# Old School LANZAR Opti lovers...



## smgreen20

I might get a lot of flak for this, but it needs to be said and backed up with proof.

I'm a huge fan of the old school ('92-97) LANZAR Opti series amps/subs. So I say this with love for this era LANZAR. 

The records need to be set straight and I'm going to do my best to prove what I've been saying in past threads. I am in the middle of going through 250+ issues of car audio mags to find any/all reviews I can of the LANZAR Opti amps. So far what I have found is the Opti2150, Opti500TMS, Opti50c. I know there's a review on the Opti200/Opti2200 (which are not the same amps believe it or not). I want to set the record straight as to their output and what people say about them being WAY under rated. 

This line/era of LANZAR is/was what got me into car audio. My first sub setup was two 12" LANZAR Pro's and a LANZAR LRX200 amp. So I saw this with love for this era Opti. 

As soon as I get all the reviews rounded up I will post my findings.


----------



## smgreen20

I can't find the review of the Opti200/2200.

So I'm going to start with the Opti2150 from the April '97 issue of AS&S, pg 26-28. Everything I post will be direct quotes from that issue. 

"If you are bulletproof can you simultaneously be lame? Sure could be, lots of cheap amps don't fail, but they don't hit either. The Opti2150 hits dead center. Rated for 75 watts, it puts out 76 watts just below clipping and just .0096% distortion. All the part and... ...pay off at 2 ohm stereo with an almost perfect doubling to 141 watts and .0235% distortion. The 4 ohm mono reading should be 141 + 141 and turns out at 280 watts and .0245%. This performance happens at any battery voltage above 11 volts and that's what tightly regulated means." 

Opti500TMS
October '95 AS&S issue, pg 31-32
"The high power numbers were outstanding; .010 at 2 x 260 watts into 4 ohm stereo and 2 x 507 watts at .020% into 2 ohm stereo. The 4 ohm mono results ran 1030 watts at .080% distortion. The guys at LANZAR said to do 2 ohms mono... ...even on this large a heat sink, requires a fan when driving 2 ohm stereo or less."

Numbers were not given at 2 ohm mono other then they said "Dynamic power was 2000 watts... ...draws 220 amperes at full power."


Opti50c
November '95 AS&S issue, pg 30-31
"Typical numbers for dampening like 200-500 are good and common, and anything over 100 is adequate but this amp does 16,000 and the power supply is like I said, tightly regulated. This combination of near perfect specs shows up in the power output like this:
4 ohm speakers/watts per speaker/ watts per channel
-------1---------/---------37--------/---------37---------
-------2---------/---------37--------/---------74---------
-------4---------/---------34.5------/---------138-------
-------8---------/---------32.5------/---------260-------
------16---------/--------25.5-------/--------408--------

All this power would be useless if distortion or noise was high, but the distortion was excellent at .0094% 1watts/1kHz and .028% 1watt/5kHz. Full power numbers at 4 ohm 37 watts ran .013 and even .25 ohm 408 watts was only .30%."




With this said, these amps ARE NOT WAY UNDER RATED, but infact almost balls on dead. I love these amps and they're built like tanks, but lets stop this over inflating of their power output. 



Now, for you old school MTX THUNDER peeps, those are under rated. A review I just read a Thunder2300 did 876 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms, MTX rates this amp at 600 x 1 @ 4 ohms, 750 watts dynamic and at .018% distortion. Another review I read on a 2160 did 494 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms. Distortion I don't recall. Lucky me, I have an 2300, but it needs repaired. At least I know what happened to it and how to get it fixed.

I also have an Opti150 in working order, but would like to find that (I believe it's the Opti200) review of the Opti2200/200. IIRC the original Opti releases were unregulated. ???


----------



## smgreen20

Just found a review on the Opti2100 in the CSR Jan/Feb '96 issue, pgs 91 and 92.
As the others very tightly regulated so the 12v and 14v powers are the same. 

33.3w x 2 @ 8 ohms
64.1w x 2 @ 4 ohms
122.7w x 2 @ 2 ohms
246.7 x 1 @ 4 ohms

This little bugger had a higher average output above rated then the others at 4 ohms x 1 ch.


----------



## Nicks84

I have an Opti-100 Plus and an Opti-200 Plus, both mint condition. I am a very big fan of these babies. Good luck in your search man. 

LOL< I think these and the White Mean Machines from Autotek will have always have a place in my heart till the end of time. Zed is so the man :bowdown:


----------



## smgreen20

Zed is not responsible for the Opti series amps we love. 

In about a month ot so I'll be looking for an Opti100Q.


----------



## smgreen20

Just had to add, 

I didn't find the 100Q, but I did find and bought the Opti160. 

I'm trying like hell to find a review on it.


----------



## Eric Stevens

I had 5 of the Opti 2200 in my Sable when it competed back in the day. Rated for 100 x 2 @ 4 ohms and 200 x 2 @ 2 ohms or 400 x1 @ 4 ohms mono. They were all hand tweaked by Dan Laufman the engineer responsible and Loni the lead tech at the time and another engineer that worked under Dan.

Love these amps they were powerful clean and dynamic. I did have the front end modified with different op-amps and the rail voltages were tweaked to optimize output for the load being driven. 4 of the amps were about 440 to 460 watts before distortion started to rise, 2 were set up for 4 ohms mono, and 2 for 8 ohms mono, the fifth was optimized for 8 ohms stereo and running horns and was capable of 60 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms.

Eric


----------



## thebigjimsho

My 2nd big time stereo install was an all Lanzar system running in my '92 SHO. In 1995, I believe. Had a 200 and a 160 for 2 sets of Pro 5.25" components and 2 12s. 

They were, indeed, quite good.


----------



## thebigjimsho

I actually still have those 5.25 components laying around somewhere. I'd sell them cheap to a fan...


----------



## smgreen20

thebigjimsho said:


> I actually still have those 5.25 components laying around somewhere. I'd sell them cheap to a fan...


Looking for a set for the wifes car. 

PM me, let me know how much.






I just got the install done last Monday, had to get a set of coax's for the time being, but am going to go with a set of comps eventually and those 5 1/4" comps would be perfect. 

Here's her amprack.


----------



## thebigjimsho

Looks sweet. I miss that purple. I'll dig those up when I can(they're at my parents' place, still).


----------



## The Dude

Gotta love the old Opti gear, my old boss was a big fan. Ran an Opti 50C on six 15's in his Beetle, back in the day.


----------



## smgreen20

Found another small review for the Opti4100.

CA&E May 1997, pg 94

So tightly regulated that the output at 12.5v and 14.4v are the same.
56 wpc at 4 ohms,
THD- .055%
170w x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged
S/N- 100dB min gain, 99dB max gain


For an amp rated at 25 x 4 @ 4 ohms, this amp does way more then rated and as you can see by the other reviews, it's not normal. Just goes to show not all models are the same.


----------



## 7018LoHy

Is this the opti 500 tms you are speaking of SM?

ww.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/119728-any-oldschool-lanzar-amp-gurus-out-there.html


----------



## smgreen20

I can't remember what TMS stands for, but yours is not a TMS. It would say TMS on it in place of "plus". It's not really a big deal, one isn't really better then the other.


----------



## bkjay

From what a Lanzar tech told me back in day the TMS were more stable at lower ohms.


----------



## Jeepman

I might get flamed by the Orion boys for this, but we "tested" an Opti 50C against an Orion HCCA 250 Digital Reference back in the day ~ 1997ish? The testing was made as fair as could be by a bunch of "kids" messing around with car audio. We wired up four 12" Earthquake subs all in parallel and bridged the amps for 1 ohm mono. The Opti 50C had a tighter snap to the bass and also hit harder. It made believers out of all of us that day.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm on a mission, I ran into the old installer from the company that use to sell LANZAR over Christmas and he told me that they made a FEW Opti100c's. I thought he meant 50c so I questioned him about it, he said no not the 50c, but that they actually made a few Opti100c's. He said he saw one, so now a LONG hard mission is now under way, to find an Opti1000c.


----------



## bkjay

WOW! Keep us posted.


----------



## Porter

I have a CSR that has specs for everything release in the past few years in the mid nineties. I will look for it. I hope to contribute to this thread a little.


----------



## smgreen20

Yes, do look, thanks. 

I doubt you'll find it. I have every issue of CA&E from November '94 to their last as well as all CSR directories and no mention of the Opti100c.


----------



## smgreen20

Yes, do look, thanks. 

I doubt you'll find it. I have every issue of CA&E from November '94 to their last as well as all CSR directories and no mention of the Opti100c.


----------



## The Dude

Sorry to dig this one up, but if you search "old school" on Ebay under Car Electronics right now there are tons of Opti processors for sale.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f145bf6cd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f145c149d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lanzar-Opti...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337279e1ff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f144e55a1


----------



## jpsandberg

In case anyone is interested, I'm about to sell my entire collection of Opti amps. Some are new in the box, some are almost-new in the box (slightly used, less that 200 hrs), some are out of the box used and some are not working.
If anyone is interested in anything, please let me know.
I'm at work right now, but here is what I can think of off the top of my head:
(3) 2200's (one in the box)
(2) 2150's (one in the box)
(2) 2100's 
(2) 4100's (one in box)
(1) 4150 (in box)

I can give a full status of any amp if someone is interested..


----------



## smgreen20

Ooooohhhhh so tempted yet so broke. 

Would love to have a 2200, more so a 50c or a 500.


----------



## smgreen20

Ooooohhhhh so tempted yet so broke. 

Would love to have a 2200, more so a 50c or a 500.


----------



## jpsandberg

haha, I hear ya! unfortunately, I sold the 2500 a few years back.. It was brand new in the box 

I bought some of these about 5-6 years ago from a guy that used to manufacture these for Lanzar. I think he said something about having enough 'parts' to build out what he had and I bought them all from him. One of them didn't have any silk screening on the heat sink, but I kinda liked it that way! (the rest I just bought here and there over the years)


----------



## rreed

jpsandberg said:


> In case anyone is interested, I'm about to sell my entire collection of Opti amps. Some are new in the box, some are almost-new in the box (slightly used, less that 200 hrs), some are out of the box used and some are not working.
> If anyone is interested in anything, please let me know.
> I'm at work right now, but here is what I can think of off the top of my head:
> (3) 2200's (one in the box)
> (2) 2150's (one in the box)
> (2) 2100's
> (2) 4100's (one in box)
> (1) 4150 (in box)
> 
> I can give a full status of any amp if someone is interested..


I am. The 4100s please. Maybe the 4150.


----------



## smgreen20

Bumping.

In a few months I'll be in the market for a few OS LANZAR Opti amps. The color maters to me. I want the older versions, so I'm after the colored sinks pictured .











I'll be looking for:
Opti
50
100
100Q
200
500
50c

Condition: working. Cosmetics don't matter all that much. I can have them repainted and decaled.


----------



## TheHammer

Eric Stevens said:


> I had 5 of the Opti 2200 in my Sable when it competed back in the day. Rated for 100 x 2 @ 4 ohms and 200 x 2 @ 2 ohms or 400 x1 @ 4 ohms mono. They were all hand tweaked by Dan Laufman the engineer responsible and Loni the lead tech at the time and another engineer that worked under Dan.
> 
> Love these amps they were powerful clean and dynamic. I did have the front end modified with different op-amps and the rail voltages were tweaked to optimize output for the load being driven. 4 of the amps were about 440 to 460 watts before distortion started to rise, 2 were set up for 4 ohms mono, and 2 for 8 ohms mono, the fifth was optimized for 8 ohms stereo and running horns and was capable of 60 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms.
> 
> Eric


Actually recognize those two names as guys who are involved in Emotiva home equipment now.
I have some of that stuff.

The Hammer


----------



## jrs1006

I have to totally agree. Still trying to build on my collection of items. Would love to have a E30, LP or pro 12's/15's, and a set of 6.5's. I currently have All the prossessors and a set of Opti 5.25 components. Wish I had a 2500 and a 4100 or a couple of 2100's and a 2200.


----------



## bigdwiz

*smgreen20*, you ain't gonna believe what my boy down in TX found...

Before anyone tries to snag it from him, he's already been paid for it so it's coming to the OldSchoolStereo labs so we can bench test this baby!


----------



## bigdwiz

This guy has one for sale...it is the later model, but what a beastly amp!


1996 Old School Lanzar Opti 50c cleaned up! "Steve Mantz" ZED Amplifier


----------



## Prime mova

bigdwiz said:


> *smgreen20*, you ain't gonna believe what my boy down in TX found...
> 
> Before anyone tries to snag it from him, he's already been paid for it so it's coming to the OldSchoolStereo labs so we can bench test this baby!


Jettaboispl, mentioned that theirs a bigD dance when do we get to see the Dee busting a move on YT


----------



## smgreen20

D,
If it ever goes for sale, I want it. That's the year, color I'm looking for, for all LANZAR amps that I'll be collecting.


----------



## Nicks84

smgreen20 said:


> Bumping.
> 
> In a few months I'll be in the market for a few OS LANZAR Opti amps. The color maters to me. I want the older versions, so I'm after the colored sinks pictured .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be looking for:
> Opti
> 50
> 100
> 100Q
> 200
> 500
> 50c
> 
> Condition: working. Cosmetics don't matter all that much. I can have them repainted and decaled.


I have a 100 Plus and a 200. Hit me up when the time comes. I can post pics if needed.


----------



## bigdwiz

Beast vs. Beast!!

*Orion XTR-2250* vs. *Lanzar Opti 50c* "Ultra-High Current" Amp


----------



## bigdwiz

Anyone have a *PDF manual for a Lanzar Opti 50c*? The only one I can find online is in Russian!


Camera trickery making the black 50c look bigger than the blue one


----------



## Car_Audionut

I'm a big fan of these. Whenever I find an old school one locally, usually for cheap as the newer units tainted the name, I feel like I stuck gold.

Does anybody know what year they changed from blue to black heat sinks?


----------



## smgreen20

1996 


BigD, no manual myself. Sorry.


----------



## bigdwiz

Car_Audionut said:


> Does anybody know what year they changed from blue to black heat sinks?


IIRC 1994-1995 = blue, 1996-1999= black

I remember seeing them up until 1999 in my directories, but can't recall if they hit the market in '93 or '94




> BigD, no manual myself. Sorry.


I have a printed out manual with the blue 50c, but some of the pages are cut off. The guy I got it from (blue 50c) found it in a storage unit, called Lanzar and got info about the amp and they must've copied him a manual from an original. the funny part is he left his phone notes from talking to Lanzar in the box and they told him the amp would do "2500 watts" Max...Based on how they rate their amps now, probably so....


----------



## jrs1006

bigdwiz said:


> Anyone have a *PDF manual for a Lanzar Opti 50c*? The only one I can find online is in Russian!
> 
> 
> Camera trickery making the black 50c look bigger than the blue one


That is some nice ish!!!! Dang those boards look so much alike.


----------



## bigdwiz

I'm gonna put this Opti Drive Plus 50 on eBay later today, send me a PM if you are interested...


----------



## bigdwiz

You Lanzar guys may like this thread...

ps. The amp is not a PPI amp

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...old-school-precision-power-unknown-model.html


----------



## jrs1006

jpsandberg said:


> In case anyone is interested, I'm about to sell my entire collection of Opti amps. Some are new in the box, some are almost-new in the box (slightly used, less that 200 hrs), some are out of the box used and some are not working.
> If anyone is interested in anything, please let me know.
> I'm at work right now, but here is what I can think of off the top of my head:
> (3) 2200's (one in the box)
> (2) 2150's (one in the box)
> (2) 2100's
> (2) 4100's (one in box)
> (1) 4150 (in box)
> 
> I can give a full status of any amp if someone is interested..


PM me I am interested in what you have left. I just picked up a pair of LP-15's in good condition.


----------



## jrs1006

Does anyone have a subwoofer manual for the SE and LP series Subs?


----------



## jrs1006

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...scussion/109349-fleetwood-macs-rumours-3.html

Found this thread and thought some of you could apppreciate. I remember having a copy of that issue. I think there was also a Lanzar thunderbirf for John Fleetwood but I could be wrong.


----------



## dwcopple

I have this for sale

























$100+shipping. I have PayPal. [email protected]

The one speaker lead has wire soldered where the screw was. could probably drill and tap it, use a self tapper, or just splice the wire that is there. It is NOT one of the bridged channels that has that wire.


----------



## smgreen20

bigdwiz said:


> 1994 Lanzar Opti 50c Ultra-High Current cheater amp tested!
> 
> See it in 1080P High Def here
> 
> or embedded below:


Posted from another thread, but is relevant here.


----------



## bigdwiz

Nice, I thought I had posted it here already...


----------



## smgreen20

Here's an update on my family/collection.

Opti50
Opti150
Opti160
Opti500










The 50, 150, and 500 will be going in my truck, but not for some time yet.,


----------



## Nicks84

smgreen20 said:


> Here's an update on my family/collection.
> 
> Opti50
> Opti150
> Opti160
> Opti500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 50, 150, and 500 will be going in my truck, but not for some time yet.,


NICE !!


I have the 50 plus and 2-200's. The 50 and one of the 200's are both in MINT condition, still in box with papers of authenticity. Would Love that 500 . Any interest in getting rid of it, lol? Or even the 160. PM me


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks, nut I just got the 500 a few weeks ago. The 160 I will keep till I die. I'm striving to get one, maybe two, of each Opti amp. Some to use, the rest to keep in the collection.


----------



## SilkySlim

jpsandberg said:


> In case anyone is interested, I'm about to sell my entire collection of Opti amps. Some are new in the box, some are almost-new in the box (slightly used, less that 200 hrs), some are out of the box used and some are not working.
> If anyone is interested in anything, please let me know.
> I'm at work right now, but here is what I can think of off the top of my head:
> (3) 2200's (one in the box)
> (2) 2150's (one in the box)
> (2) 2100's
> (2) 4100's (one in box)
> (1) 4150 (in box)
> 
> I can give a full status of any amp if someone is interested..


Do you have the 2200 or 2150 left? Or the 4ch?


----------



## jpsandberg

SilkySlim said:


> Do you have the 2200 or 2150 left? Or the 4ch?


All three. Shoot me a Pm with an offer on what you want


----------



## SilkySlim

Does any one have the history on what changes occurred between the blue opti xxx and the black and gold xxxx series? I have heard conflicting stories and the board are almost identical. They both sound fantastic! Thanks for your help. I hope Mr. Green the Lanzar guru can clear this up.


----------



## bigdwiz

SilkySlim said:


> Does any one have the history on what changes occurred between the blue opti xxx and the black and gold xxxx series? I have heard conflicting stories and the board are almost identical. They both sound fantastic! Thanks for your help. I hope Mr. Green the Lanzar guru can clear this up.


I don't know the exact history, but the best I can tell the blue ones were '94-95 and the black models were '96-99. I actually did a video comparing the boards on both. You can see it below:

On YouTube in 1080P HD

or embedded below:


----------



## smgreen20

They're virtually identical, but the "B" versions, 96-99, were the latest and last of the updates. They all employeed TMS and CPS technology. They are, hate to say it, the best of the Optis.


----------



## smgreen20

Guy selling some OS LANZAR stuff, cheap too. If I had more $$, I would buy more. Might get a set of these for sh!t$ and Giggles.

4" coax
Lanzar CX4.2 4" Coaxial Speakers (Old School) | eBay

The rest.
5 1/4" coax
Lanzar CX5.2 Coaxial Speakers (Old School) | eBay

6 1/2" mids- I bought one set to actually use
Lanzar CS64 6.5" Mid/Midbass Speakers (Old School) | eBay

4" comp set- thinking about a set of these too, just need more $
Lanzar CS4.1 Component System Speakers (Old School) | eBay

DC10 sub
Lanzar DC10 10" Subwoofer Single Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay

SOLD- DC8 DVC- I bought it
Lanzar DC8 8" Subwoofer 4ohm Dual Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay

SOLD- DC SVC- had 3, couldn't get to the bank quick enough, I was going to get 2 of them for an install. 
Lanzar DC8 8" Subwoofer 4ohm Single Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay

All at great prices for the buyer.


----------



## SilkySlim

I feel your pain. Thanks for the heads up! Great find Mr. Green thanks.


----------



## Prime mova

smgreen20 said:


> Guy selling some OS LANZAR stuff, cheap too. If I had more $$, I would buy more. Might get a set of these for sh!t$ and Giggles.
> 
> 4" coax
> Lanzar CX4.2 4" Coaxial Speakers (Old School) | eBay
> 
> The rest.
> 5 1/4" coax
> Lanzar CX5.2 Coaxial Speakers (Old School) | eBay
> 
> 6 1/2" mids- I bought one set to actually use
> Lanzar CS64 6.5" Mid/Midbass Speakers (Old School) | eBay
> 
> 4" comp set- thinking about a set of these too, just need more $
> Lanzar CS4.1 Component System Speakers (Old School) | eBay
> 
> DC10 sub
> Lanzar DC10 10" Subwoofer Single Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay
> 
> SOLD- DC8 DVC- I bought it
> Lanzar DC8 8" Subwoofer 4ohm Dual Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay
> 
> SOLD- DC SVC- had 3, couldn't get to the bank quick enough, I was going to get 2 of them for an install.
> Lanzar DC8 8" Subwoofer 4ohm Single Voice Coil (Old School) | eBay
> 
> All at great prices for the buyer.


Mike, the heads up on this person...
Presently I've got an ebay dispute case running w/this seller, won two auctions for Rockford fosgate speaker sets, the first auction he wouldn't provide me w/what speakers id brought. Its been 3 weeks and the seller hasn't shipped me my auction number two rf speakers ! 
Hope you have better luck !


----------



## smgreen20

Wow, thanks man.


----------



## StockA4

Mike, is this the gent you were referring to? The "disputed" one? I'll have to go take a look. I'm usually on the lookout for amps and processors, but my play funds have been bled nearly dry.


----------



## smgreen20

Yea, that's him. I ment to mention what prime said.


----------



## StockA4

Right on.


----------



## smgreen20

Here's some of the other things he has listed.

DC54 -5 1/4 mids
Lanzar DC54 Component Drivers (Old School) | eBay

DC64 -6 1/2 mids
Describes them as comps, they're not. Just the mid. The DC6.1 is the comp set. Look at pic 2. 
Lanzar DC6.4 Component Speaker System (OLD SCHOOL) | eBay


----------



## StockA4

Wow. Those DC-4's look like a heck of a deal. What's your take on the quality? I do't think I've ever heard any Lanzar speakers.


----------



## smgreen20

Quality as far as sound and build is top notch. I bought the 6 1/2" mids to put in my truck.


----------



## StockA4

smgreen20 said:


> Quality as far as sound and build is top notch. I bought the 6 1/2" mids to put in my truck.


I'm intrigued. Hopefully after Xmas there will be one or two things available.


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> Here's some of the other things he has listed.
> 
> DC54 -5 1/4 mids
> Lanzar DC54 Component Drivers (Old School) | eBay
> 
> DC64 -6 1/2 mids
> Describes them as comps, they're not. Just the mid. The DC6.1 is the comp set. Look at pic 2.
> Lanzar DC6.4 Component Speaker System (OLD SCHOOL) | eBay


This was the same guy I posted about earlier. I too bought a set of 5.1's. I hope they ship out ok.


----------



## smgreen20

This just in....

New in Box

DC84
CS64 

Pics to follow as soon as I get home.


----------



## smgreen20

As I stated, here they are.

DC84

























CS64

























My new front stage.


----------



## StockA4

Dang! Nice score!


----------



## jrs1006

I got the DC5.1's today. The box looked like hell but the product was new. One of the crossovers had a couple of nicks but otherwise good. Will post pictures soon.


----------



## smgreen20

Where's the pics man? I'm dying to see them.


----------



## jrs1006

Finally some pics of the DC 5.4's


----------



## smgreen20

Jrs, could you do me a small favor? Could you scan/take pics of the manual and post them? I'm trying to get as much lit of LANZAR as I can.


----------



## SilkySlim

What's up Lanzar crowd I am searching for a couple of 50c's not working, paint in bad shape not an issue I just need a few heat sinks in good condition physically no deep grinds. Smaller scratches ok. Anyone that could help pm me. Thanks Lanzar crowd. I have an idea for an old school build, well o.s. amps at least. 

SMGREEN20 how goes the search for the old school Lanzar holy grail? The opti100c I can't imagine the size of that heat sink it might go from door to door on your truck.


----------



## smgreen20

Silk, you have PM. Thanks for the LXR90.

The search goes nowhere. I looked pretty hard for the first few weeks and a little bit every so often. Emailed LANZAR, no replies.

I'm starting to think it was:
1) a prototype that never saw production
2) The installer was mistaken or
3) a one off custom of two 50c's in one sink.


----------



## SilkySlim

Pm sent.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

I am surprised that this thread is not more popular. These OS Lanzar amps don't get much love?
Got me thinking.  :rolleye
I will post the top ten reasons Lanzar gets no love this holiday season. 
I will also post the top ten reasons why it is one of the best OS amps made.
In my humble opinion. 
Looking for input. Noobs OS = old school.
Let the debates begin. :banghead:
Let's bring some life back to these great amps. 
Can't think of a better way to spend the holidays with my Lanzar peeps. Lol

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Is the PM from 7707797?


----------



## smgreen20

Can't edit on the phone. But,

I know, right? The PPI thread has taken off but this LANZAR thread is just putting along. I thought it would've taken off a bit more then it has.


----------



## SilkySlim

jpsandberg said:


> In case anyone is interested, I'm about to sell my entire collection of Opti amps. Some are new in the box, some are almost-new in the box (slightly used, less that 200 hrs), some are out of the box used and some are not working.
> If anyone is interested in anything, please let me know.
> I'm at work right now, but here is what I can think of off the top of my head:
> (3) 2200's (one in the box)
> (2) 2150's (one in the box)
> (2) 2100's
> (2) 4100's (one in box)
> (1) 4150 (in box)
> 
> I can give a full status of any amp if someone is interested..


Sorry big fingers smaller phone earlier.
Pm sent need a few pieces to the puzzle to finish.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> Jrs, could you do me a small favor? Could you scan/take pics of the manual and post them? I'm trying to get as much lit of LANZAR as I can.


Just getting around to the thread again. I can scan them in but it is going to be after the holidays. I am off work until Jan 2 and have to use the one at work . Please remind me I will forget. -Jose


----------



## smgreen20

No problem, and thanks.


----------



## SilkySlim

Does anyone by any chance have the Max current draws of the 2150, 2200, 2500 & 160q? I working out fusing and load calculations. Any help would appreciated. Thanks guys.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Pm'ed you on the 2150 and the 2200,but
2150 @ 40
2200 and 160 @ 50
2500 @ 100 amperes.


----------



## bigdwiz

Remember when you are using the amps to play back music and not test tones, the actual current draw will be significantly less. For example, my recent test of the Orion "Beast" XTR-2250 showed a current draw of over 100A when bridged at 4 ohms and running a 40Hz test tone wired to resistors....but, when I tested it bridged at 4 ohms with music powering my (3) JL 8W6's, I was only pulling 30-35A at insane volumes.


----------



## SilkySlim

bigdwiz said:


> Remember when you are using the amps to play back music and not test tones, the actual current draw will be significantly less. For example, my recent test of the Orion "Beast" XTR-2250 showed a current draw of over 100A when bridged at 4 ohms and running a 40Hz test tone wired to resistors....but, when I tested it bridged at 4 ohms with music powering my (3) JL 8W6's, I was only pulling 30-35A at insane volumes.


Oh yea I can't believe the volume and low end I get on my test room (confiscated reference theater) off of 15-30 amps even from these inefficient OS a\b amps. When I start driving three big boys I start gulping the current.


----------



## SilkySlim

Lol my family has had enough and wants the theater back now I have made my decision. It has been a fun adventure.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thank you Mr Green again.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thanks I remember add heard many discussions about running the 500's and 2500's in a 2 ohm mono obviously with a cooling system. This was because the used the highest current outputs mosfets of their time there was talk of 2000+ Watts x 1 @ 2 ohm mono. I have talked with engineers and technicians current and past. They have said this is when this amp really comes alive and sings. They have said it can pull upto 240 amps in this mode. Being a class A amp that is around120 amps passed as heat as big as they are that's small chassis for that much heat you are in colossus & PA4300 territory much bigger chassis. I'm planning a liquid cooling system for my set up so I should be fine.

I am total SQL but I don't believe there is a thing as too much headroom. Plus there are times when I like to think I'm young again and my car is a dance club.

It has been along time ago (94,95) to remember these conversations. I had them mostly with Lanzar while planning a demo and competition system.
Can anyone verify?
Mr D Wiz let me know and I'll drive up and we can verify?
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Class AB not A **** auto correct.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Yes that is correct. I'll be running mine at 2 ohms mono, but set for 1000 watts so my heat won't be an issue and that's all my sub can handle. I'll be set up for SQ anyway. Well, off to my road trip.


----------



## SilkySlim

Can't wait to see pics!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Ok, I'm back. I was able to bring home a nib LXR100 and on layaway I have all nib, Opti100, possibly a 200, he's checking into that, and two fan shrouds, a 160Q and an Opti50c. He has a one off production of an Opti500 that I'll probably put in layaway too. And a bunch of other stuff I'll get as well just don't want to get a huge layaway going that'll take awhile to pay off and bring home. I did manage to get some pics of things that I'll post when I get back. Wife wants to go eat, so as soon as I get back I'll post them. Stay tuned, you'll want to see this.


----------



## SilkySlim

Wow what a score! Can't wait.


----------



## 7018LoHy

oh the suspense.....


----------



## 7018LoHy

Okay just found this guy who has a pyle of old zed amps in his closet. I implied about the lanzar amps. 

all blue optidrives

2 200's
2 160 (4 channel)
1 100
1 oldschool 50 he said it was a lx50 but could find anything on it
wants 700 bucks for everything..... Not sure if thats a good price or not.



ORION XTR 500 and 345 
ORION HCCA 2400d (2400 watts mono amp)
AUTOTEK MEAN MACHINE 99
HIFONICS VIII JUNO 4 CH AMP ECXELLENT FOR MID'S AND HI'S
ROCFORD FOSGATE PUNCH 250.2 very rare to find in chrome
PPI 1500.1,2600.2 

I already have a lanzar 500 opti that im gonna use for subs I am looking for something for mids and highs. Any thoughts and what prices do u think would be fair? I was kinda leaning towards one of the lanzar 160 plus for mids and highs. But the hifonics looks nice also.


----------



## smgreen20

Hell yeah that's a good deal. If I had $700 it's be sold. I'm paying $300 for my nib Opti100. Pics in a few.


----------



## smgreen20

The wait is over.

The box

























The amp

























The inards.









The extras









What's this? Amp shrouds!!!!!......









Opti50c amp shroud








Opti160Q amp shroud










The rest
OA-12.8 (He has a 4 ohm that I'm getting)








Here's the OA12.4 (This ones mine)
































The holy grail

































Clarion OS


















What you see is only half of it. He has some more OS LANZAR stuff in his warehouse.


----------



## SilkySlim

That was a very nice find they are prefect can't wait to see them in your new build. Congrats Merry Christmas. Thanks again for your help. Now that is more of what a lxr should look like! 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 7018LoHy

smgreen20 said:


> Hell yeah that's a good deal. If I had $700 it's be sold. I'm paying $300 for my nib Opti100. Pics in a few.


Dont look like the same amp you just bought. But you think all these plus a lanzar 50 is worth 700 all in working order?


----------



## smgreen20

That would be about the right price for both parties involved. 

Opti200 - $150-200
Opti160 - $125-175
Opti100 - $75-100
Opti50 - $50-75

Of course price dependent on condition. 
One of the 200's and one of the 160's look rough, the other ones look pretty good. So all-in-all, if *I* had the money, I'd do it w/o a thought. But I must warn you, as a collector of these, I'd be willing to go higher then the average person. But, those prices are on average, what I've seen them roughly going for. 


The amp I brought home (pictured above) in a LANZAR LXR100, pre Opti series amps. The Opti100 and the 2 fan shrouds are in layaway.


----------



## 7018LoHy

I by no means consider myself a collector nor do I want to be. Harley Davidson takes up enough of my money as is. I am really only looking to get an amp for mids and highs. Gonna use my opti 500 for 2 12's. In your opinion, which amp would you pick out of all the amps (lanzar and non lanzar) I listed on my previous post.


----------



## SilkySlim

That price isn't great but not bad for what they are going for lately if they are in good working order. Lanzar and old school amps have been getting no respect. I found some good finds on Ebay and craigslist for my wife's car. 

Not normal for the last year or two, but I have seem a major drop in price with old school amps in the last 6mo. exept linear power. I think most of the collectors have a bunch of apps and are looking for just the special ones. I saw one of big d Wiz's Lanzar 50 tested go on Ebay for around $50. I saw some Hifonics go for less than half what they were going for last year. Might change for the tax refund season.

Finally to answer your question which one would I choose obviously I would choose the Lanzar. Depending on what components you are using. The 160q for channel is very nice and would allow you to go active or you can bridge on each door. It does sounds very good in that config. If you use the 200 it is a sweet sounding amp. If you don't go with the Lanzars the Autotek is strong detailed with a midbass and lowend snap that's hard to match. The Hifonics is good but that is the smallest 4ch they made and had a slightly different design than the other series 8's look for Europa instead but its ok and would do a good job. I own all three I would put the Lanzar. I do have a car with old school Oz and it sounds fantastic with the Autotek and Hifonics.

Once again my two cents. Good luck and if you ever move on from the 500 I'm sure there are a couple of us here that would love it. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Top ten reasons Lanzar doesn't get the love.
1. Cheesy and snobby marketing.
2. Large over sized heatsink.
3. Competion marketing plan for dealers and employees.
4. Great marketing and good product from competitors.
5.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry about that
5. Expensive retail for the time. As I remember need to verify. 
6. Clean but boring art and design. No flashy art or plexiglas windows, cool colors, etc.
7. Simple circuit design not as flexible. (I.e. built in crossovers, etc.)
8. Now years later power coat flaking.
9. Came out when a couple of marketing powerhouses and solid amps were exploding PPI art and Orion, not to mention competing with established amps like Soundstream, Hifonics, Phoenix Gold Alphasonic, Linear power, Autotek, Crunch, rodek, and not to mention the cheaper Alpine, Kenwood.
10. Sold out to flea market company! New stuff just not good why would the old stuff be worth anything.

Wait for it. Wait for it.
Top ten reason why old school opti's are one of the best sounding well built amps ever made and that I have ever heard. I know that I am going to ruffle feathers.
I thought I would put out their some of the draw backs. You are not going to hide these amps in many locations but great wire management built in.


----------



## Nicks84

SilkySlim said:


> The 160q for channel is very nice and would allow you to go active or you can bridge on each door. It does sounds very good in that config. If you use the 200 it is a sweet sounding amp. If you don't go with the Lanzars the Autotek is strong detailed with a midbass and lowend snap that's hard to match.
> 
> Once again my two cents. Good luck and if you ever move on from the 500 I'm sure there are a couple of us here that would love it.


This a billion times. I own both the Autotek 99 (Mean Machine) and a few Lanzar Opti's (100, 2-200's). The Opti sounds smoother (perhaps warmer is a better word ?) on my set up vs the Autotek, but the Autotek has unmatched transparency, detail, and power, with that low end snap you mentioned that is hard to match.

I'm really surprised these series of amps are not more popular. There are plenty of old school amps that are very popular, but I somehow feel these get glossed over a lot.


----------



## Richi

SMGREEN20 Thanks

Thanks, I buyed with the ebay guy 7 DC6.1 , 3 DC5.1 & 3 DC4.1 and Everything arrived very well, hit boxes, but acceptable for 1996. I love this components.


----------



## SilkySlim

Hey richi you might want to be careful putting your full address up online like that. Location city or state not full address. That is what pm is for. Glad those speakers worked out. They are a good find.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> The wait is over.
> 
> The box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extras
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's this? Amp shrouds!!!!!......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opti50c amp shroud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opti160Q amp shroud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest
> OA-12.8 (He has a 4 ohm that I'm getting)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the OA12.4 (This ones mine)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The holy grail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarion OS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you see is only half of it. He has some more OS LANZAR stuff in his warehouse.


Mr. Green
Got to know have you listened to your LXR yet that is more of what I expect to see inside of a lanzar chassis. That is such a clean find I know that you are excited. I will find a good one one day to listen too. 

My amp testing binge is over and the family is kicking me and my car amps out of the Theater/Testing Lab. Decided to pick out amps for my car system. I have been away from the car scene for 15+yrs. Tried 12+ brands, 25+ different series, 60+models on four different sets of speakers. Maybe the next round I'll get an lxr to test at least. Over 1000Hrs. logged of critical listening, testing, comparing and reviewing. Maybe one day I will get around to post my findings, I am sure to ruffle some feathers. There is a lot of love and/or devotion here for certain brands and models. I know what I like for sure. There is a king of the hill so far that new or old school can't beat yet. I will try to make time and post my build but no promises.

Wait for it. 
PS when I open up the testing lab again I may need a couple of loaner amps to test my friend.


----------



## secretsquirl

I just sent this to Eric about two weeks ago before I saw this thread. We look much younger there


----------



## rreed

This is getting good. Over the years I've slowly pieced together some misc. Lanzar stuff now that I'm old, have a job, and can afford it since it's now a fraction of the price from when I was a poor kid. I need to compare one of my 2050's to my 160Q for sound quality difference but at a glance the old gray seems tighter and punchier than the warm smoothness of the newer blacks.

My buddy ran LXR amps w/ SE woofers in his Nissan back in the day, it was nice and warm and very accurate but I can't compare to my gray/black ones today, his stuff is long gone.


----------



## SilkySlim

The 2050 is a little less than half the power of the 160q. But one thing that makes the org. Optidrive sound so good is they used one of the largest high current output transistors available in all of that series amp top to bottom. Capable 25 amps per.

The 160q and 4150 are the few that seemed to beat rated output numbers. Though most newer amps are rated using different min standards now. Anyway I digress. These high current outputs enable it perform much better in real world on speaker loads not just resistive loads for wattage measurements where it will be about dead on claims. Resistor based ratings guide you an idea of output on a stable load.
These amps have the capacity to sound very full, warm, and natural with the current supply to handle those dynamics and provide the low end output and snap we all love. Evident when you put them on hungry speakers. Good luck both great sounding amps.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Secretsquril, who are "we". Are you in that pic? If so, which one? 

Silk, I have only listened to an LXR200 which was my very first amp ever and I had it powering two 12" LANZAR Pros. I was to much into pure bass back then so I can't comment on their sound properly. 

Everyone else, fwiw, the 2050/50 according to tests have done roughly 45w per ch. I haven't seen any tests on the 160Q, 4150. But I have seen one on a 50 and 100Q. I would speculate that the 160Q does about 55ish watts or so. I have noticed out of The Opti series amps that the ones rated to do under 50 wpc are the ones a bit underrated.


----------



## rreed

I have three 2050's and one 160. I know the 2050's are supposed to be 25x2 (100x1) and the 160 is 40x4 (160x2) but for the years i pushed my zr12 4ohm w/ a 2050 the 160 seems to over power it. It breaks up and distorts way too quick and easy. When i swapped out i could tell it had more power and was a little more sharp and kicked more lively compared to the 2050's smooth warmth. But i could crank the 2050 all day long while i just can't get any hair tickling volume out of the 160. I need to spend more time tweaking the gain but i never had this much trouble w/ the 2050. I'm not sure its 160 rated watts is too much for the zr12's 150 watt rating.

I'm using the 160's front channels in stereo for my mws5's and they're fine but can tell the same overall tighter sharpness over the 2050's warmth.

I've been meaning to swap back out to a 2050's again but never got around to it. The vehicle this is in is getting stripped for sale so i may throw the whole lot up on the work bench for a side by side comparison at some point.


----------



## SilkySlim

FYI guys i picked up a 2200 off of craigslist really decent shape opened it up looked factory at first glance. Test powered it up on the bench cheap speaker test sounded good. Did a nice ref speaker test on it seem quite a bit stronger on the left channel. Swapped rca's still had a considerable left bias. 
Opened it up again looked like a output trans had been replaced. Thought got it! Someone had replace the whole channel with tip36 transistors. This series along with the 200 plus, tms series use tip35. The right channels output trans were tip35 they spec out very close but i will have to say the 36 had a more power though not huge it very noticeable. Has anyone replaced them all with 36's and had any problems? 
I hope this helps someone in the future I thought this might be the best place to post this.


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr Green,
Do you have the dip switch guide or settings page for the 160q?? 
These original Optis are are unbelievable tanks. People just have to really try hard to damage these. Such a simple design to repair if needed too. Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Having learned a bit about these amps I'm going to have to pull the backs of all of mine and have a look. One of my 2050's was supposed to be a factory refurb - it has the old series' round knobs on it. I recall testing it against my "new" 2050's that were bought new and have the half-moon knobs, I recall the refurb having a little more pound to it so I labeled it subwoofer and the other two mid/high. I didn't know enough at the time to look over the circuit boards.

Same for my 160 since one of the front RCA jacks cuts in and out, I need to resolder. I'll look it over real good.

Dumb question, but what's all this about TMS, Q vs. no Q on the old four channels, etc.? I know my old Lanzar pamphlets seem to indicate the TMS is something different or special but what's the scoop?


----------



## rreed

I have manuals for pretty much everything, I'll try to get some scans or pics up soon as I can.


----------



## SilkySlim

I will take pics today when I get back. To my understanding the org. Series was the blue plus underneath the opti at the top right. Tms blue was the next series of this design. Supposedly better stability in lower ohm loads "that they are rated for" 2 ohm stereo 4 ohm mono. Some are 2 ohm mono stabile with added cooling. The 2200, 2050 etc. was the last series with all of the technology built in. 
Mr Green is the expert in this arena.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I've also been curious as to why w/ the old blue/gray stuff they had the 160 but the newer black stuff the four channel didn't get bigger than what, 4100/4150? My old 160 get HHHHHHHHOT!!! That's just running one 4ohm woofer bridged off the rear and one pair of 4ohm stereo speakers off the front. 

I was going to run two sets off the front in 2ohm stereo but I don't think it would take it, the heat protection would shut it off every five seconds. As-is this thing will nearly burn your hand hot.

Cool info on the differences, maybe that's why my 2050's sound a little smoother and more refined than this old 160. I'd still like an old 50 to directly compare or more preferable a 4100. I'd trade my 160 straight across for one.


----------



## smgreen20

TMS, I'm not 100%, stands for Thermal Management System, which as started allows the amp to run more stable at lower ohm loads. They are the last in the grayish series. The darker series had all the tech in them that LANZAR put in the Opti amps. 

When, I'm not sure, but the Q stands for Quad, or 4. I have a 160, not the 160Q. No difference. As for the switches. All up but one I believe is 90Hz high pass, all down but one I believe is 90Hz low pass.


----------



## SilkySlim

Well that would make since about the tms and q. They were not terribly complicated or complex with their names or model numbers. One of the things I really like about them they kept it simple. 

I am surprised that it ran that hot what kind of voltage were you running on the input? They do run much cooler with a strong pre amp
Driver like theirs even. You can back the gains way back. If you can get the gain under a quarter it makes a huge difference.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

My testing has confirmed that the black and gold series is just a touch more refined and detailed sound but it is minute. 
But I want to recondition one from both series then revisit the tests.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I'm going to have to go dig up all my old Lanzar propaganda now. I'll also look up the dips but I think it's all up/down is 90hz hi/low pass. I don't recall anything about one switch opposite but this is my memory which.. wait, what was I talking about?

I have a ~3 year old Pioneer Premier head unit (don't remember the output voltage, I want to say 4.something) going into a black Lanzar x4b (sweet) into my 160. Seems like my amp gain is about 1/3? I think my x4b gain is about 3/4. I'd have to look. I do have to admit that I haven't gotten to spend a lot of time tweaking the gains on either.


----------



## rreed

SilkySlim said:


> My testing has confirmed that the black and gold series is just a touch more refined and detailed sound but it is minute.
> But I want to recondition one from both series then revisit the tests.
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


Agreed. I need to do a good workbench comparison but back when I swapped out my black 2050 for the gray 160 the difference was subtle but definitely there if you listen to your sound system w/ a microscope (so to speak) like I do. It's not "holy crap that's a completely different amplifier" but yeah a little different. I've found the same in the processors. I bench compared a gray x2 to a black x2 and it was the same; the gray was a little sharper around the edges than the black x2's smoothness. Very subtle but after listening to a few well-known tracks going through each you could tell the slight difference.


----------



## smgreen20

Ok, so the switches are a bit more complicated then what we thought. 
For the HP in: all switches down 90Hz, with the even switches up/odds down 120Hz, with odds up/evens down 180Hz and all switches up 240Hz. 
For LP in: all down 60Hz, odds up/evens down 90Hz, odds down/evens up 120Hz and all up 180Hz.


----------



## Ampman

smgreen20 said:


> Looking for a set for the wifes car.
> 
> PM me, let me know how much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got the install done last Monday, had to get a set of coax's for the time being, but am going to go with a set of comps eventually and those 5 1/4" comps would be perfect.
> 
> Here's her amprack.


Nice install, those Opti's are great sounding amps. I had a really old Lanzar quite a few years ago that I sold for $75 wish like everything now I'd kept it.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thanks again Mr.Green! He saves the day! 
I look forward to those scans Mr. Reed like to see another person who really cares about great audio and Lanzar here!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

I do what I can. I wondered for the longest time about those switches. 

Amp, those Two Optis are now in my closet. The 150 is awaiting my reinstall. She now has 2 PPI Sedona amps in their place. An APA430/200iX.


----------



## SilkySlim

LOL sedonas good sounding amp they were known as the cheap ppi in the shop. So didn't get much traction from the owners and didn't sell many but man missed the boat on that one. Tested one last month nice am


----------



## SilkySlim

I really don't like being jelly fingers on a touch screen keypad. As I was saying Sedona's are a sleeper amp. 
I am finishing an update to my wife's/family car and she picked out the amps with the cool names from the collection. HIfonics SII LOL. Phone died and couldn't get quick pics of the guts. I will try again tomorrow. 
FYI Mr. Reed they made an opti isolator and line driver that worked well. If you had 4+v output that would be about right but 10 is even better. If you have closer to 1v you would have more of a problem.


----------



## SilkySlim

Here are the pics obvious power difference. Haven't run it hard enough to see if there is a heat difference. 















.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

I'm going to upgrade one of the Opti's I have a duplicate of test them before. And then upgrade one to 36c's and retest. I will report findings should be in a month.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Are those two pics of the same amp, the one w/ 35's on one channel and 36's on the other? I was in a hurry this morning, didn't get to grab one of my 2050's off the shelf. Will try again tomorrow. Did grab all my manuals and stuff, gimme a bit and I'll get some pics posted up.


----------



## rreed

And TMS is Tracking Management System according to the 1995 Lanzar Car Audio brochure, but more on that later.  According the the same brochure the 100Q/160Q might actually be something different than sans "Q."


----------



## rreed

In my 1993 brochure the amps are referred to as Optidrive Plus. I think that might be my old 160, I'll have to look. There is no Q for the four channel amps. The "Plus" appears under the Optidrive logo under the power indicator light on the amps.

In 1995 they appear to refer to them as Optidrive TMS and the 100/160 four channel amps appear to have picked up the Q. TMS takes the place of Plus in the logo under the indicator light.

Both year brochures are all gray. I think 1996 is when they turned black and I used to have a brochure for 1996 but it's since vanished.


----------



## rreed

And photobucket is not cooperating, of course.


----------



## smgreen20

Tracking does sound right. I wasn't 100% sure, as stated. '96 was the first year for the color change and the model number change. I have a'96 brochure too, AND I know where it's at.


----------



## rreed

I don't know if it's my '96 one or if I had another old one but I'm remembering an orange and blue hearse in a brochure, I don't recall if all the speakers in it where black surround/cursive logo or old orange surround/triangle logo. I don't recall the amps in it. This '95 one I have shows one of their vans w/ all the 15's in Plexiglas in this weird hexagonal tunnel. Pretty cool though. The '93 rag has lots of stuff about Britt Michael's Ferrari, haha! Poison were big fans of Lanzar back in the day apparently.


----------



## SilkySlim

That's awesome.
the 35's are on one side and the 36 on the other side or rail. I think each side is a channel rail. Each pair one output Trans drives the positive and the other one in the pair drives the Neg. Part of the signal. That's why you see pairs on each side. Class Ab push pull typically but I haven't seen a schematic. 
They all use the same output Trans on both sides on every other model I own the 2050 has a pair on each side the 2100 has two pair on each side same with the 160. All 35s

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I really gotta pull the backs off all my amps now. It's really making me think about that one 2050 I have that's a refurb that I recall having a little more oomph than the other two I bought new.


----------



## Ampman

I've got two older small Lanzar model 50 amps that I was surprised they use Darlinton output pairs TIP-142 TIP-147 I figured for sure they'd have the TIP-35c an 36c drivers cause all I've ever seen older and opti's they all use those. So for me that was bit of a shock


----------



## SilkySlim

I had heard that but I haven't seen any in person.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Ampman said:


> I've got two older small Lanzar model 50 amps that I was surprised they use Darlinton output pairs TIP-142 TIP-147 I figured for sure they'd have the TIP-35c an 36c drivers cause all I've ever seen older and opti's they all use those. So for me that was bit of a shock


Hey ampman I would love to see some pics!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

rreed said:


> I don't know if it's my '96 one or if I had another old one but I'm remembering an orange and blue hearse in a brochure, I don't recall if all the speakers in it where black surround/cursive logo or old orange surround/triangle logo. I don't recall the amps in it. This '95 one I have shows one of their vans w/ all the 15's in Plexiglas in this weird hexagonal tunnel. Pretty cool though. The '93 rag has lots of stuff about Britt Michael's Ferrari, haha! Poison were big fans of Lanzar back in the day apparently.


You've got to do me a big favor, scan the LANZAR brochures you have and post them.... please! 

I have The Auto Sound & Security issue were they Covered Bret Michaels ferrari.


----------



## smgreen20

I figured by hearse, it had to be pre '93 LANZAR so... Orange surrounds and triangle logo. Did a google search and this is what I found.


















































Sorry they're not larger. I saved them to my computer, then uploaded them to photobucket page.


----------



## jrs1006

Richi said:


> SMGREEN20 Thanks
> 
> Thanks, I buyed with the ebay guy 7 DC6.1 , 3 DC5.1 & 3 DC4.1 and Everything arrived very well, hit boxes, but acceptable for 1996. I love this components.


