# PPI fanatics!! Need to know if PPI A600.2 will nicely power a JL12W7..



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

As the title states, I was wondering if a bridged PPI A600.2 would nicely power a JL audio 12W7. I know that the amp is designed to run a 4 ohm load bridged, JL's are 3 ohm, was wondering if it would work. 


I want to know if the combination would yield A) Fair
B) Good
C)Excellent results in terms of output, SQ, reliability. 

I know the amps are underrated, what type of bridged output can I expect to see at 13.4/8 volts @ 3 ohms? (if the combo will work together)

Would it cause distortion? Am I taking a chance of torching both amp and sub? 

I need feedback from the PPI fanatics in here, OR, the "Electrotech Gurus" A.K.A. the "Einsteins of Electronics.." Guys that build/service/know DC electronics/amplifiers and their limitations.. 

I own 5) PPI A600.2's, I just picked up 3 JL Audio 12W7's. I also own 2) Mmats D3000.05's. Any way you look at it, the subs make for a mismatch for my available power. But I'm hell bent on using the W7's, may even pick up a 4th one cheap.. 

I know JL's recommendations on RMS power is between 500 and 1000 RMS. But I also know that in sealed enclosures, these subs don't come alive until close to 1000 watts or above (headroom) 

The goal is SQL, I plan on running all 3 subs, a 4th one if I can get it, 1 PPI amp per sub, (if the PPI's will work admirably..)

What do you fellas say? If the JL/PPI combo will work, I will pick up my 4th JL sub tonight. ( I keep finding them cheap on Craigslist)


----------



## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

......


----------



## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

That was the combination of choice back in the day. It'll work very nicely.


----------



## vecc205 (Nov 18, 2007)

I run an a600.2 on my w6v2 and I can get some good output of it if I want to. Its actually running at 8ohms nominal so that should work nicely with a w7 in your application.


----------



## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Almost as nice as that chicks ass in quality_sound's avatar.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

So my 3 A600.2's, each will power a JL 12W7 quite nicely? I shouldn't look for a single 1 ohm 3000 watt monster? Thats good news.

Now it's onto a serious alternator.. I will be running 6, count them 6, PPI amps. 3) A600.2's for subs, 1) A600.2 for midbass, 1) possibly 2) A404.2's for mids and highs (may bridge each to 2 channels, use 1) for mids, 1) for tweets, this for headroom.. 

Overkill for an SQL system?

Man, for a separate knockaround system, I picked up an Alpine CDA-9853, packed with features but a nightmare to figure out..

I'm trying to use the rear channel outs for midbass with help of an external crossover to bandpass it from 80HZ to 400HZ, Then wanted to use the front outs from 200HZ and up to power a pair of 2 way comps with passive XO. This to a 5 channel amp I have. I had it setup this way with a Pioneer deck, it was easy to do, sounded good but limited EQ and no time correction.. Prefer the SQ of the Alpine and looking forward to the advanced EQ and time correction feature, but I can't get it figured out. Driving me nuts!! Even the owners manual isn't too specific on how to do this.. What a mess..


----------



## Hispls (Mar 12, 2008)

You will want a big alternator and probably one or more additional batteries. Don't underestimate the current those amps will want to hog up at peaks.

I don't know how stable those amps are below 4 ohms, so I'd be careful...then again many "4 ohm" subs are actually much closer to 3 ohm DCR. They are monsters though.

What part of Florida are you in? I'd like to come check it out if you get things hooked up in the next month.


----------



## starboy869 (Dec 16, 2006)

Sounds like you need some proarts instead of regular art series. 2 ohms bridged mono or 1 ohm stereo

*oops had to correct some info


----------



## Boo (Sep 21, 2008)

2nd that.

the Art series wont come down to 2ohms.

got a A300. A600. AX400. 4200AM. all dont really reach down to 2ohms.

planned to run JL dual 2 off the A600.


----------



## Riveted1 (Oct 23, 2008)

3rd that. Supposedly they can handle 2 ohm loads, but MY A600 absolutely HATES them. And do not underestimate the amount of juice these amps require- they are quite the hungry little monsters when the volume knob is raised.


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

What is the DCR on your sub? I ask because my younger cousin's 13w7 DCRs at about 2.6 Ohms with the coils in series and he thinks his amp, a MTX 81000d is going bad.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

I have to double check on DCR. I thought I remember seeing 2.4/2.6 but it was a while ago..

