# Cheap door soundproofing



## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

Have any of you checked out this video?





What do you think? Would this be a cheap alternative to something like Focal BAM?
Any other suggestions for very cheap alternatives?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

I didn't catch the name of what he was using, but i would expect it to be mostly asphalt based. So its going to fail in the heat. Check out some of the comments on the Resonix product. Use less of it and get better results.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Do not put that crap in your car. It will turn into a gooey mess in summer heat and make your car wreak of asphalt. Take a few moments and search for this stuff on this forum. You'll see how it has ruined peoples days...

Seriously. This is not a place to save a buck or two. $70 vs. $17 is not that big of a difference when it comes to protecting your car from becoming a tar pit.

Ge0


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## llebcire (Nov 17, 2016)

If you go to the video he has an update 2 years later and has no issues.

I didn’t buy from Home Depot but I did buy 50mil peel and stick from eBay- used it on 2 different cars without issues, odor or melting. 

As always, your mileage will vary but the “no name product” comes from the same factory as the expensive product.

-Eric 


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

llebcire said:


> but the “no name product” comes from the same factory as the expensive product.


110% false

there are some cheap performing products that are indeed overpriced. But going from known quality brands to "no name" brands is not even close in comparison and most likely arent even made on the same side of the planet. Check out the results from the sound deadening test that was done here years ago. The results speak for themselves.


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

I think one of the cheapest you can get that does not have asphalt in it.. that is actually butyl is the noico... still does not compare to higher quality stuff though. For example, I like the stinger roadkill. That roadkill is pretty expensive though.... I have never tried the resonix. I'd probably give the resonix a shot next time i need to do some more deadening. Its just alot of work and time to apply it properly or to remove poor quality stuff.... its not something you want to cheap out on and risk wasted time and money. Ive learned that the hard way when it gets hot. Ive had cheap deadener and cheap generic tessa tape both melt and turn to/release goo when it gets hot.... lesson learned.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

I’ve lost quite a bit in pants over the years because my old car had RAAMAT in it, which was supposed to be a quality car audio brand. Melted in the door and every summer I could find it on the sill below my door. Well, I usually found it with my pants or legs and my wife a few times too. She was none too happy. Save and get the good stuff.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

dgage said:


> I’ve lost quite a bit in pants over the years because my old car had RAAMAT in it, which was supposed to be a quality car audio brand. Melted in the door and every summer I could find it on the sill below my door. Well, I usually found it with my pants or legs and my wife a few times too. She was none too happy. Save and get the good stuff.


Please don't post messages about goo on anyone's leg LOL!!! Sorry. As serious and sometimes sarcastic as I am I can still be a bit childish. I have teenage boys...

Ge0


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## llebcire (Nov 17, 2016)

SkizeR said:


> 110% false
> 
> there are some cheap performing products that are indeed overpriced. But going from known quality brands to "no name" brands is not even close in comparison and most likely arent even made on the same side of the planet. Check out the results from the sound deadening test that was done here years ago. The results speak for themselves.


My point is there’s not a dedicated production facility for every name brand product - as with anything the factory will often sell a similar product under a different name for significant discount. This isn’t always the case and I would advise the end user to research. While I’m sure there are examples where this isn’t the case it’s surely not a 110% false statement.

-Eric 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## llebcire (Nov 17, 2016)

llebcire said:


> If you go to the video he has an update 2 years later and has no issues.
> 
> I didn’t buy from Home Depot but I did buy 50mil peel and stick from eBay- used it on 2 different cars without issues, odor or melting.
> 
> ...


Clarification - I didn’t buy off brand asphalt it was butyl rubber based. That could be why it didn’t melt in the summer.

-Eric


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

llebcire said:


> My point is there’s not a dedicated production facility for every name brand product - as with anything the factory will often sell a similar product under a different name for significant discount. This isn’t always the case and I would advise the end user to research. While I’m sure there are examples where this isn’t the case it’s surely not a 110% false statement.
> 
> -Eric
> 
> ...


