# DSP Tuning Using REW. A Basic Starters Guide



## SkizeR

So for months now i have been getting tons of messages from various people asking me for help about setting up their processors and where to start with tuning. I figured it was finally time to just make a video showing one of many methods to tune. I find this method the easiest for beginners. This is by no way, shape, or form the end all be all. This is just a guide for the basics of EQ'ing your speakers using the parametric eq in your DSP.

First things first. This does not cover crossovers or (much of) time alignment. Check out Kyle Ragsdales video series for that. This just covers what to do after those are set.

For this guide to work, you must set your crossovers electrically the same all using LR -24DB slopes, and time alignment must be set by distance. Use this website to make that last part easy..

http://tracerite.com/calc.html



Gear needed:

1) a processor with parametric eq. this guide will not work for graphic eq. 

2) Room EQ Wizard. Its free. Search it and download it

3) A USB Microphone, like the Dayton UMM6 or Minidsp UMIK. 

4) A laptop to do your tuning and measurements on




So let me break down the steps via text just in case.

1) set crossovers and TA by distance

2) mute all drivers except for the one you want to measure first

3) measure with mono pink noise. save measurement

4) upload a house curve, then go to REW's Auto EQ tab.

5) set your parameters and target. Match response to target

6) use your parametric eq to copy the filters that REW gives you

7) re-measure to double check. repeat steps 3, 5, and 6 if necessary to match house curve

8) mute that driver and move to next. Repeat steps 3, 5, 6, and 7

9) take the same measurement but with both drivers playing. Determine what is causing any issues if there are any. adjust accordingly

10) Move onto the next pair of drivers and repeat measurements and adjustments

11) Double check by ear

12) adjust TA by ear


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## AyOne

Thanks for the info. Now I just wish my mic would work.


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## Niebur3

Very nice!!!


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## Extended Power

One of these days....when the doors are finally done....I can start doing some of these cool tuning procedures.
Thanks for the info!


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## nineball76

I'm going back to the old days. Head unit high pass, amps bandpass. 3 bands eq. Stage wider than my mirrors. 

Good info here! Some day I hope to put this to use. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## USS Enterprise

Awesome writeup and vid. This should help many many users get dialed in. Thanks for your time and effort!


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## nineball76

Ok this got me motivated to actually download some software to see how things work. I see what you've been saying about the helix software being the best. I didn't mind the h800 software before, but tonight I also downloaded the Mosconi 8to12 tool and holy **** it sucks. I'm hoping when I get around to actually tuning that I can set it and forget it. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR

nineball76 said:


> Ok this got me motivated to actually download some software to see how things work. I see what you've been saying about the helix software being the best. I didn't mind the h800 software before, but tonight I also downloaded the Mosconi 8to12 tool and holy **** it sucks. I'm hoping when I get around to actually tuning that I can set it and forget it.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


you got the mosconi before actually trying the software?


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## nineball76

SkizeR said:


> you got the mosconi before actually trying the software?


No. Just thinking about getting the 8to12. Would prefer to have the extra channels and 192 Coax input. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## nineball76

I've got a Ps8, and it has coax but it's limited to 96khz. I know I know. But the extra channels would really be great for the huge cab of my Ram. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## truckguy

Thanks for taking the time to put this together!


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## naiku

Decided to give this a try this evening, for now I just ran the EQ against individual speakers. It's hot in the garage and I did not want to sit out there any longer (or sit there with the engine running). Started with my left tweeter, sure enough after changing the EQ to what REW suggested the house curve and my response matched almost perfectly. Happy with that I moved onto the right tweeter. 

Here though, the measured response with the microphone and what REW suggested seemed really odd. These pictures show the EQ settings from REW, along with an after picture of the response vs house curve.



















Both mids and mid bass also measured with similar jagged responses. The weird thing is when done with all of them, I gave things a listen and it did not sound bad at all. So, I am not sure exactly if the microphone was not working correctly, or if something else is up. Will revisit hopefully sometime over the weekend.

Thanks for the video OP, it is very helpful. Especially the parametric EQ in the Helix, had no idea about that. I do now wish I could import like with a MiniDSP!! haha. Hoping you are still able to make it to the meet next month, I may hand you the keys, a laptop and a microphone, then watch and learn.


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## nineball76

SkizeR said:


> you got the mosconi before actually trying the software?


Is there not even separate left and right eq? Only grouped by 3, front, rear, 11-12. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR

nineball76 said:


> Is there not even separate left and right eq? Only grouped by 3, front, rear, 11-12.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


There's left/right. Just a pain to use

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## Hammer1

nineball76 said:


> Ok this got me motivated to actually download some software to see how things work. I see what you've been saying about the helix software being the best. I didn't mind the h800 software before, but tonight I also downloaded the Mosconi 8to12 tool and holy **** it sucks. I'm hoping when I get around to actually tuning that I can set it and forget it.
> 
> Mosconi is working on new software and I have been told by Mosconi that it will be out by June. And the old software will auto update to the new software.
> 
> Dear Tom,
> thank you for your e-mail.
> At the moment the GUI software is only a modified version from the old GUI.
> We work on a new version with more features and a different, easier way to use,
> but this needs time, please stay tuned.
> The current GUI is equipped with an auto update feature, so when we launch a new version you
> will get this information automatically. (your computer must be connected with the internet)
> 
> 
> Cordiali Saluti / Kind Regards
> Diego Tinti


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## Telly_Tilt

this is so weird... earlier i was going to ask you guys where is a thread or a site that could point me in the right direction as far as getting started with RTA tuning. 

I have the UMM 6 mic and i have REW installed on my laptop for a couple weeks now.

I think I've seen enough to get started on my next off day on wednesday.

thanks SkizeR!


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## SkizeR

naiku said:


> So, I am not sure exactly if the microphone was not working correctly, or if something else is up. Will revisit hopefully sometime over the weekend.
> 
> Thanks for the video OP, it is very helpful. Especially the parametric EQ in the Helix, had no idea about that. I do now wish I could import like with a MiniDSP!! haha. Hoping you are still able to make it to the meet next month, I may hand you the keys, a laptop and a microphone, then watch and learn.



like i said in the video, its not always perfect and sometimes it doesnt give you a good old "wtf is wrong with this thing". what i usually do when that happens and im using this method is wipe all the settings (yeah i know.. oh well), close rew, and start over with a different target level (so it gives a different combination of filters). most of the time i usually do auto eq once, then double check, then do the rest manually unlike in my video. i wish i knew of a way to get a house curve template to appear in the rta app window


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## SkizeR

nineball76 said:


> Is there not even separate left and right eq? Only grouped by 3, front, rear, 11-12.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


just remembered, you MIGHT have to unlink them in the crossover section of the software to unlock the left/right eq


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## Telly_Tilt

Here is a serious n00b question...

while testing each speaker, is the mic in the regular listening position near driver's head for all the drivers or is it up close to each speaker?

