# Who is getting spdif out of their tablets?



## nubz69

I was wondering how you guys are getting digital audio out of your tablets. I have seen Soundman's work on the ipad but it looks like he ran into problems so he abandoned it. I also have not found any projects where you can get SPDIF out on an Android tablet. So has anyone here had any luck?

I originally posted this here.
Who is getting spdif out of their tablets?


Android tablets come in form factors that would be very advantageous for installing in a car environment. I would be trying to build one myself but the android tab I have hasn't been rooted yet. I am currently hoping to sell it so I can buy one that has been rooted.


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## Nismo

Familiar with DLNA? Some tablets come with that, and a JRiver Id will give you a stereo analog RCA output, which you can tie to your deck of choice.

I wonder if the Id can be modded to give a digital output?

Eric


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## nubz69

I am looking for bit accurate SPDIF out of a tablet. I have one idea on how I could build the HW to do it but I would need a rooted tablet. As of now, the Tablet S I have is not rooted so I can't even try. I am hoping someone has figured this out, if it not I may have to sell my current tablet so I can buy a rooted one and give it a try.


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## Nismo

If the tablet has DLNA, it may be LOTS easier to mod the Id. This would allow you the digital out, with the bonus that you could walk around the car, tablet in hand...and still control what gets to the stereo. Great for demos  and doesn't require that you permanently install your expensive tablet into the dash, if you'd prefer not to.

Eric


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## mda185

Is the issue that Android operating system does not have native drivers for USB sound devices or DACs? I ask because some tablets have USB ports. I don't see how rooting a tablet will make a difference unless device drivers exist.


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## nubz69

rooted would matter because I would have to make the hardware and software myself. Kind of hard to do on a tablet you are locked out of.


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## rekd0514

I am excited for this year when tablets with Windows 8 come out as well. I think their will be a huge market for using a tablet as a HU soon. A low cost solution to get everything you need/want all in one unit.


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## pankrok

Nismo said:


> Familiar with DLNA? Some tablets come with that, and a JRiver Id will give you a stereo analog RCA output, which you can tie to your deck of choice.
> 
> I wonder if the Id can be modded to give a digital output?
> 
> Eric


have a link (of the device)?


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## S3T

A bit weird....

Someone from the following forum states that he managed to connect a PCM2704 USB sound card to chinese Android tablet (WITS A81G) running Android 2.2. With slight modification to /system/etc/asound.conf

(warning - russian language detected  )
Alfa 147 + Android - PCCar.ru -


PCM270* family of chips are USB sound cards, with SPDIF/I2S/Analog outputs, and are cheap and available over eBay.


Android 3.0 should natively support USB devices.


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## basshead

i'm also looking to do this with my Playbook, there's no SPDIF output but i guess it would be possible to tap on the data feed to the Wolfson DAC.

Anyone on here have enough electronics knowledge to help me accomplish this?

Wolfson WM8994E Datasheet

here's a pic of the Playbook mainboard


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## basshead

i just remebered, the Playbook got an HDMI output. Maybe ill be able to use that instead


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## Nismo

JRiver Id - JRiverWiki

Eric


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## pankrok

intersting.
is ti possible to stream also FM radio through this little thing?


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## Nismo

Search for DLNA and you'll quickly learn more about it. It's a means of interfacing between different digital devices without having to hook wires up on the back of your TV, etc.

Eric


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## bbfoto

Quite simple, really.  Use the HDMI out from your Android device to an HDMI-to-Digital Coaxial and Optical Audio Converter...for an inexpensive one go to HDMI Cable, Home Theater Accessories, HDMI Products, Cables, Adapters, Video/Audio Switch, Networking, USB, Firewire, Printer Toner, and more! . Then connect this via optical Toslink or digital coaxial cable to your processor.

If your device doesn't have an HDMI port, most of the newer devices have an MHL-enabled microUSB port (the standard Android charging/data port). Look up the MHL (Multi-High-Definition Link) wiki. You can buy a Samsung or monoprice.com MHL-TO-HDMI adapter. This is what you would normally use to connect your phone or tablet to your HDTV to play videos, movies, or angry birds, etc.

The MHL-to-HDMI adapter has a pass-through microUSB port to connect your device cigarette lighter/car charger or wall charger (which must be connected for the adapter to work). You can also connect a powered USB Hub to this port instead and a then your charger and a USB Thumb Drive or portable HDD (if your device supports USB Host devices, which most MHL-enabled devices do). Now you can connect the MHL-to-HDMI out adapter to the HDMI-to-Digital audio converter, and then to your processor. 

Use the Samsung or third-party "Car Home" apps for easy music and video player operation while driving. Any sound that would normally come out of the device's speaker or headphone port is routed digitally over the MHL/HDMI port and on to your processor. 

This works with the Samsung Galaxy S II (GT-i9100) and Galaxy Note (GT-N7000/i9220). These both have an FM Tuner built-in as well, and of course Google Navigation + more so it's awesome.


