# Sound Cutting Out at High Volumes



## DVan8504

I installed the system listed in my signature last weekend, and I decided to tune it today. When turning up the volume on a song, the components started cutting out. I messed with the gains, the high pass filters, etc, and noticed it only cuts out during particularly bassy parts of the song (sub which uses a different amp wasn't cutting out btw), so obviously it's an issue with the speakers drawing too much power.

Now, my truck had been sitting out in 90+ degree weather for about 18 hours before i pulled into the garage and turned up the volume, so it was pretty hot in the cabin. Do you think the heat caused the problems, or can the amp just not feed the components at higher volumes?


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## Abaddon

What's the crossover on the front speakers set to? and how loud are these "high volumes" you're talking about?


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## Oliver

It could be lack of power from your electrical system . . . U turn up volume, bass hits, system voltage goes down which results in system current going up.

your amps start to starve.

If U believe it is the heat try the system at night or in da shade


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## distronic

This could be a totally nonsesical diagnostic procedure, but does this "cutting out" occur with the engine running? How about with the engine running and you are pressing on the pedal to make the RPMs a bit high?


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## DVan8504

Abaddon said:


> What's the crossover on the front speakers set to? and how loud are these "high volumes" you're talking about?


80hz. If I set the high pass higher, the volume can go higher without cutting out, presumably because less bass is being played therefore less power is being used. Volume was around 24 out of a max of 40 on my head unit. It wasn't THAT loud. Truth be told, it's louder than I'll probably listen to it most of the time, but it wasn't unbearably loud.


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## DVan8504

a$$hole said:


> It could be lack of power from your electrical system . . . U turn up volume, bass hits, system voltage goes down which results in system current going up.
> 
> your amps start to starve.
> 
> If U believe it is the heat try the system at night or in da shade


It could be a lack in the electrical system, but no one else has mentioned this problem with my vehicle (2008 Toyota Tundra). I've had the truck in the garage since this happened yesterday, so I will try again tonight to see if it performs better.


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## DVan8504

distronic said:


> This could be a totally nonsesical diagnostic procedure, but does this "cutting out" occur with the engine running? How about with the engine running and you are pressing on the pedal to make the RPMs a bit high?


I did try with the engine running, and I got the same result. I didn't try pressing the gas pedal, but I'll try that if it gives me problems again.


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## 60ndown

disconnect 1 side speakers, and see if it still cuts out, try both side separately.

if only 1 side cuts out your half way fixed.


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## DVan8504

60ndown said:


> disconnect 1 side speakers, and see if it still cuts out, try both side separately.
> 
> if only 1 side cuts out your half way fixed.


Alright I'll try that.

Update: I tried raising the RPMs and holding them there, and the components still cut out. Yesterday I was getting cutout at volume 24. Today I'm getting cut out at volume 18 playing the same song. Either the amp is malfunctioning or the components are. Really hope it's the amp as I can just return that to the local Best Buy.


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## DVan8504

Update 2: I put my ear next to the woofer on the driver's side, and there's no bass coming from it. You can just barely hear some faint noise. I unhooked the driver's side RCAs from the amp, cranked the volume, and the passenger side was playing just fine. So we've isolated the problem to the driver's side. However, still don't know if it's the components or the amp. I would think it's the amp since a blown speaker should be audible.

Thoughts?


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## 60ndown

DVan8504 said:


> Update 2: I put my ear next to the woofer on the driver's side, and there's no bass coming from it. You can just barely hear some faint noise. I unhooked the driver's side RCAs from the amp, cranked the volume, and the passenger side was playing just fine. So we've isolated the problem to the driver's side. However, still don't know if it's the components or the amp. I would think it's the amp since a blown speaker should be audible.
> 
> Thoughts?


connect the known working side of amp to known non working speaker.

if it works fine its the amp, if its still fuxored its the speaker (or wiring?)


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## DVan8504

60ndown said:


> connect the known working side of amp to known non working speaker.
> 
> if it works fine its the amp, if its still fuxored its the speaker (or wiring?)


