# New Build - 2018 Grand Cherokee



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I pulled all the audio out of my Mazda and traded it in on this beauty! It's the Altitude trim with leather seats (two tone with suede). For those of you who know the JGCs they have an enormous spare tire/storage area which is perfect for subwoofers and amps!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have the following equipment from my Mazda:

Zapco 4 channel and sub amp, Audio Frog GB10s, GS40s and GS60s, MiniDSP 6x8, Fiio x3 and a Kicker 2 channel for rear fill.
(2) JL 10tw3s in a sealed box.

Basically this stuff:




























I haven't decide which way I am going to go with this build... Not sure if I will use any of the above equipment, either. 

The wheels are turning in my mind! :laugh:


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

That's where I was when I got my Explorer a few months back. Still trying to make final decisions.

Nice looking ride. Congrats!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Awwwww, you got me there as we were talking about rwd and American lol. Very nice look, and as always waiting to see which way you go with this.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subbed!!! Still working on a plan for our 2014 Grand Cherokee. Looks like the PAC Amp-Pro is an awesome piece to bypass that factory amp and get a great signal to start from, and you can get optical output from an optional add-on PAC offers. I've picked up the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to use instead. And you're right, much as the idea of losing the spare tire seems bad, the space under there is ginormous!

You considering rear fill with this build? Those rear D pillars really are tiny, but Morel offers are 2.5" wideband now that might could work.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys!!

Here are the doors I'm working with, I think they are 6x9s. They sound pretty good for factory speakers...










Seats with suede inserts:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> Subbed!!! Still working on a plan for our 2014 Grand Cherokee. Looks like the PAC Amp-Pro is an awesome piece to bypass that factory amp and get a great signal to start from, and you can get optical output from an optional add-on PAC offers. I've picked up the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to use instead. And you're right, much as the idea of losing the spare tire seems bad, the space under there is ginormous!
> 
> You considering rear fill with this build? Those rear D pillars really are tiny, but Morel offers are 2.5" wideband now that might could work.


Not sure if I am going to do rear fill... But if I do there is plenty of space in the trunk to do some pods.

I think I could talk myself into loosing the spare, it wouldn't be the first time I was spare-less... Honestly, I have never had an actual flat tire in my life. A couple times I have had a nail in the tire, but was able to make it to the tire shop. Maybe having one of those small compressors on board could be cool...

Speaking of on-board, it has 115v outlet in the center console! That's pretty cool... 


Aside from audio, I am going to do some other fun stuff, too. First, I'll get spacers to bring the wheels flush with the fender, and next will be lowering it with SRT springs.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Heck yeah! I'd love to go in that sportier direction with ours, but it's one of the off road oriented WK2, so going in the other direction.

Totally with you on the spare. Only had one, and of course for that instance, did not have a tire in the trunk. Doh! But, we're going with taller tires than stock anyways, so the spare will be useless on ours. 

You thinking about getting the Audiofrog GS690 to complement your other ribbit gear?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> Heck yeah! I'd love to go in that sportier direction with ours, but it's one of the off road oriented WK2, so going in the other direction.
> 
> Totally with you on the spare. Only had one, and of course for that instance, did not have a tire in the trunk. Doh! But, we're going with taller tires than stock anyways, so the spare will be useless on ours.
> 
> You thinking about getting the Audiofrog GS690 to complement your other ribbit gear?


Mine is 2wd, so it will stay on road.  Are you going to lift yours and do new wheels and tires??

I am thinking, maybe I should try the AF 6x9s... The stock one has some shockingly decent bass, I was swearing that this thing has a subwoofer somewhere, but it doesn't.

*I have never used a 6x9, are there any down sides over a 6.5??*


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

No lift for ours, it has the Quadra-Lift air suspension to raise up for certain terrain, but heck yeah, these babies can tuck 32" tires no problem. Will be keeping the stock wheels, just changing tires. 

But man, these WK2 can go sporty so easily. Especially yours, love the Altitude trim option, with the blacked out trim and tail lights, and the colored mesh grille pieces! 

Hoping more will chime in on the 6x9 - HillBilly SQ has those AF GS690 and loves them. He is using them with just tweeters, no midrange, and from what I understand, it really jams. Think he has an AudioFrog subwoofer too. Awesome combo. I'm torn between keeping it 2 way in the front doors, or adding a midrange to the pillars. The DSR1 processor only has eight channels of output, and two are just for the subwoofer(s) So can either have 2 way plus rear fill, or 3 way. Kinda wish it had 12 channels, to retain the center channel and D pillar speakers, but oh well.


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Love the new vehicle! i just picked up a set of GS690 from John at JT audio and acc. Cant want to install them.


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## mechatron (Sep 26, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Mine is 2wd, so it will stay on road.  Are you going to lift yours and do new wheels and tires??
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice car mate 
I just bought an Ex-demo 2017 Grand Cherokee 4x4 turbo diesel and I thought exactly the same thing...went searching for a factory sub in the boot LOL


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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> ...*I have never used a 6x9, are there any down sides over a 6.5??*


Gives up a lot of cone area.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> No lift for ours, it has the Quadra-Lift air suspension to raise up for certain terrain, but heck yeah, these babies can tuck 32" tires no problem. Will be keeping the stock wheels, just changing tires.
> 
> But man, these WK2 can go sporty so easily. Especially yours, love the Altitude trim option, with the blacked out trim and tail lights, and the colored mesh grille pieces!
> 
> Hoping more will chime in on the 6x9 - HillBilly SQ has those AF GS690 and loves them. He is using them with just tweeters, no midrange, and from what I understand, it really jams. Think he has an AudioFrog subwoofer too. Awesome combo. I'm torn between keeping it 2 way in the front doors, or adding a midrange to the pillars. The DSR1 processor only has eight channels of output, and two are just for the subwoofer(s) So can either have 2 way plus rear fill, or 3 way. Kinda wish it had 12 channels, to retain the center channel and D pillar speakers, but oh well.


That Quadra-Lift air suspension is really nice... You basically have a built in lift/lowering on-demand.

The Altitude trim was mandatory for me, I didn't care about anything else but that... 

The GS690s are almost 3" deep, but if HillbillySQ has them install there must not be any clearance issues. I'm thinking 2 way should be sufficient and once it's done decide if I want to add rear fill or not. 



vietjdmboi said:


> Love the new vehicle! i just picked up a set of GS690 from John at JT audio and acc. Cant want to install them.


Thanks man! 



mechatron said:


> Nice car mate
> I just bought an Ex-demo 2017 Grand Cherokee 4x4 turbo diesel and I thought exactly the same thing...went searching for a factory sub in the boot LOL


Lol! The bass is surprisingly good, right?!


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## kanadian-kaos (Sep 12, 2010)

I thought my wife's had a subwoofer somewhere too. Looked everywhere. I then realized it is just the four 6x9 stock speakers which I believe are made by Alpine. The stock subwoofer location on the rear passenger side is good for a sealed 10.

It actually has a nice soundstage stock with the tweeters in the sails.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

kanadian-kaos said:


> I thought my wife's had a subwoofer somewhere too. Looked everywhere. I then realized it is just the four 6x9 stock speakers which I believe are made by Alpine. The stock subwoofer location on the rear passenger side is good for a sealed 10.
> 
> It actually has a nice soundstage stock with the tweeters in the sails.


Yep, not bad for a base factory system... One of the better ones I've heard. Regardless, it's all getting yanked out! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have 2 Zapco amps and a cheap little Kicker for rear fill:

ST-4XP = 4x85 watts
ST-1000XM = 1x1,000 watts

I am thinking about either getting the new 6 channel Zapco OR just adding the 2 channel ST-2X SQ, encase I add rear fill or decide to do a 3way... The 6 channel will give me 15 more watts per channel, and I did feel like I could have used a little more power in my previous car with this equipment...


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That six channel is the teets!!!


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## raresvintea (Sep 17, 2010)

It is so a improvement the sued from the seats? It keeps the bottom colder?


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## kanadian-kaos (Sep 12, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> I have 2 Zapco amps and a cheap little Kicker for rear fill:
> 
> ST-4XP = 4x85 watts
> ST-1000XM = 1x1,000 watts
> ...


15 watts is an unnoticeable gain in DB. Just get a matching 2 channel for the rear.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

raresvintea said:


> It is so a improvement the sued from the seats? It keeps the bottom colder?


Well, they are comfortable... I live in a very mild climate, so I might not have a qualified opinion of that.



kanadian-kaos said:


> 15 watts is an unnoticeable gain in DB. Just get a matching 2 channel for the rear.


Not even 6 x 15watts? 

Regardless your advise is probably quite sensible... (maybe I am just looking for excuses to get that big, new beast, Lol)


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Better pics... sorta



















I'm going with 1" spacers for the front wheels and 1.25" for the back.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> The GS690s are almost 3" deep, but if HillbillySQ has them install there must not be any clearance issues. I'm thinking 2 way should be sufficient and once it's done decide if I want to add rear fill or not.


Just wanted to say that I've heard Hibillys system, and the 690's are the real deal! Very smooth but with authority... dooo eeet!


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Fyi...those doors quite easily can be converted to fit jl zr800's. See my build for details on my 2013 srt


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

mumbles said:


> Just wanted to say that I've heard Hibillys system, and the 690's are the real deal! Very smooth but with authority... dooo eeet!


Haha! Ok, thanks for the tip!!





ndm said:


> Fyi...those doors quite easily can be converted to fit jl zr800's. See my build for details on my 2013 srt


Wowzer! 8" midbass... I'll check it out, thanks!

Hey, have you guys notice that on the under side of the GC's spare tire area (between the rear bumper and the rear wheels) there's another huge open space, looks like it could maybe even fit the spare tire... 
My point would be, remove the spare from the inside for room for audio and then come up with an exterior/under mount solution for the spare..?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I'm in to see where you go with the new build.


