# 92 Mustang GT 5.SLO



## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Well a friend of mine recently picked up this ride (it's his dream and baby all rolled into one) and decided he wanted to add a relatively simple system. A lot of the items he already had, head unit, subs, wiring, and some he bought, component speakers, amps, deadening. 

He came to me since he knew I had some idea how all these things went together, and well, it's gotten a little more involved but, we want this thing to look good right.

Goals:
1. Keep a clean and semi-stock look in the cab. 
Cargo area is up for grabs as this isn't a daily driver. But we're still going for a clean look.
2. Use the equipment he already has. 
It's pretty good stuff, and there's no need for active or large amounts of processing.
3. Keep some form of speaker in all the factory locations. 
We butted heads here, but it's his car so it's what he wants.

Equipment:

Source: Clarion DXZ555MP with Ipod adapter
Component Amp: Elemental Designs NINe.2
Component Set: Elemental Designs e9.65s
Subwoofer Amp: Elemental Designs NINe.2x
Subwoofers: 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1
Dash Speakers: Infinity 3022CF  3-1/2" coaxial off HU
Rear Fill: Infinity 6822CF 6x8 coaxial off HU
Deadening: Raamat
Wiring: Assorted (Monster, Stinger, Scosche, etc)

I understand some of the dislike for ED but let's please keep this off the build log. The equipment has been selected and will more than likely make the owner very happy.

Shot of the car before I got my hands on it


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

Wow I've had my hands on 500+ fox bodies, those cars still have a place in my heart. That one looks to be in great shape! Tuning in for this build..


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## Echo42987 (Dec 25, 2008)

Very nice car!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

It is in really good shape for its age and lack of much work on it. Sounds amazing too. So onto the install. The first hurdle to overcome was installing the door speakers. I opened the door to find this:









Well, needless to say we have to do something about the map pockets (honestly in pretty good shape and more about the failing elastic). Also, the doors have about 1" of mounting depth as the window track is right behind the speaker opening and the door card offers no protrusion into the cab. 
You can see that in this pic of the interior:









The 9.65 mids are pretty beefy with a mounting depth a hair over 3" so a pod of some sort needed to be made. Fiberglass was an option but I wanted to be able to mount a newly upholstered map pocket on top of my pod if so desired. This was in order to keep that nostalgic look. I am not a fan of pleats in general, but I totally understood where he was coming from. 

The next dozen or so shots are the solution to the doors. These aren't finished yet. I'll probably have them completely done, minus the upholstery, tomorrow.

Stock door panel









Remove map pocket with fold over tabs and speaker cover by drilling out plastic rivets









Traced out map pocket and speaker cover and located hole for base plate









Cut out first baffle, ensure straight lines and perfect circle as this would serve as a pattern for all the other parts. Screwed in place to use flush trim bit on router.









Rough cut with jigsaw to about 1/8" within pattern.









Driver and passenger side base baffle done.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Using the speaker area of the base plate as a pattern I made four baffles that would serve to extrude the speaker mount into the cab. I only needed one to mount the mid to, but decided flushing the aftermarket grill would look nice and give me an opportunity to shape the pod a little for looks. The four baffles looked like this, inner circle is the mounting diameter while the outer circle is for the flush mount... that made me think of Mount Flushmore... I guess the four fathers of the toilet business would be on it









I made the speaker hole on the middle plate using my flush trim bit and the base plate to keep things aligned. Then traced this hole onto the top plate and worked from that center to get the flush mount hole. Once these were done I glued screwed and clamped them together. Then my neighbor came over and asked if I could put some furniture together, so I let the glue dry and helped her out.









































My new best friend R2D2...









Both sides are done and dry. I smoothed out any rough spots with the palm sander and need to use some filler for any low spots. There are only a few, but they may show under vinyl. I'll be adding a roundover to the top edges of the baffle as well as a cove piece between the transition so it should smooth out pretty well. You may be wondering about how I'll mount these things to the door. I've got some ideas that I will share with you tomorrow. It's pretty simple and should work while keeping all the functionality and total removability in case he decides to go back to stock.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

By the way, I found these the other day and they're awesome. Quick release C-clamps. I'm totally infatuated with them. I plan on getting more, but I have two now and they're great. Push the little red button and no more spinning forever.

Bessey Quick Release C-Clamp

Anytime I find something or use something that I'm not sure everyone has I'll try and post up a pic or link. I've found a lot of great tools through you guys and others so I'll try and help out anyone else.


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## saleen8905 (Jan 9, 2009)

subscribing..... I have an 89 Hatchback and need to redo my door panel pods. I did something very similar. I traced the speaker cover and made a pod but only used 1 peice of 3/4 MDF. So I'm curious what you do with the map pockets as I left mine alone.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

Looking good so far. Love those cars. 1st fast car I ever owned and the 2nd car I ever owned was a 1988 GT in Medium Scarlet Red. 5 speed, grey interior, sunroof, pw, pl, tilt, cruise but no a/c and I didn't want it either. Car served me very well in 1 year of high school and 2 of college.

