# Old School 85 RX7 build



## chuyler1

I picked up this 20,000 mile all original RX7 the other day. Taking a break from my REPU build to turn this into a daily driver. I'm planning to keep it original looking while doing a stealth install of some new features and gear.

First, I'll start with the car. It's a GSL model with a carbureted 12a rotary under the hood. 5 speed, Leather, power windows, power mirrors, cruise control, fully loaded for 1985. The only thing missing is the fuel injected 13b that came with the GSL-SE models. That's fine by me, I've got at 13b in my REPU and the 12a will keep me in check. 





































A quick analysis of the factory system using a cassette adapter to feed pink noise revealed a few issues I will need to address. Not much top end and an apparent high pass filter at 100hz. The factory EQ was useful to flatten the response as you can see below. Blue is with the EQ defeated and red is with my first pass at tuning. 













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## chuyler1

In addition to the factory EQ, the system is also composed of two 25x2 Clarion amps hidden under the storage bins. I pulled one out to bench test and it's a decent amp. I'm going to try to use them. 





































They are small, but if need be, I could swap for a class d amp in the same spot.


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## chuyler1

Then I swapped the rear speakers for some DLS Iridium 6.5"s. I had to make a 1/4" trim ring to avoid cutting any metal. This is just a preliminary install so I will worry about sound deadening later. 

The original rear speakers were in surprisingly good shape.



















A quick harness with left over connectors so I don't have to cut any factory wiring. 




















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## stills

Man that cars to nice to drive everday!


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## claydo

Oooh, damn nice example of a fun to drive car! I think it'll make an excellent dd, especially if yer an avid rotary mechanic.......always liked these cars for their agility and smooth powertrain......


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## chuyler1

Swapped out the fronts. Didn't have time this weekend to cut new panels and I don't want to cut the originals, so I used one of the existing screw holes to surface mount the tweeters. The mids fit perfectly underneath the factory grills. 























































Now i just need to look into the head unit and see if I can remove that high pass filter and boost the signal to the amps. 




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## edouble101

Very cool build. Love the stock kick panel locations


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## McNugget

20,000 miles? Wow. That's a deal. My Dad had one of these. Just don't overheat it because that's what killed his.


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## chuyler1

Yeah, gotta keep a close eye on temps, otherwise it'll be time for a rebuild and street port at the same time. 

First drive with the speakers installed. Gotta low pass the woofers. Wish I had bi-amp ready crossovers. 


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## Capt G

Had an '80, before they designed the storage bins in, and I think I discovered the space there while installing Recaro seats in it. I used some 3/4" hardwood, which I bevelled the edges on, and hinged, to make covers to go over the openings after I'd cut the carpet out. I put some Sony two-ways in them, as I recall. Added an amp for a small sub, on the floor behind the passenger seat, and put the sub all the way in the rear behind one of the original speaker grilles. Threw a couple of Grundig speakers in the kick panels, and ended up with great sound. Much better than having the midranges all the way in the rear, with surprisingly good resonance from the sub there. I lost track of the number of head units I had in it, simply because I was in NYC at the time, and they kept getting ripped off.

Rotary Engineering (defunct) used to make a really nice aluminum (painted black) replacement panel for the center console which would fit a DIN-sized shaft radio, while allowing the install of three VDO gauges above it for oil temp, press, and a volt meter. The aluminum made for a much better radio install than the orig plastic. Not sure if they made one for the later GSL version with the damn logitron heater/vent controls. I think I put an EQ in the glove box, IIRC. It's well worth mounting a oil temp gauge someplace on any rotary-powered car because, by the time oil pressure, or water temp, give you a clue to a problem, you're looking at an engine re-build.

I mounted a second fuse box in the engine bay near the master cylinder, which made wiring stereo, amps, and driving lights easier, safer, and more reliable.


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## McNugget

I had a 1986 RX7, FC3C chassis. Where the "cubby hole" storage/+2 seats went, I had custom molded fiberglass boxes with a 10" Polk subwoofer in each. The previous owner actually built them. It sounded great. Then they were stolen.


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## chuyler1

Yeah, my plan is total stealth for that exact reason. The car gets noticed, and I don't want to be cleaning glass off the upholstery.


