# Another Infinite Baffle Thread - 3 12's in a 2007 Honda Accord



## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

lots of pics, just need to resize them and upload.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)




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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Looking forward to this one. Your trunk area looks almost identical to my TL so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. Any chance we'll get to hear it at the meet in a couple weeks?


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Finding the right angle. 2$ at harbor freight





































My buddy had a minimum day today, so free help 









4 small L brackets drilled in to the support bar.


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## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

looking forward to seeing the end results..... good job so far....


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Initial cardboard template











Initial cardboard template










Problem in the way of the wall









Solution










As suggested by others, I tried the Loctite PL375 adhesive. After more than 24 hours, it was not dry and with minimal effort I was able to move the 2 large brackets. Im not sure why this happened, I am thinking I can just take the car to welding shop and have them welded into place..I dont want to risk drilling there (gas tank)


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Thanks killa...

Other than the loctite not drying, it went pretty smooth. The inital baffle was cut with 1/4" MDF. This is going to be my template that I use to cut the rest of the pieces. I have a 3/4" piece and a 1/2" piece of MDF, I believe this will be plenty strong for the subs.

As much as I wanted to fit the subs, it looks as though the three will not fit in the space. I am going to undermount one of the subs to give me that 1" I need. The magnets will be facing towards the trunk.

Any thoughts on the 3/4 + 1/2" sheets? Am I losing anything?

Once it stops raining and I have some time (Saturday hopefully) I will cut the two panels, glue them, carpet, foam, then install trim pieces. I bought some weatherstipping, but the fit is so tight and I think the foam will suffice.

My only problem is that the trunk liner is going to have to be cut in 2 pieces. That is what the trim is for. Been real busy, not much time to think, sleeeppy....goodnight


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> Looking forward to this one. Your trunk area looks almost identical to my TL so it will be interesting to see how it turns out. Any chance we'll get to hear it at the meet in a couple weeks?


you bet, come hell or whatever they say


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## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

I think you should try to fit all 3 subs on the one piece. If you bring the wall back a few inches and fill in the blanks .. I think you can fit all three...


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## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

BTW .....what subs are you using?????


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

I am using a famous set of 12" AE IB12's 

Today, I was able to remove the loctite mess (that stuff is worthless), and I packed the the tried and tested old friend of mine, MR. JB Weld.

Ill give it a day to dry, if it holds, I am on schedule to complete it by Sunday.

It sucks not having sound, all I have is the 2 6x9's powered of the deck.


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## sq_guru (Oct 1, 2011)

Three IB 12"s? Are you going to have to reinforce your trunk lid to contain that SPL?


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

sq_guru said:


> Three IB 12"s? Are you going to have to reinforce your trunk lid to contain that SPL?


I'm running 2 of the IB15s in basically the same car. The trunk lid takes it very well surprisingly with just a layer of Second Skin. One thing that helped was removing the vents to the outside and putting a screen in their place. It lowered the Q a little which I like and seemed to be a little easier on the trunk. I have a separate problem, a factory wing spoiler that I don't think was available on Accords. Even though it doesn't make any noise, it looks retarded with the amount of movement on the outside. If I have it cranked, I turn it down when people pull up behind me at a red light.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

tonesmith said:


> Thanks killa...
> 
> Other than the loctite not drying, it went pretty smooth. The inital baffle was cut with 1/4" MDF. This is going to be my template that I use to cut the rest of the pieces. I have a 3/4" piece and a 1/2" piece of MDF, I believe this will be plenty strong for the subs.
> 
> ...



I would do two 3/4" sheets minimum. Are you able to brace it well from the back side? We should have similar SPL and during normal loud listening there's no flexing or vibration but push these subs toward their limits and the baffle does flex just a little. I added some additional bracing to the back side and have 12 of those L brackets attaching it to the car.

I used some weatherstripping foam between the car and the top and bottom of the baffle. Without it, you get squeaking anytime you hit a bump. On these cars, you will need to seal the area between the quarter panel and deck. There's enough SPL coming up from there that the rear panels inside of the car above the deck will vibrate.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

BTW, I'm jealous the Accord got a fold down rear seat. I might see what it would take to make the TL do that. Should be a bolt on deal hopefully. The only real difference I see is the TL's cross braces are at much more of an angle and thicker which is probably why they didn't have the seat fold down.

