# 2001 C5 Corvette Build Log-Kenwood, Alpine, Fosgate, ARC, HAT



## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Dennis at Double D Mods supplied about 90% of this build.

Head Unit: Kenwood DNX891HD (in a DD modded bezel of course).
Signal Processor: Alpine PXA-H800
Controller: Alpine RUX-C800
Sub Amplifier: Old School Rockford Fosgate Power 1000C in chrome
Mids + Highs Amplifier: Rockford Fosgate Power 650 (4" fan in Chrome)
Rear Fill Amplifier: Old School Rockford Fosgate Punch 150 
Subwoofers: Two Arc Audio Black Series 12's
More Subs: Two Arc Audio Black Series 10's
Mid Range: Legatia L6V2's
Legatia L3SE's
Rear Fill: Legatia L6V2's
Highs: Legatia L1V2's in A-pillars and in door handles.

Battery Isolator: 300 Amp Power-Gate Dual Rectifier By Perfect Switch
Cranking Battery: Die-Hard Platinum
System Batteries: Red Top Optima X 2 (Die-Hard wouldn't fit

Sound Deadener: RAAMmat and Ensolite
Sirius/XM Radio
Front and Rear Cameras

All wiring, connections and install supplies from KnuKonceptz.

This project will absolutely tax my skills, patience and wallet to the max.
I just hope it turns out like I envision it. The last build I did was probably in 1986 or 1987. Nothing elaborate or anywhere near the magnitude of this. Technology has really changed in almost 30 years. 

Feel free to ask any questions. If I don't know the answer I can surely B.S. it...

And so this story begins....

The dis-assembly stage.




































































































RAAMmat Installation begins...

























































































































































































































Installation of the Ensolite begins...




































































































I am basically at a stand still waiting on equipment to arrive. I work offshore 14/14 so updates won't be coming for about 2.5 weeks.


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Been waiting for this since your system design thread. Great job so far!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Thanks guy. A long way to go though.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Is this who I think it is...
Are you located in the south in the USA?


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

That would be me.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

reath1 said:


> That would be me.


I am watching.
Did you get all the equipment you shared with me about?


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## RandyJ75 (Dec 4, 2006)

Your going to love the difference the sound deadening makes. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Glad to see you got the DD bezel.

Randy


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## Bret Triano (May 16, 2014)

Is that chocolate milk I see? ;D probly not :c

It looks good so far, and all that sound deadening, I'm sure its gonna sound pretty swell aswell!


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Coffee and lot's of it...lol. And I really hope the sound deadening makes a substantial difference. Vette's are build as thin and light as possible so there is naturally quite a bit of road noise. I hope it pays off. It was two full days of work to strip it and deaden it because I tried to cover every exposed inch of it. I don't mind the work if there is a real benefit.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Guru's that know much more than myself. After calculating, I may be slightly under-watting the subs. Should I build my boxes slightly larger than recommended, slightly smaller or the optimum size? As a matter of fact, with the limitations my boxes may be slightly larger than optimum due to the way the subs have to be oriented to clear the targa top when off and in the back. 

What say you?

Thanks in advance.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Lovin' the old school RF Power amps. I have 2 of the black 2" fan 650's I've been wanting use but haven't found a way to work them in anything. Will be following this build.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

bigbubba said:


> Lovin' the old school RF Power amps. I have 2 of the black 2" fan 650's I've been wanting use but haven't found a way to work them in anything. Will be following this build.


Yea bubba, I am hoping that the ole school RF power will pull this off. Those Arc subs are really stiff. Back in the 80's when I was into this stuff I mainly ran Punch 150's and I have blown the foam and burnt voice coils on four 15's before. Much different subs of today compared to back then though. 

The 650's are great amps, 2" or 4" but the 4" are pretty rare and 4" chrome is very rare. I remember 650's in the past being very clean on the front stage. Hope it holds true today. Find something to put them in do let them be shelf queens.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Well...I've been offshore working for 2 weeks and about to get back onto this project Wednesday. An idle mind is the devil's, or bass head's, workshop. I was just going to go with the RF Power 1000C and the Power 650 but a buddy decided to break this out of his closet and I just had to have it.







