# SQ Tundra (*NO CHINA STEREO!)



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

The base truck is a 07 Supercharged Tundra DC. 

It is my intent to have no china made items in the stereo. 

Source unit: OEM radio/PC/ custom multi-aux input switcher 
Front stage: Dynaudio Esotec 222
Front stage amps: (2X- 1 Mono each side) Sony XES M50
Sub: Morel Ultimo 10
Sub amp: Audison LRx 1.1K (Considering going to the 1.2K and second Ultimo 10)
Processors: Audison Bit 10D
Video/nav: Alpine (*Made in china, no choice for vid/nav). Also will be installing backup cam & connecting to PC for vids. 

I am taking this build slow so bare with me.

-ALSO NOTE THIS IS MY WORK TRUCK AND I SWAP VEHICLES EVERY FEW YEARS SO IT IS MY INTENT TO BE MINIMALLY INVASIVE! (*Others may also find this useful for lease or peeps like me who will pull equipment and for the next vehicle and dont want to leave too many scars). I am also making many of the items to coincide with the working aspect of the vehicle. My other driver is a BMW and may do a really nice install with that....but this is a work truck that I beat the **** out of daily. 

~JH















































Comments....suggestions??? 

~JH


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

def go with your gut and snatch up a 1.2k...I love mine! you wont regret


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

I think perhaps most of your gear have at least some internal components sourced from china heheheh

and dont forget the wiring...


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

In for this build. I have an 08 dc as well, man what I would do to have a supercharged on mine! How do you plan on implementing that ultimo 10?


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## xxx_busa (May 4, 2009)

Looking at your gear I'd bet 70% is all China source, are you allergic?


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


>


:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Dont forget most of the parts in the truck are made in China (if not all).


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## Complacent_One (Jul 2, 2009)

...come on fellas, don't shoot the guy down so soon...he is trying to do something many of us should respect.


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

Complacent_One said:


> ...come on fellas, don't shoot the guy down so soon...he is trying to do something many of us should respect.


Agreed!!! Its a hard reality to overcome, but at least he is attempting this! And by doing so he will obviously end up with great gear!!!


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## 88monte (Jul 26, 2011)

Well I hear the Germans do make some great audio! Love the concept of not using China made products, might have to re-do my plans for my Chevy rebuild. all American, is it even possible?


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

suzi427 said:


> Agreed!!! Its a hard reality to overcome, but at least he is attempting this! And by doing so he will obviously end up with *great gear!!!*


No doubt, he has some very nice audio grear.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Truth be known I understand the fact that many companies use china made stuff and barely skirt by the 51% rule or lie...its the ATTEMPT if nothing else. I can not (will not) do research to determine the percent of origin build...but if it says made in (other then china) I am taking it as face value. 



> def go with your gut and snatch up a 1.2k...I love mine! you wont regret


Done....(BTW: my wallet says f-you! LOL) 
A second Morel Ultimo 10 and Audison 1.2K has been ordered. THis should put 1500(ish) watts to each 10 at 1 ohm. 
I am feeling better about this choice....the 1.1K will only give 1 sub (2ohm) 800 watts. These Ultimos are 6db less efficient then the SC version. That thought alone was killing me. THe new stuff should be here in a week. 

Also....I have developed a repore with a local shop.....I am now getting prices better then online....and when I told him I wanted to give back the 1.1 and get a 1.2 there was none of the returning/restocking BS you would get from online places. 

I will not tell the dealership name but I was able to purchace the 1.2K for 1600$. Very happy with the service AND price. Typically I would expect to pay more for a local shop....you can guess I am happy as **** about the price. 



> In for this build. I have an 08 dc as well, man what I would do to have a supercharged on mine! How do you plan on implementing that ultimo 10?


I own a few Tundras, when I get in a non SC it kills me! Nothing better then kicking the crap out of a mustang, wrx sti or other 'fast' vehicles with a 5K pound truck! 

Truth is now with the other sub I dont know....I need to get it some thought!











In the shop with the amp to figure out how and where the amps are going go. This thing is surprisingly heavy (and big) for 400 watts! Because these amps are new and never played I was considering just hanging on to them....but why the hell not just use them!



Thanks for the nice comments......


~JH


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I own a few Tundras, when I get in a non SC it kills me! Nothing better then kicking the crap out of a mustang, wrx sti or other 'fast' vehicles with a 5K pound truck!
> 
> Truth is now with the other sub I dont know....I need to get it some thought!


Night and day difference between SC and non i'm assuming. Those cars won't even suspect anything until they hear that SC whine haha. 

Very nice gear you have for your install. You should be able to fit those amps on the back wall of the truck.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

These Magnuson/Eaton superchargers are roots type and are surprisingly quiet. I have done a 8% overdrive to increase boost a bit and modded the airbox to try and make the whine more noticeable but it is still pretty quiet. One cool thing is I get about 3-4 MPG better on the highway with the SC if I stay out of it (*Ok, doesnt save $ because you have to use premium). oh....and there is no comparison, crazy hp/tq, doesnt affect daily driving ability and is fun as all get out. If you are considering...DO IT!!!! Only real drawback is for some reason I need to replace my rear tires every 15K. 












> You should be able to fit those amps on the back wall of the truck.


Behind the seat is a last resort. I often have crap on my back seat (tools and whatnot) so it would be a huge pain to access them. I am want to put them under the rear seat on a motorized rack that slides from under the seat. There is currently a goofy OEM 'JBL' 8" and amp so where they are gone there should be a fair amount of room. 

~JH


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

I like your ideas of staying away from China stuff. It's almost impossible to do but at least you can minimize it.

The one thing I don't get is how the blower can increase gas mileage. You're running no boost during cruise and though the blower is likely in bypass mode you're still spinning the rotors, taking a couple hp to spin. I can understand a little boost raising the dynamic compression ratio a little. Or maybe it's the fact that you're generally at a lower rpm for a given acceleration but cruising down the freeway is the part that's hard to understand.

Is there any sort of intercooler/aftercooler for it (I know it's hard to implement on a roots), or maybe methanol injection? It looks nice.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> The one thing I don't get is how the blower can increase gas mileage. You're running no boost during cruise and though the blower is likely in bypass mode you're still spinning the rotors, taking a couple hp to spin. I can understand a little boost raising the dynamic compression ratio a little. Or maybe it's the fact that you're generally at a lower rpm for a given acceleration but cruising down the freeway is the part that's hard to understand.
> 
> Is there any sort of intercooler/aftercooler for it (I know it's hard to implement on a roots), or maybe methanol injection? It looks nice.


