# Hiss/static/white noise problem; Setting gains with FIX 86 DSP; tweeter buzz; etc...



## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Hi everyone, first thread here. I'm having a car audio problem with my new system, and I could use some help from much more experienced people. I'd really appreciate some help before I just give up and set my car on fire.. :worried: I'll summarize or skip some non-important details in my troubleshooting/etc, but this will still be a really long one, so strap in 

*Vehicle:* 2017 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan - came with "Premium" sound system that I am replacing, all except for the stock/OEM stereo.

*Tools:* Installation tools; laptop and JL Audio Tune software; Multi-meter; ?? nothing like an Oscope/etc.

*Gear:* (Note, Some gear is being re-used from my previous sound system I installed in my old truck).

JL Audio FIX 86 DSP... for OEM systems (Link)
JL Audio DRC-100... (optional, can remove) (Link)
Kenwood Excelon XR-5S 5 Channel Amp... (reused from truck) (Link)
JL Audio C2-650 Component Set (Link)
JL Audio C2-650x Coaxial Set (Link)
JL Audio 10w1v2 Subwoofer... (reused from truck) not sure if it's the v2-4 (Link) or the v2-8 (Link) ... think it's the 4..
My wire combo set (power, ground, remote) and RCAs are MESA brand (got at local audio shop) (Link to MESA site)
3 12' twisted pair RCA cables ... 6' would have worked lol. They were $30 each, 3 of them.
Added wiring is all 16 gauge; also MESA brand I got from the local audio shop.

*Gear Layout:* https://imgur.com/a/sc14C ... Stock stereo --> stock amp --> DSP --> Kenwood amp --> external crossovers/speakers/sub
RCAs down right side. Power wire down middle/console. They only overlap where they come together under passenger seat and connect into the Kenwood amp.
Active Noise Canceling harness is disconnected... Ground wire is 2.5' long, but connected tightly with ring connector to a stock-screw at the back of the middle console. This screw holds down the back/right side of the console metal frame and screws into the metal frame below. Metal to metal, no paint. Multi-meter reads 0.1 tested with probe at various spots.

I installed everything myself (this is my second install), except I let my local audio shop install the DSP for me. I got the DSP to keep stock stereo and therefore the tech functionality like steering wheel controls, bluetooth stuff, backup camera, etc...

DSP gets installed, then I go home and install everything else (it actually took me 2 weekends lol..  ) ... I haven't calibrated the DSP yet, and my amp gains are set all the way down. I turn on my car just to see how it sounds (aka, does it work?). As soon as the speakers get power, I notice a hiss/static/buzz/white noise/electrical noise come through all the speakers (but not sub). Radio played fine, it sounded pretty good, but still the static/etc problem. Wasn't sure if I should calibrate the DSP/etc, so I waited; The next day I go to my local audio shop b/c they're supposed to do the tuning for me $50 and I was hoping they'd be able to fix the static/etc problem as well.

They set up the FIX 86 DSP software on their laptop and I find out the DSP has its own master volume and subwoofer level settings (slider controls in the software). As he turns them down from 100%, the static/etc problem starts going away, by 60, definitely 50%, it's all gone. Great! .. He sets the amp gains to about ~50% so about 1.0v (range is 5min to 0.2max). Stereo to 30 out of 40 volume (so 3/4). Calibrates DSP. He sets EQ/etc and sends it to DSP and unhooks laptop. Turns car off then back on, and... static/etc problem is back... :worried: He tells me he's done a few of these FIX 86 DSPs and when you turn the car off and back on, the master volume/sub level always seem to get reset back to their default of 100%... The DSP just doesn't remember your setting for that (not sure if it resets the EQ/etc). He recommended a "band aid" fix; install the DRC-100 knob and keep it on 50% to "force" the master volume/sub level to stay at 50%. Ok I thought.. if that's what it takes to fix it, let's do it.. and so we did. They bring my car around and hand me the keys. I get in and play some music, but then I start noticing my tweeters are now buzzing/distorting, but only with music playing. It actually sounded like there was a loose connection for them, but it was both tweeters.. we double-checked ALL connections and everything was good. We troubleshoot some and find that at 60% or higher on the DRC-100 knob, the original static/white noise/etc problem comes back, but any lower and the tweeters have this buzz/distort sound... So we turn it up to ~75% (with static/etc problem) and turn the volume to 30 and the music sounds great.. but again, the static/etc is there. he sets it back around 50% and just tells me that's all he can really do. (I had to go at this point, so I thanked him and left).

