# Volvo S70 install



## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

So, I've been reading here for some time and decided to make a thread because I'm going to redo the audio in my car. The build is not going to be a fast build, I don't have all the parts yet, but I'll update when something new has been finished. I used to have a 850R which was wrecked in an accident about 6 weeks ago. Since that time I bought an S70 with only 90k miles, so practically new.

The stuff I'm going to use is as follows:

Factory HU-1205 navigation unit
iMiv iPod adapter
Rainbow SLC 265.25 NG compo set
Rainbow iPaul 4.300 White
Rainbow 10" Amboss
And some other misc stuff

I'm probably going to leave the stock 8" woofers that are in the rear connected to the HU. If I can integrate it soundwise to the rest of the system. If I can't, I'll remove them.

My 850R:










My S70:










So, the S70 has the factory HU-1205 with navi and still has the factory speakers. It just doesn't sound right, so there are some things that are going to have to change. In my previous car I had a Pioneer DoubleDin HU, but since it wasn't OEM it never really seemed in style with the rest of the dashboard. That's the main reason why I decided to sell the Pioneer and use the factory HU, probably sacrificing some SQ in doing so.
But the HU does have an amplifier connection to connect the factory amp, and that's what I'm going to use for my amp.

The factory amp connection is a 6 pin DIN connector. I ordered one at a local supplystore and started to make my own cable. I used shielded microphone cable, we had that lying around, and it will probably do the trick just fine.
Following images are the making of the cable. At least the end where the DIN connector is. The other end can be made when I know how long the cable has to be.









































































So this is as far as I got. I ordered the iMiv unit yesterday so probably will be able to install it this weekend.
This is the iMiv, I hope it works as advertised.

iMiv iPod / iPhone adapter

Update as soon as I have something new to update.

I can't use smilies as I can only attach 10 images. Bummer!! LoL


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## JVCS80T6 (Dec 23, 2009)

Guessing you did the Comets/R Bumper? Looks great! I've never seen a factory Headunit with Nav in an S70... must have been on a non-US Spec thing...

Gonna have to keep an eye over here to get some ideas of what to do with mine! I have an aftermarket headunit so the next logical steps for me are an amp to run the door speakers and then install some new speakers all around and maybe a better headunit.

Can't wait to see what you do with this! Good Luck!
-John


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## SSCustoms (Oct 16, 2008)

Coming from another Volvo enthusiast, it looks like you have a good start!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

The R-bumper and Comets, but also dual exhaust were already fitted when I bought the car. I did put on the spoiler, though it already came with the car. The previous owner was an enthousiast as well.

The HU-1205 was a Euro-spec only radio. Never came in the US. It is a nice radio. Clean and simple. Back then it was an option for the S/V40.










Can't wait to get started!


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## raresvintea (Sep 17, 2010)

I put first photo with volvo like a screenshot! 

OEM look is the best! Succes!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

a car i am very familar with, cant wait to see how you tackle the front stage


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

I'm planning on using the stock speaker locations, because I want it to look stock. But I'm aware of how it looks behind there. No room to vent into the doors, only between door and doorcard. Isn't that why you mounted the kicks in the footwells in you old 850?
I haven't really figured it out yet, but I know it's going to be a pain in the ass.
Kicks in the footwell isn't really an option for me as I have a clutch pedal and pretty big feet! 

You have any pointers or thoughts about it?

BTW your installs are always very inspirational. Thank you!


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## nautic70 (Oct 20, 2010)

Have you double checked the mounting depth of the Rainbow SLC 265.25 NG compo set 
I put a set of Focal Polyglass 165v shallow mounts and after 1 layer of SS I didn't have any extra space. You only have about 2.3-2.5 mounting depth. Good luck in your install and take lots o pics.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

I am going to make a lot of Pictures, don't you worry about that.
And concerning the mountingdepth, yes I did check it. But today I made a last minute change and went with the Profi line CMX 265. But I'm probably going to cut the doors open anyway. If that's possible. I'll just have to make it work I guess. 
Not really made my mind up yet!


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## nautic70 (Oct 20, 2010)

Teddy81 said:


> I am going to make a lot of Pictures, don't you worry about that.
> And concerning the mountingdepth, yes I did check it. But today I made a last minute change and went with the Profi line CMX 265. But I'm probably going to cut the doors open anyway. If that's possible. I'll just have to make it work I guess.
> Not really made my mind up yet!


