# 2018 Subaru WRX



## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Time for another build log. Traded in my truck a while back and decided to go with a WRX again. I previously had a 2015 WRX. I got a great deal on a used 2018 with only 300 miles on it. I've been working a lot on the interior, exterior, performance, and of course the audio. 

So let's start with the exterior. I installed a grillecraft grille, cheap eBay front lip, tint, subispeed sequential taillights, some new emblems, debadged the rear factory emblems, and some new fog light bezels with DRLs. 






































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Next is the performance. I have the CVT version so there's definitely a limit on how much power I can add without having issues. I had a CVT Cooler installed, COBB turboback exhaust, COBB intake, Process West intercooler, COBB electronic boost solenoid control, and COBB accessport for tuning. I had the car tuned at Metro Performance of SoCal. Other items I have that are not yet installed are Process West charge pipe, EGR/TGV deletes. 































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Next is the interior/audio. So the interiors on the WRXs look pretty cheap so I wanted to upgrade it quite a bit which includes removing as much faux carbon fiber and chrome as possible. I added a few bezels that were wrapped with leather and red stitching to also give it a better look. All interior lighting was upgraded, and I purchased a dash mat to help with reflections from the mids/tweets. 



























































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

The audio consists of the following:
Pioneer NEX-2440 headunit

MiniDSP 8x12 processor

Arc Audio KS2500.1

Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 (tweets, midrange, and rear mids).

Arc Audio XDi 450.4 (bridged to midbass).

Hybrid Audio Unity U3 mids in the dash.

Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5s in front doors. 

Hybrid Audio Unity tweeters on a pillars.

Hybrid Audio Unity 6.5s in rear doors.
Sundown Audio SA-10 in ported box tuned to 32hz. IDMAX 12 is on standby!

A bunch of sound deadening was also applied since this car is a rattle machine.

































































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

It was pretty difficult to find a place to mount the controller for the MiniDSP, after some luck I found the perfect spot and it fit perfectly. It slid right in along some plastic slits so tightly that I didn't even have to glue it or anything, however I through on some hot glue anyway. Also found a great spot for the remote bass knob. 


























































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## Hawjx001 (Nov 18, 2016)

You're back to the WRX!!! whoo! How does that 10 sound compared to the IB IDmax you had? i have a 12 in my 2015 WRX and i need some more room


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Hawjx001 said:


> You're back to the WRX!!! whoo! How does that 10 sound compared to the IB IDmax you had? i have a 12 in my 2015 WRX and i need some more room


Yeah, it's too fun of a car especially with the power mods.

The 10 sounds pretty good, definitely gets plenty loud and sounds pretty clean. Tackling the rattles is always a pain of course. I didn't remember my 2015 having as many rattles in the overhead console so that took a lot of work to quiet down. The rear deck is still a headache to quiet down. 

I remember the single ID15 sounded better then when I added a second one. 

I have the IDMAX12 but like you, I'm afraid of losing space in the trunk, the single 10" is a perfect fit and being a birch box is pretty light. I might have to get an IDMAX 10.

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## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

Curious on the CVT wrx? What kind of power did you end up with. Im in the market for a fun sedan and the wife is auto only so I was curious to if the fun is still there.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

The turbo lag is pretty bad on a stock WRX, an accessport and E-tune is all you need for a huge difference in power and more fun. 

Obviously it won't be as fun as a manual but I don't have any complaints with the CVT. 

I also added a small addition to the interior.
















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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

I don't think anyone is following this build but I'll continue anyway. Lol

I had several wires running in the car that were pretty annoying to see so I wanted to clean that up a bit. 

I added another dual USB input in the little cubby section under the AC controls with one being for the headunit USB (Android auto/flash drive) and the other being for the MiniDSP. So now i can just run a short USB to my laptop and tune the car without having to constantly have the wire in sight or running the wire to the front everytime. 

I think it came out pretty good, I bought a spare piece that belonged to an sti, it looks to be the same but it doesn't sit perfectly flush, not a big deal but I might swap it out in the future with another piece and see if it fits a little better. 




















































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

After hearing a few SQ competitors vehicles recently, I've noticed that something I'm missing is dynamics and punch. I've decided to try out a couple of things to make the install more stealth as well as possibly helping with dynamics and punch. 

First thing was trying out another sub setup, 3 Dayton Audio HO 10's sealed. I added the same amount of polyfill to each chamber to help make the enclosure seem larger. Definitely an improvement over the single 10 ported, the subs sound super clean and I have all the volume I'll need. 

Secondly, I picked up an Arc Audio XDi 600.4 to replace the 450.4 and bridged those to my Clarus 6.5 midbass in the doors. I haven't had any time to tune or anything but I should have plenty of power for those as well. Also picked up a roll of foam to possibly help with some resonances in the doors. I haven't installed that yet. 

Lastly, I wanted to make things a little more stealth with the tweeters and I wanted to match them more on access with the Unity mids in the dash. Now the tweets and mids are on access and I'm hoping will anchor the center stage better as well as provide some good dynamics. The tweeters of choice are the Dayton Audio ND16FA. I needed something fairly small to fit in the dash with the mids. Once again I haven't tuned anything yet but I'm hoping it works well. 

I also wanted to experiment with another tweeter mounting position using the Hybrid Unity tweeters in their housing and just mounted on top of the dash grille. This won't be stealthy but I'm interested to see how they sound in this configuration. I'll try the Dayton's out for a bit and then swap them out.

































































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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

And the 2nd tweeter setup.





































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## Hawjx001 (Nov 18, 2016)

Looking good man! did not expect the 3 HO's. I love how small of an enclosure those guys can go in. I'm waiting for Fi audio to come out with their ferrite Q sub and i'm thinking of going with one 10. How's the 3 HO's sound so far?


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## xploderxlt (Oct 6, 2018)

Have you tried facing the subs towards the rear of the vehicle and compare it to firing forward? You might be surprised and pleased with the results.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Hawjx001 said:


> Looking good man! did not expect the 3 HO's. I love how small of an enclosure those guys can go in. I'm waiting for Fi audio to come out with their ferrite Q sub and i'm thinking of going with one 10. How's the 3 HO's sound so far?





xploderxlt said:


> Have you tried facing the subs towards the rear of the vehicle and compare it to firing forward? You might be surprised and pleased with the results.





Hawjx001 said:


> Looking good man! did not expect the 3 HO's. I love how small of an enclosure those guys can go in. I'm waiting for Fi audio to come out with their ferrite Q sub and i'm thinking of going with one 10. How's the 3 HO's sound so far?


Thanks. Yeah, I still wanted to keep the enclosure as small as possible and maintain good output. After I finished up I only listened to it for about 5 minutes and I didn't do any tuning but I'm really happy with the output and how clean it sounds. The sundown SA ported was nice but there's really no comparison in how much cleaner the HOs are.




xploderxlt said:


> Have you tried facing the subs towards the rear of the vehicle and compare it to firing forward? You might be surprised and pleased with the results.


Yes, I've tried a few different locations. Firing subs towards the rear definitely gives me more output but it also causes more rattles. I've deadened everything as best I could but it's just too much output (single ported 10). I haven't tried it with these subs yet but maybe I'll give it a shot and see. 

I'll try these out for the next 6 months or so and then I might try going IB with two IDMAX 12s. 

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## zapps (Jul 31, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> I'll try these out for the next 6 months or so and then I might try going IB with two IDMAX 12s.


Curious, where / how would you mount IB? I just got a 2019 and am looking for ideas. 

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

zapps said:


> Curious, where / how would you mount IB? I just got a 2019 and am looking for ideas.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Here's how I did it in my 2015 WRX using two ID15s a few years back. 












































There's a black plastic piece right behind the rear seats on the floor under the carpet. I replaced that with a piece of wood to anchor the baffle on the bottom. 
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## zapps (Jul 31, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> Here's how I did it in my 2015 WRX using two ID15s a few years back.


Awesome! Did you modify the seat backs in any way? 

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

zapps said:


> Awesome! Did you modify the seat backs in any way?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


No, if I remember correctly the only thing I modified was removing the bottom plastic piece and adding the wood block. Of course I did drill into the car along the rear deck with those L-brackets which you can see and I also drilled through the plastic/carpeted piece for the trunk on the bottom. 

There was no place to anchor the baffle to the sides, luckily the baffle was such a tight fit that even before drilling and adding L-brackets it wasn't budging at all. I literally had to hammer the baffle into place. lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Great work, man!!


