# TomV 1989 Mustang GT Stereo Build Plan



## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

I'm starting to gather equipment for my Mustang sound system, in which I plan to install this summer.










I used to have a system in my old 86 Thunderbird and have some parts left over that I plan to reuse:

Precision Power AM2150, AM2050 and ProMOS50 amplifiers
MB Quart Musicomp QM 300.72 crossovers
MB Quart QM 110 coaxial speakers
And I've just acquired some new speakers, and saved a bunch during the holiday sales:

Morel Hybrid MW6
Morel Tempo Ultra 572 Integra
Here is a picture of all the components (except the AM20250 which is currently in the car, along with a Kenwood DNX9990HD DVD Navigation head unit). 










I've purchased new electrolytic capacitors for all three amps and will solder them in soon.

For the FRONT is to use the PPI AM2150 (2x150W RMS) for the front 3-way components, in which consists of the 4" MBQuart coaxials in the dash, Morel 6-1/2" mid bass in the doors and MBQuart crossovers. I'm hope to fit the dash speakers under the factory grills and will likely install the door speakers on angled spacers on top the door panel.

For REAR fill, I plan to use the PPI AM2050 (2x50W RMS) and the Morel 572's in the stock rear locations.

And for a SUBWOOFER (in which I'll need help with selecting) I plan to use the PPI ProMOS50 which is (1x400W RMS) into 2 ohms. I once used it to power two JL Audio 12W4 subs, which I could reuse but not sure if I can construct a box that fits well in the hatch for these. Two 10" might be a better option.


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## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

Those are beautiful amps. I look forward to seeing the install.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

Thanks! I have a few ideas for mounting them... but will probably need help deciding when the time comes.

Here is a picture of the Kenwood DNX9990HD head unit, with custom start logo. It's a hand-me-down from my old Ford Fusion and has some basic time alignment settings that I'm hoping will work for me... but again only time will tell.


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## Bchester6 (Jan 15, 2020)

Very exciting! What subs are you considering right now?


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

For subs, I could re-foam my 12W4's (already have the foam kit) and build a new lower profile box with an angled front. I've read rear facing subs that angle up slightly sound best in the Mustang hatch.

I've also been considering two Morel Primo 10" subs or two JL Audio subs were the max power handling is around 300W RMS each. I'm thinking two higher efficiency subs would work better with my 400W RMS amp, than say a massive single 12" sub with a 1000W rating.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

On a side note, I still have my original MB Quart 328 CX separates. Unfortunately one of the 6.5" drivers is blown, that's why I picked up the Morel 6.5" replacements.










I really considered running these MB Quart 4" mid and 3/4" tweeters again (like in my TBird), but the mounting options for those large tweeters sucks in the Mustang. I'd have to fabricate custom pods on the side mirror covers and run more wires into the doors.

Thus I found that set of NOS MB Quart 4" coaxials pictured in the first thread to ease the installation. They are similar midranges, except 4 ohm rather than 6 ohm and use poly cone. The tweeters are essentially the same titanium dome, but with a neo magnet. I understand the tweeters won't be on axis, but the dash is angled on both sides and I'm not sure how much reflection into the windshield there will be or how the imaging will be.










I won't sell the old kit until I'm satisficed with the coaxials, so they remain an option.


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

I love everything about this project! It would be super cool if there were a way you could do an A/B switch with processing between old school gear and a modern DSP just to see how close (or far) away the two would sound using the same equipment.


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## Bchester6 (Jan 15, 2020)

TomV said:


> For subs, I could re-foam my 12W4's (already have the foam kit) and build a new lower profile box with an angled front. I've read rear facing subs that angle up slightly sound best in the Mustang hatch.
> 
> I've also been considering two Morel Primo 10" subs or two JL Audio subs were the max power handling is around 300W RMS each. I'm thinking two higher efficiency subs would work better with my 400W RMS amp, than say a massive single 12" sub with a 1000W rating.


W4's are the only JL subs I like from them. That would be my vote for sure.


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## Bchester6 (Jan 15, 2020)

Or a couple of old school Boston Pro's would be pretty badass.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Ive built a system in an 85 svo. Plenty of room to do a good system. Might consider hlcd drivers. Pretty sure they'd fit with no issues and would make everything easier tuning wise. 

Post 42.








