# Audison Bit One (Hi-res: 56k, Go make some coffee and take a nap)



## ErinH

*Audison Bit One Guts (Hi-res: 56k, Go make some coffee and take a nap)*

Didn't want to, but had to take this apart to make sure the bit one wasn't the culprit of my EMI issues. Figured I'd snap some pics while I was at it. I don't know wtf I'm really looking at, but figured some of you EE guys might enjoy seeing this.

Pictures should be plenty self explanatory, but I provided some sort of 'legend' just in case.

(and, no, the bit one isn't the issue)


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## ErinH




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## thehatedguy

Those junk JRC opamps would be the first thing I would change out. Next would be the caps next to them.


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## quality_sound

ugh...you're killin' me Erin!! lol


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## Mic10is

Fred never came up with an answer on the other post but Can BItone sum a pair of outputs to mono?


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## 60ndown

i can see 3 cold solder joints.





























































*PSYCH!*


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## UCF52

That's a relatively small processor, pretty cool.


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## ErinH

I asked over there, too... but does anyone know if this has balanced outputs? I don't have a way to tell.


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## AVIDEDTR

thehatedguy said:


> Those junk JRC opamps would be the first thing I would change out. Next would be the caps next to them.


What's so bad about the parts iniside?


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## kyheng

JRC is old brand, now is NJR....
Maybe you will have hardware support problem when any of these opamps failed.
I once faced with such problem and unable to find a replacement because JRC put very very minimum infos on their products nulike Texas Instruments.


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## autofile

Well, you might prefer other opamps, but I can say one thing: the BitOne is an exceptionally good sounding unit.



thehatedguy said:


> Those junk JRC opamps would be the first thing I would change out. Next would be the caps next to them.


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## ErinH

Truth. I love the way this thing sounds. I'm only running iPod source right now, but it sounds great and truly sounds more refined than the h701. I"m not about to say it's leaps and bounds better... at least not until I can properly set things up, but for now, I'll just say that I'm not sorry I made the switch in the least bit.


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## HIS4

bikinpunk said:


> Truth. I love the way this thing sounds. I'm only running iPod source right now, but it sounds great and truly sounds more refined than the h701. I"m not about to say it's leaps and bounds better... at least not until I can properly set things up, but for now, I'll just say that I'm not sorry I made the switch in the least bit.


I still haven't really found anywhere that I can get one. Are these pretty much unobtainium right now?


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## fit_tuner

not sure if this was covered in another thread, but do you happen to have the dimensions of the unit and the controller?


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## thehatedguy

You could take the sound of that processor up several notches with an opamp change. Big notches.


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## ErinH

HIS4 said:


> I still haven't really found anywhere that I can get one. Are these pretty much unobtainium right now?


pretty much.


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## autofile

thehatedguy said:


> You could take the sound of that processor up several notches with an opamp change. Big notches.


Interesting. Which opamps would you recommend as "direct, plug in" replacements? (as in no mods to the board other than desoldering old opamps and soldering in the new opamp, no jumpers, etc etc.

What sonic benefit would they achieve over the stock opamps?

Same question about the caps you mention earlier.


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## Babs

Coax and toslink inputs!! yeeehaw... I saw one portable player with optical out, that's about it. That'd be the bomb running direct digital from a player as a "music server" to this thing.


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## 14642

bikinpunk said:


> I asked over there, too... but does anyone know if this has balanced outputs? I don't have a way to tell.


You can tell for sure that it does NOT have them if you find continuity between the output shields and chassis ground.


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## ErinH

Babs said:


> Coax and toslink inputs!! yeeehaw... I saw one portable player with optical out, that's about it. That'd be the bomb running direct digital from a player as a "music server" to this thing.


Plus, you can EQ the sources on the bit one. So, if there’s something you don’t like about the source, you can EQ it. THEN you can EQ the environment on the overall EQ. 



Andy Wehmeyer said:


> You can tell for sure that it does NOT have them if you find continuity between the output shields and chassis ground.


I don’t have a DMM anymore. I had been borrowing one for 2 years and just gave it back last week.


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## Babs

bikinpunk said:


> Plus, you can EQ the sources on the bit one. So, if there’s something you don’t like about the source, you can EQ it. THEN you can EQ the environment on the overall EQ.


And though folks might not think it to be a big deal.. direct digital in means just one single solitary D/A conversion as it should be. Cleeeeeean!


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## kyheng

Well, by knowing the technical details(briefly) on some of the main ICs, it only have 4 codecs(ADC and DAC together in 1 single IC, which will reduce noise if were compare to H701)


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## 14642

bikinpunk said:


> I don’t have a DMM anymore. I had been borrowing one for 2 years and just gave it back last week.


Go to Sears and buy one for 20 bucks.


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## BenVollmer

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> Go to Sears and buy one for 20 bucks.


He was waiting for the MS8 to ship first....


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## ErinH

kyheng said:


> Well, by knowing the technical details(briefly) on some of the main ICs, it only have 4 codecs(ADC and DAC together in 1 single IC, which will reduce noise if were compare to H701)


That’s why I posted pics… for someone to start picking it apart. 





Andy Wehmeyer said:


> Go to Sears and buy one for 20 bucks.


Am actually trying to find a good fluke trueRMS meter, but it’s not easy finding one for cheap (ie: under $200).
Guess a multimeter is a multimeter for my purposes, though.


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## cubdenno

I recommend the Fluke 87.


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## Megalomaniac

cheap craftsman ones work fine. differences will only be decimal differences.


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## 14642

BenVollmer said:


> He was waiting for the MS8 to ship first....


When he has one of those, he won't need a DMM.


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## thehatedguy

Any standard dual SMD opamp would be a direct fit. Depending on what flavor you are looking for, I would start looking at Burr Brown OPA 2604s, 2107s, 2227s, Analog Devices 8499, and National Semiconductor LM4592s. TangentSoft and Head-Fi have reviews of different opamps.

Expect to pay $6-15 each for the duals.

If you wanted to get real trick, some Burr Brown OPA-627s on adapters would go too.

I have changed out JRC/NJR opamps in my Rane, Benchmark DAC1, and DSP-6 for some of the above chips and have always noticed a significant increase in SQ.

Capacitors, OS-Cons, Panasonic FCs, and Elma Cerafines would do the job really well without being super expensive like Black Gates. Larger values will offer better performance...as would putting through hole caps in place of the surface mounts.


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## ErinH

I'll send you $50 and you can mod mine for me. Maybe we can audison warranty it, too. 

lol


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## autofile

If it were yours, what would YOU do?

Please indulge me and excuse my ignorance here, but I am not fluent in the differences in opamp sound qualities or small cap sound qualities either.

Passive crossover components I know, but small circuit components not so much ;^)



thehatedguy said:


> Any standard dual SMD opamp would be a direct fit. Depending on what flavor you are looking for, I would start looking at Burr Brown OPA 2604s, 2107s, 2227s, Analog Devices 8499, and National Semiconductor LM4592s. TangentSoft and Head-Fi have reviews of different opamps.
> 
> Expect to pay $6-15 each for the duals.
> 
> If you wanted to get real trick, some Burr Brown OPA-627s on adapters would go too.
> 
> I have changed out JRC/NJR opamps in my Rane, Benchmark DAC1, and DSP-6 for some of the above chips and have always noticed a significant increase in SQ.
> 
> Capacitors, OS-Cons, Panasonic FCs, and Elma Cerafines would do the job really well without being super expensive like Black Gates. Larger values will offer better performance...as would putting through hole caps in place of the surface mounts.


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## t3sn4f2

:snacks:


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## ErinH

t3sn4f2 said:


> :snacks:


x2.

If I knew what the heck these guys were talking about I'd be excited. But, I have no idea how to remove chips from boards, so I'll just keep my eyes open and maybe try to learn something. 

carry on, gentlemen...


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## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> x2.
> 
> If I knew what the heck these guys were talking about I'd be excited. But, I have no idea how to remove chips from boards, so I'll just keep my eyes open and maybe try to learn something.
> 
> carry on, gentlemen...


I'm just ready for the :argue: lol.


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## bose301s

So, how much does the Bit One actually cost?


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## ArcL100

bose301s said:


> So, how much does the Bit One actually cost?


More then you can afford pal, Audison *revs car*


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## Tonyguy

ArcL100 said:


> More then you can afford pal, Audison *revs car*


:laugh:I know what you're talking about :laugh:


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## Grim0013

thehatedguy said:


> Any standard dual SMD opamp would be a direct fit. Depending on what flavor you are looking for, I would start looking at Burr Brown OPA 2604s, 2107s, 2227s, Analog Devices 8499, and National Semiconductor LM4592s. TangentSoft and Head-Fi have reviews of different opamps.
> 
> Expect to pay $6-15 each for the duals.
> 
> If you wanted to get real trick, some Burr Brown OPA-627s on adapters would go too.
> 
> I have changed out JRC/NJR opamps in my Rane, Benchmark DAC1, and DSP-6 for some of the above chips and have always noticed a significant increase in SQ.
> 
> Capacitors, OS-Cons, Panasonic FCs, and Elma Cerafines would do the job really well without being super expensive like Black Gates. Larger values will offer better performance...as would putting through hole caps in place of the surface mounts.


Those are the same opamp recommendations I keep seeing people mentioning when upgrading PC sound cards when building high-end HTPCs. Same thing on the caps too.


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## thehatedguy

2604 is a good balanced opamp, typical Burr Brown laid back style. 2227 is considered to be a little more dark and tubey sounding. 2107 is as close as you'll get to the 627 in a dual opamp design. Analog Device opamps are generally thought to be more forward sounding and leaner on the bottom end compared to the Burr Browns. I have no experience with the LN4562s, but some consider them to have the best of the Burr Brown and Analog device characteristics- great bass, fast mids, and extended highs. This is the chip DEQX uses in their upgrade to their processor.

Correction, should be AD8599.

The caps are all about better power delivery to the opamps. Lower ripple voltage and lower ESR/ESL means better power delivery to the cheap..increased capacitance has benefits too. Through hole caps have better specs than their SMD counter parts. Nelson Pass uses the Panasonic FCs in his amps. Nice capacitor that doesn't break the bank. I have used Black Gates as coupling caps in my Benchmark DAC1. They are supposed to have film cap qualities as opposed to electrolytic qualities. The Elma Cerafines are supposed to be the next best thing after BG. And since BG is no longer producing capacitors, selection is getting tough and prices are going way up. Good thing is Digikey sells all of the opamps, and Panasonic and Elma capacitors. For SMD OS-Con types you will have to get them at Mouser.

Opamps:

Notes on Audio Op-Amps 

It's all about what you like...what your tastes are. Trust your ears.


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## Grim0013

bikinpunk said:


> x2.
> 
> If I knew what the heck these guys were talking about I'd be excited. But, I have no idea how to remove chips from boards, so I'll just keep my eyes open and maybe try to learn something.
> 
> carry on, gentlemen...


I'll see if I can dig you up some links to some good guides I've been checking out. I have them bookmarked on my work machine I think, so I'll check tommorow.


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## thehatedguy

If you want to have baller status, then some BB 627s on Browndog adapters would probably be it. But being single devices, you would have to buy 2 per channel. So, you are looking at $36-52 per channel for opamps plus the adapters.

Next baller status would be the LM4562s. Much cheaper at only $4.50 each and are dual packages.

I do like the OPA2107s in my DAC1 though. $12.25 each.

Big difference from the 8 cent opamps in there now.


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## slvrtsunami

im still excited about the digital inputs!!


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## thehatedguy

Yeah it is pretty pimp to have a choice between toslink and coax.


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## bose301s

ArcL100 said:


> More then you can afford pal, Audison *revs car*


And how do you know this?


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## quality_sound

It was sarcasm...and a line from he Fast and the Furious...relax.


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## quality_sound

thehatedguy said:


> If you want to have baller status, then some BB 627s on Browndog adapters would probably be it. But being single devices, you would have to buy 2 per channel. So, you are looking at $36-52 per channel for opamps plus the adapters.
> 
> Next baller status would be the LM4562s. Much cheaper at only $4.50 each and are dual packages.
> 
> I do like the OPA2107s in my DAC1 though. $12.25 each.
> 
> Big difference from the 8 cent opamps in there now.


So...say I had a Bit One and wanted to swap out the opamps...having the soldering skills of a retarded Bonobo monkey during mating season...would you be willing to do the work? Compensated for your time of course.


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## bose301s

quality_sound said:


> It was sarcasm...and a line from he Fast and the Furious...relax.


I've never seen that movie, so that's probably why I didn't get it, lol.


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## thehatedguy

I don't have enough time to work on my own stuff these days. Email Matt Roberts, he might could help you out. Any electronics repair place could do the soldering for you too. I'm working about 60 hours a week, going to school, and trying to get my car done in the mean time.


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## ErinH

lol. Who woulda thought there would be a fast & furious reference in this thread? 


*grabs popcorn and puts in F&F 2*


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## dvflyer

bikinpunk said:


> I don’t have a DMM anymore. I had been borrowing one for 2 years and just gave it back last week.


With as much as you change out equipment you might want to stick to borrowing... might save you money in the long run.


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## Babs

ain't dat da truth! bwahahaha


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## ErinH

I hate you all!


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## Babs

Ah it's just jealousy!  

Dadgum Mac head unit, scans and Audison Processor and 15's and kicks and deadening! @#$#[email protected]$!~!!!


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## SSSnake

I tried to hook a brother up with a loaner DMM but no reply- check your PM

Also, I couldn't help but notice this noise seemed to appear after you swapped out the 701. Maybe it's not so bad after all


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## ErinH

Babs said:


> Ah it's just jealousy!
> 
> Dadgum Mac head unit, scans and Audison Processor and 15's and kicks and deadening! @#$#[email protected]$!~!!!


I don’t have 15’s. lol.





SSSnake said:


> I tried to hook a brother up with a loaner DMM but no reply- check your PM
> 
> Also, I couldn't help but notice this noise seemed to appear after you swapped out the 701. Maybe it's not so bad after all


I emailed you back Sunday. 

Yea, … maybe the ai-net was my saving grace? Ahhh!


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## falkenbd

How do I get my hands on one of these?


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## quality_sound

The line starts in the back.


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## SSSnake

The emial just showed up  YGM


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## Babs

bikinpunk said:


> I don’t have 15’s.


... sorry.. I guess they're 12's then. duh!


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## ErinH

Babs said:


> ... sorry.. I guess they're 12's then. duh!



Get it right, man!


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## benny

hey bikini, you still getting noise? You said you got GLI's to try to get rid of the noise; where did you put them?

Ben


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## Blur

I have a brand new never installed, never powered up new in box Bitone for sale :surprised: I live in Australia . I'm willing to chuck it on Ebay and sell internationally if anyones interested in it? Let me know guys. Only selling due to outrageous vet bill incurred by the family pet. Just sold a very high end set of speakers which are heading your way in the next few days.


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## bose301s

I never got a response, how much does a Bit1 go for?


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## ErinH

it's been said a few times in other threads on this forum. suspected msrp is $800 USD.


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## Grim0013

This is about modding an X-fi sound card, by replacing opamps and caps. Should be fairly similar to this.

Hotrodding the X-Fi: A Layman's Guide (No 56k) - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio


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## ErinH

From audison:
No balanced connections.

/


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## RMA

Blur said:


> I have a brand new never installed, never powered up new in box Bitone for sale :surprised: I live in Australia . I'm willing to chuck it on Ebay and sell internationally if anyones interested in it? Let me know guys. Only selling due to outrageous vet bill incurred by the family pet. Just sold a very high end set of speakers which are heading your way in the next few days.


I would steer clear of buying these in to the States from Australia.
They are all serial number traceable so NO WARRANTY in the states on Aussie delivered products.


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## autofile

true. But they have the ADLInk outputs, so if you use the BitOne with the TH amplifiers, you get digital transmission all the way through to the amplifiers ;^)

If you use one of the digital inputs on the BitOne, and then use the ADLink outputs into the TH amps, there is only one A/D-D/A step and that is in the amplifier.
Very quiet, Very flexible, VERY SWEET!



bikinpunk said:


> From audison:
> No balanced connections.
> 
> /


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## RMA

I have a current series VW Jetta which we are about to start an install on.

We will be using:

Audison Connection - cabling, fuses & distribution.

Audison - Speakers TH 6.5 sax, TH 3.0 voce, TH 1.5 violino

Morel - 2 x Ultimo 10 (2 ohm) Subwoofers


Audison - TH Quattro, TH Duo, TH Uno amplifiers


Audison - Bit One

And just to show the quality of the gear we will do this using a factory head unit.


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## [email protected]

Thanks for the pictures and info, I need to call my shop and order one of these this week.


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## ARCuhTEK

RMA said:


> I have a current series VW Jetta which we are about to start an install on.
> 
> We will be using:
> 
> Audison Connection - cabling, fuses & distribution.
> 
> Audison - Speakers TH 6.5 sax, TH 3.0 voce, TH 1.5 violino
> 
> Morel - 2 x Ultimo 10 (2 ohm) Subwoofers
> 
> 
> Audison - TH Quattro, TH Duo, TH Uno amplifiers
> 
> 
> Audison - Bit One
> 
> And just to show the quality of the gear we will do this using a factory head unit.


Damn. Between the systems equipment, wiring and install, the system will cost more than the car! LOL


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## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> ...having the soldering skills of a retarded Bonobo monkey during mating season...


That made me laugh out loud so hard!!! I am glad I was not mid-sip on a soda!

So......digital out put from a head unit...

What head units are you guys running or familiar with that have digital output? I prefer double DIN for the purposes of navigation systems, but would love to hear what you have that will tap the BitOne digital in, or even if you KNOW of Hu's what would work well in this scenario. The first mfr. to come to mind is Alpine products.


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## Babs

I going to guess they're figuring the alpine 2-dins work. Without reading back as I like Bikinpunk have these threads running together now, it was stated the pioneer D3's may be proprietary. I think Bikin' is running a Mac 1-din. One thing to consider though if you're thinking of doing a bit one is that it's kinda setup as an integration piece with the analog in's so pretty much any 2-din that floats your boat should "on cad"  work with the bit one. I'll bet these guys will get a "best choice/applied head unit" list going hopefully though.


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## ARCuhTEK

on cad...lol


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## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> That made me laugh out loud so hard!!! I am glad I was not mid-sip on a soda!


I'm glad someone got the visual I was trying to illustrate.


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## It_Hertz

The reason the Bit one is so hard to come by right now is because they recalled them to do some firmware updates. They will be shipping out again shortly. they retail for 800.00 (this is MAP) 

Also be aware that most shops will not be selling these out the door as it is required by Audison that for shops to even be able to offer the Bit one we must have an o-scope, RTA and Laptop on site. If your local shop does not have these 3 items you may not be able to order one form them, other shops will not let them out the door simply because you need these tools to properly set up the Bit One.


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## quality_sound

It_Hertz said:


> simply because you need these tools to properly set up the Bit One.



no you don't.


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## t3sn4f2

It_Hertz said:


> The reason the Bit one is so hard to come by right now is because they recalled them to do some firmware updates. They will be shipping out again shortly. they retail for 800.00 (this is MAP)
> 
> *Also be aware that most shops will not be selling these out the door as it is required by Audison that for shops to even be able to offer the Bit one we must have an o-scope, RTA and Laptop on site. If your local shop does not have these 3 items you may not be able to order one form them, other shops will not let them out the door simply because you need these tools to properly set up the Bit One.*


They are retarded for doing that.


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## Babs

Taking care of their dealers... They intend for it to be a pro install vs diy, as they also intend for full-boat msrp vs the market driven street price. Nothing unusual.


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## ErinH

It_Hertz said:


> The reason the Bit one is so hard to come by right now is because they recalled them to do some firmware updates.


I wonder why they just don’t let the shops do this? Since it seems the shops have so much knowledge (they have RTAs and o-scopes, remember), does it not make sense to assume they can easily do a firmware update?

It literally took me 15 minutes from the time I started the process (remove old software, add new software, go outside to car and add firmware, go through setup again, listen to music) to the time I was finished. The instructions are laid out pretty simply and if you follow them, you shouldn’t have an issue.

I loaded up the new firmware via the software, went inside to get a drink and pet my dogs, came back out and it was done. And that was the hardest part (according to the manual).

I just see some irony in this. 

*still loves his bit one*

*hopes this statement doesn’t bite him in the butt when new firmware comes out in a few months*


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## denali804

It is very simple to do the software/firmware/drc update. Took about 20 minutes. No need for a trip back to dealer. Also this unit seems alot cleaner then the rf 360.2 that it replaced.


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## tspence73

I have a question. The Bit One from what I can see is a lot like the DQS and other type EQs already available with time alignment that is built into many HU's already. There seems to be no automated RTA analysis/adjustment, ie, like the Alpine units have. So, I'm not seeing the huge advantages this unit is supposed to be giving. It would be MUCH better if it had built-in RTA, built-in auto tuning and a mic. Maybe it has these things and I'm just not seeing it in the manual available online?


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## Megalomaniac

what?


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## tspence73

Megalomaniac said:


> what?


It's no wonder you can't hear me when you've been blasting a horn tweeter from your A-pillar.


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## quality_sound

What makes you think OEM systems have T/A built in?


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## tspence73

quality_sound said:


> What makes you think OEM systems have T/A built in?


OEM's no, but I could have sworn some Alpine decks are available with time alignment.


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## t3sn4f2

tspence73 said:


> I have a question. The Bit One from what I can see is a lot like the DQS and other type EQs already available with time alignment that is built into many HU's already. There seems to be no automated RTA analysis/adjustment, ie, like the Alpine units have. So, I'm not seeing the huge advantages this unit is supposed to be giving. It would be MUCH better if it had built-in RTA, built-in auto tuning and a mic. Maybe it has these things and I'm just not seeing it in the manual available online?


Let's keep it simple, show me a 4 way processor with all the useful features this has, then we can talk about it maybe not being worth it.


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## quality_sound

tspence73 said:


> OEM's no, but I could have sworn some Alpine decks are available with time alignment.


Not without the 701.



t3sn4f2 said:


> Let's keep it simple, show me a 4 way processor with all the useful features this has, then we can talk about it maybe not being worth it.


Exactly. The 701 and the Bit One are it, unfortunately. One with noise issues and one with, apparently, massive hardware and firmware issues.  I need a DSP8 with a GEQ.


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## RMA

Gee so much BS information.

Bit One was not held back for reasons of firm-ware, Australia has had stock for a couple of months and when there is an up grade the dealers can make the upgrade through supplied software. Our second shipment of units left by sea freight about 6 weeks ago and arrives next week.

Delay reasons were mainly production could not keep pace.

Dealers here who have used Bit One and Alpine swear that Bit One is cleaner and better.

It is certainly a product that should NOT be over the counter sales, a dealer is best equipped to sell and install these.

As far as only selling to dealers with the long list of equipment you stated, well that may be a USA thing but it ain't here and I have yet to hear from Larry Penn or Larry Fredericks that is is so in the USA.


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## ARCuhTEK

Makes me wish the JBL MS8 would finally get released (maybe it never will?) for those of us who do not want to RTA and scope a system to death.... Quality sound for the person who appreciates it, but does not necessarily need it to competitions and being critiqued to death by others...

Oh well.

I still like the Bit One....so for now...Bit One it is...


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## quality_sound

RMA said:


> Gee so much BS information.
> 
> Bit One was not held back for reasons of firm-ware, Australia has had stock for a couple of months and when there is an up grade the dealers can make the upgrade through supplied software. Our second shipment of units left by sea freight about 6 weeks ago and arrives next week.
> 
> Delay reasons were mainly production could not keep pace.


Contrary to the information coming out of CES...



> Dealers here who have used Bit One and Alpine swear that Bit One is cleaner and better.


No one's debating this...just that the product has issues.



> It is certainly a product that should NOT be over the counter sales, a dealer is best equipped to sell and install these.


Oh for ****'s sake. Most of the dealer monkeys are so much less equipped to install, let alone tune, one of these than almost every member here it's not even funny. And I guarantee you there aren't going to be many, if any, people that can't tune buying these OTC. Joe Blow off the street isn't looking to come in and do a 4-way, fully active, setup. The only one manufacturers are hurting with stupid ass policies like this is themselves.



> As far as only selling to dealers with the long list of equipment you stated, well that may be a USA thing but it ain't here and I have yet to hear from Larry Penn or Larry Fredericks that is is so in the USA.


Well if that's what reps are telling shops they have to be getting the direction from somewhere.


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## denali804

quality_sound said:


> Contrary to the information coming out of CES...
> 
> 
> 
> No one's debating this...just that the product has issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh for ****'s sake. Most of the dealer monkeys are so much less equipped to install, let alone tune, one of these than almost every member here it's not even funny. And I guarantee you there aren't going to be many, if any, people that can't tune buying these OTC. Joe Blow off the street isn't looking to come in and do a 4-way, fully active, setup. The only one manufacturers are hurting with stupid ass policies like this is themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> Well if that's what reps are telling shops they have to be getting the direction from somewhere.


Exactly what issues are people having with the bitone? I've had mine for about a month I guess and no problems at all. I upgraded firmware/software/drc because i wanted to be running the latest software and firmware. Almost anything that you buy electronic these days have the ability to have the firmware flashed. I think thats good and bad for the consumer. I think that its good because if theirs a problem then it can be corrected and you don't have to have downtime. The downside that I see is that sometimes the debugging process starts once the product is released to the masses. Most manufacturers want the products out there selling and sometimes rush and overlook things. I wished that rockford fosgate would have come out with some updates on the 3sixty.2 unit that I had to address some of those issues.


----------



## quality_sound

MANY Bit Ones are locking up, shutting down, dumping settings, crashing altogether...it's not pretty.


----------



## kyheng

Looks like Bit1 is just like Microsoft products? Have to update once a while?


----------



## RMA

quality_sound said:


> MANY Bit Ones are locking up, shutting down, dumping settings, crashing altogether...it's not pretty.


Yes we had one dealer have that problem - he believed he could up date the firm ware without reading the instructions.

Bit one has been 99.99% reliable, any problems that they had on the "pre release" test units were fixed prior to the first release.


----------



## tspence73

RMA said:


> Dealers here who have used Bit One and Alpine swear that Bit One is cleaner and better.


Is this backed by a blind test for confirmation of this audible difference? If no, then it's marketing BS.



> It is certainly a product that should NOT be over the counter sales, a dealer is best equipped to sell and install these.


It CAN'T be OTA. It doesn't have built-in RTA and automated adjustment. The Alpine unit can accomplish tuning better because of this. The Alpine unit is more advanced and more convenient. If you like to tune things by hand, the Bit One is no different than using an Alpine deck from 2 generations ago (and yes they had time alignment) along with an Audio Control EQ. 

I don't see the Audison as anything new. It's trying to boast advanced technology without any of the best reasons to buy a modern processor (ie, auto-tuning, built-in RTA).


----------



## t3sn4f2

tspence73 said:


> Is this backed by a blind test for confirmation of this audible difference? If no, then it's marketing BS.
> 
> 
> 
> It CAN'T be OTA. It doesn't have built-in RTA and automated adjustment. The Alpine unit can accomplish tuning better because of this. The Alpine unit is more advanced and more convenient. If you like to tune things by hand, the Bit One is no different than using an Alpine deck from 2 generations ago (and yes they had time alignment) along with an Audio Control EQ.
> 
> I don't see the Audison as anything new. It's trying to boast advanced technology without any of the best reasons to buy a modern processor (ie, auto-tuning, built-in RTA).


 Sounds to me they are charging you exactly for what you get. Try putting together a package that offers everything the bit one does and you'll end up paying more and having to deal with several devices instead of just one integrated package.


----------



## Babs

ARCuhTEK said:


> Makes me wish the JBL MS8 would finally get released (maybe it never will?) for those of us who do not want to RTA and scope a system to death.... Quality sound for the person who appreciates it, but does not necessarily need it to competitions and being critiqued to death by others...
> 
> Oh well.
> 
> I still like the Bit One....so for now...Bit One it is...



The mythical MS-8.. Yeah it'd be nice if they'd actually finally release the thing.. Don't hold your breath though. 

Makes me think.. (careful.. stand back.. dangerous when this occurs). 

The PXE (that everyone waited on for like freakin' ever) is out and about and available as can be. I personally would have to hear it for myself before I ruled it out.. 

Doe's the PXE-H650 just suck or something? SQ issues? Noise issues? Imprint issues? What gives? It looks functionally like a great integration processor, if you can live without digital inputs and just tapping into oem and ipod aux.


----------



## Babs

Crashing!!!???!!!??? See, that's why I say screw it to all this auto-tuning crap altogether.. Just plain manual from scratch on my own controls.. Dang it. Oh Lord, I'm becoming an audiocontrol fan! Plain ole' Analog FTW!!


----------



## tspence73

t3sn4f2 said:


> Sounds to me they are charging you exactly for what you get. Try putting together a package that offers everything the bit one does and you'll end up paying more and having to deal with several devices instead of just one integrated package.


I'm not saying it's a bad product. I just don't see the need for it. I could buy a used Alpine 9886 for a couple hundred and a used DQS for like $250 and get the same features. The GUI on the Audison is nice fluff, but it's fluff. I'm in the market for a processor at some point in the future and the Bit One needs to offer a step up to get my money. If you like to tune by hand, and have an RTA/mic, then this will be a good unit.


----------



## 14642

quality_sound said:


> What makes you think OEM systems have T/A built in?


Many of the Harman OE systems that include a separate amplifier include matrix surround, time alignment, digital crossover and EQ, limiting, dynamic EQ (with volume control and with vehicle speed). Our software and firmware is propretary, but time alignment, a few bands of EQ and crossover are DSP features included in even basic processor ICs. I'd be willing to guess that EVERY OE system that includes a separate amplifier that has been built within the last 5 years includes time alignment.

Still working on MS-8. Your skepticism is understood. 

You guys ought to cut the Audison folks some slack.


----------



## ErinH

quality_sound said:


> MANY Bit Ones are locking up, shutting down, dumping settings, crashing altogether...it's not pretty.





RMA said:


> Yes we had one dealer have that problem - he believed he could up date the firm ware without reading the instructions.
> 
> Bit one has been 99.99% reliable, any problems that they had on the "pre release" test units were fixed prior to the first release.



Paul,
Just replied to your PM. 


As for the above issues, RMA is correct. From the person who I’ve been speaking with, everyone who’s having these crashing issues are from doing so in the firmware update.

The manual is very clear: the firmware update is critical and if done wrong the software with lockup, crash, and you could possibly brick your bit one. That’s very true. So, there is some caution to be had.

When I got my software/firmware update I was pretty skerred. Lol. Really, I was like ‘man, this better not brick on me’. Once I read through the directions twice, I started the process. It was a cake walk. As long as you have a stable power supply and your computer doesn’t kick off (I recommend removing power save settings for the few minutes it takes to complete the update) you shouldn’t have any issues.

There seems to be a lot of paranoia over this one subject and it’s somewhat warranted; unfortunately by the folks who didn’t read through the manual or just weren’t aware of what they were doing. I don’t mean to offend those who’ve done this and had trouble, but I hate for others to assume that everyone’s having these problems.

- Erin


----------



## ErinH

tspence73 said:


> I'm not saying it's a bad product. I just don't see the need for it. I could buy a used Alpine 9886 for a couple hundred and a used DQS for like $250 and get the same features. The GUI on the Audison is nice fluff, but it's fluff. I'm in the market for a processor at some point in the future and the Bit One needs to offer a step up to get my money. If you like to tune by hand, and have an RTA/mic, then this will be a good unit.


The audison has TONS more processing than ANY headunit with built-in processing.

You can’t do individual L/R eq, t/a, phase, x-over on any of the headunits I’m aware of. It has 31-band G-EQ; not 5, or 7. It has dynamic EQ (‘loudness curve’) for every channel; not just a shared set. VAST x-over capabilities… in short, none of the headunits you’re talking about can come close to what the bit one (or 701) can do. 
I view this piece as a bit one… that sounds much better.
To me, it’s worth the extra money.

If you don’t need it (well, should say don’t want it), that’s fine. But you need to get your facts straight before making these statements, spency. 



Babs said:


> Crashing!!!???!!!??? See, that's why I say screw it to all this auto-tuning crap altogether.. Just plain manual from scratch on my own controls.. Dang it. Oh Lord, I'm becoming an audiocontrol fan! Plain ole' Analog FTW!!


Read above…

Paranoia has stricken!


----------



## Babs

hehehe.. yeah yeah I know.  1st cup of coffee this morning.. I'm only 1/2 a complete loon.  Always take me with a grain of salt ya know. wait! what was that noise! crap! what was that?! 

On any "bugs".. Andy is right.. I say Bravo for Audison getting the bit one to market, regardless of some firmware goodie.. That's what firmware is for anyway.


----------



## less

Babs said:


> Coax and toslink inputs!! yeeehaw... I saw one portable player with optical out, that's about it. That'd be the bomb running direct digital from a player as a "music server" to this thing.


I've been doing this for about 9 months now into my DRZ's optical inputs. I'm using a Sarotech Abigs DVP260s at the moment and running its optical output into the optical in on the Clarion hu - and using the Clarions nice d/a converter and processing. Although the processing in the Clarion isn't what this is likely to be, its a great combination and produces some wonderful sound with the benefits of an Ipod with a 250gb hard drive =)

The only trick is to have the cd changer running and substitute the media players optical signal for the cd changers... the head unit doesn't know the difference. Works like a charm, sounds sweet and has play list capabilities. The newest model offers the ability to read text files to you as well as full 1080i high def reproduction... plus pass through DTS etc. if your processor will sense and decode it. It also plays mp4 and various h.264 video formats so it can serve as your "one size fits all" media solution and all for about $300 with up to a 500gb hd!

Anxious to see how this bugger works out once they get the bugs out. Glad someone else is dealing with all the initial issues =) *Love you man!*

Less


----------



## Babs

Yeah I was thinking about your Sarotech solution when I wrote that. That seems to be about the only toslink capable portable out there isn't it?


----------



## tspence73

bikinpunk said:


> The audison has TONS more processing than ANY headunit with built-in processing.
> 
> You can’t do individual L/R eq, t/a, phase, x-over on any of the headunits I’m aware of. It has 31-band G-EQ; not 5, or 7. It has dynamic EQ (‘loudness curve’) for every channel; not just a shared set. VAST x-over capabilities… in short, none of the headunits you’re talking about can come close to what the bit one (or 701) can do.
> I view this piece as a bit one… that sounds much better.
> To me, it’s worth the extra money.
> 
> If you don’t need it (well, should say don’t want it), that’s fine. But you need to get your facts straight before making these statements, spency.


I got my facts straight. For me, no built-in RTA, no mic, no auto-tune, no sale. This unit offers phase adjustment that must be handled by manual adjustment and only advanced users will even know what to do with that or use it properly. An auto-tuning unit will do that for you and do it better than you can.

Right now the only unit I would consider would be the Alpine 9887/imprint headunit. Cheaper, more advanced, automated and no extra gear to hide. The ms-8 I could clear a space for because it is revolutionary and has all the needed gear.


----------



## ErinH

tspence73 said:


> I got my facts straight. For me, no built-in RTA, no mic, no auto-tune, no sale. This unit offers phase adjustment that must be handled by manual adjustment and only advanced users will even know what to do with that or use it properly. An auto-tuning unit will do that for you and do it better than you can.


…note how you want auto-tune to do things you say it can do “better than you”, but yet you still want your own after EQ? That just screams irony, spency. 

I understand what you’re saying now… but I contend that you won’t be getting the same amount of tuning as you can with the bit one. If the trade off of auto-tune is that important to you, then that’s fine. I personally don’t have a huge importance for it. Everyone is different.


----------



## kyheng

Well, not all will agree to certain things(auto or manual tuning).
But hey, just imagine that you have a Sharc DSP on an $800 product which usually can found on high end gears like Pioneer ODR(RS-A9, RSD7R2) that costing >$5000. With such advance DSP on hand, I will play with manual mode. Why have to let auto do the tuning and missed out all the fun parts?


----------



## denali804

quality_sound said:


> MANY Bit Ones are locking up, shutting down, dumping settings, crashing altogether...it's not pretty.




Where are these MANY Bit One problem threads located. I've been trying to find out as much information about the unit as possible being I have one and it's just not out there. The instructions on how to update are very clear ao if you brick the unit while updating because you didn't follow instructions how is that the units fault. Its amazing the bad information that is circulating out there by people that don't even own the unit.


----------



## 14642

kyheng said:


> Well, not all will agree to certain things(auto or manual tuning).
> But hey, just imagine that you have a Sharc DSP on an $800 product which usually can found on high end gears like Pioneer ODR(RS-A9, RSD7R2) that costing >$5000. With such advance DSP on hand, I will play with manual mode. Why have to let auto do the tuning and missed out all the fun parts?


The SHARC DSP is a good one, but it's inclusion doesn't have much to do with the price of the product that includes it nor its quality. It's about 12 dollars in reasonable quantities.


----------



## monkeyboy

bikinpunk said:


> …note how you want auto-tune to do things you say it can do “better than you”, but yet you still want your own after EQ? That just screams irony, spency.
> 
> I understand what you’re saying now… but I contend that you won’t be getting the same amount of tuning as you can with the bit one. If the trade off of auto-tune is that important to you, then that’s fine. I personally don’t have a huge importance for it. Everyone is different.


Aren't you very limited to the after tuning you can do with Imprint?

The main reason I didn't buy Imprint was the autotune. I love the idea, but I loathed the sound that the unit told me was right. I listened to it in two different cars, and I didn't like the unit's settings. I would have rather done it myself, or done as the MS-8 is supposed to do (the unit will tune to the curve you request).


----------



## ErinH

From what I’m told you can’t do any tuning afterward. Tspaz is talking (I assume) about using an audiocontrol unit to do tuning after imprint does it’s thing. Hence, the irony in his statement.


----------



## Jimi77

tspence73 said:


> I got my facts straight. For me, no built-in RTA, no mic, no auto-tune, no sale. This unit offers phase adjustment that must be handled by manual adjustment and only advanced users will even know what to do with that or use it properly. An auto-tuning unit will do that for you and do it better than you can.
> 
> Right now the only unit I would consider would be the Alpine 9887/imprint headunit. Cheaper, more advanced, automated and no extra gear to hide. The ms-8 I could clear a space for because it is revolutionary and has all the needed gear.


Learn to tune a system - it's not that hard. I haven't played with imprint, but other auto-tune systems I've encountered were horrible...


----------



## t3sn4f2

Babs said:


> Yeah I was thinking about your Sarotech solution when I wrote that. That seems to be about the only toslink capable portable out there isn't it?


That I know of.....

http://www.cowonamerica.com/products/cowon/q5w/
It's in the manual.

iLink

Wadia Digital


----------



## kyheng

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> The SHARC DSP is a good one, but it's inclusion doesn't have much to do with the price of the product that includes it nor its quality. It's about 12 dollars in reasonable quantities.


You are right, Andy. When buying in bulk, I guess the DSP might cost only $10-50? I don't know and I don't want to know either. But for end consumers to buy that IC chip, it cost around $70.
The $800 does not shows anything, as production cost and other cost have to take into account.


----------



## 14642

for DSP, it isn't the chip that's important, it's the software that's inside--or the algorithm, in the case of autotune. 

Yuning cars isn't very hard, depending on the tools you have to work with. The better the tools, the more that can be fixed and the more difficult. Iif all you have is a 31-band EQ and a crossover, it's pretty basic.


----------



## Babs

Two major tools hanging on the sides of one's noggin also are pretty darn valuable, if they're trained a bit for what to listen for.


----------



## tspence73

bikinpunk said:


> …note how you want auto-tune to do things you say it can do “better than you”, but yet you still want your own after EQ? That just screams irony, spency.
> 
> I understand what you’re saying now… but I contend that you won’t be getting the same amount of tuning as you can with the bit one. If the trade off of auto-tune is that important to you, then that’s fine. I personally don’t have a huge importance for it. Everyone is different.


Yeah, it's a tradeoff I'm looking for. I believe that the automated tuning can set delay/phase, etc better than I can, but when it comes to frequency, my ears are going to tell me when something sounds 'real'. I don't have an advanced degree in audio engineering so, certain adjustments are probably better left to the computer. I've found though that I can often disagree with a mircrophone and computer's idea of 'correct' sound when it comes to EQ.


----------



## DaleCarter

tspence73 said:


> If you like to tune by hand, and have an RTA/mic, then this will be a good unit.


Is it really tuning if you auto-tune?


Tuning, to me, is customizing the system to the listeners desires. Auto-tunas cannot do that. 

I call them "auto-tunas" because the end result usually stinks like a fish


----------



## tspence73

DaleCarter said:


> Is it really tuning if you auto-tune?
> 
> 
> Tuning, to me, is customizing the system to the listeners desires. Auto-tunas cannot do that.
> 
> I call them "auto-tunas" because the end result usually stinks like a fish


Notice, I think that the auto-tuning can do things like phase and time delay better than I can because those are without a doubt mathematical in nature. Frequencies for some reason don't sound 'right' at so-called 'flat' response settings. Bass is too thin and it sounds closer to a tinny old phonograph than a real life sound. So, IMO, frequency adjustment should be set to flat first, then re-adjusted for individual taste and perception.


----------



## 14642

The suggestion that there aren't any good autotunes available yet doesn't mean that there can never be a good autotune. And the idea that a 31-band EQ is the end-all of EQs for cars is fallacious. Flat response in a car is ugly-sounding. A little extra bass is helpful and a little attenuation at high frequencies sounds nice, but the curve should be flat from about 160Hz to about 2-3kHz.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Andy,

Well I suppose I am relieved to hear that the MS8 is not theoretically in the trash can yet. Can you offer us ANYTHING in the way and means of what is going on with this unit? Let me expand the question. From my few posts above, one might think I have a Bit One on the way. But my supplier had issues with the order and has yet to take my money. So I could back out at any minute. The MS8 offers autotune and I WANT that.....combine that with RTA and I feel like the MS8 is a better match for me than the Bit One. I like them both. But if there was ANY chance this thing (MS8) would be market ready by summer...I might just plug in a cheaper DSP for a few months until I could get my hands on an MS8. Do you think I should let my Bit One order go through? 

I know you might not be a liberty to inform or even mislead us....but any clue would be appreciated.

I am unique in the crowd, in that I am partially deaf (100% left ear, 20% right ear)....so there is no way I can hear properly to be able to precisely tune any system. So I will always have to have others help me tune. However, a system like the MS8 would be perfect for me. I do realize that final tweaking is as individual as underwear. But the autotune is a huge leap forward for my situation. I also know know the rest of you dont have to worry about this dilemma and systems are not designed around others problems.

As a comical side...I have thought about designing a system just for me in my truck where the front stage was to the right side of the vehicle, with a set of components in the passenger front door being left channel and the passenger rear door being the front stage left channel. Now I know this would be just for me (I am alone in the vehicle 90% of the time) and when anyone else heard it they would just not understand (hey man your drivers side speakers are not working...lol) But just think what it would do the the auto tune computer.........

LOL


----------



## quality_sound

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> Many of the Harman OE systems that include a separate amplifier include matrix surround, time alignment, digital crossover and EQ, limiting, dynamic EQ (with volume control and with vehicle speed). Our software and firmware is propretary, but time alignment, a few bands of EQ and crossover are DSP features included in even basic processor ICs. I'd be willing to guess that EVERY OE system that includes a separate amplifier that has been built within the last 5 years includes time alignment.
> 
> Still working on MS-8. Your skepticism is understood.
> 
> You guys ought to cut the Audison folks some slack.


I'm sorry, it should have read "most OEM systems." I'm aware that some do have DSP functions built into them but the vast majority don't. 

I know for a fact that VWs Monsoon and now the Premium systems do not have time alignment but I believe the Dynaudio systems in the Passat do. 

What'd I win? 

I'm glad the MS-8 is still being worked on as it could be a very good unit. I don't know about the other guys but I'm being harsh on Audison simply because it's Audison. I can't ever remember them bringing something to market that's so blatantly flawed. What really goads me is they KNEW it. JBL on the other hand, knows the MS-8 has issues but they didn't rush it out and then have to recall it. A small but very distinct difference. I'd rather something never comes out than a half-assed, rushed version. Make sense?


----------



## quality_sound

denali804 said:


> Where are these MANY Bit One problem threads located. I've been trying to find out as much information about the unit as possible being I have one and it's just not out there. The instructions on how to update are very clear ao if you brick the unit while updating because you didn't follow instructions how is that the units fault. Its amazing the bad information that is circulating out there by people that don't even own the unit.



So if it's not in a thread on an internet forum it's not happening? To answer your question, during the last week, most of them were in Vegas. If Audison will even tell you who had them in their cars, ask the guys that were running them at CES. I already have had this conversation with a few friends of mine that have the units in their cars and were at CES. 

And they didn't brick during a firmware update. Some bricked while playing, others while starting up. You are correct, I don't own one. I had one on order though. Thankfully a concerned friend of mine, who DOES have one BTW, called me and filled me in. I've also been waiting a while for it and now I know why it hadn't shown up yet and probably wouldn't have for quite some time.

I was VERY excited about this unit but simply, it was rushed. Rushed ALWAYS = bad.


----------



## quality_sound

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> The suggestion that there aren't any good autotunes available yet doesn't mean that there can never be a good autotune. And the idea that a 31-band EQ is the end-all of EQs for cars is fallacious. Flat response in a car is ugly-sounding. A little extra bass is helpful and a little attenuation at high frequencies sounds nice, but the curve should be flat from about 160Hz to about 2-3kHz.


That sounds remarkably like the IASCA's "ideal" curve. Slight drop-off under 20Hz, flat to maybe 80-100Hz, drops down a few dB to 160-sh Hz, flat to 15KHz and then another slight droop. 

Man, that was in CA&E in like 92...man I feel old.


----------



## quality_sound

tspence73 said:


> I could buy a used Alpine 9886 for a couple hundred and a used DQS for like $250 and get the same features.


You did NOT just make that comparison... a 9886/DQS isn't even in the same league as a Bit One.


----------



## ErinH

quality_sound said:


> So if it's not in a thread on an internet forum it's not happening? To answer your question, during the last week, most of them were in Vegas. If Audison will even tell you who had them in their cars, ask the guys that were running them at CES. I already have had this conversation with a few friends of mine that have the units in their cars and were at CES.
> 
> And they didn't brick during a firmware update. Some bricked while playing, others while starting up. You are correct, I don't own one. I had one on order though. Thankfully a concerned friend of mine, who DOES have one BTW, called me and filled me in. I've also been waiting a while for it and now I know why it hadn't shown up yet and probably wouldn't have for quite some time.
> 
> I was VERY excited about this unit but simply, it was rushed. Rushed ALWAYS = bad.


Yea, bud, you've already received my apology via PM, but I just wanted to state that you are evidently right out in public. I'm still trying to decide if my bit one is the noise culprit or not. I'm hearing that it very well may be. 

rock, me, hardplace


----------



## denali804

quality_sound said:


> So if it's not in a thread on an internet forum it's not happening? To answer your question, during the last week, most of them were in Vegas. If Audison will even tell you who had them in their cars, ask the guys that were running them at CES. I already have had this conversation with a few friends of mine that have the units in their cars and were at CES.
> 
> And they didn't brick during a firmware update. Some bricked while playing, others while starting up. You are correct, I don't own one. I had one on order though. Thankfully a concerned friend of mine, who DOES have one BTW, called me and filled me in. I've also been waiting a while for it and now I know why it hadn't shown up yet and probably wouldn't have for quite some time.
> 
> I was VERY excited about this unit but simply, it was rushed. Rushed ALWAYS = bad.




Not saying that you were the one spreading all the bad information. I just wanted to hear from some users that have had problems so that I would know what to look for. I don't thank that every problem has to be on the internet or in a forum to believe it. As a matter of fact I usually don't believe things on the net untill i verify them. I just wanted to hear more about the problems because I haven't had any. I actually spoke with audison yesterday and they said that If any end users had any problems they would supply them with an RA# and the units would be replaced or could take back to the selling dealer and item would be replaced. When asked if I needed to send the unit back if I had no issues they said no. I also agree with you that when things are rushed they usually tend to have problems. It seemed like audison had taken their time being that the unit was suppose to be released in aug or sept. I'm sorry if I offended you. What would you do if you were in my shoes??? Keep it since it's working or send back just to make sure all is good.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Hey guys, I just found a good deal on an Audison Bit One $650!!! I had another source from the DIYMA website, but did some research and found someone closer to me. 

So the dead is done, order went through and it should be into the suppliers store within one week!

WOOOHOOOOO


----------



## ErinH

is it authorized? make sure you can use the warranty. just in case. 

*just trying to help you out*


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I understand and thank you. Yes it is authorized. It was the first question I asked. I got burned on Ebay with that not authorized junk....so I am once bitten twice shy...

Thanks again.


----------



## flamefox850

can someone compare this BitOne with DSP6 of their pros and cons ? I mean from the specs, the features, what they offer and etc


----------



## t3sn4f2

flamefox850 said:


> can someone compare this BitOne with DSP6 of their pros and cons ? I mean from the specs, the features, what they offer and etc


What better and more detail comparison then reading both manuals.


----------



## quality_sound

denali804 said:


> What would you do if you were in my shoes??? Keep it since it's working or send back just to make sure all is good.


Personally, I'd send it back. But I have...issues...about stuff like that. Even if it's not causing a problem now, it might later.


----------



## RMA

quality_sound said:


> Personally, I'd send it back. But I have...issues...about stuff like that. Even if it's not causing a problem now, it might later.


Lets expand on your brilliant logic! You're going to die one day so may as well end your life now.

The Bit One is a great product.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> Personally, I'd send it back. But I have...issues...about stuff like that. Even if it's not causing a problem now, it might later.


I swear I am not trying to be an axx. Why would you sent a unit back now, if its working....with the justification that it might have problems later? I know that part of your comment is based on above posts and all these alleged problems that others have been having. I do not mean to re-hash if these problems have been substantiated, but I think to send a unit back because it might have problems later is.....interesting. Why not use that justification on every piece of equipment you (or anyone else) own(s)?

I should just buy a RF 3Sixty.2 and throw it in my glove box, just in case the Bit One goes bad...just to have connectivity of my system. LOL A quick install of a 362 would be better than no music.


----------



## quality_sound

RMA said:


> Lets expand on your brilliant logic! You're going to die one day so may as well end your life now.


Main Entry: straw man 
Function: noun 
Date: 1886 
1 : a weak or imaginary opposition (as an argument or adversary) set up only to be easily confuted 




> The Bit One is a great product.


So great the Audison has asked for ALL Bit Ones to be returned to them. Oh yeah...stellar piece. It's POTENTIALLY a great piece, but right now it's flawed.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> I swear I am not trying to be an axx. Why would you sent a unit back now, if its working....with the justification that it might have problems later? I know that part of your comment is based on above posts and all these alleged problems that others have been having. I do not mean to re-hash if these problems have been substantiated, but I think to send a unit back because it might have problems later is.....interesting. Why not use that justification on every piece of equipment you (or anyone else) own(s)?
> 
> I should just buy a RF 3Sixty.2 and throw it in my glove box, just in case the Bit One goes bad...just to have connectivity of my system. LOL A quick install of a 362 would be better than no music.


Simply, Audison knows the "fixed" firmware is still flawed. All the CES Bit Ones were updated and still don't work correctly.


----------



## denali804

Audison said that it's totally up to me if I want to send it back or not. Said that I can either do it through dealer or they would give me a direct RA# to send it back and give me a new unit. They said that if im not having issues then their is no reason to send it in now the unit has a three year warranty and if I ever had a problem during that time period it would be taken care of no questions. It doesn't seem like a mandatory recall.


----------



## quality_sound

They can't make it mandatory, you own it. For peace of mind, I'd send it in.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

The one I just ordered has to be shipped from Audison. If its flawed, and every unit at CES is not working properly...AND Audison knows its flawed, why would they not put a hold on all new orders? Why send out a new unit, knowing it is flawed and will likely have to be returned for repair.

Makes no sense at all, business-wise or common.


----------



## quality_sound

Did they tell you WHEN it's going out?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> Did they tell you WHEN it's going out?


I only know that my supplier does not have it in stock, said he would have to order it and I would be able to take delivery of it in 5-7 days from today. And before you tell me that he fed me a line of unchecked crap....he was on the phone with them as I was speaking to him.


----------



## It_Hertz

Bit One are in stock and shipping.

I will say that you may have a tough time getting the updates as they are made available from Elettromedia as they will give no support to product bought online.

Something to think about.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> I only know that my supplier does not have it in stock, said he would have to order it and I would be able to take delivery of it in 5-7 days from today. And before you tell me that he fed me a line of unchecked crap....he was on the phone with them as I was speaking to him.



Bitter much? All I was going to say was don't it expect it really quickly is all. I know a lot of distributors don't have them in stock and last I heard they didn't have any firm re-release dates. 

If you don't think my cautions are of any worth, then by all means do whatever you want. I'm glad someone (actually a couple of people) saved me the ass pain of ordering something I would have had to send back and then wait, for an undetermined amount of time, for a replacement. 

When the Bit One starts shipping again and is 100% flaw-free I'll reconsider it for my car. Until then, I'll look elsewhere. 

I'm done with this subject.


----------



## RMA

quality_sound said:


> So great the Audison has asked for ALL Bit Ones to be returned to them. Oh yeah...stellar piece. It's POTENTIALLY a great piece, but right now it's flawed.


I am the Austaralian distributor for Audison and AT NO POINT HAS ELETTROMEDIA ITALY REQUESTED ANY BIT ONE UNITS BE RETURNED, 

Australia was one of the first countries to receive stocks.

We have had no problems except for a person who did not read the upgrade 
installation instruction notes.

Didn't your parents ever tell you to not take drugs? 
Your delusional.


----------



## ErinH

I'm hearing the same; that there is a recall. I'm not the only one hearing this... and my source for this info is the same source who has been giving me f/w upgrades and giving me info on things as he hears it. After nothing but noise from hell with this since day one, I'm sending mine back in Monday.

I've been having noise issues since I got this unit. I'm not talking hiss noise... I'm talking all-out, mother of them all, alt whine. I spent a full week trying to troubleshoot, then a few hours today at someone else's house 2 hours away troubleshooting. 
We ran dedicated power/ground for the bit one straight to the battery and the noise was still there. We tried numerous things with my current configuration (GLI's on every input/output) and nothing seemed to work. We tried a plethora of methods and nothing worked. 
We dropped an h701 in its place and the noise is completely gone (except for the good ol' rca hiss the h701 is good for). The bit one is out of the car and is being boxed up as I type this. Hopefully the replacement will be noise free.


----------



## kyheng

That's bad.... Maybe is shorted RCA outputs?


----------



## ErinH

considering it seems to be a very common issue (I've tracked down a guy here in the states who has the same issue... and it's not the one who's been helping me out with this stuff), I'm not sure it's that. Never know, though.


----------



## quality_sound

RMA said:


> I am the Austaralian distributor for Audison and AT NO POINT HAS ELETTROMEDIA ITALY REQUESTED ANY BIT ONE UNITS BE RETURNED,
> 
> Australia was one of the first countries to receive stocks.
> 
> We have had no problems except for a person who did not read the upgrade
> installation instruction notes.
> 
> Didn't your parents ever tell you to not take drugs?
> Your delusional.



Elettromedia ITALY hasn't issued a recall...Elettromedia US did. I guess our distributors care more about their customers than you and Elettromedia Italy do about yours. 

Maybe _you_ need to lay off the drugs. Tool.


----------



## quality_sound

kyheng said:


> That's bad.... Maybe is shorted RCA outputs?


Troubleshooting 101...if you replace a part and the problem goes away then the replaced part was the problem. In short, it wasn't the RCAs since they stayed in the car and the noise is gone.


----------



## denali804

Well my bitone is on its way back and should arrive at elettromedia on tues and they said that they would send another unit right out. I will let you guys know when the new unit arrives. I guess just call it better safe than sorry. Thanks for all of the insight and help in this thread.


----------



## ErinH

^ would you mind sharing what (if any) info they gave you? pm is fine. 

I hope for a quick turnaround with mine. I have to ship it to the shop I got it from and they have to send it back.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> Bitter much?


Not bitter at all. In fact, you have been the one bashing the product the entire thread. I am not sure why you even visit the thread if you dont want any part of the product being discussed. Hang out all you want, but just seems a waste of time and energy.

I admit that I am confused by the very conflicting information being sorted through this thread.

But I wanted to make clear everything I knew for sure. And since you asked when it was being delivered, I knew you were going to make some sarcastic comment about what I was "told" versus what the reality might be until my unit arrives (which you did). I would say the delivery time given to me, to ship from California all the way across the US in one week, is pretty darn good for units that seem to be in manufacturing/upgrade/recall chaos (according to some here).

If I am wrong, and you are right, I will be curious to see if the unit I have, needs to be immediately upgraded or was it a unit that got its updates before it hit the dock.

Just sayin...


----------



## ErinH

playing Devil's Advocate, Paul has the same source I do. Paul's been saying here was I was told. I have now verified myself with my own bit one. Paul's just trying to warn folks here. As am I. 

It's still a great product; just make sure you buy it authorized in case you have issues.

ps: archutekt, I know you'll reply with something about how you'll be fine or something to that tune, so no, the above sentence isn't directed at you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

While it may appear that I am bucking the information being given...I am not. I am very curious about it. Half the people are saying yea...and half are saying na.

It is all very curious to me.

I am simply adding my experience just as you are. I will be interested to see how mine turns out. I do have concern that I will have to send it back. But I cannot say I was not warned...both here and other audio sources who simply warned me against ANY first generation products.

I love the unit and hope for the best. But rest assured, I still have not let my eyes off the MS8.

The thing that made me order the Bit One was the laptop access. I found others (Audio Control, RF, Zapco DSP6) that more or less did the same thing. The only one that had laptop access was the RF 362. And it was tempting because it was bluetooth access. But in the end, I just decided against it and rolled the dice with the Bit One. Mainly because my gamble was that this SP would last me a long time. If I purchased the 362, I would immediately be looking for another.

So, I dont mind if conflicting information is posted, its all good. I just hope the truth rises soon. I dont think it will be through me however, as i dont expect to get tuned in until perhaps the first of March.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> I just hope the truth rises soon.


The truth? What truth? 
There is a recall in the US. That is the truth. 

Good luck with your unit. Let us know how it goes when you get it in. I think we're going in circles arguing about this recall now, though. It's pointless to argue about it when the truth is out there.

/


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> The truth? What truth?
> There is a recall in the US. That is the truth.
> 
> Good luck with your unit. Let us know how it goes when you get it in. I think we're going in circles arguing about this recall now, though. It's pointless to argue about it when the truth is out there.
> 
> /


I guess so. It is always possible they are sending new (hopefully correct) units out the door at the same time they are asking for existing units to come back in the door.


----------



## Booger

....


----------



## Knobby Digital

ARCuhTEK said:


> Half the people are saying yea...and half are saying na.


= 50% success rate on an expensive processor.

Take the chance if you want to, but this is a new product and people are sharing their experiences both good and bad.


I can't for the life of me understand why some choose to argue about products like they're defending friends or family.


----------



## RMA

Wow all I can say is that Australia got units from the same production run as the USA and we have had no problems with the exception of one wally.

Two Beta units that were released for field testing purposes had turn on pop, alt. noise and a few other issues, when we installed the firmware up grade and software up grade all the noise was gone.

I have no idea why anyone would make a recall, the units electronics works fine and a firmware / software upgrade is easily done in the field.


----------



## ErinH

^ I'm not trying to be argumentative, really, but it just seems odd to me that a firmware upgrade would fix a noise issue; which seems like it would be tied to hardware.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

icehole said:


> = 50% success rate on an expensive processor


LOL..maybe I should not have been so exaggerative on my projected numbers? A little early to declare any winner......


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> ^ I'm not trying to be argumentative, really, but it just seems odd to me that a firmware upgrade would fix a noise issue; which seems like it would be tied to hardware.


When I read that, I was thinking the same thing...a noise issue is not something that I (a non expert) would think is repairable with firmware updates. Seems like an internal component is the issue and needs to be replaced.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> Not bitter at all. In fact, you have been the one bashing the product the entire thread. I am not sure why you even visit the thread if you dont want any part of the product being discussed. Hang out all you want, but just seems a waste of time and energy.
> 
> I admit that I am confused by the very conflicting information being sorted through this thread.
> 
> But I wanted to make clear everything I knew for sure. And since you asked when it was being delivered, I knew you were going to make some sarcastic comment about what I was "told" versus what the reality might be until my unit arrives (which you did). I would say the delivery time given to me, to ship from California all the way across the US in one week, is pretty darn good for units that seem to be in manufacturing/upgrade/recall chaos (according to some here).
> 
> If I am wrong, and you are right, I will be curious to see if the unit I have, needs to be immediately upgraded or was it a unit that got its updates before it hit the dock.
> 
> Just sayin...


What? I was going to buy one. I had one on order. I really like what the Bit One is supposed to be and what it could be. If it worked correctly I'd have one now. 

My comment about when you'd get yours wasn't sarcastic. It was just to let you know there has been no re-ship date from Elettromedia USA as of yet. If it happens quickly then all the better. I was also told I'd have mine shortly after it was ordered. I never got it. Then I canceled the order until they get the issues sorted out.

If you'd actually READ the thread you'd have seen where I said multiple times I want one, had one on order, and was disappointed thet the unit has the problems it does. When they get everything worked out, a Bit One will be in my car. Is that clear enough for you?

The conflict of information is because RMA is in Oz. The recall is was initiated by Elettromedia USA, not Elettromedia Italy. So unless RMA (who apparently is Elettromedia Australia) starts a recall for those units in his country then there won't be a recall in Australia. This is simply the US branch looking out for it's customers.

Now I see why people leave other people keeled over on the street. It's just not worth trying to help sometimes. Christ almighty...


----------



## Blur

R.M.Audio (RMA) is the Australian distributor for Electromedia products including Audison. I have purchased one of the Australian units and have yet to install it. I had contemplated selling it as so many of you were intereseted, but have decided to keep it for various reasons. 
I hope the unit doesn't suffer from the issues you guys are talking about. It is concerning that the same batch that was sent to Australia and America have only been recalled by the US distributor of Electromedia!!! I am sure Australian buyers of the Bitone will be well looked after by R.M.Audio if we experience the same issues  

I have also read that an auto tune feature will be available to the Bitone unit, purchased extra of course. Here is the link:

http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/2008/04/update-audison.html


----------



## Blur

RMA said:


> Wow all I can say is that Australia got units from the same production run as the USA and we have had no problems with the exception of one wally.
> 
> Two Beta units that were released for field testing purposes had turn on pop, alt. noise and a few other issues, when we installed the firmware up grade and software up grade all the noise was gone.
> 
> I have no idea why anyone would make a recall, the units electronics works fine and a firmware / software upgrade is easily done in the field.


I am Interested to know why the same units were recalled in the U.S but not in Australia?? Is anyone from electromedia US able to elaborate on the reason for the recall??


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I would like to own the AutoEQ as well. But from what I have read, it does not appear to even be on the horizon. Any (more acccurate) updates on this piece would be nice.


----------



## linuxpro

Howdy, I'm fairly new to the forum, and have been following this thread as I'm looking for a DSP to run active 3-way front stage from my stock HU in my Mercedes SLK. I'm looking for a good OEM integration DSP to run to my McIntosh 6ch amp.

Have been looking at both the 3SIXTY.2 and the BitOne. Was leaning toward the BitOne as it looked like something I could keep when I replace my stock HU (when the Kenwood DNX9140 comes out). This thread has just put those plans on hold, and I will probably go with the RF 3SIXTY.2 for now, or at least until something better comes out. 

What a bummer. I'm amazed how few options there are on the market for something like this. Seems every option (the H701, 3SIXTY.2, and the BitOne) all have their down-sides and none of them other than the BitOne seem to be "perfect." If I do get a BitOne, I will be swapping the opamps and caps and will post a review. However, I'm going to wait until they get their grounding/transformer issues worked out (the most likely cause of the noise issues, and probably also responsible for some of the lockups that are being reported). Generally speaking, the issues mentioned here would be related to poor power stage design, crappy transformer, improper grounding, shorts, etc. That could be confirmed if anyone was willing to photograph their PCB (both sides) and all components before returning to Audison and then doing the same thing when they get it back.


----------



## linuxpro

somehow I double-posted. argh. i'm going to blame the quick reply.


----------



## ErinH

I would've taken pics of both sides, but the other side was just the bare side of the board. Didn't really think about doing both sides. :/

I'll take pics when I get mine back. Might be a few weeks, though.

Wanna upgrade my bit one? 

Good to have you here.


----------



## chad

linuxpro said:


> somehow I double-posted. argh. i'm going to blame the quick reply.


welcome to the club.

I dig your user-name


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> If I do get a BitOne, I will be swapping the opamps and caps and will post a review.


Care to share what upgrades you have in mind or do you know as of yet?

The other DSP's/EQ's/Xo I considered are:

AudioControls DQXS
RF 362
Zapco DSP6
and the non-existent MS8


----------



## linuxpro

I have a policy about doing electronics work for other people: I rarely do it, if ever. Why not, you ask? Well when I was about 15 years old, I decided to build my own Adcom amp from a schematic that was given to me by an old guy in my electronics club (who was also providing the PCBs). I totally fecked up on the power stage (don't wrap your own coils... just trust me on this one...) and didn't test the amp before plugging in my dad's Klipsch Belles for a test-run. Plugged it in, turned it on, and POW!! Imagine the sound of dozens of caps exploding at once, and all the lovely smoke. My mom thought it had damaged the speakers and told my dad when he got home, who beat me within an inch of my life for not testing my work before plugging into the mains. Now, whenever I work on a project, I refuse to give it to anyone for fear that it might catch on fire. :laugh:

Thanks for all the welcomes. I'm looking forward to being part of this community, and bringing my extreme passion for hi-fi here to the 12-volt community. Am hoping to contribute soon, although for now I'm still learning (quite a bit). 


Back to the thread... are all BitOnes experiencing these issues? I've been running through the threads on the BitOne and can't seem to find any consensus. I see a few complaints of noise, some second-hand complaints about random freezes and lock-ups, are the issues common? I mean, the BitOne looks like the only viable processing solution to take speaker-level line-out from my head unit, break it into 3 channels, do the T/A and other processing and crossover, and run active to my speakers. But I don't wanna spend $800 and a weekend installing it, only to have to rip it back out and send it back in. The lack of active processing/x-over for a 3-way front stage is making me seriously tempted to just use a factory passive x-over with some components (ugh, and not fun).

Are there any other options? Seems even the RF 3SIXTY.2 has issues with bluetooth that make it totally non-functional. 

What would Jesus do?


----------



## quality_sound

Jesus would wait for the Bit One...or use Zapco DC Reference amps. A little birdie tells me they might be shipping soon.


----------



## linuxpro

ARCuhTEK said:


> Care to share what upgrades you have in mind or do you know as of yet?
> 
> The other DSP's/EQ's/Xo I considered are:
> 
> AudioControls DQXS
> RF 362
> Zapco DSP6
> and the non-existent MS8


I'd upgrade the opamps to Burr-Browns mentioned by kyhang. I've never been a big fan of the AD opamps (too harsh, too sterile). And with the right caps, I don't think the BBs sound all that "dark" like people are always saying. 

I built a gaincard clone using the Burr-Browns with a tube preamp/input stage, which should sound overly warm, but it is AMAZINGLY detailed and clean on my ribbon/revelator line-arrays. I've used both the Solen and Mundorf caps on that amp, both sounded clean as hell. So clean that my opera-singer non-engineer girlfriend said she got goosebumps listening to a recording of one of her baroque opera performances on it. Baroque operas are often performed with singers standing on multiple levels of the stage, with "angel" singers up in the balconies or on raised columns, generally behind the main stage area. With my amp, the imaging and separation was so pronounced that you could clearly make out which singers were standing where, specifically who was singing each part, and my girlfriend even remarked that one of the girls in her group had sang a few notes off-key and identified who the singer was by where she was standing on stage. Summary: I don't think Burr-Brows are overly warm at all. If anything, they just add an extremely light touch of warmness to the bottom-end that makes the listening more pleasant, but nothing like you would hear with a valve amp running older tubes. I would definitely not describe them as "dark." Perhaps "caramel", but not "dark."

Anyway... I'm checking out the Zapco DSP6 and the DQXS right now. 

Am also anxiously awaiting further news on the BitOne as it looked perfect for my application.


----------



## quality_sound

If you do Zapco DC Reference amps you don't need any processing at all.


----------



## quality_sound

Stupid double posts...


----------



## autofile

linuxpro said:


> Back to the thread... are all BitOnes experiencing these issues?


Mine works beautifully.


----------



## chad

linuxpro said:


> I have a policy about doing electronics work for other people: I rarely do it, if ever. Why not, you ask? Well when I was about 15 years old, I decided to build my own Adcom amp from a schematic that was given to me by an old guy in my electronics club (who was also providing the PCBs). I totally fecked up on the power stage (don't wrap your own coils... just trust me on this one...) and didn't test the amp before plugging in my dad's Klipsch Belles for a test-run. Plugged it in, turned it on, and POW!! Imagine the sound of dozens of caps exploding at once, and all the lovely smoke. My mom thought it had damaged the speakers and told my dad when he got home, who beat me within an inch of my life for not testing my work before plugging into the mains. Now, whenever I work on a project, I refuse to give it to anyone for fear that it might catch on fire. :laugh:


I LOVE THIS GUY!

There is still a cap casing embedded in the ceiling of my parents garage from a home brew when I was about 13 

They WILL NOT let me remove it for them, nor let me live it down


----------



## It_Hertz

In actuality there are very few Bit ones that have had any problems. We have installed Three so far and had absolutely zero issues. Elettromedia (the importers here in the US)
called today, and are replacing ALL Current Bit Ones with newer models just to ensure there are no problems. (Even with ours that have worked flawlessly). Bit Ones are shipping and There is no reason to avoid ordering one up from your Local retailer. 

Linux... I Think you would be very happy with a Bit One for your setup. If you would like any more info please feel free to Pm or email me and I will help you any way I can.

Bryan


----------



## quality_sound

It_Hertz said:


> In actuality there are very few Bit ones that have had any problems.


If you want I can PM you the numbers on how many of them that were at CES were bad.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> If you do Zapco DC Reference amps you don't need any processing at all.


You have mentioned these amps twice. While I realize we coudl all do a search, do you mind to elaborate on why processing is not necessary with these amps versus any other amp that might have controls (albeit limited)?

Thanks,


----------



## ARCuhTEK

It_Hertz said:


> There is no reason to avoid ordering one up from your Local retailer.
> Bryan


Mine was supposed to hit town today or tomorrow. I will be able to get my hands on it Friday or Monday....so I would hope I got one of the new ones.


----------



## ErinH

It_Hertz said:


> Elettromedia (the importers here in the US)
> called today, and are replacing ALL Current Bit Ones with newer models just to ensure there are no problems. (Even with ours that have worked flawlessly).


I swear, I hear an echo. 

I'm happy for you folks that don't have problems. But, the simple fact that audison has recalled them should be enough to not need more replies on the matter. 

(anyone get the hint?)


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> You have mentioned these amps twice. While I realize we coudl all do a search, do you mind to elaborate on why processing is not necessary with these amps versus any other amp that might have controls (albeit limited)?
> 
> Thanks,


Because they essentially have a DSP-6SL built into each one. All the same processing power but it only applies to the amp, so you can't send the signal to another amp. Really cuts down on the clutter.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> Because they essentially have a DSP-6SL built into each one. All the same processing power but it only applies to the amp, so you can't send the signal to another amp. Really cuts down on the clutter.


Is it hands on control for each one, or is there a way to control it with a laptop or other means?


----------



## It_Hertz

quality_sound said:


> If you want I can PM you the numbers on how many of them that were at CES were bad.


I am already aware of the ones that had problems at CES including ones in the Audison/Hertz Demo cars and Fred's V Dub.among others I guess.

The point I was trying to make is simply that overall there are very few that have had any problems. Most that have been sold in the US are working with no problems. 

Bikini, yes they recalled them, that is better than leaving them out there denying any problems. This goes to show the support for the products and their dealers.

ARCuhTEK, If you have any questions about your Bit One feel free to Contact me. Also there is a little trick to the Time alignment. You do not set it up like other systems. It is not mentioned exactly in the manual anywhere, but I did get the info yesterday about how it is "supposed" to be set up. tho I did set mine "normal" way and it is working great.


----------



## pyropoptrt

It_Hertz can you let us in on the little trick to properly set up the Time Alignment?


----------



## ErinH

It_Hertz said:


> Bikini, yes they recalled them, that is better than leaving them out there denying any problems. This goes to show the support for the products and their dealers.


We are aware. I said 'echo' because this has been discussed already. Paul posted this on the previous page. 



Lee, do you have the latest firmware? With the 1.0.5.x I had trouble getting it to work properly. the `1.0.7 version fixed that for me.


----------



## It_Hertz

Ok, When you set up your Bit One... measure the distance from each speaker to your focus point and write them down.

then as you enter your info into the program. enter the measurement for that speaker in the distance box. the bit one will autoset the T/A, then you can fine tune it from there in the fine tuning section.


----------



## It_Hertz

Bikini,

My Fault, I did not see the previous posting of that.


----------



## denali804

pyropoptrt said:


> It_Hertz can you let us in on the little trick to properly set up the Time Alignment?




You just need to make a few measurements to get it setup right. Not that difficult. My replacement is on its way back. Can't wait to get it back in. To the person considering the 3sixty.2, thats what i replaced with my bitone. As far as im concerned the bitone just has a better all around sound and the setup is just as easy or easier.


----------



## BigRed

10 bands of parametric eq from the zapco's isn't very appealing to me.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> Is it hands on control for each one, or is there a way to control it with a laptop or other means?


Laptop control is standard but there is a 1/4 DIN sized controller like the DCX-730 that is available.


----------



## quality_sound

BigRed said:


> 10 bands of parametric eq from the zapco's isn't very appealing to me.


It wasn't for me either...until I realized it's 10 bands per channel. MUCH more flexible now. Really, even the mid in a 3-way set shouldn't need more than 10 PQ bands. In a 4-way like yours it would be more than enough.


----------



## pyropoptrt

bikinpunk said:


> Lee, do you have the latest firmware? With the 1.0.5.x I had trouble getting it to work properly. the `1.0.7 version fixed that for me.


Nope, I still have that original version. Although I must say that I haven't really played with the software anymore since I posted those screenshots and trying to double check verify things for peeps. Personally, it looks like I'll be waiting until March to order my Bit One when they will (supposedly) release that big firmware update.


----------



## chad

BigRed said:


> 10 bands of parametric eq from the zapco's isn't very appealing to me.





quality_sound said:


> It wasn't for me either...until I realized it's 10 bands per channel. MUCH more flexible now. Really, even the mid in a 3-way set shouldn't need more than 10 PQ bands. In a 4-way like yours it would be more than enough.


I was gonna say, if you can't get it dialed in with 10 bands of parametric you have some serious issues!


----------



## t3sn4f2

chad said:


> I was gonna say, if you can't get it dialed in with 10 bands of parametric you have some serious issues!


For those there is always a DSP6 feeding a DC amp. 20 bands per channel and 48dB slopes.


----------



## quality_sound

Isn't the processing on the DC Refs and the DSP-6 the exact same? Same slopes, number of bands, etc?


----------



## St. Dark

A couple of things no-one has touched on: firmware updates CAN lock up (which just means you have to power down and start over) a Bit One if you try do it on the bench without going through the initial input configuration and feeding it a signal on at least a pair of RCA / high level inputs. It's suggested you do this, THEN update the firmware (this info directly from Larry Frederick).
Another important item is that the ones EM-USA is sending out to dealers, are from the same shipment batch that the ones currently in the field are from.


----------



## t3sn4f2

quality_sound said:


> Isn't the processing on the DC Refs and the DSP-6 the exact same? Same slopes, number of bands, etc?


10 from the DSP6 out to 10 from the DC = 20

24dB slope from the DSP6 cascaded onto 24db slope from the DC's (at the same xover frequency) = 48dB slope.


----------



## quality_sound

t3sn4f2 said:


> 10 from the DSP6 out to 10 from the DC = 20


Gotcha



> 24dB slope from the DSP6 cascaded onto 24db slope from the DC's (at the same xover frequency) = 48dB slope.


The DC manual shows -48dB slopes on the example screen.


----------



## t3sn4f2

quality_sound said:


> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> The DC manual shows -48dB slopes on the example screen.


Oh man, 96dB slopes!! 

Software only goes to 24db though


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pyropoptrt said:


> Personally, it looks like I'll be waiting until March to order my Bit One when they will (supposedly) release that big firmware update.


Do you care to share your source for that information (March big firmware update)?

On another question....for current Bit One owners:

How do you find out what firmware version your Bit One has installed? Is that via the software program included? I still do not have mine in hand, but will want to check the firmware version as soon as I get it.

Thanks,


----------



## quality_sound

t3sn4f2 said:


> Oh man, 96dB slopes!!
> 
> Software only goes to 24db though



And that's fine with me but it makes me wonder why the screen showed 48dB...weird.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

No that anyone cares.....but:

I just spoke with my Audison supplier. My Bit One was supposed to be in his hands today. There is a two week delay from EM. So including shipping to him from EM, it will not be in until 3 weeks from today at best.

I also ask him to confirm he was an authorized dealer. He confirmed and also stated my unit will be fully warrantied.

Just sayin...


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> Do you care to share your source for that information (March big firmware update)?
> 
> On another question....for current Bit One owners:
> 
> How do you find out what firmware version your Bit One has installed? Is that via the software program included? I still do not have mine in hand, but will want to check the firmware version as soon as I get it. Verified today that mine will be back tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks,





When the bitone links up to your computer the screen on computer will show its current firmware. Upper right hand corner. Also you might want to get in contact with elletromedia(sp) and make sure that the company that is selling the unit are authorized dealer so that you can make sure you have warranty through audison.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> When the bitone links up to your computer the screen on computer will show its current firmware. Upper right hand corner. Also you might want to get in contact with elletromedia(sp) and make sure that the company that is selling the unit are authorized dealer so that you can make sure you have warranty through audison.


Good idea. I did a google search for a website AND a phone number. No juice. I am using this as the keywords:

Elletromedia USA
Electromedia USA

Anyone have their website or contact info? Much appreciated.

Never mind....I just found this:

For more information about Elettromedia-USA and their product lines, AUDISON/HERTZ/CONNECTION - just call 877-567-3030 and ask for Ken or Larry


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

Ding Ding Ding.... the Black Sheep is here.... 


Ive been watching this post long enough to realistically believe I should of had several stiff drinks, some coffee and passed thru a long boring movie with some of the comments made on here. At this point its not even a matter of who's right and who's wrong as I see a lot of wrongs on this post from both sides of the argument and yet another reason why this industry is going downhill.

For some its no secret of the underlying issues that are within the foundation of the bitone technology. I have had one in my car for several weeks now and I was one of the ones who had issues with the processor (confirmed issues) at this years CES show in LAS Vegas. I think I need to remind some of you that this is new application for this technology in this market and there will be a learning curve for everybody including the manufacture. EXPECT ISSUES!!! When a manufacture with a new product starts having any issues of any kind or size they have 2 options- 

1)Turn your head and neither deny or admit to the problem and act like it doesnt exist.

2) Deal with the problem head on and fix it!

In this case EM took option 2 and not only are they taking back all 40 units that were shipped here in the US they also as a group (Ken, Matt and Larry P) called each and every one of ther customers they shipped units to and explained the possible concern wether there is a problem or not, and is shipping new units to their "AUTHORIZED" dealers only! They also took the time to apologize for any inconvience this may of caused and also discussed the process for the new software and the inhouse firmware updates they are making. This isnt jsut for units that have been confirmed with issues, its for all of the units sold. THIS IS CUSTOMER SERVICE. Note if you purchased your processor via this forum or another online source... well... you better hope your online salesman can take care of this since EM is holding a very strong and strick "authorized dealer only" policy regarding firmware updates and warranty. For me that was the best part.... NO SIDEWAYS ********! hooray!!

Ive watched from forum to forum worldwide people get into childish pissing matches about if there is and was a problem with the bitone. Open your eyes.... there was!!! BUT NOT WITH ALL UNITS!! First off just becasue one unit has a problem doesnt mean the next will have issues as well. Yes there was and is multiple units out there that have shown these issues but then again there is also multiple that have shown no issues as well. Either way EM is still doing what I consider a admirable effort.Props to the crew at EM for taking care of their customers.

Now back to some stupidity on this forum..... 

To the people who have been bashing the piece due to the issues-

USE YOUR HEAD!!! its a new product... a new design.... and its not a $20 chinese prefab design thats off the shelf and available to the world. If you are that persistant to go into a frenzy to make sure you are the first one on the block to have something that has ZERO field time and has not been proved in quantaties and multiple applications be a runner..... EXPECT TO HAVE ISSUES!!! it's part of the game....In the end they will get worked out and the problems resolved.

To the people who were arguing the other side of the effort-

Just becuase you are in a different country or have used one that did work that you close your mind to the possibility that there could be a problem with units other than your's. Think about it. And for the Austrailian distributor on this forum I wouldd be making some phone calls to EM USA and take a few notes from these guys about "Taking precautions" before it comes back to bite you in the ass..

Now on to other things.........


=========================================================


Here is a review I posted on another forum about my first impressions of the Bitone-


Well I spent a good deal of time yesterday installing and redoing the trim work etc where the bitone now calls home. I have gotten a bunch of emails and calls in the past 24 hours so here is my first impressions of what I think of the piece....


Installation - 


The small package size and presentation of the bitone makes installation very easy. Size in almost identical to that of the the brain of the PHA-H701. wiring interface, depending on the installation and features that you wish to use could create some issues to pre existing installations where wiring has apready been completed at exact lengths and secured. 

For standard aftermarket installations wiring will require access to 3 sides of the units (1 side for output RCA's, another side is home for power, ground and remote, and turn on, and the other side is home for the Coaxial, Toslink and RCA input. One annoyance I found was that the unit has a ton of "Extra" connections in the power plugs and recepticals like the one labeled "MEM" ..... in the instructions it tells you that it is optional, but it is for when you turn the unit off, if hooked up it will auto save each time you turn your system off.... but it doesnt tell you what kind of connection it is or what to hook it up to... no + or _ or anything.... there is several issues like this with the manual....


Software installation - 

The software installatoin is easy however the update process for the new versions of software is just time consuming... rather than having update feature for the software you must use your computers control panel and uninstall the software and reinstall the new sofware to complete this procedure.

after installing the software it searches for the bit one but it will then require to install the BLL USB driver files for the interface... if you have the disk this will be as easy as clicking a button... if you have lost the disk or retrieved the file from the internet you will have to manualy place the file in the depths of your computer.

After it completed the connection it then forces you to complete the automatic configuration utility. during this procedure you will need to install the provided disk into your source unit and then play track one at the highest unclipped volume setting you have while the bit one automatically sets the input levels. (This function requires you to have Low Level or Hi LEvel inputs hooked up to the processor)... then it has you select your speaker configuration, channel selections, passive or no passive configurations etc... after about a 10 minute setup you then finally get to the main screen.

From there it is recommended that you update the firmware..... for this you then must disconnect all connections to the bit one main unit with the exception of the usb, power ground and ignition. Yesterday Larry had me update to version 1071 new release as of christmas ...... the first attempt at loading the firmware was very frusterating as there is a portion of the process where the task bar locks up (typical and expected as per the instructions) but in this case it took over 45 minutes... 

I ended up calling Larry and we took a chance and disconnected and restarted the process... (Please note it is not recommended as during the lock and freeze time this is when the computer is writing flash bios operations to the Bitones main chip ... if this procedure is interrupted or not completed it can potentially leave the bitone rendered useless and you will have to send it back to Audison).

After over 2 1/2 hours with Larry and one of their engineer's we finally got thru the problems with the firmware and now working correctly the process takes all of about 6 minutes to make the update. (NOTE THE BITONE IS EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO VOLTAGE FLUXUATIONS EVEN AS LITTLE AS .01 VOLTS AND CAN CAUSE LOCK UP ISSUES DURING THE UPDATE) Final note is once all of the bugs are worked out and everything goes smoothly it is a easy and simple procedure.

after the firmware is updated the system reconnects and then asks you to complete the configuration usility once again (Yes this was frusterating and makes no sense to me why I have to redo it over and over)


User Interface and software utility - 

After the whole ordeal and a good part of the afternoon wasted on setup I finally had sound passing thru the bitone and had a chance to start using the software....

First off.... From a general standpoint... whomever designed this user interface did their homework.... Without reading a single instruction I was able to cruise thru the features and completley understand almost every feature and option of the software... the organization and feature utilities are very clearly layed out and identified...... The first thing I did was set all of my crossovers... First thing was to establish linked channels between all of the common drivers which is complete witha simple click and the bitone completes the rest as you already identified the channel assignements during the configuration. Then giving you the options for almost any kind of crossover you could ever want. 

One note on this althought the crossover selection is almost idiot proof I found that my only complaint with the process so far was when I went to unlink the channels I got an warning message telling me that if I unlink the Channels it will rest all of my other selections to default (Equalizer, phase etc) ... basically as of now until they correct the software you can tune this thing by eitehr individual channels or as linked pairs of channels.... but you cannot change from one to another during the process.... BIG DOWNFALL IMO.....Also when in Bandapass mode it does not give you the option to select crossover slopes for the HP section... only lowpass. So it forces you to have mathing slopes on both ends...

The individual channel Equalizer operation is a beautiful thing.... I would recommend using a mouse on your computer rather than the track pad.... but you can simply click on the selected frequency and then using the scrolling wheel move the slider up and down.... and there is no lag time for the change to take effect.. it is real time!!! For the love of God their engineers obviously never tuned a car in a car becuase who has a mouse in a car.. one flaw I found was that on the EQ you could click on the frequency you desire but you eitehr have to hold the selection button on the touch pad and then draw it up or down becuase their engineers didnt link up the arrow keys to the software.... so much for ltuning with your ears..

In the equalizer panel you can link selected frequencies together allowing for overall leveling of harmonics etc... however one of my dissapointements to this piece was to find that the current software does not allow for a global EQ linking for that final critical tuning... Also for you parametric lovers out there... sorry.... the Bitone is strictly 31 band....

There is a ton of things I could go into as this unit has more features in it that I have time to type about them... (My son is going to be waking up from his nap here in a bit..) ...

*****Addition since original post***** ---- Time alignment.... There is notihng basic aobut this. Unlike the 701 which is set the times by ear and your good to go. Their software requires you to set and input the length from the listening position to each speaker before you can effectively start using the actual time selection portion....


NOW on to how it sounds..... 

Based on my configurartion and application.... 

This thing sounds AWESOME!!! Understanding the technology and design of this piece led me going into this with highe expectations..... I had several hours of time to demo different music selections..... THANKS STEVE HEAD!!! 

OK for you alpine lovers this unit replace my modified 701.... compared to a stock 701 it does sound 10000% better!!.... and for you 701 lovers.... NO ZIPPER NOISE!!!! Both 701 and Bitone had their own special properties and features tonally.... but the Bitone did sound better overal..!!!!

My only concern on the current version is in the digital domain portion of the bitone while using a toslink or coaxial input. The **************************************************************************************************************************************edited and removed from a public forum out of courtesey to EM as this post was originally posted on a industry only forum************************************************************************************* of the firmware for the processor....


Final Thoughts.......

The bitone is a exceptional piece of electronic design. The use of newly revisited technology that was once outcasted because of the high cost is a breath of fresh air. No longer is the issue of high quality vs. size an issue as the bitone offers a more than acceptable footprint for most any installtion. Once you go thru the three ring circus of updating the firmware and making sure you in fact have the current version of both the software and firmware the Bitone is a very simple and easy to use all in one processor that is priced a very reasonable and affordable price point.

Compared to the other units that are diminishing in avaibility the Bitone is definately a piece to be sought for ... however based on the current details in the current software and firmware and some of the fine tuning limitations between channels and about a half dozen other little tuning issues, I would personally wait another month to purchase one pending Audison working the bugs out of the software and the interface. IMO it seems like it was rushed out the door a little to ealry and needs a bit more testing time to make it right...

At a normal consumer level the Bitone will be a solid performer and till some competition comes out it will most certainly fly off the shelves as a perfect fit for about 95% of the industry's installed audio systems.... As far as for the critical listener, competitor, or hard core music tweeker... it has a bit more R+D in the future in regards to the software and firmware to make this something that most of us competitors and music enthusiest would be willing to go in search of. It defiantely has the dynamic, sonic and tonal qualities. Once that happens I Personally think that it has the ability to replace many of the favorite processors many of us has spent thousands of dollars on for the past many years...

In the end... I would wait..... just a few more months before running out and making that purchase... based on conversations with techs at Audison sounds like the software and firmware updates they are working on currently and scheduling for release sometime in march should solve almost all of the issues.... and bring in the last of the features needed to make this an overal great piece....

For now... ill deal with the obsticales an continue to offer my personal opinion on this piece as the new updates are released.... I think it is definately on the right path to making a statement in this industry..

For the high to mid level consumer... definately a must buy...

For the competitor or music enthusitest.. ... needs a few software and user interface updates... then this thing will be a must buy till the next newest and greatest thing comes out...



======================================================


One last thing.... some of you earlier in the post were bitching about the use of the JRC output devices.... well what do you expect for a $800 processor.... If its 100% audiophile you are looking for then wait till they release the higher version of the Bitone in their Theises line when they impliment other cool features and high quality audiophile grade components to another layout and version of this technology. If you choose to venture into making your own modifications... well all I can say is do so at your own risk. As Ive alredy got my warning about no warranty with the plans and parts I plan on putting in for the updated version of the unit given all of the issues are resolved.

Ill have my updated version of the board, software, and firmware tomorrow and ill put it in this weekend so Ill let all of you know if everything is good to go...... I have totaly confiedence that my system will be silent and ready for some real down to earth tuning starting this weekend... To bad it goes to the detailers for color sanding and buffing on Monday..



The black sheep has spoken.... Bash away....


----------



## quality_sound

Where are my velcro gloves at???


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Personally I enjoyed reading your review. I have neither bashed the Bit One, nor been in denial about owning a unit that has no issues.(I have yet to get it in my hands).

I was warned by a fellow forum member, when discussing the Bit One, that it WOULD have issues. So I am going into it with that mindset. For me, its just hard to read posts where people discuss issues, but really dont quote a source or link to a web page, periodical article, etc. That is not to say that their word is not credible, it is just to say that once I hear something, I like to look further into it, read about it and just learn. Okay fine....all the boys at CES had issues....where can I learn more?

For now, I see that most of the issues have been spelled out (at least to my satisfaction). Having to deal with those software issues would drive me crazy too.

As you state in your post, 95% of the installs will do just fine without all the OCD tweaking frills worked out. I would be in that 95 percentile.

You did raise one point that will affect my install.

Mine will be behind a very difficult to remove rear seat. I have one other (much more) accesible location to possibly consider for the Bit One. If, during firmware upgrades, one must disconnect all connections except USB, AND there are known issues that will likely mean more firmware updates in the near future.....I think I will choose the more accessible mounting location for now.

I had hoped that with the ability to connect to the Bit One, via laptop, that once I had the connections correct and secure, it would be a "set it and forget it" setup. Simply sit in the drivers seat with the laptop and tweak away. Maybe not so much.....

Thank you again.


----------



## t3sn4f2

_____________


----------



## ErinH

Fred, you weren't kidding, that was a novel!

Thanks for your input.


----------



## St. Dark

They did do some level of beta testing...probably could have stood a tad more but beta testing was done. 

Keep in mind that a lot of the things that people will like or dislike are having to do with functionality: what it will do and how you go about making it do it. There will always be those of us that tune a specific way and "really wish it did THIS" versus another guy who loves how it does something. There are a few things that people have suggested (such as ability to select/deselect outputs at will for group EQ and time delay adjustment) that I think will be implemented at some point.
That's the beauty of the USB jack and the ability to upload firmware through it. Since it's a largely software driven piece, it CAN be "upgraded" after it's been sold and is in the field. Meridian and other home audio companies have done this; it's nice to see a car audio company approach things this way. And, as Larry Penn told me, chuckling, "I don't think Bit One will ever be 'done'." This being in reference to it's ability to have the software engine tailored and modified.


----------



## BenVollmer

Autiophile said:


> Isn't this sort of thing the reason companies use beta testers, to identify and resolve issues with the current implementation of a product prior to general release to consumers? Rushing to market with a product that isn't quite ready has the potential to harm the public perception of the company and that sort of damage is not easily repaired.
> 
> Glad to hear they are doing the right thing at this point, but it seems the situation could have been largely avoided by putting the unit in the hands of some qualified testers under a non-disclosure agreement to get the bugs worked out without all the issues spilling out onto the forums. Hope all works out well for the end users.


They actually had several units out to beta testers for a number of months. So they did... But the bugs I have seen or heard about are bugs that only affect 1% of the users...


----------



## ErinH

St. Dark said:


> That's the beauty of the USB jack and the ability to upload firmware through it. Since it's a largely software driven piece, it CAN be "upgraded" after it's been sold and is in the field. Meridian and other home audio companies have done this; it's nice to see a car audio company approach things this way. And, as Larry Penn told me, chuckling, "I don't think Bit One will ever be 'done'." This being in reference to it's ability to have the software engine tailored and modified.


That’s one thing I really like about this unit. The ability to do future updates is awesome. I just hope that there isn’t a fee associated with every update, and if there are fees at all, they’re not astronomical. 


As for the complaints; I don’t really have any. If it weren’t for the horrible alt whine issues I had, I would have zero complaints.


----------



## chad

"New application for this technology........"

Do elaborate......


----------



## chad

Dupe Wipe


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I think the Bit One will be "done" one day whether it has realized the full potential of software programming or not. No company will issue a device that is the end of all ends, because it would mean their demise. Audison will probably support the Bit One with firmware/software updates for 5 years max is my guess. Actually, even that is a long time.

Take Pioneer and the AVIC D3. Just purchased it two years ago....its already wiped off the shelves, no firmware upgrades are available...zelch. I went on their website three days ago just to check it out....I had to dig for a while to find anything about it.

I am not saying all companies are created equal.


----------



## quality_sound

What did you need for the D3? I never found a need for a firmware update on it.


----------



## linuxpro

Mr. Black Sheep,

I enjoyed your post and don't plan on bashing it, but it's obvious to me that your view of electronics manufacturers is that of an outsider.



Insane01VWPassat said:


> USE YOUR HEAD!!! its a new product... a new design.... and its not a $20 chinese prefab design thats off the shelf and available to the world. If you are that persistant to go into a frenzy to make sure you are the first one on the block to have something that has ZERO field time and has not been proved in quantaties and multiple applications be a runner..... EXPECT TO HAVE ISSUES!!! it's part of the game....In the end they will get worked out and the problems resolved.


It may not be a "$20 chinese prefab design", but this board is definitely an asian build, and will be built in a mass-fab process the same as any other asian fab. The way these devices are built; a group of EEs in Italy design the schematics, build a couple prototypes, verify with a , and then they send it off to asia (probably malaysia or taiwan) for fabrication. They get an early prototype back from asia, take into a lab, and are supposed to verify that high-level functionality works (controls, logic, software, etc). 

Notice that I said "supposed to." I have worked at a number of companies as an EE, even at a well-known and highly-regarded stereo equipment mfr, and that has never been my experience. Every EE "in the field" will tell you the same thing when it comes to QA (bug-testing) of electronics products: companies are SUPPOSED to test their devices, but most often, they just ask their engineers to provide a requirements list (a list of metrics that a device must meet in order to be released), and then they fudge some numbers and say it does. Yes, they will test anything that requires certification and they'll (begrudgingly) do their FCC(or other govt agency)-mandated testing, but that's generally most of your pre-release QA right there. 

In today's markets, a recall is generally cheaper than 6 months of testing, and a lot of companies will release products without proper QA because of this. When you're talking about a niche market like mobile audio hi-fi products, this is especially true.

One of the things that impresses me about the MS-8 is merely that the company building it is obviously putting a lot of emphasis on QA before release. I have a lot of respect for that, considering how rarely that occurs in any industry. That company is putting their customers before their profits, and I think that says a lot about their product. You hear people here bashing them by calling the MS-8 "vaporware", but they are more likely to provide a product that works "out of the box" that way, and I have a great deal of respect for them because of that.



Insane01VWPassat said:


> (NOTE THE BITONE IS EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO VOLTAGE FLUXUATIONS EVEN AS LITTLE AS .01 VOLTS AND CAN CAUSE LOCK UP ISSUES DURING THE UPDATE)


That's one of the primary reasons I think this device might have a poorly designed power stage, which is something that no firmware update will ever resolve. This fact alone makes me really nervous about buying the BitOne.

If there is one thing you should NEVER skimp on when designing an electronic device, the power stage would be it. And it appears Audison may have done that, although I can't tell without actually taking the device apart and looking at it myself (and testing with a DMM, etc). 



Insane01VWPassat said:


> This thing sounds AWESOME!!! Understanding the technology and design of this piece led me going into this with highe expectations..... I had several hours of time to demo different music selections..... THANKS STEVE HEAD!!!


Well that is great news. And if they're getting great sound from those crappy opamps, I can't wait to see what it sounds like with some Burr-Browns in there. I'm sure it will be another signifcant step up.



Insane01VWPassat said:


> My only concern on the current version is in the digital domain portion of the bitone while using a toslink or coaxial input. The **************************************************************************************************************************************edited and removed from a public forum out of courtesey to EM as this post was originally posted on a industry only forum************************************************************************************* of the firmware for the processor....


That's not fair... either remove the paragraph or don't censor yourself. Now I'm sitting here dying of curiosity.



Insane01VWPassat said:


> One last thing.... some of you earlier in the post were bitching about the use of the JRC output devices.... well what do you expect for a $800 processor.... If its 100% audiophile you are looking for then wait till they release the higher version of the Bitone in their Theises line when they impliment other cool features and high quality audiophile grade components to another layout and version of this technology.


When I buy "hi-fi" solid-stage equipment from a botique manufacturer, I expect them to use opamps that are at least as good as those found in the $90 motherboard of my desktop computer. JRC opamps are bottom of the barrel garbage.

And frankly, $800 is enough money that they could easily have used quality equipment. I've built a 7-channel amp with 3 Burr-Brown opamps in each channel (21 total opamps) and the entire project still cost me less than $400. 

My guess is that when the project when to fab, the fab-house mentioned they had a bunch of these JRCs sitting somewhere at a great price and so Audison decided to use them instead of whatever opamp had been specified by the engineers. I see crap like that all the time. To execs and bean-counters, a $1/unit savings is significant enough that they don't care how badly the product suffers. I call this kind of manufacturing "doing it the Chevy/GMC way." It is inexcusable to me, as an engineer, that any company would purposely and seriously degrade the quality of a supposed "high-end" product just to save a few dollars. But whatever...

I'm still probably going to buy this product, and your review makes me feel a lot better about that. As critical as I may sound above, that is because I am an engineer and have high expectations of my own work and others. Overall, it sounds like Audison may have a pretty good product, and I'm looking forward to getting it into my car. I'm pretty sure with the opamp swap, this thing is going to sound AWESOME going into my McIntosh amp and out to my 3-way active front stage (especially if I go with the Hertz setup that I've been looking at).

And thanks again for the great review, and the well-written post. I enjoyed reading it a lot and the info was really helpful.


----------



## quality_sound

linuxpro said:


> Mr. Black Sheep,
> 
> I enjoyed your post and don't plan on bashing it, but it's obvious to me that your view of electronics manufacturers is that of an outsider.



Fred is the Director of Marketing at Arc Audio...



> And frankly, $800 is enough money that they could easily have used quality equipment. I've built a 7-channel amp with 3 Burr-Brown opamps in each channel (21 total opamps) and the entire project still cost me less than $400.


If it cost you $400 to make it wouldn't hit the street for $1200 at a minimum.


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

linuxpro said:


> Mr. Black Sheep,
> 
> I enjoyed your post and don't plan on bashing it, but it's obvious to me that your view of electronics manufacturers is that of an outsider..


 Actually I work for a manufacture.... thats one reason Ive bit my lip till now..



linuxpro said:


> It may not be a "$20 chinese prefab design", but this board is definitely an asian build, and will be built in a mass-fab process the same as any other asian fab. The way these devices are built; a group of EEs in Italy design the schematics, build a couple prototypes, verify with a , and then they send it off to asia (probably malaysia or taiwan) for fabrication. They get an early prototype back from asia, take into a lab, and are supposed to verify that high-level functionality works (controls, logic, software, etc).
> 
> Notice that I said "supposed to." I have worked at a number of companies as an EE, even at a well-known and highly-regarded stereo equipment mfr, and that has never been my experience. Every EE "in the field" will tell you the same thing when it comes to QA (bug-testing) of electronics products: companies are SUPPOSED to test their devices, but most often, they just ask their engineers to provide a requirements list (a list of metrics that a device must meet in order to be released), and then they fudge some numbers and say it does. Yes, they will test anything that requires certification and they'll (begrudgingly) do their FCC(or other govt agency)-mandated testing, but that's generally most of your pre-release QA right there.
> 
> ..


 Well in the 12volt market there is very few products where the boards and primary assembly that arent built in China. I deal with these very facts on every run of product and thats why our company orders all of the parts for our components, and then we send our own people over to make sure that those parts actually make it into our products. We too have had more than our fare share of those exact issues with manufacturing in ASIA...



linuxpro said:


> In today's markets, a recall is generally cheaper than 6 months of testing, and a lot of companies will release products without proper QA because of this. When you're talking about a niche market like mobile audio hi-fi products, this is especially true.
> 
> One of the things that impresses me about the MS-8 is merely that the company building it is obviously putting a lot of emphasis on QA before release. I have a lot of respect for that, considering how rarely that occurs in any industry. That company is putting their customers before their profits, and I think that says a lot about their product. You hear people here bashing them by calling the MS-8 "vaporware", but they are more likely to provide a product that works "out of the box" that way, and I have a great deal of respect for them because of that.
> 
> ..


 for thh same reasons we havnt come out with our piece ... or even advertised it.. I actually have a friend who has the MSA in his truck.. he is on team JBL... only problem... he cant tune it, control it, or make changes unless one or two particular people from JBL corperate come to a show and use their laptops to control it for him. As far as we go... well we havnt even advertised it, spoke about it, or given specs until it is ready to avoid jsut these very problems. 

I know Audison did do some testing as I have spokme with a few of the people who was doing the testing prior to the release of the first run units. From experience it is very difficult in some cases to be able to recreate exact conditions of so many multiple variables to find ALL of the possible bugs... especially in car 12 volt applications.

You speak of the reason for the voltage tolerance issue.... well id like to agree but Ive seen some of the IMO best pro audio pieces and studio pieces have similiar issues with firmware updates... and I know for a fact they werent manufactured in ASIA... so I dont see a complete level of validation to your reasoning although the concept and theory behind it holds merit is still raise question to the actual relation to the situtation here. Please dont think this as being rude or argumentative but ive been working with this technology for some time and even with hand selected parts nad of even much higher tolerences it wa still subseptive to the issue during this process. 




linuxpro said:


> That's one of the primary reasons I think this device might have a poorly designed power stage, which is something that no firmware update will ever resolve. This fact alone makes me really nervous about buying the BitOne.
> 
> If there is one thing you should NEVER skimp on when designing an electronic device, the power stage would be it. And it appears Audison may have done that, although I can't tell without actually taking the device apart and looking at it myself (and testing with a DMM, etc).
> 
> 
> 
> Well that is great news. And if they're getting great sound from those crappy opamps, I can't wait to see what it sounds like with some Burr-Browns in there. I'm sure it will be another signifcant step up.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not fair... either remove the paragraph or don't censor yourself. Now I'm sitting here dying of curiosity.
> 
> ..


 Well it was posted on another forum and becuase I claimed it as a copy and paste and I didnt want to be called out on modifying the original post. I will elave it as the part that was removed was a few of the exact noted issues that was being heard theu the BItone. I didnt feel it was approperiate or professional for me to go into that kind of detail on a consumer public forum. Unfortunatly from past experiences people have a tendancy to take content and words into a world of their own defination and termanology which exceeds or alters the original content and its purpose. I did it out of respect to Audison as I felt it was somehting that should be left to hte industry guys only who can comprehend it in the contect of which it was intended.

When I buy "hi-fi" solid-stage equipment from a botique manufacturer, I expect them to use opamps that are at least as good as those found in the $90 motherboard of my desktop computer. JRC opamps are bottom of the barrel garbage.



linuxpro said:


> And frankly, $800 is enough money that they could easily have used quality equipment. I've built a 7-channel amp with 3 Burr-Brown opamps in each channel (21 total opamps) and the entire project still cost me less than $400.
> 
> My guess is that when the project when to fab, the fab-house mentioned they had a bunch of these JRCs sitting somewhere at a great price and so Audison decided to use them instead of whatever opamp had been specified by the engineers. I see crap like that all the time. To execs and bean-counters, a $1/unit savings is significant enough that they don't care how badly the product suffers. I call this kind of manufacturing "doing it the Chevy/GMC way." It is inexcusable to me, as an engineer, that any company would purposely and seriously degrade the quality of a supposed "high-end" product just to save a few dollars. But whatever...
> 
> I'm still probably going to buy this product, and your review makes me feel a lot better about that. As critical as I may sound above, that is because I am an engineer and have high expectations of my own work and others. Overall, it sounds like Audison may have a pretty good product, and I'm looking forward to getting it into my car. I'm pretty sure with the opamp swap, this thing is going to sound AWESOME going into my McIntosh amp and out to my 3-way active front stage (especially if I go with the Hertz setup that I've been looking at).
> 
> And thanks again for the great review, and the well-written post. I enjoyed reading it a lot and the info was really helpful.




Well once I confirm all of the issues have been taken care of ill be digging into this unit this weekend and upgrading a bunch of components. Including the output devices as the current ones dont meet my expectations. Please remember the parts they selected were not designed to be their "HIGH END"... they will be releasing nother version later this year planed to fit in their Theises line which will include all of those much higher quality parts focused on sound quality and fidelity where this was IMOP placed as a all around all in one reasonably priced integration piece with full aftermarket processor capabalities....... for that reason I think the parts chosen for this level of product are right on the money and they achieved the area of focus and market the product was intended..

PS..... Thank you for the well said response....


----------



## linuxpro

quality_sound said:


> Fred is the Director of Marketing at Arc Audio...


That is still an "outsider" when it comes to electronics. Just working at an electronics firm does not qualify someone to make statements about the quality of any electronics device, the soundness of its design, the quality of the components, etc. Unless Fred has the background electronics experience and education on which to base his opinions/findings, than his points are merely conjecture and entirely subjective. How does he know whether the design is a good one or not? 

That is the same as me walking into a marketing meeting at Arc Audio and telling Fred that he is full of crap about whatever marketing stuff he is talking about. He would find this ludicrous and probably think I was a ******* (and rightfully so). Who am I, as an engineer, to criticize his marketing techniques? That would be rather silly.

