# How much have you spent on sound deadening?



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Just doing a little market research as a potential vendor. I'm sure it will be interesting to see how this ends up. Should help Anthony, Rick, and others, I'd imagine. 


"Sound deadening" for this poll includes anything and everything related to vibration or noise control: mat, foams, whatever. 

Thanks for voting.


----------



## DonutHands (Jan 27, 2006)

roll of ram and a sheet of ensolite


----------



## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

I'm over the thousand mark and still haven't finished.


----------



## fredridge (Jan 17, 2007)

is this per car or total in our life? Some have done many cars over the years


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

fredridge said:


> is this per car or total in our life? Some have done many cars over the years


Per car/system.


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Less than $150


----------



## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

In my current system

2 rolls of raamat BXT
10 yards of ensolite
2 gallons of liquid deadener


----------



## JeremyC (Dec 20, 2007)

2 Bulk kits of hushmat
2 shop packs of second skin
Gallon to Gallon and 1/2 of second skin spray. 
2 boxes of hushmat foam


----------



## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

Got about $100 in and I'm around the halfway point.


----------



## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

not enough yet....

about $50-$75. i bought 30 sq feet of edead v1se2 for my doors and a lil piece of V4 for behind the woofers. i also bought a can of expanding foam to fill in sposts and add a lil mass to my plastic door skins. 

in the spring i plan to deaden my hatch, hatch floor, and quarter panels. so more edead v1se2 and a whole bunch of ensolite.


----------



## crammit442 (Oct 9, 2007)

700ish on current vehicle.


----------



## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

I spent a little over $200 for my doors because I made the mistake of buying eDead the first time, then got smart and used Raamat+Ensolite.

My next car is going to be some $2k ****box, so I plan on going nuts with that V-Barrier all over, etc. Prol spend up to $300-400 

-aaron


----------



## Second Skin Rep Jon (Oct 5, 2007)

Is "_Enough to more then double the value of the car..._" a valid answer?


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

half a roll of raammat and a big cascade deflex pad in each door. it does the job nicely and really don't feel the need for more unless i decide to go nuts on the whole truck. considering my exhaust is loud as fawk from the outside but barely audible on the inside i'm happy.


----------



## Thumper26 (Sep 23, 2005)

i've got close to 2 rolls of BXT in now, and will have 3 when it's all said and done. plus ensolite, deflex pads, and whatever felt pads, eggcrate, etc that it'll take to shut the door and trim panels up.


----------



## atsaubrey (Jan 10, 2007)

400sqft soooooo faaaarrrrrr. Ant is a GOD! I recommend the Damp Pro, awesome shyit! And Ant is a awsome guy to boot!


----------



## DonovanM (Nov 1, 2006)

Over $1500 on this car. Little less than half with you John, the rest with RAAM 

I did spend more on the rest of the system though... and I'm not done buying everything


----------



## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

I put over $400 into my car to make it sound quiet. It still needs more though. Definately not good enough for me. But my wallet tells me otherwise...


----------



## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

Well, a few hundred with you John,also about 100 sq ft of hush mat, few tubes of hush foam, and thats only the trunk floor, spare tire well, and ft doors. Still need a couple more boxes of Vmax from you soon as I can afford it to do the floor and headliner. Had a loud Shelby exhaust I can't even hear now. Ha-Ha


----------



## Phreaxer (Oct 8, 2005)

I've installed a decent amount of dynomat (not in my own vehicles though) and installed 6-8 rolls of raamat in my own vehicles over the years. I wish I had the time and money to install some in my current cars.  My wife's car needs it BAD and my car needs a lot of work, deadening would just be the begining. lol. 

Hopefully come next winter I will be able to do both cars.


----------



## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

hey guys, ive never did any sound deadening to any of my cars befor installing a system, but i just baught a new ext cab truck and i was thinking about doing very cheap sound deading? what are my best options to help out in any aspects of sound? I dont want to spend alot at all, just want little tips and tricks to make a difference?


----------



## RedGTiVR6 (Jun 26, 2007)

6 sheets of Blackhole 5 in the sub enclosure
a 50' roll of the OLD rammat from 5+ years ago, no reason to take it out!
50 Black Hole tiles in the doors (25 per side)
50 sheets of Blackhole mat in various locations (2+ layers on the floors)
10 sheets of Blackhole pad in strategic locations
1-4 layers of the sound deadening that's usually put under carpet in cars since we have custom hand stitched carpet

well over $1000....however, it's funny when you close the door on your VW and it has more authority than ANY luxury car out there...


----------



## 6spdcoupe (Jan 12, 2006)

Under $500 and enough to do my entire truck with some left over, but do I count John?


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

6spdcoupe said:


> Under $500 and enough to do my entire truck with some left over, but do I count John?


Of course, you know what the good stuff is. 

Thanks for all the votes, guys. In retropect, I think a better question might have been "how much *do* you spend on sound deadening" since quite a few have done multiple systems and/or only allocate a specific amount to this facet of car stereo.


----------



## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

Is it ever enough? Hope you aren't thinking about changing products. I'm sold on the vmax. Pm me if you are going another direction so I can go sell some blood or something to get your remaining stock.


----------



## Genxx (Mar 18, 2007)

Over $1000.

In the lude.
Vertex Barrier Pad 40sqft, 124sqft Rammatt, 30sqft V-Max, 27sqft HeatWave, 9 Yards Ensolite, 16sqft Vertex UltraStage Mat, 4 sqft Vertex Back-Stop 1.0, 1 Gallon Spectrum, 1 Gallon VB-1, and some Lead.

Still need about 50sqft more of mat, just have decide which I am going to use.


----------



## Second Skin Rep Jon (Oct 5, 2007)

Right now I'm sitting in at:
200 sq. ft. of Damp Pro
Five gallons of Spectrum Spray
Two gallons of Sludge
24 sq. ft. of HeatWave
27 sq. ft. of OverKill
9 sq. ft. of Rattle Pad
A sheet of Motor Mat
And roughly 50 sq. ft. of generic closed cell foam (_slowly removing it and replacing it with OverKill, Rattle Pad, and Ensolite_)

I keep trying to convince family members to allow me to install some deadener in their cars, but so far it's a no go...


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

foosman 100 said:


> Is it ever enough? Hope you aren't thinking about changing products. I'm sold on the vmax. Pm me if you are going another direction so I can go sell some blood or something to get your remaining stock.


To the compulsive deadener, I suppose not. I'm kind of that way, I guess. The primary reason why I got into selling my own stuff was due to this "problem." Well, actually, I learned the hard way...really. Wasted a lot of time and money on ineffective products and methods. 

I'm just interested to see at which dollar level a nice level of satisfaction is reached. Seems to be around $300 right now.

Car audio is practically dead and we all know this. If spending one's hard earned money on sound deadening makes up such a small fraction of that, then it makes it a tough sell. I had to give my products away just to get a review and I'm not going to do it anymore.....it's too good and too valuable. 

Breaking the mindset is practically impossible. As frootloops said, his family won't even let him touch their cars!

This forum has done a complete 180 in my eyes. There are upsides and downsides to every business decision. DIYMA is now a business. Business is competitive and I can't compete. It's been fun.


----------



## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

I guess I can't contribute since I didn't actually _pay_ for all of mine


----------



## MidnightCE (Mar 5, 2007)

Over $250 easily... I think ive madea slight dent in the noise in the car.


----------



## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Well - started with dynamat on the back deck and around drivers... 
then added two 4'x6' sheets of RV insulation in various interior panels... 
then met Rick from RAAMmat- and added two rolls of raammat & 4sq yards 
of ensolite for the doors/floor/firewall/side panels and wheelwells...
needed another sheet of RV insulation when I moved some down to cover 
entire floor with it over the ensolite...
then bought three sheets of cascade for the trunk and Apillars...
added dynamat pads behind drivers somewhere in there...

I think I am about at $400 atm. There are still a few places I would like to reinforce, and I would like to find something suitable for stuffing the giant empty spaces underneath my giant dash. 

I would do it differently if I were to start again though... but I'll not write what or why here.

Good luck with sales and research
Jim


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

in the last 5 years?
about $2m 

ANT


----------



## 6spdcoupe (Jan 12, 2006)

Second Skin Rep said:


> in the last 5 years?
> about $2m
> 
> ANT


Showoff.


----------



## Second Skin Rep Jon (Oct 5, 2007)

Second Skin Rep said:


> in the last 5 years?
> about $2m
> 
> ANT


You don't count...


----------



## haibane (Sep 29, 2005)

My car is quiet enough factory


----------



## The Drake (Apr 3, 2007)

Second Skin Rep said:


> in the last 5 years?
> about $2m
> 
> ANT


Geez, I certainly hope thats not all in one car!


----------



## michaelsil1 (May 24, 2007)

haibane said:


> My car is quiet enough factory


Rolls Royce?


----------



## haibane (Sep 29, 2005)

michaelsil1 said:


> Rolls Royce?


325i


----------



## BoomHz (Apr 20, 2007)

200 sqft of Ultimate plus that, "Hey you live in Alaska, so I gotta rape you on the.....", shipping charge ...........538 dollars

48 sqft 1/8" closed cell foam .............36 dollars

Waitin for another V-max/Barrier combo................priceless 

Can I get one free?? 

J/K 






Unless you really wanna give me one


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Deflex pads behind drivers..........






That's it 

Resolution for 2008, 2007's resolutions done


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

BoomHz said:


> 200 sqft of Ultimate plus that, "Hey you live in Alaska, so I gotta rape you on the.....", shipping charge ...........538 dollars
> 
> 48 sqft 1/8" closed cell foam .............36 dollars
> 
> ...


Sure, plus about $450 shipping.  

Actually you deserve a little discount for having one of the best sig's i've ever seen "Go SQ yourself".....nice!


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

haibane said:


> 325i


I have to agree. That car is a virtual masterpiece of noise control and very nicely tuned engine/exhaust sounds.


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

1000+ views and less than 100 votes???


----------



## haibane (Sep 29, 2005)

Rudeboy said:


> I have to agree. That car is a virtual masterpiece of noise control and very nicely tuned engine/exhaust sounds.


Been helping my friend put near 400lbs of deadener in his camry and his trunk just now sounds like mine did factory.


----------



## BoomHz (Apr 20, 2007)

Oops!!! Forgot to vote:blush: 



And you can really see the difference I made 





Go burn a Bush (any of the species _Georgus Dumbassus_ will do)!!



*VOTE '08*


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Combined results of the same poll ran on Talkaudio.uk....

$0-100 *40* _23%_
$100-250 *53* _30%_
$250-500 *46* _26%_
$500-1000 *25* _14%_
$1000 *13* _7%_

So there is about the same number of us spending <$100 then there are spending $500+. And then a good chunk (56%) are between $100 and $500. 

What would be really interesting would be to see how these numbers correlate to how much is spent on the entire system. I have my theories.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

FoxPro5 said:


> Combined results of the same poll ran on Talkaudio.uk....
> 
> $0-100 *40* _23%_
> $100-250 *53* _30%_
> ...


Trivial I know, but are those UK amounts in pounds or dollars? 2:1 exchange rate now.


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Rudeboy said:


> Trivial I know, but are those UK amounts in pounds or dollars? 2:1 exchange rate now.


USD

Ant's doing a good job over there. SS products are huge many of those that responded to the thread mentioned SS products.

Same goes for RAAMmat over here.

