# 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated*



## req

Hey there forum, 

Chances are that you have seen this thread before, or have glanced at pictures of my install at one point or another. It has been around for a while, but I have threads all over so I figured I would condense them to a single area. Some areas I forgot to take pictures of, like running the wires in the vehicle, laying fiberglass for the doors, and some fabrication steps. When it comes down to it, I was often doing this by myself and did not have extra (clean) hands to take pictures, or I would simply forget. I don't think I'm going to go into detail about what I did, pictures speak mostly for themselves. If there are questions, hopefully I have enough time in my new married life and time with the US Navy to answer any questions you may have. I hope you enjoy my installation.

Props go out to Jonsey for helping out when he did. Also my wife Carly for putting up with my audio addiction.

By the way, you will notice all this install was done in parking lots. No garage, no permanent work area, no big tools. Basically a drill, a jigsaw, a dremel, a power converter (for the jigsaw) and hand tools.

*EQUIPMENT*

*Highs-* Image Dynamics CD2 w/ mini lens (under dash)
*Mids-* Image Dynamics IDQ8D4V2 (door pods)
*Subs-* two Image Dynamics IDQ15D2V2 (trunk baffle) 
*Headunit-* ALPINE DVA-9861 (using toslink audio output)
*Controller-* ALPINE RUX-C701
*Processing-* ALPINE PXA-H701
*Aux device- *120gb Microsoft Zune (straight into the PXA-H701)
*Amplifier Highs\Sub-* MEMPHIS 16-MCH1300 BELLE (75x4 @ 4ohm + 1100x1 @ 1 ohm)
*Amplifier Mids-* MEMPHIS MCA-300 (250x2 @ 2 ohm)

some pics of the car:


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Early on, I had some temporary stuff thrown in and juggled around. I had some Image Dynamics CX62 mids for a while, then some Seas CA18RNX 8's took their place. I made door pods for the CA18's and ended up folding a cone on one of them because I was giving them way too much power! I had some Audison (NEXT!) amplification, some DLS A3 amplification, some older memphis amplifiers, a few Alpine Head units, and a old school analog 5 channel crossover. I wish i had more pictures of the old stuff that I went through, but here is some of it!

so here are some pics of the early life of my system!


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

So there I was, looking for a car that I could build this for that also had a double din opening for the H701 combo and that I thought I could fit the CD2 horns into. The GTi fit everything. After I bought her and made a trip up to my parents house to retrieve my IDQ15's, I made this hatch baffle in the parking lot of the military barracks I was living at with a single cordless drill, a jigsaw and some hand tools on the back of a friends old pickup truck! It only took a few days to put together. fairly simple!


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

So it came to pass that I came in the ownership of some sound dampening. There was a day off, and a few friends of mine decided to help me install it on a super hot day in the parking lot. turns out taking the door apart for this was a piece of cake!


































































(yes, this is a picture of me)


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

(props to my buddy eddy)









(and my friend jonsey)


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ahhh, yes. The question that people ask about the most. How are your HLCDs? Well, they are dynamic, super loud, detailed, and really picky. Did I mention they are a pain in the ******* to install? Pardon my language, but they are not easy depending on what kind of vehicle you drive. I got lucky. First I had the Ultra bodies that are super huge and awesome down to 800hz with a 24db\oct slope. Thats all fine and dandy because my H701 will go down to 30db\oct so I am set there. But the big horn bodies simply did not fit under the dash with the way that the motor was mounted to the top or the bottom. My air conditioner blower motor was right where the motor for the horn needed to go. Weighing int at 8lbs each, they are bigger motors than my IDQ8's. There will be no playing to get them in there. I called Image Dynamics and ordered a pair of miniature horn lenses and the motor mounted horizontally instead of top\bottom and they went in fairly easy. But mind you, I warn you that you will need good equalization and crossovers to tame these things, otherwise you will be spending money to spend more money. Be prepared. I also had to relocate a distribution system on the driver side up further into the dash because that is where the motor needed to fit. I also bought some used mini horn lenses on the forum and they didnt fit because they were only for the CD1 motors and had an angled throat. Those went back up for sale real soon! *sigh*

As far as mounting is concerned, I first wrestled them into place using lots of zip ties, then once they were where I needed them to be I drilled some holes on each end and one dead center of the horn lens. I used some metal strap like the kind you use to hang pipes in your house from various bolts and made a structure under the dash for the horns to hang from.


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

After three iterations of amplifiers, I came across a deal on a memphis belle that I could not pass up. I purchased the memphis belle and decided my mids could use more than 75 watts, because my horns were so efficient (109db 1w\1m) that my mids could not keep up! I then acquired a memphis two channel that would push my mids (also recently acquired IDQ8's) at two ohm with 250 watts!! After my friend Jonesy and myself did the re-installation of all this stuff it was then christmas vacation. I drove up to new york to spend time with my family and my girlfriend. Turns out I had lots of free time in the morning while everyone was at work and i decided to use some techflex and goodies I have had in boxes for a long time! I finished this in maybe 10 hours, but i am very satisfied with the results. The amps are underneath a simple false floor that I intend to re-make this spring, but it works great and the amps get warm on long trips at loud volumes, but never have had any overheating\protection issues. I wish I had cleaned it better before the pictures, but i am sure that is OK with you all!

PS! I also still have my spare tire! All I have to do is remove my hatch baffle, tilt the false floor up\left, then remove the tire! Pretty cool if you ask me!

BEFORE:





















AFTER:


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


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## rockondon

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looks like a great job.


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I know this is off topic, but I love showing this stuff off! Here are a few pics of the stuff I ordered while I was on my two deployments!

Bowers and Wilkins CDM7SE towers
Bowers and Wilkins CDM7SE book shelfs
Bowers and Wilkins CDM CNT center channel

Emotiva UMC-1 receiver\processor
Emotiva UPA-7 7 channel amplifier ([email protected] 4 ohm)

YIPEE! 





































Ill put more pictures here when I get back to virginia after this winter vacation is over with!

SEE YA GUYS! :thumbsup:


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## Jaloosk

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Wow...nice work!


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## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Any info on the Car? Mods, etc?


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## southpawskater

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice work the car looks really good, and those B & Ws are dead sexy!!!!!!!


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## simplicityinsound

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

if you ever want to sell those old school ID drivers, let me know! DIBS!!! 

solid work by the way...


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## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

nice gear. Makes me wish I could go out and install my ultra horns right now! and that I that I could fit an 8 in my door. dual 6 1/2"s will have to suffice i suppose


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## 60ndown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

the only thing i dont like is seeing those big subs in the rear shelf, they are SCREAMING 

i have a car audio system - steal me.

if left like that, one day someone somewhere will definitely 'jack yo chit'

stealth = you get to keep it.

cover them.


other then that, beautiful work all around, i bet it gets very loud effortlessly.


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## edman79

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Brian_smith06 said:


> nice gear. Makes me wish I could go out and install my ultra horns right now! and that I that I could fit an 8 in my door. dual 6 1/2"s will have to suffice i suppose


 I would rather have two 6.5's than one 8.

Eddie Ed


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## cheesehead

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



60ndown said:


> the only thing i dont like is seeing those big subs in the rear shelf, they are SCREAMING
> 
> i have a car audio system - steal me.
> 
> if left like that, one day someone somewhere will definitely 'jack yo chit'
> 
> stealth = you get to keep it.
> 
> cover them.
> 
> Exactly what I was thinking.
> 
> 
> other then that, beautiful work all around, i bet it gets very loud effortlessly.agreed! Nice work!


And thank you for serving our country!!!


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thanks for the constructive critism, I have an idea for a simple grill cloth cover but I never got around to implementation. I am going to be switching subwoofers soon because I got a hold of some good 12s for a better price, so when I modify the baffle I will create cover for them. The idq's are slated for home theater duty with the b&w system at this point. The reason I am changing the q's however is they are starting to exibit some spider sag after 6 years of infinite baffle the suspension is getting quite loose. So off to a sealed box they go!


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## GSlider

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Very nice work indeed! Love the IB setup with the subs.


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## TEGBOY

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Always loved this install. So much tasty ID gear.

2 thumbs up!


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## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

oh my this car is hideous, and your install skills are crap. I bet this sounds like garbage too 


Hahahahahahahaha.....



I kid I kid.


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## Ianarian

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Dam, you definitely are cursed with knowing too much about what you want to end up with. Just don't stop until you're satisfied. You got the true audio fire burning in ya I see. With a little self studying in engineering structural stability for your larger drivers and some touch up in DC Theory and you'd be complete!


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## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Very nice! One thing though, aren't there leaks around the sub baffle and rear seat? A true IB configuration should be completely sealed from the front. 

Other than that, great work!


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## Irishfocus06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Good job!


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## crx4luke

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



n_olympios said:


> Very nice! One thing though, aren't there leaks around the sub baffle and rear seat? A true IB configuration should be completely sealed from the front.
> 
> Other than that, great work!


I've always wondered that about this setup too.

Work looks really good though.


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

of course there are leaks, that's why I refer to it as a 'hatch baffle' rather than IB. because true infinite baffle has an airspace of 10x the Vas of the particular driver in question, whereas I have more like 3x or 4x the Vas, not to mention the leakage from the edges, but it does not suffer in sound quality at all, only output. I think i did a 135 or 140 on a Termlab in North Carolina, I would have to check the video from back then, but it gets plenty loud for my tastes. I am just sad that the suspension is degrading, albeit six years at 500 watts each without any cone dampening is impressive! 

There is always tuning to do, always tricks and things to try. I have an extra channel to play with so I think I am going to play with a small mid range driver to liven up the top end of the IDQ8's. I dont know, we will see I suppose!

thanks for the kind words everyone


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## strakele

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looks great!

How high do you have the IDQ8's playing?


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## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looks decent man. Just try and use a bit more resin next time around. Your Hatch Baffle looks pretty dry in spots. When using heavy fabric it's going to soak resin like a sponge.


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## GRIFTER9931

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Very nice work


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## English audiophile

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice work btw. How's the imaging with the horns?


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## Darkwhip

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Man your doors are sick. I dont have the nuts to cut on or add to my doors like that .
I bet they sound great!


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



strakele said:


> Looks great!
> 
> How high do you have the IDQ8's playing?


I have the Q's playing up to 900hz I believe, I don't like the way the upper range of the speaker sounds, so I think I am going to try and integrate a dedicated mid range driver. The horns can play really low even with the smaller lens because I have a 30db\oct crossover. It is recommended that the horns only play to 1khz @ 24db/oct, so I am comfortable getting below that a bit with a sharper cutoff. Well, I have more tweaking to do, but its hard when I do not have much basis for comparison 



BowDown said:


> Looks decent man. Just try and use a bit more resin next time around. Your Hatch Baffle looks pretty dry in spots. When using heavy fabric it's going to soak resin like a sponge.


Oh I agree, the fleece is a nightmare to soak, but I used all the resin I had LOL. It ended up working fine though, when I wrapped the hatch board, it turns out that the resin only soaked through half way on the outside, so when I went to glue the first piece of MDF down I used the other side of fleece that was not soaked and ended up being still fuzzy! so there was a good surface to stick the MDF to. But I was unprepared for it to soak up so much resin, that is for sure!



English audiophile said:


> Nice work btw. How's the imaging with the horns?


It is tricky, the horns place a solid left and right and center stage stage right out of the box. Getting the mids to blend with the horns is quite difficult because of the efficiency difference. So you end up having to mess with the gains on the amp, the level settings on the processor to get each door speaker to image correctly and level match with the horns. I still have some things to iron out, my stage height is a little low around the top of the dash, but I think i SHOULD be able to get some better results if I treat the car for reflections under the dash. 



Darkwhip said:


> Man your doors are sick. I don't have the nuts to cut on or add to my doors like that .
> I bet they sound great!


Thank you! It took me 4 door speaker installs to get the doors to my liking. I only made two door pod sets, the first one I was very dissatisfied with, the current ones I feel good about. However I still think there is something i can do better with the doors than what I have now. Maybe this summer I will try one last time to see what I can make.

*Also, it seems that I have used 10 gigabytes of transfer on my photobucket account in about three days. hahaha! thank you all for that!!! I will proceed to re-size the images on page one to something less than 100mb that I have currently. I will do that tomorrow!*


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## Echo42987

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Pictures no work!?


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

If you read the last part of my previous post I stated I used my 10gb bandwidth limit in 3 days. So ill have to reupload and resize tthem all, could take a few days lol.


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## OnlyShawn

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

good job man, for sure. I just got a gti (mkv '07), AND I'm putting some horns in it, so hopefully the mkv fits 'em...I've got the mini horn bodies as well. I can't believe I didn't consider the back dash install...I've been thinking of putting some small sealed 10's in the rear panel area, but I like your "ib" setup, so long as, like others said, it's stealthed up.


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## crx4luke

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



OnlyShawn said:


> good job man, for sure. I just got a gti (mkv '07), AND I'm putting some horns in it, so hopefully the mkv fits 'em...I've got the mini horn bodies as well. I can't believe I didn't consider the back dash install...I've been thinking of putting some small sealed 10's in the rear panel area, but I like your "ib" setup, so long as, like others said, it's stealthed up.


What are you planning to do for the mids up front? The mids in the door are towards the rear of the front doors. I've got mine in the stock position right now, but I'd really like to get them more towards the front. (I've got an 06 MKV)


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## OnlyShawn

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

crx; I'm eyeballing those door pockets...cut into those (cut the front part out), put the midbass down there.


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## crx4luke

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yeah, I've looked at that. Bing did some right there that looked pretty good. I haven't got to the point of cutting up the doors yet, so right now I'm having to endure midbass blocked partially by the seat.


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## trojan fan

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

When will the pics be back up


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## OnlyShawn

"if it does not fit you must cut it."


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## Bugs78

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



trojan fan said:


> When will the pics be back up


ya, think its time to find a new photohost.

ive checked this thread a bunch of times, and nothing but exceeded bandwidth notices


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

fixed the pictures. sorry it took a while guys, its hard to download and resize and refix everything. we are good to go now 

here are some new pictures for some teasers to show you guys


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**














































just gotta fix it all up together and drill some holes and use some T nuts and stuff!

gotta wait for the cable guy to come and hook my internets up, so im having a friend of mine swing by the store to get some fasteners for me!


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## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Iidmax ftmfw!!!!


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## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

my old IDMax?


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yea dude, your old idmax  just installed em. its raining and dark, sounds funny at loud volumes, ill have to look into it when its not rain and dark.


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## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

awesome... I wanna hear... where'd you move to?


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## trojan fan

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

You may want to put some grills on the door speakers.would hate to to see kick a hole in them....nice work


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

had door pods on the gti for nearly two years now, the only part that remotly gets near a foot is the bottom of the pod, they are quite far up from the floorpan. i have had no problems thus far with feet from anybody, however i agree, i just do not have the proper workspace to create anything that exact at this point in time. 

new pics of the installed idmax's

i had a slight problem with the wiring, the idmax and the idq had different cone label versus wiring terminal directions and the wiring i had previously put in place would not line up with the logo on the cones in any asthetic way, so i had to rotate the wiring and the speakers. in doing so, i ended up having a jumper from one speaker to the other being too short, not having any spare techflex or shrinkwrap anywhere (tools at a friends place for an install, GRR) i had to improv. so i will fix the wire that has a bit of bare wire visable.


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## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

looks pretty fugly

just kidding, I wish I could figure out how im going to mount my Idmax's ugh


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## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

shoulda called man, I could have brought you some techflex


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol, fugly is right 

sokay ron, i have more, it is just at a friends place because we were working on his car and i didnt think i needed it, but alas lol. it will be a 2 minute fix, no biggie!!!


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## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

req your about as big a id junkie as me. NOT lol. looks good


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## OnlyShawn

I'm probably putting two idq 10's in my gti, ib'd like this; I'm sold on the deck after spending about an hour trying to figure out how I was going to get them both in a sealed box in the hatch...but I GOTTA hide those guys; don't know how you're not terrified of getting your stuff stolen.


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## pjc

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I appreciate you serving our country. Great install, love the doors.


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## Kar Kraftsman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Great work man. Clean wiring too.


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol @ Horsemanwill! i am not 

wheres your install log??? lol!

thanks for the good words guys. i have been playing with some stuff, and its been real cold and rainy here the last few days. i need to do some re-wiring and some playing around, so hopefully there will be some new pics of stuff this weekend as the wife will be at work most of the weekend. hopefully my friends garage is big enough :crap:


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## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> lol @ Horsemanwill! i am not
> 
> *where*s your install log??? lol![/B]
> 
> thanks for the good words guys. i have been playing with some stuff, and its been real cold and rainy here the last few days. i need to do some re-wiring and some playing around, so hopefully there will be some new pics of stuff this weekend as the wife will be at work most of the weekend. hopefully my friends garage is big enough :crap:


He will be helping me with my full Id build in the next couple months so you can use mine as his lol. See my Sig for what's going in.


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## Crazytaxi

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Just looked through your thread, and I must say that you have accomplished pretty nice work, considering that you don't have that much tools at disposal.. 
*thumbs up*


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## dtm337

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

nice car ..lower it!


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## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Lol, I really have been considering a cup kit, Shocks and springs. But I need the bumper replaced first and that's happeniing end of next month. The one I got is fiberglass (came with the car) and its on its last legs. So I ordered a urethane one.

However, I did some stuff to the car in the past few days, and suffice to say I don't have anymore speakers or amps in it! I have some random pictures ill upload tonite, but this new router I got is being a pain and won't connect to the internets. So I'm trying to fix that, otherwise I'm on my android lol. Stay tuned.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i took all the interior from the B pillar back out, not including the C pillar and the headliner (and that needs to be redone because of some mystery water leak in the starboard side rear roof area GRR).

i plan on doing some sound deadening and absorption material in the quarters because they are noisy at the moment. i am also in the process of fabbing some brackets for the trunk baffle that will secure it to the rear as if it were a rear deck. basically some metal brackets that will be mounted under the stock plastic panel to reinforce it from underneath. i have a buddy with a welder so ill be doing that this week i hope.

and i had to rewire the IDMax12's because the terminals were 90 degrees different from the IDQ15's, not to mention the IDQ's were DVC2 and the MAX's are DVC4 :uhoh:. so now ill have 1100w or so instead of around 800w.

heres some pics i had on my cellphone.





































this is the plastic thing that holds the baffle in place (can you believe it lasted this long with 60+ pounds of speakers and wood!? im suprised i have not been in an accident and this thing has not come off and decapitated me yet!









this is my basic plan, i did it quickly on some scrap paper at work, it should be easy enough.










and here is the empty gti, at this point, the amp board is out too. its sitting next to me in the house. i think ill re-carpet under the amps, its starting to look haggard. i also plan on making the risers for the false floor attached to the amp rack rather than the false floor. it should be easier to get in and out that way.


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

what brand of deadener are you going to use? 

Also what speakers are those next to the idq8's? idq6's?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

They are bowers and wilkins cdm 7 special edition, cdm cnt special edition, and cdm 1 nt. They are paired with an emotiva upa-7 amplifier and emotiva umc-1 preamplifier processor.

Its all pretty nifty =)


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

talk about a tripple post, cell phones are tricky.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

There's pics on the end of the first page by the way =)

Anyone recommend some sound dampening/absorbtion materials before I just get it from second skin?


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

second skin is always good there's allos raammat he's the guy that's been posting in the the hlcd section too that's another good one


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> There's pics on the end of the first page by the way =)
> 
> Anyone recommend some sound dampening/absorbtion materials before I just get it from second skin?


replied to your pm


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Horsemanwill said:


> second skin is always good there's allos raammat he's the guy that's been posting in the the hlcd section too that's another good one


both brands work really well. I have both in my car.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ok so ive been doing some stuff, and my wonderful wife helped me! 

basically with the added weight of the IDmax, i was worried (and i was in the first place) that my baffle would end up breaking the panels, or my head if i was in a car accident. so i wanted to secure it down nice and tight. so the past few days ive been building some brackets to secure it to the rear of the vehicle. 

its my first time welding, so the welds arent pretty, and my wife did better than i did LOL. we are like half way done fabbing them as i only have a few hours a day to work on them. friday ill be doing some re-wiring to fix some stuff from a long time ago. so heres some pictures.

my wife welding! isnt she awesome!!! <3


















we were gonna clean up all the welds, but it was almost 10, and we didnt want the old neighbors getting mad at the noise.









fits pretty well!


















we used a torch and various hand tools (i wish we had a big vice - or a break!!) to bend it. it was tricky getting it where we wanted but we got it eventually.

i didnt get many pictures, but ill try and take more on friday when im doing some wire stuff.


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

OK I think you are addressing my only concern about the sub part of the install. regardless of which subs you use, the baffle needs to be very secure. even tho it seems like it isnt moving, it will flex and move if it can and it will ruin the low bass. stuff around 30 and below.

so you need to make it so the baffle cant move in any direction. based on your diagram in page 3, looks like you are going to screw down the baffle to the new bracket.
which will be very secure, but what about access to the cargo area?
Is that possible now, like will the baffle flip up to access that area?

What would be really cool is if you did like gas struts or more secure would be linear actuators to lift the baffle up to access cargo area.
then if you used gas struts you could use hood pins to hold the sides down.
Linear actuators would help hold them down securely by themselves


----------



## OnlyShawn

Mic10is said:


> OK I think you are addressing my only concern about the sub part of the install. regardless of which subs you use, the baffle needs to be very secure. even tho it seems like it isnt moving, it will flex and move if it can and it will ruin the low bass. stuff around 30 and below.
> 
> so you need to make it so the baffle cant move in any direction. based on your diagram in page 3, looks like you are going to screw down the baffle to the new bracket.
> which will be very secure, but what about access to the cargo area?
> Is that possible now, like will the baffle flip up to access that area?
> 
> What would be really cool is if you did like gas struts or more secure would be linear actuators to lift the baffle up to access cargo area.
> then if you used gas struts you could use hood pins to hold the sides down.
> Linear actuators would help hold them down securely by themselves


It's a hatch; just open the hatch to access the cargo area?


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Normally when youd open the hatch the cargo cover would move up with it. with a baffle takings its place, its more difficult to gain access is my point

bigger point is that if it isnt solidly mounted, it will flex and reduce output at lower freqs


----------



## OnlyShawn

Ah, ok...yeah, well, it does limit access somewhat (I've it a gti, too, and am doing a deck with ib'd maxes as well), but there's not really that much space back there anyway with these monster subs, so you really just need to lean over a bit to get full reach into the "trunk."

I've been wondering if I need to get some angle iron welded as a frame around my 3/4 mdf deck to lend some stability and beat the flex mic is talking about.


----------



## OnlyShawn

Req; I'm calling dibs on "GTiD."


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

GTiD?

i did some more work today and i think im nearly done with the brackets. i need to throw some mounting tabs and then paint and they should be good. im getting my sound deadener on tuesday and my horns on monday, and some more techflex at the end of this week.

i got more pictures to upload. ill put them up today or tomorrow.


----------



## OnlyShawn

It's the ID equipped GTI. GTID.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

removed the seats and lots of stuff in prep for sound deadening.





















then we started planning the rear support.


















so i made some brackets with some cheap thick strap stuff that mimicks the angle and mounting sizes i would need so i didnt accidently waste a bunch of time cutting thick higher price metal.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

tack welded in the car to get the position of the bar, then finished up on the floor.









some close ups


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

they let you weld at the hobby shop?


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I highly approve of this build.


----------



## asp87

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looking pretty good dude. In a way, I'm glad I don't have a good reason to fabricate on my mkv. It would all go downhill if I did...

A couple things when it comes to welding - it looks like you're mig welding... Flux core or shielding gas? Just curious.

I wouldn't let your wife wear her nice winter jacket and leather gloves while welding, unless she wants a new one. If I had a nickel for every time I burned a hole through a piece of clothing from spatter... Now the only thing I wear is a thick leather welding jacket. A pair of decent welding gloves can be had for $10 and will be a lot safer than those driving gloves as well...

It will help the weld to hit the mill scale off with a flap disk before welding. The arc will strike a little faster. Preparation, preparation, preparation. Can't stress it enough. 

Don't be afraid to get comfortable. Sit down on the floor, keep both hands on the gun and be steady.

What technique are you using? There are many schools of thought as to what's the best way to do it, but in general I find that pushing yields better results. I also tend to prefer doing alternating c's as opposed to curly q's or some other shape. Everyone is different.

Check out this site for lots of good info Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info

I'd rather do metalwork than fiberglass  Good luck with everything.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Mic10is said:


> OK I think you are addressing my only concern about the sub part of the install. regardless of which subs you use, the baffle needs to be very secure. even tho it seems like it isnt moving, it will flex and move if it can and it will ruin the low bass. stuff around 30 and below.


yea, it was really bothering me. and when it hit the low freq's it would wobble and looking like i had a small child underneath that was tied up trying to get out :surprised:



Mic10is said:


> so you need to make it so the baffle cant move in any direction. based on your diagram in page 3, looks like you are going to screw down the baffle to the new bracket.
> which will be very secure, but what about access to the cargo area?
> Is that possible now, like will the baffle flip up to access that area?


honestly, its still fully accessable, i can flip the seats down if i need to put some snowboards in there. i can open the hatch and put groceries under there. there really is still a lot of room. you will see in april i guess 



Mic10is said:


> What would be really cool is if you did like gas struts or more secure would be linear actuators to lift the baffle up to access cargo area.
> then if you used gas struts you could use hood pins to hold the sides down.
> Linear actuators would help hold them down securely by themselves


i agree; it would be sweet. but its a little advanced for me right now lol. and i can imagine doing it, but i dont have the time nor do i own the tools to be making something like that. i need to get this welding done because the kid lives like 30~40 min away from me and i hate driving there hahah.



yeldak99 said:


> they let you weld at the hobby shop?


no they said no hotwork there because people were setting their **** on fire so they cant let people weld there anymore. its a bummer because it would have been much warmer in the hobby shop than in my friends non-heated garage. my buddy jones' roomate has a plasma cutter\tig\mig welder, and a wire feed welder. BUT i did bring my GTi in there and took all the seats out and stuff. i removed ALL my wires and im getting an order of techflex in this week, so its gonna be all pretty and perfect now!



Brian_smith06 said:


> I highly approve of this build.


LOL thanks man, the baffle is nice and sturdy now. i can push down on it as hard as i can and the whole rear suspension of the car bobs up and down hahah. i just need to add tabs so that i can put bolts down in there.



asp87 said:


> Looking pretty good dude. In a way, I'm glad I don't have a good reason to fabricate on my mkv. It would all go downhill if I did...


lol, well. i didnt HAVE to... but it was something that has been bothering me for a long, long time.



asp87 said:


> A couple things when it comes to welding - it looks like you're mig welding... Flux core or shielding gas? Just curious.


yea, its flux core with no shielding gas because he used up the tank and didnt have the 2~300 dollars to refill it.



asp87 said:


> I wouldn't let your wife wear her nice winter jacket and leather gloves while welding, unless she wants a new one. If I had a nickel for every time I burned a hole through a piece of clothing from spatter... Now the only thing I wear is a thick leather welding jacket. A pair of decent welding gloves can be had for $10 and will be a lot safer than those driving gloves as well...


lol, the winter jacket is hers, she does what she wants with it lol. the gloves she had on are not nice leather. they are just some gloves i used at work to keep my hands warm when im out on the flight line working on the FA-18's. so they are junky anyway. i see your point though. i have not been wearing anything nice when im working on the car. ive learned that lesson before LOL. fiberglass resin on the crotch of a nice pair of jeans looks like you permanently pee'd your pants!! 



asp87 said:


> It will help the weld to hit the mill scale off with a flap disk before welding. The arc will strike a little faster. Preparation, preparation, preparation. Can't stress it enough.


gotcha. clean the metal THEN do the welding. get that oxidation off the surface. right on. good tip lol. didnt really think a whole lot about it i guess.



asp87 said:


> Don't be afraid to get comfortable. Sit down on the floor, keep both hands on the gun and be steady.
> What technique are you using? There are many schools of thought as to what's the best way to do it, but in general I find that pushing yields better results. I also tend to prefer doing alternating c's as opposed to curly q's or some other shape. Everyone is different.


oh i was comfortable. you know, i dont think i have the experience to be using a solid technique hahah. i was pushing because i liked that more than pulling as well. and i was just trying to get the speed down right so i wasnt really focusing on any pattern while i was going. the welds were REAL short on that metal, and the wire was a bit thick for the tip he had in the thing so it was on a faster speed setting so it wouldnt get stuck. so it was kind of hokey anyway.



asp87 said:


> Check out this site for lots of good info Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info
> 
> I'd rather do metalwork than fiberglass  Good luck with everything.


right on ill check that site out. glassing is super easy, but if i had my way i would use a combination of both to make things strong and light and awesome 


thanks for the kind words everybody!


----------



## asp87

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Flux core works just fine, it's just a little messier. It's $35 for me to refill my 80 cu ft C25 bottle... not sure what he's doing.

Haha, peed your pants - or worse :-X

The mill scale is actually something that gets put on the metal during hot rolling, it's not oxidation. Flux core is probably forgiving enough to not worry about it, though.

Someday I'm sure I'll end up doing some sort of welding to this car, thankfully I don't have a good reason to start.

Once again, looks great and good luck with the rest of it.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks, the thing is he does not have a bottle, and from what he told me they are expensive and a deposit needs to be put down? I dont know, i just shook my head and told him to give me the welding thing lol.

oh well, oxidation, mill scale. there you go  all i know is that it melted metal and made it happy heheh. but it does not need to be pretty, just functional. so im good with it!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i got something in the mail yesterday!























































WOOT 

so im going to end up keeping the mini lens because the full size lenses are just way too big. the depth of my under dash is not deep enough to fit them without MAJOR modifications. meaning i would have to cut the fender out of my gti in order to push them back to be even with the edge of the dash.

so ill be keeping the mini lens. i was doing some test fitting the other day and i should be able to get them 3 inches back or more depending on weather or not i can get some of the firewall to move for me 

stay tuned!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

got a few packages from don at sound deadener showdown. 

i did not expect the mass loaded vynl to be so heavy. its 98 pounds! i thought the CLD tiles would weigh a lot, boy was i wrong!!





































too bad is raining outside and i dont have a garage


----------



## derickveliz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Yes, it's like taking a Model with you all the time in your car!

1 sqft of 1/8" MLV = 1 lb 

almost same as lead!


.


----------



## Kellyo77

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Loving this project. And absolutely love the B&W home gear. That is next level goodness.


Thank you very much for serving our country. I really appreciate it.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



derickveliz said:


> Yes, it's like taking a Model with you all the time in your car!
> 
> 1 sqft of 1/8" MLV = 1 lb
> 
> almost same as lead!


LOL i guess so! im hoping that i can get some of the CLD tiles in tomorrow. i got the interior out today and was unable to get any further with the deadening before i had to go to work.



Kellyo77 said:


> Loving this project. And absolutely love the B&W home gear. That is next level goodness.
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for serving our country. I really appreciate it.


well thank you for the kind words. two combat deployments to the persian gulf for 6~7 months sucked. but i was able to save up a bunch of money, so it was bitter sweet i suppose. i got the B&W gear while i was at sea, can you imagine comming home to find out my room mates tried to set it all up? i was furious. 

so, i got some stuff stripped out of the car in prep for sound deadening. all that i gotta do now is vaccume it out and clean the sheet metal with a mild solvent. then im gonna start ploppin down some CLD tiles all over  here are some pics!














































close up of the brackets we made









put the back seats in for daily driving


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> i got the B&W gear while i was at sea, can you imagine comming home to find out my room mates tried to set it all up? i was furious.


I think your TV prank was a hell of a revenge though.


----------



## JP Fabrication

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice work.
Reminds me of myself when doing my install on my '04 R32, driving around with the interior stripped.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol, yea its tough. ive been listening to my phone play music on its single speaker when im driving around. it has a terrible frequency range 

but its worth it. im going to have one hell of a drive to new jersey to pick up these seats without any speakers in the car!! thats going to be the worst part hahah!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



















and thats where i am at now. 1 layer of 1\4 inch closed cell foam, then 1 layer of mass loaded vynl, and roughly 2.5 boxes of CLD tiles. i hope its enough lol. im about to take a 6 hour drive to pick up new seats and interior parts for my VW. we will see how that goes.


the carpet is very unhappy with the MLV and CCF down there, i might have to cut some slices in the MLV to get the carpet to fit a bit more snug in some places because getting the seats back on was an nightmare haha.

see you later.


----------



## MTopper

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i loaded my floor with mlv in my blazer and i had to cut the mlv from my wheel wells and under the center console for my carpet to fit properly and my panels to get back in


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ya it was a real tough fit!! Lol =)


----------



## derickveliz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> the carpet is very unhappy with the MLV and CCF down there, i might have to cut some slices in the MLV to get the carpet to fit a bit more snug in some places because getting the seats back on was an nightmare haha.
> 
> see you later.


Don't worry, carpet may not like it, but you will appreciate it! 


.


----------



## w8lifter21

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I SO miss my MKIV GTI. Great build! Never thought to do free air subs, I always had a Type R 15 taking up every inch of free space in the back LOL.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i got my new interior parts last weekend. i got a whole black headliner swap (a\b\c pillars, glove box, knee bolster panels, door gaskets, hatch plastics, and limited edition recaro seats!) been trying to clean them up since they were in an accident and all. not to mention the weather has been terrible and my wife has come down with some sort of sinus infection 



















talking about weather, virginia beach is not supposed to look like this lol


----------



## PttColt

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looks good and clean ride!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

did some wiring stuff this morning. took out all the sound deadening i put down to run the wires underneath it. hopefully my carpet will fit still haha. and i did some sanding of my mini lense to remove some of the plastic left from the moulding process.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i got a little progress done today, i built a fuse block with a relay that runs off the ignition and constant battery + wires in my car to supply my head unit and pxa-h701 with a remote turn on, and a constant 12v to the head unit with independent fusing. and i finished my speaker wire distribution for the amp rack.



















just gotta install the relay system now!! hopefully i can finish that up tomorrow!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i did some more stuff today. got the battery out of the car (kinetik HC1800) and got some cheap terminals at the store because the stock ones were corroding real bad causing electrical problems with my car. so im looking for a nice ANL fused battery terminal that will accept a few more wires, and has a post mount not just a set screw terminal. but the battery holder that my car comes with has a weird hold down at the bottom of the forward edge where the stock battery had a lip that this hold down locked it in place. so i had to fabricate a new hold down with some bar stock and some all thread and bolts. im satisfied with the strength of the hold down now. i just need new terminals to finish up. but the electrical problems are gone so im happy. i only took two pics (ill get more later) because i had to get the battery in to go to work lol. so yea. im trying to be done with everything by april!


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thats some good stuff there!!! are you ever going to be finished? LOL


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol i dont think so haha!

i think im going to buy this.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=263-624&source=googleps


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thats cool as hell!!! i never seen one with the fuse built in. im going to check into that for mine.


----------



## Rudeboy

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> lol i dont think so haha!
> 
> i think im going to buy this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StreetWires BC2PF Fused Battery Clamp (+) AFS Type | Parts-Express.com


I've had 4 of the non-fused version of those break. First two were replaced, gave up after 3 and 4. Was not impressed.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks for the advice.

ill keep looking then


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thats a shame. they look great. i wonder if the fused ones are any stronger? where would they break at?


----------



## minibox

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Man I hope you make it to the next meet. I'm really looking forward to hearing the fruit of your many labors. Utmost respect for the time and attention you're taking with this install. Awesome work!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yea, things are going slower than i would like. hopefully i can squeeze more time into the install before working hours. its been real stupid - ew have been required to go to mandatory physical fitness two hours early on tuesdays and thursdays. it is really starting to irratate me that we even stay extra hours to fix our jets for the next days flight schedule, then we have to go in early on top of staying late, while the day shift has set hours, and on their PT days - they LEAVE EARLY. im starting to get real pissed about it.


----------



## Rudeboy

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



draft6969 said:


> Thats a shame. they look great. i wonder if the fused ones are any stronger? where would they break at?












I bought these about 2 years ago. I believe they were cast and not machined. Maybe they've been changed, but all broke after a few ons and offs One just broke while it was on the battery. Went back to these:








Not sure if they make them anymore.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

those are all post type, and not set screw type? 

id really want a built in fuse though, the external ANL fuse holder i have is huge


----------



## Rudeboy

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> those are all post type, and not set screw type?
> 
> id really want a built in fuse though, the external ANL fuse holder i have is huge


Tell me about ir -









Hard to find battery terminals that accept ring terminals in a secure manner anymore. I think JL used to make some nice ones but it looks like they've been discontinued too.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

im trying to find this particular terminal... but it was discontinued in 2004. sigh 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/711745-post36.html


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> lol i dont think so haha!
> 
> i think im going to buy this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StreetWires BC2PF Fused Battery Clamp (+) AFS Type | Parts-Express.com


i think im still going to try these. if it takes a few years to break, oh well ill just buy another one or maybe ill buy 2 to have one on tap. but it does say machined from forged brass? so well see


----------



## Rudeboy

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



draft6969 said:


> i think im still going to try these. if it takes a few years to break, oh well ill just buy another one or maybe ill buy 2 to have one on tap. but it does say machined from forged brass? so well see


They may have changed them, mine definitely was not brass. Problem is, if it breaks away from tools, you're SOL. I'd get a set of the cheap lead ones with a post and wingnut and keep them in the glove box along with the allen wrenches it needs.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i have had zero luck finding a good fused battery terminal all over the web that is not discontinued


----------



## OnlyShawn

req said:


> i have had zero luck finding a good fused battery terminal all over the web that is not discontinued


Theres a surplus store near me that sells a ton of audio stuff. I'd be happy to look and see if they have a decent looking fused terminal for you. I'll pm you if I see anything.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

sweet man 

i really appreciat it!!


----------



## Navy Chief

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looks like you making some progress, I have some decent battery terminals here. They are all new but nothing fused, I do have a few different inline fuse holders here also. You can check them out if you stop over this weekend.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

right on man, i gotta get out early and get some stuff done in my car in the AM. hopefully i can make some progress with installing my amp rack again!


----------



## Chaos

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

That is some damn nice fabrication. How on Earth did you get your wife to work on the car like that? I'm not sure what's cooler - the install, or having a spouse that is willing to help with it.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

she is awesome man, before we were married i sold her a sub\amp\wires\install\LOC for 100 bux (less than i paid for everything), and she was pumped. she sold that car and i joined the navy, and then down the road we got married and i put it in her new car lol. its nothing crazy, but she got really excited.

not to mention she just loves helping, so if we can do something cool together she is all about it! i took her to the shooting range for valentines day - and she was so pumped hahah. i think we are going to go again this weekend.

she is really great


----------



## OnlyShawn

Dibs on her sister.


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> she is awesome man, before we were married i sold her a sub\amp\wires\install\LOC for 100 bux (less than i paid for everything), and she was pumped. she sold that car and i joined the navy, and then down the road we got married and i put it in her new car lol. its nothing crazy, but she got really excited.
> 
> not to mention she just loves helping, so if we can do something cool together she is all about it! i took her to the shooting range for valentines day - and she was so pumped hahah. i think we are going to go again this weekend.
> 
> she is really great


Thats cool, my wife loves this crap also she did her entire install in her car all the way down to the pink furry carpeted box


----------



## OnlyShawn

A pink furry box, you say?

INAPPROPRIATE MAN STRIKES AGAIN!!


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey man it wasnt my idea.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



OnlyShawn said:


> Dibs on her sister.



trust me, you dont want her sister. she is a high maintenance girl with an illigitamate child (although very adorable lol). she has tons of debt and has no skills as a human being other than shopping and gossip. trust me lol!!

hahah - a pink fuzzy box huh? lol, no link to install pics?


----------



## draft6969

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Well ok then. I dont want to be called a lier LOL


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

bahahahahha. 

nice =P


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Andy, can we get together for a tuning session sometime in the near future? I'm in need of your professional assistance.... I did finally get a mic for my behringer too


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

sure thing man. are you gonna make it to the NC meet by the way? i have sunday off also. i dont know if you want to drive out to my new place or what. i have not been able to do **** now that i have had to go to command PT. its really pissing me off.


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> sure thing man. are you gonna make it to the NC meet by the way? i have sunday off also. i dont know if you want to drive out to my new place or what. i have not been able to do **** now that i have had to go to command PT. its really pissing me off.


yeah I plan on going. Still in VB right? Command PT, what is that? hahahahaha I'm going back to a ship in may though, so I'll be miserable soon enough.


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

actually, I may not make the NC meet. Baby is due apr. 27th so I may be in ohio at the time.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

oh thats terrible timing


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

So I'm on my phone right now. Spent most of the day wiring in my relay/fuse for the stereo. Busted my alpine harness adapter for the back of my headunit so I'm waiting for that in the mail. I got almost all of the wiring stuff redone. Put my new boost guage with matching colors in properly (the guy before me just twisted some wires and the lights flickered). And ran an aux input home made rca. Tomorrow I'm going to make the speaker side extensions for the front, and hopefully get my seats back in and the carpet out of my livingroom haha. Its really dark so I think I'm gonna clean up. Ill get some pics when the sun comes back up lol. I got a few to post tho, see you later


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

this is the fuse block i installed on the stock fuse area. fits quite nice, one of the fuses does not attach to anything, but i could possibly use it in the future for something.










and you can see the yellow heatshrink for the boost guage i installed going past the main fuse for the fuse block i put in.










this is inside the gauge pod 










thats all i got because i got into a groove and forgot to take anything else. but really, theres nothing special. i didnt take any pictures of the boost gauge - maybe ill snap a few in the dark. the color matches real nice.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so the carpet is in. the front seats are in. the center console and arm rest are in. whats next? 

i need to fabricate a new forward center console.

i need to fabricate a new shift boot cover that mounts around the shifter.

i need to hook up the new alpine cable to my relay\fuse bank.

i need to weld tabs on my brackets for the subwoofer baffle to mount to

i need to clean the headliner that i got and put some sound treatment above it when i take it down, then put in the black moon roof slider A B and C pillars and finish that part of the car.

i need to finish the sound treatment in the trunk area around the wheel wells ans under the amp rack. 

im going to change the false floor a bit, and put the risers on the amp rack to hold the floor up, instead of having the risers on the bottom of the false floor, its easier to remove this way.

then i need to fabricate new door pod things. 

this seems like a lot of work, but most of it should be one day events. i think i have a few pictures. let me get them up here.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i finished building my front stage wire extensions. the last things to do for the dash area is to install the horns and wire up the headunit to the fuse\relay. then i can put the glove box back in and the knee panels back in. yay.

heres some pics i took of making my speaker wires;




























my wife doing some soldering! i love this woman 


















and it ends up looking like this, i was in a rush to get the carpet in and the sun was going down so i didn't get a chance to take a picture of the wires after i put them on the distribution blocks.










im making some progress at least


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so not a whole bunch done, but i got the rear passanger interior panels in, the headliner swap is done, the pillars are back in, and most of the sound treatment and the wires are done! there was a few inches of slack on the speaker cables. but everything is looking pretty good 










i did stab myself real hard in the thumb with a pick tool though! it hurt pretty bad.










i also auditioned a sweet pair of B&W 802D's on a $55K McIntosh setup! that was awesome!











ive been trying to sell the grey GTi plastics and such from my interior online and its been tough. i just got my new bumper in the mail, and its out at the paint shop right now. it should be back soon and ill snap some pictures then. we will see what happens


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

802D's! My favourite Diamonds ever. :bowdown:


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



n_olympios said:


> 802D's! My favourite Diamonds ever. :bowdown:


yes they were amazing!

love what you did with your seat as well! those pillars look awesome!!


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Random question but how do you like using the c701 for controlling the h701? I have been debating swapping out my w200 lately and doing a 9965 9861 or 7996(provided I can have deck modded to have blue buttons?) I like my w200 and its easy to control the h701 just looking for something different. 

And keep up the good work. Everytime I look at this build it makes me want to install my horns more and more


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice going req.

Posting to give props and subscribe to the thread


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ya me too, my horns have been sitting on a counter for weeks.

i actually have a friend who has the alpine touch screen ipod headunit, whatever one that is. and the 701 control sucks wang. he claims he likes it, but it takes several different button pushes to get into the menu, and you can not change songs while you are involved in tuning. so then you need to back out, change material, then go back into the EQ or TA or what not.

the c701 is freaking awesome because i can change tracks and discs or whatever without leaving the crossover portion of the h701. the knob on the c701 is just as nice as the knob on my cda-9827, cda-9830, and dva-9861 - so it has a great feel to it. tapping the touch screen 4 times in the same spot can be really annoying to change the EQ on the Wxx series touch screens... my friend actually uses the knob on his instead of the touch screen because its more trouble than its worth.

personally, the c701 is the way to go with that unit, even if its just stashed in the glove box, or you only hook it up for tuning. imo - i wouldnt want to use the H701 without it!


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hmm maybe I'll keep my w200 and add the c701? I just like to change it up occasionally. Like anybody else I suppose haha


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

got my new bumper back from my paint guy!! wooo!!




























just got to wait a bit for the paint to cure. ill prolly install it next weekend!


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> got my new bumper back from my paint guy!! wooo!!
> 
> 
> just got to wait a bit for the paint to cure. ill prolly install it next weekend!



Who did the paint?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

this guy Frank that i met through a girl that my wife works with. This girl (amanda) is married to this dude Eric who works at a local body shop. This guy Frank works with Eric and so on and so forth, i paid him a C note for paint. just gave him the brand new bumper and he had it for me the next day! 

and i think im going to get him to paint the carbon fiber hood ive got with some sort of "window" in the paint to show that it is real carbon. i figure like 80 bucks for a quick spray and paint. ill do some sanding and prep to get it looking nice and he has a turn around time of like 24 hours 

my CF hood looks like poo hahah!!

let me know if you need something painted and ill refer him to ya man. you got my number!


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

req do me a favor don't give brian any ideas lol


----------



## JP Fabrication

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice R bumper with the side markers filled in


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

hahah!

thanks guys!

and jeez! i didnt even notice until just now the side markers werent there too! thats awesome lol. i hate those stupid things. so its a euro R32 clone. yay for me


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Horsemanwill said:


> req do me a favor don't give brian any ideas lol


Grr.


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> love what you did with your seat as well! those pillars look awesome!!


Thanks!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i got a bit more done. i put back in the lower door sill trim. i put back in the C pillars. and i put back in the rear quarter panel trim that i had to take back out again because the lower door sill trim has some screws under it 

so, then i put the bottoms of my back seats in. i need to get to my buddys house to weld some tabs onto my subwoofer bracket to secure the baffle to the bracket, so im waiting on the trunk trim and rear seat backs until i do that.

so with that being at a hold, i decided to wire up my new (unbroken) alpine DVA-9861 harness. i got it online for like 6 bucks.

the old one i had has a built in 10A fuse and an air core inductor on a little PCB inside a small plastic case. without wanting to change anything, i decided to extend the harness and wire this protection inline. i extended the wires because its a tight fit behind the headunit, and i didnt want there to be fitment issues with this fuse box. i put some quick connectors on the end so that they can match up with the fuse block i built into the bottom dash and the wires that are waiting for the headunit under the dash!



















so all i gotta do is pull the center dash out (its already unscrewed) and pop the connector in the back of the headunit, and into the connectors i wired last week!

then i screw in my dash and that part is all done!! (finally)

i just hope that the relay does what i need it to and nothing explodes. ill be so upset if i fry my 9861. so ill test all the wires with my meter at the contacts before i plug it in!

im making progress! i didnt take any pictures of the panles back in because its looking like normal again, maybe i will maybe i wont!

and i should be getting the bumper install on friday


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i did some more stuff today. i got my headunit wires finalized and the center dash put back together. the relay and fuse block i built work like a charm! next thing is to fiberglass a center console\shifter so that its covered again. im not sure what im going to do about finishing them. black vynl + carpet i think.

here is the fuse box for the radio harness as the DVA-9861 does not have a built in fuse on the back of the radio









IT WORKS! 









also i got a new door switch group from a 4 door golf. the cool part is that the pin-out is exactly the same, but the extra pins are omitted for the two other window switch in the harness. so i am going to re-locate the trunk pop and gas cap pop so that i can have more room down in the speaker area to work with. it should be fairly simple!












and i got some ideas about mounting the horns, and thats the next project i can work on at this stage. the problem that i found is that the lower dash on the passenger side is about 2 inches lower than the driver side! WTF? so, i can get the horns about another inch deeper and a bit wider this time, and they will be level as well, but not as deep as i would like them 

maybe ill pound in the metal a bit to see if i can get them deeper.

driver side









passenger side


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

The hatch/gas switches relocation has been done in the past with great success. So don't worry, you'll get it right first time.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

any links to anyone else who has done it? the search function blows on vwvortex and never comes up with anything relavant. im sure it should be straight forward. but seeing it before i perform surgery would be neat


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I'm trying hard to remember where I've seen it, it's definitely on a car audio board, most probably TalkAudio, and IIRC it was a Passat, but until it comes back to me that's all I can give you.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

 oh well


----------



## JP Fabrication

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> next thing is to fiberglass a center console\shifter so that its covered again. im not sure what im going to do about finishing them. black vynl + carpet i think.