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## bbfoto

Links:

HDMI to Digital Audio interface:

For only $39.15 each when QTY 50+ purchased - 4X1 HDMI® Switcher w/ Toslink & Digital Coaxial Port (Rev.2) w/ 3D support. | Auto & Powered HDMI Switches

MHL to HDMI adapter:

For only $8.82 each when QTY 50+ purchased - Micro USB to HDMI® MHL Adapter - Black | MHL Adapters 


Power supply for all of the adapters and USB hub:

12 volt to 1.5, 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 volt switching DC/DC converters with 2 amp output car adapter.

DISCLAIMER: Not verified to be a BIT PERFECT solution.

Also, the only Tablet that I know this works with is the OG Asus Transformer. Hoping the new Asus HD Display Quad-Core tablet will work as well.

A better solution would be one of the new Windows 7/8 tablets that come out soon.


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## bbfoto

^Forgot you also need the microUSB OTG (On The Go) cable to plug in a USB thumb drive etc. I've been using my Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000 which works great, but just tried it with my Galaxy S II (SGH-i9100) and it's not working now after I installed the latest software update! 

Ideally, you want to search for a phone or tablet with a separate HDMI port and USB Host-capable USB or microUSB port.

There are a few guys over on the headfi forums that got a rooted 7" Nook Color with CynogenMod7 to work the FiiO E7 DAC/Headphone Amp, but it's not working with the brand new E17.

There is a new 4" (960x640) screen Android cell phone that was just released in China (availble on eBay) called the Miezu MX that is specifically stated to have a *Wolfson DAC* and a *Digital Coaxial output*!

It also supports USB Host Devices via it's MHL-enabled micro USB port, so you can attach a USB HDD or thumb drive, etc. Internal storage is only 16GB, though, and there is no microSD slot for expansion.

Look at the "Features" page (tab at the top of the web page at link below) and then click on the "Music" and "Media Center" (USB Connector) icons on the lower part of page.

*Wolfson WM8958 DAC*

Supports Lossless and Compressed Formats: WAV, FLAC, APE, ACC, MKA, OGG, MP3, MIDI, M4A, AMR.

http://en.meizu.com/products/mx-product.html#picHolder1

Let's hope they release a tablet soon with the same functionality plus expandable storage.

The Windows 7/8 tablets should change all of this and make it easy, but they will be quite a bit more expensive. Much easier than implementing a pieced-together "carPC" setup however.

Just some other "digital out" info: AFAIK, a DAC connected to your computer via USB is limited to 24/96, but when connected via optical or coaxial is capable of 24/192 output.


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## VooDooZg

i am also looking for this solution but only como is Acer Iconia W500(Win7) + USB sound card + BitOne, i have Acer ferrari One laptop with 3.5mm spdf and i try this and is working perfect and i have Terratec usb soudcard and i also try this and is also work perfect now i need 7" tablet with 3.5mm spdf ( android or ios or win8 maybe ) because win7/8 tablet or laptop have problem with speed of turning on form stanby ( its take too long for car use )

and for bitperfect sout form win7 you must have ASIO drivers and best player for asio and bitPerfect SQ sound is AlbumPlayer


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## t3sn4f2

VooDooZg said:


> i am also looking for this solution but only como is Acer Iconia W500(Win7) + USB sound card + BitOne, i have Acer ferrari One laptop with 3.5mm spdf and i try this and is working perfect and i have Terratec usb soudcard and i also try this and is also work perfect now i need 7" tablet with 3.5mm spdf ( android or ios or win8 maybe ) because win7/8 tablet or laptop have problem with speed of turning on form stanby ( its take too long for car use )
> 
> and for bitperfect sout form win7 you must have ASIO drivers and best player for asio and bitPerfect SQ sound is AlbumPlayer



You don't need asio for bit perfect output out of win7. ASIO's main benefit is direct interface with the hardware for lower latency. win7 USB class audio drivers are the same quality and bit perfect. As can be seen from the numerous "driver less" high end USB to s/pdif sound cards.


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## nubz69

Voodoo please let us know if you get an android tablet to work with your usb soundcard.


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## tripanazomi_1

Hello 
I was just after the same issue more or less for my car;
Very simple solution if you are ok to buy an ipad.

- after ipad you have to buy one of these;

a- airport express, it has 3.5 mm out which has digital capability meaning one side 3.5 mm one side toslink cable will work ( you can see the red light from 3.5mm headphone port)

b- buy an apple tv ; it has optical out ; even older generations will work as you will only transfer music and not interested in other properties.

a or b option use the wireless of the ipad , then what ever you play it will be transferred through optical out. 

So You have both SPDIF and wireless together. If you convert your CD-Audio to AAC files then you will not get something different then CD-Audio Track listening. I listened it and its perfect. I dont know if FLAC is available through ipad.

