# RedAggie03's 1992 Nissan Hardbody Extended Cab Truck



## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I'm building the truck and setting up the audio at the same time, so I need some help with planning and makeing wise decisions. This was my Dad's truck that he bought new and it has very low miles so I should get a lot of life out of it. It sat outside its whole life so the paint was shot. 

First thing, make it pretty. Here is what I started with.





































Nice clean body, straight, hardly any door dings, and ZERO rust! :thumb:

Two week after I brought the truck home, my neighbor backing into it  :

























It had the old square dash and I found the newer style so I did a full interior swap:










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Here is a video of the whole swap that I made...Pretty cool time lapse video

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Next was to update the styling a bit, and get the body ready for paint:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

The truck has been in the shop for just over a week now. I will let the pictures do the talking. I'm pretty happy with the results so far and I think the end product will be better than I'm expecting.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

While the truck was in the shop, I started on my audio plans and built a box. This may not be the box I use long term because I want to build a custom fiberglass enclosure, but for now it will work and it's a cool conversation starter.

What's this? Just a crappy case of Miller Light sitting in the extended cab, no reason to break in and steal that...










Wait, what's this??










 Down firing 8". In this picture, I am using the stock sub out of my TL, but I bought a ID8v3 D4 for it and will install it when it arrives!










I bought a bulk pack of Second Skin with the tools I need to install....Not sure if damper pro alone is going to be enough, but I don't think I want to spend any more money on it at this point. Maybe stage 2 I'll add more. Open for suggestions in this area.










I also just picked up a pair of PPI PC275's for the amp duties.










I still need to pick a set of 6.5" components. I'd love some high end untis, but I think I'm going to go with Polk db6501's for now. They are shallow and will fit easily behind my door panels and won't hit the glass. I'm open for suggestions still on this one.










I'll post more as I move along. The truck should be out of the paint booth in 3 weeks, so I'm focusing on gathering my audio equipment to install when I get it back.


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## odj23 (Jul 13, 2010)

RedAggie03 said:


> What's this? Just a crappy case of Miller Light sitting in the extended cab, no reason to break in and steal that...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:laugh: That's just frickin' awesome.


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## oldturd (Oct 31, 2009)

That sub box is quite possibly the most innovative thing to ever happen to car audio. I couldn't love it more if I tried!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Brilliant!!!


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Truly one of a kind enclosure. Mikey likey.


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## kustomkaraudio (Jun 20, 2009)

Cool enclosure. But you know whats kind of silly , is that there are low lifes out there that might break in for case of beer !!!


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## 87FoRunner (Jan 7, 2011)

You should interchange beer boxes every so often.


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

kustomkaraudio said:


> Cool enclosure. But you know whats kind of silly , is that there are low lifes out there that might break in for case of beer !!!


Exactly what I was thinking. Maybe disguise it as a book. That should keep them away!!! Good job so far...


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## leepersc (Sep 23, 2009)

Absolutely f-ing awesome! I love the old school truck as well! Fine work my man!!!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Wow, thanks everyone for the compliments! The cool thing is that any 24 pack of bottles can be used, so I have 3 right now that I switch between every so often...I'll post pictures later. It turns out to be a great size too, it's about .47^3 ft of airspace which is on the large size for a sealed box for my ID8 (.45 is their recommendation). So I will add about 1/2 a pound of polyfill and it should sound great for a cheap little box until I get a custom fiberglass enclosure built.

I went to the shop yesterday to drop off some more parts and they are doing an amazing job on the body of the truck. I told them it didn't have to be perfect and my guy said "well, we're here doing it, so we're going to do it right" so they have spent a lot of extra (but free) time blocking it etc...so the final product would be great. I'm excited.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I love the old school hardbody, what is the final color going to be. Also love the beer box enclosure, I wonder if you could cover the box in resin to make it permanent and not get worn. I am building my box as a clone of my spare tire in my blazer, love sneaky stealth installs.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Navy Chief said:


> I love the old school hardbody, what is the final color going to be. Also love the beer box enclosure, I wonder if you could cover the box in resin to make it permanent and not get worn. I am building my box as a clone of my spare tire in my blazer, love sneaky stealth installs.


It's going to be the factory dark gray color. I didn't want to respray the jams etc. I am doing a multi-stage on it though, so it should pop pretty nice.

No need to resin the box, just drink another case of beer and throw a new cover on it! :laugh:


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I like this truck a lot. My Dad used to be the service manager for a Nissan dealer and I was always around these trucks. Nice choice of amps BTW. I just sold my PC275 on here about 2 months ago.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Whoa! Looking really nice! TO be honest, I am much more intrigued by restorations/builds on "run-of-the-mill" cars than I am by rare collectibles. I don't know why, I just am. 

And consider me a fan of that sub box as well. :thumbsup:

Looking forward to updates!


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## jsun_g (Jun 12, 2008)

Sub'd. That box is the coolest thing I've seen in a looooong time. You could replace it with an even worse beer like Natural Light to lessen the chance of somebody breaking in


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## langlowe (Oct 11, 2010)

Be carefull if you ever good pulled over. Policeman would probably get a good laugh though.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

No update on the paint yet, but I did make a simple stereo diagram. I have all of the equipment ready to be installed except for the wiring and small items.










** EDIT: Correction, I will be using Image Dynamics CTX65CS Components (updated picture).


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## PottersField (Mar 18, 2011)

I'm not sure how big the amps are but if you're looking for ideas for mounting, I recommend looking toward the jump seat cavity. I helped my brother in law put a stereo in his 96 and we used the space behind the jump seat - we used the passenger side but if I remember right there's a driver side jumper as well. We actually removed the padding so it was just the "door" and when it was closed you'd never know there was an amp in there. Did this in my old S10 as well, makes for a very stealth install and in my opinion it's better than under-seat mounting where the amps are exposed to snow and mud and anything else that gets dragged in on your feet.


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

RedAggie03 said:


> No update on the paint yet, but I did make a simple stereo diagram. I have all of the equipment ready to be installed except for the wiring and small items.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice, clean, simple. I like it.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Mr. T. said:


> I'm not sure how big the amps are but if you're looking for ideas for mounting, I recommend looking toward the jump seat cavity. I helped my brother in law put a stereo in his 96 and we used the space behind the jump seat - we used the passenger side but if I remember right there's a driver side jumper as well. We actually removed the padding so it was just the "door" and when it was closed you'd never know there was an amp in there. Did this in my old S10 as well, makes for a very stealth install and in my opinion it's better than under-seat mounting where the amps are exposed to snow and mud and anything else that gets dragged in on your feet.


