# 2008 Toyota Sequoia KISS Build Log



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

‘Sup. So in the 5 or 6 years that I've been really into car SQ and competition-level systems, I've never done a build log. I took the year off from competing in 2012 so that I could re-focus myself (and my money) and decide if I wanted to continue in the hobby, and if so how to raise the bar. The Highlander was very good, but I was never completely satisfied with it (are we ever?) and I was just driving it temporarily anyway. So I built a competition system in it (actually it evolved into one, but wasn't originally planned) just because it was what I had to drive. Well now my wife is driving it again, and I was able to get a much manlier vehicle with a size that "fits" me better.


Enter my new ride, a 2008 Toyota Sequoia, affectionately called Big Tree (Sequoia is the name of the huge redwood trees found in California). If you saw the Highlander you know I had to put some BBS's on this beast too:











For this build I wanted to build it very close to completely stealth, and not sacrifice any cargo space. I also wanted to build a high quality minimalist system that could hopefully compete and sound great with very few components. Most importantly, I wanted to do it all myself in my spare time just like my past builds. I literally have blood, sweat, and tears into this install. The equipment has changed a couple of times and still may change again before its first show, but I'm pretty happy with what's in there now:

*Clarion DRZ9255
Zuki Eleets 5 channel
Zuki Eleets 2 channel (custom)
Audible Physics Nz3 wideband 3" drivers with AMT transducers combo
Dynaudio 20W75 8" drivers
Image Dynamics IDQ10 v.2 subwoofer*


The DRZ may get modded or swapped to an HX-D3, and I might get a separate processor, but I'm not really stressing it right now. No other changes are planned. 

So I'll get all the photos loaded and add to this log as I have time. Again this is a stealth install, so on the surface the pics will look stock. Thats the point though. Behind the scenes is a different story. Stay tuned!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

So I should probably start with the wiring since that's what I did first. I didn't take many wiring photos anyway since wiring is pretty straightforward and there isn't much show to mine. But here's my installation products list:

*Stinger and Rockford 1/0 Gauge OFC Power / Ground Wire
Streetwires 4 Gauge Power / Ground Wire
Stinger ANL Fuse Holder
Stinger Distribution Blocks
Streetwires ZN9 RCA Interconnects
Streetwires 12-gauge speaker cable throughout
Raammat BXT II and Ensolite IUO sound deadening (Thanks Rick!)
Optima D27F Yellow Top Battery *



I'll update this post later when I install my new battery and how I modded the fuse box cover to accept the 1/0 gauge wire and fuse holder in the factory location. Also holding place for a picture of my engine bay and firewall pass-through. (*updated)

Here is my engine bay:





































Here is my amplifier ground location:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Let's move on to the door speakers since that's where I spent the most time (aside from the sub enclosure). First of all the Sequoia and Tundra come with 6x9" speakers in the door from the factory. However the doors are big and would house an 8" driver without cutting metal, so that's what I wanted. Initially I wasn't going to do a sub at all so I wanted a rock-solid midbass stage. Ultimately my inner audiophile kicked in and I installed a sub anyway but more on that later.


First the tear down (I'll just show driver's side):










The plastic lining was cut away and discarded.










Then Raammat applied to the outer door skin.










And the big holes were sealed with pieces of .25" acrylic.




















Then the inner door skin was generously covered in Raammat.











And the same done on the passenger side.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

awwwwww snap!

here we go, baby!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

bikinpunk said:


> awwwwww snap!
> 
> here we go, baby!





yeahuuuh!

I'll post the baffle build tomorrow. That was fun. One word: Corian.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

Right on big mike!


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Hope you make it in November. I'm ready to hear this 'upgrade' from the Highlander (which was awesome BTW)


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Right on!


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Curious to see what u do in the doors. Should b the same door panel as my Tundra. I know depth can b an issue.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

pjc said:


> Curious to see what u do in the doors. Should b the same door panel as my Tundra. I know depth can b an issue.


Definitely the same doors as the Tundra. I've recently upgraded my door midbasses to HAT L8's (V1). It was definitely a challenge.

Really looking forward to seeing this build.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Okay I've got a little more time so let's continue...

As I stated above, initially I wasn't going to run subs at all. So I knew that I wanted a solid 8" midbass that could handle lots of power to mount in my doors. Problem is ther is only roughly 3" of mounting depth in the Tundra/Sequoia door so that drastically limited my choices since cutting the door panel was out of the question. I wanted my install to look almost virtually stock, with no hint of custom work visible to the naked eye. So I was fortunate enough to stumble upon an usused pair of old school Dynaudio 8" drivers, the first of the Esotec series I believe. They are the 20W75 which preceeds the MW170 which preceeds the current (and still aging) MW172. So yeah, this speaker is ancient, but it has a rubber surround, no blemishes, and the suspension is tight. The best part is that it happened to be the 8-ohm version, which has great specs for an IB door installation (Fs 30Hz, Qts .50). Most importantly, the mounting depth is a mere 78mm. So all that I needed to do was build baffle and go right? Not so easy...

The truck comes with 6x9s from the factory, and the door panel is cut with an oval hole because of it. So I needed a baffle to match that shape and still fit a 172mm cutout. Moreover, the cutout had to line up and be thick enough so that the speaker magnet cleared the window track that happens to conveniently pass right through the speaker mounting area. On top of that I had to make sure the speaker would be centered with the factory grille on the door panel. And when it's all said and done I have to make sure the door panel doesn't contact the speaker frame or surround, particulary at full excursion. Needless to say I ended up building more than one set of baffles before I got it right.

First baffle made of 3/4" mdf. You can see the silver window track in the hole. Notice how the cutout is offset in the oval:



















And passenger side:










Problem is that I need the baffle to be thicker than 3/4" if I want the speaker to clear. I needed to build a spacer ring. Most people would do this out another piece of mdf. I couldn't use two layers of 3/4" mdf because a 1.5" baffle would've been too thick to fit under the door panel. I needed another 1/2" (so I thought) but I wanted the most dense material I could get. I can't stand rattles and vibrations. At the sound pressures I was aiming for and knowing that I would be playing sub-bass from the doors, I had to have something solid. I researched materials and found Corian to be intriguing, so I found a supply of 1/2" Corian slabs that would work perfect for my baffles. Corian is dense, a royal pain in the ass to cut, and is very messy in the aftermath. But it does cut, rout, and sand just like mdf using common hand tools. It just takes three times as long...


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

So while I was waiting on the Corian / MDF baffle stack to dry, I decided to cover the door skin with Ensolite IUO peel and stick. A big shout out to Rick of RaamAudio for the great deal on the product.










And with the baffle mounted:



















That was an adhesive silicone sealant I used to bond the Corian to the MDF by the way. And the MDF was coated with spray polyurethane to seal it.


Here's a quick shot of the speaker wire terminations:










And the speaker mounted:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Well I thought I was done. Except...the dang baffle was too thick and I couldn't fit the door panel back on! I thought I had measured carefully but alas I had not. I compensated by cutting notches in the MDF to allow the door panel to fit around it, and that did work to get the door panel to fit. But, under hard excursion the surround was contacting the back of the panel and it would make a flapping sound. Totally uncool.

So I had to reduce the thickness of my baffle. I had several options and I chose the most time-consuming yet best performing one. I decided to remake the 3/4" MDF baffle out of 1/2" Corian instead. So after countless hours (days of procrastination) and lots of white dust later, these were born:










There is a layer of Raammat BXT II in between the Corian layers. Yah, it's dense.












I trimmed some of the ribs on the door panel so that the baffle cleared. I also put a layer of Raammat on the door panel as well as more Ensolite. Don't have a pic right now but I'll take one in the next couple days. So that's it for the doors. What you didn't see is that I ran the wiring through the existing factory grommet hose, and tied it off with wire ties so that it doesn't rattle or interfere with the window mechanism. These are big doors and are real easy to work in. Next up, dash speakers!


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

It's looking great Mike!!!


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

This turned out really SLICK! 

I really wish I would have gotten the peel and stick from rick vs the 
regular CCF. Good move.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

waiting for the rest, loving it!


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

good move on the corean for the whole baffle

mdf just turns to mush over time - the corean will last for the lifetime of the car!

do yourself a favor and get some duct seal. lowes\home depot has it in the electrical supply section... looks like a brick of C4. its grey and sticky, it never melts from in-car temps and a brick weighs 1lb. get 3 or 4, then buy some BB's or lead fishing weights and start sticking this stuff around the baffle as much as you can, then stick the bb's or lead weights into the stuff to add even more mass.

i did this with my exodus anarchys, and it helps mass load the doors like nothing else.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I wanted to expand on the door panel deadening a bit. These panels are big with large flat areas so it's important to get some Raammat on them. Additionally the armrest assembly is screwed to the door panel itself, making the whole thing an assembly of parts. What I found was that my screws had loosened over time and this caused the two pieces to resonate against each other at certain frequencies. So I tightened them and I was liberal with the Ensolite and stuffed it between adjacent edges, in nooks and crannies, and along the edge of the switch panel assembly so that no two plastic pieces could vibrate together and cause a buzz.

Bare panel:










Notice the parts screwed together-
Before:









And after:










Raammat being applied:










Ensolite covered the Raammat:










And don't forget the connectors, wires, and switch panel:










Door panel back on and looking stock:


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

Is this truck going to make it to the NC meet in couple of weeks?


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

As a Tundra owner, this build log is awesome.

Yeah, it was a ***** getting the 8"s into my door as well. :x


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

takeabao said:


> As a Tundra owner, this build log is awesome.
> 
> Yeah, it was a ***** getting the 8"s into my door as well. :x


Agreed on both points.

This build *IS AWESOME* for Tundra owners! I can attest to 8's being difficult. I did HAT L8's in my Tundra's doors. I had to use double 3/4-inch MDF spacers. My door panels bulge a bit, but it works.

Velozity - I'm definitely going to be copycatting the deadening you did to your door panels. They've always been the weaklink in my truck.


























[/QUOTE]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Salami said:


> Is this truck going to make it to the NC meet in couple of weeks?




Yes it will! I finished my amp rack today so now the truck is officially done with the exception of upgrading my battery. Tomorrow I'll post the rest (dash, sub, amps) if I have time.

Thanks for the compliments everybody!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Let's keep it movin'...
On to the dash speakers. Since the number one theme for this build is stock stealth, that meant that building out the a-pillars or kicks for my midrange/tweeter was not an option. The factory base audio comes with a 2" mid-tweeter in the corners of the dash. I could also fit tweeters in the sails using the factory tweeter grille from a Tundra/Sequoia with the JBL system option and still keep a stock appearance. But I decided to see what my options were for a wideband midrange first. After much debate I settled on a set of the new Audible Physics Nz3-A/AT combo. This is a 3" wideband mid coupled with a novel "ambiance transducer" that is designed to be connected in parallel with the mid, and mounted within 6" of each other. They are there strictly for the 16kHz and up where the mid is rolled off.

Here's the factory 2" tweeter:










Stuff the area behind the mounting location with lots of fabric. I used a t-shirt and some fiberfill:










Solder the ambiance transducer to speaker wire and connect in parallel with speaker wire leading to amp:










Add gasket material to the basket of the midrange:










Test fit the mids and placement of the AT:










Nz3-A and AT mounted (with foam tape) and covered with peel-n-stick Ensolite to create a seal:










Driver side:










Factory grilles cut for mid and AT to have an unobstructed sonic path:










And covered in brown grille cloth using spray adhesive:










And mounted. I had to paint the grille cloth a darker shade of brown to match the dash better:




















And that's it for the dash!


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Nice, Very Nice sir.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Let's go to the amp rack now. Anyone who knows my car audio preferences knows I like to be that guy who goes against the grain and uses less well-known brands that most people aren't using. When I go to a show I like it when I'm the only one running 'X' brand. So I naturally gravitated towards Zuki amplifiers, and the more I learned about them and talked over email with Patrick, the more I wanted to run them in my next competition system. Zuki has several models to choose from, and I settled on an Eleets Hybrid 5 channel and an Eleets custom 2 channel. The two channel is extra special in that it is one of only two amps Patrick specially made for personal reasons. And I'm fortunate that it found its way into my truck! The 2008 Sequoia has a hidden storage compartment in the floor behind the third row seat. With the cargo tub removed, this area gives me 52" x 15" of space to fill with electronics!





























Planning the rack. I'm using MDF as the base and pegboard for the back trim board so that air from under the seats can circulate through to the amps:










Bracket bolted to floor to raise base and provide clearance for the distribution blocks:










Base and trim board covered in brown grille cloth and painted a darker shade of brown (speaker grilles shown prior to painting):










Distribution blocks screwed to the underside of the base board:










Boards back in place:










Zuki Eleets Hybrid 5-channel:










Zuki Eleets 2-channel:










Factory cover up:










Factory cover down:










Look Mom, no system!:











Each amp is fused internally with 120A of fusing and I have a 250A fuse at the battery. Next up, the subwoofer!


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Great work!!! I love the stealth system. I worked on my car about 16 hours this weekend and I have the same requirement on stealth as well. My goal is for passengers to have zero idea that there is a system from the inside of the car and I am almost done. As you know, it is quite a challenge to accomplish this and have a great sounding system.

Thanks for sharing.


