# 2010 Nissan Sentra - for my brother in-law



## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hey guys, I figured I'd show some pics of the (very rushed) install I performed on Trevor's Sentra. 

Head unit remains stock, connected to a 3sixty.2, powering up Soundstream D-Tower amps (4ch and mono), front stage for now is Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5's running active, and sub stage is a trio of Alumapro MX10's. 

The system has shown me that new-style cars are **** to work with, at least Nissans. There's these huge, and I mean HUGE chunks of foam that make up the floorboard, except where there are main beams which make it nearly impossible to pass wires cleanly over or around. Another huge roadblock was the factory battery terminal, which itself had a weird fusing thing going on that I had to rip out, and replicate so the car would even work. That's just the ones that I can think of at the moment, but I recall several other nightmarish events and I'll bring them up if I can remember later (to help the next fool working on a 2010 Sentra..lol.)

Here's the result of redoing the fusing system in the engine bay, sorry it isn't an awesome shot, it is a really hard thing to take pics of given its angle, and it was 11:30PM by the time we finished this particular portion of the build (on Day1). The battery terminal itself contains the fusing portion. 



















The rest of the pics that go to the interior build are lost in some memory card somewhere, so I'll revisit that if I end up finding the card. I do however have the pictures from the hard work we put in this last weekend, which was all the trunk work. 

This is a pic of a different colored 2010 Sentra, it happens to be my mother in-law's (which is identical to my brother in-law's except for being blue while his is red...apparently they struck a "2 fer" deal with the dealership.) This pic shows the trunk and what I have to work with. Take note of the curved sections left and right, at the top. They are NOT identical. If you are building in this vehicle, you must take this into consideration!










OK, so I decided to build a box for the trio of Alumapros using a lightweight 5 ply hardwood plywood from Home Depot. This stuff weighs in pretty low compared with MDF, and doesn't flex and split nearly as much. I braced the long sections with sticks of MDF, and this seemed to keep things pretty tight and strong. I used industrial-strength polyurethane in place of caulking to seal it all up and add some extra strength. I also caulked all the outside edges for a sure thing.

This is the box in progress, astute observers will note that the center hole is "perfect", while the two outer holes look a little more ragged. That's what I get for allowing my Jasper router jig (with router attached!) to fall to the floor after the first hole got cut. I damaged the jig and had to wing it with a steady jigsaw hand the rest of the way. 

























The sides of the box are a little long in the front to form a mounting point for a trim board. This part was fun, I used some leftover heavy-backed carpet I picked up for a non-audio project, which served as an excellent template to match the curves and shape needed for the trim board. Better than cardboard to cut too.

Here's the trim board during fitting:


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

The board worked perfectly so after some roundover router work of the center window and some sanding, it was ready for carpet.










I was pretty happy with that, so I then carpeted the front of the sub box black for contrast.









I then sprayed two cans worth of sound deadening into the box, and polyfil stuffed it. Then I installed the three Alumapros using square-drive screws:

































And here we are, back in the car with the finished product:


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Subscribing. That box is nice and simple but custom looking. Very nice.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

This is a taste of the intended trunk's look. Notice you can't see a THING. BTW I would have made this panel bigger (and actually I did originally), but it simply won't come out if it is bigger than this right here:

















As you guys know, I love doing stealth installs, and in this case it was a toughie because the spare tire had to be untouched. That meant I had to carefully plan around opening the spare tire location down below. The solution I came up with was to place the amps directly behind the sub box, and use a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the amp rack to allow the factory floor carpet covering to hinge up and provide spare tire well access on demand. To make good use of the amp rack's space with this 45 degree angle (like a triangle under the amp), I turned that space into a wire storage area, which cleaned things up considerably. I cannot stress to you how difficult it was to make this actually work vs. just installing a board w/ some amps on it. The level of tedious tight-fitting wiring alone made this one of the hardest installs I've ever done. Due to time constraints (I worked on this until last night at 11:30PM), we didn't clean the amps up or vacuum for a final clean look. If you can see past the dust and such, you'll see the final product. Take note, we used velcro to mate the hide board for now. Later we might use panel clips though:

















Here at the last moment some of the carpet got damaged, so there's bare wood here. We'll fix that later on.

















I'll also techflex, etc. etc. when time allows, but for now it works, it is safe, and it sounds very good. It also is completely hidden











So, I'm sore, sunburned, and tired beyond words, but that's how we do it, right?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

So, listening impressions? Or was there no time for that? Looks good BTW.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> So, listening impressions? Or was there no time for that? Looks good BTW.