If you plan to run it with the seat up most of the time it's a good idea to remove the plastic housing for the locking skipass door. You will get a little more SPL. I put some black fabric attached to the back of the rear seat so you can't see the subs from the inside of the car even with the armrest down.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Thanks for the info, Matt right?

On the 1.25" of MDF I am going to use, I already used the JB Weld on the 2 large brackets to allow for 1.25" total of wall thickness.

Now I trust when you say I should do 1.5" minimum, however, I have never had a speaker box that used 1.5" walls in it and I cannot for the life of me see the wall not being adequate for these light drivers with not so much xmax.
I hope I am correct, if not I will reinforce it with the steel pieces.

Had anyone chimed in before I glued the brackets, I probably would have changed it. I Will have such a tight fight on the wall, I plan to do foam, then silicone, hopefully I wont have problems.

today I made my 2 final pieces of wall. I had to work tonight, so tomorrow I have to cut out the holes, carpet and seal then mount.
By taking the protective rubber rings off, I was BARELY (I mean 1/8" to spare total) able to fit the 3 subs in a slight V shape.

I think the output will be plenty, I wont have to take out the skipass brackets. I have 2 car seats in there at all times, so the seats wont ever be down, just ski pass open

I will definitely make sure to get either silicone or weatherstrip on the top, thanks for the tip. 12 brackets is crazy, I have 6 total, someone told me the foam adds a lot of hold is that not true? BuickGN, you have pics of the install?

Il be up early to get a headstart, I want my tunes back!


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Final Template (1.4"MDF)









Traced pattern onto 3/4" sheet









An idea I got on this forum:


















Damn Jigsaw broke, had to fix it









Final wall, fitted









Going to be a long day


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

Looks good. You could run the baffle as is with no sealing (not that I recommend it) and have no issues. When I first installed mine I forgot to plug the 8" stock sub hole in the deck along with the two 6.5" holes. After plugging them I noticed a very small SPL increase but it was hard to tell the difference. I've heard it's more important to seal right at the baffle but I've never tested that theory.

I'm sure your thickness is fine. No structural issues but I can feel a little vibration in my baffle when pushing the subs around xmax. There's no visible flexing and I guess you're always going to feel some kind of vibrations.

Hurry up, I really want to hear this system at the meet. It looks like I'm going to be showing up with only tweeters and subs and some awesome empty kick panels. My mids and midbasses are sold and I won't be buying the Esotars until Friday.


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## adamand (Apr 19, 2009)

Tonesmith - looking good! I have a '00 Accord that has just about the same trunk (ski pass, two car seats)... I'm heading towards an IB install myself but with (2) 15". 

How'd the KB weld work out? Did you have to strip any paint off or did you just glue it down as is?

Where are your amp(s) ending up? I'm considering building up the floor so I can still access the spare tire... 

How did you come to land on the AE's? I'm limited on budget and am considering the Dayton IB 15's... Maybe BuickGN can chime in?

Keep up the good work!


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

adamand said:


> Tonesmith - looking good! I have a '00 Accord that has just about the same trunk (ski pass, two car seats)... I'm heading towards an IB install myself but with (2) 15".
> 
> How'd the KB weld work out? Did you have to strip any paint off or did you just glue it down as is?
> 
> ...


He's the guy that stole them from me in the for sale thread recently lol. Just kidding but I'm assuming these are the 3 that were for sale pretty recently and I'm very glad he bought them because it took every bit of will power to not buy them even though I don't have a use for them.

I'm far from an IB expert, Sqshoestring is the guy to go to. I've tried quite a few subs IB so I guess I have a little experience.

I would watch the .6 Qts. At .6 unless you have a really large trunk you might be better off with just one of them. If you can vent your trunk, a pair might work. Many people like a Qtc of .7, my personal preference is a little lower. The trunk is going to raise the .6 to something higher, probably around .7 and a second sub will most likely put you over .7. At a minimum I would remove the flaps in the trunk vents and install a scree over them. This should lower the Qtc a little and I know it definitely helped the SQ on mine.