Tried this, and got the same result. So it's either the driver's side woofer or possibly the crossover. What I don't understand is why do both sides cut out when I turn the volume up when both RCAs are connected to the amp, but if I remove the RCAs for the side with the messed up woofer/crossover, the other side doesn't cut out at all when I turn up the volume?


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## 60ndown

DVan8504 said:


> Tried this, and got the same result. So it's either the driver's side woofer or possibly the crossover. What I don't understand is why do both sides cut out when I turn the volume up when both RCAs are connected to the amp, but if I remove the RCAs for the side with the messed up woofer/crossover, the other side doesn't cut out at all when I turn up the volume?


every time ive had a issue like this its been a TINY stray wire, or metal touching metal where it shouldnt.

check ALL your wires carefully, inspect inside the x overs, make sure nothing is touching anything it shouldnt.

the best way to do this imo, is remove and re-instal each item in your system 1 part at a time, CAREFULLY. (should take less than 30 minutes) just disconnect things, make sure all is clean and tidy, and re attach them.

and play the system after each job is complete see if you fixed the problem.

my money says its a screw on the speaker touching the door metal (or the speaker wire behind the door panel), or a hair like stray wire that has fallen into the x over, or something like it?


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## DVan8504

60ndown said:


> every time ive had a issue like this its been a TINY stray wire, or metal touching metal where it shouldnt.
> 
> check ALL your wires carefully, inspect inside the x overs, make sure nothing is touching anything it shouldnt.
> 
> the best way to do this imo, is remove and re-instal each item in your system 1 part at a time, CAREFULLY. (should take less than 30 minutes) just disconnect things, make sure all is clean and tidy, and re attach them.
> 
> and play the system after each job is complete see if you fixed the problem.
> 
> my money says its a screw on the speaker touching the door metal (or the speaker wire behind the door panel), or a hair like stray wire that has fallen into the x over, or something like it?


That would be amaaaazing if that's the problem. I just don't understand how something could've gotten loose/messed up when I haven't touched any of the wires, nor do I understand why that would make the speaker cut out only at higher volumes. I will check though.


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## jrouter76

I had a similar problem and it turned out that my RCA cables had become unscrewed at the HU and were touching metal and when I went to turn up my volume my mids/highs amp would cut out but not at low volume,


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## bturoci

I had a blown sub that would shut my amp off if I played it too loud.


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## DVan8504

jrouter76 said:


> I had a similar problem and it turned out that my RCA cables had become unscrewed at the HU and were touching metal and when I went to turn up my volume my mids/highs amp would cut out but not at low volume,


Thanks for that. I'll check the RCAs if I can't find the problem in the cab somewhere.



bturoci said:


> I had a blown sub that would shut my amp off if I played it too loud.


That would explain my amp issue since a door woofer is like a minisub. Thanks for the post.


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## DVan8504

After much testing, everything seems to be okay minus the driver's side woofer. Going to send it back tomorrow. When I asked the company what the turnaround time would be the guy said "It depends. We need to look at it." These are one week old, $600 speakers that were played at max volume for all of 30 seconds, so I'm expecting a new woofer pronto.


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## 60ndown

DVan8504 said:


> After much testing, everything seems to be okay minus the driver's side woofer. Going to send it back tomorrow. When I asked the company what the turnaround time would be the guy said "It depends. We need to look at it." These are one week old, $600 speakers that were played at max volume for all of 30 seconds, so I'm expecting a new woofer pronto.


yep, a misaligned coil could cause your problem. 

ups and fedex are really good at re aligning coils.


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## illinja

i was going to fully agree with 60ndown. I have had this exact problem before and it was tracked down to a wire coming loose at the crossover. could be any connection point cutting out, even one within the speaker, like the leads or a bad solder joint. Id be very suspicious of the wiring. 

But if you have tried everything already, i guess your driver is bunk, before you send it in though maybe you could try running it off your other channel or even your home stereo just to see how it performs full range when directly connected to an amp. 

good luck


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## DVan8504

60ndown said:


> yep, a misaligned coil could cause your problem.
> 
> ups and fedex are really good at re aligning coils.