Yes, that is exactly my plan...I started taking the seat apart and couldn't really tell if I could keep the door without the seat. I would like to do that and then do a nice fiberglass amp rack behind the door. The amps will fit in the cavity (tight) but I think it will work. Do you have any pictures or more details you can share with me on how you did this?


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## PottersField (Mar 18, 2011)

It's been a couple years since we did it but if my memory serves the trim panel has its own hinge. Can't post pics yet (not enough posts) but go here to see a schematic of the jumper assembly:

1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup (1995-1997) Rear Seat - 8801036


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## Afronaut (Apr 27, 2010)

Subscribed!!!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Afronaut said:


> Subscribed!!!


Thanks, it's coming out of the shop next week, so there should be some updates soon!


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## Yankeesound (Jul 11, 2009)

Nice install, also if you use the huggie pampers boxes (big ones from costco) would look good too. Overall, I am down for more pics


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Yankeesound said:


> Nice install, also if you use the huggie pampers boxes (big ones from costco) would look good too. Overall, I am down for more pics


I will have new pictures soon...Body shop called and said it's painted. Just needs color sanding, rear window (switching out to solid window vs. slider), tint, and Line-x in the bed. Hopefully I will have it back by the end of the week.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's a link to a similar one over on Car Audio Magazine. Just for some ideas if you need some. I don't particularly care for the color but the install is great! 

Nissan SQ Truck


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## ryomanx (Feb 18, 2011)

I. LOVE. THE. BOX!!


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## [email protected] (Feb 24, 2011)

Subscribed, I've always wanted a Nissan hardbody! It's hard to find a clean one here in the midwest though!


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Cool build....I remember being in my early teens living in College Station when the hardbody and mazda b series trucks were the popular mini truck choices...In Memphis now but wearing a aTm shirt as we speak lol...


Keep up the good work!

Jeremy


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

love these nissan pickups. used to have a 94 a few years back, ended up rusting the undercarrige out because my brother\parents never took care of it, but it was a champion if regular maintenance would have been done it could have lasted twice as long. it was somewher around 250k miles when the break lines rusted off haha.

northern winters + salted roads = bad for cars. keep up the good work. i really like the truck.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

I want one of thoes trucks


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

*BIG UPDATE!!* The truck is painted!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

A few more










Pathy power (and heat!) mirrors painted to match:









Are those not the factory fenders? BS! Look at the nice sealer work and the inside painted like the factory...Quality work right there! But yes, they are OEM Pathy fenders I swapped before paint. I'm VERY happy with the work.









Underside of the hood painted like OEM. Ignore the dusty engine, I'll get there.









Super straight, no dents at all, and soooo glossy!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nice! You must be ecstatic!


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Fackin beaut that is!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I spent a little time last night cleaning the engine bay and installing my battery terminals in prep for the audio system. I also installed my 4-note Caddy horns (evil grin).

First I installed the horns:

Horn #1











Horn #2











Horn #3 will be tucked in nicely behind the bumper











Horn #4, also tucked in nicely behind the bumper











Then I started cleaning...Ugh, what I pain. The engine bay had not been TOUCHED in 20 years! I started with the inner fenders. I’m going to focus more on the motor when I do the intake swap and timing chain.

Right side cleaned up:











Left side cleaned up, battery re-installed, and new + terminal installed.











close up of the KnuKonceptz terminal











Other shots:


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing more. I love the D21's.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Well, I'm still deciding how / where to mount my amps. I'll take advice if anyone wants to share. I was thinking of installing them in the drivers side rear jump seat area in the extended cab. I would love to come up with a pimpy fiberglassed rack for them.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

This truck will not be bagged / body dropped or anything like that...I'm restoring it to factory condition (or better) and adding Nissan Titan wheels and a stereo system.

Actually, a LOT like Keith Turners HB that scooter posted: Nissan SQ Truck - Daily Drivers - Car Audio and Electronics


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

RedAggie03 said:


> This truck will not be bagged / body dropped or anything like that...I'm restoring it to factory condition (or better) and adding Nissan Titan wheels and a stereo system.
> 
> Actually, a LOT like Keith Turners HB that scooter posted: Nissan SQ Truck - Daily Drivers - Car Audio and Electronics


I really like that install as well which is why I posted it for you. I think it's a perfect fit for you, in that it's completely stealth, with the seat on, and if you did it where you either downfired the sub, or built a box where there was a gap between the bottom of the seat and the box, similar to a vent or port, you would never notice that there was anything in there walking by. Are the two PPI amps the only amps you're gonna run? 

You're not doing anything to it other than to restore it so why lead on to the fact that theres even something in there? If you're only using those two amps, and a single sub, I say BACK SEAT FTW!! I think in Keith's build he has the back seat completely removable, if I'm seeing it correctly, so if you were to show it off, then it's completely viewable. You could fiberglass the whole thing, same as he did, and have it painted to match the body color so that it appears to be factory. 

But that's just my $.02! I'm gonna go look at his build again. You could even probably upgrade to an ID 10 if you wanted to as well. Just a thought. Keep it up man, nice work!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Yes, I am just going to have the two amps. I'm just going to run front speakers and the 8" sub. I think it will be plenty for such a small truck. I was thinking of no bench and hiding it all behind the doors for the jump seats. Then it would really look factory. Fiberglass them in behind the doors...I guess I didn't say that. The sub box would still show, but my Miller Light box will throw them off  haha.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Also, where can I get pollyfill locally? and how much should I get for my .45 cu ft box?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You can get it from any fabric store. It's the stuff they put in pillows etc. I'm not sure on the specs of it though, maybe someone else can chime in on that. Do you even need it? .45 cu ft seems pretty good on an 8" sub. What do the specs call for on the air space?


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

RedAggie03 said:


> Also, where can I get pollyfill locally? and how much should I get for my .45 cu ft box?




Try Walmart, and start with 1/2 pound.....truck looks nice


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## ryomanx (Feb 18, 2011)

scooter99 said:


> You can get it from any fabric store. It's the stuff they put in pillows etc. I'm not sure on the specs of it though, maybe someone else can chime in on that. Do you even need it? .45 cu ft seems pretty good on an 8" sub. What do the specs call for on the air space?





trojan fan said:


> Try Walmart, and start with 1/2 pound.....truck looks nice





RedAggie03 said:


> Also, where can I get pollyfill locally? and how much should I get for my .45 cu ft box?


look for the bag with the teddy bears on it!  they gave their lives so that we could have smooth bass!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> You can get it from any fabric store. It's the stuff they put in pillows etc. I'm not sure on the specs of it though, maybe someone else can chime in on that. Do you even need it? .45 cu ft seems pretty good on an 8" sub. What do the specs call for on the air space?



