# 2012 Ford F150 Raptor



## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

We recently did an install on a 2012 Ford F150 Raptor for a DIY member, so I figured this would be a good one to show a build thread for.

We didn't get as good of pictures as I would have liked, but you should be able to get an idea. This is my first thread imbedding pictures along the way, so hopefully this works out well! The install was done by our tech Brian Schurg. Thanks to Landen for driving 2 1/2 hours up to have the install done!

The system was integrated into the factory sync system, and consisted of the following.

- Audio Control LCQ-1 w/ sub knob
- JL Audio Cleansweep SSI Summing module (seems repetitive, but there was a reason)
- Alpine PDX-V9 5 Channel Amplifier
- Alpine SWRT10 Shallow 10" Subwoofer
- Hertz Hi-Energy HSK165x1 Component Set
- Hertz ECX570 5x7" co-axles











Nice looking truck! 










Center Console pulled










Wires located for the front doors, tweeters, and subwoofer and interfaced into the Cleansweep SSI

More to come, want to post this up and make sure its working right! (newb)


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Wiring under the console cleaned up and prepped to go to the next piece of the puzzle, the LCQ-1 in the center console. 










Some of you are likely wondering why we had the SSI, as well as the LCQ-1, when the LCQ-1 does summing as well? Thanks to some good intell from our friends at JML Audio, that have done one of these before, we knew that the factory Sony amp had some major issues with oscillating and just generally freaking out with no "load" present. They have been known to be just fine initially, but give problems later. The SSI presents a load to the factory system as well as summing, so we added it to the equation to play it safe.

We missed some pictures between the two pieces, but heres the Audio Control LCQ-1 installed inside the center console. Landen is hands on when it comes to tuning, etc. so we made a removable plexi cover to be able to see where things are set, and tweak as needed.










This is a picture of the same console with the carpet cover over the plexi. You'll also notice the Audio Controls bass knob.










A picture of the PDX-V9, nestled in nicely behind the rear passenger seat










Factory Sony tweeter in the A pillars










Hertz tweeters popped right in with very little effort










We preferred a home run on the wire going into the doors, so we relocated one of the existing pins to a free spot, and made an access hole to run the wires straight through.










Front drivers door with a layer of dynamat on it to cut down on any resonance










Trim ring made for the front doors, no real spacing needed, just adapting the hole size more than anything. 










A shot of the speaker installed, after the rest of the ring was wrapped in Dynamat as well. We also used some Dynatape to trim around the plastic door panel cover, mainly just for the cosmetics. (no we didn't dynamat the plastic, lol)


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Back passenger door, dynamatted and ready to go. Again, dynatape on the plastic, we definitely dynamatted the door skin not the plastic, lol










Hertz speakers in and ready to go










Custom box built for underneath the rear passenger side small seat. It fits one Alpine Shallow style Type R sub in .45 cu ft. He didn't want to do anything super fancy, so his dogs stepping on it wouldn't be the end of the world, so we dressed it with some vinyl side panels with SRT on them for the truck. We also modified the factory bracket, so it would hold the new box firmly in place like it had the original Sony box










Other side of the box with the seat down to show fit


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Now on to some of the details from integrating into the factory amp signal. This is a signal feed directly from my iphone, with a lossless pink noise track playing in as a reference.










This an RTA response, with the output of the summing device fed directly into the Termlab system at 1/4 volume on the Ford headunit. Not a terribly EQ'd system (more on this later)










This is an RTA response with the volume at 3/4 level. You'll see the response is very close to the 1/4 volume level, so there doesn't look to be a tremendous amount of volume dependent EQ'ing going on.










One thing we did notice when testing signals and using a scope, is that the subwoofer end of things clipped BAD at anything past 1/3 volume on the radio. Needless to say this was NOT good at all. Anything high frequency was unclipped til just a tick or two under full volume, major difference.

We then disconnected the subwoofer output from the factory Sony amp, and the signal was clean as a whistle all the way past 3/4 volume. As it turns out, the signal on the sub outputs was flat out terrible. It didn't just clip a little, it clipped a LOT. Sorry we didn't save pictures of it, but it was a busy day. 

