# 2002 Acura CL-S Build



## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Well I'm finally coming around to my new system. This is what the System will consist of:

Headunit - Kenwood DNX-8120
Fronts - Dynaudio 342
Rears - Dynaudio 242
4/Channel - Sundown Audio 100.4D
Subs - 1 AudioQue HDC312
Sub Amp - AudioQue 2200d
Power - Yellow Top/Kinetic600/180amp ALT

I am trying to accomplish SQ with the needed THUMP.

I had a question on how to setup the 3 way system though...As of right now this is what I was thinking...Do you think this would be ok imaging wise? I know I have a few features on the new Kenwood that will help w/ the imaging, etc.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

The Dyn sets:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

The Audioque and the tunes:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

The Sundown:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

The AQ:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

The Lanzar that smoked once and now I can't figure out whats wrong w/ it  Such a great amp too!!!


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

I'd seriously reconsider driver location. Can you move your tweeter to A pillar area? What's in the kick panels as far as usable space goes?


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Nice start w/ the sweet gear.

The plan for mid (and tweet) placement looks weak though. The mids should be the furthest away speaker, in the kicks or in the A-pillars.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

I can't do anything in the kicks because of my huge feet and the car being to small. I wouldn't have enough room 

And whats the A pillar? I can't fiberglass so if thats needed I wouldn't be able to do that


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> Nice start w/ the sweet gear.
> 
> The plan for mid (and tweet) placement looks weak though. The mids should be the furthest away speaker, in the kicks or in the A-pillars.


LoL thanks. :fyi: this is like 7th system. I'm not a noob just never done a 3-way set


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hehe, looks like we are simultaenously embarking on a CL-S build, i am starting this one tommorow, an 01 

i agree wtih the previous statements though, not suggesting you ar a noob at all when it comes to car audio, but this could be one of your first crack at a true SQ install?

if so, and if you want to get into the whole ream dealing wtih imagine, staging, as well as good tonality, i also suggest a modification of your design.

if i had your gear, i would prolly do:

midbass in stock location
midrange in kicks, the dome dyn tweets work well and take up very little room 
tweets in A pillras

well the two way set you have slated for the rear, and instead spend it on a decent DSP.

then you can go fully active on the 3 way set upfront and the sub. 

IMO that would give you the best results in terms of achieving overall SQ versus your current design.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

I guess I'm not trying to go for an all out SQ system here.

But the tweeter in the A-Pillar and the Midrange in the Kick, but I don't have any fiberglassing skills  So I really don't see that as being an option, cause trust me I want to do it!

So w/o putting the tweeter in the A-pillar and the kick do you think it will throw everything off? Or will it still sound pretty good?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Does anyone have some non-fiberglass ways to do the Midrange in the kick and or know anyone who can fiberglass in the Northern, IL area?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> hehe, looks like we are simultaenously embarking on a CL-S build, i am starting this one tommorow, an 01
> 
> i agree wtih the previous statements though, not suggesting you ar a noob at all when it comes to car audio, but this could be one of your first crack at a true SQ install?
> 
> ...


The only reason I didn't go active was because I had already purchased the 4 channel amp and would've bought the DLS 6 channel if I choice to go active...I also wasn't planning on buying a three way set this time around either lol.


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## 05_sprcrw (Dec 29, 2008)

I am fairly new here so if its frowned upon to pass on another good forum for fiberglassing here just let me know and I will remove this. But if you go to fiberglassforums they have tons and tons of very helpful info to get you started in fiberglass work. The only thing is you will have to register if you want to actually see the forums, but it is free so its all good. It really is very simple if you want to learn it is easy to pick up and almost impossible to screw up. Just a thought but you really would be surprised how easy it is. Heck if I can do it pretty much anyone can :laugh:


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Is the AQ considered a SQ sub?....anyhow nice equipment .


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, i think if you pick up another sundown 50.4 or 125.2, you can use that to poewr hte midbass, and the 100.4 on the mid and tweet.

as for glassing, umm...which antioch are you? you may be able to fit the midrange in the kicks without classing, and the pillars, depending on where you are, i can may be lend you a hand


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Is the AQ considered a SQ sub?....anyhow nice equipment .


Haha no not at all


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> well, i think if you pick up another sundown 50.4 or 125.2, you can use that to poewr hte midbass, and the 100.4 on the mid and tweet.
> 
> as for glassing, umm...which antioch are you? you may be able to fit the midrange in the kicks without classing, and the pillars, depending on where you are, i can may be lend you a hand


 I'm in Antioch, il thank u anyways as I see ur in Cali


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/47755-noob-install-why-not.html#post695691

hope that helps you out at least a little. The stock tweets are in the sail panels. That pops off easily and you can dremel out the housing to fit larger tweets in there.

