# 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe (first full SQ build) THIS WILL BE SLOW



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

ok, so I just picked up my new car a few weeks ago. I knew I wanted to do an SQ build once I got a new car, so I had already started ordering parts in a while back. I originally was really thinking the Scion FRS which was amazing and all for those of you who havent seen or drivin one yet.  But, unfortunately it was too small for my daughter to fit in the back seat and have any bit of leg room.
Regardless, I wanted a RWD coupe, so I ended up with the genesis coupe, and might I say I am plenty impressed with this car. That being said, I am on to the audio.
The reason I say this will be a slow build is because of two reasons, first, my wife is anti custom anything for like 4-6 months until she realizes that something is not exactly what she wants, so she is being pissy about me wanting to change things immediatly. And, two, because I am back under a car note, and its not like a live life in luxury... so this will be pieced together piece by piece as the time and money comes. 
Ok, now that you know the forethought into this car and background a little bit, its on to what I am seeing coming out of this build, and some of the things I have accomplished so far.

Source Unit:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Now, since this only does 3 way active, I am planning on sending networks 1&2 into a miniDSP (2x4) and allowing it to process my front stage, since I am planning on running a 4-way active system. I know I should have found a 4-way active deck, but as stated before, I am limited on funds so I am going to make this work.

Front stage:
Peerless 830855 SDS 4" Woofer
Vifa XT25SC90-04 Ring Radiator Tweeter

Again there is was another hick-up here because I was counting on the FRS being the perfect car, lol, so lesson learned never buy speakers before you test drive a car. Deal is, I am going to run these 4"s since I have them, and if they dont end up sounding the way I want them I will just order some 6" and use the 4's for some home theater book shelfs.

Mid-Bass: (Rear speaker location)
Peerless SLS 830667, 8" Paper Cone Woofer

Sub stage:
I havent quite figured it out yet, and I am still looking into opinions if you have any, but I was thinking a 10" Alpine Type S fired Infinite Baffle through the rear deck in the factory sub location. If any of you have run the new type S IB let me know what you think.
I am not wanting to lose a lot of trunk space with this car, so we will see how things turn out with this.

Amplifiers:
Kenwood KAC-8402 x2 one for front stage, and one for the 8s
Kenwood KAC-9102D sub stage

I have had one 4ch and the mono for a long time and they have served me well over the years, so when I figured I was going to run active, I figured I would scour the planet for another 4ch the bridge on the 8's. Miraculously I found one, and the rest will be history.

Now that I have bored you enough, on to what has been accomplished. (in order from vehicle purchase)



















actually ordered these in and recieved them before purchase of the car



















I plan on running active, but I figured I would through some caps inline at a much lower frequency shut off that I plan on running, but high enough in hopes not to damage the drivers


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Next adventure was swapping head units, I already had my 80prs in my civic prior to this car, so I figured I would go ahead and swap out the factory HU since it was not working for me. One thing I wanted to make sure I did was integrate the factory center console USB so it didn't go to waste.

extension wires spliced using wires that match my USB cable wires so I didnt get confused while actually wiring up the cable. Thanks to chevbowtie22 for lending a hand when I needed a couple more than my own.



















soldered and heat shrinked up










works like a champ


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Got my Blendmount escort radar detector mount in and installed, figured I'd go ahead and post it up and show it off.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I figured I could go ahead and start on the amp rack since I could do most of it at work and keep it there. At this point I need to hide it because I still havent made the first payment yet, and she will not be happy if she knows about all this.

So here is the stock trunk area




























I did the tried and true knock and stick method where I heard the most resonance for the dynamat. I also applied it behind the side carpet, but forgot to snap some pics, but rest assured, it is there.



















I ran out of dynamat at this point, there will be more coverage later. I just got where I needed at this point where the amp rack will be covering so I dont have to pull it out again later.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Now onto the building of the amp rack. I assume this is pretty self explanitory, post up if you have any questions.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Your system will only be as good as the weakest link, with 4" drivers you are going to be very limited,,,,,IMO you need to move the 4" speakers to the back for rear fill and eliminate the 8" midbass....add 6.5(or maybe your 8") midbass drivers to the front

If not, your system will lack any type of upfront midbass


----------



## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looking good so far!


