# Best RCA cables?



## PriusNnyc

*Opinions for great shielded RCA cables?*

Looking for what cables people have used and are happy with. I'm using Kicker Z-series that I got here. But these I think are not shielded enough for where I'm running it. So...I've seen some advertised online, but don't have any experience with brands like Lanzar, or absolute. 

Any suggestions on who makes great shielded RCA cable??

Thanks!


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## TREETOP

I've mostly made my own RCAs over the years, with Belden wire and Neutrik ProFi ends. A while back I tried out some Krystal RCAs from Knukonceptz, and I was impressed enough to keep them- They're less expensive than my homemade ones and they don't "sound" any different. I'm running them throughout my whole system now.
RCA Cables


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## azngotskills

You are just opening a can of worms  I personally buy what ever is in the Hot Deals section but I really havent heard any difference in RCAs, even the ones from Wal-mart


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## Lanson

Simple coax works wonders.


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## blazeplacid

i used Rockfords mid line rca from ebay

no real need to pay alot of money


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## don_chuwish

azngotskills said:


> You are just opening a can of worms


LOL, I had the same reaction, knowing how cable discussions usually go around here. But I know the problem he's facing, from a thread in PriusChat: whine. Seemingly from running close to the hybrid battery power lines. Thus the question about good shielding I think.

Right PriusNYC? Since you asked for "Best" I was tempted to link you off to Kimber but even I'm not that crazy.

- D


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## PriusNnyc

Yeah, sorry, don't mean to get a big debate going...I know it's subjective and all. But Don is right, I'm having trouble with interference with the hybrid battery. I've tried a few different options to get rid of the high pitched noise I'm getting through the system and I'm thinking right now that my current cables are just not shielded well enough. Since I don't have experience with other brands, I am asking for opinions - not a debate.

Sorry if it's a bad phrasing of the title...think I changed it acceptably.


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## azngotskills

I would run balanced signal like Zapco Symbilink or digital/opitcal if possible...that why you wont have any noise. What amps and HU are you using?


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## PriusNnyc

Head unit is a Kenwood x993. The amp is an Alpine PDX-5 :curtain: (I know how much love people have for those on here...)


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## azngotskills

LOL have you considered that actually the Alpine PDX is the source or highly contributing to your noise problem? Also, in most cases RCAs are not the cause of the noise but there is something else in the signal chain or system causing the noise


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## PriusNnyc

Yes, I have. Sorry, I should be clearer about my problems although I did mention it in another post so I just didn't want to repeat the same thing. But the noise only happens when the car is fully on - not in ACC mode. And before I undid the run of RCA cabling I made earlier, I unplugged the HU and just ran a different wire sort of straight from the back (where the amp is) to the front (over the seats, etc.) The noise went away. So...I guess I've been thinking that because of those two things, the amp is probably okay. Would you suggest otherwise?


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## azngotskills

Well by that, it may be that you are having a noise problems with your signal. Like I said if you want to be completely noise free, go balanced or digital, and yes both are quite pricey. If you are just looking for different RCAs, I have not had any noise problems with Kicker S-series, Knu Krystal, Ixos R600 series which I have used recently.


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## Lanson

Really, nobody uses coax?


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## stalintc

I have tried using coax before that I purchased from PE. I used the Neutric connectors that are cheap. I ended up having a ground loop issue once I installed them. I went back to my monster 401xln cables with no problem. 

Now, for the record I had little to no idea what single ended even met, let alone shielding techniques, and certainly did believe that since my monster cable was thick it was better....

When I make cables now I use PE mic cable with Neutric connectors with no problems.


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## ErinH

fourthmeal said:


> Really, nobody uses coax?


I do.

In a nutshell, coax is great for unbalanced setups due to superior noise rejection. If you have the luxury of running balanced, then that's better. 

Here's a good link about coax cable:
Hum Rejection in Unbalanced Audio Cables -- Blue Jeans Cable


I wound up ordering the belden 1505f. Very flexible.


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## kyheng

I'm using silver plated coaxial cables with no problem at all. And it do sound better than Knu's Krystal RCA, atleast on the high details.


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## Lanson

kyheng said:


> I'm using silver plated coaxial cables with no problem at all. And it do sound better than Knu's Krystal RCA, atleast on the high details.


And like most people here, I would say that as long as the impedance and inductance weren't significantly off kilter, I doubt you could even hear the difference.


