# JL ZR800 review.



## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

Mid bass driver, JL ZR800. Amp, JL 300/2v2. Location, front door. 

I don't really have enough experience in the mid bass field to compare it to any other mid bass driver. I'm going to compare it to the Hertz High Energy 6.5s they replaced in the 60-300hz area. The install is an IB setup. JL says they can take 150 a piece and play down to 60hz in this configuration... First thing, they can play to 60 but cant handle a 12db slope doing it. The Hertz could. Output is up over the 6.5s but not really enough to warrant the add on. They seem to get flappy playing anything under 80hz. 

There where a ton of positive reviews on these drivers. Those people must have never heard a 6.5 do the same thing these do and basically do it better.

It's to late now to change them out so I hope they grow on me. If you are looking for a $300 driver set to fill in the gaps go for it. If you are wanting a component set that can do the same thing and more and don't mind spending $600 go with the Hertz HSK XL set and ditch the crossovers.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

Something must be amiss in the tune, or install. I have mine in the stock door location of an 08 silverado, running down to 50hz @24 db. Getting 150w rms off a hd600/4. 
In fact, I have to tone them down some, as they can really hammer on most songs.
currently running subless with them, and its very satisfying. Good impact and imaging... well above my dash. I know most comes from the tune, but I found them very capable drivers. 
My only gripe is they lack some detail in higher frequencies, but that's not what they are built for anyway. 
A true, purpose built midbass. Don't give up on them, revisit your tune/install. I imagine you may like them more!


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> Something must be amiss in the tune, or install. I have mine in the stock door location of an 08 silverado, running down to 50hz @24 db. Getting 150w rms off a hd600/4.
> In fact, I have to tone them down some, as they can really hammer on most songs.
> currently running subless with them, and its very satisfying. Good impact and imaging... well above my dash. I know most comes from the tune, but I found them very capable drivers.
> My only gripe is they lack some detail in higher frequencies, but that's not what they are built for anyway.
> A true, purpose built midbass. Don't give up on them, revisit your tune/install. I imagine you may like them more!


The install is pretty set in stone. The doors are pretty good, could be a bit better but not much. They are separated from the mid range. They are fine at a 24 slope.. Just not what I was expecting. I'm only running them up to 250hz. They blend fine I guess, if I had a more laid back sub stage I'm sure they would be perfect.


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

DC/Hertz said:


> The install is pretty set in stone. The doors are pretty good, could be a bit better but not much. They are separated from the mid range. They are fine at a 24 slope.. Just not what I was expecting. I'm only running them up to 250hz. They blend fine I guess, if I had a more laid back sub stage I'm sure they would be perfect.


Very good point. One of the reasons I went with the zr's was my substage choice. Diyma's blend nicely, and are butter smooth, but I like my impact too... hence I wanted a lil monster of a midbass. Lol

Trying to have my cake, and eat it too I guess. Lol


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

jcollin76 said:


> Very good point. One of the reasons I went with the zr's was my substage choice. Diyma's blend nicely, and are butter smooth, but I like my impact too... hence I wanted a lil monster of a midbass. Lol
> 
> Trying to have my cake, and eat it too I guess. Lol


I didn't want a door full of mids like most SPL builds but having a 150 db sound quality car isn't as easy as I thought it would be. And I knew it was going to be difficult.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

DC/Hertz said:


> ...There where a ton of positive reviews on these drivers. Those people must have never heard a 6.5 do the same thing these do and basically do it better...


*What is that assumption based off of? Maybe the results of the driver in different installs produces different results? So everyone else is clueless and your experience is word?*

Well, drivers must perform in the field or what's the point? However, we have all read and heard the stories or experienced drivers that worked great for some in some installs but not so much so in other installs for others.

