# 2002 Silverado, Phoenix Gold Outlaw/Bandit, Eclipse and JL



## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok so I never finished my Blazer because I knew I would be buying a new truck, I finally got that truck. I purchased a 2002 Silverado extended cab from a freind, the truck was his project and now it is mine to finish. I got it for the screaming deal of $5,000, and all it really needs is the paint and bodywork finished.

Here is the truck before he started the bodywork










Here is what the truck looks like now. Shaved everything!




























So onto the system, my goal is to keep it simple and cool. I love old school american made amps and thats where the cool will be, 1 Phoenix Gold Outlaw and 2 Bandits. The system will currently have no additional processors other than whats in the head unit, that is the simple.

So the truck came with a full JL system, I will re-use the speakers but the amps were sacrificed to fund the Outlaw/Bandit combo.

Here is the system list:

Eclipse 7200 MKII (with HD and Sirius tuners)
Phoenix Gold Outlaw (M100 on bass and M50 on midbass)
Phoenix Gold Bandit Left (Left tweeter and mid, bi-amped using passive xover)
Phoenix Gold Bandit Right (Right tweeter and mid, bi-amped using passive xover)
JL Audio XR525csi 5.25 mid and tweeter
JL Audio XR650 midbass
JL Audio 10W6V2 in a pair of stealthboxes

Here is the system layout










The truck is hopefully going into paint by next week and then back to me for a full sound deadening including Ensolite and MLV. The system goal is stealth with midbass in the factory door locations and mids and tweets in the kick panels. The stealthboxes will be under the seat, with the amp rack behind the seat.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subscribed!!!


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## jbancs (Feb 26, 2012)

ok, now this is creepy. I had a blazer extreme that I sold earlier this year, and bought a 2002 silverado...Why are you copying me? haha. Good luck on the build, I'm working on the fit and finish stages of my truck, so I know how good they can sound.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

truck should look great when finished. good upgrade man


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I got the 2 Bandits in the email today, they are almost perfect. I lined all three amps and they are even bigger than I thought, almost 4 1/2 feet long.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

jbancs said:


> ok, now this is creepy. I had a blazer extreme that I sold earlier this year, and bought a 2002 silverado...Why are you copying me? haha. Good luck on the build, I'm working on the fit and finish stages of my truck, so I know how good they can sound.





MTopper said:


> truck should look great when finished. good upgrade man


We should start an "I used to own an S-10 Blazer" club in here.


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## oilman (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks like fun. Sub'ed and good luck with your new project.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I have decided to compete next year and I am considering doing the "Stock" class for MECA and the "Intro" class for USACi. I have some questions on the rules for everyone though for both classes.

1. I know I can use sound deadener, but can I use "ensolite" or MLV.

2. I know I have to use factory speaker openings only, but do they have to be the exact same size. For example can I put a 5 1/4 in a 4x6 hole.

3. In the class rules say I have to keep my jack but I have replaced it with a Stealthbox, is that absolutely required.

I am sure I will have more questions but if anyone can answer these it will let me make a decision.


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## yeldak99 (Mar 5, 2008)

Who is doing your paint?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

yeldak99 said:


> Who is doing your paint?


ACARS in Virginia Beach, he gave me a great deal and he does amazing work. He normally does classic muscle cars and Corvettes.


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## yeldak99 (Mar 5, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> ACARS in Virginia Beach, he gave me a great deal and he does amazing work. He normally does classic muscle cars and Corvettes.


Nice. They've always got some nice stuff around that place.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok I need help, I am strongly looking at doing the MECA "stock" class. If I do I have to retain my factory jack, problem is I never had it, it was gone when I bought the truck. I need pictures of a factory jack mounted in a 1999-2006 Silverado, I need to know if I can still run my JL Stealthboxes with the jack mounted. Also if you want to sell me your jack and tools let me know.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I finally found a pic of the factory jack, thanks to JML audio for leaving the jack in place. I hope you don't mind me borrowing your pic.










So it appears that the jack mounts to the ledge and not in the footwell as I originally thought. This is great news as I can continue to use both Stealthboxes without breaking the rules.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So now that I have to stay behind factory speaker grilles I have decisions to make. I will not be able to run a 3 way front stage as originally planned using 6.5s in the doors with tweets and 5.25s in the kicks. So here are my options.

#1 head unit using front and rear outputs

6.5s and tweets in the doors
5.25s in the rear doors

6.5s and tweets have to share time delay settings

#2 head unit using 3 way outputs

6.5s and tweets in the doors
5.25s in the rear doors

5.25s and 6.5s have to share time delay settings

this option allows me to move the tweeter and set its time delay seperately.

#3 head unit using 3 way outputs

6.5s and tweets in the doors
No 5.25s 
drop a bandit amp and keep as a spare.

this option also allows me to move the tweeters also but provides no rear fill.

I have done alot of reading on midbass/midrange arrays and their ability to cut down on localization. My question is will a 6.5 and 5.25 of the same manufacturer and style still provide the array effect.

I cannot get a 6.5 in the rear doors without cutting metal, it is a 4x6 opening. I also do not really want to go down to a 5.25 in the front to match sizes, I feel I will lose too much midbass doing this.

Let me know what you guys think


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

Kickpanels?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

FuriousYachtsman said:


> Kickpanels?


I can't do kickpanels in the stock class, it is prohibited, or did you mean what are kickpanels.


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## FuriousYachtsman (Jan 25, 2011)

Totally missed the part about competing. Sorry.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Ya the stock class is really restrictive, but that's why I think it's fun. The truck actually came with a pair of kickpanels in it, wish I could use them they sounded pretty decent. I'll put them on the shelf for now and maybe use them if I change classes later.

By the way I love the name


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So due to limitations of the class, I am considering using a full range point source driver with maybe a super tweeter for stage height. Has anyone tried this using a full range off axis in the doors. I am considering using the Dayton audio PS180.

Dayton PS180-8 6-1/2" Point Source Full-Range Neo Driver 295-344


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I have a chance to get my hands on one of the 500 Morel Elate limited edition 6 sets. For those that arnt familiar it is a 6, 3 ,1 set with bi-ampable crossovers. The question is if I can fit everything behind the stock grille am I legal for stock since my truck didn't have a 3way front stage originally.