You're correct that there isn't a dedicated facility for every brand. Manufacturing butyl and extruding it costs millions. But, you arent correct in that they sell a similar performing product for less. A manufactures prices are based on cost to them and volume. Make a decent product and buy an assload of it: cheaper price (ie: hushmat, dynamat). Make a higher performance product and buy minimum order quantity: expensive (ie: ResoNix). Youre speculating. Dont do that or at least make it known to others that you're speculating

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## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

Ok how about this?








Butyl Sound Deadening Foam Mat voor autopanelen (330x660m)


Shop Butyl Sound Deadening Foam Mat voor autopanelen (330x660m). Een van de vele artikelen die verkrijgbaar zijn bij onze Verhuis- en geluidsisolatiedekens-afdeling hier bij Fruugo!




www.fruugo.be


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

john_dikeman said:


> Ok how about this?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats made by the manufacturer named Lanbo. They make soundskins, sonic barrier, soundshield, focal bam, soundmat, and all of the other popular foam+cld in one brands. You can spot it by the dimensions, how its rolled, and the yellow backing paper. Those are all the same products with a different logo, and are poor performing. Here's some in a friends jeep. He now has to wear a hat if it's over 75 degrees.









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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

I'm going to do my doors this winter and will go with a butyl rubber type product. I put some 50ml Noico in my spare tire well and I believe it reduced road noise (no scientific testing done). I see some products are 100 ml like the KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise Kolossus Sound Deadener so I will go with that on the inside and perhaps 50ml Noico on the outside. Unless a product has some other construction difference I wouldn't differentiate them. I see the Stinger Roadkill Ultimategoes a different direction with a thin butyl layer and a thick foam layer. The foam only dampens high frequencies. Its expensive.


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> Thats made by the manufacturer named Lanbo. They make soundskins, sonic barrier, soundshield, focal bam, soundmat, and all of the other popular foam+cld in one brands. You can spot it by the dimensions, how its rolled, and the yellow backing paper. Those are all the same products with a different logo, and are poor performing. Here's some in a friends jeep. He now has to wear a hat if it's over 75 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ROLLED? Yikes 😬 this is a perfect example of a product claiming to be “butyl” and not being true.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

cman said:


> ROLLED? Yikes  this is a perfect example of a product claiming to be “butyl” and not being true.


No, its butyl. Just a super cheap formula that is clearly not thought out for automotive use. And yes, you can also spot a poor performing cld if it comes rolled. If its rolled, pass. This deforms the butyl layer and causes it to not have ideal viscoelastic properties when you put it back into place (flat)

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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

I do think some companies like dynamat overcharge for their products but for the most part, you get what you pay for.
My opinion for what it’s worth... I won’t be the test dummy... read reviews and talk to people... No reviews.... no way I’m using it... my thoughts are if people that live in a hotter climate than I do (like Florida) can use a product and it does not melt... that’s a good start. Good adhesion is a must, and most importantly ... does it dampen vibrations well!? That’s just my .02


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> No, its butyl. Just a super cheap formula that is clearly not thought out for automotive use. And yes, you can also spot a poor performing cld if it comes rolled. If its rolled, pass. This deforms the butyl layer and causes it to not have ideal viscoelastic properties when you put it back into place (flat)
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Interesting. Good to know. That’s scary stuff, your vehicle is almost totaled at that point. That’s a SIGNIFICANT amount of work to even try and get that stuff off


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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

I'm not sure of the technicalities here but if we are trying to absorb road noise ie low frequency I am not sure how successful we can be. I have some bass traps in my music room and some of them are 4 inches thick and 2 in the corners are 20 inches thick. I wouldn't be doing this if I could have got away with 100 ml of butyl


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Matti777 said:


> I'm not sure of the technicalities here but if we are trying to absorb road noise ie low frequency I am not sure how successful we can be. I have some bass traps in my music room and some of them are 4 inches thick and 2 in the corners are 20 inches thick. I wouldn't be doing this if I could have got away with 100 ml of butyl


i don't think anyone is talking about absorbing low frequency road noise. That would be nearly pointless in a car since absorption is related to the thickness of the absorbing material, as you hinted


