# 2011 BMW 335i



## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

The car is fantastic - quiet, refined, great handling, loads of power, but the factory audio is less than satisfactory. Turbocharged inline 6 cylinder 3.0 liter engine. 0-60 in 5 seconds is pretty good for such a big car.

First step was to replace the factory drivers. BMW uses the following setup - tweeters in the sail panels, a 4" midrange in middle of the door, and a shallow mount 8" woofer underneath the 2 front seats. My friend James (SublimeZ) was kind enough to lend his garage and help me with the install.

For the tweeters, a pair of blank sail panels were glassed to accept Morel Piccolos.


For the midranges, I used HAT L4SEs:




There are not many options for the 8" woofer due to the very shallow mounting depth. Don (6spdcoupe) hooked me up with Jehnert XE200 woofers. I forgot to take pictures.


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

I had Chris Pate and his crew at Mobile Toys install 3 Mosconi amps, a Mobridge DA2, and a Helix DSP. They also ran tweeter cables so that I could run active.

I wanted the trunk to be usable because I need to be able to haul my percussion gear to gigs. Here is the after install shot:


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

Don (6spdcoupe) hooked me up with a DA2 and Helix DSP. The Mobridge DA2 and Helix DSP were mounted in the location where the OEM amp was:



You can see on the right that the OEM harness was tapped into to access the speakers and power.


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

The Mosconi amps:

Left: AS200.2 bridged to the Dynaudio Esotar 1200 (mounted IB)
Middle: AS100.4 in 3 channel mode powering the left channel tweeter, mid, and woofer
Right: AS100.4 in 3 channel mode powering the right channel tweeter, mid, and woofer


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

That's a nice and efficient install!


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

Very crean


Sent from under your mom's bed


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## Rayburn Rat (Jun 22, 2014)

Looks better than stock!


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## snaimpally (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks. My only instruction to Chris was that I needed to be able to use the trunk and he (and his crew) delivered. Very happy. Stull tuning but that Esotar 1200 IB goes very low.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I've driven my girl's 335i through some NoCal B roads. For one, I wouldn't say it's big... haha. It's an excellent drive. I liked the stock stereo although the stage width was super freakin' narrow. I bet yours sounds awesome. Great car.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

I'm here!!!!


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## VP Electricity (Apr 11, 2009)

The US 335s often have the Logic 7 or HK system with a center channel that's too loud. That's why the stage is so narrow. Just unplug it, helps a lot. 

I don't see the pic of the tweeters. Can you repost that pic?


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Nice install. I really like how stealth it turned out.


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## csu87 (Jul 9, 2014)

Nice install. These cars are great


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

A friend of mine recently picked up an '11 3 series, after getting hit one too many times in his 03 IS300. Shortly after that, he got hit in his BMW and it was totalled, so now he has a '11 3 series X drive coupe. I'll have to show him this.

Jay


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

snaimpally said:


> I had Chris Pate and his crew at Mobile Toys install 3 Mosconi amps, a Mobridge DA2, and a Helix DSP. They also ran tweeter cables so that I could run active.
> 
> I wanted the trunk to be usable because I need to be able to haul my percussion gear to gigs. Here is the after install shot:




Curious...why the DA2 instead of the DA1? You could have done the DA1 with digital optical out to the Helix DSP, right?

Also, what do these things cost?

I have a friend looking to do some upgrades in his 2011 bmw 3 series with the same stock setup and I'm looking for some upgrade paths for him.

Thanks


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## VP Electricity (Apr 11, 2009)

The DA2 used to have Toslink out.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Doesn't looks like he's using it though.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

JayinMI said:


> A friend of mine recently picked up an '11 3 series, after getting hit one too many times in his 03 IS300. Shortly after that, he got hit in his BMW and it was totalled, so now he has a '11 3 series X drive coupe. I'll have to show him this.
> 
> Jay


Jay-

Let me know what you guys ended up doing. trying to decide if a simple DSP with high level inputs is acceptable, or if I'll need to go with either a LOC or a Mobridge unit as an interface.

Thanks


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

VP Electricity said:


> The DA2 used to have Toslink out.


Thanks.

Yeah I see on the website that as of 1/2014, they no longer have it on the DA2.


