# Kickin it old school...1996 Impala SS SQ install :)



## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

Been a while since i posted an install, acutally had two back to back big projects, the first one i never got a chance to take completed pics since i am waiting for a photoshoot...

this is the second one 

after working on relatively compact imports for so long, it was a nice change of pace to do a big old school american sedan...the car is a 1996 Chevy Impala SS. asbolutely mint car with 17k miles on it! 

the goals:

1. created a very good sound quality vehicle with the goals of competing next season. the goal also is to have some very decent low end output 

2. utilize equipment that the customer already had (HU, two of the amps etc) with new gear 

3. as far as cosmetics go...the original plan was just for a very simple and plain setup, rearward facing subbox and in floor amp rack, with carpet...

but...somewhere in between taking the interior apart and running wires, i realized just how mint the car is...i mean, not a single screw or clip was distrubed, not a single piece of debris under the back seats...the floor mats appears to have NEVER been taking from the car...the car is 100 percent like new condition...

couple that with the fact that i really like this gen impala SS, i decided on myself to do something extra for hte customer interms of looks hehe

4. having said that, the goal cosmetic wise for me then became doing an install that was both clean and cool, but also in the same theme as the vehicle itself. unlike most of my past jobs, this car was unique in that it was niether a show car nor a daily driver. the car is basicaly 100 percent stock with the only mod being a very moderate cat back exhaust system...so i didnt want to over do the cosmetics side to the point that it looked out of place. 

stealthiness or usability of the trunk was NOT a consideration, as the car basically never gets driven, only weekend cruises and maybe to comps next year 

so...enough backstory, lets get on with it:

gonna include a crap load of pics since i need to make a log book later on for him.

the first shot is of the battery. a HD replacement battery was provided by the customer, to whcih i added the positive battery terminal and the dual 150 amp circuit breakers. dual 0 gauge power cables were run back to the trunk. and a single 8 guage cable goes to the HU power supply. hard to see but all terminals are coated with terminal grease. (the stock wiring attaches to the side posts as usual)










moving into the interior, the signal starts off with a clarion 9255 headunit, we are using it purely as a high end signal source, not any of its IMO limited and extremely hard to use internal processing. the customer provided htis unit.










two quick shots of hte wiring harness and installation of the HU:



















the power supply for the 9255 i mounted securely in the glovebox, about hte only place i found that was open and have enough space to mount solidly. cables pass through grommets. also note the USB tuning cable for the zapco DSP6 in the glovebox, to whcih we add an extension and tune.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

the front stage consists of a set of Seas Lotus Reference 6.5" two way components, the midbass was installed into the door, new wires ran into the door of coures. 

most of the door received a layer of foam to block road noise, and normal damping material was used around the speaker itself. a baffle was made up to house the 6.5" in the stock 4x6" hole after some minor metal trimming:










close up of hte baffle and the SS pad behind it:










wiring of the speaker:










and with the midbass installed:



















the door car recieved its layer of damping as well:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

same goes for the passenger door:














































perhaps its a testament of how well the car was kept, but unlike many other GM cars i have worked on of this vintage, the doors came out 100 percent rattle free...even under high midbass output.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

next comes the tweeters, which were molded semi-on axis facing the opposite listener, and trimmed in factory matching vinyl:





































a quick shot of the front:










some quick build pics of the pillars...

first the mold was made, and then reinforced from the inside with a resin/duraglass "milkshake", hence the blue color...

somewhere along the lines, while lying in the sun, one of the pillars long thin extension inexplicably warped...so i cut it off, and made my own thin strip out of mdf that is separate from the pillar itself.










next the pillars were blended and sanded smooth:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

then the vinyl went on...since i now went back to spraying HHR top trim adhesive out of an airgun, i can finally not worry about heat related failures anymore lol




























wiring of the tweeters:



















and a quick shot of the laptop tuning of the zapco DSP6 processor:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

onto the wiring:

the dual 0 gauge cables were routed through the factory harness grommet:










while the 8 guage power cable for the 9255 went throught its own grommet on the passenger side:










the power cables and the driver side speaker wire went down the driver side of the vehicle, both are ziptied at 6" or less:



















here is where this bundle passes into the trunk, the cables are wrapped in foam and secured to the metal to prevent slicing:










the signal and speaker wires, along with USB cable and remote wire, went down the passenger side, same deal as the driver side:



















the rear deck speakers were removed and the deck treated with sound proofing:



















and the stock speaker grilles were dampened as well to prevent buzzing:










onec again, i was totally suprised at the lack of rattles coming from the rear deck...


