# Audio Integrations amp rack install



## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

The basic idea:










*Audio Integrations Hideaway amp rack installation*

This unit came packed well and looked very nice out of box. The paint is powdercoated and it looked very thick and sturdy. I saw attention to detail with all the bolt bags and instruction sheets carefully attached to the package. It even came with one extra "nut-sert" in case I ruin one I guess. This item was $170 shipped and I had no hesitation. I have built my own amp racks out of MDF for 10 years, and I wanted something very easy and clean this time.

The kit comes with a acrylic template you see in this pic. You just push two of the included bolts into the stock holes to hold it up. The duct tape helps hold it flush while you mark your whole. You can see the tiny hole on the left side of the template. That is the new hole you make.










You then take your "step drill bit" (Sears, $43 including tax ) and you drill out the right most hole in template, and the left most hole. You don't touch the middle template hole. This drill bit was the best tool I've ever experienced. It cut like butter, and has markings in each step so you know the hole size. You can also measure as you go. DO NOT make the hole too big or you are screwed. The drill bit also has a cleanup design, so the hole is super smooth when you're done.










For the new tiny hole on left, you start with small bits and work your way up until The step bit will fit. Once you have drilled out both holes carefully, you then have the two 1/2" holes seen here:










You then place a rubber nutsert into each 1/2" hole. There is a little rubber flange on it so it only goes in one way. It should be a perfect fit if you drilled the right size hole. Then you set up your bolt into the amp rack tab before screwing it in. Bolt, lock washer, metal washer, rubber washer, <amp rack tab>, another rubber washer. Then hold up the rack and very lightly screw the bolt into that rubber insert. Do same for both sides. DO NOT overtighten these rubber inserts. they are mushroom style, and if the nut slips you might be in trouble. I just did them finger tight as this is just a mock up.










You then lift the rack up and mark your next two holes, which hole the other side. It is all the same style with the 1/2" holes needed. Do one hole first, get the rubber in the hole before you mark the 2nd hole. Then, you can attach the nuts completely to the rack to test fit your holes.



















I then held up my rack to show that all the holes lined up perfectly. 










I took about 30-40 minutes to install this. I took my time and was very careful. If you rush you might drill a bad hole and then you're in trouble. I love the install and the rack, but the hard part will be attaching my amps to the rack and checking all my clearance before I bolt them down. I wanted to put my two distribution blocks on this rack also, but I don't know if I'll have room. That way, I will only need one 4 gauge input for the amp rack instead of two. I won't have my other amp until Saturday.


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## turbotuli (Jan 30, 2008)

Hmm, looks pretty cool. Is this specific to the WRX? Looks like it could probably be used in other cars too. Where are they available? What are the dimensions of the rack? Looks like they're only big enough to hold one normal size amp or 2 PDXs...


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Its WRX specific, but sure, you could modify it easily. I got it here because I didnt feel like building my own amp rack.

http://www.audiointegrations.net/Home.html


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

turbotuli said:


> Hmm, looks pretty cool. Is this specific to the WRX? Looks like it could probably be used in other cars too. Where are they available? What are the dimensions of the rack? Looks like they're only big enough to hold one normal size amp or 2 PDXs...


ya its small for sure. either a couple PDX or a Boston GT amp fits too.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Amp Rack Specifications: 

Mounting Area 9.5 inches deep by 22 inches wide (2.5 - 3 inches of height available when mounted)
Weight: 3 lbs.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Ordered 17' Stinger HPM3 RCAs last night from "bagboy" on ebay, someone gave me a tip on some forums. Also ordered the big box of Dynamat Xtreme. I know there are cheaper solutions but I've always liked it. Also ordered 80A AGU fuses because they didnt come with my AGU fuse holder.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Forgot to add my updates to this forum..

Today, I did more preparation work which will save time later. I attached my 4 gauge distribution blocks and ran my remote amp turn on lead from my deck back to my trunk.

I spent an hour thinking out locations of my distribution blocks. I had the rear seat out and one of the back panels off. I figured the only way they will be useful is if they are on the rack itself. Otherwise I'll have 4 huge 4 gauge wires going to the amp rack. With the blocks on the rack itself, I can assemble before putting it in the car, and only jhave one hookup into each block. 

I eventually decided to put them under the amp rack. There is not many places and they are huge. So I staged them here:










Then I got out my 3M double sided tape to attach them. I could not use screws, they would hit the amp. 