Also, does it make a difference at what volume lever the pink noise should be?

Thanks.


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## SkizeR

Telly_Tilt said:


> Here is a serious n00b question...
> 
> while testing each speaker, is the mic in the regular listening position near driver's head for all the drivers or is it up close to each speaker?
> 
> Also, does it make a difference at what volume lever the pink noise should be?
> 
> Thanks.


both of those mentioned in the video 

measure around your ears, not in one spot. i circle around one ear 4 or 5 times, then move to the next and circle that one 4 or 5 times, and repeat until im about 100 averages

measure at your desired listening volume


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## nineball76

SkizeR said:


> just remembered, you MIGHT have to unlink them in the crossover section of the software to unlock the left/right eq


I unlinked all lines in the filter and it shows them separate I think in the para section but I can't see how to actually adjust them individually. 

This software is crap. I can see it being ok for a single backyard diy'er who is a set it and forget it person. But if I were an installer/tuner, I'd be pissed if everyone was bringing mosconi to get tuned. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## nineball76

Hammers said:


> nineball76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok this got me motivated to actually download some software to see how things work. I see what you've been saying about the helix software being the best. I didn't mind the h800 software before, but tonight I also downloaded the Mosconi 8to12 tool and holy **** it sucks. I'm hoping when I get around to actually tuning that I can set it and forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> Mosconi is working on new software and I have been told by Mosconi that it will be out by June. And the old software will auto update to the new software.
> 
> Dear Tom,
> thank you for your e-mail.
> At the moment the GUI software is only a modified version from the old GUI.
> We work on a new version with more features and a different, easier way to use,
> but this needs time, please stay tuned.
> The current GUI is equipped with an auto update feature, so when we launch a new version you
> will get this information automatically. (your computer must be connected with the internet)
> 
> 
> Cordiali Saluti / Kind Regards
> Diego Tinti
Click to expand...

That's good news I hope. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## Hammer1

It is very easy to eq left and right channels. I see your in Portland I can come show you how the software works


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## nineball76

Hammer1 said:


> It is very easy to eq left and right channels. I see your in Portland I can come show you how the software works


I'm rarely in Oregon. I work out of state. 

Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


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## Marky

nineball76 said:


> I'm rarely in Oregon. I work out of state.
> 
> Sent from my LG-V20 using Tapatalk


Might want to change location then to:
Portland, Or ( Almost Never)


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## truckguy

SkizeR said:


> i wish i knew of a way to get a house curve template to appear in the rta app window


Is this what you are trying to do. In REW, go to File and select Import Frequency Response. Select the target curve you want to show in RTA. You will get a pop up message. Select NO. This will put your selected target curve in a tab that you can see in the All SPL view. While in this view go to Contols. In there, you will see a drop down list of Measurement Offsets. Select your target curve and apply an offset value so it shows close to whatever you are measuring in RTA. If you do a quick measurement first you can then match the target curve to it. The RTA window will bring in your last measurement so make sure you have the target curve you selected. Go into RTA and it should be there for you. Change you averages to none and tune to match the target curve. You may have to mess around with the offset a little to get it exactly where you want it. Up or down a db. 

If you need individual speaker curves you can use jazzis software that builds those for you. Then import them all as mentioned above and measure each speaker in RTA if you want to go route. 

I'm really liking the tips in the video and have been playing around quite a bit the last few days. It's been a lot of fun and have been getting pretty good results! Nothing near a final tune but it's really made things faster for getting a good starting point.


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## Telly_Tilt

ok. i tried using REW for the first time today and i'm definitely NOT doing something right. 

i wanted to start with my sub woofer. i took the measurement and i thought i set everything right.

when i clicked on EQ Filters, no settings popped up.

i'm sure it's something like some wrong info i put in or something stupid like that.

don't beat me up too hard guys, i'm totally green as far as this tuning stuff goes, but i want to learn. :blush:

here are a couple screen caps...


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## brumledb

Telly_Tilt said:


> ok. i tried using REW for the first time today and i'm definitely NOT doing something right.
> 
> i wanted to start with my sub woofer. i took the measurement and i thought i set everything right.
> 
> when i clicked on EQ Filters, no settings popped up.
> 
> i'm sure it's something like some wrong info i put in or something stupid like that.
> 
> don't beat me up too hard guys, i'm totally green as far as this tuning stuff goes, but i want to learn. :blush:
> 
> here are a couple screen caps...




After you got everything setup did you push the "match response to target" button?


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## Telly_Tilt

i used these specs that Babs came up with in this thread Optimal RTA curve "template" and i copied it to a microsoft notepad doc and used that as my house curve.

i hope i did this correctly. 


20	15
25	14.5
31	13.5
40	12.5
50	11.25
63	9.5
80	7.75
100	6.25
125	4.75
160	3.5
200	2.5
250	1.75
315	1.25
400	0.8
500	0.5
630	0.25
800	0.15
1000	0.1
1200	0
1600	0
2000	-0.1
2500	-0.2
3100	-0.3
4000	-0.4
5000	-0.6
6300	-0.8
8000	-1.3
10000 -1.8
12000 -2.5
16000 -3.2
20000 -4


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## Telly_Tilt

brumledb said:


> After you got everything setup did you push the "match response to target" button?


yes,

it said that 79% of the response in the match range is below the target.

i didn't set some number right somewhere, i'd bet.


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## brumledb

Telly_Tilt said:


> yes,
> 
> it said that 79% of the response in the match range is below the target.
> 
> i didn't set some number right somewhere, i'd bet.


When you got that window, did you select Ok or Cancel? You have to select Ok.


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## Telly_Tilt

brumledb said:


> When you got that window, did you select Ok or Cancel? You have to select Ok.


when i set the target level to 61.5db, it gives me a setting for only 1 filter...


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## SkizeR

you want to drop your target level to mostly below your measured response. or else you will have to boost to match, which rew wont do because you set your max overall boost to 2db. also, 61db seems a bit on the low side. are you measuring at your usual listening volume?


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## Telly_Tilt

SkizeR said:


> you want to drop your target level to mostly below your measured response. or else you will have to boost to match, which rew wont do because you set your max overall boost to 2db. also, 61db seems a bit on the low side. are you measuring at your usual listening volume?



i measured at a moderate but still at a pretty loud level. 

i measured with the HU at number 23 out of 35 level.

the max i like to listen is 27 or 28 without a hint of distortion.

...plus, with EQs all set flat, the sub is louder than the EQ setting that i have for the sub normally (that i set by ear).

i will try again tomorrow at maybe 25 or 26 and see how it goes.

can u guys read those settings settings i have... do they look decent?

i'm thinking that i have something not set right.


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## brumledb

2 things:

1. Lower you target level setting. Try to get it so that the target curve is intersecting your measured response at about 30hz. Right now it is intersecting at about 70hz. 