In the end you just have to try it. I tried one sub that had perfect "IB" specs and it sounded terrible. I tried the 12W6 that according to many including JL themselve should not work and it sounded awesome. 

Good luck with it, I will help as much as I can. You may want to see if you can find some Image Dynamics IDQ15v2 subs. I've heard these and they sound amazing in IB. I see them once in a while pretty cheap. The Flatlyne 15s also sound very good as do the W6 and W7s.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

I worked on it yesterday, not as much as i wanted, wifey is not happy I've been working on it "so much". More on that later. 

JB weld worked great, amazing amazing product, it truly is strong as steel as I DID find out! Just a quick iPhone update from the supercool DIYMA app.

Pics tonight hopefully.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Ok, more pics from work Sunday and today. I had a lot of set backs, it's like I took 2 steps forward and 1 step back.

2 pieces of mdf glued together









And Screwed:

















AND 1 of the set backs!

















I had initially planned to recess on of the subs, leaving them in a straight line. Because of that the location that I had anticipated placing the bracket was now in the way of the speaker! I spent a good hour cutting away the 1/8" thick steel bracket that was "cold welded" down by the JB Weld.

I was able to bend the bracket while in place back and forth while I was cutting it off with a grinder. the weld never budged, it truly is permanently bonded into place.

Starting the carpet



















I decided to cut the trunk liner in 2 pieces, to fit the wall in between, and I am happy with the result.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Some light at the end of the tunnel


















For whoever asked, my Zapco 360.4 is mounted upside down with the board held in place by 2 long toggle bolts. It was a real pain in the ass when I installed it 3 years ago but it was well well worth the effort. The amp is out of the way and very secure.









With the amp:









The power wires will be ran by the pillar in the trunk, I will post pics of it when done.

I was extremely, EXTREMELY FORTUNATE to have fit the subs into place!

I did not take into consideration having to mount the subs into place with that support bar behind the passenger seats in the way. I have to install them at an angle, with less than 1/4" either way to fit them! I have to be very careful in the future when selecting a sub, I will be limited by the mounting depth.



















Some comments. The wall fits extremely tight into place. I spent an hour, no joke, one hour tonight exerting all my strength to squeeze it into place with the weather strip and carpet providing a very tight fit. I will not have space to put weather strip on the top like I had hoped, I am goint to just run 2 beads of silicone on both sides.

Here is a close up of some of the weather strip on the bottom, I added more and thats what added to the really tight fit. I will maybe have to foam a very small area in the middle, or I may just silicone, not sure. 









I am not sure if I am going to add 2 more brackets, if I need to I can easily do it anytime. 

Tomorrow I will try to install the trunk liner on the other side and the spare wheel cover panel. Hopefully I can reinstall my Minotaur and the subs tomorrow and finally here some bbabbabababasssss!:laugh:

Its all coming together, I wont say its as bad as the time I remodeled the kitchen, that was a nightmare, but I remember why I havent messed with my car in years :laugh:


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## oldturd (Oct 31, 2009)

It's coming together nicely. I'm looking forward to your impressions of the subs.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Most of the install is done, pics to come.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Some of the foam I used in the sealing was used as a gasket since the rubber rings were not used.









The magnets were not in the best shape, so I scrubbed them with some stainless steel cleaner.









Finally mounted































































Still lots and lots of cleaning up to do.
I was a man on a mission today, I needed to have the install done today, at least to have the amps and speakers mounted.

At this point the speakers sound good. Very tight and punchy, but lacking in the low end (<30hz or so). I have lots and lots of tuning to do, so this doesnt bother me right now. I adjusted the sub sonic filter, or in this case the 48db/octave high pass filter on the Zed Minotaur, and got the low end I was accustomed to. I still think it can be better, I had no time tonight to really do any tuning. 

The subs sound good, I know they could go louder and hit harder, even though they are very loud right now. The subs move very little, and the last two clipping lights on my Minotaur dont even light up (well the second to the last flickers sometimes). 

