# id oem mid review from a hillbilly



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

ok i'll do this one just like my others and keep it categorized and to the point. why babble if i don't have to? a little insight on my power and what worked best...i have 126rms per from my xenon 100.4. they could most likely take double that though. polarity is reversed for both mids at the amp. i have them crossed from 80-2500 with 12db slopes on both sides. with eq on flat they sounded better than anything else i've used to date. VERY acceptable. but to get the midrange shaped properly in my single cab i had to make a -3db cut at 315hz with a q of 1.5 and a -4db cut at 1khz with a q of 1. while this is totally dependant on install and vehicle i still feel this is worth mentioning. they also stay fairly linear from "chill" volume to "hella loud". i blame it all on the stiff cone not flexing and causing distortion the tonal signature is slightly forward. it's just enough to help cut through road noise but not so much they sound shouty. 

build quality-above and beyond what you'd expect out of a $90 pair of mids. they look like they could take a direct hit from a power washer and not get damaged. considering the seller works for a boat company i can see why they're built the way they are. the cone is VERY stiff and the performance described below seems to follow suit to this feature.

midbass-not the best but certainly not the worst. they kick like a mule in my lightly deadened doors when the music tells them to. i also used the supplied gasket in the install and that might have something to do with it. my reason for using it was to decouple them from the panel since i have them mounted to the outside of the door card with a heavily clayed mdf baffle between the card and inner aluminum skin. also have a 9" cascade deflex pad directly behind each one.

impact-metallica ...and justice for all was a great test for this. ulrich never sounded better. drums sound fairly realistic. definately the best mids i've used to date (and i've used plenty) when it comes to ripping your head off.

midrange-very pronounced and not near the coloration of the coated paper mids i've used in the past. they have all the qualities of a metal cone with the forgiveness of a paper or poly cone. i pulled what little siblance they do have out with the help of the first disc of the steely dan citizen set. everything i throw in sounds great. i can't find a single thing wrong with the way these sound. coming from me says you better get you a pair before hessdawg runs out! i might pick me up a second pair just to have. the price can't be beat.


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## tommyd (Nov 7, 2007)

Nice. Good to hear, I haven't installed mine yet


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## jrouter76 (Dec 21, 2005)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> ok i'll do this one just like my others and keep it categorized and to the point. why babble if i don't have to? a little insight on my power and what worked best...i have 126rms per from my xenon 100.4. they could most likely take double that though. polarity is reversed for both mids at the amp. i have them crossed from 80-2500 with 12db slopes on both sides. with eq on flat they sounded better than anything else i've used to date. VERY acceptable. but to get the midrange shaped properly in my single cab i had to make a -3db cut at 315hz with a q of 1.5 and a -4db cut at 1khz with a q of 1. while this is totally dependant on install and vehicle i still feel this is worth mentioning. they also stay fairly linear from "chill" volume to "hella loud". i blame it all on the stiff cone not flexing and causing distortion the tonal signature is slightly forward. it's just enough to help cut through road noise but not so much they sound shouty.
> 
> build quality-above and beyond what you'd expect out of a $90 pair of mids. they look like they could take a direct hit from a power washer and not get damaged. considering the seller works for a boat company i can see why they're built the way they are. the cone is VERY stiff and the performance described below seems to follow suit to this feature.
> 
> ...


very nice review , you are right I have these and the midrange clarity really supprised me along with the kick these have, I pretty much drop these in where my Adire SF7s were and with very little adjustments,I drop my x-over point from 80 to 50hz and my q to 2 and I also up the high up to about2300 hz with a 12 db slope with a q of 3 and it matches very well with my Seas Neos which are x-overed at2500hz ,18db slope I 1ll tweak it some more as the weather warms up, it`s been cold and icy here.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

Are these night and day better than the Seas CD18MDS? 

How would you compare/contrast the two?

I ask because I seem to remember you having these at one point.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Nice review. These mids are going to be installed in my Scion when I take my first dive into the active world. Now I just have to figure out what tweets to match them up with and what amp to power them with. 

Zach


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## DonovanM (Nov 1, 2006)

tommyd said:


> Nice. Good to hear, I haven't installed mine yet


x2. Thanks for the review!

Wonder how they'll do off of 500w per side...  Once I get them installed I'll post with updates.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Boostedrex said:


> Nice review. These mids are going to be installed in my Scion when I take my first dive into the active world. Now I just have to figure out what tweets to match them up with and what amp to power them with.
> 
> Zach


my morels are a good match for sure. you don't want anything too sterile sounding. the seas neo textiles might work as long as they're off axis. on axis i never could get them to sound right in unpredictables civic hatch. he's running my lotus pt25's now and they're made for on axis use apparently. BIG improvement. what's the tweeter budget zach?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

DonovanM said:


> x2. Thanks for the review!
> 
> Wonder how they'll do off of 500w per side...  Once I get them installed I'll post with updates.


i think they'll do mighty fine. i could easily get away with sending double to mine but even then it would only be around 250rms per


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

Boostedrex said:


> Nice review. These mids are going to be installed in my Scion when I take my first dive into the active world. Now I just have to figure out what tweets to match them up with and what amp to power them with.
> 
> Zach


what scion do you have? if its a tc then definitely consider using the kick panels for the tweeters.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> my morels are a good match for sure. you don't want anything too sterile sounding. the seas neo textiles might work as long as they're off axis. on axis i never could get them to sound right in unpredictables civic hatch. he's running my lotus pt25's now and they're made for on axis use apparently. BIG improvement. what's the tweeter budget zach?


I was considering the Seas neo textiles. I was also debating crusing the for sale sections to see if I could come across a decent deal on a used set of Scans or Lotus tweets (I know, it's a long shot). The budget is going to be $100 or less for right now. So my options aren't as plentiful as I would like. 

And TCGuy85, my Scion is the short bus (xB) 

Zach


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

ahh you drive teh toaster zack i've seen some really slick stealth sub installs in those things

as for used gear, i just cruise the classifieds and buy used gear. most of what's sold on here is barely broken in or brand spankin new at a discounted price anyway. i also have a couple local diyma members that i make sure know what i'm looking for so they can give me a heads-up if they see something i missed


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## phyphoestilic (Jul 9, 2007)

I got a pair of them. The midrange is better than the morel MW166s i replaced with, but the midbass lacks a little for me. Bang for buck wise its a steal. I have mine crossed at 63hz and 2.5khz with 24/db and 18/db respectively. I am running them IB in a pretty well deadened door.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

do they really lack mid-bass?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

ha sanyone tried these in a sealed enviroment? would they not be sealed in a marina application?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> do they really lack mid-bass?


since they've broken in the midbass has come alive. also keep in mind the install is everything. 

carl-if you get a pair and find out you don't like them for the install they're going in i'll buy them off ya!


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## slainnothing (Mar 7, 2008)

i just got mine in today... and installed. first impressions: my AA Poly Mids are better. i'll review a little more after they are broken in.

alpine 7878
mbq raa4200
vifa xt25's
id oem mids

mbq raa2400
TC oem 10 (alum)


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

slainnothing said:


> i just got mine in today... and installed. first impressions: my AA Poly Mids are better. i'll review a little more after they are broken in.
> 
> alpine 7878
> mbq raa4200
> ...


Allow them a little time to losen up.....Hillbilly even mention they open up after a good week of play.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

slainnothing said:


> i just got mine in today... and installed. first impressions: my AA Poly Mids are better. i'll review a little more after they are broken in.
> 
> alpine 7878
> mbq raa4200
> ...


i wasn't too fond of the aa poly mids at all. different strokes for different folks.


