# 150DB WORK VAN



## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

hi guys and gals...

this is a mercedes benz, mb 100 van install im currently working on for what was a customer.. now a freind.. 

the install request was something loud ( about or above 150db), 
and sounding as good as possible.. 

subs = reconed w6v1 12inch.... 6 of them.. ported box, tuned to 34hz..
mono amp, = kicker zx 2500.1, which is actually 2780.1 at 2ohm on the birth certificate it came with..

speakers = focal kp 100 four inch... two sets up on the dash.. currently one there, install is still underway but can be listened too while the rest is completed..

amp for the above splits = 650.4 zx kicker amp.. 170rmsx4 at 4ohm i believe from memory..

midbass = currently, the focal kbe, bass extension kit.. 6.5 inch, its doing nothing really, but fills the hole in the door,lol..

midbass going in = morel sw 9inch.. in each door, using modified and strengthened factory locations... 

amp for midbass = identical to amp for the splits, but bridged, and will supply 325rms at 4ohm... using the rear rca outputs and using hpf and lpf of the headunit and amp to filter the signal they recieve..

batteries = aux batt = optima d34.... factory battery in factory location aswell.. also, has stinger battery isolator, stinger wiring, and 2 x3farad cadence capacitors..

sound deadene = mix of dynamatt, and option audio.. roof,doors and floor are done completely...


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the van as it stands finished... 3amps, and 6x 12inch jl audio w6vi










test fit of box and amp rack before wiring the subs up..











passenger side A- pilar... focal kp100... four inch splits.... eventually will have two of each here.. the next set built just beside them in a pod that will sweep from side to side of the dashboard..










the cabin... reverse cameras and mirror image visor screens.. head units are pioneer 9650 for audio, and an exad jvc unit for the reverse cam and dvd functions..










roof linig..(old installer, that was sacked because of dodgy workmanship and average install techniques..)
it has a jl audio logo in the roof, and YES those are tweeters, though i didnt do that, im actually drilling them out and tapping about 5 LED'S into them to act as down lights..










close up of pods...










more build pics to come, and wiring and battery pics too..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

panel was traced with boc in place.. i measued in 35mm and cut the sqaure out.. then cut the rectangle out above that for the amp rack window, trimmed it, and put an 8mm thick acrylic window in..




















heres a shot that shows the size of the box and panel well... 










more box building pics, the box is two layers of 18mm mdf, glued and screwed together..





































more pics coming


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

home made jasper jig ive knocked up to cut out 6/6.5/10/12/15 inch holes for speaekrs/subs..










trimming the face of the box before being installed for the final fitment..










SOUND DEADENING

the van has been completely covered with dynamatt and option audio...

doors recived a layer on the outer skin, then had the service holes covered with 3mm mdf templates, i then gaffa taped them in palce and dynamatted over the top.. there pretty solid sounding door panels now..










seats and every thing else came out for the deadener and some new wiring to be ran...










0G EARTH LUG... into the chassis of the van.. locked in place so it cant shake loose... anything is possible when its flexing the way it does.. the roof flexes about 3cm..










0G power cable was ran under the van in and out,using gromets because it had to pass the side door from the batteries located on the passenger side rear of the van.. this was done to avoid it being pinched or broken while the owner is working and loading things thru the side door..











location of optima d34 battery, other battery is located about 30 inches from the optima on the same side.. the battery is located inside it own enclosure, with a door to access it.. it will eventually be trimmed and have a window for veiwing when the van is at comps,etc..











close up of 3 farad cadence capacitor... OG wiring in and out of these..










this pic is taken from the rear of the wall panel.. the box is about to be slid forward and bracketed to the panel...










this pic shows the wiring from one of the 4ch amps.. the fans are located on the right and left top of the rack, in a push / pull configuration to vent any hot air...











more pics to come...