If you ever want to sell some of the DC6.1's let me know.


----------



## Ampman

Wow that's nice !! They use opti's in that setup just curious ?


----------



## rreed

This 50-something hearse is pretty freaking cool but the one in the flyer was i dunno like a 70 or 80 something and was light blue and orange. I'm pretty sure it had all black drivers in it. The. Interior was light gray as many of their later rigs and was done in a modern (for mid 90s) motif.

Photobucket was crapping out today but will get them scanned in soon as i can. My manuals and propaganda are getting brittle and starting to get that old paper smell so i need to preserve them for posterity.

So i opened up one of my 2050's tonight, one i bought new, and it has two tip35's one one side and two tip36's on the other. Are we sure the two sides are left/right channel? The board says revision d. I'll check another one tomorrow.

I remember something about Darlington output stages, i don't remember if it was Lanzar. I'll check the brochure! Haha


----------



## SilkySlim

Hi everyone I'm an idiot they are paired up but they are two different types of Trans. I am sorry I got carried away thinking while I was on the road not looking at it.

I was looking for the easy solution someone goofed up reason why there was a left bias. Didn't think it through. 

So sorry for the confusion all of my optis are 35c & 36c. I was wrong. Been to long since I have looked inside at the layout. 
Back to the drawing board. My fault guys. I am now going to have to trace out their layout. I will have to look more closely.

Sorry again.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Those hearses were bad to the bone they did have some of they coolest demo vehicles but then they had guys suits with hookers looking at them. Like I want to party with the guy with the big Lanzar speaker and his Mercedes? It just didn't make sense to me. That was the majority of the ads in the mags I remember. 
Them they had some just spl monster rip your head off unique bad to the bone demo cars of the time period. I just didn't get it marketing wise.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ampman

One of my Lanzar 50's the circuit board is from the other one, its a bit on the messed up side of things at the moment the circuit board that is. a cap leaked out and done some serious damage but no biggie ? ill have it in operating condition for long. See the output drivers this thing takes I'd never thought these would be in this amp


----------



## secretsquirl

Smgreen20 yes I am on the far left in that pic Eric Stevens is on the far right.


----------



## smgreen20

Amp, no, the Optis hadn't been designed yet. 

Rreed, The Optis, along with Phoenix Gold, use triple darrlington.


----------



## Ampman

I was referring to output drivers not Pre stages. This is the first Lanzar whether older or any old school Lanzar amp that I've personally seen with Darlinton output drivers all others Ive seen used 35C & 36C


----------



## rreed

Popped open my two 2050's that I bought new from the store, both had 35 on one side of the amp, 36 on the other side. Morocco or something was the name on them, if that makes any difference. I still need to open up my refurb 2050.

Do we care what capacitors are in them? One of mine had blue ones, I forget the other.


----------



## SilkySlim

So sorry for the confusion again.

Upon further inspection and research on the 35c & 36c one is the pnp and npn so one side is positive push rail and the other is the negative rail pull rail. If I had looked at the right specs on their spec sheet. I was just in a hurry looking at the current capacity etc. so my previous assumption was wrong.

Wish I had the time to digg into it further. will have to get it on the work bench. To find the bias problem.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

To my knowledge they used high quality Nichion caps that is what I have seen in mine. The brief looks I've taken.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Yes the one I checked this morning were blue Nichion.


----------



## rreed

Okay so photobucket is really peeing me off and not cooperating. Plus I been busy making the man richer and myself poorer.

I have the page(s) from the Opti 4150 (which also seems to match my 160, same DIP switches) scanned into pdf. PM me if you want it and I'll see if this site will let me send it to you.

Low pass @ 90Hz is off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on, depending on how you read the black/white. Try both ways.

High pass @ 90Hz is all on, depending on how you read the black/white. Try both ways.

The pages for the 4100/6200 w/ all the jumpers will take a bit, it's several pages in the manual. And if you have a 6200, I hate you.


----------



## SilkySlim

if you have a 6200 I'm jealous too

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Finally, now just have to get some pages scanned in.


----------



## smgreen20

Please get those into PDF and email them to me..... PLEASE!!!


----------



## SilkySlim

Ampman said:


> One of my Lanzar 50's the circuit board is from the other one, its a bit on the messed up side of things at the moment the circuit board that is. a cap leaked out and done some serious damage but no biggie ? ill have it in operating condition for long. See the output drivers this thing takes I'd never thought these would be in this amp


That has the tell tell signs of a zed manufactured amp. Notice the sleeves on the outside legs of the output trans. Don't know they had anything to do with it but that is just what i notice.


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok guys I bought two Opti 150's from an old show vehicle I think. They seem to have been modded. One was engraved inside W and S. Both had the resistors replaced with larger but same value as standard. Other than that the amps seem identical but the one with the w had incredible power punch, detail. The S sound was very similar to the other 150's I had maybe closer to a 2150. Anyway a have noticed a slight improvement from the blue/gray XXX series to the Black XXXX series but this was a much bigger difference. I will find out what was done. I must upgrade all of mine absolutely the best sounding car amp I have heard bar none! maybe both home and car! When I get back I will upload pics. 
The person I bought them from had no idea of the history he bought them off of ebay 2-3 years ago.


----------



## smgreen20

Are these the ones that had a gloss/polish on them that was on eBay?


----------



## SilkySlim

Yes they were polished ones I bought them mainly for the heat sinks to experiment with. Wow was I surprised. When I get back I will take gut pics.


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> That has the tell tell signs of a zed manufactured amp. Notice the sleeves on the outside legs of the output trans. Don't know they had anything to do with it but that is just what i notice.


I've got a G&S designs Predator series II PM-225 that I believe Zed had a hand in its build, it has a few similarities of a Lanzar opti, Just my opinion. Most of the G&S amps ive seen were made by PPI and some who built the old school JBL amps as well.


----------



## SilkySlim

Does anyone have a schematic for the old school optI's? 
Does anyone know what the small vertical board on the amp is? Looks like part of the signal preamp/gain?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> Does anyone have a schematic for the old school optI's?
> Does anyone know what the small vertical board on the amp is? Looks like part of the signal preamp/gain?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


If you find a diagram let me know I wouldn't mind having one for my opti 50 I was changing one of the emitter resistors in my amp an I was looking at those boards I believe they have the bias pots mounted on them but ill need to take a another peek at mine.


----------



## SaturnSL1

SilkySlim said:


> Those hearses were bad to the bone they did have some of they coolest demo vehicles but then they had guys suits with hookers looking at them. Like I want to party with the guy with the big Lanzar speaker and his Mercedes? It just didn't make sense to me. That was the majority of the ads in the mags I remember.
> Them they had some just spl monster rip your head off unique bad to the bone demo cars of the time period. I just didn't get it marketing wise.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


lol


----------



## SilkySlim

LOL old school stuff
Marketing
I think that was one of Lanzar's and other good amp man. Biggest down falls was marketing. 
Take a look 
Orion made it's name with hcca in comp. Solid product very similar to Ppi in amp design but focused on comp. Big seller and successful brand. Focused on getting people competing and there for advertising their pretty red powerful amps. Solid amp though too.
Ppi art one of the most attractive amps made. Solid power and clarity. Great dealer/pro comp program for competitors. Really focus marketing now they still have a big following. Very successful. All though did drop of when half of the leadership left to create xtant.

Soundstream we are a simple looking ref. blue box but we sound the best. Then made a few statement pieces tarantula, human Raine, etc. Sales started to take off. Good sounding amps but plug and pray. Hope this one work s. 

Ads great stayed small people who knew sounded great though very clinical. There again had done finicky problems but if you got a good one you were set. Very little marketing support but word of mouth. Found they're niche and lived there.

Rockford the big boy figured out out early market well strong reliable design. Bad boost and strong comp presence. I wouldn't say the best sq by any stretch but strong power.

Then we have Lanzar
Very strong bulletproof design, simple, clean, great sq, great power, bass boost, built in crossover s, just didn't see any problems.
But the marketing was all over the place. Should have followed the soundstream model simple great sound blue box. 
They had so much opportunity. Great demo vehicles. Simple repeatable design all the amps shared the same chassis lower production cost etc. They survived and lasted because of a great product. If they had more marketing vision they would have dominated.
Lanzar should not have trusted their brand to the oldest profession on the planet. Hookers looking for guys with money and big red subs. They might have survived the consolidation to supermarket quality buyout phase intact.



Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok here it is I tracked down the upgrades. Check out the little red rectangle and right beside that there is some other upgraded components. There are a few more but that is the major diff. On the vertical board I will post standard next. They also upgraded the main caps. Did that on both not an audible difference at all.










Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I've been out the past couple of weeks and have a lot of things to catch up on at home and work. Sheer brilliance struck me moments ago and I'll have to bring my amps to work w/ me and dissect them at my desk rather than attempt to find time at home (which just isn't going to happen).

I'm also curious about x-over component differences. Anyone ever tear into them? I have two x4b's and two x2's each gray and black. I've temporarily bench tested each of them against each other (gravy vs. black) and found similar subtle differences in sound quality as the amps--the grays were a little sharper and more lively while the black x-overs were a little warmer and smoother. This was just a brief bench test running my ipod straight into the x-over via $0.35 headphone to RCA cable.


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> Ok here it is I tracked down the upgrades. Check out the little red rectangle and right beside that there is some other upgraded components. There are a few more but that is the major diff. On the vertical board I will post standard next. They also upgraded the main caps. Did that on both not an audible difference at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


Have you checked the outputs for excessive DC offset ? that can affect the SQ quite a bit.


----------



## smgreen20

I won a couple things this morning. 
First up, a LANZAR Opti100Q, a valentine's day gift from my wife and
Secondly, a LANZAR X3 crossover, a gift to myself. Both appear to be in mint condition. It'll be about a week before they arrive so pics will have to wait. 

On a side note, I also won a Clarion CDC605 CD change new for dirt cheap.


----------



## rreed

Aw SERIOUSLY??? I was watching the 100Q and 100 that guy was selling (though not bidding) but where was the x3??? I won a black one once but it was bad on arrival. I got outbid on another BNIB gray one (sold along side the x2 that I won). I so want a gray and a black x3 to go along w/ my gray/black x4b and x2's.

Great score on the 100Q!


----------



## SilkySlim

Good job bud i'm glad i didn't start bidding on it. Almost started for a friend. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

I'm glad you guys didn't bid..... 

Lanzar Opti Drive TMS 100Q Car Amp 4 Channel Old School 100 Q Amplifer Works | eBay

The X3 wasn't even described in the title as LANZAR. So it never cropped up on most peoples radar. I have a search on my phone app that looks for "old school" and as you can see by the title.....

Old School Electronic Crossover RARE | eBay


----------



## SilkySlim

Great score they look very clean that's why we were looking at it. my Buddy just got the 160q that thing was so clean but the power fets were blown all to crap. 
Powered up and showed a green light but know output. At least yours was pulled from a working system. 
I'm going be moving some old school ppi and Zed stuff i have way to many amps right now. pm me if interested. I also have some extra 100's and 50's. All tested.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

That crossover looks good to hope out works or for you.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

The only three amps missing from the stable are a 50c, 200, and 6200. I want two of the 200s though. 

I'm actually thinking of using the 100Q. Front to the tweets, rear to the rears for the kids, 150 to the mids and the 500 to the sub.


----------



## 7018LoHy

just wanted to drop in and say how much I enjoy reading this post. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge on such a great yet often over looked amp.

Ps I just increased my collection as well.....


----------



## smgreen20

7018, welcome to the thread.

Nice pieces there. I have a 160 vs the 160Q. Yours is a bit newer then mine. If you ever get the time, can you pop the bottom off and take some pics of the innards of your 160.


----------



## 7018LoHy

Lanzar 160Q


----------



## SilkySlim

Nice pics 7018 welcome.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Well, it looks as if you had the time. Thank you. I just wanted to compare the 160 to the 160Q.


----------



## rreed

Grr. Guess I'll have to open up my old 160 as well. 

Question on some of the upgrades posted above, what do the red square thingies on the verticle board do compared to the yellow square thingies?


----------



## SilkySlim

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

I guess make it sound better. They you also used black audio file caps throughout the amp and added a cap in a voided space. 
I have gone back and done listening tests between the stock and modded amps. 
verdict.
there is less difference between a modded amp in the stock amp. a greater difference between the modded amps. the 1 labeled Highs much cleaner tighter. the 1 labeled sub not as clear on the high end. the 1 labeled sub did not have the mod on the vertical boards but did have a very large audio file Black Caps. I have yet to try it on subs.

Giving this voice to text a go.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 7018LoHy

any diffrences in the 160q vs 160?


----------



## SilkySlim

Not that I can tell. I have compared the two just seems to be a model# difference. The 160q was from the TMS models. The 160 was from the plus models.
It went Opti plus then opti TMS then the opti 2xxx, xxx=total power @4ohm stereo 050-500, 6200 & 4100, 4150. Then they moved to a new chassis and amp design.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

7018, I haven't had the time to compare them yet. V-day yesterday and tomorrow is my oldest's birthday so I've been in preparation mode. I'll pull up the pics in a day or two and compare them. For the time being..... my V-day gift showed up today. 

LANZAR Opti100Q.
Oh how sweet it is.





































This thing is, how they say, Minty fresh.


----------



## SilkySlim

Very nice my friend! Congrats. Have you fired it up yet?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

No, probably won't have the time until next weekend.

I also manager to snag An RF AF/4HD that needs the power receptacle replaced, so I'll get to that then too.


----------



## SilkySlim

Today is the day we have snow in the south not much have to get outside and play with the kids but then I will have time to get out to the shop and take some good pics of the mods. I have to unbox the amps.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jrs1006

One step closer to a complete old school lanzar build. Still need to choose car though. I picked up over the weekend 2 OA-8's I think 93 or 94 BNIB. They are from pre lanzar flag on dustcap. Maunal only has ZR, OA and LP units. Planning on using as a solid midbass.


----------



## smgreen20

That's my preferred dust cap.


----------



## smgreen20

This guy showed up today. Listed on eBay under the radar. It was just listed as "old school active crossover".

A LANZAR X3


----------



## rreed

I was wondering if it were you who snagged it.  I was about to pull the trigger but have some parts to keep my rigs running I'll need to beg for instead right now. Hated to watch it slide by for so cheap--I need one!!!

Anyways, yes there is a difference b/t the gray vs. black crossovers. Both sound and guts.

Here's a gray x4b:









Black:









And a black x2 for grins, but I'll have to dig out my NIB gray x2 and I'm just to busy/lazy right now:









You'll notice some diodes or whatever giblets missing from the gray to the black (x4b's); scan along the very bottom of the pics for empty spots on the black one. Also the little "pill" looking things change color, as the rectangle thingies, and the bar-shaped thingies.

At a glance, and I was in a hurry stripping my vehicle for sale the other day, but the gray x4b seems to have a livelier, clearer high pass but the black has a tighter, more accurate low pass. Again this was in a very rushes quick comparison in the middle of stripping my old hooptie, I would need more time maybe comparing on the bench. Which I plan on setting up since my entire Lanzar collection is now shelved. It may be a while. I also recall noticing similar results briefly comparing my black x2 against my gray x2.

There is also one other crucial difference in RCA connections, can you spot it? Because you will when you're hooking them up and wondering why the sound comes out of unexpected speakers... :laugh:


----------



## lanzar50c

looking for 4 lanzar lp or dc 12s can anybody help me


----------



## jrs1006

rreed said:


> I was wondering if it were you who snagged it.  I was about to pull the trigger but have some parts to keep my rigs running I'll need to beg for instead right now. Hated to watch it slide by for so cheap--I need one!!!
> 
> Anyways, yes there is a difference b/t the gray vs. black crossovers. Both sound and guts.
> 
> Here's a gray x4b:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a black x2 for grins, but I'll have to dig out my NIB gray x2 and I'm just to busy/lazy right now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice some diodes or whatever giblets missing from the gray to the black (x4b's); scan along the very bottom of the pics for empty spots on the black one. Also the little "pill" looking things change color, as the rectangle thingies, and the bar-shaped thingies.
> 
> At a glance, and I was in a hurry stripping my vehicle for sale the other day, but the gray x4b seems to have a livelier, clearer high pass but the black has a tighter, more accurate low pass. Again this was in a very rushes quick comparison in the middle of stripping my old hooptie, I would need more time maybe comparing on the bench. Which I plan on setting up since my entire Lanzar collection is now shelved. It may be a while. I also recall noticing similar results briefly comparing my black x2 against my gray x2.
> 
> There is also one other crucial difference in RCA connections, can you spot it? Because you will when you're hooking them up and wondering why the sound comes out of unexpected speakers... :laugh:


Wow some minor changes. I did notice the difference in the outputs!!! They are reversed. I wonder what SQ difference there is between the two.


----------



## Ampman

jrs1006 said:


> Wow some minor changes. I did notice the difference in the outputs!!! They are reversed. I wonder what SQ difference there is between the two.


Now that's pertty nice, they used a SG3525A PWM controller to get the plus an minus rails most crossovers use a 555 timer for that but with that PWM controller those voltages will remain constant cause it will compensate for any dips there might be in the battery voltage.. Very cool old school ?


----------



## rreed

Here you go, jrs1006.  And yes it did throw me off when I hooked it up, the moment I plugged in my RCAs the sound would come out of the wrong speaker. Had me chasing all over the place trying to figure out WTF. I think at the time my "fix" was to swap RCA/speaker wire at the amp until I later noticed what was up. The case is labelled "backwards" as well. I think the labels are actually correct, it's the red/white on the RCAs that's wrong.



rreed said:


> At a glance, and I was in a hurry stripping my vehicle for sale the other day, but the gray x4b seems to have a livelier, clearer high pass but the black has a tighter, more accurate low pass. Again this was in a very rushes quick comparison in the middle of stripping my old hooptie, I would need more time maybe comparing on the bench. Which I plan on setting up since my entire Lanzar collection is now shelved. It may be a while. I also recall noticing similar results briefly comparing my black x2 against my gray x2.





Ampman said:


> Now that's pertty nice, they used a SG3525A PWM controller to get the plus an minus rails most crossovers use a 555 timer for that but with that PWM controller those voltages will remain constant cause it will compensate for any dips there might be in the battery voltage.. Very cool old school &#55357;&#56846;


Um... What?


----------



## smgreen20

Ampman said:


> Now that's pertty nice, they used a SG3525A PWM controller to get the plus an minus rails most crossovers use a 555 timer for that but with that PWM controller those voltages will remain constant cause it will compensate for any dips there might be in the battery voltage.. Very cool old school ?


I'm willing to bet that's how they were to achieve their "30 volt technology" that all their signal processors run at.


----------



## smgreen20

lanzar50c said:


> looking for 4 lanzar lp or dc 12s can anybody help me


Some guy selling 2 DC12's right now on eBay. His listing is a bit messed up. The listing has it at $550 each, I questioned him about it, it's $550 for both. Still a bit high but at least you're aware of the sale.


----------



## jrs1006

Hey does anyone know how I can recone or recoil a LP-15. I have one that is not quite blown but can tell part of the coil is coming off of the former.


----------



## smgreen20

I managed to pick this up today from a friend of mine still BNIB. LANZAR LP12-4, price disclosed.
He bought this back in '95 along with 2 other 8 ohm versions. I sold my Audison LRx5.1k A LOT sooner then I intended, but I'm glad. Now I have the money to get the final pieces I need for the makeover. 





































Right now I have a very modest set up.
HU: Clarion DRX9575Rz
DSP: Clarion DPH7500z
AMP: LANZAR Opti160
Front speakers only
Tweeters: Clarion SSS601
Mid: Silver Flute 6 1/2"s
Passive Xover: Clarion SSS601, chs 1 & 2
SUB: LANZAR LP12-4, Bridged chs 3 & 4. 


All of this is to change, just not 100% sure on what all/how I'll be running things.


----------



## rreed

Alright so who got off w/ the 100Q from eBay for a song the other night?:tongue2:


----------



## smgreen20

I was upset with myself, i forgot all about that one. Sold for $41. Decent price.


----------



## rreed

Decent??? Haha, I was figuring at the last moment it would go for $100+ Yeah I'm about to throw up all over myself about it too.


----------



## smgreen20

Looks like it had been through hell and back and it's missing 2 screws. So yea, decent.


----------



## smgreen20

Got this, and a few other Clarion items the other day. Here's what pertains to this thread.

LANZAR MWS6.5 6 1/2" mids. These things are quit a bit beefier then I realized, also nib from '93.


----------



## SilkySlim

Nice score can't wait to see the OS Lanzar system. I always liked those mids strong midbass if I remember right. But it has been so long. I hope I can post some pics soon. Just help a buddy build his first set of FG door speaker enclosures for a set of Lanzar dc 6.4 midbasses. In a 1991 work car got to find a better match on the dye though. Basic cosmetics but they sound great big improvement. .55cuft sealed


----------



## rreed

+1. Anyone have the t/s for those?


----------



## smgreen20

Give me a day or two and I'll check and see if I do. If not, I'm sure I can get it, but it'll take a bit longer.


----------



## SilkySlim

Do you need the t/s for the DC 6.4?
Or the mws??
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Will add 90% complete pics soon. very tight midbass and smooth on the midrange.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Sorry, trying to get my inbox cleared out. 5 message limit is a little restrictive. The MWS 6.5's are what I'm looking for. One of my manuals or brochures might have a piece or two of t/s but I wasn't sure if they come w/ them NIB. I don't believe the 4's or 5's do.

And my buddy had a set of the DC6.4 components back in the day, loved them. Said the same thing about them and he was running them on the rear deck of his Civic, open air into the trunk. Then he left his car open when he went to a meth house one night and came back outside to find his car gone. When the cops found it four days later on the side of the road 20 miles away his DC Pro 15, Kicker and Pioneer amps, and DC speakers were all gone. Dumba**.


----------



## SilkySlim

That sucks.


----------



## armyvet

After looking at this thread i almost forgot i had a lanzar opti 2500.I used to "collect" a few ol skool amps before kids came then priorities shifted.I prolly have more old fosgate and mtx than anything.I bought the opti to run but then cam across a mtx 1000d which i figured would be easier on the electrical system so it was retired to the basement ever since.prolly been 7 or 8 yrs now.i have an affinity for ol skool audio lol it used to be almost addicting


----------



## SilkySlim

Oh it's very addicting but much less harmful to your body than most addictive substances. If you are married she may be more of a threat to your physical health than the addiction is. The after effects. LOL 
I Think of the people hear on the forum maybe mummified with their amps when they pass. At least the amps will be with someone who loves them. 
Ok so my first reaction is call dibs on the 2500 (if you ever decide to get rid of it) The addiction kicking in. I think my favorite amp of all time. Mobile for sure, would always like to add one to the collection. My friends think I'm crazy but I would run on every speaker in the car not just subs but 3-4way active setup using all 2500's. Overkill maybe but to me there is no substitute for massive amounts of clean headroom. Something in both home and car about these ultra high current amps smooth, effortless sound quality.
I still need to try a 50c.


----------



## SilkySlim

So Mr. Green how is the build going? Or should I say rebuild? I have been doing friends builds and my wife's car first so I am way behind on mine.


----------



## BoostedOne

SilkySlim said:


> Oh it's very addicting but much less harmful to your body than most addictive substances. If you are married she may be more of a threat to your physical health than the addiction is. The after effects. LOL
> I Think of the people hear on the forum maybe mummified with their amps when they pass. At least the amps will be with someone who loves them.
> Ok so my first reaction is call dibs on the 2500 (if you ever decide to get rid of it) The addiction kicking in. I think my favorite amp of all time. Mobile for sure, would always like to add one to the collection. My friends think I'm crazy but I would run on every speaker in the car not just subs but 3-4way active setup using all 2500's. Overkill maybe but to me there is no substitute for massive amounts of clean headroom. Something in both home and car about these ultra high current amps smooth, effortless sound quality.
> I still need to try a 50c.



You got that right.. I keep buying stuff I usually have no idea what I am going to do with it.. I need to stay out the pawn shops and off Ebay. But if I could only get matched sets of stuff I would be all set, LOL...

Unfortunately my collection is like a patchwork quilt, "who's who" of the 1990s.. A little US Amps, a little HCCA.. A little Opti, a little ProMOS... A little RF DSM, a little MTX Thunder.. A little Power Class, a little RF a2.. A little Art, a little Orion SX..
About the only "set" of anything I have is 2 Art PPI A600s, an A200, and just added the A600/AX404 from the classifieds.. Other set would be an Opti 2250 and Opti 50.. I'd like to find a mid sized opti, but apparantly y'all are already scouring all the Ebay ads, LOL..

I'm probably going to unload my HCCA, Pro Mos and DSM if I can ever get off my butt and decide on a price and upload pics.:laugh: Unfortunately the stuff just sits on the closet shelves.


----------



## SilkySlim

True that lol opti2250 any pics or was that a mistype? Opti2150,2100,2050,2500,2200 I didn't know they made a 2250. But if you need a mid level shoot me a pm I may have an extra Opti 100 or 50 at any given time.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BoostedOne

Oooooooops! Yeah mistype lol. Its a Opti 2500! My bad. Senior moment lol

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

You too? lol 
Let me know of I can help out?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BoostedOne

Maybe! I have to think what vehicle these will go in first. 

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

My wife thinks i'm crazy because I want to buy more cars so I can use more amps.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

I get heckeled at work from the guys about that.


----------



## rreed

My problem is I have more speakers, woofers, and x-overs than amps, but only two vehicles out of five that I could put any of it in.


----------



## secretsquirl

f
Custom screen printed opti g2m noise gate


----------



## jrs1006

secretsquirl said:


> f
> Custom screen printed opti g2m noise gate


That is amazing!!! How and who did the work? I have two BNIB units that I would love to make gloss black or titanium silver.


----------



## secretsquirl

We took it to a screen printer and the scanned it before we powder coated it then took it back and they rescreened it that was in 1994 though We did everything amps fuse blocks everything


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

So enter the "new" guy on the forum. I say new in that I stumbled onto this thread while playing looking actually for Lanzar reviews. I recently saw one of bigdwiz bench tests on the Opti 50C and have been hoping to see a few more models being tested. 

So I've been a Lanzar fan since around 1992-1993 when I got my first one brand new in the box from a pawn shop. I loved that Opti 200 until the day I sold it probably around 2000 or 2001. :cry2: I had that amp in 3 different cars including my rolled 1992 Maxima and hands down couldn't kill the amp. I ended up wheels up and my sub box on top of the amp and it kept playing while we were all hanging upside down. So now I've found the lair of Ebay snipers I've dealt with on and off for the past what 15 or so years. 

I'm rebuilding an Acura Legend (see *the Mad Scientist* :evilgrin: over on acuralegend.org) and my audio system will be powered by Lanzar amps hands down. I see most of the questions (yeah I read *ALL* 10 pages) and requests for specs and so forth have been answered so I don't have anything to add... for the moment.  

Now for the info I'm betting several of you want to know is "What has the 'new guy' got?"  Am I right? Well here is the current breakdown after my latest acquisition this past Friday.

Lanzar Opti 500 (three including a new never install store display )
Lanzar Opti 200 (two one never used and the other like new with about 10 hours of playing time )
Lanzar Opti 160 (only one and its the newly obtained one )
Lanzar Opti 150 (only one)
Lanzar Opti 100 (two one of which is mint from a competition install the seller had that looked *very* nice )
Lanzar Opti 50 (two of them one being from a local estate sale the the seller posted on Ebay. I met him at a "neutral" location and saved on shipping. :surprised: )
Lanzar Opti 50C (only one BNIB that came with the spec book I believe sales catalog, original purchase receipt and "on sale" posted price decal :laugh

I've got an Encore X10 crossover I believe and have bought and sold at least a few EQ30s, 2200s, 2500s and my old 4150 that come to mind. :blush:

I had hoped to learn the truth of a 500s capabilities as I've got some nice little BNIB Eclipse Titaniums that will be part of my in progress car rebuild. I'd hoped they would put out closer to 1500 rms but in my application 1000 rms should still get the job done! :beerchug: My interior speakers are Diamond Hex and at present I'm looking at about a 5 amp install (each sub gets one, front stage gets a 200, midbass get a 200, rear fill is being debated at either a 100 or the 150) and have plenty of electrical upgrades and additions that should make this a *really* fun ride. :coolgleamA:

So I'll be checking in here as I now have a *third* home! :thumbsup:


----------



## rreed

Coincidentally I was just now perusing some of my Lanzar propaganda and found some t/s parameters for the MWS 6.5's some of us have and would like to build proper enclosures.

Right now I'm just running mine straight off the HU in some trapezoidal prefab R/T boxes until they get migrated to rear panel enclosures I'll build in one of my old wagon vehicles. They don't wake up until you pour on the watts (well, volume anyways) but do have an impressive low-end whump and thump. I'm thinking in the proper enclosures and a good Lanzar amp they might even make reasonable little subwoofers!

I haven't run these through any box building programs yet, been way too busy lately:

From 1995:
MWS6.5
FS: 54.29
Qts: 0.39
RMS: 100 watts
Vas: 0.48


----------



## smgreen20

reed, thanks for the specs. I meant to look myself but lost track. The only issue I see is you have it stated as 100 wrms, the box (even as seen in your pic) and the 2 brochures I have state 150 wrms/per. 


94laGS, 
Welcome aboard. I was half tempted to ask if you wanted to part with an Opti200, though I'm sure I knew the answer. As luck would have it, one just popped up on ebay for $100 shipped, so I jumped on it. 
Lanzar Optidrive 200 PWM Old School | eBay
I'll pay for it tomorrow after I get off work. 

Now all that's needed for me to have one of each is an Opti50c and an Opti6200. I don't care for the color series that the 6200 belongs in, but I want that one. I _try_ go for the lighter blueish colored ones. That said, I have an EQ30 and a X3 both in the darker 6200 color.

I'm also looking for an LXR200 if you happen to ever see one, please let me know.


----------



## SilkySlim

Great find Mr. Green! Glad you got your collection complete.

94laGS,
Welcome, 
Glad to see a new OS Lanzar Opti Build. I also feel the need to know i am not alone in the addiction! LOL 
Very, very, nice collection. The truth on the 500's I have reports unverified independently in a two ohm load mono they will (and can with the power supply and cooling) pull 220+ amps of current a piece. Now that should equate to roughly around 1400-1500 watts so you should be right on target. I do know this they sound great!
The 50C is my Elanor. Can't seem to find one or get the timing with cash. Would love to get my hands on a 6200 as well.


----------



## SilkySlim

secretsquirl
I forgot to welcome you too. Nice FG work. Impressive! How was the cost of the screen printing? That was nice work.


----------



## rreed

smgreen20 said:


> reed, thanks for the specs. I meant to look myself but lost track. The only issue I see is you have it stated as 100 wrms, the box (even as seen in your pic) and the 2 brochures I have state 150 wrms/per.


Correct, that's what the brochure says. And some of the boxes I've seen as well as the mid woofers. I don't think I have any pics of the backs of mine but I think they might also denote 100 watts on them despite 150 on the box. I would have to pull them to verify but that ain't gonna happen any time soon. Anyways, yes over time I've seen both 100 and 150 watts for the MWS 6.5's on woofer or box or propaganda.

Also it might be important to note that they appear to be 6 3/4," not 6 1/2." I originally opened up the holes in these R/T boxes that were 6 1/2" to fit a set of old leftover Blaupunkt 6 3/4" full ranges. When I picked up these MWS 6.5's I thought I'd either have to fab up an "adapter" board over the front of them or just buy another set of boxes but was surprised when they just dropped right into the 6 3/4" holes and the mounting holes lined right up.


----------



## smgreen20

I just had my MWS6.5's out last week and i do believe the back started 150w.


----------



## rreed

Ah, found the original f/s post of the 6.5's I picked up (meaning, these are mine):


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Thanks for the welcome Mr. Green & SilkySlim!  Well my Lanzar amps like my Legend will all get buried with me still at the wheel. :deal2: Nice find on that 200.  I didn't even see it but I've been busy. I scored on this one here last.Lanzar Opti Drive Plus 160 Car Amplifier 4 Channel Great for Highs | eBay As for the LXRs I typically don't even look for them as I'm focused mainly on the blue and white Optidrive series as they match my car color scheme. In fact I've had a number of my amps power and ground cables custom changed for my little project.  If I come across any I know whom to call!  The 50C had been my unicorn for a long time also but when one came up about a year ago and the condition it was in I was shocked it didn't sell. The seller listed it twice before I got my hands on it. BNIB for $440 shipped was a steal if you ask me. I guess I should go all Photobucket crazy like I am on the other forum and post up pics of these toys... Nah you guys probably aren't all that interested in that kind of thing. :jester:


----------



## rreed

I have a NIB LXR 10 for which I'd love either an LXR50 amp or preferably trade the woofer for a 2050 or Opti 50...


----------



## smgreen20

We both have MWS6.5 mids, yours I'm guessing are older as your box appears to be all white. Mine had the red white and blue on it. I found a pic of mine on my phone and they do say 150w. I'm sure i posted a pic of them. 


I too have an LXR 10, nib and a used LXR50 as well as a nib LXR50 on layaway. The only LXR amp I'm missing is the 200. That was my first amp ever, should've never sold it.


----------



## rreed

That's what I've noticed, the newer ones are 150 watts and older seem to be listed as 100. My brochure is from 1995 so I'm wondering if at the gray to black change at 1996 they upped the wattage? 

Mine are indeed older (Lanzar Sound vs. Lanzar Car Audio or whatever) so maybe that's why they're 100 watters. I can't swear but seems like I saw 1995 on my box somewhere. I dunno if they later found out they were capable of handling more, the motor changed, or what.

I saw some old triangle logo 6.5's once but I think they passed w/o getting picked up. I wanted them badly. I think they were 100 watts. I see new red/white/blue 150 watt ones come up every now and then. 

I'd love to compare old vs. new 6.5's, I know there's quite a bit of difference in sound quality b/t my old orange surround/triangle logo MD4's and my newer black/red white blue logo MD4's. The old orange ones have a bigger/better lower midrange; richer sound while the newer ones seem to have a bit of a bump in the upper midrange.

Same in my MWS 5's, I have a set of old Lanzar Sound and some newer ones; the newer ones have a set of holes in the cone underneath the dust cap but the old ones don't. Seems like the (used) newer ones had slightly better upper mid but the old ones were BNIB so weren't broke in when I compared them side by side.

Right now I'm running these old 6.5's behind the seat in the prefab boxes, my old 5 1/4's in the doors, and a set of TXS or TWS (whichever was the mylar dome tweeter of 1996-ish) in the dash. All off the HU, I have a set of Altec Lansing (stop laughing) passive x-overs I picked up ages ago to split the mids/tweeters. The overall system needs some midranges instead of all mid woofers but it's getting me by for now. Lanzar speakers really cry out for an amplifier though, they just don't do well straight off the HU.


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> So enter the "new" guy on the forum. I say new in that I stumbled onto this thread while playing looking actually for Lanzar reviews. I recently saw one of bigdwiz bench tests on the Opti 50C and have been hoping to see a few more models being tested.
> 
> So I've been a Lanzar fan since around 1992-1993 when I got my first one brand new in the box from a pawn shop. I loved that Opti 200 until the day I sold it probably around 2000 or 2001. :cry2: I had that amp in 3 different cars including my rolled 1992 Maxima and hands down couldn't kill the amp. I ended up wheels up and my sub box on top of the amp and it kept playing while we were all hanging upside down. So now I've found the lair of Ebay snipers I've dealt with on and off for the past what 15 or so years.
> 
> I'm rebuilding an Acura Legend (see *the Mad Scientist* :evilgrin: over on acuralegend.org) and my audio system will be powered by Lanzar amps hands down. I see most of the questions (yeah I read *ALL* 10 pages) and requests for specs and so forth have been answered so I don't have anything to add... for the moment.
> 
> Now for the info I'm betting several of you want to know is "What has the 'new guy' got?"  Am I right? Well here is the current breakdown after my latest acquisition this past Friday.
> 
> Lanzar Opti 500 (three including a new never install store display )
> Lanzar Opti 200 (two one never used and the other like new with about 10 hours of playing time )
> Lanzar Opti 160 (only one and its the newly obtained one )
> Lanzar Opti 150 (only one)
> Lanzar Opti 100 (two one of which is mint from a competition install the seller had that looked *very* nice )
> Lanzar Opti 50 (two of them one being from a local estate sale the the seller posted on Ebay. I met him at a "neutral" location and saved on shipping. :surprised: )
> Lanzar Opti 50C (only one BNIB that came with the spec book I believe sales catalog, original purchase receipt and "on sale" posted price decal :laugh
> 
> I've got an Encore X10 crossover I believe and have bought and sold at least a few EQ30s, 2200s, 2500s and my old 4150 that come to mind. :blush:
> 
> I had hoped to learn the truth of a 500s capabilities as I've got some nice little BNIB Eclipse Titaniums that will be part of my in progress car rebuild. I'd hoped they would put out closer to 1500 rms but in my application 1000 rms should still get the job done! :beerchug: My interior speakers are Diamond Hex and at present I'm looking at about a 5 amp install (each sub gets one, front stage gets a 200, midbass get a 200, rear fill is being debated at either a 100 or the 150) and have plenty of electrical upgrades and additions that should make this a *really* fun ride. :coolgleamA:
> 
> So I'll be checking in here as I now have a *third* home! :thumbsup:


Chaka that looks like one fun build! I just gave up my baby a 2008 TL-S. Almost put a really nice build in it. I'm saving the Ultimate Opti build for an BMW E39 M5! That is my plan I will be doing my trials on a E39 530i to get ready for exactly what I want. I can have a little more freedom with the pods etc. to experiment. Can't wait to see more! Let me know if I can help you out. Remember even in a 4ohm load mono they are still very high current amps with very consistent output and great control over speakers so you should be happy with the sound. Good Luck.


----------



## smgreen20

Rreed, I must say I'm a bit jealous. I just found a set of nib MWS6.5's last month. I rarely see them if ever. I would love to have a set of the 5 1/4's and 4's. Your 6.5's are from 91/92. I have the '93 brochure and the mids in that are the ones I have.


----------



## rreed

Here's some more speaker prawn for you, how about the Unholy Trinity? Haha

My old MWS6.5's, I think new 5's, and new MD4's:









My old MWS5's (BNIB!!!):









And when my old orange MD4's arrived I giggled at myself playing Tetris w/ them and some of my new MD4's (don't have all the Tetris pics though):









Total midbass/midrange/tweeter drivers I have:
(1) Set old MWS6.5's (duh)
(2) Sets MWS5's (1) old and (1) new
(3) Sets MD4's (1) old and (2) new
(1) Set TXS/TWS tweeters; whichever the mylar dome ones were
(1) Set DC Pro silk dome tweeters

Subwoofers:
(1) ZR 15 8-ohm (used as home theater subwoofer for a long time)
(1) ZR 12 4-ohm ("Black Betty," always been w/ me since high school)
(1) LN or ZR 10 4-ohm (BNIB, white box, orange surround w/ newer logo, I forget if it's LN or ZR)
(1) LXR 10 4-ohm (BNIB, got tired of seeing the guy posting it in ebay over and over again so I picked it up)


----------



## smgreen20

If you ever decide to sell a set of the MD4's please come to me first.

The tweeters you have are the TXS. 

I have a set of the TWS's, nib, and almost snagged a second set.

The LXR10 I've got came from the same guy.


----------



## rreed

Oh! I forgot I also once had a set of the two-way 4's back in the 90s, w/ the crummy little tweeter in the center. Not the best sounding highs but I stumbled onto them for a sweet deal so I picked them up. Loaned them to a buddy and forgot about them, they went w/ his car when he traded it in.  I still have the original grills though, I run them over a set of my MD4's and it looks purdy.

I'd trade my left nut (or maybe right) for a set of two-way 6 1/2's or especially 6x9's that had the real dome tweeter in them. I knew a guy who had a set of the 6x9's, he said it was like having a set of 12's on the rear deck. I never got to hear them though. Another buddy told me about the set of 6 1/2's on the sound board sounding like a nice big set of home theater speakers, good wide full range sound. Those were the days.


----------



## smgreen20

I was outbid on the LP10-8 on ebay last night. Pissed me off. $82 all said and done. I didn't have any extra after snagging the Opti200. I'll keep looking for another one. I'm sure if I'm patient enough, another one will surface. 

rreed, back in '96ish a friend of mine had some 6x9 Infinity Kappas in those 6x9 boxes and you would've swore that he had at least 2 10"s, but he had no subs at all. I knew then some 6x9s would slam.


----------



## rreed

I really hope someone here picked up that ancient relic nib LC 15.


----------



## SilkySlim

I haven't been able to get in on any of the excitement. I am spending money for the speakers in my build and tracking down Elanor

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

rreed said:


> I really hope someone here picked up that ancient relic nib LC 15.


The same guy that bought that LP10-8 bought the LC15. That ass.


----------



## SilkySlim

Has any one run an Opti 2200 or 200 in a 2 ohm mono load as a daily driver? Forced air cooled of course.


----------



## J31Rob

Don't hesitate to let me know how I can help out with some info. Have a 150, 160, 200 and 50c all in my possession right now.


----------



## J31Rob

SilkySlim said:


> Has any one run an Opti 2200 or 200 in a 2 ohm mono load as a daily driver? Forced air cooled of course.


I did recently. Only issue I saw was clipping. When the music quality was down and amp was seeing under 4 ohm it would protect.. then pop right back out. If you've got a good quality track then you won't have an issue. Same goes for the rest of them I mentioned in the previous post.


----------



## Nicks84

SilkySlim said:


> Has any one run an Opti 2200 or 200 in a 2 ohm mono load as a daily driver? Forced air cooled of course.


I have a 200 Plus. I run mine at 2 ohm mono as a daily driver and have never had problems with it. But I have not ran it for more than an hr straight, since I'm always at my destination by that time.

My only advice is to make sure your gains are set right and that you are not completely abusing it. It should be fine.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thank's everyone I'll be running it for 2 ohm for SQL (but sub duty) anyway not driving it to hard. Thanks again JR31Rob finally scrapped up enough for Elanor. On her way. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jrs1006

Hey everyone I just picked up a pair of ZR12S4's. Can anyone compare these to the later SE series 12. I had a pair of SE 10's and loved them. Hoping I made a good choice here.


----------



## J31Rob

Sold my 50c. Hate to see it go.


----------



## J31Rob

Been using my Optidrive Plus 160 in my Toyota on a pair of Sundown Neo Pro 6.5 and Selenium ST350s. 3way active with Alpine 9887. Rear channels bridged at 2 ohm for the Sundowns (80ish wrms) and 8 ohm on the Seleniums (20ish wrms). Needless to say it performs like you wouldn't believe.


----------



## SilkySlim

I bet it sounds great. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## J31Rob

Have an S10 I'm gonna throw some old school mixed with new school into as well. Thinking about using h the rest of the Lanzars I've got on some CDT 3" midrange, CDT m6+ 6.5" mid bass and some 1" silk some CDT tweeters and will likely use an 8" of some sort for sub.


----------



## smgreen20

Rob, I get off at 5 everyday. You're going to have to meet me at work some day. I work at Nanshan, or maybe a weekend when I'm off we can meet. I'd like to hear your setup.

Currently I'm running an Opti50 on Clarion SSS601 tweeters, Opti150 on LANZAR CS64 mids, and an Opti500 on a Clarion SSW1200.


----------



## rreed

jrs1006 said:


> Hey everyone I just picked up a pair of ZR12S4's. Can anyone compare these to the later SE series 12. I had a pair of SE 10's and loved them. Hoping I made a good choice here.


Back in the day I was running my ZR12 in a 1.77 cu. ft. Aeorport 4" ported box off one of my 2050's in my '96 Grand Cherokee and my buddy had a set of SE10's off an LXR 200 in ~.75-ish each (I think?) sealed boxes in his standard cab Nissan pickup.

I know it's a little apples to oranges but even listening to my ZR12 at the back of the vehicle w/ the back hatch open, my ZR12 was bigger and boomier than the silky smoothness of his SE10s. Yes I know it's a large ported box compared to two sealed boxes but a comparison was requested. People always (and still do) make fun of me for being a numbers guy; the EBP of my ZR12 called (loudly) for a ported box and his SE10's came right in the middle so would work either way. We opted for building two sealed boxes to help save space in his tiny pickup cab. There is also the difference of my Opti 2050 vs. his LXR amp so count that for what it's worth.

Anyways, my ZR12 was bigger sounding and kicked harder than his SE10s but only by a little. Volume/SPL is hard to compare since mine was a wagon-type vehicle and his was a standard pickup cab, I think even listening at the back of the vehicle w/ the hatch open mine might have been the tiniest bit louder but I'm sure if you ask him he would say the same about his compared to mine. Mine had the sound of a heavy hitting brute while his was more silky smooth w/ more finesse. Both were very musically accurate; kick drums sounded the same, bass tracks sounded the same, etc. but mine just had that bigger boomier thunder of a ported box. His was tighter and a little more precise. Again, a ported 12 vs. two sealed 10's.

That's about the best I can get you for ZR vs. SE. When I went to a bigger lift and bigger tires in my Grand I didn't have room for the large box so had to ditch it and another buddy gave me a prefab pickup box to throw in my ZR12. I think somewhere around .55-.75-is space, sealed. My ZR HATES it. ZR's have always been very high on EBP and cry out for a large ported box. I've heard lots of them in sealed boxes, even large ones, and they just don't sound right. They lose their musical accuracy, their big warm deep low end. If you feel speakers have a personality then you'll know it when you've heard ZR's in their proper ported boxes then suddenly get thrown into a sealed box.

Be prepared to build a large, ported box for them. Yes you made the right choice, my buddy's SE10's were great and I did love them but I prefer the bigger boomier sound of a ported box. The ZR's do maintain the musical accuracy of a sealed box woofer though so it's a win-win. We'll need to see some pics of what you end up w/.


----------



## SilkySlim

It has begun. 

Finally the Opti build. Gutted the 5 and started. Making my final decisions on speakers but sticking an OS Lanzar DC 10 was bnib and Oz high ends I had laying around in while the final decisions are made. Really close. I got the Clarion for now. We'll see if it stays may add a Helix CDSP or go to a 99. Got to have something!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

I'm diehard Clarion all the way, so that will remain my choice of HU. A CZ for now, but later on an NX702. 

Got this little gem, well... not little, but I finally got my hands on an Opti200. Now, I want more. This one's in overall great condition. The worst of it looks to be the chips/chunks of paint missing. Other then that.... 





































I'll try and get some gut shots tomorrow.

As a side, this also showed up, a Clarion 8825RT and storage case. I was after the carrying case more then the radio. The HU is missing the pull out sleeve that stays in the car. The parts vender shows available, but not in stock?????


----------



## rreed

My buddy and I were Kenwood fans back in the day. The stereo shop guy who was the regional Lanzar dealer was a Clarion guy and another friend of mine did run a Clarion HU w/ 18 disc changer in his truck.

What is it you guys love about the Clarions? That's not a challenge, just wondering what you like about them. My buddy w/ the Nissan would drone on and on about some Clarion half DIN EQ that was a display screen w/ seperate module box thingy, the display would put on different "shows" I think like snow falling, etc. I know that helps a lot.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm on my phone at work so I'll say why when I get home. But I believe the clarion piece you are referring to is the clarion 920EQ. I currently have 1 and a half of those and am actually bidding on the other half on eBay right now.


----------



## SilkySlim

Is there a reason sq wise to go with the nx series?
Also new addition.









I also have install pics if interested.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## J31Rob

smgreen20 said:


> Rob, I get off at 5 everyday. You're going to have to meet me at work some day. I work at Nanshan, or maybe a weekend when I'm off we can meet. I'd like to hear your setup.
> 
> Currently I'm running an Opti50 on Clarion SSS601 tweeters, Opti150 on LANZAR CS64 mids, and an Opti500 on a Clarion SSW1200.


I'm in Frankfort. I've not got anything but my doors hooked up at the current time. No sub stage. Just got hired on full time at NHK here in Frankfort.. how is Nanshan? ..more than willing to give you a demo though. In Lafayette OFTEN. PM me your cell.


----------



## J31Rob

I've got the following for sale: 

*Lanzar Optidrive Plus 200:* http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...plus-200-old-school-us-built.html#post1867591

*Lanzar Optidrive Plus 150:* http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...lanzar-opti-plus-150-old-school-us-built.html

Also have a 160 that is currently installed in my car. 10/10 condition all around. No flaws. Will take offers on that and get pictures if you'd like me to.


----------



## smgreen20

Time will tell how Nanshan will be but for now the place is great. Couldn't really ask for more out of an employer. I'll send you a PM. 

Silk, can I trade you X3's..... lol 
I have the newer colored version from 96 to 99.


----------



## SilkySlim

No sweat if you need it. I can't ship til next week. Is yours in good condition? If so no problems.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Wassup Lanzar crew? The DC-10 is ready for business. Excuse the temp box. You have to like that Hollywood sound old school foam tape and the old school monster cable speaker wire!

















Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Maaaaaan that takes me back right there!!! Where's the port??? What are you going to push it w/????


----------



## SilkySlim

Man its hot here! Got to take a break. The A pillar wiring kicked my butt. I'm running it sealed for SQ and Ext. We'll see temp just to get me through. I know they like ported. I am just not a fan especially not in the trunk. Hatchback, SUV, etc. maybe.

1.3 cuft with poly. On the largest side for extended Fb.










Just getting something in for a weekend drive! 
It looks like I'll pair it with an Opti 2200 or 200.
2200 on Oz superman 5 1/4" separates.
2150 on factory seperates in rear.
For the time being.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Sweet. I like how they list (small, let alone any) box sizes for the OA's.  Man I'd love to hear that thing, ported or not. I didn't care as much for the DC's as much as the ZR's but still, it would be like uncovering a fossil for me.


----------



## SilkySlim

Lol I didn't even catch that. I did want that one on Ebay just for old times sake.
I ran the jls and then 2 Oz 12h. Freeair. Man they were beauties and sounded so good. Some one helped me move and they got stuck in the attic and the suspension got messed up. Trying to find the right guy to fix them!
Never tried the oa's though.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

I was just mearly throwing it out there as a joke, but if you are ok with it, yes I'd love to trade. I'll pay shipping both ways.










PM me and we can go from there.


----------



## smgreen20

Lets see if this takes anyone back.