Liquid to air intercooler, increased heat exchanger and higher flow pump to prevent heat soak. 

Truth is I am not 100% sure why. You are correct that it is a bypass SC but I do know it makes some boost at cruise. I always thought it had to do something with TPS % and the amount of HP needed to drive at (X) speed. Because the motor is making more HP it requires less TPS % OR improved AFR (*or combo). 


NOTE: I wrote above and then found this on the Magnuson site:

Will a supercharger kill my fuel economy? That depends on how you drive. Many customers see an increase in their fuel economy with the supercharger. With the Radix system for example, a 2 to 3 m.p.g. increase is not unusual. The supercharger actually reduces the pumping loss of the engine. This loss is vacuum force required to actually pull the air/fuel into the cylinder. The supercharger equalizes all the cylinders and actually helps to 'push' the piston down to the bottom of the intake stroke, increasing engine efficiency. The problem with most owners of supercharged vehicles is that the "fun factor" goes through the roof, and it's hard to keep your foot off the mat!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hey, roughly what kind of HP and torque numbers do you get out of this setup? 

i am thinking maybe my next vehicle will be a toyota truck of some kind...but worried i would miss the acceleration of my current car...


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> These Magnuson/Eaton superchargers are roots type and are surprisingly quiet. I have done a 8% overdrive to increase boost a bit and modded the airbox to try and make the whine more noticeable but it is still pretty quiet. One cool thing is I get about 3-4 MPG better on the highway with the SC if I stay out of it (*Ok, doesnt save $ because you have to use premium). oh....and there is no comparison, crazy hp/tq, doesnt affect daily driving ability and is fun as all get out. If you are considering...DO IT!!!! Only real drawback is for some reason I need to replace my rear tires every 15K.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is just a sexy picture! I've been considering it for the last year! Wish I would have known they had the supercharger available when I first purchased the truck, then I would've added that on to the total price when signing the papers for it. Only thing holding me back is the $7000 spent going into it . 

A motorized rack under the seat would be awesome. There definitely is a good amount of space under the seat. Where is your sub currently located at now?


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

simplicityinsound said:


> hey, roughly what kind of HP and torque numbers do you get out of this setup?
> 
> i am thinking maybe my next vehicle will be a toyota truck of some kind...but worried i would miss the acceleration of my current car...


Stock 5.7 L V8 puts out 381 hp/401lb-ft of torque, with the supercharger it goes up to 504 hp/ 550lb-ft. With the stock tires and rims I had quite nice acceleration, it'll definitely go when you get on it. I did lose that low end pep though when switching to 33" m/t tires and larger rims.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

simplicityinsound said:


> hey, roughly what kind of HP and torque numbers do you get out of this setup?
> 
> i am thinking maybe my next vehicle will be a toyota truck of some kind...but worried i would miss the acceleration of my current car...


I think you have a Tl, right? Stock for stock, acceleration is pretty close.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

BuickGN said:


> I think you have a Tl, right? Stock for stock, acceleration is pretty close.


I have a stage III legacy GT wagon  on meth it has about 400 hp 425-450tq at the crank, for a 3500lb car not too bad 

back on topic...more pics of the trunk itself would be great...good luck with the build!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

It's funny I have a stage two Legacy, def puts the F in fun. Sorry carry on.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

A good friend of mine rebuilt his wrx doing a full engine build, bigger turbo, injectors, low CR pistons and more fuel KNOWING that after he was going to be able to beat me. On our first race he hit a pigeon doing over 100 and blew out his headlight. While he still cant beat me to 100 his WRX (by far the fastest wrx I have ever raced) is real close and will start pulling after 100 (I do have significant frontal area) over the WRX. Needless to say he was pissed about the light....even more that it still wont beat me between stoplights. BTW: He said during the race he heard a thump and didnt know what it was....and then he smelled the blood and new it was going to be bad. OH that laughs we have!










Also....it is true the OEM HP gain is 504hp 550tq. After headers, tune, exhaust, bigger intercooler and 3 psi more its running SIGNIFICANTLY MORE. 

Good times


~JH


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

With all that external stuff wouldn't it just be easier to replace the radio and not have external displays and controllers. love the truck btw.


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

> Done....(BTW: my wallet says f-you! LOL)
> A second Morel Ultimo 10 and Audison 1.2K has been ordered. THis should put 1500(ish) watts to each 10 at 1 ohm.
> I am feeling better about this choice....the 1.1K will only give 1 sub (2ohm) 800 watts. These Ultimos are 6db less efficient then the SC version. That thought alone was killing me. THe new stuff should be here in a week.


Lol your wallet will go from a quick F-you to an extreme THANK YOU after it heres that beautifully clean power house!!! I did the same thing as you, bought an Lrx 1.1k then before it even got unpacked I decided to upgrade. I didnt return it though, I will prob put it in my wifes car down the road. But anyways, you wont regret it I promise!!!


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## funkalicious (Oct 8, 2007)

As a proud owner of a '93 GT I can state without hesitation that you just haven't come across the right Mustang yet . That is some kick ass equipment going into your build!


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

funkalicious said:


> As a proud owner of a '93 GT I can state without hesitation that you just haven't come across the right Mustang yet . That is some kick ass equipment going into your build!


 I love the old Fox bodies. Tons of fun back in the mid '90s racing those things. I think they came off the lot with gears, timing advance, 1 chamber Flows and a 150 shot lol. I remember burning though a tank of gas in one night of fun, those things were at every intersection.


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## funkalicious (Oct 8, 2007)

A friend of mine took me out in his '93 GT with a Kenne-Bell on it. You've heard the term "the hand of God" that pins you to the seat on acceleration? I literally could not move while he was accelerating because I was pressed so hard and deep into the seat. No wheelspin, just a hard hook and everything became a blur. Had my own within a month . A work in progress but that's my goal.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Damn this makes me miss my M3. Fastest thing I think I've been in was the G-Power M3. Retarded doesn't even cover it. A stock E90 M3 is fast, the G-Power M3 is just plain silly. I can't even describe their M5.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Funny thing is that I own a few of these trucks and NEVER opened this compartment EVER! I didnt even relize it was there until I was looking for a sweet place to mount these F-ing HUGE Dynaudio XOs. 



















