# Old School PPI ART SERIES .2 Amplifier Reconditioning & Repairs



## Darth SQ

I have been wanting to start this technical thread for a very long time.
As all of you know by now, I am hell bent on bringing back the old school amps and actually competing with the PPI-ART .2 series amps from 1996.
Sounds easy enough right?
Just find really good examples of what I need, buy them, and then install them.
Well, it turns out it is just not that easy.

Over time, it has become very clear that just buying these 15 year old amps isn't enough; they absolutely need maintenance, upgrades, and even worse, repairs.

EVEN IF YOUR AMP IS BRAND NEW IN THE BOX, THE SHELF LIFE FOR CAPACITORS IS ROUGHLY FIVE YEARS REGARDLESS IF THEY AREN'T LEAKING. THEY DO DEGRADE OVER TIME.

Everyone of my amps were completely out of adjustment in many catagories, with leaking caps, bad soldering, poor previous repairs, and even worse, degraded maximum power output (wattage) from the sum total of all these problems and that's if you're lucky.

This thread will address this in great detail with pictures to help clarify all the tech speak.
Now I am not an electrical engineer, but my aerospace schooling and automotive training gave me enough background and understanding to grasp what my repair tech (The Stig) was explaining and I will do my best to translate it all into this thread.

Reconditioning and repairs will take place and be fully documented in this thread for the following amps from 1996:

A100.2
A100.2
A300.2
A404.2
A600.2
Ax606.2
A1200.2

Amplifier wattage output specifications from PPI

Art Series Model: A100.2 A200.2 A300.2 A600.2 A1200.2

4 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Stereo: 25 Watts 50 Watts 75 Watts 150 Watts 300 Watts
2 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Stereo: 50 Watts 100 Watts 150 Watts 300 Watts 600 Watts
4 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Bridged: 100 Watts 200 Watts 300 Watts 600 Watts 1200 Watts
Power Fuse: 20 Amp 20 Amp 30 Amp 40 Amp 100 Amp

4-Channel Model: A204.2 A404.2
4 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Stereo: 25 Watts 50 Watts
2 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Stereo: 50 Watts 100 Watts
4 Ohms, 11-15 VDC, Bridged: 100 Watts 200 Watts
Power Fuse: 20 Amp 50 Amp


Both A100.2 are completed and back in my posession.
The A300.2 still needs some newly found failed transistors.
The A600.2, Ax606.2, and A1200.2 were dropped off Friday and will follow after the A300.2 is completed.
I will add to this post as they come along.

Ok let's start with the 1st A100.2. 

Paid $50.00 with two separated power pins from the board.
Repairs and reconditioning costs are classified.


Amp prior to repair









Power pin repair













































Leaking Capacitors


















Board prior to repairs


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## Darth SQ

Continuation of the A100.2 #1.

Clean up of the heatsink









New Kapton tape instead of the mica boards



























Board cleaned up



























Upgraded capacitors
These are higher temp version to help them last a little longer.









Capacitors removed and solder cleaned up









New capacitors installed


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## Darth SQ

More new capacitors.









Board work completed, all cleaned up, new Kapton tape, and new grease.
Note the old parts in the background in a baggy.


















Proper backing plate installation procedure.
1st, take off the endplates so you can see the contact points all along the edges of the plate.









Bend the backing plate tension tabs down 1/8" and align them with each other prior to re-installation
Tighten the bolts only to the point that the backing plate makes contact with the heatsink at the Kapton tape.
Then another 1/4" but no more.
If you go too far you could strip out the heatsink and/or make contact with an internal component.









Look inside and confirm all tabs on properly contacting the fets and transistors.


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## Darth SQ

This one benched at 93.5 watts bridged @ 4ohms after completed tuning and balancing.
Rated power 100watts bridged at 4 ohms.

So this one is all ready to go just like the day it was made.
I will post the 2nd A100.2 shortly.
I will do my best to answer your questions as they come up.
Hope this is as informative as it was for me when I was sponging up everything my tech was educating me on last Friday.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## bkjay

This is great! Thanks for taking the time to post this.


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## Darth SQ

No problem.
I'd have #2 on here but Photobucket is taking forever to upload tonight.
Might have to post it in the morning.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## wdemetrius1

Thanks for posting. I have been waiting to see this thread.


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## dogsbark26

Fascinating. Thank you for sharing.

What criteria did you analyze in choosing your repair technician?

How were you able to qualify the capabilities of a repair technician?


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## Darth SQ

dogsbark26 said:


> Fascinating. Thank you for sharing.
> 
> What criteria did you analyze in choosing your repair technician?
> 
> How were you able to qualify the capabilities of a repair technician?


Great questions.

I needed the best of the best at old school ppi.
I looked for a full year to find that tech.
In my searches, there are only two maybe three that meet/exceed that bar in the entire USA.

Turns out my tech is also the best of the best for other old school amps and many of today's high end treasures.
Now, I apologize for not explaining further, but The Stig (alias) has asked me not to tell.
Hopefully in the future, I will be able to state the process I used to actually locate my tech but it would give away The Stig's identity. 

I would like to divulge one more piece of info.
I spent over 2 1/2 hours talking with my tech discussing just the repairs on the A100.2s, it's original construction, and what each component does and why it was chosen by PPI *all on his dime.*

Now that's passion.
I felt like a padawan listening to Yoda explain the force. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Ok, I am going to now post the repairs and reconditioning performed to the A100.2 #2.
If some of it seems redundant with the above A100.2, I am sorry, but I think it's important to present an a to z post.

This one had some unexpected surprises that required using some old boards I had for parts.
Keep in mind that a number of components are no longer available new including the power supplies.

A100.2 #2
Paid $80.00 with a statement of it being in good operating condition.
Repairs and reconditioning costs are classified.


Amp prior to repairs


















Board before repairs



























Ceramic boards









Typical overly greased from the PPI factory









Maxi fuse was loose and about to fall out
Had to adjust the crimps on the retaining tabs and grease them to allow the blades to slide in smoothly but firmly


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## Darth SQ

Really piss poor rca connector repair



























RCA connector removed and solder cleaned up


















Donor A600.2 board









Replacement rca connector installed


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## Darth SQ

Board cleaned up


















Heatsink cleaned up









New Kapton tape applied



























Repopulated board with all new capacitors









Board reinstalled









Close up of tech's board ground upgrade using a loop connector head cut off from the crimp portion


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## Darth SQ

Heatsink tabs adjustment
(Before)


















(After)


















Proper tab tension


















Proper grease application


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## Darth SQ

This one benched at 103.8 watts bridged @ 4ohms after completed tuning and balancing.
Rated power 100watts bridged at 4 ohms.

This one is also all ready to go just like the day it was made.
I will post the A300.2 within the next two weeks.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR

Green lighted and ready to go









Completed amp









Both A100.2 amps finished


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## Darth SQ

Question from 2167 on my install thread was the following:

_The kapton tape replaced the thermal grease?
If i was going to do that to my Power class amps is their anything i should know?
I looked up some kapton tape and it was in 1 mil and 2 mil? _

No, the Kapton tape is designed to replace the mica boards (thin sheet between the fets and the heatsink) but you still need to use the thermal grease. Just remember you don't need to glob it on like PPI did at the factory. Please use the above pics for reference.

The Stig says he uses 1mil but 2mil is fine and makes no difference. He also says the process is the same for the Power Class amps as shown above for my Arts. The hardest part is getting every component and the heatsink thoroughly cleaned prior to tape installation.
Hope that helps.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## silverdiesel2574

Very interesting thread, thx


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## Robb

sweet !


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## astrochex

This is fascinating, Bret.

IMO, its instructive for any future art series owner. subscribed.


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## Lymen

Great info, and got one heck of a tech in "The Stig".


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## Darth SQ

Lymen said:


> Great info, and got one heck of a tech in "The Stig".


I think so as well. 
The A300.2 and A600.2 are up next.
Should be within the next two weeks.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## silverdiesel2574

I was so impressed with your thread, that i asked about doing this stuff to my Hifonics amps. I have VII and VIII amps that need a good tune-up and upgrade. But i havent got any really bites yet. 
Please let me know what you guys think. THX


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## Darth SQ

silverdiesel2574 said:


> I was so impressed with your thread, that i asked about doing this stuff to my Hifonics amps. I have VII and VIII amps that need a good tune-up and upgrade. But i havent got any really bites yet.
> Please let me know what you guys think. THX


By getting any bites, do you mean finding some technician that would be willing to do it?
I wish you all the best on that.
Maybe pm envisionlec (Aaron), and see if he can do it.
I know he's repairing Soundstreams and possibly other brands.
Hope that helps.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Shinju

I highly recommend anyone with ppi amplifiers from the 90's have a tech or DIY it to get rid of that old crappy dried up thermal paste and use high temp kapton tape!

(There is a thread I did posted somewhere here)

I did this on a few ppi amps 2 2300's and a promos 450, make a world of difference in heat disapation on those bpj's as they run very hot


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## Shinju

silverdiesel2574 said:


> I was so impressed with your thread, that i asked about doing this stuff to my Hifonics amps. I have VII and VIII amps that need a good tune-up and upgrade. But i havent got any really bites yet.
> Please let me know what you guys think. THX


Those series of hifonics use fet clips and thermal soft pads, I have yet to see those fail with age, my saying is if it ain't baroque don't fix it!

Kapton tape is easy to do yourself if you have a keen sense on breaking something down and putting back together with no extra parts left in the parts tray!


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## deeppinkdiver

This is AWESOME Bret! There are a few PPI art series in my near future [PM'd you about them] and I would love to have them gone through. Not sure who your secret tech is but I'm fortunate enough to live within 10 minutes drive to Aaron's house/shop -Envisionelectric- only problem is our schedules don't click. Ill be meeting him very soon for some repairs to an old Massive Audio RS650 I bought blown.

I'm in like Flynn for following the progress on your Art series rehab! Your doing a great job of explaining the repairs, keep it up.


Good luck and thank you for this one!


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## Sean Morrison

I'm working on repairing an A600 (not .2) that blows fuses immediately upon applying remote turn on power. Upon initial inspection a few of the power supply fets had their plastic casings cracked open. I replaced all 8 of them and it still blew fuses and cracked a few of the replacement fets. I then went back in and found one of the 2 legged rectifiers was bad and for good measure replaced all 4 of those. 

I haven't tried powering it up yet with the new parts because I wanted to see if there is anything else I should be looking at. I didn't measure any shorted output transistors which is what I would have suspected to be the cause. I am measuring really low resistance across a couple legs on both the Q17 and Q25 transistors. These are a couple of real small standing up barrel shaped devices near the center of the board but closer to the power supply end. 

Does anyone have a schematic I could use to trace how these two (Q17 and Q25) tie in?


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## Mike_Dee

Excellent tutorial! I haven't found the always having to replace capacitors after 5 years to be true. I think it has a lot to do with the quality of the capacitors originally installed. I too, am a collector of old school Linear Power amplifiers, and after years of service I haven't noticed any degradation of sound, or output. High quality capacitors from manufacturers like Nichicon, Rubycon, Elna, Sprague, or Panasonic (all made in Japan as opposed to China) may be the difference. I've only replaced power supply caps on one of my LP amps, more as a maintenance item than them failing. 

Just my two cents.


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## Darth SQ

Sean Morrison said:


> I'm working on repairing an A600 (not .2) that blows fuses immediately upon applying remote turn on power. Upon initial inspection a few of the power supply fets had their plastic casings cracked open. I replaced all 8 of them and it still blew fuses and cracked a few of the replacement fets. I then went back in and found one of the 2 legged rectifiers was bad and for good measure replaced all 4 of those.
> 
> I haven't tried powering it up yet with the new parts because I wanted to see if there is anything else I should be looking at. I didn't measure any shorted output transistors which is what I would have suspected to be the cause. I am measuring really low resistance across a couple legs on both the Q17 and Q25 transistors. These are a couple of real small standing up barrel shaped devices near the center of the board but closer to the power supply end.
> 
> Does anyone have a schematic I could use to trace how these two (Q17 and Q25) tie in?