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the pic below shows the wiring from the amp rack.. its dropped off the side of the box and into the distro blocks located on the side. visable in the next pic...



















cover panel was made over the capacitors.. there is an acrylic window in this now, and its trimmed in the same material as the box and wall panell... there was also a trim peice that sits inside the cut out so the caps are not visable when not needed to be..










progress pic of pod construction..










visor screens were disasembled and painted to match interior and A-pillar pods..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

amp rack build pics... the amps are mounted by placing the mono block at the rear,then screwing and wiring it in, then mounting the 4ch staggered in front.. the mono block must be screwred in first because you can only acess the screws thru the cut outs of the 4ch mounting boards.. they serve a twin purpose, A= to keep the air flowing around the amps, and B = to access the mounting screws as mentioned.. the amp rack was later painted with black acrylic paint, and pre wired before being lifted onto the box inside the van and wired up in place..



















a couple of buil;d pics of the A-pillar pods... 
the pods where built originally for some pioneer splits, but eventually the owner was talked into buying some decent speakers.. it makes no sense spending big money on installing cheap speakers.. so we went with focals for the front stage... they were built like they are in the pics, so the midrange was kept isolated from the tweeter.. the tweeter mount was added latter after the bulk of the pod was fibreglassed like in the pics..

the holes are drilled to help adheasion and to blen the two into one peice.. the resin will go thru the holes and create bubbles on the rear of the trim which helps with stregth of the pod..










pic below shows the pod before the teeeter being added...










some fibreglass reinforced filler being added...










below is a pic of the two pods finished and loaded ready to install...










well, thats it.. for now..

as mentioned there will be some more speakers going in, i'll update this thread with pics of the head units, and battery locations etc, and pics of the trimmed board around the caps very soon..

hope you like it..

and your probably wondering... it hit 150.5 on the term lab, with 2780rms...

plan to add about 10 000rms to the subs via two amps, daily use will be ran from one amp, and comp use will require hooking up the second amp for more output... either some digital designs hv amps, or some xxx series soundstream amps is what im thinking along the lines of..

if any one has any other recomendations on good qaulity amps for this install mono blocks that is, pls comment.. keep in mind it would need to be two amps, able to run at 2ohm when one is conected, and 2or less when two is conected... and stil put out aboput 5000rms each amp.. 

thanks for looking... updates will be done soon..

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

AFTER SOME ADVICE ON AMPS.. THEY WOULD NEED TO BE ABLE TO RUN THE 6OHM DVC SUBS IN GROUPS OF THREE AND 6....

3 off one amp and 3 off the other for com use, and then for daily use, go back to one amp.. 6 subs = 2ohm load and about 4000rms would be good for daily use.. any ideas..


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## AceX (Dec 15, 2008)

Arc Audio 4000SE?


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## bigabe (May 1, 2007)

Digital Designs Z2-LV:
DDAudio Digital Designs Speakers Made in the USA

Stetsom V 4K2D:
Stetsom - Amplificadores - Catálogo de Produtos


Stetsom makes even bigger amps too. The 4K2D is just the middle of the road.


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## fallbrookchris (Feb 13, 2009)

hate to be the bearer of bad news but they put the steering wheel on the wrong side, and in the picture of the amp rack in the house I can see your ball sack hanging out, other than that looks like a cool project


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Why would you run 3 subs on 1 amp and the other 3 on the other when it needs to be crazy loud and all 6 subs on 1 amp when it needs to be just loud?
I guess that would be some complicated wiring.

Why not just run 1 coil of all 6 subs on one amp and the other coil of all 6 subs on the other one? 
That way you can half the power(consumption) for daily use by simply switching only 1 amp on, and using full power by switching them both on. 
This would give you a 6ohm/6coils=1ohm load per amplifier, so if you pick 2 amps that deliver 4000W at 1 ohm, you get 4000W for daily use and 8000W when both amps are used, without difficult/complicated wiring.

Why make it more complicated than you need to?



About the rest of the system: I like the Focal mids, I like the fact that you'll use 9" Morel midbasswoofers, but I simply hate Focal tweeters, especially in systems that not only have to sound good on lower volume levels, standing still at a sound quality game, but also have to be able to get pretty loud or even very loud. 
Even the top-of-the-line tweeters (Utopia Be, TLR) just aren't made to get loud, if you try it, they make dogs 2 streets away run even further away and if you keep trying, you blow them, they just aren't made to get loud...

