# Looking for mono amp recommendations



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

Hey all. Another thread of mine changed directions and I was asked to bring it here for more visibility.

I plan on powering two Dayton Ultimax 2 Ohm DVC 500w 10" subs in my 2018 Toyota Corolla. The amp I was looking at turned out to be a bad choice. I am hoping someone can give me some recommendations. I am willing to spend a little extra on a bit of extra power so I can set the gain a bit lower so the amp doesnt need to work as hard.

Side note, is my car going to have issues powering 1000w? How do I know?


----------



## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

Quartersawn said:


> Is my car going to have issues powering 1000w? How do I know?


It depends on what the car's alternator capacity is, what other electrical draws you have, the efficiency of the amp, and how much you are asking of it. Class D amps are more efficient and are therefore often used for subs. 

You can look up the alternator specs for your car. Also, look at the fusing or recommended amperage for the amp you are considering. That will be the maximum but the average draw will be much less. What other amps do you have?


----------



## tRidiot (Jun 29, 2006)

Quartersawn said:


> Hey all. Another thread of mine changed directions and I was asked to bring it here for more visibility.
> 
> I plan on powering two Dayton Ultimax 2 Ohm DVC 500w 10" subs in my 2018 Toyota Corolla. The amp I was looking at turned out to be a bad choice. I am hoping someone can give me some recommendations. I am willing to spend a little extra on a bit of extra power so I can set the gain a bit lower so the amp doesnt need to work as hard.
> 
> Side note, is my car going to have issues powering 1000w? How do I know?


I've run well over 1000W for many years off stock alternators. I wouldn't be overly worried about it.

What's your budget? Lots of great inexpensive amps out there in the 1kw range these days.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

OldNewbie said:


> It depends on what the car's alternator capacity is, what other electrical draws you have, the efficiency of the amp, and how much you are asking of it. Class D amps are more efficient and are therefore often used for subs.
> 
> 
> 
> You can look up the alternator specs for your car. Also, look at the fusing or recommended amperage for the amp you are considering. That will be the maximum but the average draw will be much less. What other amps do you have?


I currently do not habe any upgrades other than sound deadening and an HU. Kenwood DDX9705s. The plan is to run another amp for the front stage if I feel it is necessary after the sub. My factory speakers are not horrible now that they have a little more power. If I can take all the bass out of the front stage they may actually perform relatively weel for my needs..... Until I wanna tinker some more lol

Budget for the amp, probably around 3-400. Not even sure if that is doable but it would be nice. The subs are 300, wiring will be about 100, box will cost me about 100 so I'd be sitting at about 8-900 to add the subs... Pretty steep for a commuter car lol

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

I have also toyed with the idea of just doing one of the subs at 500w and adding another if I felt the need later.... Probably the smart thing to do really....

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## tRidiot (Jun 29, 2006)

Quartersawn said:


> Budget for the amp, probably around 3-400. Not even sure if that is doable but it would be nice. The subs are 300, wiring will be about 100, box will cost me about 100 so I'd be sitting at about 8-900 to add the subs... Pretty steep for a commuter car lol
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk



Dude, you can probably get 100x4 AND 2000x1 these days for around that $400 budget or so. It's incredible the price of nice solid budget amps these days.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

tRidiot said:


> Dude, you can probably get 100x4 AND 2000x1 these days for around that $400 budget or so. It's incredible the price of nice solid budget amps these days.


Any specific brands you would recommend? Again I am toying with the idea of only doing one sub for now so some 500w range amps are welcone too.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

SoundQubed
Wolfram Audio
Sound Solutions Audio
Pioneer D series
Zapco
Euphoria 
DLS
Rockford Fosgate
JBL/Infinity 

Just brain storming and I’m sure a missed a bunch but these are solid brands.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...-my-own-amplifier-sound-quality-shootout.html

I’ve had amplification capable of 1500 watts RMS on my stock alternator without issue but they are all Class D amplifiers too.


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

If i had a pair of D2 10's that were rated at 500w rms each i would look for an amp that would put out 1200-1500 watts at 2ohms.