I sent "The Stig your question, and here's his response:


I have had to replace the PWM control chip at times due to a failure of this sort. Any transistor reading short in circuit needs to be pulled and tested again out of circuit. if still shorted they are bad and of course must be replaced. A posted pic of the transistors he is talking about will tell me all I need to know to clarify their purpose and use in the amp so there will be no second guessing. Please have him post a pic and I will share info about the transistors in question.

Bad diodes were a very rare failure issue, due to the huge amount of current draw required to kill them. but it could cause the symptoms he is describing. Hope he has not missed any blown outputs and lower rail regulators. This PPI like ALL PPI's require the base to be re-installed before testing or alternate clamps made to hold the devices in contact with the sink properly. And a current controlled power source would have saved his last efforts of fet replacement. This amp only requires a 5 amp supply to turn on properly and only 2 amps to idle properly at any bias level. A car head light can be used in circuit as a current limit along with a simple 5 amp fuse to prevent and further damage as testing and repair progress's. 

link me if he posts a pic or two....and yes I am feeling better thanks for caring....regards "The Stig"

Hope that helps.
I will link him with your pics once you post them.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Mike_Dee said:


> Excellent tutorial! I haven't found the always having to replace capacitors after 5 years to be true. I think it has a lot to do with the quality of the capacitors originally installed. I too, am a collector of old school Linear Power amplifiers, and after years of service I haven't noticed any degradation of sound, or output. High quality capacitors from manufacturers like Nichicon, Rubycon, Elna, Sprague, or Panasonic (all made in Japan as opposed to China) may be the difference. I've only replaced power supply caps on one of my LP amps, more as a maintenance item than them failing.
> 
> Just my two cents.


Glad you enjoyed it.
BTW, the 5 years for capacitors applies to "shelf life".
Meaning, they last longer if they're used regularly.
They don't do well resting for long periods of time.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Finally, I have both the A300.2 and the A600.2 back from repairs.

Let's start with the A300.2.
I paid $130.00 for the amplifier.

The amp came to me looking cosmetically very good but had an aftermarket fuse in it so I knew there was going to be more to this repair than the usual.
The first thing The Stig found out during pretesting is that it was way out of balance and operation was sketchy.
I'm jumping ahead here but the final outcome is that at one time or likely many times, this amp got extremely hot resulting in internal damage to the components.
Also it had inferior aftermarket ST micro transistors and mismatched power fets so someone had been inside her for repairs before.

A300.2 prior to repairs









As usual, the heatsink was thoroughly cleaned and kapton taped









All caps were replaced with the same upgraded Panasonic FC electrolytic caps just like the A100.2s


















Mismatched power fets









Power fets removed and the board cleaned up of excess solder









Tech gain matching the npn and pnp fets-calling it tedious would be an understatement


















Final matched power fet sets









Power fets installed









Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

The next stage of testing revealed that the outputs came up at different rates.
Testing revealed some came on full output when others were at 1/3 indicating hairline fractures in some of them from severe over-temperature conditions.

Tech gain matched and replaced all 16 outputs


















Ground upgrade using a loop connector head









Transistors replaced









Testing after all parts replaced











After testing, it became apparent that the sip boards also took a hit from the prior severe overheating causing the dc offset and bias to drift.
However, after final adjustments and an overnight burn in, the drift became manageable eliminating the need to replace the out of production sip boards.

Sip boards









Amplifier (left) after repairs with all the replaced parts



























All replaced parts









I have since replaced the aftermarket fuse with an original PPI fuse.
Amp is now back to new operating condition.
It's putting out 77 watts per channel 4ohms stereo and 273 watts at 4ohms bridged mono (specifications 75 watts per channel 4ohm stereo, and 300 watts per channel 4ohms bridged mono.

I will be posting another A300.2 in the near future.
However, next up will be the A600.2 in the next day or so.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## starboy869

love the work going into these


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## Darth SQ

starboy869 said:


> love the work going into these


Thanks Chris,
It's a labor of love.
I'm committed to getting them up to full speed so I won't have to worry about them during day to day usage.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Time to post the A600.2 repairs.
I paid $85.00 for it which included another A600.2 with a stripped bare heatsink and a circuit board with missing parts.
I knew it was going to require some extensive work since it was DOA which was disclosed to me by the seller.
He also told me that someone prior to him had attempted some repairs to no avail.
Well, The Stig was able to bring it back to life without too much difficulty.

Here's the step by step:

Amplifier prior to repairs (right side amp)









Heatsink after cleaning









Heatsink after kapton tape installed









Backside of circuit board after removal









Ridiculous amounts of thermal grease from the factory









Missing PNP fet









All PNP and NPN fets replaced


















Really bad solder work from previous repair


















Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

RCA ground current limit resistor failed









RCA ground current limit resistor replaced









Burnt output snubber filter resistor-notice the board damage









Output snubber filter resistor replaced and board repaired









Loose gain pot along with the old burnt output snubber filter resistor removed and it's brand new replacement









Gain pot replaced with the one from my extra A600.2 circuit board









All capacitors prior to replacement









All capacitors replaced with the same upgraded units in the previous amp repairs









Custom clamping rails made by The Stig to test the amplifer with the back cover removed.
Without them the all the fets would quickly overheat and burn out within minutes.


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## Darth SQ

Ground strap upgrade done again









Amplifier testing after all repairs and upgrades were performed









The Stig's testing procedure pics









Checking dc offset and bias


















Completed amplifier and it's replaced parts









Proper backing plate screw tension-note that it's done with the side plates removed




































Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Amplifier completed









Close up of all parts replaced minus the gain pot









Fuse was replaced because full output bridged testing exceeded it's rating.
The amp pulls some serious amperage!


















I have since replaced the 50 amp fuse with an original PPI 80 amp fuse with The Stig's blessing to make sure it doesn't happen again.

The A600.2 is now back to new operating condition.
It's putting out 173 watts per channel 4ohms stereo and 566 watts at 4ohms bridged mono (specifications 150 watts per channel 4ohm stereo, and 600 watts per channel 4ohms bridged mono).

Next up will be the Ax606.2, A1200.2 and another A300.2.
And then that will wrap up this thread. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## RiLoWa

This is a great run down but I have a few questions.


PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> RCA ground current limit resistor failed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RCA ground current limit resistor replaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Burnt output snubber filter resistor-notice the board damage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Output snubber filter resistor replaced and board repaired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears your tech did not install these resistors with slightly more clearance above the board to help prevent them from burning the board like the original one did, if so why?
> 
> 
> All capacitors prior to replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All capacitors replaced with the same upgraded units in the previous amp repairs


Is there a specific reason he uses such wide Kapton film?

Why are the 300.2 and 600.2 not making rated power when bridged?


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## Darth SQ

RiLoWa said:


> This is a great run down but I have a few questions.
> 
> 
> Is there a specific reason he uses such wide Kapton film?
> 
> Why are the 300.2 and 600.2 not making rated power when bridged?


1st question-I believe I answered this question prior but here it is again.
As per the opinion of The Stig, there's no real difference between using 1" and 2" kapton tape other than preference.
It's just his choice for these amps.

2nd question-Because I am stupid and posted the wrong picture. 
Here's the right pic after the repair (see red arrow pointing to it).
Note the bright fresh color of the new resistor.









3rd question-They don't always reach rated *full* power because that's how they are.
But it's never more than 10% below rated.
However, you will notice that it puts out more than rated at 4ohms stereo.

Hope that helps and thank you for pointing out my pic mistake.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## RiLoWa

1. Sorry, I must have missed that somewhere.

2. Very nice, that is top notch.

3. Interesting, I would have thought the A600.2 would at least make the bridged rating considering it is 15% over in stereo.

These amps are in good hands.


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## starboy869

The Art Series amps were never made more than rated power bridged. One of my old CA&E puts an A600.2 at 603wrmsx1 at 4 ohms. If the amp does 597wrms or 604wrms your not going to notice th missing 7wrms of power. 

However power isn't everything. I would take an old school A300.2 over a newer BOSS 1000w amp any day.


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## Darth SQ

RiLoWa said:


> 1. Sorry, I must have missed that somewhere.
> 
> 2. Very nice, that is top notch.
> 
> 3. Interesting, I would have thought the A600.2 would at least make the bridged rating considering it is 15% over in stereo.
> 
> These amps are in good hands.


Thanks. 

The whole PPI Art reconditioning project has been an amazing learning experience for me regarding the internals of these beauties.
And as I always do once something has my attention, I've been sponging up all the knowledge that The Stig wants to pass on.

I would love to see pics of the Arts you have.
Please feel free to post them here so all "us" fans can see them.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

The Stig would like to add his thoughts to the below rated wattage specifications discussion so here it is:

_Black board ohms law does not always work out in the real world. The power in versus the power out just below clipping level and amplifier overall efficiency do not lie. PPI used tightly regulated power supplies. They were one of a hand full to do this, while most others used un-regulated power supplies. PPI amps in a stock auto with a stock 12 volt system can often sound better then unregulated amps do due to the poor 12 volt power issues a stock vehicle can have. PPI made this engineering choice long ago just like other car amp companies. The debate of whom is right still rages on even today some 20+ years after the fact.
Regulated power supplies don't always perform in a linear manner as load demands change. This and PPI's own admission that they had power issues back when these were built seems to agree with each other. I could explain how the power supply and its noise reduction filtering inductor might be to blame but that is a long winded tale of how a inductor designed to work at 4 ohm power levels and spec's does not fare well at 2 ohm load levels due to the double current demand across its core material and windings. Inductors are usually fine tuned to a high Q filtering function and this does not handle big changes like double current draw at lower ohm loads. Basically inductors are tuned very tightly to cancel noise, and broad changes like jumping to double power factors thru the windings can push them slightly off tune due to the High Q they were set at for 4 ohms. Other cars amps even some class D amps lose their High Q filter due to impedance changes. On class D amps this means that some of the switching noise artifacts can appear at the speaker and your ears, as D amps use their filter to remove all the switching hash noise of the power devices being switched on and off at ultra-high frequency levels. This can appear as fuzz on the music at the speaker, and can result in blown speakers due to excessive voice coil heating issues and what not.
PG built the M series car amps and they did not double power into 2 ohm loads either and so did some Sony and Alpine amps, and a bunch of others. On the M-44 it went from 40 per at 4 ohms to 60 per at 2 ohms clearly not a true doubling of output power just because you move form 4 ohms to 2 ohms like Ohms law would indicate, and it all has to do with the power supply design not the audio amp....hope this is clearer then mud and only half as confusing....
The Stig_

Thanks Stig!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## RiLoWa

I posted a group photo in the PPI Club a few days ago because I was sure it would be much more appreciated there compared to the old school show off thread that has buried it miles deep now. Check them out. I'm sure it isn't as big or diverse as yours.

Well explained and exactly the answer to my curiosity. I believe that I would let your Tech touch my amps and please don't take it that I am being a snob, I am just very touchy about who would lay eyes on them let alone actually touch them. And the thought of somebody inside of them makes me cringe like they're raping my sister. (Not really, but you get the point I don't even have a sister) You all have seen the disasters sold on ebay represented as mint. I need somebody to push me over the fence and convince me the hymen isn't very valuable anymore, and get those caps replaced.


