# Audi B7 S4 X-Post Install



## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

Crossposted from Euroaddiction.net

So here goes:

Ok guys, so I've always been a bit of a audio buff, but had told myself I wasn't really going to get into doing anything on this car. Partly because I liked the RSN-E a lot and didn't want to pay big bucks for a sound processor to extract the signal for aftermarket amplification and typically I am not a fan of large touch screens in cars when they come stock with very well integrated components, like the RSN-E. Well with the second round of the Dynavin group buy I decided I liked the idea of keeping an OEM look but getting to gain a lot of features as well as get some better audio options. I figured I could sell the RSN-E and break even, so it seemed like a good to suite my needs.

Well first off [email protected] was absolutely AMAZING to work with and highly recommend him for any audio needs he may be able to help with! After a long wait for my Dynavin (not due to Trent), I finally got to start playing around with it. Install wasn't too bad, I just wish I'd seen his writeup as there are a couple basic things you need to check to make sure of while installing it. The Dynavin manual is pretty bleak, but Trent helped a lot to make sure all was good. There were a lot of things I liked about the Dynavin, and in general it seemed to have a very good touch screen as well as some great features. However, after prolonged use, I realized it just wasn't fitting my needs. I felt some aspects of it were lacking and basically feel if you hadn't had a RSN-E stock, then you'd probably really like this unit. But having the factory navigation, this just didn't impress me as much as I had hoped for. Maybe I set the bar too high, or may be it's just me. Whatever the case, Trent helped me so much through the whole process, and we agreed that it just wasn't fitting my wants/needs.

At this point the itch to do aftermarket audio was in and I started looking at aftermarket headunits. First off, retail on some of these are stupid expensive. Like nice HD TV's can be had for the price of these headunits, and being into hi-fi audio, they really aren't even supplying that impressive of a signal or options when it comes to options in the home audio field. But all comes down to size, multiple features, navigation, integration, screen etc so they start to rack the bill up on them fast. I started leaning toward the Pioneer units simply due to I liked the interface of them. They have a new Avic-Z120BT which I really liked, but even after coupons/sales/rebate, I couldn't justify the alomst $1k prce point not including all the install gear for it (cheapest I found after MIR was 800 I think, but then factor in about $150 in additional accessories to have running in your car). This lead me to it's little brother the Avic-x920BT with a slightly smaller screen and some less options with the most damning being weaker preout signal voltages i.e. poorer signal in theory.


Aight, lets get the story moving, just wanted to give some preface. 
*Equipment picked to be used:*
Focal 165VR through crutchfield (Retail $630, after discontinued in April and pricematched, $250 Shipped)









Pioneer Avic-X920BT (Retail $1200, pricematched close to SonicElectronix to $680, plus $100MIR through Pioneer so $580) Also bought HD radio, harnesses, iPod cable, & Faceplate, total to $980, but after $100 rebat $880)









~60 sq ft of eDead sound deadener through Elemental Designs. (some coupon code for 15% off all the time so basically free shipping, total $130)









Elemental Design eDead V4TekLite (basically Acoustic Matting) 30sqft










50ft of JL 12gauge speaker cable (bought at local hi-fi store, total ~$60)








Boston Acoustics GT-40 Amp (bought used on e46fanatics, but I think it has a fan issue b/c it's making noise when on) But going to run bridged to front crossovers.









