# Practically, SQ



## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I have begun my install in my '17 Focus. Not a bad car, cheap, and gas mileage is 35MPG. I drive 500 or more miles a week so this car is good enough.

The plan is to have a great soundstage and imaging with an accentuated bottom end. Or as I call me wife, "fully developed" 

It has been very cold in PA. I do not have a heated garage and this is the only car I have. I have to plan my install around the weather and for when I need to drive, this makes the install and little harder. I have not taken a lot of pictures so far of the install but I plan to.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

For the front stage I am using Morel Integra 424. they will be mounted in the a-pillars.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Also for the front stage. 6.5" for the doors. Either SI or Dayton, depends on what sounds best and how much work I want to put into this.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I burn-in all my speakers using a small Bluetooth amp.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I make my RCA cables using Switchcraft RCA ends and Beldon coaxial cable. I didn't take pics of the assembly.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

There are 2 installation steps that I am always concerned about, the alternator install and running the power and ground to the trunk. Both are done 

I am using a AutoTech Enginering 350a alternator and 2/0 power and ground wire.

Stock alternator beside the 350amp alternator









2/0 wire 



















I use DuraFlex on the power cables that are not in the cabin.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Running the 2/0 to the trunk was the easiest power runs I ever did, woot woot!


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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

Looks like a great start so far and those daytons look like they could provide some of that always enjoyable accentuated bottom end 😆.

Whats the rest of the system plans? Amps/dsp/subs?


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I installed SoundShield on the floor from the rear seats to the front footwell. This product is really easy to use.


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## MythosDreamLab (Nov 28, 2020)

Great job, so far, keep 'em coming...


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

I like this build, with 500 miles a week this will well enjoyed. It seems most of us put the "nice system" in the car that sits in the garage.


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## JP Fabrication (Feb 20, 2008)

I am loving this so far. Great work


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## Muu (Jan 22, 2020)

like the use of cable glands


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

clange2485 said:


> Looks like a great start so far and those daytons look like they could provide some of that always enjoyable accentuated bottom end 😆.
> 
> Whats the rest of the system plans? Amps/dsp/subs?


Thanks for asking, I didn't post yet... I have all the equipment I need.

H/U is installed - Kenwood DNX997XR
DSP - MiniDSP 8x12 DL 
Front Stage - Morel and either SI or Dayton 
Differential rear fill - Morel
Sub - 15" Ampere Audio Encore
Amps - (2) SI SIQ125.4
Sub amp - Wolfram AW-3000.1

I was originally going to be using (4) 4" aeroports but the box ended up being too large.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I wanted to use an XS Power battery under the hod but I could not make it fit properly. The factory battery box has to stay, the stock wiring is built into it.










The battery was too tall and it would not fit securely  









New factory battery with aftermarket air cleaner for additional room.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I started to work on my differential rear fill but I do not like the idea that I originally had. Plan B is to install the subwoofer enclosure and then build the rear fill pods around that.

Cutting the rings.





































My original design for differential rear fill that I decided will not work.


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## MythosDreamLab (Nov 28, 2020)

Love those rear pods...>!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

MythosDreamLab said:


> Love those rear pods...>!


Unfortunately I don’t think I can make them work there.


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## Sam b (Oct 10, 2020)

Awesome looking build so far. What part of PA are u in


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Sam b said:


> Awesome looking build so far. What part of PA are u in


I’m in the Poconos. Do you live nearby?


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## Sam b (Oct 10, 2020)

Ok. I’m about 1.5 hours away from there.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Sam b said:


> Ok. I’m about 1.5 hours away from there.


I like to meet local members of this forum 👍. After this build is completed, I’d love to get your review.


