# BMW "562" E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Hey guys, finally starting to collect pieces for my stereo build. 

A little backstory, I'm a metal fabricator by trade and cars are my passoin. My car was originally a 528, the original engine went south so I decided to swap in a crate LS3 engine. 




























Now that the engine swap is pretty much finished I'm starting on a stereo build. I had originally installed a DLS 2-way and eD amps and 2-12" subs. 

My plan now is a full CarPc, Zapco amps and DSP, HAT components and Fi audio IB3s. CarPc is pretty much done, amps and subs are ordered, door builds will come later. 

I got a Janus Designs DD bezel










A capacitive 7" touchscreen in a ByByte DD frame



















I'll be running Win 8 as my interface, I found it to be the most fluid interfaces out there.... I tried them all. Lol

I'll be updating as I go, and I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions for you guys.


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

Swapping in a Corvette motor in your BMW that is awesome. 

Stereo sounds like it shoul be a nice one too.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

This ERA of 5 series are my favorite. I suppose it is more like a 540i on steroids now???


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

AudioBob said:


> This ERA of 5 series are my favorite. I suppose it is more like a 540i on steroids now???


Much more than a 540. It put down 430hp to the wheels, so more like an M5 on steroids. Lol
I've put E60 M5s to shame. It's a FUN car.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

My boss has an M6 and it is an absolute beast of a car. Looking forward to seeing your build.


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## SACRAMANIAC916 (Apr 9, 2011)

sick car!


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## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

ive been around cars most of my life and have worked on many many cars, but this just stopped me in my tracks, there are some german guys who if they saw this would probably faint, but wow! really nice job,one of my all time favorite years and body styles. i would love to drop this off at the bmw dealership for an oil change just to see their reaction. cant wait to see the audio! Kudos!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

this super nice build man!!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

:snacks:


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Wow loving the engine swap sir, very nice.


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Not sure which I'd rather hear more...the stereo or the engine?
Subb'd for an epic build!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks for all the compliments guys. 



sinister-kustoms said:


> Not sure which I'd rather hear more...the stereo or the engine?
> Subb'd for an epic build!


Well, I can help with one of them. 

Ls3 e39 exhaust - YouTube


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Man, I wish I hadn't watched that video. It really make me regret getting rid of my Genesis Coupe (which would have gotten an LSx swap after it was paid off).
My favorite 5 series body style also.
Can't wait for the audio.

Jay


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Jfreak said:


> Thanks for all the compliments guys.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


DANG, that's like sex on wheels.


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## mr.metoo (Feb 20, 2010)

Awesome engine swap, can't wait to see the rest of the build


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Jfreak said:


> Thanks for all the compliments guys.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Damn! If I didn't know how infectious 'caraudioitis' is, I'd say to hell with the system. That kitty PURRRRRS!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

sinister-kustoms said:


> Damn! If I didn't know how infectious 'caraudioitis' is, I'd say to hell with the system. That kitty PURRRRRS!


Right now, it has no stereo. So even if I wanted to listen to music I couldn't, I love the sound, but for long trips it gets boring... Until I floor it. Haha


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Subs should be here next week.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

UFFF.... e39. Best 5 series ever... this ones even better.


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## azagtoth502 (Jan 27, 2012)

Hella cool engine sawp


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Consider me subscribed!!!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks guys. 

I'm gonna start getting my layout figured out soon. I'll lay the amps out on the floor in a few different configurations to see what I like, I'll try and post up pics to see what you guys like. It'll be a false floor install.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

So here's a few layouts I tried this morning

#1: 



















#2: 










#3:



















#4: (mount 150.2s and DSP under rear package tray)



















#5: (not sure it'd work with a false floor)










What do you guys think? If you think of any other layouts you think would look good I'll try my best to recreate it and post a pic.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Subs are here


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i have so many buddies who would hate you for putting an american motor in a euro car. i on the other hand love it. american muscle shows no boundaries. can't wait to see what you do with the audio man


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## ReloadedSS (Aug 26, 2008)

All in all, E39 is my all around favorite BMW model line. Classic looks that age beautifully. Well sorted handling, very sporting but comfortable. GM tried to copy many parts of that chassis in the G8, which also could have been had with the small block...one of my favorite engines. So much torque and flexibility, just pulls and pulls.

This combo is tops.


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## Mike Troll (Dec 14, 2006)

Jfreak said:


> So here's a few layouts I tried this morning
> 
> #4: (mount 150.2s and DSP under rear package tray)


This is what I would go with. 

Sweet car, love the LS Swap...one of the guys on the local racing forum I run just sold his similar year 3 series with an LS Swap and a T56.


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## stylngle2003 (Nov 2, 2012)

is the youtube video your car? if so, the taillights seem to have an intermittent flicker.
But it sounds sweet. I bet that thing flies. E39 is my most lusted-after car, I'd say.
Wish I could swing an M5, but compared to what you'd pay to get in one, your version makes much more sense. Lightly modded M5s generally put down 340-360whp, so yours is a good 100hp more stout than that. Nice.

LS swaps are getting more and more common, but to me they never get old.

Nice gear, can't wait to see the install.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks guys, I sell kits to do the swap too if anyone's interested. Lol

I think this is the design I'm gonna go with, clean and simple. 



Jfreak said:


> #1:


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

stylngle2003 said:


> is the youtube video your car? if so, the taillights seem to have an intermittent flicker.
> But it sounds sweet. I bet that thing flies. E39 is my most lusted-after car, I'd say.
> Wish I could swing an M5, but compared to what you'd pay to get in one, your version makes much more sense. Lightly modded M5s generally put down 340-360whp, so yours is a good 100hp more stout than that. Nice.
> 
> ...


Yup, the vids are all my car. The flicker is from LED bulbs, the car has "hot check" that tells when your bulbs are out, which you don't notice with regular bulbs.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> Thanks guys, I sell kits to do the swap too if anyone's interested. Lol


What trans did you use? Any chance of a T56 or T6060? lol

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> What trans did you use? Any chance of a T56 or T6060? lol
> 
> Jay


I used a TCI 6X (4l80e), I have a tr6060/t56 mount too.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

When you did the swap, you only did the engine or anything else? (transmission for eg.) 

Kelvin 

Edit: tranny answered lol Anything else?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

subwoofery said:


> When you did the swap, you only did the engine or anything else? (transmission for eg.)
> 
> Kelvin
> 
> Edit: tranny answered lol Anything else?


I make long tube headers, and swapped in a LSD.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Interesting  Thanks for sharing 

Kelvin


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Was the LSD from an M5?

The E39's have an IRS, don't they? There was a guy over on Gencoupe.com (Genesis coupe forum) who was swapping an LSx, T56 and a new Camaro rear end. Any chance of that? I don't own an E39, but I like to see whats available, lol. He claimed the stock Camaro rear would handle 1000 hp.

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> Was the LSD from an M5?
> 
> The E39's have an IRS, don't they? There was a guy over on Gencoupe.com (Genesis coupe forum) who was swapping an LSx, T56 and a new Camaro rear end. Any chance of that? I don't own an E39, but I like to see whats available, lol. He claimed the stock Camaro rear would handle 1000 hp.
> 
> Jay


Yah, M5 diff. 

Yes the E39s have IRS
There's a couple guys that're retrofitting ford 8.8 diffs into their cars. I've seen a stock M5 diff hold up to 800rwhp, so I don't see the point of swapping another diff in other than availability of parts and ease of rebuild.


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

awesome engine and tranny. Any chance the larger amps would fit standing in the side pockets of the trunk (basically north and south)? Just seems like a perfect spot to put an amp and save some trunk. subd for this build.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> Yah, M5 diff.
> 
> Yes the E39s have IRS
> There's a couple guys that're retrofitting ford 8.8 diffs into their cars. I've seen a stock M5 diff hold up to 800rwhp, so I don't see the point of swapping another diff in other than availability of parts and ease of rebuild.


No, I suppose not. I didn't know the M5 diffs would take that.

Any build pics of the engine swap somewhere?

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> No, I suppose not. I didn't know the M5 diffs would take that.
> 
> Any build pics of the engine swap somewhere?
> 
> Jay


Starting my swap... - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Yeah, I did some Googling and found it on my own. I'm on page 3. lol
I thought others might be interested.

Jay


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Is that a first gen Camaro in your garage?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> Is that a first gen Camaro in your garage?


Yup, that's my dads 67 camaro getting a LSx 454 and pro-touring suspension. I'll post pics of that build when it starts going back together. We're replacing rear quarters, roof, doors, fenders, floor, firewall.... Should be one of the cleanest camaros around here.


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## themoloch (Feb 9, 2013)

Hello, where did you get that 7" capacitive screen? I'm building a CarPC right now and can't find a capacitive one.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

themoloch said:


> Hello, where did you get that 7" capacitive screen? I'm building a CarPC right now and can't find a capacitive one.


Touch Displays, LLC


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

A layer of alpha damp in the trunk










Started laying out the baffle too










The false floor will be to tall by about an inch, so I'm modeling the trunk up in solidworks to see how much I'll need to angle it to clear.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

A rough rendering of the baffle board, the big block it sits on is the top of the false floor.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

freaking sweet!