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## Capt G

I painted my wooden doors/speaker mounts a satin black, which blended in with the black carpet, though I expect the Recaro seats obscured them more than would have the stock seats. All the break-ins and I never had them ever go further than the dash. Lucky me.

You'll probably be more lucky than we were back in the eighties, what with the crime rate down so much. It's not really the attraction of a nice install or head unit that provokes the break-in, unless it's someone known to you doing it, but rather the prospect or expectation of finding a nice unit. It cannot be emphasized how stupid your average car stereo thief really is. Yes, there's something to be said for not leaving tempting items in view, or having an obviously high end installation readily discernible from outside, though I lost track of the number of friends whose cars got broken into that had no radios at all, some with a sign in the window saying so, as well. The classic experience had to be one which happened to an acquaintance who drove an old BMW 2002 to the train station daily....and this was back when an old 2002 was just another old car to all but car buffs....in which he resolutely stuck with the stock radio, sans even cassette deck, just for the purpose of not attracting the kind of attention that might lead to a broken window or schwanzed door skin from a lock being ripped out. He kept nothing in the car, and made a point of never locking the car even, such was his desire not to deal with it. Nevertheless, he returned from the city one day to find his window broken out, though his radio was still present. Yup, break the window within an unlocked door. If you had a benzi box, they broke into the trunk as well, just to see if you'd put the radio there.

Of course, in those days, if you had a rotary engined car, you were just glad the car was still there when you got back. Clapped out RX-4s got stolen just for their 13-B engines. Power antennas weren't some kind of luxury convenience feature, so you didn't have to get out and lower it before going through the car wash, but a necessity borne of the juvenile delinquent habit of breaking them off for use as a weapon. If you wanted a CB, and who didn't with a 55mph speed limit, you had to install a Bosch triband power antenna, and find a CB radio with controls on the mic so you could install the radio itself under the seat. For awhile, in the late seventies, if you had a CB antenna on your car, you could measure your CB ownership in weeks.

For about 5-6 years, you could park a Benz or a big Bimmer with greater assurances it'd be there when you got back, than you could anything with a rotary in it. Alarms, then like now, were mostly useless. I ran two separate "kill switches" on the RX-7; one that grounded out the coils and another that killed power to the fuel pump, each with its own hidden switch. The only time I came close to losing the car, I came out of a diner, after only twenty minutes inside for a coffee and piece of pie, to find the car parked ten feet ahead of where I'd parked it, with the fogs lamps glowing beneath their covers. (Oddly enough, they took a leather jacket and two boxes of cassette tapes....I guess to show they were pissed.) What was surprising wasn't that they'd rolled the car ahead on the starter motor, but that they'd gone under the hood, found and disconnected the coil wire grounds, before giving up on getting the car. (And those wires were installed and looked like they belonged there, blending in perfectly with the factory wiring.) That was the most professional attempt made at acquiring my motor. Losing the radio regularly was just the cost of living in NYC in those days, though an abiding reason in deciding never to live there other than temporarily. I've never since lost the rage that theft of my occupational labor engenders. Radios and window glass are replaced easily enough; not so the forever loss of the sweat and effort which allowed me to buy them in the first place.

Enjoy your ride. I still miss mine, and I drove it into the ground.


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## McNugget

Wow that's quite the tale of Rotary ownership Capt G. These days, what I do for alarms is extra sensors. I use a microwave field sensor in my center console that gives a warn away chirp when anyone comes close (it has an off switch of course for crowded parking). I use ultrasonic transducers for interior motion detection because they'll break the glass with porcelain and avoid setting off the shock sensor. Finally, I use a UPS so they can't short out the alarm through a fog light or something.


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## chuyler1

Wow, great stories. I had my car broken into just once, and my CD collection was stolen but the Pioneer radio left behind. I never leave anything of value in my cars and I have always gone with stealth installs. I guess it's good I have never really had desirable cars to steal or had to park in shady city neighborhoods. I am hoping this car commands a certain respect among would-be thieves at this point. It's not an expensive car, but it's a rare sight to see one so original. However, I still plan to install a few anti-theft measures to make Furiosa proud. 











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## chuyler1

I did some bench testing to figure out the Clarion head unit. 

