# Doitor's 2010 Setup



## doitor

Hi, guys.
The day after USACi Finals (Oct 3-4) I took the car apart once again for a full rebuild.
I'm tired of the current setup and the idea behind the change is to make the car fully functional again and use the KISS mentality.
The install will be fully stealth with a twist since I'll still use it as my "comp" car.
I have all the equipment already.
Here are some pics.

Head Unit:










Amps:










Subs (Two):










Frontstage:

The same HAT Legatia L831-3.
The only change will be to take the L8's out of the door and into the kicks.

J.


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## doitor

Started making the amp rack for the HD's.
I will have 2 versions. One with my current sub box and then another one with the 13tw5's.
This is the version for my current sub box.










The 3 HD amps will be under the sub box.










The gap between the rack and the subbox will be covered with metal grille covered in speaker grill cloth with some fans to force cool air into the amps.










I left the rack with a clearence of 4". The HD's measure 2" in height. The extra 2" will allow some air over them so they dont get too hot.










The subbox will be held in place with a couple of hinges (still not installed).
Full access to the amps connections once I take the rear seats down.










I get most of my trunk back and full, easy access to the spare tire and tools.










Now what could posibly hide behind door #1?










How about an all in one power/ground distro block.










J.


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## Oliver

doitor said:


> Started making the amp rack for the HD's.
> 
> The 3 HD amps will be under the sub box.
> 
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> The gap between the rack and the subbox will be covered with metal grille covered in speaker grill cloth *with some fans to force cool air into the amps.*
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> *I left the rack with a clearence of 4". The HD's measure 2" in height. The extra 2" will allow some air over them so they dont get too hot.*
> 
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> J.


Very nice


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## mikey7182

Looks great so far Jorge! I'm car shopping at the moment and will have a new build centered around the P01 as well. Look forward to seeing your progress! I like the idea of the amps under the sub enclosure.


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## kyheng

Jorge, I don't know if putting all the HD amps below sub enclosure is a good method. As I got a HD750/1 still don't know where to put(now just lay unsecure on top of spare tyre) and it do generate considerable heat even running a 8ohm woofer right now. But compare to class AB amps, it is still cold. 
Anyway it is still a good build.


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## unpredictableacts

Curious about your cooling set up....should you have at least on of the fans draw warm air out? 

PS that is a ****ty HU...

































...give it to me.


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## doitor

I'm going to play with several fans and configurations before finishing the build.
The version with the 13tw5's wont have the box on top of the amps.
And yes, unpredictableacts.
I'll give you the HU.
If you paypal $1,200 to [email protected]
LOL.

J.


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## Stoph

Looks great! I'm looking forward to see the rest


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## 8675309

Looking good cant wait to see the final project!


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## unpredictableacts

doitor said:


> I'm going to play with several fans and configurations before finishing the build.
> The version with the 13tw5's wont have the box on top of the amps.
> *And yes, unpredictableacts.
> I'll give you the HU.
> If you Give me a Man on Man hug.
> LOL.*
> 
> J.


Sold.:laugh4:


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## doitor

unpredictableacts said:


> Sold.:laugh4:


LOL.
As much as I appreciate the gesture p) I'd rather do paypal.

J.


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## KARPE

Did you pull all of you're wiring too?


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## doitor

KARPE said:


> Did you pull all of you're wiring too?


Power, ground and speaker wires (on the roof) are the same.
Ordered multiconductor Canare StarQuad cable and RCA plugs to make new custom length cables.

J.


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## KARPE

Good! it looked like a lot of work went into running all your wiring, including the kill switch.


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## nirschl

Looking good Jorge! Be looking forward to seeing this done.


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## sydmonster

wow... and jorge's circle of audio life re begins.


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## TEGBOY

Loving the usage of the HD amps. Sadly, in Australia, many ill-informed will tell you they are no good as an SQ amp, this goes to show, they surely are!!

Bravo to you Sir!!


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## JayinMI

But, but, but, they're *Class D.* They *can't* sound as good as 'a' or 'ab', *everyone* knows that.  







j/k

Jay


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## doitor

KARPE said:


> Good! it looked like a lot of work went into running all your wiring, including the kill switch.


Oh, it sure was a lot of work.
This version will have a lot less wiring (3 vs 5 amps, 1 vs 3 distro blocks).
But I'll still do it just like the previous one as far as attention to detail, overkill and OCD.
The kill switch stays. It's prewired and I used a quick disconnect plug to be able to easily use any HU I use in the future.
But I have some surprises for the kil switch.



sydmonster said:


> wow... and jorge's circle of audio life re begins.


LOL.
I totally agree.
It's my only car, daily driver and "comp car", but this time the first two outweighted the last one.



TEGBOY said:


> Loving the usage of the HD amps. Sadly, in Australia, many ill-informed will tell you they are no good as an SQ amp, this goes to show, they surely are!!
> 
> Bravo to you Sir!!


I did a lot of testing before going with the HD's.
Just to give you an idea, I tested the JL Slash, JL HD's, Zapco DC's, McIntosh, Sinfoni, Arc SE's and several others.
The size/power ratio on the HD's is just amazing.
And as far as "SQ" goes, they RAWK.

J.


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## jonnyanalog

I think its fantastic that you are keeping the rear functional with access to the spare tire while maintaining a competition system.


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## AdamTaylor

i wanna see some cutting..... bust out the cut off wheel


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## IBcivic

AdamTaylor said:


> i wanna see some cutting..... bust out the cut off wheel


HE NEEDS TO BUY HIS WIFE A SET OF RUBBER FRYING PANS ,FIRST....THEY DON'T HURT AS MUCH


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## doitor

AdamTaylor said:


> i wanna see some cutting..... bust out the cut off wheel


Patience my friend.
I fear for my personal integrity if my wife finds out o), so I need to send her out of town for a weekend before cutting anything.



stinky06 said:


> HE NEEDS TO BUY HIS WIFE A SET OF RUBBER FRYING PANS ,FIRST....THEY DON'T HURT AS MUCH


Great idea.
But not only frying pans. 
I also need rubber tv's, rubber candle holders, rubber knifes, rubber plates, rubber toasters, etc, etc, etc,

J.


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## doitor

jonnyanalog said:


> I think its fantastic that you are keeping the rear functional with access to the spare tire while maintaining a competition system.


And wait till you see the version with the 13tw5's.

J.


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## Andy Jones

^Have you thought about putting a plexi back and bottom on the enclosure so judges can see the amps? That way you can show off everything easily without having to rely on photos?


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## doitor

Andy Jones said:


> ^Have you thought about putting a plexi back and bottom on the enclosure so judges can see the amps? That way you can show off everything easily without having to rely on photos?


Unless the judges can see thru polyfill, it wont work all that good.
On a serious note, it's actually a pretty good idea.
I had thought of that for the version with the 13tw5's.

J.


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## John Reid

Sigh, I have the same amps... got them last year, and they're STILL sitting in boxes. I bet you'll get yours installed before I do! 

Let me know how they sound... glad you did all the research and came to the conclusion that they sound sweet... I went more for the power to size aspect, since they're going into a storage compartment of my VW Sportwagen.

Funny, we're going to be rolling with pretty nearly identical systems, except I have L4s and will be running 2 IDQ 15s.

Rawk on!


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## Kenny_Cox

awesome gear, awesome skills. This build should be pretty awesome.


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## Andy Jones

Instead of polyfill, try some acoustic foam on all the walls except those two. If you hear a difference at all, I bet that will do the same thing.


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## doitor

Material for the new RCA's is here.
I'll get working right away.
I'll be using Canare Star Quad multiconductor cable and Neutrik RCA plugs.
So a single cable will run from the HU to the amps on the passenger side of the car.
No more cables under the carpet, so I'll have easy access to them.





































J.


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## BlueAc

Nice...


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## req

if you dont mind me asking where did you purchase that cable and the phono connectors from?

its hard to imagine how you redo your entire setup so often man. i think you are nuts lol.


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## savagebee

you can find it at markertek.com or

****, I dont remember the other one.. i think its redco.com

i used some Gepco 61801 EZ, the starquad is overkill from what Ive READ, but I havent compared. The star quad is much more asthetically pleasing, I may redo mine later with the thicker cable and some strain relief plugs


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## doitor

req said:


> if you dont mind me asking where did you purchase that cable and the phono connectors from?


Sure.
I bought it from markertek.
Link to the cable ($2.68 a foot):

Canare Corporation Of America Canare L-4E3-P Series Multi Channel Star Quad Audio Snake Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com

Link to the connectors ($0.75 each):

Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik Phono Plug with Black Plated Handle/Nickel contacts RCA Connectors at Markertek.com



req said:


> its hard to imagine how you redo your entire setup so often man. i think you are nuts lol.


Thanks for the compliment.
The project has been evolving (sp.) for a bit over 2 years now and it's been a constant search.
I've went overboard a lot of times, but now it's time to tone it down while still keeping a "competition worthy" system that will still allow me to use the car like it was designed to be used.
And I'm sure this will not be the last version of the system either.
What I do refuse to do is to build a "trailer queen" that I can only listen to in my garage or at shows.

J.


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## foosman

And I'm sure this will not be the last version of the system either.
What I do refuse to do is to build a "trailer queen" that I can only listen to in my garage or at shows.

J.[/QUOTE]

Hater, trailer queens are fun. All you have to do is buy a trailer 
(6000.00) and then a bigger pick up to pull it (15 to 20k) then pay for a storage place to keep the trailer since you don't have enough space at your house to park it.

On second thought, anyone want to buy a Mustang??


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## doitor

foosman said:


> Hater, trailer queens are fun. All you have to do is buy a trailer
> (6000.00) and then a bigger pick up to pull it (15 to 20k) then pay for a storage place to keep the trailer since you don't have enough space at your house to park it.
> 
> On second thought, anyone want to buy a Mustang??


LOL.
That sound like a lot of fun, buddy.

J.


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## Andy Jones

foosman said:


> On second thought, anyone want to buy a Mustang??


$50? :laugh::laugh:


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## doitor

Fun with the RCA's started.
Started with this:










Then this:










Next:




























Long story short:










Decided to take it to the next step so I cut off the RCA plugs from the Pioneer's harness to solder the wire directly.




























Right around here I found out that I left the heatshrink at home 
So I'll have to continue Monday.

J.


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## 8675309

Yep my wife said we should get a trailer. I was like what for, "wife" so we can trailer the car. I told her you cant listen to the car in the trailer. 

I told her I would get a trailer to pull behind the car and she said NO:laugh:

Jorge the interconnects are going to be nice. I spent so much money and time trying to make my 9255 optical work with my bitone, I wish I would have spent that money on RCA builds.






foosman said:


> And I'm sure this will not be the last version of the system either.
> What I do refuse to do is to build a "trailer queen" that I can only listen to in my garage or at shows.
> 
> J.


Hater, trailer queens are fun. All you have to do is buy a trailer 
(6000.00) and then a bigger pick up to pull it (15 to 20k) then pay for a storage place to keep the trailer since you don't have enough space at your house to park it.

On second thought, anyone want to buy a Mustang??[/QUOTE]


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## foosman

Andy Jones said:


> $50? :laugh::laugh:


Cheapskate, I might consider a certain Altima and a trunk load of cash tho.


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## xlynoz

Come on looking for updates. I need my Doitor fix.


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## doitor

xlynoz said:


> Come on looking for updates. I need my Doitor fix.


 LOL.
I just got an email from Redco that they just shipped my cable which I ordere *10 days ago*.
Do you want some nice Mexican drugs to keep you calm in the mean time?

J.


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## JayinMI

That's right...you *are* a doctor, aren't you? 

Jay


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## xlynoz

doitor said:


> LOL.
> I just got an email from Redco that they just shipped my cable which I ordere *10 days ago*.
> Do you want some nice Mexican drugs to keep you calm in the mean time?
> 
> J.



I'll take the first ever Mexican Pioneer DEH-P01 instead


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## doitor

JayinMI said:


> That's right...you *are* a doctor, aren't you?
> 
> Jay


Yes, Sir.



xlynoz said:


> I'll take the first ever Mexican Pioneer DEH-P01 instead


Just paypal $1,150 to [email protected] and it's all yours.
LOL.

J.


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## m3gunner

Hey... at a $50 reduction per request, 10 or 12 more requests and I should be able to afford it... 

Awesome install...


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## 8675309

Jorge, have you had a chance to listen to the Pioneer DEH-P01?

If not I would be glad to test it for you!

Or I will just take it off your hands if you would like!

I would be willing to purchase the deck for 30 easy payments of $38.33


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## doitor

8675309 said:


> Jorge, have you had a chance to listen to the Pioneer DEH-P01?
> If not I would be glad to test it for you!
> Or I will just take it off your hands if you would like!
> I would be willing to purchase the deck for 30 easy payments of $38.33


Yes, I've heard it and tested the new version of the system.
It made me sell the H900. Enough said.

J.


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## BassBrat

Wow! The Pioneer P01 over alpine h900 says allot. It does have four d/a converters though!


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## kyheng

I wouldn't say DEH-P01 is better than H900, I would rather say it is circuit design and DAC applied dependent. 
Certain DAC shine on original CDs but won't shine on compressed audio formats.


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## doitor

I also wouldnt say its better, its just better for my application.
As far as sound goes, both are damn close.
But the H900 can do a lot more things as far as expandibility goes, 5.1, rear fill, etc.
All of which I was not using. 
So with half the price of my previous setup, Ill get the same results.

J.


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## FocusInCali

Any concern about the long RCA runs versus processor near amps?


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## doitor

FocusInCali said:


> Any concern about the long RCA runs versus processor near amps?


Not at all.
I also had the H900 plugged with RCAs.
Nice signature by the way. Lol.

J.


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## FocusInCali

Depending on funds, I may get to my system next Summer.

Along the lines of KiS, I'm considering L8 in doors, L4 in dash if they fit, 4ch amp, and by then will know if US version of P99RS is gonna happen.

Looking forward to your latest project.


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## doitor

L8's in the doors are pretty easy to do.
L4's in the dash is going to be a lot more fun.
Let me search for some pics of that and I'll pm you.

J.


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## FocusInCali

Sounds good, I'll look forward to seeing some photos.

Are you going to use a separate amp for left and right?
Or one amp for L1/L3, and another amp for L8s?
Or one amp L1/L8 and another L3/L8?

All left channels on one amp, then all right channels on another amp:
150 L1r, 150 L3r, 300 L8r, and same for left

Just wondering if using separate left and right amps might give some separation advantage?

This would have your RCA wiring more interesting, but seems like something to explore.


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## doitor

FocusInCali said:


> Sounds good, I'll look forward to seeing some photos.


Check your pm's/



FocusInCali said:


> Are you going to use a separate amp for left and right?
> 
> All left channels on one amp, then all right channels on another amp:
> 150 L1r, 150 L3r, 300 L8r, and same for left


Yes, Sir.
600/4 for the left and 600/4 for the right.
Left Front channel powering the L1v2 (150 watts).
Right Front channel powering the L3's (150 watts).
Rear channels bridged powering the L8's (300 watts).
1,200 watts on the frontstage.



FocusInCali said:


> just wondering if using separate left and right amps might give some separation advantage?


Yes, Sir.
It's called vertical amplification and it does help with stereo separation.



FocusInCali said:


> This would have your RCA wiring more interesting, but seems like something to explore.


I have it all in my mind. LOL.
The 8 channels will come in a single wire and end at the center of the car, where they will split.
Sub amp is going to be in the middle, left and right amps at the same distance from the middle.
I'll just split the wires there.
They will be identical in length.

J.


