# Fancy sub box build - need some ideas, plz



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

So, I have this sub and it's REALLY nice looking! Lol

I love a challenging project, so I want to build a very unusual box with uncommon materials and techniques... Think acrylic, aluminum, fiber glass, carbon fiber, pvc, etc.. 

*I have no idea what I want to do and I'd love some wild ideas!* 

Also, I have no use for this sub when it's done so I'll either sell it or put it on display... That being said, there are NO restrictions or requirements in the design and build!!

It's one of the most beautiful subs on the market, imho. (@ToNasty, thanks for letting me shamelessly use your pictures)


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Food for thought... Maybe I should pop my fiber-glassing cherry?!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I like the acrylic box with the JL, and hate literally everything about the blue fiberglass one, haha. What about something done with an exotic wood veneer? Maybe a combo of "modern" materials and "classic" wood, done tastefully of course.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I like this one. Go for the acrylic see through with that subwoofer. It’s like it’s made for it.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I like the acrylic box with the JL, and hate literally everything about the blue fiberglass one, haha. What about something done with an exotic wood veneer? Maybe a combo of "modern" materials and "classic" wood, done tastefully of course.


That is an awesome idea! Hadn't thought of that... Maybe I can find a zebra wood type veneer and put some curves in the box. 
Wood, acrylic with some polished aluminum trim?! 



JCsAudio said:


> I like this one. Go for the acrylic see through with that subwoofer. It’s like it’s made for it.


Absolutely, this sub has to be seen, acrylic is a must for at least part of the box.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

I know, how about an acrylic box with a zebra wood round and flared Port with a high gloss finish. Yeah, I’d like to see you pull that one off Dave. 

I agree with joe, that blue thing is ugly.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> I know, how about an acrylic box with a zebra wood round and flared Port with a high gloss finish. Yeah, I’d like to see you pull that one off Dave.
> 
> I agree with joe, that blue thing is ugly.


I am not against that challenge...   ... the "zebra wood round and flared port with a high gloss finish" part makes me shiver in my boots a little! Lol

I agree that the fiberglass box is hideous, it was more just an exampled of fiberglass-ing (which I have never done before).


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## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

David,

I think Gijoe is on the money. The acrylic allows one to see the woofer and the other build materials. I think you should include some great looking wood, aluminum/stainless, and Carbon Fiber. Do you want this to play and sound good or simply show off the woofer?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OldNewbie said:


> David,
> 
> I think Gijoe is on the money. The acrylic allows one to see the woofer and the other build materials. I think you should include some great looking wood, aluminum/stainless, and Carbon Fiber. Do you want this to play and sound good or simply show off the woofer?


It's mostly for fun, but I will want the sub to play and sound "good", though looks are a priority. The sub is so good looking... I am definitely thinking along the lines of the wood-metal-cf and some acrylic to be able to see the sub. 

Of course lots of lighting effects...  I usually go for blue LEDs, but on this one I think I'll let the materials and finishes do the talking and just give it a white light with really high K like 5,000+.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I like the acrylic, aluminum, wood veneer theme, a veneered port inside of an acrylic box could be really cool. I'm not really a fan of CF personally, it's a great material, but in my opinion there is nothing "classy" about it, maybe I've seen too many poorly modified cars, but bare CF looks tacky to me.


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## Souths1der (Aug 27, 2014)

That basket is so cool looking. I would do something with it inverted, and use some futuristic metal looking contraption that its blasting into.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I like the *acrylic, aluminum, wood veneer* theme, a veneered port inside of an acrylic box could be really cool. I'm not really a fan of CF personally, it's a great material, but in my opinion there is nothing "classy" about it, maybe I've seen too many poorly modified cars, but bare CF looks tacky to me.


That is the most likely mix of materials... I am thinking the baffle and another window need to be acrylic, because I don't where to go to bend acrylic that is 1/2-3/4" thick! All of the curves would be in the wood veneer part. The aluminum would serve as trim pieces and design elements. 




Souths1der said:


> That basket is so cool looking. I would do something with it inverted, and use some futuristic metal looking contraption that its blasting into.


It's a beautiful sub, all the way around! I thought about inverting it... Hmmm, I'm trying to picture the metal contraption... It sounds cool


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Souths1der said:


> That basket is so cool looking. I would do something with it inverted, and use some futuristic metal looking contraption that its blasting into.


If you go this route, you can put the port on the rear wall of the box, like it's coming out of the driver. Paint it red/orange/yellow like flames. The driver kind of resembles a jet turbine. If you're into mythology, Mercury has wings on his feet for fast communication. He's "swift". Also plays into the airplane deal. The grille could be fashioned like airplane blades.

Edit: grille "blades" could be the aluminum design element.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

nyquistrate said:


> If you go this route, you can put the port on the rear wall of the box, like it's coming out of the driver. Paint it red/orange/yellow like flames. The driver kind of resembles a jet turbine. If you're into mythology, Mercury has wings on his feet for fast communication. He's "swift". Also plays into the airplane deal. The grille could be fashioned like airplane blades.
> 
> Edit: grille "blades" could be the aluminum design element.


Oh boy, I don't think I have the skills for all that! :blush:

Sounds awesome though...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I think I just found two sides of the box: the baffle, the "impossible-to-make" curve and the top!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-En...hrough-Laptop-Desk-Bed-Many-Uses/372674037771


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

What if I did an aluminum inlay in the wood?


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> What if I did an aluminum inlay in the wood?


That could be really cool, depending on how you integrate the inlay with the wood grain.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> That could be really cool, depending on how you integrate the inlay with the wood grain.


I added pics as examples... I think I am going to do that. I love it


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> I added pics as examples... I think I am going to do that. I love it


I dig the darker wood with the thin inlay.

Are you planning any LEDs? 

What about a "waterfall" effect with colored epoxy?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I'm in to see where this goes. And gijoe's post #3 could have come out of my mouth, word for word. 

If you are interested in acrylic, check out Bobby Gately. He does some really amazing enclosures using acrylic. I got to see/hold one in person at the SPL comp in Fresno and it was pretty incredible.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

What if the port stuck out of the top of the box like a periscope?? Lmao










No, seriously, I am thinking the port can sorta rise out of the box (see crude drawing) and it could be polished aluminum.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I dig the darker wood with the thin inlay.
> 
> Are you planning any LEDs?
> 
> What about a "waterfall" effect with colored epoxy?


Definitely doing some lighting... I often use color, but on this one I am thinking of bright white LEDs (5,000k+) to shimmer on the subs basket, acrylic and aluminum details... But those thoughts could change anytime! 



rton20s said:


> I'm in to see where this goes. And gijoe's post #3 could have come out of my mouth, word for word.
> 
> If you are interested in acrylic, check out Bobby Gately. He does some really amazing enclosures using acrylic. I got to see/hold one in person at the SPL comp in Fresno and it was pretty incredible.


I just checked his work out! Very nice! I might get in touch with him and ask for some advise...


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> What if the port stuck out of the top of the box like a periscope?? Lmao
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think this could be pretty cool, I like it.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I think this could be pretty cool, I like it.


Yep, me too


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have never built a ported box before, does anyone mind helping out with size and port tuning??

Sub specs: http://mercurycaraudio.jp/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/MCR-8010Spec.png


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Where did you find these. These look awesome! You’re into metal fab I think. I’m seeing polished aluminum, wood accents, and acrylic with led lighting in your future. It would go well with the finishes on that subwoofer frame.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> Where did you find these. These look awesome! You’re into metal fab I think. I’m seeing polished aluminum, wood accents, and acrylic with led lighting in your future. It would go well with the finishes on that subwoofer frame.


Ebay! https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Case-Pac...-Speaker-Ports-with-Gorilla-Glue/292323930678

I love metal fab... I've built a lot more out of metal than I have wood. 

They come in a three pack... If I end up being able to use one in this build, I'll send you one.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

DavidRam said:


> What if the port stuck out of the top of the box like a periscope?? Lmao
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like the sub(marine) idea! But I think the install might end up looking like a scene from Spongebob
Seriously, those ports make me wanna build a ported box, or an engine with velocity stacks.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Ebay! https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Case-Pac...-Speaker-Ports-with-Gorilla-Glue/292323930678
> 
> I love metal fab... I've built a lot more out of metal than I have wood.
> 
> They come in a three pack... If I end up being able to use one in this build, I'll send you one.