Dynaudio MD100/102's would be a big step in the good way, I did that before, the system of a friend of mine is chosen and partly built by me. 
He originally had 2 JL 13W3v3's taking about 1200W RMS and a Focal Polyglass component set taking 2x150W RMS (passive). In a Fiat Cinquecento, this gets more than loud enough to listen at (he doesn't do spl nor sq games). The sub sounded loud, deep and right, the midbass was okay (mids in sealed boxes on the doors), the midrange was fantastic but the highs were harsh at higher volume levels and a bit 'thin' at medium volume levels.
We simply replaced the tweeters by Dynaudio MD100's and switched the tweeter attenuation from -6dB to 0 and it was perfect, the highs sounded nice and full, a little laid back without missing detail and without becoming extremely harsh at higher volume levels.

greetz,
Isabelle


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thanks for he comments and recomendations on amps... 

even some humor thrown in there too.. though my ball sack was empty at the time of the pic, it normally hangs lower and wider..  i'll have to get my mechanic to sheck the steering wheel out, ive never noticed that problem myself... 

isabelle.. first of all, thank you for your thorough response.. its raised a few questioned in my head... 

firstly, the question you asked, why run 3 on each amp to get really loud and 1 on all 6 to get loud.. well, my thinking tells me the more power i feed them for a comp the more spl id get.. then for daily use go back to one amp one all 6 so they dont fry from over powering them.... 

the way youve mentioned to run the amp and sub combo sounds fine, except for one thing, i thought you couldnt run dvc subs with only one coil hooked up.. i dont for a second doubt your knowledge, im asking you to elaberate on your suggestion pls... im not even sure where i got the idea ou cant run one coil, but its stuck in my head,so id be a bit hesitant to just go and do it because someone said it is ok.. you know what i mean? no disrepect intended at all...

i agree with you on the foical tweeter coments, to a degree... i think the k2 range leave the polyglass for dead, and the tweeters used in this install are not the polyglass harsher type tweeters.. the ones in the k2 range sing very nicely in my oppinion, but every one is diffrent hey... its a mater of preference and what enjoy.. im by no means saying they are the be all and end of speakers (focal in general im saying) but imo they do a good job, hence there reputation, it really is,as ive found a love them or hate them thing with focals..

after the install is complete, i'll demo some other tweeters, and the dynaudios you mentioned and see what i think later, but right now its a mater of beefing the alternator and battery sytem, then doing the sub amps.... in that order too,lol..

thanks..


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Powering only 1 coil of a DVC sub shouldn't be a problem, I did it before (using a DVC sub as a SVC, leaving 1 coil open) without any problems. 
The only problem you might get is that the unpowered coil starts to deliver power to the switched-off amp. 
I don't know if that hurts the amp, but you could put a high amperage switch (like a battery switch) between one of speakercables that connect the subs with the amp that doesn't always have to work (a single simple switch so the circuit is broken and the subs cant power the switched-off amp is enough).
And off course, the power handling is lower if you only use 1 coil, but it's still more than half the normal power handling since the cooling of the sub is calculated for the full power handling (with both coils powered) and the unused coil also works as some sort of heatsink.

About the tweeters, I know what you mean about the love them or hate them thing. I love them at normal volume levels and hate them at higher volume levels. Those TN52's are off course much better than the TN47's, but I still think the limit is just too low for SQL installs. 
The limit of Dynaudio's is higher than any Focal tweeter I've ever heard (including the Utopia Be and TLR) and they sound very nice for a reasonable price (for a caraudio compact), that's why I recommend those to anyone that wants a nice sounding system that is able to reach higher volume levels without getting unbearably harsh and I'm pretty sure, if you'll test them, you'll forget those TN52's very fast ;-)

greetz,
Isabelle


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thanks for that reply..

