# DEH-80PRS Questions/Directions, TA, Auto EQ...



## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

I know there's a ton of threads on the 80PRS but even searching thru here & youtube, I cant find clear directions on how to set/run the auto TA & EQ as in step by step??

Plus, without having to open another thread with further questions, I figured id ask them in this thread & kill 2 birds with one stone. 

Im running the 80prs with front JBL MS-62C's & rear P662's in passive & the sound is amazing, BUT, when I play with the audio settings I get confused & have made it sound worse at times & had to go back & reset them. I kinda feel like I need someone to "hold my hand" with these controls cause my last deck simply had bass, treble , & loudness controls so im drawing a blank on how & what these xover points control even in passive mode!! 

I can take a look at the deck & write down which things confuse me & come back to this thread with them but for right now, how do I run the auto TA & EQ?? 

Please & thank u as my old ass is now becoming more & more of an audiophile thru this board & ur help is greatly appreciated!!!


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

Anyone?


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

I don't know that hu, but on the 880prs you turn the HU off, then press and hold the EQ button. The face will open and expose the mic jack. Plug in the mic, position it, then start the process. It'll give a 10 second count down to get out of the car and close the door.


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## sbeezy (Nov 22, 2008)

The auto eq is OK but it isn't very good... it will give you a baseline but its up to you to tune it the rest of the way. Do you have an RTA or any tools to help with tuning?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

gijoe said:


> I don't know that hu, but on the 880prs you turn the HU off, then press and hold the EQ button. The face will open and expose the mic jack. Plug in the mic, position it, then start the process. It'll give a 10 second count down to get out of the car and close the door.


I put that mic right by my headrest correct??

You have to get out of the car for this??


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## sbeezy (Nov 22, 2008)

Hang it ear level on the headrest with a big rubberband

I've gotten out and stayed in it didn't change the t/a eq much.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

sbeezy said:


> The auto eq is OK but it isn't very good... it will give you a baseline but its up to you to tune it the rest of the way. Do you have an RTA or any tools to help with tuning?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


Whats an RTA?? Sorry im still getting used to this "audiophile" type of setup. Right now I have the eq on powerfull & that's all I really understand. When I try to adjust them separately, I don't have the hearing to notice each of the 16 eq settings enough to know if its sounds better or worse... (im 90% deaf in my right ear fyi).


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Real Time Analyzer, not recommending it, just for illustration 

Pocket RTA Spectrum Analyser for the iPhone, Pocket RTA HD for iPad also now available - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOwCKfRdn5k


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=I6MDb-sFLvU&NR=1


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

If you can stay in the car it may make the measurements a bit more accurate. I'd recommend ear plugs though, although you may be able to tolerate it, it is much more pleasant with ear plugs. Also, you would need to stay very still, even rubbing the mic cord could give you bad results. I would suggest getting out of the car and let it do it's thing for a few minutes. 

I agree that the auto calibration isn't perfect, but it does give good results and it's a good place to start (many people are happy enough with the results to leave it alone afterward).

An RTA is a real time analyzer, it measures the frequency response of the sound and can be very useful for tuning, but it really isn't needed unless you are serious about the hobby, plus, your ears can get you 90% of the way by themselves. 

Set your EQ to flat and run the auto calibration, adjust from there.


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

Ok so I did the auto TA & EQ & I honestly didn't like it & landed up adjusting it myself which sounded much better to me.

PROBLEM i'm having now is that when I first got everything installed & started to crank these bad boys, the louder I turned em up, the louder they got with NO distortion & it blew me away!!! BUT, after fiddling with the 80's audio settings, i haven't been able to get it back to that original sound that I liked the most!!!

So its either 1 of 2 things, first is that I played with the audio settings too much with little understanding of how each setting affects its sound & i'm gettin distortion/clipping that I didn't get before, OR second, my ears are adjusting to the loudness that I first heard & im basically chasing my own tail. 

So is there a way to "reset" it back to the original default settings & start over, or should I continue on with this thread & ask u audiophiles to explain to me in laymans terms of what the hell im adjusting since I have little understanding of how 100Hz differs from 200Hz when I crank it up?????


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## sbeezy (Nov 22, 2008)

Yes the reset button should be under the faceplate on the bottom left corner press it with a ballpoint pen for around 10-15 seconds.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

After playing with the EQ settings, ive gotten some better sound out of em but im really trying to push these puppies to ear piercing levels & I have an idea/question: I have two 4channel amps (both Lanzar MXA422's) that are bridgeable & figured why not use one amp to power the front comps & the other for the rear coaxials?? 

Good idea or no?? Or why not just bridge em with the amps turned all the way down & start tuning from there & see how it sounds?? 

((Sorry if my questions are newbie-ish as im slowly learning & becoming an audiophile!!))


