# Accidentally drilled into the gas tank. How do I fix it?



## BongoFury (Oct 10, 2012)

I was fastening my sub enclosure down in the trunk and I thought I was sure that the spot I wanted to bolt into was not behind the gas tank. I was wrong. I unknowingly drilled two 5-1/6" holes into the sheet metal and straight into the gas tank. I didn't realize this at first but then I soon smelled gasoline. None was leaking out anywhere but the smell was very strong. Now when I drive the whole care reeks of gasoline.

So how do I plug up these holes? I was thinking of using epoxy.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

metal of plastic tank?


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## qwertydude (Dec 22, 2008)

I would use a gas resistant RTV silicone and on top of it I would put a small square of metal maybe an inch square just to reinforce it. Gasoline can creep under it if you have a flaw in the epoxy or the part flexes a little and the epoxy cracks a bit at the edge and gasoline will creep under the joint.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

qwertydude said:


> I would use a gas resistant RTV silicone and on top of it I would put a small square of metal maybe an inch square just to reinforce it. Gasoline can creep under it if you have a flaw in the epoxy or the part flexes a little and the epoxy cracks a bit at the edge and gasoline will creep under the joint.


what he said.. Gasoline is extremely thin. I would go over it a few times just to be safe. whatever you do dont try to weld it shut


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## FartinInTheTub (May 25, 2010)

I would go down to the wrecking yard and get a gas tank. I wouldn't mess around now that you punctured your tank. Who knows, It could be an easy switch out. Just make sure to drain it if you decide to replace the tank.


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

new tank..
duh.. rtv even supposedly gasoline resistant is not!!!
plastic tanks can be removed and ultrasonically welded 
go to junk yard n get u a new tank..


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

FartinInTheTub said:


> I would go down to the wrecking yard and get a gas tank. I wouldn't mess around now that you punctured your tank. Who knows, It could be an easy switch out. Just make sure to drain it if you decide to replace the tank.


I agree, would be stupid to die over god damn gas tank. i would weld it if metal or replace if plastic, I attempted to fix gas leak in motorcycles tried every freaking silicon available with no luck, drain it wash with running water, weld it properly and remember your mistake, better then get one spark and die in flames.


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## Slammer (Nov 14, 2010)

Victor_inox said:


> I agree, would be stupid to die over god damn gas tank. i would weld it if metal or replace if plastic, I attempted to fix gas leak in motorcycles tried every freaking silicon available with no luck, drain it wash with running water, weld it properly and remember your mistake, better then get one spark and die in flames.


x2
Replace the tank. There are a lot of things that I would be okay with patching holes in, a gas tank is NOT on that list. Better safe than sorry bro.


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## Runeknight95 (Oct 3, 2012)

Also think about the parts of the metal that went into the tank, not sure if that will get "clogged" into the fuel line/pump and filter and worse the injector


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Two options.
1) Drop the tank and have it professionally (ie. not you cousin randy in the parking lot of his apartment complex) repaired/welded, either sonic or traditionally.

2) Drop the tank and find a new one at the local U-pull.

Use the time inbetween to weld a couple nutts to the bottom of the trunk floor so you can use bolts and lock washers to secure the encloseure. 

Lesson learned, without getting to expirence what third degree burns feel like.


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## for2nato (Apr 3, 2012)

So I'm going out on a limb here and assuming you mentioned 5/16". Drop the tank after you drive out all the gas. Get a tap the next size up and some pan head screws to match with nylon washers. Tap the holes, apply small amount of silicon around the holes then put a screw with a nylon washer in. don't over tighten or you'll strip the screws. Allow the silicon to cure and reassemble.
Its on the top so you'll be fine

Sent From Your Moms Closet Using TapaTalk Pro


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## mitchyz250f (May 14, 2005)

There are several ways to go. First one is to get a new or used gas tank. The second is a patch. A quick Google search yelded that a steel patch and epoxy would be a permenent fix. You can call Loctite or 3M and ask for the best epoxy for the application. JB Weld *WILL* also work.