2. Change the match frequency response to 30hz instead of 20hz. You sub is falling off severely at 30hz. Right now you are telling REW to correct the FR all the way down to 20hz which it can't do because of all the boost it would need. This is also why you need to lower your target curve to where it is intersecting at 30hz. Right now you are trying to force REW to boost 30-50hz. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fcarpio

Nice tutorial, thank you for taking the time to put it together. A couple of things I would like to add.

1 - For the "target level" I measure both, left and right drivers (tweeters, mid and subs separately) and I use the option to tell REW to set the target level. Chances are your target levels are going to be different for L and R, so I always pick the lowest of the two for both sides. The reason I do this is because that would also match the levels between L and R after the AutoEQ is done.

2 - After you get the parameters from the AutoEQ you enter the frequencies with the Qs and the levels. Some of us (including myself) are not lucky to have a parametric EQ that can take custom frequencies. My parametric EQ has fixed frequencies. What I do is the same as you, but after I get the AutoEQ parameters I try to closely match the frequencies I get from AutoEQ to what my parametric EQ offers, enter them in the AutoEQ parameter screen and re-run AutoEQ with the option to "optimize gains and Qs" only, that way it uses the frequencies I provided to generate the AutoEQ parameters. This creates a slightly different recommendation that works better for my situation.


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## Telly_Tilt

SkizeR said:


> you want to drop your target level to mostly below your measured response. or else you will have to boost to match, which rew wont do because you set your max overall boost to 2db. also, 61db seems a bit on the low side. are you measuring at your usual listening volume?





brumledb said:


> 2 things:
> 
> 1. Lower you target level setting. Try to get it so that the target curve is intersecting your measured response at about 30hz. Right now it is intersecting at about 70hz.
> 
> 2. Change the match frequency response to 30hz instead of 20hz. You sub is falling off severely at 30hz. Right now you are telling REW to correct the FR all the way down to 20hz which it can't do because of all the boost it would need. This is also why you need to lower your target curve to where it is intersecting at 30hz. Right now you are trying to force REW to boost 30-50hz.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ok, i lowered my target level to 54.5 db and now i have a suggestion of 3 filters! 

i think later this evening i will measure again with the volume louder this time and try again.

does the 3 band suggestion sound normal or should i lower the target level even lower?

thanks for ALL of your input guys!


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## SkizeR

What resolution are you measuring in? Looks way to smoothed out, like its measured at 1/1 octave

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## Telly_Tilt

sorry SkizeR, i'm so new to this, i'm not sure what you mean by resolution.

...please forgive my lack of knowledge. :embarassed:


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## brumledb

And I would still change the lower end of the Match Range to 30hz instead of 20hz. Just simply because there is no way you are going to match it to 20hz and in my experience REW works much better without having a region of the match response so wildly off target. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Telly_Tilt

brumledb said:


> And I would still change the lower end of the Match Range to 30hz instead of 20hz. Just simply because there is no way you are going to match it to 20hz and in my experience REW works much better without having a region of the match response so wildly off target.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ok, cool.

it might be because i have a high pass on my sub of 28hz.

it's a ported 10" and it was suggested to me 10 years ago when i bought it to set an infrasonic filter on it. i'm not sure if that's too high of a setting or not.

maybe i should set the hp to 20hz just to take the reading... 

thanks.


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## Grinder

Thank you, SkizeR! This is just what I'll need to get up to speed with my new miniDSP 2x4 and UMIK1.


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## SkizeR

Grinder said:


> Thank you, SkizeR! This is just what I'll need to get up to speed with my new miniDSP 2x4 and UMIK1.


no problem


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## Telly_Tilt

i just went thru all 7 drivers only one time because i didn't have time to do the complete tune up.

i set the suggested filter settings and man, did it make my Focals sound like i was in a concert hall!


...and my stealthbox subwoofer... all i can say is wow!

that REW is a really nice program!

i will have time in a few more days to really dial them in!

thanks to everyone for all of your help!


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## truckguy

truckguy said:


> Is this what you are trying to do. In REW, go to File and select Import Frequency Response. Select the target curve you want to show in RTA. You will get a pop up message. Select NO. This will put your selected target curve in a tab that you can see in the All SPL view. While in this view go to Contols. In there, you will see a drop down list of Measurement Offsets. Select your target curve and apply an offset value so it shows close to whatever you are measuring in RTA. If you do a quick measurement first you can then match the target curve to it. The RTA window will bring in your last measurement so make sure you have the target curve you selected. Go into RTA and it should be there for you. Change you averages to none and tune to match the target curve. You may have to mess around with the offset a little to get it exactly where you want it. Up or down a db.
> 
> If you need individual speaker curves you can use jazzis software that builds those for you. Then import them all as mentioned above and measure each speaker in RTA if you want to go route.
> 
> I'm really liking the tips in the video and have been playing around quite a bit the last few days. It's been a lot of fun and have been getting pretty good results! Nothing near a final tune but it's really made things faster for getting a good starting point.


I donated to REW today and added a message about how it would be nice to use a current measurement as a target curve in EQ. John M replied and said this could be done by exporting the measurement as text. Then you can add it back as your target curve! I haven't had a chance to try it yet but man it will be cool if that works. Set up one side the best you can to the main target curve and then save it off. Then use that to match the other side. For me, my midbass is a mess with the normal nulls around 125hz on left and 200hz on the right because of the center console. I'm anxious to use autoeq to see if it'll help me match up those areas on each side a little better.


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## Telly_Tilt

It looks like you're using any band for any filter as you input the Auto EQ settings in the parametric equalizer, correct?

So even though you're making changes to high frequency settings for a tweeter for instance, you start with the bands all the way to the left (low frequency filters) because it doesn't make a difference when you manually input the frequencies?

Also, when you measure the same driver again and add more EQ settings, it looks like you don't change the existing settings and you just enter the new settings in the filters next to the ones that you previously set... or am I looking at it wrong?

Thanks.


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## Babs

Telly_Tilt said:


> It looks like you're using any band for any filter as you input the Auto EQ settings in the parametric equalizer, correct?
> 
> So even though you're making changes to high frequency settings for a tweeter for instance, you start with the bands all the way to the left (low frequency filters) because it doesn't make a difference when you manually input the frequencies?
> 
> Also, when you measure the same driver again and add more EQ settings, it looks like you don't change the existing settings and you just enter the new settings in the filters next to the ones that you previously set... or am I looking at it wrong?
> 
> Thanks.


I do this as well mainly so I can keep my initial individual driver EQ separate from pairs or group EQ, so I can revert back or at least easily see the individual driver EQ vs tonality EQ. For mid-bass I'll do the EQ up high, outside the pass band, and for mids, I'll start at band #2 etc. Then when I do final tonality work, I'll use the bands within the driver for work close to those bands in graphic mode, just adjusting Q and level and freq as necessary. That said though, what I've not tried yet is using input EQ on the Helix for the final tonality work. Would like to give that a shot, if I don't do something crazy, put an APL1 in there, do mic sweeps then say "go!"