P.S.All of the information has been supplied from my installer. 
Hope it helps


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## bmmark

Didn't cross my mind yet, but it would be great to get some 5.1 in the car with SPDIF.


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## t3sn4f2

FYI on the airport express and apple tv solution....

-The APE take a whole minute to boot each and every time you start the car up.

-You loose the iDevices cellular data connection when connected to the APE since it switches to wifi. As a result, any apps that uses that connection will switch to the more efficient wifi connection for data. And as you know there is no internet on that other end of a wifi connection in the car.

-You also need to manually switch to airplay mode each and every time you want to send audio through the APE since it defaults back to the device's output when the APE powers off or you move out of it's range.

-The APE's digital output suffers from digital ticks and pops whenever you perform any function like pause and track forward. And depending on the DAC, it will also cut off the first few seconds of audio after the functions mention above while the DAC re established the lost sync between itself and the device.

-The above also applies to the apple TV and you also need to buy a DC to AC converter for it since it only has an AC power input. The APE does as well but there are mod options to convert it to 5 volt DC (ie standard USB voltage)

Nowadays, there are other affordable options in the same price range as the APE which don't have any of those limitation. The Pure i-20 for one gives you a re-clocked high quality digital output (as well as a high quality 2 volt analog out). It charges the device. *It puts the device into line out mode, disabling the volume slider.* It boots and syncs in less than 5 seconds. It's only $99. It doesn't loose sync with the DAC after the initial boot up so no full scale pops or ticks. It can be powered off a ny high quality affordable universal DC to DC car converter that puts out 7.5 volts DC.

User Less has been using one in his car with an iPod and it has been working great.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/118616-testing-pure-i20-bit-1-5-ipod-pad-phone-digital-output.html

The link to the power supply he uses seems to be broken. Here's the correct link.

12 volt to 1.5, 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 volt switching DC/DC converters with 2 amp output car adapter.

The only issue and a major one really, yet one that can be resolved fairly easy is that the i-20 can not provide the current to charge an iPad. But I imagine that you can tap into the usb power pins directly and feed them externally alongside i-20 dock.

And of course you need a dock connector extension cable so you can mount the dock in the dash away from the ipad if need be.

This solution seems even better than the more commonly used camera kit to usb spdif converter that people use to pull the digital signal out of the ipad. Reason being that I don't think those converters maintain digital sync. 

The pure dock also has a remote with master volume control for both the digital output and the analog outputs. Its a digital domain attenuator so quality is questionable and does not measure as good as other digital volume controls I've tested like the one on my emu-0404PCI soundcard. I would not us it unless there was absolutely no other option. 

One tip for anyone that ends up using it. Make sure to check that the master volume control on the dock is set to max each time you do something funky on the idevice like reboot or reset. The dock tends to revert to an attenuated setting when that is done. Just sit there and press the volume up a bunch of times till you stop here the volume increase and you're set.

Edit: I haven't used the dock since before the iOS 5.x releases. It appears that there has been a functionally change in how the docking affects the volume slider on audio apps. The sentence in bold above is how it used to work for me in previous OS version. The display would go from the slider on the bottom of the ipod app to nothing displayed (ie typical analog line out dock mode). The only way to know what i-20 dock master volume setting you were on was to use the remote and rely on the assumption that slick many times on the up button of the remote would put you at max volume setting. Since the i-20 on screen volume display was very crude. 

Now however, the display looks as it normally does when not docked to anything, but now the volume slider and volume up down buttons control the i-20 internal digital volume control. 

Could be a good thing for those that want to use it and a bad thing for those that are only using the idevice as a traditionally digital source, and would have to be mindful not to accidentally lower the volume.


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## tripanazomi_1

Hello again ;

Ok here is another solution by ipad. 
Didnt try them , just showing info

ID100 from cambridgeaudio.com

It says that it bypasses the DAC of the ipad and transport the raw data to your DAC so you obtain pure audio. 

P.S. Personally I will use a small media player in car, to have spdif out ( only for FLAC of my CD collection) , I searched and found a media player which has a small LCD showing which file you are running as well as folder name etc. ( 5 lines) , it looks like jitter will be the issue but this is more or less the same way audison is going at the moment.


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## oca123

t3sn4f2 said:


> FYI on the airport express and apple tv solution....
> 
> -The APE take a whole minute to boot each and every time you start the car up.
> 
> -You loose the iDevices cellular data connection when connected to the APE since it switches to wifi. As a result, any apps that uses that connection will switch to the more efficient wifi connection for data. And as you know there is no internet on that other end of a wifi connection in the car.
> 
> -You also need to manually switch to airplay mode each and every time you want to send audio through the APE since it defaults back to the device's output when the APE powers off or you move out of it's range.
> 
> -The APE's digital output suffers from digital ticks and pops whenever you perform any function like pause and track forward. And depending on the DAC, it will also cut off the first few seconds of audio after the functions mention above while the DAC re established the lost sync between itself and the device.
> 
> -The above also applies to the apple TV and you also need to buy a DC to AC converter for it since it only has an AC power input. The APE does as well but there are mod options to convert it to 5 volt DC (ie standard USB voltage)
> 
> Nowadays, there are other affordable options in the same price range as the APE which don't have any of those limitation. The Pure i-20 for one gives you a re-clocked high quality digital output (as well as a high quality 2 volt analog out). It charges the device. *It puts the device into line out mode, disabling the volume slider.* It boots and syncs in less than 5 seconds. It's only $99. It doesn't loose sync with the DAC after the initial boot up so no full scale pops or ticks. It can be powered off a ny high quality affordable universal DC to DC car converter that puts out 7.5 volts DC.
> 
> User Less has been using one in his car with an iPod and it has been working great.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/118616-testing-pure-i20-bit-1-5-ipod-pad-phone-digital-output.html
> 
> The link to the power supply he uses seems to be broken. Here's the correct link.
> 
> 12 volt to 1.5, 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 volt switching DC/DC converters with 2 amp output car adapter.
> 
> The only issue and a major one really, yet one that can be resolved fairly easy is that the i-20 can not provide the current to charge an iPad. But I imagine that you can tap into the usb power pins directly and feed them externally alongside i-20 dock.
> 
> And of course you need a dock connector extension cable so you can mount the dock in the dash away from the ipad if need be.
> 
> This solution seems even better than the more commonly used camera kit to usb spdif converter that people use to pull the digital signal out of the ipad. Reason being that I don't think those converters maintain digital sync.
> 
> The pure dock also has a remote with master volume control for both the digital output and the analog outputs. Its a digital domain attenuator so quality is questionable and does not measure as good as other digital volume controls I've tested like the one on my emu-0404PCI soundcard. I would not us it unless there was absolutely no other option.
> 
> One tip for anyone that ends up using it. Make sure to check that the master volume control on the dock is set to max each time you do something funky on the idevice like reboot or reset. The dock tends to revert to an attenuated setting when that is done. Just sit there and press the volume up a bunch of times till you stop here the volume increase and you're set.
> 
> Edit: I haven't used the dock since before the iOS 5.x releases. It appears that there has been a functionally change in how the docking affects the volume slider on audio apps. The sentence in bold above is how it used to work for me in previous OS version. The display would go from the slider on the bottom of the ipod app to nothing displayed (ie typical analog line out dock mode). The only way to know what i-20 dock master volume setting you were on was to use the remote and rely on the assumption that slick many times on the up button of the remote would put you at max volume setting. Since the i-20 on screen volume display was very crude.
> 
> Now however, the display looks as it normally does when not docked to anything, but now the volume slider and volume up down buttons control the i-20 internal digital volume control.
> 
> Could be a good thing for those that want to use it and a bad thing for those that are only using the idevice as a traditionally digital source, and would have to be mindful not to accidentally lower the volume.


nice, i didnt know anyone else had tried the i20. i have had mine for a while now, initially powered by a dc-dc psu (link DCDC-USB, Intelligent DC-DC converter with USB interface) i had left over from my old car PC days, then by a homemade 12v to 7.5dc psu with a microrelay ($10 in parts from radioshack)

i opened up the i20 and cut it up, etc to make it smaller and strapped it to the back of my amp rack against the backseat. this was required because two extender cables back to back didnt work.

it has worked great. my ipod has the volume slider when connected and it is maxed out with the bitone DRC being used instead.

i have to admit though, that while going from analog jack to spdif was a huge improvement for my ears, i am unable to discern any SQ loss from using the i20 to reduce volume


edit: the homemade psu is tiny. a lot smaller than the one t3sn4f2 linked to.


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## audiopluscny

I have a galaxy note8 with a behringer uac202 USB dac, it has optical out and works great with my ps8. Tablet controls volume also.

edit: looks like I'm two years to late.........


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## PsyCLown

Hmm, I was unsure as to whether that DAC would work with Android.

I plan on doing the same after a lot of consideration, the price of a tablet vs the price of a higher end HU. The extra features you get with a tablet as well as the convenience (IMO) just makes soo much sense.

Obviously you get to run everything digital until the DSP which should help improve sound quality a bit as well.

I plan on going this route although with a Windows 8 tablet. Would prefer to get one of the newer 64bit tablets when they start coming out.


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## pankrok

its greek to you its a solution also
Δέκτης Wi-Fi με οπτική έξοδο

wifi to toslink converter


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## PsyCLown

Hmm, interesting.

Although that is a DAC itself. Does it have an optical out which is able to keep the signal digital and not do any converting?


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## pankrok

both
cheap dac with line output but toslink also 
I have the bt version with aptx which is suppose to have "cd quality" over bt but havent got the time to test it yet. 
bt version costs about eur70 and this is expected to be cheaper (currently shows in stock , last week i checked it was expected so maybe eur 60 is final price) 

the only problem is that you need to provide decent 5v power.