What that means to me is that "sound deadening" in the eyes of most = CLD. And it doesn't seem to extend much beyond that until we reach the competition level.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

FoxPro5 said:


> USD


Good, make them do the conversion - they can afford it now 



FoxPro5 said:


> Ant's doing a good job over there. SS products are huge many of those that responded to the thread mentioned SS products.
> 
> Same goes for RAAMmat over here.
> 
> What that means to me is that "sound deadening" in the eyes of most = CLD. And it doesn't seem to extend much beyond that until we reach the competition level.


The upcoming version of SDS is going to spend more time on the full range of approaches and products. It'll be interesting to see if that has any impact.


----------



## CMR22 (Feb 10, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> The upcoming version of SDS is going to spend more time on the full range of approaches and products. It'll be interesting to see if that has any impact.


Is there time frame for it being completed and available for us to read?


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

CMR22 said:


> Is there time frame for it being completed and available for us to read?


Looks really good for the end of this month. It kept getting pushed back as more products came in. Each liquid sample needs 30 days to fully cure, so I'd be ready to go and something else would become available. I've decided that the sample set I have now is it, so I just have to do a few more test and write it all up. Sorry it's taken so long.


----------



## CMR22 (Feb 10, 2007)

Cool. I am looking forward to it.


----------



## GeoffB (Feb 3, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> Trivial I know, but are those UK amounts in pounds or dollars? 2:1 exchange rate now.


You have to remember that due to the weight of this stuff that it costs an absolute fortune to ship it from other countrys and most this stuff comes from the states. I once a few years back priced up bringing raammat over and nearly fell of my chair. 
So it costs more to buy in at shops also less discount as not as big a market over here, Also our postal charges for mainland shipping are about twice the cost they are in the states. Taxes including vat and import tax are included in the prices so ~25% extra again.



> What would be really interesting would be to see how these numbers correlate to how much is spent on the entire system. I have my theories.


There alot of high priced system on that forum i have my theories why its gone like that over the years once you start digging into users background and contacts. It starts becoming clear.


----------



## kskywr (Oct 2, 2006)

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm over the thousand mark and still haven't finished.


I'm in the same boat. I had no idea I would need so much and I hate it. I just don't like adding all that weight to my car but resonances and vibrations drive me nuts!


----------



## nismos14 (Jun 22, 2007)

Have 103 sq ft of second skin damp and damp pro
100 of another deadener 
and 50 of closed cell foam

total cost - $515 I guess I voted wrong... whoops.


----------



## raamaudio (May 4, 2005)

"How much have you spent" is really no where nearly as relevant as how much effort have you put into properly sound deadening your vehicle!!!

Far to often have I seen a poorly excuted shotgun blast approach that fell far below the potential benefits the time and materials invested could of resulted in.

A carefully planned and executed install can achieve dramatic results without spending allot of money. This is done by first understanding what you are trying to attempt then using the minimal materials carefully placed and then move on to the next area. A priority list is very helpful as well, what will effect the reduction of road noise the most and also give the best improvement to the audio quality, they usually go hand in hand but not always. 

I routinely talk fellow enthusiasts out of spending to much on materials and instead investing the time to do a good job with less, saves money for other toys as well as gives better results

Rick


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Your screams are not falling on deaf ears here, Rick. I'm with you 110% on that. You can get excellent results without spending out of your ass. But, you also can't duck tape an old flip flop sandal behind your mids and call it a day. With some good research time, selecting the best material for the job will pay off in the long run.

What the results of this tell me is that many guys over-spend and over-compensate on other areas (amps, cables, wire, etc) and maybe do a little deadening on an as-needed basis. Proper planning can really make the most out of your money.

On the other hand, a lot of us love to tinker and try stuff so and it's hard to set a budget when doing this.


----------



## rockondon (Jan 18, 2008)

My last car had 3bulk dynamat and some kinda foam. 145x3=435.
This one in the planing will be 300-400$ more if i could. For me its buy bigger amps ,or DEADNER. I like bigger amps. But deadner makes it sound twice as good.
Rick you got mail.


----------



## danz24 (Mar 18, 2008)

Doors/trunk some floor
about ~$300


----------



## Aaron Clinton (Oct 17, 2006)

*Loving the second skin Damplifier pro and overkill. Stuff is addictive, the more I put in the more I like it and the more I want to put in.*


----------



## Mack (Jul 27, 2007)

$2.00 Got a deal on 2 dynamat trunk kits when i bought my IDQ's from Sounddomain.


----------



## Powers (Apr 10, 2008)

frootloops said:


> Is "_Enough to more then double the value of the car..._" a valid answer?


Select the $0-$100 option.


----------



## entrophy (Apr 22, 2008)

Just spent about $500 On Damp Pro and Luxury Liner Pro from secondskin....
Ant is cool ^.^ 
I'm sure I'll need more in the future but I wanted the best and not the imitations.


----------



## trainman0978 (Apr 2, 2008)

240 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum --All from Second Skin., plus two rolls of R-13 ( used to fill the back door, quarter panel cavities, suicide doors ), six cans of great stuff spray foam, and a couple of cans of 3M #77, and a roil of foil tape. 

2007 Fj cruiser....


----------



## Mac (Aug 27, 2008)

About 15 dollars so far. I just got the dynamat speaker kit for my ABS plastic kick panels to reduce the rattle. Im at the point where I gotta pick between putting more into my current car or getting a new car. I love my car too much though.


----------



## jrwalte (Mar 27, 2008)

I've spent about $360 so far to deaden doors, trunk, rear deck, side panels and ensolite. I plan on buying another roll of Raammat to further deaden my doors and more elsewhere if necessary.


----------



## Gruszka530 (Jan 29, 2008)

36 sq. ft. damplifier pro on front doors and trunk.


----------



## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

So far around $100, but I plan to spend much more. $100 didn't seem to get me very far.

I did get a bunch of closed cell foam for free, just have to put it in.


----------



## Insane01VWPassat (May 12, 2006)

Oh god where do I start. On the currentbuild so far here is the excessive list of products going into the passat. 

(10) Dynamat bulkpacks
(8) sheets of dynamat extremeliner
(12) rolls dynamat dynaliner 1/4"
(8) rolls dynamat dynaliner 1/2"
(10) rolls dynamat dynaliner 1/8"
8 gallons dynashield spray
(46) individual dynasorb squares
(1) hoodliner
(3) gallons 2 part 20lb 4:1 expandable foam
(2) sheets Baltic birch ply (yes this was used for sound deadening in the floors.)


----------



## LiquidClen (Dec 27, 2005)

~700


----------



## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

too much to be happy about.. 500+


----------



## nrubenstein (Sep 4, 2008)

I might spend $20. I expect I'll have to do some point treatment to cure rattles. There's no way I'm adding one ounce more weight than I have to, though.


----------



## nrubenstein (Sep 4, 2008)

nt extra post.


----------



## larryboy2911 (Jun 27, 2008)

I haven't spent anything yet, but for what it's worth, here's my plan for my '07 Escape Hybrid Limited:

Front Doors Deadener (12 sq. ft/door)
Front Doors Foam (6 sq. for the skin)
Rear wheel wells Deadener (12 sq. ft)
Floor Deadener (36 sq. ft)
Floor Foam (40+ sq. ft)

Est. Deadener: $250
Foam: free (got a hookup, yes, it's fire rated)
Time: 3 Saturday's if I'm lucky!

Haven't decided if filling cavities would make a difference or not yet. It's hard to put your ear in the kick panels while driving


----------



## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Around 300 or so and eventually more. I put in a beefy system compared to my last one and seems the "fatmat" nor the 'Second skin" is doing as well as before, lol! 

I betcha Foxpro knows who this is now. Hi Foxy lady!


----------



## BlaqJack (Jan 10, 2009)

I think I hit about 650 total for everything.


----------



## jluv (Jan 19, 2009)

I believe I am just over the $1k mark, with over 200 sq ft of Dynamat Xtreme and also Dynaxorb squares in all 4 doors. I put it all in myself, or else the labor costs would have been insane.


----------



## dbiegel (Oct 15, 2006)

I respectfully disagree with the "do the minimum necessary and move on" approach for two reasons.

(1) Peace of Mind. Whenever I've used that approach, I've always later wondered if maybe I just did some more, my sound/road noise would be better. I always feel like maybe its holding me back from further progress. THEN, I end up going back and re-doing it, which ends up taking a hell of a lot more time and effort than if I just "did it right" (if only in my mind) in the first place.

In other words, I find there's a certain peace of mind you get when you've gone a bit overkill with a door/panel etc. and you know you NEVER have to deal with that door/panel/etc again. This does require a smart approach, not just slapping on extra layers of dampener. I use tons of MLV, foam, and dampener where needed to get this peace of mind.

(2) How is a consumer supposed to know whats good enough? Even with experience, I don't think any of us have access to equipment that can truly measure the final results of a deadening process on a vehicle. We're stuck with things like the 'knock on it' test, which really tell us nothing about how much road noise is transferred in, how effective our baffle is, how well the backwave is diffracted and/or absorbed, let alone more advanced factors such as the bone conduction of bass notes, etc.

I really think sound deadening is one of those things you can never have enough of. You just have to be smart about it and not just slap on endless layers of dampener. I've spent thousands on previous vehicles. On my Accord I have about $600 so far in deadening materials, and I have a long way to go.


----------



## shadowfactory (Oct 20, 2008)

2 rolls of raamat and 6 yards of ensolite and I still want to do at least 2 more layers for each door and get some LLP going for the floor and wheel wells.


----------



## filtor1 (Apr 24, 2008)

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm over the thousand mark and still haven't finished.


Same here


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

I find this a helpful guide for what you want and need: 
Elemental Designs 

Hope that helps, 
Kelvin 

PS: $800 of Raamat and Second Skin


----------



## Grim0013 (Nov 4, 2008)

I just placed an order with Second Skin to do "light" deadening in my GN, and spent $175.


----------



## EEB (Jul 21, 2008)

So far in my Blazer I probably spent around $400..


----------



## Fiercetimbo17 (May 17, 2007)

I voted 500-1000 but now that i think of it most likely more.

Now that im done have 120 sq ft edead, 62 sq feet raam, 40 sq ft damp, like 20ish of another budget mat, 160 sq ft foam 4 gallons on spectrum/sludge..i think im done now.
I was thinking a deflex pad behind my midranges or maybe some motor mat.
Although i do need some more spectrum so i can do the wheel wells this summer.


----------



## mcsoul (Jul 23, 2008)

Just two Damp pro door kits for me.


----------



## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Two Dynamat Extreme bulk packs, two Damplifier Pro bulk packs, 20'^2 each of Luxury Liner Pro and Luxury Liner, and Rattle Pad, plus some odds and ends of other stuff I had left over. Probably have about $750 into it.


----------



## GTM (Feb 12, 2009)

Only about $70 for a dynamat extreme trunk kit to reduce rattles due to subwoofer installation. (new car)


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

$65 in sound deadener and about $18 in cans of spray-on undercoating.


----------



## zGhost (Oct 28, 2008)

chithead said:


> $65 in sound deadener and about $18 in cans of spray-on undercoating.


Same here Just a Dynamat extreme front door kit so far (rear maybe later) and I quote chithead cause while I was at the store looking at crap i found some 3M "Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating" and just loved the stuff. Was able to spray the whole interior of each outer door skin with 2 coats 1 can per door. And then the door kit to the interior skin. Made a nice difference. Though the truck is a 08 and the new vehicles are much quieter from the factory than in the past IMHO.


----------



## Apex Rex (Jan 8, 2009)

Only $100 right now in Damplifier, but that is only to do my front doors of my extended cab truck and all I had in the budget right now. The spring and summer will bring more deadening, like the floor, when I swap out my bench seats for buckets. Might as well deaden the floor while I have the seats out.


