# 67 Camaro build/install



## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I had a thread some time ago about my install, but I got stalled and things changed. I am still in a full-blown restoration on my car, so the stereo install will be a bit slow. However, I should, cross my fingers, have the car finished within the next 3 to 4 months

Here's what I decided to do with my stereo. I sold off all the equipment I originally had and was going to install. I decided to simplify it a bit. I bought a pair of Exodus Anarchys and a pair of CDT ES-02's. That will be my front stage with no rear stage. I'll install a single 12" CDT QES 1220 in the center of the rear deck in a sealed box.

I built some boxes to install into my kick panels for the Anarchy's. It took a bit of designing and figure out how to get between .2 and .25 cu ft in the box. The boxes are built out of 16 gauge sheet metal and slide into the kick panel hole that I cut out. They will be welded into the kicks and flush with the face of the kick panels. The Anarchy's will be off-axis. I still do not know exactly where to install the tweets. I don't know if I should install them on the dash top firing into the windshield, make some pods and fire them across the dash at each other or install them in the kicks. I'm leaning towards option 2. What do you all think?

The amps are JL Audio 450/4 for the front stage and JL Audio 500/1 for the sub. The deck is a Clarion DRZ 9255 MC. Pretty cool deck. Also a Clarion CD changer, I'm old school. I would like to add something like an AudioControl DQXS or even better a RF 3sixty.3 if they ever come out.


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

Nice looking car! As far as where to install the tweets....I'd do that part last. Get the the other equipment in and making music. Temp wire the tweets and then listen to familiar music and try them in a few different locations. When they sound good, 'glass them in. Just my two cents. Good luck with the build.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks! Although the car isn't much to look at right now. I'm in the mockup and fabrication stage right now. All rust has been taken care of and she's straight, but just in primer. Anxious to get done with all the fab and m/up work so I can get some color on her and assembled for good!!!

The 3rd option is my least favorite, but the 2nd easiest to install. I'll play around with the tweet in different positions. I'm just afraid my leg and passengers leg would block the tweet down low as well as my sound stage would be low.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

REALLY nice fab work on those kick enclosures.  She's going to be a beauty when you finish her up!

Try and place the mid-bass drivers as far forward or as close to the firewall as you can in your enclosures. And I agree with customtronic on the tweeter placement.

For the Kickpanel enclosures, is there enough room to wrap the entire exterior with 1/8"-1/4" Closed Cell Foam or Neoprene before they slide into the kickpanel openings you've created? This would work really well to isolate the mid-bass speakers from the car and prevent resonances and rattles. It would also sound deaden this area in general.

I would also line the interior of the kickpanel enclosures with a butyl mat product and then open-cell acoustical foam, "BlackHole 5" or similar, then add polyfill to help gain back a bit of the lost enclosure space and further damp the backwave of the mid-bass.

While you still have her gutted, really think about sound deadening/mass-loading the entire Firewall as far as you can up and under the dash to the base of the windshield, and down into the floor pan. The firewalls on this era of vehicles is really thin and transmits A LOT of road and engine noise compared to modern vehicles.

Treat the transmission tunnel, too. I actually lined the Exterior of the trans tunnel (under the car) on a Mini Cooper S that I had with a layer of butyl mat, then MLV, then Ensolite CCF covered with a reinforced aluminum foil/heat shield and it made a HUGE difference in road noise, along with a similar treatment to the wheel wells. This seemed to REFLECT a lot of the energy so that it wasn't even transferred to the car's sheetmetal (better than trying to damp the vibration/noise after the fact).

While you're at it, treat the rear deck, floor pan area, interior ceiling, and doors, too! 

I realize that it's a lot of work, and expense as well, but if you haven't done this in the past you just can't imagine how much of an improvement it makes, and the car overall just "feels" so much more solid and substantial in general.

I've worked on a bunch of rod and classic car builds (my dad is a collector), and as much as I love to hear the awesome engine/exhaust "music", it's really tough to overcome this with the stereo, especially when on the highway where it's combined with road noise. I just want you to hear all of that SQ that your Clarion DRX-9255 is capable of!!! And all you have to do is roll down the windows to hear the sweet sounds of the engine and tailpipes again. 

So if eliminating engine and road noise is a concern on this build, the firewall, wheel wells, and transmission tunnel make the most difference in my experience, and then the floor pan and trunk/rear seat back divider. And depending on the car, treating the ceiling can make a huge difference. The limiting factor on most classic cars is all of the thinner window glass and the door/window gaskets.

Also, filling cavities, pillars, and voids with 3M Automix Flexible Foam #08463 or 3M Automix Pillar Foam #08458
really makes a difference on these cars, too.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-flexible-foam-08463-p-10858.aspx
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-pillar-foam-08458-p-10857.aspx

Anyway, sorry I turned this into another Sound Deadening thread, but it's just SO much easier to do when you're at this stage of the build!

Links:

Check out "Blackhole 5" or "Engine Liner Pro", "Dynaliner 2" and "DynaPad".

BlackHole5 at Blackhole 5 Enclosure Damping

Luxury Liner Pro and more at: Acoustic Vibration Dampening Mat

Cascade Audio at Soundproofing Barriers for Car Noise Control

Dynamat: http://www.dynamat.com/download/auto/2040_Auto_Brochure_Standard.pdf

RAAMmat: RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products

...and the hundreds of Sound Deadening threads already here, lol!

Keep it coming.


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## spl152db (Dec 20, 2007)

really looking forward to seeing more of this build. Very promising! oh and the last camaro I did had terrible resonance since its all sheet metal and deadener! Make sure you put some down!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> REALLY nice fab work on those kick enclosures.  She's going to be a beauty when you finish her up!
> 
> Try and place the mid-bass drivers as far forward or as close to the firewall as you can in your enclosures. And I agree with customtronic on the tweeter placement.
> 
> ...


Yeah, the midbasses are as far forward as they can possibly go and still be able to install kick panel covers. There is still about an inch of space left forward. I did not go that far because the area I was working with is raised and that last inch is lower than the rest of the area. The enclosures will be welded in and that lower area posed a bit of a problem. 

As far as sound deadening...I didn't mention in my OP, but I do have several bulk boxes of Dynamat Xtreme along with several yards of Ensolite CCF. I can't rap the exterior of the box before install because it is a tight fit into the opening I cut out. It's necessary I keep it a tight fit so I won't have problems dealing with the box not fitting right when I start welding it in. I am, however, going to lay a piece of deadener in the back of the opened kick area before I install the box. I will also line the interior of the box with the deadener as well. I can't put any spray foam into this area because GM designed this area as a water drain from the cowl area. I had to account for all of that when I was designing these boxes. I hit my target of the size I was going for, which is in the range of .2 and .25. It's difficult to get an accurate size, but the box is within those specs. The mids will live happily in this size box. I intend to play around with polyfill to see if it is really needed.

I decided not to use MLV because of its thickness. With the carpet, it would be just too thick. I have installed weld in subframe connectors that cut into the floor, so I'm already going to have problems even getting carpet to fit well there. Also, my console, in the pic, which I am fabricating myself, will not allow me to use MLV. I could barely accomodate the thickness of the Dynamat there, which is a must on the trans tunnel.

I also intend to line the back of the dash with the Dynamat and the CCF. I will also, when all said and done, build a panel to closeout the dash area from the rest of the car in hopes of keeping any of the midbass from traveling behind the dash.

I have a long ways to go and a short time to get there with this build. I have set a completion date for this May. That means paint and all. However, this will be phase one of the build. Phase two, after I am driving the car, will be a complete upgrade of the suspension and wheels and tires. My budget at this time will not allow those items and allow me to meet my May deadline. This car has been a 10 year restoration so far and I have to get it together at this point. No more delays!!! It does have Hotchkis suspension on it now though.

Anyway, thanks for the kudos and tips guys. Keep em coming!


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

I love the GenI Camaro's! It's always good to see more '60s and '70s muscle cars on the board. We are building up a '72 Chevelle. Went a little different route for the front drivers and tweeters. The trunk is framed out for a single 10" JL, bi-amped, and a false bottom in the trunk to hide the hardware.


































The sub box will be behind the back wall with just the face and grill exposed.









Looking forward to the rest of your build!
-Doug


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Nice build! You have sooooo much more room to play with than I do. I originally was going to install a 3/4" angle bracket that I made and them use a wood baffle and glass the rear in, but that would require me to remove my foot operated ebrake and install a hand operated ebrake. I just couldn't incorporate a hand ebrake into my console design. My console is a retro version of the original 67 console. I'm actually using the chrome sides of the original console on my new console. My setup now is still going to be tight with the foot operated brake, but it does clear!!

I love the old metal. Give me old school any day over anything new


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

jebcamaro said:


> Nice build! You have sooooo much more room to play with than I do. I originally was going to install a 3/4" angle bracket that I made and them use a wood baffle and glass the rear in, but that would require me to remove my foot operated ebrake and install a hand operated ebrake. I just couldn't incorporate a hand ebrake into my console design. My console is a retro version of the original 67 console. I'm actually using the chrome sides of the original console on my new console. My setup now is still going to be tight with the foot operated brake, but it does clear!!
> 
> I love the old metal. Give me old school any day over anything new


Definitely more room. A buddy of mine is getting ready to start his '68 Camaro build and was over looking at our ebrake clearance. It's tight but workable. I've had this old muscle since I was 15. Got me through high school and college. Parents bought it new so I know everything that's been done to it. Good and bad...