Here's pics of the system I had in it back in the mid-90s. IMO the best door panels ever made were the pre-fab ones I had made by Scosche or was it Soundquest? They were called Audioforms. The entire setup in the back was removable as 1 piece and connected with quick-connectors.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Saleen, welcome aboard. You shall soon see, I guess we all shall, whether this is going to work or not... it should.

SUX 2BU, I love that install, definitely am impressed with the prefab door pods. I'm in the garage right now working on the ones I've put together. I am in the air about the back. Thought about a raised floor like you have, but he wants to retain the spare... which makes it about 7" to raise the floor. Kinda loses the look in my opinion. Thanks for the great pics.


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

I totally remember those prefab door panels. They were NICE but they were priced out of my budget. I had an '89 notchback in '97-'99, I built pods in the doors for Morel 8s and did a 5.25 and tweet in the kicks. I can probably have my wife scan some pics if anyone has an interest in seeing it.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Treetop, I would love to see those pics. I'm just about done with my version. Just need to rub them down with some filler to hit some low spots and smooth out the transition between the pod and the base panel. Not sure if I'll wrap them or get them done. I'm having trouble finding some color matched vinyl. I saw on stangnet that someone used regular vinyl and got some SEM dye that matched the factory coloring.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

Post the pics! Would love to see them, Treetop. The Audioforms, made by Soundquest, were a really really nice product. Whoever fabbed the prototypes and molds up back in the day really knew what they were doing vs. what was being done in custom installs at the time. They offered 3 versions of them: bare abs (with a leather grain), vinyl wrapped and leather wrapped. I had the bare ones. I think they were $299 for the pair, Canadian. They were definitely worth it. A local shop here closed out some years ago and they had a pair of vinyl-wrapped ones on their clearance table. I really should have bought them just to have them. I can't even find pics or any info at all about Audioforms on the 'net. They made them for all kinds of cars back then. Another manufacturer was Z-box, which I think was primarily for Porsches.


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

My wife said she'll help me with scanning the pics, I'm going to try to round them up right now.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

I love mustangs and foxes in general. Your friends looks to be in real good shape. Keep it that way cause a clean fox is getting hard and costly to find. 

Here is a pic I found years ago with a set up in one that I really liked. 









Here is a pic of my collection or as of a year or so ago. The 95  is gone now but the 02 is in process of being shipped down to TX from VA and the 89 will one day make it down here as well. I want another fox BAD. I have looked for years for the audioforms for the 94+ cars and had no luck finding them.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Kornnut, we will definitely be keeping it well. It's not a daily driver and it stays out of the rain. I like that amp rack you did a lot. May have to steal some "inspiration" from you as we've been tossing amp racks around. There may be a 95 install for another friend in the future if things go as planned. It's quite a beast as well.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

OH NO I didn't do the amp rack. Just one I found lol. When I get another fox I will do one like it though. Glad to hear the car will stay clean. Be sure to take a lot of pics along the way. I love those cars.


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## Lumadar (Sep 28, 2007)

The progress pics on the new door panels look awesome. Can't wait to see where this goes.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Kornnut, I just noticed that when I re-read it. I would probably copy it pretty much if we were getting rid of the spare. It looks like I'll be doin some glassin for the enclosures in the corners. With this method it should take up minimal space, add minimal weight, retain access to the spare, and sit underneath the trunk lid so it's hard to see the subs looking in the back window. Everything is taped off so tomorrow it looks like I'll be gettin high on the fumes. Respirator FTW.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

InjunV18 said:


> Kornnut, I just noticed that when I re-read it. I would probably copy it pretty much if we were getting rid of the spare. It looks like I'll be doin some glassin for the enclosures in the corners. With this method it should take up minimal space, add minimal weight, retain access to the spare, and sit underneath the trunk lid so it's hard to see the subs looking in the back window. Everything is taped off so tomorrow it looks like I'll be gettin high on the fumes. Respirator FTW.


Sounds good. Get plenty of pictars.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Got some work done on the doors today. They're pretty much done, just need to get some shorter bolts and more t-nuts. I haven't put the speaker mounts in, but that shouldn't take any time. I'll need to wrap them in vinyl but I'll wait til the end to do that since I need to do the amp rack and sub enclosure(s).

Anyway, started back by adding a strip of cove molding to help with the transition between the speaker plates and the base plate. 

















I glued these in place with the intent to add some substance for the filler I was going to smooth it out with. I didn't want to have to build it all up with filler as I thought it may be a pain and possibly fall off. Once the glue dried I started adding filler and sanding it smooth. Not the best at this but I'm slowly learning. Got it pretty smooth by the end.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Once I figured it was smooth enough for vinyl I started to fit it to the door panel. 









Got some company while working in the garage...









Just a rat snake, but kinda startling none the less.

My idea was to flush some t-nuts on the front of the baffle and drill through the baffle and the door panel. Then run a bolt in from the back. This would allow a smooth front for the baffle if we leave the map pocket off and one can remove the baffle and go back to stock with just a screwdriver. I used the t-nuts so that there would be no chance of stripping drywall screws and losing the tight fitment. Drilling into the panel is fine as there are quite a few holes there from the map pockets so I'm not damaging a mint area. I made sure to keep the holes uniform and neat so that it didn't look like swiss cheese. I counter sunk the t-nuts and will cover them with a little filler. Should disappear right in to the front of the baffle. Thought about threaded inserts but figured the t-nuts would hold better in the MDF. 

