It will be quite easy to incorporate AUX input. I just need some DIN connectors which I just ordered from Amazon. 

The tuner passes audio to the EQ, then to the tape deck, then back to the EQ, then back to the tuner, through the volume/fader and eventually out to the external amps all through a series of external DIN cables. If you unplug the cable to the EQ nothing works. The base model actually had a jumper plug installed because the signal has to go out then come back. 

When a cassette is inserted, power is cut to the tuner. Otherwise the cassette will play on top of the radio signal. So basically the tuner is just a volume knob. 

Output voltage for the tuner and cassette is extremely low but it appears to have a decent frequency response with no HP filter. I played some music from the radio as well as a cassette and took some average readings. Smooth rolloff on the low end, and lousy high frequency response but I think it's typical given I didn't have a way to pass in clean pink noise.

Next I wired in pink noise from my phone by disconnecting the cassette deck. Voltage from the phone is much higher, and cleaner. I got pretty much flat response.

So next steps are to build a DIN harness that will allow me to insert a headphone jack into the signal. Then I will install a relay inline with the cassette power that also powers the tuner. Then I can turn off both when i want to listen to aux input. 

I'm going to install a permanent headphone jack as well as 5v USB charging port somewhere. That way I can use an off the shelf Bluetooth adapter. 


















































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## chuyler1

Working on permanent installation of mids and tweets. Now I just need to find some burgundy carpet. I think they used up the remaining stock to make Anchorman 2. 











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## chuyler1

Finished the kick panels and I'm quite pleased with the results.


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## chuyler1

Created an AUX input cable to piggy back the cable between the tuner and equalizer using 8 pin DIN connectors.










Created a new output cable so I can install an active crossover. Converts 6 pin DIN to RCA with a separate wire for ground and remote turn on. Not sure I need the ground but it may be necessary for factory amps to continue to function.


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## chuyler1

Here is how I will turn off the tuner and enable the aux input and USB charging port. When I connect a BT module, it will only be powered when the car is on and the switch is turned on. I don't want sounds from my phone attempting to play when the radio or tape deck is also playing.


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## chuyler1

Aux Input complete.

USB and headphone input with light up switch









Back side









Splicing into the power for the tuner









Mounting the converter and relay deep behind the radio.









I also hooked in the crossover so I could low pass the rear speakers. It's just velcroed under the seat until I decide what else I want to do.

Listening impressions: At moderate volume the clarity is quite stunning. At louder volumes the amplifiers begin to introduce some noticeable distortion.

What is odd is the lack of bass. My mic says there is nothing below 100Hz but I can't tell if it is accurate or a setup issue with RoomEq and my Mac. I used to use TrueRTA on my PC but I recycled that old laptop ages ago. 

I bench tested the amps and the head unit with my home PC and didn't see any high pass filter. So it's either my laptop or possibly a filter placed in the factory wiring.

In any case, the result is very punchy clear music with mild distortion at loud levels. I think I'll try an aftermarket amp next and see how it sounds, but for now, I'm quite pleased. The Bluetooth unit I picked up works well too.


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## hot9dog

I'm loving this build!!!! Great car.


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## indytrucks

This is great.


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## strohw

The underside of the dash looks like a very good candidate for horns.


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## chuyler1

The dash is very low and it is crammed tight under there. I barely found a spot to tuck in the crossovers.


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## strohw

Sneaky pictures

They make the floor space look spacious with lots of room =]


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## chuyler1

It's a matter of scale. If you look at the photos thinking its the size of a Buick Regal you'll be in for a surprise when you find out the interior fits a 6' tall person like a glove.


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## chuyler1

Freshened up the suspension on the RX7 today. Forgot how much a hassle spring compressors are. Car sits exactly the same right now, which tells you how worn out the springs were. The front shocks were completely blown. I could push them in by hand with no effort. I did a quick test drive and it feels sooooo much better. I flushed the brake fluid as well since I have no idea the last time it was done. Lubed the caliper slides while I had them off for the strut install.


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## chuyler1

New wheels, Rota 15x7 +20 with Yokohama S.Drive 205/50R15. Super sticky now and much better steering wheel feel. I was never going to get that from the 13"s. I have a track night to attend next week so I'm psyched to see how she handles at speed.




