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

I can't wait to get a listen.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

:thumbsup: it looks great so far.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

*PEGBOARD???* genius use of resources! I'll admitt, I'mma use this 
idea. I have a good 1/4 sheet of the stuff I had no idea what to do with
now I know.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

FLYONWALL9 said:


> *PEGBOARD???* genius use of resources! I'll admitt, I'mma use this
> idea. I have a good 1/4 sheet of the stuff I had no idea what to do with
> now I know.



Yep! And you can even mount a fan on the back side to push / pull air through the grille, yet still remain out of sight.



Thanks for the other compliments guys. It means a lot to an average diy'er like me!


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## doeboy (May 2, 2012)

where in north cack are you? anywhere near the triangle?


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

Updates?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

AND he never showed up for our meet.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Sorry Kendal! I posted my reason and apologies in the meet thread.

I will be posting more to this log either tonight or tomorrow.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Okay let's keep going. I am most proud of this section of my install because it took the most time and skill, and arguably makes the biggest difference in how my system sounds. The piece de resistance of this build is my subwoofer install.

You would think that with a vehicle this big, I could put any sub I wanted in it right? Well that's true but remember the number one criteria for the build was stock stealth. So that meant no subwoofer box could be visible, and I wanted to retain full use of all cabin space and compartments plus the third row seat. That's a tall order in an SUV with no trunk or hidden spare tire well to use. As such, my sub choices were very limited to slim shallow mounts, so I was planning to do something integrated with the amp rack. Well, once I decided on the Zuki amps, I ran out of space back there very quickly! There was really only one other area to consider. I've always wanted a real up front sub so....

Passenger footwell! When you remove the carpet you are greeted with a foam wedge screwed to the floorpanel. Remove the wedge and you have the potential for fiberglass enclosure sweetness! First, liberal application of Raammat:











Then get ready for the glass. I hate doing this btw: 











After the layers had dried enough to pull the form, I did and then put it back in place to check:











Then after several test forms, lots of trial and error, and serveral days of trying to figure out the size and shape of the rest of the box to maximize airspace: 




















And the box was born. Yeah it's not the prettiest, but it's solid. I used several cans of resin jelly inside and out, and the result is a heavy sealed box that should fit like a glove. The mounting face covered with a layer of Raammat, and the IDQ10 v.2 installed:




















The box is very air tight. Press the cone and it is slow to move and return to position. Box is also filled with polyfil. Mounted in position:











Can't have people's feet damaging this rare speaker, so I bought a cheap grille from Parts Express and mounted it to the sub with Velcro strips. Also note I removed most of the carpet padding:





















And there you have it! The completed speaker stage: dash, door, and sub. Again, look Mom, no system!


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

I like it! Do you have any pictures of the foam wedge you removed for size reference? I'm curious how much space that bought you.

BTW, look into one of the TRD shift knobs. Looks a ton better than that fugly rubber thing in there now.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Velozity said:


> And there you have it! The completed speaker stage: dash, door, and sub. Again, look Mom, no system!


That looks GREAT! I love the level of stealth you have in this build. Makes me want to redo my amp rack and sub box as well.

Great job.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Love this build! I used to have, on separate occasions, a JL XD700/5 and a MS-8 installed in the confines of that foam wedge in the Tundra.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

FuriousYachtsman said:


> I like it! Do you have any pictures of the foam wedge you removed for size reference? I'm curious how much space that bought you.
> 
> BTW, look into one of the TRD shift knobs. Looks a ton better than that fugly rubber thing in there now.



The wedge is in my garage somewhere. I'll snap a pic of it tonight unless someone else wants to post theirs. Thanks for the tip on the knob (heh, heh).





Notloudenuf said:


> That looks GREAT! I love the level of stealth you have in this build. Makes me want to redo my amp rack and sub box as well.
> 
> Great job.



Thanks Kendal! I'm sorry I didn't make it to Jason's GTG so you could hear it. In time...





metanium said:


> Love this build! I used to have, on separate occasions, a JL XD700/5 and a MS-8 installed in the confines of that foam wedge in the Tundra.



Thanks! The possibilities are endless for what could be done there. If I was a real man I'd cut the floor and weld a box to the underside of the truck then drop a 15" in there and then beat my chest with primal ferocity. But alas, I don't possess those skills...


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Totally badass. Damn this makes me want to rethink the sub in my Tundra. How much airspace did you end up with?


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## bmiller1 (Mar 7, 2010)

Great stealth build, man.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

FuriousYachtsman said:


> I like it! Do you have any pictures of the foam wedge you removed for size reference? I'm curious how much space that bought you.
> 
> BTW, look into one of the TRD shift knobs. Looks a ton better than that fugly rubber thing in there now.


I`d rather do Razo knob, top notch quality, I bought 3 of these from that guy, genuine razo, not knock offs.
Razo RA 65A Manual Shift Knob | eBay


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

Not to derail this great build thread with talk of shift knobs, but that Razo doesn't match at all. The TRD is nice - I have one in my Sequoia and it blends perfectly.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks guys. Airspace is approximately .46 cu. ft. Then it's stuffed so figure it performs a little bigger. I think sub displacement is something like .05. ID specs this sub to work in .30-.60 enclosures.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Looks great Mike. I likie I likie a lot!!!

O ya big question, How does it sound


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Audible Physics said:


> Looks great Mike. I likie I likie a lot!!!
> 
> O ya big question, How does it sound




Thanks sir!

Oh, it's sounds a somewhat better than Apple earbuds and somewhat worse than a B&W Nautilus rig...


j/k You know I can't be one to tell because I'm so close to it. Only two people have heard it in it's finshed state and they are just 'civilians'. I was told that it doesn't sound like a car stereo at all. They got out with really confused looks on their faces .


I do have more to add to this log regarding the headunit and DVD player. I'm going to do a tutorial on replacing the CD mechanism in a DRZ9255. I bought a new one from Pac Parts I just have been too lazy to put it in. More to come...


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Velozity said:


> Thanks sir!
> 
> Oh, it's sounds a somewhat better than Apple earbuds and somewhat worse than a B&W Nautilus rig...
> 
> ...


LMAO:laugh:


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Velozity said:


> And there you have it! The completed speaker stage: dash, door, and sub. Again, look Mom, no system!


^^

Great Job, I Love the outcome! That's a thing of beauty!!!


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

I love the SUV !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.....blah blah blah.


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## Voorttimies (Mar 19, 2011)

Velozity said:


> The box is very air tight. Press the cone and it is slow to move and return to position. Box is also filled with polyfil. Mounted in position:



Nice build and I like the KISS approach and your equipment. 

But what you said above about the air tightness... In my opinion "slow to move and return to position" means that the box is leaking. When you press the cone of a speaker in a truly air tight enclosure, the cone movement will be very fast and precise and the cone will return immediately. 
Or maybe I just didn't understand that correctly, English not being my first language. :surprised:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Voorttimies said:


> Nice build and I like the KISS approach and your equipment.
> 
> But what you said above about the air tightness... In my opinion "slow to move and return to position" means that the box is leaking. When you press the cone of a speaker in a truly air tight enclosure, the cone movement will be very fast and precise and the cone will return immediately.
> Or maybe I just didn't understand that correctly, English not being my first language. :surprised:




Thanks, yeah I didn't explain that correctly. It moves but it takes quite a bit of force to do it. There is a lot of resistance (pressure) behind the cone. It does come back to position quickly, but it just doesn't move easily. That's better.


And thanks guys (Dave and Demetrius).


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Gonna show off some under hood pics? Very curious.


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## Aaron95867 (Nov 8, 2012)

Sooo slick. I too would love to see the cable setup under the hood.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

FuriousYachtsman said:


> Not to derail this great build thread with talk of shift knobs, but that Razo doesn't match at all. The TRD is nice - I have one in my Sequoia and it blends perfectly.


color coordination doesn`t mean that it must be the same color. 
I think dark grey carbon fiber and aluminum willl look great in that interior.


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## pentavolvo (Nov 12, 2008)

box looks amazing


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

pjc said:


> Gonna show off some under hood pics? Very curious.





Aaron95867 said:


> Sooo slick. I too would love to see the cable setup under the hood.




I'll clean the engine bay this weekend and take some pictures. Still don't have my new battery though.





pentavolvo said:


> box looks amazing


Thanks! It's definitely homemade.


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Velozity said:


> I'll clean the engine bay this weekend and take some pictures. Still don't have my new battery though.



I wish you could fit a Kinetik KHC 16V

they are 16v and 12V , i have 8 left and it's a power house... I got a deal on them lightly used.

*Specifications
Weight: 54lbs
Ah: 62
Dimensions: 10"x6.5"x8.2"
Suggested Retail: $349.99*


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

awesome job mike! you easily could have fitted a 12 or a 15 in the front haha


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Thanks guys. Airspace is approximately .46 cu. ft. Then it's stuffed so figure it performs a little bigger. I think sub displacement is something like .05. ID specs this sub to work in .30-.60 enclosures.


you're going to have a really hard time getting that sub to play all the way down to 20 and below in that airspace. Youll have really good punch and thump to accentuate midbass, but lack the very bottom end.


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

Updates?


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Impressive fabrication for the sub enclosure. Does it play low enough for you?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

FuriousYachtsman said:


> Updates?


I hope to have some new pictures to show soon of the engine bay and headunit. Just haven't had the time.





Chaos said:


> Impressive fabrication for the sub enclosure. Does it play low enough for you?



Thank you! Yes, I am VERY happy with the sound of the sub. It has both impact and depth, and it's all up front. I couldn't be happier. I'm going to try an Ultimo in there at some point in the future to see if it gets even better.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

In fact I like the sub so much that I find myself really getting into Deadmau5 lately. Never heard of him until recently while looking for material to demo my system. It's intoxicating at 105dB!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I've got some time off from work so I can actually update this thread again! My new Optima D27F Yellow Top will be here tomorrow, so I'll post pictures of my completed engine bay in the next couple days. 

For now, let's look at a short tutorial on replacing the CD mechanism in the DRZ9255. Any seasoned DRZ owner knows that the mech should be replaced every now and then as it wears out easily with heavy use. Luckily they are fairly cheap ($45 shipped at PacParts) and as it turns out, the swap is not that difficult. There is zero info on the web about this, so I guess my tutorial will be a first!



Step 1: Download the exploded parts list from PacParts. It helps just incase you take something apart and forget how it goes back together.











Step 2: Remove top copper cover by removing the (4) philips screws.











Step 3: Remove the four (4) Philips screws securing the CD mechanism metal "basket" to the chassis.




















Step 4: CAREFULLY pull the basket upward and to the right making sure you don't damage the ribbon cable.











Step 5: Remove the ribbon cable from the bottom of the metal CD mech basket. Pull gently and evenly out from the connector. The plastic pull tab comes off easily if you're not careful (as I found out). With the CD mech basket removed, all the juicy circuitry inside is revealed. Guts shot!





























Step 6: Remove the two (2) small Philips screws on the left and right sides of the metal CD mech basket.




















Step 7: Remove the CD mechanism from the basket. Clean out the basket with a dry cloth. Mine was pretty dirty with dust, hair, etc.


Step 8: Unpack the new CD mech. Try to make sure you aren't statically charged. In other words, don't do this while wearing a wool sweater standing on shag carpet after unloading clothes from the dryer, lol.




















Step 9: Old mech on the left, new mech on the right. Re-install in reverse order of removal. Put the new CD mech in the basket first. 




















Step 10: Then reconnect the ribbon cable. Make sure you line up the tabs with the connector and push firmly. It is easy to insert it and be off one wire to the left or right, and then your mech won't work properly. (Ask me how I know...)











Step 11: Put the basket back into the chassis. Use care not to catch the front of the mechanism on the DRZ faceplate tab. Admire your new internals and close 'er up!


----------



## pjc (May 3, 2009)

I really appreciate the work u did here. I gave u the credit in my build for the up front sub. Looking forward to the under hood.


----------



## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Yep, great job on the replacing of the Mech, most Alpine HU's are same way.


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks guys. Just to wrap up the deck install, I don't have any pics of the DC/DC converter, but I mounted it on the chassis to the right of the glove box. The power wire for the converter is run through the grommet to the engine bay. The ground is grounded to a nearby factory ground bolt. I don't have any noise issues with this setup.

Here are some pics of the deck being reinstalled after replacing the CD mech. I took this opportunity to clean up a sloppy initial install and bundle the wires behind the deck nice and neat. Anything that wasn't being used got foam taped. Splices were soldered and heat shrunk. I also installed a Clarion VS935 single DVD player to run on my two headrest screens for the kiddies.





























I've also got a DCZ625 CD changer and fiber optic cable I'm thinking about installing, so if I do then I'll post up here. Next up is the engine bay.


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

How about an update? I found some time yesterday to tidy things up in my engine bay. The huge Optima D27F Yellow Top battery is in, complemented by Monster battery terminals and Monster ring terminals. The amp power cable is Stinger 1/0 OFC protected by 1" convoluted tubing. The head unit power cable is Kicker 8awg protected by techflex. The fuse holders are by Kicker. The bigger one holds a 250A ANL fuse, and the smaller one holds a 20A maxi fuse. Both are shoehorned into the factory fuse box which allows for a cleaner overall look. Whoomp, there it is!




























Routed through OEM firewall grommet:


----------



## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Looking good sir. I like the attention to detail. Simple and clean.


----------



## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

Very nice. Love the upfront sub! Alas I installed a rear sub to help with the sub 30hz stuff. Just couldn't get enough low frequency for iasca. But adding the 15 really showed me what I was missing. 

Great work though! 



Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks guys. There are a few cosmetic changes I want to make to the amp rack to add a little more "show" to it, and I should be changing my head unit here shortly. Stay tuned!


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Different HU? Which one ?


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I don't want to say until it's in my hands


----------



## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

No problem.


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Looking Good Mike!!!


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Mike, I was thinking you need a Panny in the truck.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Yeah me too! I had two at one point and wish I hadn't sold either. One even had an upgraded tube. I'll get another for sure. For now the DRZ's replacement is scheduled to arrive on Monday. It's a "Special Edition" hint, hint...


----------



## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Excited to see your new HU. Here is a few of my HU's.


----------



## Hdale85 (Jan 21, 2012)

Wow...... I love how those look haha, granted it wouldn't fit well in my car at all I don't think.


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

DAT said:


> Excited to see your new HU. Here is a few of my HU's.


^^

Wow DAT,
3 Panny Tubes!!!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

It's here!!!! 




















I can't wait to get it in tomorrow. It will be easy since the wiring is already in place for the DRZ9255. More pictures and listening impressions after install.


----------



## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Congratulations Bro. I'm happy to see it arrive. I know that you have been wanting to get one for sometime now. :thumbsup:


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Mike,

whats the main difference between this HU and the DRZ9255 ?

Looks impressive :thumbsup:


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## SouthSyde (Dec 25, 2006)

Velozity said:


> It's here!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice!! Awaiting your impressions!


----------



## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I just wish they'd throw a friggin USB port on one and I'd be willing to buy one. They look slick and simple with a good dsp to boot.


----------



## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Very Nice!!!!


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Very nice, very nice indeed.


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

bikinpunk said:


> I just wish they'd throw a friggin USB port on one and I'd be willing to buy one. They look slick and simple with a good dsp to boot.


Ditto


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Okay I finally got around to installing the HX-D3, DCZ625, and DCA006. I had decided to pull the wiring entirely and swap out the DC/DC converter as well. Plus I had to tackle a resonance in my door panels that just started. A can of expanding foam made short work of that!

Bottom line: THIS DECK IS OUTSTANDING!! No, it's not a night-and-day difference from the DRZ9255, but it's enough to be audible and appreciated. If I had to come up with a visual analogy, it's like the difference between 720p HDTV and 1080p HDTV. Just like on a good TV you can see the difference, in a good sound system you can hear the difference between these two head units. I've only listened to it for a few hours, but right away I could sense more body to the midbass, and more space in the treble. Like, a little more reverb in the decay of a kick drum and a sharper attack to piano keys. I don't know, it's kind of hard to put into words. For example, on "Spanish Harlem" on the MECA Chesky disc, you know how Don Chesky says "Rebecca's voice should just breathe, with space to the front and the sides" (something like that), well for the first time I kind of get what he's saying I think. I hear her singing, but it's almost like there's two of her and in one voice she's singing and in the other voice she's whispering. But they're layered on top of one another. It may seem weird but that's the best way I can explain it. It's not sibilance, I know what that is. This is different, like a ghostly affect that makes the presentation more "real" as if she were singing right in front of you in a quiet room. 

Okay enough of this, onto the pics! Oh yeah, the volume knob has a very heavy feel to it, like a home audio receiver volume knob. I guess that's what the DRZ felt like when it was brand new also, who knows. But I like it!


----------



## sweefu (Jun 26, 2011)

Hey mate, where did you get your battery terminals from?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Frys Electronics in Texas


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## SouthSyde (Dec 25, 2006)

Velozity said:


> Frys Electronics in Texas


You live in Texas?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Nope I was on a business trip. I go to Houston often.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Makes me want to grab one to pair up with my DSP Z8......


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Looks amazing Mike


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## sweefu (Jun 26, 2011)

Velozity said:


> Frys Electronics in Texas


Thank you! I am having trouble finding some in Australia, I'll check them out and see if they can post.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

Velozity said:


> Okay I finally got around to installing the HX-D3, DCZ625, and DCA006. I had decided to pull the wiring entirely and swap out the DC/DC converter as well. Plus I had to tackle a resonance in my door panels that just started. A can of expanding foam made short work of that!
> 
> Bottom line: THIS DECK IS OUTSTANDING!! No, it's not a night-and-day difference from the DRZ9255, but it's enough to be audible and appreciated. If I had to come up with a visual analogy, it's like the difference between 720p HDTV and 1080p HDTV. Just like on a good TV you can see the difference, in a good sound system you can hear the difference between these two head units. I've only listened to it for a few hours, but right away I could sense more body to the midbass, and more space in the treble. Like, a little more reverb in the decay of a kick drum and a sharper attack to piano keys. I don't know, it's kind of hard to put into words. For example, on "Spanish Harlem" on the MECA Chesky disc, you know how Don Chesky says "Rebecca's voice should just breathe, with space to the front and the sides" (something like that), well for the first time I kind of get what he's saying I think. I hear her singing, but it's almost like there's two of her and in one voice she's singing and in the other voice she's whispering. But they're layered on top of one another. It may seem weird but that's the best way I can explain it. It's not sibilance, I know what that is. This is different, like a ghostly affect that makes the presentation more "real" as if she were singing right in front of you in a quiet room.
> 
> Okay enough of this, onto the pics! Oh yeah, the volume knob has a very heavy feel to it, like a home audio receiver volume knob. I guess that's what the DRZ felt like when it was brand new also, who knows. But I like it!


Very nice set up


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

TRD07 said:


> Very nice set up


indeed, but that ugly as sin shifter knob need to go.
Any toyota, scion, lexus 8mm knob will do, many choices available.
my 4runner has exactly the same knob, i switched to one from scion TC.


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## SouthSyde (Dec 25, 2006)

Velozity said:


> Nope I was on a business trip. I go to Houston often.


O thats awesome! Gonna be in Houston March 16th?


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

I can't wait to get a listen. Everything looks great!!!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Audible Physics said:


> Looks amazing Mike


Thanks! 



Niebur3 said:


> Very Nice!!!!


Thanks! 



SouthSyde said:


> O thats awesome! Gonna be in Houston March 16th?


Naw unfortunately not. But pm me your number. I'll be there soon.




wdemetrius1 said:


> I can't wait to get a listen. Everything looks great!!!


Thanks! 




By the way my DRZ is now for sale. Listing soon.







.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

Wow. Nice. Thank you so much for the drz mech tutorial. Don't know how I missed it.
If you don't mind me asking how much was the hx-d3?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

$1276 shipped. It's one of those purchases you just have to want to make. Plus I have a feeling they won't be around anymore in a couple years.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

Velozity said:


> $1276 shipped. It's one of those purchases you just have to want to make. Plus I have a feeling they won't be around anymore in a couple years.


So does that mean you bought two? lol. 
Let me know when you want to sell it. :laugh:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Heh, I'll keep that in mind!


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

anything new on this Mike? You planning to come to the spring meet?


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

In my humble opinion, the 9255 style units are still the best looking (and among the best-sounding) aftermarket radios ever built. Way back when, I had a DRX and when I get nostalgic I get to thinking that I would like to build one of those "throwback" SQ systems someday with one of these as the the source.

Nice work on yours for sure. Pics of new amprack?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

He told me he moved up north.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Hey! I made some changes to my system recently. Instead of tearing the system down to prepare for rebuild in another vehicle, I went the opposite way and spent more money on it! Funny how that happens. So I replaced my treasured Zuki Eleets V2 Hybrid 5ch and 2ch with a pair of Zuki Limited Production dual-mono amps and a Lunar L2125 2ch amp bridged to my sub. I think only 11 of these Zuki amps were made and I have the last two of them! These were just hand-built for me by Patrick and I was finally was able to install them on Saturday. And I've always wanted a Lunar amp, but never had a need for one until now. This little beast is hand-made in Louisiana and is a very strong amplifier. It's perfect for my IDQ10. So no more class D sub amplification, I'm 100% class AB now. I got everything in and wired up, but not permanently yet. I still need to decide if/when/how I'm going to integrate my Victor tube preamp. I still have to finish the amp rack cover (was using the OEM board before) and I think I'll add a little LED bling to match the green LED behind the fan on the Lunar. Here's where it is right now:






































The cover below will eventually be finished and covered in matching brown grille cloth, and I think I'll add green LEDs under it. The light should show through the peg board holes and grille cloth when the tailgate is lifted:


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

We missed you at the meet saturday.
I even saved a parking spot for you.

Hopefully this fall!?!?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Yes sir! I'm hoping somebody can put one together in VA this summer also.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

Very sick mike. How many Zuki watts do they put out? I've always been intrigued by lunar amps as well


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Very nice Mike very nice indeed.

I love lunar amps myself. Had a few back in the day.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

casey said:


> Very sick mike. How many Zuki watts do they put out? I've always been intrigued by lunar amps as well




Spec is 10w x 2. I swear they're closer to 13w x 2 . The headroom is definitely there. I hear details and resolution in the music with the volume control at -40dB that I used to hear at -20dB. I'm very pleased with these new amps. And that Lunar is amazing bridged to 4 ohms. I didn't realize I was going feel an improvement going from the already impressive class D channel of the Eleets hybrid to this L2125. Makes me want to dig out my old DJ Magic Mike cds!




Melodic Acoustic said:


> Very nice Mike very nice indeed.
> 
> I love lunar amps myself. Had a few back in the day.



Thanks Mark! I still want to try that Ascension 8.9.


.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

sounds good sir. I love the finish on them as well. Cant wait for my next demo


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Yes sir! I'm hoping somebody can put one together in VA this summer also.


im going to bug tintbox and see if i can convince him to host a get together.

if not then i guess it will be up to me this time haha.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Soooooo pretty just read the whole log ! I love simple stealth I am doing one right now! I want one victors tube preamps just not sure where put it yet!


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

so what now Mike? saw the Lunar fs in classifieds lol


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Wow Mike, those Zuki and Lunar are something else. Once again very clean. I know I was highly impressed with it the last time I demoed it, I can't imagine what it'll sound like now. Hope to see you at a GTG soon.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

@casey, Lol, yeah I'm making changes just not sure what they will all be yet. I'm either going to run new amps altogether, or just sell the Lunar and replace it with a lower profile amp that better matches the Zukis, like a chrome Genesis or something. I'll also be taking the plunge and changing out my beloved HX-D3 for a double-din + processor. The wife wants more features and she drives it more than me now, so...

@optimaprime, Thanks! You should definitely get one of the Victory Sonics preamps. Definitely worth it.

@Black Rain- what's up man! I hope to get to a GTG soon too. How's the Kia?


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

i know Russ may want that head unit, hit him up if you do sell it


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Hope you make it out to the GTG.

The Kia is coming along slow. Progress comes slow but still moving along with achieving much better SQ sounding system. I've changed my front stage a bit and also upgraded my DSP for the better.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

Just read through this again. Awesome. Makes me want an suv with an upfront sub and hidden amps. Nice. I have that same dvd player. I bought it off ebay...it worked once and then it would not eject the cd. It's been sitting in my basement.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Black Rain said:


> Hope you make it out to the GTG.
> 
> The Kia is coming along slow. Progress comes slow but still moving along with achieving much better SQ sounding system. I've changed my front stage a bit and also upgraded my DSP for the better.



I plan to be there.




goodstuff said:


> Just read through this again. Awesome. Makes me want an suv with an upfront sub and hidden amps. Nice. I have that same dvd player. I bought it off ebay...it worked once and then it would not eject the cd. It's been sitting in my basement.



Thanks! I actually installed new amps today and made some other improvements so I'll have some updated pictures to post a little later. I bought my DVD player on eBay too over a year ago and it's worked out great.


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## DBlevel (Oct 6, 2006)

Velozity said:


> Thanks! I actually installed new amps today and made some other improvements so I'll have some updated pictures to post a little later. I bought my DVD player on eBay too over a year ago and it's worked out great.



In for pics of the new amps


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

DBlevel said:


> In for pics of the new amps




It's not what you think......yet


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

So here are some changes I made recently.

New Stinger HPM distribution blocks, and a better installation. The wooden board is bolted to the floor through an existing threaded insert. I added a 12V relay for the amplifier remote wires. Splices are soldered and heat shrunk. Previously I was running three amps directly off the turn-on lead from the Clarion. That's generally not the best idea. This way is better. I also updated my 4 gauge wires to Streetwires with a higher strand count. They are easier to bend and maneuver. Plus the blue is cool .


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

And for the new amps. I've been wanting to try these for years, but they're so rare they hardly come available. Recently they did and I grabbed them. I am at max space capacity with these beasts.












Planning the layout so that the RCA jacks and power wires won't interfere:











Board covered with matching tan carpet:











And in place (yes I know I need to clean my bumper):


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I think I will be making a new cover for the amp rack with a *little* bling to it, sometime before the NC meet.


This is how you set gains and tune when it's 98 degrees in NC in early September:













I'll have pictures of some updates to my front stage later this weekend. Overall I'm very pleased with the new amps. Headroom for days!!! Even my 11 year old picked up on that.






This is still my favorite picture of my entire install. Zero loss of "SUV-ability".


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

awesome Mike. Those are amps you dont see every day.

The cleaned up install looks great. Thats something I may do if I find the motivation.

What kind of power are you pushing to everything now?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

According to the underrated specs at 12V and 4 ohms per channel: 155 x 2, 420 x 2, 615 x 1. If I decide to put the tweeters in and go three way I'll re-configure the channels and have 115 x 4, 155 x 2, 615 x 1.