Here is a console mod I made for my R, just to be different.

VWVortex.com - Audi TT shifter ring mod


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ok so that is awesome. kind of the idea im looking for, but im going to delete the forward console part to help the horns cross fire under it a bit. the center dash is actually cocked toward the driver a bit and nothing is symmetrical and that makes everything a pain in my ass.

im going to try and use the aft part of the console, and fiberglass some kind of new front section that just covers the shift hole to the transmission, then make another sort of skirt that attaches to the bottom center piece that comes on the dash (you know that little 6 inch piece) and just make a cover for those metal brackets that hold the dash up.

its not on my top priority litst of things to do. right now i have 4 things i want to complete. 

1. install horns.
2. install idq8s in the doors
3. fabricate tabs on the baffle brackets to secure sub baffle.
4. reinstall the rest of the interior parts.

and then ill worry about the center console fab part.


----------



## JP Fabrication

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Let me know if you need the wiring diagrams for your switches.


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I CHALLENGE YOU TO A DUEL

my worklog thread will be going up as soon as i can get some shmexy pics of my new car... 
sucks cause im busy all hours of daylight until like Sunday


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



crnacnac said:


> Let me know if you need the wiring diagrams for your switches.


that would be incredibly helpful!

can you get the 4 door switch and the 2 door switch for 2003 golf diagrams?




voltij said:


> I CHALLENGE YOU TO A DUEL
> 
> my worklog thread will be going up as soon as i can get some shmexy pics of my new car...
> sucks cause im busy all hours of daylight until like Sunday


lol brian, what kind of duel? like who can finish first duel? im almost done now haha


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i went to the store to try and find some good mounting stuff for the horns, because the other night i was actually laying in bed trying to fall asleep and thinking about mounting options. the blower motor on the passenger side is large and way low, so the driver side horn is going to be much lower than the bottom of the dash. trying to level them out is going to be tricky, so i kind of made a cool thing and some other stuff.

so i found this pipe strap that is thick and has a sweet 2" loop on the back. with a little bending i got the loop to be the same diameter as the CDUltra motor, and i plan on mounting it to the dash support (you can see where i got some screwdrivers through the holes for some temporary aligning i did just before i had to leave for work)



just to figure out where these are going to sit, i got some thick tape to hold them in place so i can figure out where im going to mount the horn.









as you can see, i used a piece of extruded L shaped aluminum on the edge of the horn to extend under the dash to the driver side to get an idea of how low these are actually going to be. its quite low on the driver side, hopefully it will not interfere with the pedals - i think it might be a bit lower than it needs to be due to the middle under dash and the passenger side horn being angled downward a bit. i need to buy a small level. i have a laser level i think im going to try an use. its going to be tricky though! :uhoh:


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> lol brian, what kind of duel? like who can finish first duel? im almost done now haha


More like build quality, ideas implemented, and the general public's opinion of the worklog 

I have some cool stuff planned... :O

Hey btw should I just post worklog here (DIYMA forums) or other places too?
I see that caraudio.com is kind of retarded as of late...


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ya. i posted over there, and got like 2 replies. and i posted on this other forum, and there is like 12 members. i dont see the point of posting anywhere unless its here or the vwvortex forums (car specific).

the people here are the only ones that really make sense.

*
oh, and visitors, please feel free to give my thread stars or any of that other thread option stuff if you like or dislike *


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> ya. i posted over there, and got like 2 replies. and i posted on this other forum, and there is like 12 members. i dont see the point of posting anywhere unless its here or the vwvortex forums (car specific).
> 
> the people here are the only ones that really make sense.
> 
> *
> oh, and visitors, please feel free to give my thread stars or any of that other thread option stuff if you like or dislike *


okay mr. e-peen


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

theheh


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> theheh


/threadjack/

i need 8" mid drivers that get loud as fcuk and dont need much volume (sealed)

tell me what's up


----------



## hcaleman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Some good looking work going on here, especially making use of the parking lot and friend's pick-up gate. I should feel ashamed of myself that I whine of lack of space in my detached garage and yard and driveway.


----------



## yeldak99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



hcaleman said:


> Some good looking work going on here, especially making use of the parking lot and friend's pick-up gate. I should feel ashamed of myself that I whine of lack of space in my detached garage and yard and driveway.


To hell with you and you're bragging!!! Us apartment guys get **** done!!!! Well, I'm not included in that. I can't even bring myself to do some tuning in the cold right now.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i played around with the horns yesterday, unfortunately i can not go much deeper or much wider than i had them because the passenger side is my limitation.

BUT! i had the horns not level with each other before because i did not realize how different the dash was on each side! its off by like 3 inches, i dont know how i did not see it before! 

so with a lot of tape to hold them in place while i figure out where to put brackets (there are some good dash frame spots under there!) this is what i have currently.




























it might be kind of hard to understand that - but i bought those pipe hangars that i showed above, and they are awesome! fit right around the motor (with a bit of bending) and i will screw them together with some closed cell foam between them and the speaker. 

then i bought a roll of plastic pipe perforated hangey stuff. trying to fab metal and hold the horn in place is hard as crap - so i am using plastic back-strap for a temporary mount, then im going to make metal brackets and remove the plastic so its mega rigid!

after today (friday) i should be done with the horns i hope, and i can put the dash and the glove box back in. then i wait on my baffles in the mail! 

im also putting my bumper on today (pics of that when it happens)

and um. i might weld the tabs for the baffle on tonight i think. depends on what the wife and i are doing. i just dropped her off at work. i got home at like midnight from work, and we dropped her car off at the shop for an alignment just now. so im going back to sleep.

see you all soon i guess


----------



## hcaleman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



yeldak99 said:


> To hell with you and you're bragging!!! Us apartment guys get **** done!!!! Well, I'm not included in that. I can't even bring myself to do some tuning in the cold right now.


Ha, yeah. Well what's really tough is every time I go outside to work on something over the weekend I get dragged into some other task around the house. Really need to teach my wife to be handy. Hmm.. no probably not a good idea.

Never heard horns in a car before curious to see how they perform.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

well when im done you can come over and check them out  im headed outside to do some mounting brackets. hopefully its warmer than yesterday


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> well when im done you can come over and check them out  im headed outside to do some mounting brackets. hopefully its warmer than yesterday


You guys are just lucky you have the time to do this stuff in the daylight!!

Right now I'm on two jobs, one is M-F 7am-5pm, other is Fri 6-9pm and Sat 10a-9p. Basically leaves only a couple hours per night and Sunday! And the weeknights are cut even shorter due to my recent attempts to hit the gym after work!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i replaced my bumper. it has a perfect fitment, _almost._

im quite upset with two parts of it. right on the corners of the headlights it does not fit. not like you can shimmy it differently to make it fit, it is about 1\4 inch too wide and there is nowhere for the extra room to go so it bulges here. or, there is something on the side i can not see causing this problem.

other than that, the 1\4 inch of space near the headlights, i love it. but that will bother me to no end.

here are some pictures.


----------



## jackp311

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I love the parcel shelf IB setup. Wonderful build and very original.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thank yuh! 

i worked on mounting the horns more today. the driver side is a bit too low for my liking - but i can still drive without problems. the top of my shoe sometimes touches the back of the horn lens when im using the break... but it would be like an inch differece in height if i raised it. the HVAC stuff on the passenger side is totally in the way 

i got my 8" flush mount IDQ baffles from my buddy g0a in north carolina - and as usual, they are super awesome perfect. so i will be working on putting those in the doors as well!

i got pics on my phone but it ran out of batteries. ill get them up in a little bit!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

pics here 

new baffles, they are like 10 inches!!


















horns mounted with metal back strap and speed clips!. they are pretty sturdy!


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

coming along nicely. Grill Cloth those horns. just wrap them in grill cloth. Keep them as "invisible" as possible.


and If I finish my new car before you finish your existing install, then you are really slow!!!


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Mic10is said:


> and If I finish my new car before you finish your existing install, then you are really slow!!!


What is this car you speak of?


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ah shadup mic lol


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



AccordUno said:


> What is this car you speak of?


i got a new daily driver. 02 Lancer OZ. going to build w my wife for modified class.
BMW is delegated to competition car only


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Great. Now I need to revisit my plans on my car.. 

Req, car is coming along nicely. Not sure if I could go so long without tunes for this long..


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

hehe, thanks for the comments everyone. Mic, i have grill cloth in the house. i am actually going to put some sound deadening on them when i take them BACK out to solder the wires and finalize them! *thank god*

then i get to cut my door panels up :uhoh: im really hoping to have the speakers playing by this weekend. and then ill build a beauty panel for the doors and put everything back together. last thing im going to worry about is making a beauty panel for the shifter\center console area.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i got my horns soldered up and wired into the car. i got them finally installed. i could not get them to go back much further, maybe like a half of an inch, but they did go outboard a little more. and they are now level with each other. and they are ultra's instead of CD2's! I also put a few bits of CLD tiles on them to dampen the vibrations in the horn lense. I also covered them with some partsexpress grille cloth. all i have to do is make a transition from the dash to the driver side horn mouth. but i am going to worry about installing the door speakers first.





































i did work on the doors a bit yesterday too. with the help of some tinsnips, a razor with a locking blade, and a sweet pair of plier things i was able to cut out the holes for the larger format flushmount baffles in about an hour. i just need to get the IDQ's mounted properly inside the door now lol.



















i am lucky, the leather insert panel is exactly the perfect distance from the corner area that i could fit these so i didnt have to cut it lol. *phew* 

hopefully i can get the door speakers installed this week and get things back in a listenable format. i need to take my car to my friends house to weld the mounting tabs to the baffle bracket, then all i have to do is make things pretty!! im almost done!


----------



## SUBSONIC_WARFARE

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Funny how the pics make it look so easy, not counting putting stuff in and taking it out 5000x to get it to fit JUST RIGHT. The center console/shifter area would look really slick with a smooth fiberglass valance with a vinyl or leather wrap, if you ask me. I'm keen to see how you handle it. Props for the progress so far. Now I'm excited to start mine (Last of the parts finally came in, woohoo!)


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thats the kind of idea i was going to toy with. im going to try and make a beauty panel to attach to the front of the console to cover the transmission\shifter hole that is left from removal of the forward console area. then im going to try and make a beauty panel under the center console that is tucked back as far as possible under the dash to help the horns in the car environment more


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i did a mockup in the car with the baffles. its going to be a 2 piece sandwich idea. basically i made another ring that is the OD of the IDQ, and the speaker will mount to this, and this will mount to the doorskin. im going to have to fiberglass a base for these because after i cut out a bit of metal that was in the way, the door is not flat anymore, so my base will have to be curvy to fit. so i will mount the first ring to the fiberglass base, then seal them together with more fiberglass. the IDQ should fit in no problems and then they should work!

then im going to take my flushmount ring, and invert it. it will make it so that the screw holes will not show, and you will just see the cone of the IDQ. then from this ring i can fiberglass over to the door panel and wrap it in black vynl for finishing. this way removing the door panel is as simple as taking the cover off the speaker, and taking the door panel off - rather than remove speaker, remove pod, remove door as it was before. 

and i will be able to open my glove box fully while the doors are closed again!

quick pic of stuff. this was just seeing the fitment of the flushmount ring and the depth of the IDQ to the window pane. everything should fit fine! im like 1\4 inch from the window motor tho haha!



















so next step - fiberglass base on door metal.


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

hey ur logo's upside down


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Horsemanwill said:


> hey ur logo's upside down


No that's his way of changing phase 180 degrees


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

HAHA, yea - i did that to make the soundwaves come out upside down to meld with the efficency of the horns lol.


----------



## Miniboom

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey, man! Love your car, that's a beauty for sure!

I also like your IB/Trunk baffle setup, I did the same thing in my PT Cruiser. I tried with different woofers before settling on a little different approach, that gave more sub-bass (<30hz) and better punch/attack due to the increased rigidity.

Basically, I changed the flat baffle to this:










It's like an enclosure, only it's got three 10-inch holes in the "bottom" plate, venting into the trunk. 

From the beginning, I also added a vertical MDF-board to seal behind the rear seats. Don't know if you've tried that, but when I was done, I only had a few very minor leaks from the trunk! 

The trunk looked like this (notice the extra space you get from removing the woofer baskets).... :


----------



## subwoofery

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Took me some time to understand but yeah... Good design  Nice of you to think out of the box... 

Kelvin


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so miniboom, what did you do to reinforce the hatcha area to hold that up?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

did some fiberglassing for the first base of the passenger side.

pics.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

did the other side today. tomorrow im going to put a few mre layers on them and then i should be ready to build the "volcano" thats going to hold the speaker and mount it to the door 

this is the passenger side sanded with 40 grit and placed on the door where its going to be.









test fit of the driver side speaker and baffles









painters tape , then aluminum tape (this is on top of painters tape because it is a pain in the ass to remove if you stick it straight to the first surface), then marker for the area that i want to create, then wax from a candle for a release agent.









got all my supplies ready and the fiberglass pulled into tiny circles for quick work. also - i always find it easier to glass if you cut 1\2 the bristle length on the brush in use. makes it stiffer and easier to remove bubbles from the glass layers.









glass all layed up, now its time to clean up and head out to the navy job.









i think this weekend i will be listening to music


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey, where did you get your FG materials? I may be starting as early as Thursday on fiberglassing kicks and I'm fresh out of materials. I may as well just buy everything new at this point (resin, hardener, weave/matte). What do you suggest for weave/matte and from where? Home depot stuff or from the internets?


also thanks for the procedure of how you laid everything down, i'll be borrowing it 

especially this part:


> i always find it easier to glass if you cut 1\2 the bristle length on the brush in use.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

no problems brian. the driver door went WAY faster today than it did when my wife was helping me yesterday. simply because i tore up the fiberglass weave into circles with the main part the size of a poker chip, and the feathered edges about the size of a baseball.

then make sure all the supplies are out and everything is masked off before you even open the resin. a mixing stick, brush thats cutted, mixing cup, resin, hardener, tore'ed up glass, gloves, and tunes playing.

then i like to paint the surface im glassing with a nice layer of resin, and then take the pieces and cover the whole surface work area in the first layer, then move from the cetner outwards adding more resin as you soak it in. using the LEAST amount of resin as possible will make your final product at its strongest. put down as many layers as will soak up the resin in the first sitting as you can. 

also, if you can do FLUSH MOUNT rings - i highly recommend it because the enclosures look a million times better in the long run.

hmmm. and use fiberglass mat, because you can tear it and feather the edges together real well. it also ends up being stronger because there is no pattern involved. 

i bought that fiberglass that we used when you came to NY from Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc.. but for a pair of kicks you can just get stuff from a local marine supply store (because bondo glassing products are not the best on the market) but if you cant locate any of those just go to pepboys\autozone\lowes\homedepot\ect. i have a military 10% discount with lowes, so i usually just go there. i only used about 4oz or so of resin for the base mould of my driver door thing.

and if you can have a helping hand, i strongly suggest it. i think ill have my wife take a video next time maybe 

more pics brian


----------



## Miniboom

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> so miniboom, what did you do to reinforce the hatcha area to hold that up?


Sorry for the late response. The "shelf"/baffle-box/whatever name fits, was sitting firmly on top of the wall against the back seat. Most of the weight was in front of the box, and it was cut to fit perfectly when the hatch was closed. So it didn't move at all when everything was in place.

If it would survive a head-on crash, well... Hardly. But most installs built like that wouldn't, I think - the subs would probably tear out the screws or pull parts of the box with it, and fly through the windshield, etc... :surprised:

I should start a company, and name it "Deathtrap Audio". 

Here's how it was sitting in the car:


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Miniboom said:


> Here's how it was sitting in the car:
> 
> <pic>]


You should definitely consider removing your headrests! It would look way better.


----------



## Miniboom

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



voltij said:


> You should definitely consider removing your headrests! It would look way better.


Hehe, yes, and more magnetic towards thieves... Doesn't matter, I sold the car in november.

But I agree, it did look better with the headrests removed.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

did some more glassing this morning. i also bought 6 pounds of duct seal. basically its the same thing as modeling clay, but it does not get waxy or melt. im going to impregnate it with BB's to add tons of mass to the pods when im done. it should be cool.


it was rainy today. so i didnt do much. i hope these cure well with the himidity :uhoh:









only one picture because i had to get to work, i was almost late today lol!! i put about 4 or 5 more layers down. so they should be about a quarter inch thick i hope. nice and strong base for my pods. i plan on securing these in three or four spots around the perimiter and glassing a tube up to the mounting ring for the IDQ's.

real simple. then ill just make a cover that sits over the face of the door panel to make it look nice


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

hmmm. wouldnt it have been easier to make a baffle. attach it to the door and then build onto the door panel for the grill. If the speaker mounts to the door panel it really increase the amount of resonance the panel will have.

Im not following the need for the fiberglass piece you are making, seems like alot of extra work.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

mic, im building the speaker to the metal door panel, but the door panel is not flat since i had to cut the metal. i wanted to make a wooden base - but it would not sit flush to facilitate mounting firmly. im going to put some of the duct seal in beteween the door and the base to decouple it a bit as well.

basically im going to attach the speaker baffle to the base, and then attach a cover over it that is attached to the door panel or use magnets or something to pop it on there easily.

i will not be mounting the speaker to the plastic door panel. i know that is a nono


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

what if you attached the baffle to the door where it is flat (if possible) then use duraglass to fill in around the areas you have gaps. Similar idea to what you are doing just takes less time.
then attach that recessed baffle for the grill to the door panel and male a pod or whatever for that to integrate into the door panel.

after doing things for many many years (still do sometimes) in what ended up being a very round about way, Ive learned to look for the simplest method possible and try to avoid using fiberglass as much as possible, even tho I fiberglass alot.

I used to fiberglass everything, but the more I learned from the "Pros" the more I found out that they do a ton of out wood and then duraglass and lastly will use fiberglass.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

like this!












Mic10is said:


> what if you attached the baffle to the door where it is flat (if possible) then use duraglass to fill in around the areas you have gaps. Similar idea to what you are doing just takes less time.
> then attach that recessed baffle for the grill to the door panel and male a pod or whatever for that to integrate into the door panel.
> 
> after doing things for many many years (still do sometimes) in what ended up being a very round about way, Ive learned to look for the simplest method possible and try to avoid using fiberglass as much as possible, even tho I fiberglass alot.
> 
> I used to fiberglass everything, but the more I learned from the "Pros" the more I found out that they do a ton of out wood and then duraglass and lastly will use fiberglass.


the biggest problem i have is that i dont have a router table, or a table at all for that matter. i have to use my back stoop to cut things with lol. i live in a little apartment so finding space to store my tools is a nightmare, and finding places to work on stuff is just as dificult. i weighed the pros and cons of doing things, and i dont want it to be permanently attached to the door, but i wanted it as strong as i could make it. i wanted to do wood at first, but i only had a small piece, and i dont have a place to use my router and its basically more of a pain than using glass in my case because of my work area. i can make it solid and a single piece with glass and get the angle perfect as well. i dont have sanding tools, or an air compressor, or any of that fancy stuff. so i concluded that making it glass will do what i need with the materials i had on hand (i already had the fiberglass resin and cloth). AND i could even make it so that i could put an AP vent on the back if i wanted!! we will see.

thats why i went with fiberglass 

but i agree mic, i would have used wood if i had the work area to work on it and if i had some wood on hand, and if the panel was a bit more level.


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> like this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the biggest problem i have is that i dont have a router table, or a table at all for that matter. i have to use my back stoop to cut things with lol. i live in a little apartment so finding space to store my tools is a nightmare, and finding places to work on stuff is just as dificult. i weighed the pros and cons of doing things, and i dont want it to be permanently attached to the door, but i wanted it as strong as i could make it. i wanted to do wood at first, but i only had a small piece, and i dont have a place to use my router and its basically more of a pain than using glass in my case because of my work area. i can make it solid and a single piece with glass and get the angle perfect as well. i dont have sanding tools, or an air compressor, or any of that fancy stuff. so i concluded that making it glass will do what i need with the materials i had on hand (i already had the fiberglass resin and cloth). AND i could even make it so that i could put an AP vent on the back if i wanted!! we will see.
> 
> thats why i went with fiberglass
> 
> but i agree mic, i would have used wood if i had the work area to work on it and if i had some wood on hand, and if the panel was a bit more level.


Yeh I know what you mean, but as long as you have semi understanding neighbors you can do alot.
I built my BMW in the parking lot and back patio of our townhome complex when it won finals. Actually I build my Eclipse, Integra and Civic and another couple cars that way.
and thats what friends are for. cut everything at their house and glass, bondo and sand at yours.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

hahaha. i dont really has friends with that stuff in close driving. plus i need to do the stuff on my time, not theirs. so i know its a bit extra work - but the results will be the same, and ill have more room in there since the glass is much thinner than the wood will be - so basically ill have more room for the deadening of the pod lol


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ok so my post got deleted because my firefox4 crashed because i was playing some awesome video of a hyena eating out the ass of a dead elephant lol.

anywho - heres what i got so far. with the help of my buddy paul, and the acceptance of my wonderful wife, i did some work today. it was 80 degrees!! HOT!

trimmed fiberglass bases, sanded them, mounted the baffles, stretched the cloth, and applied the resin to them. so they fit and they are almost complete!!

unfortunately, i was unable to fit the baffles the way i wanted, so i had to just put them in the conventional way  i only got a few pics lol - so heres what i have. they are drying in the back and its dark, so pics of them wrapped tomorrow!



more to follow!


----------



## Eastman474

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

This build is really impressive :thumbsup:


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thank you for the compliment! i did some work and the pods are on the doors, but i had a really busy day helping a friend with stuff and i didnt get them glassed. i plan on doing that tomorrow and *hopefully* they will be screaming music tomorrow!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

got the door pods wrapped and glassed with the help of my wife! thanks babe! all thats left is to trim the edges and mount them in the door with the speakers. then just a beauty panel to make them pretty.



and we welded the tabs on the brackets on ... the brackets lol - so i can bolt the baffle down. i was going to drill all the holes - but my drill ran out of batteries haha. so ill finish that up tomorrow. but i feel good to have gotten all the trunk carpet and plastic back in place. almost there!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

its my wife Carly's birthday today, so no work to do today. I got her new roller blade wheels and bearings, a motorcycle jacket (as she does not have one yet), and im taking her out to a movie theatre dinner place. yesterday we went to abby road resturant on the virginia beach boulevard.

see you tomorrow when i get the IDQ's installed!


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Happy birthday to her!


----------



## Eastman474

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



n_olympios said:


> Happy birthday to her!


X2 ^^


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks guys! ill let her know 

and good news, and bad news. speakers are installed finally. holes are drilled for the baffle but i need to get longer bolts.

bad news is i dont have any pictures. im going to vacuum all the debris out tomorrow as it is dark out. and ill take some pics. im exhausted, so shower + bed. being up early and on day shift is killing me lol. im not used to being up so early haha.

so ill have the stereo running by friday. im so pumped.


----------



## anthonyott99

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

That car is really sweet looking dude, and you do good work too !!!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks for the compliments!!

got the mids installed last night, here are some quick pics i grabbed before work.


----------



## m0sdef

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

that looks awesome!!! keep up the great work!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i plugged everything in for the first time in however long i cant remember in the dark last night, and my left IDQ didnt work, turns out that the speaker lead came off the speaker while i was screwing it in. 

its a stupid design anyway, there are 4-way solder\quick connect tabs on the side of the basket. but the hole cut out for the basket makes it almost impossible to use the tabs because the quick connects come out horizontal to the cone movement and interfere with the baffle, so you need to bend them way over to get the speaker to fit. i must have rotated it and pulled it out.

either way, i figured it out and everything else worked perfect. 

now i just need to do EQ. level match. clean the car. 

i need to fix one of the baffle bolts because my smart ass drilled one of the subwoofer baffle holes too close to the angle iron side and i cant get the bolt on there 

my apartment is a mess right now. i need to be at work by 9:30am and my wife just left. i think im going back to sleep...

sigh.



oh yea. and my doors rattle like nothing else. 2 pounds of duct seal (like modeling clay) in the pods, ~10 pounds or so of deadener on the inside of the door. i have not put deadener on the door card, so i really think i need to do that. looks like ill be placing an order for some sound deadener, because these rattles are killer.


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> so i plugged everything in for the first time in however long i cant remember in the dark last night, and my left IDQ didnt work, turns out that the speaker lead came off the speaker while i was screwing it in.
> 
> its a stupid design anyway, there are 4-way solder\quick connect tabs on the side of the basket. but the hole cut out for the basket makes it almost impossible to use the tabs because the quick connects come out horizontal to the cone movement and interfere with the baffle, so you need to bend them way over to get the speaker to fit. i must have rotated it and pulled it out.
> 
> either way, i figured it out and everything else worked perfect.
> 
> now i just need to do EQ. level match. clean the car.
> 
> i need to fix one of the baffle bolts because my smart ass drilled one of the subwoofer baffle holes too close to the angle iron side and i cant get the bolt on there
> 
> my apartment is a mess right now. i need to be at work by 9:30am and my wife just left. i think im going back to sleep...
> 
> sigh.
> 
> 
> 
> oh yea. and my doors rattle like nothing else. 2 pounds of duct seal (like modeling clay) in the pods, ~10 pounds or so of deadener on the inside of the door. i have not put deadener on the door card, so i really think i need to do that. looks like ill be placing an order for some sound deadener, because these rattles are killer.


deadner wont do anything
get a roll of yellow insulation and cram in between the door panel and the door itself in every possible cavity and crevice.
but could also just be an eq issue


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yellow insulation? 

you mean yellow fiberglass insualtion?

can you post a link to what kind of material you are refering to mic?


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yellow fiberglass insulation. its denser than polyfill. donot use pink unless you like to be itchy and have your lunch catch on fire everyday
In your area , like ours, they may not have yellow so get white, same general thing.

also, may want to do some dense foam behind the pod where it attaches to the door. sometimes clay materials are too solid and donot decouple enough.
so a couple cheap options. there are these blue foam camping pads at walmart that Ive used in the past that work well.
and also foam adding insulation by armorex i think.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks for the tips mic.

i used the duct seal to decouple the pods (well, housings\baffles) from the door panel, and like you said, its seriously firm, about the consistancy of clay. i think that foam will be a better idea... ill give it a try. 

i know what you are talking about as far as the insulation stuff. should i use polyester or glass wool? ill see what i can do. 

i think im going to use some hot glue to make sure the door cards are together and not buzzing against the joints.

blue foam camping pads, i know what you mean. but do you mean between the pod and the door? that might be too thick of a material to retain the door to fit. im not sure how much further out i can push the pod lol. its got some tight tolerances.

i thought i snapped some pictures, but i guess i didnt lol. ill see what i can do. its raining out so i dont know what i can do. ill try the insualtion because it seems to be a simple solution.


----------



## flipside1212

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

coming along good


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i got some water in the pod. so i guess ill be making something to prevent this.


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

just do a "vapor" barrier like they use on factory stuff so that the watter will just go "around" everything


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yea i have a simple idea. im going to make some of those "foam speaker cups" that people have, but im going to make it out of mass loaded vynl lol. i have a bunch of scraps that should be fine. some hot glue and some scissors should do the trick.

i also am loading up the door panels with mass loaded vynl, and as instructed by Mic Wallace, im going to put a bunch of insualtion (you know, wall insualtion) in there too. i got some serious buzzing going on lol!!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

some stuff i did to the rattling door panels. it has come to my attention that all the plugs that connect to the switches and such were rattling. the panels were vibrating, and in general there were too many buzz'z.

so i took my high temp glue gun and reinforced all the joints between the panels and such. just after this there were significantly less panel noises just when i was holding the door cards.

then i took the scraps i had left over of Mass Loaded Vynl (souddeadenershowdown) and used the hot glue gun to attach it all to the inside of the panel. now they are way more rigid and about 3 pounds heavier lol. i need to put a few more pieces on there, but i ran out of scraps.

i hope this helps.


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Are you done yet? :laugh: BTW, I remember those days of building the car in the parking lot, even did it when I was TDY to Ft. Euseless, I mean Ft. Eustis..


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

haha. yea man, im close. i just had to fix this water issue, and there were tons of door panel rattles, so im fixing it 

i hope i can finish by saturday because i have a SQ meet in blackburg, VA to go to!


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I wish I could do that to my door cards/panels. Alas, they hold the window mechanism.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yikes, really? you drive a Seat or an old porche or something? i just wish that my door panels used screws all the way around versus the stupid snap in parts?


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

A Seat, check the link in my signature. 

Edit: if I drove an old Porsche I wouldn't care for the door cards. :laugh:


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol, i guessed seat because i saw your install before 


amazing job on those pillars. they came out perfect in my opinion!



i finished loading the doors with MLV. i also put a layer of epoxy resin on the exposed MDF for the door pods, so i dont have to worry about them being wet. after i removed the IDQ8's i noticed that i was definatly getting tinsel slap, because i can see marks on the back side of the cone from rubbing. i am going to shorten the tinsels by a few milimeters, and make a rain shield for them. 

i *should* have friday off, and all day saturday to finish and do *SOME* tuning hhahah. (ya right)

then im off to the blacksburg, VA meet on sunday the 3rd of april!


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I wish I would have done better water prevention for my mids. I have a hella water damaged xs65 on my hands now


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yea, im glad that i saw that there is a rain problem this early. there should be no damage on my door pods now. a nice coat of resin to make sure of this. so now im just going to make a shield tomorrow. i was planning on doing it today - but i had to stay late at work to be a catch crew for four of our f/a-18e superhornets returning from nellis, nevada. once they got back (about 1730ish) i got home by 6 and made dinner with my wife, but the sun was already going down. so i just epoxied the baffles and finished the MLV with the doors. tomorrow she is bringing me to a suprise concert that is an uncertain distance away, because its a suprise. she even talked to my work center supervisor and got me the day off too.

so i dont know if ill be able to work tomorrow, but friday\saturday is the deadline i have set for a fully functioning and working stereo!


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hmm, just hope it's not the Village People (In the Navy) Sorry man, I'm ex .Mil type, so just a little inter-service ribbing. :laugh::laugh:


----------



## Mikcuz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> so i replaced my bumper. it has a perfect fitment, _almost._
> 
> im quite upset with two parts of it. right on the corners of the headlights it does not fit. not like you can shimmy it differently to make it fit, it is about 1\4 inch too wide and there is nowhere for the extra room to go so it bulges here. or, there is something on the side i can not see causing this problem.
> 
> other than that, the 1\4 inch of space near the headlights, i love it. but that will bother me to no end.
> 
> here are some pictures.



This Bumper is 5000x better in my opinion! Now just get some coilovers bro!


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looking great, Req! Really awesome work!

I was looking at your horn 'problem', and it's a good one. I bet if you tried real hard you could juuust get the passenger side horn body just above the lower mounting bracket of the dash. That plastic bar with the metal reinforcement that the bottom of the glovebox assembly attaches to. It looks like the horn motor could possibly sit in that little nook just to the right of the A/C unit. That would raise the horn on that side, and it looks like you should be able to get the body into the lower section of the glovebox. Then you are a trim-strip away from gold on that side.

The driver's side will be more work. The relay box is in the way, but having been in there there is some leeway. It isn't attached by much, and I am certain it can be moved, but to do it effectively you have to pull the entire dash. Once in there I bet you can rotate it 90 degrees and be good. Turn the right side of the box to you and slide towards the steering column. Directly above that spot is a perch for the Immo box and you should be able to remount the relay panel there. As someone who has the dash off a couple of times a week lately, that is a pain but it isn't impossible.

My thinking is that if you can get them up into the underdash panels not only would you have some serious integration options at your disposal, but you would regain the much needed space where those pedal things are. I hear your feet are supposed to have access to them for some reason or another...

If you need pics of the area with the dash off just let me know. You can PM and I'll give you my email if you don't already have it. I am certain that we can integrate those horns into the dash and give you dems pedals back!

Then we can talk about those midbasses...


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks Highly. i am weighing some options for things so that i can keep moving forward. but these are always dificult to make decisions. the problem with the horns was, because the dash on the driver side is higher than the passenger side, and i have to utilize the lowest portion of the dash to make both horn speakers even with each other. before i had the CD Ultras, the CD2 motors were so big i did have to relocate the fuse gang that is down there, then i used those mounting areas to hold the horn in place too.

we will see what happens. in the mean time i had a little photo op with a friend who has a 2006 mazda3 with a fairly good system in there too. we just drove around the norfolk beach area and probly illigeally took pictures in places we werent supposed to be driving on lol.


----------



## PiastXD

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

great car 

and great for caraudio projects 

Regards from Germany
Stefan


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice pics! 



req said:


>


That extended rear bumper in the Mazda 3 looks a bit out of proportion. This came to my mind when I saw it. :laugh:

http://www.tribalectic.com/images/Aug2002/PIC3tribal7.jpg

HERE's a pic of a standard spec european 3, I guess the extended bumper is like that due to US laws.


----------



## voltij

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



n_olympios said:


> Nice pics!
> 
> That extended rear bumper in the Mazda 3 looks a bit out of proportion. This came to my mind when I saw it. :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HERE's a pic of a standard spec european 3, I guess the extended bumper is like that due to US laws.


You just ruined my day. CANNOT UNSEE


----------



## n_olympios

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

LOL I just edited my previous post to hide that picture, voltij feel free to do the same in my quote. Click the link at your own risk. :lol:


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> thanks Highly. i am weighing some options for things so that i can keep moving forward. but these are always dificult to make decisions. the problem with the horns was, because the dash on the driver side is higher than the passenger side, and i have to utilize the lowest portion of the dash to make both horn speakers even with each other. before i had the CD Ultras, the CD2 motors were so big i did have to relocate the fuse gang that is down there, then i used those mounting areas to hold the horn in place too.


I know, it's rough especially not having an alternate vehicle and a place to work on it. If you find yourself pondering things in that direction I have my dash off every few days and have taken a number of pictures to help show where the space is. I don't have horns on hand or I would be more than happy to help trial-fitting to determine what can be done there. I think it would be ubercool to be able to flush them into the bottom few inches of the dash panels on both sides, and I think the space can be made available. Please, if you are interested in moving forward on that but find yourself needing anything to push you over the edge (now or in the future!) do not hesitate to contact me. I think you could push this trough 'really nice' into 'freaking spectacular' and I'd be thrilled to help however I can.

Would you mind PMing me your email address? I will have some pics together by the end of this weekend that you will really appreciate 

-T


----------



## abbyjhon

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

nice pics thanks for info..............



-------------------------
L keys, Pins


----------



## blazerpounds

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

if youre interested in a set of coilovers for your gti, I have a brand new set in the box kw v.2's for gti 1.8t... lemme know if youre interested!


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Wow. I lost track of this build thread. You really did a **** ton of work. Looked very nice @ the show. Can't wait to hear what you do with it once ya get the 701 issues ironed out.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks man, i really liked how polished your amprack was. very impressive to me! =)


----------



## Sleeves

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey req, did you see the PM I sent you last week?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i thought i replied to you already.

i did, but unfortunately i had to get the door panels in by thursday and did not have enough time to wait, so i had already purchased new ones for two shows this past weekend. sorry man, thank you for taking your time to get those out, im sorry that i could not buy them.


----------



## tintbox

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey pooh. Nice build log. You gonna try to make the show tomorrow?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Second place my friend!


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> Second place my friend!


Pics of the shiny!


----------



## JayinMI

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



highly said:


> Pics of the shiny!


Are all you guys attracted to shiny things? ADD much? 

Nice job.

Jay


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol. its in the back of the car still LOL. 

ill get them together and shoot a pic up here. gimme a bit


----------



## Dlordssoldier

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

wow, I can only imagine how the system sounds


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thanks for the compliment, but it could sound better than I think it does. I'm having some. low staging issues and there are several things I need to clean up.oh well.


----------



## 37wref

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Amazing work on this install, hopefully some inspiration and motivation for my own.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thanks for the kind words. I need to post some new pictures. Tthere have been some changes but I may be changing amplifiers :-O


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

changing to! You know I don't do well with this suspense sh!t


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Lol still in the research phase


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

well i bought new amplifiers.

and i started work today on a dock for my motarola droid x2.


so, does anyone need some memphis amplifiers? i have two for sale


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

The changes look great Andy! I bet the sound has improved with every show you have attended in the past few months - road warrior! I can't wait to see pics of the amps in the car. I would especially like to hear those amps in the car! I might try to figure out a way to do that before you move up north. I would love to hear that Stevie Ray Vaughn track again - breathtaking!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hana im glad you are still enjoying it. Unfortunately I am post move at this current juncture. But I may be at a show close to you in the near future. So we should plan ahead for that.


----------



## bertholomey

I forgot to mention in my earlier post..... say Hey to Paul for me (and Carly if that Isn't too weird).


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol, well im in new york now (i should update my userCP huh?) and paul is still in virginia. but i will shoot him a text and i will let the wife know you said hello


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**










Amplifiers are being shipped. New amp floor must be built with easier access to spare tire and I want to be able to remove the tire without taking the subs out... going to be tricky!


----------



## MTopper

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

how are you liking that motorola phone? i'm looking at it for my next one and can't find any problems with it while in store.


----------



## tintbox

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Looking good Pooh.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ehh.... since you begged for people to post in your build thread I might as well sub' it 

Hey guys!


----------



## ecbmxer

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Damn, those are some nice amps. What exactly did you get and how will they run which speakers?


----------



## mattyjman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> well i bought new amplifiers.


copy cat... 

those sure are damn nice amps. sexy as hell for sure.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i am waiting on them in the mail, but they will be as such,

Two Mosconi AS200.4 amplifiers;

200 x 4 @ 4 ohms x 2 (so 200 x 8)

but i will be running them as such;

100 x 2 @ 8 ohms, 200 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 900 x 2 @ 2 ohms


i plan on having one amp for the left channel and one amp for the right channel. it should be awesome! look for a vw gti de-build and re-build thread. i think ill start again with some pics that ive taken recently. 

thanks guys!


----------



## ecbmxer

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

So you'll have stereo subs then? That should be an awesome setup! I'm gonna make it out to another MECA event sometime and would love to see those amps.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yes sir i will 

i dont think it will make much of a difference, but it will exist haha. it just means im going to have to rewire them


----------



## fenis

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey req are you able to upload the build pics of your door pods again? The links appear to be broken!! I'm planning on doing something similar to my legacy gt doors and it looks daunting!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

shoot me a PM and we can talk about it.


----------



## bertholomey

Checkin' in.......


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Relax mon...

2011 work was beginning.

*explosion*

Somone set us up the bomb!
What you say?!?!


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> Relax mon...
> 
> 2011 work was beginning.
> 
> *explosion*
> 
> Somone set us up the bomb!
> What you say?!?!


English Boom pow.....


----------



## JayinMI

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Is that some crazy dubstep song or something?



Jay


----------



## bertholomey

req said:


> Relax mon...
> 
> 2011 work was beginning.
> 
> *explosion*
> 
> Somone set us up the bomb!
> What you say?!?!


Wow, that move from Virginia to New York really had a big effect..... changed your vocabulary and everything.... I didn't know you moved to Jamaica Queens


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Haha. Set us up the bomb? NY can't take credit for that one...


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Man. You guys are out of touch with the internet lol.

YouTube - ‪All Your Base Are Belong To Us‬‏


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Welcome to 90's geek talk Req.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

shouldnt i be welcoming you to my geek talk?


anywho. pics of stuff.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**























































and thats as far as i got 

hopefully i can hook them up soon. sigh.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice bench and couple of cars ;-) lol


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

ut oh!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



turbo5upra said:


> Nice bench and couple of cars ;-) lol


shush you. 

i am not sure how the aluminum is going to hold up. hopefully it gets more rigid once the amplifiers are mounted to it. if not im going to have to think up some way to get it to be more sturdy across the flat portion.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

a 1/8" lip down them would have stiffened it right up.... just let me know if ya need a hand with a welder for it...


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

how much space is there between the bottom amp and the top amps support?


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Very nice! I love the look of those 200.4's - they certainly are best stacked in your tight quarters  Can't wait to see the finished appearance and get your impressions on the overall sound difference from your old set up and the new one (dynamics, presence, etc.).


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ya brian. I was thinking more of a rib pressed into the metal like you see in truckbeds fo stiffen it instead of welding.


You will be among the cirst to know jason haha =]


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ya if you can find someone that can roll a couple beads into the flat areas you'll be golden.

Or even someone with a punch press. Punch some flared holes into the aluminum and that will take care of it.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol i dont know anyone with those kinds of tools


----------



## Brian_smith06

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Gay!

JK you actually just gave me a few ideas


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

should be able to get it done for ya...


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

all thats left really is carpet, secure hardware to false floor (i need a few T nuts), secure amps to rack, secure rack to floor (again, T nuts), and wire from that corner to the amps\h701. really only about a days work left till i hear italian! and then i will make a little cover for all this crap lol.

using rivet-nuts (or nut-serts, or whatever else they may be called) to make a firm mounting location for the permanently mounted area of the floor.



















nice and firm on the left side. notice there are two lips for the middle section to rest on to keep things flush.



















amprack only needs to be carpeted. we ran a pair of ribs into the aluminum top to help strengthen it up. its still a bit droopy, but i think that will go away when i mount the amps up.



















used nut-serts to hold the top shelf to the bottom shelf, and used nut-serts for the amps mounting locations




























and this will be the final configuration. i wish there was a way to have access to that fused distribution - but i can not think of a way to access the fuses and the spare tire unless i relocate the fused distro - that might be an option.


----------



## Horsemanwill

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

make a lil pull out drawer for the fuse block


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

see you in md this weekend!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i cant go to md! im working this weekend at watkins glenn winefest!

hmmm, a drawer... i dunno.... i was thinking put it in the door behind the amp rack withe the speaker wire barrier strips.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I kid I kid..... lol mind dropping that optical cable in the male?


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



turbo5upra said:


> I kid I kid..... lol mind dropping that optical cable in the male?


Almost sounds a bit kinky....


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

cant kink it jason! its an optical cable!

i can do this brian. but i need your shipping address. i need to go to the post office tomorrow anyway


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

123 Hard Wang Way
Bentover, NY 13412


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Replace the jack cubby door with a small plex-covered shadowbox. Put the fuse and distro blocks in the shadowbox and run the cables out. Have your local laser shop etch the face of the plex with the DIYMA logo. Edgelight to match the amp illumination or do the red/blue thing from the gauge cluster. Red on positive, blue on ground. 

The door is useless anyway with the current location of the amps. Dorbitz designs has a matching carpet so the new door can be recovered to match. It's not too expensive and the best match I've seen to the factory grey fleck.

-Todd


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I was thinking less flashy =P

But alomg that idea. I was going to slice a new hinge in the stock panel there to allow me to open the top half of the door for access to the barrier strips and fuses. I actually got some unbacked carpet from joann fabrics thats real close. So we will see. And thanks a million for the nutsert info!


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Are the nutserts from the top amp resting on the amp below it? Could use some 3M double-sided trim tape in the middle section of the amp span to keep the aluminum tight against the bottom of the amp?


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Take a look at Per Soder's old install in a 03 golf. bilstereo.just.nu sorry having problems at work with internet to point you to the right link. for some ideas.. It's crazy, yet simple what he did in the car..


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

unfortunately the link to his website does not work 

all i could find was this;
DLS - Photos from competitions & exhibitions

and it has no pictures of his car. 



BowDown said:


> Are the nutserts from the top amp resting on the amp below it? Could use some 3M double-sided trim tape in the middle section of the amp span to keep the aluminum tight against the bottom of the amp?


and no, they are not touching the amp below or it would scratch 

some sticky tape might work. but ill see what happens after carpet and amp mounting


----------



## AccordUno

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I should have save the pictures from his site. there was a pattern back in the day with most euro hatches across the pond, subs in the tub and amps behind the seat or on the side. lots of plexi and aluminum.. Metal frame.. I'll see if I can find it.. How often do you fold down your rear seat?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

often enough to need the space. mostly in the winter when the wife and i go boarding, or when i got lots of crap to move. sometimes ill take the subs out and the seat backs and use it to transport stuff. so having that space is important to me. im not going to sacrifice convince and ergonomics for pretty things. this is my daily driver too.


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



BowDown said:


> 123 Hard Wang Way
> Bentover, NY 13412


hahahaha

can't wait to see those amps installed. still don't know why you switched amps though, :worried: seems kind of unneeded but ic an understand the desire to change things. I have some massive audio amps sitting in my dresser that I plan on eventualy putting in my car to replace one of my PDX amps...no real reason. in fact its a downgrade I think.  but my tweeters and mids don't need 150 watts and never will


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Man has the instinctual need to create. 

Or at least that's what I sell to my wife. :laugh:


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Justin that ain't cool that you posted our address on the interwebz


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

well im at a critical point. almost ready to put stuff back together. spare tire is completely accessible without removing subwoofer baffle or amp rack. all wires are going to be hidden under the amp rack this time, but it will still look quite fresh and so clean!

this is all thanks to tom over at syracuse customs - he helped me out with the amp rack because i dont have the metal working tools to make this kind of stuff. we spent a few hours with the HLVP spray gun and some serious spray glue to get it all worked up. the carpet is all in place, i just gotta go out there today and bolt the left floor panel down, install the H701 and ground distribution block under the amp rack, figure out where im going to mount the fused distribution then hook it all up and put everything else back together.

ugh. almost there haha. pics.








































and my favorite part;









hahahh. pooh bear strikes again!



feedback?


----------



## bertholomey

eviling said:


> hahahaha
> 
> can't wait to see those amps installed. still don't know why you switched amps though, :worried: seems kind of unneeded but ic an understand the desire to change things. I have some massive audio amps sitting in my dresser that I plan on eventualy putting in my car to replace one of my PDX amps...no real reason. in fact its a downgrade I think.  but my tweeters and mids don't need 150 watts and never will


I understand..... the reason to change....... I finally know the difference between having dynamic headroom and not having it. 

I really like the amp rack - I think that is going to really look nice, and of course they will be very easy to get to.


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Wow that came out awesome! Great job man.

I'll be going out there Saturday to have them (re)carpet my sub box... You going to stop by? Would love to check it out in person.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

gonna be in watkins glenn for the wine fest. friends of the wifes family own a winery and we are going to be helping them out saturday and sunday. otherwise id be in maryland for the DIYMA show. sorry man!

thanks for the words jason 

best part is - full size spare can be removed in minutes with all the equipment installed - plus i still have quite a bit of trunk space 

i will be making a beauty panel to cover the amps after i hook it all up as well.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> i will be making a beauty panel to cover the amps after i hook it all up as well.


hopefully it don't look like you


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> and my favorite part;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahahh. pooh bear strikes again!
> 
> 
> 
> feedback?


Feedback......well, this photo probably made Diyma history.......does installing equipment always give you that kind of reaction - a quick sprint to the head......just noticed the 'Kicker' sticker - was this poor target at your favorite car audio hangout?........pooh bear......fitting


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

how does one become notorious for pooping?


----------



## rhannahs

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

very nice setup


----------



## bertholomey

rhannahs said:


> very nice setup


Wow, that is the 3rd subscribed thread that I have that you commented on...... very interesting.....3 long build threads in less than 15 minutes..... some kind of record.


----------



## tintbox

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice job Pooh.


----------



## mattyjman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

looks proper... great job so far!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I have completed more things today. Base is bolted down. Most of the wires are ready to hook u p to the amps. Had to build new speaker wire harnesses from my barrier strips to the amps, tech flx and such. Mounted the fused distro in the driver side cavity. Had to fab up a nice little holder for it. I has pics but i dont want to try and do all that on my droidx2... so pics before i do more in the mornin. I have errands and some other bs to do tomorrow. So i hope i can wrap it up in a few hours.

Thanks for watching!


----------



## Notloudenuf

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

This is looking really good req. Moar Powah!!!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

more pics soon. almost done wiring!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



























































































and thats where im at. 

unfortunatly i gotta run some errands. hopefully i can finish up in a few hours and actually turn it on!!!


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Awesome job, man! Bet you are looking forward to firing this beast up!

-T


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice work! Installing my ac condenser just for u today!


----------



## chefhow

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



bertholomey said:


> Wow, that is the 3rd subscribed thread that I have that you commented on...... very interesting.....3 long build threads in less than 15 minutes..... some kind of record.


Him and low2001gmc are all over bumping threads for post count.