From the JB Weld website:
Question: Is J-B Weld resistant to water and/or gasoline?
Answer: When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStik or WaterWeld.
FAQs » JB Weld

I don't know what is in this kit, but this has a good chance of working too:
Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer
http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html


Regarding the particles in the gas, not good. But you filter can easily handle it and the particals are to large to 'clog' it.

You can make a permanent repair with labor or with science. Science will save you $300 and about 5 hours (calling junk yards, going to junk yards, finding out they didn't have the right part at the junk yard, making more calls to junk yards and 3 hours installation.


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## donnieL72 (Jun 20, 2012)

for2nato said:


> So I'm going out on a limb here and assuming you mentioned 5/16". Drop the tank after you drive out all the gas. Get a tap the next size up and some pan head screws to match with nylon washers. Tap the holes, apply small amount of silicon around the holes then put a screw with a nylon washer in. don't over tighten or you'll strip the screws. Allow the silicon to cure and reassemble.
> Its on the top so you'll be fine
> 
> Sent From Your Moms Closet Using TapaTalk Pro


If it's a metal tank, there isn't enough material to tap. Sheet metal the thickness of a thread on a bolt doesn't do well when tapping. Even plastic tanks are really thin. I haven't found any silicone of any type that will keep gas from seeping through.

Get a new tank. It's well worth the piece of mind knowing that it's sealed up properly.


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## for2nato (Apr 3, 2012)

Union Ironworker here. Sheet metal is most definitely tap capable. Silicon is not the seal, nylon washer is. Silicon will simply help stop vibrations from backing out the machine screws. Being as the bite isn't really big they wont exactly be torqued down. And once the screw is inserted the thread gap will be small enough to stop any leak be itself. Bear in mind that this is on the top of his tank and will see very little contact with any gas under pressure. 

And for reference, the majority of fuel cells on the road today are metal shell with a plastic liner. Any motor company that uses a strictly plastic tank will never get my money. Its a fireball waiting to happen. 

Just thought I would add. I have performed this repair as described in a hatchback the I sent a screw through while mounting an 8ft^3 wall for 18's in. After 4 years it still was like I fixed it the day before. And cost is around 15 bucks.

Sent From Your Moms Closet Using TapaTalk Pro


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

A stitch in Time would have saved Nine , that being said ...

Use a screw twice as big as hole drilled and some epoxy [ just run it in, in an attempt to fill and seal hole would be cheapest way ( E.W.P = easiest way possible ).

More expensive way = undo fastenings and drop tank , patch or replace tank , reattach.

G'luck !


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

I did this once on my acura. plumbers epoxy fixed it a couple minutes. stuff has about 15 minutes work time and dries hard as a rock.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Fix it correctly, repair professionally or replace it.

I know if I dropped the tank in a car and found that some person had drilled through it then fixed it halfass with silicone and screws I'd be pissed.

This is why I'm mortally terrified of used cars when I don't know the previous owner.


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## JeremyC (Dec 20, 2007)

I second JB Weld. 

Rough sand the spot, mix up some epoxy, and apply generously. 

Let it set for 24 hours before driving. 

You "could" use JB weld and a screw. I would perfer that over silicone and a screw.


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## mitchyz250f (May 14, 2005)

JeremyC said:


> I second JB Weld.
> 
> Rough sand the spot, mix up some epoxy, and apply generously.
> 
> ...


I would do that. If you do a Google search you will find that there are many epoxy products made specifically for the application.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

Cover it with AlphaDamp


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## dablooz (Sep 27, 2011)

chad said:


> Fix it correctly, repair professionally or replace it.
> 
> I know if I dropped the tank in a car and found that some person had drilled through it then fixed it halfass with silicone and screws I'd be pissed.
> 
> *This is why I'm mortally terrified of used cars when I don't know the previous owner.*


No ****, huh? I pray to God that this wasn't on a Benz or a BMW...

I mean hey I made my fair share of install mistakes and I know the feeling.

I'd get it fixed professionally. I don't trust epoxy would stand up well to gasoline in the long term. You also should do something about it fast. If you have any power cables near those holes, and they just happen to short to ground, well let's just say things ain't gonna be pretty.