Later on, I get my own laptop out and start troubleshooting. Still can't get DSP to remember master volume/sub level from laptop calibration, so I use the calibration button on the physical DSP unit itself. I had stock stereo at 30 of 40 volume, DRC set to 50%. This partially helped. Somehow the tweeters are working fine now. I also tinker around and find that the original static/white noise/etc problem is almost all gone, but starts coming back with the DRC-100 turned back up to around 90% or higher. My amp gains at this point are set all the way down.. and I can only assume that's the reason. However, I played some music at this point and it just sounded very weak, not very good SQ, and doesn't get very loud.. So I unhook the Kenwood amp speaker outputs and get my multi-meter. Calculated speaker channels need to be ~15.499v and sub to be ~30v. I softly tightened the probes down in the amp outputs and started testing. However, my multi-meter is reading FAR above my target voltage of 15.5v... I turn the DRC-100 knob down to 25%. Still FAR above target. I notice if I barely turn the DRC knob, even a tiny little bit, it jumps ~15-25v at a time.. So I found this video: (Link) and it says around 4:18 "If excessive voltage is being read with the input sensitivity dial turned all the way down, switch the amp’s input voltage from Low to High" ok.. so that's what's happening on my multi-meter.. but my Kenwood XR-5S amp doesn't have this "Low/High" Input Voltage setting.. so now I'm stuck. I try to research but can't find any info to help... I run out of time and just set my amp gains to ~25% so about ~3v (range is 5 min to 0.2 max). It still sounds weak, not good SQ, a little louder but still doesn't get very loud... and now I'm here. Fwew, if you've read this far, thank you!!

1. First of all, any thoughts, advice, tips, tricks, etc, etc... anything that may help?

2. Any thoughts on the FIX 86 DSP laptop calibration; DSP "forgets" my settings when I turn car off/back on..? The Turn-On Mode is set to "Remote", same as my amp.

3. Although the DSP is calibrated via the button on the unit itself, that means my EQ is stuck to being flat... Can't fix that until I can get the laptop calibration to work.

4. Any idea how I can set my amp gains if my multi-meter shows excessive voltage, but my amp doesn't have a built in "Low/High" Input Voltage setting..? Any tips on setting amp gain with a DSP in general..?

5. At least in the laptop software, it shows the DSP default output voltage as 1.0 volts for all channels (I assume calibration button on DSP unit is the same). Do I need to measure the DSP RCA outputs with my multi-meter; and is it safe to do that and not short anything? (Doesn't increasing the stereo volume make the volts increase though..? ugh idk..)

6. The stock amp is between the stock stereo and the DSP. Do I just need to attempt to re-do the DSP install that my local audio tech did and bypass the stock amp all together..? Would that potentially help..?

Again, if you're read this far, thank you. I would really appreciate any help you can offer; troubleshooting tips, things to try, anything really.. I'll check back in after work tmrw, adios.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

It sounds to me like the onboard master volume should be turned down like he did, your creating noise with a dirty output, you can compensate that low output on the amp end whitch it seems like was done but that's some marlarcy that wouldn't retain master volume setting I'd be on the horn with jl like yesterday. 

Far as changing wiring I'd keep it simple that's where it was designed to be no? What's the point of it all if your cutting out your stock amp, not sure it can be done either most cars put out a logic 7 or some kinda funny codec these days. That's what my Kia is. Only Alpine and jbl decode logic 7. But than in my case my voulmes done on the CAN buss. So than if I used one of those I'd have to use the DSP for volume. 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## ominous (Apr 21, 2017)

I've got a 2013 Accord EX-L with the touchscreen radio and a Fix-86. Just want to say that you don't need the Fix-86 with the touch screen radio (the push button radio on LX, EX and Sport models do need it due to the bass roll of below 80hz). You can pull a clean signal before the amp, you just need an amp that accepts balanced differential inputs. 

Here are my thoughts (sorry, they are random because I'm at work and didn't have time to match them to your individual questions):

As far as calibration using the laptop, are you saving it before disconnecting from the Fix? I've done 4-5 calibrations without issue and it always takes without an issue. Do the calibration, tune it to your liking then click on the "Save Project" button on the left hand side of the SETUP tab (second icon from the top). Name it, click save and you're done. 

As for the noise issue, I don't have one. What I did was to set the gains on my amp (JL Audio RD900/5) to their minimum setting. Then go to the Fix, click the menu icon in the Outputs section and change the output gain (mine is set at 2.0V, feel free to experiment). Once that's done (and saved) then go to your amp(s) and adjust accordingly. I ended up leaving channels 1-4 at minimum and channel 5 (sub channel) turned up about a quarter turn. I've had no issues since. 

I do not use the DRC (didn't bother purchasing it), my volume is controlled through the factory HU. It is slightly non-linear (volume increases in bigger steps the higher I turn the volume) but otherwise works well. 

If the Fix has been calibrated you should be able to tune it with the laptop whether you calibrated it with a laptop or from the unit itself. When you plug your laptop into the Fix it should prompt you to load the existing calibration currently in use on the Fix to your laptop. If it doesn't maybe the shop you took it to didn't save it? I've got 4 different tuning sessions saved on my Fix and can load any of them to the Fix without issue.

Good luck with the install. Hope you're able to figure it out.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

eviling said:


> It sounds to me like the onboard master volume should be turned down like he did, your creating noise with a dirty output, you can compensate that low output on the amp end whitch it seems like was done but that's some marlarcy that wouldn't retain master volume setting I'd be on the horn with jl like yesterday.
> 
> Far as changing wiring I'd keep it simple that's where it was designed to be no? What's the point of it all if your cutting out your stock amp, not sure it can be done either most cars put out a logic 7 or some kinda funny codec these days. That's what my Kia is. Only Alpine and jbl decode logic 7. But than in my case my voulmes done on the CAN buss. So than if I used one of those I'd have to use the DSP for volume.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk



-By onboard master volume, you mean the stock or OEM stereo volume, right? I calibrated it every time at 30 or 40 volume which is what I see recommended everywhere. I'm not sure how to tell exactly at what volume my stock stereo distorts, so I just went with 3/4 volume..
-Not sure what you mean by dirty output.
-I can compensate on amp end, but I thought I'm supposed to have the output as high as I can get it as early in the chain without getting distortion? So you're saying turn stock/OEM stereo down even more and then calibrate it, at like.. 20 of 40 volume?
-Not sure what "marlarcy" means.
-I'm emailing with JL tech support. They said the DSP isn't meant to remember the master volume setting/sub level when calibrating it from the laptop. It will either get reset to 100% (what's happening to mine) or you can control it with DRC-100 or -200 add-ons. (I have the DRC-100).