As you can see it real tight on each end...other then that it was almost made for these XOs. (*sorry the pics are bad). Its going to be a trick to get the wires run because they are tight but the location is too good to pass up. 



> Damn this makes me miss my M3. Fastest thing I think I've been in was the G-Power M3. Retarded doesn't even cover it. A stock E90 M3 is fast, the G-Power M3 is just plain silly. I can't even describe their M5.


The M3 is one of my all time personal faves. The car is awesome in every respect. I am just minuets from HPF (I also buy my turbo stuff from them). They have a 1200+HP turbo kit for the M3 (only about 50K$), and I have been able to screw around with a few of their 7-800 hp M's. Crazy stuff indeed..... horsepowerfreaks.com Makes me wish I didnt have an X3 and had an M3!

AND ON THAT NOTE>>>>>

I have a new HPF T-Shirt that is UNWORN. The size is XXL (way to big for me). If anyone wants it let me know and pay for shipping. 












~JH


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

funkalicious said:


> A friend of mine took me out in his '93 GT with a Kenne-Bell on it. You've heard the term "the hand of God" that pins you to the seat on acceleration? I literally could not move while he was accelerating because I was pressed so hard and deep into the seat. No wheelspin, just a hard hook and everything became a blur. Had my own within a month . A work in progress but that's my goal.


I always put a huge emphasis on traction even when the car was at stock power. I can't begin to hook on the street anymore. 602rwhp, 620lbs of torque at the wheels and just a hair over 3,000lbs with no lag. On street tire they will spin even at triple digit speeds. I usually run on Hoosier Quick Time Pros even on the street which will usually hook from a 60mph roll. From 120mph it will pull harder than most cars will from a dead stop. From my old data logging it was picking up over 20mph every 1.2 seconds from 100mph and up. It's got the power to weight ratio to go in the 9s, if only it had the safety requirements and suspension.


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## Blazemore (Dec 1, 2006)

m0sdef said:


> Stock 5.7 L V8 puts out 381 hp/401lb-ft of torque, with the supercharger it goes up to 504 hp/ 550lb-ft. With the stock tires and rims I had quite nice acceleration, it'll definitely go when you get on it. I did lose that low end pep though when switching to 33" m/t tires and larger rims.


How does the powertrain hold up with the added hp/tq? Any problems on longevity with high mileage. Your's dealer installed? 

Had the chance to ride in one and there fast. Best part is the look on people faces.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Stock 5.7 L V8 puts out 381 hp/401lb-ft of torque, with the supercharger it goes up to 504 hp/ 550lb-ft. With the stock tires and rims I had quite nice acceleration, it'll definitely go when you get on it. I did lose that low end pep though when switching to 33" m/t tires and larger rims.





> How does the powertrain hold up with the added hp/tq? Any problems on longevity with high mileage. Your's dealer installed?
> 
> Had the chance to ride in one and there fast. Best part is the look on people faces.


Mine is over 550/600tq (*Doug Thorley LT's gain 35+HP alone with the SC).....my 2nd to 3rd shift is harder then OEM under hard acceleration, toyota says it because of the reflash on the comp and wont do anything about it. (*not noticeable under normal driving). No other problems, have 55K. Note that the drive, tranny and rear end are designed for towing 10K unlike most cars on the road where they were never designed to pull anything. Makes trucks a good choice for rodding.

-Self installed.....

~JH


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

My car is in the same boat, Subaru said since my car was flashed they won't touch certain things under warranty.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

This is a SC tundra time slip (*NOT MINE) [Tundra in Right lane]. I have found the hardest part of running this truck is the fact that with its long wheelbase and low weight in the rear it is really hard to launch the truck without lighting up the back. Its all about technique easing into the throttle off the line because any power breaking other then taking slack out, will cause the tires to start skipping. I am considering doing a 4 link in the future to help with getting off the line. Again this is my work truck and should be doing ANY of this sh1t!!!!

~JH




> My car is in the same boat, Subaru said since my car was flashed they won't touch certain things under warranty.


Reflash was FROM Toyota and SC does not affect warranty. However they may raise hell about the more boost, headers ect.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Mine is over 550/600tq (*Doug Thorley LT's gain 35+HP alone with the SC).....my 2nd to 3rd shift is harder then OEM under hard acceleration, toyota says it because of the reflash on the comp and wont do anything about it. (*not noticeable under normal driving). No other problems, have 55K. Note that the drive, tranny and rear end are designed for towing 10K unlike most cars on the road where they were never designed to pull anything. Makes trucks a good choice for rodding.
> 
> -Self installed.....
> 
> ~JH


Be thankful for that harder than stock shift. It will greatly reduce clutch pack wear especially with the extra power you have.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> This is a SC tundra time slip (*NOT MINE) [Tundra in Right lane]. I have found the hardest part of running this truck is the fact that with its long wheelbase and low weight in the rear it is really hard to launch the truck without lighting up the back. Its all about technique easing into the throttle off the line because any power breaking other then taking slack out, will cause the tires to start skipping. I am considering doing a 4 link in the future to help with getting off the line. Again this is my work truck and should be doing ANY of this sh1t!!!!
> 
> ~JH
> 
> ...


A 12 second work truck. I remember in the mid '90s when I first got my car. I did a couple light mods and was going [email protected] Back then I never lost a random redlight encounter. 12s put you at the top of anything that you could buy from a dealer no matter what the cost. I stepped my game up over the years but it's hard to believe there are now work trucks that would have given me a run. I guess that's progress.


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## ChiTownSQ (Apr 7, 2008)

These are bad ass trucks! I had a regular cab with a corsa exhaust and it would do stock high 5 second 0-60's before i put the big tires and lift on it!


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

A few random pics......


~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> In the shop with the amp to figure out how and where the amps are going go. This thing is surprisingly heavy (and big) for 400 watts! Because these amps are new and never played I was considering just hanging on to them....but why the hell not just use them!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have on 07DC. Many of us are doing the "back seat mod" by taking the back seats out and cutting a little off of the mounting hooks that attach to the back wall. This allows the back rest to fall forward when you lift up on the handles on the bottom of the seat. Gives you access to a ton of room back there for mounting amps. I built an amp rack out of 1/2" MDF, carpeted it and mounted it to the back wall.



















and a couple other random shots, incase you need ideas.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

After some measurements its looks like I am going to mount my amps on the back wall as well. I had some good advice and was told that if I make some 1.5" seat risers in the back I would be able to get both of the Ultimos under the rear seat (where I originally thought of putting the amps). 