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Hurry up and get this done buddy. We need to get started on mine. Lol.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

trojan fan said:


> Your system will only be as good as the weakest link, with 4" drivers you are going to be very limited,,,,,IMO you need to move the 4" speakers to the back for rear fill and eliminate the 8" midbass....add 6.5(or maybe your 8") midbass drivers to the front
> 
> If not, your system will lack any type of upfront midbass


I'm not denying you one bit, but like I posted. I am going to run these and give them a shot, the 8's are going to play between 100-300 hz so I am hoping that localization won't be an issue. But again like I said, if I am disappointed with the way these turn out, I will change. But at this point, the way it's all laid out I shouldn't have an issue with localization, and it should turn out very clean and smooth sounding. I do appreciate the input though, because my thoughts were the same.


----------



## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

Nice work so far. Good call on the inline caps.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I liked mine while I had it. Is yours a base? I wanted the blue, but it wasn't available yet when I bought mine.

I'll keep an eye on this.

Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

No, it's the 2.0T premium, I read through what you had of your build, wish I could have seen a completed project... Seems like all the gen coupe forums out there are kind of a joke, or very performance oriented, liked what you did while you had it.
Oh yea, and I get lots of compliments on the color.
Thanks to everyone else too.. Stay tuned.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

airseeker said:


> I shouldn't have an issue with localization, and it should turn out very clean and smooth sounding.


If you are looking for sound quality you're going in the wrong direction....

Do it right the first time and avoid headaches down the road,,,


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

trojan fan said:


> If you are looking for sound quality you're going in the wrong direction....
> 
> Do it right the first time and avoid headaches down the road,,,


I do appreciate the input, and I will keep that information in mind if I am unsatisfied with the sound.


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Nothing huge in the additions department, but I got the amps dropped into place and the 0awg ground in with a JL audio body lag bolt.










Here is the lag bolt.










and grounded.


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

chevbowtie22 said:


> Nothing huge in the additions department, but I got the amps dropped into place and the 0awg ground in with a JL audio body lag bolt.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would put some heat shrink or electrical tape around the ground connector being that close to the deadening.Nice work on the amp rack.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Yeah, the Gen Coupe forums are pretty bad if you're an audio guy. I bet there were like 50 "Can I add an amp to my factory radio?" posts. Nobody uses search.

RWDcoupe.com and Gencoupe.com are about the same...except RWD doesn't have as much traffic.

Jay


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> Yeah, the Gen Coupe forums are pretty bad if you're an audio guy. I bet there were like 50 "Can I add an amp to my factory radio?" posts. Nobody uses search.
> 
> RWDcoupe.com and Gencoupe.com are about the same...except RWD doesn't have as much traffic.
> 
> Jay


yea, I kind of picked up on that, there was actually a HUGE post about why you CANNOT adapt to the factory USB and how all these idiots were spouting off at the mouth. Regardless, I joined, got my 10 posts and posted pics on how I did it..... oddly enough, no one has responded to that thread.:laugh:


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

HA, ignore those posts were posted by CHEVBOWTIE22, we share the same computer at work and for some reason it continually keeps him logged in... oh well... he helped me bolt that lag bolt in LOL


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> I would put some heat shrink or electrical tape around the ground connector being that close to the deadening.Nice work on the amp rack.


out of curiosity... Why? surely that wont create any kind of sound... I have done installs like that many times on previous vehicles and never really had an issue. Not doubting you, just wondering.


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

airseeker said:


> out of curiosity... Why? surely that wont create any kind of sound... I have done installs like that many times on previous vehicles and never really had an issue. Not doubting you, just wondering.


Once I had some speakers wires touch the foil on the deadener and the amp shorted.Just saying if the connector comes in contact with the foil it might not ground properly,only looking out.Good luck with the build.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

chevbowtie22 said:


> yea, I kind of picked up on that, there was actually a HUGE post about why you CANNOT adapt to the factory USB and how all these idiots were spouting off at the mouth. Regardless, I joined, got my 10 posts and posted pics on how I did it..... oddly enough, no one has responded to that thread.:laugh:


Typical. The best thing I learned from that site was to register on HMAservice.com. It's a free site, and you can get all kinds of wiring info and stuff on it. Kia has a similar site, kiatechinfo.com.

