# Mattyjman's 2008 BMW 335i



## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Just got done with this one late last week. As most of you know, this is Matt's car and I know he had every intention of doing the job himself but ran out of patience for working in his garage in the middle of summer! I know just what he means too! So, he came down and we spent a little time discussing some options and after I dropped a few ideas on him, I think he really saw the value in having this type of thing done at a shop that has the means to turn his vision into reality.. 









Nice car








All of the gear;
4 L6SE's
2 L4SE's
2 L1R2SE's
3 Mosconi 4 Channel amps
2 Morel Ultimo 10" subs
1 Bit One
1 Mobridge Digital Audio converter

I decided to start with the sub enclosure, because that needed to be done and mounted in order for the amp rack to go in and wiring to take place.








So, I mocked up the angle of the subs roughly on the bottom of the enclosure.
















Fast forward a few steps which, I'm sure are pretty self explanatory, and most of the enclosure is done. 








I made the back the last part to go on because the enclosure will mount using factory bolt holes located around the ski pass area.








Like so








Once that was done, I started work on the amp rack which would be a custom steel piece that holds all 3 amps in a magazine rack kind of way. I like to make "copies" of amps to work with so I don't risk damaging the amp itself.








I marked out the width of the amps onto the floor piece so I would know where to cut.








Before actually cutting the hole out, I ran the piece over the tablesaw with the blade set just high enough to cut away the corrugated plastic like material, so the panel would have a new pivot point.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Here is my area to work with.








I skipped a few steps here, but i tend to get in the zone when I am welding and don't stop for pics. It's a pretty basic (although time consuming) design though, as you can see.








the amp rack was mounted to the floor of the vehicle with 3 1/4-20" threadserts.








For those who are wondering, yes, I did check for clearance. Got a good 1/2".
















On to the pods. this whole area was already decided to be the location for the mids, and really there is no other option. Hell, this almost wasn't even an option!
















Here is the start of the kickpods. I like to make pods as add-on pieces instead of building onto factory plastic. In this vehicle, I was able to remove alot of foam to allow the speaker pods to be more pushed back and less obtrusive.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Fiberglass laid, pretty standard. On the drivers kick, I simply laid glass into the pockets and then laid glass on top of everything, planning to cut out the excess after it cured.








Here you can see the two mounting points, 2 1/4-20" threadserts, that secure the door pod. Each side was this way and it was crazy tight!








Similar treatment for the kicks, except I just drilled and tapped machine screws into the steel in the kick area.








Getting an idea of where the speaker rings would go. I wasn't crazy about the shape, But there wasn't many options for speakers of this size in this location.
















Pretty basic stuff here, just trying to appease Joey.








Getting into the finished picture area already, here is the sub enclosure. I used the foam on the sides to try to seal the enclosure off from the trunk. I was pretty happy with the fact that i wrapped this whole thing in one piece of carpet!
















Enclosure installed and the back screwed on.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

I also did a little lighting to show off the subs a bit.








All the amps installed and tuned.
















Here is the BitOne and Mobridge piece in place of the factory amp, mounted on a piece of 1/4" ABS. Yes, I organized the wiring better before buttoning it up.








Here is the DRC and the USB connection tucked away inside the unused ashtray.








And hidden from view.








Drivers side door pod all done and grilles installed.








Passenger's side.








Close up of the honeycomb grille.








These grilles were really tight.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

I put roundovers on the bottom of my grilles so they can get started easier. If not, they would definitely damage the vinyl going in because theyre so tight.








Another thing to note is that the owner wanted to be able to drop down to a more standard size 6 1/2" speaker should he feel the need. So I made the grille so that it would sit on top of the Hybrid, like so.








But it would fit around the other speaker. This way, he can use an adapter ring that is the same OD as the Hybrid and mount it with the Hybrids mounting points, but it's smaller ID would allow the smaller speaker to mount. And the grille will still sit nice and flush with the edge of the pod.
















The two kicks with the same style grilles.
































Tweeters in the A-pillars, which were made completely with ABS plastic.

That's about it guys, thanks for taking a look and let me know what you think.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

WOW!!! Absolutely... WOW!!!


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Love the Install, Amps and Subs.


Great job Jon...


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## fish (Jun 30, 2007)

You do some very fine work sir! Those kick & tweeter pods are seamless.


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Looks phenomenal, Jon. I'm sure Matt is a happy camper. Hopefully I'll check it out this week sometime.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Amazing


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i wish i can hear this car...  love the install.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Glad to see some firm decisions were made and everything finally came together...Very nice job, Jon


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## jimbno1 (Apr 14, 2008)

Love it! 

What crossover points did you use? Did you decide on dual mids over an 8 due to size constraints? How do the dual mids perform vs 8's you have done in previous installs? 

I am not sure I would have choosen L6SEs for limited midbass duties but they are beautiful. 

Great work.


