# 4 gauge wire too thick for amp terminals.



## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

I have got a new amp which is CDT's new ACD-4090 Class D amplifier. I am working on some install related modifications but noticed today when trying to hook the 4 gauge power and ground cables to the amp that the amp doesn't have generous size inputs. The wire is too thick and just bunches if I force it. 

The ACD-4090 manual states 4 gauge wire can be used so I'm confused . Is there a trick for making the wire fit into less generous size connectors? Could the wire require a clean cut for better fitment or could the wire require trimming a bit? Would appreciate any tips.


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> I have got a new amp which is CDT's new ACD-4090 Class D amplifier. I am working on some install related modifications but noticed today when trying to hook the 4 gauge power and ground cables to the amp that the amp doesn't have generous size inputs. The wire is too thick and just bunches if I force it.
> 
> 
> 
> The ACD-4090 manual states 4 gauge wire can be used so I'm confused . Is there a trick for making the wire fit into less generous size connectors? Could the wire require a clean cut for better fitment? Could the wire require trimming a bit? Would appreciate any tips.




Get u some 4 gauge wire ferrules.... tinning the wire will also help as well if u dont have ferrules.. i always use ferrules on everything


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> Get u some 4 gauge wire ferrules.... tinning the wire will also help as well if u dont have ferrules.. i always use ferrules on everything
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Excellent! Should the ferrule be an exact match for the terminal hole size?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Excellent! Should the ferrule be an exact match for the terminal hole size?


Well it cannot be bigger...

Same or smaller will fit.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> Well it cannot be bigger...
> 
> Same or smaller will fit.


So if it's smaller I would just tighten the screw down on it? Won't there only be a certain size for 4 gauge wire anyway?


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> So if it's smaller I would just tighten the screw down on it? Won't there only be a certain size for 4 gauge wire anyway?




Just get a 4 gauge ferrule u will be fine. Or if u had a 8 gauge wire get a 8 gauge ferrule., and ect...very easy...all u r doing is tightening the set screw into the ferrule


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> Just get a 4 gauge ferrule u will be fine. Or if u had a 8 gauge wire get a 8 gauge ferrule., and ect...very easy...all u r doing is tightening the set screw into the ferrule
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Great thanks! I will see if the auto sparky's have some and can crimp my 4 gauge wires tomorrow.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Do these work well on the speaker wires as well?


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> Do these work well on the speaker wires as well?




They work well on any wire...good luck with install


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> They work well on any wire...good luck with install
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cheers, thanks heaps.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

I never recommend solder, but I did pull through the speaker wires and soldered them into the ferrule for some test wires... And I also trimmed a few loose strands to make them able to work through the hole.

There is a crimper that does both the blue/yellow/red connectors with the eyelets and also ferrules , as well as a specific ferrule crimper.

Just got a 50 pack at the electrical shop today as I need to sort out the reticulation (sprinkler) wiring and some boxes and terminal strips... But the sprinklers are not vibrating like a car, so I am not worried about the sprinkler wires fatiguing and leaving me stranded on the side of the road.

You can also use some different coloured heat shrink to make it easy to visually know which wire is which. And it looks schmiko and clean when it is done.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> I never recommend solder, but I did pull through the speaker wires and soldered them into the ferrule for some test wires... And I also trimmed a few loose strands to make them able to work through the hole.
> 
> There is a crimper that does both the blue/yellow/red connectors with the eyelets and also ferrules , as well as a specific ferrule crimper.
> 
> Just got a 50 pack at the electrical shop today as I need to sort out the reticulation (sprinkler) wiring and some boxes and terminal strips... But the sprinklers are not vibrating like a car, so I am not worried about the sprinkler wires fatiguing and leaving me stranded on the side of the road.


Are you suggesting a crimp alone might not be sufficient? I think when I had my power wires terminal done it was soldered... I hope the sparky here has some 4 gauge ferrules. 




Holmz said:


> You can also use some different coloured heat shrink to make it easy to visually know which wire is which. And it looks schmiko and clean when it is done.


Do mean for positive/negative identification of speaker wires? My power wire is red and ground is brown...


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Are you suggesting a crimp alone might not be sufficient? I think when I had my power wires terminal done it was soldered...


Soldering the crimp on a terminal is different than your amp connection. You want a little "squish" in the connection, not a solid bar that has no "give".


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Are you suggesting a crimp alone might not be sufficient? I think when I had my power wires terminal done it was soldered... I hope the sparky here has some 4 gauge ferrules.


NO.

Crimp is generally considered to be better.
And for boats, cars and planes which tend to vibrate the solder connections do not lest as long as a crimp.

I mentioned the electrical shop...
It was $38 with GST for 100 ferrules which say "CABAC (brand) 'Boot lace pins' "




Kol12 said:


> Do mean for positive/negative identification of speaker wires? My power wire is red and ground is brown...


Yeah I thought were talking about speaker wires?

Red and brown... Blue and brown are 230v colours - so I literally stay away from brown.
Red and black are common colours for 12V I think.

I use red/black.
Or just use black on the "-" side if the cable are not black and then it is easy to see which is which.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

OCD66 said:


> Soldering the crimp on a terminal is different than your amp connection. You want a little "squish" in the connection, not a solid bar that has no "give".


Are you referring to a ferrule terminal? I'm not following you...

Here is the amp, they're standard screw down connectors...


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Are you referring to a ferrule terminal? I'm not following you...
> 
> Here is the amp, they're standard screw down connectors...


1) Put wire end into ferrule (aka boot lace pin).
2) Put ferrule into screw down connector
3) screw down connector
-- repeat --


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> NO.
> 
> Crimp is generally considered to be better.
> And for boats, cars and planes which tend to vibrate the solder connections do not lest as long as a crimp.
> ...


What was the solder bit all about then?




Holmz said:


> Yeah I thought were talking about speaker wires?
> 
> Red and brown... Blue and brown are 230v colours - so I literally stay away from brown.
> Red and black are common colours for 12V I think.
> ...


Cable identification is important as a lot of cables don't clearly indicate the positive and negative. I think I made same labels and taped them on but some colored heat shrink would look a lot tidier.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Bruss - The solder bit was moaning the fact the Mrs said to apply the electric skillz towards fixing up the reticulation...

I said, "I do not know reticulation", and she said, "grab that volt meter and google it, you'll figure it out".:mean:

I fit it has a prop, wheels or wings, crimp it or just screw it down hard with the wire in the ferrule... Which in the ANZAC dialect may be called a "boot lace pin".


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Ah so you tried some soldering techniques for the sprinkler system wires?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Ah so you tried some soldering techniques for the sprinkler system wires?


Not yet...

Thor sent lightening and rain this afternoon, so the Gods let me off the hook for another day... So maybe on Frigg's day I will continue.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

I hope the ferrule works. 
Looks very tight. Worst case get a g4 to g8 reducer, if you can find one that's insulated great, that will prevent a short.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32009_Stinger-SPT522.html

Some amps come with their own adapters, covered in plastic to prevent shorts, an example the infinity kappa 5 old amp, comes with an adapter for the 3 connections power, remote and ground wires, check with your amp manual or contact the manufacturer to see if it available, it may be better, cheaper and safer.


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=os66cID30Ek


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

OP,wire ferrules are not easy to come by and usually you have to get them online.I live in Chicago and searched high and low until giving up and just ordering some online.If you lived in the states here I'd mail you a couple to see if they work.However,you're in luck.Here's a link to Ferrulesdirect.Look in the upper left section for the "free samples" link.

Ferrules - Wire Insulated Uninsulated Ferrule - Crimping Tools, Tool Calibration, European Specifications at Ferrules Direct

BTW....No need to crimp or solder these.Simply just slide them over the bare wire and connect to the amp terminal.The amp screws do the crimping for you.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

JH1973 said:


> OP,wire ferrules are not easy to come by and usually you have to get them online.I live in Chicago and searched high and low until giving up and just ordering some online.If you lived in the states here I'd mail you a couple to see if they work.However,you're in luck.Here's a link to Ferrulesdirect.Look in the upper left section for the "free samples" link.
> 
> Ferrules - Wire Insulated Uninsulated Ferrule - Crimping Tools, Tool Calibration, European Specifications at Ferrules Direct
> 
> BTW....No need to crimp or solder these.Simply just slide them over the bare wire and connect to the amp terminal.The amp screws do the crimping for you.


I have never seen them in the states, but in Australia the two sparkle supply places here both them on the rack. They are required to be used in home and industrial. New Zealand is likely more like Australia then the US, so it may be worth a look.