I am inclined to believe it the woofer wasn't in the best shape when I got it as well.



illinja said:


> i was going to fully agree with 60ndown. I have had this exact problem before and it was tracked down to a wire coming loose at the crossover. could be any connection point cutting out, even one within the speaker, like the leads or a bad solder joint. Id be very suspicious of the wiring.
> 
> But if you have tried everything already, i guess your driver is bunk, before you send it in though maybe you could try running it off your other channel or even your home stereo just to see how it performs full range when directly connected to an amp.
> 
> good luck


I removed all wires from the driver's side crossover and ran them to the passenger side's crossover, and I still had the same results, so I'm 99% sure it's the woofer.


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## mariopnv

First things first - I'm sorry for bumping SUCH an old topic. If it's against the rules please do delete.

I'm having a similar problem, yesterday I bought a Pioneer MVH-280FD (4X100w) and before it I had Pioneer MVH-170UB. I didn't have this issue with the old headunit.

When i turn up the volume to 50ish, depending on how "bass heavy" the song is, the entire system cuts out for 1 second, starts playing again, cuts off again etc till i lower the volume. 

I've checked speaker polarity and speaker wires, none of them is grounding. I do have an amp connected to a sub, but when i bought the headunit i hooked it up without the amp to test and the same thing happened.
I don't use S.rtvr, bass boost nor sla. I did try playing around with these settings to test, same thing happens.
I also tried fading fully on front speakers and fully on rear, it doesn't cut out. Only when all 4 speakers are active. All speakers are on 4ohm (front alpine 5x7 35w rms - 200w max, rear hertz 6x9 90w rms - 180w max).

I've looked around the forums, and the common problem would be speakers wire grounding out, bad ground or some kind of a voltage drop.
Since I didn't have this problem with the old headunit, and I checked speaker wires and they're all fine.

Any tips, things I could check or maybe a faulty headunit?


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## Victor_inox

Your amps starving for power.


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## mariopnv

the headunit amp? i'll try measuring voltage under load, but while testing yesterday after 2 or so hours of playing with the car off, battery voltage was 12.5V. the same occurs with the car on and revving.. maybe there's a voltage drop when the bass kicks in?
I'll try measuring the voltage coming to the headunit instead of battery and further check the HU ground.


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## Victor_inox

mariopnv said:


> the headunit amp? i'll try measuring voltage under load, but while testing yesterday after 2 or so hours of playing with the car off, battery voltage was 12.5V. the same occurs with the car on and revving.. maybe there's a voltage drop when the bass kicks in?
> I'll try measuring the voltage coming to the headunit instead of battery and further check the HU ground.


 Amplifier drawing more current than amplifier power supply can provide choking on bass heavy songs. You can`t measure momentary voltage drop with conventional DMM. It`s not the matter of alternator supplying enough current but amplifier power supply incapable to keep up with demand. 

It`s clas FD curse, pioneer really dropped the ball with that stupid design.


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## mariopnv

blahh!! well that's not good news. should i exchange it for a normal headunit (normal as in 4x50w class d) and the next buy is an amp?
If so, do you have any recommendation for a headunit that prefferably has 2 (or even 3) RCA outs and more flexibility on EQ and crossovers - in a similar price range. taken into account that i live in croatia and the selection is not all that fantastic with prices +30% or more than amazon.

I never heard any other HU than pioneers, so i don't really know which sound i'm after. I like loud, bassy music but SQ is just as important to me.


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## Victor_inox

mariopnv said:


> blahh!! well that's not good news. should i exchange it for a normal headunit (normal as in 4x50w class d) and the next buy is an amp?
> If so, do you have any recommendation for a headunit that prefferably has 2 (or even 3) RCA outs and more flexibility on EQ and crossovers - in a similar price range. taken into account that i live in croatia and the selection is not all that fantastic with prices +30% or more than amazon.
> 
> I never heard any other HU than pioneers, so i don't really know which sound i'm after. I like loud, bassy music but SQ is just as important to me.