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## Rhinohawk (Jan 30, 2018)

Congrats on the ride - cool to see another new WK2 on here. I have a ‘18 TH - definitely the most quiet/comfortable Jeep I’ve ever owned. 
Current sound system as follows:
-DSR1 to bypass factory amp (CH4 harness)...output: 2-way active in doors + center + subs
-GS690 front doors
-GS10 tweets 
-FaitalPro 4FE35 center
-Currently testing subs/boxes...currently a Dayton 10 DVC with a passive radiator

Unfortunately the DSR1 maxes at 10ms delay...not enough to mess with rear fill. I’m looking to add a DSP Pro after the DSR1 to open up the system a bit, but for now the DSR1 does a pretty good job on its own. 

The audiofrogs sound excellent, and the 4fe35 pairs well. The HAT speakers seem to get great results in our Jeeps as well. Once I’m settled on a sub, I’m going to build a center enclosure for two 4” speakers, but for now the system provides far better clarity and staging than stock. 

Good call on the spacers. I’m running 1.25” all around and it looks more aggressive for sure. 

BradKnob’s build thread is the best/most complete WK2 build I’ve seen - lots of great pics/ideas.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> mumbles said:
> 
> 
> > Just wanted to say that I've heard Hibillys system, and the 690's are the real deal! Very smooth but with authority... dooo eeet! <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
> ...


The full sized spare wont fit....well at least on the srt it wont. My extra airspace occupies this space with my hemholtz resonators for drone reduction.

No spare. Have not had one in decades.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

8" midbass you say... well that is definitely a game changer.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

chithead said:


> 8" midbass you say... well that is definitely a game changer.


It was in my wk2...never going back to a 6.5 ever again! The added authority is spanktacular!


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## TomT (May 19, 2005)

Hmmm, maybe a couple of Audio Dvelopment W800 NEOs?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Rhinohawk said:


> Congrats on the ride - cool to see another new WK2 on here. I have a ‘18 TH - definitely the most quiet/comfortable Jeep I’ve ever owned.
> Current sound system as follows:
> -DSR1 to bypass factory amp (CH4 harness)...output: 2-way active in doors + center + subs
> -GS690 front doors
> ...


Another GS690s user!! Awesome! I know Brad's thread quite well...

Can I see a picture of yours with the spacers?

*Btw, I edited my second post cuz I forgot to mention I have two JL 10tw3s wired to 1 ohm, in a sealed box that might actually fit in the Jeep...*

They are a little low on output for what I'd like in the Jeep, but I might see how they sound before I rule them out.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ndm said:


> The full sized spare wont fit....well at least on the srt it wont. My extra airspace occupies this space with my hemholtz resonators for drone reduction.
> 
> No spare. Have not had one in decades.


I have often gone without a spare, too. It's not a necessity for me either... It was kinda just a thought. 
I have the V6 and it doesn't have that extra piece of pipe running across. It's wide open forward to the frame...

In your pics, the 8" doesn't even look like much of a stretch to fit. Great looking set-up, btw. Were there any depth issues with the door panel going back on??


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> ndm said:
> 
> 
> > The full sized spare wont fit....well at least on the srt it wont. My extra airspace occupies this space with my hemholtz resonators for drone reduction.
> ...


No issues at all. I think the depth was like 4 3/8inch. The mounting ring must be close to the same level as the factory plastic mounting surface. Otherwise you will have the excursion hitting the door panel.

The pipe you see is my custom resonators i think. The support behind the pipes should be present in all of them.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Not sure if I am going to do rear fill... But if I do there is plenty of space in the trunk to do some pods.
> 
> I think I could talk myself into loosing the spare, it wouldn't be the first time I was spare-less... Honestly, I have never had an actual flat tire in my life. A couple times I have had a nail in the tire, but was able to make it to the tire shop. Maybe having one of those small compressors on board could be cool...
> 
> ...


That's gonna look BADASS!


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## autokraftgt (Aug 28, 2012)

That's a good looking Jeep David Ram!! I like it! 
Hope you're doing well pal...it's been a while since our old Ram days when you were asking all those NEWBE questions haha 
Good luck with this build sir


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’m feeling you guys should get rid of your current vehicles, and come back to the “ Ram side “ lol.


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## Rhinohawk (Jan 30, 2018)

Here’s a couple I had on my phone - I’ll take a better tire shot later tonight. This is with the factory 18s and the Kevlar tires. I pulled the KO2s off my last truck before I sold it, so if I can find some wheels I’ll toss those on. Hemi brake kit + quadralift really limit the aftermarket options.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Rhinohawk said:


> Here’s a couple I had on my phone - I’ll take a better tire shot later tonight. This is with the factory 18s and the Kevlar tires. I pulled the KO2s off my last truck before I sold it, so if I can find some wheels I’ll toss those on. Hemi brake kit + quadralift really limit the aftermarket options.


Thanks for that!!! The stance and the offset looks perfect on yours with 1.25"... 

I'm going to do 1" in front and 1.25" in back, on mine there is exactly a .25" difference.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

autokraftgt said:


> That's a good looking Jeep David Ram!! I like it!
> Hope you're doing well pal...it's been a while since our old Ram days when you were asking all those NEWBE questions haha
> Good luck with this build sir


Yep, it's been a while... Little did I know I was developing a taste for something that would be a huge part of my life very quickly!



Coppertone said:


> I’m feeling you guys should get rid of your current vehicles, and come back to the “ Ram side “ lol.


We had a lot of fun with the Rams on RF, for sure!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Hey, the "Sport" mode in this thing sure feels and sounds good, and the GC is definitely much faster than my JK was, with the same engine!
I would attribute most of that to the ZF transmission and completely different drive train, of course.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> Yep, it's been a while... Little did I know I was developing a taste for something that would be a huge part of my life very quickly!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

Heyyyy.... Nice ride!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> Heyyyy.... Nice ride!


Heyyyy Mr. Garlic! Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right?!  

Thanks!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Heyyyy Mr. Garlic! Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right?!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Lol! Not gonna lie, I’m jealous u have a clean slate to start with. Can’t wait to see what u do. I need the motivation to get back to working on mine


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> Lol! Not gonna lie, I’m jealous u have a clean slate to start with. Can’t wait to see what u do. I need the motivation to get back to working on mine


I'm looking forward to digging into this thing!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm trying to see if I can re-use this box. It's really well built - beautiful 3/4", 13 ply, void free, BB/BB, baltic birch plywood, etc., blah, blah blah. I really took my time making it and it's an absolute rock!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Oh heck yeah! I'd try to reuse that bad boy too.


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

Have u checked to see if it would fit under the plastic floor in the back..... meaning cut out the walls that surround the spare and slide it under there?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> Have u checked to see if it would fit under the plastic floor in the back..... meaning cut out the walls that surround the spare and slide it under there?


That is what I would like to do with it... I haven't really torn into the trunk yet.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I don't know if you guys do this, but on my car insurance I add an additional $10,000 coverage for the audio... It's only about $5 per month.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> I don't know if you guys do this, but on my car insurance I add an additional $10,000 coverage for the audio... It's only about $5 per month.


I do the same. My wife works in insurance (commercial lines), so she makes sure that we get any modifications/additions to our cars covered.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ndm said:


> ...





chithead said:


> ...





bradknob said:


> ...


*Where are you guys pulling power cable through the firewall??*


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> *Where are you guys pulling power cable through the firewall??*




My battery is under the passenger seat


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> My battery is under the passenger seat


No ****?! Had I known that, I would have been celebrating that fact a few days ago! That sure makes it easy!

Then again, maybe I should have popped the hood before I bought it... :blush:


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

bradknob said:


> Have u checked to see if it would fit under the plastic floor in the back..... meaning cut out the walls that surround the spare and slide it under there?


The plastic floor just removes with 2 screws front and rear.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> I'm trying to see if I can re-use this box. It's really well built - beautiful 3/4", 13 ply, void free, BB/BB, baltic birch plywood, etc., blah, blah blah. I really took my time making it and it's an absolute rock!


Hello!

For christ sake. Did you not notice that I fit two 15 inch Jbl GTIs plus four jl hd amps and wire....the helix dsp is where the factory sub used to be.

You have an assload of space back there. Just sayin!?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Another GS690s user!! Awesome! I know Brad's thread quite well...
> 
> Can I see a picture of yours with the spacers?
> 
> ...


Plus one from another happy GS690 user, they are nice speakers and in my Crosstrek they were an easy drop in using a set of speaker baffles from crutchfield. I also went with the stinger fast rings.

Good luck with your install it looks to be a great build!!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Battery under the passenger seat does help indeed. Just ordered 10 feet of 1/0 and 5/16" rings. Looks like that should be enough to get from there to the tire well. The connection on the stock battery terminal also appears to be a rather small post, thinking that 5/16" should work. Will let you know for sure soon!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Check under your driver's side seat, should have an empty compartment there


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

chithead said:


> Check under your driver's side seat, should have an empty compartment there




That’s where my processor lives.


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## Iamsecond (Jan 3, 2017)

Men, maybe I missed it, but where did you put the mids? I know the tweets up top in the door and the zr800 in stock location. I have a 15 jgc with bass system. Mine is getting a lift, not a drop. I put on the leveling kit and that made a huge difference but I’m going to remove it and install the 2 inch from rro when I get the time. Haven’t started the system yet. I have to buy a Dodge Ram promaster for the wife’s business first. (And that’s going to be a blast to put a system in, can’t wait) I was getting 26 mpg before I put bigger tires on it.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Man, you guys are doing all my homework for me!! 

I am going to order all the wiring. I have been using Knukonceptz Karma speaker wire and it's great quality, but so thick and hard to strip...










I think I'll switch over to Stinger Pro series 14 gauge (I just used some in my home audio set-up)... It's great wire and much easier to work with. It's all getting TechFlex anyways, so it should have plenty of protection.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That's what I'm using, all Stinger Pro wiring, but went with JL Audio RCAs, only because of having the JL amps. 

Thinking about making my own RCAs actually, just for poots and giggles.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> That's what I'm using, all Stinger Pro wiring, but went with JL Audio RCAs, only because of having the JL amps.
> 
> Thinking about making my own RCAs actually, just for poots and giggles.