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## JeremyC (Dec 20, 2007)

dablooz said:


> . I don't trust epoxy would stand up well to gasoline in the long term. You also should do something about it fast. If you have any power cables near those holes, and they just happen to short to ground, well let's just say things ain't gonna be pretty.


The right epoxy will hold up to gasoline without a problem. As long as the surface is properly prepped and cleaned. 

We use epoxy to seal the top panels on the predator's fuel cells. 

Same with F16s. And the F16 uses a pressurized fuel system. 

The Predator runs on high dollar gas, the F16 runs on JP8+100 (basically kerosene)


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## evo9 (Jul 6, 2005)

Take it from a master certified ASE tech. REPLACE the tank!


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## qwertydude (Dec 22, 2008)

Personally what I've always done is solder it with plumbing solder, prepped it well by sanding to bare metal, to solder onto steel you need a good high mass soldering iron and zinc chloride acid flux. This way you're not using a torch and risk blowing yourself up.


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## 04silverz (May 28, 2008)

Repair it properly or replace I say.
I've had his happen ( from a professional shop) and they used some sort of epoxy on it. Came off within days just as I was about to drive from Texas to Florida. On top of fact they didn't even tell me. Not sure what they used, if it was right kind of epoxy, but I say fix it right using welding


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## chaser9478 (Aug 16, 2011)

JB Weld......or duct tape....just kidding about the duct tape....

I put a hole in my jeeps tank and JB Welded it 2.5 years ago. I really doubt your vehicle will ever take a beating like my jeep.....Never had an issue.


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

is the damn tanks plastic or steel??
jb weld can=be used for temp repair on STEEL..
no epoxy will hold to plastic without vibrating loose over time
yea maybe some aerospace **** that is made to bond plastic.

PLASTIC tanks are ultrasonically welded
they do make a patch kit that chemically bonds the plastic but you have to know type of plastic.. tanks are made from two different kinds. ya have to have right adhesive and right patch.

drop the tank if its plastic and put a dam pipe plug and cold glue a pipe plug made of the same material HDPE or nylon into the tank if u hit a thick part of tank you MAY be able to tap enuff thread to get the pipe plug to seal.


oh they do make plastic welders you can rent.. but u got to know tank material..20 yrs of fixing dang jap crap plastic motorcycle tanks.. the plastice welders were the only thing wefound to be permanent..


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## mitchyz250f (May 14, 2005)

Fiixing that hole with epoxy is one correct way to fix that hole. Take it from me, a mechanical engineer for 32 years.

"I don't trust epoxy." Why not? 

I used to work for Yardney Electric Inc., manufacturer of some truly bad ass batteries for the military... NASA uses epoxy all over the shuttle. Epoxy is used in every ICBM made, at least US made. Every torpedo made in the last 40 years has epoxy in it. You couldn't put a submarine together without epoxy. 

All the carbon fiber in Stealth Fighter and F22’s are made of carbon fiber and epoxy. We should call up the army and tell them they screwed and tell them to do it right.

Suzuki used epoxy to bond swing arms together in their DRZ dirt bike. Swingarms are very heavily loaded. Take a 70 foot jump and that epoxy lets go and you are totally screwed. Some pretty serious prodcut liability folks.

I don't trust epoxy. Do you trust scientific testing? I called up a chemist friend that works for 3M (I used to work for 3M) and talked to him about their test procedures. Epoxy's are cured and then soaked in solvents (if that is applicable) at elevated temperatures for YEARS. Every 10 Celsius increase in temperature doubles chemical reaction time. Room temp is 25C. Testing is typically conducted at 55C, so every year at 55C is equal to 8 years real times testing. ater conditioning the test sample is then put through a series of applicable tests, adhesion, toughness, flexibility and whatever... This is called accelerated aging testing. 

‘I don't trust epoxy.’ That is like me saying the earth looks flat from where I am standing and because it does I can ignore science. 

If I chose the correct epoxy for an application, and prepare the surface properly and cured it properly I will have confidence that the product will work properly; especially if the product is from 3M or Loctite or Permatex (a division of Loctitie). 