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## dejo (Jan 3, 2006)

last time I heard the ID mids was back in the mid/late 90's alot of them should be broken in pretty good by now. lol


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I was considering picking up a pair of these to run active. I'm running some entry level boston comps active right now off of a 50x4 Denon amp. I was told that these mids need more power than I have on tap, what do you guys think?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

gijoe said:


> I was considering picking up a pair of these to run active. I'm running some entry level boston comps active right now off of a 50x4 Denon amp. I was told that these mids need more power than I have on tap, what do you guys think?


if you bridged that denon amp you'd have plenty of power. however 50 per might not be enough


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I don't want to do that, my tweeters need power too and I don't particularly want another amp. I'll post a thread in a more appropriate section to try and get some suggestions. Thanks.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

I'll be able to tell you soon enough, I hope. I just ordered a set of these yesterday and I only have 55WX4 on tap, currently. 

My plan is to try it this way, initiallly and if I feel like I need more I'll buy a matching amp that does 75WX2 for my tweeters and bridge the current one to 150WX2 to get more to 'em.


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## hessdawg (Feb 20, 2007)

I'm only running 65 watts to mine 
they are 91db efficient


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

hey hillbilly: you have run the mids from the PG RSD set correct? if so, how would you compare these ID OEM's to them? 

i currently have the rsd set running active on a butt load of power and i love the mid-bass, the mid-range is ok. just wondering your feelings on the two. thanks!


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## Stel (Mar 11, 2008)

Any idea how these might compare to a Crystal SSCS woofer?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Stel said:


> Any idea how these might compare to a Crystal SSCS woofer?


I like midbass of the OEMs but the midrange on the SSCS.

I was not a fan however of the titanium tweeter that came with the SSCS set.


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## redcalimp5 (Sep 10, 2007)

Thanks for the review, HBSQ. 

I've had a set of these running active now for about 3 weeks. They're getting 120w rms a side, and they sound GREAT for the price. They get real loud and clear, and they have an impressive midbass presence for such a relatively inexpensive price point. 

I had a set of Rainbow CMX Kickbass mids I was running active before this, and after these last 3 weeks, I actually think I like the OEM mids better.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Just sent in my payment. I'll be starting these off with only about 50watts, How are yours working out Beaver?


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

What are you guys crossing these at? Also, (bumping tc's question) can anyone compare these to the RSd mid?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

I am sure most have them around 2khx with a 24db slope.

I would say I would rather have these than the RSD mids, but this is only going off of what Hillbilly said about the build quality of the RSD mid compared to how the tweeter was built.


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## redcalimp5 (Sep 10, 2007)

UCF52 said:


> What are you guys crossing these at? Also, (bumping tc's question) can anyone compare these to the RSd mid?


I'm crossing my ID OEM's at 80Hz, 12db/oct Mid-Lo, and 3.2kHz, 12db/oct, Mid-Hi. I like them at this setting, but I might play with an 18 or a 24db/oct rolloff to see if I can smooth out the upper midrange a little....it just seems to me a little strained in the upper frequency region.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

redcalimp5 said:


> I'm crossing my ID OEM's at 80Hz, 12db/oct Mid-Lo, and 3.2kHz, 12db/oct, Mid-Hi. I like them at this setting, but I might play with an 18 or a 24db/oct rolloff to see if I can smooth out the upper midrange a little....it just seems to me a little strained in the upper frequency region.


try 2500 at 12db. i agree at 3200 they start to bog down on the upper end. also try cutting 315hz and 1khz by 2-4db's with a q of 1 or 1.5. if you're using a graphic just be sure to make the cuts gradule with the surrounding bands tapering around the 315 and 1k to resemble a parametric. i also took mine up to 100 at 12db on the low side and they cleaned up nice. have the sub coming in gradule at 63hz 12db. it's totally install dependant but this worked for me and sounds damn good.


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

I recently got a pair of hessdawg's ID OEMs and wanted to add to this review. These mids kick butt, especially for the money. My sub is crossed a lot lower now because IDOEMs play so much lower. I can feel the air move on my pant leg. Here is a photo of my PG RSD65cs mids compared to the ID OEMs.








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## btnh47 (May 25, 2008)

these sound promising.. i might jus get these to to replace the RSDs i have 

thnx for the great review.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I finally got mine to fit into my door and powered them up. I am very pleased. I am going from a set of Boston Acoustic s60's and these ID's are in a different league all together. The ID's have much stronger midbass, even though my doors are no longer sealed (I had a window problem that required opening everything back up) I can't wait to seal my doors back up. I'm running them off of a 50x4 Denon amp, they do well but could benefit from a lot more power. I can cross these a lot lower than I could my BA's, this really helped to pull the bass up front. 

I don't have a lot of experience with decent drivers, but I am very pleased with these. At $90 buck a pair they are a steal!


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

I just got mine powered up a couple days ago too!... I have a very similar settup to Hillbilly's... 
The midbass is putting a big grin on my face -and their not even broken in yet!... 
I have at least a 100watts going to them


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## 86mr2 (Apr 29, 2005)

Anyone done any off-axis response measurements and distortion measurements on these? I would sure be interested in seeing some curves.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

86mr2 said:


> Anyone done any off-axis response measurements and distortion measurements on these? I would sure be interested in seeing some curves.


what does a line on a piece of paper have to do with how something sounds in the real would of variables?

whether they measure well or not these mids are great for what they cost and will beat pretty much anything you would find in a component set in the $400+ range.


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## 86mr2 (Apr 29, 2005)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> whether they measure well or not these mids are great for what they cost and will beat pretty much anything you would find in a component set in the $400+ range.


Yep, there is the issue for me right there. So far, all I have seen about this driver is that it sounds great for the price, and it is pretty. I have not actually seen much in the way of comparisons to other drivers, particularly those that have known measurements available. 

I am sure it sounds great for the price, but living in the great white north, I am not really in a position to audition a bunch of different drivers, and buying and changing stuff all the time gets expensive shipping wise. My own interests are in building a non-fatiguing, low distortion system for my car. For this reason I am interested in the distortion performance of drivers, and not being made of money, I am not inclined to just go out and buy a Revelator to accomplish it.

One of the reasons the entire DIY *loudspeaker* community exists is because we have the ability to measure low cost drivers and design fine sounding systems for costs less than the mass market, and have fun at it in the bargain. There was a time this site was about the same idea extended into car audio. 

I have seen it claimed that this particular driver extends up to 4.5khz. Fine, how far off axis? At what distortion? Time and time again on this site and others in the speaker building community I have seen people claim to be able to play midbasses far higher than my experience supports (RS180 at 2khz anyone?) and tweeters far lower than I can understand (Northcreek D25 at 1600hz). It is just nice to see what the objective data suggests and then compare it to the subjective comments in the various threads.

Having been around the 'net a while, I tend to be sceptical of the internet boner of the week. Too many times on this site I have seen everyone jump on some driver or another's bandwagon ( at about a 4 to 1 ratio of real purchasers to bandwagoneers, I might add) only for the purchasers to turn around 6 months later and sell off the boner. I like to make my own decisions from as much information as I can find. Call me - oh - analytical I guess.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

trust me, i totally agree with boners being nothing more than temporary kings. when i first joined diyma every single thread had "seas ca18rnx" and "seas neo" in it. when it all comes down to it you just gotta look though the cloud of muck and see if a particular driver will fit your needs or not. i will say that i MUCH prefer a fiberglass/kevlar cone over paper, poly, aluminum, etc. everyone's different and knowing what tonal signature a certain cone material will have will save you a lot of money in the longrun. i'd put the id oem's in the same line as some of focals offerings. 

something tells me these mids will talked about for a while and as long as the people buying them can get them in their doors they'll stick with them. i know i'll be hanging on to mine and only replace them with focal polyglass or utopia when the time comes.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

forgot to mention that off axis you don't wanna take any 6.5" mid above about 2500hz 12db slope because of beaming.