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I also decided to add another 12 so now I just have to figure out how to get all of this in there.

Now I have 12 channels and the Alpine H800 has 8. Can I come off of the sub channels of the H800 with a Y-adapter to run all 4 channels of the 1000 on the subs?


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Can you post up a wire diagram for that Isolator? Thinking of getting one myself but am always wishy washy when wiring up dual+ batteries.

Yes you can use a Y adapter.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Thanks for the info on the Y adapter.

Here is the info on the isolator. It is kind of pricey. I had mine built for 300 Amps and it hit me for a little over $600.
Dual Rectifier Isolator | Battery Isolators | Perfect Switch, LLC


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I just wanted to see how you have it wired. People keep telling me different things.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

I don't have it installed yet but I called them and it's pretty straight forward. I believe there are pics in the link I posted. I'll be running one primary battery and 2 batteries on the system wired in parallel. If you have any questions at all give them a call. I had very few and they spent almost an hour, I think his name is Scott, on the phone with me making everything perfectly clear.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Ok, got back in from offshore 2 weeks ago and after getting caught up around the house I got back on this project. I spent a couple days trying to figure out and lay out how to get two 12's, two 10's, with proper air space, two extra batteries, three rather LARGE Old School amps, the DSP and all of the associated hardware into this car and still have the removable targa top fit in the back. Way harder than I anticipated. It is a 2 seater sports car after all. I wanted to be able to get it all in there and still make a nice clean install without everything looking "boxy". I couldn't really come up with anything that I liked "geometrically" but I think I can make it work. Here it goes...


















































































































































































































































































































Making the two "small amps" flip out for easy access to gain controls threw me a pretty good curve. I didn't want to have to dismount them totally to adjust them.



























Getting some "Old School" carpet on the woodwork...








































































Flip up surround for the 1000. Chrome looks really crappy with fingerprints all over it...


















Hopefully get the amp rack carpeted today and then have to shut it down for another two weeks while I go earn some more money to finish this build...lol. When I get back I still have the "rack" that will be mounted behind the passengers seat to hold the Alpine H800 and possibly two Fosgate "Z-preamps", and then the whole front stage along with wiring the whole car.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Looking very good youngman!!!
Keep up the amazing work!


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Got a little more done today before having to clean up the garage and driveway which looks like a nuclear holocaust took place...































































































































I hope it's ok to use the word "giddy" without losing my mancard...but I'm really giddy to get this thing done.


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## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

reath1 said:


> Coffee and lot's of it...lol. And I really hope the sound deadening makes a substantial difference. Vette's are build as thin and light as possible so there is naturally quite a bit of road noise. I hope it pays off. It was two full days of work to strip it and deaden it because I tried to cover every exposed inch of it. I don't mind the work if there is a real benefit.


You will see a very substantial difference in your car... I did the same in my C5 and fellow Corvette owners would ride with me and ask why my car was so much quieter than theirs...

...then I'd crank up the tunes, and they would say it was much louder, too. 

Good build so far... looks like it's going to be really nice.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Wow...you make me so sick with those amps. I wish I had something to put mine in. Coming along very nicely.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Fast Hot Rod said:


> You will see a very substantial difference in your car... I did the same in my C5 and fellow Corvette owners would ride with me and ask why my car was so much quieter than theirs...
> 
> ...then I'd crank up the tunes, and they would say it was much louder, too.
> 
> Good build so far... looks like it's going to be really nice.


I hope so. I noticed a very substantial difference in the thickness of my wallet...lol. 

And it should be much quieter, much louder and MUCH SLOWER. That is 2 full sheets of 3/4" maple plywood, 2 batteries, the subs...etc. If I had to guess I would say I'm adding around 500 lbs. to the car.


