# DJ System Sub



## DEE (Oct 24, 2008)

My liitle bro asked me to build him a subwoofer for his DJ system. He mainly does house parties and school dances. I was thinkin about using a dayton 15 Titanic with a plate amp. What type of box and what tuning and how much power would anyone recommend. He basically wants to add that 60Hz and below to his system which most DJ systems lack.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Those devices were not designed to be utilized in a professional application and will short lived, especially with a DJ behind the wheel.

It's best to buy/build an appropriate subwoofer system with professional grade goods.


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## DEE (Oct 24, 2008)

chad said:


> Those devices were not designed to be utilized in a professional application and will short lived, especially with a DJ behind the wheel.
> 
> It's best to buy/build an appropriate subwoofer system with professional grade goods.


Are you reffering to just the amp.... or both the amp and sub


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Both the amplifier and sub. Both devices lack the cooling needed for the constant high output, great int he home for bumps and shakes but for professional apps in larger rooms, I would not waste the money.


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## DEE (Oct 24, 2008)

chad said:


> Both the amplifier and sub. Both devices lack the cooling needed for the constant high output, great int he home for bumps and shakes but for professional apps in larger rooms, I would not waste the money.


Just to let you know that I'm not trying to start an argument.... But as far as the sub, how would the the operating temp for a DJ system differ from that of a car audio system?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

DEE said:


> Just to let you know that I'm not trying to start an argument.... But as far as the sub, how would the the operating temp for a DJ system differ from that of a car audio system?


You are gonna be dumping a LOT more power into it in a big room with no acoustical low end reinforcement known as cabin gain. And doing it for a much longer period of time. 

Biggest problem with DJ's is that they think a red light means signal present and that they have heard car rigs and think a single 15 in a 2000 sq foot room can and should do the same as a single 15 in a car. That can't be farther from the truth.

Another think to remember is that you really only have to get down to 35-40 cycles, If you saw what was needed to generate a large amount of SPL at lower frequencies in such rooms you'd **** bricks. Shoot for 40 cycles LOUD, be thrilled with 35.

Chad


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## DEE (Oct 24, 2008)

chad said:


> You are gonna be dumping a LOT more power into it in a big room with no acoustical low end reinforcement known as cabin gain. And doing it for a much longer period of time.
> 
> Biggest problem with DJ's is that they think a red light means signal present and that they have heard car rigs and think a single 15 in a 2000 sq foot room can and should do the same as a single 15 in a car. That can't be farther from the truth.
> 
> ...


I understand what your saying about the power required, cabin gain and inexperience on the DJ's behalf.... but with all that aside. What type of box and want kind of tuning would you go with of you were gonna to build a sub for a DJ system. Thanks in advance.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Something tuned at 35-40 that gives a flattish response and houses a very efficient driver.

Like a couple Peavey lowriders in one cab or 2 single cabs with lowriders. They are a damn fine sub for the money and can take the heat.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

The Mach 5 MJ-18M looks to be efficient as hell. Not sure if it fits your application (I have no experience with anything like like this), but figured I would throe it out there.


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## shinjohn (Feb 8, 2006)

Back in my DJ days, I used to lug around horns for bass (folded and exponential); but back then big amps were HEAVY and EXPENSIVE so it made more sense to do so. Today, I see alot of DJs with multiple ported cabs; alot smaller and still pretty efficient. I'd make sure in any case to get a good processor/crossover/EQ WITH subsonic filtering, esp. when using ported cabs. That will really reduce the chance of over-excursion (easy to do with pro gear, esp. if you still spin vinyl).

I still like horns for their efficiency. Build out of plywood (MDF is impractical for DJ use) and the stiffness is good enough. Carpet over top and metal corners so it can take a beating. I used to have a dual 15" exponential horn that was modular and could break down for transport. Used pro-gear draw catches to hold it together and it functioned great. Had a 3'x4' mouth, and when corner loaded it was perfect for most small to medium sized gigs; could dig deep enough, and was damn loud. I wish I had pictures of that thing it was one of the funnest speaker projects I ever designed and built!

And I completely agree with Chad, pro-gear only for PA use. JBL, Peavey, Selenium, and EV all make great component drivers .


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## DEE (Oct 24, 2008)

cool......I appreciate the responses


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## vecc205 (Nov 18, 2007)

You could check out partsexpress.com and look at some of the pro audio drivers they got there. They carry Selenium, B&C, JBL, Eminence, Peavey, EV, and Dayton even makes a pro audio subwoofer.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

vecc205 said:


> You could check out partsexpress.com and look at some of the pro audio drivers they got there. They carry Selenium, B&C, JBL, Eminence, Peavey, EV, and Dayton even makes a pro audio subwoofer.


That dayton 15" pro driver could not handle vocal monitor duties for some reason 

But they are LOUD monitors, lesser drivers handle it tho


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## vecc205 (Nov 18, 2007)

chad said:


> That dayton 15" pro driver could not handle vocal monitor duties for some reason
> 
> But they are LOUD monitors, lesser drivers handle it tho


That is weird, yea i never got to listen to dayton's pro audio stuff but I like everything else they have.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

vecc205 said:


> That is weird, yea i never got to listen to dayton's pro audio stuff but I like everything else they have.


It seemed well built, I wonder if I still ahve it around here to cut it up and look at. It was weird that ir went, especially in parallel to a MUCH lesser driver in a like cab


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Now I can't remember what those sucers have in them, one is a peavy black widow, it replaced the Dayton... hmmmmmmm


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## seagrasser (Feb 6, 2007)

I like this guy.

Pretty good sensitivity and ALOT of xmax for a pro driver

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-676


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## MaxPowers (Oct 25, 2007)

how much are you willing to spend? that will help narrow down your choices pretty quick. if your in so cal, you will prob. be better off buying some used stuff off ebay/craigslist. if you were looking at a dayton sub and a plate amp, im guessing you are looking to spend a total of $1000 right?

if you want an 18", $300 each, 18 sounds 18lw1400 is a good choice. they have enclosure plans on their website. 
http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product.asp?specific=jrerhnq0

figure you get two of those, leaves you $400 for an amp.


DIY does not mean its gonna cost less. my DIY DJ/live sound rig im building is has set me back almost $5000 and im still dont have monitors, power conditioner, a snake, and microphone cables.


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