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## dftnz7 (Mar 2, 2008)

I have been running these since the 4th of July and couldn't be happier. In this vehicle I have had RSDs, the ID CTXs, then these, and these blow the others out of the water hands down. The RSDs and CTXs were fairly similar in midbass, but the RSD had a more somewhat harsh midrange I felt, maybe due to the aluminum cone? Then I slapped these little beefcakes in and boy do they kick...Midrange *somewhat* more detailed than the CTX, but have the same warm tone to them. I am crossing them at 63hz on the lowend now...they can dig pretty deep. The midbass output is staggering compared to my other speakers, even before break-in. Of course, the mounting depth may be a concern for some....They look like little subs...

I am running passive still, but plan to go active now that I have the 880PRS installed. They do want to act a little funny up around 3.15kz and I have had to make some cuts here to tone them down a bit, but it worked fine and they sound great.


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## XpME36M3 (Jun 24, 2006)

Can anyone compare this to the Seas P18RNX and Peerless exclusives? I am setting up a 2 way active front and still deciding on 2 8" substage(IB setup to replace rear fills). I would prefer detail and clarity in the midrange and have the subs take over the lower frequecies. I listen to mostly R&B, hiphop, alternative. Thanks


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

XpME36M3 said:


> Can anyone compare this to the Seas P18RNX and Peerless exclusives? I am setting up a 2 way active front and still deciding on 2 8" substage(IB setup to replace rear fills). I would prefer detail and clarity in the midrange and have the subs take over the lower frequecies. I listen to mostly R&B, hiphop, alternative. Thanks


i'd do the id mids simply because they're made to be in a car door unlike the peerless and seas and i'll guarantee they'll have better midbass with the higher qts they have. really the specs are perfect for a car door...and you can cross them higher without beaming.


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## XpME36M3 (Jun 24, 2006)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> i'd do the id mids simply because they're made to be in a car door unlike the peerless and seas and i'll guarantee they'll have better midbass with the higher qts they have. really the specs are perfect for a car door...and you can cross them higher without beaming.


Except mine is going in the Kickpanel  

which would u recommend then?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> trust me, i totally agree with boners being nothing more than temporary kings. when i first joined diyma every single thread had "seas ca18rnx" and "seas neo" in it.


Nah, when you joined it was likely CA18RNX and the LPG tweets 

You should look at the ID and CA18RNX spec-wise side-by side, you will be surprised how similar they are. I suspect that if I replace my seas that little to no work will have to be done in tuning. That day may be coming  I think the ID's may just handle a bit more abuse.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

got mine in and i love them!  very pleased.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

chad said:


> Nah, when you joined it was likely CA18RNX and the LPG tweets
> 
> You should look at the ID and CA18RNX spec-wise side-by side, you will be surprised how similar they are. I suspect that if I replace my seas that little to no work will have to be done in tuning. *That day may be coming*  I think the ID's may just handle a bit more abuse.


You've been talking about it for awhile, man. Take the plunge.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

BEAVER said:


> You've been talking about it for awhile, man. Take the plunge.


I'm so afraid they won't fit, and there was this guy last night on here that had these JBL's for sale... HMMMMM


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## sixpointslo (Aug 14, 2008)

I'm interested in these. Been running a 880prs with RE audio 6.5's with aura tweets active for awhile and I'm really tired of the horrible vocals of the RE mids. Midbass is great, but midrange and vocals are really lacking and I haven't found any amount of EQ'ing and crossover points that has made it sound good, acceptable on some songs yes, but not too good sounding on most.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

sixpointslo said:


> I'm interested in these. Been running a 880prs with RE audio 6.5's with aura tweets active for awhile and I'm really tired of the horrible vocals of the RE mids. Midbass is great, but midrange and vocals are really lacking and I haven't found any amount of EQ'ing and crossover points that has made it sound good, acceptable on some songs yes, but not too good sounding on most.


where the ID's really shine is overall clarity. they have a really smooth mid-range. mid-bass of course is nice too. but i bought them for the mid-range clarity.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

w00t, I am hoping for midrange clarity.

I just follow the boner wherever it goes. Thinking for yourself is for communists.


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## Jopop (Jun 23, 2008)

sixpointslo said:


> I'm interested in these. Been running a 880prs with RE audio 6.5's with aura tweets active for awhile and I'm really tired of the horrible vocals of the RE mids. Midbass is great, but midrange and vocals are really lacking and I haven't found any amount of EQ'ing and crossover points that has made it sound good, acceptable on some songs yes, but not too good sounding on most.


Those RE's are ridiculous. I think they're meant to be small subs, not mids.


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## Jopop (Jun 23, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> w00t, I am hoping for midrange clarity.
> 
> I just follow the boner wherever it goes. Thinking for yourself is for communists.


You won't believe the Hertz / Audison boner up here in snowmanland  So far I've not been overly impressed.. except for the cheap Dieci component set in my drift car, that sounds suprisingly good.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

capnxtreme said:


> w00t, I am hoping for midrange clarity.
> 
> I just follow the boner wherever it goes. Thinking for yourself is for communists.


ROFL!!!!!! That was great.

I'm still dieing to get these mids installed in my car. I've had them for about 5 months now and haven't had a chance to build the pods for them yet. Go figure.


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

I don't think the ID OEMs are a forum boner just because they have been for sale for quite some time now and there are not posts mentioning them all over the place. I was reccomended the ID OEMs by several people I trust on the forum who said these were the next best thing to the CA18RNX for less money.

Unfortunately, other than our ears, most of us don't have measurement equipment to do the kind of detailed analysis you are looking for. Sorry.  For what it is worth, I have them crossed at 4khz, they are in the stock locations of my door panels, off-axis, and are being fed 125 watts. I have had it cranked at fairly high levels with different types of music and have not heard any distortion or breakup.

While I understand your caution in not wanting to get sucked into buying a forum boner and your desire for objective measurements, this is all I can offer. Read the different reviews. Read the reviews by the folks who are not into forum boners.

If you check hessdawg's original thread, you will note that these drivers are very similar to a specific ID mid. He even has pics posted with a side by side comparison of the two. Go check the specs on the ID mid. Maybe the measurements you are looking for are on the ID website.



86mr2 said:


> Yep, there is the issue for me right there. So far, all I have seen about this driver is that it sounds great for the price, and it is pretty. I have not actually seen much in the way of comparisons to other drivers, particularly those that have known measurements available.
> 
> I am sure it sounds great for the price, but living in the great white north, I am not really in a position to audition a bunch of different drivers, and buying and changing stuff all the time gets expensive shipping wise. My own interests are in building a non-fatiguing, low distortion system for my car. For this reason I am interested in the distortion performance of drivers, and not being made of money, I am not inclined to just go out and buy a Revelator to accomplish it.
> 
> ...


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

snaimpally said:


> If you check hessdawg's original thread, you will note that these drivers are very similar to a specific ID mid. He even has pics posted with a side by side comparison of the two. Go check the specs on the ID mid. Maybe the measurements you are looking for are on the ID website.