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## SoundJunkie (Dec 3, 2008)

npdang said:


> I should have a tuning tutorial up by this weekend. I also like the idea of giving points to speakers, and I will definitely try to do that for the next review.
> 
> Good suggestions keepem coming!


Pretty sure it states stock locations....I would have to read it again though. Love the M series amps! Some of my favorites! 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## spl152db (Dec 20, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> So now that I have to stay behind factory speaker grilles I have decisions to make. I will not be able to run a 3 way front stage as originally planned using 6.5s in the doors with tweets and 5.25s in the kicks. So here are my options.
> 
> #1 head unit using front and rear outputs
> 
> ...


only option is #3 for competiting. If you want to actually score high, you don't want the tweeters and mids on the same t/a. 



Navy Chief said:


> So due to limitations of the class, I am considering using a full range point source driver with maybe a super tweeter for stage height. Has anyone tried this using a full range off axis in the doors. I am considering using the Dayton audio PS180.
> 
> Dayton PS180-8 6-1/2" Point Source Full-Range Neo Driver 295-344


I looked at those and decided that with them being in my doors (like yours will be) it would be too hard to get a center stage to work out properly without the stage pulling way down when going to full left or full right sounds. Maybe if you ran those full range and had a strong tweeter on the dash you could do it, but then you wouldn't need them to be full range. between the fs, xmax and power handling, I didn't feel they fit my needs. 




Navy Chief said:


> So I have a chance to get my hands on one of the 500 Morel Elate limited edition 6 sets. For those that arnt familiar it is a 6, 3 ,1 set with bi-ampable crossovers. The question is if I can fit everything behind the stock grille am I legal for stock since my truck didn't have a 3way front stage originally.


I) All speakers (except for subwoofer(s) and 1 pair of tweeters less than 2” in diameter) will be placed in stock locations as originally provided 
from the manufacturer without making any alterations and will not hinder the vehicle’s operation or visual appearance. 
Tweeters may be mounted on door panels, dash, or A-pillars with basic hardware, but no tweeter pods or build-outs are permitted. Door panels 
may not be modiﬁed in any way. Venting speakers outside the vehicle is not permitted. 
N) Waveguides and/or additions of horns are not permitted. Cutting of metal is not allowed

Basically if it didn't come stock that way, don't expect to be able to compete that way.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

It looks like you guys are reading the rules the same as me. I was just wondering because the Silverado has a tweeter in the upper part of the grille in the door and I can move my tweeter to the a-pillar, it leaves a spot large enough for me to fit a 3"mid still behind the factory grille. Thats why I like this class, I like the limitations it makes things interesting.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

UPDATE

I picked up both a pair of the Dayton full ranges and a pair of Exodus Anarchys.

The updated plan is to run the Exodus Anarchys in the doors paired with Aura NSW-2s in the A pillars. If I decide not to compete in the stock class I will run the Daytons in the kick panels instead of the Auras.

Here is an up to date system diagram


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So the delays were due to the truck being in the paint shop for a few weeks, thought you all might want to see the final results. I still plan on changing the wheels, probably a 22" thinking something black or dark grey (no chrome).


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Lovely finish!


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## evangojason (Feb 12, 2010)

Like the color, looking forward to seeing the install.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Very nice looking truck.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Sweet truck!l


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## speakerpimp (Feb 15, 2012)

Ahh man that satin paint job is sick...


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

HOLLY SHMOLLY HOT SAUCE! PG Outlaws!!....

that is all.



Nice ride, I hope you took influence from the PG's for the colour choice?


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## nellymerc (May 3, 2012)

Satin paint is where it's at. Sub'd


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

sydmonster said:


> HOLLY SHMOLLY HOT SAUCE! PG Outlaws!!....
> 
> that is all.
> 
> ...


Yes the amps go very well with the new paint, a very close match. To bad I have to hide the amps behind the seat, its the only place they fit.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

wow mark!

awesome lookin truck!

if you need some help or whatever, gimme a call.

fact is, gimme a call if you have any questions about competing. i just did a season and its somewhat fresh in my mind. id have to read over the rule book to clarify though. by the way, i moved back down here and we live here for good now


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I love the paint!!! I am 45 so old school equipment brings back a lot of memories as does a truck like yours.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Navy Chief said:


> Yes the amps go very well with the new paint, a very close match. To bad I have to hide the amps behind the seat, its the only place they fit.


Understood mang... trucks & car audio in general is always going to be a compramise 

If you ever need to move/sell any of your Outlaws on please let me know.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

AudioBob said:


> I love the paint!!! I am 45 so old school equipment brings back a lot of memories as does a truck like yours.


I'll be 35 in march but I have been into custom trucks and car audio since I was 15. I have trying to get a truck like this for 20 years and I lusted after the Outlaw/Bandit combo in high school.



sydmonster said:


> Understood mang... trucks & car audio in general is always going to be a compramise
> 
> If you ever need to move/sell any of your Outlaws on please let me know.


I doubt I will be selling the amps any time soon, once this truck is done I'm just going to enjoy it for a while.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

Sitting in for the ride.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So today i showed the truck to some great guys with great input, I met up with team DIYMA members REQ (Andy) and turbo5upra (Brian). We talked a lot about speaker positions and options, I also got to hear both Brian's and Andy's cars that went to the MECA finals last year. 

The best piece of advice I got from both of them was to build the system I want and let MECA determine what class it belongs in instead of building the system to suit the rules of a specific class. This was great advice because I was really stuck on how to get the results I wanted with the limitations I was using.

The only major change at this time are that the Aurasound Whispers are out and the Dayton 6.5 full ranges are in. I am still keeping the Exodus Anarchys for midbass but will now run the Dayton 6.5s for high and midrange. I am almost positive that the Daytons are going in the kick panels, if that changes I will let everyone know.

I am also working a deal for a Phoenix Gold TI Powercore 15 for distribution and capacitor. 

I am going to try to get the rest of the interior stripped out soon so i can get the deadening done and wiring run, then its on to the amp rack.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Love the stance of the truck, matte paint and Phoenix Gold amps. Win!


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I think they gave you great advice on building your system. Back in the day, there were only 2 classes, Pro and Amateur and they were subdivided by your total RMS amplifier ratings at 4ohms. So you tried to build your system around power ratings instead of what you would enjoy the most. Then came the "Cheater" amps that as you loaded them down they doubled or tripled in power output.

