# What is the best 6.5 component speakers



## GSINGLETON (Apr 23, 2011)

I have just installed a kenwood 995, JL Audio 12" sub and amp into my car which, is awesome. However, the factory speakers in the front are horrible. I was thinking about the Focal Access component speakers. Looking for opinions on if this will give me a more complete sound or if there is something else out there better.

Thanks for your help


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## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

the h-audio stuff seems to be outstanding. 

honestly, you really didn't give us enough info. Im a total rookie here, but what i have learned is that there is no "best", only what works best for you in your situation and install, and taste, and budget, ect.


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## GSINGLETON (Apr 23, 2011)

Sorry I'm a rookie also so it's like I'm talking French. I listen to a wide variety of music from jazz to reggae. The front speakers I can't hear at all, so all of my sound is coming from behind. I wanted to upgrade the front speakers in hopes that would help. The amp is a 6 channel so I have enough power to drive whichever speakers I get. The speakers I was referring to are Focal Access 130 A1 for $299. I don't know if there is a better or comparable speaker out there. If I have to spend another $100 so be it, but I have already exceed the budget I had for this project.


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## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

LOL, don't even try to figure a budget for car audio. Because you will overshoot it every time. 

it might be helpful for you to list what you have already, and im sure some of these guys will have ideas for you. Six channel amp is a little vague. You could be talking about a small SS Granite 180.6, or a Zed Leviathan. 

The more info you give, the more people will be willing/able to help you. Focal is respected in some circles, hated in others. And every product has similar following/crowd of detractors. Hell, one guy here even sings the praises of his PYLE subs.(and backs it up with data).

There are going to be lots of choices out there, and a lot of guys here are much more qualified than i am to suguest them to you. its all a matter of giving them the right info, and asking nicely!


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## GSINGLETON (Apr 23, 2011)

Hahah ok keep kicking me I will get there. This what I have
2011 Nissan coupe
Head unit-kenwood KDC-X995
SUB-JL AUDIO 12" 12wov24
Ported box
Amp-JL AUDIO G6600 6 channel amp

Factory speakers still in the door and rear parcel shelf. I thought I would change the door out the front first since all the sound is coming from behind. I was hoping this would balance it out if I got a good pair of component speakers in the front. Focal, hertz whatever. Like I said I don't have any idea what I'm doing. I just want good sound.

Thanks for your patience.


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## MDubYa (Feb 17, 2011)

Focal polyglass or hertz hi energy.... Love JL, but the highs on the focal and hertz are way above the JL's


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## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

all your sound is coming from behind....

does that mean your fronts are not working at all, or can be barely heard? 

....sorry, i just like to be sure things are working as they should before i go throwing money and product at it. If something isn't working right as it is now, then you may encounter similar results with the new stuff...


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## GSINGLETON (Apr 23, 2011)

They are working just can't hear them well if I turn the volume up.


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## Jsracing (Apr 1, 2011)

Sounds like your budget is $300, with possible $400 if needed (correct me if I'm wrong).

What type of sound do you like? More forward and bright?...more laid back?...natural and warm? Different brands have different "signature" sounds. Personally I like more natural and warm (not too warm) sound. Focals have great midbasses...pretty forward, but not overly bright so as to get fatiguing too quickly (though I often feel I would get fatigued with prolong listening), but their tweets have always been too harsh for me, even with various attenuation settings and aiming.

My personal favorites in the $300 range are:

Morel Tempo 6
Rainbow SLC 265.25 NG

Both have more neutral/warm sounds and the tweets aren't overly bright (though at the highest setting (+4), the SLCs can be pretty forward).
The Morel Dotech Ovations are great too, but those don't often sell for under $450.

I may be selling my Dotech Ovation or Tempo 6X, so PM me if you're interested. Only reason is I bought more than 1 set of each and I might want to try Dynaudio.


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

I am really digging my new Blues Car Audio component set ... Absolutely amazing !!!


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## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

GSINGLETON said:


> They are working just can't hear them well if I turn the volume up.


does your fader have any effect on this?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Cablguy184 said:


> I am really digging my new Blues Car Audio component set ... Absolutely amazing !!!



Wut?

Almost a grand? I can buy some of the finest Scan-Speak woofers, S-S Illuminator tweeters, and a premium active crossover-processor for that price.

Where's Blues made again?


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

fourthmeal said:


> Wut?
> 
> Almost a grand? I can buy some of the finest Scan-Speak woofers, S-S Illuminator tweeters, and a premium active crossover-processor for that price.
> 
> Where's Blues made again?


