# cheap and effective deadener CAULK !!



## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

i was tweaking my womans front door speakers the other day, while i had the doors exposed i thought id deaden them a little, but i had no deadener. 

i grabbed a few tubes of regular old painters caulk ($2/tube) smeared it all over the outer skin inside, and any 'noisy' metal i could reach/find.

her toyota martix has always been very road-noisy and generally unpleasant to ride in at freeway speeds.

the caulk has done an *amazing* job of quieting the vehicle.

and i only did the front doors.

time will tell if it falls off (i doubt it the stuff is sticky) but if anyone is looking for a very cheap deadener i can confirm $6 worth of water based painters caulk has about the same effectiveness as $50 worth of real deadener (yes ive used the real/expensive stuff over the years) in a toyota matrix front doors..


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## Kpg2713 (Feb 10, 2008)

No kidding! I used some in doors before, but never just spread it as a deadening layer. I think I may give that a shot on my next project!


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## truckerfte (Jul 30, 2010)

wow, 60 found the answer to the question that ranks right up there with "what is the meaning of life?"

think i might go out and smear some on an old chunk of metal and let it sit out in the sun for a few days and see how it holds up


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## buchaja (Nov 10, 2007)

Very interesting. I was actually wondering about using the silicone stuff before, like aquarium sealer.

I've been putting off deadening because I don't like my vehicle and want to get rid of it. I think I'll try this now before I dump it. It's just too cheap not too!

Thanks.


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## SHOToonz (Sep 18, 2007)

pics?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Was it the white stuff, DAP Alex Plus? I have used the stuff in cars repeatedly, but never expressly as a deadener. Interesting find, may be worth a try. I patched a leaky toilet with it last week, let it cure for two days and it's been holding up so far...


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> Was it the white stuff, DAP Alex Plus? I have used the stuff in cars repeatedly, but never expressly as a deadener. Interesting find, may be worth a try. I patched a leaky toilet with it last week, let it cure for two days and it's been holding up so far...


Remind me not to use that toilet.


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

SHOToonz said:


> pics?


I second this. Does it peal off with just a fingernail?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

BowDown said:


> Remind me not to use that toilet.


LOL. You sometimes have to come up with "creative" ideas when you're renting and don't want to wait around for the landlord...

It was just around the edges of the bolts that hold the tank to the basin, they were rusted solid so I couldn't replace the washers.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

BowDown said:


> I second this. Does it peal off with just a fingernail?


Depends on the fingernail.


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

Ok, a fingernail with black nail polish on it?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

You'll have to test that one for us. :lol:


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

I agree, what kind of caulk was it? Seems like the stiffer/heavier the better, as long as it doesn't separate from the panel over time.


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## S3T (Sep 21, 2008)

Add some sand to the mix, and get extra weight! It can get really heavy, but pretty hard to mess with (mixing it with sand to get homogeneous structure).


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

I might try this in the doors of my work truck. I want to test a batch with steel BB's for added mass.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Now thats what I am talking about!


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

I deaden my GF most nights with my Caulk... Giggiddyy


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

I'm hoping you remembered not to seal up the door drains?


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> I deaden my GF most nights with my Caulk... Giggiddyy


I was waiting for somebody to turn the word into a joke


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

S3T said:


> Add some sand to the mix, and get extra weight! It can get really heavy, but pretty hard to mess with (mixing it with sand to get homogeneous structure).


great idea.


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

cajunner said:


> I'd lay some heavy gauge aluminum foil over it, or even some MLV to provide a constrained layer quality to the work.


not xtra cheep then tho izzit.


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

I did my doors today. I used 2.5 tubes per door and some aluminum sealing tape. The tape is not as thick as I wanted but it will do. I will add more layers over time. I cut up the clear plastic sheet inside the door and used it to smear a thin layer over the metal. I sealed the plastic sheet layer around the edges with tape.


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## matdotcom2000 (Aug 16, 2005)

Thinking about trying this stuff on the door panel


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

got pics of the caulk used name and brand where bought it from?


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

I used DAP ALEX Painters Acrylic Latex Caulk. I paid $1.57 per 10oz. tube at Home Depot. I choose this type only because it was the cheapest. I don't know that it is the best product. I would assume a butyl product would be effective as well.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

HiVi Guy said:


> I did my doors today. I used 2.5 tubes per door and some aluminum sealing tape. The tape is not as thick as I wanted but it will do. I will add more layers over time. I cut up the clear plastic sheet inside the door and used it to smear a thin layer over the metal. I sealed the plastic sheet layer around the edges with tape.





