# Amp selection for porsche 996



## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

I am planning to upgrade my factory stereo, I have a 2004 Porsche 911 carrerra 4S convertible. I am having a hard time selecting an amp to run my set up, please help by making suggestions.
I already purchased:
- 2 sets of Polk Audio SR5250 Component speakers for the front & rear
- 1 set of Polk Audio SR6500 Component speakers for the doors
- 1 pair of 10" Digital Designs 2510 subwoofers
- 1 pair of 10" JL Audio 10W7 subwoofers
I will only use one pair of subwoofers, but have not decided on the one.
Subwoofers will we installed in the rear footwells.
I will use Pioneer AVIC-X920BT as Head Unit

I considered the Cadence ZRS-C8 because it's a 5 channel with lots of power and I wouldn't have to run 2 amps, and it only cost $449 but the sub output is low, I also considered 1 Alpine 4.150 + 1 Alpine 2.150 for the components and getting either a JL or DD amp for the subs but that's just too many amps. One other option was to run all the comps speakers with a 2 way amp in stereo Left & Right and the subs on a separate amp... 
I will consider all prices as I understand my options are limited
Please advise
Thx


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

everyone has their own tastes and desires but imho, based on the listed equipment, you really only need a single set of components up front and single 10w7. i am running a pair of jbl gto804 subs and a set of alpine type-x comps all powered by a pdx5 in my 83SC. running 3 sets of comps and a pair of 10s in a 911 is massive overkill.


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

nineball said:


> everyone has their own tastes and desires but imho, based on the listed equipment, you really only need a single set of components up front and single 10w7. i am running a pair of jbl gto804 subs and a set of alpine type-x comps all powered by a pdx5 in my 83SC. running 3 sets of comps and a pair of 10s in a 911 is massive overkill.


The car came with 3 sets of speakers:
- 1 set on the dashboard
- 1 set on the rear panels
- 1 set on the doors
so I am simply replacing/upgrading the factory speakers and adding Subwoofers. 
Are you saying I should disconnect all other speakers and just use 1 set of comps?


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

your doors house a 5.25" coax speaker, the dash and rear i believe are 4" and a tweet. i did not realize they used so many as a factory option. from what i have read it is not impossible to change them but the housings and wire connections are proprietary and are a pain to work with. 

if i had the same dilemma i would probably get a nice 3 way set to replace the dash and doors and forget about the rear. good luck with the dash, it looks to be a real pain.


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Christolei said:


> so I am simply replacing/upgrading the factory speakers ..


Common misconception that you need to put an upgraded speaker in each hole the factory gives you to achieve the desired result of improved sound quality. Often times, it's the exact opposite. Are you looking to make more sound or better sound than factory?


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

nineball said:


> your doors house a 5.25" coax speaker, the dash and rear i believe are 4" and a tweet. i did not realize they used so many as a factory option. from what i have read it is not impossible to change them but the housings and wire connections are proprietary and are a pain to work with.
> 
> if i had the same dilemma i would probably get a nice 3 way set to replace the dash and doors and forget about the rear. good luck with the dash, it looks to be a real pain.


You are correct as far as factory specs is concerned, to change them we'll have to run new wires and do some custom work to fit the new speakers. 
Installing a 3 way set is not a bad idea but you'll still need to install subs and fillers in the back...


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> Common misconception that you need to put an upgraded speaker in each hole the factory gives you to achieve the desired result of improved sound quality. Often times, it's the exact opposite. Are you looking to make more sound or better sound than factory?


Am actually trying to do both: Much More and Much Better sound...


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Christolei said:


> Am actually trying to do both: Much More and Much Better sound...


Often mutually exclusive depending on your definitions of "more" and "better".... Your 'better' definition is much more critical to understand; for starters please clarify what it means to you with regard to tonality, center focus, stage width and depth, coherence and balance.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

Christolei said:


> You are correct as far as factory specs is concerned, to change them we'll have to run new wires and do some custom work to fit the new speakers.
> Installing a 3 way set is not a bad idea but you'll still need to install subs and fillers in the back...


with a quality set of speakers up front you will really have no need for rear at all. again i say that a single 10w7 will provide more bass than you will need, a pair will be overkill.


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> Often mutually exclusive depending on your definitions of "more" and "better".... Your 'better' definition is much more critical to understand; for starters please clarify what it means to you with regard to tonality, center focus, stage width and depth, coherence and balance.


