# My 2008 F150 SuperCrew install



## ARCuhTEK

Day 2

I did not get to start my install thread because last night was a late night. So my first post begins on Day 2. I would like to format my thread/log by giving daily work hours totals, grand total hours spent, tasks completed and commentary along the way, specifically with surprises (good or bad) encountered. So here goes:

Day 1 hours: 3
Day 2 hours: 3
Total build hours: 6

Sadly, I do not have any photographs yet. But so far all I have done is essentially remove the interior. 

Tasks completed today:
1. Remove rear seat back rest.
2. Remove rear seat cushions (see story below)
3. Remove rear wall factory carpeted wall.
4. Remove center seat, seatbelt tower (I will not be re-installing this).
5. Remove tire changing tool set.
6. Remove OEM subwoofer enclosure.
7. Remove both C-Pillars.
8. Made chip board template of area/geometry of what my amp mounting board will look like. This may have to be altered, once it is installed, if I want it perfect.

Surprises along the way today:

1. Removing the rear backrest. Accomplishing this task was so difficult, yet so easy (when I figured out how to do it). So much that I have written my own article on it, which can be found here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/53037-f150-rear-seat-removal-2004-2008-my-way.html

2. I was surprised at how many pieces, parts, plus, screws, wires, etc. had to be removed just to get clean and clear access to the rear wall. So in 6 hours, I managed to get a chipboard template, so I can now go cut my MDF board. LOL.

3. There was one bolt at the far rear passenger side corner, that held the rear seat frame down. This thing was a BEAR. IN the end, we realized that of the four bolts/nuts that hold this frame down, only this one was different. All were nuts, this one was a bolt. It has a nut which can be accessed UNDER the truck chassis. This particular bolt was the last one to be removed. The first three were a breeze. We did not realize it was different at the time, so we just kept turning it..and turning it. We looked under the chassis, but did not see the nut (at first). We finally assumed we were damaging it. So we took out the rear seat cushions....the hard way. After the seats were out, but the metal frame remained...I finally realized the nut at the end of the fourth bolt was indeed accessible. So we finally got it out.

Definitely more work than what is necessary....but we live and learn.

Next task:
I am going to make a mock up of the amp board using 3/4" rigid insulation (blue board). This is not typically necessary, but the F150 rear backrest is VERY close to the rear wall. My intent is to mock up EVERYTHING in rudimentary form, in this insulation. Including the amps, etc. Then mount it on the wall and put the seats back (not bolted in) and sit down on the backrest. Since I have three amps, fuse blocks, distribution blocks, sound processor, etc to mount in a very tight area, this is a step I do not want to skip. The objective is to see where the amps have too little room, by virtue of any dents, impressions or crushing of the blue board. If any of this occurs, I will need to tweak the layout. Plus this blue board gives me true 3d dimensions of the design, versus some paper thing chip board. I will take pictures of this, so you can see what I am talking about.

Pics soon...


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## mSaLL150

Sounds like a good plan. To ensure your amps have enough space, try to mount them as low as possible.

How about a list of equipment that you have going in?


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## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Sounds like a good plan. To ensure your amps have enough space, try to mount them as low as possible.
> 
> How about a list of equipment that you have going in?


Good idea! I have posted this in several places around this forum over the last few weeks, so I just wanted to make sure I didn't annoy others. But this is a good location for the image. Here is the equipment diagram.











The only thing not shown, and I am not sure about, is a center channel speaker which I would like to install in the overhead rail area. My hearing is not great, so I think my cell phone calls would be easier on me with a center channel speaker (right above my right ear). I wish there was a way to have this center channel ONLY work for the phone calls.....AND at the same time have the system mute all other speakers when a call comes in on the phone. I cannot find a way to do this with my equipment. The closets I can come to figuring it out is that the AVIC-D3 allows you to isolate cell phone conversations to the right channel. So instead of the "center" speaker being on a center channel, I can tap into the HU speaker level wires and just run it off the HU amp. However, some (more experienced) SQ guys are telling me that might make fine tuning the sound (for SQ) a bit more difficult. This is over my head at the moment. I guess I can always install the speaker and if I dont like it...remove it.


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 3*

No real work done today besides shopping. Here is the list of things done:

1. Purchased 1/2" thick blue board rigid insulation (to make mock up of my amp board)
2. Purchased twelve feet of caraflex 3/4" liquid tight conduit (for power wire routing from battery to rear wall. I forgot to get the rubber dipped clamps!
3. Purchased 1" dia. drill bit for metal surfaces. (to gain access to rear wall area with the caraflex conduit).
4. Purchased center channel speakers for cellphone conversation. I chose Infinity Kappa 32.9cf 3-1/2" 2-way Car Speakers. Remember, these will be toggled off during all listening, EXCEPT cell phone calls.
5. Purchased speaker cabinet carpet (black) to cover my rear wall mounting board (MDF).
6. Purchased 1/2" split techflex (50') , heat shrink (box of mixed colors and sizes 3M brand) and two sizes of wire loom all from Parts Express.
7. Purchased bushings and wire terminals in 1 ga. and 4 ga. for my Big Four wiring upgrades. Purchased from knukonceptz.

Surprises along the way:
1. Not really a lot today. Mostly just in how much money I am spending. But I am 3/4 pregnant now...too late to turn back now.

Next Task
1. Pretty much the same as yesterday. Do the rear wall mock up.
2. Start power wiring from the battery and under belly of truck.
3. Start sound deadening.


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## ARCuhTEK

Day 4

Well my build came crashing down today....in a big way. I did a foam mock up of the rear wall space in the F150 as well as foam mocks up of each amp I intend on installing. The available space behind the backrest in the F150 is crazy small. But I have been reading for months now about how a lot of F150 owners have successfully installed high end audio systems in the exact same truck. Multiple amps, crossovers, wiring, fuse blocks....etc. This also includes the OEM equipment which resides on the rear wall (rear window motor and door security module).

Here is the mock up on my conference room table. Note the foam mock ups of the amps are sitting on a chipboard template of the rear wall, which shows all the OEM equipment sketched on it in red ink. The foam template of the rear wall is sitting behind it on the table.



















It is pretty obvious in the photo that the amp sizes are large and the available space is small. Keep in mind the Bit One processor is not shown here. I also have three distribution blocks and three fuse blocks. All not shown here. The OEM window motor and security module, which shown on the template are not in the photo. Oh and one more thing. The OEM center seat, seatbelt tower, is not shown. I am THINKING about eliminating this tower. Not sure I can. I need the space for the equipment.


Once I finished modeling the pieces, I quickly realized things were going down hill. The foam rear wall template is 1/2" thick mocking the 1/2" MDF I intend to use. I want to put this in the truck so I can get a feel for how tight it will be for final install. The purpose of using foam is to put the rear seat back in and see where the set up crushes the foam. Thus telling me where things are not working out. Tweak and repeat.

So I put the mock up in the truck....and quickly saw a major issue. Make that major issue's. The first issue is the aluminum bar at the bottom of the seat. The bar I took into consideration....the struts located in four places (that hold the latches/release clips) I did NOT think about when laying this out in my head and when laying out the amps on my table inside.

They majorly restrict the available room for amps along the bottom of the rear wall...which is also the deepest dimension available in the entire vehicle.

Then comes more bad news.

My rear seat has a center armrest. This seat design at the backrest, results in two large metal struts in the middle of the backrest that I did not see before. This is bad news because it basically restricts the available amps ORIENTATION to vertical with no hope for horizontal placement.

Due to this...it is painfully obvious that my largest and most favorite amp, the McIntosh MC431 (100x4) with those gorgeous blue meters.....will NOT be able to fit in the rear..under any seat....anywhere. 

Then I place the DLS A6 vertical and the McIntosh MCC204 vertical in the ONLY two places they will possibly go. They fit.....but ONLY with the 1/2" rear wall "MDF" board completely gone. That 1/2" thickness is desperately needed.

So now I am down to two amps (have to totally rethink power, speakers..channels etc now), no MDF board to mount stuff on...and I am even afraid that the (yet to be installed) damplifer pro will cause clearance issues if it is too thick when applied.

I drove home tonight...in complete disappointment and I am very discouraged. I had such good plans for all this equipment (I have literally spent about $8k now....and this does not include the install).

It was so bad that I am thinking of trading my truck for a F250 (been wanting to do this for a while) or even a Denali.

I am off to post my amps for sale and to look for new amps....

Just shoot me....


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## mSaLL150

Hmm. It apears that you are going with a single 10" driver, placed under the driver's side rear seat with the q-logic enclosure.

If you can get 2 amps on the backwall passenger side and the processor driver's side, then put the 3rd amp under the rear passenger side seat, wouldn't that work?

My truck does not have that center armrest you speak of, which is weird. However, im pretty sure that the crappy Power Acoustik mono block i USED to have back there (before i got the Cadence) was taller than any of your amps. it was nearly 3" tall, and i had it mounted on 3/4 MDF and it STILL fit fine. It was mounted horizontally.

I dunno man, it just seem weird. When i see guys doing THIS...





















...I feel like getting your stuff back there shouldn't be as difficult as you make it sound...but then again, I'm not there in person. :blush:


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## ARCuhTEK

Ya know....maybe I am getting down too early and fast. Your photos just gave me a lift. Let me study them and look again.

I forgot to mention in the thread above (as if it was not long enough already..) that one of the main issues was my amp height.

They are all 2.5" to 2 3/4" tall.

Man I dont see how you did that. Let me go look...I am excited to see your photos.

Oh and by the way...one amp will fit under the rear passenger seat, with some of it slightly forward of the seat lip....which is OK...just not preferred.

I know I have options...but I wanted this to be a certain way...and I get frustrated when it tailspins. I will figure it out...but your held is greatly needed and appreciated.

Thank you.


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## ARCuhTEK

So did you eliminate the rear window motor? Where is the power door security module. You can see on my chipboard template, where they fall on the rear wall. The module is easy to move. The motor I dont mind eliminating (I never use it)....but it was a last resort. I see you still have the seat belt tower. I have no idea how you got all that stuff in there. Your amps may be less deep (in height dimension) than mine, but as you have stated, yours is on 3/4" MDF! I eventually took my 1/2" thick foam rear wall panel template OUT of the truck because it was adding too much thickness.

Lets say your amps were 1 1/2" tall.....add 3/4" and you are at 2 1/4". Hmm.... Do you have any idea how tall your amps are? I may try to look up the model numbers of yours and specs...just to see. 

I am REALLY scratching my head!


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## BCF150

Hey Kevin, I see you've run into some issues.

The above pictures are not MSall150's truck. That install belongs to another member over on F150online.com. I can't remember his screen name though. If you look closely you'll see that his truck doesn't have the sliding rear window, so he doesn't have to deal with the window motor. If I remember correctly he is a glass installer, so he removed his whole rear window and replaced it with the non sliding version so he could remove the motor assembly.

Also the security module can be moved to behind the drivers side C-pillar, which clears some space for you. Take a look back at some of those pictures I sent you. I've seen a guy over on F150online who has three Zapco Competition Amps mounted back there.

Also I think I sent you the pic of it, but there is a simply fix to your depth problem. You need to fashion a set of spacers for the top of your seat. I'll try to find the pic where another guy did his. Good Luck and don't get discouraged, you just have to get a litte creative, which looking at your install so far I don't see being a problem for you!


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## ARCuhTEK

Thanks Brad,

I am heavy into this "issue" right now. I will refer back to your photos. I have been between the computer and the truck all day trying to be "creative". I have decided that I need to sell the McIntosh amps so I posted them for sale here. I also posted my focal Utpoias for sale (due to having to reconfigure my amp set up)

Maybe the spacer photo will help me....

Thanks!


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## mSaLL150

Sorry for the confusion ARC. That setup belongs to F150truckin. 

These pictures are of my setup as of November when i was installing the passives components i used for a bit (i havent taken recent pictures of my progress towards an active setup). I did not elminate the rear window motor, i just tucked the cord into that slit to make my mounting board as large as possible:












As you can see, i relocated the remote unlock module to one of my mounting boards:




























That amp on the far side was friggin tall. Almost 3". I didn't need any spacers. 

I dont know if Ford made the designs for the back seat different on the Supercrew and Supercab, because I have a Supercab.


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## ARCuhTEK

I realized the truck was not yours after the post. At first I thought you had altered your design (you had said you were increasing your output).

I think I (again) have some ideas to chew on tonight. Very frustrating vehicle for sure. 

My best friend (doing a simultaneous install) has a SuperCab. So I will get a direct comparison tomorrow or this weekend. I will post any differences here. He has only one amp, a RF Punch 1000, which is 23" wide and 2 5/8" tall. He called me tonight to let me know his amp will not work either....and he has no where near the stuff on the rear wall that I do....no SP, no multiple distribution blocks...etc.

Tomorrow is another day...


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## mSaLL150

Well good luck man, I know it will work, you just need to tinker with it.

I'll post pictures once i have all 3 amps in. I'm almost 100% positive they will fit easily.


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## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> I'll post pictures once i have all 3 amps in. I'm almost 100% positive they will fit easily.


Thank you...I need it. Keyword..."easily" I might just take you up on that bet!!


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## 2f150

I have an 06 Scab with sliding rear window and the middle seatbelt contraption. I relocated the window motor, removed the seatbelt contraption, removed that bar at the bottom that holds the kiddy seat straps, and then I ditched my MDF mounting boards to give me some more area to mount the amps. Getting rid of the MDF boards allows me to install an MCC toward the bottom of the wall, due to the seat angle. I could probably cram 4 amps back there now, easily 3. Yes there is probably a better way to do it, but I'm not getting rid of my 4X4.


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## ARCuhTEK

2f150 said:


> I have an 06 Scab with sliding rear window and the middle seatbelt contraption. I relocated the window motor, removed the seatbelt contraption, removed that bar at the bottom that holds the kiddy seat straps, and then I ditched my MDF mounting boards to give me some more area to mount the amps. Getting rid of the MDF boards allows me to install an MCC toward the bottom of the wall, due to the seat angle. I could probably cram 4 amps back there now, easily 3. Yes there is probably a better way to do it, but I'm not getting rid of my 4X4.


I have two MACS, one of which is square in geometry (top view) and would benefit from the method you describe and would fit near the bottom. That is the MCC204. However, my "critical" amp at this point is my MC431M, and the one I love the most. It is a monster in size compared to most amps. Right now, I do not think this amp will fit even with the removal of the MDF. If I turn it horizontal in the wall, it takes up the space of two amps (bascially takes ALL of the space from the window motor toward the passenger side C pillar. If I turn it vertical, I will definitely have to either remove the MDF or add a top of back rest spacer.


On a side note....I ordered a new amp last night. An Audison Lrx 4.300. It will replace the MC431M should I not find a way to mount it. I have both McIntosh amps now for sale on the classified forum.


However you do make an interesting statement. You say you removed the entire bar that hold the kiddy seats straps? How did you do that? It is welded to each of the four (or is it five) clamps/posts (not sure what to call them) so you must have had a lot of cutting to do. I would love to see a photo of that set up.

Oh and by the way....I was joking about getting rid of my truck. My truck is pure luxury. The only way I would get rid of it, would be to buy another.


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## 2f150

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have two MACS, one of which is square in geometry (top view) and would benefit from the method you describe and would fit near the bottom. That is the MCC204. However, my "critical" amp at this point is my MC431M, and the one I love the most. It is a monster in size compared to most amps. Right now, I do not think this amp will fit even with the removal of the MDF. If I turn it horizontal in the wall, it takes up the space of two amps (bascially takes ALL of the space from the window motor toward the passenger side C pillar. If I turn it vertical, I will definitely have to either remove the MDF or add a top of back rest spacer.
> 
> 
> On a side note....I ordered a new amp last night. An Audison Lrx 4.300. It will replace the MC431M should I not find a way to mount it. I have both McIntosh amps now for sale on the classified forum.
> 
> 
> However you do make an interesting statement. You say you removed the entire bar that hold the kiddy seats straps? How did you do that? It is welded to each of the four (or is it five) clamps/posts (not sure what to call them) so you must have had a lot of cutting to do. I would love to see a photo of that set up.
> 
> Oh and by the way....I was joking about getting rid of my truck. My truck is pure luxury. The only way I would get rid of it, would be to buy another.


I'll try to run out and snap some photos during my break, or better yet I'll take some when there is daylight so you can see. The "kiddy bar" is actually just bolted down, but yes you will need to cut it because it holds the seatback. I took the whole thing out when I dynamatted the rear wall, and noticed that most of the structure is used for kid seats. 

I probably weakened the design, but if you have ever looked at the frame inside the seatback it is way overkill. Basically, just picture the 2 outside "clamps / posts" with nothing in between. It was just 2 cuts with a carbide skill saw blade, takes 20 seconds. Its thick so watch out for burrs, and a table vise will come in handy. I know all this is kind of pointless without pics, but I'm lucky to be working 85 hours a week, and I plan on showing you what I came up with.

Nice amps BTW, I also run a 3 way and settled on the Zapcos. Tweet / Mid on my dash with 8s in the doors, sounds like a concert. I have pics in another F150 thread.
Jason


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## ARCuhTEK

Thanks Jason. I asked because I was thinking the four posts connected with the kiddie bar would have no lateral/horizontal support, if the bar were to be removed. I think I have seen your posts before....are you the one with the mids/tweets that reside in the very corners of your windshield?


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 4*

Day 4 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 15*

*Work done today:*

1. It has been very slow going. I am really wanting to get my Damplyfier Pro installed. But I have been having amazing problems with Second Skin Audio, who has in turn, been having problems with UPS. They delivered 1 of 2 boxes 2 weeks ago and SS and UPS have been trying to track the second box. Unfortunately, it was the box with the mat in it! I really dont think SS has done a good job of customer service. Sure, they tell me they will get right on it...but a week later, they have done nothing. When I talk to them again, the have to re-ask all the questions....who are you....what is the issue..... And then they go through all the solutions again....only to arrive at..."we will get right on it!!". Three days later...nothing. It has been 21 days since I ordered the product....nothing! They claim I will get the product tomorrow. I am betting against it. So in short, this snafu has really held me up. I have been trying to run a few wires, get my amp board figured out..etc. But I cannot fully complete my amp board without my sound mat.

2. I spent literally 3 hours on JUST running my one and only 1/0 ga. power wire today. At first it was really easy...went smooth as butter! If you follow my post, you will know that I am locating the power wire outside my truck in liquid tight caraflex. My friend Grady and I went at it easily. Then came getting the caraflex conduit and busing to penetrate the rear floor behind the seat. It took us about one and a half hours to get that bushing installed. The problem was (I will post photos tomorrow) that the best location for this was in a narrow spot beside the cab mount bolt (the fourth bolt holding the rear seat support down). It was tight, tight, tight! But we managed to get it in. It did not help that when I calculated the final length of the caraflex.......it was literally to the 1/8" the exact length. Great for aesthetics but bad for when you need a little slack in the line to help with install. I THOUGHT I calculated some slack...but it did not turn out that way.

3. Before the day started I went to Lowes and purchased some zip ties, self tapping metal sheet metal screws and 3/4" aluminum conduit clamps. I could not find the rubber dipped conduit clamps. I am not sure they are necessary, since the caraflex is very thick walled rubber.

4. Purchased (yet even more) bushings and 1 ga. screw type wire terminals in 1 ga. from knukonceptz.

Thats it for today....not a lot...but it took a lot of effort.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Not really a lot today. I would say the surprise of the day is how difficult it is to drill a self tapping sheet metal screw (16/10/1/4") into the underside of the floor pan. In fact, I was unable to actually do it. Then I tried to drill a pilot hole in the floor pan.....still no juice. I gave up and looked for a different way.


*Next Task*
1. Start sound deadening.

2. Possibly work on my center channel. Since this will tap in to the high level speaker connections from the HU, I could possible complete this task without dependency on other parts of the install.

3. Purchase a very small amount of black speaker cloth, toggle switch and a small metal strap for mounting the 3 1/2" centrer channel speaker.


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## rch10007

Hey ARC... I followed you and Sall over from the F150 forum. 

What is that chileshouse in your sig?

Good luck with the install - I'm trying to learn as much as possible before I begin purchasing equipment. Back in the early 90's, I built a box with 4 6X9's that hit pretty hard and sounded clear, but things seem to have changed a bit. Anyways, I hope you figure out the space issues...


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## ARCuhTEK

The Chiles House is my pride and joy. It is my house. Five years ago it was a dump. I have worked to restore it and now it is complete. Enjoy!

And to think....after all THAT (I mean the house was about to collapse...literally)...I am letting some lil ole amp wall get the best of me! LOL


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## rch10007

ARCuhTEK said:


> The Chiles House is my pride and joy. It is my house. Five years ago it was a dump. I have worked to restore it and now it is complete. Enjoy!
> 
> And to think....after all THAT (I mean the house was about to collapse...literally)...I am letting some lil ole amp wall get the best of me! LOL


Ha! You did a great job! I was wondering about the "Chiles" part becasue my last name is Childs. I reckon we're cousins.


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## 2f150

I had a chance to take the quick photos, pardon the mess:



















Here is one of those pain in the ass bolts. I will probably cut it off too.









I don't know what I was measuring. Top of amp to seat? This shows the motor relocated at the bottom.


















You can install some stuff up high if it is shallow.









I took off that hook so I dont scratch the hell out of my seat.









It's about 2 1/2" to the bolt, that is, all the way down at the bottom.









Who needs seatbelts anyways.









I've put a Mac back there no problem, but it was not as wide as the 431, same height though. I think you could make it fit by getting rid of those angled clamps / posts, then put it right above the PITA bolts that hold the cab.


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## ARCuhTEK

Wow you are really nice to take the time to post these pics to assist me, especially with the tape measure. It is very clear what you did on your install. So much so I think I will go study them more!

Man......wow I REALLY appreciate it!

Thanks,


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## 2f150

ARCuhTEK said:


> Wow you are really nice to take the time to post these pics to assist me, especially with the tape measure. It is very clear what you did on your install. So much so I think I will go study them more!
> 
> Man......wow I REALLY appreciate it!
> 
> Thanks,



Montel says, This is howwedoit.......


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## 1000aire

For what its worth, I too have an F-150 and way back when, when I purchased my stereo equipment there was an F-150 in the stereo shop that installer had put 2 amps under the passenger side rear seat. He built a bracket to hold the 2nd amp up above the first and stacked them, leaving enough room between them to let air circulate and keep them from getting hot. I don't know if you have access to a metal shop or if the supplies can be purchased from Home Depot or something, but it was a cool idea for a truck with limited space. I wish I had pics but I didn't take any.


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## King Nothing

Man, seeing what you guys are going through makes me glad i have all kinds of room behind my back seats. little pic just to make you guys jealous of my MASSIVE SPACE


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## ARCuhTEK

I saw that on another thread.....dont make me kick you in the shins bo'!


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## mxl16

King Nothing said:


> Man, seeing what you guys are going through makes me glad i have all kinds of room behind my back seats. little pic just to make you guys jealous of my MASSIVE SPACE


Im jealous man. I have an 06 frontier double cab and real estate behind the rear seats is VERY hard to come by.I am fighting for precious inches to shoe-horn a Mc in there.


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## chithead

Nice clean install you have going on here.


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## ARCuhTEK

chithead said:


> Nice clean install you have going on here.


Except.....the pic you are looking at is not my install.....


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## King Nothing

ARCuhTEK said:


> Except.....the pic you are looking at is not my install.....


Sorry, With all the talk about squeezing things in i thought id make you jealous


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## chithead

ARCuhTEK said:


> Except.....the pic you are looking at is not my install.....


Well chit! Boy did I get confused on page one. Can I copy and paste my comment later on after you post pics of your progress? :laugh:


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## M.Hendrix

ARC, That is a lot to fit in that cab isn't it? Keep trying I'm sure you will get it. With the amount and quality of equipment you have chosen I would be in a hurry to get it finished myself, but sometimes you can take a couple days off (don't mess with it/think about it) to clear your mind and come up with a solution. Whatever you do don't get "burnt out" on it because people tend to start rushing at the end just to get done. You have too good a start to let that happen. Good luck


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## jel847

heres a pic of two of my amps under the passenger side rear seat in my scab 2005

























the driver side looks funky because the sub box wasnt pushed completely under the seat....
i have two mtx thunder 2160's stacked there.


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## ARCuhTEK

chithead said:


> Well chit! Boy did I get confused on page one. Can I copy and paste my comment later on after you post pics of your progress? :laugh:


Oh page one IS my install. I thought you were talking about the one with the sub box above.


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## ARCuhTEK

M.Hendrix said:


> ARC, That is a lot to fit in that cab isn't it? Keep trying I'm sure you will get it. With the amount and quality of equipment you have chosen I would be in a hurry to get it finished myself, but sometimes you can take a couple days off (don't mess with it/think about it) to clear your mind and come up with a solution. Whatever you do don't get "burnt out" on it because people tend to start rushing at the end just to get done. You have too good a start to let that happen. Good luck


I love the equipment I have chosen. However, it had changed in the last few days. I will redo the diagram soon, but I want to make a final decision on the components first.

Here are the changes:

McIntosh MC431M has been cut from the team. Which is too bad...its one bad ass amp. It has been replaced with a much smaller but more powerful Audison Lrx 300.4 (its is more powerful in bridged mode but less powerful in standard mode) It will produce 210 w RMS per channel into two 6.5" midbass.

McIntosh MC204 has been replaced by yet another Audison Lrx 300.4 which is (just like above) smaller yet more powerful. It will push 65w RMS into each channel. I will have 65w per tweeter and per midrange.

I also went a LITTLE CRAZY on a buying spree....(I do this occasionally). My diagram shows a Sound Splinter Rli-10 SVC (4-ohm). Well I purchased ANOTHER RLi-10, but this one is DVC at 4-ohms. But thats not all......I went further overboard and purcahsed two Blaupaunt VW1000 10" subs, each rated for 1000w RMS (2000w peak)and each are DVC rated at 2-ohm. My amp is a mono amp (DLS A6) rated at 870w RMS into 2-ohm. But it is ALSO rated at 1200 w RMS at 1-ohm. As you know....I can wire a single DVC sub, with each VC rated at 2-ohm to make the amplifer see a 1-ohm load. 

So I now have four sub woofers to choose from.

From me, the fun part will be after everything is buttoned back up....and I can sit and practically do the "plug and play" thing with these subs...just to see which one tickles my fancy. The better news is that I will be having a heck of a sale when the system is done. Crap....I almost have enough to install an entire second system...missing ONLY the HU.

Want more? There is more.

The diagram shows my Focal Utopia 165w3 / K2P midbass mixed component set as my choice front stage. But I decided to also take advantage of a DIYMA group buy on the Hybrid Legatia L6 midbass and L1 tweeter 2 - way component set. So now I have two different front stage set ups to consider.

It will be interesting comparing the K2P to the L6. I am pretty sure I will end up with no midrange component in the front set. Just because I may not want to make the enormous effort it will take to get three speakers up front.

So ....am I in a hurry to get all this stuff installed? Yes...but its cold as HELL outside.

Well actually, thats not true today. So I instaled about 80% (80% of the rear wall) of my Damplifer Pro sound mat today. I will post photos in a few moments. Things are moving slowly forward. I fully expect the install to consume about 3 more weeks, since I have very few hours each day I can dedicate to this system.


Stay tuned.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

jel847 said:


> heres a pic of two of my amps under the passenger side rear seat in my scab 2005. the driver side looks funky because the sub box wasnt pushed completely under the seat....
> i have two mtx thunder 2160's stacked there.


Do you have a seat lift kit?

There is no way my McIntosh amps will fit under the seat. They are too large in both directions to fit in either way. My MC431M is so large it would spill out from under the rear seat and halfway into the floor mat area!!!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

For some reason I cannot go back and edit my previous threads and add in the photos I have taken. So I will post some "catch up" photos here.


Here are some photos of the mock up insulation board amps and mock rear wall. Note the rear wall is full, practically and there is still the MC431M mock up amp on the floor! Remember...I have a WHOLE lot more equipment than just three amps to put on this wall.










This is a close up of the MC204 amp and its relationship to the seat backrest release clamp. Note....I have 1/2" mock up amp board (represents MDF) and no sound mat installed. The front of the MC204 is already sticking out 1.5" in front of (think...in conflict with the seat) the release clip.










OKay...so there is some confession time that is due here....

Look at this pic...










I figured out why my depth was a problem....and many of you posted multiple amp installs without the same issue.

Look closely....the lower left corner of the pic is the clue. What you cannot see, is that the rear wall of the cab, has built in mounting points in the corners of each side near the floor. These points are for attaching the bottom of the C-pillar trim. Look at my photo again....the 1/2" insulation board is being kicked forward about 1.5" because it is resting on top of these mount clips. At the very lower left hand corner of my insulation board you can see airspace between the board and the metal wall. 

I did not realize this until I looked at the photos! LOL

Either way...the MAC amps have to go.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Time to post some photos of the power wire install.

This is the starting point for the power wire at the battery area.










The wire inside the caraflex.









The wire, pre-final attachment....showing final pathway.










Route from the underbelly....between wheel well cover and body...up in front of firewall and into the engine bay. That you see here is the rear side of the passenger side front tire area. The perspective of the photo is such that the front wheel is to your far left. So I am aiming the camera almost perpendicular to the passenger front door. (and looking up toward ceiling/belly of truck).


----------



## mSaLL150

Looks good so far...

Where did your window motor go?

You did 80% of your deadening in 1 day? it took me longer, how much did you use?

I got my 3rd amp today, hopefully next weekend or so I will be able to get it back there with the others.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

This is the point of entry into the cabin, at the rear of the truck, behind backrest. Photo is looking up at belly of truck. What you see here is the liquid tight, caraflex straight connector/bushing. I had to drill a 1" diameter hole to get this puppy in....










Here is the same area, with the caraflex installed. Note I had to grind the corners of the bushing down to get a better fit.










Here is the point of entry into the rear cabin as seen from the inside. From this point the wire will go into techflex all the way to the distribution block. The pathway, will be slightly rearward, the immediately to the right, behind backrest to the center of the rear wall, where it will terminate into the ditro-block.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Looks good so far...
> 
> Where did your window motor go?
> 
> You did 80% of your deadening in 1 day? it took me longer, how much did you use?
> 
> I got my 3rd amp today, hopefully next weekend or so I will be able to get it back there with the others.


You can see the window motor near the bottom of the wall. 









It was temporarily sitting there, unmounted as I tested to see if there was a way to move it around/re-arrange its location. End conclusion is that it needs to stay put.

80% of my sound mat....umm ..not. I fixed that statement above. I installed 80% of all the sound mat I intend to put onto the rear wall and c-pillar areas. That equals about 7 sheets. LOL

See photos in the next reply I am about to post.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 5*

Day 4 hours: 2
*Total build hours: 17*

*Work done today:*

1. Today was a take it easy day. My friend Grady simply installed the center channel speaker into the Ford Overhead Rail System Bin. I did not wire the center channel or purchase and install the toggle switch the speaker (it will be for cell phone conversations only). I merely wanted to make it fit.

raw coaxial:









speaker as shown, bottom mounted in the factory over head bin (bin is not shown installed in the truck..just on a desk)









*Surprises along the way:*
1. I was surprised when Grady told me that the surface of the bin was not flat. It has a convex face so the handmade speaker grille we were going to make, will not quite work. It was an easy approach, so now I will have to figure something else out. No biggie on this one.


*Next Task*
1. Start sound deadening.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 6*

Day 4 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 21*

*Work done today:*

1. These two pics equal about 7 sheets of sound mat installed (12"x20" in size). One layer over the rear wall. I made the task easier by heating each sheet in front of a 60,000 BTU high powered kerosene heater. The truck was fairly warm too.



















I have carefully gone over all the mat with a roller, but I have not recreated the necessary holes where needed for equipment mounting, etc. I will do that last.

I will likely stop with the sound mat install once I finish enough to go under the rear seat. I will then focus on the amp board and wiring. I many not re-start the sound mat install until warmer weather in the spring. I have 80sf of mat on hand now (48 sheets).


*Surprises along the way:*
1. I was surprised that the sound mat went in as easy as it did. I have heard horror stories. Today was pretty easy, but I did spend a lot of time and not get the rear wall installed. So I guess it is in fact a slow process. I also realize the open, large panel of metal is much easier than a small enclosed door that has many hard to reach places and many wires to work around...will be more difficult.

2. I am happy I chose the 12"x20" sheets of Damiplifer Pro. At this size, each sheet is easily handled and maneauvered with the entire backing removed. Any larger and one would have to stick to the "peel back a little....mount....peel further.....mount more...peel further" method.


*Next Task*
1. Continue sound deadening.