I assume the other half of your component set is in the OEM location in the door? 
I was wondering how it sounded having the tweeter so high and far from the mid? 
It sure would make the install easier to use this location.....I am just wondering if you like where they are at or would you do something different?

~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I assume the other half of your component set is in the OEM location in the door?
> I was wondering how it sounded having the tweeter so high and far from the mid?
> It sure would make the install easier to use this location.....I am just wondering if you like where they are at or would you do something different?
> 
> ~JH


Yes, the Rainbow mids are in the OEM door location. I built a 3/4" MDF base plate, then cut out a 1/2" mounting ring for them. No problems with the door card fitting back at all. And as you can see in the first picture, the massive Rainbow crossovers are on the back wall next to the amps.

I think the tweeters sound great where they are. I have a Limited with the JBL, so I had the already angled tweeters. If you dont have the Limited sails, you can buy a set from the dealer for about $60. I just used a hole saw to cut out the screen and make room for the CAL 25 tweeter, and it slid right in. I dont care for the sound of tweeters bouncing off of glass, so I'm pretty happy with their locations.

I had to raise up my back seat a little to make room for the box, but not too much. I'm running a JL13TW5 under the seat, so the box isnt too big. I raised up mine about 1/2". Raising the seat mounts 1.5" is most likely going to give you trouble with the mounting holes on the back wall not lining up. Unless you are just putting some type of block under just the seat part, and not the whole assembly.

There is plenty of breathing room for the amps with the seats up as well. This is an older picture with the seats up when I had some Alpine amps back there.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Wow, nice pictures, Johnny. So how fast is the green one and what's powering it? Do you drive your own vehicles?


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Jet:
THanks for the info, very helpful to see it done on the same ya know. 
I thought the Rainbow was an 8" in the 'JBL' box under the rear. I can see now that its in the door. 

BGN:

Design, engineer, build and drive. I am also a consultant for about 6 LSR projects over the country. 

Currently we use Hayabusa motors (+650hp) but are highly considering a 2JZGTE 3.0 Toyota to run in higher displacement classes....or in a different vehicle. 

We are targeting in the 400 mph mark after a few years of development....and by 'targeting' I mean being optimistic. Currently the record we are looking at is about 375 mph....so 400 is possible but is going to take a real serious effort. 










Turbo 1300cc and 1507cc NOS motors. 

~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Jet:
> THanks for the info, very helpful to see it done on the same ya know.
> I thought the Rainbow was an 8" in the 'JBL' box under the rear. I can see now that its in the door.



Sure, no worries. It looks like you're more than handy, but if anything with the Tundra stumps you... let me know. I've had my interior stripped down to bare metal quite a few times, and I have a ton more pics as well.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

OEM sail, Dyna and OEM 'JBL'. 










Thanks to Mr. Hole Saw and his friend drill press the OEM plastic now fits the larger tweeter. 










This lip overhang is hardly noticeable once in the vehicle....but this is going to drive me nuts! I am going to wait to fill out the sides until I hear the front stage. I may want to angle the tweeter in more so this is just going to have to sit for a few.....IF it does not completely drive me insane! 










Installed in truck....


~JH


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

lookin good so far. Im just glad you went with the 1.2K haha cant stress enough how much I love that thing!!!


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Im just glad you went with the 1.2K haha cant stress enough how much I love that thing!!!


I was already on the edge and after you mentioned the 1.2K and I was like 'damn it hes right, I'm going to do it!'. It along with the other Morel 10 was supposed to be in last week but Audison and Morel distributor take their time (*according to the shop). Truth is it will sit on a shelf for a few weeks before I am even close to considering installing it.....and lets face it, it is a SIGNIFICANT jump in $$$ so I am more then happy its taking a while to come in! 

How bad is it on current draw???? I just installed a very kick ass Exide spiral cell battery today (I own 4-5 Optima batteries that are total POS, I will never buy one again!) IMO the Exide jell is 10X the battery Optima is at the same cost. Just wondering if I am going to need a bigger alternator as well. 


~JH


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## cobb2819 (Jan 13, 2011)

Weren't the Bit10D and LRx 1.1k made in china??


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Isn't the Bit10 made in china??













Again I can only go with what the box says and the integrity of the manufacture. Its says 'made in' so I am going with that and only hope it true. 

~JH


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I was already on the edge and after you mentioned the 1.2K and I was like 'damn it hes right, I'm going to do it!'. It along with the other Morel 10 was supposed to be in last week but Audison and Morel distributor take their time (*according to the shop). Truth is it will sit on a shelf for a few weeks before I am even close to considering installing it.....and lets face it, it is a SIGNIFICANT jump in $$$ so I am more then happy its taking a while to come in!
> 
> How bad is it on current draw???? I just installed a very kick ass Exide spiral cell battery today (I own 4-5 Optima batteries that are total POS, I will never buy one again!) IMO the Exide jell is 10X the battery Optima is at the same cost. Just wondering if I am going to need a bigger alternator as well.
> 
> ...


Well let's just say I took no chances haha. I have 3 amps in my install; Audison LRx 2.4 LRx 2.9 and LRx 1.2k. I upgraded the full eletrical system; Kinetic 1800, Kinetic 600, high output alternator, and full 1/0 awg big three upgrade. That 1.2k is a 3200 watt amp and if you wanna get technical then you'll never achieve its true potential without an upgraded alt. Sounds like you have a good start with the battery (agree fully that Optimas are junk, Kinetics have always been wonderful for me) but I wouldn't skimp in the one area that to me is one of the most important. You have all that great gear, let it work how it knows how and get a better alt. Hell what's $500-$600 more at this point?! Haha...I'd give wrangler a call, love there alts! Unfortunately they didn't make one for my vehicle but hopefully they do you. If not and you need more brand suggestions lemme know


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

I tried driving for a day and the extended lip overhang on the tweeter pissed me off all day so I decided I would do something about it. 

First I used my heavy sander to carefully re-angle the tweeter. The angle was very sparse OEM so I now have it more to center of vehicle.









After prepping the ABS on the sail with prep solution I applied a crown of reinforced filler and sanded. 










Cut and pre laid the carbon fiber sheet. The piece is now ready for rosin.....but the wife just got home and she is none too crazy about me stinking up the house more then I already do. 











~JH


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## suzi427 (Oct 6, 2011)

sweet should look great!!