I needed to add two screws from behind the main speaker area to pull everything tight. I didn't want to, but I couldn't fit a t-nut and there was so much material to bite in to, so I think it will be ok. I went through stock holes on the door card from where the original speaker grill was mounted.









I also needed to modify the top of the speaker area to accommodate where it meets the dash. I waited till this point so I could hang the panel and then cut the pod all at once. Jigsaw handled this with no problem and then I just rounded the edges and sanded everything smooth.

















I used more t-nuts then I originally intended but it bolts up very tightly. I need to get some more 10-32 bolts that are the proper length. The ones I used were just some I had around. It looks like these will look pretty good and allow him to mount just about any 6.5" speaker he chooses in the future.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

The next step is the rear hatch. My original intention was a "Bing" style false floor. However, I would've had to raise the floor in the hatch area about 7"-8" which just seemed obscene. He's not going to use the cargo area, but it really takes away from the look and I just hate taking away all the real estate. Also, all the MDF would add quite a bit of weight, which is never good. 









It looks like I'm gonna glass an enclosure in each back corner. This keeps weight down, keeps a good clean look, fires the drivers into the cabin, and as an added bonus keeps the woofers out from under the back glass. With this, they won't be as visible or as susceptible to effects from the sun.

I made a false floor from MDF as the stock flooring was in pretty bad shape. This also gives me something to mount things to. I'll be trimming out a panel in the center for access to the spare.









Started taping everything off and made a mock up of things. My awesome girlfriend helped with the tape job. She's going to be a fiberglass wonder I'm sure. What do you guys think? The amps aren't in their permanent locations. Just chillin. Changes are still possible I guess.

















I'll be attempting to use the stock bolt for the cargo cover as a mounting point. The cargo cover will still be usable. It's the black dot above the woofer.









Other side









Doors took longer than I figured and I didn't want to get started with fiberglass and not be able to finish the initial mold. Looks like that's what I'll be doing tomorrow. 

Let me know what you guys think. Will probably flush the amps so there will be a lot of trunk space left. I liked the design Kornnut posted a few up.


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

looks great! i wish i could of got my 93 cobra when i had the chance! damn insurance!!!


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## 30something (Jan 9, 2009)

Lookin' good...I too will be laying some glass in the AM...have fun 



InjunV18 said:


>


Those panels behind the seat that the amps are resting against...I'm not too sure about Mustangs, but on an Explorer from that same era they were metal and real sturdy...the best part is that they folded down with the seats. I just bolted my amps to them and ran the wires through gromets. Ended up looking really clean and the amps would lay down flat when the seats were lowered.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Yeah, those panels are metal and are linked to the seats. I will most likely make amp "boxes" that move with the seats. Not that he'll be laying them down but it should be ok. I am going to try and make the amps disappear.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Lumadar said:


> The progress pics on the new door panels look awesome. Can't wait to see where this goes.





BKJT05 said:


> looks great! i wish i could of got my 93 cobra when i had the chance! damn insurance!!!





30something said:


> Lookin' good...I too will be laying some glass in the AM...have fun


Thanks for the compliments guys. Stayed out last night so just now getting to the glass work.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Looking good


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I hope you have better luck than I did trying to get solid bass from firing woofers up towards the glass. I did everyting from ported, sealed from 2-12's to 4-10's and nothing worked until I did 2-12's in a sealed enclosure firing at the rear of the cars hatch. I miss my 5.0 LX as it was insanely fast and handled really well. The only thing stock on my motor was the block.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Bob, is that so? So you suggest having them behind the rear seat firing forward? That's totally feasible, I haven't started any real work back there yet. Taking a personal day with the girl and thought I can just do it next week.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

No, behind the rear seat firing backwards away from the listeners. It was like night and day!!!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

That's what I meant. I have no idea why I said forward... anyway, I'm going to believe you on this one as I have no experience. Anyone else wanting to chime in, please feel free. I need the output and since I haven't started the glass it's no hair off my back... wait, I don't have any hair on my back... uhmm, I think it's skin off my back isn't it. Wow... well, thanks anyway, if I go this route my life becomes much easier.


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## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

You could always do something like this:










Those are really just for demos, the main sub is in the dash in front of the shifter:










Just thought I would share and show some other things done in Foxbody's


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## SGSeeker (May 31, 2007)

foosman said:


> Just thought I would share and show some other things done in Foxbody's


That had to have taken upwards of "thousands" of hours to do like that. I'm trying to figure out how to do anything with my fox-body based vehicle...it's not that easy, especially with a foot-pedal for parking brake 

The above isn't very practical for a standard driver though...you have your gauges (digital in center?) and the continuous risk of theft. I love what the person did though!


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

InjunV18 said:


> Bob, is that so? So you suggest having them behind the rear seat firing forward? That's totally feasible, I haven't started any real work back there yet. Taking a personal day with the girl and thought I can just do it next week.


I started with my two 10s (sealed) right behind the passenger seat firing forward, not much output (94 300zx - it's a hatchback like your FoxBody). Then someone told me to turn the box around so they were firing towards the back. HUGE difference in output. My vote goes to turning yours 180 deg.