You think tape won't be strong enough? I lifted the entire rack by it right after I applied it. And those PDX amps are heavy, way heavier than they look.










I then ran my remote turn on all the way down drivers side, that is where my 4 gauge power wire will go also. I tie wrapped every 6 inches for cleanliness. No pics of that, but I can make a video if someone really wants.

Now I wait for my 4 gauge wiring which is supposed to arrive today. If it does, I run my power wire today also. I don't think my other PDX amp will arrive today, it seems to have got delayed.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

My wire sets arrived. All Stinger merchandise. 4 gauge power and ground, 12 gauge for the sub speaker wire, and 16 gauge for the door speaker wire.










I made this short power cable for the battery end first:










Then I ran all the rest. My next post will be a video showing my wire runs.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Part 2 of the running power wire video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8HEcTzUUZ8


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

Sorry, I can't help giggling about "huge" and "4 gauge" in the same sentance. 

Looks like a VERY nice little amp rack... might have to fab something similar up for my car.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Now I give you lots of advice from my mistakes on this amp rack.

First set of pics show the amp installed, and all wiring installed:




























I swung the rack up to bolt in the rear bolts. I then saw the amp hitting the edge as seen in the pics:



















I then drilled a second set of holes backward maybe 1/2" to try again:










I had cleaned up my wiring more each time I took it out:










Unfortunately... the amp STILL hit in the same place when I used the holes that were further back. (Towards front of car). I then had to drill a THIRD set of holes:










Those holes finally worked, and the amp now has plenty of clearance. The instructions did say mount it as far back as possible, but I thought I had test fit it and didnt see any issues eariler.

Got everything complete, and this is the final rack setup. The wires and crap on the bottom isn't nice to look at, but at least everything is out of the way and doesnt take up any trunk space.


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## aeon (Oct 11, 2007)

looks nice and clean.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

I dont like the wires showing under the rack, but i guess it can't be helped. If I had waited for the 5 channel PDX, then none of those wires would be seen.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Finished my passenegr door. Used custom 3/4" adapters I made. 

BUT... one of my new Stinger RCA from ebay is bad! One channel is dead. Took me forever to figure it out. I think I got them from bagboy on ebay (Darvex), and I threw away the wrappers days ago. Wasted $45 on that RCA and then its broke out of box. I'm gonna buy a $20 RCA now, I don't care anymore.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1EinCUX5ik

I swapped my RCA left/right to use my working side RCA on the new door installation. It sounds amazing, even with only one amplified speaker. (And 3 speakers off deck power). It is crystal clear crossed over at 80Hz HP with a 18dB slope. I tried 60Hz/24dB and didn't like it as much. I heard no buzz or vibration even with my lightly dampened doors. I can't wait to hear double that power once my other door is done. My Alpine amp gain is 1/2 way currently. I might lower it to 2/3 once I get started tuning. The amp speaker is so loud I can barely hear any of the other 3 which has 22Wrms each. 

Which brings me to my subwoofer.. After hearing one half of my front stage, I am already deciding against dual 10's. Mostly because I didn't want to use up that much space. I think a 10" Type-R with 600Wrms would fill the voids nicely. If I put a dual 10" box in there 1/2 my trunk is gone. I am eyeballing the Audio Integrations custom box to match my amp rack, but it's a bit pricey. I can't make my final decision until both doors are up and running and I do some tuning.


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

what's up jobber. You might want to contact ANT and have this thread moved into the build forum as it's more appropriate. 

As for what this amp will fit...Impreza based vehicles only as they specifically designed it for that. They are a great company that have made some enclosures for other vehicles now as well such as the EVO, a couple of Civic models and I believe they have or are coming out with a Mini model as well. 

I should see if I can get Ryan and Todd from AI to post up their installs here. They do some insane custom work.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

HEY ANT! 

Can I get this moved to the installs section?

thanks


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

I was going to get an Alpine Type-R single 10 just so I could have an all-Alpine system. But my other choice is a JL 10W6 instead. I'm sure the JL would have better SQ?


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

While waiting for my sub amp I used the rest of my dynamat. FYI, the bulk Dynamat Extreme pack (36 sq ft) will cover 2 front doors and almost all the trunk. At least it did for me..