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## Bluepelican31

I just make my own in part for custom colors and size, and I feel good to DIY. I spoke to a real old school radio store owner the other day and he said that no one would be able to hear a difference in noise from ghetto cables to high and homemade. Homemade and highend cables are going to last a lot longer. He called it a lifetime warranty making them yourself.


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## kyheng

fourthmeal : I have to look for some facts to deny your statements.... For the time being, I agree with you on this(The fact is, I won't waste time on looking those facts).... For my case, I guess it do have very low impedence. Another project will be done once I get full silver plated, currently is 1 side silver plated and another is steel.


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## Lanson

kyheng said:


> fourthmeal : I have to look for some facts to deny your statements.... For the time being, I agree with you on this(The fact is, I won't waste time on looking those facts).... For my case, I guess it do have very low impedence. Another project will be done once I get full silver plated, currently is 1 side silver plated and another is steel.


ZED AUDIO CORPORATION

And werewolf aka lycan's own DIYMA breakthroughs are on this forum as well:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/7517-science-cables.html


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## SullyTT

Have you tried wrapping the RCAs in foil and grounding the foil? I've heard of some success with that for noise rejection.


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## don_chuwish

bikinpunk said:


> I do.
> 
> In a nutshell, coax is great for unbalanced setups due to superior noise rejection. If you have the luxury of running balanced, then that's better.
> 
> Here's a good link about coax cable:
> Hum Rejection in Unbalanced Audio Cables -- Blue Jeans Cable


Great article. Funny, I was looking at a 6ft RCA brand RCA cable on the pegboard at Lowe's yesterday. It was double braid shielded, gold plated plugs, $12. Made me wonder how effective the double braiding was and now I have some reading to help. Didn't see one long enough to help the OP tho.

- D


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## PriusNnyc

So, just to follow up: I ended up buying the Knu Konceptz Krystal Kable and sure enough, my high pitch is gone! Yipee! :rockon:

The cable is the real deal: despite being a tad difficult to run because of the thickness, with their triple shielding, great price (nothing else seems to compare with the specs), and the fact that they shipped ASAP, I'm a believer and convert. They work/sound great! I highly recommend them.

So, thanks for all the info and help. Now I can get back to listening and tweaking my new stereo...


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## chipss

seems like a good cable.....just changed the sound....muhahaha


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## don_chuwish

chipss said:


> seems like a good cable.....just changed the sound....muhahaha


LOL, you just had to say it. But you're correct of course, shielding is usually treated as an afterthought in the whole RCL argument but obviously it makes a difference.

I was curious about these cables and just how the shielding was implemented. So I Googled and found someone who had torn them open. So I Kracked open some KNu Krystal RCA Kable - Stereo Integrity Forums

They complain that none of the shield layers are grounded, but obviously they've helped the OP here. Congrats PriusNyc!

- D


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## chipss

I for one believe there is no absolute answer to every noise problem, my approach is this.

Learn as much as I can about different ideas, if I have a noise issue, start using what I have learned.

Use good stuff, I have had so many cheep guitar cables give me problems over the years I just don’t buy the cheapest one I can, why would I use great car audio equipment only to use a cheep ass cable? I just don’t get some peoples logic , likewise I don’t buy into mega buck cables either, there is a middle ground here someplace, I like to find good cables on sale.

I don’t feel anyone has the perfect and absolute answer to every noise issue in audio. 

there many ways to shield an rca, shield, no shield ,shielded but not grounded, both sides, or ground only one side, moving grounds sometimes works, 
Keeping signal away from b+, re grounding rca,s at the head, bussing grounds, un bussing grounds, turning the freaking gain down, must be a ton of ways 
To deal with noise issues, and sometimes the one someone tells you will not work, well it’s the one that ends up working… 

I am glad you fixed your noise issue, they can be a real PITA to find. 





don_chuwish said:


> LOL, you just had to say it. But you're correct of course, shielding is usually treated as an afterthought in the whole RCL argument but obviously it makes a difference.
> 
> I was curious about these cables and just how the shielding was implemented. So I Googled and found someone who had torn them open. So I Kracked open some KNu Krystal RCA Kable - Stereo Integrity Forums
> 
> They complain that none of the shield layers are grounded, but obviously they've helped the OP here. Congrats PriusNyc!
> 
> - D


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## enduro

I've never really heard any difference in SQ in any RCA brands. But, I usually buy Monster Cable because it can be bought for cheap at Princess Auto stores in Canada.