Without having been in your car with you to hear these drivers side by maybe the specs will offer something? Well most would assume the 6 1/2" vs. 8" battle would be won by the 8"??????? Check the specs:

*ZR800-CW*
Free Air Resonance (Fs) - 46.27 Hz
Electrical “Q” (Qes) - 0.702
Mechanical “Q” (Qms) - 11.667
Total Speaker “Q” (Qts) - 0.662
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) - 0.787 cu ft / 22.29 L
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax) - 0.34 in / 9 mm
Efficiency (1 W / 1 m) - 87.0 db SPL
DC Resistance (Re) - 3.935 Ω

*Hertz HSK 165 XL*
Free Air Resonance (Fs) - 65 Hz
Electrical “Q” (Qes) - 0.63
Mechanical “Q” (Qms) - 5.50
Total Speaker “Q” (Qts) - 0.52
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) - 9.50 L
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax) - 8 mm
Efficiency (1 W / 1 m) - 93.5 db SPL
DC Resistance (Re) - 3.2 Ω

...right off the bat from what you described between the two drivers...and what the specs show me....it seems as if maybe the ZR's don't have enough airspace in your doors to play in. The larger surface area and Vas might be the problem??? The fact that you stated that they will not go low or play clean goes right inline with this theory. Not a 100 percent on this but there might be something here??? 

Tell us more about your doors....do the drivers play into the doors cavity or into the door panel? About how much space?

I for one have heard some great sounding 6 1/2" drivers and 8" drivers that did justice to the full midbass range. The ZR's are good midbass drivers and sounded good when I listed to them.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

WLDock said:


> *What is that assumption based off of? Maybe the results of the driver in different installs produces different results? So everyone else is clueless and your experience is word?*
> 
> Well, drivers must perform in the field or what's the point? However, we have all read and heard the stories or experienced drivers that worked great for some in some installs but not so much so in other installs for others.
> 
> ...


I guess I was expecting SA-8s but that's unrealistic. I'll add some pics later.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

Above 150Hz the Hertz will have the edge, below 150Hz the JL should take the lead-based on 3cf "IB enclosure" and 100wrms in BBrpo


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## Genxx (Mar 18, 2007)

I have the ZR800 in my truck vented full IB to the outside. I have run them down to 35hz 24db slope no issues. Currently at 50hz 24db slope no issues being run off 1/2 of a Zapco DC1000.4. 

Output and playing into the sub-bass region has never been an issue neither has blending them with a sub. I however did not like them crossed higher than 200hz anything above that and the sound changed in *my specific install*.

I have the Hertz HSK165 in my car (kickpanles) and they do very well but not below 60hz 24db slope. Below that and they reach their mechanical limit very quickly.

I have the Mille MLK165 in my other car and they will play down into the sub 60hz range with no issues mounted in car door.

The HSK do not have the impact of the ZR or the output. The Mille come very close on impact but do not match the output of the ZR. The Mille are also not as efficient as the ZR. The Mille do sound good playing to 2.5k though.

Every install is different. Do I think the ZR800 would do as well in my cars mounted in the same location as the 6.5 I use. No, for me to replicate the install of my truck I would have to do a lot of work to make them work as they do in my truck.

I have heard the ZR800 in several cars vented like my truck and they do replicate what mine sound like in the truck.

So do not place all your decision on the way they sound in your install to how they will do in another install. These mounted in doors I would recommend against. Either kicks or floor mounted, IMO. IMO you have chosen the wrong driver for your install location. A 6.5, 2 x 6.5 or different 8" midbass probably would have been a better choice in your install.

If you plan to keep the ZR800 I would work to optimize the install. Try different locations ect. and then decide whether they are for you or not.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

My gut tells me that either the volume inside the door is too small or it is not sealed up properly. ("sealed" as in rigid panels, covering up the openings)
When I first started, years ago, I had Milles in there with just dynamat covering the openings and had no bass what so ever.
It ended up being cancellation from the dynamat flopping around like a trash-bag covered car window going down the highway.









Is the opening behind the baffle/mounting ring, opened up enough?

...that's where I'd start


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

IBcivic said:


> My gut tells me that either the volume inside the door is too small or it is not sealed up properly. ("sealed" as in rigid panels, covering up the openings)
> When I first started, years ago, I had Milles in there with just dynamat covering the openings and had no bass what so ever.
> It ended up being cancellation from the dynamat flopping around like a trash-bag covered car window going down the highway.
> 
> ...


