# Door panels are rattling. Looking for a cheap, quick fix.



## hans030390 (Jun 23, 2008)

My '95 Civic's (sedan) door panels rattle a little bit when certain (usually lower) frequencies are played. They do have sound deadening material on then (pretty thin). The tweeters were installed in there, and the wires from those go into the doors themselves to my crossovers in back.

I'm not sure if it's just that my door panels aren't on REAL tight, the wires rattling just enough, or the panels themselves resonating. It's very hard to tell, as sometimes a little bit of pressure (at almost any point in the door panel) will mostly stop the rattling. Sometimes not, though.

So, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to find a way to make the wires silent if they move (they hang pretty free...I couldn't do much else). I'm not exactly sure what to do there, though.

Also, for the door panels, I'm wondering if some sort of foam material would be beneficial? Maybe like a sheet cut to fit in there? Some sort of foam tape? Spray foam? I'm pretty clueless here.

I'll be going to college again in a few weeks here, and want whatever I do to last me, whether that be things not "deteriorating", falling apart/falling off, etc. (I can't do any work down there on the car). I am, however, hoping it can be something cheap, quick, and easy. Thanks!


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## jets88 (May 12, 2008)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio/62857-eliminating-plastic-rattle.html


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## Andy Jones (May 12, 2006)

Either add weight, isolate, or cover it up with foam to absorb the rattle. 

No one can tell you which will work until you determine exactly what is making the noise.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Leave the panels off


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

thin layer of liquid nails and or spray foam in a can. wear gloves and eye mask for spray foam.


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## Andy Jones (May 12, 2006)

^and make sure you REALLY like those speakers because getting back into that door panel is going to be VERY expensive.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

goodstuff said:


> thin layer of *liquid nails* and or spray foam in a can. wear gloves and eye mask for spray foam.





Andy Jones said:


> ^and make sure you REALLY like those speakers because getting back into that door panel is going to be VERY expensive.


^^^*BwaHaha* . . .

and. I thought I was mean


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Raise the HPF on your mids or increase the slope.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Remove your door panel. glue a large piece of open cell foam about 1/2" thick to the back of the panel. (You want something that compresses quite a bit)
Then, wrap the free wires in the door in some thin foam so that they wont make noise rattling around in the door. Try putting the panlel back on and see what you get.
After that you can try to isolate other pieces, like door handle, plastic door pieces, etc that might need a little mass added, or foam to decouple them.


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## hans030390 (Jun 23, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Remove your door panel. glue a large piece of open cell foam about 1/2" thick to the back of the panel. (You want something that compresses quite a bit)
> Then, wrap the free wires in the door in some thin foam so that they wont make noise rattling around in the door. Try putting the panlel back on and see what you get.
> After that you can try to isolate other pieces, like door handle, plastic door pieces, etc that might need a little mass added, or foam to decouple them.


This sounds like the best option so far. Where can I get foam like this? Also, what sort of glue works best for this?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Try Foam by Mail, foam products, cushions, mattresses, pillows, seats, sound proofing, memory foams, mattress, pillow,

You can use the "speaker foam" or you can use the neoprene closed cell foam which will also provide a noise barrier. Thats probably what I would use. 3/8" Neoprene.

You can use the 3M spray adhesive (high grade designed for foams and rubber) or you can use contact cement. The spray adhesive would be the easier route.


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