Love your console. We went more traditional with a repop, but I see a custom in our future. No place to put my Starbucks


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Cup holder and arm rest was a must for me. Hence the reason for the custom console. Its not difficult to do if you have some fab skills, but it is time consuming


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I got out in the garage today and tinkered around a little bit. I didn't really get much of anything done other than tack welded the boxes into the kicks and mounted the Anarchy's. Of course, I had to break out the deck and amp and play around a little bit. I was highly impressed with the sound. It was a lot more than what I was expecting without any type of sound deadener installed or any interior. I needs work, but it was just a mockup sound test. I played around with tweeter placement and I found that I liked them in the kicks best. The sound isn't as low as I thought it would be. From the way it sounds now, though, it needs rear fill. Guess I'll revisit that when I start getting some deadener and interior in the car. 

Anyway, here's a few update pics and just a few I thought I'd throw in for 


Oh yeah, I told a fib in my OP. I don't know why I was saying I had a drz 9255. The deck I actually have is a dxz 955 mc


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Holy sheit! Everything looks beautiful, man...You are doing it right, brother! Awesome to have that rotisseree...too bad she's not still up there...would've shot the entire underside and wheel wells with primer then rubber undercoating and applied firewall liner on the engine side.

That V8 looks awesome as well! Balanced & blueprinted, crate engine, bore & stroke, ported the heads, forged pistons & rods, what cam you running???!!! You mentioned suspension, too...what are you going to run? Disc brakes? Trans? Rear diff? Too many questions, sorry, haha!

Nice compressor you got there, too...makes life so much easier when they can keep up with your tools and run multiple at the same time. 

If you can, try and make some under-dash sound-absorbing panels that flush out from the outer edge of the lower dash back to the firewall. With your skills you could probably fab these from a wire frame with wire mesh. I've been using CoroPlast corrugated plastic sheets for this lately...it's lightweight and ridgid (what sign shops use for temporary real estate and politician's signs). I usually use cardboard or armature wire to get the shape for the frame/template. Apply acoustical foam and then cover with grille cloth or carpet. This finishes off the footwells/under dash areas nicely. Use velcro to keep them in place but make them easily removable.

Those kickpanel enclosures are recessed in to where the original fresh-air vents were, right?

Looks like you've got everything very well under control on this build. Will be watching this closely.

P.S. You can get rid of that foot brake assembly by using a linear actuator if you'd like.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

And if you've got room, fab a battery tray for a "DieHard Marine Battery, Platinum PM-1 Group 31M" under the hood or in the trunk. Item # 02850131000.

Link:

http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=02850131000P&sid=&psid=


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I had a 69 Camaro that I was going to build as well. I had all the body parts to redo the body and a motor and trans for it. I scrapped the build when the economy went south and my business suffered from it. So, I started selling off everything for it. A guy came by and spotted my rotisserie and made an offer I couldn't refuse. Good thing is, he's going to let me borrow it in a few weeks so I can get the bottom side finished out.

The motor is not too special. However, it is blueprinted and balanced. The cam was degreed as well. The heads are Edelbrock E-Tec 200's. Only thing done to them was the ports were slightly cleaned up from casting flash. These heads come from the factory already pocketed ported and CNC'd intake and exhaust ported openings. I upgraded the springs in them along with ARP rocker studs. I also installed 10* titanium valve retainers. I installed Comp Cams ProMagnum 1.6 full roller rockers. It has a Howards hydraulic roller cam in it that is in the lower range of the medium range cams. This is a street car, so I wanted to keep the cam a bit small.

The bottom end is all forged. Forged crank, forged h-beam rods and forged flat top pistons. The block is a brand new GM 4 bolt main and factory clearanced. It has a stock looking oil pan that is called a cheater pan. It has a bolt in windage tray, trap door and 2 crank scrapers. A Z28 oil pump along with a SFI balancer and flexplate. All the bolts on the motor are ARP. Nearly all of them are polished stainless steel. The induction is a polished Edelbrock Air-Gap for vortec style heads, which the Eddie heads are. My tried and true Barry Grant Speed Demon 650 DP tops off the motor. I had it powder coated to match my red color scheme. I originally polished it, but the BG's have too much magnesium mixed in the aluminum. So the polish doesn't last long. Plus, it was just showing too much aluminum. I wanted to break it up a bit for more contrast. I also painted the aluminum water pump with the motor as well. The exhaust is handled with a set of Dynatech 1 3/4" stepped headers flowing into a 2.5" Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust system containing a x-pipe.

The transmission is a fully built, upgraded, 4L60E automatic. The carbureted motor caused a problem there, so I outsourced a computer to control the transmission along with giving me full tuning capabilities on the fly. I am awaiting a Lokar billet floor shifter to install. It will be here Tuesday. However, I do have a Twist Machine paddle shifter to utilize on the car as well. To complete the drive train is a factory 12 bolt rearend with the factory Eaton posi and factory 3.73 gears. I went through the rear end and replaced the axles with Moser axles and replaced all the seals and bearings. I also added a Jegs aluminum diff cover and ARP carrier studs. I have yet to order a driveshaft. I'm still waiting to drop the motor and trans in the car so I can fab up my trans crossmember and plumb the motor. I can then measure to have the driveshaft made. It's aluminum though

The suspension is Hotchkis 2" drop coils in the front and 1.5" drop leafs in the rear. I have installed tubular upper and lower control arms that use Del-Rin bushings instead of poly or rubber. Wilwood front and rear disk brakes with integral parking brake will take care of stopping this old muscle. I am, at the time, running GM factory 15" rally wheels with BFG 235 front tires and 255 rear. For me to put this car on the road, I'm forgoing the suspension I really want and larger aluminum wheels and tires. I wanted to make sure there was enough in my budget for all the other stuff I wanted first. Those aforementioned other items can come in the near future though.

I am running Vintage Air Gen IV climate system, so the fresh air vents were going to be no longer utilized. I took care of that void

I already have a yellow top Optima with billet tray. Its to be installed in the trunk. I just haven't nailed down its exact location yet.

Thanks for the compliments and tips. I do plan to try to install some sort of closeout under the dash. However, it may pose to be very difficult to do.


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

I really like your fab skills on the sheet metal enclosures. Nice work. I would still see if there is any to incorporate some mlv into the build. Subscribed for more!


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

My first car was a 69 so I'm definitely watching this one with great interest. I really like the kicks, nice fab work there.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks...My plan right now is to stick to what I have going right now. I do plan to revisit that at a later date though. I know the MLV will be an even bigger improvement. The carpet kit I have, which all of them are like this, only has a tad bit of excess when fitting it in the car. With the extra thickness of the MLV, I'm afraid I would be short on carpet. I'm not liking the carpet kit I have right now, though. This summer, when I plan to get the seats reworked and recovered, 2000 Trans Am seats, I'm going to discuss the carpet issue with the upholsterer. I'll be able, then, to incorporate the MLV into the car.

Off to the garage for the day to see what I can get done! More pics to come


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## ehummelman (Feb 15, 2012)

Nice 69. I've got a 69 Firebird I'm trying to fit some sound to now. Are you on Protouring.com? If not, get over there, great bunch of guys who'd like to see your build.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

ehummelman said:


> Nice 69. I've got a 69 Firebird I'm trying to fit some sound to now. Are you on Protouring.com? If not, get over there, great bunch of guys who'd like to see your build.


69?! Everyone knows wings makes your car fly. My car has wings. It's a 67. That is just sacrilege to mistake the real Camaro to a 69 haha! Thanks for the compliment

I'm on all the sites. I've been a member on them for around 10 years now. I do have my build over on pt and team camaros. I haven't had much time lately to get much done. I have changed directions on one aspect of my build. I went ahead and decided to put 18"s on the car with some Nitto NT 05's. I am also putting the Ridetech AirBar rear tri-4 link with the Speedtech/ATS Chicane front coilover mount conversion. I'm going coilovers on all 4 corners. My wheel choice has forced me to have to do a slight minitub on the rear. 10.5" rear wheels with 295/35r18's. I am going to start the minitub this weekend and finish it up next weekend as well as, hopefully, get the rear 4 link installed next weekend.

Here's a shot of my new wheels. This is of one of the rears.


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## EEB (Jul 21, 2008)

Nice build, both of you! My first car audio install was in my 72 Chevelle that I drove in high school. Nothing like you guys are doing though. Was just front/rear speakers, two 12's in the trunk with 2 amps and an Alpine 2 knob tape player. I had the stuff in for about 2 years and once I built a new motor/trans I took it all out. Only left the 2 knob in and put some 6x9's in the rear deck just so I had some sound. I actually still have the car but it hasn't been on the road since 1996


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

EEB said:


> Nice build, both of you! My first car audio install was in my 72 Chevelle that I drove in high school. Nothing like you guys are doing though. Was just front/rear speakers, two 12's in the trunk with 2 amps and an Alpine 2 knob tape player. I had the stuff in for about 2 years and once I built a new motor/trans I took it all out. Only left the 2 knob in and put some 6x9's in the rear deck just so I had some sound. I actually still have the car but it hasn't been on the road since 1996


Get'er back on the road!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Tail shot with one of my new wheel/tire on the drivers side. Its just sitting in the wheel well. It's too wide to fit completely. Gotta minitub it. Also my new billet/led tail lights and billet locking gas cap


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

WOW! This is going to be so sick! Your skills are definitely to be admired.