I’ll pay the shipping, that’s awesome!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ckirocz28 said:


> I like the sub(marine) idea! But I think the install might end up looking like a scene from Spongebob
> Seriously, those ports make me wanna build a ported box, or an engine with velocity stacks.


Lol @ Spongebob! I agree...


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

i'm subscribing to see David's magic!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> I’ll pay the shipping, that’s awesome!


I owe you one anyways... You've helped me a ton


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> I’ll pay the shipping, that’s awesome!


If you ever get board, could you take a look at the sub and it's specs and see how much volume and what size port I should use (hopefully those fancy ebayers work)? I'm in no hurry to start as I have a couple other projects I need to finish up... 

Port Dims: 
3" x 12" Subwoofer Ports. Ports Measure Exactly 4 9/16" (Front Total Diameter Across) x Inner Diameter 3" x 12" Length

Sub specs:
http://mercurycaraudio.jp/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/MCR-8010Spec.png


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

Google "wood epoxy table"

https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...QEwC3oECAYQGg#imgrc=_&vet=1&spf=1561160713853






You can mix automotive metallic paint or translucent candy, into the epoxy for some killer designs, from logos, to "river" effects.
An inlay, or a full panel for accent, in an acrylic box would look killer!


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## Souths1der (Aug 27, 2014)

What about two ports coming out of the top like dual exhaust? I'd draw a little sketch like some of you overachievers...but it's been a long day and I'm too lazy.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I've worked with wood/epoxy and wood/metal inlay. It's just a classy look to me.


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## Souths1der (Aug 27, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I've worked with wood/epoxy and wood/metal inlay. It's just a classy look to me.


Took me a while to figure out those were headphones. I was all "What the f..."


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> If you ever get board, could you take a look at the sub and it's specs and see how much volume and what size port I should use (hopefully those fancy ebayers work)? I'm in no hurry to start as I have a couple other projects I need to finish up...
> 
> Port Dims:
> 3" x 12" Subwoofer Ports. Ports Measure Exactly 4 9/16" (Front Total Diameter Across) x Inner Diameter 3" x 12" Length
> ...


I modeled three boxes here. One sealed @ 1.097 cu ft, one ported at 1.236 (fb = 31 Hz) cu ft, and one ported at 1.813 cu ft (fb = 26.94 Hz). I would suggest the manufacturer recommended 1.236 box as it will be small and still have great extension in a car. The vent volume, group delay, and power handling are all better in the smaller ported box vs the larger one. I attached PDF's of all models with all graphs for your use so all the information is there. let me know if you want me to change anything. That looks like it will be a nice sounding subwoofer. The QTS by the manufacturer seems to be off as the program says it should be .538 and the Mercury specifications say .64 Yellow is the 1.8 box, orange the 1.23 box, and red the sealed box. 









View attachment BassBox Pro Murcury 8010 sealed.pdf


View attachment BassBox Pro Murcury 8010 1.23 ported.pdf


View attachment BassBox Pro Murcury 8010 1.8 ported.pdf


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SHAGGS said:


> Google "wood epoxy table"
> 
> You can mix automotive metallic paint or translucent candy, into the epoxy for some killer designs, from logos, to "river" effects.
> An inlay, or a full panel for accent, in an acrylic box would look killer!


I've watched a ton of those videos, it's beautiful stuff! Actually, you just gave me an idea - I could leave a gap between the acrylic and wood and fill it with a colored epoxy. It would look cool and be the air tight joint that holds them together. Or do more if I am feeling ambitious... 



Souths1der said:


> What about two ports coming out of the top like dual exhaust? I'd draw a little sketch like some of you overachievers...but it's been a long day and I'm too lazy.


That'd look awesome! I'm a car guy through and through, so anything "car-like" is definitely cool with me!



gijoe said:


> I've worked with wood/epoxy and wood/metal inlay. It's just a classy look to me.


Those look great... Inlays are definitely a must, I love how it looks and I'd enjoy the challenge of doing that for the first time!

I'm getting kinda excited for his project!! 

Did you look at that acrylic end table? If I cut it in half it would give me the perfect curved front for the sub (baffle and window), AND I'd have two pieces encase I ****ed one up! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> I modeled three boxes here. One sealed @ 1.097 cu ft, one ported at 1.236 (fb = 31 Hz) cu ft, and one ported at 1.813 cu ft (fb = 26.94 Hz). I would suggest the manufacturer recommended 1.236 box as it will be small and still have great extension in a car. The vent volume, group delay, and power handling are all better in the smaller ported box vs the larger one. I attached PDF's of all models with all graphs for your use so all the information is there. let me know if you want me to change anything. That looks like it will be a nice sounding subwoofer. The QTS by the manufacturer seems to be off as the program says it should be .538 and the Mercury specifications say .64 Yellow is the 1.8 box, orange the 1.23 box, and red the sealed box.
> 
> View attachment 244311
> 
> ...


Damn, you went all out! THANK YOU!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> I modeled three boxes here. One sealed @ 1.097 cu ft, one ported at 1.236 (fb = 31 Hz) cu ft, and one ported at 1.813 cu ft (fb = 26.94 Hz). I would suggest the manufacturer recommended 1.236 box as it will be small and still have great extension in a car. The vent volume, group delay, and power handling are all better in the smaller ported box vs the larger one. I attached PDF's of all models with all graphs for your use so all the information is there. let me know if you want me to change anything. That looks like it will be a nice sounding subwoofer. The QTS by the manufacturer seems to be off as the program says it should be .538 and the Mercury specifications say .64 Yellow is the 1.8 box, orange the 1.23 box, and red the sealed box.
> 
> View attachment 244311
> 
> ...


It looks like those aluminum ports would need a couple more inches in length with the smaller box, right? I just need to take this into consideration in the box depth (front to back) as the port will be behind the sub _sloping_ up and out of the box...

_Edit: Sloping NOT slopping! Lol_


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> It looks like those aluminum ports would need a couple more inches in length with the smaller box, right? I just need to take this into consideration in the box depth (front to back) as the port will be behind the sub slopping up and out of the box...


Checking... I will edit and post back here. Looking up the port length now.

EDIT: Ok I fixed the port length to 12" which changed the tuning to 33.3 and 27.53 respectively for the smaller and larger ported boxes. See attached updated PDF's. 

View attachment BassBox Pro Murcury 8010 1.23 ported with 12 inch port.pdf


View attachment BassBox Pro Murcury 8010 1.8 ported with 12 inch port.pdf


If you want the tuning to go lower with a fixed 12" port than we would have to increase the box size.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Damn, you went all out! THANK YOU!


Only for you Dave! See attached updated graphs to go along with those updated PDF's. This is with fixed 3" x 12" round ports.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> Checking... I will edit and post back here. Looking up the port length now.
> 
> EDIT: Ok I fixed the port length to 12" which changed the tuning to 33.3 and 27.53 respectively for the smaller and larger ported boxes. See attached updated PDF's.
> 
> ...


Cool, thanks! I can increase or decrease the port length (and box size) as needed, that's not a problem... I am just thinking of what approx dimes the box will be.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Here is the difference in FR with the 31 Hz tune vs 33.3 Hz tune. Not much difference there.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Cool, thanks! I can increase or decrease the port length (and box size) as needed, that's not a problem... I am just thinking of what approx dimes the box will be.


I can do dimensions too and cut sheets.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> Here is the difference in FR with the 31 Hz tune vs 33.3 Hz tune. Not much difference there.
> 
> View attachment 244325


Oops, made a mistake. That graph was actually the larger 1.8 cube box. Here is the graph for the smaller ported box comparing the 31 Hz tune with the 33.3 Hz tune.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Souths1der said:


> Took me a while to figure out those were headphones. I was all "What the f..."


LOL...Me too...I though it was some sort of epoxy polishing machine !!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

JCsAudio said:


> Here is the difference in FR with the 31 Hz tune vs 33.3 Hz tune. Not much difference there.
> 
> View attachment 244325





JCsAudio said:


> I can do dimensions too and cut sheets.





JCsAudio said:


> Oops, made a mistake. That graph was actually the larger 1.8 cube box. Here is the graph for the smaller ported box comparing the 31 Hz tune with the 33.3 Hz tune.
> 
> View attachment 244327


Wow, awesome! Thanks again! I just ordered the ports and the acrylic end table... 
PM me your address in a couple days and I'll send you one of the ports. I know you like to play around with different box builds, too... Aluminum is super hard to find, these are the only ones I was able to find anywhere online.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

What an awesome project! With so many great ideas already, I feel very late to the party (and not nearly so imaginative or creative as any of you). I'm just really looking forward to seeing this come together.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

seafish said:


> LOL...Me too...I though it was some sort of epoxy polishing machine !!!!