On the audio front, my other project has been delayed so I took one of the NVX 4 channel amps and installed it in this car. The response is much more even compared to the OEM Clarion amps but the NVX does run hot, even at idle. 










I'm now thinking I may ditch the spare tire and build a hidden sub enclosure. Might make for a good winter project.


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## chuyler1

Attended a few track days and decided to upgrade the sway bars as well. Car is a blast on the track but definitely needs more power to keep up with late model sports cars even though I have way more grip in the corners.


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## jode1967

nice that looks alot like the daughters 83GSL.


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## chuyler1

Been a slow winter. But with HPDE season upon us, I'm putting more focus on the RX7. 

I changed the fuel filter last weekend to resolve a high RPM fuel starvation issue. The car revs smooth up to 8k now. 

The new exhaust came in but weather turned bad and I haven't had a chance to install it.










This is Racing Beat's long primary setup which should help with scavenging and offer about 25% increase in power. 










I've also got their K&N canister filter to install and some new stainless brake lines. 











I also need to do something about the audio. I don't want to cut the door cards but I really do need some sound up front and better balancing. Due to how tall I am, the balance actually skews right because the left tweeter is blocked by the dash. Maybe I do need horns, or I should cut holes in the corners of the dash...or just use surface mounts.


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## chuyler1

Today's day long project...

First remove the air pump. This is spun by belt and essentially pumps air into the factory exhaust to aid combustion emissions.










Next, the air control valve can be removed from the intake manifold. This will be blocked off later.










With the pump and valve removed, there is an inlet and outlet on the factory air cleaner that need to be blocked off. 




























Up next is removing the heat shields around the exhaust manifold. 




























That gave me access to the bolts that connect the manifold to the motor. Before I could pull it off there was one more connection, a check valve that also needs to be blocked off afterward.



















Then there is a bunch of scuffling around under the car removing all the exhaust hangers. I didn't bother photographing this but it goes as follows. Remove the mid-pipe heat shield, detach the silencer from the mid pipe just ahead of the rear axle, detach the mid pipe from the final cat, remove all the hanger bolts, then get it all out!


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## chuyler1

Installing the new exhaust system is pretty straight forward from this point on. I dropped the header in and loosely installed by bolts. I installed the silencer and loosely bolted it to the hangers. Then using a jack I lifted the mid section into place. Keeping the mid section jacked, I tightened everything front to rear.


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## chuyler1

Today's project, pulling all the old brake lines and replacing with stainless steel. I'll get to some audio projects soon, I promise!


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## chuyler1

New Morel components installed. I kept things simple to start. I could have gone crazy with bondo but when I saw how easy it was to just recess the flush mount cups, I just let it be. I've got plenty of this burgundy grill cloth if I want to do it over again sometime.


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## Iamsecond

Man that brings back memories. I had an 81. That car was a blast. 
I put pioneer component set up front and the tweeters were up the doors a way and they were attached using thin angle metal. Sounded fantastic. I installed a pair of kicker 6.5 mid bass speakers in the storage compartments behind the seat. I had all the speakers run off a hifonics amp that was 50x2. This was in 1993 so all of these components were new but considered vintage today. I used the kicker crossovers that were used when kicker was a boutique brand. I used a clarion pro single din CD player which was the stuff back then. I also had a bazooka tube. Then a jl audio 8 in the hatch. My wife (we were married in 1994) still talks about that system. 
I had 15 inch 5 stars and I did all the upgrades your doing. Mine was white with black leather interior.
I have looked for one of there ever since but these things are like unicorns today.
Great install.


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## chithead

Hadn't seen this thread until now. VERY cool! I am digging every thing you've done thus far, and really look forward to more more more!


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## chuyler1

Iamsecond said:


> Man that brings back memories. I had an 81. That car was a blast.
> 
> ...
> 
> I have looked for one of there ever since but these things are like unicorns today.
> 
> Great install.


They actually aren't all that rare. Mazda sold a ton of these in the U.S. and sites like bring a trailer or even Craigslist list them all the time, even some in very good condition with low miles like the one I found. I'm obviously having a blast with it. Cheap thrills.


