# 2009 Accord 6n6 coupe SQ Build



## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

*2009 Accord 6n6 coupe budget SQ Build*

Whats going on guys,

I'm new here but have spent sometime on here trying to soak some knowledge in..
Decided I might as well share this budget build for anybody interested

Some background on me- military, turbo Honda builds, i pretend to play guitar and am currently finishing up a bachelors in mechanical engineering. I know my way around a car and this I will consider to be my 1st audio setup 5 cars and systems later haha... however I can't say I have any in depth knowledge in the AC and DC genre outside of kirchoffs current and ohm's law. I have a very basic understanding of audio and enjoy learning new Stradegy, technique, and knowledge.
Always listening so please suggest away... 


The car- 2009 accord coupe v6 6 spd fully loaded "premium" audio with nav.

The equipment-6 1/2 hybrid audio imagines-midrange
2 jl audio zr800 - midbass
1 jl audio 10" w6
2 100$ kenwood 6 1/2s rearfill
Jl audio hd750/1
Jl audio xd600/6 2x75 midrange 4bridged to 200x2 midbass
Jbl ms8 fully active, rearfill and tweets 2x20
"Kalagus" method

I need this system to appear completely stock aside for midbass enclosures which will allow me to turn down those hitch hiking friends 

Past problems same car-I had the hd750 w6 and imagines installed before off a low end jl 2ch amp I was content with iPod and CDs but the jx jl amp had quite a bit of noise coming from it, throwing my radio signal down the ****ter so I returned it and bought more stuff, funny how that works...
To combat the radio interference I wrapped the 0 gauge into cabin and the two 4 gauge wires running the length of the car along with the powered speaker wire in copper tape and grounded it out. Hopefully this solved my problem though I won't know till the entire systems together..

Listening habits- the blues... Occasional house music bc it can sound incredible mixed correctly?
Anyways I know what a tube amp sounds like and how a guitar should be amplified and I have an ear for that "warmth" too bad the pockets don't go deep enough.


What's done so far? 
All wiring, I spliced in before factory amp for differential rca's into the ms8 these are also copper taped and grounded, front components 3/4 baffels I also felt like i was possibly getting reflections from the oem speaker grills. I cut them out and fabbed some old wire mesh speaker grills that matched the interior, i swivel mounted the twitters in sail panels, deadened doors and rear shelf, built a sealed enclosure for the w6, an ok amp rack in the trunk while I mounted the jbl ms8 under the passenger seat.

What's left?
I am going to glass some sealed wedges for the zr's that will be molded behind the driver and passenger seat, where the rear passengers feet would be. Carpeted black to match the interior.

A lot of this may not provide a good sense of the build but I will get pictures up later tonight and you can let me know what you think of my fab work.


ok on to pics...the cars a mess my apologies

the patient..










interior and oem stereo interface..



















here are the swivel tweets



















Stock door panel grills, I started to cut already..


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

more pics...

Stuff..










Will be rewrapped in matching trunk carpet.. 











Coppertape, power side..










Rca side










ms8 wired up under passenger seat..










heres the rear seat footwell where I will glass 2 0.75 sealed wedge shaped enclosures. It will be wrapped in the exactly same interior black carpet for stealth purposes.










the trunk










the amp rack coming together...










Thats all for now finals are coming up so Im not too sure how steady progress will be the next 2 weeks, thanks for stopping by!!!


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## wannabesq (Apr 13, 2011)

Lookin good so far. Eager to see more, since I have an 08 coupe.


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## Z-Roc (Mar 22, 2012)

nice work!! post some more pics


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## focused313 (Apr 19, 2012)

so far so good


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## knowledge (Dec 13, 2010)

very nice were u get that copper tape


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Whats up guys,

Thank you for all the great compliments, adds some fuel to the build.

As for the copper tape, The first roll my dad(electrical engineer) brought me thought i should give it a try to surpress noise. 2nd roll i searched the internet and found a guy with a 2" x 18' roll of 3m coppertape.
Dont even waste your time with a roll smaller then 1 1/2" lots of tidious work.

Real quick guys, Im giving my younger brother the imagines so I need a new set of components or piece something together.

the 8 inch jls dont fit in the doors so im forcing myself to stay with something like a 6 1/2 in the doors and tweets in the sails any opinions? I like a warm sounding driver and i have the 6ch to work with.

My thoughts are im trying to get an L6 and some clarus tweets from scott or tom but theres no way Im paying full price so I need some ideas..