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## Sam b (Oct 10, 2020)

Yea. Absolutely. I’m doing a Supra right now. Will let u know when I’m done as well. You will prob be done before me


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

edouble101 said:


> I burn-in all my speakers using a small Bluetooth amp.
> 
> View attachment 326106
> 
> ...


i had the SI and I have the epique
The epique kicks the crap out of si 

the si did sound very nice, but it’s simply not made to have long excursion… it’s designed to have linear BL though out it’s excursion….

you will love how the epique plays into the low 60s at full power and blends with sub, or have no sub with this one honestly


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

oabeieo said:


> i had the SI and I have the epique
> The epique kicks the crap out of si
> 
> the si did sound very nice, but it’s simply not made to have long excursion… it’s designed to have linear BL though out it’s excursion….
> ...


Thank you for the comment. The epique is a big driver, I hope it will fit! I read that the SI xmax parameter was not accurate to actual performance.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I removed the driver's door card to take a peek. Unfortunately, there are 2 large holes that I will have to cover and I am hopeful that the Epiques will fit. I need 4-1/2" of depth from the back of the speaker flange to the window, from factory the inner door sheet metal is 3". I am not going to cut the factory grill to accommodate these drivers.

*The door card sits into the door sheet metal towards the bottom, therefore I can not use a flat piece of plastic or metal to cover the openings. You can aslo see in the pictures that the 2 areas that I have to cover and seal are not flat. What do you recommend I use to cover these holes?

Should I just cover the factory plastic shown below in SoundShield?

























*


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## Irishklover (Nov 8, 2020)

Wow this build is coming out great !!
Nice job .


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

edouble101 said:


> Thank you for the comment. The epique is a big driver, I hope it will fit! I read that the SI xmax parameter was not accurate to actual performance.


thats exactly right…. Si still a good sounding ….um…midrange


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

@edouble101 - nice build! I'm in NJ here about 2 hours South East of you.

Are you using a DSP?


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

steelwindmachine said:


> @edouble101 - nice build! I'm in NJ here about 2 hours South East of you.
> 
> Are you using a DSP?


What’s up man. I’m in NJ often for weekend trips. We’ll definitely have to get together once I complete this.

I’m using a MiniDSP 8x12 DL.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I have the front doors treated. There “was” a plastic cover over the door metal, this drove me nuts because it crackled during certain songs. It’s gone now! Let’s hope I don’t have to repair anything in these doors 😉










There were gaps in the door and I came up with a solution. Hopefully it does not backfire on me. I used peel and seal flashing from Lowe’s to cover the holes.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I covered the door metal with SoundShield. I used the plastic as a template. Door panels fit back on perfectly.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Lol, I forget these pics.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I finished my 4 rolls of SoundShield in the trunk. It’s a savings to buy 4, then it bites you because you need 1 more roll to fully finish the car.









This is all I have left.








Tools that I used to cut and apply material.

Hole punch.








Snips








Heat gun








Roller


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I made a cross section template of my sub enclosure.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I’m still deciding on component placement. Everything is tight. I want to be able to see as much of the amp guts as possible. I definitely have my work cutout for me…..

You can see the MiniDSP in a couple pics, it’s tiny compared to the amps!

BTW that’s a super capacitor not a battery.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

For hole covering like you did - 

Fasten a piece of abs at one end and hit it with the heat gun as it softens press it in as deep as needed. Let it cool. Trim part sticking out past the door panel but leave enough for a lip to fasten the rest of the abs to. Heat the remaining/excess lip and press tight against the door panel. Add fasteners.

Basically molding it like you would with cld. It only takes a minute ot two per hole. 

I personally would take that peel-n-seel right back out. I'm am a roofing contractor and can tell you that stuff just gets soft and gooey. I won't even use it to patch stuff for temporary repairs. It will stop the leak but once the sun hits it will soften up and wrinkle. It will definitely melt in a door.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Theslaking said:


> For hole covering like you did -
> 
> Fasten a piece of abs at one end and hit it with the heat gun as it softens press it in as deep as needed. Let it cool. Trim part sticking out past the door panel but leave enough for a lip to fasten the rest of the abs to. Heat the remaining/excess lip and press tight against the door panel. Add fasteners.
> 
> ...