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

That would look cool!! mean it out with grills...


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## duro78 (Dec 24, 2011)

Hows the noise level in the cabin after the swap? One complaint ive heard about ls swaps is its quite difficult cutting down on the cabin noise. I mean overly loud, obviously hearing that beast is part of the point.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Glad some people can understand the drawing... A lot of people don't get it. Lol

Cabin noise is actually not bad at all, the exhaust is isolated pretty well. If I wanted it quieter I could put a resonator in the mid section and get bigger mufflers. 

This shows cabin noise best of all the vids I have. Ls3 E39 - YouTube 
I have another one of the first drive, but there's a lot of gear whine from a bad trans mount.

* disclaimer, vid was taken on a private track, not on public roads.


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## duro78 (Dec 24, 2011)

Thats not bad at all. Awesome work looks oem.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> So when I was up at Wong's we were discussing the AC system, he mentioned that Hinson had figured out a way to get the can bus system to work with the GM systems with microprocessors. So it got me thinking, could the same be done for our cars?
> 
> The reason this interests me is I'm pretty sure my Ac pump requires a can signal to turn on, not just a simple switched circuit that I could rig up myself pretty easily.
> 
> ...


I saw this on your build thread, and thought it might be of interest to others on this forum too. When I had my Genesis coupe there was a guy who was doing an LSx swap and made a CANbus adapter of some sort, so I imagine it could be translated/or modded to work in your application too.

I'm no expert, but from what I've seen, it appears that CANbus is somewhat standardized, so hopefully it wouldn't be too bad to do.

Take a look at NeilJ's Car Pc Build thread. He's doing some pretty sweet stuff in his Mini with Arduinos. There is also a link I posted to the Hackaday site where it gives you a design for a circuit to build a CANbus sniffer (so you can read CAN-based functions in the car.) Might be useful.

But regardless, CANbus will communicate between modules, but eventually where it needs to actuall interact with something (relays, switches, etc.) it will usually have to have an output of either +, - or possibly multiplex...which should be duplicate-able without using CANbus (like turning on your AC pump.)

And if I'm wrong hopefully someone will chime in. 

Jay

Edit: OK, so apparently after reading the last 10 pages of your build thread, there are different speed CANbus variations, and the GM CANbus is somewhat proprietary. Learn something new every day.


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## cyrusthevirus23 (Feb 16, 2013)

this is very sweet you got the power to the wheels and now the stereo setup great job


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I started reading his build thread over on bimmerforums. That led me to RVAE34's 427 LSx/Tremec T6060 E39 Touring wagon. I don't own a BMW, I don't *plan* to own a BMW, but I keep reading LSx swap builds...
Someday I will have to do one, on something. Maybe I'll pick up another Genesis Coupe someday when they're really cheap and do it. Although an LSx swapped 318ti could be fun. hehe


Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> I started reading his build thread over on bimmerforums. That led me to RVAE34's 427 LSx/Tremec T6060 E39 Touring wagon. I don't own a BMW, I don't *plan* to own a BMW, but I keep reading LSx swap builds...
> Someday I will have to do one, on something. Maybe I'll pick up another Genesis Coupe someday when they're really cheap and do it. Although an LSx swapped 318ti could be fun. hehe
> 
> 
> Jay


His car is gonna be crazy. He's shooting for 600rwhp naturally aspirated. 

Turbos might make their way under my hood someday.


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## stylngle2003 (Nov 2, 2012)

he is local to me. that car is an absolute beast.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I find myself reading threads about LSx swaps all the time...S-10's, BMW's, Genesis Coupe's, etc. It's becoming almost as big an addiction as car audio, lol.

The before and after of that BMW wagon are amazing. I'm not a fan of brown, but on THAT car it looks awesome.

Anyone know if those are real Volks on there, or are they Varrstoen's? They look the same but are about 1/3 the price.

Jfreak (Josh, right?) The kit you used for the touchscreen mount/bezel...is that from MP3car.com? I know there was some German company that made a double din bezel for the 3 series, so I wondered if it was the same.

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> I find myself reading threads about LSx swaps all the time...S-10's, BMW's, Genesis Coupe's, etc. It's becoming almost as big an addiction as car audio, lol.
> 
> The before and after of that BMW wagon are amazing. I'm not a fan of brown, but on THAT car it looks awesome.
> 
> ...


They're varrstoen reps. 

Yah my name is Josh, the bezel is from Germany, company named Janus Designs. It's the best looking unit I've found to date.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I just wondered about fit and finish. I had to work on an E46 M3 convertible that someone in Texas had hacked a double din nav into, and did a horrible job. If the customer comes back before he ruins the car, I might suggest he change it up. Obviously a different kit between the 5 and 3, but I would imagine if it's the company I'm thinking of, the quality would be similar. In the 3 you have to cut out part of the duct under the radio, and it's a very precise operation to clear the blend door mechanism.

BTW, watched the dyno video of your car and it sounds AWESOME.

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Rough cut of the floor out of cardboard. I'm getting rid of all that cheap black plastic so I can mount the base solid/properly.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Rough cut










First fit










Needs a little sanding, but looks killer. Made some metal brackets to mount to, didn't get pics tho... Nothin special anyway.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the base board sanded to fit perfect, 1/8" all the way around for upholstrey. I put the mock up baffle in there and my original amp layout looks funny, the 2kd and 400.2 differ in length by an inch... Looks off balance (forgot a pic)

So here's a couple more layouts

#1




























#2


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Well, if you are going to have a trim board over the amps you could make the holes slightly smaller than the amps, and symmetrical, thus hiding the extra length that throws it off. 

Just a thought.

Jay


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## indytrucks (Apr 5, 2009)

I like #2.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> Well, if you are going to have a trim board over the amps you could make the holes slightly smaller than the amps, and symmetrical, thus hiding the extra length that throws it off.
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> Jay


Not a bad idea. 



indytrucks said:


> I like #2.


Thanks for the vote

I think #1 looks good with the DSP in the middle, doesn't look as empty.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

So I decided to make the baffle board much more shallow, allowing for more trunk space... That is half the reason I'm doing IB anyway. 

I know it's not cut right, I cut it to my original plan and decided to change it but didn't have enough cardboard to re-cut










And this will be the layout



















We'll see how long this plan stays in motion. Lol


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## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Why not do a baffle that fits flush behind the seats like I'm doing, they do fit... just curious. 

Here's my WIP baffle:



What can't be seen is the 3 other layers of 3/4" birch ply, for a total 5 layers. Stiff and sturdy!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Why not do a baffle that fits flush behind the seats like I'm doing, they do fit... just curious.
> 
> Here's my WIP baffle:
> 
> What can't be seen is the 3 other layers of 3/4" birch ply, for a total 5 layers. Stiff and sturdy!


Looks good Tim! 

I'm doing something different with my baffle mostly for clearance to the false floor, but also a little more style/flash.


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## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Looks good Tim!
> 
> I'm doing something different with my baffle mostly for clearance to the false floor, but also a little more style/flash.


Gotcha... really looking foreword to how this plays out!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the baffle close, still needs fine adjustments. 


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

cool idea kerfing' the center.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks, I saw a video on how to do it by a member here, thought I'd give it a shot. Looks killer I think.


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Sub'd. Awesome car Josh! I'm a bimmer and a Zapco fan so your build is very exciting for me. It's looking very good so far.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Holes are cut, glueing, glassing and filling the kurf


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Mmm... Ready for some HAT porn next weekend?

"Hey there Josh, 
Just wanted to let you know that I got the email telling me that the speakers are enroute and on the way. I would expect them to arrive on Monday or Tuesday. I will let you know as soon as they arrive. Thanks again for the business."


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

More progress on the baffle while I wait for the glue to dry before gassing. 

Reinforcement/trim rings



















Threaded inserts










The inserts hold tight, was able to wrench on them pretty good. But I'll wait to glue the rings on until I get the baffle and subs installed to see how much force I can comfortably put on it.


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## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Looking great, Josh! I must say, craftsmanship is top-notch! Starting to come together quite nicely back there. Those subs are looking meaty!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks Tim. Can't wait til it's all done.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the rear shelf deadened/sealed, gonna use expanding foam to seal all the large voids and cavities. Also got the baffle glassed, had to heat my resin before applying, but it's not 100% dry yet and is crazy sturdy.


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Pics please


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Didn't get pics of the deadening, I'll get pics of the glassed portion of the baffle tomorrow.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Couple pics after some sanding



















Interior getting gutted for cable runs


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the carpet out, started pulling the main power wire out... Oh man, shoulda done more research on what I was getting myself into. Lol 
There's a solid conductor that snakes through the double walled firewall, the factory power wire is the OD of 2/0 but has a conductor that's barely 0ga. But I got the wire off and will be running at least 1 run of 2/0 wire, 2 runs if I have room. 

Got a crimper and ANL fuse blocks in today too, just need tech flex.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Tried out the crimper, it's SOLID!










More goodies



















Rivnuts installed for the baffle board










Brackets, there'll be a total of 8-10 planned so far










I only have 4 installed right now and it is stout for sure.