I know what you mean about the kicks, but right where the parking brake it, I think that's seriously your best shot at fitting the midrange 

Good luck


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

douggiestyle said:


> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/47755-noob-install-why-not.html#post695691
> 
> hope that helps you out at least a little. The stock tweets are in the sail panels. That pops off easily and you can dremel out the housing to fit larger tweets in there.
> 
> ...


No yeah thats where the tweeters are going. And thats what I'm doing for that. But I can't figure out how to do the midrange...


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, there is an antioch within an hour from me which is why i asked lol

well, if you areally want pillars for tweets, and can overnight me your stock pillars and tweets, since i have this CL-S here now, i can mold a set for ya 

b


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

simplicityinsound said:


> well, there is an antioch within an hour from me which is why i asked lol
> 
> well, if you areally want pillars for tweets, and can overnight me your stock pillars and tweets, since i have this CL-S here now, i can mold a set for ya
> 
> b


Take that offer! the man does nice work. that's an understatement, great work. 

Bing, don't you think the stock location is pretty good as far as tweeter placement, though?

Looking forward to both builds for inspiration, my install's been stuck on "I got it working"


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

By the way, this is where I went for my dash kit. Double or single din, the texture match is top notch. I believe my single din was simply a painted metra kit, so it only set me back ~$50. Had him put together a Bose to Alpine harness for a little bit more just to make life easier.

Double Din dash kits for TL/CL - AcuraZine Community


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## prophet_ca (Feb 29, 2008)

Yeah i would so take that offer....


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, for me, i really hate top of door and sail panel location for tweets.

even though you look at it, and its usually only 3-6 inches from the pillras, depending on the car, but honetsly,i have never done an install wtih that locaiton tweets that i liked. always get too much highs, tend to make even smooth tweets sound harsh, when i try to eq it out, it just bcomes too dull, cannot find a good meium.

also, you gotta put so much time alignment on it due to its location.

even though 3-6 inches seems like such a small difference, but if you think about it, if you are talking about a tweet thats say...only a foot and a half from your ear, its essentially a 25-40 percent difference...no? hehe

b


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

that is a great point, and it may be the reason I dislike my current tweets that everyone raved over. I suppose I'll have to velcro them to the pillars and see if it makes a difference.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Here some older pictures of the box build for the AQ:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Now for the Wall w/ my dads best friend who helped me:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Test fitting:




























Now to the wall, w/ my dads best friend who helped me:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)




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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

EdiT

It double posted sorry


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Echo42987 said:


> Does anyone have some non-fiberglass ways to do the Midrange in the kick and or know anyone who can fiberglass in the Northern, IL area?


Talk to 12velectronics on here, He does awesome work (from what i've seen) and I believe he is in gurnee.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Tonyguy said:


> Talk to 12velectronics on here, He does awesome work (from what i've seen) and I believe he is in gurnee.


I'll send him an e-mail but I doubt he'll be available in the time I need to get this done 

Simplicity already offered a problem to my solution but I'm going out of town next week and am going to be driving my car long distance and I know I wouldn't make it without my tunes lol. So I need to finish this over the weekend.

Thank you so much for the people who have offered so far! I use to be on ca.com and you guys actually lend helpful advice unlike everyone else on that website, it's ridiculous.

-Nick-


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

Echo42987 said:


> I'll send him an e-mail but I doubt he'll be available in the time I need to get this done
> 
> Simplicity already offered a problem to my solution but I'm going out of town next week and am going to be driving my car long distance and I know I wouldn't make it without my tunes lol. So I need to finish this over the weekend.
> 
> ...


Nick, We are in Lake in the Hills, IL. (about 25 minutes from Antioch). I would be glad to help, but I am buried for at least the next 2 weeks. 

I would take Bing up on the offer. He does great work. Getting it done by the weekend will be your next problem.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Echo42987 said:


> I'll send him an e-mail but I doubt he'll be available in the time I need to get this done
> 
> Simplicity already offered a problem to my solution but I'm going out of town next week and am going to be driving my car long distance and I know I wouldn't make it without my tunes lol. So I need to finish this over the weekend.
> 
> ...