The question is what type of speaker is being fed with that massive cable? It that a bit of overkill?
I would probably cut 1/2 the wires off the cable. Thee are too many to smash into the female receptacle. The amp was certainly designed to feed a wire 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the cable... Otherwise they would have had a hole big enough to stuff a welding cable into.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Holmz said:


> I have never seen them in the states, but in Australia the two sparkle supply places here both them on the rack. They are required to be used in home and industrial. New Zealand is likely more like Australia then the US, so it may be worth a look.
> 
> The question is what type of speaker is being fed with that massive cable? It that a bit of overkill?
> I would probably cut 1/2 the wires off the cable. Thee are too many to smash into the female receptacle. The amp was certainly designed to feed a wire 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the cable... Otherwise they would have had a hole big enough to stuff a welding cable into.


Speaker being fed?? I thought it was his power or ground wire to amp.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

I am still wondering if he is doing stick welding or MIG.

My TIG actually has a smaller wire than that and it can do 300A.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

JH1973 said:


> Speaker being fed?? I thought it was his power or ground wire to amp.


Yes it is power and ground wire not speaker wire. I've never heard of 4 gauge speaker wire! 

The CDT ACD-4090 manual specifically says to use 4 AWG power wire from the battery to the amplifier but the rest is very vague just saying "Connect the power and ground to the amplifier"


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

What power wire are you using? 

Don't trim it down. Use a ferrule or a reducer as mentioned above. 

And don't be cheap. Buy the crimper to crimp the ferrule. Do it right the first time.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Weightless said:


> What power wire are you using?
> 
> Don't trim it down. Use a ferrule or a reducer as mentioned above.
> 
> And don't be cheap. Buy the crimper to crimp the ferrule. Do it right the first time.


EFX 4 AWG... A few posts back some said that the ferrule doesn't have to be crimped and that the amp terminal will screw it down instead. Am I missing something? Heading to the sparky to get these crimped this afternoon...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

None of the local auto sparky's had ferrule crimps. The electrician did have them but not without some problems. The ferrule fitted perfectly over the wire, nice and snug but the actual terminal was still too big to fit into the amp's terminal hole. The sparky tried crimping it down more and shaping it but without any luck. The problem is this is American wire gauge not metric that's used in NZ.

Guess I'll need to look around for those 4 AWG - 8 AWG adapters but whether there's any in NZ, eeek. Jeez I'm surprised the distributor didn't warn/instruct or provide suitable connectors when they sent the amp down.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

The hole is not big enough because it only requires an 8ga wire.
It is not because it is an imperial wire, it is because the imperial wire is way bigger than it needed to be.

You could put the fatso one into a terminal block and then come out with a little 8ga to go into the amp. That makes a lot of sense if there are 2 amp being served by a single feed from the battery.

Or take the cutter and trim some of the wires off the ends to make it small enough to fit. It will probably be 25-30% that need trimming.

Or asking the sparkie what to do - is probably the best answer.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

@Holmz

The manual actually says to use 4 AWG wire, but doesn't explain how that should be connected to the amp! The electrician suggested trimming the wiring and soldering it but also agreed that might not be suitable if high current is going to be drawn. What about a 4 gauge bullet connector?

Something like this maybe? https://modelzone.co.nz/plugs-connectors/1766-bullet-conectors-60-mm-1-pair.html


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

If the ferrules want work, just get these reducers. This cant be this hard to do. I know it says there out of stock but this definately what u need or any other 4 to 8 gauge reducer; just wanted to show u an example of a reducer
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT522-Gauge-Reducer-Input/dp/B001H4Y5O0


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> If the ferrules want work, just get these reducers. This cant be this hard to do. I know it says there out of stock but this definately what u need or any other 4 to 8 gauge reducer; just wanted to show u an example of a reducer
> https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT522-Gauge-Reducer-Input/dp/B001H4Y5O0
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It's whether or not I can find them in NZ but I'm looking. Would a bullet connector like the one I linked to above possibly be another option? Or like this: XT150 Connector Black 1 pair

It has a spring type end that compresses on input...

Maybe something here? - https://www.surplustronics.co.nz/categories/114-car-audio-connectors


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> It's whether or not I can find them in NZ but I'm looking. Would a bullet connector like the one I linked to above possibly be another option? Or like this: XT150 Connector Black 1 pair
> 
> 
> 
> It has a spring type end that compresses on input...




Oh ok, just now realize you are in NZ; just as long as it accepts 4 gauge on one end and fits in amp terminal u will be fine


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

If you messed around with the exposed wire at all after trimming off the insulation it's likely it won't fit. After you trim the insulation look at how the copper strands are naturally twisted and use you thumb and index finger to slightly twist and smooth the strands into their natural orientation. When you insert the wire into the terminal don't push it straight in - twist the wire opposite the direction of the way the strands naturally lay and push it in at the same time.

If you can't get it to go in use a fresh razor blade to trim off around the circumference of the wire. This will dull the razor very fast but for me it's the best way because you can butt the razor edge right up against the insulation. Use the same twisting motion with your index finger and thumb to pull all of the cut strands out of the rest of the exposed wire.

I know several people like to use ferrules, but adding another layer that could slip along with the reduced contact surface area at the screw in the terminal makes me not want to use them.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> Oh ok, just now realize you are in NZ; just as long as it accepts 4 gauge on one end and fits in amp terminal u will be fine
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Most of those other connectors I linked to are not local stores so I will have to email for dimensions. They look promising though.

I'm kinda peed that the distributor didn't warn about this and suggest something and also that CDT's instructions are so vague. Ugh will get there eventually I suppose.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Are these designed to go into amp terminals?

T-Spec V10-RT804P Universal V10 Series 4 Gauge Ring & Spade Terminal for Vehicles


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

SPLEclipse said:


> If you messed around with the exposed wire at all after trimming off the insulation it's likely it won't fit. After you trim the insulation look at how the copper strands are naturally twisted and use you thumb and index finger to slightly twist and smooth the strands into their natural orientation. When you insert the wire into the terminal don't push it straight in - twist the wire opposite the direction of the way the strands naturally lay and push it in at the same time.
> 
> If you can't get it to go in use a fresh razor blade to trim off around the circumference of the wire. This will dull the razor very fast but for me it's the best way because you can butt the razor edge right up against the insulation. Use the same twisting motion with your index finger and thumb to pull all of the cut strands out of the rest of the exposed wire.
> 
> I know several people like to use ferrules, but adding another layer that could slip along with the reduced contact surface area at the screw in the terminal makes me not want to use them.


The electrician had to cut the ferrule off he had crimped so there is a fresh cut and I have taped it for now. I will have another look at things tomorrow but yeah it's a thick wire and a small hole. Not sure what you mean about trimming off around the circumference of the wire...


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> Are these designed to go into amp terminals?
> 
> 
> 
> T-Spec V10-RT804P Universal V10 Series 4 Gauge Ring & Spade Terminal for Vehicles



No they are not


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

gumbeelee said:


> No they are not
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With the gauge reducer like the Stinger you linked, that little nub is designed to fit into the amp terminal and the screw clamped down I take it? 

I can't find anything specific like that for car audio in NZ. The closest might be a 5-6mm bullet plug if I can find one. Is there anything similar you can think of or another name for it that might be more common in NZ?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

I hate to suggest it, but at this point I would removing enough wires for it to fit, and then tinning it with solder to keep it from fraying, and then just shove it in and t'oighten er down.
or... the same steps without the solder, and t'oighten er down.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> I hate to suggest it, but at this point I would removing enough wires for it to fit, and then tinning it with solder to keep it from fraying, and then just shove it in and t'oighten er down.
> or... the same steps without the solder, and t'oighten er down.


It almost seems like the only option but it doesn't make sense, CDT say to plug the 4 AWG wire into the amplifier from the battery. I've emailed the distributor to the see what the story is, I am just shocked CDT doesn't provide further instructions around this. 

Once you remove enough wires I can't see the point, you'd probably have a 8 gauge connection by then. I will have a play again tomorrow...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Hopefully I can find something here that fits. (NZ wholesaler) The electrician today didn't have many sizes. Will take measurements tomorrow.


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

I've recently been researching wire for my first proper audio build and install. I'm surprised no-one has mentioned not all 4 gauge is created equal, girth wise.

What type of wire do you have? If it's Copper-Clad Aluminium (CCA) it will be a much thicker wire compared to a pure Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wire. Usually the thinner OFC wire will be rated at a higher max amperage than the thicker CCA.