----------



## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Next to nothing because I don't care about this car being (more) quiet, but my doors suck so I'll be doing those to improve sound.


----------



## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

2 rolls of RAAM mat, 8yds of Ensolite, and I want to add more! My Si is going to be like a vault.


----------



## tspence73 (Oct 14, 2008)

50 sq ft of Damplifier in front doors.
2 sq yds of ensolite on front doors.

I'm going with RAMMat damper due to the more reasonable pricing.
Ensolite will be used on most of the car.
Second Skin's Luxury Liner Pro will be used for the inner-firewall/front-foot area as well as the roof.
Expanding foam will be used for A-pillar B-pillar and possibly C-pillar

I'm looking for a more cost-effective treatment for the wheel-wells of the car than Spectrum Sludge. It's simply too much money to pay for cheapy goop that hardens into rubber-like stuff. There must be something cheaper than $60 a gallon.


----------



## dkm201 (Nov 29, 2007)

I vote most tragic thread ever.


----------



## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

i think the market for sound deadening is alive and growing, but the pricing on this stuff is ridiculous.

promotions for deadener seems to bring attention.
i like the method of which ant encourages product reviews in exchange of materials.

i guess whatever pays the bills?

*ps i spent 15 dollars on shipping for related products.


----------



## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

tspence73 said:


> Ensolite will be used on most of the car.


And what's that supposed to accomplish?


----------



## nola000 (Mar 17, 2009)

"Over $1500 on this car."

You people are nuts!


----------



## SSSnake (Mar 8, 2007)

$180 MLV
$ 90 1/4" Volara
$218 Raammat
$ 95 Noxudol (1 gallon)


----------



## tspence73 (Oct 14, 2008)

ArcL100 said:


> And what's that supposed to accomplish?


It will be an effective noise barrier I think if my door install is any indication. Ensolite really worked to supress/limit external noise when I used it in my door.


----------



## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

tspence73 said:


> It will be an effective noise barrier I think if my door install is any indication. Ensolite really worked to supress/limit external noise when I used it in my door.


What would you say your experience is with regard to **** sucking?


----------



## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Seems like a lot of money goes into the whole deadning process.


----------



## 01_Wolfsburg (Jul 8, 2007)

I used about 2/3 roll of Raammat in my doors, big difference


----------



## THATSALEXUS? (Mar 23, 2009)

I have 2 layers of Dynamat Extreme on every interior sheet metal surface of my 4Runner except the roof. I also have 1 layer of heavy jute on every sheet metal surface except the floor. Which equates to 3 total layers of sound deadening on all vertical surfaces. 

Many people will disagree as to the merits of sound deadening, but for my taste (and ears), it is every bit as crucial as any other component in an audio system.


----------



## azncarjunkie (Jan 21, 2009)

man, some of you guys are crazy. i'm just starting to get into the deadening...i love this thread


----------



## 02VetZ06 (Apr 6, 2009)

I have a 2002 corvette and put about 500 worth of deadening, 

100sq ft of damplifier regular 
5 sheets of LLP, Amounts were recommended by second skin and were dead on for my install

Overall its a great combo, easy to install although the bulk of the LLP made it a pain to reinstall the carpet and trim as things were tight to begin with. 

I would not say it completely killed the road noise as traffic, but it was vast improvement and made even the stock stereo sound much better.


----------



## qstarin (Mar 25, 2009)

I have about 250 sq ft of B-Quiet Ultimate installed. 50 sq ft in the closet + another 100 sq ft I have to buy will be installed yet. Then basically the entire car will be covered in it. I also will have to buy some heavy batting type deadener or something appropriate to cover the floor and ceiling to absorb reflections.

So far: $350. Total expected: ~$500. Plus countless hours installing it and a couple ruined pairs of shorts (that butyl adhesive is sticky!).


----------



## Monkeykungphu (Apr 1, 2009)

qstarin said:


> I have about 250 sq ft of B-Quiet Ultimate installed. 50 sq ft in the closet + another 100 sq ft I have to buy will be installed yet. Then basically the entire car will be covered in it. I also will have to buy some heavy batting type deadener or something appropriate to cover the floor and ceiling to absorb reflections.
> 
> So far: $350. Total expected: ~$500. Plus countless hours installing it and a couple ruined pairs of shorts (that butyl adhesive is sticky!).


Man, I bet your results are going to be awesome!


----------



## qstarin (Mar 25, 2009)

Monkeykungphu said:


> Man, I bet your results are going to be awesome!



Well, we'll see.


I still have huge issues with wind noise. That remains my biggest problem.

But also, I think I've gone beyond the point of diminishing returns on the deadener in the trunk. Some of the last layer I added hoping it would help, but it didn't much.

If I did it over, I'd use a different butyl deadener, too. That B-Quiet is pretty cheap, but its also very messy compared to Dynamat Extreme and another no name butyl I've used.


----------



## Slidinrides (Feb 15, 2009)

Is Dynamat Xtreme contraband on here? No one seems to use it. I almost bought 72 sq. ft. for around 250 but now im havin second thoughts.


----------



## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Slidinrides said:


> Is Dynamat Xtreme contraband on here? No one seems to use it. I almost bought 72 sq. ft. for around 250 but now im havin second thoughts.


Excellent product [I have some ]


----------



## olbear1962 (Mar 13, 2009)

I have about $700 into the 'vette, Damplifier Pro and a layer of Luxery Liner Pro on top. The results are amazing, well worth the time and effort. 
Second Skin is just a great product.......


----------



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

I know it's old and have read this before, but I'm stunned by the insanity in this thread. 

I can't see any possible reason to spend the kind of money many here have on sound deadening. Unless your whole car is actually vibrating, why would you cover the whole car with it and use so much of it?


----------



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

subwoofery said:


> I find this a helpful guide for what you want and need:
> Elemental Designs
> 
> Hope that helps,
> ...


That guide looks like it was put together by someone that sells deadener.

LMAO!:laugh:


----------



## olbear1962 (Mar 13, 2009)

89grand said:


> I know it's old and have read this before, but I'm stunned by the insanity in this thread.
> 
> I can't see any possible reason to spend the kind of money many here have on sound deadening. Unless your whole car is actually vibrating, why would you cover the whole car with it and use so much of it?


I dont disagree with you, some of us are spending big $$.....
Personally when I can't hear the stereo without cranking it up; have to raise my voice to talk to my passenger or worse yet, can't hear folks on the cell phone, then i do have to do something.
The install I did made a huge difference to the drone, and road noise. I know the 'vette is a performance vehicle hence minimal sound deadening and light superstructure granted, this is all good, I wanted mine a tad more user friendly, I don't mind adding an extra 60 to 80lbs.


----------



## senseii (May 3, 2009)

$150 on raammat.


----------



## rmtannerjr (Jan 26, 2009)

Just got my first order of Damplifier Pro in. $320ish shipped for 80 sqft which will add back the 50lbs I shaved off of my BMW M3 from exhaust and battery upgrades. Too bad, spending all that money to make it faster and louder, now trying to tame the exhaust back down and making it slower in the process.


----------



## Strtsk8r321 (Mar 16, 2009)

about $176 on Raamat and ensolite


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Slidinrides said:


> Is Dynamat Xtreme contraband on here? No one seems to use it. I almost bought 72 sq. ft. for around 250 but now im havin second thoughts.


I bought some Dynamat Xtreme about 4-5 years ago, I bought the trunk kit which is about 32 sq ft. I only paid 175.00 so you got a pretty good deal. I used it and it worked perfectly, the bass was deeper, and there was no "tin cans" rattle or rattle at all.


----------



## John0540 (Nov 22, 2008)

$400 so far, as long as I can finish my doors with what I have left that will be it.

100 sq ft of damplifier 
36 sq ft of Luxury Liner
30 sq ft of overkill


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

$45 for enough FatMat to do the trunk (~30 SF)
$10 in rubberized undercoating spray (2 cans)
$25 for a layer of high density closed cell foam rubber under the carped (~30 SF)

Using a heavy rubber mat from my truck bed in lieu of mass layered vinyl: priceless.

Actually, I'm only about half-way finished. What I've done so far has helped, but I still need to do the doors and quarter-panels. I might be able to finish under $100, but it would be a lot more if I used real MLV!


----------



## Chevelle Kid (Jul 4, 2009)

1 can of "Great stuff" works wonders on roofs that separated from the supports. Although I do plan on buying some real stuff like Fatmat.

Ben


----------



## eskateboarding7 (Mar 18, 2009)

My vote was exponentially lower than what it would be for a normal consumer, I work for a Dynamat retailer  I still have boxes just floating around my house, waiting to be put in.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

damn im in the smallest group there is $1000+ club


----------



## chozar (Feb 14, 2008)

I spent $150 on brownbread way back in the day. Plus a few extra bags of polyfill.


----------



## Torquem (Jun 27, 2009)

I used Edead on my doors. Wish I hadnt.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

89grand said:


> I know it's old and have read this before, but I'm stunned by the insanity in this thread.
> 
> I can't see any possible reason to spend the kind of money many here have on sound deadening. Unless your whole car is actually vibrating, why would you cover the whole car with it and use so much of it?


Totally agree. Blame the sounddeadening companies for selling a bunch of magical BS to consumers, and the consumers for not doing their homework. Whenever I see 200sq feet of vibration damper layed down, especially layer on layer, I shake my head. More is not always better. Using the correct material in the right areas saves a ton of time and effort, and of course money as well. Some of the prices these sound deadening companies are charging are straight outlandish and disgraceful. But I guess as long as their are plenty of lemmings who will offer up their credit cards and spend 40 hours laying down 4 layers of vibration damper without spending 30 minutes to research properly, they will still continue the shenanighans.

So much time and money wasted...


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

captainobvious said:


> Totally agree. Blame the sounddeadening companies for selling a bunch of magical BS to consumers, and the consumers for not doing their homework. Whenever I see 200sq feet of vibration damper layed down, especially layer on layer, I shake my head. More is not always better. Using the correct material in the right areas saves a ton of time and effort, and of course money as well.


 
Magical BS? Not sure about that one. 
The right product for the given application might not be magical, but rather, effective. If selling an effective product is magical bs, I guess I would be lumped in to that category with a few others.

When you see some people doing 2 layers of damper usually it is a bi-product of the SPL community. For years, these guys had no other way to kill the obnoxious amount of vibrational flex but with multiple layers.

They post up pics, and other people follow suite.
Forums like DIYMA are generally SQ based so the SPL rarely goes over 135-140 db. No need to do multiple layers of vibration mat for us. Targeting key areas with a good product will satisfy most people that are focusing on sq, or simple noise reduction.

Try telling a guy with four 18 inch subs and 10k watts of power to use a few patches of material here and there. The results speak for themselves. When Dynamat first started, they sold a bulk pack (36 sq feet) and advertised that it was enough to do an entire car. Sure, to reduce harmonics in sheet metal it is enough, but as time went on and sound systems got louder and louder, 36 sq feet was no longer enough to accomplish the goals of the serious SPL competitor. The industry changed and with it, so did the marketing.

SPL guys (and wannabies) have been the backbone of the 12 volt industry for close to 20 years. It is no wonder that everyone follows suit.



> Some of the prices these sound deadening companies are charging are straight outlandish and disgraceful. But I guess as long as their are plenty of lemmings who will offer up their credit cards and spend 40 hours laying down 4 layers of vibration damper without spending 30 minutes to research properly, they will still continue the shenanighans.
> 
> So much time and money wasted...