Oh wait, i have one already...the Zapco Z-2KD II 

There...i casted my vote.


----------



## bigblank69 (Jul 24, 2016)

miniSQ said:


> If i had a pair of D2 10's that were rated at 500w rms each i would look for an amp that would put out 1200-1500 watts at 2ohms.
> 
> Oh wait, i have one already...the Zapco Z-2KD II
> 
> There...i casted my vote.


I just bought one for my tuck... paid $449 brand new


----------



## txkawboi (Jul 17, 2015)

I have 2 UM10s in a 2014 Mini Cooper Countryman being powered by an Orion XTR 1500.1Dz. Trust that it's much more than enough to power them with authority. https://www.amazon.com/XTR1500-1Dz-...t=&hvlocphy=9032799&hvtargid=pla-568337985824


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

I have taken a look at all of these recommendations, at least a little. Thank you all.

What is the forum concensus on Skar audio? I have seen some rather imlressive builds using their subs but now much on their amps.

Also, most amps seem to rate their performance at 14.4v. My vehicle tends to operate at 13.6. Does this mean I should get an amp that is a bit over my subs RMS so make sure I am meeting their potential? Is that why it is recommended to go 20% or so over the RMS?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## XSVTOYZ (Jan 26, 2019)

I had a single skar vd-10 500w rms on a single jbl gtx 500 
I currently have 2 of each now I got them off amazon for $75 each
I really like them except no sub sonic


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Quartersawn said:


> I have taken a look at all of these recommendations, at least a little. Thank you all.
> 
> What is the forum concensus on Skar audio? I have seen some rather imlressive builds using their subs but now much on their amps.
> 
> ...


I vote Wolfram Audio W series, don't know anything about Skar, though I feel they may be sub par from what I've read in forums.
For the power rating, I'd just look at the 12 volt rating, or do the math. 13.6/14.4=0.94. So you'll be getting 94% of the rated power.
How much power do you need? If you're not competing, or playing test tones at max volume for an extended period of time, double or triple the rms rating of the sub, at least 150% of the rating. Of course, you need to use common sense with the gain and/or volume.
Just get a Wolfram Audio W3000.1 for $450 with the discount code GEM and you'll have way more power than you need now and the flexibilty to add 5 more identical subs


----------



## Gump_Runner (Aug 2, 2014)

Wolfram c2400.1
https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/c-series-amplifiers/products/c-2400-1


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Gump_Runner said:


> Wolfram c2400.1
> 
> https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/c-series-amplifiers/products/c-2400-1


I'd stick with the W series (made in Korea), I think the C series are made in China.


----------



## Gump_Runner (Aug 2, 2014)

ckirocz28 said:


> I'd stick with the W series (made in Korea), I think the C series are made in China.


Just because it's made in Korea doesn't make it better. I own (2) 2400's and they have been fantastic amps.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Gump_Runner said:


> Just because it's made in Korea doesn't make it better. I own (2) 2400's and they have been fantastic amps.


I'm just going on my experiences and others experiences. There seem to be higher failure rates in Chinese made amps. And, if you do a tiny bit of research, South Korean made and Brazilian made amps seem to provide the best bang for the buck and good reliability. I just lived through 2 Chinese amp failures, they both failed on the input side, the output side was perfectly fine.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

The South Korean's take great pride in producing some of the best tech in the world, just like Japan. The Chinese just want our money and data.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Gump_Runner said:


> Just because it's made in Korea doesn't make it better. I own (2) 2400's and they have been fantastic amps.


But, your experience does give those models some credibility. Real world experience is always better than internet research.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

ckirocz28 said:


> I'm just going on my experiences and others experiences. There seem to be higher failure rates in Chinese made amps. And, if you do a tiny bit of research, South Korean made and Brazilian made amps seem to provide the best bang for the buck and good reliability. I just lived through 2 Chinese amp failures, they both failed on the input side, the output side was perfectly fine.


All JL Audio amps are made in China. Just sayin'...


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Pb82 Ronin said:


> All JL Audio amps are made in China. Just sayin'...


