# 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....time to get started



## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

*2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*

First off, before I post one picture or say anything further, I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone on this forum that contributes with incredible knowledge and advice. Without all you guys, I wouldn't be attempting such a build.....so here goes nothin! 

Factory HU with Nav
Helix DSP Pro
Dynaudio Esotec 242 - front stage
Rear fill - no thank you
Zapco Z 150.4 
Zapco Z 150.2
JL 13TW5

Please, don't hold back. I'm here to learn and greatly appreciate any and all feedback and advice. If I'm doing something wrong, please feel free to correct my techniques. I want this build to be right. I think it would be fun to compete at the lowest amateur level with this truck if possible. So if there is anything I can do to improve, please let me know.

The truck: my new Toyota Tundra DC Longbed. I had to special order this truck, as long beds are super rare on these. Took about 3 months to come in, but it was worth the wait. I ordered the truck with factory Nav, but no JBL upgrade as I knew this build day would come and thought it would be money wasted. 

Delivery day!



First mod was a complete leather upgrade. I did this reupholstery job myself. The factory cloth seats look like cheap airplane seats.



The seats HAVE to come out for a job like this, so I did all of my work in the living room. I used Katzkins premium leather, and went with black with silver contrast double stitching. The upholstery process is pretty simple and straight forward. Remove factory cloth, reupholster and use a million hog rings. 








Final install


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Let's have a look at some gear. I know we've all seen this before, but for some weird reason, I still enjoy looking at boxes of equipment. 

Zapco Z-150.4 and Z-150.2



Dynaudio Esotec 242's. I've been dreaming of running these speakers for years. I'm sure they won't disappoint. 



The star of the show! The Helix DSP Pro. I had originally purchased a JBL MS-8 for this build, but after a perfectly timed classified add on here, I scored this little beauty...BNIB! 
Thanks again Ben (Coppertone), it worked out perfectly.





Ok. Here's the part I know little to nothing about, yet.......tuning. The MS-8 was going to be simple, but I kept reading too many threads about its quirky problems and limitations. Self tuning would have been nice, but learning something technical and new is even nicer. We are a Mac family, so first thing was to buy a cheap Windows notebook to run the Helix DSP software. Found this cheap little Nextbook on Amazon for about $100.





It's only a 10" screen, the track pad is almost unusable, Windows sucks and the keyboard feels like a Fischer Price toy. But, it did load up Helix DSP software tool V3 and seems to be working.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

In the past I used to make my speaker adapters out of MDF. But after discovering the joys of HDPE, there is no going back. 100% waterproof, dense, and did I mention waterproof?



Love using the Jasper Jig, nothing like absolute perfect circles.





I used 3/4" HDPE as a base plate and 1/2" as the adtual mounting ring. I also used an old Metra plastic mount as my template for the shape of the brackets. The base plate and mounting ring were glued and stapled together.







MW 162 fit perfectly. Nice and snug.



Having bright white speaker adapters beaming through the door card wouldn't really do, so I sprayed them with a coat of black truck bedliner



The overall goal of this SQ build is to keep things as stealth as possible. The MW 162's will live in the factory door location, and the MD 102's will be the only visible equipment. My Tundra is an SR5, but I'll be using the sail panels off of the Limited model to mount my tweeters. I started my mounting them on my drill press, and with a 2 1/8" hole bit, I drilled out the hole for the massive MD 102.



The MD 102's slid right into place and the rear of the sail panel was covered in CLD.


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## Timhof13 (Dec 24, 2013)

Nice work, the seats look great


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

A couple of weeks ago I began the deadening process. I enjoy this phase. It's fun and the end result is very rewarding. Most of the equipment here is from Don at Sounddeadener Showdown. Lots of MLV and CCF. UPS guys wanted to kill me on this day, lol. Good lord, this stuff is heavy.





I'm in Florida, so we could use any help we can get to keep the heat out in the summer. In my last Tundra, I used Second Skin Heat Wave Pro as a radiant barrier on the roof with great results. After some online searching, I found a very similar product at Summit Racing. A double foiled radiant barrier. This barrier will line the roof, floor and doors, directly on top of the CLD. 



I began with the roof. The Tundra has no factory deadening on the roof, and a rain storm was like being in a metal garden shed. My plan was full coverage CLD for the roof, followed by full coverage of radiant barrier. 