 
You are correct that there are several companies that are making a killing on sound deadening. Mostly selling sub par mats (roofing tape mostly) and calling them vibration dampers, then charging the customer a very high percentage markup but in order to know whether a sound deadening company is charging outlandish prices you have to know what it costs to run a sound deadening business and what it costs to produce the products. 

When companies sell crap products are regular prices it hurts everyone. The consumer, and the industry. The profit is huge on this crap too. They charge according to what the market will bear, but offer products of a lesser quality that does not match up with the higher end (expensive) materials that have less of a margin. 
They keep selling on marketing hype and customer ignorance and make a killing on **** products. Been going on for years. Before I even got involved in this industry.

There are many aspects of sound deadening, so to apply the SQ aspect to all other aspects is to judge the whole by a limited example.
Hope that makes sense..

ANT


----------



## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

What kind of view does the suite have?


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

capnxtreme said:


> What kind of view does the suite have?


One with bad spelling I guess..


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol i think its awesome to be able to park my car in the garage and on music not tones be able to rattle the whole building and make stuff fall from the shevles yet the only rattling i have in my car is my stupid ass sub amp.... im waiting on ant so i can fix that, i have some damp pro but i want to try out the SPL plate thats supposed to be on the way

oh ya and with the same car ive just turned down the sub to a reasonable level and took 1st place at a local USACI SQ comp


----------



## AllenH427 (May 3, 2009)

I bought the Dynamat bulk pack 36sqft for $130. That's all I'm putting in for sound deadening. I have done my trunk lid, and two front doors, and still have half the pack left.


----------



## MartyB (Jan 25, 2009)

Dynamat for the inside door panels only. Also used the Dynamat Dynaxorb to back the door panel speakers. For the outside door shells used the Lowe's asphalt based stuff with aluminum backing. For the rear deck, trunk, and underneath/behind the rear seats used roofing ice sheating. Cleaned all surfaces very well beforehand and lightly scuff sanded all surfaces for extra bite. No smell and everything is sticking.


----------



## Batmax (Aug 1, 2009)

Hi

Me + than $10 000.
Where we do the presentation ?


----------



## bkjay (Jul 7, 2009)

Two Dynamat bulk kits one Dampiifier Pro door kit and 9sq feet of overkill. Plan to add luxury liner pro next. So I'm in for about 4 bills.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lux liner pro is the ****... i need to buy some more


----------



## dragon17685 (Aug 1, 2009)

alot for a 2 dr pickup LOL and that was getting a hell of a deal on materials !!


----------



## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

All I know . . . is I couldn't see out of my windows after i mass-loaded em.

The RV sounds great though


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol damn that would be nice to be able to mass load the windows


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

89grand said:


> I can't see any possible reason to spend the kind of money many here have on sound deadening. Unless your whole car is actually vibrating, why would you cover the whole car with it and use so much of it?





FoxPro5 said:


> "Sound deadening" for this poll includes *anything and everything related to vibration or noise control*: mat, foams, whatever.


But I think your assessment with regards to dampers is accurate. The point diminishing returns can be reached pretty quickly with CLD mat. However, as Ant said - it's really vehicle and goal dependent. Overall the "more is better" and "you can never have too much" are two fundamentally bad ideas IMO/IME. 

And 1.5 years later, we still have 80% spending $500 or less. Wonder how much better our cars could sound if we bought the very best vibration and noise control products, used them wisely and intelligently, and trimmed a significant portion of our budgets off of the other aspects that bring little if any real _value _to our overall system's guts: the coolest new sub, latest "SQ" amp, magic sprinkles signal cables, etc??????/


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

hey fox question for you man. looking at a barrier product like LLP. if i dont have full coverage or really even close to it would i get any gains other then mass loading? im wondering if i should put some more on the outer portion of my quarter panels. Inner has close to full coverage


----------



## MikeMcCasland (Aug 2, 2009)

I spent about $40 on gutter tape for my last truck.


----------



## SSSnake (Mar 8, 2007)

Fox, 

Some sucking up... thanks for all of the posts and research done on noise attenuation in a car. I have MLV going in my cadi thanks to research that you pointed me to.

But this comment puzzled me a little.



> And 1.5 years later, we still have 80% spending $500 or less. Wonder how much better our cars could sound if we bought the very best vibration and noise control products, used them wisely and intelligently, and trimmed a significant portion of our budgets off of the other aspects...


Even with vibration dampner, MLV barrier, and a foam decoupler; expenditures should come in under $500 on most cars. It is the real reason that I have questions about just how helpful this survey is. I think a better survey would be one that focused on materials used rather than money spent.


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

emperorjj1 said:


> hey fox question for you man. looking at a barrier product like LLP. if i dont have full coverage or really even close to it would i get any gains other then mass loading? im wondering if i should put some more on the outer portion of my quarter panels. Inner has close to full coverage


Not sure what you're asking here. You don't have full coverage of damping mat?

Damping mat is not mass loading. Never has been, never will be. You can change the stickiness of the adhesive in your basic CLD product and get a pretty good swing in damping performance without touching the overall mass. Ask Rudeboy if you don't believe me. If you want to add mass, steal some sand from the golf course sand trap or have your contractor friend pour your car full of concrete. 

Barriers like MLV need to go as close to the noise source as possible to refract as much and as low on the frequency band as possible. It might not always be feasible in a car, but that's how they work.


----------



## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

SSSnake said:


> Even with vibration dampner, MLV barrier, and a foam decoupler; expenditures should come in under $500 on most cars. It is the real reason that I have questions about just how helpful this survey is. I think a better survey would be one that focused on materials used rather than money spent.


Not when you're me and you're super cheap. I can knock out a full passenger car for $250 I bet. Never once buying anything from Dynamat or any companies that sell the products. I know this because I've wasted A LOT of money doing what everyone else does. 

But I agree, more focus on the materials and not on the total dollar. You can hand your ass over to Focal Blackhole 5 and blow your entire budget, man.


----------



## SSSnake (Mar 8, 2007)

> You can hand your ass over to Focal Blackhole 5 and blow your entire budget, man.


Too true!


----------



## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

I know I'm quoting this from about three months ago, sorry.



89grand said:


> I can't see any possible reason to spend the kind of money many here have on sound deadening. Unless your whole car is actually vibrating, why would you cover the whole car with it and use so much of it?


LOL, I agree at least 90%; however, I just did a system in a customer's Del Sol, no deadener of any kind yet, and the whole car is vibrating visibly when the bass hits. That's with only two 12s on a 500 watt amp - we're upgrading later to at least 1400 watts. That should really get the car flexing if he still hasn't done any deadening. Also, it's too bad dynamat on glass decreases visibility substantially.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

FoxPro5 said:


> Not sure what you're asking here. You don't have full coverage of damping mat?
> 
> Damping mat is not mass loading. Never has been, never will be. You can change the stickiness of the adhesive in your basic CLD product and get a pretty good swing in damping performance without touching the overall mass. Ask Rudeboy if you don't believe me. If you want to add mass, steal some sand from the golf course sand trap or have your contractor friend pour your car full of concrete.
> 
> Barriers like MLV need to go as close to the noise source as possible to refract as much and as low on the frequency band as possible. It might not always be feasible in a car, but that's how they work.



i do have full coverage of dampining mat. I'm thinking of adding more luxury liner to my quarter panel to help reduce more tire noise but I'm unsure on if it would be helpful at all, I remember u saying that for barrier products you need pretty much full coverage for them to be effective. I have close to full coverage on the "outer skin" of the quarter panel and on the wheel well before the interior quarter panel skin (there's a decent amount of space from the actual car exterior and the interior metal)

If i were to add more liner i could hit the part of the wheel well i didn't get but i can only really do ~50% coverage of that quarter panel inside metal. Would that be enough coverage to make a difference with the barrier product?


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

emperorjj1 said:


> If i were to add more liner i could hit the part of the wheel well i didn't get but i can only really do ~50% coverage of that quarter panel inside metal. Would that be enough coverage to make a difference with the barrier product?


 
With Mass loading barriers it is best to do as much coverage as you can.
Unlike vibration damping, the noise IS directional (to a frequency dependant point) and is being blocked. 
Any area that has airborne noise coming through should be covered, but remember, not all areas have the same intense range of frequencies comeing through the panel. 
It is easy to tell you to shotgun it and load up everywhere but without checking out the car in person and running it through all kinds of scenarios it is hard to say for sure.
80% in one area (lets just say the wheel wells for our example) might be jsut as good as 100% coverage on the floor depending on how the manufacturer desinged the car. 50% coverage with a barrier might be the most efficient percentage in some other area of the car where the frequency range is more focused at a certain point.
Shotgunning is cool, because it works but is also heavy and can be expensive.
In most cases 100% coverage will do better than lets say... 80% coverage. In other cases that 20% might make the biggest difference in the entire project.
I say just do the best you can with the budget and means that you have. You can always add more later if you want to, and you can always rip some out and learn from your trials.

ANT


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol rip some out? never only time it would come out is if it fell off but contact cement has been doing well so far.









here's a pic of the quarter panel area in the cobalt another guy was working on. Snapping on the plastics has always been a ***** for me at least there so the absolute max I'm willing to do is from the top of that wheel well "hump" down. but i want to leave the access holes as well. Maybe even just from the well to those access holes, the car is pretty quiet as it is with basiclly full coverage of damp pro on all the metal i could get to and close to full coverage of LLP on all that outer metal. I just still have a bit of noise from the tires that probably wouldn't be an issue if the car wasn't lowered + heavy from the audio and second skin so since its not getting higher anytime soon a little reduction in tire noise would be nice.

thanks for the info thou ant. i think i'm gonna do it. just need to save up a bit to get the LLP, spl plate and some more spectrum

Oh ya any idea if the new thermal stuff can be applied on the interior of a car?


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

emperorjj1 said:


> Oh ya any idea if the new thermal stuff can be applied on the interior of a car?


The new 1200 degree heat shield?
Yes, It can get appplied to the underside of the car. The foil is strong enought to take impact from road debris and not deteriorate.
This would be good for reducing the exhaust heat before it comes through the floor..

ANT


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

ya thats what i ment but... lol long story


----------



## hdrugs (Sep 7, 2009)

depends on car maybe 2 bulk packs $1000 for an average car

i drive a small jap 2 door car, $500 on bulk pack a lot on front doors inside/out and boot, sweet


----------



## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Anyone tried the new SPL tiles yet ?

they are priced fairly low if your system has any thump to it , might be a worthwhile investment


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

they are on my to do list man. gotta get them in before the second skin comp next month


----------



## rockinraudio (Sep 19, 2009)

Had a guy in bout a year ago that wanted his Marathon coach Dynamated from one end to the other! Just to eliminate the small amount of road noise he could hear.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

how much did the bill come out to?


----------



## freemind (Sep 11, 2008)

Me and the kid just started on the Focus today. We have used 3/4+ of a roll of Raamat in-so-far. We also have a Damplifier Pro door pack to put in as well.

So we are about $180.00 into this car. We will do the roof come spring.


----------



## ACRucrazy (Mar 13, 2007)

I would say I am in the well over $1000 mark on the latest build.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/65390-2004-ram-quad-cab.html


----------



## sqoverspl (Aug 17, 2009)

WOW I couldnt even imagine spending over 500 on deadening much less 1000


----------



## The Drake (Apr 3, 2007)

a$$hole said:


> Anyone tried the new SPL tiles yet ?
> 
> they are priced fairly low if your system has any thump to it , might be a worthwhile investment


I ordered 50 tiles for my front and rear doors to try them out. I will let you guys know if no one else speaks up. I have damp, damp pro, OK pro, and Heatwave Pro in my car.