I'm putting an ID8v3D4 in the box. The airspace is about right, a tad big actually.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

if it's big already I wound't put any polyfill in it. That would make the sub think it's in an even bigger enclosure. If it's bigger than what it's supposed to be already, I'd think about lining it with some anti fatigue mat or something like that. It would deaden the inside of the box, as well as take up some of the space that makes the enclosure too big. Just my opinion but I've done this in the past and it's helped in my situations.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

RedAggie03 said:


> This truck will not be bagged / body dropped or anything like that...I'm restoring it to factory condition (or better) and adding Nissan Titan wheels and a stereo system.
> 
> Actually, a LOT like Keith Turners HB that scooter posted: Nissan SQ Truck - Daily Drivers - Car Audio and Electronics


I think thoes trucks look amazing with a slight drop and some titian rims










I really want to build one with a SR20DET


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Yup, I have Titans sitting in the garage! I went with the 6-spoke versions.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

OK, Update! I fixed my Miller Light box and I'm much happier with it now. It's .43 cuft. which is PERFECT for the ID8v3. 

The box was a little too big before (.65 cuft), probably didn't matter, but I didn't like the feet I had made. So I lowered the sub mounting surface into the box a bit deeper and made side 'vents':










Wired up the sub...it's a DVC 4 ohm, so I will be running it in 8 ohms:










Sub wired and installed in the box:










Miller Light box cover installed. I can change this to any 24 pack of bottles 










Now I'm just waiting for my amp to arrive. I will start wiring and installing my SecondSkin soon!!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I guess I can update the status of the exterior and interior updates too after working on the truck this weekend. Got the front end done, the interior installed, changed the oil, filled the transmission fluid, and polished it up some.














































(used to be square dash)

I also got the windows tinted


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Coming along nicely. What size wire are you using for the sub? That looks huge!!! I'm sure it's just retrospect from the sub size and close up but it looks like 8 ga to me or even bigger than that. Can't wait to see you get some more done here. She's turning out purrrrdy! Nice job!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

yeah, it's big...It's 12 ga karma ss from KnuKonceptz


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## thesplash94 (Mar 22, 2011)

Now that. . . is a good looking truck.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

thesplash94 said:


> Now that. . . is a good looking truck.


Thanks


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Eagerly awaiting pics of it on Titans...looks great so far!

Jay


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

JayinMI said:


> Eagerly awaiting pics of it on Titans...looks great so far!
> 
> Jay


Agreed


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## Nitelife (Oct 6, 2010)

I'm getting a kick out of the sub enclosure...classic.

I'm glad you repainted it the same color it came in; Nissan had a great grey pearl on their cars in the early 90's. My 92 SER is Graphite Grey Pearl and looks similar if not the same.










As another said, throw a SR20DET in there and it will be truly impressive.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

It's a 92 so I'm sure it probably is Graphite Grey Pearl. I have been meaning to look up the name of the color code. I am getting married in March 2012, so I can't blow a bunch of money on the truck right now, so I spend a little bit each month...so progress is slow and I still don't have tires for the Titans yet  They are bored out and ready to go on though. My amplifier is supposed to arrive today, so I will be working on installing that tonight. Stay tuned for some pictures!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I sold my PPI amplifiers in favor of a smaller Alpine that I can fit under the seat and run everything off of one amp. Here is the updated diagram:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Started applying my Second Skin to the floor tonight. First time trying this, so am I doing ok? Are the smaller sheets better or the large sheet like on the drivers side? I keep reading complete coverage is a waste and it turns out, a lot harder to install!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I also installed my power cable for my amp that comes in the mail today. I'm using KnuKonceptz wire, terminals, and RCA's.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I setup a PhotoBucket album for my build. You can see ALL the pictures and videos here:

1992 Nissan Hardbody pictures by RedAggie03 - Photobucket


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Well, the amp is installed and it works! I am going to have to figure something out though because that little ID8v3 will move my box! I thouhght I was going to be able to sit it in the back, but I'm going to have to figure out how to bolt it down I think.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Try some heavy duty industrial grade velcro or small L brackets


lets get-r-done


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i was going to suggest the same thing, i was just beaten to the punch. if you had the rear seat bolts, (that is, if they were mounted in the truck, not the doors), use 2 L brackets and mount them using original points so as not to put new unnecessary holes in your nice looking truck


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

trying PhotoBucket...hopefully these are not too big...

Got the amp installed yesterday. It works and it's all coming together!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

MY RCA cable is too long because I was origionally going to install two amps and put them farther back in the truck. Will it hurt anything to just coil the excess up behind the radio or should I get a shorter cable?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

RedAggie03 said:


> MY RCA cable is too long because I was origionally going to install two amps and put them farther back in the truck. Will it hurt anything to just coil the excess up behind the radio or should I get a shorter cable?


It won't hurt a thing.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

RedAggie03 said:


> MY RCA cable is too long because I was origionally going to install two amps and put them farther back in the truck. Will it hurt anything to just coil the excess up behind the radio or should I get a shorter cable?




If you have room coil it up behind the headunit


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I would also like some feedback on my installation of my SecondSkin...Too much or too little? Solid sheets vs. smaller squares like I have done? It is a lot easier to install in smaller squares!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I think it's fine. It really depends on what kind of sound you're going for. If you're going for true sound quality, my understanding from reading around on here is the more dampener the better cause it's going to make the surrounding area quieter and therefore bring the music to the forefront instead of rattles and road noise. But if you're just going for less road noise and rattles just because, I'd say you're doing fine. It's a matter of preference really. What's it sound like now vs. before? Another thing you might do is, and actually it's a little late for that now, but for future reference, in my experience I drove around for a day with all my interior panels off and then deadened stuff and drove around with the panels off after that. Sounded night and day better. 

Then you can put some on the backs of your panels, and put new clips on before you put the panels back on. Sometimes with the interior panels you'll break clips and they'll get to a point, if they don't break, where they just aren't as tight. That will cause rattles as well. 

Again, it's really just a matter of preference and what you're after. Hope that helps.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

OK, cool thanks - I think I'm just going for a bit of improvement. By no means am I going with a super high end setup, but I'm also not dropping my truck of at Best Buy for their $99 special. So I think this will help...I guess I can always add more...