----------



## ecbmxer

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I like the distro block mount! Clean. So the subs are staying as is in the IB config in the cargo cover right?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



ecbmxer said:


> I like the distro block mount! Clean. So the subs are staying as is in the IB config in the cargo cover right?


Yessir! Thank you =]I i am very satisfied with how tgat turned out. I can access everything easily now. I am happy i dont have to deal wih a false floor anymore!

Just have to go to the post office and run to the office to send a fax and.ill get back ome and wrap up te amp install! A few more in hours! Yay!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**










































































and thats all she wrote.

well. im exausted. i have to be up at like 7 am to drive an hour and a half to watkins glenn for a wine fest that ill be working at. its going to be a long weekend.


the scary part is - its the first time ive reinstalled an entire amplifier system like this, and it works on the first try. didnt forget to put the fuses back in. didnt forget the gains or settings. i remembered and hooked up everything perfectly the first time through. but i did take my time (all week lol).

the ONLY issue that i have that i noticed so far (other than certain mechanical noises caused by panels i will need to reinforce - that were there before) is the left subwoofer is not playing on the cd that i was using. i got a Y jack out, and hooked it up to the right subwoofer RCA, and magically both amps work in this configuration. so either the CENTER output (that can be set as a subwoofer) is faulty and not working properly, the RCA is busted (they are brand new and ive used 4 out of 6 of them before, so its possible).

i really dont know. i set the stuff in the H701 for center = L subwoofer. i made sure all the gains were properly set, i made sure the level \ crossover settings were proper, i made sure the speaker select said that the channel is on. maybe im missing something.

i know the amp works. i know the speaker runs are perfect. i know the coils read 2 ohms at the amps. hmmmmm.


frustrated. im going to get ready for the weekend wine fest


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> and thats all she wrote.
> 
> well. im exausted. i have to be up at like 7 am to drive an hour and a half to watkins glenn for a wine fest that ill be working at. its going to be a long weekend.
> 
> 
> the scary part is - its the first time ive reinstalled an entire amplifier system like this, and it works on the first try. didnt forget to put the fuses back in. didnt forget the gains or settings. i remembered and hooked up everything perfectly the first time through. but i did take my time (all week lol).
> 
> the ONLY issue that i have that i noticed so far (other than certain mechanical noises caused by panels i will need to reinforce - that were there before) is the left subwoofer is not playing on the cd that i was using. i got a Y jack out, and hooked it up to the right subwoofer RCA, and magically both amps work in this configuration. so either the CENTER output (that can be set as a subwoofer) is faulty and not working properly, the RCA is busted (they are brand new and ive used 4 out of 6 of them before, so its possible).
> 
> i really dont know. i set the stuff in the H701 for center = L subwoofer. i made sure all the gains were properly set, i made sure the level \ crossover settings were proper, i made sure the speaker select said that the channel is on. maybe im missing something.
> 
> i know the amp works. i know the speaker runs are perfect. i know the coils read 2 ohms at the amps. hmmmmm.
> 
> 
> frustrated. im going to get ready for the weekend wine fest


yeah, your forgetting to tell us if it was an improvement  how did it sound!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

im too frustrated for critical listening, plus i have a lot of **** to do tonight before tomorrow. and i smell horrible. so after i let some steam off i can get my cds and what not back together (i need a bigger binder...) and do some critical listening. but for now im too pissed at that one channel not working for whatever reason.

all i know now is that 5 of six speakers play - but everything is hooked up properly and all the speakers work. 

im really not interested in taking apart the amp rack and all the work i did today in order to see if that RCA is plugged in to the right spot.....


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> im too frustrated for critical listening, plus i have a lot of **** to do tonight before tomorrow. and i smell horrible. so after i let some steam off i can get my cds and what not back together (i need a bigger binder...) and do some critical listening. but for now im too pissed at that one channel not working for whatever reason.
> 
> all i know now is that 5 of six speakers play - but everything is hooked up properly and all the speakers work.
> 
> im really not interested in taking apart the amp rack and all the work i did today in order to see if that RCA is plugged in to the right spot.....


you have 6 speakers? i thought you ran 2 mids and 2 horns? you have 4 mids?:surprised:


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Two horns

Two mids

Two subs

Left sub is not playing because of rca or dsp issue. Ill make a system diagram soon =]


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

That is very frustrating, especially when you don't have the chance to fix it because of prior commitments...all you can do is think about it....I know this all to well with all the travel I do. It is hopefully something simple (the single summing input button on the amp?), and you will figure it out quickly once you get done this weekend.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ya j... its a pita and i did everything the way it needs to be. So i have no idea...


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

that is strange. why don't you just wire them together? or it wouldn't work out for the resistance if you wired them together?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



eviling said:


> that is strange. why don't you just wire them together? or it wouldn't work out for the resistance if you wired them together?


because i wanted to have independent left and right speaker separation all the way to the amplifiers.

so the left amplifier has one horn, one mid, and one sub. and the right has the same. this way gain adjustment is easier and its a simple setup as well. personally it makes more sense to do it this way - and my amplifiers are 1 ohm stable for each channel. it does not list the 1 ohm power rating anywhere, but it will do 320 x 4 @ 2 ohms, so im guessing more than 500wpc at 1 ohm. i can also bridge each channel at 2 ohms and get more than enough for the subwoofers.

i need to figure out why its not playing


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

wow, i'm really starting to understand the switch after hearing some systems in MD with these amps, they are ****ing steller. 

you're subs play left right? so you have right side lows and left side lows? that's interesting. perhaps i should go for the same thing with my setup when i go to a second GTI. but than i coudln't do a center could i?

i do plan on going IB like me and you descussed, i'm going to hang them from my rear deck and cut out a hole to help vent. i don't have a second one yet. but I plan on a second one eventually.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Alright ya'll... this is just after pooh's visit to that shop.... I'm sure what happened in there but....


----------



## bertholomey

Holy Cow! Is that a bidet? 

I bet Pooh could have all kinds of fun (and then entertaining stories) with that thing.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



bertholomey said:


> Holy CRAP! Is that a bidet?
> 
> I bet Pooh could have all kinds of fun (and then entertaining stories) with that thing.


nope.. high power toilet waiting to be installed....


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



eviling said:


> wow, i'm really starting to understand the switch after hearing some systems in MD with these amps, they are ****ing steller.
> 
> you're subs play left right? so you have right side lows and left side lows? that's interesting. perhaps i should go for the same thing with my setup when i go to a second GTI. but than i coudln't do a center could i?
> 
> i do plan on going IB like me and you descussed, i'm going to hang them from my rear deck and cut out a hole to help vent. i don't have a second one yet. but I plan on a second one eventually.


Discussed ... lol.

You dont want a hole to vent. Gotta seal the trunk as best you can from.the cabin. Does not have to be perfect. Just mostly sealed. The better sealed you get the more spl can be generated (usually). Just cut out enough metal so tbe subs will fit. Or build down so the subs dont hit the metal and fire them thru the 6x9 holes. Basically make some baffles that mount to the rear deck where the 6x9s fire thru and build a box that the subs can mount to the baffles you made. Not anything big. Just enough so the excursion of the sub wont hit anything. 

Its hard to explain. Just gotta use yor imagination =]


----------



## ecbmxer

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Nice. That's the downside to tucking amps up nice and neat like that, no easy access. Mine are like that under the front seats. As long as everything is hooked up right, great. But if I forgot a wire or got RCAs backward, gotta remove the seats. PITA, haha. I think you're still better off with your arrangement. If I could still fold down my rear seats and put bikes through, I would totally think about trying a similar IB thing in my hatchback. But there's no way.


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Not hard at all thats exactly what imd oing except instead of a baffle I was planning on a platform right below that rear deck . And cut the metal out to get as little resistance as possible porting into the cabin.

but you did give me an idea. Their is no reason not to mount each in their own mini box. That way I don't have to rip it apart to add a sub later I can just seal up the one side and build the box later it when I can get ahold of a second gti


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



eviling said:


> Not hard ay all thats exactly wgay imdoing except instead of a baffle iI was planning on a platform thaasians that rear deck . And cut the metal oit to get as much resistance as possible from the front of the fonger to thee cabin.
> 
> B youut did give me an idea. Their is no reason not to mount each in their own mini box. That way I don't have to treat it apart to add a sub later I can just seal up the one side and build the vox fire it when I can get ahold of a second gti


edited with links from google searches for clarity.


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> edited with links from google searches for clarity.


Wow. It's like an entirely new language. Enlightening.


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> edited with links from google searches for clarity.


fixed. sorry, phone, and it was very hot at work and i was some what busy, really shoudn't of been on the phone in the first place


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol, its okay! just was funny


----------



## mattyjman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

that was hella funny req.. nice one!


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

the link to B was rather uhm...yeah. but this was my faverate.


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Holy thread off track. 

Did you setup the H701 to use the center/sub as a sub out? By default it wont use the center out as a sub.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yes, i have stated this earlier in the thread ;(


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

did you happen to Look at the diagram to check everything?


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



eviling said:


> hmm, thuoght of the day - i had a thought about the boxes...they will them selves have no sag, but how can I structure up the rear deck, it's only 1\8" steal. it has bends and such to give it strength but a 50 lb sub, and even a second one down the line, what do you think? you hung those two max's i bet they had some heft to em, i think their about as heavy as the GTI's


Could start your own thread?


----------



## mattyjman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

^please.


----------



## 1edgekilla

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

req what mids are you running with you're horns?


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Pretty sure they are ID CX62's or something to that effect.


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



BowDown said:


> Pretty sure they are ID CX62's or something to that effect.


Pretty sure your wrong..... 


audible physics hence him being part of the team.


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



turbo5upra said:


> Pretty sure your wrong.....
> 
> 
> audible physics hence him being part of the team.


Ah, didn't know they made speakers. Thought they were novelty ashtrays. :laugh:


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lolz.


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



BowDown said:


> Ah, didn't know they made speakers. Thought they were novelty ashtrays. :laugh:


Ouch....now that there was just plain ugly....


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



bertholomey said:


> Ouch....now that there was just plain ugly....


:laugh: I Kid, I Kid...


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I figured you were just poking Andy a bit


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Speaking of.. where the hell has he been?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

in new orleans partying.


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> in new orleans partying.


Sweet! Fly down?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yep. just got back last night. got a new TV and moving into a new apartment on the first. busy busy!


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

if ya need a hand just ask.... bowdown knows they work


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Lol. Will do. Got the tv in the mail and drove to the ups store and sent it back for a refund. Bough it for like 630 shipped in a gurellia deal on newegg because it was a 42 active backligh led lcd 1080p doodad and then read the reviews the day i got it and they said it powers off and on randomly and it is basically a horrid set. So isent it back on their dime lol. Cool part is on the rma recipt it said regular price of 799 and not the discount price so i may make money with this deal lol. Off to search for a better tv deal!


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



turbo5upra said:


> if ya need a hand just ask.... bowdown knows they work


Sometimes nature is just very generous. Got a huge member, need huge hands.


----------



## ocblaze

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey man I got some advice for tv searching. Go to your local Best Buy and ask if they have any return tv's for sale. They usually are the floor models and such. The return tv's still carry their full warranty but are required to be discounted a certain amount even on top of a sale price  I was able to walk out with a return unit for 35% off retail with a 6 year full replacement warranty!!!!


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## .:Rafael

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Your's it's the first thread i reply..

Im new in the forum and it's funny, your belle amps thread on the classifieds section bringed me here, so after reading all of the 16 pages all i can say great effort on the GTI ! also when i first saw the photo of the car i thought "man that front bumper has to go" and it did ! :surprised: 

Another thing that makes me curious are the front horns wonder how they sound in a car, only place i've seen them are on home audio set ups.

But i don't remember you posting anything about any upgrade on the electrical, besides of the Kinetik rack you made. Pics would be great if you did change anything.

I also have a Golf only that it's a 4dr, so you gave me a lot of ideas for my setup 

Greetings from Guanajuato, Mx.


----------



## bginvestor

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

I just got done reading through the whole thread.. Did you fix the bad channel? 

This reminds me of movies that I have watched w/ bad endings..:worried:


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

well i would say it is not a bad channel, i know the amplifier works because swapping the H701 output RCA to the other amp makes the subwoofer play like normal. so it is either a bad RCA interconnect, or it is a bad channel on the H701 (i doubt this). but no, i have not had time to fool around with it. i have commitments in my life other than car stereo stuff that are more important than a hobby.

i am in college with 17 credit hours (it started 22AUG2011) and i have zero time but on the weekends. i have not had the subwoofers in the car since i took them out to move into my new apartment in the beginning of august!! i have not re-tuned the system either.

i did buy some L-PADS to attenuate the horn loaded compression drivers so that my midbass can keep up with them - but i have not had time to install them yet!

Rafael, thank you for being interested in my build log! i am happy that you enjoy the work i have done. The things i did for my electrical were nothing major. I have 0awg power and ground wires. the 0awg ground wire is on the driver side above where the monsoon amplifier is mounted behind the C-pillar on a stock grounding point to the unibody of the car. the power wire travels through the firewall to the battery in the engine compartment. 4awg wires go from distribution blocks to each amplifier and the H701. the remote turn on wire is taken from the cars stock power distribution panel above the clutch\break area. there is a couple of binding posts labeld 75X and 30. one is a key-sense 12v+, and the other is a constant 12v+. i used those for my headunit 12v+\turn on and remote turn on wire for the amplifiers. i built a little fuse panel for them to go into so that every +12v wire is fused wherever it gets power. other than that, i didnt change anything but the battery and i dont have any power problems, i think when i was cranking the volume more than i could handle the lights would barely dim - so its a non-issue for me.

im sorry for the lack updates. i have to be tight with my money because i am on unemployment right now, and rent is half of my paycheck. plus most of my time is devoted to school and my wife, so i have little time to work on the car. not to mention all my tools are at my parents house 30 minutes away from my new apartment along with the garage that i have access to work in. so im going to have to schedule time to do anything. i have to fix some rattles in the new door panels i have because i swapped to black door panels instead of grey\black after i had modded the grey\black ones with tons of deadener. some of the trim in the car has peeling cloth so i need to re-wrap that with new cloth... thats going to be a joy. i have not even washed the car since i moved in.

im sorry guys. things just are not panning out for the project at this point in time


----------



## BowDown

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hey man. Hobbies are hobbies.. they tend to get pushed down the priority tree. Good luck in your classes.


----------



## AdamTaylor

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

do you need a special rivet gun to use the rivet-nuts?


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

yes, as seen in this picture it has a threadded tip to it. the nutsert goes into the hole, the tip of the rivet gun threads into the nutsert, then you crimp it in place and then unthread the tool.


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> well i would say it is not a bad channel, i know the amplifier works because swapping the H701 output RCA to the other amp makes the subwoofer play like normal. so it is either a bad RCA interconnect, or it is a bad channel on the H701 (i doubt this). but no, i have not had time to fool around with it. i have commitments in my life other than car stereo stuff that are more important than a hobby.
> 
> i am in college with 17 credit hours (it started 22AUG2011) and i have zero time but on the weekends. i have not had the subwoofers in the car since i took them out to move into my new apartment in the beginning of august!! i have not re-tuned the system either.
> 
> i did buy some L-PADS to attenuate the horn loaded compression drivers so that my midbass can keep up with them - but i have not had time to install them yet!
> 
> Rafael, thank you for being interested in my build log! i am happy that you enjoy the work i have done. The things i did for my electrical were nothing major. I have 0awg power and ground wires. the 0awg ground wire is on the driver side above where the monsoon amplifier is mounted behind the C-pillar on a stock grounding point to the unibody of the car. the power wire travels through the firewall to the battery in the engine compartment. 4awg wires go from distribution blocks to each amplifier and the H701. the remote turn on wire is taken from the cars stock power distribution panel above the clutch\break area. there is a couple of binding posts labeld 75X and 30. one is a key-sense 12v+, and the other is a constant 12v+. i used those for my headunit 12v+\turn on and remote turn on wire for the amplifiers. i built a little fuse panel for them to go into so that every +12v wire is fused wherever it gets power. other than that, i didnt change anything but the battery and i dont have any power problems, i think when i was cranking the volume more than i could handle the lights would barely dim - so its a non-issue for me.
> 
> im sorry for the lack updates. i have to be tight with my money because i am on unemployment right now, and rent is half of my paycheck. plus most of my time is devoted to school and my wife, so i have little time to work on the car. not to mention all my tools are at my parents house 30 minutes away from my new apartment along with the garage that i have access to work in. so im going to have to schedule time to do anything. i have to fix some rattles in the new door panels i have because i swapped to black door panels instead of grey\black after i had modded the grey\black ones with tons of deadener. some of the trim in the car has peeling cloth so i need to re-wrap that with new cloth... thats going to be a joy. i have not even washed the car since i moved in.
> 
> im sorry guys. things just are not panning out for the project at this point in time


ya gonna make it to PA state finals in allentown? doesnt sound like it  sorry to hear that. but hey at least you don't have a kid, now that would really push ya to the wall  things can always be harder. 

i'm ion the same boat, I'm in college, work 40-50 hours a week. i bought material to work on my car weeks ago, a month and a half easy, i have two full sheets of MDF sitting in my shed, a barrowed table saw, 900$ in drivers, 400$ in amps and misc deadening material just sitting around waiting to all be worked on. ive been so ****ing busy, last weekend would of been my least buisiest weekend had i not spent it in NJ for a little vacation, this weekend i worked, im finily getting to work on my system today, about to do that in fact, but really only gonna get some deadening done, and if i get real ampitiouse i'll get started on the amp rack and board for my SUB to run IB.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

i know there has not been updates to this in a while. i was trying some new stuff and attempting to see the effects of controlled dispersion, and lots of tuning.

compiled with the transition out of the navy and full time college with no garage its been tough. luckily the guys; steve and tom, at syracuse customs welcomed me as a fellow sound quality guy from the forum and they have graciously allowed me to use some of their floor space this winter when things were not so busy and i have been able to make progress.

at this juncture, i have a pair of Exodus Anarchy 6.5" drivers playing from [email protected]\oct to [email protected]\oct mating with a pair of Vifa XT25SC90-04 tweeters deep in the sail panels. so the speakers are back to stock locations after many iterations (i think 8 different door speaker installs from flush mount speakers to IDQ8's in door pods on axis). The horns are no more, they just do not work in the GTi. The large center console coupled with the bump in the stereo cluster and uneven lower dash on the left\right makes it very hard to not modify the dash and drive safely. i had lots of trouble keeping the image above the dash - i blame the environment and dash shape because it was not as difficult in my saturn. the XT25 has a good off axis rolloff to control some of those reflections, and the stage width is close to the outboard boundaries of the car with a nice stable center image.

so stock locations turned out to work well all along lol.

i used 1.5lbs of Duct Seal from Lowes to mass load the speaker pod that already weighed a solid 2lbs from fiberglass\wood\filler. the great thing about this stuff is that id stays malleable in very cold temperatures, and will not melt at high temperatures like clay. I worked on an aircraft carrier, and all the transitions between bulkheads where cables went through they installed a bunch of this stuff over 40 years old, and it sill has some nice elasticity. so it should last quite a while. 



































































at this point it puts me in a nice low class to compete in, and i dont have any crazy door panels or weird stuff. i just gotta take my right door panel off again and pull a little of the duct seal out from under the speaker basket because its barely touching the door panel at high excursion because i put too thick of a layer under there hehe. and maybe a little vibration dampening on the door panel - there is a little bit of resonance. other than that things are going very well!


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Sounds pretty good ATM.


----------



## mattyjman

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

good to see you are still in the game...


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

thanks guys


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

why'd you take the wave guide off the vifa's, i know you know better


----------



## bertholomey

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

good to see you back poo - hope to hear the new system soon.


----------



## minibox

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Hope you pay us a visit in nc sometime. Always look forward to updates on the gti.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

its not a waveguide, its really just a mounting flange. at best, it could be a diffraction lens, its certainly not a horn by any means. i thought you knew more...


and guys, if things go certain ways, i might be back down that way soon...


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> at this juncture, i have a pair of Exodus Anarchy 6.5" drivers playing from [email protected]\oct to [email protected]\oct mating with a pair of Vifa XT25SC90-04 tweeters deep in the sail panels. so the speakers are back to stock locations after many iterations (i think 8 different door speaker installs from flush mount speakers to IDQ8's in door pods on axis). The horns are no more, they just do not work in the GTi. The large center console coupled with the bump in the stereo cluster and uneven lower dash on the left\right makes it very hard to not modify the dash and drive safely. i had lots of trouble keeping the image above the dash - i blame the environment and dash shape because it was not as difficult in my saturn.


GTI and VW in general are actually very good horn cars.I have a very good friend who has great success with both Mini and full size in the same car and the previous version and one after. Larger center console was less of an issue--my BMW has a big console and works perfectly fine
Much of the problem was the gaps and transitions in the install coupled with how low they were installed to get symmetry which was more of a cosmetic issue than functional issue.


----------



## thehatedguy

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Ewing did place 5th in the first ISQC back in what 2003? He beat a bunch of BIG names. Simple setup- lage body horns and IDQ6s in the doors...ID Max in the back.


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



thehatedguy said:


> Ewing did place 5th in the first ISQC back in what 2003? He beat a bunch of BIG names. Simple setup- lage body horns and IDQ6s in the doors...ID Max in the back.


and he always got at least top 5 in his Class which was a very tough class at Finals every year he competed


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

well i suck then i guess 

i just kept having bad luck with them.

maybe im just not good enough.


----------



## eviling

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> its not a waveguide, its really just a mounting flange. at best, it could be a diffraction lens, its certainly not a horn by any means. i thought you knew more...
> 
> 
> and guys, if things go certain ways, i might be back down that way soon...


 <_< blah


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

lol no hard feelings


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so just to put it here, this is where I am at now.

a little video walk through from the thread here;
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...127394-lets-hear-your-car-who-wants-play.html






I also have a car pc in the works at the moment, thread here;
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-pc-forum/127629-first-foray-into-carpc-realm.html


























and thats where i am at now


----------



## Noobdelux

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

looks good man..


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

so i just wrote a huge post, and i lost it because of the browser at work freezing or some crap. im kind of irritated at it.

a little PC update. i got my carPC running the way i want it to, ignition hybernation and all that. it boots up between 11 and 12 seconds when music starts. im real happy with that, considering the alpine DVA-9861 and PXA-H701 combo boot up in around 9 and 10 seconds. its cold boot time is about 38 seconds too, so thats not horrible either. i had to nix the windows tiny7 because the software for the GUI i want to use (centrafuse) does not work with the hacked version of windows, and i couldnt get the hybernate mode to work the way its supposed to.





[/QUOTE]



















a little update with the speaker install. i was not terribly happy with the transition between the exodus anarchy midbass and the vifa xt25 tweeter, so i decided to look through midranges that could fit behind my A pillar. i wanted 200hz and up, and i wanted 2~3 inches max. after reading all the threads about kicks vs pillars, it that didnt seem like pillars were going to happen the way i wanted them - so i settled on kickpanels so i could hide the drivers, keep path length difference to a minimum, and stuff the speakers in the corner to help reduce reflections.

with that in mind, i ended up buying the FAITAL PRO 4FE30.





































i then tested them in the kickpanels, off axis, on axis, aimed at the center and yada yada. i dont have any crazy testing equipment like some of the guys here, so with the advice from my fellow team DIYma members, i am going to put them in the corners aimed at the opposite listening position, centered under the sunroof. at the moment, they are higher up then they will be once i am done, i just had to drive to work so i put them in a spot that i could have the carpet out of the way of the pedals.



















i have plenty of room under the carpet, so today i plan on doing what i can to get them in there. my plan to have them be as invisible as possible unless you are really looking for them.

and i had to make a new jumper wire to go from my speaker wire distrobution area to the amplifier too.










ill let you all know how it goes


----------



## goodstuff

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Did you ever figure out if it was an rca issue on the channel you couldn't get working?


----------



## derickveliz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



req said:


> so i settled on kickpanels so i could hide the drivers, keep path length difference to a minimum, and stuff the speakers in the corner to help reduce reflections.
> 
> i then tested them in the kickpanels, off axis, on axis, aimed at the center and yada yada. i dont have any crazy testing equipment like some of the guys here, so with the advice from my fellow team DIYma members, i am going to put them in the corners aimed at the opposite listening position, centered under the sunroof. at the moment, they are higher up then they will be once i am done, i just had to drive to work so i put them in a spot that i could have the carpet out of the way of the pedals.


*SQ advice... as far forward as possible, as far apart from each other (each mid). And looking at each other, right speaker off-axis, left speaker less off-axis but not much . It works! *

Use the a-frame to vent your speakers out, let them breath!


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



derickveliz said:


> *SQ advice... as far forward as possible, as far apart from each other (each mid). And looking at each other, right speaker off-axis, left speaker less off-axis but not much . It works! *
> 
> Use the a-frame to vent your speakers out, let them breath!


Normally Id completely agree with what you suggested, but He cant vent the speakers externally bc of the MECA Class he is competing.


----------



## derickveliz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Mic10is said:


> Normally Id completely agree with what you suggested, but He cant vent the speakers externally bc of the MECA Class he is competing.


I'm sorry to be naive and/or lack of knowledge, but I enjoy learning some thing new every day. (O:

.


----------



## Mic10is

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



derickveliz said:


> I'm sorry to be naive and/or lack of knowledge, but I enjoy learning some thing new every day. (O:
> 
> .


nothing naive or anything of the sort--I was just clearing up that he cant go that route , at least at this time, bc of the limitations of his Class.
classes are based on modifications to the vehicle for the system.
externally venting speakers and cutting sheet metal to do so, puts you in Modex, which is a VERY stacked class.

If he did not have these limitations, believe me, I'd have put his car under the knife myself or enthusiastically encouraged him to do it himself.


----------



## derickveliz

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



Mic10is said:


> nothing naive or anything of the sort--I was just clearing up that he cant go that route , at least at this time, bc of the limitations of his Class.
> classes are based on modifications to the vehicle for the system.
> externally venting speakers and cutting sheet metal to do so, puts you in Modex, which is a VERY stacked class.
> 
> If he did not have these limitations, believe me, I'd have put his car under the knife myself or enthusiastically encouraged him to do it himself.



No problem, I'm cool.

That's why I build my system for me, the way I like it and don't think about rules in competitions, jeje

I guess it's a commuter and sounds good, I'm happy. 

.


----------



## req

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

this work computer browser froze up again 

thanks for the dialogue guys! at this point in time i have a sort of mix of the two you were talking about.

after some team chatting last night (thanks mic, and todd), i was able to make some progress. i was playing with the drivers from 4:30pm until around 10pm. I decided that t-shirts were not good enough at absorbing the backwave and i needed a temporary enclosure. so i got some left over 1\4" foamcore board. you know that stuff you used to make presentations in school? i cut a piece that was a bit bigger than i thought i needed, sliced a hole in it for the speaker and dropped the speaker in place and used actual coarse thread screws to hold it in place. it worked quite well! then i used painters tape to seal the speaker to the baffle because it was not a perfect hole haha.

then i dropped the whole board in place and started shimmying it to the angle i wanted and trimmed the edges to contour the floorpan\doorjamb\firewall as needed. once it was in place and i was satisfied with it, i used the tape to seal the whole thing to the car. there are actually a few holes in the doorjamb side that the pods fire into, so it should give them a bit of room to breathe.

so this is what ive got now;


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

not so sure it blends well with the original look of the car- you might be moved to modex....


----------



## highly

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

It'll be fine. Spray it with some of that bald spot hair paint and it will blend right in to the bald spots in the carpet. All VWs have the bald spots in the carpet, so they could be considered 'factory'. 

At least it isn't a tweeter in the dash. I hear those put you in like Extreme or something! Unless it's Tuesday or the sunroof shade is removable. Then it's Stock. Unless your car is blue, in which case...


----------



## Notloudenuf

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**

Blue painters tape is SQ and gray/black duct tape is SPL right?


----------



## turbo5upra

*re: 2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *updated**



highly said:


> It'll be fine. Spray it with some of that bald spot hair paint and it will blend right in to the bald spots in the carpet. All VWs have the bald spots in the carpet, so they could be considered 'factory'.
> 
> At least it isn't a tweeter in the dash. I hear those put you in like Extreme or something! Unless it's Tuesday or the sunroof shade is removable. Then it's Stock. Unless your car is blue, in which case...


dang it... I need to send an email to confirm this. Tuesday sounds incorrect. also I thought there was a clause pertaining to a half finished pitcher of beer.


----------



## eviling

no more horns? your car was my fav car i heard all last season. idk why, i just liked the way it sounded, with the IDmax's and them horns. and your low end just played so smooth. 

your using centrafuse i see, 4.0 i assume than? I dont suggest the GPS, i purchased it since it was only yada yada more but meh, the interface isnt as good as a 3rd party garmin application. also keep in mind support might be limited, i found the HD radio unit i got (from mp3car.com) doesn't have official drivers supported by centrafuse but i believe mp3car.com did send me a link to a forum topic that had some drivers for it if you happen to have that same unit  btw i didnt read all your updates, what kind of DSP you using? im just curiouse ^_^ rumor has it the RF .3 is "shipping in june" but who knows -_- i think my fav unit ive comopared far as carputer compatablity was the helix units because you can tie pot's to them and use it as a master volume so you can use optic


----------



## req

eviling said:


> no more horns? your car was my fav car i heard all last season. idk why, i just liked the way it sounded, with the IDmax's and them horns. and your low end just played so smooth.


thanks, but after 7 years i wanted to try new things.



> your using centrafuse i see, 4.0 i assume than? I dont suggest the GPS, i purchased it since it was only yada yada more but meh, the interface isnt as good as a 3rd party garmin application.


my google nav on my phone is where the GPS will be. i will only be using the carPC for media transport and storage. i have a neat dock for my phone so i dont have to clutter my carpc with that junk.



> also keep in mind support might be limited, i found the HD radio unit i got (from mp3car.com) doesn't have official drivers supported by centrafuse but i believe mp3car.com did send me a link to a forum topic that had some drivers for it if you happen to have that same unit


if i use radio, its going to be [insert streaming music app here], 3G from my phone via easyteather to the carPC = free internet in car.



> btw i didnt read all your updates, what kind of DSP you using?


helix p-dsp until the arc ps8 comes out.



> im just *curiouse *


im _curious_ how these words get past your spell check 



> ^_^ rumor has it the RF .3 is "shipping in june" but who knows -_- i think my fav unit ive comopared far as carputer compatablity was the helix units because you can tie pot's to them and use it as a master volume so you can use optic


thats what im doing with the helix...


----------



## eviling

req said:


> im _curious_ how these words get past your spell check
> 
> 
> .


I don't know. it's one of my words i mess up allot. i'm just honestly a horrible speller to begin with but I sometimes type faster than i think  lets not get to involved into that thought tehe  

but yeah, idk why you wanna go helix to the arc audio unit, just cause it samples at the highest rate? i mean do you really think you'll hear that. idk im still torn on processors really, part of me just wants to drop an ms-8 tweak a few bits and let it tune it again haha another wants me to use a h800 or .3 and auto tune and tweak it from their, or do it all on my own with the helix. choices choices choices XD i suppose i have plenty of time till i get some moneys


----------



## req

eviling said:


> allot
> thought


supposed to be _a lot, or alot_. also, i believe you meant _though_, not thought.



eviling said:


> but yeah, idk why you wanna go helix to the arc audio unit, just cause it samples at the highest rate?


i got the pdsp for free (it was a trade) and it will be going in the wifes car when the ps8 comes out. remember, the ps8 does way more than have a higher sample rate.



eviling said:


> their


supposed to use, _there_.

you do know when the word has a squiggly red line under it, that its spelled wrong, and all you have to do is right click it... right?


----------



## turbo5upra




----------



## benny

req said:


> supposed to be _a lot, or alot_.



Always "a lot", "alot" isn't a word.


----------



## eviling

-_- *walks away*


----------



## req

benny said:


> Always "a lot", "alot" isn't a word.


touché!


----------



## turbo5upra

was that thanks alot or a lot?  I did note the red line under alot.


----------



## KyleMDunn

turbo5upra said:


>


Stay googling my friends.


----------



## req

ayeloot?


----------



## strakele

Nice build Andy. Thanks for the demo on Saturday. I like the impact and dynamics you get from the Anarchy midbass and pro audio midrange. I had always wanted to hear a pair of IDMax's IB... and they did not disappoint.

Look forward to hearing it again with the processing changes.


----------



## req

yes sir!! 

i got my screen in the mail too! just getting some pelimenary testing done, everything is looking good. most of the parts are in for everything. just getting my copy of diablo III today in the mail, and then i leave for cancun mexio at 0500 tomorrow!

so next week starts the breakdown!


----------



## dresselbrew

Just wanted to thank you for the tips on tuning last Saturday. Between you and Jason I think I have a good idea of what I need to do now. But after talking to Drake, I've been thinking about going down the carputer road. I can't wait to see where you go with that.


----------



## quickaudi07

You are nuts, I love the car and the install that you did, I had VR6 version and it was 04...

But what you are doing to your little golf is nuts!


----------



## req

hah thanks guys! i hope your tuning takes you in the right direction!

hopefully i will have some motivation to get this computer thing installed! i was about to tear the car down and do some stuff - but i realized i still did not have a few super important parts - like the volume knob for the P-DSP or the screws for the CD-Rom!

i hope helix\sony get back to me =\

this car pc is starting to burn a hole on my desk!


----------



## quickaudi07

HAHAH car pc, i was thinking of doing the same thing long time ago, 
But i have no problem with volume controller, because of H800 & C800 controller 

I might do that down the line we will see, at this moment, I'm happy with Kenwood DNX9990HD...

I'm wondering what other crazy things are you going to do with your GTI.
Thanks for the PM as well....


----------



## req

the problem i have with the 800 series, is that alpine did not listen to anyone - and they just released a crappier version of the same processor they already had.

i dont know why. but whats the point? there are a ton of things people want - and alpine did nothing in regards to what people were asking for besides release a processor - the same one they had before ala h700\701.

bikinpunk did a review on his h800. those are my feelings


----------



## quickaudi07

I'm not a pro @ this and not trying to jack up your thread and your build page.
But It really does a good job, and it sounds really good to my ears. Everyone has different ears and different hearing.

I really like it and i have no complains so far...


----------



## req

So there have been many setbacks with tiny parts, particularly the fasteners to hold my slot load CDRom in. it took Sony weeks to get back to me, but if anyone needs to know - they are M2 size with 1.6mm of depth allowable inside the chassis. I ended up sourcing them from a busted CDRom from a desktop PC that was lying around. i got lucky and there were 4 of them inside the CDRom.

The other part is the P-DSP connector. Helix finally got back to me (thanks facebook  ) and they said they don’t stock the connector, even though they use it. So I don’t know how that works. It turns out its a part on digykey - but unless you have a business account you can’t order them anyway. Luckily Don (6speedcoupe) is helping me out here, hopefully I will hear back from him this week - and then I could actually build the analog volume control so I can use all this crap.

Since I finally got the screws and some ABS from partsexpress, I decided it was time to mount the CDRom to the display. I plan on building a bezel out of more of the ABS that will mount in front of the CDRom, and my phone dock will be above the CDRom just like it is now... but I will have to be a little more creative in order for it to fit properly.

Basically I heated a sheet of ABS with a heat gun and bent it so that it made a shelf that mounts to the double din frame that the LCD is mounted in. this gives the CDRom a nice firm area to mount to, hopefully I will not get any skipping 

It’s going to be nice having a tiny slot for this; hopefully I can get the button to look nice as well. Here are some pictures!


























you have to remember to add the thickness of the material for the bend radius or it will never fit right! thats why there are two sets of lines!


























notice i have a solid clamp and a wood block to distribute the pressure along the whole edge. i then used another piece of wood after it heated up and was drooping at about a 45* angle to push it to a 90* angle and waited for it to set.


















[more in next post]


----------



## req

after i got that to fit, i trimmed a few sections out because there were some circuit boards in the way, and i got a nice flush fit!


















then i went about mounting the chassis that will hold the cdrom to the top of the shelf that i made with some countersunk bolts and nuts. everything has lock washers on, and when its ready i will use some threadlock


























you can see here that the facia of the CDRom is 1\8 inch set back from the bezel of the LCD. this is because im going to fabricate a bezel for the top area that will have the CDRom slot cut, a button to eject, and my cell phone dock (3G tethering for internets)


















and thats where im at


----------



## Noobdelux

just wicked


----------



## req

built the bezel for the cdrom. still need to cut out the switch area and mount the volume knobs on the far left\right, but i think it turned out OK. i think that i should do it over because the slot is a bit wonky. that part was not easy!

*ignore the scuff marks from sandpaper and such. i will be filling and painting.*


----------



## mires

Looking good man. I'm trying to get back into a GTI now so I've really enjoyed your build. Keep up the good work!


----------



## bbfoto

Awesome thread. Love GTIs. Looking forward to see how you implement the CarPC. Is that LCD panel viewable in direct sunlight?


----------



## tintbox

Looks good so far. I think i'm might be ready to make the jump.


----------



## req

well mike, you will be able to see it in manasses for that VA show right? im assuming you will be there since the show is basically in your back yard


----------



## kwhitelaw

deets on this manassas show? is it at safe n sound?


----------



## req

details can be found here;


8/4/2012 NOVA Summer Slam Manassas VA
Electronic Plus
8389 Centreville Road, 20111
James Toombs 703-509-5263

Events


good progress news, i bought a new phone (droid 4) and it should be here this week or early next. i got a new dock that i will be attaching to the facia of the touchscreen\cdrom so its all one piece and i will be using a technique i came up with to fuse the plastic together utilizing plastic welding.

basically i dissolved ABS plastic in 100% acetone and i will be using it like bondo to fill gaps and chemically bond the pieces together! pics when the parts come in ^_^


----------



## req

i proceeded to use my plastic welding technique today.

*USE A GLASS JAR WITH A SEAL-ABLE TOP! USE IN A VENTILATED AREA!*

basically i dissolved a bunch of small pieces of ABS plastic in 100% acetone (nail polish remover without any fragrance or fillers) and let it sit for a few days. now i have a sort of soupy mix at the top, and a jelly at the bottom, when it hardens (the acetone evaporates), it is basically the same substance as the original ABS. the trick here is to use it as a gap filler and to get it nice and thick. the other thing is, when it comes in contact with other solid ABS surfaces, it dissolves itself into the solid piece, creating a chemical bond rather than a mechanical bond (glue\staples\nails\screws\etc).










parts express ABS sheet














































so after this hardens, i will take the display out of there, then i will fuse the two pieces together along the front, and attach my cell phone dock. after that is all together, i will put it in the dash, and use it just like bondo to fill the gaps around the bezel to make a nice perfect fit.


----------



## Mic10is

Neat Idea

simpler method
http://www.permatex.com/products/au.../Permatex_PermaPoxy_5_Minute_Plastic_Weld.htm

TPO, TEO & PP Plastic Welding Kit

Steinel Heat Gun - How To Plastic Weld - Plastic Welding Tool


----------



## chefhow

Nice work Pooh, cant wait to see this finished.


----------



## req

honestly i have had back luck with the heat welding method. i just used what we had in the house to do this acetone method. the cool thing is that the thin liquid seeps into the cracks and melts the seam together with just using a Q tip, and the thicker stuff fills gaps REAL well!

i think ill stick with this method because its so super easy and you can get the acetone at target for only a few bucks!

im going to take the LCD parts out of the chassis now that its all glued, and then im going to bond the rest together and when the car dock comes in i need to get that affixed as well.


----------



## req

honestly i have had back luck with the heat welding method. i just used what we had in the house to do this acetone method. the cool thing is that the thin liquid seeps into the cracks and melts the seam together with just using a Q tip, and the thicker stuff fills gaps REAL well!

i think ill stick with this method because its so super easy and you can get the acetone at target for only a few bucks!

im going to take the LCD parts out of the chassis now that its all glued, and then im going to bond the rest together and when the car dock comes in i need to get that affixed as well.


----------



## tintbox

I heard ya the first time. Looking good so far. Hope to see ya all soon.


----------



## req

Lol oops sorry double post mic.


----------



## quickaudi07

req said:


> Lol oops sorry double post mic.


Np just extra post to your thread..... looking good 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2


----------



## $rEe

Very good work


----------



## req

thank you sir!

just wanted to throw this in - one more step towards completion. the mother-in-law is still at my house (leaving tomorrow i think) and i have a show this sunday, after that show i will be taking it all out.

as i stand, i am in the process of aquiring a new center dash radio cage, i have about 4 or 5 leads, i want to spend like $20 on this thing, there is one on ebay for 50, i offered him 30, and he countered with 45 -_-

anyway, i got my new phone and the dock that goes with it. ill have more pictures to come, but its a very neat design. i will have to cut it up pretty bad though!

this picture is kind of out of context, the dock will actually be more 'in front' of the headunit than flush with it, but you get the idea.










ill have more for you guys later!


----------



## req

so i went to the pottsville, pa show this past weekend, about half of team DIYMA was there- mic10is, turbo5supra, tintbox, chefhow, and myself. the show was a great success with what looked to be like over 50 cars about half and half split SPL and SQ.

i ended up being the only one in my class, so i got a non-contended 1st place 2x 5 points. so i am at 20 points for the season, needing 40 points to be invited to finals.

i have three more shows that i plan on going to;

8/05/2012 - NOVA Summer Slam - Manassas VA 
8/26/2012 - Beltway Sound Challenge II - Cockeysville MD 
9/16/2012 - PANYNJMD Regional Soundfest - Pottsville PA 

i should have the carPC in and working for all three shows.

i got the alpine RUX-C701 and alpine DVA-9861 removed from the car yesterday, and i got most of the dash and the center console out too. it turns out there is not enough room in the center console for the carPC so it will be going behind the glove box.

here are some pics, i was out on norfolk base the other day, and i took a few cool pics of some ships, figured you would all be intersted. 



































CVN77








5 Inch gun








22MM automatic FLIR remote control


----------



## req

so i got some more stuff done today.

im mounting my phone navigation dock on top of the CDRom, so i built the LCD bezel out about 3\4 of an inch to provide a more sturdy mounting for the dock. i cut two rectangleish shapes and using the dremel i cut fillets in the back side of the edge so each side was knife-edge shape to give me a nice surface to use the plastic welding methods.

i bought some PVC\ABS adhesive at a home improvement store that had Methyl Ethyl Keytone and acetone in there along with some dissolved plastics for a medium body thickness, i used this to "glue" the pieces on and it melts plastic real well haha.



















then i used my dissolved ABS mix to "bodyfill" and build up any areas that needed it. i also have some lightweight high quality flexible body filler that i will use to finish the surface at the end, and then i am going to use black rubberized spray paint (plastidip) as a final coat.

here are some pictures 


























i am waiting for it to set right now, the ABS mixture stays soft for a while if it is real thick layers, but after a day or so the acetone fully evaporates out and you are left with a nice hard plastic that you can sand and file away. just make sure you scour the surface with some sandpaper first to help acetone dissolve some of the surface you are bonding.


----------



## captainobvious

Looking great so far bud. I'm anxious to check this setup out when you get it nailed down. I'm hoping to make it out for the Manassas show myself...we'll have to see how that goes. I got word back from MiniDSP that they are going to RMA me out a replacement for the bad dsp so I can hopefully get back on track with getting this thing tuned up. I may even have another surprise going in there but I'll have to see about what I can source first.


----------



## quickaudi07

holy ****, will you get that done already ! lol
Iv been waiting on finished build for month's now 

Looks great so far.. keep up the good work, you are almost done! the word is "almost"


----------



## req

thanks for the words guys  i look forward to seeing you at the show, tintbox's gree xB should be ready to listen to at that show too - so i highly suggest you show up!! 

i have a little less than 3 weeks to get this running - so i will be highly focused so i can show it at the manassas show.

i did a bunch of sanding and filling last night only using plastic as a filler. its a bit harder to sand than rage gold... i should be working with the lightweight filler after this last bit of plastic for a finish sand, and i will be attaching the dock today after work, and removing the amps and H701 as well.

pics in a second...


















i should be very close to assembly after this weekend ^_^


----------



## req

So i have nothing in the car but speakers and wires! Time to install the pdsp!










Slowly and sweaty! It was hot and humid out there!! My friends bday is today so thats all for now but ill have more as it comes!

By the way, a shout out to jason bertholomey! Thanks for swinging by the house while you were in town today! Its always cool to hang out with ya and it was awesome getting to hear the refined tune! Your car is sounding great!


----------



## bertholomey

Thanks bro...... but I have a feeling your new creation will clearly leave mine in the dust


----------



## req

small update.

did some more filling\sanding. looking much smoother. next is to attach the phone dock to the top, and then i just gotta hit it with some adhesion promoter and some high build primer before i coat with plasti-dip!


----------



## req

sup yall.

been working hardly i think is a good way of putting it. its been some weird weather - heat index over 100's, or pouring rain w\ lightning... but i push on. luckily i have some shade in the gravel drive way from the house next door.

got the PDSP installed.










got my amps re-installed

*PLEASE IGNORE THE NON MATCHING AND CRAPPY RCA CABLES*. the ones i had were not long enough, i am ordering new ones tonight. also, i ran out of blue\black heatshrink so yea, i had to use yellow because that was the only color i had left. i know where some more is, but ill have to re-do that another day.










working on getting the carPC in its place, but its a fatty and needs some magic work. so that will be soon. the wiring for everything is all done, the PDSP has a connector that is almost impossible to order ONE of. sure, i could have ordered 1000 of them, or if i had a business account with digikey i could have gotten a few - but yea. lets just say this forum helped me find one, and lets just say that helix does not sell them. but i have an analog volume control via some high quality pots that happens on the analog output stage of the pdsp so it gets a nice hot fiberoptic toslink signal. yay 

*otherwise, im stuck a little on the LCD bezel. the droid 4 i got is a piece of crap - and i dont recommend you get one.* it will not stay on, it says its got full battery but i can not get the unit to stay running... and now it will not even turn on. if the THIRD unit that they send me does anything silly, im going to swap to a RAZR, and then ill have to re-do the whole bezel, so at this point im going to slap a piece of ABS over the top of the hole where the NAV dock will go when im satisfied with a phone.

but im almost ready to turn it on for the first go around! sorry this has taken me so long, but working outside in the middle of summer in a gravel driveway, and having a full time job makes it no fun lol.


----------



## lupin_au

Looking good. Will be watching to see how that head unit goes.


----------



## yeldak99

Lookin good man... when do I get a listen?


----------



## req

soon my friend. 

so, i got the pdsp working... 

*PLEASE READ THIS IF YOU OWN A PDSP*

little tip. do NOT have your amplifiers hooked up for the first time you connect to the PDSP in your car. unplug the turn on wires or the RCA's or whatever - just make sure the speakers will not see any voltage. basically if the software version on the PDSP unit is different [older] than the software version you have on the computer it is connecting to, it WILL push the update to the PDSP, and you will recieve the *SQUEEL OF DEATH*. this noise sounds like an old dial up modem at 140db through all your speakers. taking the key out wont stop it either, because the PDSP has a turn off delay, so for about 10 seconds (after you remove the key) this noise will pump through all your speakers at full blast.

lets just say my ears hurt, and my tweeters filled my car with magic smoke.

luckily the tweeters are $20 each.

so, that is my second piece of equipment that i have ever caused to smoke in my 10 years as an installer. i think im doing fairly good.


----------



## captainobvious

req said:


> lets just say my ears hurt, and my tweeters filled my car with magic smoke.
> 
> luckily the tweeters are $20 each.
> 
> so, that is my second piece of equipment that i have ever caused to smoke in my 10 years as an installer. i think im doing fairly good.


 
Ahhh, bummer! With most of these new DSP units, especially on first install and power up, it's best to keep the rca outs to the amps unplugged while you setup initially with crossovers and such. Good thing they were inexpensive tweets!


----------



## req

well it was stupid because i had already set it up on the bench before i even put it near the car.

it was just that i got a newer software version off audiotec-fischer and it pushed the update to the unit. it would be nice if they would warn you that it pushses the update to the unit.

there was a pop-up that said something but since ive only used it one time before this i figured it was grabbing the settings or whatever, i didnt realize it was pushing an update.

so yea, that was the problem. i already have a new pair of tweeters inbound as of today thanks to chefhow


----------



## chefhow

req said:


> i already have a new pair of tweeters inbound as of today thanks to chefhow


No problem pooh. They are already out the door and on the way. You should have them by Wed.