I know another guy that stays down here in lockport, il. He actually works out of his house. He does great work and can do most anything you want to get done. PM me for more info on him. And he is not busy as me and him both got laid off from a shop recently.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

12v Electronics said:


> Nick, We are in Lake in the Hills, IL. (about 25 minutes from Antioch). I would be glad to help, but I am buried for at least the next 2 weeks.
> 
> I would take Bing up on the offer. He does great work. Getting it done by the weekend will be your next problem.


Wow I wish I knew this 

I wish I could take him up on his offer....but it seems like my install might turn out ghetto for the ride down there and when I get back I could possibly turn it into something else  lol

Yeah your not far from me at all. I almost ALMOST bought the legatias off of your website a couple weeks back but didn't want to tackle the whole active and buying another amp process. Then I got a good deal on the Dyn's that I couldn't pass up  

I'm assuming you just got my e-mail then?


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

Echo42987 said:


> Wow I wish I knew this
> 
> I wish I could take him up on his offer....but it seems like my install might turn out ghetto for the ride down there and when I get back I could possibly turn it into something else  lol
> 
> ...


Looks like you have a great system. I did get your email. If there is anything i can help with in the future please let me know. 

Tom


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

12v Electronics said:


> Looks like you have a great system. I did get your email. If there is anything i can help with in the future please let me know.
> 
> Tom


Cool thanks. 

I might have to stop by your shop sometime and see what else you'll be able to do for me since I might just keep this simple then bring it to you for the cool stuff


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

why not throw in a pair of coax for your road trip?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

douggiestyle said:


> why not throw in a pair of coax for your road trip?


I was thinking that but I forgot I sold them  I had a pair of the old CDT's I could've thrown in but got rid of them.

I am fine with throwing the dyn's in and not making it anything special until I go visit someone.

-Nick-


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Yay the new DNX8120 just got here w/ the free back up camera 

Something I know how to install 

I'll get pics up later tonight when I start working on everything I'll bring the laptop out w/ me.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

For the DNX8120 does anyone have info on how to make it so I can watch movies while driving? Do I just ground the parking brake one or do I need to change a few things like on the AVICN4?

Also it came with a free rear view camera, do I need to wire it into the vehicle somehow so when I go in reverse it turns on w/ the HU or can I just hook it up and turn it on when I want?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Alright I'm in the garage will get pictures up soon.


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## monkeybutt (Oct 1, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> hehe, looks like we are simultaenously embarking on a CL-S build, i am starting this one tommorow, an 01
> 
> i agree wtih the previous statements though, not suggesting you ar a noob at all when it comes to car audio, but this could be one of your first crack at a true SQ install?
> 
> ...


Very interested to see the results of your CL-S build and your impressions of the sound. I have a stick version of this car w/ console parking brake and so more room than the automatic, but even so not much apparent space at the kick panel. Then again, I have been following your work and imagine it is not much of an impediment for ya. Your work is impeccable. Maybe if I'm lucky I could drive up the coast and you could do a 'laying on of the hands' for my next car.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Alright took out the AVIC-N4 tonight:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Now the new Kenwood DNX8120 w/ the free Rear View Camera:


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## W8 a minute (Aug 16, 2007)

MMMMMM Acid Cigars...


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

W8 a minute said:


> MMMMMM Acid Cigars...


HAHA I figured someone would say something sooner or later!


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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

Echo42987 said:


> Cool thanks.
> 
> I might have to stop by your shop sometime and see what else you'll be able to do for me since I might just keep this simple then bring it to you for the cool stuff


Cool. Anytime. Just let me know when you are going to come by so I make sure I am here.

If you like I can whip you up some MDF tweeter rings and you could temporarily mount them to your A-pillars with some strapping material for a tweeter mount on your trip. That way you will be able to fine tune the aiming and then we can make a permanent mount when you get back. 

That way you will have some time to listen to them and position them how you like.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Echo, things are coming along it looks like. My only questions are regarding the rear faceplate. Of course, I'm not exactly sure about the vehicle, but is there anyway the sub could move up on the faceplate. In an Accord we did, we angled the box to keep it parallel to the road and not the trunk floor and the sub came pretty close to center between the trunk floor and the rear deck. Also, pics and flash may not be doing you justice at all, but the paint seems a little wavy I guess is the word. I like the gloss black and all, but there seem to be a few trouble spots. Were you able to prime it? Not an attack at all, as I really suck at spray painting, but just a suggestion. The primer may help smooth out your top coat. Maybe carpeting around the edges and leaving the center black may help break up the long paint sections. Look forward to the rest of your build, I'll be running Dyns as well.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