----------



## IBcivic

nice work on the deadener! i still have to work on my trunk but at 5 degs. outside,i think i will wait a bit...:disappointed:


----------



## mxl16

ARCuhTEK said:


> Look at this pic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured out why my depth was a problem....and many of you posted multiple amp installs without the same issue.
> 
> Look closely....the lower left corner of the pic is the clue. What you cannot see, is that the rear wall of the cab, has built in mounting points in the corners of each side near the floor. These points are for attaching the bottom of the C-pillar trim. Look at my photo again....the 1/2" insulation board is being kicked forward about 1.5" because it is resting on top of these mount clips. At the very lower left hand corner of my insulation board you can see airspace between the board and the metal wall.
> 
> I did not realize this until I looked at the photos! LOL
> 
> Either way...the MAC amps have to go.[/COLOR]


a roto zip or sawzall will take care of those tabs. I got another inch of depth when I to removed them from the rear cab wall. or you can make cutouts in your mdf wall so the tabs extrude through the mdf allowing the wall to sit flush with the rear of the cab. Of course it depends on where the tabs are located in relation to the location of your amps.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mxl16 said:


> a roto zip or sawzall will take care of those tabs. I got another inch of depth when I to removed them from the rear cab wall. or you can make cutouts in your mdf wall so the tabs extrude through the mdf allowing the wall to sit flush with the rear of the cab. Of course it depends on where the tabs are located in relation to the location of your amps.


I have thought about doing that. I am hesitant, because with my luck, I will cut the tab and never get it lined up to the c-pillar trim hole location and it will flap in the wind for the rest of its life. Okay I am exaggerating....but I am hesitant. I have to notch out the MDF to allow the window motor to stay on the rear wall (my preference but not required) so I may also route out the proper holes for the c-pillar tabs. Since the rear wall has concave folds in the sheet metal, by having the motor flush to its original position on the wall, I can keep the pulley cables routed UNDER the MDF and in those OEM grooves on the rear wall. I really dont want to deal with those cables while trying to make my amp board layout "pretty". Seems cleaner that way.

I am going to cover my MDF with black carpet. I am also going to custom cut my OEM rear wall carpet to fit at the top of the MDF amp board. While at it, I want to get creative and make the center of that OEM carpet wall, slip over top of the window motor and hid it from view even with the rear back rest removed. So basically it will be cut horizontally across the top of my amp board, except in the middle where the motor is....at this point it will extend down at least to the bottom of the motor location. Since I know I will have power distribution blocks below the window motor, I cannot have the OEM carpet wall to extend to the floor.

Make sense?


----------



## mxl16

A rear window motor definitely makes things more complex. I could see why you would want to hide all of that mess in the grooves of the cab wall under the MDF. I, fortunately, don't have that issue but also, unfortunately, have a fixed rear window.


----------



## King Nothing

I find it interesting that you chose to run the power wire outside the cab. Where did you get the stuff you used and how much did it cost. I may look into doing that, although Im running dual 4 gauge, not 1/0


----------



## 8675309

Looking good so far


----------



## ARCuhTEK

King Nothing said:


> I find it interesting that you chose to run the power wire outside the cab. Where did you get the stuff you used and how much did it cost. I may look into doing that, although Im running dual 4 gauge, not 1/0


The 1/0 is difficult to hide in the cab floor, but my best friend (doing install now too) chose to route the 1/0 wire down the passenger side door sill. So it can be done either way.

The conduit can be found at Lowes in the electrical wiring aisle. It is 3/4" caraflex. I cannot recall the price but I purchased 12 feet of it and I dont remember any sticker price shock.... Maybe $1 to $3 per foot. I know thats a wide range....

It works well. I have no regrets with it and would do it again.

Let me also say that I forgot to add a second wire from the batter to my rear cab, which will serve as a memory wire for my sound processor. So I have to run that soon. I HOPE....HOPE it will be a breeze with this conduit in place rather than having to feed it through the firewall and under the carpet all over again. I can tell you this....since my 1/0 ga. wire has not been secured to equipment...I can always pull that sucker out in about 2 seconds....and add both the new memory wire and the 1/0 back into the conduit ....very quickly. I bet money that will be faster than trying to feed the memory wire alongside the 1/0 already in the conduit.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 7*

Day 7 hours: 2
*Total build hours: 23*

*Work done today:*
1. I just snuck in about 2 hours worth of applying sound mat to my rear wall tonight. That equals about three 12"x20" sheets of sound mat. Not a lot. But I am now about 90% finished with the rear wall of the truck.

As stated before, I will probably not continue applying the sound deadening mat to the remainder of the truck, or the doors until Spring. I am forced to do this to the rear wall, because the amp board cannot continue without the sound mat.

It was snowing like crazy and the wind was gusting at about 40 mph. It is predicted that the temps will be *10-15 below zero tomorrow* (coldest I have ever felt in Asheville should that really occur!). So applying sound mat is not a good thing in the cold. I am in a heated garage....but still!

*
Surprises along the way:*
1. The F150 has two large vents in the rear wall for air pressure and air exchange I am sure. I have debated what to do with these and finally tonight I pulled the trigger......I cut the vents out and applied sound mat over the holes (four layers!) My first surprise of the night was when I drive the truck...wow...WOW....WOWOWOWOW....it is a lot quieter because these two holes are covered up!

2. Second surprise came when I turned the heater in my truck on....man...there is a whistling sound that is loud...and I know its because I covered the two vents up and the air pressure increase is making its way out of the truck through every crevice possible. I have a plan for how to fix this...so I will post it later. It involves an air filter for a vaccum cleaner!

*
Next Tasks*
1. Continue sound deadening. 
2. Start amp wall and wiring!!!!


----------



## chithead

Yeah it was pretty chilly out this morning, 19 here in Salisbury. Heard ya'll got hit a lot worse than we did though! I am curious about this vacuum cleaner filter. I heard about covering one vent up, but did not know what kind of repercussions would occur from losing both...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chithead said:


> Yeah it was pretty chilly out this morning, 19 here in Salisbury. Heard ya'll got hit a lot worse than we did though! I am curious about this vacuum cleaner filter. I heard about covering one vent up, but did not know what kind of repercussions would occur from losing both...


Well, my plan is to continue to seal all openings. So we shall see if it solves the whistling problem. But its science really....if you introduce air into the cabin, air must leave in order to maintain current room pressure. So rather than fight it, I plan to work with it and manipulate it. The best way I know to do this is to do so with an air filter. Any air filter will do, but I want a small one. The idea is to allow air passage but introduce something that will also absorb sound. No air filter is designed to absorb sound....they just do by virtue of their materials.

The first air filter than came to my mind ( I am not familiar with lots of them but I will google them today). is for a Hoover Floor Mate vacuum cleaner.

Here is the web page for it.

Vacuum Cleaner Filters - Genuine Hoover Standard & HEPA Vacuum Filters for Your Hoover Vacuum

Here is a pic:









So if I HAVE to...which I assume I will, I will open up the OEM hole (now covered with four layers of sound mat) where one of the two vents existed...and insert this filter. It will allow air to pass, and will absorb SOME sound.

There is one difference however.

The OEM vents only allow air to EXIT the vehicle. Inserting this filter would allow air to exit and enter the vehicle.

I am not saying this will solve the whistling problem, I am saying its my way of trying to solve it. Deep inside I am hoping when I finish sound deadening, there will be no whistle! But I had hoped to postpone further sound deadening until spring. I dont know if I can live with the whistle that long.

Another easy fix is to simply poke some holes in the sound mat at the OEM vent holes.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 8*

Day 8 hours: 3
*Total build hours: 26*
*
Work done today:*
1. I FINALLY finished all of the rear wall sound deadening installation. (see pics below)! I am a patient person, so I have been taking my sweet time, trying to do things as right as I can make them. Perhaps not "professional" but I think I came close if one only considers the sound deadener stuff.
As stated before, I will probably not continue applying the sound deadening mat to the remainder of the truck, or the doors until Spring. I am forced to do this to the rear wall, because the amp board cannot continue without the sound mat. The real trick on install is wiring, driver placement and tuning. I have limited experience in those areas...we shall see.

Here is the cabin, passengers side rear wall. Note the OEM rear wall vent (one of two on this wall) in this photo versus the others.




































So I am VERY glad to now get on with the AMP board (I need to figure out final layout, equipment location on the board and then figure out how to wire it "neatly." It will drive me crazy to go this distance, and have sloppy wiring.

2. I still do not have my Bit One Signal Processor, so that will cause a kink in the install schedule, if it does not arrive soon. All my wiring goes through the B1...so I can mount amps, distribution blocks and do all the wiring to the speakers from the amps....but I cannot connect the amps to the HU since they are go through the B1.

3. All other sound deadening in the floor and doors will be postponed until Spring.
*
Surprises along the way:*
1. The sound mat has taken longer than I expected, but then again...I am intentionally slow because I feel that it allows me more time to get it right. But we all know everybody moves at a different pace.

2. The truck is SO much quieter than it was before......there is absolutely NO debating this, as long as you cover the rear OEM vents.

*Next Tasks*
1. Reinstall all wiring into OEM grommets.
2. Reinstall C-Pillar trim (as a test..) then Remove C-Pillars trim again.
3. Start amp wall carpet, equipment layout and mounting
4. Remount rear window motor.
5. Start speaker and HU to processor wiring!!!! 

I also took a couple of pictures of my amps....


----------



## braves6117

Its all coming together quite well!

Your air conditioner whistle explains mine as well....I just missed that little relationship regarding air coming in means air must go out lol  I assumed I pissed off my a/c. lol

Also, with your mention of being new with wiring, keep in mind each components signal lines and to not cross them with power lines. I'm no pro myself, I fell victim with at least one component having signal line crossing a power line grrrrr


----------



## mSaLL150

I too noticed a HUGE difference in sound levels when i deadened the rear wall and sealed up the vents. Really reduced tire and exhaust noise.

Looking good so far!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Its all coming together quite well!
> 
> Your air conditioner whistle explains mine as well....I just missed that little relationship regarding air coming in means air must go out lol  I assumed I pissed off my a/c. lol
> 
> Also, with your mention of being new with wiring, keep in mind each components signal lines and to not cross them with power lines. I'm no pro myself, I fell victim with at least one component having signal line crossing a power line grrrrr



By crossing lines...you mean power and speaker wire running adjacent to each other? I have that problem licked...my main power line is running in conduit under the truck. But, I also know that on the amp wall it will be close company between all those wires. But I think I can handle it. Actually I feel comfortable with the wiring much more than the tuning.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> By crossing lines...you mean power and speaker wire running adjacent to each other? I have that problem licked...my main power line is running in conduit under the truck. But, I also know that on the amp wall it will be close company between all those wires. But I think I can handle it. Actually I feel comfortable with the wiring much more than the tuning.


Close company is right! I had one set of RCA's I had to reroute an extra 6 feet in my false floor just to avoid crossing the D-block!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I have more power wire than I do RCA wire length. In fact...I planned for very little extra length in my RCA's. Hmmm.... I better route them first!


----------



## King Nothing

you might want to check, But I was under the impression it was OK to cross the RCAs and power as long as you dont run them next to each other lengthwise


----------



## Genxx

King Nothing said:


> you might want to check, But I was under the impression it was OK to cross the RCAs and power as long as you dont run them next to each other lengthwise



That is what I have also understood. I still think old school though and separate them when possible just in case. I know there was a long debate on here over the subject and IIRC the general consensuses was you can run them all together. I agree with that as long as you are using quality RCA's and cable.


----------



## King Nothing

I always run mine down seperates ides of the vehicle, But sometimes you have to cross them


----------



## braves6117

Yup, I drew my suggestion from the old school might as well try not crossing at all.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Years ago, I DID get a huge amount of whine when I ran power and speaker wire parallel. I was 16. Now I am (censored) and know so much better! HA!

Since my power wire is under my truck secured away in its own conduit, the only place I will have a problem is on the face of my amp board. I know that some level of interference can be avoided by the use of lead shielding. This stuff, while very expensive can be found pretty easily if you know where to look. Since I would not need much at all, it is possible to use this "inexpensively." I will first try to avoid contact or crossing of ANY wires....no matter the type. If that fails to a perfect 100% level...I will cross wherever NECESSARY....if I get any interference or whine....out comes the LEAD SHIELD!!! (Evil laugh). Seriously though....I doubt I will come close to needing it.

By the way....what are you guys using to secure your wiring to your amp boards or other surface. I do not think I can use a zip tie as their is nothing to latch it onto....just a flat carpet face. Any suggestions?


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> By the way....what are you guys using to secure your wiring to your amp boards or other surface. I do not think I can use a zip tie as their is nothing to latch it onto....just a flat carpet face. Any suggestions?


I used these guys with black screws so it would blend in nicely...


Parts Express:1/4" Cable Clamp 50 Pcs. Black

.They have different sizes for bigger wire as well


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hey I use the white version of these to hold the wire down on my christmas lights when installing to my house. I wonder if Lowes has the black version too. Will check tomorrow.

Thanks!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just wanted to post a couple of before and after pics of the rear wall sound deadening.

BEFORE









AFTER:










I have found that I need the before photo just to find some of the hole to reinsert screws, etc. LOL


----------



## ARCuhTEK

By the way...since this is an install thread, I would be remiss if I did not mention a few things learned...

Here is one:

For anyone who has the rear window motor mounted on the rear wall. I "thought" I would simply take the motor off of its mounting bracket and then mount the motor on my amp board (it was one of several options I considered).

I thought wrong.

That mounting bracket attaches to the motor, and essentially holds the spooled steel cable (and plastic spool) inside the motor itself. I have no idea why they designed it such that the motor is not stand alone...but if you remove the mountain bracket, the spool can potentially fall out....trust me...you DONT want that to happen.

So in essence, my verdict is this:

1. The damed window motor must stay attached to its OEM mounting bracket and therefore:
2. You cannot move the stupid thing from the center of your rear wall...PERIOD. 
3. The best you can do is to slightly reroute the wires out of your way.

Here is a bad photo. The window motors is partially covered by the carpet because it is not mounted in this photo. If you look at my cardboard template, you can see the red outline of where the motor exists....and always will exist.










Bastard!


----------



## mSaLL150

Yeah the window motor sucks. The other crappy part is that the cables arent flexible, so they take away even MORE valuable space. I have people in the backseat constantly, so I have to keep my seatbelt tower as well. My backwall is going to be STUFFED here pretty soon.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Yeah the window motor sucks. The other crappy part is that the cables arent flexible, so they take away even MORE valuable space. I have people in the backseat constantly, so I have to keep my seatbelt tower as well. My backwall is going to be STUFFED here pretty soon.


Ditto on the cables!!! BLAh!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 9*

Day 9 hours: 5
*Total build hours: 31*
*
Work done today:*
1. Made chipboard template for my rear wall amp board.










2. Installed residential soffitt vent into sound mat where OEM vent was located (but previously covered with sound mat by me).










3. Cut amp board from MDF and applied carpet.










4. Moved security module to sidewall.










5. Started a preliminary layout of the amps and distribution blocks (no wiring) for the purposes of checking clearances (for the second time).





































*IT FITS!!!!!*









6. I also re-mounted about 75% of the wiring found around the rear wall.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. It was VERY surprising how difficult it was to drill into a couple of places on the rear wall with double walled sheet metal.

2. Even with smaller amps, I am still having to really think about how my wiring will actually be routed on the amp board in order to be clean and no have power and signal overlapping.

3. I am missing a ground wire distribution block.

4. I ordered a power distribution block with built in fuses...yet I also ordered separate fuse blocks. One of those days where I was over thinking the project. I will add that the after-install sale inventory!

*Next Tasks*
1. Continue final amp board mock up of equipment layout.
2. Start wiring.
3. Install front stage door speakers.
4. Wait on my Bit One signal processor to arrive (should be in the next 7 days).
5. Fire up my system for the first time!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

A few other notes:

1. I neatly cut out the hole for the rear window motor to maximize the area available to me for wire routing and mounting my signal processor and fuse blocks. However......

I had an epiphany today...

I have decided to "picture frame" around the window motor with a second layer of MDF (carpeted). Think of it as a second layer in the middle of the amp board. On top of this, I will mount my power and ground distribution blocks. The power distribution block has built in fuses. 

This area just so happens to be perfectly aligned with my center rear seat armrest. When folded down, the armrest reveals a think layer of cloth fabric. I used to have a BMW with this same set up, but that piece of cloth was held in place with velcro. When pulled, it revealed a hole in to the trunk. This was for putting snow skis in the car.

So why not cut my fabric and install velcro. When pulled it will reveal easy access to my fuses? I dont expect to be blowing fuses often but after reading this thread you know how freaking hard it is to get the backrest off this rear wall....so WHY NOT?

Here is a photo where you can see the armrest area.


----------



## braves6117

Excellent job! Those audison's are dead sexy mounted. You are definitely the measure twice, cut once guy. It show's.

I can't wait to see further progression.


----------



## IBcivic

*Surprises along the way:*
2. Even with smaller amps, I am still having to really think about how my wiring will actually be routed on the amp board in order to be clean and no have power and signal overlapping.




Ark,dont sweat it>when using quality cables ,having power wire cross paths with audio cable should be a none issue....it's long parralel runs that can cause some noize. 
my previous set-up had zero noise issues and the power + amp inputs ran zip tied together for 6 feet[i know...i was begging for trouble] 

keep up the nice work...lookin good


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Thanks stinky...

I am not worried too much about it. I believe that with no current unforeseen issues, that I will be able to route all power/ground wires completely separate from the RCA's and the speaker wire.

Most of the issue about routing has to do with available space. At this point I have plenty, but there are a couple of tight spots. No biggie!

Thanks,


----------



## ChrisB

ARCuhTEK said:


> *Surprises along the way:*
> 1. It was VERY surprising how difficult it was to drill into a couple of places on the rear wall with double walled sheet metal.


I don't want to even tell you how many drill bits I have snapped working on double walled Ford and Chevy full sized trucks. On another note, I couldn't get over how soft the metal was in a friend's 1991 Toyota pickup truck


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## ARCuhTEK

We snapped two drill bits yesterday. We decided it easier to change where we drilled rather than driving to lowes to buy another bit. LOL


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## mSaLL150

Yeah I lost a drill bit to the rear wall and another in the front passenger door. Damn double layer sheetmetal.

Arc you make me want to re-do my backwall boards. They are perfectly fine but are not carpeted and not as clean-cut.


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## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Yeah I lost a drill bit to the rear wall and another in the front passenger door. Damn double layer sheetmetal.
> 
> Arc you make me want to re-do my backwall boards. They are perfectly fine but are not carpeted and not as clean-cut.


I am glad I can make SOMEONE jealous!


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 10*

Day 10 hours: 1
*Total build hours: 32*

*Work done today:*
1. Made a second MDF board to cover rear window motor. (pics tro come)
2. Mounted power distribution block and ground distribution block.
3. No wiring done today.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. It is amazing how every time you turn around....you forget to get something....zip ties...a certain screw size...adhesive spray....new razor blade. I spend a great deal of time driving BACK to Lowes. Thank goodness it is less than 1 mile from me!

*Next Tasks*
1. Continue final amp board mock up of equipment layout.
2. Start wiring.
3. Install front stage door speakers.
4. Wait on my Bit One signal processor to arrive (should be in the next 7 days).
5. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> *Day 10*
> 
> *Surprises along the way:*
> 1. It is amazing how every time you turn around....you forget to get something....zip ties...a certain screw size...adhesive spray....new razor blade. I spend a great deal of time driving BACK to Lowes. Thank goodness it is less than 1 mile from me.


lowes/h-depot= DIY'er's 2nd home


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## ARCuhTEK

* Day 11*

Day 11 hours: 3
*Total build hours: 35*
*
Work done today:*
1. Remounted Audison amps because they were slightly too high on the amp board to run power wires around them at the top.

2. I did my final mock up of all power wiring on the amp board. Everything is zipped tied down (not my final mounting device of choice, just temporary). This allowed me to cut all the power and ground wires (4 ga.) running from the distribution blocks to the individual amps. I did not do any soldering, as that is the next step.
*
Surprises along the way:*
1. I thought this was going to be simple as it did not require any complex routing of wires through the vehicle. It was all just from one part of the amp board to another. Wrong. Three hours to route and cut a total of 8 wires. Hey I am slow and anal, but come on! I tore everything out and started over about 3-4 times. I lost count. Because this was temporary, I will now pull everything off the amp board and solder everything all at one time. I will then re-mount each wire using a better clamp.

*Next Tasks*
1. Solder all 4 ga. wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
2. Route 1/2 ga. power and ground wires.
3. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
4. Begin front door speaker install.
5. Wait on my Bit One signal processor to arrive (should be in the next 7 days).
6. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## Apex Rex

That is one sexy looking rear wall with those amps mounted now! I wish I had a newer body style so I could do that, I have to mount everything on the floor under the rear seat in my '99 F150.

A really nice install! I'm jealous of that amp rack, lol.


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## ARCuhTEK

Apex Rex said:


> That is one sexy looking rear wall with those amps mounted now! I wish I had a newer body style so I could do that, I have to mount everything on the floor under the rear seat in my '99 F150.
> 
> A really nice install! I'm jealous of that amp rack, lol.


Thank you. I am taking my sweet time. I am sure I am annoying those that help me with the install now and again with my slow pace. I just want to do it as "right" as I am able to, being new to the car audio world (this time around...cant include my 16 yo days).


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## Apex Rex

There is nothing wrong with taking your time and doing as nice of an install as you are doing right now. It certainly shows the time and effort you have put into this project to plan it out in such detail. Also nice to see a fellow F150 and Porsche owner, albeit mine are slightly older than yours, lol.


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## ARCuhTEK

Some of you may have read another thread I started about locating a wiring path to the front doors for the purposes of connecting my front stage speakers. Here is a repeat of my final decision on the new path:

_"Mission Accomplished.

Tonight I drilled a new hole for the new speaker wires. Some of you say that the molex can be drilled....pins replaced etc. Many solutions. But I have six wires that need to make their way into that door jamb. So I am not sure if that is possible, especially when pushing 75 watts to the tweeters, 75 watts to the midrange and 210 watts to the midbass, using 14 ga. wire. I just dont trust that kind of power to the factory wiring.

I took photos of tonight effort, the cuts into the truck, the grommets...etc. To be honest, it was not that tough. The hardest effort was to carefully study the correct path. After looking at it for a while, it came to me pretty easily where my chosen path would be located.

If looking at the drivers side molex my path exited the cab to the lower right hand side of the molex on a flat portion of the metal. My hole was 1/2" in diameter. My path entrered the drivers side door, by utilizing the ample room in the existing rubber boot (which connects to the molex). The wiring located in this boot from the molex is bundled and is about 1" in diameter total. The rubber gasket/boot is oblong in shape and there is more than enough room either above or below this 1" diameter bundle to enter through the gasket and into the door. No drilling of the door was required.

Sorry there is no pics to show my work. I took several but my USB transfer cable is at work."_

I will update photos tomorrow.


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 12*

Day 12 hours: 3
*Total build hours: 38*

*Work done today:*
1. I started my effort on choosing the new path to my front door speakers. It took me quite a while to sit and look at the door and then decide what I felt was the best pathway. I have described the pathway in the post above. Overall it took me three hours to make the decision, drill the holes (the inside panel adjacent to the parking brake has two walls so I had to drill them both to exit the cabin), plus go to lowest and get grommets. I did not get to actually run wires tonight and I did not start drilling the passenger side door jambs. So not a lot accomplished today.
*
Surprises along the way:*
1. That damned Ford exterior metal (at the rear wall, floor pan and now at the exterior wall) is FORD TOUGH AS HELL). It took me about 30 minutes, with as much pressure as I could muster to get that 1/2" drill bit to break through the wall!!

2. I could not find 1/2" inside diameter black rubber grommets at Lowes. They sold every size and configuration known to man, not a 1/2" I.D. I went with a 5/8" and it worked fine.

*Next Tasks*
1. Solder all 4 ga. wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
2. Route 1/2 ga. power and ground wires.
3. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
4. Finish front door speaker install.
5. Wait on my Bit One signal processor to arrive (should be in the next 7 days).
6. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 13*

Day 13 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 42*

No pictures yet....but I promise they are coming! I am taking pics...just keep forgetting to bring home the USB cable from work!

*Work done today:*
1. Not a lot accomplished today. Today I drilled the passenger side door jamb via a new route near the main fuse box panel found in the passenger side footwell. Believe it or not, much of the time I spent was disconnecting the battery, loosening and shifting the fuse block so my drill woudl not accidentally hit it....etc.

2. I did not do any wiring yet. Tomorrow I need to take a dremel and make the holes slightly larger so my gromets fit well in the new holes. The 1/2" dia. drill bit was the largest one I had to do the job....well I HAVE a 1" dia. but that is a monster!

*Surprises along the way:*
1. I had to disconnect the battery and the main fuse ground wire. I also disconnected a few harnesses away from the fuse box in order to gain room to work while drilling the interior footwell panel. Somehow after i buttoned everything back up properly, my truck woudl not start. After several hours of talking to people on F150 forums, I figured out the solution was simple...I needed to reset my fuel pump. Easy to say now....but for a few hours tonight I was in panic mode!

2. I could not find 1/2" inside diameter black rubber grommets at Lowes. They sold every size and configuration known to man, not a 1/2" I.D. I went with a 5/8" and it worked fine.

*Next Tasks*
1. Dremel each new opening at each to smooth sharp edges and also elnlarge holes slightly in order to get rubber grommets to fit.
2. Solder all 4 ga. wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
3. Route 1/0 ga. power and ground wires around amp board.
4. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
5. Finish front door speaker install.
6. Bit One scheduled to be in my hands on Tuesday 2/17.
7. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> *Day 13*
> 
> No pictures yet....but I promise they are coming! I am taking pics...just keep forgetting to bring home the USB cable from work!


thats 2 nights in a row,now....somehow i think ur trying to cover up that you have been slacking.....


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## ARCuhTEK

I have been moving slowly....work picked up a bit, which is good (but temporary). In two days, I have managed to basically locate and drill two holes in the truck. I have done a few other things like getting my wiring ready to go..etc.

When you see the pics, you will understand. The hole location s I have chosen are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO close to the silly molex plugs that are in the doors, that one mistake and you have damage. I am either very lucky, very careful, very slow, very calculated or all of the above.

The good news is that I should have a spurt of fast paced work now with the pathways mostly open. I do have to remove more of the interior (front seats and center consoles) however.

Best news of all.....after a week of waiting for the Bit One sound processor at my supplier, it will be in my hands Monday.


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## ARCuhTEK

I still dont have my USB cable, but I did remember that I snapped one photo two days ago on my cell phone of the point of exit at the drivers side footwell sidewall, near the parking brake. Here is the pic with the drill still inserted and punching through near the OEM molex plug.










*Day 14*

Day 14 hours: 2
*Total build hours: 44*

*Work done today:*
I finally got the passengers side door wiring threaded through the interior footwell sidewall and the passenger door jamb!! Success. She looks great I must say...or at least as good as I can make her.

I did not connect any wiring. Just placed inside the door and left for future connection.

The doors will have 3 pairs of wires, for a 3-way set up if I so choose to go this route. Right now I am probably going with a 2-way set up until summer weather makes it easier to work on the truck.

Just as additional information, I spent about 15 miutes with my dremel and grinding tip, making my 1/2" drilled opening slightly larger. That is because, the three pairs of twisted wire, need approx. 9/16" diameter opening, AND the drilled opening was to have a rubber grommet to protect the wires from rubbing against sheet metal. The inside diameter of the grommet is 9/16 of an inch with the O.D. being 5/8"

I chose to strip the outer sheathing off the speaker wire, allowing each twisted 9and sheathed pair) to be free. This allowed me to get all wires through the 9/16" opening.
*
Here is a PLAY BY PLAY of what I did...maybe this will provide some tips for you.*

1. Used grinding tip to enlarge opening and smooth burs and sharp edges.

2. Cut to length, three strands of "twisted pair" speaker wire.

3. Stripped off approximately 30" length of outer sheathing (which was harder than I imagined) of the speaker wire.

4. I then used heat shrink tubing to color code each individual wire. Red for both tweeter wires, yellow for both mid-range wires and blue for both mid-bass wires.

5. I also used heat shrink tubing to color code the opposite end of each strand. This time I only used one tube, because the outer sheathing of each strand was still in tact. 

6. The idea is to be able to easily identify each strand at the amplifier. THANK GOODNESS, the twisted pair of each strand are double sheathed with unique colors (blue and clear). Otherwise I would have to have not 6 colors of heat shrink tubing....but 12!

7. Then I fitted the rubber grommet (1 1/8" O.D.) to the larger hole located at the interior footwell sidewall.

8. I then grouped all six wires together and used a larger piece of heat shrink to temporarily bind them together in the thinnest possible cross section.









9. I used a 8" black zip tie to feed through from the outside door jam into the cab.

10. I used electrical tape and attached the grouped speaker wire to the end of the zip tie.

11. Because of the REALLY tight fit through the outer wall, I chose NOT to install the second rubber grommet YET.

12. Heat shrinking the six wires together proved to be a VERY good idea. They came through both walls of metal with ease.

13. I now took the six individual strands of wire and used a damp sponge to lubricate them with water....just damp!

14. I took the smaller, rubber grommet to go onto the outer cabin wall inside the door jamb area and slid it over the grouped wires. Again..the heat shrink tubing at the tip made this an easy process.

Next comes the point of entry into the door itself.

1. I chose my point of entry to be within the OEM rubber boot gasket found at the door jamb. I drilled a pilot hole near the top of the gasket. There is enough room to do this. After the pilot hole was drilled....I used my dremel (with metal grinder pointed tip still attached) to "burn" a 1/8" hole in the gasket. This allows a larger hole to pass the wires through, while at the same time "hopefully" keeps the rubber from spitting further in the future. You DO NOT want to split the rubber in a lonear fashion, for example, with a knife. This WILL allow continuance of the cut in the future.

2. Next I pulled the grouped wires through the rubber boot. Again...the heat shrink tubing of all six wires made this easy.

Here is a REALLY crappy photo of the passenger side door with the wires pulled through all points of exit and entry. This photo was taken as the sun was going down so low lighting makes it even harder to see. Also, I still have not put into place the rubber grommet at the cabin wall, wrapped the wires with techflex, loom and taped them at the time of this photo. I will get a better photo tomorrow.










3. Next I wrapped the bare wires with techflex, then wrapped in loom and fully tapped the entire assembly with electrical tape.

Done for the day. Tomorrow....repeat process on drivers side door.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Today I had a better heat gun than yesterday. Man the heat shrink tubing reacted SO much fasster today. Made yesterdays heat gun seem like a hair dryer!

2. This whole process, while not over, has taken a LONG LONG time. But I have been very slow. These holes are dangerously close to the OEM molex. I am just trying to make sure I survive with no damage to the OEM wiring. So far so good.

*Next Tasks*
1. Repeat todays process again, on the drivers side door.
2. Remove all seats and center console and carpet.
3. Run wires toward center console, then down center of truck and connect to amps.
4. Install mid bass and tweeters (no sound deadening until summer).
5. Run RCA's from amps to point where signal processor will be located.
6. Solder all 4 ga. wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
7. Route 1/0 ga. power and ground wires around amp board.
8. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
9. Bit One scheduled to be in my hands on Tuesday 2/17.
10. Install Bit One.
11. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## ARCuhTEK

Sorry that the above post is so long....

But while I am at it, i thought it important to note that neither of the front doors were removed during this process.

When I get my better photographs up here, the point of entry and exit will be much more clear.


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## Low_e_Red

I thought I warned you about making the entry into the door lower than the cab. Helps prevent water to leak into the vehicle. It happens even with grommets.


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## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> I thought I warned you about making the entry into the door lower than the cab. Helps prevent water to leak into the vehicle. It happens even with grommets.


There was no *warning* in your statement. I took it as a _suggestion_, not a call out of a known problem. You did not mention leakage as the reason why. Though I admit I did not ask why. I just thought it was a different way than what I was intending.

The good news is that I will do the drivers door tomorrow. I will do it the way you suggest. I have no real preference. There is the same exact amount of room in the gasket above and below the OEM wiring bundle.

Either way, what you cannot see in my install is the loom going through the interior grommet. I fully realize, because I have extensive experience with flashing procedures, how water works. I admit I was not thinking about water in terms of flashing because of the tendency for water to run along the wire pathway.

Thanks for the red flag.

Since I have not connected any wires, it will be easy for me to undo the loom, tape and techflex and take the lower pathway to the door jamb gasket.

I can use a rubber seal kit to re-seal my current hole, and thank goodness I only penetrated it with a tiny hole (thank goodness rubber stretches!)


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## ARCuhTEK

*Day 15
*
Day 15 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 48*

*Work done today:*
1. I finally feel like I am getting somewhere. Today I completed all the wiring for both front doors. I got everything taped, loomed, retaped, sealed and put back into place. I did not install front door speakers, because I want to take my time and make precise suts in the door panels when I am fresh as a daisy.