----------



## rockinraudio (Sep 19, 2009)

on the Marathon coach he paid 700.00 cash and since he owns a sand & gravel/concrete business he poured me a 25' by 30' 6" patio slab in trade.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol this thread is so wierd bumping itself all the time


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

emperorjj1 said:


> lol this thread is so wierd bumping itself all the time


 The thread guts bumped every time someone votes on the poll.


----------



## freemind (Sep 11, 2008)

DIYMA said:


> The thread guts bumped every time someone votes on the poll.


Can I vote again ANT? :laugh:


----------



## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm over the thousand mark and still haven't finished.


Me too, but unlike you my budget has already told me that I am done. :laugh:


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

DIYMA said:


> The thread guts bumped every time someone votes on the poll.


damn i should have known that


----------



## instalher (May 13, 2009)

i dumped 7 CASES in EACH of my cars.... plus 6 cases of extreamliner, and 4 rolls of tacmat you do the math.....


----------



## autotunz (Oct 13, 2009)

DIYMA said:


> Magical BS? Not sure about that one.
> The right product for the given application might not be magical, but rather, effective. If selling an effective product is magical bs, I guess I would be lumped in to that category with a few others.
> 
> 
> ANT


I totally agree. I have a dealer (I'm a rep) in Las Vegas with a customer that's put well over $12,000 into the audio system in an S10 pickup. The guy was consistently hitting 152 dB. As with many SPL junkies, he wanted more, but didn't know what else to do. I recommended he try Dynaplate to reinforce his "Sprite can" roof. He applied two layers of Dynaplate, a layer of Xtreme and a layer of 1/2" Dynaliner. He increased a little over *3.5 dB*. This guy would have spent a ton of money (again) to gain 3 db, but managed to do it for under $1000. 

He was blown away, and while I'm sure he would agree that it was truly "magical," I don't believe you'd hear him call it "BS."


----------



## nothinbutnick56 (Mar 28, 2009)

sqoverspl said:


> WOW I couldnt even imagine spending over 500 on deadening much less 1000


agreed. $100 to do problem areas. I spent most on shop towels id put behind panels so they wouldn't rattle.


----------



## spork (Jul 1, 2008)

$30.
I need to do a LOT more, I guess I've just been too lazy.


----------



## Attack eagle (Nov 18, 2006)

$12,000

(I bought a newer, quieter, vehicle  )


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol attack


----------



## jittyz (Oct 27, 2009)

i only deaden my trunk and front 2 doors


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

I get my deadener for free. Good things come to those who waitAnd my truck is like a luxury sedan on the inside so little needs to be done. I've done the problem spots in my front doors and need to do the rear doors and panels over b-pillars to cut down on resonances at high volumes. Also need to put polyfil behind all the panels.


----------



## Mahna Mahna (Mar 2, 2008)

Have 36 sq.ft. of Dynamat Xtreme in the car and still have to do the doors.


----------



## lil goat (Oct 16, 2009)

The sounddeadeningshowdown treatment, still need to do the trunk and every other car I own or anyone who is related to me owns, Rudeboy is the man!


----------



## NJcdn (Oct 30, 2009)

I'm at 6 rolls af RAAMmat over two vehicles + foam & liquid SS. Easily $500+. But it works...


----------



## jimp (Jul 12, 2009)

have used bout 1/2 a roll of rammatt bxt, other half in the closet waiting on me to get bored and do the rear doors (maybe)


----------



## 67Dylan (Mar 21, 2008)

I have a complete layer of Dynamat on floor, sides, roof. A layer of MLV on the floor and sides of the car. I have luxiury liner pro on the firewall [layer of damplifier on firewall as well]. Next will be a layer of spectrum sludge on the front fenderwells, a little up the firewall and the front section of the car. The doors has a layer of closed cell foam as well. I've stopped much noise in my car and can identify the last few area's that need 'help'. 
The thing I noticed right off the bat was how much more music I could hear. While driving it has quieted down tremendously I can still hear motor related noise. I hoping the sludge will stop that.


----------



## blackedout (Nov 13, 2009)

A roll of BXT, a package of BXTII, some dynamat, and 5 yards of ensolite for now.


----------



## wiseman454 (Nov 30, 2009)

What method are they referencing in this quote?

"For years everyone would just lay layer upon layer of sound deadening on their car and wonder why they were getting mediocre results, until Don came along with a new approach"

Could someone elaborate?


----------



## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

wiseman454 said:


> What method are they referencing in this quote?
> 
> "For years everyone would just lay layer upon layer of sound deadening on their car and wonder why they were getting mediocre results, until Don came along with a new approach"
> 
> Could someone elaborate?


using smaller tiles to reduce rattles instead of one big peice over every surface possible. If you get a peice of mat covering the big flat parts of the surfaces that you know resonate, you really dont' need to cover the rest of the panel to stop it from vibrating. I think he still has a sound file on his site of someone hitting a piece of metal with a hammer and then putting a peice of MLV over just the center. When you listen to it it's apparent you don't need to cover the whole thing to stop it.


----------



## Menace Kustoms (Jan 31, 2010)

I'm waiting on tax return money to make my order from SDS. I will be at just about $600 total including a roll of MLV from a local source.


----------



## lil goat (Oct 16, 2009)

To check out the Don aka Rudeboy method, see the sounddeadedningshowdown site. It works, Dynamat and the like are NOT sound deadening products they are vibration damping products, multiple layers serves no purpose other than to make you car heavy. You need a sound barrier, Mass Loaded Vinyl and closed cell foam work very well, sheets of lead would be better but rather problematic to work with. Lots of places sell all the components to do it, but few of them have a guy like Don to help you, he is Rudeboy on this forum. I am lucky enough to live near him, he helped me do my Pontiac Solstice convertible, now there is a challenge but he did it.


----------



## thechainrule (Feb 2, 2010)

Just spent $250 at SS. Gonna give the luxury liner pro a try in my Jeep.


----------



## sqcomp (Sep 21, 2009)

I'm on my 6th bulk pack of Stinger Expert Roadkill, used almost ten yards of Ensolite, used a little 1/2" Dynaliner...

I've still got to do the back deck and drop the headliner.


----------



## John_Chricton (Apr 16, 2009)

Probably around 400. More than I needed to. Went way overboard doing the cabin floor.


----------



## Mike12312 (Feb 10, 2010)

$30 so far for 25sq ft from ebay.


----------



## SQfreak (Feb 13, 2007)

I can't even begin to calcaulate how much I've spent on sound deading. I mean.. I know I spent $400 twice on a truck I had redoing it. I would guess I'm somewhere in the 6-7K range maybe? I'm not even including installs I've done for family members too that I paid for. As if stands now, I have a few rolls of SS Dam laying around, few hundred feet of closed cell foam and tons of small/half rolls of BXT, CSD, eDead and Org Dynamat Extreme. Once you get hooked into this hobby it no longer becomes insane to fully deaden every car you own. 

So for me that's ~2k per car, changing a car every 3 years or so, being doing this for 16 years...see what I mean? Oh and factor in getting married, now that 2 cars to deaden.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol that sounds like my kind of installs


----------



## meccanoble (May 20, 2009)

250-300 not including my trunk but I was also involved with IB project...


----------



## NRA4ever (Jul 19, 2010)

I used the current prices of dynamat in my $100 vote.I had all the stuff in my Ranger left over from the F150. I spent around $600 on my F150 I bought a bunch of damaged Dynamat cheap & I did all the labor


----------



## oslouie (Jul 6, 2010)

NRA4ever said:


> I used the current prices of dynamat in my $100 vote.I had all the stuff in my Ranger left over from the F150. I spent around $600 on my F150 I bought a bunch of damaged Dynamat cheap & I did all the labor


Too much spent in the past. My current build is going to be as cheap as it gets. Wait... you'll see why.


----------



## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Lil over 6,000 on the lear


----------



## [mikamouse] (Aug 2, 2008)

stinger roadkill and acoustimat on specific areas @ under 100USD. same quality for less


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

I spent $90 just last week, as yet uninstalled. I know I'll be spending another $150 or so.

That expenditure will be sufficient to do my doors and my roof. We'll see what happens after that, but I'm not anticipating spending much more as I'm not fanatic enough about this to remove the entire interior of my car.


----------



## illcrx (Nov 11, 2010)

Ive just used Dynamat, what is your favorite form of deadening? Brands and non-traditional methods?


----------



## singleuse (Oct 17, 2010)

I've used a bunch of the Cascade Audio products. 30 cans of Quietkote under the floorpan and wheel wells, 2 sheets of VB-3 lead liner on the floorboards, a roll of marine engine box liner stuffed into every nook and cranny in the dash, kicks, transmission tunnnel, etc. Dynamat Hoodliner. Also lots of dynamat extreme and dynaliner. Last thing I did was 1/16" lead sheets under the floorpan--4lbs per sq. ft! Bridgestone Turanza Serenity tires. My car is spooky quiet but I'm still looking for that last Improvement.


----------



## illcrx (Nov 11, 2010)

Single Use have you tracked your gas mileage with all of that weight? Im curious to see how much it goes down, if its not that much Im on board with much more deadening.


----------



## singleuse (Oct 17, 2010)

illcrx said:


> Single Use have you tracked your gas mileage with all of that weight? Im curious to see how much it goes down, if its not that much Im on board with much more deadening.


It might have gone down slightly. When driving it feels like a have another passenger in the car. Overall, not as bad as you would imagine. I have an economy car and still get 33mpg on daily commute.


----------



## illcrx (Nov 11, 2010)

What kind of car do you drive? 33 MPG is pretty good.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

I think the rule of thumb is 1 MPG for each 100 lbs.


----------



## sqcomp (Sep 21, 2009)

I'm about to add to my deadening...

I'm looking at shotting my A-pillars and playing with the headliner itself...not the roof, which is already DEAD...but the headliner especially where the A-pillars meet it. Man! There is SOOO much energy transfer going up and down the pillars, it's just stupid.


----------



## chu (Jun 4, 2009)

SQfreak said:


> I can't even begin to calcaulate how much I've spent on sound deading. I mean.. I know I spent $400 twice on a truck I had redoing it. I would guess I'm somewhere in the 6-7K range maybe? I'm not even including installs I've done for family members too that I paid for. As if stands now, I have a few rolls of SS Dam laying around, few hundred feet of closed cell foam and tons of small/half rolls of BXT, CSD, eDead and Org Dynamat Extreme. Once you get hooked into this hobby it no longer becomes insane to fully deaden every car you own.


^^^ 

I've spent roughly 1300 for my current build and its fully deadened. I think I spent roughly $3000 thus far in just deadening materials.


----------



## mdechgan (Dec 16, 2010)

Sound deadening
Would I recommend it? Yes, is it worth it? Maybe. Does it really help or make a difference? So so.

The damping material only helps to deaden the metal and vibrations. If one really wants a quiet interior it is better to just use some polyfill, insulation or that stuff contractors use to lay under carpet.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

using pollyfill or insulation or anything of the sort is still sound deadening. vibration dampeners like second skin damplifier or dynamat extreme ect ect are just one type of sound deadening.... doing anything to make your car house boat whatever quieter is sound deadening


----------



## steffanan (Dec 9, 2010)

dual shop pack of damplifier pro baby!


----------



## maKe| (Sep 12, 2009)

2 bulk packs of Silent Coat, approx 86 sq ft. 14 sheets of Silent Coat noise isolator 8, approx 43 sq ft.

