connected onto the white board?


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## chapdawg1971

It looks like he uses it as some sort of interconnect/fuse panel. Nicely done.


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## dvcrogers

I love it. Keep'em coming.
Thanks to everyone who contributed.


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## mathematics

OH MY GOD 

A TRU TECH DREAMMMMM. NICE ALPINES!




eng92 said:


> Here is the board that I recently installed in my trunk.
> I am working on another board that covers this one with lexan windows in it so you only see the amps and processors


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## chad

Silver & Black said:


> What is connected onto the white board?


The other half of the pinball machine.


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## crzystng

scooter99 said:


> Is this 3/4" MDF? I like the thoughts of that. It certainly helps keep things clean. How did you attach wires in there cleanly?


Sorry I didn't see this earlier or else I would have gotten back to you sooner.

Yes it is 3/4" MDF, and keeping everything down is where I cheeped out lol, duck tape . My main concern was IF any power wires had to cross any signal wires they would do so @90*, but with something like that, never happened


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## mad89

Here is some of my work on a customers car i did late last year.

There is more posted over on my website, www.formAUDIO.com, with a few more to come, however ive been flat out lately and havent had time to write up the articles! 

The rest of the install can be seen here.

Comments/criticisms/feedback, welcomed and encouraged.

Cheers.


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## mathematics

very clean


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## MarkZ

Interesting grounding.

These frickin' color schemes that manufacturers are coming up with today drive me up a wall. What ever happened to red and black?


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## chad

MarkZ said:


> Interesting grounding.
> 
> These frickin' color schemes that manufacturers are coming up with today drive me up a wall. What ever happened to red and black?


Too standardized and easy to understand. Although I can't talk because mine is black and... ummm... black.


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## MarkZ

Tsk tsk. Is that the welding cable? About 10 yrs ago I used welding cable in mine and it was blue. My excuse was that I was broke. That cable lasted 3 cars...


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## scooter99

Very nice Mad89. What kind of car is that. Oh I guess there are links. Sorry. Looks good though! Did you make that, ummmmmm distro block I guess, under the hood for the grounds? I like that a lot.


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## mad89

MarkZ said:


> Tsk tsk. Is that the welding cable? About 10 yrs ago I used welding cable in mine and it was blue. My excuse was that I was broke. That cable lasted 3 cars...


Not sure if that was directed at me or not, but in any case, the wiring in my pics is Stinger HPM Series, 0ga and 4ga.



scooter99 said:


> Very nice Mad89. What kind of car is that. Oh I guess there are links. Sorry. Looks good though! Did you make that, ummmmmm distro block I guess, under the hood for the grounds? I like that a lot.


Thanks mate for the comments. The car is a Nissan Pulsar (bare in mind the different cars we have here in Australia).

Yep, sure did make that, we call them buss bars over here and commonly use them in engine bay earthing kits. See below for another example.



MarkZ said:


> Interesting grounding.
> 
> These frickin' color schemes that manufacturers are coming up with today drive me up a wall. What ever happened to red and black?


How about this one then?  hehe.


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## ryan s

Ok, it's been driving me crazy the last few days. What is the "proper" name for those little things you stick/screw down and that either have a loop to run the wire through or you use a zip tie to secure the wire to it? Can't think of it, can't find them on PE :mean:


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## danno14

This:

Cable Tie Screw Mount 10 Pcs. | Parts-Express.com


Or this:

Cable Tie Adhesive Mount 10 Pcs. | Parts-Express.com

dunno what they are called.....


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## scooter99

Yea you can pick them up at any hardware store too. Home depot lowes ace anywhere like that. Might even get lucky at wal mart, but who'd ever wanna get lucky there! Sorry bad joke!


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## ryan s

danno14 said:


> This:
> 
> Cable Tie Screw Mount 10 Pcs. | Parts-Express.com
> 
> 
> Or this:
> 
> Cable Tie Adhesive Mount 10 Pcs. | Parts-Express.com
> 
> dunno what they are called.....


Aha, those! Thanks 


scooter99 said:


> Yea you can pick them up at any hardware store too. Home depot lowes ace anywhere like that. Might even get lucky at wal mart, but who'd ever wanna get lucky there! Sorry bad joke!


I lol'd :laugh:


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## Aznattic

Those adhesive mounts never stick long especially if they are not under carpet. I always put a tab of hot glue underneath it and around it. 

Oh and yeah, they are the cheapest at Home Depot (9.99 for 100)


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## basher8621

CA glue helps them stick a bit better.


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## basher8621




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## MarkZ

Color coding and labels! You're my new best friend.


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## chad

Aznattic said:


> Those adhesive mounts never stick long especially if they are not under carpet. I always put a tab of hot glue underneath it and around it.
> 
> Oh and yeah, they are the cheapest at Home Depot (9.99 for 100)


They only stick to things you don't want them to. Like molded baseboard or paint for a temp fix. If you want it permanent they don't stick for ****. Murphy's Law.


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## ttocs388

the cable mounts are cool but there is such a thing as too many as well. I do not think they make it look any better when they are 4" apart and every cable has its own mount... If you are afraid of the cable moving around that much then just try to keep from rolling the car more then 2-3 times and you should be safe.


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## scooter99

Gotta love the sarcastic constructive criticism that comes from people on this site. It's awesome! 

I like the thought of the color coded techflex, but it is a little over kill. But I give props for taking the time to separate it out. The zip ties every 4" or whatever it is there, is a bit much, I think it's 6" minimum normally but of course I don't compete so I don't know the rules just what I've read on here. But it is nice to know that wires aren't going to move either. 

Good job man!


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## ryan s

I _almost _went with color-coded TechFlex...one color for every "pair" of speakers (like tweeter RCA and wire would be orange, mid RCA and speaker wire would be green, etc). It is complete overkill :laugh:

I asked about the cable tie down thingers since I'll need something to hold the wires to/around my sub baffle/amp rack since my install is "vertical"


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## basher8621

Yeah, the tech flex with mounts is a PITA but for install judging its worth it. The rules state they need to be secured every 6 inches so I did mine at about 5 inches some areas required 2-3 inches but that wasn't many. It took a good bit of time but worth it, I guess.


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## Commissionmip

scooter99 said:


> THAT IS PURE SEX!!! Awesome! Do you not have a build thread on here. Didn't see one. You going to start one. I'd love to see how you did this and what all your components are etc. I'm planning one myself. What kind of vehicle is this in?


NICE..


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## req

headunit harness









wire routing driver side only









speaker wire termination in the hatch









passenger side floor pan









driver side floor pan









sub baffle


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX

Here is the main fuse set-up I went with... Battery relocated in the back... 

Upper right, Alt input
Upper left, out to battery
Bridge down (fused @300A)
Lower right, out to starter
Lower left (fused 50A) out to car main fuse block

Works flawlessly


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## ttocs388

I am hoping to have my install complete by the summer. I am going with a complete pheonix gold system from the connectors to the amps/speakers. It has taken months to find all the RCA ends I needed, the super triple shielded cable and all the connectors they do no make any more. Because of this I am going to be displaying the wire on the floor behind my drivers/pass seat since I removed the back seat. Pics will be posted when its done.

I am using a mylar techflex that will act as another shield since it is conductive. Because of that I will be covering all my wires with it(signal and power) with everything labeled under clear heatshrink to make it easy to dianose what is wut.


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## AdamTaylor

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Here is the main fuse set-up I went with... Battery relocated in the back...
> 
> Upper right, Alt input
> Upper left, out to battery
> Bridge down (fused @300A)
> Lower right, out to starter
> Lower left (fused 50A) out to car main fuse block
> 
> Works flawlessly


 wish i had a fuse panel like that


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## 96jimmyslt

I try.

First install ever.

Nothing special but it works.

I just did the last couple pics today.

Constantly changing.

Neat = easier to manage and route other wires.


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## DaCid

I don't have any pictures of mine at the moment, but I wired up my 1990 F-150 in phases.. So instead of having one nice 2 Ga to the back and then splitting it, I have 3 8 Ga.. But I define sexy wiring as invisible wiring. All my wires are under trim pieces and carpet until they hit the amp.. Then one small slit and they're plugged in. Keep it clean.