2. I ran all speaker wire down the center of the truck floor (under the center console) and to the rear wall at the amp board. I did nto connect any wiring to the amps.

3. I vaccumed the truck carpet and metal floor pan and then re-installed all OEM kick panels, door panels, speakers, carpet and center console.

4. I ran my single set of RCAQ cables from the rear amp wall up the center of the truck floor to the HU area. I did nto remove the HU, because I have several modifications (five to be exact) to the HU or in the sane vicinty as the HU. I need a lot of time to do these things so I dared not even open that can of works today. The five items are:

a. Tap into OEM rear back up camera and run single to my AVIC-D3 so the single will show on the main screen when I put transmission into reverse.

b. Tap into AVIC-D3 speaker wires to create a center channel for my new center channel speaker located in my overhead rail system.

c. Tap into the fuse panel for a power lead to hard wire my radar detector.

d. Run my iPod controller cable from HU to center console.

e. Run my iPod video cable from the AVIC-D3 auxiliary input #2 to the center console.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Not many surprises today. Smooth as butter....
*
Next Tasks*
1. Connect speaker wires to amps.
2. Install door speakers.
3. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
4. Solder all 4 ga. power wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
5. Route 1/0 ga. power and ground wires around amp board.
6. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
7. Finish front door speaker install.
8. Bit One scheduled to be in my hands on Tuesday 2/17.
9. Fire up my system for the first time!


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## ARCuhTEK

Finally....photos!

Here is the current status of the amp board. *Note the center of the amp board. The previous photos show the amp board BEFORE the additional panel of MDF was applied over the window motor. I like the way this turned out because it makes use of that area very well, by being able to place the distribution blocks here. My favorite part is that this is directly behind the rear seat backrest, where the arm rest is located. I am taking my backrest to an upholstery shop and having the rear valence fabric that covers up the hole behind the armrest, made to be able to fold it down while the seat is still in place. This allows me to check fuses without having to remove the whole goshdarn seat! Worked out well as far as I am concerned.*

















Exit point of speaker wire route at the passenger side footwell side wall. Note the main fuse panel moved aside and a few harnesses unplugged (this caused my fuel pump to be shut off).










Passenger side speaker wires fed through new opening (with new rubber grommet) at exit point at footwell sidewall.










Exit point for drivers side speaker wire route at drivers side footwell sidewall (immediately above hood release)










Speaker wires taped and fed through exit point on drivers side footwell sidewall (with new rubber grommet). not I did quiet a good job of scratching the paint with my sandpaper and dremel when trying to smooth the metal burs off the new cut. Thank goodness all of this is hidden behind OEM panels.










The final product....as good as I know how to get it. The drivers side speaker wires, taped, loomed and retaped. You can clearly see the pathway from the cabin to the drivers side door jamb with the point of entry being the top of the OEM rubber gasket. The passenger side looks identical.










Drivers side cleaned (kinda) and buttoned back up. Ready to drive.



















Passenger side cleaned (kinda) and buttoned back up. Ready to drive.


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## mxl16

Nice work on the amp rack. It's always satisfying to make seemingly unusable space.....usable. lol. 

I'm getting excited to do my frontier build! It has to get a little warmer though.


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## McMan

Looking good there Kevin the 2 new amps fit in better than the 2 Mc's! migt be a tip for you, when i run speaker cables in tight to pull through places i spray some WD40 on the gromets and cable if needed! 
Keep the good work up and cabeling is coming on very neat with you.

Keep the pics coming.

ATB.


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## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Finally....photos!
> 
> Here is the current status of the amp board. *Note the center of the amp board. The previous photos show the amp board BEFORE the additional panel of MDF was applied over the window motor. I like the way this turned out because it makes use of that area very well, by being able to place the distribution blocks here. My favorite part is that this is directly behind the rear seat backrest, where the arm rest is located. I am taking my backrest to an upholstery shop and having the rear valence fabric that covers up the hole behind the armrest, made to be able to fold it down while the seat is still in place. This allows me to check fuses without having to remove the whole goshdarn seat! Worked out well as far as I am concerned.*
> 
> 
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> 
> Exit point of speaker wire route at the passenger side footwell side wall. Note the main fuse panel moved aside and a few harnesses unplugged (this caused my fuel pump to be shut off).
> 
> 
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> 
> Passenger side speaker wires fed through new opening (with new rubber grommet) at exit point at footwell sidewall.
> 
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> Exit point for drivers side speaker wire route at drivers side footwell sidewall (immediately above hood release)
> 
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> 
> Speaker wires taped and fed through exit point on drivers side footwell sidewall (with new rubber grommet). not I did quiet a good job of scratching the paint with my sandpaper and dremel when trying to smooth the metal burs off the new cut. Thank goodness all of this is hidden behind OEM panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final product....as good as I know how to get it. The drivers side speaker wires, taped, loomed and retaped. You can clearly see the pathway from the cabin to the drivers side door jamb with the point of entry being the top of the OEM rubber gasket. The passenger side looks identical.
> 
> 
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> Drivers side cleaned (kinda) and buttoned back up. Ready to drive.
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> Passenger side cleaned (kinda) and buttoned back up. Ready to drive.





Kevin, what did you end up using to hold down the power wire? They look great.

And great work running your speaker wire. I look forward to the speaker install.


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## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Kevin, what did you end up using to hold down the power wire? They look great.
> 
> And great work running your speaker wire. I look forward to the speaker install.


I purchased the black plastic clamps from Parts Express you recommended (thanks). I have not done that step yet, because I am going to fully test the system(simple test), before I solder the wires at each end. Once I solder them, I will replace the temporary zip tie mounts with the clamps you recommended.

I must have chosen the wrong size screw, even for the temporary zip tie mounts, because in several cases, my screw slipped right through the center hole of the mount, causing it to fall off the board.

Speaking of speaker install....
I had my K2Ps up for sale but am going to have to end up using them (for now) because my Legatia L6's will not fit without heavy modification. I knew they were larger than a typical 6.5" but hell fire damnation....the BASKET will not even fit my 5x6 ----> 6 1/2" adapter plate center hole!

Speakers (sans sound mat) are next. Then HU mods.


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## mSaLL150

So if I understand correctly you are trying to fit the mids into an adapter plate that you will mount to that stock plastic 5x7 holder?


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## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> So if I understand correctly you are trying to fit the mids into an adapter plate that you will mount to that stock plastic 5x7 holder?


I have two plans for the doors. The short, winter time (damn its cold, quickie route) and the Summer time...take your time, do it correctly route.

For now , I am going to put the K2P into my custom aluminum adapter plate and mount the adapter plate to the stock opening.

Come warm weather, I will take the door panels off, sound mat the doors and panels, make custom baffles for the Legatia L6's. I will also install some Luxury Liner Pro.


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## mooch91

ARCuhTEK said:


> *Day 9*
> 
> 2. Installed residential soffitt vent into sound mat where OEM vent was located (but previously covered with sound mat by me).


I only needed to cover one of the two vents in my F350 so I never got the whistling noise you described, but I never liked just slapping the deadener over it. On the back (outside) side, the adhesive is picking up a ton of dirt, and I've never been convinced that it hasn't or won't leak. I've never been able to find something to adequately cover the opening before sealing with the deadener. Anyone else reading the thread have any ideas for plugging the vent opening before sealing with deadener?

Install looks nice!


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## Melodic Acoustic

Whatz up ARCuhTEK, 

I haven't read through entire post, so I not sure if you list somewhere you sub plans, but as you request in the Bit One post here are my sub system plans.

First here is a diagram of my system plans










The subs in question are the rare Alto Mobile Falstaffs. These are in my top 3 of best sounding sub I have ever listen to and owned. The are a very close cousin of the Evolution Audio Aliante as they had the same designer.

mac audio: Aliante 12 Black Ltd

I have the A6 because its designed for subwoofer duties and is Class AB and makes the right amount of power I need at 2 ohms for my subwoofer system.

Notice you said you can only fit a 10" sub in your available space. I sold every 10 and 12 Falstaff the importer had in stock. He now only have the 8's I will tell you this little sub is a beast, fast, clean and tight with great output for an 8 (to my surprise)

Here is a few pictures of the 8" and spec sheet. Each Falstaff was individual tested.














































I just installed on of the these in a 15 passenger Van in a .32 sealed enclosure for one of customers son's basketball team with one of Alto's 250m Fullrange class D amps making 250 watts rms x 1 at 4, 8, 16, or 32 ohms and it had everyone looking for the subs in the van. Then I showed them the little box under the middle seat next to the wall and they could believe a sub in a box so small was make that kind of bass. 

Now don't get me wrong, it wasn't shaking the van or anything like that, but you could feel the bass anywhere you set in the van. And it sounded great fast, clean and tight. I was able to get it to bottom out with some bass heavy track and turning up the volume some, but for sound Q it is great. Any you can use them in .25 cubes it need. The 12 sounds best in .75 sealed.

Hope this helps and any more question feel free to ask.


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## ARCuhTEK

Mooch. I used another layer of deadener on the backside of the vent. Let me clarify. I did not apply it from the backside. I made a template of the raw opening. Cut out that shape from a piece of sound deadener. Took a full sheet of sound deadener, with backing still on it....placed it on the wall and pushed the sound deadener into the hole. Leaving an impression on the mat.

I then cut just the backing off the large piece. Removed backing off of the original piece made of just the vent shape, flipped it over and stuck it to the large piece so that the aluminum side was fasing the bed of the truck. I then removed the remainder of the backing from the large piece of mat. As you might imagine, I pushed the portion of the mat with two layers of sound mat on it, into the vent first, then proceeded to adhere the remainder of the mat onto the interior rear wall surface.

Is this proper flashing to keep water out? No. But it was so tight in that hole, I am willing to bet it will not leak for a while.....as in at least two years.

This method will keep all dirt and debris off the sound mat, thereby preventing it from prematurely peeling at the edges of the vent due to poor adhesion.

So if you can leave one hole sealed, I like this method, as it is the best i can think of for now. Other suggestions are welcomed.

When I cut out the mat to reveal the original hole, I have some thinking to do..... I may have to order a new OEM vent. I destroyed mine taking it out.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I Come,

My plan is one page one of the install thread, and it needs to be updated with my final amp selection. Here is a re-post of the plan diagram. I am going to review your post more carefully now.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come,

Wow what a system. What vehicle is that going into? You have really thought your components through and that is a LOT of amps.

On a different note, your graphics of the amps and Bit One are pretty cool. Are those photographs? I searched for photos of my equipment but ended up having to actually create them in my software program. Where did you get your equipment images? Nice!


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Here-I-Come,
> 
> Wow what a system. What vehicle is that going into? You have really thought your components through and that is a LOT of amps.
> 
> On a different note, your graphics of the amps and Bit One are pretty cool. Are those photographs? I searched for photos of my equipment but ended up having to actually create them in my software program. Where did you get your equipment images? Nice!


Thanks, I have been through so much equipment over the years, by buying things I truly didn't want and change before I could try them, because I want something else in the first place. This time I said I'm going to buy just what I want no butts about it. To be able to compete at the level I want to, I need top notch products. So the search was on to found and buy what I wanted.

Well the vehicle is a 1995 2Dr Jeep Cherokee. Why the Jeep, some ask. For one I have always loved them. I have owned 4 over the years, man I miss my 4x4 91 5 speed 2dr, that thing would go anywhere. Parts are cheap and I can work on it myself and the the 4.0 in-line 6 is a great engine and runs forever if maintained a little.

But as a comp car, it is just a box inside, its easy to take apart, As I will be doing a complete rebuild of the entire interior. The Kicks are about 5.5" out pass the windshield at the deepest point and when the dash is remove there is a space under where the wipers are that runs from one side to the other and turns under the A pillars, that is about 6" high and 5" deep. This will allow me to mount my Tweets and midranges out pass the windshield also, with the midbasses mounted in the kicks. 

The path-length difference for the midbasses is around 3.5-4" from side to side and for the tweets and midranges its about 4" and thats without me cutting away a little more metal. So its a pretty good vehicle for speaker placement. Getting the Tweeters and midranges up high help me over come the problem vehicles likes this have. The F'ing high A** transmission hump.

Not sure where I going to mount the subs yet, but I shooting for under the front seats. As the rear bench seat will be removed and replace with the bucket seats from the front and the front seats are being replaced with 04 Infiniti G35 coupe power seats. So a custom center console will be built from the dash back to the rear. The console will house some the the equipment like the Bit One, Carputer, Head Unit and Bit One Controller. I could go on for ever, but I know you tried of I high-jacking you thread.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Oh ya, they are photos in the diagram. I have so many photos I have collected over the years. Most I found and remove everything else from the photo and save the picture of the product. Its a little time consuming.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I dont mind a little thread jacking! I need to figure out exact what the Bit One controller does and where I will mount it in the truck. I intended only to use the laptop connection....so more reading required.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I dont mind a little thread jacking! I need to figure out exact what the Bit One controller does and where I will mount it in the truck. I intended only to use the laptop connection....so more reading required.



Well in you case it looks like you will be using you analog inputs so it can be used to recall your presets quickly.


I my case I'm using the optical input and my Head/Transport volume control is bypassed. I will be using it as the Master Volume Control for the system and to recall my different preset quickly.


----------



## mooch91

ARCuhTEK said:


> Mooch. I used another layer of deadener on the backside of the vent. Let me clarify. I did not apply it from the backside. I made a template of the raw opening. Cut out that shape from a piece of sound deadener. Took a full sheet of sound deadener, with backing still on it....placed it on the wall and pushed the sound deadener into the hole. Leaving an impression on the mat.
> 
> I then cut just the backing off the large piece. Removed backing off of the original piece made of just the vent shape, flipped it over and stuck it to the large piece so that the aluminum side was fasing the bed of the truck. I then removed the remainder of the backing from the large piece of mat. As you might imagine, I pushed the portion of the mat with two layers of sound mat on it, into the vent first, then proceeded to adhere the remainder of the mat onto the interior rear wall surface.
> 
> Is this proper flashing to keep water out? No. But it was so tight in that hole, I am willing to bet it will not leak for a while.....as in at least two years.
> 
> This method will keep all dirt and debris off the sound mat, thereby preventing it from prematurely peeling at the edges of the vent due to poor adhesion.
> 
> So if you can leave one hole sealed, I like this method, as it is the best i can think of for now. Other suggestions are welcomed.
> 
> When I cut out the mat to reveal the original hole, I have some thinking to do..... I may have to order a new OEM vent. I destroyed mine taking it out.


I really wanted to adhere something over the back side of the hole, but it's hard to work from the inside of the cab (as you apparently found out when you tried to take it out). 

For the Superdutys, a number of folks have been reversing the vent since it's much shallower on the other side. When I looked at it, it didn't make too much sense. Sure it might seal the edges of the opening, but the flappers are one-way, so the vent would be working to let air in the cab rather than out. Plus, reversing it actually generates a little trough on the outside the looks like it would divert water right back in to the cab. Not good.

Your idea at least sounds like an improvement over what I've got. At a minimum, I might consider sandwiching something rigid (aluminum flashing, ABS) between the layers of deadener covering the hole so it did not accidentally puncture.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 16*

Day 16 hours: 1
*Total build hours: 49*

*Work done today:*
1. Made a three ring binder which contains all of my Owners Manuals and various specifications for each piece of equipment in my system.......hey...it was COLD today! LOL Hopefully having all of the information in one location will help when it comes to tweaking and tuning!










*Surprises along the way:*
1. THe Pioneer AVIC-D3 Om is 213 freaking pages long....ALL in English! WOW. WTF?!

*Next Tasks:*
1. Connect speaker wires to amps.
2. Install door speakers.
3. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
4. Solder all 4 ga. power wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
5. Route 1/0 ga. power and ground wires around amp board.
6. Solder ends of both the power and the ground wire.
7. Finish front door speaker install.
8. Bit One scheduled to be in my hands on Tuesday 2/17.
9. Fire up my system for the first time!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

McMan said:


> Looking good there Kevin the 2 new amps fit in better than the 2 Mc's! migt be a tip for you, when i run speaker cables in tight to pull through places i spray some WD40 on the gromets and cable if needed!
> Keep the good work up and cabeling is coming on very neat with you.
> 
> Keep the pics coming.
> 
> ATB.


Paul. I was afraid to use chemicals on the out sheathing, so I used a Kitchen sponge which was damp with water. Notice I said damp, not wet. It worked well.

Yes the MACS were monsters....and I miss them dearly.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Paul. I was afraid to use chemicals on the out sheathing, so I used a Kitchen sponge which was damp with water. Notice I said damp, not wet. It worked well.
> 
> Yes the MACS were monsters....and I miss them dearly.


liquid dish soap+ water makes a hell of a good lube and is safe on rubber and plastics. i use it all the time when i pull shear protection , tape switch [rubber on rubber] on my jobs.


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## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> liquid dish soap+ water makes a hell of a good lube and is safe on rubber and plastics. i use it all the time when i pull shear protection , tape switch [rubber on rubber] on my jobs.


If I would have had any trouble beyond just the water, some palmolive would have been next..lol!!


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## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> If I would have had any trouble beyond just the water, some palmolive would have been next..lol!!


....it's soft on the hands...:laugh:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I hear Jergens works too.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 17*

Day 17 hours: 6
*Total build hours: 55*

*Work done today:*
1. There were two of us hard at work today, each had 3 hours, so I added 6 total to the build time.

2. Grady installed my fuse block for my 1/0 ga. wire at the battery, plus tecflex, and secured it all. All that is left is to put it to the post.

3. I completed all the mock up wiring for all three amps, including all speaker wiring and RCA's. This did not include the Bit One signal processor. That is next.

4. Completed the 1/0 ga. ground wire at the amp board (did nto plug it into the distro block, just for safety for now. She is good to go.

5. Spent a lof of time reading my owners manual, over some wiring issues, that I still do am not sure I have wired correctly. Will start new thread on exactly how to bridge two mid-bass drivers from a four channel Audison 300.4 amp on this forum and link it here..


*Surprises along the way:*
1. Grady had a hell of a hard time with Knukonceptz 1/0 ga. fuseblock. It is a very difficult design in that if the fuse blows, you have to spend a lot of time just to get to the fuse.

2. See number 5 above. I am confused about "if" I have correctly wired my Audison Lrx 400.3 to brige four channles into two, in order to run a left mid-bass and a right mid-bass. The way the amp is designed with Channel "A" and channel "B" and a Left and Right for each one...plus yo only use the right channels if you bridge....etc.. It just confusing to this newbie.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Drill holes in amp board to thread throgh positive and ground 1/0 ga from backside.
2. Install door speakers.
3. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
4. Solder all 4 ga. power wires at each end, for a total of 16 soldered ends.
5. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
6. Solder ends of power wire.
7. Fire up my system for the first time! 
9. Big 3 upgrade.
9. Upgrade battery.
10. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
11. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> *Day 17*
> I am confused about "if" I have correctly wired my Audison Lrx 400.3 to brige four channles into two, in order to run a left mid-bass and a right mid-bass. The way the amp is designed with Channel "A" and channel "B" and a Left and Right for each one...plus yo only use the right channels if you bridge....etc.. It just confusing to this newbie.


i too wasn't very impressed with the audison manual's lack of details, when it comes to wiring it in bi-mono[bridged] mode. got any pics...i'm curious to see if we both did it the same way...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> i too wasn't very impressed with the audison manual's lack of details, when it comes to wiring it in bi-mono[bridged] mode. got any pics...i'm curious to see if we both did it the same way...


Will post my diagram of it tomorrow. Was your method successful? I have not powered my system up yet.


----------



## braves6117

It took me some time as well to understand bridging. If memory serves me correct, you utilize the left two positive terminals and the right two negative terminals. The inner two (channel B right next to each side of the rca inputs) are closer together, the other are far away,

Here's a crappy example of the speaker wires....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> It took me some time as well to understand bridging. If memory serves me correct, you utilize the left two positive terminals and the right two negative terminals. The inner two (channel B right next to each side of the rca inputs) are closer together, the other are far away,


That is correct according to what I read into it....but
If doing this, do you need 4 RCAs in....L/R for A channel and L/R for B? I read it as you only need two RCAs in....utilizing both "R" sides of each the A and B channels.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> That is correct according to what I read into it....but
> If doing this, do you need 4 RCAs in....L/R for A channel and L/R for B? I read it as you only need two RCAs in....utilizing both "R" sides of each the A and B channels.



That's right. You only need the bottom two RCA's as input, or, the bottom one for L1 and L2...


----------



## m3gunner

Yep... you're right about the inputs... only two both of which are on the "right" input.

The speaker terminals are way more nebulous as it appears that on the left terminal, both terminals are marked (+) and on the right, both are marked as (-). Weird... which is the positive and which is the negative... Ahhh... I've got it. Pay attention to the white outlined indicators... and check out page 18 in the manual. Looks like the bridge of "channel A" (or what we might call "front") bridges from the top left outer terminal (+) to the bottom right outer terminal (-) and channel B bridges to the top left inner terminal (+) to the bottom right inner terminal (-). 

It actually makes sense if you pay attention to the white block markings on the amp (for Ch. A and Ch. B) and the markings for positive and negative on the terminals themselves (I'm using the manual and my 4.300 to figure this out).

Hope this helps. Nice work, Kevin...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

From what I am reading from everyone, we are all on the same page.

Here are some graphics I made:

1. Just an explanation of the "A" channels and " B" channels on the amp. To me it is just downright silly how they have this set up....but every mfr. does it differently I suppose.









My diagram may be more confusing that no attempt at all.....but I thought I would try to show how I understand it to be set up basically. This shows no wring..just the A/B parings and relationships to left side and right side.

It is so criss crossed...its stupid.


----------



## braves6117

That's correct^^^

It's the same way for the VRx4.300 as well. Channel A really sucks when you separate your speaker wire into a big split end, just doesn't look right to the eye.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Will post my diagram of it tomorrow. Was your method successful? I have not powered my system up yet.


i am far from powering up..... it's the coldest month of the year and i dont have a garage to work in. when the snow melts and the srt-4[not mine] comes out of winter storage , things will move on very quickly.


----------



## IBcivic

braves6117 said:


> It took me some time as well to understand bridging. If memory serves me correct, you utilize the left two positive terminals and the right two negative terminals. The inner two (channel B right next to each side of the rca inputs) are closer together, the other are far away,
> 
> Here's a crappy example of the speaker wires....


 looks like i figured it out.... it's good to have knowledgable lrx4300 veteren support...thanx guys
and i do agree that having the wires do the splits , like that, does not look too sexy, that probably explains why the newer audison amps have the terminals hidden underneath the trim covers.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am far from veteran....have not even gotten passed the wiring portion of the manual. Need to read up on other controls, but since I am controlling this with a Bit One signal processor, I basically need to turn most controls off or flat, except for gain (at least to START tweaking and tuning).

Here is the wiring i have set up and the output expected.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am far from veteran....have not even gotten passed the wiring portion of the manual. Need to read up on other controls, but since I am controlling this with a Bit One signal processor, I basically need to turn most controls off or flat, except for gain (at least to START tweaking and tuning).
> 
> Here is the wiring i have set up and the output expected.


veteren 4300 owners..., meaning braves & gunner..... i'm still @ larval stage ,compared to the average diyma'er


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Ditto on larva!! LOL Good one.


----------



## braves6117

lol It's so funny seeing you go through the same thing with the Audison as I have...

It took me ages to figure out the Audison controls and what to depress!! But once you learn an Audison, everything is easy means after!!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> lol It's so funny seeing you go through the same thing with the Audison as I have...
> 
> It took me ages to figure out the Audison controls and what to depress!! But once you learn an Audison, everything is easy means after!!


I am sure the controls are soon in coming. Well as soon as the power button hits. I will learn as much as I can ahead of time, but then nothing replaces hands on.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

My wife looked at that diagram and asked if I was doing heart surgery...lol


----------



## 8675309

Lookin good. I am ready to get my audison amps and bitone installed. For now I am just lookin at them in the corner of my room.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> That's correct^^^
> 
> It's the same way for the VRx4.300 as well. Channel A really sucks when you separate your speaker wire into a big split end, just doesn't look right to the eye.


I have to say I had my speaker wire sheathing and routing all figured out to the amp. I did not expect that I would have to strip off as much sheathing from the twisted pair as I did in order to have the positive on side side of the amp and the negative on the other. I too, do not like the look on my clean amp board.

But you just gotta do it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 18
*
Day 18 hours: 1
*Total build hours: 56*
*
Work done today:*
1. Just doing some soldering and replacing temporary clips with better, more secure (permanent) clips on the amp board.

2. Completed 1/0 ga. ground wire (but did not connect).
*
Surprises along the way:*
1. I wanted both my power and ground wires to run behind the amp board, then penetrate through just below the distribution blocks. This was mostly to keep the power wires as far separated from the speaker wires as possible. Unfortuantely the lack of flexibility will not allow the design as I had planned. So the power and ground will trace along the front of the amp board and actually cross over the speaker wires. Exactly what I didnt want.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Finish installing permanent clamps to each wire on amp board.
2. Install door speakers.
3. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
4. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
5. Solder ends of power wire.
6. Fire up my system for the first time!
7. Big 3 upgrade.
8. Upgrade battery.
9. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
10. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 19*

Day 19 hours: 3
*Total build hours: 59*

*Work done today:*
1. Finished replacing all temporary wire clamps (power/gd. wire only) on my amp board with permanent clamps. This resulted in tighter radii for my power/gd. wires and shorter distances from the distribution blocks to the amps (shorter is always good).

2. My friend installed a two way speaker set up in my drivers side front door (stock locations). As planned....no sound deadener or luxury liner pro was used. This will be postponed until summer. Plus this gives me a good chance to be able to get a good audition so I can definitely hear the difference when the deadener does get install.

*Surprises along the way:*
1.Was surprised at the fact that the door panels had to come off to gain access to the OEM tweeters.
*
Next Tasks:*
1. Install door speakers at passenger side door.
2. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
3. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
4. Solder end of power wire.
5. Install sub in enclosure box (with adapter plate).
6. Fire up my system for the first time!
7. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
7. RTA and full tweak and tune.
9. Big 3 upgrade.
10. Upgrade battery.
11. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
12. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## m3gunner

Honestly, I didn't own an Audison amp until about two weeks ago. I'm just very good (from the old school) when reading wiring diagrams... or maybe just old. 




stinky06 said:


> veteren 4300 owners..., meaning braves & gunner..... i'm still @ larval stage ,compared to the average diyma'er


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 20
*
Day 20 hours: 2
*Total build hours: 61*

*
Work done today:*

1. My friend installed a two way speaker set up in my passengers side front door (stock locations). As planned....no sound deadener or luxury liner pro was used. This will be postponed until summer. Plus this gives me a good chance to be able to get a good audition so I can definitely hear the difference when the deadener does get install.
*
Surprises along the way:*
1.Luckily none today.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Perform five modifications to HU as stated above.
2. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
3. Solder end of power wire.
4. Install sub in enclosure box (with adapter plate).
5. Fire up my system for the first time!
6. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
7. RTA and full tweak and tune.
8. Big 3 upgrade.
9. Upgrade battery.
10. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
11. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## IBcivic

m3gunner said:


> Honestly, I didn't own an Audison amp until about two weeks ago. I'm just very good (from the old school) when reading wiring diagrams... or maybe just old.


it's just the lack of details in the instructions that worried me... just needed to be re-assured. i am always paranoid about powering up and seeing a little puff of white smoke .:laugh:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I too think the Audison manuals lack details.

So can someone help me here....

When I am ready to fire this sucker up....do I need to put my amps on certain settings to "start my tuning"? Keep in mind, I have a signal processor, which I can set all output via laptop. So xos, slopes, etc will be set via laptop.

I assume...gains way down...but I have subsonic filters, hp filters...lp....you name it.

Essentially my vision is that the amps will do nothing but amplify the exact signal I send to each of them (each channel actually) and send it directly to the desired speaker. Here is what I am thinking per channel:

*All of the Below will go from HU to Bit One Signal Processor to 1 Audison Lrx 300.4*

Channel 1: Front Right Tweeter (65w)
Channel 2: Front Left Tweeter (65w)
Channel 3: Front Right Mid-Range (65 w)
Channel 4: Front Left Mid-Range (65w)
*Total (260 w)*


*All of the Below will go from HU to Bit One Signal Processor to 1 Audison Lrx 300.4 using Bi-Mono Bridging of four channels down to two.*

Channel 5: Front Right Mid-Bass (210w)
Channel 6: Front Left Mid-Bass (210w)
*Total: (440 w)*

Channel 7: unused

*All of the Below will go from HU to Bit One Signal Processor to 1 DLS A5 Mono Sub Amp*

Channel 8: Subwoofer (one 10" sealed) (500w)
*Subtotal: (500 w)*

*Total watts: 1200w*

So....is there anything special I need to do to the amp controls?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well it has been a while since I posted photos so here are a few.....

Now before I posted them, I know what you will think....wow, it looks mostly like the last photos he posted. Which is true. But I warned you that I am slow, intentionally, because this is my first build.

The current status is....its time to install the signal processor. So all the loose wiring you see in these photographs are temporary, meaning I will install the signal processor, and make all the final connections. If all is well, I will then stop and re-cut the wire to length, heat shrink where necessary, tidy up the wiring paths, and clamp them down. 

The power and ground wires are done, except actual final connection (ready....just have not screwed them in).

Once the wires are tightened up, its time to reinstall my interior. (except the backrest/backseat).

After that, its time for RTA and tuning.

After that, ......then the back seat is reinstalled and its time to enjoy a summer full of music.

Here are the pics (you have waited long enough).



















Ground wire temporary tucked away from the trucks metal:


----------



## 8675309

I would rather be slow over half assed fast


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Part of it is that I am calculated, and part is that I had to get out a new project on a deadline that ended today. So now that that is over....I have more free time, I think maybe for a few days. So this week (including this weekend) I should get some good "q" time in with my build. I am getting more excited!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

For anyone who wants to see an F150 door panel here are a few shots of the passenger side door panel:










Legatia LV1Pro installed.









I still believe I can get a 3" midrange and a 1" tweeter in this sail panel AND still keep the factory duct in place.



















Untouched factory door with panel removed:









I swear if I could fabricate a nice OEM looking grille/cover....there is room to put one or two 8" midbass in this opening (pending depth of course). For scale, look at the left of the photo and see the 5x7 adapter plate.


----------



## McMan

Nice work there Kevin cableing and everything looks neat and well secured!
If you want to get comps in the door i am sure you are the man to do it, as i always say " measure twice and cut once" beter to take your time than just throw an instal in!

Keep it up


----------



## ARCuhTEK

You know, sometimes you look at things like this and just say.....what the heck took me 61 hours to get to this point!!

I guess I will have to go back and re-read my thread to figure it out all over again! LOL


----------



## Low_e_Red

I told you Id make some FBG panels for your 3way setup. And I could have them done fairly soon.

Oh and as far as figuring out how to set gains etc. Heres the link http://www.f150online.com/forums/amplifiers/317740-amp-set-lp-ap-hp.html, If you have any questions about it let me know.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> I told you Id make some FBG panels for your 3way setup. And I could have them done fairly soon.
> 
> Oh and as far as figuring out how to set gains etc. Heres the link Amp set to LP AP or HP - F150online Forums, If you have any questions about it let me know.


I am not sure I want fiberglass panels. Well I am not sure what I want. This is my first install, so I want to hear it first. This summer will be for taking the system to the next level (going from 2 way to 3 way, door sound mat, and trying out all my subs, mids and tweets). I do appreciate your help. I just want to get out from under the engine and take her for a drive in the next few weeks.


----------



## Low_e_Red

I completely understand.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 21*

Day 21 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 65*


Started doing the modifications on my head unit (pioneer AVIC-D3). The modifications to be done at this stage are:

1. Bypass Hack (allows full functionality of all features of the HU even while the vehicle is in motion).

2. Rear View Camera mod (connect camera to "camera" input which comes on when truck is put into reverse gear AND also connect camera to "auxillury input 1" so that I can view the rear view camera at any time by selecting "AV-1" on the HU.

3. Connect Ipod Touch to the HU with Ipod Cable CD-1200 (allows iPod control directly on touch screen of HU without the need to have the iPod in your hand (can be stowed away).

4. Connect a second iPod cabe (adapter from iPod "connector" to RCA style input jacks). This allows the iPod to send video to the HU when the RCA's are connected to the AV-1 input.

5.Connect a single 3 1/2" speaker to HU for the purposes of having a quasi center channel during cell phone calls only. This will require a toggle switch also.

6. Connect remote wire (12v line to Bit One signal processor).

7.. Hard wire for Escort 9500i radar detector.