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## radioflyer97 (Mar 30, 2009)

Good looking work. Can't wait to see more. 


btw: I have the same shop vac! It works like a charm especially for thermoforming.


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## Mooble (Oct 21, 2007)

InjunV18 said:


>


Just out of curiosity, why aren't you doing full enclosures along the bottom? You've already done most of the work. Why go to all that trouble just to use the door for the enclosure which never works that well?

This is what I started.


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## colorado_clean (Jul 11, 2008)

foosman said:


> You could always do something like this:
> 
> Just thought I would share and show some other things done in Foxbody's


Looks nice! OP did say he wanted to retain a stock look though... Don't think anything about that car is stock lol .


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Put the amps in the floor under your feet like Chad Klodner


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## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

I like the look of this so far, I say don't hold back on the boot install, and rearward firing woofers sounds like a good idea. You could get away with a fairly simple timber box and mount the amplifiers in the rear quarters where the subs were going to be.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Wow, lots of response since my last update. 

Foosman... funny, real funny. No, I saw your ride and am thoroughly impressed. My girlfriend said looking at that, "Wow, the install must've cost more than the car" With the stuff I'm using and the budget I think we'll be ok salivating over yours.

SGSeeker... thanks for stickin up for me, but that is obviously an amazing showcar. I doubt it's hardly ever in the situation to be worried about theft.

93VG30DE... I would imagine you would get some losses firing into the seatbacks. I didn't plan on doing that. If in the bottom corners they would be aimed up and with the advice from here they'll be behind the seats but firing to the rear of the car.

Radioflyer... Thanks and that cool about forming with it. Didn't think of that, but that's awesome

Mooble... That was actually an original idea, but there isn't room to get a good sized enclosure because of the seat mechanics. I'll be deadening the doors as well as I can, and I think it'll be ok. I also am trying hard not to change the interior look too much and enclosures may have been a little too much. Plus, that would be something I'd try in my own car, but not for someone else unless they really wanted it. I have a 92 fullsize chevy blazer that I think I'll do sealed enclosures in.

colorado_clean... Thanks for the support

HondAudio... haven't seen that but I'm about to check it out, sounds cool.

Big_Valven... I think the woofers will be good as well rearward firing. I'll look at the amps in the back of the hatch as you mentioned.


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## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

I was only trying to help and give ideas. But the bottom line is rear firing is best.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

No, I definitely thank you for your input. Your work is always inspiring. Thanks for the vote on rear firing. I'll have no doubts now.


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## TXwrxWagon (Sep 26, 2008)

Definitely rear firing in a Fox 1 hatch. Straight up will load up too much against the window.

Rear/up-ish is best... gets more of the initial 1/4 wave into the cabin.

Foos! where is the build log? Did you do it all yourself? Incredible... especially given the time table...

Rob


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

I'm having a heck of a time finding my Mustang door panel pics. I found pics of my enclosure and amp rack but those won't be much help since mine was a notchback (trunk). 

I'm going to look thoroughly through the garage tomorrow, I have to tear into all my storage bins anyway hoping to find a 3-pin power plug for an AudioControl EQL. Needle in a haystack, but hopefully I'll find the Mustang pics too.


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## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

TXwrxWagon said:


> Definitely rear firing in a Fox 1 hatch. Straight up will load up too much against the window.
> 
> Rear/up-ish is best... gets more of the initial 1/4 wave into the cabin.
> 
> ...


What do you want to see?? I have literally 1000 pics. I will put together a build log at some point, and no, this is a resurrected car from 10 years ago that has been collecting dust since 2003 that belonged to a team member that lost interest as is fairly common with multiyear builds. It made its debut at Spring Break Nationals in Daytona this year with the highest SQ score of the entire competition. The level of build is far beyond my skills, but the resurrection and rebuilding is not. Since you are local Rob feel free to come listen whenever you want. BrownieQue coming up on 4-25.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I agree with rearward firing "Up-Ish" with the bottom of the enclosure tapered slightly wider tan the top of the enclosure front to back. 

I had 16 speakers total in my Mustang. Most of which were all the original Boston Pro Series. I had a set of OZ Audio Seat Subs under the front seats, which were 8" 200L's in small custom made enclosures for the Mustang. I had a set of 4.2's in each stock dash location with a tweeter flush mounted right next to it and another set of 4.2 components in the center for a center channel, a set of 6.2's in each door and a set of 6.0 LF's in the rear stock locations. I had to take the entire dash out of the car to counter-sink the center channel in and was using an Audio Control ESP-3 for processing. I had 2 Soundstream D200II's and one Soundtream D100II running the mids and highs and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 DSM running a pair of Kicker Comp VR's in a sealed enclosure. 

My 1990 Mustang was the best sounding car that I ever built by far. It imaged dead solid perfect, was open, very dynamic and loud to boot. My 1985 Thunderbird was louder, but it did not image as well as the Mustang. The imaging of the Mustang was side biased until I added the center channel and then it was a whole new ballgame. Be prepared to play with time alignment to get a proper image.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Thanks for the help guys. I'll be working on everything again tomorrow and needless to say, all the input from you has been very revealing. I look forward to listening to everything once it's all done.

