# Fiberglass sub enclosure in 2008 Altima



## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

This is my first time working with fiberglass so this thread is by no means a "how-to", more of "work in progress, feel free to add whatever knowledge you have that i might use" 

2008 Nissan Altima
Polk Audio SR124-DVC sub.
Sealed fiberglass/mdf enclosure.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Right now there's only enought (short) screws to hold everything up in place. No dowel rod either as i'll need to get all the internal space i can + my enclosure is pretty tight fit, especially after more fiberglass.... Then again if u believe i'll need a rod anyways please do let me know before it's too late




























Here's 1 sg ft of packing peanuts in there. SR124 needs 1.20 internal volume so my enclosure needs to be 1.34 before the sub goes in. Looks like i'm falling just a bit short of 1.34 before the sub mark. Box of screws is there to give u an idea of how much space is left.




























So here's 2 questions i got:

1. Polyfill - how much?? And is there a formula that would tell you how much bigger your enclosure will "be" with X amount of fiberglass per Y of current internal space?? Or something like that?
I can't find any specifics exept for "use 1 ounce of poly per cubic feet" which doesn't say exactly what % increase you will get (as far as sub ""thinks")

2. Wire terminals - what's the smallest ones you know of? Ones that require the smaller cut out there is. Went out to RadioShack, checked online - smallest i've found is almost 3'' be it square or round... Just a bit too big then i'd want. Anything smaller then that?? I really don't wanna just drill holes, run wires and silicone them.. Want to have a practical terminal..

3. how can i check for air leaks? Water isn't an option since there's mdf there as well. Some kind of smoke maybe?? So if it does leak i'll see it coming out?
In addition to a few screws I'll "connect" mdf with fg with lots more fg for a strong hold and to prevent air leaks but still would like to be sure theres no leaks before sub goes in.


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

Can't help you much on question 1, but as far as wire terminals go, you could always use binding post like follows, through the MDF portion of the box:

Dayton BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel | Parts-Express.com


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

odj23 said:


> Can't help you much on question 1, but as far as wire terminals go, you could always use binding post like follows, through the MDF portion of the box:
> 
> Dayton BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel | Parts-Express.com


These just might be my life-savers!! Thanx!!

I see nickel and gold ones. What's the differance??

edit: oh, and original post edited with 3rd question


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

Vital said:


> These just might be my life-savers!! Thanx!!
> 
> I see nickel and gold ones. What's the differance??
> 
> edit: oh, and original post edited with 3rd question


I think the only difference is plating... I'm pretty sure either will work just fine


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

^^ just noticed Drum'n'Bass link in your sig.
90% of what i listen to is hardcore/hardstyle and dubstep so u get extra point in my book for drum'n'bass lol :rockon:


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

Vital said:


> ^^ just noticed Drum'n'Bass link in your sig.
> 90% of what i listen to is hardcore/hardstyle and dubstep so u get extra point in my book for drum'n'bass lol :rockon:


big ups man :thumbsup:


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

Rule of thumb for polyfill is one *pound* per cubic foot.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Cut out "double baffle" which will make the front stronger, internal volume a bit bigger and will give some "design" on my enclosure as oppsed to just being "flat". Corners were sanded down for that "rounded" appearance.




























Some t-nuts:









Should look something like this:



















MDF pieces glued and screwed together AND glassed to make sure there's no airleaks










These things are great. They are supposably airtight without any additional sealant but i'd rather not risk it:


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Wraped up sides first just so i have more access to the inside of the enclosure to make sure EVERYTHING is sealed in there. I'm sure there's a lot more fg and met then was really needed but again i'd rather overdo this then fixing leaks when it's all done.














































Then wrapped up the whole thing and applied 1 coat of fg/mat. Fleece soaks up a lot of fg btw, there's propably enought fg there for 4 full coats of fg/mat. 
Next step is lots more fg from the inside of the eclosure and a few more all around it on the outside.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Then LOTS of glass all around the inside as well as outside. 
Technically i can already drop the sub in there. It's all done except for making it look good. Some bondo (or maybe something else??) to smooth it out and carpet and i should be all done.
Wire and poly is already bought and will be installed last, after carpet


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

I like it. Looks like you put plenty of strength into with that much glassing and it's gonna look great covered. Are you working on this outside, it's cold as **** and I'm in TN!?