What you suggested certainly would have been better than what I did. I will leave the peel-n-seal there and deal with it if I have too.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

If you're not using a ring that protects the top of the driver at least do that.


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

yeah, that peel-n-stick will get real gooey in the summers here. Hopefully it doesn't detach in the door and then allow that section of deadening to flop around. Honestly, fixing it now will be much easier than trying to deal with it after it's already become a gooey mess. The cold weather will help keep the adhesive a bit more hardened and will make it easier to remove.

You don't want to be dealing with this, see down by paragraph where it begins, "Here are some examples of what can happen when you use a cheap sound deadening product with an asphalt-based adhesive layer..."






Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions







resonixsoundsolutions.com


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Theslaking said:


> If you're not using a ring that protects the top of the driver at least do that.





steelwindmachine said:


> yeah, that peel-n-stick will get real gooey in the summers here. Hopefully it doesn't detach in the door and then allow that section of deadening to flop around. Honestly, fixing it now will be much easier than trying to deal with it after it's already become a gooey mess. The cold weather will help keep the adhesive a bit more hardened and will make it easier to remove.
> 
> You don't want to be dealing with this, see down by paragraph where it begins, "Here are some examples of what can happen when you use a cheap sound deadening product with an asphalt-based adhesive layer..."
> 
> ...


Well looks like I am the forum idiot for the time being. I ripped out 99.5% of the peel-n-seal.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I cut a few mounting rings both for myself and another forum member.

If anyone needs custom mounting rings let me know.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

edouble101 said:


> Well looks like I am the forum idiot for the time being.


Nope. An idiot would have left it. Your just a guy that made a mistake.


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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

edouble101 said:


> Well looks like I am the forum idiot for the time being. I ripped out 99.5% of the peel-n-seal.
> View attachment 326854
> 
> View attachment 326853
> ...


We've all BTDT ... kudos to you. 

I traded cars and started over cause it had already gone thru a deep south summer. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Theslaking said:


> Nope. An idiot would have left it. Your just a guy that made a mistake.


This is good for others to see as well.



daloudin said:


> We've all BTDT ... kudos to you.
> 
> I traded cars and started over cause it had already gone thru a deep south summer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wow, what happened?


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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

edouble101 said:


> This is good for others to see as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, what happened?


Spent an entire summer almost 20 (I'm getting old...) years ago deadening an older Black Honda Accord with some cheap asphalt based material (it's no longer even made) that was a clone of Dynamat in an attempt to make some semblance of a SQ vehicle. New nothing about how to properly deaden a car other than to cover everything. 

Comes the next summer and I've spent the entire winter trying to figure out why it was still a noisy rattletrap... anyway, July rolls around and it was left closed up in the long term parking while on vacation (highs around 104⁰) and came back to it smelling like an asphalt plant, the product on the roof melted and luckily, was mostly caught by the headliner (never even bothered to look in the doors) so I cleaned it up, put a new headliner in and traded it on an SUV.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

daloudin said:


> Spent an entire summer almost 20 (I'm getting old...) years ago deadening an older Black Honda Accord with some cheap asphalt based material (it's no longer even made) that was a clone of Dynamat in an attempt to make some semblance of a SQ vehicle. New nothing about how to properly deaden a car other than to cover everything.
> 
> Comes the next summer and I've spent the entire winter trying to figure out why it was still a noisy rattletrap... anyway, July rolls around and it was left closed up in the long term parking while on vacation (highs around 104⁰) and came back to it smelling like an asphalt plant, the product on the roof melted and luckily, was mostly caught by the headliner (never even bothered to look in the doors) so I cleaned it up, put a new headliner in and traded it on an SUV.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That’s crazy man!


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

looking forward to hearing your experiences after you get to tuning


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## TheTodd (Feb 11, 2016)

edouble101 said:


> I like to meet local members of this forum 👍. After this build is completed, I’d love to get your review.