Treetop, good luck finding all that stuff. I know how it can be to want something and have no idea where it is.

Audiobob, I would have loved to hear your stang. It seems like you had an amazing system. This one won't be as intense, but I think my friend will be happy with the look and more importantly, the sound of the finished product. 

Hope to have some updated pics for ya'll in the next few days.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

Looking real good dude. If you want the amps to disappear, you should sink them into tubs built into the back of the seat. Then when the seats are up, the metal panel hides them, and protects them. When the seats are folded down, they are visible to see. Back seats shouldn't be hard to find if you don't want to modify the one that came with the car.

I had two Punch 12's firing up at the back window on a Punch 60i in an ABC box. I didn't have any problems with output. My Power 12 though in the setup I posted a pic of was a little louder though. The hatch window shape is your friend and I'm sure firing backwards will help output plenty.

AudioBob, very interesting system. You had those seat subs eh? Very cool! How did you like them? That's another old skool product that's impossible to find anymore, like the Audioforms. What you did with the center channel reminds me of what a local guy to where I grew up did in his 88 GT too: rear-mounted a center channel in the dash that required it's removal to get at it, on an ESP-3. He used 4 MS-series PG amps and 4 10s in a clamshell isobaric setup. Ahhh the early 90s. Such a cool time


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## RedlineNtrllDrop (Apr 6, 2009)

Shot of the car before I got my hands on it







[/QUOTE]


That car looks like a pile of crap... your friend must be a complete idiot...


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

RedlineNtrllDrop said:


> That car looks like a pile of crap... your friend must be a complete idiot...


Hahaha, yeah, it looks really bad now that I've messed it up. Just for all you fine Diyma folks, that's the lucky fella who owns the vehicle. 

Welcome aboard man... glad you can keep up with the build.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Today consisted of starting the sub enclosure. As per everyone's advice, I placed the subs behind the seats aiming up and back. I didn't want to just make a prismatic box that someone could mistake for a pre-fab. So I decided to make a support system, aim a set of rings and glass the top. With that in mind I began to create a skeleton to stretch fleece over. I really wanted it to flow like it was sculpted so keep in mind that I will be trimming the bottom piece. I made the rings and am letting the glue cure under pressure tonight. Tomorrow I will secure the rings and the stretch and staple my fleece. The side rib/braces took quite a while to get "just right."

The sub isn't in the final location but just there for reference. If I'm good/lucky I'll have it all be shallow enough to fit just under the cargo cover. 














































So it doesn't look like much, but the amount of sawdust in my garage says differently. Tomorrow should have a lot more to show for my efforts.


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## foosman (Oct 14, 2007)

Looks very nice so far, and a good concept. Don't berate yourself, there are some skills evident there already.


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## blacksvtf03 (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice install, car looks to be in good shape.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

lookin good inj..


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

+1, yes, def work is of quality and the fact that you took experianced advice on board shows your willing to flex with the project, a quality for any installer!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

A good bit of progress was made Tuesday and yesterday. There's been a lot of sitting back and staring and thinking how to put everything together. I believe I've got it figured out and it should look pretty good once things are finished. 

Onto the pics:

I needed to fill the area between the ribs/braces and have it contour to the wheel humps. 

4 yards of $1/yd Walmart fleece FTW!!!








Super stretchy in only one direction so need to think about that when stapling.

Taped off the rest of the wheel humps. Added PAM as mold release.









Stapled fleece to the back of the ribs pulling it semi-taut. Once the box goes in the wheel wells should push in on the fleece giving me the contour I'm looking for.









Once everything looked ok I applied resin to the fleece and let it harden for about 2 hours. Took about 8 oz of resin for the initial coating.









Out of the car. Came out without too much pulling.

























Mock up of sub and amp placement. Rings done by the way.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

As you can see, I've decided to mount the amps in between the subs. Multiple reasons for this, but number 1 is that the whole enclosure can be removed at once if he decides to go to the track. I'll have a quick disconnect system that we'll go into later.

So yesterday consisted of getting the amp rack fabricated and mounted. A lot of measuring and thinking went into this stage and I'm pretty happy with how everything came out. The fit is nearly perfect. I could have done a little better with the curvature of the the heatsink, but my initial template didn't take them into consideration, the curve that's there was just a freehand.

Cardboard mock up

















I just used the knife in the pic and a plastic ruler. It was thick cardboard which really helped with the tracing. I almost feel I could have used the flush trim bit with it.

Anyway, first one done with jigsaw. Cut out initial rectangle with circular saw and Accu-rip guide.









Second rackmount made with flush trim bit.









Semi Mockup









I was going through ideas of how to mount the amps with the provided feet. I didn't want a lot of MDF under there as it would make running the wires difficult and wouldn't look very good. Found some random L-brackets in a drawer and what do ya know, the holes pretty much matched up with the Nine.2x. Considering it destiny, I decided to use the L-brackets. Stronger than wood and lets me use nuts and bolts. Always a plus in my books.


















You can see my curves that aren't perfect here. I don't know why I didn't think of tracing the heatsink curve when I drew the template. At any rate, it won't show, but we'll just say it's for extra cooling.

Other side.