Yea, I guess you could buy all that stuff ... Might not sound as good ... But possible ... 
Again, just my suggestion here ... 

All details about the products are on the Blues Car Audio website ... Thanks ...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Doesn't Blues use inductance to roll off the woofer instead of a crossover cell?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Cablguy184 said:


> Yea, I guess you could buy all that stuff ... Might not sound as good ... But possible ...
> Again, just my suggestion here ...
> 
> All details about the products are on the Blues Car Audio website ... Thanks ...


What other gear have you run in the past? And are your speakers even in acoustical phase?


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## b&camp (Jan 27, 2011)

That Blues stuff looks pretty run-of-the-early90s-mill for the price$$$$!


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

fourthmeal said:


> Doesn't Blues use inductance to roll off the woofer instead of a crossover cell?


Not a question for me to answer. Please click on the Blues Car Audio link on my signature and email Ray Rayfield. He should be able to answer your question sir ... But I can say they exceed my expectations for my application ...



Hillbilly SQ said:


> What other gear have you run in the past? And are your speakers even in acoustical phase?


Kicker, Exodus Audio, and a few others ... But nothing Ive ran or competed against in competition compares in sound quality, power handling, stage / image, and dynamic quality for the price ... expecially matched up to a Linear Power 2.2hv or DPS 500 ... 



b&camp said:


> That Blues stuff looks pretty run-of-the-early90s-mill for the price$$$$!


Sound Quality and dynamics is what makes a audio system sound good, not looks bro ... But thats another story ... And to be honest bro, These component sets and drivers look damn good to me. and thats all that counts in my ride ...








LOL ... Just kidding bro ... thank you for checking the product out ...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

And at what point do these awesome speakers fit into a ~$299 price range?


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

If I read correctly ... the title of this thread said this:
*What is the best 6.5 component speakers*

So I gave my suggestion, thats all ... this was it:



Cablguy184 said:


> I am really digging my new Blues Car Audio component set ... Absolutely amazing !!!


after further reading, I think the budget came up to around 300.00 and possible 400.00 AFTER I posted my suggestion ... Then you started in on me and asking all those questions ... 
When did his budget go back to this ??



fourthmeal said:


> And at what point do these awesome speakers fit into a ~$299 price range?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Cablguy184 said:


> If I read correctly ... the title of this thread said this:
> *What is the best 6.5 component speakers*
> 
> So I gave my suggestion, thats all ... this was it:
> ...



Not to make this about you because it isn't but clarification is in order at this point. 

Directly above your post, a discussion about price and models was going on, targeting the 299-399 price point. 

My first post to you was a slightly harsh comment about your speakers going for nearly a grand. Which, as math is showing us, is far more than the OP had in mind. And as we both know, more than its worth, no matter what koolaide is in the water. 


Now, to the OP:

If you really want to get the most for your money, consider the DIY approach and build your own. This is DIYMA afterall, not spend a grand and hope it was worth it. 

Dayton RS180's
Dayton ND20FA

And do it with an active crossover / processor. All done. You can use the rest of the money on things that actually matter.


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## Angrywhopper (Jan 20, 2010)

I vote for the morel temp 6 as well.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

Cablguy184 said:


> When did his budget go back to this ??


I'd say his budget was fairly clear early on.



GSINGLETON said:


> Sorry I'm a rookie also so it's like I'm talking French. I listen to a wide variety of music from jazz to reggae. The front speakers I can't hear at all, so all of my sound is coming from behind. I wanted to upgrade the front speakers in hopes that would help. The amp is a 6 channel so I have enough power to drive whichever speakers I get. *The speakers I was referring to are Focal Access 130 A1 for $299. I don't know if there is a better or comparable speaker out there. If I have to spend another $100 so be it, but I have already exceed the budget I had for this project.*


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> Not to make this about you because it isn't but clarification is in order at this point.
> 
> Directly above your post, a discussion about price and models was going on, targeting the 299-399 price point.
> 
> ...


I'd do the nd28 over the nd20 because the nd20 and rs180 would be stretching both drivers to the ragged edge on crossover points to keep the rs180 from breaking up on the top end and the nd20's from distorting on the low end.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I'd do the nd28 over the nd20 because the nd20 and rs180 would be stretching both drivers to the ragged edge on crossover points to keep the rs180 from breaking up on the top end and the nd20's from distorting on the low end.


Even better!

Or the SB Acoustics neo dimple-dome, or the TB Ceramic, or a widebander...