Fox Body Mustang GT Subwoofer/enclosure ideas


I had a single 12" solobaric and 2 amps in the spare tire well. Only thing that made it look not stock, was the Kenwood head unit.




www.diymobileaudio.com






Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## FEEMC (Oct 14, 2014)

That 5.0 looking very clean cant wait to see the progress.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I’ve had two Mustangs, a 90 LX hatchback with a 5.0 and I currently have a 88 LX convertible with a 5.0. Definitely firing the subs backwards in a slanted box works best as I tried every way possible and it worked great.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)




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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

This is what I did to the door and dash speakers. Som Audiofrog G60S components.


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Great start! Pre-planning is great. I love those Morel Primo subs. I don't know what it is about that chrome dust cap like the JBL GTI as well. Solid choices all the way around.


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Nice foxbody. I love those OG MBQ coaxials......are those impala wheels?


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

Knever3... I am leaning towards 2 Morel Primo 10" subs, if I don't reuse my old JL 12W4's.

Thanks 555nova! The ROH ZR6 rims were made popular back in the day by STEEDA and are styled just like the older Impala wheels.

I need to recap the PPI amps soon. Bought a new Weller soldering station and $52 worth of electrolytic caps from Moser. I'll post pictures when I get started.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I had a Primo 10 in my Lexus and I absolutely loved it. I have a Primo 12 left over from an install that I am going to sell as I realize that I am never going to use it.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

Posted pictures of my old Thunderbird system in the Old School Show Off Thread.

1986 Thunderbird System


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I will have to see if I can find some of my old school T-bird and Mustang Installs from the late 80's and early 90's to post up. You have inspired me...LOL


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

I wish I had more pictures. Unfortunately, we didn't have digital cameras back then and all photo's I have are scans of 35mm original photos.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I will have to take a picture of a picture.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in my PPI AM2150 and ProMos50. Used 2 mil 1” wide Kapton tape instead of the mica. I also added new 10GA power wire.








Getting the old caps out was the hardest part. The old solder didn’t want to transfer to solder wick very well, thus i had to use a lot of heat. I hope I didn’t damage any nearby components or traces. I haven’t tested them yet and probably won’t until they’re installed. Fingers crossed.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Those traces look pretty big and I bet they’d be hard to damage. Love those old school amps


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Love the period correct nature of this build! If replace the surrounds in the 12s and use at least one of them or find a different period correct sub like a ProTech or something if that nature. 
also, your fox is really good looking. Love the wheels and the monochrome exterior finish.


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## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

TomV said:


> Getting the old caps out was the hardest part.


Usually the best way to do this is to add new solder to help heat transfer evenly, then wick it all up.


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## Buford1972 (Aug 1, 2021)

TomV, I am curious if you would be willing to part with the Quart speakers. I am looking for a set of the 100's but I would be interested in whatever you are not going to use.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

he Mustang stereo build is still on, but it's just going slower than I hoped. I've gotten stuck with several other projects that have taken precedence (life happens). So I doubt I'll get it completed this summer... but I'm not giving up. Actually I'm still sourcing materials and components as I research and find them. For example, I purchased the following:

Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX modular head unit
Misc. Rockford Fosgate battery terminals, fuse blocks and terminal rings
Pioneer CD-MC20 microphone for auto sound calibration
Pioneer CD-ME300 wired marine remote control
ACC Essex 1066A gray carpet with mass backing
Soundskin Pro Plus dampening sheets
100# roll of mass loaded vinyl

Some good news is I did get a couple items installed already.

1). The Morel 5x7's are in the rear factory locations and temporarily powered off the head unit.

2). I pulled the Kenwood DNX9990HD DVD Navigation head unit out and installed a Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX. It's currently still in the factory location, but I have plans to move this modular unit up to where the HVAC controls are located and move them underneath. There is no cd player, but I've ripped all my cd's to .FLAC format and have them on a USB stick.










3). I also yanked out my old Infinity3.5" dash speakers and installed the MB Quart 4" speakers. The dash cavities aren't very deep, thanks to the defrost ducts, and they aren't sealed off very well from back waves. So to create more of an infinite baffle, I cut some of the mass loaded vinyl material into gaskets to the mount drivers on. 










I'm not crazy about the mounting hardware, but this is only temporary until I can find better fasteners. However, they aren't going anywhere and I'm happy they fit under the factory grills. 