Started glassing the jl 8" zr wedges... more pics as asked



Imagines..coming out





























































































Work in progress, hopefully il have more to show soon enough


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Yea, well I decsided to ditch the Zr's too much hassle and I felt like I was over complicating it a bit, especially considering this is my first build worthy of mentioning..

So I started looking around.. went to a few places in my area where they have a demo board of hertz looking for a nice two-way set to run active. To be honest for the money the hertz didnt do much at impressing me, I would of rather stuck with the imagines at $250.

Dilemma..? I dont think so,


I shot Scott an email, gave my little brotha some imagines, and now Im waiting on some L6v2's and L1 Pros...hope they bring the happiness im looking for 

Picked up another 10sq ft of deadner for the doors some more wire should have updates up next week.


Not sure if I want to put the L1pros in the Apillar 5-15 degrees off axis saving the sail panels for a midrange at some point or molding them on axis in the sail panels, well see... 

Until then..


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

4 days later...






















First impressions...

Some of the nicest speakers Ive had my hands on, which doesnt say much considering i havnt had my hands on many but they sure are motivating..

yea so sunday i hope to have some time to work on the car, Im trying to decside if I want to mold the tweets in the a pillars or not. I played with ideas.. thinkn I'll leave the sail panel empty for a little midrange down the road, any thoughts?













The new equipment list, and current schematics as of now.

Hybrid Audio L6
Hybrid audio L1pro
1 jl audio 10" w6
2 100$ kenwood 6 1/2s rearfill(going to go RCA out of the ms8 and input into the factory 50 watt per ch amp
Jl audio hd750/1
Jl audio xd600/6 2x75 to the tweet, 4bridged to 200x2 to the L6
Jbl ms8


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Got some boring updates...

I ran out of sound deadener the first go around on the doors. 
Today I was able to really deaden the doors and ran the L1pros some new knu wire into the snail panels where they will be mounted. Thankfully my imagine baffles fit the L6s aside from a small bevel needed on the inside of the baffle.
Waiting for Ensolite to finish up this passenger side.











The grey mat is actually a yoga pad caulked on to the sound deadener, it works...


On another note I felt the need to tear out the passenger side speaker wire running into the door for the L6 and the Ms-8s power wire. I did this bc they both run across the car, theres a small openning for this behind the navi and factory headunit.










Before today they were not shielded to prevent noise, I went ahead and unwired everything so I could copper tape both wires plus the new tweet wires. 

I figured 200rms, 8gauge for the ms8 and 75rms on the tweets must be producing a considerable amount of noise without testing. Plus all run right behind the factory headunit next to my radio signal input. As i said before I had some noise issues with both amps on only with the radio though. So I copper taped em up and resnaked them through. It could only help right....











And wrapped with electrical tape to prevent...anything in those tight spaces...










Youll aslo notice the copper tape literally taped to the car chassis next to the hood release this is one of the grounds.


back to work..


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## trumpet (Nov 14, 2010)

Ask your dad if speaker wire is a source of inducted noise and let us know his response.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

I don't see or talk with him too often, he mentioned it to me about the power wires and the radio noise, he told me it couldn't hurt... I guess I took it upon myself to tape up the speaker wire and ran with it...

Sure thing next time im over, Although you sound pretentious, if you know something that I could benefit from By all means share the knowledge I'm listening...


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## trumpet (Nov 14, 2010)

It's been discussed recently on this site about whether speaker wire can be a source of inducted noise, and the answer was no, because of the low impedance. Here's the thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...io-discussion/129413-shield-speaker-wire.html

I thought it might be interesting if you got an explanation from your dad being he's an EE.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Right on that was a good read, thanks.

Im not sure if my noise issues are necessarily the same demon, the setup sounded great with no noise issues played on cd and iPod.

heres how my scenario unfolded...
JLjx360.2 and a hd750 same wiring configuration (2) 4 gauge wires plus (2) 12 gauge speaker wires ran the length of the driver side no copper tape.

Cd iPod played flawless, radio had static on certain stations. 

Jx360 unplugged hd750 still connected, radio stations were almost static free but not good enough for the morning commute.

My conclusion a noisy jl amp..

my dads remarks, noisy power wires inducting upon the radio signal wire running to the head unit from the back windshield? copper tape couldn't hurt...

I feel that in this case I'm using EMI to contain itself, or is containing and shielding one and the same... 

I really don't know, I'll see what his thoughts are. 

In any case I will be able to share my before and after results..


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

some pics, got to open up the legatia speakers.