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## DBlevel (Oct 6, 2006)

Oh nice!! Can't wait to hear them!

Definitely don't see those very often.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Very nice my friend. I really dig your build a lot !


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Steg - one of my unicorns - Well Done my friend!


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## narvarr (Jan 20, 2009)

Nice amp choice. I love my Stegs. 

Sent from my C6806 using Tapatalk


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks y'all! These Steg amps are very, very detailed without sounding "clinical". I think it's a great match for my HX-D3. Guess I should change my sig now. Zuki will always still be one of my favorite amps though.

Oh and for the record the model numbers are two K2|02 and one K4|02.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Back from the grave. Big changes on the horizon. I'll start with a teaser of what will be the centerpiece of the new install:












As alluring as it is, it's going to be more than meets the eye...


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

I know I know!....


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

Me too it's a P....... C.-..xxxxd  

Kelvin


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

So does this mean the Clarion is for sale, or has that already been sold ?


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

very cool mike


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Back from the grave. Big changes on the horizon. I'll start with a teaser of what will be the centerpiece of the new install:



Is there a chance that the Big Changes will be seen at the NCSQ Spring Meet?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Velozity said:


> Back from the grave. Big changes on the horizon. I'll start with a teaser of what will be the centerpiece of the new install:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like that is a McIntosh deadhead with volt meter?


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## puntti (Mar 25, 2015)

Velozity said:


> ‘Sup. So in the 5 or 6 years that I've been really into car SQ and competition-level systems, I've never done a build log. I took the year off from competing in 2012 so that I could re-focus myself (and my money) and decide if I wanted to continue in the hobby, and if so how to raise the bar. The Highlander was very good, but I was never completely satisfied with it (are we ever?) and I was just driving it temporarily anyway. So I built a competition system in it (actually it evolved into one, but wasn't originally planned) just because it was what I had to drive. Well now my wife is driving it again, and I was able to get a much manlier vehicle with a size that "fits" me better.
> 
> 
> Enter my new ride, a 2008 Toyota Sequoia, affectionately called Big Tree (Sequoia is the name of the huge redwood trees found in California). If you saw the Highlander you know I had to put some BBS's on this beast too:
> ...


 I'm ready to hear this 'upgrade' from the Highlander


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

You wild mike. I can't wait.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Coppertone said:


> So does this mean the Clarion is for sale, or has that already been sold ?


Yes it has already been sold. Sold as a package deal pretty quickly actually. Glad she went to a good home.




bertholomey said:


> Is there a chance that the Big Changes will be seen at the NCSQ Spring Meet?


I had fully intended to Jason, but my son has a science competition state finals that day that I must support. Oh well, there's always fall or a mini-meet in the summer.




Black Rain said:


> Looks like that is a McIntosh deadhead with volt meter?



Good guess but no. Subwoofery has it right. It's a...


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Panasonic CQ-VX5500KD. In my opinion the sexiest double-din headunit ever made.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I found this gem overseas and it was being sold in need of repair. I didn't care if it worked or not. The black versions are so hard to find that I jumped on it. After I got it and diagnosed I found that all it needed was a new (correct) wire harness, and a new CD mechanism. Anybody that has had one of these or a Panny bottlehead knows that those two items (along with the remote) are hard to find. I was able to source a new CD mechanism from China (made in Mexico) and a new remote from Japan. Since the CD mechs are so hard to get I bought two while I had the chance.


First I carefully disassembled the unit.










The original mech is on the left with the brackets and input board still attached. The new mech is on the right.











The PCB from the old one needed to be transferred over to the new one. This involves cutting and re-soldering four wires.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I put it back together to test the new mechanism. It works like brand new with no tracking errors on any disc type. I also decided to pull out the MiniDisc drive (shown on the right). More on that later...


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Looks pretty damn sweet Mike! Hate ya ain't gonna make it next month, but hope yer kid does well in the science competition, although I'm sure just making it to the state finals is an accomplishment itself! See ya next meet......


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

I hope Mike will finish what he does over weekend and then it would be wow!
I doubt any 5500 will be ever found for sale anywhere.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Victor_inox said:


> I hope Mike will finish what he does over weekend and then it would be wow!
> I doubt any 5500 will be ever found for sale anywhere.




It's already done Vic 

Pictures coming later tonight.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Continuing...

As I said above, I removed the mini-disc mechanism from the unit. Why on earth would I do that you ask? It's not because it's a pretty useless feature for people in the US (though that's true). Let's explore:

The subject:











Here is the mini-disc drive pulled apart leaving a very inviting frame and bracket behind:












I wonder what would happen if I cut a piece of perfboard to fit the tray? It might look like this:











When put back in the head unit, suddenly appears a nice little hiding spot for something:













But what on earth could I put there...an iPod? LEDs? Skittles??




-


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Hard drive , drugs, 4 snickers candy bars, eq, condoms , pack of smokes , I could keep going but wanna see what you do


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

optimaprime said:


> Hard drive , drugs, 4 snickers candy bars, eq, condoms , pack of smokes , I could keep going but wanna see what you do


I would put tube preamp in it and make it your personally designed bottlehead but better.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Victor_inox said:


> I would put tube preamp in it and make it your personally designed bottlehead but better.


Ohhhhhhhhhh that's way better then candy bars or drugs ! I was way off!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Hey good idea! (Victor cheated though because he had advance knowledge )

I'm building my own version of the Panny bottlehead using Victory Sonics' VK-TP2 tube preamp:


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

i knew, true that.


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

So it fits perfectly and has the right low-profile. I'm adding a small 10A PCB relay so that power to the preamp will be triggered by the remote turn on lead. In my opinion the benefits of this custom -VX5500 over a normal tube -TX5500 bottlehead are many:

1. It's black!
2. Symmetrical faceplate with nicer meters.
3. Black/White LED display instead of the amber/black one on the -TX.
4. Higher preamp output voltage.
5. All sources fed through tube including the Aux input. A stock bottlehead only sends the CD signal through the tube.
6. It is guaranteed to be the only one like it in the world.


Testing a layout with the relay:











Testing the preamp through the relay:











Glow tube, glow!:











This is why I never leave work because I have such a nice workbench in my office to build my Frankenstein:


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Time to start soldering power wires and audio signal I/O cables to the preamp PCB:




















I temporarily soldered some RCA jacks to the ends so I could take it home and test the preamp on my home stereo:


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Forgot to mention I pulled the mini-disc slot door off of the faceplate so that the tube can be seen when the unit is in the car. Also helps to promote airflow:











So the plan for this unit was to tap the audio signal at the factory RCA jacks, run into the preamp, and then mount new RCA jacks on the chassis for the tube preamp output. Here I am marking the location of the new RCA jacks:


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Here I soldered the preamp's input wires to the back of the unit's factory RCA jacks:





















Also soldered battery, ground, and remote turn on wires from the relay to the pins of the main connector header. 'Twas a little tricky but with enough heat and technique (and a desoldering pump for when I screwed up) it worked out:


----------



## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

And then the RCA jacks mounted to the chassis and preamp output wires soldered to them:




















Finally, time to reassemble and tuck away the new wiring:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

And now to put on the faceplate and power this baby up...BUT:













*EPIC FAIL!* I neglected to take into account the depth of the LED diplay and meter housing. The preamp was sitting about an inch to close and I couldn't snap the face back on. *facepalm*


This happened at about 11:00 last night. I was tired of soldering and was going to give up for the night but decided to go ahead and fix it. So, AFTER MEASURING MORE CAREFULLY, I laid out the area for the preamp and relay again. Then readjusted and soldered the wires in place. Covered the solder points with foam tape and the whole bottom of the perfboard with clear transparency to prevent shorts on the circuit board below:







































Fits much better now, Lol.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

And the semi-finished product. I say semi- because I think I will try to find a fan to put inside here. There's already a provision for one on the rear panel. Anyway here she is!:


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Okay, I have to ask......if this is KISS (build log title), what the hell do you do when you go all out???? That is some serious skill!!!!


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Mike you don`t need a fan inside of this case. you can just take my word for it or you can let it run for 20 hours and then measure.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That is simply amazing! You have great vision, and you have a ton of skill to execute that vision. I can't wait to get an extended demo - already thinking of tracks I want to listen to


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Niebur3 said:


> Okay, I have to ask......if this is KISS (build log title), what the hell do you do when you go all out???? That is some serious skill!!!!



Thank you Jerry! I've got the schematic and I'm toying with the idea of changing the opamps, but that would be the extent of it . 




Victor_inox said:


> Mike you don`t need a fan inside of this case. you can just take my word for it or you can let it run for 20 hours and then measure.



Noted sir.




bertholomey said:


> That is simply amazing! You have great vision, and you have a ton of skill to execute that vision. I can't wait to get an extended demo - already thinking of tracks I want to listen to


Thanks Jason! I can't wait to get it in the truck...eh that is when I have the rest of the system ready to go with it. I'm listening to the headunit right now through my home receiver. Sounds so much better than my blu-ray player in the same setup. I'm loving this!!


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

Sick!!


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Aw hell.....that's frickin awesome! Fine job on a one of a kind (truly now) head unit! I hope it gives you many hours of sonic nirvana, lol, and I hope to get a lil bit of it myself next demo.......


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## stereo_luver (Oct 30, 2007)

This was your soldering the other night when we were texting?

No butt hurt here over the delay in our conversation. Nice!

Chuck


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## jdsoldger (Feb 14, 2012)

I would not survive having a head unit like that in my car... I would never take my eyes off it!


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## SQram (Aug 17, 2007)

I can't help but think how nice the unit would look with the gauges illuminated by blue LED's to match the LCD.

Sprinkle in a few McIntosh amps in the trunk to tie it all together...

In any case, well done sir, that is definitely one bad ass H/U.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

SQram said:


> I can't help but think how nice the unit would look with the gauges illuminated by blue LED's to match the LCD.
> 
> Sprinkle in a few McIntosh amps in the trunk to tie it all together...
> 
> In any case, well done sir, that is definitely one bad ass H/U.




Thanks. Actually the display background is black and the letters are white. It just photographed blue-ish with my cell phone. The dash illumination in my truck is amber so this will fit the theme perfectly.


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Wow Mike, very nice work!


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Wow, very nicely done Mike.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

So have you gotten the Panny in the truck yet?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Hi Juan, not yet. I'm building baffles for the new midbasses and doing pillars for the new midranges. It's going to be a total system overhaul. I'll post pics when time allows.

New gear- Panny, NZ3AlBe, MW182, Helix DSP, amp(s) TBD (hopefully a Tru Super Billet).


Oh and thanks Randy and Demetrius!!


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

That is exciting.
I'm sure it will sound just as sweet!


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## Buckyibf (May 23, 2012)

Just wanted to say thanks for your post on your Toyota Sequoia!!! I have a Tundra just finishing up on the install Soon to have the build log up.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Wow, now _this_ is a grown man's amp. Yeah my merry-go-round amp shopping is done. Unless I decide I want a separate Class D sub amp. Planning to install this beast in a few weeks!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Dang that will push tweeters to brink of total destruction


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Push, lol heck that will grenade them into submission.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Coppertone said:


> Push, lol heck that will grenade them into submission.


Well more nuke them on spot.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Good thing I don't plan on running tweeters, Lol.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Now YOU'VE really got my attention lol.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

mike, that modded panny head unit is gorgeous. I have never seen that model before and you're right, it is _nice_.

very cool man. keep up the awesome work


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## j.key (Aug 27, 2013)

that headunit is awesome. Would love to hear this thing when its done!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks Andy!

j.key maybe we can meet up sometime next month after it's done. I forgot you were in the area Lol. I'll try to get it done before I move.


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## j.key (Aug 27, 2013)

If you need an extra hand just let me know. I'm usually free in the afternoon. Do you tune with an RTA?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

So it's time for an update...

New gear has been acquired and I'm in the process of fabricating/installing. As noted above, here's my new gear list:


Source- Panasonic CQ-VX5500-MDM (Mike D modded, Lol)
Processor- Helix DSP with URC-2A (diminutive yet so powerful)
Accessory- Tru Technology SSLD6i Line Conditioner
Amplifier- Tru Technology Super Billet SB6-S (beast mode!)
Mids/Highs- Audible Physics NZ3AlBe with dual Ambiance Transducers per driver (may or may not use the AT's)
Midbass- Dynaudio MW182 (yep, I got them to fit thank God)
Subwoofer- Image Dynamics IDQ10 v.2 D2 (ol' faithful is still kickin')

Pics coming shortly.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Looking forward to seeing this progress and grow into what we know will be a phenomenal build.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks Ben!

Before I get into the rest of the install, I want to update some finishing touches I made to the headunit. Since I completed the tube preamp mod earlier in the spring I've been listening to the Panny in my home set up while I waited to put it in the truck. Sometimes I would listen for 2-3 hours just enjoying that tube sound. Well, I found that after the Panny would run for over an hour or so, it would get pretty warm inside and when I would try to change discs the CD mechanism would not spin until I shut it off for a while. I think there's some sort of thermistor in there that shuts it down if it gets too hot. The motor and spindle sit only about 2" from the tube so it was getting toasty. I noticed from the schematic that the OEM Panny bottlehead has a fan in it. The VX5500 being a non-tube unit did not come with one. Since the TX5500 and VX5500 share the same chassis my unit already has openings and mounting points in the back for a fan. So I scoured Digikey and found a little 12V fan that was a perfect fit. I wired the fan to the relay that runs the tube preamp. The fan was a bit too loud for me when run at 12V, so I wired in a voltage divider to drop the supply voltage down to about 8V and the noise level is just right. Also, again taking a design cue from the original bottlehead, I decided to make an aluminum heat shield to put over the tube to reduce the directly radiated heat on the CD mechanism. Everything is installed and works much better now. I can listen through 3 whole discs without any hiccups.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

One other item to share before I get to the truck is a power line filter that I built to go with the Panny. Normally Panasonic includes a small filter in the power harness, however I did not get the original harness when I bought the radio. Of course it works fine without one but me being me I had to have one, and make it better. I thought of trying to find one of the Pioneer RD-7X units, but I felt it's so over-priced when I can just build one myself. So here is the design inspiration...