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

First coat of rosin. Using Ultra-Glo polymer with UV stabilizer (*prevents yellowing from sunlight). I am degassing (removing bubbles) in this pic. If you look close you can still see a few but will make quick work of these. Will likely do another coat after full cure. 











When I first started this build I was going to attempt to do a non invasive approach but I think that idea is quickly going out the window. 

~JH


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

coming along.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

One of the biggest complaints Tundra owners have with the truck is the silver plastic in the interior. I need a place to put the Audison Bit10d controller and a place for my Sirius receiver. The pocket behind the shifter is useless so I am covering the entire thing in carbon fiber and building an angled panel to flush the Audison and Sirius box. BTW....Hate the shifter...will be building a billet unit soon. 










Pic of the OEM plastic about to come off.....






















Carbon fiber on the console. Hard to photo because I dont put it down for about 45 mins.. I keep rotating the section so the rosin levels and does not have sags and allows for degassing. 










Degassing the second (and final) coat. After a 24hr final cure these will be ready to be edged and installed. 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Left side....










Right side 

Note: These were just roughed in and need to have some details cleaned up. This pic was taken just to test fit and is not a final. 










Here is the goofy 'JBL' OEM subwoofer box.




























After cutting a piece of 1/4" plate I am sizing up the Bit10 display and using a machinist square to keep it lined up.










The hole is roughed in (*thank you Mr. Plasma cutter). Had a few mins with a bastard but is going to take a few more before the display fits. 

~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

The tweeter sail panels came out great. What year/model is this? I have a tow/haul button and two blanks in front of my shifter. I havent seen one with that big pocket in front of the shifter yet.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks JJ...

Its an 07 DC 2wd with the 5.7 and big rear end.....It was impossible to find this truck!!!! I had to look for months before I found one. Nearly all the 5.7 are 4X4. 



















I still need to radii the edges, do a little forming and polish the bezel. I am going to hold off on the polishing because I have a number of pieces to do and want to do them all together. I also need to finish trimming the edges on the CF.

The dash is next! 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Dash naked....









Carbon fiber pre-fit










First rosin application.

ALSO....
Had a nice conversation with Ray Kimber Kimber Kable and learned that all the cables (*with the exception of molded end HDMI) are made in Ogden Ut.. Will be using Kimber exclusively in this build. Ray is a super cool guy, it turns out we know some of the same people. Crazy small world.....


~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

This dash isnt done, there was so much surface area it was hard to brush on the rosin level so I have a few areas that need some more build. I wanted to cut out the switch and gauges to make sure they still fit OK. If I was going to do another dash I would use a chemical safe roller. It was also a pain because I am using cheap 'chip' brushes and they loose a few bristles that need to be picked out or they will be there forever! 

There are a few more CF pieces I am going to do but am now going to concentrate on doing more stereo install after doing some minor fixes/trimming on these panels.....

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Test fitting the panels. Still need some trimming on but getting closer. 



















~JH


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## silverdiesel2574 (Feb 22, 2008)

Can i send you my dash , for a little treatment and TLC like that, Ive got a tundra also.
2010 crewcab 4x4 black, love the truck. lol


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## dennisthemenace46290 (Oct 30, 2011)

Looks great!!!


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## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

good onya for attemptng a no china install and to be honest it is entirely possible to do this using parts from italy germany denmark and a couple of other euro manufactuers 

not sure how you would go with HU tho as i think possibly to of rage pioneer is made in 

japan and also maybe eclipse at the fujitsu plant but im not entirely shure but amps and 

speakers and cables and subs are all easy enough to get sun without using chinese 

sourced parts if your happy enuf to part with your hard earned

Ren 
xMplar


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## Kenreau (Feb 10, 2011)

Awesome work, JH. Very impressive all around.

I'm also in Portland and I know I've seen your trailor w/ the logo on the highway (PIR Delta Park?) around town. I have a Toyota Sequoia with a similar (oem) interior. I went with a basic upgrade of Hertz HSK 165s in the door and a pillar with an Audison amp. Had similar issues with aiming the tweets to work best. I would love to listen to your rig when you get it to a finish line (pun).

Kenreau


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Awesome work, JH. Very impressive all around.
> 
> I'm also in Portland and I know I've seen your trailor w/ the logo on the highway (PIR Delta Park?) around town. I have a Toyota Sequoia with a similar (oem) interior. I went with a basic upgrade of Hertz HSK 165s in the door and a pillar with an Audison amp. Had similar issues with aiming the tweets to work best. I would love to listen to your rig when you get it to a finish line (pun).
> 
> Kenreau


Let me know when I get closer to the end!

Ren:
The HU is going to be the last thing in. I was going to do a PC based but am considering options now. Not sure where McIntosh is made...but I know a few Jap options or something OS (Denon?). Clearly I have some soul searching to do. 

~JH

Firstly I own 2 table saws, a heavy (Jet) and portable. I often use what I call a 'ghetto table saw' and find that there are times it works as good or better then a table. I am sure other people may know this trick but as its a DIY forum non pros may of never seen this.
I decided to show how you can make laser straight cuts (*including angles) using a cheap, other then table saw option. Its true there are a few things that are a disadvantage vs a table this method works great and wont take up room in your shop. 

First you need a Skilsaw. You can get away with a sidewinder (direct drive) but I really recommend a worm drive saw with a small kerf finishing blade as shown. 

Second (you can use angle iron) I prefer to use heavy gauge electrical strut. You can use other things including another piece of wood as long as its ridged and you know its straight. 

2 'c' jaw vice grips

You need to measure from the side of the saw to the center of the blade and add that to the dimension your cutting. 










Mine is exactly 1.5 on the skinny and 3.5 on the fat.










Clamp the strut on the wood using the vice grips adding 1.5 or 3.5 (or whatever your saw is) depending on the direction of cut.










Now your strut become the rip fence and makes perfect cuts. 










Very early stages of the box. I only have about 2 hours in it so far, have some really cool stuff planned once the basic pieces and bracing are done and everything fits. 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Circles! 

I am going to free hand these, they are for driver mounting only and will use my circle cutter on the cap. 











Test fitting the driver.










View from the backside....










View from the top through the .75 acrylic. I damn sure wanted people to know these werent the p*$%y 'SC' Ultimos. (*JK, the SCs are great woofers). 