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## Darth SQ

RiLoWa said:


> I posted a group photo in the PPI Club a few days ago because I was sure it would be much more appreciated there compared to the old school show off thread that has buried it miles deep now. Check them out. I'm sure it isn't as big or diverse as yours.
> 
> Well explained and exactly the answer to my curiosity. I believe that I would let your Tech touch my amps and please don't take it that I am being a snob, I am just very touchy about who would lay eyes on them let alone actually touch them. And the thought of somebody inside of them makes me cringe like they're raping my sister. (Not really, but you get the point I don't even have a sister) You all have seen the disasters sold on ebay represented as mint. I need somebody to push me over the fence and convince me the hymen isn't very valuable anymore, and get those caps replaced.


The Arts are all a minimum of 15 years old now.
If that doesn't push you over the edge , I don't know what will.
It's not worth taking a chance at losing a board.
Just make sure you take pics of the seal prior and during the back coverplate removal.
That's what I did.
Pictures will always preserve the fact that it was a virgin.
I will look in my PPI club for your pics.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## starboy869

I should post a pic of a warranty sealed proart100 I have. 

Let's say 16 inputs cap bubbled, and a few other what's left of a cap.


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## Ampman

Got a question, I have two PPI PC2350's an a PC2150 I need a little assistance with setting the bias and DC offset to the rite levels knowing which pots do what will be a big help and what's the current draw for the outputs suppose to be at Class B thanks in advance for any help.


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## PPI_GUY

Any hints on what "The Stig" uses to cleanup all that thermal grease?
Also, how does he find time to do such detailed and thorough work on your amps AND fulfill his assignments on Top Gear?


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## Darth SQ

Ampman said:


> Got a question, I have two PPI PC2350's an a PC2150 I need a little assistance with setting the bias and DC offset to the rite levels knowing which pots do what will be a big help and what's the current draw for the outputs suppose to be at Class B thanks in advance for any help.


I would recommend pming Aaron (Envisionelec).
He's done those before. 
My niche is the Art .2s.
Good luck with the repairs!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

PPI_GUY said:


> Any hints on what "The Stig" uses to cleanup all that thermal grease?
> Also, how does he find time to do such detailed and thorough work on your amps AND fulfill his assignments on Top Gear?


Mark,
I will have to ask him.
He told me before how he cleaned them but I have forgotten.
I know he's been dreading cleaning up the 24" long Ax606.2 and A1200.2.
The Stig has been very clear on how they will be extra $$$ to do that. 

You caught the Stig reference.
I was wondering if someone would get it.
I loved Top Gear America!
I thought it was a great show.
No idea if it will be coming back.
I think it's been cancelled. :mean:

I'll post the answer when I get it.
Thanks for following the thread!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> I would recommend pming Aaron (Envisionelec).
> He's done those before.
> My niche is the Art .2s.
> Good luck with the repairs!
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Ok thanks


----------



## envisionelec

PPI_GUY said:


> Any hints on what "The Stig" uses to cleanup all that thermal grease?
> Also, how does he find time to do such detailed and thorough work on your amps AND fulfill his assignments on Top Gear?



Not speaking for "The Stig", but here's what I doooo.

It's a pure PITA. I have a big photographic tray with 99% pure isopropanol that I let the components sit/hover in. I absolutely refuse to let any PPI amp sit in its own poop (lol), especially if it's got all kinds of dirt, soot and other crap stuck in it. The tray is set up so that the PCB just skims the surface of the alcohol and the transistors are likewise soaking. Then you go at it with the wooden ends of cleaning swabs, Q-tips and the occasional mini-spatula. Wearing gloves, of course. When it's done, I drain the pan through a filter and recycle. I've never thought to take pictures of the process, but I've been (recently) encouraged to do so. Next time, Gadget....next time.


----------



## deeppinkdiver

envisionelec said:


> Not speaking for "The Stig", but here's what I doooo.
> 
> It's a pure PITA. I have a big photographic tray with 99% pure isopropanol that I let the components sit/hover in. I absolutely refuse to let any PPI amp sit in its own poop (lol), especially if it's got all kinds of dirt, soot and other crap stuck in it. The tray is set up so that the PCB just skims the surface of the alcohol and the transistors are likewise soaking. Then you go at it with the wooden ends of cleaning swabs, Q-tips and the occasional mini-spatula. Wearing gloves, of course. When it's done, I drain the pan through a filter and recycle. I've never thought to take pictures of the process, but I've been (recently) encouraged to do so. Next time, Gadget....next time.


Aaron, are you saying you have a tray big enough to hold any PPI art amp? ( I have a big photographic tray ) I might wanna give mine a bath one day. Hell, I have a couple A1200.2 and a A606.2 as well. Ironic.

Sounds like an in depth process no matter what the size of the amp!


----------



## BumpaD_Z28

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Glad you enjoyed it.
> BTW, the 5 years for capacitors applies to "shelf life".
> Meaning, they last longer if they're used regularly.
> They don't do well resting for long periods of time.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


This thread is awesome ! PPI art's are my favorite amp of all time  I used too have a small heatsink keychain that I wore on a ball chain around my neck for years ! Until it got lost 

I have a A404.2 in my P/U that is used 5/7 days a week, do I need to worry about any preventative matainance on it ?
I do have a 1.? Farad capacitor located right before the input power wire ... Which may or may not help, but that's a different disscusion 









~DaVe


----------



## Darth SQ

PPI_GUY said:


> Any hints on what "The Stig" uses to cleanup all that thermal grease?
> Also, how does he find time to do such detailed and thorough work on your amps AND fulfill his assignments on Top Gear?


Mark,
The Stig has answered your question and also the question of what kind of kapton tape type was used in these amplifiers.
Hope this helps you out!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR

Cleaning The Heatsink

Yes I use acetone to degrease the silicon compounds and then a final rinse off with high grade denatured alcohol to remove the film acetone leaves, and any water present is also displaced by the alcohol. I use clean room rated lint free towels for the final wipe down. A bit pricey but worth it. No lint and debris are left behind. Then the suface is cleaned, degreased, and ready for the kapton tape to be applied and heat bonded with a hot air rework wand and a roller to push out any air pockets underneath the Kapton insulator. 

Type of Kapton Tape

Kapton is a registered trademark of the E.I. Dupont Company. A simple internet search will fill anyones needs of info about this material. I will tell you its just like the Kapton used by Orion. only it is 2 mils thick. 1 mil is available but I did not use it in this application. The Kapton I used is substantially thinner then the Mica insulator it replaced. You can find this material just by doing a internet search. It is rugged, durable, and chemical resistant while still being flexible enough to allow for some deformation under compression < Mica does none of these things >.

The Stig


----------



## starboy869

That 1 fd isnt hurting things, nor really helping. I rather use 1fd as a noise filter than anything else. My cap bank build for my setup is 15600fd which is 7 super caps in series, but that's another story. 

Best thing is to pull off the back and inspect the caps really. Remember the amp is pushing 15+years old and the oils inside them dry up, etc., 


I was going to take one of my amps and give her a wash in the parts cleaner at work and a bath in alcohol afterwards. Mainly the film that water leaves behind causes corrosion.


----------



## envisionelec

deeppinkdiver said:


> Aaron, are you saying you have a tray big enough to hold any PPI art amp? ( I have a big photographic tray ) I might wanna give mine a bath one day. Hell, I have a couple A1200.2 and a A606.2 as well. Ironic.
> 
> Sounds like an in depth process no matter what the size of the amp!


Nope, the long ones (A1200.x and 2350DM) need two "dips". Everything else fits.


----------



## iwanaleya

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Mark,
> I will have to ask him.
> He told me before how he cleaned them but I have forgotten.
> I know he's been dreading cleaning up the 24" long Ax606.2 and A1200.2.
> The Stig has been very clear on how they will be extra $$$ to do that.
> 
> You caught the Stig reference.
> I was wondering if someone would get it.
> I loved Top Gear America!
> I thought it was a great show.
> No idea if it will be coming back.
> I think it's been cancelled. :mean:
> 
> I'll post the answer when I get it.
> Thanks for following the thread!
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


 If you loved Top Gear America then you need to watch the original UK version! As an avid UK version watcher I was a little disappointed with the US attempt, but still found it a good watch and hope it will be back for another season. 

And I must say as someone who has 2 probably 3 Black virgin A300's that were passed to me around '03, I am totally jealous of the care and attention you are providing yours! I know one is shot yet I absolutely refuse to open it up myself for some reason, I too have been searching and refuse to take them to someone local on a whim regardless of many friends recommendations. Still holding out trying to find that one who will treat these babies the way I know they deserve to be treated ;-). 

I've read this thread 4 times already in the last 30 or so minutes and plan on re-reading and await your last set of updates!

Brian


----------



## Darth SQ

iwanaleya said:


> If you loved Top Gear America then you need to watch the original UK version! As an avid UK version watcher I was a little disappointed with the US attempt, but still found it a good watch and hope it will be back for another season.
> 
> And I must say as someone who has 2 probably 3 Black virgin A300's that were passed to me around '03, I am totally jealous of the care and attention you are providing yours! I know one is shot yet I absolutely refuse to open it up myself for some reason, I too have been searching and refuse to take them to someone local on a whim regardless of many friends recommendations. Still holding out trying to find that one who will treat these babies the way I know they deserve to be treated ;-).
> 
> I've read this thread 4 times already in the last 30 or so minutes and plan on re-reading and await your last set of updates!
> 
> Brian


Thanks Brian.
I appreciate your words.
I hope you find someone to get them back up to speed. 
You're right regarding finding someone close.
Elk Grove is practically Sacramento and I couldn't find anyone even remotely close to you and I.

I should have the last three amps back by February and that should wrap up all of them; at least I hope so.
I had my eye on this A404.2, but that's another story.

Happy New Year!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## eisnerracing

i have a bad A600 black if you would like and i will ship - PARTS
let me know


----------



## DJSPANKY

I love this thread. Good to see I'm not the only one who is overly caring about my old PPI amps.

I also have some PPI amps that needs some repair efforts- similar to what is shown in this thread. Since we don't know who the "Stig" is- does anyone know where I can get my amps repaired? I have (4) amps that I need repaired, and (2) that I might have refurbished. They are not all PPI amps.

Bret- is the "Stig" available to repair other peoples amps- assuming his prices and identy are kept confident?

Thanks
DJSPANKY


----------



## mittiinagus

DJSPANKY said:


> I love this thread. Good to see I'm not the only one who is overly caring about my old PPI amps.
> 
> I also have some PPI amps that needs some repair efforts- similar to what is shown in this thread. Since we don't know who the "Stig" is- does anyone know where I can get my amps repaired? I have (4) amps that I need repaired, and (2) that I might have refurbished. They are not all PPI amps.
> 
> Bret- is the "Stig" available to repair other peoples amps- assuming his prices and identy are kept confident?
> 
> Thanks
> DJSPANKY


Look at the post above yours...

Tin


----------



## Darth SQ

DJSPANKY said:


> Bret- is the "Stig" available to repair other peoples amps- assuming his prices and identy are kept confident?
> 
> Thanks
> DJSPANKY


Sadly no he isn't.
But he was kind enough to allow me to use his repair pics and pointers to help all of us on DIYMA understand just what's involved regarding old school amps.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## astrochex

iwanaleya said:


> If you loved Top Gear America then you need to watch the original UK version! As an avid UK version watcher I was a little disappointed with the US attempt, but still found it a good watch and hope it will be back for another season.
> 
> And I must say as someone who has 2 probably 3 Black virgin A300's that were passed to me around '03, I am totally jealous of the care and attention you are providing yours! I know one is shot yet I absolutely refuse to open it up myself for some reason, I too have been searching and refuse to take them to someone local on a whim regardless of many friends recommendations. Still holding out trying to find that one who will treat these babies the way I know they deserve to be treated ;-).
> 
> I've read this thread 4 times already in the last 30 or so minutes and plan on re-reading and await your last set of updates!
> 
> Brian


continued OT..... I enjoyed ATG as well. My dad and I were fortunate to attend a live taping at Marine base. It was fun to watch the episode and reflect on my 3 seconds of fame in front of the camera.