Double check it cuz cutting the doors wont gain you much room. We were gonna do it mine but I would just not gain enough to make it worth it.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Teddy81 said:


> I'm planning on using the stock speaker locations, because I want it to look stock. But I'm aware of how it looks behind there. No room to vent into the doors, only between door and doorcard. Isn't that why you mounted the kicks in the footwells in you old 850?
> I haven't really figured it out yet, but I know it's going to be a pain in the ass.
> Kicks in the footwell isn't really an option for me as I have a clutch pedal and pretty big feet!
> 
> ...



i would avoid the stock location, it basically is like a speaker mounted out in the open. very little midbass response.

as far as kick panels go. if you choose the right speaker and don mind cutting up your metal a lil, you can recess it in far enough that you wont have to worry about the clutch pedal. 

or, you can make a door pod out of the pocket area at the lower door, but as you can imagine, it isnt the easiest mold job...but that may be your best bet if kicks are totally out of the question 

b


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## JVCS80T6 (Dec 23, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> i would avoid the stock location, it basically is like a speaker mounted out in the open. very little midbass response.
> 
> as far as kick panels go. if you choose the right speaker and don mind cutting up your metal a lil, you can recess it in far enough that you wont have to worry about the clutch pedal.
> 
> ...


I thought about making low kicks since I have an extra set of door panels... might have to make that my next project!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Ok, so I'll have to think really well over what to do. Hmmmm

Meanwhile I got me some stuff yesterday.










Volvo iPod adapter to play iPod/iPhone on the HU-1205.










Speakers, Rainbow CMX 265










Woofer, Rainbow 10" Amboss










And best of all, amp Rainbow iPaul 4.300




























So, that is going in my car. Also got some power cable to power the amp and some deadening material. Still have wire to wire speakers and woofer so I didn't need that.

To be continued.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

So, today in the cold weather I installed the iMiv iPod adapter to attach iPod/iPhone to my factory HU. It works fantastic. Hard to describe.

First I installed the control unit. Because the cable plug had a nasty 90 degree bend in it (Why????) I had to install it against the Parrot module so the connector could be connected. There was no decent other way.










I fabricated a bracket to mount my iPhone. This is attached inside the dash. I have to remove the topplate of the dash, but if I ever remove it, I will not be stuck with nasty holes in the dash.










So, how does it work? Well it is connected to the cd changer connector on the radio and supports all functions that are supported for the cd changers. So I can change playlists and songs all with the buttons on the HU.
It even has songtext so I can see which song is playing. Overall a very good addon to the radio and I'm very pleased with it.



















As an added bonus, I can even play internet radio through my phone. I can zap between my favorite stations by pressing the prev/next buttons, and... it givens me songtext in the display as well.
So, very good device, and I'm very very satified with it.


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## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

Teddy81 said:


> So, today in the cold weather I installed the iMiv iPod adapter to attach iPod/iPhone to my factory HU. It works fantastic. Hard to describe.
> 
> First I installed the control unit. Because the cable plug had a nasty 90 degree bend in it (Why????) I had to install it against the Parrot module so the connector could be connected. There was no decent other way.
> 
> ...


I like your taste in music my friend, I actually saw Joris Voorn play on a boat cruise here about 1 year ago, fantastic artist/dj!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Yep, Joris Voorn is great! ;D


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

I cant tell from the photo's but what year is your 70? I have an 01 C70 and used factory locations with GREAT sucess.
Great job so far, keep it up


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Cool thnx.

Mine is an 1998 model. Haven't had time to open up the doors yet to see what I'm working with. I know the Premium sound system with Dynaudio sounds awesome. So there must be a way to make it work with stock locations... one would think!


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

If it has the same as what mine came with yours can fit an 8" woofer that is EXACTLY 3" deep. The dash locations can fit up to a 4" midrange if you want to do that instead of the upper door locations which are only 2" deep.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thank you, that is some very useful information!
The factory woofer location in the doors is still my most favorite option, so that is probably what I'm going to make work. But it will involve some cutting in the doorpanels.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Today I took a look at the inside of my doors to see what I'm working with. I knew it was going to be tight, but now I know it's going to be tight.

So, doorpanel comes off










And there we have the OEM speaker










There is not a lot of room behind it










There is a steel plate behind the speaker. It looks like it's closed off completely, but it's not. It ventilates to the inside of the door so I'm probably won't have to open up the door. So in theory there should be enough room for the speakers to breathe. It begins to look like I'm going with the stock locations first. If it doesn't work, I can always cut the doorpanels up or create kick's.










I have 60mm which I could stretch to 70mm. I need 65mm for the speakers to fit. So it seems as though it will fit, though I will only know that for sure when I've got the speakers to play with. Don't have them with me as I'm at work.










If it won't fit I can always cut some material out of the doorcards to make some more room. It will gain me a couple of mm's.










So, I learned some stuff again today.