Anyway, just using the door speaker and tweeter output to feed our audio into the SSI, we had a full range signal with no need to use the sub channel output at all. So if you're integrating into a Ford Sony system, and you or the installer aren't putting a scope on it, make sure you/them DON'T use the sub output!

Here's the audio RTA after removing the sub output from the equation. Not to bad a curve for a factory system output if you compare it to the plain old pink noise curve we had from before. The bands of the LCQ-1 should be adequate to tweak that out as needed.


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## FineLinePimpin (Apr 28, 2007)

Awesome install. The raptor is a great truck and I considered getting one before I picked up my jeep. I still may get one in a couple years lol. I would need to have more low end though.

Sent with Tapatalk2 while watching chicks get naked.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks for the heads up on the Sony amp tricks. I did an F-150 with the Sony system a few months back, and some of the problems you are mentioning, seemed to be happening to us at the time....we thought it was the Arc XDi805 we installed at the time.

Good to know for next time. Nice job on the install, too.

Jay


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

Very nice work, but for a second there I thought the truck looked like it was parked right in front of our old building that we moved out of this past spring - seriously - same brick, same windows, same fascia...


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## Chayse (Nov 23, 2010)

Did you actually use the JL Cleansweep, or just the SSI Summing module? If just the summing module, do you think it would be possible to just use that and send the signal to an active amp i.e. Zapco DC reference? Might be interested in this truck soon.

Thanks.

Fred


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## 83corolla (Nov 5, 2009)

Super awesome truck.


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Fred,

I think you could get away with just the summing device, but you would still have some minor eq'ing from the factory radio to contend with. Landen would be the best judge of this, after having it a few weeks and tweaking on it, he could let you know whether the EQ bands on the Audiocontrol were really important or not.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Just did one of these yesterday, sooo glad I saw this when you first posted. Everything seemed to work good and it sounded great. Shame there was no EQ (it was all JL stuff the customer brought in with him, except the CLSSI that we had in stock from when we used to be a JL dealer.)


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## MikeyDubs (Oct 13, 2012)

Nice install!!! I have a 06 F150 and I'm replacing my door speakers. I want to put some dynamat around the speakers like you did.I was wondering did you pull back the plastic on the door and put the dynamat on then put the plastic over the dynamat or did you just cut out the plastic where you put the dynamat?


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

We pulled the plastic back and Dynamatted the metal and speaker ring. We then put the plastic back down and used dynatape to tape it down to the ring/hole before mounting the speaker in.


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## Spencerk (Sep 5, 2012)

Looks like a pain in the butt to get those "home-runs" into the doors.


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## Chayse (Nov 23, 2010)

Extreme Audio Mike said:


> Fred,
> 
> I think you could get away with just the summing device, but you would still have some minor eq'ing from the factory radio to contend with. Landen would be the best judge of this, after having it a few weeks and tweaking on it, he could let you know whether the EQ bands on the Audiocontrol were really important or not.


Thanks. Just ordered a 2013 Raptor. I already have two DC Reference amps with built-in EQ and Time alignment. I'll just need to pick up the CLSSI module when the truck gets here.


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## Alipor (Sep 9, 2012)

Would an Audison Bit 10 do all that the Clean Sweap and LCQ do in this system? I just picked up my raptor with the sony system and looking to do something similar, I was just going to use Audison Voce 6.5's for the front and leave the rear sony speakers for now, along with a Hertz sub.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Alipor said:


> Would an Audison Bit 10 do all that the Clean Sweap and LCQ do in this system?


Yes, and more. The LCQ is a line out converter and equalizer, while Cleansweep handles Summing and De-EQ of the factory HU, the Bit Ten does all of this. The Bit Ten will also add time-alignment, a lot more bands of EQ, and extremely versatile crossover.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Double post.


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## Jhperez81 (Jun 23, 2013)

Mike, on the SSI device did you have the switch set to "2-way" or "3-way" summing? I have a 2013 F250 with sony nav and same crappy sub.


