# Replacing Weak Bose Subwoofer



## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

Hi all!
My first post here as a member after weeks of creeping.

I have a 2009 Chevy Tahoe with the stock bose audio system.
The mids and highs in the system are acceptable to my ears, but I find the bass very lacking. Its pretty weak and is more like a speaker that is tuned for low frequency. :mean:

The bose 6.5" sub is in a enclosure like this under the center console:



















My plan is to replace the sub with a 6.5" Exodus Anarchy Midwoofer (from diycable) and power it with a 300w Rockford Fosgate punch monoblock amp that will connect to the stock head unit with a line out converter. Will probably add some poly-fil to the "enclosure" for better sound.










I really don't want to give up interior cargo space for a large external box right now, and feel this setup will give me deeper, cleaner bass than stock. It wont hit like a 10" or 12", but at reasonable volume levels, should sound good.

I would truly appreciated everyone's feedback, comments & ideas on this, or other options.

Thanks


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

Anyone?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Those anarchy's can really move, if you plan on using the stock enclosure, I'd add a crap ton of mass to it.
Better option would be make your own enclosure, mdf, fiberglass, etc. I'm sure you can make it better, just try to implement the stock mounting locations. You could almost move up to a 8 or 10 if it's fairly shallow, and you can give it the right airspace. There's a good amount of room under the console.

I'd turn the console upside down and get a glass mold, then glass another mold of the floor, join with either mdf or glass walls. Recess the sub downfiring... Worth a look. Just take some planning and fab work. 

Nice thing is, doesn't have to be pretty... Will be hidden under the console.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> Those anarchy's can really move, if you plan on using the stock enclosure, I'd add a crap ton of mass to it.
> Better option would be make your own enclosure, mdf, fiberglass, etc. I'm sure you can make it better, just try to implement the stock mounting locations. You could almost move up to a 8 or 10 if it's fairly shallow, and you can give it the right airspace. There's a good amount of room under the console.
> 
> I'd turn the console upside down and get a glass mold, then glass another mold of the floor, join with either mdf or glass walls. Recess the sub downfiring... Worth a look. Just take some planning and fab work.
> ...


Thanks for the reply!

I agree that a custom enclosure would be ideal, but quite expensive ($500+), and if I did that I would want to to change all the mids & highs and add the proper amplification for it...and if I did that then it would be better if I gutted the interior to add sound deadening. It would get very expensive. 

The setup I suggested above will cost around $200 total, Im curious to see if you guys think it will be worth it.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

it will be louder, but as mentioned, you may get at on of resonance with it and buzzing from the higheroutput, and that wouldnt make it any more enjoyable to listen to IMO...

the idea is sound, putting in a higher output driver and pushing it with a bigger amp...why not just give it a shot if you are only spending 200? if it doesnt work return it to stock and sell the stuff off


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

simplicityinsound said:


> it will be louder, but as mentioned, you may get at on of resonance with it and buzzing from the higheroutput, and that wouldnt make it any more enjoyable to listen to IMO...
> 
> the idea is sound, putting in a higher output driver and pushing it with a bigger amp...why not just give it a shot if you are only spending 200? if it doesnt work return it to stock and sell the stuff off


I went ahead and ordered the Exodus Anarchy & Fosgate punch 300w mono amp. 

I have a question about poly-fil. I have read that it will give better sound in smaller boxes and Im guessing it will help reduce buzzing at higher volume levels. Should I just stuff it in, or should it be glued down with spray adhesive or something?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2009tahoe said:


> I went ahead and ordered the Exodus Anarchy & Fosgate punch 300w mono amp.
> 
> I have a question about poly-fil. I have read that it will give better sound in smaller boxes and Im guessing it will help reduce buzzing at higher volume levels. Should I just stuff it in, or should it be glued down with spray adhesive or something?


It's not going to do anything for an enclosure vibrating. What it will do is "trick" the sub into thinking it's in a slightly larger enclosure.