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## sbeezy (Nov 22, 2008)

SeniorXJ said:


> After playing with the EQ settings, ive gotten some better sound out of em but im really trying to push these puppies to ear piercing levels & I have an idea/question: I have two 4channel amps (both Lanzar MXA422's) that are bridgeable & figured why not use one amp to power the front comps & the other for the rear coaxials??
> 
> Good idea or no?? Or why not just bridge em with the amps turned all the way down & start tuning from there & see how it sounds??
> 
> ((Sorry if my questions are newbie-ish as im slowly learning & becoming an audiophile!!))


why use rear fill if you have an active deck? audiophiles well at least most here and myself included do not use rear fill because it takes away from the staging of the music. Do you hear surround @ a concert? the same principals should also be applied in the vehicle if you are trying to achieve 3way audiophile sound. Do you have the deck in NW mode?


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

sbeezy said:


> why use rear fill if you have an active deck? audiophiles well at least most here and myself included do not use rear fill because it takes away from the staging of the music. Do you hear surround @ a concert? the same principals should also be applied in the vehicle if you are trying to achieve 3way audiophile sound. Do you have the deck in NW mode?


I support this comment, it really made a difference when i wen't from "standard" mode to "network" mode and bypassed the crossovers that came with the drivers. Like he said "ditch rear fill" and concentrate on the front stage quality, stay focus and be detailed on front stage only. You'll be surprised the things that you can do with the 80prs in active mode(network mode, same thing), of course to go active you will have to remove the headunit and look for a tiny switch , one side will say "STD" - standard, and on the other side of the switch it will read " NW". here is a link:

https://www.google.com/search?q=pio...b2fee0bf7f115d4%26mforum%3Dsgcaraudio;800;600


You will need 5 channels 1-sub, 2-mid, 2-tweeters, each channel powering a single driver with it's "dedicated signal". hope this helps/


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

ecobass said:


> I support this comment, it really made a difference when i wen't from "standard" mode to "network" mode and bypassed the crossovers that came with the drivers. Like he said "ditch rear fill" and concentrate on the front stage quality, stay focus and be detailed on front stage only. You'll be surprised the things that you can do with the 80prs in active mode(network mode, same thing), of course to go active you will have to remove the headunit and look for a tiny switch , one side will say "STD" - standard, and on the other side of the switch it will read " NW". here is a link:
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=pio...b2fee0bf7f115d4%26mforum%3Dsgcaraudio;800;600
> 
> ...


I guess I should of expected that answer once I said the word "audiophile." Here's the thing tho, as I've said before, I like rear fill & while u don't experience that at a concert, you DO experience that in an imax movie or even in my living room with the surround sound turned on!! I love the sound filling the whole cabin & even with my one deaf ear, I can still detect the rear coaxials playing!! Hell I'm even thinkin about putting a set of MS's back there but the rear sound bar in my jeep is a hard location to make em sound good, which I'm still workin on now.

The 80 is in standard mode & there's plenty of tuning still available for my ears. My biggest issue with going full active is my LACK OF UNDERSTANDING when it comes to slopes, Db settings, & Hz cut off points!!! I literally need my hand held & that's seemingly hard to ask for on this board!!! 

So, my first question is, will bridging the 4ch amp allow me to deliver more power to the comps WITH a cleaner signal???


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

Well the 3 way active support it's what makes this HU stand out from the rest, that is the main reason i (and others) wen't with this head unit instead of others. But if you really like and enjoy rear fill and the "surround sound like" in your jeep than stick with it , now that you've installed what you wan't , have someone professionally tune your set up and be done and happy.

If you need assistance going to 3 way network mode, you're in the right place - there's plenty of help here including my self, so don't let the LACK OF UNDERSTANDING keep you from doing it, I'm no expert or close to be but I've learned by reading , asking and actually put to work what i've learned here on this forum.

Btw I ran the auto eq and ta and didn't like the results at all, so i reset everything back and now doing it manually a little by little(messing with the slopes, filters etc) and sounds much better to me, but reading your comments you already know that.


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

ecobass said:


> Well the 3 way active support it's what makes this HU stand out from the rest, that is the main reason i (and others) wen't with this head unit instead of others. But if you really like and enjoy rear fill and the "surround sound like" in your jeep than stick with it , now that you've installed what you wan't , have someone professionally tune your set up and be done and happy.
> 
> If you need assistance going to 3 way network mode, you're in the right place - there's plenty of help here including my self, so don't let the LACK OF UNDERSTANDING keep you from doing it, I'm no expert or close to be but I've learned by reading , asking and actually put to work what i've learned here on this forum.
> 
> Btw I ran the auto eq and ta and didn't like the results at all, so i reset everything back and now doing it manually a little by little(messing with the slopes, filters etc) and sounds much better to me, but reading your comments you already know that.