I added an oil return to my oil pan for a turbo. It was welded and it leaked. I had the guy (a welder) weld it again and it still leaked. Not as much as before, but it still leaked. 

So now I don't trust welding. That is my opinion and the last thing I need is any science to back it up.


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## XaznKewLguyX (Sep 5, 2007)

I agree fix it properly!


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

One more thing to consider about patches. Suppose it works fine, for now. Two years go by and BAM! you get rear ended, 100% other drivers fault. The patch that had been doing it's job for two years, fails. Car goes up in flames, total loss. Insuance company investigates the loss, finds the patches, and informs you that "due to non D.O.T. approved alterations to the fuel cell, we regret to inform you that you have effectively voided your policy with our company. Have a nice day." **** out of luck, and that's if there are no pending lawsuits. Fixing a gas tank like mentioned was fine, fifty years ago, but I digress to admit it is a different day and age, where those types of fixes come with alot of strings attached.


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## XaznKewLguyX (Sep 5, 2007)

SHAGGS said:


> One more thing to consider about patches. Suppose it works fine, for now. Two years go by and BAM! you get rear ended, 100% other drivers fault. The patch that had been doing it's job for two years, fails. Car goes up in flames, total loss. Insuance company investigates the loss, finds the patches, and informs you that "due to non D.O.T. approved alterations to the fuel cell, we regret to inform you that you have effectively voided your policy with our company. Have a nice day." **** out of luck, and that's if there are no pending lawsuits. Fixing a gas tank like mentioned was fine, fifty years ago, but I digress to admit it is a different day and age, where those types of fixes come with alot of strings attached.


Thats a good point..


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## qwertydude (Dec 22, 2008)

That pretty much never happens, first if the car bursts into flames due to a big collision the evidence will pretty much burn away into a carbonized pile of mess. They don't go through with a fine tooth comb looking for any suspicious tiny mods.

This is especially true with motorcycles. So many of them get custom modified everything all with possibly questionable workmanship. I'm talking welds on frames, custom modded and welded gas tanks and yet when they get in an accident with so much as a scratched frame, automatic write off, no questions asked and you can even buy the bike back from the insurance company.

The insurance company already made their money off yours and other's premiums. If they tried every time to look for reasons to deny coverage and have to prove it in court should the client sue, they'd have lost all their profit off you just with the lawyer fees and court costs. It basically costs them less to write your car off because you've been in an accident terrible enough to send your car in flames and they'll just collect and make their money back from either the other person's insurance or raising the premiums if the other person has the same insurance.

I mean it's just basically a tiny pinhole. Look up Por-15 tank sealer, people have been treating motorcycle gas tank pinholes with it forever and that stuff is basically just an epoxy anyways. No one has ever lost an insurance settlement because they used Por-15.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Once my car went over a log at high speed on an interstate on a mountain pass. (My philosophy is always keep cool in such situations and go over the sudden obstacle instead of making sudden braking or steering moves, specially when on one side you have an 18 wheeler and on the other side a ditch). There was a loud knock from the bottom of the car. I thought it was no problem, but later the car run out of gas, but I managed to reach a populated town. The gas tank hole was pretty big, may be at least an inch in diameter. Next day I found an experienced welder shop. They welded my gas tank and put it back on the car. The cost was less than $200. A brand new gas tank from AutoZone would cost the same $200, but I'd have to pay someone to install it.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Steel tanks can be fixed with a big ass soldering iron and lead (no flame, no boom)
Plastic tanks are pretty thick...just tap 1/8 npt and put a brass plug in there.
end of story


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

good get us some missile epoxy then.. ive welded my share if DRZ swingarms look at one 5 yrs old.. u can see where the joint is separating I got over 30+ yrs..and 1 got 2 ama #1 plates to back up that 30+ yrs.. if your welder cant fix that is a problem with wrong technique rod or incompatible metals.. no different than picking wrong glue....

the proper epoxy might hold IF everything is done RIGHT and you get the RIGHT epoxy..
most of that military crap is not COMMERCIALLY available.. I know .. I repair airplanes now. and we cant get it.. ya know the wing skins that are glues on.. you only have X amount of time and can only apply in humidity controlled environments to glue the wing skins on.. or guess what.. the joint WILL fail...

yea i freaked when I was about 16 n saw the dude fixing my aunts 63 ford falcon tank with a torch and soldering iron with gas in the tank..LOL


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

If you have to ask, then you should just have it replaced.