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Great work, man!!


Thanks a lot. I've been following your build as well and it looks great. I wish I had the fabrication skills of half the guys on this site. lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

beerdrnkr said:


> Thanks a lot. I've been following your build as well and it looks great. I wish I had the fabrication skills of half the guys on this site. lol


Thanks, and I wish I did too... 

Both your audio and other mods are tastefully done. 
Hey, do you remember that upholstery company (can't think of their name), that made custom accessories for Subaru interiors??

EDIT: I just remembered their name - JPM Coachworks! Too bad they closed down their shop. 

Man, those guys did some great work! Have you seen it? I had them do a couple things for me over the years, though not for a Subaru...


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks, and I wish I did too...
> 
> Both your audio and other mods are tastefully done.
> Hey, do you remember that upholstery company (can't think of their name), that made custom accessories for Subaru interiors??
> ...


Thanks, I've been trying to just make it look a little more quality without going too flashy. Some of the interior pieces I've had done I've gotten from overland-designs.com, I believe they'll work on most vehicle trim pieces, not just subarus. 

There's so many subaru accessory and parts shops, I'm still trying to learn which ones are best. lol


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Sub'ed. 2018 WRX, as well. I've only investigated spaces and clearances. I'm going to attempt 8's in the doors. I also have an IDMax12 that I'm leaning toward running IB. Thanks for those pics of your previous 15's. Did you close off any other areas besides the seat?


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

nyquistrate said:


> Sub'ed. 2018 WRX, as well. I've only investigated spaces and clearances. I'm going to attempt 8's in the doors. I also have an IDMax12 that I'm leaning toward running IB. Thanks for those pics of your previous 15's. Did you close off any other areas besides the seat?


I'd love to have 8s in the doors! Let me know if you have any success with that. The doors will obviously need a lot of deadening, I'm still trying to chase some rattles myself with just 6.5s. 

I didn't seal off any other parts of the trunk. It was a while ago but I remember actually liking the sound more with just a single 15 then when I added the second. 

Make sure you post up a build log when you're ready, I'm always looking for ideas to steal. Lol

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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.

Headunit: Ilx-107
Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
Tweeters: Dayton An25f-4 3k+ in the windshield corners pointed to the dome light
Mid range: Dayton PC68-4 300-3000hz
Mid bass: Peerless 830946 80-300hz
Rear fill: Dayton PC68-4 to match
Sub: alpine type s 10 in a sealed box in the corner but I like this triple Dayton setup against the back seat
Amps: (2) PDx-v9 or thinking about some jl xd amps if I remove the spare the pdx would go under the front seats.

Didn’t know if you guys would share your thoughts on this setup since you have more experience with how the car reacts.

Thanks,
John


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.
> 
> Headunit: Ilx-107
> Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
> ...





Motown65 said:


> Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.
> 
> Headunit: Ilx-107
> Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
> ...


That setup should work just fine but I suggest going with the Dayton RS100P-4 or RS75P for mid-range duties. I would also upgrade to the Alpine Type-R or Dayton over the Type-S. I also preferred the Alpines over the JL XDs, they're both great but I just think the Alpine had a lot more power. 



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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Do the rs100 fit in the dash without cutting it? I don’t want to cut the dash but I’m willing to cut the speakers or the removable grills. Did you have better performance with the nd tweeters on the grills or the other ones in the corner aimed into the cabin? Also are the Dayton ho loud enough and more accurate than say a jl 10w6v3? I had one in my last car but sold it. I was going to use the alpine since I have two and they’re not really worth selling till I bought something new. I like your box with the 3 10s but if I ran 2 pdx-v9s im thinking about just doing 2 10s maybe 2 12s in the same style box for wiring purposes. I’m still trying to keep it small and removable Incase I have to move a tv or something haha.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Oh yeah how’s that box stay when you’re “using” the car haha. I figured the rubber mat would keep it in place well.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> Do the rs100 fit in the dash without cutting it? I don’t want to cut the dash but I’m willing to cut the speakers or the removable grills. Did you have better performance with the nd tweeters on the grills or the other ones in the corner aimed into the cabin? Also are the Dayton ho loud enough and more accurate than say a jl 10w6v3? I had one in my last car but sold it. I was going to use the alpine since I have two and they’re not really worth selling till I bought something new. I like your box with the 3 10s but if I ran 2 pdx-v9s im thinking about just doing 2 10s maybe 2 12s in the same style box for wiring purposes. I’m still trying to keep it small and removable Incase I have to move a tv or something haha.


The RS100's will most likely require a little cutting but the RS75's should fit fine. I'm going to go back with the other tweeter setup to get another good listen to it and see how I like it, maybe the same type of mount on the dash panel but with a larger format tweeter. I also want to try cross firing tweeters with my spare a-pillars and see how I like it. 

I would go with the JL's over the Daytons for sure. The dayton's lack volume, that's why I'm running 3 of them. The issue in these cars is that the rear seats have solid backing so it's hard for the sub pressure to reach the front cabin. With the rear seats down it makes a night and day difference. facing the subs rear firing gives you volume for sure but I feel that I also get more rattles that way and I've deadened the rear deck, trunk, and trunk lid pretty heavily. I guess I need a little more work with that. I think IB will be the best option when it comes to volume and less rattles, it worked well in my previous wrx. 

I recommend 2 10's ported for you, for something that'll give you great volume, low end, and will be removable. I might try ported with two of the daytons as well. 



Motown65 said:


> Oh yeah how’s that box stay when you’re “using” the car haha. I figured the rubber mat would keep it in place well.


The box doesn't move at all, of course it's always good to secure it but I haven't had any issues. Hope this helps.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it. Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the opening to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Motown65 said:


> Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it.


I expected the same thing, a hole in the non-HK system cars. However, it isn't there. The rear deck is solid where the HK sub would be.

















Motown65 said:


> ...Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.


The factory grille is 6" wide (narrow dimension). The factory speaker is 2.5" and the screw holes are ~3.25". The outside mounting flange (oblong) is slightly less than 4" in the long dimension. Now, I went through the same thoughts against cutting the dash. However, notice that the factory speaker has a large air gap around it. I'm not opposed to cutting that further to fit a new speaker. It will be covered by the grille. I've also made a template for a plastic baffle to cover the mounting area.

I have a Google photos album with dimensions measured in the car. PM me if you want more, unless the OP wants them as well in his thread.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it. Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the opening to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.


Other then a tiny bit of cutting it should be fine. Also as stated below unfortunately there's no hole in the rear shelf. 



nyquistrate said:


> I expected the same thing, a hole in the non-HK system cars. However, it isn't there. The rear deck is solid where the HK sub would be.
> View attachment 233661
> 
> View attachment 233663
> ...


Yeah it'd be great to get those pics/dimensions. I'm getting the itch again on trying something new and would like to see how a 4" mid would fit. 

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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice work!


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

LBaudio said:


> nice work!


 Thanks!

So playing around a little more with getting some better dynamics out of the system, I tried a few different tweeters and tweeter locations. First I tried a slightly larger Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter mounted directly to the dash grille. Although it sounded a little better, it just didn't give me the impact I was looking for. 


Next, I thought I would try some A-Pillar mounted tweeters and decided to go with a larger format tweeter. I went with another set of Dayton tweeters that I've had for a bit, Dayton Audio ND28F-6 1-1/8" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter. Ok, now we're getting somewhere! With no EQ work and some quick time alignment, this got me the impact/volume/dynamics I was looking for. I'm very happy with the pillar mounted tweeters, and although they're off axis and it sounds great. Not sure if it's more-so the large tweeters or the placement but now I know what I want. 


I also realized that I wasn't stressing the mids in the dash much and could push them much more. I set the crossover to 175hz/24 and actually sent them some power. The mids were never a big issue, I feel the mid frequencies were fine firing off the glass unlike the tweeters, but now the mids are really providing the dynamics I was looking for as well. 

All of these ugly setups/mounting locations were just temporary until I could find what I was looking for. 
So now I'm debating a couple of things, I'm thinking about going to a 4" mid (most likely Audiofrog GB40) and having it mounted directly on top of the factory dash grille. Where the stock dash speakers are, nothing more than a 3 1/2" will fit without serious modifications. 