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## Telly_Tilt

Babs said:


> I do this as well mainly so I can keep my initial individual driver EQ separate from pairs or group EQ, so I can revert back or at least easily see the individual driver EQ vs tonality EQ. For mid-bass I'll do the EQ up high, outside the pass band, and for mids, I'll start at band #2 etc. Then when I do final tonality work, I'll use the bands within the driver for work close to those bands in graphic mode, just adjusting Q and level and freq as necessary. That said though, what I've not tried yet is using input EQ on the Helix for the final tonality work. Would like to give that a shot, if I don't do something crazy, put an APL1 in there, do mic sweeps then say "go!"


ha ha ha!

thanks for that input!

yeah, i've been reading up on that APL1 and it sounds like it could make an excellent sounding system sound extraordinary!


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## SkizeR

a few people have requested. might as well post it publicly. all test tracks that i mentioned in the video should be in here. 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-U-8i9on99ZZkRwVVItZ0hMSVk


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## Telly_Tilt

Thank you!


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## 1sty

How do you approach using REW if you have a component set with mids in the doors and tweeters in the pillars?
Do you measure the distance to both and then average them for the time alignment starting point?
Would you still attempt to EQ each driver separately or EQ the pair with both drivers playing?


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## SkizeR

1sty said:


> How do you approach using REW if you have a component set with mids in the doors and tweeters in the pillars?
> Do you measure the distance to both and then average them for the time alignment starting point?
> Would you still attempt to EQ each driver separately or EQ the pair with both drivers playing?


So your using a passive crossover? Do you still have a dsp? It really all depends on the rest of the equipment. For passive, I would time align the mids. Then eq left vs right

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## drop1

Active or passive crossovers?
I run passives with mids in the doors, tweets on the pillars.

Volume matters more than ta when it comes to tweeters.
Line up your mids with the ta then use leveling on the tweeters to center them on the mids. 
I eq them as whole.
Now active you can ta all speakers Individually and I would eq each driver separately.


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## drop1

SkizeR said:


> So your using a passive crossover? Do you still have a dsp? It really all depends on the rest of the equipment. For passive, I would time align the mids. Then eq left vs right
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


You beat me by seconds!


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## 1sty

Yes, Polk audio SR6500s run passive with a JL audio Twek88.

Also how do you measure the distance for TA to subwoofers firing backward in the trunk?


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## SkizeR

1sty said:


> Yes, Polk audio SR6500s run passive with a JL audio Twek88.
> 
> Also how do you measure the distance for TA to subwoofers firing backward in the trunk?


With a tape measure

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## falcon

Stupid question, but does it matter if I play the pink noise through my iPod that is fed into my Helix through toslink? I am trying to avoid feeding directly from the software into my factory head unit because of the built in HPF.


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## SkizeR

falcon said:


> Stupid question, but does it matter if I play the pink noise through my iPod that is fed into my Helix through toslink? I am trying to avoid feeding directly from the software into my factory head unit because of the built in HPF.


if you plan on using the radio as your usual source, i would run it through the radio. if you plan on always using your ipad/toslink to play music then do it that way


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## falcon

I have a several questions (please don't hate me):

1) How do you know what the optimal target level setting is? Is this more trial and error, or is there another method?

2) Is this setting different for the tweeters, mids, etc., or should you keep it consistent across all drivers? The genesis of the question is that while keeping my source at the same volume, I used about 75db for the tweeters, but that was way above the mids, which I took down to 65db. When running the overall curve at the end, the tweeters were much higher in volume. Which relates to...

3) Is it better to set the target level for all drivers the same (as asked in question 2), or just do what I have described and turn down the tweeters by cutting the channel gain at the end?

4) After EQ'ing tweeters, for level matching do you just cut the volume of one until the lines are fairly close to one another? If so, do you do more EQ after that? Would it be done on individual drivers, or as a pair?

5) After the individual tweeters (or mids, or subs) are EQ'd and level matched, do you run RTA of them together and then EQ as a pair?

6) When I run the Auto EQ, I seem to get some strange results. As a hypothetical, I'll get a suggested filter to cut 500hz by 6db, but to increase 525hz by 5 db. The Q's suggested seem to mostly (but not totally) cancel each of these adjustments out. Is it best to ignore these, or to input as suggested?

7) If I have my tweeters crossed at 3500hz and my mids at 80hz to 3500hz, what settings should I run for these?

8) When you guys talk about tuning for tonality, what does that mean exactly (sorry, I am really new to this)?

9) When using the bursts for TA, when you talk about "centering up" I assume that just means adjust until the sound is right in front of you?


----------



## SkizeR

falcon said:


> I have a several questions (please don't hate me):
> 
> 1) How do you know what the optimal target level setting is? Is this more trial and error, or is there another method?
> 
> 2) Is this setting different for the tweeters, mids, etc., or should you keep it consistent across all drivers? The genesis of the question is that while keeping my source at the same volume, I used about 75db for the tweeters, but that was way above the mids, which I took down to 65db. When running the overall curve at the end, the tweeters were much higher in volume. Which relates to...
> 
> 3) Is it better to set the target level for all drivers the same (as asked in question 2), or just do what I have described and turn down the tweeters by cutting the channel gain at the end?
> 
> 4) After EQ'ing tweeters, for level matching do you just cut the volume of one until the lines are fairly close to one another? If so, do you do more EQ after that? Would it be done on individual drivers, or as a pair?
> 
> 5) After the individual tweeters (or mids, or subs) are EQ'd and level matched, do you run RTA of them together and then EQ as a pair?
> 
> 6) When I run the Auto EQ, I seem to get some strange results. As a hypothetical, I'll get a suggested filter to cut 500hz by 6db, but to increase 525hz by 5 db. The Q's suggested seem to mostly (but not totally) cancel each of these adjustments out. Is it best to ignore these, or to input as suggested?
> 
> 7) If I have my tweeters crossed at 3500hz and my mids at 80hz to 3500hz, what settings should I run for these?
> 
> 8) When you guys talk about tuning for tonality, what does that mean exactly (sorry, I am really new to this)?
> 
> 9) When using the bursts for TA, when you talk about "centering up" I assume that just means adjust until the sound is right in front of you?


1) I usually just match it as closely as possibly without any major dips below the line. Pay attention to the crossover region also. The measured response and target will usually be pretty close when setting the target level

2) I set it individually for each driver then level match after

3) see answer 2

4) you got it.. Cut until matched. Then after theyre eq's individually and level matched I measure and eq as a pair.

5) after I eq as pair I check left side vs right side, as well as all playing to make sure there are no funky things going on like phase issues at the crossover.