I would say calculate the max draw of your amp and find the thinnest quality OFC wire that will handle the jandal.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

bitshifted said:


> I've recently been researching wire for my first proper audio build and install. I'm surprised no-one has mentioned not all 4 gauge is created equal, girth wise.
> 
> What type of wire do you have? If it's Copper-Clad Aluminium (CCA) it will be a much thicker wire compared to a pure Oxygen-Free Copper (OFC) wire. Usually the thinner OFC wire will be rated at a higher max amperage than the thicker CCA.
> 
> I would say calculate the max draw of your amp and find the thinnest quality OFC wire that will handle the jandal.


Thanks for the information. The wire I have is EFX which is supposed to be OFC, pretty much like this: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21118_EFX-reVoPAK4-by-Scosche.html, https://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=21118&picture_id=472498

I guess this is just a thicker type of OFC cable... I will probably keep hunting some terminals before thinking of changing the wire though.

Edit: this is the actual kit I have: 4 Guage Amp Kit | Amp Wire Kit | 4AWG OFC Amp Kit | by Scosche

Maybe I still have those terminals as shown in the pic, they look like spades though so probably not suitable.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Kol,here is my suggestion to you.If I was in your shoes I'd be very disgusted as well by the way.The thought of hacking the wires down just doesn't sit right.But anyway,amplifier manufacturers will always recommend a thicker gauge than is necessary.I looked at the power specs on that amp and I seriously don't think it demands 4awg.You could easily get away with 8awg.Seems how you have the 4awg already running from the battery why don't you just terminate that into a distribution block and from there run 8awg to that amp.That way you could add amps in the future.4awg is a very common "main wire" size in audio installs.It can handle quite a bit of current.I currently have 4awg as a main wire and it's handling 2 amps(850w RMS) and a DSP with zero issues.


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

I found this link helpful:

Amplifier wire gauge chart

Holmz and JH's suggestion above of a distribution block is a good one I reckon. There seems to be quite a difference between the recommended gauge in the amplifier user manual and wire gauge/Amps charts.

For instance, my manual recommends a 5 gauge wire for sub 4ft runs of cable. However (400W RMS * 2) / 13.8 = 58A. According to the chart on Crutchfield, a 10ga wire would do the trick. Even with wiggle room 8ga is way smaller than recommend and is plenty.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I would add this website as well,a very respected resource on this forum.On the side bar just click "Fuses" and scroll down to use the amplifier calculator chart.Plug in your configuration and it will automatically compile the recommended wire sizes and fuse sizes at each junction.You'd be surprised at how these thicker gauge wires are complete overkill in many cases.

http://www.bcae1.com


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

JH1973 said:


> Kol,here is my suggestion to you.If I was in your shoes ...


In the local dialect, the expression is "Bruss, if I was in your Jandles"...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

bitshifted said:


> I found this link helpful:
> 
> Amplifier wire gauge chart
> 
> ...


Nice chart. My amp should pull a max 500w RMS - 72 Amps which would suggest an 8 gauge wire. I am planning to install a cap in the boot which will extend the wire length significantly though...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

JH1973 said:


> Kol,here is my suggestion to you.If I was in your shoes I'd be very disgusted as well by the way.The thought of hacking the wires down just doesn't sit right.But anyway,amplifier manufacturers will always recommend a thicker gauge than is necessary.I looked at the power specs on that amp and I seriously don't think it demands 4awg.You could easily get away with 8awg.Seems how you have the 4awg already running from the battery why don't you just terminate that into a distribution block and from there run 8awg to that amp.That way you could add amps in the future.4awg is a very common "main wire" size in audio installs.It can handle quite a bit of current.I currently have 4awg as a main wire and it's handling 2 amps(850w RMS) and a DSP with zero issues.


I agree. I have already forked out for a nice 4 AWG wire so I might as well try to make it work right? I am planning on installing a capacitor in the boot as it won't go under the seat. That will require a distributor block. I spoke briefly about it and the capacitor would have to be installed in what's called I think a loopback. Does anyone know how a loopback capacitor installation with a distributor block is supposed to work?


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

JH1973 said:


> I would add this website as well,a very respected resource on this forum.On the side bar just click "Fuses" and scroll down to use the amplifier calculator chart.Plug in your configuration and it will automatically compile the recommended wire sizes and fuse sizes at each junction.You'd be surprised at how these thicker gauge wires are complete overkill in many cases.
> 
> Basic Car Audio Electronics


I could not find the calculator on the Fuses page


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> I could not find the calculator on the Fuses page


Sorry about that.It is under the "wire" tab.Scroll down to the "System power design assistant"....Filling in the boxes is a bit tricky.You'll figure it out.I had luck placing the cursor just before the last 0 and backspace erase only enough to erase the unwanted numbers.Then type your numbers in.You'll see what I mean....Hope that helps.


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## High Resolution Audio (Sep 12, 2014)

Kol12 said:


> I agree. I have already forked out for a nice 4 AWG wire so I might as well try to make it work right? I am planning on installing a capacitor in the boot as it won't go under the seat. That will require a distributor block. I spoke briefly about it and the capacitor would have to be installed in what's called I think a loopback. Does anyone know how a loopback capacitor installation with a distributor block is supposed to work?


It's really simple. Cut the extra strands around the perimeter of the 4 gauge and remove until the diameter of the remaining strands is small enough to fit in the hole. 

Someone else suggested this, and it seems like you didn't understand.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> I agree. I have already forked out for a nice 4 AWG wire so I might as well try to make it work right?


No - not right.
What problem does the 4 ga wire fix?



Kol12 said:


> I am planning on installing a capacitor in the boot as it won't go under the seat. That will require a distributor block. I spoke briefly about it and the capacitor would have to be installed in what's called I think a loopback. Does anyone know how a loopback capacitor installation with a distributor block is supposed to work?


What problem is the capacitor solving?
Or are you just installing it for the sake of it? Not that that is bad, it just may serve no real apparent and required use.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

High Resolution Audio said:


> It's really simple. Cut the extra strands around the perimeter of the 4 gauge and remove until the diameter of the remaining strands is small enough to fit in the hole.
> 
> Someone else suggested this, and it seems like you didn't understand.


So a small amount of wire loss at the connection wouldn't reduce or compromise the wire's current capacity?

Anyway I measured the amp terminals and they are 6mm in circular diameter. I'm pretty sure one of the ferrule/end sleeves I listed back on page two will be suitable and I personally think they would make a cleaner job without compromising the wire by removing strands. Correct me if I'm wrong.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> No - not right.
> What problem does the 4 ga wire fix?


The wire is already installed. If for some reason the amp did require more current (these amps are underrated) it solves that problem... And wouldn't it be easier to make this wire work (that I payed good money for) rather that swapping it out for the sake of a connection...




Holmz said:


> What problem is the capacitor solving?
> Or are you just installing it for the sake of it? Not that that is bad, it just may serve no real apparent and required use.


The capacitor stiffens the power supply, it may be some benefit or it may not but wouldn't hurt...


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> The wire is already installed. If for some reason the amp did require more current (these amps are underrated) it solves that problem...


Under rated?
Compared to what, or under rated by who/whom?
Is the output under rated or the amp input under rated?

There look to be 2x 25A fuses, so it is doubtful that more than 50A can go to the amp.




Kol12 said:


> And wouldn't it be easier to make this wire work (that I payed good money for) rather that swapping it out for the sake of a connection...


I don't know, how much more money are you going to waste on that aspect?
There is a psychological-economic term for justifying investing more, when it makes no sense.

An option is pulling it out, selling it, and using the 8Ga.
If the "under rated amp" has a regulated supply then it will certainly not care about the 4 or 8 ga wire... And if a capacitor is in there then it will further not care about the difference in gauge.




Kol12 said:


> The capacitor stiffens the power supply, it may be some benefit or it may not but wouldn't hurt...


Well I am not against doing something that is not required, but unless the power supply is limp and needs stiffening, then it makes somewhat of a wank to put it in. But it is easier to see that in your case... I have a capacitor sitting here - which I probably do not need but i just like the idea of it. When I do it does not make it smart or wise. It is still a wank.

This however, is the perfect place for a terminal block to reduce the 4 to 8ga, all at the same time as giving a place the capacitor electrically nestle into...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> Under rated?
> Compared to what, or under rated by who/whom?
> Is the output under rated or the amp input under rated?
> 
> There look to be 2x 25A fuses, so it is doubtful that more than 50A can go to the amp.


You know how some amps are said to be underrated in their power output and under good conditions can deliver more? This is one as the seller claims... But TBH I don't know exactly what an underrated amp means technically...




Holmz said:


> I don't know, how much more money are you going to waste on that aspect?
> There is a psychological-economic term for justifying investing more, when it makes no sense.
> 
> An option is pulling it out, selling it, and using the 8Ga.
> If the "under rated amp" has a regulated supply then it will certainly not care about the 4 or 8 ga wire... And if a capacitor is in there then it will further not care about the difference in gauge.