Haha! Yes, and not to mention that matching RCAs actually improve the sound by 13%, it's scientifically proven!  

I already have all the RCAs I need, they are Stinger 8000 series...


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Oh heck yeah! Those are beautiful!!!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

I use the stinger 6000 series and have had to replace 2 channels already and a hear a sporadic static sound in my passenger tweet, which leads me to believe a 3rd is going out. I started making my own but never got around to finishing....


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

So here are my thoughts so far:

1. Order AudioFrog GS690s (and sell my GS60s)

2. Keep the GB10s and make them fit in the sails... 

3. Keep the JL 10TW3s in the box and see if it will fit the way I want it to (if it won't fit, sell the subs and do something completely different like a Sundown 10" X series)


I really liked using the perforated aluminum for the amp rack, so I'll probably repeat that but give it a little design twist...


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## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

i charge extra if you use this crap. :laugh::laugh:

andy makes a GB10OEM stripped down version of the GB10 which makes it really small to fit into oem locations.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I thought you guys would get a kick out of this... 

I had a nice little work bench set up, but I had to rip it all apart to fit the Jeep! :laugh:

My garage is TINY!





















I am going to build a new work bench and redo the whole garage this coming week.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

jtaudioacc said:


> i charge extra if you use this crap. :laugh::laugh:
> 
> andy makes a GB10OEM stripped down version of the GB10 which makes it really small to fit into oem locations.


Lol

Would he take my non-stripped-down version in on trade?!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Lol
> 
> 
> 
> Would he take my non-stripped-down version in on trade?!




The regular version fits perfect in the sail panel with just a little sanding on the opening...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> The regular version fits perfect in the sail panel with just a little sanding on the opening...


Wow, no ****, that IS perfect! Thanks!

This could be my easiest install to date... I love this Jeep already!


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Iamsecond said:


> Men, maybe I missed it, but where did you put the mids? I know the tweets up top in the door and the zr800 in stock location.


My first version of my system had 6.5 in the custom kick panels, 6.5 in the door and tweet in factory location.
2nd version had 6.5 in the door, Gb25 in the factory tweet location (custom) and tweet in the pillar. Never finished it.
3rd version has tweet in factory location, GB25 in custom pillar and zr800 in the door.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> No lift for ours, it has the Quadra-Lift air suspension to raise up for certain terrain, but heck yeah, these babies can tuck 32" tires no problem. Will be keeping the stock wheels, just changing tires.
> 
> But man, these WK2 can go sporty...





bradknob said:


> Heyyyy.... Nice ride!


Are you guys on Jeep garage.org? Or is there a better JGC forum?


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Are you guys on Jeep garage.org? Or is there a better JGC forum?




I used to be, rarely ever visit now. Seems like THE jeep forum though. 

Started a thread but never gained any attention so I gave up. Never really felt the vibe there like I did on ram forum or here.


Ps, started on a lil sumtin sumtin on my jeep. Will prob update my thread soon. A hacksaw was involved


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> I used to be, rarely ever visit now. Seems like THE jeep forum though.
> 
> Started a thread but never gained any attention so I gave up. Never really felt the vibe there like I did on ram forum or here.
> 
> ...


I like the sounds of this ^^^

It does seem to be a good forum, but it is a little slow in terms of activity...


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Most of the Jeep Forums I've been on seem to be Wrangler oriented. Not that it's a bad thing, as we have a 2016 JK too 

JeepGarage.org is a decent place to get info for sure, but this is where I get a lot of information from - WK2Jeeps.com - 2011-2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee menu page


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

ndm said:


> Hello!
> 
> For christ sake. Did you not notice that I fit two 15 inch Jbl GTIs plus four jl hd amps and wire....the helix dsp is where the factory sub used to be.
> 
> You have an assload of space back there. Just sayin!?


I agree :2thumbsup:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Are you JGC owners needing to do a lot of sound deadening?? The more I drive this thing the more I notice how very quite it is... It is more quiet then the Mazda was AFTER a full sound deadening treatment.
While cruising, there is zero engine noise and only a tiny bit of tire noise (which would most likely be completely gone with better tires).


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> The regular version fits perfect in the sail panel with just a little sanding on the opening...


Brad, do the sail panels come off without taking the door panel off??


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Brad, do the sail panels come off without taking the door panel off??




Nope, door panel has to come off
First.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Where did you guys connect your remote power wire??


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

The amp replacement module I'm using has a remote turn on wire with the harness. Are you thinking about the PAC AmpPro, or just tapping the wires after the factory amplifier?


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Where did you guys connect your remote power wire??




Before I got the amppro, I found acc 12v under the driver seat. Was easy since my processor is under there.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> The amp replacement module I'm using has a remote turn on wire with the harness. Are you thinking about the PAC AmpPro, or just tapping the wires after the factory amplifier?


A couple builds back, I started using a DAP as source and leaving the factory H/U alone... I'll never go back to trying to get a good signal out of a factory h/u or worse yet putting an aftermarket one in.  

One of my Fiio X3s will be the main source connect via coax to the DSP, but I might pull signal from the front door speakers and connect them to the high level inputs on the DSP for the rare occasion that I want to listen to XM radio. I could make a separate tune for that connection, so I can easily toggle between them with the DSPs remote...

Does the base system have an external amp??







bradknob said:


> Before I got the amppro, I found acc 12v under the driver seat. Was easy since my processor is under there.


That makes sense and it's an easy spot to work with...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Unbelievably, everything nearly fits from the Mazda! 

I will trim down about a 1/16 of an inch off of the sides of the sub box with my router so that it will drop all the way down...











Obviously, the amp rack doesn't contour to the Jeep, but a simple trim panel would take care of that...


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Unbelievably, everything nearly fits from the Mazda!
> 
> I will trim down about a 1/16 of an inch off of the sides of the sub box with my router so that it will drop all the way down...
> 
> ...


Its amazing all the extra space down there huh?
Im still scratching my head at wow all my equipment fit.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ndm said:


> Its amazing all the extra space down there huh?
> Im still scratching my head at wow all my equipment fit.


It is huge for sure... 


Does anyone know what that sensor is that is attached to the plastic liner?? I unplugged it and removed the liner and now the power liftgate won't close...


----------



## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Does anyone know what that sensor is that is attached to the plastic liner?? I unplugged it and removed the liner and now the power trunk won't close...


Um, guessing it's for the power liftgate.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

metanium said:


> Um, guessing it's for the power liftgate.


I figured it has some connection... Lol

Just trying to figure out it's purpose, because I will need to chop up the plastic liner.
I removed the sensor from the liner and the liftgate won't close like that.


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is awesome! Will be very unique for sure if you keep with that style for the amps and subs.


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> metanium said:
> 
> 
> > Um, guessing it's for the power liftgate. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
> ...


I think I just attached it back to the metal in the same area......

Yup. Just saw the pic and I used self tappers to the metal.


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> metanium said:
> 
> 
> > Um, guessing it's for the power liftgate. <img src="http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
> ...


Screw the sensor into the metal near where it was previously.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

These big beauties came in today! They sure make the GS60s look small... 

*BIG thanks to JT (JT Audio & Accessories) for always being awesome to deal with!!! *


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Them some big booty beauties!!!

In a good way


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

DavidRam said:


> These big beauties came in today! They sure make the GS60s look small...
> 
> *BIG thanks to JT (JT Audio & Accessories) for always being awesome to deal with!!! *


John is GREAT person!! Cant wait to install my GS690's


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I started sound deadening the trunk area.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I won't need to do much in the way of deadening, because this thing comes very well done from the factory, imho... All of the hollow spaces are filled with expanding foam, there is an MLV-ish like material over another layer of insulation throughout most of the interior and it is probably the quietest vehicle I have owned. 

I'll definitely do the doors really well... And I'll go around and rattle proof it as needed.











Btw, I like using the Sounskins product, but I tried the Parts Express Sonic Barrier this time and it seems identical at almost half the price. 
Too bad for Soundskins! Lol


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Here’s mine ready to go in. Need to trim down the foam once I see what I’m working with.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> Here’s mine ready to go in. Need to trim down the foam once I see what I’m working with.


Did you print adapters or anything for them??


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Nuh uh. John made the adapters for me.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Loving the perforated aluminum amp rack!!! LOL


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> Loving the perforated aluminum amp rack!!! LOL


Lol!

That freakin thing keeps showing up in my builds!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Got a little done... 

0 gauge power cable, KnuKonceptz Kolossus OFC, run from battery to trunk.

Started carpeting... I decided to leave all of the factory stuff out (except for the narrow trim piece that covers the latch), so I will have to cover everything with deadener, carpet and diy trim panels. 

This layer of carpet won't be visible, so I didn't try to make it all that pretty...


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> I figured it has some connection... Lol
> 
> Just trying to figure out it's purpose, because I will need to chop up the plastic liner.
> I removed the sensor from the liner and the liftgate won't close like that.


That's part of the circuit for the "passive entry" or proximity system. I found out the hard way that a lot of the key fob functionality doesn't work right if you forget to reconnect that. 

I don't have the auto lift gate in my Laredo, but I found that the vehicle always thought my key fob was in the vehicle when that was disconnected and I couldn't lock my doors with the button on the handle or utilize passive entry to unlock them.



So many WK2s here! I love it - makes me want to make mine better. I'm also running the AF GS690s and GB10s in the factory locations. I replaced the head unit with an aftermarket kit from Scosche that works pretty well. I'll try to provide a photo of that later if anyone is interested.


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Got a little done...
> 
> 0 gauge power cable, KnuKonceptz Kolossus OFC, run from battery to trunk.
> 
> ...


Looks like you have the V6 and auto stop/start (based on the auxiliary battery). I'd advise you to do a little testing before you button everything up here. Some amps don't behave so well when the voltage on the main (starter) battery drops during engine starts. I ended up wiring to the auxiliary battery, which serves to keep systems functional when the engine is off during the auto stop part of this feature. If I didn't do this, some of my older amplifiers would restart every time the vehicle restarted.