Brett, what are you going to play when you finally have your system in place?


----------



## Darth SQ

astrochex said:


> continued OT..... I enjoyed ATG as well. My dad and I were fortunate to attend a live taping at Marine base. It was fun to watch the episode and reflect on my 3 seconds of fame in front of the camera.
> 
> Brett, what are you going to play when you finally have your system in place?


Damn that's a tough one.

I'm a huge 80's hair band fanatic so I am sure most of it will be including all my favorites from the Hollywood scene.

The politically correct answer would be everything I own from AtoZ.

But the real question is, once everything is done and dialed in, what will be the 1st song, singer, I listen to?

I just still don't know. 

I want it to be all about sq so my answer as of right now might surprise you.

The top five choices *right now* would be:

1-Anderson, Buford, Wateman, and Howe (self titled) aka Yes.
2-Barbara Streisand-anything from the late 70's-80's.
3-Car Audio Nationals test cd from the 80's if I can ever find a copy.
4-Anything released by Don Dorsey-Bachbusters, Beethoven Or Bust, or Time Warp
5-Anything by Lea Michele from Glee.

I reserve the right to change the list at anytime. 
Thanks for asking.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

Hey bret, wonderful things you are doing to these amps. I like looking at all the stuff you are getting done with these amps. I was looking at ebay and saw some art shells that look prefect!! Not to sound gay or anything, but when I saw them I thought of you and wondered if you had seen them.

Precision Power Art Series A300.2 White Heat Sink Only Used Display MINT NIB | eBay
Precision Power Art Series A404.2 White Needs Easy Repair | eBay

Thanks
Justind


----------



## Darth SQ

vwguy383 said:


> Hey bret, wonderful things you are doing to these amps. I like looking at all the stuff you are getting done with these amps. I was looking at ebay and saw some art shells that look prefect!! Not to sound gay or anything, but when I saw them I thought of you and wondered if you had seen them.
> 
> Precision Power Art Series A300.2 White Heat Sink Only Used Display MINT NIB | eBay
> Precision Power Art Series A404.2 White Needs Easy Repair | eBay
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


Justind,
Thanks for the head's up.
They already have my attention. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## emrliquidlife

Did I just see Anderson Buford Wakeman Howe?

Ohhh man, I would have never thought I'd see that reference. 

I used "The meeting" as my wedding dance to my first wife. I was jamming that disc in highschool. I'm a Yes fan, and have seen them a number of times. Sometimes, the music seemed to go off direction, but I always find a gem on the discs.

I have some PC series amps. A 2300 and a 4400. I know they are nowhere near the value of the art series, but boy do I love those amps. I actually archived the 4400 in the thought of preserving it, but I guess I should pull it out and use it.


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Justind,
> Thanks for the head's up.
> They already have my attention.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


I figured you'd had your eye on them, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to let you know just in case. Keep up the good work and when are you going to have more updates?

Later
Justind


----------



## Darth SQ

vwguy383 said:


> I figured you'd had your eye on them, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to let you know just in case. Keep up the good work and when are you going to have more updates?
> 
> Later
> Justind


Hopefully by the end of this month.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Coolest thread ever..


----------



## Darth SQ

Well it looks like we'll get to see an A404.2 reconditioned as well.

Precision Power Art Series A404.2 White Needs Easy Repair | eBay

MINE! 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## WhiteLX

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Well it looks like we'll get to see an A404.2 reconditioned as well.
> 
> Precision Power Art Series A404.2 White Needs Easy Repair | eBay
> 
> MINE!
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


I can't wait to see the results.  I've got an A404.2 sitting in the closet waiting for me to find time to install it along with the rest fo the equipment.

BTW, what is the difference between the std and the .2s? (example: A404 vs A404.2)


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Well it looks like we'll get to see an A404.2 reconditioned as well.
> 
> Precision Power Art Series A404.2 White Needs Easy Repair | eBay
> 
> MINE!
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Sweet!!!! Glad you were able to pick one of those up!! can't wait to see it come back to life again.

Later
Justind


----------



## Darth SQ

WhiteLX said:


> I can't wait to see the results.  I've got an A404.2 sitting in the closet waiting for me to find time to install it along with the rest fo the equipment.
> 
> BTW, what is the difference between the std and the .2s? (example: A404 vs A404.2)


The .2 had the much improved power supply, noise gate technology, and the improved color graphics.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> The .2 had the much improved power supply, noise gate technology, and the improved color graphics.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Bret, I definitely like the .2 graphics then the original ones, way better colors!! One other thing I wanted to ask was how many different versions were on the amps. 

Thanks
Justind


----------



## Darth SQ

vwguy383 said:


> Bret, I definitely like the .2 graphics then the original ones, way better colors!! One other thing I wanted to ask was how many different versions were on the amps.
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


Can you be more specific regarding your question?
Or maybe give an example?
Thanks!

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Can you be more specific regarding your question?
> Or maybe give an example?
> Thanks!
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Like on any giving amp, or lets just say the 404.2 that you just picked up. How many different designs are on there? or is there only one design "art" on one amp?

Thanks
Justind


----------



## starboy869

there was the a404 and the a404.2

both came in white with art, black with circuit board, and whatever custom ordered from ppi.


----------



## Darth SQ

starboy869 said:


> there was the a404 and the a404.2
> 
> both came in white with art, black with circuit board, and whatever custom ordered from ppi.


What Chris said.

The graphic designs only changed between models so each specific model got only one graphic design.
And then of course, the changes made to enhance the grahpics on the 1996 
.2 models.
Exceptions come regarding special orders just like Chris said here.
Hope that helps.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## emak212

Thanks for the info on the schematic. Keep us updated if you hear back! In the meantime I've found a very helpful tutorial on a repair/restoration of an older PPI amp with a bad output transistor. Aaron told me this is usually the problem for these older PPIs.

dB-r Electronics

I'm going to try my local repair woman first, but if she can't help me I definitely plan on contacting the guys at DB-R. They seem to know what they're doing.

-Everett


----------



## Darth SQ

emak212 said:


> Thanks for the info on the schematic. Keep us updated if you hear back! In the meantime I've found a very helpful tutorial on a repair/restoration of an older PPI amp with a bad output transistor. Aaron told me this is usually the problem for these older PPIs.
> 
> dB-r Electronics
> 
> I'm going to try my local repair woman first, but if she can't help me I definitely plan on contacting the guys at DB-R. They seem to know what they're doing.
> 
> -Everett


I don't know why dbr still posts that page.
They refuse to work on these amps.
Plus, you might want to read this thread first; it's a real eye opener.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ons/113368-warning-db-r-customer-service.html

No chance they'll work on anything I own.
I wouldn't even let them work on my wife's vibrator. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Maybe some of you might look into contacting Perry Babin over at diyaudio.com.

I've heard good things about him.
I think Jax sends his amps to him.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## ahardb0dy

I e-mailed DB-R already they replied they don't work on these old amps anymore


----------



## Prime mova

^^^Seeing that Bret ventured into diyaudio territory, I think it's only fair if you knew what the tech's there think of PPI :toilet::toilet:

late 90s PPI amps had a huge design flaw...

PPI i was surprised never left the prehistoric...

I used to work for PPI and MTX amp factories here in south Phoenix AZ in late 90s and I was able to get palet load of bad PPI...

Rockford Fosgate has been in the game for along time and in my opinion were always ahead of the rest in technology. 

diyaudio thread quotes originated from: The Best The Worst And Why - diyAudio My favorate thread of all time :rockon:


----------



## Darth SQ

Just a little taste of the A1200.2 reconditioning project.
This is what you have to do to reinforce a warped backing plate.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Just a little taste of the A1200.2 reconditioning project.
> This is what you have to do to reinforce a warped backing plate.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR



WOW bret that is some major reinforcing!! to me it just seems like the whole backing plate to hold those things down wasnt a very good design. Did you ever consider just screwing down the FET's and stuff with plates or one a piece?

Thanks
Justind


----------



## Darth SQ

vwguy383 said:


> WOW bret that is some major reinforcing!! to me it just seems like the whole backing plate to hold those things down wasnt a very good design. Did you ever consider just screwing down the FET's and stuff with plates or one a piece?
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


Good thinking Justind!

Your solution is exactly how The Stig bench tests all my Art amps with the backing plates off.
However, what The Stig has accomplished here is a solution that won't show when assembled and didn't require any cutting or clearancing on the heatsink or backing plate.

And for the record in case any of you have a similar problem, the optimal square tubing size is 7/8".

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Prime mova said:


> ^^^Seeing that Bret ventured into diyaudio territory, I think it's only fair if you knew what the tech's there think of PPI :toilet::toilet:
> 
> late 90s PPI amps had a huge design flaw...
> 
> PPI i was surprised never left the prehistoric...
> 
> I used to work for PPI and MTX amp factories here in south Phoenix AZ in late 90s and I was able to get palet load of bad PPI...
> 
> Rockford Fosgate has been in the game for along time and in my opinion were always ahead of the rest in technology.
> 
> diyaudio thread quotes originated from: The Best The Worst And Why - diyAudio My favorate thread of all time :rockon:


When you read the thread about the PPIs, he's referring to the Sedona series having the problems you've listed above as does Perry Babin in his responses.
I couldn't find a direct reference to the Arts anywhere.
Thanks for the interesting link though. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Good thinking Justind!
> 
> Your solution is exactly how The Stig bench tests all my Art amps with the backing plates off.
> However, what The Stig has accomplished here is a solution that won't show when assembled and didn't require any cutting or clearancing on the heatsink or backing plate.
> 
> And for the record in case any of you have a similar problem, the optimal square tubing size is 7/8".
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


To me it just seems like it would be better to make it a permanent solution. I think that there would be a greater chance of failure or one of them not having the same pressure as the other FET's and failing.

Thanks
Justind


----------



## rexroadj

Jeez Bret...........
Why on earth would anyone want or care about restoring/fixing those old, ugly, outdated, and overpriced relics???????? What a waste!!!!!











J/K  
FYI- Mike's guy (JAX) is GREAT!!!! Used him a few times myself...VERY fair, honest.....and well.....BLUNT! But good!


----------



## Darth SQ

Blunt is good.
Blunt keeps things clear.

Speaking of blunt, did you paint that root beer brown Jeep yet? :surprised:

(j/k) <---my turn 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

vwguy383 said:


> To me it just seems like it would be better to make it a permanent solution. I think that there would be a greater chance of failure or one of them not having the same pressure as the other FET's and failing.
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


The Stig assures me it's absolutely even across both rails the full 24".
Also, I just don't want to cut up a super rare A1200.2 that's in 10/10 visual condition.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## WhiteLX

How warm should a 404.2 run under moderate volume running fronts at 4 ohm each and the rear at 4 ohm bridged? While bench testing mine was running about 98 degrees at the hottest point on the outside of the heat sink. Room temperature was about 65-70 degrees with no direct airflow onto the amp (just sitting on my workbench).

It's never been opened and ran fine for the 30 or so minutes I was testing it. Battery voltage was 11.85v.


----------



## Darth SQ

WhiteLX said:


> How warm should a 404.2 run under moderate volume running fronts at 4 ohm each and the rear at 4 ohm bridged? While bench testing mine was running about 98 degrees at the hottest point on the outside of the heat sink. Room temperature was about 65-70 degrees with no direct airflow onto the amp (just sitting on my workbench).
> 
> It's never been opened and ran fine for the 30 or so minutes I was testing it. Battery voltage was 11.85v.


What does it run at a just under clipping?

