# how to: fiberglass fabrication



## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

buddy of mine posted this on our local site...figured i'd link it here.

mad skills he's got...mad skills!

http://www.cicenet.net/showthread.php?t=4124


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Nice...!!! X1000


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## robbyho (Oct 21, 2005)

I think he is missing the pics where he reinforced the resin-soaked-carpet from behind with fiberglass.

At least I hope he is missing those pics.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

always a hater! 



> If needed, you can add fiberglass mat to the backside for extra strength. You will have to decide if your piece requires this or not. You can do as many layers as necessary.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

robbyho said:


> I think he is missing the pics where he reinforced the resin-soaked-carpet from behind with fiberglass.
> 
> At least I hope he is missing those pics.


Doesn't sound like it, but it looks nice.



> If needed, you can add fiberglass mat to the backside for extra strength. You will have to decide if your piece requires this or not. You can do as many layers as necessary.


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## BLD MOVS (Sep 23, 2007)

Very nice!!


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## meteoro84 (Jul 10, 2006)

niceeeeeee


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## robbyho (Oct 21, 2005)

Guys, I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but if those panels aren't reinforced with fiberglass on the backside, then they are not "nice" at all. They will flex and the paint will crack in a matter of months or sooner. Knowing of so many fabricators who don't reinforce, I am hesitant to give him the benefit of the doubt regardless of the quality of finish (a hem, orange peel).

I am not one to hate on teh internet, but structural reinforcement it is an important thing to look for when it comes to fabrication of this sort. Whether you be the one doing it or paying for it, you should expect it. 

Robby


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

in case you didn't read through the lines...

they___are___reinforced.

he'll be updating the thread if he hasn't already.

thanks for your concern. 

*edit - actually, yeah, looks like he did update it.



> If needed, you can add fiberglass mat to the backside for extra strength. You will have to decide if your piece requires this or not. You can do as many layers as necessary. *I added multiple layers of cloth on the exposed areas on the inside of the enclosures.* You can also use this method to seal up gaps, holes etc.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Wow... Your friend does great work. Very impressive.


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## robbyho (Oct 21, 2005)

benny z said:


> in case you didn't read through the lines...
> 
> they___are___reinforced.
> 
> ...


glad to hear it!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Your friend does some nice work. Though that's the first time I've seen anyone use speaker box carpet as their forming medium. I would think that would be a bit on the expensive side in comparison to fleece or t-shirt material. But it seems to work for him.

The one thing that I didn't catch on there. Was he adding layers of glass to the inside of the speaker enclosures or to the outside?

Zach


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

not sure why he used the carpet. i'd guess because it was just handy...he has huge rolls of several different colors at the shop, so that's probably why he just used that. may also have something to do with the strength of the backing...not sure.

he applied layers of fiberglass matting to the back side (inside) of the enclosures after the resin had cured on the carpet.


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## MidnightCE (Mar 5, 2007)

I'm disturbed by how many people don't take safety precautions when working with resin.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

benny z said:


> not sure why he used the carpet. i'd guess because it was just handy...he has huge rolls of several different colors at the shop, so that's probably why he just used that. may also have something to do with the strength of the backing...not sure.
> 
> he applied layers of fiberglass matting to the back side (inside) of the enclosures after the resin had cured on the carpet.


If he has that much carpet laying around the shop then that would easily explain why he chose to use it.  And he has a great deal of patience to do layers of glass inside the enclosure. I'm way too impatient for that. I just do layers on the outside because it's about 10 million times easier. LOL!

And the amp rack/enclosures turned out beautifully once the paint was finished on them. Very nice work.



Midnight, you're right. I've seen so many people glassing stuff without wearing a respirator or even wearing rubber gloves. Not the most intelligent people though. Maybe Darwin was right after all?


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Thanks to : mklett33 of www.fiberglassforums.com



mklett33 said:


> For an average project the following items and materials are needed. Anything that does not have a specified price means it is under $10. Anything that does not have a location to obtain the item is assumed that you would be able to find the item easily in a typical store. The items are ordered in a manner to help with the production of a work piece. (Note: Common tools ie. Table saw, jig saw are not listed)
> 
> *Plunge router:* Very useful, allows you to use all sorts of various bits and such. Used to make rings and rabbit grooves into skeleton structures allowing for cleaner edges where the fiberglass structure meets the wood structure. Obtain at hardware stores. $50 and up.
> 
> ...


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Also A Great Post On www.fiberglassforums.com




Triple-X said:


> DISCLAIMER: This thread will appear pointless at a glance unless you READ the text in between each picture)
> 
> 
> well i went to Joanns Fabrics to pick up some vinyl samples and look at some micro suede .. and i remembered that orange felt that frodo uses.. so i grabbed a yard to try..
> ...


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Next part


> heres both pods curing.. I got impatient so i brought out the heat gun to convince the resin to cure (it was cool out and I used B440 which yields great pot life). plus i wanted to mix it properly and not over catalyze it which would make the resin excessively brittle and could affect the overall outcome of my little test and its results.. just enough heat was added to help jump start the exothermic reaction..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

And then the finished 


> I could have gotten it to obviously.. but only wanted to exert as much force as i did with the thicker felt material to make it snap..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## DrJamesHouse (Aug 28, 2008)

Nice!


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

More Tricks from the Masters


epicenterdesigns said:


> Tips given by Triple-X.
> 
> Props to him for teaching his methods.
> 
> ...


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

I guess I will add my door pods aswell..

Ok I start my tape'n the door after the Dynamay/Second Skin has been added
I then Glass the shape of the door,
I used a marker to show the shape I wanted So I can cut it to that shape later, I Used 3/4" MDF for my ring but plan on doing them from 1/4" Aluminum later this year..
I then glass the ring to the door skin,
I used My Second Skin to seal the pod after I mounted it..
Im adding some closedcell foam to the door panel & the speaker ring to seal the cone to the door, this is so more of the energy of the speaker is going into the cab of the car insted of the inside of the door..
The Door Pods


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