From left to right 
12" LP 4 ohm
10" LP 8 ohm, looking for another
10" LXR 4 ohm
8" DC 4 ohm


----------



## rreed

Got the same lxr 10 in the garage, box and all. We should work out a trade of some sort, you need two of them.


----------



## SilkySlim

Those look good lp's I think were my favorite Lanzar subs.
Nice.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Buickmike

Dang I miss my old Lanzar stuff. I had My Pro Plus 12's were LOUD. I did end up with my old Optidrive plus 100 again, but it goes into protection mode immediately and I haven't figured out why yet. I replaced the big caps, opto couplers, and mosfets with no luck. I missed my old Opti Drive 50, so I got another one on Ebay. Such a clean amp. If I ever fix the 100, I may put them in my current project.


----------



## Ampman

Buickmike said:


> Dang I miss my old Lanzar stuff. I had My Pro Plus 12's were LOUD. I did end up with my old Optidrive plus 100 again, but it goes into protection mode immediately and I haven't figured out why yet. I replaced the big caps, opto couplers, and mosfets with no luck. I missed my old Opti Drive 50, so I got another one on Ebay. Such a clean amp. If I ever fix the 100, I may put them in my current project.


Have you checked the output drivers TIP-35C & TIP-36C on either channel for shorts try checking the output driver emitter resistors too some times they can open an cause it to go into protection as well.


----------



## Buickmike

Ampman said:


> Have you checked the output drivers TIP-35C & TIP-36C on either channel for shorts try checking the output driver emitter resistors too some times they can open an cause it to go into protection as well.


I'm pretty amature here, so I'm not sure what TIP-35C & TIP-36C are. At least I don't have anything labeled on the board that way. I already replaced the mosfet drivers and checked out the resistors coming off of them. At one point I removed all the output transistors and tested them. They all tested out the same. 

One other thing here is that it plays music just fine out of both channels for the couple seconds before it goes into protect mode.


----------



## J31Rob

I'm willing to take a hit on the Lanzar amps I've got if someone would like to make an offer for the set. That includes a purple 150, 200 and 160.

Oh and here are some 50c gut shots:





































Shipped it out Monday. Hated to have to get rid of it.


----------



## J31Rob

Optidrive Plus 200 gut shots:


----------



## J31Rob

Optidrive Plus 200 gut shots:


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

I'm just biding my time lurking and looking for a cosmetically outstanding Opti 500 to come up for sale. I'm hoping to complete a set for my install in my Legend project car and have one that I'd love to put in. One came up on Ebay a few months back with a premium cost but the seller said his wife convinced him to pull it down and keep his dream system alive. I would have bought it but $600 was a bit steep. :surprised:

Didn't one of the guys in here state back *many* *many* pages back that they had some of the heatsinks repainted and screen printed (I'm guessing to look like new originals)?? I'd love to find out whom they used and let them possibly just redo my two used ones as they could use a little love imho.


----------



## Ampman

Ampman said:


> Have you checked the output drivers TIP-35C & TIP-36C on either channel for shorts try checking the output driver emitter resistors too some times they can open an cause it to go into protection as well.


I will post a pic later of the output drivers I'm having problems uploading pics at the moment which is becoming the norm with my tap talk app anymore. There's a lot of different things can cause that problem ranging from the transistors that feed back voltage to the shut down circuit leaking or a bad cap or the bias circuit isn't stable. One thing you will want to check.. with no signal on the inputs, set your meter to read DC volts connect your meter leads to either the right or left channel an turn the amp on, watch the reading if there's a lot of voltage just rite when it shuts down then try doing the same connection to the other channels output if its only one of the channels with voltage just rite when it shuts down that will be the channel that's causing the problem.


----------



## jrs1006

J31Rob said:


> I've got the following for sale:
> 
> *Lanzar Optidrive Plus 200:* http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...plus-200-old-school-us-built.html#post1867591
> 
> *Lanzar Optidrive Plus 150:* http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...lanzar-opti-plus-150-old-school-us-built.html
> 
> Also have a 160 that is currently installed in my car. 10/10 condition all around. No flaws. Will take offers on that and get pictures if you'd like me to.


How much for each on of them ?


----------



## Buickmike

Ampman said:


> I will post a pic later of the output drivers I'm having problems uploading pics at the moment which is becoming the norm with my tap talk app anymore. There's a lot of different things can cause that problem ranging from the transistors that feed back voltage to the shut down circuit leaking or a bad cap or the bias circuit isn't stable. One thing you will want to check.. with no signal on the inputs, set your meter to read DC volts connect your meter leads to either the right or left channel an turn the amp on, watch the reading if there's a lot of voltage just rite when it shuts down then try doing the same connection to the other channels output if its only one of the channels with voltage just rite when it shuts down that will be the channel that's causing the problem.


So after testing this several times my volt meter did catch 1.5v DC on the left channel once every few tries. I never saw it on the right channel. What should I check now?


----------



## Ampman

Buickmike said:


> So after testing this several times my volt meter did catch 1.5v DC on the left channel once every few tries. I never saw it on the right channel. What should I check now?


If you haven't checked these transistors TIP-35C TIP-36C these are the output drivers. They are located across from each other cause if you'll notice the 35C's will be on one side of the amp and the 36C's on the other side. Find those transistors for the left ch, if your meter has a transistor test function see if there's one with much lower gains than that of the others that transistor could be the culprit, if your meter don't have that function set it to diode test and check between all the junctions and reversing the test leads across each if all are reading close to each other then try checking the stages before the output look also for bad solder joints and check the emitter resistors those can cause a load of issues as well. Here's a pic of the transistors I've described


----------



## Ampman

Ampman said:


> If you haven't checked these transistors TIP-35C TIP-36C these are the output drivers. They are located across from each other cause if you'll notice the 35C's will be on one side of the amp and the 36C's on the other side. Find those transistors for the left ch, if your meter has a transistor test function see if there's one with much lower gains than that of the others that transistor could be the culprit, if your meter don't have that function set it to diode test and check between all the junctions and reversing the test leads across each if all are reading close to each other then try checking the stages before the output look also for bad solder joints and check the emitter resistors those can cause a load of issues as well. Here's a pic of the transistors I've described


Something else forgot to mention while looking for bad solder joints check to see if there are joints that appear they've got hot and also resistors that are starting to turn black, if there's a electrolytic capacitor in the circuit with the resistor getting hot check those caps and transistors or diodes associated with it there could be one or more of those devises mentioned leaking


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry to break up the repair fest. I am taking notes. Its been to long since I have cracked open an amp and got real grimy with it. Just basic repairs caps ext. Not in depth troubleshooting. 

Update on the temp system I had all of this sitting and what a shame. Just drove with this system for 10+ hrs.. Throughly impressed. 
Was prepping the car for a major build and couldn't stand having nothing for the drive. So I stuck this in. Literally total three min.gain adjustment by ear and it sounds great.
The DC 10 sounds awesome! Goes lower than any old school sub I remember and so tight and punchy! Shocked and amazed. Was not expecting that one. I haven't time aligned, eqd, or really set the gains but there is not much work left to be done. The in car response of that DC is sick. Know real major humps to deal with by ear. Pretty smooth for drop in and go. 
We'll see what three rta has to say. The impact and energy very impressive especially for one 10. The blending with the mids and the upper midbass snap very good. The timing is very good, detailed, and quick. The sub doesn't disappear in the trunk. 

The only bad news is this temp system sounds so good that I will get lazy on the final build and spend way more than I should for two reasons:

1. I now have more time (less urgency to get decent sound) to save up and get exactly what I want.

2. I'm going to have to get some really nice new equipment, hours of tunning and install to improve the sound from here.

Just an update.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

FYI I just modeled a sealed enclosure for the DC64 pretty nuts if you can fit it. 

















Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Well duh, it's a Lanzar system! 

How 'bout you be a sweet heart and run the MWS6.5 through your little app there, I haven't had time to run it through anything myself.


----------



## SilkySlim

I'm in a meeting for the first half of the day. Just let me know the the specs. Looks like most of there Midbass and door speakers are meant for free air with their response curves but just look at the response curves when you give them the space. 
I can a test that with the crossover at 24db per octave I could not tell much drop in low end until 34hz. That is strong now I have bumped it up to 45-55 so for more reliability on bad heavy songs. They can get a little overwhelmed down there with high volume. But the blending with the sub awesome. I still have that lower setting on recall for clean SQ.
Any way I'll be happy too run it just post the ts. 




Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

From 1995:
MWS6.5
FS: 54.29
Qts: 0.39
RMS: 100 watts
Vas: 0.48

I'll try to run it through some misc. box apps when I get some time. This is all I can find through any of my propaganda.


----------



## Buickmike

This makes me miss my old subs. (12" Pro Plus) I think I had them in 1.0 or 1.25 cu ft sealed enclosures. They were loud as hell, but not clean though. The was most likely my fault. I was 18 then. I probably had 50hz cranked all the way on my 5 band Kenwood EQ, The bass most of the way up on my Alpine 7903, and the sub wave boost set to +18 on my Opti Drive 100. I'd love to hear a set properly tuned.

In other news, I checked resistance on the output drivers using the diode test function on my volt meter. I found a bad solder joint on one (my fault), but that was not the problem. I did fine one on the other side with lower resistance than the others across one junction. I haven't traced which side goes to which channel yet. I guess I will do that next and if the driver in question is on that side I will check it out. A couple years ago I pulled all the output drivers and tested them all. They all seemed good, but I don't remember if I was just testing for contiuity or comparing resistance. Before I pull the driver I will check the downstream resistors. Thanks for the advice BTW.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> From 1995:
> MWS6.5
> FS: 54.29
> Qts: 0.39
> RMS: 100 watts
> Vas: 0.48
> 
> I'll try to run it through some misc. box apps when I get some time. This is all I can find through any of my propaganda.


Is the vas in liters or cuin?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I'm going to say cu. ft. It doesn't say but all the subs on the same page in this pamphlet are all listed as cu. ft.

For fun might try litres, cu. in., and cu. ft. to see what comes out the most realistic.


----------



## minbari

has to be cuft.

.48 L would be .017cuft. the driver would take up more space than that, lol.


----------



## rreed

Hmm... Yeah go ahead and mark leeters off the list then.


----------



## SilkySlim

Here ya go. 















Hope this helps!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Greatly appreciated, thanks.


----------



## rreed

So dumb question, and I haven't been into box building in probably 20 years, but what does "Box Qtc .707" mean?

Hmm, 370.5 cu. in. allegedly translates to 0.21441 cu. ft. These cheap-o R/T boxes I think are roughly that, minus the large amount of space the speaker itself takes up. I still say they need a bigger box.

But that's cool, appreciate it! And looks like you have some downloads ready.


----------



## minbari

rreed said:


> So dumb question, and I haven't been into box building in probably 20 years, but what does "Box Qtc .707" mean?
> 
> Hmm, 370.5 cu. in. allegedly translates to 0.21441 cu. ft. These cheap-o R/T boxes I think are roughly that, minus the large amount of space the speaker itself takes up. I still say they need a bigger box.
> 
> But that's cool, appreciate it! And looks like you have some downloads ready.


do you understand what the different "Q" numbers mean in a speaker? Qtc is the box "Q" for the speaker once it is loaded into a box. depending on the box size, the Q will shift up or down. 0.707 is considered ideal, less than .707 will make bass tighter and thinner sounding, more than .707 will start to make a big, boomier sound.


----------



## rreed

Buhhhhh, I vaguely recall Qms was mechanical, Qes was electrical(?), and Qts was total? I remember using at least 1-2 of them in calculating t/s parameters. I may be missing one, too. I don't recall a Qtc but again, it's been a good 20 years or so for me. I bet Vance Dickason is into the hundreds in his latest Cook Book! Haha


----------



## minbari

rreed said:


> Buhhhhh, I vaguely recall Qms was mechanical, Qes was electrical(?), and Qts was total? I remember using at least 1-2 of them in calculating t/s parameters. I may be missing one, too. I don't recall a Qtc but again, it's been a good 20 years or so for me. I bet Vance Dickason is into the hundreds in his latest Cook Book! Haha


lol, well just know that .707 is ideal and everything else is a compromise in one direction or another. 0.650 - .9 ussualy sound pretty decent.

get above 1 and you are going to be very boomy, under .6 and you will lack bass.


----------



## SilkySlim

yes mini you are correct. good basic description. i would go with the .707 should give you better integration with your sub. Notice the nice flat response curve. Plus nice punchy upper bass & midbass should sound very nice. If the specs are right.
The enclosure tolerances on these drivers are tight. You could go a little bigger and drop the fb3 down a little lower (run the risk of sloppy less control) or go smaller but you'll get an upper bass bump. It's really hard to cheat. Effectively what you do (in my mind for calibration) is raise the effective fb3 point quite a bit because i like to measure from fb3 the top of the bump down 3db not -3db from zero. Now you have a 6db drop. Not creating a 3-5db (typically) big bump right before it just starts rolling off. I think of it this way. Unless my hump matches eactly what I need the speaker to do its fine but the bump isn't usually that large, and or the in car response doesn't need an extra bump there. very rare. 

I would build it and manipulate it with polyfil. Then you could play around with the response with out building so many boxes. Remember about 1lb per cuft of poly= 1/3 larger enclosure (approximate)
good luck let me know how it sounds.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

Hmm, so that's minus driver I presume. I'll need to do some guesstimation to see about how much space this fat little bugger takes up.

Otherwise, I have no idea what you just said but it sure sounds good - no pun intended! I usually just try to use half decent patch cables, run my HU into a x-over or two, then into the amps, then speakers! I guess I need to catch up on how to dial in gains as well.

To that end, I still haven't had a chance to get to putting any of my amps in yet. I'm dying to hear a full Lanzar system again! I was about to snag an ugly 2150 off the 'bay for cheap the other day but right when I hit buy now someone else had already snagged it!


----------



## SilkySlim

sorry about that. yea with out driver displacement.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## lsc86

smgreen20 said:


> As I stated, here they are.
> 
> DC84


Local shop I've used since the 1980s has at least 1 12" Lanzar with the USA logo/cone still on display, might have others still too- never really paid much attention to the Lanzar stuff, always considered it low end stuff compared to the well known stuff.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well I've never really been a fan of the EQs but I happened to see this item and decided it would make a nice addition to my collection since it matches my cosmetic scheme.  I may not even use it in an install since I sold one of the newer black and gold ones. You guys that have run these before tell me your opinions on these. :thumbsup: Original Lanzar Optidrive E30 1 3 Octave 30 Band EQ Used in Original Carton | eBay


----------



## smgreen20

I have one of those black and gold ones if you, PLEASE!! !, want to trade me!!!


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well Mr. Green I had at least one of those black and gold ones back in the past. I was tinkering with the idea of a black and gold version Lanzar audio system and in the end elected to do the blue and white ones and sold off I believe one or two 2500s, at least one 2200 and my personally used and purchased new from Lanzar 4150. Since that E30 had no bretheren I sold it as well. I'd kinda felt I'd buy the older blue and white one if one came up as they are overall impressive to at least look at. I don't think it'll work in my 5.1 surround sound install as I think these are just two channel input EQs with 4 channel outputs. Its been so many years ago that I had one and this one didn't really show pics of it outside of its plastic packaging bag that I couldn't tell. I may install it in my system as a dummy piece just to make it look like its a part of the system but we'll see in the end. :thumbsup:

So to answer your inquiry its not ready for sale/trade at this time especially since I don't even have it in my possession yet.


----------



## SilkySlim

so i just got a little sick when i read that. I wish you had got on this thread/forum sooner. I need 1-2 more 2500's and a clean 4150 for my system! plus I have extra blue plus and tms series.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

I'm getting ready to run 2 15's ID Max when they start shipping early June off of a 50C in a .5ohm load mono. we'll see what it does!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

SilkySlim said:


> so i just got a little sick when i read that. I wish you had got on this thread/forum sooner. I need 1-2 more 2500's and a clean 4150 for my system! plus I have extra blue plus and tms series.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


No need to feel :sick2: my friend. I sold those amp probably close to *TEN* years ago. :vanish: Who knows you may have one of them I decided to pass on along.  I'd *almost* be tempted to sell *ALL* my Lanzar amps though to get this little item. :surprised: 

McIntosh MC4000M | eBay


----------



## SilkySlim

That's cool. That sounds good. That's a nice Mc. but I have spent six months a/b ing old school and new amps on Reference level speakers full range and there is no better sounding amp all the way around than these Optis. you get all the detail without the harshness, aggressiveness, and over brightness. You get strong full low end not over exaggerated, bloomy, or boomy. The midrange warmth is strong. One of the most neutral and natural sounding amps I've heard. Not to say the Mac bad or is harsh but I would run these against anything out there anyday of the week and twice on Sunday (I have more time that day) (the mac to me is edgy and has exaggerated brightness some confuse as detail) I have more but another thread and time. It is not a bad amp but I would not be to upset or lose any sleep. That testing opened my eyes.

One of my buddies is good friends with Nelson Pass and is the lead design engineer for a mid sized high end home AV manufacturer and Nelson showed him some mods for some of the old school Adcom amps he designed as well as the original class A Soundstream he designed. I will be modding up one to try against them but i'm not convinced yet.
I will also be modding some Lanzar in the future with his guidance. I will let you all know the results.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well it showed up yesterday and so I had to pull it out of the box and take pics. I'm not sure where they had this mounted but it had some unpleasant sticky and nasty looking substance on it. I cleaned it up some but its going to need some more work to make me happy.  It is pretty clean otherwise and would likely be a *NICE* component to use with say my BNIB Opti 50C! :thumbsup:


----------



## minbari

thats alot of pot!


----------



## SilkySlim

Man that just jogged the old memory. One best sounding systems (SQ wise) I installed for a client (back the day) was a 50c with this eq and three way fronts and two four ohm 12's mixed mono close a .75 ohm load stereo total. It sounded awesome.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Okay just a few archived pics in my phone. I'll have to get out the gear and do a *"proper"* photo shoot one day I suppose.


----------



## smgreen20

That's the style 50c I want. I'd also like the have another 500. Nice pieces there.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Yes they are. :thumbsup: I in fact found my receipt when I put away the one for the E30 I just bought. I got that 50C in August of 2011. Didn't realize it had been over a year. :surprised: I've stored them next to each other. I'm running out of space to put any more of these things. Looks like they *ALL* need to be installed into my cars!  I'm looking for another cosmetically mint 500 for my Legend build. *OR* if I knew where I could send my two not so mint ones to get re-powder coated and screen printed to look like new.  One of them seems to be fine internally while the other one shows a repair was done to it.


----------



## smgreen20

I might know 2 different people that might be able to do it. I'll have to get in touch with them. One is a friend, the other is a Phorum member phriend at the PG site.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Okay well I'll keep on the alert as I do have something like eleven of these amps and more than half of them could use some cosmetic TLC.  That's my single biggest disappointment with these amps is that the corners and mounting holes have a tendency to get or be all buggered up when you get them. Having had *two* new ones installed for several years (one that went through my roll over car crash) and they never showed any wear on them makes me wonder what some people do with their merchandise. :huh2:


----------



## SilkySlim

roll over in a legend? Are you ok? I found neoprene washers work great! The amps are such tanks when taken care of. I have heard that the powder coating (or maybe the company they hired had a flawed process) that they used on the blue/gray series was more susceptible to humidity. All it seems to take for those is a small scratch and the humidity bubbles the rest. 
Now that being said the later black and gold series have a much stronger and durable coating that seems to hold up better. 

I have two of the blue greys that are polished and they look really good. Though I am planning on restoring and slight mod after talking with my design engineer buddy. I will be taking them down to brushed aluminum and having the model, logo and art laser etched back on. I am then debating on shooting them with clear for protection or just going raw. It looks so sick! 

I know that using pre-drilled holes with threaded inserts on your amp rack helps keep things nice and clean too.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

I reviewed the circuit boards with my friend and we found some "easy upgrades to help improve SQ" these improvements won't help the circuit board look cleaner but should improve sound. Many amp companies use surface mount components and ] plan on upgrading just a couple key area components. When I get time to tackle this I will let you know the results. May be a while.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Yeah I considered stripping the chassis down and doing a polished look and laser etching the logo and so forth into them as well.  I'll be using neoprene or possibly nylon washers over & under the mounting holes as well to keep that area from getting too chewed up with the screws. 

As for the accident that was *YEARS* ago (1997) and was in a 1992 Nissan Maxima. :surprised: We were all quite fortunate as I had a packed car (five of us) and the worse injury was four stitches to one passenger's head. The Maxima wasn't so fortunate. :thumbsdown:


----------



## SilkySlim

You were lucky! Glad to hear everyone is ok. I think that from what I have seen of these Lanzar's and what people have done to them they just are well designed tanks that sound incredible! Reliability wise they are like the cockroaches of the insect world you just can't kill them. 
Key reasons why Lanzars are an awesome OS amp.

1. They just sound so smooth and clean. I can listen to them comfortably for hours on end even at loud volumes.
2. Clean easy design to maintain and repair. Readily available parts. Very few if any hard to find proprietary parts. Easy to disassemble and reassemble.
3. Other than the multi-channels (very accurate power ratings. Not overblown but not underrated. They just are who they say they are but oh my what current capacity and beefy PS. You start really putting these thing under load and they really come alive. Did I mention how good they sound. 
4. High signal to noise, low distortion, etc. 
5. They don't fall apart under an actual reactive load. Can drive difficult speaker loads. I haven't seen any it couldn't handle. 
6. So smooth under-pressure. I keep comparing and looking for instruments, sounds, details, etc. in music that I am missing because it is smooth, laid back, comfortable, I can go on with typical audiophile geek adjectives but I have put these up against very high end amps both home and car. What I found was a hidden gem! I just can't hear any loss of info. It is just there in it's natural state not exaggerated and not missing or muted I will say the modded one have a edge on transparency but that is it. They just keep their composure when pushed hard.
7. There bigger amps have plenty of grunt to handle subs. 
8. They seem to be over designed in most major components for the power ratings of their amps.
9. Built in wire management and amp rack designed heat sink. Easy to make a clean install. Some times a PIA to make all of the connections.
10. They work!
Out of all the OS amps I have tried they are the least finicky and I have purchased the most Lanzar blind & untested more than all other brands combined and have had one bad one. Even one that was a previous messy repair just worked.


----------



## SilkySlim

Also update on temp lanzar system. 
Just bridged each set of 5 1/4" components on a 2200 per side and put a 500 on the 10 DC sub. It sounds very good. The fronts came alive and the stage seem higher. The sub handles the lower end is deeper and has much energy and impact. Why didn't the make a 300, and a 400? I think I know why but it would have been perfect. That 10 is so tight and punchy it sounds great. Defiantly one of the best subs all around during this era.


----------



## Ampman

Zed made some very reliable products. 
I like the fact they used large output drivers even in the smaller OS amps such as the Pluto Cupid ect. I'm using 2 Pluto's for front and rear components and sound amazing I do however got a Lanzar opti 50 that's a very strong amp just not sure what ill use it for at the moment because of its size I can't do much with it in my truck for sake of space but I do agree the opti's are great amps that hold their own.


----------



## SilkySlim

These OS blue/gray and black/gold amps are not Zed amps. I still prefer these in most cases to any Zed design and built amp. 

Agreed I am a big zed fan as well. Many Zeds are close in my top ten amps to own. He packs alot of power in smaller chassis. From what I've seen most of his designs are underrated and very clean. His most bullet proof design is the USAcoustics usa series. but that discussion is for a different thread. Most are not to difficult to repair or maintain but nothing i have seen is as easy access and simple to brake down as the Lanzar Opti tanks OS. The later Zed ESX designs make my heart palpitate he has so much going on in such tight spaces that said it is a very powerful clean amp. No doubt a very good sounding and pretty reliable amp but man you better have a good repair guy and or if Steve retires were in trouble because there is just so much going on inside. In contrast the Optis are a much more simplistic clean design. They both use good caps and components in these and Zed's higher end designs. Although his best sounding amps are just seem to be little more sensitive/finicky and not as warm as the Lanzar Opti's. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rreed

I need to do some more fresh comparisons of my black/gold 2050's to my gray/white 160, and I realize that's at least a bit apples to oranges (really wish I had a 4100/4150 or at least one Opti 50), but having said that why would you guys pick the old gray over the newer black?

And why are we big fans of Clarion?

And for all the mentioning about time phasing and all that stuff about alignment, etc. Is that done via fancy sound processor or how?

Sorry for all the "why-why-why" but as mentioned I've been out of the scene since around the late 90s and I either knew very little (most likely) or a lot has changed. I always just hooked up wires, cranked the HU volume, turned up the gains until it distorted then backed off a little, and called it done! /lame


----------



## SilkySlim

I may have a blue 50 interested?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## minbari

SilkySlim said:


> Agreed I am a big zed fan as well close in my top ten amps. He packs alot of power in smaller chassis. From what I've seen most of his designs are underrated and very clean. His most bullet proof design is the USAcoustics usa series. but that discussion is for a different thread. Most are not to difficult to repair or maintain but nothing i have seen is as easy access and simple to brake down as the Lanzar Opti tanks OS. The later Zed ESX designs make my heart palpitate he has so much going on in such tight spaces that said a very powerful clean amp. No doubt a very good sounding and pretty reliable amp but man of the good repair guy and or Steve retires were in trouble plus there is just so much going on. He did use good caps and components in his higher end designs. Although his best sounding amps are just a little more sensitive than the Lanzar's.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2



dont forget pretty efficient. I had a full hifonics series VIII setup in the early 90s and even flat out for hours, the amps never got very warm.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well personally I like the cosmetics of the older blue and white ones better than the black and gold. In addition when buying amps back in the day I came across *many* damaged black and gold amps (in particular 2500s) which meant either people were trying to push them harder than they were recommended or had no idea how to connect them properly. It was too many of them that I came across to ignore for my own sake. The final straw was buying one that I then resold as I was phasing out the black and gold ones and didn't have the means to test it. The buyer advised the rca outputs were gone and so he had to repair it. In the end being the nice guy I am I paid him for the repairs since I hadn't tested its operation and so that one basically was a free amp to the new owner. I've *NEVER* had an issue with the blue and white powder coated ones or my original anodized blue chassis blue with white lettering. I have *one* 500 that shows it had a repair done to it which appears relatively minor as the board wasn't damaged and looks to have blown parts off the board. I *immediately* took it for testing upon inspection after purchasing and was told it absolutely was in good working order. :thumbsup: I'll be happy when these amps all get installed!


----------



## smgreen20

Zed is not responsible for these LANZAR amps, he came later.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> I need to do some more fresh comparisons of my black/gold 2050's to my gray/white 160, and I realize that's at least a bit apples to oranges (really wish I had a 4100/4150 or at least one Opti 50), but having said that why would you guys pick the old gray over the newer black?
> 
> And why are we big fans of Clarion?
> 
> And for all the mentioning about time phasing and all that stuff about alignment, etc. Is that done via fancy sound processor or how?
> 
> Sorry for all the "why-why-why" but as mentioned I've been out of the scene since around the late 90s and I either knew very little (most likely) or a lot has changed. I always just hooked up wires, cranked the HU volume, turned up the gains until it distorted then backed off a little, and called it done! /lame


Clarion CZ702
A eq, x3, TA, Bluetooth, cd player, media player, 24 bit D to A high volt pre-outs. For $200 What not to like. Sounds and works well.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Zed is not responsible for these LANZAR amps, he came later.


Sorry folks didn't mean to imply in any way that these early Opti's (my favorite by far) we're Zed designed or made. I was comparing them to Zed designs. Not calling them Zed made. 

For clarity these blue/gray and black/gold square finned amps with the hidden wire ends were NOT Zed made!

Now to answer the efficency response. They were more efficent amps. With efficentcy comes a price. You have one side of the rail amplifying the positive side of signal, the other amplifying the negitive. They switch or pass the signal on back and forth but there is an overlap the closer you get to 0 on the signal the more efficient it is and less power is spent as heat. Class A amps pass off the other half as heat. I haven't got into the timing or scoped these Opti amps yet but I would bet they have a larger overlap for that they will run warmer. But that is the smoothness, detail, and natural sound is what you hear.

To my knowledge zed was only responsible for one series of lanzar opti amps after these blue/gray and black and gold series. Then they went to Korea and then sold off.


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> Well personally I like the cosmetics of the older blue and white ones better than the black and gold. In addition when buying amps back in the day I came across *many* damaged black and gold amps (in particular 2500s) which meant either people were trying to push them harder than they were recommended or had no idea how to connect them properly. It was too many of them that I came across to ignore for my own sake. The final straw was buying one that I then resold as I was phasing out the black and gold ones and didn't have the means to test it. The buyer advised the rca outputs were gone and so he had to repair it. In the end being the nice guy I am I paid him for the repairs since I hadn't tested its operation and so that one basically was a free amp to the new owner. I've *NEVER* had an issue with the blue and white powder coated ones or my original anodized blue chassis blue with white lettering. I have *one* 500 that shows it had a repair done to it which appears relatively minor as the board wasn't damaged and looks to have blown parts off the board. I *immediately* took it for testing upon inspection after purchasing and was told it absolutely was in good working order. :thumbsup: I'll be happy when these amps all get installed!


I would bet that people all thought they were like the legend of 50C. I remember a time when many people thought that all Orion's could perform like the Hcca series and puff the magic dragon was being let out all over the place. Argh very sad. These are about as tough as they come and handle some serious abuse. I do know that heat was an issue if not ventilated. Very minor changes between the two series amps other than cosmetics, and parts supplier maybe. The blues are little bit warmer sounding and the B/G are a little bit clearer very slight. I can't wait to see you get your amps installed ether!


----------



## SilkySlim

I think it will be time next week to get everyone out for a family photo. LOL


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well see I'm from the "old school" that the signal you *send* into the amp is the signal that is amplified for you to hear. So in other words dirty or poor signal out from your source will equal poor/dirty signal to be played loudly. So I've got a nice 5 volt ultra efficient and clean signal out double din head unit that just so happens to play most formats as well as dvd audio along with the typical dvd video. Since its a true 5.1 sound producing system I'm matching all the speakers to handle the various sound stages and handle the power output of each of these amps so you can crank the volume and they'll just be tickled to death. In the end the goal is to sound like you're at a live production or in the middle of an IMAX movie (as in you are *in* the movie, not just in a movie theater). :thumbsup:


----------



## smgreen20

What HU do you have if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> Sorry folks didn't mean to imply in any way that these early Opti's (my favorite by far) we're Zed designed or made. I was comparing them to Zed designs. Not calling them Zed made.
> 
> For clarity these blue/gray and black/gold square finned amps with the hidden wire ends were NOT Zed made!
> 
> Now to answer the efficency response. They were more efficent amps. With efficentcy comes a price. You have one side of the rail amplifying the positive side of signal, the other amplifying the negitive. They switch or pass the signal on back and forth but there is an overlap the closer you get to 0 on the signal the more efficient it is and less power is spent as heat. Class A amps pass off the other half as heat. I haven't got into the timing or scoped these Opti amps yet but I would bet they have a larger overlap for that they will run warmer. But that is the smoothness, detail, and natural sound is what you here.
> 
> To my knowledge zed was only responsible for one series of lanzar opti amps after these blue/gray and black and gold series. Then they went to Korea and then sold off.


I thought the opti's were made by Zed I had no clue my bad


----------



## smgreen20

Somewhere around 2000 when LANZAR came out with the silver Optis is when ZED came in. I'm not sure on exact dates though.


----------



## SilkySlim

They did use the same HC tip 35 & tip 36 on the output transistors throughout the line from the 50 to the 500 & 50c! 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Does anyone have the length of the 200 & 500 handy?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

Iirc, 
200 = 14" 
500 = 18 1/2" 

My daughter is in our shower so i can't get to the brochure or the 200 and my tape measure is in the so i can't go out to the truck and measure the 500.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thank's that cool thanks again so much. That's really all I need except.
Does anyone have the manual for the 2500, 6200, series? I found one but it wasn't English.
In case anyone needs it here are the lengths for the Black & Gold amps. Converted from cm in the manual it was about all I understood. I'll double check the conversions tonight and edit. I'm surprised no one had posted this yet you can't find it anywhere.
2500 = 19"
2200 = 14"
2150 = 13"
2100 =
2050 = 10"
4100 = 13"
4150 = 14"
6200 = 22"
50C = 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

The 2100/100 = 12 
The 50c = 24 
If the 50c isn't 24, then it's 22.
If I can remember, after work I'll look them up.


----------



## rreed

I have 'Merican manuals for pretty much everything, I'll try to have a look and confirm dimensions today. Yes I know I owe some scanned PDF's of them, I'm working on it. Somebody send me a 2050 or Opti 50 and I might force the time.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

So you guys missed these pics from my post just one page back huh?? :surprised: The 50C is 24" and the 500/2500 is 19" I believe the 200/2200 is 14" as is the 160/4150. I could measure each one of them when I get back to the house if you'd like because I own just about every one of them.  :thumbsup:



smgreen20 said:


> What HU do you have if you don't mind me asking?


I have an older model JVC that was a best kept secret. Look up the specs on the KW-AVX800. Interestingly enough the AVX line specs were nearly identical to the AVN line from Eclipse. I highly suspect they had a hand in upgrading those units for them.


----------



## rreed

According to 1995 propaganda brochure:

500 - 9 x 2 3/8 x 19 1/4
50C - 9 x 2 3/8 x 24

So there!


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

rreed said:


> According to 1995 propaganda brochure:
> 
> 500 - 9 x 2 3/8 x 19 1/4
> 50C - 9 x 2 3/8 x 24
> 
> So there!


Well the propaganda brochure also says a 500 can put out 2020W RMs at IHF202 standard 14.4 volts at 4 ohms. *Anybody* gotten 2000 watts out of their 500? *Anybody?*  Oh and by the way it states the 500 is 18" long and if I can figure out how to post an Adobe PDF I'll do it as I've got the specs scanned in here on the work laptop from either the 1992 or 1993 book. :thumbsup:


----------



## rreed

Yeah I was laughing about that too, 2020 watts??? Seriously??? C'mon guys let's be realistic here. I also wondered if there was a difference in dimensions b/t the 95/96 chassis. I bet it could all be settled by some amps and tape measures (like in yours I'm seeing 24 1/8 lolz). I'll measure my old 160 when I remember/get time.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Its the angle of the picture. There wasn't an 8th on the end.  Now at 2 ohms you *may* get closer to the 2000 watts but I hear you'll burn the older ones up unless you *really*, *really*, *really* work hard to keep them cool. I don't know if the fan shroud does enough for them. Those things also pretty much cover up the amp which means no showing it off. :mean: I've got the old amp rack fan treatment planned for my build. :thumbsup:


----------



## smgreen20

This is straight from the '93 LANZAR brochure.


----------



## SilkySlim

If i remember right the he'd lit or a manual that had 2000 Max power on the 2500. I was told that if you had the electrical and the cooling it would handle that in a 2 ohm mono but a tough life. You would be driving it like the old punches and when something let's go it's usually catastrophic. 
Funny thing today trying the forth temp system in my car and I wired the 500 2 ohm mono and I have a confirmed 275 amp alt. I gained it back to about 700-800 Watts it was killing my lights bad. I have rewired it to 8 ohm. It does have considerable better SQ @ 8 ohm. Not to mention it was way to much for my sub.
Funny story I call one of the driver designers for support and he ask what amp and config. i was running it in and he said "oh sxxx that is way too much power" so I called off the dogs. Just had to try it's been 20 years since I heard one do it. The pains of being a broke college student putting everything in for everyone else.
I can tell you the temp config I have now sounds incredible! A couple of tweeks and I haven't heard much better SQ wise.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> Its the angle of the picture. There wasn't an 8th on the end.  Now at 2 ohms you *may* get closer to the 2000 watts but I hear you'll burn the older ones up unless you *really*, *really*, *really* work hard to keep them cool. I don't know if the fan shroud does enough for them. Those things also pretty much cover up the amp which means no showing it off. :mean: I've got the old amp rack fan treatment planned for my build. :thumbsup:


I have used 4 fans in a custom shroud it did ok. It was a beast. The main thing is your electrical system being able to keep up and speakers that can handle it. 220+ amp draw! It's safest and in it's wheel [email protected] 8&4 ohm mono though. Sounds the best and more headroom capabilities.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

The 2020 watts on the 2500/500 are its dynamic power or what it will produce cleanly in a transient peak. Dynamic and RMS are 2 totally different things that for some reason people seem to think mean the same thing.


----------



## SilkySlim

Absolutely but they built the PS so strong that it could handle that transient (or headroom) in a 4ohm load. But overdriven into a 2 ohm load mono the PS could handle it. If you do the math @ 220 amps you are in the 2k neighborhood club.
Now I didn't claim 2k in 4 ohm but transient does make sense because of the headroom of the PS. I just remember seeing 2k in there lit. It seems though that everyone only list dynamic power these days with new amps. 
With that being said in a 2 ohm mono load you are at the very edge of that amps capabilities. You have nothing but distortion and clipping for headroom but if you were doing SPL burps you would be giving all it's got. Not my thing but of you were so inclined. 
If you look at the German website that had power ratings of many OS amps this would fall right in line.
They have many different A/B amps testing out at 1100-1200 Watts and pulling about 110-135 amps of current at given output even if you go off of their test numbers you would be right about 2k. 
Anyway I doubt you are going to find anything in print. I remembered the Lanzar rep telling us about the 2 ohm mono on the 500 TMS. I do also remember him telling us not to try it with the 200's and lower. That's why I ask if anyone had run a 2200 2 ohm mono before. I wish we could get the German site to verify. 
Food for thought!

On the 500-2500 it's kind of like overclocking a computer processor. It can handle it if given the right conditions. You supply enough power, upgrade the cooling and be careful because that's all you are getting out of it. No more it's at the limit. 
To me I would rather run 4 or 8 ohm mono all day and have the power supply headroom for impedance dips and peaks with real world speakers playing music. I'm very pleased with mine in 8 ohm mono.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Thanks Mr. Green. :happy: I see you posted a pic of the 1993 sales brochure (I think I have that somewhere as well) vs the owners manual listing.  I would suppose the confusion with the Dynamic Power Rating verses the RMS rating is that *Lanzar* *put it in the owners manual* albeit with an "*" giving the impression that at 14.4V you could get that kind of output.  Although they do say "DYNAMIC POWER RATINGS" it would have been just as honest and less questioning to simply not have mentioned it at all.  We all know back in the days when we were "young bucks" with little sense we'd abuse our equipment trying to get those "numbers" printed in the manual. :blush: I'll be running my amps (500s) at 6 ohms mono simply due to the configuration of the subs. I have no desire to burn up my equipment.  I believe with my Bosch high output vehicle specific racing alternator, *highly* upgraded main wiring of the car, proper gauge audio system wiring, Optima yellow top battery (with a special accessory addition ), a stiffening cap that is almost as large as the battery amongst some other techniques I should be good.  The goal is to give the system as much consistent and dedicated electrical flow as possible. I believe the audio performance output should be sufficient enough to make me quite happy. :thumbsup:


----------



## rreed

SilkySlim said:


> To me I would rather run 4 or 8 ohm mono all day and have the power supply headroom for impedance dips and peaks with real world speakers playing music. I'm very pleased with mine in 8 ohm mono.


I have a ZR15-8 that I occasionally dream about running w/ a 2200 but 1. the box would take up every bit of room in the back of my wagon and 2. I don't listen to rap so a 15" probably wouldn't sound that great w/ metal and bluegrass.  But we can all dream. On the rare occasion I listen to bass/trance I'm sure it would thunder unmercifully though!


----------



## SilkySlim

I am glad we've all grown up and don't need to push things to or run them at the limit. Lol.
BTW Mr. Acura How many 500's are you running again?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

I'll be running two 500s (one on each sub), two 200s (front stage and midbass drivers) and likely one 100 for my rear fill/surrounds. At least for now that's the plan in the Acura. Not sure if I'll keep the Infiniti or not. It'll be a bit more complicated with its fully integrated Bose mess as it also ties in with the vehicle information system and navigation. The more they "progress" with electronics we actually go further away from easy and simple.


----------



## SilkySlim

You are looking @ a total of 210+250 amps current draw on heavy listening. transients can use more. Normal music around 80-140. Sounds like you have a good start. I have found that with some Hondas you have to trigger the alt to trigger the output. watch a volt meter and see. Let me know i had a 90's model accord we had that problem with.

no kidding on the infinity. Definitely check out audio control integration components they have anything you would need to make it easy. Also if you are looking fire a powerful processor I have heard really good things about the Helix pdsp it has high level inputs as well with nice clean 24 bit Dacs.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

just pm me if I can help.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

For the Infiniti I was looking into the Fosgate 3Sixty.2 but I put the whole audio thing for it on the shelf about two years ago as the Acura build became top priority. Fosgate now has the 3Sixty.3 which I've yet to look into. The whole palm pilot adjustment thing was not appealing and probably about as ancient of tech as possible. Yeah Honda Accords and Acura Integra's had little bitty alternators on them so it doesn't surprise me you had issues with it. The Legend has the largest alternator they use on a car and I believe the factory one is rated at 110 or 130 amps. The Bosch one I have is 200 amp output. Plus the little goody for my Optima yellow top battery and my 15 farad behemoth cap should do an adequate job in regulating the power flow. I'll also have my Dakota Digital gauges to show me system status from my seat (voltage, amperage and amp temps) in addition to the voltage readings on my fuse blocks in the trunk. I decided to do *one last* audio system install (although actually the Infiniti would make two :surprised and then *the Mad Scientist* inside took over and is going berserk... err I mean "eccentric" with the whole idea.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

I'm curious to know how many of you guys are competing for this one? :surprised: I see it's jumped from I believe 5 bids yesterday to 9 now. :stunned:

Old School Amp Lanzar Opti Drive Plus PWM MOSFET 100 | eBay


----------



## SilkySlim

The final additions to the family. Don't know where my dog is going to sleep, but my amps will be comfortable for the night.

















Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> The final additions to the family. Don't know where my dog is going to sleep, but my amps will be comfortable for the night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


Nice!!!!


----------



## rreed

@ SilkySlim

I...so...hate you.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Hmm SilkySlim the 6200 is one of the amps I wish was around back in the old blue and white cosmetic days.  I'd have gotten one of them some time ago if it was.  I think now the only version of the blue and white ones I haven't had is the 100Q as I was *never* a fan of the jumpers. :blush: I'd *still* like to see a picture of the mythical 100C but I'd have a better chance of being beamed into M & M world and ride on Unicorns and Pegasus while tap dancing with the Care Bears and Smurfs! :surprised:

So I'm seeing hater-ade for the few nice amp pics just posted. I'd better keep pics of my stockpile to myself it appears.


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> For the Infiniti I was looking into the Fosgate 3Sixty.2 but I put the whole audio thing for it on the shelf about two years ago as the Acura build became top priority. Fosgate now has the 3Sixty.3 which I've yet to look into. The whole palm pilot adjustment thing was not appealing and probably about as ancient of tech as possible. Yeah Honda Accords and Acura Integra's had little bitty alternators on them so it doesn't surprise me you had issues with it. The Legend has the largest alternator they use on a car and I believe the factory one is rated at 110 or 130 amps. The Bosch one I have is 200 amp output. Plus the little goody for my Optima yellow top battery and my 15 farad behemoth cap should do an adequate job in regulating the power flow. I'll also have my Dakota Digital gauges to show me system status from my seat (voltage, amperage and amp temps) in addition to the voltage readings on my fuse blocks in the trunk. I decided to do *one last* audio system install (although actually the Infiniti would make two :surprised and then *the Mad Scientist* inside took over and is going berserk... err I mean "eccentric" with the whole idea.


I kept this here on the thread because i figured if you run some of the Lanzars you may need to upgrade the Alt. They can be current hogs. Don't starve them they will run even hotter.
I was also referring to the upgraded alt. I just helped my Buddy it was a 175amp alt upgrade. The problem is in the computer triggering or requesting output or additional output from the Alt. not as simple add it use to be. you know just stick one in. We were getting serious 10 volt dips until he figured it out. He is a master Mech though.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

In regard to the Infiniti I'm not touching on upgrading its electrical system if I can help it. I'll do a *much* more reserved install in that car.  At most it would get a 3 amp install. Front, rear and sub. I'd run appropriate wiring for the audio system and likely a good stiffening cap. It most likely would get my last 500 and likely my 150 and my other 100. I haven't purchased speakers for it and as stated we'll see if the car deserves to be kept long term. The Acura has *earned* its keep, the Infiniti still has *much* more impressing to do to earn that status.


----------



## smgreen20

I so badly want a 6200 it hurts. Nice amp.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry i forgot a final piece. Well I say final piece. Unless a couple more 2500 come my way. Maybe a couple more 6200. 

For the haters  lol I'll be posting the rest of the collection in the next few weeks. That was just the teaser. There will be Blue & Black series in the collection. 

I'll be thinning the heard some. I may even let go of some of the modded amps. (upgrades include famous black caps and upgraded op amps) It looks like I just won't be using them. I'll be modding my others. 
Steve is going through a lnib 160q for me. Thanks guys. :thumbup:










Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

You're gonna get dog fur all in your equipment if you keep that up!


----------



## SilkySlim

nice on LOL!  

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shaun47

These are ALL available....


----------



## SilkySlim

hey Mr Reed there is your 50

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shaun47

shaun47 said:


> These are ALL available....


400 for all 4


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Not a bad price there.  I've got two of each one except the 150. Normally I might be tempted but I'm strongly pressing forward in a crucial stage of my car build. Hopefully somebody here will make a new home for a few of those. :thumbsup:


----------



## shaun47

Did anyone want any of these? I am starting them on Ebay but would prefer to sell here.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well I stumbled across that 200 listing and strangely enough its now sold.  How much do you want for that 150? Had I not been busy helping guys out on discontinued and impossible to find Legend parts I may have stopped you from losing money from Evil-bay fees. :uhoh:


----------



## shaun47

HAHA. PM will be sent


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Just a "heads up" guys on one several of you have been talking about wanting! 

Lanzar Opti 50c Car Amplifier | eBay


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> Hmm SilkySlim the 6200 is one of the amps I wish was around back in the old blue and white cosmetic days.  I'd have gotten one of them some time ago if it was.  I think now the only version of the blue and white ones I haven't had is the 100Q as I was *never* a fan of the jumpers. :blush: I'd *still* like to see a picture of the mythical 100C but I'd have a better chance of being beamed into M & M world and ride on Unicorns and Pegasus while tap dancing with the Care Bears and Smurfs! :surprised:
> 
> So I'm seeing hater-ade for the few nice amp pics just posted. I'd better keep pics of my stockpile to myself it appears.


  If you got an old 50c and a 6200 you could transplant the board and end caps.  Then it would be blue/gray. LOL

I still want to see the acura mans collection. No haterade sipping here!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well it would be a blue/gray confused 6200 in a 50C body. I'd rather they just made a blue/gray 6200.  I have a new acquisition coming so I'd be holding off on pictures of them all anyway. I've lost count on how many of these I now have. Hmm let me do mental inventory... I think I'll have 13 once the latest one arrives. Too bad I couldn't squeeze out the funds for that 150.  Anyway it'll be a lot of work taking documentation of all the ones I do have now. :surprised:


----------



## smgreen20

I have everything in my collection documented. 
Item, production date, serial number and notes if they're needed.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> I have everything in my collection documented.
> Item, production date, serial number and notes if they're needed.


That's awesome you're my hero.  I'm somewhere in between in organization. I have it and a list but I don't have the details of each. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

I had my first three serial numbers as well as the stamp date on the boards. I believe those pics were on my long defunct computer though. I guess if you take the time to do all of that when you get them that's likely easier than pulling out a half dozen to dozen and doing them all at once. I'll likely be deep up to my knees if not higher this weekend in build work on the Acura. I have them all in the same area so they won't be particularly difficult to document.


----------



## SilkySlim

So I've talked to a few guys on this thread if you guys didn't buy them who did? Is anyone else surprised how quick they went? I have seen many sit around for weeks and longer on Ebay. Decent prices but not great?
Funny story though his Dad bought them from the store I worked for during the time I worked there. LOL

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Not surprised at all. I'd have gotten two of them for sure as he offered me a deal on all three. I couldn't think of a reason why I'd need a third 100 as I only think I'll use one of the two I already have. So one of my current ones will be the backup. I got the 200 as a backup should either of the ones I'll be using need a backup. I'm going to kick myself over the 150 I'm sure for quite some time. :surprised:


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok so at least that one went here I thought it was just Ebay. I was hoping they would go here. I'm not bothered I have plenty or too many. They were in great condition and good price. I'm glad they went quick, I may have to move some of mine. 

I would have jumped on the 200 & or the 150 but my anniversary was more important. I also just dropped some coin on my last purchases.

I'm ordering parts tonight for my upgrades. More on that as the project continues.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Alright here is a tray of tasty little nuggets of info. I got it as a surprise in a recent purchase. Thought I would share.










































































































 I hope this helps someone!
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

It does help, thanks.


----------



## SilkySlim

Would have been a perfect weekend for a family photo shoot but I got call in to work!
Started my mods on a 500, 160, 100 & 2 150's. No traffic everyone most be on holiday. Have fun!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Well all I'm going to say ia stay tuned for the "family photo shoot"!


----------



## rreed

Duh, I never thought of just taking pics of all my manuals and propaganda since I haven't made it to the scanner just yet. Good call.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Okay my original idea was to post up the stero system component pics in here one by one. However the 80 or so pictures I just posted in Photobucket might just take me *FOREVER* so I'm thinking giving the link to them might be easier. 

Audio Insanity Photos by clb26_photos | Photobucket


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok a teaser on the blue/gray -white series. Family photos of the ones not installed or not in the middle of modification being prepped for a build.
























Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Hmm Slim you're Armada of Lanzar amps look *very* similar to mine. :thumbsup: I only have one 150 and one 160. I guess I'd have to raise you a 50C a second 100 and a second 50 if this were an all in poker pot.


----------



## rreed

I think I just threw up a little. I'm so not going to flop mine out and lay it on this table, I'm pretty sure mine wouldn't make it past the zipper at this point. Y'all go ahead.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Nah Reed I'm not getting into one of those types of matches.  I'd be bluffing as Slim says these are the ones that aren't currently installed or being modified. He's got me out gunned . . . well for the Lanzar only stuff at least!


----------



## SilkySlim

Golden nugget. Sorry about the flash.
























Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smgreen20

SilkySlim said:


> Golden nugget. Sorry about the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


Now why did you have to go and do that? I'm jealous.