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## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

reath1 said:


> I hope so. I noticed a very substantial difference in the thickness of my wallet...lol.
> 
> And it should be much quieter, much louder and MUCH SLOWER. That is 2 full sheets of 3/4" maple plywood, 2 batteries, the subs...etc. If I had to guess I would say I'm adding around 500 lbs. to the car.


True statement... When I first got my C5, it would run high 13's to low 14's in the quarter. A Hypertech programmer gained me a little bit, but the Vararam really opened things up and got me down into the low 13's. 

Then I added sound deadening, amp, speakers... and it was back up in the high 13's again.

Long tube stainless steel headers and bypass pipes on the stock exhaust, along with some tuning, dropped me back to the low 13's again. After I hit about 200k miles, I decided to sell it and get a C6... but I've always loved the C5 lines. It's just an amazing car to drive.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

bigbubba said:


> Wow...you make me so sick with those amps. I wish I had something to put mine in. Coming along very nicely.


Glad you can appreciate the Old School stuff bigbubba. A lot of people can't. Thanks!


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

After thinking this over a little, I will have 12 channels coming off of the 3 amps, 14 speakers and only 8 channels of processing. Please throw some suggestions out on how I should handle this.

Thanks in advance.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

List your drivers and locations


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

2001 Corvette
Arc Audio Black 12's and 10's in the back.

Legatia L's
6.5's rear fills.
6.5's lower doors.
3's lower doors.
Tweets door handles.
Tweets A-pillars


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

why are you running two twelve inch speakers and two ten inch speakers?

to what end purpose does this get you? you do realize that they have different enclosure requirements, different electro-mechanical properties, and thusly will have different frequency responses - most likely causing loads of tuning problems that could cause all kinds of acoustic nightmares?

i do not intend to be mean or anything - i am just trying to be frank and to-the-point that almost always, unless each speaker type is properly set with crossovers and what-not, that its generally not a good idea to use different size subwoofers at the same frequencies...

one more tip, and its kind of too late, but for constrained layer dampening (CLD) such as dynamat, only 50% coverage is required before the laws of diminishing returns take hold. basically the price-performance ratio kind of 'caps out' at 50% coverage before the cost-to-usefulness starts to plummit.

the fabrication is really looking great though. i like how you built the subwoofer enclosure into the floor using wood and fiberglassed in the curved tail light areas while you put the batteries in the corner spots.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

True, the 10's and 12's might be a tuning nightmare. I'll give it a shot.

Dampening was actually more to keep the road noise out. Vettes are made of roughly 80% fiberglass and very thin at that.

Thanks for the fab compliments.


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## Fast Hot Rod (Apr 19, 2007)

I would eliminate one pair of front tweeters, remove rear fill, move the 3" mid upwards on to A-pillar or high on doors, and combine with the tweeters. 3 way active front (six channels) plus sub = 7 channels. 

Otherwise: Front 6.5's plus tweeters in a two way, rears as two way, plus subs. (Eliminate 3" mid and extra tweeters.)

I've got a black set of kick panels/still plates if you wanted to modify them to put your 3" and tweeters into the kick panels. I also have old door panels (black) if you wanted to mod them and save your originals. Just a thought...


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Fast Hot Rod said:


> I would eliminate one pair of front tweeters, remove rear fill, move the 3" mid upwards on to A-pillar or high on doors, and combine with the tweeters. 3 way active front (six channels) plus sub = 7 channels.
> 
> Otherwise: Front 6.5's plus tweeters in a two way, rears as two way, plus subs. (Eliminate 3" mid and extra tweeters.)
> 
> I've got a black set of kick panels/still plates if you wanted to modify them to put your 3" and tweeters into the kick panels. I also have old door panels (black) if you wanted to mod them and save your originals. Just a thought...


Much appreciate the offer of the parts. I will think on it but probably won't go that far. I know that sounds crazy compared to what I've done to the car so far. 