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

There probably is no such thing as the "best". Speakers are like clothes. Some fit great on one person and on others they don't feel the same. My focus is on high quality sound not winning SPL contests. So I look for a speaker that has good power handling as well as a refined crossover network. What kind of caps are going into the crossover network? Polypropoline is the best etc... I personally have MB Quart 6.5" Premium components which offer great midbass and fantastic high quality midrange and installation flexibility(adjustable tweeter level) screw terminals on all speaker connections on the driver etc.... You can adjust the tweeter output as needed to match your preference. They run about $250 a pair online. There is a upgrade line up that just came out it is the MB Quart 6.5" Q series they sell for $350 pair online at sonicelectronics. Most people are amazed at the high quality sound these have in my Lincoln. MB Quart has been in the industry for years making top quality speakers longer than most others who have only recently come on board. Focal for example is a Eurpean brand that was once only sold here in the speaker building business distribution. They started making drivers for the audio environment years later. That doesn't mean there not good or even better than other just that they haven't beend around as long. We can't always use longevity in the industry and tie it to quality since there are many companies who have been successfull selling entry level car audio products for years. However, I have been using MB Quarts for years and the quality is still there though some feel that since they are now made in Asia that they are not as good as when they were made in Germany. I fully disagree as I have had these for a year now and besides most products we buy are made in China now days their products are made according to our specs and the quality has been very good for quite some time. That's a side issue. Anyway that is my favorite, I just couldn't imagine you not liking the MB Quarts but there are other very good products out there. Unfortunantly ADS is no longer around otherwise I would recommend them too and Mcintosh had some nice components they made for a short time. I've heard the CDT's are pretty good they are available online at woofers etc. They have a very nice selection of speakers on their site so take a look there as well.


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

Sorry for the confusion on my part guys ... I did not want to start anything, was not my intention at all ... 

To the op ... Sorry for messing up your thread bro ... And best of luck with your system !!!


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

If you like the Access, then I'd suggest you get the MB Quart PVI 216 set - If you wanted a good jump from the Access, you would have to spend something like $450 for the Focal 165 V30... 
Properly installed the PVI can sound really smooth. 

Another great deal is the Hybrid Audio Imagine 6 set. I feel that this is the best deal around right now. Can't be beat for the price really... 

Kelvin


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Why the hell are DIYMA members bothering with any suggestion but DIY?


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## jmoney (Apr 28, 2011)

You should look into the hertz lineups. Everything from their entry level dieci series to the the top of the line mille series offer exceptional sound quality and power handling for the price. I personally use the hertx high-energy line on about 100 watts and they sound clean and clear, and the tweeters are not going to drive you crazy.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

By the way, if you want Blues, you can just get Credence to make you a mid, and then slap an LPG tweeter, and then just either build your own passive crossover out of readily-available parts, or you could just go active which would surpass any passive crossover configuration.

Mr. Linkwitz himself said that the only advantage to a passive crossover is cost.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> Why the hell are DIYMA members bothering with any suggestion but DIY?


To reply to the above question - I think that when people ask about which component set is better, I can only assume that they don't have the knowledge nor the equipment to go active. 
Those need to grasp all the knowledge they can get from the forum and play with their passive set - have all drivers to play in phase first. 
From reading the MS-8 thread, a lot of people don't know what "in phase" sound is and when they listen to it, they don't like it coz it sounds mono... 

However, if the OP was asking which tweeter between Vifa or Scan should he go with, then you can assume he has the means to go active. 

Kelvin


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

fourthmeal said:


> By the way, if you want Blues, you can just get Credence to make you a mid, and then slap an LPG tweeter, and then just either build your own passive crossover out of readily-available parts, or you could just go active which would surpass any passive crossover configuration.
> 
> Mr. Linkwitz himself said that the only advantage to a passive crossover is cost.


Do you have true proof of this ??? I made my ammends to the op for what I said ... Why are you starting this ???