i actually contacted the importer custom car sound, and soke to a speaker repair shop about the option of running them as youve mentioned, they both said in theory it can be done, but wouldnt recomend it.. was also told that if only one coil was to be damaged it wouldnt be covered in any warranty claim, but, in saying that... you are correct in the fact it can be done.. just prefered to run both id say.. so, i think i might look for an amp that can just run about 8000rms at 2ohm, 14.4v, something like the dd lv amp even would do, and just swap from the amp thats running them now, to the bigger amp for comps..

so basically id just be putting the rcas into the bigger amp, and the speaker wiring into it aswell... i think thats the safest, easiest way to go.. thanks so much for your replies though, if any thing it has been educational in the fact ive chatted abt about the one coil option on sub wiring, and now have another option for the tweeters if we run into trouble with the hrashness when getting loud...

i'll be looking up the specs on that tweeter, mainly the size in diameter and mouting cup options as they would need to be placed into the exsisting custom A-pilllar pods with out much, if any modifications to it...

thanks again Isabelle..

cheers
BRAD......


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

SO NOW IM STILL AFTER RECOMENDATIONS FOR AN AMP THATS ABOUT 10.000 RMS AT 2OHM, RATED AT A DECENT VOLTAGE.. LIKE 14.4 OR LESS WOULD BE GOOD... BUDGET IS ABOUT $2500 FOR THE AMP, AFTER SOME DISCUSSION,THE USE OF TWO AMPS IS OUT, AND ILL GO WITH ONE BIG ONE FOR COMPS, AND THE CURRENT ONE FOR 'SUB SAFE' DAILY BASS... THEY WONT FRY OFF 2800RMS..

then if necersary, the battery and alt can be beefed up.. at the moment it is charging ok , and i estimate the alt to be 100amp or above, so for a daily system with 3000rms its just keeping up... if anything its discharging, with that amount of current being drawn, but its working is what i mean..

but for comps the batteries can be charged so i dont need to worry about feeding the 10.000rms amp constantly, its only a few burps at a comp i need, not an alt to keep up with it....


thanks
BRAD...


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

Holy crap thats a horrible idea. DO NOT USE JUST ONE COIL! It will change all T/S specs and can cause damage to the drivers.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well, the actual subs came with a bright yellow sheet of paper,with a big WARNING!!, saying DO NOT USE THIS SUB WITH ONLY ONE COIL CONNECTED, but, as im still learning, i tend not too doubt the things i read or i'm told, but i take advice on forums to be half fact, half fiction and ALWAYS get a second oppinon on any advice i receive.. every thing i've ever read or been told tells me that it was a big no no, but as i said, im still learning and will listen to everything, then double check the info...

im really not into arguing on threads about this and that, i just decided to not go with that advice.. i didnt actually qoute what i was told over the phone by the speaker repair shop... but its along the lines of, WE WILL BE SEEING YOU SOON,LOL.... 

thanks


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## bigabe (May 1, 2007)

More big huge amps:

Hifonics XXV Maxximus High Performance D-Class 2-Channel Amplifier

Hifonics XXV Sampson High Performance D-Class 5000W Mono Block Amplifier


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## mr1spd (Jan 5, 2009)

Wow what a cool install


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS AND THE AMP RECOMENDATIONS... 

MUCH APPRECISATED....

BRAD..


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Always powering all coils is indeed better, using only 1 coil per sub shouldn't be a problem if the power is at least 40% lower then when you use both coils, yes, the parameters change, but if the subs don't play well with only 1 coil driven in a certain box, they won't play nice with both coils driven in the same box.

Using 2 different amps and switching between them is a better option than using 2 amps and running them both for SPL and only one for daily use (no matter how you connect it).

One of the most famous caraudio dealers here in Belgium (maybe you know him from the dB-drag scene: Stef's Crazy Team aka 'dokterice') is the biggest Kicker (wich has a huge reputation in the spl scene) dealer in Belgium and surrounding country's for years and still is, but lately, he seems to be a big fan of 'Cactus Sounds'. 

The "Team Cactus 7kW" delivers 7000W at 1 ohm at 14.4V, I'm pretty sure it's able to run at .5 ohms if you give it enough juice and let it breathe enough. 
I see no reason why you should work at 2ohms for spl competitions, it's a waste of power and money.