8. Install two "Y-splitters" to allow two different sources to input into AV-1 input (iPod and Reverse Camera).

9. Connect RCA cables that will be the signal input to the Bit One signal processor.

*Work done today:*

1. I had to make a run to Radio Shack to get some connectors and a toggle switch.

2. Removed HU from dash.

3. Got both Ipod cables installed and tested.

4. Got the reverse camera tie in, mostly complete.

5. Installed Y-Splitters.

Then my battery died! Even though I had to disconnect the ground side of the battery to do some wiring tie ins, most of todays work was able to be done with the battery connected. So I was listening to some tunes, and also had my interior lights on....and lost track of time. Dead battery.

So I will charge the battery tomorrow and start again.

Surprises along the way:
1. Surprised how fast the battery went dead! LOL

*Next Tasks:*
1. Fix Vent issue at rear wall.
2. Put down about 5 sheets of Damplifier Pro on rear floor (this is so that if I ever decide to completely cover the entrie floor, I never have to remove that gamed rear seat again!
3. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
4. Solder end of power wire.
5. Install sub in enclosure box.
6. Fire up my system for the first time!
7. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
8. Reinstall all interior trim.
9. RTA and full tweak and tune.
10. Big 3 upgrade.
11. Upgrade battery.
12. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
13. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 22*

Day 22 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 69*

*Total number of days which have passed since build started: 44*


Continued on HU modifications from yesterday.

*Work done today:*

1. Charged the battery. Got the truck started again. No issues.

2. Completed hard wiring of Escort Radar detector.

3. Removed the Reverse Camera wiring tap in connection done yesterday and re-wired it today. I did not like the quality of the connection from yesterday. Applied heat shrink to all connections.

4. Did research on a "video extension lead" which came with my HU, but I do not currently have in my possession. ( I did not do the original Hu install ....the dealer had it installed locally, at a professional audio shop, but I was not given any "extra accessories" when i picked the truck up for the first time.

5. Ordered missing extension cable online.

4. Ran the speaker cable for my center channel "cell phone" speaker (did not finish connecting it).

5. Reinstalled a-pillar trim.

Does not seem like a lot....

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Surprised how difficult it was to run my radar detector hard wire along the top of the headliner, near the rear view mirror. First five feet went like a dream....last six inches made me want to scream.

2. Surprised at how difficult it is to strip an RCA cable and make a custom set of wires to tie into my trucks existing 14 ga. video wires. Man that little positive wire in the middle of the RCA was a ROYAL ***** to get it to stay in a female "t-tap" connector. The wire was so small I could not get it to clamp tight enough to hold it. Eventually I got it done. Just seems like such a little wire to be carrying DVD signals ya know!

*Next Tasks:*
1. Fix Vent issue at rear wall.
2. Put down about 5 sheets of Damplifier Pro on rear floor (this is so that if I ever decide to completely cover the entrie floor, I never have to remove that gamed rear seat again!
3. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
4. Solder end of power wire.
5. Install sub in enclosure box.
6. Fire up my system for the first time!
7. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
8. Reinstall all interior trim.
9. RTA and full tweak and tune.
10. Big 3 upgrade.
11. Upgrade battery.
12. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
13. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well it snowed about 4 inches last night and is cold as ********** 

So I am home with free time and its too cold to get outside! Grrrrrrrrrrrr


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## McMan

ARCuhTEK said:


> Well it snowed about 4 inches last night and is cold as **********
> 
> So I am home with free time and its too cold to get outside! Grrrrrrrrrrrr


You get a lot of snow out there! but it gives you more time to work out where to fit your speakers in the door pannels ,working in doors

ATB


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## Low_e_Red

You dont need splitters for the cam signal. There is an option in the D3 to view cam when not in reverse. Just make sure you did not catch power for the cam at the reverse light.


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## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> You dont need splitters for the cam signal. There is an option in the D3 to view cam when not in reverse. Just make sure you did not catch power for the cam at the reverse light.



I see that option in the D3 owners manual (p. 38)

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Unassigned+Content/ci.AVICD3OperationManual0221.Protected

But you only have the OPTION of doing a "rear view" camera or a "reverse camera", the difference being that one is viewable all the time and the other is viewable only in reverse gear. You cannot do both.

I also have the issue of having a factory option of the rear view monitor built into my rear view mirror. Which I like. So I want to be able to keep the video image going to the rear view mirror when reverse gear is selected. That is easy...just keep the same set up.

I can tap those lines (video +, video - and 12v switched when the reverse gear is selected) and send a signal to the D3 that kicks on the monitor to show the camera image.

Follow me here....

But (as I understand it) the Ford OEM camera is on all the time (I find this unusual)....so just by virtue of tapping into the video image lines...I will get a signal. But because you cannot do both the "reverse camera" and the "rear view" camera, the only way to have my cake and eat it too, I have to send that "always on" signal to the AV-1 input.....right? If I send it just to the "Camera in" on the D3...it is waiting for a 12v signal to power the "rear view camera" on. Well when not in reverse...it will never get this signal. Hence the reason to split off and send a second signal to the AV-1, which will work because the camera is always on....

I have been following a thread where you helped an F150 Online member with my identical setup. The link is here (as you know): 08 OEM Backup Cam Mod - F150online Forums

I also know where to get constant 12v power (white wire with blue stripe in the "a-pillar).

But if I tap that 12v signal....and chose the "rear view" option...then every time I go in reverse, I have to manually select the camera in order to see the image. Right? This is not so bad....just not optimal. I thought splitting the signal was the way to get to an optimal situation.


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## ARCuhTEK

Here is a diagram of what I think I want to do. Actually I already have it wired this way....but without power. I will power this up next weekend. Gives me some time to think about it.

Again...my goal here is to have the video feed be *automatically* shown on the D3 when the truck goes into reverse.......and have the option to hit the AV-1 button at any time the vehicle is in forward motion to see what is behind me.

The potential problem lies in a possible signal collision at the AV-1 input.

What do you think?










For me....it all comes down to "IF" the OEM camera is truly.....always on. I need to get a DMM and check the video feed wires while the truck is switched on....and running.

My original idea was that the tap in connection to the 12v that is activated when the reverse gear is selected, would kick the D3 into showing the camera mode...therefore not utilizing *(switching away from)* the AV-1 connection.......so..............if I were using the IPOD....to watch a video....and I put the truck in reverse...a signal collision would not occur. BUT...again...if the OEM camera is ALWAYS sending a signal to AV-1....then anytime I play a video to the D3...I have a problem. Right?

Sorry for the novel....I dont know how to be short winded.

Bear with me...thanks.

*UPDATE......I HAVE CONFIRMED THAT WHEN THE TRUCK IS STARTED AND RUNNING...THE OEM CAMERA IS ALWAYS RECEIVING 12v VIA THE WHITE WIRE WITH THE LIGHT BLUE STRIPE.
*


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## ARCuhTEK

Since I have confirmed that the OEM camera is always receiving power, I have updated the diagram from the image above. Here I have utilized a 2 way AV switch (which does not require power by the way) to handle the signal collision issue shown on the previous diagram.

Since I will never be watching a iPod video when driving, the need to access the 2 way AV switch is very minimal. So I will hide this in the glove box.

I think this will get me where i want to go with the system. 


Suggestions are very welcome. Comments? Questions?










The 2 way AV switch can be found here:
2-Way Audio/Video Selector Switch - RadioShack.com


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## ARCuhTEK

For Low E Red:

Based on the above diagram....do you think I need to diode anything? I know nothing about diodes.

Keep in mind...the area of the diagram where I tap into the 12v reverse signal to the AVIC-D3 is with the Pioneer supplied lead extension wire which shows in the owners manual as having a "fuse resistor." I think that is the same thing as a diode.....????


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## Low_e_Red

wait here. 

Theres a lot going on in that diagram that will not work. 

First the OEM cam just runs the entire time the truck is on. The D3 gives you the option to let it switch to the cam when truck is in reverse (automatically) AND to watch it while driving. You just have to hook up the Reverse wire (Purple/White) to the Black/Pink in the grommet under the driver's carpet.

So ok, next. If you want to be able to watch video through the OEM cam via an output from your D3 that is possible. If you just want the ability to take and switch on and off the cam in the mirror that is possible too.

I just need to know which. If you want PM me and Ill get you my phone number. Then just call me and we can work through this.


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## Low_e_Red

Oh I realized one other thing. Are you using RCA's to your Bitone instead of Optical?


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## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> wait here.
> 
> Theres a lot going on in that diagram that will not work.
> 
> First the OEM cam just runs the entire time the truck is on. The D3 gives you the option to let it switch to the cam when truck is in reverse (automatically) AND to watch it while driving. You just have to hook up the Reverse wire (Purple/White) to the Black/Pink in the grommet under the driver's carpet.
> 
> So ok, next. If you want to be able to watch video through the OEM cam via an output from your D3 that is possible. If you just want the ability to take and switch on and off the cam in the mirror that is possible too.
> 
> I just need to know which. If you want PM me and Ill get you my phone number. Then just call me and we can work through this.


Based on what you just said....I dont see anything wrong with the diagram that does not work. I dont utilize the black/pink wire, but thats because i tapped into the green / yellow wire. I think it does the same thing. Just so you know...I did disconnect the green/yellow wire, but I left the tap, just in case my thinking is correct.

I do not want any functionality of the OEM mirror other than what it does from the factory. I do not want to install a switch to the mirror. Just leave it alone.

I will PM you my phone # thanks.


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## ARCuhTEK

Well, with some help, I finally got my Hu modifications done. For those of you SICK of me posting diagrams.....then reposting with corrections....only to post again....well the good news is that I got my system working the way I want so this is the last diagram....and it does work.

FIRST....a Huge...HUGE...HUUUUGE thank you to Low E Red. He called me while I was in the middle of the install and I was able to get this going. He helped me reroute one of my wires (diagram corrected now) to the correct tap in power source for the video cam. But most importantly, he was able to clearly verify that the D3 head unit DOES allow you to view the reverse camera image at ANYTIME.... Not just while in reverse. I have read the owners manual over and over and to me its states that you have an option...one way or the other..not both. But I can confirm with 100% accuracy, that this mod does work. I get a video image on the D3 when in reverse...and also when I manually select "rear view" (simply push MAP button and then select "rear view" at ANY time).

This eliminated the need need for all the "Y-splitters" shown in my first diagram above, as well as the Radio Shack 2-way AV selector.

MUCH cleaner install.

Thank you LOW E RED!

Here is the final diagram:


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## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> Oh I realized one other thing. Are you using RCA's to your Bitone instead of Optical?


Yes I am using RCA's to the Bit One. The D3 does not offer Optical output. It has an optical output, but the Owners manual explicitly states that this optical output is for future Pioneer products (certainly sounds like its not mean as a main HU signal output)

Do you know something I dont?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 23*

Day 23 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 73*

Total number of days which have passed since build started: 46


Continued on HU modifications. I am happy to report that the HU modifications are basically complete. I was so exhausted when done that I left the entire interior of the truck a complete mess. I mean....junk and wires hanging out everywhere...50% of the front of the truck interior looks like a bomb when off. Tools are EVERYWHERE....but for good reason. When I put everything back together (all was tested successfully tonight) I do so slowly just to make sure all wires are connected well and nothing comes loose on the button up. Nothing is more frustrating that testing successfully, then buttoning up and suddenly something is not working...and you gotta undo...what you just DID!.. LOL


*Work done today:*
1. Finished wiring my OEM camera to my head unit by tapping into the video signal sent from the OEM camera to the rear view mirror monitor (also OEM).

2. Finished wiring my "cell phone" speaker to be located in my overhead railing system (OEM). Next I will incorporate a toggle switch to turn this speaker on and off only for cell phone conversation.

3. Removed the Reverse Camera wiring tap in connection done yesterday and re-wired it today. I did not like the quality of the connection from yesterday. Applied heat shrink to all connections.

4. Finished all the wiring for both iPod cables to the HU.

5. Connected remote turn on wire from HU to a wire I have place in the vicinity of the (to be mounted) Bit One processor.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Surprised at how difficult it was to find the "black wire wit the pink stripe" located in the drivers side door sill area. This wire is needed to send a 12v signal to the D3 HU when the vehicle is put into reverse. The D3 then pops up the reverse camera video image on the screen. The wire is really not that hard to find....errrr...at leas the BUNDLE of wires withn which it can be found. The biggest effort was removing all the ties and tape to explore the 1 MILLION wires within it. I found my black wire with the pink stripe about mid bundle. HINT...the best place to start looking is near where you would rest the heel of your left foot while driving. There is a smaller bundle which penetrates the floor pan via a LARGE flat rubber gasket. START THERE. This smaller bundle travels perpendicular to the door sill and joins the MEGA bundle. I tapped into my wire about 8 inches closer to the fire wall as measured from the intersection of the two bundles.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Purchase a new USB cable to run from the dash area to the Bit One processor. I have decided to do a custom "plug in" area for the Bit One in my dash.
2. Fix Vent issue at rear wall.
3. Put down about 5 sheets of Damplifier Pro on rear floor (this is so that if I ever decide to completely cover the entrie floor, I never have to remove that gamed rear seat again!
4. Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
5. Solder end of power wire.
6. Install sub in enclosure box.
7. Fire up my system for the first time!
8. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
9. Reinstall all interior trim.
10. RTA and full tweak and tune.
11. Big 3 upgrade.
12. Upgrade battery.
13. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
14. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## Low_e_Red

ARCuhTEK said:


> Yes I am using RCA's to the Bit One. The D3 does not offer Optical output. It has an optical output, but the Owners manual explicitly states that this optical output is for future Pioneer products (certainly sounds like its not mean as a main HU signal output)
> 
> Do you know something I dont?


Ok, if I remember correctly Pioneer states that it wont work because they want you to have to use their processor. I am about 85% sure it would work though. If you want try it and let us know if it worked. It would help give a purer signal throughout and there will be at least a few people here that are happy to see it. I have never had the opportunity to try it. 

And you're welcome, glad I could help.


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## theoperator

Just want to say thanks for keeping this updated and I love you diagrams. It's going to make things much easier for me when I do the cam mod on my 08 Limited.


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## ARCuhTEK

theoperator said:


> Just want to say thanks for keeping this updated and I love you diagrams. It's going to make things much easier for me when I do the cam mod on my 08 Limited.


Thanks. I love doing my diagrams. For me, they are really easy. I am about halfway done with my "final diagram" of the system and all of its final components (at least until I decide to upgrade). WHen it is freezing cold, I work on the diagrams and the "materials list/cost"

When it is nice, I work on the build.

The good news is that I am about 90% done now....so the end is near!


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## Melodic Acoustic

What program are you using to make your diagrams. Also got my Bit 1 yesterday. Thanks.


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## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> What program are you using to make your diagrams. Also got my Bit 1 yesterday. Thanks.


I used Corel products, specifically CorelDRAW and CorelPHOTOPaint (version x4).

Any graphics software package will work. The key is that you need (IMO) a photo editor and a page layout program. Some people only use Photoshop for both. But, while an excellent program it will only do what is known as "bitmap" images format. A page layout program will also do "vector" images.

Bitmap= set size, can get fuzzy(pixelated) easily if you dont know what you are doing. Essentially its made up of a bunch of "squares" of color. If you zoom into an image....and see squares of color. It is a bitmap.

Vector. = can be made to any size...and then made larger or smaller with no loss of quality. Made up of lines (think...point "a" to point "b"). Much smaller in file size. No matter how close you zoom in.....the image remains clear and high resolution (same for zooming out too).

Ultimately, when I finish with my page layout program, I still have to convert my image to a JPG format to post on the forum.....so its still a bitmap image and can look fuzzy when the size is changed. But creating the image in a page layout program is more fun and easier IMO in a vector program (page layout).

Some programes that come to mind:

Corel (IMO very cheap compared to competitors) which is CorelDRAW and Corel PHOTOPaint

Adobe CS4 (not sure if that is the latest version) which has Photoshop and its page layout counterpart is (or was) Illustrator. I think they took over Macromedia and sucked in Macromedia Fireworks (photos) and Freehand (page layout)

Xara - hard to find..cheap...but amazing. Just like Corel.

Oh and one more thing.....any page layout program has SOME photo editing capability. So for diagrams will probably suffice.

Same thing for photo editors....many people use them as page layout programs, though the control is far less.

So you can get by with any ONE of these...but I recommend both. Corel comes in a PACKAGE.

Here is a link of the exact product I use:

Corel Store - CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X4

Here is the Adobe version for only....oh.....FOUR times as much money:
http://www.adobe.com/products/creativesuite/

and the best value of all...... $250 for the PRO version....XARA

http://www.xara.com/us/products/xtreme/


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 24*

Day 24 hours: 7
*Total build hours: 80*

*Total number of days which have passed since build started: 47*

*Work done today:*
1. Installed USB cable for Bit One from front dash area to rear area where Bit One will be located. Hid the cable in my front ashtray along with the DRC. We mounted the USB cable here, but also purchased a 10' USB cable with a female connector on one end so we can sit outside of the vehicle and link up to the laptop.

2. Ran AC Link cable from DRC in ashtray to rear location of B1.

3. Grady installed toggle switch for cell phone spekaer (it works!!!).

4. Grady installed DRC on custom mounting brackets in front ashtray. It is cool because the ashtray folds away (OEM feature), so this was a great choice for a location of the DRC and USB cable.

5. Connected up USB cable (front and rear, even though I am only using front pair to connect to Bit One).

6. Put in several sheets of Damplifier Pro on the floor area, to a beyond beyond the front edge of the rear seat. (so I will never have to remove that bastard again).

7. Cleaned up all the cables in the "A" pillar and reinstalled trim.

8. Cleaned up the drivers side door sill area (where I tapped into the wiring). Reinstalled sill trim.

9. Reinstalled all trim around center console.

10. Ordered new OEM factory vents from Ford dealership....yep guys....I lost the battle. I found water in my floor board even from underneath the multiple layers of sound deadening mat. Have to put the OEM cab vents back IN.....pout! Here comes the road noise. I now know that you can cover them if you want....but NEVER remove them! 

*Surprises along the way:*
1. There are a HELLUVA lot of wires in the center console just from the HU alone, let alone the OEM wiring.

2. Found water in my floor pan area caused by me removing OEM cab vents.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Disconnect rear door speakers.
2. Install newly ordered cab vents at rear wall.
3 . Mount and connect Bit One signal processor.
4. Install sub in enclosure box.
5. Fire up my system for the first time!
6. Do basic initial set up of Bit One (software) and amp settings.
7. Reinstall all interior trim.
8. RTA and full tweak and tune.
9. Big 3 upgrade.
10. Upgrade battery.
11. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
12. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 25*

Day 25 hours: 4
*Total build hours: 84*

*Total number of days which have passed since build started: 48*

*Work done today:*
1. Connected the following to the Bit One:
a. 12v power
b. Memory wire
c. Remote wire in
d. Three remote wires out (into one slot).

2. Connected remote wires to all three amps.

3. Turned gains down on all amps.

4. Tweaked other controls for each amp in preparation for Bit One launch.

5. Connected RCA cables from HU to the Pre-Amp in on the Bit One.

6. Connected all RCA cables to the Pre-Amp Out on the Bit One to each individual amp.

7. Reinstalled rear seat metal tube support bar. I hate this thing.

8. Had to momentarily stop and unmount the two Audison Lrx amps and move them slightly due to a conflict with my wiring and the tube bar.

9. Grady helped me grind down a plastic clamp that was STILL in the way of my wiring. It looked good after he was done.

10. Connected USB cables from Bit one to laptop. This felt good!

11. Connected AC Link cable from DRC to Bit One.

12. Inserted all fuses into power distribution block! Getting CLOSER!

13. Connected main power cable at the block with main fuse.

14. Insert main ground wire to its distribution block.

15. Turn ignition on......

*POWER TO THE SYSTEM PEOPLE!!!! We have a launch!*

Started Bit One installation program as per directions......and then when the install asked me to insert the test sound CD to the HU......the trucks battery died!!!

The entire system went down due to dead battery. DAMMMMMMMIT!! DAMMMNIT!

So now I have to stop and tend to the battery. It took me about 30 minutes to charge the battery and get her started again. It is VERy obvious to me that I will not be able to even listen to the system for one minute without the engine running. Time to get a new battery.

It was dark...so I shut the install down for the night. It is currently 60 degrees outside and sunny. Time is wasting....but I have a client meeting in one hour...after that SCHOOL IS OUT..and its time to get this party started!!! YEE HAW! I am very excited!

*Surprises along the way:*
1. That damned battery died in under 5 minutes! I did not even have the volume up!

2. Technically no electrical surprises here...so I am proud of that, considering this is my first build and at 1200 watts....its no small puppy. No smoking wires!!

*Next Tasks:*
1. Disconnect rear door speakers.
2. Install newly ordered cab vents at rear wall.
3 . Mount Bit One signal processor.
4. Cut to custom length, each speaker wire and clamp down.
5. Reinstall all interior trim.
6. RTA and full tweak and tune.
7. Big 3 upgrade.
8. Upgrade battery.
9. Sound deaden doors (summer time)
10. Custom door panels to fit 4" midrange into the mix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Almost forgot to take pictures...but I have some. I will post tonight!


----------



## nepl29

Glad everything is coming along. i enjoy reading your build log.


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## ARCuhTEK

Thanks Nepl29

Well ladies and gentlemen, my install can now be considered a success!!!! The Bit One has been fired up....and is now in tweaking mode!

To be honest...I haven't a clue what I am doing with this software. I am the kind of person the DIYMA experts will hate. Meaning, at this stage the software and hardware are way too complicated for my extremely limited knowledge. I knew it would be...so even though the physical hard part is 95% over, the intellectual hard part has just begun.

But you dont know me...it may take a year, but I will learn what this puppy can do.

To me.....the software is all over the place. But so is a plate of spaghetti. It has way more controls than I know what to do with...and other than being able to tell the differene with "volume" controls....I cannot tell much difference with the various settings I am "playing" with at this time.

Fear not......it is NOT the Bit One. It is obvious to me that I am currently over my head. I have a lot of confidence that I have top notch equipment....or at least 8-9 out of 10 equipment.

I think I will start a "Learn the Bit One Software" thread....to allow some of us the ability to "perhaps" grow together and a little faster.

My reviews so far on my system. I think she has FAR more in her than what I am hearing. Admittedly, I am switching between SQ and SPL type music, just to see her range. So far the one song I have enjoyed the most is on the *JM Focal Demo Disc 1 “Improvisation” - by Ron Tutt"*. My goodness you can really hear each driver as it does its work! I was really impressed at the clarity of my system. I played the song two times in a row...just wanting to hear the sub, then the mid-bass...and finally the tweeter.

I switched back and forth with the default presets on the B1 DRC and while I could not tell much difference...I do believe there was some. Now watch someone chime in and tell me all the factory presets are the same as a default until you manually change them.

If I had to pinpoint any disappointment at this time, it would be my mid-bass. But I have not given up yet....I think its all part of the tweaking. I mean...there is no RTA yet...nothing. By disappointment, I mean...my Focal K2P's are being driven by 210 watts RMS each...and they feel like they are getting maybe 75w. Granted, I have not really touched the gains on the amps or messed with any custom cross over points. I also think my response will improve greatly when I do my summer sound deadening and Luxury Liner Pro upgrade to each front door.

All in all, she sounds really nice folks. I have thus far earned my DIYMA stripes as far as I am concerned. First build, with a complex (to me) system, no real hiccups, no equipment fried...and not a lot of backpedaling duer to my lack of understanding of the electronics, etc.

I am a proud father!

If I can do it..so can you!


----------



## IBcivic

:thumbsup:CONGRATS ARC!!!:rockon:


----------



## IBcivic

i'm gonna be posted in charlotte for 3 weeks , startin march 22nd.[workin on this project>> http://www.campaignforculturalfacilities.org/facilities/knight_theater.php ]
ya think i could maybe swing by and give it a listen?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> i'm gonna be posted in charlotte for 3 weeks , startin march 22nd.[workin on this project>> The Knight Theater | The Campaign for Cultural Facitilies ]
> ya think i could maybe swing by and give it a listen?


You are working on THIS? The Knight Theater | The Campaign for Cultural Facitilies


WOW....what exactly do you do?

I will try to make it down. For now, lets say yes....and arrange when. But remember....this is my first system, i am literally half deaf....and all speaker locations are in stock mounting positions. So this thing will not win any awards on its way to Vegas. Know what I mean. It would intimate me to "show it off" to anyone who knew 1% more than I do about systems...which is practically everyone! LOL

You are free to listen and I am open to assistance in tweaking it....but remember, I am not putting me or my system out there as any "benchmark per se! (cheesy grin).

I need to get the final diagram done so everyone can basically tell what is installed. 

Keep me up to date on Charlotte.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> You are working on THIS? The Knight Theater | The Campaign for Cultural Facitilies
> 
> 
> WOW....what exactly do you do?
> 
> I will try to make it down. For now, lets say yes....and arrange when. But remember....this is my first system, i am literally half deaf....and all speaker locations are in stock mounting positions. So this thing will not win any awards on its way to Vegas. Know what I mean. It would intimate me to "show it off" to anyone who knew 1% more than I do about systems...which is practically everyone! LOL
> 
> You are free to listen and I am open to assistance in tweaking it....but remember, I am not putting me or my system out there as any "benchmark per se! (cheesy grin).
> 
> I need to get the final diagram done so everyone can basically tell what is installed.
> 
> Keep me up to date on Charlotte.


i'll be putting in the orchestra pit/seating wagon , lifting stucture... you are more than welcome to see it on site,once i get it running. here is who i work for>Gala Systems, Spiralift, Orchestra lift, Stage lift, Understage lift systems, Theater, Concert halls, Auditorium, Gala Venue

oh ... for your install....dont worry about it...it's outta diy curiosity. but i am bringing my "punch list" [j/k]
dont forget i am still a diy larva..


----------



## ARCuhTEK

WOW...cool!


----------



## m3gunner

Congrats, Kevin... nice work.

Remember that the difference between 75 watts and 210 watts is only about 4.5 dB, so it won't sound like a *huge* difference. Once you get levels set up correctly, I'm sure it will work its way out and sound fantastic!


----------



## Low_e_Red

m3gunner said:


> Congrats, Kevin... nice work.
> 
> Remember that the difference between 75 watts and 210 watts is only about 4.5 dB, so it won't sound like a *huge* difference. Once you get levels set up correctly, I'm sure it will work its way out and sound fantastic!


???? 3db is double the output.... Kinda lost on how its not a HUGE difference (4.5db is approx 3x).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well remember....I do not "know" that it is only getting 75w....I just "thought" 210w / mid-bass would "feel" more punchy. Could be me....could be the driver....and it could be awesome and me not really know it yet to my lack of tuning knowledge.

Hey Low E.....I have a question:

1. I seem to have a remote power problem between my AVIC-D3 and the rest of my system. It works fine...kinda. Even after my truck is switched off, and the D-3 is off.....and the truck door is opened....the Bit One is still on and therefore all my amps are still on. However....wait about one more minute after everything is off....and then the Bit One goes off by itself (and of course the test of the system).

I just noticed it before I went to bed last night....time to go take a closer look/observation.

*My question is this....if I decide to use the "key off" power input available on the Bit One instead of utilizing the remote power from the D3, do you know which wire I would tap into within the truck to get a key off/on 12 v power lead?*

Thanks!


----------



## McMan

Hi Kevin,

Just wandering dose your interior light have a delay before knocking off? if so have you connected to that sorse of power ?

Hope this helps.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

McMan said:


> Hi Kevin,
> 
> Just wandering dose your interior light have a delay before knocking off? if so have you connected to that sorse of power ?
> 
> Hope this helps.


Yes it does....but I am connected to the HU remote turn on. So it puzzles me as to why, after the HU has no power, the Bit One does continue to have power. It may in fact be a design feature that the Bit One delays the turn off and turn on to avoid popping. Not sure.


----------



## McMan

ARCuhTEK said:


> Yes it does....but I am connected to the HU remote turn on. So it puzzles me as to why, after the HU has no power, the Bit One does continue to have power. It may in fact be a design feature that the Bit One delays the turn off and turn on to avoid popping. Not sure.


Sound like your head unit has a soft amp turn off, as if the power from the head unit remote goes off the bit1 would go off as it would have no power from the h/u remote to it .
Have you tested the remote cable for power as you turn of the h/u? this might ansuer the questiom.

ATB


----------



## Low_e_Red

It has to be the Bit1. Because on these trucks, if you open the door with the key off RAP will be canceled. At that time, the D3 has no power via the Acc Circuit. If there is no power to the Acc then the REM is dead. No REM tells me that the Bit one uses a soft turn off to help avoid pops. 

Now, it may also hold power to finish saving and shutting down as a PC would. Let me see if I can get an answer for you from a fellow insider.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> Now, it may also hold power to finish saving and shutting down as a PC would. Let me see if I can get an answer for you from a fellow insider.


I think this is the answer. I watched it several times today and each time, it turned off about 30 seconds after the rest of the truck was 100% off. Then it just slowly turned off. Actually I find it rather nice now that I have had the opportunity to really watch it.


----------



## InjunV18

Hey, let me know when you guys are going to be in Charlotte for the Knight Theater thing. I hopefully will have most of my system installed by then and we could play compare with the h701 and bit one haha. Also, I would love to see the Knight as it's really cool that we're getting it. Downtown/Uptown is a blossoming place and it's exciting to see it keep growing.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I will let Stinky lead the charge on that one...Stinky keep us posted.


----------



## InjunV18

Awesome... by the way congrats on finishing up. Your documentation has been great and I look forward to your tuning as I too am worried about that. Don't fear the HDPE, it's really not that bad to work with. Just takes the right tools. I'm ready to get mine done. It feels good now that I've finally got all the equipment in or in the mail.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I finished all the wiring, cleaning, clamping, tying, etc tonight. She is TIGHT....or as tight as I can make her. I have some summer goals like sound deadening the doors.

Next is to put the interior trim back in....and then clean the hell out of the truck, tint front doors, lower, put on my new wheels....then sit and tweak the hell out of it. 

My midbass came around today....man they are rocking now!


----------



## Low_e_Red

I wish I could help you tune it. Best bet is to RTA (can be made for 100ish) the truck channel by channel. Then get a "reference disc" (one you know religiously) and tweak it from there until its just right. It will take a while.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> My midbass came around today....man they are rocking now!


Good, I'm glad to hear that!

One of the first errors I made when installing the Lrx amp to midbass was not bypassing the on board crossovers. I was gonna mention that should the midbass not opened up. I couldn't understand why my low end up front wasn't "there," went back to the amp, depressed the crossover bypass button on the Lrx, and bam, there it was.

To make matters worse, after fixing that small, yet huge problem, the midbass drivers were out of phase. I threw in a setup disc with in and out of phase recordings,fixed the phase, and again, bam, the midbass was really there!

And just wait, once you have the doors deadened, your reponse will be even better. Tigher, better impact, with a new good riddence of echoeness for lack of a better word. 


Do you have a setup disc handy? Here's a link to the IASCA 1997 setup disc. Make sure you also download the "linear notes" that explain how the tracks are to be used. Its very helpful.

Also, where are your drivers crossed at for the moment?


----------



## McMan

Glad you found out what the slow turn off was, and congrats on powering it all up OK, so only tuning in left then, best of luck tuning and let us know how you get on

Keep that new battery charged up

ATB.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Good, I'm glad to hear that!


Sent you a PM.


----------



## m3gunner

Low_e_Red said:


> ???? 3db is double the output.... Kinda lost on how its not a HUGE difference (4.5db is approx 3x).


It's all relative...

In general terms, 1 dB is the smallest change that most of us can detect... but it takes 10 dB (10x the power) for the sound to *subjectively* sound "twice as loud". When you're talking in dBs, you're talking on a logarithmic scale... and it doesn't line up the same as doing multiplication.

The calculation for this is: dB Change = 10 log(P1/P2)

Let's do the math. Let's assume a speaker that puts out 90 dB at 1 watt.

This driver with 75 watts of input will be putting out 108.75 dB. That's pretty loud...

With 220 watts, the driver will be putting out 113.42 dB (this assumes that there is NO compression on the driver... in reality, most drivers (except for really high power woofers) will be exhibiting some compression at this level.

In order to get the full 10 dB of change to sound "twice as loud", we'd have to bump the power up to 750 watts.

dB change = 10x log (750/75) = 10 dB

At that level, the driver would be putting out 118.75 dB.

Regrettably, our ears aren't as linear as we'd like. 

Reference: Table chart sound pressure levels level sound pressure and sound intensity ratio calculation comparison - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin


----------



## KMelt

very nice install. f150's rock


----------



## ARCuhTEK

KMelt said:


> very nice install. f150's rock


Thanks! I am dealing with a defective or problematic Audison Bit One sound processor at the moment. It works great, until I hook it up to its own remote control (from which I control my volume "sometimes). It has a digital beeping noise/signal that is annoying.

Turns out this is a known issue.....so I hope to get it replaced.