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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> i don't think anyone is talking about absorbing low frequency road noise. That would be nearly pointless in a car since absorption is related to the thickness of the absorbing material, as you hinted


Agreed but people often talk about reducing road noise which interferes with car audio so I thought I would mention it. We can dampen it a little but that is all


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Matti777 said:


> Agreed but people often talk about reducing road noise which interferes with car audio so I thought I would mention it. We can dampen it a little but that is all


In car audio we block noise, no absorb. We use a noise barrier for that. Usually Mass Loaded Vinyl, or MLV for short. It uses mass to block noise instead of a thick absorbing material

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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> In car audio we block noise, no absorb. We use a noise barrier for that. Usually Mass Loaded Vinyl, or MLV for short. It uses mass to block noise instead of a thick absorbing material
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I love MLV. It’s just so expensive and heavy. I’m plotting out a way now to quiet the road noise in my current vehicle. So far I’ve only done deadener on the front doors. It’s great for vibration but I really want to block out the road noise like when I get on the freeway...

I’m thinking MLV..


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## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

OK, how about this... Among these options what do you think is the best cheapest bet for dampening 2 doors?





Dempingsmaterialen


Absorberen, isoleren, ontdreunen en isoleren van trilling. Dat is wat je met dempingsmateriaal wil bereiken. Onderschat niet de toegevoegde waarde van het dempen van bijvoorbeeld uw autodeur bij het plaatsen van nieuwe autospeakers.




www.caraudioshop.nl


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## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

Or this Silent Coat. Silent Coat vibrodemping


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## speedczar (May 31, 2020)

interesting read.


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## THX0849 (Sep 24, 2019)

If Lanbo makes stuff for soundskin then they definitely have a different line or material for them. I used it very extensively in my car all over. Only part untouched was the roof and floor. It's been almost a year with 0 issues. Not even a hint of melting or gooping. As a matter of fact i replaced the front door speaker adapters just over a month ago and it was perfect, exactly where i put it. I'm in Miami so it definitely does get hot here. The paper backing on my product was white with their name on it not yellow. Maybe a new supplier as i got my stuff in October 2019. 

Not saying it can compare to Resonix or anything but I am sorry happy with it. 

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## fabled (Oct 29, 2009)

If you are in europe, check reckhorn abx-tra. They have a website. Godd quality for the price.


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

THX0849 said:


> If Lanbo makes stuff for soundskin then they definitely have a different line or material for them. I used it very extensively in my car all over. Only part untouched was the roof and floor. It's been almost a year with 0 issues. Not even a hint of melting or gooping. As a matter of fact i replaced the front door speaker adapters just over a month ago and it was perfect, exactly where i put it. I'm in Miami so it definitely does get hot here. The paper backing on my product was white with their name on it not yellow. Maybe a new supplier as i got my stuff in October 2019.
> 
> Not saying it can compare to Resonix or anything but I am sorry happy with it.
> 
> Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk


Can you clarify what the product that you used was? Lanbo or soundskin? Thanks


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## THX0849 (Sep 24, 2019)

SoundSkinsPro got the Shop pack as the 4 door kit I originally wanted was out of stock. Plus first orders got 15% discount! LOL


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## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

Great thanks i ordered the abx-tra.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

cman said:


> Can you clarify what the product that you used was? Lanbo or soundskin? Thanks


Lanbo is a manufacturer in china. Your average person cannot just buy from them, unless you personally want a shipping container of sound deadener. They are who makes all of the typical foam and cld combo products.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

fabled said:


> If you are in europe, check reckhorn abx-tra. They have a website. Godd quality for the price.


comes in a roll it seems like. be weary


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

THX0849 said:


> If Lanbo makes stuff for soundskin then they definitely have a different line or material for them. I used it very extensively in my car all over. Only part untouched was the roof and floor. It's been almost a year with 0 issues. Not even a hint of melting or gooping. As a matter of fact i replaced the front door speaker adapters just over a month ago and it was perfect, exactly where i put it. I'm in Miami so it definitely does get hot here. The paper backing on my product was white with their name on it not yellow. Maybe a new supplier as i got my stuff in October 2019.
> 
> Not saying it can compare to Resonix or anything but I am sorry happy with it.
> 
> Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk


Soundskins went through i think 3 iterations over the time it was being distributed by a particular person in the US. one or two of those had major issues. You may have lucked out, and the paper backing may have changed. The supplier has not changed though


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## Donanon (Sep 13, 2013)

Seven years ago when I first decided to install a good system in my car and knew nothing I wasted a bunch of money and effort on junk like FatMat and other hardware store products, then I found this forum and Sound Deadener Showdown. What a revelation that was. Good quality sound improvement products may seem expensive but if you use them properly they are worth every penny. For your money you get effective long lasting products which increase your enjoyment of music substantially.


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## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> Thats made by the manufacturer named Lanbo. They make soundskins, sonic barrier, soundshield, focal bam, soundmat, and all of the other popular foam+cld in one brands. You can spot it by the dimensions, how its rolled, and the yellow backing paper. Those are all the same products with a different logo, and are poor performing. Here's some in a friends jeep. He now has to wear a hat if it's over 75 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Holy hell. That is absolutely horrific. I was actually considering using that stuff on my next build as combining the cld and foam seemed like a smart idea. Didn't know about the roll thing either. 

Would you say your product is equivalent to the SDS tiles?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

GMCtrk said:


> Holy hell. That is absolutely horrific. I was actually considering using that stuff on my next build as combining the cld and foam seemed like a smart idea. Didn't know about the roll thing either.
> 
> Would you say your product is equivalent to the SDS tiles?


If you want the REW file to see the test results for SDS on a very similar test rig that chris used for the tests here, I can send it to you. 

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## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> If you want the REW file to see the test results for SDS on a very similar test rig that chris used for the tests here, I can send it to you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I'd simply want to know about the physical characteristics of the product - will it hold up to heat as well as the SDS tiles. I've got most of my truck done in SDS tiles, and it's frequently 100* or north here in Dallas. No smell, runs or anything. I do also have dynamat extreme in the doors also with good result.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

GMCtrk said:


> I'd simply want to know about the physical characteristics of the product - will it hold up to heat as well as the SDS tiles. I've got most of my truck done in SDS tiles, and it's frequently 100* or north here in Dallas. No smell, runs or anything. I do also have dynamat extreme in the doors also with good result.


Itll hold up. I tested both in my oven at different heat settings in one go. Made it up to the "clean" setting before both were still stuck to the metal but the butyl was boiling lol. Didnt really sag or fall off though. Theres a member here that lives in Phoenix who has some installed on the hot side of his 4x4 exhaust heat shield. Its still fine to this day (well, as of 3 or so weeks ago when I saw him post last about it)

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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Matti777 said:


> Agreed but people often talk about reducing road noise which interferes with car audio so I thought I would mention it. We can dampen it a little but that is all


Adding CLD to sheetmetal "reduces" road noise basically through the addition of weight, pushing the resonant frequency lower, which helps, a little.


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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

That would explain why full coverage isn't required but perhaps it is moving the resonant frequency to stop rattling from the woofer though?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Talking strictly about speakers, it doesn't really have to do with lowering the resonant frequency of the panel. It has to do with preventing resonance from the get go. Killing it regardless which frequency it is or what the resonant frequency of the panel is. CLD does this by Constraining via viscoelastic properties of the butyl, and the aluminum providing a reference for the butyl. Shear force between the two layers acts as resistance to the flexing/vibrating panel. Its like running with your typical gym attire vs running covered in a 55 gallon drum vs of molasses.. resistance 

CLD can lower road noise a bit, but its not as efficient as doing a proper noise barrier. If you're noticing a lower noise floor from just cld, its mostly just because the structure borne vibration (aka, resonance) was bad enough before to make an audible difference after the fact. Its also adding mass which does block noise, but its not decoupled from the source, so not as efficient 

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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Matti777 said:


> That would explain why full coverage isn't required but perhaps it is moving the resonant frequency to stop rattling from the woofer though?