Really?


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Pb82 Ronin said:


> All JL Audio amps are made in China. Just sayin'...


I doubt they would admit that.


----------



## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

iPhone is made in China too and people pay $1000 for those things.


----------



## Patriot83 (May 10, 2017)

JCsAudio said:


> iPhone is made in China too and people pay $1000 for those things.


Yep and it was a Samsung phone that was banned from airplanes for catching on fire. Most of my coworkers have Samsung phones. A lot of them have all kinds of ridiculous phone problems. Zapco, JL and lots of other decent amps are made in China sadly like everything else.


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Patriot83 said:


> Yep and it was a Samsung phone that was banned from airplanes for catching on fire. Most of my coworkers have Samsung phones. A lot of them have all kinds of ridiculous phone problems. Zapco, JL and lots of other decent amps are made in China sadly like everything else.


Those were Chinese batteries


----------



## Patriot83 (May 10, 2017)

ckirocz28 said:


> Those were Chinese batteries


Are they haha? I'd be surprised. Koreans are deathly loyal to korean brand only. I lived there for 2 years. It's very rare to even see a japanese car in korea. I know nothing about samsung phones. I just know saw the constant madness from my co-workers with their samsung phones.

Op, I would advise to take JCsAudio(budget) or MiniSq's(mid-tier) recommendations. The Orion XTR's put out crazy power but consume LOTS of amps


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Patriot83 said:


> Are they haha? I'd be surprised. Koreans are deathly loyal to korean brand only. I lived there for 2 years. It's very rare to even see a japanese car in korea. I know nothing about samsung phones. I just know saw the constant madness from my co-workers with their samsung phones.


I was joking about the batteries. As for Samsung phones being maddening, chalk it up to user error


----------



## Omicron (Jul 15, 2018)

Quartersawn said:


> Any specific brands you would recommend? Again I am toying with the idea of only doing one sub for now so some 500w range amps are welcone too.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


Take a look at the ArcAudio XDi 1100.1. I have one of those powering two 10’s at 1ohm and it’ll thump. Stock alternator being used as well.


----------



## Patriot83 (May 10, 2017)

ckirocz28 said:


> I was joking about the batteries. As for Samsung phones being maddening, chalk it up to user error


I'm sure my iphone batt is chinese but it sure beats the **** out of those samsung batteries. That being said, I'd much rather live in korea. And I'd have no problem with a chinese amp from a reputable company. If I was spending big bucks then I'd go US/Japan/European


----------



## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

ckirocz28 said:


> Really?


Yessir...true statement


----------



## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

For one sub, Alpine PDR-m65 are excellent. I have some for sale bnib and theyre cheap now on ebay. 

700-850 at 2 ohms according to birthsheets

Very small but well built, super efficient and great control over a sub


https://www.pasmag.com/technology/test-reports/alpine-pdr-m65-amplifier-review

for around $150, I cant think of any better options at the price.

If interested, this is my ad and I accept best offers

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALPINE...PLIFIER-700-800-WATTS-RMS-PDX-M6/352685949281


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> Also, most amps seem to rate their performance at 14.4v. My vehicle tends to operate at 13.6. Does this mean I should get an amp that is a bit over my subs RMS so make sure I am meeting their potential? Is that why it is recommended to go 20% or so over the RMS?


It depends on how tightly regulated the amp is. An unregulated amp will make more power w/ higher input voltage, but conversely will make less power w/ lower input voltage. A tightly regulated amp will make about the same amount of power over a wide range of input voltages.

FWIW, I've never seen a car electrical system that produced a consistent 14.4V. Sounds like some of the amps u've been looking at are trying to inflate their output. The 13.6V that your car produces is pretty standard IME.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

I am liking this SoundQubed S1. 1250 amp. It will looks like it will power either one or two of these subs perfectly depending on how I wire them and the pricepoint is sweet. Has subsonic, LPF and even a remote. Unless it is a hunk of crap for whatever reason it looks like a good fit. Can any one attest? I know the brand was in the list of reputable amps earlier in the thread.

https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-1250/

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> I am liking this SoundQubed S1. 1250 amp. It will looks like it will power either one or two of these subs perfectly depending on how I wire them


That's not really a good match. U can run 2 of these subs at 0.5ohm, 2ohm, or 8ohm. The amp isn't stable at .5ohm and would only put 860WRMS into 2ohm. That's 430WRMS per sub, so that's underpowering them a bit. 