Eggcrate foam, INSIDE OF A DOOR.... for real... 

Soaks up water and rots.... It's open cell foam, not closed cell, meaning it WILL soak up water...


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Eggcrate foam, INSIDE OF A DOOR.... for real...
> 
> Soaks up water and rots.... It's open cell foam, not closed cell, meaning it WILL soak up water...


x2, that foam probably has to come out.


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## Syaoran (Jun 27, 2011)

60ndown said:


> x2, that foam probably has to come out.


It's going to start smelling like eggs... soon. YIKES!





@HiViGuy: Did you notice any differences?


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

cajunner said:


> I'd lay some heavy gauge aluminum foil over it, or even some MLV to provide a constrained layer quality to the work.


A constraining layer will only help if the adhesive is viscoelastic. Caulk wouldn't be.


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## buchaja (Nov 10, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> A constraining layer will only help if the adhesive is viscoelastic. Caulk wouldn't be.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but silicone is viscoelactic, and therefore, 100% silicone caulk would work well as a sound deadener ala 60's method.

Commence with the fake booby jokes, boys ...


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

buchaja said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but silicone is viscoelactic, and therefore, 100% silicone caulk would work well as a sound deadener ala 60's method.
> 
> Commence with the fake booby jokes, boys ...


OK 



cajunner said:


> 100% silicone would remain flexible and therefore have some effect, I don't know how much but just by guessing I would say it would be better than silicone alone by at least 20% in transmission loss.
> 
> Butyl and gooey black stuff that takes years to "dry" to where it has the properties of silicone, naturally win the argument but I wouldn't say a door deadened with silicone and heavy foil is not worth the time or expense in comparison.
> 
> say, 2.60 a tube at your local Big Lots for 100% silicone, 2 tubes to a door and one roll of heavy gauge at 4 bucks for the foil, you're in it for 15 bucks, both doors and enough left over to seal your sub box..


Cured silicone is completely elastic. If painter's caulk works, it is as an extensional damper. An extensional damper doesn't need a constraining layer - it functions completely differently. Silicone might be more durable but should be much less effective than the stiffer and less elastic caulks. Purely elastic materials return almost all of the energy they receive. 

Caulk dries. Covering it with something that prevents that means it ill never dry. Green Glue is a viscoelastic damping caulk, usually used between layers of sheet rock. They act as constraining layers, substrate and constraining layer, however you want to look at it. At least one of the layers needs to be air permeable for the same reason.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

cajunner said:


> I thought about that, silicone once exposed to air will cure, and remain flexible for many years.
> 
> silicone will probably not function solely as an extensional damper if it retains a modulus of elasticity above that of caulk, which hardens and just becomes dead weight, not deadener.
> 
> ...


I don't understand your fascination with silicone. Extensional dampers work because they resist deformation of the substrate. Really good ones do more than that, but that's the key function. Pure elasticity does nothing for vibration damping. 

If you add a sufficiently dense layer of anything - lead, foil, MLV, it will function as a barrier but its effectiveness will be reduced by the elastic carrier. Silicone won't work as an extensional damper BECAUSE it is flexible. It also won't work with a constraining layer because it's not viscoelastic. Butyl formulated for CLD usage won't work without a constraining layer. Maybe that's the piece you are missing?


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

huh??? so what works


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

use this lol


Review: Cheap noise and heat insulation - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

808Munkyeee said:


> huh??? so what works


Who knows? Painters caulk makes more sense than silicone. It's actually quite similar to the liquid and paste products out there. It doesn't have the anti-corrosion and performance enhancing additives they have. Durability may be a problem. I used to live in a house where one of the sinks was caulked with painter's caulk in a half-assed effort to make it presentable for sale. Didn't hold up to water at all. That could certainly be an issue in a door.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

808Munkyeee said:


> use this lol
> 
> 
> Review: Cheap noise and heat insulation - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra





> The material is very similar to dynamat. It is about 1/8 inch thick foam with a foil layer on top of it.