 I couldn't find it. It would be sweet if someone had this.


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

I've got the info on the specs somewhere... It's also embedded in Hessdawgs eleventy-billion page ID OEM's thread!


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

Right here!
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34908&highlight=Specs+OEMs


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## Jopop (Jun 23, 2008)

The ID site used to have lots of specs and info etc IIRC but they're all gone now


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

chad said:


> Nah, when you joined it was likely CA18RNX and the LPG tweets
> 
> You should look at the ID and CA18RNX spec-wise side-by side, you will be surprised how similar they are. I suspect that if I replace my seas that little to no work will have to be done in tuning. That day may be coming  I think the ID's may just handle a bit more abuse.


naw the seas new was just starting to get big around here. i know people around here seem to love them but to me both the aluminum and textile neo tweets just sound like a cheap neo tweeter. for tight places i guess they're ok but if you have the room and/or budget for something better there's much better options.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

ok, so i probably have a 8-10 hours of good hard listening with these now. the mid-range still sounds extremely clear, and smooth, but it seems to have gotten a little stronger, or it could just be me. but i did run back and turn up the gain on the tweeter channels on my amp just a hair, so maybe the overall sensitivity of these has increased slightly. mid-bass has definitely increased quite a bit since day one and is still just as clear and tight. seems to have increased pretty steadily and probably will continue to increase a little bit more i'm guessing. 

as of now they have a slight edge over my previous mids(the rsd mids) in terms of mid-bass output and they totally blow them out of the water in clarity and every other way possible. there is no comparison.

when i put them in i started with my EQ flat just to get a base, and i increased 80hz and 125hz by one step and cut 800hz and 1.25khz by one step. and that is all. no real sharp EQ'ing is needed with them in my install.

i have my sub at 63hz, the ID's playing from 80hz up to 2.5khz, and the tweeters from the RSD set playing from 4k and up, all at 12db slopes. seems relatively flat to my ears.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I finally got these installed in my Scion yesterday. I only have about an hour worth of listening time on them so far though. I can tell you one thing for sure, they are A LOT more sensitive than the 6.5's they replaced. God lord! The midrange is very nice and detailed now. But I still need to get everything dialed in. Right out of the box impressions are good though. They have nice midbass output and the midrange is also very clean. I'll post a much better review after I get them broken in and tuned properly.

Zach


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

the mid-bass just keeps getting better and better as time goes on it seems. and they definitely have gotten noticeably more sensitive/efficient. i used to listen a lot at around 48-52 on my volume knob(depending on the recording) and now i find myself at around 45-50 as my "extreme level". these continue to amaze me.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

Boostedrex said:


> I finally got these installed in my Scion yesterday. I only have about an hour worth of listening time on them so far though. I can tell you one thing for sure, they are A LOT more sensitive than the 6.5's they replaced. God lord! The midrange is very nice and detailed now. But I still need to get everything dialed in. Right out of the box impressions are good though. They have nice midbass output and the midrange is also very clean. I'll post a much better review after I get them broken in and tuned properly.
> 
> Zach


you have the first gen XB right?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> you have the first gen XB right?


Yep 1st gen xB. The ID's are only temp mounted right now though. I have them on an 1.5" baffle and have cut out the factory grills. The mids are just past where the grills would've been. I'm just using them this way to start breaking them in until my new order from U.S. Composites comes in. Then I'll be making fiberglass pods that will aim the ID's pretty close to on axis. I'm actually going to point them to the center point in between the front seats.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

Boostedrex said:


> Yep 1st gen xB. The ID's are only temp mounted right now though. I have them on an 1.5" baffle and have cut out the factory grills. The mids are just past where the grills would've been. I'm just using them this way to start breaking them in until my new order from U.S. Composites comes in. Then I'll be making fiberglass pods that will aim the ID's pretty close to on axis. I'm actually going to point them to the center point in between the front seats.


nice! make sure to post pics somewhere. i'm interested to see that.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> nice! make sure to post pics somewhere. i'm interested to see that.


Will do.

And I figured out that I was limiting the bass output of these speakers. I forgot to adjust the EQ on my DRZ.  I had the bass toned down a decent bit because I was used to having my sub in the car. Without the sub in the car I didn't adjust the bass up any. I did an EQ adjustment of +2db @ 100Hz with a Q of 1.0 this morning and then did my 45 minute commute to work listening to Primus - They Can't All Be Zingers. Talk about a nice change!! The kick drum sounded great and the sound of Les picking and slapping on that bass was beautiful!!


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## redcalimp5 (Sep 10, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> the mid-bass just keeps getting better and better as time goes on it seems. and they definitely have gotten noticeably more sensitive/efficient. i used to listen a lot at around 48-52 on my volume knob(depending on the recording) and now i find myself at around 45-50 as my "extreme level". these continue to amaze me.


Awesome to hear you're pleased with them! I really noticed a big difference with mine after that initial two week period of daily driving, too.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

as far as eq goes mine are cut -5db at 250 with a q of 1.0 and -3 at 1khz with a q of 1.5. still at 80 and 2500 with 12 db slopes.


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## dftnz7 (Mar 2, 2008)

Wow that's a big cut at 250hz, what symptoms were they exhibiting?

From time to time on certain tracks I feel like I am picking up a resonance issue at 125hz that a -3dB cut will take right out of it. And also pick up a little sibilance at 3.15kz that a -2dB cut takes care of.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> as far as eq goes mine are cut -5db at 250 with a q of 1.0 and -3 at 1khz with a q of 1.5. still at 80 and 2500 with 12 db slopes.


those are some nasty cuts. i have mine a lot flatter than that. 

it must be your car or your ears.


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## bjayjr5679 (Nov 8, 2007)

Does anyone know if these will mate well with the vc100 tweets ran using the blau crossover?


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

bjayjr5679 said:


> Does anyone know if these will mate well with the vc100 tweets ran using the blau crossover?


Not yet, but I may be trying it soon. 

I have 2 more sets of the VC100s on the way, and some ID OEMs sitting in the dining room as we speak. 

When they get here I will try it with my home receiver and see how they sound. 

I would imagine they would work fine, its a 3k crossover point


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

el_chupo_ said:


> Not yet, but I may be trying it soon.
> 
> I have 2 more sets of the VC100s on the way, and some ID OEMs sitting in the dining room as we speak.
> 
> ...


3k should work well on them. i got mine at 2.5k, as do quite a few people.


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> 3k should work well on them. i got mine at 2.5k, as do quite a few people.


I ran them for a while (inside on HT receiver) with the passives for the PRS720 set, which crosses at 2k, sound good there too.

Im thinking ill pair these up with one of the tweets I am accumulating, and run em arround 2.5 or 2.8k... But ill try the passives for fun too

And TCguy, have to taken the SEAS neo apart? I have the Vifa D26, and apart it will almost fit perfectly, need to find out about the actual tweeter diameter without the grill and such.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

el_chupo_ said:


> I ran them for a while (inside on HT receiver) with the passives for the PRS720 set, which crosses at 2k, sound good there too.
> 
> Im thinking ill pair these up with one of the tweets I am accumulating, and run em arround 2.5 or 2.8k... But ill try the passives for fun too
> 
> And TCguy, have to taken the SEAS neo apart? I have the Vifa D26, and apart it will almost fit perfectly, need to find out about the actual tweeter diameter without the grill and such.


nah, why would i take them apart? lol


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## maddog808 (Sep 5, 2008)

Does anyone know if this will fit in the front doors of a 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab?