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## chuyler1

Although there is nothing wrong with my motor, I found a deal on a 12a on Craigslist and decided to have it rebuilt and ported for this car...keeping my low mile engine as a backup I guess. 

My REPU is running again so what better way to put it to use than to pick up a motor!



















The same day I dropped it off with my engine builder to have him go through it. The car it came out of had 60k so it wasn’t a bad starting point. Rotors and shaft were sent out for balancing, it’s getting a full rebuild kit, and large street port on the secondaries and just some mild changes to the primaries and exhaust ports. Not a crazy build, but will be worth the effort. 




























It’s also getting a light weight flywheel and counterweight. 










I picked up a 45mm side draft intake manifold too. I can’t decide whether to ditch the Nikki. I still want this to be a street friendly daily driver and thus I’m keeping things like power steering and A/C, and I want the choke so I can drive in cold weather too. But if I go EFI like my REPU, I can probably still achieve all that. Anyway, I got a deal on this, so I can decide later.


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## chuyler1

Another quick evening project. I rebuilt the power steering pump using the seal kit from RockAuto. 





































While I was reassembling, I noticed a few of the vanes on the rotor were sticky. When I flipped over the rotor I found some scoring and burrs that were snagging the vanes. I used some 400 grit sand paper to smooth out the surface and remove the burrs. Not sure if this will cause other problems, but I’ll find out when I reinstall it. I didn’t sand down the pump housing to match as the grooves were inset and I thought it might cause leaks if I messed with it. I’m sure if someone had access to a machine shop the housing could be quickly resurfaced. Anyway, this was the pump that came with the spare motor. I know the one on my motor has fewer miles so maybe I’ll replace the seals on that one too and see what it looks like on the inside.


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## chuyler1

New seats for the RX7 to make things a little more comfortable for my tall body. Picked these up from a Facebook post. I had to cut the rear perches out of the car and modify the brackets to get the seat low enough for me to wear a helmet. The fit is great now!


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## minbari

chuyler1 said:


> I picked up this 20,000 mile all original RX7 the other day. Taking a break from my REPU build to turn this into a daily driver. I'm planning to keep it original looking while doing a stealth install of some new features and gear.
> 
> First, I'll start with the car. It's a GSL model with a carbureted 12a rotary under the hood. 5 speed, Leather, power windows, power mirrors, cruise control, fully loaded for 1985. The only thing missing is the fuel injected 13b that came with the GSL-SE models. That's fine by me, I've got at 13b in my REPU and the 12a will keep me in check.
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> A quick analysis of the factory system using a cassette adapter to feed pink noise revealed a few issues I will need to address. Not much top end and an apparent high pass filter at 100hz. The factory EQ was useful to flatten the response as you can see below. Blue is with the EQ defeated and red is with my first pass at tuning.
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such a pretty car! I had an '83 GS when I was a kid. RED! LOVED that car, but the carb is a PITA! oil injected, so keep an eye on the oil. (although it you have spare engines, you prolly already knew)

really want to find another one, oh well


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## chuyler1

The first step toward going EFI is a good wideband. I removed the factory center clock and put a dual AFR gauge in. I will drop the header off at the shop to get bungs installed later this week. 

The install was pretty straight forward. I had to cut out a center brace that was directly behind the clock, but once that was out of the way, the gauge plopped right in and looks like it belongs!


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## Kapn.K

Great thread! I had 5 first gens and one 2nd gen. My fave was my '85. I had a 12a with a diy long primary that I built with 2 cherry bombs into a 5" s/s Supertrapp. All the glass cooks out of all of them in about 2 minutes and you have to take the disks off to let out the packing. I had a SHORT side draft manifold with a 45mm DCOE. Carter electric pump with 1 5/8" mechanical gauge at the back of the hood. Buy the time I got the '85, I blew another engine. I decided to buck the recommendations and built a bridge port. I did it with 2 piece seals and shifted at 8500(I think that's what the tach went to). Put 42mm chokes in the Weber because I couldn't afford another Weber. Just bury it and shift. Idled at 900 and still got 19mpg. I had BFG 235/50-13's on those rims. The only tunes I had were the bridgey. Now I want to build a 13b PP for my 1992 B2600i Ext Cab. I will go efi and an IDA style 60mm throttle body. All the PR guys tell me to go turbo at that point but I want N/A. I don't need that much(turbo) power, anyway. I've got Turbo Audi's for that itch.