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## avanti1960 (Sep 24, 2011)

you really need to drop the tank and see what kind of material and surface you have where the holes are. if it's sheet-metal you could use 
Loctite Fixmaster Fast Set Steel Putty. Loctite is the best stuff in the business. 
If it's plastic, see how thick the material is- if it's thick enough then you could tap it with a pipe thread tap and seal it with a threaded plug and some teflon tape.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Teflon tape dissolves in gasoline over time. Use ptfe paste that is rated for gasoline!!


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## 12voltguy (Oct 5, 2011)

for2nato said:


> So I'm going out on a limb here and assuming you mentioned 5/16". Drop the tank *after you drive out all the gas*. Get a tap the next size up and some pan head screws to match with nylon washers. Tap the holes, apply small amount of silicon around the holes then put a screw with a nylon washer in. don't over tighten or you'll strip the screws. Allow the silicon to cure and reassemble.
> Its on the top so you'll be fine
> 
> Sent From Your Moms Closet Using TapaTalk Pro


WTF,lol


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## jackedgrand (Oct 5, 2012)

i did this to my jeep and realized it because i started throwing a evap leak code. i dropped the tank and used aircraft grade epoxy from work thats like $75 a kit with some flat metal covers pieces. it worked perfect and has for 2 years now and hasnt thrown a code since.


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## HemiSam (Sep 2, 2012)

dropping a tank is a PITA but you have to repair it well. Take it to a pro if you're not confident, and best of luck.

HS


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

All I will tell you is get it fixed one way or another. 

This stuff will seal it, not sure if it lasts forever but sure it does for years. I used it many times on gas and it works. Local stores here have it. You can put this stuff on when gas is running out of a hole and it will plug it up, no kidding.
Seal-All Adhesive Product Information


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

teflon tape DOES not dissolve in gasoline..PTFE is TEFLON!..
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene The best known brand name of PTFE is Teflon by DuPont Co.
man u guys need chemistry 101 at a good skool..
look before you asswipes spout off .. know what ur talking about before you get somebody hurt.

can anybody on this thread tell me what the minimum acceptable thread depth is for pipe threads according to astm???? if not STFU! you can seal a plastic tank with pipe plug provide you have minimum adequate thread engagement.!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

The drunken savant has spoken...we are all asswipes !


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

yep im drunk just not fn stoopid..!


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

tnbubba said:


> can anybody on this thread tell me what the minimum acceptable thread depth is for pipe threads according to astm????


somewhere in the neighborhood of 6-1/2 to 7-1/2 threads


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## tnbubba (Mar 1, 2008)

brownie points for shaggs for looking it up!
actually it depends on the pipe thread dia but ya got the idea dude!


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Didn't have to look it up. I am a machinist. We make alot of parts with pipe taps, cooling manifolds for diecast applications, fuel delivery parts, stuff like that.
And yes it does depend on hole/tap size. I was going by a 5/16 hole.


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## vettefiend (Apr 4, 2009)

I say replace the tank. This way you don't have to worry if you chose the correct solder, or tap size, or epoxy, or if it was too humid, or if it was the correct thread depth, or if the teflon was ok, or if the patch broke after you just drive over that giant log, and any other options from this thread that I missed.
I'm all for diy and Macgyvering stuff but not when it comes to a gas tank and the safety of others in my car.


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

douggiestyle said:


> If you have to ask, then you should just have it replaced.


I meant to say: "It doesn't matter if you repair it or replace it. If you have to ask, then you should just have a professional who knows what he's doing fix it. Get a professional opinion, get some quotes, and get it done right."


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## BongoFury (Oct 10, 2012)

A little update:

I brought the car to a shop to get an estimate to repair the holes. They wanted $1200 to fix it. That's way out of my budget.