Total = ~250€ spent, time to start installing. :O


----------



## rufast (Aug 7, 2010)

i'd like to hear some of the cars that are installing four figures worth of deadening. i have spent five figures to lighten up one of my cars though.


----------



## Jmirage (Nov 23, 2010)

Rudeboy said:


> I think the rule of thumb is 1 MPG for each 100 lbs.


So if I put 1500 lbs in my suburban, I will get 0mpg?  :laugh:


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Jmirage said:


> So if I put 1500 lbs in my suburban, I will get 0mpg?  :laugh:


Pretty sure that's not completely linear


----------



## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Just finished deadening the front doors. Dynamat+Dynaliner, $75. Very good value IMHO, but I am feeling tempted to buy a 37 sq ft kit of raammat and some ensolite and do the rear doors, rear floor, and trunk. Overall, my expense will be under $200.


----------



## bigdaddy'76 (Nov 29, 2010)

I've already spent a few grand and will be spending more. Not to mention, crazy man hours!


----------



## 87FoRunner (Jan 7, 2011)

I'll have around $200 in the Tacoma extended cab (mild build) and budgeting about $1000 for the GMC Extended cab (extreme build)


----------



## jlh2003 (Dec 14, 2010)

130$ on 100^ft of fatmat and another 40-50$ for raamate ensolite


----------



## SoundJunkie (Dec 3, 2008)

I am at about $600 and counting!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## morabors0 (Feb 25, 2011)

have not started yet but plan to spend about $200


----------



## Commissionmip (Jan 27, 2011)

FoxPro5 said:


> Just doing a little market research as a potential vendor. I'm sure it will be interesting to see how this ends up. Should help Anthony, Rick, and others, I'd imagine.
> 
> 
> "Sound deadening" for this poll includes anything and everything related to vibration or noise control: mat, foams, whatever.
> ...


I drive a 07 Pontiac grand Prix and I can honestly say I went through 3 DYnamat bulkpacks on just my trunk, rear deck, front/rear doors and under the back seat (reduce the exhaust noise) and I'm not finished, because now I'm sick of the engine noise. The bad part about american cars is that their interior is 90% Plastic!!!


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

I planned on one $200 order. Since then, I've been ordering about $200 worth each paycheck (twice a month). Hopefully this fourth one will be enough. I've found in the TL that not only do you have to do the metal but all of the plastic pieces need it as much if not more than the metal. Car is sounding better and better though. If feels like I can listen to music at higher volumes for longer periods of times without as much fatigue. Bass sounds slightly tighter too.


----------



## Jprice2708 (Feb 12, 2011)

When I voted I had spent $350... now I'm halfway through the install and I ran out of materials, so make that $700, plus adhesives, so about $800 so far... :laugh:


----------



## 1blualti (Mar 1, 2009)

ive spent about $150 on my trunk, rear deck, and rear seat...plan on spending another $250 for headliner and entire floor sound deadening...


----------



## bbotelhoHI (Mar 7, 2011)

as of today, im a little over $120 deep in just CLD tiles. gonna pick up some cache deadener for other parts of my cab. still need insulation matting to replace what came out of the truck. also gonna be picking up some ensolite or similar product for the floors, door skins, and door panels. as well as an open cell foam to back the rest of my interior paneling in my truck. when its all said and done, maybe $500 or so? idk.


----------



## south east customz (Jan 17, 2011)

To do an entire car, it's about $900
But that is ENTIRE car including roof, floor 

most people are happy minus floor and roof and that's about $575


----------



## raamaudio (May 4, 2005)

At the price of BXT II and Ensolite, get some tie wraps, silicone sealer, a bit of sheet metal of access holes, etc....you can deaden the hell out of a vehicle of a very reasonable cost but the smaller the vehicle, simpler the install(massive bass requires much more deadening) the less it costs.......

I spent over $600 at distributor price on the tC Time Attack/Audio Comp install just for the foam I filled the body cavities with. I did not use much mat, instead I used a bunch of aluminum channels and the foam, then lots of Ensolite, probably $1k in materials. 

But, over 200 hours in labor, my labor rate back then was $50 an hour, $10k I could of made working on installs so I guess I really had around $11k into the deadening. 

Since it was a race car I could not just add a bunch of mat, that would of been very easy compared to what I did, maybe 20 hours of work, less money, etc....but by carefully removing all the weight I could, starting with a bare chassis after I stripped the car completely apart, it weighed close to 200 lbs less than stock, with a roll cage, two race seats, comp audio system, super charger, big brakes, wing, splitter, oil cooler, IC, etc.............and most of the interior.

My Vette convertible, 06, 335 rear tires, 285 fronts, pretty close to a ZR1 clone, next mod will have nearly that much power but NA, I have approx 250 retail in deadening and it is very quiet except when I get on it, killer exhaust kicks in and sounds so sweet

I make Alumalite baffles, filler plates for the huge access holes and use some aluminum channels on the door skins so I can save as much weight as possible. The tunnel and floor do not need much work, they are quite solid, behind the seats needs some and then there is the rear, it need serious help, most of the deadening goes back there. My mid level Vette deadening package, using my plates, baffles, etc.... only adds around 20 lbs to the car but reduces cabin noise dramatically!

To make it even better I added a bit of mat and quite a bit of Ensolite in the rear wheel wells when I had the fender liners off for the wide body install. I put more Ensolite on the liners, on both sides as well. Then when installing a built differential and exhaust I used some thermal insulation on all applicable areas, it is 1/8" fiberglass with aluminum on it, made for high heat locations. I put it on the 1/4" ceramic coated tunnel plate as well as lined the sides of the tunnel with a fiberglass less version. 

Since the last materials are highly reflective they will not reduce noise nearly as much as something like Ensolite with the open face that breaks it up but they will help decouple some of the energy from effecting what they are attached to. 

Corvettes are hot, very noisy and come with horrid Blose systems, with a bit of work, using the right audio gear and deadening materials and methods you can transform them for very little added weight, around 40-45 lbs including speakers, amps, sub, enclosure, deadening......and the sub/enclosure is easy to pull for track days

For most installs, mat and foam and a few local hardware store items will do all you need for a very reasonable cost, for special circumstances other measures and materials may be required. (with a single Arc 15, sealed, the tC would do 138.4db on a music track over a 2 minute average time period without any distortion at all. The enclosure is 2.2 cubes and only weighs 20 lbs empty)

Why am I posting methods that use very little of my products? Because I believe in only selling what the vast majority of us really need and when other alternatives are better, saying so. (I guess I will list the world champions that have used my methods and materials on my website someday

Time to get to work, Monday is always busy and I took most of the weekend off so now going to be a very long day, helping my fellow enthusiasts achieve their goals

Rick


----------



## raamaudio (May 4, 2005)

I have around $200 retail in deadening my Duramax double cab, high output midbasses requiring more deadening in the front doors, have not done the floor yet, rear doors sealed up well, back wall done well, around 4sq ft of 2.5" low cost acoustical foam from PE stuff inside the dash and the truck is very quiet. I can barely tell it is a diesel on the road and it is not a stock diesel. 

It is not how much you spend, it is doing the work with the right materials that makes the biggest difference, INSTALL, not just tossing a ton of stuff into a vehicle. See the HOW TO guide on RAAMaudio.com. That guide is from years of experience, thousands of feed backs, talking with true pros in the audio industry, testing, measuring, common sense, etc........

It was written with my old BXT, BXT II is at least 50% more effective so less is needed, just strategically located, does the job. Most installs are fine with 50-60% coverage focused where it is needed the most, behind speakers, middle of larger less supported sections, sealing up access holes, etc...... When building a higher powered system comp level install, etc, then more is needed but if planned out and done right still not a huge amount of material. 

I have considered selling other types of materials but found over the years I can do all I really need with just the basic mat and foam with great install methods and simple to get local hardware stuff. I keep is simple which frees up much more time for other things like the tens of thousands of emails a year I write guiding others on achieving their goals for the least cost and work possible. 

Now I really have to get to work

Rick


----------



## skategote (Feb 6, 2011)

Second Skin.com is best available and cheap -300US for 80sqft, delivery to oz a ***** but still good price overall


----------



## SHOToonz (Sep 18, 2007)

ya'll makin me feel bad....a few years back i went through and *REMOVED* every ounce of sound deadener from my car that i could...and now, being dirt poor, i can't afford to go back through and quite the burbling beast down some...


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

why did you remove it? weight savings?


----------



## oldsoulnewroll (Mar 12, 2011)

Just got done with all but my roof in my 02 crew cab(100 sf). $89.99 Protectowrap from menards, it is a 45mil product with some kind of white face coating and a layer of foil in there. I am no pro but I would not hesitate to use again. I have been in construction for some years and this stuff is awesome and the effect was felt..


----------



## SHOToonz (Sep 18, 2007)

yeah...everything i pulled, i put into a box and weighed it. all sound deadening and useless brackets came out to around 135lbs. made a noticeable improvement in handling and overall performance, but now that i'm older and wiser(?), i'm realizing that minor difference may not have been worth the performance, especially in my 235hp mid-90s performance sedan. on the plus side, i now have a clean slate to work with!


----------



## ungodlyrooster (Mar 24, 2011)

Not enough. About $60, for 20ft^2 of damplifier. I'm not sure how people get so much deadener in their doors though.


----------



## flexdmc (Aug 14, 2009)

I spent about $150 on Dynamat at a local stereo shop because I wanted it on the spot and I didn't know about some other brands at the time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## raamaudio (May 4, 2005)

I can actually say, millions, really Of course I sold the vast majority of it!


----------



## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

about 176 and some change

pack of the on sale raamat, 5 yards of ensolite, and a dynamat door kit that i scored off of ebay for about 24 bucks shipped. 

the build hopefully starts early next week, assuming i make it off the operating table ok in the morning....


----------



## Food Wizerd (Mar 26, 2011)

I'm just in the planning stages of my project but I expect I'll spend more than most: I'm planning an sq install for a semi which will be used to pull a 5th wheel.


----------



## SoulFly (Mar 15, 2011)

i just use this rubber roofing type sheet from menards, you use a butane torch over it to tack it down. its far cheaper and made an excellent vibration damping imo anyway. a little carpet padding on top and it worked miracles for cheap though i had a hard time getting panels on my car to go back on cause their so tight.
i heard Seal n Peel works good too.
i've used AT&T splicing repair stuff, its a butyl rubber with a tar based rubberized backing...got it free but probably costs a lot. 3M i think makes it


----------



## Eastman474 (Jan 8, 2010)

Well about $300 in raamaudio bxt2 , about $50 in raamaudio ensolite, and a little bit in Mlv, although I might be buying something new to run under the sub enclosure to isolate it from my bed and stop rattle..


----------



## samos69 (Mar 8, 2011)

$350 NZD so far, this is the first vehicle I've ever deadened so waiting to see the results once I'm done and the new system is in


----------



## backpachyderm (Dec 17, 2010)

I can add to this now since I just sent Ant about $800. Hell, the $0-$100 choice barely covered shipping on the 173lbs.


----------



## aranawhite (Mar 14, 2011)

backpachyderm said:


> I can add to this now since I just sent Ant about $800. Hell, the $0-$100 choice barely covered shipping on the 173lbs.


is that for a room or vehicle? i'll read back and see if your the food guy with the semi sq going on


----------



## aranawhite (Mar 14, 2011)

Ultimate Electronics is closing, so 2 door kits of the stinger expert road kill, 12' per box; should've been $94. a box, i paid 30. 12 square feet is almost enough to do one door. i did the outside pan last night, hope to do the inside mess of holes and wires today. good weather a short work day and a heat gun. *??*does anyone recommend covering the large holes with a wood patch before matting the entire inside door pan?