I do have 2 Z preamps that I could use on the 1000 for the subs and process them that way. That would only leave me 2 amp channels and 2 processor channels short. I'm thinking that both sets of tweets will be close enough together to run them on the same channels and leave me even on amp channels and processing channels. Several ways I can do this. I could even buy another 4 or 6 channel processor or run the rear fills off of the HU which does have quite a bit of equalization. 

I'm offshore working for 2 weeks so I have a little time to kick it around before having to order eq. if I have to.

I did bite the bullet and order 2 more 12's and 2 more 10's in dual 4 ohm config to run all 4 channels of the 1000 at 2 ohm. With the dual 2's I had I was limited to running the amp at 4 ohms which wouldn't have gotten the real power out of it.

I will have 2 Black Series 12's and 2 Black Series 10's, dual 2's, never powered up, only out of the boxes for these photos, listed in the for sale section in about 2 weeks for anyone interested. I can save someone quite a few dollars on these over new, which they are new.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Man I love those amps. Remember being a teenager when those came out and drooling over them back then when all I had was a Pyramid shoved under the seat and a pair of bookshelf speakers in the hatch of the ol Stang. LOL


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

reath1 said:


> I will have 2 Black Series 12's and 2 Black Series 10's, dual 2's, never powered up, only out of the boxes for these photos, listed in the for sale section in about 2 weeks for anyone interested. I can save someone quite a few dollars on these over new, which they are new.


WOW, you have lot going on for that small and tight space. I like what the other guy mentioned. 3 way active front and a single pair of subs in the back. I believe for the space, those 8 speakers alone will bring the house down, especially since you use the hatch as well.

What subs are you going to go with since you are selling the Arc's, HAT Clarus? So that you have the same brand from front to back?

The only thing I would possible consider is a large format for the front doors or kicks, L8v2 in your situation.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Huck, I will stay with the Arc Black's. Just moving from the dual 2's to dual 4's. Yes, a lot going on in the small space but I have plenty of headroom. I'll be able to tune out whatever doesn't work. Everything is purchased and I don't want to have to try to add anything later.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Go for it, we watching!!!
Enjoy and have a great day youngman!!!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Along the lines of what req said, good luck with the dual sub setup, I hope it works out for you. I would also advise against 4 tweeters. You're going to create many more problems than you might be hoping to solve by doing that. One pair will provide more than enough output to cook your ears. 

Loking good so far with the fab work.


Also one more thing, and it's late in the game now but...The ensolite foam will offer almost no sound blocking/acoustic damping. Its use should be focused on decoupling panels/pieces that would vibrate against each other. The best product to use in your application for blocking sound would be MLV (mass loaded vinyl).


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

yehp. what captain said.

mass loaded vinyl (MLV) is going to be the noise blocking that you are desiring. constrained layer dampening (CLD) is to solve panel resonance (vibration kind of), and closed cell foam (CCF) is to stop things from rubbing against eachother. so loading the car with CLD after the 50% coverage will just add weight and money to the build. ideally, youd want 50% coverage with CLD (like dynamat), then possibly a thin layer of CCF, and then a layer of MLV, then your carpet on top. the idea is that the more phase changes that the sound energy has to transfer through (think gas->solid->gas) means more dispersed energy. it works better with higher frequencies, like much road noise.

also, i would advice against having 4 tweeters, and if you have the processing, go with a tweeter\midrange\midbass\subwoofer.

if you dont want to do it that way, then by all means do it however youd like. we are only trying to help with methods that are tried and true.

if i were you, i would look into why we are making these suggestions to you. things like comb filtering, sensitivy differences, speakers to cover each area of human hearing and so forth.

i dont really understand what your system layout is going to be like. are you going to run your subwoofers off one channel, or use the two 10's on a channel together, and the two 12's on a channel together? what about the rest of the system? you want to run a pair of tweeters on each tweeter channel, and then run two sets of a pair of midranges a two more channels?