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## nirschl

doitor said:


> Check your pm's/
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Sir.
> 600/4 for the left and 600/4 for the right.
> Left Front channel powering the L1v2 (150 watts).
> Right Front channel powering the L3's (150 watts).
> Rear channels bridged powering the L8's (300 watts).
> 1,200 watts on the frontstage.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Sir.
> It's called vertical amplification and it does help with stereo separation.
> 
> 
> 
> I have it all in my mind. LOL.
> The 8 channels will come in a single wire and end at the center of the car, where they will split.
> Sub amp is going to be in the middle, left and right amps at the same distance from the middle.
> I'll just split the wires there.
> They will be identical in length.
> 
> J.


this is going to be interesting Jorge. Looking forward to seeing the finished product bubba!


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## douglas_tome

Great setup for sure, but the diference is in your work!!
One day I will know 50% of what you know.


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## trebor

Haven't heard from you in a while Jorge, I hope all is well, and your install is coming along.


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## doitor

trebor said:


> Haven't heard from you in a while Jorge, I hope all is well, and your install is coming along.


All is good, thanks.
Just been very busy.
Sadly no time to play right now.

J.


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## doitor

Some progress.
The RCA's are 95% done. All that's needed is some 3:1 1" white heatshrinks and some nice labels.
I ordered the 8 channel version of the Canare StarQuad cable but the store sent me the 12 channel one.
Just to give you a reference of the size of this thing here's a pic with 4 gauge power wire on the left, the 4 conductor Canare cable on the center and the 12 channel to the right.










It's a little bigger than 0 gauge wire.
So it was near impossible to solder that to the small wires of the rca harness, so I used a very small screwdriver to take the pins out of the harness.



















Soldered the pins to the assigned channel and put the pins back into the harness. I used black heatshrink for the ground and red for the "hot" wire.










After that was done I soldered the RCA plugs to the other end, covered the cables with white techflex and used some heatshrink.
This is how the cable stands right now.




























J.


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## LegendJeff

Damn, that is some diy spirit right there... Ill be checking in on this thread. good luck


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## m3gunner

Wow... that's some sweet wiring.


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## 46 & 2

Jorge-You must work faster.

Looking great.


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## ErinH

Jorge, is that a drain wire of some sort in the last harness picture?
(referencing the blue terminal ring)


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## kyheng

Looks like an extra ground I assume?


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## Megalomaniac

bikinpunk said:


> Jorge, is that a drain wire of some sort in the last harness picture?
> (referencing the blue terminal ring)


Drain for the shield.


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## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> Jorge, is that a drain wire of some sort in the last harness picture?
> (referencing the blue terminal ring)


Yes, it is.

J.


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## ErinH

where does it actually go, then? ground?

I've never had a drain from an RCA so forgive my ignorance. I'm just familiar with the fact that there is one in some cases.


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## Megalomaniac

bikinpunk said:


> where does it actually go, then? ground?
> 
> I've never had a drain from an RCA so forgive my ignorance. I'm just familiar with the fact that there is one in some cases.


Instead of tying the shield to the negative He is just grounding it externally. This way if he ever unplugs his RCAs hot(not that he would) the shield wont be damaged.

However, the Quadstar has a shield for the whole cable and then individual shields for each channel. So he might be doing both, not sure?


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## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> where does it actually go, then? ground?
> 
> I've never had a drain from an RCA so forgive my ignorance. I'm just familiar with the fact that there is one in some cases.


 I'll ground it to the chasis of the HU and then to the support bar behind the radio.
My Canadian SQ guru adviced it that way.

J.


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## AVIDEDTR

doitor said:


> I'll ground it to the chasis of the HU and then to the support bar behind the radio.
> My Canadian SQ guru adviced it that way.
> 
> J.


ROTFLMAO:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## tinctorus

doitor said:


> Yes, it is.
> 
> J.


I am interested in ordering the canar wire for my build I am in the process of and was curious if I am supposed to ground the drain wire
and if so do I ground it on one end or both as I noticed in one picture you have a ring terminal to ground it and then in another picture you have some wires twisted and looped back together but dont notice the drain/ground wire
also can you show a picture of how you connected the conductors to the rca ends
I have an idea but would like more positive proof that what I think is right IS actually the right way to do it


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## sam3535

tinctorus said:


> I am interested in ordering the canar wire for my build I am in the process of and was curious if I am supposed to ground the drain wire
> and if so do I ground it on one end or both as I noticed in one picture you have a ring terminal to ground it and then in another picture you have some wires twisted and looped back together but dont notice the drain/ground wire
> also can you show a picture of how you connected the conductors to the rca ends
> I have an idea but would like more positive proof that what I think is right IS actually the right way to do it


http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/8158-making-rca-cables.html
Low Cost DIY Interconnect Details, a How To Photo Gallery by shinjohn at pbase.com


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## doitor

tinctorus said:


> I am interested in ordering the canar wire for my build I am in the process of and was curious if I am supposed to ground the drain wire


 The drain wire is mostly used in pro audio applications and I dont really think it's a must in car audio, but since it's there why not use it.
It's only supposed to be grounded on the souce side.



tinctorus said:


> and if so do I ground it on one end or both as I noticed in one picture you have a ring terminal to ground it and then in another picture you have some wires twisted and looped back together but dont notice the drain/ground wire


 The twisted and looped back wires are an extra set of RCA's.
Since I ordered the 8 channel but got the 12, I left those for future expansion, or if any of the other channels goes bad I have spares.
No drain wire on the amps end.



tinctorus said:


> also can you show a picture of how you connected the conductors to the rca ends
> I have an idea but would like more positive proof that what I think is right IS actually the right way to do it


 I dont have pics of that part from this cable, but I just soldered the white wire to the center pin and the blue wire to the outter part.

J.


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## kyheng

Guess that ground is mainly for draining out any excess static charges.


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## doitor

Small change to the frontstage.














































J.


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## JKashat

Lookin good so far. Love the custom RCA wires. If I gave you lengths and paid you could you make me some too?


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## AdamTaylor

god i hate you and you L1PRO-LE's


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## JayinMI

Are those the new ring radiators? Mmmmm...


Jay


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## trebor

Those tweeters are ugly and don't match anything at all! If you hurry up and send them to me for safe keeping, I can hide them somewhere so people don't point and laugh at you.


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## doitor

JayinMI said:


> Are those the new ring radiators? Mmmmm...
> 
> 
> Jay


Yes.



trebor said:


> Those tweeters are ugly and don't match anything at all! If you hurry up and send them to me for safe keeping, I can hide them somewhere so people don't point and laugh at you.


No.

LOL.

J.


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## Megalomaniac

Are you really going to use them? I thought the whole reason for them to be made was to not to use them 










 Im glad youre actually going to use them, hopefully you enjoy them!


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## doitor

Ok, boys and girls.
Let's play a little game.
The first one to find the 3 differences in the next two pics wins $1 million dollars in monopoly money and half a bag of used polyfill.

Pic 1:










Pic 2:










Pic 1 and 2:










J.


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## subwoofery

1. Holes are bigger (pic 1) between the tweeter and the midrange 
2. The midrange and tweeter surroundings' a little whiter in pic 1 
3. You can see the L1 Pro SE in pic 1 but can't see the L1 Pro in pic 2... 

Did I win???!!!!! 

Kelvin


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## ErinH

why do you have smaller holes on one of the pillars than the other?
Was that done on purpose?


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## doitor

subwoofery said:


> 1. Holes are bigger (pic 1) between the tweeter and the midrange
> 2. The midrange and tweeter surroundings' a little whiter in pic 1
> 3. You can see the L1 Pro SE in pic 1 but can't see the L1 Pro in pic 2...
> 
> Did I win???!!!!!
> 
> Kelvin


Ding, ding, ding.
We have a winner.
You are welcomed to come claim your price at our facilities Monday thru Friday at bussiness hours.



bikinpunk said:


> why do you have smaller holes on one of the pillars than the other?
> Was that done on purpose?


Not on purpose.
Those holes where going to hold the grills in place until I thought about the magnets.
They dont go all the way thru.

J.


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## 12v Electronics

doitor said:


> Ok, boys and girls.
> Let's play a little game.
> The first one to find the 3 differences in the next two pics wins $1 million dollars in monopoly money and half a bag of used polyfill.


I'll take a guess. 

The A pillar trim is different!

Do I win??


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## doitor

12v Electronics said:


> I'll take a guess.
> 
> The A pillar trim is different!
> 
> Do I win??


Sorry Tom, you dont win.
Read the rules carefully and try again.

J.


----------



## 12v Electronics

doitor said:


> Sorry Tom, you dont win.
> Read the rules carefully and try again.
> 
> J.


Darn!!

Here goes:

A- pillar trim was re-covered
L3 porting was changed from 800hz to 1250 hz
And you installed a 1 farad digital capacitor?


----------



## Megalomaniac

I think you should have bought the black set


----------



## doitor

12v Electronics said:


> Darn!!
> 
> Here goes:
> 
> A- pillar trim was re-covered
> L3 porting was changed from 800hz to 1250 hz
> And you installed a 1 farad digital capacitor?


Man, that was close.



Megalomaniac said:


> I think you should have bought the black set


Good to know.

J.


----------



## 12v Electronics

doitor said:


> Man, that was close.


I don't know if you fired those SE's up yet, but you are going to LOVE them!!

I spent all day yesterday listening and admiring. Scott REALLY did a great job on them.


----------



## Megalomaniac

doitor said:


> Good to know.
> 
> J.


Wasnt an attack, but dont you think the black would have blended in better for a sleeper as you intended?


----------



## doitor

12v Electronics said:


> I don't know if you fired those SE's up yet, but you are going to LOVE them!!
> 
> I spent all day yesterday listening and admiring. Scott REALLY did a great job on them.


I should be able to get a quick listen tomorrow.

J.


----------



## ErinH

doitor said:


> Good to know.
> 
> J.


LMFAO!


----------



## doitor

Megalomaniac said:


> Wasnt an attack, but dont you think the black would have blended in better for a sleeper as you intended?


Reasons why I bought the silver ones:

a) My car has silver trims
b) Only 40 sets in this color. 110 sets in black
c) "Sleeper" mode is accomplished with a grill which I've used with the L1v2's.
d) This is NOT going to be the final location for the frontstage speakers. I'll use the old pillars to test the new tweeters while I finish the back. That way I have music.










J.


----------



## jooonnn

Is that a Street Wires CBR44S distribution block? 

I have been so intrigued by those, do the accept a 1/0 Gauge Input/Output?


----------



## doitor

jooonnn said:


> Is that a Street Wires CBR44S distribution block?
> 
> I have been so intrigued by those, do the accept a 1/0 Gauge Input/Output?


Actually mine is the CBR44M, that uses MAXI fuses.
They made versions for AGU (CBR44A), MAXI (CBR44M) and AFS (CBR44S) fuses.

They all can take 0 gauge in for power and ground (using ring terminals) and can take 4 gauge outs or smaller.

J.


----------



## pinocho2618

nice installation


----------



## jooonnn

doitor said:


> Actually mine is the CBR44M, that uses MAXI fuses.
> They made versions for AGU (CBR44A), MAXI (CBR44M) and AFS (CBR44S) fuses.
> 
> They all can take 0 gauge in for power and ground (using ring terminals) and can take 4 gauge outs or smaller.
> 
> J.


Ah the envy, now I have to find one, do you have any idea where I can possibly get one or something similar? Also what is your suggestion if I'm looking for a 1/0 gauge kit. Are the street wires or kicker kits pretty good?


----------



## doitor

jooonnn said:


> Ah the envy, now I have to find one, do you have any idea where I can possibly get one or something similar? Also what is your suggestion if I'm looking for a 1/0 gauge kit. Are the street wires or kicker kits pretty good?


Streetwires discontinued them. I bought mine on eBay.
Audison still has the SFD 41C, which seems to have one output that can take bigger wire according to the pic and specs, it doesnt need ring terminals and it has an output to expand it.



> FUSED DISTRIBUTION
> INPUT: 1 x 1/0AWG,
> OUTPUT: 1 x 2AWG, 3 x 4AWG (8AWG adapter included)
> DISTRIBUTION BLOCK
> INPUT: 1 x 1/0AWG,
> OUTPUT: 1 x 2AWG, 3 x 4AWG (8AWG adapter included)












J.


----------



## TREOUSAMPS_GP

looks nice


----------



## doitor

Not a lot of progress but some good news for me.
Project L8's in the kicks in back on track after a cool find last Sunday.
I took most of the car apart again and found some lids held in place with adhesive. After I took the adhesive out I found a crumple zone about 3 lt's big that vents to the outside. The hole is 5X3 inches in a kidney form. The holes that vents to the outside are facing the rear of the vehicle. I left it open knowing that there was going to rain Monday and did a test drive. After a good 30 minute drive under heavy rain, going thru puddles the enclosures where bone dry.




























Last night I made some cardboard templates and cut identical baffles made out of 3/4" Birch.



















In normal driving position I end up:

48 inches from where the left L3 Pro and L1 Pro SE 
49 inches from where the left L8
58 inches from where the left L3 Pro and L1 Pro SE
59 inches from where the left L8

PLD for mid/tweets is 10 inches.
PLD for midbass is 10 inches.

With the extensions and the seats all the way back I get:

59 inches from where the left L3 Pro and L1 Pro SE
58 inches from where the left L8
67 inches from where the left L3 Pro and L1 Pro
66 inches from where the left L8's

PLD for mid/tweets is 8 inches.
PLD for midbass is 8 inches.

Distance from Left speakers to right speakers is 53 inches.
I aimed the L8 baffles to the same spot where the L3-L1 baffle aims.

J.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

SICK!!!!!


----------



## jorgegarcia

*wow!! Doitor*



doitor said:


>


WOW! Just WOW! New Balance shoes. I'm an ASICS kind of guy myself.


----------



## Notloudenuf

*Re: wow!! Doitor*



jorgegarcia said:


> WOW! Just WOW! New Balance shoes. I'm an ASICS kind of guy myself.


I have those exact same shoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! omgwtf


----------



## doitor

*Re: wow!! Doitor*



jorgegarcia said:


> WOW! Just WOW! New Balance shoes. I'm an ASICS kind of guy myself.





Notloudenuf said:


> I have those exact same shoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! omgwtf


Will you two focus please.
LOL.

J.


----------



## 12v Electronics

(and I am not talking about shoes)


----------



## bbfoto

J.,

You're a crazy bastage. Get those L8's as far into the Left & Right Corners of the kickpanels as you can. ATM, it looks like you might have a problem with the position of the E-brake?

She's not leased is she? Are you willing to cut her? :evilgrin:


:snacks:


PS Must be comfy shoes...might have to pick up a pair, lol.


----------



## HondAudio

Just my opinion, but if you have room on each side for an 8", it looks like you jolly-well have room for 2


----------



## doitor

bbfoto said:


> J.,
> 
> You're a crazy bastage. Get those L8's as far into the Left & Right Corners of the kickpanels as you can. ATM, it looks like you might have a problem with the position of the E-brake?
> 
> She's not leased is she? Are you willing to cut her? :evilgrin:
> 
> 
> :snacks:
> 
> 
> PS Must be comfy shoes...might have to pick up a pair, lol.


I'll take a pic from a different angle, but there are no problems with the parking brake.
She's all mine and paid for, but I still don't want to cut any holes.

J.


----------



## doitor

HondAudio said:


> Just my opinion, but if you have room on each side for an 8", it looks like you jolly-well have room for 2


One L8 per side is more than enough.
I still need to test if they will work properly because they need to "see" a lot of air to play low.

J.


----------



## 12v Electronics

doitor said:


> One L8 per side is more than enough.
> I still need to test if they will work properly because they need to "see" a lot of air to play low.
> 
> J.


If it is vented to the outside you should be all good. (unless you are going to seal it up of course)

I would also guess that that area also vents into other parts of the frame like the A-pillar, door thresholds, etc. You could probably seal it and still have tons of airspace.


----------



## doitor

12v Electronics said:


> If it is vented to the outside you should be all good. (unless you are going to seal it up of course)
> 
> I would also guess that that area also vents into other parts of the frame like the A-pillar, door thresholds, etc. You could probably seal it and still have tons of airspace.