----------



## aranawhite (Mar 14, 2011)

aranawhite said:


> Ultimate Electronics is closing, so 2 door kits of the stinger expert road kill, 12' per box; should've been $94. a box, i paid 30. 12 square feet is almost enough to do one door. i did the outside pan last night, hope to do the inside mess of holes and wires today. good weather a short work day and a heat gun. *??*does anyone recommend covering the large holes with a wood patch before matting the entire inside door pan?


saw the wood patch on u-tube, passed on it after all.


----------



## aranawhite (Mar 14, 2011)

Dampen the floor of a truck, yes or no? it's a four door, should back floor be done?


----------



## dsauce16 (Feb 2, 2011)

125 shipped on a 62.5 sq ft roll of audio wrap...got a deal that was too good to pass up on. sealed all four doors and had enough to do inner and outer skin with 1-2 layers. anybody else use audiowrap and how did u feel it compares to the bigger names out there?


----------



## tRidiot (Jun 29, 2006)

aranawhite said:


> saw the wood patch on u-tube, passed on it after all.


I cut two pieces of sheet metal and sandwiched them with butyl rope between. Used a heat gun and smashed 'em together, then screwed the 'sandwich' to the door covering the holes.

Still now want to cover it all with layers of mat and have a ton of foam and vinyl sitting by to create a barrier.


----------



## samos69 (Mar 8, 2011)

aranawhite said:


> Dampen the floor of a truck, yes or no? it's a four door, should back floor be done?


I've got a four door ute (truck), I'm putting down mlv on the floor as a barrier for road noise, it's pretty solid already so I don't think dampening it would do much.


----------



## samos69 (Mar 8, 2011)

aranawhite said:


> saw the wood patch on u-tube, passed on it after all.


I use mcdonalds trays (bought not stolen ) to cut to shape and seal doors. Cheap, weather proof and fairly solid even before dampener is applied.


----------



## Exo5168 (Dec 4, 2008)

Just crawled out of my 2011 Camaro. Everything is done except the roof and the trunk ... I think I'm not going to do the roof. .... but tomorrow the last of the Roadkill get's put in the trunk .... and no, I don't race or anything so I don't care to terribly much about weight.


----------



## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

I've got a 2002 Infiniti QX4. I built fiberglass plugs to seal up my doors, and have them covered in spectrum sludge, with the edges sealed to the door using extruded butyl rope. I have a whole bunch of second skin SPL tiles in the vehicle already, and soon will be adding 20 SDS CLD tiles. I'm also now going to add about 100 ft^2 of MLV (backed with closed cell foam) among other things. I want as close to complete isolation as I can possibly get.


----------



## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

None !!! Not yet ...


----------



## Commissionmip (Jan 27, 2011)

So after going through a few bulk boxes of Dynamat I finally decided to give Hushmat a try and don't get me wrong Dynamat was perfect for the job. I just couldn't find any when I needed it yesterday.
One thing for sure is that the Hushmat is easier to work with, but HANDS DOWN 

-*Dynamat is much more durable, (Hushmat rips easily) 
-Dynamat sticks to the surface better, (I applied hushmat to the inner door yesterday and the edges were peeling today. TRUST ME I applied it correctly.)
-The foil backing is alot thicker than the black backing on the Hushmat.
-The rubber/butyl/ or what ever the black material is, is much thicker than the Hushmat.*


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

were u using dynamat original or extreme


----------



## Commissionmip (Jan 27, 2011)

EXTREME of course. I dont even think they sell the original anymore. I actually never seen the original in any of the store I go to.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

hmm ur right i remeber seeing it myself but it was a few years back. guess they realized it was ********


----------



## Wheres The Butta (Jun 6, 2009)

emperorjj1 said:


> hmm ur right i remeber seeing it myself but it was a few years back. guess they realized it was ********


it was SO not extreme


----------



## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Is Stinger Roadkill basically the same as Dynamat Extreme? [yes, I searched]


----------



## blackedoutavy (Dec 10, 2010)

$800 on Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner, and Overkill and some Spectrum for fender wells.


----------



## splaudiohz (Apr 1, 2011)

Less than 200.00 and it is super sound. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ttle-sound-deadening-mustang.html#post1298215


----------



## derekbannatyne (Nov 14, 2007)

Less than a 100 for my Passat, used the ED audio stuff.


----------



## alglez (Jun 6, 2011)

36 sq ft of stinger deadening to cover the whole single cab truck


----------



## argetni (Jul 25, 2007)

$100


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

About $750 on second skin so far. Just in front of the front seats. Overkill, but my goal is dead silent while driving. I dont compete, so my listening time is spent in motion. Dash is completely ripped out, deadening going all the way up to the bottom of the windshield.

45 sf luxury liner pro
90 sq damp pro
27 sq overkill
1 gallon spectrum, for front wheel wells
1 gallon sludge for complexly contoured areas

There will be more later, on the doors, rear floor, trunk, rear quarters, rood etc.


----------



## SoulFly (Mar 15, 2011)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> About $750 on second skin so far. Just in front of the front seats. Overkill, but my goal is dead silent while driving. I dont compete, so my listening time is spent in motion. Dash is completely ripped out, deadening going all the way up to the bottom of the windshield.
> 
> 45 sf luxury liner pro
> 90 sq damp pro
> ...


just curious, but have you achieved what you hoped out of it or do you think now that as you kept adding more you notice less improvements?

i was considering going overkill to some degree in mine, but i'm curious to know if at some point is reached where it just doesn't make as much difference anymore.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

yes there is a point of no return.... mixing products helps this thou


----------



## gnesterenko (Mar 17, 2011)

ABout 2x more then I intended to. But once all the panels were off and my first batch of Secon Skin Audio products was all spent.. and there were all these empty spaces, just couldn't let that slide. So got some more. Still had some spots. So got some more. No more spots... in the trunk...


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

SoulFly said:


> just curious, but have you achieved what you hoped out of it or do you think now that as you kept adding more you notice less improvements?
> 
> i was considering going overkill to some degree in mine, but i'm curious to know if at some point is reached where it just doesn't make as much difference anymore.


I havent had a chance to listen yet, as the cars been down a couple months now. Its my first build, so I'm going slow as I learn. I 100% agree with the next post after yours though, that the more different types of materials, densities, thicknesses, etc, the better it will turn out as you'll have more chances to quiet down different frequencies. 

I'm using damp pro as my vibration damper, with spectrum sludge to fill in some hard to reach areas, with spectrum on the outside of the car (floor, wheel wells, trunk tub). Then I'm going back with luxury liner pro, overkill, overkill pro, and open cell acoustic foam to fill in gaps and holes where sound could come through.


----------



## gnesterenko (Mar 17, 2011)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> I havent had a chance to listen yet, as the cars been down a couple months now. Its my first build, so I'm going slow as I learn. I 100% agree with the next post after yours though, that the more different types of materials, densities, thicknesses, etc, the better it will turn out as you'll have more chances to quiet down different frequencies.
> 
> I'm using damp pro as my vibration damper, with spectrum sludge to fill in some hard to reach areas, with spectrum on the outside of the car (floor, wheel wells, trunk tub). Then I'm going back with luxury liner pro, overkill, overkill pro, and open cell acoustic foam to fill in gaps and holes where sound could come through.


I assume it goes without saying that you should be careful with the open cell acoustic foam and moisture buildup (mold!)


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

should be ok inside the car. doors and engine bay probably not a good idea


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Affirmative. All open cell will be going inside the car in dry areas. If you can find bikinpunks build, his entire dash is stuffed full of open cell. I plan on following that lead, along with some other areas which I'd like to quite down. One thing that bugs me is the idea of having my car be quiet, and the ac being loud as hell. That happens considering its over 100 degrees here usually.


----------



## joe tenza (Jul 3, 2011)

About $120 worth


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Affirmative. All open cell will be going inside the car in dry areas. If you can find bikinpunks build, his entire dash is stuffed full of open cell. I plan on following that lead, along with some other areas which I'd like to quite down. One thing that bugs me is the idea of having my car be quiet, and the ac being loud as hell. That happens considering its over 100 degrees here usually.


true but you win some you loos some right? i agree the one thing i wish i had done was a foam in the big empty chambers in my car


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Very true. My wind noise will always be a little higher, unless I decide to pull the trigger on some carbon fiber doors that add a frame to the door windows. Im hoping that the foam stuffed into the dash, plus the entire hvac unit being covered in a layer of LLPro, will keep the fan noise in.

I was actually surprised how much a layer of damp pro quieted my hvac ducts while blowing an air gun through it. That hollow plastic tube sound is much much different and quieter now.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

i dont have any pics but in my cobalt the air ducting is all pieces that are sorta just press fitted (at best) together. i applied more then enough damp pro on them but honestly i didnt notice a difference. but i wasn't looking and my car had been pretty quiet for a while before that

what do u mean by carbon fiber door panels for wind noise? i dont know what car you have but i have a layer of damp pro covered by LLP on my exterior metal door panel and most of the noise is gone. i do get some thru the window itself but not much i can do about that


----------



## Xmaximum (Aug 7, 2010)

Currently ~$350 however mostly will increase to $450 in couple of weeks from now 

BTW, Its all Dynamat Extreme


----------



## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

emperorjj1 said:


> yes there is a point of no return.... mixing products helps this thou


That's: 'point of diminishing returns'.

FTFY


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

lol ya thats what i meant


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

My car has frameless windows, which are horrible for keeping wind noise out. At best, it still wont be as good as a door with a full frame around the window. There is a company that sells carbon and fiberglass doors for my car (for racing), they incorporate a frame around the entire window opening. This, combined with lexan side windows (which should be quieter than glass) would help eliminate the wind noise. I'd actually probably just get the fiberglass doors, and have a local company redo them, beefed up for a daily driver.


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

ah i get it now. lol i was thinking it was some kind of roll cage type deal in the door or something


----------



## Spyeleven (Oct 20, 2011)

We make loot's of spl funny setups for very low budget


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

really ur proud of that? thats liek saying oh **** u bought a steak dinner for 60 bucks well ur stupid i got ramen for 1.25 from walmart and got just as "full"


----------



## redbaronace (Sep 27, 2011)

emperorjj1 said:


> really ur proud of that? thats liek saying oh **** u bought a steak dinner for 60 bucks well ur stupid i got ramen for 1.25 from walmart and got just as "full"


I would say, if it works and is in your budget, use it.

Peel n Seal gets a bad rap, but it works and I have never experienced seeing it melt in any real world situation. I once took a heat gun (not hair dryer) to it when forming it one time when it was cold outside. It did start to slightly run but that is way hotter than my car would ever get naturally. I do not foresee a situation where 200 degrees of heat would otherwise be applied directly onto it. Yes I have seen the internet photo of the car with the "supposed" Peel n Seal melted onto the bumper. But, this is the internet folks. Who knows what the user had done to apply it or if is is just propaganda from folks who would stand to benefit from discouraging others from using it. Point is, many have used it successfully with great results. SO if you never tried it, don't knock it.

Would it fail in normal conditions? Probably not based on my climate (Pacific Northwest). Would it fail in Death Valley? I cannot say. People need to choose based on what they feel is proper. If the choice is between Peel n Seal and Dynamat Extreme, its obvious which one is better. But if its between Peel n Seal and no sound deadener, I would choose the former.