----------



## eviling

req said:


> soon my friend.
> 
> so, i got the pdsp working...
> 
> *PLEASE READ THIS IF YOU OWN A PDSP*
> 
> little tip. do NOT have your amplifiers hooked up for the first time you connect to the PDSP in your car. unplug the turn on wires or the RCA's or whatever - just make sure the speakers will not see any voltage. basically if the software version on the PDSP unit is different [older] than the software version you have on the computer it is connecting to, it WILL push the update to the PDSP, and you will recieve the *SQUEEL OF DEATH*. this noise sounds like an old dial up modem at 140db through all your speakers. taking the key out wont stop it either, because the PDSP has a turn off delay, so for about 10 seconds (after you remove the key) this noise will pump through all your speakers at full blast.
> 
> lets just say my ears hurt, and my tweeters filled my car with magic smoke.
> 
> luckily the tweeters are $20 each.
> 
> so, that is my second piece of equipment that i have ever caused to smoke in my 10 years as an installer. i think im doing fairly good.


thats scary, thats what im afraid of happening at any point with my system and my 450$ tweeters lol because blowing 20$ tweeters is one thing but blowing 450$ tweeters is just a really ****ty day :mean:

love that you could fit the dvd drive, i opted out since i coudln't work a flip out display in my dash, and their is no extra head room on the dash for me. i thought of doing that though, cool to see somebody do it  really wish their was more support in the carpc world but it's getting up their in the past year ive seen tons of new stuff.


----------



## n_olympios

You can easily protect your tweeter from such mishaps by putting an inline cap on the + wire going to it from the amp. 

It's weird that Audiotec-Fischer let this slip by them though. It's not like it won't be common.


----------



## req

they exploded. i dont know if the crossovers stopped working while the update pushed, or what - but they did not like it. but they do have copper shorting sleeves on the pole piece. nice looking tweeter guts.

news - car pc is mounted (needs some carpeting so ill shoot pics this weekend before the show. still working on the LCD bezel. its been so humid the filler is not hardening very quickly. the amps are good, my new RCA's are in, the subs are back in. i just need work work on the tune and finish the LCD housing so i can put the rest of the dash back on!


----------



## chefhow

You melted a set of tweeters, that is AWESOME!!!


----------



## tintbox

I smell something? See ya this weekend.


----------



## req

you should have seen the smoke rolling out of the sail panels hahaha!

i just need to get this LCD housing done now!!!

thanks for the tweets howard. you are a life saver!


----------



## strong*I*bumpin

req said:


> you should have seen the smoke rolling out of the sail panels hahaha!
> 
> i just need to get this LCD housing done now!!!
> 
> thanks for the tweets howard. you are a life saver!


Kool,bet you were scared at first :worried:


----------



## bertholomey

req said:


> thanks for the tweets howard. you are a life saver!


Wow! Howard is following you on Twitter???


----------



## captainobvious

Wow, there is "blown" and then there is these...holy chit mang !


----------



## req

yea, i had a headache and ringing ears all night and into the morning. it was horrible. that squeel of death is LOUD. so please, do not run the pdsp for the first time hooked up to speakers in the car. always unplug the amps and run it, make sure it connects, then after you are good - THEN plug in the amp remote wires lol.


----------



## quickaudi07

lmao, i never seen tweeters cooked like that, just imagine if you had Morels or Hat or something of that nature, and they would blow... I would be pissed! 
Good thing is, they are only 25$ at parts-express


----------



## req

yea, ill cut the other one open tonight so you all can peek inside there


----------



## robolop

Attention to detail, especially the radio.
Great job, dude.


----------



## CLK63DK

Strange timing, I have just seen the exact same tweeter with the exact same demolition done by the P-DSP on a German forum this morning.

I'm sure you have seen it somewhere in the manual (as if we read manuals.. ) but all amplifiers connected to the P-DSP during firmware updates must have the Gain turned down, or be disconnected from Remote turn-on until the programming is done...

Anyway, send a mail to Heinz at Audiotech Fisher describing the problem! This is not OK..


One of the 


req said:


> they exploded. i dont know if the crossovers stopped working while the update pushed, or what - but they did not like it. but they do have copper shorting sleeves on the pole piece. nice looking tweeter guts.
> 
> news - car pc is mounted (needs some carpeting so ill shoot pics this weekend before the show. still working on the LCD bezel. its been so humid the filler is not hardening very quickly. the amps are good, my new RCA's are in, the subs are back in. i just need work work on the tune and finish the LCD housing so i can put the rest of the dash back on!


----------



## req

robolop said:


> Attention to detail, especially the radio.
> Great job, dude.


This means a lot sir, thank you for taking your time to look! 


As far as contacting heinz, does he speak English? Do you have an email address I can try? I tried using the contact Page but I never got a reply. 

Pics of blown tweets soon!


----------



## turbo5upra

contact your dealer... and caps sir!


----------



## req

caps sir? what do you mean by this?

werid.

pic of coil and tweeter guts! burninated!


----------



## t3sn4f2

Caps only protect the tweeter from frequencies lower than the crossover point and DC pops. If this is a DSP fart, who knows what kind of signal those ones and zeros are putting out. At that point the tweeter coil burns up from simply a combination of too much power over an extended amount of time. Horrible noise indicates signal and not a pop or lower frequency energy only.

The best thing is a make-to-break push button kill switch that goes on the amp's remote input. Or doing master volume control after the processor which would leave the signal into the amps (whatever it may be) attenuate to a benign level at pretty much all of the times. 

Protection relays, PTCs, fuses, and bulbs but they aren't easy to implement and from what I understand can affect signal quality. Besides they are only effective with tweeters, a DSP hiccup can take out any driver but maybe a beefy sub.


----------



## turbo5upra

t3sn4f2 said:


> Caps only protect the tweeter from frequencies lower than the crossover point and DC pops. If this is a DSP fart, who knows what kind of signal those ones and zeros are putting out. At that point the tweeter coil burns up from simply a combination of too much power over an extended amount of time. Horrible noise indicates signal and not a pop or lower frequency energy only.
> 
> The best thing is a make-to-break push button kill switch that goes on the amp's remote input. Or doing master volume control after the processor which would leave the signal into the amps (whatever it may be) attenuate to a benign level at pretty much all of the times.
> 
> Protection relays, PTCs, fuses, and bulbs but they aren't easy to implement and from what I understand can affect signal quality. Besides they are only effective with tweeters, a DSP hiccup can take out any driver but maybe a beefy sub.


Condoms aren't a end all be all... but they are a helpful insurance policy.


----------



## captainobvious

n_olympios said:


> You can easily protect your tweeter from such mishaps by putting an inline cap on the + wire going to it from the amp.
> 
> It's weird that Audiotec-Fischer let this slip by them though. It's not like it won't be common.


 
Nick-

How large of a cap should be used? I think it would be good practice for me to do this...
In addition, what about if you're running a wideband driver? What would you use on a 3" or 4" ? Would it be necessary? I mean, if you get a jolt that has audio frequencies wayy lower than the crossover point, seems it would be helpful on them too, no?

Thanks!


-Steve


----------



## n_olympios

Check these out, they explain it much better than I could.

IN THE KNOW: Nov/Dec 2001
Tweeter Crossover Capacitors

Obviously, as stated above, caps are there to protect the tweeters mostly from DC and lower frequencies. However, if your gains are set correctly, no matter what frequency the DSP emits, it shouldn't matter as the signal wouldn't be as high powered as to fry the tweeters. Personally I set my gains somewhat pessimistically (aka lower) than I could, for this reason. The drawback (there's always one) is that certain recordings with low sensitivity are not as loud as I'd like even with the volume pot at full blast. 

Then again, my processor doesn't have options for firmware upgrades or such so this type of problem will probably never occur in my case; although it can be controlled via a pc, it's not as sophisticated as the newer ones.

Edit: this one too!

http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tables/XOver/1stOrder.aspx


----------



## req

my amp gains were set to the lowest point possible. the tweeters had a xo of 2khz, but im sure that went away when the update pushed.

it was mostly high frequency. like an old dial up modem sound. only about 10 seconds.


----------



## sam3535

When in doubt, read the manual.

*Note: We recommend reducing radio volume **to the minimum before first use or not connecting **any amplifier to the pre-amplifier P-DSP **output/s until the basic setting have been adju**sted **in the processor. Not doing so may damage **any loudspeaker/s connected. Fully active**systems in particular have an inherent risk of **damage even at low volume.*

Edit: As a side note, reducing the volume is also mentioned in the software update section of the manual but it does not say anything about not connecting the rca outs. This part above was the only thing I remembered from the manual when installing mine about five months ago.​


----------



## req

if you read my posts, i said i did read the manual. i did connect to the unit on my test bench and do the setup before it touched my car.

the problem was that i downloaded the new file off their server after i installed it in my car.

what it does not say in that manual, is that after you update your software and download the most recent version and run it - then you connect to your processor - it pushes the update to the pdsp unit. i read that whole manual and everything on the website. it is very poorly written.


----------



## Auto Essentials

nice work on the door panels!


----------



## CLK63DK

**** case...

But as the manual say, No amplifiers are to be active when installing or updating the DSP..

Anyway, contact your dealer and Audiotec Fischer.
This can be done here; Audiotec Fischer GmbH | German Car Hifi | Brax -- Helix -- G-Control : Kontakt

And naturally they understand english.

Describe your problem, and see what comes out. At least you should tell your story.

For the CAP's in line with the signal, if it must be done, you should always go minimum 1 octave under the crossover point from the active crossover, and remember it add's a phase shift, so this must be compensated.

/
Chris


----------



## req

yup. i already tried to email helix and AF on their contact pages, i even sent an email to rockford fosgate because they handle the US distrobution - and the only ones to get back to me was RF, and all they said was its not their actual product.

anyway - the computer is ALIVE! the screen is in, i just gotta do some tidying up but its all in and ready to rock and roll!


----------



## Mic10is

AF forwards all emails to Rico in the US


----------



## t3sn4f2

CLK63DK said:


> **** case...
> 
> But as the manual say, No amplifiers are to be active when installing or updating the DSP..
> 
> Anyway, contact your dealer and Audiotec Fischer.
> This can be done here; Audiotec Fischer GmbH | German Car Hifi | Brax -- Helix -- G-Control : Kontakt
> 
> And naturally they understand english.
> 
> Describe your problem, and see what comes out. At least you should tell your story.
> 
> For the CAP's in line with the signal, if it must be done, you should always go minimum 1 octave under the crossover point from the active crossover, and remember it add's a phase shift, so this must be compensated.
> 
> /
> Chris


Phase shift is at the crossover point which would be out of the active passband and as a result like the passive high pass filter would not affect the passband.

I would go with a 30mh which would cover pretty much every tweeter and nominal impedance out there.


----------



## eviling

req said:


> anyway - the computer is ALIVE! the screen is in, i just gotta do some tidying up but its all in and ready to rock and roll!


----------



## CLK63DK

?? 
As I wrote..

When going 1 octave lower than the crossover freq. you are out of the active band. 

30mH.... You have just described a low pass filter...

8,2uF would be OK for most 4ohm tweeters.






t3sn4f2 said:


> Phase shift is at the crossover point which would be out of the active passband and as a result like the passive high pass filter would not affect the passband.
> 
> I would go with a 30mh which would cover pretty much every tweeter and nominal impedance out there.


----------



## req

im at tintbox's shop right now. we just got the tintbox running after a 9 hour install run with myself, tintbox, and mic10is, with a few guests and my wife as support!

his car literally just turned on! EXCITE!

time to try and tune mine a little bit now!


----------



## rimshot

This is really COOL, cant wait to see that screen lit up. I would be paranoid to use that dsp at all after seeing this happen!


----------



## eviling

are you gonna hit that show in pottsvile PA mid september? id love to see this, i think i might stop by that show wheather i get my build done or not idk, i hope to have it done but i'll probably just guest it.


----------



## captainobvious

Damn, fine work on that bezel. The LCD looks great in there! Congrats


----------



## req

I'm driving to cherry point north Carolina for work today, pictures and video of the car pc later :-D 

by the way, the show this weekend was great feedback on the tune. There was nobody in my class, and I think the points could have been too generous, but I managed to score and 85.5 in Meca modified street class, the highest score of any mod street competitor this season so far. 

Success :-D


----------



## tintbox

Congrats!!! Team Diyma!


----------



## highly

Success! Congrats, man!


----------



## captainobvious

Damn, great score bud!


----------



## captainobvious

n_olympios said:


> 6 db Crossover Table


 

This one is perfect. Thanks!!


----------



## quickaudi07

This looks bad ass very impressive

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ErinH

Andy, this work is awesome! Keep it up!


----------



## BowDown

Congrats man. Look forward to hearing it at the end of summer show down. 



Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.


----------



## quickaudi07

BowDown said:


> Congrats man. Look forward to hearing it at the end of summer show down.
> 
> 
> 
> Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.


Looks like both of us have the same phones 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## eviling

quickaudi07 said:


> Looks like both of us have the same phones
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


The HTC onex is muc better Samsung sucks with firmware updates I had the original captavate

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## req

thanks for starting a htc versus samsung argument in my build log 0_o

i promise ill get a vid up for you guys, i was doing some tweaking to everything and i ended up needing a turn on delay for the helix pdsp. i was getting a funky turn on pop from the optical signal when the pc booted into windows. does not happen with the analog side - but i get a bit of alt whine if i try and use the analog output. i dont know if thats due to a crappy wire im using or anything else, but it is dead silent with optical... so i will continue to love optical signal paths lol!

my favorite part is the fact that the CDrom works awesome. in centrafuse there is a built in eject button so all i have is the slot. the only issue is that when there is a disc in the cdrom it takes a little longer to boot due to the disc read time after the bios. no big deal. honestly driving around i dont even notice the boot time. i am not even out of my driveway by the time it comes on most of the time.

so yea, i will get a video up and running. i need to take the PC out of its spot and do some final touches and clean up some cables that i was using for things - but other than that things are good!


ill tell you what though - i am very happy with the function of the P-DSP as a tuning standpoint. its very straight forward and the effects seem clearer than other processors i have used - it almost does not make sense because you assume they all do the same thing - but i guess they all do them kind of differently.

but i still miss the convienence of the RUX-C701. if i could modify the PDSP to use the C701 controller - i think i would stain my underwear.

but i have the next best thing - a carPC lol!

the good news - i can save\load DSP settings real quick on my carPC.
the bad news - the resolution of the screen is not 800x600 and therefore the helix (audiotec fischer) softer does not scale to size of anything less than 800x600 and not all of it shows up on there... so no tuning on the car pc.


why on earth are they designing software like its in windows 3.0? it seriously bothers me that they dont have a more intuitive GUI.


----------



## goodstuff

What contests are you doing at the summer showdown? 
*Crosses fingers, please don't be in my class*


----------



## bbfoto

> why on earth are they designing software like its in windows 3.0? it seriously bothers me that they dont have a more intuitive GUI.


This is a problem with essentially all of the car audio processors that have been available to this point. I'm hoping that the Arc PS8 will not be a turd in this regard.

And integrating a display into a CarPC install (whether it be a touch screen or non-touch screen) is the first thing to consider IMO when deciding to go this route, mostly due to screen resolution limitations in both the software you decide to use and hardware as well. Other issues can be screen ledgibility full sunlight and touch screen acurracy and response/lag. Then there are the boot/hibernate issues and USB device freezeup problems when coming out of hibernate, etc. SSDs have come a long way in remedying some of these issues and it looks like you have most of this all worked out, so mad props are in order! 

The build is looking great!


----------



## goodstuff

bbfoto said:


> This is a problem with essentially all of the car audio processors that have been available to this point. I'm hoping that the Arc PS8 will not be a turd in this regard.
> 
> And integrating a display into a CarPC install (whether it be a touch screen or non-touch screen) is the first thing to consider IMO when deciding to go this route, mostly due to screen resolution limitations in both the software you decide to use and hardware as well. Other issues can be screen ledgibility full sunlight and touch screen acurracy and response/lag. Then there are the boot/hibernate issues and USB device freezeup problems when coming out of hibernate, etc. SSDs have come a long way in remedying some of these issues and it looks like you have most of this all worked out, so *mad props are in order*!
> 
> The build is looking great!


----------



## bbfoto

^THANKS for the backup, LOL!


----------



## req

goodstuff said:


> What contests are you doing at the summer showdown?
> *Crosses fingers, please don't be in my class*


modified street and the sq top 20 

a video is uploading now guys. if you want to see anything else please let me know and ill see what i can do. i didnt do a whole system walkthrough like the last time - this just shows off the pc portion.

here you go guys;






thanks for all the good words guys - you all keep me motivated to finish this project! again, any questions - feel free. id love to answer anything you guys are thinking.


----------



## eviling

req said:


> modified street and the sq top 20
> 
> a video is uploading now guys. if you want to see anything else please let me know and ill see what i can do. i didnt do a whole system walkthrough like the last time - this just shows off the pc portion.
> 
> here you go guys;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for all the good words guys - you all keep me motivated to finish this project! again, any questions - feel free. id love to answer anything you guys are thinking.


ahh have you tried the GPS packaged with centrafuse? i picked up the GPS package and i had it up the other day and was playing around a little bit but found the GPS software super freaking confusing :-s










I like how you set yours up, i wanted to do a dvd drive and all that but it never worked out with space and i didnt wanna mod my dash that much because i would have to buy a whole new dash piece and it took me months to replace it the last time i screwed up the dash  and expensive. I also planned on a USB hub but i ordered like 3 USB extensions and none worked on high draw items like hard drives and stuff, could of gone with a extenraly powered hub i suppose never tried to see if that worked with the 16' cables.


----------



## chevbowtie22

Nice job. It looks great in your dash. You can tell its not stock but it still flows really well with your dash. Much better than a lot of car-pc set ups I've seen. I love how responsive it is.


----------



## req

i could have had it flush with the front, i plan on putting a dock for a cell phone on the top flat area - but the droid4 is a piece of junk so i decided not to do the extra work for a crappy phone.

sigh.


----------



## IBcivic

Good job, man!


----------



## strakele

Pretty sick Andy. Nice setup. Hope I get to hear/see it again in person.

Also, probably just the camera but in the video it looks like your subs are out of phase with each other.


----------



## derickveliz

strakele said:


> Pretty sick Andy. Nice setup. Hope I get to hear/see it again in person.
> 
> Also, probably just the camera but in the video it looks like your subs are out of phase with each other.


I was just about to comment about that, on minute 1:44


----------



## yeldak99

I'm not gonna lie, that video has me semi erect!


----------



## IBcivic

It is most probably an optical illusion or some sort of by-product of digital imagery.
This is not the first time that I see a dual sub set-up do this on camera.


----------



## req

yea i dont know, i checked the phase with a battery and they both move the same direction. really weird on camera - not in person *shrug*


----------



## quickaudi07

req said:


> yea i dont know, i checked the phase with a battery and they both move the same direction. really weird on camera - not in person *shrug*



Do not worry about that, subs move the same directions, and camera is of because of the frames per second. I'm sure you did your install properly so no worries 



Also I would like to say, Great Job on the car pure, everything came out looking supper fresh, and nice and clean look....

I was thinking for a very long time to do a car puter for my car, but after playing around with the software for some time, I noticed that I cant play any music videos, even though I downloaded codex, and other crap to do a plugin to the software, my mp4, mkv, and some avi would not work for a life of me.

So I quit going that route and thats why I bought Kenwood DNX9990HD which I'm very happy!


----------



## t3sn4f2

Nice job on the CarPC. 

Sorry if I missed it but what type of signal output and device are you using to interface with the processor? The motherboard's built in S/PDIF out and win7 OS volume control?


----------



## req

I was playing a dvd in the car the other day. I don't ever watch videos anyway so it was not a concern but I'm sure I can play them if I wanted. 

I am using the windows volume control and toslink optical directly out from the motherboard into the helix pdsp input


----------



## t3sn4f2

req said:


> I am using the windows volume control and toslink optical directly out from the motherboard into the helix pdsp input


Have you noticed if your get any type of "zipper noise" when holding down the volume buttons and while something with a constant tone that doesn't have much mid or highs is playing? It'll sound like very brief ticks and pops. Also happens when you mute. You can test it with an steady bass tone at decent volume.

If you find it does happen and you want to get rid of it the best and likely only way to do it is to install a pci soundcard that has its own dsp mixer and has its basic functions like volume and mute control be the windows OS. That type of card will have a zero crossing function built into it so you never get that zipper noise.

"In a system where an amplifier with digitally controlled gain is applied to an input signal, signal artifacts will occur when the gain of the amplifier abruptly switches between its discrete gain settings while outputting a non-zero current. At audio frequencies, such as in modern consumer electronics like digital audio players, these effects are clearly audible, resulting in a 'zipping' sound when rapidly ramping the gain, or a soft 'click' when a single gain change is made. Artifacts are disconcerting and clearly not desirable. If changes are made at a zero-crossing of the signal, the input is zero, so no matter how the amplifier gain setting changes, the output will also remain at zero."

I use an EMU-0404PCI in XP and it does very well with Centrafuse when I've tried it. Even has a soft mute and LOG master volume control. $99 so its pretty affordable. The only problem I see with it is that you have to make sure that your motherboards PCI slot is not there exclusively for a video card, some miniITX are that way. Also this particular pro-style card has a selectable sample rate output only. It doesn't set sample rate on the fly so if you are playing sample rate other than 44.1kHz often it could be a problem since you would have to go and switch the sample rate in the mixer and back every time the song or video plays. Other more consumer based cards will likely have auto sample rate selection so that might be a better option. You should check and see with this and others cards that the OS, centrafuse, and the card are compatible though.

Hope you don't have that zipper noise issue but if you do I hope that helps.


----------



## eviling

req said:


> I was playing a dvd in the car the other day. I don't ever watch videos anyway so it was not a concern but I'm sure I can play them if I wanted.
> 
> I am using the windows volume control and toslink optical directly out from the motherboard into the helix pdsp input


Wait the helix? How is windows controlling the volume over optic? 



Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


----------



## t3sn4f2

eviling said:


> Wait the helix? How is windows controlling the volume over optic?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2


It doesn't control the Helix's master volume option. The CarPC does its own master volume control in the digital domain via windows. Which is very high quality.

Windows 7 Audio Playback - Setup Guide - Benchmark

Using a soundcard like the one I mentioned above in place of the windows sound architecture will also provide that high quality digital volume control.


----------



## req

Luckily I get zero noise besides a turn on pop and i have a amp delay timer from navone engineering that im going to tweak so everything is kosher. I only get a turn on pop with the toslink audio as windows boots. Thats the only problem I'm having. 

I also need to figure out what the deal is with the pots I'm using for the helix analog control so that i dont need to bother with the windows volume control.


----------



## cnut334

Very impressive work!!!!!


----------



## req

thanks dude!

do you guys want me to do a full system show up like i did last time? i dont really know where to go from here haha.

i still have to finish my kick panels X_x


----------



## Mic10is

req said:


> thanks dude!
> 
> do you guys want me to do a full system show up like i did last time? i dont really know where to go from here haha.
> 
> i still have to finish my kick panels X_x




Please dont

just go finish the kicks...and by finish I mean just put the dead pedal back in so you cover the mess behind the open carpet and call it a day


----------



## req

i dont have one. its broken, like 3 years ago when i first had to take it out the tab snapped off 

ill find a new one


----------



## captainobvious

Looks terrific Andy! I also like how responsive it is. No real lag to speak of. Do you have to power off before turning the car off? How long does it take to do a "shut down" on that thing? Just wondering if it would be a PITA if your making a 5 minute grocery run or hopping in and out of the car.
Have you noticed a significant difference in going toslink over RCA connections?


----------



## shawnk

Man, I wish I had noticed this build log sooner. We (my family) returned from Va. just yesterday. We visited family in Chesepeake for a week, and spent quite some time all over the Va. Beach area. It would have been nice to meet up and see your ride in person. Perhaps next summer if you're still around? 

Nice build btw!


----------



## Justin Zazzi

req said:


> i used 1.5lbs of Duct Seal from Lowes to mass load the speaker pod that already weighed a solid 2lbs from fiberglass\wood\filler. the great thing about this stuff is that id stays malleable in very cold temperatures, and will not melt at high temperatures like clay. I worked on an aircraft carrier, and all the transitions between bulkheads where cables went through they installed a bunch of this stuff over 40 years old, and it sill has some nice elasticity. so it should last quite a while.


Thanks for the tip on the duct seal. I picked up a few pounds of it today for my install and it solved a problem I've been scratching my head about for a while.

Your car has many revisions in this thread and I'm a little confused. You competed in the Modified Street class with woofers in the doors, or with kicks? Did you compete in that class with your CarPC? Also, do you have any finished photos of what your tweeters look like?

I ask because I too have a Golf and want to compete in that class but I'm not sure how much I can alter the appearance of the speakers while still "retaining a factory appearance". Thanks for all the photos and notes, it is always fun to see someone's approach to installing in the same car I have, and thankfully the Golf is so popular there are many examples to browse and learn from.


----------



## req

thanks for the words guys!

the difference between toslink and analog out on the PC is night and day. the signal is hotter with optical, and i get feedback with the analog. i am not sure weather its due to a poor ground on the pc chassis or what, but it is completly gone with the toslink and the only noise floor is whatever is in the recording - and that is awesome. i get no noise using the pc digital volume control, and no audible distortion or anything that i can make out. the power supply i used has a 12v+ sens wire just like an amplifier and it basically kicks the power button on, and the computer does a windows resume at that point. basically the only thing i have to work out is why i am getting a turn on pop as windows opens after the "RESUMING WINDOWS" splash page. other than that ONE issue, everything has been awesome. from a cold boot, its less than 30 seconds, from a resume its about 11 seconds. the alpine DVA-9861 and alpine PXA\RUX-H\C701 combo was about 9 seconds. so i am very happy. by the time i put my seatbelt on and im backing out of the driveway the sound is playing right where it left off when i got out of the car previously.

if anyone is in the area and ever wants to have a listen i would be more than happy to work it out for anyone who is interested! i live here permanently just about to buy a house, so if i am around id be happy to!

and your welcome on the duct seal - that stuff is amazing.

as far as competition, modified street says the interior has to look like it could be stock, speakers can not be vented outside, metal can not be cut (i think it states 1\2 inch can be cut to facilitate mounting speakers in the stock location), and kick panels are allowed.

so yes, i used kick panels, stock door locations, stock tweeter locations, the helix-pdsp and the car pc.

wew, i think that covers it! haha


----------



## req

and a video of the start up and shut down with a little toying around in between


----------



## req

sup guys! from the car pc!


----------



## Horsemanwill

show off


----------



## IBcivic

Horsemanwill said:


> show off


Dammit...you beat me to it!

Cool, glad it is working out for you


----------



## req

yea. phone acting as a hot-spot is really badass.


----------



## quickaudi07

req said:


> yea. phone acting as a hot-spot is really badass.


You could run Pandora or get Tune in radio and add ur favorite music stations as well.....

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## turbo5upra

req said:


> sup guys! from the car pc!


Why do you need interwebz in yo car?


----------



## JayinMI

Why not?

Jay


----------



## ryyo

Would love to check this out sometime. Need to get some ideas for my next build. Not enough sq oriented people in this area


----------



## req

Sure dude, this weekend I'm going to the biggest show on the east coast besides sbn in pottsville pa, after that it's October for finals in Nashville tn... But I should be around if you want to meet up sometime. I know there are about 4 sq guys in the hr area. Maybe ill shoot some pms around and try to get a mini meet together between these two shows.


----------



## ryyo

req said:


> Sure dude, this weekend I'm going to the biggest show on the east coast besides sbn in pottsville pa, after that it's October for finals in Nashville tn... But I should be around if you want to meet up sometime. I know there are about 4 sq guys in the hr area. Maybe ill shoot some pms around and try to get a mini meet together between these two shows.


Yeah man, that would definitely be cool. Just let me know


----------



## hirino

very nice work .


----------



## zikzak

Wow - nice work!


----------



## dales

awesome work and integration.


----------



## req

thanks guys!

i actually just got my hood clear coated at a maaco paint shop for $100. it looks like it did when i first got it, and that makes me feel a lot better about presenting my car at finals. ill get some shots of it after i detail it this week, install a new white LED interior kit, and put in my new armrest.

i also got to get some real awesome smelling air fresheners...


----------



## eviling

erg that video made me wanna cry. where you succeeeded in all the things i desired at the begining of my project lol but i gave up on it was just taking to much time for me to work out. you also seem to of done a very nice job of figuirting things out with power resume and power consumtion issues that was something i was afraid of. looks very nice, i really love the dash and how you finished that face. very nice, looks wayyyy better than that double single dinn setup, way cooler...hope your windows are tinted though O_O

I was pretty happy with my compromise. pretty soon..sound...than setup and mounting the finals speakers for me, which wont take long since its no fiberglass work, and no painting lol well except i still need to make the second grill addaptor for my driver side door panel :\ the passenger one just needs to be vinyled.

went with an alpine S920HD, i like it. and one up, it has a knob  didn't you have a helix unit? hook up a pot


----------



## req

I have the pots, and i need to figure out why they are acting wonky, i might have crossed a line while I soldered them in the car but I was very particular when I did it. There are two pots, one for master volume and one for just the sub channels. It seems like one knob does 0-50% master volume and the second does 50-100% volume... Its very strange, but i haven't had time to take it all apart and mess with it. I'm so glad that the power and resume stuff has been so easy, everything works like a charm and i have only had a few (like maybe 3) times where something has glitched and all I had to do is either reboot the pc or restart certrafuse, it has been very solid since I got it all running... I just have to get off my ass and organize my music and upload more of it to the internal drive lol... When you have 2tb of music and 120gb to fill it takes time to sort it all haha. 

But I am extremely satisfied with how everything works... And success on optical again. Zero feedback or noise. Makes me smile 

But I do get noise when I am charging my phone and using it as an aux input! Stupid feedback through the cig charger!

I'll take pictures when im at finals I promise, and i just got the hood refinished and im gonna detail the car this week so it will be nice and clean!


----------



## req

so updates from meca finals 2012.

came in 5th place for mod street, even though i had some serious issues over the weekend. ill take it.

basically on firday most of team DIYMA was there and we started tuning and things were going great. i started having a scratchy throat and i knew it was going to suck. 

saturday was the day i am to be judged. so i hook the car up in the morning and we start to do some final tweaking, in the course of the day - or maybe even before - my right tweeter starts to have a funny sound. it seems to be slightly damaged. levels get changed, crossovers, eq, time alignment - but my cold got worse and at this point im having lots of congestion in my chest, nose, and *ears*. at this point im relying heavily on my team mates to help tune. all the sudden my sub bass is not responding to time alignment and phase adjustments!

thanks to strekle, millerlyte, and kirk profit - we were able to force one signal through the dsp and amp and change the speaker terminals of one subwoofer to force the speakers in-phase. dont ask me what happened, but we resolved it - AFTER one of the judges had their turn. damn.

so the following two judges do their thing - and vinny is the last judge. i am his last car of the night, and its around 8pm. he mentions to me to get in the car and have a chat. it turns out *that in modified street, car computers are not allowed*. it says in the rules for modified that computers ARE allowed, therefore in all classes below modified they are not. OK - i missed it, the earlier judges missed it, the judges from previous shows missed it, now what? 

steve stern spoke with vinny and chris zenner and they came up with one option. if i put a 12v car cd player in, and bypass the car computer, i can be re-judged and finish the season. ok - well where do you get a radio and the needed wires at 8:00pm on a saturday in a town you are not from - oh yea, the venue closes at 11:30pm. 

they said that i could finish it in the morning and juding would start at 9am, and the gates open at 7am. luckily ponikej lived locally and had a radio i could borrow! with the help of a bunch of people at finals and their tools, (*wheres tha butta*, team arc, team jl, team diyma) i was able to get the raidio slaved in and using analog input to the DSP. then the guys on team diyma we got tune stuff changed around. i dont know how it happened, but in the rush to get the tune done one of the midbass speakers was out of phase and some of the TA could have been closer. maybe it was stress, maybe because i was exhausted and barely slept the whole time because i was sick (when you cant breathe through your nose it is not easy to sleep with a sleep apnea machine), maybe it was because so many people were trying to help. not a big deal - we still got 5th.

after the judges went through - bikinpunk sat down with me and we flipped some stuff and changed the TA - and aside from the tweeter damage, it sounds quite a bit better!

i have let team diyma know that im done competing - i had an awesome time meeting everyone and even though the drive home was one of the worst days in my life - finals was more of a challenge for me that i had anticipated - but the comradery that i experienced was second to none.

i just want to thank turbo5supra (brian) for kicking my ass into gear every day, and chefhow (howard) for pulling me out of a hole on saturday night. mic wallace (mic10is), todd lulliak (highly), erin hardison (bikinpunk), and mark eldridge for helping me tune the whole weekend. without team diyma, i would have not even been able to compete.

thanks for watching guys.
if i do more on the car, i might just make a new thread.

-andy


----------



## decibelle

You're a real trooper, Ranger. 

My suggestion: move up a class or two and stop dealing with all the red tape. You certainly have the skill set to do so easily. You would be a truly formidable competitor when there's less to hold you back. 

Congrats on taking a trophy in spite of all that. Hope you feel better and are able to make it down to Jason's meet in the coming weeks.


Edit: Also, that dream theater song we heard the other day? The Root of All Evil. Perty shure


----------



## AccordUno

Andy, we met on friday night (sorry I jetted before actually listening to anyone's ride). BTW, If I would have went Saturday like I was hoping to, I have an extra P9 HU that I could have lent you, I was actually closer than John.. 

Kinda sucks that you have decided to move on from competition.


----------



## req

thanks for the kind words guys!

its just that my wife and i are planning on buying a house. the car as it sits is my daily driver and in order to do the work that i WANT to do - i would need a beater or something and a place to do the work.

so until i can have a toy car to build, i do not want to dump my money in competing this way. im going to get a house and work on that before i come back into the circuit. i enjoy everyones company and with some small modifications to the competition format(s) it would be way better - one of those steps is a joint finals, and that looks like its going to happen this year. hell - the wife and i might make a vacation out to indy if that goes down.

but im going to focus on my wife and a new house first - and hopefully i can end up with the car to build into the format that i want and step up to the big dogs plate. but that will be further down the road of life!

i will still continue to go to meet and greets, and ill still be on the forum. im just taking a break from the competition to get a house and maybe finish up college.


----------



## strakele

Hey man, glad I was able to help with the bizarre sub issue. Congrats on placing after all the issues and hope you can make it to Jason's! Good luck with the house thing too... that's exciting.


----------



## turbo5upra

Thanks for the arrow to the crotch... And rustbucketgrl says you suck for not listing her in the pic


----------



## pyropoptrt

It's sad to hear that you're retiring from competing so soon. It was great getting to meet you and I think the carputer setup is pretty cool.


----------



## FLYONWALL9

Dang you guys ROCKED IT!


----------



## nucci

turbo5upra said:


> Thanks for the arrow to the crotch... And rustbucketgrl says you suck for not listing her in the pic


Not the only one who noticed :laugh:


----------



## FLYONWALL9

I couldn't find the finished photo's of your kicks. How did they turn out?


----------



## req

nobody knew i even had kicks at finals until i told them 

they turned out awesome - but the stage at its width gives a small rainbow. i think at center stage its like 5" higher than at the outboard boundaries. so either suffer in width and have a even\high\narrow stage, or suffer in height and have a wide\uneven stage with easier time correction. 

its always a trade off... but there are some things i would be interested in trying now that im not regulated to class restrictions


----------



## wdemetrius1

Thanks for the demo of your Car Computer. It was one of the best parts of the show!


----------



## ErinH

if I had been able to hear the car before you were judged you easily could have placed even higher. The car just had a couple small things... all self-defeat type issues like I always have, that kept it back. Flipped phase on midbass, about 4ms of delay on the left midrange... 3-5 points. guaranteed. 


don't quit, dude. was going to say this in an email but I'll toss it out here:
what about just having a cheap deck installed in the glove box strictly for competition? run a y-cable off it and in to the processor and power it up when needed via an on/off switch. since you do all your dsp work via the external processor, you don't need a fancy deck. just something that spins CDs.


----------



## req

Erin, by far you are a way cool guy and I can't thank you enough for doing a bit of tuning at the end there... Being sick like I was I couldn't have a conversation without having problems hearing what people said. It's a bummer that it happened after the judges, but what are ya gonna do 

Its not about last place or something else, it's about my wife and a house and saving money because I know it's going to be a fixer upper kind of deal. We are thinking it's going to be Like 250k for a nice place in virginia beach where we live. Not to mention I plan on starting up college again and its gonna be busy! It's just something I will have to come back into after I get my life on my next track. 

So it's not about quitting erin, it's about my life's priorities just like we were talking about on sunday night with the things you were talking about letting go. 

I am not gonna lie, im going to miss everything erin


----------



## bbfoto

Hey Andy, congrats on the 5th place showing! I for one have really enjoyed your build log and watching your progress on the car and your awesome CarPC setup. It has inspired and kickstarted me more than once. 

Sounds like you have your head screwed on straight, though. It's time to concentrate on the things that will secure your future and family for the long haul. Buying a home as soon as possible and educating yourself are about the smartest investments you can make, and I wish you the best of luck and prosperity in both endeavours.

In the meantime, you have a great car and system, and I'm sure that you will keep fine-tuning and upgrading it as time and budget allow. And there's no reason that you can't spend this time to research and plan for that "ultimate" install in the future once you get the important stuff settled.

Oh, basic home buying tip: If at all possible, even though your family might not require the extra space at this point in time, Do Not buy anything with less than 3 bedrooms and 2 full bathrooms. If you ever get in a pinch and need to sell it, or rent it out, or if/when you are ready to upgrade, it will be MUCH easier to find a qualified buyer. In good or bad markets and/or times, no one will choose anything less than 3/2, and especially so in a competitive market.

And also consider that sometimes the best value out there are the homes where all of the major work or remodeling/upgrading has already been done (if done properly).

Also, always hire a local, independent (and preferably highly recommended by someone other than your realtor) home inspector to protect you from purchasing a house with unseen/unknown major issues (foundation, structural, roofing, plumbing, termite/mold/water damage, electrical, etc.).

And if you plan to buy a fixer-upper with plans to remodel or add-on, make that known to the inspector and realtor ahead of time. Certain homes or areas could have limitations regarding remodeling, zoning, permits, or engineering and structural limitations.

Don't mean to scare you, LOL, but it's easy to get caught up in the excitement of buying your first home because, well, it's just exciting.  Just be smart and do your reasearch just like you would for your car audio install, and don't be afraid to ask a dumb question.


----------



## ErinH

req said:


> Erin, by far you are a way cool guy and I can't thank you enough for doing a bit of tuning at the end there... Being sick like I was I couldn't have a conversation without having problems hearing what people said. It's a bummer that it happened after the judges, but what are ya gonna do
> 
> Its not about last place or something else, it's about my wife and a house and saving money because I know it's going to be a fixer upper kind of deal. We are thinking it's going to be Like 250k for a nice place in virginia beach where we live. Not to mention I plan on starting up college again and its gonna be busy! It's just something I will have to come back into after I get my life on my next track.
> 
> So it's not about quitting erin, it's about my life's priorities just like we were talking about on sunday night with the things you were talking about letting go.
> 
> I am not gonna lie, im going to miss everything erin


I understand.

I'll be building my second one next year (actually, hopefully will be breaking ground early next month). Wife, kid... work travel... I stayz bizzy, 2. 

I was just encouraging you to not drop it altogether. You seem to be 'quitting' based on not wanting to change anything in the install but also not wanting to bump up a class. That's why I was commenting on you just using a deck in the car simply for competition purposes and that only requires a cheapo deck that'll spin a CD for you. That way, if you want, you can still make some shows here and there. Just in case you get bitten by the bug late next season and decide you want to make a run, you'll already have some points.


----------



## req

oh i get you erin 

if i end up at finals this season, it will be because i am going as a guest. i may just do what todd did and fly out there and check it out!


either way, im not backing out because of changing the carpc. i could find a way to stay in my class - but school\house are going to be my thing for a while. i plan on getting a house with a garage - and that means the wife will let me have a toy car that i can play with in a few years!

either way, i have plans for down the road. and if i do continue to compete with the gti, it will most likely be in modified because there are a few things i would like to try that modified street does not let me do 

but thank you erin, for the help. i couldnt ask for a better guy to be on my team.




and thanks for the words of encouragement bbfoto as well. i am glad that my build log has given you some inspriation - because i hope you all know that if this build log wasnt up here, then i wouldnt have gotten it done! 

and if anyone is in the virginia beach area, i would be glad to let you check it out too!

-andy


----------



## n_olympios

That's the way life goes for most of us. It is a recurring theme and I'm sure you'll be back sooner than you might think. 

Congrats on the placement and too bad for the mishaps, but that's what makes it more interesting, right?


----------



## req

right!

thanks for the kind words everyone 

thought i would share this too. i did a basic system in the wifes car - 2011 Golf 2.5L 5cyl automatic.

arc XDi805 amplifier
german meistro concept 6.5's
phoenix gold sl10 dvc4
home brew fiberglass stealth box
stock subfloor amp rack


































and her new rims that we are going to get powdercoated


----------



## skipy4you2

nice setup....


----------



## req

thanks!

pm replied


----------



## captainobvious

Andy-
Nice, clean looking install in the wife's car! I'm sure she is very happy 


-Steve


----------



## req

thanks guys. also, a post for people who are interested!

i have been getting quite a few PM's asking how i did my door pods for my IDQ8's in my GTi. i hope this helps out the forum.

first, i made an area in the stock speaker hole to mount the base of the enclosure to. you just have to use your imagination;


















then i layed tape and fiberglassed the base. i used regular painters tape or masking tape. then i applied aluminum foil over this for a second layer of protection - and to get the nice curves in the hole, i used aluminum foil tape. its super strong, and very sticky. it really helped in this situation. at the end, a nice thin coat of carnuba car wax as a release agent for the fiberglass works wonders.










































once it dried, i trimmed it to a shape that i liked that made the most sense. remember smooth edges are best, nothing wavy. 


















i made a speaker ring that was 2 layers to counter sink the speaker.this is counter sunk baffle - it is IMPORTANT or the pod will look stupid. you can shape the outside any way that makes sense.










then i wrapped it with the stretchiest material i could find. thick is not better - 4 way stretch is best. and i used super glue all around the edges. 










































then i applied fiberglass resin to the stretched cloth










then i applied fiberglass to strengthen it.










if it looks stupid at this stage, fix whatever you need to fix. after this, it will take a LOT of work to fix anything. there should be NO WRINKLES AT ALL. 

then i filled any low spots with light weight body filler and sanded it as smooth as i could


























drilled out the matching holes for the bolts in the first step, and wrapped it in black stretchy vinyl. i used a hair drier to heat it more to stretch better. i used DAP LANDAU TOP AND TRIM  contact cement to adhere the vinyl to the fiberglass.

and thats about it.


























tip - when you make the counter sunk baffle, add 1\4 inch or so to the speaker over all outer diameter if you plan on carpet or vinyl - i did not add enough and the speaker was very tight with mine.

be imaginative with the way the speaker mounts to the door- but i do NOT recommend mounting the enclosure to the PLASTIC DOOR PANEL - always firmly mount it to the DOOR FRAME to reduce rattles.

sound deadening is almost always needed in door panels with high output midbass speakers. i recommend *DUCT SEAL* from lowes\home depot or any industrial electrical store near you. it is commonly used to form a water tight seal on walls\bulkheads or conduit in buildings and ships. it is very heavy and sticky, and has better temperature resistance than clay. liberally coat the outside and\or inside of your enclosure with this, you will not regret it.

hope that helps.
-andy


----------



## suzi427

loos great!


----------



## skipy4you2

Thx a lot for the pictures.
Great job.


----------



## req

so guys. thread from the dead.

i got some packages in the mail, and im getting a new substage.

old;


















what is replacing it. two incriminator audio flatlyne 18" DVC 2 subs. they will get 1 ohm (~600w each or so) from my mosconi as200.4


















your thoughts?


----------



## highly

req said:


> your thoughts?


More cowbell.


----------



## quietfly

*"THE"* Bruce Dickerson....

{SNL love...}


----------



## req




----------



## goodstuff

Ridonkulous


----------



## IBcivic

BIGGAH IZ MO BETTAH!


----------



## bertholomey

The end of an era  same feeling as when you pulled out the horns. Should be fun though!


----------



## req

hah i know i know. and i keep feeling like i should bring the horns back - but we all move on - just like when you bought the BRZ!!! 

the max's are awesome subs. i am just having fun and doing more new things. as i keep saying, cone area is king. i would rather have 10mm of xmax and 300 square inches of cone area than 30mm of xmax and 100 square inches of cone area 

this way, i get both 

just my opinion though


----------



## ecbmxer

Those things are monsters! Still doing the parcel shelf? I don't remember if you mention it anywhere, but did you do a bunch to seal the rear seat in the upright position and seal the shelf all the way around?


----------



## req

yes to the IB shelf, and no to the sealing 

the max's worked fine, even though some was leaked. when i redo the baffle for the flatlynes, i am going to use body filler to back fill the cracks after i make the baffle fit and get a nice tight seal between the seats and everything all the way around. plus i am going to provision for a grill on top this time.

also in the list of to do things, the back hatch panel has a vent of sorts that lets air down around the shelf to the under side, i am going to fill this with expandable foam so that there is no way around as well. i have a second one that is black instead of grey that i will be installing.

oh the joys of rebuilding haha


----------



## ecbmxer

I remember after seeing your car I really wanted to try a similar IB setup. But I put my bike in the back so often it would be a PITA. Thanks for the info!


----------



## bbfoto

[email protected] Andy, how much bass do you need in that little car? 

Hope you put some extra money aside when you blow your windows out...errrr, or your eardrums!  You abandoning SQ for SPL comps now? :laugh:

Honestly, it is a bit crazy, dude. But I like it, haha.


----------



## req

lol nawww! 

the thing is, the more cone area you have, the less excursion you use for the same given loudness, thats why line arrays work all the way down to the low octaves with 2 or 3 inch speakers.

i was going to get new subs eventually, and why not put the largest driver that i can practically fit in the location? i mean, the cost being roughly the same for a pair of 12's versus 18's - why not? i want the low octaves to be effortless, i dont have a hell of a lot of power (600w for each) considering the RMS for the sub is ~700w each, and i plan to have the gains at minimum for these things and maybe even down on the processor too.

the best part though, is with large cone area like this, the dynamics are awesome because the cone barely has to move to push 20hz at reference level.

at least this is my thought process. i will let you know how it ends up - and whoever wants to check it out, of ever in the area, anyone is welcome 

and being able to get ~150db and win in the lanes with a SQ car would be rad hahahah!


----------



## Navy Chief

Andy,
As usual I love your thought process, I love bg drivers also. In fact I have been taking measurements all week to fit the new Dayton RSS460HO-4 18"http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472 and still keep my rear seat. Maybe I need to stop by next week and see what your doing over there, I am off most of next week on leave.


----------



## shawnk

Can't wait to hear your ride this summer... as well as your wife's car! Those door panels came out great!!!


----------



## mattyjman

wow... that's massive. you are definitely going to need horns to keep up with that sub stage


----------



## subwoofery

mattyjman said:


> wow... that's massive. you are definitely going to need horns to keep up with that sub stage


Shhhhhhhhhh... Don't say that... Else he's gonna buy 2 more 18s to keep up with the horns 

Kelvin


----------



## bassfromspace

There's nothing like the feel of big subwoofers. The bass is effortless.


----------



## req

hehe i am totally excited too 

on a side note while we are all waiting. here are some pictures of the home theater i am working on that the other two D4 flatlyne 18's are going to be part of. the cieling fan has been moved above the seating area and replaced with some track spotlight type thing, and the chandalier was removed totally.


































panasonic pt-ar100u 1080p projector
emotiva umc-1 reciever
emotiva upa-7 amplifier ([email protected] and about 60lbs)
bower and wilkins cdm7se towers
bower and wilkins cdm1 bookshelf (rears)
bower and wilkins cnt center
incriminator audio flatlyne 18 x 2 infinite baffle in the attic

all i have to do is get the projector mounted to the cieling (in process) and run some wires. yahoo


----------



## n_olympios

Nice! Is that a 2,35:1 screen? I love those speakers as well. I bought myself a pair of near mint 802 Matrix SIII's in December and have been looking for 805s and an HTM to complete the set, but it's proving near impossible to track down any at a decent price.


----------



## req

its 16:9, i watch lots of movies and stuff on widescreen 

B&W make some great stuff. i just spent the better part of 3 hours cleaning up my garage. wife works till 6 tomorrow, so i should have some time to build the enclosure for the SD-2 8's i need to review still. that will give me a little bass while im building my baffle!


----------



## n_olympios

req said:


> its 16:9, i watch lots of movies and stuff on widescreen


I was fooled by the pic with the image on the screen.

Those 3 pics look like each shows a different room btw, how did you manage that?


