# Help with building a legit audio system for 16' boat



## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Im going to totally replace my boats system. The el cheapo pyle headunit with two 5.25 speakers are not doing it for me anymore.

I need help with the placement of some subs and speakers though. There is tons of space infront of the capains chairs by your feet for a sub box on each side or there is some space underneath the rear seat (11" from floor to bottom of the seat) would it be better behind me or by my feet?

As far as head units, im torn between an Alpine CDA-118M and Kenwood KMR-700U right now. Any suggestions? I was going to order 4 Kicker coaxial 5.25 for mids/highs. For subs, Im not sure. Maybe 2 10" Alpine SWR-1043D???

Any ideas or anything im missing?

Ill post better pics if someone sees any potential in this thread...


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## joemk69 (Dec 3, 2010)

IMO the Kenwood is a POS, I installed one in my friends boat and always has problems with the contacts on the face plate. Why not do a set of pro audio 12's or 15's and some horns?


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Yeah I'm leaning towards the alpine. My buddy has two new kicker L5 subs hell give me a deal on... What do you think? I'll look into pro audio also


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## joemk69 (Dec 3, 2010)

I would stay away from any power hungry speakers, it will be hard to keep the battery fully charged because of lack of alternator/generator capabilites. I would keep it simple and use very efficient speakers/amps. If it was me I would just do a pair of horns and a pair of 10/12 pro audio drivers ran passive.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Yeah your right that is something to think about... I did buy another battery for it which I was going to isolate for the audio. Can you post some direct links or something so I get a better idea of what to look for? 

Thanks alot, your helping me out a ton.


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## joemk69 (Dec 3, 2010)

Matt_g said:


> Yeah your right that is something to think about... I did buy another battery for it which I was going to isolate for the audio. Can you post some direct links or something so I get a better idea of what to look for?
> 
> Thanks alot, your helping me out a ton.


Selenium 12PW3-SLF 12" Driver 264-334

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-270

Dayton Audio H6512 6-1/2" x 12" Waveguide 1" Threaded 270-318

Dayton Audio XO2W-2K 2-Way Crossover 2,000 Hz 260-140


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Thanks a lot. And you think that would sound better than two kicker L5s? What amp should I be looking at also?

I might as well buy you a plane ticket and have you install it too haha.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

There is no way I would ever run a pro audio set up in my boat. Yes, they are efficient, but a paper cone. HAHAHAHA. One time leaving the cover off or caught in a rain storm = not good. And where to put a horn. I am not giving up the little storage space for the horn body.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Because it never ever rains at concerts


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

chad said:


> Because it never ever rains at concerts


I have never seen an outdoor concert that was not under a pavilion. So even when it does ran at a concert, the speakers have way more protection than a boat. (Cabin boat excluded)

I just know that on my boat liquids are all over the boat. People wet from swimming/tubing, drinks being spilled, rain, and power washing. 

Like I said before, I would never put pro audio on MY boat. Besides can anyone show me someone that has used pro audio and had it last, on a boat?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Scotchguard the piss out of them, many "paper" pro audio speakers, at least the real ones, are shockingly resilient to water.... There are also types of coverings you can use to shed the water, Meyer Sound uses it, as does QSC and EAW. Works great, even in driving wind. Speakers get wet in professional situations, that's all there is to it, when the weather turns we don't pack the trucks.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

sjr033 said:


> Besides can anyone show me someone that has used pro audio and had it last, on a boat?


I have, no pics though, I'll get some from the owner at some point, they are doing great. 8 years now, most people don't even keep a boat for 8 years  

One reason is because they are designed to be used in harsh environments they use materials that don't corrode as easily either.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

Do you have any links to these covering to shed water? Sounds interesting.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

sjr033 said:


> Do you have any links to these covering to shed water? Sounds interesting.


I'll try to find some soonish... It's really open foam like stuff, akin to what they used on 78/80's hifi speakers but made of amazingly durable UV resistant stuff. Water runs out of it before it makes it through.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

chad said:


> I have, no pics though, I'll get some from the owner at some point, they are doing great. 8 years now, most people don't even keep a boat for 8 years
> 
> One reason is because they are designed to be used in harsh environments they use materials that don't corrode as easily either.