That's nothing like Dynamat of course, but it's not a bad idea for thermal insulation. I've used plain radiant barrier in the CCF/MLV barrier stack for the same purpose. Neither is going to do much for noise.


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## buchaja (Nov 10, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> Who knows? Painters caulk makes more sense than silicone. It's actually quite similar to the liquid and paste products out there. It doesn't have the anti-corrosion and performance enhancing additives they have. Durability may be a problem. I used to live in a house where one of the sinks was caulked with painter's caulk in a half-assed effort to make it presentable for sale. Didn't hold up to water at all. That could certainly be an issue in a door.


Who knows? If anyone does it should be you!

You're very good at talking above my head. "Extensional deadener"? What does that mean? 

So silicone is _purely_ elastic and returns any energy absorbed and therefore isn't a good deadener. OK, I follow that much. So, what the hell does the term _*visoelactic*_mean?

Viscosity is resistance to flow. Elasitcity is "springiness", or the ability to return to original shape once deformed. What's the marriage of the two mean?

So, silicone is too springy. 

I've got a tube of DAP "Acrylic Latex Caulk plus Silicone" on my desk right now. Says it has a 35 year durability guarantee, indoor/outdoor use, mold and mildew resistant, waterproof, permanently flexible, etc.

Seriously, you go to great effort at studying automobile sound deadening, put up (at least a couple) web sites explaining your experiments and findings, start a business based on it, and then based on one experience with some inferior caulk job on a sink you start shooting down this thread?

I've scaped crappy caulk off sinks and showers. That doesn't mean there isn't superior stuff out there that will hold up well for a long time.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

cajunner said:


> I thought about that, silicone once exposed to air will cure, and remain flexible for many years.
> 
> silicone will probably not function solely as an extensional damper if it retains a modulus of elasticity *above* that of caulk, which hardens and just becomes dead weight, not deadener.
> 
> ...


Which weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead? How about a sand-silicone mixture?

Why are we talking about modulus of elasticity? Does that make steel a good deadener? E = 29 x 10^6 ksi, that's pretty high...

One last question, who said silicone ≠ caulk? Caulk can be anywhere from 0 to 100% silicone. And most caulk remains somewhat flexible when cured, by design.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

PS, anyone try flubber yet?


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> Who knows? Painters caulk makes more sense than silicone. It's actually quite similar to the liquid and paste products out there. It doesn't have the anti-corrosion and performance enhancing additives they have. Durability may be a problem. I used to live in a house where one of the sinks was caulked with painter's caulk in a half-assed effort to make it presentable for sale. Didn't hold up to water at all. That could certainly be an issue in a door.


like everything else caulk has evolved a lot in the last few years. ive used a water based caulk around the bath where i live, its been in there a year, 2 kids and 2 adults use that bathroom every day and the caulk is holding up perfect, not even any sign of discoloration.

a few years ago id have expected the caulk to be showing many issues in a year of heavy use .


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Yeah I trust the DAP stuff to be waterproof once it's cured.


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> Eggcrate foam, INSIDE OF A DOOR.... for real...
> 
> Soaks up water and rots.... It's open cell foam, not closed cell, meaning it WILL soak up water...


Yes, I am well aware of what open cell foam is. This was just a Saturday experiment and is in no way meant to be a permanent solution so there is not any need for emoticons or caps. Additionally, this is a work/shop truck and it is already a smelly piece of crap from hauling industrial machinery parts. Cats have pissed all inside the cab and the interior is already moldy from the drivers side window being stuck down for a while. The previous owner was a smoker so the inside reeked before I got the truck. Although, I appreciate the concern. 

@Syaoran,

It did make a noticeable difference. Road noise and rattles were reduced significantly. My midbass driver sounds fuller in all aspects as well. I am quite pleased with the results, thank you for asking.


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

I build custom saltwater aquariums and use silicone of all different types. It might be easier to remove depending on what kind you use. Might not be so easy for the industrial silicone like Dow Corning 999, which is some sticky stuff. However, it smells like vinegar for a few days which is why I did not use it in the first place. Silicone also has the tendency peel if the surface is not prepped well. Some silicone also gets pretty hard, hard enough to hold 300 pounds of water with a 1/8 inch bead, but still flexible which is key to it's tensile strength. I don't think I would use silicone for dampening purposes.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

cajunner said:


> deadener doesn't have to work perfect but you're not getting caulk off where later on you can remove silicone.
> 
> Caulk gets hard, it's like glue and I wouldn't use it *ever* to put on an automotive surface that might need reworking later on. Not even your 35 year, silicone-added product. The 50 year 100% silicone is all I'd even attempt a cheap added mass/CLD home-brew with, due to it's removal qualities.