I promise more pictures very very soon. They are on my camera...just not on the website!


----------



## Low_e_Red

m3gunner said:


> It's all relative...
> 
> In general terms, 1 dB is the smallest change that most of us can detect... but it takes 10 dB (10x the power) for the sound to *subjectively* sound "twice as loud". When you're talking in dBs, you're talking on a logarithmic scale... and it doesn't line up the same as doing multiplication.
> 
> The calculation for this is: dB Change = 10 log(P1/P2)
> 
> Let's do the math. Let's assume a speaker that puts out 90 dB at 1 watt.
> 
> This driver with 75 watts of input will be putting out 108.75 dB. That's pretty loud...
> 
> With 220 watts, the driver will be putting out 113.42 dB (this assumes that there is NO compression on the driver... in reality, most drivers (except for really high power woofers) will be exhibiting some compression at this level.
> 
> In order to get the full 10 dB of change to sound "twice as loud", we'd have to bump the power up to 750 watts.
> 
> dB change = 10x log (750/75) = 10 dB
> 
> At that level, the driver would be putting out 118.75 dB.
> 
> Regrettably, our ears aren't as linear as we'd like.
> 
> Reference: Table chart sound pressure levels level sound pressure and sound intensity ratio calculation comparison - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin


I agree completely. I was talking more from a number standpoint. Gotta love that Fletch Curve. I did know that it was a log scale thats why I said approx 4.5, I wasnt pulling out a calc


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I need to update my daily logs since I "finished" my system two days ago, but honestly I have been relaxing a bit and also dealing with a Bit One issue.

Meanwhile, I also promised more photos and here they are....most of these are just showing my wiring cleanup and final location of the sub enclosure and Bit One. I have (as of today) still not mounted the Bit One (because of the defective issue).


I also did some color coding with heat shrink just to help me with remembering the speaker and RCA assignments into the future. 

Also note that I have posted some pictures of just how "tight" things are between my wires, equipment and the factory seat (structural) bar. Man it is tight.

Finally you will notice that the final location of my RCAs, speaker wire and the 1/0 ga power/ground wires are literally right on top of one another. This was not as planned. The power and ground wires were supposed to go behind the amp board, but due to the lack of flexibility of the wire, I could not make the wire, "make two turns" in such a short distance, so it has to be ran in front of the amp board ....right beside all the speaker and RCA wires. I have terrible engine/alt whine and I think this is a contributing factor.....to be determined!

On with the pics (in sequence more or less):
























































99% finished! Bit One and Sub enclosure now at home (but not securely mounted)







































More later:


----------



## Mixagolf1

sweet :thumbsup:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

All color coded...(cheesy grin)



















You will notice I have two slots left in the Bit One output side and also two channels left open on the lower Audison Lrx amplifier. This is for a future 3 way set up. I have the speaker wire already ran to each door and the RCA's standing idle. I just have no "easy" place to mount them. That is for of a custom approach later.....


----------



## IBcivic

hiya ark, i would start by moving this bundle of cables , that can act as a ''pick-up'' , coil away from the power cable. 
does the whine show up in every driver or just certain ones?
you can un plug the input wires at each amp untill the noize goes away and it might help pin-point the source of your problems.


----------



## Low_e_Red

Get that ground out from under that seat bolt.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> hiya ark, i would start by moving this bundle of cables , that can act as a ''pick-up'' , coil away from the power cable.
> does the whine show up in every driver or just certain ones?
> you can un plug the input wires at each amp untill the noize goes away and it might help pin-point the source of your problems.


I have about ten things to check on alt whine. I have found out that the Bit One is the major contributor. Beyond that, the bundle you point out is next. As far as moving them away from the power wires...i do not think that is possible. Maybe....just not banking on it. If I find that this is a source I will probably invest in buying some lead shielding to wrap the power cables within....which will help for sure. As I said above, this arrangement of power cables to single cables was THE VERY thing I did not want in my system. Note that the 4 ga power cables to each amp are routed around my ass to get to my elbow at the top of the amp wall.....that is precisely why.

The whine seems isolated to the front left doors. Not sure if it is just the tweeters or both tweeter and mid bass. Pulling wires and diagnosing the problem is on the agenda this weekend. But I better not avoid Uncle Sam and the tax man too much longer....gotta do that!

Oh and one more thing....any updates on Charlotte (dates)?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> Get that ground out from under that seat bolt.


Okay...why do you say this? That bolt goes straight to the chassis. Is it making the seat bolt, seat tubular bar into a pathway? I didnt think of that.


----------



## 8675309

The ground point you have may be good. I know on my 4runner I had problems with the ground location. After buying a manual and looking at the physical ground points I had a total of 9. I could ground to the body in one location and get bad noise. I could go to one of the ground points and clear up the noise. 

Do a google search on 08 Ford F150 grounding points. A little searching should result in a find.

The worst that can happen is you will find out that you need to move the ground a couple of feet. 

I am curious on the bit one noise. A friend put one in and did not experience any noise. I have not used mine yet and I have looked into the flash issue and hope I dont have a noise issue. The only thing I have found that I will prob have a problem with is that even though you have a digital input on the bit one you still have to have an analog input. I am a bit confused on if you have to keep the analog in or not. From what I was told you have to use analog for initial setup; so I am unsure if you need the analog signal after the initial setup. I guess I will find out in a month or so.

You may have posted this but how does the overall sound present to you on your install?








ARCuhTEK said:


> Okay...why do you say this? That bolt goes straight to the chassis. Is it making the seat bolt, seat tubular bar into a pathway? I didnt think of that.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

8675309 said:


> From what I was told you have to use analog for initial setup; so I am unsure if you need the analog signal after the initial setup. I guess I will find out in a month or so.
> 
> You may have posted this but how does the overall sound present to you on your install?


I can answer that.

You will need to have RCA's for the initial set up and that is all. However, it would be a bad idea to toss the RCAs after the initial setup. I have had to re-initialize the unit several times in one week. I am only doing analog so no issue for me. For you, I would run both the digital and the analog to the B1. After your set up, simply unplug the RCAs and leave then in place or hid them nearby. I would leave them plugged into your HU if possible (permanently). This is not required, just a suggestion for future convenience.

Say for example a new firmware release comes out. You will need the analog because it requires a reinitialization.

You ask how my sound present to me? If I understand the question is how is the final sound? Well it is tough to say because I have yet to tweak ANY settings on the Bit One. It is pretty much operating out of the box. I am no pro so my critique of the sound will be elementary.

Personally it is the best sounding system I have ever heard. But I have never been to a competition. Sure I have heard 5000 w systems that rattle my head, but I am not shooting for that. I think I can really fine tune my system, but I am not overly confident that the sound will get "that much better" to my novice ears. I have not tuned the amp gains. I have not done RTA etc. My mid bass are kicking ass. In fact I "feel" them more than I thought I would. I often reach behind my drivers seat and put my hand on the sub cone (under rear seat) durijng a song to feel that driver just to make sure the pounding I am feeling is the sub..when in reality it is the midbass.

I have the subs and miss bass crossed right now at 125Hz. Mids go to 5000 Hz with the bandpass feature. I should clarify that I did tweak this setting, whereas above I said I had done nothing. Just this...I swear! LOL

Anyway...I am happy. Very happy. I have been hesitant to play too much with the system and its sound because I am a bit grumpy about the Bit One defect. From the Bit One thread on this forum you can learn that I am not the only one with the exact issue. But it has been discussed enough for me to understand that this known issue affects very few of the Bit Ones.


----------



## 8675309

ARCuhTEK said:


> Anyway...I am happy. Very happy. I have been hesitant to play too much with the system and its sound because I am a bit grumpy about the Bit One defect.


It is a lot to fork out for a unit that does not work!

I hope it all works out for you and me both! You did get factory war?


----------



## JJDH

arcuhtec i have a couple of questions, i am not as advanced as u guys, i can do enough to get standard sound, first where is the best ground point, second can somethin like dryer vents be used to cover rear vents,or a sheet metal shield, i install hvac for a living so i can do alot with sheet metal, what is the big 4......right now with one jl 500/1 amp my lights dim when base hits, i have to resolve that. what should i do to fixxxx that? also any pics on how to get wires through the rear doors, or is that self explanitory when panels are out. i am adding another amp 300/4 for the doors, 2 stereo shops here said that the 4awg wire i have is fine and leave it, book and other guru said 2awg minimum,, the stereo shops said i would be wasting my money to upsize wire,, they emphasized that even when i had the cash out and said cut me 20 feet,, what to do
? also what size fuse should i have if i do upsize,, lastly what do u meen by custom baffles behind speakers,,,,,, its alot of questions, but u have just done all this and thought it would be ok to ask


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have about ten things to check on alt whine. I have found out that the Bit One is the major contributor. Beyond that, the bundle you point out is next. As far as moving them away from the power wires...i do not think that is possible. Maybe....just not banking on it. If I find that this is a source I will probably invest in buying some lead shielding to wrap the power cables within....which will help for sure. As I said above, this arrangement of power cables to single cables was THE VERY thing I did not want in my system. Note that the 4 ga power cables to each amp are routed around my ass to get to my elbow at the top of the amp wall.....that is precisely why.
> 
> The whine seems isolated to the front left doors. Not sure if it is just the tweeters or both tweeter and mid bass. Pulling wires and diagnosing the problem is on the agenda this weekend. But I better not avoid Uncle Sam and the tax man too much longer....gotta do that!
> 
> Oh and one more thing....any updates on Charlotte (dates)?


 ETA> 8;45 pm march 22...... work> march 23 6;30 am
i'll be free on week-ends,though....{3 in a row} how far is charlotte from your place?


----------



## mSaLL150

Thats the same ground point i used and i've had zero issues. For some reason i remember the bolt being smaller than that though.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

JJDH said:


> arcuhtec i have a couple of questions, i am not as advanced as u guys, i can do enough to get standard sound, first where is the best ground point, second can somethin like dryer vents be used to cover rear vents,or a sheet metal shield, i install hvac for a living so i can do alot with sheet metal, what is the big 4......right now with one jl 500/1 amp my lights dim when base hits, i have to resolve that. what should i do to fixxxx that? also any pics on how to get wires through the rear doors, or is that self explanitory when panels are out. i am adding another amp 300/4 for the doors, 2 stereo shops here said that the 4awg wire i have is fine and leave it, book and other guru said 2awg minimum,, the stereo shops said i would be wasting my money to upsize wire,, they emphasized that even when i had the cash out and said cut me 20 feet,, what to do
> ? also what size fuse should i have if i do upsize,, lastly what do u meen by custom baffles behind speakers,,,,,, its alot of questions, but u have just done all this and thought it would be ok to ask


I sent you a lengthy PM.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> ETA> 8;45 pm march 22...... work> march 23 6;30 am
> i'll be free on week-ends,though....{3 in a row} how far is charlotte from your place?



I am 1 1/2 hours from Charlotte. My wife needs to come down Thursday 3/26 and I thought we could stay a few days (with friends). Are you available 26, 27th or 28th?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Thats the same ground point i used and i've had zero issues. For some reason i remember the bolt being smaller than that though.


It is a big mf bolt. The nut is 18mm or around 11/16ths I have it so tight, I cannot imagine a better ground short of drilling the frame. I know tight does not equal excellent ground....but it IS a chassis bolt.

I am 90% certain my alt whine is from my Bit One. I have good reliable information on Bit One problems to confirm this already.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am 1 1/2 hours from Charlotte. My wife needs to come down Thursday 3/26 and I thought we could stay a few days (with friends). Are you available 26, 27th or 28th?


on the 28th for sure. will p-m ya as soon as i get in town


----------



## Low_e_Red

I would much rather go directly to the chassis. I too many times have seen seatbelt bolts be intermittent. (I had a installer that I worked with that loved his seat bolts. I cant count how many I ended up fixing...)

Let the mids out a bit. Crossover at 60-70hz with a decent slope. Itll help a bit.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> I would much rather go directly to the chassis. I too many times have seen seatbelt bolts be intermittent. (I had a installer that I worked with that loved his seat bolts. I cant count how many I ended up fixing...)
> 
> Let the mids out a bit. Crossover at 60-70hz with a decent slope. Itll help a bit.


If a new Bit One does not correct all of the whine, I will certainly go for the chassis. I have the wire on hand. I just have to drill the silly 3/4" dia. hole. Oh joy.

What do you recommend as a decent slope? I can lower the crossover some and play with it for sure. It is easy on the Bit One and it is live, meaning I can hear the change immediately while tweaking the laptop. As you know, when you go active, especially with thsi type of toy, it is easy to get engulfed in tweaking infinitely.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I finally finished my "as-built" diagram of the equipment in my vehicle. Enjoy.


----------



## Low_e_Red

ARCuhTEK said:


> If a new Bit One does not correct all of the whine, I will certainly go for the chassis. I have the wire on hand. I just have to drill the silly 3/4" dia. hole. Oh joy.
> 
> What do you recommend as a decent slope? I can lower the crossover some and play with it for sure. It is easy on the Bit One and it is live, meaning I can hear the change immediately while tweaking the laptop. As you know, when you go active, especially with thsi type of toy, it is easy to get engulfed in tweaking infinitely.
> 
> Thank you for your help.



Drop it down in to the mid 60's. Start with a 12db/oct and then go up from there. Turn off the subs when you do it. The idea is to have the subs play the least possible.

I just want to help a new DIY'er with a desire to do it right from the get go.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> The idea is to have the subs play the least possible.


What? Do you mean during set up? or all the time? Oh you mean you want the subs to do the least amount of work of all the speakers? I know I am all for SQ....but sometimes I just want to feel it ya know...

I guess that set up would be for a different preset on the Bit One huh?


----------



## pylda

Impressive setup ARC, nice job!


----------



## Low_e_Red

ARCuhTEK said:


> What? Do you mean during set up? or all the time? Oh you mean you want the subs to do the least amount of work of all the speakers? I know I am all for SQ....but sometimes I just want to feel it ya know...
> 
> I guess that set up would be for a different preset on the Bit One huh?


A "jam" setting would be a good idea. 

But I really try to let my doors to most of the work. It helps to bring the bass up in front of you. (All the time).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well I dont hear my subs much below 40hz....so are you saying with a 60hz xo that my subs would only be playing a total of about 20 hz worth of frequencies? I know they play the slopes too but just sayin....


----------



## mSaLL150

ARCuhTEK said:


> Well I dont hear my subs much below 40hz....so are you saying with a 60hz xo that my subs would only be playing a total of about 20 hz worth of frequencies? I know they play the slopes too but just sayin....


You are using a sealed enclosure, yes? You should hear the subwoofer below 40Hz...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> You are using a sealed enclosure, yes? You should hear the subwoofer below 40Hz...


Sealed yes...and yes everyone else would hear it from about 20-hz to 60 hz using his suggestion, but even that seems like a really small frequency range before the xo. With my terrible hearing I dont hear it much....feel it, maybe.


----------



## mSaLL150

ARCuhTEK said:


> Sealed yes...and yes everyone else would hear it from about 20-hz to 60 hz using his suggestion, but even that seems like a really small frequency range before the xo. With my terrible hearing I dont hear it much....feel it, maybe.


Well tune it to how YOU like it to sound. Some people swear by crossing them lower. I personally have mine crossed at 80Hz right now. Have the mids also crossed around there. This is because with _my_ particular equipment in _my_ particular install, it sounds best to ME that way. And thats all that matters.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Well tune it to how YOU like it to sound. Some people swear by crossing them lower. I personally have mine crossed at 80Hz right now. Have the mids also crossed around there. This is because with _my_ particular equipment in _my_ particular install, it sounds best to ME that way. And thats all that matters.


Agreed. I have several ways I want to set it up and the Bit One allows four presets. So I can set it up to four types of situations. One will be for when my wife is in the car.....in other words....as little bass and mid bass as possible.


----------



## rockinridgeline

Hey Arc'

Installed caraflex on my Ridgeline today after seeing your post some time ago. Using that stuff for the 1/0 power wire to the back of the truck was a lifesaver. It is almost impossible to come through the firewall on the Ridgeline. There is an angle in the floor as it curves to the back of the cab and that worked out to be a perfect place to use a 90 degree liquid tight fitting. Thanks for posting all of the details. It helped on my install.


----------



## Low_e_Red

60-20Hz, is 1.5oct's. So its actually not as small as you would think.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> 60-20Hz, is 1.5oct's. So its actually not as small as you would think.


Well now that you put it THAT way....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

rockinridgeline said:


> Hey Arc'
> 
> Installed caraflex on my Ridgeline today after seeing your post some time ago. Using that stuff for the 1/0 power wire to the back of the truck was a lifesaver. It is almost impossible to come through the firewall on the Ridgeline. There is an angle in the floor as it curves to the back of the cab and that worked out to be a perfect place to use a 90 degree liquid tight fitting. Thanks for posting all of the details. It helped on my install.


Glad to help. I have had many discussion on other forums about the pros and cons of mounting power wire under the vehicle. After doing my install, I can assure anyone that I feel completely safe in doing so. It may not have been my first choice, but I certainly do not feel that I have cut any corners or put the vehicle in jeopardy in doing so.


----------



## ubernewb

new here, but just gonna throw this out there...

you said you're having issues with the bit one with your remote plugged in up front? just for its and giggles, try using a shorter usb cable plugged straight into the unit. usb cables tend to have problems carrying signal over a long distance (ie, the distance between a dash and the back of a big truck) ideally, you don't want cables longer than about 10 feet or so


----------



## ARCuhTEK

ubernewb said:


> new here, but just gonna throw this out there...
> 
> you said you're having issues with the bit one with your remote plugged in up front? just for its and giggles, try using a shorter usb cable plugged straight into the unit. usb cables tend to have problems carrying signal over a long distance (ie, the distance between a dash and the back of a big truck) ideally, you don't want cables longer than about 10 feet or so



I am using the Audison cable that is 9 feet long that came with the unit. I have a longer cable to extend to outside the car for when I finally get to tweak and tune with the laptop outside the car but that set up has yet to be utilized.

And BTW, the remote does not utilize the USB. It has its own AC-Link cable from Audison. The USB is not for the remote but for the laptop. So there is no way to make a shorter cable for the remote unless you want to make a custom harness, which I am not really into.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

socal28 said:


> Very cool setup! Keep up the great work!


Thank you. It will be perfect soon (within a month).


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Glad to help. I have had many discussion on other forums about the pros and cons of mounting power wire under the vehicle. After doing my install, I can assure anyone that I feel completely safe in doing so. It may not have been my first choice, but I certainly do not feel that I have cut any corners or put the vehicle in jeopardy in doing so.


3rd gen vettes had the battery behind the driver's seat and the cable ran underneath the floor pan w/o any sheilding ,whatso-ever.. so having that conduit as extra protection is even better. i may do the same on my civic build. bonus>>>no carpet bulge, no fussing with the firewall grommet.....


----------



## rockinridgeline

going way back to my 12V retail days, I think I remember Eric Holdaway's IASCA winning Buick GN having some sort of conduit under the car. One other advantage to doing it this way is it allows running speaker wire down each side of the car and signal down the middle with power being underneath. I am running 3 way active up front plus a sub with twisted pair 12 ga spkr wire. So that is 3 runs on each side of the double insulated twisted pair 12 ga wire. Needs a lot of space! If I had 1/0 gauge power running down one side or the other I don't know how I would get all of the wiring under the sill plates.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

rockinridgeline said:


> going way back to my 12V retail days, I think I remember Eric Holdaway's IASCA winning Buick GN having some sort of conduit under the car. One other advantage to doing it this way is it allows running speaker wire down each side of the car and signal down the middle with power being underneath. I am running 3 way active up front plus a sub with twisted pair 12 ga spkr wire. So that is 3 runs on each side of the double insulated twisted pair 12 ga wire. Needs a lot of space! If I had 1/0 gauge power running down one side or the other I don't know how I would get all of the wiring under the sill plates.


Which is why (one reason why) I chose to go subfloor (  ) with the 1/0 ga.


----------



## LRG

Wow ARC, congrats on your system, top notch equipment and first rate install. I've been following the thread for a few weeks now with great intrest as I've got a 2004 F150 SuperCrew that I'm getting ready to install a system in. Thanks for taking all the time to take great pics and post in so much detail, your thread has been/ will be a great help to me!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

LRG said:


> Wow ARC, congrats on your system, top notch equipment and first rate install. I've been following the thread for a few weeks now with great intrest as I've got a 2004 F150 SuperCrew that I'm getting ready to install a system in. Thanks for taking all the time to take great pics and post in so much detail, your thread has been/ will be a great help to me!


You are welcome. I am still not finished, and I definitely need to post the final two days of the actual physical build time. Right now my Bit One is back in California awaiting to be returned to me.

As soon as she gets back, I am ready to tweak tune and enjoy.


----------



## mSaLL150

ARCuhTEK said:


> You are welcome. I am still not finished, and I definitely need to post the final two days of the actual physical build time. Right now *my Bit One is back in California* awaiting to be returned to me.
> 
> *As soon as she gets back*, I am ready to tweak tune and enjoy.


Shes not coming back. I stole it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Shes not coming back. I stole it.


LOL...you WISH!


----------



## ubernewb

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am using the Audison cable that is 9 feet long that came with the unit. I have a longer cable to extend to outside the car for when I finally get to tweak and tune with the laptop outside the car but that set up has yet to be utilized.
> 
> And BTW, the remote does not utilize the USB. It has its own AC-Link cable from Audison. The USB is not for the remote but for the laptop. So there is no way to make a shorter cable for the remote unless you want to make a custom harness, which I am not really into.


gotcha.. i thought it was via an extended usb. was worth a shot i spose.. still something to keep in mind for laptop use tho. if you did go over 15ft the data signal between the two could get glitchy. when that happens you can get corrupt data packets, which could in turn mess with your tuning.


----------



## IBcivic

ark.........a little update on the charlotte visit....they pushed back the date by a week so...in theory,i will be there during the first 3 weeks of april. ...pfff...contractors..always behind schedule....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Oh okay. Well we will arrange when you get here. I will still be in Charlotte on the 27 and 28th. But at this point I am not sure I will be with my main component, the Bit One, so that would have sucked.

Actually I do think it will be back by then but not sure I could give it a good beating with the tuning fork by then.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Oh okay. Well we will arrange when you get here. I will still be in Charlotte on the 27 and 28th. But at this point I am not sure I will be with my main component, the Bit One, so that would have sucked.
> 
> Actually I do think it will be back by then but not sure I could give it a good beating with the tuning fork by then.


hey, wishin ya good luck,just in case,but i am sure they will get the issue sorted out quickly. 
most probably ,by then[april], u'll have ur processor back.
if not,i'll give you a hand laying mat


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just spoke with Eletromedia-USA. I should have the unit back in my hands tomorrow!!!! Keyword: "should" since I dont have the tracking number (Yoseff Phillips was working on getting that to me).

Now I must pray it is in proper working order with no issues.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Just spoke with Eletromedia-USA. I should have the unit back in my hands tomorrow!!!! Keyword: "should" since I dont have the tracking number (Yoseff Phillips was working on getting that to me).
> 
> Now I must pray it is in proper working order with no issues.


Excellent news. I'm hoping its 100% ready to go.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Excellent news. I'm hoping its 100% ready to go.


Me too!! I have a tracking number now, so I know she is on the way.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


>




Kevin,

Are the Audison Amps still wired this way regarding speaker wire? And is the "upper" one, the bridged one?

I ask because if the upper one is indeed the bridged amplifier, I believe you've wired each speaker to all negative terminals...


----------



## braves6117

Kevin,

I double checked the manual and if that picture is current, its incorrect. 

You need the speaker (+) and (-) for channel A to be wired to the red squares in this picture, and channel B to the yellow ones.











In essence, if you switch the circled inputs below to the positive inputs above, you'll be fine....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Braves you ARE the man!!!. How in the world did you catch this? You know I posted this diagram some time back?










I wired the amps according to this diagram. I studied the hell out of the manual on how to do this.... But after I got down to the nitty gritty clean up of the wiring, I had to move the Audison amps closer to the passengers side rear door. In doing so, I must have inserted those two wires in the wrong slots.

THANK YOU!

But it leaves me a question....how would a speaker operate AT ALL if both leads were wired to the negative on the amps? They do work now....maybe not optimally....

I am embarrassed.:blush:

I guess I can draw better than I can wire huh?


----------



## braves6117

Hahhahaaaa

I have no idea how they still "worked" per say, but I sure know they should sound a hell of a lot better now!!! :laugh:

I only noticed since I ran that amp as you know, and it was a hell of a time learning how. I could wire an Audison in my sleep


----------



## ARCuhTEK

They are still wired that way....they still work. Makes my heart skip a beat.

Because of the Bit One issues, I have not been paying attention to SQ (how could I with a digital honking duck flying around in my cabin?) b ut I do know that I have music coming from the midbass. But you at least have me excited that I have potential left in my system.

I have contacted the DIYMA forum member with the DSP-6 and let them know I will take the unit. I just need to move funds in my account on Monday and get them to him.

I will have a desire in my heart for the MS-8 should that sucka ever arrive.


----------



## braves6117

I have a feeling this is why you initially felt your midbass was "weak" 

It will LIGHT up now


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> I have a feeling this is why you initially felt your midbass was "weak"
> 
> It will LIGHT up now


Damn boy....I want to crawl under my hood right now and see what happens.....I will be out at the crack of dawn!


----------



## djr

jesus i know the feeling.. i am forever doing silly things.. but your system is savage..


----------



## ARCuhTEK

djr said:


> jesus i know the feeling.. i am forever doing silly things.. but your system is savage..


Savage...wow. I am flattered. Now if i could just get it completed so I coudl listen to it!


----------



## djr

well its true i am from the school of it has to work right before it looks right, but a audio newbie! 

you have but a lot of tought into all the pieces of your build and from the thread from start to finish, the build has being extremely well put together so that even a noob like me can learn a lot from it and for that i thank you


----------



## ARCuhTEK

djr said:


> well its true i am from the school of it has to work right before it looks right, but a audio newbie!
> 
> you have but a lot of tought into all the pieces of your build and from the thread from start to finish, the build has being extremely well put together so that even a noob like me can learn a lot from it and for that i thank you


Well thank you. I am a perfectionist, so the purpose of the build was to carefully document all my moves, problems and solutions. The F150, is a weird vehicle to install a decent audio system into...and as soon as I decided to move forward with it, I wanted to read as much as I could BEFORE I began. There was lots of information on the 2004-2008 F150 regarding audio installation. What I did find was a few photographs and threads documenting very real problems. Problems that were extreme enough to scare me almost into not starting the build. But I (in some cases) saw the problems but not the solution. I thought if I moved forward I should document my entire build in a very detailed way. Granted my build is not as sophisticated as some show cars (of course) and really does not have much in the way of custom pieces. What it does have is (as you say) a lot of forethought and your usual surprises.

Ther thread is very long, but if one is an F150 owner, and wants to DIY on an audio install, I suspect it would be very helpful. I assume, it might be helpful to non-F150 owners as well. But only if you care to read through and pay attention to it. I have had a lot of PMs come my way with people asking me questions, after "reading" my thread.....questions which are already answered in the thread. It is obvious they didnt read the whole thing or really pay attention. That having been said, the thread is long and i truthfully dont expect anyone to read it all.

Thank you for the compliments. I am glad you have enjoyed it. Now if I could just complete it with a fully finished and tuned system....


----------



## IBcivic

the error may have introduced ,when you cleaned up your wires...if memory serves correctly,you had it wired correctly , a few weeks ago......still sent me to verify my:blush:still unmounted:blush: ampr rack.


----------



## IBcivic

it probably explains why ur midbass was un-impressive[your initial impression]


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am getting old. I turn 40 this year. LOL I cannot remember for the life of me if I ever had it installed correctly. Let me go look in my photo archives.

I have some chores to do today....but I cannot wait to correct this!

Proof is in the pudding boys.....she was wired correctly before the wiring clean up. Check it out.
*
BEFORE*









you can barely see the error in the top corner of this photo.
*AFTER*









Man talk about not paying attention. Braves i still cannot believe you caught this....I would have figured you had better things to do besides scour my build photos, but rest assured I am VERY grateful for your time!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

By the way...for all you future builders. Now is a good time for me to make a comment about speaker end terminals and the Audison Lrx amps.

Note in the photos above, I originally had sleeved, gold plated end terminals on my speaker leads. Also, by virture of the audison amp design at the speaker outputs, you will notice that the "+" and "-" outputs are stacked one on top of each other.

Those outputs are so close to one another that they can physically touch. Bear with me here...look at the photos. The terminals I purchased are such that you slide the wire into the terminal end, screw it down, then push the sleeve/sheathing over it. Well the screw may or may NOT go all the way flush with the gold plated terminal. Meaning the screw, if not flush, presents a small "bump" that one can see even through the sleeve.

That darned bump, is JUST enough for the end terminals on the "+" and "-" to physically touch each other when plugged into the Audison amp.

How do I know? Because on my tweeter amp (the lower one with red heat shrink) during my initial power up...started smoking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



I quickly turned the truck off. I was prepared in that my hood was up and the ground wire on the battery was barely tight. I was only testing. Thank God! I ran around the truck and jerked the ground wire off. Now the speed of electricity is obviously a lot faster than this 40 year old dude....so I dont know if my efforts really saved the amp or if the issue was not enough to blow it. But she works great right now.

Upon investigation, the only thing I could find was those silly little bumps touching each other (well not EACH OTHER....but one bump touching the wire of another lead). EVEN THOUGH they were sleeved technically isolated from one another. When I did the wiring clean up, I tossed those end terminals and chose to just insert the wire with heat shrink as shown it the second photo above. Works like a dream.

Consider yourself warned.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> By the way...for all you future builders. Now is a good time for me to make a comment about speaker end terminals and the Audison Lrx amps.
> 
> Note in the photos above, I originally had sleeved, gold plated end terminals on my speaker leads. Also, by virture of the audison amp design at the speaker outputs, you will notice that the "+" and "-" outputs are stacked one on top of each other.
> 
> Those outputs are so close to one another that they can physically touch. Bear with me here...look at the photos. The terminals I purchased are such that you slide the wire into the terminal end, screw it down, then push the sleeve/sheathing over it. Well the screw may or may NOT go all the way flush with the gold plated terminal. Meaning the screw, if not flush, presents a small "bump" that one can see even through the sleeve.
> 
> That darned bump, is JUST enough for the end terminals on the "+" and "-" to physically touch each other when plugged into the Audison amp.
> 
> How do I know? Because on my tweeter amp (the lower one with red heat shrink) during my initial power up...started smoking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I quickly turned the truck off. I was prepared in that my hood was up and the ground wire on the battery was barely tight. I was only testing. Thank God! I ran around the truck and jerked the ground wire off. Now the speed of electricity is obviously a lot faster than this 40 year old dude....so I dont know if my efforts really saved the amp or if the issue was not enough to blow it. But she works great right now.
> 
> Upon investigation, the only thing I could find was those silly little bumps touching each other (well not EACH OTHER....but one bump touching the wire of another lead). EVEN THOUGH they were sleeved technically isolated from one another. When I did the wiring clean up, I tossed those end terminals and chose to just insert the wire with heat shrink as shown it the second photo above. Works like a dream.
> 
> Consider yourself warned.


dang..if 40 is old, i should start planning my next build.....the sq wheelchair,then......:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## denali804

Kevin, Not trying to question your skills here just trying to be helpful with your problem. I know that the bitone has major issues but I wanted to ask you if your headunit, bitone, and amps are all grounded to the distro block? If using the factory ground for your headunit you might want to change it because they are usually not really good. I know you don't have whine when connecting direct to amps from headunit, but a processor not grounded to same point as amps and headunit could induce noise. If you have a chance you might want to run some 8ga or 10ga wire from ground distro to headunit ground and see if anything changes. I know it won't solve the data noise. If you've tried that already or not interested in trying sorry for the post.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> Kevin, Not trying to question your skills here just trying to be helpful with your problem. I know that the bitone has major issues but I wanted to ask you if your headunit, bitone, and amps are all grounded to the distro block? If using the factory ground for your headunit you might want to change it because they are usually not really good. I know you don't have whine when connecting direct to amps from headunit, but a processor not grounded to same point as amps and headunit could induce noise. If you have a chance you might want to run some 8ga or 10ga wire from ground distro to headunit ground and see if anything changes. I know it won't solve the data noise. If you've tried that already or not interested in trying sorry for the post.



I know for certain the HU is not grounded to my distro block. I have not chosen to do this because the direct connection from Hu to amps cleared up the grounding problem.

I have a choice here.....ground HU directly to battery or run a new wire from HU to ditro block as you suggest. Many of the threads I have read concerning alt whine say grounding the Hu to the battery "-" terminal is best.

What do you think? Would it be a bad idea to do both (ground HU to battery and add in a second wire from the HU to the distribution block).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

HOLY ****!