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## ehummelman (Feb 15, 2012)

jebcamaro said:


> 69?! Everyone knows wings makes your car fly. My car has wings. It's a 67. That is just sacrilege to mistake the real Camaro to a 69 haha! Thanks for the compliment
> 
> .


I have no idea why I said that, i know your is not a 69. Very different car. Brain fart I guess.
I'm curious about the sub install particularly. I see it's sealed facing to the back. What is your rear deck like? Do you have a fold down seat? I am wondering about the bass getting into the cabin. Mine has a pretty solid fold down and there will be 6x9s in the deck so I'm still not sure where I'll put the sub. Trying to gather ideas still.

FYI on the minitub, I guess if I was in your stage of building I would do it too. May as well make more room in case you want to go really wide later. However, if you don't want to mess with all the work and potential seat fitment problems, the PO of my car was able to fit 275s on 18x10 rims in the back with just careful backspacing. It looks pretty wide from the rear. Just a thought. Like I said, I would have done it at that stage, and the PO of my car actually regretted not doing it too, so...


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## ehummelman (Feb 15, 2012)

Forgot to ask, how did you attach your closout panels? Did you just bolt them down through the trunk floor? Are the sides removeable? I'm thinking of at least the one corner on my car where the battery sits. I'd need that to be serviceable.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

ehummelman said:


> Forgot to ask, how did you attach your closout panels? Did you just bolt them down through the trunk floor? Are the sides removeable? I'm thinking of at least the one corner on my car where the battery sits. I'd need that to be serviceable.


That is DougChambers Chevelle he is building that has all the woodwork going on in his trunk. I have not gotten to that stage yet on my build. I just built the metal boxes to install into my kickpanels


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

ehummelman said:


> I have no idea why I said that, i know your is not a 69. Very different car. Brain fart I guess.
> I'm curious about the sub install particularly. I see it's sealed facing to the back. What is your rear deck like? Do you have a fold down seat? I am wondering about the bass getting into the cabin. Mine has a pretty solid fold down and there will be 6x9s in the deck so I'm still not sure where I'll put the sub. Trying to gather ideas still.
> 
> FYI on the minitub, I guess if I was in your stage of building I would do it too. May as well make more room in case you want to go really wide later. However, if you don't want to mess with all the work and potential seat fitment problems, the PO of my car was able to fit 275s on 18x10 rims in the back with just careful backspacing. It looks pretty wide from the rear. Just a thought. Like I said, I would have done it at that stage, and the PO of my car actually regretted not doing it too, so...


I am well aware of what fits and not. I stated earlier the wheels I chose are 10.5", so those require me to do the minitub. Not trying to sound like a smartass or anything. I'm just stating I have already addressed all that.


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## Matt R (Aug 29, 2007)

Cool car man!


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## EEB (Jul 21, 2008)

jebcamaro said:


> Get'er back on the road!


I would love to but cant afford to do anything to it right now. It got wrecked in 1996 and needs a front clip plus some other stuff...


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

This section states it is for builds/installs of audio systems, but I am going to use this a blog for the construction of my complete car. I have been extremely busy as of late and have ordered a big pile of new parts, so no time to install them. I will have a lot more time this month to get some work done on my car. I will be making some huge updates in the following days.

So stay tuned...


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing what you have in store for us next!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Small update...

New rear suspension being fitted and starting the minitub process


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

How big of a tire do you plan on running?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Nitto NT05 295/35r18 on the rear for the time being


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

That should look really good in there. Is that a DSE rear setup?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks, I think it will too. No, it is a Ridetech AirBar setup. I will be running coil-overs though, not air shocks. She should take the turns nice and flat. Plans for now are no rear sway bar. I'll add one if I feel it needs one after I get some time in the seat with the new setup. Its been 10 years since I drove this car last, so memories of how it actually drove are nearly gone. I do remember it not handling very well. 45 year old stock original suspension did not drive well at all. That I do remember


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

I had a 69 many years ago and I do remember the ride wasn't so hot either


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

pocket5s said:


> I had a 69 many years ago and I do remember the ride wasn't so hot either


It's not too fun driving a car with 60's technology in traffic with modern cars. My car had 4 wheel manual drum brakes They worked great till you had to do a panic stop. I popped up over a hill one time and a red light just below the hill was red with several cars stopped at it. Needless to say, I was sitting inches from the car in front of me, sideways no doubt, after sliding to a halt. My heart was in my throat, my lunch was all over the windshield and my drawers were not white anymore:laugh:


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## funkalicious (Oct 8, 2007)

I admire your patience and persistence to get this done. A friend of mine had one of these in high school and seeing yours brought back memories of some pretty wild driving exploits (we were drifting before drifting was cool ). Fantastic job so far!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks funk:beerchug:

Small update. I was originally going to just split the original inner tubs and widen them, but decided to order an already made set from DSE. I should have this minitub job done in a few days.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

None of the parts I have been waiting on showed up Friday like they were suppose to, so I sat almost idle on the car. I did, however, get 1 of the 2 sub boxes built. Also snapped a pic of my dirty rearend


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

It's been a little while since I posted any updates. I've been so busy that I have not had a great deal of time to work on my car, but I did manage to finally get the driver's side mini tub installed


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Those DSE tubs probably look more factory than your original plan. Car looks good. Someday I WILL have a 1st Gen Camaro.

Jay


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks. I'm happy with the way it turned out. I stressed over the way it was fitting for a while, though. Now I just have to tackle the passenger side and get my rotisserie welded together and get my front subframe sandblasted, welded, modified, primed and installed on the car. I bought my driveshaft, but did not give them a measurement. I want to get them a measurement within the next 3 weeks Although, I have to install the motor and transmission so I can modify the trans crossmember. I have to setup the driveline angle and install the rearend with suspension and set the pinion angle before I can measure. I have a lot to do!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Got started on the passenger side tub. Made the cut out and prefitted the tub in.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Progress updates!


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

That's quite the shock tower attachment point!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

HA! Yeah, that's my Speedtech Performance ATS/Chicane upper coilover brackets. I am test fitting them now and they are tack welded in place in that pic. I'm waiting on more parts right now to finish welding them once I know for sure that is the proper location. Aggravating to keep running into snags. I order the right parts and the wrong parts come. I get talk out of the parts I know I need and end up having to order them later. Part doesn't fit right, so something else has to be ordered or modified to make fit right...yadda...yadda...I'm sure you know the story all too well


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looking good! I know the feeling...everything takes 3x longer than you think it will! Currently restoring a '32 Ford model B pickup with my Pops. Luckily most of the original parts are there and in good shape. Just picked up a spare block to get b&b! Converted the mechanical brakes to hydrolics so it will actually stop now, lol.

Your time is well spent tho!! You're doing everything right the 1st time...no redo's! Keep us posted. And hit that firewall with a healthy dose of dynamat + dynaliner pro/luxury liner pro or equivilent while it's all accessible!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks man...You and your dad building the truck to stock or a hot rod? The sound deadener install is in the build, just not at that stage yet. I have several boxes of Dynamat Xtreme and Ensolite sitting on the shelf waiting


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Nice regarding the dynamat in waiting!

We're keeping the '32 B pickup stock since it's in really good shape all around and nearly complete/original as is it sits. There are plenty of 32' rods out there and he's already built a few of them, so...


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

That is an extremely rare truck to be in that good of shape. Trucks, until recently, were just tools. Its near impossible to find something like that, much less in that good of shape. Way to keep it original! I like it


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Not a great deal of progress on the car. I'm still waiting on parts from Eaton. I have no idea when they will arrive

I have made some progress on my rotisserie though. I have just about finished drilling all the holes needed. I also received my rotator parts from my tool and die friend. He and I collaborated on this design. It was my original idea, but he helped me tweak it so it would work best. It turned out great! I can't wait to get this thing finished. 

I am having to modify my lower control arms. I have to cut off the spring pocket and weld in 1/4" plate to make a flat mounting surface to attach the coilovers. I'm still working on that. I have one control arm done. I just need to work on the other. Cutting 1/4" plate with a cut off wheel is not fun. If anyone on here is in or near the Memphis area and knows of a shop with a water or lazer jet that can cut some pieces for me at a reasonable price, then PLEASE contact me!


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Very interested to see how your rotisserie turns out! Loving what I see so far.  I'd love it if the car photography studio that I usually shoot at had a well-designed rotisserie. I worked on the Nissan GT-R advertising shoot a few years ago and we needed to shoot the entire undercarriage of the car. The only rotisserie available for rent was a complete POS which made my life hell. 