The cavity only vents to the outside.
In one of the pics you can see the baffle where I used to have the L4's. That one does vent into the pillar, frame rail, etc.
The plan is to only vent it to the outside, but if it needs more air I can vent it to both places.

J.


----------



## doitor

Slow but steady progress.
Routered the mounting holes for the L8's.




























J.


----------



## BigRed

Lookin good Jorge.


----------



## 12v Electronics

Now I see where how those kidney shaped openings come into play. Nice of Mazda to put them there! It's like this car was designed with HAT in mind


----------



## doitor

12v Electronics said:


> Now I see where how those kidney shaped openings come into play. Nice of Mazda to put them there! It's like this car was designed with HAT in mind


I totally agree, Tom.
This car is an amazing platform for a sound system.
Here's a pic of where the crumple zone cavity vents to the outside.
The yellow circles are the holes that I've found so far.










J.


----------



## nirschl

This is looking real nice Jorge. By the looks of it it seems you are going to have something going in that dash as well eh....


----------



## doitor

nirschl said:


> This is looking real nice Jorge. By the looks of it it seems you are going to have something going in that dash as well eh....


Yes, Sir.
L3 Pros and L1 Pro SE's in the dash and on/under the a pillar.
I will have killer PLD's with the seats all the way back and the drivers on the same side will be on the same distance from me.
That's depending on tests after the amp rack is done, hu is in, etc, etc.
Still a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it.

J.


----------



## Dr. MERINO

a greeting, doitor powerful! is a pleasure being able to read and view here so magnificent installation, excellent amplifiers and especially the HU, I learn to see here in this forum, a bit difficult because everything is in English, but nothing is impossible!

greetings and look forward to seeing the progress of your new installation.

Mexide greetings


----------



## DjWeeDY

Very nice build, can't wait to see more.


----------



## doitor

Managed to install and seal the passenger side kick yesterday.
Added some SS Damplifier Pro to the back of the baffle.










Screwed the baffle in place to the car in several locations.










Covered the entire baffle and gaps with more Damplifier Pro and sprayed Polyetilene foam inside where the baffle meets the car to seal all the holes.










Put a 10" grill to protect the L8.










I'll do some tests tonight with the WT3 woofer tester and report back.

J.


----------



## nirschl

^^ Very nice!


----------



## ErinH

Jorge, same comment as elsewhere...mass load.
Do it now before it's too late!


----------



## BigRed

whatever you do, make the baffle as solid as possible to the floor. IMO, those brackets are not going to cut it. I also did the spray foam and had to redo it with fiberglass. take it from somebody that redid there floor midbass's 3 times 

Just trying to save you some hours of fab work 

Rawk on my friend


----------



## doitor

Thanks for the tips, guys.

J.


----------



## ErinH

BigRed said:


> whatever you do, make the baffle as solid as possible to the floor. IMO, those brackets are not going to cut it. I also did the spray foam and had to redo it with fiberglass. take it from somebody that redid there floor midbass's 3 times
> 
> Just trying to save you some hours of fab work
> 
> Rawk on my friend


Red, good advice. I actually spent the weekend reworking my kicks, too. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/922497-post1148.html

I learned just how important it is to mass load inside the enclosure and around it. Wish I had a chance to do it before my kicks were done, or to talk to my installer about doing it. What would have taken 2 hours up front, took me about 6 hours this weekend.

Jorge can learn from our mistakes, lol.


----------



## bbfoto

Jorge,

Looks great! But I agree with Erin and Jim regarding the Mass Loading and a SOLID baffle. Those L8 have lots of Torque!

Take out your Baffle. Then lay down Two Full Layers of Deadener/Mat on the Floor/Firewall/Side Wall of Kickpanels. On top of that put a Layer of Luxury Liner Pro or DynaPad (Vinyl Barrier with Acoustic Foam).

Cut a Horizontal and Vertical slit through the Mat/Liner in the Center of the Kidney-shaped vent, e.g. like a "+", and then "wrap" the excess 180-degreess into the vent hole so it sticks to the inside wall of the opening.

Try to get at least One Layer of each: Mat and Liner, or Mat and 1-8"-3/16" Ensolite (closed-cell) Foam on the sheet-metal inside the Vent Area in the subframe. This is to prevent vibration and reduce reflections off of the sheet metal that will reflect back through the woofer cone. If you are installing an AP membrane in the vent hole this is less important, but I would still try to get at least a layer of Mat on the sheet metal inside the subframe.

Tape Off the entire area and FG the entire "Back Wall" of the "Enclosure" so it's at least 1/4" thick, then cut out your Kidney-Shaped vent opening in the FG. Line your new FB "enclosure" with a layer of Mat and Acoustical Foam. 

Now Fiberglass the Front Baffle to your new "Enclosure" back. Secure to the enclosure to the car using your metal strapping, but Isolate/Sandwich the Screws or Bolts and Strapping with Rubber Grommets.

It's A LOT of work, but take it from me, Jim, and Erin, it IS worth the extra time!!! 

The idea is to ISOLATE the "Enclosure" and the Mechanical Energy of the Mid-bass drivers from the Frame and surrounding surfaces of the vehicle. You Do Not want to hear or feel ANY Resonation Whatsoever from the Mid-bass, you only want to hear the energy or "music" that the Cone is producing. Yes, you will definitely feel the air on your leather pantalones, lol, but keeping the mechanical vibrations from your feet through the floor and the surrounding panels of the vehicle will reduce your ability to Localize the source! IME, Imaging, Staging, and Depth are much improved this way!

I will stress again the importance of getting the drivers as far as you can into the corner of the kickpanels. I would consider making new baffles even if you only gain a single Inch of distance between the Left and Right mid-bass.

Now get to work, lol! (Easy for me to say as I sit here and watch, buwahhaaa!)

However, I PROMISE that you will love the results.

Billy B.


----------



## doitor

LOL.
Awesome advise, Billy.
That's the most elaborate build I've heard of kickpanels.
Most just have the baffle screwed in place.
I might give this ones a shot, listen, measure and then go the "overkill" route to hear the difference.

J.


----------



## ErinH

something else I wanted to mention...

does the L8 have a vent pole?
If so, make sure you don't choke it. Easy way to tell is to set the driver on the bench, play free air, listen for the resonance and take note. When you put the driver back in, see if it's doing this. You may want to build an extra baffle just for testing purposes to bring the driver further out from the back of the enclosure. See if you notice a difference. You're not really making the enclosure bigger at all; just pulling the driver further out of the enclosure to allow the vent pole to actually vent.
I went through this as well.


----------



## doitor

It does have a vent pole, but it will "fire" directly into the kidney form hole.

J.


----------



## ErinH

Good deal.


----------



## bbfoto

doitor said:


> LOL.
> Awesome advise, Billy.
> That's the most elaborate build I've heard of kickpanels.
> Most just have the baffle screwed in place.
> I might give this ones a shot, listen, measure and then go the "overkill" route to hear the difference.
> 
> J.


Jorge,

If you take a look at the best Home Audiophile speakers, you will always notice the time and attention paid to the Enclosure design and build. It's just as important as the drivers selected. You want to hear the speakers, not the cabinet.

Take an Auto Mechanic's Stethoscope and place it on various areas of your Baffle and the sheet metal of the car while your L8's are playing their intended frequency range. I'm willing to bet that you'll hear quite a bit of energy in a lot of areas! Of course, when you place it on the areas covered by Mat and Foam/Liner, you're not going to hear much. 

My home speaker enclosures happen to be carved from a solid block of 2.5sqft. marble, ending up with a rounded tear-drop enclosure with solid 2"-thick walls. You don't hear much when your place your ear against them, lol!

As an example, if Erin would have built his enclosures with the techniques I outlined in my previous post, I'm pretty sure that he wouldn't need to do all the extra Mass-Loading with the BB's and Modeling Clay now. 

He's trying to dampen resonances that wouldn't exist if he had Isolated the Enclosures and Mid-bass Drivers from the structure of the vehicle. After having the same problem in my installs for years, and heaps of trial and error, I finally took a hard look at the best home audio loudspeakers. It's truly an amazing experience when all you feel and hear is the actual air that is "excited" by all of the speaker cones, without the vibrations or rattling/resonating panels! 

Erin, very good advice on the rear pole vent as well! I had this exact problem with a FG subwoofer enclosure I made several years ago. It's perfect that Jorge's L8 pole vents happen to line up with the vent hole. 

Happy fabricating!


----------



## doitor

bbfoto said:


> Jorge, Take an Auto Mechanic's Stethoscope !


 Can I use a Dr. stethoscope? I happen to own a few.
Joking aside, I dont think there's enough room in there for all those layers of material, but I'll sure apply the most out of that technique I can.
Here are the impedance curves I managed to take last night.

L8 in free air.










L8 in the passenger side kick.










J.


----------



## ErinH

I posted this info up in my build thread, but thought I’d share it in Jorge’s as well. We had been PM’ing back and forth, and I figured it would be good for others to see some of my words of wisdom.
These are some of my ‘lessons learned’ from the kicks.

Let me first say that I had my kicks built for me by Steve Cook of Audio X in Florence, Al. He did a great job on them. However, there were some issues that I hadn’t even remotely considered to talk to him about. So, all the work and tuning I’ve been doing the past year or so as well as the work I did this weekend has been aimed at improving the install. I’m not a pro installer… I’m nobody in this realm. I do, however, have some experience with making my own kicks work. Here’s some of my lessons learned...

*1. MASS LOAD THE SHEET METAL!* I used clay + BBs to do this. You can use whatever you want. There was a layer of damplifier pro already on the sheet metal, but it simply wasn’t enough. 
I loaded down the sheet metal with about 5 lbs of clay, both inside the enclosure and outside. I also loaded down the foot pan area to keep the resonance from traveling through the car. This really seemed to help me solve 

*2. Be weary of cabin gain and standing waves.* I HIGHLY suggest stuffing the crap out of your dash. Jbpolsters mentioned in my thread making underdash pads, which is a good idea. However, we know the wavelength of midbass… you’re going to need more than just ½” thick foam here. I picked up 2 5# bags of polyfill from walmart, and also some eggcrate foam. I have this stuffed in my dash everywhere I could get to. I’m going to make an underdash pad tonight from left over LLP so I can get some mass in there, too. 
I also had bleed through from the midbasses up through the dash. That’s where the polyfill, stuffed into the dash crevices, played a huge role. You could also use towels, but the polyfill is easier to stuff than towels are. 

You will have cabin gain… I don’t see any way around it. 140-200hz is killer in my car. I have 160hz cut like a mother (about -9dB). I had some cabin gain with the midbasses in the doors, but NOTHING like what I have now with them essentially corner loaded. Think of placing a subwoofer down there. You know you’re going to get corner loading. The same seems to happen to the midbasses, which makes sense. I had to do some EQ work to handle it. 
*
3.	AP mat.* You can use the Scanspeak variovents, or you can just make your own. 
You can use any sort of metal grill material and just sandwich fiberglass insulation between it. You can glue the metal down, or just do what I did and use modeling clay to hold it in place. It’s not going anywhere in this case. 
It takes less time to do that than it does to figure out how to mount the scan vents. 

And I can’t stress enough the importance of sandwiching the vent material to the vent grilles. I literally had about 2mm space between the vent material and the vent grilles. This little bit of wiggle room was enough to cause my vent material to ‘rattle’ against the vent grilles and cause all sorts of resonance issues. After making my own grille out of scrap perforated aluminum, and sandwiching the material _tight_ between the grille, the problem is almost non-existent.

Here’s a picture of the inside of my enclosures after this weekend’s work to fix some problems.










Hope that helps you guys.


----------



## doitor

Awesome info, E.
Thanks for sharing.

J.


----------



## bbfoto

> Can I use a Dr. stethoscope? I happen to own a few.


Why not try it, Dr. Jorge?! ...Okay CX-7, now take a deep breath for me...and again at 80Hz...and one more around 60Hz. That'll do it. Well, I hear a bit of resonance, but nothing to really worry about. Continue to apply massive doses of Deadener along with the Barrier/Foam combination and you should be in top shape in no time. lol

Impedance curve looks a bit better, too. Got that little bump/resonance around 180Hz. I'll be interested to see after you measure the response from the listening position with both L/R drivers playing...see if you get a huge peak like Erin mentioned, or a huge dip/cancellation. You'll always get at least a bit of one or the other in this range...it's just the physics of sound within the boundries of the car interior.

Good chit, Erin! Sure to save at least a few of us from a good amount of grief!


----------



## BigRed

Thats funny Erin, because I had a boost at 160hz that was obnoxious 

I too added sound absorption below my dash and its damn near gone. Yes you will get some peaks and possibly some valleys without proper treatment


----------



## lancewhitefield

Thanks Jorge, for the great information and pictures. I am attempting my first "high end system" and am learning something new with every thread I read. But this is one of the most detailed installs I have the opprotunity of following. Thanks agian.
P.S. Every one at the shop wants me to take my spare tire and/or back seat out and I refuse because a car is meant to drive and have fun with. I can not wait to take a road trip once I get my install complete.


----------



## doitor

lancewhitefield said:


> Thanks Jorge, for the great information and pictures. I am attempting my first "high end system" and am learning something new with every thread I read. But this is one of the most detailed installs I have the opprotunity of following. Thanks agian.
> P.S. Every one at the shop wants me to take my spare tire and/or back seat out and I refuse because a car is meant to drive and have fun with. I can not wait to take a road trip once I get my install complete.


I couldnt agree more, lance.
This is my only car and it's keeping the spare.
There are a LOT of guys into SQ and with great ears in your area.
Take advantage of that.
And if I can help you in any way, let me know.

J.


----------



## BettaJetta

doitor said:


> Streetwires discontinued them. I bought mine on eBay.
> Audison still has the SFD 41C, which seems to have one output that can take bigger wire according to the pic and specs, it doesnt need ring terminals and it has an output to expand it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J.


I think this is the same one you were talking about. I really like it and one connection is bigger than the others. I really like it because of the Positive and Negative connection in one location. Here is a pic of mine.


----------



## 99IntegraGS

BettaJetta said:


>


I may have missed it, but where can we get these?

TIA,

JD


----------



## doitor

99IntegraGS said:


> I may have missed it, but where can we get these?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> JD


This are pretty rare and expensive.
Try to find an Audison dealer to get more info.

J.


----------



## tinctorus

BettaJetta said:


> I think this is the same one you were talking about. I really like it and one connection is bigger than the others. I really like it because of the Positive and Negative connection in one location. Here is a pic of mine.


Hotdamn I want that distro block SOOOO BAD I can almost taste it

What was the price on that thing BTW??


----------



## BettaJetta

They are expensive. I got a deal on mine but they run about 70 Euros here in Germany. The shop where I bought mine does not use them very much anymore. There is another company that uses the same internals and a different overall shape(Square) but looks clean and sells for about half the price. I will ask him which company it is when I visit the shop again next week.


----------



## newtitan

okay dude that wiring is officially RIDICULOUS!!!!

im not sure I have the soldering skills, but im definitely going to try lol


----------



## bbfoto

I don't want to take this thread too far off topic, but a BIG word of WARNING if you are going to use these Audison Distro Blocks (or the very similar Streetwires #CBR44S)!!!

It is VERY EASY to Arc or Short-Circuit these Fuse Blocks when installing or changing ANL type (Screw-In) Fuses. In addition to the Fuse itself sliding/moving/falling between the blocks, you also have to use a metal Hex Key wrench that may also short the block. Yes, they do make Insulated T-handle Hex keys, so be sure to use one if you have this distro block. Streetwires discontinued their #CBR44S distro block along with the one that uses AGU fuses for this very reason.

Yes, of course, you must have and must REMOVE the Main System Fuse at the Battery that feeds these blocks, but too many of us DIY'ers (Pro Installers included) that have been Fiberglassing for too long and lost a few brain cells just plain forget...and then, ZAP, POW, CRACKLE, POOOOOF!

