# 2012 Mustang Convertible - Budget Build



## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Even though my build is pretty basic compared to many around here, I decided to start a build log in case others with the same car are searching for info. I'm just getting the thread started tonight but I'll update it as I go, and especially try to include anything specific to the car I had to search for or figure out.

Here's the car.











Here's my power distribution stuff after I soldered lugs on the short piece of 0 gauge and the two 4 gauge ground cables. I'm going with a 250 Amp fuse, 11 inches from the battery, even though the 0 gauge welding cable is rated for over 300 amps. I'm fusing the two 4 gauge runs to my two amplifiers at 100 amps each.












The crazy stock positive battery terminal gave me an easy place to attach my soldered on ring lug.











Here's the battery cable installed, with the Streetwires ANL fuse holder.











I didn't decide to start taking pictures until I had Dynamat installed in my trunk and covered up with foam. Here you can see the passenger side floor of the car, after I had installed a little Stinger Roadkill. There is actually quite a bit of epoxy applied in various areas from the factory. Seems obvious that it's there for vibration damping.











Here is all the Stinger Roadkill I applied to the passenger side floor. The drivers side ended up with about the same amount, but in slightly different areas.











Double layer of foam applied over pretty much the entire floor. The foam came from Home Depot and is made to go under laminate flooring.











And a few pieces of DB-3, also from Home Depot. It's going to be interesting to see how this works, since it isn't as flexible as what is recommended by Don at Sound Deadener Showdown. Hopefully this won't turn out to be an example of what not to do with your install noise treatment.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

My equipment list.

Stock head unit. Keeping because I like the Sync and other features.

AudioControl EQS 

PPI 900.4 amp to run 5X7 front door speakers and 8" mid bass in each door.

PPI 1000.1 to power sub

Image Dynamics IDQ12V3 D4

ZEnclosures enclosure for Mustang convertible trunk

Shelby/Kicker 8" subs in factory door mounts, used as mid bass.

Polk Audio DB571 5X7 coax in each door. These were purchased when I was only planning to replace the door speakers and add a subwoofer to my trunk. It's pretty likely that they will be replaced with a component set within a month or so.

Here's what I'm starting with.











And here is where I'm going.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Looking nice and clean! 

So you preffered to put more CLD material and skip the MLV, but using home depot type of CCF or foam floor underlayment and add DB3 as a substitute for MLV.

Let us know how that works. Was it the MLV cost and shipping that made you go that path? or you think the DB3 can block noise enough to avoid additional weight on the car?


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Watching this. I have a '13 GT and I haven't fully decided on the sound deadening yet for it. I have most of the components, but need to finish the planning before I get started.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Alrojoca said:


> Looking nice and clean!
> 
> So you preffered to put more CLD material and skip the MLV, but using home depot type of CCF or foam floor underlayment and add DB3 as a substitute for MLV.
> 
> Let us know how that works. Was it the MLV cost and shipping that made you go that path? or you think the DB3 can block noise enough to avoid additional weight on the car?


I went this route mostly because of shipping costs for the MLV. But there was also a time factor as I'm trying to get this done by Memorial Day weekend.

Adding weight to a Mustang does cause me a bit of pain as well.

I read about the DB-3 here on DIYMA and decided to give it a shot. I think it's going to work great on the floor of the car but I'm not quite so sure about my trunk and under the back seat. I may still end up ordering some MLV for those areas and my doors.


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

iScream said:


> I went this route mostly because of shipping costs for the MLV. But there was also a time factor as I'm trying to get this done by Memorial Day weekend.
> 
> Adding weight to a Mustang does cause me a bit of pain as well.
> 
> I read about the DB-3 here on DIYMA and decided to give it a shot. I think it's going to work great on the floor of the car but I'm not quite so sure about my trunk and under the back seat. I may still end up ordering some MLV for those areas and my doors.


Thanks!
Did you use that Black Jack foam from HD?

I searched, searched and searched here. I saw nothing about the DB-3 only a 7 page thread ABOUT THE DB-4 where a piece was actually tested by Don saying it was actually 1lb/sf, not a flexible and had some felt material on one side and smelled like asphalt. 

Is the DB3 another version of the DB-4 in smaller rolls?