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice build! I'm envious of your truck. I've been looking around for one but they seem to be at a premium these days.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

cnut334 said:


> Nice build! I'm envious of your truck. I've been looking around for one but they seem to be at a premium these days.


Thanks, it has been a lot of work to get this truck back into good shape. I know it will be awesome when I'm totally done with it though. Plus they are good long-lasting trucks. I'm really enjoying the build, I just wish I had more time. I can't wait to get home and install my components and finish the SecondSkin install so I can put the interior back together. It's slow going though with work and travel...


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Ugh, I'm starting to hate this site...I'm starting to learn more and now I'm tempted to throw a miniDSP into the mix and run active on the fronts. I'm still not clear how to do a 2.1 hardware wise...Do I need two 2x4's? Do I even need a DSP on my sub? I have no tuning tools at this point, am I wasting my time or can I just set it flat and have basically no DSP until I can get it tuned?

Ugh, I just need to log off and install what I have!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

RedAggie03 said:


> Ugh, I'm starting to hate this site...I'm starting to learn more and now I'm tempted to throw a miniDSP into the mix and run active on the fronts. I'm still not clear how to do a 2.1 hardware wise...Do I need two 2x4's? Do I even need a DSP on my sub? I have no tuning tools at this point, am I wasting my time or can I just set it flat and have basically no DSP until I can get it tuned?
> 
> Ugh, I just need to log off and install what I have!



You're really over thinking this simple build, get what you have installed and listen to it for awhile then step back and make some changes if need be....you seem to be going in a lot of different directions, just focus on whats in front of you and get-r-done


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I agree with Trojan. I'm a big victim of this. I get half way through and see something better and stop to do something else. Get what you have now done, then listen to it for a while. If you feel you want to change it, make changes then. But this way you finish your current project and move up from there. 

Course if you're like me, you may have made up your mind already. But trust me you'll regret it if you stop what you're doing now, and then start something new. You'll play the "what if" mind game with yourself and you'll never know. 

Good luck with it!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Yeah...Thanks. I alway want to go from 0 to 100 in 1 step...That just doesn't happen. I honestly think I should be very happy with my setup once I have time to finish the install.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

**** UPDATES! ****

Ok, went out and took some pictures. Nothing amazing, just progress.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)




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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Ok, I had a very busy day! I went over to Jasper tools today to pickup my circle jig to make speaker rings with (PM me if you need any!) so I can mount my 6.5" components in the door. I also picked up some 22 ga. aluminum to fill the holes in the doors before covering the skin with Second Skin. Should sound nice once it's done. 

I also got a call from Discount Tire to tell me my tires arrived, so I went over there to pick them up. I ran out of day light for good pics, so crappy cell phone pics for tonight. Better ones tomorrow...






































The tires are 245/45/18 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's. I'm very happy with the size and fit. If I was bagged they would probably be too big, but that's not happening to this truck, so I like how they fill the wheel well a bit. 

Discount Tire managed to sheer off one of my lugs with their impact gun happiness. So I had the pleasure of changing that out when I got home. I'll post my step by step guide to replacing your wheel studs soon.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Made some progress yesterday on my component install. I'm putting Image Dynamic CTX65CS components in the door and the tweeters on the a-pillar behind pathy grills.

Here is how the door started after I removed the plastic and cleaned off all the goop using WD-40.









Next, I started installing SecondSkin inside the door (the inside of the outter shell). Behind the speaker:









More higher up









Another view









Inside on the left side









Another shot









Now I started working on sealing the doors up. This helps with sound quality and helps the speaker. I used 22 ga metal to make these panels and the secured them with sheet metal screws so I could get them out if I need to service the door in the future.









Two of the big holes covered.









All 3 big holes covered! :nana2:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Now I started applying the SecondSkin to the face of the door. This should make everything very solid!









I also went to the hardware store and bought a longer bolt that holds the window track in the front and spaced it back with some washers (I used 8 washers). I used electrical tape to hold them in place while I installed them. This *easily* gave me another 1/4" behind the speaker. The window still works the same.









Here is my plunge router and my circle jig from Jasper Tools :thumb:









Speaker ring cut and installed. I used 3/4 MDF for this first run. It's too thick and I will be re-doing this with 1/2" MDF and coating them before installation to keep moisture away. I also need change the outter diameter so it works better witht he door panel. 









Close up of the ring I made.









Here you can see the wires run. I used KnuKoncepts 12 ga wire.









That's all I have for now. I love how solid the door is now...it feels like a luxary car now. I am a little ticked about the speaker rings not coming out perfect the first time, but hey...I'm not perfect.

*Right now the truck is at All Out Off Road getting a spray in bed liner!!*


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Nice to see you're back at it again....looks good

keep us updated

Was I the one who told you about pushing the windows out some


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

trojan fan said:


> Nice to see you're back at it again....looks good
> 
> keep us updated
> 
> Was I the one who told you about pushing the windows out some


Thanks. I'm still trying to figure out if I should make the OD of my rings the same as the speaker so it sticks out through the door panel, or if I should make the OD larger and make a 'step' in the ring just below the speaker so it looks level with the panel. Hopefully the panel will not buldge too much. 

What else can I do?


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

Loving this build. Keep up the good work.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

can you mount the speakers on the outside of the door card and use the ID grills...you can also paint the grills to blend in with the door card


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## Nitelife (Oct 6, 2010)

I'm really enjoying this project of yours. It's motivating me to work on my own car. Those PDX's are perfect under the seats.


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## owen19 (Oct 21, 2009)

nice truck and lovin the sub box!


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice work!


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Good to see the old Nissan getting some respect. Subscribed, and great work so far!


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## Cali_Screw (Aug 26, 2008)

Truck is coming together nicely!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

*UPDATE!*

So it's done! Finally. I have the components installed, doors sealed and Second Skin'd, and the truck back together. 

*--> I have questions on basic tuning though. For my components, how should I set the xover on my amp? Off or high? What frequency should I cross over at? Right now, I have it wide open (like 14 khz?) - should I turn it down?*

Here are some in pictures!


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## Thumper88 (Dec 1, 2006)

Awesome box, who needs suede or vinyl....beer boxes. :lol:

Time lapse video of dash is really cool.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Thanks, Just a reminder to the pro's out there...I have a question 

For my components, how should I set the xover on my amp? Off or high? What frequency should I cross over at? Right now, I have it wide open (like 14 khz?) - should I turn it down?