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

ominous said:


> I've got a 2013 Accord EX-L with the touchscreen radio and a Fix-86. Just want to say that you don't need the Fix-86 with the touch screen radio (the push button radio on LX, EX and Sport models do need it due to the bass roll of below 80hz). You can pull a clean signal before the amp, you just need an amp that accepts balanced differential inputs.
> 
> Here are my thoughts (sorry, they are random because I'm at work and didn't have time to match them to your individual questions):
> 
> ...


-Thanks; I have the touchscreen with extra screen up top. I don't think my amp has balanced differential inputs (I'm just using the RCA inputs).
-Yes, I do the calibration, set EQ/etc, save it to PC, then push it to DSP. I'm emailing JL tech support; they told me that the master volume/sub level sliders in the software are only used when connected to the laptop. It remembers it after I push it to the DSP until I turn the car off, but tech support said it's supposed to go back to 100% (default) once you turn the car back on. To otherwise set it, you have to get the DRC-100 (I have this) or the DRC-200 knobs... Since I get the static/hiss/white noise problem at 100%, I either need to use the DRC-100 permanently to keep it at 50% or below, or do something else in my tuning to fix it some other way. Tech support suggested trying 32-35 stock stereo volume for calibrating. Other poster here said try it at a lower stock stereo volume to calibrate; so I guess I'll try it both ways when I get a chance... or maybe the static/etc is coming from something else.. again, my ground should be good. I'll have to check my RCAs by pulling them partially out of my car (but still all hooked up on both ends) and see if they're picking up any interference from something (even tho power wire is down middle and RCAs goi down right side).

-Ok, I haven't experimented with the output gain yet. It's always been at the default 1.0v for all channels. Is it better to have it set to 2.0v on the DSP and my amp gains lower, or set it lower on the DSP like 0.5v and then turn my amp up higher..?
-I'd prefer not to need the DRC myself. I just got it to force the DSP volume to stay 50% like my audio tech suggested. Again, I'll play around with it.

-I think when you save the tuning/project, it saves to your PC? or both I guess, as I have seen that "load from existing calibration" (or w/e it says exactly). I didn't realize you could save more than one calibration on the DSP itself.

Thanks c: I'll try some of this stuff out next time I have tinker time.


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## ominous (Apr 21, 2017)

Hyperlite147 said:


> -Thanks; I have the touchscreen with extra screen up top. I don't think my amp has balanced differential inputs (I'm just using the RCA inputs).
> -Yes, I do the calibration, set EQ/etc, save it to PC, then push it to DSP. I'm emailing JL tech support; they told me that the master volume/sub level sliders in the software are only used when connected to the laptop. It remembers it after I push it to the DSP until I turn the car off, but tech support said it's supposed to go back to 100% (default) once you turn the car back on. To otherwise set it, you have to get the DRC-100 (I have this) or the DRC-200 knobs... Since I get the static/hiss/white noise problem at 100%, I either need to use the DRC-100 permanently to keep it at 50% or below, or do something else in my tuning to fix it some other way. Tech support suggested trying 32-35 stock stereo volume for calibrating. Other poster here said try it at a lower stock stereo volume to calibrate; so I guess I'll try it both ways when I get a chance... or maybe the static/etc is coming from something else.. again, my ground should be good. I'll have to check my RCAs by pulling them partially out of my car (but still all hooked up on both ends) and see if they're picking up any interference from something (even tho power wire is down middle and RCAs goi down right side).
> 
> -Ok, I haven't experimented with the output gain yet. It's always been at the default 1.0v for all channels. Is it better to have it set to 2.0v on the DSP and my amp gains lower, or set it lower on the DSP like 0.5v and then turn my amp up higher..?
> ...


Only one calibration will save at a time, but you can save multiple different tunes from that one calibration. Think of it kind of like presets. Do a calibration, then you can set different tunes (one for rock, hip hop, acoustic, etc...) all based on the same calibration. 

I never bought the DRC and it hasn't been a problem for me. The Honda factory HU controls volume, balance, fade. bass, treble and subwoofer. Also not sure why yours was resetting when the power was switched off. Again, never had that issue. 