Haha, I didn’t realize the photo was sideways. I’ll work on that.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> Did you look at that acrylic end table? If I cut it in half it would give me the perfect curved front for the sub (baffle and window), AND I'd have two pieces encase I ****ed one up! Lol


Those tables are awesome! I didn’t have the space, or equipment to build one, so I made a few sets of drink coasters instead, haha.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> Those tables are awesome! I didn’t have the space, or equipment to build one, so I made a few sets of drink coasters instead, haha.


They turned out great...


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

gijoe said:


> I've worked with wood/epoxy and wood/metal inlay. It's just a classy look to me.


Beyer 990 Pro and Fiio Alpine E17?


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

nyquistrate said:


> Beyer 990 Pro and Fiio Alpine E17?


Correct. I’ve been happy with the combo. I am working on a Raspberry Pi project that with hijack the DAC at least temporarily though.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have been thinking about how to finish the bottom of the box, and I'm leaning toward something like this.

An aluminum sheet with spikes for feet, and use risers to leave a gap between the sub box and the aluminum panel to allow for lighting... Am I making any sense?! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Or how about something like this?


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> I have been thinking about how to finish the bottom of the box, and I'm leaning toward something like this.
> 
> An aluminum sheet with spikes for feet, and use risers to leave a gap between the sub box and the aluminum panel to allow for lighting... Am I making any sense?! Lol


I can see what you’re saying. I think it would look really cool, especially if you can hide the LEDs so that you see the light, but the LED strips aren’t visible. Exposed LEDs look a bit half done to me, but I’m just being picky.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I can see what you’re saying. I think it would look really cool, especially if you can hide the LEDs so that you see the light, but the LED strips aren’t visible. Exposed LEDs look a bit half done to me, but I’m just being picky.


For sure and I agree! I will go to any length on this one to make sure the lights themselves are not visible, but the "effect" of the lighting is super cool!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I like these a lot, too:










https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NYZYFV8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4IWNATC64MMF&psc=1


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## thechainrule (Feb 2, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> That is an awesome idea! Hadn't thought of that... Maybe I can find a zebra wood type veneer and put some curves in the box.
> Wood, acrylic with some polished aluminum trim?!
> 
> 
> ...


Whoa! What is this veneer and where can I get a sheet of it?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

thechainrule said:


> Whoa! What is this veneer and where can I get a sheet of it?


It's really nice, right! I don't remember where I saw that... I just looked it up in Google Images.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

Three words: magnetic levitation


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

BigAl205 said:


> Three words: magnetic levitation


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N6OOWtCYQA


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> I have never built a ported box before, does anyone mind helping out with size and port tuning??
> 
> 
> 
> Sub specs: http://mercurycaraudio.jp/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/MCR-8010Spec.png


I was told those specs were wrong but i have specs straight from the man himself i could send to you

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> I was told those specs were wrong but i have specs straight from the man himself i could send to you
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


That would get great! Could you post them here? Thanks

How do you like the ideas that are coming together for it's box?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> That would get great! Could you post them here? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> How do you like the ideas that are coming together for it's box?


These are what i got from eddie de jesus. Aka the only mercury dealer in the US

By the way. If you went sealed on near rated power. 1.1 cubes internal gross is best









Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> These are what i got from eddie de jesus. Aka the only mercury dealer in the US
> 
> By the way. If you went sealed on near rated power. 1.1 cubes internal gross is best
> 
> ...


Thanks bro!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks bro!


Did you clean up the sub? Again really sorry about that. I didnt realize it

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Holy ****, check this stuff out!!! 


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ebony-Blac...276278?hash=item1a41c06036:g:lggAAOSwUXFcTdoH


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The above is stunning, but I think I would lean toward the uniformity, and clean subtle grain of this stuff:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ebony-Blac...249407?hash=item1cc15e07ff:g:L~oAAOSwnHZYdVuQ


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Another idea for wrapping the wood part of the sub box - black leather, real top grain leather...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Did you clean up the sub? Again really sorry about that. I didnt realize it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Not yet. I'll figure something out... No worries.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Another idea for wrapping the wood part of the sub box - black leather, real top grain leather...


Either would look classy. But the vinyl would be differant. And does look kinda cool

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Either would look classy. But the vinyl would be differant. And does look kinda cool
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


I agree. The wood veneer would be really special AND a new (challenging) experience for me, as I have never done anything like that before. I have done lots of vinyl and leather wrapping...


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> I agree. The wood veneer would be really special AND a new (challenging) experience for me, as I have never done anything like that before. I have done lots of vinyl and leather wrapping...


Sorry i meant the veneer. Its failry simple to work with. Id do repairs on millwork with it a lot. Lay it on the panel. Score a mark,cut it. Glue it down. Then get the finest file you can find and file down the edges till its flush. Very easy. Just takes a little time

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The front of the box will be curved with the acrylic and the back of the box will be curved with plywood (covered with veneer). Soooooo, I guess I am going to have to learn to do some kerf bending... :worried:

Also, I thought of cutting multiple pieces of plywood to a curved shape and gluing them together, and I might still go this route.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> The front of the box will be curved with the acrylic and the back of the box will be curved with plywood (covered with veneer)....
> Also, I thought of cutting multiple pieces of plywood to a curved shape and gluing them together, and I might still go this route.


IMO, the second approach can make a MUCH stronger enclosure with less need for internal bracing, since you can make the width of the individual curved pieces broader (wider??) through their curved area while still getting the curve shape that you want. And once the first curved piece is done, it is simply a matter if setting up your new router table to be used like a copy machine to make the rest of the pieces.

Of course it will also be much heavier, but that isn't a bad thing... looking at that beast of a sub you are going to attach to it.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> IMO, the second approach can make a MUCH stronger enclosure with less need for internal bracing, since you can make the width of the individual curved pieces broader (wider??) through their curved area while still getting the curve shape that you want. And once the first curved piece is done, it is simply a matter if setting up your new router table to be used like a copy machine to make the rest of the pieces.
> 
> Of course it will also be much heavier, but that isn't a bad thing... looking at that beast of a sub you are going to attach to it.


Good point... Hell, I might even be able to stack some plywood and hit it with a huge round over bit, depending on the radius of the curve in the acrylic end table (which I want to match). 

Example:


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## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

David - I think multiple layers of thin (3mm?) ply is the way to go. Also, if you are still thinking of the plinth block with spikes, I think a thicker block (1/2"+) would look better.


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## Souths1der (Aug 27, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Sorry i meant the veneer. Its failry simple to work with. Id do repairs on millwork with it a lot. Lay it on the panel. Score a mark,cut it. Glue it down. Then get the finest file you can find and file down the edges till its flush. Very easy. Just takes a little time
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Is there any concern that the adhesive will break down over time in a car environment along with the vibrations from the driver?


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Souths1der said:


> Is there any concern that the adhesive will break down over time in a car environment along with the vibrations from the driver?


Many speaker cabinets have the veneer on them i dont see an issue with it as long as you use high quality material (glue) i mean i do repairs of veneer a lot for restroom counter tops that get wet on a daily basis. If done right it will outlast the wood

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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

The veneer I've done has been adhered with contact cement, there's no way that's coming apart. The flip side to that is you cannot re-position the veneer, so you need to be very careful about getting it positioned correctly, without bubbles, because once you stick it down it's going to stay.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

gijoe said:


> The veneer I've done has been adhered with contact cement, there's no way that's coming apart. The flip side to that is you cannot preposition the veneer, so you need to be very careful about getting it positioned correctly, without bubbles, because once you stick it down it's going to stay.


Exactly. Also starting from 1 side and working to the other with a roller like a cld roller helps get bubbles out

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OldNewbie said:


> David - I think multiple layers of thin (3mm?) ply is the way to go. Also, if you are still thinking of the plinth block with spikes, I think a thicker block (1/2"+) would look better.


For sure, but price and availability?! 

Actually, it shouldn't be too bad. The box's footprint shouldn't be more than about 14x20...



gijoe said:


> The veneer I've done has been adhered with contact cement, there's no way that's coming apart. The flip side to that is you cannot re-position the veneer, so you need to be very careful about getting it positioned correctly, without bubbles, because once you stick it down it's going to stay.