I’m in Harrisburg (actually closer to Hershey) and would love to get a listen when it’s done as well. We should try to get a PA GTG organized.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

TheTodd said:


> I’m in Harrisburg (actually closer to Hershey) and would love to get a listen when it’s done as well. We should try to get a PA GTG organized.


I have been to a GTG many years ago, it would be great to do that again.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Naiku does VA one.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Those door panels that recess into the holes are a pain in the ass, my last truck had that, truck I have now is much better. So easy they have a company that makes block off plates out of half inch hdpe ready to go, what a blessing, worth the 81 bucks I spent on them.

Gear is nice, execution is looking great, keep working it!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I changed my subwoofer from a 15” to a 12”. After mocking the 15” enclosure requirements, it is too big for my trunk. The 12” needs a 2.25ft^3 versus the 15” needing 4ft^3.

The Fi 12” is a very impressive looking speaker!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I started building the enclosure. I made a lot of mistakes with my cuts and you can see that. I’ll be using a full sized 3/4” cast acrylic baffle between the plywood baffles. 

All wood is held together with screws for now. I’ll be taking it a part and reassembling it with glue after I have everything fitted correctly.


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## StaudiA6 (Nov 13, 2021)

What type of wood are you using? I was planning to use Baltic Birch but supply is tough right now. Considering MDF or another plywood just not sure what a good BB alternative would be.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

StaudiA6 said:


> What type of wood are you using? I was planning to use Baltic Birch but supply is tough right now. Considering MDF or another plywood just not sure what a good BB alternative would be.


I think it was birch plywood, could have been maple. I bought it months ago from Lowe’s.


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## humandrummachine (May 17, 2010)

What a nice enclosure and good build quality overall. I'm glad you took off that peel n seal too, its asphalt based. I put some in my trunk years ago and it is melting... not looking forward to removing it.


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## humandrummachine (May 17, 2010)

Did you notice a difference from covering your door holes with the soundshield? I am considering doing the same thing since I also have a ford with similar design.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

humandrummachine said:


> Did you notice a difference from covering your door holes with the soundshield? I am considering doing the same thing since I also have a ford with similar design.
> 
> View attachment 331497


I did hear a difference.

1. The factory plastic barrier would rattle, with it removed now it doesn’t.
2. Less noise from the doors from having an actual sound deadening barrier versus the factory plastic.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I have my subwoofer enclosure mostly done. This enclosure took me the longest to make and I made the most mistakes making it than I ever have.


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## Maceo23 (May 25, 2009)

How is that peel and seal aluminum working for you? I haven’t been able to seal up my doors very well because the window regulator sticks out past the inner skin. I might be able to seal it up with that peel and seal if it’s been working well for you.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Top of page 3 they said they ripped out 99% of it.

I've seen people use aluminum bars mounted across the opening to section out the hole and then use a good quality deadening over that with some success.


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## Maceo23 (May 25, 2009)

Caustic said:


> Top of page 3 they said they ripped out 99% of it.
> 
> I've seen people use aluminum bars mounted across the opening to section out the hole and then use a good quality deadening over that with some success.


Yeah, I just saw where he ripped everything out. I might give the sectioning a shot. Thanks for the info!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

So far this build is not going as planned. I’m not pleased with my craftsmanship. This thread shows a lower quality build. 

Finally got the sub mounted. That was a big PITA due to mistakes I made building the enclosure.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Plan A was to mount the Morel's in the a-pillars. That ended up not working because it was impossible to put the a-pillars back in.










Plan B is to make dash pods. Here is how that went today.

Not ideal conditions.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I taped the dash corners in hopes of not making an unwanted mess. I traced the area that I want to cover with fiberglass.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I cut the fiberglass mat to manageable sizes then I wet them out.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I trimmed the fiberglass and laid in a thin layer of bondo.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I reinforced the inside and then covered a piece of fabric with resin that was taught tight on the pod.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

What do you think I should use to over the pods. Paint? Vinyl?