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

Nice!


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Yap, outside AND in the dark lol.
By the time i get home from work it's already pirch black and freezing. Don't have a garage so it's outside only for me.
Use 3 times more hardener then "per instructions", appy a few layers on ONE side and wait till next day for it to dry LOL. Can't do other sides since it takes forever for glass to dry up in cold and it drips if i flip enclosure to the other side so basically this takes a LOT longer then it would if i was doing it a few months ago.
But it's either NOW before it starts snowing or wait a couple of months. I'd rather do it now.....


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

BTW - anyone what best to use to "smooth" it out at this point before installing carpet??
Something readily available (HomeDepo, Lowes, local stores...) easy to apply and sand and quick to dry?


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

From looking at the pictures it does not appear to need any bondo/smoothing before carpet. The only thing carpet *doesn't* hide are any bumps/protrusions over 1/8" or large creases or ridges in the glassing (carpet will also have ridge). -Although, you can perfect the shape using sandpaper and Bondo. Like if the fiberglass has a rolling/wavy surface you could smooth it out, but I really don't see much of that from the photos partly because you used so much MDF on the front.

I did sand any problem areas. I used a grinder (cautiously) to remove sharp points and to sand rough areas.

EDITED ^^


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

schmiddr2 said:


> From looking at the pictures it does not appear to need any sanding/smoothing before carpet. The only thing carpet *doesn't* hide are any sharp glass points or large creases or ridges in the glassing. Although, you can perfect the shape using sandpaper and Bondo. Like if the fiberglass has a rolling/wavy surface you could smooth it out, but I really don't see much of that from the photos partly because you used so much MDF on the front.
> 
> I used a grinder (cautiously) to remove sharp points and to sand rough areas.


Def agree with you but there's a few areas i need to "level" out.
Hard to see on pics but this one shows what i mean.
Take a look at blue cloth on top in the back (in the back of THE PICTURE, not enclosure) right infront of that green latter. It sagged down some under the weight of glass before i it got a chance to harden. I'd like to level it out so you can't see anything "saggin down". Kinda hard to explain, i hope u see what i mean based on this pic.


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

I see. Well most people use Bondo. Might do some reading here: Subwoofer Boxes - Fiberglass Forums


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## Vetos (Oct 8, 2010)

that's some thick box right there. could probably withstand a tank rolling over it  how many layers did you put? i'm in the process of building my first enclosure myself..


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Great progress given the conditions which your working in. I'll give you a little tip that may help keep your cure times down. Are you keeping your resin inside? I mean inside your living area or a heated area of your house or apt? If not, try this take the amount your going to be using for that lay up, put it in a butter tub or
something you can seal. An empty paint can or even a glass jar with holes in its top. You get the idea... Now take a pot of bowling hot water and set the jar, can, or resin into that and while your doing prep work let it warm up. I strongly recommend that you use a small test batch so that you get the hang of the pot life before it kicks off. I've had to build boats and or do work on them in COLD times of year because that is when most folks don't use them and had to come up with a way to work on them that time of year. I was also having to work outside.

Another tip. Had you left your blue tape in even up to this point you can/could use Bondo or some other types of fillers. With the parts of your system in the car you fill the gaps. Leave them in the car until they dry a day or so. BE VERY CAREFUL when you pull out the parts so that you don't crack the Bondo. Now you can sand down the surfaces you will see, shape all the edges to your liking and BOOM, done!
Your ready for carpet.... Easy as it gets...

Oh lastly(sorry) you can use thin trash bags or plastic on your last layers of your glass lay ups. What you do is mix up your resin proper, not hot but enough to cure in the regular amount of time. Lay your glass the apply your plastic, use a foam or regular nap paint roller to lay the plastic flat onto your fiberglass. When it dries it will be as smooth as a babies butt. THAT IS IF your putting it on an already smooth surface. By that I mean it should be smooth within reason.

I didn't mean for this to be all drawn out but thought these tips would really help put your system to the next level. Based on the time and effort you've already spent I can tell you do care what it looks like in the end.