I could also go with a HAT L3SE or new X3 which are just slightly larger but will fit in the stock location. The next thing is the tweeter. If I go Audiofrog mid then I'll also be going with the Audiofrog GB10 in the same a-pillar location unless I get some fabrication done and aim them slightly in (above my skillset). If I go HAT, It'll be either the L1V2 or L1 Pros in the same configuration. Any ideas/recommendations?


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

Checking in to see if you've made a speaker decision?


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Picked up some Audiofrog GB40s and GB10s 

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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

I was thinking gb10 gb25 gb60 if I dropped the coin. My money has been tied up in getting a 64mm turbo spinning haha.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Also for tweeter placement I was thinking about putting them in small pods in the corners of the windshield and aiming them to a point ear level between the two headrests.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> I was thinking gb10 gb25 gb60 if I dropped the coin. My money has been tied up in getting a 64mm turbo spinning haha.


The GB25 will probably be much easier to fit and I hear there's not much difference at all between the GB25 and GB40. I just happened to get a great deal on the 40s but I still haven't had a chance to see how or if they'll fit. 




Motown65 said:


> Also for tweeter placement I was thinking about putting them in small pods in the corners of the windshield and aiming them to a point ear level between the two headrests.


I'm contemplating on having a shop do the same for the tweeters. A little fiberglass work on my a-pillars to get them a bit more on axis. If I go that route then I almost feel like I might as well get the GB25s and have them both in pods off the a-pillars. Lol


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

As long as the mid is crossed over low enough it won’t sound any different on/off axis. Those tweeters can play super low from what I understand.


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## moodue (Nov 25, 2018)

Liking the build so far. Love how much you are playing around with it. Trying to get the absolute best out of it.

Was there something specific about the HAT Unity tweeters you didn't like? I had the Imagine components in my last build and I'm trying to decide if I should try something new.

Nice car too. Love that color!


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

moodue said:


> Liking the build so far. Love how much you are playing around with it. Trying to get the absolute best out of it.
> 
> Was there something specific about the HAT Unity tweeters you didn't like? I had the Imagine components in my last build and I'm trying to decide if I should try something new.
> 
> Nice car too. Love that color!





moodue said:


> Liking the build so far. Love how much you are playing around with it. Trying to get the absolute best out of it.
> 
> Was there something specific about the HAT Unity tweeters you didn't like? I had the Imagine components in my last build and I'm trying to decide if I should try something new.
> 
> Nice car too. Love that color!


Thanks. Decided to make the GB40s fit somehow yesterday and came up with mounting them on the factory dash grilles. Lol. I didn't have a chance to tune in but I love these Audiofrog speakers! The tweeters I also mounted on the a-pillars similar to the way I had it before. I'll do some tuning later today and see how it turns out. 

I ended up just throwing the dash mat on top of the speakers and I don't see any issues with interference of the cone or anything. I may end up getting the GB25's just to have them be able to fit in the factory locations. I'm having Nick from carstereoadapters.com make some baffles for the GB25s that use the factory screw holes. I think I've just about exhausted most of my options as far as speaker locations. It may be worth trying some of those tweeter and mids pods you can get on eBay but not sure it's worth the money. The tweeter pods on their own however would be a nice cheaper alternative than having someone fiberglass my a-pillars. 

I'll run this for a bit and see which route I decide to take. 
As far as the hybrid tweeters, they were ok, I just had a hard time making them sound good on or off axis. I liked the unity mids, just not a fan of the tweeters. 



















































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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

What’s your crossovers like?


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> What’s your crossovers like?


I'm playing with them right around 175hz/24. The mids are handling them just fine and I'm getting no vibrations or buzzing. Really enjoying the power handling and being able to cross them over so low. I have 3 settings at the moment with the tweeters, one at 2500hz/24, 5000hz/24, and 7000hz/24 with the mids playing to the same crossover point at 24db. It was just some quick testing today. 

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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Do all 24db lr mid/tw do 2250 mid/mb do 300-500 and then mb/sub 70-80. Make sure to read Andy’s tuning guide


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Motown65 said:


> Do all 24db lr mid/tw do 2250 mid/mb do 300-500 and then mb/sub 70-80. Make sure to read Andy’s tuning guide


Yeah, I have the dayton mic w/ rew but I've just been too lazy to really get deep into the tuning. I'm interested in what you have your time alignment set at, if you have somewhat the same locations.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

I haven’t even started on my install lol. I’ve been too busy with work and making more power. Also sorta waiting on Andy to release another product or two. For time alignment you just need to measure though so it is what it is.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Any updates?


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## Valdemar (Aug 19, 2014)

In for updates.
I must have missed it, but whats the whp after tuning?
I got my wrx in November and havent been itching too much to upgrade since I have the HK and it's not terrible. But I do want to fit these intimid8rs in the doors after some heavy deadening work. 

Props on playing with different setups!

I really like the DRL Bezels too. It's a clean look.


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## Motown65 (Jun 29, 2012)

Do you have measurements on the front doors? I haven’t pulled mine off yet but I haven’t ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> I don't think anyone is following this build but I'll continue anyway. Lol


Glad you chose that path mate!
You never know when someone else with a similar mindset will roll up 

I have an MY17 and a wardrobe full of quite nice audio gear with a thick layer of dust on it! I've had my time majorly eaten away by DIY renovations to a new house.

I'll admit that I am a little unsure of how I want to install everything as well. 'Unsure' both in where everything should go; but also whether or not differing install options are possibly a little more advanced than my skill level will allow!

Anyway I'll get back to reading your build log, cheers for the thread man...and props on that amplifier location! Some smart thinking and some clean ass wiring mate...nice 

Peace


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## Djtank (May 21, 2015)

‘17 wrx here ice silver like your ‘15. I’m curious how did 1 15” sound better than 2 15” in an IB setup? I’m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15” IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

Djtank said:


> â€˜17 wrx here ice silver like your â€˜15. Iâ€™m curious how did 1 15â€� sound better than 2 15â€� in an IB setup? Iâ€™m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15â€� IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.


G'day mate...I was just reading through the build log and didn't realise that 'Elvis had left the building' on this one. My apologies for dragging up an old thread mate. All the same your question is of interest to me.

I will be honest that I am no professional on any of this car audio type stuff - but I'm not a dumbass either; if I'm commenting on this forum then I have some idea what the topic is about - but all the same I have just a 'predisposition' towards cringing when someone says 'IB subs'. I do not doubt that I lack knowledge in the IB design arena...but I just have had the feeling overall that IB is a dreadful waste of a subs potential?

If you are inclined at all mate I'd appreciate you letting me know what your affinity for the IB arrangement is...theoretically it does this and that; but I have just not felt that in a practical environment results would be better IB than ported or sealed. 

Especially with an IDMAX...doesn't the spec sheet say 'best suited to sealed enclosures'? Only questioning and hoping to learn mate; no offence intended 



Motown65 said:


> Do you have measurements on the front doors? I haven’t pulled mine off yet but I haven’t ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8


Not sure if you are still about mate but would be interested in how your build has taken shape...? I listed on here a while back that I had some gear but lacked enthusiasm, time, a decent design, and a little bit of FOFU...(fear of mucking up...I think the morphing f to m is reasonably obviously!). Any news on how yours has taken shape would be welcome man 

With no offence intended I sort of thought the concept of putting 8's in the door had sort of 'been done' already and been proven as not necessary if you get a good 6.5" that can handle some power and frequency range...? Especially of note is beer mans constant reference to the flimsy construction of WRX...goddam when I take the interior carpet panels out it looks like piddly sheet metal! The potential for rattles and just 'overwhelming the door space' seems like a genuine statement.

As it does for the entire car. I know you want to keep stuff like sound deadening to a minimum due to weight (especially if you are dropping a turbo on it already? FML man do you have a build log on your engine shenanigans! i'd love to have a read....). I'm the same...I think in America you would call it like a Stage 2+ or something that I have done on my WRX; but anyway the thought of adding possibly 100kg all up if you have a decent system (220 pounds) is really counter productive to all the dollars dropped in the engine bay!

Love to hear any thoughts mate 

Peace gents


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Sorry, I've been in the middle of purchasing a house and was debating whether selling the car or not for something cheaper. I've pulled out some things to get it ready to sell but now I'm not sure again. lol. I've been messing around with a few different setups along the way. 

I removed the Minidsp and decided to just run the DSP of the HU. I also removed some amps and just added an Arc Audio XDi1100.1 and 600.4. 

For speakers I tried the Hybrid Clarus mids with some cheap kicker coaxials in the dash, it actually sounded okay but there was definitely some blurring of the midrange and highs. 