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Read this whole thread and just now realized you're doing morel pointsource lol Those pods look fantastic! I quickly glassed some Morel Ovation XO4 into my pillars, didn't even do bondo/smoothing on one as I figured I'd better listen to them and make sure they sound good before going all the way and spending hours and dollars on it. Great sounding driver to me. May go even bigger to the 5" instead of finishing them as I know they'll go in now 🤣🤡

If you can viynl wrap it to match the dash, they'd be beautiful.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Caustic said:


> Read this whole thread and just now realized you're doing morel pointsource lol Those pods look fantastic! I quickly glassed some Morel Ovation XO4 into my pillars, didn't even do bondo/smoothing on one as I figured I'd better listen to them and make sure they sound good before going all the way and spending hours and dollars on it. Great sounding driver to me. May go even bigger to the 5" instead of finishing them as I know they'll go in now 🤣🤡
> 
> If you can viynl wrap it to match the dash, they'd be beautiful.


I'd like to see what you did with your a-pillars. If you want to comment with pics go for it  I do have high expectations for these Morel drivers.

I might outsource the vinyl wrapping for these pods. Or I could flock them, that would be quick and should look good as well.

I want to do the best that I can do and at the same time I want this done now, lol. Some decisions I make will be chosen based on time constraint.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Oh lawd, mine are ugly as sin, I've got maybe 3 hours of actual work into them lol no one wants to see that

And I've already picked up another set of pillars, I'll be getting some 5" soon


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## TheTodd (Feb 11, 2016)

As far as covering them, keep in mind material thickness and clearances between your pods and the glass & pillars. If the pods are right up against the glass & pillars a headliner material (minus the foam backing) might be best or something similarly thin


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

edouble101 said:


> What do you think I should use to over the pods. Paint? Vinyl?


SEM Color Coat. Can match your interior and it's has a little texture so it doesn't look bland like paint.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I’ve decided to flock them. I’ve done that twice before and it looked good. Super easy as well.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Caustic said:


> Oh lawd, mine are ugly as sin, I've got maybe 3 hours of actual work into them lol no one wants to see that
> 
> And I've already picked up another set of pillars, I'll be getting some 5" soon


You’ve seen my car audio install skills, yours can’t be much worse 😐


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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

Following now, excited to see your continued progress.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Who else loves how cool these amps look!! 

These JP amps are awesome!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

We returned from vacation yesterday and I resumed with my install today. 

More mistakes were made lol.

My driver's side pod was slightly larger than the passenger side. This is partly sue to the dash not being symmetrical, I trimmed the driver's pod as much as I could.

This is a before trim pic.








+

To enclose the pods I used fabric and resin. I has previously used polyurethane resin. The shelf-life is only a few months and by the time I used it it was expiring. This time around I bought epoxy resin, costs slightly more but for my needs I find it worth the price. 










I went through a lot of gloves and brushes. Harbor Freight FTW.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

This is how I enclosed my pods.

I am sure that this is not the best method, but worked OK for me.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)




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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Mistakes made.... I added weights to the pods then attempted to cover the inside with resin, body filler and fiberglass, what I mess this turned out to be  

They're ok, just to expertly done like most installs on this forum.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I used a different technique for the differential rear fill. Again, not expertly done, ehh.


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## Mooster1223 (Aug 3, 2020)

This is AWESOME!!! 

How do you plan on securing the dash pods? 

I'm considering making some for my 2003 Park Avenue. Other than using 3M double sided tape, I can't figure out how to secure them without putting holes in my pillars.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Mooster1223 said:


> This is AWESOME!!!
> 
> How do you plan on securing the dash pods?
> 
> I'm considering making some for my 2003 Park Avenue. Other than using 3M double sided tape, I can't figure out how to secure them without putting holes in my pillars.