I was very pleased with how they turned out, it is clear I have to do some deadening on the rear panel. If I turn it up loud enough, I dont hear the panel rattling, it gets drowned out! There is air leaking from lots of little places, I am not sure if plugging these is a big deal. For example, the child safety seat brackets leak air.

I played around with it for about 30 minutes and played some rap tunes and bass tracks to test the spl. Its amazing how these subs sound so "tight". Not boomy at all, but still loud, hard to explain. I put on some some trance and EDM, what I mainly listen too, and the bass coming out of them was like the bass you would hear at a big rave. Tight, detailed, very responsive and loud. I cant wait to really mess around with the tuning.

At this point it is about as loud as my 1 12" TC-3000 ported and tuned to 22hz (or was it 24hz?) given about 1200W. However, much better SQ imo.

Hopefully I can clean up the wires and finish the spare wheel cover panel before the weekend meet up.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Look what else arrived


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## LiquidClen (Dec 27, 2005)

Just bought some Auras for an IB install as well


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

LiquidClen said:


> Just bought some Auras for an IB install as well


I'm happy with the AE's so far, I need to seal some more to get More on the low end but I am happy so far. I got the auras because they were too good to pass up, once these are gone you won't be able to get them again.


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## LiquidClen (Dec 27, 2005)

tonesmith said:


> I'm happy with the AE's so far, I need to seal some more to get More on the low end but I am happy so far. I got the auras because they were too good to pass up, once these are gone you won't be able to get them again.


Any plans to put them in and maybe do an A/B comparison vs. the AE's?


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

LiquidClen said:


> Any plans to put them in and maybe do an A/B comparison vs. the AE's?


I would love to at some point, however I have a lot of sealing up to do, the rear deck is very leaky, I need to either remove my 6x9's and seal the hole or create an enclosure for them so they are not effected by the waves. Id rather have the rear fill, I have a 2 channel amp I wanted to use to power them with but creating a small enclosure will be tough.

I dont have the low end response I had hoped for, so now I am going to have to do more sealing, perhaps brace the wall with 2 more brackets and deaden the trunk....lots and lots of work and right now I dont have the time.

I was hoping to get some of that alphadamp that was on sale, but the sale is over now. 

At moderate levels the sound is very nice, but at higher levels the impact is just not there. I like a higher volume than most.


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

tonesmith said:


> I would love to at some point, however I have a lot of sealing up to do, the rear deck is very leaky, I need to either remove my 6x9's and seal the hole or create an enclosure for them so they are not effected by the waves. Id rather have the rear fill, I have a 2 channel amp I wanted to use to power them with but creating a small enclosure will be tough.
> 
> I dont have the low end response I had hoped for, so now I am going to have to do more sealing, perhaps brace the wall with 2 more brackets and deaden the trunk....lots and lots of work and right now I dont have the time.
> 
> ...


Polarity?


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

The subs are wired in parallel together, the load is correct and the polarities are correct to the amp, am I missing anything else here?


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## carfreak1024 (Aug 17, 2010)

i have the same car and am looking to do an IB install in it as well. Thanks for helping out with all the problems i gotta look forward to, but i meant to ask, how come you went with 3 12s as opposed to 2 15s. I am looking for really low response and was wondering why not go with the 15s that should theoretically drop lower. 


Gimme your opinion on that question and let me know how low your set drops with the 3 12s.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

tonesmith said:


> I would love to at some point, however I have a lot of sealing up to do, the rear deck is very leaky, I need to either remove my 6x9's and seal the hole or create an enclosure for them so they are not effected by the waves. Id rather have the rear fill, I have a 2 channel amp I wanted to use to power them with but creating a small enclosure will be tough.
> 
> I dont have the low end response I had hoped for, so now I am going to have to do more sealing, perhaps brace the wall with 2 more brackets and deaden the trunk....lots and lots of work and right now I dont have the time.
> 
> ...


Yours has great output and there's some low end but I agree, something wasn't quite right. I mean, it sounded very nice but I know it has more. I know when mine wasn't sealed at all, the low end is where the big losses were. 