As the sub moves air inside the enclosure, it causes the fibers to vibrate and dissipate it as heat. Effectively slowing down the air movement... Like it was in a larger box.
You want it packed, but not tight. It needs to be able to move and expand. Rule of thumb is 1lb per 1f3 of air space.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> It's not going to do anything for an enclosure vibrating. What it will do is "trick" the sub into thinking it's in a slightly larger enclosure.
> 
> As the sub moves air inside the enclosure, it causes the fibers to vibrate and dissipate it as heat. Effectively slowing down the air movement... Like it was in a larger box.
> You want it packed, but not tight. It needs to be able to move and expand. Rule of thumb is 1lb per 1f3 of air space.


so no glue then...wont the poly-fill get inside the woofer basket etc. if it is not held down?

The stock sub does not buzz right now even at higher volume, so im hoping the replacement wont either.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2009tahoe said:


> so no glue then...wont the poly-fill get inside the woofer basket etc. if it is not held down?
> 
> The stock sub does not buzz right now even at higher volume, so im hoping the replacement wont either.


I've done a few down firing enclosures, with nothing securing the fill. But, I could've just been lucky. If you put it in as large clumps, I wouldn't worry. I imagine if it was tore down to small wads it might be an issue. 
You could prob do a spray glue on just the top of the enclosure, but it could still fall.
And, sorry wasn't trying to imply you go have a enclosure made. Your right, could be expensive. But it would be a good diy project to try. Maybe $100-125 in materials, and if it's ugly, who cares lol, it'll be covered up. 
But i agree, try the stock enclosure first and see how it does. Never know, and your not out anything.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

if you can separate the two halfs, you can then get like the spray on sound proofing and just put in as much as possible in there and then while its still wet, mate the two sides back togehter...it will help a lil bit 

that is if you get buzzing and reosnance with your new sub.

b


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> I've done a few down firing enclosures, with nothing securing the fill. But, I could've just been lucky. If you put it in as large clumps, I wouldn't worry. I imagine if it was tore down to small wads it might be an issue.
> You could prob do a spray glue on just the top of the enclosure, but it could still fall.
> And, sorry wasn't trying to imply you go have a enclosure made. Your right, could be expensive. But it would be a good diy project to try. Maybe $100-125 in materials, and if it's ugly, who cares lol, it'll be covered up.
> But i agree, try the stock enclosure first and see how it does. Never know, and your not out anything.


Totally my mistake, this forum literally has DIY in its name, and here I am talking about having someone make it for me. lol :laugh:

MTX makes an under console Thunderbox enclosure for the tahoe that costs $300. It comes loaded with one of their crap 10" subs. I considered that, but $300 for enclosure + $100 for decent 10" sub + $200 for amp = $600. Which is too much if you are leaving everything else stock. I cant stomach spending that for adding one 10" lol.

As far as I know, nobody has tried to replace the bose sub and add an amp while keeping the stock enclosure...I love to try something new...you're absolutely right, who knows I may be surprised!


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2009tahoe said:


> Totally my mistake, this forum literally has DIY in its name, and here I am talking about having someone make it for me. lol :laugh:
> 
> MTX makes an under console Thunderbox enclosure for the tahoe that costs $300. It comes loaded with one of their crap 10" subs. I considered that, but $300 for enclosure + $100 for decent 10" sub + $200 for amp = $600. Which is too much if you are leaving everything else stock. I cant stomach spending that for adding one 10" lol.
> 
> As far as I know, nobody has tried to replace the bose sub and add an amp while keeping the stock enclosure...I love to try something new...you're absolutely right, who knows I may be surprised!


No worries man.
Just didn't want yet thinking I was pushing for you to spend big money on it. 

Depending on hey the enclosure works, could be a pretty cheap solution. Just try and get that stock box as solid, and dead as you can. That anarchy is going to put a lot more force on it than the stock unit.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

So guys I'm at a crossroads...