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## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Yeah, Josh... do let me know about what can fit through those door wiring sheaths. I am thinking the oem wiring is fine for the L1s and L3s, but for the L8s I'd like to use 16g or 14g. 12g doesn't appear necessary for the L8's... I'm using 10g for the subs.

Oh, and do you happen to know what the fuse recommendation is for the z-150.2's?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Yeah, Josh... do let me know about what can fit through those door wiring sheaths. I am thinking the oem wiring is fine for the L1s and L3s, but for the L8s I'd like to use 16g or 14g. 12g doesn't appear necessary for the L8's... I'm using 10g for the subs.
> 
> Oh, and do you happen to know what the fuse recommendation is for the z-150.2's?


Will do Tim. 

Not sure on the 150.2s they have 2 25a fuses on the side, so I'd guess 50a. I'll take a look in my book and see if it mentions fuse ratings.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Why do you guyz need to know the fusing of an amp? 

Kelvin


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> .


Does the minus sign mean pregnant or not pregnant?:laugh:


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## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Jfreak said:


>


There's nothing like some good ANL.


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## rob3980 (Jun 11, 2010)

Jfreak said:


> Much more than a 540. It put down 430hp to the wheels, so more like an M5 on steroids. Lol
> I've put E60 M5s to shame. It's a FUN car.


That's sick I'd take a run at ya I got a 08 535xi that FBO let's just say m5s are surprised


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

subwoofery said:


> Why do you guyz need to know the fusing of an amp?
> 
> Kelvin


I plan to fuse all the power wires between the battery/distro and amps, that's why I'd like to know the recommended fusing.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

rob3980 said:


> That's sick I'd take a run at ya I got a 08 535xi that FBO let's just say m5s are surprised


You'd get me off the line with AWD for sure. There's a couple built STIs around here that think they have me just because they beat me off the line... Then I get traction and make them cry. Lol


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Mmm... Ready for some HAT porn next weekend? "


Ready!!!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> Ready!!!


Me too. Lol unfortunately HAT sent my guy the wrong tweeters, so it's probly gonna be next weekend.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> I plan to fuse all the power wires between the battery/distro and amps, that's why I'd like to know the recommended fusing.


Correct answer 

Kelvin


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## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> Does the minus sign mean pregnant or not pregnant?:laugh:





Dmack said:


> There's nothing like some good ANL.


:rimshot: :laugh: I about spit out my coffee...



subwoofery said:


> Why do you guyz need to know the fusing of an amp?


Since I asked...

I'll be running a +/- 300a ANL inline fuse off the battery (depending on final amp choice/power demands) with 1/0g power wire that runs to a dblock. Then it splits up into (3) 4g outputs to my front stage amps, and a 1/0g that goes to another dblock for the sub amp. It's here where I want to know what fuse I should run for the z-150.2's.

Since I have large gaps in knowledge on this subject, I turned to online chart/calculators for this sort of thing, and what I came up with, was about a 20a fuse (mini-ANL, of course) for the z-150's, an 80a for the z-400.2, and a 100a for the SSRef1.1000 I'm using.

Soundstream recommends 150a inline for that amp though, so I want to know what Zapco recommends for their amp as well, hence my question. I don't have those amps in my possession just yet. I thought I remember reading AC John mentioning what he recommended somewhere, but I couldn't find it.



Jfreak said:


> I plan to fuse all the power wires between the battery/distro and amps, that's why I'd like to know the recommended fusing.


Yup!



subwoofery said:


> Correct answer
> 
> Kelvin


Yay!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

This is what's I'm my manuals (iPhone pics)


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## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

I was told by an installer that if you don't know the recommended fuse rating of the amps you're using then you should add up all the fuses on the amps and add 10% to determine what size fuse to use. Is this true?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> I was told by an installer that if you don't know the recommended fuse rating of the amps you're using then you should add up all the fuses on the amps and add 10% to determine what size fuse to use. Is this true?


That's what I've always been told.


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> I was told by an installer that if you don't know the recommended fuse rating of the amps you're using then you should add up all the fuses on the amps and add 10% to determine what size fuse to use. Is this true?


I would like to know this.

I don't care if the 150.2 is fused internally. I'm going by the rule that whenever you step-down power wire, in my case 1/0g>4g, one ALWAYS uses an inline fuse for protection.

Pacific Grove, eh? I lived there as a kid, and man do I miss it. I rode through there on my motorcycle 2 years ago, and wasn't surprised that it hadn't changed really all that much. Man I love that place...


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I'll run a 50 or 60a on my 150.2s... Probly 60.


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> I'll run a 50 or 60a on my 150.2s... Probly 60.


Hmmm, while going through the Zapco thread, I found this from AC John regarding the z-150.*6*...



ACJohn said:


> I don't recall the efficiency, but maximum draw on that should be about 150 Amps.
> I am not recommending a 150 Amp fuse. A 80 Amp wafer up front should be way more than enough. If you're using fast blow glass I might go to a 100 amp. I assume you're using this for music listening. The chances of you ever pulling full power out of this amp long enough to blow either of those fuses are pretty darn slim.
> *Bigger wire/smaller fuse...protect your car!*


I'm gonna shoot him a PM


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

It is rigid! Gonna add 2 more brackets, for the peace of mind, for a total of 10. I push/pulled on the sub magnet/baskets, rocked the whole car and didn't see any flex.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Inside view with half the seat closed


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Whew, been a crazy couple weeks but I'm chipping away at the car. 

Got my battery in, and it is a tank










New run of 2/0 from the firewall back to the battery, properly crimped, techflexed and terminated with heatshrink










Base board cut out for the amps, gotta make brackets and do some milling with the router. 










Stiffened up with some angle iron... I can stand on it with minimal flex










Picked up a large box....










Z8R



















Tweeters










Mids










Midbass










Another large box... Door panels and carpet 










Had to make sure it'd fit










Knu fuse and ground block



















That's it for now... Update again as progress is made.


----------



## Derekj (Aug 11, 2011)

Jfreak said:


> Knu fuse and ground block
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The new Knu stuff looks pretty sweet!

Install looks great too. Keep up the good work!


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Awesome!

Those look suspiciously like M5 panels, are those a recent acquisition? You probably have more interior parts than you can shake a stick at right now at your place... :laugh:
(BTW, someone we know managed to a least find the Alcantara sunroof slider a couple days ago... )

What are you doing for battery terminals? I'm probably just going with the brass terminal posts, but those Toolmaker terminals are pimpin'...


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Awesome!
> 
> Those look suspiciously like M5 panels, are those a recent acquisition? You probably have more interior parts than you can shake a stick at right now at your place... :laugh:
> 
> What are you doing for battery terminals? I'm probably just going with the brass terminal posts, but those Toolmaker terminals are pimpin'...


Yup, got extended leather panels and black carpet for cheap. 

I don't plan on using terminals, I was going to use ring terminals held on by the bolts. Not sure toolmakers would work on this battery, unless you got some kind of extension block, I thought about the same and may still get some if the ring terminal idea doesn't work out. 
I might be having him make me some custom lugs for my amps though....


----------



## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Jfreak said:


> Rivnuts installed for the baffle board


where do you get these rivnuts from... ??


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

mattyjman said:


> where do you get these rivnuts from... ??


McMaster


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Yup, got extended leather panels and black carpet for cheap.
> 
> I don't plan on using terminals, I was going to use ring terminals held on by the bolts. Not sure toolmakers would work on this battery, unless you got some kind of extension block, I thought about the same and may still get some if the ring terminal idea doesn't work out.
> I might be having him make me some custom lugs for my amps though....


Nice!

Forgot to ask, but where do you plan on mounting the Z8-R?


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Nice!
> 
> Forgot to ask, but where do you plan on mounting the Z8-R?


Not sure yet, my interior is still gutted. My first thought is the dash area, I'll try a few spots when I get it back together.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Been thinking about making my own RCAs... Until I saw this

Wirez Interconnect Shootout - YouTube

I'd like to see a comparison of wirez and knus RCAs


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Been thinking about making my own RCAs... Until I saw this
> 
> Wirez Interconnect Shootout - YouTube
> 
> I'd like to see a comparison of wirez and knus RCAs


Are you having noise problems now? errr, when you last had working audio, did you have any alt whine or other noise?

Just curious, because while I'll be switching to some new Knu's for the runs from the head unit, the cheap Stinger flat 6-ch RCA's currently in my car do not introduce much in the way of noise. They only time they do, the connection at the amp is loose or something (temp install). They run along the left side of the car. I did have noise once, but it was a bad channel on the amp I had at the time (JL). I haven't found the e39 to be particularly noisy car compared to others, particularly given BMW's reputation for noise. 'Course, all cars are different animals in this department...

I'd say if you want to make your own RCA's, go for it.


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> Been thinking about making my own RCAs... Until I saw this
> 
> Wirez Interconnect Shootout - YouTube
> 
> I'd like to see a comparison of wirez and knus RCAs


Really interesting... Might have to try some of their RCA for my horn system 

Kelvin


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I had stingers 6000 series in my last install and they were loud to say the least, not impressed with their stuff. Never used Knu's stuff, but heard they were good. My supplier just started selling wirez stuff and told me to check out that vid and I think I'm sold. 
The only reason I wanted to make my own is for custom lengths, I despise the look of sloppy, excess cable.