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

now...moving onto the trunk...so here is the theme i came up with.

the idea is to do an "old school" boxed trunk type of design that showcases the subs and the amps. using a mixture of dark grey carpet and lighter gray vinyl (same as interior colors), i hoped to achieve a look that is mild, but classy and blends well with the vehicle.

on the front wall facing rearward, are two IDmax12 subs in a 2.7 cubft sealed enclosure. on the floor, there are three zapco competition amps. two of them, a 9.0 poewring the subs with 2200 watts, and a 6.0 sending 150 watts to each tweeter, was provided by the customer.

this is why these two amps are mismatched, as the 9.0 is of an older vintage. we will be swapping that out with a new 9.0 in the near future for a fully matched look 

the remaining amp, a 4.0, is bridged on the midbass, sending 300 watts RMS to each of the lotus 6.5"s.

the entire theme of carpet and vinyl on the same plane is kept throughout the trunk, same goes for the meshed vent theme. 

the two side pieces hide the power/ground setup and DSP6, which i will show later.

though its hard to see, i also rewrapped the stock carpet on the back wall with the same material, so when the trunk is open, everyhting is the same color 

anyway, enough talking, here are the pics of the finished trunk:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)




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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

now comes the build pics of the trunk, first the subbox is in place and the wiring bundle passes on either side:




























here is the beauty board that goes infront of the subbox, two pieces that fit together:










one trimmed in vinyl and the other in carpet, and then attached together with mesh added. black grille cloth is placed on the back of the mesh so you cant see through it:










so here comes the fun part.

the customer also provided me with a smaller battery to put into the trunk, and with so many cables and such high power requirements, i decided the best course of action was to make a bussbar.

so here are the two bussbars i made using aircraft grade aluminum bars, i drilled them and put 5/16" and 1/4" bolts. i chose the coated aluminum bar so it would stand up to corrosion and ground away the surfaces where the terminals go in.










so this is the rack on the driver side behind the cover panel.

it houses the second battery, along wtih the two bussbars, one for power and one for ground, and also a 3 in 3 out fused distribution block for the amps.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so here is the thing wired up outside the car...all power and all grounds go to the buss bar, then output to the amps:














































once again, grease was used on all terminals.

then this was secured to the car, and poewr/ground cables that comes from the caritself is attached to the bussbars:










once again, the grease:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

i grounded the system to the vehicle frame, using a stock bolt, i ground way the coating to reveal bare metal:










then the gorunding cable was attached:










sprayed wtih truck bed liner:










and rounted into the trunk via grommet:










while the top was sealed up with silicone:










compared to the craziness of the driver side, the passenger rack, whcih houses just the dsp6, looks very simple. but of course the goal is to keep signal and power as far apart as possible:


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

now comes some wiring pics, of each amp and the entire set up, everyhting is bundled and organized. no flying wires


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

finally, the two side pieces wer build in the same manner as the front one:



















and the floor:



















phew, that was it...

overall, i am very happy with it both cosmetically and sonically.

infact, perhaps as a result of the equipment used, and the great interior (wide, fully open and almost flat dash), i strongly believe that wtih some more tuning...this could end up being one of the top 3 best sounding cars i have ever done...perhaps even close to being the best...

boy that was a long post, time to go to dinner, talk to you guys soon


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

Looks great, Bing!
Looking at your crimped terminals, do you use Channel-Lock brand crimpers? The blue handled ones? Your crimps look just like mine and I've been using Channel-Locks instead of Kleins for 20+ years. 