Streetwires replaced their block with the #CBR44M that uses MAXI fuses. This is what I would personally recommend even though I think that Audison block is way sexier:

Photo of CBR44M distro block with Maxi fuses...










If you keep the plastic cover on the CBR44M you can Swap Fuses all day long and it's impossible to Short-Circuit. I personally like that it uses Ring Terminals for the Power & Ground Inputs, unlike the Audison block. When combined with the 1/0ga. Streetwires Inter-Lok Power Ring Terminals found at Parts Express, IMO it doesn't get much better.

If you keep an eye out you can get the CBR44M for as low as $40 SHIPPED. Unfortunately, they are getting harder and harder to find. 

And the 1/0-AWG Streetwires Inter-Lok Power Ring Terminals - $25/Pair at Parts Express (#263-638):









Parts-Express.com:StreetWires PRI0 1/0 AWG Inter-Lok Power Ring Pair | streetwires PRI0 1/0 AWG Inter-Lok powerring ring terminal battery power amp

Just my .02, now back to Jorge's install...


----------



## tinctorus

That one will work just as well and looks JUST as sexy IMO


----------



## yomama07024

yooooooooooooooooooooooo


----------



## BettaJetta

Yes it does look nice!


----------



## doitor

I agree with Billy.
I'll be using the Streetwires block with MAXI fuses for those reasons.

J.


----------



## redgst97

J: I might have some old skool StreetWires rings in the basement....LMK if you need any.


----------



## doitor

Mini update.
My car has been in pieces at least 8 months every year I've owned it (mostly because of lack of free time) and having it like that gives me new ideas.
The latest one involves putting all 3 HD amps in a new rack in the center console.
Some of the advantages of this approach are: no use of any hatch real state, very short rca's, very short power and ground wires, very short speaker wires, easy access to the amp controls, etc, etc.
The only "problem" I see with this approach is cooling, but I'll redirect some A/C ducts to keep them cool and also will leave most of the sides open with metal grille.
I'll fabricate a new console to hide the rack.
Enough talk, here are some pics.










With the seat at normal driving position.










With the seat at "critical listening" position.










From behind.










All 3 amps will be stacked horizontally. (The duct tape is just for ilustrative purposes :icon_cheesygrin: )



















The Streetwires distroblock will be in there also, so my longest power/ground wire should be about 4-5 inches long.

By putting the amps like that I'll keep all the wires in 3 levels:

a) Lower level: Power and Ground wires.
b) Mid level: RCA's
c) Top level: Speaker wires.

That's all folks. :icon_cheesygrin: 

J.


----------



## nirschl

^^Nice
Most all those reasons you pointed out are exactly why I did what I did with mine, Jorge.
I love having short cable runs and the ability to use the rear of the vehicle when needed. 
It has long been a wish of mine to get a nice SQ oriented sub in my console area and the more I think about it the more I want to do it. I've got room still under either of my seats for another Arc amp for such purpose. 

Happy fabricating!

Pete

Ps- That was also why I gave those HD amps some serious consideration before. I can stack two on each side no problem with some room for cooling to spare. 
Now the Arc's have the built in fans and stay super cool.


----------



## pankrok

dont forget the increased damping factor of the much shorter speaker cables.
go for it!


----------



## DJSPANKY

Doitor- looks great. Nice work welding up a secure amp rack. One question- is the distro block sitting in it's final position? If so it looks like (at least in the pic) you're going to have to bend the power and ground wires prety tightly. That is unless you are planning to run them out the drivers side of the console. 

What are your plans for routing the power and ground wires?


----------



## doitor

DJSPANKY said:


> is the distro block sitting in it's final position? If so it looks like (at least in the pic) you're going to have to bend the power and ground wires prety tightly. That is unless you are planning to run them out the drivers side of the console.


I will tilt it a bit, so that the power and ground wires get in there from the passenger side and under the rack.
The rack is lifted off the ground by about 1.5".
More than enough clearance for 0 gauge.



DJSPANKY said:


> What are your plans for routing the power and ground wires?


0 gauge power wire from the battery to the distro block (about 7 feet. Maybe a bit less)
0 gauge ground wire from under the drivers seat to the distro block (8-9 inches tops).
4 gauge power/ground wire from the distro block to the amps (4-5 inches max).

J.


----------



## doitor

Made the amp rack 2.5" shorter.
That will allow more room to make the new console.



















A friend is coming to lend a hand this weekend, so expect a bunch of progress pics next week.

J.


----------



## lancewhitefield

Shortening the consle that 2.5" made a big differnce, it looks more proportional.


----------



## 8675309

I am looking forward to chatting with you soon. Looking good on all the things that are going on. Like those big hybrid 8's in the floor. Maybe I should get down with some 8's? Like the amp rack starts in the middle.

I want to give you an invite to the 1st annual TC Audio Show in Fordyce Arkansas. We will be sponsoring the American Cancer Society and would love for you to make it.


----------



## sydmonster

lancewhitefield said:


> Shortening the consle that 2.5" made a big differnce, it looks more proportional.


+1... agreed.


----------



## doitor

8675309 said:


> I am looking forward to chatting with you soon. Looking good on all the things that are going on. Like those big hybrid 8's in the floor. Maybe I should get down with some 8's? Like the amp rack starts in the middle.


Thanks, buddy.
Moving the L8's from the doors to the kicks is going to have a BIG impact on sound.
I'm really looking forward to getting this version done and see/hear what I can make it sound like.
As far as the amp rack in the center console, that's also going to help me a lot with the main goal of this version which was to gain the lost real state and have full use of it as a daily driver.




8675309 said:


> I want to give you an invite to the 1st annual TC Audio Show in Fordyce Arkansas. We will be sponsoring the American Cancer Society and would love for you to make it.


Thanks for the invite.
I just put it in my calendar and hope to be able to make it.
It's a great cause.

J.


----------



## doitor

lancewhitefield said:


> Shortening the consle that 2.5" made a big differnce, it looks more proportional.


I agree.
The first version of the rack was made to the same dimentions as the stock console, but I didnt take into consideration a bunch of things.
This new one will make it a lot easier to integrate and I still have room to spare in there for the amps, distro block and to be able to route the wiring in a cool way.

J.


----------



## doitor

What the hell is my car doing at a glass shop?










Looks like something is missing.










There are a bunch of pro's for not having a windshield, like:

a) No need to turn on the A/C. :icon_cheesygrin: 
b) It feels like you are driving a bike, mut much safer. You cant fall. :icon_cheesygrin: 
c) Awesome sense of speed with the wind in your face. :icon_cheesygrin: 
d) etc, etc.

On a serious note, a friend is coming over this weekend to try and get the Mazda done.
I'm taking a mini vacation and between us we should make a lot of progress.
I had the windshield removed to be able to put the L3's and L1 Pro SE's where I want to.
Here are some pics of whats there.





































J.


----------



## drtool

When I do a new install I always ask myself WWDD.?

What would Doitor do?

My windshield looks scared


----------



## doitor

drtool said:


> When I do a new install I always ask myself WWDD.?
> 
> What would Doitor do?
> 
> My windshield looks scared


LOL.

Just finished modding the RCA's.
I still need to make it look good, but it woks fine.
Final lenght: 46 inches. That's 2 inches short of 4 feet.










J.


----------



## TREETOP

I've got most of my amps in my center console too, good idea on that. Like you mentioned- the benefits are shorter RCA, power, and speaker wire runs as well as the clearance of real estate elsewhere in the vehicle.
The only downfall in mine is with the vehicle off during quiet passages in the music, I can hear the fans from my MC440. That obviously won't be a problem with your JL amps. 
Thank you for posting this build log, I'm enjoying following along.


----------



## HondAudio

doitor said:


> What the hell is my car doing at a glass shop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like something is missing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a bunch of pro's for not having a windshield, like:
> 
> a) No need to turn on the A/C. :icon_cheesygrin:
> b) It feels like you are driving a bike, mut much safer. You cant fall. :icon_cheesygrin:
> c) Awesome sense of speed with the wind in your face. :icon_cheesygrin:
> d) etc, etc.
> 
> On a serious note, a friend is coming over this weekend to try and get the Mazda done.
> I'm taking a mini vacation and between us we should make a lot of progress.
> I had the windshield removed to be able to put the L3's and L1 Pro SE's where I want to.
> Here are some pics of whats there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J.


HE'S FINALLY DONE IT... HE'S GONE CRAZY!

Doiter is going to put his speakers *in the engine compartment*!


----------



## pankrok

before deciding to go with the a pillars I wanted to put mids on the dashboard.
after several weeks of discusions and tests we finally realised that doing so required to create "natural ventilation" as above so we end up in pillars. apparently you didn't 

do I see 6lts fiberglass sealed box there or have I gone to far?

keep on giving me ideas! (after all you cannot sell a car if you have not make at least 2 complete installations + small modifications )


----------



## BigRed

I thought you were getting serious?


----------



## niceguy

I always like seeing installs using the dash layout....that's been the best setup for me in my Grand Voyager work van for years (running Northcreek large format tweets) and it has everything!

However, since finally joining the 20th (I mean't 20th) century and getting an Ipod, I've done the audio equivalent of slumming around in worn out jogging pants. No more tweaking, tuning, swapping. Just hitting 'play' and enjoying it


----------



## doitor

Weekend progress update.
My good friend Felipe (aka. Super1) did an amazing job on the center console.
He made an OEM looking console from scratch with my very limited tools.
Here are some pics of the amazing work.









































































In the above pics you can see that I will have access to the amps/wiring/distro block from the top of the console and from behind.
He still need to vinil it and it will look as if Mazda made it.

J.


----------



## BigRed

nice!


----------



## IBcivic

that guy has some talent...very nice


----------



## pankrok

promising


----------



## lycan

hey hope you guys don't mind some input from a guy more immersed in "theory" than practise ...

Fantastic work, doitor et al  But i'll offer a couple things that some may find controversial about midbass drivers, if i may.

Things to worry about :

- ENCLOSURE!! Yes, everything offered about enclosure construction, and _isolation_ from the sheet metal of the vehicle, makes good sense to me.

Things NOT to worry about :

- aiming. At midbass wavelengths, these 8" drivers will radiate uniformly in _all_ directions. No need to get all fussy about aiming them.

- location. yeah, i said it. Sure, we want them as far to the left & right as possible. But if we have to sacrifice some width, there's a way to "electronically" move them to _virtual_ locations _wider_. A great technique, especially well-suited for _midbass_ (as opposed to _midrange_) drivers.

So, my conclusion is this : pick a location _somehwere_ to the left & right. A location that's not too fussy about aiming, but IS fussy about building a GREAT enclosure. If they're not as far "wide" as you would like, we can fix that with some electronic magic ... and no, i'm not talking about _time delay_ or EQ


----------



## doitor

lycan said:


> hey hope you guys don't mind some input from a guy more immersed in "theory" than practise ...
> 
> Fantastic work, doitor et al  But i'll offer a couple things that some may find controversial about midbass drivers, if i may.
> 
> Things to worry about :
> 
> - ENCLOSURE!! Yes, everything offered about enclosure construction, and _isolation_ from the sheet metal of the vehicle, makes good sense to me.
> 
> Things NOT to worry about :
> 
> - aiming. At midbass wavelengths, these 8" drivers will radiate uniformly in _all_ directions. No need to get all fussy about aiming them.
> 
> - location. yeah, i said it. Sure, we want them as far to the left & right as possible. But if we have to sacrifice some width, there's a way to "electronically" move them to _virtual_ locations _wider_. A great technique, especially well-suited for _midbass_ (as opposed to _midrange_) drivers.
> 
> So, my conclusion is this : pick a location _somehwere_ to the left & right. A location that's not too fussy about aiming, but IS fussy about building a GREAT enclosure. If they're not as far "wide" as you would like, we can fix that with some electronic magic ... and no, i'm not talking about _time delay_ or EQ


On the contrary, thanks for your input.
Where would you put the L8's in my car?
In the kick area that's the best way they fit and still vent to the outside.
I had them in the doors, but resonances are hard to tame.

J.


----------



## lycan

doitor said:


> On the contrary, thanks for your input.
> Where would you put the L8's in my car?
> In the kick area that's the best way they fit and still vent to the outside.
> I had them in the doors, but resonances are hard to tame.
> 
> J.


please don't misunderstand me ... the kick panels are FINE. But if you find that you can get a more solid, more-uncoupled _enclosure_, with more needed _airspace_, by moving them _inward_ by a few inches, don't hesitate  All of the "enclosure woes" can't be fixed electronically (simple size can be helped electronically, but not rattles & reflections), but the "width" _can_ be improved electronically ... and yes, for _both_ front seat listeners at the same time.

In other words, find the best ENCLOSURE somewhere to the left & right, even if the drivers don't seem to be _aimed_ correctly. Electronic manipulation can help improve their "virtual position".


----------



## doitor

lycan said:


> please don't misunderstand me ... the kick panels are FINE. But if you find that you can get a more solid, more-uncoupled _enclosure_, with more needed _airspace_, by moving them _inward_ by a few inches, don't hesitate  All of the "enclosure woes" can't be fixed electronically (simple size can be helped electronically, but not rattles & reflections), but the "width" _can_ be improved electronically ... and yes, for _both_ front seat listeners at the same time.
> 
> In other words, find the best ENCLOSURE somewhere to the left & right, even if the drivers don't seem to be _aimed_ correctly. Electronic manipulation can help improve their "virtual position".


Got it.
That's the best location, but I do need to improve the "enclosure".
Thanks.

J.


----------



## ErinH

edit: removed


----------



## BigRed

Lycan is absolutely right about enclsosure. I just fiberglassed my midbass enclsoures and isolated them from the metal of the truck. HUGE difference in response....let me repeat......HUGE difference. all nasty resonances are gone.


----------



## lycan

BigRed said:


> Lycan is absolutely right about enclsosure. I just fiberglassed my midbass enclsoures and isolated them from the metal of the truck. HUGE difference in response....let me repeat......HUGE difference. all nasty resonances are gone.


no ... don't credit me on the enclosure!

Somebody else offered GREAT enclosure advice in this very thread ... i was only summarizing


----------



## lycan

bikinpunk said:


> Sorry, Jorge, but since I can't reach him any other way...
> 
> Lycan, would you mind shooting me an email? I have a couple questions I'd like to kick your way about a few things.
> You have things disabled... probably for a reason. So, if you do'nt email me, I understand.
> 
> - Erin
> 
> Again, sorry, J. ummm... bump????.....


I fixed my PM's (at least for a while), so send me one. And then delete your private email from a public thread asap


----------



## n_olympios

I was thinking that you've gone so far as to reposition the handbrake and that it was the action of a complete mad man. :lol: 

Then I remembered that the auto CX7's have a footbrake. :blush:

For comparison, here's a photo of a manual one.


----------



## stereojnky

n_olympios said:


> I was thinking that you've gone so far as to reposition the handbrake and that it was the action of a complete mad man. :lol:
> 
> Then I remembered that the auto CX7's have a footbrake. :blush:


Well you can't really do tail whips with an auto so no need for a hand brake.


----------



## t3sn4f2

lycan said:


> no ... don't credit me on the enclosure!
> 
> Somebody else offered GREAT enclosure advice in this very thread ... i was only summarizing


Would decoupling the mid bass enclosure only be a good idea if it is mounted to a relatively flimsy sheet metal panel? What if it is anchored down to a frame rail or something else really solid? Would the decoupling, in that case, then be a bad idea since the enclosure will loose that solid surface to kick against (like leaving a sub to wabble around on the trunk floor versus bolting it to the frame)?


----------



## pankrok

stereojnky said:


> Well you can't really do tail whips with an auto so no need for a hand brake.


neither with manual transmission possible with this car.
(however when slippery you can just put pedal to the metal and swing the wheel ) (aaahh TCS off in this case :laugh:)


----------



## doitor

Thanks, guys.
Here's the basic idea of the front stage.










L3's and L1 Pro SE's at the far corners of the dash/a pillars.