----------



## Assdouche

Having personally seen slim's collection and there is still several lanzars missing. Hasn't posted any black and gold. It's impressive. I've heard every one of them being tested and the ones posted all work perfectly.


----------



## SilkySlim

Here are some that are being modded. They had some battle scars from a good life. Well used. The first of a few getting ready for laser etching and going brushed should be awesome they already look better. Getting totally gone though and a upgraded cap job. I'll keep you posted.

















Some used in my temp system.










That 500 is way more than the IDMax can handle IB. Even in 8 ohm monoI have to be very careful.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using

Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Btw the two modded 150's with polished tops I might let go for the right price. I hate to hang on if someone else can use them they were modded one for sub duty and one for the top end. They have upgraded black caps and audiophile caps for the signal end. Min. of 100-200 per amp in parts alone for the mods. You can't even get the black caps anymore but should last a lifetime. Very very very great sounding amps but I can not think of a car I would use them in. Not unless I become Jay Leno and have my pick of cars.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

You sure about not being able to get the black caps anymore?? :huh2: Well I bet I can find them and know exactly where to start. 

Hmm so seeing that IDMax and I'm thinking a 500 on each of my Eclipse Titaniums at 6 ohm should make for a *serious* party in the trunk! :rockon:


----------



## SilkySlim

The black gate cap issue you can still find them but they stopped production I have heard different stories so I guess it's per model run . Wiki says they stopped production in 2008. I saw one cap listed @125 ea. on one site on a 150 you would use two. I has been a few months but I think that it was the one they used. Plus the others. Anyway maybe I'll just swap the caps out to match my others and sell the caps on evil bay. I just don't see two 150's being enough for my cars so I thought someone in the Lanzar Fam might like them it certainly impressed me enough to upgrade some of mine. Other caps mind you but upgrade none the less.

On the 500 topic the IDMax would love it and do just fine in an 8 ohm load mono if it were in a sealed box. It gets busy and tightens it up quite a bit. In infinite baffle though it is just way to much amp it would be better to run a 2200 but It is very efficient. I'm sure your eclipse subs will get all the clean power they can deal with. 

On another note check you're caps on the board and if they say 85c I would have them changed out. They are more than likely org. I would change them out to a 105c or even higher. If you are using these as daily drivers especially in the HOT SOUTH. They will last you a long time. Panasonic, Rubicon and nichicon are really good. I have seen way to many bad/old caps take out traces/boards and other parts on amps. The traces sometimes can't be repaired. Usually a cap job isn't all that expensive. Labor is always the most expensive part unless maybe you find black gates @ $125ea. There are twelve main caps per 500 these are the ones that can create the most damage.


----------



## Ampman

SilkySlim said:


> The black gate cap issue you can still find them but they stopped production I have heard different stories so I guess it's per model run . Wiki says they stopped production in 2008. I saw one cap listed @125 ea. on one site on a 150 you would use two. I has been a few months but I think that it was the one they used. Plus the others. Anyway maybe I'll just swap the caps out to match my others and sell the caps on evil bay. I just don't see two 150's being enough for my cars so I thought someone in the Lanzar Fam might like them it certainly impressed me enough to upgrade some of mine. Other caps mind you but upgrade none the less.
> 
> On the 500 topic the IDMax would love it and do just fine in an 8 ohm load mono if it were in a sealed box. It gets busy and tightens it up quite a bit. In infinite baffle though it is just way to much amp it would be better to run a 2200 but It is very efficient. I'm sure your eclipse subs will get all the clean power they can deal with.
> 
> On another note check you're caps on the board and if they say 85c I would have them changed out. They are more than likely org. I would change them out to a 105c or even higher. If you are using these as daily drivers especially in the HOT SOUTH. They will last you a long time. Panasonic, Rubicon and nichicon are really good. I have seen way to many bad/old caps take out traces/boards and other parts on amps. The traces sometimes can't be repaired. Usually a cap job isn't all that expensive. Labor is always the most expensive part unless maybe you find black gates @ $125ea. There are twelve main caps per 500 these are the ones that can create the most damage.


Just one of those caps is $125 bucks ? They could keep um lol


----------



## thehatedguy

You can get Black Gates, some places have limited values- places like Percy Audio and Sonicraft. But you will PAY for them.

Nelson Pass likes the Elma Silmic in the signal path and Panasonic FCs in the power supplies of his amps.


----------



## SilkySlim

I have a problem black gate caps that you just don't know how old they really are. Some have had them 10+ years and you are paying a premium! You took the words right out of my mouth though. I was just getting ready to right a reply and mention those. Good call thanks!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

My buddy really likes the FC series as well but I have yet to deal with them. So I can't say. Ask I've heard are good things!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Ampman said:


> Just one of those caps is $125 bucks ? They could keep um lol


Yea just ordered Panasonic FC's last week for mine. Going to give them a go and see what I can fit. They have some dang near direct fit size replacements matching the Nicichons.

I will tell you that the modded amps do sound amazing I really hope that it doesn't have as much to do with the BlackGate's. I know that they are a part of it but the small mods on the vertical boards changing out some of the surface mount stuff I hope is playing a bigger role.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

So just tested some 50C's wow they sound good. I was running them 6-8 ohm mono. The current supply was so strong on the bottom end compared to the "wattage output". 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr. Green, Acura, Mr. Reed, Bueller? All this Opti action going on and no posts? What up fellas? I didn't really get in on the action and nothing here I'm sad if all those beautiful Opti's landed outside? Maybe we'll have some new members show up. This was a bad couple weeks seeing all of that go and missing out on the fun. Not that I complaining I have been blessed with plenty. They we're just so clean and went so cheap.


----------



## smgreen20

I've got a NIB Opti100, and NIB fan shrouds for a 160 and a 50c in layaway that my money is currently going to.


----------



## SilkySlim

I know the feeling brother.


----------



## smgreen20

And on top of that he has a lot More OS stuff NIB from LANZAR of that time frame I'm going to buy. I do have a few small additions that showed up this week. I'll get some pics and post them. They're clarion pieces though.


----------



## Nicks84

I have a NIB 100 and 200 plus. So purty :-D

Though, some of these folks here have quite the collection.


----------



## rreed

I've been out the past 1-2 weeks for family stuff and haven't gotten any email updates that people were posting; I thought it went dead. I have nothing new to report but need to get the ebay app setup on my stupid new phone. Hopefully I've missed out on more screaming deals on brand new old Lanzar amps. :mean:


----------



## SilkySlim

Welcome back.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SilkySlim

All I here is crickets over here. What happened is everyone on holiday?


----------



## rreed

I've been busy trying to gear up for #2 to arrive at the end of November so amps and speakers have taken a back seat for me. I've had to sadly watch a few nice amps sail past on the 'bay while I buy baby furniture and diaper genies.  

Here are some pics of when I was stealth-installing the drivers that run off the HU in the old farm truck. Haha, they just don't sound quite as good as when run by a Lanzar amp!







Haha, prefab boxes. Yay. Oh well, they were cheap, fit behind the seat, and work fine for now.




Speaking of prefab boxes, I was in a pinch for space in one of my wagons when my buddy gave this one to me for free. I had my ZR12 in a 1.77 cu. ft. box w/ a 4" flared port until I needed more space. After shagging it in this mail envelope of a speaker box you could IMMEDIATELY tell it HATES it. Lost all my big thunderous low end, deep throbbing bass, etc. Upper bass range was okay but still. Can't wait to return it to its proper box one day. It now sits on a garage shelf w/ all my amps and processors, all awaiting their day to return to service.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Busy building my Legend. Its close to being completed.


----------



## SilkySlim

I can't wait to see the Acura!!!! 
Mr. Reed congrats been there. If its not cribs and diapers it's summer camp, football and basketball or school supplies etc. I hear ya. There have been a couple of good deals. Things have been going for more expected pricing lately. 

I am officially going to sell two of my prized possessions the two custom upgraded 150's. I'm not going to give them away but I have decided to let them go to someone who more likely to use them as intended. One is tuned more for subs and the other one for highs. These are the best mobile amps I've heard. I will be modding mine to match. I have figured out that I will most likely not have a car with that config so I would rather someone here enjoy them. It looks like an M5 is more in my future than an s2000 (that they would have been perfect for). So first dibs goes to my lanzar peeps if not I'll keep them. I just hate to hoard such jewel.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Thanks for the well wishes Slim :thumbsup: I've noticed an incline in the price for Lanzar goodies online as well. I'm having plenty of fun doing the prep work running my wiring and all for the stereo install. TONS of work trying to finish this car and our deadline has already been overshot (hoped to have it physically able to drive on the 22nd)  Two weeks from now and we'll have missed the "point of no return" and likely miss out on the August 22nd National Meet. :surprised:


----------



## SilkySlim

I hope I can see the debut and meet you in person.


----------



## SilkySlim

I hope to see some photos and post some on the old school installs section we need some Lanzar love over there we have left mr. Green without back up over there. Someday I'll get going on mine. My temp/trial system is really sounding good. So I have lost some motivation plus I'm out of funds to try the suprmeo tweets and morel mids with 9" in the front. So I don't want to finalize til I hear it. What a conundrum.


----------



## Prime mova

This maybe of interest to you guys showing list price of true Lanzar's..., the site was "Last Updated 5-14-98"


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks, but I must've missed the price location. All I could see was the description and a hard to see model number.


----------



## Prime mova

smgreen20 said:


> Thanks, but I must've missed the price location. All I could see was the description and a hard to see model number.


Mike, I thought this maybe an issue the price is in yellow next to the model #s that are also yellow not a good color to see I agree ($1100 Lanzar 50c) . There is a index on the bottom left & those interested can navigate around the website from there.


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr. Mova thanks that was great it's been a while since I have seen actual pricing. I remembered the 50c being around $1500 msrp but I couldn't remember for sure. This was an Internet retail site right? Maybe my memory was about right if so. Thanks again!!!! The info was very helpful and yea I missed the pricing the first page I loaded then saw it on the sub page and went back.


----------



## SilkySlim

So I am really impressed with the DC series speaker designers and Lanzar for making a speaker line up that the motors and specs change with the driver sizes. For example the 15 has a much larger motor 120oz. Magnet and dual spiders where the 12 is 80oz., and the 8"&10" 40oz. At least an attempt to have similar sounding and acturate drivers. What I have dealt with of the DC series they were sleepers of their time.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Okay fellas I'm *SERIOUSLY* thinking about selling one of my "prize" items. I have a BNIB Opti 50C in the earlier blue and white chassis. I may also part with a nice condition Opti E30 also in its original box. I have NO idea what these are worth to you guys. Pics of them are posted in some of my earlier comments. I don't know all the rules nere but on my other forum I'd have to post a price. That having been said I'd let the 50C go for $425 shipped in the lower 48 states and if you wanted the E30 along with it add $100 and it'll be a done deal. I'd like to get closer to $125 shipped on the E30 if sold separately. I hate to do it but an unexpected turn of events has taken place on getting my car completed and so something has to give. I had no idea what I'd run either item in as far as an install goes so that's another reason to let these go. I don't get many PMs here because of my status so feel free to email me directly at [email protected]. I'll try and give first responders priority if I can make out who chimed in first.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Okay so I can't update my post above since I'm not an "upgraded member"!  However I just wanted to state that I'm open to reasonable offers on these items as well. :thumbsup:


----------



## SilkySlim

Well I was on a technology holiday so I didn't see this until today. Very tempting. This sucks I just don't have the extra cash right now. I would love to have it even for giggles. I am waiting on some AR to pay right now.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

I've already sold them. I just have to make time today to get them over to FedEx and send them to their new home.


----------



## SilkySlim

Congrats I hate I missed out. Not like I need them or anything.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Need?? Perhaps no. . . but want??


----------



## SilkySlim

Yea exactly! I don't even have a system planned where I can use it but it is such a great amp to build around I never like to pass one up.


----------



## SilkySlim

So has anyone else noticed the rash of lanzar that has come out of the wood work now that a few pieces have sold for a decent price? I wish I had extra funds I might go after some.


----------



## Ampman

Yep was noticing that too.


----------



## 94LegendaryAcuraGS

The really desired items though seem to remain locked safely away. I didn't want to let go of my BNIB 50C but I'm looking at the bigger picture. Besides I did keep like *TEN* other ones.


----------



## SilkySlim

I gonna have to lighten my load a little bit I need to finalize my build and get processors, speakers, fabric, and such. I have decided to try 2 new IDMAX 15's monsters in IB.


----------



## SilkySlim

Running off of a 500 of course!


----------



## rreed

*lolprefabz*

Haha, w/ no time, a certain amount of laziness, and it was $17, it'll have to get me by for now. I'll build a proper box one fine day. My NIB circa 1992 ZR10. The surround is actually quite orange, just the pics didn't turn out great. I'm hoping the wrinkle goes away, I had the LXR10 (also NIB) sitting on top of it. 

It just doesn't get any sexier than old school gray carpet and either a good looking naked woofer or waffle grills.




























And perhaps something of interest for us all, wish I'd thought of just taking a picture rather than fighting w/ a scanner a long time ago. Note the 1992 bottom-left:


----------



## smgreen20

Nice!


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome Mr. Reed. Love those big xmax numbers. It's funny those older design still sound good and have a unique character. They were getting very small sealed enclosure req. for the time period. Weren't these pre solobaric? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Could someone post pics of the 6200 crossover settings page in English please?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

I have it scanned and loaded on my photobucket page, when I'm on the computer tomorrow I'm post it.


----------



## rreed

I can take pics of mine tomorrow too. I have manuals for pretty much everything I think.


----------



## smgreen20

Sorry for it being sideways. Hope it's easy to read.


----------



## SilkySlim

Thanks guys that will be a big help. Mr. Green that's awesome. Did I miss something or is there a setting to bypass internal x-overs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I am a numb skull sometimes I guess the big section titled six channel full range operation should have been my first clue! Thanks again Mr. Green


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry guys the modded 150 amps are gone. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## emsi_hama

Got this nice X4B crossover in blue


----------



## rreed

As in for sale or as in, you just have it? Right next to your E30. 

And I just picked up a beat-up but hopefully in good working order x4b to add to my collection for a total of three now. One black, two gray/blue.


----------



## smgreen20

I've got a NIB gray/blue x4b in layaway with my Opti100 and 50c/160 fan shroud. I'd like to find someone to trade me E30's. I have the blackish colored one and want the blueish one. Nice pieces for sure.


----------



## emsi_hama

rreed said:


> As in for sale or as in, you just have it? Right next to your E30.
> 
> And I just picked up a beat-up but hopefully in good working order x4b to add to my collection for a total of three now. One black, two gray/blue.


I mean Im keeping it. Sits nicely with the E30 for sure....... but you having 3 of those x4b's?....


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome piece very clean. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

So update my buddy assdouche got those modded amps and one of my 50c's and a set of DCT tweets to match his dc 6 1/2's in his doors. He is running it like this,

50c on 2 morel primo12's
150 on DC 6.5's in doors
150 on tweets on dash
The car sounds awesome very dynamic plenty of out put the tweets and midbass blend and image real well stable smooth and very comfortable to listen to. Even though the 50c is only in a 2 ohm load mono it has plenty of grunt for those 12's. Great match. I will give a better review when we drop in an eql to fix some peaks and get lr tweeter balance worked out better. What a difference! We tried seven different amps on the subs before we decided on the 50c.
We took it to a meet this weekend after installing until 5 in the morning. With a quick 30min tune by ear it held its own install not complete and not finished tuning. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## old school opti

i have an opti 4150 that needs repair.. is there anyone that is can fix for me?


----------



## Pulse_GTO

old school opti said:


> i have an opti 4150 that needs repair.. is there anyone that is can fix for me?


I used to have one that got stolen out of my truck. I bet the crackheads that took it did not even know anything about it.

I also have one that needs repair, it's a 2200. Any recommendations would be appreciated.


----------



## smgreen20

Let's start by stating what's wrong with them?


----------



## SilkySlim

^^^^ what he said first. Let's make sure it has a problem before you send it. Post some gut shots too.
Steve zed audio do decent repair work although not as careful packing on return shipping. Make sure it has a problem before its sent in.

Shawnk I have heard from many he does good work. Although I have never used him. Seems to have a good rep. I may be trying him out on a couple.
Trickyricky I have seen his work and although he hasn't repaired any of mine his work looks real clean. I have talked with him and he seems fair and very knowledgeable. Can't vouch for him yet but will be send him some soon. I just don't have time right now.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Also welcome guys nice to have you here.
Mr. Opti sorry for the delay. On the crossover question.

Also have some big news from an opti lover not on the forum. He spoke with a lanzar tech. and they are relaunching the DC Series as DCT. They have made slight improvements and reintroduced copies of the DC series speaker line in the nineties. He has a system running 4 of the old school DC12's and recently swapped them out to try after he was told about them. He says that they outperform in every way so far and work in the same enclosure. Can't verify this in person yet but he has been in car audio for over the last 25 years. Interesting going back to old designs. I was impressed with the old DC series for sure. Maybe there will be a comeback of the original opti's we love.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## old school opti

Thats great news on the dc line....as for my opti 4150 it started by going straight into protect mode.. and now it doesnt power up at all.


----------



## rreed

For my old 160 I have to cram a folded up piece of paper up under the rca cables to get at least one of the front channels to connect.


----------



## SilkySlim

Do you have a star drive? If you take a snap shot of the guts. We might help see something obvious but it's best to send it to someone qualified to trouble shoot and test. While its in you may request a cap job as well to avoid future issues. The opti's don't have a problem with their's but all caps will fail eventually so if they are in there not usually bad on that amp. Good luck.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Ugh, I've looked in the classifieds and I check the 'bay about every day, but does anyone have a set of (Lanzar, duh) tweeters to get rid of? Nothing showing up on either (and no, the new crap on fleabay doesn't count )

One of my mylar domes (TWS?) I've had for 20+ years just gave out on me yesterday. I haven't thrown an ohmmeter on it but even scraping off the black gunk on the back to clean solder and touching wires to it brings nothing. I'm really sad.


----------



## old school opti

Here is mine. Bout to add an opti x2 and a lil cleanup.


----------



## SilkySlim

Very nice old school that's a nice setup. Love those 2200's. Hope you enjoy your new addition can't wait to see the update. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I really have to be honest here I don't know if the old school dc tweets I got to match the old school DC 6.5's were really old school but I will say we had the Old school DC tweets in a buddy's car and they sounded very good. Had many comments about them. They let go and had a buzz below 3k so he ordered the new DCT copies and they sounded almost identical. I got to listen to them for a couple of hours unreal $16 shipped on prime. I really hate to say it but hard to beat for the money and they sounded very good with the mids.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I'm very sad too I have an old 5 1/4" OZ Superman going down after 20 great years of service. I may give it a proper burial. It just got a buzz. I think I have one more we'll see. But man do these Opti's make them sound so good. I tell you my buddies car sounds great with the DC's up front and the swap out to Opti's. It just is amazing. It should not sound that good for what's there. I can't wait to do my final builds. I will have three in total.
Unfortunately I have get my wife a new car first. Just when I got hers near completion. I need a couple more 50c's cosmetic condition less important. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Any links for the dc's he got? Details pls?


----------



## SilkySlim

http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-DCT-Ne...TF8&qid=1379270539&sr=8-1&keywords=Lanzar+DCT 
Here is a link. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

How was the sound difference/similarity? And yeah hard to beat that price w a stick.

How's the mounting hardware? 

So my buddy back home just picked up an Opti 50 at a swap meet for $4 today. yeah. He's in the process of seeing if it works or not.


----------



## SilkySlim

That's an awesome find. Anyway I don't know if my original comparison between them is wrong because I wonder if the guy I bought them from didn't slip these in the original place? That disclaimer out these sounded great and been able to find a difference between them AB auditioning old lanzar dc tweets with them. They play low but recommend at least 2.5k or 3000k. Clean, detailed, smooth, small easy to install really impressed. You can't beat their price. I think that the lanzar 150 on them active from 1.2 caused the problem. Good luck 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Yeah, and he reports it works fine...  $4 And he just reported he also scored a set of SE10's of CL. He ran them back in the day off an LXR200 and it rocked the dolamite.

Haha, you run a 150 to a set of tweeters. Awesome. We poor boys from Arkansas only ran "bigger" amps to woofers and little amps to tweeters!


----------



## old school opti

just recieved my x2 thanks to slim for the hookup. and just my luck i came up on a mint x4b..now time to tear it apart and re do.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> Yeah, and he reports it works fine...  $4 And he just reported he also scored a set of SE10's of CL. He ran them back in the day off an LXR200 and it rocked the dolamite.
> 
> Haha, you run a 150 to a set of tweeters. Awesome. We poor boys from Arkansas only ran "bigger" amps to woofers and little amps to tweeters!


Nice but it sounds so good you should try it. The SE's are very efficient and would sound great on the big LXR200 but isn't that like a opti200? BTW the opti200 sound great on tweets and so does a 500/2500. LOL I like my headroom. Nowadays to go from an opti50 to an opti150 is like $75-$90 not like back in the day new that was several hundreds of dollars difference. Don't knock it until you try it.

I love finds like that to bad I have been burned on a few CL deals where they just take your money and never send anything. I need a couple of those finds to catch up. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Oh I know, his system sounded fantastic back in the day. Those SE's in sealed boxes in his pickup played nice and loud, clean, accurate, warm, musical. Loved it and I've always been a ported box guy! He ran an LXR50 to his front door full range 6 1/2 Blaupunkts. Just a great system overall.

Haha, I grew up poor so have just been used to using the poor man's ways even though I can afford way more now and the prices are now a fraction of what they were then. I'm just used to it. The really dumb thing is my vehicles are all loud; exhaust, tires, rattles, squeaks, wind noise, etc. so I NEED headroom! I've often imagined you guys running a pile of 500's to your woofers/mids/tweeters, bet that's pretty freaking sweet to give just a slight twist of the knob and run yourself out of the cab!

He bought is stuff local at swap meets and a guy in town off CL. Yeah I pass on stuff that can't be covered or how low/no reviews as a seller.


----------



## smgreen20

The LXR200 isn't what the Opti200 is. Not to far off but not the same. The LXR200 was my first ever amp pushing 2 LANZAR LP12s.
The LXR200 is rated at:
100 x 2 @ 4 ohms
160 x 2 @ 2 ohms or
320 x 1 @ 4 ohms mono
THD <.03
S/N 98dB


----------



## SilkySlim

Still unreal numbers from a chip amp! Or is it that the 50&100 that are chip but the 200 isn't ? 

Also spoke with someone today from an old dealer who has a friend that has a 100c he has seen it and held it in his hand. The story goes only 8-10 were ever produced prototyped and the guys that have them only about 3 maybe 4 different people will most likely be put to rest with them in there casket. He didn't even allow them to power it up. I was told it had eight power leads coming out. He claimed that he put 64 10" subs in parallel on it. Who knows the myth still lives on. I will work on pics if he gets to see it again. Many big amps from his collection of old stuff was destroyed in Katrina. Maybe one day we will at least get pics.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

None of them are chip amps. The black LXR90 is though, but that was the previous model. 

The guy that told me about the 100c was an Installer for the local LANZAR dealer at the time and he too saw it. I'd love to see one.


----------



## SilkySlim

I have never opened the lxr except the one with the possible board swap. I saw some where the 50&100 were chip amps but the said the 200 was a MOSFET design. They have said one of the best chip amps ever heard. BTW do you know anything about the brute force series? I heard very powerful and smooth from someone but never heard one for myself.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

There's a goliath Brute Force on the 'bay right now for a reasonable price...


----------



## SilkySlim

I know I keep having to talk to the little devil on my my shoulder and tell him I'm not buying it. 

Mr. Acura is that build done yet need to see pictures?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I am recovering from surgery and need to look at some lanzar porn.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Get envious, I know you will.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm envious of the sub. 

Silk, that LXR90 you sent me is original, one of the first runs, explains the brown board-they later went to green. I thought I had my pics loaded on ampguts of my LXR100, guess not. Someone else posted an LXR50 and a later run of the LXR90. 

Still in the hunt for a LXR200.


----------



## SilkySlim

Nice shots, I am envious.
Yea I thought I saw the integrated nec chipsets in there. Got that thing fixed yet? You just missed a 200 not in great shape but a 200 on eBay a couple months ago. My wife won't let me buy anything while I medicated this sucks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Does anyone have an opti 100 or 2100 to get rid of? Ugly beaters welcome, just needs to work fine. He's jonesing to get back in the game.


----------



## DBlevel

Love the old Optidrive amps. Reminds me of the old Car Toys hearse back in the day at the Winston-Salem, NC store.............


----------



## SilkySlim

DB Are you in NC? I remember that car.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Alright mr reed I see what I've got. You need to get back in the game!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DBlevel

SilkySlim said:


> DB Are you in NC? I remember that car.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes.............Winston-Salem, NC.

I worked PT across the street at the Pizza Hut and remember when they would demo the bastard. It would rattle stuff in the store....in the back of the store, can't tell you how many times it knocked stuff off the walls!

Had Lanzar 15" subs with the Optidrive amps in the back.


----------



## DBlevel

Silky where are you?


----------



## old school opti




----------



## SilkySlim

Looking good my friend. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Old school what speakers are you running with that?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

So I went ahead and drank the cool aid, and ordered up a set of those new DCT tweeters. I swear if y'all are messing w/ me to get me to buy new Lanzar crap, I'm going to find out where you live, and come over and poop in your toilet tank. 

Well here's what showed up (stop laughing):









I glanced inside one of the crossover boxes, one tiny 3.3uF capacitor and some sort of little choke coil something whatever, not sure if that's 6 or 12 db, I'm guessing 12 w/ the choke coil thingy. I'm using my own and not these included ones. Just some old Altec Lanzing ACL7 passives (12 db @ 2.2k) I bought at a flea market circa mid-90s. Whatever. The low pass of them goes to the MWS54's in the front doors.









Ugh boy... Hopes and expectations are already sinking but I'm going to keep an open mind and positive attitude - hey, they were $18 to my door! The old ones were Made in 'Merica.









At a glance, and bear w/ me I was doing this over my lunch hour in a hurry, hardware is actually the same as original old-school DC Pro tweeters. I have one of my old DC Pro's temporarily mounted after one of my trusty old mylar dome Lanzars died the other day. Physical dimensions are the same though upon close inspection it looks like someone gave the Chinese the measurements and said here, make this. You can see clear machine marks from the molds in the plastic and no one took the time to take a knife and clear out any casting flash. Not a big deal, just an observation. I was able to swap out old and new tweeters/hardware b/t the two w/o issue. Please keep envy and jealous rage of my sweet install to a minimum.  It's my old farm truck and this is proof of concept stealth install, I'll clean up everything later. Time is a luxury I do not possess.









Old and new side by side, note the old has copper wire, new has tin. 









Old tweeter in new hardware just for kicks:









And the "finished" product, new tweeter in old hardware:









I didn't get much time for a good demo just driving around the block before I had to get back but at a glance, I can't tell a lick of difference b/t the new DCT and my existing old mylar! I don't know if tweeters need to break in like mids/woofers/etc. but I'll know better after a couple days driving. I just listened to a little Bass 305 (stop laughing) because they're really good into the twinkling and snares and stuff, good test for highs. But yeah, w/ my old mylar on the left and this new DCT on the right it doesn't sound like you're walking w/ one foot on the curb, it's quite well matched as far as timbre, sound quality, etc. I haven't A/B compared against my old DC Pro tweeter but will try to after a few days or next week if I can. Chicks, tinkles (haha) and snaps are crisp and smooth w/o being harsh. Very smooth and crisp just like my old Lanzar tweeters. So far, very worth the $18 to my door!


----------



## SilkySlim

Not saying they are the end all be all by any means wish they were the old made in Mercia. The new dc series copies are getting much respect for there performance similarities to the originals. I am curious to find out your long term take on these. 

I am with you on the little QC issues on the china made stuff. Dust caps on the subs being just off center from the screw holes, mold lines, etc. 

I will have to say that was one of the best $18 tweeters I heard. I will admit I have to admit I haven't played with that many but these impressed me. Good luck I don't need any help filling my poop tank. Ordering a set of the dc 154 I let you know.


----------



## thebigjimsho

When my old SHO got broken into and much of my Lanzar and Clarion equipment stolen, I was left with the 2 sets of components. However, one set is missing crossovers, the 5xo. Anyone know how or what to replace them with???


----------



## rreed

Fired up some metal on the way home yesterday. For the stuff that was recorded and produced well (thank you Grave and especially Testament!) there were new cymbal details coming out of that tweeter that I haven't heard before. Having been a drummer for some years a long time ago I have a good ear for a good ride cymbal and it sounded like someone was pinging away on one in the passenger seat of my truck. Not bad!

Stereo image is good, considering it's my old mylar on the left and this new DCT on the right - as good as it gets w/ tweeters mounted at knee-height peeking out from under a steel dash - but still a good sound stage. After I've A/B'ed the old and new to get a good feel for overall frequency range I'll probably swap out and permanently mount both the new DCT's next week some time. I'm not sure but almost seems the DCT reaches up a bit higher than the old mylar, kind of super tweeter-ish, but might be lacking a bit in the lower end for a tweeter. Admitted, this is just at a glance and not sure if it needs break-in time.

Another thing to consider is that this is in an old squeaky, rattly, windy, noisy, growling, grumbling, roaring 70's era pickup w/ steel door panels, vinyl seats and floor covering, and straight glass panel windows. This is not in a plush, sound-proofed, recording studio silent interior European luxury sedan. A quieter vehicle might uncover a lot more flaws in this $18 tweeter than my old farm truck does. While sitting quietly in the parking garage at work w/ the growly rumbling engine off it still does sound pretty good though.

More on it later after a few more days of playing around, etc. And silky I think my buddy has picked up a couple Fosgate amps, I need to follow up w/ him to confirm. He even passed up an old Opti 100 for $100 on the 'bay!!!


----------



## SilkySlim

If you look at the curve of the DCT they are optimistic saying they'll play down to 1.3k. The curve is printed on the side of the box and it's clearly starts dropping around 2.5 sure it plays but we found it's really happy around 2.5. They are breaking in nice and have a very surprising amount of detail. Maybe missing a little air and depth from a top high end like morel or Dyn but smooth full of detail and very composed for the $. Up on the dash a pillars matched with OS DC 6.4 in a 1991 Honda accord my buddy is very happy with his. Very nice blended image.

On the fosgate comment if he is running subs hell be happy but compared to the OS opti it felt like somebody covered my speakers with a comforter when we AB auditioned the lanzar and fosgate punch. My buddy (different one) was floored. On subs though pound for pound and watt for watt the fosgates are very hard to beat.


----------



## rreed

Haha, yeah I saw that. Very steep drop there. My passives are 12db @ 2.2k so a reasonable amount above their claimed 1.3k. After a day or two driving and listening now it seems to very much more closely match the sound of my old mylar, w/ slight differences. Granted, when I A/B'ed my old DC Pro's against my old mylars they were the same differences; the mylars a little more "rugged" sounding while the DC Pro's are more silky smooth, comparatively. Long ago I used to prefer the workin' man's sound of my old mylars over the too-smooth silk but it has since grown on me. The silk domes are very nice and sparkly.

Absolutely, I'm sure there are far better tweeters but I'm very brand-loyal and made in China new Lanzar or not, I'm actually quite happy! And $18! I'm not saying by any means I'm a new Lanzar convert - NO - but I'll pick up a couple more sets of these just to have around. Old Lanzar tweeters don't come along every day and these work quite well for me in my noisy old vehicles.

Hey, my buddy had a Honda Civic circa 1998, he was going to rock the DC 6.4 sets in it! Then he went to a meth house one night, left his windows open w/ keys in the car... The cops found it stripped on the side of the road four days later, his DC Pro 15, DC6.4 sets, Kicker, and Pioneer amps of course, all gone. 

On an old school Lanzar note, I'm getting my rig that I had stripped for sale wired back up again (backed down off sale for now) so I should have at least my ratty old 160 and ZR12 back in it soon. At least two RCA jacks are loose and floppy, I should investigate soldering them back on before going back in. Pretty excited.  My old DC Pro tweeters will probably go in it, atop the dash rather than firing into my knee caps.

I forwarded your note to my buddy (same one mentioned above), he's investigating picking up an Opti 100 to go along w/ his '50. And thanks!


----------



## SilkySlim

Oh that sucks so bad. They most likely didn't get anything for it. What a PITA. I am trying the new DC copies they have all of the drawings and specs nice that they are trying to reproduce the old USA designs! Not like any of these Chinese crap are their original designs anyway it's stuff they have lifted off somebody else. Before I get off track. My DC 154d should be in Monday a couple of buddies can't stop raving about the 12's. He even had over 3k rms to four of them and he said they stood up to the challenge. I am going to try some free air. I was waiting on my 2 16" IDMAX (side note these are absolutely incredible) but I'm going to give these 154DC's a try. Now there is a difference in the 15dc and the 154dc the 154's are the recreations. The 15 uses a stamped steel basket and 10oz less powerful motor. But other than that they look just the same but cheaper. Very hard to tell the difference from a pic. I couldn't resist the price $70 shipped 2day prime ea. Till my new 16 ID's get in again I shouldn't have sold them.

I was very impressed with the old school original dc 10 I have. Sounded great disappeared in the car. But it begged for mercy when I hooked up a 500 4ohm mono to it I believe in headroom but it believed in mercy. Nothing drastic happened I could just tell we were nearing it's mech. limits. 

If your buddy wants I think I might have an extra set of 6.4 I would be glad to help out. He could get some new lanzar dc tweets and a sub and amps that would be awesome system. I would just need pics and market value of course. I'm sure we could get him fixed up again.

Happy to see your building back up your system again. That's awesome. Ferrofluid has real bad problems and although very popular during the nineties it did more harm than good. The fluid will dry up and gum up VC from just age and worse under abuse so even if you can find some of the older tweets they could show problems from daily use even us Americans can find out design flaws later. I wish they had not put it in the new ones. Maybe it's a new synthetic blend LOL. 

Good luck bud pm me if I can help a Lanzar Original Opti Bro. I'm not ready to convert yet ether but I do like the bringing back some good designs!!



Another exciting fun filled Friday night. Wish I was doing car audio. I have some new amps to audition. 




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

94LegendaryAcuraGS said:


> So you guys missed these pics from my post just one page back huh?? :surprised: The 50C is 24" and the 500/2500 is 19" I believe the 200/2200 is 14" as is the 160/4150. I could measure each one of them when I get back to the house if you'd like because I own just about every one of them.  :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> I have an older model JVC that was a best kept secret. Look up the specs on the KW-AVX800. Interestingly enough the AVX line specs were nearly identical to the AVN line from Eclipse. I highly suspect they had a hand in upgrading those units for them.


I just threw up in my mouth a little thinking I let this beauty (50c) slip through my hands. That amp blew up in popularity when it went black and gold. I am putting together a blue system. All the blues are giving me the blues they always appear at the most in opertune times.


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok opti legend man. 
That ride is off the hook now great restore. But I didn't see detail pics of the lanzar opti delisishness. I did see a nice bat install. Please tell me you at least got the wiring done and door speakers done while you had her naked. It looks good deck looks good in the pics. too. Good luck on the rest and keep up the hard work it'll turn out great. Those diamonds should be a beautiful mate with the blue series opti's. I'll really need to hear this when completed. The subs should get pretty violent when called upon. But I want to see some work. Can't wait to see the rest. Deuces mad man!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## emsi_hama

SilkySlim said:


> I just threw up in my mouth a little thinking I let this beauty (50c) slip through my hands. That amp blew up in popularity when it went black and gold. I am putting together a blue system. All the blues are giving me the blues they always appear at the most in opertune times.



I agree the blue ones are way more appealing than the black and golds. Not to worry those nice 50c and EQ went to good hands.


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome I hope to see them in a build!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Got a little jewel coming soon.... pics when she arrives.


----------



## Booyaa63

smgreen20 said:


> I might get a lot of flak for this, but it needs to be said and backed up with proof.
> 
> I'm a huge fan of the old school ('92-97) LANZAR Opti series amps/subs. So I say this with love for this era LANZAR.
> 
> The records need to be set straight and I'm going to do my best to prove what I've been saying in past threads. I am in the middle of going through 250+ issues of car audio mags to find any/all reviews I can of the LANZAR Opti amps. So far what I have found is the Opti2150, Opti500TMS, Opti50c. I know there's a review on the Opti200/Opti2200 (which are not the same amps believe it or not). I want to set the record straight as to their output and what people say about them being WAY under rated.
> 
> This line/era of LANZAR is/was what got me into car audio. My first sub setup was two 12" LANZAR Pro's and a LANZAR LRX200 amp. So I saw this with love for this era Opti.
> 
> As soon as I get all the reviews rounded up I will post my findings.


They were as good as any other amp on the market at the time, i ran many lanzar amps, installed many of them too. I for one dont need proof, they were awesome amps in their day.


----------



## SilkySlim

Welcome booyaa they are awesome amps!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

The suspense is killing me!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

You're only clue, it has six channels, but it's not a 6200.


----------



## rreed

That six channel splitter thing? Saw one on the bay once.


----------



## smgreen20

Close, it actually has 12 ''channels'' or 6 outputs.


----------



## rreed

That's exactly what I meant.


----------



## smgreen20

Here it is, with out further ado, LANZAR da6. One channel pair in, six channel pairs out, line driver. 










I see these every now and again, snagged this one.


----------



## Prime mova

^^ great find where do you get all the cash Mr Green ???


----------



## smgreen20

For this it was birthday money, but as of late, working 60hrs/wk doesn't hurt.


----------



## Richi

Great smgreen, hard to find, congrats.


----------



## Richi

I have some Old school Lanzar products, like dc components with two versions of crossover, I go to put a some pictures after.


----------



## thebigjimsho

Were the silver ones of good quality? I had 2 blue amps and knew the black ones were only cosmetic changes. But I thought after that, they got sold and went downhill...


----------



## Richi

I believe that after the black opti drive amplifiers (Gary Kovner design) they changed the interior and outside design (silver), I know, they were designed by zed audio ( Opti drive 100.2, 200.2,500.2, 100.4 & 1000.1D), these that say designed and manufactured in USA (Last Lanzar amplifiers USA Manufactured). The current silver only say designed and engineered in the United States (no manufactured), these are made in Chinese.
I have the note that zed audio says, these amplifier can not work less than 4 ohms in mono, this note came in the box with the manual.


----------



## rreed

Well sh*t the bed! NOS does NOT mean fresh new surround.  Hardly fired it up just a bit and shortly after getting started dialing in the gain it starts rattling like crazy. Thinking surely it's the $17 too-small prefab box making the noise, I see a chunk of the surround flopping around behind the grill. Pull the grill and find this. SUCK.

Anyone know anything about replacing surrounds? I'm thinking pick up a Cerwin Vega surround repair kit and figure it out. :laugh:










Put back in my reliable old ZR12 and shelved this new 10 for the time being until I can get a repair kit. I'm not giving up on it though.


----------



## Richi

rreed; I believe that the crewing vega surround repair kit that you said is the best option; or you could put a transparent glue like UHU.

good luck.

12" Cerwin Vega Red Surround Foam DX 5 and DX 7 CV 12 in Drivers Red Grey | eBay


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Here it is, with out further ado, LANZAR da6. One channel pair in, six channel pairs out, line driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see these every now and again, snagged this one.


That is bad A. I love it. Nice pick up there for sure.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Richi said:


> I have some Old school Lanzar products, like dc components with two versions of crossover, I go to put a some pictures after.


Beautiful. A little of each of the best eras of Lanzar. Very nice.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Pulse_GTO

smgreen20 said:


> Let's start by stating what's wrong with them?


My 2200 has a channel that is not working. Can't tell you which one, been about 6 years since I've used it. I will try to get some pictures this weekend.


----------



## smgreen20

Another gem on the way. Shouldn't have spent the money but couldn't resist. Pics next week when it arrives. OA12S4. I MIGHT give this one to my son, don't know yet???


----------



## Prime mova

smgreen20 said:


> Another gem on the way. Shouldn't have spent the money but couldn't resist. Pics next week when it arrives. OA12S4. I MIGHT give this one to my son, don't know yet???


Mike, is OA12S4 a special code or something ? Let us ignorant people know what it is.


----------



## smgreen20

Lol. OA = OpenAir, 12 = 12" , S = SVC, 4 = 4 ohms.


----------



## Richi

Hello, this is my Lanzar collection. I hope you like.


----------



## smgreen20

Nice! Are those fan shrouds I see in the white boxes? In the same pic, it seems you have more comps then you know what to do with. You really need sell me a set..... or two! 

I have a friend that has around 16 twelve inch DC subs, it appears you could give him a run for his money.


----------



## Richi

smgreen20 said:


> Nice! Are those fan shrouds I see in the white boxes? In the same pic, it seems you have more comps then you know what to do with. You really need sell me a set..... or two!
> 
> I have a friend that has around 16 twelve inch DC subs, it appears you could give him a run for his money.


Yes the withe boxes are Fan shrouds, The comp are DC6.1, DC5.1 & DC4.1, all comp are new. Please Shoot me a Pm with an offer on what you want & How much want you friend for the DC subs.


----------



## Richi

DC6.1, DC5.1 & DC4.1 DC SERIES COMPONENTS.

American crafted Excellence Performance


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> Here it is, with out further ado, LANZAR da6. One channel pair in, six channel pairs out, line driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see these every now and again, snagged this one.


Dang!!!! I would love to have that. I have a x4b,(2) G2M, (2) G4S, S2x and Opti e5 EQ (I do not Think I have ever seen another in recent years). That 
DA6 would go nicely with the rest of the gear.


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> Lol. OA = OpenAir, 12 = 12" , S = SVC, 4 = 4 ohms.


I recently picked up two NOS OA-8 4 and to match two ZR-12 8. Both with black surrounds. I need to repair the surrounds though on the 12's. Anyone know where I can get a LP15-8 fixed? Voice coil sounds like it is loose.


----------



## jrs1006

Richi said:


> Hello, this is my Lanzar collection. I hope you like.


I think I just wet myself. That is a great collection.


----------



## emsi_hama

Richi said:


> Hello, this is my Lanzar collection. I hope you like.


wow, another lanzar collection! .....and the lxr's!!!


----------



## Richi

emsi_hama said:


> wow, another lanzar collection! .....and the lxr's!!!


The LXR is LXR300


----------



## smgreen20

I know where there's a NIB LXR300 at, for sale even. Don't know how much and I won't be able to get the price until my next visit in December.


----------



## emsi_hama

yeah, I have a couple of white LXR100's and they already sounded clear for seps and makes 10" sub move.


----------



## smgreen20

My first amp was a white LXR200, looking for one to buy if you happen to see one. I have an LXR90, LXR50 LXR100 and an LXR120Q. Just need the 200 to complete the set.


----------



## jrs1006

Has anyone tried the new Lanzar DCT154D. I know they are not going to be nearly as durable as the DC-15's but curious if the cone is the same as the old with a new surround and center cap. I think the voice coil is different as well. Just curious if anyone has experienced them yet.


----------



## SilkySlim

Richi said:


> Hello, this is my Lanzar collection. I hope you like.


That is impressive! Very nice!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

jrs1006 said:


> Has anyone tried the new Lanzar DCT154D. I know they are not going to be nearly as durable as the DC15's but curious if the cone is the same as the old with a new surround and center cap. I think the voice coil is different as well. Just curious if anyone has experienced them yet.


I am running a set I'm almost imbarased to say how good they sound I think they really like a larger box than I have them in. But they still sound great. And yes the cone looks the same. They are looking for about 2-2.25 maybe even 2.50. Sealed apiece. I have a set of 8's up front running the 15's are crossed over about 50-60hz with them and they sound great! They disappear and I have no phase control or time alinement correction. I mean they really disappear. Right now they are in 1.75cuft each and in a very crappy per made box. For a comparison I tried 2 Mmats p3 15's louder deeper in same box but much closer to optimum for them. But seemed very sloppy, localized etc in comparison. As soon as notes would drop they moved to the rear and had a loss of detail compared to the Lanzar's. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jrs1006

SilkySlim said:


> I am running a set I'm almost imbarased to say how good they sound I think they really like a larger box than I have them in. But they still sound great. And yes the cone looks the same. They are looking for about 2-2.25 maybe even 2.50. Sealed apiece. I have a set of 8's up front running the 15's are crossed over about 50-60hz with them and they sound great! They disappear and I have no phase control or time alinement correction. I mean they really disappear. Right now they are in 1.75cuft each and in a very crappy per made box. For a comparison I tried 2 Mmats p3 15's louder deeper in same box but much closer to optimum for them. But seemed very sloppy, localized etc in comparison. As soon as notes would drop they moved to the rear and had a loss of detail compared to the Lanzar's.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I will have to look at manual but from what I remember the LP-15's were the same way. I fortunately have a pair of LP-15's. It might be worth taking a closer look. The could of left out the "distinct" word out of the dust cap. It would look a million times better. Does it say anywhere what the cones are made of? I think that is going to be the give away. Surround is some type of rubber right? It does sound like maybe they have come up with some woofers that would compare to the DC/LP and the ZR/SE series. I have always loved how all of those sound. and my dream system. decided to check out Manual here it is.


----------



## edouble101

Lets see those DC subs!!


----------



## SilkySlim

? Mine ?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DBlevel

Sorry moved it to the right section!


----------



## SilkySlim

I you want I'll pull one and take some pics.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## 8675309

I picked up a pair of BNIB Opti drive 2150's in 2002 that had no logos/markings. Does anyone know what the story behind the no logo amps is? I recall the seller was selling a crap load of lanzar product at the time all BNIB.


----------



## SilkySlim

If anyone knows its Mr. Lanzar/Clarion Green. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

A few possibilities, they did a color change in the paint from white to gold, some didn't get painted at all and was old stock, maybe a customer ordered it that way and never paid/picked them up or possibly a changeover point from the old blueish colored ones with 3 numbers to the darker 4 digit ones. My 500 isn't painted blue, but polished in that color with white print. I was informed that the polished sinks are special editions. What's special about them I don't know, but I've only seen 2. A 100 and my 500.


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok so I have a question what's the story with the anodized blue versions any touts? The same as the polished?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

I was told polished, but anodized is probably more accurate. They'd be one in the same. A special edition, though I'm not so sure what's special about them other then the sink.


----------



## cthayer

Hi, I am new to this forum, I realize this is an Opti lovers thread, but I have been a fan of Lanzar since 1990, I have several Lanzar Series 1 amplifiers, and their predecessors. Including an LZ30(S), an LZ50, an LZ100, an LZ160S, an LZ240, and an LZ250S. I have been looking for any of the Plus series amplifiers from that era that were half ohm stable. These were the predecessors of the Opti Drive amplifiers. I am also looking for any information on these amps. I have a brochure from 1991, as well as a Series 1 instruction manual that I am posting as PDF files. I have a color version of the brochure also.


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks, way to contribute on your first post. If only I knew how to post pdf's.


----------



## jrs1006

cthayer said:


> Hi, I am new to this forum, I realize this is an Opti lovers thread, but I have been a fan of Lanzar since 1990, I have several Lanzar Series 1 amplifiers, and their predecessors. Including an LZ30(S), an LZ50, an LZ100, an LZ160S, an LZ240, and an LZ250S. I have been looking for any of the Plus series amplifiers from that era that were half ohm stable. These were the predecessors of the Opti Drive amplifiers. I am also looking for any information on these amps. I have a brochure from 1991, as well as a Series 1 instruction manual that I am posting as PDF files. I have a color version of the brochure also.


Very nice post welcome to the forum.


----------



## SilkySlim

Agreed welcome


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## SilkySlim

Crickets? Where are the pics Acura TL I need to see!!!! I need some motivation.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

I'll add, just scored an Opti200 for $85 shipped. It's in ~7/10 condition. Needs new power/ground wires which I have waiting, and a good cleaning and it'll be a ~8.5/10. Also scored a rough shape ~7/10 Opti100Q that looks like it'll clean up real nice. I'll be giving that one to my son.


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome score! Way to start the inheritance package!


----------



## SilkySlim

Thinking about an final family shoot before I start restoring and fixing amps. Any interest. Going to have a major sell off this month.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Ugh, I think green got the ratty old 200 I was eyeing for my some day dream system. :-| Oh well, fair's fair.

Silky, if it's Lanzar stuff, yes.


----------



## smgreen20

The one that was $85 shipped? Yep, I got it.


----------



## smgreen20

I was watching a 150 on eBay that the seller kept lowering the price. The last I saw it was at $85 + $15 shipping, then I went back to think hard about getting it, he had lowered it to $75 free shipping, it wasalready sold. Damnit!


----------



## SilkySlim

I know Mr green it was an awesome deal. I was watching that too. It killed me not to jump on those. Anyway glad you got the other one. Just cash and fun money poor right now. Congrats on the deals.
Silly Mr. Reed of course it's a Lanzar family photo. I feel like a Lanzar amp rescue home. The Lanzar Fam is going to have to shrink. I will be placing some of them with deserving families soon. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

I'm looking for a 6200 if the price is right.


----------



## SilkySlim

I found one in Florida pretty decent price if I remember. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

I'm looking for a good zr12-4 and either 200 (ugh!!) or 2200. I really need to break out my 2050's and compare to my 160 as well as a/b my blue/gray processors against my black ones to confirm which series I like better. I finally have a few extra coins to spare so whoever has stuff to sell let's talk please.


----------



## smgreen20

Here's the Opti200 I "stole" for $85 shipped. I'll need to replace the power/ground wires and clean up the rust spots, but other then that a great amp. The fins are a bit more beat up then I thought or would've liked but I'm not complaining. 




















Also the Opti100Q I "stole" as well from craigslist for $65 shipped. Believe it or not, this is my first Opti amp that's TMS, not PLUS.
This MIGHT be for my son, he doesn't have his license just yet.....


----------



## John15511

I used to work for a Lanzar dealer back in the day. Still have my 6200 after all these years. Looks like I may start collecting a few others for a throwback install. Smgreen was it you who inquired on my 6200 on FB? I think I may have a few pics when we had the Lanzar van at the shop. I'll scan and upload them when I find em.


----------



## smgreen20

Yeah that was me. I saw the van back in 94 at our local dealer during a competition.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> I'm looking for a good zr12-4 and either 200 (ugh!!) or 2200. I really need to break out my 2050's and compare to my 160 as well as a/b my blue/gray processors against my black ones to confirm which series I like better. I finally have a few extra coins to spare so whoever has stuff to sell let's talk please.


Pmed you. I actually want to see you do something. Enjoy these beauties. You better post some pics.