I would have grabbed the Metra harness for the car (70-7303) and bought a few of them (or the Audi/VW equivalent) and repinned it to get my USB wires so I didn't have to tap in to the factory wiring, but I'm OCD like that. LOL

Sick of "Transfer Complete" yet? LOL

Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Once I had some speakers wires touch the foil on the deadener and the amp shorted.Just saying if the connector comes in contact with the foil it might not ground properly,only looking out.Good luck with the build.


I appreciate the concern, but speaker wires are one thing, it's actual AC voltage. A ground is a ground and shouldn't matter if foil touches. But again, I appreciate the keeping an eye out.


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

airseeker said:


> I appreciate the concern, but speaker wires are one thing, it's actual AC voltage. A ground is a ground and shouldn't matter if foil touches. But again, I appreciate the keeping an eye out.


No problem,build on my friend


----------



## Octave (Dec 12, 2010)

Looking good so far but some critics.

I agree with everyone if you're going to run the 8's as midbass they really should be up front. You don't have to experiment. It'll be localized to the rear. I would throw them in the door and do the tweet / 4 in the kicks, or tweet / 4 in the pillars if there's room.

If you're thinking of keeping the 8's you might want want to look into a 12 instead of a 10. The 10 is to close in frequency output of the 8. A 12 will better serve you.

O, and lastly. Get rid of that barrier strip for your speaker connections. Every break in the signal is a voltage drop and will effect your overall SQ. I don't know why people love putting those on speaker connections.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I thought about kicks, but I hate them, I think they are wayyy to localized. I would love to do a-pillars, but my wife would flip ****.
And as far as rear fill, I'm not really looking for that either. I know someone who ran these 8's as rear midbass before and he claims they weren't localized. That's what drew me to them.
And everything is about experimentation with this build for me. Don't get me wrong, I don't expect to be extremely impressed with 4's in the doors. But I do have them and I still plan on giving them a shot. And if they don't sound good the only thing that was wasted was a little time and some mdf. But let's say I ordered the 6"s without ever giving the 4's a shot. That's money wasted. Don't get me wrong... I understand where everyone is coming from, but I only have so much dough to roll with being that I am back in the car note game.
As far as the sub stage goes, I really appreciate that input... I'm so undecided about it right now. I'm so used to having my type R 12" in a ported enclosure. At this point though I don't want to lose trunk space because that's what I did in my civic and regretted it every time I needed it.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Octave said:


> I agree with everyone if you're going to run the 8's as midbass they really should be up front. You don't have to experiment. It'll be localized to the rear. I would throw them in the door and do the tweet / 4 in the kicks, or tweet / 4 in the pillars if there's room..


Hey dude, the install looks good so far, but it's really the sound quality that counts...if it's a budget issue, save some more coin and do it right

Maybe were're :dead_horse:


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Aren't you done yet? Haha.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

chevbowtie22 said:


> Aren't you done yet? Haha.


No, and its because you haven't donated to the "airseeker needs coin for his build bank" fund. some friend you are.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Just a minor update today. I ended up with a little time on my hands to get some work done. Not much, just enough to keep you interested


----------



## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Looking good so far, integrating the factory USB port is a nice touch.

I'm sorta on the fence about the midbass issue - we all know where they are *supposed* to go, but it doesn't hurt to try something different. Who knows, it might work out, and if it doesn't, you'll be able to hear why for yourself.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Chaos said:


> Looking good so far, integrating the factory USB port is a nice touch.
> 
> I'm sorta on the fence about the midbass issue - we all know where they are *supposed* to go, but it doesn't hurt to try something different. Who knows, it might work out, and if it doesn't, you'll be able to hear why for yourself.


Thanks... OHH and trust me, I am on the fence about it too. But to apease the wife, I am doing everything factory locations since this is a "new" car to me. All I keep thinking is, give it a shot, if it sounds great, great. But if it doesnt, I had already contemplated how this is going to work. So if it doesnt work out, I will cram the 8" midbass in the doors and do a 4" tweet a-pillar. Or just do a 4" a-pillar and tweeter in the factory location. But if I am doing a pillar anyways, I will probably go ahead and do both 4 and tweet. Again tho, this is ONLY if factory locations doesnt work out well.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

another *small update *on the slow yet ongoing build. I had some time and some spare 0awg today, so I decided to get a little ahead of the game before the rest of my 0awg comes in. 