Yes, I didn't get to hear it other than that it WORKED, and he's extremely pleased with the system's response. Granted, it is working off a tune from another vehicle's build, but it is within the ballpark amazingly enough. I'll see it in 2 weeks to tidy things up, and TUNE TUNE TUNE. I'm actually glad to give it that time, because the subs are in need of some break-in time. 

He said the bass can be felt extremely powerful and clean, and there are no rattles in the trunk since we're sealed from it pretty well.


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## Afronaut (Apr 27, 2010)

clean install...everything is concealed and the carpet in the trunk looks to be a good match


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

very nicely done, The contrast works well. But I do like the front wall and rear wall boards.
Nice smooth and clean, And best thing is you cannot see any screws or mounting point etc.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Thanks, guys. It was definitely one of the more difficult installs I've done, but rewarding. Can't wait to tune it!


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## eggyhustles (Sep 18, 2008)

Looks good


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## Surly (May 13, 2010)

I just bought a 2010 spec v....after some initial inspections tonight i am NOT looking forward to doing this install at all. Rear seats dont fold down, engine bay is so tight that i probably have to take the air intake apart to get my power cable through the fire wall

this model is suppose to come with two 8" subs factory installed as well...you would think they'd be easy to find but i cant see any sign of them...any ideas?

help


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Surly said:


> I just bought a 2010 spec v....after some initial inspections tonight i am NOT looking forward to doing this install at all. Rear seats dont fold down, engine bay is so tight that i probably have to take the air intake apart to get my power cable through the fire wall
> 
> this model is suppose to come with two 8" subs factory installed as well...you would think they'd be easy to find but i cant see any sign of them...any ideas?
> 
> help



You will absolutely have to take the intake out to get your power wire in I bet. If it is anything like the one I did, you will also have to remove the whole battery tray because its actually part of the intake! It only took 15 minutes to take apart, and 10 minutes to put together, first time. Second time (yeah, we dropped a bolt down there), it took 1/2 that. You can do it.

My brother (in-law) said that with the seats up, the three 10's sound just great. If the seats are down, it gets even more exciting, and that wiggly feeling on the scalp can be felt pretty easily.


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## Surly (May 13, 2010)

Unfortunately the big difference between my install and yours is that you did a nice job insulating the subs from the trunk. I have a rather large ported factory made box that i would like to keep simply because i dont have the tools or know-how to make a quality box myself. 

pic of my box: http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1309/x065spg555pf.jpg

With no way to move air in-out im worried that i'll get more sound out of the trunk vibrating and rear deck hitting the back window then from the sub itself. 


Also, I found this wiring diagram, its for a 2009 but for the most part this is still pretty accurate: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/2009_Sentra/AV.pdf


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Got an idea for you here... you could easily shove that box to the front, right behind the rear seats. Then, build a board that seals up against the BACK of that box there, which would indeed seal up the sub to the cabin area.

That looks like a nice box to start with though. I would build an amp rack on top of that box and install my amps on top of it all... and carpet it black. Doesn't take much to make an amp rack, really. A few quick cuts, some spray adhesive, carpet and a drill. 




Surly said:


> Unfortunately the big difference between my install and yours is that you did a nice job insulating the subs from the trunk. I have a rather large ported factory made box that i would like to keep simply because i dont have the tools or know-how to make a quality box myself.
> 
> pic of my box: http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1309/x065spg555pf.jpg
> 
> ...


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## Surly (May 13, 2010)

Fortunately my amp has adjustable mounting feet so the amp rack shouldnt be needed, hopefully theres enough height that i can mount it right on the top. I'll put the sub in tonight as you mentioned and see how it fits. Did you just screw that board to the back of the sub box you made?

Man i'm not going to make it till tonight...going to go home and put the box in at lunch so i have something else to think about


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Yeah, just try to screw in to places that the box won't be damaged, like on its sides and tops/bottoms. The idea is to keep the sub's output from getting bounced around all in the trunk, and instead having it make it to the cabin without issue. It is all experimentation, and messing around, but its probably worth a piece of wood to find out if it helps. That would also clean up the look of the system in the trunk, as all you would see would be a simple carpeted board sorta like the one I did.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hey guys, I managed to renovate this system a bit for more room and a better design. I am quite pleased with the turn-out:

Trunk depth increased several inches, amps and processor were relocated a bit. Overall trunk space is quite functional now








If you stoop down, you will see that I mounted the 3sixty.2 to the factory metal of the trunk, which I carpeted first to complete the look as best I could




















Front appears unchanged at first

















But closer inspection reveals the amps are hidden to the sides of the box. It is a tight fit, but it works thanks to the design of the amps

















So, job done, owner is happy with the vastly improved trunk space, and of course spare tire is 100% accessible.