6) input as suggested if your not sure why it's suggesting what it's suggesting. Once you start to learn the ins and outs you will start to see why it makes some suggestions. All it is is an algorithm that matches the measured response to the target with the parameters you have set with the least amount of filters as possible.

7) 60-5500 and 2000-20k is what I would run for the match region

8) I'm not sure what they mean. Sounds subjective to me

9) center is not in front of you. That is left of center. Center is the physical center between the two speakers, or the center of the stage. The former is much easier to figure out, and theyre usually close anyway. Also, I use band limited pink noise bursts to verify eq. I use impulse "pops" to verify Ta. 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## falcon

SkizeR said:


> 1) I usually just match it as closely as possibly without any major dips below the line. Pay attention to the crossover region also. The measured response and target will usually be pretty close when setting the target level
> 
> 2) I set it individually for each driver then level match after
> 
> 3) see answer 2
> 
> 4) you got it.. Cut until matched. Then after theyre eq's individually and level matched I measure and eq as a pair.
> 
> 5) after I eq as pair I check left side vs right side, as well as all playing to make sure there are no funky things going on like phase issues at the crossover.
> 
> 6) input as suggested if your not sure why it's suggesting what it's suggesting. Once you start to learn the ins and outs you will start to see why it makes some suggestions. All it is is an algorithm that matches the measured response to the target with the parameters you have set with the least amount of filters as possible.
> 
> 7) 60-5500 and 2000-20k is what I would run for the match region
> 
> 8) I'm not sure what they mean. Sounds subjective to me
> 
> 9) center is not in front of you. That is left of center. Center is the physical center between the two speakers, or the center of the stage. The former is much easier to figure out, and theyre usually close anyway. Also, I use band limited pink noise bursts to verify eq. I use impulse "pops" to verify Ta.
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


Thanks so much. I am sure that more questions will arise as I continue this arduous learning process. I've spent hours doing this already and every result has been worse that simple crossovers and TA only!

As a follow up to two items you mentioned:

4) After the individual drivers are EQ'd, and then measured as a pair...the EQ'ing done after the pair measurement...do you link the pair somehow to EQ together? I am using Helix.

9) So for using impulse pops to verify TA...should we be aiming for the pops to sound in the center of the car, or directly in front of you (assuming you are optmizing for the driver). I am confused by what you wrote.

Thanks again.


----------



## SkizeR

falcon said:


> Thanks so much. I am sure that more questions will arise as I continue this arduous learning process. I've spent hours doing this already and every result has been worse that simple crossovers and TA only!
> 
> As a follow up to two items you mentioned:
> 
> 4) After the individual drivers are EQ'd, and then measured as a pair...the EQ'ing done after the pair measurement...do you link the pair somehow to EQ together? I am using Helix.
> 
> 9) So for using impulse pops to verify TA...should we be aiming for the pops to sound in the center of the car, or directly in front of you (assuming you are optmizing for the driver). I am confused by what you wrote.
> 
> Thanks again.


4) you can. Theres another video on my youtubr channel showing how.

9) center of the car, physical center between the two speakers. Pretty much right under the rear view mirror. 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## dcfis

Can you give some info on why you want the mids to try to go to 5500? Should there be overlap between the mids and tweets?


----------



## SkizeR

dcfis said:


> Can you give some info on why you want the mids to try to go to 5500? Should there be overlap between the mids and tweets?


You want to eq well outside the crossover. Your not eqing them flat to 5k, your eqing them to match the roll off of the crossover well into the stop band. This prevents all sorts of ****ery in the crossover regions.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## dcfis

Alright, I've been reading a bit about that. am i correct that you are suggesting rew eq range and not physical crossover points of the mids and tweets tweets?


----------



## falcon

SkizeR said:


> 4) you can. Theres another video on my youtubr channel showing how.
> 
> 9) center of the car, physical center between the two speakers. Pretty much right under the rear view mirror.
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


In response to 9):

Is this where the sound should end up only when using the pops? If I use a demo disk with a vocal track that says the vocals should be "dead center" does that mean right in front of the drivers seat (I am trying to optimize for the driver), or does that also mean right under the mirror?

New question...I am getting enormous dips exactly where the LPF and HPF crossovers are set on the mids. I thought this was a TA issue, but I guess I was wrong. (I did measure at the beginning for TA and thought it was pretty good.) I moved all kinds of TA just to see if there would be an improvement but nothing. I have had other tunes in this car without the dips, so I don't think it's a cabin issue. I am running LR crossovers at 24db slopes.

What are some potential solutions?


----------



## SkizeR

Center is never directly in front of the driver unless your driving a McLaren f1. 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


----------



## falcon

SkizeR said:


> Center is never directly in front of the driver unless your driving a McLaren f1.
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


That's what I have


----------



## smgreen20

Bump


----------



## stickybeak

May I ask what or where could I get a copy of "house curve"? TIA!


----------



## McKrakken

stickybeak said:


> May I ask what or where could I get a copy of "house curve"? TIA!


I had this same question last night. Best I could come up with was with a Google search is a JBL house curve that someone had posted. I'd be curious to know if this is the same curve Skizer used for his video.

To make the file, I created a .txt file and pasted the information below. I saved the file and was able to access it through REW.

The data I used:

JBL Overall House Curve
20 9
25 9
31 9
40 9
50 9
63 9
80 6.5
100 4.25
125 2
160 0
200 0
250 0
315 0
400 0
500 0
630 0
800 0
1000 0
1200 0
1600 0
2000 0
2500 0
3100 0
4000 -1
5000 -2
6300 -3
8000 -4
10000 -5
12000 -6
16000 -6
20000 -6


----------



## falcon

You can also download Jazzi's tuning companion for some curves. I happen to love the Whitledge curve.


----------



## McKrakken

falcon said:


> You can also download Jazzi's tuning companion for some curves. I happen to love the Whitledge curve.


Where can you get Jazzi's tuning companion?? it's not in his signature anymore.


----------



## naiku

McKrakken said:


> Where can you get Jazzi's tuning companion?? it's not in his signature anymore.


If you can't find a link to it, shoot me a PM and I will get you a copy.


----------



## McKrakken

naiku said:


> If you can't find a link to it, shoot me a PM and I will get you a copy.


Thanks! PM incoming!


----------



## JH1973

A tip that Nick told me that was an aha moment was that if your PEQ only has limited filters for each channel(mine has only 6)then it is best to measure and EQ using 1/3 smoothing.This way you're attacking the "obvious" areas that need it and maximizing what you have.......that being said I can definitely see a Helix in my future...


----------



## Babs

JH1973 said:


> A tip that Nick told me that was an aha moment was that if your PEQ only has limited filters for each channel(mine has only 6)then it is best to measure and EQ using 1/3 smoothing.This way you're attacking the "obvious" areas that need it and maximizing what you have.......that being said I can definitely see a Helix in my future...