Thank you scott, customer service is second to none... the speakers look serious! 
Ive spent most of my "audio builds" with less then stelar midrange and top end dumping most of the money on the subs... silly me..
























































Im not sure how im going to mount the tweet yet but im not going t glass the sail panel id rather play with the plastic grill the hole is cut in... that piece is only $5 compared to $50.. 
I couldnt tell you what ill do exactly but well see where it goes..



















some L6 action




















maybe some progress tomorrow night...


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

nice!!!

I like that your willing to experiment on this build!! Nice clean ride too.


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## internationlriders (Nov 7, 2009)

I really like your car choice, first 2 door accord that a really tall guy can fit comfortably in with a slick interior... last car I bought was a 4 door just because I couldn't fit otherwise.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Thank you for the kind words guys...

The Accord coupes cabin is gigantic for a coupe! Its bigger then a couple of 4dr including a tsx. In fact hondas going to chop off 4 inches of interior space on the next model..

I test drove my friends accord coupe v6 auto and wasnt impressed with the supposid 280hp 250ft tq most likely the trans and that mileage saver cylinder shut down program... got into the 6 spd at a dealership and fell in love, it now had some balls! and manages to average 24mpg (that took a while)

So here are the sail panels... 
























































So Im quite busy with work I decsided against any fiberglassing at this point in time.

what I am going to do is if you see that grill piece behind the tweeter on one side behind that grill piece ill use 3m plastic expoxy to build up a better angle the tweets will shoot at.

this stuff..











lemme add I used to do auto body back in HS and have been building amulti stage 4dr integra since the marines in 06.
I have used Evercoat products from the beginning..I am not going to crack open a sealed gallon of rage gold to seal up the plastic grill holes so I figure I can either use their polyflex glazing putty or a couple of years ago Evercoat sent me some of their other products to try out (thats customer recognition!) needless to say i never tried it so I have this quantum line epoxy bondo.. 

Heres both of that stuff...


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Heres my integra when I picked up a JDM type R front end, it came with a raised flat spot on the front of the bumper where the liscense plate would go, Using the 3m platic epoxy, polyflex and some experience I managed this...So the stuff is works GREAT on plastic applications...


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

heres how we did...
Used the polyflex.... and the best part about this stuff... its flexible!!!!!!!

Im going to let it cure tonight and then shoot it with a satin black, if I dont like how that edge is still seen I guess il mold it in..


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## jcollin76 (Oct 26, 2010)

^^^that looks great!


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

^^^^
+1, the contast is actually interesting.


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## tai01 (Dec 11, 2011)

Can't wait to see the rest of the build and the L6s go into the front doors. Where are you putting the L6s anyway? Are you going to build a baffle to mount them or the depth is small enough for direct mount?


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## abdulwq (Aug 17, 2008)

waiting for more pics....


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

jcollin76, sydmonster- Thank you very much, I was feeling the contrast as well, Ive been searching for a leather vinyl to match the black dash as the contrast behind the tweet. So far no luck..

tai01- thanks, the L6s are going in the doors, I had made out of 3/4 mdf baffles for my imagine 6 1/2s, I was able to reuse them for the L6s Just had to give a little bevel on the ID of the baffle. As for the door itself the L6s are beefy and had a pretty wide basket so I had to trim a little of the doors sheet metal to open up that speaker hole.

pics...








































One door down, time for the other...ugh


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## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

You are using the factory radio in this?have you disconnected the noise cancellation mics in the car?there is a noise canceling system in that car, because of the exhaust and engine and intake,it messes with the low end,mainly.one of the mics is in the overhead dome light between visors,and one is just above the rear seats on the edge of the rear deck(tiny little hole,less than 1/8 of inch.you don't have to remove rear deck,just pull up a lil bit and squeeze your fingers in there,you can feel the tab on the clip,unplug it,and unplug front mic too,may want to wrap plugs in thin foam so as not to rattle.the first accord coupe I did really through me for a loop,just added sub with a hi to low adapter and wow,you don't notice it till you start driving.this system works with the radio off as well.good luck.looks good!


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Hey man thanks but luckily in the 6spds they got rid of the ANC mics. 
This is the 2nd system being in my Accord now, first system sounded great for what it was with the w6 in back, this system hopefully with blow that away.

Honestly I live in the north jersey area and I would love to meet someone that could blow me away with their system so that I have something to work up to, unfortunatly friends over here throw a couple subs in and call it a system.