I would like a deep sound that will keep clarity, precision at higher volume. I would like the entire cabin to have the same sound quality. I am open minded because I would like to obtain the best possible result.
Thx


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

nineball said:


> with a quality set of speakers up front you will really have no need for rear at all. again i say that a single 10w7 will provide more bass than you will need, a pair will be overkill.


I choose to go with 2 instead of 1 simply because I've always believed more is better than less when it comes to subs. With more subs you don't have to drive them as hard to obtain the desired result/quality. So yes a single 10w7 or even DD2510 could provide enough bass, but with 2 I have more flexibility... 
Because I already purchased the Polk Audio SR series, do you believe that if installed in the dashboard as well as the doors they qualify as "quality set of speakers up front" for me not to need a rear set? And with a single 10w7 in this setup will you still place it in the rear foot wells?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

In that small of a cabin, i would say any aftermarket single set of components would be plenty. And if you have room for two subs then go for it i guess.


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

Austin said:


> In that small of a cabin, i would say any aftermarket single set of components would be plenty. And if you have room for two subs then go for it i guess.


With the set up that I am currently intending to go with, do you suggest any amps?


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

*Amp selection for porsche 996 *

Automatically I am sure many are thinking the same as I....Porsche = refined power!
Automatically, I have a system design in my head regardless of what system design you posted:

FRONT - Polk SR6500
REAR - No rear fill (Or the Polk SR5250 if the owner really wanted them)
SUB - one JL Audio 10W7
AMP - JL AUDIO HD900/5

Then I see a stealth install like this:
http://www.teamspeed.com/forums/car...porsche-996-carrera-custom-audio-install.html









But I guess that is not your vision? Three sets of comp, two W7 subs, and balls to the walls power maybe is? Then let 'er rip dude! 

Maybe you are after something like this?
996 Twin Turbo Stereo Install =) - Photo









Maybe Something like a JL Audio XD600/6 on the comps and a X600/1 on each sub will keep things small and simple?....maybe that is 

not enought power? OK how about

ARC AUDIO KS900.6 - 60W x 4 (Dash & Rear comps) + 120W x 2 (Door Comps)
ARC AUDIO KS1000.1 - 1000 W X 1 powering two 10W7 @ 1.5 Ohms (Two W7's are not easy to get BIG power to without dropping down the Ohms. Will have to wire each of the subs coils for 3 Ohms then wire both subs in parallel for a final 1.5 Ohm load.)


I think the Arc amps will do the trick even though IMO...... Three components sets playing the same High frequencies in six different locations and midrange in six different locations is about one of the worst things one can do in a vehicle when trying to acheive coherent sound especially two sets of FRONT comps in completely different locations. I really think you should loose the dash comps. Just run the SR6500's w/ midwoofers in the door and try the tweets in the dash and other locations for the best sound. 

*...OR....*

Put the SR5250's in the dash and sell the SR6500 and put a serious midbass in the door and run a three-way up front. Something like the Exodus Audio Anarchy would might work...not sure how much depth you have in the doors? http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538












Now this setup will give you MUCH more midbass to mate up with the potent W7 subs vs. the SR6500 comps that are not know as midbass monsters.


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

Put the SR5250's in the dash and sell the SR6500 and put a serious midbass in the door and run a three-way up front. Something like the Exodus Audio Anarchy would might work...not sure how much depth you have in the doors? [url=http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538 said:


> DIYCable.com : Intro » Home » Exodus Subwoofers »[/url]
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I actually at some point considered midbass woofers in the doors, but felt that the comps + subs had me cover. So if i get you correctly, install midbass in doors, comps in dashboard + 2 subs. are you saying no rear speakers at all or its optional? what will be the impact of having them vs not having them vice-versa?
i don't have a lot of depth at the doors, so in choosing a woofer I have to be mindful of that, but I definitely want top quality...


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Here is probably the biggest of the many pissing contest threads regarding rear speakers. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/product-selection-comparisons/9806-rear-fill-do-you-use.html

I'm on the passionate side of NO.... I listen to music in my car, not watch movies. When I listen to music at home, I do so with two front speakers, not the full surround system. I feel the prominent stage needs to be focused in the front, centered under the mirror, as wide as your installation compromise allows (still in front of you) and as deep as your tuning can get you.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

Most of the rear fill installs that i have done have the levels so low the it is not worth the time. However I do want to try a center and rear fill with a JBL MS-8!


