# Optima Yellow top won't hold a charge



## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

I picked up a Yellow Top battery about a year and a half ago and it's been working great, but I came out after letting my truck sit for 3 days and it was dead and wouldn't start. 

I did accidentally leave my system running twice which drained the batter a while back and also left my lights on one previous time also causing the battery to get drained. 

All in all that was 3 separate times the battery was drained to the point where it didn't start, but after a jump worked fine. Unfortunately if I leave my truck sitting more than 2 days I can't start it. Do you think the Yellow top is dead because it was drained 4 times now or should I or should I try and look for another possible cause?? None of my stereo equipment is left running when I remove the key, but the batter still won't start the truck after sitting a couple of days.


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## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

The Yellow Top is a Deep Cycle Battery meaning you can drain it and fully recharge it many times. They do eventually go bad and have to be replaced.


If your Battery is draining from sitting for two days there is something else going on.


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

That's what I thought, but wasn't sure if the batteries age would warrant a replacement. I did confirm that nothing is being left on and the volt display on the battery terminal shows 14+ when I turn off the vehicle. I did confirm that none of the amps or the radio is on, but sure enough the battery is dead after 2 days. 

Maybe the alternator?


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

You need to charge it properly, if not it wont have its original charge capability and will exhibit the problems your having. You probably deep discharged it which is not recommended for the yellow tops. They should really never be discharged below 10.5volts. Here's an excerpt from Optima if you did deep discharge it.

If an OPTIMA battery is deeply discharged (below 10.5 volts), most basic chargers will not supply a charge. Also keep in mind that an OPTIMA battery will not recharge properly if treated as a regular flooded or gel battery. To charge the battery, you can wire a second fully charged automotive battery (12+volts) to the discharged AGM in parallel (+ to + and – to –). Then hook up the charger to the deeply discharged battery, setting the charger at 10 amps. Leave for two hours, monitoring frequently. During this process, if the discharged battery gets very hot or if it is venting (hissing sound from vents), then stop this process immediately. When the discharged battery reaches 10.5 volts or more, remove the standard battery and continue charging the AGM until fully charged.

For normal charging, a relatively low current, such as one or two amps, can work well, but when the battery has been deeply discharged, some sulfation of the battery plates may have occurred. If you charge at 10 amps, the higher current will help to break up this sulfation.

If you have an automatic charger, let it run until the charger indicates charging is complete. If you have a manual charger, you can get a rough estimate of the charging time in hours of a completely discharged battery (11.2 volts) by multiplying the capacity (amp hours or Ah) of the battery by 1.2. If your battery is not completely discharged, the time would be less.

In most cases these steps will recover an AGM battery. It’s OK for the AGM battery to get slightly warm during the charging process. If it’s hot to the touch, it means there’s a short and the process should be discontinued.
Back to Top


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

Also don't assume just because everything is off that no leaching is occurring. Use a DMM to check how much your car is leaching from your battery. Anything over 20 milliamperes is probably excessive unless you have large capacitors as well.


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

RNBRAD said:


> To charge the battery, you can wire a second fully charged automotive battery (12+volts) to the discharged AGM in parallel (+ to + and – to –). Then hook up the charger to the deeply discharged battery, setting the charger at 10 amps. Leave for two hours, monitoring frequently. During this process, if the discharged battery gets very hot or if it is venting (hissing sound from vents), then stop this process immediately. When the discharged battery reaches 10.5 volts or more, remove the standard battery and continue charging the AGM until fully charged.


Wow thanks for the info. Ok the big question now is how do I find or get someone to charge it for me with a charger? Is this a service auto repair shops offer or maybe a pep boys or something? 

Maybe even AAA?


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## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

LGHT_ said:


> Wow thanks for the info. Ok the big question now is how do I find or get someone to charge it for me with a charger? Is this a service auto repair shops offer or maybe a pep boys or something?
> 
> Maybe even AAA?


If you have tried to charge it and it wont hold a charge it needs to be replaced!


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

What I'm curious about is the 14v+ reading when car is off? Maybe some inaccuracy in you're reading but should read around 12.5 or so when fully charged. Anyhow I would put a trickle charger on it for a good 10 to 12 hrs and see if it will completely charge it. I recommend the battery tender Jr. I keep one on my optima all the time but then again I have a 60 milliampere continuous draw and it will be dead in the same time. Like I said though, you could have a healthy battery and a power leach somewhere in your car. Disconnecting your battery and using a DMM while connecting the battery through the DMM will allow you to monitor the current draw your car is pulling from the battery. Buy a 5 dollar DMM find a YouTube vid on how to do it and this may save you a lot of trouble in the long run. Plus everyone should have a cheap DMM and maybe a Fluke back-up for critical stuff.


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

RNBRAD said:


> What I'm curious about is the 14v+ reading when car is off?


Actually I think that was AFTER the car is started. I'll have to turn it off and see what the meter says. Also is that digital meter terminal a good way to tell if something is draining the battery when it is off or should I get a battery tender after all?



RNBRAD said:


> Anyhow I would put a trickle charger on it for a good 10 to 12 hrs and see if it will completely charge it. I recommend the battery tender Jr.


Ok I may do that. However after looking at the Battery Tender website I'm still not sure how it works. Do I need a 2nd battery to charge my dead one or do I plug the Battery Tender into an AC outlet?


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

michaelsil1 said:


> If you have tried to charge it and it wont hold a charge it needs to be replaced!


I technically haven't tried "charging" it with a battery charger of any kind. Basically I just assumed driving to and from work would "charge" it, but after 2 weeks letting it sit 3 days I still ended up with a dead battery.