And that's at 14.4V, so it would probably be more like 400WRMS per sub in your car at 13.6V. U want more like 600WRMS per sub for optimal performance.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

Ah. I was mistaken I thoight I could wire 2 2ohm DVC to 1 ohm. That amp could still be a good fit if I decide to do only 1 2 ohm DVC because I can wire it to 4 ohm and be just over 500w... If I am correct.


https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-2250/

That guy would power both then. 1300 at 14.4v 2ohms comes out to about 1200 at 13.6.


Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> Ah. I was mistaken I thoight I could wire 2 2ohm DVC to 1 ohm. That amp could still be a good fit if I decide to do only 1 2 ohm DVC because I can wire it to 4 ohm and be just over 500w... If I am correct.
> 
> 
> https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-2250/
> ...


Wiring it to 4ohm would give a single sub a little less than 500WRMS at 13.6V.

The bigger amp would provide the target of about 600WRMS per sub, so it's not a bad choice. The only problem w/ that or w/ running the smaller amp into a single sub is that u'r paying for an amp that's capable of putting out more more than u'r using. What u really want is an amp that puts out its best power into 2ohms.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

syc0path said:


> Wiring it to 4ohm would give a single sub a little less than 500WRMS at 13.6V.
> 
> 
> 
> The bigger amp would provide the target of about 600WRMS per sub, so it's not a bad choice. The only problem w/ that or w/ running the smaller amp into a single sub is that u'r paying for an amp that's capable of putting out more more than u'r using. What u really want is an amp that puts out its best power into 2ohms.


Most of the amps I see are 1 ohm stable amps. Can you show me an example of a 2 ohm amp that hits around 1200 at 13.6v?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> Most of the amps I see are 1 ohm stable amps. Can you show me an example of a 2 ohm amp that hits around 1200 at 13.6v?


There aren't many... I found the Planet Audio PL2000.1M and the Precision Power TRAX1.2000D. So using an amp that's 1ohm stable and running it at 2ohm would definitely give u more choices in terms of what to buy.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

syc0path said:


> There aren't many... I found the Planet Audio PL2000.1M and the Precision Power TRAX1.2000D. So using an amp that's 1ohm stable and running it at 2ohm would definitely give u more choices in terms of what to buy.


Now a 1 ohm stable amp at 2000w that is running 2ohm at 1000w is still taxing mt electrical system like a 2000w amp correct?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> Now a 1 ohm stable amp at 2000w that is running 2ohm at 1000w is still taxing mt electrical system like a 2000w amp correct?


No, the amp is only drawing enough amperage to produce its rated power into 2ohms.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

syc0path said:


> No, the amp is only drawing enough amperage to produce its rated power into 2ohms.


Cool. You have been a big help. I think I have enough info to make an informed decision. Thanks for sticking with me.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

Looks like I am going to go with the SoundQubed S1-850 to power a single dayton ultimax 2ohm dvc 10". I was going for two 10"s because I thought it was cool but this is a daily driver. It just need a bit of thump. One should be plenty. Plus I want to add an amp up front a some point and don't wanna tax my electrical system.

I had a tough time finding a ~600w 1ohm stable amp. The soundQubed 850 is 900 at 1ohm. From what I understand, as long as I set the gain correctly I should not hurt the sub. 

