# charade hatch back install..



## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

hey all, this is my daihatsu charade... its getting there slowly, but so far ive done a full retrim to every thing apart from seats and dashboard...

im currently re-doing the hatch area, and making a cover over the sub boxes and will be adding a parcel shelf for logo and rear speakers..

goodies list = 
pioneer 9850bt head unit..
focal kps165 splits up front.
jl audio amps...a 300/4 amp running the fronts at 150x2 wrms.
a 300/4 (not wired yet, for midbass extension when installed.)
a 1000/1 mono block 
2x 12inch w3v3-4 subs. in sealed 35 ltr boxes.
optima d34 battery (yellow top)
stinger accesseries,
1 farad cap.

a picture says 1000 words so ill add some pics hey..


ill post some almost finished pics, then build pics, for those that just want a quick look..










the flat surface is the back of the rear seats, rarther then just having the seat cover straps and stuff showing, i made a backing board, a jl logo with neon rope illumination..and some other logo sections that are not completed yet..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

i added the first post to make sure all was working as it should, heres some more pics

excuse the gaps between the parcel shelf and amp rack cover,the parcel shelf isnt bolted down, so its sitting up on some pics.. will up date with better ones soon....










the logo on the shelf says stinger, and jl audio..(of course)
its very bright in real life, but this is taken with a crappy camera and thru tinted windows..
thers 2 leds on each distro block, 2 30cm and a 60cm neon on top of the amps, and there is 1 led shining down on each rear speaker, they are pioneer splits, but are not hooked up as they make the focals sound bad..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the pic above shows the car, but its tilting into a spoon drain in the drive way, so it sits abit higher then normal in this pic..










the subs and cap, im in the process now of making new boxes to cover up the gaps and ive relocated the cap into the amp rack..there will be a cover peice go over the whole box set up










i removed the lock and wiper from the hatch lid, for look as well as vibratitions from the wiper, 










front on view of the car, meshed insert in the grille, cold air intake and k&n filter in factory box.. 1.5 ltr motor upgrade from 1.3ltr when it died..


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## lyttleviet (Sep 11, 2008)

looks very nice! 

A little busy for my taste but I can appreciate the work.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the doors are a full re trim, my own design/choice of colours etc, all work was done by myself, so its pretty basic, but neater then before, i think..










while we are on the door topic, heres a build pic of the speaker pod, new door card, and map pocket .. just sitting there to get an idea of finished look..











sound deadened doors.. i cut 3mm mdf to cover the access holes and then taped it in place..then deadened over the top of it all.. if i need to get into the door cavity, i just cut around the mdf with a razor blade and it will drop off, then deaden over it again..











passenger side door with no speaker cover.. and no window winder, my little puppy ran off with it, i never did find it. had to get a wrecker replacement.. but thats what pups do, 










the dash , the peice in the centre is a pod, it holds a centre channel, 4inch tacho, amp temp gauges. and will hold a screen on the other side.. you can also see in this pic, the roof lining trim, and sun visors are trimmed too..
the pod will be painted the dash board color, and blend in with the siver surrounds of the gauges with the other silver painted trim peices..










the head unit, above is a bluetooth pioneer unit..has time allignment, 15 band eq, and alot of other features, color screen, aux input and all the usual stuff..











tweeter mounts..they seem to be pointing down in the pics, but when your in the car, they are not as bad, it actually improved the stage depth and height too for some weird reason, also the focal tweeters were bright and it just worked for them in that location, on the angle....











floor is totally sound deadened, so is the rest of the car to the same degree, one full layer.. ive also trimmed the backs of all the plastics and that helped with road noise alot aswell..










plastic trims, seat insert material was used on the back of all the trim peices to stop any buzzing from metal on plastic..










pic of wiring and more deadening..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

heres the dash pod, loaded , far from finished but a progress pic anyway..











the head unit wiring, all neat and tidy..











above is a pic of the pod when i was working out what colour to paint it.. the red looks pinkish in this pic, i think its the camera flash doing that.. after this i decided to mould the stinger volt meter into the middle front section, instead of just screwing it on..










just a build pic of pod again...










fire ext', mounted to a bracket, bolt to the floor panel using factory bolts holes.. i did this to get a better angle on the fire extinguisher, because before the bracket it never sat on an angle, either up, or sideways.. looks better like this i think..










earth upgrade, also there is a 4 gauge to chassis, 4 gauge from alternator to batt +, 12gauge to headlight earth points, all direct from the battery terminlas...










beginnings of new boxes










making templates for top and sides of the boxes..










foiled for resin protection and mould removal..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

after a couple of layers of matt, also, texta line is the line representing the top edge ill need to glass too...