Keep up the good work. 
Scott


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> ....snip....
> 
> Another tip. Had you left your blue tape in even up to this point you can/could use Bondo or some other types of fillers. With the parts of your system in the car you fill the gaps. Leave them in the car until they dry a day or so. BE VERY CAREFUL when you pull out the parts so that you don't crack the Bondo. Now you can sand down the surfaces you will see, shape all the edges to your liking and BOOM, done!
> Your ready for carpet.... Easy as it gets...
> ...


Those are some great tips. That should be a sticky right by itself.

Trash bags is genius!


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

^^ +1

And yes, my can of resign was outside for the most part.
Gonna do some glassing tonight after work so i've already moved that can inside the house so it's all nice and warm when i start using it tonight. Now that i think of it logically it would increase curing time...

THANX!!


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Vetos said:


> that's some thick box right there. could probably withstand a tank rolling over it  how many layers did you put? i'm in the process of building my first enclosure myself..


I'm sure there's lots more layers then ever needed lol. Can't tell you exactly how many but roughtly MORE then 10 all around.
I never did this before prior to this so figured i'm better off overdoing it then falling a bit too short.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Which Bondo should I be using to smooth and level things out? There's Bondoglass and Bondo body filler. Since all I need is to simply level things out im sure I can use either or but figured ill ask first.
Also, does it stink as much as resign? Can I mix & apply it inside my house or should I take it outside as well?


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

You will find LOTS of answers to this one but being that you are going
to carpet and not paint or vinyl I would say: Evercoat 'kittyhair' or any
brand that is 'kittyhair'. What we are talking here is a product that spreads
like bondo, so it is thick but has fiberglass hairs in it. So, if your filling gaps
between panels it will do that better with less chance of cracking. I use it
more than standard bondo unless I am painting. But for your purpose Kitty
hair would work best IMHO.

just be sure to use a mask when sanding IT IS NASTY STUFF!

oh another useful FYI. Putting baby powder on your skin prior to 
sanding will block your skin pores to help with the itch. IF you 
didn't already know this. Apply to all exposed skin don't be shy
and when you shower use COLD water. Then change to hot water
when you soap up. I'm not sure if you know any of these tricks
being a new guy to glassing.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Where do I get kittyhair type? Im really limited to Home Depot, Lowes, Autozone type places and im sure most if not all people working there will not have any idea wtf im talking about....

Thank you for your help btw - really appreciate your feedback.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Vital said:


> Thank you for your help btw - really appreciate your feedback.


No worries.... 

Most all auto parts stores will sell some brand of resin with kittyhair 
in it. Just call around and ask for Evercoat KittyHair until you find
someone or heck just get it online. You can also look at those auto
parts stores website to see if they even offer it. This is what your
looking for. Being a new guy to it I would buy one more tube of
hardener.
Evercoat


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Maybe this will make it even easier for you to find. Just give
Auto Zone this part nubmer, it should work as good as the
brand I sent you. Sure you may not need this much so ask
for less if need be, good luck.

3M/1 gal. Bondo-Hair filler with long strand reinforced fiberglass (764) | Body Filler | AutoZone.com


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Got Bondo Glass since it was on the shelve and actually has short "hairs" of fiber in it, did the job just fine (i hope lol)

Just finished carpeting, here's a few shots. It's dark out so you can't really see much but u'll get an idea 























































As you can see sub on top of seal ring comes out to be about an 1 1/4'' tall and that's not even hooked up. It's a high excursion sub so i can't even imagine what kind of grill i'd need for it. And i def do....... need all grill ideas i can get at this point, i honestly wasn't expecting that much needed clearance......


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Looks great! Good job.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

MAN, that turned out really good. Sounds like you found the
correct kind of filler with the glass already in it. That is a good
thing and should last FAR longer than just using a Bondo type
filler with no additives. GOOD JOB!

