# 2006 Mazda3 S build thread



## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Hey there I recently decided to start my build up of my 2006 Mazda3 S GT. I don't even have all the components yet but I was itching to start. With the wife and 3 kids on vacation my window had opened and I needed to start before it was too late. So here's a break down of what I have so far:
DLS UP6a comps 
Audison LRX4.300
Image Dynamics ID12 dual 2 ohm
eDead and Dynamat Extreme sound deadener
Various Hooker Audio cables from my previous install.

Future gear includes swapping out the Audison for possibly a Baby Belle or other single footprint multi-channel amp. Scenario 2 has me keeping the LRX 4.300 and adding an LRX 1.400 to power the ID. To control it all will be some sort of OEM interface like a 360.2 since there is a fair amount of theft here in my 'hood. Ensolite will be on the short list too...
Anyhoo, I began the install be deadening the trunk with eDead. I know many of yootz have a problem with eD but I got the stuff at a good bargain and have been happy with results, so PLEASE no pissing contests here in my thread. 

Here are the pics:














































The idea behind the deadener is to apply the most I can without adding substantial weight to the car since its not exactly a paragon of subcompact power or a SPEED3. I still need to deaden the plastic around the rear deck to neutralize the rattles coming from the rear deck now that the sheet metal below has been deadened. I know its not the best deadening job in the world but its my first time and time was short. (just because the wife is on vacation doesn't mean the honey dos stop.).... The doors will get Dynamat extreme since this area is really critical for best sound reproduction....

Please feel free to provide constructive criticism as I'm open to it since I really want to get better at installing my own stuff as I do enjoy ti quite a bit!!

Cheers
JON


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

UPDATE: sorry I forgot to mention a friend of mine at work has offered to construct FG sail panels for the tweets. I know I shoulda done it myself but with three kids all under 4 time is fleeting and he is EXTREMELY proficient at anything auto related ( clay modelling, sheetmetal fab, FG, suspensions, etc.) plus I have never worked with FG before. 
We will work together to fab in the sub box when it comes time to cross that bridge.

Until next time.....


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

In my wife's Mazda 3, I put a 12" Boston in a ported box in the trunk on around 400w. Also have Polk db coaxials in the front doors getting 50w per side. No deadening installed at all, and that car still has almost no rattles from anywhere. Mazda seems to have done a good job with keeping things quiet, at least compared to my Subaru.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

my front doors buzz like a MOFO even at moderately low volumes... Not sure why....rest of the car is great; WAY better then that stupid A4 quattro I had.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Here's what the car kinda looks like now:



















they are ROTA SDX 17x7.5 with 225/45/17 tires and Canuck Motorsport springs (1.75" drop)


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

jonnyanalog said:


> Here's what the car kinda looks like now:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks very nice...

Keep the install pics coming... deadening job was well done

Mark


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

One suggestion, park your car with the trunk facing the house when taking pics in a thefty hood 

No sense showing off what your building to any hood rats who may be riding past.

Looks good so far, I really like those wheels.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

good idea!


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## thomas2717 (Mar 13, 2008)

Hello: Regarding the door rattle - did you check the "power Window motor" - there was a Service Bulletin on the "Power Window" controller or something .. dealership should take care of that for you...


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

OK Y'allz!
I have made some substantial changes to my system as of late. New finalized setup is as follows:
Alpine IVA-W200
Zapco DC 650.6
HAT L61-2 with L1V2 tweets (anodized black)
MQ Quart PWE 354 15" sub
All StreetWires wiring and such
Optima Yellow Top battery
Edead and DynaMat Extreme sound deadener.

Here are some pics of the sound deadened doors.
Each door has the following:
-3 layers of Dynamat Extreme on the outter skin with the majority toward the center of the door since thats the most unsupported part of the door.
The wrap test shows the doors are DEAD!
-3 layers of DynaMat Extreme on the mounting surface for the speakers. 1 layer at least on the outter side and 2 on the inner side.
-1.5 lbs of modeling clay around each speaker.
-1 layer of DynaMat Extreme on each door card.

Pics:








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The next task is to complete the new baffles for the L6s. These have been made out of .5" plastic cutting boards.
After that all the cables will get expandable nylon sleeving aka techflex.
Thats it for now!

Sorry I didn't get pics of the front door skins. I got them done and it was late like 12:30AM; I was dead tired and simply forgot! I can assure you that they have more deadener on them than the back doors! Oh yeah the rear speakers are disconnected.
Also each door card has gotten a layer of spray on truck bed liner material to further deaden them.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Here are some more pics of the front doors with the clay attached. The clay is on both sides of where the L6 will be mounted to. I figured it would give better results like this. I got the black clay from Hobby Lobby down here in TX. They sell it in 1lb. Packages are I think $3.75 each. 
The DynaMat Extreme has no labels because it comes directly from the people who manufacture it for DynaMat. If anyone needed it I can get the material data sheet for it (they supply deadener/insulation for the Peterbilt OTR trucks). 