One thing to remember, while the factory HU has been measured with no clipping at full volume, you're pulling signal from the factory amp, which I'm pretty sure clips at some point. Your amp may not accept balanced differential but the Fix does. If all else fails and you can't get it working you can always pull the signal before the amp and run it to the Fix. It's an expensive way to get preamp outputs but if you're stuck with the Fix (I don't know if you can return it) at least it will take the balanced differential outputs from the factory radio and make them usable to your Kenwood. If you can return it, maybe you can invest in a different amp. Just a suggestion.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

ominous said:


> Only one calibration will save at a time, but you can save multiple different tunes from that one calibration. Think of it kind of like presets. Do a calibration, then you can set different tunes (one for rock, hip hop, acoustic, etc...) all based on the same calibration.
> 
> I never bought the DRC and it hasn't been a problem for me. The Honda factory HU controls volume, balance, fade. bass, treble and subwoofer. Also not sure why yours was resetting when the power was switched off. Again, never had that issue.
> 
> One thing to remember, while the factory HU has been measured with no clipping at full volume, you're pulling signal from the factory amp, which I'm pretty sure clips at some point. Your amp may not accept balanced differential but the Fix does. If all else fails and you can't get it working you can always pull the signal before the amp and run it to the Fix. It's an expensive way to get preamp outputs but if you're stuck with the Fix (I don't know if you can return it) at least it will take the balanced differential outputs from the factory radio and make them usable to your Kenwood. If you can return it, maybe you can invest in a different amp. Just a suggestion.


Okay, that makes sense. Since you don't have the DRC, that means regardless of what you set the master volume/sub level to in the laptop software, once your car is turned off/back on, then your DSP will go back to 100% volume on the unit. So you must not be getting that static/etc problem on yours. Again, jl tech support said that's how it's supposed to work. So mine must be saving the EQs and all that, so that's good. Now I just need to focus on the static/etc problem itself, as well as figuring out how to set my amp gains with a multi-meter. Only problem is, it's showing "excessive voltage" on the amp speaker outputs and my amp doesn't have a "Low/High" Input Voltage setting. So I need to figure out another way to measure the volts... unless I'm doing it wrong on my MM. I've seen several sources/videos/etc say to set it to ACV or "~V" Hz) on the MM, and that's what I did for mine. Does that sound correct? I have a Fluke MM, you can just google it to see what it looks like/the settings.

Ok, I will try calibration with stock stereo at 32-25 like the JL tech said, as well as lower than 30 like another commenter here said. Maybe at 30 it's getting too much gain/clipping from the stock amp.. idk.

I'm not sure if I can return the FIX 86 since they installed it, I'll try to find out. Bypassing the stock amp will be a last resort I guess.

Going back this weekend so I'll troubleshoot this stuff.

Thanks!


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## ominous (Apr 21, 2017)

I've haven't set my gains with a DMM for years (couldn't afford a decent one when I was younger). I don't compete, so as long as I can get it set to where it's loud enough and doesn't have noise issues I'm happy.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

ominous said:


> I've haven't set my gains with a DMM for years (couldn't afford a decent one when I was younger). I don't compete, so as long as I can get it set to where it's loud enough and doesn't have noise issues I'm happy.


Ah ok, I'm just using one of my stepdads MM's. He's an EE so he has several in his garage/shop.

I certainly don't compete either lol, and that's basically what Im trying to do as well, but I *am* getting noise issues  and I'm also just trying to match output RMS so my speakers/sub don't get too much and clip/distort/get damaged.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

So this is a little bit of an update.. I pulled 90% of the RCAs out of the car (left both ends plugged in) and made sure they were not overlapping and were as far away as possible from the power wire (again power goes down middle, RCAs down right side). Doing this didn't change my original static/hiss/white noise problem at all.

TLDL: RCAs are not the source of my static/white noise/etc problem.

EDIT: also.. Not sure if I have time tonight, but tomorrow is definitely my tinkering day where I'll be trying out all of these troubleshooting ideas. Feel free to give me more ideas pls


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Hey bud, On your next attempt try this;
With the laptop connected, leave the "master volume" at 100% since this is the default. Note: the DRC will not function with the laptop connected. I have a similar set up and had the "noise" issue. I was not able to get it to go completely away. 

Set the output to the highest, IIRC, 2.0V is all you get. Then, set your amp gains on the low side. The FiX should have come with a Tuning CD. Play the total silence track. Then turn up the Vol. onthe HU, my best results with my 2014 Civic, were around 25 IIRC. 

Using that CD you should not hear any noise from the playback. The noise you will hear is coming from the HU.....Trust me.

Now you need to find the happy medium between the HU volume and the FiX's volume. You should be able to get the noise very low. But I suspect that you will never be able to turn up your gains and have some impact.

BTW, I also bypassed the factory amp. it did not help


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Hey bud, On your next attempt try this;
> With the laptop connected, leave the "master volume" at 100% since this is the default. Note: the DRC will not function with the laptop connected. I have a similar set up and had the "noise" issue. I was not able to get it to go completely away.
> 
> Set the output to the highest, IIRC, 2.0V is all you get. Then, set your amp gains on the low side. The FiX should have come with a Tuning CD. Play the total silence track. Then turn up the Vol. onthe HU, my best results with my 2014 Civic, were around 25 IIRC.
> ...


Thank you, I will try this out tomorrow 

Also, do you know anything about ground loop converters, or ferite (sp?) rings (saw that one in a video) or anything like that that might potentially help the static/etc problem? or is that stuff just if it's a ground problem?


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Hyperlite147 said:


> Thank you, I will try this out tomorrow
> 
> Also, do you know anything about ground loop converters, or ferite (sp?) rings (saw that one in a video) or anything like that that might potentially help the static/etc problem? or is that stuff just if it's a ground problem?