So Il get more pics up soon, been busy at work so havnt had as much time as id like to finish this bad boy up


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Just a quick update:

I could wait no longer and needed to hear the front stage hooked up to the xd600.6 and ms8.
I spent some time, in an ugly and undocumented way and started setup with the ms8 took a couple hours of listening and re-running setup till I said okay just listen now.

Honestly the tweets sounded great! but were missing that dynamic snap of a guitar when I turned the system up. The midbass...what midbass I expected more from the L6... Dont get me wrong the system sounded GREAT!!!! my girl and her friends were listening to Pink floyd in astonishment, felt good lol, but I wasnt satisfied..

I ended up coughing it up to not enough power and sent the xd back to crutchfield and waiting for new stock of an HD600/4 to compliment the HD 750/1 i run. Good stuff.


Next order of business, I am a big Jeff beck fan and couldnt wait to hear his lovely bass player Tals solo in "cause we've ended as lovers" live at ronnie scotts anyway the solo is vibrant, soul with authority with phones on but in the car on the ms8 its lifeless and feels like its mixed into the background instead,
can someone confirm this case or maybe has ideas about whats going on...


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Well that was quicker then expected...

Looks like they were meant to be.. These two guys are going to be seen rather than hidden now! 





















dayton caps for the tweets










And about the 10th order from knu...ugh











a pic of the lonely ms8 waiting for some signal.......












Heres where I think Im heading with the trunk, using 85% wood to mold the box on the driverside and then wrapping it with the exact carpet. let me know your thoughts the box will be secured with an L bracket to the square bar the runs along the the underside of the rear shelf.



















Im looking to maximize space but keep it classy not big on gawdy, so Im not sure about where to mount the amps, if anybody wants to take a stab on these pics Id appreciate the ideas. I landscape when Im not in school so I often carry plants and tools back there, silly as that sounds lol...


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Yea, So Im getting ready to finish this build lol...Got caught up in school and what not.

I have l3se's coming in and Im thinking of putting them either in the sail panels or on the dash not sure yet.

I dont want to add another amp to the car so I was wondering if you guys think I would be ok running the L6s and L3s off the 600/4. Crossing the L3s at like 12Khz and throwing the L1pros on the ms8 amp? or should I cross them higher? I mean it shouldnt take much to run the L1pros that high right it should give my higher Hz's an airyness to them.

Ill get some pics up soon I have lots to do now. I want to rerun all my wires and put some solid neat connections in there
. 
Any tips on a nicer connection that can be had between my 4gauge and distibution block. I really dont like how well the block holds the wire.
I started an ELT class in my mech eng cirriculum, trying to start cleaning up my bad habbits and amatuerness.


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## derickveliz (May 15, 2009)

LovesMusic said:


> I have l3se's coming in and Im thinking of putting them either in the sail panels or on the dash not sure yet.


*If I had this car, I would put the L3se's in the kick area! running from 250Hz to 8kHz.* or even try tweeter-less!











.


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

LovesMusic said:


> Yea, So Im getting ready to finish this build lol...Got caught up in school and what not.
> 
> I have l3se's coming in and Im thinking of putting them either in the sail panels or on the dash not sure yet.
> 
> ...


To be honest, knowing how the MS-8 is doing its tune (in theory), you have the wrong processor for the job... 
Running any driver way above beaming with an MS-8 is asking for trouble - processor polar will be poor off-axis and the MS-8 won't be able to deal with it... 
If you want to run your L3SE @ 12kHz, sell the MS-8 and buy something that will let you do it correctly. 

Kelvin


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Forgive me for my ignorance in this matter subwoofery, but I did some reading on beaming and it is from my understanding that beaming is almost unavoidable especially in a car without something like a 5-6way speaker set up. Beaming becomes a big problem under off-axis conditions. The way I see it happening is higher Hz waves coming from the outter edges of the cone have trouble dispersing with all the other point sources they are surrounded by on the driver. Thus beaming, causing all sorts of peaks and valleys, beaming correlates with the radius of the driver, Hz, and distance from source. Since beaming is unavoidable, we can according to prior posts from "chad" use beaming to our advantage. we control the beam...point source

Im thinking driver side 5 degrees off axis at about 1 1/2 ft from my left ear, passenger side +/-5 degrees of the adjacent angle from my right ear.
Crossed at 8-10khz encompassing the vocal range.

I by no means have any grasp on the fundamentals of beaming, or dispertion.. This is what I can make sense in my head so far, please feel free to correct me or add, better yet, some formulas?