And since he had referred to the input of posters such as kyhang, myself and others with actual electronics experience as "bitching", I decided to call him on it. Unless you have some experience designing and actually building amplifiers yourself, with some hands-on experience with the various opamps, how do you even know what we're talking about, much less find it valid to call it "bitching"? 

And saying that we should expect problems with a product simply because we decided to be early adopters is, to be kind, pure hogwash. I've worked for a number of companies (Intel, IBM, McIntosh, Raytheon, Unisys, Lockheed-Martin, etc) that release new products on a regular basis following appropriate test/QA processes to verify that bugs will be non-existent on product release. So I don't buy that argument at all. 

All that being said, I hope I did not insult anyone, and this post was not meant to be insulting. Audison appears to be a solid company, and from what has been said here, it seems they have a very good support policy on their products - so I'm not saying Audison or the BitOne are crap. I'm probably going to buy one very soon. If anything, this thread has kind of helped sell me on the BitOne. My comments about the opamp and cap swaps came from my nerdy need to tweak stuff.

This is a DIY forum, and that's why we're here, man.


----------



## quality_sound

linuxpro said:


> That is still an "outsider" when it comes to electronics. Just working at an electronics firm does not qualify someone to make statements about the quality of any electronics device, the soundness of its design, the quality of the components, etc. Unless Fred has the background electronics experience and education on which to base his opinions/findings, than his points are merely conjecture and entirely subjective. How does he know whether the design is a good one or not?


Fair enough, but he does much more than just marketing. He'll elaborate more if he feels the need to. I'll just say I'd trust him with the comments he's made.


----------



## linuxpro

Insane01VWPassat said:


> PS..... Thank you for the well said response....


Thank you for the awesome response, too. I really enjoyed reading it, honestly, and you should probably ignore my last post. I am not trying to be adversarial or anything. I really enjoyed your view of the industry and of this product in particular. And I wish you could give me some more info on your product.


----------



## Horsemanwill

man Fred wheni saw you come on here i heard "bombs dropping"


----------



## DaleCarter

Parts of this are like reading a Dilbert strip, without the cute drawings


and the humor


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> What did you need for the D3? I never found a need for a firmware update on it.


I didnt need anything. But I think it wise to check with the mfr. of products you own to see if THEY have uncovered things that need updating, repaired, etc. Just because you dont run into the specific bug or problem does not mean that it does not exist. I know some at AVIC411.com had complaints about the accuracy of the navigation, for example.


----------



## quality_sound

Yeah, occasionally it would track me off the road a bit but I haven't ever seen a navi that didn't so I thought it was normal. Of all of the Pioneer navi units I actually thought the D3 was the best.


----------



## braves6117

linuxpro said:


> Thank you for the awesome response, too. I really enjoyed reading it, honestly, and you should probably ignore my last post. I am not trying to be adversarial or anything. I really enjoyed your view of the industry and of this product in particular. And I wish you could give me some more info on your product.


Linux, please stick around. I enjoyed your quality of posts regardless of agreement or disagreements. It's a great point of view.


----------



## 03blueSI

quality_sound said:


> Yeah, occasionally it would track me off the road a bit but I haven't ever seen a navi that didn't so I thought it was normal. Of all of the Pioneer navi units I actually thought the D3 was the best.


I agree navigation wise.

If my Avic-F90BT had the nav from the D3 and all of the other features it has I would be thrilled.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> Yeah, occasionally it would track me off the road a bit but I haven't ever seen a navi that didn't so I thought it was normal. Of all of the Pioneer navi units I actually thought the D3 was the best.


I know this D3 thing is OT, but I will say that I like my D3. Didnt mean to sound as though I do not like it. However, one gripe I do have is that the menus are poorly designed. Well, I rather should say that I think the menus/screen designers did a poor job of efficiently using all the available screen area. Sometimes you have to go through menu after menu just to get to a feature, this after pushing buttons on a screen that are only occupying 1/3rd of the screen. I realize the solution would not be fill 100% of the screen and saturate you (especially while driving). But there is a better way. I love my Ipod Touch and the navigation is superb. One specific example, is the Sirius radio screens. I realize they are not the same as XM, but you have to hit the same button (literally) six times to cycle through artist, song name, album, genre, composer, etc. All of this, while there is 90% empty space on each and every screen. Silly.

Finally, I had my OEM navigation from my 2004 BMW 330i to compare to the D3. I liked the BMW better. Even the method of inputting an address was more simplistic.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

cajunner said:


> so where are they? I don't see them on my favorite auction site as of yet, and they ought to be there unauthorized for about 380 bucks, I reckon....


They are hot off the shelves and with some delay for soe folks (such as myself). I doubt you will see them on Ebay for a little while longer.

reckon?

No that is when you are traveling down the highway and hit a truck....thats when you are "reckon."

lol


----------



## ARCuhTEK

$650 is what I paid...


----------



## Horsemanwill

if a bit one showed up on ebay i think Audison might feel the need to buy it themselves just to find out what business let it get on there.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

There is nothing to say that an individual could not post one on Ebay. They are available to the public now.


----------



## denali804

Horsemanwill said:


> if a bit one showed up on ebay i think Audison might feel the need to buy it themselves just to find out what business let it get on there.




Just like they buy up all the other audison and hertz stuff that's on ebay. If I want to put my brand new unit on ebay then so be it. Alot of stuff sold on there is not authorized, now will your warranty be honored???? I doubt it.


----------



## bose301s

Does anyone have a link to a site with full specs and the manual for the Bit One, I have checked Audison's website but can't find anything.


----------



## denali804

Not sure its complete and don't have time to compare to my manual on disc. But this should give you some reading material. 


http://www.armourautomotive.se/links/Bit_One_Advanced_Manual_1.1_ENG.pdf


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> Not sure its complete and don't have time to copare to my manual on disc. But this should give you some reading material.
> 
> 
> http://www.armourautomotive.se/links/Bit_One_Advanced_Manual_1.1_ENG.pdf


Thanks! This is a nice find and will keep me busy until my unit arrives.


----------



## slvrtsunami

denali804 said:


> Not sure its complete and don't have time to compare to my manual on disc. But this should give you some reading material.
> 
> 
> http://www.armourautomotive.se/links/Bit_One_Advanced_Manual_1.1_ENG.pdf


 
I HATE YOU!!!!! After browsing! not even reading, I want one!! ARRGGHHH the PAIN the AGONY. OK, Im done. Anyway, thanks for the link I already saved it and will read through it later. From what I've seen, its rather impressive, I was thinking about a modified Rane eventually, but after this, don't think I have to.


----------



## denali804

New bitone back in denali and sounding great. No complaints and great service from elettromedia. (Just for reference I had no problems with my original bitone). System as follows. Factory nav headunit to bitone and then out to audison vrx 4.300cs and stetsom 4k2d for sub. vrx runs 2 sets of hertz mlk165's and stetsom 4k2d runs an eclipse ti-pro 18inch sub. Wouldn't mind trying out a source unit with digital outputs and will also be trying out pro audio processors made by bss and xta in the near future.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

For current Bit One owners:

Does the Bit One allow you to program and save different scenarios/settings?

My wife does not like bass music and it would be nice if I could quickly access a different sound scenario. Operative word here is "quickly" access. I realize that even if the Bit One DID offer saved settings, I have no idea how I woudl access them on the fly without a laptop.

I am seriously considering putting my dedicated sub woofer amplifier on a toggle switch (remote wire only) and placing the toggle switch in an overhead location so that I can quickly turn the low end bass off totally. The 530w front stage will be more than enough (and still probably too much) for her.

I also know the volume knob is an option too....but not really being able to judge how powerful this system will be....I am thinking she will be annoyed even at low levels for the power I have in store.

Any thoughts?


----------



## ErinH

the bit one's controller has 4 preset buttons. you can call these up on the fly.


----------



## pyropoptrt

on top of the four different presets, I believe the controller can adjust sub volume as well. Just food for thought.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Ahhhhhhhh Thank you both!


----------



## slvrtsunami

Damn Italians!!! They HAVE to put out something nice and small and perfect for my future upgrade path. Only if I could afford it right now. Gotta be patient.


----------



## ticklenow1

Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot. 

It has definitely made a massive difference to the sound. The rear speakers in my 6 used to sound terrible (Hertz) but now they sound as they should. I am really looking forward to being able to get it tuned properly as I am sure that a good installer with a little experience with the Bit One could really improve upon my settings. I look forward to having the 4 presets so I can change the equalization with the different types of music that I listen to. I didn't really play with the settings too much as I had a few problems with the power supply side of things. One thing I had to do though was use the remote in terminal on the Bit One to get a remote out to turn my amp on and off (PDX4.100) otherwise I got a horrible popping sound when I turned it on.

On the down side, the test disc would not play that loud in my player. I think this is something that I did wrong as I didn't have the output volume turned up enough, but I couldn't work out how to change this before I played the CD.

To make matters worse, my laptop is a piece of junk and played up a little. I had to remove the software and reload it again which made it difficult as the instructions don't deal with this.

The power side of things is a little confusing to me. I am having problems with the auto turn on. Every now and again I have to use the remote to turn the system on. Weird. Once again I am sure that when I get it tuned properly this problem can be sorted out.

Speaking of the remote, I am struggling to find a suitable place to mount it. At the moment I have it just sitting ion the centre console.

I have the 1.0.5 firmware and apart from the turn on problem it works fine. I would be a little scared as well to try and put the lasted firmware on. I don't want to trash the thing. I might wait to that done professionally as well.

All in all, I am quite happy with the Bit One. It has achieved what I wanted it to and with the idea that I can get it tuned properly in the not to distant future, I am licking my lips at the thought of even better sound.


----------



## denali804

ticklenow1 said:


> Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot.
> 
> It has definitely made a massive difference to the sound. The rear speakers in my 6 used to sound terrible (Hertz) but now they sound as they should. I am really looking forward to being able to get it tuned properly as I am sure that a good installer with a little experience with the Bit One could really improve upon my settings. I look forward to having the 4 presets so I can change the equalization with the different types of music that I listen to. I didn't really play with the settings too much as I had a few problems with the power supply side of things. One thing I had to do though was use the remote in terminal on the Bit One to get a remote out to turn my amp on and off (PDX4.100) otherwise I got a horrible popping sound when I turned it on.
> 
> On the down side, the test disc would not play that loud in my player. I think this is something that I did wrong as I didn't have the output volume turned up enough, but I couldn't work out how to change this before I played the CD.
> 
> To make matters worse, my laptop is a piece of junk and played up a little. I had to remove the software and reload it again which made it difficult as the instructions don't deal with this.
> 
> The power side of things is a little confusing to me. I am having problems with the auto turn on. Every now and again I have to use the remote to turn the system on. Weird. Once again I am sure that when I get it tuned properly this problem can be sorted out.
> 
> Speaking of the remote, I am struggling to find a suitable place to mount it. At the moment I have it just sitting ion the centre console.
> 
> I have the 1.0.5 firmware and apart from the turn on problem it works fine. I would be a little scared as well to try and put the lasted firmware on. I don't want to trash the thing. I might wait to that done professionally as well.
> 
> All in all, I am quite happy with the Bit One. It has achieved what I wanted it to and with the idea that I can get it tuned properly in the not to distant future, I am licking my lips at the thought of even better sound.





Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)


Are you saying that if I have a Bit One (can we just shorten this to B1?) that I should route my HU remote turn on power to the B1, then to the amps?

I will have only one set of L and R RCAs going to the B1. I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.

I can easily change that to route directly to the B1, then from the remote power output....go to a small distribution block, then split that three ways to each amp.

Seems you are saying that Audison has a preference?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

ticklenow1 said:


> Just for the record, I have just installed the Audison Bit One in my Mazda 6. I have had no problems with noise issues that some others have had. All I did was use audiophile grade interconnects (AudioQuest) and earth the Amp and Audison to the one spot.


So are you saying that you have compared the difference between your system, with the exact set up, using AudioQuest (audiophile grade) RCAs and also a lesser quality, and that your components saw an improvement in sound with no other tweaks or adjustments that might have played a role in the improvement in the sound?

I have purchased Stinger RCA's but I cannot swear they are audiophile quality. I will have to go back and look at the model number and compare it to the other 1.4 million RCA cables on the market. The good news is that my longest run of RCAs is from the HU to the B1 (one pair). All the other RCA pairs will be about 3 feet long (total of 7 individual connects to three amps). Now I know that length of run does not always determine the quality of the signal so much as the construction of the wire, sheathing...etc. But it will make it easy to change them out should I feel the need to upgrade in the future.


----------



## Coheednme13

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.


If you use your remote turn on and split it you could draw too much current from your headunit and you could damage it. You need to install a relay that will draw current from the batt and use your remote turn on to tell the relay to send the current and then run from the relay to a terminal strip and jumper down to each turn on wire you need. I was told this by a World Champion IASCA winner I have not done it but maybe some one has pics of the jumping terminal strip as I don't have one.


----------



## ErinH

The bit one has remote outs. Let that do the turning on of the amps. Use the headunit's remote on to switch on the bit one. Otherwise, you may find your headunit can't provide enough power to switch amps/bit one on. Regardless, the bit one was designed to switch the amps on. 


As for 'audiophile grade' connections... well, I don't know if I have these. I had some nice folks here DIY me some RCAs and they seem to be just fine. When I switched the B1 in place of the h701 there was a world of difference in terms of sound quality and I had entered the same settings for the b1 as the h701; it was as much a straight swap as I could have gotten.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well letting the B1 handle the remote turn on certainly seems easier than a terminal strip, relay and jumpers. I reviewed the first post and photos and I see a remote in and out. But only one remote out. So is the standard practice for multiple amps to just plug multiple runs of wire (one from each amp) into this single remote out on the B1?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I was just reading the Owners Manual and on page 6 and 7 it shows three remote "ins" and one remote "out". That is weird...why so many remote ins? I would have predicted more remote outs for multiple amplifer connections, than remote ins. How many remote ins does a piece of equipment need? I am guessing that this is for the multiple modes of turning the power to the B1 on.....it says 

"4 • REMOTE IN-OUT
IN: for the processor remote turn-on through one or multiple signal sources, featuring Rem Out control.
OUT: output for the remote turn-on of the other devices/amplifiers connected to the processor."

Trying to think of what other devices one might need...ahh anyway....it does not apply to me best I can tell.


----------



## ErinH

Yea, it's odd to me, too.

Here's a closeup picture:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b...all/Audison Bit One/IMG_4863.jpg?t=1233509514

I had mine setup like this:
1 wire to 12v Power/Ground (1 wire, each, obviously)
Wire to the "key switch on" (remote turn on wire from headunit)
1 wire from the 'remote out'. I daisy chained each amp off the other one's remote in. Basically, I made a string of remote turn on wires coming from the bit one, going through each amp.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> I was just reading the Owners Manual and on page 6 and 7 it shows three remote "ins" and one remote "out". That is weird...why so many remote ins? I would have predicted more remote outs for multiple amplifer connections, than remote ins. How many remote ins does a piece of equipment need? I am guessing that this is for the multiple modes of turning the power to the B1 on.....it says
> 
> "4 • REMOTE IN-OUT
> IN: for the processor remote turn-on through one or multiple signal sources, featuring Rem Out control.
> OUT: output for the remote turn-on of the other devices/amplifiers connected to the processor."
> 
> Trying to think of what other devices one might need...ahh anyway....it does not apply to me best I can tell.



Keep in mind that some amplifiers have their own remote out to attach another amplifier to.


----------



## denali804

bikinpunk said:


> Yea, it's odd to me, too.
> 
> Here's a closeup picture:
> http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b...all/Audison Bit One/IMG_4863.jpg?t=1233509514
> 
> I had mine setup like this:
> 1 wire to 12v Power/Ground (1 wire, each, obviously)
> Wire to the "key switch on" (remote turn on wire from headunit)
> 1 wire from the 'remote out'. I daisy chained each amp off the other one's remote in. Basically, I made a string of remote turn on wires coming from the bit one, going through each amp.


Erin, Just curious, but why didn't you use the remote in on the bitone and then do the remote out to the amp. Just curious as to if their is any difference when using the key switch in terminal. Manual is not very clear in this area. I've found that alot of the european items that ive purchased electronic wise don't really hand feed us as far as details in the manual. I think we just love to have more information ;-) European car manuals are great though.


----------



## ErinH

I honestly don't even remember. I think it has something to do with the memory setting.


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> Are you saying that if I have a Bit One (can we just shorten this to B1?) that I should route my HU remote turn on power to the B1, then to the amps?
> 
> I will have only one set of L and R RCAs going to the B1. I have planned in my system, to run a remote turn on to a small power distribution block and then split off four wires, one to each of three amps and then one to the B1.
> 
> I can easily change that to route directly to the B1, then from the remote power output....go to a small distribution block, then split that three ways to each amp.
> 
> Seems you are saying that Audison has a preference?


Learned years ago in pro audio that amps turned on last and turned off first in audio chain eliminated un wanted thumps and pops. Don't load down the turn on lead from your head unit. Run it into the bitone and then use the bitone remote out wire to turn on your amps. This way you have no problems and shouldn't have any turnon/off issues. The manual says that maximum output on the remote out of the bitone is 12vdc/10ma. If for some reason you need more current than that for remote you will need to use a relay.


----------



## ErinH

the bit one has a built in relay (like the 701) so that the amps switch on last. I've always assumed this was to eliminate turn on/off thump.


----------



## kyheng

Coheednme13 said:


> If you use your remote turn on and split it you could draw too much current from your headunit and you could damage it. You need to install a relay that will draw current from the batt and use your remote turn on to tell the relay to send the current and then run from the relay to a terminal strip and jumper down to each turn on wire you need. I was told this by a World Champion IASCA winner I have not done it but maybe some one has pics of the jumping terminal strip as I don't have one.


Nope, Hu's remote out is [email protected](Pioneer). You can use it to power on your amps upto 3-4, more than that it won't damage the HU, only the remote in on amps cannot see 12V anymore and they refuse to turn on.
Unlike house power supply(AC), car is using battery(DC) which very much affected by current draw.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I like the idea of going into the B1 with the HU remote wire, then using the B1 remote out. But since there is only one slot for B1 remote out...and I have to feed three amps, I could do the daisy chain as posted above, but is it a problem to run three separate wires (one from each amp) into this one slot on the B1?


----------



## ErinH

No. Voltage is shared. If you chain them or split them, it's the same.


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Hey guys, I just found a good deal on an Audison Bit One $650!!! I had another source from the DIYMA website, but did some research and found someone closer to me.
> 
> So the dead is done, order went through and it should be into the suppliers store within one week!
> 
> WOOOHOOOOO


Could you PM me the information of your seller, please?

Thanks...


----------



## monkeyboy

Ordered mine yesterday. I should have it on Saturday.


----------



## ticklenow1

denali804 said:


> Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)


It is a little confusing. I have the high level speaker inputs, and to be honest, I haven't tried them on there own to see if they turn the thing on and off. I have the 12 Volt connected, obviously the earth, the remote wire and the remote out.

It is essential that people use the remote out to connect the amps up. I didn't at first and got a horrible pop!


----------



## ticklenow1

denali804 said:


> Are you using the bitone with hi level inputs or rca's. Also what exact connections have you made on the unit. The reason im asking is that audison folks told me that the unit only wants to see one method of turn on. For people using rca's you should just need a constant 12, ground, and remote in, possibly remote out to get rid of amp turn on/off pop. If using speaker(hi) level inputs it should voltage sense and turn the unit on. You really shouldn't have to hook up the extra terminals they have on the unit that are labled liked keyed and memory (i think. not looking at unit now)





ARCuhTEK said:


> So are you saying that you have compared the difference between your system, with the exact set up, using AudioQuest (audiophile grade) RCAs and also a lesser quality, and that your components saw an improvement in sound with no other tweaks or adjustments that might have played a role in the improvement in the sound?
> 
> I have purchased Stinger RCA's but I cannot swear they are audiophile quality. I will have to go back and look at the model number and compare it to the other 1.4 million RCA cables on the market. The good news is that my longest run of RCAs is from the HU to the B1 (one pair). All the other RCA pairs will be about 3 feet long (total of 7 individual connects to three amps). Now I know that length of run does not always determine the quality of the signal so much as the construction of the wire, sheathing...etc. But it will make it easy to change them out should I feel the need to upgrade in the future.


No, unfortunately I did not put cheap ones in first. I was having enough trouble without testing different cables. I am not saying that my cables are the best you can buy, just that it was easier to get my local Hi-Fi shop to make the cables the exact length I wanted. Also, being a bit of a home theatre nut, I am aware of the need for good quality cables. I looked at the shielding on some of the cables at the local car audio place (that were not cheap either), then at the AQ's and it is chalk and cheese. Whether or not this has made a difference I do not know, but I would like to think it has. 

When I get a chance I am going to have another play with the power supply side of things and another crack at the equalization etc. :worried:


----------



## doitor

If Bikin has one, I got to have one too.










Played with it yesterday in my test bench. 
Had NO problems to get it working and playing with the Denford and thru my studio monitors.
I'm putting it in the car this weekend to see how it does against the H900.

Jorge


----------



## ErinH

I'm really curious to see what you think between it and the h900.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Autiophile said:


> While it may be overkill, I prefer to use a single, conservatively fused, remote turn on lead from the processor to switch a relay. The relay then provides 12v power from my main distribution block to a smaller distribution block that has leads for all of my amps. I used the block in the first link below to handle the turn on leads, fans, and other 12v accessories. Couple other versions in the other links. You can sometimes find them at local marine supply places.
> 
> BLUE SEA 5026 ST BLADE FUSE BL12 CIRCUIT W/NEG BUS
> 
> BLUE SEA 5029 FUSE BLOCK SCREW TERM BLADE
> 
> BLUE SEA 5025 ST BLADE FUSE BL6 CIRCUIT W/NEG BUS
> 
> 
> Bikin, glad to hear the cables are working out well. Definitely a high value cable in my opinion.


I like the sub panel you show in the link. Very nice.

Maybe I am making a relay over complicated. I understand its concept but I do not have a CLUE what it actually is.... Is it the size of a Mack truck or the size of a sno pea? I will go research this, knowing full well I have other options. I just like to learn..

Thanks!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Thanks. This is one of my favorite sites. I use it often, just never saw this page.

I understand the concept of the relay...I just need to look into buying one. I guess I will go to the home and garden center to get one since I have no idea where else to look....

LOL

Maybe radio shack.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Thanks. This is one of my favorite sites. I use it often, just never saw this page.
> 
> I understand the concept of the relay...I just need to look into buying one. I guess I will go to the home and garden center to get one since I have no idea where else to look....
> 
> LOL
> 
> Maybe radio shack.


You will alway's find relay's at car part stores (pep boy's ect...). Relays are used for AUX lights such as hella, KC, ect...


----------



## braves6117

doitor said:


> If Bikin has one, I got to have one too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with it yesterday in my test bench.
> Had NO problems to get it working and playing with the Denford and thru my studio monitors.
> I'm putting it in the car this weekend to see how it does against the H900.
> 
> Jorge



Now that will be interesting!


----------



## doitor

braves6117 said:


> Now that will be interesting!


Yes it will.
I'm going to give both a fair shot.
Will be using the Denon Z1 via RCA's with both with the same settings.
It's actually part of the test I'm doing.

Jorge.


----------



## quality_sound

I think the H900 will take the Bit One, but not by much. I think the parts used in the 900are better and that will give it the advantage.


----------



## ErinH

^ yea, but with the bit one being 1/2-1/3 the price of the h900, even if the h900 is just a bit better, it's not worth it. 

I think that's what Jorge is banking on. (and me too)


----------



## doitor

bikinpunk said:


> ^ yea, but with the bit one being 1/2-1/3 the price of the h900, even if the h900 is just a bit better, it's not worth it.
> 
> I think that's what Jorge is banking on. (and me too)


Yep.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Well, maybe I could.
LOL.

Jorge.


----------



## quality_sound

ahhhh, I thought this was more of a full-on better product vs. a better value type deal. If that's the case the Bit One is going to be damn near hard to beat.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I received word today...my B1 is in town!!

YIPEE


----------



## m3gunner

Congrats to the proud father...


----------



## denali804

ticklenow1 said:


> It is a little confusing. I have the high level speaker inputs, and to be honest, I haven't tried them on there own to see if they turn the thing on and off. I have the 12 Volt connected, obviously the earth, the remote wire and the remote out.
> 
> It is essential that people use the remote out to connect the amps up. I didn't at first and got a horrible pop!


You would have turn on issues with how you have it. In your I think you should be using 12v,ground,and speaker connections only. And then of course your remote out to your amps. Elettro stressed to me big time that the unit should only be set up to turn on one way. good luck.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

OK its getting me upset, ok not upset, just jealous! I want one also. Where can I buy one. Help!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I think most any Audison dealer can help you with ordering a B1 these days.


----------



## xlynoz

If anyone is interested here is the manual. Now if I can just get my hands on the B1 itself.

http://www.autoradia.sk/centralny-download/manualy/audison?download=27844


----------



## Iron Maiden

cubdenno said:


> I recommend the Fluke 87.


x2 excellent choice


----------



## faiz23

thinking about picking up a audison or might just invest into a better carputer and run without a headunit or processor and get a kick as sound card to do all my time delay, crossover, rta, and equalizer.


----------



## BurntCircuits

doitor said:


> Yes it will.
> I'm going to give both a fair shot.
> Will be using the Denon Z1 via RCA's with both with the same settings.
> It's actually part of the test I'm doing.
> 
> Jorge.


And the winner is _____________?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

faiz23 said:


> thinking about picking up a audison or might just invest into a better carputer and run without a headunit or processor and get a kick as sound card to do all my time delay, crossover, rta, and equalizer.


And what kick ass sound card would do all that for you?


----------



## doitor

BurntCircuits said:


> And the winner is _____________?


To be honest as far as sound goes it's pretty darn close.
And the price difference is pretty big.
That's if you can find the H900.
Plus the BitOne also works as an integration piece with it's speaker level inputs.
Taking a lot of aspects, I think the BitOne is the winner.

Jorge


----------



## ErinH

FWIW, I got my replacement in last night. The box had a green sticker on it that said “New Unit”. I also noticed audison sent me brand new cables. When I sent my box in I only included the hardware. Maybe they had new ones altogether and ship them out, or they’re replacing the boards and packing them as BNIB. Either way, I’m happy. Now I just gotta pray for no issues. It’ll be a few weeks before I’m able to try it out.


----------



## starboy869

I can always find an h900 for sale in the land of the rising sun. I'm already regerting selling selling my h900.


----------



## ErinH

okay, then order an h900 and quit telling us about it.


----------



## doitor

starboy869 said:


> I can always find an h900 for sale in the land of the rising sun. I'm already regerting selling selling my h900.


I might have one for sale pretty soon.

Jorge.


----------



## BurntCircuits

doitor said:


> To be honest as far as sound goes it's pretty darn close.
> And the price difference is pretty big.
> That's if you can find the H900.
> Plus the BitOne also works as an integration piece with it's speaker level inputs.
> Taking a lot of aspects, I think the BitOne is the winner.
> 
> Jorge


Sure would like to know how they stack up when using a digital input!


----------



## linuxpro

I just placed an order for a new Audison BitOne, and should have it within a week or two. Thanks to Archutek for hooking me up with a great reseller that gave me a very good price, on both the BitOne and a full Mille MLK2 setup for my front stage.

When I get it, I can get some pics up for people. I'm going to have fun installing my system (which might take a few days since it's my first car audio install) and then playing with it, so it might be a month before I can post any real opinions on the product.

I also plan to keep the original op-amps in place for a while. If I use it for a while and decide to upgrade the op-amps, then I'll update this thread with some pics and how-to instructions.

I'm definitely looking forward to getting it installed in my car along with the Hertz speakers and my 6-channel McIntosh amp for an active 3-way front stage that should sound pretty freakin good (I hope).


----------



## doitor

BurntCircuits said:


> Sure would like to know how they stack up when using a digital input!


 I've heard from several well known car audio gurus, that the analog inputs is the way to go on the H900.

Jorge.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!!*


----------



## slvrtsunami

AARGHHH!!!! this is KILLING ME!!!! 

Really, thanks to all the early adopters to spend their money adn try it out first, so the rest of us peeons will be better informed. 

Now, how to convince......


----------



## linuxpro

Congratulations, bro! It's *finally* in your hands. That must be awesome.

I should have mine in 1-2 weeks. Just ordered yesterday and now I'm planning my amp install, how to put a 6-channel McIntosh and the BitOne in an SLK-350 trunk (this will be fun).

For anyone else considering a BitOne, PM me or Arcuhtek if you want to know where we got it for a great price from an authorized dealer who was very helpful.

Arcuhtek, let me know what you think of it when you get it installed.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Well I just order one also. These Bit One's should have the latest software and firmware updates. I think for the first time in years i'm truly happy with the products I have chosen for a long awaited comp systems and will have no need to change anytime soon, well maybe if I can find a ECD-510. 

The system is as follows:

*Head Unit/Transport:* Eclipse ECD-416

*Processor: *Audison Bit One  

*Tweeters:* Hiquphon OW1-fs

*Midranges: *I have in hand Scan 12m's, HAT L4's, Scan 15w's and looking to get a set of Focal 3w2 Be's and I will make my choice for these.

*Midbass:* JBL 2118H

*Subwoofers:* 2 Alto Mobile Falstaff 12's

*Tweeter Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300

*Midrange Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300

*Midbasses Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300 or 2 Modified Soundstream D200II not sure which way I want to go yet.

*Subwoofers: Amp* DLS A6


----------



## ARCuhTEK

If anyone wants dimensions (thread is so long I cannot remember if these have been posted).


Width: 8 7/8"
Depth: 6"
Height: 1"

She is TINY!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> Arcuhtek, let me know what you think of it when you get it installed.


I should have it installed within a week or so....two weekends max. I am not quite ready for the Bit One....working on speakers and HU mods now.

Its coming!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> The system is as follows:
> 
> *Head Unit/Transport:* Eclipse ECD-416
> 
> *Processor: *Audison Bit One
> 
> *Tweeters:* Hiquphon OW1-fs
> 
> *Midranges: *I have in hand Scan 12m's, HAT L4's, Scan 15w's and looking to get a set of Focal 3w2 Be's and I will make my choice for these.
> 
> *Midbass:* JBL 2118H
> 
> *Subwoofers:* 2 Alto Mobile Falstaff 12's
> 
> *Tweeter Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300
> 
> *Midrange Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300
> 
> *Midbasses Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300 or 2 Modified Soundstream D200II not sure which way I want to go yet.
> 
> *Subwoofers: Amp* DLS A6


Wow what a "defined" system. Tell me more about your sub amp and the sub. I have a DLS A6 for my sub too. I have several subs on hand to consider. But I can only use one 10 in the vehicle.

So as not to derail this thread you can respond to me in PM or at my build thread. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/53086-my-2008-f150-supercrew-install.html

Thanks,


----------



## braves6117

Here-I-Come said:


> The system is as follows:
> 
> *Head Unit/Transport:* Eclipse ECD-416
> 
> *Processor: *Audison Bit One
> 
> *Tweeters:* Hiquphon OW1-fs
> 
> *Midranges: *I have in hand Scan 12m's, HAT L4's, Scan 15w's and looking to get a set of Focal 3w2 Be's and I will make my choice for these.
> 
> *Midbass:* JBL 2118H
> 
> *Subwoofers:* 2 Alto Mobile Falstaff 12's
> 
> *Tweeter Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300
> 
> *Midrange Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300
> 
> *Midbasses Amp:* Modified Soundstream MC300 or 2 Modified Soundstream D200II not sure which way I want to go yet.
> 
> *Subwoofers: Amp* DLS A6



Oh man, I love the OW1's!



I can't wait to here back from all you guys regarding the bit one. It's getting me pumped, and I already loved Audison!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

The very first thing in the box is a single 8 1/2" double sided color document labeled "Instructions for Use"

Here are low rez scans of that document.

Page 1









Page 2


----------



## ErinH

^ that paper used to not be in there.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> ^ that paper used to not be in there.


Likely a result of firmware update problems?


----------



## ErinH

Yep. That's what I was implying, lol.


----------



## denali804

You might want to talk to Joe and ask if it is okay for you to post this in an open forum. Elletro, Audison, And Hertz don't allow their dealers to sell out of their area as far as I know. You might just want to pm the people interested in getting the great deal on the unit. You wouldn't want to risk the chance of your hookup loosing his authorized dealer status. If I'm wrong Ill just go back in my hole and hide, but I don't want him to get in any trouble. Enjoy the new product. I love mine.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Linux....I think he is right. Can you edit your thread? Thanks. Just let people know that more info is available from a PM.


----------



## linuxpro

Previous post edited.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Denali,

Can you edit your post which has linuxpro's old quote in it?

Thanks,


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I also edited my post, braves6117 can you edit your post to reflect the changes I made. Thanks!


----------



## braves6117

Here-I-Come said:


> I also edited my post, braves6117 can you edit your post to reflect the changes I made. Thanks!



No problem


----------



## ARCuhTEK

So back to Bit One talk....

I have a question for those who already have this unit installed. I had originally planned to mount this unit behind my rear seat and the rear seat is a PITA to remove just to tweak a system. Having said that, it was my brainstorm idea to keep the USB cable permanently connected to the Bit One with it running under my carpet and coiled up inside my center console. Want to tweak the sound....whip out the laptop and connect it to the cable in the center console...and fire away.

Suddenly it occurred to me that having the USB cable connected permanently might be a no-no....meaning the system requires it to be unplugged when in normal operational mode.

Can anyone confirm or deny this? I would read the manual but I left it at work!


----------



## denali804

The Drc is disabled when the cable is hooked into the bitone and computer. I think that it disables when connected to the computer side of the cable but Ill check to make sure. I hope for your sake it happens when connected to the computer side.


----------



## ErinH

I leave my usb ran in the car. In fact, I bought a 15' usb cable for this purpose because the 9' that comes with it isn't long enough. If you don't plug it into the laptop it doesn't recognize the cable. 

Cable runs up my car, and out the center console. When I want to use the laptop I just pull out the cable. Simple as that.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> I leave my usb ran in the car. In fact, I bought a 15' usb cable for this purpose because the 9' that comes with it isn't long enough. If you don't plug it into the laptop it doesn't recognize the cable.
> 
> Cable runs up my car, and out the center console. When I want to use the laptop I just pull out the cable. Simple as that.


smart man


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> Denali,
> 
> Can you edit your post which has linuxpro's old quote in it?
> 
> Thanks,


I tried to edit my post last night but had a virus on computer that wouldn't let me log on and forgot my password. Did it this morning. Sorry it took so long.


----------



## ErinH

*Re: Audison Bit One Guts (Hi-res: 56k, Go make some coffee and take a nap)*



bikinpunk said:


> (and, no, the bit one isn't the issue)


OH, the irony!

So, the first post in this thread was outright wrong.

It WAS indeed the bit one, though it wasn't the RCA solder joints. 

go figure.


----------



## quality_sound

What was the problem?


----------



## ErinH

ummm.....


lol. Are you serious?


remember?... alt whine?... recall?...


----------



## trunks9_us

bikinpunk said:


> I leave my usb ran in the car. In fact, I bought a 15' usb cable for this purpose because the 9' that comes with it isn't long enough. If you don't plug it into the laptop it doesn't recognize the cable.
> 
> Cable runs up my car, and out the center console. When I want to use the laptop I just pull out the cable. Simple as that.


Where did you get this giant long cable from I want one for my zapco dsp6?


----------



## ErinH

yours is different from ours. The zapco end isn't the same type USB cable. I believe this is the one you need:
For only $1.55 each when QTY 50+ purchased - USB A to mini-B 5pin cable - 15FT | USB 2.0 Cable - Mini-B Type


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> I leave my usb ran in the car. In fact, I bought a 15' usb cable for this purpose because the 9' that comes with it isn't long enough. If you don't plug it into the laptop it doesn't recognize the cable.
> 
> Cable runs up my car, and out the center console. When I want to use the laptop I just pull out the cable. Simple as that.


Precisely what my intentions were/are with my setup. The 9' cable will work in my case.

Thanks!


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> Precisely what my intentions were/are with my setup. The 9' cable will work in my case.
> 
> Thanks!


It's amazing what a little extra time, and in Erin's case a couple bucks, will save you down the road in headaches. (says the guy that installed a power supply in his car so he cound tune int eh garage for extended periods and probably never show the car)


----------



## ErinH

FWIW, I'm also using a 15' cable for outside the car use. If you can, I advise ordering one for using outside the car, too. 
Then you can run your RTA and do all your leveling/x-over outside the car. I typically just bring a chair or table outside and set the laptop on that. 

When we get the house finished I’ll have a computer in the garage so that I can do all my ‘out of the car’ tuning from a comfy seat on the bench rather than in the car cramped. 

All in all, I think it's best to have one ran in the car, but also one that you can plug in as needed from outside the car. Just makes it a bit easier overall. I bought my 15' cables for about $1.50/each from monoprice. 

Just a thought.


----------



## EEB

With the Bit one. My alpine HU has the opitical out. If I used it I would still have to run RCA's unless I wanted to use the Bit one controller for volume?

What are the dimensions of the controller?


----------



## ErinH

optical = digital

RCA = analog


Are you going to listen to anything other than the CD source? If so, you'll need rcas.
Actually, just to set the bit one up, you'll need rcas. 

So, YES.


----------



## linuxpro

bikinpunk said:


> optical = digital
> 
> RCA = analog
> 
> 
> Are you going to listen to anything other than the CD source? If so, you'll need rcas.
> Actually, just to set the bit one up, you'll need rcas.
> 
> So, YES.


Or, the speaker-level inputs.


----------



## ErinH

^ yes, but if he's using the 505, he's not using hi-level inputs. Unless he's got some CRAZY setup.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> FWIW, I'm also using a 15' cable for outside the car use. If you can, I advise ordering one for using outside the car, too.
> Then you can run your RTA and do all your leveling/x-over outside the car. I typically just bring a chair or table outside and set the laptop on that.
> 
> When we get the house finished I’ll have a computer in the garage so that I can do all my ‘out of the car’ tuning from a comfy seat on the bench rather than in the car cramped.
> 
> All in all, I think it's best to have one ran in the car, but also one that you can plug in as needed from outside the car. Just makes it a bit easier overall. I bought my 15' cables for about $1.50/each from monoprice.
> 
> Just a thought.



I have a shop computer AND a clunker laptop that I use for tuning, you WANT a laptop for tuning, especially if you compete and you want to touch it up at a show. A PIII 1.3g and a half gig of ram will run a striiped own XP, SmaartLive5 and likely the audison software with no issues. Free computer sans a 20 dollar display inverter from ebay. Using it now in fact on the linux side on a dock while the shop computer works on music rendering.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> FWIW, I'm also using a 15' cable for outside the car use. If you can, I advise ordering one for using outside the car, too.
> Then you can run your RTA and do all your leveling/x-over outside the car. I typically just bring a chair or table outside and set the laptop on that.
> 
> When we get the house finished I’ll have a computer in the garage so that I can do all my ‘out of the car’ tuning from a comfy seat on the bench rather than in the car cramped.
> 
> *All in all, I think it's best to have one ran in the car, but also one that you can plug in as needed from outside the car. Just makes it a bit easier overall. I bought my 15' cables for about $1.50/each from monoprice. *
> 
> Just a thought.


15' is the limit for USB by the way, or so it was last time I checked.


----------



## EEB

bikinpunk said:


> optical = digital
> 
> RCA = analog
> 
> 
> Are you going to listen to anything other than the CD source? If so, you'll need rcas.
> Actually, just to set the bit one up, you'll need rcas.
> 
> So, YES.


Thanks

Only other thing I might listen to besides CD's is Sirius if I hook it back up.


----------



## EEB

bikinpunk said:


> ^ yes, but if he's using the 505, he's not using hi-level inputs. Unless he's got some CRAZY setup.



Nothing crazy. My HU for this install will actually be an old school Alpine CDA 7939.


----------



## ErinH

t3sn4f2 said:


> 15' is the limit for USB by the way, or so it was last time I checked.


Never even knew there was a limit. Learn something new everyday! 



EEB said:


> Nothing crazy. My HU for this install will actually be an old school Alpine CDA 7939.


Don't know why I thought you had a w505. Guess I'm just used to seeing that model talked about. 

Regardless, it's the same deal.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> Never even knew there was a limit. Learn something new everyday!


The limit is on how long the cable by itself can be I should say. There are other ways to _extend_ the total functional length by using hubs or an extender cable that has a self contained single ended hub on the tip.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

With the longer cable in mind (and if you were me) woudl you both to run the USB cable to the front area of the truck in the center console, OR would you roll it up and place it in a very convenient spot just beside the rear door (where you can open the door, reach behind the seat (easily) and unroll the 15' cord to your chair?

I guess I could run the 15 foot cord to the center console for in seat tuning and it would also be long enough to pull outside the car.

Guess I just answered my own question.

Thanks for the ideas guys.


----------



## It_Hertz

I ran the 9' cord in mine up to the center console and got a female to female adapter.. I am molding the female into tmy console then I just plug a standard male to male into it form the laptop have 3' and a 6'(for outside the vehicle)


----------



## nepl29

have any of you guys thought on adding a TRU SSLD6 Line Driver into your systems?


----------



## Technic

FYI: I got a bit one yesterday from the same source of ARCuhTEK and installed right away... my initial impression: wait until Audison fix this device. 

The car is a 2008 M3 Sedan with Premium Audio (Individual Audio). The set up is simple: take the front/rear high pass and sum with the central low pass for a full range signal, set inputs levels into the bit one, "De-Equalize" the OEM processing, set output channels and that's it.

It is not. 

This device is not summing at all. I know that it is "De-Equalizing" because the main issue that I have with the Individual Audio is the muffled sound of the vocals, and by the end of the bit one calibration the high pass sound output is clear as pure water.

Contacted Matt at Elettromedia and most probably this afternoon we will be going thru some phone troubleshooting. 

This reminds me of not buying any processor until 2 years of being released... it happened with the 3SIXTY.2 and now it happens again.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Technic said:


> FYI: I got a bit one yesterday from the same source of ARCuhTEK and installed right away... my initial impression: wait until Audison fix this device.
> 
> The car is a 2008 M3 Sedan with Premium Audio (Individual Audio). The set up is simple: take the front/rear high pass and sum with the central low pass for a full range signal, set inputs levels into the bit one, "De-Equalize" the OEM processing, set output channels and that's it.
> 
> It is not.
> 
> This device is not summing at all. I know that it is "De-Equalizing" because the main issue that I have with the Individual Audio is the muffled sound of the vocals, and by the end of the bit one calibration the high pass sound output is clear as pure water.
> 
> Contacted Matt at Elettromedia and most probably this afternoon we will be going thru some phone troubleshooting.
> 
> This reminds me of not buying any processor until 2 years of being released... it happened with the 3SIXTY.2 and now it happens again.


Please keep us posted on your issues, and solutions. This is disheartening, especially when others have gotten the "revised" version back from recall and have not mentioned any issues. Would we be back to same issue of ""some devices are flawed and some are not"? Though summing seems to be a basic approach to computations, not firmware IMO.


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Please keep us posted on your issues, and solutions. This is disheartening, especially when others have gotten the "revised" version back from recall and have not mentioned any issues. Would we be back to same issue of ""some devices are flawed and some are not"? *Though summing seems to be a basic approach to computations, not firmware IMO.*


So far it seems that it is a software issue: http://download.elettromedia.it/files/audison/FAQ_english_rev00.pdf

The bit one sums high level inputs, indeed. However in page 3 of that document it tries to explain how the sum is done, and I think that it answers my issue somewhat: the bit one naming options for each high level input basically determines if there's going to be summing or not. For example, if the high inputs are in fact full range and are named "Front Full" and "Rear Full" in the setup then there will be no summing. 

In my particular case, I tried all of those names (Front Full/Tweeter/Midrange/Woofer and Rear Full/Tweeter/Midrange/Woofer) using 6 high level input channels to no avail: it only process the high pass ouputs (bit one high input channels 1-4) of my OEM amp and never sums the low pass (bit one high input channels 5-6) into the high pass. Result: absolutely no bass. 

It seems to me that either there is a software issue with the naming command (it simply doesn't discern between names; most probably the issue) or two input names are required to be added -*Mid-Hi* for each Front and Rear speakers. That will "tell" the bit one that somewhere else in the input channels should be a low pass and force it to sum all of them (long shot). 

Either way it doesn't fully work.


----------



## nepl29

hopefully its a quick fix. im think about getting this unit to replace my cleansweep/ summing/h701 combo in my 530.

Do you have the 8" woofer under your seats? im looking at the manual and its saying that on channel 7, you could only name it Center Full/Tweeter/ and on channel 8, subwoofer.

how about using channel 1 and 2 for tweets, channnel 3 and 4 for the 4" mids in the door and instead of using channel 5, 6 for the rears use them for the 8" subs under your seat?


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> hopefully its a quick fix. im think about getting this unit to replace my cleansweep/ summing/h701 combo in my 530.
> 
> Do you have the 8" woofer under your seats? im looking at the manual and its saying that on channel 7, you could only name it Center Full/Tweeter/ and on channel 8, subwoofer.
> 
> how about using channel 1 and 2 for tweets, channnel 3 and 4 for the 4" mids in the door and instead of using channel 5, 6 for the rears use them for the 8" subs under your seat?


The bit one manual posted previously is not the full release one, this is: http://download.elettromedia.it/files/audison/Bit One manual 1_2a.pdf

You can name the high level inputs in no particular order.

Except the Z4 and the X3 all BMW's in the USA have 8" woofers under the seats and all have high pass (mid/high) and low pass outputs in their OEM amps. There is no dedicated tweeter or midrange OEM amp output regardless of the OEM system (HiFi, Logic7, Premium Audio). 

Therefore at least 4 channels have to be sum to have the full range stereo signal; that's where I think that the problem is, there is no "Mid-Hi" setting in the high level inputs. It is either Full, Tweeter, Midrange or Woofer, and the subwoofer cannot be used as it is mono input (it only can be addressed to one channel). 

So even using "Front Tweeter, Rear Midrange and Front Woofer" as the input names the bit one still doesn't sum the lows with the highs...


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> The bit one manual posted previously is not the full release one, this is: http://download.elettromedia.it/files/audison/Bit One manual 1_2a.pdf
> 
> You can name the high level inputs in no particular order.
> 
> Except the Z4 and the X3 all BMW's in the USA have 8" woofers under the seats and all have high pass (mid/high) and low pass outputs in their OEM amps. There is no dedicated tweeter or midrange OEM amp output regardless of the OEM system (HiFi, Logic7, Premium Audio).
> 
> Therefore at least 4 channels have to be sum to have the full range stereo signal; that's where I think that the problem is, there is no "Mid-Hi" setting in the high level inputs. It is either Full, Tweeter, Midrange or Woofer, and the subwoofer cannot be used as it is mono input (it only can be addressed to one channel).
> 
> So even using "Front Tweeter, Rear Midrange and Front Woofer" as the input names the bit one still doesn't sum the lows with the highs...


i actually didnt use the oem amp when i did my install.i got my signal from the cd drive.


----------



## ErinH

Has anyone used the dynamic EQ yet? I never got around to fiddling with it and haven’t put mine back in sent I got it back from warranty.


----------



## Technic

With the assistance of Larry at Electtromedia, the "bass issue" was resolved... the Individual Audio OEM amp woofer power output saturated the bit one when the "De-Equalization" feature was activated. There was bass when the "De-EQ" was not used.

His solution was very simple: once I found out that without the "De-EQ" there was bass he suggested to reduce the output levels of the bit one and increase the Master Volume to compensate. And it did... 

One of my concerns about the CL-SSI summing device from JL Audio (used with the Cleansweep) was the high level inputs max rating of 20V. The Individual Audio OEM amp puts out more than 100W RMS at 7 ohms, which is somewhere around 26V peak. The initial specs of the bit one rated its maximum voltage at 32V RMS or _45V_ peak... but the final specs put the rated max high level input at 20V also. That made the difference...

Thanks to Electtromedia and the seller of this device for their quick response and assistance. And I stand corrected: this processor not only works, it sounds incredible. 

The next step is to wait until the MOST fiber optic converter into Toslink shows up next month, so there will be no need to sum any high level inputs. It will be fully digital, from the iDrive, thru the bit one and up to the aftermarket amps.


----------



## linuxpro

It's good to hear that it's working well for you, Technic.

And I'm thankful that I chose the Audio20 when I ordered my Mercedes SLK. The "premium" systems in Mercedes, BMW and Porsche autos are a PITA to upgrade, mostly due to the MOST fiber systems they use. In the Mercedes, they integrate all kinds of vehicle controls into the MOST network, so upgrading your stereo is pretty much impossible (or at least, a complete nightmare).

My rule of thumb with German and Japanese cars: Always order the base stereo. It makes the eventual upgrade WAY simpler. And you can build a way better system than a stock premium for the same money the dealer would charge for the "premium" (most often some kind of Blose or HK crap).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Technic said:


> With the assistance of Larry at Electtromedia, the "bass issue" was resolved... the Individual Audio OEM amp woofer power output saturated the bit one when the "De-Equalization" feature was activated. There was bass when the "De-EQ" was not used.
> 
> His solution was very simple: once I found out that without the "De-EQ" there was bass he suggested to reduce the output levels of the bit one and increase the Master Volume to compensate. And it did...
> 
> One of my concerns about the CL-SSI summing device from JL Audio (used with the Cleansweep) was the high level inputs max rating of 20V. The Individual Audio OEM amp puts out more than 100W RMS at 7 ohms, which is somewhere around 26V peak. The initial specs of the bit one rated its maximum voltage at 32V RMS or _45V_ peak... but the final specs put the rated max high level input at 20V also. That made the difference...
> 
> Thanks to Electtromedia and the seller of this device for their quick response and assistance. And I stand corrected: this processor not only works, it sounds incredible.
> 
> The next step is to wait until the MOST fiber optic converter into Toslink shows up next month, so there will be no need to sum any high level inputs. It will be fully digital, from the iDrive, thru the bit one and up to the aftermarket amps.


I am glad to hear your issue was resolved and (to me) with seemingly little effort. I am also glad to hear that you are satisfied with the B1.

Better than all of that, I am glad you came forward and corrected your previous statements. It says a lot to set aside intellectual ego (not saying anything about your ego or anyone elses) and be true to your real opinions on a product versus trying to continue bashing it just to cover up your wrongs.

Okay enough playing Mr Rogers....for real. Thanks for the update.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Nice, I feel great again. Glad they work thru your issue.


----------



## t3sn4f2

I'm still wondering about the issue with the digital inputs mentioned a while back.


----------



## nepl29

im glad you got everything worked out. im gonna order my unit now.


----------



## nepl29

btw, did you notice a big improvement in sound over your previous setup?


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> btw, did you notice a big improvement in sound over your previous setup?


I think that the improvement is not radical, but significant in several areas. 

Before...










... after:










In my particular case, you can see that the bit one replaced three devices, reducing the clutter. But most important, it eliminated a noise source (the Cleansweep introduces some hiss if you want to keep using the OEM volume). Now I can keep using the OEM volume and there is as much hiss as OEM (almost none).

Because that noticiable hiss was eliminated the sound quality is more clear and much more defined to the ears, especially between songs and in silence portions of the music. The pletora of EQ bands, crossovers and time delays really help in creating a much more personalized tuning than before. The Dynamic Equalization works pretty well, fixing one of the deficiencies of the Individual Audio -low volume definition- while allowing much higher volume without distortion. The other deficiency, muffled voices, is completely gone (my last setup fixed that as well) by the "De-EQ" feature.

In all, I'm very satisfied. I hope that it will be even better once the bit one digital inputs can be used in this setup.


----------



## ErinH

I went through the manual earlier, but as said before, I haven't had a chance to reinstall mine so I can't fiddle with this... dynamic EQ....

When you set the low & high points for it, you use only the bit one software and change the volume on the slider, correct? If so, I'm wondering how this works when you use headunit volume. Surely you're not expected to use the DRC to control volume for this, right?


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> I think that the improvement is not radical, but significant in several areas.
> 
> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my particular case, you can see that the bit one replaced three devices, reducing the clutter. But most important, it eliminated a noise source (the Cleansweep introduces some hiss if you want to keep using the OEM volume). Now I can keep using the OEM volume and there is as much hiss as OEM (almost none).
> 
> Because that noticiable hiss was eliminated the sound quality is more clear and much more defined to the ears, especially between songs and in silence portions of the music. The pletora of EQ bands, crossovers and time delays really help in creating a much more personalized tuning than before. The Dynamic Equalization works pretty well, fixing one of the deficiencies of the Individual Audio -low volume definition- while allowing much higher volume without distortion. The other deficiency, muffled voices, is completely gone (my last setup fixed that as well) by the "De-EQ" feature.
> 
> In all, I'm very satisfied. I hope that it will be even better once the bit one digital inputs can be used in this setup.


I been following your thread over m3post, i know who you are:
We kind have the same set up, but im using the H701 processor. Im also using the alpine vehiclehub with the navtv interface. im gonna redo my system and just use the factory system with the bit one and get rid off everything else. 
heres a pic of my set up, i had to add the summing device after everything was done


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Technic said:


> Before...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... after:


I am sorry but I had to laugh at your photos. Not in bad way...a good way. The difference is amazing between the two photos. Now, I am wondering for entertainment purposes....

If you did the math for those three pieces, plus additional cables, harnesses etc. How does the price for all compare to the Bit One purchase expense? Just a wild guess?


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> I went through the manual earlier, but as said before, I haven't had a chance to reinstall mine so I can't fiddle with this... dynamic EQ....
> 
> When you set the low & high points for it, you use only the bit one software and change the volume on the slider, correct? *If so, I'm wondering how this works when you use headunit volume.* Surely you're not expected to use the DRC to control volume for this, right?


You are correct... I went back and adjusted the OEM volume and there was no change. The Dynamic EQ is only available with the DRC (which I'm not using). 

The change that I noticed was at the PC setup of the DEQ, which changes the Master volume and not the OEM volume. My mistake...


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> I been following your thread over m3post, i know who you are:
> We kind have the same set up, but im using the H701 processor. Im also using the alpine vehiclehub with the navtv interface. im gonna redo my system and just use the factory system with the bit one and get rid off everything else.


Your setup is simply impressive...


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am sorry but I had to laugh at your photos. Not in bad way...a good way. The difference is amazing between the two photos. Now, I am wondering for entertainment purposes....
> 
> If you did the math for those three pieces, plus additional cables, harnesses etc. How does the price for all compare to the Bit One purchase expense? Just a wild guess?


Quite a change, isn't it? 

If current market prices (no discounts) are paid, the previous 3 module setup is $21 cheaper than the bit one, no cables included. Add cables and the prices are more or less the same. And when you include the installation then it is no comparison...

However, buying the bit one thru your source ended up being almost $100 _less_ than my old set up.


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> You are correct... I went back and adjusted the OEM volume and there was no change. The Dynamic EQ is only available with the DRC (which I'm not using).
> 
> The change that I noticed was at the PC setup of the DEQ, which changes the Master volume and not the OEM volume. My mistake...


well, if you have to use the drc to get the d-eq functionality that just sucks.


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> well, *if you have to use the drc to get the d-eq functionality* that just sucks.


I tried again and that's the way it works... only thru the DRC. The manual doesn't specifically states so in the Dynamic EQ section but in reality the volume that is being adjusted in the setup is the Main Volume and not the Master (OEM) source volume.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Technic said:


> With the assistance of Larry at Electtromedia, the "bass issue" was resolved... the Individual Audio OEM amp woofer power output saturated the bit one when the "De-Equalization" feature was activated. There was bass when the "De-EQ" was not used.
> 
> His solution was very simple: once I found out that without the "De-EQ" there was bass he suggested to reduce the output levels of the bit one and increase the Master Volume to compensate. And it did...
> 
> One of my concerns about the CL-SSI summing device from JL Audio (used with the Cleansweep) was the high level inputs max rating of 20V. The Individual Audio OEM amp puts out more than 100W RMS at 7 ohms, which is somewhere around 26V peak. The initial specs of the bit one rated its maximum voltage at 32V RMS or _45V_ peak... but the final specs put the rated max high level input at 20V also. That made the difference...
> 
> Thanks to Electtromedia and the seller of this device for their quick response and assistance. And I stand corrected: this processor not only works, it sounds incredible.
> 
> *The next step is to wait until the MOST fiber optic converter into Toslink shows up next month, so there will be no need to sum any high level inputs. It will be fully digital, from the iDrive, thru the bit one and up to the aftermarket amps. *


You might loose OEM master volume control from the head unit by going with that MOST device. Digitally transmitted signals are normally sent full scale from the head unit and then the head unit sends control signals to the OEM processor/amp so that volume control can be done at that point after the digital transmission point. 

You could also loose other analog sources unless they are converted to digital to be send on that way.

Try talking to Andy W. on here and see if he knows for sure how it all works.


----------



## Technic

t3sn4f2 said:


> You might loose OEM master volume control from the head unit by going with that MOST device. Digitally transmitted signals are normally sent full scale from the head unit and then the head unit sends control signals to the OEM processor/amp so that volume control can be done at that point after the digital transmission point.
> 
> *You could also loose other analog sources unless they are converted to digital to be send on that way.*
> 
> Try talking to Andy W. on here and see if he knows for sure how it all works.


In the case of the BMW MOST OEM amp, all audio signals are digitalized as its inputs. 

I casually mentioned these mObridge Toslink/low level ouputs preamps units to Matt in Electtromedia, as mObridge is claiming complete integration with the bit one specifically, and to my surprise Electtromedia was the one with the idea of this integration into their bit one. So both companies are working in the development of these preamp devices for a total integration of not only the bit one but into the OEM car systems. They will also be selling these preamps devices as well in the USA. 

So not only the OEM volume will continued to be used, it will go as a digital command into the bit one by the way of the preamp device, as well as any bass, treble and EQ adjustment done thru the OEM HU -or in BMW's case the iDrive. For example, if you increase the 100Hz band in the iDrive EQ it is supposed to go straight to the bit one as a command to increase the 100Hz band as well. 

The only adjustment that will be lost according to Matt is the OEM fader. Hard to understand as there must be some command in the same data packets as the other adjustments for fader but that's what he told me...


----------



## ErinH

If anyone is interested, I think I'm selling my BNIB bit one that I got back from Audison last week. PM me if interested.

- Erin


----------



## t3sn4f2

Technic said:


> In the case of the BMW MOST OEM amp, all audio signals are digitalized as its inputs.
> 
> I casually mentioned these mObridge Toslink/low level ouputs preamps units to Matt in Electtromedia, as mObridge is claiming complete integration with the bit one specifically, and to my surprise Electtromedia was the one with the idea of this integration into their bit one. So both companies are working in the development of these preamp devices for a total integration of not only the bit one but into the OEM car systems. They will also be selling these preamps devices as well in the USA.
> *
> So not only the OEM volume will continued to be used, it will go as a digital command into the bit one by the way of the preamp device, as well as any bass, treble and EQ adjustment done thru the OEM HU -or in BMW's case the iDrive. For example, if you increase the 100Hz band in the iDrive EQ it is supposed to go straight to the bit one as a command to increase the 100Hz band as well. *
> 
> The only adjustment that will be lost according to Matt is the OEM fader. Hard to understand as there must be some command in the same data packets as the other adjustments for fader but that's what he told me...


That's pretty cool stuff.


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> In the case of the BMW MOST OEM amp, all audio signals are digitalized as its inputs.
> 
> I casually mentioned these mObridge Toslink/low level ouputs preamps units to Matt in Electtromedia, as mObridge is claiming complete integration with the bit one specifically, and to my surprise Electtromedia was the one with the idea of this integration into their bit one. So both companies are working in the development of these preamp devices for a total integration of not only the bit one but into the OEM car systems. They will also be selling these preamps devices as well in the USA.
> 
> So not only the OEM volume will continued to be used, it will go as a digital command into the bit one by the way of the preamp device, as well as any bass, treble and EQ adjustment done thru the OEM HU -or in BMW's case the iDrive. For example, if you increase the 100Hz band in the iDrive EQ it is supposed to go straight to the bit one as a command to increase the 100Hz band as well.
> 
> The only adjustment that will be lost according to Matt is the OEM fader. Hard to understand as there must be some command in the same data packets as the other adjustments for fader but that's what he told me...


Do you know how much is the preamp gonna cost? i went to their website and there no info on the msrp. from what i understand it should be out next month?


----------



## Babs

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am sorry but I had to laugh at your photos. Not in bad way...a good way. The difference is amazing between the two photos. Now, I am wondering for entertainment purposes....
> 
> If you did the math for those three pieces, plus additional cables, harnesses etc. How does the price for all compare to the Bit One purchase expense? Just a wild guess?


Agreed.. MUCH cleaner install.. I'm guessing just cleaning up the signal path alone also could only be a good thing for his SQ, as well as the better processing.


----------



## Technic

t3sn4f2 said:


> That's pretty cool stuff.


I really hope so... 



nepl29 said:


> Do you know how much is the preamp gonna cost? i went to their website and there no info on the msrp. from what i understand it should be out next month?


I asked both mObridge and to Electtromedia for the price of these preamp devices and they have not established it yet. My "guesstimate" is $300 MSRP tops for either one...

In your particular case you do not need either of these MOST converters, as your 5 Series OEM sound system is HiFi -analog differential outputs from the iDrive CCC into the OEM amp. So it will be a matter of unplugging the OEM amp and soldering wires-to-RCA cables into the CCC outputs/OEM amp inputs pins and then using those RCA cables as inputs to the bit one. No need for "De-EQ" either, as those CCC outputs are fairly flat in response. 

You would need these converters only if your OEM system were Logic7 or Individual Audio (only M5 in the USA).


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> I really hope so...
> 
> 
> 
> I asked both mObridge and to Electtromedia for the price of these preamp devices and they have not established it yet. My "guesstimate" is $300 MSRP tops for either one...
> 
> In your particular case you do not need either of these MOST converters, as your 5 Series OEM sound system is HiFi -analog differential outputs from the iDrive CCC into the OEM amp. So it will be a matter of unplugging the OEM amp and soldering wires-to-RCA cables into the CCC outputs/OEM amp inputs pins and then using those RCA cables as inputs to the bit one. No need for "De-EQ" either, as those CCC outputs are fairly flat in response.
> 
> You would need these converters only if your OEM system were Logic7 or Individual Audio (only M5 in the USA).


Thanks for the info bro. as far as i know my factory amp only powers the subs under the seat, i guess i can get all the signals from that amp?. i took out the signal from m-ask, i dont ccc because i dont have the factory nav and the signal weren't flat, thats why i had to install the jl summing device.


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Thanks for the info bro. as far as i know my factory amp only powers the subs under the seat, *i guess i can get all the signals from that amp?. *i took out the signal from m-ask, i dont ccc because i dont have the factory nav and the signal weren't flat, thats why i had to install the jl summing device.


I did a search on the E60 HiFi system and I'm very surprised that BMW is using two different OEM amps for the 3 and 5 Series. 

The OEM amp in your E60 has only two channel inputs (low level), already crossovered (some 500Hz down) from the MASK. The MASK also have another 4 output channels (high level 100Hz up) going into the mids/tweets. So in total, your MASK outputs 6-channels

I really did not expect such a combo. 

You will need to continue using a summing device and perform "De-EQ" in your OEM signal as there is no MOST connection for audio output in the MASK with HiFi. I'm not sure if the bit one can process a combination of 4 high level with two low level signals at its high level inputs (the lowest that it can go is 1.2V, so it could be possible as long as those OEM woofers low level signal exceed that level). 

In the worst case, you will need to keep using the OEM amp outputs with the MASK outputs to reconstruct your full signal in the bit one.


----------



## dubist

I have a 3sixty2 to integrate the head unit on my 07 Mercedes with aftermarket amps and speakers but have some whine and want to upgrade. I have to use the high level input from the amps bc of MB's proprietary fiber optic crap. Is the overall feeing that the bit one is a superior product and is there any problem with the noise floor?


----------



## Focalaudio

bikinpunk said:


> If anyone is interested, I think I'm selling my BNIB bit one that I got back from Audison last week. PM me if interested.
> 
> - Erin


Where can we read about the detailed spec's on this unit? I want to read the manual before I decide to buy one. Can we download it somewhere?


----------



## t3sn4f2

Focalaudio said:


> Where can we read about the detailed spec's on this unit? I want to read the manual before I decide to buy one. Can we download it somewhere?


http://download.elettromedia.it/files/audison/Bit%20One%20manual%201_2a.pdf


----------



## Focalaudio

Thank you!


----------



## Dooby357

i agree with Technic about less clutter, it does make a big difference especially when troubleshooting. One product to deal with vs. three or more, lol.


----------



## monkeyboy

Quick question. Have you ever had yours not come on? I have mine set to come on when the head unit remote wire comes on, and sometimes, it doesn't. I have to launch it from the remote screen. Not a big deal, but I want it to work every time.


----------



## linuxpro

Just got a call from the Audison dealer this morning, and my BitOne is now on its way to my house. Talk about awesome. Should have it by next Thursday or Friday and then I'll post pics!

Hey, to all you people already using this thing... any more observations? 

Anyone using this with a stock head-unit in a German car (Audi, VW, M/B, Porsche, BMW, etc)? I'm curious if it's made much difference for you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Have not turned mine on yet....but I am anxiously and painfully close in my install status........

Pant!


----------



## ErinH

linuxpro said:


> Just got a call from the Audison dealer this morning, and my BitOne is now on its way to my house. Talk about awesome. Should have it by next Thursday or Friday and then I'll post pics!
> 
> Hey, to all you people already using this thing... any more observations?
> 
> Anyone using this with a stock head-unit in a German car (Audi, VW, M/B, Porsche, BMW, etc)? I'm curious if it's made much difference for you.


I don't have any more, no. As long as the new one I have doesn't have issues then I'm sticking to my original review (somewhere on this forum).


----------



## Technic

linuxpro said:


> Just got a call from the Audison dealer this morning, and my BitOne is now on its way to my house. Talk about awesome. Should have it by next Thursday or Friday and then I'll post pics!
> 
> Hey, to all you people already using this thing... any more observations?
> 
> *Anyone using this with a stock head-unit in a German car (Audi, VW, M/B, Porsche, BMW, etc)? * I'm curious if it's made much difference for you.


My set up is in a 2008 BMW M3...


----------



## stereojnky

nepl29 said:


>


What kind of ipod mount is that and where did you get it from? Is it the pro.fit ultimount?


----------



## linuxpro

Technic said:


> My set up is in a 2008 BMW M3...


Are you using the stock head-unit? And if so, are you using the high-level (speaker) outputs?

That's what I'll be doing in my SLK until I replace the head-unit. I'm curious if there are any major disadvantages to using the high-level inputs on the BitOne. One cool thing about doing so is that it uses the input on the high-level to turn the unit on/off, so I don't have to run another cable (remote power).


----------



## Technic

linuxpro said:


> *Are you using the stock head-unit? And if so, are you using the high-level (speaker) outputs?*
> 
> That's what I'll be doing in my SLK until I replace the head-unit. I'm curious if there are any major disadvantages to using the high-level inputs on the BitOne. One cool thing about doing so is that it uses the input on the high-level to turn the unit on/off, so I don't have to run another cable (remote power).


My reviews are here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/668150-post352.html and here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/668718-post359.html

In my case I'm using the high level inputs because there's no other choice right now, and my issue with this unit was due of using those bit one high level inputs which are not as "high level" as I assumed they were. As soon as the Toslink converter is available I'm removing the high level inputs from this processor.

I'm using as well a proper OEM remote signal from the OEM Navigation system as I don't like signal sensing circuits; in my experience most of them cause pops and noise in BMW's OEM systems.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

So I am preparing to mount and connect the Bit One. I have a newbie question.

Since the Bit One has auxiliary inputs that allow you to eq different sources separately I am wondering why one woudl do this unless absolutely necessary. Meaning, unless you had no other way to connect your iPod, satellatie radio..etc.

In my case, my Pioneer AVIC-D3 has multiple input sources, so my route is to connect my iPod, Sirius and hands free bluetooth set up through the D3 and use only one set of RCAs (front left and front right) to send a signal to the Bit One.

Is that the right thing to do? For those of you that know car audio better (which in my assessment is most of you) than I do, is there a drawback in going this route?

What I dont get, is that (for example) if you send a signal from the HU and then elect to set the iPod up to the B1 auxiliary inputs, how do you control which source to listen to (say popping in a CD on the Hu versus listening to the iPod? Is this done via the B1? Seems more complicated to send multiple signal sources to the B1 than doing it all through the HU.

Am I making sense?


----------



## quality_sound

Yes, send everything to the D3 first and then out to the Bit One.


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> My reviews are here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/668150-post352.html and here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/668718-post359.html
> 
> In my case I'm using the high level inputs because there's no other choice right now, and my issue with this unit was due of using those bit one high level inputs which are not as "high level" as I assumed they were. As soon as the Toslink converter is available I'm removing the high level inputs from this processor.
> 
> I'm using as well a proper OEM remote signal from the OEM Navigation system as I don't like signal sensing circuits; in my experience most of them cause pops and noise in BMW's OEM systems.


Where are you getting your remote from? i think thats what giving noise right now on my current set up.


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> So I am preparing to mount and connect the Bit One. I have a newbie question.
> 
> *Since the Bit One has auxiliary inputs that allow you to eq different sources separately I am wondering why one woudl do this unless absolutely necessary. * Meaning, unless you had no other way to connect your iPod, satellatie radio..etc.
> 
> In my case, my Pioneer AVIC-D3 has multiple input sources, so my route is to connect my iPod, Sirius and hands free bluetooth set up through the D3 and use only one set of RCAs (front left and front right) to send a signal to the Bit One.
> 
> Is that the right thing to do? For those of you that know car audio better (which in my assessment is most of you) than I do, is there a drawback in going this route?
> 
> What I dont get, is that (for example) if you send a signal from the HU and then elect to set the iPod up to the B1 auxiliary inputs, how do you control which source to listen to (say popping in a CD on the Hu versus listening to the iPod? Is this done via the B1? Seems more complicated to send multiple signal sources to the B1 than doing it all through the HU.
> 
> Am I making sense?


Those bit one AUX inputs are to make up for HU that _do not_ have AUX/iPod inputs. In your case -as in mine- those inputs are not necessary as our HU have total control (volume, track, playlists, source) of those AUX inputs.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Thats what I thought (and was hoping was the easy answer).

Thanks.


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Where are you getting your remote from? i think thats what giving noise right now on my current set up.


The 5 Series -as well as my M3- have an amplified diversity antenna in the rear window: 










The MASK unit have an output to turn on this antenna amplifier, and _I think _that it is the same signal used to turn on the underseat woofers OEM amp; I don't have the pin assignment of the rear connector of the MASK unit, sorry. That's the remote signal that you should use; you should not load that OEM remote signal with too many aftermarket devices, though. If you have more than one device to turn on I would recommend a relay with a 1A fuse to protect that OEM remote signal from overloading. 

As stated before, the bit one has a remote out signal so it can be used as the remote signal relay for the rest of the devices downstream. Just connect that OEM remote signal directly to the bit one and then use the bit one remote out signal to turn on the rest of your devices. That protects the OEM remote signal as well as eliminate any pops/noise in your system.


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> The 5 Series -as well as my M3- have an amplified diversity antenna in the rear window:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MASK unit have an output to turn on this antenna amplifier, and _I think _that it is the same signal used to turn on the underseat woofers OEM amp; I don't have the pin assignment of the rear connector of the MASK unit, sorry. That's the remote signal that you should use; you should not load that OEM remote signal with too many aftermarket devices, though. If you have more than one device to turn on I would recommend a relay with a 1A fuse to protect that OEM remote signal from overloading.
> 
> As stated before, the bit one has a remote out signal so it can be used as the remote signal relay for the rest of the devices downstream. Just connect that OEM remote signal directly to the bit one and then use the bit one remote out signal to turn on the rest of your devices. That protects the OEM remote signal as well as eliminate any pops/noise in your system.


Thanks for the breakdown. ill take a lot at the mask diagram when i install the bitone along with the dension 500 this weekend.


----------



## nepl29

looks like pin 13.
Thanks again


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> looks like pin 13.
> Thanks again


It is also pin 13 in my M3...


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> So I am preparing to mount and connect the Bit One. I have a newbie question.
> 
> Since the Bit One has auxiliary inputs that allow you to eq different sources separately I am wondering why one woudl do this unless absolutely necessary. Meaning, unless you had no other way to connect your iPod, satellatie radio..etc.
> 
> In my case, my Pioneer AVIC-D3 has multiple input sources, so my route is to connect my iPod, Sirius and hands free bluetooth set up through the D3 and use only one set of RCAs (front left and front right) to send a signal to the Bit One.
> 
> Is that the right thing to do? For those of you that know car audio better (which in my assessment is most of you) than I do, is there a drawback in going this route?
> 
> What I dont get, is that (for example) if you send a signal from the HU and then elect to set the iPod up to the B1 auxiliary inputs, how do you control which source to listen to (say popping in a CD on the Hu versus listening to the iPod? Is this done via the B1? Seems more complicated to send multiple signal sources to the B1 than doing it all through the HU.
> 
> Am I making sense?


As Technic stated you guys case everything can be done via your headunit, for someone like me, I'm using the Optical input and my head has no Aux ins and 99.8 of the heads don't digitize the tuner signal, I only know of three, the Pioneer DEX-P9, Eclipse ECD-416 and ECD-510 and the DEX-P9 is the only one that will down digital volume control. Have the Eclipse units with no Aux ins, but I all have a DRZ with 2 Aux, but want use it with the Bit One when I have the other two, well I have the 416 and will have the 510 shortly. I really want a DEX-P9 so I don't have to remote mount the face of the Eclipse unit to keep the volume control, tracking, play and pause close to each other. I wish the old school Eclipse unit had a remote I could mold in a panel, but no such luck. But they are about the best transport you will find.

So I will need to use the B1's Aux Ins. I would then have to use the B1's controller to select which input I want to listen to. But you must remember you have to setup (choose your inputs) this up in your initial configuration of the Bit 1 or you will have to redo the setup. Then you just press the SRC and it will take you thru your different Sources.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here-I-Come said:


> As Technic stated you guys case everything can be done via your headunit, for someone like me, I'm using the Optical input and my head has no Aux ins and 99.8 of the heads don't digitize the tuner signal, I only know of three, the Pioneer DEX-P9, Eclipse ECD-416 and ECD-510 and the DEX-P9 is the only one that will down digital volume control. Have the Eclipse units with no Aux ins, but I all have a DRZ with 2 Aux, but want use it with the Bit One when I have the other two, well I have the 416 and will have the 510 shortly. I really want a DEX-P9 so I don't have to remote mount the face of the Eclipse unit to keep the volume control, tracking, play and pause close to each other. I wish the old school Eclipse unit had a remote I could mold in a panel, but no such luck. But they are about the best transport you will find.
> 
> So I will need to use the B1's Aux Ins. I would then have to use the B1's controller to select which input I want to listen to. But you must remember you have to setup (choose your inputs) this up in your initial configuration of the Bit 1 or you will have to redo the setup. Then you just press the SRC and it will take you thru your different Sources.


Wouldn't the DEX do the digital volume control on the processors side and sent control signals from the head unit? Or am I misunderstanding how the outputs digital and theres a digital out from the processor as well?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

t3sn4f2 said:


> Wouldn't the DEX do the digital volume control on the processors side and sent control signals from the head unit? Or am I misunderstanding how the outputs digital and theres a digital out from the processor as well?


Nope, all others combos do, but the DEX is the only head that does digital volume control internal not at the processor. That why it is great for those of using wanting to run a digital signal to a processor not of the pioneer brand.

Now the thing is you will need the Panasonic cable (not longer made) or the new Alpine digital cable they have for the W505 to connect to the H701 to run the DEX with another processor. It uses the 4 pin digital connector as does the Eclipse ECD-416/510.

No digital out on the processor, Control is done via the IP-BUS cable.

This the reason I have been trying to found one. I miss one on Ebay last week it went for 395+shipping from Canada.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here-I-Come said:


> *Nope, all others combos do, but the DEX is the only head that does digital volume control internal not at the processor. That why it is great for those of using wanting to run a digital signal to a processor not of the pioneer brand.*
> 
> Now the thing is you will need the Panasonic cable (not longer made) or the new Alpine digital cable they have for the W505 to connect to the H701 to run the DEX with another processor. It uses the 4 pin digital connector as does the Eclipse ECD-416/510.
> 
> This the reason I have been trying to found one. I miss one on Ebay last week it went for 395+shipping from Canada.


Awesome


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well folks, my Bit One is now successfully installed. I had no real glitches in installing it. But I am, for the most part, an owners manual freak. I am thinking of starting a "Audison Bit One - Learn the Software" thread. Some of you may resent me for doing so, just because I will be asking really basic questions, not only about software but basic car audio things (like slopes, xos etc).

Even with almost no tweaking, well none that I know what I am doing, my system sounds pretty darn incredible for five speakers. Yes I know the quality is not in the quantity of speakers. Anyway...I am happy with it, minus perhaps my midbass. I expected a little more power from 210 w RMS to each K2P. But then again....all I have done is turn it on...no real work on gains, xos, slopes...etc.

I am pretty excited.

Meanwhile I wanted to post one complaint.

The power connection tabs (I dont know what else to call them) where you wire the memory, ground and 12v power, are (at first) pretty amazing in that you can work with them pretty easily because they do disconnect, allow you to insert wires and then push the tab back into the system.

My complaint is that the tiny screws, do not really allow you to tighten the wires to the tab positions. I am just tweaking my system and have not mounted the Bit One yet. I stil have some house cleaning on custom cutting sire lengths etc, so the B1 is kind of floating around on my floor pan until I make sure all the electronics are correctly wired etc. Well, the power, ground and memory wires keep coming loose. I have had to stop and reinsert them three times now. Each time trying my best to screw then down tight.

Anyone else had this problem?

Otherwise, and beyond learning the software....she sounds pretty darn good out of the box!


----------



## ErinH

My wires hold just fine. I give them a tug and all is well. 


As for starting a 'learn the software' thread. The software is essentially like any other EQ and x-over. If you know how to use a crossover, slopes, and EQ you don't need any special instructions for the bit one. If you start one of those threads you're just going to be linked to threads on how to tune. You're better off just searching for threads on choosing the right crossovers and slopes. As for EQ work, the 'cmusic's guide to tuning' or whatever it's titled will do the same. If you have software explicit questions to ask, knock yourself out. I'll be happy to answer what I can. But, just be aware that the answers you'd seek (since you just said yourself it's basic questions) are already all over this site. 

Congrats on the bit one. Your music should be breathing new life now. The level of detail of this over the h701 is truly awesome.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> *so the B1 is kind of floating around on my floor pan until I make sure all the electronics are correctly wired etc. Well, the power, ground and memory wires keep coming loose. I have had to stop and reinsert them three times now. Each time trying my best to screw then down tight.
> 
> Anyone else had this problem?*
> Otherwise, and beyond learning the software....she sounds pretty darn good out of the box!


My friend please tell me you have the unit mount or secured somehow to the floor pan and not just laying in there. Your not letting your $700.00 processor just slide around are?:mean::worried:

Well many units use these connectors and I would have to agree they don't hold the wires super tight, but tight enough if the unit is secured in place. Never had one come out unless I pulled on it or the unit moved.


----------



## It_Hertz

you might want to recheck how you have your wires inserted into the mounts. mine are in strong enough I could probably hold my B1 by those wires alone.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> My friend please tell me you have the unit mount or secured somehow to the floor pan and not just laying in there. Your not letting your $700.00 processor just slide around are?:mean::worried:
> 
> Well many units use these connectors and I would have to agree they don't hold the wires super tight, but tight enough if the unit is secured in place. Never had one come out unless I pulled on it or the unit moved.


Yep she is slippin and sliding. In a manner of speaking. She is not mounted at all. But I wanted to connect everything and just make sure all the electronics and etc for my first build were all correct, which they are. Tomorrow is for mounting and custom cutting wire lengths, etc. 

I really did not want to mount the Bit One yet, as it is going under my rear seat. I have no room left on the rear amp wall. Plus, under the rear seat, I can just lift the seat up (the bottom lifts up, and the back rest stays stationary) and expose her if I need to do anything. Not that I would need to do this because the USB connection is up front.

Anyway. Once it was connected...there is a BUNDLE of "too long" speaker wires floating around. Just moving the speaker wires and brushing up against the B1 wires would push them out. And trust me...after the third time, I am tightening them so much it worries me!

The first time, yes...too loose. Second time, I tightened them down pretty good...but they came out again. I think they are good now. But I still have to disconnect then to do the final mount.

I dont think mine are so well tightened that I could dangle the B1 by those wires...but when mounted and free from anything..wires, etc...she will be okay. I just wish the TINY screws were big enough to use a larger screw driver.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Oh and one more thing...I am not driving around with it unmounted!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> As for starting a 'learn the software' thread. The software is essentially like any other EQ and x-over. If you know how to use a crossover, slopes, and EQ you don't need any special instructions for the bit one.


Since I know zero about it...you are probably correct. I guess I will just read more.....

My biggest problem is that when I select any given speaker...there is a blue line and a red line. I dont know what they are....or represent. I have not made my way through the owners manual to see if it details to that level. 

I suppose I will just have to be (yet even more) patient and take my time learning exactly what the lines mean. Obviously you can select one, more or all of your drivers to see the virtual crossover points you wish to tune to...or at least that is what I think they are for. But for three speakers per side..I see six lines. Three red and three blue. I adjust the controls and the blue line moves. I think one is the electrical signal and one is the eq signal.

Combine that with me sitting there with a 350 page owners manual ( I have a tabbed three ring binder with the owners manual for each piece of equipment) and I have all the factory specs for each speaker....I am trying to apply the specs to these lines..and adjust to an optimum setting for each driver.

Or at least that is where I think I am supposed to start. Thank goodness she sounds good (to me) out of the box. It will make learning, a less anxious task.

*I do not yet understand, and am not necessarily asking for help on:*

1. Inverse phasing. I have read some scientific things on this...but as far as the ear hears...I hear some difference.

2. The F slopes......I have no clue. Lots of reading to do here.

3. How to work with the Bit One and the built in controls of my amp. I know the Bit One allows me to send a precise set of frequencies (and other signal information) to each individual driver...which is mega cool in my mind...but I also dont want to be canceling out that control with something on the amp before it hits the speaker.

4. Under the EXT tab/"card" (the second tab) on the software...I have yet to be able to do anything with it. It is as if the entire panel of controls is intangible. I am assuming this is because I have zero external sources connected to the B1 per my original set up, therefore there is no need for this tab. Owners manual calls this a "card."

5. I attempted to use the eq wizard. I was clueless.

6. I still get confused about HI, LO Pass and Bandpass. Yes I do know what they do in general. Sometimes I just have to let it sink it for a minute...then make my decision on what to do.

7. Linkwitz and Butterworth- TON of information out there on them....just need to read and understand.

Now I know some of this can be learned directly from the Owners Manual...so have no fear...I am getting there. Just dont hate me because I am the guy who purchased a product that is over my head. I am pretty nimble in learning, but I know to really squeeze the juice out of this processor, you have to have years of knowledge. At some point it will be good enough for me and one of you will come along and say...."Dude this thing sounds like ****...no wonder..your settings are all fuked up!" At which point I will just crawl under a rock!

I will try not to ask too many questions. Hell I am just proud it sounds decent now. One year to research and collect equipment, 88 hours of build time (not done yet) over 25 actual work days, spanning 48 calendar days with virtually no major pitfalls. Not bad for a first timer if I do say so myself.


----------



## linuxpro

I just got my Bit One today. Awesome! 

I'm reading through the manual now and preparing for my install, which will include the McIntosh 6-channel amp, the Audison BitOne and Hertz Audio 3-way front stage (Space 8 mids, HL70 mids, and HT25 tweets). It should sound really freakin' good I hope.


----------



## Buzzman

linuxpro said:


> I just got my Bit One today. Awesome!
> 
> I'm reading through the manual now and preparing for my install, which will include the McIntosh 6-channel amp, the Audison BitOne and Hertz Audio 3-way front stage (Space 8 mids, HL70 mids, and HT25 tweets). It should sound really freakin' good I hope.


Congrats! And, yes, it "should sound really freakin' good."  You have assembled some excellent components, and assuming proper install and attention to resonance control, etc., you should be in great shape.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well I finished my system today...including replacing the interior trim. So I am mega happy about the project concluding. But it is bittersweet at the moment, because I have ran into what I think is a major issue with the Bit One. But before I go and blame the Bit One, I wanted to vent a little here.....and see what you guys think. It is late on a Sunday night, or else I would call Audison.

If anyone has Larrys phone number, please PM me.

Here is the symptom:

1. With no music coming from my HU, my speakers....all five of them, subwoofer included, are emitting a pecking sound that I canot otherwise describe except to call it Morse Code. Beep beeeep beeep beeep. It is not ultra high pitched. 

I first heard it the very first day I finished my wiring, but it was very low and I thought it was a part of some weird song I was listening to....

I listened to my system most of the day today with no sign of this noise.

So I put my interior back in the truck and finally sat down to enjoy the fruit of my labor with zero on my "to do list".

I cranked up a sog or two and kept hearing this beeping noise. Finally I turned all the music off and there it was...plain as day. More about the symptom.

1. It increases and decreases with the Master Volume knob on the DRC.
2. If the only two RCAs going from HU to B1 are unplugged it disappears.
3. If I use my iPod as a HU and plug into each individual amp, one at a time to "bench test" it....they produce the music with no beeping.
4. If the DRC link (black cable) is unplugged, the noise disappears.
5. If the HU is idle (no input source selected) but "powered" on, the beeping is present.
6. If I plug in my laptop via USB (and therefore the DRC is disconnected by the woftware) the noise disappears.
7. The very moment I "finalize" the Bit One with the software and close down the Bit One software the noise re-appears. Coincidentally, this when the DRC is "reconnected" to the system.

All of the above lead me to believe I have an issue with the DRC.

Troubleshooting I will do next:

1. Completly uninstall the Bit One; software off my laptop...hard reset of the Bit One (if possible)...reinstall everything.

2. Check the DRC cable to make sure it is not damaged.

3. Call Audison.


So.....sorry for the novel....but after almost 30 days and over 100 hours or install time...I am ready to kick back and relax with some tunes! Not to be tonight! 

I am frustrated.

Comments? Thoughts....? Every heard of this beeping noise?


----------



## pyropoptrt

If the noise goes away when you unplug the controller, I would suspect the controller is to blame


----------



## ErinH

does your bit one have a green sticker on the box that says 'new'?

the morse code you're describing is a complaint I've heard from someone else who said it sounded like a digital beeping caused only when the DRC is present. That was an 'old' unit. Believe his problem is gone on the 'new' unit.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> does your bit one have a green sticker on the box that says 'new'?
> 
> the morse code you're describing is a complaint I've heard from someone else who said it sounded like a digital beeping caused only when the DRC is present. That was an 'old' unit. Believe his problem is gone on the 'new' unit.


You mean the unit itself? Let me go check.

I just checked. There are only two stickers on its bottom side. One is the white sticker with serial numbers and the other is a small gold oval shaped sticker saying "quality control passed".

Maybe I did get an older unit. When I ordered it, there was an unexpected 3 week delay around the time the recall was happening so i thought mine was a new unit by that fact.

I will call Audison.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> You mean the unit itself? Let me go check.
> 
> I just checked. There are only two stickers on its bottom side. One is the white sticker with serial numbers and the other is a small gold oval shaped sticker saying "quality control passed".
> 
> Maybe I did get an older unit. When I ordered it, there was an unexpected 3 week delay around the time the recall was happening so i thought mine was a new unit by that fact.
> 
> I will call Audison.


Whether you have an "old" unit or a "new" unit should not be an issue so long as you have the updated software and firmware. Mine was supposed to be "new" but it did not have the current software and firmware. When you connect the USB cable to to your lap top and turn on the program, it gives you a read out stating which firmware is installed. If you have the current firmware, it will say 1.0.7.1. The current software is 1.3. Let us know what you see.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> When you connect the USB cable to to your lap top and turn on the program, it gives you a read out stating which firmware is installed. If you have the current firmware, it will say 1.0.7.1. The current software is 1.3. Let us know what you see.


I reset everything I know how to reset....here is a screen shot.

I only have the 1.0.7.0 firmware, but I do have the 1.3 software. I also checked my bnox and it DOES have a simple green sticker on it. No text that says "new" or anything.

Going to check out how to get a firmware upgrade now.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am browsing the website now. Found the firmware upgrade.

Did anyone notice the following:

File: DRC Upgrade V1_04.zip => DRC software upgrade (aggiornamento)

I did not know the DRC has a software version. I wonder how I check that? I will read the file that comes with the downloads. I downloaded both.


----------



## quality_sound

That's a beautiful interface.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am browsing the website now. Found the firmware upgrade.
> 
> Did anyone notice the following:
> 
> File: DRC Upgrade V1_04.zip => DRC software upgrade (aggiornamento)
> 
> I did not know the DRC has a software version. I wonder how I check that? I will read the file that comes with the downloads. I downloaded both.


It's not that the DRC has a software version, but that there is separate software to optimize its communication with the main unit. You have everything you need to get your unit current. Good luck with the execution. 

By the way, I noticed from the image you uploaded that you have the DSP settings based on the center listening position. Have you made settings based on the driver's seat position? You can do both and store them so that you can have the choice depending on whether someone is in the car with you or not.


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am frustrated.
> 
> Comments? Thoughts....? Every heard of this beeping noise?


I used to have that DRC noise (*it is the DRC*, no doubt) also at the very beginning of my installation when I also got the issue of the input saturation. Once that input saturation issue was "resolved" the DRC noise went away the few times that I plugged it back again. 

Because I don't use the DRC for anything because I want to keep the OEM volume control -I rather use a PC for any bit one changes- I don't know if the noise is gone permanently or it was just for temporarily. There was just one sticker at the bottom of my bit one...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> It's not that the DRC has a software version, but that there is separate software to optimize its communication with the main unit. You have everything you need to get your unit current. Good luck with the execution.
> 
> By the way, I noticed from the image you uploaded that you have the DSP settings based on the center listening position. Have you made settings based on the driver's seat position? You can do both and store them so that you can have the choice depending on whether someone is in the car with you or not.


That screen shot was a fresh reboot and restore of factory settings. The only thing I did was select the center listening position and then thought to myself...hmmm I am going to post a screen shot.

Funny you would notice that...lol

Okay....so I have everything I need....and here I go wit a complete uninstall of all software...and upgrades to firmware and DRC software. I have the owners manual or "guide" on my screen.....I will follow it precisely.

I will report back in about one hour.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

OKay.....

Firmware upgraded to 1.0.7.1
DRC software upgraded to 1.04.


Issue is still VERY present.

As a matter of fact....when my entire truck is shut off, and the DRC and B1 are still in the "soft turn off" process (i.e., when everything is really quite) you can hear it like its a damned video game pinging....its LOUD.


Like I said last night....my shipping box does have the green sticker. Now I have all the upgrades....and I have issues.

Time to call Larry.

Anyone have his number? PM me soon please.


----------



## braves6117

Damn, I was hoping for the best...Welcome to car audio! lol


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Damn, I was hoping for the best...Welcome to car audio! lol


Yep.


----------



## quality_sound

does it also make noise with a laptop plugged in via USB?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> does it also make noise with a laptop plugged in via USB?


I checked that. The answer is no. As soon as the laptop is is plugged in and takes control of the B1 the noise disappears and the sound from the speakers is beautiful. 

I think I have a defective DRC.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Technic said:


> I used to have that DRC noise (*it is the DRC*, no doubt) also at the very beginning of my installation when I also got the issue of the input saturation. Once that input saturation issue was "resolved" the DRC noise went away the few times that I plugged it back again.
> 
> Because I don't use the DRC for anything because I want to keep the OEM volume control -I rather use a PC for any bit one changes- I don't know if the noise is gone permanently or it was just for temporarily. There was just one sticker at the bottom of my bit one...



How do you run the B1 without the DRC? My B1 will not even power up without the DRC.


----------



## ErinH

how do you have the turn on/power wired? 
Picture would be easiest.


Mine does just fine w/o the DRC. I leave it disconnected.


----------



## pyropoptrt

pyropoptrt said:


> If the noise goes away when you unplug the controller, I would suspect the controller is to blame


let me highlight this post again. Also, the controller is bypassed when the laptop is plugged in; thus why you have no noise when your laptop is plugged in.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> I checked that. The answer is no. As soon as the laptop is is plugged in and takes control of the B1 the noise disappears and the sound from the speakers is beautiful.
> 
> I think I have a defective DRC.


No, some of the "new" units have this problem. I hear they're working on a fix.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

pyropoptrt said:


> let me highlight this post again. Also, the controller is bypassed when the laptop is plugged in; thus why you have no noise when your laptop is plugged in.


I realize this....hence the reason I say that exact thing in my first post on the issue. Someone asked me a question regarding it so I answered.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> how do you have the turn on/power wired?
> Picture would be easiest.
> 
> 
> Mine does just fine w/o the DRC. I leave it disconnected.


By disconnected, I was going solely on the premises of just hitting the power knob on the DRC. Well of course that will turn it off....blonde moment.

I disconnected the DRC AC-Link cable and it does indeed work just fine.

Not only that, but the digital beeping goes away....and she sounds sweet to my ears. I am sure tweaking is needed.

So (for the fourth time) I feel pretty certain it is the DRC.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Ok I need to get mine up and running on my test bench in the next couple of days to make sure I don't have any issue. The DRC will be my volume control as I will be running a digital singal into the Bit 1. Don't need that beeping noise. Also the make sure my firmware is correct. I just got mine last week so it should be an update unit. The software is correct, one less worry. No green sticker here either, maybe because its a new unit?


----------



## CraigE

Got mine last week and installed it.
Latest soft/firmware.
No green sticker, no noise here.
And I thought the system sounded good with the 3Sixty.2.
The B1 gives a much smoother, natural sound.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Allegedly, as stated here and on other websites I frequent, the green sticker means a "new" unit. But mine has the green sticker, but did not have the 1.0.7.1 firmware upgrade.

I have too much work to do today to called Audison or my dealer (or be here) but I will do so ASAP and report back...


----------



## ErinH

FWIW, mine had a green sticker but not 1.0.7.1 firmware. It had 1.0.7.0 FW. I had to upgrade myself.


----------



## pyropoptrt

Here-I-Come said:


> Ok I need to get mine up and running on my test bench in the next couple of days to make sure I don't have any issue. The DRC will be my volume control as I will be running a digital singal into the Bit 1. Don't need that beeping noise. Also the make sure my firmware is correct. I just got mine last week so it should be an update unit. The software is correct, one less worry. No green sticker here either, maybe because its a new unit?


if you are using the digital input and using the drc as your volume control, you'll have the beeping noise more than likely.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

While I am resolving the above issues, I have another question.

During the initial set up of the B1 unit, there is a point where you have to insert the installation disc with test signals to the HU and then follow the instructions. One instruction is to turn the volume up as high as possible without distortion. 

That all sounds fine and good, but with the B1 not yet set up I am getting no sound from the speakers whatsoever. So should I have turned the volume knob to the max or 3/4 or what?

How did you do it?


----------



## autofile

Ideally You would use an oscilloscope to test your headunits output and see at what point, if any, it clips. Then set the volume just below that.



ARCuhTEK said:


> While I am resolving the above issues, I have another question.
> 
> During the initial set up of the B1 unit, there is a point where you have to insert the installation disc with test signals to the HU and then follow the instructions. One instruction is to turn the volume up as high as possible without distortion.
> 
> That all sounds fine and good, but with the B1 not yet set up I am getting no sound from the speakers whatsoever. So should I have turned the volume knob to the max or 3/4 or what?
> 
> How did you do it?


----------



## ErinH

^ Yep.

Or, you can go by the standard '3/4 max volume' rule that so many use when setting amp gains via DMM.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

A local DIYMA member (abotu 20 mins from me) has offered to help me with an oscilloscope. I have just been consumed with trying to get the interior back in the truck.

Now that this is done, I can pull him in as a resource. But of course...the silly digital beeping is preventing me from doing this...at least emotionally.

So no one has Larrys number? I will call my dealer tomorrow.


----------



## CraigE

PM sent


----------



## t3sn4f2

You can always do a free Rightmark Audio Analyzer run into any sound card input. Just burn the test racks onto a CD and send the high level into the bit one at different source volume settings. Plug the output from the bit one into the input of the sound card and set the output level from the bit one just strong enough to be able to do the test properly. The quality of the sound card input does not really matter since all you are looking for is severe distortion (clipping), both of which will show up accurately on the test as long as you don't clip the bit one or sound card inputs.

RightMark Audio Analyzer. Products. Audio Rightmark

If your sound card input are good quality then you can even get a FR that accurately represents your head units FR.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> A local DIYMA member (abotu 20 mins from me) has offered to help me with an oscilloscope. I have just been consumed with trying to get the interior back in the truck.
> 
> Now that this is done, I can pull him in as a resource. But of course...the silly digital beeping is preventing me from doing this...at least emotionally.
> 
> So no one has Larrys number? I will call my dealer tomorrow.


Sorry to hear you are having this problem. Larry's number sent to you via PM. 

Till you speak with him, here is something to investigate. Based on your post above about setting the output levels on your head unit, is it possible that you have a clipping problem (either a clipped signal from the head unit, or the output stage of the Bit One)? One way to check is to engage the PC and when your screen is up click on the "Output Levels" tab. You can monitor each channel and see whether the clipping light at the top comes on in any instance. If it does, you will either have to lower the output levels, or the input signal from the head unit.


----------



## denali804

disconnect the drc cable from the bitone and then remove the rca's(DONT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE A PIONEER DECK) from the bitones input and let me know if you still have the noise. Also where is your bitone's ground connected to?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> Sorry to hear you are having this problem. Larry's number sent to you via PM.
> 
> Till you speak with him, here is something to investigate. Based on your post above about setting the output levels on your head unit, is it possible that you have a clipping problem (either a clipped signal from the head unit, or the output stage of the Bit One)? One way to check is to engage the PC and when your screen is up click on the "Output Levels" tab. You can monitor each channel and see whether the clipping light at the top comes on in any instance. If it does, you will either have to lower the output levels, or the input signal from the head unit.


I do need to do this for sure. But the digital beeping is occurring even with the HU volume way down. Actually it is even occurring when the HU is off (while the B1 is in its soft turn off mode.).

Thank you to all who sent Larrys number.


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> I do need to do this for sure. But the digital beeping is occurring even with the HU volume way down. Actually it is even occurring when the HU is off (while the B1 is in its soft turn off mode.).
> 
> Thank you to all who sent Larrys number.




Does the noise go away as soon as the head unit is switched on??? I think that you would have the data noises if you disconnected the inputs to the bitone and disconnected the drc cable into the unit. I don't agree with it but I think that if the unit notices no signal at the rca inputs (if using them) you will get the data noises. Where is your bitone grounded at? Also how are your turn on's connected? Which wires do you have connected to your molex connectors?


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

ARCuhTEK said:


> I do need to do this for sure. But the digital beeping is occurring even with the HU volume way down. Actually it is even occurring when the HU is off (while the B1 is in its soft turn off mode.).
> 
> Thank you to all who sent Larrys number.




Kevin,


check your pm as I can help shed some light on this problem for you..


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> How do you run the B1 without the DRC? My B1 will not even power up without the DRC.


The DRC is only required if you are using the Toslink input; I'm using the OEM remote signal to turn on the bit one and its Remote Out to turn on my PDX amps.

It seems to me that, after reading some of the suggestions of this issue in here, that this noise could be related to input level clipping and that the bit one "remember" that there was a clipping _once_ and not necessarily that the input is clipping at that precise moment of the DRC noise. 

That could explain your DRC noise even when there's no volume in your system.

That's what happened in my case, as the clipping/saturation was done at the very first calibration trial right after installation and that DRC noise was there regardless of the volume level and several failed calibrations attempts from there on until Larry help me a couple of days later in setting the right input levels in this unit for my particular high output OEM amp. 

I would like to see an updated bit one with a physical clipping indicator in the chassis itself (as the Cleansweep and the 3SIXTY use, they must know something that Audison does not), that would help a lot in calibrating this unit. The software clipping indicator did not work for me when I was calibrating my unit when the sliders were all set all the way up by default, and my OEM HU do not have any volume level indicator to guide in input level. Only when I started moving those output level sliders as per Larry suggestions _then_ the clipping indicators started showing up the saturation...


----------



## ErinH

Wanna hear something funny?

I've had two of these bit ones now. The first one didn't give me morse code. The new one does. 
I didn't think to try it until I got curious to see if my new one would do it, too. So, archutekt, you're not alone. 

Audison - 2. Erin - 0.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Wanna hear something funny?
> 
> I've had two of these bit ones now. The first one didn't give me morse code. The new one does.
> I didn't think to try it until I got curious to see if my new one would do it, too. So, archutekt, you're not alone.
> 
> Audison - 2. Erin - 0.


Does the code sound like this?

.... .- / .... .- / .... .- / -.-- --- ..- / ... ..- -.-. -.- . .-. --..-- / -.-- --- ..- / -... ..- -.-- / --- ..- .-. / ..- -. .-. . ..-. .. -. . -.. / .--. .-. --- -.. ..- -.-. -


----------



## ErinH

LMFAO! Man, I just spit up water on the keyboard!

Alright, getting back to business...
I can't recall exactly. I remember it sounding like ticking/beeping in a pattern. first thing I thought was 'morse code'.


----------



## guitarsail

Well played chad...and Erin, I think I'll stick with my newly acquired 700 for now until you get the problems worked out for Audison ANd when you coming up to show off those new subs...


----------



## chad

.-.. --- .-.. / -.-. .... .- -.. ... / .- / .... .- -- / .-. .- -.. .. --- / --. . . -.- / .... . / -.- -. --- .-- ... / -.-. --- -.. . / --... ...-- / -.. . / -.-. .... .- -..


----------



## ErinH

I might be up there this weekend, pal. I need to talk to Jason and see if he's alright with that.


----------



## guitarsail

Well if you come this weekend (like 4 days) I'm working 18 hours Saturday. So...how bout the next weekend? not that you need my help...but I wanna!


----------



## linuxpro

If you find a solution to the issue, please share it with the whole board rather than PM'ing it to people. There are others who will install the Bit One, who might have this problem, and if the resolution is publicly shared, then it can be found on google.

I still haven't got my Bit One installed yet. I'm in the process of doing an entire speaker/amp/BitOne install, so it will be a few more weeks. I'm so impatient!!


----------



## Buzzman

Technic said:


> The DRC is only required if you are using the Toslink input; I'm using the OEM remote signal to turn on the bit one and its Remote Out to turn on my PDX amps.
> 
> It seems to me that, after reading some of the suggestions of this issue in here, that this noise could be related to input level clipping and that the bit one "remember" that there was a clipping _once_ and not necessarily that the input is clipping at that precise moment of the DRC noise.
> 
> That could explain your DRC noise even when there's no volume in your system.
> 
> That's what happened in my case, as the clipping/saturation was done at the very first calibration trial right after installation and that DRC noise was there regardless of the volume level and several failed calibrations attempts from there on until Larry help me a couple of days later in setting the right input levels in this unit for my particular high output OEM amp.
> 
> I would like to see an updated bit one with a physical clipping indicator in the chassis itself (as the Cleansweep and the 3SIXTY use, they must know something that Audison does not), that would help a lot in calibrating this unit. The software clipping indicator did not work for me when I was calibrating my unit when the sliders were all set all the way up by default, and my OEM HU do not have any volume level indicator to guide in input level. Only when I started moving those output level sliders as per Larry suggestions _then_ the clipping indicators started showing up the saturation...


That's what I thought also (as noted above). As a possible cause, it's simple to identify and to eliminate. I haven't had any problems in my set-up, and I am enjoying a truly fabulous piece of equipment.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Okay Let me share some light ( I will do this sans Morse Code so everyone besides Chad can dig it).

1. I have not yet spoken to Larry or Audison or my dealer. I have been very busy with work (thankfully) and have only fleeting moments to address thi issue, but I AM anxious.

2. I do think the suggestions about input level clipping are "getting warmer" on the issue. Here is why:

_ a. My HU has a volume range of 0 to 40. I blindly set the volume at 36 when doing the first set up of the B1. There was no noise so with my lack of expereince I was not sure what the "right thing to do" was at the moment._

_b. I had to totally uninstalled the software and upgrade the firmware yesterday as you know. Well, I made the mistake of setting the HU input volume at 40!! Dont scream at me...........the truth is, with the original input level at 36 I was having no issues (other than morse code) with seemingly lots of head room. No distortion with Master Volume very high. I was very very happy. I now know that this may be cause clipping, but to my ears it is not obvious in the music playback "yet."_

*This is interesting....read closely*

_c. I noticed that when the HU volume is not tweaked...touched or otherwise messed with.....AND I change the volume level on the DRC....the beeping noise goes from its regular pattern to a sudden constant strings of uninterrupted beeps (read as: much faster beeping and continuous with only slight evidence of pause.....nanoseconds). As soon as I let go of the DRC....the normal pattern returns. Does this help with the suggestion of the issue being in the HU input volume/clipping issue?_

3. I currently have the DRC unplugged. No distortion.....no beeping....crystal clear. But I want more control and the issue needs resolving so I cannot just ignore the issue by leaving it unplugged.

4. Someone asked me if the noise goes away when I turn the HU on.....NO. There are only two ways to get rid of the beeping Morse Code noises.

_a. Disconnect the DRC completely.
b. Disconnect the RCS inputs from the HU._

5. I am also dealing with a TERRIBLE alternator whine in the system right now (but that is a different issue). I have about 5 things to check on that issue shortly including picofuses..... ppfffttttttttt 

6. I think tonight I will re-calibrate the Bit One with a Hu input volume of 30. Just to see if it helps. I know I need other equipment and better means to accomplish this feat (as per this thread) but just to satisfy my curiosity, I am going to do this (plus it can be done quickly).

7. For the record the Morse Code is being emitted at ALL speakers including the sub.

8. The Morse Code DOES get louder if the DRC volume is increased.

Erin- Is your Morse Code constant?


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> 5. I am also dealing with a TERRIBLE alternator whine in the system right now (but that is a different issue). I have about 5 things to check on that issue shortly including picofuses..... ppfffttttttttt
> 
> Erin- Is your Morse Code constant?


Alt whine… welcome to my world. I can’t say it’s the bit one. I won’t say it is just yet. I’ve got to isolate it again like I did my last one. Maybe these suckers are just bringing the whine out to a more noticeable level. Who knows. I’m sick of dealing with it, though.

The beeping I get isn’t constant, iirc. I only plugged it in long enough to see if I had the same issue you’re describing and do. 

Maybe this is all user error. Maybe not.


----------



## quality_sound

I'll bet the whine and "morse code" are related and are internal on the BitOne. Call it a hunch. 2 cars with the EXACT same problems and they only share one piece of equipment. Too much for a coincidence.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here's a pic of the DRC internals if anyone wants to use it to troubleshoot.



