You're going to the meet on the 10th, right? I have a TON of Second Skin Damplifier left over. A whole box actually. I'll give you what you need to do the car if you want it.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

carfreak1024 said:


> i have the same car and am looking to do an IB install in it as well. Thanks for helping out with all the problems i gotta look forward to, but i meant to ask, how come you went with 3 12s as opposed to 2 15s. I am looking for really low response and was wondering why not go with the 15s that should theoretically drop lower.
> 
> 
> Gimme your opinion on that question and let me know how low your set drops with the 3 12s.


The dual 15" versions will easily go below the human range of hearing. I can make the car vibrate without any audible output from the subs. I expect the 12s can do the same or at least play any note music has to offer.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

carfreak1024 said:


> i have the same car and am looking to do an IB install in it as well. Thanks for helping out with all the problems i gotta look forward to, but i meant to ask, how come you went with 3 12s as opposed to 2 15s. I am looking for really low response and was wondering why not go with the 15s that should theoretically drop lower.
> 
> 
> Gimme your opinion on that question and let me know how low your set drops with the 3 12s.


Without any question, go with 2 15's! Not because it is going to sound better or hit lower, but because the install will be waaaaaayyy easier than trying to fit 3 12's in that tight spot. I doubt youll notice a difference in the output. I only went with 3 of these because they were for sale by a local seller in my area and I picked them up for a good price. Also, they are 8ohms each, so having 3 in parallel gives me a good load to run my amp off of.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

BuickGN said:


> Yours has great output and there's some low end but I agree, something wasn't quite right. I mean, it sounded very nice but I know it has more. I know when mine wasn't sealed at all, the low end is where the big losses were.
> 
> You're going to the meet on the 10th, right? I have a TON of Second Skin Damplifier left over. A whole box actually. I'll give you what you need to do the car if you want it.


Man, Im going to try to make it, I requested the day off and again it was not given. Either I will switch with someone or just make the event early and leave earlier then I'd like. About the damplifier, man I would love to have it, but I cant just take it from you, but Ill let you sell it to me cheap, pm me please. Thanks alot!

Hopefully I will have time to start sealing process Sunday. But as posted in the offtopic threads, I have a fence around my house that needs to be replaced from wind damage, so it might stop me from working on it.


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## PottersField (Mar 18, 2011)

Seeing this install makes me want to rethink my install plans for my 96 Accord. The trunk is a bit different but pretty similar, same fuel pump placement, support braces are in similar places. I was wondering how I would go about supporting the bottom of the baffle and you came up with a great solution using JB Weld. I do wonder though, will vibration have any affect on the bond?

Speaking of support braces, you mentioned having trouble mounting the subs once the wall was installed. I don't know about the newer Accords but on mine those support braces behind the seat back are actually bolted in. Something to look int.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

tonesmith said:


> Man, Im going to try to make it, I requested the day off and again it was not given. Either I will switch with someone or just make the event early and leave earlier then I'd like. About the damplifier, man I would love to have it, but I cant just take it from you, but Ill let you sell it to me cheap, pm me please. Thanks alot!
> 
> Hopefully I will have time to start sealing process Sunday. But as posted in the offtopic threads, I have a fence around my house that needs to be replaced from wind damage, so it might stop me from working on it.


Ok, $5 lol. My GF will thank you for getting it out of the house.

I'm a little worried about not making it myself. I have my company Christmas party that night and I haven't done my timing belt yet. If I go I will be there early and leave early as well, probably won't be able to stay past 2PM. I'll PM you about shipping the Damplifier if I can't make it unless you would like it ahead of time I can ship it Monday.


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## carfreak1024 (Aug 17, 2010)

PottersField said:


> Seeing this install makes me want to rethink my install plans for my 96 Accord. The trunk is a bit different but pretty similar, same fuel pump placement, support braces are in similar places. I was wondering how I would go about supporting the bottom of the baffle and you came up with a great solution using JB Weld. I do wonder though, will vibration have any affect on the bond?
> 
> Speaking of support braces, you mentioned having trouble mounting the subs once the wall was installed. I don't know about the newer Accords but on mine those support braces behind the seat back are actually bolted in. Something to look int.