I mean if beaming is the route of all evil with the ms8, then it had one hell of a difficult time eq'ing my L6s at 70 degrees off-axis in the doors to 5k, that or just a nice big trench in the Fr. Which I hope to fill with the L3se's


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## subwoofery (Nov 9, 2008)

LovesMusic said:


> Forgive me for my ignorance in this matter subwoofery, but I did some reading on beaming and it is from my understanding that beaming is almost unavoidable especially in a car without something like a 5-6way speaker set up. Beaming becomes a big problem under off-axis conditions. The way I see it happening is higher Hz waves coming from the outter edges of the cone have trouble dispersing with all the other point sources they are surrounded by on the driver. Thus beaming, causing all sorts of peaks and valleys, beaming correlates with the radius of the driver, Hz, and distance from source. Since beaming is unavoidable, we can according to prior posts from "chad" use beaming to our advantage. we control the beam...point source
> Beaming is affected by cone diameter - saying that it is unavoidable is not totally correct - crossing below the beaming point is one way to "control" it
> 
> Im thinking driver side 5 degrees off axis at about 1 1/2 ft from my left ear, passenger side +/-5 degrees of the adjacent angle from my right ear.
> ...


Well, let's say that there a 2 schools for tuning around beaming: 
- using a crossover below beaming in order to keep polar response wide 
- use beaming to our advantage in order to control reflections 
No real right or wrong, just different way to achieve nirvana  

MS-8 way of doing processing is by "spreading the chaos" = keep polar response wide - meaning it won't work if you plan to cross your driver way higher than its beaming point... 
You can surely help beaming by using the L3SE in between your L6 and tweeter but if you're really planning to use the MS-8, I suggest you try to keep your crossover point below 7kHz (usually 5kHz for a 3" driver) http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/29124-power-beaming.html

Kelvin


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

Subscribed!!!!! Nice work.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

audio+civic said:


> Subscribed!!!!! Nice work.


Thank you!!!

I know this has been long over due, dont have to many pics of how I finished the build up but it didnt last long till I wanted to start tinkering again...

I finished the tweets with material from a raybans case I had, The amps were decoupled from the sub box, I was happy with the trunk...
Dont mind the dirty car :blush:


without further adoooo...

















































The next phase, new runs of Ofc 4 gauge, techflex, False floor trunk for the 3 amps, L3se's will be glassed into the sail panels and vented into the door card, L1pros will be mounted on the Apillars using those machined pods found here on the site(once funds are available), more sound deadening mass loader(once funds are there), and a new sub stage for the HD750/1.
I was happy with the 10"w6v2 for rock (most listened to) lacked some on electronic and rap... It served me 4 yrs and nows sold...

So for the next substage I was thinking of trying 2 8"s in the cabin, using the glassed wedges I started in the beginning of the build that sit one each behind each front seat... Or do I go 2 10"s in the trunk I dk yet SUGGESTIONS?


New Stuff next phase....


Heres where the L3s will go ...




















Horrible pic sorry, not much room to work with but Ill git r done...







































Matches the interior, called snake skin, too bad wont be seen





















Now for my new favorite, I loved these guys back when.. picked up a slash v2 300.4 brand new from crutchfield, full waranty... kicker...paid $300
I may recieve some hate for this but honestly I feel like the slash series are better built and solid compared to the HDs... not too mention I like the a/b class on the mids and tweets... maybe I have some wack ass ears, but I liked the sound of some cheapo a/b amps on the L1pros to the HDs..warmer? pleasant distortion? call it what you want... 





















So now I have SOOOO MANY options on how to run the car on the ms8 with these 2 amps(HD600/4 & Slashv2 300/4)...
Please suggest and why?

HD bridged on L6s, Slash Xovers (5khz) on mids and tweets(would allow rear fill)?
HD on L6 and Tweets, Slash bridged on L3se's no rear fill?
HD on L6 and rear fill, Slash Xovers (5khz) on mids and tweets?
Many more ways.... thoughts?... of course I will play and listen too but this is some time away...



On another note, like i said I try to play guitar, I have a 30watt solid state roland cube, nothing special... but I love the snappiness of the guitar out the amp, I mean a quick chuck plugged in is music to my ears lol... how to i attain this in audio playback? can it be attained even? is this due to damping, Hz decay...?


Well thats all for now, this will be my first 3way setup look forward to all the work... stay tuned glassed sail panels are up next...


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Good to see progress on this sweet build! Keep going...



> On another note, like i said I try to play guitar, I have a 30watt solid state roland cube, nothing special... but I love the snappiness of the guitar out the amp, I mean a quick chuck plugged in is music to my ears lol... how to i attain this in audio playback? can it be attained even? is this due to damping, Hz decay...?