:laugh:


----------



## capnxtreme

quality_sound said:


> I'll bet the whine and "morse code" are related and are internal on the BitOne. Call it a hunch. 2 cars with the EXACT same problems and they only share one piece of equipment. Too much for a coincidence.


No ****.

Sorry you guys are having so much grief with this piece.

There is no way I would buy one, now.


----------



## ErinH

I’m holding tight to mine. Once I get through these issues there’s no way I’d give it up for anything else currently available. It does everything I need it to do … and some things I don’t want it to do. 

Hopefully it's just part of the growing pain.


----------



## capnxtreme

Yeah I understand. You're obviously not under any illusions about the fact that it's a bleeding-edge product, and willing to work through it.

But, DAMN it sounds like a PITMFA.


----------



## chad

The beeping is data from the DRC to the unit (DRC is remote right?) Is there any audio gong that DRC cable, if not is any audio bundled with the DRC cable?


----------



## ErinH

Not in my case.


----------



## chad

Not in my case what king of elaboration? Not when the DRC is disconnected? Wires are not close? no audio int he DRC cable? throw me a bone here.


----------



## ErinH

there is no audio bundled with the DRC cable. 

I don’t know if the DRC passes audio… it asks as a source select and volume control. Essentially like the c701 for the h701.


----------



## chad

Does the DRC derive power from the bitone or out of the dash somewhere?


----------



## pyropoptrt

It derives its power from the bitone iirc


----------



## ErinH

^ yep. but you can also use it to power on/off the bit one.


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> No ****.
> 
> Sorry you guys are having so much grief with this piece.
> 
> There is no way I would buy one, now.


I am not having ANY problems with mine. Then again, I didn't install it myself.


----------



## ErinH

I suppose that was a cheap shot? 

I guess audison recalled all their initial units for no reason, then?


----------



## pyropoptrt

Buzzman said:


> I am not having ANY problems with mine. Then again, I didn't install it myself.


Are you using digital in? Everyone that has reported the morse code noise is using the digital in and thusly having to use the drc for volume control.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> Okay Let me share some light ( I will do this sans Morse Code so everyone besides Chad can dig it).
> 
> 1. I have not yet spoken to Larry or Audison or my dealer. I have been very busy with work (thankfully) and have only fleeting moments to address thi issue, but I AM anxious.
> 
> 2. I do think the suggestions about input level clipping are "getting warmer" on the issue. Here is why:
> 
> _ a. My HU has a volume range of 0 to 40. I blindly set the volume at 36 when doing the first set up of the B1. There was no noise so with my lack of expereince I was not sure what the "right thing to do" was at the moment._
> 
> _b. I had to totally uninstalled the software and upgrade the firmware yesterday as you know. Well, I made the mistake of setting the HU input volume at 40!! Dont scream at me...........the truth is, with the original input level at 36 I was having no issues (other than morse code) with seemingly lots of head room. No distortion with Master Volume very high. I was very very happy. I now know that this may be cause clipping, but to my ears it is not obvious in the music playback "yet."_
> 
> *This is interesting....read closely*
> 
> _c. I noticed that when the HU volume is not tweaked...touched or otherwise messed with.....AND I change the volume level on the DRC....the beeping noise goes from its regular pattern to a sudden constant strings of uninterrupted beeps (read as: much faster beeping and continuous with only slight evidence of pause.....nanoseconds). As soon as I let go of the DRC....the normal pattern returns. Does this help with the suggestion of the issue being in the HU input volume/clipping issue?_
> 
> 3. I currently have the DRC unplugged. No distortion.....no beeping....crystal clear. But I want more control and the issue needs resolving so I cannot just ignore the issue by leaving it unplugged.
> 
> 4. Someone asked me if the noise goes away when I turn the HU on.....NO. There are only two ways to get rid of the beeping Morse Code noises.
> 
> _a. Disconnect the DRC completely.
> b. Disconnect the RCS inputs from the HU._
> 
> 5. I am also dealing with a TERRIBLE alternator whine in the system right now (but that is a different issue). I have about 5 things to check on that issue shortly including picofuses..... ppfffttttttttt
> 
> 6. I think tonight I will re-calibrate the Bit One with a Hu input volume of 30. Just to see if it helps. I know I need other equipment and better means to accomplish this feat (as per this thread) but just to satisfy my curiosity, I am going to do this (plus it can be done quickly).
> 
> 7. For the record the Morse Code is being emitted at ALL speakers including the sub.
> 
> 8. The Morse Code DOES get louder if the DRC volume is increased.
> 
> Erin- Is your Morse Code constant?



Based on what you have stated, I would be shocked if the "morse code" noise you are experiencing isn't clipping related. When you are ready to recalibrate the Bit One, make sure that when you have the PC engaged, you click on the "Config" tab on the screen, then click on "I/O Wizard" and then follow the set up instructions again. Definitely keep your head unit volume level between 30 and 32. And, I again recommend that you leave the head unit volume setting alone and use the DRC controller as your volume control after the Bit One has completed its settings.

Regarding alternator whine, it is most likely due to a ground problem with one or more of the components in your signal path. It could be isolated to the Bit One, or it could be the amp, the head unit, etc. You will have to go through the process of elimination and isolate the culprit. Sometimes the solution could be as simple as rerouting your RCA cables which might be picking up radiated noise. But, don't give up. The virtues of the Bit One are worth the effort of overcoming these issues, which you could have with any component you insert in your system.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> I suppose that was a cheap shot?
> 
> I guess audison recalled all their initial units for no reason, then?


No, it wasn't a cheap shot. My point is that it appears to me that the issues being discussed here are install related, and not Bit One related. Yes, they recalled the product because they identified problems, and potential problems, and those issues have been properly addressed. But now you have people casting doubt about the merits of the product when I and many others are not having problems when the item (with the latest software and firmware) is properly installed and set up.


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

pyropoptrt said:


> Are you using digital in? Everyone that has reported the morse code noise is using the digital in and thusly having to use the drc for volume control.



Not true......


----------



## Buzzman

pyropoptrt said:


> Are you using digital in? Everyone that has reported the morse code noise is using the digital in and thusly having to use the drc for volume control.


I am not presently using the digital output of my DRZ9255. But, I don't know what you mean by "everyone" because, unless I misread his posts on the set-up, Archutek, who is the one that seems to be having the issue presently, is also using analog out to the Bit One. This is what he said a week ago when he began his install: _"In my case, my Pioneer AVIC-D3 has multiple input sources, so my route is to connect my iPod, Sirius and hands free bluetooth set up through the D3 and *use only one set of RCAs (front left and front right) to send a signal to the Bit One*."_ Perhaps he can clarify that.


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

quality_sound said:


> I'll bet the whine and "morse code" are related and are internal on the BitOne. Call it a hunch. 2 cars with the EXACT same problems and they only share one piece of equipment. Too much for a coincidence.



Paul,

Answer your phone... There is more to a puzzle than just the way the pieces are cut.


----------



## pyropoptrt

Insane01VWPassat said:


> Not true......


I stand corrected. I thought it was only with those using the digital input.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well I am the least knowledgable of those posting here...I am willing to bet. But I will say this:

1. I do not YET think the alt. whine and the B1 morse code are related. For one (and this may not matter) the morse codes increases with volume control.....the whine does not. I started to delete the comment abotu alt. whine in my post above because I figured I would get slammed about "searching" or "lots of info here" (which I have spent several hours reading). Let me just say I have done NOTHING to chase down the whine. I just heard it Sunday night and I probably need to make it to the weekend with it until I have true free time to get under the hood. Meanwhile, my HU was installed by a crappy azz installer and I have seen his work now that I have taken the HU out. The grounds are terrible (in the sense that they are "thrown together"). I can (and will) do better. This forums has given me no less than 5-10 ideas to hunt down. Like I said before...thats a different issue (to me).

2. I only get the alt. whine when the DRC is DISCONNECTED. I only get the digital Morse Code when the DRC is CONNECTED. Dont jump yet.....to me the digital beeping is too loud and annoying to hear the alt whine when the DRC is connected. I cannot confirm that both noises exist when the DRC is connected. My guess is yes. I just dont know.

3. Chad. The DRC, as far as I know, has nothing to do with the audio signal. It merely communicates master level volume control remotely as well as four eq presets. There is only one cable to the DRC from the B1.

I have to say ...problems or not. This little guy is a star player in my system. I am happy with it, even though it is giving me grief now. I have confidence it will be resolved. Dont slam the Bit One just yet....

Finally....remember the earlier discussion in this thread about audison wanting the Bit One to only be installed by authorized dealers? I was one of the people who did not want to heed to that requirement. Keep in mind....this install is my first true install EVER. I have no doubt I am slightly over my head. So please dont judge the equipment by the mfr. alone. It could be all me. I was VERY careful with my install, but I do have things like (all of my) RCA's sitting right on top of a 1/0 ga. power (and ground wire). Can you say alt. whine? See pic:










I did not PLAN it this way....I just ran out of room to route things any "smarter." My plan was to route the 1/0 ga. power and ground wires BEHIND the MDF amp board and penetrate through right under each distr. block. But I did not calculate for the wire to be so "not flexible". I have 3/4" airspace behind the board....sitting empty. The 1/0 would not make 2 turns in such a small distance. Anyway...I am off topic.


----------



## capnxtreme

Buzzman said:


> Yes, they recalled the product because they identified problems, and potential problems, and those issues have been properly addressed. But now you have people casting doubt about the merits of the product when I and many others are not having problems when the item (with the latest software and firmware) is properly installed and set up.


Let's not jump the gun here. The fact that you aren't experiencing issues isn't logically sufficient to claim that the issues have been "properly addressed." There is evidence in this thread that this is not the case, and that does indeed cast doubt about the merits of the product.

Folks were saying the exact same damn things before the first recall: "There cant b a problem cuz it werx 4 me!!111"

No one's trying to take the food out of anyone's mouth here. But expecting us to sweep the issues under the rug because yours works is laughably absurd.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am not taking anyone's side here.....but I DO have the latest software and firmware. My issues are not yet resolved. I will probably not have time to call Audison or Larry until Friday.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> 2. I only get the alt. whine when the DRC is DISCONNECTED. I only get the digital Morse Code when the DRC is CONNECTED. Dont jump yet.....to me the digital beeping is too loud and annoying to hear the alt whine when the DRC is connected. I cannot confirm that both noises exist when the DRC is connected. My guess is yes. I just dont know.



I'll check this myself and see if the same holds true.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Insane01VWPassat said:


> Paul,
> 
> Answer your phone... There is more to a puzzle than just the way the pieces are cut.


Seems like my man Passat knows something here.

The funny thing to me is, Ok the unit may or may not be having problems, but Audison is on top of their game with getting fixes out to take care of the problem. That in itself was enough for me to go ahead and buy it and I have never been a big fan of Audison.

Sh*t I've been hearing about problems with the H700 an H701 for years and have not seen Alpine do a recall to address the problems, but yet tons of the units was sold and many are still having problems. I say Kudos to Audison for being a stand up company and dealing with the end users issues. With like most new products there will be a learning curve, what to do and what not to do.

As I see it, the way things have been going with Audison and its supporting cast your issue will be resolve shortly. Just my .02. I'm just seating back and watching, listening and learning so I know what I have to do if my unit has any issues once I fire her up.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> just seating back and which, listening and learning so know what I have to do if my unit has any issues once I fire her up.


If there is ANY way to do a "quick" mock up of your system just to test this issue, I would do so. Obviously if you are starting from scratch, that will not be possible (or at least quick).


----------



## quality_sound

Insane01VWPassat said:


> Paul,
> 
> Answer your phone... There is more to a puzzle than just the way the pieces are cut.


I'm not allowed to have my phone in the bomb dump. Email.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> If there is ANY way to do a "quick" mock up of your system just to test this issue, I would do so. Obviously if you are starting from scratch, that will not be possible (or at least quick).


I will in a few days. Just awaiting another head unit to arrive.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> I'll check this myself and see if the same holds true.


Do you have the provision to test this soon? I have an idea.

Did not know if you had the remote mounted up and ready to rock.....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chad said:


> Do you have the provision to test this soon? I have an idea.
> 
> Did not know if you had the remote mounted up and ready to rock.....


I can CONFIRM: The alt. whine is present with or without the DRC connected.


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> Do you have the provision to test this soon? I have an idea.
> 
> Did not know if you had the remote mounted up and ready to rock.....


Yes, Chad. I'm actually outside testing things right now. Just got off the phone with a fellow at Audison who was probably the nicest tech I've ever dealt with. 

Just to make sure I wasn't throwing the headunit into clipping I used two different tones: 50hz and 1000hz.

1000hz @ 33/35:









1000hz @ 34/35:










50hz @ 33/35:









50hz @ 34/35:









So, the volume I set the bit one at initially was 24/35... well below the clipping point. 

It's amazing that one single click on the headunit volume makes that much of a difference. 

I'll be back after trying a couple other things.


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> Let's not jump the gun here. The fact that you aren't experiencing issues isn't logically sufficient to claim that the issues have been "properly addressed." There is evidence in this thread that this is not the case, and that does indeed cast doubt about the merits of the product.
> 
> Folks were saying the exact same damn things before the first recall: "There cant b a problem cuz it werx 4 me!!111"
> 
> No one's trying to take the food out of anyone's mouth here. But expecting us to sweep the issues under the rug because yours works is laughably absurd.


You gotta be kidding. Did you read what I wrote? I didn't say that because I was not experiencing problems, that the item was not subject to problems. What I said was that the recent issues being experienced by those posting *appear* to me to be install related, and not related to the Bit One. I KNOW that mine is installed and set up properly, and it works. Indeed, the subsequent posts to my post which drew your response *appear* to validate my point.


----------



## chad

I may give you a ring in a bit bikini.


----------



## ErinH

Good. I may call you first. 


I think I'm well on my way to resolving the issue and for the sake of any further argument, it's NOT install related. I've just verified that without a shadow of doubt.


----------



## capnxtreme

Buzzman said:


> You gotta be kidding. Did you read what I wrote? I didn't say that because I was not experiencing problems, that the item was not subject to problems. What I said was that the recent issues being experienced by those posting *appear* to me to be install related, and not related to the Bit One. I KNOW that mine is installed and set up properly, and it works. Indeed, the subsequent posts to my post which drew your response *appear* to validate my point.


Yes, I read what you wrote. Thanks for asking.



> Yes, they recalled the product because they identified problems, and potential problems, and those issues have been properly addressed.


Did you read what I wrote?



> Let's not jump the gun here.


Because you're still doing it, and I still don't see anything that supports your claim, other than the fact that yours works.


----------



## It_Hertz

Kevin,

there is a fix for the noise associated with your Bit1/DRC. If you have not contacted Fred yet, you can pm me or call and I will help you out.

as far as your Alt whine does not sound like it is something Directly related to the B1.


----------



## volker

bikinpunk said:


> Good. I may call you first.
> 
> 
> I think I'm well on my way to resolving the issue and for the sake of any further argument, it's NOT install related. I've just verified that without a shadow of doubt.


:snacks: :beerchug:


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

It_Hertz said:


> Kevin,
> 
> there is a fix for the noise associated with your Bit1/DRC. If you have not contacted Fred yet, you can pm me or call and I will help you out.
> 
> as far as your Alt whine does not sound like it is something Directly related to the B1.


Come on now guys, if there is a fix for the issue why can't you guy post it here so other can benefit from the info as well. I know I would love to know, in the case mine has the same issue.

Thanks for all the help in advance.


----------



## It_Hertz

The original problems were addressed, like then the new issues are limited to some NOT all Bit Ones. I have installed 2 and have a third one on order for another customer the two I have done have not had problems. but I do know a couple of people that have had similar issues the Kevin is having. and there is a way to fix it.


----------



## It_Hertz

If you bought your Bit1 Legitimately, the dealer you purchased it form should already be aware of what is needed to fix it. If you did not who is responsible for tech support to your install? Per Elettromedia requirement the Bit one should not be sold out the door... as they require specific tools to ensure proper set up. 

I am not trying to be a prick, but the simple fact is this is more proof as to why items like this should only be bought through Local authorized dealers.

Kevin, Erin anyone else currently having problems, PM me and I will help you out.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

It may seem like I am avoiding a couple of people who are offering to help. One I have spoken to via phone tonight, but the truth is I do not have much free time after work, and am limited to weekends, especially this week.

I have heard about the potential fix, and frankly I would rather send it back to my dealer and/or Audison. It is not because I do not believe that what I am being told.....it has more to do with the fact that this is an expensive piece of equipment and if it is only being seen in "3%" of the units....then I want to send mine in and take a risk of getting one of the clear and free 97% units.

As far as install goes, I believe with confidence I installed it correctly. I will admit that some of my intial settings may not be optimal, but folks I have barely even gotten past the original set up. I have had to upgrade firmware...test, test...listen test. Just to make sure I am hearing morse code.

Since I am not the only one having issues, at this point I will speak to Larry and unless he has more to convince me otherwise, I will request a RMA.

Erin, I know you are on your second unit....and frankly I didnt understand anything about your pictures....except the sine wave which was clipped. You said 24/35. What does that mean...24/35?


----------



## ErinH

Mark... I'm shooting you my phone #. Give me a call when you can.

- Erin


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> Erin, I know you are on your second unit....and frankly I didnt understand anything about your pictures....except the sine wave which was clipped. You said 24/35. What does that mean...24/35?


24/35 means '24' out of '35' on the volume knob. 

You can see in the pictures that once I hit 34 on the volume knob I get major clipping out of the headunit. Anything below is just fine. That's kind of crazy, too. I would've expected it to clip softly before going bad. But, it clips hard in one volume step. Craziness!


Kevin, if you can give me a call, please do. I'll shoot you my #. 

*not trying to be secretive, just easier to recommend things over the phone*


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> Yes, I read what you wrote. Thanks for asking.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you read what I wrote?
> 
> 
> 
> Because you're still doing it, and I still don't see anything that supports your claim, other than the fact that yours works.


Yeah I read what you wrote. And if anyone is "jumping the gun" it's you who seem so bent on attributing the the cause of the problems that some are experiencing to the component rather than the possibility that the issues could be related to install and user issues. So, again, I say, don't throw stones at the Bit One until ALL possible causes are explored. At the end of the day I just want these guys who are pulling their hair out trying to fix their issues to be as happy as I am.


----------



## nepl29

i hope i dont have any issues with my unit. suppose to be here by friday.


----------



## volker

So, the 'morse code' is clipping and the solution is a volume max setting 1 click before it clips ?!


----------



## chad

volker said:


> So, the 'morse code' is clipping and the solution is a volume max setting 1 click before it clips ?!


no.

^^ apparently that was too short of a response for DIYMA so I'll expand by saying that a mouse chewed thru my dryer hose thus I have temporarily duct-taped it and have set some traps in hopes to have it dead by morning, both cats have also been put on alert.


----------



## volker

chad said:


> no.
> 
> ^^ apparently that was too short of a response for DIYMA so I'll expand by saying that a mouse chewed thru my dryer hose thus I have temporarily duct-taped it and have set some traps in hopes to have it dead by morning, both cats have also been put on alert.


Oh, I had a batch of that stuff too... unfortunately, it went up in smoke....


----------



## chad

lol, it's being sussed out as we speak, bear with us for a bit.


----------



## ErinH




----------



## volker

No problem


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Maybe I dont get the humor or sarcasim (of which I LIKE both)...so if I am responding to a joke just tell me to stfu....

How could the morse code be clipping, when mine is emitting morse code when the HU is not even on....lol

Just sayin...


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


>


Is this some type of coded message? lol


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


>


Is there a hidden clue here?


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> Maybe I dont get the humor or sarcasim (of which I LIKE both)...so if I am responding to a joke just tell me to stfu....
> 
> How could the morse code be clipping, when mine is emitting morse code when the HU is not even on....lol
> 
> Just sayin...


That's why I said no 

It's data noise


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Now those two posts are funny....


----------



## cox-nox

so just read the 21 pages :worried:
is it still some bad issues with this unit ?
if not is it good dsp unit or ?
how is it sounding comparing to a ppi dcx ?


----------



## ErinH

cox-nox said:


> so just read the 21 pages :worried:
> is it still some bad issues with this unit ?
> if not is it good dsp unit or ?


No offense, man, but you didn't really read the thread if you're asking these questions...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> No offense, man, but you didn't really read the thread if you're asking these questions...


For real.....for real!


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

ARCuhTEK said:


> Is there a hidden clue here?


Kevin..... think closely about our conversation... then look at the picture... youll get it....


----------



## azngotskills

Insane01VWPassat said:


> Kevin..... think closely about our conversation... then look at the picture... youll get it....


Can I ask why you are being to vague regarding the problem? I see your posts insinuating that you know something but tell people to call, "you know", "wink wink", etc. If you know something, is there a reason why your not just saying it? Are we not "worthy" enough to be in the "know"? Just curious because I have seen you post this numerous times


----------



## Buzzman

cox-nox said:


> so just read the 21 pages :worried:
> is it still some bad issues with this unit ?
> if not is it good dsp unit or ?
> how is it sounding comparing to a ppi dcx ?


Check out my review: 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-most-worthwhile-addition-my-signal-path.html


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

It_Hertz said:


> If you bought your Bit1 Legitimately, the dealer you purchased it form should already be aware of what is needed to fix it. If you did not who is responsible for tech support to your install? Per Elettromedia requirement the Bit one should not be sold out the door... as they require specific tools to ensure proper set up.
> 
> I am not trying to be a prick, but the simple fact is this is more proof as to why items like this should only be bought through Local authorized dealers.
> 
> Kevin, Erin anyone else currently having problems, PM me and I will help you out.


Believe Hertz I understand your and Audison stand on the re-sell of the product. It protects the product and the end user and saves a ton of headaches. But the fact here is for the most part here it is not the end user, its the product. I not saying it a bad product, because if I thought that it was, I would not own one. I was dieing to get one and now I have one and I'm very excited about the direction my system is head now. It was the missing link. I commend Audison for being a stand-up company thats standing behind their product. And most of us around the Forums that would even consider this product is not your average street user.

But what if I'm better equipped to install the product then my local dealer. I also call them about the product and got no call back. I can only speak for myself here. I talked with and seen my local dealer's work, while most of it is cosmetically nice, but when I looked over the technical aspect of the installs I found to much wrong, I have repaired a few cars myself from them. 

So as person that is no newbie to highend car audio and want to use the product i should have taken my comp car I'm building to another shop, with less know how in building technical sound highend systems to work on my car. I think not. Because they sell highend products doesn't mean they can build a true highend sound system. But believe me, around here this is only to common. Don't get me wrong to do great work with in limits and have the highend clientèle, But would let them build my comp car.

Sorry my friend for the rant and thanks for all the help in any shape or form you can provide it to the forum members that is have issues with the product.


----------



## chad

azngotskills said:


> Can I ask why you are being to vague regarding the problem? I see your posts insinuating that you know something but tell people to call, "you know", "wink wink", etc. If you know something, is there a reason why your not just saying it? Are we not "worthy" enough to be in the "know"? Just curious because I have seen you post this numerous times


I'm in in it too Mark, it's because we wanna be absolutely sure that's what it is before we throw a bunch of poo at a fan with no protective mesh. The fix could be VERY simple, BUT intill we are positive we have a fix we don't wanna start anything.


----------



## Genxx

I have a simple solution. Ditch the BitOne and replace it with a DSP6 or 2 DSP6. Option 2 wait for the DSP8.

Just kidding around. I hope all you guys get your issues worked out and glad I am not going through this with you.


----------



## ErinH

Honestly, #1 is that I don’t want to be responsible for anyone else’s gear. I’ve talked to Audison and will again today. I think we’ve boiled down a way to resolve the issue and Fred knows about it; he was the first to mention it to me. I think, like Chad said, that we just don’t want to start recommending things until we are certain. And, beyond that, I just don’t want people cracking cases open and voiding warranty if they don’t feel comfortable and they don’t have Audison’s ‘permission’ because someone on the internet said they have an idea. 

I’m sure you can understand.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Honestly, #1 is that I don’t want to be responsible for anyone else’s gear. I’ve talked to Audison and will again today. I think we’ve boiled down a way to resolve the issue and Fred knows about it; he was the first to mention it to me. I think, like Chad said, that we just don’t want to start recommending things until we are certain. And, beyond that, I just don’t want people cracking cases open and voiding warranty if they don’t feel comfortable and they don’t have Audison’s ‘permission’ because someone on the internet said they have an idea.
> 
> I’m sure you can understand.



You got a PM.


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> Honestly, #1 is that I don’t want to be responsible for anyone else’s gear. I’ve talked to Audison and will again today. I think we’ve boiled down a way to resolve the issue and Fred knows about it; he was the first to mention it to me. I think, like Chad said, that we just don’t want to start recommending things until we are certain. And, beyond that, I just don’t want people *cracking cases open *and voiding warranty if they don’t feel comfortable and they don’t have Audison’s ‘permission’ because someone on the internet said they have an idea.
> 
> I’m sure you can understand.


If the potential fix of this DRC noise involves "cracking cases open" then we just passed the ridiculous phase with this unit, IMO. 

According to Electtromedia itself, there are less than 100 units installed right now in the USA after the "recall"... and now we have "some" units with DRC noise. _Come on_... 

Although my input level issue was resolved I still expressed my personal disappointment with the change of high level input specs of this unit to Electtromedia. This unit (released version) can only handle a max of 100W (4 ohms) of high level inputs, or 20V peak, from a preliminary rating of 32V RMS/46V peak. It could sound more than enough, until you start to realize that the times of relatively low powered OEM systems was over some years ago. In my particular case, just the OEM woofers inputs are rated at least 150W peak at 7 ohms, or a peak of 32V. That what's saturated my bit one for a couple of days at some mid level volume and somehow disabled the software clipping indicators. I did also have that DRC noise, but disappeared once the input level of the bit one was "neutered" to properly handle my OEM amp. 

I do understand that perhaps the technical and marketing idea is that, for cases like mine and other high powered OEM systems, the only way to go is to get the upcoming digital preamp device -which not coincidentally will be sold by Electtromedia itself- with the bit one and not use the high level inputs. And I also understand that that could be the real reason for Electtromedia to require professional installation of this unit. 

At the end of the day, the design and final implementation of this unit, although works somehow, disappoints, IMO. It definitely could -and should- have been way much better than this without too much effort...


----------



## chad

Technic said:


> Although my input level issue was resolved I still expressed my personal disappointment with the change of high level input specs of this unit to Electtromedia. This unit (released version) can only handle a max of 100W (4 ohms) of high level inputs, or 20V peak, from a preliminary rating of 32V RMS/46V peak. It could sound more than enough, until you start to realize that the times of relatively low powered OEM systems was over some years ago. In my particular case, just the OEM woofers inputs are rated at least 150W peak at 7 ohms, or a peak of 32V. That what's saturated my bit one for a couple of days at some mid level volume and somehow disabled the software clipping indicators. I did also have that DRC noise, but disappeared once the input level of the bit one was "neutered" to properly handle my OEM amp.


 Daymn! Have you measured this 32V peak? that's A LOT for an OEM amp and i would wager a guess that it's rather un-common. I would not totally put that one on audison at all. A simple voltage divider network would solve the issue though


----------



## Genxx

Now we can all see why it is taking so long to get the MS-8 and DSP8 to the market.


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> If the potential fix of this DRC noise involves "cracking cases open" then we just passed the ridiculous phase with this unit, IMO.


Most would still send theirs back in to Audison I’m sure… so if you look at it in that regard there’s no reason for the end user to crack it open unless they’re just impatient. Again, let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. 

^ This is not a disagreeance with you… I just don’t want this to get out of hand.


----------



## nepl29

Looks like Audison drop the ball big time. i hope i did the right decision of ditching the h701 for the bitone, my friend told me i shouldve wait longer until all the issues get resolved. i really hope he's wrong.


----------



## ErinH

nepl29 said:


> Looks like Audison drop the ball big time. i hope i did the right decision of ditching the h701 for the bitone, my friend told me i shouldve wait longer until all the issues get resolved. i really hope he's wrong.



Crap happens, man. Mark made an excellent point about the h701 having issues and everyone’s just accepted it. And there’s plenty of them (skipping presets, losing presets, RCA noise, etc). 
The thing about Elettromedia is that they’re taking care of their customers to get these issues resolved. Heck, I’ve been email swapping with them the past few hours and they’ve been nothing but extremely helpful. In fact, I have a feeling my issues could be resolved as early as tonight regarding the alt whine.

I know the DRC controller issue is being remedied. 

Bottom line is that if you buy legit you’re set. It’s very possible you may not have issues. 
I’m in the middle of this bull and I’ve got others who are helping me through it; they know who they are. Once these issues are resolved, there’s no doubt that this piece will be highly sought after. If you’re coming from the h701 you won’t miss that thing at all. 

Rest assured, you’ll be fine… one way or the other you’ll be just fine.


----------



## nepl29

bikinpunk said:


> Crap happens, man. Mark made an excellent point about the h701 having issues and everyone’s just accepted it. And there’s plenty of them (skipping presets, losing presets, RCA noise, etc).
> The thing about Elettromedia is that they’re taking care of their customers to get these issues resolved. Heck, I’ve been email swapping with them the past few hours and they’ve been nothing but extremely helpful. In fact, I have a feeling my issues could be resolved as early as tonight regarding the alt whine.
> 
> I know the DRC controller issue is being remedied.
> 
> Bottom line is that if you buy legit you’re set. It’s very possible you may not have issues.
> I’m in the middle of this bull and I’ve got others who are helping me through it; they know who they are. Once these issues are resolved, there’s no doubt that this piece will be highly sought after. If you’re coming from the h701 you won’t miss that thing at all.
> 
> Rest assured, you’ll be fine… one way or the other you’ll be just fine.


Thanks for the kind words Erin really needed it. i guess i will hope for the best.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Technic said:


> If the potential fix of this DRC noise involves "cracking cases open" then we just passed the ridiculous phase with this unit, IMO.
> 
> According to Electtromedia itself, there are less than 100 units installed right now in the USA after the "recall"... and now we have "some" units with DRC noise. _Come on_...
> 
> Although my input level issue was resolved I still expressed my personal disappointment with the change of high level input specs of this unit to Electtromedia. This unit (released version) can only handle a max of 100W (4 ohms) of high level inputs, or 20V peak, from a preliminary rating of 32V RMS/46V peak. It could sound more than enough, until you start to realize that the times of relatively low powered OEM systems was over some years ago. In my particular case, just the OEM woofers inputs are rated at least 150W peak at 7 ohms, or a peak of 32V. That what's saturated my bit one for a couple of days at some mid level volume and somehow disabled the software clipping indicators. I did also have that DRC noise, but disappeared once the input level of the bit one was "neutered" to properly handle my OEM amp.
> 
> I do understand that perhaps the technical and marketing idea is that, for cases like mine and other high powered OEM systems, the only way to go is to get the upcoming digital preamp device -which not coincidentally will be sold by Electtromedia itself- with the bit one and not use the high level inputs. And I also understand that that could be the real reason for Electtromedia to require professional installation of this unit.
> 
> At the end of the day, the design and final implementation of this unit, although works somehow, disappoints, IMO. It definitely could -and should- have been way much better than this without too much effort...


Why can't you just lower the volume to 3/4 or something like that, it would probably give you a flatter FR curve at that setting leaving the bit one to do less antiEQ'ing?


----------



## Technic

t3sn4f2 said:


> Why can't you just lower the volume to 3/4 or something like that, it would probably give you a flatter FR curve at that setting leaving the bit one to do less antiEQ'ing?


That's what I did _in addition _of lowering the output/input levels in the bit one... my point is, if the specs were kept at 32V RMS max input level this would not have been at issue at all.

This is not an unreasonable spec at all: the Audiocontrol DQL-8 and the LC6/LC8 LOCs accept up to 400W max inputs (28V RMS or 40V peak).


----------



## guitarsail

bikinpunk said:


> I’m in the middle of this bull and I’ve got others who are helping me through it; they know who they are. Once these issues are resolved, there’s no doubt that this piece will be highly sought after. If you’re coming from the h701 you won’t miss that thing at all.


So i never did get to ask you why this was so much better than the 701


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> *Most would still send theirs back in to Audison I’m sure*… so if you look at it in that regard there’s no reason for the end user to crack it open unless they’re just impatient. Again, let’s not get ahead of ourselves here.
> 
> ^ This is not a disagreeance with you… I just don’t want this to get out of hand.


No problem at all... that's my opinion as well, however this "new" noise issue is simply stupid. 

Again, the customer service provided to me by Electtromedia and the selling dealer has been A+++ from beginning to end, but I also work in a major communications/electronics company, and for stupid issues like this people could get fired.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Technic said:


> That's what I did _in addition _of lowering the output/input levels in the bit one... my point is, if the specs were kept at 32V RMS max input level this would not have been at issue at all.
> 
> This is not an unreasonable spec at all: the Audiocontrol DQL-8 and the LC6/LC8 LOCs accept up to 400W max inputs (28V RMS or 40V peak).


True. You are using the OEM volume as the master anyways right. Which would make lowering volume idea not a very practical one.


----------



## ErinH

guitarsail said:


> So i never did get to ask you why this was so much better than the 701



I wrote a small review on it somewhere but can’t find it now. Anyway… the things I noticed that improved over the h701:
Enhanced Focus
Better detail
Dynamics improved
Stage widened
Depth increased just a tad

These were all exact settings carried over from the h701. To a ‘t’. I had the software before the bit one got here and I had the presets saved just like were on the 701. I basically dropped the bit one in and fired it up. The noise level decreased and the above were the improvements I noticed.

Also, there just seems to be more ‘life’ to the system. The 701 was never terrible to me, but I do feel that the bit one ‘sounds’ better that that unit. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have put up with the crap I’m going through.


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> I wrote a small review on it somewhere but can’t find it now. Anyway… the things I noticed that improved over the h701:
> *Enhanced Focus
> Better detail
> Dynamics improved
> Stage widened
> Depth increased just a tad*
> 
> These were all exact settings carried over from the h701. To a ‘t’. I had the software before the bit one got here and I had the presets saved just like were on the 701. I basically dropped the bit one in and fired it up. The noise level decreased and the above were the improvements I noticed.
> 
> Also, there just seems to be more ‘life’ to the system. The 701 was never terrible to me, but I do feel that the bit one ‘sounds’ better that that unit. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have put up with the crap I’m going through.


I can say as well that all those improvement attributes as well as reduced noise/hiss apply to my bit one implementation over the Cleansweep/DQXS setup that I used to have. Nothing too radical, just a better sound experience overall enough to notice, especially the elimination of the Cleansweep hiss (extremely low already but once you hear it you know that is there) due to the use of the OEM volume instead of its Master volume. 

There is as much hiss now as OEM, even still using the OEM volume instead of the DRC.


----------



## chad

Technic said:


> That's what I did _in addition _of lowering the output/input levels in the bit one... my point is, if the specs were kept at 32V RMS max input level this would not have been at issue at all.
> 
> This is not an unreasonable spec at all: the Audiocontrol DQL-8 and the LC6/LC8 LOCs accept up to 400W max inputs (28V RMS or 40V peak).


I have to agree, like I said it's a divider network and if the front end for that input stage is quiet enough then there's no reason that the sensitivity cannot be decreased. Single ended DI boxes can handle that 400W mark and still remain dead silent, a differential powered circuit able to swing 25-30V should certainly do it!


----------



## guitarsail

bikinpunk said:


> I wrote a small review on it somewhere but can’t find it now. Anyway… the things I noticed that improved over the h701:
> Enhanced Focus
> Better detail
> Dynamics improved
> Stage widened
> Depth increased just a tad
> 
> These were all exact settings carried over from the h701. To a ‘t’. I had the software before the bit one got here and I had the presets saved just like were on the 701. I basically dropped the bit one in and fired it up. The noise level decreased and the above were the improvements I noticed.
> 
> Also, there just seems to be more ‘life’ to the system. The 701 was never terrible to me, but I do feel that the bit one ‘sounds’ better that that unit. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have put up with the crap I’m going through.


Interesting...Personally I think the car sounds great right now, don't have a desire to make it better other than adding the 701 to get the presets and extra EQ, but if it takes me backwards in dynamics or staging or what not...it'll go right up for sale. Sorry to thread jack..carry on.


----------



## ErinH

No problem, man. Thread jack away. I’ve practically thread jacked myself three times now.  

Hopefully once you get ready, me, you and Jason can work on your car to get it finished up and maybe have a little tuning session.

We need to get on Jason, though! He’s never going to have a system. But, he will have the most awesome headunit install and DIY sunroof EVAR!


----------



## CraigE

bikinpunk said:


> No problem, man. Thread jack away. I’ve practically thread jacked myself three times now.





Thats funny :laugh4:


----------



## guitarsail

bikinpunk said:


> No problem, man. Thread jack away. I’ve practically thread jacked myself three times now.
> 
> Hopefully once you get ready, me, you and Jason can work on your car to get it finished up and maybe have a little tuning session.
> 
> We need to get on Jason, though! He’s never going to have a system. But, he will have the most awesome headunit install and DIY sunroof EVAR!


My car will never be done at this rate. :laugh: At least its in stereo i guess..

And Jason I've offered many times to work on his, I'd rather almost do some work on his first since its his garage and all

I am bummed your coming up this weekend and I'll be at work all day cursing and swearing.


----------



## ErinH

guitarsail said:


> My car will never be done at this rate. :laugh: At least its in stereo i guess..
> 
> And Jason I've offered many times to work on his, I'd rather almost do some work on his first since its his garage and all
> 
> I am bummed your coming up this weekend and I'll be at work all day cursing and swearing.



Well, the plan is for this weekend, but I’m not sure 100% yet. My wife might be getting off work Saturday night so that would change things. 

I may even wait yet again just so I can make sure I have everything in, in time. Tru line driver, connector for RCAs, 7990, etc. 

I’m hoping that two of the 3 come in by then.


----------



## imjustjason

I'll be fine


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just wanted to say that I re-installed and re-intialized my Bit One with a HU output setting of 30 out of 40. It did quieten things down a little..but not a lot. I am about 3 seconds away from making a YouTube video of this whine and Morse Code signal battle on my speakers...just to give all of you a nice show. It is pretty ridiculous.

I am (at this time) electing to do nothing about the whine and beeping even though more than 3 people have stepped forward to offer advice and some information on the issue. I respect all of their opinions, but I think I will simply ask for a replacement. I have spent too much on the unit to be taking the DIY attitude down to that level. No offense to anyone. I appreciate the input and support....it certainly shows that this forum works when it comes right down to it. None of those stepping forward have one inkling of an idea of who I am...and yet they offered their time to me. I am flattered. Really.

Meanwhile, I think I will spend some time reading up on tweak and tune So I can look like a dumb ass 90% of the time in front of you all instead of 99% of the time.


----------



## t3sn4f2

ARCuhTEK said:


> Just wanted to say that I re-installed and re-intialized my Bit One with a HU output setting of 30 out of 40. It did quieten things down a little..but not a lot. I am about 3 seconds away from making a YouTube video of this whine and Morse Code signal battle on my speakers...just to give all of you a nice show. It is pretty ridiculous.
> 
> I am (at this time) electing to do nothing about the whine and beeping even though more than 3 people have stepped forward to offer advice and some information on the issue. I respect all of their opinions, but I think I will simply ask for a replacement. I have spent too much on the unit to be taking the DIY attitude down to that level. No offense to anyone. I appreciate the input and support....it certainly shows that this forum works when it comes right down to it. None of those stepping forward have one inkling of an idea of who I am...and yet they offered their time to me. I am flattered. Really.
> 
> Meanwhile, I think I will spend some time reading up on tweak and tune So I can look like a dumb ass 90% of the time in front of you all instead of 99% of the time.


When does the flick start? 

I'm ready :snacks:


----------



## monkeyboy

Mine is doing the morse code boogie as well. I don't have a lot of time to look into it right now, but I certainly hear it at times.

I will be rebuilding my system as soon as I get caught up here at work. Just trying to get by until then.


----------



## ErinH

you guys really just need to call audison. truthfully, we've all wasted time here posting about and bitching about the problems. Call audison. If you have time to post, you have time to pick up the phone.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> you guys really just need to call audison. truthfully, we've all wasted time here posting about and bitching about the problems. Call audison. If you have time to post, you have time to pick up the phone.


That's what the internets does to peoples.


----------



## SynRG

What head units, single and double DIN, at this point on the market have optical outputs that could be used with the Bit One?


----------



## ErinH

^ it's been discussed here before I'm pretty sure. Run a search; you should find what you want to know. I'd prefer to keep this thread somewhat on track (well, as much as it can be).


----------



## ArcL100

<cat pic>


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> If you have time to post, you have time to pick up the phone.


Not true....

I have time here and there in my day, but if i call Audison, I want to be laptop in the truck, plugged in...in dirty clothes ( I have to crawl on my hands and knees to get to the Bit One under my seat which is not good when you wear a suit 9-5)

I can pop online and "moan and *****" in just a matter is seconds and be back to work. When I do have the free time....my wife needs something, honey do list...etc.

BTW I dont think anything I have said can be considered moaning or bitching. In fact, I would say I am pretty darn relaxed about it considering I just spent $715. Sure, I used the word ridiculous earlier today but I meant is as almost a laughable statement. I am confident I will get my unit replaced. That is all I ask. The only thing I will be sad about is the down time.

In my case, I only work until noon on Fridays so my intent is to get this resolved Friday afternoon. Once the week starts, my time is limited.

Add to that fact that I sometimes LIKE coming here and relating to others with the same equipment (and in this case same issues), and that makes for a good reason to spend a little time here each day....minutes at a time.

By the way Erin, I noticed that my whine gets louder when I turn the headlights on.....you may have bypassed the whine for now, but did you notice anything similar?


----------



## quality_sound

Erin's whine also got louder with the headlights.


----------



## ErinH

^ it didn't get louder. But, something strange was going on (is going on... whatever).

I have daytime running light buzz. It goes away when you flip the headlights on (disabling the DRL's). I pulled the fuse b/c I didn't have time for that crap, too.
When I isolated the board the whine went away, and the DRL buzz when away, too.


----------



## ErinH

Kevin, you don't have to be sitting next to the bit one when you call. You know your problems back and forth. They're not going to tell you to run new software. They'll likely tell you the same thing I did. You can always write down what they say and call back at a later time. You're talking about sending it in... that's fine. But you have to call them to get an address and RMA #. So, either way, you'll have to call.

And you can't say you're too busy to pick up the phone... (or maybe you can, but I won't believe it).


----------



## Hernan

bikinpunk said:


> As for 'audiophile grade' connections... well, I don't know if I have these. I had some nice folks here DIY me some RCAs and they seem to be just fine. When I switched the B1 in place of the h701 there was a world of difference in terms of sound quality and I had entered the same settings for the b1 as the h701; it was as much a straight swap as I could have gotten.


Interesting. Could you discribe are the biggest differences? Tonality? coherence? Imaging?

The 701 is a GOOD sounding unit with a solid UI.


----------



## ErinH

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/684626-post549.html


----------



## volker

Sorry to chime in here...
My Bit One should be on the way as we speak. Ordered it from an authorized dealer which makes me feel a little bit better reading about certain issues here.
That is not suggesting that all the offers I received to get one from folks here on the board would have been unauthorized or illegal units... it's just going towards that dealing with a defect might have caused more work for anybody in between.

So, seeing it as it is, I won't be able to test my bit one till a few months down the road.

For that reason I have to ask: What is the issue with it ? Is it a general defect ? Does Audison know about it and intends to fix it ? Recall ? Do they wait till someone complains and then offer a solution ? Have they sent out notification to all registered owners ?
Do I have to install my unit, hear if I have an issue with it then ripp it out and sent it in ?

Sorry if this sounds like a rant... I'm just a little nervous about the potential scenario that the single most expensive item in my install at the moment might be an Edsel....


----------



## Hernan

bikinpunk said:


> I wrote a small review on it somewhere but can’t find it now. Anyway… the things I noticed that improved over the h701:
> Enhanced Focus
> Better detail
> Dynamics improved
> Stage widened
> Depth increased just a tad
> 
> These were all exact settings carried over from the h701. To a ‘t’. I had the software before the bit one got here and I had the presets saved just like were on the 701. I basically dropped the bit one in and fired it up. The noise level decreased and the above were the improvements I noticed.
> 
> Also, there just seems to be more ‘life’ to the system. The 701 was never terrible to me, but I do feel that the bit one ‘sounds’ better that that unit. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have put up with the crap I’m going through.


Same settings and using toslink on both units?

Someone does a comparation btw the B1 and The 701 at HOME playing thru a reference system?

Once you begin playing with EQ, phase setting and the likes, is very difficult to make a fair comparation.


----------



## ErinH

volker said:


> Sorry to chime in here...


Why should you be sorry? That’s what this thread is for mang! 
I’m not going to speak for Audison, but I will say that if you have a problem with the unit you’re in good hands. Call them if you have problems. They’ll take care of you. 

Audison obviously knows about some of these issues because they’ve done a recall and they’ve made a fix for ‘new’ units. They’ve also started up their webpage which has updates for software/firmware as they come out.
However, like any company putting out a new product, they’re experiencing some issues that they apparently didn’t foresee. Crap happens. Luckily they’re taking responsibility for it, whether or not you believe this should be happening to begin with. 
As I said before, those who don’t own the unit really shouldn’t be talking about the issues based on what you see here. There are a few guys not having issues at all. I am, but they’re helping me remedy the situation. I’m trying to work on it myself rather than send it in. If that fails, I’ll send it back. It sucks… but I’ll get over it. I’m just glad they have their customers’ back.




volker said:


> My Bit One should be on the way as we speak.
> 
> I won't be able to test my bit one till a few months down the road.


Now, let me ask you a seemingly stupid question… if you knew of the issues it had (which, I’m sure you did since I only contacted you a couple days ago and this thread has been spiraling for weeks/months now) and you’re not going to be able to install for a few months, then why order it now? Why not wait until closer to the time when you'll use it? Just curious. I could understand a week or two in advance, but ‘months’ kind of makes me go . lol


----------



## ErinH

Hernan said:


> Same settings and using toslink on both units?
> 
> Someone does a comparation btw the B1 and The 701 at HOME playing thru a reference system?


Toslink and Analog. The only thing that changed was the bit one. I somewhat level matched the bit one to the h701’s output via the master volume control on the bit one and my RTA. I keep an excel file of my RTA results so I knew what level to set it to. Wasn’t an exact science, but it was close enough for me. 




Hernan said:


> Once you begin playing with EQ, phase setting and the likes, is very difficult to make a fair comparation.


Are you asking or telling? 
I had mine on my home system. But, my car setup is much better than my home system in regards to refinement and detail. I’d have a hard time really picking out the differences in the house setup.


You can take my opinion or leave it. I’m just telling you what I experienced. It was, in fact, enough difference for me to still hang on to my bit one even though I’ve only been able to listen to music a couple weeks out of the past 2/3 months. That should tell you plenty… or maybe not.


----------



## Hernan

bikinpunk said:


> Toslink and Analog. The only thing that changed was the bit one. I somewhat level matched the bit one to the h701’s output via the master volume control on the bit one and my RTA. I keep an excel file of my RTA results so I knew what level to set it to. Wasn’t an exact science, but it was close enough for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you asking or telling?
> I had mine on my home system. But, my car setup is much better than my home system in regards to refinement and detail. I’d have a hard time really picking out the differences in the house setup.
> 
> 
> You can take my opinion or leave it. I’m just telling you what I experienced. It was, in fact, enough difference for me to still hang on to my bit one even though I’ve only been able to listen to music a couple weeks out of the past 2/3 months. That should tell you plenty… or maybe not.



I'm just curious about how the new unit sounds.

If you were feeding the units with diferent inputs (A vs D) is apples to oranges.


----------



## volker

bikinpunk said:


> Now, let me ask you a seemingly stupid question… if you knew of the issues it had (which, I’m sure you did since I only contacted you a couple days ago and this thread has been spiraling for weeks/months now) and you’re not going to be able to install for a few months, then why order it now? Why not wait until closer to the time when you'll use it? Just curious. I could understand a week or two in advance, but ‘months’ kind of makes me go . lol



I guess there are 2 part to this:

First, I might have gotten lost in which issues are which... 
And maybe you can clarify... 
There was an early issue with the Bit One which Audison corrected, made a recall and sent out new versions, right ?!
The problems you all experience now are happening on the updated models?
Then I screwed up and bought to early.
The dealer I talked to told me about an issue and that his units are all updated... I felt ok.

As for the buy now part:
For the same reason that I drive around with a gutted car for the last 4 weeks... my off time is not exactly set in stone.
Plus, I needed to know what way I go, so I can make the connections in the car and put the panels back in... 
With more information, the priorities are changing... I learn about new products and new brands and adjust my choices... all cool... keeps the economy rollin'


----------



## ErinH

^ yea, I didn't mean to offend, but surely you can see why I didn't understand the logic. 

Anyway, regardless of anything you'll be fine. Audison will take care of you.


----------



## volker

I really didn't take it offensive, no worries.
I just want to have all parts in hand when I get a free day to work on it.
When I ordered it it looked good for next week. Yesterday that illusion was shattered.


----------



## _Dejan_

Hi everyone,
Today Im receive my Audison Bit One. Im install software&drivers and start application...
My unit have 1.0.7.1 firmware, but I don't know if this is original or are in store flash it before they send it to me...

Im not read manual yet but must be in MEM on connector allways 12V? Because when I unplug power I loose all settings and this is not good... Can Bit1 somehow store all data that when you remove power all setings is not lost? If not then this suck... In my old alpine radio(CDA9813) I can when lose power with few buttons call stored settings...
Lets go reading manual 

Bye, _Dejan_


----------



## ErinH

Ask your dealer about whether or not it came with that software.

I jumped the 12v power over to the memory. Otherwise you lose all settings.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Ask your dealer about whether or not it came with that software.
> 
> I jumped the switched 12v power over to the memory. Otherwise you lose all settings.


You sure you did not jump unswitched over?


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> You sure you did not jump unswitched over?



Oops. Yep. My bad. Edited post*


----------



## _Dejan_

Im se MEM label on place where is located power connector and Im think that here I must "brick" it with permanent 12V but Im not read manual yet... but this is little annoying thing if you work something and remove fuse you loose all settings and you must connect PC to it and load saved settings...
I will read manual today 
Im see that it support on S/PDIF Max 48 kHz/24 bit so what happen if I connect on it sound card which can trough optical out support 192kHz/24Bit?
Thanks.

Regards, _Dejan_


----------



## ErinH

_Dejan_ said:


> Im se MEM label on place where is located power connector and Im think that here I must "brick" it with permanent 12V but Im not read manual yet... but this is little annoying thing if you work something and remove fuse you loose all settings and you must connect PC to it and load saved settings...
> I will read manual today
> Im see that it support on S/PDIF Max 48 kHz/24 bit so what happen if I connect on it sound card which can trough optical out support 192kHz/24Bit?
> Thanks.
> 
> Regards, _Dejan_


Just put a constant 12v source to the memory. Picture it as a headunit memory wire. That sucker is always constant. The only switched wire you have is the remote turn on. I’m not sure why, but it appears you actually have to have BOTH the 12v & the ‘memory’ hooked up to constant hot. 

No idea about the second. I would guess it would just knock down the sampling rate. 

I’d hit up your dealer about some of these questions, though. They should be able to answer you in a quick phonecall.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Ask your dealer about whether or not it came with that software.
> 
> I jumped the 12v power over to the memory. Otherwise you lose all settings.


Ok now. So what you guys are saying is the the 12 volt input doesn't act as a memory input for keeping the memory on the unit like headunits?

You have to put a 12 volt constant singal into the Memory slot to retain your settings. Then the remote turn-on from your headunit turns the Bit 1 on/off??


HOW TO TURN THE BIT ONE ON / OFF ONCE INSTALLED:

1. Push the DRC main control switch (to turn on). Keep the DRC main control knob pressed (to shut down). In this case no other connections (Remote In / Key Switch) are required.

*2. Connecting one of the Remote In plugs using a Remote signal coming from one source (the KEY SWITCH connection is not required).*

3. Connecting KEY SWITCH 1. Every time you turn on / off the car ignition key, the Bit One will turn on / off. If this control is used, KEY SWITCH 2 can not be used.

4. Connecting KEY SWITCH 2. Every time you turn on / off the car ignition key, the Bit One will recall how it was shut down; if the processor was shut down from the DRC unit (optional), you can turn it on with the appropriate DRC control. If the processor was shut down with the KEY SWITCH, you can turn it on directly with the KEY SWITCH. If this control is used, the KEY SWITCH 1 can not be used.


----------



## ErinH

Man, I'm confused. I'd have to see it.

There's a +/- 12v source labeled clearly. Then there's the key switch and 'mem'. I originally didn't use the memory wire and instead used the key switch slot, and found out fast that it doesn't save settings. You have to keep the 'mem' on a constant 12v source. Which, seems odd to me that you have both that and the other +12v to hook up to constant 12v. I mean, maybe I've got it wrong, but that's the way it's set up for me and is working just fine. 

I've got remote out from headunit going to remote in on bit one, remote out of bit one going to amps. 'mem' and +12v share a 12v source. -12v is ground.

I read the manual a couple times over and it's a bit confusing.


----------



## t3sn4f2

_Dejan_ said:


> Im se MEM label on place where is located power connector and Im think that here I must "brick" it with permanent 12V but Im not read manual yet... but this is little annoying thing if you work something and remove fuse you loose all settings and you must connect PC to it and load saved settings...
> I will read manual today
> Im see that it support on *S/PDIF Max 48 kHz/24 bit* so what happen if I connect on it sound card which can trough optical out support 192kHz/24Bit?
> Thanks.
> 
> Regards, _Dejan_


From the manual......

"Electrical and Optical S/PDIF(*Max* 192 kHz/24 bit)"


----------



## ErinH

t3sn4f2 said:


> From the manual......
> 
> "Electrical and Optical S/PDIF(*Max* 192 kHz/24 bit)"


I was thinking that the bit one did 192/24.


----------



## _Dejan_

t3sn4f2 said:


> From the manual......
> 
> "Electrical and Optical S/PDIF(*Max* 192 kHz/24 bit)"


from 1.2a manual:
Input stage
Low level (Pre) Ch1÷Ch6, AUX1 L/R, AUX2 L/R
High Level (Spk) Ch1÷Ch8, Phone IN
Digital Coaxial, Optical (S/PDIF Max 48 kHz/24 bit)


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Man, I'm confused. I'd have to see it.
> 
> There's a +/- 12v source labeled clearly. Then there's the key switch and 'mem'. I originally didn't use the memory wire and instead used the key switch slot, and found out fast that it doesn't save settings. You have to keep the 'mem' on a constant 12v source. Which, seems odd to me that you have both that and the other +12v to hook up to constant 12v. I mean, maybe I've got it wrong, but that's the way it's set up for me and is working just fine.
> 
> I've got remote out from headunit going to remote in on bit one, remote out of bit one going to amps. 'mem' and +12v share a 12v source. -12v is ground.
> 
> I read the manual a couple times over and it's a bit confusing.


Yep it is. But if thats the way it works, it is a little odd. The manual does not read that way. What makes it a little confusing is they call the mem input a switched input also in the part of the manual I post above. The in the part I put in *Bold* says if you use the remote in you don't need switched. Sounds like bad wording or a miss print.


----------



## ErinH

From the early manual that has been posted up numerous times:
Electrical and Optical S/PDIF(Max 192 kHz/24 bit)


So, they changed it up?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> I was thinking that the bit one did 192/24.



In the 1.2a manual it does say 48khz, in the other one it says 192Khz and everything else I read says 192khz. I was guess its 192khz its a little advance for 48 wouldn't you think.


----------



## t3sn4f2

The manual with 192KHz says preliminary on the title so it's probably 48KHz since the only thing that would output higher would be a CarPC and I doubt they would add that option for that small of a market. 

I don't think DVD-A would work either since I'm pretty sure they still don't output digitally in standard formats because of anti-pirating reasons.


----------



## slvrtsunami

Confusion always arises when its translated from Italian to English. Best intentions, try to get it right, but it does not always turn out that way.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

t3sn4f2 said:


> The manual with 192KHz says preliminary on the title so it's probably 48KHz since the only thing that would output higher would be a CarPC and I doubt they would add that option for that small of a market.
> 
> I don't think DVD-A would work either since I'm pretty sure they still don't output digitally in standard formats because of anti-pirating reasons.


Hmmm, you may be right my friend, you may be right.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

About the wiring and retaining memory. There are many ways to wire the Bit One but my scenario is as follows:

1. 12v straight from battery 1/0 ga. fused through distribution block into 12 power on B1.
2. 12v straight from battery fused through distribution block into "MEM slot on B1.
3. 12v remote wire in from HU to the "Remote In" on the B1.
4. Ground wire from my ground distribution block straight to B1 "-" slot.

Here is a pic.









There are five 14 ga. wires to the rear side of the B1 in this photo. Three blue, one pink and one black.

The pink wire is from my HU.
The two blue wires from the "triangular shaped" distribution block (on the power side) are to the power and memory on the Bit One. The single (hard to see) black wire from the triangular shaped distribution block is to the Bit One "-" slot. As stated above, instead of running a second wire to the memory slot, you can run a short jumper wire from the 12v "+" slot over to the "MEM" slot on the Bit One (if and only if your 12v "+" wire is wired directly to the battery).

The final blue wire is "Remote Out" from the Bit One to my amps which are daisy chained.


This retains all settings when the car is shut off. It does NOT retain settings if you disconnect the battery. But, anytime you tweak the B1 from your laptop, you should save your settings to a file on your laptop. If you disconnect the B1, simply reload the settings to your B1 software, then click on "File" ----> "FINALIZE TO BIT ONE"

That is all that is needed to get back up and running if you need to disconnect the battery.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> About the wiring and retaining memory. There are many ways to wire the Bit One but my scenario is as follows:
> 
> 1. 12v straight from battery 1/0 ga. fused through distribution block into 12 power on B1.
> 2. 12v straight from battery fused through distribution block into "MEM slot on B1.
> 3. 12v remote wire in from HU to the "Remote In" on the B1.
> 4. Ground wire from my ground distribution block straight to B1 "-" slot.
> 
> Here is a pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pink wire is from my HU.
> The two blue wires from the "triangular shaped" distribution block (on the power side) are to the power and memory on the Bit One. The single (hard to see) black wire from the triangular shaped distribution block is to the Bit One "-" slot. As stated above, instead of running a second wire to the memory slot, you can run a short jumper wire from the 12v "+" slot over to the "MEM" slot on the Bit One (if and only if your 12v "+" wire is wired directly to the battery).
> 
> 
> This retains all settings when the car is shut off. It does NOT retain settings if you disconnect the battery. But, anytime you tweak the B1 from your laptop, you should save your settings to a file on your laptop. If you disconnect the B1, simply reload the settings to your B1 software, then click on "File" ----> "FINALIZE TO BIT ONE"
> 
> That is all that is needed to get back up and running if you meed to disconnect the battery.


And there you have it.


----------



## chad

One possible reason there may be a MEM input is so that if one wanted to they could utilize a small backup battery for retention, why a battery for this was not built in is beyond me but that could be the reason right thar.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Update:

Just spoke to Larry. He has informed me that there is mostly likely a problem with the Bit One, which is causing excessive alternator whine. The potential problem lies with the case itself and the relationship of the case to the inputs. This is the same thing I have been told on this forum and by a couple of people in PM's.

Essentially, there is no need for me to return my unit because the solution is to simply remove the paint on the case in the immediate area around each input. Note I did not say, strip all the paint off. Just at the thin edge of the case immediately at each input.

By virtue of the fact that my alt whine and my digital Morse Code beeping go away when I disconnect the DRC, I fully believe this will solve my whine issue. It will not solve my Morse Code issue.

Larry directed me to their service department to get a RMA on just my DRC. I will send it in and they will send me a new one.

All of the above is basically what I have been told for days. But I wanted to be the good consumer and hear it from them myself.

Larry also told me that removing the case will not void my warranty. I also wanted to hear that directly from Audison.

Larry said that Audison's middle name was "reasonable" and he certainly demonstrated that fact.

I will be filing the paint off the input edges of my Bit One case tonight. I will take pics.


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> Update:
> 
> Just spoke to Larry. He has informed me that there is mostly likely a problem with the Bit One, which is causing excessive alternator whine. The potential problem lies with the case itself and the relationship of the case to the inputs. This is the same thing I have been told on this forum and by a couple of people in PM's.
> 
> Essentially, there is no need for me to return my unit because the solution is to simply remove the paint on the case in the immediate area around each input. Note I did not say, strip all the paint off. Just at the thin edge of the case immediately at each input.
> 
> By virtue of the fact that my alt whine and my digital Morse Code beeping go away when I disconnect the DRC, I fully believe this will solve my whine issue. It will not solve my Morse Code issue.
> 
> Larry directed me to their service department to get a RMA on just my DRC. I will send it in and they will send me a new one.
> 
> All of the above is basically what I have been told for days. But I wanted to be the good consumer and hear it from them myself.
> 
> Larry also told me that removing the case will not void my warranty. I also wanted to hear that directly from Audison.
> 
> Larry said that Audison's middle name was "reasonable" and he certainly demonstrated that fact.
> 
> I will be filing the paint off the input edges of my Bit One case tonight. I will take pics.



Well now that this is out...... are you taking it apart to do so? and if so are you handy with a meter?

At the "bottom" of the PCB you will see 2 screw holes where the top attaches, there are silver rings there unlike at the "top" these rings make contact with the metallic coating that coats the top of the chassis.

You will also note that the USB connection has a metal shell, take a meter and see if this chassis ground has continuity with the USB shell, if not then check if it has continuity with the shield of the RCA, if it does have continuity with any of the I/O RCA shells then the USB input shares audio ground and attention should be paid that the USN shell ALSO no longer contacts the metallic coating.


----------



## data_mine

chad said:


> One possible reason there may be a MEM input is so that if one wanted to they could utilize a small backup battery for retention, why a battery for this was not built in is beyond me but that could be the reason right thar.


Chad, the mem input has nothing to do with remembering settings (they're saved in flash memory on the unit itself, it won't forget anything if unplugged). It's there to determine (if you're NOT using a remote signal to trigger it) how the bitone operates for power on/off with the car.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chad said:


> Well now that this is out...... are you taking it apart to do so? and if so are you handy with a meter?
> 
> At the "bottom" of the PCB you will see 2 screw holes where the top attaches, there are silver rings there unlike at the "top" these rings make contact with the metallic coating that coats the top of the chassis.
> 
> You will also note that the USB connection has a metal shell, take a meter and see if this chassis ground has continuity with the USB shell, if not then check if it has continuity with the shield of the RCA, if it does have continuity with any of the I/O RCA shells then the USB input shares audio ground and attention should be paid that the USN shell ALSO no longer contacts the metallic coating.


I am semi handy with a meter. But my install buddy is great with one. I will make sure he supervises the grasshopper.

Thanks Chad.


----------



## chad

data_mine said:


> Chad, the mem input has nothing to do with remembering settings (they're saved in flash memory on the unit itself, it won't forget anything if unplugged). It's there to determine (if you're NOT using a remote signal to trigger it) how the bitone operates for power on/off with the car.


Thankya, thankyaverahmuch 

What a weird way to label it! :laugh:


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> I am semi handy with a meter. But my install buddy is great with one. I will make sure he supervises the grasshopper.
> 
> Thanks Chad.


Yeah, see, IF that connector is allowed to touch the metallic AND it's audio ground and not chassis ground then your filing efforts will be futile.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

data_mine said:


> Chad, the mem input has nothing to do with remembering settings (they're saved in flash memory on the unit itself, it won't forget anything if unplugged). It's there to determine (if you're NOT using a remote signal to trigger it) how the bitone operates for power on/off with the car.


I did not know that. I could have sworn that when I disconnected my batter (which I have done several times in this last week) that the Bit One did lose its settings. However, I will be the first to admit, that with my many issues, my own "MEMORY" has been a bit disconnected from my brain.

Thank you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chad said:


> Yeah, see, IF that connector is allowed to touch the metallic AND it's audio ground and not chassis ground then your filing efforts will be futile.



I may need to do a live "modding" session with you just to make sure I know where the chassis ground is on the unit. Let me go back to Erins original photos and see if he may have captured it....and if so I may link it here for clarity.

This is a cropped shot of the USB input.










Now where is the USB chassis ground in this photo? And by touching the metallic connector, you mean the "square box" around the USB input touching the metallic paint on the Bit One cover?


----------



## CraigE

data_mine said:


> Chad, the mem input has nothing to do with remembering settings (they're saved in flash memory on the unit itself, it won't forget anything if unplugged). It's there to determine (if you're NOT using a remote signal to trigger it) how the bitone operates for power on/off with the car.


I would say you are correct.
My B1 power is connected;
1- via fuse tap to a 12v constant source.
2- ground wire.
3- remote in from the HU.

No mem. wire... no on/off key switch just 12v+ & - .
I had a problem at the fuse tap and have disconnected the power to the B1 a few times and HAVE NOT lost my settings.


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> I may need to do a live "modding" session with you just to make sure I know where the chassis ground is on the unit. Let me go back to Erins original photos and see if he may have captured it....and if so I may link it here for clarity.
> 
> This is a cropped shot of the USB input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now where is the USB chassis ground in this photo? And by touching the metallic connector, you mean the "square box" around the USB input touching the metallic paint on the Bit One cover?



Yep that shell, one probe on there, meter set to ohms or continuity check, other probe straight down fromt here you will see a ring around the screw hole so that the metal "paint" can make contact, the other probe ont hat silver. if it beeps or says point something ohms then it's chhassis ground and you are cool, if it's open or higher than say 1 ohm then check the second probe against an RCA sleeve, if THAT beeps or has point something ohms then you need to make sure that bad oscar can't gain contact to that metal coating either.


----------



## _Dejan_

data_mine said:


> Chad, the mem input has nothing to do with remembering settings (they're saved in flash memory on the unit itself, it won't forget anything if unplugged). It's there to determine (if you're NOT using a remote signal to trigger it) how the bitone operates for power on/off with the car.


And why then my loose all settings if I take 12V out from it? Until I leave 12V connected to it I can turn it off/on with DRM or ON/OFF KEY SWITCH, but when I disconnect 12V from +12V in connector I loose all settings and I must go trought all procedure for setting speakers...


----------



## data_mine

chad said:


> Thankya, thankyaverahmuch
> 
> What a weird way to label it! :laugh:


Yeah a lot of people are confused by it's purpose.


I've got my own B1 problems, high levels of static hiss (white noise). I'm uninstalling it this weekend, and it's going back.


----------



## t3sn4f2

_Dejan_ said:


> Im se MEM label on place where is located power connector and Im think that here I must "brick" it with permanent 12V but Im not read manual yet... but this is little annoying thing if you work something and remove fuse you loose all settings and you must connect PC to it and load saved settings...
> I will read manual today
> *Im see that it support on S/PDIF Max 48 kHz/24 bit so what happen if I connect on it sound card which can trough optical out support 192kHz/24Bit?*
> Thanks.
> 
> Regards, _Dejan_


It won't play. (IF you send anything out through the sound card that is above the max allowed by the Bit One)


----------



## chad

data_mine said:


> Yeah a lot of people are confused by it's purpose.
> 
> 
> I've got my own B1 problems, high levels of static hiss (white noise). I'm uninstalling it this weekend, and it's going back.


I do indeed appreciate your clarification and WELCOME!

Sorry about having to send it back, if this headunit dies I may be stuck with external processing, it looks as if it's down to this or the behringer.


----------



## volker

Thanks Kevin for letting us others know what the issues are !


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> Yep that shell, one probe on there, meter set to ohms or continuity check,
> 
> 1. other probe straight down fromt here you will see a ring around the screw hole so that the metal "paint" can make contact, the other probe ont hat silver. if it beeps or says point something ohms then it's chhassis ground and you are cool, if it's open or higher than say 1 ohm
> 
> 2. then check the second probe against an RCA sleeve, if THAT beeps or has point something ohms then you need to make sure that bad oscar can't gain contact to that metal coating either.


Chad...

1. no beep on continuity check. no beep when touching one lead to the USB/RCA connectors and the other to that ring, or when touching the other to the shell.

2. continuity check beeps when touching any of those connectors to another. usb to rca, etc, etc.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Chad...
> 
> 
> 
> 2. continuity check beeps when touching any of those connectors to another. usb to rca, etc, etc.


Don't allow that shell to touch the conductive paint, that's audio ground......

could be 99%of your problems especially if none of your RCA's touch the inside of the hole at all. Tell audison i prefer Corona for **** like this. J/K


----------



## chad

Girls, i think we may have found out alternator whine issue, just got off the phone with Erin.

Now lets tackle the dits and dah's


----------



## chad

auto dupe feature\


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

OK here you go Chad. Tell me what you see and if I'm doing it correct, I did it in just about every way.

Sorry for the bad pictures, my DC is about to die.


*USB to Ground Circle*









*Output to Ground Circle*









*Input to Ground Circle*









*USB to Output*









*USB to Input*










*Now can someone tell me what the Hell this is.*


----------



## chad

Man, I think we found it, Erin said that the chassis snugs up against that shell (USB) on the sides, that is effectively tying the chassis ground to audio ground, hence his FIRST problem which was as SOON as he put in ONE RCA it would take off in whine, but isolated, no whine. I swear it's that damn connector. the holes int eh chassis for the RCA sleeves look PLENTY big for any RCA connector. Remember the first issue? no headunit connected, whined like a dog in heet, which is VERY rare for a processor that close to the amps on the same distro.


----------



## ErinH

jsut wanted to clarify:

I get a continuity beep when going USB to OUTPUTS, but not USB to inputs, as Mark shows above.

The ONLY way for me to get a continuity beep is for me to tie the USB to any of the outputs (rca, or cat5)

*continues filing*


----------



## chad

Those inputs may be differential inputs like on JL and mac amps, one way to find out is if you have continuity from L to R on the shield inputs. But still it's painfully obvious that the USB shell shares ground with the inputs and DOES NOT share it with chassis.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Here-I-Come said:


> *Now can someone tell me what the Hell this is.*


Anyone have this inside their unit.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

chad said:


> Those inputs may be differential inputs like on JL and mac amps, one way to find out is if you have continuity from L to R on the shield inputs. But still it's painfully obvious that the USB shell shares ground with the inputs and DOES NOT share it with chassis.



No Continuity from L to R.


----------



## chad

Here-I-Come said:


> Any have this inside their unit.


That's not an uncommon thing to see, they may have added a line or missed something in the board print.


----------



## chad

Here-I-Come said:


> No Continuity from L to R.


it likely has differential inputs...... BUT I have never had one in my hand and don't have a service manual


----------



## chad

Erin's pics don't show that wire, but I believe that was his V1 unit


----------



## ErinH

Here-I-Come said:


> Anyone have this inside their unit.



I do. hmmm





Notice how tight the fit is on the board with the chassis? Wonder if that could be an issue at all? *shrugs*


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> I do. hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how tight the fit is on the board with the chassis? Wonder if that could be an issue at all? *shrugs*


your pics don't have it present..... v.1.....


----------



## chad

and after I look at the pics again.. don't allow that metal "amp link" shell to touch the coating either........


Better yet, don't let anything metal touch that coating


----------



## ErinH

yea, the pics in the OP were v1. This one definately has it. I just screwed it back together, though... out to the car I go.

*crosses fingers*


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> yea, the pics in the OP were v1. This one definately has it. I just screwed it back together, though... out to the car I go.
> 
> *crosses fingers*


just left you a message about the metal shell on the amp-link


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> yea, the pics in the OP were v1. This one definately has it. I just screwed it back together, though... out to the car I go.
> 
> *crosses fingers*


Ok, I fell better know!


----------



## chad

we need voice chat


----------



## ErinH

no luck, guys. filed the crap out of the USB area and still had noise. actually, it seems like it got worse! 


I'll try again Saturday. I need to take a break from the car.
If you other folks want to give it a shot, lmk what you get. My RCA areas are somewhat grounded but I looked very closely and there's a definate gap around the shell and my RCA shields, so there's no touching there.


----------



## ErinH




----------



## ARCuhTEK

So bear with me a moment.....

Instead of filing the case down, would surrounding the inputs with heat shrink offer any discontinuity? I dont know that it is possible to do this, but I was just trying to think of a way to introduce another material to isolate one from the other instead of filing it down.


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> So bear with me a moment.....
> 
> Instead of filing the case down, would surrounding the inputs with heat shrink offer any discontinuity? I dont know that it is possible to do this, but I was just trying to think of a way to introduce another material to isolate one from the other instead of filing it down.


Yup, in fact I recommended Erin to experiment with careful placement of electrical tape  Thick enough to not wear thru during testing.

You saw the deal-ye-oh about the amp link right? I missed another metal shell. I don't have a big monitor so I have to scroll around :mean:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chad said:


> Yup, in fact I recommended Erin to experiment with careful placement of electrical tape  Thick enough to not wear thru during testing.
> 
> You saw the deal-ye-oh about the amp link right? I missed another metal shell. I don't have a big monitor so I have to scroll around :mean:


I saw the dealio....










Small monitor...I thought you big wig engineers rolled in the dough....


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I was talk to Erin about the Liquid Tape, they sell at auto parts stores. They put it on battery terminals and stuff like that. Do you think that stuff would work.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

This stuff.

Liquid Tape – Electrical Tape, Electrical Insulation, Liquid Electrical Tape – Plasti Dip International

Places that carry the above brand.
http://www.plastidip.com/diy_where_to_buy.php

Star Brite #84104 4OZ Black Liquid Tape - Compounds, Electrical - Electrical Tools, Tape, Staples


----------



## chad

ARCuhTEK said:


> Small monitor...I thought you big wig engineers rolled in the dough....


Frugal bastards too :surprised: It's in the shop, it's a rough life out here 

AND we are such greedy bastards that a lot of us use duals because if we had ONE the size of TWO we'd still fill the whole thing up with DIYMA, but if we have TWO we have a reason to divide and populate.

Weird, I know, nobody else gets it either.

But atlas a simple 17" LCD in the shop on an old dell GX240.


----------



## chad

Here-I-Come said:


> This stuff.
> 
> Liquid Tape – Electrical Tape, Electrical Insulation, Liquid Electrical Tape – Plasti Dip International
> 
> Places that carry the above brand.
> Where to Buy – Specialty Coatings and Adhesives, Protective Coatings – Plasti Dip International
> 
> Star Brite #84104 4OZ Black Liquid Tape - Compounds, Electrical - Electrical Tools, Tape, Staples



I would feel more comfortable EXPERIMENTING with tape, with a more streamlined final approach. A well executed scrape can isolate a lot of things but you want to go at it with precision. Beautiful and effective.

This one at a time thing for Erin may suck, but we are isolating it one thing at a time, and that's important. I could tell you how to decouple the whole damn thing and you can see it...I would highly recommend NOT doing that.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I am very concerned that this has thusfar not resolved Erins whine. As I understood it, (and as per Larrys direction) you can remove the entire circuit board from the case and plug it up as normal and Erin said his whine disappeared. That was very encouraging. But as of a few postsa ago it seems Erin's effort to file down the case did not lead to success (yet).

I know he is taking a car audio break for a few days...but man it makes me want to just send it all back to Audison. Before I do I am going to experiment with some "isolation material" of unknown selection (ad of yet). I woudl prefer to send the unit back to Audison (should none of this work) in factory new condition....just because I am that kind of consumer.


----------



## chad

There was one more metal shell he did not get the coating off of because we missed it. He retired for the evening and did not try isolating that one (the amp link), read back, it's there in full detail, meter readings and all.

Again, one step at a time. The board needs to be isolated, even IF, and IF, it comes down to the RCA flanges, including the data shells. BUT doing so without destroying much, if any, integrity of the internal shielding provided by the upper casing.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

chad said:


> There was one more metal shell he did not get the coating off of because we missed it. He retired for the evening and did not try isolating that one (the amp link), read back, it's there in full detail, meter readings and all.


Opps..you are right.

I was too busy typing and not enough listening.

Thank you Oh Wise One with Big hair.

BTW....have you taken a gander at how many ref backs are associated with this thread. I think its audience qualifies to be labeled as "arena" level. LOL


----------



## t3sn4f2

The optical in has some metal on the top too, would that be an area as well?


----------



## t3sn4f2

and the transformer coil with the pad on it.


----------



## ErinH

Before I go hog wild on this sucker again, I'm going to isolate the board one more time for good measure to make certain that the time I did it wasn't a one-off. 
I’ve noticed alt whine can be temperamental and I want to be sure that the isolation wasn’t a fluke; though given what I’ve been told by those who would know, it likely isn’t.

Like Chad said, one at a time. Kevin, if you want to send it back, do it. But, personally, I’d rather try to make the fix myself if I can. Sending something to cali and back is a 2-week process due to UPS’ 5-day delivery there. I want to at least attempt the fix myself before sending it in.

Audison guys, if you’re watching this, thanks again. 

-	Erin


----------



## chad

t3sn4f2 said:


> The optical in has some metal on the top too, would that be an area as well?





t3sn4f2 said:


> and the transformer coil with the pad on it.


If the optical connector is shielded with that metal, yes, generally optical connections don't need shielded because it's hard to induce noise on light  

Don't scrap anything off in the area around the transformer, the shielding is actually NEEDED there


----------



## ErinH

I did a continuity check on the optical > USB and didn’t get anything.

Plus, the optical is an input. The only continuity checks I’m getting are on the the outputs. Not any of the inputs. 
So, USB/AC LINK/RCA OUT, yes, continuity. RCA IN/OPT/COAX, nope.


----------



## chad

the usb is an input AND an output 


Just being a smartass 

I take yall are in for shopnight tonight?

I'll be drinkin!


----------



## chad

annoying auto dupe feature


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> I take yall are in for shopnight tonight?



Depends on the weather and the woman. I’m going to try to file this thing down one more time this afternoon before she gets home. Going to hook the board up while I’m filing the case and check for alt whine after the car has ran for a bit just to make sure that the original success wasn’t a fluke. 

If not tonight, I might be heading to Jason’s tomorrow. 

One of my friends stopped by last night and laughed at my setup. It consisted of two saw horses and a false floor, lol. He said I need to start coming over to his house and use his garage… he lives 3 minutes from me. :embarrassed:
I do have power at my new house and the roof is up, so I could go over there if I really wanted. But, I may just start borrowing my friend’s garage until then.


----------



## t3sn4f2

chad said:


> If the optical connector is shielded with that metal, yes, *generally optical connections don't need shielded because it's hard to induce noise on light  *
> 
> Don't scrap anything off in the area around the transformer, the shielding is actually NEEDED there


I figured the light end of that piece was fine, I though maybe for the electrical side of it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> Kevin, if you want to send it back, do it. But, personally, I’d rather try to make the fix myself if I can. Sending something to cali and back is a 2-week process due to UPS’ 5-day delivery there. I want to at least attempt the fix myself before sending it in.


Erin,

I am going to try some isolation material this weekend before I send the entire thing in. Since the DRC can be unplugged and sent in separately AND I can still have tunes, I am totally willing to do that.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> I did a continuity check on the optical > USB and didn’t get anything.
> 
> Plus, the optical is an input. The only continuity checks I’m getting are on the the outputs. Not any of the inputs.
> So, USB/AC LINK/RCA OUT, yes, continuity. RCA IN/OPT/COAX, nope.


Same here. As you can see from this post:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/686150-post619.html


----------



## t3sn4f2

öèôðîâîé çâóêîâîé ïðîöåññîð Audison Bit One - avtozvuk.com
Translated version of http://www.avtozvuk.com/az/2009/01/040.htm

A Russian sites Bit One review with measurements. Second link is translated by Google from Russian so it's a bit of a puzzle to understand. Anyone know Russian and wants to provide any useful inf. from it?


----------



## t3sn4f2

I wonder if the digital jitter is the mystery digital issue mentioned earlier in the thread?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Interesting thing here I wanted to post.

I just spoke with a "Yosef" at Electromedia, USA and he claims that by taking the case off from the circuit board (not sure if those are the correct terms) that it not only solved the whine but also solved the digital beeping. This is contrary to what Larry and Fred told me as well as what I remember reading on this thread.

Interesting.

Another point, I have decided to send my entire unit back to Electromedia, USA right away. I asked Yosef when I could expect my unit back into my hands. His response : "Usually within 48 hours"


Umm...thats great news but I will believe it when I see it!

I expect what he meant was that it would leave his hands within 48 hours.


----------



## ErinH

I’m sending mine back, too…




ARCuhTEK said:


> I expect what he meant was that it would leave his hands within 48 hours.



And… Duh.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Autiophile said:


> I absolutely can not believe that some of you are tolerating this aggravation and downtime instead of simply demanding your money back so you can give it to a more deserving company for a product that works.


I dont know of a better product to suit my needs.

I have not had any down time. My system sounds awesome, with some aggravation from the beeping and whine....but I unplug the DRC to eliinate the beeping and if I dont want whine I just shut the truck off. Maybe not for LONG....but it does give me a glimpse of what the Bit One can do for me.

It is still worth it.

Its not like it has fried my system....will not turn on whatsoever or squeals like a pig.

And by the way, there is absolutely not one single mfr. in business today that can claim 100% success with every single product that leaves their hands. If that were true, then you can also show me a mfr. that has elected to eliminate its Customer Service Department.

From what I understand, the affected units are so few in number, it does not even warrant a recall. So are you telling me you get this worked up over a few issues that you write a company off entirely?

Good luck on your zero tolerance policy.


----------



## Megalomaniac

ARCuhTEK said:


> I dont know of a better product to suit my needs.
> 
> I have not had any down time. My system sounds awesome, with some aggravation from the beeping and whine....but I unplug the DRC to eliinate the beeping and if I dont want whine I just shut the truck off. Maybe not for LONG....but it does give me a glimpse of what the Bit One can do for me.
> 
> It is still worth it.
> 
> *Its not like it has fried my system*....will not turn on whatsoever or squeals like a pig.
> 
> And by the way, there is absolutely not one single mfr. in business today that can claim 100% success with every single product that leaves their hands. If that were true, then you can also show me a mfr. that has elected to eliminate its Customer Service Department.
> 
> From what I understand, the affected units are so few in number, it does not even warrant a recall. So are you telling me you get this worked up over a few issues that you write a company off entirely?
> 
> Good luck on your zero tolerance policy.



great choice of words


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Megalomaniac said:


> great choice of words


Should I have been more grammatically correct?


----------



## Megalomaniac

ARCuhTEK said:


> Should I have been more grammatically correct?


No, I know someone who fried his tweeters because of the Bit1 not shutting off when he took his keys out.


----------



## capnxtreme

Autiophile said:


> ^^ That was two months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Suffice it to say, with the continued problems these units are exhibiting, and some of the suggested remedies from audison, their rep is damaged in my eyes.
> 
> This sort of performance would be bad for a beta test, let alone a product released to the public. Hard to believe it ever got out to the market in this condition. I've heard people say "this should be expected with a new product". No way. They have a duty to handle these issues before it hits the market. You release it to a select group of individuals, bound by a NDA, and see what issues are identified. Revise until ready for the public, then release.
> 
> Perhaps this was an attempt to beat the MS-8 to market. Pure speculation on my part. If that's the case, it has only further raised my level of interest in the MS-8 and diminished my interest in all things Audison.
> 
> I absolutely can not believe that some of you are tolerating this aggravation and downtime instead of simply demanding your money back so you can give it to a more deserving company for a product that works.


SERIOUSLY, I have been ****ing SPEECHLESS over here throughout the whole ordeal. It is absolutely 100% inexcusable. I don't care how nice the guys are on the phone... pulling apart your brand new $700 piece to file **** down is ROFL preposterous.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Megalomaniac said:


> No, I know someone who fried his tweeters because of the Bit1 not shutting off when he took his keys out.


First I have heard of that issue. I wonder how one determines exactly what kills a tweeter in a scenario like that? 

Has that been discussed here on DIYMA that you could provide a link to?


----------



## Megalomaniac

ARCuhTEK said:


> First I have heard of that issue. I wonder how one determines exactly what kills a tweeter in a scenario like that?
> 
> Has that been discussed here on DIYMA that you could provide a link to?


no it has not. Its just something I heard, I was just trying to kick you down, sarcasm man sarcasm


----------



## capnxtreme

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have not had any down time. My system sounds awesome, with some aggravation from the beeping and whine....but I unplug the DRC to eliinate the beeping and if I dont want whine I just shut the truck off.


Dude. :mean:


----------



## quality_sound

And how many people jumped all over me when I tried to be nice and warn people ahead of time???


----------



## ARCuhTEK

First of all, I never said that I unplug the DRC or turn the engine off as an ACCEPTABLE way around the product permanently. So get a grip. This is merely a way for me to be able to tell what quality the Bit One CAN deliver if and when it is correct. Do I unplug the DRC and listen to the system with the engine off....actually no. I have only done that during isolation experimenting just as you would if you were me. 

So NO those are not "acceptable compromises" in my mind and dont try to use my words in a way to support YOUR argument.

It is obvious you hate this product so badly, so I am uncertain why you even visit this thread. I guess it is something for you to do.

I love all the statements you have to support your argument, especially when you use the words "someone called Audison"....oh yeah......ONE person does an argument make. Or when you say "other *few* I've heard about have been noisy" which only speaks to the actual numbers YOU can offer up any any sort of justification to quantity (umm a few? are you serious?) While that may not enough to attribute 100% to YOUR argument per what you claim I said, it is enough for my argument, which is to say that you are basing your statements only on a "few." Basically you think that just because only ONE person has had positive comments, that means that Audison has issued only one truly successful flawless unit. Yep.....I am sure that this one person is the only viable cross section of success Audison has with the Bit One. 

Maybe I should call it a "darn near zero tolerance policy." Based on your comments I am willing to bet no mfr. could qualify to meet since any product would have to have VERY little issue.

On another note, I didnt jump on anyone for "warning" me. I may have pushed forward without heeding to a warning, but I didnt JUMP on anyone. Nonetheless, I am not posting here as a COMPLAINT board. Matter of fact, the only people I see complaining here are non-owners. The actual owners of the Bit One product seem to be willing to actually discuss the unit. Good, bad and ugly.

And for the person who said it is 100% inexcusable to ask someone to take a unit apart to trouble shoot it. I have to agree. I do. But let me offer this. Audison offered that method of diagnosis (not solution) only as a suggestion, basically to save time in proving to me they knew what the issues were with my system. They told me they were confident that if I took the case off and then plugged the unit in, I would see that a) they do indeed know that the issue is and b) I could feel confident too that the issue would be resolved if I sent the unit back into Electromedia.

Given the posts in this forum, based on others doing just that, I felt no need to remove the case. So I have NOT done so. My unit ships back to Electromdeia USA tomorrow.

I have not had any downtime with this unit to date, but I will obviously have down time as of tomorrow. I am sure that is unacceptable to some for $715 dollar unit, but for me, I know that the fastest easiest solution to the problem is to take a damn breather and let it happen. I could also spend a lot of damn time trying to find a different SP/xo and that (for me) could take weeks. We all have different tolerance levels and I am not beyond mine.


----------



## Technic

Autiophile said:


> Calm down, *windbag.*


I've never understood why the need to call people names in a _car audio_ discussion...


----------



## Buzzman

Wow, I can't believe how nasty this is turning. :surprised: And, the nastiness is not between the people who are having problems and Audison.  Go Figure. Well, I am not surprised by the latter, because I have had a lot of contact with Elettromedia USA and I find their customer service to be second to none. They have been incredibly accommodating with me. 

For those who care, I am one of those who has a Bit One with the current software and firmware, and I DON'T HAVE ANY problems. I can also say, unequivocally, that the Bit One is an outstanding component that will improve your system. You can read my review here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-most-worthwhile-addition-my-signal-path.html

Hopefully, Arcuhtek and the others having issues will have new units in their hands soon. They certainly had a lot greater sense of adventure than I would have had to try and resolve these issues on their own.


----------



## capnxtreme

Just because yours currently works, doesn't mean that the design isn't seriously flawed. For some, design enters the purchasing decision.

I would hope that support would be helpful to their beta testers.


----------



## FrankstonCarAudio

Well, I may as well throw my hat in the ring and state that my Bit-One has had no problems from the November 2008 date of purchase. It even has the 1.0.5.2 firmware (which I believe is the original).
I will also say that I consider this processor as one of the best available currently in its price range.
I updated from an Alpine H701 and the difference is night and day!
Whilst I miss the ability to make adjustment "on the fly" via the C701, the sonic advantages far outweigh this slight inconvenience.

Mark


----------



## BigRed

I just received my bit one. the version on the software is 1.1....is that the new version that has all the glitches worked out??


----------



## Technic

It is more than evident that whatever Electtromedia idea of a product introduction simply failed. The mere fact that at this early point of the re-release cases are to be open to fix noise issues, the DRC have issues and there are wires soldered in the PCB board at least tell me that units are being re-shuffled back to market with band aids instead of simply hold on a little and get the correct PCB board re-designed, re-tested with the correct DRC and then introduced as it should be. 

That's what I found absolutely unacceptable.

Again, with so few of these units sold, no visible marketing effort, high introductory price in a bad economy and technically a great processor, there should be no need to mess this thing up this way. It is not that the 3SIXTY and any of the Audiocontrol or Alpine processors are flying off the shelves right now...

Why I bought my unit although I knew about the firmware issues? Because before ordering this unit I was assured by email, by Electtromedia itself, that these units were completely updated and issue free. That my unit is so far working fine -although I briefly experienced DRC noises as well- doesn't mean that the units are actually issue free, as these stupid issues have shown. 

This is as simple as "customers beware".


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> Just because yours currently works, doesn't mean that the design isn't seriously flawed. For some, design enters the purchasing decision.
> 
> I would hope that support would be helpful to their beta testers.


Man, what is your problem?!! You seem unable to read what I say and understand what I say. Give it a rest already.


----------



## Buzzman

BigRed said:


> I just received my bit one. the version on the software is 1.1....is that the new version that has all the glitches worked out??


Hey Jim, the current software is version 1.3. The current firmware is version 1.0.7.1. I will send you my number by PM and I will walk you through what you need to do to confirm that you have the current software, etc.


----------



## capnxtreme

Buzzman said:


> Man, what is your problem?!! You seem unable to read what I say and understand what I say. Give it a rest already.


How does my ability to express my opinion hinder my reading comprehension?

Audison brought pre-alpha **** to market. I'm expressing my opinion that that is ********. Why does this personally offend you? I have no problem, other than expecting my money's worth when I shell out a large chunk of my paycheck for a product.


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> How does my ability to express my opinion hinder my reading comprehension?
> 
> Audison brought pre-alpha **** to market. I'm expressing my opinion that that is ********. Why does this personally offend you? I have no problem, other than expecting my money's worth when I shell out a large chunk of my paycheck for a product.


Your user name is truly reflective of your thought process. I never said you could not express your opinion. What I said was you clearly seem unable to read and understand what I say, even if written in clear, plain English. And, that there is no doubt about.


----------



## capnxtreme

Your unit works and support was helpful, I read that.

So what did I miss?

Why are you resorting to English language arguments in defense of your product choice? I'll ask again, why are you so personally offended that I think you made a poor product choice?


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> Your unit works and support was helpful, I read that.
> 
> So what did I miss?
> 
> Why are you resorting to English language arguments in defense of your product choice? I'll ask again, why are you so personally offended that I think you made a poor product choice?


See, you are further validating my points. Where did I say I was personally offended that you thought I made a poor product choice? And, futhermore, where did you say that I made a poor product choice? More importantly, do you think I give a rat's ass what you think about my product choice? No. I am enjoying my Bit One and that's all that matters to me.  And, at least I own one and can speak first hand about it virtues and flaws.


----------



## capnxtreme

smiley face semantics wink semantics grin semantics

I'm happy you are happy, dude.


----------



## hernanrod

Buzzman said:


> Hey Jim, the current software is version 1.3. The current firmware is version 1.0.7.1. I will send you my number by PM and I will walk you through what you need to do to confirm that you have the current software, etc.


Hi buzz, can you post here or send me by PM, how can I check tath, and how can I update soft and firm?

I currently run B1 with the DRC unplugged in order to eliminate the "morse code" noise.

I'm from Argentina and its not easy send and receive the B1 to repair, I'd like to try to update and fix on my own.

tankyou 



ps. if you can use "simple words" i will tanks, beacause i dont speak too much english


----------



## ErinH

For updates to software & firmware:

Audison :: Update

Login: bitone
Password: bitone


----------



## hernanrod

bikinpunk said:


> For updates to software & firmware:
> 
> Audison :: Update
> 
> Login: bitone
> Password: bitone


cool! thanks bikin!

I hope don't have any problem with that updates...

After update soft and firm I will write here if the problem was solved


----------



## quality_sound

BigRed said:


> I just received my bit one. the version on the software is 1.1....is that the new version that has all the glitches worked out??


You really think it'll be an improvement over the H900?


----------



## t3sn4f2

quality_sound said:


> You really think it'll be an improvement over the H900?


I sure don't....

IVA-D900/PXA-H900 combo review

Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity - Projection Systems Theater PC Case

"CD Source THD

It's pretty rare that a piece of equipment comes our way that pushes the limits of our own measuring equipment. The D900 was simply one of the cleanest pieces of equipment I have ever tested. Many home theater receivers are spec'ed at 0.05% THD and measure around 0.1%. There are harmonics that can be seen, but they are 95 dB on average lower than the 1 kHz tone. Speaking of noise floor, I was amazed to see the S/N ratio approach 110 dB. Keep in mind that all of these measurements were taken in the car, rather than in a test facility.

Listening to music, it was apparent that noise was completely inaudible. The only noise we noticed was from the CDs themselves."


----------



## wedoca

I hope the new updates/firmware will fix the issues some of you are having. Btw, what is the best all-around processor out there? Would the Focal Be Crossblock no. 7 be one of them?


----------



## capnxtreme

wedoca said:


> I hope the new updates/firmware will fix the issues some of you are having. Btw, what is the best all-around processor out there? Would the Focal Be Crossblock no. 7 be one of them?


Maybe if you consider a passive device a processor...............

Given the evidence in this thread, it's definitely not the BitOne.


----------



## MadOx75

Wow. I'm really disappointed having read this thread. I had Hertz speakers and an Audison amp installed last year, leaving the stock HU so I didnt lose my SYNC features, and I figured the Bit One would be the final piece to tie ti all together. Now I'm reluctant to try it.....


----------



## CraigE

MadOx75 said:


> Wow. I'm really disappointed having read this thread. I had Hertz speakers and an Audison amp installed last year, leaving the stock HU so I didnt lose my SYNC features, and I figured the Bit One would be the final piece to tie ti all together. Now I'm reluctant to try it.....



I've been following this thread, and then my 3Sixty.2 developed the BT problem, and had to be sent to RockfordFosgate for repair.
So.... there have been other, similar, products released with some problems.:smartass:
I installed the Bit 1 two weeks ago.
It had the latest software.
No problems whatsoever.
It works well with my Audison amps and stock nav/HU.
Audison, and RF for that matter, stand behind their products.
IMHO you have nothing to worry about .
Just do it.


----------



## MadOx75

CraigE said:


> I've been following this thread, and then my 3Sixty.2 developed the BT problem, and had to be sent to RockfordFosgate for repair.
> So.... there have been other, similar, products released with some problems.:smartass:
> I installed the Bit 1 two weeks ago.
> It had the latest software.
> No problems whatsoever.
> It works well with my Audison amps and stock nav/HU.
> Audison, and RF for that matter, stand behind their products.
> IMHO you have nothing to worry about .
> Just do it.



Thanks CraigE. I'm going to my installer next week to see about my sub install and hopefully I'll get some more reassurances from him about this thing. Don't want to spend an extra grand to have it installed and not have it work...


----------



## Buzzman

MadOx75 said:


> Wow. I'm really disappointed having read this thread. I had Hertz speakers and an Audison amp installed last year, leaving the stock HU so I didnt lose my SYNC features, and I figured the Bit One would be the final piece to tie ti all together. Now I'm reluctant to try it.....


Don't be. The problems of some, are not the problems of all.  I, and other Bit One owners can attest to that. It's also interesting, if you read this thread closely, that the ones having the problems were willing to put up with and try to deal with the problems given the sonic virtues of the Bit One. Also note that most, if not all, of those lobbing bombs are not owners of the item. Take that for what it's worth.


----------



## MadOx75

Buzzman said:


> Don't be. The problems of some, are not the problems of all.  I, and other Bit One owners can attest to that. It's also interesting, if you read this thread closely, that the ones having the problems were willing to put up with and try to deal with the problems given the sonic virtues of the Bit One. Also note that most, if not all, of those lobbing bombs are not owners of the item. Take that for what it's worth.


Points well taken.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I had problems with mine also, but I will try until they get it right. This is one great sounding unit. I want it in my set.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Update on my unit.

Shipped from North Carolina to Irvine Ca on 3/17/09. Just spoke to Yoseff Phillips and they received the unit. My new unit will leave Eletromedia USA tonight. I requested that the shipping be upgraded from ground method to overnight via FedEx (obviously at my expense) and they worked with me to make that happen.

She will be in my hands tomorrow.

Yoseff has been most helpful and easy to work with on the exchange. And for those of you who had previously asked if my dealer was authorized because he gave me (and many others on this forum) very good prices for the unit....well now you know. There were no issues due to my dealers authenticity.

I too hate that some posts are getting out of hand. Neither they, nor I have the true ability to judge the accuracy of any cross section of "good" versus "bad" Bit One units out there. Nor do we have that ability for any other product out there. The Bit One has generated tons of excitement and thus there are many sets of interested eyes on the product now. Yes it is true, history says new products have problems. Audison did not create this stereotype and cast it on the rest of us. Obviously problematic first launches have been around. That having been said, I look forward to seeing if this has been fixed with the introduction of a second unit to my system.

Let me say one final thing....for the doubters. When I was speaking to Yoseff, it was VERY obvious that my unit was the only one to arrive yesterday at Eletromedia USA. So if the Bit One is so bad, you would think that Yoseff would have to at least sort through a few of them to find mine. Nope.....mine was the only one.

That is not to say it is the only defective one out there....this forum makes it obvious there is more than one. But this forum does not make it obvious that there is a landslide of bad units, so we should not be judging the overall success of the product as such.

Just trying to be helpful.


----------



## capnxtreme

ARCuhTEK said:


> Audison did not create this stereotype and cast it on the rest of us.


wut?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

capnxtreme said:


> wut?


There has been so much junk on this thread about how badly Audison has handled the Bit One. Additionally, there have been lots of warnings about a newly introduced product. All I am saying is that bad handling of products and/or first release bugs are nothing new. I am neither saying Audison handled the Bit One wrong, nor am I saying they handled it correctly. Just that people are bashing Audison like they are the first to do so....when clearly we could pick on any mfr. and actually give examples of bad handling, bad customer service, bad design...etc. Just look a few posts above from the RF 362 customer. People are raving about the MS-8 and how careful handling is obviously occuring to make sure that product is just right when released. Baloney. First, to release information about a product YEARS before it is actually sold to the public can be a sign of poor processes, perhaps engineering that cannot deliver on promises and talk about eventually boring people with no news... All speculative on my part obviously. And do you think the MS-8 will have ZERO returns when it is sold to the public? If you do, lets talk privately and maybe I can get you interested in some ocean front property in Arizona.

Most of this all lies in opinions anyway as far as I am concerned.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> some ocean front property in Arizona.


George Strait wouldn’t appreciate you ripping him off. 


I have a lot of comments on your previous post but I’m holding my comments until the proper time presents itself. I don’t feel like dealing with the e-drama and naysayers who question those who have trouble, when they’ve had it themselves.


----------



## capnxtreme

ARCuhTEK said:


> All I am saying is that bad handling of products and/or first release bugs are nothing new.


Which is a pointless and trivial statement, that in no way suggests such "bugs" are acceptable.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> All I am saying is that bad handling of products and/or first release bugs are nothing new.



It's the people rolling over and accepting it that's new, and even more unacceptable. Manufacturers do it because we let them.


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> Update on my unit.
> 
> Shipped from North Carolina to Irvine Ca on 3/17/09. Just spoke to Yoseff Phillips and they received the unit. My new unit will leave Eletromedia USA tonight. I requested that the shipping be upgraded from ground method to overnight via FedEx (obviously at my expense) and they worked with me to make that happen.
> 
> She will be in my hands tomorrow.
> 
> Yoseff has been most helpful and easy to work with on the exchange. And for those of you who had previously asked if my dealer was authorized because he gave me (and many others on this forum) very good prices for the unit....well now you know. There were no issues due to my dealers authenticity.
> 
> I too hate that some posts are getting out of hand. Neither they, nor I have the true ability to judge the accuracy of any cross section of "good" versus "bad" Bit One units out there. Nor do we have that ability for any other product out there. The Bit One has generated tons of excitement and thus there are many sets of interested eyes on the product now. Yes it is true, history says new products have problems. Audison did not create this stereotype and cast it on the rest of us. Obviously problematic first launches have been around. That having been said, I look forward to seeing if this has been fixed with the introduction of a second unit to my system.
> 
> Let me say one final thing....for the doubters. When I was speaking to Yoseff, it was VERY obvious that my unit was the only one to arrive yesterday at Eletromedia USA. So if the Bit One is so bad, you would think that Yoseff would have to at least sort through a few of them to find mine. Nope.....mine was the only one.
> 
> That is not to say it is the only defective one out there....this forum makes it obvious there is more than one. But this forum does not make it obvious that there is a landslide of bad units, so we should not be judging the overall success of the product as such.
> 
> Just trying to be helpful.





Did you send it out next day air? Seems like it got there very quick.


----------



## linuxpro

I've decided to keep my first install simple, and will be selling my BitOne. I'm kind of bummed about selling it, but once I started in on the install process, I realized that going with a 3-way active front stage was way over my head at this point. This is my first install EVER, so I'm going to keep it simple and stick with the Hertz 3-way passive crossovers for now.

Look in the Classifieds to find my BitOne for a price under MSRP.

That will have to wait until I have 50 posts, apparently.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> I've decided to keep my first install simple, and will be selling my BitOne. I'm kind of bummed about selling it, but once I started in on the install process, I realized that going with a 3-way active front stage was way over my head at this point. This is my first install EVER, so I'm going to keep it simple and stick with the Hertz 3-way passive crossovers for now.
> 
> Look in the Classifieds to find my BitOne for a price under MSRP.
> 
> That will have to wait until I have 50 posts, apparently.


I have a full set up for a 3 way active front stage. But I have not set up the midrange, though i could at any time. The Bit One is fine for a 2 way front stage too. You dont have to utilize all 8 channels.

Let me know via PM how much for the Bit One. I might have a buyer at the right price.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

capnxtreme said:


> Which is a pointless and trivial statement, that in no way suggests such "bugs" are acceptable.





quality_sound said:


> It's the people rolling over and accepting it that's new, and even more unacceptable. Manufacturers do it because we let them.


This makes me laugh.

It basically suggests that only zero mistakes will be accepted. There is no man made product on the face of the earth, that has EVER been created with zero issues.

I am merely saying I am within my threshold for the product. Both of you seem to think the issues present in a few units are over the top. It is simply a disagreement about boundaries.

Now if my new unit has the same issues, I will change my tune, rest assured. But I do not wish to even think about a second option for a SP/xo/EQ for my car. Sure I can add four more pieces of equipment to replace it, but frankly I dont have the room to do so.

My HU had three sets of outputs and a base level eq with some xo choices...and I guess I will just opt to go that way.

Erin, if you want to discuss some of your thoughts PM, I am up for it.


----------



## quality_sound

I have "basically" said nothing. I made no inferences. The BitOne CAN be a great unit. But ANY manufacturer that thinks telling their customers to open their units up and start filing, shielding, etc. is a normal business practice should have their head checked. There is a difference between what is considered normal and the fiasco that has been the BitOne's launch. Audison has obviously rushed he product to market and is using the public as unpaid beta testers. I GUARANTEE you there a many more BitOnes with issues than the few being reported here. And no, I don't think this, I KNOW it. 

And since you seem to have missed it as well, I actually LIKE the BitOne. A LOT. This aspect of it's launch is what chaps my ass. 

Think of it like a car, your Porsche for example. What would you have done if you had an issue and Porsche told you to pop the hood, remove the head and start filing ****? 

This is no different.


----------



## Buzzman

quality_sound said:


> I have "basically" said nothing. I made no inferences. The BitOne CAN be a great unit. But ANY manufacturer that thinks telling their customers to open their units up and start filing, shielding, etc. is a normal business practice should have their head checked. There is a difference between what is considered normal and the fiasco that has been the BitOne's launch. Audison has obviously rushed he product to market and is using the public as unpaid beta testers. I GUARANTEE you there a many more BitOnes with issues than the few being reported here. And no, I don't think this, I KNOW it.
> 
> And since you seem to have missed it as well, I actually LIKE the BitOne. A LOT. This aspect of it's launch is what chaps my ass.
> 
> Think of it like a car, your Porsche for example. What would you have done if you had an issue and Porsche told you to pop the hood, remove the head and start filing ****?
> 
> This is no different.


I don't know how you "know that there are more Bit Ones with issues than the few being reported here," but I will assume that you have some prescient power that we don't know about. Perhaps you can enlighten on this Godlike ability you have.

On your other point, unless I am mistaken, nowhere was it stated that Elettromedia TOLD Archutek or anyone else to perform the DIY fixes. I suspect that the dialogue was more along the lines of IF you wish to do this you can, etc. But, Archutek and any others can shed light on that.

Finally, I just find it outrageous that you and others can express such strong feelings about the issues at hand when you don't own the product, have not experienced the problems, and had no direct dealings with Elettromedia USA.


----------



## quality_sound

Buzzman said:


> I don't know how you "know that there are more Bit Ones with issues than the few being reported here," but I will assume that you have some prescient power that we don't know about. Perhaps you can enlighten on this Godlike ability you have.


No, I just know people with a MUCH more direct connection to Elettromedia USA nd the truth with the BitOne than the PR that's been bantying about. No, I won't get into it any more than that.



> On your other point, unless I am mistaken, nowhere was it stated that Elettromedia TOLD Archutek or anyone else to perform the DIY fixes. I suspect that the dialogue was more along the lines of IF you wish to do this you can, etc. But, Archutek and any others can shed light on that.


I'm sure he will. Erin can as well. And if Elettromedia didn't to tell them to do it why would they risk voiding the warranty? 



> Finally, I just find it outrageous that you and others can express such strong feelings about the issues at hand when you don't own the product, have not experienced the problems, and had no direct dealings with Elettromedia USA.


Why do I have to own the _unit_ to take issue with the _situation_? Do I need to own a diamond mine to be allowed to take issues with slave labor used to mine said diamonds? Do I have to be Israeli or Palestinian to have an opinion on that situation?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Well here is my .02 for what it worth. The head tech recommends if you like you can open the unit and file or sand down the areas. Us as DIY more then like could do this with no problem, but us a the customer should not have to do this to a 700 dollar processor. Now from me talking to Customer Service about it, they (as in Elettromedia) agreed with me on that and said no one should have to do that. They will replace the unit with a new one. 