...And here is my version. All parts were sourced from Digikey. I included my schematic in one of the pics in case anyone wants to build one themselves. You can see from the last pictures that the unit is still holding over 13V even after I cut the power supply input. Very simple but effective design. Yes I realize in the last pic I screwed the back panel on upside down, Lol.


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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

Late to the party on this one...

But man... absolutely awesome job on the customized head unit. Just gorgeous.
:bowdown:


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## capea4 (Sep 2, 2010)

Fantastic!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Wow this just plain sick!!!!


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Mike where did you get those grey terminals I need a source please.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Vic, I got them from Digikey. They're not cheap though- over $4 each.

0708250 Phoenix Contact | 277-5906-ND | DigiKey


Thanks for the kind words everybody!! I've been outside finishing my dash pods and installing the headunit, line driver, and processor. Pics coming tonight.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Velozity said:


> Vic, I got them from Digikey. They're not cheap though- over $4 each.
> 
> 0708250 Phoenix Contact | 277-5906-ND | DigiKey


THanks Mike, it`s perfect, how big of a wire you can stick in?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Victor_inox said:


> THanks Mike, it`s perfect, how big of a wire you can stick in?


10-30 gauge


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Velozity said:


> 10-30 gauge


I can use 10, do you know if they have bigger, like 4?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Victor_inox said:


> I can use 10, do you know if they have bigger, like 4?




yes they do

3001721 Phoenix Contact | 277-6583-ND | DigiKey


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Velozity said:


> yes they do
> 
> 3001721 Phoenix Contact | 277-6583-ND | DigiKey


Gotcha, picture kinda suck, how the heck they mounted on the chassis?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

...And I'm back. Time is at a premium these days but I found time to get the Big Tree back in business. It's been a long 9 months listening to factory speakers and the built-in amp of a Clarion CZ-702 (nice headunit btw). So here's the latest incarnation of my install. I must admit it's starting to stray away from the original K.I.S.S. design direction. Lol.


First of all, when you're going all in, you have to dress the part. I dug out the "uniform"...








[/URL][/IMG]

The Dynaudio MW182 is widely regarded as the midbass king, and I've been wanting a pair for a while. I just never thought I could fit them. I decided to give it a try and sure enough they *just* fit without cutting my door panel. It took some precision measuring (and luck) to get the depth just right so the magnet cleared the window track that cone doesn't hit the inside of the door panel under hard excursion. As with the MW170 I was running before, I built the baffles out of two sheets of 1/2" Corian solid-surface material. Corian is very dense and really helps to cut down on door panel resonances. The finished baffle is a sandwich of Corian plus Raamat and silicone adhesive. Touching the speaker frame is a gasket of Ensolite.








[/URL]



[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Next I installed the Tru Super Billet 6. This picture just shows a temporary mounting. I plan to finish it off with a simple carpeted (or vinyl-covered) beauty panel under the OEM access panel. This is a serious amplifier that is built like a tank and awesome to see in person. I think it's 32" long and 36 pounds. I love the idea of running the entire system from one amp:











Also, I installed the Panny, Helix DSP, and Tru SSLD6i. I ended up moving my custom-built power line filter to the open area behind the head unit where the factory center channel speaker would go, and sliding the processor a little more forward. But initially this is where I placed those boxes for testing:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

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[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Now for the Audible Physics NZ3AlBe...

I've been a fan of Rishi's drivers ever since Mark introduced them to me back in 2010. I've owned several versions of the 3" wideband, and now own the newest one with the exotic aluminum-beryllium composite cone. This is a beautiful driver that exhibits all the best qualities of the earlier versions. Initially I was going to mount them in a factory position firing up at the windshield as I did with my NZ3's. With the proper tune this worked out well for me in the past. I really didn't want to get into fiberglassing A-pillars or dash pods with this build. That idea lasted only as long as it took me to try out the drivers on-axis mounted in t-shirts in the corners of the dash. WOW! These suckers really impressed me in that arrangement, especially given with the fact that they weren't broken in, no EQ and just a basic crossover/TA tune, and weren't even mounted to anything solid.











So...I tried this, and just kept going until I got something respectable. Special shout out to Ryan Slade (slade1234) for the custom routered speaker rings:








[/URL]





[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Just can't get enough of the smell of resin I guess. I'm sure you guys already know the steps.

1. Set speaker angle and hot glue ring to grill using dowels.
2. Spray adhesive on entire assembly (Loctite is my favorite).
3. Wrap assembly with grille cloth or jersey-knit t-shirt fabric (I used the latter because it stretches better).
4. Soak the fabric with resin.
5. Wait.
6. Sand evenly with various grits of sandpaper.
7. Fill low spots with lightweight body filler (Evercoat rocks!).
8. Wait.
9. Sand smooth with various grits of sandpaper.
10. Add resin jelly or body filler to the inner surfaces of the pod for strength and rigidity.
11. Wait.
12. Test fit, adjust, finish (paint, vinyl, flock, etc.)









[/URL]






[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

[/URL]





[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Time to paint. SEM makes the best spray paint for automotive interiors IMO. The stuff ain't cheap though ($15/can). I bought a tan and a brown because I didn't know which I would prefer. I tried the tan first as it was a better match. But ultimately I switched to brown because the tan was way too "visible" from the outside. But the brown doesn't quite match. It'll do for now though.








[/URL]



[/IMG]







[/URL]
[/IMG]


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

I love everything about it. What's the output on that amp? 

I hope you can make it to the next ncsq meet so I can hear it after all these upgrades


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

And if that's Ed sheeran - I see fire...my favorite song by him, give me goosebumps on a good stereo


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I'm digging the finished product. Not professional by any means, but for my first time making speaker 'pods' per se, I'm satisfied. I'll report back on how this all sounds after I get my tune on. Initial impression.....OMG.








[/URL]
[/IMG]


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

casey said:


> I love everything about it. What's the output on that amp?
> 
> I hope you can make it to the next ncsq meet so I can hear it after all these upgrades





casey said:


> And if that's Ed sheeran - I see fire...my favorite song by him, give me goosebumps on a good stereo



Hey Casey, thanks for staying up late Lol! Yes that is Ed Sheeran's "I See Fire" from the Desolation of Smaug soundrack. I love that song and I thought it was an appropriate title to show the glow of the tube pre-amp. The SB6 puts out a modest 100x2, 200x2, 300x1 in my configuration. It's only modest on paper though. If you've ever heard what a 50wpc rated McIntosh amp sounds like you know what I mean. The numbers do NOT tell the whole story with this beast. Headroom for days!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

So it's YOU that nabbed that headunit! Great score! I'm digging the whole install there, sir!


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Damn mike......nice job! Can't wait to hear this thing again one day......oh, and did all those folks inside point and laugh at you sitting in the truck taking pictures of yer work?.......lol.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Great job, and that amp is a beauty. Welcome to the darkside aka NJ where us SQ guys seem to far and wide apart lol.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Fantastic job Mike! You have incredible skills - displaying your electronics skills and now your fabricating skills......and I have had the pleasure of hearing the tuning skills as well. Well done on the doors and the pods - I'm very glad you are liking those new drivers so far!


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## j.key (Aug 27, 2013)

awesome build. Have you moved yet? i really wanna hear this thing before you leave.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

j.key said:


> awesome build. Have you moved yet? i really wanna hear this thing before you leave.


There are many........Mini-Meet at Mike's house!!!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

good work, there, dude!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks Daniel, Clay, Ben, Jason, Erin, and j.key (don't know your name yet, lol)!

I'm officially moving next Friday. I think I might be driving through the Greensboro area one day next week. Maybe we can hook up if time allows.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

Velozity said:


> Thanks Daniel, Clay, Ben, Jason, Erin, and j.key (don't know your name yet, lol)!
> 
> I'm officially moving next Friday. I think I might be driving through the Greensboro area one day next week. Maybe we can hook up if time allows.


If you do roll thru Gboro keep us updated. If Im able to Id be happy to meet up


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

casey said:


> If you do roll thru Gboro keep us updated. If Im able to Id be happy to meet up



Cool, will do. Maybe I can see you, Jason, and Clay at the same time (probably wishful thinking). I'll pm you and Clay my number. Jason has it. Any ideas for a nice meeting spot off of I-40?


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

If I'm free I'm definately in! Isn't four seasons mall right off 40? Hope yer timing hits when I'm free.......


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Once you're settled in New Jersey, dinner is on me.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

I think Jason will be in Raleigh area next week bc Im suppose to meet up with him. If you swing thru this way I'd love for us all to meet up


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## Phil Indeblanc (May 27, 2015)

Stumbled upon this post today.....

Wait till I get my jaw back off the floor.

ughmm, thanks.

So we have a total of 3 head units with EACH of them going into a surgical state of dis-assembly, and reassembly. 

Then we have 2 different Zuki amp installs, then a 3rd Steg, but that wasn't working out? What? So that had to all go for some completely new set of amps.

Then we add a DSP, but only along some other device I have no clue what its supposed to do next to the Helix.

But wait Mike!!!!, there's more!!!! (And if anyone has seen the Auri Shine car wax infomercial, you know I was referring to that British voice, not BigMikeBigTree!

So then the speakers get swapped out with baffles I almost used on my kitchen counters. I don't know why he didn't go with granite!

And finally at this stage he gets a new shifter knob to minimize distortion posts, and then changes the highs!!! With pods he makes on the dash...because firing them into the woindow wouldnt work? WTH??!!


SO, now I am here with my Highlander.... and I'm sitting here wondering why after all the time (about 3 months) I put into it, why I have yet to have it sound simply good to better than average. 


Well if Big Mike ever reads this and finds my 2014 Highlander build log, maybe he would have some points and advice as to the 2 or 3 weakest links in my build to start with 


That post/build log was just eye popping,. reading from page to page, and seeing all the stuff he went through to get the head units to work (btw, you might as well take a piece of plastic or a wire frame so you can shape the size of the MiniDisc slot and wrap it in the speaker cloth to close the gap. Or a fine mesh to trim and paint the color of it and snug it in place)....

I'm still not sure why 4 sets of amps had to have been run through the car to settle on those. And I thought my doors would be heavy by using the deadening all on the outer skin, and some inside vs the "30% is enough" rule!...
His doors can use some reinforced hinges!

Anyway. That entire post has me bummed about my setup, and not having it sounding good is rather shattering. This coming week there is someone who is going to help with my DSP tuning, but maybe my expectations with the gear I have are not realistic? Something a DSP cannot "fix"?

Mike, Well done, 3 or 4 times!...if your done/?
You have amazing patients, and family to give you a wealth of time, and your skills with the gear on another level are very...very respectable. I got a couple more rounds in me with my stealth Highlander/basic build, so not ready to give up yet.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Coppertone said:


> Once you're settled in New Jersey, dinner is on me.


Thanks Ben! We'll have to get up with Randy too.




Mic10is said:


> I think Jason will be in Raleigh area next week bc Im suppose to meet up with him. If you swing thru this way I'd love for us all to meet up



That's an option too. Would be good to see you Mic. I keep forgetting you moved to NC. Let's see what we can organize on short notice. I'm thinking like Wednesday evening.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Phil Indeblanc said:


> Stumbled upon this post today.....
> 
> Wait till I get my jaw back off the floor.
> 
> ...



Dude...that was awesome! Thanks! :beerchug:

And nice catch about the shift knob. I forgot to mention that I changed it since the last time people had such heartache over the "fugly" OEM one Lol.


...and no matter how many times I might say it, I don't think I'll ever be "done". But it sure is fun to try!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Thanks Ben! We'll have to get up with Randy too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Wednesday night is when Mic and I were planning to meet - would be perfect.


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## casey (Dec 4, 2006)

let me know. I will use that as an excuse to burn some of my ETO


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm on vacation all next week can I come too? :waves violently:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Been too long, time for an update.

I decided to rebuild my dash pods to accommodate a pair of AAT (ambiance transducers) per side. Previously I was just running the NZ3AlBe without AAT assistance up top. But I found the time and inspiration to redo the setup and work them in. Plus I am also adding a second Tru amp to my system, so I am doubling or tripling the power to the whole front stage. Gotta love this hobby...


I wanted to figure a way to work the AAT into the install without looking so odd. The AAT aren't really much to look at on their own. I had the idea of disguising them to look like tweeters. I started by securing an extra pair of AAT from my AP dealer-buddy, and a set of Scanspeak tweeter housings from my ex-teammate-buddy. 