Looking at the reviews on the DB-3 from HD site, one guy says the it is also a 1lb/sf, sold on 8 ft rolls, but nothing here on the forum about the DB-3. You have a link for the DB-3 on this forum?

You should check out your local major floor carpet places, some have MLV, also the places that specialized in blocking sound in homes, they use it and I am sure some will sell it to the public. 

I did a rough over estimated measurement, I may need close to 70 sq foot to do all 4 doors and floors.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Alrojoca said:


> Thanks!
> Did you use that Black Jack foam from HD?
> 
> I searched, searched and searched here. I saw nothing about the DB-3 only a 7 page thread ABOUT THE DB-4 where a piece was actually tested by Don saying it was actually 1lb/sf, not a flexible and had some felt material on one side and smelled like asphalt.
> ...


Yes on the Black Jack foam.

I really don't remember where I saw the DB-3 on here. I was probably searching different sound deadening terms and ran across it that way. I did read the big thread you're talking about and the DB-3 is mentioned in there.

FYI, the DB-3 is .75 pounds per square foot rather than 1 pound. And it's a long way from being limp.

I've still got half my interior trim out of the car so I can't say yet what my noise reduction results will be. I finally got all my stuff temp wired Sunday evening and tested to be sure it works so I can start putting it back together.

I was down in Huntsville, doing Mothers Day duty, over the weekend and my step dad had some heavy, half inch thick fabric up in the attic, left over from putting down some kind of flooring in my little brothers house. I snagged about 15 square feet, which I plan to use for lining some of the plastic interior trim panels before I put them back on.

My goal with the sound treatment I'm doing was not to equal the results Don from SDS can provide. I know I won't be getting the results he does with all the testing he did to settle on the products he sells or recommends.

My goal was to spend a couple hundred bucks and get a noticeable improvement over stock. At this point, my goal has become kinda blurred and I may end up wishing I had just invested more up front on proven solutions.

I sure wish I had pulled out my SPL meter and taken some actual measurements before starting any of this.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Pulled one of my door panels off for the first time this evening. I did a lot of reading about Mustang Shaker 500 upgrades, on Mustang forums rather than audio forums, but I had no idea that my door panels have built in enclosures for the 8" subs. While that was a surprise, the fact that the enclosures are made from fairly thin plastic wasn't so surprising. 

This throws a wrench into the gears of my noise treatment plans. The molded plastic enclosure extends into the cutouts in the inner door sheet metal, almost back to the brackets holding the window glass. This means there won't be any sealing off holes in the sheet metal with flat pieces of metal, plastic cutting board, or anything else. But, since I'm planning to use the 8" "subs", which have their own enclosure, more as mid bass drivers, I'm not sure it matters so much that the inner door sheet metal won't be sealed off.

I'm pretty glad that I went with the Shelby/Kicker replacements for my 8" door drivers now though. They are supposedly spec'ed specifically for the Mustang door panels. I'm gonna stick a little Dynamat to the molded enclosure before I put the panel back on. I think I'll shoot an email to kicker as well, to see if they recommend using a bit of the acousta-stuf I'm gonna have left over from my 12" sub in the plastic enclosure.

Here's a back side view of the enclosure molded into the passenger door panel.









Close up of Kicker installed in my door panel.









Wider view of door panel with new driver installed.









And the new grill installed. The Kickers come with a spacer that goes behind them and the new grills. The whole thing ends up protruding about one additional inch out of the door panel, compared to stock.


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## cerwinvega_fan (Nov 9, 2010)

Love that blue on your car.
Im tuned in.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Got my speaker wires run into the doors yesterday, and the door speakers installed. Also applied a fair amount of Dynamat/Stinger to the inner door shells.

I didn't do any other noise treatment to the doors though. I'm definitely going to get some nicer speakers to replace the Polk 5X7 coax set I installed. I played a few songs last night with the 8" door subs running roughly 20 - 200Hz and the Polks running roughly 200Hz up.

Those 8" Kickers hit pretty damn hard, and I haven't even installed the sub yet. The Polks get LOUD, and sound much better than my stock speakers, but they aren't giving the sound I want.

Since the door panels have built in enclosures, I had to use a disconnect for the speakers wires.
Here's a great thread with recommendations for connectors


I ended up using the ones below.












Vibration damping applied to passenger door. I didn't go for complete coverage but stuck on a double layer in several places.