Yeah looked today and my support braces are bolted in. But my car is a RHD version and there are subtle differences in the two. So maybe his support braces are welded on?


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## carfreak1024 (Aug 17, 2010)

BuickGN said:


> The dual 15" versions will easily go below the human range of hearing. I can make the car vibrate without any audible output from the subs. I expect the 12s can do the same or at least play any note music has to offer.


I made up my mind for sure. I am supposed to be getting the 15s once exams are finished on December 21st. I am a university student so time is always an issue. I already called the guys and let them know to reserve a pair of DUAL 4 ohm 15s for me. Wondering if having the US AMPS 1000X power the subs is gonna be a bad thing? Its like 1000RMS @12.5v. 

Maybe i should buy a pair of D2 15s instead and run the amp 4 ohm stereo?


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

Hey buddy....your install looks great...those speakers are absolutely gorgeous...wish you could show off the front of them....but the baskets are just as pretty....


As for your lack of low end response, I think it would be a great advantage for you to take apart your rear deck completely and isolate the trunk area as much as possible from the cabin space....effectively separating front / rear waves for the subwoofer.

Also....get like 10 cans of GreatStuff expanding foam.....fill that **** into every crevice you can find.....any spot that you can see air can escape to the front, that is lost energy in the low bass region.....also, instead of usingthe weather stripping around the baffle, use the modelling clay or expanding foam. It will give a much more sure seal thant the weatherstripping

I'm not sure if you've completely treated the rear deck, but there are many holes in there that you could probably fill with non-hardening modelling clay or dynamat (raammat or whatever you prefer).


I have two twelves in a faux IB setup and it hits pretty friggen hard and low....I've filled up my C-Pillar with the expanding foam, filled in huge voids in the rear deck with the great stuff, put raammatt everywhere on the rear deck and for what my setup is, it gets loud and low no problem....three twelves in an IB setup like yours should pound the crap out of your car, lol.


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## pontiacbird (Dec 29, 2006)

Ninebreaker said:


> This install came out great... I've always been intrigued about IB installs, I've just never had the balls to do it nor the tools, nor wood-working experience.


IB's are actually pretty easy once you do it, usually once you do it once, I think you'd be hard pressed to use a regular enclosure ever again....it's time and labor intensive in the prep, but from an efficiency standpoint for both the power side and the trunk space side, you really can't beat it. I will always try to do an IB setup in my cars if it's possible.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

Ninebreaker said:


> This install came out great... I've always been intrigued about IB installs, I've just never had the balls to do it nor the tools, nor wood-working experience.


For me, the main driving force was 2 things: 
1. Maximum trunk space without the need to have to worry about damaging speakers (because I mounted them magne\nts out)
2. Maximum efficiency and driver displacement

I never had the balls to do it either. Honestly the hardest part is just deciding to do it and tearing up the trunk. Im not going to lie, building a box is 10X easier and faster, but at this point in time I am happy I did it.

You know its the little tools that make the difference. things like the angle finder, rotary tool ("dremel"), counter sinks....lots of little things that make the process go easier.

But I think a jig saw, level, drill and some bits is all you need.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

pontiacbird said:


> Hey buddy....your install looks great...those speakers are absolutely gorgeous...wish you could show off the front of them....but the baskets are just as pretty....
> 
> 
> As for your lack of low end response, I think it would be a great advantage for you to take apart your rear deck completely and isolate the trunk area as much as possible from the cabin space....effectively separating front / rear waves for the subwoofer.
> ...


Thanks for the comment. I have been planning on sealing it up for about 3 months now. I have the great stuff, extra brackets and wood ready to seal up the deck, just life gettin in the way of my silly hobby  Hardening clay is an interesting idear.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

pontiacbird said:


> Hey buddy....your install looks great...those speakers are absolutely gorgeous...wish you could show off the front of them....but the baskets are just as pretty....
> 
> 
> As for your lack of low end response, I think it would be a great advantage for you to take apart your rear deck completely and isolate the trunk area as much as possible from the cabin space....effectively separating front / rear waves for the subwoofer.
> ...





tonesmith said:


> Thanks for the comment. I have been planning on sealing it up for about 3 months now. I have the great stuff, extra brackets and wood ready to seal up the deck, just life gettin in the way of my silly hobby  Hardening clay is an interesting idear.