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## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

thats why the optima comes with instructions


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I have a feeling that you have a bad battery.


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## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

abusiveDAD said:


> thats why the optima comes with instructions


We don't need no stinking instructions! :deal2:


If you don't maintain your Yellow Top it will dye an early death.


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

LGHT_ said:


> Actually I think that was AFTER the car is started. I'll have to turn it off and see what the meter says. Also is that digital meter terminal a good way to tell if something is draining the battery when it is off or should I get a battery tender after all?
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I may do that. However after looking at the Battery Tender website I'm still not sure how it works. Do I need a 2nd battery to charge my dead one or do I plug the Battery Tender into an AC outlet?


That tells me your alt is fine but your car may not be charging sufficeintly (depending on your power usage) or for as long as needed. Check your voltage with car off. A digital Multi Meter like below is what you need. You don't need to spend but just a few dollars, just make sure it has a digital read out. This can help you diagnose your own problems, this is a DIY forum so learn to use one if you don't know how, you will thank me and yourself later. If you want to take it to a mechanic, that's fine but a few dollars and you can figure out what you will and won't need yourself. I'd pull it out of the car or even charge it in the car with a trickle charger. If you still have problems, then maybe it's time for a new battery. Optima's are great batteries but deep cycle and dead cycle is two different cycles. Optima's won't bounce back dead over and over, it will take a toll on the battery, but to bring it back to "it's potential" whatever that is, it will need a long slow charge as recommended.


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

RNBRAD said:


> That tells me your alt is fine but your car may not be charging sufficeintly (depending on your power usage) or for as long as needed. Check your voltage with car off.


I have a meter connected to the batter terminal that looks like this. 










when I got out it said 12.46. If I let it sit for a day and check it again would that be the same as using a fluke?


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

michaelsil1 said:


> We don't need no stinking instructions! :deal2:
> 
> 
> If you don't maintain your Yellow Top it will dye an early death.


haha I actually went to a drive through spot where they put it in and I drove off in a matter of minutes. I wouldn't know what to do with the instructions anyway I'm an IT guy all this mechanical stuff is foreign to me.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

michaelsil1 said:


> We don't need no stinking instructions! :deal2:


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

LGHT_ said:


> I have a meter connected to the batter terminal that looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well if your looking at just voltage readings then both should have similiar reading. However, your voltage reading will not detect a constant current leaching from your battery. Only a DMM can do this. If your at 12.46 though, I'm betting your battery is fully charged but not sure that it can last under load. Read your voltometer with the stereo running car off and see if your battery can maintain very long. This can help tell your battery condition. If it drops voltage pretty quick, your battery might be toast.


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## LGHT_ (Jan 12, 2011)

Ok thanks for the tips. I checked it this morning and it was 12.16. I'll test with the car off and radio on and try and see how quickly it drops. I'll make a not of the reading every 5 min for 30 min.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube


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## MUGWUMP (Jan 29, 2012)

How about a load test to see if he's wasting his time/$$ trying to charge it?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

MUGWUMP said:


> How about a load test to see if he's wasting his time/$$ trying to charge it?


Bingo... go to autozone, they do it for free.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

For what it's worth , The problem with the red and yellow tops are they just die fast like one minute it works next minute it's dead . 

Usually last 2 years tops , even with no system installed. I quit selling them and switched to XS Power


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## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

DAT said:


> For what it's worth , The problem with the red and yellow tops are they just die fast like one minute it works next minute it's dead .
> 
> Usually last 2 years tops , even with no system installed. I quit selling them and switched to XS Power


I think I got four years out of my Yellow Top, one minute it worked next minute *dead*.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

optima's quality has gone down for sure...

my experience with it is that these days, its luck of the draw. you get one that works forever, as the one in my own subaru did and a few others; then you may get one that dies with in a year.

b


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

My red top lasted a year, my 1st yellow about a yr as well. My warranty replacement is 10yrs now and holds a charge like brand new. I really think it depends on if the battery has ever been dropped below 10volts and for how long and how often. I started taking better care of my optima's, keeping them topped off and regularly making sure they get a full charge. So like I say, I'm going on 10yrs. I think "maintenance" is the key variable here missing from many Optima owners. I went thru diehards, interstates, Optima's almost yearly till I started maintaining them better. I think many of us have significant system draws from our batteries and many times we have short drive times not always allowing our batteries to fully charge or recover.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

If I have to "Maintenance" a SLA battery other than driving the car... I want nothing to do with it.


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## Richv72 (May 11, 2012)

I would get a sears diehard platinum, 4 yr free replacement warranty, no questions asked.


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## RNBRAD (Oct 30, 2012)

chad said:


> If I have to "Maintenance" a SLA battery other than driving the car... I want nothing to do with it.


It's system dependent. Some of us don't have the option unless we don't mind replacing batteries every year or so. I've been there done that. I prewired a plug in the grill, takes 2 seconds to plug it up. Also great for car off listening.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I have an iota power supply with the IQ4 module in it for that... Mainly for car-off stuff and I have a tiny ass battery. Best thing I ever did. Power-con connector up inside the rear quarter outside.

the car seems to go thru flooded batteries pretty quick.. Got 5 years out of my last AGM, just replaced it last weekend.

On top of that, Illinois is not pretty on batteries. The zero degree winters and 100 degree summers seem to do them in.


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## jp88 (Jun 25, 2007)

In my experience optima batteries aren't very tolerant at all of being run completely dead. once or twice and there is no bringing them back.


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