# 1998 VW Passat Build 3-way build log.



## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Ok, so I'm starting this now because the build will begin shortly. My friend owns a handy man business and he's going to do most of the work, I'm just going to be the one with the "vision."

Equipment is as follows:

Alpine CDA-9887
B&G Neo3 - powered by channels 3/4 off a JL 300/4
Legatia L3 - powered by channels 1/2 off a JL 300/4
Peerless SLS 6.5s - powered by a Linear Power 2.2HV
(2) DIYMA 12s - Powered by a Linear Power 2.2HV

The SLS will be installed in the doors, which already have copious amounts of RAAMmat but the door cards still need some work to lessen vibrations. These will be mounted on top of the door panel, because of the shallow depth allowed by the window system. 

L3s will be on a-pillars. I had originally decided to run the Dayton RS100s because of the excellent reviews, but getting them the proper airspace needed was going to be very difficult. The B5 chassis Passat has a very steep sloping windshield, making a-pillar mounting very difficult when space is required. I decided to go with the L3s because of their IB requirements, this way they will be vented into the a-pillar which will present them with their IB environment.

B&G Neo3s will be installed in the sail panels.

Since the 9887 does not have the processing for a 3-way front + sub setup, I've decided that I will be using the tweeter out to send signal to the 300/4 that will power both the Neo3s and L3s. The tweeter out HP x-over goes as low as 20hz so this works out perfectly, and the x-over on the 300/4 will split the signal accordingly and the Neo3s will pick up from about 4khz on up.

Also, by doing this, the T/A function will affect both the mid and the tweet, so with this in mind, I am going to try and keep the Neo3 and L3 as equidistant to my ear as possible. I believe I'll be able to get away by doing this, as in previous installs I notice that T/A on the upper frequencies doesn't affect staging and depth as much as the aiming and side bias does.

The lowend will remain as it is for now until the front stage is finish. The idea behind the DIYMA is to gain back a bit of trunk space, even with the HOs small space requirements, they still take up half of my trunk, the DIYMA .5-.75 sealed requirement will allow me to free up some room.

Pictures and updates will follow.


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

Good luck on the install! I've got an 03 passat that ive started working on this past weekend. Make sure to take pics, and maye we can play some ideas off of each other. I'm only going to have a 2way setup up front for now, but may add a dyn dome mid to make it a 3 way at some point


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Nice Pat,
keep us posted..


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

JCoffey said:


> Good luck on the install! I've got an 03 passat that ive started working on this past weekend. Make sure to take pics, and maye we can play some ideas off of each other. I'm only going to have a 2way setup up front for now, but may add a dyn dome mid to make it a 3 way at some point


Cool man a two way setup in this car is easy though mounting depth on kids is tricky because of the window regulator. What speakers are you planning on running?


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

Dyn 6.5" GTs. Im already building mounting rings for them. Im having a harder time trying to mount the tweets in the stock monsoon location and having it look clean. Even more of a PITA is installing an aftermarket HU


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

tr0y_audi0 said:


> Nice Pat,
> keep us posted..


Thanks Troy.

I will update this thread when some work gets done 



JCoffey said:


> Dyn 6.5" GTs. Im already building mounting rings for them. Im having a harder time trying to mount the tweets in the stock monsoon location and having it look clean. Even more of a PITA is installing an aftermarket HU



Yea, the tweets in the sail panel are kinda hard. Because it has a sharp curve on it, it's really hard to get a tweeter to fit in there and look good. Your best bet is to make a trim ring for the tweet to mount to then just bondo over it and make it smooth. This way you can aim the tweet accordingly as well. The stock location isn't bad but when I mounted my previous LPG 26NAs, they were kinda pointed down a bit and aimed over the shifter, thats not to say it's going to sound bad but there is room for improvement. 

There is another member on here, quality_sound, that once owned a B5.5 Passat as well, with a highly customized audio system, he might be able to help you out quite a bit as well. He'll probably post in here when he sees this.


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## jowens500 (Sep 5, 2008)

With all the PITA things VW's have, it is really easy to make the doors dead.