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## singleton

How do the Karma SS 2 Channel 6 Meter RCA Cable compare to the Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable?


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## tyroneshoes

I like rockford riot or RF matrix just because they reject noise and look awesome.

Cheap on ebay and used to be excessively expensive.


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## singleton

tyroneshoes said:


> I like rockford riot or RF helix just because they reject noise and look awesome.
> 
> Cheap on ebay and used to be excessively expensive.


Just checked on ebay and the rockford riot is more than twice expensive than the Krystal Kable!


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## tyroneshoes

Well, different sellers pop up. Mine were $20 a pop


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## Cooter69

On my last built I went with Knukonceptz RCA's. Ordered up a 4 channel and 2 channel setup and worked great! Now havea higher kicker 2 channel rca's for my simple build(one 12" sub, LOL) and doing great! Just avoid walmart rca's or other similar and you should be fine.


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## Toslink

I've been making my interconnects using stranded (patch cords vs. bulk in-wall cable, which is of a solid-core design) CAT5e for more than 10 years and have never found the cable to be the source of noise problems if they creep into the installation, which is quite infrequent. To make the cable ends look "nice" I use high-quality Nakamichi RCA plugs with 6mm openings, which are available in bulk on eBay. I cut the cable's sheath 6" from the end and cover each cable pair with clear shrink tubing. 

I'll admit, though, that for short 2-channel cable lengths, it's often more cost-effective to buy mid-level twisted-pair cables from companies like Rockford Fosgate or KnuKonceptz.

I've always followed these guidelines to ensure the chances of cable-induced noise is kept to a minimum:

* Use twisted-pair interconnect cabling
* Keep interconnect cable lengths to a minimum
* Avoid coiling cables
* Use audio components with a low output impedance
* Prefer components with a high output voltage (> 2.0v RMS)

--david


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## Richv72

I chose mine based on looks, got the stinger 8000 series.


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## adrenalinejunkie

Toslink said:


> I've been making my interconnects using stranded (patch cords vs. bulk in-wall cable, which is of a solid-core design) CAT5e for more than 10 years and have never found the cable to be the source of noise problems if they creep into the installation, which is quite infrequent. To make the cable ends look "nice" I use high-quality Nakamichi RCA plugs with 6mm openings, which are available in bulk on eBay. I cut the cable's sheath 6" from the end and cover each cable pair with clear shrink tubing.
> 
> I'll admit, though, that for short 2-channel cable lengths, it's often more cost-effective to buy mid-level twisted-pair cables from companies like Rockford Fosgate or KnuKonceptz.
> 
> I've always followed these guidelines to ensure the chances of cable-induced noise is kept to a minimum:
> 
> * Use twisted-pair interconnect cabling
> * Keep interconnect cable lengths to a minimum
> * Avoid coiling cables
> * Use audio components with a low output impedance
> * Prefer components with a high output voltage (> 2.0v RMS)
> 
> --david




I should try making my own. I use Knu Krystal's.


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## bbfoto

Toslink said:


> I've been making my interconnects using stranded (patch cords vs. bulk in-wall cable, which is of a solid-core design) CAT5e for more than 10 years and have never found the cable to be the source of noise problems if they creep into the installation, which is quite infrequent. To make the cable ends look "nice" I use high-quality Nakamichi RCA plugs with 6mm openings, which are available in bulk on eBay. I cut the cable's sheath 6" from the end and cover each cable pair with clear shrink tubing.
> 
> I'll admit, though, that for short 2-channel cable lengths, it's often more cost-effective to buy mid-level twisted-pair cables from companies like Rockford Fosgate or KnuKonceptz.
> 
> I've always followed these guidelines to ensure the chances of cable-induced noise is kept to a minimum:
> 
> * Use twisted-pair interconnect cabling
> * Keep interconnect cable lengths to a minimum
> * Avoid coiling cables
> * Use audio components with a low output impedance
> * Prefer components with a high output voltage (> 2.0v RMS)
> 
> --david


Just wanted to give you guys a heads-up regarding "Twisted-Pair" interconnect wire...