Passenger door with coax installed, just before putting the door panel back on.











I covered more of the drivers door with Dynamat and just about all of it is a double layer.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Did you put any on the door panel itself? I've been having some rattling on the passenger side panel with the stock speakers. I was also thinking of doing some on the enclosure in the door panel to help with any vibration there.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

crx4luke said:


> Did you put any on the door panel itself? I've been having some rattling on the passenger side panel with the stock speakers. I was also thinking of doing some on the enclosure in the door panel to help with any vibration there.


I used just a little on the back of the built in enclosure. I'm going to do more to the doors but I'm out of time before my upcoming trip. Once I figure out what speakers I want to get to replace the Polks, I'm going to try to get some foam/MLV in there.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Got my sub mounted in the enclosure tonight and hooked it up with the PPI 1000.1 for a few minutes. Sounds decent but I obviously have some work to do with crossover points, levels and the basic EQ ability I get from the AudioControl EQS.

I've had this drill jig for about 15 years and don't even remember where I got it. I took a piece of scrap wood and drilled a 1.5" hole so I could see the marks for the sub mounting screws and have a stable platform for the jig.











Brass threaded inserts were easy to put in straight with the t-handle tool I picked up for $5 at Woodcraft.











I emailed Image Dynamics and they recommended 1.5 pounds of Acousta-Stuf for my 0.9 cubic foot (gross) sealed enclosure. And they specifically suggested using the name brand filler.











IDQ12V3 D4 mounted with 10/24 allen head screws.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

After busting my butt to get everything running before the holiday weekend, the center section of my IDQ12 detached from the rest of the cone. The glue they used just let go. 

I'm not sure yet if running it like that for a while did other damage to the sub or not. I'm hoping I can contact someone at Image Dynamics tomorrow and see if they will suggest some glue or epoxy from Home Depot just to get me through the weekend. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Didn't realize so much time passed since I updated this. 

That last post was made from Ashville, North Carolina and I wasn't very happy. I knew I hadn't mistreated the sub to make the dustcover come off. 

But, once I got back home, Sonic was great and they were going to give me credit for the cost of the sub. After looking at the cost to ship it back to them, and their policy of charging me for the original free shipping, I decided to keep it and I glued the dust cover back on. The sub has been working great for the last couple weeks.

I decided to replace the Audio Control EQS with an actual processor. After spending a bunch of time reading, I decided to go with the RF 3sixty.3. I've had it installed for a week now and I'm very glad I added the DSP. The EQS is a nice piece of equipment but it just didn't fit in with my 3 way front stage, mostly because of the Shaker 500 head unit. 

With the 3sixty.3, a calibrated microphone, and REW, I think I'm now getting about all these cheap speakers have to offer. These Shelby Kicker 8's are extremely disappointing. Kicker says the frequency response is 20Hz to 200Hz so I started with them running 65Hz to 180Hz. That didn't work very well so I kept moving the crossover point down until I hit 135Hz, which is where I'm leaving them. Basically these things have the frequency response of a subwoofer but they don't have the excursion of a real sub.

But I do have bass. I downloaded The Sheffield Lab Drum and Track Disc to my iPhone and streamed it over Bluetooth. I wasn't expecting much but ended up being surprised at how good it sounded. I actually found myself not focusing on the performance of my speakers and just enjoying the pounding of the drum solo. It hit hard and it wasn't just the low frequencies from my sub. The only problem was the snare drum volume was a little low. I may try to tweak that but, otherwise, I'm just going to keep what I've got until I get a full set of speakers for the front stage.

I bought a pair of ScanSpeak R3004 tweeters and 10F midrange. I'm probably going to order a set of real midbass drivers before the end of this weekend.

And, so far, I'm pretty happy with the noise treatment I did.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I decided to get adventurous and mod my door panels. After studying my kick panels and other common install areas, I really don't like anything other than basically the stock location for the 5X7 coax. So I'm going to build a fiberglass enclosure to get my midrange and tweeters mounted pretty close to on axis.

The stock speaker grill and surrounding area have an indented line going all the way around, which gives me a good place to cut then join my new enclosures.




Here's what it looks like stock. You can see that only the holes in front of the 5X7 actually go through the panel.










I spent a good bit of time getting a paper template cut just right to the width of the grill area.




