Temp install of driver for clearance (*everything fits). The entire inside of the box will be covered in carbon fiber, have lights and maybe a fog machine. Still have to do ports. 

Also motorizing the back seat to lift to show the sub box top.....

~JH


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## Kenreau (Feb 10, 2011)

_Quote:
Awesome work, JH. Very impressive all around.

I'm also in Portland and I know I've seen your trailor w/ the logo on the highway (PIR Delta Park?) around town. I have a Toyota Sequoia with a similar (oem) interior. I went with a basic upgrade of Hertz HSK 165s in the door and a pillar with an Audison amp. Had similar issues with aiming the tweets to work best. I would love to listen to your rig when you get it to a finish line (pun).

Kenreau 

Let me know when I get closer to the end!

Ren:
The HU is going to be the last thing in. I was going to do a PC based but am considering options now. Not sure where McIntosh is made...but I know a few Jap options or something OS (Denon?). Clearly I have some soul searching to do. 

~JH_


I'm 99% sure McIntosh is still made in the great ol' USA. I don't think they make HUs any longer though, just amps. I suspect your best route there is to find one pulled out of a Subaru wreck (they were an upgrade option for a few years), classifieds here, clist or ebay. I've seen a couple of threads where people modify them (may be for an aux. apple / mp3 input?). I think they may be full (double?) din size which may work fine with the Toyota dash. Probably really going revolve around what source(s) you intend to use.

Best regards,
Kenreau


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## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

how about a head unit from nakamichi or even eclopse which is fuhitsu ten both of them are japenese there is also the pioneer p99rs and the clarion hxd2 which are japeneze 

and i beleive the is a butler or a brax or simalar type alder skool look head unit in a double din size using ammeters instead of full digital i think it maybe buttler and its kind of a hybrid tube deal but dont quote me you will have sim small parst here and there from china but dont dweat it do as much as you can with original euro bransd like grond zeros gladen audio moscini audio development impact car aduio from audio design and sinfoni and celesra and auddisoon also scan speaker snd seas lotus and peerless

as far as other amps goe here is the true tech and the macintosh (maybe) also the genisis and a number of others the only real deleima is head unit as the raw materiesl 80% of them come frfom cchina and stuff anyway but its not where it comes from its hows its put together that make diference but good u for having a go mate best of luck and keep up the good work

ren
xMplar


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Kenreau & Ren, Duly noted and thanks for the info. Looking into all these options. 

~JH 



After some test fitting and design changes I have decided on a final layout. (I built 2 race car chassis and recycled them before finishing one I liked!!) The first box I built was intended on being a 'test and fit'. I have built perfect boxes and then find they dont look right...or interfered with seats-legroom or other problem I couldnt measure when looking at a naked vehicle. 

Before peeps start squalling about using acrylic as a woofer mount acrylic is BETTER then lexan (Polycarb) for speaker boxes. It is true that .5 lexan is stronger then .75 acrylic what people dont realize is that it .75 lexan, while stronger flexes and acrylic is much more ridged (*and WAAAY more ridged then MDF). 

I have mounted much more capable woofers (*in output terms) in acrylic and have had zero issues. The KEY is to use heavy gauge T-nuts or fab and thread a 'back' ring to dissipate the screw contact loads over a larger area. Stress cracks will only form around screw mount holes and only if you mount the screws directly to the acrylic or polycarb. You should also use a method to put a slight radii on all hole edges. 

also....you should be also aware of cantilever stress from mounting huge magnet woofers to acrylic/lexan or MDF. The weight hanging off a panel coupled with shock loads from hitting bumps can break a box front if not properly braced. This goes for plastic or woods. 

Other then that plastic woofer mounts and entire boxes work tits if you have the balls to do one. 











~JH


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## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

looks preety good man you got everything including the kitchen sink lolz

and i reckon using acrylic is fine as long as you know about structuralk ridgity and how far to space the screws without comprimising the structuaral integrity of the peice its 

like the guys who use 18mm mdf and then use the right screws but space them at like 
20mm apart they think more scres makes it stringer but it actually weakens the box hell 

it even says on the screw packets to space them at 100mm apart for optimum rigidity i think this will look great man will you be doing any frosting on the top with sum leds inside or sumthing or a logos of sum kind

keep up the pics and we need moar of them will it be a duel chamber sealed or single chamber sealed or ported box

Ren
xMplar


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

that is a lot of effort going into a 'work' truck. i would love to put a supercharger on my tundra but the price is a pretty good deterrent.


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## xMplar (Feb 18, 2009)

nah its not too much work you have to be in comfort to and from work to help you wind down after the day man 

Ren
xMplar


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

andoneward:

I purchased my SC from a freight salvage company. The SC was new but had a dent in the valley where a o-ring fit (*this o-ring sealed the SC to the block). I was able to fix it for less then 100$. Was able to buy the SC unit for 1000$ (+100 to get fixed) and the fit kit for 2100$ I did my own install so my SC cost 3200$. 

Clearly I got lucky, typically they are going to set you back a bunch of coin. It is however worth every penny. 

Ren....

You are correct and I spend a substantial part of my work day in my truck.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> ~JH


For a second there, it looked like you were building an enclosure out of granite


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## andoneward (Aug 19, 2009)

Wow, it sounds like you were prepared for success once you saw the opportunity. If i had the extra $7k that I could just blow then I would go through the dealership since I do not possess the technical know how and would want to maintain my warranty. Plus, I have not been in the scenario where I thought to myself "it sure would be nice to have that extra 100hp and 150 ft/lbs right now because 381 and 401 are not enough."
Hopefully it was a 'business expense' ;-)


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

Solid install so far. I have a Tundra DC as well, but I installed my amps under the rear/driver seats.

I'm kinda directionally-challenged so pardon the stupid question but.... your Ultimo's are going to be firing forward, correct?


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

This is the new box. Woofers will be firing into the bottom of the seat, there is about 1.5" between the top of the surround and the seat (even when compressed). I have something neat planned for grills. 










Still have some sanding to do on the radii between the brace wall. I wanted a more organic look as apposed to just using a round over. I doubt anyone will see the compound radii but I will know!

~JH


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

^^^

What.... really??!?

I have a 2011 DC, and I definitely couldn't stuff a subwoofer with a 5.8" mounting depth under my seat. Am I missing something?


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Center brace and lip for the glass. 










Box being fit....




> What.... really??!?
> 
> I have a 2011 DC, and I definitely couldn't stuff a subwoofer with a 5.8" mounting depth under my seat. Am I missing something?