So the Arts wont like the lower impedance bridged? 

I was told by a fellow Diyma member that he ran his 10W7 off an A600.2 with great success. Told me to keep an eye on the low impedance light/protect feature..

I may just run the 3 JL's off my 1 Mmats amp and call it a day.. The amp @ 1 ohm should deliver about 600 per driver, sufficient for now. The Mmats amps will work fine off the stock alternator, they are very efficient amps. 

I ran the single Mmats sub amp and the 2) 4 channels off my stock alternator for a while, adding a battery helped somehow (although I read it isn't supposed to, it did, it seriously did)

I may just list all PPI amps and my 2 Mmats .05 ohm sub amps for sale and pickup a single 1 ohm stable Mmats amp to match subs.. Mmats makes a D3500.1 (2700 watts rms into 1 ohm)

To the fella that asked what part of Fla I'm from, I'm in Boca Raton. When you coming down? Mi casa su casa..

BTW, how do these subs sound in the proper vented enclosure, tuned low with correct subsonic etc..? I'm looking for seriously impacting, cellar deep extension, but fast, tight and musical..

Will the 3) do 32HZ to 80HZ nice and flat in a vented box with sufficient EQ? Will I get solid extension into the 20's?

I haven't plugged them into Winisd yet..

Keep it coming fellas..


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

Double post...


----------



## Boo (Sep 21, 2008)

perhaps its a D2 sub? that would be no prob at all.


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

Boo said:


> perhaps its a D2 sub? that would be no prob at all.


I thought all the W7s were dual 1.5 that will show DC resistance of about 1.3 to 1.4 ohms per coil


----------



## Hispls (Mar 12, 2008)

lust4sound said:


> I have to double check on DCR. I thought I remember seeing 2.4/2.6 but it was a while ago..
> *Definitely not 4 then....you risk either harming the amp or living in protect mode*
> So the Arts wont like the lower impedance bridged?
> *One way to find out...if they have protection circuit you could try it.*
> ...


I suspect with the excursion of those subs, they should be capable enough for you. At the end of the day, vehicle accoustics (including placement and aiming of your box) will probably affect things more than any of this other crap anyway.


----------



## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

Both 10 and 12w7 subs are single 3 ohm. 13w7's are dual 3's.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

Hispls said:


> I suspect with the excursion of those subs, they should be capable enough for you. At the end of the day, vehicle accoustics (including placement and aiming of your box) will probably affect things more than any of this other crap anyway.


Thanks for all the info!!

I may have access to a good woodworking shop, would need to inquire..

*I may just run the 3 JL's off my 1 Mmats amp and call it a day.. The amp @ 1 ohm should deliver about 600 per driver, sufficient for now. The Mmats amps will work fine off the stock alternator, they are very efficient amps.
Efficiency not only means sucking your charging system hard, it also means heat. Keeping those amps from going therrmal may also become a challenge....particularly trying to run them below*

The Mmats amps that I own are the .05 ohm versions.. 

I ran a pair of dual 2 ohm Kicker Solos off the single Mmats amp, stock alt and additional battery. Both subs combined @ .05 ohm, the amp barely got warm, could have easily destroyed the pair of Solobaric L7's..

I had the gain set right, 9CF box tuned to 32HZ, subsonic @ 25HZ as per Kickers rec's. I couldn't go more than half way up with the volume knob with bass set at flat (whole EQ flat) The subs where close to bottoming out..

The output was ludicrous..

I would imagine running the same amp @ 1 ohm would make it run cooler? Or would it be the opposite? Amp designed to run @ .05 ohm being run @ 1 ohm would work harder or produce more heat in this case?


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

06BLMUSTANGGT said:


> I thought all the W7s were dual 1.5 that will show DC resistance of about 1.3 to 1.4 ohms per coil


Nope, only the 13W7 sports a DVC @ 1.5 ohm per VC..


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

lust4sound said:


> Nope, only the 13W7 sports a DVC @ 1.5 ohm per VC..


That is what I get for thinking. Then again, my younger cousin's 13w7 is the only w7 that I have ever worked with.