You mention swapping the one amp out for a newer one, is the only difference the different Zapco badge?
The reason I ask is I have 2 of the black plastic Zapco badges stuck on one of my tool boxes. They're a little faded but I can pick them off and send them to you if you want to use them to make the other 2 amps match the one with the black badge. Just a thought. Come to think of it you probably have extra ones but I figured I'd offer.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice job. I like those cars to work on. One of my favorite installs I ever did was a '96 Imp SS, where I cut all the ribbing out of the rear deck, sandwiched it between 3/4 and 1/2 MDF and put 3 10" JL Marine woofers on it. It was the only free air sub available to us at the time...and it had the best bass response of any car I've ever builtm including my own. They're fun cars with lots of room.

Jay


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## Kenny_Cox (Sep 9, 2007)

:sigh:

Bing is awesome, this guy has too many C2K's, ask him if he wants a matching 6.0 lol.


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## Zorasmiles (May 1, 2008)

awesome and clean install..tons of pics to luv..thanks for the build post!


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## SlipAngle (Oct 2, 2009)

Great looking install! Another great example to inspire me for the job I've got coming up very soon on my own vehicle. I am sure the owner is glad he had you knock this out for him.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

God I love these Impalas. Great work BTW.


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

Love it Bing That trunk is sexy!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thanks guys.

about the old vs new c2ks.

i thought its just the badge and the black inserts, but as it turns out...

its the chasis that is painted black on the old ones, grey/silver on the new ones. and there are acutally enough differences in the board and internal layout that swapping the internals to a new chasis is a mindnumbing amount of work...

i have had my crimpers for so long i forgot what brand they were...all i know is that the strap-on ones i had many many years back were terrible lol


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Why zip tie the wires every 6 inches if they are not zip tied to the car every 6 inches? And not a t-nut or a threaded insert anywhere to be seen.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

You have no fusing for the rear battery. And there is not any venting for the battery in the rear. The rear battery is not by any means secured properly either.

If you plan on competing, I really would address those issues. Cause if I were judging your car, you would get new ones torn for the battery stuff like that...cause that car is a serious fire hazard.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thanks bud for the suggestions...

agreed on the fusing on the rear battery, will add that in for sure. but as far as it being a serious fire hazard... either way, i will put in a fuse back there for sure.

the rear battery was thrown into the plans sorta last minute...and my inexperience with it definetly shows  as far as the venting goes and securing goes, we talked about it, and didnt want to do do any more cutting in the car, afterall, it was my impression that the most you can deduct is 5 pts? the battery was given to me a week into the install, and with only a 10 day time slot (keeping in mind that the car was supposed to be a very simple intsall, non competition), i couldnt find a box that can properly accomodate that tiny battery...so i made the decision to make a hold down out of 3/4" MDF whcih IMO, is plenty strong (at least as strong as the stock tie down system under the hood) for daily driving safety needs.

i also wasnt aware taht tnuts and threaded insert is a REQUREMENT to get points in competition? i completely understand where you are coming from in regards to judging and docking, but give it a break, sq comps arent popular here...and i try to support guys like Todd by trying to get customers to go compete. most of them, prior to getting their car done, have never heard of or have any desire to do this "competition" thing. 

IMO, if you hold everyone out here by the same standards as back east or back in the day, no one would want to get into it either beucase it just too darn intimidating or too expesnve to perform such an install.

afterall, i myself have always said, if installs such as my own car gets judged back east, it wouldnt even stand a chance. but out here, i think the important thing is to encourage people to get into the hobby of sq comps, to build a base. not to hit them over the head with the rule book and scare them away. 

but again, i think you are totally right, i will make some changes for sure.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

by the way, if you came out west to judge us, i think most of us would just all go compete in SQC instead of SQi 

IMO there is a reason why very few people bother with sqi anymore out here...espeically in the rookie class


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I think the vent holes can be small. When I had a rear mounted battery, I think all I was required to have was 1/2" vent...so I used 2 1/4" tubes. But I think the venting is a bit silly with AGM batteries. They don't off gas enough to be dangerous. Just one of those hoops you have to jump through for the rule book you know? I sure don't agree with some of the stuff in there, but you have to do it if you want to compete and win...like the damned zip tied wires every 2 inches. From a practical point of view it doesn't make sense. The car's harnesses aren't secured like that, it would make serviceability a pain in the ass. 