Full coverage isn't required because most panels respond really well to just 25% coverage. CLD treats "ringing" of the sheetmetal, not much else, the extra mass added to the panel is what lowers the resonant frequency, which is usually beneficial. It won't stop rattles, it'll just change their frequency.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

john_dikeman said:


> OK, how about this... Among these options what do you think is the best cheapest bet for dampening 2 doors?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Dampening sheets I use are 2.5mm butyl with a 0.1mm aluminum barrier and work great. Based on your available selections in your country try the 2mm stuff at 1/2 the cost. I you have one especially resonant region then apply a 2nd cheaper square. I don't know much about Dynamat latest offerings so can't comment.

Ge0


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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

Ge0 said:


> Dampening sheets I use are 2.5mm butyl with a 0.1mm aluminum barrier and work great. ..
> Ge0


 Who makes that?


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## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

so each time this topic pops up, I get it you have to pay to play. Outside of the old SDS tiles, Resonix, and dynamat is there any other product worth my time? I am going to do my sons front doors when we install speakers and really want to install and forget it. I dont want anything that we are going to have to go back in and fix, scrape off, or deal with leaks


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Jroo said:


> so each time this topic pops up, I get it you have to pay to play. Outside of the old SDS tiles, Resonix, and dynamat is there any other product worth my time?


IIRC from the MOACLDTT (mother of all constrained layer damping testing threads) the KnuKonceptz Kolossus tested in the top 3.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

Matti777 said:


> Who makes that?


I really don't like throwing names out for fear of being considered a fan boy. But, it looks a little like this...









Ge0


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## Coolhand20th (Aug 13, 2020)

Just out of curiosity what do you guys think about Kilmat? I have 50sqft of it sitting here nib for when I get around to doing the doors on my '03 Ford Explorer XLT.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Coolhand20th said:


> Just out of curiosity what do you guys think about Kilmat? I have 50sqft of it sitting here nib for when I get around to doing the doors on my '03 Ford Explorer XLT.


Kilmat is made by the same manufacturer that makes noico, except its a cheaper version. Put it this way, I wouldn't even waste my time installing noico.


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## cman (Aug 24, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> Kilmat is made by the same manufacturer that makes noico, except its a cheaper version. Put it this way, I wouldn't even waste my time installing noico.



That's so funny you say that. I was looking at the two products and their packaging... and I was like geez, these sure do look similar.... my suspicions were correct... interesting. 

I've personally used the noico. It works good compared to nothing and has held up through a hot summer. But as to its performance Its the only product I have ever used so it's hard to compare it to anything else. After reading all the reviews and testimonials on other more highly regarded products it makes me wonder what I'm missing out on and im regretting using it. I'm soon upgrading my mid woofers to something with more excursion and mid bass than I'm currently using so that may bring out the weaknesses in the cheaper product I have used. 

Luckily I've only applied it to two doors. I've learned my lesson cheaping out on stuff. I've replaced multiple amps, speakers,dsp's and more because I wanted to get a good deal on something and then i ended up spening more because in the end i bought the good product and wasted my time and $$ on the crappy products.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Jroo said:


> so each time this topic pops up, I get it you have to pay to play. Outside of the old SDS tiles, Resonix, and dynamat is there any other product worth my time? I am going to do my sons front doors when we install speakers and really want to install and forget it. I dont want anything that we are going to have to go back in and fix, scrape off, or deal with leaks


Stinger Roadkill.


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## riceandpho (Dec 30, 2009)

anyone remember years ago, there was a sound deadener that you have to apply with a heat gun? i seen a few pics of it, i wonder if it was from stinger, but the sheets were almost like abs sheets.