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## chuyler1

Nice! I’ve been slowly acquiring the parts to upgrade to a street port motor I had built. Plan is to swap out the original and swap in this one. It’s a big street port, should be good for 150-160 hp to the wheels. I may turbo some day, but I enjoy making little changes then taking it to the Track to see if I can improve my times. 



















Some fun at Limerock Park a few weeks ago. I ran a 1:10 lap time, top speed 102 mph. Not bad for 100whp.


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## Gramps

Mate, awesome car, i love what you’ve done with the original head unit, 
I have had a few rotors, including a few 1st gen rx7’s, my last one had a s4 13bt with a haltec ecu, made 195rwkw and had a 4.4:1 diff from a mazda van, it was a bloody rocket, so quick through the gears!!
Id love some advice on how to modify my factory headunit with an aux input, my build is a 86 mazda 929 hb, sorry about the small pic, its all i have right now and cant figure out how to make them bigger
Keep up the good work.
Krem


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## Kapn.K

Gramps said:


> Mate, awesome car, i love what you’ve done with the original head unit,
> I have had a few rotors, including a few 1st gen rx7’s, my last one had a s4 13bt with a haltec ecu, made 195rwkw and had a 4.4:1 diff from a mazda van, it was a bloody rocket, so quick through the gears!!
> Id love some advice on how to modify my factory headunit with an aux input, my build is a 86 mazda 929 hb, sorry about the small pic, its all i have right now and cant figure out how to make them bigger
> Keep up the good work.
> Krem


That stereo is awesome! I've never seen one like that. It looks like some of my old home cassette units.

Thought you guys might like this project. The builder didn't want to spoil his old school dash with a new head unit so he built his own arduino based one.

Arduino Car Stereo - Retro JDM


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## Grinder

Gramps said:


> Mate, awesome car, i love what you’ve done with the original head unit,
> I have had a few rotors, including a few 1st gen rx7’s, my last one had a s4 13bt with a haltec ecu, made 195rwkw and had a 4.4:1 diff from a mazda van, it was a bloody rocket, so quick through the gears!!
> Id love some advice on how to modify my factory headunit with an aux input, my build is a 86 mazda 929 hb, *sorry about the small pic, its all i have right now and cant figure out how to make them bigger*
> Keep up the good work.
> Krem


Let's see if this helps...


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## Grinder

^^^^^ YAAAAAAAAAY! 

Here’s how I did it (I just figured this out the other day):

Right click on thumbnail/copy link address.

Then at message window, click Go Advanced.

Than click yellow Insert Image icon.

Paste thumbnail address, click OK.


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## chuyler1

Can’t really help you with that unit but I’m sure it is likely similar on the back side as mine with some cables connecting the various modules. Find the manuals for it, or just start poking around with a multimeter. 

Work on this car has sort of stalled out. I’m waiting on more parts for a new street ported motor that will go in. In the meantime my wife and I have been restoring an 85 MR2 for her to drive and take to track events. I haven’t really been blogging that build as it’s just a lot of frustrating rusty bolts.


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## Grinder

chuyler1 said:


> Can’t really help you with that unit but I’m sure it is likely similar on the back side as mine with some cables connecting the various modules. Find the manuals for it, or just start poking around with a multimeter.
> 
> Work on this car has sort of stalled out. I’m waiting on more parts for a new street ported motor that will go in. In the meantime my wife and I have been restoring an 85 MR2 for her to drive and take to track events. I haven’t really been blogging that build as it’s just* a lot of frustrating rusty bolts*.


Ah, yes... life in the Salt Belt.


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## Gramps

Grinder said:


> ^^^^^ YAAAAAAAAAY!
> 
> Here’s how I did it (I just figured this out the other day):
> 
> Right click on thumbnail/copy link address.
> 
> Then at message window, click Go Advanced.
> 
> Than click yellow Insert Image icon.
> 
> Paste thumbnail address, click OK.


Hmmm.. how do i “right click” on an ipad:blush:
Thanks for the tip tho
Krem


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