I've been monitoring my voltage pretty regularly and I haven't seen any issues with this, even when I'm listening at relatively high volume.

I just know how much it would suck to get all of your wiring buttoned up neatly only to find that you need to utilize the terminal on the other battery because of this "feature."


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

chesapeakesoja said:


> .... I replaced the head unit with an aftermarket kit from Scosche that works pretty well. I'll try to provide a photo of that later if anyone is interested.



Interested!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chesapeakesoja said:


> Looks like you have the V6 and auto stop/start (based on the auxiliary battery). I'd advise you to do a little testing before you button everything up here. Some amps don't behave so well when the voltage on the main (starter) battery drops during engine starts. I ended up wiring to the auxiliary battery, which serves to keep systems functional when the engine is off during the auto stop part of this feature. If I didn't do this, some of my older amplifiers would restart every time the vehicle restarted.
> 
> I've been monitoring my voltage pretty regularly and I haven't seen any issues with this, even when I'm listening at relatively high volume.
> 
> I just know how much it would suck to get all of your wiring buttoned up neatly only to find that you need to utilize the terminal on the other battery because of this "feature."


Thanks for all the info! I'll definitely test it... I was just thinking how funny it would be if the music started and stopped with the engine at every stop light! Lol

I disable the start/stop every time I start the Jeep, I don't care for that feature much.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*RIP - Sergio Marchionne - he was an excellent ceo*


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

Kit with Alpine head unit









Booting up









Fully booted (Scosche boots before the Alpine and the Alpine is pretty quick)









Controls for some basic vehicle functions that go through the factory radio (others exist in the "SET" menu. The only one missing is auto start/stop!)









Fit and finish match the factory panels really well. You use the factory vents and chrome trim.

The kit comes with EVERYTHING needed to retain everything EXCEPT factory Sirius/XM (need an antenna adapter/tuner) and factory Bluetooth. 

My factory Bluetooth was spotty anyhow, so I prefer the Alpine solution. Backup camera is integrated with an output to the aftermarket head unit's screen, factory guide lines are retained, steering wheel controls work flawlessly, etc. Even came with the antenna adapter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chesapeakesoja said:


> Kit with Alpine head unit
> 
> 
> Controls for some basic vehicle functions that go through the factory radio (others exist in the "SET" menu. The only one missing is auto start/stop!)
> ...


That's really cool.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Haven't been on here much lately because of my one track mind being glued to my other hobby (fishing). Nice ride. The gs690/gb10 combo is an excellent sounding setup. My current cross points are 70 and 2500 but the x9's can play lower. 60hz was good but 50hz sounded a little wonky. The 6x9's will drop right into the factory holes but the baskets will need some massaging to get the mounting screws to mount up because the holes don't line up that well. I didn't use adapter rings even though I probably should have. The doors didn't need much deadening at all. Just a layer on the panel and some on the plastic carrier plate. And some on the outer skin to make it THUD on the tap test. As stated the gb10's mount right up and look way more factory than the factory tweets. So far I'm impressed with the factory locations. Staging, imaging, width, and depth is great and speaker locations disappear once dialed in. I don't see any reason to complicate things with a dedicated midrange unless you just want to do it. The gs690/gb10 combo does a great job on its own. Took some aggressive eq work to whip tonality into shape but that's pretty standard practice for all vehicles it seems.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Haven't been on here much lately because of my one track mind being glued to my other hobby (fishing). Nice ride. The gs690/gb10 combo is an excellent sounding setup. My current cross points are 70 and 2500 but the x9's can play lower. 60hz was good but 50hz sounded a little wonky. The 6x9's will drop right into the factory holes but the baskets will need some massaging to get the mounting screws to mount up because the holes don't line up that well. I didn't use adapter rings even though I probably should have. The doors didn't need much deadening at all. Just a layer on the panel and some on the plastic carrier plate. And some on the outer skin to make it THUD on the tap test. As stated the gb10's mount right up and look way more factory than the factory tweets. So far I'm impressed with the factory locations. Staging, imaging, width, and depth is great and speaker locations disappear once dialed in. I don't see any reason to complicate things with a dedicated midrange unless you just want to do it. The gs690/gb10 combo does a great job on its own. Took some aggressive eq work to whip tonality into shape but that's pretty standard practice for all vehicles it seems.


Thanks for your input and comments! I am very impressed with the level of sound deadening that comes from the factory in this thing...


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

RUH ROW!!! Things just got interesting!!!!! How much did that Scosche kit set you back? My factory screen is OK but it has some quirks that bug the hell out of me ever since the automatic update happened. Would love to go back to a Pioneer headunit since I really liked the cheap double din 1700 I had in my Ram


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

chesapeakesoja said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks! U might have made my mind up on which route to take. That looks much better than I expected, and was worried about the ac panel
Looking too cheesy.


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Haven't been on here much lately because of my one track mind being glued to my other hobby (fishing). Nice ride. The gs690/gb10 combo is an excellent sounding setup. My current cross points are 70 and 2500 but the x9's can play lower. 60hz was good but 50hz sounded a little wonky. The 6x9's will drop right into the factory holes but the baskets will need some massaging to get the mounting screws to mount up because the holes don't line up that well. I didn't use adapter rings even though I probably should have. The doors didn't need much deadening at all. Just a layer on the panel and some on the plastic carrier plate. And some on the outer skin to make it THUD on the tap test. As stated the gb10's mount right up and look way more factory than the factory tweets. So far I'm impressed with the factory locations. Staging, imaging, width, and depth is great and speaker locations disappear once dialed in. I don't see any reason to complicate things with a dedicated midrange unless you just want to do it. The gs690/gb10 combo does a great job on its own. Took some aggressive eq work to whip tonality into shape but that's pretty standard practice for all vehicles it seems.


Looks like ill go with this gs690/gb10 combo first and if anything I can always add a gb25 to the mix.


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## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

It was about $500, but given the fit, finish, and integration I don't think that's too awful. There were no additional modules to buy for steering wheel controls, rear view camera integration, CANBUS integration (no Maestro modules) etc.


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## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

Also, maybe some of the other WK2 guys can chime in, but I did some CLD deadening on the doors though I didn't need a ton.

The issue I had was trying to install MLV and CCF. The way the interior panel meets the door, you can kind of kiss those goodbye - at least as far as the philosophy of having an unbroken layer of MLV goes. It simply wouldn't fit without cutting some large holes in it or having multiple sections. At that point, I wasn't sure it was worth it. 

One thing I didn't do (and I'll probably go back and do in the near future) is deaden those factory tweeter locations a bit and put a small strip of CCF or something along the bottom of that trim panel because the main door trim panel gives me some slight resonance where the two meet. I can press on either panel and get it to stop. 

The only other noise I've got from my doors is the little trim panel behind the interior door handle. That bothered me more with the factory speakers as it's nowhere near loud enough to be heard over the upgraded speakers. It's something to consider as you treat your doors though.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I decided to re-do the amp rack, so I started working on the new one:


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## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

Where did you source that aluminum? I like the concept.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chesapeakesoja said:


> Where did you source that aluminum? I like the concept.


Ebay, here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-Alumin...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It will be part of a two tier amp rack, kinda like the one in my last build but with a few changes... I guess a bonus is that it will help keep the amps cool.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

A little more progress on the amp rack. Btw, I love this angle finder thingy!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Got some parts in to begin fixing the stance on this Jeep... 

SRT springs, SRT rear sway bar and end links, Bora wheel spacers 1" for front, 1.25" for the rear...


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is awesome! You are trucking right along with this


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> That is awesome! You are trucking right along with this


Thank you!!

I am not going to put a layer of frosted plexi under the aluminum, like I did on my last build... I will leave it open and make the wiring and lighting as neat as possible, as it will be visible through the holes.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Now that will be killer. Just picked up some older NEXT amps, and they have a bit of mesh down the middle, exposing part of the board and components inside. To me, that is absolutely awesome, and can't wait to see it done with your amp rack!!!


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice amp rack!


----------



## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

nice to see another wk2 on here. that's a sweet looking altitude too. 

what was the deciding factor for ditching the uconnect 8.4 for aftermarket? and, do all factory functions work well with the scosche kit?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> nice to see another wk2 on here. that's a sweet looking altitude too.
> 
> what was the deciding factor for ditching the uconnect 8.4 for aftermarket? and, do all factory functions work well with the scosche kit?


Thank you sir!

I won't be replacing the head unit, I'll just be using a digital audio player as source instead of a head unit... The factory hu will remain fully functional.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Amp rack is almost done... sorry for the ****ty pics.


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Spectacular!!! Excited to see this progress.


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow!


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

brett said:


> nice to see another wk2 on here. that's a sweet looking altitude too.
> 
> 
> 
> what was the deciding factor for ditching the uconnect 8.4 for aftermarket? and, do all factory functions work well with the scosche kit?




I replaced my factory head unit with the Scosche kit. I'll be happy to answer any questions you have, but PM me so we don't hijack this thread. 

If others are interested, let me know and I'll start a short discussion thread about it rather than private messaging.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Amp rack is almost done... sorry for the ****ty pics.




That's looking awesome! Makes me ashamed of the "rack" I built for my amps and processor. Looks like I have done work to do and, thanks to your work, some inspiration. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chesapeakesoja said:


> That's looking awesome! Makes me ashamed of the "rack" I built for my amps and processor. Looks like I have done work to do and, thanks to your work, some inspiration.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you!! 

Where some of the corners of the rack cantilever and look a little unstable or flimsy, there will be mounting points in the vehicle which will add support and keep it perfectly flat and level... I will be able to sit on it when it's done! Lol


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Not audio, but I installed the wheel spacers and now they are flush with the fenders... much nicer stance imho. 

I need to get the lowering springs in to close that huge gap.


----------



## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

looks good dude. the springs should help as well. did the spacers affect the ride/handling at all?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> looks good dude. the springs should help as well. did the spacers affect the ride/handling at all?


Thanks!