Once I decided I did not care about hitting some power level and just installed speakers and amps that I needed I was much more happy. I always tried to stay right at 500 watts RMS because it was a challenge putting a system together at that wattage and still have a decent sounding and dynamic system. I was never really happy until I had 1,000 watts RMS on tap.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

AudioBob said:


> I think they gave you great advice on building your system. Back in the day, there were only 2 classes, Pro and Amateur and they were subdivided by your total RMS amplifier ratings at 4ohms. So you tried to build your system around power ratings instead of what you would enjoy the most. Then came the "Cheater" amps that as you loaded them down they doubled or tripled in power output.
> 
> Once I decided I did not care about hitting some power level and just installed speakers and amps that I needed I was much more happy. I always tried to stay right at 500 watts RMS because it was a challenge putting a system together at that wattage and still have a decent sounding and dynamic system. I was never really happy until I had 1,000 watts RMS on tap.


Trust me I remember those days. The funny thing is that I have exactly 500w at 4 ohm with 4 1/2 feet of amplifier. I wish they still had power classes it would make this more interesting.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

Navy Chief said:


> Trust me I remember those days. The funny thing is that I have exactly 500w at 4 ohm with 4 1/2 feet of amplifier. I wish they still had power classes it would make this more interesting.


Till someone showed up with 100' of zuki power.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Picked up a powercore 15 for distribution, just need to find a place to mount it. Gonna try to get the carpet out this weekend to start running wire and deadening.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I had a friend give me a brand new overhead DVD Player/monitor a CD Player that I had sitting on the shelf for his DD. Needless to say I installed the CD player in his car and he helped me drop the headliner in the truck and install the DVD Player/monitor. I also took the time to deaden the roof while I was up there, which considering the size of the roof it made a huge difference.

Now for the problem, I blew the fuse somewhere to the overhead lights which I am stealing power from for the DVD. So I need some help from all of you. I stole +12V and ground from the map lights and the +12V for the door light trigger from the dome light, this made sense to me. So when I was stripping the leads from the map lights I forgot that they are always hot and I accidentally touched them (yes I saw the spark) and of course now I have no power to any lights. I have pulled every fuse that makes sense to me and can't find anything blown. I randomly get 12v present but every time I try to turn on the lights or the DVD I lose it till I cycle the dome override switch. Any ideas anyone.


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## turbo5upra (Oct 3, 2008)

what kind of draw does the tv pull?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I didn't look but it has to be low, maybe 3 amps it doesnt even have audio. 

Even after I restored the wiring back to its original configuration with only the igtail attached but not connected I can't even get the map lights to work with nothing else on the circuit. 

I did read that there is an issue with these truck and the plug feeding the roof harness coming loose at the fuse box. Because I no longer have the 3rd brake light I can't check the theory.

I will say that the dash lights are working so this theory makes sense. I did put a bit of stress on the wiring feeding the roof while the headliner was down so it may have become lose downstream.

All the wiring in these trucks is glued to the headliner and there is no plug to unplug the whole headliner so I had to just work around keeping it in the truck, what a pain in the a$$.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

OK, I am officially an idiot. I finally found the burnt fuse under the hood, CTSY LP or courtesy lamp if you speak GM. Only problem is that the dome light wire that I used as a "door" trigger apparently has +12V present all the time so the damn dome lights wont turn off. I will try the other wire tomorrow and if that doesnt work I just wont have a door trigger to turn the overhead light on when I open the door.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So time for some updates, unfortunately they are not audio related. So I said in the beginning that the wheels were not my style and I finally got a chance to replace them. 

So Monday morning on my way to work I nailed a pot hole and bent the hell out of my wheel, I bent it so bad it wont hold air. Not only did the 30 series tire ride like crap, they didn't even protect the wheel. Fast forward to today, I sold the 24" tires and used the money to buy a set of factory 20" Tahoe LTZ wheels.










I went with a 20" wheel for a few reasons, with biggest of which was based on what size tire I could run. The tires will be 275/45r20 Goodyear Eagle GTII, This tires gives me enough sidewall for a smooth ride yet low profile enough for "spirited" driving, and since the Eagle GTIIs are not directional I can actually rotate my tires again.

So the only decision I have left is what color do I want them to be.

1. Keep them silver with the gold bowtie.

2. Dark Gray with a black bowtie 

3. Black with a red bowtie.

Let me know what you guys think, if somebody gets board with photoshop and wants to show me what it might look like feel free to post pics.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Here are some pics of examples


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

BEAUTIFUL TRUCK CHIEF!!!!! 
Cant wait to see how this turns out.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

chefhow said:


> BEAUTIFUL TRUCK CHIEF!!!!!
> Cant wait to see how this turns out.


Chef, hopefully you get to see it in person this year. Would love to catch up with you at a show this year, are you going to any of the Columbus shows thi year.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> Chef, hopefully you get to see it in person this year. Would love to catch up with you at a show this year, are you going to any of the Columbus shows thi year.


Not sure about my travel schedule yet. Moving in the sprinig, new postition at work will take me out on the road 40-50% of the time from April -Sept and I havent started my new car yet. 
I plan to throw 2 shows in Warrenton Va at Tintworx, probably 1 in May and 1 in June, maybe you can make the trip there, its only a couple of hours. Keep an eye out on the MECA schedule, they will be 2X SQ only shows.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

black with matching blue bowtie and blue pinstripe around the lip


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

req said:


> black with matching blue bowtie and blue pinstripe around the lip


Interesting, I thought about doing a blue bowtie but I thought it better to use red to tie into the red Baer brakes.

I think I am leaning towards a dark titanium or graphite color. There is an Audi A4 that I park next to in the morning that has the color wheels I want.


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## D-Bass (Apr 27, 2012)

i'm digging that first wheel pic you just posted, but I will be the first to admit that I know nothing about rims, nor do I have an eye for good ones. I can spot an ugly rim in a second, but not a good one versus ok


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Here is my inspiration

http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images...arbon/wheels-Corvette-Z06-Carbon-blogSpan.jpg


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Very nice inspiration, I to place my vote on the first picture with the blue bowtie. You don't need to match the brakes to the wheel. Let the two of them compliment the truck as opposed to blend in. I hope that I've worded that correctly.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I picked up a can of VHT wheel paint in the dark titanium. I'm going to do one wheel and just see how it looks. Pics pending


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So some of you might have seen that I put the JL stealthboxes up for sale (somebody please buy them). So you may have asked what am i going to be using for a sub. So since i am no longer trying to build to a competition class, I am now free to build a center console sub. What sub will be going in that console, 1 old school Pro Tech cast 12" (thanks to 60ndown).




