----------



## PPI-ART (Mar 1, 2009)

I have been running 2 ppi A600.2 amps to my 2 12w7 for years at 3 ohm mono with no problem at all. One to each W7.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

PPI-ART said:


> I have been running 2 ppi A600.2 amps to my 2 12w7 for years at 3 ohm mono with no problem at all. One to each W7.


Nice, wish I had known this before hand.. 

I still have the A600.2's, but I picked up a true 3700 watt Fosgate beast..

I hate Fosgate, but I found the amp BNIB for pennies on the dollar.. It does the job..

Now I am thinking of using my Art series for front stage. Those to replace the Mmats amps powering the 3 way active..

As far as SQL is concerned, my system always puts a smile on my face when I crank the volume..

My front stage is usually all I need for normal music. My subs are barely playing in the background during everyday listening, I have to turn the sub level to 0.. 

When I want to get down and dirty, I unleash the subs, all hell breaks loose..

I have had to glue my mirror back up twice already.. This in a sedan..

How do those A600.2's sound when you lean on them hard? What are your musical preferences and what kind of enclosure, what vehicle? What kinf of output is that setup capable of? Do you have a problem with amps getting hot and shutting down?


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

Just looked at your pics.. I hate you.. I have enough PPI amps to do that, but I just finsished my system with other amps.... Now I'm back on the PPI Kick.. 

Why did you do this to me?

How many CF vented, what's your tuning? Subsonic?

What are all those PPI amps powering?


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

Just looked at your pics.. I hate you.. I have enough PPI amps to do that, but I just finsished my system with other amps.... Now I'm back on the PPI Kick.. 

Why did you do this to me?

How many CF vented, what's your tuning? Subsonic?

What are all those PPI amps powering?

The Fosgate amp that I have easily overpowers the JL's, it's overkill for my pair. My initial intention was to run the 3 JL's that I have. I quickly realized that I don't have the room in my trunk.. I had to custom fabricate a box using the entire spare tire well and the entire trunk floor framed in with 2 x 4's to get just 2 subs to fit with adequate airspace while affording the room to mount my gargantuan amps as well as all the other pieces..

The output is ludicrous, this from a sealed enclosure.. 

Question, does 4.25 CF (internal,before sub displacement) afford enough room to vent my enclosure for optimal SQL?


----------



## PPI-ART (Mar 1, 2009)

the pics in the above post from me is my GMC sierra crew cab. I removed the rear 40 seat on the pass side as you can see in the pics. The A600 to each sub is more than enough as I am currently putting out about 149.5 db as of my last hookup to a linear x mic. The box is 3.5 total cubic feet 1.75 per sub tuned to about 34hz. 

As for all the amps my my AX606.2 is powering my front stage of JBL gti 08 6's and 5 1/4 and tweets. the A300.2 is powering my rearfill of gti 08 5 1/4 two way with some tweets. and of course the 2 A600.2's for the JL w7's. You cant go wrong with the true class A/B sound of the ART Series Amps. 

this is my new setup in my 08 malibu LTZ. JL 12w7 and alpine processesor I am going to run 2 A1200.2 for the subs if I can figure out the electrical system without melting my car to the ground from the massive current draw of the 2 A1200.2 slamming

I have never had the amps shut down, not once I can jam Bass Mekanik for hours and she just smiles and keeps on truckin. In my expirence with the w7 ported is the only way to go. even ported you can achieve a good SQ if you have a good processor to adjust them. but when you want to unleash a w7 there is no comparison to a ported vs a sealed setup. 

IMHO if you underpower a 12w7 and are not putting at least 750 to each of the w7's you most certainly would want to port them. if you are not putting atleast that amount in sealed enclosure you have never truely heard what the sub can do.

750-1000 sealed is optimal
500-750 ported is just perfect for me.

but I am going to go 1200 to a ported X2. What the hell am i thinking my bu is going to implode. LOL


----------



## PPI-ART (Mar 1, 2009)

sorry man did not mean to upset you. but I say this. Once you go ART there ain,t no going back.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

PPI-ART said:


> the pics in the above post from me is my GMC sierra crew cab. I removed the rear 40 seat on the pass side as you can see in the pics. The A600 to each sub is more than enough as I am currently putting out about 149.5 db as of my last hookup to a linear x mic. The box is 3.5 total cubic feet 1.75 per sub tuned to about 34hz.
> 
> As for all the amps my my AX606.2 is powering my front stage of JBL gti 08 6's and 5 1/4 and tweets. the A300.2 is powering my rearfill of gti 08 5 1/4 two way with some tweets. and of course the 2 A600.2's for the JL w7's. You cant go wrong with the true class A/B sound of the ART Series Amps.
> 
> ...