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## WhiteLX

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> What does it run at a just under clipping?
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


No idea, I didn't push it to clipping. 

It's going to get installed regardless. I'll just have to deal with it of it runs hot or fails. I'm easy on my equipment, but with electronics this old there's no telling.


----------



## Darth SQ

WhiteLX said:


> No idea, I didn't push it to clipping.
> 
> It's going to get installed regardless. I'll just have to deal with it of it runs hot or fails. I'm easy on my equipment, but with electronics this old there's no telling.


I believe The Stig told me one time these amps do have overheat interrupt circuit (termistor?) that shuts them down when they get too hot but it's still not a good idea to let them get to that point.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## ahardb0dy

Maybe a solution to the tabs on the art series not applying the proper force on the transistors would be a perm. fix such as this:


----------



## WhiteLX

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> I believe The Stig told me one time these amps do have overheat interrupt circuit (termistor?) that shuts them down when they get too hot but it's still not a good idea to let them get to that point.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


At what point are they too hot? Is there a specific temperature? I have an IR temp gun that I can check with once I get it installed.


----------



## Darth SQ

WhiteLX said:


> At what point are they too hot? Is there a specific temperature? I have an IR temp gun that I can check with once I get it installed.


I will see if I can find out for you. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## vwguy383

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> As he has said before in this thread.
> That's not going to happen.
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Thats not very nice! 

Here is a link for replacing caps on some older phoenix gold amps. In this link he recommends Nichicon for replacements. But there are plenty of good brands out there. digi-key is a good place to get them. I have ordered a few from there.

Leaking Phoenix Gold Capacitor Replacement Tutorial

Good luck
Justin


----------



## ahardb0dy

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> As he has said before in this thread.
> That's not going to happen.
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


10-4

won't bring it up again, thanks


----------



## richiec77

Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor is a place I usually get my component level stuff from. They have pretty much everything there that you would need to do this work. Maybe not the exact PNP and NPN Transistors. But damn near everything else. 

Also, usually boards are sealed with conformal coating. You can purchase large spray cans but that's not really needed unless you're doing a large area or working with something like waterproofing a Motherboard prior to sub-ambient cool which will cause condensation. 

They sell smaller Pens types and some small bottles. You can use clear nail polish as a good substitute.


----------



## Turtl3Sh3ll

Hello, Am new here, just received the first of many PPI art series amps  (A600) Where may I acquire the parts needed for replacement for reconditioning; - I see above, but not sure what to search for - the specs and or part numbers, quantity of the components used for repair/replacement? The amp I received seemed to be repaired but does not look like what you have here, will update with photos in the morning to better get an idea of assistance needed. Thank you,

Here are photos of it: (I don't want to unintentionally piggy back this great thread, can I reach you via email instead?) Thanks,


----------



## Darth SQ

Turtl3Sh3ll said:


> Hello, Where may I acquire the parts needed for replacement for reconditioning? Thanks!


I think the post above yours might have the link you're looking for. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## orion250

Another great vintage amp repairman besides "Brett" is Bernie Boland. He used to be one of the 3 owners of Orion Industries in the 80's & 90's when they were still built in the USA. He also owned PPI in the early to mid 80's before creating Orion Industries. He is the one that designed the red HCCA (High Current Competition Amplifier) series amps. I just had him restore AND modify (2) Orion 2150's and (1) 250 HCCA amp for me a couple of weeks ago -- all 3 were from the 1st generation amps. He told me and I didn't know this but the 250 HCCA is only 2ohm stable, unlike the 225 HCCA which can be bridged all the way down to 1/2 ohm. Bernie modified my 250 HCCA so I can bridge it down to 1/2 ohm and still run cool. If anyone needs a great old school tech that will restore your vintage amps, his info is below.

Bernie Boland
480-369-0331
BWBOLAND (on Facebook)



Jim


----------



## orion250

I did not realize that I posted this previously in this thread. And this is not advertising! Look, contact him or don't, it makes no difference to me. Just sharing my experience with the guy and hopefully it will help others looking to get their amps repaired properly as well.


----------



## richiec77

That amp looks like crap! Dude must have spilled the thermal paste on the rails. That stuff got everywhere. Didn't use $0.05 worth of Rubbing alcohol and tech wipe to clean up the flux....wtf. Hard to tell but it looks like he did a basic reflow of a couple solder joints. That's a no-go as you'll end up with a cold-solder joint and it'll fail. Can't believe he by-passed the thermal shunt. 

I've been out of the game a while, but those look like cheap Radio Shack caps. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.)


To the OP of the pics, it's hard to say exactly what you need. The caps and all components could be in good shape and working order. 2 things would be needed prior to answering your questions.
1.) Clean the board up so everything can be seen clearly. (Let me find a link or 2 to some spray on cleaner.)
2.) Once clean, prop up the board and fix some lighting on it to get good detail. Then using a tri-pod or other method to stabilize your camera, take detailed pictures of what you think may need fixing.

OH. Be careful handling the board. Static electricity can take out components. Really....there's a bit involved to component level repair. Honestly it would be best to find someone with the experience and tools to perform this work (no I can't...I don't have the tools, nor time and my experience is rusty)

http://www.amazon.com/QD-Contact-Cleaners-Style-Container/dp/B000BXKZVA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_8cleaner
Rubbing Alcohol like 90% (walgreen, cvs...etc.)
http://www.amazon.com/Tech-Spray-Wi...XTVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336609445&sr=8-1lint free towels.
canned air. 

Figure to just clean this up right, it's going to cost about $30-40. But, this is enough to do 2-3 amps. Maybe more. The only downside to your amp is the outrageous amount of thermal paste used. It's like lithium grease. 



Oh yeah. About thermal paste. Those of you familiar with building a computer and/or did anything with the CPU has seen the same stuff used there. It's thermal conductive compound used to create a good connection between the IC/CPU/FET and the Heatsink. You only need the min amount needed to make the best connection. I have seen both computers and amplifiers (RF, TWTA, Audio) overheat by both too little and too much thermal paste being used. TOO MUCH PASTE acts like a heat barrier. Too little provides little to no conduction and in turn creates an air barrier. 

The above statement is why those of us are going WTF on the over kill of thermal paste.

With CPU and other small devices, you can sometimes increase conduction of by smoothing each surface. aka LAPPING is the term some have seen. Basically polishing/smoothing each surface. This promotes a flatter surface and therefor a greater chance of conduction due to a decrease in air being a factor. (metal to metal is the best, but often impossible to achieve)

Just some FYI for anyone interested. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conduction
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease

notice the amount used. Reference above. (CPU is only 1"x1")








Why it's used.


----------



## Darth SQ

Here's a must read thread for those of you looking to have your old school amps repaired or reconditioned. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-orion-precision-power-amps-need-repairs.html

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Turtl3Sh3ll said:


> Hello, Am new here, just received the first of many PPI art series amps  (A600) Where may I acquire the parts needed for replacement for reconditioning; - I see above, but not sure what to search for - the specs and or part numbers, quantity of the components used for repair/replacement? The amp I received seemed to be repaired but does not look like what you have here, will update with photos in the morning to better get an idea of assistance needed. Thank you,
> 
> Here are photos of it: (I don't want to unintentionally piggy back this great thread, can I reach you via email instead?) Thanks,


Turtl3sh3ll,
The Stig has sent me an e-mail responding to this post:

To Turtl3Sh3ll

May I suggest you use Mouser Electronics to get your replacement caps. I did because they stocked the entire Panasonic FC line and the FC line is about 3 times better then the original Panasonic caps used by PPI just spec wise, plus they are 105C and not 85C, so they usually live longer at high temps like a vintage class AB amp will operate at.

Here are a few parts links to search engines to find whatever you might need:

Octopart - Electronic Parts, Electronic Components, Datasheets

FindChips.com Online Electronic Component Distributor Inventory Search

These links will supply you most any part you might need and have the in stock status and price comparison also at a glance.

Your amp was repaired by a sloppy tech that smeared the silicon grease all over the board for what ever reasons and he did not clean up behind himself. This is fast money tech working for quick money. Fast fast fast and oh so sloppy...very poor.
I suggest you go buy a bristle brush, hogs hair usually, no metal parts please, and use acetone and cotton rags with the brush to clean up the amp before you do too much else though. Also wear gloves if you can, the solvent proof kind so your clean up will not be too hard. Once its cleaned with acetone then use high grade alcohol that does not have fragrances and softeners in it. Most rubbing alcohol is intended to to do just that and be used as rub down for skin and it contains such things as as listed above to prevent skin irritation. Try the local home depot for the alcohol in the paint department. it should be clean enough to use on the second wipe down to remove the haze acetone will leave on the board. Oh acetone and alcohol are used to wipe down the machines that make silicon devices when they are being maintained so you should not go wrong using it here to clean up.

I see the power fets and the control chip were replaced and the rail regulators also which means the tech worked on the amp outside of its sink with power applied, and blew the regulators off the board most likely. Seen this few times from tech's that don't know that you MUST clamp the board back into its sink before applying power to turn on to the amp. The lower rail regulators get very hot very fast and they fail if not clamped to a sink for dissipation of heat build up.

Once you have it cleaned up and what not you can test it once its clamped into it's sink to see if it even turns on. From there you test to see what's wrong with it and decide how far you want to go to bring her back alive...Other then that please follow Bret's thread for ideas and some guidance.
This is likely going to be the last question I answer Bret's thread because he is about to finish it and then most likely will lock it so it stays as it was intended to be a help thread for those wanting to know...

Best regards,

The "Stig"


----------



## richiec77

Although I completely agree with the work I've seen STIG do...I MUST disagree with using Acetone for cleaning for a beginner. Acetone will melt plastic if left on for too long. BUT if you have worked with both materials it's a good one to use. (I do now, but I use to screw stuff up with Acetone until I learned. This amp might not be the one to learn on.) There's too many items on that board with plastic cases that can be damaged by acetone. Would be safer to use Alcohol in the 95%+ range and use the same technique. Spray bottle and alcohol works best since you can spray a smaller area and then work the liquid in to soften and remove.

The painters section at Lowes or Home Depot is a great suggestion. Painters rags are a good substitute to an extent. 

Would suggest getting a good contact cleaner as the pots and other movable devices on the board will need to be cleaned out There's other chemicals in a contact cleaner that helps to remove oxidation from copper and AL. You don't need much since those devices are really small.


----------



## Turtl3Sh3ll

Thank you so much Bret and to the Stig  Very much appreciated! I shall send you a PM once this thread is locked regarding my progress.


----------



## Darth SQ

Good news!
I will be picking up the A1200.2, Ax606.2, A404.2, and my second A300.2 from The Stig tomorrow.
If all goes well, I should be posting the pics and repair details all day Memorial Day.
BTW, he said he tripped the house circuit breaker for his bench testing room loading down the A1200.2 monster. 
Also, I am dropping off my second A600.2, my third A100.2, and an A200.2 for reconditioning and repairs so look for those posts by the end of Summer.
The only amp of the 1996 .2 ART series that I don't own is an A204.2 so if anyone has one with a 9 out of 10 heatsink and artwork, pm me so we can finally say that we went through the entire line up.

Can't wait to see the output results and finally post the details.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## brackac

Who does everyone suggest for reconditioning the paint and art work?


----------



## Darth SQ

I have finally picked up the four amps and have all the information and pics from The Stig to now proceed.

First up is my second A300.2
I bought this amp from another DIYMA member for I think around $120.00.
The heatsink and artwork are in 8 out of 10 condition.
There's some gouging behind the cylinder part but it won't be viewable when installed.
This one went pretty easy compared to the other A300.2.
It got the full clean up, Kapton tape, and new capacitor treatment just like the others.
The only problem with it was the outputs were out of spec and needed replacement.