I cut a 1.75" plug of ABS plastic to fit into the grille of a ScanSpeak D3004 tweeter. Then wired a pair of AATs in parallel with each other. Wired them up and hot glued them to the plug. After that I fit the plug into a modified flange made from a plastic wire grommet for computer desks. This is needed since the plug is slightly smaller in diameter than the tweeter mounting flange. After that all that was left was to hot glue the assembly together. Finished product looks like a normal tweeter from 2 feet away. The ScanSpeak grille really complements the NZ3AlBe grille too. More on that next.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I didn't take a lot of pics of rebuilding these dash pods because the process is essentially the same as I used last time. However I did do a couple of things differently. This time I used brand new OEM grilles as my base, and filled the speaker opening with body filler so that the whole pod would be sealed. Approximate volume is 1 liter. Also, I used a lot more resin and filler inside and out to make the structure sturdier. I painted more coats of a different color SEM paint (the best evar!) and used a texture coating this time ($27 per can!). Here's a few pics:


New pods (in process) in the middle, old pods on the outside. Using a slimmer baffle allowed me to change the angles to be more symmetrical between each pod.




















And finished product. The mounting screws were ordered from Madisound. They are the 3mm ones stocked specifically for the Scan tweets. Fits the mids as well!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Last but not least, thanks to another forum member I was able to get a Tru B475-S to match my Super Billet 6-S. This allows me to run 200w per NZ3AlBe, 300w per MW182, and 600w to my IDQ10. I am loving the headroom with this system!


10 channels (bridged to 5) of raw, clean, made in the USA power:





























I've got a new processor on the way and I'm making a few tweaks to my Panny, so I'll post another update when I'm done with all that. Thanks fer lookin'!


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## papasin (Jan 24, 2011)

Looks great! Would love to get a listen someday.


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Awesome work mike! Bet she's sounding sweet........hope ya make another meet soon.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You have to invite me over so that I can take a look/listen to this amazing setup.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

I have to make up a business need to take a trip up there to see you.....and get a demo.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Nice rebuild Mike. I really how you used a Scan tweeter cover for the AATs. Those dash pods look pretty sleek too. Hope to make it up for the Spring NC 2017 GTG and maybe I can demo it then.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks everyone, I'm happy with how things are turning out. I'm going to try out the MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8 and see how I can improve things further with custom biquad processing. I want to see if I can make this thing image equally well from both seats.




bertholomey said:


> I have to make up a business need to take a trip up there to see you.....and get a demo.


Jason, come on up! Actually I may be driving down in late May, I'll let you know.




Coppertone said:


> You have to invite me over so that I can take a look/listen to this amazing setup.


Ben, we definitely need to meet up. Also I might be going to the Syracuse event on April 3rd. You going?


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Look great, Mike. I can't wait to hear it! !!!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

RandyJ75 said:


> Look great, Mike. I can't wait to hear it! !!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk




Thanks Randy! I guess we'll start your install pretty soon? Looking forward to making that Solara sing.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Just a couple update pictures:

New amp rack cover courtesy of Home Depot and Joann Fabrics, lol:









Replaced one Panny with another. I love the look of these things:


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## Joe50302 (Jun 30, 2016)

Love the install. Very, very clean!


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## matdotcom2000 (Aug 16, 2005)

Did you recently install a iPad in the dash? If so pics please!!!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

This is one of my fav installs thanks for all nice pics of the install and gear is out standing !!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

matdotcom2000 said:


> Did you recently install a iPad in the dash? If so pics please!!!



Yes!! And I LOVE it. I took a few pics so I'll try to post them this evening.




optimaprime said:


> This is one of my fav installs thanks for all nice pics of the install and gear is out standing !!



Thanks!! :thumbsup:


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Since I was requested to show more pics of the iPad mini install, here it goes. I never thought I would give up on CDs in my car stereo but once I heard the sound of an iPad running direct digital into a processor playing Hi-Res files, I was bitten by the bug. 

First thing I had to do was make sure that my processor controller could be modified to mount cleanly to my dash since I would have to rely on it for system volume and muting. I use a MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8 and while the processor is great the controller is…um…not so much. I also didn’t like that the volume incremented in 3dB steps. Then MiniDSP released a firmware update that reduced the volume increment to 1.5dB steps. This is tolerable so I figured I would give it a shot. I took the controller apart to see what I was working with. My task was to extend the volume pot and preset buttons off the board so that they could be mounted to a custom panel. The pot was easy enough but the pushbuttons are smaller and would’ve been more work than I wanted to do because they are illuminated. So I decided to just extended the poles of the switches from the back side of the board so that I could install new switches in parallel on a new panel.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Before going too far I wanted to test the new signal chain to see if I would be happy with it. That meant I needed a way to extract the digital signal from my iPad mini. After researching I settled on the Apple Lightning to USB-3 adapter connected to an Ifi Nano iDSD. The iDSD takes the digital signal via USB from the iPad and converts it to S/PDIF coaxial. From there an Audioquest VDM-3 digital coax cable I’ve had stored for many years that I used before the time of HDMI found it’s new purpose. It connects the iDSD to my C-DSP processor. I added a 15W DC-DC converter to provide power to the iPad and the ifi Nano. I built the usb connections with raw parts from Digikey. From initial testing I was hooked. The pure digital signal into the C-DSP took the experience to a whole new level.


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Looks great! I can't wait to hear it.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Now to the fun part. First of all I bought a different iPad because my white 16GB one wasn’t going to cut it. My source is now a second-gen iPad mini 128GB with cellular. This gives me plenty of space for 24-bit files and the ability to stream internet radio and navigation right on my dash. All for only $10 more a month to my data plan! After pondering a while on how to economically mount the iPad and make it look integrated yet still removable, I figured out this solution. I used the thin case from the OmniMount ipad mini stand. I chose it because of its slim profile yet sturdy grip on the device. Also it allows me to use the Apple smart cover if I ever wanted to cover the screen. I hot glued and then molded it with lightweight Evercoat body filler to a Metra double-din dash kit for Toyota Tundra/Sequoia. I drilled an access hole in the dash kit to pass through the Lightning cable. I painted it with SEM metallic charcoal black paint. I rushed it so I’m going to need to go back and fill in some pits around the edges, but overall it turned out ok for the first pass. I like the look so I'll go back and perfect it later.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

RandyJ75 said:


> Looks great! I can't wait to hear it.


Thanks Randy, it's here whenever you want to come on over!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

As for the controller, I decided to use the location where my coin holder was. You can see it in one of my earlier dash pictures further up this log. For 4WD trucks there would be a 4WD switch there so luckily I didn’t have that to worry about. When I removed the coin holder it left me with a round opening about 3” diameter. I used some thin textured ABS that I had laying around to make a new switch panel. Then I drilled in holes for the potentiometer and the new pushbutton switches. I have tons of odds and ends electronic components so I was able to find 4 identical switches that would work perfectly.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

After testing it out I decided I wanted LEDs on the panel so I could tell which preset was active. Rather than go through the hassle of finding illuminated switches that would play nice with the LED drivers on the C-DSP remote board _and_ doing a lot more surgical soldering, I decided to do something a little unconventional. I used light pipes to “port” the blue LEDs on the remote to the new switch panel. Again, Digikey is awesome and they had just what I needed. The light pipes come with PCB mounting posts that just happened to fit the caps of the stock C-DSP switches. Well, it wasn’t exact but hot glue fixes everything!






































I should've ordered longer light pipes because my switch wires are longer but I didn't want to go too long and diminish the intensity of the light. So when it was put together the assembly has a bent "L" shape, but luckily there's enough room behind the dash panel to accomodate it. So it's not the prettiest bundle, but here's the finished new remote.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

After some fine sanding with ye ole trusty Dremel I was able to install the switch panel to the dash. It is glued in with silicone adhesive. By the way the switch panel is painted in SEM trim black. If you haven’t figured it out already I love SEM paints. I tested it out and it actually works!!
























So that pretty much wraps it up. Here are some final beauty shots. I'll post listening impressions at a later time. Enjoy!


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## Phil Indeblanc (May 27, 2015)

super sweet. Just aesthetically, I might want to paint the disc you mounted the knobs to a lighter color to match the one next to it, or just paint the other one black to match it. Just a bit more seamless....trust me, you don't need the contrast pop to see or notice what you did


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Just read your thread from beginning to end. Don't know how I missed this before. There's so many talented folks on this site, it's amazing. Nice work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Phil Indeblanc said:


> super sweet. Just aesthetically, I might want to paint the disc you mounted the knobs to a lighter color to match the one next to it, or just paint the other one black to match it. Just a bit more seamless....trust me, you don't need the contrast pop to see or notice what you did



Thanks for the feedback Phil!




BlueAc said:


> Just read your thread from beginning to end. Don't know how I missed this before. There's so many talented folks on this site, it's amazing. Nice work!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thank you! It's a lot of fun.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Absolutely amazing again Mike! I always enjoy your posts - pushing the boundaries  I need to find a way up there to get a listen - or meet you at Ian's in Virginia - you and Benjamin can convoy over


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

bertholomey said:


> Absolutely amazing again Mike! I always enjoy your posts - pushing the boundaries  I need to find a way up there to get a listen - or meet you at Ian's in Virginia - you and Benjamin can convoy over



Thanks again Jason! Meeting at Ian's sounds like a good idea. I'm probably also going to put together another GTG in early spring.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

FanFreakinTastic!!!!!!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Awesome stuff here, Mike!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

chefhow said:


> FanFreakinTastic!!!!!!





ErinH said:


> Awesome stuff here, Mike!





Thanks Bros.! You know how we do!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I'm definitely tuned in. 

I have an incredibly hard time finding a headunit I'm completely happy with and the 128gb iPad option looks like a strong contender. Especially when the Helix USB module becomes available. I stream music through Apple Music a lot but also have a very large library of quality tracks and was thinking I would use the iPad act as the media source (stream music using my iPHone as the hotspot but also play from internal storage). 


I don't want to clog up your thread with my struggles, lol, but I would be curious to hear more about your impressions of the new iPad setup as far as function goes. Any issues with using in the daylight? If so, maybe a little 'hood' to help that? Just curious of any issues you may have ran in to after the honeymoon period. TIA, Mike.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

ErinH said:


> I'm definitely tuned in.
> 
> I have an incredibly hard time finding a headunit I'm completely happy with and the 128gb iPad option looks like a strong contender. Especially when the Helix USB module becomes available. I stream music through Apple Music a lot but also have a very large library of quality tracks and was thinking I would use the iPad act as the media source (stream music using my iPHone as the hotspot but also play from internal storage).
> 
> ...




Hey Erin. The only issue I ran into is power related, because I'm getting some sort of discharge feedback from the iPad or DC-DC converter or iDSD into my vehicle ignition circuit when I turn the ignition off. I fix the issue temporarily by just turning the iPad completely off when I turn off the ignition (or just disconnect it), but the permanent fix will be to put a diode on the ignition line where the DC-DC converter is connected. Aside from that the honeymoon period did not produce any regrets or changes that I need to make. I preempted any glare issues by angling the iPad mount towards the driver seat and as vertical as possible while still maintaining good aesthetics. Sometimes I don't like reaching for the screen to change tracks and pause, but that can be remedied by adding a Satechi bluetooth remote. That's on the to-do list. Also you'll want to be sure to pick a good Hi-Res player app that will display in landscape mode and have scaleable text / font. I absolutely recommend the KaiserTone app, but it ain't cheap. Also, iHeart Radio has a driver-friendly version of their app that was developed primarily for Apple Car Play, and the difference is larger text and fewer buttons / swipes to get what you need. 

So that's really it. If I had five rules for using an iPad source in a car they would be:

1. Angle the tablet towards you and adjust so the reflections from the windshield, windows, or sunroof don't go towards your eyes. Most times that means you wont get a perfect flush mount in the dash, but you know, function over form is sometimes the best. 

2. Choose "display-friendly" apps that are legible and can be manipulated from 3' away.

3. Get a bluetooth remote for iOS, and mount your processor's MVC close to your natural hand rest position.

4. Don't skimp on the USB-SPDIF converter. You want asynchronous and low-jitter. If you can choose a processor with iOS-compatible direct USB input, you can skip this.

5. Provide the iPad with a clean, regulated 5V power supply. Use the new USB-3 Apple Camera Kit so the iPad can be simultaneously powered while outputting digital signals over USB. Remember the USB converter's current requirements when choosing a power supply size. 15W should be the minimum. 20-25W is recommended.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Time for an update! In the everlasting quest for SQ bliss, it is time to finally replace the last remaining component from the first iteration of this build: my beloved Image Dynamics IDQ10v.2 subwoofer. This sub sounds so good in my application that I really didn't think I would ever replace it. And I was tempted several times by a Morel Ultimo 10, JL 10TW3, Sundown SD-2, and Stereo Integrity BMmkIV. But each time I was ready to pull the trigger the IDQ just kept pulling me back in with its musicality and transparency. On many occasions SQ people that have heard my truck over the last 5 years have told me that I had excellent sub-bass to mid-bass transition. I owe an awful lot of that to how well controlled the IDQ is. The Fs of the IDQ is something like 21Hz, insanely low for a 10. It works in enclosures from .3-.6 cubes and sounds amazing. It is truly my favorite sub-- actually it's a tie with my Infinity Beta 12s which will get buried with me, lol. I've had the IDQ powered by amps from Zuki, Lunar, Steg, and Tru and it handles all of them with ease. Just a great, great, sub. 