For those of you unfamiliar with Pro Tech, it was PJ's house brand back in the 90s. This was the same sub used in Greg Cassis Typhoon back in the 90s. I am looking for recommendations on enclosure, I ask this because the results I am getting are giving me a 2 cu. ft sealed at a QTC of .8 (kinda high), a 3 cu. ft. bandpass with a box freq of 50hz and finally a 4 cu. ft box tuned to 29hz. does anyone else think a banpass that small is strange. I am happy to take recommendations, thanks.


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## imjustjason (Jun 26, 2006)

Tony Dionisi's vette rocked the Pro Techs too and it was fairly successful in the comp world.

Good looking truck Mark, love the amps.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

i think that one subwoofer is not enough cone area. 

and i mean blue pinstripe like this;


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

imjustjason said:


> Tony Dionisi's vette rocked the Pro Techs too and it was fairly successful in the comp world.
> 
> Good looking truck Mark, love the amps.


I also have the same CH10s that Tony's vette had on the shelf, have a pair of new CH12D4s also. I has actually going to build Tony's system at one time, I still have most of the equipment.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

req said:


> i think that one subwoofer is not enough cone area.
> 
> and i mean blue pinstripe like this;


Andy I love the things you can do in photoshop, and i am really liking that idea now that I see it. As far as cone area, this decision was based on your input. 

Moving the sub to the console will let me put the amps under the seat instead of behind them, this will let them be displayed properly as you suggested.

Now how bout you photoshop those wheels onto my truck so I can see what they look like.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

lol. 

get me better picture (full rim) that is not 3\4 view and i can do anything. at least a model number or something. im kind of lazy. but i will do that.

i dont know anything about that subwoofer - but the more cone area the happier i always am ultimatly.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I did a little shopping today in preparation for sound deadening the floors. Since the truck is up on blocks with no wheels on it I figured now is the best time to pull out the seats and carpet.

Bought some black 1/4" "yoga" mats from TJ Maxx for CCF. I also picked up a piece of 16x24" HDPE for future use.


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## nellymerc (May 3, 2012)

Are the mats just for the floor?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

nellymerc said:


> Are the mats just for the floor?


CCF or closed cell foam has significant benefits behind any interior panels to absorb noise. Typically most people use 1/8" materials specifically designed for automotive use like Ensolite or Dynaliner. These mats are much cheaper per sq. ft. and are readily available, additionally they are twice as thick so hopefully they are twice as effective (we will see). 

I will try these out on the floor which in my opinion is the most forgiving place to thickness, also hopefully the thicker foam will have the biggest benefit on the floor. If these work well I may try these in the doors also if I can get them to fit. If these are too thick I will use a 1/8" product instead.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

just fyi, the closed cell foam (CCF) is used to decouple the other layers of sound proofing materials from each other. so if you were going to put down butyl\aluminum tiles to absorb panel resonation, then CCF and then a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV). the MLV in this case is actually the absorption material. its all about making the sound waves change the medium of transfer back and forth from gas to solid. this change strongly weakens the noise throughput by turning the kinetic energy into heat (very small amounts of heat).

so the CCF will help decouple your feet from the floor to reduce tactile response from vibrations and resonances, but it really helps in conjunction with MLV to make it block noise throughput. the emphasis is on putting the CCF between the metal panel and the MLV so there is a "pocket of air" between the two.

i hope that helps.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks for the better explanation Andy. I also thought that CCF absorbed and MLV reflected/blocked sound. Making the steel with butyl-CCF-MLV sandwich I always thought trapped sound between the steel and MLV. I never realized there was a transfer and change of energy involved in the process. In any case I still have enough MLV left to do the floor in this truck.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I finally got some progress done today (especially in part due to the awesome weather today). I got the interior stripped out today and cleaned the floor. I found a few random soda spills and lots of change. I also hit some random holes and all the exposed bolts with some grey hammer paint just to hide any red when I put everything back together. Finally I got all the Raamat BXT laid down, I m going to try the 35% rule and see how it goes.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So just out of curiosity I stripped the bottom cushion off of the center console to see what I was working with. So unlike some trucks the upper part of the console is welded to the lower frame so I am stuck with the height of the original top section staying the same i I want to keep it.

Console with the bottom cushion removed, I will remove the top bars that go front to back so that will buy me a few inches.










This is what space is left










Here is the sub set on top of the frame










Here is what it looks like from the side, I can make this work


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I thought I would show you guys the new wheels on the truck. They arn't painted yet and the suspension is dropped all the way out but here they are nonetheless.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So day 2 of great weather and therefore day 2 of deadening. Today I installed all the Closed Cell Foam (4 yoga mats from TJ Maxx) and MLV. I also put all the carpet and jute padding back and got the front seats re-installed. 

I ended up using 3 yoga mats for the floor, here is the center one installed first.



















All CCF installed with MLV, I had just enough MLV to do everything minus that square in the middle.










I repainted the retainers on both sides due to some minor surface rust.










The last yoga mat was the perfect size to line the rear wall of the cab. Considering I have an exhaust with no muffler I really needed this. The PG Powercore is for mock up, it will be mounted back there somewhere.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Finally, I put some speakers down for mock up just to see what I am in for.


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## jbancs (Feb 26, 2012)

I went the same route with my sub setup in my single cab. I went with a 10" sub, instead of a 12, and I was able to keep my enclosure fitting in the factory upholstery so it looks completely stock. Unfortunately I've changed my mind and all the work is for nothing since I'm going with 3 8" subs now.


Here is what it looks like after I cut out all the metal for clearance








And with the factory foam back on.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

jbancs said:


> I went the same route with my sub setup in my single cab. I went with a 10" sub, instead of a 12, and I was able to keep my enclosure fitting in the factory upholstery so it looks completely stock. Unfortunately I've changed my mind and all the work is for nothing since I'm going with 3 8" subs now.
> 
> Here is what it looks like after I cut out all the metal for clearance


Do you have any pictures of the enclosure, I was considering trying to do the same thing. Why did you not cut the 2 pieces of bar left on either side out completely, it seems like you would gain more space that way.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I was less motivated today, but I did want to get some things done. I did detail all my wheel wells today while all the wheels are off, I sprayed them all with undercoating and chassis black. I drilled the holes for the power and ground wires today, I want to ground directly to the frame and I want to run the power and ground together so I will run power along the frame.