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## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

I love how Volvo mounts the mids way up at the top of the door, thats awesome!


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## nautic70 (Oct 20, 2010)

chefhow said:


> If it has the same as what mine came with yours can fit an 8" woofer that is EXACTLY 3" deep. The dash locations can fit up to a 4" midrange if you want to do that instead of the upper door locations which are only 2" deep.


Thorough almost completely alike in every way one of the only differences a C70 and the rest of the X70's is the door panel. And 4's would be a tight fit I barely got my l3's in there wth minor surgery.


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

omg that 850 is gorgeous, any more pics?

subscribed..


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thnx, sure I have some more pics! 














































And an interior shot


Volvo 850 interior by ted.sertons, on Flickr


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

So I had some time to do some more work today.

The amp comes with a remote control for the gain and phase. So I had to place that somewhere. Inside the armrest was a good place. So there it goes.
I still have to put the wire in.










The remote









Secured to the thing inside the armrest









And back in the car


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And I also did some work in the luggagecompartment. So this is what it looks like standard. Notice the raised floor because of the Liquid Petrolium Gas tank that is located there.

Left side, where the amp is coming









Right side, where the sub is going









So after thinking for a long time I decided to redo the entire compartment. It's going to be upholstered in black alcantara. I already ordered it yesterday, so that's on it's way.

First, remove everyting


















So I made a timber frame for the floor and to secure some things like the amp rack and stuff.





































That's as far as I got with the floor today, had some other things coming in between.

It's coming back out to be covered in fabric, I'm not leaving it like this.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And I put some snakeskin over my fabricated amp-cable. So that's looking nice and all bundled together. They only had red shrink wrap stuff in the right size, I went to about five shops to look for it and only one sold the stuff. So this will have to do! 



















That's all I did today!


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## raresvintea (Sep 17, 2010)

Very nice work man! What attenion to details!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

I did some more work on the audio today. At first I wanted to put the cable under the car and enter the car in the trunk through a grommet, but there was no way I could put the cable there without it being the lowest point of the car at one or two spots. So I decided against it and put it through the car instead.
The cable is secured to the original loom at least every 30 cm's with ty-wraps, so it's going nowhere.

I entered the interior through the fuseholder that's in the enginebay. That's the quickest and nicest way. Didn't want to drill through the firewall and put a grommet in there.

So, I first drilled a hole in the fuseholder into the interior.










Made some holes in the rubber that closes of the fuseholder and the firewall. Had to put the cable through with soap so there is no moisture going through there. Very tight fit.










Secured with a ty-wrap, ready to close it up again










Secured the fuseholder to the airfilter box with some stainless screws. This is the only place to attach it to while staying within 30 cm's from the battery










Put some black protective sleave around the cable so it can't get damaged and for the oem look. Ready to close it up. Don't have pictures yet from the cable from the battery to the fuseholder.










It's hard to see, but the cable is from front to back secured to the original wiringloom of the car. It wanted to put it inside the thing, but it would fit. So secured it with ty-wraps at least every 30 cm's. It's not going anywhere



















Everywhere the cable has to pass through potentially damaging things-stuff-whatever (don't know the word) I put some protective sleave over it.



















And the cable ends in the trunk where it will give the amp the much needed power


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And everything closed up again. Nothing in the interior let's you see there is a powercable for the amp. Nice


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Nice!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And here are the rest of the photo's of the power cable. Sorry for the quality, the photo's suck.




























And the frame in the trunk has been covered in some fabric. Looks a lot better than the bare wood. Though nobody is ever going to see it after I'm done with the install.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Today I built something to attach the amplifier to. It's going to be mounted in the left side of the trunk. Something is going to cover it in the end.

So this is the result. The big holes in the baseplate are foor cooling of the amp. On the amp there are cooling holes at those locations.










Holes for the Input and output signal cables:



















Hole for the power and ground cables



















And this is what it's going to look like


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## derekgates (Jan 3, 2012)

Teddy81 said:


> And this is what it's going to look like


Super nice amp rack! I love the cooling and the wiring loom. Lots of attention to detail which shows! 

Woah; we are installing the same component set and amps. Incredible! I rarely see these online!


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## derekgates (Jan 3, 2012)

Double post, sorry...


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## bicycle_wreck (Sep 1, 2011)

Gorgeous work, subbed.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thnx Guys!

Hopefully I have time today to do some more work on the install.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Yesterday I put the amp-cable in the car. Got some stuff out of the car first for easy access.



















Also put the cable for the remote of the amp in de snakeskin and let it come out halfway. Afterwards cleaned it up with some schrinkwrap and it looks nive and tidy again.