Two main things, 1. the speakers is playing a true analoge signal and not much else. No extra processing, compression, its a signal from your guitar amplified. Done! So it does it well. Next, the environment, trust me, play your guitar in a car at 40mph and it wont sound the same...
There's other factors, but not as influential as these two.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

sydmonster- ahhh compression, a lot of what you said makes sense now, too bad...
and thanks for the positive feedback with the build!

the semesters almost over now(another week or so) so with just work going on Ill be able to start getting work done...Ive been throwing around the idea of glassing the L3s under the dash but above the kickpanels in that area since I cant sacrifice the dead pedal...

I think Ive decsided on giving 2 10"idqs a shot in the trunk too... they are going to be forward facing this time.., and the front of em will be sealed off from the rest of the trunk, first time going this route but I hope to tame some vibrations and see what kind of sq I can get out of em if any... well see


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Alright, started on some pods in the sail panel for the L3SEs...

Tomorrow I will have to make a 1/2" thick speaker ring and ill be ready for glassing.. The round pods will vent straight down into the door card. They have to be set further out then I wanted, there just wasnt enough room behind the sail panel... Clip and back of pod will be reinforced using fiberglass and epoxy plastic..

Should come together nicely..


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## speakerpimp (Feb 15, 2012)

Great build so far, clean detail.


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## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

just in case you find this helpful...here's how I built sail panels from scratch. basically with a fiberglass back and bottom. attached to the mirror mount nuts.










then you can add a ring to mount speaker and close it up.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Speakerpimp-Thank you, Im trying pretty hard!

Jtaudioacc-I wish you would have posted earlier... that seems like a far more simple route, your pods/whole build drove me to this point..you do nice work, As for me this is my first pod build so Ive been struggling to say the least.

Im hoping the way I went does not cause problems later on.. but I have the driverside done and ready for glass, What do you think..?


I Like it..


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## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

that should work. only concern i'd have is if it stays after continuously closing the door. a lot more added weight there on the pop clip. maybe you can get a strap on one nut inside.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Thanks JTaudio, Before glass hits anything Im going to reinforce the pop clip with 3m plastic epoxy and then further reinforce with glass...Along with some what of a rest for the pod where it comes out the door card, basically molding the pod on the top of the door panel, along with some velcro on the back of the pod. Snag a nut using a plumbers bracketing? Im going to look into that too.. 
Any whoo Im waiting on hearing back from Scott at HAT about the pods if I have enough back space and such for the L3s..? before I start glassing..


Orders placed.. some 100' 14 gauge OFC from parts express 
along with a huge order from Knu.. 
Deadening ensolite and more OFc power wire and fuse distros..


On a side note I need an L3 grill set if anybody has a pair














I need the template and then Im going to make some speaker grills using this hexogonal aluminum grill material, havnt decided on leaving it or painting it yet..


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Well I got no where with the speaker pods


They are on hold till I get the trunk squared away... I have come to the decsion I will be glassing below the front glove box a tc sounds epic 8 so the trunk will have the amps... the ms8 will remain under the passenger seat to keep signal runs short.


This is going slowwww.... false floor build.. raising the floor about 2 inches, this trunk is quite the b**** Going to have to cut up the oem trunk liner. I deadened the trunk and rear shelf a bit more while I was back there too..

Itll have 2 somewhat small plexi cut out windows to view the amps and a few leds, which will have a carpeted template to remain steathy...It also requires I have my full spare and jack..

Dont know where Im mounting the fuse block yet, in the last pic (top left corner) is it definitely too close to the amps? It'll keep my power runs short.

Any advise or suggestions would be great as well... Im just going along with it for now..































If I get some more nice days Il be able to really hit this hard the next couple weeks...


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

You're coming along very nicely! I have a very basic question for you...with your door grills. In the first page pics, you cut the OEM grills out and had the aftermarket grills in place. It didn't look like the aftermarket grills were much (if any) larger in diameter than the OEMs so how did you attach them?

Are they actually attached to the door panel, because it didn't look like there was enough panel underneath to attach the aftermarket grills?

I've done the same thing in my vans in the past and was just wondering how you went about it, everything looks really good that you've done so far!


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Thanks nice guy.