I agree with what he said. I did an IB set up in my 06 Civic with 2 AE IB15's and it was a beast. But it absolutely has to be sealed off. You're going to be shocked when you seal it off and listen to it. It's going to be a night and day difference. Nice work so far!


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## perfecxionx (Sep 4, 2009)

im sorry if you mentioned this in the thread but can you post exactly what type of jbweld product you used to secure those brackets to the floor?


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## DiMora (Nov 14, 2011)

This thread is awesome...I may go in this direction eventually. I've always wanted to try an IB setup.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

perfecxionx said:


> im sorry if you mentioned this in the thread but can you post exactly what type of jbweld product you used to secure those brackets to the floor?


2-Piece Cold Weld Epoxy Set-8265-s at The Home Depot

Thats the one. Still no signs of wear or cracking.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

DiMora said:


> This thread is awesome...I may go in this direction eventually. I've always wanted to try an IB setup.


Thanks for the comment. BTW, thanks for replying to me about the paypal thing. I will reply back some day!


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## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

So how do you like it now...... a few months later... ?


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## John Reid (Jun 6, 2008)

Just saw this thread. I used to run 4 10"s IB in my old Civic sedan from the early 90's up to '09. LOVED the system. SoundStream SS10R Limited editions... AKA "The Velvet Hammer". Gotta love 90's car audio marketing, but it _was_ hammer time when I cranked the system.










2 firing through the rear deck, and 2 firing through the back seat, as yours do. For the baffles, I used a triple-decker sandwich of 3/4" MDF and sound deadener, and a whole mess of hex bolts to secure them to the car. YOu could pretty much tow the car by pulling on the baffles.

Like a previous poster said, judicious use of spray foam is key to COMPLETELY seal the trunk from the cabin of the car, as well as some silicone for smaller areas.

Also, since it looks like you have cloth seats, you may be able to remove some foam from the seats to allow move bass energy to transfer into the cabin, as opposed to it all being forced through the ski pass-through. I did this in my Civic, with great results. Remove the back seat, and carefully core out the foam (about the diameter of a quarter or nickel) until you reach the cloth using an Xacto knife. Turns your back seat into a big speaker grille, and still has enough structural support for it to be used.

Ah, brings back memories of the steering wheel flexing. Went down SOOOO low. People thought I was running 15"s.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

killahsharksjc said:


> So how do you like it now...... a few months later... ?


Well to be totally honest, I have not been able to work on the car, so it still is not completely sealed off. It sounds good enough for me right now that it just isn't a priority for me right now. I had attempted a couple times to work on it, but each time the weather was against me, and I really haven't had the combination of time + motivation to do it. Also, my radio took a crap on me and I have the notorious pico fuse issue on my Pioneer. I am thinking I wont be working on my car until I get the new HU (DEH-80PRS) thats coming out soon.

I have all the materials I need, including a box of damplifier pro. I just need a weekend off and some sunny weather. I will definitely post back when I get moving again.


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## tonesmith (Sep 8, 2011)

John Reid said:


> Just saw this thread. I used to run 4 10"s IB in my old Civic sedan from the early 90's up to '09. LOVED the system. SoundStream SS10R Limited editions... AKA "The Velvet Hammer". Gotta love 90's car audio marketing, but it _was_ hammer time when I cranked the system.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Interesting idea with the car seats. I'm not sure if Ill ever do it, but if I have some time it sounds like a great idea. First things first though, sealing off the rear deck, it moves a good 2 inches atm.


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## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

John Reid said:


> Just saw this thread. I used to run 4 10"s IB in my old Civic sedan from the early 90's up to '09. LOVED the system. SoundStream SS10R Limited editions... AKA "The Velvet Hammer". Gotta love 90's car audio marketing, but it _was_ hammer time when I cranked the system.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 That looks absolutely amazing! Do you happen to have any more pics of the vehicle? I would love to see them.


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