Ray, I had to think outside the box a bit (no pun intended). I was considering cutting out the floor pan under the seat and lowering it 2 inches (pain because the fuel cell was under there). I also was considering making lift blocks for the seat mount raising the entire seat 1.5". After f-ing around with a tape I discovered that the front of the rear seat is 2" lower then the front of the front seat. Because the base of the rear seat folds up I found that with a mere .75" spacer at the rest pad of the seat lifted the front of the seat to equal the front. This made the seat more comfortable but also does not effect headroom. I was really close to putting the woofer faces forward but that raised the nose of the seat just enough to be noticeable. 










This is the difference between the seat with the sub box VS the seat my kids seat is in. I am going to level them both out but its a pretty good representation now the dead flat OEM seat looks compared to the one that is raised in the front. 

Just for ****s and giggles put a piece of .75 mdf or other spacer under the pad rests on your rear seat sit in it and see if it doesnt feel better to you (*then post back and tell me that I am a f-ing genius LOL). 

ALSO.....my new amp and sub should be here tomorrow!!!!! YEAH!!!! 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Box is almost ready for epoxy coating and mirrors after Jr does a final inspections. 

Note the provision on the side. This will allow the box to be tuned to the resonance of the cab. I will be able to go from .90cf per sub to 1.20+cf per sub by adding a second box chamber under the passenger seat. 

I will also be able to go from sealed to ported in a few seconds. I have done boxes like this where the second chamber was able to be opened or closed by use of an actuator but typically found that once the box was tuned for the vehicle it never got used.....although it was sort cool to know you could. 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Mirrors in test fit....











Bad pic of the back reflection....











Coating all visible interior surfaces and joints with epoxy. There is some weird lighting reflections going on in this pic. The epoxy will be a substrate for paint. MDF soaks paint like a wick so you need to seal it before it will accept paint. 

~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

After 5 weeks the second sub arrived!!!!!! 
The Audison 1.2K should be here Wednesday (fingers crossed!). 


Its likely better the stuff took a while to come in, I have been known to hurry things up just to get it going and 'telling' myself I will fix it later. Often times later is WAAAAAY later!


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Going to do a process called machine turning on the bezel for the bit ten. I was going to polish this but I have done a bunch of turning on my race vehicles I thought I would carry it over to the truck. 
The best way to do this is use a programmable CNC mill but a drill press can work....even better if your drill press has a milling vice. I have several drill presses but didnt get 3 phase wired in my shop so I have to use a 110v press that doesnt have a milling vice....oh well, almost prefer the look of hand done turning vs the more sterile look of computer controlled perfection. 










I am using RoLok by 3M and .75" pads. Old schoolers use wire brush and they work fine also. 










Use a square to make a series of lines equal or just slightly larger then the diameter of the pad. 










I am out of practice and drifted a little on my first row. BFD.....
The idea is that after you make your first 'swirl' The pad overlaps so the edge of the pad is at the center of the previous swirl.....and repeat.....











Finished turning....
I still need to dress the edges to tighten up the radii and start prep for install (making bracket to hold the Audison display and crap). 

~JH


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Great idea on the turning. Much cooler than just polishing the panel


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks Mr. Sinister. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Doing a grill for the subs. Going to machine turn the tops of the end caps and finish polishing the copper. 


























Marked and drilled.....











Basic layout. Note the holes remaining. These will be for standoff provisions to float the grill over the subs. 











Close up of the integration between end caps and bars. 


~JH


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

If finally arrived!!!!! 
Much bigger/heavier then I thought....clearly I am going to need to feed this amp with these 4 transformers. I havent spec'ed the amp yet but its screaming +170 amp draw. 


With this amp I can now start doing layout for the amp rack. This also means I need to now fab the bracket to allow the rear seat to fold forward. 

Still seems a long way off before I will be able to light these amps up! 

~JH


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## Complacent_One (Jul 2, 2009)

After seeing those bars for the grill, makes me want to jump in the Bronco and jam some "JailBreak", Thin Lizzy!!!


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Thanks Mr. Sinister.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Doing a grill for the subs. Going to machine turn the tops of the end caps and finish polishing the copper.
> ...


That's great machine work. Are you going to clear-coat the copper pipes? It'll prevent corrosion and keep 'em shiny... unless that's copper-anodized aluminum? Pretty sweet either way


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## rytekproject (Feb 25, 2011)

I wish a had a fraction of this skill for my tundra. Nice work!


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> This also means I need to now fab the bracket to allow the rear seat to fold forward.
> 
> 
> 
> ~JH


I saw youre on TS. Have you seen the "backseat mod" yet? We trim the brackets/hooks to allow the upper part of the rear seats to fold forward.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Have you seen the "backseat mod" yet? We trim the brackets/hooks to allow the upper part of the rear seats to fold forward


I have not JJ but I will search TS. I am very interested in this....my solution is to build custom pivot at the front of the seat bracket allowing the main mounting bracket to tilt forward. If I go this route I will run full FEA calcs to insure its strong enough to contain a passenger in a head on without compromising the mount. 

I am very interested in another method!




> I wish a had a fraction of this skill for my tundra. Nice work!


Thanks for the comment. Truth is most of the 'skill' and skills used in doing a 'real' install are very much the same things used in building everything from aircraft, guitars, custom cars, bikes, boats and race vehicles! 
I dont mean to imply that high end installers are wasting their talents but I am saying that there are fields that are potentially more lucrative considering the vast array of skills needed to do this stuff, so kudos to anyone that does this for a living. 

I personally dont think there is anything I have done with this install that the average joe couldnt do with some basic tool and a willingness to make and learn from mistakes (*OK, this is going to change...cause I am about to get freaky with some aluminum welding and it requires some dedication and really expensive equipment). 
I am also going to show some different methods for skinning the same cat when it comes to the doors as apposed to the cookie cutter 'stretch cloth over a form, glue it up' horse that has been beat to f-ing death in CA installs of pillars, boxes, doors and kicks. Not because it better....but different and gives a new dimension in compound/outside curves that are not possible with the traditional method. 

~JH


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## Smash (Oct 4, 2011)

Serious work and though being put into this. Looks great so far. Couple comments questions.

- Can't say I'm a fan of machine turning but without a CNC you've got some serious patience and time to burn. It's not so bad on a mill, but it looks like you did it on a drill press with a machining vice. Serious kudos for how it turned out.