Maybe I should wait to do the aluminum inlays until AFTER I lay the veneer (in order to fill flaws/bubbles with the inlay)! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Exactly. Also starting from 1 side and working to the other with a roller like a cld roller helps get bubbles out
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


In my case, I will have to start from front to back as there will be a significant curve to the back of the box... But it's not a huge area to cover, so it shouldn't be too hard. I am going to get enough veneer to do a little practice and testing before I attempt the real deal. I have a CLD roller and that is a good idea. I also thought of using a rolling pin that is the width of or wider than the area I am covering to avoid any grooves or low spots from the smaller roller (I could be overthinking this whole thing, too).


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> In my case, I will have to start from front to back as there will be a significant curve to the back of the box... But it's not a huge area to cover, so it shouldn't be too hard. I am going to get enough veneer to do a little practice and testing before I attempt the real deal. I have a CLD roller and that is a good idea. I also thought of using a rolling pin that is the width of or wider than the area I am covering to avoid any grooves or low spots from the smaller roller (I could be overthinking this whole thing, too).


You are over thinking but thats not a bad thing. Bigger is better

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## No ConeSS (Aug 26, 2015)

OK, so maybe this idea is over the top, but thinking about crazy (I'm mean, like KA-RAYZEE) custom PC builds, you could integrate an amp into the enclosure, and liquid cool the amp by fully submerging it in mineral oil and have it back lit. Like a fish tank theme, since the sub is "Mercury", like Mercury Marine.

Of course, the sub wouldn't be submerged, there'd be a panel in the enclosure to separate the sub's air chamber from the amps oil chamber. That way the whole thing would be self-contained.

To take it a step further, the dividing panel could be made of some drift wood or some other unique wood then do the blue epoxy pour down the middle to make it look like a river. Kind of like you were taking a cross section of a river bed. From the side, you see the wood divider and amp lurking underneath in the oil (water) [is there a Loch Ness amp???]. Above is the sub floating in air.

Just thinking waaaaay outside the box.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> In my case, I will have to start from front to back as there will be a significant curve to the back of the box... But it's not a huge area to cover, so it shouldn't be too hard. I am going to get enough veneer to do a little practice and testing before I attempt the real deal. I have a CLD roller and that is a good idea. I also thought of using a rolling pin that is the width of or wider than the area I am covering to avoid any grooves or low spots from the smaller roller (I could be overthinking this whole thing, too).


You might could vacuum bag it


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

No ConeSS said:


> OK, so maybe this idea is over the top, but thinking about crazy (I'm mean, like KA-RAYZEE) custom PC builds, you could integrate an amp into the enclosure, and liquid cool the amp by fully submerging it in mineral oil and have it back lit. Like a fish tank theme, since the sub is "Mercury", like Mercury Marine.
> 
> Of course, the sub wouldn't be submerged, there'd be a panel in the enclosure to separate the sub's air chamber from the amps oil chamber. That way the whole thing would be self-contained.
> 
> ...


Yeah man, that IS crazy! I like it a lot, but it's crazy! :laugh:

That's something for when I retire...


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## moodue (Nov 25, 2018)

SHAGGS said:


> Google "wood epoxy table"
> 
> You can mix automotive metallic paint or translucent candy, into the epoxy for some killer designs, from logos, to "river" effects.
> An inlay, or a full panel for accent, in an acrylic box would look killer!


I played around with this idea for my subwoofer enclosure. 

All of the epoxy resin I could find at my local hardware stores were only rated up to ~110 degrees F. 

So I decided I don't want a pool of epoxy resin in my car haha.


edit: Also that idea ^^ is still awesome... even with the epoxy.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

ToNasty said:


> You are over thinking but thats not a bad thing. Bigger is better
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Not in this case. You want the most force applied. A roller is not the tool for veneer. You use a veneer scraper. Super slick blade that puts all of your force down on a .050" x 3" area. 

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Scraper-for-Backed-Veneers.html


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OCD66 said:


> Not in this case. You want the most force applied. A roller is not the tool for veneer. You use a veneer scraper. Super slick blade that puts all of your force down on a .050" x 3" area.
> 
> https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Scraper-for-Backed-Veneers.html


Cool, good to know, thanks. The end of that thing looks like one of those scrappers for installing window tint film...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ok, my next wild idea for this box:

Instead of bolts or screws, use threaded rods to screw in the sub that run the full length of the box! They would be inside polished aluminum tubing!

Can you picture that? 8 long, polished tubes that hold the bolts for the sub?!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Haha...that is an excellent idea and would look AWESOME inside a plexi enclosure. FYI-- I use wooden dowels between the front and back panels of my ply enclosures at every sub baffle mounting point....it makes for a SERIOUSLY stiff box and since I am not looking for flash, it works fast and great!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> Haha...that is an excellent idea and would look AWESOME inside a plexi enclosure. FYI-- I use wooden dowels between the front and back panels of my ply enclosures at every sub baffle mounting point....it makes for a SERIOUSLY stiff box and since I am not looking for flash, it works fast and great!!!



Good point. The other thing I am thinking about is maybe using the entire acrylic end table and making the sides and bottom out of wood with the veneer. Then make everything super visible, including how the port goes into the box...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Ok, my next wild idea for this box:
> 
> Instead of bolts or screw, threaded rods to screw in the sub that run the full length of the box! They would be inside polished aluminum tubing!
> 
> Can you picture that? 8 long, polished tubes that hold the bolts for the sub?!





seafish said:


> Haha...that is an excellent idea and would look AWESOME inside a plexi enclosure. FYI-- I use wooden dowels between the front and back panels of my ply enclosures at every sub baffle mounting point....it makes for a SERIOUSLY stiff box and since I am not looking for flash, it works fast and great!!!



Elegant! I love it when beautiful form follows optimal function.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Good point. The other thing I am thinking about is maybe using the entire acrylic end table and making the sides and bottom out of wood with the veneer. Then make everything super visible, including how the port goes into the box...


That sounds really nice!!! Super unique, too (I think)!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Ok, my next wild idea for this box:
> 
> Instead of bolts or screws, use threaded rods to screw in the sub that run the full length of the box! They would be inside polished aluminum tubing!
> 
> Can you picture that? 8 long, polished tubes that hold the bolts for the sub?!


I would be a little leery of the threaded rod sleeved with aluminum tubing. Without a really right fit, you may induce rattles when the sub pressurizes the enclosure. Maybe even from the simple vibration of the subwoofer. Alternately you might try tapping some thick wall aluminum tubing or drilling and tapping the ends of aluminum round stock. 

And if you don't mind the looks of the threads, you can also get fully threaded aluminum rods. For instance...
https://www.grainger.com/product/10P780?gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0IieajBTxfuYzN3t5pzjOeBRrEuwr4o_rNQ6KLAStaC3_VaHfP8QgVPixhoCS-8QAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0IieajBTxfuYzN3t5pzjOeBRrEuwr4o_rNQ6KLAStaC3_VaHfP8QgVPixhoCS-8QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264974130391!!!g!467374301964!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I would be a little leery of the threaded rod sleeved with aluminum tubing. Without a really right fit, you may induce rattles when the sub pressurizes the enclosure. Maybe even from the simple vibration of the subwoofer. Alternately you might try tapping some thick wall aluminum tubing or drilling and tapping the ends of aluminum round stock.
> 
> And if you don't mind the looks of the threads, you can also get fully threaded aluminum rods. For instance...
> https://www.grainger.com/product/10P780?gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0IieajBTxfuYzN3t5pzjOeBRrEuwr4o_rNQ6KLAStaC3_VaHfP8QgVPixhoCS-8QAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0IieajBTxfuYzN3t5pzjOeBRrEuwr4o_rNQ6KLAStaC3_VaHfP8QgVPixhoCS-8QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264974130391!!!g!467374301964!


Good point, and that is definitely something I considered... I would not use the aluminum sleeves themselves for any type of support (only the steel threaded rod). I would use grommets on the ends so that they are held with some pressure, but there would be no metal on metal (no aluminum sleeve touching the rod, or sub or box). 

I am also thinking of only doing four of the eight bolts, because eight might look a little too busy...


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

take a look at JT Tores work/Mobile solutions...they did some pretty fancy stuff


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> Good point, and that is definitely something I considered... I would not use the aluminum sleeves themselves for any type of support (only the steel threaded rod). I would use grommets on the ends so that they are held with some pressure, but there would be no metal on metal (no aluminum sleeve touching the rod, or sub or box).
> 
> I am also thinking of only doing four of the eight bolts, because eight might look a little too busy...