Anyway, so what sub finally made me pull the trigger and uninstall the IDQ after 5 glorious years in my passenger footwell?? It was pm's with Eric Stevens over a year or so and meeting / conversing with Matt Borgardt since CES this year that brought me on board for the OnCore SM10! So I didn't really leave the ID lineage. This SM10 is like an IDQ10 brought into modern times and given performance-enhancing drugs. I'll just say I'm a very happy fella. Initial listening impressions below the pictures.


In case you forgot, my sub is here:











Here is the IDQ in all her glory:











And the packaging for the OnCore SM10. It is shipped mounted to a board!:



















Several comparison shots vs. the IDQ:



































Now some of the SM10's beefy ass. This is a heavy little sub:



















My only critique at this point is that I wish the binding posts had a little larger opening. It was tricky to get true 12GA wire in there without fraying. It sure beats the .250" spades on the IDQ though:



























It fits into the mounting hole I made for the IDQ without modification, yay! The screw holes from the IDQ could not be reused because the SM10 has a larger O.D. In fact this thing measures more like an 11" sub than a 10" one. (sounds like it too ): 



















...and done. Please excuse my dirty floor mat.















Initial listening impression: WOW!!!!!!!! I thought I had quality bass before, but this ish is just unreal. Even my wife was impressed, and she's an old-school hip-hop bass-lover (she's the one driving around with the Beta 12s everyday, lol). The IDQ had mean kick and punch, but below 32Hz or so was there, but not _there_. I was really relying on cabin gain. Now the SM10 seems to have pushed the low-end frequency response down by 20Hz and I'm getting punch _and _extension. I was feeling my pants legs move in ways I haven't felt since...wait, what was I saying? Oh... In no way have I ever heard something classified as a 10" sub sound quite like this.

Alas it's not broken in yet, so I'll hold off on my critical review for a few weeks, but my first impression to Matt and the team at OnCore is :2thumbsup:.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

That is fantastic - so fun to get gear that can really rekindle that enthusiasm! Man.....I wish you were able to make it down to NC for us boys to get a good listen!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Me too Jason, me too. One day we'll hook up again. I've been bitten hard by the high-end headphone bug, so we needs to talk, lol.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Oh nooooooos........friend.........that rabbit hole will swaller you up for good - we will never see you again  I'm agonizing over a cable choice right now (agonizing is so strong.....ultimate 1st world thing). Give me a call today / this weekend


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## thereddestdog (Feb 21, 2017)

Epic log you have here.. looks amazing


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## nstaln (Feb 11, 2009)

I have a couple of questions regarding the ipad install..

Do you typically leave the ipad in the vehicle and if so how do you handle sleep/wake functionality? The reason I ask is because I've been wanting to do something similar but I'm not sure how to integrate power in such a way that the ipad activates with the acc then sleeps when the key is turned off.

I would like the ipad to function as close to an OEM device as possible...I want to avoid having to manually turn it on/off every time I want to use it.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

thereddestdog said:


> Epic log you have here.. looks amazing


Thank ye!




nstaln said:


> I have a couple of questions regarding the ipad install..
> 
> Do you typically leave the ipad in the vehicle and if so how do you handle sleep/wake functionality? The reason I ask is because I've been wanting to do something similar but I'm not sure how to integrate power in such a way that the ipad activates with the acc then sleeps when the key is turned off.
> 
> I would like the ipad to function as close to an OEM device as possible...I want to avoid having to manually turn it on/off every time I want to use it.



No I take the iPad out when I don't want to use it in the truck. The mounting angle allows me to do this easily. Also, if I'm out and about I use the Apple Smart Cover while it's in the dash. So whenever the cover is up the iPad is awake. It also wakes when getting ACC power through the lightning -to-USB3 adapter. The music automatically pauses when power is removed from ACC. At that point I either close the cover (or hit the power button if the cover is not present) or just remove the iPad from the dash.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Reviewing this log now..

Really wish I made time to take a listen this past Sunday 

Did you run into any noise issues w/ the mini 8x12 I've been hearing/reading about elsewhere?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Truthunter said:


> Reviewing this log now..
> 
> Really wish I made time to take a listen this past Sunday
> 
> Did you run into any noise issues w/ the mini 8x12 I've been hearing/reading about elsewhere?




No worries, you can listen at some point in the near future. I don't plan on making any significant changes besides adding rear fill. I'm also toying with the idea of removing the dash pods and building into the pillars. Not sure on that one yet.

I don't have any noise issues with the 8x12 and I didn't with the 6x8 either. I know others have had problems but I've been fortunate not to. I think it's very installation dependent. I have nothing but praise for the MiniDSP. You made a good move buying one.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Good to hear about the 8x12.

Really need to hear that Oncore 10 footwell setup... very well may be the direction I go when it comes time for me to add that last bottom octave.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Velozity said:


> No worries, you can listen at some point in the near future. I don't plan on making any significant changes besides adding rear fill. I'm also toying with the idea of removing the dash pods and building into the pillars. Not sure on that one yet.
> 
> I don't have any noise issues with the 8x12 and I didn't with the 6x8 either. I know others have had problems but I've been fortunate not to. I think it's very installation dependent. I have nothing but praise for the MiniDSP. You made a good move buying one.


Good to hear Mike. And nice to see someone else coming over to the rearfill side...I know that sounded dirty:surprised:All jokes aside, rearfill has added that 3rd dimension that really throws the stage up and out. One question...is the 20+ms of delay readily available on the 8x12? I'm using factory headunit with factory amp bypassed and my 2x4 with rear plug-in is at 24.58ms to get the L-R rearfill where it needs to be. Obviously no headunit delay to make up the difference where the processor tops out. And I agree the noise issues have to be user error for the most part. I can make my 6x8 have the same issues the 6x8 and 8x12 are having with improper gain structure. And the 8x12 has 10 peq bands for each input and output correct?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Good to hear Mike. And nice to see someone else coming over to the rearfill side...I know that sounded dirty:surprised:All jokes aside, rearfill has added that 3rd dimension that really throws the stage up and out. One question...is the 20+ms of delay readily available on the 8x12? I'm using factory headunit with factory amp bypassed and my 2x4 with rear plug-in is at 24.58ms to get the L-R rearfill where it needs to be. Obviously no headunit delay to make up the difference where the processor tops out. And I agree the noise issues have to be user error for the most part. I can make my 6x8 have the same issues the 6x8 and 8x12 are having with improper gain structure. And the 8x12 has 10 peq bands for each input and output correct?




Yes I can't wait to find a free weekend to get the rearfill in. I'm going a little old-school with Audible Physics Ebony in the rear doors and Trinity in the D-pillar. The 8x12 allows 25ms of delay on each output and differential input mixing so I'm good there. You're correct the 8x12 has 10 PEQ bands for each input _and_ output. The signal processing capability is insane (not to mention the internal 32-bit / 192kHz processing path). I don't have noise on the digital input for the iPad nor the analog input I use for aux-in. Absolutely proper gain structure is key.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

I'm just using the factory 2.75" d-pillar rears crossed 400-4000. Need to play around with it more since I hear the lower the lowpass the bigger the "room" feels because of how sound waves bounce off the back wall in a real venue. They're up high and nearly on axis. Works good though since the output is so low. You really are olskool on the Ebony and Trinity.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

What would you lower the LP to? 2kHz?


Damn, I just realized photobucket deactivated my free account. So all my pictures older than last July aren't showing up in the thread. I'll re-upload most of the important ones to imgur and edit my older posts. I have 5 years worth of pictures to go through so bear with me, lol.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Velozity said:


> What would you lower the LP to? 2kHz?


Just caught this. Was a little overloaded yesterday with having to get my dog with lymph node cancer put down (wind pipe was getting clamped off from the swelling) AND get a rental after putting my Grand Cherokee in the shop after some ******* trashed the rear hatch, bumper, and where the hitch bolts in underneath

Anyway, I'll probably give 3000 and then 2000 and try. And mess with different output levels of course. Right now 400-4000 is providing more space than the original starting point of 350-5000. I didn't even think about using the rear doors to help out the tiny d-pillar rears. Can easily tap into them where the factory amp wiring is. I'm guessing you'd just delay the d-pillars and back doors like you would front doors and pillars? On the flip side I feel like using the back doors would just overcomplicate things unless you're wanting to send a full signal to the set for rear passengers. Those trinities should be good from around 300 and up and will be more than enough for the super low output needed for L-R rearfill. Not sure if you've ever heard a L-R rearfill car with just the rears on but there's practically nothing coming out of them. Amazing how much they do to enhance the fronts while doing so little.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Just caught this. Was a little overloaded yesterday with having to get my dog with lymph node cancer put down (wind pipe was getting clamped off from the swelling) AND get a rental after putting my Grand Cherokee in the shop after some ******* trashed the rear hatch, bumper, and where the hitch bolts in underneath
> 
> Anyway, I'll probably give 3000 and then 2000 and try. And mess with different output levels of course. Right now 400-4000 is providing more space than the original starting point of 350-5000. I didn't even think about using the rear doors to help out the tiny d-pillar rears. Can easily tap into them where the factory amp wiring is. I'm guessing you'd just delay the d-pillars and back doors like you would front doors and pillars? On the flip side I feel like using the back doors would just overcomplicate things unless you're wanting to send a full signal to the set for rear passengers. Those trinities should be good from around 300 and up and will be more than enough for the super low output needed for L-R rearfill. Not sure if you've ever heard a L-R rearfill car with just the rears on but there's practically nothing coming out of them. Amazing how much they do to enhance the fronts while doing so little.



Yes the main purpose for the rear door speakers is a separate full-range street tune for when rear passengers want to jam out also. But since I have the processing power I can easily experiment with them as SQ rear fill in conjunction with the d-pillar speakers. Either way they still need to be amplified separately so it's just a matter of which preset I select.


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## outroku (Jul 20, 2014)

nstaln said:


> I have a couple of questions regarding the ipad install..
> 
> Do you typically leave the ipad in the vehicle and if so how do you handle sleep/wake functionality? The reason I ask is because I've been wanting to do something similar but I'm not sure how to integrate power in such a way that the ipad activates with the acc then sleeps when the key is turned off.
> 
> I would like the ipad to function as close to an OEM device as possible...I want to avoid having to manually turn it on/off every time I want to use it.


The ONLY way I have found you can have the ipad to function as close to an OEM device as possible and handle sleep/wake functionality is by jailbreaking the ipad. The only ipads you can do this to are ios 9.3.3 and below. I don't care what you read or hear, any ios thereafter cannot be jailbroken for a substantial length of time. The jailbreaks are linked here.

I have three ipad minis, all 128G w Cellular. ios 9.0.2, 9.3.2 and 9.3.3. They all are jailbroken and will shut down during ignition off (so that it does not drain the ipad's battery) and will power up upon ignition and most importantly, open to your music app of your choice. IMO, this function is why you go through the trouble of obtaining an ipad with ios 9.3.3 and earlier.

If you are fortunate to have ios 9.3.3 or earlier, when you jailbreak your ipad, you launch the Cydia app and install an app called Activator. You open that and make these 3 settings:


























Those 3 settings will allow the ipad to function as close to an OEM device as possible.

Obviously, I'm currently running a music app called Leechtunes (have been for 3 years), which is fantastic for 16/44.1 files. I'm finally at the point where I'm ready to make the leap to 24/96 and 24/192 files, thus I plan to purchase an ifi audio usb to SPDIF converter (which I'm hoping Velozity will help me with).  I'm leaning hard towards the ifi iLink (unless Velozity can convince me towards the nano iDSD).

The one caveat I have found is the Apple Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter is incompatible with my ios 9.0.2 ipad, but is compatible with my 9.3.2 and 9.3.3 ipads. I have no idea why. Perhaps someone can chime in and answer.

Do not mean to hijack Velozity's thread. I just wanted to answer this poster's questions as thoroughly as possible.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

That's good info outroku. Thanks for that, I've always wondered what it takes to jailbreak these. I've already updated to ios 10.3 so I can't use it though. Regarding the USB-to-S/PDIF converter, I stuck with the iDSD Nano. Mainly becasue the iLink is hard to find at a decent price. The nano does what I need, it's smaller, and can double as a headphone dac/amp if I remove it. I did take the battery out of the Nano so it would not switch to battery mode. This was at the suggestion/tip of tech support at Ifi Audio (but it does void your warranty). An iLink would be better in this regard since it has no battery. Sound-quality wise the iLink is probably better (certainly can send a higher voltage), but I don't think it will be a drastic improvement. The Nano still has the same proprietary anti-jitter technology so I'm satisfied.


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## outroku (Jul 20, 2014)

Velozity said:


> That's good info outroku. Thanks for that, I've always wondered what it takes to jailbreak these. I've already updated to ios 10.3 so I can't use it though. Regarding the USB-to-S/PDIF converter, I stuck with the iDSD Nano. Mainly becasue the iLink is hard to find at a decent price. The nano does what I need, it's smaller, and can double as a headphone dac/amp if I remove it. I did take the battery out of the Nano so it would not switch to battery mode. This was at the suggestion/tip of tech support at Ifi Audio (but it does void your warranty). An iLink would be better in this regard since it has no battery. Sound-quality wise the iLink is probably better (certainly can send a higher voltage), but I don't think it will be a drastic improvement. The Nano still has the same proprietary anti-jitter technology so I'm satisfied.


Thanks for the update! After much research and persistence, I located a new iLink from an ifi dealer for $264. Just opened it tonight. Looking forward to seeing how it will function with a jailbroken ipad.