Yeah if you're working with limited parametric EQ per channels, approach with broad strokes. That said though, if you've got 6 bands of fully parametric for each channel, you should be able to hit pretty darn close to perfect for most all typical bandwidth regions in a car setup unless you've got a really crazy wide widebander or something like that you're working with. Parametric done right is kind of a challenge with goal being to get it there on as few of good parametric EQ trims as possible. Hit the big shaping stuff first, then the biggest of the little peaks that would be audible if you've got the bands left to work with. There is something to be said for having that 1/6 or 1/12 octave data to work with in mind, but typically working with 1/3 octave is just fine.


----------



## JH1973

Babs said:


> JH1973 said:
> 
> 
> 
> A tip that Nick told me that was an aha moment was that if your PEQ only has limited filters for each channel(mine has only 6)then it is best to measure and EQ using 1/3 smoothing.This way you're attacking the "obvious" areas that need it and maximizing what you have.......that being said I can definitely see a Helix in my future...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah if you're working with limited parametric EQ per channels, approach with broad strokes. That said though, if you've got 6 bands of fully parametric for each channel, you should be able to hit pretty darn close to perfect for most all typical bandwidth regions in a car setup unless you've got a really crazy wide widebander or something like that you're working with. Parametric done right is kind of a challenge with goal being to get it there on as few of good parametric EQ trims as possible. Hit the big shaping stuff first, then the biggest of the little peaks that would be audible if you've got the bands left to work with. There is something to be said for having that 1/6 or 1/12 octave data to work with in mind, but typically working with 1/3 octave is just fine.
Click to expand...

I was doing something stupid and thought it was right.Measuring and inserting the filters.Then I would measure again and EQ that measurement.Problem with that is I don't have enough filters.It would cancel out the other filters and put new ones in place.I learned quickly that I need to erase or bypass the current filters to get an accurate measurement that could receive new filters.Just common sense error on my part.I still plan on doing a remote tune with Nick to learn some finer points.


----------



## McKrakken

JH1973 said:


> I was doing something stupid and thought it was right.Measuring and inserting the filters.Then I would measure again and EQ that measurement.Problem with that is I don't have enough filters.It would cancel out the other filters and put new ones in place.I learned quickly that I need to erase or bypass the current filters to get an accurate measurement that could receive new filters.Just common sense error on my part.I still plan on doing a remote tune with Nick to learn some finer points.


Interesting that you just mentioned this.. I had this exact PM conversation with Nick (Thanks!). With my TWK88, I have 10 channels, and the first filter suggestion was for 12 filters! What to do!?! He suggested switching to 1/3 octave, which I will try tonight.

Still a question though.. if you use 1/3 octave and use up your filters, how do you keep making adjustments when you take additional measurements?


----------



## SkizeR

McKrakken said:


> Still a question though.. if you use 1/3 octave and use up your filters, how do you keep making adjustments when you take additional measurements?


This is where things get tricky. In a car, the suggested eq wont result in what it predicts. This is just the nature of a car, or any room really. It might be close, it might not, but it will not nail it first time. This is where having the knowledge and experience comes into play. 10 bands of parametric is enough for most channels in the right hands when done manually. for someone who doesnt have a full grasp on what their looking at and how to fix it, stacking up to 30 bands of eq will work in most cases (assuming there isnt a major issue).


----------



## McKrakken

SkizeR said:


> This is where things get tricky. In a car, the suggested eq wont result in what it predicts. This is just the nature of a car, or any room really. It might be close, it might not, but it will not nail it first time. This is where having the knowledge and experience comes into play. 10 bands of parametric is enough for most channels in the right hands when done manually. for someone who doesnt have a full grasp on what their looking at and how to fix it, stacking up to 30 bands of eq will work in most cases (assuming there isnt a major issue).


well, lets hope I don't run out of bands! 

How do I switch to using 1/3 octave smoothing instead of 1/6? I'm not seeing how to change it in REW.

Edit: Nevermind! found it!

Thanks


----------



## hockeythug

McKrakken said:


> I had this same question last night. Best I could come up with was with a Google search is a JBL house curve that someone had posted. I'd be curious to know if this is the same curve Skizer used for his video.
> 
> To make the file, I created a .txt file and pasted the information below. I saved the file and was able to access it through REW.
> 
> The data I used:
> 
> JBL Overall House Curve
> 20 9
> 25 9
> 31 9
> 40 9
> 50 9
> 63 9
> 80 6.5
> 100 4.25
> 125 2
> 160 0
> 200 0
> 250 0
> 315 0
> 400 0
> 500 0
> 630 0
> 800 0
> 1000 0
> 1200 0
> 1600 0
> 2000 0
> 2500 0
> 3100 0
> 4000 -1
> 5000 -2
> 6300 -3
> 8000 -4
> 10000 -5
> 12000 -6
> 16000 -6
> 20000 -6


Nick posted this in the comments of his video. Very similar to what you found

20 9.2
25 9.2 
32 9.2
40 9.2
50 9.2
63 9.2
80 8.0
100 6.0
125 4.0
160 1.0
200 0.0
250 0.0
315 0.0
400 0.0
500 0.0
630 0.0
800 0.0
1000 0.0
1250 0.0
1600 0.0
2000 0.0
2500 0.0
3150 0.0
4000 -0.5
5000 -1.0
6300 -2.0
8000 -3.0
10000 -4.0
12500 -4.5
16000 -5.0
20000 -6.0﻿


----------



## fcarpio

hockeythug said:


> Nick posted this in the comments of his video. Very similar to what you found
> 
> 20 9.2
> 25 9.2
> 32 9.2
> 40 9.2
> 50 9.2
> 63 9.2
> 80 8.0
> 100 6.0
> 125 4.0
> 160 1.0
> 200 0.0
> 250 0.0
> 315 0.0
> 400 0.0
> 500 0.0
> 630 0.0
> 800 0.0
> 1000 0.0
> 1250 0.0
> 1600 0.0
> 2000 0.0
> 2500 0.0
> 3150 0.0
> 4000 -0.5
> 5000 -1.0
> 6300 -2.0
> 8000 -3.0
> 10000 -4.0
> 12500 -4.5
> 16000 -5.0
> 20000 -6.0﻿


simplified: 

20 9.2
63 9.2
80 8.0
100 6.0
125 4.0
160 1.0
200 0.0
3150 0.0
4000 -0.5
5000 -1.0
6300 -2.0
8000 -3.0
10000 -4.0
12500 -4.5
16000 -5.0
20000 -6.0﻿


----------



## McKrakken

hockeythug said:


> Nick posted this in the comments of his video. Very similar to what you found
> 
> 20 9.2
> 25 9.2
> 32 9.2
> 40 9.2
> 50 9.2
> 63 9.2
> 80 8.0
> 100 6.0
> 125 4.0
> 160 1.0
> 200 0.0
> 250 0.0
> 315 0.0
> 400 0.0
> 500 0.0
> 630 0.0
> 800 0.0
> 1000 0.0
> 1250 0.0
> 1600 0.0
> 2000 0.0
> 2500 0.0
> 3150 0.0
> 4000 -0.5
> 5000 -1.0
> 6300 -2.0
> 8000 -3.0
> 10000 -4.0
> 12500 -4.5
> 16000 -5.0
> 20000 -6.0﻿


I like this curve - a little less cut starting at 4k. I found implementing the curve I posted that it kind of cuts the "brightness" which I enjoy.. still sounds great though.