dry, and ready for more layers..










mould being removed , texta line traced onto fibreglass from the original line..










excess matting cut off and sat back in for trial fit.. the texta lline above the box is for the cover peice, so i needed to allow a good couple of inches clearance from it, it didnt need to be any higher anyway, so the cover will clear everything easilly..










box out of car, ready for ring placement... i let the f/glass dry over night, then pulled the mould out..










i didnt have the build pics of that side box on photobucket so ive swapped to the other sides pics...  
so heres the sub ring in place. firm, and ready for fleecing.. you can also see ive added a couple of coats of resin to the corners of the box so its sealed well..










fleeced and ready for resin.. hot glued, and stapled in most areas, no staples in glass obviously, but its glued well and to the inside of the box so the glass will meet up flush with the top piece when matting goes on.. 










1 resin coat, i let it dry a bit, then added 3 layers of matt..
i let that dry for about 20minutes in the sun and then added another 2 layers, plus a resin layer inside to anywahere i thought needed it....










pics are of other sides box again, but you get the idea..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

clean up the edges, added some more resin to the joins and trial fitted the box when dry..










fitted the sub, used a sub ring gasket for a tight seal, and fitted the terminal cup for the sub wiring..










fitted both boxes and subs to the car for a quick run to see how they sound, to be honest, the boxes are a bit big i think, but better then too small. i can always add fill to make it tighter punchier bass.. the space between the boxes will hold a long thin optima battery if needed in the future, under the boxes will be the power inverter for the play station..










this pic shows the top peice of the cover over the sub boxes and the rings ill use to fleece around the subs.. the plan is to glue the fleece to the top, around the rings, and then under the hatch rubber and resin coat it, then add fibre glass matting to it..










a diffrent angle of the above pic, same deal as above.. fleeced to edges and fibre glassed...










just a pic of the jasper jig i made to cut the rings id need, took about 20 minutes to make, but made perfect rings, which i needed for the inner circle of the cover peice..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the above pic is of the mono block mounting board, which is also the back board of the amp rack..its outed down half way to allow the aluminium insert to sit flush with the back when its glued down..










the front side of the amp rack bac board.. obviously its been trimmed, and had the aliminium insert glued in place. the mono block will be screwed to this now and then screwed to the back of the amp rack..










1000/1 is mounted to the board, you can see the rubber grommets in the pic, i used 2 under each corner to allow air flow and also to obsord some vibration, and they act as a spring washer so the screws dont vibrate loose..










the above pic shows the amp back board, screwed in place, and the routed adge that follows the same shape as the middle peice and front cover panel.. almost..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

above is the start of some tailght covers i made for the car.. the same, tape and foil process is used as with the boxes to protect the lenses from resin and fibre glass matt..










removed the mould after tracing the tail light shape.. i left about 3mm over so i could sand back to the exact line i wanted.. 










filler added and sanded, its easier to sand if you cut the holes you want afterwards.




























lenses tinted,


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

covers painted and fitted.. i just need to get brighter globes to bring back some brightness to the lense, they dont look too bad in the day time, and are fine at night, but ill get some brighter globes anyway..


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

sweet,
i like the doors simple/custom looks factory
well if factory was cool..lol

nice install man, lots of work now rest that sanding arm..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

cheers dude, that was the idea with the doors, 
i couldnt realy go the factory trims again when i had done the roof in black and a.b.c pillars in red, so i decided to blend them, the rest i got a bit carried away with  

thats mostly what i like about car audio tho, the fabrication, not into bass or alot of volume, just good sounds, and clean, legal fun of creating custom stuff..

the sanding arm is getting ready for round 2-3 and 4 when the hatch cover gets glassed..hehe..

thanks for your comments....


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well, a little progress thanks to the guys on this site, ive been advised to have a mounting ring and trim(fleece ring) together and part of the cover, to add strecgth to it, and to mount it firmly..

heres some pics of the little bit of work i got done, the idea is to fleece to the plastic edge, then let the fibre glass mould hold its own and support its self in place, if there is vibration, ill add some double sided foam tape to stop it.. the glassed edge wont be seen with the rubber back on..



















in the next pics below, the rings will be on the under side of the fleece and there wont be the dips etc in the fleece as it will go to the rings inside edges..so more shape to it..



















hope this works out the way i've planned it, or ill be very


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## nidekcus (Sep 30, 2008)

Not a bad effort 

I think I have seen your car somewhere before....