Don't waste your time. I will look on here tomorrow and see if I can help, nighty night!


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Don't waste your time. I will look on here tomorrow and see if I can help, nighty night!


Ok, so here's what I got so far. All of this so far is done with my calibration at 30 of 40 OEM/stock stereo volume...

1. Firmware is up to date. It said there was a new version but when I tried to put the new one on the DSP, it said there is already the same or a newer version already on it, so I didn't change anything there.
2. Changing the stock stereo volume does not effect the static/etc. (Haven't tried calibration at dif volume yet though).
3. Changing DSP master volume in tuning software, at 100% is has static, as you lower it, there is less static. At 0% there is still a little bit of noticeable static. This applies to all RCA output settings (500mV 710mV 1.0V 1.4V and 2.0V)... At 100% DSP master volume there is more static with 2.0v output than 1.0v, and 1.0v has more than 0.5v ... which makes sense i guess. When you turn them all down to 0% though, they all have the same level of static (like they're all just hitting a noise floor)... All of #3 was done with the amp gains set to the lowest setting... I also tried at all DSP output levels and confirmed that as I turn up the amp gain, the static does get louder/worse... so it seems like BOTH the amp gains AND the DSP RCA output voltages have an effect on the static... as well as the DSP master volume.
4. I'm about to go to local audio shop and swap out the DRC-100 for the DRC-200.
5. I will also talk to them about my amp... I noticed the little amp fan isn't running at all and it gets pretty hot... I don't know if anything is wrong with the amp itself other than the fan, but it plays music just fine (other than the static/etc problem...)

I'll see what I find out there at audio shop (they close at 5 and it's 1;30 now) so I should be back around ~4-5pm and keep doing troubleshooting. Next I plan to try out the stock stereo calibration at different volumes like 35 or 25 or 20 (instead of the current 30) and then do all these tests again at those levels and see if there is a difference.. bbl


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Don't waste your time. I will look on here tomorrow and see if I can help, nighty night!


UPDATE for all

Hey, so here's what I've figured out:

I did calibrations via laptop TUN software at OEM/stock stereo volumes 20, 25, 30, and 33, and the max volume (didn't do max) is 40. I was surprised to find out that in doing that, it didn't have an effect on the static/white noise problem at all... So all of this below applies to any calibration volume I have it set to (and I checked every single one of these for each calibration to confirm this):

1.(After calibration) Changing the stock stereo volume does not have any effect on the static/white noise problem. Doesn't matter if the volume is at , 20, or 4, it makes no difference.

2. With the amp gains all the way DOWN, and with the DSP master volume set to 100% (regardless if I am tinkering in the laptop software and changing it there, or if I'm changing it with the DRC-200 knob being unhooked from laptop (btw I returned the DRC-100 and got the DRC-20)) I can turn down the master volume and the static/white noise decreases with volume. However, even when I get to 0% DSP volume, although it's obviously quieter (and therefore so is music volume) there is still a little bit of static/etc.

3. I checked number 2 above at each calibration volume, and while also checking it against the DSP output voltage in the laptop software. The default DSP output voltage is 1.0v per channel (A B and SUB). Regardless of all other settings, when the DSP RCA output voltage is at 2.0v, it has the most static/white noise. At 1.4v is has a little less. At 1.0v (default) it has a little less. .710v and .500v are less as well. I'd describe it as 2.0 has high static, 1.0 has medium static, 0.5v has low static. Now, that's with the DSP *master volume* set to 100%... The interesting thing is (at least to me, idk? lol) is when I turn that DSP volume all the way down to 0%, it still has some low static, but for all DSP RCA output levels 2.0v-1.0v-0.5v etc, the static has the same volume at 0%.. so it's like they're all hitting the same noise floor. This is all with my amp gains set all the way DOWN.

4. (This was before I did the first re-calibration) I cleared the calibration that was on the DSP so it was basically like default out of the box. Turned car back on so stereo/etc turned on with NO calibration setting at all. This was by FAR the worst setting it could be in obviously lol, and the static/white noise with no calibration was absolutely terrible, fairly loud, and just sounded really bad.

5. This was my first calibration, I did 20 of 40 volume to start out. I ran through all the tests I described above and that's when I realized that the calibration volume wasn't making any difference in the static/white noise problem (as I mentioned at the top of this post)... I kept running all of these tests, each one for each time I did a new calibration (again, those are listed at beginning of post)...

Also, important note... Every time I did the calibration I would save the project to my PC and then transfer it to the DSP. I was able to load any project FROM the DSP device itself on TUN software start-up, BUT with a project open, I could click to open/load up a previously saved project from my PC, but when I did that, nothing changed.. it didn't give me any indication that it *didn't* load/open.. it just didn't change anything. The calibration graphs, the OEM inputs, the RCA outputs, the EQ, etc, etc was all the same after trying to load a different project with a lot of that stuff changed. Idk... so if I ever actually wanted to change the calibration, I'd have to put the CD in and run a new calibration at the stock stereo volume I wanted.