As far as the t-nuts or nutcerts, I think that can all go back to serviceability. There is only so many times you can put a screw in wood before you have to either make a new hole or use a larger screw. In regards to the speakers, there are some judges who will not give any points for speakers installed with stingers or wood screws...they say it's not a proper method of mounting equipment, nor does it provide theft resistance (yeah, that's something else to get me started on). And tnuts are pretty cheap at Mcmaster.

Just make sure you can get to all of the fusing in the car within the allotted amount of time. You need 3 more fuses in the back- 2 going to the buss bar from the battery in the front and one going between the buss bar and the rear battery.

I just don't know how sound a MDF battery box would be if the car got in an accident....my guess is not very. It needs a metal tie down and be secured to the car's chassis/trunk directly.

I know it's only a few points here and there on the score sheet, but having lost Finals by about 3 points...I tend not to give up any where you don't have to.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

It's happening out here too. Generally if people don't have to do install judging, then they won't. Which I can really understand because there are some pretty dumb rules in the IASCA rule book.



simplicityinsound said:


> by the way, if you came out west to judge us, i think most of us would just all go compete in SQC instead of SQi
> 
> IMO there is a reason why very few people bother with sqi anymore out here...espeically in the rookie class


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

glad we are acutally on the same page Jason...again, i totally agree, the lack of fusing on the back battery was a total oversight on my part, and i iwll get that added in ASAP...

as for the other stuff...here is my take:

1. you need a 1/2" hole now? damn and i was thinking i needed only a 1/4" hole with tube, and i was also under the impression that to get hte points, it needs to be in a sealed case? both were things that we didnt have time or budget to do. i told the customer this, and said he would lose 5 pts if it came to be judged, and we agreed thats fine. but i didnt see the point of doing the venting if we dont have a sealed box. ...and you sorta said what i was gonna say regarding hydrogen gas build up on this battery...

2. tied down every 8" or less, again, you are right, according to the rulebook, i think you need to secure it to the car itself every 8" or less, though i am not sure if rookie class goes by that. but to be honest, i think thats dumb, when i have a car that doesnt have a stock loom going back in a convineient location (such as this one), i would imagine doing some sort of permenant (screw or bolt) tie downs is perhaps the only acceptable way of securing the bundle? or you have to find stock bundle and wire tie to it...? i am not going to strip the interior to secure it to a loom beucase IMO, having easy access to the wiring bundle is important for any future trouble shooting, diagnosis, and perhaps replacement labor that one may have to encounter. i never wire tie a bundle throughout the car, beucase i think it just going to make life hell when you are tryint to figure out whcih cable is going bad and having to unsnip it all. i for one, dont see how a tightly ziptied bundle of cables, under the carpet, can go anywhere even without a ziptie hold it to the car 

3. as far as the battery goes, on the security front i know of course metal is stronger than MDF...but...IMO if an impact is hard enough to destroy the MDF and battery, i dont think a metal tie down, at least most normal ones i have seen, will hold up at all either. and the front stock hold down definetly wont hold, its just a piece of plastic wtih as single bolt and plastic ledge. again, not saying there isnt a better way of doing it such going for a HD sealed box etc etc...but IMO...very little difference in real everyday life. 

but dont be so quick to discount the strengths of the mighty MDF lol...had a customer with a extended cab ranger once, i did a full length subbox behind the front seat, just very simple box, all MDF. anyway, the guy was tboned on the passenger side by someone who ran the redlight, the other vehicle was a van or suv i think, and was flooring it to make the light, probably nailed him going 45. i saw pics of the truck...it got hit squarely in the cabin. the front fender, front passenger door, floor all buckled, then furthre back, miraculously the extended cab section was much more intact. somehow, the mdf box managed to hold. sure it cracked and crumbled, but it held the basic shape...the paramedic said withou the box there, the side wall could have really came into his side of hte cab and he may have gotten really seriously hurt. totally true story here 