Awesome. Those JBL comps, are they the ones that came out a few years back with a retail somewhere in the 3K range?? I hear they are phenominal..

I first had a pair of JL 12W7's, was actually looking for a pair of A1200.2's to do the 2 JL's sealed. I wasn't sure if the impedance would be an issue. I have the A600.2's I had posted this a while back to see if it was doable. I figured I would start with the A600's then add the A1200's once I got a hold of them.. I then found a 3rd 12W7.. Things changed..

Since I now have 3 12W7's, I was looking for brute power. I found a Rockford Fosgate T30001BD. That amp is a beast. It does a legit 3700+ watts RMS @ 1 ohm. I figured I'd be able to squeak by @ .75 ohm. Then I read several times that the Fosgate will hate .75 ohm, not do do it.. 1 ohm was a stretch for it.. I also quickly realized that I didn't have room in my trunk for the 3 12W7's AND that gargantuan amp. (thing is about 3 feet long, no lie, that and the 2 Mmats 4 channels leave barely enough room for the 2 JL's) 

Just as well. I installed everything, 2- 12W7's sealed in a humungous box, was bumping away just fine.. The output is sick. Got a hold of the BASS MEKANIK CD then proceeded to blow the surround clean off one of my beloved JL's (OUCH!!) Truth is, I bought all 3 used, noticed a small amount of dry rot on one of the surrounds after I purchased it. Upon close examination I found that it didn't go all the way through the surround, so I installed it.. All was well till I got hold of that CD.. Good thing I have a spare..

I was thinking of porting the enclosure for more output.. As it stands, I don't get a strong usable response above 60HZ, so the limitations associated with porting are a moot point for me... My midbass which consists of Alpine Type X's paired up (4-6.5's for midbass alone) gives me serious output from 50HZ and up. I have a very potent midbass section. I cut the midbass off @ 160HZ 24DB slope so that the delays wouldn't skew vocal imaging.. 

My Type X 5.25's and Mmats tweets take over from there (Mmats tweets play very low while retaining a natural sound with great detail and no harshness) 

I am using the XO and delay from my Alpine HU. It doesn't allow tailoring for a 3 way front stage, but it does a 2 way. So I divided the highs with a PPI FRX456 XO that I had laying around. I am able to delay and play with XO slopes between midbass and HP output. So I have the 5.25's setup from 160HZ 24DB slope to about 2KHZ. It's hard to tell, but I think I have the 5.25' cutoff at the top around 2KHZ, the tweets dialed in @ 2KHZ and up (PPI FRX456 makes it hard to tell exactly what frequency your XO is set to) 

My front stage is incredible.. Images well, no listener fatigue even with hours of heavy metal, vocals are centered, detail is there, the soundstage is large and airy, smooth, midbass packs a wallop, I actually have to dial it back to get mids and highs balanced. 

I am still in the process of tuning, driver arrangement. Presently, I have the 5.2's in the stock door location, tweets in the side view mirror pods.. Neither the tweets or the 5.25's are aimed for optimal imaging yet it still images well. I will start building an enclosure for those, can't wait to hear what they will do once they are aimed straight at my ears.. I think once I have those positioned, I could match the full output of my midbass with precise balance and no listener fatigue..

I figured a vented box, tuned in the 30's somewhere with a subsonic @ 24 cutoff @ the same 63HZ that it is now would get me some serious DB's with the monstrous power I have available.. 

Again, my front stage plays solidly from 50HZ and up, so even with a vented box, I think I would have a well balanced sound with the subs pulled way back during normal listening.. (as it stands, I have the sub control on the HU set to 0 when listening to normal music, it blends so well you don't know it's there till it is shut off. Even when it is off, you barely miss it during normal music)

To think, a year ago before I joined this site, I didn't even know that HU's had delays built in to them.. All I knew was that subs needed a particular amount of airspace, that impedance was an urgent factor. Never dreamed I would have that system that I always envied..

I owe it all to the fellas in here.. Mark AKA Here-I-Come has been a huge contributor to my knowledge base.. I still have lots to learn, but for now, I have a self built, self tuned system that blows away many of the top dollar hack systems that I have heard local.. DIYMA ROCKS!!