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

hey andy, this site is better man,  , more knowledge imo..

well ive glassed up the cover, it is drying and will get another layer or 2 tommorow as it got dark and i couldnt keep working,, which sux bigtime, i wanted it all done and be able to let it all dry over night.. but it wont matter..
gonna be hot so it wont take long to cure..





































theres a shelf going on top of the box cover, and some logos. maybe a cap in between the subs and a veiwing window down into the cavity to see the spare optima battery set up..

not 100% sure what im doing, ill work it out as i go, i got sick of making plans, only to find that every time i found some reason why it couldnt be done how i wanted,so it all changes anyway..

it'll work its self out as i go along... i hope


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

the cover is fitted and rubber seal hides the fibre glass edge which is great..

i still have alot of work ahead of me, but im happy with the result so far, considering it was the first fibre glass cover that ive made over a hatch back its came out ok.














































the pic above is looking thru the hatch window ,looking dwon into the car.. alot more room for the bass to enter the cabin then before with the shelf set up i had going on..

ill start the shelf next and then do all the filler work at one time, i still need ideas for breaking up the plain look of it, if any one has any ideas, pls comment..thanks for looking..

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

IN THE PICS WITH THE DOUBLED UP RINGS, 
I HAD TO GO WITH A DIFFRENT WAY OF MOUNTING THE SUBS, BECAUSE THE RINGS WERE HITTING ON THE HATCH LID, SO I DID IT DIFFRENTLY AND ITS FINE NOW, THE SUBS ARE NOT RECESSED BUT THATS COOL. I CAN LIVE WITH THAT....


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## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

Hey, good to see you on here, I can't wait to get my build thread happening once my parts start flowing in


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Luv it! Very nice glass work! Also great pictures of glassing. Run those Focals active! Looks like you have the hardware to do so.


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## garvinzoom (Mar 23, 2008)

That is some sweet work! 
Do they still manufacture and sell Daihatsu automobiles? I have not seen one of them in quite a while here in the US. I think they sold the model you have and a compact sport utility called the Rocky.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

hey guys, thanks for the comments...

its a great site here, lots of knowledge being shared which is great, and very handy..

im going to run them active eventually, i have the runs of speakere wire there but just not confident that i wont hurt the tweeters or anything like that.. i could run them thru the rear out puts and have time allignment on the tweets and mids, but im dumb when it comes to all that.. any advice on it, feel free to let me know exactly what to do..thanks

the daihatsu company sold a 51% share to toyota in about 98 i think, so they went from the charade to the toyoya starlet, in aus... which is basically the same car imo...

the rocky is sold over here too, and theres a 4x4 version called the feroza which has the 1.5 ltr eng, and is a bit of a battler in the feilds..there not bad cars for the price, but very slow when you load this much weight in to them, hehe..

well, on the install subject, ive played the subs and they sound great, much loader now that the bass has no where to go but up.. now just gotta keep motivated and keep going with it..

thanks again for the comments..


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

its looking awesome man. Im jealous!!!!!


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

elvisjer said:


> its looking awesome man. Im jealous!!!!!


truly mate, i use to feel that way too, but im very persistant and will one day be doing all my own painted and fully customised installs, this is ok, but not anwhere near the plans i have, i just need to design better from the start, then im ok..

i want to go active with this set up. but not sure how to set the mids x-over..high and low pass etc..


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

I wasnt sure how to go active either, so i just got an active xover and went for it! It's been a lot of fun and ive learned a ton. I really wish i had the space, time, and cash to do a cool setup. I live in an apartment and my work area is outdoors...Seattle isn't known for our good weather either


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

yeah, time is definately the hardest thing to come by out of that bunch, you cant buy it and unless your on holidays you sacrifice alot to get it all done...

ive asked all about the active thing and will be giving it a try, i may buy a friends 3sixty.2 when it goes up for sale soon.. then ill have all the tunining i need to do it properly..

later...


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

the 3sixty.2 is a pretty wicked looking piece of equipment! My HU Has time alignment and built in xovers which is pretty rad. Since im running 3-way up front i just use my amp's built in high-pass to split the mids and mid-bass drivers. I really do wish more HUs had the built in capability for running a 3-way up front, but only a couple do and they are BIG $$$.

I dont sleep much and DO have the time to be working on my car which is a good and bad thing. The bad is that usually its raining and i dont have a cover or shelter over my ride so i can't really work on it at all even though i DO have time!

Im going to work on it today though, it appears to be sunny for the time being....


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

i entered the db drag comp at a car show in melbourne australia today and got a best of 139.8 and an average for the day of 137.1, which got me secong place in the street b class...

i tried to get too much out of it and ended up going backwards which stuffed up my average. i just wanted to break the magic 140db then i wouldve been happy...lol

not too bad for 2 sealed 12s and 1000rms...its an sq set up so im not to worried about numbers, and wont be porting the boxes to get more out of it,,


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

Not bad numbers at all! So you run a JL 1000/1 right? If you're running two subs at 2Ω each, then its a total o 4Ω.....so the JL is driving 1000w to each sub still?