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Thanks Troy.
> 
> I will update this thread when some work gets done
> 
> ...


Thats the goal for the tweets. PLus the Dyn tweets are so friggin big with the flange I have no choice but to bondo it. I thought about going lazy and just mounting them in the door panel, but I think the Sail would give me more aiming options. VWs can be a PITA I have found compaired to the Dun\Tube Driver system I had in my 95 Maxima. That was a cakewalk.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Just a little update.

Today I received my pair of Peerless SLS 6.5s and Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L3.

The New drivers, size comparison to my iPhone:


















Showin off the asses:









The Build will hopefully start next week, as I have 3 days off from work. The front stage will get the most concentration, the trunk will be re-worked later.

With their soon partner in crime:


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

Looking good so far. My toys I put in mine this weekend arent that yummy!


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

Nice looks good man,
So when is dinner?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

tr0y_audi0 said:


> Nice looks good man,
> So when is dinner?


lol, for you? Never.


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## JediMentality (May 7, 2008)

I kinda want to take a bite off of one of those SLS's. Mmm, beefy


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Another update...yea I know nothing has started yet 

Just purchased a PPI DCX-730, this will allow me to independently adjust the T/A and EQ between the tweet and the mid. This should making installing the drivers easier, since now I don't have to worry about them being so close to each other, now I can make sure the install does not look out of place.

The build should commence, either Monday or Tuesday, depends on if one of my coworkers calls in on Monday, thus me taking her place, and receiving Tuesday off instead. 

Oh, and there will be pics...don't you guys worry.


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## W8 a minute (Aug 16, 2007)

It's Monday. Where's the pics? LOL


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

Ditto. Im waiting to see what he's up to so I can steal some of his ideas hahaha


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

bass_lover1 said:


> Ok, so I'm starting this now because the build will begin shortly. My friend owns a handy man business and he's going to do most of the work, I'm just going to be the one with the "vision."
> 
> Equipment is as follows:
> 
> ...


How deep are those SLSs? I know they're a little deep but you should be able to get them in without mounting them on the door panel?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

damned double posts


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Paul, they are about 4mm deeper than the Nomexs, so I'll need another 1/4 of MDF to get them to clear the window, which isn't a problem.

Anyways, a bit of an update on what was done today. Both the driver and passenger side a-pillar pods for the L3s are underway. Right now their first layer of fiberglass resin is drying, we'll be doing a second coat latter on today and I'm going to add some fiberglass cloth the strengthen it up. The tweeter rings are cut, but we're going to finish those on Wednesday probably. The SLS will be put in later on in the week.

Here are some pics:

Driver side being mocked up









Passenger side









Driver side finished

















First layer of resin currently drying










That's all for now, hopefully these will be finished today minus being covered in black suede so I can at least give the L3s a listen.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

another minor update for today. We got one layer of mat laid down and I put a layer of spectrum on the a pillar to reduce some vibrations, a second and possibly third will go on when it dries. Tweeter pods will start on Wednesday as well as finish up work on the pods for the L3. Oh and I left my camera at home so no pics of the work done.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

NIce.... those L3's are sweet. Play around plenty with imaging and tuning and they will reward you with sweet-caraudio-ness!


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

its going tobe hard as hell to cover that piller,
you may want to do seude flock,
I think Steve Hock could do it but damn


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

tr0y_audi0 said:


> its going tobe hard as hell to cover that piller,
> you may want to do seude flock,
> I think Steve Hock could do it but damn


They're going to be covered in a faux suede, if it's as easy as covering them with the material we used for the base mold, it shouldn't be that hard. Took us about 10 mins to wrap them both, but we'll see what happens. 

That's the last thing on my mind right now, mainly I want get everything finished so I can listen to everything


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

I wish I didn't get rid of my 880 and just dove in a tried a 3-way active set-up, or at least 2-way active. Oh well, maybe one day again. 