Diycable.com e-mailed me to say that they will not be making the 4 ohm 6.5" Anarchy woofers due to lack of demand. 

So i've decided to get a 12" Subwoofer and put it in an enclosure behind the second row seats. Will the bass suffer at normal volumes because the woofer will be so far back? Even though the current bose sub is weak, it is right next to me under the center console. 
Anybody have suggestions for a good 12" sub? I'm looking to run a single 12" in a sealed box. Digital Designs,Alpine, Jl Audio etc. what is a good choice?
Thanks


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

No, by all rights it should walk all over the stock sub. Even behind the second row, your looking at a LOT more cone area, and more available power to it.

I'd look at something like an alpine typeR. Decent price, solid output, etc.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> No, by all rights it should walk all over the stock sub. Even behind the second row, your looking at a LOT more cone area, and more available power to it.
> 
> I'd look at something like an alpine typeR. Decent price, solid output, etc.


I am seriously considering the type R, any other good performers?


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2009tahoe said:


> I am seriously considering the type R, any other good performers?


You might want to figure out what enclosure limitations you'll have. Mounting depth, available air space, etc. That will help narrow it down as what to look for.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> You might want to figure out what enclosure limitations you'll have. Mounting depth, available air space, etc. That will help narrow it down as what to look for.


The sealed box I'm looking at is:

Dimensions: 14"D x 14"W x 14"H
Total box volume: 1.0 cubic feet
Subwoofer mounting depth: 12-1/2"


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Price is a little higher, but there is this....
DDAudio: SW6.5 | DD Audio 

Or these....(even some cheapies in there)
6.5" Subwoofers | 6.5 Inch Car Subwoofers | 6-1/2" Subs


But if you've givin up on the 6.5 route, JL W3's and W6's have always been dependable, for me. The Alpine's are solid, as well. Lot's of workable options.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

2009tahoe said:


> The sealed box I'm looking at is:
> 
> Dimensions: 14"D x 14"W x 14"H
> Total box volume: 1.0 cubic feet
> Subwoofer mounting depth: 12-1/2"


You got lots of options then. Lol
What kinda budget you looking at again?


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

jcollin76 said:


> You got lots of options then. Lol
> What kinda budget you looking at again?


Under $200 for one 12"


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

I wouldn't give up on the idea of a front mounted 6.5 inch subwoofer so fast. A 6.5 inch subwoofer will certainly have less output than a trunk mounted subwoofer. However, the integration will be much better when the subwoofer is mounted in the front. I have gone through two different trunk mounted subwoofers and many many different DSP tweaks, and I still would say they are not 100% transparent. There are still a couple of albums in my collection where localizing subwoofer is not hard (I guess this has to do with the special type of kick drums they use). Output-size a 6.5 inch subwoofer certainly is on the weak side, specially for an SUV. If you listen mostly to say rock and pop music, a small front mounted subwoofer can be sufficient, but it will lack output on some rap or hip hop songs. 

I have heard good reviews of Hybrid Audio's 6.5 inch Imagine subwoofer. Another possibility is to try to mount an 8 inch subwoofer in the front. Lately, 8-inch Alpine Type-R has been this forum's boner 8-inch subwoofer. This may however require some custom work to make an enclosure for it.

If you go with a 12 inch subwoofer, I assume this will help to cure problems with the output. One of the favorite subwoofers of this forum is Image Dynamic IDQ v3. It has very good sensitivity, output, and sound quality, and it only needs 1cu ft box for the 12 inch version. The price is around $250 but if you make an offer to sonicelectronix under $200, they're known to have accepted it. This is the first sub I'd try. If you want to stay absolutely under $200, consider JBL Power series (recently discontinued) subs. P1224 or P1222. They're kind of oversized 12 inch subs, wouldn't fit in my 13 inch tall trunk area, but that shouldn't be a problem in an SUV. Another interesting option is to buy a 15 inch Dayton Reference HO subwoofer. Most 15 inch subwoofers really need HUGE sealed boxes, but the HO subs are a few of those that work in a smaller box. The HO15 needs about 1.5cu ft sealed box, which is close to the size of a lot of prefeb boxes for 15 inch subwoofers. Another interesting budget subwoofer is Infinity Kappa 120.9w. Rated for 350watts, but will easily handle up to around 500watts. Very small sealed box requirements, 1-1.3 cu ft is just fine. There is a switch to select between 2 and 4 ohms. The latest revision of 12 inch Alpine Type-R should also be a decent subwoofer. However, the modeling software recommends a bit bigger sealed box. I'd go with a 1.4cu ft sealed box sold by sonicelectronix, stuffed with a couple of pounds of polyfill.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