Headliner removal.



Full CLD coverage





I used 3M Super 77 to adhere the radiant barrier, along with headliner holing it back in place, it holds great.





Between the full CLD coverage and the insulated radiant barrier, the difference in roof noise is night and day. Rain noise is all but none. You can only hear rain hitting the windshield, it was a drastic improvement. 

Last weekend I started on the doors. After removing the door cards, I found one lonely piece of factory deadener



I removed the single piece of deadener and did full coverage on the outer door skins



Like the roof, I followed the deadener with full coverage of insulated radiant barrier.



The inner door skins received moderate coverage



This was my first attempt with MLV. Not wanting to waste any product, I watched a few videos, consulted Don and went into it with what I felt was a good plan. I started by laying the door card on the raw sheet of MLV and traced out the shape with a silver sharpie.

From there, I flipped the door card back over and laid the MLV inside, and cut out the spaces for the door clips.



Once that was done, I laid the MLV on the floor, applied my Velcro squares and overlayed it with CCF



MLV is hung and test fitment of the door panel is confirmed. After a few minor trimmings, the door cards snap right back into place



After double checking the fit, I trimmed out the hole for the speakers and made very small slits for the door lock cables. I'm hoping I did this part correctly. Please let me know if I could have used an easier technique.



I also added a little deadening to the back of the door cards. I do plan on sealing the holes in the doors before this is all finished. It was getting late and the mosquitos were driving me nuts, so I just buttoned everything up and told myself I'll get back to it. 

This is where I'm at as of now. Tomorrow my plan is full CLD, radiant insulated heat barrier, CCF and MLV of the floor. The interiors on these trucks come apart pretty quickly, so I'm hoping to also get my power and speaker wires pulled.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Quick question. I'm running 1/0 power to my distro block, then 4 awg to the amps, fused accordingly. The Helix manual recommends running its power and ground from the same source as the amps. According to the manual, the DSP Pro has a very small current draw of only 450 mA. Following their instructions, I'll run my power wire for the Helix from the distro block. I'll use either 14 or 16 awg for this, Helix calls for a minimum of 18 awg. Does this wire need to be fused at the distro block? And if yes, how big a fuse? My distro block is a Streetwires block with Maxi fuses. 

Thanks!


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## jimmyjames16 (Dec 12, 2006)

looks great


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## bradknob (Oct 26, 2009)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*

Gotta respect a man that will gut a brand new vehicle for sake of some good tunes.

I'd have to say ur definitely on the right track. Nice work!

Also, i had zero tuning experience and went with an ms8. Frustrated me to no end so I moved to a helix DSP and never looked back. You certainly made the right decision.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*



bradknob said:


> Gotta respect a man that will gut a brand new vehicle for sake of some good tunes.
> 
> I'd have to say ur definitely on the right track. Nice work!
> 
> Also, i had zero tuning experience and went with an ms8. Frustrated me to no end so I moved to a helix DSP and never looked back. You certainly made the right decision.



Thanks Brad. I'm going to start reading up on the tuning process. Lots to learn. 

How did you fuse your DSP when you wired it up?


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*

That's a nice install. Did you check out the Helix tuning guide? Also do you have a mic? Even the Dayton imm6 helps for a basic tune.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*



teldzc1 said:


> That's a nice install. Did you check out the Helix tuning guide? Also do you have a mic? Even the Dayton imm6 helps for a basic tune.


Thanks! No, I do not have a mic. However, I have called a local SQ shop here in Orlando that is a Helix dealer. I asked him if I did all the install work, would he help me tune it. He kindly agreed, so once everything is in I'll make an appointment to have it properly tuned. 

I bought the laptop so he can use that to tune it, and I'll have my settings right on hand if I need them. And as I learn more about the process, I can play around with it on my own. 

If you're referring to the Helix Magazine Tuning guides, yes, I've downloaded them. But for now I'm not really sure what I'm looking at when I read it. I've just started watching the tuning videos on YouTube, and things are stating to slowly make sense. Between that and the knowledge and help here, I'm certain I'll get through the this.