Thanks, but don't use my build as a inspirational, most are better 

Since I do not have a-pillar airbags, I will be drilling a hole and screwing them to the a-pillar. I think that is the best route for this install. I have a cheap car so I am not worried about a couple holes here and there.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Boxes of gloves a must! I double and triple them up so I can strip them as needed after I get them all sticky lol.

Stop selling yourself short, that all looks fantastic dude! People have paid for far less quality.

@Mooster1223 can you get a used set of pillars? Then you can do whatever you want, I'd surmise that bolt and nut would be the best and most secure way but I assume you could also use strong double sided tape or nice velcro.


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## Mooster1223 (Aug 3, 2020)

@Caustic. Unfortunately not. Parts have been discontinued and used cars have been crushed. I've already tried to source door cards and found nothing.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Well that sucks, could try alien tape, double sided 3m, velcro


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I was not a fan of pods built with wood sticks, they can be obtrusive if not done right. I felt that more work was needed from where I stopped with mine yesterday. Now, I think they look good.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I finished cutting my TM65iii baffles. I love how these drivers look. 




















I built a holder for my XS Power Superbank.



















Decided to drop the subwoofer enclosure in the trunk and see how things look.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I am using Jims Machineworx Amplifier Racks to mount the (2) JP234.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I am thinking that the miniDSP will be in the spare till well. I don't think it will work anywhere else.

I am using KnuKonceptz distribution blocks, these things are awesome.


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## MattAFLiving (Aug 27, 2021)

edouble101 said:


> I was not a fan of pods built with wood sticks, they can be obtrusive if not done right. I felt that more work was needed from where I stopped with mine yesterday. Now, I think they look good.
> 
> View attachment 338169
> 
> ...


Those turned out looking great!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

This guy stopped by from some corn.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

MattAFLiving said:


> Those turned out looking great!


Thanks!! I am not sure which was more difficult, the front or rear pods. They both do the same thing but are made differently.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

🤣🤣🤣 I love the coca cola shaping! It's like chipboard! I used some mountain dew 12 pack cuttings for my quick and dirty pillars, worked like a charm. 

My Morel XO5's are here, will be time to redo my pillars here as soon as we get back from visiting family in Arkansas. I got a package of chipboard and will definitely be using it as it's nice to get a good shape to begin with, so much less volcano-y, and easy to work with as well as cheap. 

Keep up the stellar work dude!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Caustic said:


> 🤣🤣🤣 I love the coca cola shaping! It's like chipboard! I used some mountain dew 12 pack cuttings for my quick and dirty pillars, worked like a charm.
> 
> My Morel XO5's are here, will be time to redo my pillars here as soon as we get back from visiting family in Arkansas. I got a package of chipboard and will definitely be using it as it's nice to get a good shape to begin with, so much less volcano-y, and easy to work with as well as cheap.
> 
> Keep up the stellar work dude!


Nice, are you posting a build log?


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

Depends on if I take pictures, I'm terrible at taking pictures if progress... I stop for pictures and then I go on break lol. It's also summer time here in the desert and working in a carport is quite a hot affair.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Slow progress, I am ready to have this done! 2 more weekends and this system should be working and tuned. It is just a matter of planning 2 weekends for this.

My dash pods and complete and the speakers are mounted. I am using Belden 5102UP 14 AWG 4C Hi-Flex Speaker Cable CL3 speaker wire to the Morel Integra 424 Hybrid Series 4" Point Source Coaxial Full-Range.

After I have enjoyed the system for a bit I will build grills for the drivers for looks.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I had to take the doors off to get the Belden 5000UP 12 AWG 2C Hi-Flex Speaker Cable CL3 speaker wire to the Stereo Integrity TM65 mkIII's.