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## outroku (Jul 20, 2014)

Velozity said:


>


How did you get the McIntosh Amp at the top of your music app? Is that a special desktop download? Or does it come standard with the Kaisertone app?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

outroku said:


> How did you get the McIntosh Amp at the top of your music app? Is that a special desktop download? Or does it come standard with the Kaisertone app?




It's the McIntosh music player app.


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## outroku (Jul 20, 2014)

Velozity said:


> It's the McIntosh music player app.


Oh ok cool! Thought it was Kaisertone since that was your first two ipad pics. I'll check it out.

Does it support hi res files?


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Sheesh, has it been a year already?? Well, I finally have some updates to the Big Tree. My hobby time is drastically reduced now that I've had my third child, but I somehow managed to finish (well, 95% anyway) my version 4.0 front stage build. Since my last post in this log I've changed amps twice. In November I went from the two Tru Billets to a trio of Zapco Studio amps (ST-5Xii(2), ST-1350XMii(1)). Believe it or not it actually wasn't as much of a downgrade as I thought. I was pleasantly surprised 'cause those Zapco amps are legit! Before I move on here is a pic of what they looked like while they were installed.











The reason for switching to the Zapcos was so I could fit more channels in the same space. Just physically impossible to do that with Tru amps, those beautiful large beasts they are. I wanted more channels so I could take full advantage the C-DSP 8x12 and add rear fill. So here's how that all panned out...



.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Rear Fill*


In keeping with my admiration of Audible Physics drivers, I chose to go old school for my rear fill and went with Ebony 7" midbases for the rear doors and Trinity 3" wideband midranges for the D-pillars. The 4 new speakers brought my channel count to 9. With the Zapcos, each ST-5Xii ran one side of the vehicle, with the ST-1350XMii of course running the sub.

Installing the Trinities in the D-Pillar presented a bit of a challenge, but in the end I was able to mount them to the factory grill using a metal grille ring and seal off the front and rear baffles by building up body filler. The foil on the outside is just Raamat to seal up any holes I may have missed.















































Then I just reinstalled the assemblies to the D-Pillar. From the outside you can't tell anything was done.

PIC


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Rear Fill*


For the Ebonys in the doors, I used pretty much the same process as I did to install the MW182s up front. I filled holes in the inner door panel with plexiglas, sealed up smaller ones with Raamat, mounted the speaker to a baffle made of Corian (my signature baffle material), and finshed the whole thing up with a layer of Ensolie peel-n-stick. The tricky part was the speaker wire routing as I had to drill through a connector so the wiring would route inside the door grommet rubber tubing. Some cursing, coaxing, and WD40 got her done.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

I dialed in the rear fill and enjoyed the heck out of it for a few months, then I got an opportunity on some new amps I couldn't pass up. So, out went the Zapcos and in came three brand new Rockford Fosgate Power Series amps. I have a T1000-4ad, T600-4, and T1500-1bdCP. This is the most power I've ever had in this vehicle (or any other) at one time. Did I hear someone say headroom?

Here they are after install (and how they still sit now). 











I plan to finish the rack a little more with a beauty trim ring. I've already got the board marked and measured, just need to pull out the jigsaw and cut it. That's a low priority right now though, as the next phase is to replace and upgrade the front stage. Tomorrow I'll get post up that process, which I actually just finished installing today. I can't wait to get tuning! 

.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

how do you like the RF amps?


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## GEM592 (Jun 19, 2015)

Velozity said:


> ‘Sup. So in the 5 or 6 years that I've been really into car SQ and competition-level systems, I've never done a build log. I took the year off from competing in 2012 so that I could re-focus myself (and my money) and decide if I wanted to continue in the hobby, and if so how to raise the bar. The Highlander was very good, but I was never completely satisfied with it (are we ever?) and I was just driving it temporarily anyway. So I built a competition system in it (actually it evolved into one, but wasn't originally planned) just because it was what I had to drive. Well now my wife is driving it again, and I was able to get a much manlier vehicle with a size that "fits" me better.
> 
> 
> Enter my new ride, a 2008 Toyota Sequoia, affectionately called Big Tree (Sequoia is the name of the huge redwood trees found in California). If you saw the Highlander you know I had to put some BBS's on this beast too:
> ...


I must have missed the KISS part, was that the blood, sweat and tears?


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks for the update Mike - looks great - let us know how the rear fill works out. 


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

This thread is crazy! Velozity, you got madd engineering skills! What made you go from unique uncommon amps to RF? I'm not hating, I still have 2 Punch 45's collecting dust in my basement.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Nice updates, broski.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Nice! Hopefully you can bring it to the 3x at my shop this weekend 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

optimaprime said:


> how do you like the RF amps?



I like them because they do the job and don't get in the way. They're not the absolutely most resolving amps I've had (Steg/Sinfoni owns that title), nor the cleanest (Tru owns that title), nor the warmest (Zuki owns that title), but they're close enough on each that I don't really miss having "boutique" amps anymore. And for the deal I got it was a no-brainer.





GEM592 said:


> I must have missed the KISS part, was that the blood, sweat and tears?



LOL, this build has gone far beyond my original design criteria. I started it six years ago.





bertholomey said:


> Thanks for the update Mike - looks great - let us know how the rear fill works out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Just tryin' to be cool like you J. I'm totally sold on rear fill. I'll get into that more in a later post.





BP1Fanatic said:


> This thread is crazy! Velozity, you got madd engineering skills! What made you go from unique uncommon amps to RF? I'm not hating, I still have 2 Punch 45's collecting dust in my basement.



Thanks! And read above, lol.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

ErinH said:


> Nice updates, broski.



Thanks Teddy Brosevelt.




SkizeR said:


> Nice! Hopefully you can bring it to the 3x at my shop this weekend
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk



I want to come just to check out your spot. I just started asking for permission tonight. Hopefully by Sunday I'll wear her down, lol.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Front Stage*

Ok, so on to the new front stage. I'm pretty much an Audible Physics fanboy. I'm just going to go ahead and put that out there. I fell in love ever since I installed the XR6.5M midbasses in my Highlander just before Finals in 2010. Rishi makes damn good drivers. They have a sound signature that just does it for me. So, when opportunity knocked and asked me if I wanted to replace my NZ3AlBe wideband midranges with an even better AP speaker, I was like _yes please_! So it should come as no surprise that the new RG100.4 has made its way into my vehicle.

The RG100 is a 4" driver, and the NZ3AlBe, badass as it is, is a 3" driver. I wanted to be able to play lower and louder on the dash. So new dash pods were in order. This time I decided to do it "right" and build deep into the pillars. This maximizes PLD and increases stage width. I also was adding a tweeter for the first time in this vehicle. The tweeter is the matching (well, sonically at least-- more on that later) RG50. I debated whether or not to run the tweeter active or passive with a custom crossover. I literally stressed over this for like a month trying to make up my mind. I really wanted to build a top notch passive, but after pricing out the Clarity Caps and Jantzen inductors, plus factoring in a place to put them, I ultimately decided to just run the tweeters active. Sooo, I researched a bit and ordered the smallest, reasonably priced class-AB 2-ch amp I could find- the Zapco ST-2X SQ. I installed it in my center console near my MiniDSP 8x12. I had already run a separate fused 8 gauge wire to the dash area for the DC-DC converter of my Clarion DRZ units. So I repurposed this for the tweeter amp power wire. It's grounded to a factory ground bolt. No pics of all that minutia, but you get the point.












Rather than build off the pillars, I wanted a sealed pod that fit to the dash. The RG100 needs 1.5L of volume for optimal operation. So that's what I set out to build. First step is to buy a pair of used A-pillars on eBay to use as mules. I wanted the ability to put my truck back to stock-ish if needed. I measured the approximate area needed for the pods and then cut the bottom of the pillars off. 






















Next step is to mask off the dash, and draw a base shape. I set the grille rings in place for reference. The Sequoia dash is not the best candidate for something like this. It's relatively shallow and the driver side hump is massive. But I figured with careful maneuvering I could make it work and still pull off the angles I wanted. I also rearranged the factory connectors and foam-taped them down to the sheetmetal to be out of the way.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Front Stage*

Time for my favorite thing in the whole world, fiberglass! _*maximum sarcasm*_ You guys all know the process. Tape off, protect area, cut fiberglass mat into small strips, soak with resin, build shape by overlapping layers, let dry/set, pull shape and trim..etc. I used Evercoat resin this time and it's much better to work with than the cheaper Bondo stuff.

































































My dog keeping me company.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Front Stage*

Once had had the base shape ready, I cut baffles out of 1/4" MDF. It's a simple teardrop shape that keeps the tweeter and midrange on the same plane and as close together as possible. This improves polar response at the crossover region and minimizes the need for time alignment between the two drivers. I hot-glued the baffle in place and supported it with dowel rods. This was trial and error until I got the angles I wanted on each side.












Next step is to wrap the whole thing in grille cloth and apply resin to create the enclosure.











Once I test fit them it became evident that they didn't quite morph into the exact curves I wanted in a couple spots, so I used modelling clay to fine tune the shape, and then put resin over that. I had no idea how it would work out since the modeling clay never really dries, but it actually worked surprisingly well. With the resin cured it was hard enough to use body filler on but not so hard that I couldn't force a few final changes with my hands. After sanding the outside the last step was to fill the inside of the pods with milkshake. The USC lightweight filler worked great with the Evercoat resin. I did about 60/40 filler to resin ratio. Tip: Mix them separately with their respective hardeners, then mix the two together. Stir until a mint-colored milkshake appears and start pourin'!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Front Stage*

I filled both pods with water to check for seal and to measure the volume. Both pods measured almost exactly 1.5L. In fact they were a hair over. So with speaker displacement I should be right on. I either got lucky or it was really good pre-planning, lol. Last steps are to cover the pods and a-pillars in headliner fabric. It certainly could be better but I think they turned out ok based on my amateur wrapping skills. I'll probably re-wrap a later date anyway.


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

*Finshed Product*


So here are my new beauties, installed and peforming wonderfully. I bypassed all EQ for these drivers and just did some crossover and level tweaking so far. They sound freaking amazing. I was running the NZ3AlBe down to 350Hz. I've dropped these to 200Hz and was floored at the difference. And with these angles the stage depth and width both significantly increased. I'm very happy I installed these. The mids are run off of the T1000-4ad (250wpc) and the tweeters are on the ST-2X SQ (65wpc). As I tune more I'll post up more sound impressions. But for now I'm in sonic bliss!


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Those look incredible! Well done and thanks for the step by step description of the process. I heard these in Michael Myers car and was incredibly impressed - I’d love to hear them in Big Tree!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

bertholomey said:


> Those look incredible! Well done and thanks for the step by step description of the process. I heard these in Michael Myers car and was incredibly impressed - I’d love to hear them in Big Tree!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks again Jason! Yes I definitely need to get your opinion on the overall tune someday. It will happen...eventually


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Well done sir, VERY well done!!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

chefhow said:


> Well done sir, VERY well done!!



Thanks Howard! I miss the good ol' days... A team reunion would be nice.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Thanks Howard! I miss the good ol' days... A team reunion would be nice.



It would be. Wish I was closer to the east coast guys.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Velozity said:


> Thanks Howard! I miss the good ol' days... A team reunion would be nice.


You know, I've still got my jersey... just sayin'.


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## Ridgerunner (Jul 23, 2018)

What an incredible and progressive build thread. Thanks for sharing over the years I will defiantly be referencing your work for my 4Runner build.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

ErinH said:


> You know, I've still got my jersey... just sayin'.


So do I....


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Kinda upset that i was to busy on sunday to take a listen :/ It definitely looks good though


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## D34dl1fter (Jun 23, 2016)

Truck sounded great at the show ! 

Very lively and smooooooooth, hopefully still rocking preset 3!


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## Velozity (Jul 6, 2007)

Thanks guys!

Yes Josh, preset 3 will be the default to build on now. I probably could've gotten a few more points had I tuned it that way before judging. Just not enough time to really tweak the tune before the show. It was a last minute decision to attend. I'll be more prepared next time. I really just wanted the feedback so mission accomplished. 

BTW your Versa is in another league. That thing is a freakin' monster! I haven't heard Blue Man Group sound like that since seeing them live in Vegas.


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## invincible7 (Feb 22, 2011)

Well what a journey, it really takes you all through different stages of the build in detail and that is a commendable effort. Its interesting to note that you moved from some of the most sought out exclusive amps to RF's (though they are absolutely good and I am using a mono from them as well), wonder if you exchanged them to earlier ones or they went into your dungeon of old school goodie amps. AP RG's are monster and I was floored hearing them too very recently, and like yourself I too am using AP NZ's and I could clearly see what RG brings to the table - marvelous lil monsters I say.

Many Congratulations and keep rocking !


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

Velozity said:


> I like them because they do the job and don't get in the way. They're not the absolutely most resolving amps I've had (Steg/Sinfoni owns that title), nor the cleanest (Tru owns that title), nor the warmest (Zuki owns that title), but they're close enough on each that I don't really miss having "boutique" amps anymore. And for the deal I got it was a no-brainer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those Rockford are no joke. As long as they are the A/Bs not the newer AD’s which are still good just not as good as these. Check out the review and testing on hifitest.de - those t600-4 and t1000-4 have 0.01% distortion. Seriously low like on par with ground zero reference brax and helix c four. Don’t believe me check out the testing for yourself on hifitest.de - I’m considering using these for an upcoming build I just want to figure out a way to bypass the punch EQ and crossovers...


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