ZAKOH said:


> I wouldn't give up on the idea of a front mounted 6.5 inch subwoofer so fast. A 6.5 inch subwoofer will certainly have less output than a trunk mounted subwoofer. However, the integration will be much better when the subwoofer is mounted in the front. I have gone through two different trunk mounted subwoofers and many many different DSP tweaks, and I still would say they are not 100% transparent. There are still a couple of albums in my collection where localizing subwoofer is not hard (I guess this has to do with the special type of kick drums they use). Output-size a 6.5 inch subwoofer certainly is on the weak side, specially for an SUV. If you listen mostly to say rock and pop music, a small front mounted subwoofer can be sufficient, but it will lack output on some rap or hip hop songs.
> 
> I have heard good reviews of Hybrid Audio's 6.5 inch Imagine subwoofer. Another possibility is to try to mount an 8 inch subwoofer in the front. Lately, 8-inch Alpine Type-R has been this forum's boner 8-inch subwoofer. This may however require some custom work to make an enclosure for it.
> 
> If you go with a 12 inch subwoofer, I assume this will help to cure problems with the output. One of the favorite subwoofers of this forum is Image Dynamic IDQ v3. It has very good sensitivity, output, and sound quality, and it only needs 1cu ft box for the 12 inch version. The price is around $250 but if you make an offer to sonicelectronix under $200, they're known to have accepted it. This is the first sub I'd try. If you want to stay absolutely under $200, consider JBL Power series (recently discontinued) subs. P1224 or P1222. They're kind of oversized 12 inch subs, wouldn't fit in my 13 inch tall trunk area, but that shouldn't be a problem in an SUV. Another interesting option is to buy a 15 inch Dayton Reference HO subwoofer. Most 15 inch subwoofers really need HUGE sealed boxes, but the HO subs are a few of those that work in a smaller box. The HO15 needs about 1.5cu ft sealed box, which is close to the size of a lot of prefeb boxes for 15 inch subwoofers. Another interesting budget subwoofer is Infinity Kappa 120.9w. Rated for 350watts, but will easily handle up to around 500watts. Very small sealed box requirements, 1-1.3 cu ft is just fine. There is a switch to select between 2 and 4 ohms. The latest revision of 12 inch Alpine Type-R should also be a decent subwoofer. However, the modeling software recommends a bit bigger sealed box. I'd go with a 1.4cu ft sealed box sold by sonicelectronix, stuffed with a couple of pounds of polyfill.


Excellent informative reply...I'm googleing your suggestions to learn more on each sub. I think I may be done with the replacing stock enclosure idea, the hybrid audio 6.5" are $160! 

What about digital designs? I've heard good things about them, but cant find a site that sells them.


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

The DD's msrp around $200, so that's probably out. Not sure where to pick one up online, but the only shop that carries DD, in Ohio is in Elyria (near Cleveland).

Bunch more options here, too.
6-1/2 INCH WOOFERS from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

Well I'm a little overwhelmed with all the choices, but at least for once, I'm not rushing into buying something without doing the research first. 

I listen to Hip hop, pop, & jazz. Sound quality is important to me and I never listen to music at super high volume levels, certainly never high enough to rattle the interior trim or flex body panels. (I hate that)

Im debating whether I need a 10" or 12". 