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

That little red Daihatsu is a hoot. 

The audio hardware is probably worth more than the car.

A few years ago I saw a Citroen 2CV that a Danish guy found a way to spend 100,000 Euros on (how is that even possible?), and your's is much nicer and with the same WOW factor.

Very irreverent and unique.

Just one technical issue; what kind of output does the alternator provide? It may be the weak link in your installation.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

elvisjer said:


> Not bad numbers at all! So you run a JL 1000/1 right? If you're running two subs at 2Ω each, then its a total o 4Ω.....so the JL is driving 1000w to each sub still?


thanks,

the subs are 300rms each, and are 4ohm svc..wired to 4 or 2ohm,  i cant recall, but the amp is regulated to provide 1000wrms between 1.5ohm to 4ohm and down to 11v so its getting 500wrms each sub anyway at any voltage down to 11v.., 

if its wired to 8ohm then it drops to 250 per sub, but im 99.9% sure its getting 500 each..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

ClassicCoupe said:


> That little red Daihatsu is a hoot.
> 
> The audio hardware is probably worth more than the car.
> 
> ...



very kind words man, 

the car is worth about 5 thousand, market value. 

i payed 3.5 thou'... and the system is about double that in rrp...  so 6-7 thousand-ish, with wiring, battery, amps, subs, splis, and head unit, rear speakers, etc.. plus deadener,vinyl,mdf,perspex,stickers,etc... all of it.. 

and yes very observant of you , the alt' is the weekest link and is 55amp, but i rarely make use of the full 1300wrms i have there, cos the other 300/4 isnt wired as yet.. when it is it will be 1600wrms total and definatly need an alt upgrade.. i try and put it on charge at least once a week for about 5-6 hours and its back to full, from being down around 40% charged, never had voltage or starting issues though so it will do for now..

i need to stop worrying how it looks and concentrate on getting the rest of the products i want.. those will be ....

the focal kbe, k2p bass extension kit for front 3 way set up..

alternator upgrade...to 90 amp hyundai excel alt..

2x screens for rear shelf or head rests up front  
and 1 for front dash pod.. or a psp there..

rear speakers = focal k2p splits for in the C pillars pointing at each opposite headrest in the front,

maybe another sub or diffrent subs, but 2x w6 jl's maybe.. or 3x w3v3 subs, wired to 1.3 ohm

and that will do, 

then ill update the car.

but its fun to have a ****ter i can rip to shreads and not care about the re-sale value...

thanks alot for your reply..


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

It kills me, i paid $14k for my Cruiser slightly used in 2001 (it was a few months old) and i think i could at BEST get say, $6k for it. The cruisers have NO resale value. Thats alright though, i really never plan on selling it anyways. I'll drive it to the ground and hopefully give it to my kids when i have some...wait...that will be MINIMUM 16 years from now...Chrysler that is 20+ years old still running?! HA! Nevermind!


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

haha, i know what your saying exactly... im happy i can just take the rims and stereo off/out of this cxar when it dies and upgrade..

id upgrade now but im still practising on the whole custom install thing... like i said, its good to have a cheap car to rip to shreads, lol..

i dont think it will go much longer to be honest, its on 300thousand km, and its second motor which is at about 150 thousand.. but i have another sitting here ready to go in..

i got my roadworthy inspection and all i need is maintanace things like brakes in front and rear, shocks up front, and a new hatch lid cos i removed the wiper,lol..also a front engine mount..

not bad for an old car, no oil leaks or major stuff t be done..

ive made some progress on the shelf and ill be updating later tonight... not much done tho'.. just rings positioned and base board in place,etc..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well, just a small update, but id like some feedback and some ideas for logos and other ideas to break up the look of it..

the top shelf section has to be removed by pulling it forward from inside the car so nothing from the shelf can over hang from it down on the cover peice across the back as it wont clear the boxes etc....... if that makes sense.. 

anyway, heres the progress i sought of liked the look of it from inside the car beofre, so i may keep it similar to that from the front, but if anyone has other ideas, PLS comment and give me some ideas... thanks guys..



















also, the pic below, if you look on the first few pics of the amp rack youll see these trim peices sought of stuff up the whole look of the amp rack front panel, 

so i plan to join them together and get them trimmed as one peice, it should look alot better and give the amp rack a whole new look.. if any one knows how i should go about this,givcen the fact that its plastic and will flex can they comment below or send me a private message..thanks again..










also just for giggles and entertainment value, heres another charade..it has 2 18 inch subs and 4000wrms, plus 6 batteries and hits 151.6 db... its a 92 charade... its door handles are shaved and the doors open via buttons under the side mirrors, they open the door by actuators/poppers.. hehe.. 18 inch rims where 13s use to be, and no suspension at all.. modified to fit, and it goes to and from shows on a trailer, not registered for road use...




























more updates tomorrow night.. hope to have the shelf glassed up.. hope too..hehe


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## elvisjer (May 13, 2008)

Id say keep it clean and logo free IMO. Its looking amazing!!!