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## 96jimmyslt

DaCid said:


> I don't have any pictures of mine at the moment, but I wired up my 1990 F-150 in phases.. So instead of having one nice 2 Ga to the back and then splitting it, I have 3 8 Ga.. But I define sexy wiring as invisible wiring. All my wires are under trim pieces and carpet until they hit the amp.. Then one small slit and they're plugged in. Keep it clean.


What do you mean exactly?

You spliced 3 sets of 8awg together?

And as far as hidden goes, agree 100%

It's basically the same principal with computers.

Wiring management only counts when you open it up and show it off.


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## DaCid

No.. This was my first system, and I built it in pieces as I learned and upgraded. So instead of one nice 4 or 2 Ga running to the cab and then splitting into 8 Ga, I have 3 different 8 Ga wires coming off my battery and running to each amp. The one upside to this is I have an amp under the driver seat and the passenger seat of the cab and a third amp on the back panel, so it allowed me to run the wires through different routes, but can make for a sloppy engine compartment.

When I move my system to my new car I will redo the wiring and take pics to show how I hid everything!


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## 96jimmyslt

DaCid said:


> No.. This was my first system, and I built it in pieces as I learned and upgraded. So instead of one nice 4 or 2 Ga running to the cab and then splitting into 8 Ga, I have 3 different 8 Ga wires coming off my battery and running to each amp. The one upside to this is I have an amp under the driver seat and the passenger seat of the cab and a third amp on the back panel, so it allowed me to run the wires through different routes, but can make for a sloppy engine compartment.
> 
> When I move my system to my new car I will redo the wiring and take pics to show how I hid everything!


Didn't you post that in another thread?


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## DaCid

I don't recall posting that.. Have you seen it?


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## 96jimmyslt

DaCid said:


> I don't recall posting that.. Have you seen it?


Yeah I just replied asking if you spliced the 3 8awg together...

Edit, LOL it was the 2 posts above.

you posted it, then I posted, then you posted again, slightly edited.


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## Fus1on

Very nice thread, it gave me a bunch of great ideas, Thanks!


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## 96jimmyslt

Fus1on said:


> Very nice thread, it gave me a bunch of great ideas, Thanks!


From what I gathered from this thread, everyone who posted pictures have been doing this for YEARS and finally realized it's best to do a factory-level wiring job with the seats and carpets out to begin with.

I could be wrong though?

I can't honestly say I approve of "audio processors" or other $400+ items, but wiring jobs such as those shown in the pictures is probably something that I can see myself getting into.


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## OldSkool_08

This is in my current ride, my 1998 GMC 4x4 Sierra

Beginning










Drivers side










Closeup of drivers side










The back










Amp rack is currently in the design and building process.

I will be lowering the noise floor some more with some CCF and MLV.


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## 96jimmyslt

OldSkool_08 said:


> This is in my current ride, my 1998 GMC 4x4 Sierra
> 
> Amp rack is currently in the design and building process.
> 
> I will be lowering the noise floor some more with some CCF and MLV.


1. what is the foil looking stuff?

2. Why are those black/red wires bare and what are they?

3. How hard was it to remove the carpet?


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## DaCid

The foil stuff is sound deadener.

The black/ red wires look like they are speaker wires.

And from my experiences of tearing up carpet, it's not too rough.

*That's my $.02


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## OldSkool_08

Second Skin Damplifier Pro

Rockford Fosgate 15 gauge gamma speaker wire. They are not bare they are insulated just like other speaker wire

Easy, just take the seats out and have an extra set of hands to help you remove it.

All speaker and RCA's come from the Rockford Fosgate braided twisted pair design from a few years ago or more.


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## 96jimmyslt

OldSkool_08 said:


> Second Skin Damplifier Pro
> 
> Rockford Fosgate 15 gauge gamma speaker wire. They are not bare they are insulated just like other speaker wire
> 
> Easy, just take the seats out and have an extra set of hands to help you remove it.
> 
> All speaker and RCA's come from the Rockford Fosgate braided twisted pair design from a few years ago or more.


They look pretty thin to me...


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## knifedag007

i hope my wiring looks as good as some of these...we will see


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## langlowe

Here is what I came up with. I could have done better but not bad for my first time in over 10 years.


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## mad89

Some of my latest work from down in Australia... 

Note the writing on the cable displayed and on show wherever possible, and all writing on the cable and cable ties face the same way.

You can see the full write up and pics of the install, here: http://www.formaudio.com//subaru-impreza-wrx-sti


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## scooter99

Wow that looks amazing! I especially like what you did with the negative/ground buss bar. Where is the second Red power going to? I see one fuse, but not a second. One to alternator and one to rear maybe?


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## 96jimmyslt

langlowe said:


> Here is what I came up with. I could have done better but not bad for my first time in over 10 years.


Only thing I would change is the way you wired the distribution block. I would make the wires not bend.

And for the RCA's, I would cut a hole lining up for each one, not bending them to one hole.

other than that, looks great.



mad89 said:


> Some of my latest work from down in Australia...
> 
> Note the writing on the cable displayed and on show wherever possible, and all writing on the cable and cable ties face the same way.
> 
> You can see the full write up and pics of the install, here: http://www.formaudio.com//subaru-impreza-wrx-sti



Very nice. Gives me some inspiration and ideas


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## knifedag007

very nice, i like the wiring in the engine bay


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## mad89

scooter99 said:


> Wow that looks amazing! I especially like what you did with the negative/ground buss bar. Where is the second Red power going to? I see one fuse, but not a second. One to alternator and one to rear maybe?


Thanks guys. The second red 0ga power cable runs to the factory wiring. The Subaru OEM wiring lends itself well to being upgraded and added to.

The other 0ga then runs into the boot and splits to 2x 4ga for the amps.

2x 0ga make their way to the buss bar, and then 5x 4ga from there to improve grounding. Needless to say, this car has no headlight dimming now. 



96jimmyslt said:


> Very nice. Gives me some inspiration and ideas





knifedag007 said:


> very nice, i like the wiring in the engine bay


Thanks again, theres a few of my other engine bay wiring jobs posted in this thread. And/or check them out on my website.


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## scooter99

I'm looking forward to seeing your other builds too. I'm very inspired by this! Nice work!


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## scooter99

I'm looking through your website now, and I really like how consistent your installs are with the "5point earth kit." My only two questions with that are, 1) how do you mount the two 0 ga wires? It doesn't look like there's a mounting point on the other side of the aluminum piece. Are you mounting them under the piece? 2) are the bolts for the connections threaded in or are there nuts under it holding them in? I like the idea. Great job.


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## knifedag007

i have this, basically just an over priced version of what he did with a led lol


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## scooter99

Yea I've seen those, as well as the Buddy Club one's which I really liked, but I wanna do mine custom. I've got all kinds of new Ideas going now! Muahahahahah!!

My only curiosity was, I though aluminum wasn't a very good conductor. As in maybe you/me should be using copper or something like that. I would love to get my hands on some stainless steel to do some brackets and polish them up. MMmmmmmm.


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## mad89

scooter99 said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing your other builds too. I'm very inspired by this! Nice work!





scooter99 said:


> I'm looking through your website now, and I really like how consistent your installs are with the "5point earth kit." My only two questions with that are, 1) how do you mount the two 0 ga wires? It doesn't look like there's a mounting point on the other side of the aluminum piece. Are you mounting them under the piece? 2) are the bolts for the connections threaded in or are there nuts under it holding them in? I like the idea. Great job.


Thanks very much for the kind words. Theres a handful of installers down here in Australia that utilise this method for drastically improving the cars earthing systems. Fhrx Studios is another top notch installer, whom i originally drew my inspiration from, back in the day! 

Granted, some cars require very little upgrading, as their OEM earth systems are adequate, but some of the older cars reap the (noticable!) benefits. That, and they look trick! 

As for your questions; Firstly, usually i mount the 0ga to the back of the bus bar into one of the existing holes. This also ensures at least two direct connections of 0ga to 4ga, rather than relying on the aluminium buss itself (which also addresses the conductivity of aluminium argument below). In some cases though, it can look much neater and practical to have the 0ga mounted beside the 4ga - in which case, another two holes are simply added.