4. screws...again, totally agree wtih you there t nuts and thread is better than screws...but hey i do have all pan head screws in there. no deck screws except one or two holding non structural pieces  as far as servicability goes...for me at least, most of hte part wont ever come out...and for things like a speaker baffle is concerned, making a new one is a pretty simple job no? for me, what i dont get of course is if one say this is for the sake of servicability, then, i dont see why my point about NOT having to tie down the wiring bundle to the car isnt the same point. having a bundle that is easily within reach is IMO much better for servicibility 

anyway, basically, what i am saying is i guess the goals are different. just remember, the goal first and foremost is having a nice sounding car IMO...and to be honest, competing out here in cali...even on the install side, the bar is low enough that IMO its fine...when everyone has got the same type of things, and you arent ever trying to go to finals or win every round...etc...whats the big deal?  to me, in order for people to want to go to competitions, it has to be for fun first and foremost, the desire to win drives some of us, but for most of us, i think it needs to be fun.

btw, long time no talk man, do you still remmeber meeting up that one time over at Jason Ewing's shop in PA?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

p.s. Jason, i am not arguing AGAINST you at all here...just lamenting on parts of the rule book that i dont agree with when it comes to the real world.


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## DJTrevLuv (Apr 15, 2008)

Great install! :thumbsup:


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## RBU911 (Mar 28, 2008)

*I've been stuck on my "Rookie" install on my own Impala for a while now, and for some reason I check out the DIYMA Build Logs, WOW !

​
 and it's the first thread ! You've got PM *


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

nice install Bing! I almost purchased a 96 Impala in 2000. the trend for competitions is sq only. Look at the west coast. Most guys only compete in 1 seat sq. Meca seems to have it figured out by allowing classes for sq only by division, install only, and both. I think some of the rules in Iasca are silly as well.....but if you want to play in the game, you gotta know the rules


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

for sure jim...

and i for one would have no problems with docking pts as suggested by Jason 

for me though, i am trying to get as many people into the sq comps as possible, and for guys who previously had no interest or knowledge of it, and i say, well, if you really wnat to win nationally, you gotta do all these things, whcih will cost x amount more, or else dont bother, i think it would turn a lot of them away?  as most of them probably never venture beyond a few local shows here and there. i remember the first few shows tihs year, rookie SQi would have a handful if not more competitors, nowadays, there would be only one or two...same goes for norcal, first santa rosa show, rookie class was packed, the next time, two people...

and my point is that you can perfectly have fun and "play in the game", without having an install that is 100 percent up to code to the rules. there is always the sq side and out here, very few people (excusing people like you and aubrey for example) has an install that is totally up to code anyway 

if i get someone who is ever that serious about doing iasca, i will be sure to do hit all the points in the rule book 

see you this weekend my man


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## lai96ss (Nov 15, 2007)

Hi everyone, I just want to chime in a little about the car. First, I would like to thank Bing for the amazing install and the people at Zapco for giving me a warranty repair on the zapco 9.0 amp. The car have a lot of clarity and that was my goal, just clear loud sound. I am really impress with all the hard work and detail that Bing put into the car.
I owe you one big time ,Bing! I am also looking forward to seeing some of you guys car at future events!
Lai


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thanks Lai, hopefully you can make it to the norcal meet coming up in a coupla weeks 

b


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## jorona1 (Dec 6, 2008)

Details, details. Funk that! Dude this is a beautiful install. Nice work.


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## lai96ss (Nov 15, 2007)

Bing, I should be able to make it to the nor cal meet. I will talk to you later about it.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

my biggest concern with the install is exposed 12v across the entire buss bar.
Based on the pictures provided--when trim panel is off for servicing or whatever, what prevents a tool, wire strand or anything from shorting across the exposed 12v and ground?