There is more than pretty pictures


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

It looks like you are using passive crossovers, so leave the amp on full-range. If the amp has a HPF that can be set in the 40 to 80 Hz range, you may want to activate it to protect the mids (aka woofers) from overextending. They won't make much sound that low anyway.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice work


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Excellent work! Nice bike, too


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> It looks like you are using passive crossovers, so leave the amp on full-range. If the amp has a HPF that can be set in the 40 to 80 Hz range, you may want to activate it to protect the mids (aka woofers) from overextending. They won't make much sound that low anyway.


Here are my knobs and switches (well, not MY actual ones...so ignore how they are set in this picture). Channel 1/2 is my components and 3/4 is my sub. I'm not sure how to set the crossover knob at the top right.


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

I like it! 
One of my favorite trucks a few years ago.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

RedAggie03 said:


> Here are my knobs and switches (well, not MY actual ones...so ignore how they are set in this picture). Channel 1/2 is my components and 3/4 is my sub. I'm not sure how to set the crossover knob at the top right.


You want to set the filter on channel 1/2 to high pass (HPF) which will prevent any frequencies _below_ the specified frequency from being sent to the speakers. For example, if you set the crossover point at 100hz, all frequencies _above_ 100hz will be sent to the speakers, where all below will be blocked. Frequencies below 100hz can be sent to the subwoofer by setting channels 3/4 on low pass (LPF) and setting the crossover at 100hz, which means all frequencies _below_ 100hz are sent to the sub, and all above are blocked.

100hz is a pretty good starting point, actually. If you want a bit more bass up front, you can turn back the channel 1/2 crossover to 80hz or so. It's pretty much experimentation from here on out! Tweak the X-overs till you are happy!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

That helps a lot. Thanks tibug.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Yes, like tibug said. Use the HPF setting on the switch. For setting your xover frequency you want to set it about the same as any low-pass filter on the sub.

Another way of doing it is turn your music up to a reasonable thump, turn the sub off, and then starting with the HPF at the lowest possible setting (looks like 20 or 30 Hz in this case) turn it up gradually until any buzzing/rattling or other unpleasant sounds disappear from the mids. Listen for whooshing, blatty sounds, and watch for the cone moving on low notes you can't actually hear. Eliminate all that, and then adjust the sub to fill in the gap. I usually end up with the HPF between 60 and 90 Hz for a typical setup.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

This is what I'm thinking it will look like roughly after I mess with it tonight. See anything wildly wrong? I'm pushing a little extra gain on the sub because the amp is a little weak @ only 200w bridged so my sub is getting washed out by my comps. I know not the ideal situation, but it will have to work until I get a PDX 4.150.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

RedAggie03 said:


> This is what I'm thinking it will look like roughly after I mess with it tonight. See anything wildly wrong? I'm pushing a little extra gain on the sub because the amp is a little weak @ only 200w bridged so my sub is getting washed out by my comps. I know not the ideal situation, but it will have to work until I get a PDX 4.150.
> 
> ...image...


Looks fine to me, as long as you're not hearing too much distortion. If the gains are too high, things will sound muddy, you'll have more background noise and harshness. Clipping is evident as the music sounding squashed or unnatural.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Looks fine to me, as long as you're not hearing too much distortion. If the gains are too high, things will sound muddy, you'll have more background noise and harshness. Clipping is evident as the music sounding squashed or unnatural.


On the PDX amps, the gain says "MIN", "NOM", "0.5v" and "MAX"

What is NOM? Nominal? This is where it sounds the best really. I guess it has to do with the HU pre-amp output voltage huh?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Your user manual may shed some light on the subject. I would guess "nom" is short for nominal, which doesn't quite make linguistic sense. Perhaps they want it to match up with a standard head unit - many HUs have a nominal preamp voltage of 1-2 volts, though some are higher as well.

If you can hear where it sounds best, that also means you can also hear distortion at some point. That's reassuring, many people can't...

If you can find a picky audiophile friend (who isn't a wannabe) perhaps invite him over for listening to see if your gains are in the ballpark. I really just do it by ear, it works for me. Perhaps play some tracks on a reference system to learn what they should sound like then listen carefully for the point where distortion becomes noticeable. Playing a silence track and turning the gains down until background noise disappears is also a useful trick.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Your user manual may shed some light on the subject. I would guess "nom" is short for nominal, which doesn't quite make linguistic sense. Perhaps they want it to match up with a standard head unit - many HUs have a nominal preamp voltage of 1-2 volts, though some are higher as well.
> 
> If you can hear where it sounds best, that also means you can also hear distortion at some point. That's reassuring, many people can't...
> 
> If you can find a picky audiophile friend (who isn't a wannabe) perhaps invite him over for listening to see if your gains are in the ballpark. I really just do it by ear, it works for me. Perhaps play some tracks on a reference system to learn what they should sound like then listen carefully for the point where distortion becomes noticeable. Playing a silence track and turning the gains down until background noise disappears is also a useful trick.


Yeah, that was my plan really...step one was to get the base system installed and tune it to the best of my ability. There are lots of guys in Houston, I'm sure someone would like a free lunch one Sunday afternoon 

SouthSyde? SoundJunkie?


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

So I messed with my settings some more and listened to all of the Focal test discs and an older USACi disck I had and I'm pretty happy. The timing could be better, but since I'm running NO processing at the moment, it's ok. I'm happy with the sound and the bulk pack of Second Skin + sealing my doors was worth the effort. The mid bass is real nice and I don't have any rattles. Honestly, I've very happy with my 20 year old truck! For stage 1, it'll do. Now I can learn more and improve on what I have already put together. Thanks everyone for the help. I will be attending the Tx SQ Seminar, but I would love it if I could buy someone lunch before then. PM me if you have some time to kill...


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

If you wanted to drive clear up to Idaho, I'd have a listen and buy YOU a lunch. May not be worth the drive though, none of my vehicles are _nearly_ as complete as yours at the moment. The drive would sure give you plenty of time for listening though!

LOL.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice work on the truck. You have inspired me to get back to my truck and finish my sub up.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> If you wanted to drive clear up to Idaho, I'd have a listen and buy YOU a lunch. May not be worth the drive though, none of my vehicles are _nearly_ as complete as yours at the moment. The drive would sure give you plenty of time for listening though!
> 
> LOL.


haha, thanks for the offer, but I'm not quite sure my little truck is up for a road trip that long! 



cnut334 said:


> Nice work on the truck. You have inspired me to get back to my truck and finish my sub up.