I then tried the Clarus mids with the Dayton PS95 full range mids in the dash and it just sounded terrible. I think they'd do much better on-axis but off the windshield they're just terrible. 

Then I decided to try out a more traditional 2way setup with SB Acoustic mids in the doors and some dayton tweeters in the dash. It was ok but not at all what I'm used to. The Clarus mids had better midbass but the SB Acoustics I felt sounded a little better up high. 

I then was hoping to try out some possibly more midrange friendly mids with a large format tweeter, so I grabbed a pair of Dayton RS180P mids and Dayton RST28A aluminum tweeters. This is currently what I have in my car and it sounds ok, the main issue is volume. I forgot how much of a difference going 3way was volume wise. Once again, the setup is ok. Once we move in to our new place (which I'll finally have a large garage to work in!), I'll most likely reinstall the miniDSP, this time also adding the upgraded board that I've had sitting around and see how much of a difference it makes. From there, since the miniDSP will be installed I'll most likely go back to 3way with a budget Dayton Audio setup until I decide if I'm keeping the car or not. 

If I do keep the car, a full Audiofrog 3way will be going in along with all the other performance parts I have sitting around. 

Sorry for the delay in update, it's just been crazy over the last few months.




Motown65 said:


> Do you have measurements on the front doors? I haven’t pulled mine off yet but I haven’t ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8


I don't have measurements but an 8 would be very hard to fit without extensive modifications. There would definitely need to be some metal cutting and cutting of the door panel itself. The inner door panel doesn't allow much more than a 6.5 to fit, the door grille also slightly blocks some of the speaker cone on a 6.5.



captainbuff said:


> Glad you chose that path mate!
> You never know when someone else with a similar mindset will roll up
> 
> I have an MY17 and a wardrobe full of quite nice audio gear with a thick layer of dust on it! I've had my time majorly eaten away by DIY renovations to a new house.
> ...


Thanks brotha, sorry I took a bit of a hiatus. I obviously have a very limited skill level as well but it's always fun trying out new things. Good luck!



Djtank said:


> â€˜17 wrx here ice silver like your â€˜15. Iâ€™m curious how did 1 15â€� sound better than 2 15â€� in an IB setup? Iâ€™m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15â€� IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.


The two ID subs were definitely louder in my IB setup but I also had more rattles that annoyed me, as well as it just didn't sound as tight/clean overall. Maybe the trunk wasn't enough airspace for both? I'm not sure how the IDMAX's would work though. I have an IDMAX 12 that I want to throw in a ported box or get a second and go IB as well. But we'll see...too many ideas in my head..lol



captainbuff said:


> G'day mate...I was just reading through the build log and didn't realise that 'Elvis had left the building' on this one. My apologies for dragging up an old thread mate. All the same your question is of interest to me.
> 
> I will be honest that I am no professional on any of this car audio type stuff - but I'm not a dumbass either; if I'm commenting on this forum then I have some idea what the topic is about - but all the same I have just a 'predisposition' towards cringing when someone says 'IB subs'. I do not doubt that I lack knowledge in the IB design arena...but I just have had the feeling overall that IB is a dreadful waste of a subs potential?
> 
> ...


I've listed some of the new iterations above. As far as going IB, sealed, or ported, it's all dependent on the sub and what your preference in sound is. They all have benefits and I'm ALWAYS switching to find the perfect substage but I always feel something is missing. The best sub setups I think I've had were a TC Sounds TC-3000 and Avalanche ported, followed by the single ID sub IB. So maybe it's time to go back to ported. lol


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

G'day mate, good to hear from you man! 

Sorry for the delay in replying…for some reason DIYMA doesn’t like me commenting on anything (it probably has good judgement ) and a lot of the time just craps out when I try to submit a reply…lucky I took a copy of this all before trying to post it because it did the same thing again (and I REALLY didn’t want to write this all again!) :laugh:



beerdrnkr said:


> Sorry, I've been in the middle of purchasing a house


Say no more. Dam...I think I mentioned somewhere that I have had to put my car audio plans to the bottom of the list because of renovations to my house...I don't know about anyone else but I always have a few things that I want my way in a house. I'm no idiot with a hammer and a drill so I have a go at most jobs...and I think I do a pretty reasonable job for a guy who doesn't do that work for a living...it just takes three times as long and there always seem to be another two or three things added to the list once I finish one :laugh:



beerdrnkr said:


> I've been messing around with a few different setups along the way.
> 
> I then tried the Clarus mids with the Dayton PS95 full range mids in the dash and it just sounded terrible. I think they'd do much better on-axis but *off the windshield they're just terrible.*


Thanks for the feedback on the differing drivers in differing configurations! I've just read back through them all and it's really valuable information man, greatly appreciated! If I could ask only one question it would have to be (assuming active three way front stage): after all Gains, TA, EQ and whatever else are set...would you be happy with the mid range in the factory location?

I understand the difficulty inherent in answering that as well! So many variables and and so subjective...

The importance to me is that I had all but ruled out installing the mid range in the factory location due to being so far off axis with potential for negative (beaming I think it is called?) off the windscreen. The paradox I was faced with was that fabricating an a pillar with a mid range and tweeter for a spanking new Scoobie Doo was beyond my skills; yet a local company wanted $1.5k Ausssie Dollars (~$1.2k USD) to do it (GTFO ).

On reading your build I am much more confident of at the least giving the factory location a go! It also helped expose the stupidity of the paradox I had created...which is better: gear sitting in your wardrobe because you don't like the location of one component, or gear in your car making noise and possibly you might have to compensate or just make do? Like I said...a bit of FOFU set in.

Just the top of your head thoughts are fine mate  

I kinda do this sometimes where I write stuff down and wind up answering my own question :laugh:



beerdrnkr said:


> I don't have measurements but an 8 would be very hard to fit without extensive modifications. There would definitely need to be some metal cutting and cutting of the door panel itself. The inner door panel doesn't allow much more than a 6.5 to fit, the door grille also slightly blocks some of the speaker cone on a 6.5.


+1. Just IMHO if you are wanting 8's in the door then you need better 6.5's or sound deadening or something else is letting you down. Speaking from SQ/SQL land!



beerdrnkr said:


> The two ID subs were definitely louder in my IB setup but I also had more rattles that annoyed me, as well as it just didn't sound as tight/clean overall. Maybe the trunk wasn't enough airspace for both? I'm not sure how the IDMAX's would work though. I have an IDMAX 12 that I want to throw in a ported box or get a second and go IB as well. But we'll see...too many ideas in my head..lol


LMAO...man I have modeled my IDMAX 12's probably 30-40 times!! I have to say that I could not come to a ported solution that I liked (but I have some bad OCD issues ). I think when I was modeling way back I had a certain CAD design drawn out that I loved and I was dead set against circular ports so I was basically modeling with too many constraints! 

I will go back to the modeling board at some point and have a look at a ported solution again...at the end of the day I am happy with just a simple 55 litre (1.5 cubic feet) sealed box. My preference in music is rock - so I really am not after the low end extension of a ported solution so much - hey; I'm not for or against it and until I actually finish the house off it isn't going to find traction so it's all good! I would really like to invert their sexc ass's though 

That is another BIG issue though that I think you mentioned a few times through your build. *rattles*. Anytime I take off an interior panel I just see an al foil external panel begging for some CLD! The entire boot (trunk) is BAD. Doors seem slightly better but they will still need a heap of treating...I have five boxes of Dynamat gathering dust as well...I think I could lose most of those just in the trunk space!

Dam mate...cheers for your updates and replies ay  appreciate the thoughts and the actual decent feedback from someone who has been through it...and then some! I only intend to install my gear and then enjoy...music is my life (I think my avatar is my drum kit...well; half of it anyway) but I don't spend a heap of time enjoying it inside my car so I really just want to do the best job I can first time around and then move along...

...yeah like that's going to happen!

Cheers mate, throw down any updates you have and I'll put my gear in and throw some photos up here one day as well! Good luck with your house - for real if I could tell you one sensible thing - just move in and be happy with what's there. Serious I ripped out the backyard and a heap of the kitchen within a few months of moving in...that was nearly two years ago! It is just a Pandora's Box of time and money. Especially for a DIY inclined guy!

Cheers mate
Peace
Josh


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> Pioneer NEX-2440 headunit
> 
> MiniDSP 8x12 processor
> 
> ...