JL Audio Twin Amp Kit using 4 gauge wire (already installed)

3 pair of 20' JL Audio RCA Interconnects

Custom Fiberglass sub box from Los Labs (thinking about trying to build my own again to better suite a W7)









JL Audio W7 10"









Rockford P500.2 500RMS bridged


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

Okay, so now that all that is out of the way, Lets get to the install. I already installed the W7 a while back, but like I said may build a new fiberglass box. I ended up building a new amp rack out of MDF board and attached inverted to the rear deck. I'll get pictures of it up later. Originally I was using Beemer's idea about back dooring the bose amp (and did run this for a while, WOW, the bose speakers LOVE having some real power to them, but still not anything like aftermarket) But after running new RCA's and all I decided to run new speaker wire to the doors. Talk about a PITA, those molex plugs suck, and I had to get the dremel out to expand the bottom of that hole a little to help get the 12 gauge speaker wire through. Joey was a HUGE help with this part of my install as I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to disconnect these plugs. He came to the rescue a couple of times asking where basic things were located or how to get them apart. But I hate german plugs, but am often amazed by them as well haha!



















Since we're on the topic of doors as well, I sound deadened the inside of the door skin (as in part closest to the exterior door panel, inner door skin, and outer door skin part. Basically, imagine if you were looking through the holes in the sheet metal where you can see the window mechanical parts, well the part straight through has sound proofing on it, then the both sides of the metal that the window regulator and speaker baffle attaches are fully sound deadened with a double layer on the outside part) as well as the acoustic matting on the outside of the door skin. This was a slow process but makes a world of difference. I double walled the outside door skin (and some of the inside) as the sound deadener I bought is a "thinner" version. Honestly this didn't add _that_ much weight. I think it's something like .3-4lbs per sq ft and I bought 60 sqft of the deadener and have some left (but I'll probably be using that in the trunk and possibly rear doors). The sound deadener is incredible and literally changes the way the doors even close. My BMW had full sound deadening in the cabin and it was amazing, but I wasn't going that route on this car obviously.


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

The real part that took forever on the doors was fiberglassing pieces to cover the large holes in the door skin. The reason this is done is your door is basically a speaker cabinet, and having something with some sort of pressurization (doesn't need to be complete and obviously there are drain holes in the bottom for water) allows the speaker to perform much much better. Typically you will see increased bass, tighter midrange, and overall crisper sound. This is all from the woofer as the tweeters are closed back and don't benefit from this. I used fiberglassing from home depot, and then used a silicon to make a good seal and self tapping metal screws to provide an extra tight secure seal. This was a tedious process, but I felt like if I was doing everything else it'd be worthwhile to do this as well.
*
So FIBERGLASS:*
Figure out your area:



















And go:





































Finished Effect:



















Then starting to put the sound deadener around it:


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

After all the interior sound deadener was on and I had made the fiberglass parts, I reattached the window motor and cycled the windows to make sure nothing was getting in the way or restricting movement. All was good so sound deadening continued!



*Then onto the speakers:*
First off I am very impressed with these, especially for the money. I really was wanting to pick up some used Hertz MLK or Focal K2's, but just couldn't find any, and the pricepoint of $1000 for a set of components wasn't something I could swallow. That's partially why I wanted to go the extra mile on the door was to ensure I could get all that these speakers could give me. I previously had Focal Utopia's in my BMW, but I had gotten them used and was able to sell them 2 yrs later and only loose $40 bucks on them. But I wanted to go a different route on this car. 

Anyhow, I was thinking about fiberglassing some speaker baffles or making some MDF baffles, but at the end of the day, I decided I didn't want to do the work and I just used the Bose Baffles. They were actually a little small diameter wise, but I just screwed down really tight and felt confident it was a good enough of a seal. I also felt that due to some of the curves around where the baffle attaches to the door, it would be best to use the oem for a good seal.

Oh, and soldering heat shrink is awesome again. I didn't want to do just plain connectors, and my soldering wasn't working too well on the speaker terminal so I thought this was a good route.
























































I believe this backing to work as a deflex pad does, therefore attempting to reduce backwaves reflecting off of the door back to the speaker. So I tried to make the smallest exit path I could for the wire to travel through.










If you'll also noticed, I tried to load up the baffle with sound deadener as well. I read some on sound quality car forums that some people had used modeling clay to add mass (adding mass to the baffle can reduce vibration and ensure all the energy from the speaker is being translated directly to the enclosure and allow the cone to work as efficiently and crisply as possible), I wasn't a big fan of this due to heat and felt that it might start to melt. However I felt that the weight of the sound deadener could provide some of the same benefits so I loaded up the baffle with the mass loader.