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Initially we probably had it set to 3 way, in the end it really only needed the front signals to run everything. Just make sure whatever you hook to those front channels shows the factory amp some sort of "load"


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## Jhperez81 (Jun 23, 2013)

I'm using and SSI and cl441 cleansweep. So hopefully i'll be good tapping into only front two tweets and front two mids, not tapping into sub. 

Then just hooking into front ch input on XD700/5, set amp for 2CH, and run in tri-amplified.


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## Jhperez81 (Jun 23, 2013)

Mike, have you ever messed with the center channel speaker in the Fords with the sony 10 speaker system?


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

No, we sure haven't


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## Jhperez81 (Jun 23, 2013)

Thanks for all your help Mike. Any way I could get the stereo schematics for my 2013 F250?


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## What? (Jun 5, 2008)

We have also attempted the LCQ-1 to Ford Sony F150 install. The digital noise was crazy. In Toyota Tundras, there are loud snaps and channels go out, etc on the stock non-jbl deck as well. However, you should be able to use the JL Audio CL-LSA $13 in front of the LCQ-1 so the factory deck/amp sees a load.


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## 07chino (Aug 8, 2013)

I am new to this forum but I am about to install same set-up I have the CL-SSI and the LCQ-1 and notice you guys said not to use the sub signal from amp where do we get it from sorry if its a dumb question I'm just a little confused...


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## KBT2011 (Dec 29, 2011)

I've got a 13 with sony and am about to start a build, I've done a non sony before....to the above poster, wouldn't you just send the FR, FL, RR, RL signals to the SSI, then those same to your LCQ1, and let the LCQ1 do the work for "adding" a sub so to speak?

So anyway to OP - a safe way to go about doing these installs is going from factory amp to JL SSI, then to an LCQ1, then to your amps? Any tips for the molex connectors they look like hell.


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

Nice truck. 

Love the box.


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## 13TuxEco (Oct 26, 2013)

Sorry to the open the thread I have the sony factory 10 speaker system with all the goodies. How would installing the aftermarket alpine ktp-445? It's a simple plug and play. Then I thought I would tap into the subwoofer with a lc2i for a sub under the seats ? Looking for a simple install ? I've already replaced the factory speakers with kicker dx's 6x8


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

Sorry everyone, for some reason I wasn't getting notifications that there were now posts on this thread. I just happened to sign on and look for this link to send to someone else.

13TuxEco, I don't think you would gain much by upgrading to one of the power packs? I'm not 100% sure, because we didn't really test the output wattage of the factory amp on the regular front and rear channels, but I would think they would at least be close to the KTP445?

07Chino, The front door channels on the 12 were full range, so they were really the only thing we needed for the entire install. 

KBT2011, If you can find some info that states the 2012 and the 2013 are the same then it should be a safe bet. As another poster listed you should be able to use the CL-LSA from JL instead of the SSI if the front channels are still full range.


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## big_harv (Jul 24, 2007)

Can you elaborate on the need for the ssi? The LCQ-1 has 20k ohm impedance on the input channels which would surely show the factory amp a "load". Also, if not using the subwoofer outputs and disconnecting the factory sub, this would cause that amp channel to have no load. I am not trying to dump on your install because it looks very clean, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the logic for installing the ssi. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am attempting to install a similar setup after miserable results with the MS-8.


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## Extreme Audio Mike (Jul 30, 2012)

No problem at all. There were multiple reasons for the SSI at the time, and its very possible that you could do without it, as long as you have the time to take care of it should you run into issues down the road. 

Prior to doing the install, I did our usual "fishing" for info among our large network of 12v friends. Any time you can get some time saving tidbits before starting an install, it's obviously very valuable. One of our good friends relayed an experience he had with a Raptor Sony system, where the amp started oscillating randomly while driving down the road, that was fixed when something was added to show the amplifier a load as if a speaker was hooked up (20k ohm is not remotely close to say a 4ohm load). At the time, thinking there would be a decent amount of summing involved as well, the SSI was chosen to avoid the potential of having this issue. He had also mentioned the miserably distorted sub channel, to which he was dead on. You have to consider two main things, the source of the info is a former Installer of the Year, and the individual we did the work for lives 2 1/2 hours away. We couldn't risk everything seeming to be fine, and then it gives him issues later. 