I took some measurements today and I'm sure there will be a ferrule terminal around that's suitable and TBH I see finding suitable terminals as the easiest option really...




Holmz said:


> Well I am not against doing something that is not required, but unless the power supply is limp and needs stiffening, then it makes somewhat of a wank to put it in. But it is easier to see that in your case... I have a capacitor sitting here - which I probably do not need but i just like the idea of it. When I do it does not make it smart or wise. It is still a wank.
> 
> This however, is the perfect place for a terminal block to reduce the 4 to 8ga, all at the same time as giving a place the capacitor electrically nestle into...


I guess your right, I know there is debate about it and I'll have to make up my own mind. One benefit to it is the distributor block as you mention. The installation is something I need more clues on though so does anyone know how to install a capacitor in a loopback fashion? I.e. The power cable from the battery does not reach all the way to the boot where the capacitor will go but there is an alternative to wiring it up...


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

For me, I'll take the amp's rated fuse then divide them to 3, that will be the amp's typical current draw.
A good OFC 8AWG power cable most of the time can do the job already. And I don't see any reason why we need to use 4AWG all the way from battery till amp that rated for 100A(for example) where the fact is stock alternator for normal sedan will only give output of 100-130A and after all other essential components taking it, the balance are not more than 50A.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

kyheng said:


> For me, I'll take the amp's rated fuse then divide them to 3, that will be the amp's typical current draw.
> A good OFC 8AWG power cable most of the time can do the job already. And I don't see any reason why we need to use 4AWG all the way from battery till amp that rated for 100A(for example) where the fact is stock alternator for normal sedan will only give output of 100-130A and after all other essential components taking it, the balance are not more than 50A.


Hi kyheng,

Thanks for your input. I am just wondering though, has anyone stopped to think that another amp might go in some point to say run a subwoofer off? I am sure by then we will most definitely need that 4 AWG wire...


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

Kol12 said:


> Hi kyheng,
> 
> Thanks for your input. I am just wondering though, has anyone stopped to think that another amp might go in some point to say run a subwoofer off? I am sure by then we will most definitely need that 4 AWG wire...


For sub amp, I would say yes and no.
Yes to 4AWG if you were to wire the sub lower at 2 or 1ohm.
No to 4AWG if were to wire the sub at 4 or 8ohm.
I only use 8AWG OFC cable from Knu to JL HD750/1 to an 8ohm sub. Amp warm after 30 minutes of pounding normal listening volume and hotter on louder volume.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

kyheng said:


> For sub amp, I would say yes and no.
> Yes to 4AWG if you were to wire the sub lower at 2 or 1ohm.
> No to 4AWG if were to wire the sub at 4 or 8ohm.
> I only use 8AWG OFC cable from Knu to JL HD750/1 to an 8ohm sub. Amp warm after 30 minutes of pounding normal listening volume and hotter on louder volume.


If you are running two amps off the same power wire that's a lot of amperes so 4 AWG would be a must...


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

Kol12 said:


> If you are running two amps off the same power wire that's a lot of amperes so 4 AWG would be a must...


Well, you are right till some extend. If you are using class D amp, 8AWG also good enough. Still, reading the amp's specs will be the best bet.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> You know how some amps are said to be underrated in their power output and under good conditions can deliver more?


Yes I do know that.




Kol12 said:


> This is one as the seller claims... But TBH I don't know exactly what an underrated amp means technically...


You do know what it means because it generally total BS.




Kol12 said:


> I guess your right, I know there is debate about it and I'll have to make up my own mind.


This is not like Jury duty or church where you hear a story and need to judge its veracity.
Just get a DMM or an oscilloscope and run with the facts.
I was going to say this is the 20th century, but it is actually the 21st in Au.




Kol12 said:


> One benefit to it is the distributor block as you mention. The installation is something I need more clues on though so does anyone know how to install a capacitor in a loopback fashion? I.e. The power cable from the battery does not reach all the way to the boot where the capacitor will go but there is an alternative to wiring it up...


WTF is a loopback?
What does it cure?
Why is it desired?




Kol12 said:


> If you are running two amps off the same power wire that's a lot of amperes so 4 AWG would be a must...


How many times, and how many of us, have to say terminal block?
Surely there is a google in NZ.

This terminal block would solve many of todays problems.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> WTF is a loopback?
> What does it cure?
> Why is it desired?


It cures not being able to mount a capacitor under a seat. It is an alternative way of wiring the cap at a distance but hey maybe I better speak to the guy who has experience with this. 



Holmz said:


> How many times, and how many of us, have to say terminal block?
> Surely there is a google in NZ.


Not sure what your referring to.


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

Im shocked that this thread still has traction. If fitting that 4 gauge wire in the amp is stumping you, you have a whole host of ass whoopings ahead of you... You may be better off handing off your install to a professional. Just sayin'........2 days of Q and A for a 30 second job.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

RRizz said:


> Im shocked that this thread still has traction. If fitting that 4 gauge wire in the amp is stumping you, you have a whole host of ass whoopings ahead of you... You may be better off handing off your install to a professional. Just sayin'........2 days of Q and A for a 30 second job.


lol, i kept seeing this thread in my new posts feed and had to come see what 70 posts could be talking about regarding stepping down 4ga to an 8ga input.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-of-...ge-Reducer-4ga-Input-to-8ga-Pin-/361074398921


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Not sure what your referring to.


No ****... really?
As it was mentioned in posts 31, 47, 48, and 55... i kind of figured out it is not an option that ibterests you.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> No ****... really?
> As it was mentioned in posts 31, 47, 48, and 55... i kind of figured out it is not an option that ibterests you.


I did not disregard the terminal block and it seems I am not the only one who is overlooking posts. I've said about three times today that I will look for a more suitably sized ferrule connection next week. I am not stumped and appreciate the help suggested.

And regarding the length of the thread it's your guys suggestions that keep coming through, not mine. Maybe you would like to further discuss it? The solution to the wire size issue was solved quite a few posts back but was then turned into a let's base it on the facts thread. I don't think this was initiated by me. Thanks.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

The idea was that the 4-ga goes in, and then 2 or three 8-ga come out.
"Distribution" is the key word.


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

Kol12 said:


> So a small amount of wire loss at the connection wouldn't reduce or compromise the wire's current capacity?


No. Not at all.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

I took the tape I had off the power cable today and noticed it has quite a few less strands than the ground cable. Is it normal for the ground to be slightly thicker?


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

Are there two different sizes or manufacturers? I think someone else mentioned this already, but wire marketed for car audio typically has a range of sizes that might not conform to the true AWG standard. Some of the better manufacturers oversize their wire a bit, some of the cheap stuff is a little undersized.

It's also possible some of the strands were cut and removed when the wire was being stripped making it look smaller.

Either way - Unless there's something grievously wrong with the wire or install you should be able to safely hook everything up right now. If you are uncomfortable or unsure about making the connections please find someone who is.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

SPLEclipse said:


> Are there two different sizes or manufacturers? I think someone else mentioned this already, but wire marketed for car audio typically has a range of sizes that might not conform to the true AWG standard. Some of the better manufacturers oversize their wire a bit, some of the cheap stuff is a little undersized.
> 
> It's also possible some of the strands were cut and removed when the wire was being stripped making it look smaller.
> 
> Either way - Unless there's something grievously wrong with the wire or install you should be able to safely hook everything up right now. If you are uncomfortable or unsure about making the connections please find someone who is.


No it's all from the same wiring kit. It's EFX/Scosche 4 AWG and looks very good quality. It's possible it lost some strands when cut but on closer inspection it looks like the power wire strands are actually different to the ground wire. (sorry I didn't take pics) The ground wire is very thick feeling while the power wire is a bit softer. 

Anyway I shoved the ground and power wires into the amp today, ouch that was rough... I was eager to test the new amp out though... It's only temporary until I know how I'm going to wire the cap in. That will require a whole heap of ring terminals and I hope to get suitable ferrule terminals to make a nice tidy job for the power and ground wires to the amp. The very small power and ground connection openings on the CDT ACD-4090 and their suggestion to use 4 AWG wire in the manual is very puzzling  Edit: Correction: The manual says to use 10 AWG 4-7 FT and 4 AWG over 15 FT. Doesn't explain the small terminals though.

When I took the drivers door panel off the other week I noticed the crossover was damaged  A month or so ago the locking rod for my door latch came unhooked and I reckon the mechanic and their coathanger roughness knocked the coil off! The coil wire still appears to have it's solder connection to the board but the winding has come loose and a little bit bent. I understand the coil plays it's part in controlling the crossover frequencies but which ones exactly I'm not sure... I've glued it back on and after hooking the new amp today it's so lovely to hear my system again! Lot's of tweaking to do though. So with this crossover damage does anyone know what the role is of this particular coil and what you might expect to see/hear if it is damaged?