You're talking to a professional glazier, bro. Caulk is a broad category of products. Dow Corning 795, for instance, does not get hard, if it did it could not function as a building sealant. Not that I seriously endorse using it in a car, it's at least $100-$150 a case.

EDIT: more like $20/sausage if you aren't buying bulk...


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

buchaja said:


> Who knows? If anyone does it should be you!
> 
> You're very good at talking above my head. "Extensional deadener"? What does that mean?
> 
> ...


I'm not sure how I'm shooting this down? I explained why painters caulk made more sense than silicone for this application. It's possible that some silicone added will improve things but I was reacting to the idea that pure silicone will make a superior vibration damper because it makes a superior caulk. I was also responding to the idea that adding a constraining layer to an extensional damper will improve its performance.

Viscoelasticity combines the material properties you described for viscosity and elasticity. It's what makes constrained layer dampers work. A purely viscous material just flows - change its shape and it stays that way. A purely elastic material will immediately rebound to its original shape. A viscoelastic material will deform and rebound more slowly than it deformed as internal friction slows it down. The friction creates heat. In a constrained layer damper, vibration deforms the adhesive. As it returns to stasis, internal strains and strains between the substrate and constraining layer convert the energy that entered as vibration into a small amount of heat.

I don't know because I'm not a big fan of liquid applied products. Some of them work very well but they require 100% coverage. The highest quality products can not be removed. That's a problem in my opinion. I share a building with a body shop. They've come to me twice for advice on how to remove aftermarket products. The first was multiple layers of CLD covering an entire outer door skin. When I showed them how to remove it they decided it would be less expensive to replace the panel. The second was a quarter panel covered with a sprayed on extensional damper that couldn't be removed. Again, replace the sheet metal. That was enough for me to give up on a year's worth of work on a liquid product for SPL applications. It's also why I'm against gluing anything to sheet metal that doesn't absolutely need to glued - that and too much experience removing things I shouldn't have glued down in the first place.

All of that said, I realize some people will be very happy to control sheet metal resonance for a few dollars and don't care about the potential for future problems. I posted because people were mixing apples and oranges and heading for more expensive and less effective solutions. Putting some salt on your dinner will make it taste better. The mistake is concluding that an all salt dinner would be the perfect meal.


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

sheesch, 

some of you guys need to relax, 

its a quick n dirty option for someone that doesnt have $180 to spend on real deadener but wants quieter doors/vehicle.

if the right caulk was used, mixed with sand, and applied correctly, based on my results, im reasonably confident it would compare to the best deadening products available today,

at 5% the cost.

find a soda can or some scrap metal, wrap it with real deadener, then wrap another can/metal with some caulk, hear for yourself.


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Watch the expiration date on silicone... Or is it caulk? Lol. 
If it's close to or past it's date, it may never cure/harden! GE II is known for this issue.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Machine7 said:


> Watch the expiration date on silicone... Or is it caulk? Lol.
> If it's close to or past it's date, it may never cure/harden! GE II is known for this issue.


Learned that one the hard way.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

Rudeboy said:


> Putting some salt on your dinner will make it taste better. The mistake is concluding that an all salt dinner would be the perfect meal.


I like this.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

cajunner said:


> ...and when I say 'caulk' 99% of people who know what caulk is and what it's used for, will agree that it gets hard, and is like glue because that's what the common caulking agent does.
> 
> Is it going to get hard and qualify as an adhesive in this application the OP suggests?
> 
> I'd say so, because the overwhelming percentage of caulking products found at your local hardware store are made the same and the few products that are not, or either prohibitively expensive as you point out, or they are made of 100% silicone ingredients, which does not harden and stays flexible. It's still caulk, but I wouldn't tell someone to buy caulk and expect them to come back from the store with 100% silicone product unless specifically told to do so.