Apologies for the double post but I forgot to mention/query...

Not sure about the 2018 models (I think they stayed pretty much the same as the 2015/2016/2017); but I have a 100 Amp Alternator and a near new battery. Understood that the above components have all changed, that you are working with a lot of headroom, and that they are sexually explicit to read :laugh: (if I want HAT's or AA gear I have to buy from over Eastern Australia and get it freighted); but my query was obviously on current draw issues.

There is a fair amount of power being pushed around there...any notable upgrades to the stock charging system? My apologies as I remember reading how you connected your power cable but I don't remember mention of anything else (Big 3, extra battery etc.). I don't think you added any so just querying if you upgraded the stock battery...or if you indeed did anything to the charging system?

Reason I ask is - I'll try to keep this short but it possibly is a little interesting - with WRX's in Australia there are a pile of things that they have to change (it's either so they meet 'Australian Standards' or because they are just the sort of things that you are going to want to change anyway...or a combo of both...idk entirely). Stuff like the battery, tyres, all fluids, (brake pads I think?) not sure about the entire list.

Anyway in true 'corporate greed' fashion they replace them with the cheapest rubbish you can get. Dunlop tyres, my mums Toyota Corolla has a bigger battery than mine (in terms of CCA etc.)...just stupid stuff that means you have to drop another couple grand to get 'performance quality' gear in certain places. It's accepted as part of the 'price to play'. Doesn't mean Subaru aren't a bunch of runts though...

So the point being I have only done 13,000 km's (~8,000 miles?) in my WRX and the battery has crapped out. It's a daily driver but I am retired so it doesn't get driven to work every day or whatever ('retired' is another long and more boring story!) and I keep good care of it. Still...battery crapped it and when I looked at it I think it was like barely 300 CCA or something. Just a bucket of ship.

So I'm interested in what the 'US spec' WRX's have in the charging department (I doubt the alternator would be different but the battery indubitably is); and like I said if you upgraded anything charging system related.

Cheers mate...appreciate the build log!
Peace
Josh

(Ctrl+A, Ctrl+C...cheers DIYMA...)


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

The IDMax15 models GREAT for IB, specifically in a WRX trunk. If you give it enough power, the large XMAX really helps it over others in simulation. However, I have settled on (2) AE SBP-15. They are reported as sounding great and in modeling they don't NEED a lot of power since they are more sensitive. I'm not finished with the doors but am confident that my 8"s will fit. Well, the FaitalPro 8 will fit. The Stevens Audio 8 . . . not a chance. Eric has a nice, beefy driver but wasn't designed for WRX doors. LOL. So, I'm throwing the FaitalPro's in the doors while I finish the rest of the system. I'll take my time in building kickpanels for the Stevens 8.


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

captainbuff said:


> G'day mate, good to hear from you man!
> 
> Sorry for the delay in replying…for some reason DIYMA doesn’t like me commenting on anything (it probably has good judgement ) and a lot of the time just craps out when I try to submit a reply…lucky I took a copy of this all before trying to post it because it did the same thing again (and I REALLY didn’t want to write this all again!) :laugh:
> 
> ...


Definitely, yeah I'd love to see what you come up with. I've seen some pretty awesome builds with this platform. 

As for the house, I already have the new flooring picked out and my wife must've won the lottery with all the other upgrades she wants to do. lol. Pretty sure the house will be a slow process but the garage gym and two Emotiva home theater systems are just about ready to go (priorities...)! Thanks for the comments.



captainbuff said:


> Apologies for the double post but I forgot to mention/query...
> 
> Not sure about the 2018 models (I think they stayed pretty much the same as the 2015/2016/2017); but I have a 100 Amp Alternator and a near new battery. Understood that the above components have all changed, that you are working with a lot of headroom, and that they are sexually explicit to read :laugh: (if I want HAT's or AA gear I have to buy from over Eastern Australia and get it freighted); but my query was obviously on current draw issues.
> 
> ...





nyquistrate said:


> The IDMax15 models GREAT for IB, specifically in a WRX trunk. If you give it enough power, the large XMAX really helps it over others in simulation. However, I have settled on (2) AE SBP-15. They are reported as sounding great and in modeling they don't NEED a lot of power since they are more sensitive. I'm not finished with the doors but am confident that my 8"s will fit. Well, the FaitalPro 8 will fit. The Stevens Audio 8 . . . not a chance. Eric has a nice, beefy driver but wasn't designed for WRX doors. LOL. So, I'm throwing the FaitalPro's in the doors while I finish the rest of the system. I'll take my time in building kickpanels for the Stevens 8.
> 
> View attachment 243445
> 
> ...


I've heard AE subs in the past and have read nothing but rave reviews about them so I'm sure you'll be happy. Do you have a build log? How do the Faital's sound, they're not a true "midbass woofer" correct? How far do they dig down? I'm sure if they go down to atleast 63hz-70hz it should still sound amazing especially most likely being low sensitivity.


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

beerdrnkr said:


> I've heard AE subs in the past and have read nothing but rave reviews about them so I'm sure you'll be happy. Do you have a build log? How do the Faital's sound, they're not a true "midbass woofer" correct? How far do they dig down? I'm sure if they go down to atleast 63hz-70hz it should still sound amazing especially most likely being low sensitivity.


I'm waiting to have a little more finished product before making a log. I have a few hundred pictures of behind-the-scene build stuff.

I don't expect the FaitalPro to dig deep like typical 'car audio' midbass drivers. They're more on the high efficiency route like pro audio. They are 95 dB (1 Watt) with only 80 Hz Fs. Anyway, it wasn't so much about this particular driver as much as an example of what can fit by cutting a larger hole. Here's the info if you're interested in dimensions:

https://www.parts-express.com/faita...p6YPJAmbBQRRZYPqMF3B9aScqPXuN4hEaArNAEALw_wcB


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

So I decided to keep the WRX and keep going with the build (performance and audio). I still have TGV/EGR Deletes and a Charge Pipe but I'll need another tune which gets a little pricey. 

So I wanted to keep it as stock looking as possible and playing around with some different configurations. So I placed some Dayton mids and tweets right next to each other and I have Dayton mids in the doors. I'm running an arc xdi1200.6 and 1100.1. I have the same 3 Dayton 10s in a sealed box that I've had for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.

I tried installing my c-dsp 8x12 but for whatever reason I can't get it to work. It was working when I pulled it out. I replaced the old board with the new and I can't get it to link to my computer. I tried two different USB cables, I used a standard phone cable to hook up to the mini DSP controller (I cut the original) which I don't know if it works or not but the LED light on the controller isn't turning on. I'm going to see if there's an audio shop with a test bench that can see if the mini DSP is working or not. I'm thinking of just doing an all Dayton setup and just running the Dayton DSP if the mini DSP doesn't work. 

I cut holes again in the stock grilles and wrapped them with some grille cloth and cut some of the foam padding in the dash mat to also let the speakers breathe. I'm running 3way off the pioneer hu only and splitting the sub RCA's to the sub amp and mids, midbass running mono. It sounds pretty good actually but a real DSP will really make a difference. 

I have a spare battery on its way that I'll throw in the back just for extra juice. I might plan on throwing in the xdi600.4 and bridging the mids and midbass. 

I didn't take many photos but I cut the material back on the grilles so they look a lot cleaner. They're also covered by the dash mat so they're hidden either way. 

Just thought I'd give a quick update before work. Any tips on what might be wrong with the mini DSP please let me know.





































Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> So I decided to keep the WRX and keep going with the build (performance and audio). I still have TGV/EGR Deletes and a Charge Pipe but I'll need another tune which gets a little pricey.


Nice...I'm sure I have mentioned that I live in Oz...but how much does a tune set you back in the States? I don't know a huge amount about engines; but from journeying around YouTube everyone in the States seems to get a Cobb AP. They can be bought in Oz but I don't think many guys get them (if any...). The superiority of a proper tune is just accepted I think. Problem being that it is $1.5k Australian ($1k USD) a pop for an EcuTEK tune...



beerdrnkr said:


> So I placed some Dayton mids and tweets right next to each other and I have Dayton mids in the doors. I'm running an arc xdi1200.6 and 1100.1. I have the same 3 Dayton 10s in a sealed box that I've had for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.
> 
> I tried installing my c-dsp 8x12 but for whatever reason I can't get it to work.
> 
> ...


Cheers for the update man...sorry I can't be much help with the miniDSP. I did look into them about 5-6 years ago. 'Reliability' struck me as their issue...