P.S. So some people say that underrated amp values are BS. CDT are claiming otherwise: "Guaranteed underrated values and a detailed power specification for each model. Power values are typically much higher than rated."

https://www.rubyservsales.com/product/cdt-audio-acd-4090-500w-4-channel-amplifier/


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Also, the Power Protection light remained a constant blue color. Again the manual is very vague and doesn't appear to mention power protect! Would a constant blue color suggest normal operation?


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> The very small power and ground connection openings on the CDT ACD-4090 and their suggestion to use 4 AWG wire in the manual is very puzzling  Edit: Correction: The manual says to use 10 AWG 4-7 FT and 4 AWG over 15 FT. Doesn't explain the small terminals though.


I'll take an uneducated stab at this one. I don't believe user manuals are there to teach you everything you need to know about car audio installation. They are a rough guide. I'm sure there are installations out there that have multiple amplifiers hooked into the rear end of a long vehicle, requiring a main 0awg run. Guess what? Nobody is trying to shove that fat thing into an amplifier terminal. They use a distribution block, closer to the amplifier where they can employ shorter runs of higher gauge cable. This ain't rocket science!



Kol12 said:


> P.S. So some people say that underrated amp values are BS. CDT are claiming otherwise: "Guaranteed underrated values and a detailed power specification for each model. Power values are typically much higher than rated."


Says CDT's own marketing material.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

bitshifted said:


> I'll take an uneducated stab at this one. I don't believe user manuals are there to teach you everything you need to know about car audio installation. They are a rough guide. I'm sure there are installations out there that have multiple amplifiers hooked into the rear end of a long vehicle, requiring a main 0awg run. Guess what? Nobody is trying to shove that fat thing into an amplifier terminal. They use a distribution block, closer to the amplifier where they can employ shorter runs of higher gauge cable. This ain't rocket science!


Yeah I guess that's pretty true for most things these days eh? (the manual thing) Buy something new these days and the manual is like 1-2 pages. It has shifted more towards web based manuals. I think this was already answered and it might sound a bit noob but if you ran a 0 AWG wire to a distribution block close to the amp with then an 8 AWG wire to the amp is that not creating a bottleneck on the main wire?



bitshifted said:


> Says CDT's own marketing material.


Well true, it sounds pretty convincing though.


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> I think this was already answered and it might sound a bit noob but if you ran a 0 AWG wire to a distribution block close to the amp with then an 8 AWG wire to the amp is that not creating a bottleneck on the main wire?


No. Don't think of power as being "pushed". It's being "drawn". If it was water running down pipes (ignore water pressure for a moment, and pretend it's being drawn), your tap is only going to "draw" what it needs. Multiple taps (or amps) from the distribution block will also be able to draw what they need because the main pipe has the capacity to feed all.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

bitshifted said:


> No. Don't think of power as being "pushed". It's being "drawn". If it was water running down pipes (ignore water pressure for a moment, and pretend it's being drawn), your tap is only going to "draw" what it needs. Multiple taps (or amps) from the distribution block will also be able to draw what they need because the main pipe has the capacity to feed all.


That makes sense. So it's a matter of using the correct size wire for what the amp requires at the distribution block. Running a distribution block for both the power and ground wires just to step the wire down at the amp connections seems kinda odd though... I'm really interested to know how CDT go about using 4 AWG with these amps!


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> That makes sense. So it's a matter of using the correct size wire for what the amp requires at the distribution block. Running a distribution block for both the power and ground wires just to step the wire down at the amp connections seems kinda odd though... I'm really interested to know how CDT go about using 4 AWG with these amps!


The distribution blocks are more in vogue when one has more than one thing hooked up to them and hence to the larger wires.

Often that would be something like a multi-channel amp, subwoofer amp(s), and perhaps the capacitor.

If you only had the single amp, then an 8-ga wire would probably be about right.


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Running a distribution block for both the power and ground wires just to step the wire down at the amp connections seems kinda odd though.


Yeah, there's a bit more to the story - I was trying to keep it to the very basics. (For my own good, I'm still learning myself). The reason is because the resistance of the material in the cable will cause voltage drop. That means less power coming out the other end and more heat generated in the cable. So longer runs require thicker cable.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

bitshifted said:


> Yeah, there's a bit more to the story - I was trying to keep it to the very basics. (For my own good, I'm still learning myself). The reason is because the resistance of the material in the cable will cause voltage drop. That means less power coming out the other end and more heat generated in the cable. So longer runs require thicker cable.


As long as the cable is sized appropriately, resistance from anything like a distribution block is negligible, and so is the voltage drop that it will cause. You can pull a lot of current through a very small wire, as long as the wire is very short.


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## SPLEclipse (Aug 17, 2012)

I can't tell what that coil is being used for, but it doesn't really matter. It could be a low pass, high pass, or notch filter.

If the windings came loose this will affect the inductance of the coil, but it might be so minor as to not really matter. If the speakers sound fine and nothing is damaged I wouldn't worry about it.

As for the LED, it sounds like it's an all-in-one design, which is why it's labeled as power/protection. Blue is usually good. I'm guessing a red or yellow light would indicate that the protection circuit has kicked in.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

SPLEclipse said:


> I can't tell what that coil is being used for, but it doesn't really matter. It could be a low pass, high pass, or notch filter.
> 
> If the windings came loose this will affect the inductance of the coil, but it might be so minor as to not really matter. If the speakers sound fine and nothing is damaged I wouldn't worry about it.
> 
> As for the LED, it sounds like it's an all-in-one design, which is why it's labeled as power/protection. Blue is usually good. I'm guessing a red or yellow light would indicate that the protection circuit has kicked in.


Now that I have the amp operational, bass, mid and treble appear to sound normal to me so far, so maybe the loose windings of the coil is only minor. Luckily it's still soldered to the PCB and if that had broken things could have been worse.

I think you probably right about the power/protection being an all in one indicator. Apart from that light there is nothing to indicate the amp has power so it would make sense. 

I am totally stumped on the size of the power and ground terminals on this amp, they are actually the same size as the speaker terminals  I am waiting for instructions on how to wire the cap in and then I can decide on what terminals, distribution blocks etc are all going to work to get this wired up nice and neat. 

Do you guys have any preferences for speaker terminals vs bare wire into the amp? I saw a thread where banana plugs are quite popular...


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

So with the capacitor it doesn't fit under my seat and the plan is to put it in the boot. Does anyone know what sort of method you would use to wire the cap at a distance from the amplifier?


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Wouldn't bother with it then.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> So with the capacitor it doesn't fit under my seat and the plan is to put it in the boot. Does anyone know what sort of method you would use to wire the cap at a distance from the amplifier?


A terminal block


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

do not waste time or money on a cap for that amp.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

miniSQ said:


> do not waste time or money on a cap for that amp.


Class D efficiency I know... The CDT distributor said it can be run without it but still thinks it wouldn't hurt to have the cap. I'll have another chat to them to about it for further clarification..


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Class D efficiency I know... The CDT distributor said it can be run without it but still thinks it wouldn't hurt to have the cap. I'll have another chat to them to about it for further clarification..


Technically it won't hurt.

It just will not likely help either and is another thing to go wrong with the connections at the erminal block and the cap itself.

An 8-gauge wire to amp has only itself and its connections as a possible point of failure. It is not like you will hear the 4-ga wire or the cap.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> Technically it won't hurt.
> 
> It just will not likely help either and is another thing to go wrong with the connections at the erminal block and the cap itself.
> 
> An 8-gauge wire to amp has only itself and its connections as a possible point of failure. It is not like you will hear the 4-ga wire or the cap.


I briefly spoke to the distributor today and the reason my 4 gauge wire is so thick is because it is "competition" grade wiring. So it's more of an over sized 4 gauge wire... Does that mean the CDT ACD-4090 is not a competition grade amp? I don't fully understand but I guess not... They have another wiring kit for me but I can't remember whether it was a "normal" sized 4 gauge or an 8 gauge kit. 

I will speak to the distributor again to see how they justify having the cap but I realise there can differing opinions on that. Would you care to share your opinion of whether to have the cap or not? Bare in mind I am still learning a lot about car audio and electronics myself and am trying to educate myself on things like this.


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

Decided to google capacitors because I also had no idea what they were all about.

Wow. Audio snake oil. This type of crap is in every hobby/industry, I suppose.

https://axleaddict.com/cars/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

The upshot is, your amplifiers may even get LESS power with the cap. :laugh:


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

I found this comment kind of interesting but I still have more homework to do.