I'd like to think a wider track of 2.5" in the rear and 2" in the front, should affect cornering a little, but I haven't driven it much yet... There are no negative effects, though. 
The springs should make a very noticeable difference, both in looks and handling. I am going to put the rear springs in first and then drive around for a couple weeks before I put the front ones in.


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'd like to think a wider track of 2.5" in the rear and 2" in the front, should affect cornering a little, but I haven't driven it much yet... There are no negative effects, though.
> The springs should make a very noticeable difference, both in looks and handling. I am going to put the rear springs in first and then drive around for a couple weeks before I put the front ones in.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


>


Yes, and that too.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Got a little more done today... Drilled two more holes in the Jeep for rivnuts to secure everything. 












Finished up the lower deck of the amp rack. 











Everything fits and lines up perfectly so far... :surprised: :surprised: :surprised:












I'm waiting for a bunch of Techflex and then I can wire up the amp rack, and move on to the doors.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have come up with a concept of how I am going to house the DAP, DSP remote and the bass knob...











It would sit at arms length from the arm rest and be mounted to the passenger side of the center console below the seat and also (maybe) secured to the arm rest with one of those tablet car mounts...












Does anyone have a CNC router for aluminum, or am I gonna have to do this by hand?! Lol


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That will be awesome for sure!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> That will be awesome for sure!!!


In concept, yes! Lol

I would wrap the back in vinyl to match the dash, and the aluminum plate would be brushed with polished edges to sorta match the chrome trim from the factory...


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Does anyone have a CNC router for aluminum, or am I gonna have to do this by hand?! Lol


My brother has one. Though, it is set up as a plasma cutter 99% of the time. I'm still waiting him to convert it back over to the router for some of my own parts.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

^^^ I would love to own one...


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> ^^^ I would love to own one...


Me, too! :laugh:

They make some pretty cool stuff. 

https://www.facebook.com/hutsellsplasmawerks/ if you want to check them out. They're also on Instagram.

He'll also be using the plasma cutter to cut my amplifier mounts for my amp rack.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Me, too! :laugh:
> 
> They make some pretty cool stuff.
> 
> ...


Very nice... That's some high end work


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Amp rack is mostly done


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)




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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Wow! I love builds with custom made ideas.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice work!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Progress


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

looking good dude


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The humble beginnings of the DAP, DSP remote and bass knob housing...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Very humble beginning!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is awesome! Very clean style already - making that Jeep look goooooood


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm working on a little momentary on/of button that would be mounted to the housing and turn the Fiio off and on by simply hitting the Fiio's button (no electrical connection to the Fiio, just mechanical)














In the past I have left a cutout to fit my fat finger through, but this time I want a cleaner look...


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## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

That's going to be slick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I think I am going to add a BT dongle to the dsp, in the unlikely event I want to use my phone as source... 

Like this, connected to the MiniDSPs line level. I can give it it's own position on the remote and tune accordingly...
MBT-RX - Marine Audio - Amplifiers & Electronics - Bluetooth® Accessories - JL Audio


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I got the faceplate mostly done. That's 1/8" thick, so LOTS of grinding, filing, sanding... Just need to smooth out some areas and then sand it with a finer grit.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

^^^^ Dammit..that is SICK !!! and you need to know that I have NEVER used that word as an adjective before!!!

I have to ask, how did you mill/drill the square holes ??


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> ^^^^ Dammit..that is SICK !!! and you need to know that I have NEVER used that word as an adjective before!!!
> 
> I have to ask, how did you mill/drill the square holes ??


Lol. Thank you!

Drilled round holes and filed from smaller to larger with square files, until I got the desired size... It was tedious.


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

Props bro! Came out awesome


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Also got the little push button done... Just cut the aluminum tube, the spring and the barrel nut down to size. It works great and allows me to adjust the length/depth, so it fits nice and snug


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

this is why i love this site, good job man!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys!!


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## Reid1980 (Feb 17, 2018)

For the Zapco amps did you have to take the cover off one and reverse it to get that specific orientation of the power wire/rca's? When I initially installed mine i wanted to reverse them but wasnt sure if it was possible.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Reid1980 said:


> For the Zapco amps did you have to take the cover off one and reverse it to get that specific orientation of the power wire/rca's? When I initially installed mine i wanted to reverse them but wasnt sure if it was possible.


You sir, have a good attention to detail! Actually, I have been waiting for someone to say something about that... 

I did it the easy (or hard) way and took the logo off, cut the tabs and glued it back on.


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## Reid1980 (Feb 17, 2018)

Gotcha. Looks really good. Im about to make an amp rack for my Zapcos and wish I could use something like that for ventilation but I have no way to cut it. So I think im just going to make risers at the ends and one in the middle for support.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Reid1980 said:


> Gotcha. Looks really good. Im about to make an amp rack for my Zapcos and wish I could use something like that for ventilation but I have no way to cut it. So I think im just going to make risers at the ends and one in the middle for support.


Thanks!

I have had this idea for an amp rack that I want to try sometime... It would involve square or round aluminum tubing in various lengths (heights), and they would raise the amps up like they are on stilts. They would be bolted with really long bolts to a wood (or metal) base. It would be really simple but really cool to look at, imho.


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## Hubbard 0 (Jun 20, 2018)

Nice looking project. I'm getting lots of inspiration from your work.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Everything fits!


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

My CNC can’t get tolerances that tight, lol. Awesome


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> My CNC can’t get tolerances that tight, lol. Awesome


Thanks!

I like it tight! 


Btw, the volume knob is not going to be that tall... I'm going to chop about a third of it off.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I did **** up the edge a little... I accidentally nicked it with the grinder. It really bothers me.  :blush:

I am planning on trying to repair it by putting a blob of solder on/in it and then sanding it down... We'll see if that works. Fortunately, it isn't an exposed edge.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

^^^ OCD kicking in just a little too much?? JK/LOL

what about using a file to add a back bevel to the plate that would eliminate the nick??

and maybe even reduce the size of the plywood by a few mm so you can add some sort of binding/edging to finish it ??


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> ^^^ OCD kicking in just a little too much?? JK/LOL
> 
> what about using a file to add a back bevel to the plate that would eliminate the nick??
> 
> and maybe even reduce the size of the plywood by a few mm so you can add some sort of binding/edging to finish it ??


That is a good idea... But I spent so much time getting it all to line up as is, though.  Once the wood part is painted, it should be dead nuts even. I think the solder should fill the chip, it is so small...

Oh, and yes, my OCD is severe! :blush:


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Right! You are killing it DR!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The faceplate is done, though I was not able to fix the nick... Below is the arm that will be bolted to the center console. 

The faceplate will be bolted to the wood housing with some fancy, chrome, socket head cap screws I found at OSH (which is sadly closing/going out of business).


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I cut the volume knob down. I realize this is getting a little boring... :blush:

On another note, I go through about one Dremel a year, because I abuse the **** out of them. I have thought about building a miniature lathe out of a Dremel...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Steel mounting bracket is done and installed... I wrapped it with thin automotive carpet. I like using a mix of materials - the natural aluminum faceplate, on top of the black painted wood housing, attached to the carpeted bracket. 

I left extra length on the bracket on the part inside the console, just in case I need to do more to stabilize it once it's all in... If not I'll cut that off.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

unrelated, do you have a seat cover on the passenger seat bottom?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> unrelated, do you have a seat cover on the passenger seyat bottom?


Yep, I mainly use that seat for stuff rather than people, so it's a little protection.
It's a cheap, $20 Chinese ebay cover, but it matches and fits incredibly well, imho


----------



## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

right, that's a good idea. it looks quite good actually. but i was like, wait, only the overland on up has piping, so it caught my eye.


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## Reid1980 (Feb 17, 2018)

So question on connecting the FIIO to the dsp. Are you going to headphone jack out to rca in? Or were you planning on just streaming the audio? It would be nice to bypass a head unit and just use a player like that but Id want a wired connection.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Reid1980 said:


> So question on connecting the FIIO to the dsp. Are you going to headphone jack out to rca in? Or were you planning on just streaming the audio? It would be nice to bypass a head unit and just use a player like that but Id want a wired connection.



Wired, digital out on the player to digital in on the dsp (the cable is TRRS 3.5mm on one end and coax on the other)... 

Also, I will have a second input via a Bluetooth receiver that will connect via line level on the DSP, and will have a second tune that I can switch between on the dsp remote. 

This is my go-to source. I never want to mess with these new, complex head units ever again and I don't like the look of most aftermarket head units...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

done


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Does any one think the volume knob is too big?? I do have a smaller one on hand...


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

can we see pics of what the smaller one would look like?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> can we see pics of what the smaller one would look like?


I'll have to take some pics...


----------



## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

the knob does look big, but honestly, it's functional. i suspect if it were shorter/shallower that it wouldn't be as easy to handle. and yes, everything else is fairly flush, so the knob does stick out, but i don't mind it. i think you're at the point where you may be sacrificing function for form, which i'm not a fan of. i say only go shorter if it's still easy to handle.

regardless, this looks better than i was expecting.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

I agree that the knob is a bit too large...always though that, just didn't want to rain on your otherwise beautiful parade.


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

Looks great!

Can we see a mock up with it in the location you plan on putting it? Maybe the knob isn't so big when its in the vehicle.

Also, can you use tamper proof screws like these instead of the allen screws?
https://www.fastenright.com/security-fasteners/2-hole-pan-security-machine-screw/2h01


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks for the replies, guys!!

Here are pics of the smaller (diameter) knob. It is obviously too tall, but that is easy to cut down...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Mounted in the Jeep with the larger diameter knob... It doesn't look as big mounted. I'll probably cut down the smaller knob and try both. 

It aims directly at the drivers head. 





































Sorry for the low quality pics, lighting was terrible at that angle...


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

i kinda like the smaller diameter knob better. it gives similar space between the buttons below it and maintains some consistency.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

EmptyKim said:


> Looks great!
> 
> Can we see a mock up with it in the location you plan on putting it? Maybe the knob isn't so big when its in the vehicle.
> 
> ...