If you look thru the hole, you can see the L8 baffle. So I'll have all the drivers in the same vertical plane.










L3's will be touching the firewall.
All of the apillars and dash will be covered with acoustic grill cloth, so you wont be able to see where the drivers are.
I should be able to mount them in the next couple of days.
Will post pics as soon as I do.

J.


----------



## BigRed

sweet!


----------



## tintbox

Right on. Looking good.


----------



## pankrok

comment
reflection from dashboard
reflection from windshield (you are going to refit windshield dont you  )


----------



## t3sn4f2

pankrok said:


> comment
> reflection from dashboard
> reflection from windshield (you are going to refit windshield dont you  )


waveguide?


----------



## doitor

t3sn4f2 said:


> waveguide?


Bingo.

J.


----------



## pankrok

want to see .
sometimes waveguides have a "bucket" effect on mids.
on the other hand horny shapes increase directiveness of the speaker which in our case is has only good effects
are you planning to put fabric inside the waveguide?


----------



## doitor

pankrok said:


> want to see .
> sometimes waveguides have a "bucket" effect on mids.
> on the other hand horny shapes increase directiveness of the speaker which in our case is has only good effects
> are you planning to put fabric inside the waveguide?


I did some listenings tests before doing this and I really liked the results.
I will also be modding the instrument cluster to get both sides more symetrical.
Little sneak peak.

Original:










Non Original










J.


----------



## DJSPANKY

doitor said:


> Bingo.
> 
> J.


Can't wait to see the wave guides!!! Keep up the great work and thanks for posting this install.

Perhaps I missed it- but what are you planning on doing for subs? Are you staying strictly with the 8's?


----------



## doitor

DJSPANKY said:


> Can't wait to see the wave guides!!! Keep up the great work and thanks for posting this install.
> 
> Perhaps I missed it- but what are you planning on doing for subs? Are you staying strictly with the 8's?


As far as subs goes I'm between several options.
13tw5's hidden under a false floor in the hatch or a couple of 15"'s in a big box against the seat firing to the rear.
I'll finish the frontstage first and do some test after that to decide.

J.


----------



## Andy Jones

^Build a wall with 20 12's. That's what you need.


----------



## doitor

Andy Jones said:


> ^Build a wall with 20 12's. That's what you need.


You read my mind, Mr. Jones.

J.


----------



## ErinH

I honestly wonder why you aren't employing a subwoofer up front under the dash. I mean, we all know you're just getting to that point anyway.


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> I honestly wonder why you aren't employing a subwoofer up front under the dash. I mean, we all know you're just getting to that point anyway.


That did cross my mind, but I would need to do a full dash rebuild.
Maybe for the next version.

J.


----------



## ErinH

who needs passenger airbag.


----------



## BigRed

bikinpunk said:


> who needs passenger airbag.


exactly


----------



## 02753102

lycan said:


> Sure, we want them as far to the left & right as possible. But if we have to sacrifice some width, there's a way to "electronically" move them to _virtual_ locations _wider_. A great technique, especially well-suited for _midbass_ (as opposed to _midrange_) drivers.
> 
> So, my conclusion is this : pick a location _somehwere_ to the left & right. A location that's not too fussy about aiming, but IS fussy about building a GREAT enclosure. If they're not as far "wide" as you would like, we can fix that with some electronic magic ... and no, i'm not talking about _time delay_ or EQ



share this technique please


----------



## ErinH

02753102 said:


> share this technique please


I'll x2 on that, as well.

I tried some things last night with my kick mounted midbasses and a tweeter up top.
Stage width shrunk, even with flipping polarity between the two mids.

Stage width with apillar mounted mids/tweeters are outside the car. Only myself and a friend tuned it like that, so no 'magic hands'. 

I haven't had a chance to really tune the 2-way setup, but I would be interested in hearing of your proposed methods before hand. 



*sorry Jorge if this is OT. I can move elsewhere if you'd like... but still be in Alabama. *


----------



## doitor

The only place I would put a sub in the front of the car would be dead center.
There's room in the dash for a 13tw5 on top of the dash facing the glass while keeping both airbags and A/C, but I would need to do a full new dash.
Maybe if I had another car or more free time.

J.


----------



## pankrok

sick!
waiting


----------



## phantomtides

doitor said:


> The only place I would put a sub in the front of the car would be dead center.
> There's room in the dash for a 13tw5 on top of the dash facing the glass while keeping both airbags and A/C, but I would need to do a full new dash.
> Maybe if I had another car or more free time.
> 
> J.


It's always disappointing when a guy doesn't have enough ambition.


----------



## doitor

phantomtides said:


> It's always disappointing when a guy doesn't have enough ambition.


LOL.
I'll be looking for pics of your install to measure your "ambition".

J.


----------



## tintbox

doitor said:


> LOL.
> I'll be looking for pics of your install to measure your "ambition".
> 
> J.


Waiting as well!


----------



## doitor

Just to make things clear, I'm NOT doing a sub in the dash.

J.


----------



## phantomtides

doitor said:


> Just to make things clear, I'm NOT doing a sub in the dash.
> 
> J.


I can barely figure out how to get a sub in my damn TRUNK. Ambition my rear! 8^)


----------



## n_olympios

stereojnky said:


> Well you can't really do tail whips with an auto so no need for a hand brake.


Sure you can. It depends on the car though. Mine's an auto and I can do it. 

Mine's a DSG though, so I may be cheating a bit. 

Edit: not that I'd try anything like that on a public road. :wacko:


----------



## lancewhitefield

Keep up the great work - I respect you for staying to your goals - Keep the car completly safe for your family - most important keeping this a daily driver -


----------



## BigRed

lancewhitefield said:


> Keep up the great work - I respect you for staying to your goals - Keep the car completly safe for your family - most important keeping this a daily driver -


he is keeping it safe....his wife can't touch the pedals with the seat extensions


----------



## doitor

lancewhitefield said:


> Keep up the great work - I respect you for staying to your goals - Keep the car completly safe for your family - most important keeping this a daily driver -


Thanks.
What started this version was to gain my hatch area back and it's morphed a bit, but the goals are still the same.
If this was only my "toy car", it wouldnt be street legal anymore.



BigRed said:


> he is keeping it safe....his wife can't touch the pedals with the seat extensions


I dont call those seat extensions.
I call those insurance.

J.


----------



## HondAudio

This kind of reminds me of an Acura Legend I saw under construction here in Phoenix back in the late 90s. It had all DynAudio speakers:

7" midbasses in the kicks, and they literally raised the floor to add airspace;

They reconstructed the dash to make it symmetrical [gauges in the middle, etc], and built kind of horn-shaped trays that extended to the front corners of the dash, *past the bottom edge of the windshield*, and into the engine compartment, where they put the 3" dome mid and 1" tweeter.

In the rear deck they put 2 ~13" subwoofers, crossed over from 40 Hz on down. The baffle was the rear deck, and it had an enclosure underneath in the trunk that was sealed, but by opening a flap, the subs would vent through an AP mat into the trunk.

The trunk was full of Linear Power amps, and they installed an actual air conditioning system for the trunk behind the right rear fender 

Oh, the signal - it was all Pioneer ODR.


----------



## doitor

Finally some progress on the frontstage.
First I hot glued, super glued the baffle in place after laser aiming it.
Forgot to take pics of my super duper advanced laser aiming device. :icon_cheesygrin: 
I'll take some later today and post them.










Then used some kitty hair to secure it in place.










Used a lot of wood sticks to fill the gap.




























The a lot more kitty hair fro strength.




























J.


----------



## doitor

Put the drivers in an took some pics from the drivers seat.





































I'll apply some filler today to smooth the "horn", and should be able to get the windshield in by tomorrow.

J


----------



## Tonyguy

Holy ****ing **** I'm loving this! This is gonna sound awesome!I wish I had a toy car that I could go to such lengths with...


----------



## azngotskills

Nice work Jorge. I was thinking about something very similar to this regarding your placement. With the way the placement is, are you limited to one-seat imaging or a compromise in two-seat imaging?


----------



## lancewhitefield

Thanks for keeping the posts up as a neewbie it shows what is possible if I keep working and learning with years of experience.


----------



## BigRed

your kids must love popsicles


----------



## doitor

Tonyguy said:


> Holy ****ing **** I'm loving this! This is gonna sound awesome!I wish I had a toy car that I could go to such lengths with...


I also wish I had a toy car.
This is my only car and daily driver.



azngotskills said:


> Nice work Jorge. I was thinking about something very similar to this regarding your placement. With the way the placement is, are you limited to one-seat imaging or a compromise in two-seat imaging?


I'm shooting for a two seat imaging car.
Between the seat rail extensions and how I angled the speakers it works.




lancewhitefield said:


> Thanks for keeping the posts up as a neewbie it shows what is possible if I keep working and learning with years of experience.


I dont consider myself a "veteran" by any means.
I'm more of a "tweaker".



BigRed said:


> your kids must love popsicles


They actually do, you funny man.

J.


----------



## Notloudenuf

He's got frickin speakers with frickin lazer beams on them!!!! lol [/Dr. Evil]

Staying tuned.....


----------



## don_chuwish

Man that's an ugly process. I'm sure it'll work out nice in the end but holy crap I could never slop stuff on like that. Can't wait to see the transformation to finished product.

- D


----------



## doitor

Notloudenuf said:


> He's got frickin speakers with frickin lazer beams on them!!!! lol [/Dr. Evil]
> 
> Staying tuned.....


LOL.




don_chuwish said:


> Man that's an ugly process. I'm sure it'll work out nice in the end but holy crap I could never slop stuff on like that. Can't wait to see the transformation to finished product.
> 
> - D


Lot's of steps involved to make anything look good.
That part is just to make it solid.
At the end, you wont be able to see any of the front stage drivers.

J.


----------



## CA4944

doitor said:


> The a lot more kitty hair *fro* strength.


You're not kidding about the 'fro strength!


----------



## MaXaZoR

Wow...This is going to be interesting... Why not just use fleece and then add FG and mat on top?


----------



## hugo23

Looks awesome Jorge, I'm sure you are going to have an impressive soundstage.


----------



## Andy Jones




----------



## doitor

MaXaZoR said:


> Wow...This is going to be interesting... Why not just use fleece and then add FG and mat on top?


There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Plus, I HATE resin.

J.


----------



## doitor

Andy Jones said:


>


Nice to see you smiling, Mr. Jones.

J.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

doitor said:


> There's more than one way to skin a cat.
> Plus, I HATE resin.
> 
> J.



you sound like my wife.....NO NO NO the resin stinks..do it in driveway, not the garage!!!!!


----------



## doitor

AVIDEDTR said:


> you sound like my wife.....NO NO NO the resin stinks..do it in driveway, not the garage!!!!!


LOL.
And she is right.

J.


----------



## JayinMI

AVIDEDTR said:


> you sound like my wife.....NO NO NO the resin stinks..do it in driveway, not the garage!!!!!


Doesn't she understand you live in Canada, and it's winter? You can't glass in the driveway...crazy woman.  You don't ask her to do scrapbooking or knitting in the driveway, do you? 

Jay


----------



## doitor

JayinMI said:


> Doesn't she understand you live in Canada, and it's winter? You can't glass in the driveway...crazy woman.  You don't ask her to do scrapbooking or knitting in the driveway, do you?
> 
> Jay


You dont know AVIDEDTR, Jay.
He's a bad, bad Canadian.

J.


----------



## AudioBob

You are more obsessed with this than I ever was!!! I took out a dash or two, but never the front glass. Your work looks excellent and I hope that your efforts are rewarded with the fruits of sonic nirvana.

Are you doing this to widen the soundstage???


----------



## doitor

AudioBob said:


> You are more obsessed with this than I ever was!!! I took out a dash or two, but never the front glass. Your work looks excellent and I hope that your efforts are rewarded with the fruits of sonic nirvana.
> 
> Are you doing this to widen the soundstage???


Thanks.
The main idea behind this front stage is to try and get the most I can out of this great platform.
With the seat rail extentions y get awesome pld's, but also I'll be pretty close at an equilateral triangle, so in theory imaging and staging should be pretty good.
I'll let you guys how it sound and should hit the lanes as soon as it's done and tuned.

J.


----------



## sydmonster

saw on HAT forum, liking this alot. Keep at it Jorge.


----------



## doitor

Last nights progress.
Managed to smooth the "horn" a bit using body filler.
Pics:





































Same on the other side.

J.


----------



## Menace Kustoms

What body filler are you using? It doesn't appear to be that hard.


----------



## MaXaZoR

I'd be using Kitty Hair, followed by Evercoat, followed by Rage Gold...how old is the stuff your working with?


----------



## doitor

Menace Kustoms said:


> What body filler are you using? It doesn't appear to be that hard.


It's a Dupont body filler I found locally.

J.


----------



## m3gunner

Menace Kustoms said:


> *It doesn't appear to be that hard.*


Damn, Jorge... I don't think I'd take that sort of abuse from anyone... 

Awesome work. Wish I had the time to do this type of stuff, but right now, I'm lucky to get any system installed.


----------



## doitor

MaXaZoR said:


> I'd be using Kitty Hair, followed by Evercoat, followed by Rage Gold...how old is the stuff your working with?


No idea on how old it is, but it will be smooth when I'm done with it.



m3gunner said:


> Damn, Jorge... I don't think I'd take that sort of abuse from anyone...


LOL.

J.


----------



## Andy Jones

sanding sucks ass. Sanding in a tight spot sucks even more. Nice job.


----------



## doitor

Andy Jones said:


> sanding sucks ass. Sanding in a tight spot sucks even more. Nice job.


That's exactly why I had the windshield removed.

J.


----------



## doitor

Finally got the amps in the rack.
Pics.



























































































J.


----------



## ErinH

good ol' all thread. 


Looks good man. Can't wait to see it all buttoned up with the cover on. :thumbsup:


----------



## Menace Kustoms

That's looking good. I wanna see it in the car too!


----------



## Ianaconi

Amazing work like always!


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> good ol' all thread.
> 
> Looks good man. Can't wait to see it all buttoned up with the cover on. :thumbsup:


LOL.
I'm waiting on the speaker wire to be able to hook it all up.
Ordered Canare Star Quad speaker cable to use the same line as the rca's.
I'll take it home tonight and take some pics.

J.


----------



## subwoofery

Impressive to say the least. Really impressive - looks good too but impressive  

Kelvin


----------



## nirschl

Looking nice Jorge! Looking forward to seeing this finished up. 



Oh and thanks for some added motivation to get my console crap rollin again...


----------



## Notloudenuf

It would be my luck that the amp in the middle would be the first one to have a problem with


----------



## rcurley55

doitor said:


> J.



Looks great, but unless you used lockwashers or loctite on those nuts in this photo, they are going to come loose and your amps will move around....Probably easier to fix now than later  You could also just fill the space on the threaded rod with something.

I like where this is going!


----------



## doitor

rcurley55 said:


> Looks great, but unless you used lockwashers or loctite on those nuts in this photo, they are going to come loose and your amps will move around....Probably easier to fix now than later  You could also just fill the space on the threaded rod with something.
> 
> I like where this is going!


Thanks, guys.
I'll put Loctite today.

J.


----------



## BigRed

I love the concept Jorge.....maybe another suggestion would be to put plastic or metal collars painted balck between the threaded areas of the amps?


----------



## doitor

BigRed said:


> I love the concept Jorge.....maybe another suggestion would be to put plastic or metal collars painted balck between the threaded areas of the amps?


For looks or to keep the amps in place?
There's about 1/8" between the nutz and 1/2" between amps.

J.


----------



## ErinH

doitor said:


> There's about 1/8" between the nutz
> J.


That's what she said.


----------



## Hextall 27

Here's what you need Jorge. Nylon bushings available at Lowe's. I bought these and then applied heat shrink to make a stacking kit for my Slash amps.


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> That's what she said.


She has small hands, that's all.

J.