----------



## neo_styles (Oct 18, 2012)

I'll chime in here saying the build looks amazing so far and I'm sure you'll be nothing short of impressed with your setup. Those Fis in IB should sound incredible.

A word of caution regarding Knu's RCAs: some are more prone to noise than others. I've gone through the eKs, Klarity, and Krystal and, while each can pass its dielectric testing and resistance checks well enough, they've all put noise in my (and a friend whom I trust's) system. I swapped out amps, rearranged wiring, and the noise remained. I've seen others who have had the same issue, but I know it's not 100%. However, I know that @ge_off_me and I have been very pleased with the Premium Quality RCAs from Audio Technix. User-serviceable endcaps, good clean solder points, and well-insulated jackets. They look great, to boot. Granted, they're more expensive than a lot of Knu's offerings, but I tend to stick with what works for me. At this point, the only two brands that haven't let me down have been AT and (I hate to say it) Monster. I'd also give a serious look at Vampire Wire as that is what my overly picky friend has found works best for him.


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> I had stingers 6000 series in my last install and they were loud to say the least, not impressed with their stuff. Never used Knu's stuff, but heard they were good. My supplier just started selling wirez stuff and told me to check out that vid and I think I'm sold.
> The only reason I wanted to make my own is for custom lengths, I despise the look of sloppy, excess cable.


Interesting. Like I said, I'm using cheap Stinger's and they are quiet in my car. I've had Knu's Kristal RCAs for over a year now, but haven't installed them since I haven't removed my interior yet. I hooked them up briefly with the RCAs running along the outside of the car before connecting to the amp, and they were quiet too. No noise was introduced into my system by RCAs, regardless of which ones I used. Maybe I'm just fortunate like that in this regard.

That said, those Wirez look like nice cables. I'm intrigued. I'd probably have to do (2) 2-ch Sig series since the 4-ch wire only comes in 17'. The 12' length is enough running down the center column. Let me know what they cost, since there are no dealers out here.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I PMd you the prices I got Tim. They're more expensive than Knu's stuff by a little bit.


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Pacific Grove, eh? I lived there as a kid, and man do I miss it. I rode through there on my motorcycle 2 years ago, and wasn't surprised that it hadn't changed really all that much. Man I love that place...


I love it here too. Great place to raise the kids and so beautiful. 

Sorry for the off-topic


----------



## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> I PMd you the prices I got Tim. They're more expensive than Knu's stuff by a little bit.


Can you please PM me the prices for those Wirez? Thanks  

Kelvin


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Ran new wires for the L8 and L3s, going to use stock wires for the L1s. 

12 & 16ga through the OEM door plug



















Various pics of the runs throught the car



















Crossed over the vent here to avoid the main power wire as much as possible.


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

I know I'm a little late to the party on this, but I just watched that Wirez vid and they look interesting. Will you please pm me the pricing you got too? Thanks!

Oh yeah, keep up the good work!


----------



## win1 (Sep 27, 2008)

sub'd


----------



## mklett33 (Dec 7, 2009)

Nice the KNF60! I did a review on that bad ass distro block: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R4MAafSoQs


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

mklett33 said:


> Nice the KNF60! I did a review on that bad ass distro block:
> 
> KnuKonceptz KNF60 Distribution Block Review - Car Audio Fabrication CAF - YouTube


Yah I've been exited for it since they released the first renderings of it on their Facebook page. 

And I watched your review of it 20 minutes before I ordered one. Lol


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Put 9sqft of alpha damp and second skins luxury liner pro under the carpet in various spots and put black carpet it. 










Gonna dismantle the dash and put deadening in where I can get to. 

Also got my new battery charger


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Tried a couple places for the Z8R, opinions?


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

I like the first option


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> I like the first option


That's my favorite too, was the first place I tried.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Black carpet and leather door panels installed










Alternator wiring, ready for the new HO alt. 



















Wiring is tedious.... Glad half of it is over. Gonna finish buttoning up the interior so I can drive again, then it's back to trunk fab.


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Looks great Josh!

While you're in there, perhaps as a noise preventative measure, you might consider adding a MSD Noise Filter Capacitor inline to the alternator's positive lead. darrenforeal mentioned this as the only thing that worked with his noise issue in his e34 after he stopped using symbilink.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

EditTim said:


> Looks great Josh!
> 
> While you're in there, perhaps as a noise preventative measure, you might consider adding a MSD Noise Filter Capacitor inline to the alternator's positive lead. darrenforeal mentioned this as the only thing that worked with his noise issue in his e34 after he stopped using symbilink.


Thanks. 
I'm going to wait til the system is operational and deal with noise as I go, but when I get there that noise filter is the first thing I'll try. I'm interested to see how much noise I'll have with the swap.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm re-thinking my door setup/speaker placement. I think having the mid in the door may cause stage/tuning issues. With the mid in the door my leg will be right in front of it, won't that block the sound itself? 
Now, I don't want to do pillar pods, I DESPIZE the look of them and that is my only reason for not doing them. Appearance is more important than SQ to me when it comes to that. 
I'm thinking flush/sunk mounting the mid in the dash, and a press fit grill



















Opinions or suggestions?


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

ask darrenforeal, that's exactly what he has in his e34, with L3se's to boot.


----------



## BrokenBC (Aug 12, 2007)

Jfreak said:


> I'm re-thinking my door setup/speaker placement. I think having the mid in the door may cause stage/tuning issues. With the mid in the door my leg will be right in front of it, won't that block the sound itself?
> Now, I don't want to do pillar pods, I DESPIZE the look of them and that is my only reason for not doing them. Appearance is more important than SQ to me when it comes to that.
> I'm thinking flush/sunk mounting the mid in the dash, and a press fit grill
> 
> ...


Are you sure there is room under the dash to flush mount it? As far as placement goes, you may want to consider putting the tweeter up there as well if you go that route. The less source points you have the better. That has always been the big argument against multi driver setups is the sound comes from different places.


----------



## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

Jfreak said:


> I'm re-thinking my door setup/speaker placement. I think having the mid in the door may cause stage/tuning issues. With the mid in the door my leg will be right in front of it, won't that block the sound itself?
> Now, I don't want to do pillar pods, I DESPIZE the look of them and that is my only reason for not doing them. Appearance is more important than SQ to me when it comes to that.
> I'm thinking flush/sunk mounting the mid in the dash, and a press fit grill
> 
> ...


I think you will give up some stage width if you sink them in the dash there. 

When you say you do not like pillar pods are you refering to big buldges or actual pods that attatch to the pillars. Perhaps both lol. One thing I see with most peoples pillar setups is that they put the speaker ring outside the pillar itself and then fiberglass it to the pillar. The speaker itself resides outside the pillar with just a hole in the pillar to act like a vent. This sometimes really makes them look bulky. With the small neo magnet of thos L3se's you should be able sink the magnetand some of the basket into the pillar thus minimizing the amount of protrusion and bulkiness. This would give you a wider stage then where you are proposing in the dash.


----------



## Orion525iT (Mar 6, 2011)

Jfreak said:


> Put 9sqft of alpha damp and second skins luxury liner pro under the carpet in various spots and put black carpet it.


I see some nice big kick panel area. Surely a 3" mid and a tweeter would fit.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

07azhhr said:


> I think you will give up some stage width if you sink them in the dash there.
> 
> When you say you do not like pillar pods are you refering to big buldges or actual pods that attatch to the pillars. Perhaps both lol. One thing I see with most peoples pillar setups is that they put the speaker ring outside the pillar itself and then fiberglass it to the pillar. The speaker itself resides outside the pillar with just a hole in the pillar to act like a vent. This sometimes really makes them look bulky. With the small neo magnet of thos L3se's you should be able sink the magnetand some of the basket into the pillar thus minimizing the amount of protrusion and bulkiness. This would give you a wider stage then where you are proposing in the dash.


I don't like pods that are molded into the pillar. I talked to Steve at soundstage today and he suggested dash pods. He showed me some pics and I think it'll look really good. 



Orion525iT said:


> I see some nice big kick panel area. Surely a 3" mid and a tweeter would fit.


There's multiple bundles of wires 2" in diameter running behind both kicks and there's also modules behind them that I'd rather not relocate. 



BrokenBC said:


> Are you sure there is room under the dash to flush mount it? As far as placement goes, you may want to consider putting the tweeter up there as well if you go that route. The less source points you have the better. That has always been the big argument against multi driver setups is the sound comes from different places.


There's plenty of room under the dash. I think it's just too much work

Here's the new proposed location 










Also got some pieces made to 90 out of my amps


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

I just had some dash pods made for my truck and I love them. Are you planning on running those on axis without tweeters? I've heard them that way and they sound good with a little eq.


----------



## mark620 (Dec 8, 2010)

Where did you get those angle pc. I need 4 of them...?