Very true & I do understand. I would go active if there was a way to do it 4 ways where I can run my front comps (tweets & mids), the rear coaxials, & a single sub, but i've seen a few threads on that & they basically say its not made to do so, BUT that u could possibly split one of the signals. This ruins its TA feature, BUT what if I ran the front mids & coaxials together & didn't care about the TA?? 

Ya know i'm not sure if i'm just gettin greedy here, but ever since i've heard these puppies play, i want em so ear piercing loud & amazingly clear, that I cant even have a convo with my passenger who's less then a foot away & i'm literally almost there now so I know these MS's can do it!!!


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

ecobass said:


> Well the 3 way active support it's what makes this HU stand out from the rest, that is the main reason i (and others) wen't with this head unit instead of others. But if you really like and enjoy rear fill and the "surround sound like" in your jeep than stick with it , now that you've installed what you wan't , have someone professionally tune your set up and be done and happy.
> 
> If you need assistance going to 3 way network mode, you're in the right place - there's plenty of help here including my self, so don't let the LACK OF UNDERSTANDING keep you from doing it, I'm no expert or close to be but I've learned by reading , asking and actually put to work what i've learned here on this forum.
> 
> Btw I ran the auto eq and ta and didn't like the results at all, so i reset everything back and now doing it manually a little by little(messing with the slopes, filters etc) and sounds much better to me, but reading your comments you already know that.


Ok so if I decide to go Active & need assistance as ive already asked but got no reply, then what is one to do?? I'll try & ask again...

The only thing stopping me from running Active is that id want it in a 4 way setup using Y connectors to split one of the signals. If one didn't care much about the TA feature, could I successfully split the mid signal using it for the MS-62's woofer & my coaxials & still get the full benefits of running Active??


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

Keep in mind that if you split a signal, everything that you do to that signal will apply to all of the speakers on that channel. Any EQ, crossover settings, and TA you apply will effect all of the speakers on that channel. One option is to run the rears off of the HU amp. This won't bypass this problem, but it will keep you from needed to run extra cables and slitters, and you generally won't need a lot of output from the rears compared to the fronts anyway. You'll want to keep the rears very low compared to the fronts, and the internal amp in the HU can do this. 

Having said this, your front stage can maintain all of the benefits of being active and you can still run rear speakers. If you run them off of the same channel as your mids the high frequencies would be filtered out and you won't have as big of a problem with staging. This option will give you a bit more output and the fuller sound that you are looking for without completely destroying your sound stage.


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## SeniorXJ (Feb 10, 2012)

gijoe said:


> Keep in mind that if you split a signal, everything that you do to that signal will apply to all of the speakers on that channel. Any EQ, crossover settings, and TA you apply will effect all of the speakers on that channel. One option is to run the rears off of the HU amp. This won't bypass this problem, but it will keep you from needed to run extra cables and slitters, and you generally won't need a lot of output from the rears compared to the fronts anyway. You'll want to keep the rears very low compared to the fronts, and the internal amp in the HU can do this.
> 
> Having said this, your front stage can maintain all of the benefits of being active and you can still run rear speakers. If you run them off of the same channel as your mids the high frequencies would be filtered out and you won't have as big of a problem with staging. This option will give you a bit more output and the fuller sound that you are looking for without completely destroying your sound stage.


Sounds like a better option except for one issue is that Pioneer states in the manual that if using the RCA outs, that u should shut the internal amp off as mine is off now. So how would this affect the 80prs if I turned it back on, hooked up the rear speakers, & cranked up the tunes?? 

My normal listening level is probably much higher then the avg guy even on here, so id be drawing a lot of power out of both the 80 & my 4ch Lanzar that already runs hot after 25 min of cranking it!!


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## lilredsammy (Feb 10, 2012)

I have a 80prs too. The microphone that come with the hu looks pretty crappy. I wonder if a higher quality mic might help it tune closer to a baseline?


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

^^ Excelente question , I have the same feeling that a better quality mic would equal better results because like you've said the one included looks awful cheap, something that you wanna make sure though is that if you do try another mic that is an Omnidirectional microphone , If i remember right that is the type of mic the pioneer 80 prs comes with.


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## lilredsammy (Feb 10, 2012)

Should I run the setup with the car at idle since it's more of a real world environment? Sorry, I'm kinda hijacking the thread.


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## ecobass (Oct 15, 2012)

From what i understand the car should be off and you wan't to do this in the quietest place you can find, even if ur car is parked but have cars driving by or kids around or what not;the noise from that could be picked up by the mic and give you a wacky tune.


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## Runeknight95 (Oct 3, 2012)

Dont bother with it at all, It just pushes everything towards the front left side of the car. I even treid just putting the mic in the middle and it didnt help much

If you want your system for 10 mintues -20 mintues without it beeing on will your battery be dead?


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