Those are cool screws, I hadn't thought about them... Though, I searched long and hard for those allens - they are actually chrome, so they match the chrome accents in the Jeep. 
I decided not to polish any part of the faceplate (for now), so I just bought the screws for a touch of chrome... I had planned on polishing the edges to look like the Jeeps... I know, my ocd is a *****! :blush:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> i kinda like the smaller diameter knob better. it gives similar space between the buttons below it and maintains some consistency.


I agree... 

Small button it is. Sometimes size matters, but in the opposite direction! Lol


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have to add, one of the hardest parts of making this thing was getting the side-mounted bass knob lined up, spaced properly and working smoothly... I am very happy I went with this concept as it keeps the whole housing much thinner than it would have been and really looks cool, imho! 

Also, the player and the bass knob are not attached in any way inside the housing... I spent lots of time getting tolerances just right so that it's held together by the openings and the pressure of the aluminum face against the wood housing.


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> ...On another note, I go through about one Dremel a year, because I abuse the **** out of them...


I use to do the same thing then I picked a cheap one up from Harbor Freight by Chicago Electric. Because it was so cheap I have beaten on it even harder than the Dremel and it's still chugging along after 2 years.

Awesome build!!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

You guys are right, the small knob is much better! I cut it down and smoothed it out...







































Moving on...


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

I don't mind big knobs.... oh wait. Never mind.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> I use to do the same thing then I picked a cheap one up from Harbor Freight by Chicago Electric. Because it was so cheap I have beaten on it even harder than the Dremel and it's still chugging along after 2 years.
> 
> Awesome build!!!


Thank you!

Great idea! I recently got the cordless dremel and that one is holding up ok so far...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> I don't mind big knobs.... oh wait. Never mind.


Lmao!
I prefer big knobs as long as they're on women... who were born women!  
Oh wait, doesn't knob mean...  Never mind. :laugh:


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

(.)(.) Just saying...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

One door down...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Better pics...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

It's amazing how well the GB10s fit in the factory tweeter locations! Just a little trimming with the Dremel, and press em in!
AND they match the interior trim perfectly, imho.


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

DavidRam said:


>


Nice work!! 

The window motor inside of the factory vapor barrier. Now there's a concept.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> Nice work!!
> 
> The window motor inside of the factory vapor barrier. Now there's a concept.


Thank you, sir!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm looking into a different mount for the little control center... The current position in the center console seems like it could be in the way a little and get knocked around.

Maybe I can figure out a cup holder mount or something like that. :idea2:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Passenger door done


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I thought this was weird - there were two different speakers in my front doors.


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Batches from different sweat shops on the assembly line?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> Batches from different sweat shops on the assembly line?


Could be...
One is made in Mexico, the other is made in China... And THAT is why I proudly buy "America Made" cars. :blush: :laugh:


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I remember seeing reports of similar "mismatched" OE speakers in other vehicles. I think in some cases it is done on purpose. They use a different driver left/right with varying T/S parameters to help "tune" the sound. 

In some cases, one of the quickest ways to find out is to look up the OE part numbers. If you have a different part number for the drivers, it is likely intentional.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I remember seeing reports of similar "mismatched" OE speakers in other vehicles. I think in some cases it is done on purpose. They use a different driver left/right with varying T/S parameters to help "tune" the sound.
> 
> In some cases, one of the quickest ways to find out is to look up the OE part numbers. If you have a different part number for the drivers, it is likely intentional.


Interesting. 

I just figured my Jeep was made with leftovers... 

Lol


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I ordered a couple "ram mount" pieces so I can mount the control center in a cup holder... 
I don't think I like it long term in the center console.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I don't think there could be a more perfect factory tweeter location, in terms of fit, for the GB10s! A little trim with the dremel and it pops right in. 

Like it was made for them...


----------



## ekaz (Jul 22, 2009)

That speaker on the left looks like its from the HK audio system.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ekaz said:


> That speaker on the left looks like its from the HK audio system.


Yep, you are right... thanks


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

wow those tweeters look perfect in there!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Fired it up!

No major, sparks, explosions or fires to report!


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Very nice!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I think this will be it's final resting place...



















The heavy duty Ram mount holds it much more stable than the bracket I made and it's not in the way at all...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The amp rack looks much better in person... You get a little peek-a-boo look at the wiring with the cf as a back ground. Also, the lights are blue. Not sure why they look purple in the pics...

Overall the fit on everything is as perfect as I could get it. Next step in the fabrication is to build some panels that seal off the box and rack with the trunk, and hide the wheel wells and stuff.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Set the gains and cross overs. I can hear massive potential in the system already!!! 

I must be learning how to do these things right the first time, as there aren't any issues so far at all.  

Getting all the trim panels back on...


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is beyond awesome!!!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

David,

REALLY Nice work!! Congrats on getting to hear it for the first time!!!

Just curious if you ever considered mounting that beautiful aluminum plate that you made overhead abider the rearview mirror , either on top of the headliner (with industrial velcro) or even flush mount with the headliner (WAY more work!!!) ??

I think THAT would look way cool and also be a lot more stealth!!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> David,
> 
> REALLY Nice work!! Congrats on getting to hear it for the first time!!!
> 
> ...


Thanks! That's a cool idea for sure... I hadn't thought of that. 

There are quite a bit of cables going to this thing: (2) RJ11s for the DSP remote and bass knob, one coax to the dap and one usb to the dap.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> ...
> There are quite a bit of cables going to this thing: (2) RJ11s for the DSP remote and bass knob, one coax to the dap and one usb to the dap.


True dat,,, MUCH MORE work!!!cables would have to be run under the headliner along the windshield and then down the a pillar and back to control units. 

I have quad gauge pod with 4 dual analog gauges I it ,mounted above the rear view in my truck, but I still will install the Alpine RUX on the overhead console, but I LIKE a "cockpit" type aesthetic!!! LOL.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> True dat,,, MUCH MORE work!!!cables would have to be run under the headliner along the windshield and then down the a pillar and back to control units.
> 
> I have quad gauge pod with 4 dual analog gauges I it ,mounted above the rear view in my truck, but I still will install the Alpine RUX on the overhead console, but I LIKE a "cockpit" type aesthetic!!! LOL.


I do to... I don't necessarily love having the control thing where it is, but, like most things in our hobby, it's a compromise. 

It is VERY convenient to the drivers seat - very visible and at a perfect arms length. Keep in mind the dsp volume is the main volume.


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is pretty nifty right there. Very cool to have everything right where you need it, and still very clean looking. 

The amp rack is nothing short of stellar!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> That is pretty nifty right there. Very cool to have everything right where you need it, and still very clean looking.
> 
> The amp rack is nothing short of stellar!


Thank you!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, it turns out that I celebrated too soon... :blush:  

*I have a pretty nasty alternator whine. *


----------



## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I've been noticing a whine at low volume lately in my system.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Next, I need to figure out how to seal off these gaps in the sides... It would be cool to do some curved plywood panels. 

Any ideas??


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Are you wanting bent plywood? Or just curves cut into the pieces?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> Are you wanting bent plywood? Or just curves cut into the pieces?


Well,I guess it would be bent plywood. I like wood for it's ease of cutting and shaping, but really a curved piece of anything would look good... I could make my own curve with multiple layers of ply, but that might be unnecessarily difficult.  
I would be carpeting it and adding a strip of perforated aluminum to it with lighting behind it...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The curve would be like this.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Oooooh, I gotcha. Betting a few layers of that Lauan ply would work just fine. Thought about something similar for a center console subwoofer enclosure a few years back. 

That, or smoked acrylic


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

My sister just said the trunk looks "pretty" and it also looks like a smiley face... :blush:

I think I ****ed up.


----------



## kanadian-kaos (Sep 12, 2010)

Get a piece of ABS or PVC pipe and cut it in half lengthwise with a sharp fine tooth blade through a table saw. Be careful (go slow) as it chips and kicks back easily. It also smells pretty bad.

Attach some MDF braces to the back to easily secure it. Wrap it in vinyl when you are done. You will get the perfect curve this way as you can choose the diameter of the pipe.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

kanadian-kaos said:


> Get a piece of ABS or PVC pipe and cut it in half lengthwise with a sharp fine tooth blade through a table saw. Be careful (go slow) as it chips and kicks back easily. It also smells pretty bad.
> 
> Attach some MDF braces to the back to easily secure it. Wrap it in vinyl when you are done. You will get the perfect curve this way as you can choose the diameter of the pipe.


That's a great idea! Thanks!


----------



## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

why not like a well supported beauty panel? you can still use your hatch to carry items without endangering your equipment? have cutouts that show off the subs and amps but maybe plexi windows?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> why not like a well supported beauty panel? you can still use your hatch to carry items without endangering your equipment? have cutouts that show off the subs and amps but maybe plexi windows?


Yes, the factory trunk lid will go back in and rest on those rails... I would like to be able to conceal the equipment completely for everyday driving. Part of the purpose of the panels would be to help support the weight when transporting heavy things. 
I'll most likely add a center leg to the lid that rests on the sub box too. 

I would like to add an actuator to the trunk lid with a remote, just because...


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

I LOVE the idea of bent laminated Mahogany (ok, well Luan) plywood!!!

That being said, if you DO go with the large diameter split ABS pipe, best to use a reverse rake, fine tooth triple chip blade (like for cutting aluminum sheet). Grab and Kick back on that sh*t is awful.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> I LOVE the idea of bent laminated Mahogany (ok, well Luan) plywood!!!
> 
> That being said, if you DO go with the large diameter split ABS pipe, best to use a reverse rake, fine tooth triple chip blade (like for cutting aluminum sheet). Grab and Kick back on that sh*t is awful.


I love the bent wood idea, too, though it would be carpeted. I think there could be some slight acoustic benefits to using wood... 

The overall look I'm after, is something subtle that blends in with the Jeeps interior... I'm trying not to draw too much attention to it, the subs and amp are the focal points. 

With the abs I would have to go really large diameter, because it doesn't need to be more than a subtle arc. I don't have a table saw, so I would be cutting it with a Milwaukee M18 circ saw.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> My sister just said the trunk looks "pretty" and it also looks like a smiley face... :blush:
> 
> I think I ****ed up.