Quick shots in the car.

















The way the amp rack is built I don't feel it's necessary for all four mounting feet. This keeps the top of the amps, which will show, clean looking. The amps don't move at all.

I'll also be replacing those zinc phillips head for some socket head cap screws but just had those available.

I had to modify the L-brackets for the smaller amp. I simply clamped down the bracket and drilled with progressively larger bits until I reached the desired size. I used my jigsaw to cut the ends off with a Clean for Metal Bosch blade.

Today I'll be working on mounting the rings permanently as well as the amp rack cover.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Believe it or not, the arms holding up the Nine.2 do not touch the Nine.2x. I will most likely round the top of those arms, but am leaving as much material as possible for now in case things change. Easier to take away material than add it right?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Great work *****. I enjoy your build threads because you 'ain't scared' to try stuff. Keep it up. :thumbsup:


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## Thiagocaverna (Apr 1, 2009)

Owwwww .....Very good ..... man !!!!


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Very good looking.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I'm still worried that you have the woofers firing too much off of the rear hatch glass. The only way that I was able to get mine to sound good was firing backwards towards the bumper. the top of my box was about 4 inches shorter than the top and that was all the angle that it had.

If you don't get the bass response that you want at least you know where to start. do you not have a pre-fab box that you can throw in there firing in several different directions as a test???

BK


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

InjunV18 said:


> There's been a lot of sitting back and staring and thinking


no kidding,very clever....keep it up


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Bob, I do have a pre-fab. I'll give it a try on Monday. I haven't mounted the rings yet, so I still have the opportunity to do that. I thought a rear upward aiming was desired. Guess I didn't read quite closely enough. Thanks again.

Thanks for the rest of you guys support. It helps me have some extra confidence.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I think that your install looks great so far. I just would hate to see you go through all of the work to fab a wonderful looking install and not be happy with the sound of it.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

AudioBob said:


> I think that your install looks great so far. I just would hate to see you go through all of the work to fab a wonderful looking install and not be happy with the sound of it.


I really appreciate the insight. You'll see in the following pics the skeleton forming for the sub chambers and amp rack cover. I haven't stuck them in place yet as I was still playing with the rings. As you can see I have plenty of room to aim the subs to the back more than up. I actually makes things easier. I think I just got caught up in getting a very smooth flowing top and they started firing up more than back.



















Just for reference, the solid pieces will be the sides of the enclosure. The center ribs will be over the amps and removable. I have a neat way of integrating everything and it should be done next week. Thanks again for the support.


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## akanoon (Aug 12, 2008)

Looks good ***** - do you have enough room to get your RCAs and other cabling in between the amps and the sides of the enclosure?


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## talibmohamid (Dec 5, 2008)

Sweet Ride man....always wanted a 5.0....man....good luck


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## RedlineNtrllDrop (Apr 6, 2009)

talibmohamid said:


> Sweet Ride man....always wanted a 5.0....man....good luck


for the right price, it's always for sale 

I cant wait till it's finished... I miss my baby


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

There should be plenty of room for the wires. Those sides of the enclosure are a few inches away from the ends of the amps.


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## Badmunky (Mar 9, 2009)

Vary nice looking install man! 
I had a 5.0 5-mt back in the say my self.
Well at least it started as a 5.0. I dropped a 5.7 in there and had a lot of fun with that car.
It was an 89 5.0 LX notch back when I started. 

Later.


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## saleen8905 (Jan 9, 2009)

Loving this build. Can't wait for more pics.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Really cool work so far.


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## SubNit (Nov 5, 2008)

One of the few mustangs I can actually appreciate

Your fab skills are far behond my own so +1 there. Looking foward to some more pics


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Thanks for all the kind words guys. Here's a few updates as I got the rings set, the fleece pulled and the resin laid. Tomorrow will be a glass day. There are a few low spots that I will need to fill but couldn't really determine a practical way to do so before the fleece. Also, under the center section (amp rack cover) are 1/8" hardboard sheets cut to the correct dimensions since we know that glass prefers curves. Hope things come together well in the next few days.

Rings set in place

















Also glassed the inside of the box on the humps before setting the rings. Three layers of glass there.

















Once I was happy with the rings I tacked the fleece in.

















Then laid a coat of resin over the fleece.









Lot of work from here. About 3-4 layers of glass, depending on thickness maybe about 2 more. Filling the low spots and sanding. Then making sure everything is very well sealed. Looks like I'll get close to .85 cubes per driver. May need to stuff some polyfill in each one to get the desired volume.

I'm not going into much detail here, but if anyone has any questions please feel free to ask. It's late and I don't want to type with my usual description until the enclosure is done. I like the majority of the look of it. I have a few trouble spots I may change before everything is done.

Thanks again for the compliments and I hope this will be done for you soon.


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## jowens500 (Sep 5, 2008)

Your box looks like Mickey Mouse ears. All kidding aside, nice work.


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## SubNit (Nov 5, 2008)

jowens500 said:


> Your box looks like Mickey Mouse ears. All kidding aside, nice work.


He's right you know

Can't wait to see the finished product. I'm definatley getting inspired for my next FG build by threads like this one

Keep it up


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

I kinda thought someone would mention that. Preciate it guys.