2 big damn holes in my floor










Little paint to prevent rust










Monster cable sleeves installed with carpet back in place










I also put the rear seat back in today to check clearance for the powercore


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## addmd (Aug 21, 2009)

I'm glad to see the yoga mats are working out for ya. I see that you are using the 6.5 dayton full rangers too. I'll be using them in the back of my chrysler 300 for fill. Now I'm just trying to figure out how to squeeze the .25 ft3 enclosure with a 2" dia x 4" long port in between the deck and my IB sub mount. I'm glad to see someone else using them. I got suckered into using them by their good looks  Seeing them everyday on the front of the parts express catalog got to me I guess. Your build looks great so far. Keep up the good work!


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## jbancs (Feb 26, 2012)

Navy Chief said:


> Do you have any pictures of the enclosure, I was considering trying to do the same thing. Why did you not cut the 2 pieces of bar left on either side out completely, it seems like you would gain more space that way.


I was in complete "get it done" mode and didn't snap any pictures. I ended up cutting out the round tube acting as a cross brace for the arm rest/seat back to gain more airspace. I'll look through my old computer and see if I can get the measurements and picture of the box.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

One other thing that I got done today was "fix" the exhaust cutout. The painter was supposed to paint the trim ring black but never got to it. so today I painted it black and bought new black allen head screws.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

still creeping. love the side exit exhaust on any truck. keep it up man


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I am looking at some creative ways to mount the amps under the rear seat and I have an idea that I want all of you to provide input on.

As most of you know the Outlaw was originally shipped in a wooden crate, unfortunately I did not get that crate but I always thought it would be cool to incorporate the crate into an install.

I was considering building a "crate" like structure that would hold the Outlaw and both Bandits together under the rear seat. It would appear as if there was a giant crate under the rear seat, I would build it in place contouring it around the floor. Inside would be the amps on maybe a burlap false floor. Only thing I am not sure about is whether I would want to cut a hole in the lid to expose the amps or put some sort of mesh or holes to allow heat to escape. I would even like to add some of the original PG and Outlaw graphics to the outside of the crate.

Tell me what you guys think


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## SACRAMANIAC916 (Apr 9, 2011)

would you consider mounting the amps behind the rear seats? (on the wall)


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

SACRAMANIAC916 said:


> would you consider mounting the amps behind the rear seats? (on the wall)


That was the original plan until I realized that i couldn't properly display the amps behind the seat. The back of the seat is not designed to fold down (it can with modification) but even if it does most of the amp would still be hidden. These amps are way too cool to hide.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I am just not thrilled with the direction my install is going, it is too boring and just doesn't match the attitude of the truck. This truck needs an install and a system with some style and flare. 

I am not going to really change the equipment because I really do love everything I have chosen (and already paid for). I especially love the amps and I feel they truly deserve to been shown off properly, I have never actually seen a great install using the Outlaw and Bandit together. 

I also really love the Anarchy mid basses, they are just huge and can dig deep for a 6.5" Their size is actually kind of an issue, not the dimensions but the output. I think these truly need to be in a small enclosure and not in the doors, I think I will forever chase rattles in the doors and it will limit their output. My plan is to build some small enclosure and experiment with positioning to see how much I can localize these below about 300hz.

The biggest change I want to make is the sub stage and where I am going to put it. The unfortunate reality is that a single 12" in a small sealed enclosure will not make me happy. I like BASS, and sometimes I like a lot of it. For this reason I have decided that I am moving the sub enclosure and amps into the bed. This will give me room to spread out and properly put the Outlaw and Bandits on display. Additionally this will now give me room for a huge enclosure, I am looking at building a 10 - 12 cu ft enclosure for at least a single 18' or maybe a pair if I find they right 8ohm drivers. For a single 4ohm 18" I am looking at the new Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4.

Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 ohm 295-472

A 9.5 cu ft ported enclosure is about ideal. I am going to try to use the factory holes for the vents in the back of the cab to run ports into the cab. I am fine with cutting the bed but would like to avoid cutting the cab. 

Let me know what you guys think.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Of course in the back of my head I still want to run pair of either of these, mostly because they are stupid and awesome all at the same time.

Pyle PDW21250 21" High Power Subwoofer 292-2526

MCM Audio Select 21'' Die Cast Professional Woofer - 800W RMS | 55-2985 (552985) | MCM Audio Select

When did you last see a truck with a pair of 21" subs.


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## matt3824 (Apr 22, 2011)

You won't have enough port area through those holes IMO. Plus it would be awkward and difficult to do.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

matt3824 said:


> You won't have enough port area through those holes IMO. Plus it would be awkward and difficult to do.


Not sure why it would be awkward and difficult, the holes would end up being at either end of the bed. I realize that they arn't huge openings but keep in mind I am not doing an SPL sub. I may get some port noise but they will be behind the seat so hopefully you won't hear it.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

I think equipment wise, your fine as is, or any of the other stuff you mentioned.
Why not take the truck & outlaw part and continue that. Large guage bullets shell ends make for interesting and cool looking bits, you could us to decorate the amp rack. etc.
Perhaps outlaw bandanas over some cables etc...


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

sydmonster said:


> I think equipment wise, your fine as is, or any of the other stuff you mentioned.
> Why not take the truck & outlaw part and continue that. Large guage bullets shell ends make for interesting and cool looking bits, you could us to decorate the amp rack. etc.
> Perhaps outlaw bandanas over some cables etc...


Kinda cool idea, going with an outlaw theme overall, especially in the bed. I like the bullet casing idea, ironically I just bought some .44 shell casing valve stem covers for the wheels. My local gun range probably has a bunch of empty brass and the bandana thing is kinda cool sounding too.


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## marvnmars (Dec 30, 2011)

as far as your rack goes, i would think of maybe using a heavy guage dark blue (or even better a gun bluing finish) metal messh to allow venting of your amps, and doing a logo etched plexy or lexan front under the seats, with maybe a light blue rope led to accent the amps even more, i would think about a dash dimmer to control the leds..beautiful truck and install...your amps are hard to replace and need as much ventelation as you can give them.... good luck and have fun


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Sorry but no audio updates today. I do however have some pics of the new wheels and tires mounted.



