You didn;t **** up at all...it looks MUCH more like an old reel to reel console recorder then a smiley face!!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> You didn;t **** up at all...it looks MUCH more like an old reel to reel console recorder then a smiley face!!!


LMAO! Oh boy, I'm not sure which is worse...   :laugh:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Like I said, it's often the basic stuff and an easy fix with alternator whine...

What was causing it was the skinny/un-shielded neck of the rca was resting on the aluminum rack (see arrows), and on the other ends of the amps are the power wires that are also resting on the aluminum... I could turn the a/w off and on by resting the rcas against the aluminum and then moving it a 1/4 inch away. 

I re-positioned the rcas and there isn't a trace of a/w left... 

That doesn't say much for these Stinger 8000 series rcas, though. The fat part can rest against the aluminum without any issues, but Stinger left the last few inches unprotected and that caused a nasty alternator whine in my set-up.
I might replace them with something better...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Now I can move on to some intimate hours with my mic, my laptop and REW...


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Like I said, it's often the basic stuff and an easy fix with alternator whine...
> 
> What was causing it was the skinny/un-shielded neck of the rca was resting on the aluminum rack (see arrows), and on the other ends of the amps are the power wires that are also resting on the aluminum... I could turn the a/w off and on by resting the rcas against the aluminum and then moving it a 1/4 inch away.
> 
> ...


Wow, that sucks to invest that much into RCAs (I know 8000s are cheap to some) only to have them contribute to an issue like alternator whine. I was originally planning to use 8000s in my current build, but decided to DIY instead and save some cash. Not that I might have ended up with the same issue, but it is one more potential reason I'm glad to be "rolling my own."


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Wow, that sucks to invest that much into RCAs (I know 8000s are cheap to some) only to have them contribute to an issue like alternator whine. I was originally planning to use 8000s in my current build, but decided to DIY instead and save some cash. Not that I might have ended up with the same issue, but it is one more potential reason I'm glad to be "rolling my own."


A bummer for sure, man... They are beautiful to look at, but that is a serious design flaw, imho. Btw, they were the cause of whine in my previous build, too. But in that one the skinny part was literally resting against the power wire, so I put a 3/4" thick piece of foam between them and that took care of the problem. 

I'll probably look for some different ones at some point. For now I am just happy to move on to tuning (which I enjoy immensely).


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

I have the stinger 6000 and they’re garbage. I’ve already had to replace 2 different pairs. The ends got looser so I have to keep pushing them back into the dsp. I bought the stuff to make my own but ain’t nobody got time for dat. Probably be getting some made for me while everything’s pretty much tore apart.


----------



## chesapeakesoja (Apr 9, 2009)

I've had decent luck with the shielding on Monoprice cables, but they tend to be so stiff.

I'd make my own if I had the time; it really would be the most ideal solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

There is a member here (Westco) who started a custom RCA cable business using high quality materials for reasonable prices.

He then sold the business to someone else offsite I think, but he is now back occasionally and IIRC offers to do one off custom cable builds for people.

Below is a link to minbari's review of the cables he bought from Westco...perhapa you can PM Westco and see what he can do for you??

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...parisons/159353-westco-rca-cables-review.html


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> There is a member here (Westco) who started a custom RCA cable business using high quality materials for reasonable prices.
> 
> He then sold the business to someone else offsite I think, but he is now back occasionally and IIRC offers to do one off custom cable builds for people.
> 
> ...


That' a good idea, because they only need to be about 1.5' long and those are hard to find...


----------



## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> That' a good idea, because they only need to be about 1.5' long and those are hard to find...




I got these for my Sony GS9 to dsp. Seem like nice quality and you can get them In custom sizes. Plenty of people recommend the canere star quad cable for DIY cables. 

https://www.amazon.com/Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair-Interconnect/dp/B01ALMZTMU



And just a heads up, it will be a while before you can enjoy them ....


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bradknob said:


> I got these for my Sony GS9 to dsp. Seem like nice quality and you can get them In custom sizes. Plenty of people recommend the canere star quad cable for DIY cables.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair-Interconnect/dp/B01ALMZTMU
> 
> ...


Damn it... tick tock tick tock... Lol


I have been working on tuning and I have a pretty decent sound so far... The GS690s in well deadened Jeep doors, puts out the most solid midbass I have ever had! 
I like mine a little bass heavy, so this should allow me to blend the mids with the subs pretty well.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I got the sides sealed off... Cut out the shapes from some foam (stiff yoga mat style stuff) I had laying around and carpeted it. It works and looks surprisingly good, imho. 

Sorry the pics are so ****ty... again. :blush:






















Btw, the different carpets look almost identical in person, not sure why they look like various shades of black in the pics...


----------



## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Looking good Dave. I like the foam mat idea, simple and easy too. :thumbsup:







Burn I time on RCA cables....... Bwahhhahahahaahhhahahaahh. :laugh:




Sorry, I couldn’t resist.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

V8toilet said:


> Looking good Dave. I like the foam mat idea, simple and easy too. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks and I know man... ridiculous, funny stuff! :laugh:


The foam was easy to cut and curve... The nice, thick Flexform carpet filled in the gaps. 


Better pic (I think):













Before


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I sealed up the rest of the trunk (the tracks the lid sits on)...










I kinda like the layers of carpet, looks cool imho.










I left the carpet edge loose in case I decide to add some lighting under there.


----------



## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

that looks clean, really dig it!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> that looks clean, really dig it!


Thanks man!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Not audio related, but today I installed the rear Eibach Pro lowering springs. It handles so much better and looks good too, imho.

If I have time next week, I'll swap in the Eiback springs on the factory struts to complete the lowering... 

The front (on factory springs) is less than a 1/2" lower than the rear now... I do think these GCs look good with a little rake, so the front Eibachs should make it about 3/4" lower than the rear. 

Rear lowered










Stock height


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

lookin good dude. i,agree, a slight rake is ok on these. btw, i just picked up the exact same jeep.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> lookin good dude. i,agree, a slight rake is ok on these. btw, i just picked up the exact same jeep.


Really? Altitude in silver?


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Really? Altitude in silver?


yep, yours kinda inspired me. i almost got the granite silver, but with the black window trim now, it just felt too dark and the way the billet silver was looking that day in the sun, it was speaking to me. i liked white, but somebody at work already has the white one, and i didn't want to be that guy. plus, i'd never had a silver vehicle, so it felt like it was time.

traded this in...

https://jeepgarage.org/f110/2011-overland-154850.html

for this....

https://jeepgarage.org/f110/2018-jgc-altitude-billet-silver-211147.html


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> yep, yours kinda inspired me. i almost got the granite silver, but with the black window trim now, it just felt too dark and the way the billet silver was looking that day in the sun, it was speaking to me. i liked white, but somebody at work already has the white one, and i didn't want to be that guy. plus, i'd never had a silver vehicle, so it felt like it was time.
> 
> traded this in...
> 
> ...


Cool!!! I read that you are planning on lowering it too... 
The rear spring install was surprisingly easy, I did it at leisure in just under an hour per side. Next week I'll find out how difficult the front is! Lol

I like white a lot too, but the silver and black combo on these GCs is #1 for me. I had a 2016 granite crystal Wrangler, that was also a beautiful color. The silver doesn't show dirt at all...


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

Yeah, I've been watching your threads on here and jeep garage to see how things are going. I hope to lower it, but priority 1 is to figure out a stereo system for once.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> Yeah, I've been watching your threads on here and jeep garage to see how things are going. I hope to lower it, but priority 1 is to figure out a stereo system for once.


I look forward to an audio build log soon!


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

that's the plan, though im currently liquidating some gear at the moment. im thinking of scaling back what i had, but no plans on what to get to replace it all with yet.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Front springs are in too:

AFTER










BEFORE


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

that's a huge difference; looks awesome man! you thinking of tinting the front windows?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> that's a huge difference; looks awesome man! you thinking of tinting the front windows?


Thanks man! It rides like a completely different vehicle, too... 

I'd like to, but I'm in Commiefornia where everything is illegal, including front window tint. 

I need to get an alignment done next week, there is some negative camber that needs to be corrected.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

Would you say it improved the ride/handling then, I expect?

And yeah, I know all too well. I remember getting a ticket for my tint, having to remove it, and then having to prove it to the court rep in Long Beach. Still, it would look soooo much better tinted, if you're willing to roll the dice.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> Would you say it improved the ride/handling then, I expect?
> 
> And yeah, I know all too well. I remember getting a ticket for my tint, having to remove it, and then having to prove it to the court rep in Long Beach. Still, it would look soooo much better tinted, if you're willing to roll the dice.


Handling/cornering is night and day. It feels much more like a performance oriented German suv...

Plus, acceleration and braking is smooth with the body barely moving around anymore.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

that's encouraging! when you get a chance, can you list the parts you installed? were you able to do it yourself, or did you have a shop do it?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> that's encouraging! when you get a chance, can you list the parts you installed? were you able to do it yourself, or did you have a shop do it?


I installed it myself in my little one car garage...

I used the Eibach Pro kit model #28108.540, it consists of four springs and two bump stops for the front. 

Install is pretty straight forward with basic tools - you will definitely need an impact wrench, a variety of metric and sae sockets and wrenches, a torque wrench (up to 175 ft lbs), a spring compressor and of course a jack and jack stands.


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## Lstruck (Sep 14, 2010)

The wife wants me to do a setup in her 18 GC, and boy has this thread been handy. Only thing with my install, is its a must to keep the spare, as her car is our long distance travel car.

I'm guessing a fiberglassed enclosure where the factory sub is, is going to be my best alternative.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lstruck said:


> The wife wants me to do a setup in her 18 GC, and boy has this thread been handy. Only thing with my install, is its a must to keep the spare, as her car is our long distance travel car.
> 
> I'm guessing a fiberglassed enclosure where the factory sub is, is going to be my best alternative.


Her Jeeps a beauty!