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

*Fully Active Crossovers in Mobile Environments - Does it make sense?* I do agree that a fully active system is an "ideal concept" over passive filters. However, it isn't as practical as you might think for both space and economic reasons. For example, a typical install would have a pair of components for the front and another set for the rear plus a sub (or two). A fully active system under this scenario would require a 4 channel amplifier for your front speakers and a second multichannel amplifier (either a 5 or 6 channel amp) to handle your rear speakers and subwoofer. That's 10 channels of amplification! If you decide to use two channel amps that's 5 amplifiers! Such an active system doubles your cost for amplification alone not to mention the additional cost for line signals and speaker wires. In addition, it presents other challenges with fader control and system control. Sure you can work around it to make it work if you can find an amp with multichannel pass through for the line signals or you can use y connectors or line drivers with faders built in but you have to wonder if the additional componentry isn't going to introduce more noise into the system possibly negating the benefits fo going to a fully active crossover network. Considering the cost increase you need to realize that you could have spent the extra money elsewhere for higher quality amplification or towards higher quality speakers, and a better head unit (if not a combination of all three). If cost is not an issue, than a fully active system seems a viable option. However it seems you are suggesting that higher quality components sets don’t have great quality crossovers. There has been a lot of research conducted at least by the reputable companies out there in reference to building crossover networks that optimize the performance of their drivers particularly the higher end component sets. So I’m not so sold on the idea that a fully active system is the way to go.


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## Cablguy184 (Oct 7, 2010)

fourthmeal said:


> *By the way, if you want Blues, you can just get Credence to make you a mid, and then slap an LPG tweeter,* and then just either build your own passive crossover out of readily-available parts,





Cablguy184 said:


> Do you have true proof of this ??? I made my ammends to the op for what I said ... Why are you starting this ???


Sorry, I should have quoted better ... Was not talking about the differences between active and/or passive ... I'm actually running both in my setup ...


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Any of these suggestions come in 8 ohm instead of 4 ohm?
I would appreciate the help since I am also trying to find the best 6.5" for the money without having to drive all over NorCal to audition everything, but it has to be an 8 ohm speaker.
Thx,
Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR

BTW, Fourthmeal, your avatar is really beginning to creep me out!


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

Is there any particular reason your looking for an 8 Ohm driver? This is for a car right?


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Any of these suggestions come in 8 ohm instead of 4 ohm?
> I would appreciate the help since I am also trying to find the best 6.5" for the money without having to drive all over NorCal to audition everything, but it has to be an 8 ohm speaker.
> Thx,
> Bret
> ...


I'd run the Ex-Anarchy if my door could accommodate the depth: DIYCable.com : Intro » Home » Exodus Subwoofers »

Sadly, they are about 1" too deep and I don't want to build my factory pods out to house them since I already kick them at 3/8" extension. I'm going to try the Dayton RS180s next since I have roughly .75 cubic feet sealed per door before driver displacement.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> Is there any particular reason your looking for an 8 Ohm driver? This is for a car right?


Excellent question.
I will be installing six of them (pair for each seat row) in a 97 Suburban.
That means 8ohmsX3 equals 2.666 ohms.
My amp won't go below 2 ohms (PPI ART AX606.2 6 channel with built in active crossover) without causing issues.
Thx,
Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

ChrisB said:


> I'd run the Ex-Anarchy if my door could accommodate the depth:


Chris B,
This looks like the perfect choice.
Three of them wired parallel come out to 2.133 ohms.
Have you or anyone auditioned them yet?
Thx,
Bret 
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Chris B,
> This looks like the perfect choice.
> Three of them wired parallel come out to 2.133 ohms.
> Have you or anyone auditioned them yet?
> ...


Yes, I have listened to them and it pains me that I can not run them myself. Well I could, but it would involve a combination of cutting the backs off my sealed 8" factory pods AND extending them out the front. Maybe I am not dedicated enough.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

ChrisB said:


> Yes, I have listened to them and it pains me that I can not run them myself. Well I could, but it would involve a combination of cutting the backs off my sealed 8" factory pods AND extending them out the front. Maybe I am not dedicated enough.


On their website it looks like they're prototyping a 5.25" as well.
Exodus could be the perfect choice for my application.
Now if I could just find the right tweeter. 