Nice stuff you have there friend. Looks like you know what you are doing as well with the fiberglassing. Good luck with it all and look forward to more pics!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Another update:

A-pillars are near done, just need to trim them down, ran into some fitment issues when trying to put them back it so we're going to have to cut off a bit to get it to work. I used a spray rubber under coating on the inside to start in the deadening process, RAAMmat will be used to finish that off.

Tweeter pods are done, just need to be wrapped to finish them off, but other wise they are done.

The SLS has not even been touched yet, that'll have to wait till next week probably but that wasn't my main concern heading into this, the a-pillars and tweeter pods were which is why they were done first.

Here's some pics to hold you guys over. Once again I forgot my camera so I had to rely on my iPhone, so the pics aren't that great and there aren't that many .


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## $Audison$ (Jun 8, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> With their soon partner in crime:


How much that sub-woofer cost?
And where you bought it?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

It weighs about 37lbs. I got it off eBay for 125 shipped, though you'll have to ask if he'll ship overseas...search for DIYMA on eBay and you'll find the auction


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Another update:

Finished off the a-pillar pods today and installed my pair of Legatia L3s 

Well, they aren't finished per se, but they're usable they just need to be covered in fabric. Tweeter pods are also finished, but I need to run wire for those and they also need to be covered in fabric. 

SLS will be installed next week sometime, but for the time being the Nomex playing from 50-200hz they sound pretty good.

And lastly the trunk will be redone at a later point because I'm really in no rush for that.

Anyway, here's some pics of the pillars and tweeter pods done:



















The driver side looks a little off in the pic but it's really not, however the mid sticks out about 2.5 inches closer to the driver than the tweeter does. For my first time doing fiberglass let alone doing an install like this, I can say that I'm really pleased with the way everything turned out.


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## garvinzoom (Mar 23, 2008)

Okay, dumb question. Why are the holes in the door pods square? Good looking work BTW.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Um, faux suede doesn't stretch at all. If you want suede that stretches, then real Alcantara is what you will be needing to get at about $100 a yard.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

garvinzoom said:


> Okay, dumb question. Why are the holes in the door pods square? Good looking work BTW.


B&G Neo3s aren't regular shaped tweeters.



thehatedguy said:


> Um, faux suede doesn't stretch at all. If you want suede that stretches, then real Alcantara is what you will be needing to get at about $100 a yard.



Well then, might have to pay someone to put the fabric on, with the sewing and stuffs.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

What will happen is it will bunch up where the baffle of the pod is at. It will either need reliefs on the sides or down the middle to take care of the excess.

The panel Alcantara will stretch around and be able to be pulled without have seams. And it is very UV resistant. But it is expensive. Gulf Fabrics stocks it.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Yea, it's a great fabric, and I've thought about putting it in my car, but at that price I doubt i'd use it for anything.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Update:

Installed the SLS 6.5s today...ended up not needing spacers (yay!). If it wasn't for the bumped backplate on the SLS it would actually be shallower than the Nomex, and with the Nomex the edge of the backplate is what got in the way of my window regulators, no clearance issues!

Pics:

Nomex vs. SLS


















Driver side door:


















No pics of the passenger side, cause it looks the same


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## JCoffey (Feb 8, 2008)

Looking great! Passats are definitely not the easiest car to do an install with Im learning, but not too hard. I did the rough install on my system in about 8 hours, but now the fun part is doing the finish work, fiberglassing the tweet pods, and building panels, getting rid of the engine whine, and the dimming headlights and I'll be done. 

Cant wait to see how yours turns out!


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Very nice stuff you are running there. I never knew about squared tweeters before, but look forward to those installed. 

Good job on everything. I also like the car. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on a Passat one day. 

Good luck with the rest of the install.


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Double post FTL!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

JCoffey said:


> Looking great! Passats are definitely not the easiest car to do an install with Im learning, but not too hard. I did the rough install on my system in about 8 hours, but now the fun part is doing the finish work, fiberglassing the tweet pods, and building panels, getting rid of the engine whine, and the dimming headlights and I'll be done.
> 
> Cant wait to see how yours turns out!