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

After reading responses on my thread, I am leaning towards changing my set up to the following config:
Front: 1 set of Polk Audio SR5250
Doors: 6.5 Midbass, Make & Model = Undecided (would like recommendations)
Rear: 1 set of Polk Audio SR5250 (No controversy intended, I got that rear fill is a matter of personal preference)
Head Unit: pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Components Amp: Cadence ZRS-C8 (150 watts X 2 fronts, 150 Watts X 2 for rear, 400 X 1 @ 4 ohm or 600 watts X 2 @ 2 ohm for doors)
Subs Amp: will depend of the set I go with
Subs: Two JL Audio 10w7 or two Digital Designs 2510 (would like recommendations) as mentioned b4 they will be installed in the rear foot wells


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Sounds like you are on a better path, but how are you going to handle processing for the midbass in the door? They can't run off your current passive crossovers....

Dedicated 6.5 midbass... no question the Peerless SLS

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_256&products_id=8234

That amp is a 5 channel amp, so it will play the two component sets and the subs.... or you will render that channel, and the overall function of a 5 channel amp, useless. 

If you like the cadence, I would run it to the front stage only at 150 to the midbass and 150 to the components with a y-splitter RCA cable from the front RCAs on the head unit. Run the rear components off the rear power of the head unit- that will give you fader controls. I don't know if that amp has high/low pass selection, but that would be one way to handle the crossover between those drivers by high passing the components and low passing the midbass.... unfortunately, the midbass should really be band passed.....

I like Hertz subs better than the two you mentioned based on performance and appearance. But that is a personal preference.

You could think about a Zed Leviathan if you can get passed the drama about them. Some have had very good luck, and that would give you 200 x 6 for the components and midbass, and it has built in bandpass functionality for the midbass. Then you can choose a separate sub amp....


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> Sounds like you are on a better path, but how are you going to handle processing for the midbass in the door? They can't run off your current passive crossovers....
> 
> Dedicated 6.5 midbass... no question the Peerless SLS
> 
> ...


I don't particularly like the Cadence (just thought I could find a way to run the midbass on the 5th channel) as a matter of fact a 6 channels amps works better but I was having a hard time finding one. I saw the Zed Leviathan but all the drama kept me at bay. I couldn't find a 6 channels with the kind of power I was looking for :worried: 
My other option is a 3 amps solution: 4 channels (comps) + 2 channels (midbass) + Mono (Subs) but I am trying so hard to stay away form this setup as I would like no more than 2 amps. 
Any 6 channels amp comparable to the Zed Leviathan?


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

if you go with a single sub you could get away with a pair of 4 channel amps - ch1 and 2 for the comps, 3 and 4 for the mids, 5 and 6 rear fill, 7 and 8 bridged to the sub.


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Zed has the best power/cost, but there are alternatives

Favorite....
Audison LRx 6.9
Audison - Music Expression
ARC 900.6 is 60 x 4 + 120 x 2
Arc Audio

Others..
JL G6600
G6600 - JL Audio 6 Ch 600 Watt Amplifier
JL XD600/6
JL Audio XD600/6 Amplifiers - Car Audio Amps & Amplifiers
Zapco REF650.6
Zapco: Your Automotive Audio Experts, Specializing in Amplifiers, Processors, and Speakers from Competition to Street Class.
Helix 6
A6 Competition - Helix 6 Ch 6x75/150 Watt High-End linear Amplifier
McIntosh MC406M


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> Zed has the best power/cost, but there are alternatives


I agree, but just can't yet get pass the drama. I looked at all these amp and can't find one with the power am looking for, however I found this one that seem puzzling (power is good but price is on the very low side, never heard of the brand...) 
dti ma-685sb 6-channel car amplifier DTI MA-685SB 6-Channel Car Amplifier
* 6-Channel South Beach Series Car Amplifier
* 4 ohms: 175 watts x 6 chan
* 2 ohms: 400 watts x 6 chan
* Bridged: 600 watts x 2 chan, 1200 watts x 1 chan
* Max power output: 2400 watts
* Class AB Design
* Fully MOSFET power amplifier
* Input sensibility selector
* Dual protection
* Power LED indicator
* Tri-mode operation
* Soft delay power on
* Variable low pass crossover
* Variable subsonic filter
* Variable Bass Boost
* Variable gain control
* Remote subwoofer control
* Heavy duty aluminum alloy heat sink
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 103dB
* Dimensions: 22-1/8"L x 12"W x 2-3/8"H
* Warranty: 1 year
Dti MA-685SB 6-Channel Car Amplifier Car Amplifiers MA685SB MA 685 SB car auto audio amplifier amp power channel stereo for car cheap dual best


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

nineball said:


> if you go with a single sub you could get away with a pair of 4 channel amps - ch1 and 2 for the comps, 3 and 4 for the mids, 5 and 6 rear fill, 7 and 8 bridged to the sub.


