# Screws into MDF speaker rings



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

Screws into MDF, only get tight once then strip. So...what do you guys use in MDF speaker rings to install speakers in and out? I saw a thread a while back i cant find about hurricane nuts or something..but what can i buy locally?


----------



## Calum (Aug 13, 2008)

use a screw with a wider thread pitch. Or these http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=48&ObjectGroup_ID=831


----------



## Lothar34 (Oct 6, 2006)

Hurricane nuts FTW
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage...ne+nuts&search_type=main&WebPage_ID=3&x=0&y=0


----------



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

What about local buying?


----------



## BMWturbo (Apr 11, 2008)

Are you pilot drilling the holes??? I find it best to drill a pilot hole before 'tapping/screwing' ii to MDF as it seems to stop it delaminating and stripping.

As above, ensure you use a wide threaded screw also.


----------



## hbski (Aug 17, 2008)

local hardware store will most likely have hurricane nuts or t-nuts


----------



## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

when i went to install my new mids in my doors the new ones screwed tightly into the holes that were previously there. no problems here.


----------



## acold7dusta (Sep 21, 2008)

hbski said:


> local hardware store will most likely have hurricane nuts or t-nuts


x2 i got my T-nuts at Home Depot (set of 8 for $1-2)


----------



## finebar4 (Aug 26, 2005)

Ace is the Place 

They have them, just have to look thru the pullout drawers in the nuts and bolts aisle.


----------



## Tambiengabriel (Aug 14, 2008)

Hurricane nuts!


----------



## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

elvisjer said:


> What about local buying?


Homedepot.


----------



## Mooble (Oct 21, 2007)

Why not just put a dab of wood glue in the holes?


----------



## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

They only strip if you overtighten them. Otherwise you can keep resusing the same holes over and over again. I've removed my speakers from my MDF rings several times and put them back without stripping.


----------



## caver50 (Sep 2, 2007)

If they strip out, use a slightly larger screw with a corser thread.


----------



## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

kimokalihi said:


> They only strip if you overtighten them. Otherwise you can keep resusing the same holes over and over again. I've removed my speakers from my MDF rings several times and put them back without stripping.


I tend to believe this. I've only done it a couple times, but no problems here. Overtightening FTL.


----------



## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

I've drilled all the way through the rings into the sheetmetal. This holds very well.


----------



## caver50 (Sep 2, 2007)

BEAVER said:


> I've drilled all the way through the rings into the sheetmetal. This holds very well.


Thats what I do.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

How about something like this?


----------



## Calum (Aug 13, 2008)

BEAVER said:


> I've drilled all the way through the rings into the sheetmetal. This holds very well.


I see you live in Michigan, have you had any rust issue caused by this?


----------



## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

Why would rust be an issue? How many holes are already drilled into various portions of sheetmetal from the factory?


----------



## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

I'm lazy, I use ply for that and attach mdf baffle to the ring if I need/can fit more wood. I like to swap stuff, not worth other hassles to me to do it any different..if you use nuts its kind of hard to move them for a different driver.

I've use screws into the sheetmetal always here in MI, for long time and unless you have a real pos junker car rust is not an issue. Often I can't get all the screws to hit metal though, so I still use ply to screw speaker into. BTW factory tends to fill a hole with a fastener or that hole is painted. Sometimes I put silicone on holes I think might rust, or on screws going into them. Most newer cars its not an issue like it was with say 80s cars. I still use good old drywall screws for much of that hidden stuff, they rust like crazy exposed and never do in cars in my experience. Also often use threaded screw clips like factory uses instead of a bolt/nut, they hold pretty good and autobody ones are much better than what speakers might come with. You can use SS hardware if worried about rust, did that in boats.


----------



## Lothar34 (Oct 6, 2006)

Rudeboy said:


> How about something like this?


The issue there is that you have to be able to hold the nut on the back side. Once you've put the speaker in, you can't get to the back anymore. Glue may or may not hold it. I don't think a t-nut would work well with HDPE, but the hurricane nuts still should.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Lothar34 said:


> The issue there is that you have to be able to hold the nut on the back side. Once you've put the speaker in, you can't get to the back anymore. Glue may or may not hold it. I don't think a t-nut would work well with HDPE, but the hurricane nuts still should.


I cut slots into the bolts so I can hold it with a small screwdriver but I've removed the speakers a few times and the bolt has never moved without the screwdriver.