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*

Not sure which shop you are going, but Octave is definitely a shop you might want to check out since you are in the Orlando area.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*



SQLnovice said:


> Not sure which shop you are going, but Octave is definitely a shop you might want to check out since you are in the Orlando area.


Octave is exactly where I'm going! I've talked with Russ a few times, super nice guy and extremely helpful. He said he'd definitely help me with the tuning once all the work is finished.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Looks great. Nothing like a long bed truck. Looking forward to the install.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

I got up early today, and made some good progress. My goal for the day was to get the interior stripped, CLD, CCF and MLV installed. I was hoping to get my power wire through the fire wall and speaker wires run today as well, but the CLD had other plans for me.

It only took me around an hour to get everything gutted, all bolts and screws, bagged and labeled. I've gutted the interior on my old 2007 Tundra a few times, so disassembly was pretty fast.





I had a ton of CLD, so I just did full coverage. I know it's overkill, but I only plan on gutting this truck once so I just went for it. This took soooooo much longer than I had planned for. I must have spent a good 4-5 hours just on the floor. I was going as fast as I could, with very little if any breaks, and it still took that long. Anyhow, here is the finished CLD coverage.





Next I did a layer of the radiant barrier only under the seats. I was getting worried that the carpet was not going to fit back in properly, so I **** canned my plans to radiant barrier the entire floor. After the radiant barrier, I did full coverage of CCF, but I did not take pictures as it was getting late in the evening and I was beginning to get a little freaked out that I wouldn't finish. The truck is a long bed, so the garage door won't shut cause it sticks out about 5 feet. I had to finish this today, so I skipped a few pictures and fast forwarded righ to the final MLV pics. This was my first shot with MLV, so I'm sure I have much room for improvement. I tried to get as full of coverage as I could, without causing fit issues for reassembly. I used H-66 to seal the seams, then followed that with black Gorilla Duct tape in hopes of holding everything tight. Once dried, the H-66 actually holds quite well, so I'm sure the duct tape was a redundant step. 

Finished pics





On Tuesday, I'll finish building the amp rack for the back wall, and next weekend will be getting the power wire and speaker wires pulled. Progress is slow......but there is progress. I'm flying solo on this, so I'm chipping away little by little.


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## undone1 (Sep 30, 2008)

looks great..

what cld is that...?

only problem I have is with the gorilla tape..EVERY time I have tried to use it on mlv,it always wants to "slide" around after a couple heat cycles....not a big deal if leaving it alone..but if ever the need to go back into...sticky goo on everything..


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

undone1 said:


> looks great..
> 
> what cld is that...?
> 
> only problem I have is with the gorilla tape..EVERY time I have tried to use it on mlv,it always wants to "slide" around after a couple heat cycles....not a big deal if leaving it alone..but if ever the need to go back into...sticky goo on everything..



Thanks, I appreciate that.

I used Reckhorn CLD. 

Im hoping this will be the one and only time tearing this interior apart, so if the tape slides I'm hoping I'll never know it


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## Bminus (Sep 24, 2014)

Ive got 2/0 welding cable in my tundra running to a 250amp circuit breaker where it spits to 8gauge for my MS8 and 2/0 for the amps running to a distro that splits it into 3 4awgs. If you wanted to run and fuse it separately I'd say you wouldnt need over a 20amp fuse. Just guestamating though...
ALSO, REPLACE your head unit!!!
Go read my thread on Midbass/Midwoofer popping.
My stock headunits signal is so bad that my MS8 can not fix it completely and my midwoofers in the front doors will distort on certain songs making a popping noise, even with a higher crossover. 
I plugged my phone directly into the aux on the MS8 and it was a night and day difference. I could play them louder with a lower crossover with no popping at all. I recalibrated using my phone and it sounds better on the first try with my phone than it did on the 20th try with the stock head unit. It will be much easier to tune with a good clean flat signal coming from a aftermarket head unit than it would be to try to fix the mangled mess that is the Tundra head unit. 
Trust me. get a new head unit. It will save you alot of headaches.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Bminus said:


> Ive got 2/0 welding cable in my tundra running to a 250amp circuit breaker where it spits to 8gauge for my MS8 and 2/0 for the amps running to a distro that splits it into 3 4awgs. If you wanted to run and fuse it separately I'd say you wouldnt need over a 20amp fuse. Just guestamating though...
> ALSO, REPLACE your head unit!!!
> Go read my thread on Midbass/Midwoofer popping.
> My stock headunits signal is so bad that my MS8 can not fix it completely and my midwoofers in the front doors will distort on certain songs making a popping noise, even with a higher crossover.
> ...