I used threaded rod with aluminum/steel tubing on the (sideways) headphone stand I posted up earlier. I drilled the hole for the threaded rod, then drilled a slightly larger hole to countersink the aluminum into. You could do something similar, and add a touch of glue to the countersunk portion if you want to ensure that it doesn't move around, but rton20s' thoughts should be considered, you certainly doing want any noise coming from the rod/tubing.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

The sub reminds me of an art-deco type of look. What about some nice stained wood with stainless steel inlays that look like the art-deco looks from the 40s when appliances had that type of look? The 'streamlined' look. Or the inlays could be frosted plexi that light up with LED's behind, giving the sub a nice glow. 

If doing acrylic, go real fancy and have the port flare formed INTO the acrylic. I saw this once in the Alpine ZR1 from the early 90's. Looked so cool but I'm sure big $$$ to have done. The baffle was 1" thick I think. Or use some slick rolled-edge or double-wall exhaust tips for port tubes. Megs makes some nice tips.


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## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

SUX 2BU said:


> The sub reminds me of an art-deco type of look. What about some nice stained wood with stainless steel inlays that look like the art-deco looks from the 40s when appliances had that type of look? The 'streamlined' look. Or the inlays could be frosted plexi that light up with LED's behind, giving the sub a nice glow.


David, this sounds like a great idea, if you are into a sort of nouveau art deco, which I am.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I used threaded rod with aluminum/steel tubing on the (sideways) headphone stand I posted up earlier. I drilled the hole for the threaded rod, then drilled a slightly larger hole to countersink the aluminum into. You could do something similar, and add a touch of glue to the countersunk portion if you want to ensure that it doesn't move around, but rton20s' thoughts should be considered, you certainly doing want any noise coming from the rod/tubing.


That's a good idea, too... 



SUX 2BU said:


> The sub reminds me of an art-deco type of look. What about some nice stained wood with stainless steel inlays that look like the art-deco looks from the 40s when appliances had that type of look? The 'streamlined' look. Or the inlays could be frosted plexi that light up with LED's behind, giving the sub a nice glow.
> 
> If doing acrylic, go real fancy and have the port flare formed INTO the acrylic. I saw this once in the Alpine ZR1 from the early 90's. Looked so cool but I'm sure big $$$ to have done. The baffle was 1" thick I think. Or use some slick rolled-edge or double-wall exhaust tips for port tubes. Megs makes some nice tips.


Very cool ideas... Thanks! I think, inevitably, it could take on a little bit of an Art Deco look. I even had this thought to cover the interior in a black velvet-like fabric! Lol
The "colors/finishes will be blacks and greys with polished metals, but I might add a pop of color like red...



OldNewbie said:


> David, this sounds like a great idea, if you are Dinto a sort of nouveau Art Deco, which I am.


I am into it! 


The next thing I need to figure out is the hardware. The acrylic front will be screwed/bolted to the plywood (as mentioned above). I usually like to have the hardware be a prominent part of the design, rather just be functional and recessed into the materials. Plus, I hate plain, ugly hardware, especially drywall screws (yep, that was a little reference to that "other" thread)! Lmao


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> The next thing I need to figure out is the hardware. The acrylic front will be screwed/bolted to the plywood (as mentioned above). I usually like to have the hardware be a prominent part of the design, rather just be functional and recessed into the materials. Plus, I hate plain, ugly hardware, especially drywall screws (yep, that was a little reference to that "other" thread)! Lmao


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

chithead said:


>


Wow! Those are beautiful!


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## mcgsxr (Jul 19, 2018)

Titanium?

Looks like stuff from bicycle or motorcycle racing. Could be metric hardware, but should be available in imperial sizes too.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> https://i.pinimg.com/originals][/QUOTE]
> 
> Those are wild! I think you are on the right track with automotive stuff... That's a much bigger market for fancy nuts and bolts. I remember paying an arm and a leg for some Billet Technology frame bolts and washers for my Ram...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

www.probolt-usa.com

Nice stuff right here ^^^. Check out all three - aluminum, stainless and titanium. Beautiful stuff. I wasn't thinking gold, but damn that looks nice!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Still playing with some ideas... 

I need to determine exactly how big this box needs to be and go buy some BB plywood and start chopping it up!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Oh no you di int!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

1.1 cubes internal gross fro what my mercury guy said is what they build their boxes to for these on 5-600 watts of power


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> 1.1 cubes internal gross fro what my mercury guy said is what they build their boxes to for these on 5-600 watts of power


I'm going ported... I think you posted the specs somewhere. I'll have to find them


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> I'm going ported... I think you posted the specs somewhere. I'll have to find them


Ahh ported specs I have no idea. I never asked him

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Does anyone have experience with veneers and which type to choose??

I am definitely going with this one:










I just don't know what kind of backing to go with... 

No backing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112772322860

Paper backing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113808207585

Wood backing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123503249407


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Does anyone have experience with veneers and which type to choose??
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was thinking you need a nice gold mercury amp to pair with the sub 

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> I was thinking you need a nice gold mercury amp to pair with the sub
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I saw that FS thread... If this was for me then I'd have jumped on it. 






*Edit: On a different note - NO drywall screws will be used in the making of this box! LOL*


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> I saw that FS thread... If this was for me then I'd have jumped on it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Drywall screws and caulking are life

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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

There must be some Italian boutique drywall screws that will work! (Joke)


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> .... *Edit: On a different note - NO drywall screws will be used in the making of this box! LOL*


Of course. All you need are torx-drive deck screws.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> There must be some Italian boutique drywall screws that will work! (Joke)





Grinder said:


> Of course. All you need are torx-drive deck screws.


I'm gonna use nails instead! :laugh:


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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> I'm gonna use nails instead! :laugh:


Make sure that they are actual drywall nails though...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Blu said:


> Make sure that they are actual drywall nails though...


_BRAAAAAAVO!!!_ :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> Does anyone have experience with veneers and which type to choose??
> 
> I am definitely going with this one:
> 
> ...


Excellent work so far. I can see where you’re going with this build and it’s going to look great. Very “Modern” styling.

Just found this link for veneer types: https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/backed-veneer.htm

From the above choices I’d go with wood backed which will decrease the chances of bubbling.

Subscribed!


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Ziricote is interesting too:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

My first experience with veneers... It came out pretty good. This stuff is going to look REALLY good once I apply the poly seal!


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Looks great!

Curious which backing choice for the veneer you went with?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Chris12 said:


> Looks great!
> 
> Curious which backing choice for the veneer you went with?


Thanks! 

Paper. I had many emails with JSO Woods where I bought this stuff from, and they highly recommended paper backing for it's easy of use (me being a newbie and all). For how thin and fragile it seems, this stuff is really pretty tough.

I used the water based Weldwood contact cement... I think I could really get into laying these veneers more often! When I get to the part where I will be inlaying aluminum in it, is where it will get harder.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

We work with quite a bit of veneer and I far prefer wood backed veneer. We use clamps and cauls with Titebond Cold Press glue though Titebond 3 works well too. Put the bottle of glue in the fridge prior to use so you’ll have more working time to clamp it properly.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

It's been a while since I checked in on this. I'm liking what I'm seeing so far. Veneer is fun, but mistakes can get expensive. I'm excited to see this come together.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> We work with quite a bit of veneer and I far prefer wood backed veneer. We use clamps and cauls with Titebond Cold Press glue though Titebond 3 works well too. Put the bottle of glue in the fridge prior to use so you’ll have more working time to clamp it properly.


Interesting. Thanks for the tip! Obviously, I have a lot to learn...

What I like about the Weldwood was the NO-clamping. Apply adhesive to both sides, wait 60 minutes, join them and apply pressure all around. DONE! 

What is the recommend method of trimming the edges? Router and flush trim bit?

I did it all by hand - trimmed it back with a blade, sanded gently with a rough grit and finally sanded smooth with 400 grit.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> It's been a while since I checked in on this. I'm liking what I'm seeing so far. Veneer is fun, but mistakes can get expensive. I'm excited to see this come together.


Thanks! Fortunately, there is no timeline or deadline for this thing, so I'll go nice and slow to minimize mistakes...