----------



## req

haha, i was testing the direction of the projector. one direction is the "dining room" and the other direction is toward the "living room". i have combined both areas and now its a "living movie theater room" haha. this week my mother in law & neice, both of my parents, my brother, and my cousin are all visiting... so i wanted the house in as serviceable condition as possible, so thats what i spent my entire weekend doing. running speaker wire, hdmi, cat5e, and power wire through the attic for the home theater, and cleaning everything. then i watched tron legacy last night.

this is the seating area









i also sold my IDMaxV3D4's to Ksin291. goodbye awesome speakers :'(


----------



## req

so i got some work done.

two pieces of 3\4" baltic birch and some hardware.



















some fitment tests *I AM NOT MOUNTING THEM INVERTED.*









































































template construction for fitment double check




























after a few cuts with the circular saw, i got here.




























the sun is going down and the next step is to router out the holes and then its just mounting the subs and any finishing i want to do.

i might end up putting some steel under the baffle if i feel it needs the reinforcement. we will see though.

*i plan on filling all the cracks at the end with filler and then black carpet the whole thing. it should fit like a glove.*


----------



## edouble101

CRAZY!!!!


----------



## quietfly

nice!!


----------



## strakele

Looking awesome Andy. I'm totally a fan of cone area vs excursion as well.

Any concern about the airspace (lack thereof) for a pair of 18s?


----------



## bbfoto

Nice, Andy! You have to admit that they do look sexy inverted like that! Talk about sitting in a pressure chamber! I wonder what a fast-reacting barometer would read while burpping those beasts?

And what are you doing to your front stage to keep up with them? 

Weird, but that spider looks tiny for those beasts.

Very nice work on the baffle, too.

Good Lawd, son! I think those might be just enough to achieve "effortless" bass.


----------



## req

Haha, I know it's crazy. 

Go big or go home. The front stage is really quite loud. And besides, I don't plan on having the subs overpowering anything, just being able to effortlessly play all bass is what I want


----------



## BowDown

Wow that's sick man. I hope there's enough airspace back there to present IB. But hell it's going to look awesome!


----------



## req

yea i dont think it should be an issue. it is easily 10+ cubes. plus the flaps are there that open to the enviornment. if anything i can make those guys bigger and scotch-guard grill cloth cover it. i do plan on it being able to get quite loud, but i doubt i will listen to is like that.

but i think 5hz should be reproduceable


----------



## BowDown

req said:


> but i think 5hz should be reproduceable


 :snacks: Nice.


----------



## captainobvious

req said:


> lol nawww!
> 
> the thing is, the more cone area you have, the less excursion you use for the same given loudness, thats why line arrays work all the way down to the low octaves with 2 or 3 inch speakers.
> 
> i was going to get new subs eventually, and why not put the largest driver that i can practically fit in the location? i mean, the cost being roughly the same for a pair of 12's versus 18's - why not? i want the low octaves to be effortless, i dont have a hell of a lot of power (600w for each) considering the RMS for the sub is ~700w each, and i plan to have the gains at minimum for these things and maybe even down on the processor too.
> 
> the best part though, is with large cone area like this, the dynamics are awesome because the cone barely has to move to push 20hz at reference level.
> 
> at least this is my thought process. i will let you know how it ends up - and whoever wants to check it out, of ever in the area, anyone is welcome
> 
> and being able to get ~150db and win in the lanes with a SQ car would be rad hahahah!


I get the logic for sure, and they look fuggin menacing. BUT, and this is the only but...Are these going to be done "IB" as well? Have you accounted for the VAS of these subs and how much airspace they will need ? You'll need a hole about the size of a monster truck tire to vent those suckers outside!  :laugh:
I mean, unless you were planning to try and make the back a pseudo-sealed enclosure. I'm not sure how well that will work though with how much air these beasts can move.

I'm looking forward to seeing and reading more 

EDIT: I should have read the other responses first. I still think these may end up with some peakiness because of the (lack) of airspace though. Guess you'll see when you get there. Are you adding additional bracing for the mounting ?


----------



## captainobvious

Looking at the Incriminator site, I don't see a VAS listing for the 18" flatlyne series. They should be significantly more than the 15" but here's a look at the 15" VAS:
118liters or 4.16 cubic feet. 
So 2 15's would be 8.32 feet vas. For IB, you should have at minimum 4 times vas, but recommended 10X.
Even at 4 times vas you're looking at 33+ cubic feet airspace needed...and that's for the 15's. The 18's could be over 50. 

Interested to see how they play out. Are you opposed to blowing out a some metal to vent these to the outside?


----------



## req

im not opposed to cutting metal anywhere back there. i may be able to be stealthy and cut below the spare tire, and make a "floating tire" rack out of some steel, that would give me a 20" hole hehe. but i am going to listen to it before i cut anything out.

if it is peaky, EQ goes a long way. nick at incriminator had the flatlyne 18's custom made IB for me. so i dont realy have T\S unless i buy\borrow a WT3.

whatever the case may be, im only looking for a few mm of travel from the cones. i figure a pair 18" cone moving 1mm is going to be the same as a 12" cone several mm's. keeping the coil in the center of the flux and barely moving = better sound quality 

cone area = king 

ill worry about the enclosure below after i get the top sealed. as far as bracing goes - i have thought about that, and i am considering using some steel tubing in the baffle - but my idea is a secret!  - and making some things happen. i may even extend some welding for my brackets and such. we will see!


i used to have a pair of IDQ15v2's in there, and they sounded awesome - but after 6 years of abuse, they were starting to show wear from the IB abuse lol. these are a little more stout than the IDQ's


----------



## Mic10is

eh...turtle pics were more exciting

nice, should be fun to listen when finished


----------



## req

lol, i agree. i never found a box turtle before. the week before that it was a baby opossum, and two weeks before that there was a tree frog on my pool. all kinds of critters back there.

thanks mic


----------



## jeeptian

Nice car ,great job !


----------



## quietfly

updates?


----------



## turbo5upra

Updates-Yes- the earthquake in Canada was caused by Andy breaking in the woofers.


----------



## quietfly

turbo5upra said:


> Updates-Yes- the earthquake in Canada was caused by Andy breaking in the woofers.



nice... i guess IB can play down to 5 hz.....:laugh:


----------



## req

so uh. turbo5supra (brian) was here for the weekend. he is driving back home now. *safe trip guys*

he lent a hand with my router and such, i get on lazy-kicks and it was real awesome having him around to motivate me 










then a cheap chineese router bit from home depot exploded on us. thankfully it went into the grass and not our legs our my car.










some test fitting



















they are alive! please excuse the horrid wiring, we had some phase issues and ended up bridging the amp at 2 ohms to solve the problem. its working great, besides the fact that my headliner is going crazy and higher volumes. the gain as less than 1\4, and the "flapper" in my trunk is super loud lol. i need to figure out how to mitigate that. the baffle does flex down the middle a little bit. i am devising a plan with some angle-iron and welding equipment to create some kind of brace for this whole thing. but we just need some break-in time now


----------



## BowDown

Could be getting more flapper noise due to pressure building under the baffle. May need to do some venting. 

Very cool though! 



Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.


----------



## highly

The flappers are easy to access from behind the taillight access panels. Mine have been replaced by 1" acoustic foam. It doesn't flap


----------



## tintbox

Nice work gents!


----------



## quality_sound

I have to take the rear bumper off to get to mine. They still flap.


----------



## req

highly said:


> The flappers are easy to access from behind the taillight access panels. Mine have been replaced by 1" acoustic foam. It doesn't flap


off to take a look into that. something along these lines are what i was thinking about on the drive back from breakfast. not sure what im going to do about the sunroof\headliner vibrations lol. its right where the headliner meets with the sunroof as its closed. if i fill it with (insert material here) then the sunroof cover wont open up. so maybe i can put some (insert material here) more aft, maybe wedge some foam in there to stop it oscillating so much.


----------



## highly

The flapper holder can be popped out from the inside and a piece of foam fitted in their place without dropping the bumper. It's not fun, but doable. The bumper comes off very easy with the rear end in the air - 4 torx per side and the two 10mm bolts under the back where it rolls under I think. It makes the job much easier that way. The taillights may need to come out though - I can't remember 

The headliner has a rolled lip at the spot you are talking about. If you were to drop the headliner I do believe you could fit a formed 1/4" steel rod in the roll and glass it in. Probably won't STOP the vibrations, but it should help. There isn't much dead space between the sunroof slider and the headliner, but I have two layers of fiberglass down the middle of mine, and the rear half is all glass as a result of the old 'amps in the roof' install. The same modification also bolts the headliner to the roof frame rails, so I don't have the same issue in mine. It's pretty rigid.

That's a lot of work to correct the problem, but it does work 

-T


----------



## req

yea, i just got out there to investigate. with my amps on the left, and the bracket poking through the tail light access hole on the right - i could barely get my arm down far enough to touch the flappers, let alone pop them out. it looks like ill have to lift the back and de-assemble it all in order to remove the flappers and install some foam.

blerg.

and it looks like ill have to take the headliner out and glass in some support like you said in order to stop it from flapping all over the place


----------



## quality_sound

Most VWs have the entire flapper assembly inserted from outside of the car so while you can reach it from the inside, you can only remove it from te outside. 

Luckily, VW bumper removal can be done by one person.


----------



## turbo5upra

Ib hair trix on the way... 

Car images very well- the stage is nice and flat about 8-10" off the dash.

12 hours to do 9 hours of driving... Damn holiday traffic! 

About 35-40 mins out!

Was a pleasure lending a hand! Next time stock up on enough corn for the whole crowd!


----------



## BigRed

Love this!!


----------



## captainobvious

Consider me definitely interested in your thoughts on the "sq" of those Flatlynes. A single 18" would be an even better option then the 15" I was going to run IB in the mazda...

Let me know bud! 


-Steve


----------



## req

So far I am very happy, after i fix the flapper and the roof I'll be back to awesome. It really only gets irritating with rolling deep bass, not really with kick drums. But bass is effortless now. Now i just gotta finish it all haha. 


Thank you brian!


----------



## turbo5upra

Welcome Andy....


----------



## req

i took a video of 20hz yesterday, and it gets pretty violent haha. these things can move some air.

i think i may have to seal up the car a bit more for hair tricks, but i might be able to pull it off hahaha. i cant post it at work, but ill see what i can do when i get home!

so a picture for you!


----------



## bbfoto

You could probably do the can or bottle trick with ease. But it looks like it's time to install 1"-thick Plexi windows all the way around.


----------



## req

haha. i dont think its that serious. the exterior roof flexes a bit... mostly its the headliner thats going crazy. i plan on doing what HIGHLY said and glassing in some kind of steel crossmember in the headliner at that spot to get it more rigidity. hopefully this week ill get the rear bumper off and mod the flappers.


----------



## req




----------



## BigRed

Pure sickness. Bravo


----------



## req

thank you sir


----------



## captainobvious

Yeah that's nutz Andy.

Do you hear much mechanical noise from these things? It's hard to tell from the video since I know the interior is going crazy with all that air moving around.


----------



## shawnk

I better be getting a demo of this beast! Only a couple months away now!!


----------



## goodstuff

I want to hear it....


----------



## req

to be honest, after i fix the roof buzz and the flapper buzz, most everything else is cool. and at normal listening levels on songs without rolling bass - stuff like rock and jazz and whatnot - only the roof makes noise. 

i dont know when\where the next show ill be at will be, and i still have lots to do in order to "finish" it so that it is pretty like the last baffle. i want to include some kind of grill with this one.

tomorrow is my birthday, i might be purchasing a welding machine haha. we will see


----------



## bertholomey

I need to post something.......666 replies 

Are you going to the Colinsville, VA show on the 8th?

MECA VA Show


----------



## bbfoto

Happy Birthday, Amigo! Have a great day and enjoy each year as much as possible. Each one goes by faster than the last one it seems! I'm approaching warp speed, LOL!

My mind is like Jeff Spicoli, but my body is feeling more like the evil Mr. Burns.


----------



## req

bertholomey said:


> I need to post something.......666 replies
> 
> Are you going to the Colinsville, VA show on the 8th?
> 
> MECA VA Show


yikes j... 4.5 hours :'(

you would think that living in virginia i wouldnt be so damn far from the shows.

London Bridge Rd to 3449 Virginia Ave, Collinsville, VA 24078 - Google Maps

i dont even know if i will have it all buttoned up by then 





bbfoto said:


> Happy Birthday, Amigo! Have a great day and enjoy each year as much as possible. Each one goes by faster than the last one it seems! I'm approaching warp speed, LOL!
> 
> My mind is like Jeff Spicoli, but my body is feeling more like the evil Mr. Burns.


yeah dude i hear ya. im 28 around lunch time, truth be told, im going to the auto hobby shop on base after a 1\2 day at work (worked 12 hour day on tuesday) and im going to put some parts into the GTi. some sensors, new accessory belt, dogbone engine mount and such. i think i have presents to open at home too


----------



## req

so my birthday was fun. i got a little too tipsy, but i had a DD so it was cool. four jager shots as i left the bar with like 40 people yelling drink drink drink and i passed out as soon as i got home haha.


anyway - it was pretty hot this weekend, so i played a little more battlefield3 (PC) than i should have 



















on saturday i was working on some engine stuff with my friend paul (mazdaspeed 3 there in the drive way) - i had a bad PCV a while back that i replaced along with the hoses - but it was allowing crank case gases and oil to leak back down the intake and was pooling at the bottom near the intercooler. this caused all kinds of issues and i was replacing the manifold absolute pressure sensor and my car was not happy - so i spent most of saturday figuring that out.

but i did drag myself out and i took the bumper off to locate those flappers. i had to take the tail lights out to get to four fasteners that were behind them (two per side). the flappers are in plastic casings that insert\remove from the outside - but you need to reach your arm through the inside to depress the plastic clips that hold them in. once they were out, i was able to seperate it into two pieces using the same clips and just remove the flapper rubber. i decided not to put in any foam or anything because there is a little cage type thing, and the whole area is enclosed inside the bumper - i couldnt even get my hand up near it with the bumper on. so i dont think there will be any issues.










this is the hole on the bottom. its like 3"x6" and there are two of them. there is plenty of room to blow them open further if i want to in the future - but for now i think this will suffice.










and here is a picture through the tail light. you can see two of the four bolts i used to affix the baffle bracket to my car here. its a nice 3 layer pinch weld - so its plenty strong here. and behind the tail light is my distribution block.


----------



## bbfoto

Haha, sounds like you did some proper celebrat'n!  

You're right, you're probably going to need to enlarge those holes 20x to be more effective...what's the rule? 2/3rds of Sd? But if it sounds good as it is why mess with it. 

And you've probably already buttoned it all up, but I would have suggested to put some window screen or other mesh grill into the openings to keep little critters out. They love these types of nooks and crannies for their nests. Wasps, mice, etc. It's unlikely you'll have a problem with it, but where I'm at I'd have a rattlesnake, ground squirrel, tarantula, cactus wren, or wasp's nest in there in no time.

I can't fit all of my vehicles in my garage at once so I had to come up with my own home-brew critter repellent to spray under the hood otherwise the critters chew on the vacuum hoses, spark plug wires, and even electrical wires looking for water in the summer heat (everyone out here in the wild west uses black drip-line tubing for watering their landscaping and gardens). I boiled a cup-full of crushed red pepper (the typical pizza topping stuff) in water for 10 minutes, let it cool and put it in a spray bottle. Every month or so I spray it all over the engine compartment. It works! But I can barely stand to be in the kitchen when it's boiling...GF came in and was wondering wth was wrong...crying my eyes out, haha.

Anyway, your install is looking great. Wish I had the opportunity to hear these beasts play clean, effortless bass.


----------



## req

yea i know what you mean. remember though - that the seats act as sort of a membrane, and there are quite large gaps that lead into the passenger and driver side quarter panels next to the back seats where all my wires go to, and up into the headliner as well. so its really quite a bit more space than just what you see in the trunk. i know that those 18's are pressurizing the area a bit because the flappers were going crazy at 20hz near xmax - but i really dont expect to ever do that with music 

there is a "cage" of sorts there - and i do plan on putting some kind of mesh over the whole thing - i just didnt have any handy at the time. i actually have to take the tail lights back off here in a few days, so when i do that ill have had some time to listen - and if i feel i need to make the holes bigger, i will do everything at once - but at this point (maybe 30 minutes of listening) i really dont think that it is making a huge difference.

i would like to put a woofer tester on it to see though... that would be cool.

when i was trying to get to the spot before, its inside the bumper really. i couldnt even find a way into that spot, its behind the rain gaurd and the bumper... but yeah, i agree - i will be putting some kind of protective thing over it here shortly


----------



## quality_sound

I would put SOMETHING over the vests, even if it's only a layer or two of pantyhose, or you're going to start wondering why you have spiderwebs in the interior.


----------



## req

yep. i am changing tail lights, so i gotta take it all back apart in a few days.

i just wanted to test it this week, and other than some tiny vibrations on rolling bass (rap, dubstep, techno, ect) it sounds awesome - and the cones barely even move with non-rolling bass tracks haha.


----------



## quietfly

DUBstep must be insane in there..... i love my some SQ(L)


----------



## req

alright everyone. two good points of news.

i did some work with the cabin air vents.





































*this is where most of the backwave will get killed - it goes into the rear passenger arm rest cavity*










new tail lights. i was trying to remove the RH side, and there is a stupid stud instead of a bolt and it rusted out inside the rubber washer that it plugs into, and basically it broke while i was getting it off. thats why i needed to get the tail lights back off this week. kind of a bummer, but i got these HELLA replacements for $80.










we went to walmart today and picked these two items up. $0.33 for a pair of panty hose that are NYLON and NOT COTTON, and some scotch guard silicon weatherproofing to keep the water\moisture off.










wrapped and ready for hydrophobic coating.










sprayed and installed.










both sides










new versus old tail lights




















and thats that. i went to the collinsville virginia meca show on saturday with navychief (mark) and i met up with bertholomey (jason) and we hung out and had lunch at this awesome diner called fender's.

i also just got back from a harbor freight parking lot sale, and scored a 110vac chicago electric 90 am welder for $89. now i should be able to finish up the baffle for the flatlynes later this week.

not a bad deal. i have a cool idea for the baffle, i hope it works out 

so stay tuned.


----------



## quality_sound

Glad you kept something over the vents. 
I'm not looking forward to doing the same thing.


----------



## bbfoto

Nice work, Andy. I'll be interested to see how you make out with that welder, too. Oh, and I noticed that you obscured your license plate in the last pic, but there's a clear shot of it in your first pic.


----------



## req

i know lol. i just saw the options in google to edit the pictures and i wanted to see what it could do - but there are no blur or local area effects. only over-all effects and text.

oh well.



the subs are out right now - and hopefully i can get over to lowes\home depot and pick up some 3\4" steel tubing and bust the welder out


----------



## bbfoto

RANDOM THOUGHT...I think you need to incorporate a "water feature" into your install. Would be interesting to see what your subs would do, LOL:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uENITui5_jU&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## req

also, i got a snapshot of two cool SQ cars over the weekend


----------



## bertholomey

A little 'en and a big 'en


----------



## req

i did some stuff today. i did not take pictures because its a surprise. sorry


----------



## n_olympios

Tease!


----------



## req

did some things.


----------



## quietfly

nice.... so when are you going to horn load those 18's


----------



## turbo5upra

How'd that scion sound????


----------



## req

have to tweak some stuff. working at it right now. 


what scion brian?


----------



## Starlet-SQ

guess he ment the subaru brz


----------



## req

oooooh yea lol. brian likes jokes that nobody gets 

it did sound real nice!! jason always has great sounding jazzy and funky music to listen to. it was very enjoyable.


----------



## req

pics of my buddy jones welding. i couldnt take pics while i welded, so i took pics while he welded lol.

this thing is super ****in strong lol. i dont think it will be flexing at all.


----------



## turbo5upra

Starlet-SQ said:


> guess he ment the subaru brz


I was teasing Jason.


----------



## bertholomey

You are dead to me.


----------



## bertholomey

You are dead to me.


----------



## turbo5upra

:0


----------



## bertholomey

Of course, DIYMA picks that post to duplicate  love my Yeti!


----------



## req

LOL

and i spoke with brian - i will be upping the voltage and wire feed when i finish the welding tomorrow to see if that helps get prettier welds 

i am still a super newbie at it! my third time


----------



## turbo5upra

Flux core welds can look pretty good- you're looking for the "roll of dimes" look with that also. I would say high temp setting with a medium wire speed...


----------



## turbo5upra

Guy has a hard time narrating but- be does a decent job... YouTube


----------



## req

yup. im gonna go try some of that stuff. 

wire feed -> 5
heat -> max


----------



## benny

I wouldn't be upping the heat with that much spatter.


----------



## highly

Bring the torch closer to the workpiece. The breeze is blowing the shielding gas created by the flux away from the weld faster than the bead forms so you end up with the lumpy welds and *lots* of spatter. If you can keep the free end of welding wire really short and close to the part, the nozzle will help hold the shielding gas close to the arc and it will look much better. And I agree, up the feedrate first. Looks like the wire was a little slow for your rate of travel.

Try it on a scrap piece and you will see what I mean 

-T


----------



## req

i dont have gas.

i only have flux core welder and i have a high and a low heat setting.

it was $80 :'(

upping the feed rate helped a lot, but avoiding splatter with this welder is not going to happen.










drilled and tapped. cleaned up the welds as best i could. painting it with rust-inhibitor now.


----------



## turbo5upra

Mig and arc you are going to get spatter- tig not so much.


----------



## req

i am going to fill all the gaps with fiber-glass-body-filler. and i am going to get it finished and looking snazzy - but there is a small get together locally tomorrow that i am attending, so i wanted to give the guys a chance to listen to it before i go further with it.

this is just a temp setup so i can demo it tomorrow. with this, there is 3\4 less flex than there was before!


----------



## tintbox

Nice. Nothing wrong with a little cone surface!


----------



## turbo5upra

tintbox said:


> Nice. Nothing wrong with a little cone surface!


I think he's compensating for something


----------



## BowDown

turbo5upra said:


> Mig and arc you are going to get spatter- tig not so much.


Not if you're doing it right. Lol. 



Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.


----------



## IBcivic

With flux core, anti-spatter spray is your best friend.

Lincoln Electric Anti Spatter Non-Stick Spray-KH505 at The Home Depot


----------



## AccordUno

req said:


> i dont have gas.
> 
> i only have flux core welder and i have a high and a low heat setting.
> 
> it was $80 :'(
> 
> upping the feed rate helped a lot, but avoiding splatter with this welder is not going to happen.


I have the same welder bro, so I feel your pain.. But upping the speed and using lower heat worked for me. BTW

<---first time welding and now I'm trying to find stuff to build where I can use it in my installs..


----------



## req

hah same here lol! welding is fun tho.

i have read that spraying the part with WD-40 will work as anti-spatter because it stops the spatter from sticking to the workpiece as its spattering. it does not STOP the spatter, just cools\protects the work and stops the spatter blobs from sticking.

now that i put the subs in, i have some squeak-finding to do. there is something thats bugging me on the driver side back there, but i cant find it when im in the front seat. i need to play some tones and really get back there and investigate ... i have a bad feeiling that the hatch-door is a culprit. :'(


----------



## GLN305

Two words.....Jurassic Lunch


----------



## [email protected]

Wd40 does work as anti splatter. I keep our strong-arm table sprayed down with it and the splatter wipes right off..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## req

[email protected] said:


> Wd40 does work as anti splatter. I keep our strong-arm table sprayed down with it and the splatter wipes right off..
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


awesome! thanks j0ey!!


----------



## goodstuff

Sub'd. Inspired to learn how to weld now.


----------



## turbo5upra

goodstuff said:


> Sub'd. Inspired to learn how to weld now.


It's all about getting good penetration.


----------



## turbo5upra

Which you may want to ride the bench on this one goodstuff- at least from what bowdown has said.


----------



## minbari

turbo5upra said:


> It's all about getting good penetration.


thats what she said!


----------



## req

bazinga.


----------



## GLN305

Forgot to add, now that I am in the area, I have a Lincoln Weldpack MIG flux core welder and a few years of practice in case you need any welding done or access to a welder.


----------



## [email protected]

I was flipping through some of your pictures being jealous that I can't have big speakers and noticed you are running your 200.4 at 1ohm? Any heat issues or shutting down problems? Does it seem pretty stable? We have done those at 2ohm but not 1..?


----------



## req

the manual says its stable at 1 ohm per channel and 2 ohm bridge with a musical load. (edit - it did when i installed these, it looks different then when i first installed it)

http://www.mosconi-system.it/product/as200-4/

(*) VERY IMPORTANT NOTE - READ CAREFULLY
4 Ohm ST or 8 Ohm BTL – CONTINUOUS SINEWAVE SIGNAL – pure resistive load or speaker load
2 Ohm ST or 4 Ohm BTL – MUSICAL SIGNAL – pure resistive load or speaker load
1 Ohm ST or 2 Ohm BTL – MUSICAL SIGNAL – speaker load only

Target powers: 
200 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm
320 Watt per channel @ 2 Ohm
640 Watt BTL mode @ 4 Ohm
950 Watt BTL mode @ 2 Ohm

so far i have no had any problems, they do get warm - thats for sure - but the gain is almost at zero j0ey. these amps are beasts. i have never even noticed the fans kicking on yet. do you know when they are supposed to activate?

GLN305 - ill let you know if i do anything more. i think the welding is just about done for this portion of the install though. lots of grinding to finish it up, but i am a newb with a cheap welder!


----------



## req

j0ey, this one is for you.


----------



## [email protected]nd

Ah, I thought you were at 1 ohm bridged.. Thanks! I think the fans come on when they need to?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## req

Ah gotcha, nope 2 ohm bridged on channels 3/4. I mean I have had the amps for over a year, and I have never seen or heard them come on one time - and I have had them running for 9 hour drives and to/from shows hours away. I wonder what temperatures the fans are supposed to come on at...


----------



## shawnk

req said:


> Ah gotcha, nope 2 ohm bridged on channels 3/4. I mean I have had the amps for over a year, and I have never seen or heard them come on one time - and I have had them running for 9 hour drives and to/from shows hours away. I wonder what temperatures the fans are supposed to come on at...


Sounds like it's time for a constant sinewave test


----------



## req

I do have some o-scopes at work haha


----------



## req

im so sweaty right now.



















i have done some sanding and more filling. using a rasp to get the shape down first is a million times easier. i highly suggest that.

it was super hot out today. im just getting to the point where i should carpet it but i dont have enough to wrap the whole thing. so for now, the subs will go back in as a sanded ugly baffle, and i will have to finish it another day. 

pottsville, pa MECA show on sunday at 10am.

you should come.


----------



## turbo5upra

Do I bring you carpet?


----------



## req




----------



## GLN305

Looks great! Did it seem to reduce the flex any or have you had a chance to listen?




req said:


>


----------



## req

I have not had a chance. By the time I got it installed the wife was home and I was physically drained because of the temperature and humidity yesterday. We can play with everything on Sunday


----------



## captainobvious

Damn. That's coming along really nicely Andy!


----------



## turbo5upra

See it soon!


----------



## bassfromspace

Are your 4's able to keep up with the 18's?


----------



## GLN305

Yes they are, his front stage is quite capable and sounds great doing it!



bassfromspace said:


> Are your 4's able to keep up with the 18's?


----------



## req

thanks glen 

i need to do a lot of EQ work for the subs. they are not where id like them to be yet 

i just need time, i have been working on a house project of re-surfacing the fireplace :\


----------



## Hanatsu

Been watching your build for a while, don't believe I commented anything yet though.

Awesome build, I really like your solution for the subs in the trunk. IB in this type of car is pretty uncommon, especially monsters like that heh


----------



## [email protected]

So, when are you drivin' this thing to Cali so I can hear it?

Any chance you are going to the SBN show next year????


----------



## req

thank you Hanatsu. your build i have been taking notes on as well. i have a VERY nifty idea for my midbass drivers - everyone comments on how awesome sealed enclosures (or ported enclosures) are for the anarchies - so i have thought of a way to make that a reality without too much work i think. but we will see if it works haha.

haha joey. i take pride in that comment from you sir! some of the stuff you and Bing have been doing are simply amazing. i wish i had the talent, space, tools, and time to do the things you are doing to those cars out west. i almost got to meet Bing in 2011, but sadly i had moved back to NY the month prior to him visiting Virginia, and that was a bummer. i have since moved BACK to VA beach, and if either of you are ever on the east coast for any reason, please let me know i would love to shoot the **** with you guys. i really look up to you two and look at every thing you guys post on here. i dont have any plans on competing this year or in the near future because i just bought a house and the wife and I are trying to keep our expenditures down.

i have heard nothing (and seen pictures) but awesome stuff about SBN and i would LOVE to attend that show. it is actually a plausible vacation to be honest. just gotta plan it out in advance.

thank you all for the kind words. it really does motivate me to keep moving forward! 

i really need to get out there and tear into it... but this weekend TintBox and Turbo5Supra are coming to visit, and we are going to knock out a street or mod street install for TintBox's new scion xB over the weekend. i am fairly certain there will be pictures and things of happenings.


----------



## tintbox

It's going to be epic!


----------



## Rokusek

Andy, After this weekend its all game on to tear into your car, I wont have anymore obligations for motor builds anytime soon. My car is running healthy so its time to do some more much needed work on that beautiful VW!!!

I wish I could be around this weekend to help you guys out durring the day but will only be around for drinks in the evening!

-PJ


----------



## GLN305

I built some sealed kicks for my Anarchies, so if you wanna hear them we can meet up. I would like to come help with the xB if you guys will have me. Let me know when and where and I'll be there.





req said:


> thank you Hanatsu. your build i have been taking notes on as well. i have a VERY nifty idea for my midbass drivers - everyone comments on how awesome sealed enclosures (or ported enclosures) are for the anarchies - so i have thought of a way to make that a reality without too much work i think. but we will see if it works haha.
> 
> haha joey. i take pride in that comment from you sir! some of the stuff you and Bing have been doing are simply amazing. i wish i had the talent, space, tools, and time to do the things you are doing to those cars out west. i almost got to meet Bing in 2011, but sadly i had moved back to NY the month prior to him visiting Virginia, and that was a bummer. i have since moved BACK to VA beach, and if either of you are ever on the east coast for any reason, please let me know i would love to shoot the **** with you guys. i really look up to you two and look at every thing you guys post on here. i dont have any plans on competing this year or in the near future because i just bought a house and the wife and I are trying to keep our expenditures down.
> 
> i have heard nothing (and seen pictures) but awesome stuff about SBN and i would LOVE to attend that show. it is actually a plausible vacation to be honest. just gotta plan it out in advance.
> 
> thank you all for the kind words. it really does motivate me to keep moving forward!
> 
> i really need to get out there and tear into it... but this weekend TintBox and Turbo5Supra are coming to visit, and we are going to knock out a street or mod street install for TintBox's new scion xB over the weekend. i am fairly certain there will be pictures and things of happenings.


----------



## turbo5upra

You're invited tomorrow morning glen! Andy's house!


----------



## req

texted you my address


----------



## GLN305

req said:


> texted you my address


Thanks! Had tons of trouble sleeping last night and didn't pass out until 5am, so I will have to come by tomorrow. Cya then!


----------



## Navy Chief

Glenn and I will be there tomorrow with some American trucks to break up that sea of Import cars you have over there. What time are you guys getting started tomorrow.


----------



## GLN305

Andy told me they wanna get started around 7am, I plan on getting up around 6 and making my way there.




Navy Chief said:


> Glenn and I will be there tomorrow with some American trucks to break up that sea of Import cars you have over there. What time are you guys getting started tomorrow.


----------



## Navy Chief

GLN305 said:


> Andy told me they wanna get started around 7am, I plan on getting up around 6 and making my way there.


I might get there by noon, today was a loooong day.


----------



## GLN305

Navy Chief said:


> I might get there by noon, today was a loooong day.


Looking like sleep may evade me again, I might get there without sleep LOL


----------



## GLN305

Looks like I'm the only one awake! LOL


----------



## turbo5upra

Sorry! We are awake- just weren't moving yet!


----------



## GLN305

How did everything go? I came home and passed out...insomnia sucks.




turbo5upra said:


> Sorry! We are awake- just weren't moving yet!


----------



## JayinMI

So you drove all the way there, then turned around and went home? Insomnia sucks.

Jay


----------



## GLN305

Well, drove there and waited in the truck for an hour and started falling asleep so decided it would probably be good idea if I just went home and slept. I only had Andy's number and was waiting for him to return my text, but he had a bad night sleep too and was still asleep. It's really not a big deal, I was just gonna offer a hand and company, wasn't for or about me at all. I hope the install went well and can't wait to see some pics.



JayinMI said:


> So you drove all the way there, then turned around and went home? Insomnia sucks.
> 
> Jay


----------



## turbo5upra

Can't really do pics from my phone all that easy but... Impressive for a 2 way- it stages really well... That and 300 on tap for the mids with 150 on each tweeter should help make it fun!


----------



## JayinMI

Build thread! Build thread! Build thread! Build thread! lol

Jay


----------



## turbo5upra

Lol- more pics than one could ever want... On a memory stick


----------



## GLN305

Can't wait to check out the pics and then see and hear in person. I almost bought an 2nd xB after owning a first gen xB. I love those little boxes.


----------



## tintbox

I will update my build log in the next day or two. Long weekend with good friends and better memories. Sorry we missed ya today.


----------



## GLN305

Excited to see the build and more excited to hear it.



tintbox said:


> I will update my build log in the next day or two. Long weekend with good friends and better memories. Sorry we missed ya today.


----------



## req

yeah glenn, i was so bummed out that i was sleeping. the crappy part is that i did wake up around that time but it was just for a roll over. i told tintbox (mike) and turbo5supra (brian) to wake me up when they got moving, and i should have given you brians number just in case - but i didnt think about it until it was too late. 

we basically did the entire install in the two-day span. our origional ideas didnt pan out because the space did not permit what we had wanted to do under the back seat bench. what will end up being done is a fiberglass tub to push the subs as low as possible in the rear tirewell so the stock floor can still fit above them, and hopefully we can fit all three amps forward of the sub box and aft of the back seat. it looks like there should be room but it all depends on how far we can scoot the sub box back and retain the airspace we want.

this car is shooting for a MECA STREET install. so we had design limitations as per the rule book.

the front stage went in without much of a hitch. the tech flex and wiring detials took us extra time. i made a plastic engine fuse mount for his JL audio ANL fuse block, navychief put together a nice 0awg battery ground together with some spare wire i had, turbo5supra and i made some real nice birch plywood baffles for the 6.5 mid, turbo5supra installed the tweeters flush in the sail panels, tintbox wired the amp rack from his old scion that happened to fit in the trunk of the new one, we cut the ends off the sub box that was in his old xB and shortened it by .5 inches so it fit in the hatch of his new xB and i carpeted it, we all helped with tech flex and wire install and routing. we did a lot of stuff - and if we had another day i think we would have done the fiberglass stuff too.

that will be for another day.

overall? it actually stages and sounds really good for a quick initial tune and all. i was acutally impressed


----------



## GLN305

Glad to hear it call came together well. I am always up to help so just let me know and I will show up. DIYMA has made this move so much easier for me, I got to meet some local people right away and feel welcome.



req said:


> yeah glenn, i was so bummed out that i was sleeping. the crappy part is that i did wake up around that time but it was just for a roll over. i told tintbox (mike) and turbo5supra (brian) to wake me up when they got moving, and i should have given you brians number just in case - but i didnt think about it until it was too late.
> 
> we basically did the entire install in the two-day span. our origional ideas didnt pan out because the space did not permit what we had wanted to do under the back seat bench. what will end up being done is a fiberglass tub to push the subs as low as possible in the rear tirewell so the stock floor can still fit above them, and hopefully we can fit all three amps forward of the sub box and aft of the back seat. it looks like there should be room but it all depends on how far we can scoot the sub box back and retain the airspace we want.
> 
> this car is shooting for a MECA STREET install. so we had design limitations as per the rule book.
> 
> the front stage went in without much of a hitch. the tech flex and wiring detials took us extra time. i made a plastic engine fuse mount for his JL audio ANL fuse block, navychief put together a nice 0awg battery ground together with some spare wire i had, turbo5supra and i made some real nice birch plywood baffles for the 6.5 mid, turbo5supra installed the tweeters flush in the sail panels, tintbox wired the amp rack from his old scion that happened to fit in the trunk of the new one, we cut the ends off the sub box that was in his old xB and shortened it by .5 inches so it fit in the hatch of his new xB and i carpeted it, we all helped with tech flex and wire install and routing. we did a lot of stuff - and if we had another day i think we would have done the fiberglass stuff too.
> 
> that will be for another day.
> 
> overall? it actually stages and sounds really good for a quick initial tune and all. i was acutally impressed


----------



## quickaudi07

Req, looks like you had crap load of fun building that 1.8T, I'm just surprised that that little turbo could keep up with all of this car audio stuff..... I beat the living crap out of my 2.0T A4, and looks like I might need a new turbo soon lol maybe K04 

BTW install looks good, and subs are crazy big!


----------



## req

thanks sir  it has been a long road.


this post is kind of a re-wind. i think somewhere along the way the pictures of the door speaker and tweeter install were un-linked. so here is a recap of what i did and how i did it. i have had like 10 PM's asking for more details on this.

full disclosure (aka bikinpunk) 



req said:


> tonsofpeople said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could you send me a link to your door speaker and tweeter install?
> 
> 
> 
> its really not that complicated
> 
> i used the vifa neo XT25 with the small flange on parts express - and i removed the flange.
> 
> then i took the sail panels off and took the OEM tweeter out.
> 
> then i popped out the metal grill that sits in front of the OEM tweeter.
> 
> being careful to leave the areas that the grill snaps into and that friction clip intact, i used a dremel to cut out the extra material from the sail panel behind where the grill goes.
> 
> then i used Duct Seal (a sticky putty type stuff found in bricks at home depot\lowes in the electrical isle with the zip ties, crimp connectors, and stuff) i pushed the tweeter back into the hole for the side view mirrors, aimed up toward the sunroof in the middle of the roof.
> 
> i plan on changing the aiming to more on-axis by cutting some of the metal out carefully though. i think the tweeter is a bit low in this configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the door speakers were a similar affair.
> 
> i used fiberglass to make a base mold of the door metal around the speaker area. then i found three good locations to put bolts through toward the edges. between the door panel and this fiberglass form, i used a lot of afhesive foam gasket for a buffer as well. it was then bolted to the door panel. i used WELL NUTS and stainless steel hardware with a drop of loctite. *DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WELL NUT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after it was trimmed (including the hole for the magnet) i cut two speaker baffles. one for the speaker to mount to, and one that is the thickness of the speker+excursion to use as a spacer. then i screwed these together temporarially. the spacer is to make sure the speaker and the excursion of the speaker will not hit anything - i added a few milimeters of clearance for the speaker im installing (exodus anarchy, almost 4" deep)
> 
> then i cut any extra plastic ribs and crap out of the bottom corner of the door panel with the dremel that might get in the way.
> 
> then i removed the speaker grill from the door panel by carefully removing the plastic "rivet" melted holes (4 of them) around the grill.
> 
> then i clamped the baffle+spacer (baffle-spacer-door panel) to the inside of the door panel making sure the hole for the baffle was perfectly lined up with the hole for the grill on the door panel. then i installed the door.
> 
> working through the grill opening, i used wooden dowels and CA glue to fix the baffle to the fiberlgass mold that was bolted to the car.
> 
> after i had enough support, i removed the clamps holding the baffle to the door, and uninstalled the door.
> 
> i removed the fiberglass form from the door with the baffle attached via dowels+ca glue.
> 
> i removed the spacer from the baffle.
> 
> i stretched some very stretchy cloth (not fleece) over the whole thing *MAKING SURE THE SCREW\BOLT HOLES WERE NOT COVERED - so they remained on the 'outside' of the form, and fiberglassed it closed. a few layers of chop mat went down for structure support.
> 
> i removed some of the dowels from the inside so the speaker fit - and put some reinforcement on the inside. i used fiberglass reinforced body filler, and the entire structure was at least 1" thick and heavy.
> 
> i then installed the finished fiberglass adapter to the car, and then i used 1~2lbs of duct seal all over the entire fiberglass form (and inside the thing) to acoustically seal and add as much mass to the speaker location to absorb vibration energy as possible. this coupled with proper dampening of the rest of the door.
> 
> i installed the speaker with coarse stainless cap head screws (i use plywood for all my baffles due to its built in moisture resistance and ability to accept a screw\thread without stripping - i do NOT use MDF)
> 
> now i have a great midbass speaker with as much depth as i can possibly fit behind the OEM panel.
Click to expand...


----------



## shawnk

Ok so I'm gonna bump this thread for two reasons 

1st: I recently had the opportunity to meet Andy and his wife Carly during our vacation trip. During that time Andy gave me a nice demo and walk through of the V-dub which was fantastic since I was quite eager to see this beast first hand 

2nd: Well quite frankly this build is freak'n sweet!  Andy, I just went back through the whole build log over the past two days and it really puts a great perspective on the install. There are so many nifty and unique things you have accomplished with the car that are just super cool! I'm greatful that I was able to have a demo!

So I have to say... the 18's really do sound great! I have to admit that I was expecting (at least a little) that the subs would be boomy and/or overwhelming compared to the rest of the system, but I was pleasantly surprised with smooth, articulate, and well transitioned low frequency bliss from the behemoth drivers. Nice execution and tuning Andy 

Thanks again for the visit bro! Tell Carly we said hi! We're looking foward to the move and the ability to hang out more than once a year.


----------



## req

yeah dude! glad we were able to meet up for sure.

i have yet to post in your thread! ill get to it 

pics of our two cars to proove it!

















i recently went to the iasca\meca show at tintworx west of washington DC in warrenton virginia. it was tintbox's show, and i was meeting up with a few of the guys i was on team DIYMA with. chefhow, turbo5supra, tintbox, and mic10is. a few of us met up at tintbox's house on saturday and we did a tuning marathon until like 2 am!!

i am happy to say that the subs got even more dialed in than they were before. i was able to carpet the sub baffle, so it is at least presentable now, and complete the wiring too. i really want to get my helix p-dsp analog volume knobs working properly so that i can adjust the bass on the fly - in my opinion there are just some songs out there that i like with more heavy bass.

oh yea! i also was able to find out the cause of that weird vibration in the trunk - it ended up being the door to my distrobution block was tapping on the steel bracket for the sub baffle! whenever i would open the hatch, the noise would go away. whenever i would fold the seats to get under there, the noise would go away. turns out that there is quite a bit of pressure - i opened the seats a little (playing a 20hz sine wave at 75% volume) and my shirt was moving quite a bit - and the noise would slowly go away as the seat folded! tintbox popped the trunk and tapped on the door and we found the noise! makes me so freggin happy 

i really just want to get a new screen, put windows 8 on the carpc, and finalize the install - but i know its never going to be finished lol.



























its funny, i didnt take any pictures of the carpeted sub baffle lol


----------



## goodstuff

It sounds awesome req. Much better than what I ever thought two 18's could sound like.


----------



## req

thanks mike 

funny part is they only move a few milimeters to get there even on LOW stuff. i always say, if you can fit the cone area - then use it ^_^


----------



## shawnk

Haha! Who are those two Geeks in shadows!?


----------



## quickaudi07

its funny, i didnt take any pictures of the carpeted sub baffle lol [/QUOTE]


Looks like H800 setup


----------



## req

sure is 

tintbox just put it in after using a mosconi 6to8 and this was the first real tuning session.


----------



## req

not that people look here anymore...

but i decided the DVD slot needed a backlight, and i needed to re-set the LCD in the bezel due to cold weather warping it SO slightly that it had an intermittent touch screen problem where the bezel touched the corner of the touch panel. so while i had the whole dash apart i decided to re-paint the bezel due to filler gas-out bubbles after the first plastidip job and install some LED's

pictures of stuff and things.














































sorry for blurryness.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

I still look here. But I dunno, too many more blurry photos like that and I may go look elsewhere


----------



## Hanatsu

Love that center console 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


----------



## req

thanks guys. ill get some better pictures of the car. maybe ill take a new video.

im working on something REAL cool to controll the PC a little easier, but it might require some custom programming... im also working on finding a LCD that supports at least 1028x768 resolution that fits in the same form factor (or close to) what ive got now. im willing to build an entire new bezel if i have to - but i am really wanting to put windows 8 on this PC for the user interface simplicities - and so my DSP software can run fullscreen.

so im on the look-out for a capitance touch screen that works with windows 8 and is between 7~9 inches. 

this is the screen i *WANT* to buy, but i have been waiting forever for them to finish manufacturing them.

7 inch 1280×800 capacitive multi-touch LCD | Chalkboard Electronics

i may change some other things up with the speaker install - but i dont know yet. its a secret, and we will have to see i suppose lol.


----------



## quietfly

looks nice, and i still look here when it tells me there are updates


----------



## PteDefcon

Just finished reading this build thread and my jaw will not stop dropping! Thoroughly impressed. This gives me lots of ideas for my MK4 TDI . May be bugging you in the future haha. Keep up the stellar work.


----------



## jpeezy

love the 18's,crazy, I did an install probably 14-15 years ago in a customers VW Sirocco it was an all pioneer system,(very budget system),with two IB pioneer"free-air" 12's, as a joke he took it to spring break nationals, just to see what it would do. I get a call from the guys at IASCA asking me where this guy is, I'm like "why?" ,well we have a first place trophy for SQ waiting for him!it was his first contest ever. If it works, use it! thanks for sharing.


----------



## req

haha nice! IB for the win 

i appreciate the kind words fellas. i get pm's at least once a week asking for details on something, im always happy to awnser any questions that i can!

the car is in the shop right now. just got this kit for the tie-rods (failed inspection), control arms, and bushings.

Volkswagen Golf IV 1.8T Suspension Refresh Kits ES#259954 Suspension Refresh Kit - Stage 3 - 1J0498012











hopefully they can get the alignment and re-inspection done by today ... ill be upset if i have to drive to north carolina for the meet & greet with a failed inspection and non-aligned front end... :worried:

i was hoping to get some tuning done before tomrrow lol.


----------



## highly

When your trailing arm starts clunking LMK. I have the tool. The job is a PITA with it - forget doing it without.


----------



## req

how do you know the trailing arm is going bad? thats the bar between the two rear tires, instead of a control arm - its a trailing arm - it is not independant suspension.

correct?


got the car back and alls well. inspected and aligned.

wow this looks garbage in this picture...


----------



## Rokusek

Looking good! Glad I could be of some assistance. 

-PJ


----------



## SUX 2BU

req said:


>


Wow, it's been since the 80's that I've seen a 'parcel shelf' subwoofer install in a hatchback, let alone with 2 heavy duty 18's! How well does that baffle and the seats seal that area? Do you have any chuffing noise? An 18 can move a serious amount of air.


----------



## req

yeah lol. im getting some chuffing in the rear corner of the plastic bit that goes on the hatch. i have another one that is black. i plan on taking the grey one down and 'deadening' the inside of it before it goes back on and sealing the gaps a bit better. its almost like the back hatch is compressing\expanding the gasket lol. i need to open up some more 'vents' in the floor to relieve some pressure 

thanks for the kind words everyone. i often get frustrated with stuff, and it is very humbling to know sharing this with you all is appreciated


----------



## quickaudi07

req said:


> not that people look here anymore...
> 
> but i decided the DVD slot needed a backlight, and i needed to re-set the LCD in the bezel due to cold weather warping it SO slightly that it had an intermittent touch screen problem where the bezel touched the corner of the touch panel. so while i had the whole dash apart i decided to re-paint the bezel due to filler gas-out bubbles after the first plastidip job and install some LED's
> 
> pictures of stuff and things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for blurryness.


HAHAHAHHA you got the Samusng Watch how you like that ??? I got one as well, have you done anything with yet ? "_"


----------



## req

my buddies watch. not mine


----------



## Notloudenuf

I got a chance to listen to this setup this past weekend. The last time I heard req's car it had horns, ID8s in the doors and IDMax 15's (?) It sounded really good back then.

This time I heard it was even better. I liked the fact that I didn't kick any speakers when I got into the car. I think req probably liked that fact too. :\ The midrange and tweeter locations disappear into the car. The sub bass is great. For so long I never thought that IB in a hatchback was even possible. Well it is, and it's great.
Thanks for the demo. The carPC is super sweet as well!


----------



## req

thank you sir 

i really have work to do on the tune though. ever since finals i have not spent a good amount of time tweaking - and i really need to do a scratch tune. 


i got really good feedback from everyone about the carPC - everyone thought it worked well - jason gave me some weird looks - but he was able to figure it out haha.

pictures.


----------



## bertholomey

req said:


> thank you sir
> 
> i really have work to do on the tune though. ever since finals i have not spent a good amount of time tweaking - and i really need to do a scratch tune.
> 
> 
> i got really good feedback from everyone about the carPC - everyone thought it worked well - jason gave me some weird looks - but he was able to figure it out haha.


......Old Dog......New Tech......


----------



## GLN305

I gotta get down to VB and listen to your car now. It's been a while since I last heard it!