You should hit up Ron or Richard (Dick) Gray at South Bay Studios in Long Beach, CA to see if they would buy one of the rotisseries that you designed. They're one of the largest car studios on the West Coast and could surely benefit by having one of these! Check it out at Southbay Studios - Film and Video Stages

Looking forward to seeing more of your build!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm not too sure my design could handle the full weight of a complete car. My design is very heavy duty, but I'm just not sure 3000#'s on it would not stress it to the point of failure. I would definitely build one for them, but the price tag would be on the high side. I have nearly $1500 in it and I'm building it myself 
If I built one for someone, it would be over 2 grand of the same design. You can get them cheaper, but they aren't as strong as mine. They do not have roller bearings and do not have pneumatic jacks to lift the car. Also, they do not have a worm gear drive to rotate the car. All of these things mine does have and is American made!


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Sounds awesome! Yeah, it would have to be heavy duty for sure (for a complete vehicle), and I would expect it to be at least $3k-$5k. Problem is designing a versatile mounting system to work with as many vehicles as possible while not obstructing the photographic "view" of the undercarriage. Love where you've taken it thus far!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

It's the rotator part of my design that I don't believe could handle that much weight. Mine is being built to be about as universal as you can make a rotisserie. Each vehicle would have different attachment points, so you would have to make attachments specific to each vehicle. Almost wouldn't be feasible to do that. I am making mine with different attachments to mount various items as well as mounting my car in different positions. It's gonna be awesome when finished


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Things are still slow with the build. I keep running into snag after snag. My latest ongoing saga is the front suspension setup and the rearend rebuild. I discovered Friday that the length of the front coilovers I was informed to buy are too short. It appears I need 2" longer coilovers, which is actually a good thing since I can get more travel out of my front end. I am going to have to call 2 different vendors Monday to confirm all of my new findings about my front suspension setup.

The rearend rebuild ran into a snag when my Moser pinion yoke would not slide down enough on the pinion to tighten the pinion nut on. I tried an old GM pinion yoke and it fit fine. I'm going to have to deal with Moser Monday to see if I was given the wrong part or if its machined wrong.

Needless to say, this has all been one big headache after another. If I had it to do all over again, I would have just stuck with the stock style Hotchkis suspension I had on the car prior to my decision to go 4-link rear and coilover's on all 4 corners. Oh well, at least I'm getting all the kinks worked out, hopefully.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

Looks good


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

jebcamaro said:


> Things are still slow with the build. I keep running into snag after snag. My latest ongoing saga is the front suspension setup and the rearend rebuild. I discovered Friday that the length of the front coilovers I was informed to buy are too short. It appears I need 2" longer coilovers, which is actually a good thing since I can get more travel out of my front end. I am going to have to call 2 different vendors Monday to confirm all of my new findings about my front suspension setup.
> 
> The rearend rebuild ran into a snag when my Moser pinion yoke would not slide down enough on the pinion to tighten the pinion nut on. I tried an old GM pinion yoke and it fit fine. I'm going to have to deal with Moser Monday to see if I was given the wrong part or if its machined wrong.
> 
> Needless to say, this has all been one big headache after another. If I had it to do all over again, I would have just stuck with the stock style Hotchkis suspension I had on the car prior to my decision to go 4-link rear and coilover's on all 4 corners. Oh well, at least I'm getting all the kinks worked out, hopefully.


Well, I can certainly understand your frustration, but if you had simply went with the Hotchkis suspension, you would have always kicked yourself for not going all-out. 

Hang in there...once you get everything worked out and put together the difference will be HUGE!  I would LOVE to have this car with the way you are going about it!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks guys...I managed to work through the rearend rebuild. Moser took care of my yoke and got the tolerances within spec, so it is now done. I'm still waiting on my new, longer front coil-overs. They should be here tomorrow and then I can get that chapter closed in an easy afternoon.

With a few chapters closed, new ones are waiting to be read. Here's my new whoas My badass Dynatech headers do not fit the DSE steering box they were designed to fit. I'm working with them to come up with a solution, but its not looking good. They are pretty much out of options as to what to do to make these headers work. The DSE box is a must, so its staying. Dynatech won't modify the header, but they will take them back and refund my money. However, I'm not so quick to send these back. I need to find someone local to me to see if I can get this header modified to fit my application.

Little car porn till the next installment


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## robolop (Mar 10, 2008)

Beautiful restoration to follow dude!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks robo...

I had a productive Saturday. FINALLY!

I got the rear pinion angle set and the upper bar tabs tacked onto the rearend for the rear 4-link.

I managed to get the Dynatech headers to finally fit the DSE steering box as well. I had it setup for them to go back, but thought I'd give it one last go today and try to get them to fit. After researching last night for headers and only came up with custom built headers for around $2000, I found more motivation to try and make these work. They do not fit perfectly, though. I will have to dimple #5 primary tube to clear the steering box. I can live with that

My longer front coil-overs came Friday, so I will get the front suspension setup early this week. I ordered a G-Force cross member and it will be here Tuesday. Providing I get the front suspension done Monday and no later than Tuesday, I will be able to put this car on the ground with its new suspension and complete drivetrain in the car.

I, also, measured for my driveshaft, so I will be ordering that Monday.

Here's some pictures for those that like the picture books instead of the books with words

Rear suspension at ride height


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

NICE! Sounds like everything is finally coming together!  That last push is always the hardest, but it seems that everything else should be an easier cruise downhill to the finish line from here.  Mad props on your skills and determination to get it done!

And thanks for the pics...I'm really liking those wheels and shoes! [email protected], she's gonna be BEAUTIFUL!

...Oh, don't forget to sound deaden.  Some Spectrum Sludge or equivalent on that underbody and in the wheel wells should help quite a bit. But if you can afford it, some Lord-Fusor 121, 130, and 805 foams to fill the pillars, crossmembers, frame rails/beams, wheel wells and undercarriage work amazingly. Makes your old bucket as solid and quiet as a modern luxury car, except that it will allow you to hear your engine/exhaust's true tone without body rattles, panel resonances, etc. Just using the 121 between the sheetmetal and crossbeams in the ceiling, doors, and hood supports makes a HUGE difference in this era of cars.

Here's a link...

LORD Corporation - Seam Sealers & Foams

I'd be interested in photographing the car when you're done!


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## funkalicious (Oct 8, 2007)

I'm always curious when I see motor builds like this: What was your decision process in choosing carburetion over fuel injection?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks bb. Lord Fusor already in tha house

funk...Carburetors are inconsistent, at times. Cold mornings you have to sit there and feather the gas for a couple minutes till the motor warms up enough to idle on its own. Fuel mileage is neither consistent or great. 

Fuel injection is dead consistent. It cranks the same on that cold morning as it does on a hot day. It runs the same on that 5000 ft elevation hill as it does at sea level. It gets great fuel mileage. No fuel starvation issues at the motor in hard corners.

With all that said, carburetors initial setup is cheaper and more user-friendly to install (less complicated). However, fuel injection can never meet the power levels a carburetor can make. Carburetors can be made to work very well at all levels.

Plus, I'm old school. I like the look of carburetors


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Been out in the garage today messing around getting my front suspension finished. I got the new coil-overs mounted. From the looks of the front suspension at full droop, I'm not completely sure the 5" stroke shock will work. In the pictures, the upper arms are sitting on the bump stops, however look how low the front suspension droops down unloaded compared to the rear set at ride height. Does that look right? When the car is set down on the tires, will all the weight in the front compress the shocks 2.5"?

Also, I installed Ridetech Truturn system. It fits the Dynatech headers and my oil pan as well. Finally, something that fits. But! I'm not sure these wheels are going to work. It appears the adapters I have on there right now, 2", are pushing the wheel out too far. I don't know how to accurately measure for the correct size without having a reference measurement to go by. I found a great calculator on the net, but without a reference measurement to go by, I just have to play the guessing game. Anyway, the tie rod stud is within a hair of touching the rim. I could cut it shorter as it sticks out around a 1/2 inch past the nut when fully tightened and gain clearance there?

I made some brackets and mounted my power steering cooler. I still have to make the steering lines. I might make them tomorrow.

I, also, installed the transmission cooler lines. What a mfer it was to install those after the motor was installed. I knew I should have installed them prior to installing the motor/trans. They are TH350 lines and they fit right up to the 4L60E.

I would say, today was a good day


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

jebcamaro said:


> I, also, installed the transmission cooler lines. What a mfer it was to install those after the motor was installed. I knew I should have installed them prior to installing the motor/trans. They are TH350 lines and they fit right up to the 4L60E.


Bummer, looks like you had to drop that header as well, but you got it done! It's hard to tell from the photos regarding the front suspension. Does look like it's gonna be close, but I think the only way you'll know for sure is when you set her down on rubber. I hope those wheels work out as well!

Don't forget to hit that firewall on both sides with some deadening and engine liner before you get the engine compartment all boxed in.  Fill/cover any holes that you will not be using beforehand. I'd do BlackHole5 over a layer of deadening mat (Dynamat Extreme, etc.) on the interior side of the firewall, and Cascade Audio Engineering's (CAE) VB-TSM Engine Box Liner on the engine side (or on both sides in place of BH5).