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## dejo (Jan 3, 2006)

history in the making, glad to see you are getting it done. will be ready to hear it at the next FoosBQ


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Yeah no kidding. 
I can't wait for you to hear it! The plan is to have it finished by the beginning of August with everything I intend to do.


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## dejo (Jan 3, 2006)

I finally made some changes to my ride and am now thinking of getting a different ride. not sure though


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

what changes have you made and what are you lookin to get?


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## dejo (Jan 3, 2006)

put a set of xxx components in the doors and some apillar pods, and have the subs firing to the rear now and am running the kenwood x1r and x4r amps


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Has firing the sub to the rear made any differences in your opinioin?
Before you get the XXX comps wait until the new Ascendant carbon fibre mids hit the market (they may already be out). My friend has these in his Astro van and they are supposedly VERY good.


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## dejo (Jan 3, 2006)

very big improvement from having them fired rearward. also had a comb going with everything fired forward, I could get them to play well to about 55 hz and then it would just drop like a rock, now with them rearward it seems they are capable of playing on up if I need them to. but get huge rattles in the car now, need to take care of that


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## FrostyMMB (Feb 10, 2009)

Thanks for posting your build log. I've been working on deadening my new Mazda 3 sedan and will be checking back as I make progress.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Its been awhile since I have driven the car let alone worked on it. 
I hope to get some work done on it this weekend. 
I have just deadened the doors and trunk. I may do the rear shelf after the sub goes in. The floors will remain undeadened but I may try some mass loaded vinyl. 
Frosty you should post up yer log; I would love to see it.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Yep, add the vinyl and/or CCF, and you'll finish it right.

Especially the doors and trunk area, which resonate. My Speed3 benefited greatly from a few yards of Ensolite.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up 4thmeal!
I got bored at work today so I made a quick system diagram.









eventually the T400-2 will be switched out for another undetermined DC REF most likely a DC 500.1 or a DC750.2. I HATE non matching amps.


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

Ok this thread is great as I have the same exact car/year. For both of you that have this car what are your thoughts on getting enough bass to you from the trunk? Will 1 12" sub suffice?


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

I ran 1 10 before but it was only powered with about 180 watts and it was not enough. I do remember that for whatever reason (cancellation i think) if the sub was up against the trunk lid it would hit a bit harder. 
1 12 with your A6 should be plenty. 
I went with the 15 cuz I never had one and wanted some spl when I'm feeling like bumpin. The t400-2 should give me around 500wrms to play with. The 15 when mounted will be more toward the center of the trunk facing rear so I'm not sure if I will get any cancellation.


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

jonnyanalog said:


> I ran 1 10 before but it was only powered with about 180 watts and it was not enough. I do remember that for whatever reason (cancellation i think) if the sub was up against the trunk lid it would hit a bit harder.
> 1 12 with your A6 should be plenty.
> I went with the 15 cuz I never had one and wanted some spl when I'm feeling like bumpin. The t400-2 should give me around 500wrms to play with. The 15 when mounted will be more toward the center of the trunk facing rear so I'm not sure if I will get any cancellation.


What I really want to do is fit the subwoofer somewhere in the cabin. I might just have the sub firing towards the cabin with the seats down all the way.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Where in the cabin are you thinkin? Test out several locations after building your box and see what works for you. where are you gonna mount yer bostons?


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

jonnyanalog said:


> Where in the cabin are you thinkin? Test out several locations after building your box and see what works for you. where are you gonna mount yer bostons?


See that's what I have to figure out. What I might try to do is put the subwoofer in back of the seats, leave one of the seats open and seal the box from the trunk that way all waves are staying in the cabin. Another option is to put the sub in the footspace in the back seat if the sub can fit there. I will see how big the sub with box is before I try it though. My sig is actually my want to buy list lol. I will be putting a set of the Seas Lotus Reference comps in the front, currently 1 IDQ12v.3 for sub and my amps will be a Zapco 6.0 for fronts and a Zapco 1100.1REF for sub(s).


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

Forgot to mention the front mids will go in the doors and the tweeters in the sail panels for the time being. Although, I might modify the doors to house the tweeters , nearby the mirror controls in the future. I just don't think I can use kick panels with this car. There hardly is any footspace for it and my previous car had kick panels and the lack of room was a problem for my passengers.


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Kick panels will be tough with anything bigger than a 4" driver. The passenger side kick has 3 very large wire bundles dropping down so unless you want to cut and splice major wireing harnesses they are out of the question. 

As for the sub you can def. go IB like you are talking about. Just make sure you seal the trunk off very well, ie fill holes in the rear deck, etc. I may try that with version 2.0 of my system.


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