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> I feel like a Lanzar amp rescue home. The Lanzar Fam is going to have to shrink. I will be placing some of them with deserving families soon.


You sound like a fellow Lanzar junkie. 

When the time comes let me know what you will be parting with.. I have a couple empty spaces on one of my Lanzar shelves.

-RF


----------



## smgreen20

I shouldn't have but I did, a NIB LANZAR LP10-8 reared its head last night and I head been looking for a second one, so I grabbed it. Seller also said he has a LP15 if I was interested. So I inquired about it.


----------



## SilkySlim

LOL at least you have the matching pair now.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Thanks for the hook-up, silky!! Yep, I'll post pics soon as I can when stuff starts happening. Probably won't be anything exiting but I'll do what I can.

If I can make it out to do a little a/b'ing of my x4b's at lunch today I'll take some pics of my wiring job so everyone can have a good laugh, and probably kick me out of the Lanzar club.


----------



## SilkySlim

So I had to go to an emergency call last night for work had get on the system to help fight fatigue and the work van rattled my inner ear bone. Was doing some serious flexing last night. 
Man I love old school Lanzar! Nothing like it old school van, Def Leppord, Rush, on and on the drummers made me feel like a stunt double from grudge match when I got back! It was beautiful!    mr. Kingston, and NIN tried to give me chest compressions. I have found the winning system. Unbelievable.

Can't wait til I can clean it all up. 
Also big props to the new DCT154 wow one of the most impressive musical 15's I've heard. I have heard many only two I like the IDMax and the new DCT 154's. But I will say there design specs and support sucks. Haven't had to warranty these are beasts I doubt I will. Their composure is very impressive. I will also have to say the QC is not Lanzar of old but minor stuff really dusty caps slightly rotated, manual, specs. I don't think you could top it for the money though. Can't wait to try the new eights!
Disclaimer I did like the OS DC15's, JL Audio 15w6, id15 and the usd15 ok but preferred the 10's or 12's.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

You should send me a pic of your woofer install, silky. 

How about THIS for install? At lunch today swapping out my beater turd x4b for my black one to do a little more a/b'ing. Love my wiring, love it!


----------



## SilkySlim

John15511 said:


> I used to work for a Lanzar dealer back in the day. Still have my 6200 after all these years. Looks like I may start collecting a few others for a throwback install. Smgreen was it you who inquired on my 6200 on FB? I think I may have a few pics when we had the Lanzar van at the shop. I'll scan and upload them when I find em.


Ahhhhhh let the chorus sing that is a beautiful sight. Very nice!!!!!

Edit I would own any of those great amps. Hercules and 2150sx all three super high quality amps I can't even count how many of those I sold and installed new. My favorites are still the Lanzar's but the other two are in my top 5. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> You should send me a pic of your woofer install, silky.
> 
> How about THIS for install? At lunch today swapping out my beater turd x4b for my black one to do a little more a/b'ing. Love my wiring, love it!


Hopefully building a new enclosure for them and a new baffle to try them free air. Should sound awesome sure would take up less trunk space! The amp rack is nothing to write home about but functional. It is a work van I am waiting for a day to tear it down to for the final. 
I think I will end up with a
Clarion 702
Zed Ra
EQ30
Xb2
50c on 2 DCT154
200 2 ?DCT84
160Q Bridged on ea door DC6.4
2150 on 4"component pods yet to be determined maybe dc4
50 on 4" OS Lanzar coax
I'll post some pics later.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Man I really hope there was something wrong w my old turd beater x4b. When I swapped it out for my black one it was like somebody hit the loudness button and cranked up the eq on the hu. And bass boost. Mids/highs are sharp clearer and more lively and bass drops way down and kicks a lot harder all of a sudden. I have another gray x4b I was running before this turd. I was testing and just left in place, I don't recall that kind of difference b/t and my black one. I grabbed it and have it w to swap out and try it again after a while. Hmm...


----------



## SilkySlim

Man sounds like a problem it's been twenty years since I have a/b'd the crossover and that was because of customer error. I don't remember there being that much of a difference other than cosmetics. Keep us updated. Maybe I'll ab some of mine.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Yeah I think at first I was running my black one, then later picked up a nice clean gray one, when I swapped them out to a/b there was only very slight difference at the time. I later picked up the beater gray one and swapped it in to test and could tell no difference b/t it and its clean sister. I parked this rig for a while then recently hopped back in it, it'd been a while so I didn't notice if something was different. Apparently something is now.

I'm running my black one now and after a few days or so I'll swap back for my clean gray one and see if there's any difference. From there I'll check through this beater to see if something's obviously bad.

I also need to get those new DCT tweeters I picked up back out again and see how they compare to my old DC Pro tweeters, I was running them in the old farm truck for a while to break in. Last I recall, still not too shabby and well worth the $18! They'll end up in this rig eventually, once I get time to swap out these crummy half-blown Infinity Krappas for some of my Lanzar drivers and complete this one's all-Lanzar system.


----------



## SilkySlim

jrs1006 said:


> Has anyone tried the new Lanzar DCT154D. I know they are not going to be nearly as durable as the DC-15's but curious if the cone is the same as the old with a new surround and center cap. I think the voice coil is different as well. Just curious if anyone has experienced them yet.


Just saw this don't know how I missed it. They are monsters. They are one of the most musical fifteens I have heard period. The design support leaves much to be desired but they sound fantastic and handle loads of clean power. They are tough. Very impressed didn't try any of the org. Dc so I can't compare them to those but they are one of the best values out.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> Yeah I think at first I was running my black one, then later picked up a nice clean gray one, when I swapped them out to a/b there was only very slight difference at the time. I later picked up the beater gray one and swapped it in to test and could tell no difference b/t it and its clean sister. I parked this rig for a while then recently hopped back in it, it'd been a while so I didn't notice if something was different. Apparently something is now.
> 
> I'm running my black one now and after a few days or so I'll swap back for my clean gray one and see if there's any difference. From there I'll check through this beater to see if something's obviously bad.
> 
> I also need to get those new DCT tweeters I picked up back out again and see how they compare to my old DC Pro tweeters, I was running them in the old farm truck for a while to break in. Last I recall, still not too shabby and well worth the $18! They'll end up in this rig eventually, once I get time to swap out these crummy half-blown Infinity Krappas for some of my Lanzar drivers and complete this one's all-Lanzar system.


Can't wait to hear about update. Buy Mr. Greens they sound great! You won't beat them for the $$$. What up mr. Green not letting us in on that action? Good luck on getting the rig back on track. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## PUREAUDIO

my babys


----------



## SilkySlim

Nice a 200 & 500 TMS very cool. Great system sitting there begging for a vehicle.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## PUREAUDIO

its a 100QTMS 4ch and a 500TMS


----------



## smgreen20

I will say this, this thread was intended to put things straight and prove to people that these amps are not underrated rated in power. I love them and would love for them to be underrated but they're not. On that note, the test I saw on the Opti50 and Opti100Q they were underrated. The 100Q did about 48w per ch, and about 170w bridged x 2. The 50 is about the same, a bit more iir. 

After Xmas I'll have a few more things to show. I'll be driving to my favorite audio store 2 1/2 hrs away. In the next few days I should have my second NIB LP10-8. Pics when she arrives, with her sister, of course.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> I will say this, this thread was intended to put things straight and prove to people that these amps are not underrated rated in power. I love them and would love for them to be underrated but they're not. On that note, the test I saw on the Opti50 and Opti100Q they were underrated. The 100Q did about 48w per ch, and about 170w bridged x 2. The 50 is about the same, a bit more iir.
> 
> After Xmas I'll have a few more things to show. I'll be driving to my favorite audio store 2 1/2 hrs away. In the next few days I should have my second NIB LP10-8. Pics when she arrives, with her sister, of course.


Link is to the test don't hold out!  

I think it will depend on the freq. Tested I have a theory that they will out perform most comprable powered amps below 40hz. Their low end is of the charts but their upper sub and mid bass are strong and not lacking. You just get more faithful harmonics and notes on the low end. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

With Dereck's new DA-1 and the way it measures, these amps are going to be/show way more output then rated.


----------



## SilkySlim

Agreed the headroom off these should give some great dynamic burst numbers. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

At how many volts input? And i'd like to know how many amperes pulled as well if we could please.


----------



## smgreen20

Of course amperage draw is dependent on voltage and vise verse, along with ohms. The Opti amps have a regulated power supply so no matter the voltage, the wattage will remain the same (in theory). So at 12.4v it will draw more current/amperage then it would at 14.4 volts to remain at the same output. 

On to why I'm posting. Fresh from the mail today, NIB LANZAR LP10-8!!!









































































Here it is with it's sister.









There are a few differences that you can clearly see, just a difference in production years. The one on the left is a '94, right is a "95.


----------



## rreed

Sorry, yes that's what I meant. A chart would be nice, something like:

12.x volts @ 4 ohm stereo = x amps
12.x volts @ 4 ohm mono = x amps
14.x volts @ 4 ohm stereo = x amps
14.x volts @ 4 ohm mono = x amps
etc., etc.

Arial font, 10pt, bold please. 

Back in the day my buddy had three of them in his S-10 running off some ironing board of a Precision Power amp, it was like getting hit in the head w/ a 20 lb. sledge hammer by a really big f-ing dude. It was ungodly that thing. Standard cab, too! Then he swapped them out for some JL Audio woofers and it sounded like pathetic crap after that.


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok so still interested in a powdercoating peeling not real good shape Broken internals non working 50C. Just let me know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## smgreen20

I'm afraid to ask silk, but... pm me a price. It'll be a bit after Xmas before I can buy it though. I have prior commitments to others first.


----------



## rreed

So i'm curious, what is everyone using for power cable connectors at their amps? I have 1-2 of the original Lanzar ones but doubt they're that common these days.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry Mr. Green I was looking for a 50c heatsink mainly. I don't have one. My fault.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## knever3

Don't miss this one, it's spelled wrong. I guess they can't read the label on the amp!!

Lansar LXR 150 MOSFET High Performance Audio Car Amp | eBay


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks for the heads up. I'm watching it now. Great price thus far.


----------



## Richi

New arrival to my Opti Drive collection.


----------



## Richi

smgreen20 said:


> Of course amperage draw is dependent on voltage and vise verse, along with ohms. The Opti amps have a regulated power supply so no matter the voltage, the wattage will remain the same (in theory). So at 12.4v it will draw more current/amperage then it would at 14.4 volts to remain at the same output.
> 
> On to why I'm posting. Fresh from the mail today, NIB LANZAR LP10-8!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is with it's sister.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few differences that you can clearly see, just a difference in production years. The one on the left is a '94, right is a "95.


Very nice twins Sub, I can't see the difference.


----------



## smgreen20

Not so much really that there's a few, but the terminals are reversed.


----------



## DBlevel

Just picked this up, going to try it on the tweets..........




























Replacing the US Acoustic usa2100 which I think is a little much for the tweeters.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Not so much really that there's a few, but the terminals are reversed.


Big congrats on the match those will sound great!!!!


----------



## smgreen20

Well, I sent you a text and you replied but when you got home no more reply other then this post.


----------



## 63flip

Just curious. That favorite audio shop 2 1/2 hr from Lafayette isn't in the Fort is it? If it is it's one of mine too.


----------



## smgreen20

Aauuuuuuuhhhhhh, I don't know what you're talking about........ 

Yes, it's in the fort. I'll be going there in the beginning of March to pick up a few things, done he's holding for me and some he's not.


----------



## 63flip

We shall speak of it no more.


----------



## smgreen20

I've all but given up on my Clarion amp that the post office somehow lost, we well as the sub I mailed out the same that they managed to lose too. 

I have since accquired a LANZAR Opti160Q and just today a set of NIB LANZAR MD4, 4" mids. Hopefully these will arrive and I will get some pictures posted.


----------



## rreed

Sweet! I have two sets of black MD4's and one set of old orange/triangle logo MD4's. The orange 4's are going to go into my front doors after I've figured out how to shoehorn my MW6.5's into the back doors.

Where did you find a NIB set of drivers?


----------



## SilkySlim

Congrats

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Popped up on eBay and bought them right away. $45 shipped.


----------



## jrs1006

Ok so this weekend I am going to post a bunch of pics of the gear I have. 
7 processors. ie eq, noise gates, line driver, crossovers
2 set of DC5.1 components 
3.5" component speaker only
multiple crossovers and tweets
2 LP 15's
2 VS 12's
2 OA 8's

and I think that's it.
I think that's it.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm going to hold you to it. 

I'll have some pics posted myself here in a couple of hours of the 160Q that arrived yesterday.


----------



## SilkySlim

Wow a couple LP15 I remember those working well IB. Very nice my friend.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I just got a very nice Condition LXR 150. The post man bent the mounting flange on one corner but not bad. Clean on the inside.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I finally get to hear a good one.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> We shall speak of it no more.


LOL you guys are funny.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok Mr. Green I was skeptical of the LXR but holy crap no one is getting this little beauty. It is a gem so simple and clean. Guts wow even in 8 ohm stereo. Barely sipping current. Very very impressive. Don't know if you can bridge it don't care. WOW!   looks like a simplified opti 50/2050 guts but sounds more like a 150/2150. Can't wait to go through this. My precious. I still think the opti's are a little better but man they give them a run for sure.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

The LXL150 is bridgeable. I'll have to look it up tomorrow for you as to what's what. Nice piece there.


----------



## smgreen20

I know where there's an LXR300 NIB if you're interested. Not sure of price and I can't be 100% sure he still has it but I'm pretty confident he does.


----------



## smgreen20

I still need to look up what colors are what for that amp, but the wife is asleep and they're in the bedroom.

Here's my newest addition to the family, LANZAR Opti160Q TMS































































This is the Opti160 PLUS









The one on the left is the 160Q TMS, right 160 PLUS


----------



## rreed

Interesting the Plus has a larger cluster of medium-sized caps in the middle, near the first little vertical board than the TMS. And the "shield wall" that the TMS doesn't. I have two 160 Plus's, I'll have to see if mine have that same larger cluster of caps and shield wall. Yours is the first I've seen w/ red dip switches vs. the usual blue. 

Are all the matching caps b/t the two the same make/model or did they use different caps?

Which of the two series is newer, the Plus or TMS? I don't have my literature in front of me right now.


----------



## SilkySlim

I think the plus came first then the TMS was released for the last couple years of the blue/gray series. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Silky is correct the TMS is the latest. When they changed color and all the model numbers went to four digits, I wanted to think that there was one last change in the Tracking Management System (TMS) .
So as far as the blueish Opti's go, the TMS line is the line to have, sort of.

That cluster of caps sectionalso just has 2 vertical chips as opposed to 2 resistors in the 160 PLUS.


----------



## SilkySlim

So in all of the opti amps I've seen so far they use either the Motorola or ST lm833 op amps. These have been measured and are not one of the best audio op amps. At the time they were released they were suppose to be the new bees knees but were a pretty big let down. I have been looking into this and had a couple of amps fixed with Shawn k did a great job and put in sockets so I can try some out. I am first trying the AD that he recommended and has used before. They sound great. I will be trying a couple more. But browns and a couple others. I am trying them in a 2500 & 2150. I post my opinions if anyone wants to know.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Yeah that's how I was thinking it was. I would still love to know the difference in sound, if there is that much. I've been running one of my 160 Plus's for a good four years now and am very happy, no complaints. A while before that I was running a couple of my black 2050's. I still need to find some time to setup a test lab to compare my Plus amps to my 2050's, although all my older ones are more power than my 2050's (the only blacks that I have; three 2050's). I do recall a reasonably noticeable difference b/t the gray and the black when I first fired up my 160 from the 2050's.

Anyways, there is definitely an obvious difference b/t the two amps!


----------



## SilkySlim

I have notice a difference already. Transients seem sharper and more defined, image ifs more focused and deeper. I will be doing more involved auditioning against the org. Blue vs black vs black mod..

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## WestCo

I love my modded 2500 lanzar, I will definitely be buying more when I see them pop up.

Runs a little warm, but not hot. Great amps... I am a believer.


----------



## SilkySlim

Until you hear it you don't understand. Hard to match the balance of detail, warmth, and shear grunt that that amp does. Just when I think I find something close it still shows me why it's king. I will say I'm pleasantly surprised @ the 2150 reconditioned/upgrade. Thanks Mr. West I hope you enjoy. That 4150 is a very nice piece too!!  

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

To be clear, are y'all talking about the same amp, just Plus vs. TMS? Or which amp vs. which amp exactly please?


----------



## smgreen20

WestCo said:


> I love my modded 2500 lanzar, I will definitely be buying more when I see them pop up.
> 
> Runs a little warm, but not hot. Great amps... I am a believer.


2 of them just popped up on eBay a few hours ago.


----------



## WestCo

smgreen20 said:


> 2 of them just popped up on eBay a few hours ago.


Added to my watch list until payday!


----------



## SilkySlim

Those are clean nice find and listed a little different should be there awhile. I'd be all over those. I'm not of course I got plenty. I bow out. I hope someone here gets them. I have a BNIB I have my eye on for my final. Expensive but perfect.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Here is a great link to a review (no nonsense) of op amps. I will be trying four or five of these.

NwAvGuy: op amps


----------



## smgreen20

The LXR amps wiring color code is:
White: L+, bridge
Green: L-
Yellow: R+
Brown: R-, bridge


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome thanks Mr. Green!  I still prefer the Opti's but man those LXR's are great simple clean surprising. The image ifs very solid for such an inexpensive amp. The Opti's are a little more realistic, deeper, and a little lower noise floor. That said that LXR was very stable and rock solid on the image. Very clean and plenty of power. The biggest surprise was the efficiency. It only uses a single op amp vs. 4 on the Opti's.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

As far as the Black LXR amps
90, 22.5wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, non-bridgeable 
150, 37.5wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 150w 
300, 75wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 300w
Stable to 2 ohms stereo
THD .??%

White LXR amps : 
50, 25wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 80w
100, 50wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 160w
200, 100wpc @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 320w
120Q, 30wpc x 4ch @ 4 ohms stereo, bridgeable @ 100w x 2
THD .03%
2 ohm stable stereo


----------



## SilkySlim

Thank for the specs. Much needed.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Spent a couple hours auditioning the lxr and a modded 2150 & 200 and the Opti's are better but for a compact, efficient, value amp it's a great choice. If you have the space, money and electrical the Opti's are the better choice in my opinion. They differences really start to become apparent when you start too push them. The Opti's keep there composure much better and have more head room. Of course the price difference now is not nearly as big but man the LXR does a great job fir what it is surprising!  
Hope this helps someone.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> I can't find the review of the Opti200/2200.
> 
> So I'm going to start with the Opti2150 from the April '97 issue of AS&S, pg 26-28. Everything I post will be direct quotes from that issue.
> 
> "If you are bulletproof can you simultaneously be lame? Sure could be, lots of cheap amps don't fail, but they don't hit either. The Opti2150 hits dead center. Rated for 75 watts, it puts out 76 watts just below clipping and just .0096% distortion. All the part and... ...pay off at 2 ohm stereo with an almost perfect doubling to 141 watts and .0235% distortion. The 4 ohm mono reading should be 141 + 141 and turns out at 280 watts and .0245%. This performance happens at any battery voltage above 11 volts and that's what tightly regulated means."
> 
> Opti500TMS
> October '95 AS&S issue, pg 31-32
> "The high power numbers were outstanding; .010 at 2 x 260 watts into 4 ohm stereo and 2 x 507 watts at .020% into 2 ohm stereo. The 4 ohm mono results ran 1030 watts at .080% distortion. The guys at LANZAR said to do 2 ohms mono... ...even on this large a heat sink, requires a fan when driving 2 ohm stereo or less."
> 
> Numbers were not given at 2 ohm mono other then they said "Dynamic power was 2000 watts... ...draws 220 amperes at full power."
> 
> 
> Opti50c
> November '95 AS&S issue, pg 30-31
> "Typical numbers for dampening like 200-500 are good and common, and anything over 100 is adequate but this amp does 16,000 and the power supply is like I said, tightly regulated. This combination of near perfect specs shows up in the power output like this:
> 4 ohm speakers/watts per speaker/ watts per channel
> -------1---------/---------37--------/---------37---------
> -------2---------/---------37--------/---------74---------
> -------4---------/---------34.5------/---------138-------
> -------8---------/---------32.5------/---------260-------
> ------16---------/--------25.5-------/--------408--------
> 
> All this power would be useless if distortion or noise was high, but the distortion was excellent at .0094% 1watts/1kHz and .028% 1watt/5kHz. Full power numbers at 4 ohm 37 watts ran .013 and even .25 ohm 408 watts was only .30%."


i have to say Mr. Green this describes the 50C to a tee. This has to be the best bass/sub amp I've ever used or connected to subs. The amount of control, low end extension and sheer grunt this thing has is utterly impressive. I would be curious to see the amount of dynamic or musical power (and headroom) this amp has. The current delivery on all the Opti's do give you improved low end extension and power delivery on large difficult drivers (Large high excursion driver) that is where these are just truly amazing for there ratings. The SQ and control of these amps never stop surprising me when auditioning amps. :drummer::rockon:


----------



## smgreen20

Weekend off, going to get some pictures up. Stay tuned.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm going to be all over the place with this post so please bear with me. 

These are some of the things I have acquired in the last month, so hold on.

LANZAR MD4's


















A little 3-way action.
MW6, MD4, TWS tweeters









The Opti160Q is new.









The one on the left is the 160Q, the right is the 160. Just a side by side for you.









Opti100









As you can see, it looks as if it's in need of a new cap. I have not put power to it yet and wont until the caps have been replaced.









LANZAR LP10-8 Pro, the one on the right is the new to me sub. 




































Oh, and did I mention, NIB!!!









Opti200 PLUS, not in the greatest shape, but she's a beaut.



















My second 100Q


















OA12-4



















That's all for now. I just had two more LP10-4's shipped to me today. Pics when they arrive. One will be for my collection and the other I'm going to give to my son.


----------



## rreed

Those 4's are interesting. Old style box but cursive logo, and grayframe. All mine are black frame though I used to have a set of two-ways that were gray framed. Even my antique triangle logo 4's are black framed. I've only seen the gray framed mids in propaganda literature.


----------



## smgreen20

I've never seen the Gray ones either. Rare maybe, Idk?


----------



## 63flip

I'm working on an OS Lanzar build. It's still in the early stages and really won't take off 'til
the weather up here starts warming a little. 
The heart of it is a pair of 15" DC's and a 50c I will be bringing home shortly. Then a pair of 2050's for front and rear. The funds for the 2050's will probably take another month or so but they are waiting for me. I could get them sooner if I could bring myself to selling some equipment I already have that's being put to use filling a closet. Gasp!
This will be going in my extended cab Ford Ranger. This will definitely be my biggest undertaking. I'm pretty sure this is going to take an electrical upgrade to go along with building the custom enclosure. I just hope I can find the time between work, wife, kids and everything else. 
I will try getting some pics up but I really suck at this. I've got the photobucket but now I can't figure out how to attach from there. I'll figure out eventually! Full disclosure: I finally got myself an email account about a year and a half ago so I'm a little behind on this whole interwebs thing.


----------



## cajunner

there's an amp test of the 50C on youTube, 

Old School Lanzar Opti Drive 50c Ultra High Current Cheater Amp RMS Power Output Test SMD DD-1 - YouTube

I love the old Lanzar, but it was so expensive back when.

I imagine the use of ultra-low noise/thd op-amps could only make these bad boys even better.


----------



## 63flip

They were beyond my budget too back in the day. I was a broke high schooler that could barely put gas in my tank, and to think it was only about $1.25 pg back then.
Now that I have the expendable income and you can buy this old school equipment for a fraction of what it once was I have been drawn back to it. eBay and Caigslist also have made it easier to source. This Lanzar system I'm preparing to build was only a dream back then.


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> They were beyond my budget too back in the day. I was a broke high schooler that could barely put gas in my tank, and to think it was only about $1.25 pg back then.
> Now that I have the expendable income and you can buy this old school equipment for a fraction of what it once was I have been drawn back to it. eBay and Caigslist also have made it easier to source. This Lanzar system I'm preparing to build was only a dream back then.


Here here!


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> They were beyond my budget too back in the day. I was a broke high schooler that could barely put gas in my tank, and to think it was only about $1.25 pg back then.
> Now that I have the expendable income and you can buy this old school equipment for a fraction of what it once was I have been drawn back to it. eBay and Caigslist also have made it easier to source. This Lanzar system I'm preparing to build was only a dream back then.







63flip said:


> I'm working on an OS Lanzar build. It's still in the early stages and really won't take off 'til
> the weather up here starts warming a little.
> The heart of it is a pair of 15" DC's and a 50c I will be bringing home shortly. Then a pair of 2050's for front and rear. The funds for the 2050's will probably take another month or so but they are waiting for me. I could get them sooner if I could bring myself to selling some equipment I already have that's being put to use filling a closet. Gasp!
> This will be going in my extended cab Ford Ranger. This will definitely be my biggest undertaking. I'm pretty sure this is going to take an electrical upgrade to go along with building the custom enclosure. I just hope I can find the time between work, wife, kids and everything else.
> I will try getting some pics up but I really suck at this. I've got the photobucket but now I can't figure out how to attach from there. I'll figure out eventually! Full disclosure: I finally got myself an email account about a year and a half ago so I'm a little behind on this whole interwebs thing.



Welcome man can't wait to see the build. I have found its easier for me to use a droid tablet or I product (pad, touch, phone) to post with tapatalk and for a few bucks more they make it simple and host-link your photos. 
I understand the wife, kids, work, etc. It can take forever. If I wasn't such a perfectionist I would have stuff done. It's taken a year and a half just to decide on amps and now I'm deciding what mods I'm going to run. I'm really close. I guess I've been spoiled listening, calibrating and tuning others systems way out of my budget my reference level is totally screwed up. 
Glad to have you here!  Glad to help if I can. Look forward to the build. I just hate that I can't hear all off these systems.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

cajunner said:


> there's an amp test of the 50C on youTube,
> 
> Old School Lanzar Opti Drive 50c Ultra High Current Cheater Amp RMS Power Output Test SMD DD-1 - YouTube
> 
> I love the old Lanzar, but it was so expensive back when.
> 
> I imagine the use of ultra-low noise/thd op-amps could only make these bad boys even better.


I saw that I'm just looking forward to it getting its chance at the dyno in Dynamic RMS.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Please tell me someone here got those 2500's. I can't believe I let those slip away. I back of thinking someone could use them more than I. I have too many that need to be brought back to life. But those were clean! 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Yep that video was pretty cool. I find it very interesting that during the test that thing ate up what, 125-140 amps??? Holy crap!!! But during his little bump music it was only sipping around 10 amps. What if you threw in some actual thronging bass tunes? Amazing. Has me really pondering the amperage of my setup of a 200, at least one 160, and maybe a 2050 once complete.

I would also love to see a list of what size fuses to run w/ what amplifier, if it hasn't already been posted and I missed it.

And big +1 to being a poor kid in the 90s but now growing up to this stuff being collectors items for a fraction of the price. 20 years later I'm finally able to live the dream I always did while staring into the stereo store window and drooling all over the glass. I was able to pick up my woofer and 1-2 little 2050's and an X2, all over time back then, and I still have all of it and run some of it today (the rest is on the shelf for now). Now I have a pile of the x4b's and mid basses I always wanted, mid ranges, etc. and several more amps to play w/. All of my vehicles that originally came w/ a radio of any sort will all get a full OS Lanzar system.


----------



## 63flip

I checked out video on 50c bench test. Thanks for the link. Very helpful. Definitely going to need a bigger alternator when I start the instal. My truck doesn't have anything power so it's got a little alternator. 90-95 amps I think.


----------



## 63flip

Finally got my DC15's back from the repair shop. I had to have new dust caps put in them after I scored them off the local CL. The guy I bought them from said,"his daughter pushed them in". It looked more like she "used them as a punching bag". Anywho after a lot of work and a brother-in-law who does graphic design I have a pretty nice logo on them. I found a vintage Lanzar sticker and he modified it to say "DC Series" instead of "Car Audio". The original was impossible to find in a digital quality good enough for the decals plus would have been near impossible to print. 
I'm happy with the way they turned out. Now just waiting to get the install going. Here's a pic.


----------



## SilkySlim

Those turned out nice. 
Mr. Reed nice pickup on the zr my friend.


----------



## 63flip

When I was picking up my DC's I spotted a dusty Lanzar box on the shops shelf. I asked him what it was and he told me to get it down and take a look. Knowing that I'm working on this OS install he told me to make an offer. 
I guess I'm going full on Lanzar now with this set-up. It's an addiction.


----------



## SilkySlim

That is so cool. Those sound great smooth mid an if you have a solid baffle and some air behind them to breath great extension. They like IB or a big enclosure but when they do they get busy. They open up after break in too. The extension is truly impressive. The tweets are a little soft on the top end but detailed and open. They sound good. Look great. It's on the larger oversized side of a 6.5 for sure. Enjoy can't wait to see it all come together.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> When I was picking up my DC's I spotted a dusty Lanzar box on the shops shelf. I asked him what it was and he told me to get it down and take a look. Knowing that I'm working on this OS install he told me to make an offer.
> I guess I'm going full on Lanzar now with this set-up. It's an addiction.
> View attachment 51210


Did you find those at "THE" store?


----------



## 63flip

No, my amps are coming from there. The 50c is almost paid for. I found them when I picked up my DC's. The guy in town who runs Speaker Workshop, speaker/electronics repair, had them sitting on a shelf. I spotted the box and checked them out. Had to buy them! Made an offer and brought them home. Awesome find.


----------



## SilkySlim

Congrats on the full build. Can't wait to see the outcome.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SF49ers

I've been stalking this thread for a while, and decided to finally register. I'm currently in the process of building my system with consists of 2 opti 500's, each bridged running to a Fosgate T2D215, and powered off of a Kinetik 3800. Mids are Lanzar 6.5's and tweeters are Fosgates, dont remember the p/n off the top of my head, they're big though, weigh like 3lbs each. Those will be run off an opti 200 for the mids and an opti 150 for the tweeters as soon as I can find one. Also may end up running an E30 as well. As with most of you guys, I am into the old school Lanzar amps (greyish blue versions) and because I'm Polish, I don't get rid of anything lol. I hoping to hit 155 when it's all completed. Is this an unattainable goal with these components? Also the headunit is a Kenwood, basic nothing fancy, Clarion 73EQ and indash Epicenter with built spl meter.


----------



## 63flip

Welcome SF49ers. I really like hearing about these amps/subs/components being used in a set up. I'm building mine as the budget allows. Getting close. Like you I can't(don't want to)get rid of anything. I'm pulling an 8w7ae and Slash 250/1v2 out of my Ranger to start my Lanzar build and wouldn't dream of selling it. I know it would give me the cash to buy the 2 2050's but I just can't do it. They will be installed in the "Closet of BOOM" with the rest of the gear I'm hoarding.


----------



## 63flip

SilkySlim said:


> Congrats on the full build. Can't wait to see the outcome.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


Thanks!
There will be pics. Hopefully more than 1 thumbnail at a time. I hope to sit down with a friend who knows computers like I know car audio and get this sorted.


----------



## smgreen20

Welcome SF49ers, I saw the post you made at car audio.com
I live 40 minutes away from the guy selling the Opti150 you're inquiring about. Ice often thought of getting it myself as I wouldn't mind a second 150. 

Not to familiar with those subs but sounds feasible.


----------



## SF49ers

smgreen20 said:


> Welcome SF49ers, I saw the post you made at car audio.com
> I live 40 minutes away from the guy selling the Opti150 you're inquiring about. Ice often thought of getting it myself as I wouldn't mind a second 150.
> 
> Not to familiar with those subs but sounds feasible.


I have tried several times to contact him via pm and on his fs thread and nothing other than him saying he was trying to find pics for me. I just assume he's not really commited to selling it. I'm ready to buy one now though if you know of anyone else thats selling one.


----------



## rreed

Crap, haven't been getting email notifications lately, was wondering if everyone went silent. I've also been wondering when the fudge people are doing to start posting pics of their OS Lanzar installs!!! 

Thanks again silky, I did a happy dance in my garage when I opened up the box and tested it working good. Two ZR12's, man I can't wait. Trying to get some other stuff around the place caught up and done so I can get a box built for both of them. I don't know how the fudge I'm going to fit two properly boxed ZR12's in the back of my rig and still have any cargo space at all. :worried: My original '12 and I are sick and tired of it playing in that tiny sealed prefab truck box. 

I was out today going through my scraps of 8 gauge w/ a micrometer to dig up pieces that actually are 8 gauge. Bummer I have a nice long piece of Stinger that isn't. :laugh: JSC power cable FTW, I'll need to get some more ordered up, plus some 4 gauge for main power wire in the old farm truck.


----------



## smgreen20

Wife for me a surprise today. I'm teaching her right. She remembered me talking about the old logo for LANZAR and she grabbed these for me, cheap at $41 shipped. Pics when I get the time later tonight to upload them but they're the MWS6.5's with the old triangular logo. One mounting lip is bent but can be easily corrected.


----------



## SilkySlim

Wow that is very cool. You are training her right. 

It looks like if the weather holds up I will be starting my build I just have to update a couple of amps.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

SF49ers said:


> I've been stalking this thread for a while, and decided to finally register. I'm currently in the process of building my system with consists of 2 opti 500's, each bridged running to a Fosgate T2D215, and powered off of a Kinetik 3800. Mids are Lanzar 6.5's and tweeters are Fosgates, dont remember the p/n off the top of my head, they're big though, weigh like 3lbs each. Those will be run off an opti 200 for the mids and an opti 150 for the tweeters as soon as I can find one. Also may end up running an E30 as well. As with most of you guys, I am into the old school Lanzar amps (greyish blue versions) and because I'm Polish, I don't get rid of anything lol. I hoping to hit 155 when it's all completed. Is this an unattainable goal with these components? Also the headunit is a Kenwood, basic nothing fancy, Clarion 73EQ and indash Epicenter with built spl meter.


Don't know how I missed this. Welcome if you are driving those that hard I would seriously look @ Shawnk or trickyricky for a cap job. Will save you in the long run. Preventive. Can't wait to see the progress. 

This goes for anyone here in the Lanzar community if you need something an amp or something to finish a build just shoot me a PM chances are I'll have it and I'll work with you. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SF49ers

SilkySlim said:


> Don't know how I missed this. Welcome if you are driving those that hard I would seriously look @ Shawnk or trickyricky for a cap job. Will save you in the long run. Preventive. Can't wait to see the progress.
> 
> This goes for anyone here in the Lanzar community if you need something an amp or something to finish a build just shoot me a PM chances are I'll have it and I'll work with you.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


I did get a Stinger SPC5010 cap to help on the 500's. I've never run a cap before and really have mixed reviews on them based off the good ole interwebs, so I'm curious to see what this thing can do. I'm not terribly worried about lack of power in my system as I have a 3800 just for the 500's, and a SPV20 for the 200 and (hopefully soon to own, 150), and if that's not enough I have 2 other batteries that run the hydraulic suspension I have I always can tap into.


----------



## rreed

That I can tell, the only people who poo-poo running a capacitor are the ones who've never ran one. I do and it does help stabilize my system and make it more consistent (enter the "well then your big three just isn't good enough then!!!" arguments) even back when I was just running two 2050's. I'm a believer through experience and will always run one.


----------



## rreed

At that, I think silky is talking about all the little capacitors inside your amplifier on the circuit board.


----------



## SilkySlim

Yes that is what I was talking about. The caps inside the amp. Preventive. If one let's go it can cause a chain reaction and cause much more damage to the board. That is a much more involved repair if it can be. If you are trying to hit those large numbers you will be placing more demand on it. It's not as much to just get a cap job. 
For example I had Zeus and ran it for almost 2 yrs. Looked and sounded great. Opened it before I let my buddy more of a heavy SPL guy and it looked clean but one cap looked suspect. I told him let's send it to Tricky and freshen up the caps. He drove it hard it never quit but the cap let go and ended up blowing the power supply. Could have been much worse but most likely wouldn't have happened had it been replaced.
That being said I run a couple of original 160, 200, 2200, 500's pretty hard for the past year or two with no problems. I will be do cap jobs to all the amps I plan on running and possibly competing with again. If I can get the time of I can't my guys Shawnk and trickyricky will be busy.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

How could I forget, yet I almost did. Here are the pics of the mids my wife got me.




























Here's the only down side to these. Easily fixable and still play.


----------



## Koke00

can anyone tell me anything about this amp...i think this may have been before the opti amps...its from late 80's early 90's..i cannot find anything on this amp


----------



## rreed

Sweet score, greenie!! My wife would be getting some extra special lovin for a while if she surprised me w/ a set of those, bent frame or not. So how do you repair that? My ZR15 has a similar though not quite as bad bend in it.

I have the same set, though your box is in far better shape than mine, and you got the sticker! I need to look though, mine might be the cursive logo. Same back sticker though, and 150 watt box/100 watt driver discrepancy. They're heavy little bas*ards and thump hard when the power is poured on. Very excellent mid-basses that are exactly that. You won't hear any mid-range out of them at all to speak of.


----------



## SilkySlim

Great find wow that's an oldie. May be the first series. Competition version of the sorry brain fart _______ series. They were black and red. Help me Mr. Green. Power series? They weren't as tall as the opti's they looked like that shape but I remember black with the logo like Mr. Greens new 6.5s in red. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## bkjay

Koke00 said:


> can anyone tell me anything about this amp...i think this may have been before the opti amps...its from late 80's early 90's..i cannot find anything on this amp
> View attachment 51442


Yup these were before the Opti's. I think someone said they were made by PPI for Lanzer. Please forgive me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Koke00

is there any way to find the specs on this ?


----------



## smgreen20

Do a LANZAR search here at this site. Someone posted lit about it/them. Maybe try PPI and LANZAR in the search at the same time.


----------



## SilkySlim

Koke00 said:


> can anyone tell me anything about this amp...i think this may have been before the opti amps...its from late 80's early 90's..i cannot find anything on this amp
> View attachment 51442


I think it was the same time and chassis as the brute force series. Don't know if it was PPI but if it was would be like their promos series.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Think I have a plan for a box for my two ZR12's... Can't wait, should clean up my cargo area nicely and not have a big pile of crap there any more!!! :laugh:


----------



## SilkySlim

Yea buddy do share.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

Finally brought this monster home. One step closer to having everything for the build.


----------



## 63flip

Hopefully this time it works. If not back to thumbnails.


----------



## 63flip

Ok here it is.


----------



## Buickmike

Ampman said:


> Something else forgot to mention while looking for bad solder joints check to see if there are joints that appear they've got hot and also resistors that are starting to turn black, if there's a electrolytic capacitor in the circuit with the resistor getting hot check those caps and transistors or diodes associated with it there could be one or more of those devises mentioned leaking


So bringing this back from the dead lol. I gave up and put the 100 off to the side. Yesterday I went back to it and checked the output transistors again. Found a bad solder joint. That one was my fault and I corrected it. No more DC blip before going into protection but it still was going into it. Then I decided to follow the lead backwards from the red LED and saw it tied into the thermistor. I tested it before and resistance went up with heat, but I never checked to see if it was in the correct range or not since I did not know what it was. So I checked the resistance off my 50 and noticed that it was significantly lower...around 80 ohms. I put an 80 ohm resistor across the thermistor and tested. It works perfect now!!!!! I spent a couple hours trying to match up the numbers on the thermistor. For now I gave up and replaced it with a resistor. If I come across the right part I will put it back in, but for now I have my amp back and I'm a happy camper. Not really worried about the thermal protection anyway. It never worked right back in the day on this amp. I literally melted the large diodes out of it one time. That was after running it at 2 ohms to 2 12's for about 30 minutes straight. I'm going to run it at proper load and not worry about it.


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr. Reed when are we going to see your ZR build can't wait.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Me neither!! Sorry been busy lately and will continue to be. I'm having to do this baby steps at a time, mostly in the parking lot at work on my lunch hour. :toilet:

Anyways, back in the day I had my one ZR12 in a large box (1.78 cu. ft. if I remember) in the cargo area of my hooptie; all of the right-hand side of the area. Woofer was facing sideways. Took up most of the space w/ the spare tire back there so I wasn't sure how the heck two of them were going to fit then idiocy gave way to two eyes and common sense, a wide low-profile box that will fill the entire cargo area, becoming the new raised "floor," so to speak. Woofers will fire backwards into the door, about 4" or so away (because of 4" ports).

Currently my old '12 is in one of those cheapy, small, pre-fab sealed truck boxes (and it HATES it) so I've been able to experiment w/ SQ moving the box around to see what sounds best, loudest, most accurate, etc. I wish I'd found a long time ago that firing them into the back door produces (for me) best results! Big heavy thunderous bass, musical accuracy, it's great!

So anyways, my woofer box will fill the cargo area floor (minus spare tire, ugh), and be just tall enough to accommodate the space they'll need. I need to run the specs through a handful of box apps to see what they need, it was circa 1996 that I came up w/ 1.78 cu. ft. and 4" port tuned I think to around 35 Hz (I prefer low bass over the higher stuff). Woofers and ports firing into the back door. Nothing fancy or special, it'll be painted to match interior colors for "stealth."

At the moment I'm working on my fronts and doors. Trying to find a good home for my tweeters (again, those $18 new DCT Pro's are sweet for the money!!) up front, and hopefully today will be mocking up adapter covers/baffles to put my old orange/triangle logo MD4's in the front doors and MWS 6.5's in the back doors.


----------



## smgreen20

Here's what the owners manual has for box specs. 
ZR12-4 
Box cf....... Port length, tuned to. all ports are 4" dia
1.33 cf, 9.3, 45Hz
1.9 cf, 7.8, 40Hz
2.8 cf, 6.4, 35Hz

ZR12-8
1.66 cf, 6.8, 45Hz 
2.33 cf, 5.7, 40Hz 
3.5 cf, 4.5, 35Hz


----------



## rreed

Sweet, thanks greenie. What year is your manual? Mine came w/ my woofer (bought new in 1996 and dated the same, I think) but I recall having different specs. I don't have it in front of me right now but will dig it up soon as I can.

I think I came up w/ 1.78 using T/S parameters and several different box apps at the time, again circa 1996 so this is also going by what humans understood of box building at the time. It worked well and I was quite happy w/ it, it seemed to run the full gamut of bass from 90 Hz (low-passed) all the way down to 20 w/o issue. That's not to say it was "perfect" in reality, just that it was what was understood at the time and it worked well for me. Now that we've all come a long way in the past 20 years, I'll be revisiting from scratch.


----------



## smgreen20

Np, tats what we're all here for. The manual is from 94.


----------



## rreed

Awesome, 10-4. Did your manual indicate orange surrounds? My '96 is from the black surround era and they are different; the orange ones are very thin and soft while the black ones are thicker and stiffer. They also last where at least my BNIB ZR10 turned to dust the first time I fired it up.  Anyways, I'm wondering what all other differences (spec-wise) there were from 94-96. I'll see if I can dig up mine, I'm now wondering where the fudge I might have put it...


----------



## smgreen20

Black surrounds. I didn't get into LANZAR until just as the Black surrounds came out. This is the manual that came with the two LP12-8's I bought back then.


----------



## rreed

Whenever I can dig out my manual maybe we can post up our t/s parameters and see what all is different. I'd like to build about as "correct" box for them as I can.


----------



## smgreen20

There really isn't any "correct" box. It's just what you want and how much space you're willing to give up.


----------



## rreed

Yeppers, hence the quotes.   I'll be looking for around 35 Hz, and about as much space sacrificed as it'll take w/in reason. I forget what the Fs of these things was, I seem to recall it being pretty low or around 35 Hz anyways. I've always had pretty good luck building good sounding boxes tuning around the woofer's Fs, whether that's "right" or "wrong," it's just worked out well for me in the past.


----------



## Kiki-69

I have a similar style amp but it's the Lanzar 240-4 channel amp. Do you happen to have the install manual or wiring schematics for the one you have? If so would you mind e-mailing me them? It would alleviate a lot of headaches.


----------



## smgreen20

Your 240 is far from what this thread ideas in reference to but... I'm not sure if this helps, off to the right it says download


Lanzar - VIBE240 - 600 Watt 2 Channel MOSFET Amplifier


----------



## rreed

Does anyone have a pic (or pics) of the 160 x-over DIP switch settings to post up please? I have a couple manuals but they're buried at home somewhere right now. I'm fixing to go out and bypass my x4b to go straight to the amp to trouble shoot some stuff. I want to make sure my 160's x-over settings aren't interfering/part of the issue.


----------



## smgreen20

I believe I posted it a few pages back in this thread. I didn't scan/paste but I typed it manually.


----------



## rreed

Aw poop, I just went through the entire thread looking for pics before I posted! Haha I'll try searching then. Thanks greenie.


----------



## rreed

Aaaaaand that was easy: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/old-school-car-audio-discussion/108895-old-school-lanzar-opti-lovers-6.html#post1796344 :laugh: Thanks again greenie. I need to revisit my amp x-over settings and tinker w/ some stuff. Need to do a lot of things, really.


----------



## smgreen20

Glad you found it. I started looking for it, but I went backwards from the most recent page and quit around page 10. I didn't think it was that long ago....


----------



## 63flip

I'm getting ready to design my enclosure and amp rack for my OS Lanzar build and have a question about cooling. I'm going to be running 2 2050's on component sets @ 4ohm stereo and my 50c on 2 dc15-4 @ 2ohm mono. I know I won't be pushing my amps real hard but I still plan on running fans. 
I plan on mounting the amps in a row with the 50c in the middle. I think I'm going to be mounting them across the top of the enclosure. Now my question is about fan placement for optimum cooling. I plan on running 2 fans one pushing and the other pulling at the ends of the amps. Would it be better to run the fans under the amps leaving a couple inches for air movement? My other thought is to mount the amps inset and leave air space around and even under them for air movement. Any input would be helpful. I'm getting close to having everything for this build and plan on starting it soon. Building the enclosure, sound deadener, and electrical will all be starting shortly now that the weather is finally starting to warm up.


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok guys so many have told me that these opti's can handle 2ohm mono or 1ohm stereo. 
So while my build is going on I decide to stick in a temp system something easily removable for build progress. I have a 10" 2ohm driver in a very simple box and so I stuck a 160Q in and ran rear channels 2ohm mono and fronts 4 ohm stereo thinking it should be fine. Nope after playing it drops in and out doesn't go into protect just shuts down then comes back on. I will troubleshoot more tomorrow but it's not looking like its happy @ 2 ohm mono. Just played for less then 10 min. and never got hot. 
Disclaimer I bought this 160Q and it had a bad PS off of EvilBay. I sent to Zed and Stephen rebuilt the P.S many months ago. I tested it out and everything appeared normal on the bench but this is the most demanding action it's seen.


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> I'm getting ready to design my enclosure and amp rack for my OS Lanzar build and have a question about cooling. I'm going to be running 2 2050's on component sets @ 4ohm stereo and my 50c on 2 dc15-4 @ 2ohm mono. I know I won't be pushing my amps real hard but I still plan on running fans.
> 
> 
> That is a super comfortable load for those amps. If you give them good input voltage they should be great. Lanzar Opti's still lean to the warm/hot side of A/B though.
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on mounting the amps in a row with the 50c in the middle. I think I'm going to be mounting them across the top of the enclosure. Now my question is about fan placement for optimum cooling. I plan on running 2 fans one pushing and the other pulling at the ends of the amps. Would it be better to run the fans under the amps leaving a couple inches for air movement? My other thought is to mount the amps inset and leave air space around and even under them for air movement. Any input would be helpful. I'm getting close to having everything for this build and plan on starting it soon. Building the enclosure, sound deadener, and electrical will all be starting shortly now that the weather is finally starting to warm up.


Can't wait to see it. You will be very happy.  That should be a great setup. The heat is mainly on the the top/aluminum grill best to focus air movement there. if you have seen the inside forced air cooling on the 50c it cools the slight air gap and main grill area. :idea: Highly effective I might add. so if you can create that push-pull air movement across the top outside the amp and keep cool air around the amp you will do it justice and never have a problem.


----------



## SilkySlim

Oh and good luck Flip I hope everything goes smooth!

Also hows the build?


----------



## smgreen20

Sorry to hear that silkyslim. I'm currently running my 500 at 2 ohms mono, no issues. I would like to think thatthe 4ch amps would be OK too. 
The amp that really surprised me was my clarion APA4160. Bridged chs 3 and4 to 2 ohms, zero issues and I feel bad because I abused that amp. Still have it today, 100% in shape/performance.


----------



## 63flip

Thanks for the input SilkySlim. I think I'm going to mount them inset leaving air space around and under for air movement from the fans. They should also get some across the top of the heat sink too. 

As far as the electrical Its definitely getting an upgrade. My Ranger has a stock alternator around 85 amps, nothing is power. I've already started looking into prices on a 250 amp alternator. That should do the trick. The manuals for these amps say the 50c draws 120 amps and the 2050's draw 20 amps each. Add that with a wiring upgrade and a good battery(currently a diehard gold to be replaced with an optima)I should be able to feed the beast. 

Just picked up my crossover last week. Only thing left to pay for are the 2050's. Hopefully only a couple more weeks! Getting very close.


----------



## rreed

I run my '160 4-ohm mono rear and 2-ohm stereo front and after some moderate pushing (depending on who you ask) you can iron a shirt w/ it. Enter the "dial your gains, stupid!" arguments. It runs fine for at least an hour at a time (no road trips pushing it yet) but does get hot. I can't imagine they would tolerate any less of a load. I've often wondered if Lanzar sort of over did it w/ the 160's because at the black amp change they only did 4100's and 4150's - no 4160's.

Speaking of gains, I've been reading up a bit how to do it recently (volt meters, test tones, osciliscopes, etc.). How are you guys setting your gains? I came from the old school; turn up the HU until it distorts w/ your favorite music, back off just until it's clear, then repeat w/ the amp gains. Occasionally tweek as needed. Nowadays you're supposed to use test tones and electrical test equipment??


----------



## smgreen20

Rreed, you're doing it fine. There's nothing wrong with setting your gains the way you describe, some even prefer it that way. 

I set the gains on the amps themselves at 1/3. Tests have shown that this is where their (Opti's ) nose floor is the best, then use the DMM method adjusting the output gains on the line driver to defined output. Once that is done, then I make final adjustments to blend on the line divers gains.