----------



## yogegoy

req said:


> haha nice! IB for the win
> the car is in the shop right now. just got this kit for the tie-rods (failed inspection), control arms, and bushings.
> 
> Volkswagen Golf IV 1.8T Suspension Refresh Kits ES#259954 Suspension Refresh Kit - Stage 3 - 1J0498012


Tubular MK4 GTI IDF Control Arms with Spherical Bearings.


----------



## n_olympios

That looks way off-center there.


----------



## highly

n_olympios said:


> That looks way off-center there.


Probably the .5 degree caster change inherent in these arms. For $525, an awfully pricy upgrade for _street _cars not on air or super low static (where the lowered ride height binds the factory rear rubber bushing).


----------



## yogegoy

n_olympios said:


> That looks way off-center there.


It's because nothing is holding the front bearing on top of front bushing and slides off to one side.


----------



## req

right on. if i ever do bags ill look into this.

at this point though, the reason why i got the kit was because all together it was just slightly more than buying it ala-carte.


thanks for the pictures though. that looks super clean.


----------



## SouthSyde

Car looks greatttt man!


----------



## req

Thanks dude!

A little update. I ordered a new LCD. I've been trying to buy this screen for like a year. They have been constantly out of stock so I took the initiative and contracted them a while back. They finally got to me and I placed the order this morning.

7 inch lcd


----------



## Hanatsu

Nice display. Perhaps I'll attempt a carpc install next time. I like your setup 

Btw.. how do you like your Faitals?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


----------



## quietfly

lol and they are out of stock again...


----------



## req

Hanatsu said:


> Nice display. Perhaps I'll attempt a carpc install next time. I like your setup
> 
> Btw.. how do you like your Faitals?
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 3 via Tapatalk.


so far i like them a lot. i only wish that my left hand stage was higher because i get a rainbow from some frequencies. they work as advertised i think. i have not done any kind of testing like you or erin on my speakers - nor am i anywhere near as good as finding out what i need\should tune like maybe people, but the new 311 album dropped today, and it sounds rad lol.

maybe ill take a video of the operation of my carpc...


----------



## Hanatsu

req said:


> so far i like them a lot. i only wish that my left hand stage was higher because i get a rainbow from some frequencies. they work as advertised i think. i have not done any kind of testing like you or erin on my speakers - nor am i anywhere near as good as finding out what i need\should tune like maybe people, but the new 311 album dropped today, and it sounds rad lol.
> 
> maybe ill take a video of the operation of my carpc...


I might order a few, can post the tests for you then, heh


----------



## capea4

Question for you,
It appears in one of your pics that you have a wilwood front break kit, and on it there are springs to aid the pads to return. Any info on this? Or am I wrong about the kit. I have the wilwood kit on my audi from rpi.


----------



## ErinH

req said:


> but the new 311 album dropped today, and it sounds rad lol.
> 
> maybe ill take a video of the operation of my carpc...


well, it _is _3-11 today, so it only makes sense.

"all mixed up..."

Good times!


----------



## req

capea4 said:


> Question for you,
> It appears in one of your pics that you have a wilwood front break kit, and on it there are springs to aid the pads to return. Any info on this? Or am I wrong about the kit. I have the wilwood kit on my audi from rpi.


i do not have the break upgrade. so i dont know what to tell ya 



let me know if this video works 

https://plus.google.com/108182200432571559272/posts/gKUr4PQxRrn


----------



## quietfly

video no worky for me-y


----------



## req

ok ill see if i can get it onto youtube. youd think that google+ would be tied in with youtube... but its not even though it uses the same video format and player lol.


----------



## capea4

yogegoy said:


> Tubular MK4 GTI IDF Control Arms with Spherical Bearings.


I was referring to this pic, those are wilwood calipers, just not yours, sorry


----------



## req

oh yea, those were photos that somone else posted about something, not my car. i WISH it was my car 

sorry i could not be of more help sir. i have never seen a spring like that for a break pad ever.


----------



## req

i just ordered a copy of windows 8.1 (for the touch screen friendlyness) and a 256gb solid state music drive on top of the 120gb drive ive already got. 

the new 7" open frame 1200x800 native resolution capaticatve touchscreen LCD should be shipping today or next week from malyasia. im hoping it will all be here in the next week or two. 










Shop | Chalkboard Electronics



i also picked up a new (used but in great condition) black carpet for my gti to replace the worn grey one and complete the black interior swap. i intend to take all the interior parts out and do a bit of an overhaul on things that need attention (the yellow heatshrink is driving me insane)













i am also toying with buying this kids dashboard top... after seeing some of the installs recently with midranges + dashboards, its giving me fun ideas lol.





















i also might look into doing rear quarter panel midbass possibly in a sealed enclosure instead of front door midbass after my playing with midbass locations in the house it seemed to work VERY well.

ill try and get that video swapped over to youtube, had another project to work on last night (besides the new diablo3 patch and titanfall haha)

cheers.


----------



## bertholomey

Love the shot of the imaging set up - I'll have to read up on that thread. Thanks Andy!


----------



## req

bertholomey said:


> Love the shot of the imaging set up - I'll have to read up on that thread. Thanks Andy!


no, thank you jason. your passion and evolution from the time we first met until now is a strong motivator and inspiration for me.

i should be thanking you sir.

:beerchug:


that is an interesting thread, and my findings when i tested it inside were also interesting. if you want i can bring the speaker buckets to your house and we can play with them


----------



## bertholomey

req said:


> that is an interesting thread, and my findings when i tested it inside were also interesting. if you want i can bring the speaker buckets to your house and we can play with them


Absolutely! would love to play with speaker buckets


----------



## captainobvious

The orange buckets have more of a "heavy" sound to them and a better matched timber than the Korean made white buckets which sound "thin" and harsh. The system never sounded better before the orange buckets and I knew that it would because of the price of the buckets and the excellent reviews on them. Some argue that all buckets sound the same, but they are usually the people with the kitty litter buckets and not the people with the good driveway salt buckets. Sure, they all perform well at low volumes, but where you really hear the subtle differences with the buckets is when you push them to their limits. Because of the poor quality of the Chinese buckets, they lose their composure much quicker than the USA made ones. 
Don't even get me started on old-school buckets, because they don't build them nearly as beefy as they did back then. We used to wank on those buckets all day long and they took it like a champ. My old school buckets are so underrated when compared to the new ones, but I never ran any of the 'cheater' buckets in competition.


Is Matt R modding these yet?


----------



## BowDown

Speed holes!


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## req

lol guys. i dont know how i missed these comments hahah 


so i got this in the mail today.










i posted these on facebook because some vw guys wanted me to show them my carpc\dashmat and subs.


















and that youtube video i promised.


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## mrstangerbanger

Great system man!!


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## Hanatsu

Nice... cool system indeed


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## quickaudi07

why does it take so long for the CD to read, that would drive me crazy....
I don't even have a cd player in my car anymore  what ma i to say anything,,, but its ok I have replaced my CD player with blue-ray player  woot woot.. I will post my video up soon


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## req

its a laptop cdrom. it has to spin the cd up, then read all the files, then push them to the software. it takes a second for it to start. most car audio cd players start the spin up and read the lead in tracks and play the first track before they buffer the whole disc.

its just how the hardware works in this case. 

i know of a few head units *ahem*alpine dva-9860*ahem* that, when loaded with an MP3 cd, had to buffer EVERY song into memory EVERY time the thing started. then when you wanted to change the track - it buffered that song AGAIN. it took at least a full minute to read a DVD-CD with like 800 tracks on it, and like 5 seconds to skip to the next track, PLUS you couldnt just hit the skip track button 5 times to get from track 1 to track 5. you had to wait 5 seconds for it to buffer each track no matter what, then skip the track after it starts playing.

worst. headunit. ever.


but the transport was superb and it was a super high end unit. just mega fail for digital media that is not an audio cd.


i HARDLY ever use CD's as a media source now. i can just log into wifi from my driveway or my cell phone and download stuff from my google drive account, from my shared network, heck - i can even stream (somewhat) from google play music depending on my signal strength and audio quality settings. so the CDROM was ONLY for competitions sake as a transport for digital straight into the DSP. when a CD plays, its basically doing the same exact thing a car audio CD player does.

so im happy with the fact that its just a seamless integration, even if it takes 15 seconds for it to spin up and buffer the disc.


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## quietfly

nice car pc walk thru. are you using centerfuse with win 8.1? too once you swap?


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## quickaudi07

req said:


> its a laptop cdrom. it has to spin the cd up, then read all the files, then push them to the software. it takes a second for it to start. most car audio cd players start the spin up and read the lead in tracks and play the first track before they buffer the whole disc.
> 
> its just how the hardware works in this case.
> 
> i know of a few head units *ahem*alpine dva-9860*ahem* that, when loaded with an MP3 cd, had to buffer EVERY song into memory EVERY time the thing started. then when you wanted to change the track - it buffered that song AGAIN. it took at least a full minute to read a DVD-CD with like 800 tracks on it, and like 5 seconds to skip to the next track, PLUS you couldnt just hit the skip track button 5 times to get from track 1 to track 5. you had to wait 5 seconds for it to buffer each track no matter what, then skip the track after it starts playing.
> 
> worst. headunit. ever.
> 
> 
> but the transport was superb and it was a super high end unit. just mega fail for digital media that is not an audio cd.
> 
> 
> i HARDLY ever use CD's as a media source now. i can just log into wifi from my driveway or my cell phone and download stuff from my google drive account, from my shared network, heck - i can even stream (somewhat) from google play music depending on my signal strength and audio quality settings. so the CDROM was ONLY for competitions sake as a transport for digital straight into the DSP. when a CD plays, its basically doing the same exact thing a car audio CD player does.
> 
> so im happy with the fact that its just a seamless integration, even if it takes 15 seconds for it to spin up and buffer the disc.


I'm just giving you a hard time  sweet build, to bad you live so damn far!


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## ryyo

Are you still using the vifa xt25's? I've got the same, and just cannot get them to blend well well with the rest of my system. They seem to be too bright. I think the problem, for me, is their relatively high sensitivity compared to the rest of my speakers.


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## yogegoy

req said:


> oh yea, those were photos that somone else posted about something, not my car. i WISH it was my car
> 
> sorry i could not be of more help sir. i have never seen a spring like that for a break pad ever.


I placed these springs on the pad because the pads tend to stick and makes noise. Since I use specific pads for those Willwood's I'm using that remedy now. It pushes the pads outward while the ones on top of it helps it sit in place on it's perches.


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## captainobvious

ryyo said:


> Are you still using the vifa xt25's? I've got the same, and just cannot get them to blend well well with the rest of my system. They seem to be too bright. I think the problem, for me, is their relatively high sensitivity compared to the rest of my speakers.



Can't you simply back the gain down on their amplification?


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## ryyo

captainobvious said:


> Can't you simply back the gain down on their amplification?


I tried everything I could think of (at the time anyway). Turned the gain down, eq'd, lowered levels. But I think I got it much better today. It just took a lot of adjusting compared to my previous tweeters.


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## req

not really an audio update. still waiting on my LCD and the mail system. shipping is taking forever.

but my friend paul and i made a new valance for my roof rack out of aluminum. the plastic one was like 6" too short and looked stupid. but i can powdercoat this one to match my wheels or something. we bolted it all together with rim-wheel bolts. it needs some more sanding and stuff - but the shape came out great, and it looks much better than the old scratched plexiglass one with a big ugly THULE logo on it haha.


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## chithead

I think the bare aluminum looks best on there. Awesome!


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## quickaudi07

Bad ass man, looks really good  I like !


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## Notloudenuf

Put some wheels on that thing and you'll have a pretty nifty lil' skateboard.


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## Orion525iT

req said:


> not really an audio update. still waiting on my LCD and the mail system. shipping is taking forever.
> 
> but my friend paul and i made a new valance for my roof rack out of aluminum. the plastic one was like 6" too short and looked stupid. but i can powdercoat this one to match my wheels or something. we bolted it all together with rim-wheel bolts. it needs some more sanding and stuff - but the shape came out great, and it looks much better than the old scratched plexiglass one with a big ugly THULE logo on it haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> [/IMG]


Thats a lot of roof racks! Which reminds me I that I need to get one. I don't think my 29er single speed will fit in my new tiny DD. 

In regards to the screen. They are out of stock again at chalkboard; pretty frustrating .


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## req

hehe. thanks for the props guys. i dont know if im going to leave it bare aluminum... i may get it powdered the same color as the car, or my rims... speaking of rims, i am currently trying to figure out what i am going to do. my roomate gave me some OEM BBS 2 piece wheels, and im trying to locate parts (a lip and a barrell) that i can utilize with them to make them 3 piece wheels. its turning out to be not so easy haha.


email chalk, ask them if you can put in an order as soon as they have more in stock - they sell out right away. there is a huge demand for this product. thats how i got mine. the screen is STILL in shipping - customs seems to be a pain in the ass in this regard. but for $160 shipped, its still cheaper than the screen i have now - AND its supposed to be way WAY better.


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## quickaudi07

Why not just skp this idea of CAR pc and get a tablet like i did, They do have windows 8, 8" models now days which is way much smaller form factor  Just a thought i throw it out there.

See if you could reuse your SSD drive with a new tablet, since you have a processor why not get a plug and play device like we talked about and have optical output. there is so many different things you could do.


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## req

because i already have the pc, and a copy of windows and a new screeen was like $260 and a new windows tablet without optical output or a big enough solid state drive starts at $500. plus i would have to redesign the entire thing.

form meets function. i will have the same capabilities when the screen gets here as a surface tablet with way more function.

in the end it will be the same, but it will cost less in man hours and capitol this way.


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## AccordUno

quickaudi07 said:


> Why not just skp this idea of CAR pc and get a tablet like i did, They do have windows 8, 8" models now days which is way much smaller form factor  Just a thought i throw it out there.
> 
> See if you could reuse your SSD drive with a new tablet, since you have a processor why not get a plug and play device like we talked about and have optical output. there is so many different things you could do.



Except the 8" are based of ARM processor and not have all the features of Win8.1 pro. But I could be wrong..


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## Orion525iT

AccordUno said:


> Except the 8" are based of ARM processor and not have all the features of Win8.1 pro. But I could be wrong..


 Nah, there are x86 based 8" tablets with Haswell Atom and some A4 AMD. 64bit x86 tablets (Intel Haswell and AMD Mullins) are just around the corner. Expect x86 tablets to start chipping away at the ARM stranglehold. Higher end ones will be pricey, but low end are competitive to ARM. 

A car PC will still have more flexibility. You can get optical adapters for usb and HDMI spliters that will work with tablets, but this adds to overall cost.


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## AccordUno

Orion525iT said:


> Nah, there are x86 based 8" tablets with Haswell Atom and some A4 AMD. 64bit x86 tablets (Intel Haswell and AMD Mullins) are just around the corner. Expect x86 tablets to start chipping away at the ARM stranglehold. Higher end ones will be pricey, but low end are competitive to ARM. .


Interesting..


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## req

agian, more about cost of a tablet (over $600) versus the OS and a screen (under $300). plus the expandability of hardware not limited by USB.


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## req

so. i got my new LCD in the mail and it works.

Shop | Chalkboard Electronics

quoted from my other thread about it;




req said:


> i was at work i have to look more closely into it.
> 
> pictures.
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> this is the foam cutout from the packaging - it looked very close to the actual size of the screen.
> 
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> so now i gotta figure out how to power it on lol.





req said:


> everything seems to work fine. all you need is a miniHDMI cable and a miniUSB cable and thats it. there is an optional ambient light sensor thingie - i recommend you check that box when you buy your screen. the prices for the cables are good as well - i would just get all that extra stuff right from them - you most likely wont need the power adapter as the screen runs off USB power. the touch interface works fine just with plug-n-play - however i was having some scaling issues with my wifes laptop. basically her laptop resoution is wierd and will not go to 1080p, or 1280x800, so the LCD will scale down the image.
> 
> i think it may be due to hardware in the laptop so i was not able to get a good video because i had to set it at a lower resolution than windows 8 likes and i couldnt get into the app store or any of that jazz - again, i think its got something to do with the laptop not the screen.
> 
> the screen is sharp and clear. the "glass" is glossy and shows fingerprints like any other clossy surface - so i think a matte screen protective film might really benefit here, but it will take away from the sharpness of the display. its super light and super thin. there is **NO MOUNTING PROVISIONS** on this display - so im going to have to make a kind of sleeve or something to slide this into from the back. we will see.
> 
> *TL;DR - plugged it in, screen worked. touch interface worked.*


----------



## quietfly

i knew i should have swung buy and grabbed that package faster....


----------



## Hanatsu

Looks awesome... makes me wanna go car PC as well


----------



## Black Rain

Thats a pretty nice screen. Hopefully we'll be able to see it soon.


----------



## req

ive got a new vw radio housing and almost everything i need to build a new housing - im looking for the right bezel that would fit the LCD screen. i got the idea when i was in california at simplicity in sound.

if not that, im going to try and mimick darthjta's ipad mini with the plastic piece that he used a chamfer around the edge. at least that is my plan. as seen here;

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2085536-post263.html


----------



## req

im looking at this dash kit, taking the bezel out, and grafting it into the radio housing. when i saw it in california at simplicity in sound last week, it was very close fit match, a few mm's bigger for the viewing area. but i think i can cut\trim\glue it back down to size and make it fit. for $15 i think its worth a try.

Metra 95-8903B In-dash Receiver Kit Fits select 2010-up Subaru Legacy and Outback models — double-DIN radios at Crutchfield.com


----------



## captainobvious

Looking awesome Andy.


----------



## quickaudi07

I think 15$ would save you a lot of time and molding time, I like the screen seems like a good resolution and crisp.

As some has stated in regards to Optical and USB, I really have o problem with optical, plug n play device. was used in my case, worked out great, and usb hub on top of that. all at my finger tips with my windows 8 tablet...

Not to kill thi thread, I have ordered a new tablet to try it out. its a Dell 11Pro little smaller than Samsung 11.6.. but its all up in the air... I will be doing some testing for work and go from there if its usable for car or not... I will give my thoughts in a different thread...
Over all REQ everything looks good... cant wait for the finish LCD


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## req

thanks guys!

if anyone knows of a ~7" lcd bezel that looks like the one above, please reference it here. i only want to do this one more time haha.


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## req

i think this actually might work perfectly. nice and flat, with the recess in there. im sure the size isnt perfect, but i think i can work with this...










Stock No. 95-7870T
Honda Ridgeline 2005-up DDIN dash kit
http://www.metraonline.com/part/Honda_Ridgeline_Dash_kit_95-7870T


----------



## req

so according the this; double din is 180x100 mm

ISO 7736 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

the LCD is 152x96mm - so it will take some finesse... sigh. after thinking about it - my dash is quite low compared to most new cars, and if i used a bezel with the recess, it will either cut off the top bit of my LCD because of the viewing angle + recess - or it wont do anything to mitigate the light as a shade...

i dont know if i am going to go with the recess - i think im going to stick with a flat install plus a nice chamfer with the router. i think overall this will have a great asthetic and will be easiest and ergonomic.

maybe il could use this one as a good starting point...

Amazon.com: Metra 99-3045G 1994-97 GM Small Truck ISO DIN/DDIN Installation Kit (Gray): Car Electronics


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## JayinMI

After seeing DRTHJTA's Jetta/iPad install, I'm finding it harder and harder NOT to do an iPad or Android tablet. I don't know if using a dash kit as a starting point will save you much vs. making your own plexi trim ring like JT did for him. Assuming you have a router. Especially since the sizes don't exactly align anyway.

Jay


----------



## req

yeah thats what i was thinking as well. but i dont have any 1\2 inch plexi laying around! besides, i was hoping to find some ABS plastic that was thick enough, and after searching the web i didnt find it. so laminating some together to get the desired thickness might be the way to go. i ordered a few sheets of 1\4" ABS sheet to play with and do some plastic welding tests.

so that stuff should be here monday or tuesday. this weekend ill be cleaning out the garage, finishing the vaccum on my black carpet, and starting to pull the interior of the gti back out (ugh). pictures to follow.


----------



## quickaudi07

Looks like this car pc is going to take some time, energy, and mind blowing effort  keep em coming 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## req

i did this today. i am making some progress. now i need to make a template out of wood and transfer it onto some ABS plastic.


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## req

so after tons of measuring, the dimensions on the sheet i posted earlier from the manufacturer are for the *SCREEN* only, not including the capaticance touch panel that is on the front of this thing. so it is slightly thicker, and the size HxW is going to be different.

im going to put some measurements together and maybe solve this little issue..


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## req

so i decided to spend the morning designing a LCD bezel that is basically a drop-in use with my car. i sent it off to be 3D printed, i dont know if it will work - but its worth a try.

im really sick - so i decided to stay indoors and work on this versus going outside and cleaning my garage... im really slacking.


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## diy.phil

^ ooooohhhh....yeaaaah...nice!!!


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## BowDown

Nice. Look forward to seeing the results! 

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk


----------



## Black Rain

I likes it too. Love to see how you bring it all together.


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## req

so i took some stuff out of the gti.










i got a new (used) black carpet to put in there, some black seat belts, some black trim panels for the left\right of the subwoofers, and some new AC vents.




























also, i think i found my most annoying rattle. the windows in the car over time compress the gaskets and the window itself jiggles a bit in the tracks. well i found that this plastic guy has a metal inside, so i pried it apart enough to compress the window in between the gaskets and stop it from jiggling so freely! i hope it works, its seriously the most annoying thing ever.










also, this is why you should not use cheap sound deadener like e-dead from elemental designs 5 years ago.











not really any audio related things. but work got done. i also cleaned up my garage big time and i will be putting some new friends in my car, along with the matching XBL^2 tweeters i scored a while back. so ill have all XBL^2 drivers after im done.











plus, the rear speaker locations are looking perfect for the anarchys, so i think im going to try and put the new CSS driver in the low\front door 6.5 location with a nice angle to keep them as on axis as possible. i dont know if it will be better than kick panels, but i am gonna give it a try!

lots of sweating. plus i am just getting over a pretty bad cold i got last friday. i took a sick day today. im feeling much better now


----------



## quietfly

so your replacing the Vifas and the Faitals?


----------



## req

gonna switch it up. no real reason for it other than the new speakers were cheap and i think it will be cool to run all xbl^2 drivers.

who knows. i have had the same speakers since 2011 haha.

btw, car pc is up and running windows 8 with the new screen. cant post pics from this computer, ill have them up a little later tonight - hopefully all the software i need will work as well!


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## quietfly

post some youtube of it i was to see how quick it is....


----------



## req

took a video already of it but i forgot that i had the windows password enabeled so it just went to the lock screen. i will post another video tonight after i get some more software and music loaded up to give a proper demo!


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## quietfly

sweet i look forward to it


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## req

im on the car pc right now on my desk. trying to get everything transferred. its taking longer than i had hoped to transfer 150gb lol. ill do a proper demo tomorrow i promise. 

im uploading a quick 45 second boot video to youtube now. wouldnt let me rotate...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdeQ_CxnU7k






in the mean time, i installed jetta flush led vents. yay!


----------



## quietfly

looks pretty cool


----------



## req

so the music transfer is going to take 15 hours over the network, then ive gotta import the music library and its ID3 tags into my front end software lol. its going to take a while hahaha. i sorted through all that music last night making sure i didnt have one song in a folder, or anything like that. i should only have full albums and maybe a few misc songs that werent on specific albums. i filled out some bands that i was missing some stuff. generally just organized and so forth. ive been collecting music for years, and i have never gone through it. so it took a while.

i know its all (well most of it) mp3's - and most of the stuff i listen to is 320kbps - i plan on getting some FLAC SQ stuff to drop on there in the future. so far so good.

my bezel has been confirmed good, and it is off to the 3D printer as of yesterday. i assume it is either in production or completed by now. some parts for the GTi are going to be delivered today. mainly new E-break cables. the origional ones tend to stretch out over the years, and the parking break is not as tight as it should be (4 clicks, instead of hitting the stops and still not being tight). so some maintenance sutff first.

in the mean time, im going to focus on the new speakers & locations while the car is apart. swapping the helix p-DSP with the arc PS8. and changing that god-awful yellow and blue heat shrink i had to use out of necessity.

im hoping this is seriously the last re-re-rebuild.



last thought - i have been trying to get the touch screen to work as a 'tablet touch screen' with windows 8.1 with no luck. i finally emailed chalkboard electronics, and as it turns out - only 'windos registered screens' work this way, and the chalkboard one is NOT part of that group. so my biggest concern is switching between applications (think the start menu and start bar) using the touch screen. i dont know how i can record a demo if i can not go between applications... so im still scratching my head with that one.

blah. sorry about the long post. just stuff on my mind.

by the way. opening a pool sucks. 
cheers.


----------



## req

ok posting pictures before work because i cant get to g+ over there...

//EDIT// descriptions.

so i spoke earler about changing my front stage speakers. nothing major. i have had a set of CSS LD25X tweeters from when they were selling the matched pairs, and i just jumped on a pair of CSS VWR126X midranges the other day, so i figure i will try and run an entire XBL^2 enabled front stage. kinda neat i think.

discontinued LD25X tweeter
Report on the New CSS LD25X Tweeter

VWR126X midrange
Creative Sound - Product Details

exodus EX-anarchy 6.5 specs (thanks erin)
Exodus Anarchy Klippel Testing





























ok. so with that out of the way i have been rolling on the carPC. a few things to note, and a few roadblocks. so windows 8 is kind of a pain in the ass. it does not allow me to boot right into software. it must boot to the desktop or the metro menu first, and i have not been successful in forcing an autorun. bummer. second, the LCD from chalkboard is NOT a windows certified touch screen. this means that touch gestures DO NOT WORK in windows 8 with this screen. no swiping left\right for scrolling. no swiping from the side of the screen to switch apps. yeah, talk about bogus. so at this point im thinking of going back to windows 7. all the features i wanted basically dont work because microsoft is stupid hah. but i did transfer over 100gb of music to my hard drive and import it into centrafuse. that took a while.










i had some maintenance stuff to do. the Ebreak cables were corroded and stretched causing a horrible break squeel and just made me nervous parking in my own driveway. so i bought some new ones (along with a few interior parts i needed) and got that taken care of over the weekend.



















so i am planning on building sealed boxes for my anarchys. they will be moved to the rear quarter panel stock location. following my OPSODIS testing in my house, it seemed to work quite well. since the front wave timing hitting each ear (phase) is the control for lower frequencies left\right cues, im going to attempt putting the midbass directly to my left\right. when the seat is all the way back and im in my driving position, they are just SLIGHTLY aft of perfectly 90* to my line of sight, so i think it will work out. plus, i am able to build sealed enclosures. about 5 inches of depth from the mounting surface, over 12 inches wide, and well over 12 inches deep, i should have plenty of volume for half a cube easily.










so i made some baffles for my midrange in the lower front 6.5 locations. now my kick panels will be able to seat fully, the carpet wont have to be messed with. it will remain semi on axis (aimed at each headrest). thats the best i could do without hitting the window and clear the door card. a layer of fiberglass, a flush trim ring, stretched some grill cloth, strengthended with fiberglass reinforced bodyfiller, deadened, and a layer of CCF on the back. each one of these baffles weighs like 5lbs lol. mounted to the door with M6 rivet nuts. i did it in the dark, ill snap some pics of those later.




































































































































































so thats where i am at. going to pick up some M6 bolts today after work. hopefully have the midranges playing very shortly! next up is the midbass enclosures.


anyone have any thoughts about enclosure volume for the 8 ohm anarchy for 50~300hz? i think i can easily do up to .5 cubic feet. im thinking of making them as big as i can and back filling them in case i want to upgrade to a different speaker in the future.


----------



## JayinMI

So, mids in the doors, Midbasses in the back? Interesting. Can't wait for descriptions.

Jay


----------



## quietfly

nice to see the progress


----------



## req

updated with some short descriptions! 

need some help with the mibass enclosure volume. anarchy 8 ohm from 50~300hz. ive gotta go download bass box pro


----------



## subwoofery

Sell your Flatlyne and buy a pair of XBL^2 subs 

... then you can use a sticker on your window that says something like "XBL^2 enabled"  

Kelvin


----------



## subwoofery

double post


----------



## req

lol. yeah i actually thought about it already hahah. but who makes an xbl^2 18" ib sub?


----------



## subwoofery

Nick from Stereo Integrity is working on an XBL^2 24" prototype sub  

Kelvin


----------



## req

Bummer its not an 18. No way I can fit a 24 ... Much less a pair of them.

So farting around in bass box pro 6, I came up with two enclosures for the midbass. A sealed .707 that was 2.3L or a ported one that was 10.6L. You know, hitting the "optimal" button in there. I'm not an enclosure guru, so I don't know a whole bunch about designing proper enclosures for a specific purpose. I could fit the ported one, but I think I would run into a problem where the rear speaker grill is only the size of the cone, and the port would fire into the plastic of the panel. The panels are not cheap or easy to find so there's no way I'm gonna cut it up for science.

Sealed looks like it rolls off rather quickly.


----------



## req

midrange pods are in and playing music. next up - midbass enclosures.



















rivet nuts are awesome.


----------



## captainobvious

Yeah, nutserts rock. Speaking of which...time to go by a nutsert tool and inserts


----------



## req

i actually got some wood cut, but i had to get the lawn mowed, and our mower decided to sieze up (thanks craigslist lawn mower), so we were able to borrow a neighbors. i got the lawn mowed, and then i had like 15 minutes and got another template finished for one of the depth edges of the enclosure and some wood cut before the rain started coming down. so i called it a day and took a shower.

i dont think im going to get anything done until the holiday on monday because my wife is cooking me a birthday dinner tomorrow night, we have to host got a guy+girl baby shower thing with a keg (oh bother hehe) on saturday to host for a good friend of mine, and i think something is going down on sunday - but who knows. im thinking i should be able to get the top\side template knocked out fairly quickly and trace it out to some wood. its looking like a real good amount of airspace ill have in there.

i still dont know if i should just seal it up or figure out a way to go ported. *sigh*


----------



## req

so some progress on the carPC end.

i got my 3D printed bezel in the mail today. and other than one minor boo-boo that wont affect the use of it, it came out perfect. i could have given myself like .5mm on the height and width of the screen, but its nice and press-fitted in there, so i dont even have to use anything to hold the screen in the bezel! there is a gap at the bottom, but i just need to dremel the corners of the car housing out a tad, for some reason they kind of go up in the bottom corners causing it to not be flush. *shrug*

btw, sorry about the photo quality. im too lazy to bother with my real camera, this auto-upload-to-google is so damn nice.























































































































its so hard to get a nice picture of an LCD screen 

ill be plastidipping it soon to match the rest of the dash.


----------



## req

uh. i just posted an update 0_o wherd it go?

//edit//

that was real wierd. i had to close my browser and reload the page to see the next page come up.


----------



## diy.phil

ooooooh that's very nice / lovely / awesome!!!


----------



## Hanatsu

Nice!


----------



## Jfreak

That sucks about the gestures/multitouch. 
The bezel is sweet, do you do Cad work? My buddy has a 3d printer, never thought to prototype stuff with it.


----------



## shawnk

That looks great Andy! Looks more OEM than the previous one


----------



## captainobvious

Wow- that came out great Andy! I have to fab something very unique for my dash as well. I've never looked into 3D printing. How do you create the layout to exact specs like that before sending it off?


----------



## Black Rain

Seems like everything is starting to come together nicely and just how you wanted it. Love to see it at ne of our GTG.


----------



## req

captainobvious said:


> Wow- that came out great Andy! I have to fab something very unique for my dash as well. I've never looked into 3D printing. How do you create the layout to exact specs like that before sending it off?


I sat at my desk for 3 hours with a pair of calipers and measured everything like 30 times. I made one booboo on the back side with the prongs that slide into the slots of the dash. Apparently they aren't in the middle, they are about 5mm lower than the centerline, and I made the mistake of assuming they were dead center (I think) so I snipped them off and its no big deal. All I've got to do is sand down the bottom corners of the housing so it will slide down a few millimeters.

But the big thing is, if the dash isn't an easy piece to measure, its not going to be something that can easily be modeled to fit perfectly. The reason this worked so well was it was basically a rectangular prism. No angles, no curves. So I didn't have to worry about that stuff. In reality, a 3D scan of whatever the model is being mated to would be ideal, but I don't have that kind of money haha.

Thanks for the kind words everyone! I should be able to work some more tomorrow and Monday!


----------



## req

found about 60 more GB of music that i had not introduced to the carpc. after realizing i had put it into my recently 'sorted music' folder on my main computer, i had not set aside the folders or noted them in any way (about 20~40 albums)... so i had to completly delete all the music on my carPC, and re-copy it to insure that i had everything i wanted to keep.

major buzzkill. somewhere around 22k songs ranging from low bit rate mp3 up to flac and wav files. 160gb of music haha. i feel better now that i went through and cleaned a lot of it up and i went though the 'must have sq albums' thread and made some things happen. so i have a lot to choose from now.

unfortunately for me, that means another 15 hours of file transfers because its over wifi. well its time for bed anway LOL.


----------



## Black Rain

Holy Crap... 15hr Wifi transfer. Thats a ton of music. So basically your carrying your entire musical library in on your carpc?


----------



## JayinMI

Man, I've got about 32GB in my music library. About 6000 songs or so. I maybe listen to about 400 of them on any kind of regular basis. 160GB is nuts! 
But pretty cool to have it at your fingertips in the car.


----------



## SPLEclipse

That bezel looks awesome!

I feel your pain on the wifi transfer. If i moving a bunch of stuff over to my Nexus setup I just pull the HDD and bring it inside, so I guess I'm lucky in that regard.


----------



## RoyAlpine

Andy, the custom bezel looks amazing!


----------



## req

thanks guys 

yeah i have been collecting music for a while. when i was on deployment, i had an 8tb drive that i kept in my shop and my rule was, if you are going to browse my files, at least transfer all your files into a new folder with your name on it before you start so by the time you are done looking through it - everyone has more to choose from.

not all of it is high quality. most anything i have gotten myself is 320 bitrate, but not all of it is that good.

the best part is my PC will play any file type - FLAC included. so i need to buy some FLAC albums to put on here, i only have a hand full of them.

in other news, i did some work on some speaker enclosures yesterday. after staring at the area for the speaker for a while, i decided to make the speaker box out of wood so that i could just put it in there and not have to worry about fiberglass or leaks or whatever. i scrapped the little triangular top\aft corner because i didnt have enough scraps of wood for it. i think it ended up with a volume of about .31 cubic feet. the interior size is about 18" tall 10" wide, 4" deep at the top, and 2" deep at the bottom.

if anyone is an ecnlosure specialist - please help lol.


----------



## req

i figured out the boot-up thing, and i took a little video of it shutting off and turning on. sorry its dark, my camera does not have a high dynamic range.


----------



## JayinMI

That's right. You're in the Navy aren't you? I saw "aft" on one of your boxes and laughed out loud. Any of the rest of us land lubbers would have wrote "back" or "rear." 

In the pic with your 3 computer models, is the first one "optimal," and the other 2 are your models? Just curious.

Jay


----------



## req

double post?


----------



## req

JayinMI said:


> That's right. You're in the Navy aren't you? I saw "aft" on one of your boxes and laughed out loud. Any of the rest of us land lubbers would have wrote "back" or "rear."
> 
> In the pic with your 3 computer models, is the first one "optimal," and the other 2 are your models? Just curious.
> 
> Jay


haha jay. yeah i was in the navy for 5 years. inboard, aft, starbord, forward - they all make more sense than left\right\front\back because when you use the naval terms, it is known you are referring to the crafts front\back\left\right and not your own perspective. my wife and i had a 'discussion' the other day when putting the sheet thing over our blanket thing and i was referring to the bottom (where the slit is that is put at the foot of the bed) and she was calling it the top because we were holding it up and putting the blanket inside. lol - it was silly because i couldnt explain why calling that edge the bottom when clearly to her it was obviously the top in its current orientation. 

the first sealed enclosure is a 'optimal .707 qtc' enclosure, but the bottom end looks phooey. the second is an 'optimal ported' enclosure, but i dont have the volume for it. the last one is the enclosure that i actually was able to build. it will be a little smaller than that after the driver is installed - but im guessing ~.3 cubes after its all together. it has a bit better of a lowend than the .707 qtc sealed box, and the upper extension is the same, but im only going to be using it into the 300hz range and thats about where they are all equal. so i think i hit the nail on the head with my enclosures! then again, im not an enclosure designer - so im just guessing. i can always throw some polyfill or some blocks of wood in there to change the box volume if i have to. *shrug*

on that note, i got some **** done today. im almost ready to listen to them!! i need to run to the store and buy some longer M4 machine screws for my rivet nuts to hold the enclosures in place. the one that i was able to get in with some random headunit screws is nice and tight. using the CCF on the front, around the bottom, and up the back makes a nice and tight fitment! im very happy with how it turned out. i just hope the OEM panels go back into place without any issues.

i had to silicone on the outside of the front half of the box because i couldnt fit my hand down in there lol. it wont be seen either way - but i think it looks good.














































i put closed cell foam tape on the inside and outside of the metal panel for the front baffle spacer. since the back of the enclosure was angled and i used 1\2" plywood, the speaker didnt mount right to the metal panel like i was hoping - so i had to improvise 



















it was getting dark FAST and i was scrounging for M4 screws - i still had to take the driver side seatbelt motor off to fit the rivet nut under there, and i didnt get there.





























so thats where i am at today. lots of progress in the past weeks. i still have to play around with where i am going to put the XBL2 tweeters - i really like how i have a very OEM look to the car, and with any luck, the carPC will blend in enough to confuse people who dont know what they are looking at. so i may just keep the tweeters in the sail panel, and do some simplicityinsounds type tweeter sail panels because the new ones will not fit behind the grill methinks.

all-in-all, i think its gonna be awesome.


----------



## Orion525iT

req said:


> the first sealed enclosure is a 'optimal .707 qtc' enclosure, but the bottom end looks phooey. the second is an 'optimal ported' enclosure, but i dont have the volume for it. the last one is the enclosure that i actually was able to build. it will be a little smaller than that after the driver is installed - but im guessing ~.3 cubes after its all together. it has a bit better of a lowend than the .707 qtc sealed box, and the upper extension is the same, but im only going to be using it into the 300hz range and thats about where they are all equal.


Phooey low end? That's what cabin gain is for . You could easy enough run a dedicated sub just to cover the very low end. 





req said:


> all-in-all, i think its gonna be awesome.


I think so too! Actually I am really looking forward to the results as I am will be doing something similar (a coupe so a little different, but same placement). Except I plan to use true subs up ~200 hz that will IB over the rear shock tower, and then midbass from 200hz to about 800hz right in the space between where you have mounted your drivers and the seat belt at the B-pillar.

The only thing that I can criticize is the mounting of the boxes. I would be somewhat worried that the metal bracket will flex a bit with hard bass hits. Maybe its more solid than it looks. Did you consider using acoustic caulk between the boxes and the exterior sheet metal instead of the (what looks like) foam? I would think that it would help brace the box while simultaneously stiffening and dampening the sheet metal in the rear quarter. That's what I was thinking of doing, although I am using push-pull manifolds, so it would be just the back of the manifold that would be adhered to the sheet metal.

Looks awesome though. Wish I was closer so I could hear it.


----------



## req

if you ever get to the NCSQ meets, you could take a listen.

lol, well i built the enclosures as 'big' as i could make them with the thought of "if i need less, i can always back-fill it". id rather have more to work with, than not enough. so i can tune the enclosure volume by adding filler if i want to go smaller. but the plot looks like it should work well in this volume.

im not worried about the flexing. the box is mostly 3\4" high-grade plywood. i dont think this midbass will be able to flex 3\4" plywood haha. the back piece is 1\2" because i ran out of 3\4" - but spaced out from the sheetmetal. only the left\right side will touch the back - and i used closed cell foam from sound deadener showdown between the metal and the enclosure on the bottom\front, bottom, and back. also, there are CLD tiles back there too. so the enclosures are sandwiched in there really tight. the front metal piece is mostly a stablizer for forward\aft movement. i was inside the car and could barely move the thing while yanking on it in all directions. maybe ill take a video of how sturdy it is lol. so the enclosure is really well press-fitted in there. i took extra time to cut contours of the metal so that it would be a tight fit.


what do you mean by "true subs up to 200hz"? IMO - subwoofers play ~80hz and lower so i dont know why you would want a subwoofer to play something that is more directional?


----------



## captainobvious

Man, those things look stout. Hope I get to hear this beast this summer when it's finished.


----------



## req

i hope it gets finished 0_o

haha thanks man  its got a LOT of music on it. i wont have the CD rom permanently in there i dont think, i only ever used it at meets. ill get a USB powered one maybe... i dont know if i want to bother with it.


----------



## captainobvious

I was considering something along the lines of the Seagate Wireless Plus 2TB drive. It streams via wifi, runs on DC and is pretty compact. Would something like that work for you?


----------



## req

i think so. if you can hook it to a regular PC than it will work with mine!! 

ive got wifi, so i should be good haha. i can hotspot with my cell signal and play youtube if youd like too!


----------



## Orion525iT

> what do you mean by "true subs up to 200hz"? IMO - subwoofers play ~80hz and lower so i dont know why you would want a subwoofer to play something that is more directional?


Semantics I guess. Maybe I should just refer to them as "woofers"? They will run on separate L/R channels 25-200hz exactly where your midbasses are located.

The box looks very sturdy, and the contoured back panel will make it stiff even at 1/2" thickness. I was thinking more about the entire box moving. Its kinda hard to tell how thick/stiff the metal is in front. Now that I look at the previous pictures again, I can tell that the foam is wedged in there tightly. You say it is stiff and strong, I will take your word for it. I tend to overthink panel resonance, enclosure and baffle design.


----------



## Black Rain

Those mids enclosures came out pretty good. I think that 1/2" birch may have worked out a little better, but either way.... good enclosure. I'd like to know how much impact you get out of them. 

As for the XBL2 tweeters, setting them up on the sail panels will be a great placement for them. Doing the tweeter mounts will be much easier than the MB enclosures.


----------



## req

ah i see. midbass for me is between a subwoofer and a midrange, hence the term 'midbass'. but yeah. the boxes are sturdy as heck. i just used scraps of what i had lying around. i had just enough 3\4" birch ply to do the top\side\front and just enough 1\2" regular ply to do the bottom\back for both enclosures. i didnt want to buy anything - this project the only thing i paid for was mounting hardware for the speakers.

lol yeah i think the tweeters will be easy to fab into place. i have a lot of CA glue and some ABS plastic im going to try and use to make the tweeters do their thing. maybe ill 3D print some tweeter housings with a mesh grill?

oh, the possibilities 

on another note, i bought a new remote transmitter for my GTi at a local shop and i got the keyless entry working again. hallelujah.


----------



## req

well, the midbass is installed and working!

now to replace the helix p-dsp with the PS8 and fix some wiring things that have been bugging me 

as you can see, the enclosures replace the OEM foam stuff that was there origionally. so really i just added a box between the car exterior and the little metal panel used to mount the OEM speaker. when the trim panel is installed, this will all be unseen.










i think it will be raining for a few days - so i might not get much done. my father is also coming into town this weekend for an entire week so i dont think ill make any progress while he is here and i am spending time with him


----------



## captainobvious

Looks good! Are you going digital into the PS8?


----------



## req

obviouscaptainleopardavatarman said:


> Looks good! Are you going digital into the PS8?


ive been digital since ive had the H701 at the beginning of this build 

ive been running optical the whole time and i love it.


----------



## req

cut some plastic last night for my tweeters. going to fab up some flush mount cups for the sail panels methinks.





































also measured the OEM speaker locations as best i could with a single person... i might try to refine these with the help of a second person lol.










there were speed boats (big 40' ones) being put into a planes face today at work.










aslo, im thinking of getting these wheels trimmed and rebarreled to a 17 with custom width\offset and a stepped lip










they would look something like this - mind you NOT this exact rim, the one pictured above is what fits my bolt pattern that i will be buying, the one below is just a close example.










cheers


----------



## JayinMI

So, how do you take a 1 piece rim and make it a 2 piece rim? Also, is it the same bolt pattern? I know I've seen Vette wheels on Subarus, but I don't think I've ever seen GM wheels on a dub. Interesting.

Jay


----------



## req

so basically a company in california called wheel flip is going to saw the back of the barrel off and machine it flat. then they are going to flip it over, and machine flat the tiny lip that is there on the visible edge of the face on the front - where they stick those ugly weights for balancing.

then they are going to take a stepped 16->17 inch lip and barrel from their stock. weld the barrell on the back, and bolt the lip to the front. before assembly, they are going to powdercoat the rims to the color of my choice. then they should look like the second picture 

most american cars of the time were 5x4.75, and thats less than a milimeter over 5x120 - and that EU bolt pattern will NOT fit a 4.75 pattern. its a freggin joke. but for some reason, this one pontiac had 5x100 (the same as my VW). ive been searching for a wheel that nobody else had. something unique and retro, and i think this is it. ive already bought one scratch and dent rim from ebay that is at wheel flip now, im just trying to decide on offsets and weather or not i should stagger the offsets. if i DO stagger them, they will make them to the specific fitment of my choice. the good thing here is i can get different tires for the front and the back for fitment purposes. the bad thing is i cannot rotate the back tires to the front for wear purposes like i do now... so i will be going through front tires more often than rear tires. if i go with directional tires, then i cant even swap left and right. i would have to unmount and swap, and remount, and balance and get an alignment every time i needed to rotate the tires.

so im kind of trying to make the choice. im leaning toward getting all the same offsets and throwing a spacer on the back so that i can rotate the tires and not have to spend so much time and effort. it just seems like a pain in the ass for looks you know?


----------



## Black Rain

Nice tweeter mounts. Those will look awesome once you have them properly mounted and molded all in.

A second person always makes a difference when you are taking measurements. 2 sets of eyes, you can never go wrong. Either way, you just need them to be close enough because you are probably going to be making adjustments to tie everything in properly on the PS8.


----------



## optimaprime

why the swtich to the ps8? just curious.


----------



## captainobvious

I believe he's had the PS8 for quite some time but hasn't used it up until now. I *thought* that was because he was waiting for the controller to be released...?

Either way, it seems a more capable processor than what he's currently running, so looks like an upgrade to me


----------



## optimaprime

ohhhhhhhhhhh, figured the ps8 had a leg up on it. i am stuck in past with my old zapco dc amps for a dsp. but have wanted to try some of the others . the ps8 has me curious.


----------



## Black Rain

Granted, the Helix DSP is a great processor but the PS8 just offers more flexibility.


----------



## shawnk

req said:


> cheers


I think it's cool Andy. Definitely nice to have something that no one else will have  

My only advice... don't build just 4.. get at least 6! Back ups are a must!


----------



## captainobvious

Those look awesome Andy. You'd do the chrome finish too, right? Or polished? I don't think they'd look as good in just plain aluminum.


----------



## req

i could only find 5 of them shawn.

MOAR PROGRESS.









































































the reason they are so high up is because the door panel is not on, and it does cover a majority of the lower area of the sail panel. if you look at the dashboard, that is where the door meets the area. 


going to work on the PS8 right now. cya!


----------



## req

captainobvious said:


> Those look awesome Andy. You'd do the chrome finish too, right? Or polished? I don't think they'd look as good in just plain aluminum.


powdercoat most likely.


----------



## quietfly

i had those wheels on my 79 Camaro, they were from an 84 trans am. it took a lot of loving to figure out how to get them on the car. i ended up having one of my dads machinist open up one of the holes a little more to give it enough wiggle to massage on with a rubber hammer....


----------



## Black Rain

You could probably angle them up a bit and they would still be able to stay on-axis. 

Either way, everything is starting to look good.


----------



## req

got some work done. got rid of that hideous yellow heatshrink. that makes me so happy.

have not tried to power it on yet. my dad came down from new york, and he is going to be here for the week.

yesterday was my birfdayz. i ate coneys from hoffmans hotdogs and salt potatoes from hinerwadles.

and i got a pralines and cream icecream cake from baskin robins 

ok guys, i wont be updating for a few days. so ill see you then!


----------



## Black Rain

Well I assume that both amps are stacked on top of each other and straight down the center? 

I never noticed that your RCA connectors were already color coded, thats cool.

Enjoy the time with your dad.... family first.


----------



## req

not stacked on center, but staggered so i can adjust the settings still, and no more yellow!!! and yes, all the RCA's are color coded so i can tell what is what heheh. got the RCA's from EMOTIVA AUDIO. they looked good and were the right price and the right length.


----------



## captainobvious

I love a good wiring job- Excellent work. Not only clean but also symmetrical. I spy a monoprice optical as well. Those cables are really nice- even moreso considering the price!

I was just out working on my RCA's and DSP wiring as well


----------



## req

i got my optical cable from partsexpress not monoprice. but yea, they work great!