Looking at the pics, and forgive me if I am being too or overly
critical. OR, if you don't care about it then forget I even said
this. BUT, you see the little piece behind the box that is flipped
down by the trunk lid hinge? I noticed on the back of your box
you had some excess in your carpet. You could gently pull that
excess off the box where your relief cut is and tuck it under your
gasket for the lid. This would give a very nice fit and finish transition
where the box meets that side wall. If you were able to do this 
around the whole box that would even be better. Like I said this
may be a bit nit picky but I think it would finish that area off a bit
more and blend the box to the trunk even better and tighten up
that part of the install even more. Again, if your not worried with
this then FORGET I even said something. ALL THE SAME, THIS
REALLY DID TURN OUT NICE. Something you should be proud
of!:beerchug:


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Vital said:


> As you can see sub on top of seal ring comes out to be about an 1 1/4'' tall and that's not even hooked up. It's a high excursion sub so i can't even imagine what kind of grill i'd need for it. And i def do....... need all grill ideas i can get at this point, i honestly wasn't expecting that much needed clearance......



As for grills, some of us threw out some ideas for a guy once who was
looking for suggestions for a sub like this. We came up with towel rods
for your bathroom, some of those have a nice bend to them and look.
Also, you can find stainless rod grills that are nothing more than solid
rod that just go into holes you would drill into the front of the box. I'll
see if I can find them. I've also looked around for materials which aren't
used often and are different than the norm. Is that what your looking
for?


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> MAN, that turned out really good. Sounds like you found the
> correct kind of filler with the glass already in it. That is a good
> thing and should last FAR longer than just using a Bondo type
> filler with no additives. GOOD JOB!
> ...


I've re-read your post a few times and honestly i have no idea what u're saying LOL. Can you edit one of my pics to point out exactly what u mean??
As i said it's already dark out so i can't see exactly how this new carpet matches and blends in with my oem carpet but i'll be sure to do that tomorrow with enought daylight.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> As for grills, some of us threw out some ideas for a guy once who was
> looking for suggestions for a sub like this. We came up with towel rods
> for your bathroom, some of those have a nice bend to them and look.
> Also, you can find stainless rod grills that are nothing more than solid
> ...


Since i'm sure there isn't many grills for this (Polk doesn't even make SR grills) and even of there are being how i am picky i have a feeling i woun't like them LOL something self/custom made sounds like the only way to go. I was actually thinking of metal rods from HomeDepot or something like that so what you said is basically in the right direction.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

That turned out really nice.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Vital said:


> I've re-read your post a few times and honestly I have no idea what u're saying LOL. Can you edit one of my pics to point out exactly what u mean??
> As i said it's already dark out so i can't see exactly how this new carpet matches and blends in with my oem carpet but i'll be sure to do that tomorrow with enought daylight.



Sorry dude............

That you didn't understand what I am talking about doesn't surprise me at all.... I'M HIGH on my meds and OFTEN talk gibberish... You gotta decode **** from me dude. I thought I've posted enough on your thread for you to know this by now.

I am not very good at this photo edit stuff (I should know being a amiture photographer) and had to look up a program to point these out. THEN figure out how to use it. So, if it looks like a preteen did it, don't hold it against me.... 

Anyway, take the tucked carpet away from the back of your box. GENTLY so you don't fray it. Pull up the gasket around your trunk. Take the carpet from the box and insert it into the gap in the gasket. Put the gasket back on the car. Now the sub carpet and gasket should be attached. Zero gaps, no trunk
trim will be seen or hang down.









I'll tell ya. All the tips, tricks and criticism I've given you guy is doing nothing but digging a hole with wish I should just burry my 911 in..... I've got lots to live up to now.


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## arw01 (Nov 24, 2010)

You did go a great job! How does it sound?

Do fiberglass boxes resonate more than a mdf one?

What was it you were putting all the blue tape on, and why do you put blue tape on?


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## TREOUSAMPS_GP (Dec 24, 2009)

looks like he taped off the area then aluminum foiled over that and taped the aluminum foil so it wouldnt move...it makes it possible to get the box out and not bond it to the body...Fiberglass subwoofer box - a tutorial explains it better


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## arw01 (Nov 24, 2010)

That what I was figuring, but why not just use the drop clothe plastic to put between the car and the fiberglass?