Well I feel like I could go on forever. But I guess that's the main aspects to it. I'll try to get some more pictures up when it's really complete, but right now I'm still waiting on a replacement antenna adapter, ground loop isolator, and back up camera install stuff. I'll try to get the amp rack pics too, but it's nothin fancy.

So how does it sound? WORLDS of improvement over stock. How much is due to my enhancements vs speakers? I dunno, can't tell ya. I just feel this was the "right" way to do it so this is what I was going to do. Like I said, this isn't for everyone, but I love hi-fi sq and this was something to ensure I could get the best sound quality and enjoyment out of the pieces of equipment I had to use.


Breakdown on cost: Actual Cost MSRP
Speaker wire $60 $60 
Amp Kit (already had) ---- ~$150 (2 interconnects included)
RCA Interconnects (only 1 extra) ---- ~$20
Sound Deadener & Matting $130 $130
Focal 165VR Component Spks $250 $630
Boston Acoustics GT40 $125 $300 (discontinued now)
Rockford P500.2 $125 $300
Los Labs Box for W7 ---- $175
JL Audio W7 Subwoofer ---- $699
Pioneer Avic-X920BT $590 (after MIR) $1200
Pioneer GEX-P20HD HD Radio $100 $100
Pioneer CD-IU50V iPod Cable $49 $49
PAC SWI-PS $69 $69
PAC C2R-AUDI 05 (Dash Kit) $49 $49
Antenna Adapter Included ---- ----
Fiberglassing Materials $70 $70

Total: $1620

Recouping money:
Sold RSN-E ($780)
Sold XM Receiver ($40)
Bose Subwoofer ??? not yet sold
I think busted CD changer ??? not even listed

Total $800 (ouch, I thought I had done better than that haha; Actually probably about another $150 on top of that too)


Anyhow, thought I'd share as I've only found a couple writeups about audio in the B6/7 models beyond sub installs or basic speaker installs. And very little info on it with S4's. Not really a full tutorial, but I'd be happy to explain more detail about any aspects, but figured I'd rather not waste everyone's time to share info that no one may even care to hear. So, enjoy.

Oh, and those wondering about total time. . .. umm yea, screw me! This originally was just a head unit install, and turned into this build. But Head unit I spent probably ~4 hours fiddling and adjusting stuff, and still waiting for components. Speakers, wires, sound deadening etc was spread out over 4 nights, but probably guess somewhere in the ~15hr ballpark. I like to fiddle and think about options, but I definitely didn't intend for it to turn into such an ordeal but it's close to done now. At least till I start that next fiberglass box haha!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

great looking build. i love the car. any pics of it?

i love the equipment choice also


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

These are nice cars to work on. Everything comes apart and goes back the way it should! Sweet build. Wana see pics of the car. If you need a 2 din dash bezel for the B7 let me know, I have one from my B6 Build and its the same for the B7.


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

MTopper said:


> great looking build. i love the car. any pics of it?
> 
> i love the equipment choice also


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## davidmelnikov (Jul 12, 2010)

Nice install so far, I noticed the backside of the speaker baffel (vented plastic pieces) they look a bit flimsy. Would suggest dremmeling them out completly so no flexing and unwantted backwaves would ocure. Or maybe you are right and they would act like a deflex pad which I personally dont think possible because of its distance from the woofer.


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## s4turn (Jun 17, 2009)

awesome car !


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i really love the car. looks amazing. what amp are you using on the w7?


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

davidmelnikov said:


> Nice install so far, I noticed the backside of the speaker baffel (vented plastic pieces) they look a bit flimsy. Would suggest dremmeling them out completly so no flexing and unwantted backwaves would ocure. Or maybe you are right and they would act like a deflex pad which I personally dont think possible because of its distance from the woofer.