I generally use lock nuts on the bottom, with the aid of spring washers, which should see them very rarely come loose. (Hopefully you use the same terminology and know what i'm talking about! lol).



knifedag007 said:


> i have this, basically just an over priced version of what he did with a led lol


Dont forget the Apexi sticker is good for +10hp at the wheels! :laugh:



scooter99 said:


> Yea I've seen those, as well as the Buddy Club one's which I really liked, but I wanna do mine custom. I've got all kinds of new Ideas going now! Muahahahahah!!
> 
> My only curiosity was, I though aluminum wasn't a very good conductor. As in maybe you/me should be using copper or something like that. I would love to get my hands on some stainless steel to do some brackets and polish them up. MMmmmmmm.


Without going too deep into comparing metal properties etc, yes there are alternative options available to customers that would be better than aluminium - however, aluminium's use in this instance largely comes down to ease of use/workability, availability and price, and compared to the better conductors, which makes it pretty much perfect for this application.

By all means, if a customer wants me to make their earth kit/buss bar from Silver, or Copper, or anything else, then i'm more than happy to do so!


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## scooter99

Great responses, thanks. I'll be working on my engine bay wiring very soon. I'll post up here when I get it done.


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## knifedag007

scooter99 said:


> Great responses, thanks. I'll be working on my engine bay wiring very soon. I'll post up here when I get it done.


Part of my build will include doing the Big 3 upgrade but since I have an SI I am waiting to do it till I change out my intake manifold since the positive wire on the Alt is all but impossible to get to with out removing the intake manifold so y do double the work on taking it out twice


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## scooter99

That's a good point right there friend! I don't have an Si so I don't have that problem, but I think that's a good idea. I'm going to be replacing the alternator soon, so I think at that point I'll do the front power stuff.


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## stanky_dlx

wow, this thread is inspiring.


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## joemk69

req said:


> headunit harness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wire routing driver side only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> speaker wire termination in the hatch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> passenger side floor pan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> driver side floor pan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sub baffle


How do those ID Max's sound mounted IB?


----------



## blueatlanta

mad89 said:


> Thanks very much for the kind words. Theres a handful of installers down here in Australia that utilise this method for drastically improving the cars earthing systems. Fhrx Studios is another top notch installer, whom i originally drew my inspiration from, back in the day!
> 
> Granted, some cars require very little upgrading, as their OEM earth systems are adequate, but some of the older cars reap the (noticable!) benefits. That, and they look trick!
> 
> As for your questions; Firstly, usually i mount the 0ga to the back of the bus bar into one of the existing holes. This also ensures at least two direct connections of 0ga to 4ga, rather than relying on the aluminium buss itself (which also addresses the conductivity of aluminium argument below). In some cases though, it can look much neater and practical to have the 0ga mounted beside the 4ga - in which case, another two holes are simply added.
> 
> I generally use lock nuts on the bottom, with the aid of spring washers, which should see them very rarely come loose. (Hopefully you use the same terminology and know what i'm talking about! lol).
> 
> 
> Dont forget the Apexi sticker is good for +10hp at the wheels! :laugh:
> 
> 
> Without going too deep into comparing metal properties etc, yes there are alternative options available to customers that would be better than aluminium - however, aluminium's use in this instance largely comes down to ease of use/workability, availability and price, and compared to the better conductors, which makes it pretty much perfect for this application.
> 
> By all means, if a customer wants me to make their earth kit/buss bar from Silver, or Copper, or anything else, then i'm more than happy to do so!


| Electrical conductivity | conductivity thermal |Comparisons of Materials: Coefficient of Thermal Expansion and conductivity of metal

where do you buy chromium?? lol


----------



## splaudiohz

My setup thus far:


----------



## splaudiohz




----------



## splaudiohz

Combining the HU and peripheral components into a single less messy harness:


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Nick337 said:


> Thats beautiful


Question, why the use of two processors?

How has the Tausami wire been working for you?


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Nick337 said:


> Thats beautiful


Question, why the use of two processors?

How has the Tausami wire been working for you?


----------



## Fus1on

Your pics show that you put a lot of effort into the install and you can do what you want but those need some work to not have any exposed metal. 



splaudiohz said:


> My setup thus far:


----------



## scooter99

Fus1on said:


> Your pics show that you put a lot of effort into the install and you can do what you want but those need some work to not have any exposed metal.


I agree. Those defeat the purpose of having them if you're going to cut them. They're supposed to protect the wire from the metal. When you cut them to fit the hole instead of getting some that fit the hole, you might as well not have them in there. Not meaning to sound harsh but you've put in so much effort, I'd hate to see you have a short or something bad cause you were a little lazy.


----------



## fuzzysig

i try to avoid using any kind of sticky /tape/glue/zip ties to hold my wiring together. 
just in case i modify or add/remove components later. 
some people only think about how it looks when installed but forget how much of a beech its gonna be to upgrade modify the system if you need to.
heres 2 of my full alarm remote start installs in integra and 350z if i remember correctly.

and no its not a ground wire for the alarm attached to the frame
theres also backup batteries, trunk pop, and every other option for the alarm+ wires for speakers and all kinds of other acessories hidden there.
and its not a bch to remove since they are all separated.


----------



## quickaudi07

Nick337 said:


> Thats beautiful


Thats a Crazy Setup right there,,, looks great!


----------



## splaudiohz

Fus1on said:


> Your pics show that you put a lot of effort into the install and you can do what you want but those need some work to not have any exposed metal.


Ended up putting in better grommets. What do you mean by "you can do what you want"?


----------



## Fus1on

splaudiohz said:


> Ended up putting in better grommets. What do you mean by "you can do what you want"?


By that I meant that you take my advice or not but it sounds like you had already fixed the grommets and didn't need my advice.


----------



## ryanrod

Hey splaudiohz. careful with running power leads nearby your rcas. you can get alternator wine from that. i had this issue and had to take out all my seats to re wire. huge pain in the ass. just run the power lead away from the rcas whatever you do!


----------



## splaudiohz

ryanrod said:


> Hey splaudiohz. careful with running power leads nearby your rcas. you can get alternator wine from that. i had this issue and had to take out all my seats to re wire. huge pain in the ass. just run the power lead away from the rcas whatever you do!


Good looking out. I had that problem once and it was annoying. Since I switched to a higher end twisted pair rca and beefed up my big three I am yet to have that issue. Been years since I have had that problem. Good eye though.


----------



## Boogaloo

The pic in this post is definitely a Subaru install.
What exactly are we looking at here?




fuzzysig said:


> i try to avoid using any kind of sticky /tape/glue/zip ties to hold my wiring together.
> just in case i modify or add/remove components later.
> some people only think about how it looks when installed but forget how much of a beech its gonna be to upgrade modify the system if you need to.
> heres 2 of my full alarm remote start installs in integra and 350z if i remember correctly.
> 
> and no its not a ground wire for the alarm attached to the frame
> theres also backup batteries, trunk pop, and every other option for the alarm+ wires for speakers and all kinds of other acessories hidden there.
> and its not a bch to remove since they are all separated.


----------



## ecbmxer

splaudiohz said:


> Combining the HU and peripheral components into a single less messy harness:


Wow, this looks familiar. What HU you running?


----------



## fuzzysig

wrx remote start alarm install where all the wires are routed properly and out of the way.
and without using loads of electrical tape.


----------



## USCG Charger

you guys do great work


----------



## splaudiohz

ecbmxer said:


> Wow, this looks familiar. What HU you running?


CDA117. Unless I come across a really good deal on a MX406


----------



## Rob Dobbs

wires? WTF are those?


----------



## scooter99

Rob Dobbs said:


> wires? WTF are those?


Very clean set up man!


----------



## nervewrecker

Rob Dobbs said:


> wires? WTF are those?


:laugh:


----------



## splaudiohz

Rob Dobbs said:


> wires? WTF are those?


The sting like things under that clean ass setup you have there

Nice work.


----------



## Mark the Bold

langlowe said:


> Here is what I came up with. I could have done better but not bad for my first time in over 10 years.