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thanks for the comments mate, i had alot of friends say the same thing too me, i think its a case of less is more thinking....you know?

anyway, i have to fill edges where the shelf meets the top of the box cover so it looks like one continuous peice, then work on the logo for the centre..
it will look very similar to before from inside the car, im just really undecided about the back section..

heres some pics.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

sorry about the double up on pics, i should have just added the glassed ones.. but heres how it sits now..










in the pic below, i screwed the base board to a thicker board while it dried, cos the last time i did this, it warped upwards at each end...only a little bit, but still its not to hard to screw it down and avoid it this time..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thought it was time to update the thread again, ive done abit since last time..

ive undercoated the sub box cover, moulded some down lights and a logo mounting plate into the hatch lid, got some visor screens for the car... but they will be getting modified to fit the rear shelf and ill have to thikn about where the other one is going to go... i had them given to me, so i couldnt exactly refuse them,, they are a touch to big for my little car...lol so that is the main reason why im not using them as visor screens..

the down lights work well, but one has damaged pins so ill have to replace it and then take a new pic with both lights on..

ive ordered an ALPINE D106E single din screen.. and the h701 processor to run the 5.1 surround set up.. so once that goes in, ill get busy with the dash pod and mounting the largest screen possible into the passenger side of it..

i have a 4 peice, under car neon light set going on, for show purposes, its multi colored and has alot of features for how it flashes etc.. also i got a new spoiler/wing for the tailgate, it has a brake light in it, and it dosent vinrate like the last one did so thats perfect cos i hate noises like that..

well here are some pics, ill update again when i have more news on the head unit upgrade and neons under neath are fitted.. ive also posted some pics of work ive done for freinds over the last few weeks aswell... just for anyone thats interested to see.....

BRAD......










http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq7/juke-
boxxx/SHELFFORSALEPICS187.jpg


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

thats nice! love the new FOCAl Kev Tweeter!!


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## SQCherokee (Mar 5, 2008)

so if you have a bulb burn out in your tail light how do you change it?


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

SQCherokee said:


> so if you have a bulb burn out in your tail light how do you change it?


the tail lights have screws on the out side.. thats the way they are designed, remove the screws and the tail light comes froward, change the bulbs and put it back in.. you can actually see the screws in the pics...

i dont have to take the whole sub box cover off to do it... even if i did, its no different then unscrewing to subs,, then that cover slides out... just like some one removing there box to access a spare tyre, etc..

theres really no that much involved in removing the whole install actually.. its 5 peices.. a few screws and a couple bolts holding the boxes down and amp rack together..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

ive just got hold of my first in car dvd player... its an alpine iva-d106e single din, with detachable face..

also fot the h701 proccesor and rux-c701 ,which is the control unit for the processor.. most of the features and accessible by the screen but a few things can only be done thru the control unit,so thats why i have both installed...



















in the pic below you can see a cut out in the dashboard, there is a playstation 2(ps2) getting put there.. ill use cordless remotes and have them stored in the glove box..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

this is the control unit for the processor/eq....

its got 31 band eq on each speaker.. 8channel time alignment.. you can use time allignment on the teetwer and mid, its got 10band eq on the subs... 
has too many features to mention basically.










i did a little bit more sound deadening, just some spots i left out when i ran out of deadener when doing the car the first time.. i also had to rip out the material under the carpet last winter when it got wet.. so ive replaced that aswell.. it made a bit of diffrence to the road noise coming into the car...



















i also finished painting those pods for a freind.. they are not in 2pac paint or anything, so there not really flash, they are the color of the interior panels in his van, and look pretty good fitted.. i'll add some pics of it soon.. they are mounted and running, i just dont have any pics yet..



















thanks for looking..

BRAD..............