----------



## rreed

By line drivers do you mean x-overs or whatever other processors? I'm currently plugged straight into the amplifier (like Marshall circa 1983!! Haha) since my hu has built in x-overs and stuff. Currentlyim not yhrilled w the results of test tone gain settings so i'll probabaly grab my tool (haha!) and bass cd's and do it the old fashioned way.


----------



## 63flip

I've always done it by ear. Keep it simple.


----------



## smgreen20

Yes, the audio control DQS has built in line driver and that is what I use.


----------



## SilkySlim

I don't know how I've missed these tapatalk is failing me!! 
So update to the whole 2 ohm mono thing. It was a rated 2 ohm Morel Ultimo SC but I ohmed it out and it tested closer to 1.2. So yea a little much for that sounded great but just when you would get it going it would shut down. Way to low so probably is fine in 2+ ohm. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

My build had made a major leap forward!!   thanks to a few sleepless nights and help from my build group.!! 


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

A few pics.





























Just a little amp Old School porn before I got started. I have to admit it sounds great. I opted to run the 50c in 1 ohm mono. With the thought that if I need more power I would drop 2 2500's in 2ohm mono. May do it for giggles but 50C is doing a mighty fine job. I drove the absolute crap out of it for 13 hrs straight and no problems. Thanks to Shawn K for the cap upgrade on the beast. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

I've noticed sometimes the board will email me updates, sometimes it won't, so when I've also disappeared for a while it's probably because I didn't know folks were still talking. I guess I should look into the phone app for this thing, or whatever.

Mine has kind of stalled for now, I've been getting hip to the modern way of setting gains (but will probably stick w/ the old method of turn it up until it distorts and back it off until it doesn't), and figuring out how to get better sound quality out of iTurds/iPoods - or just scan the ebays for a CD changer and once again stick w/ what works. Hey, talk about old school!!

@Silky, like I said I'm running mine 4-ohm mono rear and 2-ohm stereo front and I'm pretty sure NASA heat sensing satellites follow me everywhere I go. I can't imagine how the heck you're running yours 2-ohm mono but hey, y'all are the sages and I'm kind of an apprentice here. I'm kind of chicken-poop about coloring outside the lines of my stereo stuff though anyways. You guys go ahead.


----------



## rreed

Hey Silky is that fuse holder bolted to the side of your engine? Any concerns about the heat turning the plastic brittle and it crumbling apart like mine did back in the 90's?  Is that AGU, mini-ANL, ?


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> I've noticed sometimes the board will email me updates, sometimes it won't, so when I've also disappeared for a while it's probably because I didn't know folks were still talking. I guess I should look into the phone app for this thing, or whatever.
> 
> Mine has kind of stalled for now, I've been getting hip to the modern way of setting gains (but will probably stick w/ the old method of turn it up until it distorts and back it off until it doesn't), and figuring out how to get better sound quality out of iTurds/iPoods - or just scan the ebays for a CD changer and once again stick w/ what works. Hey, talk about old school!!
> 
> @Silky, like I said I'm running mine 4-ohm mono rear and 2-ohm stereo front and I'm pretty sure NASA heat sensing satellites follow me everywhere I go. I can't imagine how the heck you're running yours 2-ohm mono but hey, y'all are the sages and I'm kind of an apprentice here. I'm kind of chicken-poop about coloring outside the lines of my stereo stuff though anyways. You guys go ahead.


LOL I was chicken poop too main from back in the HiFonics series vi and seven. They did not like lower than 4 mono or 2 stereo. The amps were so expensive and I saw many fry. I was never a big proponent of it either SQ wise. These Lanzar's are tough as nails and like it. But they can produce the heat. I have found that running a line driver or really good high voltage deck will help keep the gains down and does help considerably. It is a good thing they have such large heat sinks!!! 


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> Hey Silky is that fuse holder bolted to the side of your engine? Any concerns about the heat turning the plastic brittle and it crumbling apart like mine did back in the 90's?  Is that AGU, mini-ANL, ?


It's a humongous ANL and it's mounted to a bracket that then mounts to another bracket that mount to the intake. It's on the opposite side from the exhaust and is for the alt output. It's a 270 amp alt. So I had to reinforce the factory wiring.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

Seems like I get some updates and not others too. 
My build changed a little bit. I made an offer on that 6200 that had been on evilbay and won it so it'll be replacing the 2 2050's I planned to buy. I'm going to start this install tomorrow beginning with the removal of the amp and sub in my truck now and removing the fold down seats in the x-cab. After I get all the measurements for the enclosure I may get started on sound deadening if I've got the time. 

Looking good on your instal there Silky. If I get at I won't be far behind ya!


----------



## smgreen20

Pics of the progress as it unfolds if you will please.

I've decided on my reinstall too. Opti150 on the Seas tweeters, Opti200 on the Silver Flute 6 1/2" mids and an Opti200 bridged to two LANZAR LP10s in a ported box.


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> Seems like I get some updates and not others too.
> My build changed a little bit. I made an offer on that 6200 that had been on evilbay and won it so it'll be replacing the 2 2050's I planned to buy. I'm going to start this install tomorrow beginning with the removal of the amp and sub in my truck now and removing the fold down seats in the x-cab. After I get all the measurements for the enclosure I may get started on sound deadening if I've got the time.
> 
> Looking good on your instal there Silky. If I get at I won't be far behind ya!


Man that is awesome I'm glad someone in the family got it!! Can't wait to see the progress.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

I want to know who got the TWO (2) sets of BNIB MWS 6.5's for a reasonable deal the other day. I was going to go for it but they were right at my spare change as listed, and quickly went out of range there toward the end. Boy howdy three sets of MWS 6.5's would go great w/ my three sets of MD4's.

Having ears clogged up and realizing that iTurds stock settings and MP3's really suck I've been extremely unmotivated lately. I'm focusing more on picking up a 12 disc CD changer for my rig(s) right now. And getting my ears cleaned out.


----------



## vwguy383

Hey slikyslim, is there a big difference other then appearance between the purplish and black optis? Is it kind of how the old ppi art were with the .2's with some power supplies up grades and stuff? I have always like lanzar opti's and have always wanted to even find some beat up ones and custom finish them.

Thanks
Justin


----------



## rreed

I've A/B'ed the two eras in x-overs (x2 and x4b), it seems like the old gray/blue/purple are a little firmer, kick a little sharper, maybe a little more "brash" while the blacks are warmer, smoother, more "laid back." I know that helps a lot. The difference is subtle but there if you listen closely enough. It's not a massive night and day difference but at least a litt.e I noticed the same when I went from one of my 2050's running my ZR12 to a 160; seems like I lost a little deep warmth for some tighter kick and punch. Same thing for the highs going from another 2050 to the front channel of my 160, seems like I traded a bit of warm depth for a more lively sound. It's been a while and I've been meaning to revisit. The sages will probably weigh in w/ better info but that has been my experience.


----------



## 63flip

It has finally begun. I got the fold down jump seats removed from the back of my Ranger today. I'm glad the the space really opened up after they were removed. I was a little worried about getting those dc15's back there in a large enough enclosure. Got the space measured so I can sketch out the design. 
I would have bought my alternator but a pair of 12" Cerwin Vega Strokers joined my private stock last week. The addiction strikes again!
Also installed my Alpine cda-7844 today.


----------



## smgreen20

There is very little difference between the two. Sonically there shouldn't be much. TMS was the biggest jump in the revisions and very little else since.


----------



## SilkySlim

vwguy383 said:


> Hey slikyslim, is there a big difference other then appearance between the purplish and black optis? Is it kind of how the old ppi art were with the .2's with some power supplies up grades and stuff? I have always like lanzar opti's and have always wanted to even find some beat up ones and custom finish them.
> 
> Thanks
> Justin


It's funny you say that because I used to compete and I started right when the Arts were released so they talked me into using those instead of the PM series. Mine were one of the first shipments of arts. I had a problem 5yrs later and they upgraded the PS to the .2/pc. It was stronger on the low end I thought.
On to the opti's the black and gold series. I have heard that the very last year and a half they were produced they were assembled by the buy out company. They used cheaper parts. So not all were consistent. I have noticed that on the guts. I have noticed a little more detail on the high end but they still retain their warmth between the blue/Gray. The differences are very very subtle. If you inspect the guts you will just find a different supplier of parts components caps etc.
I have been shocked that there was any difference. Now that said the bigger difference is by modding either one and upgrading to the better and tighter tolerance components. I know I'm scraping a chalkboard to the Opti purists. They used op amps that are now known as one of the failed attempts at an audio of the time. They were hyped up when these were in production and were used on many higher end amps. 
Upgrading the op amps and input caps with Elena. While you are at it replace the power supply caps and you'll have an amazing amp for another 20-30yrs.
One thing that I can say with authority the opti's on bass are on a completely different level. I have not heard an amp that can reach down and give the impact in the lower octaves the way that these opti's do. New old what ever. I have just a/b them against many many amps and it is crazy the difference. It seems flat out no EQ they play well over an octave lower. I just AB it against a Zed monster and the 50c just out performed it on subs. The low end extension just wasn't there. I feel like this is a major contributor to their warm sound.




Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Silky and greenie are right, the difference(s) is/are very subtle. And I would agree that the blacks' consistency might have been a bit off, though I can't sign an affidavit. I bought one of my 2050's from a fly by night stereo sales circus that blew threw town once, it was listed as a refurb but was $89 at the time while they were still new (circa 1996) and went for what, $300 or so?. I took it straight home and tested it good and ran it happily but later on when I bought two more BNIB 2050's and A/B'ed them against my "refurb," it had a reasonably noticeable deeper/stronger low end so I labeled it subwoofer amp and always kept it on my ZR12. My two other NIB 2050's sound exactly the same and I ran them to my fronts. I should pull the covers of the refurb and compare to my stockers.

And yes, that's probably about my biggest love of old school Lanzar, is that it can easily and comfortably reach DEEP. 30Hz is my bass g-spot and my buddies and I always got a kick out of watching our woofers silently flop around playing 20Hz and even 10Hz(!!!) bass. Like their sales flyers said, built for people who love rich, warm bass.


----------



## SilkySlim

This looks fun!!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Flip, have you investigated high-amp stock replacements from another Ford from a junk yard to save you some $$$ on power? I didn't catch what all amplifiers you're going to run but for instance my old farm truck runs the old 65-amp 10SI AC Delco alternator. I've swapped it for a 140-amp CS144 from a Cadillac (also Delco) for $40. I won't be running more than maybe two of my 2050's or one of my 160's so it'll be more than enough to run what I brung and didn't cost $400+, plus if it craps itself on me I can get another one for about the same price from the local pick and pull. In my '96 Grand Cherokee I can replace (and plan to, when I get around to it) its stock 117-amp alternator w/ a 160-amp from a ~2001 Dodge Durango. I'm not sure if it will be quite enough to power a 200, 160, and 2050 (all 4-ohm stereo) but hopefully after I upgrade the battery and throw a massive capacitor (no laughing please) it might help. Better than its current amperage! I can get a junk yard Durango alternator off the 'bay for around $30-$60 shipped to my door. Might be an option for you, but of course it you're going to run a bank of 500's or 50C's in 1/4-ohm configuration you might have to get out your check book.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> Flip, have you investigated high-amp stock replacements from another Ford from a junk yard to save you some $$$ on power? I didn't catch what all amplifiers you're going to run but for instance my old farm truck runs the old 65-amp 10SI AC Delco alternator. I've swapped it for a 140-amp CS144 from a Cadillac (also Delco) for $40. I won't be running more than maybe two of my 2050's or one of my 160's so it'll be more than enough to run what I brung and didn't cost $400+, plus if it craps itself on me I can get another one for about the same price from the local pick and pull. In my '96 Grand Cherokee I can replace (and plan to, when I get around to it) its stock 117-amp alternator w/ a 160-amp from a ~2001 Dodge Durango. I'm not sure if it will be quite enough to power a 200, 160, and 2050 (all 4-ohm stereo) but hopefully after I upgrade the battery and throw a massive capacitor (no laughing please) it might help. Better than its current amperage! I can get a junk yard Durango alternator off the 'bay for around $30-$60 shipped to my door. Might be an option for you, but of course it you're going to run a bank of 500's or 50C's in 1/4-ohm configuration you might have to get out your check book.


Good idea!! You should be fine!!!! With that for music. Assdouche is running a 160amp in his Accord and he's running a 50C 2 ohm mono on 2 12's, a 150 4 ohm mono on 2 8", 150 4 ohm stereo on a pair of DC 6 1/2's, and another 150 6 ohm stereo on 4"/1"tweeter pods. His is under no stress. Solid voltage from a crappy eBay alt, and he has a weak old optima battery when he drops in the good kinetic. He'll be solid.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Pics coming soon.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> Flip, have you investigated high-amp stock replacements from another Ford from a junk yard to save you some $$$ on power? I didn't catch what all amplifiers you're going to run but for instance my old farm truck runs the old 65-amp 10SI AC Delco alternator. I've swapped it for a 140-amp CS144 from a Cadillac (also Delco) for $40. I won't be running more than maybe two of my 2050's or one of my 160's so it'll be more than enough to run what I brung and didn't cost $400+, plus if it craps itself on me I can get another one for about the same price from the local pick and pull. In my '96 Grand Cherokee I can replace (and plan to, when I get around to it) its stock 117-amp alternator w/ a 160-amp from a ~2001 Dodge Durango. I'm not sure if it will be quite enough to power a 200, 160, and 2050 (all 4-ohm stereo) but hopefully after I upgrade the battery and throw a massive capacitor (no laughing please) it might help. Better than its current amperage! I can get a junk yard Durango alternator off the 'bay for around $30-$60 shipped to my door. Might be an option for you, but of course it you're going to run a bank of 500's or 50C's in 1/4-ohm configuration you might have to get out your check book.


 Thanks for the tip. I honestly hadn't thought about one from another Ford. I was only thinking about a Ranger and none of them have a lot of electronics or power options. 
I'm going to be running a 50c and 6200. The 50c pulls 120 amps. I don't have the manual on the 6200 but it probably pulls 40-60 amps. I'm going to run the 50c at 2ohm mono on a pair of dc15's and the 6200 at 4 ohm stereo. Right now on 2 component sets until I source another pair of mid bass woofers. I doubt they will be pulling that many amps running at that level on music. 
I buying a Optima yellow top in the next week or so. I don't know which alternators will drop in but it would definitely be worth looking into. I'm sure they could tell me at the junk yard or a little research on my part will turn something up.


----------



## vwguy383

SilkySlim said:


> It's funny you say that because I used to compete and I started right when the Arts were released so they talked me into using those instead of the PM series. Mine were one of the first shipments of arts. I had a problem 5yrs later and they upgraded the PS to the .2/pc. It was stronger on the low end I thought.
> On to the opti's the black and gold series. I have heard that the very last year and a half they were produced they were assembled by the buy out company. They used cheaper parts. So not all were consistent. I have noticed that on the guts. I have noticed a little more detail on the high end but they still retain their warmth between the blue/Gray. The differences are very very subtle. If you inspect the guts you will just find a different supplier of parts components caps etc.
> I have been shocked that there was any difference. Now that said the bigger difference is by modding either one and upgrading to the better and tighter tolerance components. I know I'm scraping a chalkboard to the Opti purists. They used op amps that are now known as one of the failed attempts at an audio of the time. They were hyped up when these were in production and were used on many higher end amps.
> Upgrading the op amps and input caps with Elena. While you are at it replace the power supply caps and you'll have an amazing amp for another 20-30yrs.
> One thing that I can say with authority the opti's on bass are on a completely different level. I have not heard an amp that can reach down and give the impact in the lower octaves the way that these opti's do. New old what ever. I have just a/b them against many many amps and it is crazy the difference. It seems flat out no EQ they play well over an octave lower. I just AB it against a Zed monster and the 50c just out performed it on subs. The low end extension just wasn't there. I feel like this is a major contributor to their warm sound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk



Hey thanks guys for the replys. Can you guys tell me kind of what order the models came in after the white ones. I have seen the opti drive, opti drive plus in the grey/purplish ones, and then the black ones. Mr.green said something about a TMS revisions? What is that and when did it happen?

Thanks
Justin


----------



## smgreen20

When you say white ones, are you referring to the LXR line? 



TMS came after the plus and was the last revision for the bluish color, followed by the color change andthe final revision of the boards with CPS. I don't recall of hand what CPS stood for. I'll have to look it up.


----------



## The Dude

smgreen20 said:


> When you say white ones, are you referring to the LXR line?
> 
> 
> 
> TMS came after the plus and was the last revision for the bluish color, followed by the color change andthe final revision of the boards with CPS. I don't recall of hand what CPS stood for. I'll have to look it up.


Competition Performance Series http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/54762/page/694


----------



## smgreen20

Thank you dude.


----------



## rreed

If it's a new Optima I would pass. They shipped their production to Mexico a few years back and have had severe quality issues ever since. My old 'Merican made yellow tops lasted for 15 years each of heavy winching and bumping stereo until I left the CB on in one rig for a couple weeks while it was parked and it killed a couple cells in it. The other I killed in a similar accidental fashion in another rig. My old Grand Wagoneer had a brand new hecho en Mexico red top that was problematic and wouldn't hold a charge or start the engine out of the box. No local Optima shop would warranty it w/o a receipt.  I'm an old Jeep guy and we're quite familiar w/ Optima batteries. A lot of folks are reporting a lot of issues w/ the new ones. Very disappointing nowadays. Investigate an Odyssey or Die Hard Platinum please, I'll probably do an Odyssey once a little fundage opens up.

Just google "<your year model> Ford Ranger alternator upgrades" and you should come up w/ some options. I would guess maybe Taurus or Mystique (mmm Jennifer Lawrence) since they have electric fans but I dunno, I'm not a F*rd guy. Google is your friend. 

I would really love to have a chart of Lanzar amp amperage @ ohms chart, including proper fusing. :mean:


----------



## The Dude

May not have full specs, but here is a snapshot of Lanzar.com from 1997. http://web.archive.org/web/19970401070115/http://www.lanzar.com/ If you are up on your Russian, this has fuse ratings: http://www.bcae1.com/temp/Optidrive owner's manual in russian.pdf


----------



## SilkySlim

Agreed the new optima batteries suck!!!!! The DH platinums are good. I have had good luck with my kinetik too.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> Thanks for the tip. I honestly hadn't thought about one from another Ford. I was only thinking about a Ranger and none of them have a lot of electronics or power options.
> I'm going to be running a 50c and 6200. The 50c pulls 120 amps. I don't have the manual on the 6200 but it probably pulls 40-60 amps. I'm going to run the 50c at 2ohm mono on a pair of dc15's and the 6200 at 4 ohm stereo. Right now on 2 component sets until I source another pair of mid bass woofers. I doubt they will be pulling that many amps running at that level on music.
> I buying a Optima yellow top in the next week or so. I don't know which alternators will drop in but it would definitely be worth looking into. I'm sure they could tell me at the junk yard or a little research on my part will turn something up.


Go die hard platinum at least not optima!!!!
I'm running a 50c in a 1 ohm mono on 2 monster 15's and haven't pulled over 100 amps even goofing around on turn down for what. @ windshield it was hitting 154.9. Invest in a support battery close to the amp. Ebay has the kinetik 600 for $60 shipped. The alternator has trouble adjusting output fast enough for demand. Doubt you'll ever pull more than 40 amps peak off the 6200 ever. I also always recommend all the alt you can afford. That said you'll be fine with a 140+ especially as a daily driver with music.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## vwguy383

smgreen20 said:


> When you say white ones, are you referring to the LXR line?
> 
> 
> 
> TMS came after the plus and was the last revision for the bluish color, followed by the color change andthe final revision of the boards with CPS. I don't recall of hand what CPS stood for. I'll have to look it up.


Yeah that's what I meant. After the LXR series. I always thought they came only in white, then I was pushing though this thread and saw some that were black. So the line that started after the LXR series went like this. Opti, opti plus, opti TPS, then the black opti CPS? What about the ones with the Q? What was special about those ones?

Thanks guys
Justin


----------



## smgreen20

That is correct, though you have TPS, should be TMS. 
The Q simply stands for quad, or for their 4ch amps.
100Q, 25 x 4, later to become the 4100
160Q, 40 x 4, later to become the 4150


----------



## vwguy383

smgreen20 said:


> That is correct, though you have TPS, should be TMS.
> The Q simply stands for quad, or for their 4ch amps.
> 100Q, 25 x 4, later to become the 4100
> 160Q, 40 x 4, later to become the 4150


Ok, cool thanks for the info. Now im on the hunt!

Its got to be cheap and beat up cause I really dont need them. I just have always liked lanzar amps and subs.

Thanks again
Justin


----------



## 63flip

I didn't know Optima quality had gone down hill like that. Looks like I'll be getting the Die-Hard. I've used them b-4 and always had good luck. Ran a JL Slash 500/1 and 300/4 in my old Blazer with a Die-Hard and stock alternator for years without problems. Guess I'll stick with what works. 
As for a second battery I don't know where the heck I can put it. Already mounting the jack and handle under the passenger seat. Can the Kinetics lay on there side? If so maybe I can mount one under the driver seat. If not I would have to build something into the enclosure. Guess I can figure out something, that's part of the fun!


----------



## smgreen20

Yes, you can mount a Kinetic anyway you want.


----------



## SilkySlim

Yes and you would be surprised how many places you can get those little 600's to fit. Mine fit in the stock rear 5 1/4" speaker locations on my rear deck with standard height rear deck panel.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## RFOneWatt

Great to find this thread. I've got a bit of Lanzar equipment from the 90's in storage that needs a once over.

It might be time to upgrade the systems in the family vehicles -- old school style. 

Lots of very informative posts about the history of Lanzar.. 

Keep up the great work!

-RF


----------



## smgreen20

And please, post pics of what you have. We always love to see them.


----------



## SilkySlim

We'lllcome. Can't wait to see. Let us know. Share pics

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## RFOneWatt

smgreen20 said:


> And please, post pics of what you have. We always love to see them.


I most certainly will as soon as I can get my post count up. 

It won't let me attach links to vids/pics yet.

Well, not a video - let's try an image. If it lets me I'll get some pics/vids together.

-RF


----------



## smgreen20

Oohh, nice 6x9's. Haven't heard any LANZAR 6x9's, would love to.


----------



## RFOneWatt

smgreen20 said:


> Oohh, nice 6x9's. Haven't heard any LANZAR 6x9's, would love to.


I honestly can't remember what they sound like but I do remember that they could take a beating. 

I had a 1993 Thunderbird Super Coupe that had a pair in the back but that was just for rear fill. I don't remember if they sounded better than the Polk's they replaced but I do remember being able to put a larger amp on them. 

The pair in the picture are new old stock.

Did you know Lanzar actually made home speakers for a few years? I have a pair of 10's in my garage that are still kicking, even after going through a garage fire.

-RF

..more pics soon.


----------



## rreed

Those are the CX's rather than the old white buffalo LN/ZR series, but very nice nonetheless.  I heard the old ones on a sound board once, incredibly amazing. Like a subwoofer having good sex w/ a tweeter. It's better than it sounds. Very impressive.

Greenie, you were right about the line driver. For months now I've been chasing my EQ and gain settings ALL-OVER the place trying to get my poo dialed in to no avail (hint, it's my ignorance to iTurds stock CD import settings and iSore downloads). I even bypassed my x4b and went straight into the amplifier. Turns out one issue was layering too many low pass x-overs (125 @ HU, 90 @ x4b, 90 @ amp) and unable to figure out why I couldn't get any good bass from metal and bluegrass. Plus I'd left the subwoofer gain at 0 on the x4b.

Got sick of my system sounding like poo so gave up on it for a while until I thought to try going back through the x4b again and crank up the gain on it - plus set its point to 120. WOWEEE!!! There's my monsterous big thunder I've been missing since I swapped out my 2050's and big box from before. I need to spend some time and tweak it but yeah, cranking up the gain on my x4b really helped. My HU is only 2V output (yeah, I know now) so that's probably not helping much. My old HU was 4V output so never had any issues romping and stomping w/ it. Thanks for the hint!

I also ordered up some good 8 gauge power cable so pretty soon I'll be monkeying around w/ some more amplifiers. I need to get some Deoxit Gold after my other 160 I bought off Silky, the front gain is so static-y and goofed up it's pretty much unusable. I'm hoping a good golden shower will clean it up. :worried:


----------



## rreed

RF, I very reluctantly watched a set of old LN series home speakers slide by on the 'bay once. It was a separates set; had a 10" bandpass cube subwoofer and two satellites w/ MD4's and the (2x4?) plate tweeter from back then. Aside from a little dust, looked mint. I was short on scratch so nearly cried as they went for a good deal.


----------



## RFOneWatt

rreed said:


> Those are the CX's rather than the old white buffalo LN/ZR series, but very nice nonetheless.  I heard the old ones on a sound board once, incredibly amazing. Like a subwoofer having good sex w/ a tweeter. It's better than it sounds. Very impressive.


White Buffalo? I'm drawing a blank. Do you happen to remember the full model number(s) of some of their top of the line 6x9's? It's been so long now that I really sit and think about it maybe you'll jog my memory. I need to get my hands on some older brochures.. heck, I need to look in some of my boxes.

@rreed -- Ugh. Now that's a tragedy for sure. Unfortunately my experience with their home stuff was limited to a pair of 10 & 12's that we ordered to just have on hand.

Ultimately I ended up taking the 10's home and selling the 12's at cost. People in the home theatre market just didn't know who Lanzar was and sadly they never got to know them. 

-RF


----------



## The Dude

I believe the white buffalo reference indicates that they are very rare models, rarely seen. If you go to this link you can search all Lanzar equipment. I have it set already to search from the oldest to the newest: Z777-D Speaker by Lanzar Audio Valuation Report by UsedPrice.com


----------



## rreed

Yep, about the rarest of the rare, at least probably as far as most of us here are concerned.  Silky or Greenie might have a pair, or at least some info on them. The ones I was talking about were the older paper/wood pulp/kevlar woofer cones of the LN/ZR series woofers. The later CX speakers I think were mica cones (as your box indicates). Not sure on the tweeters, I'm guessing silk or mylar which I think is all Lanzar ever ran(?). Also not sure what x-overs the CX use, the old 6x9's/6.5's used an 18db x-over. In short, they're just different, that's all, but impressive nonetheless. And welcome to the old Lanzar thread!


----------



## RFOneWatt

The Dude said:


> I believe the white buffalo reference indicates that they are very rare models, rarely seen. If you go to this link you can search all Lanzar equipment. I have it set already to search from the oldest to the newest: Z777-D Speaker by Lanzar Audio Valuation Report by UsedPrice.com


Haha.. I kind of gathered that after reading the actual wiki of the "Rare White Bison." My bad.

Thanks for the link!!

Now comes the fun part for me -- deciding what equipment to put where.

The first vehicle will be my 2005 Jeep Liberty, then onto a 2010 F-250 Crew Cab and then a sort of project car, a 2001 Hyundai Elantra -- which I love.

All will be powered exclusively by Lanzar OptiDrive amps from 1992-1996-ish.

-RF


----------



## rreed

That's pretty much all what we're about here, just the blue/gray ones from early 90's through the black ones of mid-late 90's. LN, ZR, LC, LP, and DC series by and large. No Vibe or post sell-out crap. Well, I say that, but this is not my thread, I just jumped in and started talking.


----------



## smgreen20

I like how the speaker has 6.92 on the back of it but the box has 69.2


----------



## smgreen20

Never heard off the white buffalos, but I'll be on the lookout now. Sorry rreed, I don't recall what I suggested you do/try but I'm glad it worked. Lol

I intended this thread to be about the LANZAR opti amps, both the bluish and darker colored ones, but now consider it to be for all things old school LANZAR. So post away with all you have.

I'm partial to the LXR series too.


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr. Reed usually I have found that they have dirty spots more often and when you get past it they work fine. The gold is good stuff but in the mean time so is the CRC QD Electronic cleaner. It has work great for years for me. A tech that trained me used it as his main cleaner. They now sell it in Wal-Mart and AutoZone. The automotive section. I was happy because even a small can on Amazon is $12-15.









Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

Welcome aboard RF-

Made a little more progress today. I moved the jack and handle tray under the passenger seat. Since it would be visible now I painted it red to match my truck.


----------



## SilkySlim

Lookin good. Nice detail.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

Anyone interested in a 6200? I know they are pretty difficult to get and I have ended up with an extra. It's solid may need to order some extra jumpers they are the same as hard drive jumpers.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Killing me silk, want one just no $ for one.


----------



## 63flip

Hey guys, here's a little FYI for all. I contacted Lanzar support about manuals for my 50c and 6200. My 50c was missing its manual even though it was NOS. They responded saying PDF's aren't available for these old amps but if you send a SASE to the address below with your request they will mail a copy free of charge. If you're looking for a manual for an old Opti here's the address. I didn't ask about the LXR Series so you might want to email them b-4 you send out an envelope for one. 


Sound Around Service Center
1600 63rd Street
Brooklyn, NY 11204


----------



## rreed

If you need manuals many of us here have them and can send you some scans (when we can get time to do it). I have Opti amp, processor, and woofer manuals from I think 93-96. Nothing LXR though. Wait, I might have a manual w/ my NIB LXR 10, I'll have to look. It might only be the spec sheet for the woofer though.

Thanks Silky, that's cool they're supplying stuff like that at the WM's now. I already have a can of Deoxit from my music scene days (guitar amp guys swear by the stuff) so I'll try it first. If not, I'll head to the WM for some CRC. This one is very dirty all the way across and the right channel cuts in/out while trying to turn it, wiggle around, etc. I'll fiddle fart around w/ it soon as I get the chance. Nothing I need working right now.

Ugh, Sound Around. Lord help us all...


----------



## smgreen20

Flip, I contacted them awhile ago and got nothing in reply. Thanks for doing to grunt work I guess. 

The only sheet inside the LXR subs are the T/S numbers. I have an LXR amp manual for the white series. I'm going to contact/send them the above and we'll see what they've got. I have the only LXR120Q I've ever seen, no manual for that one though.

Manuals I'll ask them for:
LXR120Q
Opti200 plus
Opti160Q TMS
Opti150
There's different wording in the TMS and plus series manuals.


----------



## 63flip

I contacted them because I really need the manual for my 6200. I'm not familiar with the jumpers in it so I want to be b-4 I install it. Spent to much money sourcing this gear for my build to damage something because I didn't pay attention.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Killing me silk, want one just no $ for one.


No worries I am in no hurry to sell, would rather see it go to someone here I just don't see myself using more than one so you have dibs!! Just let me know when you want it. Other than a a couple extra mounting hole it's a knock out. Very clean and very nice working condition. I really don't care if it's months.


----------



## SilkySlim

Also R Reed let me know if that doesn't work. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks for the offer silky, it'll take months too. Going on vacation in June, wife wants us to save money for that, I have to pay off a majority of the credit card plus I have a few things on my truck I have to fix. Looking to refinance the house, it needs a new roof and if theirs money left from that, then I should be able to buy things again, but until then.


----------



## RFOneWatt

63flip said:


> I contacted them because I really need the manual for my 6200. I'm not familiar with the jumpers in it so I want to be b-4 I install it. Spent to much money sourcing this gear for my build to damage something because I didn't pay attention.


I've got some new 6200's in the box. 

I'll scan the manual for you ASAP and post a link here.

-RF


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Thanks for the offer silky, it'll take months too. Going on vacation in June, wife wants us to save money for that, I have to pay off a majority of the credit card plus I have a few things on my truck I have to fix. Looking to refinance the house, it needs a new roof and if theirs money left from that, then I should be able to buy things again, but until then.


You got it bro. I understand I'm assessing my situation as well but I just can't let these beauties to go to just anyone. LOL I have a very similar list of things. The only diff is a vacation in May. But the car repair, roof, and refinance I hear ya. That is so funny.







RFOneWatt said:


> I've got some new 6200's in the box.
> 
> I'll scan the manual for you ASAP and post a link here.
> 
> -RF


Thanks from all of us that's awesome. I would like to have one too.


Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

Thanks for the manuals RF. I'll be looking for the link on the 6200 for sure.

Bought something on Evilbay today. It wasnt listed long so I doubt many saw it. I'll never get my install done if I keep this up!! Pics will be forthcoming when it arrives.

Hint- Think surfing!


----------



## smgreen20

50c.....


----------



## 63flip

Here's a close up of the evilbay purchase. 











Didn't feel right leaving everyone in suspense until it arrived!


----------



## SilkySlim

Is that a black n gold 500? Wow interesting!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

It would be the 100c the 50c is a boogie board.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Yea, said surf board so that's why I guess Opti50c. 

I'm removing my Opti500 this week in favor of an Opti200.

Going to do an art deal with my Opti500.

I'm led to believe that the Opti100c was a prototype just as was the Opti120.


----------



## smgreen20

Btw flip, you got that 500 from OUR *SECRET* store didn't you?


----------



## 63flip

Honest to goodness it came off evilbay. It popped up on a saved search of mine yesterday with a BIN any OS Lanzar guy would have to be nuttier than a squirrel turd to pass up! Even if they lied and it doesn't work the only way this one would be a bust is if the board was damaged.


----------



## RFOneWatt

My pleasure on the manual. Glad I can help.

I went and pulled it out of the box this morning on the way to work and it's one of those fold out types so it will be a bit tricky to scan but I'll get 'err done. I might take a few days but I won't forget. Message boards are funny like that when it comes to follow-up by a lot of people.

I forgot to look but doesn't the 6200 have the jumper settings right on the back?

Nice catch on that 500. I have a couple of the black and golds new in the box but I've never heard one......yet. I only have experience with the prior generations.

-RF


----------



## 63flip

If the jumper setting are on the amp they would have to be on the inside of the bottom cover. Nothing on the outside.


----------



## RFOneWatt

63flip said:


> If the jumper setting are on the amp they would have to be on the inside of the bottom cover. Nothing on the outside.


Hmm.. Might be on the inside. I can't remember. I could be totally wrong.

You need those jumper settings quicker than a few days?

-RF


----------



## 63flip

RFOneWatt said:


> Hmm.. Might be on the inside. I can't remember. I could be totally wrong.
> 
> You need those jumper settings quicker than a few days?
> 
> -RF


No, I probably won't be that far into my install for at least another month. Work, wife, 2 little boys, and my hoarding of gear that has absolutely nothing to with this install make for slow progress.


----------



## RFOneWatt

63flip said:


> No, I probably won't be that far into my install for at least another month. Work, wife, 2 little boys, and my hoarding of gear that has absolutely nothing to with this install make for slow progress.


Haha.. I can relate, that's for sure. Cool then. I'll get it taken care of.

A couple 500's:










I'll be posting more pictures, what size should I make the original pics to please everybody?

-RF


----------



## SilkySlim

Love those 2500's they are a special amp. The 6200's don't have the settings they just have the locations. The different settings are in the manual. I thought the same thing. I think that Mr. Green has posted that a while back. I you need it now.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## RFOneWatt

You need it now?

Hopefully this will do until I have the time to do a proper scan:

*Lanzar 6200 Quick Pics*

Click on VIEW ORIGINAL in the bottom right hand corner for the large version.

-RF


----------



## secretsquirl

Going through some old stuff in my closet and found this again 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RFOneWatt

secretsquirl said:


> Going through some old stuff in my closet and found this again
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hey now... whoa. I/WE WANNA WATCH.

If you mail that to me I'll convert it and mail it back!

I found an old Orion jacket shoved way in back of my closet a couple months ago...but that's for a different thread. 

-RF


----------



## secretsquirl

I converted it to DVD already I'm going to try an load it to you tube. If not pm me an address and I'll send you a DVD. It may take a few days though  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

I'd be willing to pay for a copy, wait... Donate, for a copy of the DVD.


----------



## rreed

+1 to what greenie said. And silky, deoxit gold saves the day, pots all nice and clear now! And my gosh i see what you guys mean by head room of larger amps on mids/highs, i cleaned up both this 160 and 200 and bench tested, holy crap the power and conviction of 100 watts per speaker vs. only 40. I see some more wattage in my future. 

Now the catch is, i got a**-plowed at a stop light today and the insurance is all, it's a nineteen ninety WHAT??? We don't often fix stuff THAT old! So yeah i dunno what is going to happen to my rig now. It's awesome.


----------



## secretsquirl

No need to pay just need mailing addresses to pm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RFOneWatt

rreed said:


> +1 to what greenie said. And silky, deoxit gold saves the day, pots all nice and clear now! And my gosh i see what you guys mean by head room of larger amps on mids/highs, i cleaned up both this 160 and 200 and bench tested, holy crap the power and conviction of 100 watts per speaker vs. only 40. I see some more wattage in my future.
> 
> Now the catch is, i got a**-plowed at a stop light today and the insurance is all, it's a nineteen ninety WHAT??? We don't often fix stuff THAT old! So yeah i dunno what is going to happen to my rig now. It's awesome.


I was in the same situation last year with a 2001 Elantra that I loved.

Nothing special about the car.. I stole it from an estate sale as a cheap commuter car, driven by a little old man and all that but it really grew on me.

It was in "showroom condition" (according to the insurance appraiser) and it only had 50,000 miles on it. They totalled it solely due to the age.  

Here is the damage:










I did buy it back and will get it fixed this summer, hopefully.

So I feel your pain... Good luck!

-RF


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> +1 to what greenie said. And silky, deoxit gold saves the day, pots all nice and clear now! And my gosh i see what you guys mean by head room of larger amps on mids/highs, i cleaned up both this 160 and 200 and bench tested, holy crap the power and conviction of 100 watts per speaker vs. only 40. I see some more wattage in my future.
> 
> Now the catch is, i got a**-plowed at a stop light today and the insurance is all, it's a nineteen ninety WHAT??? We don't often fix stuff THAT old! So yeah i dunno what is going to happen to my rig now. It's awesome.



Hope you're alright. Several years back a guy parked his full size Dodge in the trunk of my wife's Sable. Everyone was ok but the next day we felt it and did so for over a week. No car audio was injured in that incident either!


----------



## 63flip

Mail was just delivered and I got an unexpected package. The TMS 500 arrived. They must have bought this thing a plane ticket. It came from SoCal and I only bought it Weds afternoon. My wife has my Ranger so I'm not able to test it but I pulled the cover and it looks good inside. No funny smell either. 

This must be a late TMS amp since it's black and gold. I thought only the CPS amps had those colors. Maybe '95, the year b-4 the CPS amps were introduced?

Also at 19" it probably does only qualify as a boogie board. I thought the 500's were 22" long. Oh well, still a big ass amp.


----------



## SilkySlim

I am more worried about you too. I drove my truck off her car and that night really started hurting. Come to find out 8 ruptured discs. Two back/neck surgeries 7-8 years of work and therapy I'm about 60%-70%. So be careful. I hope your ok. Sorry to hear that.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

The black with gold lettering that wasn't the 4 digit model numbers are at the switchover points from the bluish to blackish ones. They're not very common as are the polished ones like my 500.


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> View attachment 53208
> 
> 
> Mail was just delivered and I got an unexpected package. The TMS 500 arrived. They must have bought this thing a plane ticket. It came from SoCal and I only bought it Weds afternoon. My wife has my Ranger so I'm not able to test it but I pulled the cover and it looks good inside. No funny smell either.
> 
> This must be a late TMS amp since it's black and gold. I thought only the CPS amps had those colors. Maybe '95, the year b-4 the CPS amps were introduced?
> 
> Also at 19" it probably does only qualify as a boogie board. I thought the 500's were 22" long. Oh well, still a big ass amp.


Man that looks good it is more rare to have the black and gold that's awesome.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

I didn't realize that the black and gold TMS amps were that rare. When I saw the price and the physical condition I just jumped on it. 
So, the wife didn't get my truck home in time to hook it up b-4 I had to get to work. I'll definitely have time tomorrow.


----------



## smgreen20

If all goes as planned, Monday I should have a set of LP8D subs on their way to me.


----------



## 63flip

Finally got the time to hook up my new TMS 500 and it works like a champ! Made my day.


----------



## SilkySlim

Congrats evil bay can be a gamble but I will have to say the opti's seem to be hard to destroy. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Thanks all, yeah it was NBD, just a slight bump while she parked her hood under my gas tank. So my DD is parked and I'm in the rent-a-wreck for now. Lame.

But it's given me a little time to clean up some pots (wowee what a difference), get some cabling and stuff ordered up, and investigate support batteries. Silky, do you run those little batteries in your systems? Anyone else? Do they really help that much?


----------



## smgreen20

Parked my truck last weekend to start the reinstall. Out came the LANZAR Opti50, Opti150 and Opti500. In will be going a LANZAR Opti150 and two Opti200's. I'll get some pics posted when I get home.


----------



## SF49ers

I finally started on mine as well. 3 opti 500's, 150, 200 and an E30. Should have most of it installed in 2 weeks as soon as I finish the box and amp rack.


----------



## SilkySlim

rreed said:


> Thanks all, yeah it was NBD, just a slight bump while she parked her hood under my gas tank. So my DD is parked and I'm in the rent-a-wreck for now. Lame.
> 
> But it's given me a little time to clean up some pots (wowee what a difference), get some cabling and stuff ordered up, and investigate support batteries. Silky, do you run those little batteries in your systems? Anyone else? Do they really help that much?


Sorry guys been in a communication vortex/black hole on a project for a few days. Yes the little $60 hc600 are great mount them close to the amps and they are phenomenal reinforcement batts. They handle the quick gulps of current and stabilize voltage while they alt and reg catch up to the demands. 
Just saw your Message too of course you have access.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Great! So where/how do I get to it?  I've also kept meaning to ask if this 200 has been modded or repaired at some point? Don't care either way, it appears to work fine, just noticed some of the black thingies that mount to the heat sink have been replaced and was curious.


----------



## SilkySlim

EBay or Amazon prime. Do a search HC600 our find a local dealer. Kinetik. 
Not repaired or modified by me I know. I know where the handful are. Can't remember that one I know it went through a burn in, quick inspection of caps and such. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Oops, I meant the "special" store.  

Yeah I've found the support batteries, 1-2 of them are on my list for my DD and old farm truck builds. It never dawned on me to use those tiny support batteries, I've always thought in my head just another full size battery somewhere in the back.  I think one of these little ones would be about the same overall size/weight of a 3-4 farad capacitor and bring a whole lot more to the party. I'm stoked. 

Can't wait to get my ZJ back from the shop too so I can get back to work on it. My JSC power cable came in the other day (yummy), I can start playing musical amplifiers too. No pun intended.


----------



## SilkySlim

Awesome news.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Nothing much new to report for me, got my ears cleaned out finally, now I have to turn down the treble on my EQ's and x-overs, haha. Have started laying out plans and figuring out what I'm going to do to route power cables since my sweet new JSC copper came in (/shameless plug). Measured to make sure my three amps will fit across the back of the seat, thank goodness they will.

Does anyone know where we can source the original, or similar to original, 8 gauge power cable couplers that came w/ at least the black series amps? I'm not fond of the idea of a big crimp connector. I can solder well enough but would rather it not be permanent. I only have one that came w/ my NIB 2050 back in the day. I'd love to have a few more of those. What is everyone doing to hook up their amp's power cables? Esp. when you get a used one that has about 2" of power wire left sticking out of it?


----------



## 63flip

I haven't made much progress either but that should be changing soon. I'm expecting 50sq ft of sound deadener in the mail any day. If the wife doesn't make any plans I should be able to get started on that its weekend. 
I've also been turning ideas in my head. I wanted to run my 50c and 6200 end to end across the top of my enclosure but at 46"s I'm not sure I can. I've only got 48"s across the back. I could get them in but it won't leave much room for wiring and fans at either end. I may end mounting them one above the other on the front and have the DC's on top firing up. 


Rreed I know you can by the distribution blocks at any car audio store or order them. The 4ga in with 8ga out are common. They will be similar but probably have the manufactures name silk screened on them. It wouldn't be to hard to clean off to match the ones that came with the CPS amps. As for originals, I don't have a clue were to find them. I plan on using the distribution blocks on my install. I don't want to cut, loose any length, on the wires on my amps. Plus crimping would just look damn ugly. I plan on a run of 0ga from the battery to a block w/2 4ga off it. Then thru a fuse block on each 4ga and into the block w/ 8ga out connecting to my amps.


----------



## rreed

Oh yeah I have misc. distribution blocks and whatnot for fuses, 4/8, etc., I just wanted something close to the original for mating up the amps to the 8 gauge, those are just so perfect for it. It doesn't have to look original, this isn't a show vehicle and I stealth install everything anyways. I just like those particular ones.

You sure you want to mount the amp(s) to your sub box? Always seemed like the vibrations would be no good for them but what do I know. I'm in the same bind, I might have 1/2" of space b/t two of my amps so not really sure how that's going to pan out. Yeah sure the cables will fit in/out but I'm not thrilled about having power cables of one that close to the patch cables of another.


----------



## 63flip

My big problem is space! I'm trying to fit 2 15"DC's plus amps in the back of an extended cab Ranger. It will fit but mounting the amps on the enclosure seems like my only option. I would be interested to hear anyone's ideas tho. 
As far as the vibration once this system is installed it will probably vibrate my truck across the parking lot when it's in park! Seriously tho I removed an 8w7 with a Slash 250/1 from this truck to start the instal. I had the amp mounted right next to the sub on top of the enclosure and never had a problem. I ran it that way for 3yrs.


----------



## rreed

I haven't scanned through the Myths/Dogma (which has some pretty interesting discussions, especially if like me you've missed out on about the past 20 years or so of car audio tom foolery) on this site for the skinny on mounting amps to sub boxes. I know people have done it for years. My previous setup had the amps mounted to an "amp board" that was just the bottom/floor of the sub box extending beyond the back wall about a foot or so. As in most cases, it was just convenient.

Back in the day when all the guys were running a wall of (8) 15's in their extended cab pickups, they'd sort of "board up" the two side walls and mount their amps/processors vertically on either side, then the giant cab to house their 15's would just fit into the cab b/t the sides that are now "wall papered" in amplifiers. It seemed to work well though I doubt you'd need anything that large w/ "just two" 15's.


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> My big problem is space! I'm trying to fit 2 15"DC's plus amps in the back of an extended cab Ranger. It will fit but mounting the amps on the enclosure seems like my only option. I would be interested to hear anyone's ideas tho.
> As far as the vibration once this system is installed it will probably vibrate my truck across the parking lot when it's in park! Seriously tho I removed an 8w7 with a Slash 250/1 from this truck to start the instal. I had the amp mounted right next to the sub on top of the enclosure and never had a problem. I ran it that way for 3yrs.


Eric??????


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Eric??????


No...but if you mean Eric at "the stereo shop that shall not be named" I know him.


----------



## smgreen20

No, lol, not him. 

A friend, former installer at my local stereo shop. He too drove a Ford ranger and had Installed an 8W7 powered be a 250/1. Haven't seen him in years.


----------



## SilkySlim

My buddy has vibrated a resistor completely off of the board on an ESX amp. Another buddy did that and cracked many of the solder joints on a us acoustics had to go thorough the whole thing and resolder. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the age of the board or solder joints but I don't have any problems with the one not mounted to the enclosures.

Now if you are going to do it research sorbathane washers and isolators. You can find them on amazon from isolate it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042...0_QL40&qid=1401455346&sr=8-16#ref=mp_s_a_1_16
These are highly effective. I have found making a amp board and using these washers between the board and the box and then between the and board. If you can fully float the board with recessing and then a washer on top between the board and the mounting screw. Since we do this haven't had any problems. One it took 6-8 mo. To manifest on both.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

^This; in short I figure if we don't do it at all then we won't have to worry about it.  I ran my setup w/ my extended-bottom-box-board-as-an amp-rack for a good 5 years or so but it was just one ZR12 w/ a 2050 pushing it mono and the woofer was way on the far opposite end of the (large) box from the amps so, not sure if that had anything to do w/ it. I was never crazy about it but I appear to have gotten away w/ it. I wouldn't do it again. I suppose if you absolutely had to then Silky's rubber isolators would be a terrific start. In our old Jeeps we use similar if not the same isolators to mount hot-rod ignition boxes and electric air compressors on fenders to help keep both from getting shaken and vibrated apart. The ones that are studded on each end and it's a chunk of soft rubber in the middle are what come w/ fancy MSD ignition boxes and really provide a soft platform. I use some large sandwich style like the ones you posted Silky to mount the giant air compressor in my heavy trail rig.

Got the wire to my front left tweeter ran up to the top of the dash last night. Exciting, I know. Hoping to get the right one ran maybe this weekend so I'll be ready to move my tweeters from the kick panels up to where they need to be. Also fiddle-farted around w/ figuring out how I'm going to route my power wire in the back and where I'm going to stick my support battery (best idea ever!). Accidentally goofed up my x4b gain last night so now my woofer barks and farts when I get above reasonable volume level. Not thrilled about that.


----------



## 63flip

Thanks for the link on the washers Silky. Using something like that to help absorb the vibration had crossed my mind. 
The sound deadener arrived today. Hopefully some real progress will be made this weekend(Mon & Tues for me). Once I pull all the trim from the back wall of my cab it looks like I'm going to gain another 1.5" of depth in the back. I might be able to come up with something to mount the amps across the floor at angle at the base if the enclosure Just going to have to wait and see.


----------



## SilkySlim

Very cool.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

Another weekend passed and nothing accomplished. Spent one day moving my 63 bird to a shop. Hopefully she'll be running soon! Wife had plans for the other day. 
On the progress side I did score a Kenwood 4042 EQ for $20. Got it installed with my Alpine HU. Got tired of no bass. Since I hadn't pulled my old wires I put my 8w7 and 250/1 back in. A step back?
Thank goodness I've got a weeks vacation coming at the end of the month. I know I'll make some progress then.


----------



## SilkySlim

Moving my tweets and hopefully reworking my pods this weekend. Crossed fingers.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

That was quite optimistic. I don't know when now maybe next week. It's there anyone in need of the Opti line drivers, crossovers or possibly eq30. I am thinking of selling some. Got to thin down the heard. Amps and processing. It's just so hard to part with my Opti's. LOL

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

2X crossover and a purpleish blue E30. That's all I need to round out the collection. I have the darker blue with gold letting that I want to trade out.


----------



## SilkySlim

I'll see what I have most of my processors are black and gold series. I'll check tomorrow.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## jrs1006

SilkySlim said:


> That was quite optimistic. I don't know when now maybe next week. It's there anyone in need of the Opti line drivers, crossovers or possibly eq30. I am thinking of selling some. Got to thin down the heard. Amps and processing. It's just so hard to part with my Opti's. LOL
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


I would be interested in a black/gold E30. That's all I need to complete my processor section.