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## LumbermanSVO (Nov 11, 2009)

seafish said:


> IIRC from the MOACLDTT (mother of all constrained layer damping testing threads) the KnuKonceptz Kolossus tested in the top 3.


My take away from that test was:

Peel-N-Seel was pretty much worthless

Dynamat Extreme had the best performance per pound
SDS had the best performance per dollar
Knu Koncepts (the thicker of the two) had the best performance overall

Almost everything else was significantly better than Peel-N-Seel, but not as good as the others. So if you were going to spend the time and money, you might as well spend a little extra money and use one the three above, depending on your use case.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

riceandpho said:


> anyone remember years ago, there was a sound deadener that you have to apply with a heat gun? i seen a few pics of it, i wonder if it was from stinger, but the sheets were almost like abs sheets.


No deadener should be applied with a heat gun. It breaks down the butyl and lowers its performance if it gets too hot

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## ashleyparkOU (Jun 22, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> Kilmat is made by the same manufacturer that makes noico, except its a cheaper version. Put it this way, I wouldn't even waste my time installing noico.


 Have you ever heard of Standartplast ? 



Amazon.com



Can't find much about it. From what i've been told it's popular overseas but is just recent being sold in the USA. They sell butyl deadener, PE foam and MLV


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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> Talking strictly about speakers, it doesn't really have to do with lowering the resonant frequency of the panel. It has to do with preventing resonance from the get go. Killing it regardless which frequency it is or what the resonant frequency of the panel is. ....


Not to be argumentative but the panel still has a resonant frequency. You can only change the frequency. Adding weight reduces that frequency and stiffening the panel increases it. They can even negate each other. Resonance may or may not be an issue with a given panel. Of course the energy present at higher frequencies is lower.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Matti777 said:


> Not to be argumentative but the panel still has a resonant frequency. You can only change the frequency. Adding weight reduces that frequency and stiffening the panel increases it. They can even negate each other. Resonance may or may not be an issue with a given panel. Of course the energy present at higher frequencies is lower.


False. A constrained layer damper reduces the resonance as a whole. Not just change the resonant frequency. 

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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ashleyparkOU said:


> Have you ever heard of Standartplast ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Standartplast is STP, and this is who makes noico, kilmat, etc. Not something I would ever use again. 

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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> False. A constrained layer damper reduces the resonance as a whole. Not just change the resonant frequency.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


only if it is absorbing energy. Lets face it....no one would consciously build an enclosure out of a thin layer of metal covered with plastic. It needs to be stiffer.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Matti777 said:


> only if it is absorbing energy. Lets face it....no one would consciously build an enclosure out of a thin layer of metal covered with plastic. It needs to be stiffer.


If you say so 

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## Matti777 (Aug 27, 2020)

If somebody is really bored they can test the response in a door that has been mechanically stiffened. It would be interesting.


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## gjmallory (Apr 13, 2010)

SkizeR said:


> No deadener should be applied with a heat gun. It breaks down the butyl and lowers its performance if it gets too hot
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Curious to hear what you think of Vibraflex? 


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## gjmallory (Apr 13, 2010)

gjmallory said:


> Curious to hear what you think of Vibraflex?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


And would be cool if you tested it!


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

gjmallory said:


> Curious to hear what you think of Vibraflex?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I only have 1 experience with it.. cleaning it out of the bottom of a customers door who installed it a year before he took the car to me. Seems like it expands and contracts a lot with temperature and it cracked into a bunch of pieces and the adhesive failed and it was all sitting in the bottom of this guys door. 

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## DiamondFanatic (Dec 26, 2007)

I’m always entertained by how many people waste a lot of time trying to save $30-50 on a pack of CLD 😀 I can’t understand why someone would risk odor and oozing (in addition to performance implications) in their expensive vehicle over that amount of cost.

The Stinger products are also made in China and looked similar enough to some of the offbrand products that I skipped them and just went with Dynamat Xtreme again. I also used Hushmat Ultra. Both of them are made in the USA. Timing didn’t work this time but I would like to try Resonix in the future because the CCF from them was great quality.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Matti777 said:


> only if it is absorbing energy.