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

are those door mids vented to the door? or sealed?
nice install


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Really nice! How did you do the pillars out of ABS? Any build pics of that?


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

ecbmxer said:


> Really nice! How did you do the pillars out of ABS? Any build pics of that?



That's something I would also like to see....thanks


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

^ this part is a work of genious... i had a totally different picture in mind, and we weren't able to work with it, and then Jon calls me and says "what do you think about this..." mock up pics to the finished product... really impressive. 

jon has a few shots to post for that


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## Pambs (Jan 7, 2010)

awsome work  are the 4 L6 tunned in the same frequencies?


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

vwtoby said:


> are those door mids vented to the door? or sealed?
> nice install


They are vented to the door, as instructed by my Hybrid rep. He says every speaker they make is designed to be IB.



ecbmxer said:


> Really nice! How did you do the pillars out of ABS? Any build pics of that?


I may be able to dig up a few.



jimbno1 said:


> Love it!
> 
> What crossover points did you use? Did you decide on dual mids over an 8 due to size constraints? How do the dual mids perform vs 8's you have done in previous installs?
> 
> ...


When I gave it to Matt, I believe the Mids were 60-150, Matt can confirm any changes he has made. An 8" definitely would not have worked due to size constraints. I can't say how they perform vs 8"s in a midbass application because I have never used 8"s for that.



Pambs said:


> awsome work  are the 4 L6 tunned in the same frequencies?


Yes, the two drivers side speakers get their signal from channel 5 of the Bitone and the Passengers side gets their signal from channel 6.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Very nice work - top notch fabrication. When I go to Phoenix to hear Buzz's Benz, I can already seen that I'll have to make another stop. 

I'm also messaging and question to you Jon.


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

Excellent work! What is with all the red stuff?


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

The red stuff is a resin pigment that Matt used when he laid fiberglass the first time. It basically just makes for a nicer looking mold. Unfortunately it leaked through his barrier I suppose and got on the carpet.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Hey Matt, I don't know what happened to all the pictures of the a pillars in progress, do you have them by chance?


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## keepitreal07 (Apr 26, 2008)

very nice and clean.

i myself am using mosconi amps.

I love how all your grills are the same throught the 3 speakes


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## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

Hey Matt, congratulations. The results look fabulous; can't wait to hear your ride.

Jon, outstanding work, as usual.


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Really turned out nice. Those A-piller tweeter pods turned out real nice. Looks factory! Looking to pick up a 335 in the spring. Appreciate the ideas!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

handcrafted said:


> The red stuff is a resin pigment that Matt used when he laid fiberglass the first time. It basically just makes for a nicer looking mold. Unfortunately it leaked through his barrier I suppose and got on the carpet.


Ooops :surprised: Haven't found a good way to get rid of it yet either ...



handcrafted said:


> Hey Matt, I don't know what happened to all the pictures of the a pillars in progress, do you have them by chance?


i'll see if i can get those uploaded for you... hang tight


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

These are the only two you sent me Jon, but I think everyone can get a general idea on how this was formed.

Concept:









Fitted in the car -- rough idea


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## Riveted1 (Oct 23, 2008)

Dang Matt! That looks killer! I can't wait to hear it.

Nice job Jon!


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

mattyjman said:


> Fitted in the car -- rough idea


I don't like this..... And the reason I don't like this is that it is NOT currently installed in my car looking this awesome. :blush:

That looks outstanding. This I'm sure was money well spent.


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Notloudenuf said:


> I don't like this..... And the reason I don't like this is that it is NOT currently installed in my car looking this awesome. :blush:
> 
> That looks outstanding. This I'm sure was money well spent.


As luck would have it, I have a solution to your dilemma.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

I see you survived your 110 degree day lol


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

Psh, that's nothing! 120 with humidity, now that's rough!


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Why you didnt use a terminal cup on the enclosure? Everything looks very good but that part where the wires come out and avoided a 3 dollar terminal cup makes me wonder, especially when espensive equipment is used.

But looks awesome.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

handcrafted said:


> Psh, that's nothing! 120 with humidity, now that's rough!



Where might that place be?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

TrickyRicky said:


> Why you didnt use a terminal cup on the enclosure? Everything looks very good but that part where the wires come out and avoided a 3 dollar terminal cup makes me wonder, especially when espensive equipment is used.
> 
> But looks awesome.


i dont know about Jon, but i avoid terminal cups as much as i can unless its a situation where i know i need to disconnect and remove the box from time to time.

i have seen old boxes where it leaks at the terminal cup mounting point, or the wires inside failed at the sodering or connection point on the cup...but with just drilling a=a hole, with wires passed through and then hotglue / epoxy never fails. 

i know its a total matter of opinion, but i know a lot of good installers who believes the same thing...and it has nothing to do with saving 2 bucks and a minute of our time  in a sense, its like you build this badass box out of 3/4" wood or stronger, seal it really well, why would you wanna on purpose replace a portion of that thick material with a piece of 1/8" flimsy plastic?