*shrug*


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

req and several others. I sincerely appreciate the ideas, info and suggestions. But seriously, what good at this point would it serve to suggest that I have too much RAAMmat in the car. Really??? Do you think it can be peeled up or something? Same with the closed cell that is already down. Rip the back of the car back apart and tell my kids to go out and rip all of this up? I may have not taken the right approach on the dampening. I did contact Rick at RAAMaudio for suggestions. This is what he suggested and he has personally deadened many Vettes. Vettes are extremely thin, the tunnel area can reach well over 130 degrees along with the floor boards and a few other areas. What I put down is not just for sound inside the car. It was for sound inside, sound outside and heat issues. But again, at this point it's WAY late to make suggestions on this issue. 50% this and diminishing returns that means nothing if you have no experience with this in a Corvette. There are places in the car where I honestly think I could shove my finger through to the outside through areas with fiberglass and areas with aluminum. It is a different animal from anything you have ever experienced if you have not experienced one.

As far as me asking for ideas on which way to run the components I have, those are much appreciated. The equipment was already purchased. The sub boxes are built. The rear fills are in and as you can see, cannot come out or go back in unless the entire rear of the car is taken back apart. Which...is why I added them when I did. It took 10 minutes to install them now. It would take 2 days to install them later. They are there. They will either tune or they will be tuned out. It really is that simple. I purchased actually 3 sets of tweeters. I am going to try a set in the door handles. I had already ordered a custom set of A-pillars with L1V2's mounted in them. I already have them. They will either tune, or they will be tuned out. If I choose I CAN uninstall anything in the front fairly easily and sell for used if I cannot make them work. But...$500 worth of speakers sitting there not hooked will not ruin my retirement plans. I just don't want to continually take this car apart to add things or remove them either. Better for me to just put everything in the car that might work and tune out or disconnect what doesn't. Again, it's that simple.

All suggestions still very welcome but if all you have is attitude...you can keep that. As you can see, I have one of my own.

Thanks All


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## aoessand (Jan 11, 2011)

I wish i had this kind of money for speakers rofl thats allot of speakers in a little car will be tuned in to see how you like it once its all set up gl.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

sorry dude, nobody has given any attitude, just help for the future.

ive never worked on a corvette until recently.

i apologize if you have seen our posts as an attack on you. we are not suggesting you change anything - only offering advice from past expierence.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...5-c6-corvette-mtx-fostex-vifa-dayton-arc.html

good luck on your build.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

I don't think anyone above was giving you attitude, though I agree the after-the-fact comments on deadening may not be particularly useful in this current build thread.

The main issue I see is that many of these same recommendations were made in your system design thread which you seem to have ignored, and are now asking the same questions again (i.e. how to process 14 speakers with 8 channels, or getting comments about running different size subs). There's nothing at all wrong with doing your build however you want to do it. But when you ask for advice from audiophiles, don't be annoyed when people give you advice based on well vetted, established principles just because the advice doesn't include every piece of gear you have.

With that out of the way, here are my thoughts..

You already have everything in the process of being installed - cool. Like you said it's easier to do it now than later. Get all the wires ran for everything so you have the ability to run everything. But when you first fire up the system, start with just the 3 way front and subs. Tune it and listen for a while. If after getting it all set up correctly you still feel something is missing, THEN start messing with the rear fill or second tweeter pair. But at least start out with what makes the most sense.

Can your system be made to sound 'good' using all the gear you have? Yeah, probably. Can it be made to sound 'great' by keeping it a little simpler and using the processing you have to the best of its ability? Yeah. After all the time, money, and effort you spent on the build, I'd think you'd want 'great.' Yes, you can connect everything at the same time and it will sound like music and get loud and you'll probably enjoy it. But just understand that you WILL be compromising the ultimate sound quality potential of the system by doing so, and there is no way around that without adding additional processing. If that's not a concern to you, then I'd recommend running the sub channels from the head unit and using the H800 for rear fill since it's one of the few DSPs capable of actually processing rear fill, especially since the rear fill in the Corvette is so close to your head. I would understand the use of a second pair of tweeters more if the 'primary' pair were in the kicks or something and you were using a second set to help raise stage height, but since you're talking about upper door vs pillar, either by itself will be fine and give you plenty of output. Adding a second set off the same channels will most likely cause image smearing. Again, if that doesn't bother you, go for it!