----------



## smgreen20

A bit odd but if he has the E30 I'm after and he's willing to sell it, you buy his, have it sent to me and I'll send you mine. I'll pay for the shipping to you.


----------



## SF49ers

smgreen20 said:


> 2X crossover and a purpleish blue E30. That's all I need to round out the collection. I have the darker blue with gold letting that I want to trade out.



I have both the CX2 and E30 in purpleish blue I'd let go for the right price, no trades though


----------



## smgreen20

If jrs1006 is willing, my proposal stands. You guys work out a price, mail the that one to me and when it arrives I'll mail my black/gold E30 to jrs1006.


----------



## rreed

Dibs on the drivers, I'll PM you silky...


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> If jrs1006 is willing, my proposal stands. You guys work out a price, mail the that one to me and when it arrives I'll mail my black/gold E30 to jrs1006.


I am down Will PM Silky on pricing.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sounds good been slammed at work and with the fam. Sorry about that. Catching up on the deals I plan on posting some pics of what I have the processors I have. 

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SF49ers

show off time. Here is my amp rack for the time being, the covering is just temporary and will be finished in the near future. I would like to thank SilkySlim for all the help along the way, very much appreciated. 3 500's, 200, 150 and 100


----------



## smgreen20

You have to many 500's, I'm going to have to insist that you give one to me......  
That's sweet thus far. What all is it powering?


----------



## SF49ers

smgreen20 said:


> You have to many 500's, I'm going to have to insist that you give one to me......
> That's sweet thus far. What all is it powering?


3 12" Fosgate P1s tuned high, and 2 15" Fosgate T2D215s tuned low. Right now the only mids and highs I have are some 3 way Kicker 6x9s until I get time to make some pods. I already have the speakers, 2 Fosgate PP4-Ts, 2 os Lanzar 4s and 4 os Lanzar 6.5s.


----------



## SilkySlim

SF49ers said:


> show off time. Here is my amp rack for the time being, the covering is just temporary and will be finished in the near future. I would like to thank SilkySlim for all the help along the way, very much appreciated. 3 500's, 200, 150 and 100


that is a beautiful site for sure. It should be vicious. I am excited to hear it. I surprised myself and hit a 154 @ the windshield with my 2 15's IB off of my 50c (with turn down for what playing) . I may end up strapping 2 2500's or 50c' s on them just for more headroom. I don't think my head can take much more.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SilkySlim

I'm a little confused about the 2 way trade or if rreed is just buying sf49er. Let me know. I'll help.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## SF49ers

SilkySlim said:


> I'm a little confused about the 2 way trade or if rreed is just buying sf49er. Let me know. I'll help.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


pretty sure he's not buying anything from me


----------



## rreed

Whoever has speakers to get rid of!


----------



## smgreen20

I'm glad you found the site and shared. You're a man after my own heart. Clarion 6770 and LANZAR........
Can't wait to see the mid setup. I've got 2 pairs of the MWS6.5's nib, a set of MWS5's nib, a set of the MD4's nib and a setof the TWS tweeters that were nib until I played them.


----------



## SilkySlim

Just to clarify Mr. Green were you referring to drivers as speakers or line drivers/processors.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

Speakers.


----------



## SilkySlim

I think all I have is a DC10 4ohm and a set of Dc 6.5. Let me know if that interest you.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## 63flip

SilkySlim said:


> I think all I have is a DC10 4ohm and a set of Dc 6.5. Let me know if that interest you.


I'm still looking for one more pair of components for my set up. I bought a used 
pair of 5.25" CS series speakers the other day. So I guess if I scored a pair of tweets I could run them and the 5.25" CS active and my DC component set off the last 2 channels on my 6200. 

When I get home from the lake my last 2 days of vacation are going to be working on my install. Finally gonna get that sound deadening done. If only I didn't have to work for a living there would be a lot more time for play!


----------



## SilkySlim

63flip said:


> I'm still looking for one more pair of components for my set up. I bought a used
> 
> pair of 5.25" CS series speakers the other day. So I guess if I scored a pair of tweets I could run them and the 5.25" CS active and my DC component set off the last 2 channels on my 6200.
> 
> 
> 
> When I get home from the lake my last 2 days of vacation are going to be working on my install. Finally gonna get that sound deadening done. If only I didn't have to work for a living there would be a lot more time for play!



That's awesome can't wait to see more progress!

I don't have the component set just the 6.5's but man they sound great with a good tweeter. You can run them active and passive they are quite flexible and IB they get low. They are quick and punchy. I have a set installed and for back-up. They do so well I don't think I'll need to keep a backup. The DC ten was bnib and I ran it for a few months in a 1.25 sealed box the surround is showing signs of stress. A little dry rotting cracks around the outside edge. Other than that it sounds great.


----------



## Reimers

just got this for cheap 
tiny little thing that im going to use to power my cerwin vega 6x8 coaxials in my front doors with


----------



## Reimers

anybody know how big fuse i should have on that opti 500.2 i posted in my last post?


----------



## jrs1006

SilkySlim said:


> That's awesome can't wait to see more progress!
> 
> I don't have the component set just the 6.5's but man they sound great with a good tweeter. You can run them active and passive they are quite flexible and IB they get low. They are quick and punchy. I have a set installed and for back-up. They do so well I don't think I'll need to keep a backup. The DC ten was bnib and I ran it for a few months in a 1.25 sealed box the surround is showing signs of stress. A little dry rotting cracks around the outside edge. Other than that it sounds great.


Silky PM me about the 6.5's I have two 5.5's now but thinking about a 3 way set up with the 3.5".


----------



## SilkySlim

Sounds good I'll do it in the morning.


----------



## Reimers

me and my kids had a good time tearing down an old ruined lanzar dc12 pro today.
as you can se the motor had shifted and the cone was ruined


----------



## smgreen20

Zepplin all over again..... Oh the humanity!


----------



## 63flip

Build progress was finally made! The sound deadening is nearly complete. Only have the 2 passenger doors left to do. Took a lot more time than I thought it would. This was my first time. I never realized how many nooks and crannies you can have in one little pick up. It felt good to finally make real progress. 
On another note I got good news from the shop that has my 63 bird. It's now running and the convertible top is working too. The old girl hadn't been started in nearly 7 years.


----------



## 63flip

Stopped by "The Shop that shall not be named" today and got a cool gift. He had a 18"x11" Lanzar authorized dealer sticker and a 1993 product brochure for me. 
Also bought the last pair of components needed for my build. CS 6.1. They will have to do until I come across another DC Series set. The only pieces in this build not Lanzar are the HU & EQ. I've even got a Lanzar vbd500 HU if I wanted to use it but I think I'm going to stick with the Alpine 7844 and 3331.


----------



## smgreen20

Oohhhhh I wonder if he has another one? Can you by chance get some pics of both? 
I need to get there and pick up my Opti fan shrouds. Other things keep popping up that I have to pay for. The latest was a new transmission for the wife's Nox, just under $3800!!!!


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Oohhhhh I wonder if he has another one? Can you by chance get some pics of both?
> I need to get there and pick up my Opti fan shrouds


 I would love to add some pics of both but I SUCK at it. I still haven't figured out more than how to add a thumbnail. Every time I try to use a pic from photobucket nothing shows up. I'm going to need to have a friends teenage kid show me how to add pics properly. 

Hope you don't plan on going up in the next 2 weeks. They're going to be closed for 2 weeks for vacation starting Saturday(7-12).


----------



## smgreen20

No, not anytime soon.


----------



## smgreen20

If all goes as planned, I'll be going to the "store that shall not be named" this weekend and will have a few pieces to share with everyone. Also, I just grabbed my oldest piece by LANZAR to date. Pics when it all arrives.


----------



## smgreen20

I just don't enough time in the day anymore. Here's the score from my road trip to the "secret store". 

ACM160Q

















Here it is with the amp.

















DCR3.5, this is sadly the first set of speakers I've ever bought that has had dry rot right out of the box, still factory sealed. I'll be looking into a surround kit for these.


















This isn't from the road trip, but a score from a few weeks ago. No plug, but I was able to buy a new one that fits, sadly in white, but hey.....














































Can't remember if I shared these or not, but I grabbed these about 2 months ago. LP8-8's


----------



## apop311

Hey Mr. Green quick question for you . I have a lanzar opti 200 plus i scored off ebay a few years back i ran it about 2 years straight at 2 ohms mono powering an alpine type r 10" (which slammed with this amp on it btw) just wondering is a 2ohm mono load safe with these amps ? i realize from what little specs i can find that 4ohm seems to be the minimum mono load but i have no maual and cannot find one anywhere would love to have one btw if you have a copy .. Any how i ran it at 2ohms for 30 to 45 minutes daily give or take and it never seemed hotter than other amps i have run before (hot to the touch not scaulding) thanks in advance!


----------



## mercury02

I have a Opti 30eq works will get pics up for sale.
Lonnie Vaughn (Alto Mobile worked for a while)one of the old engineers for Lanzar tested my EQ in 2004
he said all was good it has been in the box since then.
Im thinking of selling it only if I get a good price


----------



## smgreen20

Apop, yes they can handle 2 ohms mono but it's highly recommended that you have a fan on them when you do. I'll be running my 500 at 2 ohms mono again in a few months.

Merc, please, post pics of the E30. I have one but I have the darker colored one, I want the bluish one.


----------



## mercury02

Its the ugly brown color not the bluish color you want.


----------



## apop311

Thanks Mr Green ! greatly appreciated


----------



## smgreen20

No problem


----------



## 63flip

Can't believe I missed that x3 on evilbay today. Fell asleep watching the tv and the auction ended. It went for $49. Hope someone one here scored it!


----------



## Pulse_GTO

63flip said:


> Can't believe I missed that x3 on evilbay today. Fell asleep watching the tv and the auction ended. It went for $49. Hope someone one here scored it!


Was that a good price? 

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 63flip

Pulse_GTO said:


> Was that a good price? 2


Yes. That x3 was used but near mint with its original box. Brand new that was a $400 signal processor. I paid $105 for one in the same condition but mine also included the manual.


----------



## smgreen20

If I collected that color LANZAR then I would've been all over it.


----------



## RFOneWatt

[/URL]

LOVE LOVE LOVE this series of Lanzar.. 

I've regretted selling this specific amp along with a matching 500 since the day I did, back in high school.

How close are these to the very first Lanzar amps??


-RF

BTW, I didn't forget about scanning that manual - It's like a poster and I need to use the big scanner while at work. I'll get 'err done as soon as I'm alone with it.  If anybody needs any info before, just PM me.


----------



## rreed

Regrettably, I watched it sail by like so many other badly desired bits of Lanzar gear over the years. I want and "need" one quite badly, but we're having to pucker up the purse strings quite a bit lately. This would not have been an easy case of easier to ask for forgiveness than permission. That was a screaming deal, the X3's always pull a premium price for whatever reason. I don't think I've seen one go for less than $75.


----------



## 63flip

Found this on evilbay. Might interest some for their OS Literature and swag collection. 


Lanzar Original Exclusive Pin American Flag Logo Amplifier Woofer Brand New | eBay


----------



## 63flip

63flip said:


> Found this on evilbay. Might interest some for their OS Literature and swag collection.
> 
> 
> Lanzar Original Exclusive Pin American Flag Logo Amplifier Woofer Brand New | eBay




If anyone else is interested I bought one and they accepted an offer of $10.


----------



## 63flip

Read the description on this auction. Guess this guy didn't read the owners manual. The 50c isn't even 1/4 ohm stable. 


Old School Lanzar Optidrive 2150 300 Watts | eBay


----------



## smgreen20

In stereo the 50c is 1/4 ohm stable and in all reality would be ok mono at a 1/4 ohm. Back in the day The local dealer then would arc weld (dead short) aluminum coke cans with a 50c.


----------



## rreed

Man, and I can iron a shirt w/ my 160 just running 4 ohm mono rear and 2 ohm stereo front.


----------



## smgreen20

Well yeah, that's 2 ohms per ch. I'm sure she's hot, just do what you can. Put some fans on her.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry guys I have been out of the loop here. I had some family emergencies and injuries so I haven't been checking in. Nice score Mr. Green. 
Mr. Reed most of the opti's I have found run on the hot side of warm. The 50c withstanding I don't think I can get that thing hot! The fan is very effective! So is a computer fan with double sided tape stuck to the top wired into I relay on the remote turn on lead in a pinch. Very similar effect as the factory fan shroud just not attractive. Then you can drop it like its hot! Or drop the ohm load a little more with a little force air cooling these Opti's are absolutely amazing and like to be driven. 

Trying to figure out how to get them in the wife's car but will most likely end up with other old school amps because of the constraints of the build. 
I wish they had an opti in between a 2200 & 2500 or 200 & 500.


----------



## SilkySlim

Mr Reed don't inform everyone of the ironing board trick because they might be harder to find. Everyone has to look nice. If traveling sales guys figure that out we won't have enough amps for us!!! ?????


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> Trying to figure out how to get them in the wife's car but will most likely end up with other old school amps because of the constraints of the build.
> I wish they had an opti in between a 2200 & 2500 or 200 & 500.


I was thinking the same thing Saturday while I was in the middle of an old school Lanzar build. 

I pulled out the 2200 I was using and grabbed a 4150 and bridged it two channel. 150 RMS to my front components.

I need to find some original Lanzar Fan shrouds if anybody has any they want to part with or sees them in the wild.

-RF


----------



## Buickmike

Good to know you really can run these 2 ohm bridged. Back in the day I ran my 100 like that to a pair of Lanzar Pro Plus 12"s. It was stupid loud. I ended up overheating the amp though and the diodes on the power supply section melted the solder and fell out. Now I see why they soldered those on the other side of the board on the later models. I soldered them back in and it worked, but thermal protection would kick in earlier after that. A friend of mine ended up getting all the Lanzar stuff and a couple years ago I got the 100 back from him. Still bummed he trashed the 50 and the subs. The 100 would go right into protection. I replaced the power supply caps, mosfets, and opto couplers to no avail. Then last year I compared the resistance on the thermistor with the one on my 50 and it was way different. Even though the reisistance would still go up with heat, it was way out of tolerance. The amp works now.

I may consider running the 100 to my 2 Audiophile 10"s in my GN at 2 ohms bridged and the 50 to my mids / highs. Then again, I was planning on just using my SAX100.4D on the whole system. The only downside is that I would have to run the subs in series since the Sundown amp cannot handle a 2 ohm bridged load. Decisions decisions.


----------



## RFOneWatt

Well, scratch that idea.

I put that 4150 in last night and it sounded sweet. Everything was great..... until I turned it up today. It goes into protect after a few minutes of medium volume.

Now I knowingly bridged it to a 3 Ohm load (Polk components) and figured it would be fine if I kept it cool enough so I find it strange that it kept going into protect -- and it's not thermal. 

This is the first time in 20 years that I've hooked up any Lanzar equipment and never this series. I used the older stuff back in the 90's (black/orange and then the grey/grey blue.) 

So is something wrong with this 4150?

Another thing -- before I put the NOS Lanzar stuff in I was running some old beat up Zapco and Hi-Fonics amps that I had around to test the electrical.

I now remember why I fell in love with Lanzar back in the 90's. 

The Zapco / Hi-Fonics setup sounded good, if not great but the Lanzar stuff absolutely without a doubt sounds MUCH warmer. Much cleaner. (I had a 350.2 on the components and a Zeus on the subs.)

Thanks in advance to anybody that can help me out. I've been waiting years to pull some of this equipment out of the box and I'm chomping at the bit to start the permanent install. 

Thanks in advance to anybody that has a bit more recent experience.

-RF

Playing musical amps...


----------



## Buickmike

RFOneWatt said:


> Well, scratch that idea.
> 
> I put that 4150 in last night and it sounded sweet. Everything was great..... until I turned it up today. It goes into protect after a few minutes of medium volume.
> 
> Now I knowingly bridged it to a 3 Ohm load (Polk components) and figured it would be fine if I kept it cool enough so I find it strange that it kept going into protect -- and it's not thermal.
> 
> This is the first time in 20 years that I've hooked up any Lanzar equipment and never this series. I used the older stuff back in the 90's (black/orange and then the grey/grey blue.)
> 
> So is something wrong with this 4150?
> 
> Another thing -- before I put the NOS Lanzar stuff in I was running some old beat up Zapco and Hi-Fonics amps that I had around to test the electrical.
> 
> I now remember why I fell in love with Lanzar back in the 90's.
> 
> The Zapco / Hi-Fonics setup sounded good, if not great but the Lanzar stuff absolutely without a doubt sounds MUCH warmer. Much cleaner. (I had a 350.2 on the components and a Zeus on the subs.)
> 
> Thanks in advance to anybody that can help me out. I've been waiting years to pull some of this equipment out of the box and I'm chomping at the bit to start the permanent install.
> 
> Thanks in advance to anybody that has a bit more recent experience.
> 
> -RF
> 
> Playing musical amps...



You may have the same issue that I ran into after I overheated my 100 years ago. The story is a couple posts up from here, but after the incident the amp would go into protection after a few minutes and I ended up turning down the gain a little to remedy the problem. Fast forward 20 years and when I got the same amp back it would go into protection after 5 seconds. 

Check the resistance on your thermistor. It should be around 80 ohms at room temp. If it is quite a bit higher, then it is out of spec and probably kicking the amp into thermal protection prematurely like mine was. If it is out of spec, you can test by putting an 80 ohm resistor across it and run the speakers just like you did before and see if it still goes into protection. If so, you either have an internal issue with one of the drivers leaking DC voltage (that usually causes the amp to go straight into protect mode) or maybe the resistance across the speakers is lower than you think due to an issue with the speakers??? I still say check the thermal circuit first.

What Hifonics were you running? My Lanzars are nice, but I don't think they are cleaner than my VIII Europa.


----------



## RFOneWatt

Buickmike said:


> You may have the same issue that I ran into after I overheated my 100 years ago. The story is a couple posts up from here, but after the incident the amp would go into protection after a few minutes and I ended up turning down the gain a little to remedy the problem. Fast forward 20 years and when I got the same amp back it would go into protection after 5 seconds.
> 
> Check the resistance on your thermistor. It should be around 80 ohms at room temp. If it is quite a bit higher, then it is out of spec and probably kicking the amp into thermal protection prematurely like mine was. If it is out of spec, you can test by putting an 80 ohm resistor across it and run the speakers just like you did before and see if it still goes into protection. If so, you either have an internal issue with one of the drivers leaking DC voltage (that usually causes the amp to go straight into protect mode) or maybe the resistance across the speakers is lower than you think due to an issue with the speakers??? I still say check the thermal circuit first.
> 
> What Hifonics were you running? My Lanzars are nice, but I don't think they are cleaner than my VIII Europa.


Thanks, yes, I saw your posts and was thinking the same thing. I will open it up and measure it this weekend.. I'm guessing it should be pretty obvious as it would be coupled to the heat sink and I pretty much know what most other components are. (I think)

I was running a Series IV Zeus (A LOT of power with a nice small footprint!) and a Zapco 350.2. 

The Lanzar stuff really does sound so much better than the Zapco and the Zapco sounded good! Can't really tell on the subs.. both the Zeus and the Opti 500 slam.

BTW, the speakers are Polk MM6501 components. 

Their spec sheet shows them @ 3 Ohms. The Zapco in stereo didn't have a problem and the 2200 in line now hasn't skipped a beat. (Both are configured stereo) The 4150 was bridged.

Thanks!!
-RF


----------



## vwguy383

Hey mr. Green can you post some pictures of the back side of the cooling fan thing. Kind of seems silly how it sits up so high on top of the amp.

Thanks
Justin


----------



## smgreen20




----------



## RFOneWatt

Well I measured the resistance of the Polk's with a MM. 2.7 Ohms.

Protection on the 4150 wasn't thermal unless of course the thermistor is out of tolerance as you said.. That's really got to be it, huh? Unless the 2.7 Ohm load is causing another type of protection to kick in? hmm.. Man, it's been a while. 

I did put my 500 into thermal yesterday after an hour at 3/4 tilt. I'm drooling over those fan shrouds though -- had to make something up right quick.

The reason I'm using the grey 500 in the pic below is because keeping new old stock in the box for 20 years is BAD.

TWO.. yes, two brand new 500's both with issues out the box. One has zero output and the other has very low output. Sigh.

I hope the three 6200's and multiple others on my shelves are OK.

Who works on these things these days?

-RF


----------



## smgreen20

And if you ever choose to sell a 6200, let me know. If I have the $ at the time, I'll buy. Just thought I'd throw that out there.


----------



## RFOneWatt

smgreen20 said:


> And if you ever choose to sell a 6200, let me know. If I have the $ at the time, I'll buy. Just thought I'd throw that out there.


I have a problem selling equipment. I think I'm OCD.

The last time I sold a piece of car audio was back in high school when I sold a Lanzar 240 (just like the one pictured above) and a matching 500. I sold them to a buddy of mine who kept them in a closet for three years and refused to sell them back.

Eventually the guy hit a low point and he ended up selling them for crack. 

ANYWAYS, I'd be willing to trade a 6200... I'm in need of a working black/gold 500 at the moment. <grin>

~RF


----------



## SilkySlim

Dude that sucks about your friend. 
On the 500 & 6200 I would go through and triple quadruple check any thing no matter how small I put for amps in the repair pile all because the rca plus had a bad connection on the test bench deck I had used for 2yrs.I had bad oscillation weird feedback all sorts of weirdness then I would test another amp or channels fine. I retested them with my iPad as a source/headunit they worked great but if you a Bluetooth adt it's even better. I would be very surprised if they are bad out of the box.


----------



## SilkySlim

You got new with that pic it looks like the speaker less are going to ground. LOL.
BTW there are two guys on here I can highly recommend for repairs Shawn K & Tricky Ricky.


----------



## SilkySlim

Rf watt test the speaker leads to chassis ground maybe something is going to ground somewhere. 

I loved those polks. I also have many HiFonics svii in my collection and feel the same way the Lanzar's are just so warm and clean but no loss in detail just loss of edge our harshness not that the HiFonics would make your ears bleed or anything but they just don't sound as natural. My esx amps come the closest.


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> Dude that sucks about your friend.
> On the 500 & 6200 I would go through and triple quadruple check any thing no matter how small I put for amps in the repair pile all because the rca plus had a bad connection on the test bench deck I had used for 2yrs.I had bad oscillation weird feedback all sorts of weirdness then I would test another amp or channels fine. I retested them with my iPad as a source/headunit they worked great but if you a Bluetooth adt it's even better. I would be very surprised if they are bad out of the box.


The 6200's I have have never been out of the box, I'm hoping they are fine. It was two 500's in a row that gave me issues. 

I don't know what to think about the 4150. That was brand new out of the box also - Most likely the thermistor, as said. It is a 2.7 Ohm load but regardless you would think it wouldn't shut off unless it got hot.

As you said it just doesn't seem right. I've never had a Lanzar amp bad out of the box so I'll get these on the bench this weekend and open them up and re-test them and see what happens. I did spend quite a bit of time with them in the vehicle but I've seen stranger things in my time.

Thanks!!!

~RF


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> Rf watt test the speaker leads to chassis ground maybe something is going to ground somewhere.
> 
> I loved those polks. I also have many HiFonics svii in my collection and feel the same way the Lanzar's are just so warm and clean but no loss in detail just loss of edge our harshness not that the HiFonics would make your ears bleed or anything but they just don't sound as natural. My esx amps come the closest.


Test the speakers leads to chassis ground? School me. 

I bought the Polks because that was the last set of components I had around 1999 and had really great luck with them. The 2.7 Ohm impedance is a total bonus. I think I'm going to order up another set for the rear of the vehicle. That or pop a pair of Lanzar 6.5's I have in the back. Haven't decided yet. Almost a waste being the back but since the vehicle is short it might be advantageous. 

Yep, it wasn't my ears playing tricks on me. The Lanzar stuff just sounds great, bottom line. I'd use the Zeus VI in a heartbeat on the subs but don't think I'll ever move from OS Lanzar on my mids and highs. At least until I hear something better, if possible.

~RF


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> You got new with that pic it looks like the speaker less are going to ground. LOL.
> BTW there are two guys on here I can highly recommend for repairs Shawn K & Tricky Ricky.


It does look like that.. Ha.. They are going to the back of the vehicle (12 GA) where I have the crossovers for the front Polk's. That's 2/0 coming from the front. 

Right now I'm playing with everything before I permanently mount anything. Very glad I did this as I've made quite a few design changes during the last week or two of driving around with the car 1/2 apart.

I was a mobile installer for five years between the ages of 18-23 and had a Lanzar sponsored show car back in 1993. (93 'T-Bird 5.0) but haven't done much of anything in years. 

Thanks for the heads up on the tech's. I'm OCD and if I have send anything out I'd like to send it to someone that cares.

~RF


----------



## SilkySlim

Both guys are meticulous but just look at Shawn K's build logs and you'll see that same ocd attention to detail. I have had very good experiences with both. Shawn K just modified and prepped a 50c that was like new and came back perfect.


----------



## SilkySlim

Your history sounds very similar to mine LOL.


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> Your history sounds very similar to mine LOL.


Yeah? I think this is a good age (just turned 40) .. I can afford to play and have a ton of experience in a couple of different professions. Doing this install and listening to some good, OS music has brought back a lot of really good memories. 

I'll hit up Shawn K once I determine the amps are indeed in need of work. Thanks a lot. 

Anybody have a new(ish) 500 for sale/trade??

~RFOneWatt


----------



## smgreen20

Shawn K was the middleman for me when I went to buy a LANZAR E30 eq. Easy to deal with great guy and communication.,


----------



## RFOneWatt

smgreen20 said:


> Shawn K was the middleman for me when I went to buy a LANZAR E30 eq. Easy to deal with great guy and communication.,


Good to know, I really appreciate it.

I'll check out his build log. 

If I do indeed send him the amplificators are there any upgrades that I should think about having him do while he's at it?

~RF


----------



## smgreen20

I know there's a few, but I don't recall what.


----------



## SilkySlim

RFOneWatt said:


> Yeah? I think this is a good age (just turned 40) .. I can afford to play and have a ton of experience in a couple of different professions. Doing this install and listening to some good, OS music has brought back a lot of really good memories.
> 
> I'll hit up Shawn K once I determine the amps are indeed in need of work. Thanks a lot.
> 
> Anybody have a new(ish) 500 for sale/trade??
> 
> ~RFOneWatt


Me too. I'll check and see what I have on the 500. I have not found many 500's in really good shape even if the chassis is clean and straight. The blue powder coating seems to peel up and flake much more than the black and golds.


----------



## SilkySlim

If I remember correct Shawn K is about our age and he has mad respect for the old school!


----------



## RFOneWatt

SilkySlim said:


> If I remember correct Shawn K is about our age and he has mad respect for the old school!


I just went through his build logs.... Uhhhh... 

Mad respect for old school along with some mad skills. Dammit boy.

I know where my amps are going if he'll be kind enough to look at them. I'll send a PM.

Yeah, both of these B&G 2500's are minty new. I did notice that one that was sold to me as new has certainly been installed before. Though it's almost hard to tell.. tiny scuff mark. This is the one with the low output, which I did put in my vehicle today once again. I got the same results. 

I need to clear off my bench this week/end.

I have a question about the power supplies in these amps.

Being as tightly regulated as they are does that mean I'm wasting the fact that my vehicle is regulated at 14.5 volts?

Thanks guys,
~RF


----------



## knever3

You aren't wasting because the amp is going to make the same power no matter what voltage, just less current draw at a 14.5V instead of at 12.


----------



## RFOneWatt

knever3 said:


> You aren't wasting because the amp is going to make the same power no matter what voltage, just less current draw at a 14.5V instead of at 12.


Thanks, yes, that of course makes sense. 

I wouldn't change these amps out for nothing less than.. well.. I don't know. If for some reason I was forced to change them out, What compares these days? 

As I said I was very, very impressed when I swapped the Zapco for the Lanzar - the difference _really_ blew me away. 

I was "looking" at some new Audison stuff the other day and was liking what I saw. 

What would YOU guys swap your OS Lanzar for if forced to?

~RF


----------



## knever3

What Zapco did you switch from?


----------



## RFOneWatt

knever3 said:


> What Zapco did you switch from?


When I first installed the system, to test out the electrical, I used a couple old amps I had sitting around before installing my NOS Lanzar stuff. 

I had a Zapco 350.2 on the front components and a Hi-Fonics Zeus IV on the subs.

I have no prior experience with Zapco. It really was a night and day difference... and the Zapco did not sound bad at all. 

I'm also thinking that some of what I heard has to do with the components breaking in, right about the same time I swapped the amp out. 

I think I would have to swap the Lanzar 2200 that is in there now out once again to be able to make definitive statements as the components were only about a week old.

~RF


----------



## smgreen20

Amp wise, today, Phoenix Gold or Audison LRx series. OS amps, Phoenix Gold, LANZAR, Clarion, Kickers ZR/ZX series and MTX.


----------



## SilkySlim

Sorry guys tapatalk alerts suck. I keep thinking nobody has been on here. 

What would I switch out to new? Bar none the only amps Simply are the LP Linear Power. then Genisis. The new zeds are nice but much more clinical. The audisons are ok, the mosconis sound dry and lifeless to me. There was a new tube amp I would consider if they brought it to the states. 

The sad thing about it is the Lanzar's just sound that good against any old or new amps. 

Old amps if no lanzar opti's short list in this order 1st and 2nd gen soundstream's class a, LP, Gilbert tube, PA tube, esx, rodek, ppi art, Hifonics VII viii, Autotek mm or bts, SS ref, orion fx Sx Hcca gen 1&2, Sedona, MTX


----------



## SilkySlim

Ok so has anyone noticed that the Lanzar Opti's play so low and with music just seems to have way more power than rated. Especially on the bottom end. They just seem to have more grunt and play about an octave lower. I swapped an amp that has well over 1/3 more power reputable very nice amp plenty of grunt and it was beating the snot out of a pair of 8's. I put in a 200 bass boost all the way down of course and they played much lower and are going off!!!! I thought the other said amp was stronger on the upper bass 60-90 but it's not the extension was was increased drastically. I don't use much computer Rta's so I can't take a screen shot. When I redo my van in a while (may be early spring) I will take pics and do an in car comparison because I don't feel like watts or dynos give you the whole picture.


----------



## 63flip

I don't think the audio gods want me to do the OS Lanzar install in my Ranger. Finally finished all the sound deadening and started running wire but hit a deer on my way to work yesterday. It may be time put the old girl to pasture. This sucks!


----------



## RFOneWatt

Awww man, that's a bummer. 

And maybe a wake up call for me. I was just about to order a bull bar for that exact reason. 

The last car I kept full coverage on the insurance company totalled solely due to its age and I have a feeling I'm in the same boat with my current daily driver. Damn, I loved that car.

I drive some pretty rural roads on a daily basis and I know my luck is going to run out..

Best of luck to you ... hopefully you're not in a "total" mess. 

@ Silky: I need to do another A/B test with my Zapco's and my 2200's (both rated the same) now that all of my speakers are broken in. Previously I was completely blown away by the difference between the two until I realized that maybe I was hearing the difference in the speakers.

~RF


----------



## 63flip

Ton of Old School Lanzar stuff just came up on evilbay. CPS amps and NIB DC12's


----------



## RFOneWatt

63flip said:


> Ton of Old School Lanzar stuff just came up on evilbay. CPS amps and NIB DC12's


DAMN YOU!


----------



## WestCo

Very excited I have two 2500 opts coming back from ebbco this month. Fully modded and painted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> Ton of Old School Lanzar stuff just came up on evilbay. CPS amps and NIB DC12's


I know the seller personally, he's a good guy. Don't be afraid to deal with him.


----------



## rreed

Maaaaan I was just thinking the other day surely no one has just crapped out and gotten over their OS Lanzar fix. Glad to see at least a few are still active, I haven't gotten any alerts in a ****'s age. Need to do a better job of keeping up.

Well, the other night I got hooched up and made a half-a**ed attempt at a bid on the VERY old LN12 - and won. At that, I need to seek help w/ my Lanzar affliction and sell off some stuff, including that old LN12 for what I have in it + turnaround. I really don't need that extra 12 and probably some of my other stuff, especially after I thin my heard of vehicles that can actually have a stereo in them.

NIB LN12 - $50 to your door. Haven't seen it yet since I haven't even paid for the auction but will report back soon as I can.

Maybe either a NIB LXR10 or LN10 (LN10 needs surround repair), I dunno probably $50-$60 to your door.

Maybe ZR15 (8-ohm), I dunno maybe $60 to your door. Used, has slight tear in cone or surround repaired, slight bend in frame at mounting flange. Works fine, used it as my home theater sub back when I wore a younger man's clothes.

I need to go through my entire collection and make final decisions, see what all I got, etc. If anyone's interested in anything, holler at me I'll make you some screaming deals for the holidays.  Glad to see everyone's still around, missed y'all haha.


----------



## smgreen20

I almost bid on that 12 as I don't have one that old. I have to wait until after Xmas but I'm interested in the LXR10.


----------



## WestCo

My babies are on their way home from the shop!

It's about to be GaMe ON!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rreed

Oh c'maaaahn!! Just in time FOR the holidays!!! CHEAP!!! 

I'll get pics soon as I can, no idea when since I have absolutely zero time to do anything these days. All woofers but the ZR15 will be complete w/ original box, and I think at least 1-2 of of them have their original paperwork too.

I'm thinking I probably have an extra x-over or two I don't need as well; I know i have a BNIB - I actually cut the tape on the plastic to get it out and test it - gray x2. At least a few used x4b's. I can probably survive w/o too many extra x2's and x4b's. Probably around $45 or so shipped.

All for sale only, but might trade the right piece for a good working, non-modified Opti50. Doesn't have to be pretty. I dunno, maybe anyways.

Please don't make me put this stuff on ebay, people.


----------



## smgreen20

Here's most of my LANZAR collection. What's not in the picture (because it's installed in my truck) are two Opti200's, an Opti150, an X3 crossover, two 10" LP subs. Also another Opti160 that I just got off of eBay. That should be here in two days.


----------



## smgreen20

Idon't have an X2 either, so I'd be interested in that too. I have an X4b in the darker of the two colors, need to trade or buy the lighter blue colored version.


----------



## rreed

Greenie I spent a good amount of time on the potty thumbing through your Lanzar collection pics this morning. I officially hate you.  I know I have at least (2) x2's, possibly three. I'll PM you. Also a beat-up gray x4b that may or may not have volume issues; "works" but seems somewhat muted but again, I have no time on my hands at all to look at stuff, I just swapped it out for one of my other x4b's and was on my way. We could maybe swap one of my gray x4b's for your black one; I do have a known-good gray x4b. I like the black processors better than gray.


----------



## smgreen20

And I'm after the gray over the black. I'm in no hurry, get done what's on your plate and we can get together on things then.


----------



## SUX 2BU

How is the newer stuff? I got a line on a Optix-3B 3-way active xover for $80. Is it a decent piece? Looking to replace my old Alpine 3656 that is having some issues. Don't want anything noisy obviously!


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> Here's most of my LANZAR collection. What's not in the picture (because it's installed in my truck) are two Opti200's, an Opti150, an X3 crossover, two 10" LP subs. Also another Opti160 that I just got off of eBay. That should be here in two days.


Hey any chance you have a LP15 4 ohm you want to get rid of. I have two but one has a loose voice coil.


----------



## smgreen20

No, I'm still looking for one to add to my collection. It's the only LP I don't have.


----------



## RFOneWatt

I've got a 2500 that should be on the way back from Mr. ShawnK in good time and another ready to go out him. These are the two that were NOS and had issues out of the box. (one with low output and the other with no output)

Shawn is most certainly a VERY pleasant individual to work with and really knows his stuff. Thanks for sending me in the right direction guys!

I've got a few Lanzar pieces that I'm looking for (old black/red amps, specifically) and a few pieces I'd be willing to trade/sell. (EQ,Preamp, etc.)

Anybody that is interested in swapping/trading anything feel free to PM.

~RF


----------



## rreed

That bnib ln12 i just won for a song just showed up. Holy freaking crap it is perfect cherry virgin. Never mounted, never been hooked up. Complete w paperwork. Pics later but holy freaking crap.


----------



## vwguy383

RFOneWatt said:


> I've got a 2500 that should be on the way back from Mr. ShawnK in good time and another ready to go out him. These are the two that were NOS and had issues out of the box. (one with low output and the other with no output)
> 
> Shawn is most certainly a VERY pleasant individual to work with and really knows his stuff. Thanks for sending me in the right direction guys!
> 
> I've got a few Lanzar pieces that I'm looking for (old black/red amps, specifically) and a few pieces I'd be willing to trade/sell. (EQ,Preamp, etc.)
> 
> Anybody that is interested in swapping/trading anything feel free to PM.
> 
> ~RF


Those low output ones you just had repaired. By chance were they on eBay? I thought I remember seeing some like that and couldn't believe that they could be bad out of the box. Did Shawn say what was wrong with them?


----------



## vwguy383

Also, back in the day in car audio magazine there was an Orange step side truck that had a blow though and plexiglass sub boxes in the bed of the truck. Does anyone remember that one? It was an advertisement of a brand and had a bunch of trophies with a guy kneeling by it. By chance was that a Lanzar truck? I want to say it was, but not sure. Anyone have any info or pictures of it.

Thanks
Justin


----------



## rreed

My new lust. It is absolutely exquisite, completely virgin, hardly even a spec of dust on it. Mounting holes are virgin and the terminals have no signs any connectors have ever been on it. Surround is good and supple, doesn't feel paper thin and fragile like my orange surround ZR10 did - that tore the first time I test fired it.  Box is a little beat-up w/ some excess packing tape on it, but it IS 20 years old. Spec and warranty sheets look and feel as brand spanking new as the woofer. I know I said I was going to turn it around and sell it right away but I can't. I just can't. I have to hear it. Problem is I don't know how, I don't have the hard to run screws through it. Need to find a clamp-style mounting ring of some sort that would clamp it down around the outer cardboard gasket rather than screws through it. Oh and after leaving it out for a bit the surround rounded out, doesn't have that flat spot you can see in the pic. These were from when I had just opened the box this evening.

Greenie I have some rough pics of my two gray 4xb's for you, but it's bed time.


----------



## smgreen20

No problem. I'll get with you tomorrow.


----------



## rreed

Doesn't look like you can attach images in PM's.  Some crummy pics of my two gray x4b's. After I got them down the other day I saw one of them had the sub gain at 0 while the other was at 12 so that might have explained why I thought it wasn't putting out any volume, I think at the time I was in a hurry and didn't think to dial in the x-over gain. I'd still need to test it though to be sure. That one has a couple small rust spots on it and some other nicks and scratches. The other one is in good shape and does work fine but the silk screening does have an occasional nick and scratch in it, if you're picky. I'll have to dig further to find my other x2.


----------



## rreed

Some teaser pics of my BNIB x2, I was perched on a ladder when the wife and boys came home so didn't get it down. Oh and the boxes to my LXR and orange surround ZR 10's sitting atop a couple of my 2050's. I still have the original box to one of my other 2050's on the shelf as well.


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks rreed. Yesterday got away from me. I'm now heading into work.


----------



## RFOneWatt

vwguy383 said:


> Those low output ones you just had repaired. By chance were they on eBay? I thought I remember seeing some like that and couldn't believe that they could be bad out of the box. Did Shawn say what was wrong with them?


Nope, not from E-Bay. 

They were part of a package deal I made a few years ago. 

They were sold to me as new in box (old stock) however one had been installed before (could BARELY tell) and the other was indeed brand new. Everything else that I got at that same time (that I've checked so far) has been NIB. There is still quite a bit I haven't opened though, honestly. The seller wasn't being dishonest but I MAY have mentioned something had I not waited three years to open the box.

Shawn only has the one 2500 right now (and a 200 I sent for fun) - the other 2500 will be on the way in the next few days. He hasn't said what's wrong yet (he's only had them a couple days) but said he ordered some parts and will know shortly.. 

He did say he's pretty sure he knows what's up though. 

On the 2500's I am also having him upgrade all of the capacitors and various other components per his suggestions.

Yay!

This just bugs me...can ya spot the oddball 










Excuse the mess, this was before I cleaned everything up. Picture a nice, new, black 500 in it's place.

~RF


----------



## 63flip

Finally got an E-30 for my collection. I'll get some pics soon. 

The Danger Ranger survived the dear hit but I don't think I'm going to be doing the huge OS Lanzar install in it. Kinda bums me out. I've really wanted to hear the set up I've put together. Maybe something scaled down with a pair of 8's or 10's. I just don't know if it's going to be around long enough to justify the work and expense.


----------



## rreed

There... Is a bnib ln10 on the bay right now. Someone please go buy it.


----------



## vwguy383

rreed said:


> There... Is a bnib ln10 on the bay right now. Someone please go buy it.


Link?


----------



## rreed

Search the ebays for ln-10s it'll shiw up. Can't link from my phone sorry. Price isn't too terrible either for bnib.


----------



## smgreen20

rreed said:


> There... Is a bnib ln10 on the bay right now. Someone please go buy it.


I almost did. But there's an LP12-4 I'm looking at too and could use it, as well a 25th SE kicker S12d. What to do, what to do.....


----------



## rreed

Aaaaaand there is ANOTHER LN-12S now, has torn but repaired surround. For cheap.  At the time I'm trying to kick my addiction... Somebody please buy these so I don't have to. Really, please.

1 New Old School Lanzar LN 12S 12" Subwoofer RARE Vinatge NOS Made in The USA | eBay

1 New Old School Lanzar LN 10S 10" Subwoofer RARE Vinatge NOS Made in The USA | eBay


----------



## rreed

Decided I've had enough waiting for the right moment, for surplus time on my hands to show up, etc. and went out and started prepping to get the rest of my amps mounted up. Put in one screw where the tweeters' 2050 will land. Poked, measured, and looked around for where the 160 and 200 will go. Found myself wishing I had brung at least the 2050 so I could actually MOUNT it but oh well, perhaps tomorrow. Also found myself wishing I had an ice cold beer in my hand while I was doing it but I already got a few wise cracks about drinking in the parking lot at work by passing coworkers. I think from now on my lunch hour is going to be the only time I'll get to work on my stereo. Didn't realize how much of a cobbled up bird's nest mess my wiring ended up under the two back seats, guess that's what happens when you're all, ooo toys! Must, install, quickly, and listen to music through Lanzar amplifiers!

I think the 200, 160, and 2050 will JUST fit across the backs of the back seats, w/ about 1/2"-3/4" between them to allow wires to run in and out.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm in the same boat, most for me is it's too cold for me to want to work on it. I'm planning to put in an Opti160, Opti200 and an Opti500.


----------



## rreed

You need a crossover. That you bought from me. Cheap.  And an LXR10 and ZR10.  Say, $120 all shipped?


----------



## smgreen20

You're killing me rreed, I'm on a spending hold until after Xmas. Come December, I get hammered financially. 2 birthdays and Xmas in December, then a birthday in January and one in February.


----------



## rreed

You can't miss $45?? Shipped???  x2, x4b, LXR10, the ZR10 does need surround repair, but still $45 shipped. If I end up having it repaired that's going to be a keeper because I'm sure the surround repair will run $25-$50 easily if I have it done. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to butcher up a mint ZR10 myself. Don't forget that 8 ohm ZR15. Make an offer I can't refuse for it, might even take trades. 

My BNIB x2 I'll probably need $55 though, I'm sure I paid more than that but since I use my stuff I don't have much use for such a museum piece. Here's another pic of the good but slightly nicked here and there gray x4b.


----------



## rreed

Dangit, I love it when I get my amp, screws, drill, everything all ready to go, and my drill says "MREEEwwwwrrrrr..." One screw, I got ONE SCREW in my 2050 today and my drill battery craps out. Awesome. On another note, I bumped the RCA cable to the subwoofer channel on my amp and my ZR12 goes "BAH-WHOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM" as apparently it's been loose for who knows how long and I've only been running on one side of my rear subwoofer channel. Also awesome. :mean:


----------



## RFOneWatt

So... sitting at a stop light on the way home from work today..... 

BAM.. rear ended by a drunk.

Pushed me into a cop that was sitting in front of me.

Verdict? They are probably going to total my Jeep because of it's age. ARGH. (we'll see next week, this just happened with the hour)

I'm kinda jacked up (physically, I was hit at about 50) and I didn't get a chance to check out the equipment yet... but.. the audio book I was listening to when I got rear ended was still playing after the accident.

Doesn't mean much though... those amps would probably still play if they had been pushed up under the hood... 

SIGH.. 

~RF


----------



## smgreen20

Sorry to hear that. Hope everything works out in your favor.


----------



## Dawgless

Yeah, hopefully the drunk had insurance... I'm gonna guess that his driving experience is pretty well done for some time, since there was a cop involved. 

Glad to hear you walked away from it. Hopefully there won't be any permanent issues.


----------



## 63flip

^^glad nobody was hurt.^^

I've tried all afternoon to add a pic of the newest addition and it keeps timing out. Maybe tomorrow.


----------



## rreed

Dang, glad you're okay enough to walk away from it. What jeep were you running? I have a pile of old ones so just curious. Hope the insurance and financials come out okay amd the cop didnt ticket you for rear ending him. Some places will do that regardless of who a**-plowed you into the car in front of you.


----------



## SilkySlim

Man that stinks I hope you're ok I had something similar happen to me. I didn't realize until that night how bad it really was. It took about an hour for the police to show up at least you didn't have to wait for them? Good luck bud.


----------



## SilkySlim

Usually you ok if at a deadstop when you are hit. 
Ok guys it's been a crazy few months but I should be checking in more now. Looks like I have missed quite a bit.


----------



## SilkySlim

smgreen20 said:


> Here's most of my LANZAR collection. What's not in the picture (because it's installed in my truck) are two Opti200's, an Opti150, an X3 crossover, two 10" LP subs. Also another Opti160 that I just got off of eBay. That should be here in two days.


I just figured out that I need a spare Lanzar room too!


----------



## SilkySlim

Westco how did your 2500 turn out would love to here the review.


----------



## DBlevel

New addition to the family..........



This is actually only the second opti Lanzar amp I've ever owned. I had a blue opti 2200 years ago, long time ago! Excited to put this one to use in a few weeks!


----------



## WestCo

SilkySlim said:


> Westco how did your 2500 turn out would love to here the review.


They are in transit... or so I have been told. 
Still waiting on tracking.


----------



## WestCo

DBlevel said:


> New addition to the family..........
> 
> 
> 
> This is actually only the second opti Lanzar amp I've ever owned. I had a blue opti 2200 years ago, long time ago! Excited to put this one to use in a few weeks!


YES! THE 2500! Activate BEAST mode! She is super clean 2!


----------



## SilkySlim

DBlevel said:


> New addition to the family..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is actually only the second opti Lanzar amp I've ever owned. I had a blue opti 2200 years ago, long time ago! Excited to put this one to use in a few weeks!



Congrats you have finally joined the club. You may never go back.


----------



## SilkySlim

WestCo said:


> YES! THE 2500! Activate BEAST mode! She is super clean 2!



Can't wait to hear the verdict.


----------



## smgreen20

On December 28th, my work schedule changes again. I will now start an every other type thing. Where I work 3 on, 2 off, 2 on, 2 off, 2 on, 3 off,. I'm thinking about what two days I can to take off so I can work on the stereo and basically have a whole week off. LANZAR Opti500, Opti200 and an Opti160. Toying with what subs to use still, my LANZAR LP10's, LP12 or my Clarion 12. I miss the Clarion sub, it's a beast.


----------



## 63flip

Check out this auction! Never seen one of these. Too bad I spent the day yesterday ordering parts for my 63 t-bird. I drained my paypal account. Hope someone on here picks it up!


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221636077145


----------



## smgreen20

Would love to have one. There was some discussion about these some time ago. It's believed that PPI made those amps for LANZAR before they started making their own amps. This has been all but 100% confirmed. I have a scanned copy of the brochures for those amps.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Would love to have one. There was some discussion about these some time ago. It's believed that PPI made those amps for LANZAR before they started making their own amps. This has been all but 100% confirmed. I have a scanned copy of the brochures for those amps.


 Someone bought it, the auction ended. If it was someone here I'd love to see some real good pics of it. 

The heat sink on it looks like an LXR series but I guess it must have pre-dated them? PPI must have just provided the guts if they built them. Everything else PPI built with other names looked just like there amps with a different name on them and color.


----------



## vwguy383

It looks for sale too me still?


----------



## smgreen20

Do you have link? The link provided above shows that it's sold. I typed in the description given on eBay and found nothing.


----------



## DragonMouse

I'm looking for the Opti drive xxx.2 series amps.. 

Does anyone have any info? Especially about the "designed and manufactured in the USA" on the heatsink.. Looking to buy.

regards


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Do you have link? The link provided above shows that it's sold. I typed in the description given on eBay and found nothing.


It sold. I scrolled thru every Lanzar listing just to double check. 


Was it someone on here that snagged it?????


----------



## 63flip

DragonMouse said:


> I'm looking for the Opti drive xxx.2 series amps..
> 
> Does anyone have any info? Especially about the "designed and manufactured in the USA" on the heatsink.. Looking to buy.
> 
> regards


Those are a little new for most of the guys on here. Are those also like the SL series? If I'm not mistaken those are the Zed designed Lanzars. Some of the last built in the USA b-4 they were bought out. Most of us collect and run the Competition Performace Series (black & gold) and earlier. There's usually one or two on Evilbay for sale. You might get lucky and find someone that ships international. Good luck!


----------



## DragonMouse

63flip said:


> Those are a little new for most of the guys on here. Are those also like the SL series? If I'm not mistaken those are the Zed designed Lanzars. Some of the last built in the USA b-4 they were bought out. Most of us collect and run the Competition Performace Series (black & gold) and earlier. There's usually one or two on Evilbay for sale. You might get lucky and find someone that ships international. Good luck!


Yes, those amps, designed by ZED.. 

I wouldn't mind getting my hands on even older/better models.
Will check the web even more.


----------



## jpsandberg

DragonMouse said:


> Yes, those amps, designed by ZED..
> 
> I wouldn't mind getting my hands on even older/better models.
> Will check the web even more.


FWIW, I talked to Stephen Mantz a few years back to see if he would repair one of what I thought was a 'ZED designed' Lanzar amp and he said he never designed an amp for Lanzar..


----------



## DragonMouse

... well, what can I say.. I guess I was mislead then.


----------



## bkjay

DragonMouse said:


> ... well, what can I say.. I guess I was mislead then.