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## psy4s (May 23, 2011)

simplicityinsound said:


> i dont know about Jon, but i avoid terminal cups as much as i can unless its a situation where i know i need to disconnect and remove the box from time to time.
> 
> i have seen old boxes where it leaks at the terminal cup mounting point, or the wires inside failed at the sodering or connection point on the cup...but with just drilling a=a hole, with wires passed through and then hotglue / epoxy never fails.
> 
> i know its a total matter of opinion, but i know a lot of good installers who believes the same thing...and it has nothing to do with saving 2 bucks and a minute of our time  in a sense, its like you build this badass box out of 3/4" wood or stronger, seal it really well, why would you wanna on purpose replace a portion of that thick material with a piece of 1/8" flimsy plastic?


Makes Perfect Sense!


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## handcrafted (Sep 22, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> i dont know about Jon, but i avoid terminal cups as much as i can unless its a situation where i know i need to disconnect and remove the box from time to time.
> 
> i have seen old boxes where it leaks at the terminal cup mounting point, or the wires inside failed at the sodering or connection point on the cup...but with just drilling a=a hole, with wires passed through and then hotglue / epoxy never fails.
> 
> i know its a total matter of opinion, but i know a lot of good installers who believes the same thing...and it has nothing to do with saving 2 bucks and a minute of our time  in a sense, its like you build this badass box out of 3/4" wood or stronger, seal it really well, why would you wanna on purpose replace a portion of that thick material with a piece of 1/8" flimsy plastic?


Exactly. It has nothing to do with saving money on material, look at everything else in the job. I do it for all the reasons Bing listed and also because I don't like to introduce any more resistance into a path than absolutely necessary. I used to work at an Spl shop and every little milivolt dropped was crucial.



trojan fan said:


> Where might that place be?


Arizona


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Good to know, even though it looks ghetto makes perfect sense. I could actually hear a little hissing noise (air leaking) though my terminal cups but replace them with banana terminal cups (that where better quality and thicker ABS plastic) and made a difference since that hissing went away. But I see what ya'll taking about.


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## honza440 (Aug 22, 2009)

nice job!


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## jimbno1 (Apr 14, 2008)

This makes me want to drive from Chicago to Arizona to have you work on my truck. I do have a friend in Phoenix. Humm.......


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## viscious350z (Jun 30, 2011)

Amazing work.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Jon,

Like everyone else here, I REALLY like the install. I only wish installers where I live had your skills, it would make it so easy for me to just drop off my car and have my system installed. 

The ONLY thing and I know this is nitpicking but I'm OCD. And again, its Matts car not mine. But, I would have wanted the kick to blend better to the doorsill parts and not hang lower making them look closer like one part. I guess its also my eyes playing tricks or the camera not picking it up but the kick grills don't look round but a bit jagged. Speaking of the inner ring where it meets the mesh? 
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/ashezfal/2008 BMW 335i/DSC01575.jpg
Just my opinion, keeping in mind I really do like the install and I appreciate your talents......


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## theothermike (Dec 20, 2006)

i Also agree about the wiring, I understand your terminal cup arguement, however; 20$ binding posts is a no brainer. for such a nice install, im not a fan of the caulk / epoxy sealed wire coming out. and yes i understand the effects of introducing another contact connection, but that is minimal, if it wasn't the case , unpowered high end home audio cabinets would use the same tactic.

one more thing i noticed, not to big on the carpeting. for such excellent vinyl work, attention to detail in every aspect of this install, and fabricating, tuck those seems into the side, or make a recess back wall in the box so that it is 3/8 of an inch pushed inward. and then proceed to tuck the carpet down into the recess, and finish with a 1/4 inch mdf board that bolts. or screws down to the back board. this allows for some pretty neat 2 tone / carpet + vinyl combinations as well as a seamless carpet job for minimal airspace loss and space (both of which can be compensated on the build to account for.)

other than those two incredibly small nitt picky things, i envy your skills, work, attention to detail, fabricating, and all around build logs.

A+++++++. you score a 99% on this install with the only install i've seen being a 100% is Scott Buwalda's demo, and that insane 330 bmw with utopias.


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## minibox (Mar 25, 2009)

Always love to see a bimmer on here with a quality installation. Great work!


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## omega48er (Feb 14, 2011)

sorry to bring up an old post.. but this is one amazing build. i love it. its perfect. im getting rid of my 2010 civic and might be getting into a 07-09 335i convertible and you know..... once you go aftermarket sound nothing sounds the same. 
i do have a question. did you have to do a battery upgrade.
also i want to do something where i do not have to mount the amps like the way you did (not saying it looks bad. it looks very nice but i will need atleast some trunk space)

i would like to know how those speaker sound (and how loud they go).

if i do get the 335i i think ill be going with 2 10w7, btw would a 2 12 fit?

again great work. just wish i had money to pay someone to do all the fiberglassing.


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