I want to get started on the kick panels next. Looks like I am going to modify the q logic kick panels as they already have the correct final shape.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So after my last post I realized that I still had plenty of daylight left to play around. 

I cut out the diameter of the q logic kickpanels as much as I could using the leading edge as a guide. 
















This gave me enough room to get the entire basket of the PS180s in for a trial fit. Even though they are essentially 7" mids they are very shallow due to the neodymium magents and for that reason that seem to fit well. 

This also gave me an opportunity to see how on axis these kickpanels are, not too bad. I had to use my foot to hold the right driver in the hole.









I also set the Anarchys on the floor to see how I liked them there. I am debating between this location, in the doors (have to fight rattles) or under the rear seat. If I go under the rear seat I may consider running 2 drivers per side in an attempt to do a midbass array. Because the PS180s should be able to comfortably play down to 100hz and I will only be playing the Anarchys from 300hz and down I think I may be able to run the Anarchys in the rear without localization problems. I think I will have to do some listening tests after the kicks are done.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

there are going to be some large mounting baffles for those full ranges hehe. just make sure you beef them up because that plastic is super flimsy!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I have decided to change the center console sub to something with more output. The Pro Tech 12" had great musicality but lacked a bit of output and considering I will only have one sub in the cab I wanted the maximum output possible.

My choice for the sub became very easy after Parts Express gave me one of their brand new Ultimax 10s for free. I recently wrote a letter to PE telling them how happy I was with their products and customer service. I went on to inquire about the new Ultimax drivers as I found them interesting in the latest catalog. I got an email back on Wednesday this week telling me that they appreciated my loyalty to their products and as a thank you would like to offer me a new Ultimax 10" as a gift, how awesome is that for customer service.

In any case the new sub arrived today and it is a beast, it is clearly more beefy than my JL 10W6 V2s. Also since it comes in dual 2ohm coils I can get the 4 ohm load I want.

It is a very nice looking driver, very classy in my opinion.









You can see that it is a substantial and well built driver especially for a 10"









The surround on this thing is huge, xmax is 20mm one way.


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## spl152db (Dec 20, 2007)

Thing looks like a few elemental designs subs patents had a baby. Looks nice though. Always loved the cf cone 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

spl152db said:


> Thing looks like a few elemental designs subs patents had a baby. Looks nice though. Always loved the cf cone
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Yep... I can see that. Below is the ED e3.6 (6" subwoofer) - the Ultimax looks like a giant e3.6 lol 









Kelvin


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

subwoofery said:


> Yep... I can see that. Below is the ED e3.6 (6" subwoofer) - the Ultimax looks like a giant e3.6 lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What are the specs on those, I might consider running those. I am planning on running the Exodus Anarchy but damn they are huge midbass.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I looked up the ed3.6 and it looks just as big as my Anarchys if not bigger, so I think I will stick with what I have. Also looks the ED driver is a true sub where the Anarchys are designed for midbass.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

wow thats cool 

i ordered a battery terminal and it was missing a screw and they mailed me a new one lol.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I am planning on picking up a router table tomorrow to get started on my kick panels. Hey Andy, wanna help with some fiberglass next week.


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## spl152db (Dec 20, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> I looked up the ed3.6 and it looks just as big as my Anarchys if not bigger, so I think I will stick with what I have. Also looks the ED driver is a true sub where the Anarchys are designed for midbass.


I have a few of them and yes sub duty only. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## badmotorscooter (May 22, 2009)

Navy Chief,
I have a complete Solidworks model on a center console for a 10". My design goal was complete stealth. I used .5" mdf and glass to make a factory looking "center seat". The original seat cover was used. It does not have much air volume, but it has enough bass output most of the time. The sub you have pictured will not fit because of depth. I am happy to share pictures of the finished product, but I did not get pics of the install process. I am happy to share the 3D model if it helps you in any way.

I also have an extra enclosure with almost 1ft3 of volume with color matching vinyl I am looking to unload. It is nothing fancy, but it bolts to the exiting console bracket.


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## cyrusthevirus23 (Feb 16, 2013)

Navy Chief said:


> So the delays were due to the truck being in the paint shop for a few weeks, thought you all might want to see the final results. I still plan on changing the wheels, probably a 22" thinking something black or dark grey (no chrome).


very sweet color looks really clean


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## cyrusthevirus23 (Feb 16, 2013)

Navy Chief said:


> One other thing that I got done today was "fix" the exhaust cutout. The painter was supposed to paint the trim ring black but never got to it. so today I painted it black and bought new black allen head screws.



very nice setup


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I am pulling this back out of the dead, I have made some progress even though I haven't posted. 

I techflexed and routed the RCAs and the remote turn on and bass knob wires.

I mounted the Phoenix Gold lpl-44 bass knob in the dash.

I mounted the head unit using a kit from HUMOUNT out of Canada.

I re-lamped the gauge lights to blue (not audio but important while in the dash)

I also have changed my speaker choices a few times and have settled on going back to using the JL Audio Stealthboxes with a 10W6 V2 each. I want to compete in Modified Street this year so sub in the center console will have to wait for now. Also who can argue with enclosures designed by the manufacturer. I have decided on Dayton Audio PS180 point source drivers in the kick panels and Dayton Audio RS180-4 midbass in the doors. 

Finally I started getting my amps back from benchtesting, I wanted to start them up in a controlled environment due to thier age. I got back both Bandits for now and should have the Outlaw back next week. Both bandits got a clean bill of health including the capacitors, which are not PG capacitors from what I can tell, does anyone know of PG using different capacitors in the "special edition" amps. The Outlaw popped at least 1 mosfet on the bench and will need a few repairs before I get it back. 

When I got back the Bandits I also got back the bench numbers for each amp and here they are. All measurements were at 13.4 volts

Bandit Serial #1778

Stereo 4 ohm 91x2 (rated 80x2)
Stereo 2 ohm 136x2 (rated 120x2)
Mono 4 ohm 230x1 (rated 245x1)

Bandit Serial #1779

Stereo 4 ohm 95x2 (rated 80x2)
Stereo 2 ohm 144x2 (rated 120x2)
Mono 4 ohm 208x1 (rated 245x1)


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Navy Chief said:


> Finally I started getting my amps back from benchtesting, I wanted to start them up in a controlled environment due to thier age. I got back both Bandits for now and should have the Outlaw back next week. Both bandits got a clean bill of health including the capacitors, which are not PG capacitors from what I can tell, does anyone know of PG using different capacitors in the "special edition" amps. The Outlaw popped at least 1 mosfet on the bench and will need a few repairs before I get it back.
> 
> When I got back the Bandits I also got back the bench numbers for each amp and here they are. All measurements were at 13.4 volts
> 
> ...


interesting!!