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

I like installs like this where the spare tire is still accessible. good work, looks great.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

kizz said:


> I like installs like this where the spare tire is still accessible. good work, looks great.



TY!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

weren't you going to do a ported enclosure? for hair tricks?


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> weren't you going to do a ported enclosure? for hair tricks?


That was a possible plan but I think common sense got the better of him (brother in law, owner of the car), and I think one look at the Alumapro subs up close and personal was what it took for him to decide to go this route. Its a good thing, because he uses that trunk space constantly!

It is still REALLY loud and clean.


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

Bump

Fourth, how do sealed subs sound in the cabin like that? Does gabin gain still come into play like it would... say in a sealed box facing the rear of the trunk with the seats down? That's how mine is currently picking up solid low end response.

I keep flip flopping on what I want to do with my sub stage; sealed vs. ported, sub up, back, or forward sealed off from the trunk. 

This build log of yours is a MASSIVE inspiration to encourage me to look deeper into this type of configuration. My only concern is losing low bass response from sealing off the trunk. Maybe that's just needless paranoia. 

BTW, I have a single 15 inch RE SE/x.

Thanks bro!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Hiya... its a battle with these types of vehicles, dealing with which direction the box should face. If the top board had cutouts to it that would allow venting to the cabin, I would have faced the subs backward like I did in my Acura TL 

















But I did this in the Acura because the stock subwoofer was removed and that large opening made for an effective vent to the cabin. This vehicle also does not have fold-down seats btw.

The issue with the Sentra is, ...do you flip them around and deal with potential cancellation issues (likely, given the interference effect going on in the trunk), or do you compromise like I did here and face them forward, negating the cabin gain to a large degree. Take note this configuration also has cancellation issues, but we have done our best to stop this by sealing off the front from the trunk with extra carpet padding, Ensolite, and close tolerances. You know the best possible solution would be to have those subs in the very back of the trunk, firing backward almost like a wedge against the back. Of course this pretty much ruins any trunk space opportunity you have, so compromise becomes the name of the game.

That said, the position they are in now is lacking the sound of very low bass, but retains the FEEL. It is a strange sensation, noticing everything shaking like hell, but not being able to hear it. I also would have been much more disappointed if I hadn't had the processing power of the 3sixty.2 on hand. Low bass frequencies had to be boosted, and as I rose up in frequency I cut more and more, until it sounded pretty good. Those very low frequencies boosted mean that I need much more unclipped power, so the ~1200W amp I have in use here is needed and I'm glad I have it onboard. If I were to do it again, I would definitely consider firing backwards but what I would do is build a test box and measure. This was not something I had time to do with this particular build (Brother in law in military, I was lucky to get the build time I had honestly), but I'm sure testing would have proven the best solution and I could then improve the system's response dramatically.

One thing is for sure...with the windows down, the car is audible for blocks. Windows up, ...not really audible at all. much different than a trunk car.



Danometal said:


> Bump
> 
> Fourth, how do sealed subs sound in the cabin like that? Does gabin gain still come into play like it would... say in a sealed box facing the rear of the trunk with the seats down? That's how mine is currently picking up solid low end response.
> 
> ...


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## Danometal (Nov 16, 2009)

Fourthmeal, I'm glad I came back to this today. I'm not getting any more e-mail notifications for some reason.

Looking carefully over your words, it seems that I may have had the right idea all along, albeit nowhere near as sick looking as your install!!

Anyway, what I've done is (I should take pics soon when I do the front stage and new amp rack and post my own build log):

1). Low profile carpeted MDF amp rack right behind seat folding/trunk opening. It's about 9 inches deep by 30 inches long by 2.5 inches thick. All wiring is neatly under the rack. 

2). Butted right up to that is the sub box for the SE/x 15 that I purposely built narrow and deep. It's 16.5 inches square by 24 inches deep. That brings the cone about 4 inches from the rear of the trunk, and leaves uber space on either side for cargo. It can be slid to either the right or left for bulkier objects if needed, but as it is, I can pack much groceries and other cargo on either side of the box.

I tried out a 4 cube 31 hz box back there, and while loud as it could be, I had ZERO trunk. Cargo got tossed into the back seats without failure or exception. I got mad and tossed the sub back in the 2.6 cube square bass cannon box and here I am jacking your thread 

I think you've unknowingly encouraged me to leave well enough alone, as all that space on either side of the sub box, as well as no cancellation issues with the cone all the way back gives me buckets of free cabin cain from the trunk.

BTW, I envy anyone in your family who askes you to build them a system.