They sent me one out to the dealer I bought mine from and they even picked up the phone and called him to inform him of what was going on and that they will be sending him a new unit out the same day (I talked to them in the early AM) to replace my problematic one. I called him back about 30 mins after I got off the phone with CS and as soon as I identified who I was he said I he had just got a call from Elettromedia Customer Service and inform him that they will be shipping him out a replacement unit for me and I still had my unit in my hands, but at the request of the dealer, he requested that the unit be fully tested before shipping it out to him and that was fine with me. 

I kept him in the loop because if any other problems should come about and when I have reached my point of no return, I will be requesting a refund, but I hope this doesn't happen. But, believe me after hearing this unit, I will be a little more patient. Yep it sound that good to me, but i'm not going to be replacing 4 or 5 units to get a good one!!

My old unit is on its way back to the dealer and once I have my new unit in hand I prey it is problem free, it should be if they really tested it. I mean the firmware should be updated and all I would think if they truly do/did a complete test.

This unit has the making of something great, but Audison and their distributors need to start a testing process on the unit they receive and this would ensure only working/problem free units hit the dealers. This would stop all the f'ing returns and BS. Quality Control is the name of the game.


----------



## Ianaconi

Can you give more details on where to sand/file?

I am about to receive my unit, and I am afraid I will have this noise issues.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Ianaconi said:


> Can you give more details on where to sand/file?
> 
> I am about to receive my unit, and I am afraid I will have this noise issues.





Ianaconi said:


> Can you give more details on where to sand/file?
> 
> I am about to receive my unit, and I am afraid I will have this noise issues.


IIRC it's anywhere metal touches paint on the inside, EXCEPT! on the case screw through hole posts that touch contacts on the board on (you can see the contact for that on the first page of the thread). I would think it is pretty hard to know exactly where or if something is touching since there is no way to see it touch when the case is closed up. You'd have to have some pretty good spacial imagination. 

I'd send it back if it has a problem and get another.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here-I-Come said:


> *Yep it sound that good to me, but i'm not going to be replacing 4 or 5 units to get a good one!!*


Oh yes you will, and you will _like_ it!


----------



## Technic

Ianaconi said:


> Can you give more details on where to sand/file?
> 
> I am about to receive my unit, and I am afraid I will have this noise issues.


Just send it back if that happens...


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> Just send it back if that happens...


truth.

as DIY as I am, I don't think I'd bother unless I was in a pinch.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

t3sn4f2 said:


> Oh yes you will, and you will _like_ it!


You know what man you might be right :undecided::blush:


----------



## thbugman

I have a Bit One sitting in my garage.... Actually, might not even use it. BNIB Hmmmm


----------



## Buzzman

thbugman said:


> I have a Bit One sitting in my garage.... Actually, might not even use it. BNIB Hmmmm


Man, that's like having Jennifer Lopez sitting in your room and saying you might not want to grab her ass even though she will let you.  Get my drift? You never know how much pleasure you might have without trying it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

My Bit One, Round 2 has arrived. Four days total round trip from NC to CAli to NC. I had to pay extra, but lets go hook it up and see if she is genius or junk!

I will report back tonight.


----------



## volker

can't wait !


----------



## thbugman

Buzzman said:


> Man, that's like having Jennifer Lopez sitting in your room and saying you might not want to grab her ass even though she will let you.  Get my drift? You never know how much pleasure you might have without trying it.



Interesting analogy!! lol


----------



## ARCuhTEK

*DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!!!!! Open the curtains to reveal if my second Bit One is genius or junk!!!

*





























































*
JUNK!!!!*

New unit has same alt whine and even louder digital beeping than before. This time I recorded two videos of the issues. As soon as I can figure out how to get them posted here I will do so. And I found somethign new that I was able to record on video. Sounds like a UFO film capture..lol

No its not really new, just more revealing and just interesting; with the engine running and the HU and entire system on, including Bit One, I reached for my USB extension cable to connect her to my laptop and as soon as the metal flange of the USB cable touched the end metal of the Bit One USB cable...the digital beeping and engine whine immediately popped and got LOUD AS HELL....I mean so loud it hurt my ears!!!! The noise continued...until I turned the Bit One DRC volume knob and at that point the noise level had a huge drop in the digital beeping and whine (basically back to previous levels). I was able to reproduce this affect about 50% of the times I tried it (2 out of 4).


So....my time with the Bit One is over. It is now time for a refund. This is unacceptable. It is my fault that I paid two way overnight shipping, but I believed in the product and Audison Elettromedia USA.

I no longer believe in the product. They will have to issue a whole new product for me to venture their way again for signal processing.

So all of you who struggled with me over this issue...go ahead.....its your turn to laugh. I deserve it.


By the way....what other signal processors should I consider? The first one that comes to mind is the Zapco DSP6. Alpine has so many, I would like to hear from you on what to consider. Price is no issue.

I will go sulk for now.


----------



## linuxpro

That suxors, dude. Sorry to hear about your bad experience.

Did you try swapping all the cables that run to/from the Bit One? What you're talking about sounds like some kind of short or something weird. I would try replacing ALL cables - RCAs, speaker level cables (if any), the controller cable, USB, everything. Might not help, but hey, it's worth a shot at least.


----------



## nepl29

Wow, i was hoping for the best. Audison drop the ball big time.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> That suxors, dude. Sorry to hear about your bad experience.
> 
> Did you try swapping all the cables that run to/from the Bit One? What you're talking about sounds like some kind of short or something weird. I would try replacing ALL cables - RCAs, speaker level cables (if any), the controller cable, USB, everything. Might not help, but hey, it's worth a shot at least.


You are right, it might be worth a shot. While I was at it today, I unplugged the RCAs coming from the HU and then connected them into each amp (three total). For each amp tested, there was no alt whine and no digital beeping...only crystal clear music. Thats a pretty solid isolation experiment IMO.


----------



## linuxpro

ARCuhTEK said:


> You are right, it might be worth a shot. While I was at it today, I unplugged the RCAs coming from the HU and then connected them into each amp (three total). For each amp tested, there was no alt whine and no digital beeping...only crystal clear music. Thats a pretty solid isolation experiment IMO.


You should never hear "digital beeping" from RCAs. That's an analog signal, and EMI/RFI never comes through as bits. When I hear the beeping thing, I immediately think of any digital connections. When you described last time how the beeping only occurred while the controller unit was plugged in, it made me think there might be an issue with THAT cable - the one that connects the Bit One to the controller. Have you swapped that cable yet?

Also... have you tried running the Bit One without the controller plugged in? What happened? Do you still hear noise?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> *DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!!!!! Open the curtains to reveal if my second Bit One is genius or junk!!!
> 
> *
> 
> *
> JUNK!!!!*
> 
> New unit has same alt whine and even louder digital beeping than before. This time I recorded two videos of the issues. As soon as I can figure out how to get them posted here I will do so. And I found somethign new that I was able to record on video. Sounds like a UFO film capture..lol
> 
> No its not really new, just more revealing and just interesting; with the engine running and the HU and entire system on, including Bit One, I reached for my USB extension cable to connect her to my laptop and as soon as the metal flange of the USB cable touched the end metal of the Bit One USB cable...the digital beeping and engine whine immediately popped and got LOUD AS HELL....I mean so loud it hurt my ears!!!! The noise continued...until I turned the Bit One DRC volume knob and at that point the noise level had a huge drop in the digital beeping and whine (basically back to previous levels). I was able to reproduce this affect about 50% of the times I tried it (2 out of 4).
> 
> 
> So....my time with the Bit One is over. It is now time for a refund. This is unacceptable. It is my fault that I paid two way overnight shipping, but I believed in the product and Audison Elettromedia USA.
> 
> I no longer believe in the product. They will have to issue a whole new product for me to venture their way again for signal processing.
> 
> So all of you who struggled with me over this issue...go ahead.....its your turn to laugh. I deserve it.
> 
> 
> By the way....what other signal processors should I consider? The first one that comes to mind is the Zapco DSP6. Alpine has so many, I would like to hear from you on what to consider. Price is no issue.
> 
> I will go sulk for now.



Man thats bull, just F'ing crazy. I tell you if my new unit comes back with the same noise I going to loose it, because they were suppose to test the new unit before they ship/shipped it. My problem is now I may test car is gone. Its back in Jacksonville and not coming back this way anytime soon.

So how would I test the unit for noise on my bench, Without an o-scoop?

I have a Select Products Inteli Power 9160 power converter
Spec is as follows:

Input: 105-130 VAC, 60hz, 1000 watts
Output: 13.6 VDC, 60 Amp


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> So all of you who struggled with me over this issue...go ahead.....its your turn to laugh. I deserve it.


*Has held tongue whole time but is now saying it... .*

Welcome to my world. Did you also notice a huge drop in output, instantly after that loud pop and crash?

Be thankful you didn't blow anything.... 


I've got a ****ing laundry list on this piece and I've been holding my tongue for the past few days, and weeks hell, even MONTHS, actually. Since day one I've had NOTHING but problems. I don't even know where to start. Sure, the guys at Audison were great, but the product is still a POS. I'm sure someone's going to PM me docking me for blasting on this product but I don't care. I put hard earned money toward a product I believed in... enough to wait over 3 months to allow the product to get it's stuff together. Enough for me to spend over $30 shipping it back TWICE! Unfortunately, I don't have the time, nor the energy to say what I really want about it. 

To the blowhards who are going to say 'mine's fine'. WTF cares? There are actually those who have problems and THAT'S the bottom ****ing line. So, before you get all high and mighty, DON'T. Save it for people who enjoy paintings of teddy bears, bunny rabbits and sunshine. Because for over 3 months I've not had a working product in hand. And, numbnuts, it wasn't my install, nor any of ours... it was the product. So, for your own sake, think before you post something stupid.
Not once has this piece ever performed to an acceptable standard.
I can name 2 people besides those who've posted here with similar problems; they've just been laying low but they've contacted me and we all have the same issues. 

I've got my 3rd unit coming back to me eventually; I sent it off to them on Tuesday. We'll see what happens. But, I've already moved on and will not be running it in my install. Even if that sucker is 100%, I'm not dealing with it anymore.

*wipes hands*


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> You should never hear "digital beeping" from RCAs. That's an analog signal, and EMI/RFI never comes through as bits. When I hear the beeping thing, I immediately think of any digital connections. When you described last time how the beeping only occurred while the controller unit was plugged in, it made me think there might be an issue with THAT cable - the one that connects the Bit One to the controller. Have you swapped that cable yet?
> 
> Also... have you tried running the Bit One without the controller plugged in? What happened? Do you still hear noise?


I certainly realize that the digital beeping was not going to be reproduced via the RCAs directly to the amps. I was looking for signs of alt whine when I did that test.

No I have no used the new wires. But I will. I will try that, but I have low expectations. I have unplugged the RDC cable from the Bit One and when that occurs, the Bit One sounds much better with no digital beeping, but the alt whine is still present. Same as before when this test was conducted before.

I will go test the new cable now.


----------



## capnxtreme

I am sorry to hear that.

**** Audison. **** them in their stupid asses.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> Enough for me to spend over $30 shipping it back TWICE!


Erin,

Thanks for holding your tongue, perhaps not for my sake, but it helped me keep the faith until today. You deserve to speak your mind so I am glad to hear what you have to say.

$30 shipping? I spent $81 each way... So I spent $162 for overnight shipping. But only because I have some audio buddies coming over next week and I wanted it to be ready, after bragging about it for a while now....so much for that. Yeah I know...call me stupid for spending the extra dough...and I dont mean this is a condescending manner....but the costs were not an issue to me. I am still under budget on my system since I chose the DIY route. But I know...money is still money when wasted. It was definitely wasted.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> $30 shipping? I spent $81 each way... So I spent $162 for overnight shipping.


Now, that really sucks. 

But, be thankful you didn't lose more in equipment when your system went on the fritz.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> Now, that really sucks.
> 
> But, be thankful you didn't lose more in equipment when your system went on the fritz.


If it were to have affected my equipment, I would be very demanding of Audison. I have it on video, the crack and popping. Especially since they are acknowledging to me that they "know" that the issues are present and they "know" it is with the DRC.

When you see my video, it will be pretty darn obvious where the issue is...not that this is something you have not seen with your own eyes.


----------



## capnxtreme

Buzzman said:


> Man, that's like having Jennifer Lopez sitting in your room and saying you might not want to grab her ass even though she will let you.  Get my drift? You never know how much pleasure you might have without trying it.


Assuming Jennifer Lopez has AIDS, this seems like a pretty good analogy.


----------



## ErinH

capnxtreme said:


> Assuming Jennifer Lopez has AIDS, this seems like a pretty good analogy.


more like J Lo with Tourettes.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> more like J Lo with Tourettes.


:laugh:, smokem if you gottem (drivers that is)


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> *Has held tongue whole time but is now saying it... .*
> 
> Welcome to my world. Did you also notice a huge drop in output, instantly after that loud pop and crash?
> 
> Be thankful you didn't blow anything....
> 
> 
> I've got a ****ing laundry list on this piece and I've been holding my tongue for the past few days, and weeks hell, even MONTHS, actually. Since day one I've had NOTHING but problems. I don't even know where to start. Sure, the guys at Audison were great, but the product is still a POS. I'm sure someone's going to PM me docking me for blasting on this product but I don't care. I put hard earned money toward a product I believed in... enough to wait over 3 months to allow the product to get it's stuff together. Enough for me to spend over $30 shipping it back TWICE! Unfortunately, I don't have the time, nor the energy to say what I really want about it.
> 
> To the blowhards who are going to say 'mine's fine'. WTF cares? There are actually those who have problems and THAT'S the bottom ****ing line. So, before you get all high and mighty, DON'T. Save it for people who enjoy paintings of teddy bears, bunny rabbits and sunshine. Because for over 3 months I've not had a working product in hand. And, numbnuts, it wasn't my install, nor any of ours... it was the product. So, for your own sake, think before you post something stupid.
> Not once has this piece ever performed to an acceptable standard.
> I can name 2 people besides those who've posted here with similar problems; they've just been laying low but they've contacted me and we all have the same issues.
> 
> I've got my 3rd unit coming back to me eventually; I sent it off to them on Tuesday. We'll see what happens. But, I've already moved on and will not be running it in my install. Even if that sucker is 100%, I'm not dealing with it anymore.
> 
> *wipes hands*


Yep I had the same problem with mine. I just glad it don't F anything up, because it was not my car I tested it in, I built the car, but not mine. **** man this is starting to make me just want my money back, great sound or not.

So help me bench test mine.


----------



## braves6117

****ing ********. 

There is no way in hell these guys at electromedia are testing these units before shipping. They know the product is faulty, and I'm sure the engineers know why....


All I can say is:

ZAPCO DSP6 or DC Amps


----------



## ARCuhTEK

You guys ready for some video?????

I got video. Two videos. One is 2:44 long and the other is 4:10 long. But worth your time. I hope Elettromedia gets hold of this....I am really pissed off about it now.

Grab your popcorn....

But...watch the clock boys. In video 1 (part 1 of 2).....get ready for some weird **** at the 2:01 mark just as I plug in my USB cable. Note...I did NOT touch anything on the volume..etc.

Part 1
YouTube - Audison Bit One Signal Processor - MAJOR problems! Part 1 of 2


Part 2
YouTube - Audison Bit One Signal Processor - MAJOR problems! Part 1 of 2
Lets all sing the GOODBYE song!

And just so you know, I am going to post this on a separate thread. I just feel this particular thread is deep and might be overlooked. I know its redundant but I think it is worthwhile.

And hell yes...I will be asking for my money back.


----------



## linuxpro

The second video didn't work for me.

BTW, Joe told me he doesn't do refunds on the Bit One. Let me know if you get your money back. I'm trying to sell my Bit One, not because of the problems you've had (I haven't even taken mine out of the box), but because I've decided to go with a passive x-over setup.

Let me know if you have problems returning your unit, since we both got it from the same dealer.

To be honest, if Joe doesn't let me return mine, I'm going to warn everyone here from buying from that dealer. I've never heard of a retailer that doesn't allow you to exchange/return a purchase when it hasn't even been a week since purchase and it was never opened (and still in the unopened box).

If I'm getting that kind of answer, I'm not sure what he's going to tell you. In any case, let me know what happens.


----------



## linuxpro

Oh, and I gotta tell ya after seeing the first video, that DEFINITELY seems like a cable issue. Have you swapped out all the cables that go from the Bit One to the DRC controller?


----------



## braves6117

Auto Dupe


----------



## braves6117

linuxpro said:


> The second video didn't work for me.
> 
> BTW, Joe told me he doesn't do refunds on the Bit One. Let me know if you get your money back. I'm trying to sell my Bit One, not because of the problems you've had (I haven't even taken mine out of the box), but because I've decided to go with a passive x-over setup.
> 
> Let me know if you have problems returning your unit, since we both got it from the same dealer.
> 
> To be honest, if Joe doesn't let me return mine, I'm going to warn everyone here from buying from that dealer. I've never heard of a retailer that doesn't allow you to exchange/return a purchase when it hasn't even been a week since purchase and it was never opened (and still in the unopened box).
> 
> If I'm getting that kind of answer, I'm not sure what he's going to tell you. In any case, let me know what happens.



What? That doesn't sound right at all. If you purchased a product legit and its defective, you by all means have the ability to return it. Are you sure he didn't breach his end of the contract with Audison?


----------



## linuxpro

One reason I think it might be the cable is that the volume of the feedback is consistent no matter what. That tells me there is some kind of feedback that isn't being filtered, or there is a short in the path, something like that. you only hear that noise when the DRC is plugged in? I would swap the DRC cable and USB cable, perhaps re-position them in the car somewhere, see if you notice any change.


----------



## linuxpro

braves6117 said:


> What? That doesn't sound right at all. If you purchased a product legit and its defective, you by all means have the ability to return it. Are you sure he didn't breach his end of the contract with Audison?


I have no idea whether or not it is defective. I opened the box once to look at the Bit One, checked the software version on the CD (it is current) and then put everything back.

Then I went out to my car to install the amp and discovered that the amp is way too big for my car, and that it would be nearly impossible to route 6 RCAs from the cabin to the trunk in my tiny SLK-350. Not to mention, I just want to keep my first install simple. I can tell I'm getting in over my head, and have learned the hard way when to call "uncle" and not get myself in further.

Joe, the dealer, told me he never keeps more than one unit in stock and that he already has one in stock. He didn't want to give me the refund.

I'm in the market for an LRx or VRx (they actually fit in my trunk unlike the HUGE McIntosh 6-channel amp) and want to give him my business for that amp, but if he refuses to exchange or refund the Bit One, I don't think I'll do business with him again.

The whole reason I went to an authorized dealer was so I'd have recourse if something bad happened, if I needed to return or exchange the device. So far, that doesn't appear possible with this dealer. 

If I don't get a more satisfactory answer soon, I will post his info just so that nobody else purchases Hertz/Audison equipment from him. It's ridiculous that he isn't letting me refund/exchange the Bit One, especially considering that it's brand new, less than 2 weeks old, and that I never even took it out of its wrapper.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Videos fixed.

No the beeping does get louder when the volume knob is tweaked. I show that in the video.

Just so you know, Audison did not include new cables with the new unit. They did tell me that they would not put in anything new that I did not return with the product. Since Audison told me they knew the issue was the DRC, aand my cables are tied down, hidden, etc...I chose to leave them in place. So I do not have new cables to test.

That having been said, I have no way to test that theory.


----------



## linuxpro

ARCuhTEK said:


> Videos fixed.
> 
> No the beeping does get louder when the volume knob is tweaked. I show that in the video.
> 
> Just so you know, Audison did not include new cables with the new unit. They did tell me that they would not put in anything new that I did not return with the product. Since Audison told me they knew the issue was the DRC, aand my cables are tied down, hidden, etc...I chose to leave them in place. So I do not have new cables to test.
> 
> That having been said, I have no way to test that theory.



Then that DRC is introducing feedback into the signal path, from the looks of it. Ugh. That is not good. Wish I knew about all this before I went out and bought it from a guy who doesn't appear anxious to help me with an exchange/refund. Argh. I've got this sinking feeling in my gut.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Videos fixed.
> 
> No the beeping does get louder when the volume knob is tweaked. I show that in the video.
> 
> Just so you know, Audison did not include new cables with the new unit. They did tell me that they would not put in anything new that I did not return with the product. Since Audison told me they knew the issue was the DRC, aand my cables are tied down, hidden, etc...I chose to leave them in place. So I do not have new cables to test.
> 
> That having been said, I have no way to test that theory.


That is the funkiest thing I've heard from a stereo  I mean holy ****.

I have major respect for you giving the bitone a second chance, but to have this crap as a result just plain sucks. 

Regarding returns, I would call audison and ask about how to properly return your unit, especially ones that induce noise. There is no way an authorized purchase that is defective can't be returned unless someone did something fishy.

Regarding changing your mind for install linux, that may not fall under a returnable reason....


----------



## braves6117

oh and ALSO, did anyone notice another you tube video post with THE SAME NOISE!!!


----------



## Technic

braves6117 said:


> oh and ALSO, did anyone notice another you tube video post with THE SAME NOISE!!!


Just... wow. 

This reminds me so much of the *3* 3SIXTY.2 units in less than 6 months that I used to have... one after the other with some funky ****. 

This proves -without absolute question- that Electtromedia is really replacing units sent with defects with the same ones that show up damaged before... without even looking at them, without any new PCB board, without any serious troubleshooting. 

What we really have here is not people with units that work and people with defective units... what we have is a _lottery_.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

linuxpro said:


> The second video didn't work for me.
> 
> *BTW, Joe told me he doesn't do refunds on the Bit One.* Let me know if you get your money back. I'm trying to sell my Bit One, not because of the problems you've had (I haven't even taken mine out of the box), but because I've decided to go with a passive x-over setup.
> 
> Let me know if you have problems returning your unit, since we both got it from the same dealer.
> 
> *To be honest, if Joe doesn't let me return mine, I'm going to warn everyone here from buying from that dealer. I've never heard of a retailer that doesn't allow you to exchange/return a purchase when it hasn't even been a week since purchase and it was never opened (and still in the unopened box).*
> 
> If I'm getting that kind of answer, I'm not sure what he's going to tell you. In any case, let me know what happens.



Ok now i'm worried, I will be calling him tomorrow. I bet you they didn't test my replacement unit like Joe ask them to before they shipped it out or if he even really ask them to, maybe he said that to to me to try and cover his ass somewhat if the second unit is bad. I haven't talked with Melody Elettromedia USA since i last talked with Joe. I will be called Melody back on Monday AM to find out if he really ask them to test it. OK now I getting Pissed, because my thoughts are going crazy. I'm thinking I foresee a plane ticket to NC in my very near future. 

I'm with you on the second bold part also. I don't have that kind of money to be throwing around/away like this. If my second unit is bad and he want return my money I will be reporting him to the BBB and calling his local reporting agency (can't think of the name of them off the top of my head at the moment getting more pissed). I just hope I get a good unit. 

*Also if he didn't state he didn't do returns on this product he has to refund your money and I think everyone that bought one from him can justify that he did not state this at the time of purchase. I know I can.*


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Technic said:


> Just... wow.
> 
> This proves -without absolute question- that Electtromedia is really replacing units sent with defects with the same ones that show up damaged before... without even looking at them, without any new PCB board, without any serious troubleshooting.
> 
> What we really have here is not people with units that work and people with defective units... what we have is a _lottery_.


You know you may be right. HMMMM


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here-I-Come said:


> Ok now i'm worried, I will be calling him tomorrow. I bet you they didn't test my replacement unit like Joe ask them to before they shipped it out or if he even really ask them to, maybe he said that to to me to try and cover his ass somewhat if the second unit is bad. I haven't talked with Melody Elettromedia USA since i last talked with Joe. I will be called Melody back on Monday AM to find out if he really ask them to test it. OK now I getting Pissed, because my thoughts are going crazy. I'm thinking I foresee a plane ticket to NC in my very near future.
> 
> I'm with you on the second bold part also. I don't have that kind of money to be throwing around/away like this. If my second unit is bad and he want return my money I will be reporting him to the BBB and calling his local reporting agency (can't think of the name of them off the top of my head at the moment getting more pissed). I just hope I get a good unit.
> 
> *Also if he didn't state he didn't do returns on this product he has to refund your money and I think everyone that bought one from him can justify that he did not state this at the time of purchase. I know I can.*


Will you keep it if the new one is ok? I don't think I could trust it to not happen later on if I hit a bump in the road or something like that.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

If I do not get a full refund, trust me...I will file a lawsuit....more like a class action lawsuit. First step is to call Elettromedia. If they refer me back to Joe...I will let then know of Joes policy. It is nonsense...just nonsense.

So umm would anyone like for me to add some fuel to the fire right about now?

How about an entirely new issue just discovered a few moments ago. Totally new design flaw.

When I do an initial install of the Bit One (software already installed on laptop)...so technically this is the initial "setup" of the unit....and I am controlling the Bit One from the laptop the system sounds great (yes the whine and Beep are there) but if I touch even one button.....of any kind on the Bit One software my entire left stage drops out. No sound from the tweeter or midbass. NONE. As if I dont even have speakers.

I can reinitialize the Bit One (restore factory settings) and shut the software down. Turn the system off...etc. Turn system back on....Bit One back on, the start over with a new set up. The system sounds fine.....touch one button and boom the left stage drops out again.

Someone hand me a gun, I need to put it out of its misery!

Oh BTW....I could not for the life of me get my videos to embed. I KNOW how to use the YT tags to embed a video...but for some reason it did not work on this forum. Is there a trick? I have done it many times on other forums.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

linuxpro said:


> Joe, the dealer, told me he never keeps more than one unit in stock and that he already has one in stock. He didn't want to give me the refund.



Thats totally retarded. IF a unit is defective it is irrelevant how many he has on the shelves. He should not be concerned about re-selling crap, but providing quality equipment for his EXISTING customers.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Oh for ****s sake...I just realized I have to redo my system diagram (see sig)....AGAIN. That damned thing took as long as the system install (kidding).


----------



## t3sn4f2

ARCuhTEK said:


> Oh BTW....I could not for the life of me get my videos to embed. I KNOW how to use the YT tags to embed a video...but for some reason it did not work on this forum. Is there a trick? I have done it many times on other forums.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Seriously....I KNOW how to do that but I tried again to make that happen without success. Can you tell me here or in PM how you did that?

I simply copied the "embed" data from You Tube and then insrted it between the you tube "tags" offered here.

What gives? *Nevermind....I finally figured it out!*

Thank you by the way.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Oh for ****s sake...I just realized I have to redo my system diagram (see sig)....AGAIN. That damned thing took as long as the system install (kidding).


You crack me up :laugh: 


Anyways, I feel my earlier point still remains. If you purchased your unit authorized and its defective, you are entitled to a full refund.

However, didn't some people purchase the unit out of state, something Audison technically doesn't allow if a closer dealer is at hand? I mean, it could be he ****ed up the rules according to Audison and they won't allow him to return the product once he issues a refund to you...

Either way, Joe would be dead meat if he dare deny me a refund had I purchased a unit.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

braves6117 said:


> You crack me up :laugh:
> 
> 
> Anyways, I feel my earlier point still remains. If you purchased your unit authorized and its defective, you are entitled to a full refund.
> 
> However, didn't some people purchase the unit out of state, something Audison technically doesn't allow if a closer dealer is at hand? I mean, it could be he ****ed up the rules according to Audison and they won't allow him to return the product once he issues a refund to you...
> 
> Either way, Joe would be dead meat if he dare deny me a refund had I purchased a unit.




For me, I'm not worry as the only dealer near me couldn't order one as I found at SBN. They have a open none pay account and couldn't order anything from else from Audison, now I know why they never returned my phone calls about ordering a BitOne after I talked to them. So I had to go else where. Straight from the Audison South East Rep mouth at SBN, and I already knew the Rep as he use to come to my Shop.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> If I do not get a full refund, trust me...I will file a lawsuit....more like a class action lawsuit. First step is to call Elettromedia. If they refer me back to Joe...I will let then know of Joes policy. It is nonsense...just nonsense.
> 
> So umm would anyone like for me to add some fuel to the fire right about now?
> 
> How about an entirely new issue just discovered a few moments ago. Totally new design flaw.
> 
> When I do an initial install of the Bit One (software already installed on laptop)...so technically this is the initial "setup" of the unit....and I am controlling the Bit One from the laptop the system sounds great (yes the whine and Beep are there) but if I touch even one button.....of any kind on the Bit One software my entire left stage drops out. No sound from the tweeter or midbass. NONE. As if I dont even have speakers.
> 
> I can reinitialize the Bit One (restore factory settings) and shut the software down. Turn the system off...etc. Turn system back on....Bit One back on, the start over with a new set up. The system sounds fine.....touch one button and boom the left stage drops out again.
> 
> Someone hand me a gun, I need to put it out of its misery!
> 
> Oh BTW....I could not for the life of me get my videos to embed. I KNOW how to use the YT tags to embed a video...but for some reason it did not work on this forum. Is there a trick? I have done it many times on other forums.


Yep my first unit done this also. I thought it maybe because I was using the DRC for volume control and it start to flake out and the unit would default back to the DRC settings, but even with the DRC unplugged it would did it. I told the tech about it and he said that was strange. HMMMMM


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> Yep my first unit done this also. I thought it maybe because I was using the DRC for volume control and it start to flake out and the unit would default back to the DRC settings, but even with the DRC unplugged it would did it. I told the tech about it and he said that was strange. HMMMMM


Okay so now we have went from "alt whine" issues that are allegedly caused by the paint on the unit....to digital pulsing that Audison is allegedly "working on a adapter fix that will be available in a few weeks" (told to me directly by Audison) now onto entire channels dropping out of the processors signal path.

Sorry folks....this is just one FKD UP piece of JUNK. For those of you who have working units...you either got really lucky, or you have yes to discover problems. I am thinking the latter. Sorry to be such a pessimist today for those that love their Bit One.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Okay so now we have went from "alt whine" issues that are allegedly caused by the paint on the unit....to digital pulsing that Audison is allegedly "working on a adapter fix that will be available in a few weeks" (told to me directly by Audison) now onto entire channels dropping out of the processors signal path.
> 
> Sorry folks....this is just one FKD UP piece of JUNK. For those of you who have working units...you either got really lucky, or you have yes to discover problems. I am thinking the latter. Sorry to be such a pessimist today for those that love their Bit One.


So do they plan to issue these Adapter to everyone that already owns a BitOne free of charge? If not that would really be F'ed up. 

I wonder what would happen if you take the board out of a new unit before you ever fire it up and then try it that way. Do you think the ground loop issues with the case could be causing the unit to flake. I know a ground issue with alarm gave my hell in a custom car of one my customers. I don't install the alarm from he so I don't think to look at it and I wouldn't have thought something with such low current demands could cause that many problems. I mean everything the car was going crazy, head lights would go dim every once in awhile the Avic Z3 screen would dim amps would cut out and the battery would always die on him. 

I went thru everything I had installed and everything was ok. I mean I took everything out tested it on the bench and it was fine. Re-installed it would go crazy. Then i notice every once in a while the alarm would not unlock the door and the armed and unarmed chirps where very low. I go in pull the dash down check the alarm everything looked Ok then I notice they ground it to a very thin piece of metal under the dash, I moved it to factory ground spot in the drivers kick panel and everything was OK after that. I his battery hasn't died since then, no problem at all after that. I simple ground from the alarm.


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> Okay so now we have went from "alt whine" issues that are allegedly caused by the paint on the unit....to digital pulsing that Audison is allegedly "working on a adapter fix that will be available in a few weeks" (told to me directly by Audison) now onto entire channels dropping out of the processors signal path.
> 
> Sorry folks....this is just one FKD UP piece of JUNK. For those of you who have working units...you either got really lucky, or you have yes to discover problems. I am thinking the latter. Sorry to be such a pessimist today for those that love their Bit One.


HAHAHAHA :laugh::laugh: Adapters......


----------



## wedoca

Wow, now I gotta think it over before getting the Bit One, sorry to hear that about the product. What other processors are out there is better/equi to the Bit1?


----------



## slvrtsunami

The funny thing is that I was an Audison rep for a couple months in 1990-1992. I think that was when they first came to the US. Anyway, as with most Italian design equipment, there has to be an understanding of passion. The designers and engineers put so much passion in building their products that sometimes (more often than not) things 'slip' through the cracks. 

I think in this case, the cracks were as wide as the grand canyon. I do feel for the people that put their hard earned money for this processor, and for them to possibly be stuck with them and deal with a serious depreciation (because of flaws) is ridiculous. I hope things work out in the end.


----------



## thbugman

I'm don't even want to take it out of the box now! lol Think i'm selling it!


----------



## CraigE

Is everyone, that is having problems, connected to the HU w/ optical cable ?
I'm connected to the stock Nav/HU with RCA's (line level) and have no problems.


----------



## kyheng

If I were to get 1 piece of this junk cheap from Flebay, first thing I will do is remove the junk opamps and change it to better ones. If still got such problem, then I just throw it out..
Anyway if just the whine, I may think it is just because of Pioneer HU's problem, but that tak, tak tak sound I really cannot figure it out...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Is everyone, that is having problems, connected to the HU w/ optical cable ?
> I'm connected to the stock Nav/HU with RCA's (line level) and have no problems.



I have an Pioneer D3 HU running RCAs to the Bit One. No digital output for me on this install.

And to others.....for the 100th time....the alt whine goes away when the Bit One is taken out of the signal path, i.e. when I connect my Hu directly to my amps via the SAME RCAs....in fact, the signal is crystal clear when directly connected. 

The alt whine....ISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS caused by the Bit One.


----------



## volker

So, to sum up:

- Alt whine when BitOne in signal path
- no alt whine when BitOne bypassed

Could it be that the issue is for this with the Ground for the BitOne ?

- digital beeping when DRC connected
- no digital beeping when DRC disconnected/bypassed by USB connection
- other strange noise when connecting Laptop via USB

Anything else ?


----------



## Technic

Here-I-Come said:


> *Also if he didn't state he didn't do returns on this product he has to refund your money and I think everyone that bought one from him can justify that he did not state this at the time of purchase. I know I can.*


Joe did state that returns are accepted when I bought mine. In fact, when my initial problem with the input levels was revealed I told him that if this was not solved I was sending my unit back for a refund and he did not have any problem with that.

Furthermore, in the worst case of a vendor not accepting returns for defective items sold I can always notify my credit card company and stop payment on the item as long as I can show proof of returning the item to the vendor. In the last year I did just that 4 times with eBay vendors that were simply scumbags, selling items either broke or not new as posted. I got my money back all 4 times.

Credit cards have another layer of protection on top of whatever PayPal or the vendor offers -if anything. Just ask your credit card company for details and what you must do on your part to enforce those protections in your favor.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Technic said:


> Joe did state that returns are accepted when I bought mine. In fact, when my initial problem with the input levels was revealed I told him that if this was not solved I was sending my unit back for a refund and he did not have any problem with that.
> 
> Furthermore, in the worst case of a vendor not accepting returns for defective items sold I can always notify my credit card company and stop payment on the item as long as I can show proof of returning the item to the vendor. In the last year I did just that 4 times with eBay vendors that were simply scumbags, selling items either broke or not new as posted. I got my money back all 4 times.
> 
> Credit cards have another layer of protection on top of whatever PayPal or the vendor offers -if anything. Just ask your credit card company for details and what you must do on your part to enforce those protections in your favor.


There you have it. He can not change is policy for one person to the next.


----------



## Buzzman

First, I feel really bad for Archutek and the others having the problems discussed here. If I were in their shoes, I am sure I would feel the same way. I haven't had any problems with my Bit One, and I was hopeful that they would have gotten a working unit on the second try. After going through what they have, I don't blame them for wanting to throw in the towel and get their money back. 

As to the right to a refund, you will generally have this right under most consumer protection laws. This right is based on the the warranty of merchantability that comes with every product sold. If the vendor was not an authorized dealer of the product you will have problems however, because the manufacturer is generally not going to be found legally obligated to stand behind the product in cases where they have not authorized or sanctioned the sale. The view is that they no longer have control over the product and cannot be held liable for defects that may have been caused by mishandling, etc. attributable to the vendor. That is why if you look on eBay, for example, most of those vendors offering great deals on popular brands state that any warranty they offer is provided by them, not the manufacturer. I should also point out that notwithstanding this, many authorized vendors state on their sales receipts that they do not offer refunds, only exchanges. So, don't confuse a willingness to accept a return with a willingness to issue a refund on a used item. But, if after a number of exchanges you cannot get a product that works satisfactorily, a refund is in order. Most (probably all by now) states have what are referred to as "lemon laws" to ensure this. You see this in particular with cars. But understand that it is the *manufacturer *that is ultimately liable. Assuming that the units that have proved to be problematical were purchased from an authorized seller, and assuming that you can show the unit was properly installed and used, you absolutely should be able to get a refund. The dealer will have to make the claim through Elettromedia.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> First, I feel really bad for Archutek and the others having the problems discussed here. If I were in their shoes, I am sure I would feel the same way. I haven't had any problems with my Bit One, and I was hopeful that they would have gotten a working unit on the second try. After going through what they have, I don't blame them for wanting to throw in the towel and get their money back.
> 
> As to the right to a refund, you will generally have this right under most consumer protection laws. This right is based on the the warranty of merchantability that comes with every product sold. If the vendor was not an authorized dealer of the product you will have problems however, because the manufacturer is generally not going to be found legally obligated to stand behind the product in cases where they have not authorized or sanctioned the sale. The view is that they no longer have control over the product and cannot be held liable for defects that may have been caused by mishandling, etc. attributable to the vendor. That is why if you look on eBay, for example, most of those vendors offering great deals on popular brands state that any warranty they offer is provided by them, not the manufacturer. I should also point out that notwithstanding this, many authorized vendors state on their sales receipts that they do not offer refunds, only exchanges. So, don't confuse a willingness to accept a return with a willingness to issue a refund on a used item. But, if after a number of exchanges you cannot get a product that works satisfactorily, a refund is in order. Most (probably all by now) states have what are referred to as "lemon laws" to ensure this. You see this in particular with cars. But understand that it is the *manufacturer *that is ultimately liable. Assuming that the units that have proved to be problematical were purchased from an authorized seller, and assuming that you can show the unit was properly installed and used, you absolutely should be able to get a refund. The dealer will have to make the claim through Elettromedia.



Joe is a authorized dealer confirmed by Elettromedia and no such statement on the sales receipt. I haven't gotten my second unit yet and i'm preying its a good one, as I really want this unit in my signal path as I feel in love with iys sonic signature, but I don't want a POS.


----------



## slvrtsunami

Buzzman said:


> First, I feel really bad for Archutek and the others having the problems discussed here. If I were in their shoes, I am sure I would feel the same way. I haven't had any problems with my Bit One, and I was hopeful that they would have gotten a working unit on the second try. After going through what they have, I don't blame them for wanting to throw in the towel and get their money back.
> 
> As to the right to a refund, you will generally have this right under most consumer protection laws. This right is based on the the warranty of merchantability that comes with every product sold. If the vendor was not an authorized dealer of the product you will have problems however, because the manufacturer is generally not going to be found legally obligated to stand behind the product in cases where they have not authorized or sanctioned the sale. The view is that they no longer have control over the product and cannot be held liable for defects that may have been caused by mishandling, etc. attributable to the vendor. That is why if you look on eBay, for example, most of those vendors offering great deals on popular brands state that any warranty they offer is provided by them, not the manufacturer. I should also point out that notwithstanding this, many authorized vendors state on their sales receipts that they do not offer refunds, only exchanges. So, don't confuse a willingness to accept a return with a willingness to issue a refund on a used item. But, if after a number of exchanges you cannot get a product that works satisfactorily, a refund is in order. Most (probably all by now) states have what are referred to as "lemon laws" to ensure this. You see this in particular with cars. But understand that it is the *manufacturer *that is ultimately liable. Assuming that the units that have proved to be problematical were purchased from an authorized seller, and assuming that you can show the unit was properly installed and used, you absolutely should be able to get a refund. The dealer will have to make the claim through Elettromedia.


 

God you sound like a lawyer!! Love it!! please be sure to include contact info. for future legal questions regarding the Bit One!


----------



## braves6117

Also keep in mind that the original person who was told "no refunds" does not know if his unit is defective....and did not state whether or not Joe allowed an exchange. I know plenty of vendors who don't give refunds because you changed your mind after a couple weeks. At the most, they'll give you store credit.


----------



## Technic

braves6117 said:


> Also keep in mind that the original person who was told "no refunds" *does not know if his unit is defective*....and did not state whether or not Joe allowed an exchange. *I know plenty of vendors who don't give refunds because you changed your mind after a couple weeks. * At the most, they'll give you store credit.


That's true too...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

IN response to Volker:

Summary:

*Alt Whine*
1. Alt whine when BitOne in signal path and DRC is connected and active.
2. no alt whine when BitOne bypassed (connect RCAs directly to amps)
3. Alt whine when Bit One is in signal path and DRC is disconnected and inactive (laptop active).
*
Digital "Morse Code" beeping*
1. digital beeping when DRC connected and active.
2. no digital beeping when DRC bypassed by USB connection and laptop is active.
3. No digital beeping when black AC-Link cable is disconnected from Bit One input.
*
Strange noises, popping, increase in entire system volume*
1. As seen in my video, Part 1 of 2 at 2:01, when I touch my USB cable to the Bit One USB cable, the entire system pops and instantly the entire system volume goes bezerk and gets really loud.

2. In my video Part 2 of 2, I again touch the two USB cables together and the volume instantly quietens down (back to previous volume levels).
*
Speakers being dropped from the Bit One signal path.*
1. After initial set up of the Bit One hardware using I/O setup wizard, all speakers in the system work fine. Immediately upon tweaking any button on the laptop software, some speakers are being dropped from the Bit one signal path.

2. My entire system (all speakers) were dropped from the Bit One signal path as of this morning. I have no music whatsoever coming through the drivers. I further verified this by toggling on my center channel which is connected through high level outputs from the HU directly to the center channel speaker. Bit One was NOT on mute.


Could it be that the issue is for this with the Ground for the BitOne ?

I do not think so....as seen in this photo, every single piece of equipment in my install (except HU) is connected and grounded via the same path through my ground distribution block. Keep in mind, when I bypass the Bit One and connect the amps and Hu directly to one another....the amps have the same ground throughout all testing (and is the same as the Bit One).


----------



## ErinH

this is just one of many reasons I charge via CC. Luckily, the person who I purchased mine from said he would refund me the money. If not, then it would be time to bring in AMEX and let them take care of it. I've had to go down that path once a year ago and they did a damn fine job of it. In fact, after all was said and done, the return was made AND the person who the item was purchased from just told me to keep the item, so it was used for parts later. 

This is why I recommend always charging electronics on CC. Even through PP. But, in my case, the dealer has offered a refund so I should be in good shoes and not have to worry about bringing anyone else into this fiasco.


----------



## ErinH

and furthermore...





ARCuhTEK said:


> instantly there was a pop and the volume level of the digital beeping and the alt whine were MASSIVELY amplified four fold with no other adjustments made to the system at that moment.



The 2nd unit also went on the fritz and screeched extremely loud (just like Kevin's stated in his OP)... but in that case, it blew out scanspeak d2904 tweeters.  
So, not only am I out the time (time is money) I spent installing 2 of these units, and returning 2, but I'm also out $400 in speakers that is "my fault" because I wasn't supposed to plug the DRC in with the unit on... though when the drc was connected it emitted beeping noise and I had to leave it removed unless I wanted to hear it beep... and the only way I could change sub level was to plug it back in. But, yep, it's my fault, even though it was the only workaround and no one ever made note of that being an issue (how many times have you unplugged your cat5 cable from your computer without issues).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

My unit was charged via CC too. I have used the CC company as a safety net before and I will use them again. If I were the only one having these issues I might be worried that someone would blame the install. Since posting my own thread on the B1Junk, I have heard from no less than half dozen people who have not only stated they ARE currently experiencing the exact same issues, but even the same issues down to certain speakers dropping out of the signal path. Now folks.....50 million Elvis fans CANNOT be wrong. I may be a DIY virgin, but I think you can give me more credit than your average 16 yo with a bass hard on.
*
Oh and BTW I wanted to personally thank those people within this thread who were on the opposite side of the debates from me....thank you for not flaming the situation even more. I appreciate everyone's feedback, even though sometimes we do not always agree. Keep up the opinions, we need them all.*


----------



## braves6117

bikinpunk said:


> and furthermore...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2nd unit also went on the fritz and screeched extremely loud (just like Kevin's stated in his OP)... but in that case, it blew out scanspeak d2904 tweeters.
> So, not only am I out the time (time is money) I spent installing 2 of these units, and returning 2, but I'm also out $400 in speakers that is "my fault" because I wasn't supposed to plug the DRC in with the unit on... though when the drc was connected it emitted beeping noise and I had to leave it removed unless I wanted to hear it beep... and the only way I could change sub level was to plug it back in. But, yep, it's my fault, even though it was the only workaround and no one ever made note of that being an issue (how many times have you unplugged your cat5 cable from your computer without issues).


HOLY ****, no way!

You obviously can control your temper....I would have lost it at this point.


----------



## slvrtsunami

> I may be a DIY virgin, but I think you can give me more credit than your average 16 yo with a bass hard on.


 
Oooohhh, can I use this??!!


----------



## volker

Seems thanks to the little blue pill the borders are getting blurry ...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

slvrtsunami said:


> Oooohhh, can I use this??!!


Sure....I just made that up. At least SOMEONE here gets my stupid dry humor...lol I had to find some way to leverage my self above the average idiot but not make anyone think I am self elevating above people who obviously eat, sleet, **** and drink car audio.


----------



## kyheng

ARCuhTEK : By looking at your photo, do you ground your amps in the same point? Or you lay another run back to battery direct? Last time I do have noise and shutdown due to low voltage issues on my P9 and later found out that is the earthing for amp is no good. So by laying power cable direct back to battery solved all my problems.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

kyheng said:


> ARCuhTEK : By looking at your photo, do you ground your amps in the same point? Or you lay another run back to battery direct? Last time I do have noise and shutdown due to low voltage issues on my P9 and later found out that is the earthing for amp is no good. So by laying power cable direct back to battery solved all my problems.


All equipment is grounded through the same point, via my ground distribution block. It would be a tough thing for me to run a 1/0 ga. ground from the distribution block all the way back to the battery. I have been involved in many discussions about running grounds all the way back to the battery.

I assure you, when I get my DSP-6 signal processor, if there is any whine, I will take your suggestion to the next level.

But given my experimenting and testing og the amps via a direct signal path from HU to the amps (removing the Bit One completely) which resulted in a crystal clear signal...I really think I have a good ground. Again....the issue "IS" the Bit One.


----------



## BTA

I'd try using some craft store foam (the sticky backed kind) and put a sheet under the PCB and pieces on top of any terminals that might touch the top of the inside case as well.

Or felt would probably work too.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

BTA said:


> I'd try using some craft store foam (the sticky backed kind) and put a sheet under the PCB and pieces on top of any terminals that might touch the top of the inside case as well.
> 
> Or felt would probably work too.


Maybe Audison should have tried that before they sold it to me?


----------



## mmiller

wow this is crazy!!!!

I hope everyone gets this worked out!


----------



## BTA

ARCuhTEK said:


> Maybe Audison should have tried that before they sold it to me?


Indeed...well...thanks for beta testing I guess guys....


----------



## data_mine

My BitOne experience, doesn't include the digital beeping, or alternator whine. But instead just a high level of background hiss (white noise). Which believe it or not was actually about 6dB WORSE using either of the digital inputs.

Again as with the others in this thread, remove the BitOne from the system and there's no problems.

Mines due to go back, I've got to get the time to remove it from the car, and wire back in the 3-way passive crossovers.

The shop I bought it from (an authorised distributor here 'down under') has sold about a dozen of them, and have come across the alt whine and beep problems on others, and according to them, not one BitOne they've installed or sold has been fault free. They're cranky too as they're wasting lots of hours on these problems, that in good faith they can't (and don't) charge for.


----------



## kyheng

ARCuhTEK : Just to clarify... Anyway sometimes I will give the equipment on last but for your case, it is Bit1 itself that causing you all the troubles. Digging out the actual problem that causing noise is a pain sometimes.


----------



## Buzzman

slvrtsunami said:


> God you sound like a lawyer!! Love it!! please be sure to include contact info. for future legal questions regarding the Bit One!


:laugh: Yes, I am.


----------



## slvrtsunami

BTA said:


> I'd try using some craft store foam (the sticky backed kind) and put a sheet under the PCB and pieces on top of any terminals that might touch the top of the inside case as well.
> 
> Or felt would probably work too.


 
I dont think that would make that much of a difference considering the outside casing, as noted before, is made of a composite plastic material.


----------



## npdang

Sorry I did not follow this thread, but some comments intrigued me. Not very familiar with implied warranty law but from what I recall generally:

Regarding manufacturer product liability, the manufacturer doesn't have to approve or sanction the sale. They are strictly liable for any harm caused by a defective product/failure to warn/defective design. This would be useful if the product caused an electrical fire in your vehicle.

With respect to implied warranty of merchantability/fitness, generally you would need privity of contract which you don't have with the manufacturer if you purchased it from a dealer. Not sure what state you're in, but I can't imagine if you bought it from a specialty or boutique dealer that they have properly met the requirements to disclaim a warranty. Simply stating "no refunds" or "sold as-is" usually isn't sufficient. Also, if you did not sign any disclaimers it would be difficult for them to win against you.


----------



## CraigE

Arcuhtek,
The pic you posted (#785) looks like you are not using channels 3 & 4 on the preout side of the B1. In other words;
1&2-Yel
3&4-
5&6-pink
7&8-clear

I was just wondering why 
Can you also tell me about your wire at power & remote (size & type) ?
I resized and magnified the pic, but it's a little fuzzy then.
Thanks,
Craig


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Arcuhtek,
> The pic you posted (#785) looks like you are not using channels 3 & 4 on the preout side of the B1. In other words;
> 1&2-Yel
> 3&4-
> 5&6-pink
> 7&8-clear
> 
> I was just wondering why
> Can you also tell me about your wire at power & remote (size & type) ?
> I resized and magnified the pic, but it's a little fuzzy then.
> Thanks,
> Craig


Yep there is a very good reason why. I have planned for, wired and all but installed a front stage 3 way set up. Channels 3 and 4 are reserved for my midrange once I do a custom door enclosures, which will be this summer. I hope. The Bit One (as I understood it) reserves channel 8 for subwoofers. It also automatically assigns channel pairs. For example, if you assign a tweeter left channel to the Bit One output #1, the the Bit One software assigned the right tweeter to channel 2 automatically. Since channel 8 is reserved by the Bit One for subwoofer, then channels 7/8 are for subs on my set up. I have now learned you "can" assign the subs to any channel. But I still think in the OM it states channel 8 is always sub. I need to research it again.

Anyway.

Now I could have left any pair of channels open on the Bit One for my midrange. Since, in my mind, the natural order of frequencies are low Hz to high Hz, my logic was that my mid bass would be 1/2, midrange:3/4 and tweeters:5/6 and of course, as stated above subs 7/8.

Once I physically install the driver, all I do is connect the wire on both ends (it is already installed) and connect the RCAs (already installed) at each end (amp and Bit One) and tweak the software.

Wiring explanation:
Battery to distribution block: 1/0 ga.
Distribution to amps: 4 ga with one 4 ga leading to a second distribution block.
Second distribution block: 4 ga in, any size out. In my case, I have 12 ga to the Bit One.

All of the above is replicated on the ground wire side of the set up.

I have a complete thread on my build here if you would like to review it.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/53086-my-2008-f150-supercrew-install.html


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> oh and ALSO, did anyone notice another you tube video post with THE SAME NOISE!!!


Yeah......that alone PROVES that all this non-sense about the Bit One is installer errors.

Cough


BTW, are the two audison logos that are lit on the Lrx amps? It is too dark to tell. I have never noticed any logos on my Lrx amps with athe ability to illuminate.


----------



## denali804

Kevin, Not trying to question your skills here just trying to be helpful with your problem. I know that the bitone has major issues but I wanted to ask you if your headunit, bitone, and amps are all grounded to the distro block? If using the factory ground for your headunit you might want to change it because they are usually not really good. I know you don't have whine when connecting direct to amps from headunit, but a processor not grounded to same point as amps and headunit could induce noise. If you have a chance you might want to run some 8ga or 10ga wire from ground distro to headunit ground and see if anything changes. I know it won't solve the data noise. If you've tried that already or not interested in trying sorry for the post


----------



## CraigE

Kevin, please don't think that I am trying to find fault with your install.
It is very well done, and you have a great system. :thumbsup:
I know very well how frustrating this type of problem can be.
I was just wondering, if there are two open channels, could that be a contributing factor. I don't know.. just asking the question.
Have you tried to configure the B1 using chs. 3 & 4 ? Or, maybe just muting them.
One thing (on B1 Configuration Wizard) that I overlooked was at step (8 by count) 13 in the OM was that it asks to check the boxes by each speaker that will be powered by an amp(s) using AD Link/AC Link Connection System.
I mistakenly checked the boxes, and I am NOT using that system. I had some problems after that.
I asked about the power/remote wires, that you list as 12ga, because it looks like speaker wire when I enlarge it on my computer screen.
I've had problems in the past with things like, wiring being coiled, and wiring running parallel to other wires and picking up signal from each other.
I'm sorry that you are having these problems.

One last thing. Your profile contains a diagram of your system that you did, and it is very cool.
Could you please post a tutorial on creating that diagram
Craig.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Kevin, please don't think that I am trying to find fault with your install.
> It is very well done, and you have a great system. :thumbsup:
> I know very well how frustrating this type of problem can be.
> I was just wondering, if there are two open channels, could that be a contributing factor. I don't know.. just asking the question.
> Have you tried to configure the B1 using chs. 3 & 4 ? Or, maybe just muting them.
> One thing (on B1 Configuration Wizard) that I overlooked was at step (8 by count) 13 in the OM was that it asks to check the boxes by each speaker that will be powered by an amp(s) using AD Link/AC Link Connection System.
> I mistakenly checked the boxes, and I am NOT using that system. I had some problems after that.
> I asked about the power/remote wires, that you list as 12ga, because it looks like speaker wire when I enlarge it on my computer screen.
> I've had problems in the past with things like, wiring being coiled, and wiring running parallel to other wires and picking up signal from each other.
> I'm sorry that you are having these problems.
> 
> One last thing. Your profile contains a diagram of your system that you did, and it is very cool.
> Could you please post a tutorial on creating that diagram
> Craig.


Craig,
I have no speaker wire substituted as power wire. Thanks for the safety net when reviewing my pics. These things are needed. Fellow DIYMA member "braves" did find an issue with my setup and so I am grateful for extra eyes, especially on my first build. I have made mistakes, but thusfar all have been minor.

I know for certain that I have more overlapping wires (power and RCAs) than I should (or want to) have. This irks me because I carefully planned to NOT have any. It just did not work out that way. That having been said, once I get the signal processor worked out, if I have ANY whine or other noises, my plan is to order lead shielding and isolate wiring from one another by wrapping in lead. It will not take very much since my areas of overlap are so condensed.

Concerning the diagram and a tutorial. Sure...I can do that. I never thought it might be needed, but now that you mention it....I can do it. Graphic Design has been a hobby of mine for years. I have many published pieces but do not consider myself an expert or professional. It will take a while to do a tutorial and I really have to think it through before i start otherwise I will write an encyclopedia. Anyone reading my long azz posts knows I am very capable of writing the dictionary!!

I will start that thread soon....likely tonight. Look for it.


----------



## CraigE

Do the tutorial when you have time, no rush.
What about the AD Link/AC Link Connection System check boxes and open channels ?


----------



## ErinH

Anyone else with problems?

Who all has had the digital beeping problem?

Who all has had their system drop output levels drastically out of nowhere?

Who had had the DRC actually just go blank, while still making the beeping noise?

Who has had their unit go on the fritz and all of a sudden just get REALLY loud out of nowhwere? 


I need to know from everyone who's had issues. My tweeters blew and now that it's been pointed out that others had the same thing happen (volume got REALLY loud and made a crazy sound), and the fact that the manual doesn't state ANYWHERE that the DRC can't be plugged/unplugged (whereas the h701 states it in bold letters), I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this.

So, let me know. I need a list here. I'm about to start threads elsewhere.


----------



## imjustjason

bikinpunk said:


> I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this... I'm about to start threads elsewhere.



*There you go!! * Now we're talking!


----------



## _Dejan_

bikinpunk said:


> Anyone else with problems?
> 
> Who all has had the digital beeping problem?
> 
> Who all has had their system drop output levels drastically out of nowhere?
> 
> Who had had the DRC actually just go blank, while still making the beeping noise?
> 
> Who has had their unit go on the fritz and all of a sudden just get REALLY loud out of nowhwere?
> 
> 
> I need to know from everyone who's had issues. My tweeters blew and now that it's been pointed out that others had the same thing happen (volume got REALLY loud and made a crazy sound), and the fact that the manual doesn't state ANYWHERE that the DRC can't be plugged/unplugged (whereas the h701 states it in bold letters), I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this.
> 
> So, let me know. I need a list here. I'm about to start threads elsewhere.


Just for info which firmware do you have on your DRC? 1.3 or 1.4? did you upgrade it?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Erin you know I am on the list but I wanted to point out that I have never had the DRC go blank.

To the most recent poster:
Before returning my first Bit One, I upgraded the software for the laptop, firmware for the unit and software for the DRC. It did NOT solve the issues.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Do the tutorial when you have time, no rush.
> What about the AD Link/AC Link Connection System check boxes and open channels ?


I made that mistake (AC link) the first attempt to set the unit up. I have not had any issues with that portion of the set up since that time.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

By the way Erin, feel free to utilize my You Tube videos. IMO they are pretty good in terms of evidence with issues.


----------



## ErinH

^ Yours and others.

I've got numbers for CS and emails. Hopefully things will go smoothly, but I'm just getting the evidence ready if needed. I've got 3 pms from folks who can back me up but choose to remain out of this thread.


----------



## ErinH

^ Yours and others.

I've got numbers for CS and emails. Hopefully things will go smoothly, but I'm just getting the evidence ready if needed. I've got 3 pms from folks who can back me up but choose to remain out of this thread.


----------



## gijoe

This is really disheartening. I'm sorry you are all having these issues. I was looking into getting one of these for a while, but I wouldn't put up with these problems. This seems like a really bad thing for a company with such a stellar reputation to release. I'm sure I'm not the only one who will have to think twice about ever buying any of their products. I'd like to see them discontinue this product until they get the bugs worked out. Their reputation depends on it.


----------



## slvrtsunami

> I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this..... I'm about to start threads elsewhere.


Uh Ohh!!! The sleeping Giant has awoken!!! Run!!!


----------



## data_mine

bikinpunk said:


> Anyone else with problems?
> 
> Who all has had the digital beeping problem?
> 
> Who all has had their system drop output levels drastically out of nowhere?
> 
> Who had had the DRC actually just go blank, while still making the beeping noise?
> 
> Who has had their unit go on the fritz and all of a sudden just get REALLY loud out of nowhwere?
> 
> 
> I need to know from everyone who's had issues. My tweeters blew and now that it's been pointed out that others had the same thing happen (volume got REALLY loud and made a crazy sound), and the fact that the manual doesn't state ANYWHERE that the DRC can't be plugged/unplugged (whereas the h701 states it in bold letters), I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this.
> 
> So, let me know. I need a list here. I'm about to start threads elsewhere.


I haven't had those problems, only my own special problems (high background noise). However when I went back to the shop to do more testing, they gave me another bitone to trial, they knew it had the beeping noise already, gave it to me and low and behold it beeped in my car (with my DRC) too.

So it definitaly build quality issues with the bitone itself.

Has anyone here, tried swapping their bit one with another (either known good or known bad). What were the results, did the issues move with the bitone, did the new one behave as the old one did (if the new one was known good)? If it was a known good unit, did it work fine replacing your known bad one?


----------



## hernanrod

any news from audison's people?

they will back the money? o they are still searching for a fix?




bikinpunk said:


> Anyone else with problems?
> 
> Who all has had the digital beeping problem?
> 
> Who all has had their system drop output levels drastically out of nowhere?
> 
> Who had had the DRC actually just go blank, while still making the beeping noise?
> 
> Who has had their unit go on the fritz and all of a sudden just get REALLY loud out of nowhwere?
> 
> 
> I need to know from everyone who's had issues. My tweeters blew and now that it's been pointed out that others had the same thing happen (volume got REALLY loud and made a crazy sound), and the fact that the manual doesn't state ANYWHERE that the DRC can't be plugged/unplugged (whereas the h701 states it in bold letters), I finally am coming around and starting to get really pissed off at this.
> 
> So, let me know. I need a list here. I'm about to start threads elsewhere.


i've digita beep with drc plugged, but is gone when unplug
no more strange noises for my b1, just the beeping problem, and i dont like to use the b1 with drc unplugged


----------



## braves6117

data_mine said:


> I haven't had those problems, only my own special problems (high background noise). However when I went back to the shop to do more testing, they gave me another bitone to trial, they knew it had the beeping noise already, gave it to me and low and behold it beeped in my car (with my DRC) too.
> 
> So it definitaly build quality issues with the bitone itself.
> 
> Has anyone here, tried swapping their bit one with another (either known good or known bad). What were the results, did the issues move with the bitone, did the new one behave as the old one did (if the new one was known good)? If it was a known good unit, did it work fine replacing your known bad one?


Read the thread....some people have exchanged 3 units with same problems!!


----------



## braves6117

hernanrod said:


> i dont like to use the b1 with drc unplugged



You shouldn't have to use it with the drc unplugged. However, only time will tell....


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Spoke with my dealer today. He was most helpful and I asked for a refund. I tried to tell him that I have been trouble shooting this for days, weeks. He, polutely insisted on calling Elletromedia (Larry) and Ken with Advanced.

They have been on the phones all day. Joe (my dealer) called me back just now and is telling me what I already know. I am going to let him run his course until tomorrow. I should just cut him off and get rude and demand the refund. But it is not Joes fault. That having been said, Joe is not refusing to refund my money....we actually never got far in the refund portion of my conversation. Just letting you all know where I stand.

Ohhhhhhhhh one more thing. I spoke with a Charles at Advanced this morning (877-567-3030) and he said that Audison would stand behind their products even if the dealer did not offer a refund. But he did say that if that occured to call him and he would refund my money up to the amount that the dealer paid for the unit. I have no idea what that amount it, and while its a nice gesture, I will expect 100% refund or I will be contacting my CC company.

All that having been said, I am not upset or angry....just telling you what I know thusfar.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

thread jack



CraigE said:


> One last thing. Your profile contains a diagram of your system that you did, and it is very cool.
> Could you please post a tutorial on creating that diagram
> Craig.


I started this tutorial and it can be found here:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/56580-how-i-created-graphic-design-layout-my-system-diagram.html

end of thread jack


----------



## data_mine

braves6117 said:


> Read the thread....some people have exchanged 3 units with same problems!!


I have been reading the thread (since I got my BitOne back in December, only recently signed up when I had something to contribute), I'm following the bouncing ball like bikinpunk and ARCuhTEK. I've no beef with my dealer, they've been great. So I want to at least help them help me. At this stage that involves a return.

Luckily for me/them, they've currently got the Aus Audison distributors demo car + full compliment of Thesis gear + broken BitOne in shop now, so they've got Audison Aus' full attention.


----------



## quality_sound

^^^But how can this be??? The Aussie distributor SWEARS there haven't been ANY bad BitOnes in Oz...


----------



## chad

sometimes there are bad runs, possibly there is a rash of them.


----------



## ErinH

quality_sound said:


> ^^^But how can this be??? The Aussie distributor SWEARS there haven't been ANY bad BitOnes in Oz...


Truth. Man, that guy was putting me on blast for me saying that I had issues with mine, and his cronies were doing the same... I finally just gave up on their forum. Then a week later I get a PM from him asking me to tell him of the specifics. 




chad said:


> sometimes there are bad runs, possibly there is a rash of them.


Sounds like it. I believe them when they say that there's a bad batch and not everyone is effected. It's just a shame how it took so many people having issues to realize this and that it wasn't caught sooner (ie: before said batch went out). I know a lot of folks were saying that's poor QC and initially I didn't really get too upset about it. But, after having a second unit come back to me in worse condition than the first I realized how it's likely very true.

I like to see companies succeed _and_ do the right thing. Typically you can't do one without the other. So, we'll see how all this plays out. I will say that this 'flavor of the month' thread will probably have quite a lasting impression judging by the linkbacks.


----------



## t3sn4f2

chad said:


> sometimes there are bad runs, possibly there is a rash of them.


Yup, I once went through the complete stock pile of Klipsch SW-15 series II subs at a local Tweeter, they all had noisy voice coils. 5 in total, all ****ed.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> ^^^But how can this be??? The Aussie distributor SWEARS there haven't been ANY bad BitOnes in Oz...


I certainly do remember that statement being made somewhere around here...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> I will say that this 'flavor of the month' thread will probably have quite a lasting impression judging by the linkbacks.


Linkback o'rama!!! I mean wow the linkbacks almost need a page of their own!


----------



## data_mine

I've just posted up a build thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...pv-gt-p-sound-quality-install.html#post694728

Today, I removed the BitOne and sent it back. I can honestly say that for the first time in months, I enjoyed listening to the system. What a sad state of affairs that is.

With the BitOne out of the 'loop', there's no background noise at all. Even on a zero bit track the silence is deafening, instead of a white noise roar.

Let's hope the new one works fine (as it did stage better than the passive set up I run).


----------



## data_mine

Whoops, double post.


----------



## _Dejan_

Hi guys

Because I can't wait until weekend Im decide that Im test my Bit One today 
Im connect bit one to amplifier with some old 5m RCA which cost 10-20€ and for sound source use my half builded carpc(LCD panel in one hand, LCD inverter in other hand, case on seat...) connected with optical cable and old RCA with soldered wire of headphones to other side(If some SQ boy see this I think he will kill me  ) anyway. Afcourse I will change RCA for custom build interconects...
Im set-up Bit one at home with notebook to some basic settings(only chanels and crossovers)... 
Im connect Bit one with DRC too and prepare USB cable.
Im turn it ON with DRC and start windows media player(playing mp3's).
Afcourse Im forget in windows setings set up optical out as default...
Then something start playing 
Im change source to Master. Car has been turned off... And I little increase volume on DRC and hear same digital beeping as few guys here (grrrrrrr), then Im start car but Im not hear any engine noise.
Im plug USB(DRC normal operate and do not show disconnected status) and digital beeping has gone. That is great.
I change source to optical out and sound start playing normaly without engine noise or digital beeping. I unplug USB and normaly play without problems. I restart Bit one and all work normaly(with connected DRC and disconnected USB).
For me master input is not important because I need it only for configure device because I will use optical input wich work without problems.
Im try change volume(optical out) in windows and work normaly...

I have on Bit one 1.0.7.1 firmware(When Im buy it has been on it), Im upgrade DRC firmware to 1.4(I don't know which has been on it original)
I use original DRC cable
I don't use original USB cable and I use some other 5m USB cable for 2€...

I will test more when I will complete my install...

Sorry for my bad english and I hope that my post is readable


----------



## _Dejan_

I have one question.
Can someone make iso image of Bit One CD(Not DVD)? Because my old alpine 9813 do not want eject my original Bit One Cd :S And now I have only DVD...

Regards, _Dejan_


----------



## linuxpro

I could rip a copy to ISO for you. The only problem then would be how to transfer it. If you've got an FTP server, or some kind of file storage, let me know. Otherwise, maybe Bit Torrent?


----------



## _Dejan_

linuxpro said:


> I could rip a copy to ISO for you. The only problem then would be how to transfer it. If you've got an FTP server, or some kind of file storage, let me know. Otherwise, maybe Bit Torrent?


Yes please rip it. I can use Bit torrent, emule or ftp(I have two ftp one fast with 500MB space and one slower with 1.5TB space  ) When you will rip it write me PM with file size and I will create FTP account...


----------



## linuxpro

_Dejan_ said:


> Yes please rip it. I can use Bit torrent, emule or ftp(I have two ftp one fast with 500MB space and one slower with 1.5TB space  ) When you will rip it write me PM with file size and I will create FTP account...


OK, will do. That will probably be later tonight, as I'm currently at work with no access to the Bit One install CD.


----------



## scooter99

Hey Erin, or anyone else really in fact, I've been skimming this post, and I'm wondering cause I have seen it. Where did you get the Bit one. I'm having trouble finding one. And how much was it? ALL CURIOSITIES ONLY I SWEAR!!!! 

God this car audio thing is gonna either, kill me, cause bankruptcy (oh yeah done that already), or cause me to be single again!! But I'm officially addicted!!


----------



## Megalomaniac

scooter99 said:


> Hey Erin, or anyone else really in fact, I've been skimming this post, and I'm wondering cause I have seen it. Where did you get the Bit one. I'm having trouble finding one. And how much was it? ALL CURIOSITIES ONLY I SWEAR!!!!
> 
> God this car audio thing is gonna either, kill me, cause bankruptcy (oh yeah done that already), or cause me to be single again!! But I'm officially addicted!!


I guess you overlooked all the problems the bit1 is having, why would you even want one...


----------



## scooter99

Megalomaniac said:


> I guess you overlooked all the problems the bit1 is having, why would you even want one...


Honestly I thought those were all being fixed. I figured, and I'm just assuming, that the newer one's would have been corrected by now. Like I said it was just curiosity.


----------



## scooter99

I'm really just doing reasearch on them. Pricing, stats, etc. I even looked on the Audison website but I'm not even seeing it on there. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Who knows.


----------



## ErinH

Don't bother right now. Deal with what you have


----------



## scooter99

Ok then. I was really just researching. I can't buy anything else. Not for a while anyway. 

Ok sorry I asked. 

Did you ever get yours fixed?


----------



## ErinH

Nope. Will get one back in mid-April I'm told. Trying to work out all the issues with their product before sending anymore out.


----------



## scooter99

Well gotta commend them for that. I wouldn't wanna send out a pos in exchange for a pos. Hope it works out for you.


----------



## meteoro84

hi guys , after read a _Dejan_ ,i think that the B1 found GROUND , when conect with PC ,i think if conect usb chasis in ground or the usb pin with have ground ,the "morse code" must gone , what do you think guys??


----------



## chad

The shell of the usb connector can and will touch the "paint" which is chassis ground while the shell is audio ground. same with the amp link connector.


----------



## data_mine

chad said:


> The shell of the usb connector can and will touch the "paint" which is chassis ground while the shell is audio ground. same with the amp link connector.


That's had me confused for a long time, since it was first documented here. 

Why would the USB and/or the DRC/ADLink connectors be audio ground. They've got nothing to do with audio.


----------



## t3sn4f2

data_mine said:


> That's had me confused for a long time, since it was first documented here.
> 
> Why would the USB and/or the DRC/ADLink connectors be audio ground. They've got nothing to do with audio.


Because the DRC and the USB control stuff that controls the analog audio maybe?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Interesting update on my Bit One as of 5 pm EST today.

Joe, my dealer, who is insistent upon trouble shooting this silly thing, (even though I am asking for a refund) has spent quite sometime on the phone with Larry. He is relaying to me, 100% information that I already know from Larry and you guys. With a couple of new exceptions. Here is my outline of new things:

1. I agreed, for the sake of allowing Joe his due process, to remove my case and connect my Bit One with no case on it. Joe was told by Larry it would fix the whine and MIGHT even fix the beeping. He DID say that only one customer told him that removing the case WOULD fix the beeping.

Drum roll.............

*It didnt do ****.* It took all of one sec worth of music to play across my speakers to tell that the naked circuit board STILL produced horrendous whine and beeping. I shut her down.

2. Joe told me that "the people at Audison" are saying that there are just a few bad units out there. I really wish I had Erins list at that point, because I know of about 6 own my own.....let alone within the broader picture known as EARTH. This was new to me. If there is a list, I want my name, address and phone number as well as B1 serial number on it!

3. Larry has told Joe that the new adapter to be connected between the Bit One and the DRC are schedule to arrive in the US as soon as tomorrow. Joe has requested one for me. Joe told me he has put in a request for one for me because I am on my second unit. But I told Joe that if removing the case did not fix the issue, I would want only a refund. I might consider coming back as a customer when they issue a new signal processor.

4. There is supposed to be new software issued to the Audison Bit One website any day now. I know nothing more than that....

I WISH they would fix this thing...and be done with it for no other reason than I could move on with my system. I now have a Zapco DSP 6 en route to my house.....


----------



## braves6117

ARCuhTEK said:


> I now have a Zapco DSP 6 en route to my house.....













Now sit back, and call it a day....


----------



## capnxtreme

> for the sake of allowing Joe his due process


Be assertive, dude. Joe sounds like a tool.


----------



## data_mine

t3sn4f2 said:


> Because the DRC and the USB control stuff that controls the analog audio maybe?


Not directly (at least I hope not).

The USB and DRC connects to the processor (an Analog Devices SHARC) another digital device. Any analog audio shouldn't come into contact with any digital control signal at all (USB and DRC).


----------



## ARCuhTEK

capnxtreme said:


> Be assertive, dude. Joe sounds like a tool.


Not to me. Some people would just cut him off and be more demanding. I think he honestly things he is helping me and trying to do his best.

It will work itself out.


----------



## Babs

I figure it's a very good move for the sake of the consumer base to let them troubleshoot the snot out of it. It's a good thing if Audison can get the bugs out in the real world and finally nail down a quiet SQ product. If all we have are Imprint boxes, Zapco boxes and Audiocontrol boxes, and some integration pieces out there such as 3sixty.2, H650 or the cleansweep do-nothing but de-eq stuff.. Wouldn't be cool. 

In high-SQ full-processing it's pretty much it's just the zapco piece, and that's about it.. I'm spoiled now that I got a chance to hear what a seriously good pre/pro (home a/v term for preamp/processor) can do. Hopefully Audison will find the gremlins and we'll have a kickin' processor for years to come. Sounds like they're doing due diligence to find the issues.

Hey Andy... MS-88888888888 Come out and playyyeeeyyaaay!  hehehehe. Sorry.


----------



## chad

data_mine said:


> Not directly (at least I hope not).
> 
> The USB and DRC connects to the processor (an Analog Devices SHARC) another digital device. Any analog audio shouldn't come into contact with any digital control signal at all (USB and DRC).


But the shells (shielding) of the data connectors share audio ground, as proven in earlier pics


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Babs said:


> Hey Andy... MS-88888888888 Come out and playyyeeeyyaaay!  hehehehe. Sorry.


AMEN BROTHER!


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Not to me. Some people would just cut him off and be more demanding. I think he honestly things he is helping me and trying to do his best.
> 
> It will work itself out.


Not to me either... Joe was the one that, once I mentioned my bit one issues, called Electtromedia and set up the support required. When I called Electtromedia they knew who I was and what was my issue, so it was resolved in less than one hour.


----------



## data_mine

chad said:


> But the shells (shielding) of the data connectors share audio ground, as proven in earlier pics


I know that, what I'm saying is that it shouldn't be.

There's no reason to share the analog ground with that of the digital connections.


----------



## chad

I agree, I feel that they should be on chassis ground as long as they are ONLY acting as a shield.


----------



## hernanrod

bump!

any body knows how to fix the DRC "beep" noise?

there is an "interfase" from audison? some one test it?


----------



## _Dejan_

hernanrod said:


> bump!
> 
> any body knows how to fix the DRC "beep" noise?
> 
> there is an "interfase" from audison? some one test it?


I think that there is ground problem...

Today Im listen songs trough Master input(pre input 1&2) connected to it my notebook with RCA->3.5 jack adapter and Im not receive and engine noise or DRC beeping. With carpc which use same ground as bit one and amplifiers Im get trough RCA DRC beeps but trough optical input Im not receive it... 
Next week when I will install carpc in car I will test again...

BTW Im in contact with Elettromedia support team(Audison R&D Division) because I will develope one plugin for one carpc application to control Bit One DRC functions by carpc... I will try get some information about new firmware or solution for DRC beeping afcourse if I will have same problems again with carpc...


----------



## meteoro84

while you using the pc on B1 listen music, you have conected the USB or just the 3,5 to rca adapter only??


----------



## ARCuhTEK

No solution for me yet. I have been too busy to try the last steps of troubleshooting as suggested to me from Audison. Which, if you are curious, is for me to replace ALL of my RCA cables. You know, just a few dollars worth of costs on MY behalf. Cough.

I was told that there would be new firware updates hitting the Audison website any day now (as of last Wednesday).

I just checked...no updates yet.


----------



## hernanrod

Audison suggest you to replace ALL RCA???


----------



## ARCuhTEK

hernanrod said:


> Audison suggest you to replace ALL RCA???


My dealer did. He says that any RCAs can have a ground go bad...whatever that means. I do know you can get defective RCA's but these little bastards are not cheap. I think I am going to buy the cheapest ones I can find, just to do the test. If it fixes any of the problems I will invest in much nicer ones. If it doesnt, I am not out much.

Seems to me that it would have been easier to just send the unit back, but I understand they are trying to rule out the Bit One as a problem. I am confident in my install. Period.


----------



## hernanrod

I dont think the RCA was the problem, too much people with different RCA have the beeping noise.

i'd like to try connecting usb with the notebook shut off

if beeping disapear, maybe giving ground to usb "i dont now how" problem was solved
if not, may be giving some voltage tu usb... 

i read something about a plugin for DRC, any news about that?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

hernanrod said:


> I dont think the RCA was the problem, too much people with different RCA have the beeping noise.
> 
> i'd like to try connecting usb with the notebook shut off
> 
> if beeping disapear, maybe giving ground to usb "i dont now how" problem was solved
> if not, may be giving some voltage tu usb...
> 
> i read something about a plugin for DRC, any news about that?


I was the one who mentioned the "adaptor" that will fit between the DRC and the Unit. No news yet, but they were supposed to hit the USA this week according to my dealer (who claims Larry told him that).

As far as the RCA's...trust me, I have done all the trouble shooting that I know to do, with the exception of replacing ALL the RCAs. I did replace the RCA from the HU to the Bit One with no success. So my dealer asking me to so this is just due diligence if yo as me. I want to be able to honestly say to him...I have done everything you have asked me to and all signs point to the Bit One. At this point, the delay is me.....but I am losing steam to be honest.

This forum has been more helpful to me, in the sense that all the tweaks, experimenting, troubleshooting, etc. were all done here before my dealer told me all his "new" news. So I was ahead of his curve, so to speak.

What has not been helpful is any real solutions. There are people who claim to have had the same issues and now they have no issues. I have not heard the real solutions as of yet, but I have heard a lot of suggestions for troubleshooting the issue. I just wish Audison would take the unit back and do their own in house troubleshooting. Now I know why I avoided my dealer on the first unit, because Audison took the first unit back after 10 mins with me on the phone.


----------



## Hernan

Please don't blame on my silly question... Does anyone try the high level inputs instead the RCAs?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I got my second unit Friday morning, but I haven't tested it yet. I will have to test it on my bench, but not sure how that will show is if there is a noise (alternator whine) problem from the ground of the Case, but if the DRC is beeping it should still do it even on the bench. Trying to wait for the new software to be put on the download site. My fingers are crossed this one is trouble free.


----------



## nepl29

Hernan said:


> Please don't blame on my silly question... Does anyone try the high level inputs instead the RCAs?


Yes, that what im using.


----------



## _Dejan_

meteoro84 said:


> while you using the pc on B1 listen music, you have conected the USB or just the 3,5 to rca adapter only??


When Im playing music by notebook I have connected only RCA.


----------



## data_mine

Hernan said:


> Please don't blame on my silly question... Does anyone try the high level inputs instead the RCAs?


I've heard from second hand advice that using the high level inputs doesn't help either.

With mine, I tried, RCA's, digital coax, and digital optical, all with same problems.


----------



## Audison - Hertz

To all DIYMA Forum members

On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company. 

As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.

You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.

We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner. 

Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).

Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


This is good to know. I placed a call to my dealer today at noon. I am expected to hear from him anytime. I am anxious to learn of the "resolutions" mentioned in your statement.

Thanks for stopping by....


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


:thumbsup:

I have no worries, that if my second unit has a problem it will be take care of.

Thanks for the post.

O ya, the thing sounds amazing.


----------



## linuxpro

Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


As someone who purchased the Bit One (as well as a bunch of Hertz stuff), I want to say thanks for the great support I've received to this point. Both Elettromedia and the authorized dealer have provided excellent service and support, and I will be buying more of your products as a result. It's good to see a manufacturer taking such an active role in the release of their products, and following up to make sure everyone is happy. I've been quite impressed. And that's saying a lot considering that my experience with hi-fi audio has formerly been limited mostly to companies such as Krell and McIntosh. One expects a high level of support with those brands, but to get the same level of support from Elettromedia was both unexpected and highly appreciated. You've won a new loyal customer.


----------



## ErinH

Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> *We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. *With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


Thanks for coming on here and stating this publicly. Hopefully it will clear up the mess that has become of this thread and others like it. I quit posting on the subject because I’m sick of hearing about it. 

*Bolded above*… I agree with 100%. Unfortunately, too many people use the forum to vent before contacting a manufacturer. Thankfully, you guys are showing that you have an open arms policy and maybe that will defer others from expecting this thread to solve their problems. Though, I do think it is good for people to share issues; otherwise majors ones may go unnoticed and even be accepted by another end-user who believes the issue is his fault. 

I’m looking forward to having my 3rd bit one come back to me in the coming weeks so the issues can be resolved and put behind both myself, and Elettromedia.

Thanks for coming on –board here and sharing your information with us.
Erin


----------



## autofile

Come on guys! You all have to give Elettromedia propers for coming on to a public forum, in the midst of a HUGE flame thread, and standing up to be accountable!

This is the type of RARE attention to customer service and commitment to customer satisfaction that ALL companies SHOULD demonstrate, but far too few actually do when the chips are down.

Bravo Audison/Hertz for your fantastic consumer support as well as your incredible products!



Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


----------



## t3sn4f2

autofile said:


> Come on guys! You all have to give Elettromedia propers for coming on to a public forum, in the midst of a HUGE flame thread, and standing up to be accountable!
> 
> This is the type of RARE attention to customer service and commitment to customer satisfaction that ALL companies SHOULD demonstrate, but far too few actually do when the chips are down.
> *
> Bravo Audison/Hertz for your fantastic consumer support as well as your incredible products!*


xxxx2


----------



## capnxtreme

autofile said:


> Come on guys! You all have to give Elettromedia propers for coming on to a public forum, in the midst of a HUGE flame thread, and standing up to be accountable!


I don't think they have much of a choice at this point.

But still, well played.


----------



## Buzzman

capnxtreme said:


> I don't think they have much of a choice at this point.
> 
> But still, well played.


Actually, they did have a choice and in my opinion they didn't have to come to this forum and make such a statement. Their customers already knew what kind of support and service they were providing, and were saying so throughout this thread. From a marketing standpoint, involving themselves this way was quite smart though, and reassuring to actual and potential customers. It's unfortunate that you still found it necessary to qualify your praise. Anyway, to Audison/Hertz/Elettromedia, I offer a big :beerchug:


----------



## braves6117

autofile said:


> Bravo Audison/Hertz for your fantastic consumer support as well as your incredible products!


Indeed, well put. :2thumbsup: :toff:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

My F150 caught fire today.....I am not sure if I should blame the Bit One or my install.






































Aprils Fools (one day early)

Just thought the thread might enjoy a chuckle...


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> My F150 caught fire today.....I am not sure if I should blame the Bit One or my install.


My heart skipped a beat when I saw that... don't do that to us:laugh:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

trevordj said:


> My heart skipped a beat when I saw that... don't do that to us:laugh:


It at least got your mind off the Bit One....


----------



## trevordj

ARCuhTEK said:


> It at least got your mind off the Bit One....


Touché my friend.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Okay update on my Bit One.

My dealer finally completed his due diligence on asking me to troubleshoot the Bit One (second unit) and I now have an RMA number and will be returning the unit back to Elettromedia today.

While on the telephone, here are a couple of new things I learned.

1. Elettromedia / Advanced now has a test car on site to test units that are returned, in addition to bench testing.

2. I was told today that the next shipment of Bit Ones, which will be built without the case being painted with the same paint that seems to have metal flake in it, *will arrive in the US mid-MAY*

3. I was told again that new firmware / software was scheduled to be released via their website as of yesterday. I only have the link on my laptop and I cannot check from work. Can someone check it? I think the link may be in this thread, so i will try that when I am done writing here.


Even though I have two DSP6's on the way, I have elected to exchange the Bit One....one last time. I still have dreams of how nice it will sound if we can get over this obstacle.


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> 3. I was told again that new firmware / software was scheduled to be released via their website as of yesterday. I only have the link on my laptop and I cannot check from work. Can someone check it? I think the link may be in this thread, so i will try that when I am done writing here.



Latest version of software on page is 1.3 and firmware 1.0.7.1 so nothing new...


----------



## Genxx

Big thumbs up to Elettromedia. Having run audison in the past and now my comp. car that is going to be full of Hertz stuff this shows they are a great company whiling to stand behind their products..

I will say I stayed out of this thread and other's. I was shocked by the problems of the BitOne knowing your product history. 

I hope that for all you guys, Elettromedia this is all worked out and the only threads we see are one's singing the praise of the BitOne.


----------



## chad

they actually gonna foil the inside cover or just not shield it at all? That's why the paint was metallic


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> 2. I was told today that the next shipment of Bit Ones, which will be built without the case being painted with the same paint that seems to have metal flake in it, *will arrive in the US mid-MAY*


I was told differently last week. Sounds like there’s been a schedule slip.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> I was told differently last week. Sounds like there’s been a schedule slip.


That is why I posted the comment. For you.


----------



## quality_sound

I heard a different date as well.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

New Software and Firmware updates are now on the site. V1.5 of both.


----------



## ErinH

Hey, now all I need is a bit one! 

lol.


----------



## _Dejan_

Here-I-Come said:


> New Software and Firmware updates are now on the site. V1.5 of both.


Great downloading and I will try it today


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Sorry also new 1.5 DRC updates also.


----------



## mbcouple

New "Advanced" manual also (it has all the screenshots showing version 1.5)


----------



## braves6117

Guys, for updates, do you have to go version by version, or can you straight update to the most current?


----------



## ErinH

i would think you could skip, but I'd give audison a ring to make sure.

You found one I take it?


----------



## _Dejan_

braves6117 said:


> Guys, for updates, do you have to go version by version, or can you straight update to the most current?


Read upgrade manual and you will see that you can upgrade from 1.0.7.1 or older versions...

My Bit One now have v1.5 firmware and DRC have v1.5 to


----------



## Ianaconi

What are the updates?


----------



## _Dejan_

Ianaconi said:


> What are the updates?


Do you think what is new?
Im not see any visual change(But Im not work a lot with bit one application)...
I don't know is in DRC 1.4 posible change brightnes of backlight? I don't remember but I think that this is new in DRC v1.5...


----------



## quality_sound

Where are you guys downloading the manuals? I can't find them on the Audison on Elettromedia sites.


----------



## _Dejan_

quality_sound said:


> Where are you guys downloading the manuals? I can't find them on the Audison on Elettromedia sites.


Try on:
Audison :: Update

You will find all files for Bit One...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Downloaded the software and firmware updates, DRC updates, all guides and manuals and then the FAQ. I have not previously read the FAQ. I found it interesting.


----------



## trebat

what was the login/password? I saw it once in this thread but couldn't find it again,

thanks


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

trebat said:


> what was the login/password? I saw it once in this thread but couldn't find it again,
> 
> thanks



login: bitone
password: bitone


----------



## data_mine

bikinpunk said:


> Hey, now all I need is a bit one!
> 
> lol.


lol, me too. Mines somewhere in the return process.


----------



## michaelsil1

Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 887-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


I've been very impressed with your support team and the quick responses that all of you have given.


----------



## michaelsil1

I just updated everything except the DRC it got stuck on stupid. I'll get it fixed tomorrow.


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> Guys, for updates, do you have to go version by version, or can you straight update to the most current?


You go straight to the newest version. The instructions are very easy to follow. The key thing to remember is that after you have removed the old software, downloaded the new version and firmware, launched the new software and downloaded the new firmware, and closed out the program, you have to *turn off the power to your Bit One *before restarting it. Otherwise, the updated firmware does not take hold and you have to start over from the beginning. I learned that myself after several failed attempts to upload the new firmware.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I just updated everything except the DRC it got stuck on stupid. I'll get it fixed tomorrow.


Hey Michael, I am having problems updating the DRC firmware also. I keep getting the following message: "Can't Open AC Link Interface." Hopefully that gets resolved soon.


----------



## _Dejan_

Buzzman said:


> Hey Michael, I am having problems updating the DRC firmware also. I keep getting the following message: "Can't Open AC Link Interface." Hopefully that gets resolved soon.


Are you first update DRC and then BitOne? Im normaly update both first Bit One(after each step Im restart it) and then DRC.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Hey Michael, I am having problems updating the DRC firmware also. I keep getting the following message: "Can't Open AC Link Interface." Hopefully that gets resolved soon.


Mine found and opened the AC Link, but when it was doing the update it didn't do anything (Stuck on Stupid). The Tech had me do a hard boot to the system and try again after that it erased the chip to the DRC without rewriting. :blush:


They now most likely have to replace the DRC.


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> Mine found and opened the AC Link, but when it was doing the update *it didn't do anything (Stuck on Stupid). *The Tech had me do a hard boot to the system and try again after that it erased the chip to the DRC without rewriting. :blush:
> 
> 
> *They now most likely have to replace the DRC.*


My DRC update does exactly the same thing... I got the bit one to update finally after letting it cool down and somewhat discharged overnight, though. I bet that when I call Larry today the decision will be a replacement as well.

The only reason I wanted the updates was that I was suspecting that there was something worng between my DRC and the bit one as most of the time connecting the DRC to the bit one did not do anything nor it let the bit one communicate with my laptop, and it looks now that it is a bad DRC after all.

I'm still having problems calibrating this bit one to my high power OEM amp and its underseat subs bass. It seems that it requires a very particular volume input level to really get bass out of the bit one; after the update what I have now is perhaps 60% of the bass that I used to have pre-update. I don't want to add anything -line output converter, line driver like I did with my old 3SIXTY.2- to this bit one to fix this issue... for the price of this unit it should do what it is supposed to do without any external band aids. Audison should have kept the original 32V RMS max input at the high level port... :mean:


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> My DRC update does exactly the same thing... I got the bit one to update finally after letting it cool down and somewhat discharged overnight, though. I bet that when I call Larry today the decision will be a replacement as well.


It looks like Larry is going to have a busy day.


----------



## braves6117

Unit here updated successfully, including the DRC to v1.5


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Anyone checked to see if this update fixed/changed the crossover section, so you can select different slopes on the highpass and lowpass sides of the bandpass? 

I've download the updates, but second unit is still awaiting testing.


----------



## Buzzman

Well, this is what I have learned. There appears to be some sort of incompatibility with the software running the DRC firmware update and chipsets in some newer computers. Why, nobody knows. It's not an XP vs Vista issue. So, the solution appears to be to find an older laptop to use just for the DRC firmware updates. Download the Bit One drivers, etc, to this older laptop, as well as the DRC firmware update, and run the program. I will confirm whether this works when I get my son's laptop tonight. Note, that running the older DRC firmware does not degrade the sonic performance of the Bit One. What happens though is that the DRC is not as well synchronized with the Bit One that is running the current firmware. One thing you may notice is that the DRC stays on for about 10 seconds after you have powered down your system. You should wait about 10-20 seconds after the DRC powers down before powering it back up in order to avoid pops, etc. Once you have the updated DRC firmware in place, this should not be an issue.


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> Anyone checked to see if this update fixed/changed the crossover section, so you can select different slopes on the highpass and lowpass sides of the bandpass?
> 
> I've download the updates, but second unit is still awaiting testing.


It didn't change any of the options you previously had. You get the flexibility you are seeking if you select "expert" rather than "standard" mode on the drop down menu under Config/Working Mode. The other thing you need to do is select either Butterworth or Linkwitz filters under the filter settings. The Butterworth filters give you more slope options, in increments of 6db. The filters, to my ears, do have different sound characteristics. Also, very important, you You HAVE to select factory defaults after the firmware update is completed because the new 1.5 firmware is not compatible with your previously saved settings. So, you will have to go back and input all of your settings and save them all over again, and FINALIZE them to the Bit One.


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> It looks like Larry is going to have a busy day.


At least for me, it was a very fast solution according to Larry... send the whole thing back for replacement. 

After a good 10-12 hours of trying everything and then some, this bit one is putting out not even half of the audio performance that I used to have. It even have DRC noise where it used to have none. :mean:


----------



## braves6117

The DRC update worked fine with my 2.0 Ghz Intel core 2 duo Inspiron 6400


----------



## michaelsil1

Okay, I have everything at 1.5 now! :scholar:


----------



## doitor

Does the updated software stops the noise issues or what does it do?

Jorge.


----------



## Buzzman

doitor said:


> Does the updated software stops the noise issues or what does it do?
> 
> Jorge.


The simple answer is that it should, but you won't know until you have it installed and operating. The Bit One is an extremely complex piece of computer based engineering, and something new is learned each day. For example, Larry Penn told me today this his Sony Vaio, which he used to install and upgrade all of the new software and firmware won't process the DRC upgrade, but his old Acer does. Go figure. Also, one thing for sure is that install methodology is critical.


----------



## monkeyboy

My digital morse code is still there as well as my turn off thump.

I need to call them. I think the turn off thump has something to do with the B1 and my head unit as a combo.


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> The DRC update worked fine with my 2.0 Ghz Intel core 2 duo Inspiron 6400


Good for you. It's not working with my Toshiba Satellite L305-S5931 which has an Intel Pentium T3400 2.16GHz Dual-Core mobile processor. I will be trying my son's older Toshiba laptop tonight to see what happens.


----------



## Buzzman

monkeyboy said:


> My digital morse code is still there as well as my turn off thump.
> 
> I need to call them. I think the turn off thump has something to do with the B1 and my head unit as a combo.


Regarding the turn off thump, I have that too, and I was told by Larry Penn that it's related to how you have the remote turn on/off wired. It must be set up so that the Bit One, and not your head unit, is triggering the amp because the Bit One stays cycled up for a while after power to it has been turned off. You have to make sure that you go remote out from the head unit, to remote in on the Bit One, to remote out from the Bit One to remote in on your amp. This hasn't been changed in my set up yet, but will be soon.

Regarding the "digital morse code" noise, have you uploaded the latest firmware and software?


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Okay, I have everything at 1.5 now! :scholar:


Awesome!! Congrats. Will be joining you soon Michael.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> It didn't change any of the options you previously had. *You get the flexibility you are seeking if you select "expert" rather than "standard" mode on the drop down menu under Config/Working Mode. The other thing you need to do is select either Butterworth or Linkwitz filters under the filter settings. * The Butterworth filters give you more slope options, in increments of 6db. The filters, to my ears, do have different sound characteristics. Also, very important, you You HAVE to select factory defaults after the firmware update is completed because the new 1.5 firmware is not compatible with your previously saved settings. So, you will have to go back and input all of your settings and save them all over again, and FINALIZE them to the Bit One.


In expert mode you still *can not* make the slopes different on the Hi-pass and low-pass if the filter type is set to Band-pass. If you set the Lo-P to say Linkwitz 24db, the Hi-P has the same slope. The drop down arrow is greyed out for the Hi-P when Band-pass filter type is selected.

If you can make them different slopes, then with 1.5 software and Firmware install it did change it. Becuase with 1.0.7.1 and 1.3 you can not.


----------



## braves6117

Buzzman said:


> You have to make sure that you go remote out from the head unit, to remote in on the Bit One, to remote out from the Bit One to remote in on your amp.


With that methodology*, I have no thumps. 



* (It should be noted that the word "methodology" is frequently used when "method" would be more accurate.(This is a classic example of word inflation.)) Gotta Love Wiki :laugh:


----------



## Buzzman

Here-I-Come said:


> In expert mode you still *can not* make the slopes different on the Hi-pass and low-pass if the filter type is set to Band-pass. If you set the Lo-P to say Linkwitz 24db, the Hi-P has the same slope. The drop down arrow is greyed out for the Hi-P when Band-pass filter type is selected.
> 
> If you can make them different slopes, then with 1.5 software and Firmware install it did change it. Becuase with 1.0.7.1 and 1.3 you can not.


OK, I didn't understand your point till now. With that clarification, nothing has been changed by the new software.


----------



## Buzzman

braves6117 said:


> With that methodology*, I have no thumps.
> 
> 
> 
> * (It should be noted that the word "methodology" is frequently used when "method" would be more accurate.(This is a classic example of word inflation.)) Gotta Love Wiki :laugh:


:laugh: You are killing me man. :laugh: Well, if Howard Cosell were alive today he might take issue with Wikipedia on this one, since we are discussing practices and procedures. But, let's save this debate for another time, over a beer perhaps.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> OK, I didn't understand your point till now. With that clarification, nothing has been changed by the new software.


S**t I was hoping this update would change that. Well maybe one of the next ones will.


----------



## monkeyboy

Buzzman said:


> Regarding the turn off thump, I have that too, and I was told by Larry Penn that it's related to how you have the remote turn on/off wired. It must be set up so that the Bit One, and not your head unit, is triggering the amp because the Bit One stays cycled up for a while after power to it has been turned off. You have to make sure that you go remote out from the head unit, to remote in on the Bit One, to remote out from the Bit One to remote in on your amp. This hasn't been changed in my set up yet, but will be soon.
> 
> Regarding the "digital morse code" noise, have you uploaded the latest firmware and software?


Yes, I updated my bit one to 1.5 last night. Still have the digital Morse Code.

I think that the turn off thump has something to do with my combination. I do have the turn on wire wired from my head unit to the B1, and the output of the B1 to my amp.

Here is the catch though. My truck leaves the accessory wires hot until you open a door. This way the radio and windows work after you shut off the ignition. My headunit keeps the amps on at all times. It needs to so that even if you power it off, you can still get audible directions from Ms. Navigation. Due to this, the unit doesn't power down until I open a door after shutting it down. I don't know if this may help cause the pop, but I have my suspicions that it couldn't help.


----------



## _Dejan_

Here-I-Come said:


> In expert mode you still *can not* make the slopes different on the Hi-pass and low-pass if the filter type is set to Band-pass. If you set the Lo-P to say Linkwitz 24db, the Hi-P has the same slope. The drop down arrow is greyed out for the Hi-P when Band-pass filter type is selected.
> 
> If you can make them different slopes, then with 1.5 software and Firmware install it did change it. Becuase with 1.0.7.1 and 1.3 you can not.


I think I know what you would like tell us.
If you select band pass you can set slope for both(lo&hi) pass in Lo-P Slope list box and you can't select diferent slopes for high and diferent for low pass...


----------



## michaelsil1

monkeyboy said:


> Yes, I updated my bit one to 1.5 last night. Still have the digital Morse Code.
> 
> I think that the turn off thump has something to do with my combination. I do have the turn on wire wired from my head unit to the B1, and the output of the B1 to my amp.


Jim,

Congratulations on the update. 

How many points are you going to deduct for noise? :jester:


----------



## _Dejan_

For guys with DRC noise problem:
Did you try disconect your headunit as sound souce and connect to low input something like USB player or notebook which have SELF power from self battery and DO NOT use same battery as BitOne&Amplifiers? I can confirm if I listen by phone&notebook I do not have any beeping, but when Im try listen by carpc whic use same battery Im have DRC noise by low input but not by optical input...


----------



## _Dejan_

Today Im put back my CarPC and try bit one again with optical input. I can confirm that there is no any engine noise or DRC beeping, but Im find next thing:
In sound card options I can select quality of output signal on optical out.
i have option 16Bit or 24Bit and few sample rates.
Im try next:
24Bit 44.1kHz - all work ok
24Bit 48kHz - all work ok
24Bit 96kHz - all work ok but I think quality is decreased
24Bit 192kHz - From tweeter I receive loud noise, DRC after 2 sec frezze and then turn off(from tweeter playing loud noise), turn of ignition(remote input on BitOne disconected from 12V), bit one reproducing noise without changes. Ony take power from BitOne help and stop reproducing loud noise.
Next week I will test what is with low level input if I connect it with CarPC...


----------



## michaelsil1

I have the DRZ and was wondering if anyone has done the optical out from the HU into the optical in on the Bit One? 

Did you notice a difference?


----------



## data_mine

_Dejan_ said:


> Today Im put back my CarPC and try bit one again with optical input. I can confirm that there is no any engine noise or DRC beeping, but Im find next thing:
> In sound card options I can select quality of output signal on optical out.
> i have option 16Bit or 24Bit and few sample rates.
> Im try next:
> 24Bit 44.1kHz - all work ok
> *24Bit 48kHz - all work ok*
> 24Bit 96kHz - all work ok but I think quality is decreased
> 24Bit 192kHz - From tweeter I receive loud noise, DRC after 2 sec frezze and then turn off(from tweeter playing loud noise), turn of ignition(remote input on BitOne disconected from 12V), bit one reproducing noise without changes. Ony take power from BitOne help and stop reproducing loud noise.
> Next week I will test what is with low level input if I connect it with CarPC...


Well according to the manual, 48/24 is the highest the BitOne supports.


----------



## _Dejan_

data_mine said:


> Well according to the manual, 48/24 is the highest the BitOne supports.


I know that in manual is writen that max supported is 24Bit and 48kHz but Im try to tell if someone will try 192kHz bitOne will Freeze and reproduce very loud noise on speakers and you can stop it only with disconecting power conector or fuse...


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I have the DRZ and was wondering if anyone has done the optical out from the HU into the optical in on the Bit One?
> 
> Did you notice a difference?


Michael, I have the optical connected on my DRZ, and I CANNOT detect any sonic difference between it and the Analog output. 

That's not what I expected.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> Regarding the turn off thump, I have that too, and I was told by Larry Penn that it's related to how you have the remote turn on/off wired. It must be set up so that the Bit One, and not your head unit, is triggering the amp because the Bit One stays cycled up for a while after power to it has been turned off.


Both my units were wired correctly according to this statement. HU to B1, then to amps. I had thumping at power up and sometimes power off.


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> Both my units were wired correctly according to this statement. HU to B1, then to amps. I had thumping at power up and sometimes power off.


I had mine rewired today and we still had the violent turn off thump. Further testing showed that my DLS A6 cycles off very slowly, resulting in the turn off thump. We inserted a Navone Engineering N-807 turn off pop eliminator and that resolved the issue. Before the rewiring, the N-807 did not work. Your amp could be the culprit, and you might want to try one of these N-807's, and/or one of Navone's turn-on delay devices. Give him a call. He knows his stuff.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Buzzman said:


> I had mine rewired today and we still had the violent turn off thump. Further testing showed that my DLS A6 cycles off very slowly, resulting in the turn off thump. We inserted a Navone Engineering N-807 turn off pop eliminator and that resolved the issue. Before the rewiring, the N-807 did not work. Your amp could be the culprit, and you might want to try one of these N-807's, and/or one of Navone's turn-on delay devices. Give him a call. He knows his stuff.



This is good advice, thank you. I too, have the DLS A6. Will do.

Edit: I found his website but it is completely down. Went to his eBay store and it does not have any N807s. Can you assist me further by telling me how you made contact with Navone? Thank you.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Buzzman said:


> I had mine rewired today and we still had the violent turn off thump. Further testing showed that my DLS A6 cycles off very slowly, resulting in the turn off thump. We inserted a Navone Engineering N-807 turn off pop eliminator and that resolved the issue. Before the rewiring, the N-807 did not work. Your amp could be the culprit, and you might want to try one of these N-807's, and/or one of Navone's turn-on delay devices. Give him a call. He knows his stuff.


Might have to look into this myself, I'm also using the A6 as my sub amp. You have correct it has a very slow/soft shutdown one of the slowest I've seen.

Is his sit up and running I can seem to reach it?


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> This is good advice, thank you. I too, have the DLS A6. Will do.
> 
> Edit: I found his website but it is completely down. Went to his eBay store and it does not have any N807s. Can you assist me further by telling me how you made contact with Navone? Thank you.


[email protected]


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Michael, I have the optical connected on my DRZ, and I CANNOT detect any sonic difference between it and the Analog output.
> 
> That's not what I expected.


I already laid out the money for the cable; this is not what I wanted to hear!


----------



## Buzzman

ARCuhTEK said:


> This is good advice, thank you. I too, have the DLS A6. Will do.
> 
> Edit: I found his website but it is completely down. Went to his eBay store and it does not have any N807s. Can you assist me further by telling me how you made contact with Navone? Thank you.


He has been having some problems with the website the past few weeks. You can reach him at: (209) 465-6139. He is in Stockton, CA. Really nice guy, by the way, and really knowledgeable.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> I already laid out the money for the cable; this is not what I wanted to hear!


Based on my experience, and because I trust my ears and the quality of the install, I would send the cable back and get a refund. Seriously.


----------



## monkeyboy

michaelsil1 said:


> Jim,
> 
> Congratulations on the update.
> 
> How many points are you going to deduct for noise? :jester:


2, 1 for the turn off pop, and 1 for the zero bit noise 

I will get it resolved before my install is completed. There will be no noise.


----------



## t3sn4f2

For anyone interested in using a CarPC with a Bit One. Someone is developing a plugin for Centrafuse that will control the bit one's basic functions.

Audison Bit One - Plugin - Centrafuse Carputer, CarPC & UMPC Forums


----------



## ErinH

Pretty sweet. I was just telling a friend a few days ago that this summer I think I may tackle a carPC just for front end (no processing built in, though). 

Thanks for the link. I'll have to bookmark that for later.


----------



## _Dejan_

t3sn4f2 said:


> For anyone interested in using a CarPC with a Bit One. Someone is developing a plugin for Centrafuse that will control the bit one's basic functions.
> 
> Audison Bit One - Plugin - Centrafuse Carputer, CarPC & UMPC Forums


Hi,
I think that plugin will not be completed soon because they are said me that they will start in next months with developing SDK/carpc application which will have same features as have DRC. For configuring you must use Bit One application...


----------



## t3sn4f2

_Dejan_ said:


> Hi,
> I think that plugin will not be completed soon because they are said me that they will start in next months with developing SDK/carpc application which will have same features as have DRC. For configuring you must use Bit One application...


Ah ok, thanks for the update.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I will be nice, I built a carpc just to run the tunning software,Navi and to play movies . Well if was for the UCS Pro, now it for the Bit One. If this comes to be, it will be great. 

He posted about it in this thread, I think its a few pages back.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Here-I-Come said:


> I will be nice, I built a carpc just to run the tunning software,Navi and to play movies . Well if was for the UCS Pro, now it for the Bit One. If this comes to be, it will be great.
> 
> *He posted about it in this thread, I think its a few pages back.*


I remember the post now, didn't know it was for a front end though. I thought it would be a whole separate app with big buttons and stuff.


----------



## _Dejan_

I will post details about plugin on Centrafuse Forum.
When It will be completed I will post here too...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just talked to Audison/Elettromedia today about the status of my replacement unit. In doing so, I asked them if they had an estimate of what percentage of units have been found to have the two known issues. They said approximately 10-15%.