They aren't hard, just a bit quirky. Tweeters will be installed either Wednesday or Friday, depends on how lazy I'm feeling 



Irishfocus06 said:


> Very nice stuff you are running there. I never knew about squared tweeters before, but look forward to those installed.
> 
> Good job on everything. I also like the car. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on a Passat one day.
> 
> Good luck with the rest of the install.


Thanks, I'm about 95% sure that this stuff wont be going anywhere for a while but we'll see how that goes. As for my tweeters, the Neo3s are my favorite so far. They don't play extremely low, 3khz is as low as I personally like them. However, their upper end detail is amazing, and they aren't fatiguing at all which is what I didn't like about tweeters I've used in the past.


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

dammm that's huge midbass


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## nitroboomracer (Oct 5, 2008)

the speakers is good, i like peerless woofer

what's the tweeter, i don't know B&G


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

nitroboomracer said:


> the speakers is good, i like peerless woofer
> 
> what's the tweeter, i don't know B&G


Thanks, I've had good experiences with Peerless before so I decided to go with them again.

The B&G Neo3s are planar type tweeters. AFAIK you can only purchase them from partsexpress.


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## nitroboomracer (Oct 5, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Thanks, I've had good experiences with Peerless before so I decided to go with them again.
> 
> The B&G Neo3s are planar type tweeters. AFAIK you can only purchase them from partsexpress.


ok, in france, i don't see this tweeter


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Another little update.

Finally got off my lazy ass and installed the Neo3s, so finally everything is in and ready to go, just need to cover these things so they no longer look out of place.

Here's where I settled my crossovers at, but I'm going to do a bit more testing because I only finished this up at about 8 tonight, so I have plenty of time to mess around.

Neo3s are from about 5khz on up
L3s are from 160hz to about 5khz
SLS are from 40hz up to 200hz
Daytons are from 50hz on down

All at 24db/oct. 

My impressions? Holy **** 
Everything for the most part is centered at eye level and out to the windshield. The only issue I've run into is that distorted guitars will be heard on the left or right instead of center. This isn't to say that they are overly biased to one side, because they aren't, they just don't image as easily as vocals/drums do. 

Regardless of that, I'm so happy about this it's not even funny, I spent about an hour today sitting in my car trying to play every song I could think of that I've heard at least 1000 times, just because it's almost like hearing it for the first time.


Oh, and pics will be up tomorrow the sun was down by the time I finished everything.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Why the overlap between the SLSs and the L3s?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Not really sure, but I changed the L3s to 200hz on up. After some close listening I realized that I couldn't tell a difference between 160 hz 200hz.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Here are the pics of everything finally. Now all that's left is to tidy everything up so it looks professional and not lazy. That'll wait till the end of the semester though, so that way I have more time to worry about it than trying to do that and school work at the same time.




























I'm probably going to end up redoing the driver side a-pillar, I'm not completely happy with the way that one turned out.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Neat & good progress, how do the L's sound to you? Is the sub in?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

syd-monster said:


> Neat & good progress, how do the L's sound to you? Is the sub in?


They sound amazing just need to get my DCX installed so I can do some more EQ work. Sub isn't in yet still deciding on how I want my trunk to look before I dive into that.


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## SubNit (Nov 5, 2008)

I'm helping a friend out with an install in the same model car as yours. Can't say the equipment's as nice though. 

Great job so far


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks.

This was definitely a learning experience. I've never worked with fiberglass before, nor have I done an install of this magnitude. There are things that if I were to do it again, would do differently, but overall I'm very happy.

Next step is to just cover them in fabric so they are more eye appealing. I think I've decided to skip the faux suede and go with a mesh grille cloth for ease of use.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Double post FTL.


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## vwguy383 (Dec 4, 2008)

Hello fellow passat owner. Nice build up. I just have a question about running the wires to the doors. Like must VW they have a plug in the door jam. I plan on running my own speaker wires when I do my doors but wondered what I could to get around that part. I really don't want to cut and splice the factory harness and use it because they are very prone to failure. (One of mine is bad already) What have you done? and any other passat or VW owner.