Btw, last night, in a rare moment of brilliance, I came up with how I'm going to do the aluminum inlay:

Instead of flush with the veneer as is typical, I am going to use aluminum rods like this,








router out a half circle into the wood/veneer surface and recess the rods half way down into the wood. They would then have a more 3 dimensional look as half of the rod would stick up out of the wood, and it would be something totally different, imho.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Interesting. Thanks for the tip! Obviously, I have a lot to learn...
> 
> What I like about the Weldwood was the NO-clamping. Apply adhesive to both sides, wait 60 minutes, join them and apply pressure all around. DONE!
> 
> ...


Contact adhesive is definitely an option. 

The quick and easy answer is a flush trim bit with bearing. However, I find that the bit leaves a slight impression on the veneer. If trimming veneer to a bare wood side, we use a normal flush trim bit. When trimming veneer to a side already veneered, we use the Bosch Colt router with the roller guide (https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/router-attachments-palm-routers-pr003-28029-p/), which we set to leave a little of the veneer proud. Then we just use a flat block with sandpaper to smooth and level it.

If you don’t want to invest in a router, you could go with a flush trim saw and put a few layers of tape to protect the veneer as well as make the flush trim saw cut proud. Then sand flush.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> Contact adhesive is definitely an option.
> 
> The quick and easy answer is a flush trim bit with bearing. However, I find that the bit leaves a slight impression on the veneer. If trimming veneer to a bare wood side, we use a normal flush trim bit. When trimming veneer to a side already veneered, we use the Bosch Colt router with the roller guide (https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/router-attachments-palm-routers-pr003-28029-p/), which we set to leave a little of the veneer proud. Then we just use a flat block with sandpaper to smooth and level it.
> 
> If you don’t want to invest in a router, you could go with a flush trim saw and put a few layers of tape to protect the veneer as well as make the flush trim saw cut proud. Then sand flush.


Ok, good to know, thanks! Because of my inexperience, I didn't want to just hit it with the router and risk ruining it. It's veneer to bare wood, the flush trim bit would have worked fine...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I started working on the port... Found the perfect piece of pvc. I'll fill in the center with a fitting and seal it off really good with epoxy.
45 degree angle looks good to me.


----------



## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> I started working on the port... Found the perfect piece of pvc. I'll fill in the center with a fitting and seal it off really good with epoxy.
> 
> 45 degree angle looks good to me.


Yup!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Sano!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I Bondoed the joint between the pvc and the wood, so it's a nice smooth transition for the carpet. I'm pleasantly surprised how well stuff sticks to pvc... 






























This is the piece that will seal to the aluminum port and also seal to the pvc... I am going to any length to make sure this thing is built like a tank and air tight!






















Speaking of air tight, here are the little housings that are gonna hold the t-nuts that will secure the acrylic to the wood.


----------



## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

After watching this thread. I'm going to do it. I'm going to use this on my amp rack instead of carpet. It will pretty well match the vinyl wrap I'm using for the interior trim 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilsona...ium-High-Gloss-Finish-7944K13504896/202791908


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

yeah that Madagascar laminate looks nice! If you have a Woodcraft.com store near you, they have many types of veneer (wood type) in stock that you can check out too.

Ok where is DavidRam…. no progress on this box, no new Trackhawk… no nothing... must have been out partying and surfing all weekend!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> yeah that Madagascar laminate looks nice! If you have a Woodcraft.com store near you, they have many types of veneer (wood type) in stock that you can check out too.
> 
> Ok where is DavidRam…. no progress on this box, no new Trackhawk… no nothing... must have been out partying and surfing all weekend!!!


I wish I could say my life/weekend is that exciting... :blush: I neither party nor surf. Lol

I run a retail store, so Holiday weekends typically mean extra hours at work for me.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> I wish I could say my life/weekend is that exciting... :blush: I neither party nor surf. Lol


Oh come on David...

Surf and party is all people in California do. Board shorts, bikinis and booze..


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Chris12 said:


> Oh come on David...
> 
> Surf and party is all people in California do. Board shorts, bikinis and booze..


Lol! True. I guess I'm the odd ball... I live a short walk to the beach, but I never go to the beach. I live here for the climate, it's so perfect.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Not much progress, but a couple pics anyways... Once all the inner wood pieces are done and glued together, I'll give everything 3 coats of satin polyurethane.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Not much progress, but a couple pics anyways... Once all the inner wood pieces are done and glued together, I'll give everything 3 coats of satin polyurethane.


What enclosure size did you come up with for it ?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> What enclosure size did you come up with for it ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


About 1.5 cuft, IIRC...


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Oooo sweeeet!
That's what the little cubes are for!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> Oooo sweeeet!
> That's what the little cubes are for!


Yep! There are m5 t-nuts embedded in the little cubes that will hold the acrylic in place (and pull it air tight against the gasket/enclosure).


On another note, I have been experimenting with the lighting I will be using, and it amazes me how light travels through acrylic! Obviously the acrylic is in an L shape and when you light up one end of it, the light shines out of the other end with surprising intensity... It doesn't look like the light is traveling through it in the clear, unobstructed areas though. Pretty freakin cool! I am going to play around with this effect before I make a final decision on where the LEDs will be mounted, because getting this right will have an awesome affect on how this thing looks.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Even more amazing to me is "curved" light in water.

https://archive.nerdist.com/heres-how-you-can-catch-light-in-a-bucket/


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> Even more amazing to me is "curved" light in water.
> 
> https://archive.nerdist.com/heres-how-you-can-catch-light-in-a-bucket/


That's really cool, too. 


No, I am not adding a water feature to the sub box! Lol


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> .... No, I am not adding a water feature to the sub box! Lol


Dang... I was about to suggest a "sub-marine" / "sub-merged" theme, tho! You could have little fishes and coral in there and everything! I mean, it's already damn near an Aquarium! 



j/k


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Dang... I was about to suggest a "sub-marine" / "sub-merged" theme, tho! You could have little fishes and coral in there and everything! I mean, it's already damn near an Aquarium!
> 
> 
> 
> j/k


Haha! And a mermaid leaning up against the sub...


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

whoa... bending light … is that like black magic happening there???


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Haha! And a mermaid leaning up against the sub...


That might get you sponsorship by Deep Sea Sound.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Still deciding on lighting... :blush: 

The plexiglass is dirty, that's why it looks so foggy.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Wow... it's pretty!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Nice, it's really starting to take shape.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Nice! Where's the mermaid, tho???


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys! Apparently mermaids are playing hard to get these days... something to do with the #MeToo movement. Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm trying to decide what shape to put in the sides... The inside of the shape will be a veneer with aluminum inlay, and the outside will be carpet. 

Do I mimic the shape of the box, or do I make some random shape?


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> I'm trying to decide what shape to put in the sides... The inside of the shape will be a veneer with aluminum inlay, and the outside will be carpet.
> 
> Do I mimic the shape of the box, or do I make some random shape?


....


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> I'm trying to decide what shape to put in the sides... The inside of the shape will be a veneer with aluminum inlay, and the outside will be carpet.
> 
> Do I mimic the shape of the box, or do I make some random shape?


...seriously though, I like the box-shaped one.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

Maybe a logo stuck on with magnets, that way you can change it if desired.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> ...seriously though, I like the box-shaped one.


That's what I was leaning toward... I started thinking about the aluminum inlay - what if I made the inlay angled like the port, sorta copying it's shape and angle as if you could see it?


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> That's what I was leaning toward... I started thinking about the aluminum inlay - what if I made the inlay angled like the port, sorta copying it's shape and angle as if you could see it?


Perfect! That would look awesome!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I like the look of following the enclosure shape as well. You might also want to try a mock up with the materials you plan to use before committing to a specific inlay for the aluminum.


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> That's what I was leaning toward... I started thinking about the aluminum inlay - what if I made the inlay angled like the port, sorta copying it's shape and angle as if you could see it?


I agree that this looks great. The diagonal graphic also serves to tie in (and bring attention to) the port


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Yeah you turned professional already building/installing for others... you need a logo on the front!! 

The oval inlay is too much like a Ford thing... maybe no oval for you please lol....
Sometimes may not need an inlay if you're the minimalist style guy. Just some textured/pattern paint inside may already work fine.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Perfect! That would look awesome!


I think so too, thanks!



rton20s said:


> I like the look of following the enclosure shape as well. You might also want to try a mock up with the materials you plan to use before committing to a specific inlay for the aluminum.


I can do that, I think I have everything on hand... The port is 3" in diameter, so I would use a 3" wide piece of aluminum. 