That's exactly what it does.


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## wrxkyle (Feb 8, 2011)

Matti777 said:


> only if it is absorbing energy. Lets face it....no one would consciously build an enclosure out of a thin layer of metal covered with plastic. It needs to be stiffer.


that's the whole point of constrained layer dampening, it converts the mechanical energy to heat, and is why asphalt based products don't work well at all because they only add weight and don't have the same mechanical properties. 

these products serve a similar function to those little rubbery things in tennis racket strings, dampen vibration and convert to (a small amount) of heat.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

john_dikeman said:


> Have any of you checked out this video?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think concrete works, don't know about the cost to fill a door though.


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## wrxkyle (Feb 8, 2011)

ckirocz28 said:


> I think concrete works, don't know about the cost to fill a door though.


yep concrete works extremely well with the minor drawbacks of weight, and window clearance. though would be interesting to see someone try to use layers of cement board and green glue.....


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## lucas569 (Apr 17, 2007)

wrxkyle said:


> yep concrete works extremely well with the minor drawbacks of weight, and window clearance. though would be interesting to see someone try to use layers of cement board and green glue.....


Ha in the 90s I knew a couple people that used concrete in the doors. Crazy days back then 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

lucas569 said:


> Ha in the 90s I knew a couple people that used concrete in the doors. Crazy days back then
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same here, that's exactly why I mentioned it. I've also heard of people sandwiching roofing compound (tar-like, but not tar) between the sheetmetal and a layer of plywood.


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## wrxkyle (Feb 8, 2011)

i kinda like the idea a facebook poster had of using cuts of c-channel attached with a (polyurethane?) adhesive to the insides of the door skins to make structural stiffening and then deadening between/over them. seems like a cheap simple solution, inside the door there's lot's of space in reality for something like aluminum or steel c channel.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

wrxkyle said:


> i kinda like the idea a facebook poster had of using cuts of c-channel attached with a (polyurethane?) adhesive to the insides of the door skins to make structural stiffening and then deadening between/over them. seems like a cheap simple solution, inside the door there's lot's of space in reality for something like aluminum or steel c channel.


Yeah. I did that back in 2008. Depends on the vehicle and if it is needed. The sheet metal was flat and thin on this SUV. So, I added braces:









2004 Dodge Durango - simple system


Jason, To be honest I only began to understand what you were talking about a few days ago. Great idea. But, I don't think it will work in this instance. I need to add glass from the inside to preserve the overall size of the outer surface of the enclosure on the outside. I could make two...




www.diymobileaudio.com





Ge0


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## john_dikeman (Aug 20, 2020)

So in the end I bought some proper stuff.... Have a bit left over. So far I did both front doors, trunk space under subwoofer, front floor drivers side to cover engine noise.
What do you think for the extra couple sheets. Floor by engine passenger side or inside the rear door? I have the sub facing the rear door to bounce the sound off it.


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## ashleyparkOU (Jun 22, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> Standartplast is STP, and this is who makes noico, kilmat, etc. Not something I would ever use again.


 Couldn't find much about them originally but I did find a thread a few years back where a forum user tested tons of different brands. The STP Silver was middle of the pack and the STP gold was basically on par with dynamat extreme


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ashleyparkOU said:


> Couldn't find much about them originally but I did find a thread a few years back where a forum user tested tons of different brands. The STP Silver was middle of the pack and the STP gold was basically on par with dynamat extreme


Yup. Chris tested a ton, and he's doing another test again. If you're on Facebook, join the group "The Deadening" 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## SLM (Nov 29, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> If you want the REW file to see the test results for SDS on a very similar test rig that chris used for the tests here, I can send it to you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


How is your product doing in very hot weather, REALLY HOT? Do you have any testing information? What about heat insulation as you mentioned you focusing on butyl thickness than aluminum?

Thinking about (Car Builders Sound Deadener - Australia) because they are accustomed to extreme hot weather.