8 gauge on a 250 amp breaker? That's not good.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Bminus (Sep 24, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> 8 gauge on a 250 amp breaker? That's not good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I just have it like that so I can turn everything off with one push of the button. I suppose I can add an inline fuse to the 8 gauge though...

EDIT: Guess I never really thought about it... Thanks Skizer you may have saved my truck from catching on fire.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Thanks for the tip on the HU. For now I'm planning on keeping the factory HU in place. This is the reason I switched to the Helix, the MS-8 seemed too limited. 

My power run will be 2/0 welding cable fused at the battery with a Stinger 150 amp marine grade breaker. After calling Zapco, I'm taking their advice of fusing with 150 amp breaker. The Z-150.4 requires an 80 amp and the Z-150.2 requires a 40 amp fuse. They will also be fused accordingly at the distro block, then 4 AWG to each amp. 

I still can not find info on how to fuse the DSP Pro at the distro block, running 14 AWG power and ground.


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## Bminus (Sep 24, 2014)

Connect it anywhere you want and put an inline fuse on it.. 
Also, I wasnt suggesting that the MS8 was so limited that it cant handle the stock head unit. I was suggesting that the stock head unit is so bad that its better to start from a clean slate. 
HOwever, I understand where you're coming from. I felt the exact same way about keeping the stock head unit until I'd had the truck for well over a year. 
Looks like its gonna be a great system and I'm looking forward to see how it turns out.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

This will be a fantastic build and one that will have unlimited potential. Based on my read so far, you're definitely a man that only wants to do it once hence why your stuff is well done. As far as the information needed to fuse the Pro at the distribution block, that you have me at a disadvantage with. Let me check with my one guy and see what his thoughts are. In the meantime, I'm sure there will be at least three other fellow Pro owners whom will chime in on what they've done.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Coppertone said:


> This will be a fantastic build and one that will have unlimited potential. Based on my read so far, you're definitely a man that only wants to do it once hence why your stuff is well done. As far as the information needed to fuse the Pro at the distribution block, that you have me at a disadvantage with. Let me check with my one guy and see what his thoughts are. In the meantime, I'm sure there will be at least three other fellow Pro owners whom will chime in on what they've done.



Thanks for the kind words Ben....very much appreciated. With all of the DSP Pro users here, I'm very surprised I can't find an answer to this question. I'm also surprised that Helix doesn't address this in the manual, lol. I could be wrong, but I would think that people would email ATF about this often. If I find a solid answer, I'll post it here. Please do the same if you beat me to it. 

Thanks again


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Nice build going here


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## #1BigMike (Aug 17, 2014)

Good job on everything so far sir. IMO, sound deadening is one of the more rewarding parts of my personal builds. I equate it to a solid foundation.

I am sure everything else is going to turn out great as well. Keep up the good work.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words. My wife and I were on a trip in Iceland for the last 10 days, so I wasn't able to complete any work on this build for the last two weeks. Now my in laws are staying with us for the next week so I'm not sure how much if any work I'll get finished this week. I'm dying to get this finished, so I promise there will be progress very soon.


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## greg09 (Jun 10, 2015)

Great Looking install so far! Can't wait to see the rest.

Hope you can take advantage of the cooler days we are having right now before the summer heat/humidity hits. I know I hate working on my car after May.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Yeah, it's getting hotter and hotter here. Supposed to be 90 this weekend. I'm just ready to get this install finished. In laws have us busy all week. Next weekend for sure


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## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Any Progress?


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## PUREAUDIO (Jun 16, 2008)

Great job and i love the overkill on the sound deaden. I plan to do the same soon.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

This is looking great!

You were wondering about wiring the Helix? Yeah just get a small run from your distro to the Helix with a small inline fuse. It's no biggie. I can confirm by my own stupidity they can survive a polarity swap. Not one of my finer moments. Don't repeat that test.  But yeah just wire it up like a very small amp to it's plug with a little inline fuse near it, and you should be good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Wow, lookn awesome


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## fcarpio (Apr 29, 2008)

Agree with the rest, this is going to be a really nice build.