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## jivitup (Nov 2, 2009)

Wow the enclosure looks great. Good job


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> Sorry dude............
> 
> That you didn't understand what I am talking about doesn't surprise me at all.... I'M HIGH on my meds and OFTEN talk gibberish... You gotta decode **** from me dude. I thought I've posted enough on your thread for you to know this by now.
> 
> ...


Yeah man, that's overkill for me LOL. I'm totally fine with the way it sits now.
But def thank you for constructive critisizm, it's actually a really good idea to keep in mind when building my NEXT enclosure lol.


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

arw01 said:


> That what I was figuring, but why not just use the drop clothe plastic to put between the car and the fiberglass?


Drop cloth not gonna work since there's a lot of curves and angles there which is the whole point of going with tape - all curves and angles will be "captured".
If you COULD somehow secure dropcloth to capture curves AND so it sticks to vertical surfaces then by all means go ahead but that's gonna be a ***** lol. Should work fine on flat horizontal surface thou.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Sorry dude................

I gotta tape up my fingers when I'm on my meds. PLEASE
feel free to go rip my build log to bits


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Sub only has 6-7 hours of play time so it's too early give it a full review but:

1. this sub in sealed enclosure has RIDICULOUS (in a good way) punch/kick. Maybe i won't need rear fill afterall, sounds like when it's fully broken in it'll give me all the punch i ever wanted. It already does lol, i can only imagine what it'll sound like in 2 weeks.
2. Coming from 12'' db sub in ported i'll need some time to get used to not hearing those loooow frequencies.

I mostly listen to either hardcore techno which is all about kick/punch or dubstep/drum'n'bass which is all about bass. Well, hardcore now sounds just like it should - hard as fukk fast punchy kicks but dubstep seems to be missing those looow, extended basswaves. I hope by the time SR is fully broken in i'll get those lows back but i do realize that that's a trade off from going from ported to sealed.
Overall i'm VERY pleased with it. A lot of reviews on it mentioned how "musical" it is which i never really understood but i think i now know what they were talking about, very "musical" it is


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

great first time build, id of done a few things different with the expierence making these things you learn what you need to do to improve on your next glass job!

great first go. i was kind of nervous when you put the front baffle on there, but it ended up OK. im sure there was a TON of sanding and leveling things out- but you did a great job!


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## southpawskater (Feb 17, 2010)

Great first run at fiberglass, my first 2 trys ended up in the trash. Keep it up!


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## NHXRUNNER (Dec 22, 2010)

All you guys with custom fiberglass enclosures have got me jealous. Looks like it's time to step up my game.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Here is one idea for your grill. I have seen many like this and several
used in builds on this board this week. I like these because they dont
have a ring holding them together. You can use a couple of kits to get
nearly any look you want. I'm not saying buy these off fleabay, I'm sure
you can find them for much less over the net.

I know the grill sizes below may not be for your sub. Just examples....
you can do a search for 'SUBWOOFER' grills on ebay and come up with
many pages of options.

JL AUDIO® SGR-12W7 12" SUB SUBWOOFER BAR GRILL SGR12W7 - eBay (item 360323328300 end time Dec-27-10 10:51:09 PST)

other type with the bar holding them together.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-15-Bar-Gril...252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19bf9d82a4

Something like these would be DAMN strong. I didn't see any branding
so these should work with your sub.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-08GR15-1...061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eaf624aad

While your at it change out all your phillips scews for something that would
make your gear a bit harder for a thief to get. Lowes or HomeDeposit
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Speaker-Insta...642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa490eeca


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Actually got the grill in your second ebay link for $9.75 from Parts Express + free shipping. Gonna install it either today or tomorrow.

As for screws - i originally was looking for "allenhead" type screws in both - HD and Lowes but none of them had them long enought to fit thru 2 sheets of 3/4'' mdf + sub itself. And ofcourse thread pattern needed to match my t-nuts which complicated things a bit more. If i do find them i'll be more then happy to replace my current bolts.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Vital said:


> Actually got the grill in your second ebay link for $9.75 from Parts Express + free shipping. Gonna install it either today or tomorrow.
> 
> As for screws - i originally was looking for "allenhead" type screws in both - HD and Lowes but none of them had them long enought to fit thru 2 sheets of 3/4'' mdf + sub itself. And ofcourse thread pattern needed to match my t-nuts which complicated things a bit more. If i do find them i'll be more then happy to replace my current bolts.