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> I just had some dash pods made for my truck and I love them. Are you planning on running those on axis without tweeters? I've heard them that way and they sound good with a little eq.


They'll be on axis and I'll be running tweeters in the sail on axis as well. Probly don't really need tweeters, but I've heard they give it that little extra something up top.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

mark620 said:


> Where did you get those angle pc. I need 4 of them...?


Toolmakers metalworkz made them for me. Get ahold of him via email and ask for them. He's had a few people request them since he made them for me.


----------



## mark620 (Dec 8, 2010)

can you pm his email to me..Thanks


----------



## Stück (Jul 3, 2011)

I have my L3SE's on axis in the stock door location, in the factory housing with a new angled baffle.

I have my L1ProR2 in the sail in custom pods, again on axis.

Staging is just fine....


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Stück said:


> I have my L3SE's on axis in the stock door location, in the factory housing with a new angled baffle.
> 
> I have my L1ProR2 in the sail in custom pods, again on axis.
> 
> Staging is just fine....


Man, honestly, if you can get the L3SE's on axis as you say you have, you don't even need tweets. I am running L6SE's and L3ES's on axis to the driver with no tweets. Dr. Buwalda evaluated the car last week and actually commented on the 3's being too bright above 8K. You might want to run a high pass on the L3's and run the L1Pros about 8K and up, highly attenuated, just for staging cues. 

Just a thought


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> I don't like pods that are molded into the pillar. I talked to Steve at soundstage today and he suggested dash pods. He showed me some pics and I think it'll look really good.


I also am not a fan of pods molded into a-pillars. I don't know if you have seen my pods, but this is how I went about it. 

Since this picture was taken, I have molded in the L3 grills, but I have not uploaded the pics, yet. They look really slick!


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

And I also had defroster vents on the sides of the dash, just like you do. I build my pods to where they seal to the dash, over the vent opening. The L3SE's are actually venting into the defroster vents, making them very happy!!!


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Those look good. Not sure about how I'll vent them, but the defogger is a good idea.


----------



## Stück (Jul 3, 2011)

Food for thought.

Sorry I just don't have a good picture showing the L3SE's


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Stück said:


> Food for thought.
> 
> Sorry I just don't have a good picture showing the L3SE's


That's where I plan to put my L1pros too. I'll just run dash pods for the 3s instead if puting them in the doors.


----------



## Stück (Jul 3, 2011)

I had considered putting the L3SE's there, and running tweeterless, but because I felt the L3SE was awkwardly large there, and the L1proR2's were already paid for... 3 way it is. The L6SE's are installed in the kick panels.


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> That's where I plan to put my L1pros too. I'll just run dash pods for the 3s instead if puting them in the doors.


I'm telling you man, with the L3SE's within 25 degree of on-axis, you will not need tweets. I was skeptical, too, but it is absolutely true. They have great extension out of the box, but after a couple weeks of break-in, these things truly come to life.


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Not to mention that absolute ease of tuning, having a single point source from 250-up.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I already have the L1s, so ill use them. I'm not tuning it anyway, I'll leave that to a pro.


----------



## Dmack (Mar 6, 2008)

Okay man. Having the tweets is certainly not a bad thing--especially if they are in the sail panels. They can certainly give you a wider stage width. However, I would seriously consider crossing the 3's and tweets over really high--somewhere around 8K.


----------



## Stück (Jul 3, 2011)

I have my points at BP 50-250hz, BP 250-5000hz, HP 5000hz. Somewhat limited ATM by the amplifiers on board filters. Once I get the new amplifiers installed and 3 sets of RCA's run I'll be running active off the HU and have a bit more flexibility. I'll try 8k.

OP, hurry up and post some updates


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Updates will be awhile guys, got some mechanical issues to deal with.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Car is back up and running. 
Hopefully I, or a shop near to me can get going on this again real soon


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Updates will be awhile guys, got some mechanical issues to deal with.


What were the mechanical issues?


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Tranny went out.


----------



## Golden Ear (Oct 14, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> Tranny went out.


Gotcha. With the LS motor are you using a crate tranny or is it from a particular car?


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Golden Ear said:


> Gotcha. With the LS motor are you using a crate tranny or is it from a particular car?


It's an aftermarket trans from a company called TCI... With my dealings with them, I wish I would've gone with a different brand.

But it's a 6sp version of a 4l80e truck transmission


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Always sucks when the customer service is a problem, especially with something as expensive as a custom transmission.

Jay


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I recently got motivation to start working on this again, work took over and I'm just getting burned out with back to back projects. 

I've officially decided to DIY the whole project, cheaper and I get exactly what I want. 

I've decided to ditch my previous layout, just too cramped. 
So it's either this










400.2 and 2kd mounted beneath the floor with the 150.2s and dsp on top. Or mount the 150.2s under the parcel shelf and the dsp over the battery to make it really tidy and simple. 

At any rate, the project continues.


----------



## EditTim (Mar 15, 2012)

Josh, here's a quick pic of the amp rack I'm working on to give you an idea on how those 150.2's would fit under the parcel shelf. The aluminum amp rack itself just fits underneath, using the whole width. The 150.2's side by side still have plenty of room to connecting everything as you see...


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks Tim, I may end up mounting the dsp under there too.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

So a little update, so far this project has been nothing but planning and I think I've finally settled on my ideal install. 

I'll be upgrading to L4SEs and L1pro R2s. L4s will be mounted like this:



















The L1s I'll probably install in the A pillar as close to the windshield as possible. 

The trunk I will mount the 400.2 and 2kd under the floor with a removable trim panel, the 150.2s and dsp I'll mount under the rear deck... Might do a few tricks to that amp rack.


----------



## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

wow... that will be cool!


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Updated: 
Been distracted with other toys...


Ordered a htpc case and wireless keyboard


Got it all put together and the PS installed in the same case. 




It'll be awhile before I get to install it, but hopefully I'll get to work on the door panels in the meantime. 
Once I get a daily driver this thing will really go under the knife.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Cool ass build man


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

A few screen shots, getting some software updated/figured out so I can play FLAC, ogg and Mkv video... I like the metro apps







Now waiting on a DD mounting kit so I can install the screen. Need to fix a taillight leak before installing the PC, need some fiberglass supplies and time.


----------



## jensclaudius (Sep 10, 2012)

Jfreak said:


> So a little update, so far this project has been nothing but planning and I think I've finally settled on my ideal install.
> 
> I'll be upgrading to L4SEs and L1pro R2s. L4s will be mounted like this:
> 
> ...


Thats a freind of mines car, sounds REALLY god and the install i sick.
The project is written in swedich but pics are universal 
SQ: Projekt "Sound by Hewi" BMW E39 - Bilstereoforum - Sveriges största forum för bilstereo
SQ: "Sound by Hewi" Bmw E39 Pt II - Bilstereoforum - Sveriges största forum för bilstereo


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

jensclaudius said:


> Thats a freind of mines car, sounds REALLY god and the install i sick.
> The project is written in swedich but pics are universal
> SQ: Projekt "Sound by Hewi" BMW E39 - Bilstereoforum - Sveriges största forum för bilstereo
> SQ: "Sound by Hewi" Bmw E39 Pt II - Bilstereoforum - Sveriges största forum för bilstereo


Small world, thanks for the links. Amazing work he does


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

what screen are you going to end up with?

i approve of the speaker location. maybe you can angle the speakers more on-axis than having them fire into the windshield though? like jason's rad BRZ;

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...gallery/137652-2013-subaru-brz-build-log.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2003959-post747.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2003965-post748.html


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

req said:


> what screen are you going to end up with?
> 
> i approve of the speaker location. maybe you can angle the speakers more on-axis than having them fire into the windshield though? like jason's rad BRZ;
> 
> ...


The main screen when it boots up will be the metro screen, but music is just a click away. I could make it open directly into mediamonkey though. Or do you mean physical screen?

God idea, from pictures it looks like I might be able to sink them down for a more on axis approach. Would having them sunk-in like that affect output/SQ? Or will it be better than facing the windshield no matter what?


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

i mean the physical screen. im trying to find something in the 7~8 inch range that is windows 8.1 compatible - and the only screen that seems to make any sense is vaporware.

Shop | Chalkboard Electronics

really the only way you will be able to tell what is the best way to mount it in your specific vehicle is to try it and listen. i know thats a ****ty suggestion - but i know jasons BRZ sounds phenominal. he scored in the low 80's in the last competitoin at freezefest... when i competed, 80's was a very VERY good place to be. i floated in the mid 70's. on axis will yield better efficiency, thats for sure. 

i tend to look at it this way - more often than not, trying to cut hard reflections as much as possible is never a bad thing.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

req said:


> i mean the physical screen. im trying to find something in the 7~8 inch range that is windows 8.1 compatible - and the only screen that seems to make any sense is vaporware.
> 
> Shop | Chalkboard Electronics
> 
> ...


The screen is a capacitive 669gl, not ideal. Xenarc just came out with a 7" 1024x768 native screen, if they had a bybyte DD frame for it I'd switch in a heartbeat.

http://www.xenarc.com/700CSH.html
1024x600, my bad.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

I found my trunk leak, not a taillight. It's the fuel door lock, the sleeve that the actuator goes through was busted and leaking. Ordered new parts, once they're in I'm gonna make a mold of my spare tire well and start mounting hardware.