----------



## crea_78

Req, I guess that was you who posted these pictures on Facebook the other day.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## req

yes sir that was me 

only in "strictly sound quality"


----------



## ErinH

Nice work, dude!


----------



## quietfly

let us know how moving the midbass to the back works out imaging wise. i'm thinking of moving my exodus's to my rear doors and putting tighter midranges speakers in the fronts


----------



## req

Black Rain said:


> You could probably angle them up a bit and they would still be able to stay on-axis.
> 
> Either way, everything is starting to look good.


I could not get them any more angled without hitting the window. Thats as good as I could manage for the midrange locations to still fire through the grill in the door and clear the window and stay behind the door card.




quietfly said:


> let us know how moving the midbass to the back works out imaging wise. i'm thinking of moving my exodus's to my rear doors and putting tighter midranges speakers in the fronts


Will do. I plan on laying down my first tune with the ps8 this Friday. Hopefully I can throw in the time alignment an play with crossovers and get things half way there.



bikinpunk said:


> Nice work, dude!


Thanks Erin. I ended up with on axis tweeters because the stage was wider but I have not decided if this is set on stone. I want to play with the tune to see if it's right or wrong for my application first.


----------



## quickaudi07

holy ****, nice work  cant wait for the complete project,, how do you like the new LCD ???


----------



## teldzc1

Hey does that PS8 have a controller?


----------



## req

quickaudi07 said:


> holy ****, nice work  cant wait for the complete project,, how do you like the new LCD ???


thanks man! the new LCD is amazing. about a million times better than the old one, but im waiting on a firmware update and it will POSSIBLY allow full windows 8 control. *crosses fingers*



teldzc1 said:


> Hey does that PS8 have a controller?


unfortunately no. i was hoping that they would realese something by the time i put mine in... im thinking of running an 8-wire cable from the front to the back to facilitate the use of a controller if they ever decide to release one, it would be the best that i can muster at this point. i contacted arc and they said there would have to be a decoding deivce on the other end to send\recieve information to the DSP. i tried to ask if something like a raspberryPI would do the job, but they did not reply.


----------



## fockus

I love the look of the midbass in the back.

Keep the great work.


----------



## req

so i got some work done after my dad left. we saw a baseball game it was fun having him in town.










floor vaccumed and wiring re-ziptied into place



























CCF, MLV, and carpet jute re-installed









fresh black carpet installed. still some doge hair left, but i spent hours trying to get it perfect. this will have to do for now.









headded back outside to install the carpc, center console, seats, subwoofers, and do some work to the driver side door panel. im replacing the top-half because it has some scratches on it.

toodaloo!


----------



## bertholomey

req said:


> so i got some work done after my dad left. we saw a baseball game it was fun having him in town.
> 
> fresh black carpet installed. still some doge hair left, but i spent hours trying to get it perfect. this will have to do for now.
> 
> headded back outside to install the carpc, center console, seats, subwoofers, and do some work to the driver side door panel. im replacing the top-half because it has some scratches on it.
> 
> toodaloo!


Reading that 'doge' hair comment made me think of this clip (I know....I'm weird). 






I love the 'toodaloo' as well!


----------



## SPLEclipse

Doge?










Such midbass. So music.


----------



## req

lol guys, i didnt think anyone would catch on haha. 


i didnt think anybody read my thread anymore 


i got most of the interior back in over the weekend, but i ran into a bit of a snag with the carpc. i flashed a new bios to the motherboard so that i could have a cusom boot-up splash image (ill show you after its done downloading over 9000 windows updates). unfortunately it also overwrote (or deleted) the partition drive information. the installation for windows 8.1 was there still, but i could not access, repair, or rebuild it with any tricks or applications i could find. so i just chalked it up to being an awesome custom boot image and reinstalled windows and all of my applications.

i also had to re-copy 88k files, and re-import them into centrafuse. so it took a while. so im going to install the carpc back into the dash this week (i hope). i still need to adjust the radio housing and paint the 3D printed LCD bezel.

once that is done, i can finish installing the rest of the interior (dash pieces mostly) and test the PS8 and carpc. sorry i dont have any pictures for this update... nothing to look at really.

its real nice to have almost 100% complete black interior swap. im hoping to build a subwoofer grill once i finalize the rest of the install. it will be nice to hide them a tiny bit.

cheers


----------



## captainobvious

I've been following along 

You've poured a lot of time and thought (plus trial and error) into the car pc thing so it's been fun to see it come to fruition. (Sort of like the process I'm in with my motorization project, but yours is to a much higher level).
Good stuff...I'm looking forward to seeing it completed (and hearing it!)


-Steve


----------



## req

it took like 20 minutes to get this crappy shot of the bios splash screen, it goes by so fast. im kind of bummed out that the load time is so quick haha...

sorry for the crappy quality, but this screen comes up during the BIOS post 











spent a few hours sanding and prepping for paint. going to watch an episode of sherlok and then paint them tomorrow 





































plasti dip matches the OEM VW soft touch panels through the rest of the car almost perfectly. hooray


----------



## SPLEclipse

>over 9000 updates










Looking good! I'm very interested to see how those midbass work out.


----------



## req

LOL meme #2, i was caught again. haha.


----------



## NHgranite

That's good to know that 'Plastic Dip' matches the black VW interior.


----------



## req

yeah its nice, but make sure that its not something you will be touched too often like the door grab handle, it will scratch easily.

also, its really REALLY hard to get a super smooth coat with the rattle can of plastidip to perfectly match the smooth soft touch factory from volkswagen.


----------



## quietfly

they make different nozzles for the cans that help get smoother applications...


----------



## req

well i wish i had the 'smooth nozzle'
i wish i knew about the different nozzles before lol.


oh well... i think mine came out looking really good TBH.


----------



## quietfly

so far everything you've posted looks great!!!


----------



## req

put the last coat of plastidip on the bezel, dont mind the left side not being flush, i prolly nudged it with my finger. i just wanted a last even coat on the whole thing to make sure there werent inconsistincies in the finish.










and just before the rain started i put the carPC in the glove box and all it needs is the screen and to be plugged in.

the rain just started and i was trying to GTFO before i got soaked lol. so dont mind the potato photo. the extra wire to the left is the TOSLINK\HDMI\USB. i will coil it up nice behind the LCD. so tomorrow i think i will have it up and running!


----------



## req

the best part, is i can load the PS8 software in seconds and change any setting at any time without doing anything but using my wireless keyboard. 


also, with optical, my gains are rock bottom on the PS8. that 8v output is strong as hell. i have more headroom that i can imagine with the PS8+mosconi amps. hell, ive got the master volume on the PS8 at -3db because it was a little too loud hah. i still need to do some tweaking. i set basic crossover points for the speakers and input time alignment based on driver distance to my ears via *bikinipunk's* and mcintosh's speaker distance calculator.

im also walking through bikinpunks essentials of sound quality thread, and double checking my methods of tuning. hopefully i can steer myself down the most economical path 


well. out to the car. i gotta install the dayton omnimic software, ill be able to use the RTA mic and the PS8 software in the car without doing anything but plugging the mic into the USB spot.


----------



## captainobvious

Looks great Andy. Im hoping to have the same massive headroom in signal voltage with the optical plus Mosconi 6to8v8


----------



## Notloudenuf

This looks awesome Andy.
I'm ready to listen at high volumes!


----------



## bertholomey

Yes....drive down to Raleigh on the 4th of July so we can hear it ?


----------



## req

so this looks nice.











tuning with the PS8 is easy!










not really much to show though


----------



## BowDown

Great work man! Looks very OEM.

Find yourself using the multi-touch much?


----------



## quietfly

damn that looks fantastic


----------



## ErinH

indeed. looks very good. Good job, Andy!


----------



## captainobvious

Damn, looks great now with the interior all buttoned up. Well done Andy!


----------



## req

thanks guys 

i have gotten many compliments in person already!



BowDown said:


> Great work man! Looks very OEM.
> 
> Find yourself using the multi-touch much?


not at all, yet. i need to dig into windows8 more to figure out what kind of gesture programming i can do with it. i mostly just use the front end controls to pick songs and such. id like to make some playlists that include some of the songs i like to use as demo material and so forth.

i also plan on removing the guts from the cup holder at the top of the display, and swapping that with the CDROM from my previous LCD to keep that functionality - and it will be completly hidden.

my brother is also working on a metro app that uses GPS input from an antenna on USB via google the maps API - i dont know if he is going to get far on it. but eh you know.

im also looking into a Mk6 vw steering wheel that is for sale here locally that has steering wheel controls that i can iterface with a joycon to control volume and hopefully program next\previous\play\pause functions with... that would be rad.


----------



## Black Rain

Sorry I haven't followed your updates better but been busy. 

Anyways, this all came out really good. Look forward to hearing soon.


----------



## edouble101

What are your thoughts with imaging/staging?

BTW good job with making it all look stock


----------



## req

phew i knew that was going to come up 

well. im trying to get tuning time in, but life outside of car audio is a thing too - and other projects have taken the front seat so to speak, after my seats were reinstalled. (pun intended)


but, with basic crossovers and time correction, ive notice several things. ive been trying to listen to lots of stuff from things i am familliar with, to new things ive never listened to on this kind of system... one thing i noticed today, i was on the way to work listening to The Essential 3.0 Michael Jackson  CD1+2 (an mp3 rip ill admit). there are certain frequencies of midbass that are way up front, and certain - more rolling beats - that pull to the middle kind of like headphones. its a weird kind of sensation, and i think that i might be able to tackle this more with tuning and crossover slope changes - but who knows.

i cant remember the track name, but i usually go to 'billy jean' for a demo with people because the midbass in that track is killer, and with the sealed midbass enclosures - its no slouch!! so i was listening to a song after that, but before 'the way you make me feel'... im weird and ill listen to an entire album right in a row lol. ill pick a musician and just go through the whole thing. i dont know why. anyway... there is lots of left\right panning in these songs - and i was actually surprised at some of the left side width - i actaully did a double take and had to look in that direction.

the problem is - when you turn your head, it kind of ruins the whole mirage and the midbass just focuses to whatever side is louder (im assuming becauase the time differece in the phase is equal, and the brain defaults to amplitude or something) so usually if i turn my head 90* i hear the midbass further left, id assume because im closer - but i dont drive with my head turned left, so its really not a problem for me LOL.

the midrange\tweeters sound great together. i have to do some amplitude setting for the four speakers because i feel it pulls left, id also assume due to the fact the left side is closer - even though the right midrange will be more on axis - so yeah, its all got to do with seat time and tuning time.



but ill tell you what - tuning with the carPC is WAY easier than using a laptop. i have not done this yet - but i have to put the dayton omnimic software on there, and use the RTA and the PS8 software at the same time... im actually very excited to do this - as it was mostly the whole point of the carPC.


but ill say that in these sealed enclosures - the anarchies SLAM. i have the subs off right now, and honestly its not that bad lol.


----------



## edouble101

Based from what I just read it sounds pretty darn good! I would love to hear this setup. Speaker placement is somewhat unconventional to the norm but that by far doesn't mean that it has to be bad! I have thought that rear mounted midbass would help stage width. One if those things that you have to hear for yourself I guess


----------



## req

I had to comment on this, I just listened to the whole dark aide of the moon album by Pink Floyd - if you are looking for some awesome left/right stuff that is fun and laid back... this is really a must listen to on a HiFi stereo. The imaging is so 3D. Specifically "Time" has some awesome bongo type drums that walk from outside my left pillar to just outside my right pillar. There is a sweet heartbeat in the background that feels like ive got headphones on.

"On The Run" is intense too. There is a heartbeat with some kind of tearing coming from way far left or right across the stage to the opposite far side. There is a high hat kind of left of center I think, and the tearing sound starts as a midbass heartbeat god its cool. 

Sorry. I never critically listened to this album, ive only listened to it in passing kind of.

Way cool lol.


----------



## quietfly

i love that album....


----------



## req

MK6 multi-function steering wheel control -> JoyConEX -> CarPC - need help with button PCB 


I posted this exact same thing on the VW Vortex board in hopes that there is someone there with access to some obscure wiring schematic that will help.
VWVortex.com - MK6 multi-function steering wheel control -> JoyConEX -> CarPC - need help with button PCB











So, I picked up a 2011 Jetta TDi steering wheel (couldn’t afford\find a flat bottom) that had only left hand multi-function steering wheel (MFSW) controls. I got a right side MFSW pod on eBay as well as a MK4 airbag harness. This is a great how-to on installing a MK6 wheel into a MK4 and I am going to be following it.

*What I am trying to do is reverse engineer the button PCB inside the MFSW controls where the buttons, LED’s, and resistors are located in order to output the resistive button schematic prior to the CAN bus module (I think this is the small PCB behind the airbag that the left+right cables plug into) to a JoyConEX via USB into my CarPC.*

I found this thread on another forum where it looks like someone has already done this exact thing - but I'm having a hard time getting in contact with him because my account on that forum isn’t verified or something. I'm waiting on a reply from the webmaster I guess. (Even though I've been a member on the Centrafuse forum for a while)

So here’s what the LEFT PCB looks like (front+back)

























I count 6 buttons, 6 LEDs, 13 resistors, and one 6-wire connector. I presume that two of the wires in the connector have to be [+DC Voltage] and [Ground], while at least two of the rest of the wires have to be the resistive circuit, I read in another post that four of the wires are two 3-button resistive circuits, but I have yet to determine anything – this is a preliminary post.
Does anyone know if it is possible to find a wiring diagram or drawing of this circuit? I have not opened the right MFSW pod to compare as of yet. I could not find any information with my Google-Fu on the part numbers on the back of the pods either.

The guy on the other forum was kind of hard to understand, I don’t think English is his first language. I looked up the resistor codes using this website and I came up with 9 different resistors.

64R9 = 64.9 ohm
1001 = 1k ohm
2001 = 2k ohm
3291 = 3.29k ohm
4321 = 4.32k ohm
4751 = 4.75k ohm
5601 = 5.6k ohm
6191 = 6190 ohm
1002 = 10k ohm

I'm assuming that six of these should be assigned to the buttons, and the rest have to do with the LED circuit - but the circuit is very convoluted so I'm having trouble following the traces.

This is what the guy on the other forum stated:

http://forums.centrafuse.com/showthread.php?9486-Joycon-in-VW-Golf-multifunction-steereing-wheel



otherguy said:


> I have connected the buttons to a Joycon interface to control Centrafuse.
> What radio do you want to control? Is it Centrafuse?
> 
> What I did was:
> I removed 2 resistors from the right button board. (3,8kOhm)
> I figured out the pin-layout:
> 
> Left has
> Pin 1 = 12v
> Pin 2,3 = 2 x resistor output
> Pin 5,6 = 2 x ground
> 
> Right has:
> Pin 1 = 12v
> Pin 2,3 = 2 x resistor output
> Pin 7 = ground
> 
> Because the buttons use 4 x 3 buttons with the same resistor value I replaced 9 resistors.
> Original 1kOhm, 2kOhm, 4kOhm is used.
> I used something like 10 ohm, 30ohm, 100ohm, 240ohm, 420ohm, 10kohm, 33kohm
> 
> When you connect pins 2+3 from left and pins 2+3 from right together and the grounds a connect this to the Joycon board this should work.
> 
> I added 2 wires to the wiring-ring of my steering wheel.
> Behind the steering wheel I connected 1 wire to pin 58d = illumination at the light switch and 1 wire with a ground wire to the Joycon.
> 
> Does this help you?


I'm not sure what the heck he is talking about when referring to "replacing 9 resistors" because the values of the resistors on the board don’t match his description. The pin-out is very helpful however, and I could theoretically test this with a 12vdc power supply on my bench and the JoyCon connected to my laptop or something.

Anyone have some ideas, or possibly can get a circuit diagram or something?

Thanks!


----------



## strakele

How do you handle tuning the PS8 and RTA at the same time on that one 7" screen? I tune on a 15.6" laptop and still wish I had more screen. I can only get like half of each window on screen at a time. Going back and forth between RTA and tuning software is annoying 

Is the text and stuff clear enough to read from back in the listening position?


----------



## req

strakele said:


> How do you handle tuning the PS8 and RTA at the same time on that one 7" screen? I tune on a 15.6" laptop and still wish I had more screen. I can only get like half of each window on screen at a time. Going back and forth between RTA and tuning software is annoying
> 
> Is the text and stuff clear enough to read from back in the listening position?


of course id like more screen, and yes i have to tab between the applications. ideally id have a second screen could push the RTA onto. that is always an option in the future lol. but i dont *NEED* a laptop to do it. i just need a cable and the microphone.

the screen is SUPER clear. i wish the contrast of the PS8 software was better, it is the usual grey\black windows type look to it (the helix software was real easy to read with white and red-on-black), and it would work better if the font was bold or something. but yes i can read it from sitting back - it helps to know what you are looking for - but it is readable - even more so at night. 

the only thing that kind of sucks is that the LCD has a little glare and its a little more dificult to use a capaticance screen than i had thought due to a certain amount of finger area needing to be on the screen. i used to kind of 'flick' the resistive one with my fingernail and it was fairly accurate - so other than those minor issues - it looks awesome. 

now i just need to get this steering wheel thing figured out and ill be golden!


----------



## RocketBoots

Aside from the functionality, the new steering wheel LOOKS a lot better IMO. The flat bottom would have been cool tho.

Great build. I didn't read or follow the whole thing, but from what I read, very nice work. Sorry if you've already mentioned/discussed this (if so, just point me to the reference plz), but:

-Did you try aiming the mids more on-axis when testing? It looked like you angled them a little, and your factory location dictated the angle a bit, but those mids are small enough that you might have been able to make a pod. I know it would have been a lot of work, but, let's get real, look at your build  If you did try that, did it make any difference, or enough of one to make it worth the trouble??

-With the mid and tweet being so far apart, does it make anything sound 'weird' or disconnected or whatever?? And did you experiment with placing them closer together like a mini-monitor??

-You mentioned the Exodus as a midbass was pretty good. How much did the subs add? As has been mentioned before, in home audio, a "woofer" plays well into what a "subwoofer" would do for car audio. I love a lot of things you did with the Anarchys. The enclosures, which probably make them sound as awesome as they do; the stealth; the modified OpSoDis configuration. I'm really thinking about trying something like this. I was considering putting a flatlyne sub in a glassed enclosure sort of where you have your Anarchys, but your way may be better.

Anyways, everything came together VERY nicely!!!


----------



## JayinMI

When I started looking into building my Arduino circuit for my steering wheels I thought that it was as simple as +, - and resistors...but that wasn't the case.
There was actually a +5V circuit coming OUT of my radio, through a 4.7k Ohm resistor...then the rest was a resistor ladder to ground.

I can't seem to find the diagram from my car at the moment, but I thought I'd mention it, in case you might find it helpful...

Jay


----------



## req

RocketBoots said:


> Aside from the functionality, the new steering wheel LOOKS a lot better IMO. The flat bottom would have been cool tho.


i totally agree. but people were wanting 500~1000 for them - and some of them didnt even have airbags!! so it was a dealbreaker for me.



RocketBoots said:


> Great build. I didn't read or follow the whole thing, but from what I read, very nice work. Sorry if you've already mentioned/discussed this (if so, just point me to the reference plz), but:
> 
> -Did you try aiming the mids more on-axis when testing? It looked like you angled them a little, and your factory location dictated the angle a bit, but those mids are small enough that you might have been able to make a pod. I know it would have been a lot of work, but, let's get real, look at your build  If you did try that, did it make any difference, or enough of one to make it worth the trouble??


i spent the better part of the day putting the midranges in the car. i knew the more on-axis they could be, the better off i would be. so i kicked them out as far as i physically could - truth be told, the passenger side actually touched the bottom of the window and i had to put a piece of sound deadener behind it the pod on the door skin so that it just barely cleared the window. they are as cantered as i could make them without removing the grills again (i was not trying to do this as i had previously CA-glued them back in) and fitting the speakers with the door panel installed.



RocketBoots said:


> -With the mid and tweet being so far apart, does it make anything sound 'weird' or disconnected or whatever?? And did you experiment with placing them closer together like a mini-monitor??


honestly i could have made A-pillars. i have a second set. i had considered it for a long time. even cutting into the dashboard and putting the speakers up there. maybe ill still do that sometime in the future - but the benefits of using the oem speaker locations were a must-try for me. keeping the OEM finish, the locations already were there - and that i dont know if i have ever seen somone move the midbass to the rear and done the front stage with just the mid+tweet where people around here usually put the midbass+tweet and find a spot for the midrange.

on top of that, kick panels and high mounted tweeters are what i had previously. i know it works, and you can look around - many people do it. the issue here is that it creates something called the 'rainbow effect'. basically the sound stage is high in the middle and low at the outboard boundaries. mine was more of a see-saw. low on the left high in the middle and so-so on the right - but i feel that with the mids super wide in the door panels i gained a bit of width. on top of that, my outboard boundaries are not as low as they were before. i dont know if this is due to my midranges better off-axis response or what - but the end result is the fact that my imaging in the midrange seems better than before, and thats without anything but TA\XOVERS set.



RocketBoots said:


> -You mentioned the Exodus as a midbass was pretty good. How much did the subs add? As has been mentioned before, in home audio, a "woofer" plays well into what a "subwoofer" would do for car audio. I love a lot of things you did with the Anarchys. The enclosures, which probably make them sound as awesome as they do; the stealth; the modified OpSoDis configuration. I'm really thinking about trying something like this. I was considering putting a flatlyne sub in a glassed enclosure sort of where you have your Anarchys, but your way may be better.


honestly they can play bass. but a single anarchy has 20.3 square inches of cone area. a pair of them is only going to give you 40 square inches. according to this chart, that is less than a single 8 inch subwoofer of the same excursion. so i wouldnt say that it would push too far into the subwoofer realm. IMO there simply is not enough cone area.












RocketBoots said:


> Anyways, everything came together VERY nicely!!!


thank you sir 






JayinMI said:


> When I started looking into building my Arduino circuit for my steering wheels I thought that it was as simple as +, - and resistors...but that wasn't the case.
> There was actually a +5V circuit coming OUT of my radio, through a 4.7k Ohm resistor...then the rest was a resistor ladder to ground.
> 
> I can't seem to find the diagram from my car at the moment, but I thought I'd mention it, in case you might find it helpful...
> 
> Jay


thank you for the idea jay. my friend paul i actually sat down and started playing with the PCB yesterday after work, and i did figure some stuff out. there are SIX wires in the connector, two of these at LEAST have to have +DCV for the LED's - but i do not know what that voltage is. i certainly dont want to pop all the LED's in there by throwing it +12dcv when the circuit only takes +3dcv... that would suck haha.

so i made tiny extensions for a multimeter and plugged them into the sockets on the connector and started testing buttons. it seems that two of the pins (bottom left + middle right) work for three buttons (the bottom, the most left, and the most right) so im trying to find the two other pins that work for the middle three buttons. basically its just a resistor ladder with a button next to each resistor. 

if both sides have the same resistors - my friend paul suggested that if we just added a, lets say, 1kohm resistor to the line on the right side, the resistance would be the same as the left +1k, and that should be enough for the joycon to sense a new button. instead of desoldering the surface mount resistors and replaceing them with a higher rated one.

anyway, so far so good. when we get a little further along with testing ill see what i can do about putting a circuit diagram up.


----------



## req

some pictures of my buttons that i took.


----------



## quietfly

i love all the custom work you are putting into this steering wheel.


----------



## req

SUCCESS!

















so i just got done with some testing and i got some results!

using my trusty FLUKE179, i was able to meter out the pins. I was also able to hook it to a bench top power supply and find the LED circuit.

so here goes;

PIN 2 + PIN 6 = buttons D (1.998k ohm), E (3.908k ohm), F (1.001k ohm)
PIN 3 + PIN 6 = buttons A (1.001k ohm), B (3.911k ohm), C (1.996k ohm)

so it seems both circuits use the same resistors for the buttons. i should have labeled one group of the buttons backward, but yeah. i dont know how the VW PCB behind the airbag interprets this, but yeah.

SO - my thought is just to add a single resistor, maybe like a 5k ohm on one of the two circuits - effectively making the D,E,F circuit each value raised by 5k ohm allowing the JOYCON to see the difference in each circuit since all four circuits will be joined. so assuming the RIGHT side buttons are the same as this, 3 of the circuits will get a different resistor value, lets say a 5kohm, a 10kohm, and a 15kohm. that way each circuit of buttons will have different values, and i can program all 12 buttons through the joycon. double press and long press are options too - so i can have 12x3=36 programmable options!

suhweet. 

all thats left is to figure out how to get four wires through the steering wheel - if there arent any extras...


----------



## req

in that other thread about mounting a mk6 on a mk4, there is a picture of the steering wheel i have with the airbag off showing the connector. it looks like there is at least 7 pins for the clock spring. two have got to be for the airbag and two have got to be for the horn. im hoping that my clockspring is the same as the mk4's with the MSFW and there are just empty pins that i can borrow. im not in the mood to fit extra wires inside my clock spring LOL.

[Mk4 Golf] Fit A Mk5/mk6 Steering Wheel In A Mk4..... ***definitive Thread*** - D.I.Y Guides and How to Instructions - uk-mkivs


----------



## req

quietfly said:


> i love all the custom work you are putting into this steering wheel.


thank you sir. i really hope it pays off. the joycon should be here tomrrow so that i can test the resistive touch with just the PCB on my desktop PC


----------



## Rokusek

Looking good Andy, glad you where able to figure it all out. I should have just wired it up to a power supply yesterday while you where out. Hopefully the 5kohm resister will do the trick seperating the left from right. We will have to look into that more for sure. 

Also, Have you found any schematics for the wiring from the wheel to the oem hu? we need to find that in order to utilize those wires to connect them to the PC. IF thats even possible. I have a few other ideas for this, but will discuss with you tonight in person. Need to think them through before I speak of them. 

-PJ


----------



## JayinMI

req said:


> in that other thread about mounting a mk6 on a mk4, there is a picture of the steering wheel i have with the airbag off showing the connector. it looks like there is at least 7 pins for the clock spring. *two have got to be for the airbag and two have got to be for the horn*. im hoping that my clockspring is the same as the mk4's with the MSFW and there are just empty pins that i can borrow. im not in the mood to fit extra wires inside my clock spring LOL.


Not necessarily so. Many cars use 1 wire for the horn, and just pull ground from the frame of the steering wheel since it is grounded by being bolted to the steering column. 

If you use a resistor to "shift" the values of 1 set of buttons by say 2.7k (or whatever), you could potentially put both outputs from the buttons onto one wire (combining pins 2 and 3), and then find the other end of the wire after it comes out of the clock spring to interface with the JoyCon. This would help if you don't already have enough wires on the car side of the steering column. 

Not sure what Pin 6 does, it could be any number of things...ground, +12V or 5+ through a resistor coming from the HU to make a voltage divider.

Hope that helps.

Jay


----------



## porscheman

req said:


> SO - my thought is just to add a single resistor, maybe like a 5k ohm on one of the two circuits - effectively making the D,E,F circuit each value raised by 5k ohm allowing the JOYCON to see the difference in each circuit since all four circuits will be joined. so assuming the RIGHT side buttons are the same as this, 3 of the circuits will get a different resistor value, lets say a 5kohm, a 10kohm, and a 15kohm. that way each circuit of buttons will have different values, and i can program all 12 buttons through the joycon. double press and long press are options too - so i can have 12x3=36 programmable options!
> 
> suhweet.
> 
> all thats left is to figure out how to get four wires through the steering wheel - if there arent any extras...


 i did this in my cube, works fine. then i swapped to a newer joycon, with any of the ones you can get now you don't have to combine the circuit. mine has been rock solid since doing that, no more temperature issues at all.


----------



## JayinMI

When I went over to Pac-Audio.com to check the steering wheel control wiring for the 2003 Golf, nothing was listed. I looked at 2001 (still the same gen, right?) but it showed the steering wheel control wire in pin 11 on the non-audio plug from the factory radio...but when I looked at the instructions for newer Golf (to match your new steering wheel) it said that the steering wheels are data (CANBus, IIRC). On the few newer gen GTI's I've worked on there appears to be a module attached to the steering column that converts many of the functions of the steering column into data and transmits them about the car.

So, I'd mainly stick to working on this based on the Mk4 wiring....which, if you combine the buttons as discussed above, should be useable by reading pin 11 (above).

Are you retaining the Mk4 clock spring?

Jay


----------



## req

thanks for the replies guys.

so here is the deal. i just popped the airbag off the car and soldered the wiring harness together for the new airbag. the mk4s did NOT come with MSFW that i know of - but the passat did, and to my knowledge they us almost the same electrical system.

the mk6 has a digital canbus data converter (that i will be removing from the mk6 wheel) that combines both circuits for the left and right button packs. im going to combine all the button circuits - so i need TWO pins to go into the joycon. i need at least ONE more pin for +12v because im almost certain that the OEM clockspring\wiring does NOT have +12v thruput. so i really need three pins.

there are 5 pins in the mk4 golf\jetta (1999-2005.5) clock spring. iirc the passat has a 6 pin clock spring. right now, the airbag uses two pins from the clockspring, and the horn uses two more. i just physically looked at it. there is one exta un-used pin. the horn works by using a "ring" made of metal that loops around the back of the steering wheel, when you push down on the airbag module, there are four 'paddles' of thin metal that hover about 3cm from this ring and are made to contact by pushing in on the airbag module. this completes a circuit and activates the horn. so i dont think the horn is a 1-wire deal. if i could ground one of these pins and leave the other connected and use that extra wire by converting a 2-pin horn to a 1-pin horn that would be sweet lol - but im unsure about it.

so at this point things are not looking good. i have 1 extra pin to work with and that sucks. if i get a passat clock spring i may be able to install that and have 2 pins, but im still not getting the third pin id need for LED illumination.

pictures to come soon.


----------



## JayinMI

Not sure what kind of room you have, but here's an idea:

If the illumination works with a voltage feed and a variable negative for the dimmer side, you could feed 12v (or whatever you need it to be) in to the steering column via the LED dimmer feed, split it off to feed a voltage divider for the LED side and the other side for the steering wheel controls. Maybe?

Jay


----------



## req

JayinMI said:


> Not sure what kind of room you have, but here's an idea:
> 
> If the illumination works with a voltage feed and a variable negative for the dimmer side, you could feed 12v (or whatever you need it to be) in to the steering column via the LED dimmer feed, split it off to feed a voltage divider for the LED side and the other side for the steering wheel controls. Maybe?
> 
> Jay


id still need 2 more pins to do this because the joycon needs the circuit to be closed and both sides of the circuit fed. since it senses resistance=buttonpush if there are any other resistances (variable via the dimmer?) then it could screw with the inputs - on top of that i dont think the input of the joycon can recieve voltage, only sense resistance. i dont want to break the thing 

i found a clock spring on ebay for $11. im going to crack it open and see if i cant install another ribbon cable in there. its risky but for $11 ill see what i can do. 

so i started with my little work bench, i had the DIY open on the garage computer.









the MK6 airbag connector has an orange locking mechensim. just stick a small flat head in there and pop it away from the connector and it will unlock, and the 2 pin connector pulls away from the back of the airbag.









the MK4 harness on the left that i am going to tie into the MK6 airbag unit.









we wont be needing the MK6 connector. it has several grounds for the horn... but the horn is only a 2-wire system. more on that later. the two yellow wires (#1 and #2) are for the airbag.









you can clearly see the label on the MK6 airbag connector where it is labeled 1 and 2. mark these wires. they will be going over to the MK4 connector next.









if you have all black wires in your harness like i have, here is a picture to illustrate what wires are #1 and #2 for your mk4. the left (brown wire) is #1 and the right (blue wire) is #2.

















on the other side of our MK4 harness, youll see the 5 pin connector that goes into the clock spring. this has two pins that look different, i have labeled them #1 and #2. solder your MK6 connector onto your MK4 clock spring connector as seen here.









the other two black wires are for the horn. the horn is just like a switch. there is a solid metal loop (like coat-hanger thick) that goes around the perimeter of the back side of the air bag unit. there are four "spring tabs" that float over the loop in four quadrants. these four tabs are connected to a bunch of black wires in series - basically its one wire. the end of that metal loop connects to a second black wire. i didnt take very good pictures of this so ill draw on one for you. 









then after everything looked good and i put the rubber crap back over the wires and made sure nothing would pinch or anything, *i took my old MK4 wheel out* .









i was hoping there were more than 4 pins, but i knew it would be too good to be true.









battery disconnected when im messing with airbags. there is a detent on the spline and a detent on the steering wheel. line them up! make sure you put the nut in the middle on the same way you took it off *MARK IT BEFORE YOU UNSCREW IT* and take it off slowly so you know the orientation it came off. mine had a paint mark on it already, so i knew it was down - i *think* i read these require 57in-lbs of torque and should only be re-used 5 times. take that for what its worth.









all done with wheel install.









now all ive got to do is figure out how to get a few extra wires through the clock spring in order to wire up the joycon and the LED's in the buttons.


----------



## turbo5upra

that purple it purdy.


----------



## ErinH

Thanks to you I'm now considering a carPC for the front end. I hate you.


----------



## req

^_^

sorry erin! 



can we still be friends? 


my joycon came in the mail today. i will remove the airbag tomorrow and remove the button packs and work on setting up a program file for them.


----------



## JayinMI

How did things go with the clock spring?

Jay


----------



## quietfly

ohhh this is getting good now... i can't wait to see how it turns out


----------



## req

JayinMI said:


> How did things go with the clock spring?
> 
> Jay


i just got a delivery notice that it was delivered about an hour ago. so i will be cracking it open this week. im hoping that i can just install my own add-on ribbon cable that is the same length as the one that is already in there with 4 wires. +12v, GND, BUTTON1, BUTTON2 just so i dont have to worry about messing with any of the origional wires in the clock spring.

ive never seen anyone add wires to a clock spring. so im kind of flying by the seat of my pants here. but it had to be built and assembeled - so im assuming i should be able to hack it. i just didnt want to hack the one in my car - so i ordered a second to play with. 

we will see how it goes


----------



## ErinH

*2003 Volkswagen GTi 1.8t - Mosconi, Vifa, Exodus, Helix PDSP, IDMax, carPC *u...*

Maybe you'll get lucky and there will be extra wires in your clock spring. I added SWI buttons from the EX model civic to my LX and had to order EX buttons. I also ordered EX CS but I found out after taking my steering wheel apart the part was the same. My LX had the wires, it just didn't use them. So I was able to tap in to the harness on each end instead of adding wires.


----------



## req

gotcha. well i took off the airbag and changed the wheel - the plug that was there was a 5-pin dude, and the horn and airbag use 4 of those wires... i dont know of any MK4 jetta\golf that had SW controlls, so i doubt ill be so lucky.

i basically plan on using a 4-pin ribbon cable and matching the length of the one that is inside the clock spring and hoping there is enough extra wiggle room to allow me to add it in there. i might be able to pull it off without deploying an airbag into my face.


----------



## ErinH

Yes. Every time I reconnected the airbag harness I did so with half my body hanging outside my car and the other half under the steering wheel, in the floorboard. Just in case. Lol.


----------



## req

yeah i did the same thing when i plugged the new airbag in. i was quite nervous but i had the battery disconnected while i did it.

the thing that made me nervous is turning the key haha.

the package that was delivered yesterday was not the clock spring - so im still twiddling my thumbs.


on a second note - bluetooth A2DP throughput from my phone <android> to windows 8. i got the phone and PC to connect - and when i go into centrafuse it says it cant find bluetooth or something along those lines. id like to be able to awnser calls and push music through the phone->pc->stereo, mostly for demo purposes or long trips where i need some random tunes.

time for more research.


----------



## ErinH

You know, the e3io carpc looks pretty slick. You haven't had a chance to play with that, have you?


----------



## quietfly

ErinH said:


> You know, the e3io carpc looks pretty slick. You haven't had a chance to play with that, have you?


Why did i have to google that....... ugh.... thanks Erin..... i think i'm about to "misplace" another mortgage payment......... it does look slick and it's less than the full buggy NEX DD heads......


----------



## quietfly

"E3iO test their systems with Centrafuse front end software, but is not being included with their custom systems anymore because of Centrafuse policies. If you want to incorporate Centrafuse in your Car PC, you must purchase the software directly from Centrafuse website."


----------



## req

ErinH said:


> You know, the e3io carpc looks pretty slick. You haven't had a chance to play with that, have you?


a little birdie tells me that a certain well known forum member around these parts is about to order an e3io carpc, possibly today. ill wait for his feedback before i let any cats and any bags out of whatever containers they were in - but yeah. maybe you and him could have a chat once he gets it? he is kind of far away from your location, but he may be interested in having it "tested" by a very well respected member of the forum? i dont know 




quietfly said:


> "E3iO test their systems with Centrafuse front end software, but is not being included with their custom systems anymore because of Centrafuse policies. If you want to incorporate Centrafuse in your Car PC, you must purchase the software directly from Centrafuse website."


yeah but centrafuse is like $70 - IMO not a bad deal considering it will fool 99% of people out there into thinking its a regular headunit haha. "what brand is that radio??", "i didnt know volkswagen mk4 came with an indash nav headunit??" i get that all the time. haha!


----------



## [email protected]

*sigh*...

Yeah, they are 10% off right now. Today is the last day. 

I think the focus of the thread should be more like "how many people want to kill Andy for showing them the e3io site". 

I am still deciding if I am going to pull the trigger on it. It will mean selling my 9255 which I don't really want to do..






req said:


> a little birdie tells me that a certain well known forum member around these parts is about to order an e3io carpc, possibly today. ill wait for his feedback before i let any cats and any bags out of whatever containers they were in - but yeah. maybe you and him could have a chat once he gets it? he is kind of far away from your location, but he may be interested in having it "tested" by a very well respected member of the forum? i dont know


----------



## [email protected]

Erin, we could be bad influences on each other and both decide to buy one while they are on sale!!!


----------



## ErinH

lol. yea... we could. but I have zero dollars to buy anything with. so luckily that's holding me up.


----------



## quietfly

I just closed on a new house last Wednesday, and my nights have been spent ripping out carpet and installing engineered wood floors. My wife is going to kill me if she finds out i'm planning on getting this...... ugh...


----------



## req

i didnt suggest anything to anyone 0_o

dont put me in the middle of this!


----------



## REGULARCAB

Love how your "nonsuggestion" was followed up by a video... Now my cheap ass even wants one.


----------



## [email protected]

Hmm. I am concerned about win8 for some pc software I would want to use, but if I don't have win 8 I would loose the gestures, which looks to be a very convenient thing?


----------



## quietfly

[email protected] said:


> Hmm. I am concerned about win8 for some pc software I would want to use, but if I don't have win 8 I would loose the gestures, which looks to be a very convenient thing?


I think the gestures are part of what make it worth while. what software couldn't you run in windows xp mode under 8.1


----------



## quietfly

req said:


> i didnt suggest anything to anyone 0_o
> 
> dont put me in the middle of this!



You sir are the definition of an enabler......


----------



## quietfly

[email protected] said:


> *sigh*...
> 
> Yeah, they are 10% off right now. Today is the last day.
> 
> I think the focus of the thread should be more like "how many people want to kill Andy for showing them the e3io site".
> 
> I am still deciding if I am going to pull the trigger on it. It will mean selling my 9255 which I don't really want to do..


Joey, 
This could be considered a business expense for you and probably would be tax deductible....

and it is the LAST DAY of 10% off..... a new DD for the Pickup that could run the tuning software native and Centrafuse, with CentraFuseX coming out in a few...


----------



## [email protected]

quietfly said:


> I think the gestures are part of what make it worth while. what software couldn't you run in windows xp mode under 8.1


tuning software for the 6to8... 

I have heard that it may or may not work on 8.1???


----------



## [email protected]

I like the way you think!!!!!




quietfly said:


> Joey,
> This could be considered a business expense for you and probably would be tax deductible....
> 
> and it is the LAST DAY of 10% off..... a new DD for the Pickup that could run the tuning software native and Centrafuse, with CentraFuseX coming out in a few...


----------



## req

i know all the dsp software ive used works perfectly in windows 8, but its only been the helix software and the arc audio software


----------



## [email protected]

Maybe it's a sign.. I went to the e3io site and the discount isn't there anymore.. I took a screen shot of my order and the time/date on my pc and I will email them and see what they say....


----------



## req

right on! 

still waiting for my clock spring. i found a spool of ribbon cable that ive got in my wire cupboard, but its solid core and not stranded, so i dont think i want to use it for this. im going to search around a bit for some suitable ribbon that is thin and long enough. i may just stitch together some IDE cables LOL.


----------



## ErinH

would cat5 cable work, or is it not flexible enough?


----------



## [email protected]

wouldn't solid core be ok for that? The clockspring I fixed in a volvo used solid traces on a filament, wouldn't that be basically the same idea? 




req said:


> right on!
> 
> still waiting for my clock spring. i found a spool of ribbon cable that ive got in my wire cupboard, but its solid core and not stranded, so i dont think i want to use it for this. im going to search around a bit for some suitable ribbon that is thin and long enough. i may just stitch together some IDE cables LOL.


----------



## req

well yeah thats the idea. solid traces on a capton or other non-conductive flexible substrate to make it thin as possible like the cables in LCD monitors or laptops... but it will be flexing back and forth a lot. the stuff i have is kind of stiff. i think an IDE ribbon cable is much more flexible and thinner than the stuff ive got. i may add a few more wires in the clock spring just for ****s and gigs while im in there. you know. just in case. maybe ill put some other LED's to indicate pc operation or something hehe.

this looks like it would do the trick, but i would have to cut it in to a thinner strip and i can get it in a variety of lengths.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camera-CSI-...40395017973&hash=item20e4fc9c94#ht_538wt_1123

ill crack open the OEM clockspring and see what im dealing with before i make any decisions.


----------



## BowDown

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10648 

I've had good experiences with that cable.. splicing IDE cables that are going to be wrapped is not a great idea.


----------



## req

thanks for the recommendation justin.

so i got the clock spring in the mail just now and i ripped it open. there is a center 'disc-donut' that locks the front\back together, and then tabs around the permieter that lock the front at back together. the center disc-dount has to come out first and is in there tight. then the tabs around the outside come apart. there are a set of 'bearing rollers' that the clockspring wire kind of goes through. there is a 5-wire ZIF cable in there, kind of a plastic with copper leads down it. the same kind that are found inside a laptop or a lcd monitor or something.


























so here is my plan. i found another clockspring on ebay for like ten bucks. im going to take the second clock spring, and put the first clock spring wires INSIDE the second housing making a total of TEN wires. im going to figure out how to terminate the second row of wires on each side - and then we are golden.

ive never heard of somone adding wires to a clock spring before - so this is cool.




the big thing that sucks - like all things we do around these parts...


----------



## ErinH

You know, I was actually going to ask you if you had enough spots in the harness to simply add another set of wires from another clock spring. Guess we are two peas in a pod. Keep us updated!


On second though, is there not a junkyard you can visit to look for an extra CS? I'd imagine most have the airbag deployed but the wires would be fine.


----------



## req

oh yeah im sure, but its supposed to rain all week here with thunderstorms starting right now, so the new one will get here tuesday for $13 and i dont have to go into a yard and sit in a car thats been out there for who knows long when its 90* out.

so yeah. hopefully this works


----------



## ErinH

$13 ain't bad. Makes sense to me.


----------



## [email protected]

ErinH said:


> You know, I was actually going to ask you if you had enough spots in the harness to simply add another set of wires from another clock spring. Guess we are two peas in a pod. Keep us updated!


I thought the same thing too....


----------



## req

so i got an email from Andrew Lim (owner of chalkboard electronics) about the dimming circuit for the 7" LCD panel. he said there is a light sensing diode that adjust the resistance of a circuit that the LCD senses and dims the backlight appropriately.

my thought is to build a circuit that senses voltage from 0-12 DCV. when at OPEN CIRCUIT, it will be 100% bright, when at 12dcv it will put out 50% bright. i am not sure how my dimmer adjustment works, i assume it lowers the voltage and lowers the brightness of the LEDs in the dashboard, so at a certain voltage, lets guess and say 2vdc it would be 25% bright.

these numbers are all guesstimates. but it seems easy enough. i just have to look into some circuit design that would SENSE voltage and OUTPUT resistance and put it in place of the light-sense diode that is coming in the mail from chalk-elec.



anybody reading a circuit design engineer? lol.


the  on the right is the circuit i need to design. he said that ANY voltage going INTO the dim circuit on the LCD will damage it. so it needs to be strictly an adjustable resistnace output based on an adjustable voltage input. my first thought is using a relay based on the headlight switch to initiate the  circuit. but i am not sure how i would vary the output based on the dashboard dimmer voltage. im also not sure if the headlight switch output is constant 12vdc or if it varies with the alternator. im going to assume its always 12v though. i have not measured it yet.


----------



## diy.phil

^the relay will be easy for a 2 step (high low) brightness control. For a variable brightness it'll have to be a dpot (digital potentiometer/resistor). Usually those are made by Dallas-Maxim, Analog Devices, Microchip Tech and others. Most parts are messy requiring the up/down/pushbutton switches or serial/I2C/SPI interface. What we just want is a simple "analog-input digital potentiometer", but not sure if there's such a chip/module/miniboard. The alternative is to put an ADC or small/cheap microcontroller with ADC to control a dpot chip. But this small project suddenly becomes a big project lol. Have fun there!!


----------



## req

thanks for the wisdom phil. i have not heard of such a device either, so i assumed it would have to be made custom.

BUT i felt froggy, so i replied to chalk-elec and ive been in a dialogue with them today. ive got good news.



ace said:


> Hello Andy,
> That is very nice installation to your car. Good job!
> I think for your case, you can try to replace light sensor with a potentiometer so you can adjust the brightness manually. But DO NOT feed any voltage into the light sensor pin as it will damage the display.
> Good luck.
> Regards,
> Andrew





ace said:


> Hello Andrew,
> 
> Please, let me clarify a little bit regarding backlight control.
> Actually, you can use knob (variable resistor) to control brightness.
> You should get 5K variable resistor and connect it between pins that
> are used by ambient light sensor (J9). One of these pins (pin 1,
> rectangle pad) is 5V, another is Sense pin of microcontroller that
> measures voltage from 0 to 5V. Ambient light sensor works in
> light-resistance mode, it means that it changes resistance based on
> light intensity. So, you can easy substitute it with standard variable
> resistor.
> 
> It is also possible to use 12V instead of 5V, but in this case you
> will need to change resistor R22 from 470R to 2K. After that you can
> feed 0..12V to Sense pin of J9. Of course, any of these modifications
> are on your risk!
> 
> With best wishes,
> Ace.





REQ said:


> OK let me make sure I'm hearing this correct.
> If I feed pin J9 with 0-12 DCV (and change R22 from 470ohms to 2kohms) the backlight will automatically dim in response?
> How does the dim respond to voltage?
> More voltage = brighter display
> Less voltage = dimmer display
> Open circuit = full brightness
> If that is the case, this will be awesome.
> That k you for your help!
> Andy





ace said:


> Hello Andy,
> 
> After you change R22, you should provide voltage to pin2 (round pad) of J9.
> 0V is low brightness, 12V is max brightness. Open circuit is nod
> advisable because it will be open contact of ADC converter - it can
> take any voltage from EMI.





ace said:


> Hello Andrew,
> 
> Attached is screenshot of schematic that is responsible for backlight control.
> For your case you can use parallel connection of dimming rheostat to
> R2 resistor, but of course values of R21 and R22 must be calculated
> based on your rheostat value.
> Take note that U5 is powered by 3.3V, so input voltage on ADC pin
> (RB5) must be less or equal 3.3V.



okay. so it looks like the sensing circuit inside the LCD should be able to do the job. but im having a hard time understanding the last part. im not seeing a U5 or an R2? i dont know why i should be concerned with the 3.3v?

this is what i am coming up with based on the conversations above for automatically dimming the LCD backlight based on a voltage input to the light sense circuit. i also sent this picture to Ace to see what he thinks.










ideas?


----------



## ErinH

sorry for the dumb question, but why do you need to have a circuit? doesn't it automatically sense the light and control the display brightness? is this not working for you or do you wish to have more control over the level of dimming?


----------



## req

im trying to hook it into my headlight switch and\or my dimmer for my interior lights so the LCD backlight automatically dims when the headlights come on, and i can lower the brightness based on the dimmer.