Install itself is great--but there are some simple things that could be addressed to maximize points if he wanted to compete. 5 pts can be the difference between 1st and 2nd---in 03 and 04 I lost finals b/c of a 6pt noise deduction bc I was analog into the H-700 and got hit for floornoise.

You could make a removable MDF piece to cover the buss bar or plexi, you could use large clear corner edging...etc....

so along with battery venting-thats really the only major concern I see.

Panhead screws are fine. Problem is with drywall or tapered head screws bc not enough surface area making contact with the object (in theory)


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thats a good point mic. i will look into building some kind of cover for the bussbars...

this is i think the seocnd time ever i hae made a bussbar, so...didnt cross my mind  as for gas venting, do these types of batteries really give off much gas?

thanks again.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

simplicityinsound said:


> thats a good point mic. i will look into building some kind of cover for the bussbars...
> 
> this is i think the seocnd time ever i hae made a bussbar, so...didnt cross my mind  as for gas venting, do these types of batteries really give off much gas?
> 
> thanks again.


honestly no. but its just one of those things u do bc its written in black and white that you need to do it.
Unless you have some creative way of presenting what you did like by simple saying " as you can see the battery was properly vented to the outside" and leave it at that. Dont go into details etc....just provide a pic of some form of venting. The fact that you presented "something" that covers the basics of the rule, majority of judges arent looking to bust balls by scrutinizing pictures.

also, how is the DC converter for the head unit mounted? is it physically mounted with anything? velcro, monkey spunk (butyl) and hot glue do not count as sufficient mounting (ask Ewing)
just for ****s and giggles. I'd either black tape or loom or both or black tape,loom, retape w cloth tape the wires from Head unit to Dc converter and the head unit wires.

or

Next time dont mention competition when you post your installs--youll get all us East Coast Anal Install competitors and Judges eye balling your **** with a microscope:laugh:


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## jpswanberg (Jan 14, 2009)

Bing, great job as always. Quick question knowing that you've used the SEAS comps and the ID subs before: how doea the C2K compare to the Digital reference series SQ wise?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah Mic, point well taken, i think next time, i will make a point of saying, semi-chill-comp-cali style or something hehe basically, most of the cars that i built that go compete, they are 90 percent for the owners enjoyment, and 10 percent to go compete once in a while  or i will just say it will compete mostly in SQC.

but i like to include it in my post to try to motivate others to join the sq comp. so hopefully you east coast guys can understand where i am coming from? because i normal circumstances...building a full on IASCA comp car to high standards, is hardly a 10 day job like this one  

gosh, i cant believe i am saying "you east coast guys" i havent been gone that long...i can still remember you dragging my fresh-out-of-knee-surgery ass out to copilot with you driving down to ashville lol...


but guys, i think you are already scaring him away from entering comps lol


onto the question of comps versus DC...from a pure amplification standpoint, i definetly think the comps are a step up from the DC...i mean, they should be, at twice to thrice the cost and no internal processing.

i immediatly could tell a difference when i powered it on the first time and was listening for about 10 mins...and the difference is a bit more more noticable when pushing realy hard on songs with a lot of fine detail...

soyeah, IMO a noticable difference, is it worth the extra money? thats for you to decide


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

There is no IASCA out here. MECA is the big organization and right now its here to stay
best part about MECA---each category is individual.
If you want to compete in Sound only-Bingo
Install only-Bingo
RTA only--bingo
SPL......you get the point

Once MECA hits CA--u wont have to worry so much about these silly rules unless your guys do Install, which even at that--it isnt as anal as some IASCA and especially USaci judges have been

Asheville was FUN!!!! I still think about that and many trips
Youve come along way..I guess we both have


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah, i am hoping for MECA out here too...just gotta reread the rules.

that trip would have been more fun if my new stiches wasnt tearing out lol

if i visit PA sometime i will be sure to look you up. got some friends living not too far from york.