Many people may not keep their boat that long, but those probably don't live on a lake. I have owned my for 6yrs and live on a lake. So it gets used at least 3 days a week weather permitting. I am also in the planning stages of a stereo for extended play time for the sand bar.
I am interested in what was used, even if you don't have pics.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Like this stuff: 26'' x 23'' x .39'' Foam Speaker Grill Material | LS00904 | Distributed By MCM

And, it's in Europe but it's 25mm thick, rock. Speaker front charcoal foam 25mm thick - 2m x 1m sheet Sheet size: 200cm x 100cm

You can form fit it inside a horn throat nicely without packing it to protect the driver too. many put it over a steel grille but loosely sandwiching it between metal makes it uber durable but behind metal (like powder coated) will protect the foam and driver from crazy flying flip-flops.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

we used 2 JBL 2118J's and a JBL 2416H on their "butt cheek" horn, screw on per side. If you wanted you could probably mate a ring radiator on a smaller horn to those mids. Low end was 4X 2226H VGC 15's tuned to around 40-45IIRC. loud was the goal. Good sized boat though, the sub cabs are bigass.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Well I think I'm going with the two kicker L5 subs and a ssl 4000w amp. Then a ssl 1000w amp for the 4 5.25" coaxials. Should I get some tweeters along with this setup or will the coaxials do fine amplified? I still dont know what coaxials I'm going with.... Any help?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Don't put the subs in a tiny enclosure as one would in a car, use modeling software as there is no transfer function on a boat... An impressive sub system in a car will NOT be impresive on a boat.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

How you going to be using the stereo? Are trying to hear it over the engine when underway? Are you parking it a sand bar with the engine off? I would use the largest coaxials that you can fit. As for your amps, remember the charging system on the boat is worse than a car. So a class D would prob be best.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

sjr033 said:


> As for your amps, remember the charging system on the boat is worse than a car. So a class D would prob be best.


Amen, it will also save the battery when stopped, one may want to look into a second battery with isolation, chances are you don't have a rope start and push starting a boat sucks


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

chad said:


> Amen, it will also save the battery when stopped, one may want to look into a second battery with isolation, chances are you don't have a rope start and push starting a boat sucks


After limping through a few years at the sand bar, my new stereo will use class D amp, 2nd battery and a large solar charger. Note: I can pull start, but it is no fun when the party is still going and the music is not.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Let me know how the solar thing goes, last I looked into it the efficiency sucked. But it's been a long while....

My high current 12V rig at home was solar and the panels were large and plentiful, certainly not boatable unless you wanna be labeled as a total geek. Sold it off a while back to a treehugger that just had to have it.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Lol thanks guys.
I'm going for both jammin at 50mph and while at a sand bar.
I do have a second battery to isolate for the audio. Might get a 3rd depending on how crazy I get with this. 
I already have 2 5.25 holes for speakers and was going to cut holes in the bow for two more. Hell Im already cutting up my boat I could just go bigger then 5.25 up front....


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

I was planning to use a Perko dual battery switch. Basically, I will run battery A until it is dead. Then switch to battery B. And hopefully the solar charger will bring battery A back enough to get us home. My biggest obstacle now is choosing a battery that I can get 3 hours play time with, for a total of 6.


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## sjr033 (Dec 30, 2011)

Matt_g said:


> Lol thanks guys.
> I'm going for both jammin at 50mph and while at a sand bar.
> I do have a second battery to isolate for the audio. Might get a 3rd depending on how crazy I get with this.
> I already have 2 5.25 holes for speakers and was going to cut holes in the bow for two more. Hell Im already cutting up my boat I could just go bigger then 5.25 up front....


Like I said bigger the better. My setup will prob be 4- 6-1/2" in the front and 2- 6"x9" in the back.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

I'm going to talk to a Memphis dealer in town tomorrow and see what he would do for me. Who knows...


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Clear your inbox... got some help for ya.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Pm sent your way


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## pimpmyboat (Jul 26, 2011)

Go for as much cone area as possible!. these guys hit it right on the money with the efficiency and everything, class d amps for sure. id also probly go coax in a boat. Boat installs are awesome


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## sirvent_95 (Feb 14, 2011)

chad said:


> Because it never ever rains at concerts


Nice.


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## sirvent_95 (Feb 14, 2011)

I've had decent results with some bazooka tubes under the consoles. I know, Bazooka tubes aren't ideal but they're efficient and cheap.

Don't forget how susceptible MDF is to moisture if you build an enclosure. Might want to spring for Pressure Treated or Marine Ply for an enclosure.


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Yeah I looked into the tubes but had no idea what kind of output they had. I ended up buying a 10" JL marine sub in a sealed MDF box and a TMA amp off Craigslist today. 

Im thinking about building a fiberglass enclosure for the JL now...


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## Matt_g (Feb 26, 2012)

Alright I think I have my battery problem solved. I did some research and found out my alternator only puts out 20a max. So, adding another battery to the charging system is a no go.

How would getting two high AH rated 6v golf cart batteries wired into a series making 12v work for powering strictly the audio? I would get an onboard charger and plug it in whenever Im done using it that day. I dont know any other option as I cant add onto the existing system. 

Any ideas?


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