I started looking for a good spot to mount a circuit breaker. To no avail on something that would look halfway decent, I decided it was time to fabricate something small. Grabbed some ABS and started looking, and this is what I came up with.



















It wasnt quite sturdy enough at this point so I grabbed a couple of small pieces of ABS and epoxy'd them under to have more regidity. This was done because I am mounting to a single factory fusebox mount, and I wanted it to be a little sturdier than what the single piece of 1/8" ABS could offer.










Mounted










Wired, well, to the battery!!










Oh, and apprently my camera has crappy depth preception because the mount is a solid 8" away from that heat shield... no worrys, its not touching.


----------



## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looks good. Might as well take care of all the things you can while waiting for the rest of your goodies to arrive! 

In my new CUV I'm having trouble right now trying to find a good spot near the battery for my circuit breaker. There is a lot of room under the hood everywhere but near the battery.  The designers/engineers decided that it would be a good idea to place the air intake tube (more like a 2" tall by 10" wide slot port) directly over the battery. :-/ The air intake tube comes off very easily to access the battery, but the air intake filter box sits just behind the battery so the "tube" cannot be easily rerouted. Any decent spot to mount it where it is easily accessible is over 23" away. Go figure. :-/


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

bbfoto said:


> Looks good. Might as well take care of all the things you can while waiting for the rest of your goodies to arrive!
> 
> In my new CUV I'm having trouble right now trying to find a good spot near the battery for my circuit breaker. There is a lot of room under the hood everywhere but near the battery.  The designers/engineers decided that it would be a good idea to place the air intake tube (more like a 2" tall by 10" wide slot port) directly over the battery. :-/ The air intake tube comes off very easily to access the battery, but the air intake filter box sits just behind the battery so the "tube" cannot be easily rerouted. Any decent spot to mount it where it is easily accessible is over 23" away. Go figure. :-/




Thanks, and sorry to hear about your troubles. Minds become inventive, you will figure something out I am sure.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

ok, again got some time again today. and I really didnt want to do this until I got a few more parts in, but figured I would go ahead and knock out the cuts so I can get the fit-n-finish right before I actaully throw the carpet on and call it done.

So, what you are looking at here is my top layer of the false floor. I am having to do this is 4 pieces because of how the trunk is shaped I will have to unfold it while in the trunk, then actually slide it under the buldges where the tail light assemblies come in to the trunk a little. Either way... on to the pics. This is just after the cuts were completed and lightly sanded to test fit. Carpet and the center chunk will come later.


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Looks great. So far its turning out pretty damn good. Now hurry up and get it finished. Lol.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

chevbowtie22 said:


> Looks great. So far its turning out pretty damn good. Now hurry up and get it finished. Lol.


Thanks buddy, and just for future reference, your a douche... just sayin.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Tiny minor update for the day, took the "cut outs" out the floor, glued them back together as one piece, then made the insert that will be what covers the amps while they arent being shown off. Now all I have to do to finish this floor is pick up some carpet and a metal grill to fill the gap.

oh fyi the black marks on this are where I will route out to keep the grill flush.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Newest update to this lagging project. I ran down to the local fabric supply and picked up some carpet, as well as received the perferated grill that is going over the removeable section (thank you Bing, for where you get yours). On to the pics.

I routed around where the grill would sit, so that it would sit flush. Stapled it in, but forgot to take a pic of it alone. So here are the rest of the installed pics. I still need to pick up some more carpet for the removeable piece.


----------



## jooonnn (Jul 26, 2009)

awesome that you can add a headunit to your car! i suffer from the track edition with premium navigation that looks to be very limited on possible dask kits 

love the trunk too!


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I debated running factory HU and putting a 7" tablet in the factory Nav location running through aux, would that work for ya? Haven't looked into the '13 dash much.
Thanks on the trunk too, hopefully I'll get some time to work on it soon, now that I'm back in class, time is even more limited than before.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

jooonnn said:


> awesome that you can add a headunit to your car! i suffer from the track edition with premium navigation that looks to be very limited on possible dask kits
> 
> love the trunk too!


Did they change the dash for 2013? 

Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Yea quite a bit. They made it more "luxurious" I'm not a fan, I think they put form before function for 2013


----------



## jooonnn (Jul 26, 2009)

I believe the electronics are slightly different too I'll have to show a pic of the diagrams when I find them

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

They should be on HMAservice.com.