I patched the holes myself with sound deadener and called it good. Cheap, easy fix. No more gas smell!


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## mitchyz250f (May 14, 2005)

I don't think the sound deadener will last very long.

Gasketing Materials - vegetable fiber, compressed, natural, synthetic

"Butyl rubber is a copolymer of isobutylene and isoprene. It has exceptionally low gas and moisture permeability and outstanding resistance to heat aging, weather, ozone, chemical attack, flexing, abrasion and tearing. It has good resistance to phosphate ester based hydraulic fluids, and has excellent electrical isolation performance. Butyl is not recommended for use when in contact with petroleum oils and fluids. The temperature range is -55˚C to +120˚C (-67˚F to +248˚F). We carry only in sheet material."


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

BongoFury said:


> A little update:
> 
> I brought the car to a shop to get an estimate to repair the holes. They wanted $1200 to fix it. That's way out of my budget.
> 
> I patched the holes myself with sound deadener and called it good. Cheap, easy fix. No more gas smell!



I hope you didn't use peel 'n seal. No really, you should get that tank replaced. Sell an amplifier if you have to.

Now that I think about it, I call BS. This is a serious problem and the guy couldn't reply to the advice given and only has two posts on this forum. Hmmm...


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

we should watch the news for a car to go boom in NJ.
sound deadener, really?peel n stick of best known to men butil based one doesn`t matter they will not hold gasoline vaports for long, wait for a warm weather, gasoline expands and vapors escape through that hole, tiny spark outside of the hole and boom, Ionly hope you will be alone in this vehicle when that happened.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

BongoFury said:


> A little update:
> 
> I brought the car to a shop to get an estimate to repair the holes. They wanted $1200 to fix it. That's way out of my budget.
> 
> I patched the holes myself with sound deadener and called it good. Cheap, easy fix. No more gas smell!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)




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## BongoFury (Oct 10, 2012)

chad said:


>


Nope. Just trying to save money. I don't have $1200 to get it fixed professionally. I just got laid-off. Times are hard. I had the sound deadening on hand already. I didn't just put one layer on. I used multiple layers.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

BongoFury said:


> Nope. Just trying to save money. I don't have $1200 to get it fixed professionally. I just got laid-off. Times are hard. I had the sound deadening on hand already. I didn't just put one layer on. I used multiple layers.


understood, but you can do better than sound deadener yourself.
find a gas resistant gasket,curt round piece about an inch in diameter, drill a hole in the center with same size bit, what was that 5/16? about 8mm .buy ivets herehttp://www.amazon.com/CRL-16-18-Rivet-Nut/dp/B001G1E87S or whatever diameter you need, I`d go with aluminum rivet, easier to compresshttp://www.amazon.com/100-pc-Aluminum-Nut-Rivet-Pack/dp/B004P4DK5Y/ref=pd_sbs_indust_8


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

IBcivic said:


>


Visual is much more convincing


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

I thought gas tanks build up some pressure inside...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> I thought gas tanks build up some pressure inside...


Yup

Sent from my Sony Tablet S using Tapatalk 2


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> I thought gas tanks build up some pressure inside...


exactly why I proposed rivet to fix it. rivet with some gasket and it will be safe and sealed.


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## Eddyirie (Feb 7, 2020)

mitchyz250f said:


> I don't think the sound deadener will last very long.
> 
> Gasketing Materials - vegetable fiber, compressed, natural, synthetic
> 
> "Butyl rubber is a copolymer of isobutylene and isoprene. It has exceptionally low gas and moisture permeability and outstanding resistance to heat aging, weather, ozone, chemical attack, flexing, abrasion and tearing. It has good resistance to phosphate ester based hydraulic fluids, and has excellent electrical isolation performance. Butyl is not recommended for use when in contact with petroleum oils and fluids. The temperature range is -55˚C to +120˚C (-67˚F to +248˚F). We carry only in sheet material."


I use gas to clean off butyl from sound deadner


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## F150Man (Apr 14, 2017)

Eddyirie said:


> I use gas to clean off butyl from sound deadner


7.5 years old thread.


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