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## equanox1 (Nov 28, 2020)

I know people have mentioned noico here, but let me mention their are multiple mil thicknesses to choose from which does effect the overall acoustics In a car or whatever application you’re using it for. I personally have only used Rockville rockmat and noico in my car. The stuff will Never be seen, and as far as becoming gummy when it’s really hot in the car, I’ve never had a problem out of rockmat or noico. Both are about the most budget friendly sound deadening products you can get plus does the job. Also let me mention, noico has sound deadening products that aren’t just strictly butyl rubber but also sheets of a composite foam material with a thin layer of butyl rubber. Noico is good stuff regardless of how much someone may bash them. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions and preferences, and personally, coming from a sound engineering background as well as being an audiophile and having a love for spl and sq in my car, I cannot afford high dollar products that serve the same exact purpose as the cost effective products. Your extra dollar is only paying for a ‘brand’ name.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

equanox1 said:


> I know people have mentioned noico here, but let me mention their are multiple mil thicknesses to choose from which does effect the overall acoustics In a car or whatever application you’re using it for. I personally have only used Rockville rockmat and noico in my car. The stuff will Never be seen, and as far as becoming gummy when it’s really hot in the car, I’ve never had a problem out of rockmat or noico. Both are about the most budget friendly sound deadening products you can get plus does the job. Also let me mention, noico has sound deadening products that aren’t just strictly butyl rubber but also sheets of a composite foam material with a thin layer of butyl rubber. Noico is good stuff regardless of how much someone may bash them. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions and preferences, and personally, coming from a sound engineering background as well as being an audiophile and having a love for spl and sq in my car, I cannot afford high dollar products that serve the same exact purpose as the cost effective products. Your extra dollar is only paying for a ‘brand’ name.


I have rockmat sitting in my shop to test it. It came as one big goopy mess.

Your extra dollar isn't exactly paying for a brand name. Its (hopefully) paying for a product that actually has a good butyl formula that kills resonance effectively while also not turning to **** in an automotive environment. The problem is, there are a ton of products that cost a ton that cannot do this, so most people just think its one big cash grab. Its not


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> ...
> Make a decent product and buy an assload of it: cheaper price (ie: hushmat, dynamat).
> ...


Are Hushmat and dynamat made by the same manufacturer?

or did you just group them together based on similar performance?


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Chris12 said:


> Are Hushmat and dynamat made by the same manufacturer?
> 
> or did you just group them together based on similar performance?


No, they are. dynamat is better than hushmat though


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## GotAudio (Nov 22, 2020)

Not sure if anyone has mentioned Noico sound deadener yet but I used this on my car.

Excellent sound deadener and aggressively priced.

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening Amazon.com: Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Automotive


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

for those that want to see how ResoNix performs against the previous leader, Sound Deadener Showdown, tune into the live video at 7:30pst on the facebook group "The Deadening". Chris is finally starting his official room temp resonance testing tonight!



https://www.facebook.com/groups/651457188787366


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## SLM (Nov 29, 2020)

SLM said:


> How is your product doing in very hot weather, REALLY HOT? Do you have any testing information? What about heat insulation as you mentioned you focusing on butyl thickness than aluminum?
> 
> Thinking about (Car Builders Sound Deadener - Australia) because they are accustomed to extreme hot weather.


SkizeR, Still looking for your feedback.


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## 619Tundra (Sep 24, 2020)

SkizeR said:


> i don't think anyone is talking about absorbing low frequency road noise. That would be nearly pointless in a car since absorption is related to the thickness of the absorbing material, as you hinted


I'm looking to buy some sound deadening material today. What do you recommend? I have a Tundra Double Cab. Want to do the back doors and rear seat area.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

619Tundra said:


> I'm looking to buy some sound deadening material today. What do you recommend? I have a Tundra Double Cab. Want to do the back doors and rear seat area.


I recommend ResoNix. It was tested just last night by another member here and beat out the previous leader by a decent margin. 

www.resonixsoundsolutions.com 

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