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

sydmonster said:


> interesting!!


I thought so too, especially that they didn't do rated power at 4ohm mono. The M50 section of the Outlaw had similar numbers, the M100 was weak based on a blown mosfet so it was only putting out about 350 watts at 4ohm mono.


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

I'm new to the site so this is a new install to me...in for more pics and to follow a fellow sailor.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

...hmm.
COuld it be the input voltage Vs marketing? common in those days of Amp manufacturing?


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Who painted your truck? I have a '68 Continental that's gonna need some satin green.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

sirbOOm said:


> Who painted your truck? I have a '68 Continental that's gonna need some satin green.


Its a shop called ACARS in Virginia Beach, the owners name is Bill. Its the first paint shop I have dealt with where everyone wasnt all smoking dope in the back room. They were very professional and specialize in muscle cars, the painter actually used to live in italy and worked for ferrari for about a decade doing paint.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Navy Chief said:


> Its a shop called ACARS in Virginia Beach, the owners name is Bill. Its the first paint shop I have dealt with where everyone wasnt all smoking dope in the back room. They were very professional and specialize in muscle cars, the painter actually used to live in italy and worked for ferrari for about a decade doing paint.


Excellent. Thank you.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Time to update this thread. I have essentially finished the install and I am just concentrating on cleaning everything up.

I modified the rear seat to fold down so that i could mount amps behind it and still access them.

There are two large tabs in the center of the seat for the latch brackets, they had to be removed to not scratch the amps (very important)





I cut off the entire latch bracket and not just the tab, I didnt want somebody using the latch bracket some day and have it fail so I removed it completely





I also had to cut the tabs on either side that retain the seat to the back wall of the cab, making these shorter allows it to release as it scissors when you fold up the bottom. The tabs are still long enough to engage when the seat is fully lowered.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

After I got the back seat modified I started putting together the amp rack. I only have the long skinny space behind the rear seat but it was just the right amount of room I needed. However because depth is tight I needed to mount directly to the back wall of the cab. I knew that someday I would make changes so I decided to make everything removable, to do this I inserted 8 threaded "nutserts" into the back wall of the cab.





After that I cut some 1/2" MDF to mount the amps to, I was short on material so I used 2 pieces (I should have bought a new sheet). Here are the 2 pieces mocked up after being wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl.



After mock up I reattached my CCF (yoga mat).



Finally I screwed the amp rack over the CCF, the 2 patterns make a nice contrast together.



The final shot with amps and cap/distro installed. I love these amps.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Next I tackled the door midbass. I used some HDPE (cutting board) to cut out a pair of rings to mount to. I actually did not need to cut any metal.



I used threaded brass inserts from Woodcrafters and contersunk the mounted screws.





I installed some stiff foam weatherstripping between the ring and the door panel in a hope to decouple the two.



Ring installed.



Midbass installed.



Door panel installed.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

On to some kick panel work. I did some testing.





Prepped for fiberglass





Wrapped in fleece.



I should have not used fleece, do not use fleece if your going to do finish work. I will post some sanding pics and more sanding pics. I may end up wrapping these in carpet because these are just so rough. More pics to come.


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## Wy2quiet (Jun 29, 2010)

I hope you don't expect any midbass with the gaping holes within inches of the driver in the door :-D


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

Wy2quiet said:


> I hope you don't expect any midbass with the gaping holes within inches of the driver in the door :-D


beat me too it...

love the truck though... can't wait to see what you do with the sub.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Wy2quiet said:


> I hope you don't expect any midbass with the gaping holes within inches of the driver in the door :-D





mattyjman said:


> beat me too it...
> 
> love the truck though... can't wait to see what you do with the sub.


Patience guys, one thing at a time. Don't worry it's on the list, had to see how bad it was first to appreciate the end results later.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

yep. duct seal is your friend. and please dont drill a million holes in the doors with sheet metal screws and stuff mark. i have seen too many people do stuff like that - and while it works, its just asking for rust haha 

sounds great though guys. the stage could be higher, but its really getting there! i got my RTA in the other day - so if you want to see what its really doing, you can come over and use it.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I might take you up on that offer, did you get your printer up an running yet. 

Did you decide if you want to go to the show this weekend.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

i did get the PC working. i dont know what the heck was going wrong with it. ill see if i can mess with some photoshop tonight 

i gotta see if the wife has any plans she has involved me with for this weekend first.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I took some new pics tonight to show you all the most current progress.

I have been cleaning up my wiring this week.



Here is a wide shot of the kick panels



Passenger side



Driver side



The pictures don't do justice to how rough the kick panels turned out. I picked up some graphite carpet today to cover them. I am hoping it will make them more invisible.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

haha nice! i told you the fleece would be a pain in the ass to sand 

i just spent the last few hours photoshopping all the graphics i needed for your stickers. what a pain in the ass 

if you want i can make you a cool signature picture while im at it haha.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Sounds good, send me an email with what it looks like. I was afraid it would be too busy, I was thinking about pulling the bandit head out and putting it by itself on the back window. I still really like the idea of everything in all black. Also was thinking maybe I should add the IASCA logo in case I do an IASCA show this summer. Again I trust your opinion.

By the way I texted you an hour ago, check yo phone!


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

If you cover the kick panels in carpet I believe it will move you into modified, another one of those gray areas I could be wrong though.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

asota said:


> If you cover the kick panels in carpet I believe it will move you into modified, another one of those gray areas I could be wrong though.