(I have never been to a show or a competition, I know when I go to a serious SQ and SPL competition, I will be very depressed, and will probably come home and tear my whole system out and start over)


----------



## PPI-ART (Mar 1, 2009)

sounds like a very nice setup. I wish I could hear it. As for the my jbl gti,s I cannot for the life of me remember what I paid for them but I do no that they were def over the 1k range. 

as for subs me personally I am a big fan of class A/B amps as opposed to class D. I personally have been competing in car audio comps since 92-93. back in those days you did not have many subs that could handle 2k to 3k watts. today I feel that all the car audio co. that are left are all about brute power the more watts the better. You do not need 10k watts to have a loud system. subs like Jl audio do not need brute power to be loud. its about a combo of SQ and SQL. Class A/B amp designs are less efficient as far as power consumption and thermal properties are concerned but in my expierience offer a more true sonic exp. at least for me. But to the avg person if your not competing and not putting it on the scope it is hard for the human ear to distinguish the diff between a class A/B to a class D amp. Just my opinion of course.

if you decide to switch to the ART amps in your setup or whatever let me know. Would love to see the outcome.

If you need any info on the PPI amps let me know I have tons of stuff.

Ken


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

PPI-ART said:


> sounds like a very nice setup. I wish I could hear it. As for the my jbl gti,s I cannot for the life of me remember what I paid for them but I do no that they were def over the 1k range.
> 
> as for subs me personally I am a big fan of class A/B amps as opposed to class D. I personally have been competing in car audio comps since 92-93. back in those days you did not have many subs that could handle 2k to 3k watts. today I feel that all the car audio co. that are left are all about brute power the more watts the better. You do not need 10k watts to have a loud system. subs like Jl audio do not need brute power to be loud. its about a combo of SQ and SQL. Class A/B amp designs are less efficient as far as power consumption and thermal properties are concerned but in my expierience offer a more true sonic exp. at least for me. But to the avg person if your not competing and not putting it on the scope it is hard for the human ear to distinguish the diff between a class A/B to a class D amp. Just my opinion of course.
> 
> ...



Ken, thanks for the kind words.. I am almost happy with what I've got..

Believe it or not I am able to make out the difference between A/B VS D on subs.. 

I might not be able to pick out the A/B vs the D in a side by side comparison, but from my general experience, I feel that the A/B amps have a bit of a warmer "weighted" feel to them. What I mean is that A/B amps have bit of a warmer, full bodied, controlled slam to them, a bit more impacting, less muddy?.. If that makes any sense..

I just spent the entire day tuning (or attempting to tune) my system. I have no EQ to speak of, just the stock EQ built into the HU which isn't worth ****, or is too confusing for me to correctly implement.

I almost have the sound that I want. If I could clear up that little bit of muddled clutter I am getting in the 80 to 200HZ range while retaining that serious "kick" in the kickdrum range, I'll be golden.. I think my driver placement has a lot to do with it. If I can bring the 5.25's up and out, pointed toward my ears, I think that would compensate for the midbass drowning vocals on certain tracks.. Other than that, with no EQ, I am getting a sound that I never would have expected from this setup. (midbass drivers are placed in my doorskin closest to me out of convenience)

I will eventually add an EQ and build a custom enclosure, done correctly for all my front stage drivers.. (no rear fill) The only music I am having a bit of trouble with is Heavy Metal, everything else sounds incredible.. But that's pretty common..

"A testament to Mmats tweeters.."

Today, I almost damaged one of my Mmats tweets. It still plays, but I almost torched it.. I accidentally reversed RCA's going out of my XO into my 4 channel. Basically, the Mmats tweets were getting 160HZ to about 2KHZ, 160 watts rms. The tweeter on the left started to pop at full volume, I knew something was up, just couldn't figure it out....This for about a half hour till I realized what the problem was.. 

Before I could figure out what I had stupidly done, I switched to the Alpines thinking I blew the Mmats tweeter, still not realizing that I had stupidly reversed RCA's. (Oh, It gets better)

The Alpines wouldn't have it, not even for a second or two. Not even at half volume. As soon as I installed the Alpines, made an adjustment to my XO, I powered up the system, at only half volume, the Alpines immediately started crackling.. I shut it off as quick as I could.. 