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

SUX 2BU said:


> IMO the best door panels ever made were the pre-fab ones I had made by Scosche or was it Soundquest? They were called Audioforms. The entire setup in the back was removable as 1 piece and connected with quick-connectors.


See this?: ** door speaker enclosure**


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Nice find. Hope someone can make use of them. This car will be done Wednesday so there are a lot of pics to add. I'll put some up tomorrow afternoon. Basically all that's changed is about 3 layers of glass on the box, and the doors have been deadened. Also found matching vinyl to finish things up.


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Sorry to jack the thread on you InjunV18, build is looking excellent, btw!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Oh, no worries. If someone is looking for a solution to their mustang and finds it here then it's great. They got what they wanted and they checked out our build. Win-win. Now I have to go work on the enclosure.... hopefully for the last time.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Wow . . . completely blows the install in my 91 LX drop-top out of the water. That is some mad skills there sir. I REALLY want to see how all of this turns out.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

The Dude said:


> See this?: ** door speaker enclosure**


That's a pretty trippy design. Wonder who built those.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Chithead, hopefully you're talkin about what I've got done. If so thanks for the kind words. If you're referencing the red stang above, then that's SUX2BU's work and he deserves the credit. 

As for this stang, it's gettin there. Just opened up the speaker holes in the enclosure and am starting some finishing work. It's gonna take a while to get that done I think but things are looking good. I'ma try and get some pics.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Talking about you sir! Awesome job. I really like the craftsmanship going into your panels and sub enclosure/amp rack.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

No "sir" necessary. Hope to see you at the meet in a month. I'm going to try hard to have my Pathfinder done by then. Maybe I can get the owner of the Stang to come down from Raleigh for fun.


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## RedlineNtrllDrop (Apr 6, 2009)

InjunV18 said:


> No "sir" necessary. Hope to see you at the meet in a month. I'm going to try hard to have my Pathfinder done by then. Maybe I can get the owner of the Stang to come down from Raleigh for fun.


When and where is the meet? I'd probably be down with bringin the stang... just lemme know

Lets see some updates!!!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Hey bud, the meet is in Cornelius on the 29th of May. I'll give you some more details as they come in. Anyway, got some more sanding done. Snapped a few pics as I was going. Left side is kitty hair, right side has first sand done. As of now total box has been kitty haired and sanded. Tomorrow I'll add the final filler layer to smooth it all out and then cover it with vinyl. The yellow you see inside the box is great stuff insulation foam. I covered all the seams with resin, then kitty hair, and then great stuff. I wanted to be sure about the integrity of the seal.


































I'll have some pics of the deadener tomorrow. The sanding and smoothing is very time consuming. I need a belt sander FOR REAL!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Wow the pics suck, haha. Sorry for the poor quality. I'll get some tomorrow with the gf's camera. She's got a nice point and shoot that'll help the visuals. It really is smoother than it looks.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Resurrecting this:

First, let's talk about the progress. The door pods fit with no vinyl. After I wrapped them, there was some rubbing. A lot of rubbing actually. My bad, epic fail. So I had to pull the vinyl and trim the top of the hump. The following pic is of the pre-trimmed pod. No creases, no seams or wrinkles. Lots of sweat, pulling, and a heat gun in combination with the Genco spray adhesive and staples made it work. Oh and two friends.


























The grills and rings were painted to match the vinyl. Just got lucky with a rattle can from Home Depot.

Best spray adhesive I've ever used from a local upholstery shop. They have a website so if you're looking, it's definitely worth it. Much better than 3M products.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Now here's a disclaimer. The install is done, finished, looks pretty good and sounds great. Very loud, but plenty clear. But I don't have many pics. I'll be getting some soon, but you'll just have to do wait. Hope you like them.


































Beauty backer board. He can disconnect the x-overs and d-blocks and the box is removable. Well, also with the removal of 2 grade 8 bolts in the amp area that are bolted to the false floor.


















I'll be getting more pics in a few weeks of the entire install. Just ran out of time and daylight. Plus, these are just from the phone so we'll get some real camera pics next time.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

very nice.......wish i could be there on the 29th


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## BKJT05 (Apr 10, 2007)

ur work looks great! here is a pic of a local guys 88 stang. my buddy owns a local shop and he did this.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

^ That's cool. I've always wanted to do rounded enclosure like that in a hatchback. 

Nice work, *****.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> very nice.......wish i could be there on the 29th


Me too man, if you get back to Charlotte we need to get up this time. Have fun in Hawaii.



BKJT05 said:


> ur work looks great! here is a pic of a local guys 88 stang. my buddy owns a local shop and he did this.
> 
> That is quite impressive. We did have to retain the spare though. If not, this would've been about 85% stealth a la bing.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

speaking of the stealthmaster...i may get the chance to meet the big man on saturday....i have time to kill so i will drive up to the nor-cal meet ,this saterday.
fun in hawaii is being on vacation....working there is torture.lol

i am looking at grills for the door that you made....i may try a variation on that for my doors. if i ever get back home.....


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## Kerpal (Jan 27, 2009)

Wow, I'm studying this thread closely since I have a '90 Mustang GT. The foxes are definitely a challenge with the extremely shallow doors and somewhat limited hatch space. At least they're small enough that all you really need is a simple system properly installed. 