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

I just want to clarify what you are trying to do. *Here is my understanding*:
Your wanting to install 3 pairs of components (mid-woofer and tweeter with a two way crossover network) using a 6 channel amplifier that can handle 2 ohms impedance per channel. Further more it sounds like you're going to combine that with the active crossover built into the amplifier to run them high pass at around 80 to 100 Hz.
If that is the case you do not need to look for 8 Ohm drivers. Even though you will be wiring the mid-woofer and tweeter in parallel for each channel your amplifier will only be presented with a nominal impedance of 4 Ohms per channel because the passive crossover within a component set will split the frequency range with the lower frequencies directed at the mid and the higher frequencies directed to the tweeter. *Because it is not possible for both drivers to play at the same time in the same frequency range due to the presence of the crossover* the amplifier is only presented with *4 ohms *when you have a component set consisting of a 4 Ohm mid-woofer and a 4 Ohm tweeter despite the fact that they are wired in parallel. There would be a concern if you wired two 4 Ohm woofers in parallel operating at the same frequency range. IE if you tried to wire two 4 Ohm mid-woofers in parallel the nominal impedance would drop to 2 Ohms.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> I just want to clarify what you are trying to do. *Here is my understanding*:
> Your wanting to install 3 pairs of components (mid-woofer and tweeter with a two way crossover network) using a 6 channel amplifier that can handle 2 ohms impedance per channel. Further more it sounds like you're going to combine that with the active crossover built into the amplifier to run them high pass at around 80 to 100 Hz.
> If that is the case you do not need to look for 8 Ohm drivers. Even though you will be wiring the mid-woofer and tweeter in parallel for each channel your amplifier will only be presented with a nominal impedance of 4 Ohms per channel because the passive crossover within a component set will split the frequency range with the lower frequencies directed at the mid and the higher frequencies directed to the tweeter. *Because it is not possible for both drivers to play at the same time in the same frequency range due to the presence of the crossover* the amplifier is only presented with *4 ohms *when you have a component set consisting of a 4 Ohm mid-woofer and a 4 Ohm tweeter despite the fact that they are wired in parallel. There would be a concern if you wired two 4 Ohm woofers in parallel operating at the same frequency range. IE if you tried to wire two 4 Ohm mid-woofers in parallel the nominal impedance would drop to 2 Ohms.


CSingleton,
Sorry, it was not my intent to hijack your thread.
I like you, am trying to find the best 6.5" and also 5.25" speaker out there.
To answer danantoniuk, it's a 6 channel amp with active crossover making channels 1,2 high pass, 3,4 band bass, and 5,6 low pass.

6.5" on the low pass
5.25" on the band pass
Tweeters on the high pass

18 speakers in all with no passive crossovers. 
So the last part of your statement applies to my project.
For more details, see thread:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/103759-how-do-i-get-2ohms.html

Thx,
Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

Okay I see your set is fully active. Not sure why you're avoiding passive crossovers. If you were to use them in your system you would have the flexibility to set the levels for each row within your vehicle. As it stands your only going to have level control over the tweeters, mids, mid woofers over all but they will have to be set at the same level despite their different locations within the vehicle. Essentially your not going to have a fader control available to you. IE all tweets will have to share a certain level, all mids at another level and all mid-woofers at another level. Considering the dynamic environment of your vehicles interior you are limiting the control you would need to tune it properly for your environment as in each row may need a different level to sound properly due to ambient reflections within the interior. Maybe the back row tweeter will need to be turned down a little compared the the middle row and maybe upfront your going to need the tweeter brighter than the speakers located at the rear of the vehicle. On one hand your gaining out put level control for each type of driver in your active system but your loosing the important capability of adjusting the levels based on the physical location of the speakers. To have the proper control over your system in a fully active set up you really need 18 channels of amplification. That is why a fully active system is not really that practical for both space and budgetary reasons. Particularly in a vehicle such as yours which is fairly large from front to back you going to need more control than you are limiting yourself to. If you were doing this in a pick up or two seater as a two channel set up a fully active set up would be more feasable and make more sense.

I suspect the reason you are wanting to go fully active is that you are having problems matching the level outputs of the various drivers you are choosing to use in your system using passive crossover networks. I can't imagine it would be to save money as many decent component sets are available on the market for $250 a pair. I understand most people are not very experienced at designing their own passive crossover networks with different drivers with diiferent sensitivity ratings etc... That is why I suggest choosing a matched set of components where the manufactures have done the research and testing for you. They have college educated engineers on staff who actually know what they are doing when designing passive crossover networks for their drivers. If you are so intent on building your own set up and selecting different drivers from different manufactures etc... I would suggest going to some of the speaker design sites and see if they are offering matched sets of tweeters with mids that have been successfuly matched together by builders who have years of experience in speaker design.


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

Well maybe you're only going to need 13 levels of amplification. 12 channels for your three rows and at least one channel for your subwoofer if you including one in your design.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

danantoniuk said:


> Okay I see your set is fully active. Not sure why you're avoiding passive crossovers.


Why on earth would one want to use passive crossovers if they have the ability to run active? I have the ability to adjust the crossover point, time delay, and level on every single driver in my setup on the fly. In addition to the control offered by my CDA-9887, my amplifiers also have one gain per channel. 