They also said the next shipment of units will have a newly designed pc board. That shipment is due in May. They did not know when in May but asked me to call next week for a more definitive answer.

They are testing all Bit Ones that are being returned in one and/or two cars they have set up on site for this purpose as well as bench testing.


----------



## michaelsil1

I have a question regarding the EQ Wizard (easy mode), does it override your EQ settings?


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> Just talked to Audison/Elettromedia today about the status of my replacement unit. In doing so, I asked them if they had an estimate of what percentage of units have been found to have the two known issues. They said approximately 10-15%.
> 
> They also said the next shipment of units will have a newly designed pc board. That shipment is due in May. They did not know when in May but asked me to call next week for a more definitive answer.
> 
> They are testing all Bit Ones that are being returned in one and/or two cars they have set up on site for this purpose as well as bench testing.


Does this mean that anyone who has already bought a unit gets a free replacement?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

michaelsil1 said:


> Does this mean that anyone who has already bought a unit gets a free replacement?


I am sure it does if you are experiencing issues. If you are in the 85% of Bit One owners who are not, then why would you want a replacement?


----------



## autofile

I have one of these new pcb units I am going to be installing for testing.
When I have the unit installed, I can update you all on its performance.




ARCuhTEK said:


> Just talked to Audison/Elettromedia today about the status of my replacement unit. In doing so, I asked them if they had an estimate of what percentage of units have been found to have the two known issues. They said approximately 10-15%.
> 
> They also said the next shipment of units will have a newly designed pc board. That shipment is due in May. They did not know when in May but asked me to call next week for a more definitive answer.
> 
> They are testing all Bit Ones that are being returned in one and/or two cars they have set up on site for this purpose as well as bench testing.


----------



## michaelsil1

autofile said:


> I have one of these new pcb units I am going to be installing for testing.
> When I have the unit installed, I can update you all on its performance.


Peter,

Was your old unit giving you any problems?


----------



## autofile

Nope.




michaelsil1 said:


> Peter,
> 
> Was your old unit giving you any problems?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

autofile said:


> I have one of these new pcb units I am going to be installing for testing.
> When I have the unit installed, I can update you all on its performance.


Noob question....what does pcb mean exactly Peter?


----------



## t3sn4f2

ARCuhTEK said:


> Noob question....what does pcb mean exactly Peter?


Printed circuit board - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## BigRed

Pac makes a module that will delay turn-off and can be adjusted by seconds as well. it runs about $10.


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## Melodic Acoustic

BigRed said:


> Pac makes a module that will delay turn-off and can be adjusted by seconds as well. it runs about $10.


The problem with the DLS A6 is it stays on longer then the Bit One which has a turn-off of its own. I would guess the Bit 1 has this just for this exact reason, to allow your amps to turn off first, so you do not get the thumb. But the A6 has a super slow soft shutdown so its staying on longer then the bit 1. The Navone module shuts down the RCA input to the amp so no signal passes.

Now I guess you could use the PAC turn-off delay module on the remote turn-on from your headunit to the Bit 1 to keep in on longer to allow the A6 or any other amp with a super slow shutdown time to power down completely first. Hmmm I think the DEI 611 latching reply will do the same thing. I have about 4 or 5 of them around here somewhere I will have to look into it.

Good Idea BigRed.


----------



## quality_sound

Ok, I helped swap out a unit that was running fine once it had a decoupler installed with one of the prototype new board layout units today. The new units was dead silent. No noise floor issue, no morse code, no turn-on or turn off pops and the remote turn-ons weren't even wired the way they the manual says. 

Basically, the new board revision seems to have rectified EVERY known issue I've heard of. I can't wait to get mine in.


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## data_mine

quality_sound said:


> Ok, I helped swap out a unit that was running fine once it had a decoupler installed with one of the prototype new board layout units today. The new units was dead silent. No noise floor issue, no morse code, no turn-on or turn off pops and the remote turn-ons weren't even wired the way they the manual says.
> 
> Basically, the new board revision seems to have rectified EVERY known issue I've heard of. I can't wait to get mine in.


Nice, hope they get these 'out there' quickly (but only after proper testing this time).

Mine's got a rather drastic workaround fitted to drop the noise floor issue I was having. Spent all day today (and a 600KM round trip) with my nearest Audison dealer diagnosing, troubleshooting, trying everything no matter how stupid/simple.

But it's no fix. So come on Audison.


----------



## less

Hey all,

*THANKS ALL - SEVERAL RESPONSES HAVE ANSWERED THIS FOR ME!! =)*
Could someone please supply me (VIA PM OR EMAIL) with the name and contact information of the person they are working with at Audison/Elettromedia (sp?) who is involved directly with the Bit One. I'll explain my motivation for contacting them in a pm or email in advance if you require, but I just have a simple question or two with reference to the Bit One and can't find an appropriate person to answer my question. I'll not tell who gave me the information but more importantly, its a simple business question and there is no reason for them to be troubled at your sharing their business contact information.

Thanks very much! PM me - or use my email: jim.hickerson -at- charter.net


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## ARCuhTEK

I dont mind sharing, especially since they have come aboard here and posted it them selves. I will find their post above and link it back here in just a second. I have talked to the following:

Larry Federicks
Yousseff Phillips - 877-567-3030



Audison - Hertz said:


> To all DIYMA Forum members
> 
> On Behalf of the entire Elettromedia team, we would like to thank you for your comments on the Audison Bit One. Your positive comments encourage us, and those of you with concerns and questions, fuel us to improve both our products and our company.
> 
> As we are sure most of you are aware, Elettromedia has been manufacturing products under the Audison, Connection and Hertz brands for over 23 years. During this time the products that our engineering team have brought to life have been awarded many industry accolades. The Audison Bit One represents the accumulation of over 3 years in research and development. For those of you who have had a chance to experience the features and sound quality of the Bit One, we are sure you can appreciate our efforts. The Bit One represents the newest technologies, designed to make OEM integration a possibility, and improve sound quality of any mobile audio system utilizing aftermarket amplifiers.
> 
> You can rest assured that Elettromedia did not knowingly release a product with known issues. As with any PC controlled device, such as many of you have experienced with other peripherals, certain connectivity issues may occur. We are thankful that these issues have been brought to our attention by dedicated car audio enthusiasts like yourselves so we can continue to develop solutions.
> 
> We want to assure you that Elettromedia is extremely dedicated to customer service, and will guarantee those of you with issues that they will be professionally and promptly resolved. With input from the field, our engineering team has diligently resolved the common problems that you may be experiencing with the Bit One. We ask that those of you with concerns please visit the Authorized Dealer that your Bit One was purchased from. Systems have been put in place by Elettromedia to support your dealer in handling your concerns in an expedient manner.
> 
> Please feel free to contact Matt Severaid, Director of Marketing for Elettromedia USA @ 8*7*7-567-3030 ext 109 or Larry Frederick, Technical Director for Elettromedia USA @ 949-335-8192 (mobile) or Larry Penn, Americas Area Manager for Elettromedia Italy @ 403-554-4357 (mobile).
> 
> Again, we thank you for your comments, and we look forward to hearing from you.


BTW the 887 number above, which Audison-Herta originally posted, is incorrect (typo) it is 877-567-3030. You can see I put the other "7" in bold to show my correction.


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## RiZLa

How important is the headunit when you are using the bit one as a dsp when using the optical or rca signal? 

Are there any sonic differences between optical and rca?

I currently have a Pioneer RS-D7R2 and are keen to add a Pioneer Navi/multimedia unit to my car and if i can keep it down to one unit in my car it would be nice.


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## data_mine

Make sure whatever head unit you choose works with the BitOne's limitations, that is it doesn't decode multi-channel. only supports Stereo signals at up to 48KHz/24Bit.

There should be zero difference between optical and coaxial digital. If you mean RCA (analogue) coax as long as you've got good clean signal, it should be as good as digital.


----------



## data_mine

Make sure whatever head unit you choose works with the BitOne's limitations, that is it doesn't decode multi-channel. only supports Stereo signals at up to 48KHz/24Bit.

There should be zero difference between optical and coaxial digital. If you mean RCA (analogue) coax as long as you've got good clean signal, it should be as good as digital.


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## braves6117

quality_sound said:


> Ok, I helped swap out a unit that was running fine once it had a decoupler installed with one of the prototype new board layout units today. The new units was dead silent. No noise floor issue, no morse code, no turn-on or turn off pops and the remote turn-ons weren't even wired the way they the manual says.
> 
> Basically, the new board revision seems to have rectified EVERY known issue I've heard of. I can't wait to get mine in.




Excellent news, can't wait for dispatch epper::guitarist:


----------



## _Dejan_

data_mine said:


> Make sure whatever head unit you choose works with the BitOne's limitations, that is it doesn't decode multi-channel. only supports Stereo signals at up to 48KHz/24Bit.
> 
> There should be zero difference between optical and coaxial digital. If you mean RCA (analogue) coax as long as you've got good clean signal, it should be as good as digital.


Yes by optical support only stereo. But by RCA you can have 5.1 in car...


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## RiZLa

The good thing about my Pioneer RS-D7R2 unit is that it has an inbuilt volum clock "before" the signal goes out the optical. (DEX-P9, P90 also have this) So i can use the volume on the cd unit and not on the DRC. I would have to get a converter from Pioneers own optical connector to toslink though.


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## Melodic Acoustic

RiZLa said:


> The good thing about my Pioneer RS-D7R2 unit is that it has an inbuilt volum clock "before" the signal goes out the optical. (DEX-P9, P90 also have this) So i can use the volume on the cd unit and not on the DRC. I would have to get a converter from Pioneers own optical connector to toslink though.


Is the optical connector on the RS-D7R2 the same 4 pin connector like on the DEX-P9? If so the new Alpine cable (don't remember the model number) for the W505 to the H701 will work, or if you can find one of these two the older Eclpise DDL Glass Fiber cable or the Panasonic CA-LRD60.


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## RiZLa

Here-I-Come said:


> Is the optical connector on the RS-D7R2 the same 4 pin connector like on the DEX-P9? If so the new Alpine cable (don't remember the model number) for the W505 to the H701 will work, or if you can find one of these two the older Eclpise DDL Glass Fiber cable or the Panasonic CA-LRD60.


Yep, it's the same. They have used the same cable since the first ODR stuff came. So, the old odr unit, dex-p9, dex-p90rs and the RS-D7R uses the same cable. Thanks for the tip!


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## hernanrod

bit one firmware update to v1.5 successful
bit one software update to v1.5 successful
drc firmware uptate to v1.5 successful

1) drc morse code noise issue NOT solved, and now this noise is louder
2) on/off pop noises issue NOT solved
3) NEW pop noises on pause/start/skip/back music

so... will wait for new pcb on b1 to claim replacement


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## ARCuhTEK

hernanrod said:


> bit one firmware update to v1.5 successful
> bit one software update to v1.5 successful
> drc firmware uptate to v1.5 successful
> 
> 1) drc morse code noise issue NOT solved, and now this noise is louder
> 2) on/off pop noises issue NOT solved
> 3) NEW pop noises on pause/start/skip/back music
> 
> so... will wait for new pcb on b1 to claim replacement


Thank you for letting us know.

I purposely and intentionally let Elettromedia know that I did not want a replacement until the new pcb was imported (sometime in May).

Your post makes me think I made the right decision.


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## Buzzman

DRZ/Bit One Optical Update -

A prior post asked whether anyone using the Clarion DRZ9255 and the Bit One noticed any differences between the analog and optical ouput operations. I responded that I detected no differences. Well, I was wrong, and here is an update:

I just realized that in order to hear the digital signal coming from the source, I needed to press the knob on the DRC to select the "optical" input, and not "master". That's what I get for not reading the manual closely. So, I now have to modify my original assessment of the analog vs. optical digital performance of the DRZ/Bit One combo. There is a difference, though not dramatic. I found that the optical option has what I would call a "blacker" background, with less grain. Not quieter in a noise sense, but the background now allows the music be more rounded, with less apparent distortion. It's most noticeable on dynamic passages, where voice and instrumental crescendos don't have as much "bite" or "edge" to them. They are smoother, and still dynamic. I also find the bass to have just a tad more weight, which has the effect of adding a bit more body to the midrange. The placement of voices and instruments is a bit for focused. The sound stage also appears to be raised a bit. For my listening, I will continue to use the optical option. If you already have spent $ on the optical cabling for the DRZ, I now say, use it. If you haven't, the difference isn't dramatic enough to warrant the expenditure of time and $ on the cable, modification and install unless you really want that extra 10% - 15% improvement. The analog output stage of the DRZ is that good.


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## CraigE

It seems that the B1 only allows phase control for a set of channels, meaning both left and right channels, of a speaker group.
I can't invert the phase of one side (L or R) individually, even in expert mode.
There's nothing in the manual on this.
I installed the new soft/firmware and was hoping that had changed.

Buzzman, you were correct, my mids were out of phase with the midbass and tweeters.
Man you have good ears.


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## data_mine

I really don't see a problem with that, as you can make the change yourself. It's not like they give you 0-360° control at 1° increments. It's a simple 0/180 switch. Change the wiring.


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## ErinH

CraigE said:


> It seems that the B1 only allows phase control for a set of channels, meaning both left and right channels, of a speaker group.
> I can't invert the phase of one side (L or R) individually, even in expert mode.
> There's nothing in the manual on this.
> I installed the new soft/firmware and was hoping that had changed.


That is not correct.

You can individually flip the phase on a single speaker. Make sure that you turn the shared x-overs off, though.


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## CraigE

Thanks man,:thumbsup: I'm sure that's it.
Since I have both sides crossed the same I think I just left the xover link activated.
I'm going to check now.

UPDATE: Yep, that was it.
Again Thanks,


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## Buzzman

CraigE said:


> It seems that the B1 only allows phase control for a set of channels, meaning both left and right channels, of a speaker group.
> I can't invert the phase of one side (L or R) individually, even in expert mode.
> There's nothing in the manual on this.
> I installed the new soft/firmware and was hoping that had changed.
> 
> 
> 
> Craig, Bikinpunk is correct. Just make sure you click on the blue light that links the Xover, and you can invert phase for each speaker individually.
> 
> 
> 
> CraigE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Buzzman, you were correct, my mids were out of phase with the midbass and tweeters. Man you have good ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Between that and guessing the SPL level on the track we were listening to in my car (within 1db) I have some other tricks up my sleeve.  I am glad things are working out so you can have maximum enjoyment of your music. Another Bit One is going in my car today, which supposedly is free of the issues the first 2 presented. So, I am keeping my fingers crossed. If all goes OK, let's plan a listening (and tuning for you) session this weekend.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


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## michaelsil1

CraigE said:


> It seems that the B1 only allows phase control for a set of channels, meaning both left and right channels, of a speaker group.
> I can't invert the phase of one side (L or R) individually, even in expert mode.
> There's nothing in the manual on this.
> I installed the new soft/firmware and was hoping that had changed.
> 
> Buzzman, you were correct, my mids were out of phase with the midbass and tweeters.
> Man you have good ears.





bikinpunk said:


> That is not correct.
> 
> You can individually flip the phase on a single speaker. Make sure that you turn the shared x-overs off, though.


Bikinpunk is correct! 


Craig,

Did changing the Phase help the Saxophone?

Don does have good ears.


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## zatchmo

I was considering getting one of these for my next build but I don't have a dealer anywhere near me. (Bismarck, ND) Is there any place online I can get one? Is there a dealer here that would be willing to sell me one and ship it? I don't want to take a chance with no warranty on one of these devices.


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## braves6117

PM'd you Zatchmo


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## zatchmo

duplicate........


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## zatchmo

braves6117 said:


> PM'd you Zatchmo


Thanks a ton :thumbsup: 

Now I just have to wait for the new board. I'm in no hurry.


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## Buzzman

data_mine said:


> Make sure whatever head unit you choose works with the BitOne's limitations, that is it doesn't decode multi-channel. only supports Stereo signals at up to 48KHz/24Bit.
> 
> There should be zero difference between optical and coaxial digital. If you mean RCA (analogue) coax as long as you've got good clean signal, it should be as good as digital.


The Bit One has no problem receiving a 96KHz signal from my Clarion DRZ9255. With regard to the differences between analog and digital outputs, as I noted in a prior post, there are differences, and the analog stage of the DRZ is damn good.


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## Buzzman

*Bit One Update:*

Yesterday, I went to my installer to have the new Bit One (my third) that Elettromedia was sending me, installed. This one was supposed to have the current firmare installed in the processor and the DRC. I was hopeful, but since the last one I received was supposed to have been similarly upgraded and was not, I was a bit skeptical. Bit One #2 was hooked up to my laptop and was quickly revealed to still have firmware version 1.0.7.1. OK, no big deal, I just upgraded the firmware myself. But, just as with Bit One #1, I could not get my computer to execute the DRC firmware upgrade to 1.5. And, just like Bit One #1, Bit One #2 had a channel that would not output music. So, I had my fingers crossed about Bit One #3. Well, it arrived all shiny and new, was installed, I hooked up my laptop, and voila, firware version 1.0.7.1 again!  OK, I updated the firmware, but could not immediately confirm what firmware was on the DRC. So, I called Larry Penn of Elettromedia who was in So. Cal. troubleshooting Bit Ones with the powers that be at Elettromedia. He was shocked to hear that the one I received did not have the 1.5 firmware. After answering a few questions, he said he had to do some research and would call me back. Ten minutes later, at about 11:00 a.m, "Hi Don, this is Larry Penn. Ken Wiseman and I are going to drive up to Thousand Oaks and personally hand deliver a properly set-up Bit One to you."  Wow, the two of them were going to drive about 95 miles in LA traffic to make sure I had a properly working unit in my car!! Unbelievable. I have never heard of anything like this before. And, what made it even more shocking to me is that the Bit One is the ONLY Audison component I have in my ride. 

Fast forward to 2:30, Larry and Ken arrive, new Bit One box in hand, Larry jumps in my trunk, removes Bit One # 3, installs Bit One #4, watches me install the software etc., double checks my work, confirms that everything is OK, and I am again in Bit One heaven.  So, to Ken Wiseman, Larry Penn and the rest of the gang at Elettromedia USA, I say, THANKS for exhibiting the best customer service from a manufacturer I have ever experienced. :2thumbsup: And to all of you contemplating buying a Bit One, I say don't hesitate to jump in head first a month or so from now when the second generation unit hits the market because I am convinced the issues reported in the field will have been repaired. If you can't wait that long (and given the sonic results it delivers we Bit One owners will fully understand if you can't ), Audison has been aggressively analyzing the current generation units and making necessary fixes, and with customer service like this, there is not much down side. But, wait, and you will quite satisfied.


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## quality_sound

I can't wait for mine.


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## Technic

I guess that I can't expect any guys from Electtromedia to fly to Ft. Lauderdale if I continue to have issues with my hopefully-coming-soon bit one #2...


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## chad

Buzzman, I just searched this thread under your UN and lost count as to how many times you said that you have had no issues with this unit, if this is the case then why have you been thru 4 of them?


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## michaelsil1

I'm having issues with my Bit One now; it has started giving me Morse Code through the Mid Range and the Optical setting on the DRC will not always go back to Master. When I go to Optical on the DRC there's a loud pop and when I try to go back to Master the DRC will shut off locking the Bit One in the on position; I have to unplug the power on the Bit One to reset it then I'm good to go again.


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## braves6117

I too have digital beeping. Its very mild, but audible when the unit is not receiving an input signal.


As soon as the second gen comes to market, I'll be provided one


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## braves6117

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm having issues with my Bit One now; it has started giving me Morse Code through the Mid Range and the Optical setting on the DRC will not always go back to Master. When I go to Optical on the DRC there's a loud pop and when I try to go back to Master the DRC will shut off locking the Bit One in the on position; I have to unplug the power on the Bit One to reset it then I'm good to go again.


Locking up, unplugging power,  sounds like a computer to me lol


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## michaelsil1

braves6117 said:


> Locking up, unplugging power,  sounds like a computer to me lol


It is a Computer. 

I don't have easy access to the unit so it's a pain in the *Ass* to reset it. 

I talked to Larry and he told me to replace it with the new one coming out in a month. 

I'm happy with the customer support, but the issues are *Issues!*


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## braves6117

michaelsil1 said:


> It is a Computer.
> 
> *Issues!*


Yup, I know, I was just being sarcastic. 


I was told the same regarding a unit replacement as well.


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## michaelsil1

braves6117 said:


> Yup, I know, I was just being sarcastic.
> 
> 
> I was told the same regarding a unit replacement as well.


Hopefully the new PCB works like a charm.


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## quality_sound

michaelsil1 said:


> Hopefully the new PCB works like a charm.


Yes, it does work. I've personally seen it. The new PCB version is dead silent under ALL circumstances. Be patient, there is light at the end of the tunnel.


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## skylar112

They say babies react favorable to certain noises, it's soothing and calming to them. Throw that badboy in the baby's room, rock that kid to sleep. Don't need music when noises can do it.

Oh I guess that's not what the Bit One is meant to do huh?


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## ErinH

chad said:


> Buzzman, I just searched this thread under your UN and lost count as to how many times you said that you have had no issues with this unit, if this is the case then why have you been thru 4 of them?


eggzachary what I was thinking. You've said in this thread a few times that "others aren't having this problem" but you're on your 4th now? Man, when you were alluding that the folks who were having problems simply didn't know how to install it, were you on your 1st or 2nd bit one? 




quality_sound said:


> Yes, it does work. I've personally seen it. The new PCB version is dead silent under ALL circumstances. *Be patient, there is light at the end of the tunnel.*


Patient = 4 months. I'm the most patient guy in the world! lol




I know there’s progress being made. Just sayin’. I haven’t posted much in this thread at all lately because, frankly, I’m over it. I’ve already moved on. When I get my replacement (who knows when it will be) I’ll probably stick it up on the shelf for future use. Kinda crazy to think that I bought my first one back in December, and still don’t have a working bit one. I understand there are problems, but what can you say to 4 months of no use? Know what I mean?

Anyway, there’s no sense in beating a dead horse. I just find some humor in some of the comments being made.


“ooooh, I got my 3rd bit one today and can’t wait to hear it noise free”

“crap, my 3rd one doesn’t work… I’ve had it!”

“alright, I’ve got my 4th bit one… I can’t wait to get it installed”

“well, the 4th one doesn’t work. I can’t believe Audison would do this!!!! I’m not going to even bother anymore… I just want a refund.”

“got my 17th bit one in today. Same noise… now my car is on fire. WTF!”


----------



## HIS4

Technic said:


> I guess that I can't expect any guys from Electtromedia to fly to Ft. Lauderdale if I continue to have issues with my hopefully-coming-soon bit one #2...


Same here. Now if they flew into Honolulu and hand delivered a BitOne to me that would be impressive!


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## quality_sound

bikinpunk said:


> eggzachary what I was thinking. You've said in this thread a few times that "others aren't having this problem" but you're on your 4th now? Man, when you were alluding that the folks who were having problems simply didn't know how to install it, were you on your 1st or 2nd bit one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patient = 4 months. I'm the most patient guy in the world! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there’s progress being made. Just sayin’. I haven’t posted much in this thread at all lately because, frankly, I’m over it. I’ve already moved on. When I get my replacement (who knows when it will be) I’ll probably stick it up on the shelf for future use. Kinda crazy to think that I bought my first one back in December, and still don’t have a working bit one. I understand there are problems, but what can you say to 4 months of no use? Know what I mean?
> 
> Anyway, there’s no sense in beating a dead horse. I just find some humor in some of the comments being made.
> 
> 
> “ooooh, I got my 3rd bit one today and can’t wait to hear it noise free”
> 
> “crap, my 3rd one doesn’t work… I’ve had it!”
> 
> “alright, I’ve got my 4th bit one… I can’t wait to get it installed”
> 
> “well, the 4th one doesn’t work. I can’t believe Audison would do this!!!! I’m not going to even bother anymore… I just want a refund.”
> 
> “got my 17th bit one in today. Same noise… now my car is on fire. WTF!”


The difference is the new PCB version has been tested and is in production. We KNOW it works. Before it was a new unit that had bugs that no one wanted to hear about when I said it. You know as well as anyone, I wanted one but not a buggy one. I waited. Now they're good and mine is on the way.


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## ErinH

quality_sound said:


> The difference is the new PCB version has been tested and is in production. We KNOW it works. Before it was a new unit that had bugs that no one wanted to hear about when I said it. You know as well as anyone, I wanted one but not a buggy one. I waited. Now they're good and mine is on the way.


I think you missed my point, Paul. Or maybe you didn't. Either way, I'm not arguing about it. We all know what's gone on with this thing because so many (not just myself) have discussed their problems. And, my source is your source so I know what you're talking about. 

rock n' roll, fool!


----------



## skylar112

bikinpunk said:


> eggzachary what I was thinking. You've said in this thread a few times that "others aren't having this problem" but you're on your 4th now? Man, when you were alluding that the folks who were having problems simply didn't know how to install it, were you on your 1st or 2nd bit one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patient = 4 months. I'm the most patient guy in the world! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there’s progress being made. Just sayin’. I haven’t posted much in this thread at all lately because, frankly, I’m over it. I’ve already moved on. When I get my replacement (who knows when it will be) I’ll probably stick it up on the shelf for future use. Kinda crazy to think that I bought my first one back in December, and still don’t have a working bit one. I understand there are problems, but what can you say to 4 months of no use? Know what I mean?
> 
> Anyway, there’s no sense in beating a dead horse. I just find some humor in some of the comments being made.
> 
> 
> “ooooh, I got my 3rd bit one today and can’t wait to hear it noise free”
> 
> “crap, my 3rd one doesn’t work… I’ve had it!”
> 
> “alright, I’ve got my 4th bit one… I can’t wait to get it installed”
> 
> “well, the 4th one doesn’t work. I can’t believe Audison would do this!!!! I’m not going to even bother anymore… I just want a refund.”
> 
> “got my 17th bit one in today. Same noise… now my car is on fire. WTF!”



You gotta love it when a company quality controls on your time.


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## Buzzman

chad said:


> Buzzman, I just searched this thread under your UN and lost count as to how many times you said that you have had no issues with this unit, if this is the case then why have you been thru 4 of them?


Well, you couldn't have "lost count" because my posts are readily identifiable. Anyway, let's set the record straight. At the time I wrote those statements, I WAS NOT having ANY issues, and did not have ANY issues for quite some time afterwards. My issues arose in the last week when I noticed with #1 that I had no music from one of my channels. Why, I don't know. A simple reboot and re-install solved it. However, it reappeared and this time around the reboot wouldn't work. So, I was sent a new one (Number 2). I wasn't about to try any technical self-fixes like others on here have tried. No. 2 had the same problem, so I listened to my set-up as a 2-way, rather than 3-way, and I was sent #3, which arrived yesterday. However, I never even listened to it because #4 was hand delivered and replaced it.


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## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> eggzachary what I was thinking. You've said in this thread a few times that "others aren't having this problem" but you're on your 4th now? Man, when you were alluding that the folks who were having problems simply didn't know how to install it, were you on your 1st or 2nd bit one?  . . .


See my response to Chad.


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## quality_sound

bikinpunk said:


> I think you missed my point, Paul. Or maybe you didn't. Either way, I'm not arguing about it. We all know what's gone on with this thing because so many (not just myself) have discussed their problems. And, my source is your source so I know what you're talking about.
> 
> rock n' roll, fool!


I wasn't trying to argue about it, just to point out why I said what I did. It's all gravy though.


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## ErinH

quality_sound said:


> I wasn't trying to argue about it, just to point out why I said what I did. It's all gravy though.


I know... I wasn't either. I meant to say that "i'm not actually arguing"... how's that?


*hug*


----------



## chad

So I guess it was not a shotty install causing the issues after all


----------



## quality_sound

bikinpunk said:


> I know... I wasn't either. I meant to say that "i'm not actually arguing"... how's that?
> 
> 
> *hug*


you're in my gay space... :uhoh2: oke:




chad said:


> So I guess it was not a shotty install causing the issues after all



Exactly.


----------



## michaelsil1

chad said:


> So I guess it was not a shotty install causing the issues after all


Not in my case.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Well I am awaiting the new PCB version just like many of you. But I will confess this....

Even though I believe I have half a brain and am able to understand (through research and just general knowledge) how to properly troubleshoot the unit, somewhere deep inside me, I had a slowly crushing thought that all of you guys are head and shoulders above me with knowledge and install capabilities. And that just MAYBE....my unit might be good and it MIGHT be my install.

I very aggressively stated here and other places that it was NOT my install. I really dont believe it is or was or will be. But we all know that self doubting feeling (kinda like when you know you are not speeding but there is a cop behind you ?). In the face of the more knowledgeable crowd here, I was secretly wondering.

I do not wish any negativity upon any of you, but I am somewhat glad to know that even advanced DIYers are having issues. We are all glad the resolution is in sight.

On the other hand....if one keeps count of the Bit Ones in the DIYMA family, does it not seem that the percentage of bad units is pretty darn near 80%?

I have lost count, but I think CraigE is the only person who has not had an issue....oohhh but didnt he post that he did? Doesnt matter I guess.....but thats a lot more than we originally thought on here. Now.....add in the fact that several members are on their 2, 3rd and 4th units....man thats a LOT of units.

When everyones unit is working like butta' is when all of you will out pace me with tweaking and tuning...cause Imma virgin!

Maybe next year I will be able to sit and talk to each of you about more depth, focused stage, on axis, off-axis, slopes, Db, octaves and all that jargon. OUt of the box that little bastard sounded great UNTIL I hit the accelerator.


----------



## CraigE

Nope... no problems so far.
I just installed the new soft/firmware and still no problems.:2thumbsup:
Hmmmm. I don't remember posting that I had any problems.


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> On the other hand....if one keeps count of the Bit Ones in the DIYMA family, does it not seem that the percentage of bad units is pretty darn near 80%?


Actually, other than the Australian distributor lying through his teeth about bad units down under, I'm pretty sure everyone with an old unit had or is having issues. 

But that's finally behind us. The new units are good to go and are in production and will be on the streets soon. Not soon enough for some, but at least Audison fixed the issues in a relatively timely manner.


----------



## data_mine

ARCuhTEK said:


> Even though I believe I have half a brain and am able to understand (through research and just general knowledge) how to properly troubleshoot the unit, somewhere deep inside me, I had a slowly crushing thought that all of you guys are head and shoulders above me with knowledge and install capabilities. And that just MAYBE....my unit might be good and it MIGHT be my install.
> 
> I very aggressively stated here and other places that it was NOT my install. I really dont believe it is or was or will be. But we all know that self doubting feeling (kinda like when you know you are not speeding but there is a cop behind you ?). In the face of the more knowledgeable crowd here, I was secretly wondering.


I too had my install, and choice of equipment brought into question. Both have been proved sound. When a DLS amp made the exact same amount of noise as my 'cheap and nasty' amps it was a satisfying moment. My car had all it's grounds checked, moved, rechecked.



quality_sound said:


> Actually, other than the Australian distributor lying through his teeth about bad units down under, I'm pretty sure everyone with an old unit had or is having issues.


I don't have exact figures, as we must communicate via the shadows it seems down here, we've also have a similarly large % of units faulty.

As I mentioned previously, a page or two back now, I've got a workaround in place. But I'm waiting for a new unit too.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Nope... no problems so far.
> I just installed the new soft/firmware and still no problems.:2thumbsup:
> Hmmmm. I don't remember posting that I had any problems.


That is cool....glad to hear it. I was uncertain of my memory when I posted that. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## muntos

Hello guys, I'm new to this forum and on this 12V music industry.
I've purchased a Bit One from my local dealer and I've noticed that from my point of view there are some problems with this unit, meaning I have noise in my speakers when I have no signal input (just open Bit One without signal coming from my CarPC through digital optic). The noise drops down when there is a signal but I can still hear it. On master input (RCA Ch1&ch2) is less audible than on Toslink. Also under certain circumstances I hear a pop up in speakers.
So after reading this forum I went with my Bit One to the dealer and he played with the gain from the amps, lowering it down until the noise fade up (but at this level I'm not satisfied with the sound level). The explanation he have it is that the output of Bit One is higher that on my Head Unit (Pioneer P85BT) and that's why the gain on amps should be lowered and he don's see anything wrong with the Bit One....
I said him about people on forums that have problems with Bit Ones and even Audison confirmed that there is a problem on certain units, but first they don't know pretty anything about this unit (they had only 2 Bit One, I bought the second one) I had to tell them about the update site (pass/user and so on...) and second they don't seem to be in real contact with Elettromedia.
So after reading and reading I don't know what to believe and what arguments to present to the dealer in order to admit that it could be a problem and eventually replace my unit.
My firmware indicated 1.0.6 I'm thinking to update it but not convinced that this will solve the problems and like my dealer said "the enemy of the good is the better" (or something like that  ), meaning why to update something this is working fine, I could have more problems doing that...
So like I said I'm newbie, my know ledges in this field are limited and I'm a little disadvantaged in my "fight" with the dealer, I'm thinking to write directly to Audison/Elettromedia to obtain some confirmation and the present it to local dealear.
What do you advise me to do ? 
Thank you in advance !


----------



## data_mine

muntos, sounds like you've got the 'high noise floor' problem, and the speaker pop problem.

the speaker pop, is fixed by the 1.5 software and firmware update. The high noise floor, I've got too, and am waiting on a fix (hoping the new hardware revision is the go).


----------



## _Dejan_

data_mine said:


> muntos, sounds like you've got the 'high noise floor' problem, and the speaker pop problem.
> 
> the speaker pop, is fixed by the 1.5 software and firmware update. The high noise floor, I've got too, and am waiting on a fix (hoping the new hardware revision is the go).


speaker pop is not fixed by 1.5 firmware...
When I restart pc I get pop in speakers. I have set up volume on DRC to -5db and hear pop in speakers it is not loud but I can normaly hear it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Muntos, It sounds like your dealer is way out of touch with Elettromedia. In this case, you are right and he is wrong. Recommend that he contact Elettromedia to discover the issues. DOnt try an argue them. The best argument that you could have is that the equipment he sold you has an old firmware installed and that Elettromedia has updated the software *two* times since your unit was released. 

Further more, I would write down the four main issues with the unit which have been discussed here and give it to him and tell him to ask about them when in contact with Elettromedia.

I know you have to tune an audio system, but to try and tune out noise or popping seems a bit odd to me. Especially if they guy was sitting in your car and heard it.


----------



## data_mine

_Dejan_ said:


> speaker pop is not fixed by 1.5 firmware...
> When I restart pc I get pop in speakers. I have set up volume on DRC to -5db and hear pop in speakers it is not loud but I can normaly hear it.


I wouldn't blame that on the BitOne. It's simply playing back what you're feeding it. And if you're feeding it on/off switch pops when the soundcard gets rebooted, that's what's going on.

The BitOne can only protect against on/off pops when it too is turning on/off.


----------



## monkeyboy

My turn off pop wasn't fixed either. I am not using a CarPC, and had no noise in my system prior to the Bit1 install.


----------



## Buzzman

monkeyboy said:


> My turn off pop wasn't fixed either. I am not using a CarPC, and had no noise in my system prior to the Bit1 install.


Have you configured your remote turn on/off as follows: out from HU to Bit One, Out from Bit One to In on your amplifiers?


----------



## quality_sound

^^^Which is VERY key on the Bit One. Apparently the turn on/off cycles are timed to avoid any noises.


----------



## monkeyboy

Buzzman said:


> Have you configured your remote turn on/off as follows: out from HU to Bit One, Out from Bit One to In on your amplifiers?


Has been from day one.

I know I'm not supposed to, but I read the manual before I installed it. 

I need to call them and request a fix, but I have been to busy at work to get it done. Where is Audison anyway?


----------



## braves6117

I'm pretty sure you'll need to get an RA number from your dealer to get the fix or a product swap. In terms of location, 45-1hr south of los angeles based on Buzzman's story


----------



## Buzzman

They are in Irvine.


----------



## USC_Gamecock

I just got a BitOne put in today. My dealer told me it was tested before they shipped out out to us this week -- it sounds absolutely flawless. I couldn't wait until the new release, I just rolled the dice on it -- so far so good!!!

My system is now "complete" -- I hope  ...

HU - Eclipse AVN5510
Amp - Audison LRX 5.1k
DSP - Audison BitOne
Front stage - Hertz MLK 165
Sub - Morel Ultimo 10
Car - 2005 Infiniti G35

Running it active, obviously, and I am completely happy with it so far (after the addition of the BitOne)


----------



## braves6117

Fight On fellow trojan! great news


----------



## ARCuhTEK

USC_Gamecock said:


> I just got a BitOne put in today. My dealer told me it was tested before they shipped out out to us this week -- it sounds absolutely flawless. I couldn't wait until the new release, I just rolled the dice on it -- so far so good!!!
> 
> My system is now "complete" -- I hope  ...
> 
> HU - Eclipse AVN5510
> Amp - Audison LRX 5.1k
> DSP - Audison BitOne
> Front stage - Hertz MLK 165
> Sub - Morel Ultimo 10
> Car - 2005 Infiniti G35
> 
> Running it active, obviously, and I am completely happy with it so far (after the addition of the BitOne)


Great news. How much tweaking have you done and are you 100% satisfied (or will you tweak and tune more)?

I am installing a Zapco DSP6 both as a test for my system to compare to the Bit One and also to fill the 30 day gap until the new Bit One (with improved pcb) arrives. So far, it is proving to take LONGER to get symbilink cables than it took to send my Bit One back to Irvine and have my second Bit One arrive here. I still do not have all my symbilink cables but they are all en route.

Moral of the story: "Its always something...."


----------



## USC_Gamecock

ARCuhTEK said:


> Great news. How much tweaking have you done and are you 100% satisfied (or will you tweak and tune more)?
> 
> I am installing a Zapco DSP6 both as a test for my system to compare to the Bit One and also to fill the 30 day gap until the new Bit One (with improved pcb) arrives. So far, it is proving to take LONGER to get symbilink cables than it took to send my Bit One back to Irvine and have my second Bit One arrive here. I still do not have all my symbilink cables but they are all en route.
> 
> Moral of the story: "Its always something...."


Well -- so far the shop has done all the tweaking for it. They tuned it, asked me how I liked it, what needed to change -- they tuned it again per my liking. It was much better -- but I can't load the settings on my laptop yet (so I'm not sure exactly how much they EQ'd/adjusted the signal), as they forgot the setup CD in their laptop, haha!!

So I will pick it up from them sometime this week. I have listened to it, and it still needs some adjustments. I guess I can say I am 100% satisfied with the unit because of the improvement it's already mande, and I think I know what adjustments need to be made. I am about 90% satisfied with the quality of the sound -- and I will be fixing that later this week once I pick that CD up from the dealer!


----------



## braves6117

USC_Gamecock said:


> Well -- so far the shop has done all the tweaking for it. They tuned it, asked me how I liked it, what needed to change -- they tuned it again per my liking. It was much better -- but I can't load the settings on my laptop yet (so I'm not sure exactly how much they EQ'd/adjusted the signal), as they forgot the setup CD in their laptop, haha!!
> 
> So I will pick it up from them sometime this week. I have listened to it, and it still needs some adjustments. I guess I can say I am 100% satisfied with the unit because of the improvement it's already mande, and I think I know what adjustments need to be made. I am about 90% satisfied with the quality of the sound -- and I will be fixing that later this week once I pick that CD up from the dealer!




When you have a chance do me a favor. When you have your head unit OFF, turn on the bitone via depressing the volume knob on the DRC for a few seconds, then check for digital beeping. Once done, press it down again for a few secs to turn it off.


----------



## USC_Gamecock

braves6117 said:


> When you have a chance do me a favor. When you have your head unit OFF, turn on the bitone via depressing the volume knob on the DRC for a few seconds, then check for digital beeping. Once done, press it down again for a few secs to turn it off.


I'll try that tomorrow, but there is something I noticed about the BitOne powering off. I notice that after the HU powers off (when I turn the radio off or turn the car off), the BitOne DRC stays on about 10 or 15 seconds, then it turns off. Seems like Audison built in this delay for some reason, I'm not sure why -- but nothing bad happens. There are no thumps, no beeps -- it just turns off 10 or 15 seconds after the HU powers off.


----------



## ErinH

Was defined for that. No thgumps when powering off because of it. Note the delay when powering on, too.


----------



## chad

I'd imagine it turns off late to eliminate turn off thumps .
Do you shoot roosters?


----------



## braves6117

The delay is normal.

Although I encountered a weird scenario just this afternoon.

I removed my negative battery terminal to work on my engine compartment, and after returning the negative terminal, the bit one powered from the head unit cycling the introduction of power again. I came into the cabin of the car to a powered bitone and amps as a result, with the head unit off ?


----------



## USC_Gamecock

chad said:


> I'd imagine it turns off late to eliminate turn off thumps .
> Do you shoot roosters?


lol -- nah, I don't shoot roosters, I got my undergrad. degree from University of South Carolina and derived my username from that ...


----------



## USC_Gamecock

bikinpunk said:


> Was defined for that. No thgumps when powering off because of it. Note the delay when powering on, too.





braves6117 said:


> The delay is normal.
> 
> Although I encountered a weird scenario just this afternoon.
> 
> I removed my negative battery terminal to work on my engine compartment, and after returning the negative terminal, the bit one powered from the head unit cycling the introduction of power again. I came into the cabin of the car to a powered bitone and amps as a result, with the head unit off ?


Cool, that makes a little sense!


----------



## monkeyboy

Buzzman said:


> They are in Irvine.


I work in Mission Viejo 

I will get the RA, but if they want it shipped back, I will be dropping it off. I have had too much stuff broken by UPS to ship a part that is on my way to work.


----------



## michaelsil1

monkeyboy said:


> I will get the RA



Get two, one's for me.


----------



## USC_Gamecock

braves6117 said:


> When you have a chance do me a favor. When you have your head unit OFF, turn on the bitone via depressing the volume knob on the DRC for a few seconds, then check for digital beeping. Once done, press it down again for a few secs to turn it off.


Tried it -- no digital beeping


----------



## braves6117

EXCELLENT


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Update from Elettromedia:

First small shipment of new units with new pcb should arrive at customs on May 1st. Should take about two weeks to clear customs and begin shipping out from Irvine facility to customers. I was quoted "approximately May 11th."

At that point the unit may actually beat my shipment of Symbilink cables...LOL Which means I will have two DSP-6's for sale around May 13th.....lol (I hope....praying for no more new issues with Bit One).


----------



## ErinH

have you even used a dsp6 yet? I'm assuming no... and if so, then why did you bother buying them if you were just going to use the bit one again?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> have you even used a dsp6 yet? I'm assuming no... and if so, then why did you bother buying them if you were just going to use the bit one again?


I purchased two and yes I have them both but I do not have the cables. I purchased them immediately after I made my YouTube videos, showing my Bit One issues. Fro my perspective, I was getting a lot of customer service and telephone time from Audision, Dealer ....etc. But everyone wanted me to go over and over and over all the different trouble shooting avenues, plus suggestions were being made for me to scrap paint off the units...you know the drill all too well.

I just felt like the light at the end of the tunnel for a REAL solution was not being presented to me. Do I immediately bought two DSP-6's and started ordering cables.

In the interim I demanded my money back. But I kept getting the "we (dealer and Audison) want to try a few more things. This went on for two weeks. Meanwhile my DSP-6s arrived. I have been waiting on cables for about 2 weeks with about one week to go. Those little bastards are hard to find. As stated above that has always been my problem with Zapco stuff....those persnickety cables. 

Then my dealer got back to me and told me about the new firmware, software and pcb. And frankly I caved in and decided to wait and try the Bit One one last time. I will still install the DSP6's even if just for a week or so for two reasons. (a) comparisons of the two and (b) I can install the DSP-6 in about 15 minutes since all the wiring is already done. The only real effort will be the 12 simbilink from HU(transmitters) to DSP.

If I install the Bit One and there are issues I will then have many options. One of which will be to rip out my enitre system and start over. LOL


----------



## ErinH

So, in other words, you got impatient and bought something else. 

No biggie. I did the same.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> So, in other words, you got impatient and bought something else.
> 
> No biggie. I did the same.


Yes. But at the time, I just thought I was getting a refund. I am still exicted to see what happens, even though I am over it....over a month now with no tunes in my ride.


----------



## Coheednme13

USC_Gamecock said:


> lol -- nah, I don't shoot roosters, I got my undergrad. degree from University of South Carolina and derived my username from that ...


I also got an undergrad from USC so nice to see another Alumni on here


----------



## Coheednme13

USC_Gamecock said:


> lol -- nah, I don't shoot roosters, I got my undergrad. degree from University of South Carolina and derived my username from that ...


browser issues therefore, the infamous double post


----------



## USC_Gamecock

So I got the software today -- and I also updated the firmware of the BitOne and DRC to version 1.5 -- it was seamless, no issues.

All I have to say is this thing is so much fun to play with. After a few hours of just playing with it -- muting channels, setting the time alignments/speaker distances/delays/slopes/algorithms -- I think I am finally really close to how I want this thing to sound. My biggest issue in my install was my sound stage appearing too low. My 6.5" mids are placed in the stock location in the G35 coupe, and the tweeters are mounted directly next to them.

To raise the stage, I had to play a little game. I basically set the distance of the tweeter a further out -- the mids are set at 0" and the tweeters at 8.2". This made the tweeters move up a little back. I also added a very slight delay to the mids. These two adjustments brought the stage up to where I think it should be. Is this a backwards method of adjusting the stage?

I then moved onto the EQ settings. I didn't set anything above 0dB. I basically moved frequencies down into the negative where required.

I am almost where I want to be -- I am just having a little issue fine tuning the tweeters. Seems like a slope adjustment may fix the problem, but I'm not sure. I decided to go back at it tomorrow. 

I will say that the detail in the music brought forward is amazing through the BitOne.


----------



## _Dejan_

I have one question.
Is someone try very quickly turn on and then off your HU?
I have little problem If I turn off HU when Bit1 booting. In this case when HU turn off Bit1 stay turned on... Last night this thing drain my battery, because Bit1 and amplifiers are stay turned on all night(until they are not turn off because battery has been empty)...
So example:
1.) Turn ON ignition(after few seconds HU start turning ON)
2.) When HU turn on turn ON remote and start booting Bit1
3.) Turn OFF ignition - HU turn OFF Bit1 booting and stay turned ON Voltage on input remote wire is 0V on output remote wire is 12V...

How can stay Bit1 powered ON if have on Remote IN 0V? If I wait until Bit1 complete boot and then turn OFF igniton Bit1 normaly turn OFF...


----------



## michaelsil1

_Dejan_ said:


> I have one question.
> Is someone try very quickly turn on and then off your HU?
> I have little problem If I turn off HU when Bit1 booting. In this case when HU turn off Bit1 stay turned on... Last night this thing drain my battery, because Bit1 and amplifiers are stay turned on all night(until they are not turn off because battery has been empty)...
> So example:
> 1.) Turn ON ignition(after few seconds HU start turning ON)
> 2.) When HU turn on turn ON remote and start booting Bit1
> 3.) Turn OFF ignition - HU turn OFF Bit1 booting and stay turned ON Voltage on input remote wire is 0V on output remote wire is 12V...
> 
> How can stay Bit1 powered ON if have on Remote IN 0V? If I wait until Bit1 complete boot and then turn OFF igniton Bit1 normaly turn OFF...


You should be able to turn the Bit One off manually with the DRC by pushing and holding the knob.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> You should be able to turn the Bit One off manually with the DRC by pushing and holding the knob.


I know for that option but this is not solution. How can I explain this to my 70 year old grandpa when he moving my car?


----------



## braves6117

I understand what you mean Dejan.

I removed my ground battery terminal for car work, and when I put the ground terminal back, my head unit "saw" the current, cycled, and the bit one turned and stayed on with the head unit off (Remote out at 0v both at head unit and bitone). Not a good thing.

I went in my car to grab my keys and saw it was on. I had to manually turn it off.


----------



## Technic

I'm also waiting for a revised bit one as the replacement of my original unit sent back a couple of weeks ago with DRC and bass problems. I just hope that the mObridge MOST>Toslink preamp converter will be also available as well by the time this revised bit one is released, as I don't want to go again thru the OEM amp high level outputs connection method with this unit... :worried:


----------



## michaelsil1

I'm getting a replacement unit today; the noise is getting worse.


----------



## flomofo

I hope to start hearing more positive reveiws I might be picking one up tommorow to resolve an alternator whine problem being generated by my disappointing re-q5.


----------



## michaelsil1

flomofo said:


> I hope to start hearing more positive reviews I might be picking one up tommorow to resolve an alternator whine problem being generated by my disappointing re-q5.


My replacement unit is behaving quite well. 

It turns out that I had a Pre Production Model.


----------



## minibox

Heard some of these this afternoon at Acoustic Images in NC 
Davide Anzalone - Milan, Italy - Thesis Line
One word- AMAZING
Used with the Bit One. Owner said that audison attributed some of its initial problems with the paint they used?? They overcame this buy scraping some of the paint off around the RCAs? Dunno, didn't ask for many details. I was distracted by the thesis line speakers and the most accurate sound reproduction I have ever heard.


----------



## USC_Gamecock

So I finally got the BitOne tuned in, and it just amazes me. I put in my all time favorite test CD -- Metallica S&M album, Disc One, Track 5 today -- and it just blew me away!!!

I got wayyyyyy lost in the EQ settings for a little while. So I just reset them all to flat, and I played with T/A and crossover settings. I got the staging where it sounded great to me, then I set the EQ's again, except this time -- I barely had to change any EQ settings.

I attached my .bit file to this message if any of you are curious about my settings. I had to upload it as 'final.pdf' just rename this file to 'final.bit' and you should be able to open it with the BitOne software. Memory A is the final version of my tuning efforts and what I use for all music.

Maybe the settings may seem very weird -- but it took me hours and hours of isolating channels and tuning this thing to get it where I like it.

Comments/criticisms are more than welcome on my settings!!!


----------



## thehatedguy

In Bryan's Vette?



minibox said:


> Heard some of these this afternoon at Acoustic Images in NC
> Davide Anzalone - Milan, Italy - Thesis Line
> One word- AMAZING
> Used with the Bit One. Owner said that audison attributed some of its initial problems with the paint they used?? They overcame this buy scraping some of the paint off around the RCAs? Dunno, didn't ask for many details. I was distracted by the thesis line speakers and the most accurate sound reproduction I have ever heard.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

michaelsil1 said:


> My replacement unit is behaving quite well.
> 
> It turns out that I had a Pre Production Model.


What exactly is a "Pre-Production Unit"? Now I have heard it all...LOL


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> What exactly is a "Pre-Production Unit"? Now I have heard it all...LOL


I don't know exactly, but that's what Audison told me.

I do know that the one I have now behaves like a champ.


----------



## USC_Gamecock

USC_Gamecock said:


> So I finally got the BitOne tuned in, and it just amazes me. I put in my all time favorite test CD -- Metallica S&M album, Disc One, Track 5 today -- and it just blew me away!!!
> 
> I got wayyyyyy lost in the EQ settings for a little while. So I just reset them all to flat, and I played with T/A and crossover settings. I got the staging where it sounded great to me, then I set the EQ's again, except this time -- I barely had to change any EQ settings.
> 
> I attached my .bit file to this message if any of you are curious about my settings. I had to upload it as 'final.pdf' just rename this file to 'final.bit' and you should be able to open it with the BitOne software. Memory A is the final version of my tuning efforts and what I use for all music.
> 
> Maybe the settings may seem very weird -- but it took me hours and hours of isolating channels and tuning this thing to get it where I like it.
> 
> Comments/criticisms are more than welcome on my settings!!!


I would like to make one disclaimer about the setup I uploaded -- I wouldn't try and "test" on any system (and I'm sure most everyone here knows that). My xover settings are speaker specific. For example, the resonant frequency (fs) for my MLK165 tweeters is 920Hz, which is fairly low compared to most tweeters (the Dynaudio MD102 tweeter is 1300Hz fs). So this would be a good way to blow a tweeter -- running my setup on speakers that aren't rated for it, even if I am using a very steep slope. Just an FYI -- I am no expert, just learning these things as I go.


----------



## flomofo

Just read about 100 pages here and elswhere on this thing since it was not even on my radar till a few hours ago and I might be spending a ton of money on this thing, well actually this morning now.

It feels like I just walked through a technical version of general hospital with relationships starting, breaking and nice hugs to repair them amongst all the techy talk...a tantalizing read I must say.


----------



## minibox

thehatedguy said:


> In Bryan's Vette?


yep, in the Z06. That car is a driver's and audiophile's dream. I can't wait until they get their showroom set up. Lots of goodies to listen to.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

flomofo said:


> Just read about 100 pages here and elswhere on this thing since it was not even on my radar till a few hours ago and I might be spending a ton of money on this thing, well actually this morning now.
> 
> It feels like I just walked through a technical version of general hospital with relationships starting, breaking and nice hugs to repair them amongst all the techy talk...a tantalizing read I must say.


We all have our moods and personalities. Its all good....even if we all throw the book at each other occasionally.


----------



## flomofo

The local shop in the city where my girlfriend lives has a demo car being built and the guy there seems to be a real audiophile, I think he mentioned to electro that they should probably get involved with online forums as well.

Wondering how the bitone will work in my car now along with a vmod and a bluetooth add-on and factory hu screen. 

I just learned that the bluetooth add-on can be sent through the bitone as well so that you can eq it as well and focus in on the 1k to 3k range of the normal human voice and get clean sound when using your bouetooth too! lol


----------



## thehatedguy

Huh, I've heard differently about how the car sounds.

I doubt the showroom will ever get finished. The only person they have installing now is Mark. Mark is a badass, but he can't do it all himself.


----------



## cvjoint

As a potential buyer of this unit I will try to wait it out until all the issues are fixed. For some of you guys that found problems with your units can you summarize a bit? I read lots and lots of pages but this thing is endless. So far I've been able to track down a new PCB release mid May but what are the issues trying to get fixed? I found two going back a few pages:

Floor noise
Pop

The rest?

Nice to know the dealer is in Irvine ha ha, I would be minutes away getting a replacement. Trying to retire my H701, it's done well.


----------



## ErinH

alt whine due to overspray on the chassis
digital beeping when DRC is connected.
some folks have popping (probably just wired the remote out/in wrong)

New edition should be out in a few weeks or so. Bugs are reportedly solved with this.


----------



## thbugman

I haven't even taken mine out of the box yet! Wife is pregnant and deciding if i should just sell it or not! lol errrrrrrrr


----------



## Austin

hey i just heard about this bit one deal and im planning on getting one but im gonna wait till the mid may release thing. what is the website to get these from because i found a few websites but it wasnt on there...


----------



## ErinH

ask audison who your local dealer is. they are no websites that sell them because Audison doesn't authorize online sales.


----------



## monkeyboy

bikinpunk said:


> alt whine due to overspray on the chassis
> digital beeping when DRC is connected.
> some folks have popping (probably just wired the remote out/in wrong)
> 
> New edition should be out in a few weeks or so. Bugs are reportedly solved with this.


Mine has a turn off pop, and the remote wire is not installed wrong.


----------



## cvjoint

bikinpunk said:


> alt whine due to overspray on the chassis
> digital beeping when DRC is connected.
> some folks have popping (probably just wired the remote out/in wrong)
> 
> New edition should be out in a few weeks or so. Bugs are reportedly solved with this.


thanks Bikinpunk, u seem to be quite the expert on this unit.


----------



## Ianaconi

Guys I am thinking on getting an ALPINE 7990J to use with the BITONE.

It has special coaxial out.

Anyone know if it would work with the BITONE?


----------



## Ianaconi

My other option is a Mcintosh MX5000.

It also has coaxial out, but I am sure it is regular.

What do you guys think of a MX5000 + BitOne?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Just got as call.....

My Bit One is schedule to be in my hand THIS Friday!!

WOOHOOOO


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome.

Anyone have the SERVICE MANUAL for the BITONE?


----------



## ErinH

you lucky SOB...



I think I'm still hearing middle of this month. I actually asked them if it's going to be that late, to hold off on sending mine because I’ll be out of town from 15th-30th. But, hopefully it’ll come before then. 

LMK what you find with yours. I’m actually considering putting mine back in.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> you lucky SOB...
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm still hearing middle of this month. I actually asked them if it's going to be that late, to hold off on sending mine because I’ll be out of town from 15th-30th. But, hopefully it’ll come before then.
> 
> LMK what you find with yours. I’m actually considering putting mine back in.


According to Audison look for it at the end of the month.


----------



## ErinH

Actually, I take that back. In the email I got, they said hopefully they’d have one to me by the end of next week (being this week, now). So, hopefully I’ll get a call soon, too. :/


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> Actually, I take that back. In the email I got, they said hopefully they’d have one to me by the end of next week (being this week, now). So, hopefully I’ll get a call soon, too. :/


The one with the new PCB?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Micheal I know you were asking Erin, but yes, the unit scheduled to be shipped today from Irvine, California and arrive Friday at my addy is the Bit One with the new PCB.


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> Micheal I know you were asking Erin, but yes, the unit scheduled to be shipped today from Irvine, California and arrive Friday at my addy is the Bit One with the new PCB.


I guess they came in sooner than expected.


----------



## veloze

michaelsil1 said:


> I guess they came in sooner than expected.


I got this from a reliable source...he indicated that any new BitOne purchases or warranty returns would have the new PCB board & the most updated firmware. (I supposed new shipments from Italy are here now).

I guess, I'll stop bitting my nails for now and see if the updated processor has no issues to worry about. Hopefully, I'll pull the trigger on the BitOne processor soon and retire the H701. 

BTW, has anyone tried the W505 with the BitOne yet?


----------



## ErinH

^ I did. why do you ask?


----------



## veloze

bikinpunk said:


> ^ I did. why do you ask?


Erin,

Since Audison is getting a new shipment of the update processor & supposedly worked the kinks out of it, I've been pondering the idea of getting the BitOne processor to replace the H701 & still keep the W505. Can you tell any pros & cons with that combo?

Remember when you had the P1 nav with the W505, I mentioned to you to get the 900E module to connect it to the nav input on the H701 to hear the nav prompts over the speakers. 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but will the 900e will still work with the BitOne or not? I'm wondering if I have to connect the module to other input or aux on the BitOne?

Other than the issues you had with your lemon BitOne, can you tell me exactly what did you notice when you hook the W505 to the BitOne? Did it knock your socks off?  

Humn, I'm still waiting from the Doc to post the review on the W505/BitOne combo.


----------



## ErinH

I never bought the P1 nav... 

See if this helps you at all:


bikinpunk said:


> Do you want to use two separate volume controls?
> 
> That's my only gripe about using a digital source with any processor that's not alpine hu+alpine processor. With alpine h/u+processor, you have digitial volume control at the headunit due to the ai-net.
> 
> IMO, it's not worth the trouble of having to use two separate controls for volume and source selection (you'll have to switch from 'master' to 'digital' sources). Either run alpine all the way, or run analog if you want to avoid that. You may be fine with having to use the two different controls, but I know I wasn't and because of that, the only way I'll be running digital again is if I'm using alpine combos.


----------



## ErinH

mine's on the way back to me as of today. got a tracking #.

Audison also took care of my fried tweeters problem, too, by sending me a set of their ml280 tweeters. So, they are definately doing their part to remedy the situation for me. 

Too bad I can't run it until I get back from vacation... even if I decide to keep it.


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Micheal I know you were asking Erin, but yes, *the unit scheduled to be shipped today from Irvine, California and arrive Friday *at my addy is the Bit One with the new PCB.


x2


----------



## hernanrod

ARCuhTEK said:


> Micheal I know you were asking Erin, but yes, the unit scheduled to be shipped today from Irvine, California and arrive Friday at my addy is the Bit One with the new PCB.


cool!

please let us know if new pcb works fine!

thanks


----------



## quality_sound

hernanrod said:


> cool!
> 
> please let us know if new pcb works fine!
> 
> thanks


It does.


----------



## xcoldricex

sorry this is a bit OT - but who should i contact to get an audison amp serviced? thought there might be a faster way than through the international website... thanks in advance


----------



## monkeyboy

Hey Buzz, what channel were you having problems with on your Bit One?

Curious.


----------



## Insane01VWPassat

quality_sound said:


> It does.


Paul Since nobody wants to listen to you..... maybe this will help since it appears the new ones are on the way I can post this without stirring up ot much ****....


Gentlemen.... The problems are all fixed...... My proof to this claim vvvvv











I tested this unit about 2 1/2 weeks ago and it has ZERO noises. (yes its a proto... so dont get your panties in a uproar thinking the shipment was here 3 weeks ago becuase it wasnt).. ZERO issues, ZERO turn on and off pops, No Digital Noise from the DRC, ZERO noise floor, Noticable differene in quality between optical and analog inputs, and no issues with random turning on or off..... Also the turn output has a much higher current capacity now to handle a heavy load.. like for using cheap relays etc.... and yes there is physical differences on the board and no im not going to be the one to post them out of respect to audison.... This unit I can say has a digital decoupler built into the circuit... There is several changes to the board... I counted in total 16... and there looks to even be a change in some parts that specifically effect the output of the unit (SQ Based results) for the better... And no the case does not come off exactly the same... so you "mr importants" that feel the need to take it apart and post for the world to see... I suggest not thinking its the same.... becuase it isnt... do it wrong... you will mess things up...

In a nutshell ..... if you still have problems with the new units look elsewhere... becuase i have had this unit in 2 different vehicles, and tested it up and down after hours on the bench nad in both cars under a ton of diffferent condition and there has yet to be a single issue with it... In other word... hook it up.... use your RTA, O0Scope, and meter correctly.. set it up per the instructions and standard "correct installation practices" for wiring and tuning and enjoy this very very nice piece of technology... If you still got problems then you are probally are the exact reason why Audison recommends "Letting a professional install your Bitone" Just my $.02 althought it seems to only be worth $.0000002 these days...


----------



## quality_sound

I helped him install it and can verify that everything he said is 100% true. 

*patiently waiting for mine to get here*


----------



## Buzzman

monkeyboy said:


> Hey Buzz, what channel were you having problems with on your Bit One?
> 
> Curious.


With Bit One Numero Uno, It was channel 4 (right mid), then with Numero Dos, it was channel 5 (left midbass). The current unit has been flawless thus far.


----------



## stereojnky

I would like to take time out to personally thank all of you early adopters for "testing" 

these out,so that when I get mine I will have zero issues!


----------



## ErinH

Mine's out for delivery. I hope my wife is freakin' home to sign for it!


----------



## stereojnky

bikinpunk said:


> Mine's out for delivery. I hope my wife is freakin' home to sign for it!


I'll sign for it!


----------



## denali804

Bitone.1 new pcb version has been delivered. Yippie. Erin, No need to worry they didn't send them out with signature requirement if delivered to a house. I called fedex yesterday to verify.


----------



## braves6117

Audible difference between analog and digi eh....


Sweeeeet.


----------



## t3sn4f2

braves6117 said:


> *Audible difference between analog and digi* eh....
> 
> 
> Sweeeeet.


Don't know what to think about that actually........I would expect to be indistinguishable excellent.


----------



## michaelsil1

t3sn4f2 said:


> Don't know what to think about that actually........I would expect to be indistinguishable excellent.


I don't have the new unit, but I can hear a difference (on the top end) between the Master and the Optical Setting.


----------



## t3sn4f2

michaelsil1 said:


> I don't have the new unit, but I can hear a difference (on the top end) between the Master and the Optical Setting.


I guess there could be a difference but they would be more introduced by the analog source and analog signal run then from the analog inputs of the bit one.


----------



## michaelsil1

t3sn4f2 said:


> I guess there could be a difference but they would be more introduced by the analog source and analog signal run then from the analog inputs of the bit one.


The Master setting is Analog and the Optical is Digital; the Digital setting is where you can definitely hear an improvement in the Top end.


----------



## braves6117

t3sn4f2 said:


> I guess there could be a difference but they would be more introduced by the analog source and analog signal run then from the analog inputs of the bit one.


Thats what I was thinking too.

I guess we'll soon see when I switch BitOnes and go from an anolog input to digital


----------



## monkeyboy

Buzzman said:


> With Bit One Numero Uno, It was channel 4 (right mid), then with Numero Dos, it was channel 5 (left midbass). The current unit has been flawless thus far.


Very interesting... Thanks.

I am getting a RA number for mine now. I installed my new amps this weekend and went active. Since the reinstall CH 4 has been intermittant on mine.

I am confident they have it worked out, but I was wondering if I was having problems with the same output channel as you, and it seems to be the case.


----------



## Technic

New bit one.1 received... good news and really bad news. Talking to Larry right now.


----------



## ErinH

^wtf? really bad news???

pm is fine...



I got my bit one.1 in today, too. Also got the hertz signature ml 280 tweeters. These are klippel tested to be *near* perfect match before they go out the door.


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> New bit one.1 received... good news and really bad news. Talking to Larry right now.


The suspense is killing me.


----------



## denali804

Bitone.1 installed and all that I can say is WOW.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> ^wtf? really bad news???
> 
> pm is fine...
> 
> 
> 
> I got my bit one.1 in today, too. Also got the hertz signature ml 280 tweeters. These are klippel tested to be *near* perfect match before they go out the door.


Damn, did those new Tweets come in that silver case?


----------



## t3sn4f2

michaelsil1 said:


> Damn, did those new Tweets come in that silver case?


They even came handcuffed to the UPS guys wrist.


----------



## ric

is there a way for us to determine the new batches? diff. start in the serial maybe or some code, sticker etc.?


----------



## michaelsil1

t3sn4f2 said:


> They even came handcuffed to the UPS guys wrist.


Double Damn! 

Please let us know how they sound compared to the ones that blew.


----------



## Technic

I'm still waiting for Larry's investigation on my problem, but in a nutshell:

Good news:
- no problems as with my first bit one in getting the full signal summing at setup, no need for any tricks or adjustments.

Really bad news:
- overall sound is muffled/choked no matter how many times I run set up, no matter the input volume level.
- have to max out the gain of the woofers amplifier to have some decent volume level of nasty, flat, "plop" bass. Anything less than that and level of bass is simply weak. Never in my 20 years of aftermarket car audio installation I have had to max out any amplifier gain.
- hiss... and *loud* turn off pop. This is the one issue that simply got me boiling. These two noises are supposed to be fixed with this release, and to make matters worse I did not have any of those noise issues with my first bit one.

This new bit one is connected *exactly* as in my first bit one. Absolutely nothing have changed other than the bit one.

I went to an authorized Audison dealer right after consulting with Larry just to make sure that I'm not doing anything wrong and they could not tell me what is the problem, but they admit that there is an issue with this bit one, especially the turn off pop.

My guess is that firmware 1.5 did some changes that in addition to the new hardware is making the bit one extremely sensitive now to the high output levels of my OEM amp. That could explain how the update messed up my working first bit one and now it is making the new bit one worst. There was another M3 in that Audison dealer with a bit one working 100%... but this M3 has the standard, 180W amplifier. In the worst case it is putting out some 5V-7V max to the high level inputs of the bit one, so it is fine. Mine is the 825W amplifier, some 37V peak. The sucker keeps being saturated and now it is simply clipping and choking...


----------



## IBcivic

happy to see that audison sent you some replacement tweets. i am looking forward to seeing your comments and/or review


----------



## Megalomaniac

my TBIs came in a tiny cardboard box 

Can I have the case!


----------



## ErinH

michaelsil1 said:


> Damn, did those new Tweets come in that silver case?


Yes. Kinda crazy. These are a matched pair. Believe they're the top of the line Hertz tweeters. Dang gave them great reviews and compared them to the scan d2904 which I had. I look forward to getting them in, but that probably won't be until mid-June.


----------



## ErinH

ric said:


> is there a way for us to determine the new batches? diff. start in the serial maybe or some code, sticker etc.?


larry and I both posted pics of the serial #. Note that it says "Bit One*.1*". that's probably how you're going to be able to tell the difference.

I don't know if these are the new in production units. I believe those of us who received ours today were part of a group who got theirs on warranty. I don't know this to be true at all... but just from what I was told, I inferred that these particular units are the first batch to make it out and is probably of a smaller batch. Again, I'm just speculating


----------



## Megalomaniac

Do you have your BIt.1 file saved form the previous one? Well I guess it doesnt matter, since then youve installed new amps, subs, and tweeters now :/


----------



## ErinH

Yea, I still have that settings file, but I don't believe you can still use it. I know when the firmware upgrades came out, they were saying to not use the same settings file because of compatibility issues.

I think the bit one may just find it's way back into my car. But, I won't be doing that until the house is finished anyway, so it really doesn't matter.


----------



## starboy869

Looks like a bit one is more miss than hit. 

Imo alpine h900 have come down in price and you don't need a display to use them btw.


----------



## ErinH

Alpine h900 = not supported. good luck getting ANY help with that. Order parts from Japan, and have fun waiting MONTHS. Ask me how I know. 

Yes, I know you have 'contacts', but you're talking about a product that is not supported any longer vs. something that is. Bottom line, I'd rather take a chance on $700 than $1200+ (and that's even used prices).


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> Yea, I still have that settings file, but I don't believe you can still use it. I know when the firmware upgrades came out, they were saying to not use the same settings file because of compatibility issues.
> 
> I think the bit one may just find it's way back into my car. But, I won't be doing that until the house is finished anyway, so it really doesn't matter.


Yes, Bit One.1 is the designation for the new generation units with the updated PCB. And, you cannot use your previously saved setting files. You *have *to wipe all of your previously used Bit One info. from your computer, and install everything new with the cd provided with the new unit.


----------



## quality_sound

Buzzman said:


> Yes, Bit One.1 is the designation for the new generation units with the updated PCB. And, you cannot use your previously saved setting files. You *have *to wipe all of your previously used Bit One info. from your computer, and install everything new with the cd provided with the new unit.


I'll ask him again but I could swear Fred reused his old settings.


----------



## Buzzman

quality_sound said:


> I'll ask him again but I could swear Fred reused his old settings.


Larry Penn told me in no uncertain terms not to reuse the previously saved software (even though it was 1.5) or settings, and to wipe my laptop of everything Bit One on it before installing the new unit. So, that's what I did. I wasn't about to try and find out what would happen if I didn't follow his advice.


----------



## _Dejan_

Today Im test my BitOne again and find next things:
-White noise when use optical input(with connected or disconnected source)
-Digital beeping when use master input
-No engine noise

So I will wait for more test's of new unit BITONE.1 and then replace it or return it...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Okay I am probably the second most dissatisfied Bit One customer (by evidence of the You Tube videos I posted months ago) on this forum.

I received my Bit One late yesterday afternoon and installed it today and here is the verdict:





















::::::::::::drum roll please:::::::::::::::













This MOFO is downright perfect!!!!!! HEEEEEEEEEHAW! Audison has totally redeemed itself....whew! I relieved!


Now its time to get on with the tweak and tune I have been wanting to do since March/April. I spent several hours today working on it and to me it sounds fabulous. But I have not spent any time with RTA or other tunign equipment...just my POS ears.

If you were thinking about getting a Bit One...I would support you in your quest NOW!


----------



## AVIDEDTR

ARCuhTEK said:


> Okay I am probably the second most dissatisfied Bit One customer (by evidence of the You Tube videos I posted months ago) on this forum.
> 
> I received my Bit One late yesterday afternoon and installed it today and here is the verdict:
> 
> ::::::::::::drum roll please:::::::::::::::
> 
> This MOFO is downright perfect!!!!!! HEEEEEEEEEHAW! Audison has totally redeemed itself....whew! I relieved!
> 
> 
> Now its time to get on with the tweak and tune I have been wanting to do since March/April. I spent several hours today working on it and to me it sounds fabulous. But I have not spent any time with RTA or other tunign equipment...just my POS ears.
> 
> If you were thinking about getting a Bit One...I would support you in your quest NOW!


can anyone confirm if there may or may not be USB connectivity problem if I use a Mac Book Pro with Windows XP loaded in Boot camp?

Also would their be any chance of noise if I run a USB cable a along with my Optical and RCA's together?

Thanks and Hooray to a successful BIt ONE


----------



## muntos

_Dejan_ said:


> Today Im test my BitOne again and find next things:
> -White noise when use optical input(with connected or disconnected source)
> -Digital beeping when use master input
> -No engine noise
> 
> So I will wait for more test's of new unit BITONE.1 and then replace it or return it...


But how did you miss this first time when you said there is no noise on optical input ?Don't get it...


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> But how did you miss this first time when you said there is no noise on optical input ?Don't get it...


I think Im miss this white noise because first time Im test it with car turned on and car is not silent one 
Today Im receive response from Elettromedia support that they are send to my local dealer a device called DRC Decoupler which eliminates my
issue... We will se if will realy help fix me noise on optical input or will only fix Master digital beeping...

I will post more details when I receive it and test it...


----------



## muntos

Hmm...you're the first one with this DRC Decoupler, in my case they told me that will replace the unit, just to wait...And I'm waiting...


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> Hmm...you're the first one with this DRC Decoupler, in my case they told me that will replace the unit, just to wait...And I'm waiting...


I will see if this will fix my problems... I will test my bitone in next days without connected DRC...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I have a question about a potential DRC issue. I think Braves mentioned this above.

When I turn my vehicle off, the DRC does not turn off unless I manually turn it off. I exited my truck yesterday and mowed my yard. One hour later I get in the truck an the DRC (and all three of my amps) are still powered on.

I thought this had something to do with how you turn the DRC on initially, but I have tried it a couple of ways with no luck. The DRC always turns on automatically, but it seems I always have to turn if off manually.

Anyone else?


----------



## ErinH

not sure, but are you certain that the remote turn-on to the unit is setup so that the bitone powers on correctly?

You might want to call the guys at Audison.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> not sure, but are you certain that the remote turn-on to the unit is setup so that the bitone powers on correctly?
> 
> You might want to call the guys at Audison.


Well since this particular install was a plug n play (meaning I have not changed the wiring from my first or second units) it should work in the same manner that the previous Bit Ones did. They turned off and on correctly.

The remote turn on should go from HU to Bit One then out to amps. That is how I have it wired. It turns on correctly...just not off.

I am sure its simple....and for anyone wanting to call foul (and say the unit still has issues.....) hold off. Other than this, she is a star player!

I will call Audison.


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> Well since this particular install was a plug n play (meaning I have not changed the wiring from my first or second units) it should work in the same manner that the previous Bit Ones did. They turned off and on correctly.
> 
> The remote turn on should go from HU to Bit One then out to amps. That is how I have it wired. It turns on correctly...just not off.
> 
> I am sure its simple....and for anyone wanting to call foul (and say the unit still has issues.....) hold off. Other than this, she is a star player!
> 
> I will call Audison.


How long did you wait between turn on and turn off? If time is lower than 10-30sec then you have same problem as I...
So if I turn HU off when BitOne is in booting state - DRC turn on and show version 1.5 then BitOne stay turned ON... If I wait until bitone is in normal state and then turn off HU then normaly turn off...


----------



## denali804

ARCuhTEK said:


> I have a question about a potential DRC issue. I think Braves mentioned this above.
> 
> When I turn my vehicle off, the DRC does not turn off unless I manually turn it off. I exited my truck yesterday and mowed my yard. One hour later I get in the truck an the DRC (and all three of my amps) are still powered on.
> 
> I thought this had something to do with how you turn the DRC on initially, but I have tried it a couple of ways with no luck. The DRC always turns on automatically, but it seems I always have to turn if off manually.
> 
> Anyone else?


Kevin, You might have tried this already but if not might be worth a try. The next time you have this issue unplug your power and ground molex connector, the remote molex, connector, and the cord that plugs the drc in. After that hook everything up and see if it might be a syncing issue. Good luck. My new one has been working like a champ.


----------



## Technic

After consulting with Larry, three different audio shops, and experimenting with line drivers, the solution to all my bit one.1 problems was the...

*AudioControl LC6i line converter. *

All the issues fixed, sound, pops, bass, clarity... all. 

This is the second time that an AudioControl device fixed a problem processor installation of mine, first it was a Matrix line driver in a 360.2 and now a LC6i.

My issue was the same since the beginning: my OEM amp is simply too powerful for the high level inputs max rating of the bit one. The bass signals have peaks of more than 30V at undistorted volume level using the setup CD. That was causing a permanent calibration of high sensitivity on those inputs, so the hiss was everywhere and the turn off pop was caused by the shut down of my OEM amp and the bit one picking up that voltage peak and sending it to the bass amp that had the gain at absolute maximum... there goes the POP. Now all my amps gains are at absolute minimum and the bass is really loud and tight. 

The new setup: the LC6i takes the front outputs of my OEM amp (mid-high) and sum the signal with the subs outputs. Then I adjust the individual input/output gains the LC6i to make them as equal as possible at summing so the bass level doesn't overwhelm the mid highs level. The bass level is so high that the gains are set at minimum and the mid high gains are set at maximum in the LC6i... and still I got the "Maximized" light flickering like crazy at mid high volume. That's the new signal that goes into the low level inputs of the bit one. 

Now the "trick" is to follow the special remark in the bit one user manual 1.4: because in fact this new "full" signal is heavily equalized by the OEM amp and not a "flat" signal, the calibration cannot be performed using the _low_ level inputs designation as Master inputs, the _high _level input designation still have to be used to enable the "de-EQ" feature.

Once all that is done the sound is just as good or better than my first bit one. Bass is everywhere, the mids have more punch... I don't know if this is because of the bit one or because of the summing of the LC6i as it is not clear if the bit one sums low level inputs or it does when the high level input calibration instead is used with low level inputs. 

What I do know now is that the sucker is back...

My recommendation to Larry was simple: the next revision of the bit one should be able to accept up to 40V inputs at the high level (as all the high level AudioControl devices), and that the calibration software be able to detect "high" input levels as an error. Right now it only detects if the inputs are low as an error, but not if the inputs are saturated. Looking at the clipping lights after calibration is not enough... I did not see any lights even flickering when I was having these high level inputs exceeding the max specifications. The bit one got into this saturated mode without anything showing in the calibration process due to it. Just bad sound...

So for anybody with OEM amps exceeding 100W per channel, either wait for another revision, get the LC6i or if the OEM amp is MOST/digital then wait for either the upcoming mObridge Toslink/RCA converter or the Rainbow MOST>RCA converter.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

_Dejan_ said:


> How long did you wait between turn on and turn off? If time is lower than 10-30sec then you have same problem as I...
> So if I turn HU off when BitOne is in booting state - DRC turn on and show version 1.5 then BitOne stay turned ON... If I wait until bitone is in normal state and then turn off HU then normaly turn off...


For example...tonight, I took my wife to dinner at a restaurant 30 mins from my house. The system was on the entire time. After a 90 minute dinner, I came out to the vehicle only to discover the DRC had been on since I left the house.

I rarely turn my system off and on within a few seconds.

I talked to Audison tonight. They have asked me to test out the DRC cable provided with the new Bit One (instead of using the one that came with my first unit, which was already installed and tucked away).

Easy enough....I will let everyone know how it turns out.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

denali804 said:


> Kevin, You might have tried this already but if not might be worth a try. The next time you have this issue unplug your power and ground molex connector, the remote molex, connector, and the cord that plugs the drc in. After that hook everything up and see if it might be a syncing issue. Good luck. My new one has been working like a champ.


Good idea....since the above post states I need to try the new (to me) DRC cable, I will do all of these things at the same time.

Thank you for the suggestion.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

New question for you Bit One.1 owners.....

I spoke with Audison today and interestingly enough, they asked me if I noticed a SQ difference between the "old" Bit One" and the new "Bit One.1"?

Well since I am technically deaf, and I had the digital beeping I told then I didn't feel qualified to answer the question, but I did ask why that they asked me. I was told that the new But One.1 was not revised merely for errors or problems but they also did things to improve the SQ. I was not told what exactly was changed.

So can anyone comment on this or compare the two in terms of SQ?


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> New question for you Bit One.1 owners.....
> 
> I spoke with Audison today and interestingly enough, they asked me if I noticed a SQ difference between the "old" Bit One" and the new "Bit One.1"?
> 
> Well since I am technically deaf, and I had the digital beeping I told then I didn't feel qualified to answer the question, but I did ask why that they asked me. I was told that the new But One.1 was not revised merely for errors or problems but they also did things to improve the SQ. I was not told what exactly was changed.
> 
> So can anyone comment on this or compare the two in terms of SQ?


If this is true where's my replacement unit?


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> New question for you Bit One.1 owners.....
> 
> I spoke with Audison today and interestingly enough, they asked me if I noticed a SQ difference between the "old" Bit One" and the new "Bit One.1"?
> 
> Well since I am technically deaf, and I had the digital beeping I told then I didn't feel qualified to answer the question, but I did ask why that they asked me. I was told that the new But One.1 was not revised merely for errors or problems but they also did things to improve the SQ. I was not told what exactly was changed.
> 
> So can anyone comment on this or compare the two in terms of SQ?


I noticed better overall definition and clarity, and stronger mid bass, but again I'm not sure it is because I'm using a better signal input, already summed or it is because the bit one is finally doing a much better job with this better signal...


----------



## nepl29

Thanks for the feedback Technic. got a quick question, were you charged any fees from the dealers that were helping you with your Bitone issues?


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Thanks for the feedback Technic. got a quick question, were you charged any fees from the dealers that were helping you with your Bitone issues?


No fees... actually, all three shops were very interested in finding out the cause of this problem as none of them have done this installation in this type of high powered OEM sound system. They were confused with the different types of BMW OEM systems available in the 3-Series and took them some time to understand that my system was different from the few that they have done in M3s.


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> No fees... actually, all three shops were very interested in finding out the cause of this problem as none of them have done this installation in this type of high powered OEM sound system. They were confused with the different types of BMW OEM systems available in the 3-Series and took them some time to understand that my system was different from the few that they have done in M3s.


Larry made me take mines to a local shop and i had to pay $110 and they didnt do anything.


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Larry made me take mines to a local shop and i had to pay $110 and they didnt do anything.


That's messed up...


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> That's messed up...


X2


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Larry made me take mines to a local shop and i had to pay $110 and they didnt do anything.


I forgot to ask, sorry... what is your issue?


----------



## nepl29

Technic said:


> I forgot to ask, sorry... what is your issue?


Pretty much the same issues you were having plus a lot more. I've stayed away from this thread because I'm still piss at a issue that I'm having with the MOST network. I'm actually at the BMW dealer right now. The bitone has already cost me over $450 In troubleshooting and shipping costs.


----------



## Technic

nepl29 said:


> Pretty much the same issues you were having plus a lot more. I've stayed away from this thread because I'm still piss at a issue that I'm having with the MOST network. I'm actually at the BMW dealer right now. *The bitone has already cost me over $400 *In troubleshooting costs.


Just wow...


----------



## Timoman

According to Audison-USA in CA, the beeping or "morse code" as others have called it is a result of an impedance problem when too many RCAs are connected, especially when running an active cross-over setup as I am to my front 2-ways. They have a temp fix by installing something in the current bit-one and will have a permanent hardware fix when the BitOne.one is released.


----------



## Megalomaniac

Timoman said:


> According to Audison-USA in CA, the beeping or "morse code" as others have called it is a result of an impedance problem when too many RCAs are connected, especially when running an active cross-over setup as I am to my front 2-ways. They have a temp fix by installing something in the current bit-one and will have a permanent hardware fix when the BitOne.one is released.


bitOne.one has been released


----------



## monkeyboy

Timoman said:


> According to Audison-USA in CA, the beeping or "morse code" as others have called it is a result of an impedance problem when too many RCAs are connected, especially when running an active cross-over setup as I am to my front 2-ways. They have a temp fix by installing something in the current bit-one and will have a permanent hardware fix when the BitOne.one is released.


I am not sure about that. When I first bought my Bit One my system was in a temporary state. I am getting ready to pull everything out and reinstall. I had the headunit running to the Bit One (1 set of RCA's in), and just a set of passive seperates connected to one two channel amp on the output (1 set of RCA's out). I still have the Morse Code.


----------



## Timoman

Yup, and I am "patiently"  waiting for one to replace my BitOne w/v. 1.4 software that has the morse code issue.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Timoman said:


> According to Audison-USA in CA, the beeping or "morse code" as others have called it is a result of an impedance problem when too many RCAs are connected, especially when running an active cross-over setup as I am to my front 2-ways. They have a temp fix by installing something in the current bit-one and will have a permanent hardware fix when the BitOne.one is released.


Well the fix is basically old news now for many of us here. However, the comment about the beeping being a result of having too many RCAs connected is new to me. It is also odd to me. One can only connect as many RCA's, as the Bit One is designed to accept. Why would this even be an issue.

Maybe I should not even go down this road since my Bit One.1 is basically perfect.....why dwell I suppose. Its just odd.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Hope to have my new Bit One.1 soon also, just awaiting my RA. Should have it in a couple of hours. I just can't wait to have the .1 unit so I can get my building coming full blown. My amps will be back from Zed today.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> Hope to have my new Bit One.1 soon also, just awaiting my RA. Should have it in a couple of hours. I just can't wait to have the .1 unit so I can get my building coming full blown. My amps will be back from Zed today.


Amen to that!!

Just remember....do NOT use any previously saved files from the previous Bit One. If you have not removed the Bit One software from your computer, you should go ahead and do that now. I bet you already knew all of the above anyway. Just sayin'


----------



## Timoman

Have anyone of you recent BitOne.one owners taken the lid off to see if they replaced the rather crappy op-amps with some decent ones like Burr-Brown, etc.? I just recently read here that the new 1.1 'appears' to sound better than the old unit.


----------



## michaelsil1

There are no new Bit One's in Los Angeles.


----------



## quality_sound

There was one in Rocklin until about 1230 when I dropped my car off at the shipping yard for transport to Germany. 

Yes, the Bit One.1 sounds better. 

And don't use the de-eq, even if you need it. You'll lose a **** ton of output.


----------



## Technic

quality_sound said:


> There was one in Rocklin until about 1230 when I dropped my car off at the shipping yard for transport to Germany.
> 
> Yes, the Bit One.1 sounds better.
> 
> And don't use the de-eq, even if you need it. *You'll lose a **** ton of output.*


Is that -with the De-EQ enabled at calibration- you have to lower considerably the output level of the bit one.1 because you are clipping or is it that at the same output level as the non-De-EQ calibration it sounds lower?


----------



## lsm

Drooling


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> If you have not removed the Bit One software from your computer, you should go ahead and do that now.


Why; did they change the Drivers?


----------



## quality_sound

Technic said:


> Is that -with the De-EQ enabled at calibration- you have to lower considerably the output level of the bit one.1 because you are clipping or is it that at the same output level as the non-De-EQ calibration it sounds lower?



The RNS-510 doesn't clip at full volume but simply using the de-EQ had me thinking the unit was bad because the output was so low. It sounded like the sub and midbasses weren't even on. I think part of the problem is the fact that even on the high level setting the 510 only does about a volt and a half. 

Since I knew I didn't need it anyway I re-ran setup and skipped the de-EQ portion and all was good in the neighborhood.


----------



## Technic

quality_sound said:


> The RNS-510 doesn't clip at full volume but simply using the de-EQ had me thinking the unit was bad because the output was so low. It sounded like the sub and midbasses weren't even on. I think part of the problem is the fact that even on the high level setting the 510 only does about a volt and a half.
> 
> Since I knew I didn't need it anyway I re-ran setup and skipped the de-EQ portion and all was good in the neighborhood.


I asked because in my case I have to use the De-EQ and after using the LC6i between my OEM amp and the bit one.1 I have to drastically reduce the output levels of the bit one.1 because of serious clipping at all the channels. 

It sounds great and loud, though...


----------



## quality_sound

That's because the LC6i has a line driver built in.  

You had issues with the Bit One accepting your high level inputs, right?


----------



## Technic

quality_sound said:


> That's because the LC6i has a line driver built in.
> 
> You had issues with the Bit One accepting your high level inputs, right?


Yes, and now I'm using the low level inputs because of that... the only issue that I used to have with the De-EQ and the first bit one was that it was canceling the signal summing at the high inputs, not the output levels. 

But it seems to me now that the high inputs of the bit one are kind of "fuzzy" depending of the input level. I thought that the whole purpose of the calibration was to compensate -up or down- the input levels from the HU.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> There are no new Bit One's in Los Angeles.


Really?


----------



## Buzzman

Timoman said:


> Have anyone of you recent BitOne.one owners taken the lid off to see if they replaced the rather crappy op-amps with some decent ones like Burr-Brown, etc.? I just recently read here that the new 1.1 'appears' to sound better than the old unit.


No, I have not taken the lid off and don't plan to. And, no they did not replace those "crappy" op amps. And, it sounds killer.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Why; did they change the Drivers?


No, they didn't change the drivers, but the thinking is why take a chance on infecting the new operating system with something from the previous system.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Really?


I was at Audison today, they didn't have any new ones.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> No, they didn't change the drivers, but the thinking is why take a chance on infecting the new operating system with something from the previous system.


If they didn't change the drivers then all you would need to do is start fresh, no need to uninstall.


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> If they didn't change the drivers then all you would need to do is start fresh, no need to uninstall.


You don't uninstall the drivers, just the previously saved software, firmware and settings.


----------



## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> You don't uninstall the drivers, just the previously saved software, firmware and settings.


Why!

If the Software and Firmware Version are the same.

I know that you wound have to run it as a new unit, but uninstalling the same software doesn't make since.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

michaelsil1 said:


> Why; did they change the Drivers?


Just per Audisons instructions. No trace of the previous software should be found on your computer prior to the installation of the new software.

Hey, I am a "by the book" man when it comes to getting this puppy right. It worked.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

michaelsil1 said:


> Why!
> 
> If the Software and Firmware Version are the same.
> 
> I know that you wound have to run it as a new unit, but uninstalling the same software doesn't make since.


Why ask why? It takes less time to uninstall the software that it will for me to write this post! It is an extremely small amount of code.

Beyond that, it is my understanding that it is NOT the same software and firmware for the Bit One.1. The DRC even has new software. Now the software, firmware and DRC are all on version 1.5

IF, for some reason, you already have the v1.5 then I suppose you would not need to do the uninstall. However.....if I were waiting on a new Bit One.1 to arrive....as soon as it arrived, my computer would be clean as a whistle.

For no other reason than to make absolutely sure you are following Audisons directions, even if it does not make sense from a software, driver, registry point of view.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Why ask why? It takes less time to uninstall the software that it will for me to write this post! It is an extremely small amount of code.
> 
> Beyond that, it is my understanding that it is NOT the same software and firmware for the Bit One.1. The DRC even has new software. Now the software, firmware and DRC are all on version 1.5
> 
> IF, for some reason, you already have the v1.5 then I suppose you would not need to do the uninstall. However.....if I were waiting on a new Bit One.1 to arrive....as soon as it arrived, my computer would be clean as a whistle.
> 
> For no other reason than to make absolutely sure you are following Audisons directions, even if it does not make sense from a software, driver, registry point of view.


X2, Amen to that bother.

I sent I whining unit back today. Hope to have my Bit One.1 soon. How long did it take for you to receive you new unit once they contacted you said that had them in stock?


----------



## michaelsil1

Here-I-Come said:


> X2, Amen to that bother.
> 
> I sent I whining unit back today. Hope to have my Bit One.1 soon. How long did it take for you to receive you new unit once they contacted you said that had them in stock?


No new stock in Florida either?


----------



## phantomtides

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but is there a URL to download the latest software/drivers/firmware, etc? (Yes, I searched.)


----------



## michaelsil1

phantomtides said:


> I'm sure this is a stupid question, but is there a URL to download the latest software/drivers/firmware, etc? (Yes, I searched.)


Audison :: Update

Click on Red Arrow

Login: bitone
Password: bitone


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Here-I-Come said:


> X2, Amen to that bother.
> 
> I sent I whining unit back today. Hope to have my Bit One.1 soon. How long did it take for you to receive you new unit once they contacted you said that had them in stock?


Once they called me and told me the unit was in their warehouse, it was about 5 days. It was two months after I sent my second unit in IIRC. But that delay was because the Bit One.1 did not exist at that time. Hopefully units will start trickling in at a faster pace.


----------



## CraigE

It sure is a fun toy! 
No problems at all here.


----------



## michaelsil1

CraigE said:


> It sure is a fun toy!
> No problems at all here.


Craig,

Did you get the rest of your Audison questions answered?


----------



## qcb7819

so far so good for me, no whine sound or whatsoever


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bruce horton said:


> Do anyone have something good to say about the bit1


I dont understand the question, considering that if you read this thread there are good things (excellent things actually) said about the Bit One.1. This is especially true in the last few weeks since the new version has been released.

Sure, much negativity has been said about the original Bit One (from me too), but the Bit One.1 has arrived (and is still being distributed).

Why else do you think people are clamoring around asking where they can buy one, comments that there are none in this state, that state, this city, that city.

Makes me think you just tuned in and read just this one page of the 1,000+ entries.


----------



## CraigE

michaelsil1 said:


> Craig,
> 
> Did you get the rest of your Audison questions answered?


Yes Sir I did, and the Bit 1 really likes the new Lrx 3.1k


----------



## michaelsil1

CraigE said:


> Yes Sir I did, and the Bit 1 really likes the new Lrx 3.1k


Great!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bruce horton said:


> have anyone had problem with the bit1 blow TWEETER


I have only heard of one instance. But in that case, the cause of the tweeter issue was specifically related to the Bit One. It would be difficult to properly fault the signal processor for "blowing" any given speaker.

I will not fill in any details, but the person to whom this happened to might chime in about this issue.

Why do you think the Bit One would cause an issue with your tweeter? Or are you just curious and this has not actually happened to you?


----------



## IBcivic

BLEHHHH, THE BIT ONE IS JUNK!


----------



## IBcivic

^^^^KIDDING ,OF COURSEoke:


----------



## michaelsil1

stinky06 said:


> BLEHHHH, THE BIT ONE IS JUNK!





stinky06 said:


> ^^^^KIDDING ,OF COURSE


:jester:


----------



## AVIDEDTR

I like it so far for listening to it for 1 hour - no noise and it's an improvement from the H701 IMHO


----------



## Horsemanwill

length of the b1 is 225mm = 8.85in
height is 150mm = 5.90in

what's teh depth of the b1? i can't find it.


----------



## quality_sound

It's in the manual but it's less than 2". It's REALLY short.


----------



## Horsemanwill

i looked in the manual and i didn't see it no wher


----------



## AVIDEDTR

- Dimensions: (w)225 x (h)150 x (d)32.3mm


----------



## Horsemanwill

i'm lookin at the manual and still don't see it but much appreciated.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Horsemanwill said:


> i'm lookin at the manual and still don't see it but much appreciated.


Talk Audio - Audison Bit One


----------



## ARCuhTEK

ARCuhTEK said:


> If anyone wants dimensions (thread is so long I cannot remember if these have been posted).
> 
> 
> Width: 8 7/8"
> Depth: 6"
> Height: 1"
> 
> She is TINY!


My dimensions from page 13 on this thread. Note my comment about how LONG the thread was at page 13.....:laugh:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I wanted to report in on the result of my testing to resolve my one final problem with my Bit One.

Problem: DRC (and as a result, the Bit One.1 and all my amps) not powering off at all when car was shut down and HU off.

Solution: My fault. A fellow forum member came to my house yesterday and did a tweak and tune. Before he left he helped me troubleshoot the issue. I had a constant 12v power supply feeding into the MEMORY input on the Bit One. The Owners manual says "keyed". This was a simple misunderstanding on my part, because I thought that the concept was to have constant power, and the Bit One would only utilize this power for memory settings on the DRC. As it turns out, the DRC will remain on continuously if it sees "any" constant power source.

The unit operates flawlessly now.


I am still confused about it, however. If the proper wiring is to send keyed power to the the MEM input, then when the car is turned off, the MEM input loses power. What good does a memory function do, to retain settings, if its power source is sometimes on and sometimes off?

Does anyone else have their Bit One wired utilizing the MEM input? If so, can you tell me how you did it? I assume from an ACC switch at the key?

I just cut my wire and it fixed everything. So I am extremely happy the fix was easy and the Bit One.1 is maintaining its flawless status.


----------



## _Dejan_

Today Im receive packet 









Inside:

















I hope that it will fix my beeping & white noise on optical problem...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

_Dejan_ said:


>


Weird. I heard this was coming. Is there a black mat or something laying on the instructions in your photo?


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> Weird. I heard this was coming. Is there a black mat or something laying on the instructions in your photo?


This is black color(Printed instructions).


----------



## denali804

Kevin, what drc settings need memory wired up? U should only nEed 12v ground and ur remote in and out
I think settings should save


----------



## CraigE

Mine is connected with four wires;
1- 12v + constant
2 - Neg - (ground)
3- Remote In (from HU)
4- Remote Out (to amps)

It powers up when the door is opened, powers down 45 seconds after door is closed, and retains all mem. and previous settings (volumes, etc) from when it was powered down.
This works for me, since I have the system on whenever I'm in the car.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Well I've had a couple of days with the bit one so far and I've found it to be very very good. I do have some issues with it that were not there with the H701.

1) Master vs Optical - In optical mode my bitone my staging changes completely and everything sounds sharp and edgy just like it did with my H701. When I flip back to Master my center image is Awesome and I mean TIGHT. 

2) Also on Master I'm noticing more gritty crunching sounds out of both my HAT L1 and L3. This wasn't there with the H701 and my gain's have not been touched to cause this (still at zero). Music like Metallica's - Death Magnetic sounds awful to begin with. It's so apparent with rock music I can't tell if it's the bitone or if for so reason my 3's and 1's got damaged somehow (highly doubt it  )

3) Can anyone tell at what volume level does the W505 clips at?? I did the setup at vol.28 since I don't have access to a OS-scope till I get to work on Thursday.

Thanks for your input everyone!
Ju


----------



## ARCuhTEK

CraigE said:


> Mine is connected with four wires;
> 1- 12v + constant
> 2 - Neg - (ground)
> 3- Remote In (from HU)
> 4- Remote Out (to amps)


This is how mine is wired now.

I just wired the MEM wire (even though it is optional) because the owners manual says it saves settings. It does not say what settings. This is my first build, so I was just going by the book, especially since the Bit One is a new product. I was thinking it needed constant power. My HU unit needs constant power to retain its settings like radio station presets, etc.

Before installing it, and while reading the OM, I figured the saved settings would be the volume setting upon shut down and also which preset (A, B, C or D) you had selected during your most recent listening session.

So if my assumptions are not true, then can someone please explain what the MEM input is for whatsoever?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

If anyone knows what volume the Pioneer AVIC-D3 clips at, I woudl like to know as well. I have reset and reinstalled the Bit One.1 about 10 times now, all at different HU vol. levels. Max is 40. I have tried everything from 15 to 40. Right now it is set up at 40. I had a fellow DIYMA come tweak and tune the system yesterday. He noticed that the system was distorting even at low volume levels. 

I just am surprised that the set up volume on the HU is MAX! I just get this feeling, it should not be. He spent about 4 hours on the system and tuning and it sounds great but it sure does not feel like I am pushing 1100 watts (or should I say it does not feel like the system has 100 watts of potential power)

It being my first build, maybe I just dont know what proper expectations are.


----------



## _Dejan_

Now Im install my DRC decoupler and:
-It do not fix my white noise problem on optical input :S
-It do not fix my stay turned on problem

Im not test Master input yet(because I don't need it)...

I think I have right connected my bit one:
On power connector I have permanent +12V and GND
On remote input I have switched 12V
Remote out go to amplifiers(Now to DRC decoupler and then to amplifiers).

Stay turned on problem:
-Turn on ignition and 12V go into remote IN 
-After 7 sec. turned off ignition and after few second BitOne start turning on(Ignition is off - Remote IN = 0V), and BitOne stay turned on until I turn it off by button or again turn on ignition and turn it off...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

_Dejan_ said:


> Stay turned on problem:
> -Turn on ignition and 12V go into remote IN
> -After 7 sec. turned off ignition and after few second BitOne start turning on(Ignition is off - Remote IN = 0V), and BitOne stay turned on until I turn it off by button or again turn on ignition and turn it off...


It takes a moment for the DRC to initially power up. Why are you just turning your system on for a few seconds before turning it off again? When you leave it turned on for a typical amount of time (say...as if you are going for a drive)...does the DRC and the system properly power down?


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> It takes a moment for the DRC to initially power up. Why are you just turning your system on for a few seconds before turning it off again? When you leave it turned on for a typical amount of time (say...as if you are going for a drive)...does the DRC and the system properly power down?


I don't turn it on for few seconds  This do my grandfather when he would like move car and just turn ignition on for few seconds that he can unlock steering wheel and then he move it by hand  This thing is empty my car 2 times :S
If Ignition is turned on for min 15sec then it turn off normaly... So problem is only if you quick turn it on and off...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

_Dejan_ said:


> -After 7 sec. turned off ignition and after few second BitOne start turning on(Ignition is off - Remote IN = 0V), and BitOne stay turned on until I turn it off by button or again turn on ignition and turn it off...


Ohhh I thought you meant you turn the ignition on and after 7 seconds you turned it off.....

I see now.

Well as stated above, I had a similar problem with the Bit One staying on. Is there any chance your Bit One is seeing constant power ANYWHERE? I saw that you posted your wiring set up, so I am asking just to make sure.


----------



## CraigE

Kevin,
The Bit 1 is seeing constant power from the 12v + constant
There are a few things in the Bit 1 FAQ that may help.
I remember reading somewhere that if using remote in, the keyed and mem. keyed are not used.
It may have been this:

The DRC must be connected to the Bit One by means of the AC Link 1 (DRC) socket and not by means of the AC Link 2 (AMPS) 
socket. Furthermore the KEY MEM and KEY SWITCH ON OFF must not be used at the same time and not even with the function REMOTE IN


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> Ohhh I thought you meant you turn the ignition on and after 7 seconds you turned it off.....
> 
> I see now.
> 
> Well as stated above, I had a similar problem with the Bit One staying on. Is there any chance your Bit One is seeing constant power ANYWHERE? I saw that you posted your wiring set up, so I am asking just to make sure.


It see constant power only on power connector on + and - "pin". MEM and KEY SWITCH is not connected. On Master input, HI_LEVEL input, optical input do not receive any signal. Only thing what I do is +12V into remote in for example 7sec. and then move it off(DRC is turned off). and after few second send signal to amplifiers and start turning on DRC. Remote IN is disconnected.
I think I can fix this issue with one capacitor on remote IN...


----------



## michaelsil1

So you're hearing noise on Optical (Bit One 1) with no source playing? I have it with the Bit One S version.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> So you're hearing noise on Optical (Bit One 1) with no source playing? I have it with the Bit One S version.


Yes. But I have BitOne and not BitOne.1. I have white noise if I use digital input (no mather If I have connected source or. cable into bit one or disconnected). If I change source to Master then this noise disappear. I have on my Audison LRx4.1k gain set beetwen 1-2. If I higher gain(open it to 4 or 8) this white noise is a lot of higher...


----------



## michaelsil1

_Dejan_ said:


> Yes. But I have BitOne and not BitOne.1. I have white noise if I use digital input (no mather If I have connected source or. cable into bit one or disconnected). If I change source to Master then this noise disappear. I have on my Audison LRx4.1k gain set beetwen 1-2. If I higher gain(open it to 4 or 8) this white noise is a lot of higher...


I'm hoping that the Bit One 1 eliminates the white noise it's annoying!


----------



## matdotcom2000

AVIDEDTR said:


> Well I've had a couple of days with the bit one so far and I've found it to be very very good. I do have some issues with it that were not there with the H701.
> 
> 1) Master vs Optical - In optical mode my bitone my staging changes completely and everything sounds sharp and edgy just like it did with my H701. When I flip back to Master my center image is Awesome and I mean TIGHT.
> 
> 2) Also on Master I'm noticing more gritty crunching sounds out of both my HAT L1 and L3. This wasn't there with the H701 and my gain's have not been touched to cause this (still at zero). Music like Metallic Death Magnetic sounds awful to begin with. It's so apparent with rock music I can't tell if it the bitone or if for so reason my front stage got damaged somehow (highly doubt it )
> 
> 3) Can anyone tell at what volume level does the W505 clips at?? I did the setup at vol.28 since I don't have access to a OS-scope till I get to work on Thursday.
> 
> Thanks for your input everyone!
> Ju


If you are using the w505 whiuch sources are you choosing to go between master and digital? Also would you say the sound quality is better or the same as with the h701


----------



## AVIDEDTR

matdotcom2000 said:


> If you are using the w505 whiuch sources are you choosing to go between master and digital? Also would you say the sound quality is better or the same as with the h701


The CD/DVD player gives me both Optical and Master(RCA's Front/Rear/Sub(all connected)) With my Ipod only get Master. EQ is off on the iPOD and Volume is also set to 28.

So far I like the sound better then the H701. more natural and less edgy - Until I get my probs resolved I can't really give a solid review....so far I'm not disappointed just a tad annoyed with the grit.


----------



## data_mine

ARCuhTEK said:


> I wanted to report in on the result of my testing to resolve my one final problem with my Bit One.
> 
> Problem: DRC (and as a result, the Bit One.1 and all my amps) not powering off at all when car was shut down and HU off.
> 
> Solution: My fault. A fellow forum member came to my house yesterday and did a tweak and tune. Before he left he helped me troubleshoot the issue. I had a constant 12v power supply feeding into the MEMORY input on the Bit One. The Owners manual says "keyed". This was a simple misunderstanding on my part, because I thought that the concept was to have constant power, and the Bit One would only utilize this power for memory settings on the DRC. As it turns out, the DRC will remain on continuously if it sees "any" constant power source.
> 
> The unit operates flawlessly now.
> 
> 
> I am still confused about it, however. If the proper wiring is to send keyed power to the the MEM input, then when the car is turned off, the MEM input loses power. What good does a memory function do, to retain settings, if its power source is sometimes on and sometimes off?
> 
> Does anyone else have their Bit One wired utilizing the MEM input? If so, can you tell me how you did it? I assume from an ACC switch at the key?
> 
> I just cut my wire and it fixed everything. So I am extremely happy the fix was easy and the Bit One.1 is maintaining its flawless status.


As you've found out, the MEM input is only needed if you aren't using a trigger input from a HU.

MEM is used to determine if the bitone should be on or off depending on ACC power from the car. If it was on, when you last turned off the ACC, it'll turn on again next time, if not, it won't. etc.

IMHO the manual is poorly worded in this regard making a lot of people make this same mistake.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

data_mine said:


> IMHO the manual is poorly worded in this regard making a lot of people make this same mistake.


It is poorly written all the way around. I think some of this is attributed to the language barrier.


----------



## data_mine

ARCuhTEK said:


> It is poorly written all the way around. I think some of this is attributed to the language barrier.


True, but that was the only bit I was confused about.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

data_mine said:


> True, but that was the only bit I was confused about.


You mean you had no confusion about the start up screen for the software interface like the rest of us?


----------



## data_mine

ARCuhTEK said:


> You mean you had no confusion about the start up screen for the software interface like the rest of us?


lol, nah. My many years of IT experience told me to bash at the keyboard and mouse until it worked.