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

maddog808 said:


> Does anyone know if this will fit in the front doors of a 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab?


Measure the mounting depth in your truck and then check the mounting depth posted by hessdawg. My Mazda 3 has relatively shallow mounting depth in the front doors but they fit without a problem. Get a pair before he sells all of his stock. These are a heck of deal. You'd have to spend close to twice as much to do better.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

UPDATE: changed my crossover points to 80hz 18db and 1600 24db. then brought the tweets in at 2khz 24db. MUCH more refined sound. i'm debating whether or not to throw my audax ht17's back in though. while the id's kill them in midbass the audax mids are definately smoother in the midrange area from what i can remember.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

i thought you didn't like tweeters crossed so low?!?!?

or am i thinking of the wrong person?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Like I have posted elsewhere, I am liking the OEM's a lot more now that they are dedicated midbass drivers playing from 63 - 250Hz.  I think I found the perfect application for them actually. These really are output monsters! Now I just need to get my 2nd set so I can get 2 in each door. I'll do a full review on them after that too.


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## BTA (Nov 5, 2005)

I installed mine earlier this week. So far I'm very happy with them.

I'm running them active on a PDX 4.150 along with some DLS UR1 tweeters. H701 for processing.

I havn't done any EQ'ing yet. Just set xovers and gain matched. Best Xover points for my install seem to be [email protected] to [email protected] Tweets are HP at about 2khz but i forget the slope. I messed with it for a while and it sounded pretty good anywhere up to about 2.5khz. I have these installed in modestly dampened doors, pretty far off-axis though.

I'm not sure about the posts stating weak midbass. These have impressed me quite a bit with midbass. Lots of clean punch. In fact right now I'm running them down to 20hz (yes 20) since my sub isnt installed right now. Granted they don't play much that low, being shoddily IB in a door, but I'm not getting any noticable distortion or muddy midbass from them like I have had before with other mids. And I've pushed them pretty hard like this. Keep in mind they wont stay this way, it's just for fun. Just thought it was cool they could stay clean playing so low.

These really shine in midrange clarity as well. I havn't had such nice midrange since I had my DLS IR3's installed. 

So far they are worth every penny.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> i thought you didn't like tweeters crossed so low?!?!?
> 
> or am i thinking of the wrong person?


i'm the right person and once i tightened the slopes up everything came together for the better.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> i'm the right person and once i tightened the slopes up everything came together for the better.


Strange but at that frequency for a tweeter it suppose to have better power handling with a 12dB slope then a 24dB since the 12db rolls off earlier and take away precious dBs at a critical point.


"the crossover point is about 1000hz in this diagram"

Cyan = 6dB/octave
Red = 12dB/octave
Green = 18dB/octave
Violet = 24dB/octave


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Strange but at that frequency for a tweeter it suppose to have better power handling with a 12dB slope then a 24dB since the 12db rolls off earlier and take away precious dBs at a critical point.
> 
> 
> "the crossover point is about 1000hz in this diagram"
> ...


a 24db slope cuts off stuff quicker. so i'd have to say that a 24db slope is safer on a tweeter than a 12db. look at 500hz on that graph, at 12db it's only down by 12db, where at 24db it's down 24db. i'd say thats where it's most important and effects power handling the greatest. 

i bet i could run my tweeters as low as 2k/24db, or 2.5k/12, but 2.5k/24 on the tweets and 2.5k/12db on the mids (that combo) sound good to me and gives me a flat response in that region on the rta. my setup actually sounds pretty wicked right now.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

> *i bet i could run my tweeters as low as 2k/24db, or 2.5k/12*, but 2.5k/24 on the tweets and 2.5k/12db on the mids (that combo) sound good to me and gives me a flat response in that region on the rta. my setup actually sounds pretty wicked right now.


Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. In my experience, the Neo starts running out of steam below 3.2/24db.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> a 24db slope cuts off stuff quicker. so i'd have to say that a 24db slope is safer on a tweeter than a 12db. look at 500hz on that graph, at 12db it's only down by 12db, where at 24db it's down 24db. i'd say thats where it's most important and effects power handling the greatest.
> 
> i bet i could run my tweeters as low as 2k/24db, or 2.5k/12, but 2.5k/24 on the tweets and 2.5k/12db on the mids (that combo) sound good to me and gives me a flat response in that region on the rta. my setup actually sounds pretty wicked right now.


http://zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html

Note: In the quote below, LR4 means the slope of the natural roll off from the tweeter combined with the electrical filter roll off. So LR4 probably means 12dB electrical slope filter and LR8 is a 24dB electrical like we knowing them in car audio active crossovers.

"Some listening tests at higher levels were required to make sure the tweeter was not under strain at this crossover point, and it passed with flying colors. In all cases, the woofers gave out first, either by exceeding Xmax in the low bass or by compressing the midbass and midrange. LR4 offers the highest power handling possible for a tweeter for a given crossover point. It almost seems counter intuitive that LR4 handles more power than LR6 or LR8, but that fact is that peak excursion happens above the crossover point for these filters, and LR4 starts it's rolloff much sooner than LR6 or LR8. As a result, the steeper slopes require a tweeter to have comparatively more ouput just above the crossover point. This can be simulated with excursion modeling, provided T/S parameters can be obtained for the tweeter. Remember that LR4 will always be your best option if you want the most power handling out of your tweeter."


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

BEAVER said:


> Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. In my experience, the Neo starts running out of steam below 3.2/24db.


i have them at 2.5k/24 and take it fine. i think it depends on the install and location. when i had them in the pillars they didn't sound right crossed low. now that they are in the kicks they sound great at 2.5k/24db. the review zaph did said they will be good down to 2k.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

t3sn4f2 said:


> http://zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html
> 
> Note: In the quote below, LR4 means the slope of the natural roll off from the tweeter combined with the electrical filter roll off. So LR4 probably means 12dB electrical slope filter and LR8 is a 24dB electrical like we knowing them in car audio active crossovers.
> 
> "Some listening tests at higher levels were required to make sure the tweeter was not under strain at this crossover point, and it passed with flying colors. In all cases, the woofers gave out first, either by exceeding Xmax in the low bass or by compressing the midbass and midrange. LR4 offers the highest power handling possible for a tweeter for a given crossover point. It almost seems counter intuitive that LR4 handles more power than LR6 or LR8, but that fact is that peak excursion happens above the crossover point for these filters, and LR4 starts it's rolloff much sooner than LR6 or LR8. As a result, the steeper slopes require a tweeter to have comparatively more ouput just above the crossover point. This can be simulated with excursion modeling, provided T/S parameters can be obtained for the tweeter. Remember that LR4 will always be your best option if you want the most power handling out of your tweeter."


intersting.  but... if you look at 1.5k it's only a 1db difference. very small difference. the stuff after the crossover point is a much bigger difference. i understand what he's saying though.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

BEAVER said:


> Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. In my experience, the Neo starts running out of steam below 3.2/24db.


i'll agree that's a pretty safe crossover point for the neo tweets no matter how loud you go within reason. only reason i'm crossing so low is because i have 3 replacement coils for my tweets in the closetit sounds good this way so i'm rolling with it. i'm actually going to put my audax mids back in. listening tastes are changing on me for some reason.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

funny how that happens. a few months ago you were raving about these ID's, now your swapping them back out for something you've ran in the past.

anyway, yesterday i bought the Disturbed cd "down with the sickness" and the mid-bass on that cd is crazy. the whole cd actually sounds pretty damn good. i actually found a new rattle in my doors while listening to it. they have been pretty damn quite until i put this cd in. it's actually air trying to escape through the seals by the windows where they slide up and down in the doors. not sure what to do about that, if anything.

the mid-bass on these puppies has gotten quite impressive after break in, and way better than the RSD mids they replaced. i'm also still completely satisfied with the mid-range on these. 

as for the seas tweets. plenty of people cross them low (like me) with great results. hell, i had my cheap-o 3/4" RSD tweets crossed at 2.5k/24db with 100 watts on tap for each and they survived it.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

i'm just wanting a change. they'll end up back in my doors eventually. just checked the first page and have been using them for about 7 months nowmight keep them in through the winter to make it a solid year


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

"with eq on flat they sounded better than anything else i've used to date. VERY acceptable." - from your 1st post in this thread.