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Quartersawn said:


> Looks like I am going to go with the SoundQubed S1-850 to power a single dayton ultimax 2ohm dvc 10". I was going for two 10"s because I thought it was cool but this is a daily driver. It just need a bit of thump. One should be plenty. Plus I want to add an amp up front a some point and don't wanna tax my electrical system.
> 
> I had a tough time finding a ~600w 1ohm stable amp. The soundQubed 850 is 900 at 1ohm. From what I understand, as long as I set the gain correctly I should not hurt the sub.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


You should be fine with that power.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

This is one of the most helpful, informed, and patient forums I have been to. Everyone has been welcoming and understanding of my lack of knowledge. You are all fantastic.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Quartersawn said:


> This is one of the most helpful, informed, and patient forums I have been to. Everyone has been welcoming and understanding of my lack of knowledge. You are all fantastic.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


Thanks, but you clearly haven't run across some of the pissier threads/people here. There's only a couple of those people around here though. This is, overall, a pretty damn good forum.


----------



## txkawboi (Jul 17, 2015)

Quartersawn said:


> Looks like I am going to go with the SoundQubed S1-850 to power a single dayton ultimax 2ohm dvc 10". I was going for two 10"s because I thought it was cool but this is a daily driver. It just need a bit of thump. One should be plenty. Plus I want to add an amp up front a some point and don't wanna tax my electrical system.
> 
> I had a tough time finding a ~600w 1ohm stable amp. The soundQubed 850 is 900 at 1ohm. From what I understand, as long as I set the gain correctly I should not hurt the sub.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


My man, I speak from experience when I say you'll be PLENTY SURPRISED at just how much output Dayton Audio UM subwoofers produce. I initially had mine in my '03 Mini using a Sosche enclosure (cheap) that I got from Wally World. It was the 12" enclosure (1.2 cuft) type & I added a 3/4 MDF baffle over the 12" cutout. I reinforced & sealed the enclosure with Liquid Nails while constructing it. I added a 2" diameter round port & tuned it @ 25Hz. A JL HD 1200/1 powered it & EVERYONE thought I had 2 12s. The bass crispy & full. It does get very loud ported. In a sealed enclosure, it's even more accurate & rich but not quite as loud. The 2 sealed in my F350 are amazing. You should be right at home from 600 - 1000 watts. Just ensure you tune the amp it well & enjoy!


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

I would look at 2kW amps... are you looking for second hand D class amp or strictly new one?

a few suggestions:
JL 1/1000 (slash series 1 kw @4/2/1 ohm)
JBL/CROWN BPX1000.2 or BPX2000.2
Alphard
DD
GZ
.....


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

txkawboi said:


> My man, I speak from experience when I say you'll be PLENTY SURPRISED at just how much output Dayton Audio UM subwoofers produce. I initially had mine in my '03 Mini using a Sosche enclosure (cheap) that I got from Wally World. It was the 12" enclosure (1.2 cuft) type & I added a 3/4 MDF baffle over the 12" cutout. I reinforced & sealed the enclosure with Liquid Nails while constructing it. I added a 2" diameter round port & tuned it @ 25Hz. A JL HD 1200/1 powered it & EVERYONE thought I had 2 12s. The bass crispy & full. It does get very loud ported. In a sealed enclosure, it's even more accurate & rich but not quite as loud. The 2 sealed in my F350 are amazing. You should be right at home from 600 - 1000 watts. Just ensure you tune the amp it well & enjoy!


Thanks for the info! I am doing a sealed 10". My goal is accuracy not volume. What CuFt are your sealed UMs in? I had some help and it looks like jist over 1 CuFt is optimal. About 1.1. Found a 1.2 prefab online for $60. 1" face and 3/4" sides. Better than I can build for the price.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

LBaudio said:


> I would look at 2kW amps... are you looking for second hand D class amp or strictly new one?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I changed directions a bit from the first post. Doing a single 500w 10" at 1 ohm. Thank you for the reply though.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Quartersawn said:


> Most of the amps I see are 1 ohm stable amps. Can you show me an example of a 2 ohm amp that hits around 1200 at 13.6v?
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


my zapco 2kd is rated at 1200 watts @2ohm.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

Old GZ 1,3000 el brutalo - 2 ohm and 1 ohm versions
also JBL/CROWN BPX are stable to 2 ohm BRIDGED, and below that in Parallel mode


----------



## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Rockford p400/1 will do 500-600 at 1 ohm and around 150 or so on ebay.