I'm thinking I blew my amp now.. First I had seriously diminished output from my mids and highs, that was the first sign. Then when the Mmats started popping, I thought it was tweeters. Then when I switched and the Alpines would have none of it, I thought the amp..

****sake man!! How could this happen? Mind you, before the Mmats finally gave up, I was playing the system for at least 20 mins at full volume trying to adjust the XO and delay with no results. 

It wasn't until I started pulling wires to switch amps (to see if I had actually fried the amp) that I finally figured out what was wrong.. Mind you, it's a serious pain in the ass to get at my wires.. The way i have my system installed, you have to weasle your way into the trunk, squeezing your head in just past the subs to get at the speaker terminals. Anyone with a big head would have to take the amps out to re-wire them. What a ****ing pain in the ass.. After I discovered my stupid mistake, I fixed it.. The Alpine tweets sound sweet I must say.. BTW, I tested the Mmats tweets after I fixed the problem, they still play cleanly..

GO MMATS!!

Since the Alpine are already in, I left them there, adjusted the XO till they were comfortable and left it alone.. They sound sweet, but can't play near as low as the Mmats tweets. I am having trouble distinguishing between the 2 on the top end. They sound pretty even. Both tweets have nice smooth detail with no harshness. Just that the Mmats are built like tanks in comparison, will play a lot lower, and handle a ridiculous amount of abuse.. Yes I confess, I am proof of that little tidbit.. 

I may switch back to the Mmats.. Having them dialed in real low really helped with the Metal music.. With the Alpine tweets, I am getting a bit of a harsher vocal sound during metal, this I think is because A) I have the 5.25's mounted in the stock door location B) I am now playing the 5.25's much higher than before to make up for the Alpine tweets inability to dig down low.... As it stands, I already have the 5.25's dialed pretty low to compensate for the poor placement of my midbass. Basically, the 5.25's are getting spread pretty thinly, they now have too much to do and they are doing it from a less than optimal location....

Midbass is cutoff @160HZ on the top, this because I have no EQ and because I feel the placement (midbass closest to me) is wrong.. What I am getting is an extremely overpowering midbass/midrange "wahh" or clutter, a bit nasal if you will.. It's clouding the vocals during Metal.

I have so much more to input here but I am getting tired of typing..

Anyone that hasn't heard the Mmats tweets should give them a listen.. Tell me if I have a decent ear or am I still Plankton drifting among Whales.... Well, after reading this, I think it safe to say that you will all agree that I am still Plankton among Whales..

TTYL Ken..


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

i know you arent using the ppi's for the bass anymore but thought id share a few things i learned when i was testing the 2 a600s i just bought. 

The a600 is a regulated amp so it produces the same power all the way down to ~10.8v and its slightly more efficient at lower voltages, nothing super noticable thou

Also a single A600 bridged on my 2 XXX 15s is the loudest 600w ive ever heard. My sundown 3000d is oviously louder but holy **** the ppi still rattled the garage quite a bit


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

i know you arent using the ppi's for the bass anymore but thought id share a few things i learned when i was testing the 2 a600s i just bought. 

The a600 is a regulated amp so it produces the same power all the way down to ~10.8v and its slightly more efficient at lower voltages, nothing super noticable thou

Also a single A600 bridged on my 2 XXX 15s is the loudest 600w ive ever heard. My sundown 3000d is oviously louder but holy **** the ppi still rattled the garage quite a bit


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

Dude, talk about hashing an old thread!! Yeah, that A600 you heard is really loud because they are known to crank out well over 700 watts rms when bridged.. I'm not sure as to the validity of some of the claims I've heard (people talk all kinds of ****) but some have said the A600 can make almost 800 watts rms.. (Would have to see to believe) 

But I agree,the A600 is one hella loud amp, makes for one hell of an OS A/B sub amp, and when used as a 2 channel @ 4 ohms, makes one hell of a killer midbass amp..


----------



## emperorjj1 (Sep 10, 2008)

ya its powering my midrange with it now and holy **** its awesome. 
i've only installed that one so far. I could bench test the second one if you want to see how much power it makes. The second one that had slightly more distortion over the first.