Hyundai ruined these cars with the front end change.

Jay


----------



## jooonnn (Jul 26, 2009)

JayinMI said:


> They should be on HMAservice.com.
> 
> Hyundai ruined these cars with the front end change.
> 
> Jay


Ya that's what I used to figure out the right wires to tap into. I actually had the choice of buying the 2012 and 2013 in person and greatly preferred the front end on the 2013 over the 2012 but only in black and red. The other colors didn't seem to flow as well with the new front end. 


Sent from my Nexus 7


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

jooonnn said:


> Ya that's what I used to figure out the right wires to tap into. I actually had the choice of buying the 2012 and 2013 in person and greatly preferred the front end on the 2013 over the 2012 but only in black and red. The other colors didn't seem to flow as well with the new front end.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7


I agree, I like the new bumper only on black and red and maybe white, but the new hood looks good all the way around. The '13 front end begs to have the "mouth" flat black tho... Like the vw's


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Ok, got side tracked there for a little while and haven't had a whole lot of time to do much. But, I did get a couple minor things accomplished. 

I got a flush mount USB that I put in the "handle" of the removable cover for the taillight access. This will be for my miniDSP once I collect enough pennies for that. I wanted this out of the way, and didn't really need it up front anywhere since I wont be using it that often. As well as I have enough USB extensions I can run whenever I actually need to to do the tuning.










I also ordered a sub that everyone keeps telling me will work sweet for IB... I feel like an idiot ordering and even contemplating using this sub, but it does model out to a decent spec so we will see. And if not i'm only out $30 for it, so what they hell. PYLE PLW12BL










I also made the bracket/baffle that will give me clearance for excursion and mounting ability since this sub will be underhung from the factory 8" location since I do not particularly want to cut the hole any larger if it is not necesary.










I also talked to Rick from Ramm Audio, got some deadening ordered. Rick was real nice and helpful, can't really sing enough of his praises. I got some of the deadening done in the rear deck area... forgot to take pics of that. But I have to tear it back apart to mount the sub baffle, so once that comes back off, I will snap a couple pics to post. More and more will be coming sooner than this update.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

jooonnn said:


> Ya that's what I used to figure out the right wires to tap into. I actually had the choice of buying the 2012 and 2013 in person and greatly preferred the front end on the 2013 over the 2012 but only in black and red. The other colors didn't seem to flow as well with the new front end.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7





airseeker said:


> I agree, I like the new bumper only on black and red and maybe white, but the new hood looks good all the way around. The '13 front end begs to have the "mouth" flat black tho... Like the vw's


Actually, I feel the same way about the front end of the Veloster. It actually looks pretty good in white.

Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I love the velostar... It is sick... If i were in the market for a new car, they would definitely be on my list of "have to check out"


----------



## jooonnn (Jul 26, 2009)

Have you done any performance mods to the gen?

Sent from my Nexus 7


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

No, not yet. I want to knock out a few, but I want to get the audio done first. It is a project that has a visible light at the end of the tunnel. I have always noticed that once performance takes priority, it becomes a never ending project. Since this is my daily, I want to get my interior convenience done first and go from there. Once I get audio and interior where I as the driver am comfortable I will know how much power I will need to add to compensate for the weight I have added due to audio lol. BUT I WANT AN EXHAUST SOO BAD... This car is begging for one... need more cheddar tho.


----------



## jooonnn (Jul 26, 2009)

airseeker said:


> No, not yet. I want to knock out a few, but I want to get the audio done first. It is a project that has a visible light at the end of the tunnel. I have always noticed that once performance takes priority, it becomes a never ending project. Since this is my daily, I want to get my interior convenience done first and go from there. Once I get audio and interior where I as the driver am comfortable I will know how much power I will need to add to compensate for the weight I have added due to audio lol. BUT I WANT AN EXHAUST SOO BAD... This car is begging for one... need more cheddar tho.


I kinda bought an exhaust on an impulse a few weeks after i got my car and ....it pretty much felt "right" after i had it on. Stop delaying


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Lol, I'm more than happy to start a charity named "I need an exhaust for car" if you're willing to send some money this way lol


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Got the back end ripped out again today and mounted the sub ring and the sub. There are still some gaps around the ring where it didnt snug up to the sheet metal real well, so I will be layering on some ramm mat or foarm filling to seperate the waves. Once I get home, I will fold the seats down again and take pics of the top of the rear deck to show that half off, even though it is not much to look at.