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well, a little update for now... no pics as yet..

ive instaled the dash board pod with centre channel (focal kp165) two temp gauges for amps, stinger volt meter and added a 7inch screen on the passenger side of the pod.. it sits just above the glove box....

ive completed the sound deadening of the entire car, incuding adding underlay over the whole cars floor and firewall..

ive purchased another two sets of focal speakers.. k2p for the front, and kp for the centre channel....the original front speakers are now going into the rear of the car for the surround sound set up....

ive bough another 300/4 jl audio amp to bridge two of the ch for 150rms to the centre ch of the surround, and 2 ch will go un used for now..

i completed another install on a merc van, with 6x12inch w6's... its got a temp wall set up, and it hit 150.5 on the term lab at a sanctioned db drag event... the front speakers are two sets of focal four inch splits on the dash.. and morel 9 inch midbass in the doors.. two kicker zk650.4 amps for the speakers, and a kicker 2500.1 for the subs..

the box was tuned to 34 hz and is for daily use, i will add pics of it very soon.. or at least add a link to it on another site..

thanks for looking.. i will load pics to photobucket and up load them here very soon..

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

heres the pics of what i mentioned above this afternoon..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

2 new sets of focals for the centre and rear speakers in the car... the pod has since had the centre channel installed.. i just had an old pioneer speaker grille covering the whole until i put the speaker in..

the deadener is now totally, 100% covered the whole car, top to bottom, roof and all... even some deadener on the outer side of the firewall, and in the wiper motor channel up front of the bonnet where i couldnt reach the fire wall inside.. ive also taken the front gaurds off, and added some dynamatt to there aswell, because i couldnt reach that area due to the kick panels having layers of structural framing etc, si iwent to the outside to reach it, the stuffed foam inside the gaps in the car... over all, the car sounds like a bloody merc.. the doors just thud when closed, sure the weight is alot, but the over all sound compared to before is like sitting in the car with the engine off, even at 100km on the freeway..





























new 300/4 for the centre ch.. i will run this with ch1/2 bridged for 150rms to the centre, and ch 3/4 will go unused.. expensive way to run the centre, but its all the same amplification now, so im happy with that..










not sure if ive added this, if so i will remove this pic, but i bought an 120gb ipod classic to store all my movies and movie clips on for car show purposes.. i can make a play list and not have to touch it during the day..











well thats all for now, will post pics and give a reveiw when ive put the shelf and rear speakers in... so far the centre ch has improved the dvd watching ten fold... its so mad watching movies in there now, the thumping bass and screen at eye level when in the passenger seat sends you into another world.. best results are obviously at night, parked... it really is a good sound, and good experience.. i cant wait for the rear speakers to go in aswell...

IF YOU'VE NOTICED THE SCREENS MOUNTING IS TO LARGE, ITS BECAUSE IVE LEFT IT 2CM TOO BIG ALL ROUND, BECAUSE I HAVE A 10INCH SCREEN GOING IN THERE, SO I WILL JUST ROUTER THAT IN LATER AND NOT NEED TO CHANGE ANY HTING ELSE ABOUT THE SIZE OR SHAPE OF IT..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

anyone ever done a surround system in a car.. id like some advice on tuning the centre ch.. both for the surround its self, and to be used as a centre ch for day to day use...

also, just asking something to varify what ive been told, on the h701 alpine processor.. there are two rca inptus.. one is marked sub l, and the other is marked sub/r or centre..

whe using it as a centre ch you turn the centre ch on via the head unit... when no centre is used, you plug both sub amp racs into the left and right inputs and run it as a normal...
my question is, does the centre need both left and right info, where by id add splitters to the rca reducing it back to one male and input that to the processor, and the same with the sub rcas, when only using one input of the processor do i use splitters to get both left right signal info and feed it into the one input on the processor...

thanks for any advice you can offer..

also any advice with regards to speaker placemtn for rears.. this is more to do with the surround effect, should they be faced forward, up... does much info come thru the rear channels of 5.1??

thanks for anything you can add that may be of help to me..

BRAD.....


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

NO ONE KNOWS THE ANSWER TO WHAT IVE ASKED IN THE POST BEFORE THIS ONE?


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

jukebox said:


> my question is, does the centre need both left and right info, where by id add splitters to the rca reducing it back to one male and input that to the processor, and the same with the sub rcas, when only using one input of the processor do i use splitters to get both left right signal info and feed it into the one input on the processor...
> 
> thanks for any advice you can offer..


Brad,

Our equipment is scarily alike. 

I run an Alpine IVA-D310, the PXA-H701, iPod interface, JL Audio amps (2x 300/4, 500/1) and subs (2x 10W6V2). I run MB Quart speakers, though .

And, yeah, your steering wheel is on the wrong side....