Then I taped together a cardboard template to see how I can position the mid and tweeter and how deep I can sink them into the enclosure at the angle I want.












It's hard to tell in these pics but I ended up with the mid at about 43 degrees toward me and 5 or so upward. The tweeter is going to be pretty close to those angles. This has both drivers on both sides of the car aimed in between the driver and passenger seat headrests.





















And I already took the plunge and cut one panel. It still needs a bit of fine trimming but it looks pretty darn clean overall. Haven't decided if I'm going to cut it all the way to the front of the panel or not.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Sure wish I could edit the original post starting this thread. I've done some upgrading so below is an updated diagram.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I made decent progress on my door enclosures this weekend. Picked up an old Dremel scroll saw off Craigslist and had to learn how to set it up.

After watching a bunch of Youtube videos on fiberglass forming, I decided to build a plug for each door, so I can duplicate the back side of the enclosure as many times as I want. Gives me options if I want to change the position of my mid and tweeter and also reduces the recovery effort if I screw something up on the front side of the enclosure.



Started with a 24" X 48" piece of 1/4" MDF. Divided into sections a little bigger than my pattern.











Cut several panels with a circular saw.











Cutting out a section with a scroll saw, to form the back of one plug.











Bunch of clamps and 90 degree block while gluing on sides of panel.











One of the plugs after using bondo to build it out right to the edge of the door panel cutout. Still needs a few little spots filled.











Here you can see the plug fitted into the door panel cutout. Things are so tight that I'm gonna have to create my mold and then use it to create a glass enclosure back before I decide on exactly where the mid and tweet will go. The sides of the plug are over 3/8" with the bondo built up but the fiberglass version will be more like 1/8" and I need that space to keep the tweeter from blocking the mid of the other way around.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I'm liking the progress. I have one of those scroll saws too. I absolutely love it. I can get it out, use it, and put it up in no time at all. It's really accurate too, way more so than a hand held jig saw. 

The panel looks good so far. I still haven't figured out if I want to go door panel, or pillars for my mid and tweets yet, so I'll be watching yours to see how it turns out.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

crx4luke said:


> I'm liking the progress. I have one of those scroll saws too. I absolutely love it. I can get it out, use it, and put it up in no time at all. It's really accurate too, way more so than a hand held jig saw.
> 
> The panel looks good so far. I still haven't figured out if I want to go door panel, or pillars for my mid and tweets yet, so I'll be watching yours to see how it turns out.


This is my first scroll saw so I got better with it as I went along. It was great for cutting my foam to the shapes I needed as well. I found last night that I'm going to need to make a mounting ring for the Dayton RS225 set I picked up, to get them in the factory door enclosures. Luckily the magnet just barely fits down in there, after I took the rubber piece off the outside of it.

I was planning to build a real simple enclosure to try my kick panels but, after sitting in the car looking at the angles and stuff in the way, I decided not to bother.

I also thought about mounting the tweeters in the little triangular panels by the mirrors, but there's quite a bit of turbulence in that area when the top is down and that didn't seem good for a tweeter.

So, I'm gonna make the mid and tweeter both work in that door panel, if there is any way possible. It looks like I probably have two arrangements that will work, once I get a fiberglass shell, with much thinner side walls, made. The 3SIXTY.3 having independent time alignment, level adjustment, crossover points and 31 band PEQ for each driver is going to be very helpful.

That Scan Speak 10F looks so tiny in my hand but it seems huge mocking it up on axis in that enclosure. That plywood ring in the last picture actually fits around the outside of the driver, so the mounting will be flush. The outer edge is going to be sanded way down so the overall diameter will be a couple mm less than what you see there.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I was looking at the sail panel too for my tweeter. I just didn't really want the midrange down in the door. I was thinking of pillars, just not sure if I want to chop them up yet.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Sure hope this sounds as nice as it looks.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Mounting the Dayton RS225 into my stock 8" door panel enclosures turned out to be a much bigger pain than I hoped.



Here you can see the stock plastic mount. The RS225 has to be offset toward the bottom a bit for the magnet to go in. Most of the stock ring is about 3/8". There was a slightly wider section on the bottom but I had to trim that plastic. Even without trimming, there just isn't much there to bite into.











I started by cutting a ring out of 1/4" MDF to fit very snugly around the stock plastic.