Chris12 said:


> I agree that this looks great. The diagonal graphic also serves to tie in (and bring attention to) the port


Totally, at least in concept, right?! Lol



diy.phil said:


> Yeah you turned professional already building/installing for others... you need a logo on the front!!
> 
> The oval inlay is too much like a Ford thing... maybe no oval for you please lol....
> Sometimes may not need an inlay if you're the minimalist style guy. Just some textured/pattern paint inside may already work fine.


I agree, definitely not doing a Ford thing here. Not that there is anything wrong with Ford... Though, actually, there is often something wrong with Fords. 

Anyways back on track... 

The inlay should look really cool, and also tie the outside in with the inside... Wait until you see the legs that I will be making out of aluminum...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Oh, I got the LEDs I will be using... I couldn't decide on color, so I just got an RGB set-up with a remote.

AND I decided on the hardware. It will be these
https://www.probolt-usa.com/black-steel-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mmx-25mm16mmhead.html
to secure the plexi to the box, and these
https://www.probolt-usa.com/black-steel-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mmx-30mm.html
to mount the sub to the plexi.

They are matching, except the one that for the plexi to the box has a 16mm head, and the one for the sub to the plexi has a 12mm head. The 12mm just fits on the sub if I shave about a little off of it's diameter.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Wait until you see the legs that I will be making out of aluminum...



I'm picturing four of these...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Oh, I got the LEDs I will be using... I couldn't decide on color, so I just got an RGB set-up with a remote.
> 
> AND I decided on the hardware. It will be these
> https://www.probolt-usa.com/black-steel-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mmx-25mm16mmhead.html
> ...


Very nice. Can't wait to see it completed. 

...and those sexy legs, tho!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

sorry my bad... I just realized the inside has a nice wood grain pattern (I shouldn't say paint here lol)

Edit: shouldn't, not should lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> I'm picturing four of these...


Not quite, Lol! 

Something more along the lines of the aluminum in the dap holder I built recently. 






























Grinder said:


> Very nice. Can't wait to see it completed.
> 
> ...and those sexy legs, tho!


Crazy. $80 for 17 screws! 



diy.phil said:


> sorry my bad... I just realized the inside has a nice wood grain pattern (I should say paint here lol)


Lol. The veneer will get a satin clear coat...

The theme is actually kinda organized - satin on all the large flat surfaces, and polished on all of the aluminum parts (port, trim, legs) and hardware. The sub has a satiny brushed look to it, so it'll be unique. 

I thought of doing the aluminum parts in brushed, but then I saw the light reflect off of the polished end of the port and I said "nope, this thing needs to glisten."


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Not quite, Lol!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been looking for a holder for the x3 but none are made 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> I've been looking for a holder for the x3 but none are made
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Nope. You are gonna have to go custom... Maybe building it into the console?

I have made so many dap holders, but unfortunately none for the x3 3rd gen you have... This is from my x3 2nd gen in the Mazda.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Nope. You are gonna have to go custom... Maybe building it into the console?
> 
> 
> 
> I have made so many dap holders, but unfortunately none for the x3 3rd gen you have... This is from my x3 2nd gen in the Mazda.


Maybe I'll pay you to make me one? I dont want to mold it in the center console. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Maybe I'll pay you to make me one? I dont want to mold it in the center console.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


What kind of function are you looking for and where do you want it to go? 

Honestly, I don't really do this stuff for money...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Damn, those are some "high maintenance" screws! LOL

All that polished aluminum matching the port (and screws) is going to look killer!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> What kind of function are you looking for and where do you want it to go?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I don't really do this stuff for money...


Nothing is free. Just to attach to the console and I can pull it out when I want to take it out. If I remember right you had a mount in your cupholder. Which would be perfect 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Nothing is free. Just to attach to the console and I can pull it out when I want to take it out. If I remember right you had a mount in your cupholder. Which would be perfect
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Here is my current in the Jeep


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Here is my current in the Jeep


Exactly like that

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Damn, those are some "high maintenance" screws! LOL
> 
> All that polished aluminum matching the port (and screws) is going to look killer!


I know, I feel like I got *screw*ed!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Exactly like that
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Here's an easy way 

Epoxy or screw this into the cup holder








https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EET8X8Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2XENS8LQP1A6D&psc=1

Epoxy or double sided tape this to the dap








https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O8LF26/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2XENS8LQP1A6D&psc=1

Connect the two with this








https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CU9BTKY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2XENS8LQP1A6D&psc=1

Solid as a rock! 



Or you could get this package deal, but the electronic mount would have to be cut down a bit, it's too long. 








https://www.amazon.com/RAM-MOUNTS-R...7&pf_rd_r=QH7DGV95KMXXWXSBKS8W&qid=1568256686


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Here's an easy way
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm lost 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Not much to report, just a sign of life... 


The box is getting a second skin of 3/4 or 1/2 birch plywood. There won't be much bracing, so I want it solid as rock! 

The cut out is for the wire terminals, I wanted them to be flush with the back of the box, so they'll be recessed. Also, the LED's will have a USB female plug embedded in the box (facing down) in the spot that I didn't round over. I thought this would be much cleaner than just wire hanging out. All of the LEDs wires will also be embedded in the wood, nothing visible anywhere. 










Notice how the joints are staggered. All of the joints are super tight, but JUST IN CASE there is a second panel covering the joint.  I should increase my OCD meds dosage... 










Can't wait to you use this enormous round over bit! It will give the back of the box the exact radius of the acrylic in the front.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Not much to report, just a sign of life...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Didnt want wires hanging out everywhere? You do realize tie wraps and duct tape fox anything right?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Didnt want wires hanging out everywhere? You do realize tie wraps and duct tape fox anything right?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Naw... Not on this one. I want this thing to look like jewelry when it's done. 


*Btw, I am looking for really nice binding posts, if anyone knows of some... *

These things are nice, but I'm still looking:


















https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Acousti...954640?hash=item44082d2d90:g:p1oAAOSwOyZZd12P


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

You gonna bend and polish some tubing for the wires, like robolop did in his BMW?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SHAGGS said:


> You gonna bend and polish some tubing for the wires, like robolop did in his BMW?


I thought about doing that... Haven't quite decided on that part. I think I have enough metal already, though. I don't know...


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## mcgsxr (Jul 19, 2018)

Not sure they are the coolest looking, but lots of speaker builders go with these tube connectors from Danny at GR Research.

Electra Cable Tube Connectors


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I recessed the LED cables in the plywood and filled the shallow areas with wood filler and the larger areas with epoxy. 




















Here are the feet. They will be a combination of brushed and polished...


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

It's been 5 days. You're moving at a glacial pace


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> It's been 5 days. You're moving at a glacial pace


Glacial would be an accomplishment... I feel like it's even slower than that. My business is working me to the bone.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Glacial would be an accomplishment... I feel like it's even slower than that. My business is working me to the bone.


Just giving you ****. I'm working at the same pace. Just excited to see the finished product 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Just giving you ****. I'm working at the same pace. Just excited to see the finished product
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I know, and I can't wait to see it done and lit up, too. Plus, I have a couple of other projects waiting in line...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, kinda disappointing... When I applied the clear poly to the veneer on the inside of the box, I didn't like it at all. Rather than turning a dark grey, with black grain like I expected, it turned a brown-ish-plum color. I guess I should have tested that before I did all the work... 

The inside of the box is going to be satin black paint, AND I need to figure out a different finish/treatment for the outside of the box in the recessed area... I'm still going to use some aluminum in that area as well.


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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

DavidRam said:


> Well, kinda disappointing... When I applied the clear poly to the veneer on the inside of the box, I didn't like it at all. Rather than turning a dark grey, with black grain like I expected, it turned a brown-ish-plum color. I guess I should have tested that before I did all the work...
> 
> The inside of the box is going to be satin black paint, AND I need to figure out a different finish/treatment for the outside of the box in the recessed area... I'm still going to use some aluminum in that area as well.


I vote top right! Beautiful craftsmanship!


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

I make our commercial veneer subs very black by using a dye and stain combo.

I use Behlen Solar Lux Black Dye and a General Finishes Water-Based Black Stain. Using the Behlen first and then the GF, results in a very black finish. We then topcoat with a more expensive poly but for small projects I’ve also had good luck with Mineax Wipe-On Poly.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I cut out the panels that will go on the sides... I decided not to go crazy trying to carpet the box in one piece. The side panels will get carpeted before they are glued on. I rabbeted (is that a word?) around the panels edges so the carpet can be folded in on both the box and the panels.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Wow, that is looking awesome!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Great progress, it's really coming together!