InjunV18 said:


> Echo, things are coming along it looks like. My only questions are regarding the rear faceplate. Of course, I'm not exactly sure about the vehicle, but is there anyway the sub could move up on the faceplate. In an Accord we did, we angled the box to keep it parallel to the road and not the trunk floor and the sub came pretty close to center between the trunk floor and the rear deck. Also, pics and flash may not be doing you justice at all, but the paint seems a little wavy I guess is the word. I like the gloss black and all, but there seem to be a few trouble spots. Were you able to prime it? Not an attack at all, as I really suck at spray painting, but just a suggestion. The primer may help smooth out your top coat. Maybe carpeting around the edges and leaving the center black may help break up the long paint sections. Look forward to the rest of your build, I'll be running Dyns as well.


Hey no offense taken. Any help or criticism I can take.

I don't think I follow you on moving the sub up on the faceplate? You mean more space between the bottom of the face and the sub itself?

The paint job was a quick one and not the final result at ALL! lol It has "freckles" from all the MDF floating around in the air still and I still want to sand it again prime it one more time and put one more coat of Gloss Black on there, after that, We are all set.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

12v Electronics said:


> Cool. Anytime. Just let me know when you are going to come by so I make sure I am here.
> 
> If you like I can whip you up some MDF tweeter rings and you could temporarily mount them to your A-pillars with some strapping material for a tweeter mount on your trip. That way you will be able to fine tune the aiming and then we can make a permanent mount when you get back.
> 
> That way you will have some time to listen to them and position them how you like.


Thanks, but you said you were busy this week and I don't want to have you go out of your way for me I would feel bad. Anyways, I think I'm gonna have my buddy whip some together for me as he said he was free this weekend, the guy who helped me w/ the box (I just have to find a way to convince him) 

But as soon as I get done w/ my basic install here I'll head up by you as soon as I can! 

I still might try Fiberglassing myself, but Simplicity said it might not be a good idea to start w/ A-pillars lol which judging from his work he probably knows better then me lol!

Once again everyone who has posted so far THANK YOU SO MUCH

I will be doing a bit more tom night, making a false floor for the back, and then saturday the rest of the build will continue.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Cool, glad to hear about the paint. I understand sometimes you just gotta get that bare MDF covered for the time being. I did mean the space between the bottom of the face and the bottom of the sub, but through looking back, it doesn't look like you can. Just be careful with things that can roll around in the trunk. If you're not a painter, I'm not at all, you may find a friend who has a booth or gun that can lay a quick layer or two of black and then top it with a clearcoat usually for just the cost of the paint. That'll really help with your depth and look. Of course you probably know all about this, and are a master painter, but I'll put it out there anyway. Off to sniff more fiberglass fumes!!!


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

InjunV18 said:


> Cool, glad to hear about the paint. I understand sometimes you just gotta get that bare MDF covered for the time being. I did mean the space between the bottom of the face and the bottom of the sub, but through looking back, it doesn't look like you can. Just be careful with things that can roll around in the trunk. If you're not a painter, I'm not at all, you may find a friend who has a booth or gun that can lay a quick layer or two of black and then top it with a clearcoat usually for just the cost of the paint. That'll really help with your depth and look. Of course you probably know all about this, and are a master painter, but I'll put it out there anyway. Off to sniff more fiberglass fumes!!!


I do know this but am not a painter 

Do you have a buildlog going for your system that your putting together?

There is a false floor that is going to cover about half of the sub. It is going to be built tom. night so I'll have pictures up later that night. I also won't be putting much inside of the trunk, as this is the first time in YEARS I'll ever have trunk space. I usually run dual subs that need a lot of room or cubes. This sub needs a lot more but will perform just fine with how I have it I've heard.

-Nick-


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## brianlin87 (Dec 9, 2007)

lots of CL-S builds lately, nice!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Echo42987 said:


> Do you have a buildlog going for your system that your putting together?


I have one going on for my 2000 Pathfinder as well as a friend's 92 Mustang GT.
Here's the one for my Pathfinder It's on hold until I finish the stang though.

Your idea sounds great, and it should be cool when you get it done. Trunk space is a valuable commodity that a lot of audio guys have to sacrifice but it's great when you can keep it.