For the aftermarket speaker grills... I kept the oem door card cut out, a tad smaller, or you can say the aftermarket grill was a tad big and your right I could not attach it from the front. I ended up using somewhat of a pressure fit... 
The aftermarket grill had 4 extended tabs on the back so I transfered them to the slightly smaller door card hole and then slid em into a pressure fit ...put a couple clamps and I epoxied the tabs backside of the door card... hope that made sense, I have no other pics to show unless I open the door up.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

I've never seen tabs like that on a grill but that worked really well! Keep it up...


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

I wana say some 8 year old kenwood or pioneer speaker grills... but thank you!


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

hey guys, 

Had off this week decided to revamp the system and head back to a 2way set up haha...

New subs, mids, and rear fill im anxious to hear as well...

I was hoping to be further and have a better update but I procrastinated...oh well
picked up about 50 more sq ft deadener, ccf, mlv.

I did not take pictures but I got the headliner down and matted the roof out, with plans for the floors, and rear quarter panels.
new subs will be sealed facing into the cabin to correct phase issues i was having and will be sealed from the trunk.

Hmm picked up some stinger 8000 rca's and am ditching knu. however would someone care to elaborate on ohm readings I get from the sets of rca's, I understand that when Xl and reactance is factored in changes will occur however...
Stinger 8000 series read= 1.6ohms
Knu cables = 0.4ohms


the revamp also includes a new angled baffle for the L6ses in the doors get that angle down best i can but I really dont want to hack up the door panels...re-wrap sail panels and move the MS-8 from under the passenger seat to back in the corner of the trunk. New ofc 14 and 12 gauge speaker wire runs as well as new ofc 4 gauge power wire.

sorry for the rambling on to the pics... most is deconstruction for now..



























rear shelf was finished already didnt take pics..

















scraping out orginal oem deadening on floor..

















my corner of the house...


































Ahhhh...beefyyy


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## jcwgibson (Jan 19, 2012)

I see you've made some front stage changes, care to comment, primarily relating to resolving your concerns with the MS-8. I'm staging for a 2008 Coupe now, so the more you figure out, the less I'll need to. I'm trying to talk myself into retaining the OEM head unit, it's a tough one.
Also, Navy vet, GI Billed my ass through a BSEE, it sucks (although the ME is much easier, lol) but well worth it, stick to it brother.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Favorite parts of the build, the honda owners honda bags...











Here Im running the "Right" front stage wire(14 & 12 guage) in a red marked techflex.



















Left channels for the front stage will be ran together in a blue marked techflex.

not much done, but I did get ccf and mlv on the floors and over and in the rear tires cabin. no pics sorry was busy bleedin everywhere lol..



Gibson- ya know I had a gibson in my unit.
so going back to 2way was based on possibly competeing in a stock class, The main concern I had with the ms8 was with the sub 80hz and below and phase. 

First audio build in the accord did not utilize any dsp I tapped into the balanced differential lines before the factory amp and went straight to my amps. Had no problems with any hz or phase relation problems.

With the ms8 the sub faced the rear of the trunk backed to the rear seat a good 4-5 ft away.. Omni directional subwoofer hz and 5 ft till reflection left me with all kinds of phase problems for the ms8 to deciefer. There was no midbass hz. 
Im almost 90% sure this is from phase, so the plan is to forward face subs into cabin with a wall that seperates it from the trunk.
anyway The accords stage, image and tone with the ms8 is fantastic! oem headunit keeps the factory look and my equipment safe, tho one could argue at a price of sq but it dont bother me.
BSEE bless you brother, Ive had a couple EE classes with my ME cirriculum, AC sure kicks the **** out of me and thats just the basics of rectangular polar wave manipulation. Im going to be transfering soon and changing my major to industrial engineering/manufacturing, should be interesting..

If you have any other specific questions dont hesitate to ask..Deadening the roof and rear shelf worked wonders btw..


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

you may want to consider trying to aim the midranges instead of just throwing them on the sail panels in whatever angle they fall at. i doubt aiming toward your emergency brake will be the best way to do it.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

req said:


> you may want to consider trying to aim the midranges instead of just throwing them on the sail panels in whatever angle they fall at. i doubt aiming toward your emergency brake will be the best way to do it.


thanks, certainly didnt fall or just throw em in tho... 
going 2way...tweet back in sail panel, never finished those sail panels...


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## jcwgibson (Jan 19, 2012)

Did you use any other line->low voltage conversion prior to the MS-8, think you mentioned non-active, that's where I'm starting on this ride, and maintaining a budget is key (New (old) house and two kids under 3).