I got the midbass wiring fixed and all I can say is DAMN.....the doors are resonating like a MF! I dont know if I can wait until summer to apply the sound deadening. Furthermore I have no baffle in place and that is likely the biggest problem. Sounds great AND like **** at the same time.

I owe you a beer Braves!


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> HOLY ****!
> 
> I got the midbass wiring fixed and all I can say is DAMN.....the doors are resonating like a MF! I dont know if I can wait until summer to apply the sound deadening. Furthermore I have no baffle in place and that is likely the biggest problem. Sounds great AND like **** at the same time.
> 
> I owe you a beer Braves!


 great news...i was starting to think my xls8 were gonna be underpowered with this amp....:drummer:


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> I know for certain the HU is not grounded to my distro block. I have not chosen to do this because the direct connection from Hu to amps cleared up the grounding problem.
> 
> I have a choice here.....ground HU directly to battery or run a new wire from HU to ditro block as you suggest. Many of the threads I have read concerning alt whine say grounding the Hu to the battery "-" terminal is best.
> 
> What do you think? Would it be a bad idea to do both (ground HU to battery and add in a second wire from the HU to the distribution block).


I would try a temporary wire from head unit to distro block and see if anything changes. I wouldn't run it under carpet just connect up front to headunit ground and drape wire back to the disto. If nothing changes leave that wire connected to distro and run a wire on the outside of truck from negative on battery back to distro with largest guage wire you have laying around that will fit in distro.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> I would try a temporary wire from head unit to distro block and see if anything changes. I wouldn't run it under carpet just connect up front to headunit ground and drape wire back to the disto. If nothing changes leave that wire connected to distro and run a wire on the outside of truck from negative on battery back to distro with largest guage wire you have laying around that will fit in distro.


That is exactly what I would do to test it. I am with ya.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

JUst wanted to report back in on my earlier post about the resonating of the midbass. I tweaked the settings and crossovers for the midbass on the Bit One. The mid bass were playing from 0 hz to 5000 Hz. So I think that resonance was actually distortion from the speaker at low frequencies.

I set the midbass up with a bandpass filter with the low pass being set at 60 hz and the high pass being set at 5000 hz. The system sounds really really good. I have a long way to go for tweak and tune and since I am switching to a Zapco DSP6, I dont want to mess with it much if any. I wanted to get the low, low freq. off of the midbass and having done that, it seemed to work. There is no resonance now (well none that really really annoy me).

My issue now is that of the 40 units of volume on the HU, the system is loud as hell at 22. I have the Bit One master Volume set at -12 (zero is max) Technically I shoudl be controlling my volume only with the Bit One remote. But I have to unplug the remote to get rid of that damned digital beeping. So for now I am forced to tune the volume with on the HU volume knob.

There is a LOT...LOT of potential here. For anyone looking at the Audison Lrx 300.4, especially in bi-mono bridging to only two speakers (as I have done with my midbass)....all I can say is WOW. WOW.....they are literally shaking the truck. The Bit One allows me to mute the subs, which I did...and man oh man...the air displacement by these little 6" suckers is pretty damned impressive to me.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> There is a LOT...LOT of potential here. For anyone looking at the Audison Lrx 300.4, especially in bi-mono bridging to only two speakers (as I have done with my midbass)....all I can say is WOW. WOW.....they are literally shaking the truck. The Bit One allows me to mute the subs, which I did...and man oh man...the air displacement by these little 6" suckers is pretty damned impressive to me.


it's too bad you got burnt with bad service on the bitone...if i ever do switch my pxa unit for a bitone...i'll make sure my dealer tests the one i'm buting ,right in front of my eyes.as for the great news on the 300.4 or 4.300 amp.....it got me all worked up and i actually went and worked in the 32 deg weather on my car. winter blues is almost over!!!


----------



## sgtpain988

I learned a lot from this thread. I used some of your ideas on my install. 

Jason


----------



## ARCuhTEK

sgtpain988 said:


> I learned a lot from this thread. I used some of your ideas on my install.
> 
> Jason


Awesome Jason! I am very glad I could help. Care to comment on which parts were of the most help? I see you used the caraflex, and I see how you did your amp board. What else....just curious. Cool set up....does she sound good?


----------



## sgtpain988

The caraflex, amp mounting on back wall, and all the great photos helped. I had my amps previously mounted under the seats but I wasn't happy with how that looked. I did a search on the net and found this thread and WOW! Lots of good information and photos. I had one of the Q-logic boxes for under the seat but didn't like how my Kicker 10" CVR dual 4ohm voice coil sub sounded. It seemed a little muddled. I decided to get a vented enclosure that would sit on the back seat behind the driver. It is a 1.3 cubic foot enclosure and it made a dramatic difference. It makes my eyes blur when it hits. I couldn't believe one 10 could hit so hard. Anyway, I'm not really sacrificing much space because my son is the only one that sits back there. I am using the Kicker 300.1 on the sub and the 100.2 on my four Kicker DS680's in the doors. If I needed to haul a bunch of people around, I could remove the box and flip the 100.2 into full range mode. Anyway, I just wanted you to know that your thread really helped me out and now I have room under my seat again for jumper cables and tools.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

sgtpain988 said:


> The caraflex, amp mounting on back wall, and all the great photos helped. I had my amps previously mounted under the seats but I wasn't happy with how that looked. I did a search on the net and found this thread and WOW! Lots of good information and photos. I had one of the Q-logic boxes for under the seat but didn't like how my Kicker 10" CVR dual 4ohm voice coil sub sounded. It seemed a little muddled. I decided to get a vented enclosure that would sit on the back seat behind the driver. It is a 1.3 cubic foot enclosure and it made a dramatic difference. It makes my eyes blur when it hits. I couldn't believe one 10 could hit so hard. Anyway, I'm not really sacrificing much space because my son is the only one that sits back there. I am using the Kicker 300.1 on the sub and the 100.2 on my four Kicker DS68's in the doors. If I needed to haul a bunch of people around, I could remove the box and flip the 100.2 into full range mode. Anyway, I just wanted you to know that your thread really helped me out and now I have room under my seat again for jumper cables and tools.


WOW...nice. Awesome. I carry two additional passengers about every other day (staff) so an under the seat sub was my only choice unless I wanted to do a custom center console on the rear seat. Nah....

I am glad to help!

Did you have any issues with removing the rear seat backrest?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here is a much requested thread on a tutorial of how I created my system diagram (graphic design tutorial) it is very lengthy and not yet complete. What you see there now, was all done today....I am worn out!! LOL

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/56580-how-i-created-graphic-design-layout-my-system-diagram.html


----------



## sgtpain988

I had no problem with the backrest thanks to your how to. Had it out in about 10 minutes.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

sgtpain988 said:


> I had no problem with the backrest thanks to your how to. Had it out in about 10 minutes.


----------



## alexarizpe

nice install man. i also have a f150 but cant seem to post yet


----------



## Niebur3

Very nice install....very good detail!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Thanks everyone. I have not posted here in a while because my Bit One issue is still on-going. I will start back up as soon as I have a signal processor


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Thanks everyone. I have not posted here in a while because my Bit One issue is still on-going. I will start back up as soon as I have a signal processor


hi kevin, has it warmed up enough to work on deadning yet?
lemme know,i'll bring the nitrile gloves and roller....lol

eta >this sunday night


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> hi kevin, has it warmed up enough to work on deadning yet?
> lemme know,i'll bring the nitrile gloves and roller....lol
> 
> eta >this sunday night


It has been warm but wet...lol. I am in Charleston SC for three days starting Friday. How long are you in for?


----------



## IBcivic

i will be in town until april 16th. still planning on using a dsp6?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> i will be in town until april 16th. still planning on using a dsp6?


Yeah I purchased two of them and my Audison dealer is still asking me to do trouble shooting on the Bit One. It is annoying, though I know he is only trying to help.

I will arrange a weekend to come down and let you listen. I just hope I have something installed by then. I have kinda lost my steam a little....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just goofing off with my photo editing program today....


----------



## Problemhouston

What is the tallest amp you think will fit back there? Or better yet what is the distance from the actual cab wall and the seat back?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> What is the tallest amp you think will fit back there? Or better yet what is the distance from the actual cab wall and the seat back?


First, if you have not removed the rear seat yet...it can be a *****. Here is a thread I posted on the easiest way to do it....F150 Rear Seat Removal 2004-2008 - MY WAY - F150online Forums

Well the back of the seat is sloped so there is more room at the bottom (to the rear wall) than there is at the top. In this photograph I have made for you you will see a dashed red line. In my opinion, anything above this line is a bad idea. I should say anything with a thickness of about one inch or more will rub against the back of the seat and the metal support bars embedded in the back of the seat.










In this image you can see my final setup. Notice the dashed red line is approximately where the dashed line is on the pic above. Notice that my sub amp is sitting with its top edge as far up as I can get it. The factor is that my sub amp is taller in height than the other two. So I had to put it lower on the wall (or as far up as I could..however you want to look at it).










The other two amps, if you will, are literally touching each other. They are low on the wall and yet the top edge of the top amp is crossing the line of where I wanted to mount it. It fits....but I have drawn a red arrow to show you some damage that has occurred to the painted surface of the amp. I learned this after reinstalling the seat. I now have the metal bar that is applying this damage, wrapped in foam to pad it a little. One thing to note is that the Audison Lrx300.4 amps (the blue ones) are TINY amplifiers...TINY compared to most. You might even be able to look them up and get actual dimensions. I can tell you the 300.4 is much smaller than the MACS.

Here are pics of all my amps for comparisons of size.


















Note the difference in length and height of all the amps? The *two* Audison amps are almost the same size as the MC431M in the middle of the table. Not quite, but not far off!

So to answer your question (and this is a guess form memory) any amp over 2 1/2" tall will present problems. Larger amps can be fitted to the rear wall, but it requires a lot more work and tweaking. If you plan multiple amps on the rear wall it will be really tough. I would say the clearance goes from 2 1/2" at the red dashed line to 3 1/2" at the corner of the floor to the back of the seat.


----------



## Problemhouston

Well that really blows a hole in any plans I had to use my Macs. I think I have an MC222 (110X2), MC427 (100X2), MC425 (50x2) and an MC444 (110X4). The last I checked I saw 4 amps in the back of my garage. I know I left one in my PT cruiser when I sold it but I should still have 4 left. There isn't a market around here to sell them to anyone and I work 14+ hours a day 4 days a week so it makes it hard to try and sell them over the net. GRRRRRRR

Know where I can get a good 5 channel amp with all 5 channels having the same wattage? Every 5 channel amp I have seen, the 5th channel is a sub channel. It's either that or I get the 6 channel JL g6600 and leave one unused.

I figure with the limited amount of space and for simlicity, I will try and get away with only using 2 amps.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> Well that really blows a hole in any plans I had to use my Macs. I think I have an MC222 (110X2), MC427 (100X2), MC425 (50x2) and an MC444 (110X4). The last I checked I saw 4 amps in the back of my garage. I know I left one in my PT cruiser when I sold it but I should still have 4 left. There isn't a market around here to sell them to anyone and I work 14+ hours a day 4 days a week so it makes it hard to try and sell them over the net. GRRRRRRR
> 
> Know where I can get a good 5 channel amp with all 5 channels having the same wattage? Every 5 channel amp I have seen, the 5th channel is a sub channel. It's either that or I get the 6 channel JL g6600 and leave one unused.
> 
> I figure with the limited amount of space and for simlicity, I will try and get away with only using 2 amps.



Sorry bro....

I would definitely post those suckers for sale here on DIYMA classifieds.


----------



## mSaLL150

I too had to wrap the metal bracket on the back of the seat with foam to keep it from rubbing my amps. I mounted all 3 of my amps vertically, it was the only way to fit them all without removing the window motor.


----------



## 05_sprcrw

Any update on the Bit one?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

05_sprcrw said:


> Any update on the Bit one?


Supposedly I will have a newly designed unit in May.


----------



## 05_sprcrw

so should i stray from the bit one seems like you have had more problems then its worth.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

05_sprcrw said:


> so should i stray from the bit one seems like you have had more problems then its worth.


In my opinion, if you can wait 30 days to purchase a SP, then you should absolutely buy one.


----------



## 05_sprcrw

I plan on getting an sp down the road like maybe two months I want to listen to the system without to see if I really do gain from it or not. I will be awaiting a review of the new one from you as well.


----------



## xer

I'm really inspired by your build. I hope I had the time to build and money to burn and the skills like you guys have. Have to hire an installer to have my system installed, still new to this hobby, I need to learn much more I think, before having the guts to tear my car apart 

very grateful for thread like this


----------



## ARCuhTEK

xer said:


> I'm really inspired by your build. I hope I had the time to build and money to burn and the skills like you guys have. Have to hire an installer to have my system installed, still new to this hobby, I need to learn much more I think, before having the guts to tear my car apart
> 
> very grateful for thread like this


YOu are very welcome for the thread. I hope you caught on to the fact that I did not have money to burn, which is why I chose to do the install myself. I also hope you noticed that this was my first build ever. I read this forum and others for a long time before jumping into it. In fact, even down to the last minute I was uncertain about my skill to be able to do the job. I found that as long as I was not looking for competition sound and aesthetics, I was able to do the job. I also have very minimal tools available to me.

My key to success (as I define it for me) was to be slow and calculated. Stop and ask questions here when I was stumped and of course I did learn the hard way on a few things. Overall, the truck is intact and the system sounds good (or will when my SP processor returns from the factory).

A lot of self gratification came out of the build and also posting this thread. You should try it!

My help along the way was from MSal150, Low E Red, Braves, Stinky and many amny others who chimed in here.

As you can see from my pics, there is ZERO custom work here. It is all in the factory locations. No fiberglass pods, no custom cutting....etc. The 1/2" MDF amp board covered in carpet was as custom as it got.

Trust me when I say ...if I can do it...you can do it.


----------



## 8675309

The ride is looking good. When are you going to do the car in the sig?

Always keep in mind your ground points and wire routing may be the most crucial part of your installs.

Love the LRX's and hope to see more work from you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

8675309 said:


> The ride is looking good. When are you going to do the car in the sig?
> 
> Always keep in mind your ground points and wire routing may be the most crucial part of your installs.
> 
> Love the LRX's and hope to see more work from you.


I will likely never do an install on the Cayman. It has fiber optics and I am not match for fiber optics.

The grounding points and wire routing were a main concern on my build. Thanks for the compliments and your interest. Since this thread really shows not much "custom" work compared to most DIYMA build threads....I am glad there is SOME interest in my thread! LOL


----------



## 8675309

I dont know why you say this is not custom work! If you do it yourself and put lots of time in it then it is custom work! It dont have to be flash to be custom work. I think everyone in this time thinks flash and fiberglass is custom work. The bottom line is,,,,, Sound is the key to custom work! 

Dont be scared of fiber!! Slap it in the face and let it be!! 

I am working on some fiber stuff on my upcoming car. """"Quote my wifes car UN Quoute"""" 

You should atleast do a sub in the front of the Cayman!!





ARCuhTEK said:


> I will likely never do an install on the Cayman. It has fiber optics and I am not match for fiber optics.
> 
> The grounding points and wire routing were a main concern on my build. Thanks for the compliments and your interest. Since this thread really shows not much "custom" work compared to most DIYMA build threads....I am glad there is SOME interest in my thread! LOL


----------



## ARCuhTEK

8675309 said:


> I dont know why you say this is not custom work! If you do it yourself and put lots of time in it then it is custom work! It dont have to be flash to be custom work. I think everyone in this time thinks flash and fiberglass is custom work. The bottom line is,,,,, Sound is the key to custom work!
> 
> Dont be scared of fiber!! Slap it in the face and let it be!!
> 
> I am working on some fiber stuff on my upcoming car. """"Quote my wifes car UN Quoute""""
> 
> You should atleast do a sub in the front of the Cayman!!


I have thought about putting a sub in the front boot...thats for sure!


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have thought about putting a sub in the front boot...thats for sure!


the best sounds come from the rear boot


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> the best sounds come from the rear boot


Or somewhere just behind the seat!


----------



## Problemhouston

ARCuhTEK

Do you have a picture of the back of the rear seat. I have been to your rear seat removal thread and didn't see one there either. I am in a quandary right now and am going to have to use what I got instead of going out and buying all new amps. Like I said I have close to 1,000 watts of McIntosh power just sitting in the garage and can’t bring myself to get rid of them to buy something of lesser performance. So my mountain of a task it so make the DANG THINGS FIT!!! In an effort to keep costs down I am going to try and buy used barter and trade my way to a really good system. OK enough of that... Now about the back seat. I have a buddy that works as a welder and I am sure he would be willing to notch the bar that is holding the seat together so I can get an extra ½ to an inch of clearance. Can you tell if that would be at all possible?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Unfortunately I do not have any pics of the back side of the rear seat. I would recommend spending the ten minutes it takes to pull the seat out....and just do it so you can be sure for yourself.

Sorry bud.


----------



## Problemhouston

ARCuhTEK said:


> Unfortunately I do not have any pics of the back side of the rear seat. I would recommend spending the ten minutes it takes to pull the seat out....and just do it so you can be sure for yourself.
> 
> Sorry bud.


That's cool. I'm not trying to be lazy but I work from 7:00 am to 9:00 pm so I try and do as much research and get as much info I can while I am sitting here at my first job. This helps better use my little amount of install time when I actally get some.

I AM GOING TO GET THE MACS TO FIT IF IT KILLS ME!!!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> That's cool. I'm not trying to be lazy but I work from 7:00 am to 9:00 pm so I try and do as much research and get as much info I can while I am sitting here at my first job. This helps better use my little amount of install time when I actally get some.
> 
> I AM GOING TO GET THE MACS TO FIT IF IT KILLS ME!!!


I probably gave up on my macs a little too early so I am behind you all the way. Prove me wrong!!  IF you do....you HAVE TO do a build thread here!!


----------



## m3gunner

Come on, Kevin... you love those Audisons... 

I tried to talk Problemhouston into swapping his McIntoshes for my a/d/s/ amps, but he's not biting. Maybe I should throw some Audisons into the mix... hmmmm...


----------



## Problemhouston

m3gunner said:


> Come on, Kevin... you love those Audisons...
> 
> I tried to talk Problemhouston into swapping his McIntoshes for my a/d/s/ amps, but he's not biting. Maybe I should throw some Audisons into the mix... hmmmm...


Because you are a fellow BMW owner I will entertain the idea.... What cha got?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

m3gunner said:


> Come on, Kevin... you love those Audisons...
> 
> I tried to talk Problemhouston into swapping his McIntoshes for my a/d/s/ amps, but he's not biting. Maybe I should throw some Audisons into the mix... hmmmm...


My Audisons are pretty darn kickin for how little they are....the K2P's are thumping in the doors!


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## m3gunner

AAArrrgggghhhh... The blasphemy...

I own Audis, not BMWs. Ugh... now I have to go wash my eyes... 

I'll drop you a pm.

Now, back to Kevin's build...



Problemhouston said:


> Because you are a fellow BMW owner I will entertain the idea.... What cha got?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

This is the only good photo I have of my 330i (purchase day! lol)


----------



## Erock

ARCuhTEK said:


> My key to success (as I define it for me) was to be slow and calculated. Stop and ask questions here when I was stumped and of course I did learn the hard way on a few things. Overall, the truck is intact and the system sounds good (or will when my SP processor returns from the factory).
> 
> As you can see from my pics, there is ZERO custom work here. It is all in the factory locations. No fiberglass pods, no custom cutting....etc. The 1/2" MDF amp board covered in carpet was as custom as it got.


Just wanted to say thank you for this thread! I just spent the last couple hours reading it from start to finish! I bought a 2004 F150 scab a few weeks ago and have been planning a system for it since then. What you wrote here pretty much sums up how I plan on approaching my build. I wasn't real confident about doing it myself but after reading this thread I feel pretty good about tackling the project.

In fact my plans are pretty similar to what you did. 2 way active components in the doors with single 10 under the rear seat. Fortunately I don't have Molex connectors or the motorized rear window to deal with on my truck.

I'm planning on basing my system around a Car PC so that will probably present its own issues though.:worried:

Thanks so much and I look forward to seeing more when you get the processor working!

Eric


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> This is the only good photo I have of my 330i (purchase day! lol)


kevin's cars sometimes makes me hate myself for not marrying my arcUHtec ex-girl friend.....j/k


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Erock said:


> Just wanted to say thank you for this thread! I just spent the last couple hours reading it from start to finish! I bought a 2004 F150 scab a few weeks ago and have been planning a system for it since then. What you wrote here pretty much sums up how I plan on approaching my build. I wasn't real confident about doing it myself but after reading this thread I feel pretty good about tackling the project.
> 
> In fact my plans are pretty similar to what you did. 2 way active components in the doors with single 10 under the rear seat. Fortunately I don't have Molex connectors or the motorized rear window to deal with on my truck.
> 
> I'm planning on basing my system around a Car PC so that will probably present its own issues though.:worried:
> 
> Eric


You are welcome Eric. I am glad i could help, even though I feel like my install was about as 101 as possible. So i never imagined I would actually help anyone. I figured I was just typing to hear myself type.

I am just starting to become interested in CarPc (carputers). I would sincerely like to know more about it...and am lurking in a few forums. So when you proceed, please do an install thread. I have never built a computer from scratch, but I am very computer savvy, so I think i could understand most things.

Thanks and good luck!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> kevin's cars sometimes makes me hate myself for not marrying my arcUHtec ex-girl friend.....j/k


You should kiss the ground that you DIDNT!! Architects are poor in the ways and means of most business aspects. Fortunately, I am far more ambitious than most.

Hey Stinky....will you be in NC on 5/29-5/30? If so there is a local meet near Charlotte.


----------



## Erock

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am just starting to become interested in CarPc (carputers). I would sincerely like to know more about it...and am lurking in a few forums. So when you proceed, please do an install thread. I have never built a computer from scratch, but I am very computer savvy, so I think i could understand most things.
> 
> Thanks and good luck!


I ended up here after lurking over at MP3Car.com for a few weeks. This will be my first computer build in many years. Last time I was a teenager messing around with spare 386 parts from my Dad's office. I'm less nervous about that part though than I am about tapping into the power and wiring on my truck.:worried: 

Should be fun!


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## ARCuhTEK

386...OMG thats a LONG time ago. hey I used to ski in ML! Nice place!


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## Hokieron

Any additional progress to report? Sweet install


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## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> You should kiss the ground that you DIDNT!! Architects are poor in the ways and means of most business aspects. Fortunately, I am far more ambitious than most.
> 
> Hey Stinky....will you be in NC on 5/29-5/30? If so there is a local meet near Charlotte.


^^^lolol....

i was lookin forward to being there and finally meeting the n.c. chapter of diyma'ers...but i was pulled off that job  to go to l-a and then on to hawaii[sux 2 be me]....but the brighter side of the story is that i will be heading home for a week off to work on my build!!!! finally. 
my acoustic elegance subs were shipped 2 days ago , so they will be waiting for their new home ,when i get back. i hope you guys post pics of the meet .


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!

My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!

THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!

I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!
> 
> My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!
> 
> THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!
> 
> I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.


 great news! 
anxious to read about your progress.


----------



## Problemhouston

ARCuhTEK said:


> Everybody DANCE now....da da da da na na naaaaaaaaa na!
> 
> My Bit One (third unit) has arrived....has been installed and is abSOOOlutely PERFECT!!
> 
> THE BUILD GOES ON!!!!
> 
> I will update the thread more as I start back with the doors and baffles.


Sweet!! How much work have you already done on your doors? I need to cover them in deadening materal and pick a midbass driver.

I finally got the rear seat out and am now missing a lot of skin off of my hands. All the metal is sharp back there.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> Sweet!! How much work have you already done on your doors? I need to cover them in deadening materal and pick a midbass driver.
> 
> I finally got the rear seat out and am now missing a lot of skin off of my hands. All the metal is sharp back there.


I have done zero work to the doors. Maybe this coming weekend.


----------



## joey0521

Kick A** install man. I was reading about it on F150Online and decided to come take a look on here. Keep up the good work.

Also, all together how much Damplifier do you think you will use? Im trying to get a guesstimate on how much I want to buy.


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## ARCuhTEK

I think I will sue the entire 80sf pack of Damplifer Pro and I am only covering 25% of the floor and zero of the roof and zero of the rear doors (for now).

Front doors begin tomorrow.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 26*

Number of days since last post, where actual work was performed on my truck: *67 days.*

Number of pages posted on the thread about things other than forward progress on my build, SINCE the last time I worked on the truck: *8*. I thought this was funny....15 page thread, of which 7-8 pages are just sitting around yappin waiting on the Bit One situation to be rectified.

*FORWAAARD MARCH!!!*

Day 27 hours: 8 (2 people times 4 hours)
*Total build hours: 92*

*Total number of days which have passed since build started: 115*

*Work done today:*
1. Apply three layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of the exterior sheet metal) of front doors.
2. Apply two layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of interior sheet metal) of front doors.
3. Create two midbass driver baffles as follows:

a. custom measure and cut two layers of 3/16" hardboard (also known as masonite) for EACH front door.
b. glue two layers together and let dry.
c. Apply fiberglass resin to new speaker baffle. Let cure (dry).
d. Install new baffle and driver.

4. I have now replaced the Focal K2P 6 1/2" with my Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L6's on ONE side only. I did this on purpose so that I could compare the two drivers head on under the same loading conditions. More about that below.

5. Custom cut one layer of 3/16" masonite and cover with resin. When dried, install it on the HUGE opening near the drivers side armrest.
6. Reconnect midbass and tweeters.
7. Reinstall door card and all components.
8. Result forced me to undergo another round of tweaking the system on the Bit One.1.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. Installing the sound mat on the interior face of the exterior sheet metal of the door was probably the most difficult sound mat install fo this entire build. While I was not cut at anytime, my forearms are scrapped to death. The sheet metal at the door, and all of its edges are SHARP!

2. The result of the sound mat in the door is UNBELIEVABLE. See below.

3. In general, the effort to do one door took 4 hours. Some of the eight hours spent were prepping for the drivers side door, which we did not even really begin. I assumed 3 hours per door, but was secretly hoping to do it in less.

*Next Tasks:*
1. Apply Damplifer Pro to drivers side door.
2. Re-wire remote amp turn-ons from Bit One.1. (wires currently too tight for my comfort).
3. Disconnet rear door speakers (currently faded to zero)
4. More tweak and tune on the Bit One.1. (RTA and scope)
5. Tint drivers and passenger door windows.
6. Refinish (apply new stain) to rhino lining at truck bed.
7. Enjoy the summer.

I have pictures, will post Monday.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

So I have to add a second post today. This is because I am totally floored by the result of applying sound deadening mat to just one front door. I can honestly say that anyone even remotely considering doing this aspect of a car audio installation would be a fool to NOT proceed with it.

I intentionally only completed one of the two front doors I intend to deaden. With the Bit One.1 signal processor, I was able to mute each speaker in my system, except the two midbass drivers. Furthermore, I was able to switch back and forth between the two midbass instantly and often to compare them (muting one while listening to the other) and finally I listened to them both simultaneously to compare their output.

The difference was unbelievable. First, the Legatia L6, sounded much better than the K2P but before you go dump your K2P's for L6's, I can say that I honestly felt it was because of the sound mat and not just because of the speaker design. The L6's had MUCH better response, sounded tighter with more clarity and were apparently more efficient (for lack of better words). I was able to adjust the output setting on the L6 (via the Bit One.1) such that the output level was almost 100% with no apparent clipping or distortion. I was just about to head to the amp to bump up the gain, when, after a few songs I did notice some distortion in the L6. So I pulled the output level back down a little and she fell right into place.

Also of interest, was the fact that the drivers door, with no sound mat, was clearly vibrating and resonating LOUDLY at the same output level setting at the L6. Since that driver is still mounted to the OEM location (door card), and the output levels have been increased (effectively), the resonance of the door is painfully obvious.

No doubt, the new baffle used to mount the L6 is coming into play here too.

I have a whole new excitement level about getting the drivers side door completed and sorting out the Bit One.1 and getting this system dialed in just right. While it is not a competition level system, it makes me smile from ear to ear.


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> So I have to add a second post today. This is because I am totally floored by the result of applying sound deadening mat to just one front door. I can honestly say that anyone even remotely considering doing this aspect of a car audio installation would be a fool to NOT proceed with it.
> 
> I intentionally only completed one of the two front doors I intend to deaden. With the Bit One.1 signal processor, I was able to mute each speaker in my system, except the two midbass drivers. Furthermore, I was able to switch back and forth between the two midbass instantly and often to compare them (muting one while listening to the other) and finally I listened to them both simultaneously to compare their output.
> 
> The difference was unbelievable. First, the Legatia L6, sounded much better than the K2P but before you go dump your K2P's for L6's, I can say that I honestly felt it was because of the sound mat and not just because of the speaker design. The L6's had MUCH better response, sounded tighter with more clarity and were apparently more efficient (for lack of better words). I was able to adjust the output setting on the L6 (via the Bit One.1) such that the output level was almost 100% with no apparent clipping or distortion. I was just about to head to the amp to bump up the gain, when, after a few songs I did notice some distortion in the L6. So I pulled the output level back down a little and she fell right into place.
> 
> Also of interest, was the fact that the drivers door, with no sound mat, was clearly vibrating and resonating LOUDLY at the same output level setting at the L6. Since that driver is still mounted to the OEM location (door card), and the output levels have been increased (effectively), the resonance of the door is painfully obvious.
> 
> No doubt, the new baffle used to mount the L6 is coming into play here too.
> 
> I have a whole new excitement level about getting the drivers side door completed and sorting out the Bit One.1 and getting this system dialed in just right. While it is not a competition level system, it makes me smile from ear to ear.


 imo the fact that you plugged up the large opening in the door,also had something to do with your results....any pics???


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> imo the fact that you plugged up the large opening in the door,also had something to do with your results....any pics???


Absolutely no doubt about it. I failed to mention that as well. Yes I have pics but as usual the cable I need to download pics off the camera is at work. I will load them on Monday.


----------



## Hokieron

ARCuhTEK,

Would you happen to know the dimensions on the large hole you covered in the door? I am thinking about using Lexan for this but I would like to know what size it is before I decide. Thanks for any assistance and nice install and I appreciate all of the detail you have provided in the log.epper:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hokieron said:


> ARCuhTEK,
> 
> Would you happen to know the dimensions on the large hole you covered in the door? I am thinking about using Lexan for this but I would like to know what size it is before I decide. Thanks for any assistance and nice install and I appreciate all of the detail you have provided in the log.epper:


Even though I have the second piece ready to install, I do not have it at my house, so I cannot say for sure (today). If you want exact dimensions, I can give them to you tomorrow (when I do the drivers door).

If you want a ballpark guess, I think a 24"x24" piece of lexan would cover one hole. Hmmm....as I go over it in my mind, it may be slightly larger than 24" . Let me see if I can get that dimension for you. I would hate for you to order a piece that is too small on my account.


----------



## Hokieron

ARCuhTEK said:


> Even though I have the second piece ready to install, I do not have it at my house, so I cannot say for sure (today). If you want exact dimensions, I can give them to you tomorrow (when I do the drivers door).
> 
> If you want a ballpark guess, I think a 24"x24" piece of lexan would cover one hole. Hmmm....as I go over it in my mind, it may be slightly larger than 24" . Let me see if I can get that dimension for you. I would hate for you to order a piece that is too small on my account.


Thanks and I can wait to get the dimensions. I am still in the gathering materials stage so that is no problem. One other quick question, how did you run your RCA's? I was planning to run mine down the center hump to the back wall and was trying to figure out how long to order them.

When you deaden the other door, are you going to compare the speakers again to give it a fair comparison? Just curious.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hokieron said:


> Thanks and I can wait to get the dimensions. I am still in the gathering materials stage so that is no problem. One other quick question, how did you run your RCA's? I was planning to run mine down the center hump to the back wall and was trying to figure out how long to order them.
> 
> When you deaden the other door, are you going to compare the speakers again to give it a fair comparison? Just curious.


I ran only one pair of RCAs from the HU down the center hump to the back wall. My pair were 12 feet long. If you look at my pics, I am going to a signal processor located under the rear seat. So I go to the wall, then do a u turn and head back toward the front for about 18 inches. The 12 feet ended up being just right, if not ever so slightly too short. Meaning....if it were any shorter it would not work. But it does. Just consider that and where exactly you will be taking the RCAs. If you are going down the center and then up the wall (and taking some in direct path along the wall) to the amp, then 12 feet will be too short.

I wish I could compare the K2P to the L6 and I suppose I could. But the fact of the matter is the L6's are significantly bigger than the K2P's in mounting diameter. I have already cut my baffles for the L6, so once the door card is removed...the K2P's are going to their new owner, my best friend, who has earned the right to own them for helping me so much.