----------



## michaelsil1

data_mine said:


> lol, nah. My many years of IT experience told me to bash at the keyboard and mouse until it worked.


That's what I did. :laugh:


That's probably why it sounded soooo baaaad. :blush:


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> You mean you had no confusion about the start up screen for the software interface like the rest of us?


What confusion? I thought it was all very well laid out and easy to use/navigate.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Has any one encountered this?

Run the system normally in Optical > Shut down > Turn on and get 1's and 0's data noise until an Optical signal is visible by the bitone?

Doesn't do this on master and it never did this with my H701.

Hmm I see a firmware update in the near future


----------



## _Dejan_

AVIDEDTR said:


> Has any one encountered this?
> 
> Run the system normally in Optical > Shut down > Turn on and get 1's and 0's data noise until an Optical signal is visible by the bitone?
> 
> Doesn't do this on master and it never did this with my H701.
> 
> Hmm I see a firmware update in the near future


Cca. 1 week ago Im receive answer that they do not plan release new firmware update, because 1.5 is very stable firmware...


----------



## AVIDEDTR

_Dejan_ said:


> Cca. 1 week ago Im receive answer that they do not plan release new firmware update, because 1.5 is very stable firmware...


The stability of the firmware is great - I'll agree with you on that 100%! How would you recommend I explain this noise to a sound judge when he is testing for these problems? Also the pop/crakle sound when I change sources mid track at mid to high volume?

It's probably a remote turn on wiring issue. I bet since my remote is split and goes to everything and not the Bit One first.

:


----------



## quality_sound

AVIDEDTR said:


> Has any one encountered this?
> 
> Run the system normally in Optical > Shut down > Turn on and get 1's and 0's data noise until an Optical signal is visible by the bitone?
> 
> Doesn't do this on master and it never did this with my H701.
> 
> Hmm I see a firmware update in the near future


I know someone running 2 Bit One.1s optically and neither of his do this.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> What confusion? I thought it was all very well laid out and easy to use/navigate.


It was a joke...sort of. There have been a few posts around the internet about how people, when they first open the software (after installation) and the first screen pops up......they have no idea what to do at that point. There is nothing that tells you to click to enter...no next button...etc. You just are supposed to know the click the bit one on the screen.

I found it amusing, but some people have said they spent quite a bit of time staring at the screen.....with a deer in the headlights look.

Me personally, no issue, but I have found other areas of the OM to be confusing. Overall, I had no issues with the Bit One.1 except the MEM input.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

AVIDEDTR said:


> It's probably a remote turn on wiring issue. I bet since my remote is split and goes to everything and not the Bit One first.
> 
> :


Your remote wire should go to the Bit One first, then output from Bit One to other equipment.

By the way....are you running the Bit One or Bit One.1?


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> It was a joke...sort of. There have been a few posts around the internet about how people, when they first open the software (after installation) and the first screen pops up......they have no idea what to do at that point. There is nothing that tells you to click to enter...no next button...etc. You just are supposed to know the click the bit one on the screen.
> 
> I found it amusing, but some people have said they spent quite a bit of time staring at the screen.....with a deer in the headlights look.
> 
> Me personally, no issue, but I have found other areas of the OM to be confusing. Overall, I had no issues with the Bit One.1 except the MEM input.



Ahhh, I did the same thing when that screen popped up. And then I read where it said "double-click the Bit One to start" or something to that effect. 

I agree with you though, the Bit One.1 works really, really well.


----------



## quality_sound

bruce horton said:


> how do you know bit one from bit one.1?


The model number, duh... J/K.  Seriously though, the Bit One.1 is technically a different model and the unit and box say "Bit One.1" instead of "Bit One."


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bruce horton said:


> how do you know bit one from bit one.1?


To add to the above....the sticker on the box with the serial number, literally says "Bit One.1"


----------



## denali804

AVIDEDTR said:


> Has any one encountered this?
> 
> Run the system normally in Optical > Shut down > Turn on and get 1's and 0's data noise until an Optical signal is visible by the bitone?
> 
> Doesn't do this on master and it never did this with my H701.
> 
> Hmm I see a firmware update in the near future


When you say turn on after shutting off are you restarting whole system or just powering up using drc button. Also what gauge gnd wire are u running from bit one and what are u grounding to. Also go into setup and turnoff any unused inputs. Sorry for any spelling mistakes but I'm typing on blackberry storm and it guesses the words I'm typing


----------



## quality_sound

ARCuhTEK said:


> To add to the above....the sticker on the box with the serial number, literally says "Bit One.1"


I said that Kevin...


----------



## denali804

my bad


----------



## ARCuhTEK

quality_sound said:


> I said that Kevin...


I was more specific, identifying where on the box it can be found.....

1 for me!!!! Hey I cannot find the banana symbol.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

denali804 said:


> When you say turn on after shutting off are you restarting whole system or just powering up using drc button. Also what gauge gnd wire are u running from bit one and what are u grounding to. Also go into setup and turnoff any unused inputs. Sorry for any spelling mistakes but I'm typing on blackberry storm and it guesses the words I'm typing



On my drive to work I listened to my system in optical output like normal w/ no issues. Reduced the volume to half shut off my car and went inside. Left work - started my car and the data 0's and 1's noise started - then stop as soon as my Alpine 505 started playing. Shut the car off and waited for the bitone to power down. Started the car up again and the data 0's and 1's noise was there again. Switched to Master did the same on/off process and NO noise. 

Wire size is a 18 gauge on all wires to the bitone. The exact wires were used with my H701 previously.

My ground is direct to the Battery

Only input that are open are low level and Optical.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks

Julian


----------



## less

Ok, well I now have the means to pick up one of these buggers, so its time to do a little bit of research to see if it will truly meet my needs. I'll be scanning all the posts (there are soooo many) over the weekend trying to make my decision, but could someone please summarize how the bit one is doing since all of the initial issues? 

Also, if I plan on running my media player into the optical input for my primary listening, but will also have a more standard head unit (presumably) playing through the analog inputs, is it possible to switch between the two easily? I doubt I can find a h/u setup with a radio output or Ipod output that would be output in digital so I could just put an optical switch to change between the two.

I really hope the bugs are out of this now and that the sound quality is literally at the highest level, since I am actually quite pleased with the SQ from my DRZ9255. Swapping to the big one would give me more tuning capabilities, but I'd hope its d/a converter and overall output quality would be superior to the DRZ too. 

I'm not sure I'd want to go to the trouble of revamping my entire installation and finding a new cheaper head unit to play single cds and radio signals if the Bit One doesn't put out sound that is almost magically delicious =)

Any thoughts? Would you swap to the B1 over a nicely set up and already installed DRZ - if so, and assuming you didn't really NEED the extra tuning capabilities, why?

Thanks in advance for helping me make a good decision =)

Less


----------



## michaelsil1

less said:


> Ok, well I now have the means to pick up one of these buggers, so its time to do a little bit of research to see if it will truly meet my needs. I'll be scanning all the posts (there are soooo many) over the weekend trying to make my decision, but could someone please summarize how the bit one is doing since all of the initial issues?
> 
> Also, if I plan on running my media player into the optical input for my primary listening, but will also have a more standard head unit (presumably) playing through the analog inputs, is it possible to switch between the two easily? I doubt I can find a h/u setup with a radio output or Ipod output that would be output in digital so I could just put an optical switch to change between the two.
> 
> I really hope the bugs are out of this now and that the sound quality is literally at the highest level, since I am actually quite pleased with the SQ from my DRZ9255. Swapping to the big one would give me more tuning capabilities, but I'd hope its d/a converter and overall output quality would be superior to the DRZ too.
> 
> I'm not sure I'd want to go to the trouble of revamping my entire installation and finding a new cheaper head unit to play single cds and radio signals if the Bit One doesn't put out sound that is almost magically delicious =)
> 
> Any thoughts? Would you swap to the B1 over a nicely set up and already installed DRZ - if so, and assuming you didn't really NEED the extra tuning capabilities, why?
> 
> Thanks in advance for helping me make a good decision =)
> 
> Less


Switching between Analog (Master) and Digital (Optical) is done through the DRC (very easy).


I have the DRZ and was concerned about losing SQ, so far I'm pleased with the SQ of the Bit One and hopefully with the Bit One.1 I'll get rid of the rest of my complaints concerning the Optical output.


----------



## Buzzman

less said:


> Ok, well I now have the means to pick up one of these buggers, so its time to do a little bit of research to see if it will truly meet my needs. I'll be scanning all the posts (there are soooo many) over the weekend trying to make my decision, but could someone please summarize how the bit one is doing since all of the initial issues?
> 
> Also, if I plan on running my media player into the optical input for my primary listening, but will also have a more standard head unit (presumably) playing through the analog inputs, is it possible to switch between the two easily? I doubt I can find a h/u setup with a radio output or Ipod output that would be output in digital so I could just put an optical switch to change between the two.
> 
> I really hope the bugs are out of this now and that the sound quality is literally at the highest level, since I am actually quite pleased with the SQ from my DRZ9255. Swapping to the big one would give me more tuning capabilities, but I'd hope its d/a converter and overall output quality would be superior to the DRZ too.
> 
> I'm not sure I'd want to go to the trouble of revamping my entire installation and finding a new cheaper head unit to play single cds and radio signals if the Bit One doesn't put out sound that is almost magically delicious =)
> 
> Any thoughts? Would you swap to the B1 over a nicely set up and already installed DRZ - if so, and assuming you didn't really NEED the extra tuning capabilities, why?
> 
> Thanks in advance for helping me make a good decision =)
> 
> Less


Well, as far as the NEW Bit One is doing, you will find a number of comments already offered in this thread. Simply put, awesome. Regarding the SQ gain vs. a DRZ9255, see my review: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-most-worthwhile-addition-my-signal-path.html

I must also add that with the new Bit One.1, the sonic improvement using the Optical output is even greater than I noted in my review. The improvement is quite obvious now.


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome.

Can't wait to get my hands on one!

I will be using a coaxial input which is supposed to be better than toslink!


----------



## Oliver

Refers to an input socket on a device that connects to a coaxial cable. It often refers to early TV sets that accepted signals from an antenna or VCR only via a coaxial cable. Modern TVs have coax inputs plus inputs that use RCA phono and HDMI cables.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Are the Bit One.1's making their way out into the countryside now? I was thinking I would see more comments on installs. Here is a pic of my frequency response with just one "official" tuning session. Not too bad...


----------



## quality_sound

I only had mine in my car for 3 days before I had to put it in a container for shipment to Germany. When I get the car and get more time to play with it I'll update my thread.


----------



## michaelsil1

quality_sound said:


> I only had mine in my car for 3 days before I had to put it in a container for shipment to Germany. When I get the car and get more time to play with it I'll update my thread.


Air Force :thumbsup:


----------



## ibanzil

just picked up my one.1 yesterday...gonna put it in today and throw it on the rta to get ready for next sundays triple point event.


----------



## Vigarisa

can't wait for some listening reviews


----------



## matdotcom2000

How are people getting these bit one .1 I had a friend just order his and he just got the bit one


----------



## ARCuhTEK

matdotcom2000 said:


> How are people getting these bit one .1 I had a friend just order his and he just got the bit one


Most people who have the BitOne.1 are people who have previously owned the Bit One and had issues with them and had to return the unit for a new one. Working with Elettromedia and Audison, the Bit One was updated to a Bit One.1 unit and released around May 11th best I can tell. It is still possible that the original Bit One is still being sold off the shelf.

I have not heard of an official recall, but if your friend has issues, have him report it to his dealer immediately.


----------



## mxl16

ARCuhTEK said:


> Are the Bit One.1's making their way out into the countryside now? I was thinking I would see more comments on installs.
> [/IMG]


When I ordered mine 2 weeks ago, they had 40 on the boat and 40 on a plane waiting to go through customs. All of which were spoken for. Hopefully mine will come in this coming week.


----------



## longboard

so we all know about the bit 1 1 so what is the difference does it have the decoupler built in?? or is this a seperate revision?
electromedia are sending me a decoupler but have said nothing about swoping the bit 1 to a bit 1 1 ?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

longboard said:


> so we all know about the bit 1 1 so what is the difference does it have the decoupler built in?? or is this a seperate revision?
> electromedia are sending me a decoupler but have said nothing about swoping the bit 1 to a bit 1 1 ?


There is no decoupler for the Bit One.1. By all external appearances, it looks identical to the Bit One. The box and all of its contents are exactly the same. As stated above the sticker on the box, which displays the serial number also says "BitOne.1"

I am not the expert, so I have no idea what changes were actually performed on the original Bit One in order to arrive at the new Bit One.1.

I do know the firmware is now V1.5, the DRC upgrade is now V1.5 and the software is now V1.5.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> By all external appearances, it looks identical to the Bit One.


Mostly. Crack the case and it’s a different piece of equipment entirely. No pics, sorry.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

bikinpunk said:


> Mostly. Crack the case and it’s a different piece of equipment entirely. No pics, sorry.




------------------------

Two minor issues so far with my bitone.1

On Master(analogue) I get pops and ticks during track changes. Leading me to believe it could be ground related at the Head unit - Since my bitone and amps share a direct positive and ground from my battery.

On Optical - I get random ticks. If I play a zero bit track the ticks are present. I'm running active 3way plus sub.

Anyone else experience this?


----------



## Ianaconi

Does the BIT1.1 have any different components other than the decoupler?


----------



## AVIDEDTR

decoupler? didn't see that in mine?


----------



## Ianaconi

Inside I mean.


----------



## michaelsil1

They did something inside, but nobody has been willing to tear it apart.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

michaelsil1 said:


> They did something inside, but nobody has been willing to tear it apart.


don't blame them


----------



## quality_sound

michaelsil1 said:


> They did something inside, but nobody has been willing to tear it apart.


There were many upgades to the .1, most notably the output devices, the remote turn on circuit and what is essentially a built-in decoupler. They didn't just wire a decoupler into the chassis, but it's the best way to explain it. It really is very revised.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

bikinpunk said:


> Mostly. Crack the case and it’s a different piece of equipment entirely. No pics, sorry.


How do you know? Have you seen the guts? Hmmm.....very interesting.


----------



## ErinH

I advise against cracking the case. If you try, you’ll see why…


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Doing so to any product would make me nervous. I will leave that to the experts.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Finally got my Bit One.1 this morning. Happy man, I am.


----------



## michaelsil1

Here-I-Come said:


> Finally got my Bit One.1 this morning. Happy man, I am.


Is this the first one or a replacement?


----------



## braves6117

For those who returned their Bit Ones with an RA#, did audison ever confirm receipt of the unit (besides you knowing it was delivered via a tracking #)?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

michaelsil1 said:


> Is this the first one or a replacement?


This is unit #3. I've been in this post for sometime now. I was part of the ground testing, I posted the pictures of the test.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> For those who returned their Bit Ones with an RA#, did audison ever confirm receipt of the unit (besides you knowing it was delivered via a tracking #)?


No acknowledgment of Audison taking delivery of my units was ever sent to me on either of my returns. But then again, I was in touch with them several times, so I would make it a point to ask and they would confirm they had it in possession.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

braves6117 said:


> For those who returned their Bit Ones with an RA#, did audison ever confirm receipt of the unit (besides you knowing it was delivered via a tracking #)?


No,I called them to make sure they had the old unit and to find out when my new unit would be shipped to me.


----------



## braves6117

Thanks for the confirm guys.

Who exactly did you contact? PM if you prefer.

I did call and leave a message, last Wens......Maybe it was the wrong department.

Things have been so busy, I'm just getting back on DIYMA


----------



## ErinH

I never received notification that mine was received, but I knew it got there because of the tracking #. 
If you're worried about it, give 'em a call. Just for peace of mind.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> Thanks for the confirm guys.
> 
> Who exactly did you contact? PM if you prefer.
> 
> I did call and leave a message, last Wens......Maybe it was the wrong department.
> 
> Things have been so busy, I'm just getting back on DIYMA


PM sent. When I first started my communications with them, it took a while for them to call me back. But once they understood my issue was legit....they would return my calls more promptly. Also, they made very good efforts to initiate many of the phone calls once the resolution was more clearly known to them. So I felt good that they had my best interest in mind.


----------



## braves6117

HAHA thanks guys! Talk about quick support.

I'm not worried, just wanted to, you know, check.


----------



## Horsemanwill

has anyone sent theirs back but has not gotten the new one back yet?


----------



## ARCuhTEK

I think that is what Braves last few posts were about just above your comment.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

braves6117 said:


> HAHA thanks guys! Talk about quick support.
> 
> I'm not worried, just wanted to, you know, check.


After all said and done with me shipping it to them Priority Mail and them sending it back FedEx, it took about 10 days total for me to get my new Bit One.1


----------



## Horsemanwill

i returned mine to the dealer back in jan.


----------



## newtitan

can someone help me get my hands on a bitone.1, legal, so incase I ever need it repaired? im in norcal and I have NO IDEA where to make sure I get the updated one


----------



## 03blueSI

newtitan said:


> can someone help me get my hands on a bitone.1, legal, so incase I ever need it repaired? im in norcal and I have NO IDEA where to make sure I get the updated one


Sound Innovations in Hayward, Ca. They are an authorized dealer and know all about the issues.

They said they could get me one in a few weeks. They have installed all of the ones they had.


----------



## newtitan

thanks man, Ill give them a call


----------



## monkeyboy

Horsemanwill said:


> has anyone sent theirs back but has not gotten the new one back yet?


It's been almost three weeks since I dropped mine off at my dealer.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

monkeyboy said:


> It's been almost three weeks since I dropped mine off at my dealer.


My first one was sent and returned quickly. The second one I sent back took longer because I elected to wait on the Bit One.1. I think it took 60 days.

But that was driven by the manufacturing process not customer service or efficiency.


----------



## monkeyboy

I haven't heard anything in a week. I am going to call and get an update.


----------



## braves6117

monkeyboy said:


> I haven't heard anything in a week. I am going to call and get an update.


Let me know what they tell you, that is, should you get in touch.

I have yet to hear back.


----------



## michaelsil1

monkeyboy said:


> I haven't heard anything in a week. I am going to call and get an update.


Jim,

Please post what Audison said.


----------



## mxl16

ARCuhTEK said:


> As stated above the sticker on the box, which displays the serial number also says "BitOne.1"


Does anybody know what "Bit One - S" would signify?


----------



## Ianaconi

S = Special Edition


----------



## mxl16

It says "Bit One - S" on the side of the box and "Bit One - SIP" on the bottom of the processor.


----------



## stereojnky

mxl16 said:


> It says "Bit One - S" on the side of the box and "Bit One - SIP" on the bottom of the processor.


What"s so special about it?


----------



## mxl16

stereojnky said:


> What"s so special about it?


I don't know. I'm just asking if anybody knows what it signifies.


----------



## ErinH

someone said that was the updated version of the original. aka: green sticker version. not the bit one.1, though.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

mxl16 said:


> It says "Bit One - S" on the side of the box and "Bit One - SIP" on the bottom of the processor.


Not sure, but my second unit I had was an "S" unit and it still had Alternator whine. I sent it back, I now have the BitOne.1


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Here-I-Come said:


> Not sure, but my second unit I had was an "S" unit and it still had Alternator whine. I sent it back, I now have the BitOne.1


is your alt whine gone? mine is there only with analogue...pity


----------



## ARCuhTEK

AVIDEDTR said:


> is your alt whine gone? mine is there only with analogue...pity


My Bit One.1 fixed the Morse Code beeping and the whine on analog. Hell it fixed everything!


----------



## mxl16

Interesting piece of information....fresh from elettromedia:

The bit one.1 is NOT released to production. It is in the protoype phase. Meaning if you go to a dealer and order a bit one, you will recieve at bit one - s. If you have issues or problems with the - s you have to go through the motions of troubleshooting and evenutaully that MAY qaulify you to recieve a bit one.1. Oh, and for the 3 year warranty to be honored, it must be installed by a dealer....


----------



## monkeyboy

michaelsil1 said:


> Jim,
> 
> Please post what Audison said.


I'm not dealing directly with Audison, they wanted me to return it to my dealer. I am dealing with Audio Shoppe.

So far, Audison was going to send the piece to remove the digital beeping from the display. I don't know if it has come yet. They also wanted to diagnose the turn off pop with me. I told them that before the bit one, I had a Audio Control EQX in the system. Never any noise. Removed it and wired in the Bit One _per instructions_ and the turn off pop started. Checked my wiring and it was right. Removed amp and replaced with a spare, still had turn off pop. Replaced amp with original, still have turn off pop. Removed Bit One for service, no turn off pop. Swapped amps again just for giggles, no turn off pop. It only happens with the Bit One in the loop. They were going to let Audison know what I have done in my tests and get back to me.

I will keep you guys updated.


----------



## michaelsil1

Audison does want everyone to go through the dealers; I've been a pest. :blush:


----------



## monkeyboy

Yeah, you blew it for us all 

I would have rather gone through them, only because they are in Irvine, and Audio Shoppe is in Riverside. From my house, it's a 100 mile round trip to drop off the Bit One at Audio Shoppe, but Audison is on my way to work.

No big deal, I threw it in my backpack and took my motorcycle. Made a fun ride out of it.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

AVIDEDTR said:


> is your alt whine gone? mine is there only with analogue...pity


I will not know for a few weeks, I moving to another house. So everything is packed up at the moment. But I have no doubt the BitOne.1 is issue free, from what I have been told this unit is a sold performer and a slight upgrade to the older units in term of performance.


----------



## michaelsil1

monkeyboy said:


> Yeah, you blew it for us all


My Bad. :toilet:


----------



## monkeyboy

michaelsil1 said:


> My Bad. :toilet:


It's OK, we still love you!


----------



## braves6117

While I can see the reasons behind requiring a dealer to install the unit, it doesn't void defect issues. 

I sure hope someone that receives a bitone some time down the line with digital beeping has the warranty honored regardless of installation.

I can't wait to get my replacement, having no in car tunes stinks when driving 40+ miles a day!

And, again, no word about my unit yet.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

braves6117 said:


> While I can see the reasons behind requiring a dealer to install the unit, it doesn't void defect issues.
> 
> I sure hope someone that receives a bitone some time down the line with digital beeping has the warranty honored regardless of installation.
> 
> I can't wait to get my replacement, having no in car tunes stinks when driving 40+ miles a day!
> 
> And, again, no word about my unit yet.


Audison is taking care of everyone from my understand that has had a problem with the first run of unit, no matter who installed it. That did with me.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

mxl16 said:


> Interesting piece of information....fresh from elettromedia:
> 
> The bit one.1 is NOT released to production. It is in the protoype phase. Meaning if you go to a dealer and order a bit one, you will recieve at bit one - s. If you have issues or problems with the - s you have to go through the motions of troubleshooting and evenutaully that MAY qaulify you to recieve a bit one.1. Oh, and for the 3 year warranty to be honored, it must be installed by a dealer....


WOW....an interesting position by Audison. I had no idea. Thanks for posting that!


----------



## michaelsil1

ARCuhTEK said:


> WOW....an interesting position by Audison. I had no idea. Thanks for posting that!


I didn't either.:surprised:


----------



## 60ndown

this is why i buy products that have been around and well reviewed for 18 months minimum. and never buy the 'latest and greatest'.

lots of great systems built with older equipment.


----------



## chad

60ndown said:


> this is why i buy products that have been around and well reviewed for 18 months minimum. and never buy the 'latest and greatest'.
> 
> lots of great systems built with older equipment.


no ****!


----------



## michaelsil1

60ndown said:


> this is why i buy products that have been around and well reviewed for 18 months minimum. and never buy the 'latest and greatest'.
> 
> lots of great systems built with older equipment.





chad said:


> no ****!


Just keep on rubbing our noses in it as if we didn't have enough problems.


----------



## monkeyboy

michaelsil1 said:


> I didn't either.:surprised:


It did not say anything about a professional installation on the warranty card. I read it when I bought mine. They were recommending it be installed by the dealer when I bought mine, but it wasn't required.


----------



## mxl16

monkeyboy said:


> It did not say anything about a professional installation on the warranty card. I read it when I bought mine. They were recommending it be installed by the dealer when I bought mine, but it wasn't required.


It isn't required to get SOME warranty. If a dealer installs it you get 3 years. If someone else (not dealer) you get 1 year.


----------



## monkeyboy

It said nothing of the sort on my warranty card. It was one of the things I looked at when I bought it.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

60ndown said:


> this is why i buy products that have been around and well reviewed for 18 months minimum. and never buy the 'latest and greatest'.
> 
> lots of great systems built with older equipment.


No argument there....but then again...now that Audison has proved they have the means and know how to put together the best processor on the market..it wont be long before the Bit One is a staple for many audiophiles.


----------



## tspence73

60ndown said:


> this is why i buy products that have been around and well reviewed for 18 months minimum. and never buy the 'latest and greatest'.
> 
> lots of great systems built with older equipment.


You're right. That's why I bought Infinity Reference. Well tested.


----------



## ErinH

ARCuhTEK said:


> No argument there....but then again...now that Audison has proved they have the means and know how to put together the best processor on the market..it wont be long before the Bit One is a staple for many audiophiles.


don't worry about Luke. He also waited for apple to make a total redesign of their shuffle before he bought one, and then decided to post here about how we should all buy one of those newfangled gadgets. 
give him a month and we'll get to hear about how great the new alpine h701 is.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> don't worry about Luke. He also waited for apple to make a total redesign of their shuffle before he bought one, and then decided to post here about how we should all buy one of those newfangled gadgets.
> *Give him a month and we'll get to hear about how great the new alpine h701 is. *



That he bought for $50.00 :laugh:


----------



## ARCuhTEK

No worries here...just glad I have the best system for me. That is all that counts. But we will all change our system soon....that is how the ball bounces. It just bounces differently for some.


----------



## BigRed

Audison has taken a bad position in my opinion. I have 2 units that I wanted to have exchanged for the new bit 1, and they said no. they told me to take it to my dealer. unfortunately, my dealer is not close. so they basically want me to ship it to my dealer so he can ship it to them so they can ship it back to the dealer so he can ship it back to me. F--k that. Audison knows there is a problem and lets not even bring into the fact the thing has been out less than a year for mass purchase, so there are no "out of warranty" issues. I just find it kind of rude that I live 45 minutes from them, have problems and I have to take this route....especially when others have been "taken care of" by the distribution center with no resistance. some people have had the key guys from irvine come down and install it for them after a call was made. I just think it should be fair for all that have problems with this unit. There is a problem with units. Audison, be fair in regards to exchanging the units. They can internally figure out by the s/n if it was purchased authorized or not....jeeez


----------



## braves6117

BigRed said:


> Audison has taken a bad position in my opinion. I have 2 units that I wanted to have exchanged for the new bit 1, and they said no. they told me to take it to my dealer. unfortunately, my dealer is not close. so they basically want me to ship it to my dealer so he can ship it to them so they can ship it back to the dealer so he can ship it back to me. F--k that. Audison knows there is a problem and lets not even bring into the fact the thing has been out less than a year for mass purchase, so there are no "out of warranty" issues. I just find it kind of rude that I live 45 minutes from them, have problems and I have to take this route....especially when others have been "taken care of" by the distribution center with no resistance. some people have had the key guys from irvine come down and install it for them after a call was made. I just think it should be fair for all that have problems with this unit. There is a problem with units. Audison, be fair in regards to exchanging the units. They can internally figure out by the s/n if it was purchased authorized or not....jeeez




Well, thats certainly weird.

I too wanted to drop my unit being close, but my dealer told me they wouldn't accept it. So, I was given the RA number and address for return, and shipped it directly to Audison.

If they are asking you to ship it back to your dealer, unlike others, I feel they may suspect a purchase that was not authorized. That would make sense since an RA number isn't given by audison to the consumer, but rather, the dealer.

That still doesn't excuse persons with their units that are defective. They too should be given equal oppurtunity to obtain a non defective bitone.1 

That said, I STILL haven't received a phone call or email response back regarding my unit returned midmay. 

I know their busy, and have helped many, but a "one liner" voicemail or email would be suffice.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Big Red and braves6117 who are you guys speaking with at Audison? Big Red you should be able to get an RA and ship them back to them yourself.


----------



## braves6117

Here-I-Come said:


> Big Red and braves6117 who are you guys speaking with at Audison? Big Red you should be able to get an RA and ship them back to them yourself.


Currently, the operator at electromedia. Mr. Phillips has been unavailable for phone calls, thus I left voicemail. I also sent out an email to his personal address.

No big deal really, however, no car tunes is killllllling me :mean:

I suspect the influx of defective units may be overwhelming just as the summer months begin, so not too concerned.


----------



## mxl16

Does anybody have a high noise floor on the optical input? When I turn on the optical device the noise floor drops to a lower level but its still there.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

braves6117 said:


> Currently, the operator at electromedia. Mr. Phillips has been unavailable for phone calls, thus I left voicemail. I also sent out an email to his personal address.
> 
> No big deal really, however, no car tunes is killllllling me :mean:
> 
> I suspect the influx of defective units may be overwhelming just as the summer months begin, so not too concerned.


You have a PM.


----------



## michaelsil1

mxl16 said:


> Does anybody have a high noise floor on the optical input? When I turn on the optical device the noise floor drops to a lower level but its still there.


I also have a high noise floor on Optical.


----------



## Ianaconi

You guys have the new or old Bitone?


----------



## michaelsil1

Ianaconi said:


> You guys have the new or old Bitone?


The S


----------



## quality_sound

So the old one. I've heard 3 of the One.1's and none of them have ANY audible noise floor.


----------



## mxl16

michaelsil1 said:


> I also have a high noise floor on Optical.


any idea as to what is causing it or why?


----------



## _Dejan_

mxl16 said:


> Does anybody have a high noise floor on the optical input? When I turn on the optical device the noise floor drops to a lower level but its still there.


I have noise in optical input. If I have gain on AMP in 0-2V then is low "volume" but if I increase gain then is this noise bigger. No mather if I have anything pluged in to input...


----------



## Technic

mxl16 said:


> any idea as to what is causing it or why?


It should be obvious by now that the first bit one version -be the S, the green dot or whatever- has hardware issues that were apparently fixed so far by the bit one .1.

There's no way around it: you need to replace your unit.


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> It should be obvious by now that the first bit one version -be the S, the green dot or whatever- has hardware issues that were apparently fixed so far by the bit one .1.
> 
> *There's no way around it: you need to replace your unit.*


Easier said than done!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

braves6117 said:


> That would make sense since an RA number isn't given by audison to the consumer, but rather, the dealer.


THat was the case with my second unit RA, but certainly not the case with the first. With the first, my dealer was never involved, though Elettromedia did verify who my dealer was, before giving me the RA directly.

Maybe they have changed their approach with a lot of people calling directly.


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> Easier said than done!


Well, it _was_ easier for a lot of customers with issues to replace their units _under warranty_ -including mine- some time ago. 

Does your unit have any warranty or not?


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> Well, it _was_ easier for a lot of customers with issues to replace their units _under warranty_ -including mine- some time ago.
> 
> Does your unit have any warranty or not?


I don't know, I'm waiting for major numbers to get off the Boat. The new ones seem to be trickling in.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

I'm not understanding why you guys are having problems getting your units replace, besides awaiting the new BitOne.1 to arrive in the States, but other then that it shouldn't be an issue. 

I replace my first unit, thru the dealer a bought it from, but only because I want to keep him in the loop. I didn't have to, I could have shipped it directly to Audison. With my second unit (S model) the dealer got me an RA and shipped back to Audison with a letter inside stating the problem with and the Dealer name and number, along with my number if there was any question. I was instructed by the dealer to put the RA number on few different place on the out side of the shipped box, I put about 8 sticker with RA on it on the box. After I verified it had arrived a Audison I waited about 3 days before calling them. I call and was told my new unit would be shipped out in about 2 days and as promised it was and arrived when he said it would. All in all it took me 10 days to get my new BitOne.1 and this was like 2 weeks ago.


----------



## Technic

Here-I-Come said:


> I'm not understanding why you guys are having problems getting your units replace, besides awaiting the new BitOne.1 to arrive in the States, but other then that it shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> I replace my first unit, thru the dealer a bought it from, but only because I want to keep him in the loop. I didn't have to, I could have shipped it directly to Audison. With my second unit (S model) the dealer got me an RA and shipped back to Audison with a letter inside stating the problem with and the Dealer name and number, along with my number if there was any question. I was instructed by the dealer to put the RA number on few different place on the out side of the shipped box, I put about 8 sticker with RA on it on the box. After I verified it had arrived a Audison I waited about 3 days before calling them. I call and was told my new unit would be shipped out in about 2 days and as promised it was and arrived when he said it would. All in all it took me 10 days to get my new BitOne.1 and this was like 2 weeks ago.


I don't understand either...


----------



## VP Electricity

I suspect dealers have to pay for the new stock (unlikely to be an advance exchange from Audison), and in the current environment, credit hold could be an issue as well.


----------



## chad

VP Electricity said:


> I suspect dealers have to pay for the new stock (unlikely to be an advance exchange from Audison), and in the current environment, credit hold could be an issue as well.


bingo


----------



## CraigE

I have a question about the input side of the Bit One. Should you try to use all of the outputs that are comming from the HU, or just the minimum? Say F/L&R and Sub.

In my case the DNX9140 has F/R L&R, Sub L&R, Ctr. The B1 is controlling a 3way front stage plus a single sub, all active.


----------



## ErinH

just depends on how much control you want to have. For every output you use off your headunit, you have the ability to control the features your headunit has for those outputs.

Example: Use your headunit’s front outputs and subwoofer outputs only, not using the rear outputs. You would likely split all your front stage signal off the front outputs from the headunit going to channels 1 & 2 input on the bit one, but have a dedicated sub control from the headunit going to channel 7/8 on the bit one, too. During setup, you just tell your bit one what channel inputs correspond to which channel outputs. So, then if you wanted to control the subs level from the headunit, you can.
If you use the rear outputs, too, say on midbass, you would use the headunits fade feature to control the output on the midbasses.

It’s up to you. Most everyone will just run a set of RCAs from the front RCA outputs on a headunit and be done with it. I like running a dedicated subwoofer output off the headunit, too, just so you have sub control at the headunit. Really doesn’t matter, though. It’s all up to you.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Exactly.....

I have all the output from my HU that you do, but I chose to run only one pair of RCAs to the Bit One.1 and let my control be only from the Bit One.1. I cannot control F/R fading from my HU....but I can control L/R balance. I cannot control my sub independently from my HU. I have the ability to do some active x/o and eq from my HU, but I leave it at flat so that the Bit One has the flattest signal possible before it begins its job.


----------



## minibox

finally got my bit one hooked up to my drz via optical today and overall I'm very impressed. Awesome user interface, a tuner's dream. The only complaint I have is it seems that the bit one has given me a higher noise floor. I'm using the same audison vrx amps which I didn't have a problem with before but now the background white noise is really bugging me. Anyone else notice this??


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^^im sure some where in the last 55 pages....get a bottle of eye drops and get to readin. lol and yes it has been mentioned.....


----------



## michaelsil1

minibox said:


> finally got my bit one hooked up to my drz via optical today and overall I'm very impressed. Awesome user interface, a tuner's dream. The only complaint I have is it seems that the bit one has given me a higher noise floor. I'm using the same audison vrx amps which I didn't have a problem with before but now the background white noise is really bugging me. Anyone else notice this??


Is your Bit One the S or the new Bit One1?

I have a high noise floor running on Optical through the DRZ (Bit One S).


----------



## stereojnky

minibox said:


> finally got my bit one hooked up to my drz via optical today and overall I'm very impressed. Awesome user interface, a tuner's dream. The only complaint I have is it seems that the bit one has given me a higher noise floor. I'm using the same audison vrx amps which I didn't have a problem with before but now the background white noise is really bugging me. Anyone else notice this??


Yes but it's NEW and IMPROVED white noise. 

Didn't you read the white paper on that?


----------



## minibox

michaelsil1 said:


> Is your Bit One the S or the new Bit One1?
> 
> I have a high noise floor running on Optical through the DRZ (Bit One S).


It's the bit one .1 I'll listen to see if the noise floor lowers with analog input. ARGGGGH!!!!


----------



## michaelsil1

minibox said:


> It's the bit one .1 I'll listen to see if the noise floor lowers with analog input. ARGGGGH!!!!


Please let me know. I don't have any noise with it set on Master.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> Please let me know. I don't have any noise with it set on Master.


Hi,
I try resolve same issue. Tech. support are tell me that they are have same issue and reason has been bad optical cable... Can you try other optical cable? Also source must bee connected to optical cable otherwise you will get this white noise...


----------



## michaelsil1

_Dejan_ said:


> Hi,
> I try resolve same issue. Tech. support are tell me that they are have same issue and reason has been bad optical cable... Can you try other optical cable? Also source must bee connected to optical cable otherwise you will get this white noise...


Optical Cables for the DRZ aren't cheap.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> Optical Cables for the DRZ aren't cheap.


I don't know that because I don't have it... But maybe is something wrong with cable... Can you borrow it from someone for quick test?


----------



## BigRed

here I come, the problem is this.....Audison is not being consistent on how they are handling their issues and or replacements with the unit. Some need an RA to get a unit, some don't. some need to ship their unit in, some dont. some need to take it back to the dealer first, some don't. some have even had audison guys drive to their dealer to have it replaced, most have'nt.


----------



## ErinH

BigRed said:


> some have even had audison guys drive to their dealer to have it replaced, *most have'nt.*


I literally lol’d.


----------



## less

Hey folks,

Its tough getting a handle on where things are with the Bit One overall so I could sure use some input. A very nice DIYMA person has offered to sell me his B1 that came from the very first batch offered in the US. He has offered a fair price and I'd like to do it, but I don't want to be "stuck" with a unit that has issues that can't be resolved without me paying more money and being out of a system for several weeks.

Is it possible that this unit will have no issues at all? I've heard a few folks say that they've installed as many as 6 B1's with no troubles of ANY kind - and yet I see dozens of people here who have troubles at one level or another. It is quite confusing! To top it off, my system really sounds great now... and I almost hate to mess with it... but the B1 may take it up another notch.

If it were not for a the good price on this one, I probably won't be able to afford a B1... so what appears to be the obvious option of just holding off a few months, then buying a brand new one once the bugs are out, simply may not be possible. 

I'll find out from Audison/Elltromedia directly about the warranty issue, so no need to comment on that aspect, but are there many people who had the first generation B1s wrk correctly, right out of the box?

Thanks in advance and sorry for asking yet another question =)

Less/Jim


----------



## ErinH

do you trust the guy? will he take care of warranty issues if you have any arise? 
being an old version, no I wouldn't do it unless I knew 100% the guy would take care of me if it needed to be sent back.


----------



## michaelsil1

less said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> Its tough getting a handle on where things are with the Bit One overall so I could sure use some input. A very nice DIYMA person has offered to sell me his B1 that came from the very first batch offered in the US. He has offered a fair price and I'd like to do it, but I don't want to be "stuck" with a unit that has issues that can't be resolved without me paying more money and being out of a system for several weeks.
> 
> Is it possible that this unit will have no issues at all? I've heard a few folks say that they've installed as many as 6 B1's with no troubles of ANY kind - and yet I see dozens of people here who have troubles at one level or another. It is quite confusing! *To top it off, my system really sounds great now... and I almost hate to mess with it.*.. but the B1 may take it up another notch.
> 
> If it were not for a the good price on this one, I probably won't be able to afford a B1... so what appears to be the obvious option of just holding off a few months, then buying a brand new one once the bugs are out, simply may not be possible.
> 
> I'll find out from Audison/Elltromedia directly about the warranty issue, so no need to comment on that aspect, but are there many people who had the first generation B1s wrk correctly, right out of the box?
> 
> Thanks in advance and sorry for asking yet another question =)
> 
> Less/Jim


What is the saying:

If it aint broke don't F*ck with it.


----------



## Technic

less said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> Its tough getting a handle on where things are with the Bit One overall so I could sure use some input. A very nice DIYMA person has offered to sell me his B1 that came from the very first batch offered in the US. He has offered a fair price and I'd like to do it, but I don't want to be "stuck" with a unit that has issues that can't be resolved without me paying more money and being out of a system for several weeks.
> 
> Is it possible that this unit will have no issues at all? I've heard a few folks say that they've installed as many as 6 B1's with no troubles of ANY kind - and yet I see dozens of people here who have troubles at one level or another. It is quite confusing! To top it off, my system really sounds great now... and I almost hate to mess with it... but the B1 may take it up another notch.
> 
> If it were not for a the good price on this one, I probably won't be able to afford a B1... *so what appears to be the obvious option of just holding off a few months, then buying a brand new one once the bugs are out, simply may not be possible*.
> 
> I'll find out from Audison/Elltromedia directly about the warranty issue, so no need to comment on that aspect, but are there many people who had the first generation B1s wrk correctly, right out of the box?
> 
> Thanks in advance and sorry for asking yet another question =)
> 
> Less/Jim


So what you are saying is that affordable known issues is better than expensive known non-issues?


----------



## BigRed

glad I could make you chuckle bikin


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Less,

I hatge to dump on the the guys effort who is trying to sell you the original Bit One.....and his Bit One may be 100% okay.....but my honest opinion is to NOT buy it for any price.

Save your money and buy the Bit One.1 even if its next year. 

Its not worth it unless you are the original purchaser......it is just not worth it.


----------



## mxl16

I will direct those of you with noise floor issues to go to this thread that I started:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio/60723-bit-one-troubleshooting.html

I have a very detailed log of some of the troubleshooting steps I have taken so far.


----------



## michaelsil1

mxl16 said:


> I will direct those of you with noise floor issues to go to this thread that I started:
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio/60723-bit-one-troubleshooting.html
> 
> I have a very detailed log of some of the troubleshooting steps I have taken so far.


Too bad I don't have excel.


----------



## less

Hi all,

Just talked with Audison and the lady who answered asked me when it was bought. I told her it was right off the first run and she said something along the lines of, "then you will have troubles with it. We fixed them with the 1.1." Eventually I spoke with the National Sales Manager and he informed me (what I should have known already but needed confirmation of) that as long as I wasn't the person on the sales invoice, the warranty wouldn't be honored. He made another decent suggestion though that I'll not go into and sidetrack things.

The short story is that I won't be doing this particular bit one... and I may be looking at a new one at some point. I just can't see relying on someone 1,200 miles away to deal with warranty issues regardless of how much I trust him. Its simply not logistically efficient. 

As for those of you who asked, why mess with a good thing, the answer is simple... what if it makes it even better? My plan was to try it out while keeping my DRZ - then sell whichever I didn't end up using since both would be in terrific shape with little use. The only way I was able to arrive at a system that really pleases me was through the tried and true method of - put it in, and lets see how it sounds! Mostly, I've experimented with drivers and varying mounting systmes for them, going through Rainbows Platinums and Profis, Focal K2P and Utopia, various ADS models and others in various positions before finally settling on this current combo or Morel and Scan. It isn't the fastest way to be sure you get the sound you want, but you get a lot of quality experience this way... and it hasn't been as costly as it could be since I typically buy high value used items and sold them as needed to upgrade.

I'm another one of those goobers that has to try the latest thing out too... imagine that! Anyone here have an "Amen" for me on that one? =)

Thanks for the input guys!
Less... Jim


----------



## mxl16

michaelsil1 said:


> Too bad I don't have excel.


what do you have, I will put it in another format.


----------



## michaelsil1

mxl16 said:


> what do you have, I will put it in another format.


Microsoft Word


----------



## 03blueSI

Just put it in CSV or TSV. As long as you don't care about the formatting and don't have any functions that are unique to excel or use pivot tables he should be able to open it in Google Spreadsheets.


----------



## CraigE

Erin and Kevin,
Thanks for the input on the inputs.
I think I'll keep it simple and run Front L&R to the B1.


----------



## Dot

Hi,

I just have some questions regarding bitone.

On the manual said that if we were to bypass the drc and use the low level setting, it will degrade the sound quality.

so if I still want to use some of the power out of my stock head unit, I should just use the rca out of my HU, and split the cable and connected them to the high level on the bitone to get better sound q?

For whatever reasons, somehow,I actually prefer to control the volume out of the HU, instead of on another volume controller.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge if it can't be done.

And can someone explain me as to why the sq will degrade if I were not to use the drc and using the low level setting?

Thanks alot,

Dot


----------



## Technic

Dot said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just have some questions regarding bitone.
> 
> On the manual said that if we were to bypass the drc *and use the low level setting, it will degrade the sound quality.*
> so if I still want to use some of the power out of my stock head unit, I should just use the rca out of my HU, and split the cable and connected them to the high level on the bitone to get better sound q?
> 
> For whatever reasons, somehow,I actually prefer to control the volume out of the HU, instead of on another volume controller.
> 
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge if it can't be done.
> 
> And can someone explain me as to why the sq will degrade if I were not to use the drc and using the low level setting?
> 
> Thanks alot,
> 
> Dot


That's incorrect... the correct meaning of that sentence is that if you *set/adjust the HU volume to a low level *instead of using the DRC to adjust the volume of the system _while keeping the HU volume at a set level_, it could degrade the sound quality out of the bit one. It does not refer to either the bit one low or high level inputs. 

That is because the bit one _optimally_ process the audio from your HU when it is set at a certain voltage level and then calibrated. That insures the correct and constant input bias for a more efficient and precise conversion/calibartion while reducing any noise/hiss due to low voltage inputs. 

That is correct up to a point, as you can reduce or even eliminate any hiss at the amplifiers by using the gains if you tune the bit one outputs level correctly and still not using the DRC as the master volume controller. I'm not using the DRC because of your same reasons... I don't want to have two volume controls and much less lose my OEM steering controls. However, it takes some extensive tuning to get the bit one to handle the input level voltage fluctuations of my OEM HU without affecting the calibration to a level that is unstable. 

The bottom line is that the DRC do not have to be connected, much less used with the bit one to have great sound quality.


----------



## Dot

Thanks a lot for the answers Sir.

Another thing would be their dynamic equalization,

According to what I've read here where people said that their dynamic eq doesn't work if we don't use the volume control through the drc, then it is not a true dynamic equalization right?

Since it's based on the drc volume control (static), where dynamic equalization should be based on the signal instead of volume control that has been sent to the processors? 

Am I right?

thanks

Dot


----------



## michaelsil1

Dot said:


> Thanks a lot for the answers Sir.
> 
> Another thing would be their dynamic equalization,
> 
> According to what I've read here where people said that their dynamic eq doesn't work if we don't use the volume control through the drc, then it is not a true dynamic equalization right?
> 
> Since it's based on the drc volume control (static), where dynamic equalization should be based on the signal instead of volume control that has been sent to the processors?
> 
> Am I right?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Dot


I hadn't heard that and the Gentleman that said it didn't follow through with investigating this possibility (hint, hint).


----------



## Technic

Dot said:


> Thanks a lot for the answers Sir.
> 
> Another thing would be their dynamic equalization,
> 
> According to what I've read here where people said that their dynamic eq doesn't work if we don't use the volume control through the drc, *then it is not a true dynamic equalization right?*
> Since it's based on the drc volume control (static), where dynamic equalization should be based on the signal instead of volume control that has been sent to the processors?
> 
> Am I right?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Dot


Dynamic equalization only applies to the DRC Master volume and it is dynamic in the sense that you are changing your base equalization depending of the volume level of the DRC. The volume that should be static is the input volume (HU output level) of the bit one. 

The same principle as the calibration procedure applies: the idea is to set the HU volume at a certain level and calibrate. Changing that HU volume level will affect the calibration parameters. Proper Dynamic equalization depends on a stable and consistent calibration. Therefore, Dynamic equalization cannot be dependent of the HU volume level because it will be changing the parameters of the calibration, thus making the equalization unstable and inconsistent. It has to depend in a level stable and consistent with the calibration, and that's only possible thru the DRC and keeping the HU volume at the same volume level as it was when the initial calibration was performed. 

Look at the DRC volume as a dam, and the HU volume as the water: you adjust the dam closing and opening depending on how much water you want to allow to flow out. Dynamic equalization adds a variable opening of that gate depending of how you want that water to flow out.

I assumed as well that the Dynamic equalization was dependent on the HU volume, but after several tests it was simply not correct. This feature is not enabled in my setup as it could result in random outputs when I change my OEM HU volume


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> Dynamic equalization only applies to the DRC Master volume and it is dynamic in the sense that you are changing your base equalization depending of the volume level of the DRC. The volume that should be static is the input volume (HU output level) of the bit one.
> 
> The same principle as the calibration procedure applies: the idea is to set the HU volume at a certain level and calibrate. Changing that HU volume level will affect the calibration parameters. Proper Dynamic equalization depends on a stable and consistent calibration. Therefore, Dynamic equalization cannot be dependent of the HU volume level because it will be changing the parameters of the calibration, thus making the equalization unstable and inconsistent. It has to depend in a level stable and consistent with the calibration, and that's only possible thru the DRC and keeping the HU volume at the same volume level as it was when the initial calibration was performed.
> 
> I assumed as well that the Dynamic equalization was dependent on the HU volume, but after several tests it was simply not correct. This feature is not enabled in my setup as it could result in random outputs when I change my OEM HU volume


Thanks


----------



## ErinH

how many of you guys are not using your headunit's volume control and instead are using the DRC?

I'm mainly focusing on those with an aftermarket deck running analog to the bit1.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> how many of you guys are not using your headunit's volume control and instead are using the DRC?
> 
> I'm mainly focusing on those with an aftermarket deck running analog to the bit1.


I'm only using the DRC; the HU Volume control doesn't work when set to Optical.


----------



## ErinH

hence the part where I said I was mainly focusing on those using analog.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> hence the part where I said I was mainly focusing on those using analog.


Yeah I read that, I also listen to the Radio.


----------



## ibanzil

i have rca to bit1 and love using the DRC...I dont have my steering wheel controls wired so I really like have the remote in my hand while driving, or at leat in my lap. I can turn up my favorite parts of songs and turn things down at stoplights and still keep my eyes on the road. Really like it at night b/c I have my HU on blackout mode and dont have to "awaken" it everytime I want to change the volume level.


----------



## CraigE

I use the DRC Volume Control, and not the HU's.


----------



## BigRed

I have the bit1 hooked to my factory bmw radio and the problem is every time I turn the car off, the volume goes down to a level that was not the setting used for the bit1 in calibration. When I fire it back up, I have to adjust it. anybody know how to fix that?


----------



## VP Electricity

What year and model BMW? (It matters.)


----------



## Technic

BigRed said:


> I have the bit1 hooked to my factory bmw radio and the problem is every time I turn the car off, *the volume goes down to a level that was not the setting used for the bit1 in calibration.* When I fire it back up, I have to adjust it. anybody know how to fix that?


I guess that this is at least a MY2002-on BMW, correct? No fix for that; that's the reason the DRC has a setting to get the OEM volume back to the original calibration level.


----------



## BigRed

yeah, its a 2002 745. its a PITA every time to do that, but then again, at this point there are not many options that I can think of


----------



## Technic

BigRed said:


> yeah, its a 2002 745. its a PITA every time to do that, but then again, at this point there are not many options that I can think of


You do not have to use the DRC for master volume, as discussed before. Just set the DRC volume to around 10-12dB and use your OEM volume as you used to be.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

Here is my bitone USB connector housed inside the factory iPOD location. Took some time and with the help of a knife, dremel and CA glue works perfectly.

Also the USB cable was custom made at USB | FireWire - Angled - Short - Custom - Cables - 877-522-3779

Julian


----------



## Horsemanwill

i know it was posted but i don't want to go through all the pages to find it. is there a way to bypass the automatic gain input adjustment? i thought i saw that somewhere. any help appreciated.


----------



## mxl16

Horsemanwill said:


> i know it was posted but i don't want to go through all the pages to find it. is there a way to bypass the automatic gain input adjustment? i thought i saw that somewhere. any help appreciated.


I just looked for a half hour and couldn't find anything. But I would be very interested finding out if this is possible!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Horsemanwill said:


> i know it was posted but i don't want to go through all the pages to find it. is there a way to bypass the automatic gain input adjustment? i thought i saw that somewhere. any help appreciated.


I think I have read most of the pages in this thread....but this is the first time I have seen this question. I am interested too.


----------



## Technic

Horsemanwill said:


> i know it was posted but i don't want to go through all the pages to find it. is there a way to bypass the *automatic gain input adjustment*? i thought i saw that somewhere. any help appreciated.


There's no such specific feature in the bit one. The input levels are _manually_ set thru the output level section...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Technic said:


> There's no such specific feature in the bit one. The input levels are _manually_ set thru the output level section...


Well since this is my first build, I thought perhaps he had stumbled onto something I accidentally missed. Questions are never a bad thing (or so it used to be true before the invention of the internet, forums and search nazis').


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Well since this is my first build, I thought perhaps he had stumbled onto something I accidentally missed. Questions are never a bad thing (or so it used to be true before the invention of the internet, forums and search nazis').


Either it is the Dynamic EQ or the actual calibration that he's talking about... a search of the user manual does not show anything about any automatic gain adjustment as itself.


----------



## ErinH

I think he's talking about the initial setup which requires the use of an analog signal.

kinda stinks for those wo might want to go only digital. you have to have some analog source to feed signal for initial calibration. :/


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> I think he's talking about the initial setup which requires the use of an analog signal.
> 
> kinda stinks for those who might want to go only digital. *you have to have some analog source to feed signal for initial calibration.* :/


This is from the Bit One Manual:

Remark: calibration is absolutely required to adapt the
Bit One inputs sensitivity to the signal coming from the
source.


----------



## matthewo

i leave the drc at 0 db and use the stock deck for volume, works well for me.. you can all think that -10 db will improve sq but it wont. 0 db on the unit isnt even full output. they leave headroom to make up for people jacking up the eq, i always set my eq under 0 db so i never worry about the problem


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> This is from the Bit One Manual:
> 
> Remark: calibration is absolutely required to adapt the
> Bit One inputs sensitivity to the signal coming from the
> source.


Does anybody have really tried pure digital inputs without any analog calibration first? 

Technically, the calibration should be only needed to set the necessary *A*/D conversion parameters if the inputs are _analog_. So if the input is already digital, why the initial A/D? There's nothing to calibrate as the inputs are in digital raw form ready to be manipulated straight. Just adjust the bit one output levels to match the amplifiers gain downstream and that's it.

Furthermore, the MOST>Toslink converters coming soon not only offer "seamless" bit one integration but there is a version that exclusively outputs digital. MOST OEM HUs also exclusively outputs in digital up to the analog outputs of the OEM amp. So, how an analog signal is required for the bit one calibration when there is no analog signal available and still promise "seamless" bit one integration? 

I don't think that for these converters to "seamlessly" integrate there will be a step in between before connecting them, as in running the calibration with the OEM amp first. What about if something happens to the bit one after doing the analog calibration and the unit have to be replaced? Do the converter has to be removed, the OEM amp has to be re-installed again and then another calibration run with the replacement bit one _before_ the converter is installed again?

Something is not quite right here.


----------



## ErinH

^ I was doing the same. Just leaving master volume on the bitone at 0 and using the headunit's control


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> Does anybody have really tried pure digital inputs without any analog calibration first?
> 
> Technically, the calibration should be only needed to set the necessary *A*/D conversion parameters if the inputs are _analog_. So if the input is already digital, why the initial A/D? There's nothing to calibrate as the inputs are in digital raw form ready to be manipulated straight. Just adjust the bit one output levels to match the amplifiers gain downstream and that's it.
> 
> Furthermore, the MOST>Toslink converters coming soon not only offer "seamless" bit one integration but there is a version that exclusively outputs digital. MOST OEM HUs also exclusively outputs in digital up to the analog outputs of the OEM amp. So, how an analog signal is required for the bit one calibration when there is no analog signal available and still promise "seamless" bit one integration?
> 
> I don't think that for these converters to "seamlessly" integrate there will be a step in between before connecting them, as in running the calibration with the OEM amp first. What about if something happens to the bit one after doing the analog calibration and the unit have to be replaced? Do the converter has to be removed, the OEM amp has to be re-installed again and then another calibration run with the replacement bit one _before_ the converter is installed again?
> 
> Something is not quite right here.


There's no way to get past this, afaik. When you get to the calibration screen you have to choose either high or low level inputs. There's no choice for optical/digital. You can't get to anything else without this initial setup.

I did use a home dvd player for initial setup, then just used optical after that.


----------



## VP Electricity

bikinpunk said:


> ^ I was doing the same. Just leaving master volume on the bitone at 0 and using the headunit's control


This works fine for aftermarket HUs. If you have an OE HU, you need to know if the processing is dynamic (changing with volume) or fixed. If the EQ is dynamic, you have to leave the HU volume in place. (I have heard rumors that the bit one can address dynamic EQ, but never heard of it having been tested). There are plenty of both types, but you can't tell without an RTA on the HU outputs and some testing.


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> There's no way to get past this, afaik. When you get to the calibration screen you have to choose either high or low level inputs. *There's no choice for optical/digital.* You can't get to anything else without this initial setup.
> 
> I did use a home dvd player for initial setup, then just used optical after that.


This could be a good question for Larry... *just why?*


----------



## ErinH

VP Electricity said:


> This works fine for aftermarket HUs. If you have an OE HU, you need to know if the processing is dynamic (changing with volume) or fixed. If the EQ is dynamic, you have to leave the HU volume in place. (I have heard rumors that the bit one can address dynamic EQ, but never heard of it having been tested). There are plenty of both types, but you can't tell without an RTA on the HU outputs and some testing.


Not sure what rumors you've heard, but this is the exact response I received about the bit one's D-Eq. I'm sure the Audison tech wouldn't mind me sharing this. Regarding Dynamic EQ being used when using a source unit's volume knob (aka: no DRC):

"To the best of my knowledge, we are not planning on having our features be controlled through the source unit simple because there is a lot more software engineering involved with that. Because there is no way to physically code a programs for every possible head unit (oem and aftermarket) that might possible be used in conjunction with our piece. That is nearly impossible."


Makes sense to me.


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> This could be a good question for Larry... *just why?*


Well, keep in mind that this was bitone v1... not 2 or 3. 
Things may have changed by now.
I implore you to verify yourself. I'm currently not using my bitone.1 so I can't say if this newest version is the same or not.


----------



## Technic

VP Electricity said:


> This works fine for aftermarket HUs. If you have an OE HU, you need to know if the processing is dynamic (changing with volume) or fixed. If the EQ is dynamic, you have to leave the HU volume in place. (I have heard rumors that the bit one can address dynamic EQ, but never heard of it having been tested). There are plenty of both types, but you can't tell without an RTA on the HU outputs and some testing.


The bit one so far has been much more "resistent" than the 3SIXTY.2 in handling OEM volume variations -specially the BMW speed-dependent bass, equalization _and_ volume automatic adjustments- without stability issues in my setup, either before or after adding the LC6i.

In three different 3SIXTY.2 units I had to use a Matrix line driver before it to keep the input signal high enough to keep it from drifting in calibration while using the OEM HU volume. The main symptom was sounding great one day and having no bass whatsoever the next day without any changes to anything...


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> Well, keep in mind that this was bitone v1... not 2 or 3.
> Things may have changed by now.
> I implore you to verify yourself. I'm currently not using my bitone.1 so I can't say if this newest version is the same or not.


The converter that I need to test this is not available yet.

One thing that the bit one could be capable of doing is setting the calibration "wizard" to low level and just inputting a digital signal only and see what it does.


----------



## matthewo

well you got to think the bitone is not going to be perfect match deffently when you have to use high level inputs. by what i see i have used a 3sixty.2 and its worlds better then that. i can only compair to other units, not to perfection. and this unit works very well for using it with a stock deck.

oh and technic i read threw your post on the bmw forums on the 3sixty.2 a nd still bought one


----------



## Technic

matthewo said:


> well you got to think the bitone is not going to be perfect match deffently when you have to use high level inputs. by what i see i have used a 3sixty.2 and its worlds better then that. i can only compair to other units, not to perfection. and this unit works very well for using it with a stock deck.
> 
> oh and technic i read threw your post on the bmw forums on the 3sixty.2 a nd still bought one


According to RF, they did some improvements to the 3SIXTY.2 some time after my experience that seem to have solved whatever issues I used to have, although they never admitted that there were any such stability issues to begin with.


----------



## matthewo

well i did get a newer unit 2008 mid year. and it did work pretty well, it still had a lot more floor noise and popping noises then the bitone. the bitone also almost does away with my alt whine, which is very bad in my vehical. pontiac g8


----------



## matthewo

one thing that does make my situation a little better for any kind of oem based processing. my head unit is made by blaupunkt and has a lot more features then a lot of oem units. it has the ability to turn off the speed senative volume, and also has the ability to turn of distrotion limiting option. and has eq curves that can be set to none. when i have done oem auto eq it really doesnt change much at all.


----------



## matthewo

VP Electricity said:


> This works fine for aftermarket HUs. If you have an OE HU, you need to know if the processing is dynamic (changing with volume) or fixed. If the EQ is dynamic, you have to leave the HU volume in place. (I have heard rumors that the bit one can address dynamic EQ, but never heard of it having been tested). There are plenty of both types, but you can't tell without an RTA on the HU outputs and some testing.


the bitone does have a dynamic eq, you would deffently need a rta to mess with it, unless you have a super great ear and hours of testing. even with an rta it would probably take lots of testing to get right. it has a low volume and high volume setting. not sure if it averages between the 2 volumes. but i think this is just for the bitones volume control and has nothing to do with aftermarket headunit volume. they ask you to set the 2 volumes (hi/low) on the bitones master volume. then you get to eq it.


----------



## matthewo

one thing i cannot figure out with the program which is thought the program was sposed to do is: show the eq curve for all channels at once including the crossover points, example: so you can visually see where the tweeter crossovers ends and the midrange picks up.


----------



## michaelsil1

matthewo said:


> the bitone does have a dynamic eq, you would deffently need a rta to mess with it, unless you have a super great ear and hours of testing. even with an rta it would probably take lots of testing to get right. it has a low volume and high volume setting. not sure if it averages between the 2 volumes. but i think this is just for the bitones volume control and has nothing to do with aftermarket headunit volume. they ask you to set the 2 volumes (hi/low) on the bitones master volume. then you get to eq it.


The Dynamic EQ is difficult to dial in (for me); It should be a smooth transition from low volume to high volume.


----------



## minibox

thank you technic for bringing up a potential problem using the mobridge MOST to toslink piece and a BIG thank you to bikinipunk for already finding the solution for me


----------



## minibox

bikinpunk said:


> Well, keep in mind that this was bitone v1... not 2 or 3.
> Things may have changed by now.
> I implore you to verify yourself. I'm currently not using my bitone.1 so I can't say if this newest version is the same or not.


apparently things have not changed b/c I'm using the .1 and I had to calibrate with rca's before I could use digital


----------



## doitor

Does the BitOne.1 have an LED screen on the processor?
The BitOne pictured on Marv's raffle thread has one.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...hance-audison-bit-one-processor-giveaway.html

Jorge.


----------



## minibox

doitor said:


> Does the BitOne.1 have an LED screen on the processor?
> The BitOne pictured on Marv's raffle thread has one.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...hance-audison-bit-one-processor-giveaway.html
> 
> Jorge.


my .1 doesn't but I've seen other pics of ones with led screens too.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

doitor said:


> Does the BitOne.1 have an LED screen on the processor?
> The BitOne pictured on Marv's raffle thread has one.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...hance-audison-bit-one-processor-giveaway.html
> 
> Jorge.



Nope, those pictures was of the earlier prototype unit. They went away from the screen on top, being it was just want the DRC is.


----------



## Technic

minibox said:


> thank you technic for bringing up a potential problem using the mobridge MOST to toslink piece and a BIG thank you to bikinipunk for already finding the solution for me


I hope that the DA1000 "seamless" bit one integration somehow eliminates the analog input requirement.


----------



## minibox

Technic said:


> I hope that the DA1000 "seamless" bit one integration somehow eliminates the analog input requirement.


I doubt it. It's never that simple in car audio.


----------



## Technic

minibox said:


> I doubt it. It's never that simple in car audio.


Audison and mObridge are working together on these converters, so I expect the bit one and the DA1000/2000 to share some fancy features among itselves, especially the no-analog requirement. 

Let's see...


----------



## matthewo

boo. once i buy the "best processor" out they are already making something better.


----------



## ErinH

what the heck is this mobridge thing?


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> what the heck is this mobridge thing?


Preamp DA1000 | mObridge USA


----------



## matthewo

interesting, so how would this work with my stock radio, it doesnt have digital output that i know of, would i have to open it up and solder on my own outputs ?


----------



## matthewo

ahh, nm i dont have the bus output or what ever, and im not a supported car  oh well. i bet my deck has preamp outputs, but damn blaupunkt will not support oem units, so i cannot get any info on the deck other then a few wiring schematics i found online. the deck has even video input and aux inputs in rca i dont know why it wouldnt have a preamp output.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

matthewo said:


> one thing i cannot figure out with the program which is thought the program was sposed to do is: show the eq curve for all channels at once including the crossover points, example: so you can visually see where the tweeter crossovers ends and the midrange picks up.


It is not possible to show all channels at once. However, you can show all left (or right) channels at one time. Simply click on any channel (tweeter for example) then hold the CONTROL key down and select any other (or all other) channels on the side of the car.

If you link the x/o points and eq for left and right channels during your tuning, then you would essentially see all the channels at once, when selecting one (full) side of the vehicle. Most people do not have the same eq from one side of the car to another, so in that case you would be able to view all left side drivers or all right side drivers at once (again, using the CONTROL key).


----------



## michaelsil1

1445 Posts; is this a record?


----------



## ibanzil

I wish audison, or anyone for that matter would beat JBL to the punch on their glory machine....I think the bit1 could easily do it since it already uses a computer to send the info and already has the extensive bands of eq to tweek. A simple deal with audyssey and the jbl processor would fall. I dont have a problem with JBL, I just think it would serve audison well and end the hype.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

ibanzil said:


> I wish audison, or anyone for that matter would beat JBL to the punch on their glory machine....I think the bit1 could easily do it since it already uses a computer to send the info and already has the extensive bands of eq to tweek. A simple deal with audyssey and the jbl processor would fall. I dont have a problem with JBL, I just think it would serve audison well and end the hype.


Elaborate? Other than more channels, what of the Bit One is lesser than the MS8 promotes itself to be?


----------



## shadowfactory

ARCuhTEK said:


> Elaborate? Other than more channels, what of the Bit One is lesser than the MS8 promotes itself to be?


Binaural automatic environment correction for one? The EQ on the MS-8 looks to be much better as well, as the curve you draw on it is what you hear in the car, not what the processor will output and then have changed by the vehicle acoustics.


----------



## michaelsil1

ibanzil said:


> I wish audison, or anyone for that matter would beat JBL to the punch on their glory machine....I think the bit1 could easily do it since it already uses a computer to send the info and already has the extensive bands of eq to tweek. A simple deal with audyssey and the jbl processor would fall. I dont have a problem with JBL, I just think it would serve audison well and end the hype.


Audison had a Bit One unit with the Audyssey.


----------



## ARCuhTEK

shadowfactory said:


> Binaural automatic environment correction for one? The EQ on the MS-8 looks to be much better as well, as the curve you draw on it is what you hear in the car, not what the processor will output and then have changed by the vehicle acoustics.


Yes that is right! I forgot about that feature. Hell I have forgotten about half of what has been said about the MS8, but I suppose the same thing could be said about this thread...it is so long, we are basically back at the beginning again! LOL


----------



## Technic

ARCuhTEK said:


> Elaborate? Other than more channels, what of the Bit One is lesser than the MS8 promotes itself to be?


Auto-EQ, built-in amp...


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

michaelsil1 said:


> Audison had a Bit One unit with the Audyssey.


If I remember correctly if is supposed to be coming as an add/optional unit.


----------



## shadowfactory

ARCuhTEK said:


> Yes that is right! I forgot about that feature. Hell I have forgotten about half of what has been said about the MS8, but I suppose the same thing could be said about this thread...it is so long, we are basically back at the beginning again! LOL


Okay...?

If you don't want to wait for the MS-8, then don't. You made your processor choice already, but that doesn't mean there aren't others out there who are still interested in it.

Don't ask questions about a product if your only goal is to make fun of it when it appears to be better in any way than what you currently have.


----------



## michaelsil1

Here-I-Come said:


> If I remember correctly if is supposed to be coming as an add/optional unit.


The Hardware came with there top of the line unit. The option was to buy the Mic and tuning software. That was an additional $300 on top of the $1000+ for the unit. I think that's what I read.


----------



## Technic

shadowfactory said:


> Okay...?
> 
> If you don't want to wait for the MS-8, then don't. You made your processor choice already, but that doesn't mean there aren't others out there who are still interested in it.
> 
> *Don't ask questions about a product if your only goal is to make fun of it. *


Damn... are you for real????


----------



## shadowfactory

Technic said:


> Damn... are you for real????


OP updated for clarity.


----------



## ErinH

michaelsil1 said:


> The Hardware came with there top of the line unit. The option was to buy the Mic and tuning software. That was an additional $300 on top of the $1000+ for the unit. I think that's what I read.


yes, but that never saw the light of day. The original plan was talked about over a year ago and the plan then was to have 2 or 3 (I've read both stories).

AFAIK, that's history now. You just have this one bit one and that's it. But, there are reports of other processors coming out with this kind of stuff...


----------



## ARCuhTEK

shadowfactory said:


> Okay...?
> 
> If you don't want to wait for the MS-8, then don't. You made your processor choice already, but that doesn't mean there aren't others out there who are still interested in it.
> 
> Don't ask questions about a product if your only goal is to make fun of it when it appears to be better in any way than what you currently have.


Hey buddy you are WAY WAY OFF here. I was seriously interested in the question and any and all responses. There was no jab anywhere in my statement. You might notice that one of the above posters mentioned this thread being a record. All that I was playing upon, is that this thread is almost back to zero because there is so much information on it that people are no longer reading the entire thread, therefore some info gets lost.

Please show me where I am making fun of any product. I was serious when I say I had forgotten about certain feature sets of the MS8 because I have...

I asked the poster to elaborate on the differences between the two because I am no longer fresh on the issue.

I dont think you took my post correctly at all. I am not one to sit around and make fun of products. I prefer threads to be more helpful than hurtful.

But I dont mind a little dash of humor.

So, no hard feelings...but do carry on with any info you have.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> yes, but that never saw the light of day. The original plan was talked about over a year ago and the plan then was to have 2 or 3 (I've read both stories).
> 
> AFAIK, that's history now. You just have this one bit one and that's it. But, there are reports of other processors coming out with this kind of stuff...


I just want this one to work right; I'll have a talk with Youseff.


----------



## ibanzil

Ive used the auto eq literally 100 times with my 9887. Each time learning tricks, and getting better results each time but after I got the bit1 and borrowed an RTA...I beat the auto eq easily. Some small timing details the Audyssey did better but overall its curve choices are what hurt it.

Seems like a awesome idea though that when using the ms-8, you actually sit in the car and sound gets analyzed at the point that matters, your ears...on each side individually. 


Anyways, since I can now beat the audyssey eq....Friday the alpine comes out and a Kenwood kdc-x991 goes in. Alpine doesnt sound bad....Just dont need the auto eq anymore and got an amazing deal on the Kenwood which I have always wanted. Gonna have to use the time alignment of the bit1 now since the kenwood only does front/rear

Attached a pick when I was midway through tuning....final rta result looked somewhat along this plot.


----------



## tspence73

ibanzil said:


> Ive used the auto eq literally 100 times with my 9887. Each time learning tricks, and getting better results each time but after I got the bit1 and borrowed an RTA...I beat the auto eq easily. Some small timing details the Audyssey did better but overall its curve choices are what hurt it.
> 
> Seems like a awesome idea though that when using the ms-8, you actually sit in the car and sound gets analyzed at the point that matters, your ears...on each side individually.
> 
> 
> Anyways, since I can now beat the audyssey eq....Friday the alpine comes out and a Kenwood kdc-x991 goes in. Alpine doesnt sound bad....Just dont need the auto eq anymore and got an amazing deal on the Kenwood which I have always wanted. Gonna have to use the time alignment of the bit1 now since the kenwood only does front/rear
> 
> Attached a pick when I was midway through tuning....final rta result looked somewhat along this plot.


Wow, if you took a graph of what my 7-band EQ is set like, it looks similar and I set mine by ear over weeks of back and forth nit picking.


----------



## michaelsil1

Does anyone know the difference between the two crossovers? 

I think they have different Q values at the crossover point, but I don't know what order they are.

What have you found works best in your system?


----------



## ibanzil

tspence73 said:


> Wow, if you took a graph of what my 7-band EQ is set like, it looks similar and I set mine by ear over weeks of back and forth nit picking.


That was after 10 minutes... Most of the time was spent on matching left and right sides as close as possible. It took alot longer with my h701 setup, constantly opening the door and clicking non stop to move to each band...bit1 is awesome. Had my laptop right next to the rta, things went fast.

As far as the different xovers...linkwitz just seems to be a steady drop slightly up to and then right after the point. Butterworth seems better to just cut off and not have frequencies overlap as much.


----------



## G8GT

I'ver been reading about the bit one for a while and am interested in getting one. I've searched the internet and can't find where to get it, so does anyone know where I can buy it?


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^a dealer that sells audison....or give me $800 and ill get you one.


----------



## G8GT

Well I'd like to check one out in person, but don't know of any Audison dealers in the San Antonio area. I e-mailed Audison a week ago but haven't received a response. If I can't find one before too long I may take you up on your offer.


----------



## Ianaconi

Hello guys!

Today I installed the Bitone.1 with the Mcintosh MX5000 / MPM 4000 VU meter.

Everything turns on perfectly.

I connect the BitOne to the computer, it recognizes and everything.

I am sending a pair of RCA and the coaxial cable to the BitOne.

When I try to play SONG #1 of the BitOne CD for the initial setup, it only plays very very low volume. Any ideas?

I tried RCA direct from the CDPlayer to the amps and everything is normal.

What do you guys think?


----------



## 14642

Technic said:


> Auto-EQ, built-in amp...


They really are two different kinds of devices with some similar features. Bit One, like all the other processors is designed to help you install a conventional audio system regardless of what kind of head unit you use. MS-8 is designed to make the car sound great, even if you don't install additional amplifiers and speakers, which is why it includes amplification. 

For hard-core enthusiasts who will upgrade their speakers, the power inside MS-8 won't be what you're looking for. It's there for people for whom the OE power is sufficient, but the sound of the car is not. We provide pre-amp outputs so that those who want to upgrade the power can.

The primary use case for MS-8 is someone who wants to keep the factory head unit. 

MS-8 doesn't use Audyssey. MS-8 doesn't include optical inputs. MS-8 does include REAL center channel processing, which is a big deal if you have a center channel. MS-8 will decorrelate the rear speakers to give you a good sense of ambience, if you want that. If you don't, Logic7 can be defeated. You don't need a PC to program MS-8, and that's a benefit or a drawback, depending on your perspective. MS-8 has a fully-configurable crossover and will support MANY different kinds of systems, but the crossover setup is designed to apply the basic rules of setting crossovers with some help in choosing frequencies that keep drivers safe rather than to allow users to input anything that audio mythology suggests is the right way to do things. There's no overlapping or "underlapping". The typical "underlap" between midbass and bass is handled in a different and better way.

The BitOne is a great product. I've used it on several occasions. It includes a great PC interface and typical tuning tools. Dynamic EQ is cool.

For me, though, the tuning tools aren't enough, but no tuning tools are enough for me. I use 24 amp channels, 160 fully configurable filters for EQ and crossover. about 40 of them are devoted to crossver, 115 for EQ and 5 for some additional phase EQ. I use a custom spatial processing algorithm that's in development for increasing stage width and depth and for extracting a center channel (Logic7 will do this too, but requires more processing power than is required to do what I do), some additional crossover filtering required for that process, and a proprietary bass boost circuit (included in MS-8).

MS-8 is designed to do what I do, but to do it automatically and with far fewer filters and DSP power. 

I think that for now, the BitOne is the best processor available and will likely be the best processor of its type for a long time--and we've tested them all. One day, you'll have a choice between two great but dramatically different products both designed to help you make your car sound great. If tuning is the means, then MS-8 may be the one for you. If tuning is the end and the most enjoyable part of the hobby for you and you're really good at it, you may prefer a product that's a toolbox rather than a carpenter.


----------



## Ianaconi

Ok guys! Good news!

I redid the calibration proccess. The track 1 is barely audible in the setup. I hope that is how it is supposed to me.

After that I tried one of my CDs. Didn't work at all with the input set to MASTER. Tried SPDIF, and it works perfectly (I have some background noise now though).

I was wondering why the MASTER wouldn't work. For the MASTER to work I have to setup the MX5000 Coaxial to INPUT, because on OUTPUT it turns "off" the DAC.

I was told that I could control the volume through the MX5000 using coaxial output, but that is not the case. I move the analogue knob and nothing happens with the volume.

The only problem I am having now is TURN OFF POP (only with COAXIAL OUTPUT aparently). Any ideas? Only happens when I turn off the MX5000. If I turn off the DRC first no problem. I connected everything like the manual said. When I turn off the MX5000, after a couple seconds the DRC/Bitone turns off.

And also some background noise.

But I am very happy that I finally got some sound out of the Bitone hehe.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> They really are two different kinds of devices with some similar features. Bit One, like all the other processors is designed to help you install a conventional audio system regardless of what kind of head unit you use. MS-8 is designed to make the car sound great, even if you don't install additional amplifiers and speakers, which is why it includes amplification.
> 
> For hard-core enthusiasts who will upgrade their speakers, the power inside MS-8 won't be what you're looking for. It's there for people for whom the OE power is sufficient, but the sound of the car is not. We provide pre-amp outputs so that those who want to upgrade the power can.
> 
> The primary use case for MS-8 is someone who wants to keep the factory head unit.
> 
> MS-8 doesn't use Audyssey. MS-8 doesn't include optical inputs. MS-8 does include REAL center channel processing, which is a big deal if you have a center channel. MS-8 will decorrelate the rear speakers to give you a good sense of ambience, if you want that. If you don't, Logic7 can be defeated. You don't need a PC to program MS-8, and that's a benefit or a drawback, depending on your perspective. MS-8 has a fully-configurable crossover and will support MANY different kinds of systems, but the crossover setup is designed to apply the basic rules of setting crossovers with some help in choosing frequencies that keep drivers safe rather than to allow users to input anything that audio mythology suggests is the right way to do things. There's no overlapping or "underlapping". The typical "underlap" between midbass and bass is handled in a different and better way.
> 
> The BitOne is a great product. I've used it on several occasions. It includes a great PC interface and typical tuning tools. Dynamic EQ is cool.
> 
> For me, though, the tuning tools aren't enough, but no tuning tools are enough for me. I use 24 amp channels, 160 fully configurable filters for EQ and crossover. about 40 of them are devoted to crossver, 115 for EQ and 5 for some additional phase EQ. I use a custom spatial processing algorithm that's in development for increasing stage width and depth and for extracting a center channel (Logic7 will do this too, but requires more processing power than is required to do what I do), some additional crossover filtering required for that process, and a proprietary bass boost circuit (included in MS-8).
> 
> MS-8 is designed to do what I do, but to do it automatically and with far fewer filters and DSP power.
> 
> I think that for now, the BitOne is the best processor available and will likely be the best processor of its type for a long time--and we've tested them all. One day, you'll have a choice between two great but dramatically different products both designed to help you make your car sound great. If tuning is the means, then MS-8 may be the one for you. If tuning is the end and the most enjoyable part of the hobby for you and you're really good at it, you may prefer a product that's a toolbox rather than a carpenter.


This is one of the most honest and respectful post I have seen by someone who represents another manufacture. My hat goes off to you Andy and I look forward to working with JBL's MS-8 product.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Ianaconi said:


> Ok guys! Good news!
> 
> I redid the calibration proccess. The track 1 is barely audible in the setup. I hope that is how it is supposed to me.
> 
> After that I tried one of my CDs. Didn't work at all with the input set to MASTER. Tried SPDIF, and it works perfectly (I have some background noise now though).
> 
> I was wondering why the MASTER wouldn't work. For the MASTER to work I have to setup the MX5000 Coaxial to INPUT, because on OUTPUT it turns "off" the DAC.
> 
> I was told that I could control the volume through the MX5000 using coaxial output, but that is not the case. I move the analogue knob and nothing happens with the volume.
> 
> The only problem I am having now is TURN OFF POP (only with COAXIAL OUTPUT aparently). Any ideas? Only happens when I turn off the MX5000. If I turn off the DRC first no problem. I connected everything like the manual said. When I turn off the MX5000, after a couple seconds the DRC/Bitone turns off.
> 
> And also some background noise.
> 
> But I am very happy that I finally got some sound out of the Bitone hehe.


I have not set the BitOne in sometime now, but if I remember correct the level/setup track that is on the BitOne's disc was not very loud. It is more about the voltage output of your head unit. I know on my Eclipse ECD-416 I had to turn the volume up a bit past half to get the bit one to calibrate. This is do the lower voltage output of the ECD-416.

To get the MX5000 to do volume control you had to do some type of loop back to the unit before going to the BitOne is I remember correctly once again. Never used to unit, but I remember reading it in a post on DAA forum when we were talking about digital volume control.


----------



## 14642

Here-I-Come said:


> This is one of the most honest and respectful post I have seen by someone who represents another manufacture. My hat goes off to you Andy and I look forward to working with JBL's MS-8 product.


 
Thanks Mark.


----------



## Ianaconi

Awesome.

How would I be able to do a loop back?

Any ideas about the turn off pop using coaxial? Could it have anything to do with the MPM4000?

What about the background noise?

Thx a bunch!


----------



## CraigE

Andy Wehmeyer...Thank you for the informative post about the differences between the Bit One and MS-8. I always read your posts, because I know I will learn something.
You sir, are a class act and a real benefit to this forum.:scholar:
I hope that I'm fortunate enough to meet you in person one day.
Craig


----------



## ErinH

iirc, thehatedguy was the one talking about this on the site Mark's referencing. You might want to PM him.


----------



## Ianaconi

I tried to do a search there but didn't find anything.


----------



## _Dejan_

Ianaconi said:


> What about the background noise?
> 
> Thx a bunch!


Do you think background noise when you have paused music?
I have same problem with optical input but on master input I don't have this problem...
Elettromedia support tell me that Im ALONE with this issue, and my problem is optical cable. Now when Im buy another optical cable(other brand) and test system with it I have same problem, so problem is not in optical cable...


----------



## michaelsil1

_Dejan_ said:


> Do you think background noise when you have paused music?
> I have same problem with optical input but on master input I don't have this problem...
> Elettromedia support tell me that Im ALONE with this issue, and my problem is optical cable. Now when Im buy another optical cable(other brand) and test system with it I have same problem, so problem is not in optical cable...


You are not alone with this problem and they told me the same thing about my Optical Cable.


----------



## mxl16

michaelsil1 said:


> You are not alone with this problem and they told me the same thing about my Optical Cable.


I have the same issue so you are not alone.


----------



## nick561

great pics thanks


----------



## Ianaconi

Same here.

I have very low noise with MASTER INPUT (problem a ground issue) but with COAXIAL DIGITAL the noise is way higher.

Any ideas guys?


----------



## pikers

Ianaconi said:


> Awesome.
> 
> How would I be able to do a loop back?
> 
> Any ideas about the turn off pop using coaxial? Could it have anything to do with the MPM4000?
> 
> What about the background noise?
> 
> Thx a bunch!


Remember that coaxial digital still has ground potential like an RCA does. Only optical should be noise free. That does not mean you will be 100% free of noise; just that the optical cable isn't at fault if you are.


----------



## Ianaconi

I understand that, but how come the RCA input is way quieter than the COAXIAL DIGITAL?


----------



## Technic

Ianaconi said:


> I understand that, but how come the RCA input is way quieter than the COAXIAL DIGITAL?


Again... _ground._ Somewhere, somehow the ground is not doing its job, thus noise.


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> Again... _ground._ Somewhere, somehow the ground is not doing its job, thus noise.


I say Bull; there's obviously something up with the unit. If i was the only one I would agree, but there's a high noise floor using the Optical.


----------



## Ianaconi

Okay! I agree that I might have a ground issue. I will recheck all my grounds Saturday.

What I am saying is the noise floor is way higher using DIGITAL COAXIAL input. Why would that be the case?

With RCA input the noise is very low, almost inaudible.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Ianaconi said:


> Okay! I agree that I might have a ground issue. I will recheck all my grounds Saturday.
> 
> What I am saying is the noise floor is way higher using DIGITAL COAXIAL input. Why would that be the case?
> 
> With RCA input the noise is very low, almost inaudible.


I haven't reply because I have been trying to figure it out. I think its time for a class to Audison Tech support.


----------



## Technic

michaelsil1 said:


> I say Bull; there's obviously something up with the unit. If i was the only one I would agree, but there's a high noise floor using the Optical.


Somewhere, somehow _includes_ the unit...


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> Somewhere, somehow _includes_ the unit...


Okay, I'll agree with that. :blush:


----------



## quality_sound

Ianaconi said:


> Okay! I agree that I might have a ground issue. I will recheck all my grounds Saturday.
> 
> What I am saying is the noise floor is way higher using DIGITAL COAXIAL input. Why would that be the case?
> 
> With RCA input the noise is very low, almost inaudible.


Ever think it might be a problem with the way the HU grounds the RCAs and the COAX?


----------



## Ianaconi

Yeah, that might be what is causing the problem. I am not putting the guilt on the BitOne just yet hehe. Mine is the Bitone.1 which for some people solved all the issues.

Any idea how to fix/test for that?


----------



## _Dejan_

Now Im see when I pack it into original box that I have BitOne -S and not BitOne...
I will send it back to Dealer and he will send it to elettromedia support to analyze it...


----------



## less

Good God this is getting to be a long term mess I guess isn't it! I am really getting concerned... with my B1.1 scheduled to arrive on the 28th. Did the B1.1 actually fix even 50% of the issues? 

I guess I am going to call the store today and just ask them if they will accept a straight up return if I have any noise issues... and if I do, I'll just ditch the thing and stick with the Clarion. Honestly, the system has been sounding awfully good lately - but the b1 gives me some desireable options IF IT WORKS! 

It seems all I read are people with issues, but if some have them and some don't - I tend to think that there is something in the manufacturing process that is at fault! I know that not everyone is as informed as they should be when installing one of these, but lets face it guys, its simply a matter of hooking up some connections to the thing - it isn't rocket science! I've never owned even a cheap piece of car electronics that had noise issues as long as the wiring was correct - even if the settings were off... so this seems like an issue on the Audison side of things in a major way!

Good luck to those of you with issues. I also welcome any advice from you with experience! I just can't afford to invest in something that will only make life miserable haha! I've already had plenty of that and divorce was the only cure!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

Less,

I have been involved with, and have read 99% of the posts here. I can tell you with certainty that the Bit One.1 solved most of the problems. The reason I cannot use the word "all" is that there seems to be a problem with noise when using the optical or coax cable for input between HU and B1. However, I have never used that connection type, as I only use the RCAs. Having said that, my unit is 100% flawless. I know of no other issues...but I am not the end all, be all, know all here. There may be a lot of posts about issues, even after the Bit One.1 but I am not seeing widespread problems as you seem to state when you use the words "Did the B1.1 actually fix even 50% of the issues?"

IMO YES the Bit One.1 did fix most, if not almost all, of the problems previously known and/or discussed in this thread.

Will you be using the Coax/Optical inputs? If not.....IMO you can relax, your unit will make you happy. If so, perhaps read the last few pages (few...more like 10) to sort through and find the guys using the same connectivity as you intend to use and PM them and get a good understanding of their issues.

Even so, it is not entirely clear that the remaining issues are pointing at the Bit one.1 Having been in the Bit One boat, I know what it is like to have noise issues, and have people saying....oh...its YOU...not the unit....blah blah. So for those with issues, I hope you get them fixed one way or the other. At least you have the option of connecting RCAs and having a great sounding system. When I had my issues...I had no options other than noise.

BTW.....I keep using the terms coax/optical above. I know they are not one and the same, but thus far it is unclear to me which of those two (if not both) methods of connectivity are having issues. Again....I did not go that route. Seems to me that if you are using optical and have noise, its not the optical cable....and if you go coax and have noise....it could be the cable. In either case, the unit itself could be to blame, but a lot of testing is required to isolate.


----------



## _Dejan_

ARCuhTEK said:


> At least you have the option of connecting RCAs and having a great sounding system. When I had my issues...I had no options other than noise.


If I would like use RCA's then I will not buy BitOne, because I can resolve TA, crossover's, EQ with USB DAC and all configure in my source(CarPC) so I will have only one DA conversion...



ARCuhTEK said:


> BTW.....I keep using the terms coax/optical above. I know they are not one and the same, but thus far it is unclear to me which of those two (if not both) methods of connectivity are having issues. Again....I did not go that route. Seems to me that if you are using optical and have noise, its not the optical cable....and if you go coax and have noise....it could be the cable. In either case, the unit itself could be to blame, but a lot of testing is required to isolate.


Im not try how work coax SPDIF, Im try only optical SPDIF and stereo RCA(Master)... I don't use RCA because if I would like use it I must reroute a lot of original cables(for AC, AirBag, locking system, mirrors, windows...) because on RCA produce noise when I have car turned on. When car do not work is all ok...

Im make few test for Elettromedia support. Im make few recordings but quality is very bad because Im record it with phone. 
Im upload it here:
LINK for my Recording files
Also Im upload song from last recording:
Song file

Distance mic from left tweeter is cca. 15cm 
Car turned off.

Recording1.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Min, Optical cable connected 
Recording2.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Min, Optical cable disconnected 
Recording3.wav - All turned off - Something like reference file  
Recording4.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Max, Optical cable connected 
Recording5.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Max, Optical cable disconnected 
Recording6.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Max, Optical cable connected - Testing Turn on/off BitOne trough DRC 
Recording7.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Max, Optical cable connected - Switching beetween Master and Optical source - You can hear diference 
Recording8.wav - GAIN on LRx4.1 = Min, Optical cable connected - Playing sound(Soundcard output 24Bit/48kHz, file 24Bit/96kHz)
-----------------------------------
Today Im send my unit back and from Elettromedia support they are tell me that they will find solution for me and be sure that I will be satisfied...

I will post what we will find...

P.S.
Im read manual and Im see that BitOne.1 have little more output power for remote:
Remote OUT voltage (Bit One) 12 VDC (20 mA)
Remote OUT voltage (Bit One.1) 12 VDC (130 mA)


----------



## G-rig

Hi guys, I've been following this thread for a fair while now and happy to report i've recently installed a Bit One.1.

Pretty happy with it however I've got a popping sound through the speakers when i start the car. This isn't every time, mostly happens if the power is on but dont start the car immediately.

Just some car specific info: Using the stock HU with high level wires, power, ground in & remote out connected (VW Golf). No need for the memory wire. (Amps are 3 x Arc mini's).

This is my only complaint as i'm wrapped that there is no noise, hiss or other side affects. just wanted to see if there are any tricks with the wiring or software before I send Electromedia an email about it.

Thanks,


----------



## quality_sound

Greg,

It's not Bit One related. It's because the RNS-510 fires up when you unlock the car so it, and the Bit One are already on when you start the car. My car did the same thing with the Cleansweep. The ONLY tine it hasn't done it is when I had a normal LOC installed. 

Using the S-Contact for remote turn on would fix it I'm sure but no one can tell me where to tap it or provide me wit a schematic so I can find it myself. lol


----------



## efun

_Dejan_ said:


> I have same problem with optical input but on master input I don't have this problem...
> Elettromedia support tell me that Im ALONE with this issue, and my problem is optical cable. Now when Im buy another optical cable(other brand) and test system with it I have same problem, so problem is not in optical cable...


Bad news for me since I will use digital input. Has anybody tried both type of the DIGITAL(TSOLINK and COAXIAL) input ?

EDIT: I just realized that it was BitOne-S not BitOne.1, Anyboy has test the digital input of BitOne.1?


----------



## braves6117

less said:


> Good God this is getting to be a long term mess I guess isn't it! I am really getting concerned... with my B1.1 scheduled to arrive on the 28th. Did the B1.1 actually fix even 50% of the issues?


The bitone.1 solved the following issues for me:

1) Audible digital beeping when the DRC volume was muted.

2) Audible speaker pop when my head unit volume was turned from -83db to -84db (or in other words, mute)

3) A 15 to 20 second turn off delay after head unit is/was turned off

4) A DRC turn on delay (DRC wouldn't dispay anything even thought music was audible for 5 to 8 seconds).


The other audible differences are as follows:

No more speaker hiss with no music playing and volume high, its dead silent epper:

The other noticed improvements:

I have no issues whatsoever, a perfect functioning unit (have not tested digital ins for noise and won't be anytime soon). :laugh:


----------



## efun

braves6117 said:


> The bitone.1 solved the following issues for me:
> 
> 1) Audible digital beeping when the DRC volume was muted.
> 
> 2) Audible speaker pop when my head unit volume was turned from -83db to -84db (or in other words, mute)
> 
> 3) A 15 to 20 second turn off delay after head unit is/was turned off
> 
> 4) A DRC turn on delay (DRC wouldn't dispay anything even thought music was audible for 5 to 8 seconds).
> 
> 
> The other audible differences are as follows:
> 
> No more speaker hiss with no music playing and volume high, its dead silent epper:
> 
> The other noticed improvements:
> 
> I have no issues whatsoever, a perfect functioning unit (have not tested digital ins for noise and won't be anytime soon). :laugh:


Congratulations! 

Can't wait to order the bitone.1, but I have to wait since I'll use the digital input of carputer :mean:


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> Greg,
> 
> It's not Bit One related. It's because the RNS-510 fires up when you unlock the car so it, and the Bit One are already on when you start the car. My car did the same thing with the Cleansweep. The ONLY tine it hasn't done it is when I had a normal LOC installed.
> 
> Using the S-Contact for remote turn on would fix it I'm sure but no one can tell me where to tap it or provide me wit a schematic so I can find it myself. lol


Hey Paul, thanks for your reply (and good advice as usual). I assume the amp are being woken up when you first unlock the car then they may go off before popping when you start the ignition.

Apparently they have wired up the RMA Jetta so it doesn't do it and will hear what they did tomorrow. Hopefully there is a fix as it's the only fault so far!

Someone else suggested wiring to ignition, but i'd prefer to have sound when i turn the engine off etc.

Cheers,


----------



## quality_sound

Exactly. The HU spins up the HDD in the HU when you unlock the car to minimize boot-up time. One way you get a turn on pop, the other you have to have the ignition on. I'll deal with the pop...for now.


----------



## efun

So what is the policy now? Does elettromedia refresh their stock and start to sell the BitOne.1?


----------



## efun

My car is BMW E90 with HIFI option, I'd like use the HU ouput insteadof AMP output. Since my HU output is a balanced/differential signal, I want to make sure if BitOne accept it as low level input.


----------



## G-rig

efun said:


> So what is the policy now? Does elettromedia refresh their stock and start to sell the BitOne.1?


The Bit One.1 i received still had the old firmware on the DRC. The label on the box and unit says it's a Bit One.1 so I assume/hope it is.


----------



## efun

G-rig said:


> The Bit One.1 i received still had the old firmware on the DRC. The label on the box and unit says it's a Bit One.1 so I assume/hope it is.


Since the bit one.1 has a new PCB, you can crack it and compare it's PCB with the picture posted at first floor. There should be a difference.


----------



## G-rig

efun said:


> Since the bit one.1 has a new PCB, you can crack it and compare it's PCB with the picture posted at first floor. There should be a difference.


I'm not opening mine up, nice try :laugh:.

Be nice if there was a more solid way of checking if it's a bit one.1 or not, like all serial numbers after a certain number etc.


----------



## less

Check this! I got a couple more email messages from friends who don't think I should buy a Bit One - and they had logical reasons with stories of people not being able to even get sound out of their brad new point one versions. So, I called the Audison dealer who mine was ordered from to ask about their return policy - and the owner tells me - NO REFUND! 

I gotta tell you - it was tough not just exploding at this guy! All I wanted was assurance that if the unit had issues - right out of the box, that I could get a refund and not have to go through the 6 month process so many seem to be going through trying to get their units working! Its not like I wanted to give him back a perfectly working unit and for God's sake they know well that the unit has issues. This dealer has never sold a single unit though - and so he "special ordered" it.

So, I have to admit, I am VERY tempted to simply contact my debit card company and initiate a refund that way. The unit is in transit now, but I actually contacted the dealer prior to its getting mobile and he never called me back. Hell is it too much to ask for a working product?

The idea of having to drive 180 miles to get to an authorized repair place and then having to deal with people who have never dealt with the Bit One and asked me the question - "what am I planning to use it for?" (What did they think I would use if for? A shoe box?), really has me worried about this whole investment!

Still wondering the odds of getting a working unit too... some people are getting working units, aren't they?

Less


----------



## ErinH

efun said:


> Since the bit one.1 has a new PCB, you can crack it and compare it's PCB with the picture posted at first floor. There should be a difference.


It's not as easy as it used to be.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

less said:


> Check this! I got a couple more email messages from friends who don't think I should buy a Bit One - and they had logical reasons with stories of people not being able to even get sound out of their brad new point one versions. So, I called the Audison dealer who mine was ordered from to ask about their return policy - and the owner tells me - NO REFUND!
> 
> I gotta tell you - it was tough not just exploding at this guy! All I wanted was assurance that if the unit had issues - right out of the box, that I could get a refund and not have to go through the 6 month process so many seem to be going through trying to get their units working! Its not like I wanted to give him back a perfectly working unit and for God's sake they know well that the unit has issues. This dealer has never sold a single unit though - and so he "special ordered" it.
> 
> So, I have to admit, I am VERY tempted to simply contact my debit card company and initiate a refund that way. The unit is in transit now, but I actually contacted the dealer prior to its getting mobile and he never called me back. Hell is it too much to ask for a working product?
> 
> The idea of having to drive 180 miles to get to an authorized repair place and then having to deal with people who have never dealt with the Bit One and asked me the question - "what am I planning to use it for?" (What did they think I would use if for? A shoe box?), really has me worried about this whole investment!
> 
> Still wondering the odds of getting a working unit too... some people are getting working units, aren't they?
> 
> Less


Well you if i have problems with my .1 i'm flying the dealer I bought it from the go ape sh*t, I'm like most people who has bought one, I jump the gun because Audison being Audison and thought it would be a solid product. This whole no refund thing is just crazy. The unit is just an amazing sound product when working. My .1 is still setting in its box, I have only remove it to look at for about 3 mins. Have had time to hook it up on the bench to test it.

Because of the no refund bull is way people have no choice to the stick it out and hope for the best with these unit. And your right it is an investment, while not the most expensive processor out there it is not some 200-300 dollar investment. Hell with shipping back 2 other units I'm at what now, nearly 800 bux. I remain hopful Audison will be their Sh*t together and get this wonderful product to the trouble free unit it should be.

OK got get some sleep now been up all night!


----------



## efun

.
.
Does anybody know if bit one can accept a balanced(differential) signal?
.
.


----------



## ErinH

well, I don't know if it can't, but I do know that it doesn't have balanced in/outs.


----------



## braves6117

I've been using the BitOne.1 for a while now, daily, problem free. In fact, I ran it one period for 7 hrs straight during a road trip. From my other post yesterday:




braves6117 said:


> The bitone.1 solved the following issues for me:
> 
> 1) Audible digital beeping when the DRC volume was muted.
> 
> 2) Audible speaker pop when my head unit volume was turned from -83db to -84db (or in other words, mute)
> 
> 3) A 15 to 20 second turn off delay after head unit is/was turned off
> 
> 4) A DRC turn on delay (DRC wouldn't dispay anything even thought music was audible for 5 to 8 seconds).
> 
> 
> The other audible differences are as follows:
> 
> No more speaker hiss with no music playing and volume high, its dead silent epper:
> 
> The other noticed improvements:
> 
> I have no issues whatsoever, a perfect functioning unit (have not tested digital ins for noise and won't be anytime soon). :laugh:


----------



## efun

bikinpunk said:


> well, I don't know if it can't, but I do know that it doesn't have balanced in/outs.


Got a post. Seems that bitone can work with balanced input. 
Pics of my install - PDX 5 Audison Bit 1 - BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (M1 / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)

But I have no idea if I need connect HU output to SPEAKER IN(high level input) of bitone, or connect to PRE IN(low level input) of bitone.


----------



## HIS4

efun said:


> Got a post. Seems that bitone can work with balanced input.
> Pics of my install - PDX 5 Audison Bit 1 - BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (M1 / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
> 
> But I have no idea if I need connect HU output to SPEAKER IN(high level input) of bitone, or connect to PRE IN(low level input) of bitone.


You need to connect it to the low level input. The way I planned to do it is to intercept the low level output signals of the HU at the OEM amp input connector. I was probably going to install some type of molex connector that would allow me to plug in my own RCA pigtails off the HU outputs and also reconnect the leads back to the OEM amp if I ever decide to remove the system.


----------



## quality_sound

efun said:


> My car is BMW E90 with HIFI option, I'd like use the HU ouput insteadof AMP output. Since my HU output is a balanced/differential signal, I want to make sure if BitOne accept it as low level input.


it'll be fine.


----------



## quality_sound

I can't believe people are still hesitant. I've personally installed or helped install 4 of thes .1s now and ALL were problem free. Mine uses high level inputs, two were low level and one was optical. 

With so many retailers here I'm surprised no one has mentioned anything about the no refund thing. There isn't a law anywhere that says refunds or exchanges by a retailer are a guaranteed thing. It's done as a courtesty but it's certainly not required. Repair or replacement is still guaranteed by the manufacturer though. 

Having said all that, I can't see anyone having any problems with a .1. I would love to see somethin gin public about these supposedly "bad" B1.1s.


----------



## Technic

I don't know where to start, but I know this... the bit one is a $800 piece of equipment. This is not a necessity, much less a requirement. You either buy it or you don't... easy, simple. If you buy it just make sure that you know the terms of the purchase and warranty *before* buying it, especially the part of the seller being Audison authorized. If you don't buy it then you just saved $800... congratulations!

I don't understand this forum too well. It seems to me that there are too many members here that are either _married or divorced_ from audio brands, because their love and hate towards _brands in general_ is really disturbing to me. It also seems to me that when some particular members criticize the bit one they are doing it in a way that implies that the purchaser does not know that he/she just bought ****. 

The funny thing is that 100% of those hardcore critics do not have a bit one, much less have installed one. But damn, they surely know what they are talking about...


----------



## G-rig

I agree.. Anyone holding off should pull the trigger now, as my Bit One.1 is great, can't really complain at all (besides a VW/power pop issue). Should be reasonably reliable now as long as you can order a new model.

I haven't tested all inputs as i'm running high level speaker wires. It does sound very good - No noise or hiss and dont think you could get much more out of a stock head. Much better than when i was running a cheap SLOC and the Alpine H701+RUX Controller. I would have needed to buy the L6Ci as well but still would have had hiss.


----------



## less

Hey all,

I should have been more clear - as for the refund, I would only ask for one if the unit doesn't work right - right out of the box. It seems fair to me to ask for a product that doesn't require months of drama to get working... and that is all I was trying to clarify with the dealer. You know, you buy these things to upgrade your system, and it is really tough to make a good quality decision when you have input coming in from good concerned people that tell you both the best things imaginable and the worst scenarios you can imagine! 

Maybe for someone with a lot of spare cash, this decision is "simple, easy" but personally I'm struggling a fair bit due to some health issues that have negatively impacted every aspect of my life. This is my sole hobby left and just because I am a bit more tight financially, that doesn't change the fact that I am very passionate about doing it right! 

I'm getting pretty stoked to try this out and just hoping its going to simply work right so I can - install it, tweak it a bit and the nrock on down the road! If it can possibly make my system sound even better, I think I'll have a helluva nice sounding set up =)

As for the refund comment though, I do have to say that I've been buying electronic equipment from sellers of all kinds for 33 years and have NEVER been told straight out that I can't get a refund on a non-working unit! As such, it is safe to say that such policies are an industry standard. I understand Caveat Emptor - but it is also a world in which the buyer who gets screwed can strike back if needed. It just seems amazing to me that a reputable retailer, selling a prestigious product line, and dealing with a product with a history of known issues, would choose such a policy. To the dealers credit though, he did seem to back off that stance after a bit more conversation. 

I'm sure it will come out well in the end. 

BTW - is there a consensus on which seems to work better with the B1 - optical or coaxial for the digi in?


----------



## G-rig

Seems fair that if your unit is not working it should that it be replaced with a new one.


----------



## Buzzman

G-rig said:


> Seems fair that if your unit is not working it should that it be replaced with a new one.


But that's never been an issue with Audison on any Bit One purchased from an authorized dealer. I had 3 units replaced, no questions asked. 

The other poster is asking about getting a "refund." But, that's not the responsibility of the manufacturer. The manufacturer offers the warranty and stands behind it. Whether a refund will be provided is solely in the discretion of the seller. But, how often do you see a retailer offer a refund on an opened and used product? A specialty high end car audio most certainly won't offer a refund on an opened and used product. Even Al & Ed's doesn't offer refunds on such items. And, if the item hasn't been opened or used, they will charge you a "restocking fee" for taking it back. You might get a refund if you shopped at Costco and Walmart etc. But, you better plan on buying Sony Xplod, not Audison.


----------



## CraigE

I'm sure the Bit One will give you intense aural pleasure.


----------



## G-rig

Buzzman said:


> But that's never been an issue with Audison on any Bit One purchased from an authorized dealer. I had 3 units replaced, no questions asked.
> 
> The other poster is asking about getting a "refund."


Yes, i doubt anyone would get an all out 'refund' but if he gets a Bit One.1 he shouldn't need a refund.


----------



## Buzzman

G-rig said:


> Yes, i doubt anyone would get an all out 'refund' but if he gets a Bit One.1 he shouldn't need a refund.


Refund? Shoots, he shouldn't need a replacement.


----------



## ibanzil

cant find this out....I saved all my eq setting and setup the input level for the bit1 when I had my 9887 but now have a kenwood x991 and I run the calibration for input level then I load my old preset for the eq settings.

Anyone know if It is reverting to my old input level setup when I load my old eq presets? Just wondering because I have to turn the hu volume down to get it to sound right, if I leave it where I had it for the setup...things just dont sound right.


----------



## michaelsil1

ibanzil said:


> cant find this out....I saved all my eq setting and setup the input level for the bit1 when I had my 9887 but now have a kenwood x991 and I run the calibration for input level then I load my old preset for the eq settings.
> 
> Anyone know if It is reverting to my old input level setup when I load my old eq presets? Just wondering because I have to turn the hu volume down to get it to sound right, if I leave it where I had it for the setup...things just dont sound right.


You have to start new; pull up the old settings and input them.


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^^ I open the software, click I/O configuration wizard, after it gets the levels, I click memory/ load all presets, click the file that has my presets and thats it. the presets are for the a,b,c,d. Im loading presets, not the setup. Dont know if that makes a difference?

Are you saying this is a problem or that I am doing it right?