College: 
PLEEEEEASE spend a little time researching (Indeed, Careerbuilder, Monster etc) before transitioning into a non-engineering curriculum. You really are far better off doing the ME and adding some advanced CAD (Pro-e, Softworks), PLC (really not that hard), QA(Six-Sigma, Kaizan) or other manufacturing related technologies. Hell, with what you're learning here you've got the building blocks for some ELEC technologies. Not preaching bro, just had a couple buddies go this route, I think one of them is managing a fabric store, the other is at the VA as a GS7. Get a tutor, take the math like a man (ankle grabbing accepted) and power through. It might take another year but I promise you'll be more marketable, with much more profitability.


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## LovesMusic (Mar 29, 2012)

Gibson which accord model do you have specifically?

If you have the premium audio you are able to tap right into the low voltage signal lines before the oem amp as they are already balanced differential lines, just solder some rcas. 
Youll take the front channels for your full range as they are xover'd after the amp and youll splice the subwoofer channel for your lows, I took them straight back to the amps, worked flawlessly with complete sprectrum.
no harness or line out required.


College- I would transfer to Rutgers for the industrial engineering, however I dont understand what you mean by a non-engineering cirricullum? I would still be recieving a bachelors of science as well as most if not all my ME courses would transfer. I am almost finished with my sophmore year :blush: calculus II is my next straight math course ugh and yes sir I have bent over many times to get my math in check with a tutor. However I find it much easier actually applying the math in courses such as statics, dynamics, kinematics, and calculus based physics. I am proficient in CAD, sketch-up, and inventor and currently learning basic tho I wish it was c++. Honestly Ive been taking some EE classes for electives bc I want to learn the basics but my brain is incapable of the math and abstract thinking required of an EE.
Well see..


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## jcwgibson (Jan 19, 2012)

I have a 2008 V6 auto coupe, loaded with the exception of Nav. The system actually doesn't sound horrible at low to low/moderate volume, that being the problem, the low/moderate portion. I have researched a few forums, with mixed reviews on utilizing the factory pre-amplified outputs, glad to hear you had decent results. I'll start simple, either or a 4 or 5 ch amp, strong front, and a single 10 or 12, but plan to evolve over time. Curious as to to 8"s upward facing in the rear deck (.6-.8 ^3 ft each)
I installed a simple 5ch system in the wifes Sequoia over xmas, and was mostly happy with the outcome. Just an inexpensive Fosgate 5ch, Infinity perfect components up front, coax rear, 10" inf sub, pioneer 440 in the dash. Will probably switch to a dual amp setup in her car and upgrade to a 3-way fr sound-stage, didn't realize how much room i had in the doors until I opened her up.
The last "serious" system I did was in a Celica I brought home from Japan in 2003, pioneer active utilizing PPI amps and Inf Perf speakers, great system. 
How much of a difference did you notice moving the mids/highs to A/B amplification. I do love the footprint of these D's, but my wifes D class does sound like it's missing something, I tuned to the extent of the head units abilities with an Agilent audio analyzer (another reason to be an EE, we get fun toys) but just can't seem to bring those mids to life properly. I did end up utilizing loudness settings (ARGHHHHHH) to compensate, which actually helped my <500Hz, but without additional Parametric equalization I fear she's at her limits. Anyways, it's the wifes car, and was simply a make her happy so I can have free reign on my car evolution. 

I'm curios to tap into the Honda's pre-amped lines and dump some pink noise through the CD player. Although, it is nice to be able to watch movies on road trips (replace HU), if they only made a better performing Double DIN (Active, why doesn't anyone make this?!?!?).

College: I may have mis-read your original post, I was thinking you were going towards "Engineering Technologies" which is what I was warning against, Industrial E is a great program, and much closer to EE than ME, lol. I have seen people struggling and get talked into the ET programs just so schools can still get there Engineering credit hour fees with a much less useful education, those are the underemployed of which I speak.
Math and understanding, I think you're in the worst of it now, Calc2, Calc 3 is more visible, 3d shapes and stuff and I found it much easier, Diff E Q, don't schedule any really tough classes with that one, YUCK, I really can't say anything good about that class. Are you using Mathematica or Matcad?, they can help a lot in visualizing some of the more complex math.
Programming, C++ is fading in a lot of industry, Java is much more prevalent. Basic is great for writing Macros in Excel or OriginPro, as an Engineer, you pump through data like a mad-man, I spent several years with the DOE at a particle accelerator, we were crunching Tbytes daily, macro's are your friend. Also learn GPIB interfacing, and LabView which is a growing tool. 
What is your Squidly background? I was an ET on subs.


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