I thought about that, but I was thinking that those were there to act as a deflex pad? They are triangular with the ridge point toward the speaker. And with there being so many they are actually decently strong. It takes a fair bit of pressure to deform them so I didn't think I'd get any vibration from them. Experts opinion please chime in. I really don't know that much about the topic but it's easy to cut them out, hard to put back though hehe.




s4turn said:


> awesome car !


Thanks, she's my baby! :thumbsup:



MTopper said:


> i really love the car. looks amazing. what amp are you using on the w7?


I have a P500.2 on it since I've owned the sub. I bought the first one refurbished right when I bought the sub, and about 3yrs later the amp crapped out. I still have it, but every time it gets power signal the fuses blow. I've held onto it but have no idea to fix it (and no luck on rockford warranty, costs more to have them fix it then buy a new one refurbished). Anyone have ideas or a cheap way to fix it? Literally blows both 30amp fuses as soon as power is turned on even if gain is all the way down, no spk cable or rca's plugged in, and when setup the same way with my other rockford p500.2 it works perfectly. 

Recently though I've been thinking of switching to a JL HD750/1. I'm thinking about doing a new fiberglass enclosure and with that I might do an exposed amplifier on the sidewall with the 750/1. I'd like to give the sub a little more power and that JL amp seems perfect. I'd love to go 1000/1 for ****s and giggles and turn it down, but it's too long to fit in my space if I mount it where I want the 750/1 to be mounted.

I'd like to fiberglass ported in the trunk sidewall as I think I have enough space, but figuring out the port size and all seems like a disaster waiting to happen. I haven't found much good information on that topic when you're talking about irregular box shape and thus port fitament.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

the only reason i can offer you is because w7 are 3 ohm subs and that amp bridged is a 4 ohm load which is why you're popping fuses


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

MTopper said:


> the only reason i can offer you is because w7 are 3 ohm subs and that amp bridged is a 4 ohm load which is why you're popping fuses


Yea I'm awareof the ohm difference, but that's not the reason the fuses are blowing. First off it ran the W7 for 3 years, and now my second one of the exact same model has run the another W7 for another 2 years and is still going strong. But what I was trying to explain, was that the amp will blow the fuses as soon as it has power even if NO other connections are made to the amp. But in the same configuration not only does my other amp run fine but also sends signal to the W7.

I know a monoblock would be best, and that's why I'm wanting to go to the 750/1, but I really doubt the amp and sub would run fine for 3+years without hesitation before one gave way.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i don't know what to tell you then. i'm no in depth amp person. good luck with it


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Great looking car and install.

side note... AU looked pretty good this past weekend.


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## AccordUno (Aug 7, 2009)

Nice Car, you on TnEuros?


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## davidmelnikov (Jul 12, 2010)

mbgt72 said:


> I thought about that, but I was thinking that those were there to act as a deflex pad? They are triangular with the ridge point toward the speaker. And with there being so many they are actually decently strong. It takes a fair bit of pressure to deform them so I didn't think I'd get any vibration from them. Experts opinion please chime in. I really don't know that much about the topic but it's easy to cut them out, hard to put back though hehe.


There aint enough traveling, its merely acting like a vent only. let your ears be the judge of it ... My 2cents say cut em away  I am a non believer of deflex in car enviroments anyhow.

And hell yes you got a SWEEEET RIDE ! ... LOVE IT!


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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Great car and build, I take it you are also a member over at Audizine? How well does that box fit in the trunk? I have an Avant that I want to use the same cubby for installing my sub, but want it to be more stealth (hoping to utilize the door that is already there to prevent anyone being able to see the sub if I have the parcel shelf rolled up).

Still piecing things together for my build at the moment, but may end up sending you some PM's for some help when I actually get around to putting anything in the car.