Interesting way of getting the mid bass running (splitting the sub RCA's)...maybe I'm a little slow but I'd have to see a proper schematic to see where you've set cross overs (both where in the signal chain and where in the frequency range) to really understand it; but I can think of a number of ways to do it so it's all good. If it sounds good then sweet 

Just IMHO...hell yeah that needs a DSP! Splitting RCA's and running a 3 way front with mono mid bass reminds me of my younger days 'dodgy-ing' something together with whatever I had on hand  no offence intended at all mate...just having a laugh! 

After all...at least your gear is in your car...not collecting dust in a wardrobe whilst I soundproof a bedroom for my drum kit because all my neighbours are members of the 'fun police'. Seriously I love listening to your dog bark all night; what was I thinking playing a musical instrument...cunch of bunts.

Love the feedback on the three 10's though...I was told to go that way by a reputable car audio retailer here in Oz...starting to think I should have listened! Appreciate the update all the same mate, cheers :rockon:


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

captainbuff said:


> Nice...I'm sure I have mentioned that I live in Oz...but how much does a tune set you back in the States? I don't know a huge amount about engines; but from journeying around YouTube everyone in the States seems to get a Cobb AP. They can be bought in Oz but I don't think many guys get them (if any...). The superiority of a proper tune is just accepted I think. Problem being that it is $1.5k Australian ($1k USD) a pop for an EcuTEK tune...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well I've had the cdsp-6x8 and 8x12 and never had any reliability issues, I have a feeling it may be my own screw up. 

So the Pioneer has a pretty limited crossover, I believe I have the tweeters crossed over at 5khz, the mids from 250 or 300hz-5khz, and the sub outputs are from 250hz down, all at 24db slopes. 

The sub outputs are then split to the amp for the midbass and the sub amp. The sub amp is low passed around 70hz or so and the midbass is high passed around the same on through the amp. 

Time alignment is done through the HU, however, time aligning the midbass also does it to the sub so that's where things get a little out of whack in my system. Overall it sounds decent but a processor is definitely a must. Hope that somewhat clears things up. lol



As far as performance goes, the COBB usually you can get for around $400 and an E-Tune costs $250-$350ish depending on the tuner. The dyno tune cost me around $400-$450 if I remember correctly, but it's the better route to go if you can get a dyno tune.


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> Well I've had the cdsp-6x8 and 8x12 and never had any reliability issues, I have a feeling it may be my own screw up.


All the best with it mate...actually when I think it was probably closer to a decade ago that I looked at miniDSP...as I remember they had one product that some guys were using with success in car audio and were about to release something more specialised to the 'car audio industry'. Apologies as I might have sounded a little 'anti-miniDSP'! That's not the case at all; if they work for you (or any others) then that's all good with me!



beerdrnkr said:


> So the Pioneer has a pretty limited crossover, I believe I have the tweeters crossed over at 5khz, the mids from 250 or 300hz-5khz, and the sub outputs are from 250hz down, all at 24db slopes.
> 
> The sub outputs are then split to the amp for the midbass and the sub amp. The sub amp is low passed around 70hz or so and the midbass is high passed around the same on through the amp.
> 
> Time alignment is done through the HU, however, time aligning the midbass also does it to the sub so that's where things get a little out of whack in my system. Overall it sounds decent but a processor is definitely a must. Hope that somewhat clears things up. lol


LMAO...when I was visualising how I would do what you described that's pretty much exactly what I would have done! 

With the exception of fourth order slopes though (I'm assuming LR...?). Certainly a 'sub sonic' filter for subs I would set for 24dB (or higher if available). If in doubt definitely protect your drivers and go for fourth order LR slopes! 

I was advised by the retailer that I bought most of my gear from to aim for 12 and even 6db/octave slopes...and when I queried him as to WTH? he replied 'it is always vehicle and system specific; however (in his experience) using longer roll offs made the overall response easier to control'. 

I am only speaking theoretically though as I haven't installed a system in years...I first have to get my gear into my WRX before then reading back up on REW (if I can be bothered going to that extreme).

By no means saying yours are wrong mate; just maybe something that may be useful :2thumbsup: 



beerdrnkr said:


> As far as performance goes, the COBB usually you can get for around $400 and an E-Tune costs $250-$350ish depending on the tuner. The dyno tune cost me around $400-$450 if I remember correctly, but it's the better route to go if you can get a dyno tune.


Cheers for that...sorry I think different people call it differing things (or maybe I don't know what to call anything :lol but a 'dyno tune' as you call it is what I am referring to. Down under the set rate is about $1k USD so that compares OK with the dollars you are talking about. 

Appreciate the update mate and whenever you get around to testing any other bits and pieces an update would be appreciated!

Cheers


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

captainbuff said:


> All the best with it mate...actually when I think it was probably closer to a decade ago that I looked at miniDSP...as I remember they had one product that some guys were using with success in car audio and were about to release something more specialised to the 'car audio industry'. Apologies as I might have sounded a little 'anti-miniDSP'! That's not the case at all; if they work for you (or any others) then that's all good with me!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've played with different slopes in the past however I haven't recently just because I don't have the processing to push the system even further. 

Yeah the Dyno tune is better to have because it's actually being done in real time with the tuner. Better then sending them logs through emails and getting revisions to the tune over and over again. 

I'll be installing the EGR/TGV Deletes soon. The tuner I used previously moved out of California so I'll have to look for someone else now. 

I have a Dayton DSP, controller, and wifi adapter on its way so it'll be a full Dayton audio setup soon. 

I also added little grilles to the stock dash grilles to make them a little more rigid, with just grille cloth the dash mat would sort of sink into the speaker opening. Adding the mesh really helped clean things up a little. Looking like a solid budget setup for now, I do have some audiofrog gear waiting in the wings though if I ever decide to take things up a notch! Lol






























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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Thanks for the pics. i have a 2013 but the speaker locations are the same. I personally grabbed the machined aluminum tweeter pod and aim it to the passenger head on my side /driver head on opposite. Much better response than on the dash which boost 4-6 kg and roll off after 12k.

Eventually I plan to add a midrange like the 2.5" morel or similar but on axis to 15* off really helps it sound natural and flatter. Not best pic but I had them. If curious, let me know. I also have been looking for interior parts that look less cheap as well but 2013s were even worse


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

tyroneshoes said:


> Thanks for the pics. i have a 2013 but the speaker locations are the same. I personally grabbed the machined aluminum tweeter pod and aim it to the passenger head on my side /driver head on opposite. Much better response than on the dash which boost 4-6 kg and roll off after 12k.
> 
> Eventually I plan to add a midrange like the 2.5" morel or similar but on axis to 15* off really helps it sound natural and flatter. Not best pic but I had them. If curious, let me know. I also have been looking for interior parts that look less cheap as well but 2013s were even worse


Thanks for the info! I did grab some tweeter housings from madisound but I wanted to see how good I could get the stock locations to sound before going that route. I think I'm also going to get the accessport mount that mounts on the drivers side defroster which might cause some issues with either dash or pillar mounted tweeters. 

I'd like to see how good I can have it sounding with factory locations and mediocre equipment before going all in. lol. 

I've played with mids in the dash and tweeters in the a-pillars which sounded pretty good but the next route which I haven't had a chance to try would be a 3" or 4" concentric mid in one of those housings like you posted. 

Are you just running two way at the moment?


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

beerdrnkr said:


> Thanks for the info! I did grab some tweeter housings from madisound but I wanted to see how good I could get the stock locations to sound before going that route. I think I'm also going to get the accessport mount that mounts on the drivers side defroster which might cause some issues with either dash or pillar mounted tweeters.
> 
> I'd like to see how good I can have it sounding with factory locations and mediocre equipment before going all in. lol.
> 
> ...


Yep. Just running esb 8000 2 way (previous version).

https://www.esbcar.com/8000-series

i agree that a 3" coaxial or a 2" that actually can play high would be the best solution. Custom fab or pods


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

New toys came in 

Hopefully I can install it sometime next week.










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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Let me know if you have noise with the dayton dsp


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

tyroneshoes said:


> Let me know if you have noise with the dayton dsp


Will do!

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Got some more things done over the last two days. Installed a COBB Accessport mount, added an amplifier, extra battery, DSP, and rebuilt my amp rack. 