Thanks
Justind


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Drill out an empty spot. Piece of cake. 

Oh, and the molex you have that's bad (right rear, correct?) is almost always a corrosion issue. Sometimes unplugging and plugging it back in will do the trick but a good cleaning and a small amount of dielectric grease will keep it from coming back.


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## vwguy383 (Dec 4, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Drill out an empty spot. Piece of cake.
> 
> Oh, and the molex you have that's bad (right rear, correct?) is almost always a corrosion issue. Sometimes unplugging and plugging it back in will do the trick but a good cleaning and a small amount of dielectric grease will keep it from coming back.


It was the left rear, but the short was right in the plug. At first I thought I blew the speaker so i started to take the door apart and when I got to part of taking off the rubber protector it started to work. So I cut the wire about an from the plug and put some new wire in and it still happened. It ended up breaking like right next to the crimp on the plug. So the plug is crap. Also when i took factory wire insulation you wouldn't believe the corrosion on the wire. Big thumbs down for VW for using such crappy wire.

Justind


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Interesting, I've never heard of there being that much corrosion on the wire itself. Looks like you're going to have to do a full rewire of that door.


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## vwguy383 (Dec 4, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Interesting, I've never heard of there being that much corrosion on the wire itself. Looks like you're going to have to do a full rewire of that door.


I know I was kind of surprised myself too. I kept on peeling back the insulation on th wire to get some clean copper wire and couldn't get any. I'm planning on doing a full rewire to all the doors just because of the wire that I did find. but I really don't want to hack up the plug that is in the door jam. Sorry for jacking your thread. I have a passat wagon and am waiting to see what your going to do with the trunk. I know you don't have a wagon.

Thanks
Justind


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

vwguy383 said:


> Hello fellow passat owner. Nice build up. I just have a question about running the wires to the doors. Like must VW they have a plug in the door jam. I plan on running my own speaker wires when I do my doors but wondered what I could to get around that part. I really don't want to cut and splice the factory harness and use it because they are very prone to failure. (One of mine is bad already) What have you done? and any other passat or VW owner.
> 
> Thanks
> Justind


You must have a newer vdub, the front doors on mine don't have a molex connection in the jamb. The answer Paul gave you should be more than adequate, however.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Little bit of an update. I posted in the general section that I was going to be doing dash pods to house my new Peerless Exclusive 4s.

I did some work today, got started on the molds, passenger side is out and the driver side is still drying, guess I didn't use enough hardener on that side.

Passenger side tape laid out:










Driver side tape laid out:










Trying to get an angle shot of both:










Driver side after some glass:










Passenger side after some glass:










Passenger side out:



















Spraying Pam on the tape before laying glass makes it pretty simple to remove it afterwards


I ran out of resin and am nearing the end of my FG mat, so a run to Lowe's will be necessary. Hopefully I can get these fully strengthened up tonight and get a rough idea of their volume so my next day off I can tackle the baffles and then onward to installation. 

I'll keep this updated.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Any particular reason why the the L3's gone?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Just wanted to try something different and I've had good experiences with Peerless drivers in the past, so figured I'd go with them again.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Update: 

(Yes I'm a slow worker, plus I have a hard time finding the motivation to turn off Fable 2 for a while)

Well, ended up not wanting to go through the trouble of installing the 4" Exclusives, they're just too big for my dash. Stupid VW for making the windshield super steep, but I guess thats a trade off for having a lower coefficient of drag than a C5 Corvette (seriously).

Anywho, scrapped that idea, and ordered a set of CDT ES-03 mids from woofersetc for 70 shipped, with similar size to the HAT L3 dash pods will be much easier, since I've already done it once for the L3s, I'll chalk that up as practice.

Also, today I installed a set of the Vifa XT18 7" midbass/range drivers (no pics, I know I suck). I need to rebuild the MDF rings for those, they use the same sized basket as the 6.5" SLS and Nomex drivers from Peerless, but not having the truncated frame means mounting holes are in different spots, I got 4 out of 6 in there, I can live with that for a few weeks. 