Glad this sub isn't real deep, only hangs about 1" lower than the factor 8"


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Ironically that sub matches your car,atleast in the pic it looks that way.Keep up the good work.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Ironically that sub matches your car,atleast in the pic it looks that way.Keep up the good work.


Lol actually they offer this sub in red and blue... I figured red would clash. The blue is pretty close, maybe a shade or two off minus the flake in the clear. Thanks too, more is coming.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Alright, I am working on deadening the rear seat area, and started pondering the rear speaker mounting. The way the OEM rear speakers are mounted seems dumb but effective I guess. Regardless, I am cramming 8's back here and wanted to catch everyones thoughts. 

This is the rear speaker mounted.










This is an above view, kinda get the gist of how this is mounted?










And this is what it looks like with the speaker removed.










I am thinking two different ways here, and this is where I need help deciding.

1) Try to make a mount similar to the factory to get the right angle and hope it fits in the indented area.
--OR--
2) Just cut the indented area out and cut a ring to mount to the metal and mount the speaker directly to it.

I have plenty of room behind that spot as far as depth goes, so that wont be a problem. Of course these 8"s will be nothing more than midbass, probably no more than 300Hz or so, so I'm not entirely concered with directionality either. Let me know what you guys would do, or your thoughts in general. Again, thanks.


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Man that's a tough one. That just seems dumb the way the factory mounted that speaker. Does it look like that chunk of steel is in anyway a part of the crash zone a form of structural strength of the car? Looking at the pics and if it were my car I would cut and mount the 8.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

As far as looking like a structual area or a crumple zone, it doesn't appear to be. Only issue with cutting it would be the new mounting ring out prevent one clip holding on that plastic panel, but where it is there are already four more mounting clips plus a couple other panels that would hold it in tight as well as the seats.
I pretty much had my mind made up, I just wanted some reassurance. thanks.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Progress report time.

Rear deck ramm matted + ensolite from ramm audio










peep hole










Driver side... OEM speaker still there until I can have a chance to cut it out, then some more deadening and ensolite will go on










Under the seat, didn't need much, just enough.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Got a chance again to work on the car again. I decided to bite the bullet and just cut the hole to mount the speaker within the panel. Still working on it all, but here is a fitment pic.


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

So your coming in to mount the passenger side today right? I'm bored and I really want to get that deck switched over to network mode so we can really hear how those 8's sound.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

chevbowtie22 said:


> So your coming in to mount the passenger side today right? I'm bored and I really want to get that deck switched over to network mode so we can really hear how those 8's sound.


as much as I would love to, I have some school work to do.


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

That stuff is over rated. Lol.


----------



## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Have you read any of Richards stuff? You know the Grand National had rear midbass drivers. So, it can be done and sound great. I would try and get your hands on everything he has ever said about that build. I may even have some old install mags laying around, I'll look for them. I know at one time I had everything that was ever written about that car.

Stick with it, you'll be able to figure it all out.

Cheers,
Scott


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I have read trough the grand national build, as well as another thread that had to do with "cone of confusion" can't exactly remember who posted. But, it did make me feel a lot better about what I was doing. The plan for this car is to keep everything looking as stock as possible while still maintaining a dynamic sound. I am not working towards a world class car by any means since this is of course my first SQ build as well as my daily driver. As chevbowtie mentioned, my deck is not in network mode yet, it is still running basic mode, because I am running the OEM front stage off HU power until I get power wire I just ordered yesterday. I will also continue to have to run HU power until I get the money to order a 2x4 miniDSP to run the front stage active. preliminary testing of the sub and the one 8" sound amazing, but I can tell the sound was drawn rearwards with the 8's not being crossed bandpassed yet, its only highpassed right now. I know it will be able to come back forward once I am able to properly cross it, and should be able to achieve a full on "up front" sound once I get my more efficient front stage in as well. Thanks for the support guys, I do appreciate it. And a big thanks to chevbowtie for all the help he has thrown in on this project.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

again some time to work on this nonsense yesterday... I know you guys probably understand what was done to get the 8" in that side panel, but I figured I'd do a step by step just in case you were wondering.