Nice job on the fab work so far, and cool car.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

strakele said:


> I don't think anyone above was giving you attitude, though I agree the after-the-fact comments on deadening may not be particularly useful in this current build thread.
> 
> The main issue I see is that many of these same recommendations were made in your system design thread which you seem to have ignored, and are now asking the same questions again (i.e. how to process 14 speakers with 8 channels, or getting comments about running different size subs). There's nothing at all wrong with doing your build however you want to do it. But when you ask for advice from audiophiles, don't be annoyed when people give you advice based on well vetted, established principles just because the advice doesn't include every piece of gear you have.
> 
> ...


Thanks strakele, this is good stuff. I know I put the cart in front of the horse as far as purchasing equipment, but it's where I'm at. I do appreciate any and all suggestions just the same. If the minimal number of speakers does the job that's fine with me. If it takes more to get it right or where I want it, they will already be there. I am definitely no audiophile nor even close but I have a good idea what I would like to have in end. The way I work and the very tight constraints of the car this is going in it was just more feasible to put everything in upfront then to try to get it in a piece at a time. 
And it was also easier to get the $9K bill past the ole lady once than to string it out trying to hide a grand here and a grand there...lol.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

I understand your reasoning - it's a pain taking everything apart to make a change. I'd just recommend when actually setting everything up, starting out with the 3-way front plus sub. It's likely all you will need. If not, you still have the other stuff to try ready to go.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

strakele said:


> I understand your reasoning - it's a pain taking everything apart to make a change. I'd just recommend when actually setting everything up, starting out with the 3-way front plus sub. It's likely all you will need. If not, you still have the other stuff to try ready to go.


Exactly. I was looking for suggestions on how to process the rest if I see the need to go that way. That is still open but I'll figure it out as I go.

Thanks again


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

BTW- my comments regarding the deadening were for all those reading. I wouldn't suggest taking OUT the ensolite foam on the floor. I was informing that if you expected it to block and absorb sound, that you will end up disappointed in how it would perform in that regard. I also mentioned the MLV because it can be layed over what you already have in there to perform the role of additional sound blocking from that thin corvette sheet metal. Which brings me to my next point-
No offense meant, but when you try to make it sound like the Corvette's construction is some mystical uniform we haven't seen before, I'm not buying it. Plenty of sports cars have minimalist lightweight build approaches so please don't assume our advice is irrelevant or doesn't apply in your specific situation. I've had complete interiors out and have worked on plenty of cars, sports cars included. CLD is not designed to be a structural enhancer. It adds some mass and converts vibration to heat. The general rule of thumb that req was referring to is based in actual science. You CAN layer as much of that stuff on as you want but again your returns diminish substantially and you add extra weight to a high performance vehicle. I wouldn't take OUT what you put in and I don't think Andy was suggesting that either. Again, there are others who follow along and read these threads and they may benefit from this info as well which is why it's offered.

I would take Strakele's very sound advice to heart and start with the 3-way plus sub minimal approach and add from there if needed. Good luck !


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

That makes more sense captain. I wasn't looking at it from the perspective of others learning from my mistakes but I'm with you on that. 

However, in one regard, I really don't think you realize how thin Corvettes are in a lot of places in the body. It actually scares me a little knowing what I know after gutting it.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

OK, had a little time to get some more work done on this build. A small change of plans also. Having 12 channels of power and only 8 channels of processing, the H800, just didn't make sense. I figured, why pinch pennies at this stage of the game. So...the H800 will be dedicated to the front stage and I ordered a RF 3sixty.3 for the 4 low sub channels of the Power 1000. I will also get to see which unit and software I like better. Although not much I can do. I had my bezel custom modified to mount the rux controller cleanly into it so I really needed a second processor that either stood alone or had a very small controller. Simply running out of room to mount things cleanly. Hence why I went with the Fosgate unit.

