# Sound deadening an Audi A4?



## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

The bose audio sounds damn good with the RSN-E Navi unit but would sound deadening help out any? I would guess from the amount of midbass the the car has stock the doors must be sealed up good or maybe the drivers are in some kind of enclosures. Im somewhat satisfied with the sound quality and the output but if deadening would help, I willl go ahead and get to installing it. 

On a different note. If I wanted to add just a sub would it be best to tap into the harness before or after the bose amp? The car has a sensor that adjust the volume according to the cabin noise or some crap like that so if I got my outputs after the bose amp wouldnt it still adjust the volume through the single its self? I may be way off but I was just thinking about it.

Thanks
Mike


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## bcramer (Mar 17, 2008)

Mike Hall said:


> The bose audio sounds damn good with the RSN-E Navi unit but would sound deadening help out any? I would guess from the amount of midbass the the car has stock the doors must be sealed up good or maybe the drivers are in some kind of enclosures. Im somewhat satisfied with the sound quality and the output but if deadening would help, I willl go ahead and get to installing it.
> 
> On a different note. If I wanted to add just a sub would it be best to tap into the harness before or after the bose amp? The car has a sensor that adjust the volume according to the cabin noise or some crap like that so if I got my outputs after the bose amp wouldnt it still adjust the volume through the single its self? I may be way off but I was just thinking about it.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, 

I also have the RNS-E. The difference is, I can't wait to rip out the entire Bose system and replace it with some quality stuff and a quality install. 

On audizine.com there is a writeup of replacing the door speakers. I don't recall them being in any sort of enclosure. However, the OP did not using any deadening material and thought that the doors were already deadened pretty well from the factory. So as far as that goes, it would be the old adage that deadening can never hurt...

For adding the sub, you will need to tap the wires after the Bose amp. This is because there is no Output on the RNS-E for a sub. The Bose amp takes both rull-range rear channels and converts it into a mono sub output. 

The process for doing this is quite simple.

You will either need an LOC (line out converter) or an amp that has speaker level inputs to accomplish the above. 

You can add a sub by tapping the line level outputs of the RNS-E. However, it will be a lot more complicated and costly than tapping after the amp. For this, you would need to somehow create a mono channel and use something to block all frequencies above ~70hz or so.


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

... or you just use a real amp to start with and then the line outs from the RNS-E. you might well need it re-coding, as it may be set up to "sound good" with the bose.

Bret


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## bcramer (Mar 17, 2008)

bretti_kivi said:


> ... or you just use a real amp to start with and then the line outs from the RNS-E. you might well need it re-coding, as it may be set up to "sound good" with the bose.
> 
> Bret


The RNS-E is supposed to output a flat signal when it has the Bose system attached down the line. It's really just a matter of grounding one pin on one of the harnesses actually.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

I'm not real familiar with the A-4, but cars in that class are generally pretty well deadened for *the system that came from the factory*. When you start adding speakers or increasing power, you may need to increase the treatment.


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

a little sound deadening in an a4










actually about 300 sq ft.

It makes a HUGE difference in... everything.
your car will be much more enjoyable any which way you can bring up.

(I also have about 48 cans of low expanding foam. My Audi is quiet on the inside, and 3" straight exhaust/BAT/Tial open atmosphere BOV/open dump Tial 44mm WB (screamer pipe) OB-friggin-noxiously loud on the outside.

from mild to wild, a sound deadened car is flat out: more enjoyable


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

JK35 said:


> actually about 300 sq ft.
> 
> It makes a HUGE difference in... everything.
> your car will be much more enjoyable any which way you can bring up.
> ...


Keep in mind that 300 ft² of FatMat is comparable in performance to less than 75 ft² of Dynamat Xtreme or something similar, so not exactly an over the top sound deadening project.


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

it comes apart alot easier than you think. just remember this: Your Audi is like a big box of riddles... each part has it's own unique and usually simple means of disassembly/assembly. if you know the steps to take, it is a pleasure to work on. if you don't know, & think you'll "figure it out" -you will, You'll also replace every part you learned the hard way on... because you'll break the sh-- out of whatever you improperly attempt to remove


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I tell you the RNS-E is a huge upgrade over the Symphony II but i have a dynaudio System 340 and a DIYMA 12 that needs a home. LOL I may go ahead and do an install but this has to be one of the best sounds factory audio systems I have ever heard. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

I have two rolls of Raamat as well as 9 yards of ensolite that I had bought for my outback which i traded in on the A4. My Audi is the Avant or Wagon so I will be mounting amps under the rear cover and the sub in the left side pocket. I want Helix amps but I have yet to find a good deal on them yet. 


Thanks for the pictures of your install. That helps me see whats under the carpet and behind the door panels. 