----------



## CheshRcat (Sep 18, 2008)

Most hardware stores sell T-Nuts, which have a flange that bites into the wood on ther under side. My personal favorite solution is to use brass threaded inserts -- you drill an oversized hole, add a little glue to the threads, and screw the insert into the wood. Then use 1/4-20 or larger panhead machine screws to attach the speaker -- this also works great for repairing your mdf rings that have already have screw tear-out.

Locally to Seattle, you can get both T-Nuts and threaded inserts at Woodcraft or Rockler.


----------



## BMWturbo (Apr 11, 2008)

I interpreted Rudeboy's post as creating a 'stud' in order to slide the driver over and then another nut tighten the driver down on to the speaker ring.

If you were to use some locktite and do the nut and bolt up tight to begin with with a dab of glue under the bolt head you won't have teh bolt wanting to turn when tightening the driver with a second nut to the speaker ring.


----------



## Lothar34 (Oct 6, 2006)

BMWturbo said:


> I interpreted Rudeboy's post as creating a 'stud' in order to slide the driver over and then another nut tighten the driver down on to the speaker ring.
> 
> If you were to use some locktite and do the nut and bolt up tight to begin with with a dab of glue under the bolt head you won't have teh bolt wanting to turn when tightening the driver with a second nut to the speaker ring.


I was looking at it the other way around. Regardless, I think the hurricane nuts are a better solution.


----------



## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

Lothar34 said:


> Regardless, I think the hurricane nuts are a better solution.


Hurricane and T-nuts are absolutely the WORST product to use...try using threaded inserts available from Mc Master Carr, the brand name is EZ LOK. They are so much easier to use, wont ever strip the mdf wood, you can insert and remove the machine screw 1,000 times without damage, and the holding strenght is much much better than any hurricane or T-nut.

Here is the product I am talking about. I have used them for close to 5 years now with great success.

















Some MDF speaker rings with the inserts installed. These have the flange on top.

































These dont use the flange, and can be mounted just under the mdf flush line.


----------



## Lothar34 (Oct 6, 2006)

AzGrower said:


> Hurricane and T-nuts are absolutely the WORST product to use...


The EZ LOKs look really nice, but I don't see how you figured that hurricane nuts and t-nuts are absolutely the worst products to use.


----------



## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

BMWturbo said:


> I interpreted Rudeboy's post as creating a 'stud' in order to slide the driver over and then another nut tighten the driver down on to the speaker ring.
> 
> If you were to use some locktite and do the nut and bolt up tight to begin with with a dab of glue under the bolt head you won't have teh bolt wanting to turn when tightening the driver with a second nut to the speaker ring.


That's correct. It may be a little over the top but it's rock solid.


----------



## AzGrower (May 30, 2005)

Lothar34 said:


> The EZ LOKs look really nice, but I don't see how you figured that hurricane nuts and t-nuts are absolutely the worst products to use.


T-nuts tear up the mdf, so if it ever wiggles loose (which is another common problem with them) then you tear up the mdf even more trying to get the teeth to catch again.

hurricane nuts dont set well and will spin when trying to loosen them, then you need to try and either drill out the machine screw or cut it off to get the speaker out.


----------



## drtool (Nov 26, 2007)

I hate mdf. Baltic Birch only. I have only used t nuts 3min away when I need some, so will stick to them.


----------



## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

I hate mdf and have started using HDPE for most everything except enclosures.


----------



## Calum (Aug 13, 2008)

BEAVER said:


> Why would rust be an issue? How many holes are already drilled into various portions of sheetmetal from the factory?



I live in Nova Scotia, not much farther north but close to the ocean. Everything causes rust here. Making a hole in sheet metal without sealing it often causes alot of trouble.


----------



## LiquidClen (Dec 27, 2005)

I use T-Nuts


----------



## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

AzGrower said:


> Hurricane and T-nuts are absolutely the WORST product to use...try using threaded inserts available from Mc Master Carr, the brand name is EZ LOK. They are so much easier to use, wont ever strip the mdf wood, you can insert and remove the machine screw 1,000 times without damage, and the holding strenght is much much better than any hurricane or T-nut.
> 
> Here is the product I am talking about. I have used them for close to 5 years now with great success.


Quick question on installing these. Before screwing these into the MDF (with a hex key/ Allen wrench I presume), what size pilot hole do you use? I'm assuming it should be the size equivalent to the diameter of the shaft of the threaded insert, that is, at the inner point of the threads. You wouldn't use a hole with the diameter of the outer surface/point of the thread, correct? I know it's common sense, but I just want to make sure.