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## captainobvious

audiopluscny said:


> I have a galaxy note8 with a behringer uac202 USB dac, it has optical out and works great with my ps8. Tablet controls volume also.
> 
> edit: looks like I'm two years to late.........


Does the Behringer actually need to be controlled via USB? Meaning, if you have a simple USB power port to power it up (no pc connection), will it still take the analog in and convert to digital spdif out with no other action?


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## audiopluscny

PsyCLown said:


> Hmm, I was unsure as to whether that DAC would work with Android.
> 
> I plan on doing the same after a lot of consideration, the price of a tablet vs the price of a higher end HU. The extra features you get with a tablet as well as the convenience (IMO) just makes soo much sense.
> 
> Obviously you get to run everything digital until the DSP which should help improve sound quality a bit as well.
> 
> I plan on going this route although with a Windows 8 tablet. Would prefer to get one of the newer 64bit tablets when they start coming out.


Android is more in car friendly. 64 bit with android only a small percentage of apps will benefit. Just like when X64 came out for windows it took a while for 64 bit apps. most newer Samsung tablets are fast and have USB dac support.. windows is more powerful but lacks the ease android has while you are driving. I also can tell you how to get some blue tooth steering wheel controls working with arduino and android if anyone is interested. 

I will test if the behringer will take analog in and convert to toshlink.


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## captainobvious

Thanks, much appreciated!


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## audiopluscny

captainobvious said:


> Thanks, much appreciated!


It works fine headphone jack out to dac optical to ps8 you have to flip the monitor mode switch.


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## captainobvious

Sweet! Thanks for testing it out


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## javiertoti

Hi friends. Any news?


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## audiopluscny

javiertoti said:


> Hi friends. Any news?


Android L (5.0) now has native usb dac support. Now we have native volume control and support for many usb dacs. Any tablet with andoid 5.0 (lollipop ) usb dac should work with no hacks and no issues.tissues.Thanks to all audiophiles driving Google crazy to get it implemented.


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## bbfoto

^Definitely good news. 

I'm waiting until June to see if the new Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 comes out with Lollipop/5.0. Rumor is Samsung is currently going to make most of the TouchWiz UI features independently downloadable...meaning you will be closer to stock Android and can choose only the TouchWiz features or bloat that you want. 

The current model (SM-T700) is nice with its 8.4" 1600x2560 SuperAMOLED display. There are also 3G/4G data carrier versions available. But the new model should be a big jump up in Processor power and speed.

Here's a link to the leak of the new model, SM-T825...
SM-T825 could be the new Galaxy Tab S | SamMobile

There are new 10.1" Galaxy Note tablets supposedly coming in June as well...called the (2015 Edition).

Supposedly my current Galaxy Note 8.0 (GT-N5100) is slated to get the Android 5.0 update, so I might not _need_ to upgrade. It's also a GSM phone with 3G/HSPA+ data as well, but I'd only use the phone/calling functions as a backup to the Note 4, LOL.

Anyway, I'm stoked that Android 5.0/Lollipop will support USB DACs without major workarounds!


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## jdigital

Matrix USB-spdif is good because it doesn't need a powered usb hub to work. Works good to get spdif output from iOS devices and works with meizu phone which is android.


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## audiopluscny

Your note 8 should work great with a usb dac. I had one note 8 is a great tablet. Also you can make home back and recent buttons volume up down and screen wake up. Any questions pm me I'll help you out.


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## audiopluscny

jdigital said:


> Matrix USB-spdif is good because it doesn't need a powered usb hub to work. Works good to get spdif output from iOS devices and works with meizu phone which is android.


I just use a 30 $ beringer uac 202 no need for external power. Works awsome


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## Jcharger13

audiopluscny said:


> I just use a 30 $ beringer uac 202 no need for external power. Works awsome


Nice, I just plugged a uca202 I had laying around in to my IPad (through a camera kit) and it powered right up. Can't believe that I never thought of trying it. Thanks for the tip.


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## audiopluscny

Jcharger13 said:


> Nice, I just plugged a uca202 I had laying around in to my IPad (through a camera kit) and it powered right up. Can't believe that I never thought of trying it. Thanks for the tip.


How's the helix dsp pro working out for you ever used the ps8 how does it compare?


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## bbfoto

audiopluscny said:


> Your note 8 should work great with a usb dac. I had one note 8 is a great tablet. Also you can make home back and recent buttons volume up down and screen wake up. Any questions pm me I'll help you out.


Yes, I love my Note 8.0 and use it every day...using it to make this post, in fact.  It's the perfect size for me and the S-pen features come in very handy for my work. I've tried nearly every tablet out there, both Android and iOS, and still prefer the Note 8.0. I also keep it as a backup phone to my Note 4.

It does work great with a few decent USB DACs, and I'm using it as my main source unit in one of my vehicles, but I'd like the option to use it with some other higher-end DACs as well, both in the car and at home.