Because I wanted to add an additional amp and battery, I had to come up with a way to make everything fit in the spare tire area. The Arc 1200.6 and 1100.1 are the same size so I decided to use some threaded rod and stack them which saved me some valuable real estate. 

I also found a way to fit the spare battery, it's not fully bolted down yet but it definitely isn't moving anywhere. I also didn't have any carpet on hand, so hopefully when I'm not feeling to lazy I can order some and wrap it but it probably won't be for a while. I'd also like to add a couple of fans if possible. 

More good news, when I first turned everything on, I wasn't getting any power to the Dayton DSP, so after some trouble shooting I found an issue with the relay and everything fired right up, that means that my MiniDSP 8x12 most likely works as well! I'll leave the Dayton installed a while but may switch in the future. 

The Dayton processor is great, no pops or whine, the noise floor is minimal but it is there, I haven't dialed in my gains or anything yet, so that may be the issue. Overall, with a very quick setup and tune, it sounds awesome! I have headroom for days as well with all the additional power. 

Here is how the system currently sits: 

Pioneer HU

Dayton DSP

Arc Audio 1200.6 bridged to Dayton RS100P 4" in dash, the other two channels are on the Dayton ND16FA tweeters also in the dash.

Arc Audio 600.4 bridged to Dayton RS180P 7" in doors.

Arc Audio 1100.1 on (3) Dayton RSS265HO 10's in a sealed box. I also have a ported box for (2) 10's that I will play around with in the future. 

Kinetic HC600 Battery


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Photos



















































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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Nice!

Let me know if you get the dayton completely silent


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

tyroneshoes said:


> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you get the dayton completely silent


When the car is cold I get a slight crackle/pop from the dsp but if I get out and then come back and turn the car back on, it doesn't do it. Still haven't had a chance to mess with the gains. 


I decided to mount the remote with hot glue in the little cubby, I like that spot for it since it's so accessable and the remote has very bright blue lighting which this location helps to hide. 

I also wanted to try going ported with two 10s just to see the difference in output. And the output is night and day. Lol























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## WhereAmEye? (Jun 17, 2013)

I had one of those Dayton ho 10” several years ago in a vented box and it was amazing, much less it being like $100. A friend put the box in his Subaru svx and I think it’s still going today. 

Cool build! Tons of power. 


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## killadawg (Apr 29, 2018)

Nice build, I'm in the process of hooking up my 2016 system. 

Front stage: Hertz 280.3 pillars, Audiofrog GB25 in dash, Hertz 1650.3 doors. 

Rear Hertz 1650.3 and Audiofrog GB10D4 in sealed trunk box. 

8to12 Aerospace, AS 100.4 and 5/30 ... need to add them pillar pods for the tweeters. I also have an additional Zapco LX 4 ch. Yet the AS 100 fits under the drivers seat.. I've managed to keep a full sized spare and hide all components ( I cut the foam flooring to fit the 5/30 and the dsp is under the passenger seat and rcd is in mid console).. I've yet to set gains or power up..


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

killadawg said:


> Nice build, I'm in the process of hooking up my 2016 system.
> 
> Front stage: Hertz 280.3 pillars, Audiofrog GB25 in dash, Hertz 1650.3 doors.
> 
> ...


Nice, that system should sound great! 

I was thinking about selling and picking up a truck, still debating. Changing up the system AGAIN, lol, I'll be running the Audiofrog 4" coaxials in the dash and some SB Acoustic 6 1/2s I have in the doors. I'll still be using the arc 6ch amp bridged on the doors and 2 channels on the mids. 

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## killadawg (Apr 29, 2018)

I've modified mine too much and would never get my $$ back if I sold mine off. I do sometimes wish I had a more capable vehicle. The rex is fun and I've fixed all the OEM issues, yet I miss having better ground clearance living in the PNW. can't have everything can we ;-).. best of luck


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Idk if its been covered but facing the subs forward like that isn't going to give you a very good response.

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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

G'day guys,

Mate...home renovations...that it is a Pandora's Box and I am still up to my eyeballs in it...really getting 'over it'. Before I caught up on following posts I wanted to say that those are some really slick and nicely laid out and wired up units in the Post 73 photos...tidy man. 'God is in the detail' - any clown can throw a pile of gear into a car - but making it look as slick as that REALLY shows both skill/planning and/or a nice serve of OCD ? just joking mate, looks exquisite....

Sorry it is unrelated to the website...but do you have any hp/torque numbers for your engine mods? I don't know if I made it blatantly obvious enough that I am not mechanically minded ? yeah...but I have done a lot more research on the mechanical side of things and I know where the issues are with my mods and tune. What I find interesting is the numbers that some guys will claim vs the readouts from differing dyno's vs watching the car do a run...



killadawg said:


> Nice build, I'm in the process of hooking up my 2016 system.
> 
> Front stage: Hertz 280.3 pillars, Audiofrog GB25 in dash, Hertz 1650.3 doors.
> 
> ...


+1. Mad system mate...see below...



killadawg said:


> I've modified mine too much and would never get my $$ back if I sold mine off. I do sometimes wish I had a more capable vehicle. The rex is fun and I've fixed all the OEM issues, yet I miss having better ground clearance living in the PNW. can't have everything can we ;-).. best of luck


Not sure what PNW is but 'we pay to play'. Treat the money you spend on your wheels as disposable...because you will have just disposed of it! In favour of some cool things...but reality sucks...

With that said I haven't checked around the forum here yet; but have you done a build log mate? Would really love to have a look at how you have installed your system and what tips/tricks/fubars you had...that is some really high quality gear mate ?



Jscoyne2 said:


> Idk if its been covered but facing the subs forward like that isn't going to give you a very good response.
> 
> Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


Says who?
I'm sorry...can you point me towards the 'Ten Car Audio Commandments' that state that 'that isn't going to give a very good response'?
Mate...if a brother is putting the type of gear and time and money into his build like this man has - documented for the benefit of others like myself - then I'm pretty sure he has tried a couple of different sub locations and that *HE PERSONALLY *finds this position to be the best sounding.
I mean no offence as I do understand what you are getting at; however I really dislike 'one liner blanket statements'. It doesn't take into account personal preference, car design, overall car layout, acoustic response from all drivers...where do you want me to stop?
I'll stop with statements like that are just confusing for newer guys to car audio. I feel the second biggest issue in car audio is *misinformation or subjective information *(the biggest being shonky distributors, retailers and installers IMHO) that leaves guys confused or without the full story.

Peace mate ?


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## killadawg (Apr 29, 2018)

I have a kinda outdated build page here: 









Killadawg 09's 2016 Subaru WRX on Wheelwell


View photos, mods, and the story behind Killadawg 09's 2016 Subaru WRX on Wheelwell.




wheelwell.com




I'm now self, road tuned and have not raced with my new build. I changed focus.. I went from stage 4 full rallyX build (with ripped out sound system, trim & interior) to a more comfortable DD due to work changes and life ;-).. I now dont care.. I have too much power and rarely use it.. only to get tickets it seems :-(


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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

killadawg said:


> I have too much power


I recognise the words as being English...just not sure what they mean...
LMAO ? yeah man we all go 'backwards' in terms of engine power and audio power (if you want to call it that; depends on perspective!) at some point. Eventually 'life' includes more than just working to repay a car loan or credit card AND the realisation that all that money spent isn't coming back sober us all up a little ? that's a 'grandpa' statement...but reality is I am 39, single and due to hard work in younger years (and a massive slice of good luck) I am retired. There are just more important things that deserve time and money than a car!

DD is a bit of a handful (teehee) but definitely my approach/focus!



killadawg said:


> I have a kinda outdated build page here:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Really appreciate the link man...sheeeeesh that is a pile of work but (only had a quick glimpse) having done all the work yourself...props mate! There are times that I wish I had learnt a little more about engines and just general handyman type jobs around the house...
Then again - I chose to spend the time getting letters I can write after my name and they are what got me PAID - so it is what it is. I just sounded like a massive AH but that wasn't my intention! I can put together a decent car audio system (though upgrades from OEM are becoming a lot harder ever since car manufacturers realised they could cash in on that market); but any work to the engine that is more than standard maintenance involves seeing a reputable installer.

'Reputable Installer' is an oxymoron in my often stated with no intention of being humble's opinion...so again kudos for doing all that work yourself! I'll get on with a read ?

Cheers mate ?