"Re: when to use a capacitor
Ah a question/argument for the ages. You are opening Pandora's box on this as there will be supporter of Caps as well as their opponents. 

I use them as to smooth out the power from the electrical system, kind of like a Home Theatre power conditioner to smooth out those dips and peaks that you inevitably will get from the electric company. Most people do use these though to mask a problem with their electrical system and its inability to keep up with some current draw.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...udio-discussion/59164-when-use-capacitor.html


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

bitshifted said:


> ...
> The upshot is, your amplifiers may even get LESS power with the cap. :laugh:


They will get the same power.
The whole electrical system will not vary as much if one is pulling huge intermittent loads... like with a kW sub amp..


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## bitshifted (Nov 19, 2017)

Holmz said:


> They will get the same power.
> The whole electrical system will not vary as much if one is pulling huge intermittent loads... like with a kW sub amp..


According to this audio blogger - if I read it correctly - that power will only last milliseconds. Then come the drawbacks..



> Remember: The accessories (i.e. headlights) and the current output by the alternator are behind the “voltage wall” of the capacitor. The current generated by the alternator is directly available and pulled by the car’s accessories due to the path of least resistance and the buffering action of the capacitor. And this happens because the capacitor’s voltage drops when drained by the amplifiers. Since the voltage potential is higher at the alternator end, which is BEHIND the capacitor, the accessories have a more stable voltage and current supply than the amplifiers do as the capacitor is slowly charging. The amplifiers are directly connected to the capacitor so they will also see a corresponding drop in voltage on their terminals, whereas the headlights won’t (because they are connected to the alternator and battery). Therefore, less available current is supplied to the amplifiers than is demanded; again, because there is a limited amount current available in this automotive system. *The voltage on the amplifiers will fluctuate with every discharge and charge of the capacitor.* But the accessories behind the capacitor won’t see such a drastic fluctuation in voltage or current; thus reducing the flickering of headlights. The capacitor is actually reducing the spikes of current demanded by the subwoofer amplifiers each time the subs hit hard. Hence, your audio fidelity is somewhat compromised.
> 
> Yes, the amplifiers will instantly use a minimal amount of current available from the discharging capacitor, but this is substantially outweighed by the negative side-effects in the whole circuit:
> 
> ...





> Conclusion:
> 
> The current produced by the car’s alternator is difficult to get past the capacitor “voltage wall” and onto the amplifiers. *The pernicious capacitor steals current from the amplifiers and gives it to the accessories (lights, ignition, A/C, defogger, etc).* It acts like a fluctuating “voltage wall” that prevents a portion of the alternator’s otherwise available current from ever reaching the amplifiers. A capacitor does not produce any additional current in the system; it just redistributes current in a way that is *detrimental to the audio fidelity of your system.*



/ This reminds me of oil or suspension debates in motorcycle circles. Always a can of worms.  Happily, as a beginner in this arena - I get to sit on the fence. 

// However, it's hard to argue with the notion that a capacitor is a weak band aid for a weak system. Hey, maybe I have taken a position on the matter!


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

bitshifted said:


> According to this audio blogger ...
> !


That quote is mostly BS.
1) first sentence is true, the rest is bewildering. 
2) The capacitor sees the same voltage as the amplifier.
3) the capacitor makes the voltage swing less and also swing more slowly
4) the capacitor has almost no loss, so there is about zero load.
5) 'severely' should be called 'somewhat'
6) first sentence is true, second not so much.
7) first sentence is true, the rest not so much.

It is worthwhile in theory, but maybe not as useful in practice.
If you open up almost any amp you fill find capacitors abound in inside. This is not by accident.
Given the same total cost a better amp, and a better charging system and battery would obviate the need for a capacitor.

What is the amperes that the OPs draws?
Is it a small amp, or a kW sized unit?


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## oberon (Oct 17, 2016)

Kol12 said:


> I briefly spoke to the distributor today and the reason my 4 gauge wire is so thick is because it is "competition" grade wiring. So it's more of an over sized 4 gauge wire...


:-D What a ******** - It is 4 gauge or it is not. 
It's simple.

I can't believe what an attention can get a thread about not fitting cable into amp terminfal.

If you don't need an oversized voltage meter with lights, then buy some serious capacitor or do not buy any at all.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

oberon said:


> :-D What a ******** - It is 4 gauge or it is not.
> It's simple.
> 
> I can't believe what an attention can get a thread about not fitting cable into amp terminfal.
> ...


No because some brands are apparently under gauged... Some kits are true AWG and I am guessing the competition wiring is slightly over sized.

Most threads here tend to veer in all sorts of directions from the original thread purpose.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> No because some brands are apparently under gauged... Some kits are true AWG and I am guessing the competition wiring is slightly over sized.
> 
> Most threads here tend to veer in all sorts of directions from the original thread purpose.


Veering or not...

And in spite of the manual calling for 4-ga when it sounds like it has an 8-Ga hole for the wire...

what sort is amp are you running the power to?
Is it 1, 2, 4 channels, and what does the manual say about amperes required?
And what is on the amp in the way of fuses?
A single 25A, two 30A, circuit breakers?
Does the amp have a regulated internal power supply?
Etc.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

The distributor sold me a competition 4 AWG wiring kit but that was before I ever knew I would get the CDT ACD-4090 that seems to have small terminals. It's not my fault I'm this position. 

The amp is a CDT ACD-4090 4 channel amplifier. It has two 25A fuses. Not sure about amperes. The manual says to use a 4 AWG wire at so many feet. The terminal sizes don't make a lot of sense. It's either that or this 4 AWG wire I have is more like a 0 AWG. I honestly don't know what the story is


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> The distributor sold me a competition 4 AWG wiring kit but that was before I ever knew I would get the CDT ACD-4090 that seems to have small terminals. It's not my fault I'm this position.
> 
> The amp is a CDT ACD-4090 4 channel amplifier. It has two 25A fuses. Not sure about amperes. The manual says to use a 4 AWG wire at so many feet. The terminal sizes don't make a lot of sense. It's either that or this 4 AWG wire I have is more like a 0 AWG. I honestly don't know what the story is


Forget who is at fault...

Two 25A fuses indicate that it must draw less 50A, and if it is not cranked up high then it will probably be <25A.
Not a lot of info on the input side, and the distortion and noise were rated at full power, so it is hard for me to tell much.

I somewhat doubt you need "competition wire" to power it... unless you are competing.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

I think the only way to know what the real story is about the size terminals they've used is to ask CDT themselves. Maybe I will send an email. 

The distributor seemed to think that he has a 4 AWG wiring kit that would fit the amp, which would suggest that the 4 AWG "competition" wire I have is 2-3mm or so thicker than a real 4 AWG. 

I'm not experienced enough with different brand wiring kits and the gauges they use, so called "competition" gauge wire etc to make judgments on this. It's very well possible that a real 4 AWG does fit the amp and that the problem has been me not being informed that I have slightly thicker than normal 4 AWG wire. I will need to talk to distributor again to see whether I go with the new wire or whether the current wire can still be worked with. It's no one's fault just some misunderstanding...


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> ...
> I'm not experienced enough with different brand wiring kits and the gauges they use, so called "competition" gauge wire etc to make judgments on this.
> ...


That is fine...
However I am experienced on BS, which this sounds like.

More copper wire carries current the same way, and the specs for the amp's did not suggest it to be overly dominant in terms competition... but being rated at full power then maybe it is more of a SQ at SPL and they are really good.

It is possible that it requires a competition wire, but the BS level seems high to me.

Get some calipers are measure the receptical's hole diameter and that of the wire's conductor, or get a terminal block, or go to a professional. It is just a power cable.


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

seems to me that by the time you figure out if the amps terminals are undersized, or the wire is AWG standard, or "competition" (which I find funny), getting your dial caliper calibrated so there are no mistakes........ sourcing the proper size ferrules, whos at fault, and why, phone calling and emails, forum postings, ect, your amp is now obsolete, and your "competition" wire coating has dry rotted, and the OFC has oxidized......... And you still don't know what it sounds like because you couldn't get that damn wire in that little hole...


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## Rocky98Formula (Jul 13, 2017)

RRizz said:


> seems to me that by the time you figure out if the amps terminals are undersized, or the wire is AWG standard, or "competition" (which I find funny), getting your dial caliper calibrated so there are no mistakes........ sourcing the proper size ferrules, whos at fault, and why, phone calling and emails, forum postings, ect, your amp is now obsolete, and your "competition" wire coating has dry rotted, and the OFC has oxidized......... And you still don't know what it sounds like because you couldn't get that damn wire in that little hole...