I have a p400/2 that does just under 600 bridged to 4 ohm load.

Of course a JL audio 500/1 always a good choice.

Again, consider the alpine PDR-m65. It will do around 500 at 4 ohms. No need to wire to 1 ohm unless youre matching to what you have. If I have a choice, I preferr running 4 ohms.

I also have a Kenwood KAC-X1R with the remote peq. [email protected] 4 ohms [email protected] 2

Unless you got the soundquebed, then youll be fine with that too. Amps are easy.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

tyroneshoes said:


> Rockford p400/1 will do 500-600 at 1 ohm and around 150 or so on ebay.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What is the benefit of running 4 ohms in your opinion?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Quartersawn said:


> What is the benefit of running 4 ohms in your opinion?
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


less distortion on the amp...especially on lower cost amps, and easier on the cars electrical system.


----------



## Quartersawn (Jun 8, 2019)

miniSQ said:


> less distortion on the amp...especially on lower cost amps, and easier on the cars electrical system.


Interesting. I thought it was the other way around. I thought with less resistance, the amp would draw less power.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Quartersawn said:


> Interesting. I thought it was the other way around. I thought with less resistance, the amp would draw less power.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


huh?


----------



## Mahapederdon (Aug 19, 2016)

Quartersawn said:


> miniSQ said:
> 
> 
> > less distortion on the amp...especially on lower cost amps, and easier on the cars electrical system.
> ...


Higher voltage less current. The higher the impedance the higher the voltage needs to be to get the same power. It's pulling the same voltage from the battery no matter what. I'm pretty sure if both amps were designed really well they'd pull about the same current from the battery if they were outputting the same rms wattage. Maybe higher voltage amps may be more effecient.


----------



## tRidiot (Jun 29, 2006)

Takes current to make power. That's it. Some differences in efficiency, yes, but bottom line, more power, more current draw.

Some amps are optimized for low impedance, some aren't. Generally, given the same class and build quality, you're going to draw large current to make large power. There's no magic formula.

If you have an amp that makes 500W at 4 ohms, 1000W at 2 ohms and 2000W at 1 ohm, the current draw is going to go up with each step down in impedance, because the power output is going up. Some amps may be slightly less or more efficient at different impedances, but in general you gotta increase current draw appropriately to increase power.


----------



## syc0path (Jan 23, 2013)

Quartersawn said:


> Interesting. I thought it was the other way around. I thought with less resistance, the amp would draw less power.


Check out Basic Car Audio Electronics -- go to Topics 3-12 from the right-hand menu. This will provide an easy-to-understand explanation of basic electrical flow, and that in turn will help u understand a lot more about car audio systems.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Quartersawn said:


> Interesting. I thought it was the other way around. I thought with less resistance, the amp would draw less power.
> 
> Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk


A simple example: If you were to connect a very short and fat copper wire across the positive and negative terminals of a battery, that copper wire would present a zero-ohm load to the battery, and would result in a very high current would flow through that wire. On the other hand, if you were to connect a very long and thin copper wire instead, far less current would flow through this long, thin wire due to its far higher resistance. Of course, both of the above conditions are a "short circuit," in which all of their respective current flow is converted to heat (and, generally speaking, badly melted wires). 

I echo syc0path's BCAE recommendation.


----------



## Pb82 Ronin (Jun 6, 2018)

Grinder said:


> A simple example: If you were to *connect a very short and fat copper wire across the positive and negative terminals of a battery,* that copper wire would present a zero-ohm load to the battery, and would result in a very high current would flow through that wire. On the other hand, if you were to connect *a very long and thin copper wire* instead, far less current would flow through this long, thin wire due to its far higher resistance. Of course, both of the above conditions are a "short circuit," in which all of their respective current flow is converted to heat (and, generally speaking, badly melted wires).
> 
> I echo syc0path's BCAE recommendation.


When/if you do this, please record it and post it on YouTube...you know, for the scientific value.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Pb82 Ronin said:


> When/if you do this, please record it and post it on YouTube...you know, for the scientific value.


....


----------