The only other thing I would want not offered by my HU would be the ability to have Parametric equalization per driver.


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

No you won't have control over every driver in your system with a 6 channel amp you will only have control over each type of driver as I stated earlier. Your going to have tweeters in 6 different locations and they will all have to be set at the same level. Same problem with your mids too. For full control it seems at a minimum your going to need 12 channels of amplification.


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

That of course is assuming your left and right channels are going to have a similar level like in most systems.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> Well maybe you're only going to need 13 levels of amplification. 12 channels for your three rows and at least one channel for your subwoofer if you including one in your design.


Yes, I have a separate PPI-ART A1200.2 (1200watts bridged) to power my three JL 12w6 subwoofers.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

danantoniuk said:


> No you won't have control over every driver in your system with a 6 channel amp you will only have control over each type of driver as I stated earlier. Your going to have tweeters in 6 different locations and they will all have to be set at the same level. Same problem with your mids too. For full control it seems at a minimum your going to need 12 channels of amplification.


I'm running 2 way active plus sub and I do have control over each individual driver. Each door is midbass + full-range driver and the sub is in the trunk. This is handled by one four channel amplifier that has a gain on every channel and a dedicated subwoofer amplifier. In other words, 5 speakers and 5 channels of amplification.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> Essentially your not going to have a fader control available to you. IE all tweets will have to share a certain level, all mids at another level and all mid-woofers at another level. Considering the dynamic environment of your vehicles interior you are limiting the control you would need to tune it properly for your environment as in each row may need a different level to sound properly due to ambient reflections within the interior. Maybe the back row tweeter will need to be turned down a little compared the the middle row and maybe upfront your going to need the tweeter brighter than the speakers located at the rear of the vehicle. On one hand your gaining out put level control for each type of driver in your active system but your loosing the important capability of adjusting the levels based on the physical location of the speakers.


Excellent point.
Not unlike my 7 channel home surround sound.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> I suspect the reason you are wanting to go fully active is that you are having problems matching the level outputs of the various drivers you are choosing to use in your system using passive crossover networks. I can't imagine it would be to save money as many decent component sets are available on the market for $250 a pair. I understand most people are not very experienced at designing their own passive crossover networks with different drivers with diiferent sensitivity ratings etc... That is why I suggest choosing a matched set of components where the manufactures have done the research and testing for you. They have college educated engineers on staff who actually know what they are doing when designing passive crossover networks for their drivers. If you are so intent on building your own set up and selecting different drivers from different manufactures etc... I would suggest going to some of the speaker design sites and see if they are offering matched sets of tweeters with mids that have been successfuly matched together by builders who have years of experience in speaker design.


I have done passive before with excellent results, however, this time I am attempting full active to take full advantage of the amp's features and additional headroom in wattage.
Now, the reason I am determined to use separates is to improve staging for all three seats, reduce reflection (i.e. tweeter positioning to reduce exposure to the the person in the seat right in front), and broaden my options of having the best 6.5" 5.25" and tweeters. Component speakers offer me none of these features.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

Okay I have you confused with someone else. If I understand you properly, you have two doors in each door you have only two drivers one is a mid-bass and the other is a full range driver. So you have a total of 4 speakers in your vehicle and an additional 5th speaker as a subwoofer which has it's own dedicated amplifier. That makes sense.

The person I had you confused with is someone who had a mid and tweeter in six locations (two sets per each row of seats) 12 actual speakers. This person was trying to design a fully active system using only a single six channel amplifier and what I was pointing out to that person is that even though they would be able to provide seperate amplification for each type of driver that they would loose indvidual control unless they had 12 channels of amplification.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> No you won't have control over every driver in your system with a 6 channel amp you will only have control over each type of driver as I stated earlier. Your going to have tweeters in 6 different locations and they will all have to be set at the same level. Same problem with your mids too. For full control it seems at a minimum your going to need 12 channels of amplification.


You might be right.
Only one way to find out.
This amp PPI-ART AX606.2 is a FRX-456 active crossover, A404.2 4channel amp, and A200.2 2channel amp all in one chassis. It's designed for exactly what I am trying to do. The only difference it I am applying it to three separate staging areas which will like as you said, might present some problems.
I am antipicating problems such as you described (especially with the tweeters) but I am counting on tricks like mounting position and off axis to help.
Once again, it will be similiar to my 7channel home surround sound system but the separates well let me tune it better to the vehicle's environment.
I also have the ability to choose a different, more subdued tweeter for the middle and rear bench seat rows to mellow things out, or even add an additional set of tweeters to the front seat row staging and just lower the high pass output overall.
So, as you can see, there are many different options I have to tune it before adding passive components.
Lastly, I am using a PPI-ART DEQ-230 31 adjustable 3rd octave equilizer to tune the whole spectrum.
It's going to be a slow learn as you go process but it will be fun!
I will start a build log on DIYMA soon in case anyone wants to follow my trials and tribulations using old school amps, pre-amps, and equilizers.