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

sweet.

why on earth is it so hard to have a resolution HIGHER than 1024x768 FFS :'(


glad you located your leak bro!


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

So I did a quick comparison



First off, it was absolute bliss hearing any sort of music coming from the car again. Then on top of that, tunes out of killer equipment. 
Anyway, looks like I'm gonna try for a more on-axis approach.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the screen in, fit is alright... Not worth what I paid for it, but oh well. 





Slowly trying to get the trunk back together so I can start building my amp rack, get the PC and "switchboard" unit I'm gonna make put in.


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

nice.

looks like you and i have the same screen. i finally got through to chalk-elec and i paid for a new 7" LCD. it was $163 shipped. resolution is 1200x800 and supports windows 8. i hope it fits inside the bezel that you and i have there. ill let you know. i might have to get some kind of screen protector that is less glossy though - im not sure how bad its going to be lol.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

req said:


> nice.
> 
> looks like you and i have the same screen. i finally got through to chalk-elec and i paid for a new 7" LCD. it was $163 shipped. resolution is 1200x800 and supports windows 8. i hope it fits inside the bezel that you and i have there. ill let you know. i might have to get some kind of screen protector that is less glossy though - im not sure how bad its going to be lol.


Yes, please let me know! I'd love for Win8 to fit on my screen, right now I can't touch exit buttons in the top corners.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Been sidetracked with a couple projects. 
Replacing a thermostat and upgrading my radiator.
Then making this table for my house,



After those are done I'll get back to it. 
Got the volume control in today


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Some stereo updates 

Had some help 



Some fiberglass



some woofer


----------



## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm looking forward to the finished product. Everything looks great so far.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Jfreak said:


>


Crap! What happened to your finger?!?

Jay


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> Crap! What happened to your finger?!?
> 
> Jay


I'm a metal fabricator... Perks of the job. Lol


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Yeah, I hear ya. As a long time installer, I've got my share of scars and injuries including removing about 1/4" off the end of 2 different fingers (once with a tablesaw, once with a razon knife.)

Jay


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Well this project is still alive. Haven't got anything done on the car, 10-18 hr days at work 6 days a week since my last post. 
But, I FINALLY got a DD

Had to do a little upgrade

Fronts are eD 9.65i two ways powered off the deck
Amp is eD nine.2 bridged to a JL 12tw3

Now that I have a daily hopefully I'll start making more progress on the bimmer.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Still alive, getting back to this sadly long project. Just ordered a ridiculous amount of tools from mobile solutions, been binge watching CAF videos, fun stuff to come. 
I've finally sat down and sketched up a plan of attack. Starting with the trunk, move to the doors then "finally" the dash. 
Hopefully it turns out as good as it looks in my head


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got some tools in today, waiting on the router lift still. Need to get the transmission back in and on wheels so I can get my workspace setup.


----------



## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

nice.

are you still putting them in the dash?

we did something similar with my e46. those posts start here in my thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2907457-post29.html


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

benny z said:


> nice.
> 
> are you still putting them in the dash?
> 
> we did something similar with my e46. those posts start here in my thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2907457-post29.html


Yes, I want to go to L4s. I think the l3s might be a little overpowered with the 8s in the doors.... Time will tell. 

I've been drooling over your build here and on bimmerforums.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

naw, the 3s will be good w/ the 8s. ...but please - put the 8s in the kicks. i put 8s in my e39 doors and while it worked, it was still rattly/buzzy... and after putting mid basses in the kicks of my e46 i will never go back to doors.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

benny z said:


> naw, the 3s will be good w/ the 8s. ...but please - put the 8s in the kicks. i put 8s in my e39 doors and while it worked, it was still rattly/buzzy... and after putting mid basses in the kicks of my e46 i will never go back to doors.


Ugh, that was my initial thought when I started choosing hardware but stuffing 8s in the kicks and moving the lcm is not appealing. 
I guess building custom doors is probably harder though.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the car back on wheels and my workspace semi organized.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

New midbass location in the works. Going to try to get as much on Axis as possible without losing foot space. 





Got this idea from Mark at CAF, little non slip/skid router board


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Not much progress, feels like mostly staring, measuring and thinking about where everything is going to fit. 
But here's a couple pics.

Baffle









Then I started laying amps in to see how it was going to work, took this pic



Was going to do the two big amps there, then the 150.2s under the parcel shelf.
But after more staring and measuring I think I found a way to fit all four amps and the distribution blocks on there. 
The computer and DSP will go in the cavity on the left/DS... Hopefully it works. 

Something like this



Might have to get another knf60 distribution block for grounds, purely for symmetry.

More tools... 




Now have a dedicated table router and separate plunge/fixed base router for free hand and circles. 
Already put them to use reworking the old sub rings. Going to use the rings as a trim/beauty ring, maybe...


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Small update.

Perks of being a welder.... 



50' of 1/0 and 50' of 4ga for $60

Made my first RCA, pretty easy actually



Spent some time wiring on a lazy Sunday



Waiting on 4ga wire ferrules to come in before finishing up the wiring for the 150.2s


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Got the subs temporarily mounted







Still more bracing to do on the baffle, might machine a piece of aluminum to replace that MDF center support. 
Once I'm happy with how it's braced I'll start building walls and the false floor


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)




----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

This could get interesting...


Met with musicar nw today, went over some front stage ideas, we'll see what happens.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

You're about to double the value of your car, lol.

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Like to thank Nick and Tom for their time, hopefully I'll see you guys soon.

Went over some ideas, got some prices. 
Need to get the system wired and operational before sending it to musicar for the first round of driver installs. 

The carpc didn't work where I had it, so I put the second battery there







Plan on mounting the PC and DSP under the amps in the spare tire area.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*

Your pictures won't load for me on your last post. Tried WiFi and 4g in Twp different Ares Stoll no access 

Edit: none of your images load for me :/

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



eviling said:


> Your pictures won't load for me on your last post. Tried WiFi and 4g in Twp different Ares Stoll no access
> 
> Edit: none of your images load for me :/
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


I think photo bucket is down, been having trouble with them for the last month


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

That's why I only use the forum servers to host anymore or it might be tapatalks servers not sure. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



eviling said:


> Your pictures won't load for me on your last post. Tried WiFi and 4g in Twp different Ares Stoll no access
> 
> Edit: none of your images load for me :/
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


Same issues here


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



abusiveDAD said:


> Same issues here


Should be back up now


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

the install is looking awesome man.

what made you change your mind with the V shaped baffle to the flat one?

also, I just looked back at the thread and realized I never mentioned the chalkboard LCD - it does not fit in the housing for the other LCD. I had to 3D print my own custom housing - but it looks awesome and works way better than the screen you've got now and the one I upgraded from. windows fits snugly to the resolution, metro apps work, multi point gestures work. its fantastic. 
https://www.chalk-elec.com/?p=1712


Also, I saw this picture
http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/JFreak-09/IMG_20161006_134237_zpsvdj0gxel.jpg

and I was concerned that the risers for the zapco dsp were made of MDF. I have not had good luck with MDF as a structural support with that kind of setup. I much prefer your new idea with the PC laying down under the amps in this picture

http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii362/JFreak-09/IMG_20161028_153654_zpsgber3rfd.jpg


im really liking where you're going with this. I may install my battery like you have with my new car (my GTI was totaled) how do you plan on sealing the corners of the baffle after everything is up and running?


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

req said:


> the install is looking awesome man.
> 
> what made you change your mind with the V shaped baffle to the flat one?
> 
> ...


I changed from the V shaped baffle for a couple of reasons. #1 being strength, didn't have my confidence in one single layer of MDF holding up to 60+ lbs of woofer. And #2 was space, I gained 6-10 inches of floor space by standing it upright. 

I may upgrade the screen to the chalk one, but I'm going to try running Windows 7 and centrafuse as a front end before committing to a new screen. 

The new setup with the PC under the amps is turning out much better than the previous location. My only concern is heat, I may need to install some fans to keep things cool. 

Not quite sure how I'm going to seal around the baffle. May do expanding foam, may do tape or butyl rope. Not sure what would be best.

I saw your thread about your car, gut wrenching what happened. Sad to see all the hard work go like that, but the new project will be fun to watch.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Jfreak said:


> I changed from the V shaped baffle for a couple of reasons. #1 being strength, didn't have my confidence in one single layer of MDF holding up to 60+ lbs of woofer. And #2 was space, I gained 6-10 inches of floor space by standing it upright.
> 
> I may upgrade the screen to the chalk one, but I'm going to try running Windows 7 and centrafuse as a front end before committing to a new screen.
> 
> ...