The 4" MB Quarts setup in a 3-way with some Infinity 6.5" door woofers and currently powered off my PPI AM2050 2x50W that's hidden under the drivers seat. Even at this point sound much better than the old 3.5" Infinity's. Next I'll work on the door panels and Morel 6.5" install. Eventually the front will be powered by my PPIAM2150 amplifier with 2x150W of power and the MusiComp crossovers.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

I recently added some Dynamat Extreme to the hatch. I was able to scrape off factory sound deadener before laying this down. Finished up my silver Dynamat in the spare tire well and added new black Dynamat around it. I would have gone farther with it, but I need to remove my cage to get the interior panels out. Something I will do next year when I gut the interior and complete the Dynamat, SoundSkin Pro and MLV. Here's a pic:








Also, I finally picked up some new subs, well used subs but new to me. I found a deal on a JL Audio CS210LG-TW1
Dual 10TW1 sealed PowerWedge. I'm probably going to build a new custom enclosure, but I like them being swallow mount. Hoping this 2 ohms setup will work well with my PPI ProMos50 bridged at 2ohm for 400W.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

On a side note, part of the reason this project was started and also why it's taking longer than anticipated is because I've been working on another system in my daily driver.

I have a 2019 Lincoln MKZ that came with the 14-speaker Revel audio system. It's actually a great system with an excellent tune for a factory system. However being the audiophile type, I wanted to improve it.

So my first MKZ project was to upgrade it to the 20-speaker Revel Utlima system. I was able to get the extra speakers and amplifier off ebay for $400, thus saving $4000 that it would have cost if I ordered it that way. The upgrade does sound even better, but was still missing the low end. So I installed a JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 powered subwoofer under the rear deck. I have a gain knob on the drivers seat and I can dial in the extra low end as needed now.

I have a couple threads on the Lincoln MKZ Forum for anyone interested in those upgrades.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

Update: I was lucky to find a BNIB JL Audio CS110G-W6v3 on eBay. I think I'm going to use this instead of the two 10TW1's I bought prior.

My plan would be center the sub behind the rear seats and firing back into the hatch. I'd also recover the box with gray fabric and paint the plastic cover smoke gray to match the interior. Then I'd mount a PPI amp on either side of it, so the entire assembly spanned the back of the seats.










What would you guys run with the PPI ProMos 50 at 400W rms bridged into 2ohms? The two 10TW1's or the one 10W6v3?


10TW1's have a listed response of 26-200 Hz and sensitivity of 82.2dB, with one-way excursion 0.40 in.
10W6v3 has a listed response of 22-200 Hz and sensitivity of 82.7dB, with one-way excursion 0.75 in.


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## eficalibrator (Aug 25, 2005)

In a previous life, I had one JL 10w6v2 in my 93 LX hatchback. Powered by a 500/1, it was an impressive amount of bass. I had previously demo'd the JL slot ported Pro box (same driver, just a really wide ported box) and actually said "that's too much", LOL. You should be fine with 300WRMS into a single W6v3. I found it sounded best tucked against the rear seat facing the tail lights too, but your mileage may vary.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

My experience is that up against the rear seats facing backwards works the best. I tried several configurations, including up towards the hatch glass and had a good amount of cabin gain when facing reward.


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## TomV (Nov 17, 2020)

Well, it has been a while. The build is not completed yet, but I did make some progress before I put it away for winter.

First is I sold the JL Audio CS210LG-TW1 dual subs and am going to use the single 10W6v3 and probably in a custom enclosure. I also recapped my Precision Power 2050AM that I had running under my seat.

I gutted the interior and removed the factory sound deadener. Where you see gray primer, is where the asphalt type factory sound deadener was used.









With the interior out, I was able to repaint most of the plastic panels. I also added some CLD to the backside of various panels to add mass and dampen vibration.









The rear quarter panels received SoundSkin Pro Plus. 









also stuffed some Rockwool Sound Insulation into the rear quarters. The nice thing about this stuff is that it’s not permanent.









The floor received Dynamat Extreme. The white duct tap on the sides keeps the Rockwool from blowing out.









The trans tunnel received SoundSkin Pro Plus. 









So did the roof.









Followed by an insulating sound absorbing layer.









Last cool mod was the rearview camera hanging under my hatch.


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