Awesome, I'm tickled to hear my work has inspired someone!  Get ready to spend some serious hours...I have way too much time in mine. I wish I had kept track of the hours....Makes me think of that Volvo C30 build where he logged every hour.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

OH! Does anyone know if the Alpine F4 / F6 has the same mounting hole locations as the PDX line? I'm hoping so that way when I upgrade (anyone have one for sale yet??) I can easily swap them out.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

RedAggie03 said:


> haha, thanks for the offer, but I'm not quite sure my little truck is up for a road trip that long!


Aw, sure it is, it's a Nissan! But yeah, I wouldn't make the drive down either unless I had something else going on in Texas at the same time...



RedAggie03 said:


> Awesome, I'm tickled to hear my work has inspired someone!  Get ready to spend some serious hours...I have way too much time in mine. I wish I had kept track of the hours....Makes me think of that Volvo C30 build where he logged every hour.


I tried logging hours once, they add up quick! Was about 50 hours to do my doors, HU, and wiring in my last truck. Then again I was being slightly perfectionist on that project.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

OH yeah, I have 40 hours in mine just this last weekend I'm sure. Fully deadening (sp?) doors and sealing them is quite a job.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I have to say the only thing I'm not in love with is the volume level of my system...If I crank it all the way to 38 (40 max, but it clips a bit), I'm just not really impressed. It just doesn't have any balls really. My stock TL system is just as loud, maybe even louder. The clairty is better, but not as loud. Thoughts? does it have anything to do with my 2V outputs?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Is it your amps clipping, or your HU? With the volume at 38/40 there's a fair chance it's the HU. Try setting up your gains with the volume at 25-30. The if you want to (read: occasionally) go above that level you can. That is what I would try first.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

RedAggie03 said:


> I have to say the only thing I'm not in love with is the volume level of my system...If I crank it all the way to 38 (40 max, but it clips a bit), I'm just not really impressed. It just doesn't have any balls really. My stock TL system is just as loud, maybe even louder. The clairty is better, but not as loud. Thoughts? does it have anything to do with my 2V outputs?



You need more power, another amp ........you can never have too much power


Imo you should of stayed with the PPI amps


Overall the truck turned out nice


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Is it your amps clipping, or your HU? With the volume at 38/40 there's a fair chance it's the HU. Try setting up your gains with the volume at 25-30. The if you want to (read: occasionally) go above that level you can. That is what I would try first.


Well, I have obviously tried to keep the gains down on my amp, I could easily turn them up. I have them at the nominal level now. It's just hard to tell really how hard I can push before it's too much.

EDIT: I'd obviously like to be running a F6 and a M6, but I have to work within my budget...oh and something that fits under the seat!


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## Broken Wrenches (Aug 4, 2011)

Awesome build, I love seeing older vehicles cleaned up and used. Sounds like that tire shop owes you for a wheel stud install though. That wouldn't fly around here, breaking it and not taking care of it......


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

More coming soon, just picked up a new amp that will be dedicated to my sub so I can bridge my 4.100 and have 200x2 for my components and 600 watts on tap for whatever sub I want to run.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

UPDATES!!

WOW!! What a weekend so far. I worked my tail off and got my interior back together :woot:

First, I needed to run wires for the lights in the visors and the map lights:





































Nicely done...That was easy!










Next I installed my headliner that I recovered last night and re-installed the visors and map light/mirror:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Then I started cleaning and installing the extended cab plastics. I had to re-glue some of the rubber trim before re-installing. I used plastic epoxy, they're not coming off again. :rofl:










Parts cleaned and ready to go in










Uppers installed with above door trim.










Uppers and lowers re-installed 










ALL DONE!! :woot:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Then I started playing with LED's...Amber ones in the corners:




























White LED's in the rear license plate lights:










LED's in the gauges, in the A/C controls, and dome light:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Here is the interior lights with the garage lights off:



















And just as I was wrapping it all up, I got a package! I almost tore into it again, but I decided to save this for next week:










Man I need to get that new carpet now...that old stuff looks so ****ty.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Oh and here are the pictures from redoing the headliner before it went back in:

20 year old gross headliner. Dad smoked in the truck for 10 of those years, so yeah...Needed a new headliner.









Pulled off the old cloth









All off









In process of gluing the new headliner material on. I used Second Skin's headliner spray glue. Cool stuff, seemed to work great. Spray, let tack and stick. Easy enough.









All stuck on. Next, trimming the edges. 









Almost done trimming. Got tired, going to finish trimming and install tomorrow.


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## alabama_lowlife (Sep 14, 2011)

Looking good man, I'm gonna have to post some pics of my weekend's work. Where did you get the LEDs? I want some for mine.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

haha hey man. I get my LED's from v-leds.com or superbrightleds.com


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

How difficult was the headliner to pull? I need to redo mine and I'm contemplating doing it myself.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Notloudenuf said:


> How difficult was the headliner to pull? I need to redo mine and I'm contemplating doing it myself.


I've done it now on my hardbody and on my fiancee's Matrix. It's a bit of a job because you have to take all the visors, hangles, hangers, lights everything off the headliner. Then you have to pull all of the pillars and panels just below the headliner. It can be work especially if you have to remove seat belts and such too.


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## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

Amazing work on that hardbody!!
Its nice to see people keep these as truck's and not cut them up to but airbags in. I do like the mini-truck thing but nothing beats working on a rig that you can drive all year round.

If you lived where I did, you'd be more concerned about getting a case of beer robbed then a subwoofer haha


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Thanks and I think I may be doing a custom fiberglass box in place of one of the jump seats soon. I have a JL 12w3v3 itching to get installed somewhere.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Red...nice to see you are back at it, you signed out for a few months


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

More nice progress from you! The leds look great!!! I was thinking about running a couple of strips inside my truck but haven't decided 100% which route to take. Nice work.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

trojan fan said:


> Red...nice to see you are back at it, you signed out for a few months


I was around, just didn't post much. When I spend time on here I end up spending money...so yeah. But I'm happy to be working on the truck again. I really need to get new carpet, but I'll put that in after I get the 2nd amp installed.



cnut334 said:


> More nice progress from you! The leds look great!!! I was thinking about running a couple of strips inside my truck but haven't decided 100% which route to take. Nice work.


Thanks! I like the stock/retro mod stuff so I like stock lights with upgraded LED technology.


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

I made a "bench" in my extended cab nissan holding four 8's in an isobaric enclosure and carpeted to match the truck. Looked stock to someone not familiar with that model. I would be worried as well about someone breaking in just to get the case of beer, not to mention explaining to the police in the event that you get stopped.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Lorin said:


> I made a "bench" in my extended cab nissan holding four 8's in an isobaric enclosure and carpeted to match the truck. Looked stock to someone not familiar with that model. I would be worried as well about someone breaking in just to get the case of beer, not to mention explaining to the police in the event that you get stopped.


Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd love to see that!!


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## neuspeedescort (Feb 23, 2010)

Lorin said:


> not to mention explaining to the police in the event that you get stopped.


if your 21 and its not an open box it doesn't really matter.

this rebuild/upgrade build is awesome. everything is clean and well put together. i like.


NEUMAN


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

I realize that "having" what appears to be a case isnt illegal, it can still effect the initial response from the individual that has pulled you over. This is merely one of those things that I think about as I get older. 
As to pictures of my Nissan, I no longer have any. That was 3 or 4 vehicles (and at least ten years) ago, but remains one of my favorite installs. I had 13 speakers on 5 amps in that one. I might have actually held on to that vehicle if it wasnt for the accident that totaled it.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Man, I'm still impressed by this truck...I don't see a lot of these trucks, but unfortunately, the ones I do see are either beat up work trucks (no problem there), or are....to put it lightly...'tastelessly' "restored."


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## PottersField (Mar 18, 2011)

tibug said:


> Man, I'm still impressed by this truck...I don't see a lot of these trucks, but unfortunately, the ones I do see are either beat up work trucks (no problem there), or are....to put it lightly...'tastelessly' "restored."


Sadly, even the ones that are taken care of often fall prey to massive rust problems. My brother's '96 has been very well taken care of and from the outside it's the cleanest hardbody I've seen in quite a while. But pull the OEM bed liner and holy rusted metal, Batman! Sadly, the frame snapped a few weeks ago. Poor truck.


But THIS truck, wow. I love it. Especially the "beer bass".


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

PottersField said:


> Sadly, even the ones that are taken care of often fall prey to massive rust problems. My brother's '96 has been very well taken care of and from the outside it's the cleanest hardbody I've seen in quite a while. But pull the OEM bed liner and holy rusted metal, Batman! Sadly, the frame snapped a few weeks ago. Poor truck.
> 
> 
> But THIS truck, wow. I love it. Especially the "beer bass".


I guess that's why when I look on craigslist and ebay, there are almost none of them. I'd love to have one though.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Mine is a Texas truck, my Dad bought it in Dallas...It did have a drop in bed liner, but it was perfect when I pulled it out. I went back with the spray in that you can see above in one of the pictures. I have been through this truck end to end and there is not a speck of rust I'm happy to report. 

My friends give me a hard time about a certain race driving this type of truck, but I don't care - it's a good truck. Yes, I keep it clean and it will stay that way. Yes I do get notes on the windshield asking to buy the truck....well, the most recient one said "Compro la troca - Buy the Truk" yes, Truk, not truck...lol

Thanks for all of the nice comments everyone.


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## Nitelife (Oct 6, 2010)

Great work on this truck. I still say you need to go the extra mile and do something like this:

SR20DET 98 Frontier swap ! - SR20 Forum


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Nitelife said:


> Great work on this truck. I still say you need to go the extra mile and do something like this:
> 
> SR20DET 98 Frontier swap ! - SR20 Forum


There is so much hype around the SR20. I think I would honestly do a SBC, heck, I think I'd even rather turbo the KA24E...I dunno, we'll see.


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

I still have a spot for that model truck as well. I looked around considerably to find one for my son, but nothing I liked. I really like the titan wheels on yours. It keeps the truck looking somewhat stock, but upgraded just the same. Very tastefully done. I would look into making a "fake" jump seat to house a sub. Bet you could put a single 12 in there that would really make that cab move a bit. I considered mounting a sub in the bed with a passthrough on mine, but never did. Have always wanted to try a single 15, have yet to do so. Keep up the good work on the truck.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Lorin said:


> I still have a spot for that model truck as well. I looked around considerably to find one for my son, but nothing I liked. I really like the titan wheels on yours. It keeps the truck looking somewhat stock, but upgraded just the same. Very tastefully done. I would look into making a "fake" jump seat to house a sub. Bet you could put a single 12 in there that would really make that cab move a bit. I considered mounting a sub in the bed with a passthrough on mine, but never did. Have always wanted to try a single 15, have yet to do so. Keep up the good work on the truck.


Well, my idea is to take a stab at fiberglass. I don't think I will every have 4 people in that tiny cab, 3 at most. So I'm going to ditch the driver side jump seat and use that pocket to hold a 12 in a custom fiberglass enclosure. That's the plan at this point, just need to find time to execute.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Ok, Here are the pictures!

First I removed the ECU and tried to lay everything out. The amp could have gone behind the ECU in it's stock location, but I did not want it to stick out behind the seat. So I began figuring out a solution...










I took the mounting bracket off the ECU and figured out that I could turn it around and cut a leg off and it would move the mounting forward and raise/tilt it up so I could fit the wires/connections for the amp under it. This moved the amp forward a good 4-6"

Drilling out the spot welds.










Mock up...










See, the RCA's and the other wires will run under the ECU










I had to make mounting points for the amp so it sat level, but I got side tracked while I was running the new power cable...I could not figure out where to mount my second fuse. I ended up using the ECU cover as a nice engine bay mounting location! I think it came out awesome! 










Yes, eventually I will get the same fuse blocks, but for now this is fine with me.










Here you can see the battery terminals I used as well.










AMP IS MOUNTED and powered up! :nana1:

here you can see the gap between the ECU and the amp...They are tight! Perfect...Now it all fits cleanly under the seat.










Here is my amp on the drivers side...It runs my highs. I will be bridging the channels together today to give my components 200 watts! Yes, I will have to turn the gain down, which is great...Gives me overhead, clean signal, and a cool amp. 










Both amps. The crossover you see on the drivers side behind that amp is well under the seat...So as you can see the amp on the passanger side is even further forward! :thumb:


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Here are some more pictures from today...

Here you can see the wires and the blocks I made to get the amp level...You can also see that I did have to use a few washers in the end to raise the ECU up a touch more. No issues though, I just needed a touch more clearance for the big speaker plug thing that Alpine uses. There is still a good inch of space left all around the amp under the seat.










Here you can see the whole setup. The beer box 8" sub is soon to be replaced with the 12" JL that I pulled out of my TL that is up for sale.










Carpet trimmed...










Sub










Highs amp...4.100 bridged to 200x2 :nana2:

I may go active one day.......hmm...










Here is the amp with the seat installed and moved all the way forward.