Quote from Hum Rejection in Unbalanced Audio Cables -- Blue Jeans Cable that Erin linked to way back in this thread:

"There is a common misconception that twisting the two conductors of an interconnect cable together can somehow contribute to noise rejection, and even that it can perform as good a job of noise rejection as a good shield can. But the phenomenon by which twisted-pair wires reject noise--called common-mode noise rejection--works only in balanced audio circuits, not in the unbalanced circuits that are nearly universal in consumer audio gear."


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## Hanatsu

Belden 8719, great cable. Low capacitance. Twisted pair, thick aluminium shielding. You'll have to solder the ends yourself, Neutrik make good ones. You can practically wind it around the power cable, still no noise. Had some phoenix gold rca cable which picked up the noise right away when I did the same thing. Not that anyone would do that but anyway...

Edit; You could "semi balance" the cable by connecting the shielding in one end to ground. Idk if it really does some good, some cables are constructed that way for some reason. It's supposed to reject noise in any case.


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## Toslink

bbfoto said:


> Just wanted to give you guys a heads-up regarding "Twisted-Pair" interconnect wire...
> 
> Quote from Hum Rejection in Unbalanced Audio Cables -- Blue Jeans Cable that Erin linked to way back in this thread:
> 
> "There is a common misconception that twisting the two conductors of an interconnect cable together can somehow contribute to noise rejection, and even that it can perform as good a job of noise rejection as a good shield can. But the phenomenon by which twisted-pair wires reject noise--called common-mode noise rejection--works only in balanced audio circuits, not in the unbalanced circuits that are nearly universal in consumer audio gear."


Before coming to any broad conclusions based on the article referenced above, I'd would refer you to research David Navone and Richard Clark did into this back in the 1990's. David and Richard developed an inductive noise generator (a PVC tube wrapped with copper wire fed by a 3.5kHz noise generator simulating alternator "whine") and a technique for quantitatively measuring the level of noise induced into the cables ultimately providing a noise rejection measurement specificed in deciBells (of attenuation). In an Autosound 2000 newsletter detailing their work, they explained that the single most important factor in noise rejection in twisted-pair cabling (vs. coaxial interconnect geometry) is the significant reduction in the "loop area" between the center conductor and the cable's ground conductor. 

At the time, all car audio patch cables were of a coaxial design. And the more expensive the cables, the thicker they were. And the thicker they were, the more noise they picked up despite the amount of foil shielding they had. The noise pick-up alone was due to the fact that the thicker coaxial cables have a larger distance between the center conductor and the shield, thereby having a larger "loop area". And the foil "shielding", which is designed to reject radio-frequency interference, and is only effective at higher frequencies, was ineffective at shielding low-frequency alternator whine. 

One other installation-specific factor that lead to the alternator noise showing up: running both Front and Rear audio from the head unit. When the system was simple, with just a L and R set of interconnects, noise was much less frequent. But as soon as the system included four channels of audio (Front L and R + rear L and R) sent to the back of the vehicle using two independent stereo interconnect cables (we didn't have 4-channel RCA cables back then), the probability of noise went up exponentially, and if the system used "high-end" coaxial-based interconnects, the chances were even higher. And if one set of interconnects went down one side of the vehicle, while the other set when down the other, the chances were greater still. Why? Loop area. 

Their work in this area ultimately became the basis for the Monster Cable XLN cables, released in 1994, which were the first automotive-speficic interconnect cables to use twisted-pair geometry. Soon after, most all car audio interconnect companies changed their patch cable product lines to include twisted-pair geometry. It was also around that time that most all induced-noise problems (into interconnect cables specifically) in car audio disappeared. 

I don't want to give the appearance that I speak for Mr. Clark, Mr. Navone or that the conclusions on the part of the author of the article linked above are incorrect. But based on the work of Clark and Navone, and where the industry moved, it would seem that twisted-pair cabling makes a difference in noise pick-up--at least in automotive environments using single-ended (unbalanced) audio equipment.


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## bbfoto

Awesome info, Toslink.  Thanks for posting. Richard Clark and David Navone (and Patrick) have really done a lot to dispell nearly all of the myths in our industry...they've been the "Car Audio Mythbusters", if you will.