----------



## _Dejan_

ibanzil said:


> ^^^^^ I open the software, click I/O configuration wizard, after it gets the levels, I click memory/ load all presets, click the file that has my presets and thats it. the presets are for the a,b,c,d. Im loading presets, not the setup. Dont know if that makes a difference?
> 
> Are you saying this is a problem or that I am doing it right?


Do you hear diference in volume? If not then it do not efect on gain settings...


----------



## michaelsil1

ibanzil said:


> ^^^^^ I open the software, click I/O configuration wizard, after it gets the levels, I click memory/ load all presets, click the file that has my presets and thats it. the presets are for the a,b,c,d. Im loading presets, not the setup. Dont know if that makes a difference?
> 
> Are you saying this is a problem or that I am doing it right?


You won't have the levels that it measured from your HU if you do that.


----------



## Buzzman

ibanzil said:


> cant find this out....I saved all my eq setting and setup the input level for the bit1 when I had my 9887 but now have a kenwood x991 and I run the calibration for input level then I load my old preset for the eq settings.
> 
> Anyone know if It is reverting to my old input level setup when I load my old eq presets? Just wondering because I have to turn the hu volume down to get it to sound right, if I leave it where I had it for the setup...things just dont sound right.


No, it's not reverting to the old input level setting when you load your old presets unless the output voltage of your new and old HUs are identical, which is unlikely. Since it is likely that the input sensitivity level setting of the Bit One will be different with the new HU than with your prior HU, your old settings will not be optimal. You must re-do the I/O Configuration and adjust your DSP settings and your output level settings which are then saved and finalized to the Bit One. You can certainly re-load the old settings if you want to use the same Xover, TA, etc. settings, but the gain levels on the Output screen will likely have to be adjusted, and the settings then resaved and finalized to the Bit One.


----------



## less

Is there a link to the most up to date BitOne manual available somewhere? Googling has not yielded any results and I suspect the pre-release manual I'm looking at may no longer be accurate. 

Thanks in advance.
Jim


----------



## diegoejea

Hi all!

I read you from time to time! We have in Spain anothers SQ car audio forums, but this one is so interesting that stoles some of my time!

Guys, a lot of people here in Spain is wishing to have a BitOne, and somebody already have it, enjoying its performance, but through RCA...

Does any of you know if currently the BitONe works perfectly through digital? Here in Spain there is an owner who had personnal support from Audison, and even that, he still has background noise by digital connection.

HOw is the status in USA? are there happy owners having their BitOnes working flawleesly by digital connection?

Best Regards to all, and thanks for all your master opinions,

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Buzzman

diegoejea said:


> Hi all!
> 
> I read you from time to time! We have in Spain anothers SQ car audio forums, but this one is so interesting that stoles some of my time!
> 
> Guys, a lot of people here in Spain is wishing to have a BitOne, and somebody already have it, enjoying its performance, but through RCA...
> 
> Does any of you know if currently the BitONe works perfectly through digital? Here in Spain there is an owner who had personnal support from Audison, and even that, he still has background noise by digital connection.
> 
> HOw is the status in USA? are there happy owners having their BitOnes working flawleesly by digital connection?
> 
> Best Regards to all, and thanks for all your master opinions,
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Read this thread and you will get all the answers you need.


----------



## JayinMI

I would agree...but it's *62* pages!!!


----------



## ARCuhTEK

JayinMI said:


> I would agree...but it's *62* pages!!!


It is 62 pages yes, but it would only be 32 if people would not ask (and answer) the same questions over and over.


----------



## monkeyboy

Buzzman said:


> But that's never been an issue with Audison on any Bit One purchased from an authorized dealer. I had 3 units replaced, no questions asked.
> 
> The other poster is asking about getting a "refund." But, that's not the responsibility of the manufacturer. The manufacturer offers the warranty and stands behind it. Whether a refund will be provided is solely in the discretion of the seller. But, how often do you see a retailer offer a refund on an opened and used product? A specialty high end car audio most certainly won't offer a refund on an opened and used product. Even Al & Ed's doesn't offer refunds on such items. And, if the item hasn't been opened or used, they will charge you a "restocking fee" for taking it back. You might get a refund if you shopped at Costco and Walmart etc. But, you better plan on buying Sony Xplod, not Audison.


Well... I wish I could agree. Audison returned mine "fixed" not replaced. I wired it back up, and it was worse than before. Still have the digital beeping, and now it has some sort of alternator noise. It didn't have the alternator noise before. I was asked to leave a message for Yousef, and I have. I am waiting for the next move, but I would really like a BitOne.1. It is the last piece of my system. I am waiting on it to do my final install. UGH


----------



## michaelsil1

monkeyboy said:


> Well... I wish I could agree. Audison returned mine "fixed" not replaced. I wired it back up, and it was worse than before. Still have the digital beeping, and now it has some sort of alternator noise. It didn't have the alternator noise before. I was asked to leave a message for Yousef, and I have. I am waiting for the next move, but I would really like a BitOne.1. It is the last piece of my system. I am waiting on it to do my final install. UGH


Bummer!


----------



## Flash_Gti

Hi Guys, 

I havent had the time to peruse the thread in its entirety. We just had an Iasca show this weekend and one of the DLS equipped cars came thru with the first Bit-one iv seen installed in South Africa. My question is - Is the bit-one.1 that you guys talk abt simply a different firmware from original or a upgraded hardware + unit? Cos when the car was demo-ed for me , The controller on the unit read audison 1.5.....


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Flash_Gti said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I havent had the time to peruse the thread in its entirety. We just had an Iasca show this weekend and one of the DLS equipped cars came thru with the first Bit-one iv seen installed in South Africa. My question is - Is the bit-one.1 that you guys talk abt simply a different firmware from original or a upgraded hardware + unit? Cos when the car was demo-ed for me , The controller on the unit read audison 1.5.....


The BitOne.1 is a New unit with quite a few changes to the hardware. There is no-way to tell any version of the BitOne apart just by looking at it installed in vehicle, that all look the same. There are a few ways of knowing which unit they or you have.

1. The box it comes it well say BitOne (original version), BitOne - S (Second version, but not new hardware, just some fixes done.) and BitOne.1 (The unit you want to have. It a new unit with many hardware changes and upgrades.)

2. Open the unit up. If you can get as far as to remove the board from the casing, it is not a BitOne.1

3. If your having more problems then US Economy with the unit, It is not a BitOne.1


The latest Firmware is 1.5, well it was the last time I checked

But the question of the Day is, How did the car sound?


----------



## Flash_Gti

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Flash_Gti View Post
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I havent had the time to peruse the thread in its entirety. We just had an Iasca show this weekend and one of the DLS equipped cars came thru with the first Bit-one iv seen installed in South Africa. My question is - Is the bit-one.1 that you guys talk abt simply a different firmware from original or a upgraded hardware + unit? Cos when the car was demo-ed for me , The controller on the unit read audison 1.5.....
> The BitOne.1 is a New unit with quite a few changes to the hardware. There is no-way to tell any version of the BitOne apart just by looking at it installed in vehicle, that all look the same. There are a few ways of knowing which unit they or you have.
> 
> 1. The box it comes it well say BitOne (original version), BitOne - S (Second version, but not new hardware, just some fixes done.) and BitOne.1 (The unit you want to have. It a new unit with many hardware changes and upgrades.)
> 
> 2. Open the unit up. If you can get as far as to remove the board from the casing, it is not a BitOne.1
> 
> 3. If your having more problems then US Economy with the unit, It is not a BitOne.1
> 
> 
> The latest Firmware is 1.5, well it was the last time I checked
> 
> But the question of the Day is, How did the car sound?



thanks for that, I placed an order at the show. That car was already a 2008 winner in the ametuer division overall even before the bit-one. it is the first time iv heard it so i wouldn be able to comment further than that. It took 1st place in its division (sorry , i dont know which division it competed in.) with a full DLS componentry. when i did get a listen....shew...amazing. lol, guys before u start , Im new to sq. I did take 1st place in the 'rookie' division ( my first show ever!) so excuse the noobiness!!

H.I.C - thanks , will be sure to check with our audison dealer for further spec!


----------



## diegoejea

Buzzman said:


> Read this thread and you will get all the answers you need.


Thanks Buzzman! But honestly, I read the thread from page 20 or 30 untill this last one. I tried to understand everything, but as you say, maybe the thread is too large to get strong conclusion, or maybe is because my english is not enough good 

Sorry guys. Then, do you know if in the BitOne.1 the digital input works perfectly, with no problems anymore? Here in Spain, we still don´t know this! Is incredible...

In another forum from Australia, Audison people say that the problem you are suffering, the fact that some of you need a replacement of the BitOne for a BitOne.1, is only a USA problem. They say this because somebody is suffering problems in Australia, but for the moment, Audison don´t want to say that they need to be replaced.

And this is the similar point in Spain. For the moment, there are no answers for any of us. It looks like Audison only wants you to sell the BitOne. ONce done, if you have problems, they will try to do something. But anyway, it seems that they don´t fix things to work flawlessly...

Thanks guys for your previous answers and all this thread


----------



## ibanzil

We need to nominate someone to write a revised thread by sorting through all this and cutting the questions and answers down to a minimum. No new questions on the new thread. If any questions are asked...they will be ignored. Questions will be directed to this thread.


----------



## michaelsil1

ibanzil said:


> We need to nominate someone to write a revised thread by sorting through all this and cutting the questions and answers down to a minimum. No new questions on the new thread. If any questions are asked...they will be ignored. Questions will be directed to this thread.


Okay, I nominate you.


----------



## ibanzil

Cool^^^^i vote Michaelsil1 1st to 3 votes wins! Lol


----------



## Technic

ibanzil said:


> We need to nominate someone to write a revised thread by sorting through all this and cutting the questions and answers down to a minimum. No new questions on the new thread. If any questions are asked...they will be ignored. Questions will be directed to this thread.


This is more than simple... for anybody thinking about getting this processor, just get the bit one*.1*. Any other version could have too many issues to handle. 

That's the revised _post_.


----------



## michaelsil1

Technic said:


> This is more than simple... for anybody thinking about getting this processor, just get the bit one*.1*. Any other version could have too many issues to handle.
> 
> That's the revised _post_.


He made this so simple.


----------



## ibanzil

U say that but there will still be questions that have already been discussed time and time again b/c 62 pages can make you go blind.


----------



## diegoejea

If you are going to keep this thread for questions...  Please help me!
Do you recomend me to buy the BitOne.1 to use it by a digital input? Does anybody know if it work flawlessly this way? Both optical and coaxial work perfectly?

Thanks guys, please, some help.

By the way, I think to use the BitOne through RCA is to waste the capabilities of it, so this question about digital input should be important.

Thanks a lot


----------



## Buzzman

diegoejea said:


> If you are going to keep this thread for questions...  Please help me!
> Do you recomend me to buy the BitOne.1 to use it by a digital input? Does anybody know if it work flawlessly this way? Both optical and coaxial work perfectly?


YES! YES! YES! 




diegoejea said:


> By the way, I think to use the BitOne through RCA is to waste the capabilities of it . . .


Not true. Listen and you shall believe. 



Thanks a lot[/QUOTE]


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

diegoejea said:


> If you are going to keep this thread for questions...  Please help me!
> Do you recomend me to buy the BitOne.1 to use it by a digital input? Does anybody know if it work flawlessly this way? Both optical and coaxial work perfectly?
> 
> Thanks guys, please, some help.
> 
> By the way, I think to use the BitOne through RCA is to waste the capabilities of it, so this question about digital input should be important.
> 
> Thanks a lot


Yes there are people using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all.

Competition Car Audio Forum


----------



## bbfoto

diegoejea,

Let me just say that I have not owned any version of the Bit One processors, but from what I have read here in the 1550 posts to date, it seems that most people who are using the Digital Coaxial OR Digital Optical Inputs are experiencing a slightly higher noise floor than the people who are using the standard Analog RCA Inputs. This is true even with the latest version of the Bit One, which is the "Bit One.1" with the updated PCB, or circuit board. This means that there is slightly more "hiss" like Pink or White Noise in the background which you mostly hear during a silent section of music, or between tracks, etc. and even when no source is connected but the Digital Input is selected on the DRC. With the latest-version Bit One.1, most people using the RCA Analog Inputs say that it is now "Dead Quiet". This is assuming that they do not have any other noise issues with the unit, such as Alternator Whine or the DRC digital "morse code/beeping".

Those of you who are active in this Thread and actually Own and Use this unit please correct me if I am wrong, but ONLY post if you have the latest Bit One.1, AND have actually tested the Digital Inputs as opposed to the Analog Inputs.

I'm going to wait until all of the older version stock has been COMPLETELY sold and only the latest Bit One.1 version is available with the actual updated PCB. It seems at the moment that you just can't trust the Dealers or Audison to send you the lastest version even if you specifically request it. 

There are so many of the older "v1" & "S" units out there that are being returned by everyone (probably 80% ?) that Audison is just sending them back out for sale or as a "replacement" unit with "fixes" or "patches", and it's a crap shoot, but we all know that the real problems are with the old hardware/PCB's and components. I don't even own one yet and I'm pissed off, lol!

IMO, Audison should just scrap the old units and save their reputations regarding these units. They're just developing more and more of a bad reputation and creating a downward-spiraling, vicious circle for themselves. If I was an Audison rep or dealer, I would be pulling my hair out as this point, and it's sad but it seems that most of the owners of the units in this thread have come to that point AT LEAST ONCE! 

I'd like a show of hands if you have kept your Original Bit One (have not had to return or exchange your unit at all) and also have not had ANY issues with it whatsoever (other than installation-related problems or user error.)


----------



## muntos

Well on 05.05.2009 I received confirmation from Elettromedia that my unit will be replaced (I was complaining about floor noise on Optical Digital output).
Now after 2 months I didn't received anything, only apologies for any inconveniences...
My last email conversation was like this :
*
Dear Alex,
we fully understand your feeling !! We really apologise for this inconvenient and we are realy sorry for that.
Please accept our apologises.
We are managing in this moment a shipment in Romania and we wanted to include this part in the same shipment.
Please let me know if now the priority of this part for you is really URGENT. If yes we will deliver directely to you.
If you can wait another couple of weeks we will send all with the same shipment in Romania.
Just let me know and we will organise all accordingly.
Many thanks and BE SURE YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED WITH US !! BE SURE!
Best regards,
**********

My answer was, on the same day, 25.06.09

*Hi ******,

This is not really urgent as the vacation is coming, I can postpone my setup a couple of weeks, but not more than one month, maximum 5 weeks.
In exchange of this I want to have the confirmation that the shipped unit will be the new revision of Bitone, Bitone.1 as I understood it was named and I will not have any problems that require another replacement.
Please let me know if this arrangement suites you also.

Regards,
Alex
*


I didn't received any confirmation for what I was asked :laugh:
The conclusion...I let you dear members draw it...


----------



## G-rig

bbfoto said:


> There are so many of the older "v1" & "S" units out there that are being returned by everyone (probably 80% ?) that Audison is just sending them back out for sale or as a "replacement" unit with "fixes" or "patches", and it's a crap shoot, but we all know that the real problems are with the old hardware/PCB's and components. I don't even own one yet and I'm pissed off, lol!


Are you suggesting that Audison may be refurbishing the old units? It's certainly plausible as I received a Bit One.1 and the DRC had the old firmware on the remote but apparently this is so it worked with orig Bit Ones (?). Has anyone had to upgrade their firmware on the remote with a Bit One.1?

As long as it's got a revised PCB in it i guess they can reuse the housing and other bits but i'll never know for sure. Would like to think i do as i don't have any of the other issues such as noise, hiss, morse code etc, but still have the turn on pop only beacuse the HU is always powered and on before the amps turn on.

Also is there actually an audible difference in RCA vs Digital, I'd prefer zero noise but can understand if people were planning on using digital. It's just that i'm not sure you'd hear a difference (I couldn't really on the W502->H701 with optical instead of the AiNet).

Is it worth testing my optical input using a minidisc and toslink?


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> Well on 05.05.2009 I received confirmation from Elettromedia that my unit will be replaced (I was complaining about floor noise on Optical Digital output).
> Now after 2 months I didn't received anything, only apologies for any inconveniences...
> My last email conversation was like this :
> *
> Dear Alex,
> we fully understand your feeling !! We really apologise for this inconvenient and we are realy sorry for that.
> Please accept our apologises.
> We are managing in this moment a shipment in Romania and we wanted to include this part in the same shipment.
> Please let me know if now the priority of this part for you is really URGENT. If yes we will deliver directely to you.
> If you can wait another couple of weeks we will send all with the same shipment in Romania.
> Just let me know and we will organise all accordingly.
> Many thanks and BE SURE YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED WITH US !! BE SURE!
> Best regards,
> **********
> 
> My answer was, on the same day, 25.06.09
> 
> *Hi ******,
> 
> This is not really urgent as the vacation is coming, I can postpone my setup a couple of weeks, but not more than one month, maximum 5 weeks.
> In exchange of this I want to have the confirmation that the shipped unit will be the new revision of Bitone, Bitone.1 as I understood it was named and I will not have any problems that require another replacement.
> Please let me know if this arrangement suites you also.
> 
> Regards,
> Alex
> *
> 
> 
> I didn't received any confirmation for what I was asked :laugh:
> The conclusion...I let you dear members draw it...


Hi Muntos,

Maybe thay wait that will complete test my unit to and find solution for me&you and other users which will use optical input...
We will se what will they find...

Regards, _Dejan_


----------



## diegoejea

Then guys, it was interesting me to make that question, because as it seems, is a great pending problem still...

Good luck with all this. For sure, apart from good words, Audison should reward you with any discount or similar...


----------



## muntos

_Dejan_ said:


> Hi Muntos,
> 
> Maybe thay wait that will complete test my unit to and find solution for me&you and other users which will use optical input...
> We will se what will they find...
> 
> Regards, _Dejan_


He he, do you really think they don't know about this problem or they don't have any unit that manifest these problems and wait for you unit to test it  ?


----------



## less

Biy One point one arrived =) The first thing I read worries me a bit though! It says that when initiating contact with the bit one, the laptop has to be on battery power - then you can swap to your ac adapter. Ooops - my laptop isn't working yet and I was planning on doing my settings with my home pc in the garage until I can get a new mobo in and installed.

Anyone know if this is a show stopper? The last thing I want to do is do something that could mess the B1 up - but for pete's sake... who would have thought you couldn't run ac power while connecting!?

Less


----------



## michaelsil1

less said:


> Biy One point one arrived =) The first thing I read worries me a bit though! It says that when initiating contact with the bit one, the laptop has to be on battery power - then you can swap to your ac adapter. Ooops - my laptop isn't working yet and I was planning on doing my settings with my home pc in the garage until I can get a new mobo in and installed.
> 
> Anyone know if this is a show stopper? The last thing I want to do is do something that could mess the B1 up - but for pete's sake... who would have thought you couldn't run ac power while connecting!?
> 
> Less


I believe you misread; I think it says make sure your Laptop isn't on Battery Power when updating the Bit One firmware.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

michaelsil1 said:


> I believe you misread; I think it says make sure your Laptop isn't on Battery Power when updating the Bit One firmware.


That would be correct. They don't want it on battery power, because it may die as the BitOne is being updated.


----------



## G-rig

How important is it to shut down all programs, turn off the screen savers etc as it suggests when updating the firmware? Does it really matter or are they trying to ensure your notebook doesn't go flat during that period? Surely you can use the notebook when it's plugged in.


----------



## bbfoto

G-rig,

I would think that it is VERY important to temporarily disable all "Power Saving" modes (HDD spin-down), Screen Savers, Sleep or Hibernate modes, Anti-Virus programs, or ANY other process that would INTERRUPT the computer or USB connection during the Update process. This is also why Audison recommends having the AC power supply connected if you are using a laptop or notebook to update the unit.

The process involves "flashing" or writing info to the EPROM or Flash Bios of the Bit One.1 and typically ANYTHING that interrupts this process is BAAAAAADDDDD News! It's the equivalent of having your hard drive crash...your computer will no longer boot up at all.

You could try it and it might work out fine, but after waiting so long and paying so much to finally get an updated Bit One.1, I would not want to take ANY chances that may "Brick" the unit and render it useless. I'd not want to wait for yet another replacement.

Just my Opinion and from my personal experience with updating other similar computer products that incorporate a Flash Bios or EPROMs.

Regarding your "refurbishing" question, it seems that if you are an Existing Customer with a V1- or S-version Bit One, and you obtain an RMA to return your defective unit, Audison is for the most part replacing these with the latest version/updated Bit One.1 units with the new PCB.

However, it seems that they may be (and I Do Not know this for a fact) sending out or "recirculating" the units that have been returned by Exisinting Customers to Dealers or new customers after "refreshing" the returned units and updating them with the latest firmware/software versions and including the separate USB/DCR Decoupler device with them (not changing to the new PCB) in hopes that they will work properly.

But I've read several posts here by people who have received "replacements" that have more problems or issues than their original unit! The customers who receive these "refreshed" units then end up having to return them AGAIN. You would think Audison would just throw in the towell and accept that only the updated PCB Bit One.1 units have the potential to be problem free. IMO, Audison is just creating more work and problems for themselves, and much more grief for their customers.

From what I've read, it seems that only the Existing Customers who have had several replacements, or who have REALLY COMPLAINED about the problems and/or have a solid dealer relationship, are getting the latest version Bit One.1 with the new PCB.

Or I could be totally wrong and am just blowing smoke out of my @zz when I have no authority to claim these things, but that's what I've gathered from all the posts here and on other forums.

So...is there anyone using the Digital Inputs (Optical or Coaxial) on the latest Bit One.1 who have absolutely No Noise Floor or background hiss with the Digital Inputs?


----------



## AVIDEDTR

G-rig said:


> How important is it to shut down all programs, turn off the screen savers etc as it suggests when updating the firmware? Does it really matter or are they trying to ensure your notebook doesn't go flat during that period? Surely you can use the notebook when it's plugged in.


To me it very important to shut off everything that can affect the update.

They are making sure that nothing will try to take control of the software and block its control from being used.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

bbfoto said:


> G-rig,
> So...is there anyone using the Digital Inputs (Optical or Coaxial) on the latest Bit One.1 who have absolutely No Noise Floor or background hiss with the Digital Inputs?


Yes I have no noise floor or background hiss. The only ongoing issue I have is at startup I get data noise until my Headunit sends an optical signal to the bitone. Once my deck and bitone sync up all is well.


----------



## matthewo

sorry this post is just about the setting updates and making changes to the bitone other then firmware

ahh well i have had my laptop battery die while working with the bitone setting updates. it takes about 1 to 2 seconds for the bitone to finalize and i doubt your battery will die at that perfect moment in time. and yet if it does then your settings just wont be saved to the bitone. if you have it saved on the laptop then your good. really you not going to mess up the bitone by having the laptop shutdown while updating, you just are not going to finalize the bitone correctly. if it does happen just reload your bitone once your laptop is charged and you will notice the settings where not saved, then you can reload them. this is not like a firmware update where if you loose power you mess up the whole device.


----------



## AVIDEDTR

I recently shut off my car while logged into the software while controlling the bitone hardware. I lost full control and couldn't log back in.

I found leaving the power off the bitone for 10 minutes allowed me to re-connect to the hardware.

*TIP* _Finalize to the bitone and/or exit the software safely before removing the USB connection._


----------



## bbfoto

Gotcha matthewo! Thanks for the info. I don't even own one and I'm relieved to hear that!


----------



## matthewo

AVIDEDTR said:


> I recently shut off my car while logged into the software while controlling the bitone hardware. I lost full control and couldn't log back in.
> 
> I found leaving the power off the bitone for 10 minutes allowed me to re-connect to the hardware.
> 
> *TIP* _Finalize to the bitone and/or exit the software safely before removing the USB connection._


hmm, happened to me, but all i did was disconnect the usb then reconnect it and restart the software and connect again.


----------



## G-rig

bbfoto said:


> G-rig,
> 
> I would think that it is VERY important to temporarily disable all "Power Saving" modes (HDD spin-down), Screen Savers, Sleep or Hibernate modes, Anti-Virus programs, or ANY other process that would INTERRUPT the computer or USB connection during the Update process. This is also why Audison recommends having the AC power supply connected if you are using a laptop or notebook to update the unit.


Yes, i did actually do this as per the DRC upgrade instructions just in case, as i can imagine how important it is not to interrupt it. I still think it's a precautionary measure for those who do have the wrong settings ie hibernate/shutdown etc and for really old PCs that may struggle.




> However, it seems that they may be (and I Do Not know this for a fact) sending out or "recirculating" the units that have been returned by Exisinting Customers to Dealers or new customers after "refreshing" the returned units and updating them with the latest firmware/software versions and including the separate USB/DCR Decoupler device with them (not changing to the new PCB) in hopes that they will work properly.


I really hope this is not the case after waiting for so long, and seems like there is no real way to know for sure - the sticker on the unit would be easy enough to repack, and RMA claims that all the problems were solved with the 1.5 software so hard to say. I shouldn't really be getting the turn on pop. 

Will try disconnecting the RCA's perhaps, leaving only the remote wire to see if its the amps causing it. 

They have suggested to reflash the Bit One.1 to 1.5 but i shouldn't have to if it came from the factory.

Regards,


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bbfoto said:


> G-rig,
> 
> So...is there anyone using the Digital Inputs (Optical or Coaxial) on the latest Bit One.1 who have absolutely No Noise Floor or background hiss with the Digital Inputs?




http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/777269-post1551.html


----------



## michaelsil1

If the Computer dies while updating the firmware to the Bit One you're screwed!

Anyone who has flashed a Computer Bios knows if it goes wrong you have a big problem; it's the same with the Bit One.


----------



## _Dejan_

michaelsil1 said:


> If the Computer dies while updating the firmware to the Bit One you're screwed!
> 
> Anyone who has flashed a Computer Bios knows if it goes wrong you have a big problem; it's the same with the Bit One.


On PC you can do HotFlash  What on Bit one can't(I think) without flasher tool...


----------



## less

Do you HAVE to set up the unit using the analog inputs first - assigning one of the analog inputs as the main or master input? I plan on using a digital connection from my media player for my main source. In reading the manual it looks like I have to do the setup and designate an analog input as main. Does it really make any difference though - which is designated what? I could always use the analog out from the media player or my ipod for that matter - then just select to monitor the digi in (and tear off the nob haha).

BTW - I don't know if everyone is getting one, but the unit I ordered was shipped on June 28th and is a BitOne point One, according to the outer packaging and the serial number tag. No idea if this made a difference, but I told the dealer that I wouldn't leave the store with a regular Bit One. I really didn't like that it was opened already when I picked it up though. Of course, it was the first the dealer had seen and he said he wanted to look it over. Maybe they actually tested it at Elletro media before delivering it too and that would be fine. It looks nice... very solid feeling unit and I like that a lot! 

I could use an analog out from the media player if needed, or perhaps connect my ipods analog out if needed. In the long run I figured I'd pick up a decent value standard hu for those times where I wanted to listen to someone elses CD or checking the weather on the radio - but I don't want to do that right away if I can avoid it - bucks are tight and rewiring the car for the B1 is going to add some extra expense too! 



michaelsil1 said:


> I believe you misread; I think it says make sure your Laptop isn't on Battery Power when updating the Bit One firmware.


Erm... well this is what it says verbatim in the REVISION 02/ Bit One INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE (a single page color insert included in the box:

"1) Bit One connection to a PC laptop via a USB cable
-When connecting a PC laptop via a USB cable to the Bit One being the device turned on, the laptop has to work with its own battery, keeping it disconnected from the mains adapter (external power supply). Once the connection between the PC laptop and the Bit One is estabilshed, you can immediately connect the computer, if necessary, through the mains adapter."​


> Yes I have no noise floor or background hiss. The only ongoing issue I have is at startup I get data noise until my Headunit sends an optical signal to the bitone. Once my deck and bitone sync up all is well.


Thank goodness for you! This is simply critical for me, so I hope they have it worked out with the Bit One point One.


----------



## michaelsil1

less said:


> Erm... well this is what it says verbatim in the REVISION 02/ Bit One INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE (a single page color insert included in the box:
> 
> "1) Bit One connection to a PC laptop via a USB cable
> -When connecting a PC laptop via a USB cable to the Bit One being the device turned on, the laptop has to work with its own battery, keeping it disconnected from the mains adapter (external power supply). Once the connection between the PC laptop and the Bit One is estabilshed, you can immediately connect the computer, if necessary, through the mains adapter."​


*Updating Bit One Firmware*
Recommended precautions:
*a. If the update is being performed using a laptop, you have to connect it to the PC through the
mains supply and not through the laptop battery.*
b. Close any currently running program before launching the firmware update procedure.
*c. Make sure that the Bit One is supplied in a continuous and stable way, at least during firmware
update: check if the power supply and the remote in connections are correctly working, and if
power is supplied in a continuous and stable way.*
d. Connect the Bit One to the PC using the USB cable supplied with the product.
e. Turn on the Bit One by using one of the Remote In contacts.


----------



## ErinH

Less, you can use any aux source you wish to setup the bit one initially. I used a home dvd player to set mine up in the house.


----------



## quality_sound

less said:


> Erm... well this is what it says verbatim in the REVISION 02/ Bit One INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE (a single page color insert included in the box:
> 
> "1) Bit One connection to a PC laptop via a USB cable
> -When connecting a PC laptop via a USB cable to the Bit One being the device turned on, the laptop has to work with its own battery, keeping it disconnected from the mains adapter (external power supply). Once the connection between the PC laptop and the Bit One is estabilshed, you can immediately connect the computer, if necessary, through the mains adapter."​





michaelsil1 said:


> *Updating Bit One Firmware*
> Recommended precautions:
> *a. If the update is being performed using a laptop, you have to connect it to the PC through the
> mains supply and not through the laptop battery.*
> b. Close any currently running program before launching the firmware update procedure.
> *c. Make sure that the Bit One is supplied in a continuous and stable way, at least during firmware
> update: check if the power supply and the remote in connections are correctly working, and if
> power is supplied in a continuous and stable way.*
> d. Connect the Bit One to the PC using the USB cable supplied with the product.
> e. Turn on the Bit One by using one of the Remote In contacts.


You guys are talking about different things. Less is doing intial setup, not updating, Michael. The process is a little different for both operations.


----------



## michaelsil1

michaelsil1 said:


> I believe you misread; I think it says make sure your Laptop isn't on Battery Power *when updating the Bit One firmware*.





quality_sound said:


> You guys are talking about different things. Less is doing intial setup, not updating, Michael. The process is a little different for both operations.


I thought I stated very clearly the Bit One Firmware.


----------



## quality_sound

You did, but that's not relevant to his question since he's doing intial setup, NOT updating.


----------



## michaelsil1

quality_sound said:


> You did, but that's not relevant to his question since he's doing intial setup, NOT updating.


I know, but he referenced what I said and seemed a little confused. :heart:


Let the party continue. epper:


----------



## less

Lol! Sorry for the confusion and yes I was confused... both by the manuals statement and by the response saying I'd read it wrong. Still though - I can't exactly unplug my desktop and run it on battery power to do the initialization now can I??!! The only reason I would suspect that they'd ask to go on battery only would be possible ac noise interference... and while that might lead to a failure to initialize, it would do any actual damage would it?

Until I'm 100% sure this bugger is a working unit - I don't want to drop the money on repairing or buying a new laptop, and the manual says you need a computer - not a laptop computer - to do the setup and adjustments.

Any reason not to take the chance? 

I'm getting excited and anxious to hear this guy, but I've got a lot of set up prep to do and some rewiring as well. No way am I going to test it out until I have time to make even my initial test connections 100% safe. So, it will probably be this weekend before I get to set it up and hear it!

Has anyone else done comparisons and rated the sound quality alone of the Bit One compared to: Alpines H701 & 900, P9 Combo, the Zapco or the Clarion? 

Less


----------



## michaelsil1

I thought a Laptop was a Computer.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

less said:


> Has anyone else done comparisons and rated the sound quality alone of the Bit One compared to: Alpines H701 & 900, P9 Combo, the Zapco or the Clarion?
> 
> Less


I've done a comparison with the first version of BitOne and the DEQ-P9

I did a direct switch between the 2 units with my very first BitOne unit. I did it in a customer mines car. I just ran my Eclipse DDL optical cable from the front to the back, unhooked the DEQ-P9 but the BitOne in its place, booted her up, updated the firmware, went thru the setup process and set the crossover points to where the DEQ-P9 where (yes I wrote them down). No EQing was done and the difference was almost like listening to music outside a jazz club with the door cracked open a little, then opening the door and walking inside. The bit one was just more open and transparent. I didn't care about the features of either at that point the sound improvement was enough for me and the owner of the car. So much so the owner of the want to buy my BitOne on the spot and along with a cable to hook it to his DEX-P9 , then after about 20-30 mins of listening the BitOne started to have very bad engine noise and then the DRC started to flake out. And still after all that the owner of the car still want one, so much so he bought one of my cables and had me install it, so when all the problems are worked out in the BitOne he's going to replace his DEQ-P9 with the BitOne.

I've talked to him and told him the new BitOne.1 is suppose to be problem free. I still have my .1 seating in the closet, no time or Car at the moment to test it. 

But the reports are great on the unit and it's suppose to sound even better then the Original and the "S" model. So he says he will give it a little more time to see what I say in about a month or so, when all the new units have arrived in the US and more people have thier replacement and see what's said then. But I have no doubt that my .1 is a solid unit, as have heard it from to many real user, not people just talking trash about something they have no experience with.

So yes I think the BitOne as for as sound reproduction goes is Superior to the DEQ-P9, but the P9 combo is and will forever be one my favorite combos. One day I hope, sooner then later I will be able to buy another for myself. I kick myself everyday for selling my P9 combo.

Also from install few and DRZ9255's and owning one I think the P9-Combo as whole has a Sightly better sound then the DRZ.

THIS IS IMHO!!!!!


----------



## braves6117

In order of least SQ to Best SQ...

h701 < zapco dsp6 < BitOne Original < BitOne.1


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^^^^^^^^^^potentially


----------



## michaelsil1

braves6117 said:


> In order of least SQ to Best SQ...
> 
> h701 < zapco dsp6 < BitOne Original < BitOne.1


I'm not sure of the number, but I thinks it's the Alpine H-900 I think it should be on your list somewhere.


----------



## braves6117

michaelsil1 said:


> I'm not sure of the number, but I thinks it's the Alpine H-900 I think it should be on your list somewhere.


LOL, I haven't had a chance at using one. I only listed what I've used.


And if I had to list based on User Interfaces....

DSP6<h701<BitOne OG < BitOne.1


----------



## G-rig

What's the point of a notebook computer and portability if you have to plug it in to the mains.

Isn't it just a precautionary measure to make sure the battery doesn't go flat?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

G-rig said:


> Isn't it just a precautionary measure to make sure the battery doesn't go flat?


Yes, you are correct.


----------



## chad

quality_sound said:


> You guys are talking about different things. Less is doing intial setup, not updating, Michael. The process is a little different for both operations.


srsly... what's the difference, why does it have to be that way?


----------



## michaelsil1

chad said:


> srsly... what's the difference, why does it have to be that way?


Because Audison says so. 


You would think that if we did what we were told it would behave.


----------



## chad

Well the second one makes perfect sense, I mean who the hell would load an OS for example on battery power? But to have it unplugged upon initial connection THEN plug it in? What's the deal with that?


----------



## michaelsil1

chad said:


> Well the second one makes perfect sense, I mean who the hell would load an OS for example on battery power? But to have it unplugged upon initial connection THEN plug it in? What's the deal with that?


:shrug:


----------



## ibanzil

any day now, Sloth from the goonies is gonna get a bit1 and show all of us how to fully understand this strange object known as a processor of sound signals. 

I bet the HK/JBL guys look at a thread about the bit1 and piss their pants when thinking about ever putting the ms-8 into production...specially with all the hype.


----------



## bbfoto

Here-I-Come said:


> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/777269-post1551.html
> 
> Yes there are people using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all.


Hey Mark,

I know it seems as though I overlooked it, but I did see your post that is just a few posts ahead of my question. But I was looking for more of a concise count of specific people with the Updated Bit One.1 units that still *Do* or now *Do Not *have a noticeable noise floor using the Digital Inputs, as opposed to "Yes *there are people* using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all."

How many people? Not that it matters really, but who are they? DIYMA peeps, your customers, users on other forums, associates, etc? I just think that it would be nice for everyone here to get a rough estimate of how many units are performing flawlessly, ya know? I'm really hoping that it's the majority, because I know that a lot of us here who are interested in this processor want to utilize the Digital Inputs, but of course I'm also a pessimist, lol, sorry.

I'm REALLY exited that you're using the P9 and have excellent results, because that was my plan as well as soon as I am ready to acquire a Bit One.1 for myself since two of my vehicles currently utilize the P9 combo. The digitizing of the Tuner and AUX input sources and the Digital Volume control is a definite bonus to me as well. 

When I get the Bit One.1, I'm also going to test it with the Sony CDX-C90 optical out, my computer rig using both the sound card optical out and also via the analog outputs via my USB Bloat DAC, and a Pioneer Carrozzeria RS-D7XIII. I'm not really expecting much difference, but you'll never know definitively until you try.

I have always appreciated the extensive and first-hand knowledge that you have shared here on DIYMA and all the other forums!...and I hope that people such as myself don't discourage you from keeping it up!


----------



## bbfoto

ibanzil said:


> any day now, Sloth from the goonies is gonna get a bit1 and show all of us how to fully understand this strange object known as a processor of sound signals.
> 
> I bet the HK/JBL guys look at a thread about the bit1 and piss their pants when thinking about ever putting the ms-8 into production...specially with all the hype.


ibanzil,

As Andy Wehmeyer previously posted, I think that if and when the MS8 does make it to market that there will still be a strong demand and interest in this processor because it offers very unique and powerful features that the Bit One.1 does not.

The end result of using either of these processors in a 2.1 channel environment is very much the same...amazing SQ, Imaging, and Dynamics! However, the process or way each unit goes about achieving this result is VERY different (auto-tuning/microphone calibration/Logic 7/algorithmic multi-layered EQ's, etc. on the MS8 vs. the Bit One's fully-manual and very good but the "basic garden-variety" processing we have been accustomed to for quite a while now). IMO the MS8 would be a much more versatile and powerfull unit especially for OEM interfacing and multi-channel/LRC.1/full Surround systems.

The only things I wish for in the MS8 that are not included in it's "current" version are Digital Optical and Coaxial Inputs, and a wireless RF Controller (DRC) including Remote Volume/Level for the main & subwoofer channels. The UI is very important and could be a deal breaker for many of us. I would be stoked to have the option to control the MS8 via Bluetooth with my iPhone!

I can't help to wonder how much technology has advanced since the MS8 was first introduced though! Unfortunately it seems that it's technology would be "old skool" by the time it is actually released.  I mean, how many Intel processor architectures and Mac & Windows OS's have we been through since it was first announced?!

But you're right, the Bit One.1 is here NOW and is verified to have incredible SQ.  Yes there have been some major hiccups, but it looks like it should be a very solid and reliable unit in the very near future. This makes me a very happy camper!


----------



## efun

On page 8 of the manual:
-----------------------------------------------------
WARNING: the digital input accepts up to 48 kHz / 24
bit stereo PCM signals. So it can’t reproduce DOLBY
DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/
video sources (such as for instance the audio of a
movie in a DVD)
-----------------------------------------------------

Questions:

1) If the audio source is DVD movie, it will be no output by bitone? Possible to force (or convert) the DTS/AC3 audio to stereo PCM? 

2) If it is the 44.1KHZ/16 bits audio source, does bitone match the sample rate and bit depth automatically?


----------



## 14642

bbfoto said:


> ibanzil,
> 
> As Andy Wehmeyer previously posted, I think that if and when the MS8 does make it to market that there will still be a strong demand and interest in this processor because it offers very unique and powerful features that the Bit One.1 does not.


Yes, they are very different. One is a toolbox and the other is a carpenter. 

Of course, once we're finished and the product is released, there will be plenty of posts that indicate that one kicks the ass of the other without any qualification or suggestion that the applications are different in any way or that for some systems and consumers a Bit One.1 is the right product and for others the MS-8 is the right product.

And no, I'm not pissing my pants and neither is anyone else who is working on the project. I'm a little annoyed that it's taken so long, but it is what it is.


----------



## 14642

efun said:


> On page 8 of the manual:
> -----------------------------------------------------
> WARNING: the digital input accepts up to 48 kHz / 24
> bit stereo PCM signals. So it can’t reproduce DOLBY
> DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/
> video sources (such as for instance the audio of a
> movie in a DVD)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1) If the audio source is DVD movie, it will be no output by bitone? Possible to force (or convert) the audio source to stereo PCM?
> 
> 2) If it is the 44.1KHZ/16 bits audio source, does bitone match the freq and bit automatically?


BTW, this is precisely the reason that we didn't include the optical input in MS-8. Too much confusion. A hundred years ago when we started the development, I was getting all kinds of calls and questions about getting a digital signal from iPods, other MP3 players, DVD Audio, SACD, potentially available sample rates, etc. It became obvious that simpler was better. 

FWIW, for many digital EQs that use anything that resembles a multi-tap filter to work properly, the sample rate of the signal has to match the sample rate at which the EQ does its work. That means for all the sample rates that are potentially available to be input into the product except the one that corresponds to the internal rate, there would have to be a real-time conversion for MS-8. I don't know how this is handled in the Bit One or in the Alpine 650 or the RF 360. We chose to make this easy for consumers and the performance will be great. 

If you want to play back movies in 7.1 or 5.1 with MS-8, you'll be able to. Just choose the 2-channel downmix from your DVD player, output left and right to MS-8 via the RCA inputs and Logic 7 will decode it appropriately for a car.


----------



## Buzzman

bbfoto said:


> . . . I was looking for more of a concise count of specific people with the Updated Bit One.1 units that still *Do* or now *Do Not *have a noticeable noise floor using the Digital Inputs, as opposed to "Yes *there are people* using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all."
> 
> How many people? Not that it matters really, but who are they? DIYMA peeps, your customers, users on other forums, associates, etc? I just think that it would be nice for everyone here to get a rough estimate of how many units are performing flawlessly, ya know? . . . .


 If you think you will get valid, verifiable data from any source other than Audison then I have some prime beach property in Nevada I want to sell you.


----------



## quality_sound

chad said:


> srsly... what's the difference, why does it have to be that way?


Like you said, some people probably have no business updating their own firmware and aren't smart enough to know it's not a quick process. Then they start on battery power, get close to dead, plug in the power cord which may or may not interrupt the flash and then they're potentially screwed. 

But I'm with you, I'd just tell everyone to start on AC power.


----------



## quality_sound

A friend of mine, and member here, has a bit One.1 in two of his own cars running optically and there is ZERO noise floor. Dead silent. He's using Toslink for both. 



bbfoto said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> I know it seems as though I overlooked it, but I did see your post that is just a few posts ahead of my question. But I was looking for more of a concise count of specific people with the Updated Bit One.1 units that still *Do* or now *Do Not *have a noticeable noise floor using the Digital Inputs, as opposed to "Yes *there are people* using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all."
> 
> How many people? Not that it matters really, but who are they? DIYMA peeps, your customers, users on other forums, associates, etc? I just think that it would be nice for everyone here to get a rough estimate of how many units are performing flawlessly, ya know? I'm really hoping that it's the majority, because I know that a lot of us here who are interested in this processor want to utilize the Digital Inputs, but of course I'm also a pessimist, lol, sorry.
> 
> I'm REALLY exited that you're using the P9 and have excellent results, because that was my plan as well as soon as I am ready to acquire a Bit One.1 for myself since two of my vehicles currently utilize the P9 combo. The digitizing of the Tuner and AUX input sources and the Digital Volume control is a definite bonus to me as well.
> 
> When I get the Bit One.1, I'm also going to test it with the Sony CDX-C90 optical out, my computer rig using both the sound card optical out and also via the analog outputs via my USB Bloat DAC, and a Pioneer Carrozzeria RS-D7XIII. I'm not really expecting much difference, but you'll never know definitively until you try.
> 
> I have always appreciated the extensive and first-hand knowledge that you have shared here on DIYMA and all the other forums!...and I hope that people such as myself don't discourage you from keeping it up!


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bbfoto said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> I know it seems as though I overlooked it, but I did see your post that is just a few posts ahead of my question. But I was looking for more of a concise count of specific people with the Updated Bit One.1 units that still *Do* or now *Do Not *have a noticeable noise floor using the Digital Inputs, as opposed to "Yes *there are people* using the optical and coaxial inputs with on problems at all."
> 
> How many people? Not that it matters really, but who are they? DIYMA peeps, your customers, users on other forums, associates, etc? I just think that it would be nice for everyone here to get a rough estimate of how many units are performing flawlessly, ya know? I'm really hoping that it's the majority, because I know that a lot of us here who are interested in this processor want to utilize the Digital Inputs, but of course I'm also a pessimist, lol, sorry.
> 
> I'm REALLY exited that you're using the P9 and have excellent results, because that was my plan as well as soon as I am ready to acquire a Bit One.1 for myself since two of my vehicles currently utilize the P9 combo. The digitizing of the Tuner and AUX input sources and the Digital Volume control is a definite bonus to me as well.
> 
> When I get the Bit One.1, I'm also going to test it with the Sony CDX-C90 optical out, my computer rig using both the sound card optical out and also via the analog outputs via my USB Bloat DAC, and a Pioneer Carrozzeria RS-D7XIII. I'm not really expecting much difference, but you'll never know definitively until you try.
> 
> I have always appreciated the extensive and first-hand knowledge that you have shared here on DIYMA and all the other forums!...and I hope that people such as myself don't discourage you from keeping it up!


Man you have some nice units on hand. The reasons you listed is the reasons I have been trying to get another DEX-P9. But seems like every time one comes up for great price I don't have the extra fund to spare.

And know I wasn't trying to be rude or anything, something people just over look small posts. I know I do it sometimes. 

I enjoy testing different products when the funds allow and sharing it with the people on the forums. Sometimes some people get under my skin with thier way of thinking and thinking their way is the only way it can and should be done.

The bad thing is, some are to egotistical to admit that, themselves have the blinders on and are so self indulged in their way of thinking, that no ones else way of thinking is correct, and would rather belittle, then to uplift and that in itself is wrong. 

But, it is what it is and I try to keep my head up and move on.



Andy Wehmeyer said:


> Of course, once we're finished and the product is released, there will be plenty of posts that indicate that one kicks the ass of the other without any qualification or suggestion that the applications are different in any way or that for some systems and consumers a Bit One.1 is the right product and for others the MS-8 is the right product.


Amen to that.


----------



## ibanzil

Wasn't saying the jbl team was pissing themselves from fear of the bit1 being better. I was meaning to say...after looking at a forum occupied by mainly car audio fluent people, there are tons of people havings problems/difficulties with the bit1. Getting at, the jbl guys are probbly trying to work out every conceivable bug knowing what a stir can get caused.

Andy, are you planning on being at the usaci championships?


----------



## G-rig

This is interesting.

My audio specialist shop has done another car with the stock VW Sat Nav unit and high level input into an Arc mini, and no turn on/ignition pop.

There must still be something wrong with how the Bit One treats the signal/turn ons..

I hope i have a new unit, not a refurbished fix.


----------



## efun

efun said:


> On page 8 of the manual:
> -----------------------------------------------------
> WARNING: the digital input accepts up to 48 kHz / 24
> bit stereo PCM signals. So it can’t reproduce DOLBY
> DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/
> video sources (such as for instance the audio of a
> movie in a DVD)
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1) If the audio source is DVD movie, it will be no output by bitone? Possible to force (or convert) the DTS/AC3 audio to stereo PCM?
> 
> 2) If it is the 44.1KHZ/16 bits audio source, does bitone match the sample rate and bit depth automatically?


Take from SPDIF wiki: 
"S/PDIF is used to transmit digital signals of a number of formats, the most common being the 48 kHz sample rate format used in DAT, and the 44.1 kHz format used in CD audio. In order to support both systems, as well as others that might be needed, the format has no defined data rate. Instead the data is sent using Biphase mark code, which has either one or two transitions for every bit, allowing *the original word clock to be extracted from the signal itself.*"


To use SPDIF, the source device with a high quality clock is much important, unless bitone has re-clock function which means bitone buffer the signal first then process the signal use its own clock.


----------



## diegoejea

Hi Guys! Do you know why my post are always being rejected automatically? It could make us think that somehow, somebody doesn´t want we from Spain talk about issues of bitone. The point is here there are a lot of Issues and no answers. In Spain there is like a discussion about it.

Best Regards


----------



## less

efun said:


> Questions:
> 
> 1) If the audio source is DVD movie, it will be no output by bitone? Possible to force (or convert) the DTS/AC3 audio to stereo PCM?
> 
> 2) If it is the 44.1KHZ/16 bits audio source, does bitone match the sample rate and bit depth automatically?


This might help a bit - I run a digital media player into a Clarion DRZ at the moment. The DRZ will not decode DTS or Dolby digital either (well it might if I'd bought the device to connect it to, but under normal conditions it won't), and it occassionally rejects the signal I send to it from a movie. On the other hand, probabaly 8-% of the time, it accepts the 48khz/24 bit rate that is common on dvd audio tracks and play it fine. 

Depending on your output device, if you are playing a DVD/VOB/ISO file, you are often able to select a PCM (WAV) output format that the Bit One should play without issue... you just need to do this prior to attempting to play the file. This is somewhat dependent on the source disc as well as some have alternate audio outputs and others don't. Also, with the media player I am using, you can simply use its analog outputs to monitor the audio if the digital signal doesn't work with the bit one. 

IIRC, the bit ones capability should allow us to play HDCD - XRCD - General DVD and other high quality disc formats with no issue. It seems like DVD-A formats are done at 96k though - and if so, those won't work. I'll be testing my bit one out for the first time this weekend and will try to remember to convert some dvd-a tracks for testing - and will report back.

Lastly, most devices that play dvd files have companion devices or allow the connection of some sort of device that will process DTS - DD files and provide an output type that the B1 would process fine in either analog or digital format. Naturally, this adds expense and more mess to your system, but if you just REALLY need to play these files and enjoy the theatre sound experience, they could provide a solution.


----------



## Technic

G-rig said:


> This is interesting.
> 
> My audio specialist shop has done another car with the stock VW Sat Nav unit and high level input into an Arc mini, and no turn on/ignition pop.
> 
> There must *still be something wrong with how the Bit One treats the signal/turn ons..*
> 
> I hope i have a new unit, not a refurbished fix.


Some Alpine MRP amps with high level inputs also have the turn on pop while connected to any of the VW MKV/Passat B6/Eos OEM HU (Nav or not) directly. 

Using a separate passive/active LOC eliminates the turn on pop. What is really weird is that there is absolutely no pop when the VW OEM HU turns on connected directly to speakers.

I think that the issue is how this high level conversion circuitry in these devices deal with this particular initial high level pulse/pop of these VW OEM HU, not necessarily that something is particulary wrong with either the bit one or these Alpine MRP amps.


----------



## less

*FIRMWARE/DRC FIRMWARE/SOFTWARE Question:*

I picked my B1 up two days ago, and I also downloaded all of the files on the elletromedia site. I see their appears to be three types of upgrades - not including updated manuals, and I just want to be sure I have the latest and greatest installed. 

SOFTWARE: Just install the latest version from the web, right?

DRC (digital remote control) FIRMWARE: How will i know if I need to install this? Will the software show me which firmware version for the DRC that is installed?

NORMAL FIRMWARE: Safe to assume that the firmware version I currently have will be easily found during the initialization process? 

GENERAL BITCHES: Granted, once I've done this one time, most of this stuff will no longer be any kind of issue, but wow!
1. Do we really need 5 manuals and a FAQ? Holy ****e!
2. Tell us our firmware/drc/software versions that are on our system when we buy it? I don't know if I need 3 updates - or none
3. Could an English prof (hell a student would do!) proof these manuals to eliminate the sentences that are far harder to grasp due to their structure and grammar?
4. Why no dates on the web updates so we can tell how old they are?
5. Could we just get a single page with all the Enlish update links? No need for all the pop up pages which are just messy and a pita.
6. Sorry folks - but stuff like this drives me nut and it doesn't have to be half this complicated! /rant off



> How many people? Not that it matters really, but who are they? DIYMA peeps, your customers, users on other forums, associates, etc? I just think that it would be nice for everyone here to get a rough estimate of how many units are performing flawlessly, ya know? I'm really hoping that it's the majority, because I know that a lot of us here who are interested in this processor want to utilize the Digital Inputs, but of course I'm also a pessimist, lol, sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck friend. I tried to ask this over the past months and even posted a seperate thread - you aren't likely to get what you want for some reason. I ended up just taking the chance based on a couple trusted peoples input but still had messages from a lot of folks telling me not to do it - and different issues that others who owned them told me weren't troubles for them. Its terribly confusing honestly... I suggest trusting those people who you have some real reason to trust, then ignore the rest... even though they are trying to help. (I'm not referring to anyone who wrote me in the following statement but rather about an all around mindset that I've come to after being active here for a few years) You need to meet a few folks here, listen to what they think sounds good - judge from their experience in competitions if possible, and use other factors to qualify who you are getting input from. There are a lot of really nice people in forums like this - but they all come with a different set of ears and different listening tastes - and often STRONG opinions that just won't match with yours!
> 
> Don't get me wrong either! I've gotten a wealth of very good information from people I didn't even know at all and am very thankful for them. It My system wouldn't be what it is without them and I'd have probably had to pay someone for something I learned to do myself. But, in getting "BUY" decision information, you can end up going nuts if you listen to everyone!
> 
> I'll be posting my experience with my "brand new" bit one.1 after I install it this weekend. Feel free to write me if you have any questions and I'll be happy to add more confusing info to your thought process lol!
> 
> 
> 
> I mean who the hell would load an OS for example on battery power? But to have it unplugged upon initial connection THEN plug it in? What's the deal with that? CHAD
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking! Now, I have to either break their rules (since I'm not buying a laptop until I know I am keeping this and not my DRZ) and use my desktop with AC power connected, or I need to find someone who will lend me their laptop for a few days... and who wants to lend out their computer??? This is just wierd and annoying!

I REALLY hope this bugger sounds great... because if it really does, I'll work around everything else. I love the dynamic EQ feature and have wanted something like this for years! I also like the fact that it can start up my entire system in a number of different ways... I'm going to use just the DRC for turn on personally - then run the remote out to my relay box to turn on both amps and my media player so its a one button and go deal! I listen to a lot of music and watch movies in the car over lunch and little things like that make my day.

Oh, one more bummer! My wonderfull locking, copper core nice looking ViaBLUE rca plugs don't fit in the Bit one shroud!!!! GRRR! So, I'll either modify the bugger or end up selling my current great analog rca runs! (Canare star quad -13ft, two channels per run, wrapped in gray and black woven via blue version of tech flex (much nice looking), VIA Blue rcas and silver solder - if anyone is interested). 


Enough blah blah blah - thank all for your help over all these years!

Jim/Less


----------



## ErinH

less said:


> 1. Do we really need 5 manuals and a FAQ? Holy ****e!



Look at all the questions asked about this unit. Look at what you’re doing right now and look back at your previous posts asking about this unit… there’s your answer. 

To answer the rest quickly:



less said:


> *FIRMWARE/DRC FIRMWARE/SOFTWARE Question:*
> 
> I picked my B1 up two days ago, and I also downloaded all of the files on the elletromedia site. I see their appears to be three types of upgrades - not including updated manuals, and I just want to be sure I have the latest and greatest installed.
> 
> SOFTWARE: Just install the latest version from the web, right?
> 
> DRC (digital remote control) FIRMWARE: How will i know if I need to install this? Will the software show me which firmware version for the DRC that is installed?
> 
> NORMAL FIRMWARE: Safe to assume that the firmware version I currently have will be easily found during the initialization process?
> 
> GENERAL BITCHES: Granted, once I've done this one time, most of this stuff will no longer be any kind of issue, but wow!
> 1. Do we really need 5 manuals and a FAQ? Holy ****e!
> 2. Tell us our firmware/drc/software versions that are on our system when we buy it? I don't know if I need 3 updates - or none
> 3. Could an English prof (hell a student would do!) proof these manuals to eliminate the sentences that are far harder to grasp due to their structure and grammar?
> 4. Why no dates on the web updates so we can tell how old they are?
> 5. Could we just get a single page with all the Enlish update links? No need for all the pop up pages which are just messy and a pita.
> 6. Sorry folks - but stuff like this drives me nut and it doesn't have to be half this complicated! /rant off
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what I was thinking! Now, I have to either break their rules (since I'm not buying a laptop until I know I am keeping this and not my DRZ) and use my desktop with AC power connected, or I need to find someone who will lend me their laptop for a few days... and who wants to lend out their computer??? This is just wierd and annoying!
> 
> I REALLY hope this bugger sounds great... because if it really does, I'll work around everything else. I love the dynamic EQ feature and have wanted something like this for years! I also like the fact that it can start up my entire system in a number of different ways... I'm going to use just the DRC for turn on personally - then run the remote out to my relay box to turn on both amps and my media player so its a one button and go deal! I listen to a lot of music and watch movies in the car over lunch and little things like that make my day.
> 
> Oh, one more bummer! My wonderfull locking, copper core nice looking ViaBLUE rca plugs don't fit in the Bit one shroud!!!! GRRR! So, I'll either modify the bugger or end up selling my current great analog rca runs! (Canare star quad -13ft, two channels per run, wrapped in gray and black woven via blue version of tech flex (much nice looking), VIA Blue rcas and silver solder - if anyone is interested).
> 
> 
> Enough blah blah blah - thank all for your help over all these years!
> 
> Jim/Less


2. When you start the bit one up you’ll know right away. It’ll tell you on the software. Yea, it stinks you have to do that, but if you’re going to update it anyway, you’ll have to fire it up regardless. Such is life. There are MULTIPLE patches for numerous OS’s. You never know how up to date your software is for you computer. We just update it if it needs it… only way we know if it needs it is by firing it up. That’s how this stuff just goes.

3. Agreed.

4. Novel idea. Write Audison about it. But, they do list the rev number (ie: firmware 1.5). That’s enough for me. 

5. Agreed. 

6. A lot of people are making this much more complicated than it really needs to be. Quite honestly I regret ever starting this stupid thread… however I do believe some good has come of it in regards to lighting a fire under Audison’s butt. J


I don’t understand what the big deal about setting this thing up is about. You need to have constant power for a firmware upgrade… not to update your settings. It’s simple as that. If you lose power for some reason (ie: battery fails) during a firmware update you are SOL! THAT’s why Audison says not to set up the firmware off battery power. This really isn’t rocket science. In fact, if we’d all take a step back from this ridiculous thread and posts that seem to be merry-go-round redundant (hey, I saw that guy a second ago… hey, there he is again… hey… again!) we’d realize that it isn’t that hard.

You don’t have a laptop?... well, guess you need to use a desktop. You don’t HAVE to have a laptop to tune or set this thing up. You do need a computer. A laptop is convenient. Hell, if it weren’t so hard you could throw you desktop in your car if you really wanted to, run the AC line out of your car and into your house and go to town. You can even make settings with the AC power connected. Again, IT DOESN’T MATTER. You just DO NOT need to be running a firmware upgrade off battery power. It’s simple. I have left my laptop plugged in while changing settings on the bitone and not had any issues. 

Regarding your RCAs, Jim, that sucks, but I guess you’ll just have to find something else to work with the bit one. I personally haven’t had trouble with any of my multiple RCAs fitting the bit one’s preouts. 


If I could, I would delete t his entire thread, make a new post and say the following:
“Don’t buy any bitone other than the bitone.1. If you do you’ll have noise of some sort, period. If someone doesn’t then they’re the object Eddie Murphy is hunting (the golden child). “
^ there’s one problem solved.

I’d then add:
“Yep, the manual sucks. The description regarding the remote turn on/power connections to the bit one are unclear. Use the remote turn on as you would any other processor if you’re running aftermarket. Use the ‘key switch’ options if you’re running factory/OEM headunit.”


Hate to sound like a jerk, and Jim, this isn’t targeted directly at you, but this thread is so full of fluff it’s just aggravating me to see the same stuff over and over, and people complaining about things that really aren’t a problem with the product; rather a problem with their understanding. I believe people are just letting themselves become overwhelmed. The firmware updates take all of 2 minutes. I’ve performed a total of 4 of them on the previous units and never had issues. It’s really not that hard… don’t think so hard, fellas.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Look at all the questions asked about this unit. Look at what you’re doing right now and look back at your previous posts asking about this unit… there’s your answer.
> 
> To answer the rest quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 2. When you start the bit one up you’ll know right away. It’ll tell you on the software. Yea, it stinks you have to do that, but if you’re going to update it anyway, you’ll have to fire it up regardless. Such is life. There are MULTIPLE patches for numerous OS’s. You never know how up to date your software is for you computer. We just update it if it needs it… only way we know if it needs it is by firing it up. That’s how this stuff just goes.
> 
> 3. Agreed.
> 
> 4. Novel idea. Write Audison about it. But, they do list the rev number (ie: firmware 1.5). That’s enough for me.
> 
> 5. Agreed.
> 
> 6. A lot of people are making this much more complicated than it really needs to be. Quite honestly I regret ever starting this stupid thread… however I do believe some good has come of it in regards to lighting a fire under Audison’s butt. J
> 
> 
> I don’t understand what the big deal about setting this thing up is about. You need to have constant power for a firmware upgrade… not to update your settings. It’s simple as that. If you lose power for some reason (ie: battery fails) during a firmware update you are SOL! THAT’s why Audison says not to set up the firmware off battery power. This really isn’t rocket science. In fact, if we’d all take a step back from this ridiculous thread and posts that seem to be merry-go-round redundant (hey, I saw that guy a second ago… hey, there he is again… hey… again!) we’d realize that it isn’t that hard.
> 
> You don’t have a laptop?... well, guess you need to use a desktop. You don’t HAVE to have a laptop to tune or set this thing up. You do need a computer. A laptop is convenient. Hell, if it weren’t so hard you could throw you desktop in your car if you really wanted to, run the AC line out of your car and into your house and go to town. You can even make settings with the AC power connected. Again, IT DOESN’T MATTER. You just DO NOT need to be running a firmware upgrade off battery power. It’s simple. I have left my laptop plugged in while changing settings on the bitone and not had any issues.
> 
> Regarding your RCAs, Jim, that sucks, but I guess you’ll just have to find something else to work with the bit one. I personally haven’t had trouble with any of my multiple RCAs fitting the bit one’s preouts.
> 
> 
> If I could, I would delete t his entire thread, make a new post and say the following:
> “Don’t buy any bitone other than the bitone.1. If you do you’ll have noise of some sort, period. If someone doesn’t then they’re the object Eddie Murphy is hunting (the golden child). “
> ^ there’s one problem solved.
> 
> I’d then add:
> “Yep, the manual sucks. The description regarding the remote turn on/power connections to the bit one are unclear. Use the remote turn on as you would any other processor if you’re running aftermarket. Use the ‘key switch’ options if you’re running factory/OEM headunit.”
> 
> 
> Hate to sound like a jerk, and Jim, this isn’t targeted directly at you, but this thread is so full of fluff it’s just aggravating me to see the same stuff over and over, and people complaining about things that really aren’t a problem with the product; rather a problem with their understanding. I believe people are just letting themselves become overwhelmed. The firmware updates take all of 2 minutes. I’ve performed a total of 4 of them on the previous units and never had issues. It’s really not that hard… don’t think so hard, fellas.


Holy Hell, (sorry)

x100,000,000,000


----------



## ibanzil

All hail BIKIN! Speaker of truth!

Things are getting even more outa hand with the foreigners coming to this thread like a audison refugee...nothing against em but sometimes gets confusing.


----------



## michaelsil1

ibanzil said:


> *All hail BIKIN!* Speaker of truth!
> 
> Things are getting even more outa hand with the foreigners coming to this thread like a audison refugee...nothing against em but sometimes gets confusing.


In defense of Audison; they have addressed the known issues in a timely manner.

New Computer Technology doesn't always work the way it was intended at first; hopefully it doesn't take too long to work out all the bugs.


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^. I haven't had any problems with my b1.1. Audison has done good....Bikin said it right though, the facts have been stated.


----------



## G-rig

Technic said:


> Some Alpine MRP amps with high level inputs also have the turn on pop while connected to any of the VW MKV/Passat B6/Eos OEM HU (Nav or not) directly.
> 
> Using a separate passive/active LOC eliminates the turn on pop. What is really weird is that there is absolutely no pop when the VW OEM HU turns on connected directly to speakers.
> 
> I think that the issue is how this high level conversion circuitry in these devices deal with this particular initial high level pulse/pop of these VW OEM HU, not necessarily that something is particulary wrong with either the bit one or these Alpine MRP amps.


Apparently the RMA Jetta isn't making the pop, but assume they are using Audison amps (and the AD LINK + AC LINK) which may be the reason. They haven't said much else about how they wired it up.

Actually my PC does the same thing ever since enabling ASIO and there a little pop as the powered speakers are already on.

I think it's something i could live with as long as it doesn't hurt the speakers or anything else but the shop is still going to do a few other tests. I dont know if using the key or mem remotes would help but shouldn't be needed.


----------



## quality_sound

Greg, you're using high level inputs to turn the unit on so the Key Mem or Mem Remotes aren't being used. I will keep you updates if I find an S-Contact wire for the MkV. It shoudl solve the pop issue and it won't be on all the time when he HDD is.


----------



## less

bikinpunk said:


> Hate to sound like a jerk, and Jim, this isn’t targeted directly at you, but this thread is so full of fluff it’s just aggravating me to see the same stuff over and over, and people complaining about things that really aren’t a problem with the product; rather a problem with their understanding. I believe people are just letting themselves become overwhelmed. The firmware updates take all of 2 minutes. I’ve performed a total of 4 of them on the previous units and never had issues. It’s really not that hard… don’t think so hard, fellas.


Is it possible that someone who has been involved with the Bit one drama like a page turner book since day one, might have a different level of understanding and expectation regarding the unit than someone who dropped in a read a bit here and there - then went ahead and bought one when things seemed to have smoothed out? I'm sure its easier than what it appears, but there are some really stupid things still apparent in the manuals. *Many don't seem to read things well* Example: my laptop - desktop statement from a previous post. Many (including you Bikin) missed the point that audisons manual says that you have to *disconnect *your unit from power and run on battery when initializing. (hello!) So, I have two basic choices: 1. initialize it from my desktop with it connected to ac power -or-2. buy a laptop now so I can follow the manual. Sure, no big deal, probably nothing will come of it - but what if? That was the single point I was making... others pointed out that they thought I'd read it wrong - when in fact they were incorrect as you were in your comments about it.

You know, I hate this post too, but I do appreciate the advice I was offered. It has gotten out of hand. I've always tried to share as much helpful information here as I ask in return, but I think I'll pass on posting here - whether helpful or otherwise and just troll for a while. It isn't really the friendly helpful sort of place I used to enjoy anymore. In this thread for example: I can't imagine anyone seriuosly thinking that throwing 6 manuals out there is better than just doing one that is correct and shows the appropriate sequence clearly. Bikin, if you HONESTLY think they did a good job communicating what to do to a first-time user, I want some of whatever it is that you are smoking and I may be willing to drive to bo Alabamy or wherever it is you are to get it!:laugh:

I've been building electronics - power amps, preamps, vu meters, relay systems, a lot of electronics for over 30 years -and- I've been working with PCs since the 286 working in DOS etc. So while I may sound like a moron who can't figure out what to do with the bit one, I was really just expressing that this is the single worst set of documentation I've ever seen - period. And, you are right, it doesn't have to be confusing at all. 

Instead of posting my bitches here though, and sharing some issues with people who I generally looked upon as friends, in the future I'll just send a letter to audison in the future. They've shown willingness to change and are learning a lot through this release - and i respect that they've listened quite well. 

*I apologize for creating part of that drama - for anyone who cares. * As a believer in karma, I probably got something I had coming here, for posting some frustration I have with this set up system, but at least I'm a person posting about an actual purchase. I also believe that what comes around, goes around too.

Thanks to those kind and humble folks who've been very helpful! 

Jim/Less


----------



## ErinH

Jim, I think I've been more than helpful to you in the past so don't let my one rant about this entire thread become a personal attack at you.

To answer a few things:
no I don't think the manual is the easiest to read. Mainly due to translation. I agreed with you already.

The part about computers... it's simple. Nothing to argue here. You do a firmware upgrade with constant power. This is easy. I believe you know this; especially given that you have some PC building background as you noted above. I don't think you're a moron and I NEVER said or even alluded to that, so please don't take my words as anything more than what I've said. My post was in regards to how, IMO, some people have made this whole process much harder on themselves. As far as you having to buy a laptop, I believe that's extreme. I see no reason why you would have to go to that length. No matter what the manual may or may not say. This is where your own judgement comes into play.

You said you were just expressing your frustrations... I understand that. But I took your post literally and didn't at once think you were just ranting hypothetically. I truly took every point you made as a legitimate argument/complaint you have about the bitone, so I then responded by breaking the replies down just as you had broken your 'frustrations' down. 

Not trying to make friends into enemies here, Jim. Hate arguing with someone who I've had good talks with in the past, but I still think a lot of what you say is just over analysis. Take it for what I'm saying. You don't have to agree with me. Just my observation on this whole debacle. 

- Erin


----------



## bbfoto

ibanzil said:


> Wasn't saying the jbl team was pissing themselves from fear of the bit1 being better. I was meaning to say...after looking at a forum occupied by mainly car audio fluent people, there are tons of people havings problems/difficulties with the bit1. Getting at, the jbl guys are probbly trying to work out every conceivable bug knowing what a stir can get caused.


ibanzil,

Doh! Sorry for misinterpreting your post. :blush: I feel like a real [email protected] now, lol! I think you're absolutely right concerning JBL and the MS8 release. I hope Audison has gained some valuable knowledge from this Bit One release debacle so it doesn't happen in the future.

It's like having a best friend that really goes to a lot of effort to help you out with a project, but no matter what he/she does, it just snowballs into f-up after f-up, creating more work, time, and $ for you, lol.

Erin,

As mucked-up as this thread is, I truly believe it contains valuable information regarding the Bit One units being utilized in a very extensive variety of setups and circumstances. It's obviously not going to be the easiest thread to search or to find specific info in...it's a "needle in a haystack" situation, but it's extremely valuable none-the-less.

Again, if nothing more, Audison SHOULD learn a great deal from the madness found here and hopefully avoid future nightmares like this.

It's really not anyone's fault except Audison's that this thread ended up this way! Honestly, THREE different VERSIONS of the Bit One have been released in as many months!...All with their own issues AND another set of Owner's Manuals/User Guidelines that confuse all of us because of the conflicts of information between each version. It should have been right from the start.

Alas, debate is a VERY GOOD thing! We learn the Best AND the Worst the subject has to offer, and it opens up new perspectives or ideas/uses/solutions that some of us would have never learned or thought of otherwise.

Unfortunately, the pioneers, adventurers, or first-adopters of new technology such as yourself sometimes become the "Guinea Pig". But just like a drunk best friend, "I LOVE YOU, MANG!" :bigcry: for starting this thread and can't wait to use the Bit One.1 for myself! IDK why, but it seems a lot of us here like inflicting pain and punishment upon ourselves sometimes, lol.


----------



## less

Erin: Fair enough - I just come here for advice and input and it felt like there was some attitude in that that didn't seem warranted. If the post is irritating you, nothing says you have to read it or respond... 

Anyhow, I'll say this quickly then bug out... I sorta feel like I owe it to Audison to say that - despite all the crap I wrote, the installation went quite well - owing at least partially to the fact that I had everything installed already at the highest possible version.

Digital input works well and sounds really pretty nice - I did hear some indications that the Bit One generates some quite nice output - sq wise. My analog installation didn't turn out to sound so well, and I don't know what it was that caused the issue that is probably related to my having to use an unfamiliar output mode on my h/u - I couldn't test its output sounds (since I have no passive crossovers) to see what the h/u output sounded like. 

No big deal at all for me though, since the digi in is what I was looking for. I'll test the aux ins today at some point and suspect they will sound fine. BTW -no background noise, although the unit switches to mute mode after -68db.... which seems a bit hokey - noise floor is no issue at all using coaxial input. 

I know those who sent me messages telling me not to do this meant well, but their fears appear unfounded . As far as SQ goes, the jury is still out simply due to limited experience, but I think I'll be able to make her sing. .. time to buy a laptop though. Dragging that 22" old school monitor around is no fun! 

BBFOTO: Well said my friend - well said. Debate is valuable - not all of this is debate but, still...


----------



## bbfoto

Thank you less, quality_sound, and others for stating the fact that you and several others have not had any Noise Floor using the Digital Inputs with the latest unit! 

I think I'm about ready to drop some dough on the Bit One.1, but now I'm wondering what features the "High End" version that is supposedly coming out will have, lol! Has anybody heard anything through the grapevine?

It never ends, does it!?!?


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^^to my knowledge. There will not be any "high end" bit1, besides the one we currently have.


----------



## muntos

Today I will receive my replacement for Bitone, the latest Bitone.1 :happy:


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> Today I will receive my replacement for Bitone, the latest Bitone.1 :happy:


Please report if you still have noise on optical input... I didn't receive any feedback from elettromedia if they fix my problem...


----------



## efun

If connect both Optical and Coaxial to the digital in of bitone, what will happen?


----------



## Buzzman

efun said:


> If connect both Optical and Coaxial to the digital in of bitone, what will happen?


First, nothing bad will happen. The only reason you would do this is if you have 2 digital sources, one with an optical output, the other with an S/PDIF coaxial output, that you would connect to the Bit One and select between on the DRC controller of the Bit One.


----------



## muntos

I received the package, now let's see when I have the time to install it.


----------



## G-rig

Hi guys, what seemed to be a turn on pop may be a voltage problem.. Ran some basic tests at the audio shop and the car seems to crank at 9V. It seems that no one else has installed one (that i know of) in an Golf R32, which i V6 and may chew more power. 

I'm yet to determine how often the OEM head unit powers back on as it is in standby more for around 20mins after leaving the car, as well as the amps and bit one being on possibly flattening the batter. 

I originally thought it was a fanbelt sound being winter over here but there is a kind of wurr starting the engine for the first time of the day.

Any suggestions on this- would a high performance battery or something else help? Not sure what is in it at the moment.

Cheers,


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

G-rig said:


> Hi guys, what seemed to be a turn on pop may be a voltage problem.. Ran some basic tests at the audio shop and the car seems to crank at 9V. It seems that no one else has installed one (that i know of) in an Golf R32, which i V6 and may chew more power.
> 
> I'm yet to determine how often the OEM head unit powers back on as it is in standby more for around 20mins after leaving the car, as well as the amps and bit one being on possibly flattening the batter.
> 
> I originally thought it was a fanbelt sound being winter over here but there is a kind of wurr starting the engine for the first time of the day.
> 
> Any suggestions on this- would a high performance battery or something else help? Not sure what is in it at the moment.
> 
> Cheers,


Wow 20 minutes, that is a long time and in the winter its that much worst.

I know it might not be the best way, but is there any way you can install a switch inline with the wire you use to active the BitOne, so you could power it and the amps down if your going to be out the car for an extend period. More then anything this should test your theory about them draining the battery.

Good luck.


----------



## G-rig

Here-I-Come said:


> Wow 20 minutes, that is a long time and in the winter its that much worst.
> 
> I know it might not be the best way, but is there any way you can install a switch inline with the wire you use to active the BitOne, so you could power it and the amps down if your going to be out the car for an extend period. More then anything this should test your theory about them draining the battery.
> 
> Good luck.


Thanks, it should be a good test as you say, but a switch would be my last option I think. May reconnet the Memory wire and see if that helps.

I could always hold the DRC button down to switch it off, but may turn on again.


----------



## less

efun said:


> If connect both Optical and Coaxial to the digital in of bitone, what will happen?


The B1 lets you switch between the two digital inputs on its input selection menu, so its not just one digi in with two optional connection types. That was one of the real reasons I was interested in it so that I can run two digital media players - a 500gb coaxial for music and a 250gb for video. Some of the video is music oriented and the digital in keeps it sounding pretty sweet. (I just love the barn jams on David Gilmour's Gdansk dvds for example).

No digi noise for me either. Not enough experience with the analog system to comment.

So far I am pretty glad I went this route... but I wish I had more cash (and better health!) to finish it up right! Right now, I am trying to decide if I am going to:

1. install a stock h/u in my car and find a spot to install a custom housing for a monitor (8 - 10") 
or-
2. pick up a Pioneer 880PRS or Alpine 9887 to fill the current hole where the DRZ was (but I just don't listen to cds anymore or radio... 
or- 
3. Pick up a used (Dell?) laptop and replace my single din monitor with a double Din vga monitor. I'd get a lot of cool options with this option, but its also the most expensive option... probably forcing me to sell some things I don't really want to sell in order to do it right. (cd play/navi/visualizations/wifi/tuning on the fly/etc.)​Decisions, decisions! Its nice to have the options in these tough economic times though! I'm really starting to love this little Civic


----------



## efun

Buzzman said:


> First, nothing bad will happen. The only reason you would do this is if you have 2 digital sources, one with an optical output, the other with an S/PDIF coaxial output, that you would connect to the Bit One and select between on the DRC controller of the Bit One.





less said:


> The B1 lets you switch between the two digital inputs on its input selection menu, so its not just one digi in with two optional connection types.



Yes, I just noticed there are two digital selection in DRC, one is "Digital Electric", the other is "Digital Optical". Good design.

The PC software use 'S/PDIF' and 'Optical' instead (see the page 19 of the manual). I think 'S/PDIF' just is 'Digital Electric' in PC software.


----------



## efun

I have a little confusion about the 4 memories.

*1) How to save the current setting to a specific memory? (for example, A)*
Here is what I learned from page 35:
-- The .prs file include all the memories(A/B/C/D) which can be saved via menu 'Save All Presets' and can be restored via 'Load All Presets'
-- The .pro file include only one memory which can be saved via 'Save Current Preset' and can be restored via 'Load Current Preset'. 
-- 'Copy Preset From' is the copy function between memories.

All the operations above is based on the setting is already on the memory, the question is how to save the setting to a memory? It is saved automaticlly after tuning process? so, before start to set the parameters, we need select one memory first, then all the setting will store to the memory automaticlly ... right?

*2) Does the memory include listen point indicator? for example, if the listen point indicator will changed when swith one memory to another.*

*3) Does the memory include dynamic EQ settings? or the dynamic EQ setting is separated from the presets?*


----------



## efun

less said:


> So far I am pretty glad I went this route... but I wish I had more cash (and better health!) to finish it up right! Right now, I am trying to decide if I am going to:
> ... ...
> Decisions, decisions! Its nice to have the options in these tough economic times though! I'm really starting to love this little Civic


I plan to install a carputer which is seamless integrated with the car via CAN-BUS. For example, 
-- the carputer can control the volume of the stock HU. 
-- the carputer can select the HU audio source [CD] - [RADIO] - [CDC] - [AUX]

As for the audio, there are two solution:

1) Solution A:
Carputer connect to the [AUX] of the HU. Volume control is at Carputer or HU (it is the same thing because carputer control the HU). This is the seamless way since carputer can control everything: volume, source, etc. Of course, it is the analog signal.









2) Solution B:
Carputer connect to the bitone direclty using digital signal. The SQ will be better, but carputer will lost some control function since the front end software can not communicate with the bitone.










The perfect solution is B plus *Bit One PLUGIN*. 
-- HU volume is set to max undistorted level
-- Volume control is via BitOne or Carputer (carputer control the bitone)
-- Besides the original audio source, there is a new source called 'carputer' . When select this source, carputer will sent command to bitone to change source to digital-in. If select other sources, carputer will sent command to bitone to change source to MASTER PRE IN.

So, I hope audison publish such PLUGIN soon. Since the it's PC software has such functions already, the only thing they need do is deveop a small DLL and publish the function API.


----------



## Buzzman

efun said:


> I have a little confusion about the 4 memories.
> 
> *1) How to save the current setting to a specific memory? (for example, A)*
> Here is what I learned from page 35:
> -- The .prs file include all the memories(A/B/C/D) which can be saved via menu 'Save All Presets' and can be restored via 'Load All Presets'
> -- The .pro file include only one memory which can be saved via 'Save Current Preset' and can be restored via 'Load Current Preset'.
> -- 'Copy Preset From' is the copy function between memories.
> 
> All the operations above is based on the setting is already on the memory, the question is how to save the setting to a memory? It is saved automaticlly after tuning process? so, before start to set the parameters, we need select one memory first, then all the setting will store to the memory automaticlly ... right?
> 
> *2) Does the memory include listen point indicator? for example, if the listen point indicator will changed when swith one memory to another.*
> 
> *3) Does the memory include dynamic EQ settings? or the dynamic EQ setting is separated from the presets?*


In order to save a setting to a Memory bank, you have to click on "File," a window will pop down, click on "Save Setup," and a pop up screen will appear, asking you to name the file to be saved. Assign it a name (I like to use A1, A2, B1, B2, etc.) depending on the Memory bank I am in), click on "Save" at the bottom of the screen. You will then be sent back to the DSP screen where you should click on "File" again, a window will drop down, and then you MUST click on "Finalize to Bit One." You MUST always "Finalize to Bit One" after saving a setting because if you change from one Memory bank to another, and then return to the one you were previously listening to, the setting you were last listening to in that Memory bank will not be there. It will revert to the one that was last finalized.

So, now you have a setting saved in Memory A, and nothing in B, C, or D. Go to Memory B and you will see the default DSP settings. You should then click on the "Memory" tab, and in the drop down screen click on "Copy Presets From" and then click "A." The settings in A will now be copied to B, and you can make any changes you wish. Once done, you MUST then go through the same file saving and naming process, and change the file name accordingly (e.g., from A1 to B1), and "Finalize to Bit One." You can then go to Memory C and follow the same procedure. You might want to copy the preset from B to C, make changes to that and save as noted. You then go to D, copy from C, make changes to that and save as noted. 

Now you have settings in all four Memory banks, can switch among them to see what you like, and don't like. Let's say you like the midrange qualities in B, but not the bass, and like the bass in C, but not the midrange. With the computer connected, switch between Memory B and C, write down the settings (both DSP and Output), and pick the Memory bank that will become your new preferred setting. Let's say it's Memory B. Make the changes to the bass settings you wish, click on "File," click on "Save Set-up, rename file as B2, click Save, and then "Finalize to Bit One." Now when you go to Memory B, your most recent setting is there, combining what you like best about the previous Memory B setting and your current Memory C setting. 
Now, something I should point out is that the Manual states that settings for Output levels for each channel will not be saved to Memory. WRONG! If you follow the proper saving procedure, your output level settings WILL be saved. So, if in the last example, one of the reasons you liked the bass in C over the bass in B was because the output levels on your mid-bass and sub were higher than in the setting on B, and you make the necessary changes, when you save B2, the new Output level settings will be there. 

The Memory settings you save and finalize include the listening position selected. 

I am not sure whether the Dynamic EQ setting is memory bank specific. I haven't used it yet. But, that will be easy to figure out by simply trying it. 

Have Fun, no pun intended.


----------



## michaelsil1

Damn Don you're so helpful and patient.


----------



## efun

Buzzman said:


> In order to save a setting to a Memory bank, you have to click on "File," a window will pop down, click on "Save Setup," and a pop up screen will appear, asking you to name the file to be saved. Assign it a name (I like to use A1, A2, B1, B2, etc.) depending on the Memory bank I am in), click on "Save" at the bottom of the screen. You will then be sent back to the DSP screen where you should click on "File" again, a window will drop down, and then you MUST click on "Finalize to Bit One." You MUST always "Finalize to Bit One" after saving a setting because if you change from one Memory bank to another, and then return to the one you were previously listening to, the setting you were last listening to in that Memory bank will not be there. It will revert to the one that was last finalized.
> 
> So, now you have a setting saved in Memory A, and nothing in B, C, or D. Go to Memory B and you will see the default DSP settings. You should then click on the "Memory" tab, and in the drop down screen click on "Copy Presets From" and then click "A." The settings in A will now be copied to B, and you can make any changes you wish. Once done, you MUST then go through the same file saving and naming process, and change the file name accordingly (e.g., from A1 to B1), and "Finalize to Bit One." You can then go to Memory C and follow the same procedure. You might want to copy the preset from B to C, make changes to that and save as noted. You then go to D, copy from C, make changes to that and save as noted.
> 
> Now you have settings in all four Memory banks, can switch among them to see what you like, and don't like. Let's say you like the midrange qualities in B, but not the bass, and like the bass in C, but not the midrange. With the computer connected, switch between Memory B and C, write down the settings (both DSP and Output), and pick the Memory bank that will become your new preferred setting. Let's say it's Memory B. Make the changes to the bass settings you wish, click on "File," click on "Save Set-up, rename file as B2, click Save, and then "Finalize to Bit One." Now when you go to Memory B, your most recent setting is there, combining what you like best about the previous Memory B setting and your current Memory C setting.
> Now, something I should point out is that the Manual states that settings for Output levels for each channel will not be saved to Memory. WRONG! If you follow the proper saving procedure, your output level settings WILL be saved. So, if in the last example, one of the reasons you liked the bass in C over the bass in B was because the output levels on your mid-bass and sub were higher than in the setting on B, and you make the necessary changes, when you save B2, the new Output level settings will be there.
> 
> The Memory settings you save and finalize include the listening position selected.
> 
> I am not sure whether the Dynamic EQ setting is memory bank specific. I haven't used it yet. But, that will be easy to figure out by simply trying it.
> 
> Have Fun, no pun intended.



What a good instruction! They should put it to the manual :beerchug:

Now there are 3 types of the file:

.bit -- 'File -> Save Setup'
.prs -- 'Memory -> Save All Presets'
.pro -- 'Memory -> Save Current Preset'

My understanding is we only need keep the .bit file since it contain all the info in .prs or .pro


----------



## Buzzman

michaelsil1 said:


> Damn Don you're so helpful and patient.


Thanks, Michael. Anything to help fellow Bit One users have as great an experience as I have had.


----------



## Buzzman

efun said:


> What a good instruction! They should put it to the manual :beerchug:


Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. 



efun said:


> Now there are 3 types of the file:
> 
> .bit -- 'File -> Save Setup'
> .prs -- 'Memory -> Save All Presets'
> .pro -- 'Memory -> Save Current Preset'
> 
> My understanding is we only need keep the .bit file since it contain all the info in .prs or .pro


That is correct.


----------



## minibox

I know nothing about how time alignment works but I've heard that the bit one's time alignment is done differently than other processors. Instead of changing phasing it uses special dsp so as not to detract from the sq. Does anyone know more about this and can you elaborate?


----------



## less

In theory, the dynamic eq is one of the best things about the b1 for me. It nice not to have to have an eq setting for different volume levels so that your ears will hear the lower frequencies the same. In practice, I've still not owned mine long enough (especially not having a laptop to take with me) to learn how the drc adjustment of it works.)

BTW, that was a really nice description of the save process - and that is exactly the spirit I've always liked about diyma... nicely done!

Jim


----------



## Buzzman

less said:


> In theory, the dynamic eq is one of the best things about the b1 for me. It nice not to have to have an eq setting for different volume levels so that your ears will hear the lower frequencies the same. In practice, I've still not owned mine long enough (especially not having a laptop to take with me) to learn how the drc adjustment of it works.)
> 
> BTW, that was a really nice description of the save process - and that is exactly the spirit I've always liked about diyma... nicely done!
> 
> Jim


Thanks, Jim. 

I expect I will start playing around with the Dynamic EQ process soon. To me it did not make sense to do so until I felt I had the tuning process dialed in and was happy with my crossover settings, gain levels, etc. After all, whatever happens at low volume via Dynamic EQ is going to be based on what you have settled in on for normal listening.


----------



## snef

little question

is this normal

im in expert mode

and all my X-over are Butterworth

and when i try to set my midrange x-over in bandpass mode
i can chose low-pass slope but unable to change the H-P slope
i know if i set the L-P slope the H-P are the same, 
if i want a different one?????


----------



## michaelsil1

Sorry, you can't have different slopes on the same Driver.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

snef said:


> little question
> 
> is this normal
> 
> im in expert mode
> 
> and all my X-over are Butterworth
> 
> and when i try to set my midrange x-over in bandpass mode
> i can chose low-pass slope but unable to change the H-P slope
> i know if i set the L-P slope the H-P are the same,
> if i want a different one?????


Yep Michaelsil1 is correct. On the bandpass the slope setting the High and Low pass will be the same. I was hoping this was one of the things I would change, but it is what it is.


----------



## quality_sound

G-rig said:


> Hi guys, what seemed to be a turn on pop may be a voltage problem.. Ran some basic tests at the audio shop and the car seems to crank at 9V. It seems that no one else has installed one (that i know of) in an Golf R32, which i V6 and may chew more power.
> 
> I'm yet to determine how often the OEM head unit powers back on as it is in standby more for around 20mins after leaving the car, as well as the amps and bit one being on possibly flattening the batter.
> 
> I originally thought it was a fanbelt sound being winter over here but there is a kind of wurr starting the engine for the first time of the day.
> 
> Any suggestions on this- would a high performance battery or something else help? Not sure what is in it at the moment.
> 
> Cheers,


Greg, the noise is the RNS-510's fan. The can-bus leaves the HDD in the HU spinning to make start up during short trips faster. That's also why it turns the HU on when you unlock the car which is the source of the issue, the system is on when you're cranking the car. There is a key-sense wire in the ignition and in the gauge cluster (and probably in the door as well) you canuse for remote turn on. If I don't find an F#1 HU/processor combo I'm going to go find one of them and use that instead of the high level signal sensing.


----------



## muntos

So I've replaced my old Bit One (actually it was Bit One - S) with Bit One.1 and I no longer have noises on Optical Digital input, also everything else is working like a charm !
Thanks again to Audison for their support !


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> So I've replaced my old Bit One (actually it was Bit One - S) with Bit One.1 and I no longer have noises on Optical Digital input, also everything else is working like a charm !
> Thanks again to Audison for their support !


Nice to hear this... Im cca. 70% decided that when I receive it back I will sell it... First I will try if "solution" will work and then I think I will go Active solution direct from sound card...


----------



## muntos

How directly from soundcard ? With analog outputs...?


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> How directly from soundcard ? With analog outputs...?


Yes my new sound card have 8x RCA outputs, 1x optical OUT, 1x optical IN, 1x coaxial out, 1x coaxial IN, MIDI, MIC in, line in... Because have ASIO drivers I can use software caled Console or AudioMulch and VST plugins(crossovers 96dB/Oct, 64Band EQ, TimeAligment)... So I think I will go this way...


----------



## muntos

Nice soundcard...any link with it ?


----------



## _Dejan_

muntos said:


> Nice soundcard...any link with it ?


Yes  LINK But we can discuss about it in my thread when I will post new details about carpc...


----------



## snef

Hi
another question
any of you have 3 amps connected to remote out of the bit.one
I have 2 CDT SQA-4100 and a NINe.1
can I connect these 3 to remote out of the bit.one?
Thanks


----------



## Technic

snef said:


> Hi
> another question
> any of you have 3 amps connected to remote out of the bit.one
> I have 2 CDT SQA-4100 and a NINe.1
> can I connect these 3 to remote out of the bit.one?
> Thanks


As long as the total current draw of those 3 remote signal wires do not exceed 1A you should be good...


----------



## quality_sound

I have 3 Arc Minis off the remote turn on of mine.


----------



## braves6117

snef said:


> Hi
> another question
> any of you have 3 amps connected to remote out of the bit.one
> I have 2 CDT SQA-4100 and a NINe.1
> can I connect these 3 to remote out of the bit.one?
> Thanks



Why not use one remote out via an amp? No need to get them all on at once, its milliseconds were talking about.. Just asking....


----------



## snef

braves6117 said:


> Why not use one remote out via an amp? No need to get them all on at once, its milliseconds were talking about.. Just asking....


I don't have remote out on these amp
i will put a relay on remote out of the bit one
anyway I need power for fan, light and backup camera


----------



## Technic

snef said:


> I don't have remote out on these amp
> i will put a *relay* on remote out of the bit one
> anyway I need power for fan, light and backup camera


Good idea...


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> I have 3 Arc Minis off the remote turn on of mine.


Same here.

Just wanted to check should the remote wire be set up as a one into three split, nothing fancy? 

I've still got this turn on pop but Audison claim that the bit one shouldn't do it.


----------



## quality_sound

it's not the bit one per se, it's the hu/b1.1 combo. with a normal turn on circuit instead of the high level inputs triggering the b1.1 it doesn't do it. 

i didn't split my line, i just go from one amp to the next.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> it's not the bit one per se, it's the hu/b1.1 combo. with a normal turn on circuit instead of the high level inputs triggering the b1.1 it doesn't do it.
> 
> i didn't split my line, i just go from one amp to the next.


Thanks - I can see how it's a timing problem using high level, but have hear from someone over here that they've installed RF 3sixty.2's in VW's including the RNS-510 with no issues.

I haven't tried a resister on the remote line yet, is that worth a go?

I'm just using a normal/thin blue cable for the remote, and think it breaks into three, however checked with the shop and they said the amps all come on at the same time whether you do that or one to the other (like a daisy chain).

I'd prefer to hear a pop through the sub if anything as it may not hurt it or be audiable, if the daisy chain idea did work and going to the sub's amp first..


----------



## chad

_Dejan_ said:


> Yes  LINK But we can discuss about it in my thread when I will post new details about carpc...


Holy batshit!

How privy are you to this? I'll do some research here but we may just need that for work in a few student studios.


----------



## G-rig

snef said:


> I don't have remote out on these amp
> i will put a relay on remote out of the bit one
> anyway I need power for fan, light and backup camera


Just wondering if a resister on the remote line to the amps would help out my turn on pop problem? Would this act as a delay and what type/size would i need?

Also noticing some mild but noticing pops/crackles during playback (not all the time but could be a few per song). Anyone else having this, and is it just some digital processor oddness?

Thanks,


----------



## bbfoto

Search for the "PAC TR-4" or "PAC TR-7". These are 12V Remote Triggers that have a Delayed Turn On with up to 2-Amp Output Current. 

The TR-4 is Set at a 1 Second Delay and is about $10-$15.









PAC - Low-Voltage Remote Turn-On Trigger - TR-4

The TR-7 has a fully Programable Delay...up to 4 Minutes IIRC!










David Navone makes similar devices and a lot of other useful gadgets...Check out these: David Navone - Pop Eliminators - Car Audio Engineering

Stole the below info from a post on MP3car.com... PAC TR-7 Trigger Module - MP3Car.com
-----------------------------------------
PAC TR-7 Trigger Module

I couldn't find anyone on mp3car talking about this before so I thought it would be useful to mention.

It is a 16 mode multi-purpose trigger/pulsing module that can do tons of cool stuff. You can find it online for $18.

Here is the link: http://www.go2pac.com/products/trigger.htm

The brief overview of what it does is any one of the following:
• Low voltage trigger. Gives you +12v output from headunits that do not have a remote output.
• Alpine Video Bypass (all flip out monitors)
• Latching outputs
• Double Pulse Output
• Pulse Extender
• Horn Honking Output
• Linear Actuator Controller
• Doorlock Pulse Generator
• Channel Splitter
• Pulses to Constant output
• 3 in 1 timer outputs
• Pulses to latch/unlatch outputs
• Pulses to pulse output
• Pulses to timed output
• Latching outputs #2.
• Turn on pop delay
• Delayed amp turn off

Here is the link to the detailed instruction manual: http://www.go2pac.com/instructions/tr7instr.pdf 
--------------------------------

Hope this helps.
Billy B.


----------



## G-rig

Thanks for that Billy, may have to look into those.

I just need to confirm my grounding points as well but someone mentioned something interesting and suggested the ART using channels 1 & 2 may not work as well as it should, and possibly try using other inputs (say 5 & 6) but would need a remote in or mem trigger.

Thanks,


----------



## G-rig

Hi guys, just wanted to run an idea past you as a band-aid solution to the Bit One's treatment of the VW Sat Nav head unit.

My shop suggested to tap into the CANBUS and get a a key sensing trigger/module and use that instead of using speaker wire ART in channels 1 & 2. 

Then connect speaker wires into channels 5 & 6 (I assume you can tell the Bit One you want to use these inputs?).

The original idea was to have keyless sound the same as the factory setup, but think it would be a good compromise to have key sensing and would fix the pop problem and better than needing the ignition on.

One Audison installer i've spoke to wired it up using a trigger into channels 5 & 6 but still isn't ideal as you have to turn the bit one off manually.

Cheers,


----------



## quality_sound

You can do that too and it should fix the the problem.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> You can do that too and it should fix the the problem.


Thanks - just waiting to hear if the key sensing idea will work how i want it to with VW, as they've done some porsches and as soon as you slide the key in you get accessories power. With VW, i may have to turn to ignition then back again which could defeat the purpose.

My previous Connects2 could extract the accessories from the CAN BUS so that's the kind of thing I need.

Am thinking of upgrading the gound too to a point on the body, even though the Car has a good gound for the HU. They are grounded at the same point and could possibly improve it but isn't going to fix the issue.


----------



## efun

> Originally Posted by efun
> My car is BMW E90 with HIFI option, I'd like use the HU ouput insteadof AMP output. Since my HU output is a balanced/differential signal, I want to make sure if BitOne accept it as low level input.





quality_sound said:


> it'll be fine.



The local Audison dealer told me that bit one has NO balanced input. Does anybody try it sucessfully?


----------



## ErinH

Correct. No balanced input/output.
So, you just don't get the advantage of having a balanced signal. it doesn't hurt, though. You just don't get that advantage (ie: you're just running unbalanced).


----------



## efun

bikinpunk said:


> Correct. No balanced input/output.
> So, you just don't get the advantage of having a balanced signal. it doesn't hurt, though. You just don't get that advantage (ie: you're just running unbalanced).



so you mean that it just take the signal of one wire and ignore the other? equals to using one wire with a normal ground?


----------



## ErinH

afaik, yes.

I'm not about to pretend I know about how all the balanced/unbalanced works, but it's safe (perfectly okay) to use them criss crossed. you just don't get the benefit of balanced.

my amps have balanced inputs but nothing else in my car has balanced outs.


----------



## Technic

efun said:


> The local Audison dealer told me that bit one has NO balanced input. Does anybody try it sucessfully?


Are you the same "efunroom" member in this forum: Pics of my install - PDX 5 Audison Bit 1 - BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (M1 / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)

If so, your question was already answered:



efunroom said:


> Bye Bye GTI: can bit one accept differential/balanced output of OEM HU? or you use the speaker level signal after the OEM AMP?





Bye Bye GTI said:


> The OEM amp is completely bypassed in my setup. The Bit 1 accepts the speaker level outputs from the head unit with no troubles.


And this was my clarification:



Technic said:


> Just for clarity and general information: the Bit 1 accepts the low level, differential outputs from the head unit with no troubles.


Larry from Electtromedia also confirmed to me that the bit one accepts differential signals.

You can use either bit one input, Pre In (0.3 - 5V) or Speaker In (1.2 - 20 V). Your E90 OEM HU/CCC/CIC analog differential output level is around 5V peak.


----------



## ErinH

Technic said:


> You can use either bit one input, Pre In (0.3 - 5V) or Speaker In (1.2 - 20 V). Your E90 OEM HU/CCC/CIC analog differential output level is around 5V peak.


Was he able to say anything about the outputs?


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> Was he able to say anything about the outputs?


The bit one outputs? I would guess that they are non-differential outputs as this is the type of topology that can be accepted by all aftermarket amplifiers, regardless if they can also accept differential signals or not. 

It is the other way around that just does not work as easily: a differential signal cannot be input into a non-differential circuitry as it is. You have to convert it to non-differential first.


----------



## ErinH

figured. I was just curious if you got any info out of him regarding the outputs. I was curious if things had changed since the first version. Thanks.


----------



## Technic

bikinpunk said:


> figured. I was just curious if you got any info out of him regarding the outputs. I was curious if things had changed since the first version. Thanks.


No, never asked about the outputs...


----------



## efun

Technic said:


> Are you the same "efunroom" member in this forum: Pics of my install - PDX 5 Audison Bit 1 - BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (M1 / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
> 
> If so, your question was already answered:
> 
> Larry from Electtromedia also confirmed to me that the bit one accepts differential signals.
> 
> You can use either bit one input, Pre In (0.3 - 5V) or Speaker In (1.2 - 20 V). Your E90 OEM HU/CCC/CIC analog differential output level is around 5V peak.


Hello Technic,

efunroom is me. Thanks for your reply to my question in E90 forum. Since high level input of bit one has been proved to accept balanced signal in that post, I send a mail to audison headquarter to inquire the capability of low level input. They direct my inqiure to the dealer of China. Now, the dealer replied my mail and the answer is NO. They said bit one can not accept balanced signal, neither high level input nor low level input. I am not sure if it is the offical answer ... very confused... 

Then I think maybe bitone regards the balanced signal just as the non-balanced input, but you said 'a differential signal cannot be input into a non-differential circuitry'. So you believe that bitone has a differential circuitry,right? Do you think that a non-differential sigal can be input to a differential circuitry? I mean if bit one accept both balanced and non-balanced signal?

Another question is how to convert a balanced signal to unbalanced? Can I just use the car ground to replace one signal line?

Anyway, I will try it when I received the bitone two weeks later. I hope the bit one works well with balanced input as you said. (Any risk to do such try?)

Suggest audison give a official answer and put it into the FAQ section.


----------



## efun

Currently I am sure that the HU output is flat, full range, balanced, 5V signal. I plan to use the high level input of bitone, because some one has sucessfully installed in this way. My question is any SQ difference between High level input and Low level input?


----------



## kyheng

What I'm more concern on signal transfering is how "full" the fullrange signal can it be. And I guess this will pretty much affecting the overall SQ. Sometimes too much of digital processing will make the song too digital and someone might not like it.


----------



## Technic

efun said:


> Hello Technic,
> 
> efunroom is me. Thanks for your reply to my question in E90 forum. Since high level input of bit one has been proved to accept balanced signal in that post, I send a mail to audison headquarter to inquire the capability of low level input. They direct my inqiure to the dealer of China. Now, the dealer replied my mail and the answer is NO. They said bit one can not accept balanced signal, neither high level input nor low level input. I am not sure if it is the offical answer ... very confused...
> 
> Then I think maybe bitone regards the balanced signal just as the non-balanced input, but you said 'a differential signal cannot be input into a non-differential circuitry'. *1)* So you believe that bitone has a differential circuitry,right? *2) *Do you think that a non-differential sigal can be input to a differential circuitry? I mean if bit one accept both balanced and non-balanced signal?
> 
> *3)* Another question is how to convert a balanced signal to unbalanced? Can I just use the car ground to replace one signal line?
> 
> Anyway, I will try it when I received the bitone two weeks later. I hope the bit one works well with balanced input as you said. (Any risk to do such try?)
> 
> Suggest audison give a official answer and put it into the FAQ section.


1) It must have some kind of circuitry that accepts differential signals -not necessarily a full differential circuit- as the thread of the 135i installation showed without any noise issues.

2) Yes, that's the way it works.

3) No, as *both* signal terminals have voltage. That's the reason you use a particular circuit to convert differential to non-differential instead of just grounding a terminal and _burning_ the input signal down.


----------



## leogun

E Fun, how much is bit one cost in china???
do you know any shop that sell bit one around Guang zhou or Shen Zhen

Thanksss alot dude


----------



## efun

leogun said:


> E Fun, how much is bit one cost in china???
> do you know any shop that sell bit one around Guang zhou or Shen Zhen
> 
> Thanksss alot dude


I bought it from Australia. Anyway, I know a Audison dealer in Shen Zhen. PMed.


----------



## efun

Technic said:


> 1) It must have some kind of circuitry that accepts differential signals -not necessarily a full differential circuit- as the thread of the 135i installation showed without any noise issues.
> 
> 2) Yes, that's the way it works.
> 
> 3) No, as *both* signal terminals have voltage. That's the reason you use a particular circuit to convert differential to non-differential instead of just grounding a terminal and _burning_ the input signal down.


Technic, thanks for your answer. 

Any big SQ difference when using high level input comparing with low level input? From the manual,

Input sensitivity (Pre In)................0.3 ÷ 5 V
Input sensitivity (Speaker In)..........1.2 ÷ 20 V
Input impedance (Pre In)................20K
Input impedance (Speaker In)...........5K

The input impedance(Speaker In) is much lower than that of Pre In, using speaker in will get higher currency which means better, right?


----------



## Technic

efun said:


> Technic, thanks for your answer.
> 
> Any big SQ difference when using high level input comparing with low level input? From the manual,
> 
> Input sensitivity (Pre In)................0.3 ÷ 5 V
> Input sensitivity (Speaker In)..........1.2 ÷ 20 V
> Input impedance (Pre In)................20K
> Input impedance (Speaker In)...........5K
> 
> The input impedance(Speaker In) is much lower than that of Pre In,* using speaker in will get higher currency which means better, right? *


No, it does not mean "better". It means that it is _different_ because it is a different _application_. 

The high level outputs of your OEM amp have a THD of about 10% and a slight EQ curve built in (it is not the greatest amp). The low level/balanced outputs of the OEM HU have something in the range of 1% or less THD and it is a relatively flat signal; the THD on both signals are according to old E46 3-Series specs, by the way, I don't know if BMW improved those units but I least the difference in THD between the two signals should be the same _proportion_. 

What you want is the cleanest and flattest signal possible as your source, as the "De-EQ" feature in the bit one _could_ -not likely- produce undesired effects depending of how much EQ the original signal input has. To completely avoid any possible issue with "De-EQ" you should use a flat signal as input if you have one available. 

IMO, just follow what the member with the 135i did and you will be fine.


----------



## snef

Hi 
i have a issue with my bit.one and my w505

each time i change source or change radio channel with preset
i have pop 
but if i change or skip track on cd or ipod non problem

probably already talked about that, but the post is to long to read from the begining
note: i also have a mcintosh hu and no issue

hu : w505 connected to bit.one with rca
bit.one.1
??????????? Any idea??????


----------



## efun

Technic said:


> No, it does not mean "better". It means that it is _different_ because it is a different _application_.
> 
> The high level outputs of your OEM amp have a THD of about 10% and a slight EQ curve built in (it is not the greatest amp). The low level/balanced outputs of the OEM HU have something in the range of 1% or less THD and it is a relatively flat signal; the THD on both signals are according to old E46 3-Series specs, by the way, I don't know if BMW improved those units but I least the difference in THD between the two signals should be the same _proportion_.
> 
> What you want is the cleanest and flattest signal possible as your source, as the "De-EQ" feature in the bit one _could_ -not likely- produce undesired effects depending of how much EQ the original signal input has. To completely avoid any possible issue with "De-EQ" you should use a flat signal as input if you have one available.
> 
> IMO, just follow what the member with the 135i did and you will be fine.


Great info!

I will use the flat and clean signal of HU output, but face two options:

1) Use high level input of bitone to accept the signal (as 135i installation)
2) Use low level input of bitone to accept the signal.

Any SQ difference between these two options? Is it true that bitone will always go through the de-EQ process for high level input even the signal is clean and flat?