VB-TSM is a sound absorber, blocker and thermal control material all in one!

Anyway, it's GREAT to see that your work continues on this project! I also appreciate how clean you keep your shop/garage! Looking forward to seeing more.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm building a higher scale muscle car that can handle and haul ass along with a nice stereo system. However, I am not building a rolling audio system. I have my sound deadener chosen and bought. It is not enough for a competition level car, but more than enough for the style car I'm building. I appreciate all the advice about the sound deadener, but I've told you, more than once, I have that covered to the level it needs to be. Not trying to sound like a jerk, you just mention all that in every reply after I have answered you every time


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Some day I will have a '67 or '68 Camaro. Except mine will be fuel injected. LOL I'm old school, but I'm not *THAT* old school. 

Jay


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

How old are you Jay?


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

39. But I've quite literally been a "car guy" since I was 3. No joke.


Jay


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

jebcamaro said:


> I'm building a higher scale muscle car that can handle and haul ass along with a nice stereo system. However, I am not building a rolling audio system. I have my sound deadener chosen and bought. It is not enough for a competition level car, but more than enough for the style car I'm building. I appreciate all the advice about the sound deadener, but I've told you, more than once, I have that covered to the level it needs to be. Not trying to sound like a jerk, you just mention all that in every reply after I have answered you every time


You're right, dude! Sorry if I've been a bit overbearing with every one of my responses including my sound deadening rant. :blush: I guess when I saw the extensive work you did fabricating those kickpanel enclosures early on in your log, I figured that you were going to serious lengths to optimize this build for SQ, and I just never got that out of my thick noggin'. 

Both my father and an uncle are serious classic/muscle car collectors/builders/restorers, so I've seen quite a few and been involved in one or two of these types of projects. I know first hand how easy it is to do the sound deadening at this stage of the build, and how hard it is to go back to do it after the fact after hearing both my father and uncle (and a few of their clients) say, "I wish we would have..." 

Afterall, you are on posting this build on "DIYMA", so expect to encounter a few crazy SQ fanatics here such as myself, LOL. 

I would LOVE to own/drive this vehicle myself, even if it didn't have a stereo in it at all! And I really respect and am super stoked the way you are going about this build. 

No offense meant, and none taken.  I promise to ease up a bit and sit back and watch you do what you do best creating this piece of muscle car art. Thanks again for posting it here!

Carry on.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I am a huge car audio nut and that is why I spent 15 hours designing, measuring and building those kick panel enclosures. The audio system is a very important part of this build to me. SQ is the utmost importance to me. With all that said though, I have to make 'some' compromises there. Let's face it, sound deadening can add considerable weight to a vehicle. I do have 3 boxes of Dynamat Xtreme and several yards of Ensolite CCF. I have several products made by Lord Fusor along with their specific gun to be used with their 2 part tubes.

I can't use foam in this car though in the nook and crannies. These cars weren't built to the nearly water tight tolerances late model vehicles were built. I have to account for that as well. Putting foam in the rockers and areas such as that is asking for trouble with this car. Those areas are designed by the factory to handle water run-off. I have to keep them clear of such things that can trap water/moisture and promote future rust. I have gone to great lengths and expense to, not only, remove rust from this car, but to avoid it in the future.

This car will have a very nice sound system in it. However, it will probably not win any high level audio competitions and I'm ok with that. I must keep weight down as best I can and the sound deadening I have chosen to do to this car will be the extent of what will be done. I also will be spraying the underside of the vehicle and inside the trunk with a product called U-Pol Raptor. It is a sprayable truck bed liner that is quite popular in the restoration world.

I certainly appreciate your advice and I, in no way, wish you or anyone to not give me any when you see an area I might could use some. It takes a great deal of planning and thought to build a car to this degree, so I am open for others to help out in the advice department. Thank you very much for all your advice and don't stop. Just realize this car is being purposely built and it's not being built for car audio competition


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> 39. But I've quite literally been a "car guy" since I was 3. No joke.
> 
> 
> Jay


You and I are the same age. You are, certainly, old enough to have experienced carburetors. I don't know your full experience with them, but you are definitely old enough to remember them on new vehicles.

I went back and forth on which system to run. It all came down to a budget decision in the end. I had an entire car to build from scratch, basically, so I cut corners where I could. I am satisfied with my sticking to carburetor decision. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them and I know of a great many of very competitive muscle cars that use them in the area my car is being built to compete with. Carbs make more power than injection and that has been proven time and time again. Carbs are a dark mystery to many these days, but they are rather simple to work with and they do what they are designed to do very well.

The only thing injection can offer me is easier tunability, but at a great expense. A proper injection needs a proper fuel delivery system. You can just add an external pump, but that pump will not last very long as it will over heat. You also have to deal with fuel starvation issues. All of these can be remedied by a $1500 fuel tank. This particular fuel tank I speak of has been designed to over come the issues many faced through the years with adding injection to a former carb'd car. It is a recently new product to the market. Not to mention, the best computer system is around $2500. Then there is the intake system costs. That would be around $1000. As you can see, I would be looking at around $5000 to get a fuel injection system to do what my carb'd system already does and does very well. Are there cheaper systems out there? Yes. Will those cheaper systems perform to my expectations or to the degree I would need them to? Not at all. 

That's why a carb is on my car and not fuel injection


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

Jeb,

At the risk of starting a flame war between injection versus carburetor, the decision for us came clear one day early in our build when my wife's minivan wouldn't start. It turned over just fine, the accessories worked, but nothing. It was at that point I found myself somewhat lost as what to tackle first on a modern computer driven car. All the basics checked out and still nothing.

Cost is not trivial in converting to a modern injection project. As you pointed out, fuel delivery is only a piece of the equation. There's the modified radiator, computer, typically a computer controlled transmission, and the hope of getting all the gauges to work can be a stretch for most. Many have done it and done it very well. Pro-Touring has literally hundreds of them. There can be savings or hassles in swaps and pull-a-parts. For us, simple and clean was the call of order. A carburetor fit the bill. Heck, we are still using the Edelbrock I bought at 15 when I first started wrenching on this car. It starts first time, everything without pumping the gas.











Your project looks great! Keep up the fabulous work! As for our project, we should be getting final paint this week. I hope... Then we can start finish our audio install. Here is the shot from a recent car show our body shop took the car while I was traveling on business.






















jebcamaro said:


> ...The only thing injection can offer me is easier tunability, but at a great expense. A proper injection needs a proper fuel delivery system. You can just add an external pump, but that pump will not last very long as it will over heat. You also have to deal with fuel starvation issues. All of these can be remedied by a $1500 fuel tank. This particular fuel tank I speak of has been designed to over come the issues many faced through the years with adding injection to a former carb'd car. It is a recently new product to the market. Not to mention, the best computer system is around $2500. Then there is the intake system costs. That would be around $1000. As you can see, I would be looking at around $5000 to get a fuel injection system to do what my carb'd system already does and does very well. Are there cheaper systems out there? Yes. Will those cheaper systems perform to my expectations or to the degree I would need them to? Not at all.
> 
> That's why a carb is on my car and not fuel injection


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

modified radiator? computer controlled trans? gauges? None of those have anything to do with fuel injection. The trans is computer controlled on some models, like the newer 4l80e, but if you want to run those you can get standalone controllers. Cheap, nope...

As for the radiator and gauges I have no clue what you are referring to there. Unless you are trying to utilize factory gauges, but few people attempt that. 

My only beef with fuel injection is cost. It really hasn't come down at all, they are still too expensive for an aftermarket setup. The irony is for the cost of most aftermarket setups, I could get a complete running junkyard LQ4 or LQ9, throw a cam in it and maybe some new springs and have a 500hp, fuel injected setup. Oh well.

Oh, and this all comes from a guy who has a custom built Pro-Systems carb by the way  The cost of my carb was way cheaper than any FI I could get.


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

You are right... I should have drank my coffee first! I had a full on LS3 conversion on the brain using a hacked harness and tying the steam ports for the heads into the radiator.




pocket5s said:


> modified radiator? computer controlled trans? gauges? None of those have anything to do with fuel injection. The trans is computer controlled on some models, like the newer 4l80e, but if you want to run those you can get standalone controllers. Cheap, nope...
> 
> As for the radiator and gauges I have no clue what you are referring to there. Unless you are trying to utilize factory gauges, but few people attempt that.
> 
> ...


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## pocket5s (Jan 6, 2012)

Now that makes more sense!

For the life of me I couldn't figure out how the radiator played into it at all


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Car is looking great Doug!!

FI is definitely a large expense over carburetor with little added benefits to justify such cost. Choosing FI is a huge step rather than just a decision to be taken lightly, for sure.

On a side note, I am running an electronic transmission with a carb'd motor. I'm running a fully built 4L60E trans with a Baumann standalone computer system to control it. I will also be incorporating TwistMachine's paddle shifter

As for as gauges, I just recently purchased the new Dakota Digital VHX series gauges. They are awesome gauges with tons of options.


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## zupper (Mar 11, 2012)

hello very good job 
but your pics is too ... small ;-)


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks...just click on the picture and it will enlarge


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm going to bring this thread back to life...