Oh ya figured id ask do you have any idea the difference from an a600 and a600.2? Secondly i was planning on using a single channel of an A100 for my center channel (a600s for the midrange/midbass, rear passive component set and mcitosh for the front tweeters) Would i notice a difference in sq with the 100 over the 600s? considering their build and regulated vs unregulated?


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

emperorjj1 said:


> ya its powering my midrange with it now and holy **** its awesome.
> i've only installed that one so far. I could bench test the second one if you want to see how much power it makes. The second one that had slightly more distortion over the first.
> 
> Oh ya figured id ask do you have any idea the difference from an a600 and a600.2? Secondly i was planning on using a single channel of an A100 for my center channel (a600s for the midrange/midbass, rear passive component set and mcitosh for the front tweeters) Would i notice a difference in sq with the 100 over the 600s? considering their build and regulated vs unregulated?


One of the Diyma members mentioned that he benched an A600.2 in 2 channel mode. Each channel reached 178watts (or was it 187?) rms @ 4 ohms, before clipping..

Nice amps.. Very clean but kinda harsh when they clip.. My Mmats amps are very clean, very dynamic, make tons of power and somehow don't ever get harsh sounding.. Maybe it's the overhead I'm hearing, at 160 watts rms x 4 for mids and highs, and 300 watts rms bridged for midbass, it's pretty easy to tune loud and clean with no worries.. My speakers max out before the amps ever clip..

However, Dave Thomas (is that his name? Or is that the Wendys guy?) over at Mmats told me that the Mmats SQ series amps that I have use a Toshiba output device or something, it's a piece that's used only by Mmats for the purpose it's being used for, whatever it is..

I think he mentioned it was proprietary but I'm so friggin burnt I can't remember talks like that clearly, which sux for me, brain damage.. I'm not a drooling vegetable that can't wipe his own ass, but I definitely have issues.. Makes for, tons of fun at parties.. Never a dull moment..


----------



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

CA&E tested one many years ago. If I remember right, and I think I do, it did 178 watts per channel at 4 ohms, and 304 at 2 ohms and 608 bridged.

I would say they typically produce rated power, but not much more. Doesn't matter though since 700 translates to what, less 1 db vs 600.


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

emperorjj1 said:


> ya its powering my midrange with it now and holy **** its awesome.
> i've only installed that one so far. I could bench test the second one if you want to see how much power it makes. The second one that had slightly more distortion over the first.
> 
> Oh ya figured id ask do you have any idea the difference from an a600 and a600.2? Secondly i was planning on using a single channel of an A100 for my center channel (a600s for the midrange/midbass, rear passive component set and mcitosh for the front tweeters) Would i notice a difference in sq with the 100 over the 600s? considering their build and regulated vs unregulated?


I missed the question.. You're asking if there is a difference in SQ between any of the Art series amps? 

To the best of my knowledge No. There is however a huge disparity in output power between the A100 and the A600. This could possibly be perceived as a difference in SQ. 

"PPI-Art" and a few others in here have tons of info regrading these amps, I think he knows them in and out, you may want to ask him any tech questions you have..


----------



## lust4sound (Apr 9, 2008)

emperorjj1 said:


> ya its powering my midrange with it now and holy **** its awesome.
> i've only installed that one so far. I could bench test the second one if you want to see how much power it makes. The second one that had slightly more distortion over the first.
> 
> Oh ya figured id ask do you have any idea the difference from an a600 and a600.2? Secondly i was planning on using a single channel of an A100 for my center channel (a600s for the midrange/midbass, rear passive component set and mcitosh for the front tweeters) Would i notice a difference in sq with the 100 over the 600s? considering their build and regulated vs unregulated?


Regulated vs unregulated, I'm not sure.. I know that the .2's are in much better demand then the regular arts, not sure if it's the graphics or because it may be a better amp in terms of reliability..

The sad thing is, I used to know the difference between regulated vs unregulated.. I can't remember for the life of me the Pro's and cons.. I think that with unregulated, the output power of the amp fluctuates with input voltage.. I think..


----------



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

The .2's have a beefed up power supply.

Yeah non regulated amps maximum power output fluctuates with input voltage whereas a regulated amp simply draws more current when voltage goes down to maintain a steady output.


----------



## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

The .2's have a beefed up power supply.

Yeah non regulated amps maximum power output fluctuates with input voltage whereas a regulated amp simply draws more current when voltage goes down to maintain a steady output.


----------