Centrafuse! Oh man that's bringing me back to my first carputer attempt. I had it too. Physicly in car running off 12vdc. Centrafuse 4.0 I think it was back in 09-11 somewhere in that area. Was much harder to find a good screen and parts back than. Id just go an iPad rout Mac makes better front end IMHO cooler for cars and that one toolbag the soundman has **** he made to put it in cars. ,good mechanic just an annoying dude lol 

I had 2tbs HDD raid array and a 10 channel sound card was gonna run it all custom...wish I finished that project  biggest regret of my life <_< 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## req (Aug 4, 2007)

Jfreak said:


> I changed from the V shaped baffle for a couple of reasons. #1 being strength, didn't have my confidence in one single layer of MDF holding up to 60+ lbs of woofer. And #2 was space, I gained 6-10 inches of floor space by standing it upright.


makes sense. 



Jfreak said:


> I may upgrade the screen to the chalk one, but I'm going to try running Windows 7 and centrafuse as a front end before committing to a new screen.


I highly recommend the new screen. windows 10 is unusable without the high resolution. cant use any windows 10 apps at all. and gestures absolutely need the mouse\keyboard. btw, that Logitech keyboard you've got works great. the power on\off switch on top is fantastic. too bad mine was flooded.



Jfreak said:


> The new setup with the PC under the amps is turning out much better than the previous location. My only concern is heat, I may need to install some fans to keep things cool.


I was really afraid the MDF would fail and the whole thing would fall apart and get damaged. I used MDF as a riser for an amp one time just like that. wood glue and predrilled screws. the MDF failed from the vibrations and basically tore itself apart. gotta have reinforced triangle buttress type things for MDF like that.



Jfreak said:


> Not quite sure how I'm going to seal around the baffle. May do expanding foam, may do tape or butyl rope. Not sure what would be best.


I would recommend masking all your wires off with some kind of tape, then getting a piece of PVC tubing that they barely fit through, cut it about the thickness of your baffle, and fill the surrounding area with some kind of filler. body filler, expanding foam or something. (lay down aluminum tape on the floor\wall so the foam does not stick permanently). then fill all the gaps with duct seal or silicone around the baffle. between the PVC and the wires, seal from both sides with duct seal. you can buy it at lowes\depot in the electrical isle. usually comes in a 1lb rectangle in a white plastic wrapper. 

Gardner Bender 1 lb. Plug Duct Seal Compound-DS-110 - The Home Depot




Jfreak said:


> I saw your thread about your car, gut wrenching what happened. Sad to see all the hard work go like that, but the new project will be fun to watch.


thanks man. im super bummed about it. I have all kinds of parts to swap, work to do. rebuild the stereo. its going to be so much work. I easily lost hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars because of the flooding


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

eviling said:


> Centrafuse! Oh man that's bringing me back to my first carputer attempt. I had it too. Physicly in car running off 12vdc. Centrafuse 4.0 I think it was back in 09-11 somewhere in that area. Was much harder to find a good screen and parts back than. Id just go an iPad rout Mac makes better front end IMHO cooler for cars and that one toolbag the soundman has **** he made to put it in cars. ,good mechanic just an annoying dude lol
> 
> I had 2tbs HDD raid array and a 10 channel sound card was gonna run it all custom...wish I finished that project  biggest regret of my life <_<
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


I've not ever messed with it, hopefully I like it. If not, it's win8 or 10. 

Never really cared for the tablet idea myself, it's probably easier but I'm not a tablet guy. Don't even own one for use around the house. Lol



req said:


> I highly recommend the new screen. windows 10 is unusable without the high resolution. cant use any windows 10 apps at all. and gestures absolutely need the mouse\keyboard. btw, that Logitech keyboard you've got works great. the power on\off switch on top is fantastic. too bad mine was flooded.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm expecting to change to the chalk screen, but hoping the one I have will suffice. 

I've been trying to not use a single piece of MDF as I move on with this build, everything I build/built will be replaced with plywood of some sort. My local HD sucks so I need to find a good lumber yard. 

Thanks for the tips on sealing the wall, the PVC and body filler is a good idea. Was searching through some threads on here to figure out what others have done.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*

Centrafuse is great its large icons. Great if you have resistive screen The wireless tech wasn't as easy when I did it but if you got internet centrafuse is awesome and if they've interfaced Spotify or some sort in that'd be epic. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

eviling said:


> good mechanic just an annoying dude lol


I think we all know someone like that. lol

Jay


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &quot;562&quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*

Small update, been waiting for wire and terminals but they finally came in today. So I got some time to play







eviling said:


> Centrafuse is great its large icons. Great if you have resistive screen The wireless tech wasn't as easy when I did it but if you got internet centrafuse is awesome and if they've interfaced Spotify or some sort in that'd be epic.
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


You can embed programs/apps now, worth playing with I thought.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



Jfreak said:


> Small update, been waiting for wire and terminals but they finally came in today. So I got some time to play
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hmm that's a nice rivet gun. I use one in my job daily so I sotted that **** right away. That's a tin knockers, you work in the field or just bought a nice tool


That wiring is well organized, Ialso suspect electrician. Looks good, that z8 will be nice with a built in computer, you going to romote in from a laptop to tune? Or you think that screen will be big enough. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



eviling said:


> Hmm that's a nice rivet gun. I use one in my job daily so I sotted that **** right away. That's a tin knockers, you work in the field or just bought a nice tool
> 
> 
> That wiring is well organized, Ialso suspect electrician. Looks good, that z8 will be nice with a built in computer, you going to romote in from a laptop to tune? Or you think that screen will be big enough.
> ...


I bought the rivnut setter on McMaster, figured they'd have a decent price on a quality product. 
Not an electrician, just OCD lol 

The Z8 will be hooked to the carpc for tuning, but will also have the option of connecting a laptop up front through the Z8R.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*

Hmm you got the z8R? That's what I'm running. Putting the remote in my fuse box panel. 










What'd you find it for I'm seeing 50$  I'll put it in my wishlist but honestly I've had my ace hardware for 12 years and my dad had it for 4 before. Springs long broke but still one pump action. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Are you using GPS for your car pc?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> Are you using GPS for your car pc?


Yes, I have a USB GPS dongle I'll be using.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

What software, sorry i wasn't clear enough.. I'm doing a car pc build as well, and had it in my TL.. just wondering what software you gonna run.
Thank you
Mario 

BTW! awesome build so far!


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> What software, sorry i wasn't clear enough.. I'm doing a car pc build as well, and had it in my TL.. just wondering what software you gonna run.
> Thank you
> Mario
> 
> BTW! awesome build so far!


I'm going to try the GPS software included with centrafuse. If that doesn't work or I end up not liking it im not sure what I'll use. Maybe just Google maps. 

Thanks, this build has been way too long. Lol


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



Jfreak said:


> I'm going to try the GPS software included with centrafuse. If that doesn't work or I end up not liking it im not sure what I'll use. Maybe just Google maps.
> 
> Thanks, this build has been way too long. Lol


Carputers are the worst because they ta
Me so much time to get right, get the inputs and outputs setup. Did you consider anything like this m audio one, I was going to run one with this sound card back when I did my carputer. I never got to the calibration stages of the sound card though :/ bit hell of allot cheaper than some options 










Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



eviling said:


> Carputers are the worst because they ta
> Me so much time to get right, get the inputs and outputs setup. Did you consider anything like this m audio one, I was going to run one with this sound card back when I did my carputer. I never got to the calibration stages of the sound card though :/ bit hell of allot cheaper than some options
> 
> 
> ...


I've never seen that card, seems like a pretty decent unit. 
I did a lot of reading and spec comparing before choosing the claro halo card I have. The other card I had in mind was the Asus xonar essence. 

We'll see how the quality is when it all gets running.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Its an old card I couldn't even find it that sites likely never getting those I couldn't find em anywhere. 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Progress has slowed with the weather and holidays. But I make some small progress with the odd sunny day. 

All buttoned up, minus ACC wires for the amps and RCA's. All the tie anchors are secured with #6 machine screws and threaded inserts



Amp wiring labeled and covered with clear heatshrink 



Went to re-route my speaker wires to the new locations and found the insulation on the wire I had installed previously was already gummy and rubbing off. So replaced it with some regular ol sxl hookup wire, twisted for easier routing



And finally, got the chalk electric screen. Did not like centrafuse at all! Crashed every time I opened it. Just going to run 8.1 metro style now. 
Ordered one with and one without the frame, not sure which I'll use.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Very, very impressed with Musicar NW fab work! Very humbling trying to diy, then seeing work of this level. 

Had them install the screen





And install the mids... I'm beyond thrilled with how they turned out. Looks factory, or better


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Dude! I happen to know for a fact, that speaker in those locations in a BMW can do magical things. Very nice.


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## danno14 (Sep 1, 2009)

Stunning! I would say better than factory!


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Starting a new build on my CC with car pc and 10.2" monitor, this will be fun !!!

Question how are you going to implement real time driving on google maps?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> Starting a new build on my CC with car pc and 10.2" monitor, this will be fun !!!
> 
> Question how are you going to implement real time driving on google maps?


Not quite sure yet. I have a GPS dongle I'm hoping I can get to interface with Google maps. Or find a third party app, or use my phone through Bluetooth.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

hm, interesting, let me know how that works out for you, I have tried few things and no one of them will work, if you run windows 10 and try to run google mps through the app store, it wont work, it will show you directions but not when your driving. I have been looking around for different software but got no luck with it....