So no, there will be no side by side comparision of the K2P and L6 both in sealer, matted doors. Had I known the difference it woudl really make, I would have made a second set of baffles for the K2P's JUSTTTTTTTTT in case they sounded better than the L6's But, you have to know me...once I commit, I commit. I committed to allowing him to have the K2P's for helping me (Actually I have given him an entire audio system minus the HU). 

Speaking of that I think I will list his system (all of which I have purchased and given to him):

HU (OEM so far)
HAT L1v2 tweeters
Focal K2P 165w mid bass
Rockford Fosgate 25 to Life LE Punch 1000 5 (or is it 6) channel amp.
Zapco DSP 6 signal processor
ZAPCO DRC SL single DIN remote control for DSP 6
All symbilink transmitters and cables.
All 1/0 ga. power and ground wire
All 4 ga power and ground wire
All RCAs (not needed now that we went with symbilink)
All 14 ga. speaker wires.
all distro blocks and fuse holders.
wire terminal connectors for the Big 3/4.
Tech flex.
Q logic subwoofer enclosure (actually he paid me for this)
choice of two subs: IDQ10v2 or Sound Splinter DVC RLi-10 

He chose the IDQ (he thinks there is a problem with the SS, so we will test it tomorrow).


Wow.....he f******g made out like a bandit!!!

There is more to the story. He has helped me tons over the years and he loves car audio. He is also unemployed. So I WANTED to do something nice for him. He has worked with me patiently since the beginning of this build, and I have used his tools tons and his garage. His wife has fed me dinner so many times it is not even funny. I am cutting into his family time and yet he is just as nice as can be and helps out at the drop of a hat. I have been occupying his time is seems almost nightly.

It is the least I could do.

Since my system should be done by May 23rd, I cannot wait to help him with the above set up. Yep...its all still in the boxes.


----------



## IBcivic

true freindship is priceless


----------



## Hokieron

Excellent point of reference. It was just the information I was looking for, thanks.

Did you have 2 of the Q Logic boxes or did you decide to go another route for your sub? 

I think what you have done for your friend is very nice and I am certain it was greatly appreciated by him considering his situation at the moment. I know that both of you have learned a tremendous amount during this install as have I just watching it unfold here. Keep us updated...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hokieron said:


> Excellent point of reference. It was just the information I was looking for, thanks.
> 
> Did you have 2 of the Q Logic boxes or did you decide to go another route for your sub?
> 
> I think what you have done for your friend is very nice and I am certain it was greatly appreciated by him considering his situation at the moment. I know that both of you have learned a tremendous amount during this install as have I just watching it unfold here. Keep us updated...


At one point I had three Q Logic boxes. One I gave to him, one I used and one I sold. I have never had any plans for two subs given the lack of room in the F150. I know some have done two 12's with a seat lift, but I have to say that my one 10 with 500w is hella plenty for me.


----------



## pylda

Just a note...I added a layer of ensolite over the raamat on the rear wall and it made a huge difference. I am going to add that to the doors as well. It will basically be the same cut out as the plastic barrier that we have to take out of our F150 doors.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> Just a note...I added a layer of ensolite over the raamat on the rear wall and it made a huge difference. I am going to add that to the doors as well. It will basically be the same cut out as the plastic barrier that we have to take out of our F150 doors.


Thanks for letting me know. After the layers of damplifier pro, the door cards barely fit back on the door. I have no room for another layer of anything. Was it expensive?


----------



## pylda

RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening

Not too bad at all if you ask me. I bought several yards. It will go inside the doors next. On the back wall worked nice. I didnt even plug the vents.


----------



## mSaLL150

ARCuhTEK said:


> Thanks for letting me know. After the layers of damplifier pro, the door cards barely fit back on the door. I have no room for another layer of anything. Was it expensive?


Mine barely go back on with a few layers of deadener as well, so I couldn't add any foam to the outer skin. I added luxury liner pro to the inner door skin and mounted deflex pads to it behind the mids. That made a good difference.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> Mine barely go back on with a few layers of deadener as well, so I couldn't add any foam to the outer skin. I added luxury liner pro to the inner door skin and mounted deflex pads to it behind the mids. That made a good difference.



OHHHHHHH man you just reminded me of something. I have 10 sf of LL Pro. I FORGOT to add it to the interior of the door skin!! 

Do you think you need both the LL Pro and a deflex pad? I looked into that a little and decided that both were not necessary. If you can tell me why both are needed, I will certainly reconsider. Sometimes all the properties of sound transmission and absorption/reflection can be confusing. So applying the appropriate remedies, where necessary can also be confusing.

I am doing the drivers door today. So I should install the LL Pro and consider the difference before I go cutting into the sound mat of the passenger door (to add the LL Pro).

Thanks!


----------



## Problemhouston

What does a comp set of the Legatia L6's go for?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> What does a comp set of the Legatia L6's go for?


I purchased mine as part of a small group buy here on DIYMA. I got the L1v2 tweeters and the Legatia L6's as a package deal. IRC I paid $525 not including shipping.

Do not misread my review above as saying the L6's are better than the K2P's. Just by weight alone, the K2P look to be a more substantial driver. As far as sound goes, the L6's (seem) to be a better sounding driver. But I am not running them in equal enclosures at the moment so it is not a fair comparison.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Build photos for front door sound deadening installation.

The baffles are two layers of 3/16" thick masonite, glued, then covered in fiberglass resin (no fibers). Then painted flat black.

I do not have photos of the very large panel I made to cover the HUGE hole in the drivers door. But it is made of one layer of 3/16" masonite, covered in resin (no paint).

You can see the before and after and tell the large panel is installed with the sound mat over the panel and the hole.

If I were to do it again, I would do this out of 1/2" MDF then bevel the back edge of the speaker opening, then cover in resin, then paint. What I have works, it was just more work than necessary, because we "thought" we were saving effort. Not so much.

The resin is to help the baffles to prevent absorbing water and moisture.























































More tomorrow.


----------



## lsm

Wow, that's a lot of detail.


----------



## pylda

Nice work Kevin. How did you make the template to cover the big hole?? I had a hard time trying to cut some metal flashing to fit. I may try with masonite now, since you had success. I just cant figure out how to make the template.


----------



## IBcivic

imho , the space between the the l-6 and the plastic,should be sealed with a closed cell foam gasket of some sort. it should improve your sound by preventing sound waves from migrating ,to and/or from, behind the inner door trim....just a thought.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> imho , the space between the the l-6 and the plastic,should be sealed with a closed cell foam gasket of some sort. it should improve your sound by preventing sound waves from migrating ,to and/or from, behind the inner door trim....just a thought.


Very interesting thought. Any idea how to limit the expansion of the foam? Are you suggesting that I just need (basically) a ring of foam? Hmmm..thinking out loud here...I know where I can find styrofoam rings, and I wonder if that would not be better (more controlled, better looking) solution? I can dig the expanding foam, but it never really has a clean edge and I wonder how you would make it look good as a surround at the perimeter of the speaker? How do you provide a boundary to stop it from flowing all over the interior of the door card?

Any images of examples where this has been done?


----------



## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Very interesting thought. Any idea how to limit the expansion of the foam? Are you suggesting that I just need (basically) a ring of foam? Hmmm..thinking out loud here...I know where I can find styrofoam rings, and I wonder if that would not be better (more controlled, better looking) solution? I can dig the expanding foam, but it never really has a clean edge and I wonder how you would make it look good as a surround at the perimeter of the speaker? How do you provide a boundary to stop it from flowing all over the interior of the door card?
> 
> Any images of examples where this has been done?


pardon my french structured english,kev....i meant a regular urethane foam ring. i try to avoid using expanding foam due to the messy , sticky and un-predictable nature of it


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hokieron said:


> ARCuhTEK,
> 
> Would you happen to know the dimensions on the large hole you covered in the door? I am thinking about using Lexan for this but I would like to know what size it is before I decide. Thanks for any assistance and nice install and I appreciate all of the detail you have provided in the log.epper:


I have the dimensions for you now.

The hole in the door can be covered with a piece of material that is 24" wide and 12-13" tall. The hole in the door is at an angle, as you can see in my pics. So the dimensions I am giving you will cover the hole, plus about 1/2" extra (so you can mount the cover plate of the exterior of the hole) all the way around.

See my next post for how I made the template.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> Nice work Kevin. How did you make the template to cover the big hole?? I had a hard time trying to cut some metal flashing to fit. I may try with masonite now, since you had success. I just cant figure out how to make the template.


Plyda, I really didnt know how I was going to make the template, other than my old trick of using cardboard and cutting it in pieces like I did to make my rear amp wall. But then as I looked at the hole, a thought dawned on me.....and it worked.

I cut a piece of masonite roughly 14"x28", then I was "going" to put it against the door and use my drawing skills to try and sketch the opening as accurately as possible. Just as I placed the masonite against the door the top corner slipped inside the large opening in the door and I had an epiphany. I will try and fit the entire 14"x28" piece inside the door cavity and then trace the edge of the opening onto the masonite.

It worked.

After tracing the entire edge, I then put it on a table and used a scribe (or you can use a compass) and scribed a 1/2" outline onto the masonite. This was to create a quasi flange on the board to allow it to be mounted with (sheet metal) screws to the door.

I flipped it over and made a second one for the drivers door. But be aware that there is one small difference on the drivers door (an additional clip on the door card, directly under the door lock. I will post pictures of this tomorrow.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> pardon my french structured english,kev....i meant a regular urethane foam ring. i try to avoid using expanding foam due to the messy , sticky and un-predictable nature of it


Ahh you and the French Canadians....lol

I guess I misunderstood and went off on one of my mind travels.

I will look for a urethane foam ring. Not sure where to look but I will post any findings here.


----------



## IBcivic

mind travel? did you find my stash in charlotte??? <<<<j/k!

something like this or a variation on the idea

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/45898-2008-chevrolet-colorado-build-log-10.html


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> mind travel? did you find my stash in charlotte??? <<<<j/k!
> 
> something like this or a variation on the idea
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/45898-2008-chevrolet-colorado-build-log-10.html


Thanks! I posted on his thread to inquire!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*Day 27*

Day 27 hours: 5 (2 people times 2.5 hours)
*Total build hours: 97*

*Total number of days which have passed since build started: 116*

*Work done today:*
1. Apply three layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of the exterior sheet metal) of front drivers door.
2. Apply two layers of Damplifer Pro Sound Mat to interior face (of interior sheet metal) of front drivers door.
3. Install one 18" x 30" piece of Luxury liner Pro inside drivers door cavity.
4. Install new baffle and driver.
5. Install custom masonite cover plate on the HUGE opening near the drivers side armrest.
6. Reconnect midbass and tweeters.
7. Reinstall door card and all components.

*Surprises along the way:*
1. None today....all went well!

*Next Tasks:*
1. Re-wire remote amp turn-ons from Bit One.1. (wires currently too tight for my comfort).
3. Disconnet rear door speakers (currently faded to zero)
4. More tweak and tune on the Bit One.1. (RTA and scope)
5. Big 3/4 upgrade.
6. Tint drivers and passenger door windows.
7. Refinish (apply new stain) to rhino lining at truck bed.
8. Enjoy the summer.

I have pictures, will post tomorrow.


----------



## pylda

What did you use to secure the luxury liner in the door?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> What did you use to secure the luxury liner in the door?


The Second Skin spray adhesive: Sound Deadening Materials - Spray Gun Adhesive Glue


----------



## pylda

Kevin, in case I havent done so before...I wanted to thank you for this thread. You have done a great job of detailing your build. You have been a huge help for me. I have never attempted anything to do with car audio before, but after reading this and getting your help, I have started my first build. Thanks a ton man!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> Kevin, in case I havent done so before...I wanted to thank you for this thread. You have done a great job of detailing your build. You have been a huge help for me. I have never attempted anything to do with car audio before, but after reading this and getting your help, I have started my first build. Thanks a ton man!


Very welcome. I too am a rookie. This thread represents my first build ever. DIYMA gave me lots of info to survive it myself. I hope no one reads this and thinks I am in expert, because a true professional would pick it apart from page one. But I can tell you this.....in the last two weeks, the sound is getting better and better. Once I get a few so called experts to assist me with RTA, O-scope and some final teak and tune....it will sound awesome in my opinion. Well quiet frankly, I think it sounds awesome right now. But I am the deaf novice...literally.

I can tell you I did NOT notice a difference after doing all the work on the drivers side door tonight. None at all. But remember this...I am 100% deaf in my left ear. So I could take out the tweeters and mids on the drivers side and NEVER know the difference. Sucks....but its true.

The drivers side drivers and sound mat..etc are all of other listeners besides me.

Glad to be of help!

I still want to post, as a final log, my full materials lists, costs, etc. I will have to post what I spent in total, versus what I actually used. For example...I purchased three signal processors, but only used one. I purchased three sets of tweeters, three sets of mids, four differents subs, six amps, enough wire for 2 1/2 F150 builds, TONS of distro blocks, fuses, fuse holders...etc. I need to have a sell...because I have TONS of brand new, in the box stuff I have never used. I even have a full scale DSP signal processor, with symbilink cables....the full set up...sitting in my garage. All brand spankin new.

Did I mention that I am an anal over achiever who is also an impulsive buyer? LOL

One day I will look back on this install and laugh. Or maybe not!


----------



## pylda

When is the sale???


----------



## mSaLL150

ARCuhTEK said:


> OHHHHHHH man you just reminded me of something. I have 10 sf of LL Pro. I FORGOT to add it to the interior of the door skin!!
> 
> Do you think you need both the LL Pro and a deflex pad? I looked into that a little and decided that both were not necessary. If you can tell me why both are needed, I will certainly reconsider. Sometimes all the properties of sound transmission and absorption/reflection can be confusing. So applying the appropriate remedies, where necessary can also be confusing.
> 
> I am doing the drivers door today. So I should install the LL Pro and consider the difference before I go cutting into the sound mat of the passenger door (to add the LL Pro).
> 
> Thanks!


The main reason i used both was because I bought both and had them laying around. The LLP absorbs sound, the deflex pads deflect it so sound waves go throughout the door and not bounce straight back toward the rear of the driver. Are both needed? Probably not. But I had them both when i did the doors, so hell why not?

I still need to fully seal my big door holes though. I'll be doing that when I get some free time.

How many sheet metal screws did you use on each of the masonite boards for the big holes? I HATE drilling in these doors, the double layered sheet metal pwns my drill bits.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> When is the sale???


Anytime. I wanted to finish my build and I am very very close. I will post a notice here on this thread at the same time I post a classified here. It will exclusively for sale on DIYMA.

Have anything you need in particular?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mSaLL150 said:


> How many sheet metal screws did you use on each of the masonite boards for the big holes? I HATE drilling in these doors, the double layered sheet metal pwns my drill bits.


You know, with my drawing skills I should just post a PDF template of the cover plate I made out of masonite. LOL.

You will be VERY VERY happy to know that, if using self tapping sheet metals screws around "the big hole" they went into the metal like butter. I was prepared for an all out fight.....and they instantly went through the masonite and through the "single layer of sheet metal" and seated. Done. 

I used 6 screws per cover plate. I then applied my sound mat over it, as seen in the photos. Quiet frankly it was one of the easiest things I did throughout the entire build.


----------



## InjunV18

Kevin, glad to see you get the sound deadening done. Ready to see you and the rest of the folks on the 29th. If you don't mind, PM me a list of the stuff you're looking to sell and maybe you can toss some of it in the truck for the meet in 2 weeks and save ourselves the shipping.


----------



## Hokieron

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have the dimensions for you now.
> 
> The hole in the door can be covered with a piece of material that is 24" wide and 12-13" tall. The hole in the door is at an angle, as you can see in my pics. So the dimensions I am giving you will cover the hole, plus about 1/2" extra (so you can mount the cover plate of the exterior of the hole) all the way around.
> 
> See my next post for how I made the template.


Thanks Kevin. That was just what I was looking for and will be very helpful. Excellent detail and sweet install.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

InjunV18 said:


> Kevin, glad to see you get the sound deadening done. Ready to see you and the rest of the folks on the 29th. If you don't mind, PM me a list of the stuff you're looking to sell and maybe you can toss some of it in the truck for the meet in 2 weeks and save ourselves the shipping.


I had planned on bringing some of the stuff, especially the ZAPCO DSP6 and cables. I will PM you a list, but I have to sort through it and I will likely photograph it too.

Give me about a week (I know time is running out).

Thanks for the idea.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Someone above asked me how much sound mat I used on my doors. I did not count sheets on the passenger side door, but I did on the drivers side door. I think it is safe to say that they are similar in mat detail.

I used 8 sheets of Damplifier Pro, each of which is 12"x20" or 1.66 sf. That equates to 13.28 sf of Damplifer Pro per door. If you look at the DP products offered on the Second Skin Audio website, they sell door packs that are 13sf! That is a complete coincidence on my part. I just noticed that I used 13sf +/- and the Door Pack is 13sf. Well there you go!

To take that to another level, I reference the specifications from Second Skin Audio as follows:

Specification:
Adhesive = Viscoelastic butyl rubber - 99.94% solids content
Weight = .68 lbs per sq. foot
Foil thickness = 6 mils (6/1000")
Total thickness = 80 mils (70/1000")
Thermal limit = 400 degrees f.
Sheet Size = 12" x 20" (1.66 sq. ft. ea.)

Using the weight of 0.68 lbs/sf times 13.28 sf = 9.03 lbs of sound mat added to each door.

Lets go one more level of detail.

I ordered and used all but two sheets of Damplifier Pro Shop Pack (80 sheets at $289.97) for my entire install. So that means I used 78 sheets.

78 sheets x 1.66 sf per sheet = 129.28 sf of coverage.
129.48 sf x 0.68 lbs/sf = 88.04 lbs of sound mat added to the truck.

As a refresher, these 78 sheets covered both front door (did not do rear doors), the rear wall and about 25% of the floor near the rear wall (stopped almost at the back side of the front seats). I did not do the roof.

So I think it could be said that I was generous in my application/installation of the mat.

I will probably only use half of the Luxury Liner Pro. I ordered one sheet/roll at 9 sf. Keep in mind I did not use ANY on the floor.


----------



## kritiostodd

ARCuhTEK said:


> Anytime. I wanted to finish my build and I am very very close. I will post a notice here on this thread at the same time I post a classified here. It will exclusively for sale on DIYMA.
> 
> Have anything you need in particular?





ARCuhTEK said:


> I purchased ... enough *wire *for 2 1/2 F150 builds, TONS of *distro blocks, fuses, fuse holders*...etc. I need to have a sell...because I have TONS of brand new, in the box stuff I have never used.


Definitely keeping an eye on this! I'm getting ready to replace the OEM speakers in my Jetta, and build a fiberglass sub enclosure in the underutilized space in my trunk to replace my current box in order to take back trunk space for a baby stroller. :laugh:

I'm going to need lower gauge power wire for the battery to distro block run, plus fuses, fuse holders. 

Great thread, too! I've been reading this from the start, and like many others have said, it's an inspiration.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

kritiostodd said:


> Definitely keeping an eye on this! I'm getting ready to replace the OEM speakers in my Jetta, and build a fiberglass sub enclosure in the underutilized space in my trunk to replace my current box in order to take back trunk space for a baby stroller. :laugh:
> 
> I'm going to need lower gauge power wire for the battery to distro block run, plus fuses, fuse holders.
> 
> Great thread, too! I've been reading this from the start, and like many others have said, it's an inspiration.


I have over $200 worth of fuses....I dont know what I was thinking. I only used one at the battery and four at the distro. I will keep a spare and sell the rest. I have many different "types" of fuses as well as ratings. Chalk it up to not quite understanding a few key parts of pre-planning and the car audio business.

Hey its okay...I am never afraid to admit I am wrong!! LOL


----------



## Problemhouston

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have over $200 worth of fuses....I dont know what I was thinking. I only used one at the battery and four at the distro. I will keep a spare and sell the rest. I have many different "types" of fuses as well as ratings. Chalk it up to not quite understanding a few key parts of pre-planning and the car audio business.
> 
> Hey its okay...I am never afraid to admit I am wrong!! LOL


Well seeing how I have the same truck, number of amps and processors just mock up what you used for wire, distro and fuses then give me a price...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Problemhouston said:


> Well seeing how I have the same truck, number of amps and processors just mock up what you used for wire, distro and fuses then give me a price...


Will do. Give me a day or two.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Drivers side door sound mat/baffle photos.

Interior face of exterior sheet metal covered in 2-4 layers of sound mat. Also note the area of Luxury Liner Pro installed directly behind midbass driver and covers about 50% of interior cavity surface area.











Interior face of interior sheet metal covered in 2-4 layers of sound mat. Masonite cover plate installed over the infamous "huge hole" and covered in sound mat. Masonite mid bass baffle installed.










Masonite midbass baffle with HAT Legatia L6 midbass driver installed.


----------



## BigRed

Like those L6's  keep it coming


----------



## ARCuhTEK

BigRed said:


> Like those L6's  keep it coming


Coming from you that is a compliment....oh wait....I didnt make the speaker!

Build is almost over...but the L1Pro and L6 set is really a star....very nice and when listening to the right songs...the punch is hard! But I cannot reveal any SPL tenancies on here.....shhhh.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*PRE - SALE POSTING.......EARLY WARNING!!!*

This package deal is about to be listed in the Classifieds here on DIYMA and also Ebay.

Because you have been following thread, you will get a 24 hour advanced notice. Everything gets posted tomorrow.

I have an entire Zapco DSP6 plus DRC-SL, plus cables......package deal which is getting listed first.

I will then post a bunch of install stuff like distro blocks, fuses, RCAs, terminal blocks and a friggin ton of screw terminals for 1/0 ga wire and 4 ga. wire.

I am NOT going to post the price here, because I am still sorting through what I paid for each item....so if interested in something specific, PM me and I will work with you on it.

Please....I do not want to spend half a day shipping one strand of wire....it will benefit us both if you see a few things you like. Dont ask me to sale or ship anything unless you think you offer is $50 or more. I would rather just keep it. I will be reasonable about the DSP6.....everything else I will likely let it go for some stupid price as long as you pay shipping.

Also...be patient...I am posting TONS of photos....so keep checking back.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

DSP 6
DRC-SL remote and all wiring / accessories (black cables)
Installation CD
Installation Manual
Original USB cable
12' Symbilink cable
3 RCA to symbilink transmitters
3 Symbilink to RCA cables (3 feet in length HARD TO FIND).

This is a COMPLETE system. I would rate its condition as an 8 out of 10. I would give it a 9 but it is dusty and I didn't clean the casing off.

I have NEVER used this, because I own another DSP 6 (which I might also be selling in the next week). The DSP 6 came from a very good DIYMA member who is well known. I wont disclose the name, just to protect their privacy, but if you are serious about buying this package I will let you know privately.

I paid $550 for the DSP6 (used)
I paid $250 for the DRC-SL (used) and accessories
The symbilink cable prices vary, but I think I paid close to $100.

So my cost was approximately $900, not including shipping costs. Price for this package will be *$750.* 

You will basically not need anything else to install one of the best 6 channel signal processors available on the market today.









































































PM me.....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here is the rest of the stuff....just trying to inventory it at this point...






















































*ALL WIRING SOLD
ALL Battery Terminals SOLD
ALL speaker wire SOLD.
ALL distribution blocks SOLD.*


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*ALL WIRING SOLD
ALL Battery Terminals SOLD
ALL speaker wire SOLD.
ALL distribution blocks SOLD.*


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*ALL WIRING SOLD
ALL Battery Terminals SOLD
ALL speaker wire SOLD.
ALL distribution blocks SOLD.*


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Memphis PR100.4 amplifier (listing this in classifieds today)


----------



## 05_sprcrw

wow lots of great gear for sale here!


----------



## Babs

Oh Crap Kevin.. I saw the amp but took the time to read the post.. You've got a veritable buffet of goodies there!! Crap on a stick!! I should sneak over there to see you maybe and score some stuff to stash for whenever I can actually consider some kind of install.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Babs said:


> Oh Crap Kevin.. I saw the amp but took the time to read the post.. You've got a veritable buffet of goodies there!! Crap on a stick!! I should sneak over there to see you maybe and score some stuff to stash for whenever I can actually consider some kind of install.


Feel free to do that....it would save me a lot of time and shipping boxing etc. I will let it go for uber cheap....well, reasonable cheap.

My friend Grady and I figured up we have enough stuff for almost four installs....lol I only meant to buy enough for 2 installs.

Review the pics and send me a PM with a pic or two included and let me know if anything interests you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Crap I have already gotten several PMs.....going fast!


----------



## jmanneff

Wow, nice install. Very inspiring as well. I have actually gone back and changed some of my sketch ups to look more like some of the things that you have.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

More gear for sale.....here first, then classifieds:

I have two, brand new...in box, ready to ship TWO DIYMA 12 subs....awesome product....and as a member here you know all about this baby:










Asking $150 each, NOT including shipping. Each box weighs 40 lbs.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Damn I found more stuff today: No pics yet:

6 5x7(6x8) ----> 6 1/2" adapters (two aluminum, the rest is a special material....not plastic, not high density foam..will have to look it up again).

About 1 million feet of techflex (two diameters....umm 1/2" and 3/8"..will have to look again)

About one million feet of black wire loom (large enough for 1/0 ga.)

Two 10" MDF sub enclosure spacer rings 3/4" thick. One side has black fabric on it.

I have more ****. hell I dont even know what I own. All purchased in the last 6 months...NONE ever used. I even found about six different (in addition to the ones previously posted) symbilink cables. And now I am almost ready to list the second Zapco DSP 6 for sale.

You see...I am a compulsive buyer. New car dealers love me.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Back to the install for a moment.

I had to remove my door cards again today and remove the luxury liner pro from the cavity. 

The heat is not allowing it to stick to the Dampilifer Pro in a vertical position. I know others have done this, but mine is not working out.

Any tips?


----------



## IBcivic

i'd try a high strength brush-on contact cement. or give injunv18 a buzz, his spray-on stuff seems to be workin well for him.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> i'd try a high strength brush-on contact cement. or give injunv18 a buzz, his spray-on stuff seems to be workin well for him.


Cool...I will! In Hawaii now?


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## IBcivic

still in reno...flying tomorrow.... memorial day sun-tan[burn] on the way...lol


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## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> still in reno...flying tomorrow.... memorial day sun-tan[burn] on the way...lol


Gotta get your swa-kini on for the burn!

Enjoy!


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## IBcivic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Gotta get your swa-kini on for the burn!
> 
> Enjoy!


new trunks....not too revealing,i hope..:laugh:


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## ARCuhTEK

stinky06 said:


> new trunks....not too revealing,i hope..:laugh:


Man...Borat needs to learn about waxing...he is one hairy dude!
Crazy as hell too.....lol


----------



## pylda

I wondered about using the spray on stuff for the LL. Let me know what you end up going with Kevin. I have some LL to go in the doors as well.

IDEA - What about adhering it to the panel with the spray adhesive and then using raamat or dynamat around the edges of the LL?


----------



## IBcivic

pylda said:


> I wondered about using the spray on stuff for the LL. Let me know what you end up going with Kevin. I have some LL to go in the doors as well.
> 
> IDEA - What about adhering it to the panel with the spray adhesive and then using raamat or dynamat around the edges of the LL?


i dont know about that ...butyl gets rather soft ,when hot....imo
if it really needs to be taped around the edges.....get mil spec duct tape....it's permanent...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

If I had to do it all over again, the very first thing I would do, before applying ANY sound mat is apply the LL Pro in the following way:

First the surface I would rather cover is the outside face, of the inside sheet metal of the door. Did you get that? Not the face of sheet metal the door card is attached to, but the same metal, just the side facing the outside of the truck. For the F150, there is quite a bit of sheet metal here.

So I would install, using sheet metal screws, a few thin strips of wood or HDPE plastic. I cannot say how much...would just have to make that call as I worked. Then I would use the spray adhesive to attached the LL Pro to those strips. Spray adhesive will stick to wood or plastic better than aluminum. Then I would screw the LL Pro mat in one or two places (to keep it from sagging/slumping) to the strips.

Then I would apply sound mat to the door just as I show above.

A couple of advantages. a) If you do as I have done in applying sound mat, I have covered most every surface of the door cavity. But sound mat does not absorb sound. My installation, as it stands now, leaves the outside face of the inside sheet metal bare. By applying LL Pro to that face, you effective cover not just two surfaces with mat, but two surfaces with mat and a third surface with sound absorption material. Now you have three total surfaces treated (in some manner) instead of two. 

b) you have created a say for the sound mat to stay put instead of taking any chances and having to remove your door panels multiple times, like I have.

Still...any new ideas are welcome.


----------



## pylda

What if you applied it with the foam side of the LL facing the inside of the truck? Instead of gluing the foam side to the outer sheet metal.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> What if you applied it with the foam side of the LL facing the inside of the truck? Instead of gluing the foam side to the outer sheet metal.


The LL is meant to absorb sound from the midbass in the interior cavity of the door (at least in the way I am attempting to use it). Putting it on facing the interior of the truck (between metal and door card) would not absorb anything (or very much) since that would mean the LL is between the plastic door card and the sound mat. Plus, the door card barely fits on now, so I dont have the available thickness to add the LL.


----------



## pylda

ARCuhTEK said:


> The LL is meant to absorb sound from the midbass in the interior cavity of the door (at least in the way I am attempting to use it). Putting it on facing the interior of the truck (between metal and door card) would not absorb anything (or very much) since that would mean the LL is between the plastic door card and the sound mat. Plus, the door card barely fits on now, so I dont have the available thickness to add the LL.


What I meant was...is there a reason why you couldnt flip the LL over and glue the other side to the door? The same spot, just flipped. Would that work and hold better?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pylda said:


> What I meant was...is there a reason why you couldnt flip the LL over and glue the other side to the door? The same spot, just flipped. Would that work and hold better?


I am not an LL expert, but I think the LL has an optimal side and a side that gets the glue. I will go read again on the SS site to be sure.


----------



## Coheednme13

#1 what is your goal for the LL pro? - Such as to keep out noise from entering the cab?

#2 what did you use to install it the first time? - Did you use spray adhesive or contact cement?

#3 are you installing with the vinyl barrier toward the outside or inside of the truck? - What side did you apply adhesive to?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Coheednme13 said:


> #1 what is your goal for the LL pro? - Such as to keep out noise from entering the cab?
> 
> #2 what did you use to install it the first time? - Did you use spray adhesive or contact cement?
> 
> #3 are you installing with the vinyl barrier toward the outside or inside of the truck? - What side did you apply adhesive to?


My goal is sound absorption within the cavity of the door.

I used Second Skin Audio spray adhesive

I applied it with the vinyl barrier facing the inside of the truck, but keep in mind it is on the outside sheet metal of the door. So it is facing the inside cavity of the door, just as you would install a backwave pad.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> The LL is meant to absorb sound from the midbass in the interior cavity of the door (at least in the way I am attempting to use it). Putting it on facing the interior of the truck (between metal and door card) would not absorb anything (or very much) since that would mean the LL is between the plastic door card and the sound mat. Plus, the door card barely fits on now, so I dont have the available thickness to add the LL.


I would disagree with this. A friend of mine added foam in between the door and panel and it made a HUGE difference and he doesn't even have speakers in his doors.


----------



## Coheednme13

I installed my LL pro on the outer metal(closest to the outside of the door) with the vinyl facing inward which is the correct way so that is good. I installed it over deadener. Mine has stayed firmly adhered. I used 3M super trim adhesive from the auto part store put a layer on the deadener in the door and a layer on the LL pro and gave them time to flash and all was good.

Is that the problem it is having trouble adhering to the door?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> I would disagree with this. A friend of mine added foam in between the door and panel and it made a HUGE difference and he doesn't even have speakers in his doors.


Really? I am not sure how the sound would get to it in order for the absorption to actually work. I am not debating the results of your friends install, but rather saying...the sound waves from inside the cabin will hit the hard plastic door card first, thereby reducing the LL's ability to absorb sound. Notice I said reduce, not eliminate. Perhaps enough sound reaches it, for it to still maek a difference. Thanks for your input. I will reconsider my method.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Coheednme13 said:


> I installed my LL pro on the outer metal(closest to the outside of the door) with the vinyl facing inward which is the correct way so that is good. I installed it over deadener. Mine has stayed firmly adhered. I used 3M super trim adhesive from the auto part store put a layer on the deadener in the door and a layer on the LL pro and gave them time to flash and all was good.
> 
> Is that the problem it is having trouble adhering to the door?


Precisely. And my install is exactly as you have stated on yours.

I either 
a) didnt allow enough tack time for each surface before joining them or

b) it was too hot outside when I did it

or 

c) the SS adhesive is not strong enough.

or

d) all of the above.


----------



## pylda

Please keep us informed on what you decide to do to solve your problem. You correct solution will probably be what I decide to do.