I actually find this entire thread highly amusing and am waiting to see how long it actually takes the OP to insert the wire. You can't make this stuff up.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

RRizz said:


> seems to me that by the time you figure out if the amps terminals are undersized, or the wire is AWG standard, or "competition" (which I find funny), getting your dial caliper calibrated so there are no mistakes........ sourcing the proper size ferrules, whos at fault, and why, phone calling and emails, forum postings, ect, your amp is now obsolete, and your "competition" wire coating has dry rotted, and the OFC has oxidized......... And you still don't know what it sounds like because you couldn't get that damn wire in that little hole...


HaHa. Nice wrap up.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Rocky98Formula said:


> I actually find this entire thread highly amusing and am waiting to see how long it actually takes the OP to insert the wire. You can't make this stuff up.


Its crazy...i check every few days to see if any progress has been made. Its like watching that pregnant giraffe on TV this summer.:laugh:


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

RRizz said:


> seems to me that by the time you figure out if the amps terminals are undersized, or the wire is AWG standard, or "competition" (which I find funny), getting your dial caliper calibrated so there are no mistakes........ sourcing the proper size ferrules, whos at fault, and why, phone calling and emails, forum postings, ect, your amp is now obsolete, and your "competition" wire coating has dry rotted, and the OFC has oxidized......... And you still don't know what it sounds like because you couldn't get that damn wire in that little hole...


I think the length of time it is taking to fully understand CDT and their amp terminals is genuine considering the circumstances. I would rather know the truth than be guessing. 

FYI I did get the thick 4 AWG wire I currently have stripped back a bit and fitted into the amp and the amp sounds killer  Trimming the strands didn't result in a very neat job at all really but I was eager to get it hooked up...

Also I did measure the size of the amp terminal and it was 6mm in diameter. A 4 AWG wire is supposed to be 5.19mm. The wire I have is more like 7-8mm.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Rocky98Formula said:


> I actually find this entire thread highly amusing and am waiting to see how long it actually takes the OP to insert the wire. You can't make this stuff up.


It may be just a wire, but when it doesn't fit and doesn't make sense as to why it doesn't fit it's something a quite bit more in my opinion. I bet you would be scratching your head also.

Go out and get a reducer, well there are none in NZ. 

FYI the wire has been inserted but that doesn't clarify anything. If I had another 4 AWG wire laying around I could probably put an end to everyone's waiting in anticipation.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> Its crazy...i check every few days to I see if any progress has been made. Its like watching that pregnant giraffe on TV this summer.:laugh:


Did it deliver?
I made reference to elephant gestation Wednesday... I'll have to look up giraffes.


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## lurch (Jan 20, 2014)

Personally i am finding this thread to be quite informative, funny but informative. 

I say KUDOS to you, Kol12, for standing your ground here without losing your temper
and remaining logical and patient. 
You have LOTS & LOTS to learn, but you are asking the right questions the correct way. 

Well done.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Holmz said:


> Did it deliver?
> I made reference to elephant gestation Wednesday... I'll have to look up giraffes.


yes after a month of live viewing, April the giraffe gave birth on national TV. estimated viewing audience was over a million people.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

lurch said:


> Personally i am finding this thread to be quite informative, funny but informative.
> 
> I say KUDOS to you, Kol12, for standing your ground here without losing your temper
> and remaining logical and patient.
> ...


Are you saying it should take 5 pages to determine that if you have a wire that is not fitting into a terminal, that you have two choices? remove some wire or buy smaller wire. The why the wire is too large doesn't matter.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> yes after a month of live viewing, April the giraffe gave birth on national TV. estimated viewing audience was over a million people.


Well a pet giraffe, and the pet dog... could both be named spot


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## Rocky98Formula (Jul 13, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> It may be just a wire, but when it doesn't fit and doesn't make sense as to why it doesn't fit it's something a quite bit more in my opinion. I bet you would be scratching your head also.
> 
> Go out and get a reducer, well there are none in NZ.
> 
> FYI the wire has been inserted but that doesn't clarify anything. If I had another 4 AWG wire laying around I could probably put an end to everyone's waiting in anticipation.


Sorry, I didn't mean to knock you down. There just seems to be a lot of overthinking in this thread and not enough common sense. Looking at the photos of your amp, your power lugs don't seem to be sized for 4 gauge wire (regardless of what the manual says). If you are really determined to make sense of it all, a really easy check would be to grab a ruler and measure the diameter of your amp lugs in mm and then go online and look up common diameters of 4 gauge wire (check common battery cable, welding cable etc). Then measure the diameter of your purchased power cable (the copper part not including the insulation). It should take less than 10 minutes to determine whether your amp lugs are not sized for 4 AWG cable or your power cable is thicker than the average 4 AWG cable. It's already been mentioned numerous times that 4 AWG cable is not all the same. 

You're amp uses two 25A fuses. I highly doubt they sized your power lugs are sized for 4 AWG wires regardless of what the manual says. Mystery solved. 

Let's see if we can get this thread to page 6


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## EvAnA (Aug 20, 2012)

Rocky98Formula said:


> Let's see if we can get this thread to page 6


For real, I finally had to see what all the fuss was about after this thread made it this long.

Side note hello neighbor, you're the closest person I've seen on here location wise.


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

I cant beleieve this thread is still going; for goodness sake u r putting a wire in an amp, I told u several ways to do this at the beginning of the thread. Not trying to be a smartass but its really not hard at all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

I still like the idea of a pet giraffe named spot.


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

Holmz said:


> I still like the idea of a pet giraffe named spot.


You would definitely need cathedral cielings.... Did you know: The heart of the giraffe is about 22 pounds and 2 feet long. giraffeworlds.com


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## Nan00k (Apr 4, 2014)

Kol12 said:


> Go out and get a reducer, well there are none in NZ.


I call BS on this, my mate in Christchurch has used them in his install and I can walk into any eletrical suppliers in AUS and pick them up off the shelf!


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Can a mod please close this thread.... FOR ****S SAKE BETWEEN THIS THREAD AND MY BELOVED TENNESSEE VOLS COACHING SEARCH I AM ABOUT TO ****ING LOSE IT!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

gumbeelee said:


> Can a mod please close this thread.... FOR ****S SAKE BETWEEN THIS THREAD AND MY BELOVED TENNESSEE VOLS COACHING SEARCH I AM ABOUT TO ****ING LOSE IT!!!!!


We are all getting charged up...
(Everyone but the amplifier.)


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

gumbeelee said:


> Can a mod please close this thread.... FOR ****S SAKE BETWEEN THIS THREAD AND MY BELOVED TENNESSEE VOLS COACHING SEARCH I AM ABOUT TO ****ING LOSE IT!!!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 Well, apparently, you DONT FIT in here....


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Half the thread is filled with comments going on about the length of the thread. From the useful posts I actually learned a few things which is what this site is all about. Seems someone is all worked up about it but it ain't me. So anyway can we please end this on a positive rather than a sour note. Thanks.


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

RRizz said:


> Well, apparently, you DONT FIT in here....




Good one....LOL!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> Half the thread is filled with comments going on about the length of the thread. From the useful posts I actually learned a few things which is what this site is all about. Seems someone is all worked up about it but it ain't me. So anyway can we please end this on a positive rather than a sour note. Thanks.




I was not trying to be a smartass with my post, I just got absolutely aggervated, we have gave u so many usefuI tips. I just dont thank theres anything else we can tell you to try. Good Luck with your install!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Kol12 said:


> Half the thread is filled with comments going on about the length of the thread. From the useful posts I actually learned a few things which is what this site is all about. Seems someone is all worked up about it but it ain't me. So anyway can we please end this on a positive rather than a sour note. Thanks.


How is it sounding cuz?


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Holmz said:


> How is it sounding cuz?


I did a better job with the power wires trimming some strands out and then heatshrinking the ends, might even tin the very ends to make reinsertion easier. 

System sounds good but I need more time to get better accustomed and tweak it properly. Haven't really got gains set properly. The bass sounds thicker, kicks thump more and everything has very good clarity. It's a powerful little amp and these speakers can thump.. Sound great around town but tend to lose low end on the open road. I will try to set gains allowing for bass boost.

I'm not sure if I will bridge the front stage. If I'm going to run rears or a sub off the amp as well there's not much point. I have some thinking to do in terms of how best to expand the system. Is rear fill going to be worth it or do I go straight to a sub? If sub, is a 250-300W RMS sub run off the same 4 channel amp with front stage going to be powerful enough to give me the low end I need on the open road? If not that requires a separate sub amp and then I might as well utilize the 4 channel amp by bridging or running rear fill. 

Not in any hurry though and I'm just pleased to have my system back up running. Have had work done on the car also so everything is pretty mint right now..