Ok, I just read the rules again and I dont see it. I know there has been a lot of discussion of the intent of the rule but I think this is pretty black and white. Kick panels with drivers up to 6.5" are permitted. My guess is that you are referring to the changing of aesthetics forward of the "B" pillar, my question would be how do you build a kick panel and not change aesthetics. In reality my kick panels carpeted are probably less obvious than they were painted. Steve Stern himself is running the show this weekend so I will let him decide, if I am in modified I am ok with that. If I do end up in modified i will probably build my center console sub this summer.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I finally got to go to my first MECA SQL show today. It was a very small 2x event in Collinsville, VA. I got to hang out with some great members of Team DIYMA there and I learned a lot. It was a nice little show to collect some points, and Steve Stern was the SQL judge for my first show. In the end I walked away with:

SQL Best of Show (1 of 3 SQL competitors)
SQL Mod Street 1st (only Mod Street competitor)
RTA Feq Out 1st (only RTA competitor)
SQL Best Install 1st (only install competitor)
Mild Truck 1st (I deserve this)





I had a great time and I learned a lot. I got some great feedback from both Jason and Andy as well as Steve Stern. Now it is time to tune, tune, tune.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

right on mark.

the truck is doing well, it really neecds the fine tuning. sucks that we didnt get it on the RTA on friday.

home theater shack -> REW (room eq wizard or something like that)

and bikinpunk has a tutorial on how to use it on the forum... i dont have a link you will have to search for it.


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## mrmill (Feb 11, 2013)

nice trophy take chief...are you going to any plain ole truck shows this season??


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## GLN305 (Nov 2, 2007)

Navy Chief said:


> I finally got to go to my first MECA SQL show today. It was a very small 2x event in Collinsville, VA. I got to hang out with some great members of Team DIYMA there and I learned a lot. It was a nice little show to collect some points, and Steve Stern was the SQL judge for my first show. In the end I walked away with:
> 
> SQL Best of Show (1 of 3 SQL competitors)
> SQL Mod Street 1st (only Mod Street competitor)
> ...


Congrats, glad to see you did well. Let me know if you ever need a hand with anything on your truck. If you want to finish out those kicks you can cover them in a layer of body filler and sand them smooth, that's really the trick. Sanding the glassed fleece will drive you nuts. I usually just knock down the surface, body fill, sand, sand, sand then if I wanna paint, I use filler primer,sand, and repeat until smooth.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

he wrapped them with unbacked carpet and they look real nice.

he just needs to fabricate a grill for them.


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## asota (Feb 7, 2011)

If Steve gave the go ahead for carpet wrapped kick panels in mod-street that is cool I will order materials to do mine today. Wonder if that will include council and lower dash. The rule was one of those gray areas that did not include carpet as a acoustic treatment that is not allowed, but everyone just assumed it was and never tried it.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

the class says that kick panels are allowed. it does not have a restriction on how they should be finished - because vinyl or paint is MUCH harder than carpet i think it would give professional installers much of an advantage in this area over DIY.

i dont think carpeting interior panels counts as kick panels - and will count as an "acoustic treatment" just like a dash mat or window-filler panels. i would not suggest carpeting interior stuff unless you ask the rules comitte.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

asota said:


> If Steve gave the go ahead for carpet wrapped kick panels in mod-street that is cool I will order materials to do mine today. Wonder if that will include council and lower dash. The rule was one of those gray areas that did not include carpet as a acoustic treatment that is not allowed, but everyone just assumed it was and never tried it.


So Steve and I actually discussed this topic at length during my judging based on your initial comment before the show. I specifically stated to him that some thought that changing the original finish would change the class. He stated that because kick panels were allowed and because the carpet looked "factory" then he in no way felt that the finish should change my class. 

I agree with Andy (req) that I wouldn't go and just start carpeting items of your interior that the factory would not have. That would clearly be an attempt to provide an acoustic treatment and not just trying to integrate an authorized item like kick panels. In my case the carpet made the kick panels look much more like they belonged from the factory, the carpet may have a small acoustic advantage but it is essentially a side effect of trying to hide them.


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## GLN305 (Nov 2, 2007)

req said:


> he wrapped them with unbacked carpet and they look real nice.
> 
> he just needs to fabricate a grill for them.


Oh, sweet. Hopefully we can all get together and I can see them in person.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

I'm thinking about doing a get together on 23 June.


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## tate007 (May 9, 2011)

I don't mean to topic jack, but does anyone have a schedule of Virginia/Maryland/North Carolina sound competitions or car shows?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Start here

Events

If I can think of more ill let you know. Where are you, it says Denver.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

you put the RTA on the truck yet?


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

:Not yet; was planning on doing it this weekend.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So i realized I never posted any pics of the kicks after they were carpeted, so here they are. I am almost done with the grilles, I had the perfect size metal mesh from some old JL grilles.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

So I swore I wasn't going to put tweeters in because I was positive that I could make the full ranges do it all. However the RTA and the height of the sound stage don't lie. The stage is dash height, maybe a bit higher and its missing some depth. I also am losing some material above 16k (airiness) there is a pretty steep drop in the top octaves. So the answer was to add some tweeters in the A pillars to try to correct everything. 

I installed a pair of Dayton ND-29F 1 1/8" silk dome tweeters, provided by Andy (req). I did not want to build big pods, so I decided to mount them from behind using epoxy.

Tweeter with the bezel removed



Hole in the A pillar using a step bit and a bit of sanding.



Hole from the back scuffed for epoxy adhesion.



Tweeters installed, very small footprint.



Drivers side installed.



Passenger side installed.



View from outside



Hid a pair of L-pads in the dash to let me control the output.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

cool beans man!!! i dont think i would have used epoxy LOL - but i guess it works.

all passive n' ****!

how is it working?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Mark, your truck and install are something to be proud of.
It was great to meet you and I hope to hear your truck again in the near future.
Great work.


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## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Notloudenuf said:


> Mark, your truck and install are something to be proud of.
> It was great to meet you and I hope to hear your truck again in the near future.
> Great work.


Thanks so much, never could have done it without the help I got from members here. Hopefully next time you see it I will have made more changes. Thanks again.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Every time a new person saw your truck they all went nuts over the side exit exhaust.


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## rewdog (Apr 30, 2014)

Nice looking truck. I will definitely use some of your ideas when building my system in my extended cab silverado. I am interested in those stealthboxes if you still have them and are not using them.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Mark your truck is truly an amazing truck. Yes that side exhaust is stunning but not good as your amp rack and your sound stage. I look forward to hearing it once again.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

subd


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

I think the M class PG amps are some of the best looking they ever produced. The Outlaw series may very well be the best looking they ever produced. 

Bravo sir... for keeping it real with the Ol' Skool


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