Here is the seat in the normal sitting position, actually it was a bit forward in fact. No signs of the amp.










Same on the drivers side, you can see a touch of the passive cross over.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

No comments about the ugly ass carpet...I'm replacing it after the new year.


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## Lorin (May 5, 2011)

Nice, and good attention to detail. anxious to see your sub install. If you go active, maybe you can mount additional equipment on the other side where the jump seat is supposed to go.


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## Complacent_One (Jul 2, 2009)

So I take it you are not having any noise issues caused by the close proximity of your signal connections and the ECU? ECU tends to be about the noisiest appliance in the car these days...


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Complacent_One said:


> So I take it you are not having any noise issues caused by the close proximity of your signal connections and the ECU? ECU tends to be about the noisiest appliance in the car these days...


I don't know if it is the fact that my truck is old and my iPhone is more powerful 'ecu' or if the RCA's I'm using really are shielded well as advertised, but I'm getting zero noise floor. It is completely silent. I'm super shocked too. 

I do have to say though that I'm not impressed with the output of the new amp with the ID 8 that I have. I figured that I'd be turning the gain all the way down and still pushing it hard. I'm just not getting that kind of output. I have it wired to 2 ohms so it should be getting oodles of power, but it's very weak. So I need to figure out what is going on. 

Bridging my comps made a world of difference. I don't have to crank on my HU to get decent output anymore and my midbass is significantly improved. I'm actually able to find rattles in the doors now. So I'm pretty stoked about that. Now I just have to figure out what is going on with the sub.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Updated pictures of the truck. I installed 2" blocks in the rear and did a torsion drop up front. It lasted 24 hours - decided it wasn't my thing. In the pictures it looks great though. I'm glad to say that I tried it low, but after having my last 5 cars lowered I've had enough.


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## raresvintea (Sep 17, 2010)

It looks very good! Good job!


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

It does look awesome lowered, but it looks just as awesome not lowered. A matter of taste. Great pictures!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Put a lift kit on it and call it a day.


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## Bugs78 (May 14, 2010)

RedAggie03 said:


> Updated pictures of the truck. I installed 2" blocks in the rear and did a torsion drop up front. It lasted 24 hours - decided it wasn't my thing. In the pictures it looks great though. I'm glad to say that I tried it low, but after having my last 5 cars lowered I've had enough.
> G]




torsion lowering, although works is bouncy as hell. I hated mine that way too. Not surprised you went back up.. I later swaped out for spindles which GREATLY improved ride. Felt stock and handled awesome. 

Either way, great truck!


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Glad your getting use out of that amp. The truck looks great. I like it alot.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Very nice work on the pickup!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Spent a lot of time over the holidays working on the truck. I got a new Viper alarm for Christmas so I got it installed and it works GREAT! Here is what I've added over the holiday break:

- Viper alarm (I really like the dome light supervision, I can see in my truck at night!)
- power door locks
- passanger side door open sensor switch
- foot well lights for driver & passanger sides (from SE Pathfinder)
- wired power mirrors
- Hella h4 "e-code" headlights and Phillips Vision Plus bulbs
- polished my 1992 grill and installed it (with 97 bumper and new style hood)


























Now I have a cool cut-off like this! I'm very happy with these lights!!










*For any of you with a hardbody, here are the wires you need to connect to get power mirrors to work!*

Here is an overall picture of all of the harnesses that are reviewed in detail below:










*Switch:*
- GRN/BLK, connect to matching wire on passanger AND driver side connector
- GRN/RED, power for mirrors. Connect to a fused 12v source
- GRN/YEL, connect to matching wire on driver side connector
- GRN/WHI, connect to matching wire on driver side connector
- BLU/YEL, connect to matching wire on passanger side connector
- GRN/YEL, connect to matching wire on passanger side connector
- BLK, ground for heated mirrors. Connect to a good ground










*Driver Door Main Plug + Small Plug:*
- GRN/BLK, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- GRN/WHI, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- GRN/YEL, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- BLK, not used. For heated mirrors?
- BLK/WHI, not used. For heated mirrors?
- BLK/YEL, speaker wire
- LT. GRN, speaker wire
- BLK/BLU, not used
- YEL/BRN, not used
- WHI/RED, not used



















*Passanger Door:*
- GRN/YEL, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- BLU/YEL, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- GRN/BLK, power mirror connection. Match color to switch harness connector
- BLK/WHI, not used. For heated mirrors?
- BLK, not used. For heated mirrors?
- BLK/BLU, not used


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## Keith Turner (May 28, 2007)

Man you did a good job on this truck. You got me wishing I still had my truck. Keep up the good work.


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## porscheman (Jan 1, 2012)

I do like the sub "enclosure"


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## Fireseeker (Apr 21, 2008)

Excellent work on the truck!


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Here are more pictures


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Interior stuff:

Passanger foot well light from a Pathfinder SE with LED. This light uses a #74 like the AC controls, luckily I had an extra.










Drivers side foot well light. This uses a 30mm festoon bulb or whatever they are called. I don't have a LED for this one yet, but it's ordered.










I got new handles and rings for the pulls










Junkyard Pathy panels. Need to revive them. They need quite a bit of work, but they are the best I've seen to date in the yard so I grabbed them.


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## crazy88 (May 2, 2012)

very clean install! 

I'm not sure if u mentioned it already, what did ur visors come from?


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

crazy88 said:


> very clean install!
> 
> I'm not sure if u mentioned it already, what did ur visors come from?


They are from a Pathfinder, 1994 I believe. Added the power for the lights.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Ok, I have a bit of an issue/question...

My doors are sealed: 










They are kind of a ***** to close because they don't 'breathe' anymore. so I have to push them shut hard or roll down the window some. 

What's the fix? Should I unseal part of the door the furthest from the 6.5? I can deal with it too, but it's getting annoying. Not sure how much SQ difference I would experience.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

How did you run your power to the visors?


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

They were wired from the factory, I just had to run a switched power source up the pillar to the existing wires in the visors.


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

Anyone? what's the deal with my sealed doors? Why does it make it so hard to shut them and how do I fix?


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Indeed hard to shut now because the cabin is pressurised.
However, in the back of the cab you should still have vents (with one way flaps) that do both depressurise the cabin and also allow for fresh air ventilation. Checked their not sealed/blocked. Otherwise unseal the door, by like you suggested, removing some material furthest away from the driver. But first fix cabin issue,


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## RedAggie03 (Jun 7, 2009)

I know it has the cabin holes, I'll check if they are stuck closed from painting the tuck or something. Thanks!!


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