BTW these Stereo Integrity TM65 mkIII's look killer!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I mounted the Mini DSP controller in a small compartment. I cut Install Bay ABS116 ABS 12" X 12" X 1/16" as a cover plate and used J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive to adhere it to the stock panel. Not PRO looking but good enough for me.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Driver’s side TM65 is in. Passenger side will look the same. I cut baffles from 1/2” cutting board.


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

why 12AWG wire for the door speakers? did you just have that laying around? 14-16 AWG would have been more than adequate and obviously easier to snake through the car.

Nice use of cutting boards


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

steelwindmachine said:


> why 12AWG wire for the door speakers? did you just have that laying around? 14-16 AWG would have been more than adequate and obviously easier to snake through the car.
> 
> Nice use of cutting boards


I bought the wire last year, not sure what I was thinking at that time, regardless it will work well. Getting the wire from the trunk to the front cabin was no problem. Even if I had a smaller diameter wire I'd still have to take the doors off.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

I should have this playing after another day of installing. I’m getting closer!


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

edouble101 said:


> Driver’s side TM65 is in. Passenger side will look the same. I cut baffles from 1/2” cutting board.
> 
> View attachment 342945
> 
> ...


Keep an eye on those cutting board baffles... I've had some work great and some crack from heat. If I recall, the ones that cracked were from Wally World.


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice


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## abbispa (Feb 24, 2015)

We need an update. I really like the pointsource idea, interested in how it is working.


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## Caustic (May 13, 2018)

abbispa said:


> We need an update. I really like the pointsource idea, interested in how it is working.


I think it works fantastic. If you got the room on the pillar for a good 4" or 5" pointsource, it's well worth the effort. I still have Morel XO5 sitting in a box in storage, waiting til we get into our house to get them fabbed in. The Morel XO4's that are in the pillars now are doing just fine until then.


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

abbispa said:


> We need an update. I really like the pointsource idea, interested in how it is working.


Not too much to update unfortunately. I had a very busy summer and fall and not much progress on this.

Here are a few pics of what I do have done. The equipment in the pics are not fully installed but started.

*the blue tape on the RCA cables is temporary


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## Forddenial (8 mo ago)

edouble101 said:


> I have my subwoofer enclosure mostly done. This enclosure took me the longest to make and I made the most mistakes making it than I ever have.
> 
> View attachment 335613
> 
> ...



You're gonna make me harass my dad to let me use his CNC wood lathe.....that box is killer


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Forddenial said:


> You're gonna make me harass my dad to let me use his CNC wood lathe.....that box is killer


I wish I had a CNC to cut wood. I think I scraped more wood than what was needed to make the box 🤔

Thanks for the props though!


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

This system is playing, finally. I have a terrible alternator whine that I have to address, probably due to a faulty RCA cable. IDK. The noise is a big bummer, it would have been great if it was playing flawlessly from the start. 

I had a terrible time with routing the signal path in MiniDSP. I must have mislabeled RCA cables so that was super frustrating to figure out. As-is now, balance and fader from the h/u work as should but the routing configuration in MiniDSP makes no sense 

Without a tune, I can tell that there is potential. Soundstage is above the dash, pulls hard to the left, again not tune. System definitely needs eq'd. Midrange freqs and up are really thin. The bass hits so hard, quick and not muddy at all, huge smile on my face with that!

This Saturday I'll be digging into this more to understand what is causing the alternator noise and with my DSP routing is so f'd up.


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

follow this guide for your DSP and you'll hopefully be right as rain: MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (Dirac Live): Quick Tuning Guide


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

steelwindmachine said:


> follow this guide for your DSP and you'll hopefully be right as rain: MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (Dirac Live): Quick Tuning Guide


I have that, it doesn't help me with having RCA's crossed.


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

edouble101 said:


> I have that, it doesn't help me with having RCA's crossed.


ah, yeah, not so much, sorry. i guess a VOM or wire tracer would be helpful  If you lived nearby I'd gladly lone you mine. Would make short work of sorting that out.


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