"while the id's kill them in midbass the audax mids are definately smoother in the midrange area from what i can remember." - from post #81. 

lol. its funny how either our ears, or sonic goals in our heads change.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

tcguy85 said:


> intersting.  but... if you look at 1.5k it's only a 1db difference. very small difference. the stuff after the crossover point is a much bigger difference. i understand what he's saying though.


Sorry for the off topic Hillbilly, just one more time. 

That chart is for a Butterworth filter which only has -3dB at the xover point. Car audio filters are mostly LR which are -6dB at the crossover point.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Ok after an a/b test the audax mids aren't as refined as I remember. Will still with the image mids as long as they stay alive.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Man, I used to get flammed when I talked about how great the CX6 midbass was...and now everyone is raving about them. Mine were usually ran down to 50 hertz at 24 dB/octave. Once ran them to 40.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

thehatedguy said:


> Man, I used to get flammed when I talked about how great the CX6 midbass was...and now everyone is raving about them. Mine were usually ran down to 50 hertz at 24 dB/octave. Once ran them to 40.


No, you're missing the point. They're cool now because they're "OEM mids" with no logo. They also sell cheaper than the CX6 mids would if you bought them straight from ID. That makes them automatically sound better! I thought you would know that kind of thing, NOOB!!!!  ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's funny how things change from time to time on the forum though huh?

Zach


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Yeah I know what you are saying...lol, and it is true.


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## dftnz7 (Mar 2, 2008)

maddog808 said:


> Does anyone know if this will fit in the front doors of a 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab?



They fit with plenty of room to spare in my 04 Ram QC. I have a 6x9 MDF adapter baffle and I could probably fit something 1.5" deeper or more into the door. You have a lot of room to work with in these trucks.


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Hillbilly we need some updates please!


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Just to clear up some controversy from various people calling me out I'm going to give a follow-up review.

Before getting the ID mids I had gone through a whole slew of turds with most of them being forum boners that were praised by people that either had their bar set too low or liked a different sound than I do. The ID marine mids were the best match for my install and listening tastes that I had used to date. One thing I might have failed to mention in the review is that on axis these mids have noticable distortion. Off axis you don't hear it but knowing it's still there made me decide to go ahead and swap them out. I also decided that the highest these mids should be crossed to maintain a somewhat refined sound is 1600 at 24db. Install and tuning variables can and will change where these things like to be crossed.

In closing if you're coming from something like the pg rsd mids you still won't be disapointed. If you've been using drivers that are very low in distortion look elsewhere. Calling people out for praising something and later changing their mind is just plain childish. People progress at different stages in pretty much anything. A lot of people are happy with their crappy stock papercones and you can't fault them for that.


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Just to clear up some controversy from various people calling me out I'm going to give a follow-up review.
> 
> Before getting the ID mids I had gone through a whole slew of turds with most of them being forum boners that were praised by people that either had their bar set too low or liked a different sound than I do. The ID marine mids were the best match for my install and listening tastes that I had used to date. One thing I might have failed to mention in the review is that on axis these mids have noticable distortion. Off axis you don't hear it but knowing it's still there made me decide to go ahead and swap them out. I also decided that the highest these mids should be crossed to maintain a somewhat refined sound is 1600 at 24db. Install and tuning variables can and will change where these things like to be crossed.
> 
> In closing if you're coming from something like the pg rsd mids you still won't be disapointed. If you've been using drivers that are very low in distortion look elsewhere. *Calling people out for praising something and later changing their mind is just plain childish.* People progress at different stages in pretty much anything. A lot of people are happy with their crappy stock papercones and you can't fault them for that.


If this is in reference to me I'm sorry if you feel I was calling you out. I just wanted some clarification on your thoughts now. I bought a pair of these mids awhile back because of the decent reviews they had as well as the price. I have yet to install them so I just wanted to hear opinions on them from someone who has used them. And when I saw your post in you "Most overated thread" I was a little shocked to hear your thoughts about them now. I understand peoples opinions/expectations change continuously. In fact if they didn't life would be pretty boring!

So does anyone else have any thoughts on these mids since using them?

My plans were to install them off axis in my doors for midbass duties. Do you think the distortion you are hearing is in specific frequencies or throughout the range you were playing them at?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

cheesehead said:


> If this is in reference to me I'm sorry if you feel I was calling you out. I just wanted some clarification on your thoughts now. I bought a pair of these mids awhile back because of the decent reviews they had as well as the price. I have yet to install them so I just wanted to hear opinions on them from someone who has used them. And when I saw your post in you "Most overated thread" I was a little shocked to hear your thoughts about them now. I understand peoples opinions/expectations change continuously. In fact if they didn't life would be pretty boring!
> 
> So does anyone else have any thoughts on these mids since using them?
> 
> My plans were to install them off axis in my doors for midbass duties. Do you think the distortion you are hearing is in specific frequencies or throughout the range you were playing them at?


Don't worry it wasn't you that triggered the blue letters. It was people that like to sniff their own fartsOf course I'm poking fun at people like cvjoint for pointing out how twisted I am. I'm in agreement with boostedrex that these mids are at home as a dedicated midbass. You can cross them low and send gobs of power to them and they don't seem to care. The distortion I was hearing is most likely from a breakup node that hasn't been measured yet because we don't have a way to get one klippeled. According to Eric Stevens these ARE NOT a clone of the cs6 mids and are indeed completely different.


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## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Don't worry it wasn't you that triggered the blue letters. It was people that like to sniff their own fartsOf course I'm poking fun at people like cvjoint for pointing out how twisted I am. I'm in agreement with boostedrex that these mids are at home as a dedicated midbass. You can cross them low and send gobs of power to them and they don't seem to care. The distortion I was hearing is most likely from a breakup node that hasn't been measured yet because we don't have a way to get one klippeled. According to Eric Stevens these ARE NOT a clone of the cs6 mids and are indeed completely different.


 On both accounts!


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

cheesehead said:


> If this is in reference to me I'm sorry if you feel I was calling you out. I just wanted some clarification on your thoughts now. I bought a pair of these mids awhile back because of the decent reviews they had as well as the price. I have yet to install them so I just wanted to hear opinions on them from someone who has used them. And when I saw your post in you "Most overated thread" I was a little shocked to hear your thoughts about them now. I understand peoples opinions/expectations change continuously. In fact if they didn't life would be pretty boring!
> 
> *So does anyone else have any thoughts on these mids since using them?
> *
> My plans were to install them off axis in my doors for midbass duties. Do you think the distortion you are hearing is in specific frequencies or throughout the range you were playing them at?