I had to cut out the door frame to mount them, there is no going back. They have the HSKs below 100hz but not the HSK XLs. The amount of output the XLs are capable of is a bit nuts for a 6.5. Like I said, they play fine wit ha 24 db slope, swithed to 12 the loose control and get flappy. I'll play with the crossovers again. I have the subs out right now so I can focus on them.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

Let me know what you see wrong. I can fix little things but it pretty much is what it is.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Wow ....fantastic fab skills! 

In the 4th pic, i can see that the openings in the door are wide open. The key to getting low end is isolating the back-wave from the front. 
My suggestion is
Close them up with removable panels. ( I made mine with dynamat covered hardboard, sprayed with undercoating)

As a test....I'd remove the hertz driver and block the hole with some mdf . It could be acting as a lousy P-Radiator


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

IBcivic said:


> Wow ....fantastic fab skills!
> 
> In the 4th pic, i can see that the openings in the door are wide open. The key to getting low end is isolating the back-wave from the front.
> My suggestion is
> ...


I get you. The Hertz is sealed.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

I see a lot of open space between the mounting panel and the door itself. You may want to seal it up better. Also there may be some resonance in the door card since they appear to be attached to that so you may have to dampen the door card and put a full layer of dampening on the door itself. Those 8's move a lot of air.


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## [email protected] (Jun 12, 2008)

In the 4th pic,it looks like the wires run behind the baffle towards the left side, making me thing the baffle isnt even secured air tight to the doors metal. But its hard to tell from the pic.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

BeatsDownLow said:


> In the 4th pic,it looks like the wires run behind the baffle towards the left side, making me thing the baffle isnt even secured air tight to the doors metal. But its hard to tell from the pic.


I layed some deadner around the mount.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

DC/Hertz said:


> I layed some deadner around the mount.


It needs to be sealed. That could be the first problem you are having. I still dont think that bafffle is nearly strong enough for those mids.


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

chefhow said:


> It needs to be sealed. That could be the first problem you are having. I still dont think that bafffle is nearly strong enough for those mids.


Ill dig back into it again. I feel the baffle is pretty good though. Its secured strong to the frame and is 1.5 inches of MDF. Im not getting any flex in the frame. With the subs off of course. Once they are going the whole car is flexing. So much its knocked my window track out of line.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

It looks like the drivers are playing Damn near freeair! Your install is not IB at all. You may have to glass the baffle in? Push reset and think sealed solid baffle with airspace behind it. Leaky IB won't cut it if one wants to go Low and Loud!

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## DC/Hertz (Nov 27, 2011)

WLDock said:


> It looks like the drivers are playing Damn near freeair! Your install is not IB at all. You may have to glass the baffle in? Push reset and think sealed solid baffle with airspace behind it. Leaky IB won't cut it if one wants to go Low and Loud!
> 
> Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2


Im going to go back and seal it up more. I'll update this in a few weeks when I get time to finish it up. I just order more deadner and I have some extra sheet metal. Im going to have to cut all the form out of the door panel, thats going to be fun


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Lookin' good.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I have been using these drivers for a few months now. They are mounted in my kickpanel area in an IB configuration. I have a hole cut in the floor sheetmetal that is directly ported to the outside. I am powering them from the sub channels on an Arc Audio KS900.6. Getting about 120wrms per channel.

The ZR800 definitely has low efficiency. Either that or 120wrms is enough power. At mid to low volume there is not solid midbass impact. When cranked up they really come alive. That is my only complaint about these drivers. 

Clarity, accuracy and low distortion are strong attributes of the ZR800. The mounted depth is fairly shallow. If I had more available depth I would have swapped them out for a different 8" driver just for comparison sake.

Bottom line : not the best, not the worst. Sound great but for strictly midbass duties I am sure there are better.


***** This is my first active 3-way so take my opinion for what it is.


I feel that it is imperative to show the install to help base my (or anybody else's) review.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yep, that big opening to access the window regulator is what's killing it. I had ZR800s in my GTI (and the door is sealed from the factory) and they were freakin monsters. Tons better than the RS225s that were in the door before them.


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