Very nice. Love the choice in the Clarion amp. Last two installs I've used the XH series amps. Fantabulously good taste langlowe. You could date my daughter anytime.....


----------



## Rob Dobbs

splaudiohz said:


> The sting like things under that clean ass setup you have there
> 
> Nice work.


Its not my work, so cal eddie did the install on my 07 Honda Element SC. Those amps and subs are hidden under a level false floor. The only wires out of the entire set up, or anything visible outside the head unit, is the power wires and fuses under the hood. The guy is awesome.


----------



## Golf Echo

My wiring looks pretty good except for behind my head unit. The HU has about 15 different wires hanging off the back of it so I ended up with a mess behind it just because of all the crap hanging off. I've tried to clean it up but it's kind of ridiculous still...I figure some day I'll take it all out and see what I can do again.


----------



## farfromovin

Rob Dobbs said:


> wires? WTF are those?


I'm assuming this is a trunk floor? If so, and maybe I'm blind, your trunk is now useless. You can't throw anything back there, there are no beauty panels to protect your amps/subs as they're not couter-sunk into the floor. Maybe I'm missing something here, but this seems like a horrible idea.


----------



## scooter99

Maybe instead of bashing the guy maybe you should ask him if he even cares about that. Kind of a hard comment for an "assumption". Maybe it's his play car and he never puts anything back there. 

If you look closely to the picture, it looks to me like the whole center area is sunk lower than the floor so maybe he does have something that covers it. That would be my assumption. 

Just sayin!


----------



## Rob Dobbs

farfromovin said:


> I'm assuming this is a trunk floor? If so, and maybe I'm blind, your trunk is now useless. You can't throw anything back there, there are no beauty panels to protect your amps/subs as they're not couter-sunk into the floor. Maybe I'm missing something here, but this seems like a horrible idea.


I agree, thats why I mentioned its hidden under a false floor so its kept level since I use the car for work as well


----------



## quickaudi07

joemk69 said:


> How do those ID Max's sound mounted IB?


I'm wondering my self, I would love to do it as well. I wonder how it will sound, I only have 1 12" and thinking of doing IB.. can you please give me a update on it sounds????

Also what kind of car is that. is this a Audi,, it looks like by looking at the back seats.

thanks for the update if you get back to me.


----------



## mires

Let's bring this thread back. I love looking at wiring pics.


----------



## tjswarbrick

Not up the level of a lot of guys here, but it's my first DIY and I always wanted one where the wires go under the panel:



Now show me up and show us what you've got!


----------



## simplicityinsound

I'd like to share one from i think 7 years ago, before i knew of a lot of the techniques i knew now...a lot of things i would do different these days...but...it was the first time i decided to try to make the wiring as part of the presentation in a build log even though it was never to be seen by the customer.  please dont laugh at the pointless loom hahaha


----------



## helpmeplease

My first attempt at an amp rack. Still not sure of the final placement or what else is going in or out.

Switch panel and current tweeter positions cause why not


----------



## Imagewerx

My custom made front fusebox in my 2004 Golf R32.Needed in this case because the stock VW fuseboxes always end up as a lump of melted plastic.
Like this in the first mark 4.....



Yellow heatshrink wrapped cable on the right from the alternator (2 gauge) and to it's left 0 gauge ton the back of the car.
And like this in the current one.....

017 by ImagewerxR32, on Flickr
This is how we HAD to secure wiring before some lazy guy invented cable ties......


----------



## Fetus

Imagewerx said:


> This is how we HAD to secure wiring before some lazy guy invented cable ties......


Cable lacing? I'm an electrician and sometimes I have to fault find in old panels. I die a little inside every time I need to cut cable lacing. It's always so perfect...


----------



## GLN305

I'll throw mine in


----------



## TrickyRicky

Imagewerx said:


> My custom made front fusebox in my 2004 Golf R32.Needed in this case because the stock VW fuseboxes always end up as a lump of melted plastic.
> Like this in the first mark 4.....



What are the 5 fuses that are parallel? Right on top of the volt display...That doesn't look right now does it? Please tell me it's an optical illusion and that when one of those fuses pop it actually opens the circuit.


----------



## req

i would hope they are seperated by nylon washers or something...

but the idea is awesome. i may have to steal that.


----------



## Imagewerx

Fetus said:


> Cable lacing? I'm an electrician and sometimes I have to fault find in old panels. I die a little inside every time I need to cut cable lacing. It's always so perfect...


That plastic coated stuff wasn't too bad to use compared to the waxed stuff that took the skin off your fingers.


----------



## Imagewerx

TrickyRicky said:


> What are the 5 fuses that are parallel? Right on top of the volt display...That doesn't look right now does it? Please tell me it's an optical illusion and that when one of those fuses pop it actually opens the circuit.


It's not an optical illusion as such.The bit they're bolted to isn't made from aluminium as it looks like in the photos.It's made from PTFE,the same material as the rest of the fusebox.It started out as a wooden prototype....



Which had measurements taken from it where it was converted to CAD co-ordinates and machined to look like this.......



The cutting and fitting of the aluminium busbars was done entirely by hand,it took a LOT of work to get them to be that snug a fit.


----------



## Alrojoca

Nice! Maybe next time use a 3D printed fuse box? 



Can anyone that posted already or plan to post, include a shot of the amplifiers ground points if possible? I have searched and searched all over and I have not seen one dual amp shared ground.


----------



## Imagewerx

Alrojoca said:


> Nice! Maybe next time use a 3D printed fuse box?


Thank you and 3D printers were just a crazy dream when I made this.Maybe next time eh?


----------



## tjswarbrick

Alrojoca,
Not sure if it's what you're looking for, and may not follow professional installer best-practices, but in my Post #132 above, I use a Scosche E2 1 to 4 distribution block for ground. It's the one mounted below the left had "JL Audio" side of the JX360/2 amp on the right.
The big red lead is 4Ga from the stock ground location (sanded and treated for a long-lasting solid connection) behind the right wheel well for the factory HK amplifier (which still sends hi-level signals to the DQ-61.)
The black leads run to ground on the JX500/1D, JX360/2, and DQ61.
And it is the quietest autosound system I've ever had - no hum, no whine, no nonsense.


----------



## 94VG30DE

Imagewerx said:


>


No hyperbole: this may be the most beautiful fuse box I've ever seen. Packaging-wise it looks to be at least twice as big as it needs to be, but man is it beautiful. Serious props my friend. If there were hand-Sharpie'd labels for what each fuse supplied, I would double high-five you.


----------



## jel847

tjswarbrick said:


> Not up the level of a lot of guys here, but it's my first DIY and I always wanted one where the wires go under the panel:
> 
> 
> 
> Now show me up and show us what you've got!


Very nice for your first time!


----------



## tjswarbrick

jel847 said:


> Very nice for your first time!


Thanks! I appreciate that.

Though I must admit, I just replaced the THHN power and ground wires with Stinger, and I'm awaiting some custom signal wires to replace the PBJ. I wanted to keep things more accessible, and couldn't find the time/motivation to remove the rack or the back seat. (The rack seems easy, but lining up the bolts with the riv nuts and, in particular, the holes in the carpeting, tends to take me HOURS.) So, other than speaker and primary power wires, very little runs behind the panel anymore. I've done what I could to tack things down and keep it clean. I'll post a new pic next week when the RCA's come in.


----------



## Imagewerx

94VG30DE said:


> No hyperbole: this may be the most beautiful fuse box I've ever seen. Packaging-wise it looks to be at least twice as big as it needs to be, but man is it beautiful. Serious props my friend. If there were hand-Sharpie'd labels for what each fuse supplied, I would double high-five you.


Thank you very much! It's normally got a perspex cover over it like this first version,it's now got a 20% VLT tint on it (can't find any photos) with a little window for the volt meter.....



The original plan was to get this engraved with the fuse functions,but it's just something I never got round to.I need to get some new jump start terminals made up as those ones are too small to take decent sized croc clips,so might make a new top cover at the same time and get it finished properly this time.