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## ReloadedSS (Aug 26, 2008)

Bing, great install as always. Love these cars, probably goes back to my days in public safety... One of my favorite installs was Earl Wills' Impala SS; this is right up there. Very sweet gear, clean install. No nitpicking from me, as this is beyond my current skillset.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

one of my all time favorite installs is steve cornell's impala SS, the seond to last and the last iterations in particular...had the pleasure of meeting steve and checking out the car in person many years ago...gosh...awesome!


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## F1Audio (Jun 5, 2009)

Awesome work as usual! Rules schmules. SQ comps. should judge SQ!! PERIOD!! They need a class for "Install OCD" for all the zip ties, t-nuts, tech flex, and all the other junk that has zero effect on SOUND QUALITY!


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## galegorafa (Jul 22, 2009)

Nice work Bing.....
as you always made. Congratulations

Unfortunately you could not order that IDQ10V3 to my friend buy for me ... Looking for yet


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

damn man i need your vision. there kick ass.


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## HALMTZ (Jun 23, 2008)

wow...super clean install, u give me a good idea about the power distribution...clean and simple... BUT NOT EASY!!! 

EXCELENTE!!!

hal mtz


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## alan412 (Sep 7, 2009)

Very impressive build


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

Fantastic, and a black cherry SS, the only color they should've been offered in if you ask me!!!


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## ejschultz (Oct 30, 2009)

My Caprice is jealous. That looks sick. Is there anyway we could possibly get a group buy on a set of A pillars? I realize this would be rather difficult because of tweeter sizes, but it's something a couple of people and I are interested in on an Impala forum.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

I've been waiting to read another build of your Bing! once again you haven't let us down. Nicely done and to your usually high standards.
Can we get more shots of the this immaculate car and install, perhaps in a larger resolution/size?


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## PGT FTW (Oct 19, 2009)

looks great, as always, Bing. Now I know why my door panels are taking me SO long!!


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## Shod (Oct 6, 2008)

dispite what some are saying this is another great and very insperational install from you Bing. I do have a question for you through! I have seen you use those circuit breakers in quite a few installs, do you like using those better than inline fuses and if so why?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, its simple, its much eaiser to disable power to the back, no tools needed, no unscrewing, just push a button and done, this means way less chance of someone shorting something when trying to remove a fuse from a holder  they are not cheap, but to me, well worth it 

b


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Bing,

I really enjoyed reading all this! To see what you have done in 
just a few days is an inspiration in itself. It really does motivate
me to really do something besides buy stuff and put it in a corner.
I do have many psychical limitations to overcome being disabled
but honestly, seeing this type of detail done in only 10 days is 
truly remarkable to me.....

Thanks for sharing this install with us!
Scott


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## orangelss (Dec 20, 2008)

Very nice install reminds me of a Late 90s IASCA install. Very nice.

Did you hear any problem when setting the car up with side bias. I know the zapco can correct alot of it, but most of the Impala's that used to compete had problem with sound stage accross that monster dash.

Again super nice and clean install!!


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## phxgold (May 29, 2009)

<<<<<<<<Blown away Nice work brother
My next car will be bought in San Jose and brought to you before delivery


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## ///Mpower (Oct 27, 2009)

May I ask what you used to hold down the beauty panels?

Awesome install


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## krouchchocolate (Jul 30, 2008)

always a fan of your work! How long does it usually take you to clean up the big mess in the trunk? So many wires!


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## jbholsters (Jun 17, 2009)

Nice clean install. That dash is screaming for horns though


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## bsully1850 (Apr 6, 2008)

Great install!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

thanks guys, to answer your questions:

1. all the panels are held down by screws and screw caps, most of them you cannot see as the next panel that goes on covers them, the visible ones are on the side panels and near the top of the sub trim. the floor piece is pressure fit 

2. it takes me a good day and a half to do all the wiring in the trunk in this car. acutally, organizing a mess of wires into something neater is probably one of the favorite aspects of installing for me, i find it very relaxing. though it does hurt the ribs quite a bit as i lean against the trunk opening for hours at a time doing it 

b


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## Monster (Oct 10, 2008)

Good looking install.


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## Damo98 (Mar 20, 2009)

awesome looking install.. 

pics probably wont do it justice, but sure looks nice...


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