6. Anyway.. Since the stock stereo calibration volume didn't seem to make a difference, I decided to calibrate it back to 25 of 40 volume and then do some more tinkering... So at this point I know, the things that make the static/white noise problem get better/worse, are changes in the DSP master volume, the DSP RCA output levels, and the amp gain settings. I decided to leave the DSP master volume at 100% and tinker with the RCA output levels and amp gains. I was trying to see which was better: 2.0v DSP output level with amp gains at a matching 2.0v setting ...VS... 1.0v DSP output level with amp gains at matching 1.0v setting ...VS... 0.5v DSP output level with amp gains at a matching .5v setting... It was actually pretty hard to tell a difference between the static/white noise level of these. I'd say the 0.5v settings probably had a little more static/etc, but I didn't really notice a difference between the matched settings for the 2.0v test or the 1.0v test... Now with all of that said, I decided to put the DSP RCA outputs back to their default of 1.0v and match my amplifier gain settings to 1.0v as well (I actually put them at ~1.2v which is technically a lower gain setting/volume than if it was on 1.0v (that's how the amp gain settings work b/c 5.0v is the lowest setting (min) and 0.2v is the highest setting (max) on the amp gains))))))).

7. So with the settings just described in "6." above, I can play around with the DSP master volume by way of the DRC-200 knob (which controls the DSP master volume when you're not connected DSP to laptop TUN software). I can back this volume off from 100% to about 75% or 70% and get a good portion of the static/etc to go away (but it's still noticeable). If I keep turning the DRC knob down, the lower I go, my music obviously gets lower in volume, but it also starts sounding.. thinner, not as good SQ, not EQ balanced, etc.. but that's at least my opinion. JL Audio claims this volume knob should hold the EQ through all levels, but meh idk.. so I don't want to lower it past 75%.. and with that said, I'd really just like to leave it at 100% anyway, and then just use my stock stereo volume controls b/c I like the volume buttons on the steering wheel lol. But I do like having the DRC-200 so I can back down my subwoofer if needed b/c I listen to a wide range of music.

8. Here are some of the pictures I took of the calibrations; ( https://imgur.com/a/pP7ZO ) these mainly show the different OEM ANALOG INPUTS that are going from the stock OEM stereo, into the DSP. Note that I can't change the inputs as they are determined from the calibration. I can however change the DSP outputs.

9. So my stepdad (Elec. Eng) talked to a buddy at work and he told me since my amp seems grounded correctly, that I could potentially try cutting the ground wire for the DSP itself, and add my own wire and ground it to a better grounding spot to ensure that DSP is DEFINITELY grounded very well. At this point, I think that's a decent idea to at least try out, but I wanted to ask about you guys' thoughts on that first..?

10. So that's about all I've got.. until I can get some more input/advice on how to proceed. I think the main thing you may notice is that I didn't mention any multi-meter readings anywhere in here. Well.. I still just can't get the MM to give me a correct reading. So I did all my troubleshooting and amp gain settings without one. :/ oh well..

Finally, let me say thanks so much for reading through all that. As always, I'd really appreciate any help, thoughts, advice, tips, troubleshooting ideas, etc, etc that you can provide. Thanks!!


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## ominous (Apr 21, 2017)

Is the noise you're getting a steady hiss or does it vary with engine speed/accessory loads?


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

I am sorry for your troubles my friend, Some people are OK with a little "hiss", I am not. I am pretty sure you will be in the same boat as I was, I wanted a dead quiet noise floor.

I ended up with a stand alone HU


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

ominous said:


> Is the noise you're getting a steady hiss or does it vary with engine speed/accessory loads?


It's steady for the most part. If you get right up next to the tweeter you can hear it 'crackle' (that's the best word I've got for it lol) sometimes, and it sounds a bit more.. electrical sounding.

Other than that, no, nothing else seems to change it. Everything, from what I can tell, seems to be pointing towards a volume/gain issue somehow.. or _maybe_ a ground/interference problem somewhere.

Turning AC/etc on, accel pedal, etc etc, none of those things change it at all. Driving around, it doesn't get any better/worse, it just stays the same 'static' volume based on all my gain/etc settings.


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

There are also aftermarket HU's available for your application, very pricey $1,000 - $1,300. My local shop let me try one and It had the same awful glare issus, Honda did a really bad job with the placement of the HU's. For two years I had to close the sunroof shade just to see the display.

The aftermarket ones will work with all the other stuff on the car side too, go to Crutchfield and see what fits your car


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> I am sorry for your troubles my friend, Some people are OK with a little "hiss", I am not. I am pretty sure you will be in the same boat as I was, I wanted a dead quiet noise floor.
> 
> I ended up with a stand alone HU


I am not either :/ I just can't replace the stock stereo..

I know my last post was a lot to read.. but can you answer number 9 please?

Also, do regular speaker wires (like 16 gauge) or even my 18 gauge stock wiring, do they or can they pick up interference/static/white noise from the power wire? ... I ran the power wire through the middle of my firewall where most of the other wires go through (not sure exactly what all wires they are, but there's a lot)... my power wire is basically right beside them for about 1' or so.. that's where my local audio tech said he always runs his power wire in ppl's accords, and it's the only place I could find to get through.

EDIT: Thanks, but I don't really have the money for that, at least not for a long time. and even if I did, not sure I can justify that price/time/etc to remove the static I have now lol. meh :/


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

You could try changing the ground location, I would hope that the installer did good job there. 

You shouldn't have to "Cut" the ground wire from the FiX, it should be a screw in terminal. Is the FiX mounted near the amp?