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## Tnutt19 (Dec 22, 2010)

There is no replacement for using the mObridge in that setup that is near as good.
The DA1 works flawless, had it in my 550i and it was like having a highend aftermarket radio, the source was perfect. If he is worried about the sound I would suggest a Da1, or even DA2 with or without toslink although the toslink into any processor worked great!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Tnutt19 said:


> There is no replacement for using the mObridge in that setup that is near as good.
> The DA1 works flawless, had it in my 550i and it was like having a highend aftermarket radio, the source was perfect. If he is worried about the sound I would suggest a Da1, or even DA2 with or without toslink although the toslink into any processor worked great!


Good to know, thanks!

What output do the stock headunits actually have? RCA? Digital?


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## Tnutt19 (Dec 22, 2010)

If I remember right in the 2011 the output is only through the Most network for the factory radio. There are others that use speaker wires out of the factory radio and have those go into an oem amp and to speakers.
There are no rcas or any of that though, although the mObridge taps into the MOST network by replacing the factory amplifiers plug and grabs full signal. Seriously the sound is as good as high end aftermarket units.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Troy- Also, they state retention of factory volume controls. How is that possible when using digital toslink to a DSP unit? Is that the way you used it?


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## Tnutt19 (Dec 22, 2010)

Yes that is the way I used it and it does retain factory volume control. It is programmed to work somehow, not sure how but used it with 4 different processors and all worked flawless.
Mosconi 6to8v8
Alpine H800
Zapco DSP6
Audison Bitone

You retain all factory controls and get a perfect signal. Honestly it is a no brainer and after you try it you will be saying the same thing.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

It's digital attenuation before the signal gets converted to the digital optical MOST transmission protocol. Works like the volume slider on iTunes for example. Same goes for the OE tone, bal, eq, fad., all done in the digital domain. Then the resulting altered signal is converted from MOST to S/PDIF Toslink and/or analog in the Mobridge device.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Ahhhh, I gotcha. Badass.


Thanks


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

One more question... Any idea what the actual available space is for the underseat midbasses? Whats the available mounting depth? Is the driver in there a standard diameter size (like 225mm?)

Trying to see what might fit, even with a little modification. Any room above the enclosure under the seat to have a baffle to accommodate a larger depth driver?

Thanks


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## Tnutt19 (Dec 22, 2010)

There is about 3" total depth available. nothing more. There is no room above the oem grill, the seat slider sits on top of it.


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## Tnutt19 (Dec 22, 2010)

Also I would be careful in putting a midrange/midbass down there, it sits a little far back and messes with the imaging, really anything above 125hz to it starts to do funky things with the sound stage. I ended up relocating to kick panels to avoid this.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Tnutt19 said:


> There is about 3" total depth available. nothing more. There is no room above the oem grill, the seat slider sits on top of it.





Tnutt19 said:


> Also I would be careful in putting a midrange/midbass down there, it sits a little far back and messes with the imaging, really anything above 125hz to it starts to do funky things with the sound stage. I ended up relocating to kick panels to avoid this.


Hmm, good to know. Besides the Jenherts, are there any other suitable replacements that you're aware of?


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

Tnutt19 said:


> Also I would be careful in putting a midrange/midbass down there, it sits a little far back and messes with the imaging, really anything above 125hz to it starts to do funky things with the sound stage.


That has been my experience as well. However, instead of using the kicks, there is another way that keeps everything stock. You have to try and find a 4" mid that will play down to ~100Hz. I only know one right off the top of my head, the Morel MW-4. I'm using some old school JBL GTi's and they do a great job for me, HP at 100Hz 4th order.

Once you limit the underseats to ~100Hz, they can do some serious damage. I squeezed in some old school Morel HCW-10's, and they work great (with a little bit of modding...). If I didn't have the Morels, I would probably have grabbed some Dyn MW182's, which are about 2 mm deeper than the Morels, but I am sure I could make them fit if I wanted to.

The key to getting great midbass out of this application is to open the enclosures up to the outside atmosphere. What you need to do is cut out the bottoms of the plastic enclosures, drill 1 or 2 extra 2" holes in the sheet metal right underneath the enclosures (there already is one 2" hole for drainage), and lay a bead of window sealant around the hole in the bottom of the enclosures. This will vent the back wave to the space between the bottom floor pan and the splash cover. Since the splash cover butts up right against the floor pan, you need to put in some spacer material, around 1/4" thick, to help create an air space in that area. Some of the back wave will still be able to flow into the side sill cavities, which is ok. This has worked great for me and has totally transformed the midbass response in the car.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Jay-
> 
> Let me know what you guys ended up doing. trying to decide if a simple DSP with high level inputs is acceptable, or if I'll need to go with either a LOC or a Mobridge unit as an interface.
> 
> Thanks


He's in Turin, I think. I haven't talked to him in a while. Last we talked he just wanted to add a sub and maybe a custom box.