Regarding the Processors, if you mostly want to use digital sources to connect to a DSP, at the moment I would not begin to consider the PS8 as there is no volume controller/remote for Digital sources. A few folks here also complain about its quirks and stability and do not enjoy tuning with it, though some love it. How are you handling volume control with the Note 8 and PS8? Are you just using the Note's Volume control?

On the other hand, everyone generally agrees that the Helix units are very stable and have a fairly intuitive UI. The DSP PRO is also the only car audio processor available that has a 24/96 throughput and also 10 channels instead of 8. It might not be perfect (no processor is) but IMO I probably wouldn't buy any other processor at this point in time if your budget permits it. Recently, Audiotech-Fischer have been very open to user-suggestions and have made some quick changes and updates to the software to accomodate those requests. Also, you can usually get them for quite a bit less than the MSRP. 

Read more about each of the processors in their respective threads here for more specifics and comparisons. 

Thanks for your posts and great information!


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## audiopluscny

bbfoto said:


> Yes, I love my Note 8.0 and use it every day...using it to make this post, in fact.  It's the perfect size for me and the S-pen features come in very handy for my work. I've tried nearly every tablet out there, both Android and iOS, and still prefer the Note 8.0. I also keep it as a backup phone to my Note 4.
> 
> It does work great with a few decent USB DACs, and I'm using it as my main source unit in one of my vehicles, but I'd like the option to use it with some other higher-end DACs as well, both in the car and at home.
> 
> Regarding the Processors, if you mostly want to use digital sources to connect to a DSP, at the moment I would not begin to consider the PS8 as there is no volume controller/remote for Digital sources. A few folks here also complain about its quirks and stability and do not enjoy tuning with it, though some love it. How are you handling volume control with the Note 8 and PS8? Are you just using the Note's Volume control?
> 
> On the other hand, everyone generally agrees that the Helix units are very stable and have a fairly intuitive UI. The DSP PRO is also the only car audio processor available that has a 24/96 throughput and also 10 channels instead of 8. It might not be perfect (no processor is) but IMO I probably wouldn't buy any other processor at this point in time if your budget permits it. Recently, Audiotech-Fischer have been very open to user-suggestions and have made some quick changes and updates to the software to accomodate those requests. Also, you can usually get them for quite a bit less than the MSRP.
> 
> Read more about each of the processors in their respective threads here for more specifics and comparisons.
> 
> Thanks for your posts and great information!


Just so you know with a Samsung tablet you can control volume while using optical out of the dac. (After trying a few dacs analog out the optical had the best sound and zero noise) I used it with my note 8 and now with my 8.4 pro with android4.4.2. To my ps8.now with lolipop there is digital volume control built in like most samsung devices have already.
The only real problem I had with the helix dsp was the lack of output 4v vs the 8v in the ps8. But I sold my ps8 and might try the pro.. thank you for the input.


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## Jcharger13

I never ran a ps8 so can't compare them, sorry. I have ran a bit1 and 360.3. The bit one wasn't bad, the 360.3 was unstable. The DSP pro has been very solid. It's not perfect but is it the best that I've used, yes.


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## bbfoto

Unfortunately, it looks as if the USB DAC support in Android 5 will still be limited to 16 bit/44k or 48k sample rates. That _could_ change, but for now you can bypass that limitation completely by using the UAPP app...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudioplayerpro&hl=en

It's not the greatest UI and doesn't have the best playback features, but the developers are working on lots of updates.


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## teabagius

For anyone in the thread that is interested, USB Audio Player PRO app for android solved my problems that I was having with getting USB streaming audio from my Galaxy Note 4 using a MiniDSP USBStreamer. It is working like a charm now. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. There is a lot of good information here.


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## doukhobar

This is a good thread. I am also interested in USB implementation into a DSP, as well as a home audio DAC. 

Thanks for the tip on USB Audio Player Pro!

From their website:

BYPASSING THE LIMITS OF ANDROID
When connecting an Android phone or tablet to a USB DAC, USB Audio Player PRO will unleash the full power of the DAC, by using our custom developed USB audio driver. This bypasses the Android audio system completely, meaning that Android's limitations regarding bit resolution and sample rate (16-bit/48kHz) are made irrelevant and high quality audio streams are fed directly to the DAC, making playback up to 32-bit at 384kHz possible (depending on the DAC capabilities) or even DSD.

Looks like you can get high res files from your android tablet now out via USB...


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## doukhobar

teabagius said:


> For anyone in the thread that is interested, USB Audio Player PRO app for android solved my problems that I was having with getting USB streaming audio from my Galaxy Note 4 using a MiniDSP USBStreamer. It is working like a charm now. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. There is a lot of good information here.


TeabagIus: I see you are using USB Audio Player PRO on your Android from your Samsung Note 4. Are you converting that to Optical and into a DSP? What is your setup?? 