Then I cut another ring to go on top of that, out of 1/2" plywood. The outer diameter is the same as the MDF ring but the inside cutout is, 7.25", which is what the Dayton needs, but it's offset toward the bottom a bit.











Here's the back of the baffle after gluing the two rings together.











You can kinda see the offset here.











Might be hard to see but I put a 30 degree bevel on the top of the baffle, to make it look a little less clunky. If I decide to stay with the Dayton midbass, I'll probably redo the baffles and flush mount the drivers.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Looking good. I was wondering how those would fit. Those were the other mids I was looking at getting before I got the peerless. Are you planning on doing a grill over the woofers?

Also, where do you plan on putting that amp?


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

If I don't do some kind of grill I'll end up putting a foot through one eventually. Thinking about something simple, maybe held on with magnets.

I'm going to stash the amp in the spare tire well for now, along with the PPI 1000.1 driving my sub. I'd like to keep the PPI pretty much hidden but I might mount the Leviathan in the back of the trunk so I can show it off if I want to but it won't catch too many eyes if I open the trunk to throw in some groceries.

The PPI 900.4 I've got in there right now will go in my wife's car, along with the Audio Control EQS I pulled out a few weeks ago.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I went through a crazy amount of trouble getting a Leviathan. The one pictured above had some blown caps so I ended up sending it back to the seller. The seller was great to deal with but the process of receiving the refund from Paypal and shipping the amp back cost me about 10 days. 

I then ordered a new Leviathan III from Woofers ETC, but they called me the next day to tell me they didn't actually have an amp to ship, even though their web site showed in stock. Turns out that pretty much every dealer lets Zed Audio drop ship amps they sell. I cancelled the Woofers ETC order and placed an order directly with Steve Mantz at Zed.

I finally got my hands on a working Leviathan III last week and got it installed, running the crappy Polk coax and my new Dayton midbass. I was actually pretty surprised to absolutely hear a difference by changing nothing other than the amp. I can hear a few things I couldn't with the PPI, but I'm not ready to say for sure the difference is an improvement. I haven't taken a laptop out yet to measure with REW, so I'm hoping what I hear is a flatter frequency response from the Leviathan.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Between work, family coming into town for a visit and hot, humid weather making it suck to work in the garage, I haven't done much with my doors since installing the Daytons. I had some fiberglass resin from Home Depot so I decided to do a trial run on some rear halves of the enclosures for my mids and tweeters.

I didn't think to take pictures of the forms I created out of pink foam from Home Depot but here are a few shots of the resulting fiberglass enclosure backs. I intended for these to basically be throw away but they came out so solid that I may just use them.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Made some good progress today. Got my baffle for the midrange on the passenger side set at an angle I like and stuck in place with a few spots of hot glue. I made a jig so the drivers side will only take about 30 minutes to set at the same position.


Cut out some nice mounting baffles for my mids and tweeters to get started. First time I've used a Jasper Jig and I decided to only cut a little over half way through the 1/4" MDF, then cut with my scroll saw before finishing up with a flush cut router bit. 

Here are the tweeter baffles after cutting the inner and outer edges with the jig.










After I cut through with the scroll saw.










And here are the finished rings.










I grabbed some paper cylinders from a craft store, brushed a little resin on them, then attached the rings for my midrange.




















Here's the cut cylinder tacked in place with hot glue. After trying a few angles, I settled on 40 degrees and a little rotation up, which aims the mid right in between the front seat head rests.


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## Voorttimies (Mar 19, 2011)

Looking good!


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I'm finally done with the fiberglass work on my door enclosures. I ended up over building the hell out of these things.

I squirted some primer on them tonight, to see how uneven the surface looks and it isn't bad. Still have a bit more filling and sanding to do then I need to decide how I'm going to finish them. Not sure yet if I will use vinyl or paint them or what.

I'm planning to mount them this week, just covered in primer, so I can listen to them while we drive over the holiday weekend.



Here you can see how I glued some stretchy fabric over the front.











Then I screwed down a piece of 1/8" plywood I cut to give me the shape I wanted and clamped the speaker ring contraption down. The plywood also gives me a flat surface for a mounting screw.











Skip ahead a week and I've got the tweeter mounts glassed in and some bondo applied. The holes toward the back are sealed tunnels for the rear mounting screws.