First the speaker and amp, and amp panel were removed to allow access.










Then the nice round hole was cut... I assume that's where the speaker is going 










Yay Ramm Mat










Inside the panel and fender well.










Cut my mounting ring, and drilled holes to run a screw through... hammered washers into the holes. There is one part where it looked like the ring wanted to split. I put some wood glue around it all to keep it from opening up.










premaid closed cell foam speaker rings that I had laying around were cut up and glued to the back.










Ring mounted, and ramm mat stuck around it to seal some gaps. As well as the amp panel is back on with ramm mat and peel and stick ensolite.










I need to do some more ramm mat and ensolite sticking in the back, get the speaker in, and then it should be time to start putting panels back on.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Well finally with the demise of hurricane sandy my package from honk kong finally made it through new york and to my door step. Finally I have my miniDSP to split the signal of my mid bass and mids. I will hopefully get some work in soon and get my trunk put back together.
I still need to make the call to Rick to get some more raammat, once I get that in, I should have everything I need to move full steam ahead on this project. The light at the end of the tunnel is near on this audio project.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

I feel like it has been entirely too long for me to have not posted anything... and boy was I right... I found my thread back on page 5 of this thing.  Either way, I have done a few things since, well, 5 pages ago  Well I got my DIYMA power wire in, and I have to say it feels like stretch arm strongs arms. I just think it feels loose in the jacket, but I'm sure that has to do with it's flexibility.

OEM Ground










0 gauge










50 feet biatches










Circuit breaker on the custom panel, with wire connected.










The OEM ground wanted to break every time I tried to loosen it. So I pried it off, and used a kicker battery terminal... It's what I had available to me.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

For some reason I feel like this picture looks better, might as well throw it in now before I lose it.










I got the miniDSP in a while ago, but never really posted pics of anything for some reason. But here is the un-boxing of the miniDSP and miniDC isolator. 










Since these were going to be buried in the amp rack, I needed a good way to "not smash" the soldered side, nor did I want to crack the board. I ended up super gluing some 16 gauge grommets on the bottom of the boards as spacers to elevate them slightly.










see, perfect










I for some reason never took an installed pic of the miniDSP and isolator... I will do that as soon as I can get a chance.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

After using the miniDSP to change up some crossover points in the 8's, I noticed they weren't exactly sounding how I wanted them to in the large open area of the 1/4 panels. TIME TO GET INVENTIVE... well not really... I went to wal*mart and got some egg-crate and started shoving... 3/4 of a queen sized egg-crate shoved into place MWA HAHAHA, sounds much better actually, more "punchy" for kick drums.





































I still need to get some more deadening in so that I can get started on the front stage of this build.. I have been restricted with money at the moment to be able to call and order some more. I will as soon as the holidays are over... minor updates here and there will probably pop up here and there.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Ok, so, it has been awhile since I have done any updating, and I am sorry for those who were following. I got sidetracked a little bit with some different projects, as well as family things with the holidays, and then of course being busy installing Christmas presents for people. I have done quite a bit of work on my car, and will share shortly.

Chevbowtie22 has helped me with a couple of boxes that I thought turned out pretty good and figured I would post on here instead of opening a new thread if anyone cared to see.

This was for a 2008 Chrysler Sebring
SA8-V2
.7ish cu ft and 54" of port.









This one was for a 2011? Nissan Parthfinder
IDQ10 and ID 5ch (not sure of the model number)


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

Ok, now on to my car.

I finally got around to having the blue/purple tint that was on the car ripped out and retinted in a better film. I had no issues until I turned up my sub, and noticed it sounded awful. I figured for sure they blew my sweet pyle audio woofer, until I looked into the rear view mirror and saw what looked like old faithful blowing its spout. I climbed into the rear seat and stuck my hand down and this is what I felt and saw.





Thank jeebus that this wasn't a paper cone woofer.

My pictures are few and far between, but I still have a couple of panels off and I will need to take the door cards back off here soon anyways so I will snap a couple of more pictures once they are off again.

But these are the rear quater panels with Dynamat and ensolite going on.



This is the back of the driver door panel, but of course, this is what they both look like.





Preparing the mids to go in the doors
I figured that since I had a little bit of room to work with I would put them at an angle to get a little more directionality out of the stock location.



yay for foam cups



Just a little bit of insurance in place.