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## mbgt72 (Oct 24, 2010)

davidmelnikov said:


> There aint enough traveling, its merely acting like a vent only. let your ears be the judge of it ... My 2cents say cut em away  I am a non believer of deflex in car enviroments anyhow.
> 
> And hell yes you got a SWEEEET RIDE ! ... LOVE IT!


I understand, I'll think about it some. I'm not saying I'm a believer in them either, but I was just trying to find out more info before I made it so I couldn't go back.



AccordUno said:


> Nice Car, you on TnEuros?


Umm, I'm on there some. There's not a lot of activity in the audi section of TN euros, but I do have an account under the same name. I've made it to one south nashville meet, but I'm going to the Audi Club of Ga's meet this sat at Centerhill Lake in Cookeville TN. Should be a good group from mid tn/east tn/north ga. Google "audi club ga" and then go to events, they've got all the info on there.



FLYONWALL9 said:


> Great looking car and install.
> 
> side note... AU looked pretty good this past weekend.


WAR DAMN EAGLE! Haha, god do I miss college. . . Real world is nice, but anyone who doesn't miss college didn't do it the right way in my book, bc I had more fun and more nights that I don't remember that I'd go back in heartbeat! Thanks for the compliments though.



MTopper said:


> i don't know what to tell you then. i'm no in depth amp person. good luck with it


Hey, I appreciate the help, and you may be right. I'm no expert either, it just seems odd to me to work for so long. Wasn't trying to call you out, just the fact that it's frustrating and I don't have the answers either. Thanks for trying to help and please relay any other info you may come across.



lordbaccus said:


> "**** you all,go to hell,but suck my fat chubby before you go"


Hmmm, interesting view, I'll think about it, thanks for sharing though. :shifty:



naiku said:


> Great car and build, I take it you are also a member over at Audizine? How well does that box fit in the trunk? I have an Avant that I want to use the same cubby for installing my sub, but want it to be more stealth (hoping to utilize the door that is already there to prevent anyone being able to see the sub if I have the parcel shelf rolled up).
> 
> Still piecing things together for my build at the moment, but may end up sending you some PM's for some help when I actually get around to putting anything in the car.


Umm I'm mainly over on Euro Addiction, I'm still somewhat active on Audizine, but a lot of drama that's un-needed, and the smartest mechanical guys for the B6/7 S4' & RS4 all reside on Euroaddiction. It's simply an amazing resource of people that I'm happy to be a part of.

The box fits pretty well, but I think it was specifically designed for the B6. Mine needed to be a little bigger/thicker to support the W7 as well though. It is very possible to do what you are doing though and I hope it works out well. I've seen many installs that reference what you are wanting to do. I'm getting the parts together to do a fiberglass box on that sidewall and replace the entire carpet piece that is on the side trunk panel with the box and mdf integrated together. Hopefully it will turn out much cleaner and give me more cuft than I have right now. We'll See. Keep me posted, and if I do go with my new route, I'll probably sell my old box if your setup doesn't work out.


And thanks to all about the compliments to the car. I really do enjoy her (her name is Austin), and it's easy to get caught up on the forums that your car is just ordinary or lacking mods etc when comparing to some of the biggest enthusiasts across North America (fair bit of B6/7 S4 guys reside in our neighbor to the north), but it's nice to see a refreshing amount of support/enthusiasm over the work I've done to her in a new forum with members of a different experiences/views. Anyhow, thanks for the compliments, suggestions, and help guys.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i was just thinking about it. i had a 2 channel amp running for about 6 months on my JL w6 running at 2 ohms. the amp worked for those 6 months before it started cutting out on me. so who knows... hopefully someone more knowledgeable will pop in and save the day


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

Looks nice! A lot of layers on those doors. 

Car is badass & those rims really set it off - like it needed any additional help.


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## SVOEO (Nov 2, 2009)

Good system. Great car. Miss my modded B5 Avant S4- drop 911s with kids & dog along...


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