With the configuration I have, the tweeters are in the a-pillars and are pretty bright! How is this typically dealt with? Just cut the level to the tweeters? I just cut the left tweeter 5.5db and right -6 and it really seems to have mellowed it out.


----------



## JH1973

McKrakken said:


> hockeythug said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nick posted this in the comments of his video. Very similar to what you found
> 
> 20 9.2
> 25 9.2
> 32 9.2
> 40 9.2
> 50 9.2
> 63 9.2
> 80 8.0
> 100 6.0
> 125 4.0
> 160 1.0
> 200 0.0
> 250 0.0
> 315 0.0
> 400 0.0
> 500 0.0
> 630 0.0
> 800 0.0
> 1000 0.0
> 1250 0.0
> 1600 0.0
> 2000 0.0
> 2500 0.0
> 3150 0.0
> 4000 -0.5
> 5000 -1.0
> 6300 -2.0
> 8000 -3.0
> 10000 -4.0
> 12500 -4.5
> 16000 -5.0
> 20000 -6.0&#65279;
> 
> 
> 
> I like this curve - a little less cut starting at 4k. I found implementing the curve I posted that it kind of cuts the "brightness" which I enjoy.. still sounds great though.
> 
> With the configuration I have, the tweeters are in the a-pillars and are pretty bright! How is this typically dealt with? Just cut the level to the tweeters? I just cut the left tweeter 5.5db and right -6 and it really seems to have mellowed it out.
Click to expand...

This past weekend I lowered both tweets 4db.....cut down on the brightness just enough to smooth things out a bit.


----------



## Durgesh

SkizeR said:


> So for months now i have been getting tons of messages from various people asking me for help about setting up their processors and where to start with tuning. I figured it was finally time to just make a video showing one of many methods to tune. I find this method the easiest for beginners. This is by no way, shape, or form the end all be all. This is just a guide for the basics of EQ'ing your speakers using the parametric eq in your DSP.
> 
> First things first. This does not cover crossovers or (much of) time alignment. Check out Kyle Ragsdales video series for that. This just covers what to do after those are set.
> 
> For this guide to work, you must set your crossovers electrically the same all using LR -24DB slopes, and time alignment must be set by distance. Use this website to make that last part easy..
> 
> http://tracerite.com/calc.html
> 
> 
> 
> Gear needed:
> 
> 1) a processor with parametric eq. this guide will not work for graphic eq.
> 
> 2) Room EQ Wizard. Its free. Search it and download it
> 
> 3) A USB Microphone, like the Dayton UMM6 or Minidsp UMIK.
> 
> 4) A laptop to do your tuning and measurements on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let me break down the steps via text just in case.
> 
> 1) set crossovers and TA by distance
> 
> 2) mute all drivers except for the one you want to measure first
> 
> 3) measure with mono pink noise. save measurement
> 
> 4) upload a house curve, then go to REW's Auto EQ tab.
> 
> 5) set your parameters and target. Match response to target
> 
> 6) use your parametric eq to copy the filters that REW gives you
> 
> 7) re-measure to double check. repeat steps 3, 5, and 6 if necessary to match house curve
> 
> 8) mute that driver and move to next. Repeat steps 3, 5, 6, and 7
> 
> 9) take the same measurement but with both drivers playing. Determine what is causing any issues if there are any. adjust accordingly
> 
> 10) Move onto the next pair of drivers and repeat measurements and adjustments
> 
> 11) Double check by ear
> 
> 12) adjust TA by ear


Hi Nick 

In the RTA window. Should we choose...
RTA 1/12 Octave for Midbass?
RTA 1/6 or 1/3 Octave for Midrange & Tweeter?
And which option for Subwoofer ? 

Also Mono Pink Noise and Un-correlated pink noise is same provided through the download link in the video. Right?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Durgesh said:


> Hi Nick
> 
> In the RTA window. Should we choose...
> RTA 1/12 Octave for Midbass?
> RTA 1/6 or 1/3 Octave for Midrange & Tweeter?
> And which option for Subwoofer ?
> 
> Also Mono Pink Noise and Un-correlated pink noise is same provided through the download link in the video. Right?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Resolution depends. I usually use 1/6th or 1/3rd. 

Mono pink noise and uncorrelated pink noise are two different things. You want mono (correlated) pink noise

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Durgesh

SkizeR said:


> Resolution depends. I usually use 1/6th or 1/3rd.
> 
> Mono pink noise and uncorrelated pink noise are two different things. You want mono (correlated) pink noise
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## 01LSi

Probably I missed this but when I am matching the response to the target am I able to dictate the number of EQ filters it offers me? I swapped out the Helix for a TWK to test a theory but it only offers 10 bands of EQ adjustment... 

I've got more REW filters now probably because I'm still using the passive crossover until I'm 100% sure I've solved the turn on pop.


----------



## 01LSi

Ok I see this addressed as setting it to 1/3 octave for less filters but when I select 1/3 smoothing it gives me 1 filter instead of 17

edit: 1/6 smoothing gave me 8 filters ... JL why aren't there more filters in a product released so recently ... why ...


----------



## SkizeR

Bdubz said:


> Ok I see this addressed as setting it to 1/3 octave for less filters but when I select 1/3 smoothing it gives me 1 filter instead of 17
> 
> edit: 1/6 smoothing gave me 8 filters ... JL why aren't there more filters in a product released so recently ... why ...


Real question is why did two? go from a helix to a twk? 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## 01LSi

SkizeR said:


> Real question is why did two? go from a helix to a twk?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


I'm trying to see if the TWK does a better job/less noise at converting the Fix digital signal to analog than the Helix. Specs say JL devices accept lower input voltages than the Helix, I can't get the Helix to clip post amp/post fix when adjusting the dials inside the unit. To be fair I never actually plugged the Helix in to the amps to see how it faired, but the input voltages aren't low enough I don't think which is why I can't get it to clip with the clipping LED. Maybe I'll try just the Helix only post factory amplifier.

It's currently digital but next I'm going to try the analog outputs of the Fix to the TWK.

So far it seems that I had the best audio quality when going straight from the Fix to the amp (least amount of gain adjustment necessary at the amp without introducing light electrical/engine whine, higher noise floor / steady hiss, etc). But I can't do more elaborate tuning with the Fix only. 

I'm confused about how I'm post factory amplifier but it's not a substantial benefit... 