The power wire shouldn't affect the speaker wires, when you think of it, the factory speaker wires are run next to power wires all throughout the car


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Hyperlite147 said:


> EDIT: Thanks, but I don't really have the money for that, at least not for a long time. and even if I did, not sure I can justify that price/time/etc to remove the static I have now lol. meh :/


I feel your pain! even with the Pioneer HU, the glare was unbearable. That's why I have that crazy little JL Marine HU, purpose buit to prevent glare, large display, IP 66 rating, and my favorite......A knob!

Got it for $150 as an open box/display!


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> You could try changing the ground location, I would hope that the installer did good job there.
> 
> You shouldn't have to "Cut" the ground wire from the FiX, it should be a screw in terminal. Is the FiX mounted near the amp?
> 
> The power wire shouldn't affect the speaker wires, when you think of it, the factory speaker wires are run next to power wires all throughout the car


other quote: I feel your pain! even with the Pioneer HU, the glare was unbearable. That's why I have that crazy little JL Marine HU, purpose buit to prevent glare, large display, IP 66 rating, and my favorite......A knob!

Got it for $150 as an open box/display!


===

There are 4 wires, about the size of like.. I'd guess 14 gauge maybe? I think it's continuous power RED, alternating power ???, remote wire BLUE, and ground wire BLACK. These are tied into the other wiring somehow, that all goes either to the stock amp or the stock stereo. These are in a wiring harness plugged into the DSP. I can't really tell where the ground wire goes.. I think to the stock amp, but point is it's not like on a screw or w/e that I can remove and put somewhere else...

That's why I was going to cut it like a foot out from DSP and then add my own wire and ground it somewhere good. idk tho.. not sure if that'd help, but I'm about out of other ideas.

I'm so glad to heard that it's not likely to be the speaker wire/power wire problem. That'd be rly hard to fix lol.

Yeah, the glare can be rough sometimes. What I hate more is the little chrome/silver accents in the car. Like the one around the cup holders during about mid day or 2-3pm, the sun glares off of that SO BRIGHT right into my eyes. I'm about to just rip it off and see if I can find a replacement, or maybe paint it black lmfao..

Ah cool, knobs are great aren't they lols

EDIT: forgot to answer;; the FIX is under the passenger dash like where your feet go, but shoved up under there more. It's basically beside the stock amp, and then it runs RCA down right side panels/floor to my kenwood amp under the passenger seat.


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Hyperlite147 said:


> There are 4 wires, about the size of like.. I'd guess 14 gauge maybe? I think it's continuous power RED, alternating power ???, remote wire BLUE, and ground wire BLACK. These are tied into the other wiring somehow, that all goes either to the stock amp or the stock stereo. These are in a wiring harness plugged into the DSP. I can't really tell where the ground wire goes.. I think to the stock amp, but point is it's not like on a screw or w/e that I can remove and put somewhere else...
> 
> Wait a minute, the FiX is grounded to the factory amp? You need to move that! Find a solid part of the structure of the car and make sure to remove ALL of the paint. There is a screw on terminal on the FiX, I will post some pics in a minute or so.
> 
> ...


++++


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

I know the picture are of the JL TwK, but the connectors are identical.

You can remove the connector, uncrew the set screw for the ground and add a new ground wire from there. You can jus dead end the old ground wire provided you use copiuos amounts of tape, it's also a good idea to cut the stripped end of the old ground before you tape it up.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> I know the picture are of the JL TwK, but the connectors are identical.
> 
> You can remove the connector, uncrew the set screw for the ground and add a new ground wire from there. You can jus dead end the old ground wire provided you use copiuos amounts of tape, it's also a good idea to cut the stripped end of the old ground before you tape it up.


Ok, so here are some picture I just took: https://imgur.com/a/2QL4D ... i think the last picture will be especially helpful. I labeled the wires to help.

So you're saying I can either cut this black wire and remove the splice (or disconnect it from the DSP wiring harness via screw) and then add speaker wire (I only have a little bit of 16 gauge wire left, is 16 gauge good enough?) and find a good ground point and connect it there..?

and dead end/tape the other wire?

If that's what you're saying, I'll see if I can do that soon or I may have to wait 1-2 hours for my stepdad to wake up (he's working an odd shift right now) and he can make sure I pick a good ground point for the DSP ground wire.

Thanks!!!!


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## Locomotive Tech (May 23, 2016)

Yes, you are correct in your understanding. When you think of it, with that set-up, you have three devices grounded through the same wire. And, just so you know, the outter rings of the RCA cables are grounded through the same place at the FiX, your Kenwood is also the same way, RCA's grounded to the (-) of the primary ground of the amp. You might be experiencing a difference in potential from the amp side of the RCA's to the FiX side of the RCA's. this imbalance can cause the RCA grounds to allow flow in one direction and any eddy currents will be imparted into the signal (Center pin) wire of the RCA, you could just be hearing the hiss of the factory amp being imparted into your system.


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## Hyperlite147 (Oct 12, 2017)

Locomotive Tech said:


> Yes, you are correct in your understanding. When you think of it, with that set-up, you have three devices grounded through the same wire. And, just so you know, the outter rings of the RCA cables are grounded through the same place at the FiX, your Kenwood is also the same way, RCA's grounded to the (-) of the primary ground of the amp. You might be experiencing a difference in potential from the amp side of the RCA's to the FiX side of the RCA's. this imbalance can cause the RCA grounds to allow flow in one direction and any eddy currents will be imparted into the signal (Center pin) wire of the RCA, you could just be hearing the hiss of the factory amp being imparted into your system.