Carpet back in place, nothing to be seen.










This is where the cable submerges from the backseat










And attached the cable to the frame. I used some clamps that are used to secure powerlines in houses. Very handy and why not use stuff that is readily available. Only minor is that they are grey in stead of black. Ah well...



















Today I'm going to see if I can mount the amprack. It doesn't fit because I'm an idiot. Didn't measure and just made it, thinking it would fit. The space is too tight so it won't. Lesson learned.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

cool cable clamps there! 

i like where this is headed!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thnx!! 

The amprack I made is being scrapped. It doesn't fit and I was an idiot for not measuring things and just assuming it would go in.
Soooo, for the second attempt.

Made a template and cut the MDF










It fits!!










Holes for the cooling of the amp cut










And now I've got a good base of which to work from. Cool


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Already got some things done this morning. Put the amp in it's place.










Bolted to the car left and right



















Made the connectors on the wires. Everything done with shrinkwrap.




























Bundeled the wire for the amp remote. It's too long and there's no way of shortening is as it had 6 wires. I have 8 and 4 wire connectors, not 6.










Attached to the car










Connected all the connectors made










And this is where I'm at now!










Looking promising!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And I also did some work on the woofers in the doors

Doorpanel, hole is too small










Hole is bigger










This is how it's going to sit










Made some MDF rings to mount the speakers










With ring placed in door










Closed up with deadner



















And deadnend (??) the door with the mats.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

I wanted the cables through the original grommet. Also I wanted to be able to disconnect like standard so I wanted to add the new wires to the existing plug. There were no extra holes, so I used the existing connections for the speaker.

This is where I want to add the cables










Found the speakerwires










Soldered new wires to existing connectors










And back in the plug










This was simple, the male side of the plug was under the dashboard. 










Gotcha










Again, founf the right connectors










New wires attached










And back together










Hopefully the passenger side will be easier to reach


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Holy mid-bass in your face,gotta hear your thoughts on the M/B drivers mounted so high up


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

It's the standard mounting location. I want to keep a stock look with no speaker in sigt, so that's what I'm going with at first. Unless the sound is awfull.

I put some sound deadning on the door cards

Without










With










Opened up the hole in the right doorcard to make room for woofer










Made the speaker thing for the right door.










And put some deadning on the right doorcard.










That's it for today. Hopefully more tomorrow!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Yesterday I made the loom for the speakers

First fixed the wires to the door through the thing










Luckily some more space here to get the connector out










Connectors out










Back together










Wires added










Deadned passenger door










Connectors to the wire for connecting the speaker










Speaker in the door










And same thing for the other side


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And I made the wiring loom for the front speakers










All bundled up










Left and right combined










Right side secured










secured to car



















Offcourse some protection through sharp edges










And the wires end at the cross-overs










All connected



















Hopefully I'll have it connected today so I can play some music!! That would be nice!


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## mkb (Feb 27, 2007)

Nice job on the install, i like the looms you made... very clean. Gotta give some love for a fellow Volvo owner!


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Thnx.

So where was I? Here...

The cable from the amp to the speakers


















































































Attached the power cable


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

Made a ground




























Than I had to place the tweaters. First I wanted to put them in the A-pillars, but eventually I decided against it. If I want to go stealth, I should really go stealth, so no tweaters in the A-pillars but only stock locations.
So, I kannibalised the original tweaters and made my own brackets for mounting them.


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## Teddy81 (Aug 3, 2010)

And than it was time to power everything up and see how it would play. I was not expecting this moment of joy to turn into a moment of frustration soo fast.
Powered it up and immediatly noticed that the left speaker was not playing as loud as it should. After searching and checking everything I located the problem to be in my new amp. Both left signals (front and rear) were faulty. Front only played very soft and rear didn't work at all.
After a call with the shop where I bought the amp they told me to bring it back in and they would send it to Rainbow so they could check what the problem was and either fix it or give me a new one.
Soooo, I'm without amp for about 3 weeks.
That left me with only one option. Alter all the cables I made precisely at the right length for this specific amp and make them all longer so I could temporarily throw my old amp in.
So that's what I did.










I really mean, thrown it in! 










And my old sub until I have a box made for the new one and have it all running.










So, it sounds fairly good, but it will get better with the new amp and everything set up correctly.
I'm really thinking about getting an MS-8 processor. Is it really as good as everyone says it is? Feedback is muck appreciated.


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

SUBSCRIBED!

all of a sudden i want to be a Volvo owner.... i still love my VW but a Volvo would be nice too..... wishlist now = Audi and now VOLVO

CC


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## Johnny Caspar (Apr 15, 2010)

Love to see some more updates or hear this in person.


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