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## triatletadan

The home audio cables are much better than car audio cables. They're very limited in dynamics, focus...

i've tried monster, knu, ixos... the home audio cable beats easily all of them, but they're very expensive. 

try brands like nordost, transparent, purist audio, kimber, van den hul, alpha core goertz, wireworld, chord.

alpha core micropurl, wireworld luna 6, chord crimson are better than almost all knukonceptz, monster, ixos gamma and they're not expensive


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## chad

A bunch of other people did similar testing and found shielded cable to work much better. Ever wonder why car audio people are the ONLY people that think shielding is non-important? Because of that paper that navone and clark put out.

Why did they put it out? Because they wanted to be trend setters for twisted pair for unbalanced audio. 

How did they get people to believe? because they are fantastic at selling ice cubes to eskimos.

It's been proven in EVERY SINGLE FACET of audio that shielding is indeed important and twisted pair is as worthless as tits on a snake for unbalanced signal transfer. And When I say unbalanced I mean impedance balanced or even balanced differential.

You can use twisted pair all you want, as long as it has a shield around it, and as long as you don't think you are getting any advantage over a coathanger unless you actually balance each wire in the pair at least in impedance.


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## bbfoto

^Mythbusters busted, LOL. Thanks Chad.


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## MacLeod

I think the reason car audio guys are the only ones that don't believe in shielding is that we generally don't fall for the snake oil that home audio guys do like $40 sets of cable risers to keep our RCA's off the floor so footsteps wont transmit thru the floor and into the cables. Or the $60 extension cords that magically create a broader soundstage. You don't see a lot of that crap in our world because we tend to busy ourselves with things that actually matter like EQ, speaker placement and so on. Home audio guys don't have to worry about windshield reflections or mids and tweeters being out of phase with each other so their tweaking is with cables, magic extension cords and other stuff. So $60 magic extension cords sell to them while $800 processors are what we spend our hard earned cash on.

I think Navone and especially Richard Clark are geniuses. They take a lot of myths and wives tales and put them up to scientific study and debunk the majority of them. They get a LOT of hate tho especially in the home audio world the same way you would if you went to a Christian forum and claimed there was no God. People that have $2,000 invested in RCA cables don't like to hear that the $12 set at Walmart would've worked just as well.

I myself use the entry level cable from JL Audio. Twisted and non shielded and they're the quietest cables I've ever used. 

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2


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## chad

When the hell did shielding become snake oil? Twisted pair is snake oil if anything. Are you aware HOW and WHY twisted pair works in it's intended application and why it's merely 2 wires OUTSIDE it's intended application?


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## MacLeod

chad said:


> When the hell did shielding become snake oil? Twisted pair is snake oil if anything. Are you aware HOW and WHY twisted pair works in it's intended application and why it's merely 2 wires OUTSIDE it's intended application?


Nope. Don't really care either. I was just giving my 2¢ as to why car audio guys typically don't buy into a lot of the ideas home audio guys do. I know what has worked best for me. Your ears aren't my problem. 

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2


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## chad

MacLeod said:


> Nope. Don't really care either. I was just giving my 2¢ as to why car audio guys typically don't buy into a lot of the ideas home audio guys do. I know what has worked best for me. Your ears aren't my problem.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2


Exactly.

It dawned on me that what you wrote could be taken in 2 different ways entirely. One being the way I took it (shielding is snake oil) and the other the way you just clarified.

We had a member long ago that said something so eloquent that it cannot be forgotten. 

"Noise can never be eliminated, only attenuated." 

Therefore if you do fine with absolutely no noise rejection then so be it. It's evidently floating your boat. But if someone were to ask me if UTP cabling would be a good choice for an install I would say no, because laying cable is too much of a pain in the ass to do twice, also the theory is profoundly flawed. Lay down something that is fundamentally correct for unbalanced audio signal transfer.

BUT, as you said, if I had said cabling, working, and someone told me I needed to rip my interior out to replace it with something that is not going to make a difference to me, but possibly a chunk of test equipment. I'd tell them that they were higher than the balls on a giraffe. Much like you would now.


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## MacLeod

I think they both can work. I had my noise issues fixed with non shielded twisted cables. OP had his noise issues fixed with shielded cables. So obviously both can work. Maybe it depends on what kind of noise is being induced or where its originating from or some other variable. Guess the best thing to do is try shielded and if that doent work, try non shielded. If neither work, you know your problem lies elsewhere.