You have a fair point, but unless you specify the exact brand and type of caulk, I don't think you could have any reasonable expectation of the person getting the right thing. It's like asking for a dog and expecting the person to know you want a lab. Profession aside, you're throwing polyurethane, acrylic, latex, silicone, butyl, and various combinations of the above into a single category and then claiming 99% of people know what you're talking about. I'm just suggesting a bit more clarity could benefit those not in the know, and I doubt they comprise only 1%.

Now if you said building adhesive (liquid nails) acts like glue and gets hard... well yeah, it does. But saying caulk is like glue is a bit silly. Glue is generally applied in liquid form, and gets very hard. It often soaks into both surfaces and forms a chemical bond between them. Caulk is applied in a semi-liquid form, usually as gap filler and may get somewhat stiff, but it *has* to maintain some flexibility or it will crack and fail.

I think we can agree on this: nearly all will do _something_ in this context, some will be better than others, all will be messy, and most will be difficult to remove.

I'm just bustin' your chops man, no angst here...


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

cajunner said:


> ...but you have to concede the point that using caulk in a deadener app is going to be limited in success...


Did anyone contradict this?



cajunner said:


> ...and the degree to which it will be hard to remove exponentially greater than that of 100% silicone...


Generally, perhaps. Most of it comes off with a razor blade though, silicone or otherwise.



cajunner said:


> ...so if you're going to recommend this technique...


Well, I don't, honestly. Acknowledging it could work is far different from endorsing.



cajunner said:


> ...then at least see the validity in promoting the use of something easier to take off at a later date, rather than using something that it takes an extreme amount of effort to remove...


Valid point, except as Rudeboy pointed out silicone is too elastic to do what you think it will. If you're just wanting added mass, sure, anything will work if you use enough of it. Also, silicone on a properly prepared surface is not as easy to remove as you suggest.



cajunner said:


> ...I can see why Rudeboy doesn't like to see the promotion of cheap deadening solutions on the forum but calling into question how little effectiveness you're going to get out of it by using big words and definitions, won't stop the progress of people trying it and having good things to say...


I think he's making valid observations based on known characteristics of materials, and you're hardly one to talk about using big words.



cajunner said:


> ...and really, if it works even 50% as good as using mat or tiles, at 10% of the cost it's a good option...


Sure, so try it and report back, will ya?


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

what brands caulk and tube you guys used post pics? i only seen one.


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

It is obviously not the best solution but it can work within reasonable expectations. 

I have one door with caulk, plastic layer, and few layers of metal foil. The other door is stock. Needless to say, the caulk door is quieter. It even has a solid feel when I shut the door.

It is effective to a degree, but definitely not as effective as proper treatment. This was a neat little project.


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## buchaja (Nov 10, 2007)

Rudeboy, I appologize.

I don't think the basic concepts are too much for me to understand, just some of the terminology. In physics classes, I recall that elasticity was contrasted to plasticity. The pertinent example being a rubber ball, which bounces back when thrown against a hard surface because it is elastic and returns absorbed energy, and a clump of clay which deforms and sits there because it is high in plasticity and absorbs the energy - turns it to heat.

So, I was dead wrong about silicone, and now I see why. It would simply sit on the sheat metal and "ring", returning the audible energy we are trying to quell.

I wish there was a way to glue a layer of clay on my car doors outer skin. Anyone know of a caulk made with clay? Probably not, it's just a thought.

Thanks for the lesson, and again, I'm sorry I jumped to conclusions about your motive in this thread. We're all here to learn.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

buchaja said:


> Rudeboy, I appologize.
> 
> I don't think the basic concepts are too much for me to understand, just some of the terminology. In physics classes, I recall that elasticity was contrasted to plasticity. The pertinent example being a rubber ball, which bounces back when thrown against a hard surface because it is elastic and returns absorbed energy, and a clump of clay which deforms and sits there because it is high in plasticity and absorbs the energy - turns it to heat.
> 
> ...


Not a problem. It's wise to be skeptical of claims made for these products. That's what got me started in this. I'm a little sensitive when people suggest that's what I'm doing. I didn't get into this business to get rich, which turns out to have been a good thing.  

OTOH, if you pull enough vehicles apart you'll notice that in areas where resonance problems were found after design or areas where the vibration damper couldn't go through the paint process, the manufactures use butyl/aluminum dampers extensively. They aren't going to spend any money they don't have to. I think it's safe to assume that constrained layer dampers are the most cost effective aftermarket solution. 