Actually, you wouldn't need 2 amps.
Take one coil of each sub and connect them parallel with eachother and do the same thing with the second coils of each sub. This way, you have "one 1ohm+1ohm sub". 
->SPL: Connect these 2 groups of coils in parallel and you have a nice SPL-competiton .5ohm load that gets the most out of the amp (somewhere around 9-10kW if you use a Cactus 7kW I guess)
->daily use: Connect the 2 groups of coils in parallel and you have a nice, stable, safe 2ohm load for daily use (about 4kW in case of a Cactus 7kW, I guess).

Only 1 amp and easy switching between SPL and daily mode and in both scenarios, all coils are driven, what do you need more?

greetz,
Isabelle


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## Scuzzy (Mar 13, 2009)

Hi Jukebox, looks nuts


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thanks scuzzy, got some more pics being loaded as soon as i get the urge to load them to photobucket, but you may have seen them on mea... just head units, battery set up, trim panel around the caps and some lighting etc...

alot more to come with this install though, the owner is mad...


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## Scuzzy (Mar 13, 2009)

I just had to post somewhere so I could make a thread myself, hehe


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

haha, you swine... no probs, will be checking for your thread soon then... your the inspiration for my parcel shelf design, though i cant say too much incase i stuff it up, cos then IT NEVER HAPPENED, LOL..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well, going with jl audio infinate baffle 8inch midbass... two in each door.. running each one of 170 rms.... and doing build outs to fit them into the doors...

i think its a safer option, considering if he wants more midbass later, he cant get it with the morels, as theres no room for another set of nines, we are on the limits now with these eights, and even thats a struggle to fit them ..

then theres still the focal fours goin on the dash aswell.. and that will be it for now, untill the owner goes even more deaf, and says its not loud enough again...lol..


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## Scuzzy (Mar 13, 2009)

jukebox said:


> haha, you swine... no probs, will be checking for your thread soon then... your the inspiration for my parcel shelf design, though i cant say too much incase i stuff it up, cos then IT NEVER HAPPENED, LOL..


Do you mean that big crazy speaker box thing I'll eventualy have on the shelf? thats like the last thing I'll finish in my install I think


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

nooooooo, i mean the lighting effects in your tweeters and mids...

cant say much more then that,lol... remember, i dont like to say what im doing till its done, then if it doesnt work, i can say i never went ahead with it,lol...

your computer will self destruct in 10 seconds..



but nah, seriously mate, im thinking of doing a acrylic peice between my shelf and box, right across the car, and same as spacers on all the speakers and teweeters.. similar to yours...

thinking of using 9mm, is that good to drill leds into..? or at least easy to iluminate well..?


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## Scuzzy (Mar 13, 2009)

Oh right, ok then, 9mm should be allright, I mean what a large led is 5mm and a small is 3mm?


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thank you, those sizes have answered a couplke questions i had, and also made up my mind on the thickness of each acrylis peice..

thanks...


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

nice jukebox! I am kind a bass head as well  2 15's in a ported box tuned to 34hz. it does a 149db on the termlab at the windshield. it gets nasty inside when you want it to.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

sounds cool, im assuming there is a build thread, or at least some pics on here, ill have to hunt that down and have a look at what amps your running etc.. if there isnt a thread, pls let me know what power your running and what equpiment , id be interested to know..

was at a comp today, it was an sq comp, and free db testing done aswell..

my little chrade hit 139.2, with 1000rms and two w3 12inch jl subs in sealed boxes... its more an sq set up but gets good spl when needed too...

aus record holder for super st 5+ (i think it was super st) was at the comp, but just on display.. running 7 12inch option audio subs, in a huge ass box, with like 6 of there largest amps.. estimate about 20thou rms... 6 large batts, built in batt charger, all the rest to go with it..

160.5 spl.. not a bad effort.. it sure takes a hell of alot to go from where the van is at,too where the top guys are at...

thanks for your comment........

BRAD..!!


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

139.2 with 2 12W3's sealed and 1kW is pretty good. 
A friend of mine has 2 13W3v3's sealed with 1.2kW on them and he did 139.9 in a Fiat Cinquecento (also more of an SQ install).