----------



## TrickyRicky

Imagewerx said:


> Thank you very much! It's normally got a perspex cover over it like this first version,it's now got a 20% VLT tint on it (can't find any photos) with a little window for the volt meter.....
> 
> 
> 
> The original plan was to get this engraved with the fuse functions,but it's just something I never got round to.I need to get some new jump start terminals made up as those ones are too small to take decent sized croc clips,so might make a new top cover at the same time and get it finished properly this time.



That is BAD ASS, a plexi with each fuse labeled would be even more bad ass sort of like PG did with the MS amps.


----------



## req

joemk69 said:


> How do those ID Max's sound mounted IB?


i had quite a few compliments over the years i had them installed. 

i always wanted deeper infrasonic bass, and i feel like it was a limit of cone area that was keeping me from that. so i have upgraded to bigger speakers.

but idmax's are awesome in infinite baffle. even in the competition circuit that i was part of in 2012.


----------



## Imagewerx

TrickyRicky said:


> That is BAD ASS, a plexi with each fuse labeled would be even more bad ass sort of like PG did with the MS amps.


Thank you,and some good motivation to get it done and finished for this summer.Should look good with a nice edge lit .:R logo in the middle of it as well!


----------



## tjswarbrick

Just finished up my first complete set of DIY interconnects.
Here's my fully re-wired trunk amp rack:









Not totally professional, but I think it looks darn good for a first-timer's third try!
(It's my first DIY install, but I've re-ran the wires a couple times since the initial "completion" last fall.)


----------



## strakele

Couple of mine. Nothing special.


----------



## JayinMI

Here's a before-and-after of a Z06 Vette I redid. I also built the simple amp rack cover.

Before:









In progress: (Pretty much done, I just hadn't wired the X-overs yet)



Amp rack. I threw this together for cheap because I felt the car deserved something nicer than what was in there.



Jay


----------



## MiloX

strakele said:


> Couple of mine. Nothing special.


Gorgeous.


----------



## MiloX

My wiring always looks like poo.


----------



## simplicityinsound

GLN305 said:


> I'll throw mine in



this...i am a big fan of... having built a lot of that type of builds, i love the wiring organization!


----------



## danno

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h459/nuclearfire718/Build Log/DSCN1909.jpg

what is that your doing with the RCAs? Is it just wire ties with smaller wire ties in the middle? Very nice


----------



## tjswarbrick

Don't know that it looks THAT good, but I thought the hinged panel for the crossover pretty creative. The only place on the rack I could find to mount it was in front of the DSP.
The 1ft Mogami molded wires are certainly cleaner than the .5 and 1 meter Kimber's I had in there.


----------



## strakele

danno said:


> http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h459/nuclearfire718/Build Log/DSCN1909.jpg
> 
> what is that your doing with the RCAs? Is it just wire ties with smaller wire ties in the middle? Very nice


Yep, that's it. Keeps them in the orientation I wanted rather than collapsing into a round bundle. And looks neat.


----------



## knifedag007

Some good looking wiring in here, will post some of mine up as my build comes together.


----------



## RNBRAD

My most recent project.

I had to make the RCA's to get a tight fit, not much room.








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[/URL][/IMG]

Do all the wiring work and then you can't even see them, lol.







[/URL][/IMG]


I have a pic if I can find it from back in the day I used the screw clamp type wire clips like in the pic above. I painted them with interior paint to match interior, each were spaced evenly, and all secured with machine polished stainless screws that faced the same (flathead negative) - - - -. I tied a guy for BOS and this was the difference that got me the trophy. I also remember waisting several feet of esoteric streetwires wiring to get all the lettering just the same coming out of my fuse block. That's how OCD competition makes you. I have no desire to do systems like that again.


----------



## 94VG30DE

RNBRAD said:


> I also remember waisting several feet of esoteric streetwires wiring to get all the lettering just the same coming out of my fuse block.


That is beautiful... and I would be so angry if I saw that type of work come from any shop I worked in, because of the amount of time it would take versus what that time could have been used for. I agree, competition is evil


----------



## topsub

strakele said:


>


How do you tie the wires together like that? Is it zip ties?


----------



## jowens500

Our shop car^



























2014 F-150^



























Escalade^


----------



## JVD240

Some pretty work in here!

I sometimes wire stuff in not cars.

Current project. Still had to shrink labels/clean up after pic. I should take a finished/better one. Hard to tell in the pic but there's quite a few wires running in/out. Luckily Dante networks are making my life a lot easier these days.

Untitled by jvd240, on Flickr

Untitled by jvd240, on Flickr


----------



## strakele

topsub said:


> How do you tie the wires together like that? Is it zip ties?


Sure is.


----------



## jnchantler

strakele said:


> Sure is.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like one zips tie was run around all three cables and then two more were added, one between each wire perpendicular to the first zip tie.


----------



## DLO13

jnchantler said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like one zips tie was run around all three cables and then two more were added, one between each wire perpendicular to the first zip tie.


Looks like it. I have used this before inside computer cases. Works well when you need a lot of wires to lay perfectly flat on the opposite side of the computer case (between the back of the motherboard and the case).

Just went thru the rest of the thread... Found this... You can see how its done on a larger scale


----------



## strakele

Yes, that's exactly how I did it. I usually use a larger 'main' one to go around all of the wires, then smaller ones to separate.


----------



## Gadget01

I "borrowed" this technique from Strakele and applied it today:


----------



## expiredtags

Where are you guys buying all these cool distribution blocks?

All these wiring jobs look amazing. Makes me feel like garbage for doing such a sloppy job haha.


----------



## Gadget01

I use a Kicker DB4 for both hot and ground distros. Each amp has it's own fuses but I'm considering a fused distro instead. Naturally, the one I really like is hard to find (Audison SFD41C).


----------



## topsub

Gadget01 said:


> I use a Kicker DB4 for both hot and ground distros. Each amp has it's own fuses but I'm considering a fused distro instead. Naturally, the one I really like is hard to find (Audison SFD41C).


Ya i can't find the stinger or the audsion distro block any where. I called a local dealer and they can't get it. Seems company's aren't making cool ones anymore.


----------



## RNBRAD

Yes and the quality of current units leaves a lot to be desired. Even well known brands such as Streetwires are skeptical at best. I just replaced a relatively new unit that broke a second time. Guess what, they changed the mounting hole locations on the last 3 designs over a 4 yrs period. Makes for an extra expense on my part as you can see. So this time I'm going to mount the fuse to some cheap plexi instead of a $70 billet battery cover, my second one, lol. I'll post pics when done. As far as I'm concerned, the best units made today are barely worth the velcro it takes to secure them, if you so choose to use that, which with hindsight I should have.


----------



## 94VG30DE

RNBRAD said:


> As far as I'm concerned, the best units made today are barely worth the velcro it takes to secure them, if you so choose to use that, which with hindsight I should have.


This is why I use brands that have OEMs leaning on them for quality, consistent products. When you have a company (mine, for instance) including two or more of the JB3816-2 into the BOM of 10s of thousands of just a single SKU, there is incentive to not change that part, and not screw it up. 
Blocks, Junctions Blocks, Terminal Blocks- Fuse Holders 

If you want to really look OEM and have a product you have zero problems with (spec or usability) build yourself a strip of Cooper MIDI fuse holders and call it a day. You can put as many in a row as you want, they take up less space than your giant inline fuse holders, and there is plenty of choice in fuse rating. 
LMI Bolt-in Fuse Holder for Single or Multiple AMI Fuses
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...ation/Resources/catalog_pages/BUS_Tns_LMI.pdf 
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46390/LMI-AMI-MIDI-FUSE-HOLDER/ 









Did I mention that this strip of "1 in 6 out" modules is less than 5 freaking dollars? Why do we spend stupid money on shiny car-audio-specific things made by marketing companies when you could spend less buying from the electronics manufacturers that the OEMs use?


----------



## EriCCirE

94VG30DE said:


> Did I mention that this strip of "1 in 6 out" modules is less than 5 freaking dollars? Why do we spend stupid money on shiny car-audio-specific things made by marketing companies when you could spend less buying from the electronics manufacturers that the OEMs use?