*so i got an email from ace, the diagram above is wrong, dont do that lol.*



ace said:


> See attached:
> - you marked wrong resistor, it should be R22 instead of R2
> - when switch is off, you will get minimal possible brightness
> 
> I can change behavior in firmware to reverse brightness control, then
> you will get max. brightness for turned off switch. This will also
> change 12V to low brightness, and 0V to max. brightness. Therefore,
> you will need to get resistance from second shoulder of your var.
> resistor to get brightness control as per your request.
> 
> I would suggest that you will solder first this circuit and try it,
> then let me know what you get with brightness, and what should be
> changed. After that I can modify LCD firmware to fit your needs.


the above wont work, because if the switch is OFF that means it is bright outside and i need the backlight to be max brightness. with that configuration above, the backlight would be basically OFF during the daytime... not good. everything else would be perfect however.

the support im getting from chalkelec is awesome. i can not thank dr. ace enough. im going to measure some stuff in the dimmer circuit of my car and we are going to figure this out


----------



## req

sorry for the crappy photos btw.

ladies and gentlemen. may i present to you the ONLY 10 wire mk4 volkswagen golf, jetta, gti, gli, or passat clock spring.











so once i got the second clock spring, i just popped it open and took the ribbon out and removed it from the connectors at the end.










i tried a few arrangements of the cable, but working with the orientation of the OEM plugs i need it to be on the inboard side of both the front (wheel) and the back (stalk) side connectors.

this was a test fit with the ribbon on the OUTBOARD side, and it would not work that way, but it did go together and i knew i could get this to work.










so once i decided where they needed to come out, i took the top and bottom half, and cut a slot at the base of each one with a dremel tool.


































then i put the ribbon on the inboard side of the STALK connector, and let the extra ribbon slide through the slot as i pushed the connector through the chassis of the clock spring.










then i clamped the ribbon on and bent the other side of the ribbon the correct way that it would poke up the slot on the WHEEL side of the clock spring and come out the second slot i had made. then wound it up and put the plastic bearing device in.



















as i slid the WHEEL chassis on, the ribbon was gently fed through my slot and pokes out through the other side of the clock spring!




































now all i have to do is solder the wires on, hot glue each side down so it has little play, maybe put some kind of disconnect on there and wire it up!

YAHOO


----------



## JayinMI

Great job!

Jay


----------



## req

thanks jay!

my mother in law will be here tomorrow for a until the 26th i think. i dont know if ill be able to pop the wheel off and program the buttons while she is here though.

so keep your eyes peeled, ill have this working in no time!!!

all this work for nobody to notice once im done lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Awesome! Good job!

You will be able to sleep at night now knowing you did it.. Who cares what other people know! 

I don't know if I can wait until the 26th for a conclusion to this, though. Can you send them out for pedicures or something??


----------



## req

a concusion on the 26th? lol! i doubt it!!

i still need to get in an take some readings on the voltages\resistances of the lighting circuit so that i can get it working with the LCD backlight...

either way, things are going really well 

so, pictures of stuff to tide you over for a while.


----------



## JayinMI

OK, I have to ask. What does the license plate mean? 

Jay


----------



## req

lol.

Transducer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## JayinMI

That was what I thought, but I wasn't sure. Makes sense, tho.

Jay


----------



## REGULARCAB

So you do still have those subs mounted on the baffle like that. If only I was willing to weld on my new car.


----------



## quietfly

That is pretty dang impressive. now on to the next great obstacle......


----------



## req

REGULARCAB said:


> So you do still have those subs mounted on the baffle like that. If only I was willing to weld on my new car.


there is nothing welded to the car.

i built a bracket that i designed and spot welded together while it was bolted inside the car near the tail lights and the rear seat belt bracket - *but it is not permanently welded in*. then the subwoofer baffle is bolted to these two brackets. everything is removeable. nothing is permanent 

//edit//


req a while ago said:


> this is clearly visable here;
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1215650-post78.html
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1218135-post86.html
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1218136-post87.html


----------



## REGULARCAB

:bowdown: that's pretty sick, guess I glossed over that part.


----------



## JayinMI

You should work on the steering wheel thing. Just tell your mother in law that you have hundreds of fans waiting for you to finish this! lol

Jay


----------



## req

maybe i could... i gotta take the airbag back out so i can remove the buttons, then i need to wire the buttons into the clock spring, and the clock spring into the joycon module, and then plug the joycon module into my desktop and program everything. after that i need to run the wires behind the airbag to each button module and affix them smartly to the wheel and the clock spring. then i need to run 2 wires from the back side of the clock spring to the dimmer switch and the joycon that will be behind the LCD somewhere methinks. then plug the joycon in and upload the file to the carpc from google drive.

but i think its going to rain all week 

sigh.


----------



## req

ok so for sure this is what the button sets are;

*mk6 (mkvi) 12 button (2011 golf, gti, r, jetta, gli) manufacturer steering wheel (MFSW) control pin outs for joycon EXR and a carPC.
*
(for the ease of google search for people who may be looking in the future)

left button set
(circuit 1) pin 2 + pin 6 = vol up, vol down, phone
(circuit 2) pin 3 + pin 6 = back, forward, microphone

right button set
(circuit 3) pin 2 + pin 4 = up, ok, down
(circuit 4) pin 3 + pin 4 = page back, page forward, return

so i need to go find some resistors in my tool kit out in the garage that are big enough difference for the joycon to sense it. im thinking the resistors in the diagram below could use a 5k ohm (R13), a 10k ohm (R14), and a 15k ohm (R15)... that should do the trick so each circuit has its own resistance.

i just made this diagram for ease of anyone doing this mod in the future.










now i gotta find the LED pins for the right side (the connector and pinout is different) and some resistors! 

took this picture earlier today;


----------



## req

so i had a few momemnts last night to wire some things up to my breadboard and test the button pushes with the added resistors. i think i need to use a higher scale. i used a 1.2, 1.5, and 1.8 kohm resistors and i dont think that it is enough added resistance for the software to render the individual buttons in the joycon software, but i didnt have time to play with the software to be sure.










so far so good. i need to test the right hand side for what pins light the LED's but other than that and upping the resistor value im almost ready to install these bad boys!


----------



## [email protected]

gimmie my strippers back!!!!!

hahaa....


----------



## porscheman

from what i saw in my use of the joycon, farther apart is better. i dont know how far your temp swings but my original set up worked fine till it got cold then all of the buttons were out of band.


----------



## req

ahh, thanks for the input porscheman. 


quick question - how high of a resistance can it measure? i mean i could put 1k, 3k, and 5k on them - i just had a handy bag with 1.2 1.5 and 1.8 for testing.


----------



## porscheman

it was a fairly wide band. id have to take the car and look, after going larger i havent had to touch it in about 2 years. the cube has a 3 wire system in it, 1 out and 2 back. i think i added a 5k or so on one of the loops to split them way apart


----------



## req

gotcha. thanks for the feedback. thats what i pan on doing but ive got 4 loops. i just need to find out what the resolution and max resistance is of the joycon so i dont go too high with it. i dont know if 10kohm is beyond its limits. im hoping that ill have this all done this weekend.


----------



## req

so i decided to meter out all the buttons because the trial and error method with resistors was being troublesome. turns out its because all the resistances are SUPER high. apparently the higher the resistnace of the button loops the tougher it is for the joycon to be accurate - its basically a glorified multimeter. the lowest resistance is 445kohm and the highest is 1.241mohm ugh.










either way im working it out...


//edit


after going through the trouble to get all the resistor values put onto the circuit board, and then start metering out these things - i have come to the conclusion that this bread board is adding TONS of resistance to this ciruit - and even though its WAY easier to use this, ill just solder it all together and then try adding the resistors again lol.

i was pulling my hair out for a minute there...


----------



## req

ok. so some sort of an update! (ill post a working video here soon. give me a break, im tired.)

with the help of rokusek, we made some progress.



















i had to file a notch here to allow space for my extra clock spring wires to come through.





































took some stuff apart to facilitate the wiring. i just hooked the LED circuit to the dimmer switch so it adjusts brightness with all the rest of the dashboard lights










this is blurry, but basically i soldered the wires to both side of the clock spring, and they are kind of hanging around as i reassemble everything. it was raining on and off most of the day so i was trying to move quickly.



















wrapped the wires in electrical tape so that they wouldnt short out on the frame of the steering wheel. if anyone attempts this in a VW - pay attention to the YELLOW wheel inside the clockspring through the tiny window at the bottom left of the center bolt. that shows that the clock spring is aligned to the center and the vehicles wheels should also be aligned to the center.










all soldered up and buttons installed.










airbag back in










here it had started raining again - but i found out *IF YOU HAVE A CHALKBOARD ELECTRONICS SCREEN AND YOU ARE FLASHING THE FIRMWARE - BE FOREWARNED THAT THE DISPLAY WILL NOT WORK DURING THIS PROCESS*. you will need to have a second display in order to apply the new firmware! i didnt know this, and the only other display with a DVI cable that did not have the extra 4 pins (because my motherboard is a jerk) was a 24" widescreen LOL. so thats what we used to ser this whole thing up.










the steering wheel control is in. but only the driver side buttons so far.

the firmware for the LCD is updated to 1.5

the light sensor is installed and working properly. after chatting with dr lim about it, using voltage input isnt a viable option based on the design of the backlight circuit. *thank you Joenaz2003 for the diode*, i really appreciate you getting one with your order for me!

i did a bunch of work today and got everything buttoned up, but i wasnt properly motivated to take a video, so here is one that i put together the other day of the control working on my test bench.







last but not least, we built some sweet desk chair adapter plates for rokuseks' room. all-in-all a very productive day.


----------



## damonryoung

Nice work!! That's awesome!!


----------



## robolop

DUDE


----------



## [email protected]

Man, some awesome stuff happening here!!!!


----------



## ErinH

Very cool!


----------



## req

just a quick video i shot on my lunch break showing that the control is in and that it works. also at the end i showed the light sensing circuit. i forgot to show that the display functions as it should in windows 8 with the new firmware update though.






so thats about it 

thanks for the props guys!!!


----------



## strakele

Nice dude. Just as good (better?) than it would have been from the factory. Well done.


----------



## diy.phil

That's very nice!!


----------



## quickaudi07

Very nice...  have you tried xbmc software that we have talked about???


----------



## req

not yet man, i plan on doing some more testing with UI and software - but i wanted to get the windows 8 firmware done and make sure the whole thing worked before i started playing with softare first 

thanks for the kind words everyone


----------



## [email protected]

baller! You had me at 18's........


----------



## req

they are not polished or painted yet. the 'PONTIAC' is still yet to be weld-filled and smoothed, but here is a preview.



















they should be finished this week. all 5 of them.


----------



## Rokusek

Super excited!!!


----------



## captainobvious

should look great on the GTi


----------



## req

thanks guys


----------



## quietfly

Dang thats some good progress there!!!!


----------



## Orion525iT

Build looks amazing!

Any more thoughts about the rear mounted midbass? I know you got your hands full with everything else, but I was curious as to whether you had more time to play with that arrangement. 

I think you should go bigger, with less displacement. You know you want to fit some 12"s . You got the space, and you only need about 1 cu ft for many of the drivers. It would only need to be a modest driver, not much displacement, lower distortion, and more linear BL. It might help with the localization.


----------



## HertzGuy

Holy moley dude.

This thread has been freakin' epic.

Epic. No other word. From all your updates and replies throughout the years. The madness of 2 15s on a baffle over the rear deck, to then 2 18s! Craziness. When I had my Mk5 I thought about doing a similar setup, but this guy at this car shop I knew told me "no way, don't do it, it won't work". But sir, you have proved him wrong!

This has been an amazing read, started reading 4days ago and couldn't stop!! I truly wish I could hear this, I can't even imagine how it sounds with those 18s. 

In a few posts back you mentioned you "worked" for the navy. You no longer do??


----------



## req

hey there forum! thanks for the kind words Orion525iT and HertzGuy 

sorry ive been absent for a bit. starting school and working full time, other things on the table... life happens.

but i got my wheels. i went to H2O International over the weekend but i had to leave early due to extra work requirements. 

ive got to get new tires for it with a proper profile. i have to fix the front offset due to the caliper clearance issue that i did not forsee. i have to get some kind of adjustable suspension to make it just right. so those are things on the list.


























i also brushed my roof rack faring.












as far as comments about the rear midbass, im honestly satisfied with it. could it be better? yes. would it do awesome in competition? prolly not. it has great impact and almost all the time i dont notice it. the midrange\tweeter are so much more important for placement than the midbass it is not even funny. i feel that the midrange and tweeter sound good in the spots they are in. there is a little rainbow from the midranges, but unless they are mounted high its really unavoidable in my expierence.

in all honesty, i am very satisfied with how it works together. i just need to hunker down and get some tuning done one of these days. ive got more pictures of the wheels. maybe ill upload them sometime.


----------



## casey

just saw your wheels pop up on my FB feed. I didnt know Alex at Wheelflip did them. Hell I didnt know he was that well known haha. 

Glad you had fun at H20i. I had some friends go up there. Not sure who has the loot to drive an F40 to a meet like that, but Im jealous, minus the wheels they chose lol


----------



## req

haha yea man 

some random dude sent me a message on facebook asking if he could post my wheels. he said he had seen them somewhere that i had posted and wanted to know if it was ok lol.

i assumed at some point they would get some internet traction 

h2o was a ton of fun - except that i had to drive back saturday night because i had to work at 7am. i was not happy since i was supposed to have the whole weekend off. stupid government work.


----------



## Hanatsu

Really nice!

Love the steering wheel mod, great work. Those rims are really special as well, I like it


----------



## req

thanks dude, that means a lot coming from somone as esteemed as yourself in the vdub SQ community haha!


----------



## quickaudi07

Very nice req. I like how they look. And the mod is awsome...  i just pulled my stuff out of the car.


----------



## captainobvious

Damn, those look sweet Andy. Right at home on the gti too.


----------



## AccordUno

Lower It!!!


----------



## Lunchbox89

That's a sick ass whip bro. Good job.


----------



## req

thanks everyone 

it means a lot, really!

i just got a set of coilovers for CHEAP. they are raceland ultimos, i wouldnt have bought them if i didnt get them for this cheap. msrp for them is $400+shipping, i got them never used and unopened for $250 delivered to my door. a local guy had an R32 and bought the wrong system lol.










ive got to sort out the fitmet of the front wheels due to the calipers being too big (not enough clearance) and screwing with my offset so i can fix the poke in the front. then ive got to roll the fenders before i can dump it. im planning on griding a few millimeters off of the caliper and maybe having the backface of the rim shaved a little bit. with a small stretch on a different set of tires should do the trick.


----------



## AccordUno

Good find bro.. Maybe one day we can meet up at SOWO or other shows..


----------



## req

yeah dude. i make it a point to go to H2Oi every year, i have not been to sowo but i heard its way better than H2Oi, but its 6+ hours versus 3 hours for me. i hope to make it to sowo in the next few years for sure!


----------



## rton20s

If those are anything like the Racelands for the xB, go ahead and pull the "helper" springs out of the front.


----------



## req

LOL i dont know if ill be able to get away with it that low!! it is my daily driver too you know hahah. in all reality i want bags, but i dont know if that will ever happen.

btw - anyone who is on instagram, catch me at *@R4N63R*


----------



## SO20thCentury

Damn, Req- you killit with the details! All the little **** we look at in our cars all the time and think "I could improve that by doing ____" but never get to it, you nailed it all down. And did it beautifully- I love that unobtrusive but super-tricked out stuff. 
The whack-you-upside-the-head wheels and green accents are freekin awesome without going too far.
And thanks for introducing me to AYBRB2U


----------



## req

LOL. all your base is OLD internet jokes. like before youtube level stuff  your're welcome!

thanks for the compliments. its kind of sad going to shows and people walking right past something that would otherwise be way cool - but they cant see it so they don't know its there. I love that aspect of it, being kind of a sleeper you know?

ive got the car in the shop right now getting the bumper fixed. I ran over something - like a sandbag maybe that fell off the back of a truck in the middle of a 55mph 4 lane highway during rush hour. so it should look even better when it gets some new bumper+paint! on top of that - I picked up a new rear 337 lip and 337 side skirts that should finish out the exterior styling, as well as an airbag suspension that I have a cool idea for install wise.

when I get a litte further along ill post some stuff - but nothing new on the stereo front


----------



## captainobvious

Sweet. Now will I see you out at some comps this year??


----------



## SO20thCentury

People can walk past and not see those 18s!?!? You did say somewhere you would grill them but I don't remember seeing a picture...?


----------



## Kjekz

Great work so far and nice inspiration for my own golf.
Very tempted to try out a MK7 steering wheel and see if i can get the controls to work. Should be similar to your MK6 wheel


----------



## quality_sound

If you're going to try, I like the MkVI wheel better. I think moving the track buttons to the right side was pointless. If I'm going to use my right hand I'll just use the HU. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JayinMI

do they drive on the right side of the car in Norway? Might be different for him?


----------



## quality_sound

I thought the only countries that drive on the left side of the road were Japan, Australia, and The UK. If he drives on the other side as U.S. it would still be weird, IMO. The MkVII puts volume and track on different sides of the wheel. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JayinMI

I can never remember which countries are "backwards." It wouldn't bother me if they were on different sides of the wheel. Chrysler products are like that. But on my car they're both on the left.

Jay


----------



## quality_sound

I just don't see the point of audio controls on the side next to the steering wheel. Kind of defeats the purpose. IMO


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JayinMI

More convenient when used with a carpc or tablet?

Jay


----------



## req

captainobvious said:


> Sweet. Now will I see you out at some comps this year??


im not sure about that man. im still waiting on my K-audio group buy tweeters lol.



SO20thCentury said:


> People can walk past and not see those 18s!?!? You did say somewhere you would grill them but I don't remember seeing a picture...?


haha, well the window tint does help. I mean when I open the hatch people usually 
exclaim "holy ****". maybe 80% of them lol. to be followed up by "what are those, fifteens?" then ive got to tell them they are 18's and explain what kind and so forth. the carPC is also something people cant understand or recognize, as well as the full interior swap. it is just very inconspicuous and not flashy so people don't see it when there are cars with candy paint and body kits with flashy painted fiberglass speaker installs two cars down.



Kjekz said:


> Great work so far and nice inspiration for my own golf.
> Very tempted to try out a MK7 steering wheel and see if i can get the controls to work. Should be similar to your MK6 wheel


I would assume it would be similar, but interfacing it to a radio youd need to buy a canbus interface module - or hope the canbus signal sent through the mk7 wheel would have the same signals to feed a mk5 or mk6 system - and I don't know if anyone has had the balls to feed a new wheel system into an old system to check for backwards-compatibility lol. that is assuming you've got a mk5 or newer. if you've got a mk4, then I would almost guarantee that there is no canbus interface for the MSFW at least to the OEM monsoon system. if you have an aftermarket radio that uses a resistive 2-wire input, then you could just get a JOYcon like I got and feed it that way. please post your findings when you do it, id be glad to give advice once I see what you are dealing with. feel free to PM me when you get started with it 



I still have not figured out what im going to do about the RH MSFW buttons. id love to be able to use up\down\left\right\enter to sort folders in my media software instead of using the touch screen. that would be glorious, but the circuitry is different on the RH side and it screws up the LH side. so I still have to work that out.

I don't know why VW would switch the vol\track to opposite sides. seems kind of a stupid layout IMO.


on another track- I got a new R32 front bumper, two new fenders, a set of side skirts, and a 337 edition rear lip. the fenders\bumper +paint were part of the insurance claim from hitting that debris. so I found the skirts and rear lip, and while the front end is getting paint ill have those two painted at the same time. 

rear lip will be paint matched with a single exhaust cutout (instead of black plastic) to look like this;









side skirts will match the rear lip depth and meet up with the R32 front bumper as well;









I should be getting the car back next week sometime. the next order of business is to figure out how to tuck my front wheels so I can install the air ride system.


----------



## JayinMI

Just needs a little camber. Like this:












LOL.

Please don't do that. 

Jay


----------



## Kjekz

Thanks!

Will definetly pm you if i bump into any trouble!

In norway we drive on the left side, but i dont have a HU so doesnt matter which side i have the controls on, since nothing is close to the phone in my pocket


----------



## quality_sound

Ahhhhh, then definitely go with the wheel you like. There are some badass ones available in Europe. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vidar

I've the same type of car (although an R32), but not the skills you have! It's so very interesting and fun to read and watch something I know so well in real life. I think it makes me appreciate the work more, or something. 

Great job on the steering wheel! I don't dare to fiddle with newer airbags in this old car. I'm thinking one doesn't really know it works without crashing and live.

Love the böser too. Not too much, just the right amount of bös-ness.


----------



## req

thanks Vidar! I know exactly what you mean, I try to go to car shows and what not but my car never really stands out because its OEM+ look, people don't realize I did a whole interior swap and have a carpc and all this stuff until they look closer. I wish I had bought an R32 instead of a GTi all time time though, so im jealous that you've got one and I don't 

I do not know if the airbag will deploy in the case of a crash, hopefully ill never have to find out 0_0 ... but ive got no airbag light, so that's good.

so the car is in the shop, prolly has the door off and windows being removed for paint. im having them fix a few scratches and what not while they paint the front bumper. it will be much more of an eye-catcher now that its going to have a lip kit and skirts to round out the exterior look... then when the air bag suspension goes in people will take a closer look hehe.



























on a side note, I finally installed my second pair of incriminator audio flatlyne 18's in my attic as an infinite baffle manifold. yeah, it is impressive watching a movie with real bass. it needs some EQ I think, but for now its awesome. Rokusek are working on finishing a grill for it, most likely it will be done this weekend.


----------



## Vidar

req said:


> thanks Vidar! I know exactly what you mean, I try to go to car shows and what not but my car never really stands out because its OEM+


I know how it is.  If the persons looking at my car don't really know the mk4 Golf, they don't see anything special.

The only thing you need to be jealous of, regarding GTI/R32, is the sound it makes and the instant bottom end torque. The GTI is already forced induction and a lot of pounds lighter. Makes for a better driver's car. If one's into that.


----------



## Rokusek

Where are those updated pictures meng?


----------



## CTYSLKR

Just wanted my first post to go to an awesome build. Thanks for all the info. Sweet set up and car!


----------



## req

thank you CTYSLKR! your words do mean a lot to me. motivation to keep this updated and making it as good as i can. welcome to the forum!

a little update. i was able to catch an amazing score. i already have updated my interior with Recaro GLi seats in the past and do a full black interior swap. what i have been looking for is an unmolested MK4 R32 that i would be able to snag the interior from, with little such luck over the course of the last few years.

reason being, the GLi seats are for a 4 door and are not heated. my wife missed the heated seats, and i missed the fact that the golf seats roll forward for access to the back seats. the GLi seats do not have this function due to the extra 2 doors. gaining access to the rear seats goes like so - slide seat rails all the way up, then roll a knob so the seat back tilts forward so there is a sliver of room to scoot through. then reverse the process. what a pita.

the R seats have a lever that unlocks the seat rails and rotates the whole seat forward in seconds - very nice. a feature that is very awesome once its no longer an option.

so an acquaintance of mine had his R32 VR6 engine get hydrolocked by his "friend" while he was on deployment. he owed too much money on the car and was afraid to file through insurance due to the car being totaled and taken. he is upside down on his loan and the car is worth a fraction of what it would be to sell and make it up - on top of that he just got boned on his divorce (no pun intended) by his ex-wife and the bank wont give him a loan to cover the remainder of his car payment if some one were to buy the car outright for 1\4 of what he owes. most likely the car is going to get repo'd and there isnt much he can do about it. so he sold me the whole interior.











































































on another note, we got my IB 18" incriminator audio flatlyne install up in the attic. i need to fix some things around the house because they are vibrating in every room when the bass hits real hard haha 



















the car is STILL in the shop getting paint and all, it should have been painted yesterday and will cure over the weekend. next week im going out on some boats for a 5" gun shoot calibration and test basically tuesday through the following monday so its okay if they take their time and reassemble everything correctly. more updates when i get back and put in a few hours. i think ill be taking the headliner out and getting it ready for the digital airlift V2 suspesion while im at it


----------



## Kjekz

Nice score on the seats 

were the old seats gli recaros?


----------



## JayinMI

So, did you trade your interior for the R32 interior so his car will still have an interior when it gets repo'd? 

I like where this is heading.

Jay


----------



## vwdave

That's a great score. Glad you able to snag the interior that you were after. I could imagine how happy your wife is with the change.


----------



## req

ive still got the other interior. like i said my car is in the shop right now and its all together. i am thinking that ill try to fit it in the 1992 GTi that i bought for a few hundred dollars a few weeks ago. im still trying to sort out an ignition problem, but thats neither here nor there lol.

if that does not pan out i dont know what ill do with the GLi recaro seats and panels. sell them? i dont know. its all in great shape, i bet i could sell them to make up some money ive got in the r32 interior - i know that i dont want them just sitting around my house if i end up not being able to use them.

on another note, its a snow day here. we got a few inches of snow then some rain then some more snow, and we dont have any plows, so its super dangerous to be driving around so i get to stay home 

yesterday i drove up to manassas and hung out with Tintbox and then procceded to meet up with a fella who had a 1972 volkswagen beetle for sale. fresh paint, good interior, generally a solid car. my father in law has been looking for one to toy with and we picked it up for him. unfortunately the weather caught up with us on the drive home and a 3 hour drive ended up taking 6.5 hours. being 6'2" tall, i do NOT fit into a beetle. the lack of a modern heating system, me being too tall for the car, and dry rotted wiper blades made this drive very long and arduous.














































lets just say it was a very long weekend haha


----------



## Kjekz

I've been on the hunt for the gli/ae recaros for ages, so if you are interested in selling and not afraid of some overseas shipping shoot me a PM


----------



## JayinMI

6'2" and you don't fit? My dad's 6'2" and he fit in my '70 with inches to spare. The heat does leave something to be desired, especially if the heat exchangers are rotten.

When I was driving mine 40 miles to/from college, I'd have to turn the heat on (after scraping the INSIDE of the windows to see), run it almost til I got dizzy, then shut it off and open the vent windows to get the fumes out. Luckily I scored a new set of exchangers part way through from my mechanic. Then I kept melting the side of my foot. lol

I assume you realize it's a Super Beetle, so hopefully the strut front suspension won't mess with his plans for the car. It's a very common mistake for people to make, but you being a VW guy, I'm sure you're aware. 

Jay


----------



## req

i mean i did fit, but id of been much happier if the seat went back another 5 inches or so.

the heat did work, it wasnt perfect and it was very cold outside lol. i didnt see signs of lots of rust or anything like that, a small fiberglass repair in the front driver wheel well and some in the strut tower but for a 72 it really was not bad at all considering its age.

what do you mean by the front suspension? i dont think he plans on doing anything but keeping it in working order and maybe cleaning a few things up. i think he just wants to enjoy the car. he used to have one when he was younger and was interested in finding one in good shape to enjoy during the summer time.


----------



## JayinMI

A lot of people want to lower them or something, or build Volksrods, and Super Beetles aren't ideal for that. There are several threads on Volksrods.com where someone bought a super not knowing they had strut front suspensions. If he's just going to drive it, then it wouldn't matter. Might make a difference on some of the parts he might be interested in, if he makes changes tho. That's all.

Jay


----------



## req

so my car should have been ready on wednesday, but they broke one of my tail lights, and it was a Hella aftermarket part that is no longer in stock anywhere so they had to order an OEM replacement. turns out they did not realize that the tail light was aftermarket and now they have two tail lights that dont match. i had them buy a replacement for the other side, that part did not come in until friday because the snow that came through the east coast and my car wont be ready till monday. i have to drive to flordia on monday and return on tuesday so i wont get my car till wednesday. well, at least im not driving it with the fresh paint in this crappy weather.

some pictures that were taken for me from the paint process!



















an area that had rust due to a very tiny paint chip near the windshield letting water enter under the driver side door seal. they fixed it 












































































































































































i also ordered some wheel spikes and i think it will look very cool when they get put on. they were 98 cents a piece lol.











its been a cold few weeks here in virginia.


----------



## req

my alternator died on saturday. i guess so many years of lots of headroom finally took its toll. but i upgraded to a 120A alternator versus the OEM 90A unit. so ive got that going for me.

been putting this off for way too long, but i finally did it. big three. i figured i could do it while the alternator was out. since i had all the tools out, i just did what i had to do. and since i was doing that, i figured id finally install my new battery terminals. a big shout out to my boy Rokusek for helping me do everything today. 

pictures.


















































































no check engine lights here!!






























i also got some new interior parts

before:



























after:


----------



## captainobvious

Sweet! Nice fresh paint.

Love the clean battery wiring as well. Interestingly enough, I picked up one of those new Knukonceptz battery terminals as well but haven't used it yet. How do you like it? It looks like a very well thought out design. We're gonna have to hook up at some point when my system is back together so I can get a demo!


----------



## req

thanks! 

the battery terminals are nice, the only thing I wish theyd change is that the set screws are on the bottom. youd need to unhook it from the terminal and flip it over to hook a new wire into it. if the set screws were on top it would be much easier. also, it would be nice if there was a second screw-stud type connection on the other side for small wires that people may want to install instead of using the set screws because everyone knows that small set screws tend to strip easily and not hold small wires very well compared to a ring terminal. lastly, I would like to have a bolt that holds the terminal to the battery as an option. as they sit, you can only use it with stud type batteries. I wish theyd have included a bolt type adapter of some kind instead of the spring clamp thing, but these are all moot points.

I do really like the terminals. I really like the plastic flexible covers over the top. now I really got to put some tuning into my DSP ... for me this is the hardest part to get right :anxious:


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## crea_78

Very nice paint job!! Wish I could have seen/heard your car this weekend.


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## quickaudi07

Very nice. I miss my MK4


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## few35t

This build is so dope. Man I want that car PC.


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## bertholomey

crea_78 said:


> Very nice paint job!! Wish I could have seen/heard your car this weekend.


Absolutely correct! The paint job was fantastic......the skirts, bumper, etc gave the car a much more custom look (IMO) - really set the car up - very cool effect, and those wheels are so incredibly cool in person. Fantastic job Andy!!!


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## JayinMI

It sounds pretty good, too.

Jay


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## vwjmkv

would those seats work in a 2008 jetta?


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## req

I'm not sure what you're asking @vwjmkv? You want to know if MK4 seats drop into a MK5?

after a quick google, I am going to tell you that MK4 seats can be installed in a MK5, but that involves some fun work in modifying the rail mount system to affix one seat to the other car as well as wiring in the airbag system and anything else like passenger weight sensors for the airbag system.

I would say that you could do it, but I don't really recommend it. if you are looking for nice seats for a MK5, the best option is MK5 Euro seats. they are drop-in replacements and look much better than the MK4 GLI\337\20THae recaro seats or R32 konig seats. MK4 recaros sell for roughly $200~500 USD depending on the condition, and MK4 R32 seats sell from $500~1500 depending on the condition. MK5 Euro seats I would imagine to be several thousand dollars.


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## strakele

Car's lookin really good Andy. Fresh paint and new interior is awesome. Still diggin' the XBL system?


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## austriuz

fanat-tastic project 
I see you have a good time with yor car, it's cool
I have audio in my golf 4 too ant enjoy the sound and dooing something for beter sound


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## req

thank you @austruiz

I have some more modifications coming down the pipeline that I will be posting here shortly


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## Hanatsu

Love your car. Nice stuff indeed 

Perhaps I can finish up my own Golf this autumn... other stuff tends to add up and comes in the way of finishing my projects lol :<

Skickat från min SM-G900F via Tapatalk


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## req

thank hanatsu, I have always admired all the stuff you've done around the forum. from all the tutorials, the in depth tech analysis of just about everything. praise from you is very humbling for me, so thank you very much!!

I am working on starting up my air suspension. the whole interiors gotta come out one last time (crosses fingers). new tires should be here today. frame notch this weekend I hope. new rear wheel bearings and wheel centering plates. I've been using a Bluetooth speaker in my car for a few weeks because im getting ready for this stuff. after I got rear ended a few weeks ago I told myself I wouldn't put the stereo back in until I finished the air ride. time is scares though.

looks like I forgot to post the aftermath of being hit by a 16 year old kid... pictures to come soon.


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## req

a lot has happened.

suede headliner
1\2 the air suspension installation is complete
MK6 VW HVAC control retrofit
MK4 20th Anniversary Edition rear spoiler 
MK4 GLi Side Skirts
Seat Cupra front lip installed
new tires 205-45-R17
i bought a MK7 GTi steering wheel that im working on
custom waterjet CNC emblems
Kravchenko XBL^2 tweeters that im getting ready to install

you know, stuff.

i just got back from #Eurocane2015 at H2O International, and that was a BLAST (hehe). I ended up scoring first place in the Mild F - 99.5-05.5 Golf\Gti 1.8T for the car show portion on sunday.

if youre interested in H2OI pictures, here is a gallery!

here are some pictures.

(thanks to the VWVORTEX media group for these first two)














































yes i put the air tank and management on the roof! AND NO ITS NOT FINISHED YET!



















































































and the new kravchenco tweeters ive got to install



















i hope to make it to the NCSQ meet next month. i hope that the air suspension will be done by then and the tweeters will be installed by then. i hope my CV axle does not go out on me because i need to change the boot on it badly. thanks for looking at my build


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## Vidar

I can't see the pics. Is it only me?


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## glidn

Vidar said:


> I can't see the pics. Is it only me?


yeah, me neither


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## req

ugh. bummer. let me fix it.


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## kyheng

You need to set it to public.


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## req

fixed the pictures. sorry everyone


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## bertholomey

Definitely would love to see you and the car!


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## AccordUno

Interesting to see the tank hanging off the roof.. Does that tank impede your rear view?


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## bbfoto

Looks awesome, Andy! And congrats. Love the new waterjet-cut aluminum VW badges! I'd prefer a cleaner look without the full "volkswagen" one, but that's just my personal preference. They're very nice.

I'm interested to see what you think about the new tweeters, too.


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## req

thanks for the kind words everyone 

jason, my car might not make it. it needs a new front right axle, and new rear wheel bearings, kind of nervous about taking it that far before i fix those two parts. i dont know when ill have the parts to fix it yet. 



bbfoto said:


> Looks awesome, Andy! And congrats. Love the new waterjet-cut aluminum VW badges! I'd prefer a cleaner look without the full "volkswagen" one, but that's just my personal preference. They're very nice.
> 
> I'm interested to see what you think about the new tweeters, too.


thanks bb! i had a guy i met on the vwvortex trade them to me for some super sweet flush jetta backlit vents 

i put the volkswagen script on there because it was an aircooled throwback to the OG days of VW along with the 1930's VW Cog emblem.


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## Vidar

req (Andy?), what would you say was/is the parts of your mk4 with the most rattles and creaks regarding vibrations from the subwoofers? I'm in the dampening stage and wonder if some panels are worst than others. Yeah, I know mileage might vary, but, worth a shot, I think. (My sub enclosure is soon ready, I hope.)


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## req

hmm. there is an exhaust shield above the 1.8t exhaust that makes some noise, I am not hugely familiar with the r32 exhaust, but I know the whole rear floor pan is different to accommodate the haldex gear box, awd drive train, individual rear suspension, and so on... but I would assume there is some kind of similar aluminum shielding held on by circular aluminum fasteners that spin onto a kind of stud affixed to the car. this shield around the muffler makes noise for me.

second, the headliner rattles where it meets the sunroof in the aft center most section of the sunroof opening. you cant just wedge something in there because the sunroof slide goes through this area. my solution was to epoxy\fiberglass the top portion with some reinforcement to make it more rigid. you might be able to just get some DUCT SEAL and mass-load the area. there is an aluminum reinforcement around the perimeter of this opening, and it has maybe a 1\2" recess up in there. stuffing it with duct seal would add mass to this area making it resonate at a much lower frequency.

duct seal-
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...36C086C0D9F69FF6E.tndm-prodapp1-external-mcom

lastly, there are flaps behind the bumper below the tail lights that equalize pressure inside the cabin when the doors open or close so people don't pop their ear drums when inside and a door is closed. these flaps tend to, well - flap - open and closed on high pressure levels and it sounds terrible. I was able to take my tail lights off, remove the bumper, and then remove the plastic housings that hold the flaps. then I carefully removed the flaps and wrapped the housings in black panty hose\leggings. I sprayed them with scotch-guard water repellant spray and reinstalled them without the flaps. the cloth keeps insects and water out but still breathes.

other than that, the car is fairly quiet. I have noticed the glove box makes some rattles but I don't think its associated with the subwoofer. also, my windows were rattling inside the door. it was because the N shaped gasket that locks into the top of the door panel, and then the door card locks into the N shaped gasket was compressed a bit. this gasket has a metal core and a rubber\felt exterior that the interior of the glass presses against to form a seal. I pried open the gasket a bit with some channel lock pliers and some rags so I didn't damage the rubber and reinstalled them. the window sits tight and does not move anymore


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## Vidar

Wow, thanks for a thorough answer. :thumbsup:

I had a SEAT Leon 20VT Cupra (cheap Golf GTI) before and know about that shield, so when I was under the R32 some years ago, I dealt with something similar, so I hope that's ok now.

I don't have a sunroof, so one issue less. Or two, if you count the potential water leaks.

Those flaps makes horrible noises already. I need to keep an eye/ear on them.

Thanks for the tip on the N shaped gasket.

I know I'll be getting rattles from one of the C pillars, but don't know what's causing it. I've been hunting the rattle for almost 5 years. Even paid the VW dealer to have two technicians investigate with stethoscope and other instruments, but to no avail.

Sorry for a little thread-jacking.


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## req

Vidar said:


> I know I'll be getting rattles from one of the C pillars, but don't know what's causing it. I've been hunting the rattle for almost 5 years. Even paid the VW dealer to have two technicians investigate with stethoscope and other instruments, but to no avail.
> 
> Sorry for a little thread-jacking.


no problem man! I think of it as a bump to the top of the build log page haha.

as far as the C pillar goes, I don't recall any specific rattles in my car, but there are wires and such going behind the pillars. they affix to the car with like 4~6 pressure clips. maybe one broke off and is between the inner-skin and the outer-skin. its a 2-layer metal panel. all the antenna wires cut up through there. I bet you its just a clip that's vibrating. maybe take off the C pillar and either have someone drive you around while you sit in the back seat and touch things until you locate the noise? the C pillar comes off with one bolt behind the seat belt strap. just gotta be careful and remove the cover from the seat belt pully-thing. it flips out from the bottom, so don't pull from the top, it is one piece with a hinge on the top. I think its a 15mm bolt or something? then take the rear shelf panel off, its kind of tricky because you've gotta take the rear quarter panel that covers the back speaker off, plus the rear hatch trim, then it pulls up and off. I think there may be a few screws at the bottom of the C pillar but I don't remember. behind the driver side C pillar is a really nice grounding point also. lastly the headliner panel at the top rear of the hatch comes off. a few pressure clips, pull straight down. then the C pillar just pulls right off, its in there tight so yea. unfortunately its one of the first things to be installed for the interior and everything else stacks on top of it.

I hope you can track down that rattle!


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## Vidar

Good. Some people are very sensitive about their threads.

You are thorough in your answers, a bit too thorough, because, of course I've had everything off already.  The technicians needed full access. They suspected something between the 2-layer metal panel, but couldn't pinpoint it. 

Before I went that extra mile with the technicians (or mechanics, which I like to call them), I had already been driven around and around and around by a family member on a specific kind of asphalt and at a specific speed. Knocking and swearing. That rattle has really gotten to me. 

Should have had your subs, maybe the rattle would've come out in the open, with the help of those. :laugh:


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## Kjekz

Car looks good as always. But where are the pictures of MK6 VW HVAC control retrofit?


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## req

bad news. she is gonna be taken apart.



There was heavy rain here in VA beach last Tuesday\Wednesday\Thursday. I woke up Wednesday to go to work and I found my car like this. there has never been flooding in the area that I knew about and sometimes I park in the street. Nobody was injured, my house was not flooded as it is one of the higher plots in the neighborhood. Insurance has deemed my GTi a total loss and given me $4500 plus I get to keep my car for the parts and whatnot. The claim did not cover any of the stereo equipment, so I will try to file a home owners claim as well and hope for the best. I got the battery unhooked and the window rolled down, then with the help of some neighbors we pushed the car up my driveway. I missed a day and a half of work due to flooding. I found a new car, we will see how it goes. the engine was never started, we are going to drain the oil and give it a once over tonight before we try to crank it up.

im fairly certain the Arc PS8 DSP and the Mosconi AS200.4 amps were under water most of the night. I don't know about the carPC. the subs have paper cones so I don't know how they will fare in the damp climate they currently live in. ill post more info as I get it.

thanks for the good build log everyone. 
-Andy


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## Hillbilly SQ

That's heartbreaking to see Andy. That was a cool little car you had there. I'm positive you'll bounce back and be better than ever with the new build.


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## chefhow

So sorry to hear that Andy, I know how much work has gone into the car.


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## imjustjason

That totally sucks a fat one right there. Nothing worse that just losing all that time and effort, sorry man.


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## eviling

Holy cow man! That's terrible. that act of god covered under your insurance I hope I know that can be a tough one. Damn that's terrible to see. 

Is that still the same GTI I heard in 2010? Haven't followed Much of the forums over the yesrs but I know you did allot of work to that car if its the same one. I'm in the middle of my new cars build and that would make me downright cry

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## TexZen

Man, that truly stinks! This has been one of my favorite builds over the years. I know you'll bounce back and I can't wait to see what future project you start!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Babs

I got to hear this awesome v-dub at my first meet ever at NCSQ. Sadly, she's been quieted. Was an awesome car I hope can be saved and brought back from the brink or if it's time, onward to new ventures. Absolutely heartbreaking about the amps and subs as well.


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## AccordUno

Fook, that sucks totally man. The GTI was looking good too.. Hopefully some of the mechanical/shell can be salvaged. Not sure about the equipment, if it was underwater..


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## rton20s

Wow, that really sucks. Sorry to see such a cool VW and install coming to an end. Hopefully what you get out of insurance is enough to get you well on your way with the replacement.


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## knifedag007

Sorry for your loss.
This was a great build log with quality parts throughout.
I'm sure you will be back and better than ever in no time.


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## Notloudenuf

Sorry dude. 
On to bigger and better things hopefully!


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## sinister-kustoms

Man, that's heart breaking :bigcry: Hopefully you can salvage some bits and pieces!


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## ErinH

Eff that noise!

If I can throw some RCAs your way to help with the next build or a power block or the like, LMK.


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## alachua

Man, that is a real bummer, remember hearing the car at the PA state finals probably 4 years ago. 

Did you have a rider on your auto insurance for aftermarket equipment, or just the standard policy?


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## req

thanks for the kind words guys. the whole thing still hurts, and its still settling in.

im still dealing with insurance, and they want to be stingy about it. I had called in the past and asked for a rider or something along those lines and they said that my stereo would be covered in the case of theft of a total loss situation. now that it has happened, they just want to check the box "premium sound" and that entitles me to $47 more on the payout. I was told in the past when I inquired that "as long as it is bolted to the car it will be covered". they did not tell me that "covered" meant $47. so im trying to get them to change the assessment from 'part of the car as a total loss' to 'personal property' that was inside the vehicle that was damaged. but somehow I doubt they give a ****.

anyway, I got the engine running last night. im sure there's lots of electrical issues to dig up - but I have another vehicle in the works that I will be picking up after Columbus day.

I don't know how quickly I will be digging into it. but I guess ill start a new build log.


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## eviling

Yeah. Its twisted how that **** works and they didn't lie. Its covered. Here's your 50$ enjoy. Don't spend it all in one place. That's a shame man. 

Was it a totally loss or can you save some parts?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## req

eviling said:


> Yeah. Its twisted how that **** works and they didn't lie. Its covered. Here's your 50$ enjoy. Don't spend it all in one place. That's a shame man.
> 
> Was it a totally loss or can you save some parts?
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


yea it was a total loss as far as the title is concerned - but the car isn't ruined. the carpets and the seats and that sort of stuff is most likely toast, but the chassis\engine\transmission seem to be ok, but its going to need a new wiring harness and some modules. the airbag module seems to be done. the fan control module is going crazy. the alternator might be done. the serpentine idler and tensioner seem done. stuff like that. but I might pull the engine\trans and get them taken apart and refurbished and put back together with some performance stuff and have a brand new engine\transmission ready for my new car, so its not a TOTAL loss - just a huge one. hundreds of hours of loss.

and yeah, this is the same car from the meet you heard way back then.


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## rton20s

req said:


> thanks for the kind words guys. the whole thing still hurts, and its still settling in.
> 
> im still dealing with insurance, and they want to be stingy about it. I had called in the past and asked for a rider or something along those lines and they said that my stereo would be covered in the case of theft of a total loss situation. now that it has happened, they just want to check the box "premium sound" and that entitles me to $47 more on the payout. I was told in the past when I inquired that "as long as it is bolted to the car it will be covered". they did not tell me that "covered" meant $47. so im trying to get them to change the assessment from 'part of the car as a total loss' to 'personal property' that was inside the vehicle that was damaged. but somehow I doubt they give a ****.
> 
> anyway, I got the engine running last night. im sure there's lots of electrical issues to dig up - but I have another vehicle in the works that I will be picking up after Columbus day.
> 
> I don't know how quickly I will be digging into it. but I guess ill start a new build log.


It sucks having to go through a loss like this and then having to fight an insurance company, YOUR insurance company, on top of it. My wife works in insurance, but doesn't deal with auto. Another branch of her company does though. Her advice is that any custom parts, whether stereo, wheels, interior, engine, etc. worth over $1000 should have special coverage. (All of ours do.) Despite what your agent told you, and as you are learning, it really is necessary if you expect it to be covered in the case of a claim. 

I sent her links to your post and she thinks you actually have a pretty good case. Because you had previously spoken to the company about the additional coverage and they convinced you it wasn't necessary, they should cover as if you did have the added coverage. And that means replacement value, not $47.

A good agency should take care of you. Unfortunately, you have an agent that gave you bad advice. Hopefully it doesn't become an issue of he said, (s)he said. Most independent agencies would just cover the cost out of pocket to avoid issues with you as their client or the insurance carrier.


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## naiku

Saw the pictures on Instagram a few days ago, sucks to see but at least you are keeping your head up and already have plans for a new car. 



req said:


> I had called in the past and asked for a rider or something along those lines and they said that my stereo would be covered in the case of theft of a total loss situation. now that it has happened, they just want to check the box "premium sound" and that entitles me to $47 more on the payout. I was told in the past when I inquired that "as long as it is bolted to the car it will be covered". they did not tell me that "covered" meant $47.


This makes me want to call my insurance company again and ask about coverage. I had contacted them a few months back and they told me much the same thing, that it is covered. But, now I wonder exactly what they mean. Which insurance company?


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## rton20s

naiku said:


> Saw the pictures on Instagram a few days ago, sucks to see but at least you are keeping your head up and already have plans for a new car.
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me want to call my insurance company again and ask about coverage. I had contacted them a few months back and they told me much the same thing, that it is covered. But, now I wonder exactly what they mean. Which insurance company?


Chances are, it isn't. Make sure you are clear on the value. Most people contacting them about stereos probably have a $100 Sony in the dash and maybe some $50 coaxes. 

If they insist that your stereo with several thousand dollars worth of equipment (not including labor) is covers, then I would suggest that you insist that they show to you in writing that it is covered as a part of your policy. Otherwise, be prepared for... "Here is your additional $47, sir."


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## req

yeah naiku. 

it wont be covered. it will be under the "value of the vehicle as the market in your area based on other cars of that nature have sold recently" and all they'll do is tick the box that says "premium stereo" on the evaluation - oh its covered, see? we ticked the box that said premium instead of not ticking it!!! that means that you get an additional $47.

yeah, im pissed about it. I need to call them again.

make sure you get additional coverage on the actual equipment and receipts of it all if you got them.

thanks for the advice rton. ill see what I can do.


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## robolop

I think it's terrible what happened to your car man. There is no assurance that intervenes for the damage ?


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## captainobvious

naiku said:


> Saw the pictures on Instagram a few days ago, sucks to see but at least you are keeping your head up and already have plans for a new car.
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me want to call my insurance company again and ask about coverage. I had contacted them a few months back and they told me much the same thing, that it is covered. But, now I wonder exactly what they mean. Which insurance company?



When we recently re-did our policies (my wife swapped to a different vehicle which prompted the update), I inquired about coverage on my vehicle for the aftermarket stereo/electronics. At a coverage of $10k I think the extra monthly payment amount went up about 7 bux. I said- absolutely.

Now that you've had this issue though Andy, I'm going to have to double check to ensure that everything is all set up properly for correct coverage.

Sorry about the loss bud. Hang in there.


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## Vidar

I saw the pictures on Instagram a few weeks ago and was pretty upset. It's hard to have something happen to your "baby" of many years and hours.

Good luck in the future and if you start a new build thread, please post a link in this thread, so we can follow.


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## JayinMI

As bad as the losses have been for the stereo, I'm also really sorry to hear about the interior being toast. I know those seats and stuff were pretty rare and you were pretty proud of them. Good luck. 

What's the new ride going to be? 2.0 Swapped 1st gen Rabbit or something like that? 

Jay


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