----------



## ErinH

I think Jorge will be just fine with what he's got. He's compressing the amps between two nuts on threaded rod. He doesn't even have to torque that stuff down all the way and it'll be sufficient.

It may be a novel thought, but I just don't see the practicality of going any further than he already has. I mean, my car doesn't have lock tite or nylon nuts for every assembly and it's managed to stay together. Of course, it is a honda and they run their tolerances as close as one can get... but maybe those Mazda folks like a margin of ±5%.


----------



## doitor

Hextall 27 said:


> Here's what you need Jorge. Nylon bushings available at Lowe's. I bought these and then applied heat shrink to make a stacking kit for my Slash amps.


There's very little room to put more things in there.
Where do you want me to put those spacers?

J.


----------



## doitor

On a side note, the new amp rack loaded weights 30 pounds (14 kg).
The previous one with the 5 Slash amps and MDF weighted 110 pounds (50 kg).

J.


----------



## ErinH

HOLY CRAP!

Talk about weight savings, my man!


So, you are thinking of upgrading to the 1200/1 when it hits?
I saw a while back that it was coming, but don't know if I've seen an ETA for it.


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> HOLY CRAP!
> 
> Talk about weight savings, my man!
> 
> So, you are thinking of upgrading to the 1200/1 when it hits?
> I saw a while back that it was coming, but don't know if I've seen an ETA for it.


And now that smaller amount of weight is in the center of the car.
About the upgrade to the 1200/1, I dont know.
I think the 750/1 should do a good job for what I need, but on the other hand "there's never too much headroom".

J.


----------



## ErinH

doitor said:


> And now that smaller amount of weight is in the center of the car.
> About the upgrade to the 1200/1, I dont know.
> I think the 750/1 should do a good job for what I need, but on the other hand "there's never too much headroom".
> 
> J.


I understand. I actually have my subs dialed back A LOT, so I can't see the need for me to increase the power, either. But, then again.... lol


----------



## hugo23

doitor said:


> On a side note, the new amp rack loaded weights 30 pounds (14 kg).
> The previous one with the 5 Slash amps and MDF weighted 110 pounds (50 kg).
> 
> J.


Oh man, I love those amps, I really need to save some money


----------



## Andy Jones

you can use the nylon bushings to cover the screws between the amps. they won't serve any purpose other than preventing you from seeing the all-thread and nuts. 

It's a detail thing that may not matter if you can't see the all-thread anyway once it is in the center console.

I did the same thing as the poster above in my amp rack to hide the screws where they attach to the amp rack (the amps are spaced underneath for neon---that has NEVER been turned on). You could see the threads of the screws going into the rack. I covered the nylon bushings in heatshrink and put them around the threads under the amp. 

I can try and get a picture later if the above isn't clear.


----------



## ErinH

Well, going along with that, lowe's also sells the long nut versions for all thread.
Found in the same aisle. Rather than using spacers, you can use those and they serve a purpose as well.

Here's a sample:
Williams Form Engineering Corp. - #11 Grade 90 All-Thread Rebar











Or, you can buy the hex version of these.


----------



## doitor

Those look like a good option, Erin.
If I knew about those before building I might have used them.
I'll leave them as they are right now.

J.


----------



## ErinH

I don't blame you.

Don't you hate when people tell you how to do your install after you've done it?


----------



## doitor

Little safety feature added.
Started with a little panel which had the remote bass control form one of my first installs.
In the pic I already removed the knob.










Soldered wire to the switch and used red heatshrink/techflex as it's the 12v accesory wire










Soldered and heatshrinked to the car harness.




























Drilled the hole a bit bigger and put the switch.



















With the keys.










Back in the car.



















J.


----------



## tonym

very nice


----------



## Ianaconi

Amazing like always!


----------



## newtitan

so what does that knob do? cancel output to the 12V acc or something? confused?


----------



## yuri

x2 ^


----------



## AdamTaylor

probably so he can disable his system if someone else is driving it


----------



## doitor

newtitan said:


> so what does that knob do? cancel output to the 12V acc or something? confused?


 That's exactly what it does.
No way to turn on the HU/system if the switch is in the off position.
Call it "valet switch", "wife's switch", "I dont like you switch", which ever fits the bill.

J.


----------



## fastlane

doitor said:


> That's exactly what it does.
> No way to turn on the HU/system if the switch is in the off position.
> Call it "valet switch", "wife's switch", "I dont like you switch", which ever fits the bill.
> 
> J.


ROTF. I have that exact switch installed in my theater room. It's called an MX3000.


----------



## bbfoto

Looking Great, J! I've been away for a while so I had lots of catching up to do, lol. Good chit.

Very good idea with the key switch. :thumbsup: I don't smoke so I've used the cigerette lighter knob in my cars and modified them to make my "valet" switches. I like yours though because it's a bit more absolute.

Will be watching what comes next...


----------



## jjbeenken

doitor said:


> It's a Dupont body filler I found locally.
> 
> J.


Made me hungry for peanutbutter:smartass::smartass:


----------



## doitor

Yesterdays progress.
Amp rack is in the car and got the speaker wire in to cut to lenght.










Those labels ARE NOT staying and are just for temporary ID.










Check out how I'll have 3 "levels" of wiring. From top to bottom, speaker, rca and power/ground.










Pics of the rack in place.




























J.


----------



## maxxis

I knew the HD amps were small in size but I had not idea they were that small.

WOW.


----------



## HondAudio

I guess I missed the point of this update - I saw that you're saving a lot of weight, and you're shortening the wire lengths, that's always good...

Is this just to have your trunk back? Are you planning on putting more/bigger subs back there?


----------



## doitor

HondAudio said:


> I guess I missed the point of this update - I saw that you're saving a lot of weight, and you're shortening the wire lengths, that's always good...
> 
> Is this just to have your trunk back? Are you planning on putting more/bigger subs back there?


 The point for this update is to get the best I can out of the platform (putting drivers as far and wide as possible), while retaining daily use of the car (which I didnt had with a trunk full of amps/subs) and keep it all as stealth as possible (the only visible upgrade will be the HU).
As far as subs goes, the plan is to put two JL Audio 13tw5's in the hatch.

J.


----------



## JayinMI

Where are you going to hide those? Cut out the floor to keep it below the stock floor level? 

Jay


----------



## tonym

nice with the bass knob


----------



## subwoofery

On the roof 

Kelvin


----------



## trebor

subwoofery said:


> On the roof
> 
> Kelvin


Blends better if the sub stage is playing overhead to match the front stage above the dash.


----------



## n_olympios

I can see the future. The next upgrade will probably be leather upholstery.


----------



## doitor

JayinMI said:


> Where are you going to hide those? Cut out the floor to keep it below the stock floor level?
> 
> Jay


Hide what, the amps?
If that's what your asking, check out a couple of pages back for the custom center console.

J.


----------



## doitor

n_olympios said:


> I can see the future. The next upgrade will probably be leather upholstery.


You need to change the batteries on your crystal ball, Nick.
I dont like leather.

J.


----------



## jonnyanalog

doitor said:


> Hide what, the amps?
> If that's what your asking, check out a couple of pages back for the custom center console.
> 
> J.


I think he means the subs.


----------



## pankrok

he is confused :
white CX7 no leather
dark CX7 with leather


----------



## n_olympios

doitor said:


> You need to change the batteries on your crystal ball, Nick.
> I dont like leather.
> 
> J.


Well at least give it a good clean then.  

You don't like leather as it deflects sound too much?


----------



## doitor

jonnyanalog said:


> I think he means the subs.


True, I read that post way to fast.
I have two options to hide the subs.
a) Slim box against the rear seats with a carpeted panel to hide them.
b) Under a false floor on the hatch. The problem with this approach is that I would need to raise the floor to get clearance.

I'll decide which one soon.

J.


----------



## doitor

n_olympios said:


> Well at least give it a good clean then.
> You don't like leather as it deflects sound too much?


I'll clean it as soon as I finish the install.
I dont like leather because of the weather we have here.
My car spends all day garaged, but 40 C (over 100 F) days in the summer and leather seats are NOT a good combo.

J.


----------



## jonnyanalog

doitor said:


> True, I read that post way to fast.
> I have two options to hide the subs.
> a) Slim box against the rear seats with a carpeted panel to hide them.
> b) Under a false floor on the hatch. The problem with this approach is that I would need to raise the floor to get clearance.
> 
> I'll decide which one soon.
> 
> J.


What about in the side panels of the cargo area? Is that an option? If not, I think option B would be cool as it would be less noticeable upon first glance and really play upon the staelthiness of your install.


----------



## doitor

jonnyanalog said:


> What about in the side panels of the cargo area? Is that an option? If not, I think option B would be cool as it would be less noticeable upon first glance and really play upon the staelthiness of your install.


That was one of my first options, but I dont want to cut any panels.
I'm also going to try a single sub in a spare tire FG enclosure.

J.


----------



## HondAudio

doitor said:


> True, I read that post way to fast.
> I have two options to hide the subs.
> a) Slim box against the rear seats with a carpeted panel to hide them.
> b) Under a false floor on the hatch. The problem with this approach is that I would need to raise the floor to get clearance.
> 
> I'll decide which one soon.
> 
> J.


Cut out the floor and have them vented to the outside through AP mats


----------



## doitor

Managed to work on the power/ground wiring of the rack yesterday.

Re-routed the power wire.




























Cut the power wire to lenght and added the ground wire.
Final lenght of the power wire: a bit under 5 feet.
Final lenght of the ground wire: 10 inches.
Both 0 gauge.





































4 gauge power/ground wire to each amp.

I need to get more techflex and heatshrink to properly terminate them.

J.


----------



## Andy Jones

^you also need a grommet where it passes through the seat rail. 


and possibly where it goes between the metal amp rack and the transmission tunnel--since technically it it passing "through" metal at that point . That one is going to be less than fun.


Looking good


----------



## doitor

Andy Jones said:


> ^you also need a grommet where it passes through the seat rail.
> 
> and possibly where it goes between the metal amp rack and the transmission tunnel--since technically it it passing "through" metal at that point . That one is going to be less than fun.
> 
> 
> Looking good


Thanks, Andy.
Yeah, I know about that.
Those pics are not the final wiring.
Still a lot of things to do.

J.


----------



## HondAudio

I was going to mention something about how your leads from the distribution block are all the same color, but it looks like you've already gotten them sleeved to differentiate between positive and negative.


----------



## doitor

Felipe came over this past weekend and we managed to get a bunch of work done.
Finished wiring the rack.





































Ran speaker wires.














































J.


----------



## doitor

Console is almost done.



























































































J.


----------



## doitor

A lot of work in the trunk also.


















































































J.


----------



## doitor

J.


----------



## IBcivic

very nice!!!


----------



## ErinH

DUDE!
WOW!

Sick build. Love the center console!


----------



## lycan

holy cow that's looking nice!


----------



## Niebur3

Very nice build!!!


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Jorge - THAT'S Awesome


----------



## fish

Very nice. I thought you were using 2 13TW5's? I'd have to say the amps in the console is my favorite part so far.


----------



## honza440

splendid


----------



## doitor

Thanks guys.



fish said:


> Very nice. I thought you were using 2 13TW5's? I'd have to say the amps in the console is my favorite part so far.


 That was the original plan (and I have two of them), but dedided to try it this way to have it 100% stealth and have full use of my trunk.
The trunk will be fully carpeted and will fully hide the gear.
Once it's done, the only sign of an aftermaket system will be the HU.
You wont be able to see the rest.

J.


----------



## pankrok

i love it more !!


----------



## BigRed

wow....nice....your installer has mad skillz!!


----------



## twing

Very nice Job, keep the pics coming! saludos


----------



## indpowr

WOw, nice


----------



## fit_tuner

wow, that looks great! good job!


----------



## nirschl

Looking great, Jorge! Very classy


----------



## sydmonster

very classy & very stealth indeed doitor! Great work. Have you listened to it yet?


----------



## doitor

sydmonster said:


> very classy & very stealth indeed doitor! Great work. Have you listened to it yet?


 Thanks, guys.
She's still not singing.
It's all wired but need to finish the dash first to protect the speakers from the sun.
I'm still part of Team No Sound.

J.


----------



## gymrat2005

Nice Jorge! I haven't checked this thread in awhile...you've been busy!. Looks good man, keep it up


----------



## JayinMI

I was wondering something...
I understand the opening at the back of the console so you can access the amp control panel, but the opening on top shows the wiring...I assume you did this for a reason, since everything you've done seems pretty well planned out.
The amps sit back in the opening. Was the intent to allow access to the wires/rca's, or was there some other idea at work here?

Loving it.

Jay


----------



## HiVi Guy

Very nice. I'm loving the mids and tweeters in the corners of the dash.

Jason


----------



## doitor

JayinMI said:


> I was wondering something...
> I understand the opening at the back of the console so you can access the amp control panel, but the opening on top shows the wiring...I assume you did this for a reason, since everything you've done seems pretty well planned out.
> The amps sit back in the opening. Was the intent to allow access to the wires/rca's, or was there some other idea at work here?
> 
> Loving it.
> 
> Jay


The hole on top will have a panel to put my iPhone/iPod flush while charging it and controlling it from the hu.
I'm also adding the Bluetooth module.
That part will come off and also the entire black piece pops off to have easy access to all the wiring.
The black part will have a fan to suck fresh air for the amps and the rear parts will have grill material to allow hot air to get out.

J.


----------



## Niebur3

Can you do more pics of the center console?


----------



## azngotskills

Nice work Jorge. One question though, how do you plan to get the spare out of/when needed? Uninstall the sub, unscrew the enclosure, then remove all the paneling?


----------



## doitor

Niebur3 said:


> Can you do more pics of the center console?


You got pm.



azngotskills said:


> Nice work Jorge. One question though, how do you plan to get the spare out of/when needed? Uninstall the sub, unscrew the enclosure, then remove all the paneling?


Yep.
The top carpeted part will have hinges, so that lifts up.
The panel with the aluminum logos just pops out. It's 1/2" MDF.
Unscrew the sub. 8 hex screws.
The stock bolt holds down the sub enclosure and the spare tire.
I'll put a cordless drill/impact wrench on the left side bin to make it easier, along with spare fuses and all the tools needed to service the system.
Even without the power tools, it takes about 5 minutes to take the spare out.
Maybe less.

J.


----------



## barracuda777

Very nice build George and a great job from Felipe. I simply love this center console
Keep it that way


----------



## sydmonster

doitor said:


> Thanks, guys.
> She's still not singing.
> It's all wired but need to finish the dash first to protect the speakers from the sun.
> I'm still part of Team No Sound.
> 
> J.


well... Jorge, we can't hear it either & 90% of us on here probably wont ever either. *sigh* 
Oh the net, its such a tease.

Keep up this great work though, this version of the install is just in a higher class now.


----------



## foosman

Looks like ****, tear it all out and start over. Lol


----------



## doitor

foosman said:


> Looks like ****, tear it all out and start over. Lol


That's what I'm doing right now.
Lol.
J/K

@syd: Thank man. This should be the last version of the system in the Mazda, so I wanted it to be the best.

J.


----------



## th3disturbed1

When it's done, you should put up all the pictures in one place so I have a reference on greatness :laugh:


----------



## IBcivic

^^^^

....j/k


----------



## th3disturbed1

I've looked on this website for ideas on where to hide it while still keeping a spare and space in my trunk.. the HD's in the center console are a stroke of genious IMO


----------



## nirschl

Hi Jorge,

Was curious as to what you ended up with cubic feet wise in the enclosure? 

Looks really great! 

Cheers,

Pete


----------



## doitor

nirschl said:


> Hi Jorge,
> 
> Was curious as to what you ended up with cubic feet wise in the enclosure?
> 
> Looks really great!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Pete


Hi, Pete.
It's pretty close to what JL asks for (0.8 cubic feet).

J.


----------



## el_chupo_

Looks great Jorge!