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

quickaudi07 said:


> hm, interesting, let me know how that works out for you, I have tried few things and no one of them will work, if you run windows 10 and try to run google mps through the app store, it wont work, it will show you directions but not when your driving. I have been looking around for different software but got no luck with it....


i have been trying to solve this issue for a while and i cannot figure out a way to do it unless some computer programmer makes some sort of API to interface gmaps turn by turn via windows 10.

the only thing i could think of was trying to emulate an android OS and run the android version of gmaps but i dont know if the usb gps module will work this way. 

my car flooded before i could test this out.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Co pilot is an option if I can't stand Bluetooth. I also know a couple software engineers that I can get some help from if I decide to develop my own option.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Picked the dash up and couldn't wait to install it. For building it on a bench without a way to test fit anything, the fit is perfect! 

Now I'm excited to take it back to have them finish installing the other components.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Alright guys, I have a puzzle.
I just did a test run on the system to make sure my wiring was all correct before I start covering stuff up and bolting stuff down. 
Ran into an issue. 
My DSP Z8 is always on. REM in has .0012v when not switched, 12.5v when key on. Constant power is 12.5v, good ground. 
I've double and triple checked that I have it wired correctly and that my keyed power source is good.
About 5 seconds after I plug it in the power light comes on and I have 12.5v at the REM out terminal to my amps, meaning my amps are also always on. 
I've tried unplugging all sources to the unit as well to rule out any auto on feature. 

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

While taking a break from diagnosing the DSP, I tried copilot and like it enough to live with it for a little while. Opens quick, good route selection, turn by turn, simple UI.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*

That's odd, so it's off when the wires off so.it's not shorting off a hot elsewhere, its gatta be your rem leg your tapping is shorted up the.line or.on the wrong wire. Did you come from the fuse box acc?

I've seen people struggle switch it: p 

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

*Re: BMW &amp;quot;562&amp;quot; E39 CarPc + Zapco + HAT + Fi*



eviling said:


> That's odd, so it's off when the wires off so.it's not shorting off a hot elsewhere, its gatta be your rem leg your tapping is shorted up the.line or.on the wrong wire. Did you come from the fuse box acc?
> 
> I've seen people struggle switch it: p
> 
> Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk


I tapped into the factory amp remote lead. Double checked that it's only switched with key on. And it's hooked to my carpc acc power and that works perfectly. 
Removed the Z8, bench tested it using a 12v power supply, as soon as I hook constant and ground up it turn on, contacting the acc pin does nothing. Won't turn off even. 

I replaced it already with a mosconi 6to8 v8, no problems​ with that unit


----------



## crackinhedz (May 5, 2013)

Jfreak said:


> Did not like centrafuse at all! Crashed every time I opened it.


Centrafuse can be a little frustrating on setup, but once its up its really great! I cannot even imagine using anything else for media playback on the daily basis.

If you need any help trouble shooting let me know!


----------



## crackinhedz (May 5, 2013)

Jfreak said:


> While taking a break from diagnosing the DSP, I tried copilot and like it enough to live with it for a little while. Opens quick, good route selection, turn by turn, simple UI.


I like Copilot, but find many times its routes are not as 'smart' as google maps so I find myself often relying on my phone.


----------



## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

We'll see after I live with it for awhile. I may give centrafuse another try later on. 
We all know how it goes, projects like these are never finished. Haha


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Alright guys need some help/direction. 
I put music through the system for the first time, just mid, mid bass and subs, didn't want to destroy my tweets in case of a freak accident. 

So I have my xovers set in the 6to8, and I get sound out of it but it's all linked together. 
When I adjust gain on the mid bass amp it makes the mids louder and quieter as I adjust, same goes for the sub amp. 

Then when I plugged the DRC in, I got just mids playing, I could feel the midbass cones vibrate but no significant sound. 

Is it the RCAs I made, signal source? 

Or am I just a newb that need to do a lot more reading on how to setup a 3way active system? 

Any help is appreciated


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Fantastic work and gear !


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

Have you tried to play around with RCA and see if you getting signal on different amps or speakers. ??

have you done any testing or trouble shooting to see what is going on.. thats a lot of amps my friend


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

quickaudi07 said:


> Have you tried to play around with RCA and see if you getting signal on different amps or speakers. ??
> 
> have you done any testing or trouble shooting to see what is going on.. thats a lot of amps my friend


I haven't done any tests yet, my plan is to test my RCAs with a dmm, if they check out ok I was going to test the dsp for proper out put voltage, if that checks out ok it's on to the amps.


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## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Looking good!


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Tested RCAs and dsp, check out ok. Got to be a software setting for my sound card. Should be easy, just have to sit in the car and mess with settings... Darn


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Man oh man the guys at MusicarNW amaze me


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Nice!


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## AyOne (Sep 24, 2016)

That looks really great! Really makes me miss my e39. Favorite car I've ever had.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Now she just needs a lot of time with EQ. 
And I need to button up the trunk


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

That Mosconi display integration is awesome, but I'd totally rest my arm there. lol

Guys at Musicar do some sick work!

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> That Mosconi display integration is awesome, but I'd totally rest my arm there. lol
> 
> Guys at Musicar do some sick work!
> 
> Jay


For sure. I had it sitting in there when i dropped it off, told them to put it wherever they want, guess they liked the idea.
Nice thing is the armrest slides back and forth, so I don't have much issue with bumping it. 

Been spending my evenings reading how to tune trying to learn, definitely going to take some time.
No idea what I'm doing, also, probably cant trust an RTA app on my phone, but.... Here's a screenshot of what I got from some time with a pink noise track from the focal test CDs I found on here


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I grabbed the same RTA app (and a couple of others) for my Android tablet and a Dayton IMM6.
I know it's not the same as a real RTA (or even my calibrated ECM8000 on my computer) but it should be close, and I can see changes in real time.

If that's the one from Bofinit (Audio Tool...I looked at a few), I sent him a message asking if you could display a house curve. He said that no, but he's had a few people ask, and it's on the To-do list. 

I might just download Audiotools for my GF's iPad (it can display house curves) and use it.

Jay


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> I grabbed the same RTA app (and a couple of others) for my Android tablet and a Dayton IMM6.
> I know it's not the same as a real RTA (or even my calibrated ECM8000 on my computer) but it should be close, and I can see changes in real time.
> 
> If that's the one from Bofinit (Audio Tool...I looked at a few), I sent him a message asking if you could display a house curve. He said that no, but he's had a few people ask, and it's on the To-do list.
> ...


Might have to do the same.
Still lots of reading to go. The more I read the more I realize how little I know haha


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Alright guys, I don't know what an acceptable level of noise floor is, but key on but engine off you can hear it if it's quiet outside the car. Can't hear it over the heater on low but it's definitely noticable. 

Doesn't make a difference if the RCAs are plugged in or not, tried mute plugs, still audible. 
Turning gains all the way down help a little. They're only up 1/4 to 1-3 of the way
Checked, cleaned and tightened grounds. 

Any other suggestions? 
I'll have an rta here in a couple days and will try to get a reading on how loud it is. 
Not bad to me but it's definitely noticable.


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## benny z (Mar 17, 2008)

Should be dead silent, especially with RCAs disconnected. If noise increases with gain increase, sounds like a noisy amp. What amp is it?


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

benny z said:


> Should be dead silent, especially with RCAs disconnected. If noise increases with gain increase, sounds like a noisy amp. What amp is it?


Zapco Z150.2


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## ///MJay (Aug 22, 2006)

I have to ask, how does this sound?

I am working out the plans for my E39. I really want to make kicks work. I am impressed with how they look. I am willing to give up my dead pedal. 

Do you have any more pics of the kicks all torn apart? I wonder what all I am dealing with in there? Where did you vent to? 

Stuck are you still around? I would love to get more info on the door midrange you settled on. Also get your insight on the kicks since you went that route too. 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

///MJay said:


> I have to ask, how does this sound?
> 
> I am working out the plans for my E39. I really want to make kicks work. I am impressed with how they look. I am willing to give up my dead pedal.
> 
> ...



I still haven't had a proper tune done yet, but even without a proper tune it sounds pretty dam good in my book. 

I don't have any build pics of the kicks. In my opinion the passenger side is the worst side because the lcm is there. But I haven't taken these out to see how musicar did it. 
They're vented into the body of the car, so it has the whole rocker panel for airspace. 

I didn't put mids in the door, I decided on dash mounted mids like bennyz's old setup. 
All the components are hybrid audio legatia series though.


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## ///MJay (Aug 22, 2006)

Thanks!

Please come back and update here if you get the tune. Or any other updates. 

I would have thought the drivers side would be the challenge. On the M there is a dead pedal, hood release and trunk release. They worked around the hood and trunk really nice on yours. 

Is the carpet the same on M and non M cars? I have Carmel interior and want to put black carpet when I have it apart for deadening and the kicks. 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

///MJay said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Please come back and update here if you get the tune. Or any other updates.
> 
> ...


I believe so. I bought black carpet from an M and it fit perfect.


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## ///MJay (Aug 22, 2006)

Perfect! Thanks for the inspiration. 



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