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

You REALLY need to put some mat in the spare tire well. That thing resonates like a biatch in our cars.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Daishi said:


> You REALLY need to put some mat in the spare tire well. That thing resonates like a biatch in our cars.


thanks for the heads up. I might buy 2 or 3 more sheets just to finish up.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

For $170, you could have easily bent some steel or aluminum sheets to make a similar amp rack (reinforced with bars) and use the extra money for something else. I know its a mute point now, but just something in the future or other members that might be reading. Good luck on the rest of your install


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

azngotskills said:


> For $170, you could have easily bent some steel or aluminum sheets to make a similar amp rack (reinforced with bars) and use the extra money for something else. I know its a mute point now, but just something in the future or other members that might be reading. Good luck on the rest of your install


I wouldnt want to bother making one myself. Thats why the money was worth it to me.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

placenta said:


> I wouldnt want to bother making one myself. Thats why the money was worth it to me.


Understandable


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

Well, a couple of points against that. First, it's car specific so all the guesswork is taken out plus it fits perfectly. Second, the powder coating alone is expensive unless you can find a place that will be good enough to throw it in with another batch of stuff to cut the costs done (my amp rack ran me $250 to have powder coated). Third everything is spot welded instead of screwed together plus with the bends in there is is insanely strong. I tested out the prototype rack that used bars underneath for strength for them and we ran through a bunch of different ideas and that's what they came up with as the final version, plus the easiest way to install the thing as originally it involved plumb bobs, level ground and lots of cursing LOL.

I'm all for the DIY angle of stuff (hence why I'm here), but for the price of the rack (which, he paid will below the sale price for it) vs. the time and energy (and cost of materials and coating) and trying to get everything to work as well it's just not worth it. To make it yourself you'd have to access to some decent equipment or access to a machine shop that won't charge you the $80 an hour to put it together. Plus the guys at AI will do anything and everything to make sure it works out their customers. They are the only shop I'd let touch my car personally...which sucks since they are only 2821.3 miles from me LOL.

It's the same idea on their fiberglassed enclosures. Sure, you can make one for less than $350 bucks but when you take into account all the materials, safety gear and time you don't save yourself all that much cash. I made my own enclosure myself and it ran me around $250 since it was my first fiberglassing project and needed all the safety gear and supplies in general to do it, plus it took me a week to make one.

I'm obviously biased for them though, as they are the first company to really care about the Subaru (except for Rick at Raam) market and really contribute on our car specific forums. Plus, I know what they pay for all their items to be made and their profit margin pretty much sucks


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## LastResort (Oct 24, 2007)

how big of a step drill do you need, I think harbor freight had a small set on for a couple of bucks today.....

And: Would you consider using a spray in liner of the mat for the spare wheel area, to keep the OEM look, or would you just say mat it?


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

1/2" bit is needed...you don't want to go larger than that and you really don't want to use a drill bit as it has a tendency to over-enlarge the hole.

I'd mat it personally. if you put ensolite back over it you'll never even see it, which is what I did.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

Daishi - Well i agree with you to a certain extent, comparing a fiberglass enclosure to an amp rack arent the same thing IMO. You can easily bend some metal nicely with a vise and a rubber hammer and look just as good since its not really a visual piece to begin with (how stong does an amp rack need to be when reinforced steel is used?). With an amp rack that Audio Integration designed, really not much customization compared to a sub enclosure. I know it depends on the buyer whether the price it worth it or not. In this case of the amp rack, i would say not but a sub enclosure would be a different case. Obviously there was some guess work still needed since the install took a few adjustments.

Sorry to the OP for the off-topic rant, just wanted to respond. Not to knock on your install or choices, just providing my opinion


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

I also have their custom fiberglass sub box on order.


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

azngotskills said:


> Daishi - Well i agree with you to a certain extent, comparing a fiberglass enclosure to an amp rack arent the same thing IMO. You can easily bend some metal nicely with a vise and a rubber hammer and look just as good since its not really a visual piece to begin with (how stong does an amp rack need to be when reinforced steel is used?). With an amp rack that Audio Integration designed, really not much customization compared to a sub enclosure. I know it depends on the buyer whether the price it worth it or not. In this case of the amp rack, i would say not but a sub enclosure would be a different case. Obviously there was some guess work still needed since the install took a few adjustments.
> 
> Sorry to the OP for the off-topic rant, just wanted to respond. Not to knock on your install or choices, just providing my opinion


I agree with you to an extent, I really do. I actually priced out what it would cost me to make one myself...it came out to around $100 if I attached everything with bolts...if I welded it more than that ($40 for the steel, $15 for the hardware, $45 or more for powder coating). If you already have the equipment then yes, it's cheaper...especially if you go with a simple spray can coating or the like no question about it. Also, if you screw up...well you're screwed LOL. To each there own though...although I rather build everything myself when it came time to do that rack I said screw it and snagged one from them as I just didn't feel like spending days getting it right.