THanks man, so my stepdad gave me a 12 gauge wire and I screwed it into the wiring harness (barely fit, but fits good) and I grounded it to a stock ground screw, reads 0.1 as well for a ground. I only listened to it for about a minute, but I do think that helped it a little bit, so we're making progress. I'm out of time today though; have to drive back to my place 2 hours away and won't be able to do much tinkering until I can make it back here another time.. but anyway, thanks for your help. I really do appreciate it!! I'll drive around over the next week or two and see if it's at a low enough volume that I can stop worrying about it lol. Also to figure out my EQ preferences as well.

Anyway, g2g get on the road, ttyl


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## UNCLEDAN23 (Jan 8, 2018)

okay I'm no expert here so just take it for what it's worth. but I was under the impression that while it is summing equalizing and other witchcraft that it does, it's also supposedly taking the noise out of the line at least according to Crutchfield. So if that is the case then you just knocked out half your search anything before the unit should be taken care of. So that only leaves really two options Option 1 is anything coming out of the unit going into amp speakers any of that ****, or it's the unit itself. now if you're still under full replacement warranty I would send it back and just get a ****ing new one and if you're still under the fix warranty send it to JL and have them refurbish it cuz I would almost guarantee you've probably got a bad solder or two on the board and they just happen to be in line with a bunch of other things. like I said my two cents take it or leave it but that's what I do


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## Stevo. (Jul 23, 2020)

Hi all hoping I can get some direction from you guys in relation to my stereo instal into a 2008 Mini Cooper S with oem sat nav / stereo CCC.
I decided to add a Fix 86 and feed the 4 audio speaker outputs into this to clean up the signal put out by the head unit.
The voltage for the RCA outputs on the fix 86 is set to 1v and this is fed via 4 phono leads to the 4 channel amplifier the gain on the amplifier is set to 4V for both front and rear outputs.
The problem I am getting is it only takes a small amount of rotation literally a couple of clicks on the oem head unit to reach ridiculous level. 
I can lower the 
What am I missing and be gentle lol


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## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

Stevo. said:


> Hi all hoping I can get some direction from you guys in relation to my stereo instal into a 2008 Mini Cooper S with oem sat nav / stereo CCC.
> I decided to add a Fix 86 and feed the 4 audio speaker outputs into this to clean up the signal put out by the head unit.
> The voltage for the RCA outputs on the fix 86 is set to 1v and this is fed via 4 phono leads to the 4 channel amplifier the gain on the amplifier is set to 4V for both front and rear outputs.
> The problem I am getting is it only takes a small amount of rotation literally a couple of clicks on the oem head unit to reach ridiculous level.
> ...


Been a while since I had the fix but check the following ... You want to be able to turn the volume up 3/4 or full volume and have a comfortable listening level.



lower the gains on your amplifier if possible.
If there’s a high to low level input toggle on your amp try to use that to lower gains
OR ... If your amp gains are all the way down, Go into the fix software and lower the volume permanently inside the software and don't touch it anymore.
OR (This is technically the ideal according to JL) leave the factory stereo volume at the same number you calibrated at and only use the JL audio volume knob.


- Can your fix calibrate with less factory inputs? Consider your factory speaker leads and the results during calibration. My OEM front midwoofer speaker leads actually had the whole frequency range, there was enough for the fix to calibrate without adding the tweeters. When I added the OEM Tweeter signal it was overkill and sounded weird until I removed the tweets from slots 1/2 & 3/4. I also removed the subwoofer leads from the fix. If it sounds strange still this could be the issue like in my old vehicle
[Front Tweets and Mids factory stereo volume @ 29/40]










[Mids only volume 30/40 - mids have the full range so extra inputs (tweeters and subwoofer signals) were not necessary and we're"overloading" it if you will ... This sounded much better less hiss and distortion]










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stevo. (Jul 23, 2020)

01LSi said:


> Been a while since I had the fix but check the following ... You want to be able to turn the volume up 3/4 or full volume and have a comfortable listening level.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Many thanks for your help i was under the impression that the Fix86 does not hold the master volume setting set in the software once you leave the software?


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## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

Stevo. said:


> Many thanks for your help i was under the impression that the Fix86 does not hold the master volume setting set in the software once you leave the software?


oh ... Hmmm. I'm pretty confident that it would hold it at like any % for example ... Unless you also have the DRC remote plugged in, I think that will override whatever percentage you set the master volume in the software. Could be wrong but should be easy enough to test by listening before and after

If that's the case and a set master volume is a good solution in your context, you could unplug the DRC entirely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stevo. (Jul 23, 2020)

Hi I dont have the master external remote, i thought i could set the master volume in the software and save it as part of the profile when saving it to the Fix but it doesnt save it 
Thanks for the reply


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## 01LSi (Jul 27, 2012)

Stevo. said:


> Hi I dont have the master external remote, i thought i could set the master volume in the software and save it as part of the profile when saving it to the Fix but it doesnt save it
> Thanks for the reply


Looks like you're right. Memory failed me. DRC should manually hold the master volume position then as JL tech support states


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