----------



## ErinH

Got my bitone.1 installed last night and did some gain setting with the oscilloscope and was very happily surprised to find that none of the outputs clip at full tilt, with full unclipped signal coming in off my headunit. Very happy about this. 
previously when I had the alpine h701 the input stage would clip even before I reached full unclipped signal coming from my headunit, which, combined with noise floor of the 701, caused me to have to keep the gain stage there lower and make up for it at the amplifiers which helped induce some moderate noise floor there.
So, I just wanted to say that I noticed this, and am happy with that design as this allows me to get much more dynamic range out of my system now. 

So far I haven't hooked up the DRC, but everything else seems to be in line. There is no longer any issues with alternator whine as I had had with my first 2 units.

I'm looking forward to toying with the dynamic EQ tonight. That looks to be very promising. I'm going to try it without using the DRC volume knob. 


The downside is... now I have to tune my setup. here goes a few months...


----------



## imjustjason

Cool! Finally a happy BitOne story!


----------



## ErinH

lol. For real. Audison has definitely made me a happy customer. The tech guy I've been talking with is probably one of the best I've ever dealt with.


----------



## bbfoto

Great news, Erin! Happy Tunning!


----------



## imjustjason

I was impressed that they replaced your tweeters. That was a class move.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> lol. For real. Audison has definitely made me a happy customer. The tech guy I've been talking with is probably one of the best I've ever dealt with.


Who was the Tech?


----------



## ErinH

starts with a Y and ends with an F.


----------



## michaelsil1

bikinpunk said:


> starts with a Y and ends with an F.


He's the first tier.


----------



## ErinH

i talked with the president of Ellet at one point. I think I talked with everyone at one point. The president is who I went to after the tweeters blew from the 2nd audison.


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

bikinpunk said:


> Got my bitone.1 installed last night and did some gain setting with the oscilloscope and was very happily surprised to find that none of the outputs clip at full tilt, with full unclipped signal coming in off my headunit. Very happy about this.
> previously when I had the alpine h701 the input stage would clip even before I reached full unclipped signal coming from my headunit, which, combined with noise floor of the 701, caused me to have to keep the gain stage there lower and make up for it at the amplifiers which helped induce some moderate noise floor there.
> So, I just wanted to say that I noticed this, and am happy with that design as this allows me to get much more dynamic range out of my system now.
> 
> So far I haven't hooked up the DRC, but everything else seems to be in line. There is no longer any issues with alternator whine as I had had with my first 2 units.
> 
> I'm looking forward to toying with the dynamic EQ tonight. That looks to be very promising. I'm going to try it without using the DRC volume knob.
> 
> 
> The downside is... now I have to tune my setup. here goes a few months...


Great man, glad to hear you got your .1 unit in and working. Now hook that DRC up so you dynamics stay the same going it the .1 from the head., its really a plus, minus having to mount another piece of equipment.


----------



## Buzzman

imjustjason said:


> Cool! Finally a happy BitOne story!


Actually, there are a LOT of other happy Bit One stories. Read the threads and you will see what I mean.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> Got my bitone.1 installed last night and did some gain setting with the oscilloscope and was very happily surprised to find that none of the outputs clip at full tilt, with full unclipped signal coming in off my headunit. Very happy about this.
> previously when I had the alpine h701 the input stage would clip even before I reached full unclipped signal coming from my headunit, which, combined with noise floor of the 701, caused me to have to keep the gain stage there lower and make up for it at the amplifiers which helped induce some moderate noise floor there.
> So, I just wanted to say that I noticed this, and am happy with that design as this allows me to get much more dynamic range out of my system now.
> 
> So far I haven't hooked up the DRC, but everything else seems to be in line. There is no longer any issues with alternator whine as I had had with my first 2 units.
> 
> I'm looking forward to toying with the dynamic EQ tonight. That looks to be very promising. I'm going to try it without using the DRC volume knob.
> 
> 
> The downside is... now I have to tune my setup. here goes a few months...


I am glad to hear that a smile has returned to your face, and I am sure it will stay there. I have had my Bit One.1 now for 5 months and it has worked without a hitch. 

Regarding clipping, here is something I suggest you try: get a copy of Joni Mitchell's "Travelogue" cd. Play either track 3, 5 or 6 of Disc 2, while observing the clipping led's on the Output Level page on your computer screen. The dynamic range of this cd will truly tell you whether you are clipping any inputs on the Bit One.1. Truly dynamic music will reveal things that test tones never will.


----------



## G-rig

bikinpunk said:


> Got my bitone.1 installed last night and did some gain setting with the oscilloscope and was very happily surprised to find that none of the outputs clip at full tilt, with full unclipped signal coming in off my headunit. Very happy about this.
> previously when I had the alpine h701 the input stage would clip even before I reached full unclipped signal coming from my headunit, which, combined with noise floor of the 701, caused me to have to keep the gain stage there lower and make up for it at the amplifiers which helped induce some moderate noise floor there.
> So, I just wanted to say that I noticed this, and am happy with that design as this allows me to get much more dynamic range out of my system now.
> 
> So far I haven't hooked up the DRC, but everything else seems to be in line. There is no longer any issues with alternator whine as I had had with my first 2 units.
> 
> I'm looking forward to toying with the dynamic EQ tonight. That looks to be very promising. I'm going to try it without using the DRC volume knob.
> 
> 
> The downside is... now I have to tune my setup. here goes a few months...


Glad you are happy with it!

I had a H701 + RUX701 controller with the same OEM head unit in my previous/interim setup and had a lot of clipping problems. Could have been as i was using a cheap Line level converter with no gain controls, and was limited by the HU volume and would have had to use the RUX controller for primary Vol (which i didn't want).

The Bit one DRC remains on 100% volume and everything works fine.. amazing how it deals with the signal and dont get any clipping until almost +85% of the HU volume range, but this could just be the speakers wanting more power from the amps.


----------



## G-rig

One question I have is with the I/O configuration setup:

I decided to use different high level inputs so ran the I/O setup again and used the installation cd. It seems very quiet and not sure if i'm imagining it but the system seems to have less volume now, and have to turn the HU volume up higher.

Am i using the correct cd? Also wondering how it treats the rear speakers which are coming off the HU. I initially here the first track coming through those before the front speakers eventually come on. Not sure what level to have the HU on for the setup as I can't hear where it would usually break up if there's no sound coming through to start with.

Part of this was to implement the PAC TR-4 trigger and using channels 5&6 to avoid this pop caused by the HU (with no luck). Taking it into the shop that installed everything on Tuesday to see if they can get around it. I still think the amps and/or HU need some ground reinforcements. Dont really want to go to low level inputs but I know an Audiocontrol LC6i would fix the problem, but is a bit of a double up of equipment if the Bit One is suppose to integrate with OEM setups.


----------



## quality_sound

Connect to the Bit One and go to the levels tab. The "Main Volume" will be WAY down. I don't know why they do it but it happens every time. 

Oh, I tried switching to the low level outputs on the 510 and nothing changed. Simply, high level inputs on a newer VWs are not a good idea. If I was keeping the car I'd change it but everything will be coming out of the car before too long so I'll just live with it.


----------



## G-rig

If you were keeping the setup what would you do? I think a low level converter like the lc6i may be the safest bet but wondering if a cheaper passive line converter would interfere with how the bit one cleans up the signal?

I've also noticed after connecting the bit one or loading a *.bit file the input tab also shows the wrong inputs in the diagram so hard to know if you can trust the master output level. Also the drc vol goes right down during the setup which may be to protect the speakers.


----------



## quality_sound

I'd reset the cluster back to NA settings so the radio turns off when the engine is shut off instead of when the key comes out. That way I could get accessory power from the fuse panel and not have it irritate me. I AM keeping the B1.1 though. I really like the integration of the iDrive with BT, video, navi, etc. even if stuff like the navi isn't the best. 

Why are you running the DRC? I didn't find any benefit when I tried mine out. Yes, you can trust the master level setting. What are you talking about with the inputs? I'll have a look at mine and see if it does the same thing.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> I'd reset the cluster back to NA settings so the radio turns off when the engine is shut off instead of when the key comes out. That way I could get accessory power from the fuse panel and not have it irritate me. I AM keeping the B1.1 though. I really like the integration of the iDrive with BT, video, navi, etc. even if stuff like the navi isn't the best.


Hi mate, how would you reset the cluster? Is it in the HU settings, VCDS or a physical change? It seems the answer is to extract the accessory signal/power somehow but would getting it from the can bus with a PAC-SWI-CAN be too expensive (they are about $200 here) or would you tap into the HU itself? The mem wire almost does that, what if i plugged it into the key on/off jumper?



> Why are you running the DRC? I didn't find any benefit when I tried mine out. Yes, you can trust the master level setting. What are you talking about with the inputs? I'll have a look at mine and see if it does the same thing.


Mainly for sub vol control, and it fits nealy in the ashtray. It was easier to hook that up than run the 500.1 lead all the way to the boot, and am starting to use the presets a bit more for 1 or 2 person sound. Dont exactly always like the soundstage in the middle of the dash.

Would the sub gain damage the sub or can you have it set to the highest desired on the amp and the remote wont go over that?

Thanks,

ps. I wouldnt mind putting the car back to stock and getting a 135i.. but they are that bit too expensive here as well. The next time i do an audio upgrade i may keep things a bit more simple.


----------



## Knobby Digital

A couple of annoyances I have w/ the bitone software. Dunno if these have been covered throughout the life of this thread, so forgive any redundancy. If these features exist or if there's a workaround that I'm missing, please let me know.


You can't switch back and forth between the eq and xover link/separate without loosing your revisions.

When switching to a separate preset (in the software), you can't choose to keep your eq settings. It would be nice to have them copy over (or not) so you can make minor changes for ABX-ing.

You can't punch in values or use the d-arrows for boost/cutting eq.

It would be incredibly convenient if there were mobile versions of the software (e.g. WinMobile, iPhone, Palm, etc). The RF 3sixty spoiled me in this regard.


These are all I can think of now. Hopefully no more pop up when I'm fiddling with it in the future.


----------



## G-rig

Sometimes i've noticed the DRC doesn't light up , however i got sound. Is this normal?

Sorry for being such a picky bastard!!


----------



## quality_sound

G-rig said:


> Hi mate, how would you reset the cluster? Is it in the HU settings, VCDS or a physical change? It seems the answer is to extract the accessory signal/power somehow but would getting it from the can bus with a PAC-SWI-CAN be too expensive (they are about $200 here) or would you tap into the HU itself? The mem wire almost does that, what if i plugged it into the key on/off jumper?


It's done though VCDS. Since it's set that way now I could just run a lead from the fuse box to the mem input and be good. 



> Mainly for sub vol control, and it fits nealy in the ashtray. It was easier to hook that up than run the 500.1 lead all the way to the boot, and am starting to use the presets a bit more for 1 or 2 person sound. Dont exactly always like the soundstage in the middle of the dash.
> 
> Would the sub gain damage the sub or can you have it set to the highest desired on the amp and the remote wont go over that?


I like it better than using a remote gain because it's really just chaging how much signal is going into the amp, a second volume control, rather than adjusting the gain on the amp. 



> ps. I wouldnt mind putting the car back to stock and getting a 135i.. but they are that bit too expensive here as well. The next time i do an audio upgrade i may keep things a bit more simple.


The 135 isn't an easier to work with but I'll let you know how it works on with my M3.


----------



## michaelsil1

G-rig said:


> Sometimes i've noticed the DRC doesn't light up , however i got sound. Is this normal?
> 
> Sorry for being such a picky bastard!!


This happens to me if I go from listening with the car off and then start it; the unit has to have time to cycle.


----------



## stas_magic

Just received BOne.1 a wek ago. So had some time to build my car. Its just first stage without sub. 
Some mess in the boot)
No issues-noices (connected via Master RCA from OEM RNSE Audi HU). Noise appearing only when accelerating (increasing at higher revs). Almost 4 shure due to all theese power wires in one place)\


----------



## G-rig

michaelsil1 said:


> This happens to me if I go from listening with the car off and then start it; the unit has to have time to cycle.


I assume that's normal, but what I meant was sometimes the DRC takes a lot longer to turn on than the unit itself.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> It's done though VCDS. Since it's set that way now I could just run a lead from the fuse box to the mem input and be good.


A mate of mine with VCDS said there isn't a way to change how the RNS-510 powers on . 

The Red wire i had going to the Mem input was a 12v accessories wire i thought? It turns the bit one (and hence amps) off after leaving the car but still got the turn on pop, so not sure now if its a battery/voltage drain or a ground problem, or the simple fact the HU still turns off then on again when starting the car whilst the Bit One remains on the whole time during that action.



> The 135 isn't an easier to work with but I'll let you know how it works on with my M3.


Yeah, not much you can do with the 135i's, i think you can upgrade the under seat subs slightly and can fit a type of 4" Focal in the doors but if i had the facotry upgraded system may not bother. 

Doubt I'll be getting one but keen to hear how you go! M3 :thumbsup:


----------



## quality_sound

G-rig said:


> A mate of mine with VCDS said there isn't a way to change how the RNS-510 powers on .


Technically there isn't. The change is to the gauge cluster setting. I know, I thought it was weird but it works. 



> The Red wire i had going to the Mem input was a 12v accessories wire i thought? It turns the bit one (and hence amps) off after leaving the car but still got the turn on pop, so not sure now if its a battery/voltage drain or a ground problem, or the simple fact the HU still turns off then on again when starting the car whilst the Bit One remains on the whole time during that action.


That's what I'm thinking it is. 



> Yeah, not much you can do with the 135i's, i think you can upgrade the under seat subs slightly and can fit a type of 4" Focal in the doors but if i had the facotry upgraded system may not bother.


Earthquake SWS-8s and the Hertz Space 8 will fit in the OEM boxes but if you want to build something loads of 8s and 9 will fit. There are also multiple 4's that'll fit in the doors. You'll just have to get creative.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> Technically there isn't. The change is to the gauge cluster setting. I know, I thought it was weird but it works.


Sorry for keeping on about this as i'm over it too...

Where is the gauge cluster/settings? that could be an easy solution but dont know if it will fit it when cranking the ignition as that's when the problem is. 

i'm getting smaller pops during music playback, moreso at higher levels so may just uninstall everthing soon. 

Not happy with the kufatec camera adaper either which will be coming out. No point trying to get all this **** perfect..!


----------



## quality_sound

You recode the gauge cluster to a different region. Mine was orignally set for the US and on that setting the radio turns off when you turn the engine off. When I reset it for Great Britain it would stay on until I pulled the key out. 

You shouldn't be getting ANY noise during playback, I don't.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> You recode the gauge cluster to a different region. Mine was orignally set for the US and on that setting the radio turns off when you turn the engine off. When I reset it for Great Britain it would stay on until I pulled the key out.


My mate seems to think if i recode the country code then i'd most likely get a host of beeps like seat belts warnings and other stuff.

Funny thing is I think I've heard of people with the Audi RNS-E and Bit one with no such dramas.

May sell the car and some/most of the gear anyway i think.


----------



## quality_sound

You might, but what's the big deal? Do you drive with your seatbelt off?


----------



## G-rig

Just wondering if it's normal to hear some sound getting through to the rear speakers (which are running off the head unit) when the bit one is off (but faded fully to the front).

It's coming through as a faint but distored sound. Prob no big deal once the normal volume is up but seems a bit odd?


----------



## Silver Supra

I just picked one of these up... very cool. However, I don't have a slider to adjust the input sensitivity on the Ext. EQ tab... do I have a software bug?


----------



## monkeyboy

FYI, the bit one software runs perfectly in Windows 7.


----------



## Silver Supra

Silver Supra said:


> I just picked one of these up... very cool. However, I don't have a slider to adjust the input sensitivity on the Ext. EQ tab... do I have a software bug?


I guess the master doesn't allow sensitivity adjustments, which I find stupid. The initial setup is supposed to take care of this for you but it doesn't work correctly for me, and I end up with a huge volume difference between my SPDIF input and my master analog.

I ended up using an AUX input and set my sensitivity manually to 5V and now the inputs are matched perfectly.

Maybe Audison will enable the sensitivity adjustment on all inputs? Other than that I'm pretty happy with the unit so far. Mine is a BitOne.1 in case anyone wonders.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> You shouldn't be getting ANY noise during playback, I don't.


I may have been getting a pop through playback with other devices wired in such as the camera which was getting power from the cig lighter and thats where the mdi was earthed as well. Will have to test it a bit longer but took the camera out until i can retrofit the OEM one from MK6 with the badge that rotates up.

Btw, I adjusted the main output volume on the software and wow.. the system has a fair bit more volume and very clean upto about vol 25 now. Seemed way too quiet before.

Still not exactly sure on the difference between output level for the sub (which is ch 7 & 8) and the Subwoofer level.. are they almost the same thing? To me it seems the ch 7 & 8 output should be set relative to the other speakers and the sub level can be adjusted like on the remote? but for some reason the software wasn't finalizing it before.


----------



## quality_sound

Yeah, I'm not sure why there's levels for both either but I've never read the manual either.


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> Yeah, I'm not sure why there's levels for both either but I've never read the manual either.


i've read some of it but should read more. whatever i changed the sub is way too much now and sounds a bit yuk. A small adjustment on the output levels makes a big difference.


----------



## Buzzman

G-rig said:


> . . . Still not exactly sure on the difference between output level for the sub (which is ch 7 & 8) and the Subwoofer level.. are they almost the same thing? To me it seems the ch 7 & 8 output should be set relative to the other speakers and the sub level can be adjusted like on the remote? but for some reason the software wasn't finalizing it before.


The output levels for the channels to which your sub is connected controls the voltage that the amp sees, and should be set to reproduce the music as well balanced as possible in conjunction with the other channels. The subwoofer volume should be at Zero while doing this. The subwoofer level allows you to *decrease *output from your sub directly from the DRC (notice that the settings are in negative numbers), which you may want to do depending on what you are listening to. In other words, the music you use to set the output levels and saved to your setting may have been very well recorded and be of audiophile quality. But, one day you put on something that has an exaggerated bottom end that you don't like. Just press the "sel" button on the DRC and choose subwoofer volume, and you can lower the bass output to your liking.


----------



## G-rig

Buzzman said:


> The output levels for the channels to which your sub is connected controls the voltage that the amp sees, and should be set to reproduce the music as well balanced as possible in conjunction with the other channels. The subwoofer volume should be at Zero while doing this. The subwoofer level allows you to *decrease *output from your sub directly from the DRC (notice that the settings are in negative numbers), which you may want to do depending on what you are listening to. In other words, the music you use to set the output levels and saved to your setting may have been very well recorded and be of audiophile quality. But, one day you put on something that has an exaggerated bottom end that you don't like. Just press the "sel" button on the DRC and choose subwoofer volume, and you can lower the bass output to your liking.


Thanks I think I'll reset the profile how I had it before, but just wanted a touch more sub bass when the DRC was at zero. Difference sources and songs require adjusting it a fair bit to keep a balanced sound.

If you've heard many good headphones they aren't bass heavy, but for the car you need a bit more as the road noise frequencies cancel it out somewhat, and still not the ideal listening environment but my setup is sounding super clean and nice now, and goes quiet loud with no apparent distortion. May get some A-pillar pods next.


----------



## White Lightning

Really neat product. Here here for the bitone....

(ok so I had to burn a post...)

WL


----------



## efun

Finally, I received my bit one.1 and has installed on my car. here is my observation:

1) Bit one does accept balanced singal. My car is BMW E90 and the output of HU is balanced signal. Bit one works well with it.

2) I noticed that the noise of optical input is much louder than master input. The optical source is the onboard soundcard of car PC. Maybe the digital noise was caused by the poor onboard chip or different sampling rate, so I plan to buy a external USB soundcard (EMU0404) to test it.

3) My config of bit one is 4 channel input and 8 channel output. All channel works well except output channel 7 and 8. No sound produced when plug the AMP RCA fully -- which means contact both the RCA ground and signal. If only contact the signal, it has sound. Not sure if it is a defect or my config problem, need more time to debug.


----------



## Technic

efun said:


> Finally, I received my bit one.1 and has installed on my car. here is my observation:
> 
> *1) Bit one does accept balanced singal. My car is BMW E90 and the output of HU is balanced signal. Bit one works well with it.*
> 
> 2) I noticed that the noise of optical input is much louder than master input. The optical source is the onboard soundcard of car PC. Maybe the digital noise was caused by the poor onboard chip or different sampling rate, so I plan to buy a external USB soundcard (EMU0404) to test it.
> 
> 3) My config of bit one is 4 channel input and 8 channel output. *All channel works well except output channel 7 and 8.* No sound produced when plug the AMP RCA fully -- which means contact both the RCA ground and signal. If only contact the signal, it has sound. Not sure if it is a defect or my config problem, need more time to debug.


What aftermarket amp are you using with this bit one?


----------



## efun

Technic said:


> What aftermarket amp are you using with this bit one?


Bit One output channel 1-4 to Audison VRx 4.300 for front tweeter and middle range speakers
Bit One output channel 5-8 to Audison LRx 4.1K for 8" underseat woofer and rear speakers.

To debug, I use the LRx 4.1K to test every output channel of bitone. The result is that channel 1-6 works well. Only channel 7&8 has problem.


----------



## Technic

efun said:


> Bit One output channel 1-4 to Audison VRx 4.300 for front tweeter and middle range speakers
> Bit One output channel 5-8 to Audison LRx 4.1K for 8" underseat woofer and rear speakers.
> 
> To debug, I use the LRx 4.1K to test every output channel of bitone. The result is that channel 1-6 works well. Only channel 7&8 has problem.


What about the 4.300... the same result with channels 7 & 8?

Did you try changing the channel assignments in the bit one to check if this is a channel designation (fixed channel number) or an assignment (type of speaker output in a particular channel) issue?


----------



## stefanbatory

Hi 
I would like to ask are there any problems whit changing firmware in the bitone by your self?


----------



## michaelsil1

stefanbatory said:


> Hi
> I would like to ask are there any problems with changing firmware in the bitone by your self?


If you follow the instructions you should be fine.


----------



## less

Never mind =)


----------



## AVIDEDTR

less said:


> Never mind =)


Did you try a firmware flash? Also did you check your remote voltage at the bitone level before it cut out?


----------



## Bibs

is it better to use the bitone with an aftermarket high end headunit or is it just as good if you use the stock headunit ?


----------



## Austin

Bibs said:


> is it better to use the bitone with an aftermarket high end headunit or is it just as good if you use the stock headunit ?


One of its main purpose is to integrate into stock headunits. Its more for the stock headunits that are integrated into the dash and for people who want to keep the stock look.


----------



## falkenbd

Austin said:


> One of its main purpose is to integrate into stock headunits. Its more for the stock headunits that are integrated into the dash and for people who want to keep the stock look.


It CAN be used without an aftermarket head unit.

Personally, I'd rather feed it RCA or optical than speaker level inputs.

It is probably better not to have to convert the factory signal, how much, I'm not sure.


----------



## ErinH

^ I dunno. I would think there's a benefit of feeding hi-level inputs into the bitone simply because of the less noise issues.

If you like the stock headunit, I see no reason not to use it in this case. I would if the stock civic stereo didn't suck (feature wise).


----------



## bmwm3

I'm in the process of replacing my audio system on my M3 and contemplating on adding this to my setup. Does it really make a difference?


----------



## ginster6

bmwm3 said:


> I'm in the process of replacing my audio system on my M3 and contemplating on adding this to my setup. Does it really make a difference?


on BMW it should be on MOST system. get a mobridge and run digital into it. what is what I am going to do.. as for right now it is running on hi-level into audison amp into OEM stock speaker.. and it sound that much better. after most important. tune it with a RTA program...


----------



## Technic

ginster6 said:


> *on BMW it should be on MOST system. * get a mobridge and run digital into it. what is what I am going to do.. as for right now it is running on hi-level into audison amp into OEM stock speaker.. and it sound that much better. after most important. tune it with a RTA program...


Not necessarily it "should be" on MOST. If the BMW sound system uses fiber optics between the OEM HU/iDrive and the OEM amp then a mObridge preamp_could be _ used, and still is not required. If there is no fiber optic at the OEM amp inputs then there's no use for a mObridge preamp as those inputs are analog.


----------



## basher8621

Does anyone know what the requirements are as far as memory. I am buying a laptop to use for the bitone only and want to ensure it will fit the needs of the bitone. Would a 1GB RAM with a 16GB hard drive suffice.


----------



## ErinH

Yea, that would be fine. 

I take it you're looking at a netbook with 16GB SSD? 


Per the manual:
"a PC provided with Windows XP or Vista operating system, 1.5 GHz minimum
processor speed and 1 GB RAM minimum memory, is required to
install the software and setup the Bit One."


----------



## basher8621

Yes it is a netbook with 16GB SSD. The processor speed on it is 1.6 GHz so that will be fine. Perfect. Thank you. My BitOne will be arriving today


----------



## ErinH

basher8621 said:


> Yes it is a netbook with 16GB SSD. The processor speed on it is 1.6 GHz so that will be fine. Perfect. Thank you. My BitOne will be arriving today


Enjoy.

My bit of advice is to dig up an extra monitor somewhere so you can run 2. Makes tuning a breeze from outside the car. When you do tuning by ear you won’t need it. But if you’re running RTA gear from outside the car, the 2nd monitor is a great thing to have. They’re cheap, too if you look around for a 15” or 17” screen


----------



## basher8621

Hmm. I have an extra screen just sitting around that I can use.


----------



## ErinH

I recommend using it.

I built a stand that I can roll around. I put my oscope and 2nd monitor on it. I bring the laptop out, set it on, hook everything up and I just pull it up to whatever I'm going to measure or scope and then get to work. Probably the most handy thing I've made as it gets a LOT of use. 
I use my laptop for the bitone software and the larger monitor you see in the picture for my RTA software.


----------



## less

Well I've been having a couple little annoying issues with my B1 and thought I'd see if anyone else has had them. For one, even though I've set the dynamic eq feature on and done the initial set up, it doen't show as on in my DRC screen and another is that it sometimes doesn't reset after making an adjustment, to its normal resting display mode. Since I finally have a friggin laptop, a cheapy RTA kit and a "regular" HU from which I can set the input levels again, I'm finally going to be able to really spend the time tweaking the tune job up! 

I'll probably flash the DRC and the B1 over again just to see if that fixes things up. It wouldn't surprise me if that gets things going correctly. 

Also, anyone have an issue with their system occassionally cutting out at high output levels with the B1 serving as the remote trigger? (power system is 100% sound including relay circuit) Does it cut out when it clips at a certain point or something? 

Less


----------



## ErinH

so far I haven't had any issues at all with my bitone. 

*crosses fingers*


----------



## quality_sound

less said:


> Well I've been having a couple little annoying issues with my B1 and thought I'd see if anyone else has had them. For one, even though I've set the dynamic eq feature on and done the initial set up, it doen't show as on in my DRC screen and another is that it sometimes doesn't reset after making an adjustment, to its normal resting display mode. Since I finally have a friggin laptop, a cheapy RTA kit and a "regular" HU from which I can set the input levels again, I'm finally going to be able to really spend the time tweaking the tune job up!
> 
> I'll probably flash the DRC and the B1 over again just to see if that fixes things up. It wouldn't surprise me if that gets things going correctly.
> 
> Also, anyone have an issue with their system occassionally cutting out at high output levels with the B1 serving as the remote trigger? (power system is 100% sound including relay circuit) Does it cut out when it clips at a certain point or something?
> 
> Less



Less,

I do not use the DRC so I can't help with that but I AM using my B1 as the turn on trigger for my Minis (3 of them) and even at _stupid_ listening levels it's never cut out. I'm thinking you might be feeding too much Voltage into the inputs. What HU are you running? 

Paul


----------



## michaelsil1

The Dynamic EQ has to be set in the Bit One and both high and low have to be saved before it will work.


----------



## less

Actually, I haven't fed the B1 and analog signal enough to know if it even happens when using it... so far, I think its only happened when I feed it a digital input. I use the media players coaxial output 99.9% of the time and those time I do use analog, its not for music, so I don't turn it up. I did just add a regular headunit to the system though - Pio 880prs, so I'll see if it does that with it at the source.

Thank goodness my laptop is on its way and I will be able to spend hours next weekend listening and tuning at the same time =) At least I was able to transfer pretty much the same eq settings I had in my old DRZ to the system when I first got it, so it sounds pretty good - but between the RTA, having constant access to a PC and actually having a regular head unit to work with, I'll be able to really make it shine!

Thanks for the info... Less


----------



## less

Ok, a little off topic... but its related. Now that my laptop is finally in my greedy little hands, its obvious that the battery isn't going to hold up long enough for serious tweeking sessions. So... what is the best way to feed the dang thing? Is a 12v to 120v power converter (that I'd plug laptops normal power adapter into - but could also work for other items if needed) good enough - or should i go whole hog and buy an official 12v to 19.5 adapter for it? 

Any recommendations for a Dell Inspiron 1525?

Less


----------



## Austin

less said:


> Ok, a little off topic... but its related. Now that my laptop is finally in my greedy little hands, its obvious that the battery isn't going to hold up long enough for serious tweeking sessions. So... what is the best way to feed the dang thing? Is a 12v to 120v power converter (that I'd plug laptops normal power adapter into - but could also work for other items if needed) good enough - or should i go whole hog and buy an official 12v to 19.5 adapter for it?
> 
> Any recommendations for a Dell Inspiron 1525?
> 
> Less



I would either A: use an extension cord. or B: get a 12V to 120V converter then plug the laptop in to that. Ive used them before and they are awesome. You will find many other uses for it. Ive actually used one when i was younger to play xbox on a long trip. To power a laptop you don't need a nice one though just the lowest end one will do fine.


----------



## data_mine

Just keep in mind you'll need some way to start your car after you run it flat with the stereo and laptop running off of the battery for hours.


----------



## Horsemanwill

ya don't do a me. if you do kill the battery save your settings before you loose it all lol


----------



## less

Hahahaha - ya, that sounds like something I'd do. I often keep the car running when listening... but thats not the smartest idea when taking measurements. 

I took a free hearing test today and am pretty happy. Six months from the big FIVE OH and I was able to hear a 20db signal in both ears (through a headset in a soundproof room) at 500, 1k, 2k and 4k. The left ear didn't get the 500hz signal till she brought it up to 25db, but that was still considered pretty good even for a college student - and they were testing 99% students in the audiology lab. 

Maybe that Ted Nugent concert at age 17 where half the audience literally left the stadium with their hands over their ears didn't cause as much damage as I thought!

I'll get some mid-level converter someplace with a good return policy - just in case. Thanks...


----------



## ErinH

be careful when tuning with the battery off and then turning the car on. When you do this, you'll cut power to the bitone and lose your work, too.


----------



## Norbert THOMAS

Hello everybody
i am in FRANCE and tell you my experience with bit one.
i have buy my bit one in FRANCE and the software, hardware are old.
i have update my drc and my bit one in version 1.5 with no probleme.
my installation was:
unit: alpine cda 7939 with changer cha 624
processeur: alpine prah 400
sub woofer: macrom techforce 10"
front woofer: seas ca18rly
front med on dashbord in sealed box: tangband w4-1320sd
tweeter: macrom ext28
amplifier: macrom synthesis 1000. (1 for subwoofer, 1 for woofer, 1 for med + tweeter in passive.
i have only change my processeur prah 400 for the bit one.
i use bit one with toslink entrance.
my view now:
no noise but a "plop" when my changer take a new disc but not between each plage.
the sound is better for me because its more warm and the dynamic is allready here.
it is minor numerique in the medium and the sound is like with an lamp amplifier.
sound stage is good and for my vehicule i use minor decatempo with bit one.
perhaps phase with crossover is better?
for me bit one is a good product but he have some little probleme.
the noise "plop" when optical stop for change a disc only on left channels.
whe cannot have a different slope when we have a pass band filter.
the plop is always present when i connect a hard disc (ARCHOS) with coaxial numerique connection and when the hard disc stop then bit one bug (make some noise) and i can't stop this. i might disconnect this with my fuse protection.
sorry for my english...


----------



## less

"...present when i connect a hard disc (ARCHOS) with coaxial numerique
connection..."

Hi and glad to hear from a new member here. I'm sorry but I don't understand your question or I'd give a shot at answering. I am very curious about which Archos has a digital output. I've looked at their gear for a long time wondering when they'd release something like that. What model number is it?

As for your English, I make it a point never to make a negative comment about someone elses second language, since I can barely handle just one! 

Good luck with your system.

Jim


----------



## stefanbatory

Hi 
I just bought my bitone. And I'am starting instalation, and have one stupid question. 
I will use optical input, do i have to use low level inputs for calibration of the bitone or can I just use the optical?
PS. sorry for my english


----------



## ErinH

yes, you have to use low level inputs to start it up. use a home cd or dvd player. that'll get you through the main setup screen and you can go from there.


----------



## Norbert THOMAS

Hello Jim
my ARCHOS is a old ARCHOS AV300 who have an entrance spdif with jack 3.5mm.
but this entrance can also is an output.


----------



## leogun

I just installed my bitone.1 yesterday, everything goes smooth, sounds wonderful, much better than pxa 701, better staging than hxd-2, but....

suddenly out of nowhere
the sound becomes very loud and messy for few second
seriously, it hurt my ears

luckily my system have passive x over between tweet and midrange, so my R7000 is ok

Anyone have any idea whats happening???


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^were you driving when this happened? If so, something could be loose. 

Make sure you do the calibration setup with the right track, and dont turn the volume on the head unit past what you did the calibration at.


----------



## basher8621

Did the power/ground come out? I had that happen to me. That is the worst part of the bitone to me, the screws that hold in the power/ground/remote wires.


----------



## ibanzil

^^^tru that...I hate those plugs. Tru technology uses them on their line driver, audiocontrol uses them on stuff too.


----------



## leogun

ibanzil said:


> ^^^^were you driving when this happened? If so, something could be loose.
> 
> Make sure you do the calibration setup with the right track, and dont turn the volume on the head unit past what you did the calibration at.





basher8621 said:


> Did the power/ground come out? I had that happen to me. That is the worst part of the bitone to me, the screws that hold in the power/ground/remote wires.


I doubt that anything are loose, but I'll check anyway
I did the calibration with the volume on, so i'll try to do the calibration again
but, i'm using the optical cable, is it making any different?

Thanks for your suggestions guys

I found some noises when changing CD's, and when unplug the optical cable.
I just found out that the strange sound only happen with dirty and scratches CD.
So i suspect there is something wrong with the optical input, Is is possible?


----------



## less

Anyone have a clue as to how to safely remove the cable from the digital remote control without tearing the wires out? I've tried firm pressure but good grief, the last thing I want to happen is to pull the wires out of the plug and have to buy a new one. It doesn't look like there is room on the connector for a moving release latch - but maybe I am missing something.

Jim


----------



## ibanzil

^^^ pry the little black a "U" piece that snaps over the connector up...then I use a tiny flat head to get the actual connector moving out. Once that U piece is up, it slides out pretty easy though.


----------



## IBcivic

i cut my d.r.c. cable about 18 inches from the unit and re-installed 2 male plugs[got em from the i-t guy at work] and put a $0.98 female to female adapter in between.

that way i don't need to F-around with that anorexic connector behind the d.r.c. when i need to take it out or remove my console.


----------



## less

Stinky, you are my hero! Thats exactly the sort of thing that I'd do! I'm scared to death to pry on it since mine seems to fit VERY tight. I assume you installed the telephone type males and female to female - not the type that is inside the DRC itself. Does it require a special tool?

I've built a little mount that holds my DRC, the remote control for my media player and the remote receiver wire for the media player... I'm mounting it on an angle from the dash (just below the A/C controls and the lower dash) so it runs down to rest on the ebrake - where I'll attach it firmly. This puts the controls to my entire system always in easy grasp and I've actually learned them by feel already... so I won't have to look down to adjust a thing unless I'm trying to do something complex like navigate to 58 minutes into a particular movie or something. Very handy - and hopefully permanent enough that I won't need to plug and unplug often.

Once I get it finished, I'll post it in my install thread. I'm working on one that will also hold my ipod - and may try making it out of a marble slab if I can figure out how to cut the stuff with a dremel tool =)

Less

Now I've got to decide if I am brave enough to go with the pry technique today or if I want to drop yet more money on yet another adapter today... these systems are like boats... a hole into which you throw money!


----------



## IBcivic

hey less, well there are the ''crimpless style plugs ,i believe , but they are a little bulkier,....but since our I-T guy makes all of his cables, he was nice enough to lend me the crimper. yes i did use the r-6 type telephone [males] on the cable itself and i used a fem/fem adaptor in between. cheap n dirty.


----------



## Natural

So pardon me for asking a simple but important question... Is this the best factory integration unit to buy at this point? Just a simple yes or no would do. I just want to buy the best the first time around. Thanks for humoring me.


----------



## ibanzil

Yes. I can't think of anything else that beats the bit1 in any category.


----------



## Natural

Excellent, that was easy, thank you.


----------



## less

Anyone else have an issue with the B1 software screen being too tall for their laptop screen? I've set my machine at its highest resolution and am using a Dell Inspiron 1545 that is pretty new - and sadly, Audison didn't provide an option to operate the software in a small window with scroll bars. As it is, I can barely read the frequencies on the eq and just a small amount can't be seen... but enough to be frustrating.

I've been using pcs for years and have never encountered ANY software that you could manage to fit fully onto your screen, so this is frustrating! Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Less


----------



## ibanzil

^^^^^was too big for my POS netbook I use. I had to change the screen resolution and have to scroll around non stop to fit it.

On my other laptop I just move the taskbar to the side and it fits perfect.


----------



## IBcivic

i have a 14'' screen and the window is only 75% the size of the screen....i'd like to make it bigger if anything
i'm old n blind


----------



## Tapchanger

Heared from a distributor that there is a new version of Bitone, claimed that fixed the noise issue of the older version.

Has anybody used the newer version?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Tapchanger said:


> Heared from a distributor that there is a new version of Bitone, claimed that fixed the noise issue of the older version.
> 
> Has anybody used the newer version?


Yes the BitOne.1


----------



## quality_sound

Tapchanger said:


> Heared from a distributor that there is a new version of Bitone, claimed that fixed the noise issue of the older version.
> 
> Has anybody used the newer version?


Dude, you REALLY gotta search before asking. The Bit One and Bit One.1 have both been discussed at length.


----------



## efun

Based on my experience, the Bitone.1 (firmware 1.5) was NOT noise free. The noise is low with master input. However, it become aloud whith TSOLINK input. The noise will double again when shutdown the car pc. (I use car pc to feed the digital signal to bitone) 

Another annoying problem is the the output of channel 7 & 8 ... no signal output

The bad thing is that I bought the bitone.1 from overseas (Australia), not easy to contact the dealer to debug the issue. Just contacted with a local dealer to ask for help, they said I can go their shop this weekend. Let's wait and see what they will find out.


----------



## michaelsil1

efun said:


> Based on my experience, the Bitone.1 (firmware 1.5) was NOT noise free. The noise is low with master input. However, it become aloud whith TSOLINK input. The noise will double again when shutdown the car pc. (I use car pc to feed the digital signal to bitone)
> 
> Another annoying problem is the the output of channel 7 & 8 ... no signal output
> 
> The bad thing is that I bought the bitone.1 from overseas (Australia), not easy to contact the dealer to debug the issue. Just contacted with a local dealer to ask for help, they said I can go their shop this weekend. Let's wait and see what they will find out.


Audison says no one has had noise issues with the new Bit One.1 other than the unit not being properly grounded. 
I sniveled a little when I was at Audison's warehouse yesterday and that's what they told me. 
On a very positive note they want me to come by so they can go over my system and track down what's really is going on. 
I wish other Company's were as easy to do business with, I have nothing but praise for Audison and the way they are dedicated to SQ.


----------



## [email protected]

^ I wish I had local access to Audison USA just in case an issue were to arise.

I'm still on the fence on picking one of these up just yet.


----------



## michaelsil1

[email protected] said:


> ^ *I wish I had local access to Audison USA just in case an issue were to arise.*
> 
> I'm still on the fence on picking one of these up just yet.


It is very nice! 


All my Amps are Audison Amps as well.


----------



## BigRed

In my experience, Audison will do for some, but not for others  The new version coming out is.....Bit.Me


----------



## Miguel mac

nice bit one


----------



## Miguel mac

nice bit one


----------



## quality_sound

michaelsil1 said:


> Audison says no one has had noise issues with the new Bit One.1 other than the unit not being properly grounded.
> I *sniveled* a little when I was at Audison's warehouse yesterday and that's what they told me.
> On a very positive note they want me to come by so they can go over my system and track down what's really is going on.
> I wish other Company's were as easy to do business with, I have nothing but praise for Audison and the way they are dedicated to SQ.


Sniveled or snickered???


----------



## michaelsil1

quality_sound said:


> Sniveled or snickered???


Snivel: weak, whining, or pretended weeping. I Sniveled

If I snickered I might have pissed them off.


I've been hit in the lanes (IASCA) for noise issues on the Zero Bit Track that I didn't have with just running the DRZ9255. When I'm taking measurements with my PC based RTA after five minutes I get this clacking sound that sounds similar to the noise I'm getting with the Zero Bit Track so I'm assuming that it's the Bit One.1 and not my HU. I'll go over to Audison and let them hear what I'm sniveling about.


----------



## quality_sound

oh, lol 

weird that you're getting noises. i've done zero bit tracks and they were dead silent. and that's using my OEM VW hu. very odd indeed.


----------



## michaelsil1

quality_sound said:


> oh, lol
> 
> weird that you're getting noises. i've done zero bit tracks and they were dead silent. and that's using my OEM VW hu. very odd indeed.


Yes it's odd, I get it using the Optical and Analog setting. It could very well be my DRZ, but I don't think so.


----------



## Dot1908

Does anyone here knows what is the big Blue disk like a ceramic capacitor that is in the Bitone that they used as an internal fuse?


Thanks a lot,
Dot


----------



## less

No clue on the big disc - but strongly recommend adding some sort of fuse prior the the bit one in the install stage.... save a possible "return the unit" issue for about $10 in cost. On the other hand, I have to admit I was very disappointed tht the bit one didn't include an external fuse in the kit - even though its internally fused... just to save the returns and hassles to their customers in the event that they mess up.

As for noise, I think I am going to try hooking up my system via the optical out of my media player and compare it to the coax input to test for noise. I know my Clarion was dead silent at full blast with a zero bit track but I just don't know with the B1. Still thought, the idea of auto-muting at minus 60db seemed like a very cheap way to deal with noise at low output levels and I am pretty sure that is why they chose to impliment that.

One last thing, it would have been pretty cool for Audison to include a system like the prs880 hu or the imprint system - while the systems aren't perfect, it would be nice to have that option and I'd love to see what it would do with my system. It can't be cost prohitibitive since its included in a h/u that you can buy for $250 =) Overal though, the bit one is a nice unit... can't believe Zapco decided to only allow for control of a two way system with their unit! Granted two way (w/sub) is most popular, the kind of people that will spend that kind of money on a processor are also the kind that like to try more advanced systems!

Less


----------



## It_Hertz

less said:


> One last thing, it would have been pretty cool for Audison to include a system like the prs880 hu or the imprint system - while the systems aren't perfect, it would be nice to have that option and I'd love to see what it would do with my system. It can't be cost prohitibitive since its included in a h/u that you can buy for $250 =)
> 
> Less


What system are you referring to?


----------



## efun

The no signal problem has been fixed which was caused by the installation. No issue with the bitone. But the noise of digital input still exsits. Here is my new config:

PC -> EMU0404 USB/SPDIF coax output -> Bitone.1 (firmware1.5)

The noise is same level as the PC onboard tsolink output and it only happen with digital input. The nosie is disappeared when switch to master input. If PC is shutdown which means no signal feed to bitone, the noise became louder 





efun said:


> Based on my experience, the Bitone.1 (firmware 1.5) was NOT noise free. The noise is low with master input. However, it become aloud whith TSOLINK input. The noise will double again when shutdown the car pc. (I use car pc to feed the digital signal to bitone)
> 
> Another annoying problem is the the output of channel 7 & 8 ... no signal output
> 
> The bad thing is that I bought the bitone.1 from overseas (Australia), not easy to contact the dealer to debug the issue. Just contacted with a local dealer to ask for help, they said I can go their shop this weekend. Let's wait and see what they will find out.


----------



## Dot1908

Do you guys have noise with Bitone.1 when you are running with the digital coaxial connection? especially when you are changing source or ejecting the cd from the players? And turn off pop too after the noise of ejecting the cd?


----------



## efun

Dot1908 said:


> Do you guys have noise with Bitone.1 when you are running with the digital coaxial connection? especially when you are changing source or ejecting the cd from the players? And turn off pop too after the noise of ejecting the cd?



Yes, there is a noise using coaxial. Tsolink has the same problem too. If shutdown the digital source (for your case, the palyer), the noise become alouder. I think it is bitone's problem.


----------



## data_mine

I experience the digital input (both coaxial and optical) noise with all the BitOne's (and the BitOne.1) I tested (which were all noisy on the master input too). 

I no longer have one.


----------



## Dot1908

wow, I only experienced noise issue from the digital coaxial connection, but not through the rca connection on the bitone.one.

Do you mean the noise that is in the master input is hiss?


----------



## data_mine

yeah hiss.

I went through 5 individual BitOne's (one had the digital 'beeping' from the DRC), and went to various shops (all audison dealers) to try and diagnose the car, etc. No one could find any problems.


----------



## leogun

efun said:


> The no signal problem has been fixed which was caused by the installation. No issue with the bitone. But the noise of digital input still exsits. Here is my new config:
> 
> PC -> EMU0404 USB/SPDIF coax output -> Bitone.1 (firmware1.5)
> 
> The noise is same level as the PC onboard tsolink output and it only happen with digital input. The nosie is disappeared when switch to master input. If PC is shutdown which means no signal feed to bitone, the noise became louder





Dot1908 said:


> wow, I only experienced noise issue from the digital coaxial connection, but not through the rca connection on the bitone.one.
> 
> Do you mean the noise that is in the master input is hiss?





data_mine said:


> yeah hiss.
> 
> I went through 5 individual BitOne's (one had the digital 'beeping' from the DRC), and went to various shops (all audison dealers) to try and diagnose the car, etc. No one could find any problems.


Same problem here
hiss noise when connected with optic and no noise when connected with master
also when changing disc there's a little popping noise
has been sent to the dealer in my country, and they said there's no problemo with the bit one, no repair or replacement needed
it seems the problems of noise is universal

Dont get mo wrong, i love the sound of it 
the clarity and separation is unsurpassed by any head unit i've ever heard
even the pxah701 sounds muddy now

But it seems we have to put up with the noise problem


----------



## Buzzman

leogun said:


> Same problem here
> hiss noise when connected with optic and no noise when connected with master
> also when changing disc there's a little popping noise
> has been sent to the dealer in my country, and they said there's no problemo with the bit one, no repair or replacement needed
> it seems the problems of noise is universal
> 
> Dont get mo wrong, i love the sound of it
> the clarity and separation is unsurpassed by any head unit i've ever heard
> even the pxah701 sounds muddy now
> 
> But it seems we have to put up with the noise problem


I have discussed this issue with Audison, and have been told in no uncertain terms that the noise heard when the Bit One.1 is connected with a head unit via the optical output/input is NOT a Bit One.1 problem. I get pops when I pause a cd, or switch tracks with my DRZ. It has been explained to be as follows: basically, the head unit is not sending the Bit One.1 a digital signal when a track is paused, or a track is skipped, and the Bit One essentially "shuts down." It then has to basically turn itself back on when the track begins playing. If the head unit left open what I will call the digital signal gate, we wouldn't have the noise. Audison COULD build some kind of interface that would fool the BitOne into thinking it was always seeing a digital signal through the optical interface, but from their perpsective, it's not THEIR problem to fix, particularly since the nature of the problem varies from one head unit to another. I can always just listen to the analog connection and avoid the noise issue. But, thus far, that has proven to be a less satisfactory option in terms of SQ.


----------



## basshead

Buzzman said:


> If the head unit left open what I will call the digital signal gate, we wouldn't have the noise. Audison COULD build some kind of interface that would fool the BitOne into thinking it was always seeing a digital signal through the optical interface, but from their perpsective, it's not THEIR problem to fix, particularly since the nature of the problem varies from one head unit to another. I can always just listen to the analog connection and avoid the noise issue. But, thus far, that has proven to be a less satisfactory option in terms of SQ.


is it the "laser beam" that shutdown when you pause? if it's the case maybe a simple repeater can solve this issue :shrug:


----------



## leogun

Buzzman said:


> I have discussed this issue with Audison, and have been told in no uncertain terms that the noise heard when the Bit One.1 is connected with a head unit via the optical output/input is NOT a Bit One.1 problem. I get pops when I pause a cd, or switch tracks with my DRZ. It has been explained to be as follows: basically, the head unit is not sending the Bit One.1 a digital signal when a track is paused, or a track is skipped, and the Bit One essentially "shuts down." It then has to basically turn itself back on when the track begins playing. If the head unit left open what I will call the digital signal gate, we wouldn't have the noise. Audison COULD build some kind of interface that would fool the BitOne into thinking it was always seeing a digital signal through the optical interface, but from their perpsective, it's not THEIR problem to fix, particularly since the nature of the problem varies from one head unit to another. I can always just listen to the analog connection and avoid the noise issue. But, thus far, that has proven to be a less satisfactory option in terms of SQ.


Thx for the answer Mr Buzzman
I agree, the optical sounds much better than analog 
I'm glad to know that it will not fix the problems even if i got the replacement
pretty content with mine now

If its not bit one problems, it must be the HU or optical cable(I doubt it)

the question is...

What's the recomended HU that perfectly compatible with Bit one?? 

I'm using 7998R, I'm willing to replace it, if there's a better suited one


----------



## leogun

Anyone???

Any Head unit that perfectly compatible with bitone??

If no HU compatible, than.........:surprised:


----------



## quality_sound

My OEM VW HU worked fine...


----------



## Buzzman

leogun said:


> Anyone???
> 
> Any Head unit that perfectly compatible with bitone??
> 
> If no HU compatible, than.........:surprised:


I don't understand your question. ALL head units are compatible with the Bit One.1. If you are asking whether there is a head unit that can be connected optically with the Bit One.1 and not have any noise related issues, I am not aware of one. I suggest simply getting the best head unit you can afford. If it can be connected to the Bit One.1 via an optical connection, connect it via that output as well as the analog outputs and listen to both. Then use the one you think sounds better.


----------



## leogun

Buzzman said:


> I don't understand your question. ALL head units are compatible with the Bit One.1. If you are asking whether there is a head unit that can be connected optically with the Bit One.1 and not have any noise related issues, I am not aware of one. I suggest simply getting the best head unit you can afford. If it can be connected to the Bit One.1 via an optical connection, connect it via that output as well as the analog outputs and listen to both. Then use the one you think sounds better.


Thats exactly my question Sir

Definitely Optical connection sounds much better than analog

What really annoy me is the statement from audison that the noise issue with optical connection is not their problem:mean:
if Every single head unit in the market producing noise, hence it is not HU related problem
But it is Bit one Optical connection problem

BTW nice merz Mr Buzz


----------



## leogun

quality_sound said:


> My OEM VW HU worked fine...


I'm guessing here

You must be using analog connection
no issue in analog connection

it is the optical connection that have noise problems


----------



## quality_sound

Yes, but you didn't ask if anyone had a problem free digital setup.


----------



## leogun

quality_sound said:


> Yes, but you didn't ask if anyone had a problem free digital setup.


The problem seems to be universal mate
if you read previous posts, they complain the same thing

Let me change my question

Anyone-anybody who doesn't have noise problem with optical connection,
Please tell me your HeadUnit


----------



## leogun

quality_sound said:


> A friend of mine, and member here, has a bit One.1 in two of his own cars running optically and there is ZERO noise floor. Dead silent. He's using Toslink for both.


Dude, could you please tell me whats your friends HU

Thanks in advance


----------



## G-rig

quality_sound said:


> My OEM VW HU worked fine...


Me too, sounds was very clear, good separation and absolutley NO noise/hiss (could crank the HU up to max and hear nothing). That's using speaker level in, haven't tried the other inputs.

Worked fine, but not perfect. As you know there is a turn on pop problem due to the nature of the OEM HU having standby/sleep modes when you unlock the car, and the unit has a HDD that spins up.

The pop was quite fierce (could have needed some ground reinforcing) but at best case you'll still get a small pop. Doesn't work 100% like oem with this unit and still got the pop when it was wired to ignition


----------



## AccordUno

quality_sound said:


> My OEM VW HU worked fine...


Which HU? I'm looking at either swapping out the Monsoon setup in my B5.5 Wagon or doing my A4 with the Symphony HU.. Please expand on this.. Thanks


----------



## quality_sound

RNS-510. Like Greg said above, with any of the navi HUs they fire up when you unlock the car so you're very likely to get a turn on pop unless you unlock and start the car before the Bit One finishes it's turn on sequence.


----------



## JayinMI

So, from the sounds of it, some sort of muting circuit would be needed in between the optical out and the input to the bit one. If it sees 0-bit tracks, it doesn't send a signal? Kind of like a noise gate, but for digital...but then I imagine you would get popping when it turned back on.

Jay


----------



## 03blueSI

Personally I have no issues attributable to the bit one. I am using the .1 and if it is on the optical input and no signal I get hiss. As long as it is fed a digital signal there is no noise or pops between tracks from my DVA-9965. If I shut it down with the optical input active 1/10 times I get a turn off pop.

My other issue I am sure is because of my RCA run. I get very slight alternator whine and the reason I suspect the RCA run is because I do not get this when I am using optical. The only thing I have to run over RCA is my iPod since the DVA-9965 does not send a digital signal from the iPod interface.


----------



## G-rig

As mentioned above I've only used the unit with high level speaker inputs, but was considering getting an aftermarket headunit sometime. The OEM HU signal still isn't as good as an aftermarket one.

Just wondering what type of digital signal works best, and whether any brands have problems working together (ie using it with Eclipse, Kenwood, Pioneer Nav units).

Cheers,


----------



## YellowC4S

Time for a new car, Audi S5. I want to do some kind of OEM integration. I have the B&O system and want to change the Amps and the Sub. From what I can tell, it is fiber from the HU to the factory amps. Would the Bit One solve my problems?

Thank You in Advance


----------



## G-rig

i'm interested to know which factory decks have an optical out as well, would make the sound much cleaner starting with a good signal. I didn't know that BMW had that yet?


----------



## quality_sound

BMW uses optical out on the former Logic 7 system and in the current Enhanced Perium system. Unfortunately the EP/L7 outputs are equalized inside the HU so it's cleaner using the analog outputs. For EP/L7 car it's just a programming change.


----------



## Technic

YellowC4S said:


> Time for a new car, Audi S5. I want to do some kind of OEM integration. I have the B&O system and want to change the Amps and the Sub. From what I can tell, it is fiber from the HU to the factory amps.* Would the Bit One solve my problems?*
> 
> Thank You in Advance


No... the bit one.1 accepts _Toslink_, not MOST. 

You need either a MOST>Toslink preamp or change the output coding of the OEM HU/Nav with VCDS before the bit one.1.


----------



## YellowC4S

can you elaborate? I was under the impression the BitOne accepted coax as well


----------



## Technic

YellowC4S said:


> can you elaborate? I was under the impression the BitOne accepted coax as well


What I meant with Toslink is the S/PDIF data stream _protocol_, not the _connection _itself. Toslink or coaxial connection in the bit one will use S/PDIF. 

MOST is a different digital protocol, so either it needs to be converted into S/PDIF Toslink (there are two converters available, MotusLab and mObridge) or the OEM HU in question could be recoded to output analog depending of the particular unit capabilities. 

For example, BMW Professional OEM HU/iDrive can be coded to output either analog (low level balanced or high level signal depending of model application) or MOST by using the Autologic software diganostic tool. In the case of Audi _I would assume_ that the same can be accomplished by VCDS if the unit is actually capable of dual output, i.e., if the exact unit is used in analog OEM systems.


----------



## G-rig

data_mine said:


> yeah hiss.
> 
> I went through 5 individual BitOne's (one had the digital 'beeping' from the DRC), and went to various shops (all audison dealers) to try and diagnose the car, etc. No one could find any problems.


Sorry to hear you got rid of it. What about using the RCA inputs? I know digital is the best in theory but would it not have sounded just as good with RCA and was there any hiss?

Interested to know what head unit & car it was with too.



leogun said:


> Definitely Optical connection sounds much better than analog


I couldn't tell any difference between the Ai-net cable and optical when i was running the H701 and is rarely the weak point in the system..


----------



## leogun

G-rig said:


> Sorry to hear you got rid of it. What about using the RCA inputs? I know digital is the best in theory but would it not have sounded just as good with RCA and was there any hiss?
> 
> Interested to know what head unit & car it was with too.
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't tell any difference between the Ai-net cable and optical when i was running the H701 and is rarely the weak point in the system..


Trust me mate, i've tried both RCA and Optical
No hiss and pops with RCA but the SQ diff is quiet significant
otherwise i wouldn't complain about optical input hiss & pop if there's no diff
between them
I might just use the RCA


----------



## G-rig

leogun said:


> Trust me mate, i've tried both RCA and Optical
> No hiss and pops with RCA but the SQ diff is quiet significant
> otherwise i wouldn't complain about optical input hiss & pop if there's no diff
> between them
> I might just use the RCA


Well perhaps the RCA is low quality?

If you can hear the difference over road noise and while driving you're doing well


----------



## Technic

It seems to me that these digital input noise issues with the bit one could be caused by the analog level inputs used at the calibration stage; the analog input is somewhat too high so the bit one generate hiss when the digital input is used. That would be a bug in the code in any other digital product, but then Audison designed this processor to calibrate only with analog inputs regardless of the type of input used. 

Which it does not make any technical sense to me as even a cheapo home theater system can be controlled and calibrated with Toslink/HDMI up to the analog ouputs without the need of an analog input signal. 

Somebody with that problem should try calibrating the unit with a lower analog level than the one used before and listen for a difference.


----------



## matthewo

i am using my bitone with my stock headunit using the high level inputs

i am also using the optical digital input / toslink from a wdtv live

both sound fine and i havent noticed any noise problems., actually playing flac lossless music through the wdtv live sounds pretty dang good... too bad the bitone locks up at 48khz sample rate. but i have yet to try one.


----------



## roduk

Ok, hopefully with all the Bitone expertise here I'll be able to sort this quik enough 

I have a Bitone S With Firmware and DRC Firmware all upgraded to 1.5. I am using a MX406 through analogue inputs and I have hiss  It is not related to engine revs or volume, it just seems to have a high noise floor - MC4000M amp

Help me out?? What should I check??


----------



## michaelsil1

roduk said:


> Ok, hopefully with all the Bitone expertise here I'll be able to sort this quik enough
> 
> I have a Bitone S With Firmware and DRC Firmware all upgraded to 1.5. I am using a MX406 through analogue inputs and I have hiss  It is not related to engine revs or volume, it just seems to have a high noise floor - MC4000M amp
> 
> Help me out?? What should I check??


I'll be the first to tell you to get the Bit One.1; I had problems with the S version.


----------



## roduk

michaelsil1 said:


> I'll be the first to tell you to get the Bit One.1; I had problems with the S version.


I have had a bitone.1 and had the same problem, gave up and installed an Arc DXE, which doesn't have the db cut needed for my horns... I sold the .1 about a month ago and a friend has lent me the .S to try with the horns - it sounds fapping amazing, but I have this real low level hiss that I would love to get rid of..


----------



## duckymcse

How noticeable is the hiss? On mine, I do have the hiss but it is barely noticeable. I have to park my car still with no engine on in order for me to really notice it.



roduk said:


> Ok, hopefully with all the Bitone expertise here I'll be able to sort this quik enough
> 
> I have a Bitone S With Firmware and DRC Firmware all upgraded to 1.5. I am using a MX406 through analogue inputs and I have hiss  It is not related to engine revs or volume, it just seems to have a high noise floor - MC4000M amp
> 
> Help me out?? What should I check??


----------



## roduk

duckymcse said:


> How noticeable is the hiss? On mine, I do have the hiss but it is barely noticeable. I have to park my car still with no engine on in order for me to really notice it.


Yes that sort of level. Problem is I'm used to passive and that was so quiet the silence was black and I love that sound... Nothing then BAM! Loud transient attack! Now I'm just listening to the hiss


----------



## duckymcse

With no music playing, when you increase the volume, does the hiss sound increase?



roduk said:


> Yes that sort of level. Problem is I'm used to passive and that was so quiet the silence was black and I love that sound... Nothing then BAM! Loud transient attack! Now I'm just listening to the hiss


----------



## Buzzman

roduk said:


> Ok, hopefully with all the Bitone expertise here I'll be able to sort this quik enough
> 
> I have a Bitone S With Firmware and DRC Firmware all upgraded to 1.5. I am using a MX406 through analogue inputs and I have hiss  It is not related to engine revs or volume, it just seems to have a high noise floor - MC4000M amp
> 
> Help me out?? What should I check??


It's very hard to help you without actually sitting in your car and hearing the "hiss" you are referring to. You can make things easier for us if you clarify the following: is the "hiss" evident when music is not playing? Assuming that the answer to that question is yes, it could be that you don't have a proper gain structure. So, I suggest you try reinstalling your Bit One, paying close attention to sending the maximum non-clipped output voltage from your head unit to the BitOne so that its input sensitivity is optimized. I assume you are not able to use test tones and an oscilloscope, so do the following: Turn the gains on your amp(s) all the way down to 0. Turn your head unit volume to approximately 75% of its total volume level. Run the set-up CD and install the Bit One. Then go to the Output Level screen on your PC and set the output levels for each speaker set-up you are using to -3, and set the BitOne's volume level to 0. Next, you will set the gains for each speaker set you are using. Go to the DSP screen. You will start the gain setting process with your tweeters. Mute the outputs to your midranges, etc. Put on some dynamic, full range music from one of the Sheffield or Chesky CDs, and slowly turn up the gains on the amp or channels of that amp powering that particular speaker set till you hear distortion, and dial it back just a bit till the distortion goes away. Repeat the process for each speaker pair. See if you still hear the "hiss" then.


----------



## JayinMI

Has anyone else had any problems with the BitOne.1, where parts of the letters randomly disappear on the DRC? 

I'll post some pics up later, but it started with parts of the V in Vol disappearing, then 3/4 of the V and then randomly parts of other letters, and occassionally a horizontal line through "Audison"


Jay


----------



## Buzzman

JayinMI said:


> Has anyone else had any problems with the BitOne.1, where parts of the letters randomly disappear on the DRC?
> 
> I'll post some pics up later, but it started with parts of the V in Vol disappearing, then 3/4 of the V and then randomly parts of other letters, and occassionally a horizontal line through "Audison"
> 
> 
> Jay


This is the first I have heard of this issue. Sounds like it might be an LCD related issue with the DRC, and a replacement might be in order. I have seen that with other LCD displays, such as the PPI DCX 730.


----------



## JayinMI

Kinda what I thought, but I just wondered if it was common or if I was just lucky 

Jay


----------



## Buzzman

JayinMI said:


> Kinda what I thought, but I just wondered if it was common or if I was just lucky
> 
> Jay


Jay, I think you mean UNlucky.


----------



## less

If anyone is having a hiss issue when listening to silence, playing a zero bit track or when the digital source that feeds the b11 is off, please check out this thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...digital-input-noise-resolved.html#post1040793

(Noye: this issue doesn't happen often and is a pretty small deal for me. I only got around to looking into it a year after purchase since I was worried my unit might have a trouble. When ANY musical signal hits the digi inputs, the slight hiss completely disappears! Its occurs only with one brand of car cd player and Xboxes/media players... and even then its very minor. )

I have this issue and recently called Audison... lo and behold, they had both an explanation and a cure! There is nothing wrong with your bit one! The cure also muts all 5.1 signals you accidentally send to your B11 and also down converts stereo music recorded above 48khz to a playable output! (48, 44.1 and lower signals are left alone) Sounds sort of handy to me!

Jim


----------



## roduk

duckymcse said:


> With no music playing, when you increase the volume, does the hiss sound increase?


No, it doesn't increase, it remains constant.



Buzzman said:


> It's very hard to help you without actually sitting in your car and hearing the "hiss" you are referring to. You can make things easier for us if you clarify the following: is the "hiss" evident when music is not playing? Assuming that the answer to that question is yes, it could be that you don't have a proper gain structure. So, I suggest you try reinstalling your Bit One, paying close attention to sending the maximum non-clipped output voltage from your head unit to the BitOne so that its input sensitivity is optimized. I assume you are not able to use test tones and an oscilloscope, so do the following: Turn the gains on your amp(s) all the way down to 0. Turn your head unit volume to approximately 75% of its total volume level. Run the set-up CD and install the Bit One. Then go to the Output Level screen on your PC and set the output levels for each speaker set-up you are using to -3, and set the BitOne's volume level to 0. Next, you will set the gains for each speaker set you are using. Go to the DSP screen. You will start the gain setting process with your tweeters. Mute the outputs to your midranges, etc. Put on some dynamic, full range music from one of the Sheffield or Chesky CDs, and slowly turn up the gains on the amp or channels of that amp powering that particular speaker set till you hear distortion, and dial it back just a bit till the distortion goes away. Repeat the process for each speaker pair. See if you still hear the "hiss" then.



Thankyou for such a comprehensive reply. I did exactly as instructed and the hiss is still there  (I think I know the hiss that you are referring to though, if the gains on the amp are up at 50% and I push the bitone output above say -7db it creates a (different) hissing) So the bitone output remains at below -7db.... Heres my scenario again..

If I disconnect RCA from HU to Processor, hiss remains

If I disconnect RCA from Processor to amp, hiss goes..

If I bypass Processor with RCA from HU going straight into amp, hiss goes..

Recalibrated Processor with outboard home CD player, hiss remains

I only have an analog signal going in, I see the previous post about noise on the digital input, but this does not affect me


----------



## brett.b10

Hi Rod

i run an mx 406 , bit one.1 into an mc440/431 and i m not experiencing any hiss, the caveate to this is before my signal goes into the bit one it goes through a ucs ui4 line driver and my gains on the 2 mc amplifiers are set at 0
do you have access to a line driver ?

Brett (bert1959 on talk audio)


----------



## roduk

brett.b10 said:


> Hi Rod
> 
> i run an mx 406 , bit one.1 into an mc440/431 and i m not experiencing any hiss, the caveate to this is before my signal goes into the bit one it goes through a ucs ui4 line driver and my gains on the 2 mc amplifiers are set at 0
> do you have access to a line driver ?
> 
> Brett (bert1959 on talk audio)



Hi Brett,

Bizarrely I have a UCS ui4 on the shelf (I too had a UCS pro ) So before the line driver was installed were you experiencing hiss??

Thanks


----------



## brett.b10

sorry Rod

I never tried it , but if you have a ui4 its worth a try, the only noise in my system is analouge recording noise and a noisey transport mec in the 406 but in its defense it is 15 years old , poor old girl !!


----------



## roduk

brett.b10 said:


> sorry Rod
> 
> I never tried it , but if you have a ui4 its worth a try, the only noise in my system is analouge recording noise and a noisey transport mec in the 406 but in its defense it is 15 years old , poor old girl !!


Ok, thanks Brett, tried it today and no difference 

I tried setting up the bitone with a home hifi cd transport too, and I still have the hiss  The noise is in the bitone


----------



## efun

I have used bitone.1 more than half an year. Here is my observation about the hiss problem. 

1) With master/RCA input, the hiss is very low and hardly to notice unless you are in a very quiet environment. I think it is acceptable.
2) With SPDIF input, the hiss is very noticable if no signal input to bitone. The hiss become low when play music or feed binary 0 to it, but it still loulder than master input. 

Anyway, I think the hiss probem is ok since we mostly listen music on the road. What I complain is that bitone does not reject the unconsequential signals. Here is my case:

I used the hiFace (M2tech - homepage) to convert the PC usb digital audio to SPDIF. When the PC is power on, bitone has very aloud noise and the nosie is so big that bitone is restart itself (maybe to protect the speakers). This repeats until windows is startup. I send mail to m2tech and their engieer said:

During start-up hiFace probably emits some unconsequential signals which are generally rejected by the DAC receiver, because they probably don't complain to the S/PDIF standard

I tested hiFace with my home DAC, no noise. So I think it is a bug of bitone and hope audison fix it in the futher.


----------



## EternalGraphics808

Only issue I have had with the B1 so far, was at higher volumes with lots of bass.. it would cut out, then turn back on with an extreme amount of "digital" noise. But lately it hasnt done that.


----------



## Buzzman

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Only issue I have had with the B1 so far, was at higher volumes with lots of bass.. it would cut out, then turn back on with an extreme amount of "digital" noise. But lately it hasnt done that.


Did you ever switch to the output level screen to see whether you were clipping the outputs by having your gains set too high?


----------



## EternalGraphics808

I did. None of the green lights went red.


----------



## Buzzman

EternalGraphics808 said:


> I did. None of the green lights went red.


LOL. Man, when you see green lights you are clipping the outputs of the BitOne. There are no red lights. No wonder you were having the issue you described. Read page 32 of the manual.

First you need to confirm that you are not sending a clipped signal from your head unit to the BitOne. Did you determine at which volume setting your head unit clips? That is the volume level at which you run the I/O Configuration for the Bit One, and you CANNOT turn your volume knob higher than that setting if you are using the analog connection for your music playback. That is why I strongly advocate using the DRC to control your volume. Just leave your head unit at that volume level and don't touch it again unless someone changes it. Once that volume level is set, play the most dynamic (not loudest) recording you have and watch the lights on the output level screen. You need to use a recording with great dynamic range to get the best results. If a light blinks, you are clipping that output and you need to either reduce any EQ boosts you have on that particular speaker, or reduce your output level, till the light no longer blinks. I recommend reducing any EQ boosts first.

Good luck!


----------



## EternalGraphics808

Sorry.. Forgive my ignorance... I meant, I didnt see any of the lights turn green. They were all "off" Still green.. just not lighted up. Havent been in the car for a few days.. Forgot what the screen looked like


----------



## Buzzman

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Sorry.. Forgive my ignorance... I meant, I didnt see any of the lights turn green. They were all "off" Still green.. just not lighted up. Havent been in the car for a few days.. Forgot what the screen looked like


If the lights come on, they will be green, meaning that the outputs are being clipped. So, you need to follow the process I outline above if you want to get the most enjoyment out of your BitOne.


----------



## efun

efun said:


> I have used bitone.1 more than half an year. Here is my observation about the hiss problem.
> 
> 1) With master/RCA input, the hiss is very low and hardly to notice unless you are in a very quiet environment. I think it is acceptable.
> 2) With SPDIF input, the hiss is very noticable if no signal input to bitone. The hiss become low when play music or feed binary 0 to it, but it still loulder than master input.
> 
> Anyway, I think the hiss probem is ok since we mostly listen music on the road. What I complain is that bitone does not reject the unconsequential signals. Here is my case:
> 
> I used the hiFace (M2tech - homepage) to convert the PC usb digital audio to SPDIF. When the PC is power on, bitone has very aloud noise and the nosie is so big that bitone is restart itself (maybe to protect the speakers). This repeats until windows is startup. I send mail to m2tech and their engieer said:
> 
> During start-up hiFace probably emits some unconsequential signals which are generally rejected by the DAC receiver, because they probably don't complain to the S/PDIF standard
> 
> I tested hiFace with my home DAC, no noise. So I think it is a bug of bitone and hope audison fix it in the futher.


It seems that the new bitone accessary called SFC can fix such prolbem. But how about the quality of SFC, does it damage the SQ since it re-sample the signal. it is a active or passive converter? I think that the output SQ largely depends on the SFC quality. Anyone has used this device?


----------



## djdownfawl

I need help connecting the audison bit one to my eclpise 7200 mk ii.
Can somebody help me out please.
Thank you


----------



## Buzzman

djdownfawl said:


> I need help connecting the audison bit one to my eclpise 7200 mk ii.
> Can somebody help me out please.
> Thank you


It would be helpful if you indicated what kind of help you needed. But, the manual is pretty clear on how to install. Have you looked at the manual?


----------



## efun

I found that SPDIF input was louder than MASTER. How to set the MASTER volume individually? so the sound will keep on same level when swith the mode via DRC


----------



## Buzzman

efun said:


> I found that SPDIF input was louder than MASTER. How to set the MASTER volume individually? so the sound will keep on same level when swith the mode via DRC


My original response to your post was deleted when the forum had its recent problems, so I will try and restate it again. 

I assume that this is an issue for you only because you are also using a non-digital source. But, I don't think you can do what you wish to do. The Master input level is tied to the output voltage of your head unit and that is how the input sensitivity of the BitOne is determined during the I/O Configuration. You might try connecting another set of RCAs to one of the Aux Inputs, run the I/O configuration wizard again, designate that Aux input during the set-up, and after the set-up is done, select that Aux input and go to the "Ext. EQ Source" screen and use the EQ and input sensitivity controls to try and match the output levels of the SPDIF when using a digital source. I don't know if this will work, but it's all I can think of at the moment. You should also try contacting Audison as they may have a better answer.


----------



## Q-Authority

Since I was planning on possibly using the Bit.1 in a similar setup later on, I have a question/comment regarding the supposedly mismatched levels between the analog and digital inputs, which was just brought up.

I'm not knocking Audison, but do they really not have input sensitivity controls, for all of their inputs, which could be used for this issue? In this case, I guess I would be referring to having an input sensitivity control for any digital input, in order to match it properly with the Master analog input. I can see how you would not want to go about altering the Master analog input once you had that set, but I too would want balanced sound from all of my inputs, and doubt there are many home receivers that do not have that capability these days. I would have assumed that it would have been included in the Bit.1 as well.


----------



## EternalGraphics808

Any news on the new firmware update for the B1?


----------



## achterkg

Still no one with experience on the SFC accessory?

Recently I also bought a bitone to use with my Audi MMI 2G (without preamp/toslink) and I also have a small noise issue. Even when I have the volume of the remote set to MUTE I still hear a minor noise from the tweeters which is annoying. The positive side is that it does not get worse when I increase the volume (only above -5db it gets more noticeable).

Are there other people who have solved this issue preferably also in combination with Audi MMI? 

Thanks for your replies.


----------



## _Dejan_

achterkg said:


> Still no one with experience on the SFC accessory?
> 
> Recently I also bought a bitone to use with my Audi MMI 2G (without preamp/toslink) and I also have a small noise issue. Even when I have the volume of the remote set to MUTE I still hear a minor noise from the tweeters which is annoying. The positive side is that it does not get worse when I increase the volume (only above -5db it gets more noticeable).
> 
> Are there other people who have solved this issue preferably also in combination with Audi MMI?
> 
> Thanks for your replies.


Hi I have SFC at home but I didn't test it because Im make other solution before Im get back my BitOne and one of first prototype SFC device...


----------



## Buzzman

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Any news on the new firmware update for the B1?


I have been told that we won't see the new update till about October/November, after the release of the new "entry level" processor.


----------



## ISTundra

Buzz, do you know any details on the new entry level processor, capability-wise? Is it going to be akin to the JL Cleansweep?

Also, know anything about any new features in the next gen B1? I've heard auto-tune is a possibility. I have an MS-8 onhand, but I may hold off for an improved B1.


----------



## ErinH

Buzzman said:


> I have been told that we won't see the new update till about October/November, after the release of the new "entry level" processor.


We were hearing rumors of an update circa Spring/Summer 2009 and it never happened. If they'd simply fix the issue with being stuck at the same crossover slope on bandpass this processor would be virtually flawless, imo.

I'd kill for different slopes. Until then, the only option one has is to use their amps' built in crossover slopes as well.


----------



## achterkg

_Dejan_ said:


> Hi I have SFC at home but I didn't test it because Im make other solution before Im get back my BitOne and one of first prototype SFC device...


What other solution did you go for?


----------



## Buzzman

ISTundra said:


> Buzz, do you know any details on the new entry level processor, capability-wise? Is it going to be akin to the JL Cleansweep?
> 
> Also, know anything about any new features in the next gen B1? I've heard auto-tune is a possibility. I have an MS-8 onhand, but I may hold off for an improved B1.


Todd, my info. is that the "entry level" unit will have High Level and speaker level inputs (4 or 6 channels), 6 outputs, most likely will not have separate channel EQ like the Bit One, but rather just left and right covering all channels, will be manual in operation, such as with gain setting, and not sure if it will be 24 bit based processing. As far as the Bit One goes, the word I have is that it will have a firmware update after the "entry level" processor is introduced that will allow the user to select different slopes on bandpass settings, as well as possibly some other features (no details offered) being incorporated into the entry level unit. The "entry level" unit is still being finalized, and is likely a couple of months or so away from introduction.


----------



## Buzzman

bikinpunk said:


> We were hearing rumors of an update circa Spring/Summer 2009 and it never happened. If they'd simply fix the issue with being stuck at the same crossover slope on bandpass this processor would be virtually flawless, imo.
> 
> I'd kill for different slopes. Until then, the only option one has is to use their amps' built in crossover slopes as well.


Erin, all I can tell you is that it WILL happen.  Most likely, before the end of the year.


----------



## less

To whoever was asking about the SFC, I was sent one last week and wrote an initial review here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/88509-quick-review-new-bit-one-accessory-sample-frequency-converter.html and it includes a couple pics to give you a better idea of what the unit looks like.

The only hiss issue I know of with bit ones only happens when you connect a digital device that doesn't supply a constant carrier frequency - according the the tech folks, there is only one car head unit with a digital output that doesn't have this while every other test model did have a carrier... so people like me who have media players or odd devices had a small amount of hiss when the unit was set in the mute mode only. One click over, and the hiss stopped. 

The SFC seems to have stopped this.


----------



## _Dejan_

achterkg said:


> What other solution did you go for?


Audio processing on CarPC  And now also testing miniDSP ...


----------



## michahobbs

Regarding opamps discussed back on page 2 of this thread - does anyone know if it is possible or even practical to upgrade the opamps in the .1 version?

I 'm looking to match as close as possible to those in Brax graphic edition amps.


----------



## michaelsil1

michahobbs said:


> Regarding opamps discussed back on page 2 of this thread - does anyone know if it is possible or even practical to upgrade the opamps in the .1 version?
> 
> I 'm looking to match as close as possible to those in Brax graphic edition amps.


I asked someone that was intimately familiar with the Bit One about that and he said it wasn't worth it.


----------



## ET328

bikinpunk said:


> Example: Use your headunit’s front outputs and subwoofer outputs only, not using the rear outputs. You would likely split all your front stage signal off the front outputs from the headunit going to channels 1 & 2 input on the bit one, but have a dedicated sub control from the headunit going to channel 7/8 on the bit one, too. During setup, you just tell your bit one what channel inputs correspond to which channel outputs. So, then if you wanted to control the subs level from the headunit, you can.
> If you use the rear outputs, too, say on midbass, you would use the headunits fade feature to control the output on the midbasses.


(sorry to dig up old post)
I don't yet own a Bit One but I have downloaded the software. I'm now wondering where do you select what input corresponds to what output? In I/O Configuration Wizard you can just select what inputs are used and what outputs are used but there is no way to select for example that rear channel input goes to subwoofer output channels. Is input-output mapping selection only available when Bit One is connected or am I missing something obvious?


----------



## pyropoptrt

ET328, it's been a while since I've played with the software but under the configuration wizard you should be able to set which output channel you want whatever speaker on.


----------



## ET328

pyropoptrt said:


> ET328, it's been a while since I've played with the software but under the configuration wizard you should be able to set which output channel you want whatever speaker on.


Yes, but speaker selection doesn't allow to link one input to just one output. Looks like Bit One just sums all the inputs to left and right channels and then you select where/what type of speaker you want to output those two channels. If that is the case, then it's not possible to do what bikinpunk wrote in his earlier message.


----------



## ErinH

I'm pretty sure, though it's been a long time since I've set it up like this, that the input selection can be mapped (ie: input 1 is left front, input 2 is right front, input x is sub, etc) and then you simply map the input to the output you want. I'd have to dig up the setup again to verify, but I'm quite certain that's how I had it set up because I was able to independently control the subwoofer volume from the deck. It's been so long, though, that I can't guarantee it.


----------



## ET328

Subwoofer volume from the headunit works even if Bit One just sums all the inputs. In that case sub volume just raises bass content in the summed signal but it does not directly go to the sub output. 

The thing I'm after: can I map my deck's rear channels to Bit One's subwoofer output so that I could control sub level with deck's fader. So far it looks like Bit One is just two channel device so that's impossible to do.


----------



## ErinH

well, if that's the conclusion you've come to, then that's about it...
I'm sorry to have led you astray via my comment. I don't have the means to look in to why/how I thought you could do that, but I swear it seems like I was able to independently map that input to that output. Hopefully you can figure out a workaround to your issue.


----------



## Buzzman

ET328 said:


> Subwoofer volume from the headunit works even if Bit One just sums all the inputs. In that case sub volume just raises bass content in the summed signal but it does not directly go to the sub output.
> 
> The thing I'm after: can I map my deck's rear channels to Bit One's subwoofer output so that I could control sub level with deck's fader. So far it looks like Bit One is just two channel device so that's impossible to do.


You will have to control the sub level from the DRC controller. If you were able to do what you are contemplating you would end up changing the input sensitivity and gain levels of the BitOne as that is all determined based on the signal received from the head unit during set-up.


----------



## ET328

Buzzman said:


> You will have to control the sub level from the DRC controller. If you were able to do what you are contemplating you would end up changing the input sensitivity and gain levels of the BitOne as that is all determined based on the signal received from the head unit during set-up.


But I would use head unit's volume, and set Bit One's volume fixed to almost full, so those will change anyway.


----------



## Buzzman

ET328 said:


> But I would use head unit's volume, and set Bit One's volume fixed to almost full, so those will change anyway.


I would not recommend doing that. The Bit One will not be seeing a voltage signal consistent with the voltage level at which it was set up, thus you will not be optimizing the signal to noise ratio, and you risk clipping its inputs. In addition, by turning the Bit One outputs up to max you risk clipping the signal you send to your amps. Why would you not use the DRC controller? It comes with the Bit One for a reason. It's easy to use, takes up little space, allows you all the control you need, and assures signal integrity. As I stated in an earlier post, the best thing to do is set your head unit to the volume level it attains prior to clipping, use that output voltage to set up the Bit One, note the volume setting on the head unit in case someone ever changes it, don't touch the head unit volume knob again, and use the DRC controller to control volume, sub levels, select settings, etc. In my humble opinion, it makes no sense to invest in the Bit One only to do what you are contemplating. But, you can choose to do whatever you wish.


----------



## coolhund

Concerning the floor noise on digital in:
I have tried many, many things with my car stereo specialist and we are not able to find a solution to the noise. The BitOne.1 does have this noise still, BUT some people simply dont hear it because they dont have as loud systems or simply dont hear music with the engine off and in quiet surroundings.

What we found was that it depends on how high the amps output is set and how your HU handles volume. If the amp output is at 50% or even higher, it would be extremely loud and below like 40% it would be inaudible or only hearable when the engine is off and there is no music running or only at very low volume.

We tried calibrating the B1 with lower volume, with higher and everything in between. Nothing helped. In the end we managed to get it to a low level while also maintaining good (but not best) maximum volume output. Now its only audible when the engine is off and everything around the car is silent. If music is running at at least 2% of maximum volume, its not noticeable anymore.

Before, when I used the PXA-H701 I had no audible noise whatsoever, but now I have a much more powerful system. So we tried the H701 and it also made noise, about as loud as the BitOne. BUT it shut off the input when there was no music running so you could not hear the noise when there was nothing coming out of the speakers.
I talked to other professional people who also noticed this noise and they all said every similar unit has this noise with powerful systems. Its probably the DAC. It needs a better quality, but proper DACs can be quite expensive.

So I hope for the next version Audison adds a proper DAC or at the very least shuts down the input/output when there is nothing playing.

Oh and the remote control unit also causes a funny noise (in my case in my subwoofer). It sounds like a very erratic heartbeat. Its not as annoying as the floor noise, but its still horrible, especially when you run with a high subwoofer level.

BTW, what helped me with hissing sounds was setting the source to 24 bit output (carpc in my case).


----------



## ET328

Buzzman said:


> I would not recommend doing that. The Bit One will not be seeing a voltage signal consistent with the voltage level at which it was set up, thus you will not be optimizing the signal to noise ratio, and you risk clipping its inputs. In addition, by turning the Bit One outputs up to max you risk clipping the signal you send to your amps. Why would you not use the DRC controller? It comes with the Bit One for a reason. It's easy to use, takes up little space, allows you all the control you need, and assures signal integrity. As I stated in an earlier post, the best thing to do is set your head unit to the volume level it attains prior to clipping, use that output voltage to set up the Bit One, note the volume setting on the head unit in case someone ever changes it, don't touch the head unit volume knob again, and use the DRC controller to control volume, sub levels, select settings, etc. In my humble opinion, it makes no sense to invest in the Bit One only to do what you are contemplating. But, you can choose to do whatever you wish.


If I used the DRC, I'd loose steering wheel controls and OEM head unit's volume knob. No way I'm downgrading to that. I'm now using Alpine H701 with good enough results, surely Bit One is able to do the same with better results? I just need better (via PC) adjustments than what the Alpine offers.


----------



## manifest

I'm gonna go ahead and disagree with Buzzman on this and say that you'll be fine using your head unit controls to adjust volume. Technically he's correct because it's better to adjust gain at the DSP then you'll silence any noise the DSP has - but the bit1 is pretty damned quiet anyway. It's got 24 bit AD converters which can handle low signal inputs just fine. You won't clip your amps with the bit1 at 100% volume if your system is set up right. Just don't raise the volume of your head unit past the point you set up the bit1 at.

Maybe there's something I'm missing, maybe I lost a bit of dynamic range somehow, but I can't tell any difference between using the DRC and my head unit's volume controls.

If you're happy using head units volume controls through the 701 you'll be fine doing the same through the bit1.


----------



## St. Dark

ET328 said:


> Subwoofer volume from the headunit works even if Bit One just sums all the inputs. In that case sub volume just raises bass content in the summed signal but it does not directly go to the sub output.
> 
> The thing I'm after: can I map my deck's rear channels to Bit One's subwoofer output so that I could control sub level with deck's fader. So far it looks like Bit One is just two channel device so that's impossible to do.


Okay, it works like this- you can designate what each input channel is (R Fr mid, etc) and you can also designate what each output channel is (L Re woof, for instance) but you cannot DIRECTLY tell it "run the signal from this input channel to that output channel." Or can you? *G*
The unit "logically" maps the inputs to the outputs. That is, whatever you tell it is Right channel, stays on the right side. Whatever you tell it is Front, stays in the front, etc....unless a given input section isn't full range and then it will copy those frequencies from a corresponding side (or the sub) to fill it out when using the high level inputs. 
Also note that you can only use each choice on the drop-down menu ONCE (one of the things I've asked them to fix...who knows...:shrug so you only have ONE "subwoofer" input.
Now, knowing somewhat how it routes signals...you could probably take the rear channels through a good LOC or summing device (PAC SOEM, JL SSI, etc) that can still have a high powered ouput (although even that might not matter so much) and run both outputs from that device into the one channel on the B1 that you designate as sub in <<<do NOT run both of the rear channel inputs DIRECTLY into the Bit One, your stock head or amp will probably NOT like that much! >>>.
Make sure your fader is centered, then run your input level adjust through the config wizard. On the output side, set the B1 outputs and/or sub amp gains such that with the fader centered, you have as much or more bass than you would ever use with songs of average bass content...and then as you fade away from the rear this should decrease to the level you want on a given song. For bass-shy tracks, windows down, wild hairs...bring your fader back towards centered to get more low end. Haven't specifically tried this, but I truly suspect you can "trick" it this way (and I do have a significant amount of experience with Bit Ones so this is actually a fairly educated guess, not just an "off the top of the head" one! *L*)


And yes, it IS better to leave your radio volume maxed (below clipping) and use the DRC; but many a Bit One has been run the way you want (including at least one car that won it's class at SBN) and not been jailed by the Mattress Police. But yes, you may get some background noise. There, you can try setting the B1's master volume at -3 or 4dB and that can help. Car audio (like most things) is an exercise in juggling, and you can only keep so many balls in the air. Ya picks the ones you wants, and accept the ones as falls.


----------



## matthewo

i have been using my headunits volume for years now with the bitone, works just fine. like you said as long as you dont go above what you "set" as max. if you ever wonder, you can use the drc, to test what is clipping while listening to music. the 3rd option lets you adjust the source volume, do that and you audio will turn off and you can adjust the source units volume until the drc says clip. then you know where your max is.


----------



## ET328

St. Dark said:


> Now, knowing somewhat how it routes signals...you could probably take the rear channels through a good LOC or summing device (PAC SOEM, JL SSI, etc) that can still have a high powered ouput (although even that might not matter so much) and run both outputs from that device into the one channel on the B1 that you designate as sub in <<<do NOT run both of the rear channel inputs DIRECTLY into the Bit One, your stock head or amp will probably NOT like that much! >>>.


Thanks for the info, it's all clear now! I already have a LOC Xetec USC-EVO that I'm now using only to convert front channel signals, but looks like it allows me to do the rear ch -> mono sub output conversion that is needed for Bit One's bass control via fader. Xetec doesn't have speaker level outputs but it may still be enough to drive Bit One's speaker inputs, max output is 7 volts (unbalanced). 

Now the only "problem" is, should I wait until 3sixty.3 is released and see how it performs vs. Bit One...


----------



## efun

less said:


> The only hiss issue I know of with bit ones only happens when you connect a digital device that doesn't supply a constant carrier frequency - according the the tech folks, there is only one car head unit with a digital output that doesn't have this while every other test model did have a carrier... so people like me who have media players or odd devices had a small amount of hiss when the unit was set in the mute mode only. One click over, and the hiss stopped.
> 
> The SFC seems to have stopped this.


How to explain the hiss when no digital connecton? the hiss is more bigger than digital device mute.


----------



## vuongkong

bbfoto said:


> diegoejea,
> I'd like a show of hands if you have kept your Original Bit One (have not had to return or exchange your unit at all) and also have not had ANY issues with it whatsoever (other than installation-related problems or user error.)


hey guys, i've been reading through this massive thread and noticed that a few a few original bit ones have had problems. 

i got my hands on a bit one-S a long while ago and now am thinking to install it. 

What are your opinions? should i install it? or save myself the trouble? 

Are the bitOne-s any better then the BitOne originals?


----------



## michaelsil1

vuongkong said:


> hey guys, i've been reading through this massive thread and noticed that a few a few original bit ones have had problems.
> 
> i got my hands on a bit one-S a long while ago and now am thinking to install it.
> 
> What are your opinions? should i install it? or save myself the trouble?
> 
> Are the bitOne-s any better then the BitOne originals?


I had the original then the S and the Bit One.1 each generation gets better, hopefully the next one gets it all right.


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## vuongkong

apart from ground noise does anyone have any problems with the bitone.1? any been returned/replaced?


----------



## Tersi

Hi guys, and greetings from Finland.

I am putting my future project on paper and little by little purchasing my setup.
I am going to run a full 4-way active, two channels and it's going to be an SQ build.

I have already bought my speakers and amps and the wiring. So source and DAC/prosessor/EQ are left and I am now leaning towards the bit one to do the processing and converting with the EQ side offcourse..

My conserns are the issues with the models and the differences between the versions. I am going to buy the BitOne as a second hand so *I would like to know what are the differences between the models and possible issues with them?*
(Sorry that I didin't have the time to go trough this massive thread, for possible leads, I have now found a used bit one and would need the answer quickly as possible)

I would also appreciate help choosing the main source to feed the bit one. I am not looking forward to spending a lot of money on a HU with high end CD mechanics and DAC, due to the fact that I would like to have my music digitally played from flawless files such as FLACs and send the signal to bit one and let it do the rest.
In a nutshell what I need is a way to take my FLACs from my computer and play it somehow in my car with bit one doing the main work, is an iPad the solution here or is it even possible yet? Or are there HUs with optical outs and usb ins for a memory stick with reasonable price?


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## coolhund

efun said:


> How to explain the hiss when no digital connecton? the hiss is more bigger than digital device mute.


Prolly because when its disconnected, there is no constant feed either. It really is curious that only people with "special" digital devices like CarPCs or something have this issue.


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## Vitty

If my factory head unit outputs 5.1 surround sound should I go ahead and leave the surround sound processing on and hook up everything to high level inputs (front, rear, center, sub), or should I disable surround processing and only hook up front and sub to the Bitone.1 high level inputs?


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## Vitty

Not many people must have a BitOne or follow this thread too close. Ms-8 seemed to have much more active followers for help and guidance haha


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## Buzzman

Vitty said:


> If my factory head unit outputs 5.1 surround sound should I go ahead and leave the surround sound processing on and hook up everything to high level inputs (front, rear, center, sub), or should I disable surround processing and only hook up front and sub to the Bitone.1 high level inputs?


Page 8 of the manual: "Warning: the digital input accepts up to 48kHz / 24 bit stereo PCM signals. So it can't reproduce DOLBY DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/video sources. . . ." It does help to read these darn things.


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## michaelsil1

Buzzman said:


> Page 8 of the manual: "Warning: the digital input accepts up to 48kHz / 24 bit stereo PCM signals. So it can't reproduce DOLBY DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/video sources. . . ." It does help to read these darn things.


No habla ingles!


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## Vitty

Buzzman said:


> Page 8 of the manual: "Warning: the digital input accepts up to 48kHz / 24 bit stereo PCM signals. So it can't reproduce DOLBY DIGITAL multi-channel signals coming from audio/video sources. . . ." It does help to read these darn things.


That references the digital input only though. Are we to just assume it means for all inputs? (high level, low level, digital) ? I am specifically wondering high level. Why would they include a calibration disc for 5.1 surround systems if you couldn't hook a surround style setup to the high level inputs? (see page 27) Sheesh Buzzman don't you read the manual!? Just giving you crap man. It is rather confusing. Appreciate the help.

My interpretation is that only the digital input can't do dolby surround but high and low can. Can anyone else weigh in on this? 

Also, does anyone have both the install cd and calibration DVD available that I could download and burn to disc. I just got my BitOne but neither of the discs were in the box


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## t3sn4f2

Vitty said:


> That references the digital input only though. Are we to just assume it means for all inputs? (high level, low level, digital) ? I am specifically wondering high level. Why would they include a calibration disc for 5.1 surround systems if you couldn't hook a surround style setup to the high level inputs? (see page 27) Sheesh Buzzman don't you read the manual!? Just giving you crap man. It is rather confusing. Appreciate the help.
> 
> My interpretation is that only the digital input can't do dolby surround but high and low can. Can anyone else weigh in on this?


Haven't really looked into it and on about 5 buds at the moment D), but analog channel input summing should still be restricted to stereo one way or multi way input signals. Unless there is a specific designation on an input such as "Center from Volvo DPII version 1.384534.


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## Vitty

Apparently you tell the BitOne what channel is what as far as inputs go and the options are Front Full/mid/high, Rear full/mid/high, Center, and Subwoofer.


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## t3sn4f2

Vitty said:


> Apparently you tell the BitOne what channel is what as far as inputs go and the options are Front Full/mid/high, Rear full/mid/high, Center, and Subwoofer.


That's fine but it is not smart enough to rebuild a true original two channel stereo signal from a multichannel source output. There are too many types and each can derive a center channel from the CD stereo signal in a different way that another one would. It's a less then ideal way of doing it and a last resort for those with cars that don't have the option to turn multichannel processing off.


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## Vitty

t3sn4f2 said:


> That's fine but it is not smart enough to rebuild a true original two channel stereo signal from a multichannel source output. There are too many types and each can derive a center channel from the CD stereo signal in a different way that another one would. It's a less then ideal way of doing it and a last resort for those with cars that don't have the option to turn multichannel processing off.


Cool now thats what I was looking for. Sounds like I should just hook up my front right and left high level inputs. Should I hook up my factory subwoofer high level input as well?


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## t3sn4f2

Vitty said:


> Cool now thats what I was looking for. Sounds like I should just hook up my front right and left high level inputs. Should I hook up my factory subwoofer high level input as well?


I'll let someone with more experience on the bit one answer that part. But my guess is you should since the sub bandwidth is cross out of the front channel. If you don't then the bitone will have to boost it back into those channels to make a flat curve again.

You also might want to check that the center has not output when the multi channel processing is turned off in the oem head unit. If it still has sound then connect the center output to the bitone as well.


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## t3sn4f2

I just noticed you mention it include a cal disc for 5.1 systems. That is probably so that it can help the bit one see the type of multichannel processing that is coming into the 5.1 high level input, in order to help rebuild the stereo signal for the DSP. But again I would avoid that and turn processing off. That is for some cars that don't have the option to disable the processing.


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## VooDooZg

ok i connected my new Pioneer avh-4300dvd vith 3.5mm mono to chinch adapter and then with 75-ohm coax cable some cheap one ( my friend have aplina with toslink connectit to bitone and he hawe same problem )

http://www.jinco.com/shop/images/CB30A307200.jpg

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/htmlim...F_HQSS3471.jpg

it works BUT 

Every time I turn on the car ( SEAT Leon 2007 ) I hear a electrical poook from the speaker, and when turn off the car, and sometimes when I change folders on DVD - I assume that this happens every time Bitone loses the digital signal from Pioneer

I wonder whether the same thing happening to you

Is the output from the Pioneer for sure 3.5mm mono, and what would happen if I plug in the 3.5mm stereo jack and connect it to 75ohm coax and than to RCA and to bitone !??

thx 

I read that sfc solves these problems
I have a loud noise when connected via coax digital audio, 3 times louder noise than when it is connected to the RCA, and i have digital boom pooook noise when i turn on/turn off Pioneer 4300 !??
will sfc solve all of my problem !?? thx


----------



## JamesDee

I am new at this forum, and I have a question about the Bit One... I just recently bought one second hand, that was never used, but I never realized until after, that there are different versions of the Bit One..... The one I purchased is the Bit One - S.
Now I havent got it connected yet, as I am waiting on my amplifier, but I did do the firmware update to 1.5 for the Bit One, and firmware update to the DRC to version 2.0.
I will be running it only using the high level inputs, so can I expect any issues being that it is a -S version ?


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## JamesDee

Nobody ???


----------



## Buzzman

JamesDee said:


> I am new at this forum, and I have a question about the Bit One... I just recently bought one second hand, that was never used, but I never realized until after, that there are different versions of the Bit One..... The one I purchased is the Bit One - S.
> Now I havent got it connected yet, as I am waiting on my amplifier, but I did do the firmware update to 1.5 for the Bit One, and firmware update to the DRC to version 2.0.
> I will be running it only using the high level inputs, so can I expect any issues being that it is a -S version ?


The "S" version is not the current version. The current version is the ".1". Whether you have any issues with the S version won't be known till you try it because not everyone had issues, or the same issues, with either of the previous iterations. But, there were sufficient enough problems to be resolved that the BitOne.1 came into development.


----------



## mrmozz

Hi.

I'm thinking of getting this box. I have a couple of questions about the DRC unit.

When listening to various music styles the frequency cut-off for the subwoofer is often best adjusted on the fly when music is playing while driving.
Can the subwoofer cut-off frequency be adjusted with the DRC?
Can the high-pass filter be toggled on and of with the DRC?
Must it be programmed in one of the memories first using a computer?

Btw great forum!


----------



## JamesDee

The DRC can be programmed with 4 distinct EQ settings, and they can be recalled individually using the DRC. The low frequency curve however cannot be adjusted on the fly though as you were asking.
But there is an adjustment for the level of signal to the subwoofer, as you can adjust the output level to the subwoofer, using the menu from the DRC.

And as for the high pass filter, no, that cant be adjusted either using the DRC, but as I say , you can pre programme 4 individual settings into the DRC.
A laptop computer is the only way to programme it, as it is there the software is, which programmes the DRC as well as the Main Unit.
If you do purchase one, ensure you have the latest firmware version for both the DRC and the main unit, as that is available on the Audison home page, cant remember exactly where that is now, but if you need it, just let me know, and I can send you the link for it.

http://download.elettromedia.it/download.asp Login is bitone Pasword is bitone


----------



## mrmozz

JamesDee said:


> ..but as I say , you can pre programme 4 individual settings into the DRC.


So it's not only the eq settings that can be programmed into the individual settings? Does this mean I can program a cut-off for the sub at e.g 70Hz in one of the memories and 60Hz in another memory? And the hi-pass filter can be programmed to be on or off in separate settings?


----------



## JamesDee

There is no setting per say to turn off or on the low pass or high pass settings for the subwoofer, or any other speaker for that matter, but you can individually programme the cutoff and hi pass frequency by tailoring the curve for the subwoofer. And you can also set that as I said before, using 4 individual settings, as all settings can be put into memory for 4 different eq settings, speaker curves, time delays, and whatever else you want to programme into each individual setting to be recalled via the DRC.
For example, I will have the time delay set for my drivers position, when no one else is in the car, and when I have a passengar in the car, I can set it for the centre position which will be equal on both sides, as well of course all the settings for the EQ and anything else.


----------



## JamesDee

To get a better understanding of programming of the Bit One, go to that link that I provided, and download the software and install it on your computer, as you dont need the Bit One Connected to actually programme the software, as you can do that in offline mode, so you understand what all that is possible using the software.


----------



## adamka199

Buzzman said:


> The "S" version is not the current version. The current version is the ".1". Whether you have any issues with the S version won't be known till you try it because not everyone had issues, or the same issues, with either of the previous iterations. But, there were sufficient enough problems to be resolved that the BitOne.1 came into development.


*hy!
I read forums but I can not untangle: (
I bit.s version I use. sizzles and squeaks and (clicking the tweeter).
SFC will solve a problem? expected to update software?
I'm using 1.5.1.1 and 2.0 DRC. Elettromedia does not contact me
Thanks !*


----------



## adamka199

Not audison technology the bit. italian made feaff leaff.com


----------



## less

First of all, I don't own the .S version, and no one I know does, so I don't know if this will help or not. I thought they'd more or less recalled all of that version.

Does your issue happen all the time, or intermittently? Also, I'm assuming this is happening with a digital input. Are you using the optical or coax input? If you're using the coaxial input, try running the same device through the optical input instead - oddly, the optical input works well for me when the same devices coax out often cuts out and locks the unit up. I honestly don't know why, but I don't want to send it to Italy for a month to get it resolved, since the optical works fine. The SFC may help you too though.

As for them not getting back with you, that isn't terribly surprising. You really need to buy Audison products through a dealer and you should also be aware that if they break, you'll likely have to send it to Italy for repairs. I've been fortunate enough to deal with Larry Penn, who someone here referred me too - and if it weren't for him, I'd be a very unhappy Audison customer. Thankfully, he's been wonderful and if he's still with them, he may be able to give you a hand. I'll PM you his info - but go to the dealer first if you can. 

Good luck.


----------



## VooDooZg

adamka199 said:


> *hy!
> I read forums but I can not untangle: (
> I bit.s version I use. sizzles and squeaks and (clicking the tweeter).
> SFC will solve a problem? expected to update software?
> I'm using 1.5.1.1 and 2.0 DRC. Elettromedia does not contact me
> Thanks !*


*disconnect DRC from bitone and problem will stop *- if you dot use digital output for bitone you dont need drc - do your setting via laptop 

ther was by the version in this way BitOne, BitOne.sip, BitOne-S, BitOne-S.sip and the newest BitOne.1 -- BitOne.1 dont have any of previus problems like buzzing and clicking but stil has a problem whan connected via digital output whiz loud boom from speacker and digital noise, with SFC you will solve problem with boom but digital noise is still a problem

a have BitOne.1 ( 05.2012 newest with 1.5.1.1 and drc 2.0 from 
Iitaly) and SFC and is connectid with Pioneer AVH4300 via digital coaxial cable ( 75ohm )


----------



## val69

What are your crossover setting? I'm looking for starting points.


FRONT Hertz Mille 3 way active
REAR Hertz Mille 2 way passive
SUBS 2 JL W7 10"

2 Alpine PDX 4.150
1 Alpine PDX 1.1000


Thanks!


----------



## Jurpl

Question:

I picked up a Bit 1 and a Voce 5.1K with digital in module.

The head unit only has speaker outputs, so I connected the 4 speaker outputs from the head unit to hi level input 1-4 

Speaker out front left = hi-level input 1
Speaker out front right = hi-level input 2
Speaker out rear left = hi-level input 3
Speaker out rear right = hi-level input 4

I need the 4 speakers for the park distance control

I assigned the hi-level inputs:










Then I assigned the speakers:





































Result:










I connected the Voce 5.1K with the UTP cable and set the inputs to:

Channel A -> Stereo -> Input 1/2
Channel B -> Stereo -> Input 3/4
Channel C -> Mono -> Input 5

Now the strange thing is:

In the bit one software the rear channels are switched. (left is right and right is left)

But when I check it with the head unit with the balance and fader everything is ok, I also checked it with a test CD and when I play sound only on the left channel , It plays only on the left channel (front and right), the same for the right channel.

When I use the balance and fader on the DRC the rear channels are switched again.

What to do? I could have made a mistake with the connections.

It won't work to switch the output cables on the 5.1 amp then left and right will be wrong......
The input cables on the amp can't be changed (all digital via UTP)

*Update * Duh I had to switch the rears on the input side on the Bit 1 and on the output side of the amp.... Now everything is ok


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## EggyLoom

If anyone with silenced (no hiss) Bit one.1 would be willing to make me hi res decent pictures of the PCB that would be helpful. I am currently struggling with the hiss topic. Dealer sent me actually brand new Bit One.1 for testing and it is absolutely the same - still the hiss. I made some pics of the PCB, I would like to see is there any difference in layout, components etc...here is my pic (very hi res): http://www.egertifoto.com/galerii/galleries/Civic/Heli/BitOne.1/IMG_4925_pisi.jpg

I have worked with electronics about 15+ years, so maybe I can find out the real problem, if I could only see the difference in PCB.

PS! I measured the "hiss" using UMIK-1 mic, lower graph is noise from Hertz HE.4 amp and HCP2 on half gain (I have inputs loaded currently with 5k resistors) and if i connect it to bit one.1 then i get the upper graph (plus 10-15dB). Bit one outputs are -3dB and master input set to -10dB. From 0dB to -10dB it helps to reduce the hiss, but no effect after -10dB.


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## jb4674

Slightly off topic but, here goes....

If I have a Bit One connected to a factory head unit, do I need to use the DRC to control the volume of the overall system? Or can I use my factory head unit's volume knob to control the volume and not install the DRC at all? (I'm trying to avoid finding a place to install it in my car if I can)


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## EggyLoom

jb4674 said:


> Slightly off topic but, here goes....
> 
> If I have a Bit One connected to a factory head unit, do I need to use the DRC to control the volume of the overall system? Or can I use my factory head unit's volume knob to control the volume?


You can do both. I have the DRC installed, but I am using mainly HU volume control.


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## jb4674

EggyLoom said:


> You can do both. I have the DRC installed, but I am using mainly HU volume control.


Sweet, Thanks!


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