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2


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## minbari

MacLeod said:


> I think they both can work. I had my noise issues fixed with non shielded twisted cables. OP had his noise issues fixed with shielded cables. So obviously both can work. Maybe it depends on what kind of noise is being induced or where its originating from or some other variable. Guess the best thing to do is try shielded and if that doent work, try non shielded. If neither work, you know your problem lies elsewhere.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2


if you have no noise issues, then unshielded twisted pair will work. 

if you do have induced noise, then twisted pair used in an unbalanced mode will do nothing to reject it, it cant. The key here is "induced" noise, if the noise comes from the source, then you can change cables all day and it wont make a difference.


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## chad

If the shield is improperly terminated, and the induced noise is RFI based the shield can do more harm than good as it becomes a radiator itself.


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## captainobvious

I *can* make my own, but for the part cost and time involved, I have been simply buying mine from KnuKonceptz as well. I like their Karma SS line. They look really good and I havent had any issues with them. They are also reasonably priced too.


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## WhippingBoy

I used to use a lot of the Knukonceptz RCAs. I have several pair of the thick, triple shielded cables. Took apart a couple of pairs and found that none of the shields were grounded. I now make my own cables.


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## chad

WhippingBoy said:


> I used to use a lot of the Knukonceptz RCAs. I have several pair of the thick, triple shielded cables. Took apart a couple of pairs and found that none of the shields were grounded. I now make my own cables.


Were there arrows on the cable? If so it should point to the ungrounded end. If you took both ends apart and no ground then that's odd


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## WhippingBoy

No arrows, both ends ungrounded. I ruined several pairs of those fairly expensive triple shielded cables to prove that the shields were ungrounded. DIY is the best way to go, IMHO.


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## minbari

Should only be grounded at one end

Sent from my phone using digital farts


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## Hillbilly SQ

I'm running a 4ch Stinger Expert series shielded cable that I got bnib off egay for under $20 shipped to replace my spliced together cables from back when I was using a linedriver. My system sounded completely different over the spliced together Ratshack cables. No clue what happened but maybe those Ratchack phono connectors were causing something wierd to happen? Still using an unspliced Ratshack cable on the sub. Maybe that's why I'm getting some mild headunit noise in the sub channel? Or maybe it's just the ancient Fryaneer running the show


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## WhippingBoy

minbari said:


> Should only be grounded at one end
> 
> Sent from my phone using digital farts


Exactly. That's why I checked both ends of the cables just to be sure. I must admit, I was kinda surprised to see such high quality cables ungrounded.


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## bbfoto

^Wow. That's not encouraging to hear about the Knu RCA's.  I've never used them but considered them a few times. Get tired of making my own (lazy old [email protected]), LOL.


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## MacLeod

I dont know what it is, but while I use Knu's power and speaker wire, their RCA cables never appealed to me. I cant give you a specific reason for it. Maybe something about the looks of them just turned me off. I know thats a stupid reason for audio cables but in my little mind, cooler looking cables sound better.


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## 1fishman

triatletadan said:


> The home audio cables are much better than car audio cables. They're very limited in dynamics, focus...
> 
> i've tried monster, knu, ixos... the home audio cable beats easily all of them, but they're very expensive.
> 
> try brands like nordost, transparent, purist audio, kimber, van den hul, alpha core goertz, wireworld, chord.
> 
> alpha core micropurl, wireworld luna 6, chord crimson are better than almost all knukonceptz, monster, ixos gamma and they're not expensive


No kidding,
Way back when i had a incredible home system, tube amp, Quad electrostatic speakers... The biggest improvement to that build was the interconnects (besides the speaker). Most interconnects made no real difference UNTIL, i tried Straight Wire's "Mystro" there top of the line at that time. $300 for 1 meter! I was blown away at what they did (or didn't do) to the sound. The shop that sold them let me demo them on my system before i bought them. Nothing subjective with those wires.

It would be interesting how those cable would stack up against our common cables of today.


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## vwdave

My theory is that I HATE removing panels to run cables. As a result I run the best cables I can.

In my old system I ran Phoenix Gold QLX series cables (their zero point line from back in the day). Now I am running monster pro as I got them for a smoking deal $20/ 3 meter cable. I don't understand why someone would spend a few bucks and remove all panels to run crap, then rip it all apart to rerun Breyer cables. The more you remove panels the looser they get, causing premature rattles. I run cables once and keep my panels tight.


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