That's my update for now, whenever the CDTs get here, I'll start over on the dash pod build, and I'm still waiting on replacement A-pillar covers, because I hacked up my other ones pretty bad.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Ok, minor update.

I snagged a Linear Power 5002 off a member here, and am planning to use that as my sub amp instead of using one of my 2.2HVs. With that said, as long as the 5002 is in good shape and is not in need of repair, I will be listing a 2.2HV for sale, before the end of next week.

I'm posting this here to give some of you guys a heads up, you know, enough time to scrounge up some money for it . Plus, feelers or tentative sales are not allowed so I put it here.


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## KARPE (Nov 9, 2008)

I have that same sticker on my windshield


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

I used to, but online classes are amazing.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

My newest gems 










Now I can finally ditch my JL 300/4 and replace it with these beautiful LPs, a 652I and 992IQ. Both will eventually be modded of course 
Not sure what I'm going to do with the Plum Crazy 652, but I'll probably get it modded then sell it.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Hmmm, what could these be? They look kinda flat...








































Gonna try something a bit different. Being that they're so flat and I've heard with some work they can play down to 500 hz, going to see how they sound mounted up high. I know not something usually done with these, but kicks wont work in my car so I'm forced to do a-pillars. Regardless, if they don't work I can sell them no prob, and I still have a pair of CDT ES-03s that will find their home in the pillars.


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## diegoejea (May 11, 2009)

Very interesting! Please, tell as much as you want! Is a very interesting type of speakers. Are you going to try to leave away the NEO3 and keep only the NEO8 for mids and highs? (from mids to 20000)?

Some people says that it can be done perfectly, cause this mid is goog for highs (except because you have to nocth a slight resonance at 12000 Hz). Other people says NEO3 sounds more airer in that high frequencies.


Thanks for sharing your steps!

By the way, regards from Spain! I am new, very nice to participate!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

diegoejea said:


> Very interesting! Please, tell as much as you want! Is a very interesting type of speakers. Are you going to try to leave away the NEO3 and keep only the NEO8 for mids and highs? (from mids to 20000)?
> 
> Some people says that it can be done perfectly, cause this mid is goog for highs (except because you have to nocth a slight resonance at 12000 Hz). Other people says NEO3 sounds more airer in that high frequencies.
> 
> ...


I did a bit of reading on the Neo8, and found that it can play relatively well off axis, as long as I stay below about 4-5Khz, this also means I don't have to deal with that nasty peak the Neo8 experiences around 12Khz. I'll be keeping the Neo3 (might swap it to the Neo3-PDR), and it will cover from about 4khz on upwards.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

bass_lover1 said:


> but kicks wont work in my car


Yes they will.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> Yes they will.


Dude, seriously, over like the last year I've been going off your notion that kicks wont work! You've even told me that a few times!!!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Huh? I said I didn't like giving up my dead pedal so I wouldn't do kicks again but they work fine as long they're on axis. Off axis 
And you have to deal with the center console.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> Huh? I said I didn't like giving up my dead pedal so I wouldn't do kicks again but they work fine as long they're on axis. Off axis
> And you have to deal with the center console.


I swear I remember you saying kicks weren't a good idea because of how tucked under the dash they are. Anywho, I'm not giving up my dead pedal either so I'm still gonna do a-pillars


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Plus the pillars sounds better. Just saying it was doable, not necessarily the best route. 

Carry on.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks, Paul! 

Still a toss up between the Neo8s and the ES-03s.  I mocked up the CDTs once prior, and they sounded very nice, now I just need some free time to mock these up and see how they respond.


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## aV8ter (Sep 4, 2009)

I hate to bump this thread as it has been over 3 years since it was last updated, but are you still working on it? Tried anything new?

I just picked up a 98 Elegant Green 1.8t with 132k in need of a clutch that I plan to clean up and commute with so I am trying to put a plan together for the stereo system. I've got a Jl 500/5 and 300/2 at my disposal and have a pair Dayton IB385-8S that I am determined to integrate as none of my other cars have been suited for IB installs.


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