Here's the pics of the amp reconditioning:

Heatsink top view









Fuse side









Input side









Bottom plate









All the replaced parts including the mica boards









Heatsink cleaned and Kapton taped









Board all cleaned up prior to repairs









Backside of board









Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

New capacitors installed



























Ground modification









Completed board with new outputs









Final testing results:

Make and Model: PPI A300.2 #2
Serial/ID: NA
Date tested: 12/08/11

Rt. Channel output: 17.43 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 75.9 watts
Lt. Channel output: 17.59 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 77.35 watts
Mono Channel output: 33.18 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms Mono = 275.27 watts 
44.2 amps @ 12.89 VDC total power draw 

So as you can see, it makes rated in stereo but 9% below rated in bridged mono just like the others.

Ok, this one's ready for installation.
Now onto the A404.2.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Here's my A404.2.
I picked it up on Ebay dirt cheap because it was DOA.
I believe I paid $80.00 for it.
The heatsink and artwork are very nice making it a 9 out of 10.
I knew The Stig could bring it back to life so I bought it to go into a future project car of mine.
It will not be going into the Suburban.
More on that much later.

Being a four channel amp, it's more complicated and laid out differently than the two channels.
Getting it operating again turned out to be nothing major but it did give The Stig some issues during semi-final testing. because of a loose via.

Here's the pics and comments through the process:

Heatsink top view









Fuse side









Input side









Bottom plate









Heatsink fully cleaned prior to Kapton tape









Missing power pin









Pin replaced from a donor amp board


















Loose RCA input stand










Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Intermittent dc offset adjustment pots-Replaced with precision 10 detent adjustment pots









Loose fuse tangs requiring resoldering and crimping









All cleaned, Kapton taped, and capacitors replaced


















Final power up test









I don't have a picture for it but after testing, one of the channels was fighting him.
Turns out it was a loose via which was described to me as a pass through hole where the solder joint had failed and very hard to trace down because they can make intermittent contact.
Once The Stig found it, it was an easy fix.

Final results of the A404.2:

Make and Model: PPI A404.2
Serial/ID: NA
Date tested: 3/31/12

1: Rt. Channel output: 15.56 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 60.52 watts RMS
2: Lt. Channel output: 15.46 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 59.72 watts RMS 
3: Rt. Channel output: 15.59 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 60.76 watts RMS
4: Lt. Channel output: 15.19 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 57.68 watts RMS
1 + 2 mono Channel output: 26.26 VAC RMS @ 4ohms mono = 172.396 watts RMS 30 ampere’s current draw 2 channels driven
3 + 4 mono Channel output: 26.17 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms mono = 171.217 watts RMS 29.5 ampere’s current draw 2 channels driven
Total current draw was 58.5 amps at 12.89 VDC all channels driven.

As you can see she's over rated power at 4ohms stereo in all four channels but once again, drops to 8% below rated in bridged mono in both front and rear channels.
In conclusion, it turned out to be a nice buy and a good little amp for the formentioned future project with which I will be pairing it up with my 2nd A600.2 currently being gone through by The Stig.

Lastly, my youngest is graduating so look for the Ax606.2 and A1200.2 posts in about a week. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Intermittent dc offset adjusters-replaced with precision 10 detent adjusters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loose fuse tangs requiring resoldering and crimping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cleaned, Kapton taped, and capacitors replaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final power up test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a picture for it but after testing, one of the channels was fighting him.
> Turns out it was a loose via which was described to me as a pass through hole where the solder joint had failed and very hard to trace down because they can make intermittent contact.
> Once The Stig found it, it was easy to fill.
> 
> Final results of the A404.2:
> 
> Make and Model: PPI A404.2
> Serial/ID: NA
> Date tested: 3/31/12
> 
> 1: Rt. Channel output: 15.56 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 60.52 watts RMS
> 2: Lt. Channel output: 15.46 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 59.72 watts RMS
> 3: Rt. Channel output: 15.59 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 60.76 watts RMS
> 4: Lt. Channel output: 15.19 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms = 57.68 watts RMS
> 1 + 2 mono Channel output: 26.26 VAC RMS @ 4ohms mono = 172.396 watts RMS 30 ampere’s current draw 2 channels driven
> 3 + 4 mono Channel output: 26.17 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms mono = 171.217 watts RMS 29.5 ampere’s current draw 2 channels driven
> Total current draw was 58.5 amps at 12.89 VDC all channels driven.
> 
> As you can see she's over rated power at 4ohms stereo in all four channels but once again, drops to 8% below rated in bridged mono in both front and rear channels.
> In conclusion, it turned out to be a nice buy and a good little amp for the formentioned future project with which I will be pairing it up with my 2nd A600.2 currently being gone through by The Stig.
> 
> Lastly, my youngest is graduating so look for the Ax606.2 and A1200.2 posts in about a week.
> 
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Those ilets not making connection through to the other side of the boards trace can be a little difficult to find at times ran across that only a few times, I've got a G&S designs series II Predator that had that same problem easy fix though. You got some nice amps there Bret


----------



## Darth SQ

Thank you. 

I have some time off tomorow so I think I will attempt to post the Ax606.2 and A1200.2.

And finish my Alpha Damp install.....
And begin my Luxury Liner Pro install.....
And somewhere between all that the wife wants to roleplay. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## rexroadj

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Thank you.
> 
> I have some time off tomorow so I think I will attempt to post the Ax606.2 and A1200.2.
> 
> And finish my Alpha Damp install.....
> And begin my Luxury Liner Pro install.....
> And somewhere between all that the wife wants to roleplay.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


GEEZ Bret....I'm going to be finished with the Renegade restore 
and finished with my next one before you even get the Alpha done  J/K....lifes only easy and convenient when you dont live it! 
Is your wife going to pretend to be a PPI Art engineer or repair tech 
(may be sold this week....I may turn down the offer and keep it to get a basic daily/snow suv/truck?)


----------



## Ampman

My PPI 2150AM needed only a few minor repairs as mentioned in other threads so while I had the board out of the chassis I went back with the kapton tape instead of the mica insulators after playing it for over and hour I can tell a difference in the temperature of the heat sink now than before its much cooler so it's Kapton tape for all my old school goodies


----------



## Darth SQ

Ampman said:


> My PPI 2150AM needed only a few minor repairs as mentioned in other threads so while I had the board out of the chassis I went back with the kapton tape instead of the mica insulators after playing it for over and hour I can tell a difference in the temperature of the heat sink now than before its much cooler so it's Kapton tape for all my old school goodies


Interesting.....
I did not know it would make a noticeable difference.
Did you get actual temp readings or go by feel?

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Interesting.....
> I did not know it would make a noticeable difference.
> Did you get actual temp readings or go by feel?
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


By feel, It's much cooler than before I was really surprised when I put my hand on the heat sink wow big difference


----------



## Darth SQ

That is interesting.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Here are the pics and details for PPI's 1996 beast; the A1200.2.
The A1200.2 is a 10/10 in condition.
I believe I paid just under $600 because I wanted an as close to new one as I could find.
This is the same A1200.2 that's shown in www.ampguts.com.

The only problems with it were a lifted off board ground and a problem with heat distribution otherwise, it operated perfectly when The Stig tested it.
The heat problem was due to a warp in it's backing plate but also due to the hold down bolt layout.
It's bolt pattern is biased to one side leaving clamping pressure reduced where there's no hold down bolts.
The Stig came up with a way to correct it using steel and aluminum channeling to even out the clamping force.
To you members reading this, I am sure it looks like overkill, but it solves the problem. 
Finally, the amp received the usual capacitor upgrades, clean up, and Kapton tape.
The large black capacitors were not replaced since they all tested fine which is good because they're expensive to replace.
I asked The Stig why they're not replaced and he told me they don't have the same failure characteristics as the others.
Anyway, here's the pics and the final specs after completion.
Enjoy.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


A1200.2









Fused side









Input side









Inside prior to reconditioning









Heatsink thoroughly cleaned









Board ground lifting









Board ground repaired and upgraded like the other amps









Board-left side









Board-right side


----------



## Darth SQ

The process of fabricating and installing the channeling














































Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Backing plate hold down bolt layout









Right side-Note bolts are all the way out to the edge









Left side-No bolts at the leading left edge









Kapton tape installed



























Caps replaced



















Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Thermal paste applied


















Parts replaced









Final testing










Final results of the A1200.2

Make and Model: PPI A1200.2
Serial/ID: NA
Date tested: 5/23/12
Client: Bret Mason
Rt. Channel output: 35.03 VAC RMS at 4 ohms = 306.775 watts RMS*
Lt. Channel output: 35.08 VAC RMS at 4 Ohms =307.651 watts RMS*
Rt. Channel output: 32.87 VAC RMS at 2 Ohms = 540.218 watts RMS*
Lt. Channel output: 33.22 VAC RMS at 2 ohms = 553.446 watts RMS*
Footnote:
Asterisk sign = Due to power supply limitations and AC power plug limitations 
This amp was tested one channel at a time and no mono testing was possible.

So the same results here as the previous amps.
She makes rated and then some at 4 ohms stereo but drops off just under 10% when pushed.
As mentioned above, The Stig was not able to provide bridged values due to the amp's massive power draw.
She truly is a beast.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Parts replaced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final results of the A1200.2
> 
> Make and Model: PPI A1200.2
> Serial/ID: NA
> Date tested: 5/23/12
> Client: Bret Mason
> Rt. Channel output: 35.03 VAC RMS at 4 ohms = 306.775 watts RMS*
> Lt. Channel output: 35.08 VAC RMS at 4 Ohms =307.651 watts RMS*
> Rt. Channel output: 32.87 VAC RMS at 2 Ohms = 540.218 watts RMS*
> Lt. Channel output: 33.22 VAC RMS at 2 ohms = 553.446 watts RMS*
> Footnote:
> Asterisk sign = Due to power supply limitations and AC power plug limitations
> This amp was tested one channel at a time and no mono testing was possible.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Very nice amp


----------



## Darth SQ

If the A1200.2 is PPI's beast, then the Ax606.2 is PPI's flagship.
It is undoubtedly PPI's most complicated amplifier produced at that time.
It consists of an A404.2 for channels 1,2,3,4, and a Pro Art 50 for channels 5,6 and has a built in FRX-456 active crossover.
It also has three separate gains for high pass, band pass, and low pass.
She is capable of 800 watts total all on her own.

Specs are for channels 1,2,3,4 are the following:
4ohms stereo 50 watts
2 ohms stereo 100 watts
4ohm bridged 200 1,2 and 3,4 each

Channels 5,6 are the following:
4ohms stereo 50 watts
2ohms stereo 100 watts
1ohm stereo 200 watts
4ohm bridged 200 watts
2ohm bridged 400 watts.

This was my first Art amp purchase almost two years ago and I think I paid about $500.00 for it then which in retrospect was high since it has the heatsink scratch on the side.
The good news is the rest of the heatsink is flawless (9/10 minus the side scratch), she worked flawlessly when The Stig tested it prior to reconditioning, and all the pots for the FRX-456 work great and don't have any drop out points which was my biggest concern since those components are obsolete.

Once he got her apart though, some problems became apparent.
One of the transfer pins for a secondary board was broken, some solder work was needed, and a sip board didn't pass testing.
The Stig also told me the previous owner had the backing plate cranked down super tight to make the secondary board broken pin touch and complete the circuit.
All in all however, considering just how complicated this amp is, it really is in excellent condition and didn't take that much to get it back up to 100%.

Here's the pics.