Will a 10" suit my needs? I've read people saying that 10's are too punchy, but other say that that if in the right size enclosure this is not true.

Any recommendations on 10"? I looked at the Image Dynamics IDQ 10, but if possible would like something under the $200 level.

How is the Image Dynamics ID series? They are considerably cheaper than the IDQ.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Size of the sub does not determine if the sub is punchy or not, enclosure does.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

There are companies that produce nice subwoofer enclosures that fit well in vehicles natural cavities. This results in very utilitarian installs. Usually, they take 10 inch subwoofers. I would investigate this possibility first, and if an appropriate enclosure exists, find a subwoofer that matches it. Otherwise, unless you're seriously constrained by space, I think a carefully selected 12 inch subwoofer in a pre-fabbed sealed box or a 10 inch subwoofer in a custom designed vented box will give you more output than a 10 inch sub of the same family in a sealed box, while taking up relatively little space. IMHO, it's better to go for the bigger subwoofer so that you don't suffer from SPL envy later.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

ZAKOH said:


> There are companies that produce nice subwoofer enclosures that fit well in vehicles natural cavities. This results in very utilitarian installs. Usually, they take 10 inch subwoofers. I would investigate this possibility first, and if an appropriate enclosure exists, find a subwoofer that matches it. Otherwise, unless you're seriously constrained by space, I think a carefully selected 12 inch subwoofer in a pre-fabbed sealed box or a 10 inch subwoofer in a custom designed vented box will give you more output than a 10 inch sub of the same family in a sealed box, while taking up relatively little space. IMHO, it's better to go for the bigger subwoofer so that you don't suffer from SPL envy later.


This is true. Spend $50 extra now on a 12" setup, rather than have to get a new enclosure & sub later. 

Im looking at a Image Dynamics ID12, It comes in Dual 2ohm & Dual 4ohm configurations. 250W Max RMS on both.
So... Should I get the 2 ohm version and use the fosgate 300w mono amp OR get the 4ohm which will require a larger amp right?
Does it even make a difference?


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

Anyone?


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

Wait a sec...

This is a stock system that you are adding a sub to correct?

Don't waste your money. Unless you plan on adding a new head unit or some sort of re equalization product.

I say this because I did the same thing for my wifes Suburban. I was warned that adding a sub would be futile as the system is processed such that as you turn it up the bass is attenuated. This of course reduces speakers blown but also complicates simple upgrades. Just wanted you to be warned.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

cubdenno said:


> Wait a sec...
> 
> This is a stock system that you are adding a sub to correct?
> 
> ...


Yes the stock Bose system, was planning of running an aftermarket amp & sub using a Line out converter like the PAC audio SNI-35...

Will there be a problem?


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

The bass frequencies are EQ'd down as you turn the volume up. What I ended up with was lotsa bass when the volume was low. To much in fact. Then as you turned it up there was a sweet spot but was still to low to really rock out when you wanted everything loud. Maybe something has changed from 2003, but I doubt it. 

I ended up buying a new head unit. The difference was unbelievable. I left the stock Bose amp running the stock speakers. I ran the sub out to the subwoofer amp. Only issue added expense was the high dollar adapter to integrate the Onstar functionality. Well that and a headunit.:blush:


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Yeah, there is a TON of level dependent EQ... Also, is that really a sealed enclosure or a transmission line, AKA a speaker and a very long vent.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

cubdenno said:


> The bass frequencies are EQ'd down as you turn the volume up. What I ended up with was lotsa bass when the volume was low. To much in fact. Then as you turned it up there was a sweet spot but was still to low to really rock out when you wanted everything loud. Maybe something has changed from 2003, but I doubt it.
> 
> I ended up buying a new head unit. The difference was unbelievable. I left the stock Bose amp running the stock speakers. I ran the sub out to the subwoofer amp. Only issue added expense was the high dollar adapter to integrate the Onstar functionality. Well that and a headunit.:blush:


No this wont be a problem.
2007+ Tahoe Add-an-Amp - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

chad said:


> Yeah, there is a TON of level dependent EQ... Also, is that really a sealed enclosure or a transmission line, AKA a speaker and a very long vent.