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

brianlin87 said:


> lots of CL-S builds lately, nice!


from azine? your car is dope.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Took some more pictures of the sub tonight:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

I wired it for a 2 ohm load, The Dewalt and the New Rigid. Little guy is powerful! Great buy:




























I used my heat schrink terminals to connect the 2 and then I placed Heat Shrink over the extended connections. The Heat Shrink is nice as it has glue and when you heat it the glue makes an even tighter connection.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

douggiestyle said:


> from azine? your car is dope.


I'm on azine yeah. Are you?

Thank you very much! I just got new wheels and tires for it. I have to replace the bumper though as the snow this year demolished it  Just ordered a rear spoiler not long ago either.

I'm planning on debadging it too after all of this.


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## brianlin87 (Dec 9, 2007)

douggiestyle said:


> from azine? your car is dope.


yessir! see you both over there


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

So I have a quick question!

Can I mount the midranges in the center console or will that not sound as good!?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Is there polarity marking on the Dyn speakers as well?

I'm going through them and not seeing anything?


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

I have a really stupid question!

Does it matter the order you hook up your amps? Like + first then - or - first the positive? Does it matter if you have power going to your + already when you hook it up to the amp?

Also can you hook up everything? RCA's, speaker connections, etc to it all at once and then turn the car on or is that bad?


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## Dougie085 (May 2, 2006)

If you're worried about your install abilities then you can hook up the amp and turn on the car and test the outputs and what not on the amp and make sure everything is in properly. Then connect the drivers with the car off probably.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Dougie085 said:


> If you're worried about your install abilities then you can hook up the amp and turn on the car and test the outputs and what not on the amp and make sure everything is in properly. Then connect the drivers with the car off probably.


I was planning on doing that but wasn't sure and never have been if you hook up + first or - first or it just doesn't matter


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## KMelt (Jan 19, 2009)

Nice equipment,that sub looks killer, I'm sure it can throw down some lows.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Ne one answer my question please?


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Echo42987 said:


> I have a really stupid question!
> 
> Does it matter the order you hook up your amps? Like + first then - or - first the positive? Does it matter if you have power going to your + already when you hook it up to the amp?
> 
> Also can you hook up everything? RCA's, speaker connections, etc to it all at once and then turn the car on or is that bad?


I like to be methodical and ALWAYS do Negative cable first. Then RCA's, Speaker cable, remote switch on, then 12V+ last.
(Obviously have everything off when doing this. Pull the main fuse out or disconnect feed from battery.)
Then you can turn on everything at once.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

I had to notch the hole in the door to fit the spider basket on the Dyns:




























I soldered every connection and put heat shrink over it:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Now I know speaker placement isn't perfect but for now this will do. When I've saved up enough money I'll head over to 12v's place and see what he can do for me, I'll just order new door panels:



















I'm going to clean up the tweeter a lot just haven't gotten around to it yet:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Now I didn't have enough room in the Rear 6x9 baffle I made so I just put these on the outside:


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)




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## 12v Electronics (Jun 1, 2008)

How did you get that sub into the box. With a crane? 

I think that is the heaviest sub I have ever lifted. LOL!


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## douggiestyle (Apr 29, 2008)

nice progress. was it hard to take off the rear deck beauty board? i haven't gotten that far in my install.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

12v Electronics said:


> How did you get that sub into the box. With a crane?
> 
> I think that is the heaviest sub I have ever lifted. LOL!


haha Yeah it's one heck of a beast! That ID sub you showed me yesterday you thought hit hard.....This one should hit even harder lol 

Once again thanks Tom!


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

douggiestyle said:


> nice progress. was it hard to take off the rear deck beauty board? i haven't gotten that far in my install.


not hard at all just time consuming as you have to take out the entire rear seat assembly! If you have any questions when you get there PM me. I know where all the bolts and what not are. And to run wires from the HU back is best straight down the center of the car FYI


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## AcuraCl1 (Apr 28, 2005)

I have an 03 acura cl type s 6 speed. Steve McIntyre is doing the install for me. After talking to Steve and Jeff Smith and some others, we figured it was best to put the midranges in kicks facing one another as far back as possible. This seems to be the best area for midranges in the CL. And put midbass in factory door, and tweets in pillars.


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

AcuraCl1 said:


> I have an 03 acura cl type s 6 speed. Steve McIntyre is doing the install for me. After talking to Steve and Jeff Smith and some others, we figured it was best to put the midranges in kicks facing one another as far back as possible. This seems to be the best area for midranges in the CL. And put midbass in factory door, and tweets in pillars.


For the future, this is what I intend on doing! Thank you for the input though!


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