Thanks!!

Audio Player Pro link:
USB Audio Player PRO


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## bbfoto

doukhobar said:


> TeabagIus: I see you are using USB Audio Player PRO on your Android from your Samsung Note 4. Are you converting that to Optical and into a DSP? What is your setup??
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> Audio Player Pro link:
> USB Audio Player PRO


I'm not TeabagIus, but I'll share some notes on my setup from another thread:

I'm using the "SMSL X-USB XMOS USB to Coaxial Optical Converter DSD IIS Digital Audio Interface"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UX5LGAA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Bj24vbQKRHTAQ

SMSL X-USB XMOS USB to Spdif Converter DAC DSD IIS Digital Audio Interface - Professional Audio Store - Shenzhenaudio.com

The SMSL X-USB has a display so you can see what digital sample rate it is receiving.

The "SMSL X-USB" is tiny and I'm using it connected via Optical Toslink cable into my Helix DSP PRO. For this processor you will need the URC-2A or Director Remote to Control Digital Volume if you do not want to use the Software Volume Control in that is optional when using the UAPP app.

I can confirm that the SMSL X-USB works perfectly to output a Digital signal over both the Toslink Optical and Coaxial RCA when using the International versions of the Samsung Galaxy Note 2, Note 4, Note 8, and my buddy's AT&T Samsung Galaxy Alpha.

I did not need to use a USB Hub or OTG+Power "Y" cable for this to work on all of the above devices...it worked fine with a simple OTG cable with power supplied over USB by the device itself (though the battery will drain quickly this way so I do suggest using an OTG Y-cable or powered USB hub).

I only use the "USB Audio Player Pro" App from the Google Play store. One plus is that it supports Gapless Playback, and it also has good ID3 Tag and Album Art support. Both the "UAPP" App and the SMSL simultaneously display the proper Bitrate for each file that is being played. I've tried files with bit depths & sample rates from 16/44, 24/88, 24/96, and 24/192, and both the app and the SMSL display the proper sample rate.

I initially tested the SMSL X-USB by connecting the Optical Toslink output and then via Digital Coaxial RCA output into my Oppo HA-1's respective inputs. The Oppo also displays and confirms the incoming bit depth and sample rate properly.

The SMSL X-USB works perfectly when fed into the Helix DSP PRO. I have not tried it yet with my RF 360.3 or Sony XDP-4000X processors, but see no reason why it wouldn't work with those as well (but Hi-Res files above 16/48 will be down-sampled by the processor).

The SMSL X-USB will not play any DSD files using your Car Audio Processor that has Toslink or Coaxial inputs, because the SMSL only outputs the DSD signal through its I2S mini-HDMI type-C port, and not through Toslink or Coaxial.

All-in-all, the SMSL X-USB is a great little unit and will not take up much space in your install, and the SQ is fantastic. The recent major update to the UAPP app made a huge difference in both GUI and features.

Hope this helps.


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## Babs

Hmm that makes me wonder if a 12v USB hub would allow simultaneous charging and media from an iPad Air via camera connection kit adapter on the iPad, then feed one of these nifty USB to optical DAC's for the Helix DSP. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## javiertoti

BUMP! Any news?


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## Beastbike

I am

IPad mini 2 to usb3 camera adapter to phiree u2s

Works great so far, only issue is it flattens the Ipad within 2-3 days (its all a permanent fit in my car)

To overcome it (after loads of attempts) I have bought a lightning extension cable, cut it and fitted an 8 way relay off the ignition.

It works, but doesn't!!!! (The extension is terrible quality so sometimes disconnects)

It's been a huge work in progress, but almost there now. Time and money etc


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## jazzpassine

bbfoto said:


> I'm not TeabagIus, but I'll share some notes on my setup from another thread:
> 
> I'm using the "SMSL X-USB XMOS USB to Coaxial Optical Converter DSD IIS Digital Audio Interface"
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UX5LGAA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Bj24vbQKRHTAQ
> 
> SMSL X-USB XMOS USB to Spdif Converter DAC DSD IIS Digital Audio Interface - Professional Audio Store - Shenzhenaudio.com
> 
> The SMSL X-USB has a display so you can see what digital sample rate it is receiving.
> 
> The "SMSL X-USB" is tiny and I'm using it connected via Optical Toslink cable into my Helix DSP PRO. For this processor you will need the URC-2A or Director Remote to Control Digital Volume if you do not want to use the Software Volume Control in that is optional when using the UAPP app.
> 
> I can confirm that the SMSL X-USB works perfectly to output a Digital signal over both the Toslink Optical and Coaxial RCA when using the International versions of the Samsung Galaxy Note 2, Note 4, Note 8, and my buddy's AT&T Samsung Galaxy Alpha.
> 
> I did not need to use a USB Hub or OTG+Power "Y" cable for this to work on all of the above devices...it worked fine with a simple OTG cable with power supplied over USB by the device itself (though the battery will drain quickly this way so I do suggest using an OTG Y-cable or powered USB hub).
> 
> I only use the "USB Audio Player Pro" App from the Google Play store. One plus is that it supports Gapless Playback, and it also has good ID3 Tag and Album Art support. Both the "UAPP" App and the SMSL simultaneously display the proper Bitrate for each file that is being played. I've tried files with bit depths & sample rates from 16/44, 24/88, 24/96, and 24/192, and both the app and the SMSL display the proper sample rate.
> 
> I initially tested the SMSL X-USB by connecting the Optical Toslink output and then via Digital Coaxial RCA output into my Oppo HA-1's respective inputs. The Oppo also displays and confirms the incoming bit depth and sample rate properly.
> 
> The SMSL X-USB works perfectly when fed into the Helix DSP PRO. I have not tried it yet with my RF 360.3 or Sony XDP-4000X processors, but see no reason why it wouldn't work with those as well (but Hi-Res files above 16/48 will be down-sampled by the processor).
> 
> The SMSL X-USB will not play any DSD files using your Car Audio Processor that has Toslink or Coaxial inputs, because the SMSL only outputs the DSD signal through its I2S mini-HDMI type-C port, and not through Toslink or Coaxial.
> 
> All-in-all, the SMSL X-USB is a great little unit and will not take up much space in your install, and the SQ is fantastic. The recent major update to the UAPP app made a huge difference in both GUI and features.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I've been looking into the SMSL X-USB. If I run an OTG Y or Hub will I lose sound quality?

Thanks


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## Hammer1

You will not lose sound quality with a hub or Y cable with the SMSL X-usb. I have one sitting in the box that I do not use anymore that worked great that way


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## bbfoto

jazzpassine said:


> I've been looking into the SMSL X-USB. If I run an OTG Y or Hub will I lose sound quality?
> 
> Thanks


Using an OTG Y cable and/or powered USB Hub will not in and of itself reduce the sound quality AFAIK. But for digital audio, it's best to keep data-packet handling over the USB bus to a minimum...i.e. to a single source or single device, especially for hi-res audio. For instance, it's better to have just one USB device sending and receiving data packets over a USB bus, as opposed to 2 or more different USB devices having to "juggle" the organization (timing) and the send/receive cycle of their many different individual data packets. The USB bus has a limited amount of bandwidth and resources, and you don't want to max out those resources otherwise you will run into packet delays and/or errors in the data (glitches).

I would advise that you use a High-Quality, Clean, Filtered, Noise-Free Power Supply to provide power to the OTG USB Y Cable and/or USB HUB. The readily available and inexpensive cigarette lighter type USB power adapters are among the noisiest and worst you could use. A stable, clean, noise-free, power supply is one of the most important components in any high-end audio device.

There are a few home and portable audio companies that produce USB power filter devices, such as those by *iFi* but they are fairly expensive solutions. And you can find "clean" or filtered USB power supplies on eBay or Amazon if you do a search, but without proper testing, who knows if they really work or not?

To circumvent a noisy USB power supply, I simply use a portable Li-Ion USB "juice pack" type USB battery pack as my power supply, and I charge it while audio is not being played.

Just my .02. YMMV


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## AyOne

I am using a sosche revolt USB adapter for my power source. I agree with needing clean power for anything A/V related. I recently picked up an Audioquest Jitterbug I’m gonna see if it does anything to actually reduce noise.


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## jazzpassine

bbfoto said:


> Using an OTG Y cable and/or powered USB Hub will not in and of itself reduce the sound quality AFAIK. But for digital audio, it's best to keep data-packet handling over the USB bus to a minimum...i.e. to a single source or single device, especially for hi-res audio. For instance, it's better to have just one USB device sending and receiving data packets over a USB bus, as opposed to 2 or more different USB devices having to "juggle" the organization (timing) and the send/receive cycle of their many different individual data packets. The USB bus has a limited amount of bandwidth and resources, and you don't want to max out those resources otherwise you will run into packet delays and/or errors in the data (glitches).
> 
> I would advise that you use a High-Quality, Clean, Filtered, Noise-Free Power Supply to provide power to the OTG USB Y Cable and/or USB HUB. The readily available and inexpensive cigarette lighter type USB power adapters are among the noisiest and worst you could use. A stable, clean, noise-free, power supply is one of the most important components in any high-end audio device.
> 
> There are a few home and portable audio companies that produce USB power filter devices, such as those by *iFi* but they are fairly expensive solutions. And you can find "clean" or filtered USB power supplies on eBay or Amazon if you do a search, but without proper testing, who knows if they really work or not?
> 
> To circumvent a noisy USB power supply, I simply use a portable Li-Ion USB "juice pack" type USB battery pack as my power supply, and I charge it while audio is not being played.
> 
> Just my .02. YMMV


Thanks, that makes sense. I have a battery pack like that, that I could use.


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