Thx,
Bret 
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> The person I had you confused with is someone who had a mid and tweeter in six locations (two sets per each row of seats) 12 actual speakers. This person was trying to design a fully active system using only a single six channel amplifier and what I was pointing out to that person is that even though they would be able to provide seperate amplification for each type of driver that they would loose indvidual control unless they had 12 channels of amplification.


No, you have the right likely overly optimistic guy. 
But I am going to use a separate PPI-ART A1200.2 for subwoofers.
I am also going to use a separate PPI-ART A100.2 for center staging up front either top center of the dash reflecting of the windshield, or where the old head unit is dead center in the dash.
Lots of speakers, lots of channels.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## danantoniuk (Mar 30, 2011)

Okay now that makes sense now that your planning on some flexibility with different drivers in some of the locations and positioning to adjust for the ambient differences within the various locations of your vehicle. You could always pick up another 6 channel amp used on ebay to solve your problems. There is 6 channel sedona series that has active crossovers built in that would run your tweets just fine and it sells brand new for around $200.

Now you also mentioned using and external (assuming two channel) 1/3 octive eq hope you have 6 of them to handle those 12 channels of amplification. That is unless your head unit has in/out loop you can use to run it off then you could just use one of them. Otherwise you could use a head that has a parametric eq built in to tweek your system.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

danantoniuk said:


> Now you also mentioned using and external (assuming two channel) 1/3 octive eq hope you have 6 of them to handle those 12 channels of amplification. That is unless your head unit has in/out loop you can use to run it off then you could just use one of them. Otherwise you could use a head that has a parametric eq built in to tweek your system.


Another excellent point.
Right now, I am leaning torwards the brand new HU's (source units) from Precision Power which will give me the additional flexibility you described.
It's going to be fun and I can't wait to work through all this.
Thx,

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## GSINGLETON (Apr 23, 2011)

Well it appears I started some problems here. Sorry, I am pretty ignorant to all the technical terms etc as I mentioned earlier. For those that were helpful I appreciate your patience and understanding. For those that are perturbed by my lack of knowledge get a life. I thought forums were to get information from those who know. Not a place to get ur rocks of because you know more than the next guy, seriously. 

Any who, I decided to go with the high energy hertz 6.5 in doors and 6x9 in back. Yes I over shot my $400 budget again but ohhhh well. The speakers sound great. Thanks for the help


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

I havent heard many hi-end components but when I heard the Blues set I was amazed. I heard them in two vehicles (Ray's and Richard's). At high volumes they were very clear, clean and the low end response was shocking. They actually sound like 10's (very low bass) with absolutly no distortion. Both Ray and Richard have woofers but when they did a demo for me they CUT THEM OFF and sounded like they were still on. Their expensive but not as expensive as those Focal Utopia set.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Speakers follow the laws of physics, and if these drivers are exactly what I think they are (and... well let's just say I've dabbled in finding out), then the xmax will be average, distortion average, frequency response average. Its great that they sound good, but THIS FORUM WAS FOUNDED ON THE PRINCIPLE THAT EXPENSE OF GEAR DOES NOT EQUAL PERFORMANCE...aka NPDANG's site. In other words this isn't Someone Do It For You audio. I know who makes the drivers, and I can't WAIT to get the raw drivers on the Klippel and shed the light of truth on the whole thing, once and for all. 

And I don't care who you are, how much money you got, or what you claim... the Klippel and a double-blind ABX test will separate the men from the boys. Or in this case, the performers from the... other.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

GSINGLETON said:


> Well it appears I started some problems here. Sorry, I am pretty ignorant to all the technical terms etc as I mentioned earlier. For those that were helpful I appreciate your patience and understanding. For those that are perturbed by my lack of knowledge get a life. I thought forums were to get information from those who know. Not a place to get ur rocks of because you know more than the next guy, seriously.
> 
> Any who, I decided to go with the high energy hertz 6.5 in doors and 6x9 in back. Yes I over shot my $400 budget again but ohhhh well. The speakers sound great. Thanks for the help



Hertz make great speakers, and they work even better active when you're ready for that step. 