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## killadawg (Apr 29, 2018)

Lol yeah it's all paid for  so no issues with payments etc.. I just have to drive it as my DD and I dont get to track or Rally it anymore. I could easily sell it and get something else, yet I'd lose all that hard work and $$$ I sank into parts. The good thing is that I know exactly what is wrong when it does go south! So far it's been about learning and having fun (especially the part where my kids have to hold the flashlight, turn the key to on, and bring me tools while I'm contorted and blood running from every knuckle and my head!) My last car did 10.04 Qrt mile fastest run 72 Nova.. the wrx I've only tracked on very curvy aurox circuits and rallyx tracks so never really past 3rd gear ;-)..


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

captainbuff said:


> G'day guys,
> 
> Mate...home renovations...that it is a Pandora's Box and I am still up to my eyeballs in it...really getting 'over it'. Before I caught up on following posts I wanted to say that those are some really slick and nicely laid out and wired up units in the Post 73 photos...tidy man. 'God is in the detail' - any clown can throw a pile of gear into a car - but making it look as slick as that REALLY shows both skill/planning and/or a nice serve of OCD ? just joking mate, looks exquisite....
> 
> ...


Yeah, the renovations have been a pain but the house is really coming together now, just have some landscaping in the backyard to take care of and updating the kitchen somewhere down the line. Looks like I'm just going to end up sticking with the WRX for at least a while longer. It's quick enough, even though I've removed the performance parts, AWD, and fun to drive. I have a lot of friends with trucks, I'll just keep bothering them when I need one. lol. I believe I was around 280ish hp and tq on a mustang dyno with the TMIC, intake, turboback exhaust, and EBCS. I never had a chance to install the TGV/EGR Deletes or Charge Pipe that I had. I've removed and sold most of the parts. I did feel that with the mods it kicked you back in your seat a bit more but it's not really that huge of a difference honestly. 

Thanks for the compliments sir! I definitely have gone half ass on wiring and mounting amps in the past but usually it's because I know I'll be swapping gear out a few times within the year, which is what I continue to do. I've received the Audiofrog GS42 coaxials and will be installing those soon. 
Not sure how true that is about the whole response thing but after playing with several different enclosures and positions, with the rear seats folded down, I just have a lot less rattle which is the main reason I have it facing forward. I sound deadened the rear deck a ton and I'm still getting some annoying rattles, I pretty much deadened it the same way I did on my 2015 WRX but for whatever reason that car I was able to get almost completely silent on the rear deck. The extra bass output is nice as well!

Because I thought I was going to get rid of the WRX, which may or may not still happen, I installed the Arc xdi450/4 and 650/1 that I had on hand with some really cheap coaxials in the dash and the Dayton 7" reference mids. Didn't want to trade the car in with the good stuff. 

I'm assuming PNW is Pacific North West?


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## killadawg (Apr 29, 2018)

Yes Pacific Northwest! I also bought a house this last year and doing all the above !! The car is child's play as far a money and time sink compared to the home, as here is where the wife gets to pick her stuff. And damned does she have picky and expensive taste!! never ending story. I'm off to CES but as soon as I get back, I will start my own build log in the forums I ran out of 4ga cable for the rear amp! All else is hooked up and ready to set gains and tuning.


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## alex1002 (Aug 26, 2011)

Love the sound system. But dislike the automatic transmission. Like this is a wrx. Wtf?

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Yeah, I get that all the time but I bought it with only 300 miles on it because someone decided to upgrade to the STi. Got a hell of a deal on it. 

I don't have any issues with my decision, I'm not a high schooler, the jabs don't affect me. Lol

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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Got a little motivation and decided to work on my audio a bit. System is now as follows:

Pioneer Headunit (forgot the model)
Dayton DSP

ARC xdi1200.6
ARC xdi1100.1

Dayton ND16FA tweeters
Dayton RS100P mids
SB Acoustic mids (for now)
Dayton Esoteric 7" mids (future)
Dayton HO 10's (ported)

I wanted the tweeters in the pillars but didn't want them showing so I made some grilles and wrapped them with grille cloth. It actually turned out better than I thought it would. With a quick adjustment of the xovers and TA it sounds awesome so far. I'd like to see how good I can make it sound before I try different tweeters. The Dayton mids sound great firing off the windshield so I'm not in any hurry to swap those out. 

I have some Audiofrog equipment but that'll be installed after I'm done experimenting... 


























































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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> I wanted the tweeters in the pillars but didn't want them showing so I made some grilles and wrapped them with grille cloth.


Just quick...isolation has meant that I may actually get to my install (finally)...but I have to give a pile of thumbs up to the choice of tweeter location! This has been an annoying sticking point for me but your idea here is inspirational mate. Of course it is not ideal in the slightest; but it solves a heap of other problems that tweeters in the A Pillars creates anyway; so that gets my vote of some big props


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

captainbuff said:


> Just quick...isolation has meant that I may actually get to my install (finally)...but I have to give a pile of thumbs up to the choice of tweeter location! This has been an annoying sticking point for me but your idea here is inspirational mate. Of course it is not ideal in the slightest; but it solves a heap of other problems that tweeters in the A Pillars creates anyway; so that gets my vote of some big props


Thanks brotha! This is a complete look of the dash as it currently sits. Everything's sounding great with minimal tuning. The next step will just be to install my minidsp 8x12 and install the audiofrogs and I think I'll be done....at least for a while. 
















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## captainbuff (Mar 11, 2017)

beerdrnkr said:


> Thanks brotha! This is a complete look of the dash as it currently sits. Everything's sounding great with minimal tuning. The next step will just be to install my minidsp 8x12 and install the audiofrogs and I think I'll be done....at least for a while.


Gold. Easy to do (and conversely difficult to screw up; always popular with me!), unobtrusive, clean looking, overall just smooth (no golf balls on tees sticking sideways from the a pillar!)...just easy and all good.
I can't believe I didn't come up with this? I have had this as a major sticking point in the back of my head and just never hit anything close...champion! I have about four big pieces of cabinetry that need a couple of finishing touches then they're over to the painter (just IMHO but I think it is wise to know your limitations...I just can't paint  I can do plenty of difficult things; but I can't paint for ship!). Point being when they are over to him I am going to finally get a start on this *****. Won't be going too fancy as I just want it done; but I have always loved the look of inverted subs...we'll see!
Cheers for the inspiration mate; that is a dead set winner! I'll chronicle as much as possible as there seems to be a decent receptive crew around here; hopefully can get some noise from my boot (trunk) and possibly inspire some others 
Cheers bro, legend!
Peace


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## opekone (Mar 24, 2020)

I like how each time I read through I try to like the same posts. Who makes the dash mat you use?


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

opekone said:


> I like how each time I read through I try to like the same posts. Who makes the dash mat you use?


Haha, thanks. Fortunately/unfortunately I pulled out most of the equipment and ended up trading in the car for a used 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2. I've had it for almost a month and having the bed has already been a big help. Still trying to figure out how I want to go about with the stereo. For now Bose will have to do 

The dash mat for the WRX is from CarID: Dash Designs® - Sedona Suede™ Dash Cover

I'll still be keeping an eye on all the WRX builds on here for sure!























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## opekone (Mar 24, 2020)

Truck looks great, and I don't know how you could ever have that much fun in the Subaru. You definitely need that bed!

Thanks for the tip, I ordered one. One of these days I'll have to get you to take a listen and give some input! 🤙


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## Mauian (Jul 25, 2019)

beerdrnkr said:


> Haha, thanks. Fortunately/unfortunately I pulled out most of the equipment and ended up trading in the car for a used 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2. I've had it for almost a month and having the bed has already been a big help. Still trying to figure out how I want to go about with the stereo. For now Bose will have to do
> 
> The dash mat for the WRX is from CarID: Dash Designs - Sedona Suede Dash Cover
> 
> ...


Sorry if I missed it, but does the dash mat cover up any speakers in the dash?


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## beerdrnkr (Apr 18, 2007)

Mauian said:


> Sorry if I missed it, but does the dash mat cover up any speakers in the dash?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, the dash speakers are covered by the dash mat but it's extremely breathable. Not much restriction on the sound at all. 

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## ryebz81 (5 mo ago)

Great looking build man, I did a similar IB setup in my wrx a while back. Got all new gear now tho and switching up my whole setup. Thinking about doing a spare tire well enclosure w/false floor, amprack(s) in the fender wells maybe. Idk for sure tho, but I like your build log, detailed n ez to follow, not too long winded. Got my synapsis' firing again lol. Thanks, nice work. 🤘


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