On a related note, it also doesn't smell badly either. For me it was only during application and then none since.


----------



## matthewo (Jan 31, 2008)

Peel n seal is made to go under roofing. So you know how hot thatcan get. I have taken a lighter to it, and heated it up with a big 500 watt work light and got some stuck on the glass housing.it melted there but that was way over 200 deg.

Anyways, i have used it and it works ok. Not as good as buytle based ones, but still ok. You need to heat it and clean the surface and roll it on good. But still the buytle stuff sticks better. Peel n seal gets weak durning the winter.

Some of the old dealeners like e-dead v1 were just asfault based too


----------



## redbaronace (Sep 27, 2011)

matthewo said:


> Peel n seal is made to go under roofing. So you know how hot thatcan get. I have taken a lighter to it, and heated it up with a big 500 watt work light and got some stuck on the glass housing.it melted there but that was way over 200 deg.
> 
> Anyways, i have used it and it works ok. Not as good as buytle based ones, but still ok. You need to heat it and clean the surface and roll it on good. But still the buytle stuff sticks better. Peel n seal gets weak durning the winter.
> 
> Some of the old dealeners like e-dead v1 were just asfault based too


That is my point exactly. Its my thought that this product will not fail for most real world car applications when prepped for and installed correctly.

Are there better products out there, undoubtedly. But if this is the only product within a persons budget, then by all means, use it. After all, not everyone is into car audio to the same degree and for some the cost vs benefit for the more expensive products is not justified.


----------



## ANT (Oct 15, 2005)

redbaronace said:


> That is my point exactly. Its my thought that this product will not fail for most real world car applications when prepped for and installed correctly.
> 
> Are there better products out there, undoubtedly. But if this is the only product within a persons budget, then by all means, use it. After all, not everyone is into car audio to the same degree and for some the cost vs benefit for the more expensive products is not justified.


 
For Peel and Seal to be installed correctly, it must be applied on a roof of a building.
There is no "correct" way to install it in a car. None that will prevent it from failing. No matter what you do, if you use asphalt, and it reaches its thermal limit, the product will fail. It makes no difference how it is applied.
Ice melts above its freezing point, and asphalt does the same. Melting it, then freezing it to the surface of your metal car will not prevent it from melting again once it heats up. Asphalt does not cure with heat. It only liquifies.

ANT


----------



## redbaronace (Sep 27, 2011)

DIYMA said:


> For Peel and Seal to be installed correctly, it must be applied on a roof of a building.
> There is no "correct" way to install it in a car. None that will prevent it from failing. No matter what you do, if you use asphalt, and it reaches its thermal limit, the product will fail. It makes no difference how it is applied.
> Ice melts above its freezing point, and asphalt does the same. Melting it, then freezing it to the surface of your metal car will not prevent it from melting again once it heats up. Asphalt does not cure with heat. It only liquifies.
> 
> ANT


I am only stating my real life experience with the product. Others may have different experience. Prior to going that route, I did research and found that the overwhelming majority of those who have used it are in fact happy with their outcomes. It was from reading about these positive experiences that I applied it to my own car. It has held up well thus would say that my experience with it has been very good. It should be noted that I applied the product primarily as one measure for noise reduction (not stereo sound quality).

Is it better than other products which cost more, probably not. But, when applied correctly it works well and seems to hold up.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

redbaronace said:


> I am only stating my real life experience with the product. Others may have different experience. Prior to going that route, I did research and found that the overwhelming majority of those who have used it are in fact happy with their outcomes. It was from reading about these positive experiences that I applied it to my own car. It has held up well thus would say that my experience with it has been very good. It should be noted that I applied the product primarily as one measure for noise reduction (not stereo sound quality).
> 
> Is it better than other products which cost more, probably not. But, when applied correctly it works well and seems to hold up.


Asphalt performs so poorly that it is a not a good value even if you ignore the potential for failure. Since you get a better result using much less of a more capable product, there is no argument to be made for asphalt. The problem is that most of those endorsing it don't have any experience with anything else. They mistake slightly better than nothing for "works well".

The failure issue isn't completely cut and dry. It's not guaranteed to fail, but it is guaranteed to either fail or become even less effective than it was when new, as the VOC's evaporate. Sort of a race between failure modes.

The problem is that it can take 3 or more years for the product to fail. Many of the people who used to support using asphalt have come back after time and stated that it failed. I can promise you that a great many more have either not discovered the failure or haven't bothered to report their problems.


----------



## htdoc (Dec 23, 2009)

I'm currently not using a lot of sound deadening in my truck doors. Just a little bit of 3 layer sound deadening and foam from parts express...

My last vehicle I went nuts on... drove the car home from the dealership, picked up my sound measurement gear and spent two days running tests driving down the road at various speeds to measure noise in the vehicle.... 

after getting a lot of great "before" measurements, I stripped the interior to the bare metal... fully treated it and added so much treatment the carpet panels needed to be remade custom so you couldn't tell it had been altered. Went back out and ran the same tests... had an average 30dB drop in noise in the car... I wish I'd put the system in the car when it was stock instead of installing after treating it... I would have liked to measure and hear the improvements... as it was, it was a stupid good sounding system... still couldn't avoid the noise infiltrating from the glass, but everywhere else on the car did a great job taming noise...


----------



## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

htdoc said:


> I'm currently not using a lot of sound deadening in my truck doors. Just a little bit of 3 layer sound deadening and foam from parts express...
> 
> My last vehicle I went nuts on... drove the car home from the dealership, picked up my sound measurement gear and spent two days running tests driving down the road at various speeds to measure noise in the vehicle....
> 
> after getting a lot of great "before" measurements, I stripped the interior to the bare metal... fully treated it and added so much treatment the carpet panels needed to be remade custom so you couldn't tell it had been altered. Went back out and ran the same tests... had an average 30dB drop in noise in the car... I wish I'd put the system in the car when it was stock instead of installing after treating it... I would have liked to measure and hear the improvements... as it was, it was a stupid good sounding system... still couldn't avoid the noise infiltrating from the glass, but everywhere else on the car did a great job taming noise...


See, now THIS is the kind of exhaustive effort that's missing from our modern society! There are far too many people who are content with the status quo and never, ever do anything to change it.

[deleted rant about giving up freedom and security in exchange for convenience...]


----------



## htdoc (Dec 23, 2009)

at the time, I was commuting 195 miles a day for work... so I wanted a quiet car and good sounding system... it kept my sanity... the mileage check from work more than paid for the car, the maintenance and the stereo that got installed in it.... those were the days of low gas prices and inexpensive vehicles... I nearly passed out when the wife started looking at new cars recently...


----------



## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

between 3 cars i think i would have spent around 1000-2500 per car maybe not that much on one of them but the other two my 5 series bmw and my jeep every panel has at the very least 2 layers of dynamatte extreme and in a few place also sum dynalite and also sum dynapad and dynaliner im a bit of a dynamatt freak i figure if its good enough for chip foose its good enough for me im not paying retail however

Ren
xMplar


----------



## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

but its beeter to over deaden then put the car together and find that one f*&kin rattle that you cant find nor get to if you do find it
imo

Ren


----------



## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

I put fart mat in my f150 2 years ago double layered in some places, triple layered in others. This was before I knew anything about sound deadening and figured that any product out there would work if you used enough. Here 2 years later, I no longer have the truck, but I do still have some Fat mat left over on a roll from that install. And I **** you not, that stuff has SHRUNK a good 1.5" from the edges of the wax paper. And this is with the roll being in my garage away from all of the elements.


----------



## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

In trailblazer I spent around 200-300..

I'm about to start on my g35 coupe so it might be a lot more since that car has a lot of road noise....


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

aztec45 said:


> In trailblazer I spent around 200-300..
> 
> I'm about to start on my g35 coupe so it might be a lot more since that car has a lot of road noise....


Road noise? I thought that Infinity was a luxury car... 

Kelvin


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

It may be that the wind noise is so much quieter, that the road noise seems louder. 

I know my neon and my wifes 2011 civic measure about the same according to motor trend. But, hers is easier to quiet with sound deadening, since mine is mostly wind noise, and hers is road noise.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

subwoofery said:


> Road noise? I thought that Infinity was a luxury car...
> 
> Kelvin


I've been amazed at the number of Infinity owners I've heard that from.


----------



## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> It may be that the wind noise is so much quieter, that the road noise seems louder.
> 
> I know my neon and my wifes 2011 civic measure about the same according to motor trend. But, hers is easier to quiet with sound deadening, since mine is mostly wind noise, and hers is road noise.



Most of g35 have no wind noise, well mine has no wind noise, the window goes up TIGHT to the door frame when you shut the door.

But it has a lot of road noise, but I'll fix this soon


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

That's exactly what I meant. Where in cheaper cars the road to wind noise ratio is much more balanced, the infinity has no wind noise, and therefore road noise seems loud by comparison.


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

FWIW..... My TL uses acousti glass for the windshield. Once, when the insurance replaced it with a regular $180 windshield, I couldn't figure out where all of the new road noise was coming from. I eventually figured out the windshield was not acousti glass and once they replaced it with an OEM windshield the noise was gone. What surprised me is I had assumed this type of windshield was to lower wind noise, not road noise. It was explained to me that the windshield amplifies vibrations from road noise in the chassis. The gel in the center damped this vibration.

The last time I had it aligned, the mechanic forgot all hardware holding the plastic underside panels on. I had to drive to LA immediately after leaving the shop and about 5 miles into my drive I heard a noise and smelled burning plastic. I was in a suit and on the side of the freeway at the time and had no way to work on the car so I ripped the remaining plastic panels that were hanging down off the car. This made a significant difference in wind noise believe it or not.

After using damplifier and Luxury Liner Pro over most of the car, the noise making it through the side glass became obvious. It was never noticed before and now it sounds like the windows are barely cracked. Now I see why my friend's CL65 Mercedes uses the double pane glass in the sides.


----------



## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> That's exactly what I meant. Where in cheaper cars the road to wind noise ratio is much more balanced, the infinity has no wind noise, and therefore road noise seems loud by comparison.


I've noticed in sporty luxury cars the road noise seems to be higher than a pure luxury car. Compare a Lexus IS350 to an ES350. My friend got an IS350 with the sport suspension package. Driving one with and without the sport suspension showed a very noticeable difference in road noise probably from firmer subframe and suspension bushings.


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Yeah, im willing to say that most wind noise comes from the side glass and seals, and the wheel wells. Surprisingly, a lot of "road noise" from the floor is actually caused by wind as well, as it circulates underneath and catches on all the rough edges. When I was driving 120 miles a day I was experimenting with aerodynamics, when I was testing an undertray under the central part of the car there was a huge reduction in noise from the floor. Being that it was made of corroplast, and it wasnt thick enough or dense enough to block noise, I can say with confidence that it was the smooth surface that helped.


----------



## Mooresound (Jan 17, 2012)

100 ft roll of ebay mat. two layers on florr and trunk. bulk pak of stinger on doors.


----------



## mikelycka (Apr 4, 2008)

im with most of you the 100-250 range is about right. now higher end car to have more sound matting in them than cheap cars that why they are more quite when driving them others


----------



## psy4s (May 23, 2011)

Ok so I have moved above the norm, and I am getting ready to order another batch of LLP to finish inside of my Doors and Trunk. I think I have an addictive problem, but I am sure NAT doesn't mind. This is the last I have to buy, I hope.


----------



## F150_TX (Jan 28, 2012)

$700-$1,000 so far. Only thing left is the roof(probably not) and the wheel wells(maybe).


----------