1x LMI AMI ( MIDI ) INPUT MODULE 5/16 - 18" STUD - $4.0300
6x LMI AMI ( MIDI) FUSE HOLDER COVER 6 BUSS + 1 INPUT MAX $4.8100
1x LMI AMI 7 POSITION BUSBAR B109-7046-7 $5.3700


Total cost is $38.26 from the waytekwire website you referenced. Please explain how one can build one for under $5


----------



## 94VG30DE

EriCCirE said:


> 1x LMI AMI ( MIDI ) INPUT MODULE 5/16 - 18" STUD - $4.0300
> 6x LMI AMI ( MIDI) FUSE HOLDER COVER 6 BUSS + 1 INPUT MAX $4.8100
> 1x LMI AMI 7 POSITION BUSBAR B109-7046-7 $5.3700
> 
> 
> Total cost is $38.26 from the waytekwire website you referenced. Please explain how one can build one for under $5


Ha! This is what I get for writing cranky posts at 10:30 at night. The description wording is misleading, I had to look at the spec sheet. Thank you for keeping me honest, as that price definitely seemed low to me, but I was too lazy to double-check. 

Let's spec a more reasonable comparison to a standard "car audio" distro block:StreetWires Combo AGU Fused Distribution Block 4-way/4-gauge at Crutchfield.com (first one that came up in google) - Original price $80. Includes 1x4 distro for ground in the same block. Not my style, but to each his own. 

input module LMI1-E-1-2 - $4.03
4 Fuse holder LMI1-E-0-0 - $4.81 ($19.24)
busbar 4-position B109-7046-4 $3.90
Total $27.17

But that comparison was rigged from the start, because no one likes those glass barrel fuses and Streetwires is the perfect example of car-audio marketing upcharging. Let's compare a Stinger product that uses MIDI fuses! 
Stinger SHD821 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) Distribution - SHD821 
Still $30.25, still requires set screws for wire connection rather than quality crimps on ring terminals, and still some clear plastic cover instead of something that looks OEM in a vehicle. I will also choose studs/nuts over socket-head screws for serviceability every day of the week, but maybe not everyone has that preference? This is all beside the fact that you are getting Stinger quality vs. Cooper quality. 

It's not as slam dunk on paper, but it still really seems like a no-brainer to me, _especially _if your fusing is in the engine compartment.


----------



## 94VG30DE

I forgot to mention, Littelfuse makes a slightly different and slightly cheaper versions of the MIDI fuse holder modules in lots of different configurations, and they are available from Mouser: 
Littelfuse midi fuse Fuse Holders | Mouser 

Putting this here for the next time I need to fuse something, as the inline cable ones look especially darling, and are smaller than the setup I'm using now.


----------



## EriCCirE

Id much rather have the industrial OEM look with the first setup you suggested, however I cannot seem to beat the price of this combo power and ground block:

Tsunami TPFDB-4PG ANL Fused Power Fused Distribution Block


----------



## 94VG30DE

I would never want my connections stacked like that, nor power and ground that close to each other, but if your install requires that kind of density, go for it. I look at that and see fire though.


----------



## EriCCirE

Good call. I was apprehensive about purchasing it, especially due to the gaudy blue LED. Your revelations have confirmed my decision against it. 

Space is not an issue, looks like I am back to the drawing board.

-off topic: I have the same engine. 300ZX? I have the J30


----------



## EriCCirE

94VG30DE said:


> I forgot to mention, Littelfuse makes a slightly different and slightly cheaper versions of the MIDI fuse holder modules in lots of different configurations, and they are available from Mouser:
> Littelfuse midi fuse Fuse Holders | Mouser
> 
> Putting this here for the next time I need to fuse something, as the inline cable ones look especially darling, and are smaller than the setup I'm using now.


Same in-line fuse holder available @ Waytek for $1.70:

04980921GXM5 Littlefuse MIDI Inline Fuse Holder


----------



## REGULARCAB

I'm loving those, would save a ton of space too. Hmmmm


----------



## Gadget01

94VG30DE said:


> I would never want my connections stacked like that, nor power and ground that close to each other, but if your install requires that kind of density, go for it. I look at that and see fire though.


Why not? They're easily that close to one another at the amplifiers. This is about as compact of a combo fused distro block as I have seen, and a nice nice option for a space-limited installation. The only thing I don't like from what I can see from the pics is the flashy brand tag, but that could be toned down with some flat black paint.

It looks like it would get pretty crowded with 4-gauge sleeved cables on the outputs. Should be no problem for 8 gauge though.


----------



## sebberry

Blue Sea Systems makes a pretty solid fuse block too. 

Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems


----------



## Gadget01

sebberry said:


> Blue Sea Systems makes a pretty solid fuse block too.
> 
> Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems


Those are nice indeed. I considered the SafetyHub 150 to be an all-in-one solution for my car. Amazon has it for $97. Too expensive IMO.


----------



## sebberry

Gadget01 said:


> Those are nice indeed. I considered the SafetyHub 150 to be an all-in-one solution for my car. Amazon has it for $97. Too expensive IMO.


Quality costs money. It's a solid piece. You could use it to smash a typical car audio fuse block to pieces and it would escape unscathed. 

The quality difference between something that has to meet various standards and something that doesn't is readily apparent. 

I agree that it's a little expensive for most car audio folks, and the SafetyHub 150 you mentioned is a little on the large size. They're designed for electrical closets on boats, after all, not the microscopic compartments in new cars. 

I wish someone would come up with some higher quality fuse blocks for cars.


----------



## 94VG30DE

sebberry said:


> I wish someone would come up with some higher quality fuse blocks for cars.


Did you look at the Bussmann or LittelFuse stuff? There is already quality stuff for the car market, and that's it. They don't package MIDI fuses (high current) and ATO fuses (low current) in the same package, but they do have nice packaging for both, and weather-tight if you are into that sort of thing.


----------



## whacks

EriCCirE said:


> Id much rather have the industrial OEM look with the first setup you suggested, however I cannot seem to beat the price of this combo power and ground block:
> 
> Tsunami TPFDB-4PG ANL Fused Power Fused Distribution Block


if you like that one check out. been running one for a while now and love it. 
KonFUSED 4 Way Fused Distribution Block - Merchandise


----------



## gckless

Looks pretty decent I think:





Under that, not so much at the moment. Need to clean it up.


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## 94VG30DE

Is that 4ga cable for a speaker run?


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## gckless

94VG30DE said:


> Is that 4ga cable for a speaker run?


For subs? Nah, 8ga.


----------



## 94VG30DE

gckless said:


> For subs? Nah, 8ga.


ha! "only 8ga" 
It just looks huge because that amp is really narrow I guess. Regardless, looks good


----------



## RNBRAD

Finally got it done. I found out my new fuse was just high enough my hood would hit it when I closed it so I had to move it back off the battery cover. Always something, 3 and half hours and 26 dollars later. My original idea was to bend the bar down and tuck it behind the battery. Still not sure.


----------



## 94VG30DE

Yeah I think if you bend that tab at a 45 down, it will still look good but be below the hoodline. I would rather do that than mount the fuse on the underside of the tab, as that would prevent access.


----------



## RNBRAD

94VG30DE said:


> Yeah I think if you bend that tab at a 45 down, it will still look good but be below the hoodline. I would rather do that than mount the fuse on the underside of the tab, as that would prevent access.


Yea that was my original idea. Previously I had it mounted right on top of the billet battery cover. Well unknowing my hood was hitting the edge of my previous fuse which resulted in cracking the case over time. There's a notch on the side of the Chevy hood that the fuse where it's at now clears, so no risk of hitting it like it is. I stared at it today though and I just don't like it the way it is and I think an angle would look better and maintain access and function. It looks good now but I'm not 100% satisfied. It just needs something and the angle may be it. I've got a bull nose bender so I may do it. Thanks for your input. Simple things like this is what keeps me awake at night, lol.


----------



## Alrojoca

My fused power dist block not shown, is screwed under the wood rack, the gnd dist block is raised with some plastic feet to use all the room possible in that tight space.

What is the trick to post the pictures big? I tried the settings in the user cp without any luck


----------



## bigbubba

page marked


----------



## Gadget01

Alrojoca said:


> What is the trick to post the pictures big? I tried the settings in the user cp without any luck


Upload/host your images on an image hosting site (I use Flickr) and post pic links.