-Awesome carbon fiber lay up. I've done some carbon/kevlar stuff in the past and it's a bit tricky. I'm guessing you've done this before.

-For the copper bars, what are you using to keep them from rattling in the end caps. Is that an interference fit?

I'll be starting my Tundra install in January or February. Keep the ideas coming so I can incorporate them into mine.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Cutting the grill mount/ screw cover to size 










Squared up, oxidation removed, clamped and ready for the TIG. 










TIG= second from left. 










Welded seam, both sides










All sided ground flat. Now all bars are 1 piece of aluminum with no seams. I still need to fill a few small areas but its almost ready for polishing. 

~JH



> For the copper bars, what are you using to keep them from rattling in the end caps. Is that an interference fit?


The bars/holes are so tight they had to be pressed. I have considered the possibility they may 'squeak' with vibrations. If this becomes a problem I will build an acrylic center support (between the subs) and left the ends of the end caps open if I need to fill with a polymer.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Been a little while sense I updated this, been busy building another chassis and that has priority. Broke my tubing bender so it gives me some free time. 

Building some 1.5" rear seat risers. I ran a basic FEA calc to assure it was not going to compromise safety of the rear seat passengers. It was also important for me to have this mod reversible with minimal effort. 










Cut 3-17" 1.5"X.120 square. 
Cut 3-1.5X1.5"X.120 flat










Tacked and welded. 
Hard to do because was using .035 solid wire and should be using .023 or even .030. Didnt feel like swapping rolls. (*lazy) 










Using a 120g flap on a 4.5 I ground the beads flush and radii the edges. 










Set the amps on the table for rack layout. Funny seeing 3000+ watts next to 600 between the M50's. 

Wife said I had to stop and rap damn gifts. More tomorrow.....

~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I have not JJ but I will search TS. I am very interested in this....my solution is to build custom pivot at the front of the seat bracket allowing the main mounting bracket to tilt forward. If I go this route I will run full FEA calcs to insure its strong enough to contain a passenger in a head on without compromising the mount.
> 
> I am very interested in another method!
> 
> ...



Heres mine with the back seat mod.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Jet, what are those metal tabs under the window for? Looks like they are held there by self drilling 3/8 screws? 

I am also going to do something with the metal under the window and above the rack, its ugly as hell. I like what you did with it.....looks tons better. I am also going to likely put cloth on the back of the rear seats as well. I dont like they unfinished look to them. Toyota never intended these to be seen.....seems odd as the back seat mod is so easy and potentially useful. 











Back of cab. 
Drove around with the rear seat and rubber curtain removed as shown and the interior was so loud it was like driving with a window open! 











Install of 1/8" ribbed rubber sheet. (awesome sound dampening). 










1/2" cert. sanded cabinet grade plywood (*note its a little rained on!). I opted for plywood because it is considerably lighter and has a higher retention value. Going to cover this in carbon fiber (not the fake vinyl ****). The wife is home for a week and there is no mixing of epoxies when she is home. 










Basic layout of the amps on the rack......


~JH


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Jet, what are those metal tabs under the window for? Looks like they are held there by self drilling 3/8 screws?
> 
> I am also going to do something with the metal under the window and above the rack, its ugly as hell. I like what you did with it.....looks tons better. I am also going to likely put cloth on the back of the rear seats as well. I dont like they unfinished look to them. Toyota never intended these to be seen.....seems odd as the back seat mod is so easy and potentially useful.
> 
> ...


First off, my apologies for butting in with pictures of my build on your thread. 

Those tabs are metal roofing straps I got at Home Depot. Since we dont have kids, and no plans for kids, I used the child safety strap bolts to mount the amp rack straps. First I measured the length, and bent three of them in the vice.



















Then, after some second measurements, I painted them black and mounted them to my amp board, which is 1/2" MDF and wrapped in blackish/charcoal speaker box carpet.










Then into the truck and mounted using the 14mm child safety bolts.










That upper part below the window and above the amp rack looked terrible in silver, so I put the same carpet up there, trimmed off the excess, cut slits for the seat hooks, and there you have it. 



















And here's the finished product. This is from when I had my old Alpine amps and Boston Pro 60's in last year, but its the best pic I have of how it came out with the back seats out of the truck. The JL amps and Rainbow crossovers are back there now, but the layout is still pretty much the same. 



















You are correct about the back of the seat needing a cover. Its the one thing that always bugs me when I'm showing someone the amp rack. I need to do that as well this winter. Let me know what ideas you come up with for that and I'll try and copy yours. 

Mark


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Its been a little while and have been swamped trying to get another chassis build but found some time to do some stuff to the truck.

Got the carbon fiber amp rack built and getto mounted the sub amp. I am hooking it up using a line level adapter only to get some basic tuning done and to make sure placement is OK and the subs are sounding OK before hard mounting and getting crazy with the wiring. 

~JH


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Install of 1/8" ribbed rubber sheet. (awesome sound dampening).


Neat. What is it?


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## haystak (Jan 31, 2012)

simplicityinsound said:


> I think perhaps most of your gear have at least some internal components sourced from china heheheh
> 
> and dont forget the wiring...


lol, i appreciate that box


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Neat. What is it?


I have always had good results with this and similar products to reduce panel vibration and reduction of road noise. I dont know if the 'ribs' help with sound control but if they are good enough for Trojan......

Wide Rib Corrugated Rubber Mats & Runners

~JH


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I have always had good results with this and similar products to reduce panel vibration and reduction of road noise. I dont know if the 'ribs' help with sound control but if they are good enough for Trojan......
> 
> Wide Rib Corrugated Rubber Mats & Runners
> 
> ~JH


It could be a viable alternative to MLV, but it's pretty pricy per square foot unless you've gotten it for a cut rate.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Awesome work!


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## Jumbo Jet (May 31, 2008)

I always see guys selling that vinyl floor mat at car shows and swap meets. They sell them as garage floor step pads to put in front of a tool box or work bench. I've seen it as low as $30 for a 5x10 piece, but was always afraid to bite the bullet and try it. Wonder if it works as well as MLV?


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## Lymen (Aug 9, 2011)

This is a legit build, great work JH!

Lymen


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## jimlg28 (Apr 26, 2010)

I'm interested in how the seat risers came out. I'm getting ready to build my box for two dayton 12's and if that works it will make my life easier. How does it work where it attaches to the rear wall?

James


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