I don't run a center speaker in my car, but when I was checking into it, I ran into issues with amplifiers. There aren't too many good, full-range single channel amps out there. They're all intended for subwoofers and mostly class D with limited frequency range. 
With multichannel amps, you run into the issues you've raised. I thought I had a solution by running a splitter RCA cable and use both left and right channels to run a coax center speaker bi-amped. Haven't actually tried it so your mileage may vary.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

haha, they are scarily alike, i agree..

im running a third 300/4 now, bridged to get the 150rms like the front and rears.. ive added splitter to the amp end of the rcas and fed one input of the h701 centre and done the same, on the mono block.. splitters and one input to the sub input of the processor.. so it should be fine, its getting both left and right in both inputs, which it needs im lead to beleive..

the centre ch makes a huge diffrnce to the staging when you take the time to tune it right,and blend it well with the l/f channels... 

i just yesterday had it all tuned on an rta, it was a huge improvement..

im stoked with it at the moment, thanks for the comment..

BRAD...


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thining of using the remainin two channels that are not being used on the 300/4 centre ch amp to run the tweeters seperately.... i think 75rms is far too much though, but im not sure how they will go if i set the gain with a volt meter, cos on the manual, it says if i set the gain to xxxv it produces xxxrms, and the higher you go, the more power it produces...

now i know gain is not a power knob, but this has me puzzled, it because the jl amps are regualted..

any info to help out would be great, thanks......


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## ClassicCoupe (Aug 7, 2008)

jukebox said:


> thining of using the remainin two channels that are not being used on the 300/4 centre ch amp to run the tweeters seperately.... i think 75rms is far too much though, but im not sure how they will go if i set the gain with a volt meter, cos on the manual, it says if i set the gain to xxxv it produces xxxrms, and the higher you go, the more power it produces...
> 
> now i know gain is not a power knob, but this has me puzzled, it because the jl amps are regualted..
> 
> any info to help out would be great, thanks......


Yeah, now I remember one of my reservations about the center channel method I suggested. :blush:

Sending the center channel signal from the PXA-H701 through a splitter RCA to stereo inputs on an amplifier, you'll of course get identical signals from the Left and Right outputs, which solves the unbalanced load issue at the amp.

However, using this set-up to feed the Left channel to, say, the tweeter, and the Right channel to the mid-range does create a power handling issue you can't solve with the gains setting, which affects both Left and Right channels. 

As a precaution I'd be very careful when setting the gains and the volume for the center channel to avoid frying too many tweeters.

If anyone has a better solution, I'd be interested in hearing about it.


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

if your gonna do that, maybe as i stated in my thread about tweeter powering, use the cross over to obsorb some of the power, but i still dont think this would help.. youd need a better solution..

hhmmm, good question, but considering my midrange and tweeter for the centre are right next to each other, i have no issues with time allignment for that ch.. so i dont need to worry there.. i only want the active set up on the l/r mid and tweeter..

ill be adding some w6s soon, and another 1000/1 to this set up for some added boom when i feel the urge.. best so far was 139.8, thats not bad for 1000rms and two sealed w3s i suppose..

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

i attended an sq comp oday , i never entered my car in it, but they had free spl metering with a term lab and this install hit 139.2...

not too bad for 1000rms and 2 sealed 12inch w3 jl subs... the subs are not known for there excursion or spl abilities so im happy with that...

i think i'll crack the 140db mark when igo too w6 12s and 1000rms on each sub... same boxes though..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

heres a little update on the install... i wasnt totally happy with the shape and style of the rear shelf i had made previously.. mainly the height and angle of the mids.. the new shelf sits about 3cm lower at the back of the back of the speaker ring, so the speaker actually fires upwards, and will be heard from the rear better when the hatch isopen and on display... the speaker is also positioned in such a way that it is more visable from the rear with out actually tilting it that way... ive acheived this by firing the mid across the car more, and as mentioned, lowered the angle it was on to fire upward more..

also, the screen im fitting i had planned to just cut the rectangle out of the fibreglass, but instead ive framed it up after cutting the casing of the screen... the screen was from the sunvisor monitors i had, they were a little large to go up front and just didnt look right, and were uncomfortable to watch anyway.. so i cut it up, made the mdf frame and attached the cut down casing to be fibre glasses in place so i could keep the full functions of the buttons on the front panel... (incase i ever lost the remote to turn it on/off etc)










in the pic above, the backing will be secured in place with a mdf panel, with some holes drilled for cool air to get in, and heat to get out,etc...

some more pics of the screen going in and how..



















pic below = the frame after fleecing and some resin coats.. i always put a couple of resin coats to build some strength so the material does not sag under the weight of the wet matting...














































pic below is of the rear shelf looking from the back seat down onto it, the shape ive tried to create is a flowing rounded shelf with a cave type shape for the bass to load up in, and a smooth suface for the sound to roll out of..










i may, load the speakers and screen in for a test run when i run the wiring during this week, if i do, i'll add a pic of it with the screen on and the shelf maybe under coated...

thanks for looking, more pics and updates to come once its painted and wired up..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

some more framing pics..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

been a whille since i updated this, 
so heres some pics and info on lastest wok.. 