I used to have a 2013 XSP-X Tundra (not long bed) and it was a PITA to find enough room for the amps and subs. How did you solve this? I had to get rid of my DLS Ultimate A4 and A6 in favor of much smaller amps. I ended up with a set of Helix Precision B4 and B2, I was able to fit them under the front seats. That left all the room available under the rear seats for the subs (Alpine SWR-T12 x 2). At that time I was using a Mosconi 6to8 processor (awesome very small unit) that nicely fit behind the sub enclosure.

I was going to volunteer to help you tune as I am not too far from you, BUT Octave will most likely do a better job than I could. Since your system will be professionally tuned you may want a mic for small tweaks. Here is a little mic that I sometimes use with on my android phone and a tuning app very good results.

Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for Tablets iPhone iPad and Android

If you decide to get a full size mic I suggest you stay away from the Dayton based solely on the fact that it is a very fragile unit. I dropped mine from less than waist height and the mic snapped where the thin piece meets the thick piece. Other than that is a great mic.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Aw man, do I feel like a total loser. Life has found a way to **** block my build. There has been a little progress, but no where near what my plans were to this point. 

Last week I was able to get my amp rack measured, cut and carpeted. The best location for amps in the DC version of these trucks is behind the rear seats. In my '07, I mounted my JL slash amps here and it was a perfect location. Cutting the rear seat brackets of the back of the seat allows the upper portion to fold flat. Referred to as "the back seat mod" on the Tundra forums, it's beyond me why Toyota doesn't do this from the factory. 

After a few quick measurements, I cut my new amp rack from 1/2" MDF. The square cut outs will leave me the opening for the seat bracket bolts. They were later trimmed out completely so the amp rack could be removed without taking out the seats. Much more efficient this way, and doesn't change the asthetics at all.



To mount the amp rack to the back wall, I used roofing straps from Home Depot. 



The back wall of the truck has a good sized lip at the top. To make sure the rack is secure, I'll bend the roofing straps with two 90 degree angles. A simple, and efficient way to secure the rack to the back wall of the truck. 



Since we don't have kids, I'm using the child seat belt bolt holes to secure the top of the straps. I made three of these straps



Amp rack was then covered in black speaker carpet and all three straps secured to the rack.



To dress up the area behind the seat (during show off time), I carpeted the upper area which was just exposed metal.



Looking much nicer



Amp rack finished and installed.



My sub will be recycled from my old Tundra. It's a very capable JL 13TW5. It will live under the rear drivers side seat. I'm keeping the same box, as it's very well built and should be just fine. A few pics from building it a few years back.















This Sunday I will get my 1/0 welding power wire run through the fire wall boot and mount the Stinger Marine 150 amp breaker.




That's where I'm at right now. However, I'm so glad you guys kept this thread on life support. Just posting pics and talking about it got me so fired up again. 

Thanks again for all the support, it's greatly appreciated.

Mark


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Great build so far, I was wondering why this was looking familiar lol..


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Great minds....


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## .69077 (Aug 24, 2013)

Did you finish the project? I'm in the beginning stages of planning my 2016 Tundra Double Cab.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Very nice work... I'm looking forward to an update also... my Camry has the same speaker cutouts in the front doors and likely the same fujitsu guts in the non-jbl Entune premium with nav.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Any update to this build?


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Hey guys. Thanks for raising this thread back from the dead. My business had a nice growth spurt last year, so I've been doing nothing but working. I have found little to no time to get anything accomplished and I'm disgusted with my progress on this build. 

My last update was getting the amp rack built and installed. I'm still keeping my JL 13TW5, but a new box has been built and fiberglassed. But the thing I am most excited about is my latest amp purchase. I have bought more amps for this build than I know what to do with. I just couldn't make up my mind. But after months of doing nothing but reading others build logs, day dreaming of my own, and deciding on the most efficient plan for this project...... I am happy to announce my latest purchase of a brand new Zapco Z-150.6 LX. One amp to power my entire system seemed like the logical choice. Running two amps is no problem, but having just one simplifies things even more. And this is hopefully great news for someone on here looking for a Zapco Z-150.4 and some Z-150.2's that I will have up for sale in the next week or so. 