Not a bad driver. I think they would be great in a 3 way for a mid bass. Lets face it these little bastards do pound. I find 2 way to be somewhat difficult for any midbass, and to say it is horrible is a little off.....honestly it is not a bad driver. I would just not try to cross it too high, I had them mated with the large format HDS tweeter and it was not a bad set up.....honeslty for the $90 in the set I can not complain.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I am wanting to get a set of these! Can you guys show me how you are mounting these in the doors or kicks. I was thinking about getting these and either the ID ctx65cs or some sscs6's.... which one you guys prefer?

By the way i am driving a ext. cab silverado


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

cheesehead said:


> If this is in reference to me I'm sorry if you feel I was calling you out. I just wanted some clarification on your thoughts now. I bought a pair of these mids awhile back because of the decent reviews they had as well as the price. I have yet to install them so I just wanted to hear opinions on them from someone who has used them. And when I saw your post in you "Most overated thread" I was a little shocked to hear your thoughts about them now. I understand peoples opinions/expectations change continuously. In fact if they didn't life would be pretty boring!
> 
> So does anyone else have any thoughts on these mids since using them?
> 
> My plans were to install them off axis in my doors for midbass duties. Do you think the distortion you are hearing is in specific frequencies or throughout the range you were playing them at?


I've said it before and I'll say it again. These drivers aren't bad in a 2 way with a capable tweeter, but I think there are better options out there. However, as a dedicated midbass the OEMs really shine. They work well IB in a door, take plenty of power, have incredible impact, and I have yet to find their limits while running from 63-250Hz with 400 watts on them. I'm installing a 2nd set in my doors and officially ending my "midbass quest" if that tells you anything.

Zach


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

03z-71 said:


> I am wanting to get a set of these! Can you guys show me how you are mounting these in the doors or kicks. I was thinking about getting these and either the ID ctx65cs or some sscs6's.... which one you guys prefer?
> 
> By the way i am driving a ext. cab silverado


When my mdf rings collapsed I went back behind the panels and mounted them to cutting board. Also used closed cell foam to seal the panel against the rest of the door so the rear waves wouldn't interfere with the front waves.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

that is not a pic of the ID oem is it? Doesn't look like it! i have my mb quarts in the door right there


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

03z-71 said:


> that is not a pic of the ID oem is it? Doesn't look like it! i have my mb quarts in the door right there


Yes OEM ID in the bottom,


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

unpredictableacts said:


> Not a bad driver. I think they would be great in a 3 way for a mid bass. Lets face it these little bastards do pound. I find 2 way to be somewhat difficult for any midbass, and to say it is horrible is a little off.....honestly it is not a bad driver. I would just not try to cross it too high, I had them mated with the large format HDS tweeter and it was not a bad set up.....honeslty for the $90 in the set I can not complain.


x2



03z-71 said:


> I am wanting to get a set of these! Can you guys show me how you are mounting these in the doors or kicks. I was thinking about getting these and either the ID ctx65cs or some sscs6's.... which one you guys prefer?
> 
> By the way i am driving a ext. cab silverado













I'm using mine from 80hz-1.25khz - loving them so far!


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

so that 8" will fit in the doors and take the place of my 6.5" Mb quart? I am wanting another set of components anyway!

SO, i could just put the OEM 8" there and leave my mb quart tweeter for right now? Would it be best to get another component set to got with these mid? I was thinking about getting a ID 6.5 component set. Or would that be too many speakers?


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## BLACKonBLACK98 (Apr 5, 2008)

id oem = 6.5"


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

ooh OK thanks! So what would be a good tweeter to pair with these?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

03z-71 said:


> ooh OK thanks! So what would be a good tweeter to pair with these?


If you are going 2 way and I assume active I would suggest that has been proevn to be able to play low without a problem. Since you are saving money on the mids I would suggest a nice capable tweeter......Hiquphon/HDS.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I am assuming what you guys are talking about active and passive is if they are amped that would be active right? Sorry! I have taken alot over the last week on this site. I really like this site! I will catch up soon..

I have a 80x2 4ohms on my Mb Quarts and that amp will go 140x2 2ohms. I might need another amp than this haven't I? Will i still have to keep my MB quart crossover in my doors just wired these and some tweets? OR will i need a whole different amp just for tweets? Is there a way to get these down to 2ohms


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

03z-71 said:


> I am assuming what you guys are talking about active and passive is if they are amped that would be active right? Sorry! I have taken alot over the last week on this site. I really like this site! I will catch up soon..
> 
> I have a 80x2 4ohms on my Mb Quarts and that amp will go 140x2 2ohms. I might need another amp than this haven't I? Will i still have to keep my MB quart crossover in my doors just wired these and some tweets? OR will i need a whole different amp just for tweets? Is there a way to get these down to 2ohms


Active and passvie is about processing and or xover set ups. Most out of the box componenet sets offer a xover network along with the mid and tweeter...when this is used the passive xover is your processing and callls the shots on where and how your drivers will be crossed. You will find that most, but not all prefer to ease of active because it allows to use of different drivers. You will also notice that most, not all, change drivers as often as they do under wear. 

To use this driver you ill need to figure out if you have the needed processing in you amplifier of is passive will be needed? Unless of course you Head unit is capable of a active set up......if you are new and igore be prepared to spend some coin......however researching and digging may save you some money if done fully on your end.

I hope that I answered you questions and if anyone feels they should add to this please do.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I have a kenwood DVD/LCD 7" screen. It will adjust the crossover points on and slopes on the Front, Rear, and sub seperately! Will that work.

The amp i have running my MB Quarts is a temporary one i got out of my wifes old car when she was in HS. It is nothing fancy, so I doubt it has many adjustments. I need to sell thsis one!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JcMZm2ZPJM5/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?o=m&g=110&i=235USB2080&c=3&tp=14

So i'm guessing that amp won't work for the OEM's and tweets will it?


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

where can i get peerless HDS? They are 8 ohms i assume? How would i power those? I am sorry I am really getting confused...LOL

I have a lot to learn!


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

03z-71 said:


> where can i get peerless HDS? They are 8 ohms i assume? How would i power those? I am sorry I am really getting confused...LOL
> 
> I have a lot to learn!


http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1744

You can power them with essentially any amplifier out there. Stability only becomes relevant when you are reaching below 4 ohms (though most amplifiers are at least 2 ohm stable).


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

Basically, when going active you need the necessary processing and a channel of amplification for each driver. So for a traditional 2-way front stage you will need 4 channels of amplification.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

Ok i don't have a 4ch amp. I haven't run any rear fill in my ext. cab truck in years! I get what you are saying though. I will have to run another wire to my door.

but wouldn't 8ohms make my amp put out less power?


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## 86mr2 (Apr 29, 2005)

The "Real Deal" with 8 ohm drivers


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

03z-71 said:


> Ok i don't have a 4ch amp. I haven't run any rear fill in my ext. cab truck in years! I get what you are saying though. I will have to run another wire to my door.


You can actually just keep your 2 channel and pick up another 2 channel amp. I don't have rear fill and I have an SUV  You won't miss it once you are running active. 



03z-71 said:


> but wouldn't 8ohms make my amp put out less power?


Yes, but a tweeter needs next to nothing to perform well (that link posted is a pretty cool read).


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

Would the Peerless TG9-4 ohms 3.5" Full Range Driver go well with that Peerless HDS tweeter? Would the ID OEM, TG-9, and HDS all in my door be too much? 