I haven't made a great deal of progress on the car as of late. I have been battling fender to door and trunk lid fitment issues. I just can't get them all to fit to my liking. This is holding me up from getting to paint this car and get it done. However, I have gotten them to fit within an acceptable fitment. I'm a perfectionist, so that has caused my recent frustrations when dealing with a nearly 50 year old car. These cars just weren't built to the same standards modern vehicles where. I have to accept that!!!

I have been recently thinking about my sound system. Most particularly my sub stage. With my front stage, I don't think my plans with the simple CDT 8"s will blend very well. I am rethinking it and am wanting to build an infinite baffle setup.

I want to do a single subwoofer powered off of my JL Audio 500/1 amp. I am not into SPL at all. SQ is my game, so I don't need huge output with multiple subs. I'm really, though, perplexed as to which sub to go with. I have narrowed them down to the JL Audio 12w6v2, 13w6v2, 12w7ae, 13w7ae or an IDMAX 12. Which would I like best? I am a classic rock listener.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I got all giddy thinking you had updated this. Lol
I would much rather have SQ over SPL. I am using a 10w3 with around 500w and for what I like it works perfectly. An added bonus is the small enclosure needed.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice project, should be a stunning car when it's all done. 

My dad and I are doing a 67 camaro too. LSx 454, t56, pro touring suspension, new floor, rear quarters, doors, roof, shaved firewall...


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Kellyo77 said:


> I got all giddy thinking you had updated this. Lol
> I would much rather have SQ over SPL. I am using a 10w3 with around 500w and for what I like it works perfectly. An added bonus is the small enclosure needed.


I'm disappointed in not being able to bring much of an update myself! I will be making some new updates very soon and this car WILL be on the road in just a few short months. I would love to have it at the F-Body Shootout this May. It could be done, but would be a stretch. We'll see


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> Nice project, should be a stunning car when it's all done.
> 
> My dad and I are doing a 67 camaro too. LSx 454, t56, pro touring suspension, new floor, rear quarters, doors, roof, shaved firewall...


Very nice build you got going there! Have you been able to fit the hood over that intake? Last person I saw try to fit that intake wasn't able to make it happen.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

jebcamaro said:


> Very nice build you got going there! Have you been able to fit the hood over that intake? Last person I saw try to fit that intake wasn't able to make it happen.


The front subframe we are using drops the engine 2" lower than stock, but we still hit the frame of the hood. Got plans to fix that issue though. We're welders/fabricators and have access to lasers, press brakes and mills.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> The front subframe we are using drops the engine 2" lower than stock, but we still hit the frame of the hood. Got plans to fix that issue though. We're welders/fabricators and have access to lasers, press brakes and mills.


Well that definitely helps. I'd like to see your finished product. I love that motor. I wish I had gone that route, but I had a nearly complete gen I sbc so I put that together for this build. Maybe done the road I'll switch to the dark side

You guys have access to a bead roller? I have some ideas running around in my head and can't find anyone around here skilled enough to handle what I want done.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

jebcamaro said:


> Well that definitely helps. I'd like to see your finished product. I love that motor. I wish I had gone that route, but I had a nearly complete gen I sbc so I put that together for this build. Maybe done the road I'll switch to the dark side
> 
> You guys have access to a bead roller? I have some ideas running around in my head and can't find anyone around here skilled enough to handle what I want done.


I know a couple guys that might have one. I'll make some calls next week and let you know.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Jfreak said:


> I know a couple guys that might have one. I'll make some calls next week and let you know.


Awesome! Thanks man


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

Just read the build front to back. Awesome work!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

customtronic said:


> Just read the build front to back. Awesome work!


Thanks! It's been a labor of love and it keeps my pockets empty


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Ar you wanting to use an enclosure, or is Infinite Baffle a possibility? I've heard a 13W7 mounted that way, and it was great.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I don't want to do an enclosure. The trunk on these cars are not very big and I also want to keep it as light as possible. Enclosures are quite heavy. I would love to do a 13w7 or 6. It would be tough to fit one in there though


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Well I can tell you my 12W7 is easily one of the best subwoofers I've ever used. And I like it in a sealed enclosure. So IB could definitely be a possibility.


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## Jfreak (Dec 20, 2012)

Made some calls today and one guy is out of business and sold his roller, and the only other guy I know that would be skilled enough doesn't have one. Sorry man


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks! I probably do not need to get into anymore fabrication at this time anyway. I need to get this car done at this point.


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## mojozoom (Feb 11, 2012)

Don't be afraid to grab the door and give it a mighty TWIST if needed to improve edge alignment. Sometimes thats the only way, and doors are more compliant than you'd expect.

Or is it a gap issue that's giving you trouble?

This thing looks awesome.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

holy crap how did i miss this thread lol 

those enclosures for the anarchys look awesome by the way. have you listened to them sealed? i only have mine IB, i have not tried sealed as i dont know how i would get them to fit.

anyway - being that you have all that skill and you are talking about your substage - im sorry i am late - why dont you insert and angled baffle out of steel and cut the rear deck and Y braces out? insert some tube for reinforcement and put a pair of 15's in there?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

req said:


> holy crap how did i miss this thread lol
> 
> those enclosures for the anarchys look awesome by the way. have you listened to them sealed? i only have mine IB, i have not tried sealed as i dont know how i would get them to fit.
> 
> anyway - being that you have all that skill and you are talking about your substage - im sorry i am late - why dont you insert and angled baffle out of steel and cut the rear deck and Y braces out? insert some tube for reinforcement and put a pair of 15's in there?


I hear what your saying, or read what your saying I have briefly considered that, but quickly dismissed it as I did not want to cut away too much of the original car. Even though I have no plans to ever sell it, but you never know what tomorrow brings. I have to think about the marketability of the car and I feel cutting that original structure away could create resell issues. 

I have listened to the Anarchy's in their enclosures and let me say they...ROCKED! Even to the point I considered not bothering with a substage. They sounded that good. And that was in an empty car with no sound deadening or interior installed in the car. I have changed things up a bit, though. I sold off the CDT ES-02's. They are phenomenal drivers, but they just didn't have that sparkle I like in a tweeter. I have since purchased a pair of CDT ES-04 for the midrange and the HD-1A for the tweeter stage. With the addition to the es-04, which is really a 4.5" speaker, I have no idea where I'm going to mount the tweeter, but once it all comes in I'll try and figure it out.

Thanks for your compliments. Stay tuned as things will be progressing here soon. My work is busy right now, but I'm hoping to have this car on the road by July. I'm going to work on the stereo install this weekend and will hopefully have the 4.5" installed in the kicks, next to the Anarchy's. They will be installed in a sealed enclosure as well.

One thing to note is a I am installing a XS Power 3400 series battery in the trunk over the rear axle and I have a JL Audio 450/4, 300/2 and 500/1 to install back there as well. I want to keep all this extra weight directly over the axle and not aft the axle. As you can see, I have went through extensive expense and trouble to make this car handle like a modern sports car. Weight and where I put that weight are major factors.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

understood!

i would cut it, but im crazy though :biggrinflip:

hehehe


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I just can't make myself do it


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## Reyne (May 18, 2010)

Awesome build mate.I know exactly what you are going through with the panel gaps. I was battling with my 67 gaps backwards and fowards for to long before i decided to have break from the car when my son was born. I decided to do the welding rod down the edges method, but even that is still a decieving ammount of work. Anyway, keep up the great work.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Reyne said:


> Awesome build mate.I know exactly what you are going through with the panel gaps. I was battling with my 67 gaps backwards and fowards for to long before i decided to have break from the car when my son was born. I decided to do the welding rod down the edges method, but even that is still a decieving ammount of work. Anyway, keep up the great work.


Thanks Reyne! It's not really the gaps that are causing the problems for me. I can't seem to get all the body lines to line up together. I am getting good gaps. I will have to do a little welding to them, but I won't have to weld on any rod, thankfully. I have a guy coming by that is going to get this part of the build taken care of for me, so I can get some paint on her


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## Reyne (May 18, 2010)

Yeah getting a bit of help in difficult areas keeps them moving foward. I work in a body shop so will probably get help with lines and gaps. Ive been painting fulltime for 25 years so i really want to get past the body work and into the fun (paint) stage


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I've enjoyed this build till I got into the bodywork stage. Bodywork is not my forte'. I am so ready to spray some paint and get this car finished


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## Voorttimies (Mar 19, 2011)

Awesome build. Just read through the whole thread. I love old muscle cars and I really like it that someone is willing to put this much time, money and effort into getting one of these old beauties back on the road. Even better when there's some decent ICE installed.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I just had a concrete turn-around poured last week. It's been gravel since I built my house 11 years ago. This is the first time I've been able to pull my car out of the garage on all 4 wheels in years. I thought I'd share


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## pickup1 (May 6, 2008)

Sweet,can't wait to see it finished..


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

pickup1 said:


> Sweet,can't wait to see it finished..


You're not the only one...Thanks though


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

jebcamaro said:


> You're not the only one...Thanks though


Yea... But are they ever REALLY finished? Looks great!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

dougchambers said:


> Yea... But are they ever REALLY finished? Looks great!


Thanks!