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Her Jeeps a beauty!


it sure is, i always love white and almost went with this one. looks great!

and yes, some sort of custom enclosure would be required over the passenger side wheel well where the factory sub is/would be. i believe jl makes a stealthbox for it, but where's the fun in that? also, if you're brave and capable, you can indeed cut that metal if you need a larger enclosure as i did. it frees up so much more room. i used a dremel and went through about 10 discs. i also made sure to completely mask off everything else as the shavings go everywhere. this is on my old jeep and i may do it to the new one too.

or, depending on the scope of the system, i would think you could get a small 5 channel amp, something like a pdxv9 or something, and make a custom mount for it in the spare area, keeping the spare. and, you should have the empty cavity under the driver seat where you should be able to fit a small, 8" or so, sub. that would be super simple.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

justalex said:


> Hello just install the new head unit for my car
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's pretty cool, but for a totally different Jeep... Cherokee vs GC.


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## Lstruck (Sep 14, 2010)

brett said:


> it sure is, i always love white and almost went with this one. looks great!
> 
> and yes, some sort of custom enclosure would be required over the passenger side wheel well where the factory sub is/would be. i believe jl makes a stealthbox for it, but where's the fun in that? also, if you're brave and capable, you can indeed cut that metal if you need a larger enclosure as i did. it frees up so much more room. i used a dremel and went through about 10 discs. i also made sure to completely mask off everything else as the shavings go everywhere. this is on my old jeep and i may do it to the new one too.
> 
> or, depending on the scope of the system, i would think you could get a small 5 channel amp, something like a pdxv9 or something, and make a custom mount for it in the spare area, keeping the spare. and, you should have the empty cavity under the driver seat where you should be able to fit a small, 8" or so, sub. that would be super simple.


I'm personally leaning towards the cutting, and trying to get some more room for a custom enclosure. She's already got the factory 8", and it's not enough anymore. I was going to use my Zapco SQ-6x, but I'm going to reserve that for the system I'm also building for my 18 Mustang(yes I'm a busy man, lol)

A quicker way of cutting that sheetmetal would have been a 4.5" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. They're suprisingly cheap, and I find a million ways of using them.


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## Lstruck (Sep 14, 2010)

Oh, the other option I was thinking about, was building a box that sits between the back of the back seats and her "tonneau" cover that covers the rear area. It would be rather "stealth", especially with the 15% tint, but could be pulled forward with the seats down, to get the spare. I've got all the stuff to metal work, aswell as wood work, so the fab aspect shouldn't be a problem. I'm much more familiar with box building, than I am fiberglassing


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

right on, i love the idea of cutting metal! as you can see, there's quite a bit of room back there.

let's start a new thread for her jeep so we can keep david's freed up.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

hey dave, i was going to start the wiring here soon on my jeep. i was hoping you could snap a pic of how you connected to the battery?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> hey dave, i was going to start the wiring here soon on my jeep. i was hoping you could snap a pic of how you connected to the battery?


I only have this pic: 









That is 0 gauge cable and a relatively bulky fuse holder and the battery cover snaps back on without any problems.

You have to take out the small battery to be able to move the large battery to give you room to access the + terminal... Other than being a little cramped under there, it's pretty easy to connect and run the cables under the carpet.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> hey dave, i was going to start the wiring here soon on my jeep. i was hoping you could snap a pic of how you connected to the battery?


On a none audio note, I am not sure if you saw this on the other forum, but I made an exhaust tip... I am going to mount it today.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> I only have this pic:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thanks man, that should give me something to start with. i'll be using 0 gauge as well, but might do a breaker instead, if it fits.

btw, how are you dealing with the start/stop? i hate it and i turn it off every time i get in. i know there are kits to disable this, but it seems that the altitude is somewhat of an anomaly and that it requires more work. 

also, tips are cool too!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> thanks man, that should give me something to start with. i'll be using 0 gauge as well, but might do a breaker instead, if it fits.
> 
> btw, how are you dealing with the start/stop? i hate it and i turn it off every time i get in. i know there are kits to disable this, but it seems that the altitude is somewhat of an anomaly and that it requires more work.
> 
> also, tips are cool too!


Thanks!

I turn it off every time I get in the car... It's become second nature already. I do hate it, too. I also keep eco mode off, because I don't like how it drives with that on. 

There is a guy on the jeep forum selling a OBD2 plug that disables the start/stop feature, but he won't send me one because I am in California. 

I would bet there is fuse that can be pulled, or maybe unplugging the small battery, to disable it... But that might cause a light on the dash.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

this wouldn't really do you any good since you're in ca, but this is what i was talking about...

https://www.smartstopstart.com/jeep-dodge-chrysler-products.html

there are threads about this on jeepgarage as well. basically, there are tricks like fuses, hood release, etc, but even if they don't throw an error, it might store a code that's visible to the dealer. honestly, im just going to try to use the button whenever i can remember as it has become second nature now.

i've been driving in eco mode the entire time and find it to be more than enough, and my mpg is between 19-20 on average; not bad.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> this wouldn't really do you any good since you're in ca, but this is what i was talking about...
> 
> https://www.smartstopstart.com/jeep-dodge-chrysler-products.html
> 
> ...


Yep, that's the gadget... That's not bad mpg for a big heavy Jeep.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> On a none audio note, I am not sure if you saw this on the other forum, but I made an exhaust tip... I am going to mount it today.


Those exhaust tips came out nice!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Those exhaust tips came out nice!


Thanks BP!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Tip installed:


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

that looks awesome, sticks out just the right amount. now time to go dual exhaust!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> that looks awesome, sticks out just the right amount. now time to go dual exhaust!


Thanks! Can't say I haven't thought about that many times... If I could find a rear diffuser that would work, I would chop that bumper up and make my own dual.


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

nah dude, you can just get something like this and have a shop paint it for you. it's textured, but i had my textured trim painted on my 11 overland by a body shop and it turned out great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bumper-Cov...=item56721fa15f:g:oY8AAOSw76JcIA3P:rk:50:pf:0


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> nah dude, you can just get something like this and have a shop paint it for you. it's textured, but i had my textured trim painted on my 11 overland by a body shop and it turned out great.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bumper-Cov...=item56721fa15f:g:oY8AAOSw76JcIA3P:rk:50:pf:0


That looks like a good option, thanks! I'm going to see what it would take to make it dual...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Got a little work done...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Looks like a job that will be well done OP...


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> On a none audio note, I am not sure if you saw this on the other forum, but I made an exhaust tip... I am going to mount it today.


Hey David,

Do you have a link to the other forum that shows what parts you used and what you did to fab up this exhaust tip? It looks really good and it’s got me thinking of doing something with the exhaust tips on my Camry..

Thanks!

Edit: almost forgot- kudos for taking on the spring upgrade. I had my car lowered in the past and had a shop do it because it intimidated me. Right on for doing it yourself!


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Those exhaust tips are nice!


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

be alot cooler if you went dual...

...sorry, just trying to live vicariously through your build until i find the time to start mine.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Chris12 said:


> DavidRam said:
> 
> 
> > On a none audio note, I am not sure if you saw this on the other forum, but I made an exhaust tip... I am going to mount it today.
> ...


I wontet anyone touch my vehicles. So ive learned to do yhr suspension work myself. Now i do local trucks on the side. Most people dont care because its not their vehicle. Its always best to do it on your own even if it takes longet


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Chris12 said:


> Hey David,
> 
> Do you have a link to the other forum that shows what parts you used and what you did to fab up this exhaust tip? It looks really good and it’s got me thinking of doing something with the exhaust tips on my Camry..
> 
> ...


Thanks man! I have had too many ****ty jobs done by shops and "the pros", so now I do everything myself...

Here is a thread with all the info:
https://jeepgarage.org/f108/exhaust-tip-my-diy-slip-on-concoction-212825.html


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Those exhaust tips are nice!


Thanks, man!



brett said:


> be alot cooler if you went dual...
> 
> ...sorry, just trying to live vicariously through your build until i find the time to start mine.


I agree. Once I get this audio build done, AGAIN, I'll take a good hard look at doing dual... 




ToNasty said:


> I wontet anyone touch my vehicles. So ive learned to do yhr suspension work myself. Now i do local trucks on the side. Most people dont care because its not their vehicle. Its always best to do it on your own even if it takes longet


Same here. Not even the car wash...


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks, man!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I love doing my washes. 4 or so hours of me by myself knowing its done right

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> I love doing my washes. 4 or so hours of me by myself knowing its done right
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Yep, it's therapy.  I enjoy it immensely...


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Yep, it's therapy.  I enjoy it immensely...


did this very thing on mine last weekend, wash, clay and wax all by hand. you'd be surprised how much crap builds up on the surface in a few months.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

brett said:


> did this very thing on mine last weekend, wash, clay and wax all by hand. you'd be surprised how much crap builds up on the surface in a few months.


Dont forget to decontaminate the paint first!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## brett (Apr 27, 2005)

honestly, i've never heard of decontamination of paint. indulge me, please?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

brett said:


> honestly, i've never heard of decontamination of paint. indulge me, please?


I would but i dont want to clutter up the thread. You can pm me if youd like

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

brett said:


> did this very thing on mine last weekend, wash, clay and wax all by hand. you'd be surprised how much crap builds up on the surface in a few months.


Yep, that's a fun day right there... 

I have one simple step, that keeps my paint looking good longer, with less work. After EVERY wash, I apply a spray on wax or at least a protective detail spray to the paint. Basically, I never, ever leave the paint without some sort of protective coat. Since I started doing this my paint looks better, longer with less work.

I have come to believe that waxes don't last nearly as long as advertised, so the key isn't just going through the whole process (clay, wax, etc.), but also keeping the paint protected at all times.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Yep, that's a fun day right there...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Every few months i do a full paint denon and top with sonax netshield

But after every wash i do do a quick wipe down with nicks spray wax. Best ive ever used. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## flgfish (Jan 17, 2019)

That is a fantastic job on the exhaust tip. Very cool.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

flgfish said:


> That is a fantastic job on the exhaust tip. Very cool.


Thank you!


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