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## ARCuhTEK

well I have a bit of a problem. Remember the "BIG HOLE" in the door? Well its all constructed and sealed. I really hate to undo it. I pulled the speaker baffle off and pulled the LL through that hole to remove it.

I swear I dont know if I have the energy to pull the cover plate off the Big Hole and reinstall LL.


----------



## pylda

ARCuhTEK said:


> well I have a bit of a problem. Remember the "BIG HOLE" in the door? Well its all constructed and sealed. I really hate to undo it. I pulled the speaker baffle off and pulled the LL through that hole to remove it.
> 
> I swear I dont know if I have the energy to pull the cover plate off the Big Hole and reinstall LL.


Understood.


----------



## jrfonte

ARCuhTEK said:


> Here is the rest of the stuff....just trying to inventory it at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ALL WIRING SOLD
> ALL Battery Terminals SOLD
> ALL speaker wire SOLD.
> ALL distribution blocks SOLD.*





ARCuhTEK said:


> *ALL WIRING SOLD
> ALL Battery Terminals SOLD
> ALL speaker wire SOLD.
> ALL distribution blocks SOLD.*


keven just out of curiosity when are you going to finish your truck? its been going on forever now. and what all was you planning on putting in this truck with all this stuff you bought  ? i think that would be enough to do 4 f150's lol but anyways i havent visited in a while and just wanted to chime in and say keep up the good work.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> Really? I am not sure how the sound would get to it in order for the absorption to actually work. I am not debating the results of your friends install, but rather saying...the sound waves from inside the cabin will hit the hard plastic door card first, thereby reducing the LL's ability to absorb sound. Notice I said reduce, not eliminate. Perhaps enough sound reaches it, for it to still maek a difference. Thanks for your input. I will reconsider my method.


We were both surprised as well but it made a VERY noticeable difference, especially in the midrange. 

He didn't use LL though. It was either foam or maybe even some TacMat, I'll have to ask him.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

jrfonte said:


> keven just out of curiosity when are you going to finish your truck? its been going on forever now. and what all was you planning on putting in this truck with all this stuff you bought  ? i think that would be enough to do 4 f150's lol but anyways i havent visited in a while and just wanted to chime in and say keep up the good work.


Ummm....the truck is finished, hence the reason all the gear is for sale.

As for all the products, it is in fact for more than one F150, but as you know, systems designs change as you go and it more or less evolves. For example, most of the screw ring terminals was for multiple big 4 upgrades. four wires times two rings per wire is 8.....times two F150's is 16. As stated above, I purchased enough gear, including components, amps, signal processors, HU's for two complete installs. I had 7 subwoofers, two sold and two were installed. The other three will go with me to the meet today in NC.

Additionally, I like purchasing multiples of things just to audition them out, and I dont mean just speakers. Some things work well, some things I like some things I dont. Funny thing is, the pictures only show about half of what I have to offer. I just got tired of photographing it! LOL

Any gear left over will be given to a local teenager as a graduation gift, to upgrade her current system ( I have no doubt I will have enough left over, plus some).

In fact...I may just give a lot of it away to clean my coffers.


----------



## Low_e_Red

Come on Kevin, whatever happened to just donating unused stuff to me...?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Low_e_Red said:


> Come on Kevin, whatever happened to just donating unused stuff to me...?


Are you currently doing a personal install?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

After one official tuning session with a DIYMA member, here is a pic of my frequency response. Not too bad....need a little tweak here and there but it sounds good as is....










I think I am going to change out my subwoofer, as it is not blending as well as it could.


----------



## bertholomey

This truck did sound very good at the meet last week - I wish I could have heard it with the BM hooked up. I wish you had been able to listen to my set up with one SI Mag - let me know if you make it over to the Greensboro area sometime if it is before our mini-meet.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bertholomey said:


> This truck did sound very good at the meet last week - I wish I could have heard it with the BM hooked up. I wish you had been able to listen to my set up with one SI Mag - let me know if you make it over to the Greensboro area sometime if it is before our mini-meet.


Thanks! I am so new to this, it was good to get input, though not many people save me input on the scene (more post thread remarks, which is good too).

I did want to hear your ride, but it was full most of the day. Sheesh had to take a ticket! Although, if you saw my comment from the meet thread, you know I am about as useful for feedback as a warthog with t**ts.

I guess that makes it seem like all take and no give....but you dont know how much I wish I have the anatomical audio tools to give you feedback.


----------



## BlackFx4InTn

what are the door cards? I've seen you mention it quite a few times but still dont know what you're referring to.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

BlackFx4InTn said:


> what are the door cards? I've seen you mention it quite a few times but still dont know what you're referring to.


Fancy term for the plastic door panels.


----------



## BlackFx4InTn

-when you relocated the remote module, did you have to drill any new holes behind that trim piece, or did you use 2 of the few holes already existing there?

-What kind of distro blocks are those? They look like stingers, but whats the model #. Also the second set of distro blocks (+/-) feeding off the 4 ga, what are those?


Sorry for all of the questions, I'm just now relocating my amps to the back wall and your build has helped me out a lot. I'm sure I can think of more.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

When I relocated the remote module, I used sheet metal screws and made new holes. It literally took about 5 mins to relocate it from start to finish.

The main distro block are:

Ground: Stinger, Model: SHD21
Stinger SHD21 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) HPM Distribution

Power:
Stinger. Model SHD821
Stinger SHD821 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) Distribution

or 

Singer HPM MIDI Fused Distribution Block

*I have several of these left over if you need one or more.*

The triangular one in the photos allows me to input 4 ga and output 8 ga....but I use it to output 12 ga.

It is a P3 Platinum Distribution Block 1x4

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=263-672

There are so many distribution blocks on the market (fused and non-fused) it is not even funny!! I recommend Parts Express and Darvex and good, reliable sources.


----------



## BlackFx4InTn

ARCuhTEK said:


> When I relocated the remote module, I used sheet metal screws and made new holes. It literally took about 5 mins to relocate it from start to finish.
> 
> The main distro block are:
> 
> Ground: Stinger, Model: SHD21
> Stinger SHD21 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) HPM Distribution
> 
> Power:
> Stinger. Model SHD821
> Stinger SHD821 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) Distribution
> 
> or
> 
> Singer HPM MIDI Fused Distribution Block
> 
> *I have several of these left over if you need one or more.*
> 
> The triangular one in the photos allows me to input 4 ga and output 8 ga....but I use it to output 12 ga.
> 
> It is a P3 Platinum Distribution Block 1x4
> 
> Parts-Express.com3 Platinum Distribution Block 1x4 | distribution power block amplifier p3powerbloc
> 
> There are so many distribution blocks on the market (fused and non-fused) it is not even funny!! I recommend Parts Express and Darvex and good, reliable sources.


cool, exactly what I needed to know. thanks


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## jr5166

Do you have any pictures of the finished product?


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## ARCuhTEK

Other than the photographs above, not really. The truck looks 100% stock on the inside. So that would not look any different than perhaps any other F150. The last photos I posted were the ones with the back seat off showing the amp wall. That is all that is particularly interesting about my install. Nothing exciting, from a custom standpoint, but I suppose more informative from the "challenge" standpoint on getting amps and etc. on that back wall.


----------



## jr5166

Where did you mount the sub? I only saw door speakers installed.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

jr5166 said:


> Where did you mount the sub? I only saw door speakers installed.


You only saw doors speakers installed in this thread? Really? Hmmm. I just checked and post 205 has some good pics of the amps, sub, etc.


----------



## jr5166

Sorry, yes I saw the great job on the amp mounts and I am going to do something similar in my 2009. I just have a few concerns on sub box location. I still didn't see a sub in the pics unless that grey plastic in the lower right hand corner of the last picture was it?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

jr5166 said:


> I still didn't see a sub in the pics unless that grey plastic in the lower right hand corner of the last picture was it?


Yes that "grey plastic" with the speaker wires running to the sub amp is my sub enclosure.


----------



## mears

Do you have a link to those clips you used for wire organization?

EDIT - Just out of curiosity, did you take a look at the enclosures from supercrewsounds before deciding on the Q-Logic? I'm thinking about picking up one for my '09 SCrew.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Time to look at one or two BM MkIII's for my set up....and the head unit is wigging out...

It has been a while since I paid attention....who has some ideas on a new two way front stage 6.5" (price is really not much of a concern) on the market now that are SWEET!!!?


----------



## bertholomey

Hey Kevin - good to see you on here again. I think you would really like those BMs - I have heard them in 2 of my friends cars, and they really performed.

I'm enjoying my Seas drivers. We should schedule a little G2G for the guys in the area to listen to some options. We had a great meet in March. 

Jason


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Thanks Jason and I agree on the G2G. Which SEAS? What do you know about Hertz Millie ML165s? I have my eye on some but have never heard them. The reviews are better than Focal K2Ps which I loved and miss. Those are hard to find now and the tweet was too tinny.


----------



## Timelessr1

Hey Arch...awesome install!

I tooka look at your system diagram and noticed you have the focals listed there, but in your pictures you have the L6's the reason I'm asking is I have the L1pro tweeters, and the L6's and I'm going to be running them active in my f150. I was just curious which mids you were actually running.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Timelessr1 said:


> Hey Arch...awesome install!
> 
> I tooka look at your system diagram and noticed you have the focals listed there, but in your pictures you have the L6's the reason I'm asking is I have the L1pro tweeters, and the L6's and I'm going to be running them active in my f150. I was just curious which mids you were actually running.


Great catch...I never updated my system diagram from the Focal K2P to the HATs that are in my truck now. 

I have the L1 Pros and the L6 Legatia midbass. But I am switching them to Hertz within the next 30 days. No reason....the L6's sounded great. I just like change. I am looking at the Hertz Mille, 165xl's and a couple of others.

I will updated my system diagram along with the change and repost. I had posted the diagram on here and a few people procured it and proceeded to put photoshop graffiti all over it and repost it. Not sure what that was all about, but whatever. I guess they thought I was bragging, but the truth is, before this install started, I knew absolutely nothing about car audio. Compared to these folks, I still dont. But I was and am very proud of my install, the research I did to get it completed and the great folks who did help me along the way. I purchased most of my equipment in the classifies here or through group buys on DIYMA. I am an Architect and Graphic Designer. I had a great time putting together the system diagram and was somewhat confused and sad that people felt the need to bust my chops over it.

Ahh such is life...meanwhile, I took a hiatus to install a new kitchen in my house...but I dare not post pics of that. Although a little youtube search and you might find it.


----------



## Timelessr1

ARCuhTEK said:


> Great catch...I never updated my system diagram from the Focal K2P to the HATs that are in my truck now.
> 
> I have the L1 Pros and the L6 Legatia midbass. But I am switching them to Hertz within the next 30 days. No reason....the L6's sounded great. I just like change. I am looking at the Hertz Mille, 165xl's and a couple of others.
> 
> I will updated my system diagram along with the change and repost. I had posted the diagram on here and a few people procured it and proceeded to put photoshop graffiti all over it and repost it. Not sure what that was all about, but whatever. I guess they thought I was bragging, but the truth is, before this install started, I knew absolutely nothing about car audio. Compared to these folks, I still dont. But I was and am very proud of my install, the research I did to get it completed and the great folks who did help me along the way. I purchased most of my equipment in the classifies here or through group buys on DIYMA. I am an Architect and Graphic Designer. I had a great time putting together the system diagram and was somewhat confused and sad that people felt the need to bust my chops over it.
> 
> Ahh such is life...meanwhile, I took a hiatus to install a new kitchen in my house...but I dare not post pics of that. Although a little youtube search and you might find it.


Ahhhhh....nice! So you never actually ended up installing a dedicated midrange driver (4inch)? I was a bit worried that i'd be missing a gap in quality frequencies by just going with a 7 inch woofer and a tweeter. If i decided to install a 3way vs the HAT Active 2 way it would become extremely expensive AND a much larger install, since i'd have to add another 2 channels to run the mids, then additional xovers to do a bandwith for the mids, and then a custom fiberglass install to get them mounted. Its good to know that just the L6 and L1 weer able to sound good minus a 4 inch. 

I really appreciate you going through the trouble of posting your progress, since I'm sure it has helped tons of ppl with their install...me included since I'm installing in a 2010 F150 supercrew. I used to be head deep in the audio scene back in the late 90's, including invitations to the IASCA finals. I also took a hiatus from car audio for a decade, and am now getting back into with my new truck. 

As for the idiots who disfaced your diagram, jsut take it with a grain of salt. These forums are like big cities.....you have some extremely smart individuals which help the city thrive and move forward, and then you have the thugs , thieves and general mental infants who unfortunatley bring the city down...dont let those types get to you! Great install, and great documentaion!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Timelessr1 said:


> Ahhhhh....nice! So you never actually ended up installing a dedicated midrange driver (4inch)? I was a bit worried that i'd be missing a gap in quality frequencies by just going with a 7 inch woofer and a tweeter. If i decided to install a 3way vs the HAT Active 2 way it would become extremely expensive AND a much larger install, since i'd have to add another 2 channels to run the mids, then additional xovers to do a bandwith for the mids, and then a custom fiberglass install to get them mounted. Its good to know that just the L6 and L1 weer able to sound good minus a 4 inch.


I would love to hear my truck with the mid range components. As you may or may not know from the install thread, I have the amp capacity set up to install the mids. I even ran the speaker wire for the mids. With the Bit One.1, I have the signal processing capability to install the mids. What I do not have is the room in the truck to install the mids, without going custom, nor do I have the tuning knowledge to tackle the 3-way set up. That said, I really did not want to get into custom fabrication and that was the stopper. I could find someone to help me with the tuning. I had a DIMYA friend to help tune a couple of the Bit One programmed presets for a true SQ profile. But I tuned a few other presets for my taste, with certain genres in mind. 

I almot forgot to mention...I sold my subwoofer and sub box. I purchased two 12" SI BM MkIII from this forum group buy thread and I am awaiting their arrival. I will have a friend help me custom fabricate a box for under the seat for those puppies. As you know, one thing leads to another, and I will be abandoning the DLS A4 sub amp for a black Audison Lrx 2.9.

I have high hopes none of these swap outs will take more than a day or two of now and again work.

Seems like I have quite a bit of work to do on the system diagram!


----------



## Timelessr1

ARCuhTEK said:


> I would love to hear my truck with the mid range components. As you may or may not know from the install thread, I have the amp capacity set up to install the mids. I even ran the speaker wire for the mids. With the Bit One.1, I have the signal processing capability to install the mids. What I do not have is the room in the truck to install the mids, without going custom, nor do I have the tuning knowledge to tackle the 3-way set up. That said, I really did not want to get into custom fabrication and that was the stopper. I could find someone to help me with the tuning. I had a DIMYA friend to help tune a couple of the Bit One programmed presets for a true SQ profile. But I tuned a few other presets for my taste, with certain genres in mind.
> 
> I almot forgot to mention...I sold my subwoofer and sub box. I purchased two 12" SI BM MkIII from this forum group buy thread and I am awaiting their arrival. I will have a friend help me custom fabricate a box for under the seat for those puppies. As you know, one thing leads to another, and I will be abandoning the DLS A4 sub amp for a black Audison Lrx 2.9.
> 
> I have high hopes none of these swap outs will take more than a day or two of now and again work.
> 
> Seems like I have quite a bit of work to do on the system diagram!


At least you have the processor and 2 extra channels for the mid. If i was to do it, i would need the processor/x-over, another 2 channel JL amp, and then the mids, and then the fabrication to install them. I think i might be passing on the dedicated midrange for mow.

I also ordered two 12" SI BM's...they are going to be running off my JL 1000/1 I'm just waiting on an update from Nick on when the fisrt shipments are going out, since I orderd them the first day the "buy" opened up


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## ARCuhTEK

And the F150 Build 2017 has begun.....

I will update the system diagram soon....but here are some new toys...


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## optimaprime

Ohhhhhhh yummy helix


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## ARCuhTEK

EFFIN PHOTO BUCKET..... As many of you already know, Photobucket has changed to a FOUR HUNDRED DOLLAR PER YEAR hosting plan for any user who wants to embed a photo (originally uploaded onto their server) into a third party website like DIYMA. I know this has been debated a bunch elsewhere/everywhere. It just pisses me off and I hope they fail because some nut job decided to get greedy.

I have plenty of options to host my photos elsewhere but the whole thing just screws up so many existing threads it is sick....

Total extortion...


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## ARCuhTEK

BY the way....I FINALLY GOT THE HEIX DSP PRO MK2 signal processor in and for the first time in 3 years I have tunes!!! The helix was so much easier to install than the Bit One.1 I have not done my tweaking yet....just crossovers, TA and a flat eq for now and in 2 weeks after I get this thing fully dialed in, I may hate the way it sounds right now, but after 3 years of silence it currently sounds glorious!!!

Oh...one VERY VERY important note. Many people here know how much engine whine I had with the Bit One.1....well....NOT EVEN A PEEP of engine whine from the Helix. It sounds as quiet while driving (engine whine) as it does with the engine off. I was so happy when I fired it up...I just cannot tell you. WOOT!!!!

Furthermore, you may also know my FIRST Bit One has such a bad electrical issues, I had to send it back the mfr. I tried to tell them that there were two issues...the beep/beep/beep chatter and also massive engine whine. They exchanged it but the new, improved Bit One.1 still has the crazy whine. Well, having just exchanged out to the Helix, with the same exact wiring, now I know it was not my fault in my wiring, or a ground loop issue...etc.

I do have a left mid bass that is totally dead...but I suspect it is a loose wire and the midbass is getting no power. I checked all the connections I could see with the eye...all good. So I guess I have to pull off the door panel and take another look in the cavity at the speaker connections. I SECRETLY hope the speaker is dead so I can justify new AF mids! But seriously....that is how good this system sounds....I am missing an entire midbass...lol I am not saying I would rival your system...I am just saying it sounds better than 3 years of no audio at all.

I look forward to my new lease on audio life.  Much thanks to Babs and other Helix owners. This was the missing piece!!


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## miniSQ

ARCuhTEK said:


> BY the way....I FINALLY GOT THE HEIX DSP PRO MK2 signal processor in and for the first time in 3 years I have tunes!!! The helix was so much easier to install than the Bit One.1 I have not done my tweaking yet....just crossovers, TA and a flat eq for now and in 2 weeks after I get this thing fully dialed in, I may hate the way it sounds right now, but after 3 years of silence it currently sounds glorious!!!
> 
> Oh...one VERY VERY important note. Many people here know how much engine whine I had with the Bit One.1....well....NOT EVEN A PEEP of engine whine from the Helix. It sounds as quiet while driving (engine whine) as it does with the engine off. I was so happy when I fired it up...I just cannot tell you. WOOT!!!!
> 
> Furthermore, you may also know my FIRST Bit One has such a bad electrical issues, I had to send it back the mfr. I tried to tell them that there were two issues...the beep/beep/beep chatter and also massive engine whine. They exchanged it but the new, improved Bit One.1 still has the crazy whine. Well, having just exchanged out to the Helix, with the same exact wiring, now I know it was not my fault in my wiring, or a ground loop issue...etc.
> 
> I do have a left mid bass that is totally dead...but I suspect it is a loose wire and the midbass is getting no power. I checked all the connections I could see with the eye...all good. So I guess I have to pull off the door panel and take another look in the cavity at the speaker connections. I SECRETLY hope the speaker is dead so I can justify new AF mids! But seriously....that is how good this system sounds....I am missing an entire midbass...lol I am not saying I would rival your system...I am just saying it sounds better than 3 years of no audio at all.
> 
> I look forward to my new lease on audio life.  Much thanks to Babs and other Helix owners. This was the missing piece!!



Glad you are loving the Helix, one thing to check if you haven't already, its easy to mute a speaker without knowing it. Check your software if you haven't already to see if you accidentally clicked Mute for the bad driver.


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## Timelessr1

ARCuhTEK said:


> BY the way....I FINALLY GOT THE HEIX DSP PRO MK2 signal processor in and for the first time in 3 years I have tunes!!! The helix was so much easier to install than the Bit One.1 I have not done my tweaking yet....just crossovers, TA and a flat eq for now and in 2 weeks after I get this thing fully dialed in, I may hate the way it sounds right now, but after 3 years of silence it currently sounds glorious!!!
> 
> Oh...one VERY VERY important note. Many people here know how much engine whine I had with the Bit One.1....well....NOT EVEN A PEEP of engine whine from the Helix. It sounds as quiet while driving (engine whine) as it does with the engine off. I was so happy when I fired it up...I just cannot tell you. WOOT!!!!
> 
> Furthermore, you may also know my FIRST Bit One has such a bad electrical issues, I had to send it back the mfr. I tried to tell them that there were two issues...the beep/beep/beep chatter and also massive engine whine. They exchanged it but the new, improved Bit One.1 still has the crazy whine. Well, having just exchanged out to the Helix, with the same exact wiring, now I know it was not my fault in my wiring, or a ground loop issue...etc.
> 
> I do have a left mid bass that is totally dead...but I suspect it is a loose wire and the midbass is getting no power. I checked all the connections I could see with the eye...all good. So I guess I have to pull off the door panel and take another look in the cavity at the speaker connections. I SECRETLY hope the speaker is dead so I can justify new AF mids! But seriously....that is how good this system sounds....I am missing an entire midbass...lol I am not saying I would rival your system...I am just saying it sounds better than 3 years of no audio at all.
> 
> I look forward to my new lease on audio life.  Much thanks to Babs and other Helix owners. This was the missing piece!!



Awesome!! Your story sounds soooo familar ;-)


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## NaamanF

Whats going into the 2017? 

I have a 2017 Raptor SCREW that I put a simple system into and the audio bug has got me again, so it probably won't stay simple for long.


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## ARCuhTEK

miniSQ said:


> Glad you are loving the Helix, one thing to check if you haven't already, its easy to mute a speaker without knowing it. Check your software if you haven't already to see if you accidentally clicked Mute for the bad driver.


I learned that pretty quickly with the software interface, so I have already checked the various mutes buttons. I was at it for over 12 hours yesterday and so sometimes it is just better to close shop and get some rest and start fresh the next day (today). I hope it is nothing serious like a blown amp channel. I can do 2 or 3 easy things, like reversing RCAs to check stuff like that. It is rare for a speaker to just stop, so it could be a mute button, or a loose wire. Kind of weird but such is DIY life. 

I also learned just how easy it is to accidentally link a high and mid channel when adjusting crossovers, all the while thinking you were linked to two tweeters. It sounded like **** and quick.... I instantly knew something was wrong. But those heart stopping moments when you hit the HU mute button faster than Shazam can change clothes!! 

I will say this....I have, since the original install, been intentionally set up for a 3 way system with the amp channels and speaker wire already installed to final location. This Helix DSP will make adding in my third channel easy as pie (in terms of just getting it online). It is much easier than the Bit One. It is also MUCH easier to change your input output set up in the Helix software.

Oh and by the way...for anyone reading this who has a Helix. Do not ignore the portion of the owners manual that tells you how to remove the metal cover plate and adjust the input sensitivity of your inputs (A-H) one by one using the individual potentiometers. There is another thread on DIYMA discussing this and quite a few people thought it was not necessary, but frankly it was super easy and quick to do, so why not. Obviously Helix wants you to be able to do it easily and it is part of the set up in the OM....so just do it. If I can do it you can do it.

I have some committments this morning but looking forward to getting back in the truck and getting this figured out and improved.


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## Babs

Woot woot! Glad you're digging the Helix. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## ARCuhTEK

Quick update.... Missing midbass was due to my left channel RCA being plugged into the second channel of the same amp, which, by my set up, is for future addition of a mid-range driver. So in other words....relocated RC to correct channel in same amp and BOOM! We have full lift off. Tuning time. Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield.


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## toneloc2

glad your up and running and liking the helix,,,, wow 3 years no tunes i hated the two months was killing me,,,,, how much adjustments did you have to do to the potentiometers input?


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## ARCuhTEK

toneloc2 said:


> glad your up and running and liking the helix,,,, wow 3 years no tunes i hated the two months was killing me,,,,, how much adjustments did you have to do to the potentiometers input?


I only have two inputs (left and right full range via RCAs) so I only had to adjust two of the pent. inputs. Went i went to turn each one, you keep your eye on the clipping LED and for me I had to turn between 1/8 and 1/4 before the clipping light illuminated. Then, of course, dial it back just a bit. Essentially you dial it beyond clipping once...dial it back to turn light off...but then dial it back into clipping one more time (just to double check) and then dial it back ever so slightly. Then done.

From the time I removed the screws until the time I buttoned it up...5-6 mins max. 

You need a 1kHz odb test signal (see owners manual) to test. Believe it or not, it took me a LONG time to browse my collection to find a 0db test file. Guess where I found it.....the Bit One.1 test cds..... OH THE IRONY!!! I have lots of test signals at -10db or -1db...etc.


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## ARCuhTEK

Update for today.... 

I also purchased a MTK 1 mic from Helix. Today was my day to set up and test the existing frequency response of the system so I could dial the whole system in... To be honest, as much as I have read about this, I am still confused as to how to go about it all. I am a mic testing virgin... There are tons of threads on DIYMA to read and frankly I have read most.

As a preface, I have completed gain settings and crossover settings for all drivers. I have made sure my entire system up to the DSP is all flat eq, loudness off, sub bass boost off etc.

Time to plug in the mic and run a pink noise test. That is where the problems started. Honestly, I think the issue is that my windows laptop (new) with WIN10 loaded on it, simply did not install the proper driver for the MTK 1. It did recognize the mic, but that is about all.

The AF Sound Tuning magazine has step by step instructions that I followed easily and accurately up until the magazine asks me to go into the Device Manager and max the volume of the mic and then turn off Auto Gain Control. The Device Manager see only a generic USB mic, not a brand specific mic. The mic kit came with a USB drive with lots of files (dsp software, test signals, PDFs) but I could not find a mic driver so I could manually update the mic driver).

I tried to move beyond this issue and begin a simple test. But the ATF v 4 software instructs the user (me) to double check the sound pressure level of the mic using a pink noise test. The result should be an illuminated green bar at the top of the SETTINGS menu portion of the user interface. My SPL bar was white and remained white with no action taking place during the pink noise test. To me....the mic is not sending any results to the DSP ATF software and as such the SPL bar is not reacting at all.

I send word to my certified seller, describing the issue and requesting assistance.

One a side note....honestly, to me...the system sounds great as is... I spent about 4 hours today going through my CD collection, utilizing Bluetooth connection paired with Spotify from my iphone to browse my playlists....I even found some old reference music. All of it sounded sweet. If I had one critique, the tweeters are very bright and overpowering my bass and my bass is slightly underwhelming. I think the tuning will balance that out, in due time.

So far...I am a huge fan of Helix.


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## toneloc2

no disrespect,,,, did you plug the mic in before the software is on and set the gain half way on the mic itself and the mic should be red while testing.....
myself i use trurta i have the full version and use 1/6 oct for rta... i couldn't get that bar to work as well


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## ARCuhTEK

toneloc2 said:


> no disrespect,,,, did you plug the mic in before the software is on and set the gain half way on the mic itself and the mic should be red while testing.....
> myself i use trurta i have the full version and use 1/6 oct for rta... i couldn't get that bar to work as well


Simple questions are always good because the devil is in the details.I am trying to think of my exact sequence of plugging mic in before or after software is loaded. I think the ST Magazine has it in the correct sequence and I am 100% sure I followed that sequence (same order that you quote) I can confirm the mic was blue before I turned the ghost power on and then it was red all throughout testing attempts.

DIYMA member Gumblebee and I are exchanging PMs right now and he had some great feedback with essentially directed me to follow a series of steps to get the laptop to recognize the mic. Ther steps require several restarts of the laptop and software. It sounded pretty legit in terms of a probably set of steps that, of not taken, might mean a USB device would be recognized but might not get the right driver installed. I actually feel confident that his feedback will work me through the issue successfully. If it does, I will post the steps here for future readers. It would be worthwhile to put in the "Helix...who has answers..." thread as well.

PS: yes I can confirm the mic dial was exactly at halfway before starting the software. That was a very clear step in the tuning magazine.


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## toneloc2

fingers crossed,,,,,,


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## toneloc2

how did you make out with your mic driver, any update on the procedure ....


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## ARCuhTEK

toneloc2 said:


> how did you make out with your mic driver, any update on the procedure ....


Thanks for checking on on this....to be brutally honest, I have not touched it. I will update for sure on Friday....my next spare time day. Thanks again.

Oh...and by the way.... I purchased this CD for testing in my truck:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002MXUH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Ultimate Demonstration Disc: Chesky Records' Guide to Critical Listening

All tracks sound great... but if you like tight bass/percussion... holy cow, track 29 is AAAAMAZING.

"Best Of Chesky Jazz and More Audiophile Tests, Volume 2" Dynamic Imaging Test. It is short and only of a set of drums, solo...but for me personally, confirmed I currently own the best sounding stereo system I have ever owned. It sounds like I am sitting with the drummer.


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## Babs

ARCuhTEK said:


> Thanks for checking on on this....to be brutally honest, I have not touched it. I will update for sure on Friday....my next spare time day. Thanks again.
> 
> Oh...and by the way.... I purchased this CD for testing in my truck:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002MXUH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Ultimate Demonstration Disc: Chesky Records' Guide to Critical Listening
> 
> All tracks sound great... but if you like tight bass/percussion... holy cow, track 29 is AAAAMAZING.
> 
> "Best Of Chesky Jazz and More Audiophile Tests, Volume 2" Dynamic Imaging Test. It is short and only of a set of drums, solo...but for me personally, confirmed I currently own the best sounding stereo system I have ever owned. It sounds like I am sitting with the drummer.


Nice! I might have that one somewhere. Will have to dig it up if it's hiding somewhere on drive or player. Yeah there's nothing like a good stand-up bass recording to make you go wow when it's right, or cry when it's not or when some panel starts singing and/or the tune is bloaty etc. Since all the door work, I've become an SQ standup basshead. LOL!


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## lashlee

That's the disc that MECA used for years.


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## toneloc2

you were right ARCuhTEK i set my pods inputs on my dsp tonight and had to adjust about an 1/8 turn up to clip.... was missing that extra power,,,, had to measure with head unit full cause at 90% would not clip.....


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## ARCuhTEK

Just a quick update: 

I have not yet tried to get my mic set up as described above. I took a detour and decided to finish my entire build except the tuning and mic work. I was kind of tired of driving around in a trash bin...lol

So....I finished everything EXCEPT a custom face plate for the Director DSP remote control and a usb port (retractable lightning cable to be exact). I have been toying with the "where to mount" the rc for a while now. I have eliminated a few options, but still have a couple (ashtray or in overhead bin).

I am also thinking of custom fabricating a folding armrest to hold the rc and a future Fiio digital music player. But I dont want it to be seen when I am not in the vehicle so it must be under a lid or something. Deep thought on this....

A couple more notes:
The truck finally looks awesome. It is 100% stock looking on the inside (hence the reason I really dont post many pics). So by awesome, I just mean cleaned up, tools put away, carpet cleaned, seats reinstalled, etc. NOthing like a clean as new vehicle.

As stated above....I have not done ANY tuning except crossover, TA and gains. But the system sounds crazy good to my noob ears.

Got my new blue jean SPDIF cable install and ready for a future Fiio.

I have found a few reference songs that are new to me, but one really stands out. Check this out:










If you have not heard this in your vehicle....run...do not walk.... it is INCREDIBLE what you can hear through high resolution recordings and high resolution components. I really enjoyed it.

Oh and....I need to update my batter post mounting...both ground and positive. Anyone know where I can buy a clamp tool for 4 up to ) awg wire size ferrules. I looked at Ferrules Direct: 7-piece Quick Change Tool Kit but it seems their tools do not handle the larger wire sizes.

How are you all handling the big 3 wiring construction? I have my new battery post terminals that accept three inputs per post) and I have the compression lugs and ferrules, I just need to crimp them.

Enough for now....


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## ARCuhTEK

Finally updated my system diagram. The midrange are the only remaining items for this build. But I may never put them in as the system is pretty alright by me. 










Can be super enlarged in imgur....


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## toneloc2

i googled the reference track just couldn't find it.... is there a site to download from?


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## optimaprime

Any way I can view your build pics again?


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## ARCuhTEK

optimaprime said:


> Any way I can view your build pics again?


It is a photobucket thing, just like all over the forum(web). If I feel froggy one day I will upload and relink the entire build thread. What an effort...

Meanwhile, see if this works:

F150 by Kevin Gentry | Photobucket

It is every photo I took for the build.....in no order. If you cannot open this, please let me know.


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## ARCuhTEK

toneloc2 said:


> i googled the reference track just couldn't find it.... is there a site to download from?


I found it on Spotify.

https://open.spotify.com/track/14NA67HVP8iqQj1juf6TIh

Track number 5.


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