Ax606.2
Yes the scratch in the heatsink will be filled before install









Fuse side









Input side










Parts replaced









Close up of old sip board, capacitors, and secondary board pins









Secondary board broken pin









Close up of broken pin










Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Inside amp prior to repairs









All the sip boards









FRX-456 active crossover components









Output pins for all six channels













































Another angle of the FRX-456 components


















Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Other side of board


























































































Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Solder issues from the factory



























Solder improvements made




































Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

New capacitors installed































































New secondary board male and female pin stands installed


















Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Board ground repaired and updated









Power & ground pin solder improvement









All repairs and reconditioning completed



























Performing final testing









Ax606.2 final results:

Make and Model: PPI A606.2
Serial/ID: NA
Date tested: 5/23/12

1: Rt. Channel output: 14.78 VAC RMS 4 ohms = 55.356 watts
2: Lt. Channel output: 15.32 VAC RMS 4 ohms = 58.675 watts
3: Rt. Channel output: 15.75 VAC RMS 4 ohms = 62.015 watts
4: Lt. Channel output: 16.16 VAC RMS 4 ohms =65.286 watts
5: Rt. Channel output: 17.43 VAC RMS 4 ohms = 75.951 watts
6: Lt. Channel output: 16.82 VAC RMS 4 ohms = 70.728 watts
All channels driven simultaneously at 4 ohms 6 channel load



1: Rt. Channel output: 14.98 VAC RMS @ 2 ohms = 112.20 watts
2: Lt. Channel output: 15.22 VAC RMS @ 2 ohms = 115.82 watts 
3: Rt. Channel output: 14.49 VAC RMS @ 2 ohms = 104.98 watts 
4: Lt. Channel output: 15.31 VAC RMS @ 2 ohms = 117.198 watts
5 + 6 mono Channel output: 31.16 VAC RMS @ 4 ohms mono = 242.736 watts 

2 ohm testing was 5 channel mode.

As you can see, the Ax606.2 is well over rated power in 4ohm stereo and 2ohm stereo for all six channels.
Channels 5,6 are a good 40%+ over rated power in stereo and are still over rated power in 4ohm bridged mono typical of the Pro Art design.

It should be pointed out that this amp did run hot when pushed hard so The Stig didn't test it in 2ohm bridge mono.
Looks like this amp would be a good candidate for running the liquid cooling option but for my application, since I am only using it for my 3-way front staging, high amp temps won't be a problem.
I would be curious to know if those of you running this same amp are experiencing the hot operating temps.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR[/QUOTE]


----------



## Darth SQ

So this concludes my year long adventure into reconditioning the PPI Art amplifiers. 
I will be posting three more amps; another A100.2, A600.2, and an A200.2 when I get them back in about two months or so.
If I find a good A204.2, I will go through it as well completing the Art series collection.

My thanks go out to The Stig for all his hard work, willingness to take pictures of the process, educating me on what was done and how, and for his quick responses to my e-mails or out of the blue phone calls.
He's been an absolute treasure and I was very lucky to find him.

I also want to thank you as well for following my thread as it unfolded.
I hope you found this all as interesting as I did.
It's been quite a journey getting these eight amps back up to 100%, but now I know that when I crank it up, they'll be ready to rock.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## Darth SQ

Thanks to Cedoman, I now own an A204.2 which completes my collection.
So add that to the upcoming recondition list that I will post. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Ampman

I see in your pics this amp has the IRFZ44 FETS in the power supply, I was wondering can you ask your friend thats reconditioning these are those still available. Only ones I've been able to find are the IRFZ44N FETS that don't handle the same amount of pulse power as the Z44'S do I appreciate any help Bret. Have a blessed one.


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## Darth SQ

Ampman said:


> I see in your pics this amp has the IRFZ44 FETS in the power supply, I was wondering can you ask your friend thats reconditioning these are those still available. Only ones I've been able to find are the IRFZ44N FETS that don't handle the same amount of pulse power as the Z44'S do I appreciate any help Bret. Have a blessed one.


I'll let you know what he says. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Stiggy says:

Tell him he can use IRFZ-46 or IRFZ-48 if he wants higher current ratings both pulsed and continuous.

Hope that helps. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Stiggy says:
> 
> Tell him he can use IRFZ-46 or IRFZ-48 if he wants higher current ratings both pulsed and continuous.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Thanks Bret


----------



## ahardb0dy

Custom clamping rails made by The Stig to test the amplifer with the back cover removed.
Without them the all the fets would quickly overheat and burn out within minutes.
















[/QUOTE]

Do you know what size those square tubes are? I looked at some today I think they were 1/2" square but would prefer something slightly bigger for my conversion.

Thanks


----------



## Hextall 27

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> The Stig would like to add his thoughts to the below rated wattage specifications discussion so here it is:
> 
> _ I could explain how the power supply and its noise reduction filtering inductor might be to blame but that is a long winded tale of how a inductor designed to work at 4 ohm power levels and spec's does not fare well at 2 ohm load levels due to the double current demand across its core material and windings. Inductors are usually fine tuned to a high Q filtering function and this does not handle big changes like double current draw at lower ohm loads. Basically inductors are tuned very tightly to cancel noise, and broad changes like jumping to double power factors thru the windings can push them slightly off tune due to the High Q they were set at for 4 ohms.
> 
> The Stig_


Bret, does this mean The Stig could/would replace the inductor if the amp was to be used solely in bridged mono or is that a more complicated procedure?


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## Hextall 27

vwguy383 said:


> Yea thats what I was looking for. I knew about the black and white and that .2 looked different. But I wasnt sure if there was multiple types of art on one model.
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


The white amps from 1993 are actually a little different than the ones from 1994-1995. You can tell what year your amp or any other PPI gear was made by looking at the SN#, the first two digits are the year. I caught an a$$hole on ebay once trying to pass off an A600 as "mint, never touched". Only problem was the SN# on the bottom started with 96, the bottom cover was from a .2 (1996 only). I knew it had been opened at that point.


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## Darth SQ

I have zero idea what you are talking about.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Hextall 27

_inductor designed to work at 4 ohm power levels and spec's does not fare well at 2 ohm load levels due to the double current demand across its core material and windings._

Does this mean there is a better inductor to install if an amp is going to be run strictly as a bridged mono amp for a sub.


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## WRX/Z28

Brett, Is your guy doing any work for forum members with Art series stuff yet?


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## Darth SQ

Nope, sorry.
FWIW, my last four amps are still at his shop waiting to be finished.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## starboy869

I would've love to see a spec for 5 and 6 down to one ohm load.


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## Darth SQ

Me to but it got hot real quick at 2ohm using those channels.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## HondAudio

Bumping thread to put it on the 'My Threads' list and to make it visible to others


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## Darth SQ

Good news!
The Stig has finished the last four of my twelve PPI Art amps that I had him repair and recondition over the last three years.
I will be picking them up this coming week and will post the pics for all four a little after.
This will finally cover every .2 Art amp model in PPI's 1996 line up and complete this thread.
We're almost done so hang in there just a little longer. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## astrochex

Its like you've been in labor 3 years and are finally gonna pop! What are their names?

Congrats!


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## Darth SQ

astrochex said:


> Its like you've been in labor 3 years and are finally gonna pop! What are their names?
> 
> Congrats!


Thanks buddy!
Names?
How about money pits 1 through 12. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## tugboat

Do you know the width of the tape he used? It looks to be about 2" wide.



PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Question from 2167 on my install thread was the following:
> 
> _The kapton tape replaced the thermal grease?
> If i was going to do that to my Power class amps is their anything i should know?
> I looked up some kapton tape and it was in 1 mil and 2 mil? _
> 
> No, the Kapton tape is designed to replace the mica boards (thin sheet between the fets and the heatsink) but you still need to use the thermal grease. Just remember you don't need to glob it on like PPI did at the factory. Please use the above pics for reference.
> 
> The Stig says he uses 1mil but 2mil is fine and makes no difference. He also says the process is the same for the Power Class amps as shown above for my Arts. The hardest part is getting every component and the heatsink thoroughly cleaned prior to tape installation.
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Ampman

tugboat said:


> Do you know the width of the tape he used? It looks to be about 2" wide.


I used 1 1/4 inch wide for my 2150AM and it covers quite a bit


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## tugboat

Awesome TY sir.


Ampman said:


> I used 1 1/4 inch wide for my 2150AM and it covers quite a bit


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## Darth SQ

tugboat said:


> Do you know the width of the tape he used? It looks to be about 2" wide.


Yep, pretty close to that if not exactly 2"
Hope that helps.
Just saw your post Ampman.
Thanks for helping out. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## tugboat

I'm trying really hard to get the PC 21400.2 to run happy and healthy at 3 ohms bridged. I was also considering upgrading the internal fan to something with more CFM.


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## Darth SQ

The last of my four PPI-ART amps, an A100.2, A200.2, A204.2 and an A600.2 are finished.
This will be the last installment for this two year project and I am very pleased to finally be wrapping it all up.
With the addition of the A200.2 and the A204.2, this thread will have covered all of the 1996 Art line up in the PPI catalog minus the Pro Art models.
It is my hope that this thread has helped you better understand these OS amps and what it takes to keep them at 100% for another 15-20 years.
I know it has helped me immensely.
I wish to take a moment and personally thank The Stig for believing in my vision and taking on my extensive project, working around my schedule, willingly accepting work on additional amps as I bought them, photo documenting everything relevant, spending many hours explaining all the work that he did, how everything works, and why something so simple as upgrading components like caps make a difference in the long run.
But I want to especially thank him for exceeding all my expectations. :thumbsup:
Technicians like him are as rare as hen's teeth.
I also want to thank you for giving of your time to read through this all of this.
I think this thread has lived up to what DIYMA is all about.

Ok, on with the last four amps.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## astrochex

Congrats Bret!


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## vwguy383

Will we ever know who The Stig is??????


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## Darth SQ

I'll try to follow my previous layout for each amp to maintain some sort of continuity.

A100.2 #3
I seem to remember buying it as a throw in deal with another amp I bought so it was cheap, as in $45.00 or around there cheap.
This amp only had a couple of bad resistors that once replaced, got it working perfectly again.

Amp prior to repairs









Location where the two failed resistors mount









New resistors installed









Board cleaned up









New capacitors installed



























Old capacitor and new capacitor side by side comparison









RTV silicone between the mylar capacitors to help keep them in place











Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Heatsink already cleaned, Kapton taped, and board reinstalled









Final testing









Replaced parts









Amp reconditioning completed









This one benched out at 28.944 watts for the right channel, 31.866 watts for the left channel at 4 ohms stereo, and 103 watts bridged at 4 ohms mono after all completed tuning and balancing.
Note-2 ohms stereo was not test for.

Rated power is 25 watts per channel at 4 ohms stereo, 50 watts per channel at 2 ohms stereo, and 100 watts bridged at 4 ohms mono.
So as you can see, this A100.2 is putting out at above rated power.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

A600.2 #2
Time now to move onto my 2nd A600.2 reconditioning.
I believe I paid $225.00 for this amp because it was in excellent cosmetic condition.
I think I bought it from a DIYMA member.
The only problem with this amp is one of the mylar capacitors had a broken wire that went to the board. Other than replacing the mylar capacitor with one from my donor boards, all The Stig had to do this amp was clean it up, Kapton tape it, and upgrade the capacitors.
The donor boards became absolutely essential at reconditioning my twelve amps due to the fact that many of the board components are no longer reproduced.
The old donor boards really saved my butt at least 8-10 separate times during this project.