My winter work schedule is one week on, one week off. I had all week off last week and knocked out a ton of work around the house. Have to work this week so next week will be install time. I will start watching as many YouTube videos as I can on tuning a DSP Pro, as every local shop I've called has no experience with it. I am 100% confident with my install skills, but only 40% confident with my tuning skills. A few guys here have extended their hands and offered to help, and I may just take someone up on their offer. 

So, that's the latest and greatest. Stay tuned, it's moving along now.


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## moparman79 (Jan 31, 2008)

Nice build, I'm working on 2016 tundra XSP X model.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

customaudioman said:


> Nice build, I'm working on 2016 tundra XSP X model.


Thanks man, really appreciate it. Would love to see pics of yours too. Wife and I went to New Zealand for a few weeks, spent 20 hours on the plane going over nearly every build log on here, lol I'm pretty fired up and ready to get some work done on this. Running power wire and speaker wires to the doors tomorrow. 

Still searching for an experienced tuner in Orlando. You'd be amazed at how many car audio shops have no idea how to properly tune a DSP. A friendly bloke here sent me a PM offering to help. He's a few hours away, but there may be a road trip coming up. I have no tuning experience at all, and the Helix is a little intimidating. But I am working hard to learn.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Some minor progress today, and I stress "minor". Please excuse my photos. My wife is a photographer, and I was using one of her cameras, which I'm not very good with. 

Today my goal was to get my breaker fuse mounted and power wire run through the firewall. I had bought this Stinger Marine 150 amp breaker a while back, thinking it would fit just like the other one did in my old 07 Tundra. 



The sidewalls under the hood on the 15's are a little different than the 07's, and I couldn't find a good place to mount it without it hitting the support piston that holds up the hood. So, I resorted to plan B. Last year I had bought this JL XB-MFBU ANL fuse holder. Not sure why I bought it at the time, but glad I did. 





Found a good location on the sidewall next to the fuse box. Put the level on it to make sure it was straight, and pre drilled my mounting holes.





Mounted with 4 stainless screws. Perfectly level and very secure. 



Cover back in place and ready for wire and fuse. 



Like I said, minor progress, but progress none the less. This Saturday and Sunday I will get my power wire throug the firewall and speaker wires run to the front doors. After that, it's just mount the amps to the rack, install the rack and connect the wires. Starting to get excited about this again.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Jumbo Jet, awesome build on this Tundra. I have been planning a build on my '13 Ram and I also intend to keep the factory head unit. Mainly, because there is so much integrated stuff built into it. What I have found is to use the JL Fix82, its the replacement to the JL CleanSweep. It is supposed to take you factory signal and completely flatten and correct, send it to your DSP. You may want to look into this.

Also, Russ is an incredible installer and a great person. He definitely has great tuning knowledge.


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Thanks man, I appreciate that. If I get the Fix-82, my wife would kill me. You should see the pile of unused, expensive audio gear piling up in the office. It's not even funny anymore

Who's Russ.... someone in Orlando?


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

*Re: 2015 Toyota Tundra SQ build....getting started*

Well you could try to sell off some of the unused gear and use those funds for the Fix82
And Russ is Octave in Orlando.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


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## Lee.moore (Jan 8, 2020)

any updates on this build, starting to work on mine next weekend, im still back and fore on DSP and Fix86. I been told to and don't do. so very loss at the moment. 
factory head unit
RD900/6 amp
C2 650 component speakers, front and back doors.
10" W1 (2)
sound deadening all the door inside and out. sounded the back wall as well. and put sound MLV. i will do the floors when i install everything. 
if anyone see something wrong with this build please yet me know.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

I'm not sure on all the factory Tundra HU's (especially the JBL "enhanced" systems), but my experience in my own 2010 & 2014 Tundras would indicate not using a FIX. They both output full-range signal w/no apparent bass EQ.


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## Lee.moore (Jan 8, 2020)

Then would I benefit from just a DSP to tune everything?


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Yes, absolutely.


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## Lee.moore (Jan 8, 2020)

but if you don't go active then why would you need one?


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

If you're not going active, the benefits of the time alignment & crossover benefits of a DSP wouldn't be realized. But a DSP will still give you EQ and channel level-matching benefits.


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