After some rough sanding this evening, I sprayed on a coat of primer to see how things are looking.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Haven't taken any pics since I mounted the pods in my doors but the Scan mids and tweeters sound really good in there.


I'm about to upgrade from my IDQ 12 to this.





















And here is my new subwoofer enclosure. Not quite done with it yet. 











Also got the stuff to try making some molds.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Got the front baffles for my sub enclosure done this weekend. That's the biggest part of the required woodworking. About 60 percent of the bottom will be MDF, along with a little skeleton and some bracing inside. I'm hoping to get the skeleton in place over a couple evenings this week so I can stretch some fabric and layup the fiberglass next weekend.

I started by making a cardboard template of the front shape. My biggest constraint on the size ended up being able to fit the baffle through my trunk opening. Then I cut the shape from one piece of 1/2" MDF with a jigsaw and smoothed it out with the belt sander. After that, I marked the shape into another piece of 1/2" MDF and rough cut that one with the jigsaw. I drilled the pilot hole for the circle jig through both pieces at once so the holes would line up just right.



Here's what I ended up with. It's one inch thick after gluing and clamping the two half inch pieces together. 












This IDMAX sub is so heavy that I didn't like the idea of hanging all that weight off the 1/2" inner panel. So I cut out a ring to reinforce on the inside. Very strong now.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Didn't get much chance to work on car audio stuff this past week but I managed several hours this afternoon. I got my sub enclosure almost ready to start laying up fiberglass.


I'm trying to get at least 1.5 cubes net out of this so I removed the molded carpet section from the right side of the trunk and the enclosure will use up the wasted space behind where the carpet was.






















While most of the frame is 1/2" MDF, I'm using some foam to go around the wheel well and on the very back section to use the available space to the inner side of the quarter panel. I'll shape the foam and cover it with foil and tape to lay fiberglass over it then dig the foam out. 












I still have to stick two more pieces of foam to the back then I can shape all the foam and start laying the fiberglass. I'm going to do one section at a time, starting from the back, so I can get to the inside and make sure I have a really strong bond to the MDF frame.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Looking good. That sub box is coming along nicely.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I've been putting in a bunch of time for a project at work but I managed to spend an hour this evening winding down my brain by working on my enclosure. I already had the foam shaped pretty well so I taped it tonight since the resin would melt it if I applied it directly. 

I stuck the pieces of MDF I had cut out of the back two sections in there, just so I would have a flat surface without messing with stretching cloth. Then I applied a coat of mold release wax to all the tape. 

I plan to layup the fiberglass in three, or maybe even four sections, starting from the back.

On a separate note, I'm pretty damn impressed with the new camera in the iPhone 5S. The lighting in my garage really isn't great but the pics below didn't even need the flash. I thought the cameras in my 3GS and 4S were crap in low light but the new lens really seems to have made an improvement.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I got the hardest part of the fiberglass done. I should have known better than to leave sharp edges but I ended up having trouble getting my second layer to lay down properly. Ended up cutting some parts out and filling with some resin mixed with talc then laying mat on the inside and outside.

The coat of mold wax on the tape worked great so it was really easy to remove the tape and foam. The part I've got done is really solid. Probably about 3/16" thick in the center of the flat panels.


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## Greyhound (Jun 15, 2013)

How is the box coming along? I am getting ready to add a sub to my 13 GT likely an IDmax also, but had not considered doing a fiberglass box yours is looking good. 

With the 3sixty3 do you need to use a "system volume control"? I have a clean sweep and really despise that aspect of it, I am mulling over getting a audio control LCQ1 to replace it and loose the master volume.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I've been putting in way too many hours at work the last couple weeks but I try to spend 30 - 45 minutes every other evening working on the enclosure. It's pretty close to done now, other than deciding how to cover or finish it. Should be running it at the GTG down in Alabama this coming weekend but it will still be bare wood and fiberglass.

Snapped a few pics to show where it is.

I spent a lot of time reinforcing the inside with matt.










Here's the front view.










I can't get it to flex anywhere but I still plan to add one more layer of matt and resin.











I cut in a little inset section for the binding posts. Just did this yesterday so it still needs another layer of matt and some thickened resin for filler.











And the binding posts I got from Parts Express.


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## Greyhound (Jun 15, 2013)

looks great man, I don't think I have the time or patience to build that though I think my building skills top out at building a square box.


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