I was going to make something like this for my silverado doors. I can fit the 3.5" in there with the ID OEM I"m sure. Maybe somebody could chime in on that! I'll do the ID OEM in the stock hole. Then Put the 3.5" where my tweeters are now, and move the HDS up higher on the door.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

The hds tweets can cross low enough to cleanly mate with these mids. I've fiddled with the ID OEM/hds tweet combo in unpredictableacts last car and I can honestly say I couldn't seem to bog them down. I quit dropping the frequency at about 1500hz though since they weren't my tweets lol.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

So there is really no need for the TG9 then i suppose since you just used the ID OEM and HDS! 

The TG9 would through my amping out of wack. I have some Raamat coming in this week and I am going to just do my front doors, ext. cab doors, and the rear wall were my amp rack is.

Then put the ID OEM's and HDS tweets right in place of my MB Quarts are to start with.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

Sorry to keep at this, but i am going to install my id oem's today or saturday... I haven't ordered my tweets yet! I can't decide what to do. 

Do you think that i shouldn't bother with the TG9's? I have installed a 250w x 2 amp for the ID's. It is going to be interesting to see how they sound with no tweets or anything! I'm taking out my MB quarts components and just running these by themselves. I just can't decide if i want to throw the TG9's in my door with the OEM and HDS tweets up higher on my door. 

Sorry for all the questions!


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

The hds tweets can cross comfortably down to 1500hz 24db. All I can see the tg9's doing is complicating things. Whether you put the tweets in stock locations or up high in the pillars you don't need the smaller mids unless you have proper processing to cross everything over correctly. The ID mids are geared more for good midbass from 50-500ish but still stay pretty clean up to about 1500hz as long as they're off axis. If you have something like an h701, drz, dcx730, etc by all means use the tg9's. Otherwise don't bother.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

do i set it on high or flat? I'll let you know what i think...


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Set what? Are you using the amps internal crossovers?


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I installed these today! First impressions is the sound good a clear... I have them crossed at 60hz


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Put it on highpass and set the crossover at roughly 2500hz to start with. What kind of amp are you using?


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I am going to be getting an Xtant A4004 for these and another little amp for my tweets!

SO i don't have anything fancy on these right now, just amps i have laying around! I have an MA Audio 250rms x 2 on there right now...

Was 60hz to low or are you saying i need to break them in?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

What Hu are you using...I know where you can get a great deal on a 880prs to ru these active.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

Kenwood Excelon XXV-05Vd 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XXV05V/Kenwood-Excelon-XXV-05V.html?tp=75


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

unpredictableacts said:


> What Hu are you using...I know where you can get a great deal on a 880prs to ru these active.


I would be all over this if I was you.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

03z-71 said:


> I am going to be getting an Xtant A4004 for these and another little amp for my tweets!
> 
> SO i don't have anything fancy on these right now, just amps i have laying around! I have an MA Audio 250rms x 2 on there right now...
> 
> Was 60hz to low or are you saying i need to break them in?


Run the mids without a highpass for a couple weeks to get them limbered up. They can handle it just fine. Just don't get stupid with the volume and don't let them bottom out. I'm saying start with a HIGHPASS of 2500 on the tweets and a LOWPASS on the mids of about 2khz to start with and tweak from there.Then after a week or 2 give the mids a crossover point of around 80hz on the bottom end. They have a HUGE bloating sensation in the lower midbass that needs to be taken care of with crossover gapping.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

UCF52 said:


> I would be all over this if I was you.


x2. I've tuned with the exact headunit being mentioned several times in the current owner/sellers car and can guarantee it's flawless in performance and looks. I'd buy it local from him since he's a good friend of mine but am holding out for the new eclipse deadhead.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> x2. I've tuned with the exact headunit being mentioned several times in the current owner/sellers car and can guarantee it's flawless in performance and looks. I'd buy it local from him since he's a good friend of mine but am holding out for the new eclipse deadhead.


7200? I knew they released a small batch earlier this year... are they still hard to get?


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## zwc0442 (Oct 24, 2008)

I was thinking about picking a set of these up and trying them out. I was going to try an active set up. Right now I'm running a set of qsd's passive, how would these mids compare the the qsd's?


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

atm, ive got a set of lotus performance tweets highpassed at 5.5khz. any lower and they get shrill in their current mounting position. i just ordered a set of these mids cuz i hear their midrange is spectacular as well as their midbass. would taking them up to the 5khz region be a bit much on them? ive currently got lotus performance mids but the upper end of the spectrum isnt so pronounced.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Pseudonym said:


> atm, ive got a set of lotus performance tweets highpassed at 5.5khz. any lower and they get shrill in their current mounting position. i just ordered a set of these mids cuz i hear their midrange is spectacular as well as their midbass. would taking them up to the 5khz region be a bit much on them? ive currently got lotus performance mids but the upper end of the spectrum isnt so pronounced.


Yes, 5KHz is a bit of a stretch for these mids. IME anything over about 3.5KHz is too high. Ideally I would keep them LP'd below 3KHz though. You are right about them having GREAT midbass ability though. 

Zach


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

im gonna play around with it when i get them. right now ive got the seas lowpassed at 4khz and it sounds good but that midrange isnt quite all there. its gonna be a tossup between these oem's and some re xxx mids ive got. we'll see which ones extend the highest cuz both will have amazing output down low.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Mine should be here in a couple of days . I have to send one of my JL C5-650 mids back because it has developed a rub in the coil that is noticable at low volumes. It still plays, but sounds like doo-doo at low volumes .

In the last two years I have ran several sets of comps so I will add my .02 on how the ID OEM stacks up (Diamond D6, Alpine SPX-177R, OZ Audio 180cs, Hertz K8L and JL C5-650). I have several tweeters to play with to get a good combination (Seas Neo Textile, MB Quart QTD25 and JL soft dome). I might even get a set of Seas Neo Alums to try as well.

I just received my new sub which is an Image Dynamics IDQ 15.2 v2 and ran it for a little while today and it mates up real well with my front stage.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Pseudonym said:


> im gonna play around with it when i get them. right now ive got the seas lowpassed at 4khz and it sounds good but that midrange isnt quite all there. its gonna be a tossup between these oem's and some re xxx mids ive got. we'll see which ones extend the highest cuz both will have amazing output down low.


I'm sure you already know this, but keep in mind that you can underlap your X-over points a bit and it will work just fine. For example, my mids are LP'd at 4KHz 12db/oct and my tweets don't pick up until 6KHz 12db/oct and there are ZERO noticeable gaps in my frequency response. I'm about to lower the mid LP to 3KHz and run a 6db slope on the mid and tweet. So you may not need the OEM to play up all that high. Especially if your tweets are mounted near your mids. Just some food for thought.

Zach


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

Boostedrex said:


> I'm sure you already know this, but keep in mind that you can underlap your X-over points a bit and it will work just fine. For example, my mids are LP'd at 4KHz 12db/oct and my tweets don't pick up until 6KHz 12db/oct and there are ZERO noticeable gaps in my frequency response. I'm about to lower the mid LP to 3KHz and run a 6db slope on the mid and tweet. So you may not need the OEM to play up all that high. Especially if your tweets are mounted near your mids. Just some food for thought.
> 
> Zach


yea im aware of that. im still lacking the upper midrange in my setup though and i was just wondering if these could extend that high.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Nevermind, the OEM's didn't die.  There is something else wrong in my setup, but I haven't figured it out yet. So the OEM's can take 400 watts. LOL!! Now I just have to troubleshoot what is looking like either a wiring problem or my hu is screwing up. 

Zach


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

Damn, that's too bad. Good to know they don't like 400w  What do you plan on replacing them with?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Ninja delete!!


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