A few pics. The back of the car is just about done so I turned my attention to the front. I have been dreading this because this is where things will start to get busy and my wire management skills suck...lol.



Started on the doors. RAAMmatted every inch of the inside of the outer doorskins. Ensolited only behind the mid-bass. Ensolited the interior of the door. Installed the drivers in some plates I got from RAAMAudio and covered the large holes I got from them also. Nice pieces. The L6V2's, L3SE's and a set of L1V2's going in. The L1v2's fit nicely into the door release pockets.













































































































Doors Done!

3'4" Oak plywood mounted behind the passengers seat to mount the two DSP's on. ***Most of you know, but for those that don't DO NOT SCREW MOUNT ANYTHING IN THIS LOCATION! ANYTHING MOUNTED HERE MUST BE SURFACED ATTACHED ONLY! THE BODY OF THE CAR IS EXTREMELY THIN BEHIND BOTH SEATS AND YOUR GAS TANKS ARE DIRECTLY BEHIND THE SHEET METAL HERE AS WELL AS ACROSS THE TOP CONNECTING THE TWO TANKS. DOUBLE SIDE TAPE OR SILICONE MOUNT OR BOTH HERE IF YOU HAVE TO***



















Power distribution block made up. 1/0 feed, 1/0 to Power 1000 and 4/0 to Power 650 and Power 300.



















Anderson Power Pole connectors that I am using on all power and ground wires for the amps. Pretty pricey but I'm told they are about the best on the market for the task. I wanted the whole system "Plug and Play". Cutting wires when something needs to be removed and re-installed used to bug the crap out of me 30 years ago. All speaker leads coming off of my amps have "Traxxas" high current deans connectors. The ONLY wires that would need to be cut are the power turn on wires and I am thinking of using plug spade connectors there also.










H800 mounted.





































Fun with speaker pigtails, deans connectors and heat shrink...lol.










Hopefully I will get this thing together in the next 5 days. I'm actually starting to get burnt out on it at this point. I just hope the rewards are worth the sacrifice.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I see nothing wrong with using two different processors. The RF software is almost great, IMO. What's missing for me is a way to see all adjustments on a single graph so I can visualize the crossover points together. This is lacking in a lot of processors. What's also missing is a window I can do time alignment work in for all channels, not having to select a driver, then adjust, select, adjust, select, adjust. I also wish RF or any other brand would allow a master/slave relationship with processors so that only one controller would be needed. I think maybe Mosconi does that with theirs, but I'm not sure... haven't looked into their stuff because I can't get it without not eating.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

sirbOOm said:


> I see nothing wrong with using two different processors. The RF software is almost great, IMO. What's missing for me is a way to see all adjustments on a single graph so I can visualize the crossover points together. This is lacking in a lot of processors. What's also missing is a window I can do time alignment work in for all channels, not having to select a driver, then adjust, select, adjust, select, adjust. I also wish RF or any other brand would allow a master/slave relationship with processors so that only one controller would be needed. I think maybe Mosconi does that with theirs, but I'm not sure... haven't looked into their stuff because I can't get it without not eating.


I hear you on that. I was thinking...what would be better for the manufacturers than selling a DSP? Selling TWO DSP's. What better way to do that than to make one controller take care of two or more. Probably be very simple fix on their part to make it possible. I would have gone with another H800 in a heart beat if a single rux would control both. Maybe some people have the real estate to mount two rux's but I don't.

As far as the software for both...I can't comment yet. I did download both and played with them for about a half hour. Both look very intimidating to me. I think tuning make take me a very long time.


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

take a look at Welcome to the world of miniDSP | MiniDSP


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