There used to be enormous markups in these products. They are close to commodities now. If it was possible to release a high quality product at a much lower price, someone would have done it.That's actually what I thought I was doing  As it turns out, the less expensive products are lower quality. Ignore retail pricing and it's almost a straight line. There are enough knowledgeable consumers in this market to make it impossible for manufacturers to keep people in the dark.

The elasticity/plasticity spectrum is exactly the right way to look at it. Another issue with silicone has already been touched on. I used to use it to seal access hole covers. I haven't found a way to completely remove the silicone from e-coated sheet metal. There are some spots that after 4 years, cutting, scraping and abrading, still have a thin film of the stuff and NOTHING will stick to it.

I wouldn't expect clay to be very effective either. That gets back to the idea of adding mass. That will work when you are trying to move an object's resonant frequency out of a narrow frequency range. The idea that you can lower a door skin's resonant frequency out of the audible range doesn't hold up. You need to quadruple mass to drop one octave. I did the arithmetic once. I don't remember exactly, but something like several hundred pounds required per door outer skin.


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## hottcakes (Jul 14, 2010)

perhaps i bought the wrong stuff, but my vehicle still faintly smells of the stuff and it's been two days. 'tis only the beater, but it has not worked they way i was thinking it would. to the OP, (god i hate acronyms) would you mind specifically stating what it is that you used?


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Really though, a little (or a lot, depending on who you are/talk to) caulk can go a LONG way in terms of noise reduction and isolation... 

I show people this all the time.. a little RTV, squeezed in between the frame and skin of a trunk lid, kills a HUGE issue with trunk lids.. noise from skin to frame contact under pressure.. 

Note, all but what went between the frame and skin was wiped away and later cleaned with adhesive/silicone remover


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

what brand did you use ?


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## gokiburi (Jul 20, 2007)

The caulk is really not that much cheaper, compared to a 25% CLD coverage approach. Do it right or don't do it at all. Besides, the solid thud sound when you close the door doesn't really mean you've done that much to quieten your cabin, I've learned the hard way. Put some CCF/MLV in there while you're at it. Just my 2 cents.


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

gokiburi said:


> The caulk is really not that much cheaper, compared to a 25% CLD coverage approach. Do it right or don't do it at all. Besides, the solid thud sound when you close the door doesn't really mean you've done that much to quieten your cabin, I've learned the hard way. Put some CCF/MLV in there while you're at it. Just my 2 cents.


yes, "quieter cabin" and "deadener" are two different problems, requiring two different approaches. This thread is discussing deadening.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

808Munkyeee said:


> what brand did you use ?


Permitex blue... whatever I had lying around... it's silicone maaaannnn.... :laugh:










(Trunk Monkey acting as the "Foreman" on the jerb..:laugh


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## gokiburi (Jul 20, 2007)

94VG30DE said:


> yes, "quieter cabin" and "deadener" are two different problems, requiring two different approaches. This thread is discussing deadening.


From the OP.
"...the caulk has done an amazing job of quieting the vehicle."


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

i used this stuff

Amazon.com: Dap 18065 ALEX Acrylic Latex Painters Caulk - White 10.1-oz Cartridge (18670): Home Improvement

i smeared it on heavily (2-6mm) with my hand on everything i could reach inside the door (2 tubes per door) = $5 total. 


vehicle is my girlfriends, i ride in it often, its still very quiet (70% quieter) compared to before i did it.

night and day.

the car was painful to ride in and pointless to listen to music before due to road/wind noise.

now its pretty quiet and music can be enjoyed at modest volumes.


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## 808Munkyeee (Jun 6, 2011)

o nahhh post pics man i like see it


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

gokiburi said:


> From the OP.
> "...the caulk has done an amazing job of quieting the vehicle."





60ndown said:


> i used this stuff
> 
> Amazon.com: Dap 18065 ALEX Acrylic Latex Painters Caulk - White 10.1-oz Cartridge (18670): Home Improvement
> 
> ...


Oh now I'm all confused. Seems like that would mean his noise was due to sound transmission through the metal, not through the air... I don't know how wind noise does that


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## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

A question all of this brings me to ask is; What is more important, sound deadening or sound reflection. Yes, mass helps with deadening but the main problem most are looking to solve with deadener is simply metal vibration. For most people all that is needed is some deadener over large flat areas of sheetmetal that are more prone to flexing issues


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