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

damn wish you were my brother in law, you got another sister?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hey Fourth!

Ok so I'm trying to understand what you're saying about the subs. 

You have the subs facing rear in the Acura correct? I think that's waht I'm seeing and then you have the center of the seat cut out. 

The Sentra has the three subs facing front, and I'm assuming sealed from cabin to trunk. Are they played mostly with the seat up or down? is there a vent in the seat like in the acura? 

In your opinion which sounds better, which application? 

I'm thinking of this, subs facing the cabin, in my civic. I also have the center fold down arm rest on the back seat which I'll be cutting out, as well as the whole back seat folds down. I'm using 2 Hertz High Energy 300D 12's and plan to power both with a 1000 watt mono amp each. I like the thought of the subs facing the cabin, but I also want what's going to sound best. I'm also trying to decide if sealed or vented is going to be best. 

I'd like your input if you could. Thanks!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

eviling said:


> damn wish you were my brother in law, you got another sister?


lol. Brother in law as in... my wife's brother. 

weird.

But I if it weren't for you on the complete opposite side of the states...I'd happily help.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Lots of questions so answers in *Bold*



scooter99 said:


> Hey Fourth!
> 
> Ok so I'm trying to understand what you're saying about the subs.
> 
> ...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hey good answers, I'll take all that and go do some testing! Thanks for the response! Nice work by the way!


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

ugh... stumbled across this thread while searching for something else, but as my sister just bought a 2010 sentra and i promised her a little more bass i had to read it. 

after reading this i am not looking forward to connecting the power. was it really that hard to redo everything? i am only sticking a single 8, maybe 2 (jbl gto804), into sealed glassed corner boxes in the trunk that will see 200-250 each. she has 2 little dogs and one of the major selling points for her was the huge area when the rear seats are folded down for the dogs to be in. i thought it was going to be somewhat easy as i only had to run power/remote to the trunk and use a loc of the rear for input.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

nineball said:


> ugh... stumbled across this thread while searching for something else, but as my sister just bought a 2010 sentra and i promised her a little more bass i had to read it.
> 
> after reading this i am not looking forward to connecting the power. was it really that hard to redo everything? i am only sticking a single 8, maybe 2 (jbl gto804), into sealed glassed corner boxes in the trunk that will see 200-250 each. she has 2 little dogs and one of the major selling points for her was the huge area when the rear seats are folded down for the dogs to be in. i thought it was going to be somewhat easy as i only had to run power/remote to the trunk and use a loc of the rear for input.


My experience with Sentras, and any newer import for that matter, is that the smaller the power wire, the easier. This holds true for any install, but more so in today's jam-packed Japanese engine compartments. A single 4-gauge will most likely be adequate, smaller (6 or 8) if you can shorten the run.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

i'm not worried about running the wire, it's the battery connection that has me worried.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

nineball said:


> ugh... stumbled across this thread while searching for something else, but as my sister just bought a 2010 sentra and i promised her a little more bass i had to read it.
> 
> after reading this i am not looking forward to connecting the power. was it really that hard to redo everything? i am only sticking a single 8, maybe 2 (jbl gto804), into sealed glassed corner boxes in the trunk that will see 200-250 each. she has 2 little dogs and one of the major selling points for her was the huge area when the rear seats are folded down for the dogs to be in. i thought it was going to be somewhat easy as i only had to run power/remote to the trunk and use a loc of the rear for input.



I went out and looked at the stock battery terminal thing I kept in storage, and I think if you work with 4 gauge (or 8), you'll be fine with a simple ring terminal on the factory terminal. The rest... I'll leave up to you. lol.


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## Stimpsonj (Oct 12, 2010)

Hey nice setup. Had a question for you sense you seem to be the only one online sharing. Can I hook up to the battery terminal without messing with that fuse box. I really dont want to hurt my new car or be constanly blowing those fuses. I have installed several amps before but on older model cars. I will be installing a 1500w amp not sure on the brand I think its quantum audio but im not sure. Any imput would be nice.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Stimpsonj said:


> Hey nice setup. Had a question for you sense you seem to be the only one online sharing. Can I hook up to the battery terminal without messing with that fuse box. I really dont want to hurt my new car or be constanly blowing those fuses. I have installed several amps before but on older model cars. I will be installing a 1500w amp not sure on the brand I think its quantum audio but im not sure. Any imput would be nice.



Pop the hood and check the battery connection. You can probably get an 8 gauge, maybe a 4 gauge setup going via the existing battery terminal-fuse system. But that's it.


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## bimmerman11 (Aug 27, 2009)

Very clean install.


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