Good deal.... on the grill. I had a feeling you would find those
like I posted.

Here is something for you to search through for your screws. I
don't know where in NY you are but you can use the store locator
at this link. If these guys don't have it you don't need it
Locations | Fastenal

Just trying to help ya out....


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## Ianarian (Dec 20, 2010)

I like it man. Try not to burn the glass with too much cat. bud! You're looking a little brown there. I just use to put a space heater in the car and left it a lil while.... Either way, looks like you are successful, well done.


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## mine4118 (Dec 31, 2010)

nice build..what are you doing with the amp rack???? any pic of the trunk completed?


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

Vital said:


> Sub only has 6-7 hours of play time so it's too early give it a full review but:
> 
> 1. this sub in sealed enclosure has RIDICULOUS (in a good way) punch/kick. Maybe i won't need rear fill afterall, sounds like when it's fully broken in it'll give me all the punch i ever wanted. It already does lol, i can only imagine what it'll sound like in 2 weeks.
> 2. Coming from 12'' db sub in ported i'll need some time to get used to not hearing those loooow frequencies.
> ...


oh yeah, as far as a reveiew, i can tell you right now, this sub is tits, i had one, and they dont need much of a break in like other subs before they start sounding good, took my JBL w12gti mkii WEEKS to break in. ****ing weeks, but this thing was like a week and it was humming like a champ. it hits so clean. i let mine go for like 120$ still regret that should of held onto it  but meh money was tight and it was a very large paper weight lol very good looking enclousure though, i've been contimplating doing this with my car because i'm sick of the massive box in my trunk. this was a very usefull thread in that thought process.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

Vital said:


> Use 3 times more hardener then "per instructions", appy a few layers on ONE side and wait till next day for it to dry LOL.



looks nice, but this is a big no-no. your resin/mekp ratio is way off using triple the amount of mekp and that will make your glass very, very brittle once dried as well as greatly reducing the strength. hopefully nothing happens to your enclosure in the future.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

you know what i was just thinking out how to do mine and i realised i have a very large advantage, my trunk machanics are external  it's on a corner bolt for the hindge and hydrolic cylenders, so nothing comes into my trunk when i close it! 









i'm so excited to try starting this, but I'm still concearned about the depth needed, i'm planning on building an amp rack and freeing up that are of my trunk will be nice. i have a pretty hefty box now, i'm sitll on the fence about changing up because the box is tuned so nicley and idk how my sub sounds sealed, i know it's incredible ported though. i'm not a boom boom kinda guy, this sub sounds so crisp ported though like no other sub i've ever heard.









lol still wood on it from when i installed it XD never cleaned it off, i'm installing a grill soon, i haven't been driving it around to much so i never got around to it, but as you can see lots of **** laying around my trunk, and yes, that is an alternator sitting in the back of my trunk XD


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## E300 (Apr 23, 2009)

Nice sub box build!


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Thanx for the compliments and feedback/tips guys 

No, didn't start on amprack yet but will as soon as it gets at least a little warmer. It's been snowing on and off since X-mas, another snowstorm is about to hit tonight... so yeah, since all my work is done outside i'm very weather dependent and it doesn't good look in the forecast lol.

eviling - yes, that is a big advantage BUUUUT i can see even bigger disadvantage - your trunk's corner is not deep at all, it's shallow enough to raise the concern of how big/small of a box you can actually fit in there. My corner was a LOT deeper which made up for the most of my enclosure's internal space. I'd highly recommend you check that first.

Sub now has PartExpress' "bar style" grill on it since it's a high excursion sub but since its black it's not really even noticeable (which is actually a good thing in my book) Other then that it's the same exact way/look at last pics posted.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

good luck with that snow storm, i'm here in Detroit Michigan and we got between 4-6 inches quick and its still coming down pretty good. love the corner box btw. i might end up doing that this summer in my SUV so i get most of my trunk back


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

Vital, you are getting the storm that just left here today. We got about 5" of snow (which is a lot for here) topped by about 1/4" of ice. It was pretty for 20 minutes or so but is a real mess now.


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