----------



## BigRed

doitor said:


> That's what I'm doing right now.
> Lol.
> J/K
> 
> @syd: Thank man. *This should be the last version of the system in the Mazda*, so I wanted it to be the best.
> 
> J.


*cough* bulls%it *cough*


----------



## doitor

BigRed said:


> *cough* bulls%it *cough*


You know me all too well, my friend.
The reason I posted that is because I've been looking at new cars.
I'm not in a rush to sell the Mazda, but it's the last big overhaul in it.

J.


----------



## JayinMI

Eh, pass it on to the wife and get that new 7 series 

Jay


----------



## DAT

J,

Very nice work and love the new install.


----------



## doitor

Had a couple of "wife/kids free" minutes last night so started working on the dash grills.
I cut the top part of the dash in 3 pieces. The center part will be permanent in the car and the lateral ones are going to be modded and removable.
So here's the passenger side of the top part of the dash taped.



















Here's what's left of it after a close encounter with a jigsaw and a Dremel.



















Got some hex shaped aluminum grill and shaped it to fit.




























Test fit.




























That's all I was able to do last night.
I'll get this finished Sunday.

J.


----------



## ErinH

lookin' good, man!


----------



## AVIDEDTR

looks flippin great Jorge.


----------



## Brian_smith06

dude you have holes in it. are you porting your dash


----------



## sydmonster

Top work Jorge! chingon!

Any more fotos of the tweet/mid in the dash?


----------



## doitor

sydmonster said:


> Top work Jorge! chingon!
> 
> Any more fotos of the tweet/mid in the dash?


LOL.
Tweets/Mid's still not in the car.
Wanted to get the dash done first.
And talking about that.
More work done on the dash.










The original idea was to only mod the side parts, but decided to also do the center so that they all look the same. Plus I'll add some foam under the grills to tame down reflections.



















Wont waste your time with pics of how I did the other side, but this is how it looked when done.




























Some black paint.










This is what I ended up with.




























J.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

SICK dude SICK!!!


----------



## jonnyanalog

That looks really...... stock. 
When your done its gonna look like any other CX-7...... and thats INCREDIBLE!!!!
great work Jorge HATS off to you!


----------



## CRD

Awesome work Doitor, I have been investing all I get on my business but I cant wait to work on my cx-7 again, it have been almost a year that my cx7 doesnt have a radio on it. I like how the center console took shape , very nice.

I will hit you on the messenger later on to ask you some questions.

Carlos


----------



## doitor

jonnyanalog said:


> That looks really...... stock.
> When your done its gonna look like any other CX-7...... and thats INCREDIBLE!!!!
> great work Jorge HATS off to you!


 That's exactly the plan.
The only thing that will look different from the stock car after I'm done will be the HU, while still having a full blown system.

J.


----------



## doitor

Top part of the dash is almost done.
Covered in grill cloth with the dashmat on top.
Need to clean and iron the dashmat but you get an idea of how it's going to look when done.





































J.


----------



## CRD

to tell you the truth I never like it how dash mats looks on cars, in my opinion it would look much better without the mat.


----------



## BigRed

Can you show a pic without the dashmat?


----------



## doitor

BigRed said:


> Can you show a pic without the dashmat?


I can, but I wont just because you asked.



















J.


----------



## CRD

Looks much better  , still looks stock. Why do you use the dash mat?


----------



## n_olympios

Early reflections.


----------



## doitor

CRD said:


> Looks much better  , still looks stock. Why do you use the dash mat?


Like Nick mentioned, it helps with reflections of high frequencies.
In the previous versions it had a very noticeable difference in the sound.
Need to get it working to listeng what it does in this one.

J.


----------



## BigRed

are you asking the mid to play thru the dashmat?


----------



## doitor

BigRed said:


> are you asking the mid to play thru the dashmat?


 Yes, for regular driving.
No, for critical listening.
The dashmat is not thick enough to absorb a lot, but thick enough to give a bit of extra protection to the speakers from the elements.
Also notice how the tweeters which will play frequencies easily absorbed by the dashmat, will not be covered by it. 

J.


----------



## n_olympios

Hmmm. I think you'll find that the mid frequencies are also influenced in a large degree by the dashmat, if it covers the mid drivers. Either way though, it's not like it's something difficult to remove.


----------



## simplicityinsound

okay, so when are you coming up to norcal so i can check this thing out! awesome!

b


----------



## doitor

simplicityinsound said:


> okay, so when are you coming up to norcal so i can check this thing out! awesome!
> 
> b


Thanks, Bing.
According to yahoo maps we are 1975 miles aparts.
How about meeting half way?

J.


----------



## doitor

n_olympios said:


> Hmmm. I think you'll find that the mid frequencies are also influenced in a large degree by the dashmat, if it covers the mid drivers. Either way though, it's not like it's something difficult to remove.


 I'll throw the RTA in there to measure exactly what different types of dashmat do to the sound.
I have the Original, Ultimate and Signature series DashMat.
But first, I have to get it to work.

J.


----------



## doitor

She's alive!!!!!!!
I officially resign as Captain of Team No Sound.
Still a lot of cosmetic work to do, but at least she's playing music.
Put some L1v1's in there cause I didnt want to blow up the L1 Pro SE's if anything happend.
Did T/A and initial X-over settings and I like what I hear.

J.


----------



## doitor

J.


----------



## trebor

Way to go Jorge, I can't wait to hear this thing!

Are there any initial impressions that you'd be willing to share?


----------



## quality_sound

DashMat will tell you all of their dashmats are sonically transparent. I'm just sayin'.


----------



## doitor

trebor said:


> Way to go Jorge, I can't wait to hear this thing!
> 
> Are there any initial impressions that you'd be willing to share?


Any time, buddy.
As far as the initial impression, I'll sume it up: 
LOL.
Started with x-over.

High: 6.3 khz and up
Mid: 315-6.3 khz
Low: 63- 315 hz
Sub: 63 and down.

All with 24 db slopes.
T/A with a tape measure (the P-01 takes cm).
Level setting by ear.
The most impressive thing so far is stage depth and the strong center.
It has a lot of potential.



quality_sound said:


> DashMat will tell you all of their dashmats are sonically transparent. I'm just sayin'.


 No dashmat on the video, but it's clear the original one does block the high frequencies of the midrange.
Not enough that it really matters when driving, but very noticeable when doing dome critinal listening.
I plan to put an RTA on it to measure the difference.

J.


----------



## quality_sound

Oh I know. I use one for the same reason. I just get a kick out of them saying that.


----------



## BlueAc

doitor said:


> J.


Sounds good even coming thru my laptop speakers... :laugh:


----------



## sydmonster

LORVVVIT!!


----------



## doitor

I'll paypal $0.01 Mexican Pesos to the first one to point out the biggest difference in the next video from the previous one.
And dont read the video's title you cheaters.






J.


----------



## n_olympios

You put another cd in. 

Keep the change.


----------



## DAT

L1 Pro Se's installed 



HEHEHE I gotta Pm you later tonight anyway... your one of the classy guys on Team Hybrid...


----------



## RMAT

se tweets


----------



## trebor

Sounds identical, no change!


----------



## IBcivic

less hairy forearm exposure


----------



## doitor

n_olympios said:


> You put another cd in.


True, but not the answer I'm looking for.
Keep participating.




DAT said:


> L1 Pro Se's installed


Ding, Ding, Ding.
We have a winner.
You can come pic your price up at my office on bussiness hours with a valid id.



RMAT said:


> se tweets


You are right, but late.
Sorry, no consolation prices.



trebor said:


> Sounds identical, no change!


No, Sir it doesnt.



amitaF said:


> less hairy forearm exposure


This reply deserves a consolation price.
But sorry, there arent any.

J.


----------



## mosoto

Doiter, What made you chose the Canare cable over say Gepco or Mogami multi channel?


----------



## Wonway

doitor said:


> I'll paypal $0.01 Mexican Pesos to the first one to point out the biggest difference in the next video from the previous one.
> And dont read the video's title you cheaters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J.


You replaced the remote batteries???

Edit: I saw I alraeady lost. I was sure I had the winiing answer this time. I will try harder next time


----------



## doitor

Quick update.
Pioneer P01 out.
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT and JBL MS-8 in.
I had some time to play yesterday, so I decided to shoehorn a 6.5" coaxial in the center of the dash.
I got an Imagine 6.5" comp set and mounted it coax style.
Here are some pics of the process.

The Bose equiped cx-7 has a 3" mid in there, along with a display for the stock radio, AC and airbag.










Screen out and the I6.5" looking at it's new home.










Cutting some plastic










Speaker fits just fine










Quick Listening test before install.










Baffle done










After some paint.










Speaker in.




























J.


----------



## DAT

Sweet Jorge !

you always make things look so easy.


----------



## derickveliz

Awesome!

muy bien Jorge!


----------



## TREETOP

Dang, all that work for the custom P01 RCA harness, just to pull it. 
Did you have complaints with the P01 setup, or are you switching to the MS-8 just because?


----------



## doitor

TREETOP said:


> Dang, all that work for the custom P01 RCA harness, just to pull it.
> Did you have complaints with the P01 setup, or are you switching to the MS-8 just because?


 The harness is right here if you want it.
No complaints about the P01.
It's an amazing piece and it would still be in the Mazda if the MS-8 wasnt on the market.
I'm just a car audio tech junkie.

J.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

doitor said:


> I'm just a car audio tech junkie.
> 
> J.


More like a junkie


----------



## n_olympios

Well he must have access to various drugs anyway.


----------



## doitor

Started on the rear fill yesterday, but couldnt do a lot.

Routered some rings.










Made a little laser aiming contraption.










Once I got them firing where I wanted, I glued them in place on the D pillars.




























Started to glue some cloth but the general (aka. my wife) cut the fun short.










That was all I could do yesterday.
Should be able to get this done this week.

J.


----------



## DAT

Very Impressive work as always....


----------



## 12v Electronics

Laser aiming rears. I thought I would never see the day. :disappointed:

Nice work as usual!


----------



## BigRed

loooookinnnng gooooood


----------



## n_olympios

Hehe, this time I'm ahead of you.  Only I don't have photo proof. :mean:


----------



## aquafire

This is so sick! Very nice work here. Keep pics coming!!!


----------



## doitor

Not much, but here's yesterdays progress.

Added some fiberglass mat.










Once dry, did a quick test fit.



















Added fiberglass reinforced body filler/resin on the back.










Put some body filler and sanded some.



















Was going to hook them up yesterday until I found out I didnt had any speaker cable. :shock: 
Will get some today to try them before the finishing touches.

J.


----------



## CRD

doitor said:


> I'll paypal $0.01 Mexican Pesos to the first one to point out the biggest difference in the next video from the previous one.
> And dont read the video's title you cheaters.
> 
> 
> J.


0.01 Mexican pesos = 0.0008 US dollars .......................


----------



## sydmonster

doitor said:


> ....until I found out I didnt had any speaker cable...
> 
> J.


Yup... not sure what to think now. The worlds gone mad!


----------



## doitor

Pods in for a little audition before finishing.
Should be able to do some critical listening tonight and report back.




























J.


----------



## hugo23

I'll be waiting for that report


----------



## ErinH

flippin' awesome, Jorge.
Makes me wish I had an SUV.


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> flippin' awesome, Jorge.
> Makes me wish I had an SUV.


And I wish I had a sedan to try IB subs.
Want to trade?

J.


----------



## ErinH

at least you don't have to fight resonance because of the wall. suv = free spl. I'm still jealous. lol.


----------



## doitor

Things that got my attention after the first critical listening session.

a) Bigger sound stage. Live tracks rawk, but it's noticeable on every track.
b) Sense of envelopment. Rear fill "adds the room" and makes you fill in a much bigger place.
c) Imaging. Rear fill helped "lock" images in place. Much more focused than before.
d) Not localizable. Even knowing the speaker where there, I couldnt tell.

Overall it was a pretty big improvement.

J.


----------



## pankrok

nice inprovement
you put me in bad thoughts now...


----------



## ErinH

*jealous*


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> *jealous*


(inside joke)

Do you think Arnold would be jealous of Danny?
Guess that puts things into perspective.

J.


----------



## hugo23

Nice Jorge 

How did you connect the front left and right? did you use passive XO's?

Saludos.


----------



## doitor

hugo23 said:


> Nice Jorge
> How did you connect the front left and right? did you use passive XO's?
> Saludos.


I'm using two ways up front right now.

Ch. 1: Front Left High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts
Ch. 2: Rear Left. L4. 150 watts
Ch. 3: Front Left Low. L8. 300 watts
Ch. 4: Front Right High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts.
Ch. 5: Rear Right. L4. 150 watts.
Ch. 6: Front Right Low. L8. 300 watts.
Ch. 7: Sub. JL 13tw5. 750 watts.
Ch. 8: Center. Imagine 6. 20 watts.

J.


----------



## hugo23

doitor said:


> I'm using two ways up front right now.
> 
> Ch. 1: Front Left High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts
> Ch. 2: Rear Left. L4. 150 watts
> Ch. 3: Front Left Low. L8. 300 watts
> Ch. 4: Front Right High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts.
> Ch. 5: Rear Right. L4. 150 watts.
> Ch. 6: Front Right Low. L8. 300 watts.
> Ch. 7: Sub. JL 13tw5. 750 watts.
> Ch. 8: Center. Imagine 6. 20 watts.
> 
> J.


Oh I see, I though you were going to use an imagine set for the rear fill.


----------



## doitor

hugo23 said:


> Oh I see, I though you were going to use an imagine set for the rear fill.


That's the plan, but the Imagine 5 is still not on the market and the 6.5" version is too big for the pillars.

J.


----------



## JayinMI

doitor said:


> (inside joke)
> 
> Do you think Arnold would be jealous of Danny?
> Guess that puts things into perspective.
> 
> J.


A reference to Twins? 

Jay


----------



## mitchyz250f

Doitor, I thought Andy wanted a lot of power to the center, more than the front sides in fact. Is that right or did I confuse myself reading the that giant MS-8 thread?


----------



## Brian_smith06

doitor said:


> I'm using two ways up front right now.
> 
> Ch. 1: Front Left High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts
> Ch. 2: Rear Left. L4. 150 watts
> Ch. 3: Front Left Low. L8. 300 watts
> Ch. 4: Front Right High. L1 Pro SE. 150 watts.
> Ch. 5: Rear Right. L4. 150 watts.
> Ch. 6: Front Right Low. L8. 300 watts.
> Ch. 7: Sub. JL 13tw5. 750 watts.
> Ch. 8: Center. Imagine 6. 20 watts.
> 
> J.


So you are only running a 2 way front stage now? The L8's and the L1's? Center channel aside. Or did you just put your L4's in the rear for the time being? I havent followed your build for a while :blush:


----------



## doitor

mitchyz250f said:


> Doitor, I thought Andy wanted a lot of power to the center, more than the front sides in fact. Is that right or did I confuse myself reading the that giant MS-8 thread?


The Imagine 6 is more sensitive/efficient than the Legatias.
The power it's getting is enough to keep up with the system as long as I keep the gains all the way down.
Don't want to put an extra amp.

J.


----------



## doitor

Brian_smith06 said:


> So you are only running a 2 way front stage now? The L8's and the L1's? Center channel aside. Or did you just put your L4's in the rear for the time being? I havent followed your build for a while :blush:


That's right.
Two way front + center + rear fill + sub

J.


----------



## Niebur3

So, you like the 2-way front + rear fill better the a 3-way front with no rear fill?


----------



## doitor

Niebur3 said:


> So, you like the 2-way front + rear fill better the a 3-way front with no rear fill?


Just add the center and you got it right.

J.


----------



## doitor

Since I ran out of channels with the MS-8, I got some passives to play.
HAT Legatia L2x passives. Bi-amp capable. 3 attenuation levels on the tweeter.
I think I'll have to change the title of the thread to "Doitor's 2011 Setup".





































J.


----------



## ErinH

as cheesy as they look, I like push terminals. 
not on speakers though (they take up too much room).