After having gone through the signals and found some of the distortion levels we did, we could have skipped the summing aspect and used the simpler load devices that JL makes for the Cleansweep mentioned earlier.

If you have the time to risk, and you're doing the install yourself, I would encourage trying without and see for yourself. The previous install has led to blown tweeters for the other retailer, so we couldn't risk it. You could probably hear the issue and turn it right off and add the parts later yourself if needed. 

I also have experienced many of the Ford Sony's are different than this one, so if you have a different year the system may be completely different.

Just out of interest, what issues did you have with the MS-8?


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## big_harv (Jul 24, 2007)

The issues with the MS-8 I believe was in the DE-Equalizer function of the MS-8. The problem was the Sony amplifier sends a much weaker signal in the tweeter (I believe) than the mid-range. I ran the calibration many times and it always created a clipped high frequency signal. My tweeters were scratchy and popping after the calibration process due to what I believe was an extreme boosting of the high frequency. I identified the problem in the calibration process because I attempted the same thing skipping the calibration process and the symptoms would be gone. But not running the calibration caused other problems, like missing channels since I had 4 inputs but I was only getting 2 of the 4 outputs. I also discovered that the time alignment caused feedback over the phone to the recipient as well as the turn on thump problem. Needless to say, the MS-8 caused a few miserable weekends for me before I decided to return it. I do believe the MS-8 has great potential but I just don't believe it has the compatibility with the Sony Premium system. The results may have been different if I used something to sum and level match the signals to input into the MS-8, but those features were supposed to be included in the product, which to me seems like a major design flaw.

I have since installed the LCQ-1 and it was essentially plug and play since I had already ran the wiring for the MS-8, my amp, sub, and front components. It took all of about 5 minutes to get the thing working correctly. I still have to make the fine adjustments to get the sound quality where I want it to be but overall I am very happy with it so far. At ~$200 for the LCQ-1 and ~$600 for the MS-8 my expectation were very high for the MS-8.


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## dutchman79 (Aug 16, 2010)

Extreme Audio Mike, Did you find a full range signal using the front mids and tweeters, or did you need to sum all 4 doors and tweeters to acquire a full range signal?

I am about to start a project on a 2014 F150 Platinum with Sony MyFord Sync system. 

I plan on using a Audison Bit One for summing/EQing, and it seems I will need a JL CL-LSA for speaker load detection. Is anyone familiar with the Bit One and load sensing? Not sure if I need the CL-LSA or not.


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## sclemmer (Jul 29, 2008)

Would you mind sharing where you guys got power for the SSI as well as the LCQ? About to start a build of my own and curious as where the best place to get power to these devices is.


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

If you are tapping the signal under the console you will find constant and switched down there.


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## sclemmer (Jul 29, 2008)

Any idea which wire to tap for switched power?


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

There's a yellow wire in one of the harnesses that connects to the upfitter switch box. Just check with your meter first.


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## matt68 (Sep 2, 2010)

My name Is Matt and I was wondering if you could help me.I have a 2010 ford f150 platinum.I had A CLSSI installed,along with a lcq1 to a Jl 4/600 amp.My speakers are 2 sets of image dynamics in front doors and image dynamics in rear doors,for a total of 6 speakers.and a stealth box for sub.Any way I kept the stock head unit and the system was set up exactly like the Ford Raptor on this post.The problem is that my front door speakers have very little mid bass playing on them.At one time, I had them hooked up to a lc6i and they played amazing and the signal got lost so I tried the jlclssi and lcq1 to help bring back the mid bass and the speakers still have very liitle punch ,if any at all.The installer tried everything and they still sound bad,the installer said the stock amp and head unit is the problem.Could someone please give me some help on this.There is no mid bass on my front door speakers.


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