Board prior to cleaning and repairs









Heatsink cleaned and Kapton taped









Broken mylar cap wire









Mylar capacitor replaced









Repairs and reconditioning completed









Final testing









Old replaced parts









Close up of old mylar capacitor









Amplifier fully assembled and completed









The A600.2 is now all ready to go and back to new operating condition.
It puts out 162.435 watts for the right channel and 163.328 watts for the left channel at 4 ohms stereo, and 585.39 watts at 4 ohms bridged mono.
Rated power is 150 watts per channel at 4 ohms stereo, 300 watts per channel at 2 ohms stereo, and 600 watts at 4 ohms bridged mono.
As you can see she's well over rated in stereo and just below rated in mono.
Note-2 ohms stereo was not tested for.
It should also be noted that just like the my other A600.2, full output at 4 ohms bridged mono exceeds the 40 amp fuse rating (81 amperes during the test) so a higher amp rated fuse would be in order.
The Stig went with an 80 amp fuse in both my A600.2s.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Ampman

tugboat said:


> Awesome TY sir.


Welcome


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## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Yep, pretty close to that if not exactly 2"
> Hope that helps.
> Just saw your post Ampman.
> Thanks for helping out.
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Welcome


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## Darth SQ

A200.2
I'm pretty sure I bought this amp from a DIYMA member for around $135.
It was in excellent cosmetic and operational condition when I got it and all The Stig had to do was clean it, tape it, and recap it. 

Amplifier prior to reconditioning


















Heatsink cleaned and Kapton taped









Final testing









All the old replaced parts









Amplifier all back together










This amp puts out 59.752 watts for the right channel and 58.446 watts for the left channel at 4 ohms stereo, and 200.081 watts at 4 ohms bridged mono.
Rated power is 50 watts per channel at 4 ohms stereo, 100 watts per channel at 2 ohms stereo, and 200 watts at 4 ohms bridged mono.
Note-2 ohms stereo was not tested for.
As you can see she's way above rated in stereo and dead on rated in mono.
Not bad for a little class ab footrpint.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

A204.2
I have no clue where I got this one and don't remember what I paid for it.....sorry.
It was in excellent cosmetic and operational condition only needing some minor solder repairs and the usual cleaning, taping, and recaping.


Amplifier prior to clean up



















Board ground update performed









RCA stand solder repair









New capacitors









Heatsink cleaned, taped, and board reinstalled









Final testing









Amplifier completely reassembled and ready to rock









This amplifier puts out 29.484 watts for the front right channel, 28.408 watts for the left front channel, 28.037 watts for the rear right channel, and 29.052 watts for the rear left channel at 4 ohms stereo, and 97.614 watts for the front summed channels, and 95.746 watts for the rear summed channels at 4 ohms bridged mono.
Rated power for this amp is 25 watts per channel at 4 ohms stereo, 50 watts per channel at 2 ohms stereo, and 100 watts per summed channel at 4 ohms bridged mono.
Note-2 ohms output was not tested for.
As you can see she's above rated power in stereo and slightly below rated power in summed bridged mono.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Ok, that's all folks.
Once again I hope you found this thread informative and helpful.
Thanks for reading! :thumbsup:


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ

Here's a link to the A100.2, A200.2, A204.2, A300.2, A404.2, A600.2, and A1200.2 PPI manual:

http://www.precisionpower.com/Manua...cision_Power_Art Series Axxx.2 Amplifiers.pdf

Here's a link to the Ax606.2 PPI manual:

http://www.precisionpower.com/Manua...cision_Power_Art Series Ax606.2 Amplifier.pdf


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Apollos2

Total cool project. I'm sure you are happy, I always did love the way the old PPI stuff sounded in my car.


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## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> A204.2
> I have no clue where I got this one and don't remember what I paid for it.....sorry.
> It was in excellent cosmetic and operational condition only needing some minor solder repairs and the usual cleaning, taping, and recaping.
> 
> 
> Amplifier prior to clean up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Board ground update performed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RCA stand solder repair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New capacitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heatsink cleaned, taped, and board reinstalled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amplifier completely reassembled and ready to rock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This amplifier puts out 29.484 watts for the front right channel, 28.408 watts for the left front channel, 28.037 watts for the rear right channel, and 29.052 watts for the rear left channel at 4 ohms stereo, and 97.614 watts for the front summed channels, and 95.746 watts for the rear summed channels at 4 ohms bridged mono.
> Rated power for this amp is 25 watts per channel at 4 ohms stereo, 50 watts per channel at 2 ohms stereo, and 100 watts per summed channel at 4 ohms bridged mono.
> Note-2 ohms output was not tested for.
> As you can see she's above rated power in stereo and slightly below rated power in summed bridged mono.
> 
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


Didnt know they used those ceramic driver boards in the smaller amps.


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## Darth SQ

Almost forgot these:

All the replaced parts from the 12 Art amps piled together. 





















Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Ampman

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Almost forgot these:
> 
> All the replaced parts from the 12 Art amps piled together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bret
> PPI-ART COLLECTOR


What you going to do with all those old parts ?


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## Darth SQ

Ampman said:


> What you going to do with all those old parts ?


I just pitched them. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Albino Meatpod

Wonderful thread!! I have an old PPI A404 1994 model with old school MB Quarts 6.5's (QM160's) and Infinity Kappa 6x9's, a PPI Sedona APA460iX that I had bridged mono to 2x10" JL Audio. The Audio Control 2XS capped off a fantastically accurate sound system.

The system put into dry storage when the car was totaled after enjoying it for <1yr. I now have a truck simply begging for the system but now I realize I need to inspect the caps before installation. Guess I'd better locate my old solder iron.

The PPI was chosen over the Nakamichi amps (just barely) & the MB Quarts were chosen over the Cantons & Nakamichi 5.25/6.5's. I sold the JL Audio 10" subs but I can get some NOS for around $50 apiece. 

Thanks for the inspiration to get the old (but barely used) system back together. Like I said, great thread!

Do you have a larger size system icon I could see?


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## Darth SQ

Albino Meatpod said:


> Wonderful thread!! I have an old PPI A404 1994 model with old school MB Quarts 6.5's (QM160's) and Infinity Kappa 6x9's, a PPI Sedona APA460iX that I had bridged mono to 2x10" JL Audio. The Audio Control 2XS capped off a fantastically accurate sound system.
> 
> The system put into dry storage when the car was totaled after enjoying it for <1yr. I now have a truck simply begging for the system but now I realize I need to inspect the caps before installation. Guess I'd better locate my old solder iron.
> 
> The PPI was chosen over the Nakamichi amps (just barely) & the MB Quarts were chosen over the Cantons & Nakamichi 5.25/6.5's. I sold the JL Audio 10" subs but I can get some NOS for around $50 apiece.
> 
> Thanks for the inspiration to get the old (but barely used) system back together. Like I said, great thread!
> 
> Do you have a larger size system icon I could see?



Thanks for the kind words.
Hopefully, this pic will work for you.
Also, here's a link to my build thread.
Enjoy. 












http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ban-old-school-contemporary-build-log-13.html



Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## timmy39120

I have 2 art series amps that I bought brand new back in 1993 (or 94, can't remember) and I used them up until 2002. Since then, they have been sitting in my closet with me dreaming of putting them in a new system. Reading through this thread has inspired me. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.


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## Darth SQ

timmy39120 said:


> I have 2 art series amps that I bought brand new back in 1993 (or 94, can't remember) and I used them up until 2002. Since then, they have been sitting in my closet with me dreaming of putting them in a new system. Reading through this thread has inspired me. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.


You are most welcome.
You and others like you are the reason I made this thread. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## horners85regal

I found this site looking into PPI repairs, My PC-650 just only this summer if its driven hard for a few hours (like my drive home from work) after the car is shut off for the night the next day i turn it on and it sounds like ac voltage power hum at full volume coming out of all speakers ! I am going to attempt to pull it out and see if i can repair it now due to this site. excellent job ! and great info I hope i can get this working as its in my fun car that goes into car shows etc.

my build thread https://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=36910


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## brackac

Any chance the "Stig" needs more work? I have 7 amps, 4 BNIB, that could use some refreshing.


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## Darth SQ

brackac said:


> Any chance the "Stig" needs more work? I have 7 amps, 4 BNIB, that could use some refreshing.


He's made it clear to me that he's done even with my future amps.
Sorry.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## sunsetter

Hello, Awesome thread !!!
I was hoping if I bumped this thread I could maybe get some clues on my PPI A600.2!!!

I bought it last month from some guy and I finally got to install it, and it had the low impedance light. It had zero output on both channels.
I opened it up.
I looked at the board and i see there is (I think) a resistor that is visibly blown.
Located at FB8 or FB3, I can't read it very well. It is located right between the Gain nob and the Right (-) speaker terminal...
Can anyone tell me what type of resistor this is? It is located on R171 as well as many other spots on the board, and the good ones seem to be 2ohm but all I can see is the black band in the middle and I cannot find it online can someone please tell me what the heck it is?!


----------



## sunsetter

Bump!


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## effingmatt

I stumbled on this thread while searching for a PPI A1200.2 and was amazed by your collection, I can't imagine the good fortune of being able to slowly gather all of the Art Series bits you have managed to wrangle together. Especially so after finding so little out there for sale. Great work!

A PPI A600.2 was the heart of my first real system, powering 2 JL Audio 12s, back in 1994. Naturally, I have found my way back home.


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## Camineet

That pic of all your amps on the table has me drooling terribly

I also consider the existence of these amps to be a crowning human achievement and have just recently unearthed my all but flawless and working A600.2 which I can no longer allow to be in storage – not enjoyed on a daily basis

After embarking upon the project, I've discovered all of the news regarding the needed recapping.

Is there any chance we could get someone to do the grand and glorious favor of posting mouser.com product links along with counts for recommended caps so that I can place an order and get the recapping project underway? perhaps others are/will be in need of this specific and direct info?

again, my amp is the a600.2. i'd be grateful if someone could tell me the caps to buy. it would really be nice to not have to do the thing in that youtube video where the guy shows how to select the right caps by physically measuring the old ones and poking around on mouser for something that appears to be suitable:surprised:


----------



## Camineet

*offering to donate to the cause $25 via paypal as a consulting fee to the kind and knowledgeable friend who can do the work to provide this info


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## Darth SQ

I have no information on that for you.
Sorry.


----------



## RiLoWa

Camineet - Even though you have the A600.2, there are at least two different board revisions used so you would still need to open it up to see what revision you have in order for someone to recommend what caps yours would need.

Removing the power plug side plate will help distinguish between the two I know of.


----------



## grinkeeper

This is a great thread.

I have a good condition PPI 2300am with somepowersupply transistors that are smoked..

I rest of the board looks great...

I was going to have a guy in toronto do the rebuild restore but I might change to another tech to do it...

Any suggestions who might be able to do this job for me? Of course I would ship the amp out


----------



## Camineet

RiLoWa said:


> Camineet - Even though you have the A600.2, there are at least two different board revisions used so you would still need to open it up to see what revision you have in order for someone to recommend what caps yours would need.
> 
> Removing the power plug side plate will help distinguish between the two I know of.


oh hey just saw this

ya, i ended up opening, mapping, and buying all needed caps

then i went to replace them and found removing them to be a beast without special desoldering tool. 5dollar desolder popper tool and wick both failed miserably. prolly something to do with how old solder gets really hard. 

anyway, put working amp back together and will run it lightly for a while until i find the time to buy desoldering iron and go at it again


----------



## leigh_stephen

Be careful with Kapton tape. It does not have the same thermal properties and the Sil pad used in the original design. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Bluesound

Late to the party but I am interested in a modest install using an a300 and an a204.2. I would prefer an a204 to match but I have not been able to acquire one yet. Is there anyone in the Dallas area that might be able to go through them for me? I don’t have much knowledge on the internals of amps. Also, can someone tell me the difference in the “.2”s? I know the graphics but the boxes say “new technology”. Just curious. And if anyone has a very very clean 204 that they would consider an offer on I would be very interested in making a deal with you. ?


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## Bluesound

Wow. That is very unclear. I was asking for information on the second generation art series. What is the difference between them and the first generation aside from the graphics.


----------