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

ahhh, ok... i think ive just about got the best out of it, maybe .5 left in it with some playing around, but its not about that with this car... 

im not sure if youve seen it, but ive been posting in the thread of that car aswell... jl audio amps, focals speakers (your favourites..  ) alpine screen and h701 processor.


one thing i cant stand about cars hitting over 145db on music, is the constant vibrations and noise from every thing else killing the experience of good clean sounds... but every ones diffrent i guess.. but i do like it every now and then for a quick buzz, but wouldnt spend my own money on it,lol..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

hi all..

the owner of this van wanted more work done, and here it is.. any questions.. fire away..

thanks for looking..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

floor mats, for shows only..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

havent got many build pics of this, but its a midbass box that sits between the seats.. it wraps around the engine cover and handbrake etc.. it actually sounds decent too... its running two jl zr800 8inch midbass drivers, off a kicker amp - 175rms to each mid...




























more pics to come..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

finished pics









































































theres a fair few more pics ive still got to add to photobucket and ill then add them to here..

more work was done in the rear of the van.. more to the box and amp racks, and more in regards to lighting effects etc etc..

thanks for looking..

also, if anyone in MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA wants any work done, feel free to contact me via pm and have a chat..

Brad..


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## jsun_g (Jun 12, 2008)

That is some crazy work dude! You always go all-out on your setups. I assume the van has vents for the windshield on top of the dash to clear it up when it gets fogged up? Is the dash enclosure blocking those vents? I guess it may not be a problem, just open the front windows and crank up the bass...instant window defogger, right?


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## Qicker306 (Oct 2, 2009)

Amazing work. You never fail to impress me and then some. Quick question on your amp lighting. Did you just put an LED strip toq and bottom on the inside of the amps heat sink? I'm running 3 Kicker ZX amps and will definately be lighting them up from the inside now that I know what it looks like. I figure some eBay LED strips will be more then capable. Thanks and great install.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

jsun_g... thanks for your comments..
3rd last pic of 1st lot of pics, youll notice around the front of the pod on the dash ive cut in around the vents.. also the shape of the pod deflects that air up to the windsheild aswell..

qicker306... thanks budd.. the amps have leds all around them.. tube style ones..

then the window in the amp rack is actually 10mm safety/laminated glass with flexi led strips shined thru the sides of it.. the image is etched into it... in general, larger the image,/sheet of glass, = more led's for good results.. use glass if budget allows, as plastic scratches too easy and then it will look rotten after a while.. 

also, be careful with ebay brands, dont bend there flex leds too much,they crack and wont work...


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## .BNO. (Nov 8, 2009)

daaaaaaaamn that is off the hook, i love the dash!


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thanks man...
that dash would want to look good.. considering this = $600 for dash pod + $650 for a-pillar pods.. plus $500 for each set of 4inch focals.. making it a $2250 front stage, with out counting amp power or midbass and amps to run those..

do some quick math on this thing and youll see its crazy.. theres a house deposit right there, lol...

also, a couple things about the biuld not obvious by pics..

that roof is about 10mm thick lol.. when it was glassed, i flipped it over so it was arched, and i could walk across it without it flexing.. which was the request of the customer, that it didnt flex like his old roof did..



theres a 200ah deep cycle battery and an optima yellow top aswell... the stock factory batt is still in place, with an isolator...

also, this vans best DB was scored not long back, it got 152.8db @ 59hz.. not bad for 2300wrms and 6 12s... the box is tuned to 30hz also, so no doubt with more power and higher tune mid 150s were possible.. but numbers wasnt the goal..

the midbass in the doors share the signal from the rear output of the processor.. 
fade and balance is still acheivable, and you can also turn off one set of the fours (dash mounted ones) when you just want it at normal volumes..

the focal splits up front are ran off a jl 300/4 and each tweet and mid gets 75rms each..

theres bluetooth, reverse cams, and all that jazz in there too...

any other specs of this build your wondering about, just ask..

cheers, 

Brad..


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