Yeah, I don't ever see the light at the end of the tunnel to ever say it's 'finished.' However, it would be nice to see color on it and look like a complete car and drive like a complete car

How's yours coming along? Ever get a new headunit?


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

jebcamaro said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah, I don't ever see the light at the end of the tunnel to ever say it's 'finished.' However, it would be nice to see color on it and look like a complete car and drive like a complete car
> 
> How's yours coming along? Ever get a new headunit?


Making progress. Found an original '71 AM/FM HU that I refurbished and wired the light to the key. Nice set of NOS knobs and it looks great.

For the HU, I built a bracket for the glove box and felted it in black. Ran a remote IR repeater to the glove box and hid the receiver at the nose of the center console. The HU is a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597. Nice little. Not the Pioneer 80PRS that I was thinking about, but it will work. Dialing in the setup this weekend.

The car is coming along. Chased a few issues with the power steering and suspension for over a month. Still working through an electrical gremlin that can't get figured out. Our 1-wire PowerMaster 140A alternator isn't keeping the battery fully charged when the twin Spal fans are running. I just ran a dedicated 1/0 power wire direct to the battery and matching ground wire to the shell of the alternator. it's better, but still not quite right.

Made it to our first show with the car and got second in class. Got graded down for a few cleaning issues I wasn't prepared for. Wasn't expecting anyone to look on top of the mufflers or behind the engine mounts. Just inexperience on my part. The winner was a great car..


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

dougchambers said:


> Making progress. Found an original '71 AM/FM HU that I refurbished and wired the light to the key. Nice set of NOS knobs and it looks great.
> 
> For the HU, I built a bracket for the glove box and felted it in black. Ran a remote IR repeater to the glove box and hid the receiver at the nose of the center console. The HU is a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597. Nice little. Not the Pioneer 80PRS that I was thinking about, but it will work. Dialing in the setup this weekend.
> 
> ...


Car is looking great! Bet it's nice to have it near the almost finished stage


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## mpednault (Mar 23, 2012)

After reading your posts in the Exodus Anarchy thread I felt it necessary to seek out your build thread and I'm very glad I did! Nice work!!!

My very first car was a '69 with a straight 6 "Iron Duke" 250cid with a 2 barrel and 3 speed auto shifter on the column. It was a plain Jane car. My dad and I tore out the motor which hadn't run for decades and wouldn't turn over. We poured Marvel Mystery oil down each cylinder and let it sit for a weekend. Came back to a fully free spinning engine! Got it back in the car the following weekend and had it running! The car needed all four corners repaired from fender benders and was missing a few trim pieces and the front grille.

Anyhow, I have VERY fond memories of that car since it was the first time my dad an I worked on a car, let alone an engine. I was only 16 and didn't even have my license yet! I didn't get my license until I was 17 and my dad had sold the car before I got to LEGALLY drive it on the road. My wife would like to build a car with me. I used to like the looks of the '69s but as I've aged the '67s look smoother to me. The '68s just don't do it for me for some reason.

Anyhow, I'll be following your build and it is inspiring me to seek out a carcass to rebuild!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I am finally getting time to get back out and work on my project car, so thought I'd share some updates. I'm back working on my console build and I got the a/c vent holes cut into my dash. 

The 67 Camaro didn't come with factory holes in the dash unless it was optioned with factory air. Mine wasn't, so I had to make a template off a car that was. The hole is elliptical, so it is difficult to get right without a template.

I have been through 5 sets of different gauges for this car. I am settling for my fifth option. They are custom made gauges that I ordered 8 days ago. I'm still waiting for them to be shipped. Meanwhile, I started making a gauge pod in my custom console to accept the 5 gauges that will eventually find home there.

Here's my progress thus far


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

mpednault said:


> After reading your posts in the Exodus Anarchy thread I felt it necessary to seek out your build thread and I'm very glad I did! Nice work!!!
> 
> My very first car was a '69 with a straight 6 "Iron Duke" 250cid with a 2 barrel and 3 speed auto shifter on the column. It was a plain Jane car. My dad and I tore out the motor which hadn't run for decades and wouldn't turn over. We poured Marvel Mystery oil down each cylinder and let it sit for a weekend. Came back to a fully free spinning engine! Got it back in the car the following weekend and had it running! The car needed all four corners repaired from fender benders and was missing a few trim pieces and the front grille.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much! I love these old cars.

If you have the patience and the coin, then most definitely get you a car to build. Some advice, buy one in the best shape you can afford. However, don't take the sellers word for it's condition. Learn the cars and their problem areas before you find one to purchase.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Finished the gauge panel today. Turned out pretty good.


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## dougchambers (Mar 16, 2010)

Looks great!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

dougchambers said:


> Looks great!


Thanks Doug


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

My gauges finally showed up and I quickly mocked them up. I'm still waiting for the trans temp gauge to ship. That will complete my gauges.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

New update!

After working and working on building my rotisserie, I finally finished it! I had a difficult time getting Center-of-Gravity. It's done now, though. 

It's downhill from here. The car build will start moving rather quickly from here on out.

Thanks for looking


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

jebcamaro said:


> New update!
> 
> After working and working on building my rotisserie, I finally finished it! I had a difficult time getting Center-of-Gravity. It's done now, though.
> 
> ...


 That looks great.Good job on the rotisserie stand.Have you decided on color options? I know front start of build to finish color options could always change.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks man!

Yeah, I've bounced around between a couple different colors through the build. The original color of the car is red with black interior and I was set on red for a long time. However, I have had blue in the back of my mind the whole time, so it's going to be blue. I recently purchased all the paint for it, so no more flip-flopping now


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I've been finalizing all the welding needed to be done to the shell of my car. Part of that was finishing the install of the stereo system. In a few days, I'll be spraying the tinted U-Pol Raptor liner on the bottom of the car. That will conclude work on the bottom of the car. I'll also be cleaning up the inside of the car and priming it. All seams on bottom and inside will be seam sealed.

It's been a long journey to get to this point. Things are finally starting to progress a lot quicker now. Although, at times, it's still difficult to see much results. Fabrication takes time to design, tweak and execute.

The pictures are poor, but you can see what is going on. The pictures are not upside down, the car is You can see a battery tray I fabricated to mount my XS Power D3400 battery over the center of the axle in the trunk. Also, an amp rack to mount my JL Audio 450/4 and 300/2.

I lined the inside of the outer cowl area that is behind the kick panel enclosures with Dynamat Xtreme. I then lined the inside of the kick panel enclosures and welded them into their final destination in the kicks. I also lined the inside of the midrange speaker area as well. This concludes the audio system fabrication.

I still have not been able to determine an ideal way to pass speaker wires into the midbass enclosures to electrify the midbass. I'm open to suggestions there! I have to fabricate kick panels to cover the kick area. They have to be thin. Meaning, they can't stick out much further than the speakers themselves. There's a parking brake and headlight dimmer switch that are in close proximity. It's these reasons I'm having a difficult time where to run the speaker wires into the midbass enclosures. 

Also, thought I'd throw in a couple other pictures for fun. One is my new daily


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Congrats on the daily as it is truly a beautiful truck. What did this replace if you don't mind me asking ?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks! My previous truck was a 99 Silverado that I bought new. It was time for a new truck. However, this truck isn't new. I found it with only 7500 miles on it. It's a 2010 model truck. It still has the new car smell


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

So many manufacturers stick speakers where they can fit, but you sure fixed that with some sheet metal fabrication and welding. Very nice. Hope to see this some day in person. It's one of my favorite classics.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks schmiddr! It won't be much longer. I've worked out all the kinks from all the different aftermarket parts going into this build and have finished all the fab work. I'm, now, on the verge of doing finish body work and then onto paint and reassembly. She'll come out of her cocoon this Spring at the latest!


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

You can't go wrong with the classics... Now I am anxious to see the finished product, and I just saw it for the first time a few minutes ago. I can only imagine how much satisfaction you will get out of it soon.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

It's looking awesome! Great work on the console, gauge pod, kicks, and trunk!  Love the revamped rotisserie, too.

Stoked!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks guys! It's taking way longer than I anticipated to get to this stage. If everything works out right, then I don't see any reason why I can't have paint on this car by Christmas or shortly thereafter. 

I had access to a paint booth, but that shop closed down. My alternate plan was to just paint it in my garage, which that is fine by itself. However, I can't control the temperature in my garage as well as in a paint booth. Paint doesn't like to stick to cold metal, so I'm trying to figure out how to keep heat in the garage while spraying.


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## silver6 (Nov 11, 2008)

This car right here is going to DISTROY!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

LOVE the color of that truck.

Good deal on the low mile used truck. My Installer has an '08 All Terrain edition Sierra Extended cab that he found in similar condition and got for nearly half the price of new. 

When this body style came out, I wasn't feeling it, but they've grown on me. I would probably get one of these if I was in the market for a truck. Not feeling the 2014's tho...but who knows what I'll think in a few years.

The Ram's lost me with the stupid rotary shifter they have now. lol

Jay


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I wasn't too keen on this body style truck for a while either, but it grew on me. I do like the 2014 trucks, especially the features they come with.