Will consider this option as well, but my goal is to have a separate control for the sub, and most 4 channel amps don't come with sub control. Thx


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

I would recommend- highly- Zuki audio, but if you are caught up on manufactured claimed power specs, it won't be worth the discussion. He has his own way of thinking when he rates his amps. I have run them in the past and been VERY happy with the power they put down.

zukiaudio.net

I wouldn't bother with the one you linked, but that's just because I'm more of a skeptic of over rated amps than under rated.


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> if you are caught up on manufactured claimed power specs, it won't be worth the discussion. He has his own way of thinking when he rates his amps. .
> 
> Thx for the suggestion, I looked at his amps but couldn't quit grasp his thought process
> What is the consensus about his power ratings? The Eleets 6 Ch show a rating of 5w X 6 @ 8 ohm, what is the general consensus about the real RMS power? Is it 4 ohm capable?


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Hard to say as this is a new line, but based on what I've heard they are upgraded from the last gen.... which is to say

Zuki Audio Eleets 4-Channel Amp Review


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

Christolei said:


> After reading responses on my thread, I am leaning towards changing my set up to the following config:
> Front: 1 set of Polk Audio SR5250
> Doors: 6.5 Midbass, Make & Model = Undecided (would like recommendations)
> Rear: 1 set of Polk Audio SR5250 (No controversy intended, I got that rear fill is a matter of personal preference)
> ...


You think three upright amps will fit upfront?









Soundstream D-Tower Series
DTR4.500 - 80W x 4 Front / Rear
DTR4.500 - 250W x 2 Midbass (You don't have much depth at all. Would have to build something custom to get a monster driver in.)
DTR1.1400 ~ 1200W x 1 (1.5 Ohms)

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Amplifiers/dtower.htm


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## Christolei (Aug 19, 2010)

WLDock said:


> You think three upright amps will fit upfront?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's one of the reason I would not like to have more than a 2 amps set up...
Its been a challenge indeed finding a monster driver that will fit, suggestions please... Slade1274 suggested the Peerless, WLDock suggested Exodus Audio Anarchy any one else second any? I am afraid they might not fit anyway
How monster does it have to be given the fact that I'll have subs?


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

Well, I think we may have been untoughtful in our suggestions. Your Polk SR6500 are fairly shallow drivers at 2-9/16" depth and they are even too deep for your doors based on specs of 2" depth. I never done a Porsche so I don't know what is possible....so a custom pod/baffle would be needed to get a deeper driver to fit.

As far as the need for a true midbass driver with some output? Have you ever heard two W7 subs in a small cabin powered with 1000 watts? More than enough impact to over power the front....even with the gains turned down
So, if you want a nice "sub up front" illusion....then use capable midbasses that can go down strong in the 70Hz-60Hz range then cross your subs over low from the point down with a steep slope ...will produce a very nice midbass to sub transition and should NOT give strong cues that you have subs in the rear.

You may have to try to get your Polks to work? Or....I think a shallow driver like the Hertz Space 6 might fit right in without mods? 
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm


As far as amps....What are the measurments of the front storage? I bet three vertical amps will fit....Maybe?


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

Just wondering, how the hell are you going to fit 2 10W7 under the dash of any car, much less a 911? They need some decent space, and honestly, one 10W7 will blow that car away with a good amp. Plenty of power and sound for that size of a car. If you really are itching for two subs though, I would seriously consider the 10W6 over the W7. Generally regarded as slightly better audio reproduction, just not quite as loud as the W7. But with 2 it would not matter at all. Also size requirement is a fair bit less for the W6. My preferred setup with JL subs are a single 12W7 or 2 10 W6's, with preference on the 2 W6's if space permits.

Either way, looking forward to build pics and info on the setup. I also just ordered the avic-x920BT so I'm looking forward to see how it turns out. It was actually delivered today!


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