Jay


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

kaigoss69 said:


> That has been my experience as well. However, instead of using the kicks, there is another way that keeps everything stock. You have to try and find a 4" mid that will play down to ~100Hz. I only know one right off the top of my head, the Morel MW-4. I'm using some old school JBL GTi's and they do a great job for me, HP at 100Hz 4th order.
> 
> Once you limit the underseats to ~100Hz, they can do some serious damage. I squeezed in some old school Morel HCW-10's, and they work great (with a little bit of modding...). If I didn't have the Morels, I would probably have grabbed some Dyn MW182's, which are about 2 mm deeper than the Morels, but I am sure I could make them fit if I wanted to.
> 
> The key to getting great midbass out of this application is to open the enclosures up to the outside atmosphere. What you need to do is cut out the bottoms of the plastic enclosures, drill 1 or 2 extra 2" holes in the sheet metal right underneath the enclosures (there already is one 2" hole for drainage), and lay a bead of window sealant around the hole in the bottom of the enclosures. This will vent the back wave to the space between the bottom floor pan and the splash cover. Since the splash cover butts up right against the floor pan, you need to put in some spacer material, around 1/4" thick, to help create an air space in that area. Some of the back wave will still be able to flow into the side sill cavities, which is ok. This has worked great for me and has totally transformed the midbass response in the car.



(Old thread resurrection - I know. But info should still be valid, if it can be recalled.)
Which MW4's would work? The Virtus or the Hybrid? What year 3-series? Which body - coupe, sedan, or wagon?
Both Morels look a little deep at 50mm. I haven't tried it, but was under the impression that any 4-incher over about 42mm mounting depth wouldn't go in the stock location on the sedan, and a little less on the coupe. I'd love to be wrong.


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

^^^ e90 or e91 will fit MW4 just fine. E92 or e93 won't.


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

kaigoss69 said:


> ^^^ e90 or e91 will fit MW4 just fine. E92 or e93 won't.


Awesome. Thanks.
Also located a thread where VP Electricity put one in an E82, with just a special bracket.
I like a 10f there, but would kinda need a kickpanel MB to cross to on the bottom. Hybrid MW4 might be a good compromise to utilize stock locations, at just over 1/2 the cost of the HAT Carbon.


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

tjswarbrick said:


> Awesome. Thanks.
> Also located a thread where VP Electricity put one in an E82, with just a special bracket.
> I like a 10f there, but would kinda need a kickpanel MB to cross to on the bottom. Hybrid MW4 might be a good compromise to utilize stock locations, at just over 1/2 the cost of the HAT Carbon.


10f won't go low enough for my taste.


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

kaigoss69 said:


> 10f won't go low enough for my taste.


'zactly


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## kaigoss69 (Apr 2, 2008)

AudioFrog GB40 would be another good (probably great) option.


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 27, 2013)

kaigoss69 said:


> AudioFrog GB40 would be another good (probably great) option.


And only 41mm mounting depth! Forgot about those, somehow. While both are a bit more than I'm hoping to spend, those are a fair sight more. Conveniently enough, my local installer carries - and loves - both Morel and AF. So I have someone to discuss that with.
Maybe even listen.
Once I get the car...
Thanks for the tip!


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## jb4674 (Jan 29, 2015)

Looks nice.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Tnutt19 said:


> If I remember right in the 2011 the output is only through the Most network for the factory radio. There are others that use speaker wires out of the factory radio and have those go into an oem amp and to speakers.
> There are no rcas or any of that though, although the mObridge taps into the MOST network by replacing the factory amplifiers plug and grabs full signal. Seriously the sound is as good as high end aftermarket units.



Is there a diagram that shows this connection? So you're basically tapping into the speaker wires at the harness before it connect to the amplifier and connecting them to specific inputs on the Mobridge DA2? Is the unit supplied (or available) with a compatible harness to connect directly to the BMW's amplifier input plug?


Thanks fellas!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I believe the moBridge piece takes the Most over Optical input and gives you either RCA or Optical (Toslink) out, depending on which one you get.

I haven't used one yet, but I'm under the impression they have a vehicle specific harness. I'm sure VP Electricity has posted a couple of builds where they've used them...he might be the one to ask.

Jay


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