Maybe I won't use a Fix at all as the next step and go straight to Helix or TWK. I dunno. This sucks. If you look at the Fix calibration graphs it seems to imply it is lowering the post factory amplifier output in order to sum the signal. And then I'm boosting them later in the amp ... so maybe I'll skip the Fix as a next step and try each unit standalone even though I couldn't get the Helix to find a happy inbetween input voltage in the range according to the clipping LED.

Maybe I was wrong to go with the Base Model TLX and should have gotten the tech/ELS version instead. Maybe that has stronger output with less issues with aftermarket amplification. Purposely bought base thinking it would be less difficult to deal with audio wise.


----------



## oabeieo

I stopped reading , are you saying to not have an acoustical crossover



Just kidding :-D


----------



## Sonnie

I want to give Nick a big thank you for using and supporting REW. THANKS Nick!

Just purchased ResoNix for my new 2019 RAM... looking forward to getting to work on that setup soon.

For those wanting the latest version available for Room EQ Wizard... it can now be downloaded from our REW DOWNLOADS page over at AV NIRVANA. John continues to make improvements, add new features and squash bugs on a regular basis.


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## disconnected

Thank you Nick for this informative guide. A laptop, a microphone, and the free REW software coupled with the knowledge you provide, makes a difference in car audio. Again, thanks.


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## JH1973

Yep,would like to say thank you as well Nick.Though it's not really a beginner video it helped me immensely and now I can take measurements and EQ,etc with a good degree of confidence.


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## Chaos

This thread and the video is very helpful, thanks.


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## EmoJackson

Can someone please share their experience with tuning and T/A when the speakers are in the dash? I think that is the next location my midrange is going.


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## drop1

EmoJackson said:


> Can someone please share their experience with tuning and T/A when the speakers are in the dash? I think that is the next location my midrange is going.


Same process. Ta is the same. Just measure it with a tape to start. Use easy crossovers like 24db lr's and eq like normal. Being in the dash isnt a huge deal. It can sound really good 100 percent reflected off the windshield. You may get a spike at a certain freq but it's nothing that cant be eq'd down.


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## EmoJackson

drop1 said:


> Same process. Ta is the same. Just measure it with a tape to start. Use easy crossovers like 24db lr's and eq like normal. Being in the dash isnt a huge deal. It can sound really good 100 percent reflected off the windshield. You may get a spike at a certain freq but it's nothing that cant be eq'd down.


Measure from the estimated center of the cone in the dash, or the estimated reflective point of the cone on the windshield?


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## Libba

Hi guys how bad are these speakers??? BLUE RMB ......RED LMB ......Headunit Through .....DSP (dayton) 80LW LP and Through HP....................Are these ****ty speakers tweakable with EQ? DPS dayton 10band? Kinda need some help


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## SkizeR

The frequency response in a car doesnt tell you if the speakers are bad or not.


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## Libba

Noted! But does it look fixable with a dsp-408 10bands? Because in my opinion these graphs look terrible or am i wrong ? actually need some pointers to help me get them goinf


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## SkizeR

if you know what you're doing, yes, fixable. wont be perfect but can definitely be fixed to a point of satisfaction


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## Libba

thnx for the reply........the reason i ask because ive read on several forums that you shouldnt boost or cut in more then 6db? And looking at the graph i should beyond the 6db's


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## Shadow_419

Are the speakers time aligned and what is the passband you're going to be using them in? Once crossover and TA is set, it's possible that some of the peaks and dips may not be as bad.


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## Libba

I did TA by measuring ..... dont know if that is good enough.... any other "best" method you would suggest? I figured by only using the 80hz xover i would get an image that would suggest which xover level would be best, but as i look at the graphs i dont even have an idea where to set it tbh . Any help would be appreciated. And the difference in the graphs roll off points and peaks and dips are those caused by TA actually?


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## Libba

Thnx for replyth


Shadow_419 said:


> Are the speakers time aligned and what is the passband you're going to be using them in? Once crossover and TA is set, it's possible that some of the peaks and dips may not be as bad.
> [/QUO
> 
> 
> Shadow_419 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are the speakers time aligned and what is the passband you're going to be using them in? Once crossover and TA is set, it's possible that some of the peaks and dips may not be as bad.
> 
> 
> 
> thnx for reply ??
Click to expand...


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## Libba

Shadow_419 said:


> Are the speakers time aligned and what is the passband you're going to be using them in? Once crossover and TA is set, it's possible that some of the peaks and dips may not be as bad.


Ohw and btw is it normal or is it recommended that both same speakers....will have different/same crossover settings?(lpf/hpf)


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## SkizeR

Libba said:


> thnx for the reply........the reason i ask because ive read on several forums that you shouldnt boost or cut in more then 6db? And looking at the graph i should beyond the 6db's


stupid generalizations are stupid. It all depends on context


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## Shadow_419

If you have the headroom to not clip the signal boosting isn't bad. I'd say it comes down to a balancing act of leveling the signal to the curve you're shooting for while equalizing the left and right responses to match as well as is acceptable to you .


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## creed

i likely viewed the video a good 5 times, getting ready to run the first measurement soon.

I've the following crossover and TA set:

Tweeter 4500hz and up 24db
Midrange 250hz to 4500hz 24db
Midbass 80-250hz 24db
Subwoofer 20-60hz 24db

I understand i will choose "Bass Limited" for tweeter and for midrange, midbass and subwoofer I'll choose the "subwoofer" as to have the bandpass electrical crossover matched, but i have a question what's a right "Match Range" in the EQ Tab "Filter Task" should define for each individual driver based on my crossover setting?

I've tried the measurement without the car starting, the ambience is about 50++ db, but with car started it's over 70db recorded by the Minidsp, i assumed tuning it without the car started would be able to get a more accurate result, in the country where i live, it'll be a hot and sweating session inside the car without airconditioning


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## Gill

SkizeR said:


>


Last time I went through the thread, the video was working, what happened? I updated REW, wanted to see the settings.


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## mumbles

I think Nick recently changed locations and may need to adjust his share settings?

@SkizeR are you still hosting this video?


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## SkizeR

mumbles said:


> I think Nick recently changed locations and may need to adjust his share settings?
> 
> @SkizeR are you still hosting this video?


Nope. It uses an old version of REW that is no longer applicable


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## Gill

SkizeR said:


> Nope. It uses an old version of REW that is no longer applicable


Okay! I should have downloaded it, it covered the tricky part of EQ filters.


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## changster

We need a new video!!! Puh-leeeeeeeeeeeeze.


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## SkizeR

changster said:


> We need a new video!!! Puh-leeeeeeeeeeeeze.


Unfortunately there will be no videos like this anytime soon. But we will be offering something more involved soon enough


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## Jlugo360

SkizeR said:


> Unfortunately there will be no videos like this anytime soon. But we will be offering something more involved soon enough


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