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## Marky (Nov 15, 2011)

I have 4 gauge power and ground feeds that I also ran out of my power blocks but the amps were setup for 6 and 8 gauge wires. My solution was soldering the ends of the 4 gauge until the tips were solid solder on copper cable. Then I chucked the 4 gauge into a machine lathe and ran it on low speed then cut it back from 4 gauge size till it was either 4 or 6 gauge sized on amplifier ends.
A guy could also grind the size back on a stationary sander as long as patient and take the time.
It worked out really well and the power feeds are bigger then needed which is better then too small.

Get back to the boxing people up.


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## FromDaLeftCoast (Dec 15, 2017)

KnuKonceptz 0 gauge power wire had me using a distributor box to go from O to 4. Just recently I decided to clean up my wiring and now I use a 0 - 4 pin adapter for my power. Followed by a 4 gauge ferrule for the ground. 8 gauge ferrules for the capacitor power/ground and 10 gauge ferrules for the speaker wires.


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## Marky (Nov 15, 2011)

FromDaLeftCoast said:


> KnuKonceptz 0 gauge power wire had me using a distributor box to go from O to 4. Just recently I decided to clean up my wiring and now I use a 0 - 4 pin adapter for my power. Followed by a 4 gauge ferrule for the ground. 8 gauge ferrules for the capacitor power/ground and 10 gauge ferrules for the speaker wires.


Like the name there, much more thought then me. lol
In the same crap hole side of the country.

I have to look at these gadgets you speak of for changing cable gauges. I will admit I spent at least 4 hours on my cables from the soldering and lathe time. 
in the end it came out looking pretty and all but its a conundrum when it don't fit the hole.............


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

Marky said:


> I have 4 gauge power and ground feeds that I also ran out of my power blocks but the amps were setup for 6 and 8 gauge wires. My solution was soldering the ends of the 4 gauge until the tips were solid solder on copper cable. Then I chucked the 4 gauge into a machine lathe and ran it on low speed then cut it back from 4 gauge size till it was either 4 or 6 gauge sized on amplifier ends.
> A guy could also grind the size back on a stationary sander as long as patient and take the time.


Please tell me this is tongue in cheek, and not serious. you machined the tinned wires down?? https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT522-Gauge-Reducer-Input/dp/B001H4Y5O0


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Kolz, can I ask you with what tool are you cutting the 4 ga with? Are you cutting the 4 ga with diagonals? If you are, you are mushrooming the end of the wires. 

Use Sharp cable cutters. I attached a picture for reference. The cut on the left is made with diagonals, the one one the left is with good cable cutters.

FYI, I have a CDT SQA 1000 (non-operational), the 4 ga was not an issue.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Kolz, can I ask you with what tool are you cutting the 4 ga with? Are you cutting the 4 ga with diagonals? If you are, you are mushrooming the end of the wires.
> 
> Use Sharp cable cutters. I attached a picture for reference. The cut on the left is made with diagonals, the one one the left is with good cable cutters.
> 
> FYI, I have a CDT SQA 1000 (non-operational), the 4 ga was not an issue.


Excellent point! 

So often it's the simple things... It's all too easy for us to take our tools and best practices for granted, and thus fail to identify potential pitfalls and/or convey important details.

P.S. Here's an example of simple, inexpensive, and effective cable cutters (for copper and aluminum only), good for up to 2/0 copper:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wiss-9-1-2-in-Compact-Cable-Cutters-0890CSJW/205208788


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Kolz, can I ask you with what tool are you cutting the 4 ga with? Are you cutting the 4 ga with diagonals? If you are, you are mushrooming the end of the wires.
> ...


I do not know of they have metrosexuals in the US, but nail clippers even work for people without wire cutters...


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Hope the OP doesn;t take me for a dick, I know there are oversized cables out there but Scoshe has always seened to be a reputable brand. Whether competion or not, it should fit.

I know that gnawling through a cable and expecting it to fit is asking for issues. If you look at the picture I posted you will see that I had to make more than one cut.

From know on, can we call the left cut a "beaver cut", that's what we call it round my way........?


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

RRIZZ wins too! His replies are some serious quotables! Made me laugh !!!!!


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

Holmz said:


> I do not know of they have metrosexuals in the US, but nail clippers even work for people without wire cutters...


 That's EXACTLY how we roll down here... This one is good for a dozen strands of 0000 gauge at once.


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## Marky (Nov 15, 2011)

RRizz said:


> Please tell me this is tongue in cheek, and not serious. you machined the tinned wires down?? https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT522-Gauge-Reducer-Input/dp/B001H4Y5O0


LOL No I'm actually not kidding, I did a couple using my stationary sander and spinning the cable on the 9" wheel to cut back its O.D. and after far less than satisfactory results I sat on the ****ter and did some heavy thinkin. My cables from splitter to amps are longest 24" or so. So I put two blocks on top of bench behind machine lathe to hold a 3/4" pipe for cable to spin freely in. Now I cut them in low gear at threading speed, so it was so slow that it became very easy to pull off actually. Plus as you can imagine the cable size was perfectly round and exact size too.


Was actually a easy peezy solution.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

RRizz said:


> That's EXACTLY how we roll down here... This one is good for a dozen strands of 0000 gauge at once.


Hmmmm... 12 strands of 4/0? Now that's some MONSTER CABLE! 

Good thing about it is, as long as you don't have to shave off much more than 0.5", you need not bother tinning before turning.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

RRizz said:


> That's EXACTLY how we roll down here... This one is good for a dozen strands of 0000 gauge at once.


Rotfl

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Kolz, can I ask you with what tool are you cutting the 4 ga with? Are you cutting the 4 ga with diagonals? If you are, you are mushrooming the end of the wires.
> 
> Use Sharp cable cutters. I attached a picture for reference. The cut on the left is made with diagonals, the one one the left is with good cable cutters.
> 
> FYI, I have a CDT SQA 1000 (non-operational), the 4 ga was not an issue.


Hi Locomotive,

I went down to the local mech and asked if they had any heavy duty wire cutters. They gave me some that look like just like the ones Grinder has linked to. Cut through like butter. Xmas present please..

The SQA 1000 has nice large power connectors. Personally I think the ACD-4090 terminals could have been more generously designed. Interested to know who designed the amp as Clarion uses the same design.


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## Kol12 (Nov 20, 2015)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Hope the OP doesn;t take me for a dick, I know there are oversized cables out there but Scoshe has always seened to be a reputable brand. Whether competion or not, it should fit.
> 
> I know that gnawling through a cable and expecting it to fit is asking for issues. If you look at the picture I posted you will see that I had to make more than one cut.
> 
> From know on, can we call the left cut a "beaver cut", that's what we call it round my way........?


Doesn't KnuKonceptz do oversized wires? Like this: Kolossus Fleks Black 4/0 Gauge Power/Ground Wire - Merchandise

"our 4/0 exceeds American Gauge Wire standards and every other cable in the automotive market today!"

No the Scosche 4 gauge I have is an oversized 4 gauge, probably similar to the kolossus fleks. I didn't really gnaw, I carefully separated individual strands and snipped them clean at the base of the wire jacket. I then slipped some heatshrink over the top of the wire shrinking it down around and covering over the cut part of the cable.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

RRizz said:


> That's EXACTLY how we roll down here... This one is good for a dozen strands of 0000 gauge at once.


Many would not admit to being metros.
But using the tools that one has is worthwhile to mention.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Holmz said:


> Many would not admit to being metros.
> But using the tools that one has is worthwhile to mention.


I know exactly what you mean! Let nothing get in the way of your *#*style.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6J6t_GkxLEk


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Speaking of tools, DIY, and everything that can go wrong - here's an apt video from AvE, one of my favorite YouTubers:

WARNING: Avoid this and all other AvE videos if you (or anyone within earshot) might be offended by coarse language. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBoqB0t_C8s


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## wizzi001 (Apr 29, 2011)

Kol12 said:


> Doesn't KnuKonceptz do oversized wires? Like this: Kolossus Fleks Black 4/0 Gauge Power/Ground Wire - Merchandise
> 
> "our 4/0 exceeds American Gauge Wire standards and every other cable in the automotive market today!"
> 
> No the Scosche 4 gauge I have is an oversized 4 gauge, probably similar to the kolossus fleks. I didn't really gnaw, I carefully separated individual strands and snipped them clean at the base of the wire jacket. I then slipped some heatshrink over the top of the wire shrinking it down around and covering over the cut part of the cable.


Shok Industries does 8/0 cable. https://www.shokindustries.com/collections/shok-industries/products/team-shok-8-0-awg-183-5mm2-power-cable


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