Haha, just the worlds ugliest downfiring enclosure...


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

The NBS chevys, 2007 and up don't attenuate the bass as the volume is cranked, thank god GM finally did something right after the 99-2006 trucks, hoes, and burbons


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

....


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

My question is...Should I run the 2ohm version of the Image Dynamics ID12 with a 300w Fosgate amp, OR get the 4ohm version of the sub and get a bigger amp....Both versions of the sub are 250w max rms. Is there any real advantage to either way?


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

2009tahoe said:


> My question is...Should I run the 2ohm version of the Image Dynamics ID12 with a 300w Fosgate amp, OR get the 4ohm version of the sub and get a bigger amp....Both versions of the sub are 250w max rms. Is there any real advantage to either way?


Come on someone chime in!


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

Is the amp your getting or got 150wattsx4ohm 300 x2 ohm if so I would get the 2 ohm version. If you haven't purchased the amp yet you may want to look at some other alternatives like the PPI 600-2 600 watts bridged into 4 ohms and a little bigger than your hand not to mention speaker level inputs so no loc required.


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

passtim said:


> Is the amp your getting or got 150wattsx4ohm 300 x2 ohm if so I would get the 2 ohm version. If you haven't purchased the amp yet you may want to look at some other alternatives like the PPI 600-2 600 watts bridged into 4 ohms and a little bigger than your hand not to mention speaker level inputs so no loc required.


Well I already payed for the fosgate 300p, but the ebay seller says I can choose any other amp and just pay the difference. Obviously it has to be something that is currently made, also it would help if it is fairly common. Alpine MRX 500w mono amp looks promising. 300wx4ohms...Its quite ugly though.


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

What ever amp you get and sub combo try to look at getting the most power ie like I stated previously getting the 2 ohm version to maximize your amps potential.


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

If your amplifier is 2ohm stable, then to exploit the increased wattage at 2ohms, buy a dual 4ohm sub and wire it in parallel for the final 2ohm load as seen by the amplifier. If on the other hand, your amplifier is only 4ohm stable (usually, those are bridged channels on 2 or 4-channel amplifiers), then get a dual 2ohm subwoofer and wire it in series for the final impedance of 4ohms as seen by the amplifier. If you have a 1ohm stable amplifier, then you could get a dual 2ohm sub and wire it in parallel for 1ohm load. If what I am saying doesn't make much sense, look up subwoofer wiring tutorials.


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

If your getting the punch 300-1 just go with the D-4 which will give you a final 2ohm load wired in parallel +to+ -to- its not 1 ohm stable


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

I went ahead and bought the Image Dynamics ID12 V.3.

The max RMS for the sub is 250 w.

Should I stick with the rockford fosgate punch 300w mono amp Or move up to the punch 500w mono amp?


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

If their the same price, go with the Alpine, u can never have to much headroom, just never to much distortion, LOL


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## 2009tahoe (Feb 26, 2012)

passtim said:


> If their the same price, go with the Alpine, u can never have to much headroom, just never to much distortion, LOL


Are you talking about the Alpine MRX M50 500w mono amp?


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## passtim (Sep 30, 2009)

No, what i mean is the Alpine is rated at 500 watts into a 2ohm load, the Rockford is 300 watts into a 2 ohm load. The ID woofer is, I believe 250 watts continuous, 500 peak, so the Alpine would give you more headroom on peaks than the Rockford, meaning less distortion. All this instead of trying to make the Rockford perform past its potential.


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## prion (Dec 11, 2011)

What's wrong with an 8-ohm anarchy? You lose at most 3 dB of volume with your existing amp vs a 4-ohm. If you like to rock out at 120db it wont do it, but if 110db is more your style, then the 8 ohm will get there at 150 watts.


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