My truck is fully optioned with the exception of DVD navigation, sunroof and Z71 option. It has everything else. Only thing I dislike about this truck is the Bose system in it. That has got to go, but I have no interest in putting an aftermarket deck in it.

I've always been a GM man, so I've never paid much attention to other makes. However, I do like the Ford Raptor. I just could never own a Ford. GM trucks have proven to me, after decades of owning different ones, they are well built trucks. I never had any problems with any of my trucks. My frist truck was a 88 Toyota 4x4. I got it brand new. I hated that POS truck. I traded it for a new Z71 a few years later and never looked back


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

My GF's dad just retired from the truck plant here a few years ago, and even he said the older trucks (say 73-87 Bodystyle) were crap...mainly the paint quality. He said that they'd get finished an put out in the lot waiting to be shipped and before the trucks even got there to pick them up they'd start to rust. They've come a long way since then.

Jay


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Paint on nearly all makes up to the early 90's was crap. Paint technology has come a long way since then, thankfully. The paint job on my Sierra is pitiful. The clear is very orangepeeled. I'm disappointed in GM for lowering their quality on paint for this model truck. This truck retailed for nearly $50,000 new and one would expect the paint to be flat and shiny.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

The early model Camaro's are a semi-unibody construction, so I added weld-in subframe connectors that tie in the front subframe to the rear frame. These connectors actually cut into the floor pan and are welded down the length of them. This creates a very strong connection. However, the fuel and brake lines crossover them and they protude a little low causing the lines to start to get into harms way. Well, I remedied that problemo


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I have finally completed all the sanding I needed done tonight. I vacuumed and blew out dust from the car 4 times. I vacuumed the floor 3 times and cleaned the garage out.

Now, I'm ready for a busy day tomorrow


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Awesome. Can't wait to see her in color!


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks bb!

I didn't get as far as I had planned. I spent my Saturday wiping the car down several times in wax/grease remover and then masking the car off. Sunday, I finally was able to start laying some paint, but I wasn't able to get the car in high-build primer like I had hoped. Oh well, at least I did get one stage of the priming done. 

The HOK epoxy is a bight lime green. It's kinda cool looking and I'm surprised at how well it shows imperfections. I wasn't expecting it to show things so well. It is a high-build epoxy as well. That is a plus, but it is extremely thick and difficult to spray. I didn't like spraying it.

Tomorrow, I'm going to sand what I primed today, then vacuum the car out again and wipe the entire car down with wax/grease remover again. Once I get that done, then I can get the final primer on the car! Once that dries, I can flip the car over and spray the finish on the bottom of the car. Since I'm spraying tintable truck bed liner on the bottom, which will be tinted blue, same color as the outside will be, I'll have to do the bed liner in two stages. The front and rear wheel wells will be black as well as inside the trunk. I'll have to spray the blue bedliner and then let it setup for about 3 days so I can tape over it and spray the black in the areas mentioned earlier.

Anyway, I'm getting there!


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## sherman_cj (May 2, 2013)

So did this car ever get finished? Or are you still working on it?


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Thanks for asking

I'm still working on it. I'm in the bodywork stage, so progress isn't easily scene as well as the car looks like a calico cat right now so not really photogenic right now. I'll be finalizing the heavy bodywork stage and progressing into the block sanding the final primer stage within a week or two. Once I can get the car to that stage, then I'll post a small update.

She's getting closer to paint though. It will definitely see paint no later than March for sure.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

I want to provide a little bit of an update and what I'm about to do on my build. I had originally planned to do an IB sub setup in the trunk, but couldn't come up with a packaging it all solution in the small trunk the first gen Camaro's have. I eventually got frustrated with that and just purchased a JL Audio 10w6v3 and was going to do a sealed box. However, that solution forced me to keep the battery mounted in the engine compartment. My plan, all along, was to mount the battery over the center of the rear axle in the trunk and so I had many sleepless nights pondering over how to do that and how to use the 10" sub. I eventually just gave up completely on using a sub in this car and fabricated a floating amp mount for the front stage with the battery mounted behind the mount. Well, I started thinking again...

I did more research and measuring on my car. I finally found a solution on how to do an IB setup and keep a good amount of my trunk for storage. What I came up with is to vent the subs into the interior instead of the trunk. This is an arrangement I never considered before. This arrangement allows me to keep the battery where I wanted it, but it opens another can of worms. That is: where to mount the JL Audio Slash series amps. I pondered over this all weekend until today. The trunk of my car is fairly shallow. I was thinking of compromising and mounting the amps to the floor of the trunk and building a false floor. However, this would give me roughly 12" of height from the bottom of the floor to the bottom of the deck lid. The Slash series amps are too large to mount vertical along the quarter panels also. The solution I have come up with is to just sell my brand new 450/4v2 and 300/2v2 and purchase two JL Audio HD900/5's. The HD's can be mounted vertically along the quarter panels. This will allow me to have full height of my trunk space and only give up a little bit of storage width.

I have the shell almost done for the bodywork stage. I have to backtrack and go back and refit my rear suspension, though. I'll have to install the engine and trans as well as the rearend and suspension back into the car. I need to readjust my pinion angle and now is the perfect time. A friend is coming by this coming weekend to help me get this finished this weekend. This will be a perfect time for me to fab up the IB setup and to build all the closeout panels for the trunk.

Stay tuned everyone...


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Also, the subs I have planned for this IB setup are the JBL W12GTI MKII's. There will be two subs used. The lack of processing the HD's have also force me to run an external processor, which I was wanting anyway. This arrangement is going to cost me a lot of money, but I feel it will meet what I was wanting all along.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

jebcamaro said:


> This arrangement is going to cost me a lot of money, but I feel it will meet what I was wanting all along.


Do it the way you really want it the first time, so you don't have to redo it again later. The build is looking great. I've been observing/not commenting throughout the build, but it is awesome to see that you're keeping your sights set on the final product and not settling. Keep it up.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

crx4luke said:


> Do it the way you really want it the first time, so you don't have to redo it again later. The build is looking great. I've been observing/not commenting throughout the build, but it is awesome to see that you're keeping your sights set on the final product and not settling. Keep it up.


Thanks crx!

One of the reasons it has taken me so long on this build is my unwillingness to compromise. Of course, I have done everything on this car by myself, so it takes longer when you have to invent ways to work on something with only two hands when four hands are needed


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Another small update. I finally was able to seal all the bodywork in. Felt like I climbed a mountain to get it there. Now, I need to reassemble the car so I can redial in the rear pinion angle.


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

Well I've got a chevelle me and my father are working on but this blows out of the water. I really want to see how that dash turns out. We went with an SS dash and dakota digitals but yours has sooo much more fabwork. I thought I had it rough having to make a fiberglass console speaker panels but damn.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Deathjunior said:


> Well I've got a chevelle me and my father are working on but this blows out of the water. I really want to see how that dash turns out. We went with an SS dash and dakota digitals but yours has sooo much more fabwork. I thought I had it rough having to make a fiberglass console speaker panels but damn.


Thanks! I've went through several sets of gauges before I settled on the Speedhut gauges that I now have. These, actually, replaced the Dakota Digital VHX series set that I had purchased. I loved those gauges, but they just weren't exactly what I was looking for.

I still have quite a bit of fiberglass work ahead of me. I haven't even begun to really give the glass work much thought. I have to fab up some kick panels, rear seat filler panels and closeout panels for the trunk. I've never even done fiberglass fab work or even been around it, so that should be an interesting venture.

Post up some pics of the Chevelle. I love the old iron


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

I'll get pictures up just as soon as we get it back from the dynoshop. After our last nova build when I was 16 dad sold our engine stand and cherry picker and vowed to never install another engine himself again (its been 8 years) lol. So we had a motor shop install the 6.0 Liter ls2 we got out of a 2006 GTO electronic fuel injection and all. They've had it for what seems like forever (10 months). When it gets back I get to start with the fab work. Probably a fiberglass parcel tray, speaker panels where the floor air vents are, and a new center console for the new hurst shifter since it was an original column shift. Heres how it looked when we picked it up back in 2012 though,


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

Solid looking car there. What do you have planned for it?


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## Deathjunior (Aug 2, 2011)

Well so far the plan is a glove box mounted stereo with a remote control, 6.5 inch components and a sub. I might try to make the center console for the shifter include the subwoofer box. Really not sure, its going to depend if we remove the front bench and switch to buckets or not. I'll have to think about it more when the car gets home. The only for sure thing is that it will have a nicer sound system, eventually changing the blue carpet for black and probably custom trunk floor and amp rack. It's all subject to change though. As it sits the car has been repainted back to factory astro blue with painted on SS stripes and has a GTO LS2 with 6 speed automatic and a new rear end. SSBC front brakes and a brake booster. We debated on vintage air or a universal unit and since the vintage air would've ruined the motors looks were probably going with the universal mount.


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## jebcamaro (Mar 19, 2008)

There's plenty of room in the trunk on those Chevelles. I built enclosures to fit the Exodus Anarchy in the kick panels of my car and I lowpassed them just to see how well they worked playing them as double duty, subs and midbasses and they sounded perfect. They lacked that punch you in the chest kinda bass, however the bass was not absent at all.


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