2nd battery between sub boxes.. optima d51a... 75ah, 1125 cca.



















rear shelf has had the focal x-over mounted into it, and the screen finished off.. its been sanded and ready for trimming..










here it is installed.. the shelf still needs to be trimmed of course.. there is red pipping going around the egde where the shelf and cover meet...
its still not finished as i plan on doing a painted silver (like the dash peices) over the screen section and around the x-overs and dropping back down between the subs with a jl audio logo between them...










downlights on, roof leds shinning onto rear speakers..



















dashboard is almost finished... the location inder the head unit where there is wirinf showing is where the ps2 will be going, its a silver playstation and fits in nicely with the colours of the dash etc.. will be added very soon..










still gotta make a trim panel around the bottom of the dash, which is like an extension of the centre console to house the centre ch x-over and front plits x-overs.. these will be trimmed in grey to match the dash, with the x-overs flush mounted with led to illuminate them at night..



















the engne bay battery has had an earth kit added to it.. im not sure if this is in the gallery already.. if it is, ignore this,lol..

but ive added stinger hpm series 0g wiring thru the car, and used the aerpro stuff for earth cables front and rear... the earth kit goes to the fuel injection earth location, the inlet manifold, the firewall, and the stut tops.. there is still 1 0g wire to run out of the distro block to the engine itself.. a single short run of 0g to the chassis and engine.. it made abit of diffrrence to voltage stability in my oppinion, and also noticably increase throttle response of the car thru out the rev range.. no b/s... i was surprised..










thats all for now.. thanks for looking...

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

thats all for my car..

but i have an update on the van install i was doing.. ive finished the twin midbass dors, they have been fully retrimmed, and have a set of focal midbass expansion kit drivers each door.. it sounds awesome..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

oh, another thing i bought for my car, was a stinger amperage and voltage meter/fuse holder for the rear of the car because i needed a fuse after the 2nd battery... i took out the 1 farad cap that was there and put it between the amps... the wire mesh you can see behind it is where the exhaust fans are located..




























also, i think you might find the painted trim peice around the screen on the dash is diffrent from the last update, also the trim peice around the gear selector has been painted aswell..

also ive modified the head unit mounting location from double din to single din.. i might grab some pics of that process now and put them up too..

also, i beleive the sports steering wheel being added is diffrent from the last update....


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

original double din.. ive used a die grinder to scuff the plastic up, remove the paint etc.. and drillled holes all around the edge where the glassing will be done..










i drilled holes.. used making tape all over the front panel to keep the matting flat and to the same shape as the head unit facia, where it tapers off towards the bottom.... 










cut out for head unit/dvd player 










i added some masing tape around the orignal cradle of the headunit and psotioned it where i wanted.. then added fibreglass reinforced filler to get the shape to bring the head unit up level and the shaped it up with the die grinder...



















some spray putty and block sanding later and its ready for top coating of silver plastic paint..










painted with head unit mounted... there is obviously some things missing like the vent, and the heater control panel showing the button functions etc... but you get the idea of what it looks like finished.. 


in the pic below you can see some wiring below the head unit.. this location is where the ps2 will be placed..










if you look back at some interior pics youll see that the head unit when flipped open clears the heater controls and vents now by about 20mm.. it use to hit the vents, and wasnt able to open to its full tilt... also it wasnt able to clip back into its cradle completely as it was too far back to allow it to open any further then 30 degrees.. obviously not enough,lol..


thanks for looking..

BRAD..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

ooops.. update with pics coming. need to edit the links..


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

AHHHHHHHHHHH, it didnt work AGAIN..

any ways, ive added some head rest screens, hooked up the rear shelf screen and got some other stuff planned..

i'll load the pics to photo bucket tomorrow and update this thread then...


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## jukebox (Sep 27, 2008)

well guys.. my cars slowly getting finished... im now saving for a GT 2002 model subaru forester.. its a turbo 2ltr if you dont know.. i will be doing a full custom install in it, but now i have all the bits and peices i need to fit, it wont take me so long.. haha..

hope you like these pics, let me know what you honestly think pls.. some guys are telling me to turbo this car, and paint it.. lower it and fit better rims, but i think its time to upgrade... i have put alot of work into this, but that is half the fuin of it and i dont mind starting al over again.. its a labour of love really.. 

cheers..

BRAD..


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