----------



## redsun

really impressive. I'm glad to see someone using very little power (ms8 only) to power the center channel with a really efficient speaker. Get back to work!!


----------



## Brian_smith06

bikinpunk said:


> as cheesy as they look, I like push terminals.
> not on speakers though (they take up too much room).



I believe i recall an L8 install on your part that had those break off. Am I correct? because im picking up some humor I believe??????


----------



## ErinH

no, that's exactly why I don't like them. in a tight install, they make things a PITA. I'd say that even if I had been an idiot.


----------



## Brian_smith06

Yeah I like the idea of them(who doesnt love easy) however, yeah they are a pain in the @$$ in a small area


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> I'd say that even if I had been an idiot.


 Do you really need more proof, Danny.
Arnold (me), measures before installing.

J.


----------



## ErinH

that's what she said.


----------



## thehatedguy

Up until this week, I had every speaker minus the sub on MS-8 power.

But I jumped up in power nearly 10x over the what the MS-8 has in it...same speakers.



redsun said:


> really impressive. I'm glad to see someone using very little power (ms8 only) to power the center channel with a really efficient speaker. Get back to work!!


----------



## doitor

Got the passives in yesterday with super duper neat wiring. 










Crossover points used:

Sub: 60 hz down (MB Quart PWE 352 powered off the 750/1)
Front Low: 60-400 hz (HAT L8 powered off the bridged rear channels of a 600/4)
Front High: 400 and up (HAT L3 and L1 Pro SE with passives, powered off the front right channel of a 600/4)
Center: 60 hz and up (Imagine 6 in coaxial mode, powered off the MS-8)
Rears: 100 and up (HAT L4's, powered off the front left channel off a 600/4)

All with 24 db pero octave slopes

J.


----------



## RattyMcClelland

How much info is comming from the centre channel as opposed to the front sides? I may use an L2x crossover for the centre channel with 2 L3s and a HAT tweeter.


----------



## estione

RattyMcClelland said:


> How much info is comming from the centre channel as opposed to the front sides? I may use an L2x crossover for the centre channel with 2 L3s and a HAT tweeter.


Are you going 3/way now?


----------



## RattyMcClelland

estione said:


> Are you going 3/way now?


No...2way active on the front sides but i need to make a centre channel with my limited space for a Logic7 setup from an MS8. Just ideas ATM.


----------



## CraigE

Doiter, nice looking passives. 
Do the passives have 24db slopes ?
What is the X-over point ? 
The passives are for 4ohm drivers I take it.

I couldn't find specs for the X-overs on the Hybrid site.

I think you're going to really like your set-up with the 3-way fronts, ctr, sides/rears and sub.
Looking forward to your comments.

Craig


----------



## doitor

RattyMcClelland said:


> How much info is comming from the centre channel as opposed to the front sides? I may use an L2x crossover for the centre channel with 2 L3s and a HAT tweeter.


 Wanted to test this before answering. 
Since the center is powered off the MS-8 and the rest of the speakers are running off the HD's, I disconnected all the speakers rom the HD's by removing the speaker blocks so that only the center was playing.
I did this on my lunch break.
Plenty of info is comming from the center.
The stage colapses when the rest of the speakers are not playing, but there's enough info there to not "miss" the rest.
I then added only the L8's back into the equation and finally added the front mid/tweet and the rear fill (since those are powered of the same speaker block).
Stage width/depth came back.

J.


----------



## doitor

CraigE said:


> Doiter, nice looking passives.
> Do the passives have 24db slopes ?
> What is the X-over point ?
> The passives are for 4ohm drivers I take it.
> 
> I couldn't find specs for the X-overs on the Hybrid site.
> 
> I think you're going to really like your set-up with the 3-way fronts, ctr, sides/rears and sub.
> Looking forward to your comments.
> 
> Craig


 Ihavent found the specs on the HAT site either, but the x-over points seems to be around 5 khz.
Just sent and email to Scott asking those questions.
I'll get back to you as soon as I know.
And I really like the difference the 3 way front made.
I'll add more comments on that later after more listening.

J.


----------



## RattyMcClelland

doitor said:


> Plenty of info is comming from the center.
> 
> J.


Good to know. im just worried that not being able to fit a speaker big enough to drop below 100hz (if that) will effect the centre channel. Clarus 5 3/4" may be possible. We will see.

You eventually going for Imagine 5 3/4" in the rear? Again not sure how much frequency is played from the rear.

And you prefer this setup compared to your old comp winning setup.


----------



## doitor

RattyMcClelland said:


> Good to know. im just worried that not being able to fit a speaker big enough to drop below 100hz (if that) will effect the centre channel. Clarus 5 3/4" may be possible. We will see.
> 
> You eventually going for Imagine 5 3/4" in the rear? Again not sure how much frequency is played from the rear.
> 
> And you prefer this setup compared to your old comp winning setup.


 From what I've heard, the low stuff that the center wont play is sent to the sides that can.
I could test that if you are interested to know.
I could re-run the calibration and HP the center at a higher cut and compare to the lower cut.
The L4's are doing a great job at the rear, but might give the Imagine 5's a shot once those come out.
The rears are playiing from 100 hz and up. You cant select a low pass on the rear channels, but according to Andy W. it needs to play up to 10 khz and the L4's can.
There are pro's and con's to each setup, but in general I do prefer this version.
I'm still going to fool around with it to see/hear it's maximum potential.

J.


----------



## mitchyz250f

I would be interested in the results of that experiment.


----------



## mobeious

so ur runnin the L8's mono?


----------



## BigRed

CraigE said:


> Doiter, nice looking passives.
> Do the passives have 24db slopes ?
> What is the X-over point ?
> The passives are for 4ohm drivers I take it.
> 
> I couldn't find specs for the X-overs on the Hybrid site.
> 
> I think you're going to really like your set-up with the 3-way fronts, ctr, sides/rears and sub.
> Looking forward to your comments.
> 
> Craig


12db at 5k


----------



## doitor

mitchyz250f said:


> I would be interested in the results of that experiment.


I'll try it and report back.



mobeious said:


> so ur runnin the L8's mono?


No. 
Running them in stereo off outputs 3 and 6 from the MS-8 then into the bridged rear channels of two separate HD 600/4's for around 300 watts RMS each.

J.


----------



## doitor

BigRed said:


> 12db at 5k


That's the Legatia or the Clarus?
If that's the point, it seems like my ears are getting better.

J.


----------



## BigRed

L2X has a unity crossover point of 5k

the clarus crossover is 5k on the tweeter and 5700 on the mid.

Jorge, your ears get better as the wallet gets thinner


----------



## thehatedguy

**** I must be able to hear an ant fart at 500 yards then...lol.


----------



## RattyMcClelland

Yer do please see how it sounds with the centre at say 100-150hz high passed.
In the meantime im going to see how much work is needed to fit an L6 in my centre. I may end up loosing the use of the centre airvents but thats no problem.


----------



## quality_sound

thehatedguy said:


> **** I must be able to hear an ant fart at 500 yards then...lol.


Quote of the day!


----------



## BoilermakerFan

doitor said:


> Started on the rear fill yesterday, but couldnt do a lot.
> 
> 
> Made a little laser aiming contraption.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I got them firing where I wanted, I glued them in place on the D pillars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started to glue some cloth but the general (aka. my wife) cut the fun short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was all I could do yesterday.
> Should be able to get this done this week.
> 
> J.


Man, I love that! I was all set to copy it on my Pilot, but I have the side curtain air bags in the upper 40% of my D pillars. I need to see exactly where they are and then I'll have to make a small line array instead.


----------



## doitor

RattyMcClelland said:


> Yer do please see how it sounds with the centre at say 100-150hz high passed.
> In the meantime im going to see how much work is needed to fit an L6 in my centre. I may end up loosing the use of the centre airvents but thats no problem.


 Re-ran calibration so that all the "over the dash" speakers played only from 300 hz and up with the L8's taking over from 300 down to 60 and the sub taking over from there.
The biggest difference I noticed on the quick drive back to work was that the midbass region wasnt imaging as solid as before.
I'll re-run it again playing a bit lower.
The problem is that is a bit hard to get consistant results with the MS-8 calibration.
It would be a lot easier to do if I could set it up manually.



BoilermakerFan said:


> Man, I love that! I was all set to copy it on my Pilot, but I have the side curtain air bags in the upper 40% of my D pillars. I need to see exactly where they are and then I'll have to make a small line array instead.


Search youtube for airbag going off videos of your car.
That way you can find out if it's safe to put speakers in the pillars.

J.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

doitor said:


> Search youtube for airbag going off videos of your car.
> That way you can find out if it's safe to put speakers in the pillars.
> 
> J.



There are pics of the D-pillars without the covers on the Piloteers site, I just have to go and find the thread again. I can see where the come out of the pillar, I'm just not sure how much space I have behind the trim for bracing and how big the bag actually is. I'm sure I could do an array under 3" diameter. I'll probably use Tang Band, Vifa, or Fostex full range drivers so I don't need tweeters back there.


----------



## quality_sound

Just a heads up, EVERY car on the planet with airbags in the a-pillars deploys them across the door window NOT the windshield. Also, every car I've seen with a-pillar airbags has tethers on them to keep the from flying around the cabin, just in case they do happen to dislodge. The pillars and/or pods are NOT going to go flying and hit you or your passengers. I've seen many pictures of cars with pods that had airbag deployment and on all but one of them the pillars didn't even move. On the last the pillar unseated, but didn't move. 

You'll be fine. Build away.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

quality_sound said:


> Just a heads up, EVERY car on the planet with airbags in the a-pillars deploys them across the door window NOT the windshield. Also, every car I've seen with a-pillar airbags has tethers on them to keep the from flying around the cabin, just in case they do happen to dislodge. The pillars and/or pods are NOT going to go flying and hit you or your passengers. I've seen many pictures of cars with pods that had airbag deployment and on all but one of them the pillars didn't even move. On the last the pillar unseated, but didn't move.
> 
> You'll be fine. Build away.


Thanks. I know they will be coming out to cover the side windows, but I want to make sure I know where the unit is behind the pillar trim and where it deploys. I don't want anything to interfere, but I also don't want them knocked loose as you alluded to in one example you saw. 

My biggest issue is timing, Like the doctor, I have to drive my vehicle daily while hauling kids and removing the trim is a PITA so I only want to do it once and dampen the vehicle at the same time as well as run the cabling for a rear view camera. Just not sure when I'll get the chance to tear out the interior to do all the work.


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## doitor

Small change that made a huge difference.










Now the story behind this.
I've been playing with passives up front and forgot to hook up the front side speakers to the amps, so on my drive to work I only had the center channel playing off the ms-8 and the sub. I kept hearing high frequency content coming from the left a pillar even thought that tweeter was not hooked up.
Reflections are a PITA. :icon_cheesygrin: 
So I went from coax mode to component mode and just used double side tape to smack the tweeter dead center firing back a lot more on axis into the cabin.
Pretty dramatic difference. No more high frequency smearing, very focused and in general a lot better than before.
I'll hook up the rest of the speakers tonight and hear it with the rest of the system.

J.


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## tintbox

Nice to know. Can't wait to see your results after hooking up the rest of the front stage.


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## quality_sound

BoilermakerFan said:


> Thanks. I know they will be coming out to cover the side windows, but I want to make sure I know where the unit is behind the pillar trim and where it deploys. I don't want anything to interfere, but I also don't want them knocked loose as you alluded to in one example you saw.
> 
> My biggest issue is timing, Like the doctor, I have to drive my vehicle daily while hauling kids and removing the trim is a PITA so I only want to do it once and dampen the vehicle at the same time as well as run the cabling for a rear view camera. Just not sure when I'll get the chance to tear out the interior to do all the work.


That one example wasn't "knocked loose", the upper part of the pillar poped out less than an inch. The fastening tabs, tether held it in place and where the pillar slides in behind the dash also was unmoved. 

Of all of the cars with a-pillar airbags I've seen the airbag itself is maybe 1/3 of th way down the pillar. Most of the airbag will fire down and the part of the airbag that fires across the side window is small.


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## doitor

Not really a big update, but I installed B-Quiet's H Liner (B-Quiet sound deadening materials - B-Quiet Hliner) last night, because the original one was messed at a detail shop with a pressure washer.
It was very easy to install and it will protect the hood paint by reflecting the heat.
This is how it looks now.










J.


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## bgx88

Awesome build Doiter, been reading it the past hour and has really shined some light on some things I was thinking of doing in my mustang. Quick question though if I fiberglassed the doors and made speaker pods for L8's tilted upwards and inwards will this be as effective as pods if I keep all the speakers in reference. I plan on going 3 way active possibly passive placing the mids above the L8's which are around stock speaker location and custom pods in place of the factory tweets locations dont have to get specific and this is just the jist of things. Mainly can I get results with pods in the doors same as kicks as I have no room for kicks thanks


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## Brian_smith06

Its amazing how well those hood liners work. I noticed a bigger difference than I anticipated with mine


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## s4turn

is there a dynamat alternative to that? as I dont think we get b-Quiet in NZ

looks like a good idea


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## subwoofery

s4turn said:


> is there a dynamat alternative to that? as I dont think we get b-Quiet in NZ
> 
> looks like a good idea


Please search on the Dynamat website. 

Kelvin


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## Reyne

s4turn said:


> is there a dynamat alternative to that? as I dont think we get b-Quiet in NZ
> 
> looks like a good idea


The Dynamat ones are usually on TradeMe mate.


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## trumpet

I discovered this forum tonight and I've read through this entire thread. It's really fascinating seeing such a high end build with a focus on real-world daily use. Great work!


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## doitor

bgx88 said:


> Awesome build Doiter, been reading it the past hour and has really shined some light on some things I was thinking of doing in my mustang. Quick question though if I fiberglassed the doors and made speaker pods for L8's tilted upwards and inwards will this be as effective as pods if I keep all the speakers in reference. I plan on going 3 way active possibly passive placing the mids above the L8's which are around stock speaker location and custom pods in place of the factory tweets locations dont have to get specific and this is just the jist of things. Mainly can I get results with pods in the doors same as kicks as I have no room for kicks thanks


 Doors are good for the L8's because they have plenty of air, but you need to be very careful about treating the door properly or the L8's will find every little resonance your door can produce. 
If using the L8's as midbass only, it's not really that important how you aim them. It's a lot more important that the baffle is as solid as possible.
Consider moving the midrange to the kicks. Midrange frequencies are a lot more sensitive to IITD, which means that we localize them depending on the arrival time difference. A general rule of thumb is to put them as far away as possible to try and get PLD's the best possible.
Kicks are usually a better location for several reasons, including the fact that there's a lot more metal to get a solid, rattle free install, PLD's, etc. 
Once you go floor, you wont go door.

J.




trumpet said:


> I discovered this forum tonight and I've read through this entire thread. It's really fascinating seeing such a high end build with a focus on real-world daily use. Great work!


Welcome to the forum, trumpet.
Take a look around, there are some incredible builds.
Mine will never be "done".

J.


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## pankrok

doitor said:


> Doors are good for the L8's because they have plenty of air, but you need to be very careful about treating the door properly or the L8's will find every little resonance your door can produce.


couldn't agree more.


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## bhaycraft

Any updates on your system or are you done until you find a new ride ?


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## doitor

bhaycraft said:


> Any updates on your system or are you done until you find a new ride ?


 Just to close the chapter on the CX-7, it went back to stock a while back and I sold it this past weekend.
I wont buy a new car in a while, so I'm on stand by as far as car audio goes.

J.


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## derickveliz

Lo siento mucho...

I'm so sorry to hear that

.


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## Blackbutter

Doitor tiene MP


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## low2001gmc

good work always jorge.....te habientas.....


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## GENEXXA

doitor said:


> Little safety feature added.
> Started with a little panel which had the remote bass control form one of my first installs.
> In the pic I already removed the knob.
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Could you send me the list of what you used. Where 2 buy.
I wanna do the same in my car. Safty first


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