----------



## Alrojoca

Gadget01 said:


> Upload/host your images on an image hosting site (I use Flickr) and post pic links.


Thanks


----------



## Extended Power

My amp rack wiring....


----------



## HiloDB1

Extended Power said:


> My amp rack wiring....


Very nice work


----------



## leepersc

Extended Power said:


> My amp rack wiring....


Damn Man! I absolutely love the use of the copper tubing! I've always wondered why more installers don't venture out of the box like this. Cool and classy looking. Great work!


----------



## Tsop1

llooks goods


----------



## fordriver1

nice work! is it a pest to keep shoiny tho?


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## Extended Power

fordriver1 said:


> nice work! is it a pest to keep shoiny tho?


Thank you
I coated all the copper with lacquer after polishing it.


----------



## TrickyRicky

Extended Power said:


> Thank you
> I coated all the copper with lacquer after polishing it.


That is very cool looking, looks like an old industry machine or mad scientist experiment. I bet you were very careful not to nick the power/ground cables when running them through the copper...


----------



## lsm

Extended Power said:


> My amp rack wiring....


That sir is BA!


----------



## adam_rostron

one of my wiring photos


----------



## Babs

Ah wth. Rack I got together over the weekend. Ok I guess. Goal was to reclaim the spare tire and keep the pass-through.
















Got it fired up, but still some wire management to do. I've learned something to be said for "good" distro blocks and amps with all connections on one side. Of which I have neither. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gadget01

Babs said:


> Got it fired up, but still some wire management to do. I've learned something to be said for "good" distro blocks and amps with all connections on one side. Of which I have neither.


What sucks worse is getting your cables all dialed in only to find out one of the components doesn't work. Always a good idea to ops-check it before making it pretty.

After a year or so, I'm still ops-checking some of my installation.


----------



## Niebur3

Extended Power said:


> My amp rack wiring....


It looks pretty, but from my understanding, it won't work nearly as well as stranded copper wire.


----------



## Babs

Gadget01 said:


> What sucks worse is getting your cables all dialed in only to find out one of the components doesn't work. Always a good idea to ops-check it before making it pretty.
> 
> After a year or so, I'm still ops-checking some of my installation.


yeah no kidding. I'm troubleshooting a weird scenario where my 149bt decided to go unresponsive. very odd. Lights up but no face response and doesnt remote out to turn on the dsp. Ive got to pull it and troubleshoot. Played fine until that. It gets power, ground and remote connections at the terminal block to ground commonly with everything else.


----------



## Gadget01

Niebur3 said:


> It looks pretty, but from my understanding, it won't work nearly as well as stranded copper wire.


I'm assuming it's just a conduit for the power cables and as tight as those elbow joints are, I suppose the cable was run through prior to assembly.

You'd be kinda crazy for running any length of inflexible conductor unless the installation is in a tightly controlled temperature-stable environment. A car does not offer anything that remotely resembles this.

It's rather lovely to look at though. Clever trick you did there coating the copper with lacquer to inhibit oxidation/preserve the shine.




Babs said:


> I'm troubleshooting a weird scenario where my 149bt decided to go unresponsive. very odd. Lights up but no face response and doesnt remote out to turn on the dsp. Ive got to pull it and troubleshoot. Played fine until that. It gets power, ground and remote connections at the terminal block to ground commonly with everything else.


I had HU that grew some funk on one or more of the faceplate connector pins. Soon as I cleaned it a little with a small wire brush it worked fine again. Good luck-


----------



## oscardillo

From italy

http://caraudioforum.altervista.org/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=17278&mode=view

http://caraudioforum.altervista.org/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=17268&mode=view

http://caraudioforum.altervista.org/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=17269&mode=view

http://caraudioforum.altervista.org/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=17270&mode=view


----------



## Lou Frasier2

mine does for a change,but unfortunately i did not take pics when I installed my system in my tacoma and everything is hidden so that you cant see any of it in the truck and im not gonna take everything out to take pics until i decide if i need to add mlv


----------



## juiceweazel

tjswarbrick said:


> Not up the level of a lot of guys here, but it's my first DIY and I always wanted one where the wires go under the panel:
> 
> 
> 
> Now show me up and show us what you've got!


I know this is an old thread, but I love install pics. Nice install & clean. Quick question. Is that 4 gauge power & 8 gauge ground I see or is the camera playing tricks with me?


----------



## tjswarbrick

juiceweazel said:


> I know this is an old thread, but I love install pics. Nice install & clean. Quick question. Is that 4 gauge power & 8 gauge ground I see or is the camera playing tricks with me?


Thank you!
No tricks.
I Should probably pick up some black 4-gauge for the grounds - just have a limited supply of the big stuff. Also have 4-gauge running from the battery to power distro, as well as the 3 feet from the ground point in the trunk to the ground-distro block. Did the math, and for those short runs at ~ 300 watts 10 gauge was all that was necessary for each amp - 8 would suffice at max power. So I figured if 8 is good, what could it hurt going with 4 on the "hot" side? 
I've read since then that I should've probably gone 8 on both, but it hasn't given me any trouble.

Changed out the stereo amp, though.


Now most of the under-panel holes don't line up.  What a mess.


----------



## juiceweazel

tjswarbrick said:


> Thank you!
> No tricks.
> I Should probably pick up some black 4-gauge for the grounds - just have a limited supply of the big stuff. Also have 4-gauge running from the battery to power distro, as well as the 3 feet from the ground point in the trunk to the ground-distro block. Did the math, and for those short runs at ~ 300 watts 10 gauge was all that was necessary for each amp - 8 would suffice at max power. So I figured if 8 is good, what could it hurt going with 4 on the "hot" side?
> I've read since then that I should've probably gone 8 on both, but it hasn't given me any trouble.
> 
> Changed out the stereo amp, though.
> 
> 
> Now most of the under-panel holes don't line up.  What a mess.


That's what covers are for. Nobody else will ever see it ha ha.
You can never have too big of power or ground wire. Just as long as things are wired safely. Now the big concern here though is that you should always use the same ground and power wire size. You can cook the amp or start a fire if you don't. You have 4 gauge power & 10 gauge ground? That's a major difference. I would change that now. Not one of those I'll get around to it duties.


----------



## Babs

Babs said:


> yeah no kidding. I'm troubleshooting a weird scenario where my 149bt decided to go unresponsive. very odd. Lights up but no face response and doesnt remote out to turn on the dsp. Ive got to pull it and troubleshoot. Played fine until that. It gets power, ground and remote connections at the terminal block to ground commonly with everything else.


So duh! Issue resolved I believe. Note to self.. Don't play with the DSP in garage to the point your battery dies.  Smooth move ex-lax!


----------



## tjswarbrick

juiceweazel said:


> That's what covers are for. Nobody else will ever see it ha ha.
> You can never have too big of power or ground wire. Just as long as things are wired safely. Now the big concern here though is that you should always use the same ground and power wire size. You can cook the amp or start a fire if you don't. You have 4 gauge power & 10 gauge ground? That's a major difference. I would change that now. Not one of those I'll get around to it duties.


Well, it's 4 and 8, but you're right.
Since I'm no longer running the ground behind the board, it's a pretty easy fix. Just need to pick some up.
Thank you.


----------



## Extended Power

Niebur3 said:


> It looks pretty, but from my understanding, it won't work nearly as well as stranded copper wire.


The 4ga, and 12ga wires are run on the inside of the copper pipe...it works fine.


----------



## Niebur3

Extended Power said:


> The 4ga, and 12ga wires are run on the inside of the copper pipe...it works fine.


That is a great idea then. Love the look!


----------



## gckless

Extended Power said:


> My amp rack wiring....


Not going to quote the picture again, but this is very pretty. Very nicely done.


----------



## tjswarbrick

tjswarbrick said:


> Well, it's 4 and 8, but you're right.
> Since I'm no longer running the ground behind the board, it's a pretty easy fix. Just need to pick some up.
> Thank you.