Everything mounted to the baffle.



And finally trimmed up.



The tweeter was then mounted, again in the stock location.
Then a layer of ensolite was added to help keep all sound headed in the right direction.



These are all the pictures I have now, but like I said, i will take a few more here soon and keep you updated. Hopefully a little faster this time.


----------



## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

airseeker said:


> .7ish cu ft and 54" of port.


How's the group delay on that sucker? lol

Looks good man, keep it up.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

lol, there is very little if any group delay. Every note seems to be as precise as it can be. Especially coming from a sub that really seems to be made for SPL. Although, I guess it is just an 8"

Thanks man, I appreciate it


----------



## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Did you get the replacement tweeter put in yet? I want to make sure you get it back to 100% before we go ahead and swap out for the horns. Haha.


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

chevbowtie22 said:


> Did you get the replacement tweeter put in yet? I want to make sure you get it back to 100% before we go ahead and swap out for the horns. Haha.


I have the tweeter sitting here, but I have not put it in yet. I might be able to get it in Thursday hopefully.


----------



## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looking great. Glad to see you've still been working on this. And sorry about your sub. 

What size are those mids? Have you got the system up and running yet? I would think that the mids might need a little bit more air space? I think that they're going to sound "nasally" in those small foam baffle cups and you'll probably get quite a bit of the rear wave reflection back through the front of the cone. Just my .02 but really nice work on the fabrication and those sub enclosures.


----------



## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Re: The directionality on those baffles- 
Be careful. Those do not appear to be a flat, even mounting surface. The cut doesnt look clean. If you torque down the basket to that, you could warp it.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

airseeker said:


> Ok, now on to my car.


Yeah, a lot of tinters leave water everywhere without being careful or wiping it down. One guy I know tinted an Audi A5 or A6 and got the factory amp wet...that was a n expensive lesson.


Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

bbfoto said:


> Looking great. Glad to see you've still been working on this. And sorry about your sub.
> 
> What size are those mids? Have you got the system up and running yet? I would think that the mids might need a little bit more air space? I think that they're going to sound "nasally" in those small foam baffle cups and you'll probably get quite a bit of the rear wave reflection back through the front of the cone. Just my .02 but really nice work on the fabrication and those sub enclosures.


What size are those mids? They are 4" in the front, and 8" mid-bass in the rear.

Have you got the system up and running yet? It is up and running, unfortunately, like chevbowtie22 mentioned, I am down a driver side tweeter. When I was pulling the speaker lead off to modify things in my door, I pulled the terminal out of the tweeter. Another one showed up on my door step, and planning on putting it back in tomorrow or Thursday.

I would think that the mids might need a little bit more air space? You really think so, even for a 4" that are only crossed down to 250hz with a 12db slope? I think it sounds pretty good, and the cup gives them a little bit more of that low end umph. But any suggestions are appreciated.

I think that they're going to sound "nasally" in those small foam baffle cups and you'll probably get quite a bit of the rear wave reflection back through the front of the cone. I don't really get a nasally noise from them. The thought process behind the cups were water protection since they are paper cones. Would you suggest cutting out the backs, poking holes, or just removing all together and coming up with different protection. It would be nice to have someone who has a "world class" car listen to it and let me know what they think. I have never heard a world class car and no one around here has anything "amazing"


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> Yeah, a lot of tinters leave water everywhere without being careful or wiping it down. One guy I know tinted an Audi A5 or A6 and got the factory amp wet...that was a n expensive lesson.
> 
> 
> Jay


That is an expensive mistake. Who paid for a new one? Tinter or owner? At least it was something that isn't important if a large audio set up was planned, or can by bypassed at the very least if a new HU was going in.


----------



## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

The tinter paid for it. The car was only getting tint.
Had that been the factory sub in your car (paper cone), that could have damaged the sub.
He got lucky.

Jay


----------



## airseeker (Nov 13, 2011)

JayinMI said:


> The tinter paid for it. The car was only getting tint.
> Had that been the factory sub in your car (paper cone), that could have damaged the sub.
> He got lucky.
> 
> Jay


Well that's good that it got replaced (not on his dime)
Yea I would have made them buy me a new one. I called them and gave them a heads up that if this damaged my sub they would be buying a new one... even tho it was only $25


----------