Mike


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Here is my Audi. Avants look bad ass. LOL


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

bcramer said:


> The RNS-E is supposed to output a flat signal when it has the Bose system attached down the line. It's really just a matter of grounding one pin on one of the harnesses actually.


.... and via Vag-Com, each and every one of the radios over and above the 2002 Chorus II / Concert II / Symphony II has a coding to tell it what speaker system is attached, whether it is locally amplified, active, or Bose. That will need to be changed. There's also a code for the A3, A4, A6 and probably A8. 

I'm not convinced about the 2007--> generation, there are lots of changes, I think that they are then using quadlock and life starts getting very difficult. 

Bret


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

When I bought the RNS-E it was re-coded for my car and the options it has. Seems like i saw that the RNS-E did have a flat single to the bose amp which is where all the processing is done. I guess that could be wrong though as I really dont know.

Mike


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## bcramer (Mar 17, 2008)

Mike Hall said:


> When I bought the RNS-E it was re-coded for my car and the options it has. Seems like i saw that the RNS-E did have a flat single to the bose amp which is where all the processing is done. I guess that could be wrong though as I really dont know.
> 
> Mike


No, you are correct. It is supposed to be a flat signal. Someone on audiworld (I can't remember his s/n, but can find it later if you want) did quite a bit of testing with the RNS-E and determined it can indeed ouput a flat signal. 

I don't know for sure because I haven't done my own testing. But it is supposed to be flat.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Are the passive crossovers with the Dynaudio System 340 worth a crap of should I go active? I sure wanted a single amp setup for this car so maybe the passives will work fine. Im still not sure of where I will mount the tweeters and mids but Im leaning towards the kicks just to keep things hidden. I was thinking about a nice powerful 5 channel of some kind to keep things simple. 

Mike


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## m3gunner (Aug 6, 2008)

If you're planning on going active and can swing some time alignment, you can probably get away with the stock locations in the doors to keep things hidden. I've got a Dynaudio set (MD100 + MW150) in each door in my 99 A4 and with a little time alignment, it just rocks... and it's totally hidden.

Only problem is that the tweeters don't really fit that well... so my installer had to take them out of the enclosures (which is weird as there are exposed wires on the back of the driver) to get them into the space in the door for the OEM Blaupunkt tweeters. Totally worth it, though.


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

Mike Hall said:


> I have two rolls of Raamat as well as 9 yards of ensolite that I had bought for my outback which i traded in on the A4. My Audi is the Avant or Wagon so I will be mounting amps under the rear cover and the sub in the left side pocket. I want Helix amps but I have yet to find a good deal on them yet.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the pictures of your install. That helps me see whats under the carpet and behind the door panels.
> ...


You're quite welcome, and there are plenty more where those came from... If there's anything you need to see or know about your scnitzel-burner, just ask. -mine has been taken down as far as one can go, reassembled, and is about to go under the knife again. -most cars, I'd be replacing a couple hundred worth of clips/push-pins and parts in general by this point... VAG cars are so cleverly thought through, that you will just be amazed once you begin your project. -Best Regards


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Do the door panels just pop off or what? I would guess there are a few screws holding things on but are there any hidden screws? I think your B5 A4 is a little different when it comes to the doors or at least the door shells. Maybe Im wrong, I will find out soon.

Mike


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## bcramer (Mar 17, 2008)

Mike Hall said:


> Do the door panels just pop off or what? I would guess there are a few screws holding things on but are there any hidden screws? I think your B5 A4 is a little different when it comes to the doors or at least the door shells. Maybe Im wrong, I will find out soon.
> 
> Mike


Hi Mike, here is a DIY that should help you remove the door panels

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190395


Here is a complete write-up of a stereo upgrade for a B6 Avant. 

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec82-1.shtml

You may also want to pickup a Bentley manual. It will tell you everything you wanted to know and then some about how your car is put together. They can be had for about $50 or so. I think www.ross-tech.com sells them.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Deaden the car. The only place you have any deadening now is on the floor. The roof and doors is where I'd spend my time.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

bcramer said:


> Hi Mike, here is a DIY that should help you remove the door panels
> 
> http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190395
> 
> ...


Thanks for those links. I had not seen the Avant stereo upgrade link before.

I have the Raamat to do the deadening I just need to make the time to do it. Im still searching for how I want to power everything. I would love to go active but then again I sure wanted a single amp setup which would require me to use the passives. Anyone know whats under the dash beside the A pillars? I was thinking about mounting the dynaudio mids up there on the dash covered by some factory looking grill and then mount the tweeters in the pillars. I would rather mount the mids and tweets in the kicks are it would be less work and would be easier to return the car back to stock if needed. 

Thanks
Mike


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