Cleaned up.
Had 8ga for power and ground on the stereo amp - left 'em alone.
It was the Mono amp with the mis-match. In "normal" mode pushing 300W at 4Ohms, 8 would've been fine. But I'm more of an overkill guy, and I'm currently running a temporary 2Ohm sub setup, drawing up to 500W from that amp, I went with 4 Ga on both.

The big gray wire on the bottom front is coming out tomorrow - it's for the temporary sub. 
This isn't really pretty enough for this thread anymore, but I thought I'd share it since the conversation started here.


Most of the time it looks like this anyway


----------



## Mr Orange

This a photo of my 03 Focus SVT. This rack was below a false floor in the hatch area and above the spare tire well. 










No wires yet but this is the new project, 13 Focus ST. That Sony is going bye, bye!


----------



## juiceweazel

tjswarbrick said:


> Cleaned up.
> Had 8ga for power and ground on the stereo amp - left 'em alone.
> It was the Mono amp with the mis-match. In "normal" mode pushing 300W at 4Ohms, 8 would've been fine. But I'm more of an overkill guy, and I'm currently running a temporary 2Ohm sub setup, drawing up to 500W from that amp, I went with 4 Ga on both.
> 
> The big gray wire on the bottom front is coming out tomorrow - it's for the temporary sub.
> This isn't really pretty enough for this thread anymore, but I thought I'd share it since the conversation started here.
> 
> 
> Most of the time it looks like this anyway


There ya go. I'm guessing it "would" have been fine as I've seen a lot of guys do the same thing, but you never know. Besides, now your amps will run more efficient if you push them. I've always loved the hidden look.


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## kustomkaraudio

some various stuff..


----------



## 61ragtop

strakele said:


> Couple of mine. Nothing special.


just getting ready to wire up my first system since high school, so I came across this topic and read through it.

I am sorry but did you say nothing special???? that looks amazing!! I love it!!!!



Also are those home made ca's in the last pic? 

AWESOME WORK MAN!!!!!!!!


----------



## the_dealer

This is about all you can see of it, what you can't see doesn't matter. There ain't bulges in the carpet or risk of damage, so what's under the carpet don't matter. 


BTW, do they make something like carpet grommets or something for wires that come thru the carpet? I've seen something similar on amp racks but have no clue what their called. 


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®4 on 38's


----------



## percy072

Think I've finally settled on a set-up that I'm going to stick with for some time...so decided to do a little nip and tuck. 

Simple, compact, safe...


----------



## strakele

61ragtop said:


> just getting ready to wire up my first system since high school, so I came across this topic and read through it.
> 
> I am sorry but did you say nothing special???? that looks amazing!! I love it!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Also are those home made ca's in the last pic?
> 
> AWESOME WORK MAN!!!!!!!!


Thanks man I appreciate it 

Yes, those are home made RCA's.


----------



## quickaudi07

Still in progress.. Few pics.









Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gadget01

quickaudi07 said:


> Still in progress.. Few pics.


That does not suck, not even a little.


----------



## tjswarbrick

quickaudi07 said:


> Still in progress.. Few pics.


So far, that looks quite impressive.


----------



## quickaudi07

Thank you I try 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## quickaudi07

It was a lot of work I won't lie lol... 6 hours

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## 61ragtop

I see a lot of people using buss bars for what looks to be speaker wires. Is that just for ease of removing the rack if needed? And the power would disconnect from the fused dist block? 


Looking good everyone!! I am about to start mine shortly so I will post up too!!


----------



## gckless

61ragtop said:


> I see a lot of people using buss bars for what looks to be speaker wires. Is that just for ease of removing the rack if needed? And the power would disconnect from the fused dist block?
> 
> 
> Looking good everyone!! I am about to start mine shortly so I will post up too!!


I think you're talking about the terminal strips. They are isolated from the one next to it, and only connect to the one across from it. They can eliminate having to crimp or solder wires from different devices, make it easier to replace or remove things and aren't as permanent. Nice central connection point too.

A buss bar for speakers would only be used in very certain situations.


----------



## 61ragtop

gckless said:


> I think you're talking about the terminal strips. They are isolated from the one next to it, and only connect to the one across from it. They can eliminate having to crimp or solder wires from different devices, make it easier to replace or remove things and aren't as permanent. Nice central connection point too.
> 
> A buss bar for speakers would only be used in very certain situations.




Yes terminal strips is what I meant. I couldn't think of the right term lol. Thanks.


----------



## Brian_smith06

My wiring current is the furthest thing from pretty but I will be installing a new heater core in a couple weeks and since my dash is coming out I plan to deaden the firewall so figured why im at it why not deaden the whole cabin so everything will be coming out and getting redone. Will post pics when complete.


----------



## meducky

Very nice work in here, working on a new trunk layout since I fried one of my amps that was mounted under the shelf in the trunk. Working on a false floor set-up and rack on the side. Will post pics of before and after once I'm done with it.


----------



## jowens500

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Babs

The battery got a little better at least. Re did the big-3 and amp wiring distribution.










Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## the_dealer

Had to replace the alternator field connector plug and all the injector plugs, and decided to redo all the underhood wiring with techflex while I was at it. Went from 4awg big 3 to 0awg. 




Sent from my G870a on 38's.


----------



## Niebur3

jowens500 said:


> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Am I looking at this wrong or do I see passive crossovers and a fused distribution block being mounting so that it will be under the seat cushion?


----------



## jowens500

Niebur3 said:


> Am I looking at this wrong or do I see passive crossovers and a fused distribution block being mounting so that it will be under the seat cushion?



Nope, your seeing it right. The seat doesn't sit flat on the plastic. You can still see everything and the seat literally pops right out.


----------



## Niebur3

jowens500 said:


> Nope, your seeing it right. The seat doesn't sit flat on the plastic. You can still see everything and the seat literally pops right out.


And you think that is a good place to put something like a fused distribution block?


----------



## jowens500

It's been in there for like 6 years already, so yeah, I think it's a perfect place for it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## quickaudi07

The last poster with the pics, Oh boy, you are waiting for a disaster, I had my 0g wire like this and from heat, it burst in the middle and it was my positive wire. I will never have a HOT wire bend like this. I hope you got that redone.


----------



## quickaudi07

North Star Battery


----------



## Camjon

Why not just run all the wiring along the rockers instead of in the center of the car? And when you mount all your gear on a board and hook up all the wiring is that just for mockup?


----------



## dallasneon

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## KrautNotRice

dallasneon said:


> View attachment 112314
> View attachment 112322
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


That's very clean!


----------



## quickaudi07

Camjon said:


> Why not just run all the wiring along the rockers instead of in the center of the car? And when you mount all your gear on a board and hook up all the wiring is that just for mockup?


 No I had no room from behind the Amps. And I had one last spot open for connecting my second battery so i ran cable there. Trust me I don't do no comp.... Its for my enjoyment only! I think my wires still kook better than best buy shop 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Staffordshire

awesome pics, just went through all the pages and got my inspiration and motivation to redo wiring in my car. i just hope it`s not raining outside


----------



## Camjon

quickaudi07 said:


> No I had no room from behind the Amps. And I had one last spot open for connecting my second battery so i ran cable there. Trust me I don't do no comp.... Its for my enjoyment only! I think my wires still kook better than best buy shop
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


I think it looks good. I guess people get all their gear on a board and wire it all up then put it in the car? Is that right?


----------



## audijay

Any audi's in here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ironman80

audijay said:


> Any audi's in here?


I have two older Audi Coupe and 80. :dead_horse:


----------



## dvcrogers

I really appreciate all the input on this older post.


----------



## Speedhunter

Hm


----------



## Theslaking

dvcrogers said:


> I really appreciate all the input on this older post.


I'm surprised you're still around to post on this thread.


----------



## Ge0

Do I really need to use TechFlex to grow hair on my chest? What If I use OEM grade power wire and wrap my harnesses like they do? Is that sexy enough? 

Seriously, the crap you can buy from car audio suppliers looks cool but has cheap plastic jackets prone to nick's or being cut. TechFlex is a bandage for a problem that should not exist.

Just my biased opinion.

Ge0


----------



## Johnny on another level !




----------



## Johnny on another level !

Johnny on another level ! said:


> View attachment 274621


Capacitor was only to mess with a friend. It is covering up my 4 channel.


----------