I love what you did with the door panels, I've been wanting to do something very similar with mine. Too bad my install skills are nothing even close to yours... my car is basically a progression of installs, each one slightly less ugly than the one before it...


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Kerpal said:


> Wow, I'm studying this thread closely since I have a '90 Mustang GT. The foxes are definitely a challenge with the extremely shallow doors and somewhat limited hatch space. At least they're small enough that all you really need is a simple system properly installed.
> 
> I love what you did with the door panels, I've been wanting to do something very similar with mine. Too bad my install skills are nothing even close to yours... my car is basically a progression of installs, each one slightly less ugly than the one before it...


Kerpal, tell me about the shallow doors. That was the biggest challenge as simple as they look. At least I had free reign with the cargo area. 

I will say, don't give me so much credit. You can totally attempt something of this nature without too much trouble. All you need is patience and some time. A decent jigsaw and a router wouldn't help. Each piece was duplicated off one single template. After that it wasn't too bad. 

Thanks for the compliments guys.


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## Strtsk8r321 (Mar 16, 2009)

i love all the custom work! always appreciate custom panels and boxes!


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## Kerpal (Jan 27, 2009)

*****, any tips on how you sound deadened this car? I'm in that stage of my install at the moment. Doing a basic layer of mass deadener & a layer of foil-backed barrier foam on top of that on the interior floorpan. Wondering if I should extend the barrier onto the rear seat area & hatch?

Wondering if there would be any benefit to filling the front seat supports (on the floorpan) with foam? They are sturdy but hollow. Also the side 'wall' of the floorpan, the 3-4" tall part below the doors, seems to be a hollow area. Seems like filling that could be beneficial, but it is a very large space. I think you would need to use foam designed specifically for car chassis on that area.

I would also like to foam the underside of the center console where it is hollow, just to make it feel more sturdy. I'm sure you noticed how flimsy it is. Any thoughts on that?


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Wow, that would be a significant amount of deadening. I kept it to a minimum on this vehicle as he didn't want to add a large amount of weight. I think overall we added about 100 lbs and about 80 is completely removable by taking out the enclosure. The main spots we hit were the doors, the rear cargo floor and the area under the spoiler. There's a very unsecured plastic trim piece there that is suspect to loud vibrations. It's like Ford forgot a few screws or something. If you really want to make it dead as you described it would be your best bet to talk to Foosman as he has the mega fox install. I do agree with you though, they aren't made to eliminate much noise. In fact, I believe it was quite the contrary.

Good luck and I look forward to your install. I know that wasn't a terrible amount of help, but deadening wasn't a major focus. I believe the foam most people use in the car is the soft great stuff (blue can) Be sure to let it cure a day or more before you mess with it though. You can also get adequate results from stuffing the voids with padding or foam blocks. That way you can remove them, just in case.


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## BubbaDeuces (Mar 30, 2009)

I've actually been keeping up with this build. My buddy has a 95 5.0 mustang that I absolutely love. So of course after seeing a 92 (hey atleast it's got a 5.0) I had to check it out.
Thought I'd say great work, and keep it up in future installs.


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## Kerpal (Jan 27, 2009)

Yeah, I'm trying to make my car a bit more livable since I drive it a ton. I'm not as worried about weight but I love how your entire enclosure/amp rack lifts out in one piece. Definitely something I'd like to try to build in the future.

I'll have to check out Foosman's install, thanks for the tip. The factory sound deadening on these cars is definitely minimal. The area where the rear passengers' feet rest is bare sheetmetal as is most of the hatch area, and the doors really have no deadening either. As for that that plastic trim piece in the hatch I removed it a long time ago because it looked like it would vibrate, but I might deaden it and put it back now.

Did deadening the doors make them feel more solid or get rid of any outside noise? I'm doing those later on but they seem like another problem area.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

The doors are much more solid, but I didn't get enough listening time to give you a complete review. I also didn't get to go for a ride once the install was complete to hear the total package so not sure about how much road noise was affected. I can say the knock test showed a definite difference. The midbass response was rather impressive though once the doors were semi sealed.


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## adrian (Mar 7, 2009)

looks wonderful


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## lsm (Mar 11, 2009)

Nice old school Mustang! I installed systems in a lot of those cars back in the day.


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## victor's gt (Dec 4, 2009)

subscribing...any updates?


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Victor, not really as I haven't seen the car in about 7 months! I'll probably see the owner one of these days and check how things are. Maybe then I can take some better final pics. Sorry for the disappointment.


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## aphexacid (Oct 24, 2009)

I'd love to see some final pictures as well. Amazing work man!


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

when i had my '88 GT it had manual windows and the window track wasn't behind the speaker location like the power windows so i had no issues with mounting my speakers. I really miss my car and am liking this build, looks great so far. You are doing good work.


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## Svendingo (Jun 17, 2008)

Good showing man. Your amp rack is very similar to what I have in my head for my trunk mounted one. The main difference is mine will hinge for access to wiring connections and gains. If I end up keeping my 91 coupe, I'll steal a good bit of your door panel fab. (is it theft when you give a warning?)


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