Keep HU, get a proper amplifier/s. There is 2 pioneer head units worth mentioning DEH-80PRS and DEH 99PRS. with JDM equivalents.
money wise 80PRS is a hit all by itself. 3 pair of independent outs with ability to setup active system without external DSP.


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## mariopnv

Yeah I've taken a look at 80prs, unfortunatelly it's out of my price range going for $360 and the one i got is $130 (MVH-280FD). My old mvh-170ub still functions very well and without any problems, but it only has 1 rca out for sub so i'd prefer exchanging the new HU for something in the $100-150 price range with more features, maybe more EQ and bluetooth/mic etc?

Also, since my amp (lanzar vibe 230) is under avarage and is paired with a pyle plm-1299d sub (12", 600w rms/1200w max) i'd prefer to get a single 5 channel amp to drive everything.


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## ten504

either your ground is loose or your not getting enough voltage. its a voltage drop that the reason it only cuts-off on loud bass


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## mariopnv

i will be checking both of those later today! if it's a voltage drop problem, what's the fix? 

also, thank you both for the help!


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## mariopnv

update.
I've checked both voltage and ground - battery voltage sits at 12.5v - 12.6v when the car is off and radio playing, and the radio ground is good and stable.

I've noticed that the cut offs occur less while the car is running, but it still happens at a bit higher volume.
I tested with the same song; 
car running - cuts off at 56 volume (battery stable at 14.5V)
car off - cuts off at 51 volume (battery stable at 12.5-12.6V)

Any other suggestions, or is the headunit just made that way?


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## oberon

Check your thread "newbie questions!"


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## MikeS

mariopnv said:


> something in the $100-150 price range with more features, maybe more EQ and bluetooth/mic etc?


https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/mvh-x580bt

Theres also one from alpine 

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/SingleView/UTE-92BT

both with 3 way network mode too


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## slick_nwa

Victor_inox said:


> Amplifier drawing more current than amplifier power supply can provide choking on bass heavy songs. You can`t measure momentary voltage drop with conventional DMM. It`s not the matter of alternator supplying enough current but amplifier power supply incapable to keep up with demand.
> 
> It`s clas FD curse, pioneer really dropped the ball with that stupid design.


So there's nothing that can be done..? I have the same exact player, 4X60w Helix speakers. Like above, the player cuts off at half volume when all 4 speakers are connected, works just fine with just 2 speakers...


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## Hosey

Why do my speakers cut out at high volume but plays at low volume...when I set my pioneer settings then turn it up it start skipping like the cd is stretched but played at low volume


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## Hosey

Hosey said:


> Why do my speakers cut out at high volume but plays at low volume...when I set my pioneer settings then turn it up it start skipping like the cd is stretched but played at low volume


I don't have a sound system just swapped my door speakers


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## drop1

DVan8504 said:


> I installed the system listed in my signature last weekend, and I decided to tune it today. When turning up the volume on a song, the components started cutting out. I messed with the gains, the high pass filters, etc, and noticed it only cuts out during particularly bassy parts of the song (sub which uses a different amp wasn't cutting out btw), so obviously it's an issue with the speakers drawing too much power.
> 
> Now, my truck had been sitting out in 90+ degree weather for about 18 hours before i pulled into the garage and turned up the volume, so it was pretty hot in the cabin. Do you think the heat caused the problems, or can the amp just not feed the components at higher volumes?


My truck does this when the battery is cold. 
The sub amp pulls all the power and the voltage dips on the highs amp making it shut down for a moment. Adding a super cap to the sub helped a LOT. I've ordered a better battery that isn't a finicky about cold weather. Basically your pulling more power than your car can provide to both amps at rhe same time and one is protecting itself. You can kinda tune around it or turn the gain on your bass amp down, or both amps and it will stop but if you want as much volume as possible you will need to make eltrical system upgrades. Big three, battery, super capacitor. You may not have to do all of them but you'll have to do something if you want 100 percent volume. Is your power wire to yours amps large enough? That's where I'd start and make sure you have very good grounding points.


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