Sorry for throwing this off topic here, just felt a need to justify what goes into that rack as I have a very good relationship with those guys and know for a fact that what they sell it for isn't much more is well under what standard retail profit is.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

Im glad we got our points across  ....*now back to placenta's install *


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

agreed


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

very nice work


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

pics of my two dynamatted doors while I had my panels off today:


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## energizedsbs (Dec 11, 2007)

on post 11 pic #2 i would be worried about those wires coming out like that unprotected.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

energizedsbs said:


> on post 11 pic #2 i would be worried about those wires coming out like that unprotected.



me too.. but i do have a fuse 12" from battery.. I dont like that angled design of the PDX wire inputs. I would have preferred standard straight out. Its hard to get the 4 gauge wire in when its angled down like that.


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## energizedsbs (Dec 11, 2007)

placenta said:


> me too.. but i do have a fuse 12" from battery.. I dont like that angled design of the PDX wire inputs. I would have preferred standard straight out. Its hard to get the 4 gauge wire in when its angled down like that.



im talking more about all the wires coming out of the oval hole from the top of your trunk..


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Hay, I know you from somewhere, you look awfully familiar.... lol... 

FYI, we have an "install" section, might wanna contact DIYMA and have it moved...


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

After hearing that PDX amp for a few days.. I might just get rid of it. I got spoiled by TRU and nothing will ever satisfy me anymore.. If only I had never owned a TRU...


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

placenta said:


> After hearing that PDX amp for a few days.. I might just get rid of it. I got spoiled by TRU and nothing will ever satisfy me anymore.. If only I had never owned a TRU...


I have been hearing alot about that recently


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

I have cancelled all my system plans and pulled out my amp and amp rack. I now have my type-R coax, PDX amp, and rack for sale in classifieds. In a nutshell, it just wasn't worth it to me. I'm trying to save for a house.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

placenta said:


> I have cancelled all my system plans and pulled out my amp and amp rack. I now have my type-R coax, PDX amp, and rack for sale in classifieds. In a nutshell, it just wasn't worth it to me. I'm trying to save for a house.


ouch  sorry to hear that man and good luck with your sale....did the system suck as well or did you realize car audio just wasnt for you right now?


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

azngotskills said:


> ouch  sorry to hear that man and good luck with your sale....did the system suck as well or did you realize car audio just wasnt for you right now?


well.. lets just say I wasnt impressed with Alpine's PDX power and sound characteristics. If I ever do another system in the future, it has to be a TRU with Focals. Period. But I'm taking a break for now.


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## azngotskills (Feb 24, 2006)

placenta said:


> well.. lets just say I wasnt impressed with Alpine's PDX power and sound characteristics. If I ever do another system in the future, it has to be a TRU with Focals. Period. But I'm taking a break for now.


LOL i understand and i wish you the best of luck. Personally i wouldnt have went with Alpine coaxials but im sure you got the next system planned out


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

azngotskills said:


> LOL i understand and i wish you the best of luck. Personally i wouldnt have went with Alpine coaxials but im sure you got the next system planned out


ya i wouldnt do coaxials on an amp next time.


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

Wow, sounds like you're now agreeing with us over at NASIOC when you said you didn't care about SQ and just wanted a little sound LOL. Well, hopefully everything works out for you....you may want to hit up DWRXWagon on NASIOC...he's looking at buying PDX amps for his install.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Daishi said:


> Wow, sounds like you're now agreeing with us over at NASIOC when you said you didn't care about SQ and just wanted a little sound LOL. Well, hopefully everything works out for you....you may want to hit up DWRXWagon on NASIOC...he's looking at buying PDX amps for his install.


I learned I would rather have no sound than crappy sound. By "none" I mean deck power with some nice simple coaxials. No wire mess to worry about, no extra weight. I like listening to the sound of my turbo anyway, but the music can get loud enough on the freeway if I want it to. I am glad I did all the dynamatting anyway, as you know how loud a car the WRX is in general. Its a lot nicer now, and the drivetrain isnt deafening anymore.


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