Install is what really matters so I'm happy you are enjoying some good tunes.


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## Joe0428 (Oct 8, 2010)

I personally feel DIY is the way to go. Check out parts express and madisound and build your component set that way.


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

Truly, you truly didn't give us enough information. There will be loads of decisions out there, and a considerable measure of folks here are substantially more qualified than i am to suguest them to you. its every one of the a matter of giving them the correct data, and asking pleasantly!


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## ManBearPig (Jul 18, 2016)

I'm sure the "best" has changed since 2011. Lol


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

When I was searching for some pleasant 2 and 3 way comps I had a couple of folks offer some truly decent ones on TA, simply observed and these are what was accessible. In the case of considering second hand, gathering the sub or undoubtedly speakers is desirable over having them posted as you can test before you purchase. Worth putting resources into a shoddy multi-meter for this.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Since this has been drudged from the dead by some sort of "Night King", I'll add my .02 with modern data.

I'd say right now, the best component speakers would probably be SI's mkII's along with their new tweets. 

I'd also place the Audiofrog GB and GS series at the very top. I have GS690's and GS10's right now.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

fourthmeal said:


> Since this has been drudged from the dead by some sort of "Night King", I'll add my .02 with modern data.
> 
> I'd say right now, the best component speakers would probably be SI's mkII's along with their new tweets.
> 
> I'd also place the Audiofrog GB and GS series at the very top. I have GS690's and GS10's right now.


If you're going to expand it with tweeter, then there is an 8" scanspeak that seems worth a look at.

I guess it depends on what is good? (Frequency response, distortion, power, efficiency, cost).
Personally I would take low distortion, efficiency and power handling over the rest.


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

You also have to consider mounting locations when choosing equipment. If you pick a speaker that is best suited for on-axis listening and stick them in your doors off-axis, I don't care how "great" they are rated, they probably won't sound that good.


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## rosaann (Sep 7, 2017)

The JBL's are great! I have a set of P662's in my doors, and 4 P638's in the back. I have not put real power to them yet, but thats coming. The 6x9's really drown them out, to the point, I cant tell they are on most of the time. Im working on a new system now using a 4 channel amp. I will give the 662's their own channel, and the 6x9's on a seperate channel to make it easier to balance them. For the money, I really LOVE the JBL's. They are well made, take LOTS of power. You just have to make sure you set the EQ properly or you will blow them throwing too much bass at them with alot of power. I have blown 4 of the 6x9's operating them unfiltered. Once I set them to >100hz they have been fine and will take the heat. I have 200 watts going to them now and they smoke! When I finish my new setup they will be eating 400w each depending on how I set it. I will just have to be carefull with the volume knob or I will be picking up the pieces. If I replace them, it will be with Morel Virtus 602's for the added power handling. But I could buy 4 sets of the JBL's at what those cost.


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

Interestingly enough I've quite recently spent the day placing 6.5's in my dash. Not 100% on the clarion but rather on the pioneer I could either have it off (carp) or both front seats/drivers seat or traveler situate. Was all in the menu so only a couple of snaps to swap forward and backward.


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

Was all in the menu so only a couple of snaps to swap forward and backward.


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

Does he know something I don't??? It is safe to say that he is/she a part? I additionally observed the silver dark 9-3 vert that I generally appear to see with the S44Bxx enrollment south of Bristol on the M5.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

I hope you all know that, this thread is 7 years old, I think its time to move on  by this time if OP sticked around, I'm sure he learned so much that he switched out his hear many time already.


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## AAAAAAA (Oct 5, 2007)

quickaudi07 said:


> I hope you all know that, this thread is 7 years old, I think its time to move on  by this time if OP sticked around, I'm sure he learned so much that he switched out his hear many time already.


OP last activity 04-30-2011


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## pedrospassos (Jul 5, 2017)

I have found Morels at a very good price on eBay! I just bought a pair of morel virtus 602...


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## Johnsnowkornar (Aug 20, 2017)

GSINGLETON said:


> I have just installed a kenwood 995, JL Audio 12" sub and amp into my car which, is awesome. However, the factory speakers in the front are horrible. I was thinking about the Focal Access component speakers. Looking for opinions on if this will give me a more complete sound or if there is something else out there better.
> 
> Thanks for your help



I've turned those speakers upward and they do appear to be better than average, yet can't discover them for under £150. 

I figure I will go for these: JBL GTO629. There has any suggestion. Thanks


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