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

VERY nice. I’m actually excited to see how it turns out.

What car is this going in?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys!!!

Btw, how many box builders put LEDs back by the wire terminals?!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Chris12 said:


> VERY nice. I’m actually excited to see how it turns out.
> 
> What car is this going in?


No plans for it yet... I am just building this box for fun.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Still trying to decide how to finish the recessed panels on the outside of the box... I ordered a sample of this black shadow camo vinyl:










Also, consider this brushed steel vinyl:










and lastly, this diamond speckled flat black vinyL:


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

I like the brushed.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Carpeted the side panels... They look a little frumpy in the picture, they actually came out really clean. Maybe I need to manscape them a little!:laugh:


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

It is manscaping if you're trimming a box?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> It is manscaping if you're trimming a box?


Uummm, good question... It's *my* box though... Does that make it manscaping?! Lol


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

unsubscribe!! I don't want to see before and after pictures!! ! !


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

diy.phil said:


> unsubscribe!! I don't want to see before and after pictures!! ! !


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> unsubscribe!! I don't want to see before and after pictures!! ! !



*BEFORE:*


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> *BEFORE:*


Good lord...!!! :laugh:


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> Uummm, good question... It's *my* box though... Does that make it manscaping?! Lol


Pretty sure that there are some letters in the alphabet that can be combined to describe just your situation... That said, I am NOT sure what they are....I'll check the gender affirmation poster in my doctors office next time I'm there and get back to you on this one.

:laugh:


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

You guys need to be punished!!! !!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> *BEFORE:*


I'm waiting at the edge of my chair for the AFTER photo.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> I'm waiting at the edge of my chair for the AFTER photo.


I think there are diyma rules prohibiting that! :laugh:


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

I thought I unsubscribed? 

Did you finish trimming that bushy carpet or waiting for some hot new tools from amazon......


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> I thought I unsubscribed?
> 
> Did you finish trimming that bushy carpet or waiting for some hot new tools from amazon......


Lol! Are we still talking about car audio?!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

They sell lint shavers that would probably work (on the carpet, in case that needed clarifying). We'd use them to take the excess fuzz off of our berets.

https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> They sell lint shavers that would probably work (on the carpet, in case that needed clarifying). We'd use them to take the excess fuzz off of our berets.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA


Lol!

Actually, that thing is pretty cool for sub box carpet clean up... I have actually used electric hair/beard trimmers to clean up unruly carpet on a sub box. It works surprisingly well.


----------



## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> Lol!
> 
> Actually, that thing is pretty cool for sub box carpet clean up... I have actually used electric hair/beard trimmers to clean up unruly carpet on a sub box. It works surprisingly well.


Yeah, but I don't want carpet fibers in the same trimmer I use for manscaping, or manscape trimmings in my sub box carpet, so I keep a separate tool for each, haha.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> Yeah, but I don't want carpet fibers in the same trimmer I use for manscaping, or manscape trimmings in my sub box carpet, so I keep a separate tool for each, haha.


Well of course... 

I'll add that using the beard trimmer for manscaping is gross enough, and adding the sub box to that is like a manscaping three-some!  :laugh:

Though, I don't know which would be worse: finding pubic hair on a sub box or my wife finding, what appears to be, a black guys pubes in my hair clippers! lmfao!!


----------



## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> Well of course...
> 
> I'll add that using the beard trimmer for manscaping is gross enough, and adding the sub box to that is like a manscaping three-some!  :laugh:
> 
> Though, I don't know which would be worse: finding pubic hair on a sub box or my wife finding, what appears to be, a black guys pubs in my hair clippers! lmfao!!


Hahaha, this is fun!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, here is the sample of the black shadow camo... It like it better than I thought. What do you guys think?

It isn't black and gray, it's all flat black. Each shape in the vinyl is a different texture and shade of black to create the effect.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

We have carpet! The side panel is just leaning there for the picture, I haven't mounted them yet.

Not an easy one to carpet... Tell me if you can find the seam(s)


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> We have carpet! The side panel is just leaning there for the picture, I haven't mounted them yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Not an easy one to carpet... Tell me if you can find the seam(s)


What carpet is this again? I need to order some 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> What carpet is this again? I need to order some
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Flexform, best carpet I have ever seen... 

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-C...71840177&sprefix=flexform+carp,aps,183&sr=8-1


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Btw, those pics were taken before I cleaned up the rough edges. Even though they won't be visible, I took a straight edge to them and cut them nice and straight.

My OCD doesn't allow me to leave anything sloppy, even if it will be hidden...  :blush:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Apologies for the terrible quality pics... Here a little more progress and test fit. Everything fits crazy snug and tight! I'm happy so far!

Btw, there will be a little trim piece so you won't see the individual leds...


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Anything fancy with the trim ring that the sub comes with?

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Anything fancy with the trim ring that the sub comes with?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


No, I love how the sub looks and will leave it alone... But there are a whole bunch of finishing and trim details coming, that will set this box on fire!!


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Looking really nice. Too much bling for my tastes but it definitely fits with your original goals. :sunny:


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## moregrip1 (Jul 17, 2018)

over from the RAM forum, pretty straightforward 

Nice work brother, looks stellar! I see the audio bug hit you hard!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

OUTRAGEOUS!!!!!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

It's looking really good, it's cool to see you following through with this project. 

You're going to need to give the plexi a good polish, I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> Looking really nice. Too much bling for my tastes but it definitely fits with your original goals. :sunny:


Thank you! And there's more bling coming... 




moregrip1 said:


> over from the RAM forum, pretty straightforward
> 
> Nice work brother, looks stellar! I see the audio bug hit you hard!


Hey man, it's been a while! The bug bit hard for sure. Lol. I still mod my vehicles, but the audio part is favorite right now. 

Thanks! 



seafish said:


> OUTRAGEOUS!!!!!


I hope so... Thanks!!



gijoe said:


> It's looking really good, it's cool to see you following through with this project.
> 
> You're going to need to give the plexi a good polish, I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.


Thanks!! I am too... It's taking longer than expected, but I am still really enjoying every step, so I am not gonna rush it. Plus, I keep coming up with more ideas for it, so who knows where it will go... 

What's really important to me, too, is that the workmanship be as flawless and solid as possible. If anything comes out slightly flawed or half-ass, it's getting tossed and I am starting over.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

A couple more pics. I haven't glued those side panels on yet, they are just leaning against the box...


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Let me get my sub back now

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Let me get my sub back now
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Sure thing. $1,999 shipped... I'll throw in the box. :laugh:


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

I had to read this whole thing again.....epic!!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Niebur3 said:


> I had to read this whole thing again.....epic!!!!


Thanks man!!




Still trying to decide on which vinyl to wrap the panels in... The black camo keeps looking like the best one.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Gluing the side panels on one at a time... Also, I decided on the black shadow vinyl wrap. It's so unique and it looks great with the other finished on the the box.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ALMOST DONE!!!

I made this little piece to hold the speaker wire in place:



















I do like the black camo, it's different and I think it goes good with the look of the box as a whole:





































You barely see the usb plug for the lights:










Polished the acrylic and mounted the sub. Also added a black strip of vinyl to hide the leds:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have to say, I like working with acrylic... I am gonna use more of it in future builds.

I used some car polish (Einszett to be exact) and it gave it a crystal clear shine.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

IT IS FINISHED!!! FINALLY!!!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

I hope you use it 

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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Crappy picture here, but you can see the how the lights illuminate the binding posts and the usb plugs right into the box...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> I hope you use it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk



Probably won't... Though I might fire it up in the Jeep and see how it sounds.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> Probably won't... Though I might fire it up in the Jeep and see how it sounds.


We might need to talk then if you dont sell it. I have a new project I could maybe use it for 

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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Nice!


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

It looks great! Yaay... party at David's place this weekend!! We need to turn it up to 11 !!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

diy.phil said:


> It looks great! Yaay... party at David's place this weekend!! We need to turn it up to 11 !!



Haha! Thanks!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

It turned out great, David! I really like the acrylic, and how you mimicked the port with the perforated aluminium on the side.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gijoe said:


> It turned out great, David! I really like the acrylic, and how you mimicked the port with the perforated aluminium on the side.


Thanks, man!!

Kinda weird, but one of my favorite parts is the hardware that holds the acrylic to the box... They were expensive and they look it. Plus, the holes drilled for them light up with the LEDs. It's the little things that make me happy!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I need to sell this to help fund my new Jeep build!! Anyone??


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