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

JediMentality said:


> Quick question on installing these. Before screwing these into the MDF (with a hex key/ Allen wrench I presume), what size pilot hole do you use? I'm assuming it should be the size equivalent to the diameter of the shaft of the threaded insert, that is, at the inner point of the threads. You wouldn't use a hole with the diameter of the outer surface/point of the thread, correct? I know it's common sense, but I just want to make sure.


I typically just grab my drill bits, and start making holes in scrap wood. I test fit until I get the right sized bit.

I advise using wood glue on these, too. If for nothing else than the fact that these can, in fact, strip out inside the mdf, too.


----------



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

This is one reason I used hdpe for my baffles. Used stainless machine screws, washers and nuts to bolt baffle to door. Then used stainless screws to hold speaker into hdpe. The consistency of hdpe holds screws extremely securely, doesn't require predrilling, and can be used thousands of times without problems. Plus, hdpe is as easy to work with as mdf with common wood working tools.


----------



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

WHere do you suggest buying hdpe at? Do you go with 1/2? How much does it cost you?


----------



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I bought a piece of 24x12x3/4" white hdpe online via ebay to use for my mid baffles for my pioneer 720prs speaks. I think I paid about $11 for it, and then another $12 for shipping.  Shipping was a ripoff, but the I couldn't find 3/4" locally.

Locally I bought a piece of 1/2" black hdpe at west marine. It was about 24x11x1/2" I think, and they charged out the whazoo. Think it was around $30.

It's not as cheap as MDF by any means, but it is water resistant, rot resistant, uv resistant, etc. It is a very solid material. Same thing used on salt water boats to make parts like tackle trays, bait boxes, and a million other parts.

Search ebay for hdpe or starboard. As well, search west marine, boaters world, etc for marine board or starboard or hdpe.


----------



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

I live very close to a TAP plastics, ill check thier prices but i assume they will be very high too.


----------



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

elvisjer said:


> I live very close to a TAP plastics, ill check thier prices but i assume they will be very high too.


Don't know, but I've heard the name TAP Plastics a million times when it comes to where to get hdpe, so definately check with them.


----------



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

I know they have it and you can get scraps for $1.50 a pound but they are rarely larger than 1 sq.ft. and 1/2" thick.


----------



## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

Eeek! They want $18 a sq.ft. for 3/4" HDPE. I did manage to get 2 8"x8"x3/4" scraps for a total of $7.50 though!


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

Bringing up a dead thread to keep info in the same place. Can I get a confirmation on if people have actually had good results using hurricane nuts into HDPE. I'm thinking of using HDPE for an amp-rack in a sub-floor, and have a bunch of hurricane nuts left over and was thinking it might work. Just don't know if they would be more likely to pull out or crack the HDPE.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If you want to drop a couple in the mail, I'll try them out and let you know 
I used King Starboard, which I assume is a brand name of HDPE, and it worked well. I used threaded inserts from Lowes. I practiced on wood, like Bikinpunk said, and once I got the right sized bit, I predrilled the plastic.
I got mine from Cesany Plastics on Ebay...1.5"x12x24 for like $59 shipped. Not real cheap, but I won't have to build them again, unless I change speakers.

Jay


----------



## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

Well, I bought 50 from PE, and then used 6 for the sub enclosure. So now I have 44 waiting to be fastened to something haha. They worked really well in MDF, so I'm curious how they would do in HDPE. I am still not sure exactly how I'm going to do the amp rack, but I definitely don't want to be doing bare wood screws if I don't have to. And also machine screws with standard nuts and washers is a PITA. I guess I will try it out, and if it sucks I will be out an $11 sheet of HDPE.


----------



## DJSPANKY (Dec 15, 2009)

94VG30DE said:


> Well, I bought 50 from PE, and then used 6 for the sub enclosure. So now I have 44 waiting to be fastened to something haha. They worked really well in MDF, so I'm curious how they would do in HDPE. I am still not sure exactly how I'm going to do the amp rack, but I definitely don't want to be doing bare wood screws if I don't have to. And also machine screws with standard nuts and washers is a PITA. I guess I will try it out, and if it sucks I will be out an $11 sheet of HDPE.


For an amp rack I use MDF and T-nuts.
-Predrill the mounting holes
-Glue the T-nuts into the hole
-While glue is wet,install bolts into nut and tighten to draw down T-nut
-Let the glue cure and remove the bolt, or, if you get crazy with the glue you might have to draw down the T-nut then remove the bolt before the glue sets up or you might glue the bolt into the T-nut


----------



## Mr. C (Oct 17, 2008)

BEAVER said:


> I've drilled all the way through the rings into the sheetmetal. This holds very well.


That's how mine are. Works very well for me.


----------