Wow I thought so too! I just looked on Ampguts and the only thing I see is Handcrafted in USA.


----------



## smgreen20

That's news to a lot of us. As most of us thought he had part in the silver series Optis, like the Opti500.2 and the likes. Thanks for the info.


----------



## vwguy383

Maybe he didnt design the amps and just built them for them. Im pretty sure the silver ones with a hump on top was built by him. When they went flat is when they quit with ZED.


----------



## hodgesdodges

Need information on the black Lanzar Optidrive 2500 from like 96-97..im buying one that is non working and have received a estimate of $40-$100 for repair..im buying it for $100 bill and she is a beauty...my question is...is this amp a 4ohm mono amp at most or will she run in 2ohm without frying? Also what kind of numbers can I expect real world at 12v? Thanks guys..


----------



## 63flip

hodgesdodges said:


> Need information on the black Lanzar Optidrive 2500 from like 96-97..im buying one that is non working and have received a estimate of $40-$100 for repair..im buying it for $100 bill and she is a beauty...my question is...is this amp a 4ohm mono amp at most or will she run in 2ohm without frying? Also what kind of numbers can I expect real world at 12v? Thanks guys..



Wow. It's been a while since anyone's added to this thread, myself included. Busy holidays. 

I believe Lanzar only recommends 4ohm mono on the 2500. The output on that amp will be pretty much spot on with Lanzars specs also. Sounds like you got a nice one for the money.


----------



## bigdwiz

Here's a couple of cool Lanzars from back in the day..Opti 50c vs Opti Plus 500

The Opti 500 will go on the Dyno soon, may compare it to a Zeus VIII


----------



## DBlevel

I'd like to see how it compares to the Zeus VIII myself........


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> Wow. It's been a while since anyone's added to this thread, myself included. Busy holidays.
> 
> I believe Lanzar only recommends 4ohm mono on the 2500. The output on that amp will be pretty much spot on with Lanzars specs also. Sounds like you got a nice one for the money.


LANZAR states that you can run 2 ohms mono, 1 stereo to all the Opti amps (At least for this era) as long as,
1) You have a sufficient enough electrical system
2) Put fans on the amp/s to help remove/wick the heat away.


Edit: Didn't quote/copy/paste right. That was also in reply to hodgesdodges. The real world numbers 12v will be the same as they are at 14v, <as flip stated, because these are so tightly regulated.


----------



## smgreen20

To liven this thread up a bit. Just a wee little lab at 22.5w x 2 @ 4 ohms, 45w x 2 @ 2 ohms.


----------



## 63flip

Finally figured out how to add pics without doing the thumbnail. I've got a bunch of gear I've wanted share pics of, so here goes.


----------



## 63flip

My amps and signal processors.


----------



## 63flip

....and a 1993 dealer brochure.


----------



## smgreen20

Nice looking 50c, and those DC comps, mmmmm.


----------



## 63flip

Thanks. Both are NIB. 

........on a completely unrelated topic. There's an auction on Evilbay for a PLUS 100 like I've seen once b-4. It was an eBay auction too, but it was gone real fast. Looks kinda like an LXR heat sink. Anyone else know anything about these. The price seems pretty high to me. It would interest me if they cut it in half. Maybe they will if know one bites. Here's a link to the auction. 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=191512959952


----------



## smgreen20

I know the seller, he's offered it to me at a slightly lower price first but I'm unemployed do I don't have the funds to buy it. Now, in a month's time I would.


----------



## rreed

I have the same brochure. Haha bret michaels, ferraris, etc. great stuff.


----------



## swat2380

rreed said:


> I have the same brochure. Haha bret michaels, ferraris, etc. great stuff.


Wow memories. My familys shop carried Lanzar back in those days. We were actually robbed by our installer and when my dad got out of the biz he left like 40NIB optis, speakers, Orion, Fosgate equipment etc. in evidence. Bet that was a hell of an auction when the police sold it off.


----------



## smgreen20

Wow. 
Rreed, I too have that same brochure.


----------



## rreed

My latest Lanzar build.


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> My latest Lanzar build.




I'm sure you took the time to thoroughly empty the enclosure b-4 mounting your speaker!!


----------



## 63flip

Check this out on evilbay. Opti g4s noise gates, new $14.95 shipped. Listing says there's 10+ available. 


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=321694396265


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks for finding that and posting it. I just bought 2 of them. I might get 2 more tomorrow, I'll have to wait and see.


----------



## vwguy383

smgreen20 said:


> Thanks for finding that and posting it. I just bought 2 of them. I might get 2 more tomorrow, I'll have to wait and see.



Oh just buy all ten already!! You know you want too! What do these do anyways? Take any noise out of the signal path?


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Thanks for finding that and posting it. I just bought 2 of them. I might get 2 more tomorrow, I'll have to wait and see.


I'm glad I could I could help. I figured guys would jump on them since they're damn near giving them away. I bet those were over $200 each when they were "new". 


I just opened a box containing the two newest additions to the OS Lanzar collection. First off I about flipped my lid. The below amps were in one box twice the size they needed with packing consisting of one section of newspaper ON TOP OF THEM! The black amp was just sitting on top of the LXR100. How both of them weren't destroyed on the trip from Cali to Indiana is beyond me. 

These are my first OS Lanzars that aren't the black and gold CPS series. The addiction continues to grow. Who new the CPS amps were a "gateway" drug?


----------



## smgreen20

I was the other bidder on the 100-S. I was thinking about the LXR100 but opted out as I already have one that's nib. I want to see some gut shots of the 100-S please. Glad you got them though.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> I want to see some gut shots of the 100-S please.


...ask and ye shall receive. Here's some detailed pics of the 100-S. 






This thing felt as heavy as a boat anchor. After I pulled the side plate off I saw why. The thinnest spot on that heat sink is 1/4" thick. 






...signed by the artist.


----------



## smgreen20

...or the QC guy.


----------



## cleansoundz

Good stuff


----------



## 63flip

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring harness for this Lanzar 100-S? It's a 6 pin. Right, left channels, and remote with one open. It works and I would like to be able to use it without modifying it.


----------



## smgreen20

We have an electronics store that sells plugs so you can make your own, but I'd need the amp in hand to check fit of the plug. That's what I did for my LZ240, which I haven't done yet. Bought, but not made.


----------



## 63flip

I might have to try a couple places in town then. Maybe I can get one locally. There's a 50 on EBay now with the plug. It's got a pretty high opening bid and is pretty rough too. Way to much to spend just to have the plug.


----------



## rambronco

My new babies arrived today. Getting in late on this thread for sure but not a stranger to car audio (25+ years) and no stranger to the Lanzar Opti's of old. The Blues and the Blacks hit the scene shortly after I started my obsession with car audio and will always have a place with me. I will admit I have a couple manufactures/series that may be a little closer but its the Opti's in which I plan to use for my entire old school build with. So with that hello to all you Opti lovers. Pic of a couple recent purchases for a planned old school build.


----------



## 1996blackmax

Congrats on the new acquisitions!


----------



## smgreen20

Welcome ram.

I just changed things up a bit in my install. Just Took out my 150 and both my 200's and put in their place a 160 and a 500. I'm surprised at how robust the 160 is for a 40 x 4.


----------



## rambronco

smgreen20 said:


> Welcome ram.
> 
> I just changed things up a bit in my install. Just Took out my 150 and both my 200's and put in their place a 160 and a 500. I'm surprised at how robust the 160 is for a 40 x 4.


Thank you. I saw my first 6200 a while back and have been looking around more out of curiosity than anything and they seem to be pretty scarce....so of course I want one lol.


----------



## Tony Trunknocka

Got a Lansar Opti Drive 50C..... Any Offers?


----------



## smgreen20

Tony Trunknocka said:


> Got a Lansar Opti Drive 50C..... Any Offers?


Is it the same one listed on ebay? 

Pics of the amp?
No one would want to make an offer if they,
A) Can't see that you physically have it and 
B) Can't see its condition.


----------



## Tony Trunknocka

I'll repost it later with pics.


----------



## 63flip

If anyone is looking for a CPS Series x3 there's one on evilbay with a pretty fair BIN. Looks to be in really good condition. Link below. 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291450203812


----------



## DragonMouse

I'm still trying to get my hands on another 500.2 ..


----------



## rreed

My latest a.d.d. Just popped the cherry on it, very gently mounted (yes in the cheap too small prefab truck box) barely seating the #10 machine screws on the woofer and hardly seating the plastic waffle grill clamps. It'll get 100 watts of clean lanzar power here in a few days or so until someone steps up to take it iff my hands for a steal shipped.


----------



## knever3

Man that brings back memories, I loved my Lanzar LXR 12's. Those paper cones and high sensitivity made them easy to drive. I sold them to my friend and someone stole them not too long afterward. They sounded SO good!


----------



## rreed

There's a BNIB set of LXR 12's on the 'bay right now...

And this one is for sale, $45 to your doorstep.  Even comes w/ its pedigree in its original box. greenie/silky either of y'all interested? This is its first mount and was done very gently. I haven't even fired it yet (other than naked test when I first got it).

I'd also love to trade it for a good black/gold x3 or x4b. Preferably an x3.


----------



## smgreen20

rreed said:


> There's a BNIB set of LXR 12's on the 'bay right now...
> 
> And this one is for sale, $45 to your doorstep.  Even comes w/ its pedigree in its original box. greenie/silky either of y'all interested? This is its first mount and was done very gently. I haven't even fired it yet (other than naked test when I first got it).
> 
> I'd also love to trade it for a good black/gold x3 or x4b. Preferably an x3.


Is it a 10"? 
I have to get my truck fixed first and if the money is left over, I'd love to have it. I have a nib 10 and would like another one to go with it. Should be about 2 weeks and it should be done.


----------



## rreed

Hes sir, 10". Would love to see it paired up w another lxr 10 hanging off an lxr 200.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm trying to find another LXR200. I don't have one currently, but it was the first amp I ever had and it's the only one from the LXR lineup I'm missing.

Sadly the LXR subs are 4 ohms so two on any one of the LXR amps in mono won't fly. Maybe two LXR100's, one per sub..... I do have two LXR50's. Tests show those to do about 125w x 1 @ 4 ohms. 

If you know the location of an LXR200, please let me know.

Edit: Oh yeah, do you have link to the LXR 12's on eBay? I looked with no luck.


----------



## rreed

Here you go, buddy.  2 Lanzar SE Series 12" Subwoofers Conrol Very RARE 1990&apos;s Vintage Made in USA | eBay Oh crap, those are SE's!! Sorry I'm an idiot! 

I may be old school thinking, I was figuring on one woofer per channel, basic 100x2 stereo. That's what we did w/ my buddy's Nissan pickup way back in the day w/ two SE 10's. It rocked the dola mite. So smooth and warm. There is also an LXR 50 on the bay Old School Lanzar LXR 50 MOSFET Amp Made in USA Sound Quality RARE | eBay I think we did one of those on the 6 1/2's in his front doors. To this day he still kicks himself for getting rid of that system.

I ran that little LXR 10 for a few days, man that thing is a nice smooth little woofer! Not afraid at all to reach down deep. I just sampled a gamut of my music from jazz to metal to bass to old video game music (yes seriously). Very consistent even in that too small $17 prefab truck box w/ no fill or anything. No real dips or spikes or anything. I bet in its proper box it'd be really great. I prefer my ZR 12's though and never really have cared for 10" woofers of any sort, just my preference, and would love to see it go to a good home.


----------



## smgreen20

Changed the install over the last two weeks.

The full set-up:
HU: Clarion NX604
Processing: LANZAR E30, LANZAR X3, Clarion BCX100
AMPS: Clarion APA4200 (50w x 4 @ 4 ohms), Audiopipe APMI-1500 (1414w x 1 @ 1 ohm)
Front speakers (still under construction): Sundown Audio 2.75" fullrange (~750Hz-20kHz), 6 1/2" Silver Flutes (60Hz-~750Hz) *Will be adding Memphis PR series tweeters at 10kHz and up*
Rear speakers: NONE
SUB: Sundown Audio SA10v2D2 (wired at 1 ohm)

The EQ almost isn't needed, but I've done some quick adjusting and it sounds great and gets LOUD and stays clean the whole time. Also I need to trim and add some carpet around the sub and I'm going to add a cover w/a plexi window over the sub amp on the box with fans to aid in cooling and to cover the wires.










]


----------



## Buickmike

So I think my old Opti Drives are going to go back into service in my Grand National. The 50 will run the mids / highs and the 100 will drive the 2 10" RF Audiophile subs. I mocked it up and it sounds awesome. 

Only thing is that I will be bridging the 100 to a 2 ohm load to get the power I need out of it. I've beat the hell out of this one before and it took it other than one incident (pair of pro plus 12"s back in the day). It won't see the same duty now. I think it will be fine due to it having more ventilation. Any concerns?


----------



## smgreen20

Buickmike said:


> So I think my old Opti Drives are going to go back into service in my Grand National. The 50 will run the mids / highs and the 100 will drive the 2 10" RF Audiophile subs. I mocked it up and it sounds awesome.
> 
> Only thing is that I will be bridging the 100 to a 2 ohm load to get the power I need out of it. I've beat the hell out of this one before and it took it other than one incident (pair of pro plus 12"s back in the day). It won't see the same duty now. I think it will be fine due to it having more ventilation. Any concerns?


Post pics when installed. Only thing is, keep the 100 cool and it'll be fine at 2 ohms. You'll get about 300 wrms out of it at 2 ohms mono.


----------



## old school opti

How's it going guys im in need of major help. I have a opti 200 with a burnt resistor. I need a schematic or a good pic of the board any help would be appreciated.


----------



## smgreen20

old school opti said:


> How's it going guys im in need of major help. I have a opti 200 with a burnt resistor. I need a schematic or a good pic of the board any help would be appreciated.


A pic of what resistor would help us. Also go to ampguts.com, there's pics there of a 200 board, not sure if it's good enough for you to get what you need.


----------



## rreed

Greenie, awesome job on the carpeting. Have you expermented w placing a single woofer on driver vs passenger side in an exteded cab pickup? Any details on how you do your carpeting? Man that looks slick and sharp. Very professional


----------



## smgreen20

Thanks rreed, I've had subs in this truck all over the place. My favorite spot is up or down firing with the sub on the passenger's side and the port firing straight back. Reason is when the sub is behind me I tend to localize it more. I'm not sure if it's because I really can or if it's because I know it's right there. 

I installed it this way for the simple reason that I wanted the open/leftover space to be at the 3rd door. I didn't port straight back as I didn't want any "bends" in the port, just a straight shot.

Carpeting, a hammer of all things is my secret weapon. With thicker carpet the seams are almost unnoticeable, as compared to the thinner stuff like what I used (it was free), but I use the hammer lightly on the seams to blend them together better.


----------



## 63flip

I'll second rreed. Looks good!!


----------



## rreed

Set of bnib old white box 6x9's on the bay right now for $119. Somebody please go buy these.


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> Set of bnib old white box 6x9's on the bay right now for $119. Somebody please go buy these.



http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111699059498&globalID=EBAY-US 


I second that. I'll make 1 step easier. Here's the link to them. I would love to have them but I just bought a set of PPI "m" and "am" amps. Plus my '63 Bird seems to be developing transmission problems.


----------



## smgreen20

I saw those, if I had the money, they'd be mine already.


----------



## 63flip

I just got this SE12 the other day and was a bit surprised when I opened the box. I know these were the last ones made in USA but I thought these were only single 4 or 8 ohm coil subs. 







....I've also got some early Lanzar stuff coming that I'll share as soon as I get it.


----------



## smgreen20

A dual 6, sweet. You better post pics of that other stuff you get.....or I'll hunt you down.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> A dual 6, sweet. You better post pics of that other stuff you get.....or I'll hunt you down.



Here goes....









.....a pair of LXR 12's and a nice little Opti 100 TMS.


----------



## smgreen20

Were those 12s from eBay? I was tempted to go for them but other things came up, rather quickly and out of the blue. That was a great price for those too. That 100 would push them nicely.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Were those 12s from eBay? I was tempted to go for them but other things came up, rather quickly and out of the blue. That was a great price for those too. That 100 would push them nicely.


Yes, I won them for $62 shipped. I'd won some other auctions from that seller and knew they would be packed good. I'm always nervous when it comes to subs and the way some are packed. 

I'm keeping my eyes open for a nice sealed enclosure for them, and a couple other sets of 12's I have. Or I may build one. I'd like to run some of this gear in my truck.


----------



## smgreen20

We just might have to get together sometime soon and look at each others gear/collection. I'd go to the "secret store" this year but I don't think I'm going to have the funds this time. Partly due to job changes and the thing that just came out of the blue. My xmas came early this year from my parents, and they're the ones that usually hand me cash and say "here, add to the collection".


----------



## smgreen20

BTW, do you need the/a T/S sheet for those? I have one if you do. I can copy it and mail it to you. LMK in a PM.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> We just might have to get together sometime soon and look at each others gear/collection. I'd go to the "secret store" this year but I don't think I'm going to have the funds this time. Partly due to job changes and the thing that just came out of the blue. My xmas came early this year from my parents, and they're the ones that usually hand me cash and say "here, add to the collection".



Sounds like a good idea. If you still have it my number hasn't changed. I'm still up all night working. 

You don't have to worry about "the store", he's still got tons of goodies stashed away on those shelves!


----------



## smgreen20

Good to know about the honey hole. Here's my latest piece. Great deal on this baby. An AMC50, nib. Pair it with the ACM160Q, I'd love to do a small install using these someday. 





















































I'd love to get one of each.


----------



## smgreen20

I just acquired this gem today, a LANZAR G2m. Hard to find piece. The two G4s's are both nib and the scuffs on the G2m are not bad at all as the pics look.


----------



## itchnertamatoa




----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Good to know about the honey hole. Here's my latest piece. Great deal on this baby. An AMC50, nib. Pair it with the ACM160Q, I'd love to do a small install using these someday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to get one of each.



I didn't realize they made ACM's for the smaller Opti's. Those have got to be super rare!


----------



## 63flip

I just picked this up a few days back. No box or anything but it pretty mint.


----------



## Buickmike

Some of you may give me flack for this, but I decided to change up my amps since they were pretty beat looking on the outside. I had my friend powder coat them black and another make red vinyl logos for them. Unfortunately he could not cut the numbers and Lanzar logos to original size because of the tiny lettering that goes with those decals. I opted for the big ones on the front and the correct size Lanzar on the top without the other lettering. I can always remove them and go another route, but I think they look cool. They will look even better mounted in the trunk of my GN.


----------



## 63flip

Personally I think they look great. Nothing wrong with a little customization to match an install or vehicle. I've always got my eyes open looking for cheap Opti's with rough paint to do the same thing. I actually did do that with a pair of DC15's I have. I picked them up off CL dirt cheap because the guys kid had pushed in the dust caps. I had them replaced and had vinyl decals made from an old school Lanzar logo. I didn't want just plain black dust caps. They turned out great.


----------



## smgreen20

I actually like the looks of those. I agree with flip, take poor conditioned amps and do your own thing to them. Gives them a new look and purpose in life again.


----------



## 63flip

Here's a pic of one of DC15's I had the custom vinyl logos cut for. It may not be original but they turned out really nice. It brought a pretty sad looking pair of subs back to life.


----------



## Buickmike

They look awesome! I'm digging that old school Crunch 15 in the background. I had a old white letter Pro 15 that I regret selling to this day.


----------



## 63flip

Buickmike said:


> They look awesome! I'm digging that old school Crunch 15 in the background. I had a old white letter Pro 15 that I regret selling to this day.


Thanks. The Crunch is actually an 18" Pro. The JL's in the pic are are 18w6's. The DC is just an itty bitty 15". Unfortunately I sold the Crunch a while back, I too wish I'd kept it. When a bunch of 18" and 15" subs start piling up all over the house the wife gets a little irritated. Lucky for me I just picked up a pair of 10" Crunch Pro's in the loaded band pass enclosure. I put a few pics of them on the O.S. Show Off Thread.


----------



## Buickmike

63flip said:


> Thanks. The Crunch is actually an 18" Pro. The JL's in the pic are are 18w6's. The DC is just an itty bitty 15". Unfortunately I sold the Crunch a while back, I too wish I'd kept it. When a bunch of 18" and 15" subs start piling up all over the house the wife gets a little irritated. Lucky for me I just picked up a pair of 10" Crunch Pro's in the loaded band pass enclosure. I put a few pics of them on the O.S. Show Off Thread.


Cool! I'll check it out. My Pro 15" was really cool. It was not the most musical sub (like my RF Audiophile 10's and Oz 250L's), but damn it was tight, accurate, and hit hard!

Back to Lanzar stuff, I also miss my old pair of Pro Plus 12's. I ran them off the very opti drive 100 amp you see in that pic back in 1992 or '93 bridged 2 ohm and they were so f'in loud that I could not even swallow a drink when bumpin some old school rap. Each sub was in a 1 cu ft sealed enclosure if I remember right. They were in the hatch of a Porsche 924S.


----------



## Buickmike

Buickmike said:


> Some of you may give me flack for this, but I decided to change up my amps since they were pretty beat looking on the outside. I had my friend powder coat them black and another make red vinyl logos for them. Unfortunately he could not cut the numbers and Lanzar logos to original size because of the tiny lettering that goes with those decals. I opted for the big ones on the front and the correct size Lanzar on the top without the other lettering. I can always remove them and go another route, but I think they look cool. They will look even better mounted in the trunk of my GN.


Here they are installed:


----------



## 1996blackmax

Nicely done!


----------



## 63flip

^^^^^Looks good!


----------



## hodgesdodges

Information needed on the Lanzar Optidrive Plus TMS 500.. I can pick one up in like new condition for $250.. Worth it?


----------



## 63flip

hodgesdodges said:


> Information needed on the Lanzar Optidrive Plus TMS 500.. I can pick one up in like new condition for $250.. Worth it?


Welcome aboard! I see you're a fellow Hoosier too. 


In my opinion $250 is a fair price for a very clean working Opti 500. That's average for one in that shape. I've seen nice ones sell for over $300 b-4.


----------



## 63flip

I just put my Opti 100tms into service. I bought an old Blues Trisobaric enclosure and wanted to run it. Specs on it are nonexistent so I figured I'd be safe with the 100. Final impedance on the Blues is 4ohms so I bridged them off the 100. I was literally blown away. The 100 seems like a perfect match and still has headroom. The Blues sound amazing on heavy metal, rock, etc. It's going to stay in my truck a while. No instal pics. Right now it's not pretty. It's "installed" in sense that it's grounded, getting 12v, receiving an audio signal and amplifying it on the way to subs.


----------



## smgreen20

Hodgesdodges, 
$250 for a mint one is a GREAT price, you better jump on it asap. Next to new/mint will go for around $300-350 easy. 


Flip63, Pics man, PICS!!! I want to hear those Blues, never had.


----------



## bcarp

Hello I used to be a member here a long time ago but couldn't look up my old user name. Anyway I ran across this thread looking for info on an old black X4B that I have. I see some of this stuff going cheap and some for reasonable money. Can anyone tell me what it is worth?


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Flip63, Pics man, PICS!!! I want to hear those Blues, never had.



I posted some pics of the Blues in the OS Showoff thread but right now the install is embarrassing. Let me get it cleaned up. 


Now I need your opinion. I've been trying to buy this amp off evilbay for over 2 months now with no success. I've offered $130 + shipping. They're at $200. I can't see going any higher with the condition. So here's my question. Am I low balling at $130? The amp doesn't work and when asked they couldn't tell me anything about why not and its missing the bottom cover. Overall it's pretty rough. They've been trying to sell it with two opti 500's in even worse condition. Two months ago they started out over $600 + shipping for the set. The last two times listed they were down to $390 + shipping for the three. I included the link to the ended sale. Let me know what you think. 



Lanzar Amplifier | eBay 


Oh. The one I'm trying to buy is the odd ball in the middle.


----------



## rreed

It was probably me looking for a black/gold x4b? I am! Mine is crapping out, I think I see a burnt resistor on it but need to look closer. I have a good gray x4b, LXR10, I dunno maybe some other stuff I would trade for a good black x4b. Or coveted x3... 

So anyways, ugh, I wish this board was better about notifying on replies. It's been a while.

How's everyone been? Latest build progress? I mellowed out for a while, been busy, but here lately been diving back in pretty deeply. I need one of those fans for my 160's! Fixing to press the Opti200 I bought off greenie (I think?) a while back into service in the next day or two. Been experimenting to see what placement works best in the cargo area of a wagon/"SUV" type vehicle.


----------



## smgreen20

Just swap the boards in the x4b's. Could do it in less then 10 min, the whole time taking your time.


----------



## 63flip

smgreen20 said:


> Just swap the boards in the x4b's. Could do it in less then 10 min, the whole time taking your time.





Smart thinking!!


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> How's everyone been? Latest build progress? I mellowed out for a while, been busy, but here lately been diving back in pretty deeply. I need one of those fans for my 160's! Fixing to press the Opti200 I bought off greenie (I think?) a while back into service in the next day or two. Been experimenting to see what placement works best in the cargo area of a wagon/"SUV" type vehicle.


Life's been good and busy up in Northern Indiana. The collection continues to grow but I haven't jumped into a full blown install. Lately I've just been toying around with different amp & sub combos in the old Danger Ranger. Had a couple OS Lanzar amps in there. I ran an Opti 100 on a Blues Trisobaric enclosure for about a month then a pair of Earthquake Annihilator 15's on a 500. That only lasted about a day though. The box they were in when I bought them was to big even with the jump seats out of the back. I was chewing on my knees driving. Now I've got a pair of PYLE 10's and an a404 Art Series. 

This spring the the old girl is getting replaced as my daily driver and when it does I will be able to do some sort of monster old school build. I've got to wait because as quickly as I get things done it'll probably be torn apart for a couple months. I've got the gear to do the complete Lanzar build with with CPS amps/processors and DC subs/components. My biggest dilemma is going to be picking which subs to use. I've got the DC15's but I've also got a pair of JL 18w6s (something about 18's in an extended cab Ranger is calling to me) or the secret store has enough 8ohm SE15's I can wire that 50c down low!


----------



## rreed

Thanks, yeah I know I could swap guts if I wanted the black case, but I want the black sound. The grays are a little sharper/tighter while the blacks are a little more warmer/smoother. I'm finding I like the black processors/gray amp combo though. I think I posted here a while back some pics of the guts differences b/t the two. A lot of components are different.

I've farted around w/ finally getting that Opti200 loosely installed, very ghetto running my old ZR12 off one channel and this LXR10 off the other, in cheapy tiny sealed truck boxes. It's obnoxious, I'm not sure what it's going to be like if I build a proper box for both my ZR12's and run off this thing. I may go back to just a single 12 off one of my 2050's again. I dunno. But I really want my working black x4b back.


----------



## smgreen20

To my knowledge, there's no real difference between the black and blue processors. They're all the same but for a few colored parts that their supplier changed over the years.


----------



## rreed

I thought I had posted some pics of the board differences in this thread a while back, but it's gotten so long now somebody would have to be really bored to go find them. 

Some of the components are different (P/N's as well as colors), and I recall finding at least 1-2 circuit paths that were different, leading to different resistors, whatevers, soldered. You had to really look, but it was there. Whatever that means, I dunno, but I saw them anyways.

I have a pile of x2's and x4b's, each in blue/black. I've A/B'ed them a fair amount and they always come out sounding to me as described. I would openly welcome anyone to perform the same test. I've found the same w/ the amp difference, though admittedly it's a couple of 160's vs. 2050's. I only have the one black x4b and last time I was running it, one channel on the subwoofer side started fading out so I removed it and just run the subwoofer out of my HU straight to the amp.

I'm not going to enter this 200 as a fair comparison, even just running off one channel (100 watts into 4 ohms) vs. a 2050 run mono (100 watts into same 4 ohm woofer).


----------



## raini

Hy at all!
My name is Rainer and i´m new here in this awesome forum! i am 39 years old and came from Graz, Austria (no Kangaroos)  My last contact with car hifi is 10 years back (ago, before?). Sorry for my nooby english.
Finished projects:
Build a house, plant 3 trees and make 3 childrens 
Present project:
VW T4 Caravelle ´96 with 3way full active + sub
Partlist:
Optidrive 6200 (black)
Optidrive 2200 (black)
Opti da6 (blue)
Opti g2m (blue)
Opti g4s (blue)
(HiFonics Callisto VIII)

Boston pro highs
Boston pro mids 5"
TangBand W69
Lanzar DC12pro series or HiFonics Planet X12

pics will come soon.
i have read the complete thread (all 45 pages, argh) and i found, what i´m searching for (ca. 0.5 year):
Mr. rreed with his manuals 
Please can you help me? I need the manuals of g2m and g4s. Can you email me?
i would make silly jumps!!
Thanks a lot, man!!

Rainer


----------



## rreed

Welcome aboard raini - holy crap that is quite the setup. Funny you ask, I've been needing to dig up my manuals the last day or two to find the specs on my ZR12 to build a proper box for it. I've never had the G2/G4 processors but I think I may have a manual for the EQ5/30 which I think includes the G2/G4's. I think. I'll find out, might take me a day or two to get those dug out.

Get those pics up!!!


----------



## raini

You´re fast, YeeHAAA! 
No problem, i can wait. All oldschool (incl. car and wife) 
Thank you! 

page 7 is a pic with manuals


----------



## raini

sorry for bad quality (mobile cam)


----------



## 63flip

Welcome aboard!


If rreed doesn't have the manual you need I know I've got it and right were its at.


----------



## raini

Hy and thank you 63flip!
Nice to know 
Same with Opti 6200. The data sheet for jumper configuration is very hard to find in europe
i´ve looked over 2 years. Now i have it.

cheers Raini


----------



## smgreen20

Yes, welcome. I have everything you're asking for on my photobucket page, but I'm on my phone right now and the photobucket app is not behaving properly. So when I get home tonight, I will post those pictures for you that you are asking right here on the site so that way I have shared it with everyone.


----------



## raini

WoooHOOOOO! :rockon:
Really friendly people here!
Thank you
Raini


----------



## raini

Where is the "thank you" button?


----------



## 63flip

I tried to upload a pic of the manual to my photobucket and am having trouble too. One of us will get ig on here soon hopefully.


----------



## smgreen20

Here's mine, I just acquired the control unit (G2M) a few month ago. I got the two slave units (G4S) earlier this year for $15 each, new in box!!! 







































]


----------



## raini

Thank you smgreen20!

It helps a little bit 
One question:
At the g2m is a "external control" jack (L+R). Which signal must be connected? From the headunit (maybe with fader)? If not connected, then the control feed switch is on internal. OK, so far so good. When the switch is on external, which signal i need?

I hope, you understand me an my crapy english :uhoh2:

cheers Raini


Aunty Edith says:

Read carefully and understand.
The g2m "audio input" is one of the "modified" signals from x-over (Callisto). Highs, Mids or Lows (in pic is highs).
The g2m "external control input" is a "clean" fullrange signal from the headunit (JVC KD-SH909R) via Y-split.
Or "audio input" from front channels and "external control input" from rear channels? Maybe fine tuning with fader?

cheers Raini


----------



## raini

Sorry for spaming.
That´s the way:








HU Fader to front for listening music with full force (without rearfill).
HU Fader to rear for ****in´ in the back of the Bulli :whip:
should work...

cheers Raini


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> It was probably me looking for a black/gold x4b? I am! Mine is crapping out, I think I see a burnt resistor on it but need to look closer. I have a good gray x4b, LXR10, I dunno maybe some other stuff I would trade for a good black x4b. Or coveted x3...
> 
> So anyways, ugh, I wish this board was better about notifying on replies. It's been a while.
> 
> How's everyone been? Latest build progress? I mellowed out for a while, been busy, but here lately been diving back in pretty deeply. I need one of those fans for my 160's! Fixing to press the Opti200 I bought off greenie (I think?) a while back into service in the next day or two. Been experimenting to see what placement works best in the cargo area of a wagon/"SUV" type vehicle.




If you're still looking for that black & gold x4b one just popped up on eBay. $66 BIN or Best Offer w/free shipping. Sellers feedback sucks and it's almost all from buying. Thought I'd let you know anyway since it looks to be in great shape. Here's the link. 


Lanzar Optidrive X4B Bass Crossover Processor | eBay


----------



## 63flip

Just got the last component set I'm going to need to do an all DC Series build with black and gold amps/processors.


----------



## rreed

I really wish this board would consistently notify on replies.  Yep thanks flip, that black x4b is on its way. 

Sorry raini, I get 0 time to monkey around w/ this stuff at the house, and I completely spaced on digging out those manuals. Glad somebody here helped you out.

I need to investigate access to the secret store, I've got a couple extra pennies and need to buy some more old Lanzar crap that I don't need and don't have time to mess w/ anyways. :laugh:


----------



## raini

No problem! All manuals in the house.
Thank @all!
cheers Raini

btw: the tsp´s from my HiFonics PlanetX12, where are they?! AHRG
anyone an idea? XD


----------



## BassnTruck

63flip said:


> Just got the last component set I'm going to need to do an all DC Series build with black and gold amps/processors.


Oh come on now, you have had them for a week and a half. :laugh: Hope they work out for you.


----------



## Simon1986

Hi!

I had a OptiDrive 2500 TMS for some years on my midwoofers.
This was and is a really good amplifier.

@raini
Falls du auf der Suche nach was potentem bist, kannst du dich gerne melden.

Regards, Simon


----------



## raini

Der Vollständigkeit halber, ich hab dich schon gefunden!
cheers Raini


----------



## raini

rreed said:


> ... and need to buy some more old Lanzar crap that I don't need and don't have time to mess w/ anyways. :laugh:


Word.


----------



## 63flip

BassnTruck said:


> Oh come on now, you have had them for a week and a half. :laugh: Hope they work out for you.



Unfortunately I have more plans than time. Work, wife, and kids don't leave much time for car audio installs.


----------



## Ultrasonx

Greetings to all- I have finally mustered up the gall to post here on diy after many years spent as my alter ego, a self studied rogue installer sq junkie. Let me say that many on this forum are legends in my opinion, and i truly have enjoyed and appreciated my time spent reading. Thank you!! So my plan is to reconfigure my system after some repairs on my a1200 and really just to change things up. I have been running arts for the last several years. That said, I love my Lanzars best of all, and i am giving some real thought to using my Opti's, switching to some Dc mids, and keeping my horns in place. Recent changes were removal of the Eq31's, and installed DQS 180 Band EQ. Super wide stage out of my horns. I would love to find the TSP for the DC64, and DC54 if any one has them, i spent some time searching but came up empty. Has anyone used these w/horns? Also food for thought, i would entertain a trade on some of my Lanzar equipment for another PPI a1200, and a PPI noise gate. Or two Lanzar noise gates, and interested in any of the big stuff 500, 50c, 6200, in trade. Still undecided between 5 PPI Art's, 5 Opti's, or 8ch pair of Zed Nak. amps. I would consider trading some other gear as well- I have recently been going through storage and listing some things on Fleabay some different SQ stuff

Some pics of the rig 99 Landcruiser- I call it "The Mood Keeper". 
Stealth CD1 pro HLCD, 6 mids, 2 x IDQ15v1, a1200, a600, a300, a100, AC DQS, Eclipse 7200, and some other stuff as well. Bout to get changed up

So here startfile:///media/player file:///media/player/FC30-3DA9/DCIM/121___01/IMG_2048.JPG


----------



## Ultrasonx

fuzzy


----------



## 63flip

paintingit said:


> Greetings to all- I have finally mustered up the gall to post here on diy after many years spent as my alter ego, a self studied rogue installer sq junkie. Let me say that many on this forum are legends in my opinion, and i truly have enjoyed and appreciated my time spent reading. Thank you!! So my plan is to reconfigure my system after some repairs on my a1200 and really just to change things up. I have been running arts for the last several years. That said, I love my Lanzars best of all, and i am giving some real thought to using my Opti's, switching to some Dc mids, and keeping my horns in place. Recent changes were removal of the Eq31's, and installed DQS 180 Band EQ. Super wide stage out of my horns. I would love to find the TSP for the DC64, and DC54 if any one has them, i spent some time searching but came up empty. Has anyone used these w/horns? Also food for thought, i would entertain a trade on some of my Lanzar equipment for another PPI a1200, and a PPI noise gate. Or two Lanzar noise gates, and interested in any of the big stuff 500, 50c, 6200, in trade. Still undecided between 5 PPI Art's, 5 Opti's, or 8ch pair of Zed Nak. amps. I would consider trading some other gear as well- I have recently been going through storage and listing some things on Fleabay some different SQ stuff
> 
> Some pics of the rig 99 Landcruiser- I call it "The Mood Keeper".
> Stealth CD1 pro HLCD, 6 mids, 2 x IDQ15v1, a1200, a600, a300, a100, AC DQS, Eclipse 7200, and some other stuff as well. Bout to get changed up
> 
> So here startfile:///media/player file:///media/player/FC30-3DA9/DCIM/121___01/IMG_2048.JPG



Welcome aboard. 

I've got the 6" and 5" DC component sets NIB. I should be able to dig the manuals out and post the specs for the drivers.


----------



## Ultrasonx

Thank You sir-= That would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## rreed

Ugh.. There's a beat-up x3 on the 'bay right now for around $56 shipped, OBO. I tried but gave up after their final counter pretty much ended up being around $1 less than their original listing! Hope it's nobody on here.


----------



## smgreen20

Paintingit, welcome.

I love that LANZAR LZ500, mmmmm. I have the 4ch brothern, the LZ240. I'd love to see and hear that thing. I collect the LANZAR LXR series amps (the white ones) and the bluish Optis like your 50 and whatever processors I can get.


----------



## Ultrasonx

Nice Brother-
I had my LZ500 set up just the other day to enjoy. Was behind a set of Canton Speakers. Exceptionally Good Sounding Amps Indeed. Thanks for welcoming me to the party!


----------



## 63flip

Ultrasonx said:


> Thank You sir-= That would be greatly appreciated!


I didn't forget about you, busy weekend. Here goes. Hope it helps.


----------



## Ultrasonx

Thank You Kindly 63flip. Very helpful for enclosure sizes. I think they will work well in the custom door pods and kicks that i built and had been using for different mids. I was hoping to see the sensitivity. Any experience that might lend a hand to the efficiency of these mids. My thought was to try them with my horns one way or the other. Thanks Again for your time!


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> Ugh.. There's a beat-up x3 on the 'bay right now for around $56 shipped, OBO. I tried but gave up after their final counter pretty much ended up being around $1 less than their original listing! Hope it's nobody on here.



I've been watching just (just watching since it's not black & gold)that one too. In my opinion asking to much for the condition, though it may clean up a little bit. I would think that eventually he'll let it go for a reasonable price after a few more relists. He started at $99.99 about 4 weeks ago. Good luck. 

B-4 Christmas I went thru the same thing trying to buy a really beat up non working LZ500 that was missing the bottom cover. This guy on evilbay had it and 2 Opti 500's in even worse condition and wanted around $700 for all 3, eventually down to about $450 w/shipping. I was only interested in the LZ and offered $130 + shipping. The lowest this guy would go was $200 + shipping. I eventually gave up. They never did sell. I probably would have paid $200 if it at least worked. Amp repairs can get expensive but I could've refinished it and made a bottom cover pretty cheap.


----------



## Ultrasonx

HELLO ALL
THANKS FOR THE HELP AND THE WARM WELCOMING.
I PULLED MY PREVIOUS INSTALL APPART THE OTHER DAY, AND I AM APPROACHING THE RECONFIGURE.

I THOUGHT I'D THROW IT OUT THERE:
I WAS LOOKING FOR ANOTHER PAIR OF DC64. I HAVE THE ENCLOSURES BUILT FOR TWO PAIRS UP FRONT, BUT ONLY HAVE ONE PAIR PLUS ONE PAIR DC54. BOTH ARE IN EXCELLENT USED CONDITION.

I WOULD LOOK TO TRADE FOR ANOTHER SET, AND I AM ALSO LOOKING FOR AN OPTIPLUS 500.

HERE IS WHAT I HAVE TO OFFER UP AS TRADE.
POSSIBLY DC54 AND DCT(TWEETERS); EXCELLENT USED CONDITION
E30 EQUALIZER: GOOD CONDITION
LZ500 GOOD FOR ITS AGE AND WORKS PERFECT

ANYBODY INTERESTED


----------



## 63flip

I'd love to get my hands on a LZ500 but I just bought 2 DC component sets and a DC10 all NIB about a month ago and the funds are a little low. Unfortunately I have a bit of a hoarding problem when it comes to my OS gear so I don't have any trades.


----------



## 63flip

.....also pulled out all 3 component sets to see if there was any more technical data and what I posted from the manual is it.


----------



## Ultrasonx

i KNOW THE FEELING FLIP.
KEEP ME IN MIND IF YOU COME ACCROSS A USED SET OF DC64 MIDS. OR SOMETHING VERY SIMILAR LIKE OZ
OR IF YOU WANT TO BUY THE LZ OUTRIGHT-
I HAVE TOO MANY UNFINISHED PROJECTS.

THANKS 63FLIP


----------



## Ultrasonx

i'm going to give the dc64 to my kicks and the dc54 to my doors. W/ image cd1-pro horns, clarion drz, audio control dqs, 2 idq15 v1's, and likely my same 4 ppi arts ( So Sad ). Wish i had an optiplus 500 and i'd go with a opti 5 amp setup. Maybe down the road on the amp switch- for now just the dc mids. Thanks again for the tech data, and i would still be very curious to know the efficiancy on those babies-


----------



## 63flip

Ultrasonx said:


> i KNOW THE FEELING FLIP.
> KEEP ME IN MIND IF YOU COME ACCROSS A USED SET OF DC64 MIDS. OR SOMETHING VERY SIMILAR LIKE OZ
> OR IF YOU WANT TO BUY THE LZ OUTRIGHT-
> I HAVE TOO MANY UNFINISHED PROJECTS.
> 
> THANKS 63FLIP


There is a pair of early Lanzar 6.5" mids from the LXR era on evilbay. NIB for $150. They've been listed a couple times you might get the seller to work with the price a little. PM me a price for the LZ500. If you're not in a hurry I may be to take that off your hands in a few weeks. 


Old School Lanzar MWS 6 5 Mid Set RARE USA Monster Midwoofers New Rockford | eBay 



......also on eBay now. A 160Q with ACM in near mint condition. Love to see that go to someone here. 

Lanzar Optidrive 160Q Old School with ACM Cooling Module RARE 4 Channel 160W | eBay


----------



## BassnTruck

Anyone interested in this 100? Make an offer.


----------



## Ultrasonx

I MANAGED TO GET MY SYSTEM BACK UP AND RUNNING, AND ENDED UP KEEPING THINGS PRETTY SIMILAR TO THE INITIAL INSTALL. DID MANAGE TO CLEAN A FEW THINGS UP AND ADDED A CLARION DRZ.


----------



## Ultrasonx

THIS MEANS THAT I STILL HAVE MY LANZAR GEAR AND I AM CONSIDERING SELLING IT. I'D LIKE TO KEEP THE BLACK OPTI SET TOGETHER BECAUSE IT IS SWEET THAT WAY.

DC 3 WAY COMPS EXCELLENT CONDITION
OPTI 4100 NEAR MINT
OPTI 4150 NEAR MINT MISSING BACK PLATE
E30 VERY GOOD COND.

OPTI 2100 DECENT CONDITION

OPTIPLUS 200 GOOD CONDITION 
OPTIPLUS 50 GOOD CONDITION

POSSIBLY LZ500 GOOD CONDITION

SHOOT ME A PM IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.


----------



## Ultrasonx

photos of updates
the cover plate is old and was as a slap together which i hate and planned to change as soon as i built it stupid lexus L what was i thinking??. I also still left some slack in my power/ground in case i end up going back with a 2nd battery. May also completely rebuild the box at some point. Otherwise a nice improvement and with less watts. running everything between 4-8 ohms - horns, 6 x mid bass, 2 x 15'"
ended up using the a1200 for mid bass, a300 horns, a600 subs, a100 rear fill. I know its sac-religious to post these here, but i still love my lanzar gear and wish i had another car. So to fund a new project i am selling some of my Opti gear-


----------



## Scurtis6691

Does anyone have an onwers manual for an Opti 2200 and 2500 ? If so I'd be very grateful for a copy ....


----------



## smgreen20

You and me both. I've got a make shift manual for them.


----------



## Scurtis6691

Anyone have an Opti 4100 or 4150 for sale ?


----------



## jpsandberg

A few years ago I was going to start selling my collection but had some major life events that put that on hold (married, had a kid, lost job(s), moved, etc). But I think I'm ready to pull everything out, see what I have and finally sell them. I know I have 2 4100's, and I think one is new in box. Can't remember if I still have the 4150 or not... PM me and I'll see what I have.

I also need to check with SilkySlim since he was interested in them a few years ago so kinda has first dibs


----------



## rreed

Somebody go buy that stupid first gen x2 crossover for $21 shipped off fleebay, I"m getting sick of looking at that thing. I have a pile of them as it is or I'd just put it out of its misery.

Ends soon I think.


----------



## Scurtis6691

How's it listed? Haven't seen it


----------



## 63flip

rreed said:


> Somebody go buy that stupid first gen x2 crossover for $21 shipped off fleebay, I"m getting sick of looking at that thing. I have a pile of them as it is or I'd just put it out of its misery.
> 
> Ends soon I think.




Got a link? I can't find it to save my life. Might be why know ones bought it.


----------



## rreed

Sorry. Search ebay, "old school lanzar." It's been re-posted several times, not sure they'll try once more. There are also some NIB ZR12's I want badly but don't need and they're a little steep. Some misc. old rag woofers and another set of MWS 5's I'd love but also a little proud.


----------



## smgreen20

Wow! I've been slacking. A few weeks ago I was able to find one of my unicorn amps. It was the first amp I ever bought and have only seen 2 others since 1994 when I got mine. This one is mint condition with plug/manual/box... A LANZAR LXR200!!! I have finally completed the series collection. Two LXR50's, one LXR120Q, one LXR100 nib and the LRX200. 






































As well, I accidentally bought something I wanted. LOL
Long story short, I found a rare, nib LANZAR S2x in dash 1/2din processor.


----------



## smgreen20

Okay, I now have irrefutable proof that Steven Mantz did on fact work for Lanzar. I don't know how I stumbled upon this, but I'm glad I did. Here is the link. I'm going to say that he worked for Lanzar from 1988 to 1992 when the Opti series was first introduced. I do not believe that the Opti series was of his design, actually I'm almost 100% positive it's not.

Steven Mantz History


----------



## rreed

There is an EQ5 on fleabay right now for a reasonable price. Search "old school lanzar" and enjoy.

I saw that S2x quite a while back, surprised to see it resurface. I didn't need it at the time but have since come around to boy that would be handy for my next build I'm planning.


----------



## smgreen20

Yours truly snagged that S2x. I want the EQ5 something terrible. I think that's the only processor from that era I don't have in the collection.......


----------



## 63flip

I'm glad you got the S2X. I saw it and hesitated, next time I looked it was gone. Not sure why I did though at that price!


----------



## Scurtis6691

I'm selling my Opti 50C of anyone is interested let me know ... Sad sad day : ( But I need my car fixes worse... $350.00


----------



## westy8

Scurtis6691 said:


> I'm selling my Opti 50C of anyone is interested let me know ... Sad sad day : ( But I need my car fixes worse... $350.00


Wanting to buy 50c right now.770-296-1200


----------



## alcatraz5768

Just signed up to this forum to do a build thread on my truck. Ill be using a Lanzar opti 200 for the fronts, and a G2M, G4S, and X4B as well. I also have a 4100Q on the shelf, and another G4s, a 15LP and a DC15D, and a 4150 with dramas, maybe some cs6.2S and some DCT tweeters. I think i also have an older style amp without crossovers, but ill have to search. I was thinking of running the 4100Q for the fronts (bridged to each side, Dynaudio's), and the 200 for the 2 boston pro12.4lf's, but it think i will buy a cheap d class amp for the subs, much to my dismay. I really want a 2500 for the subs.

Back in the day i built the enclosure for 12 x OA12s in a mitsi cordia running off 3 x opti 50c's. It was the first car in the country to reach 150db and with the subs turned down got a 38/40 score on the iasca? test cd. Also built a Mitsi Sigma with 8 x DC15ds in a wall that did 154db off 2x2500 amps, 6 batterys though.


----------



## Richi

Hello everyone; I show my collection Lanzar, I hope you like it.


Have a great day.


----------



## smgreen20

Sweet stash. Did you buy at a store that was closing or something? There was a time I was hunting for a set of those DC 6.1. Other than the component speakers, I think you and I are an even match. Don't get me wrong I'd still love to have a set of those components. Nice fan shrouds you have too by the way.

The more I think about it, you've actually got me beat. I don't collect the silver series obvious. To me that was the last of anything decent from the LANZAR.


----------



## Richi

smgreen20 said:


> Sweet stash. Did you buy at a store that was closing or something? There was a time I was hunting for a set of those DC 6.1. Other than the component speakers, I think you and I are an even match. Don't get me wrong I'd still love to have a set of those components. Nice fan shrouds you have too by the way.
> 
> The more I think about it, you've actually got me beat. I don't collect the silver series obvious. To me that was the last of anything decent from the LANZAR.


 Buy all components set on ebay about three years ago, probably found in a storage auction because there were insects in some cases, but the product is new, without any damage. and they sold right through ebay. I clean them and everything looks new.
There is a discussion if the silver amplifiers were made by zed audio, and what I can say is that only those who say on the circuit board handcrafted in the USA have the possibility because the circuit board is the same as the Alphasonik, USacoustics, boss made by zed audio, probably they were in bad terms and why not say zed audio, only says handcrafted in the USA.

The last silver are made in china.

Have a great day.


----------



## Richi

Revisión A & Revisión B of the DC Components Crossovers.


----------



## smgreen20

I'm constantly on eBay looking for OS LANZAR, never saw those. 

Thank god they upgraded those xovers in rev b.

Zed had no hand in the slicer Optis. 

Here's a link on the history of Zed from the man himself. The years he worked for LANZAR are too soon for the silver ones. It was the LXR/LZ series by the time frame.

Steven Mantz History


----------



## 63flip

Richi said:


> Hello everyone; I show my collection Lanzar, I hope you like it.
> 
> 
> Have a great day.



Nice collection! Most of my OS Lanzar collection is DC's and the black & gold amps too.


----------



## vwguy383

smgreen20 said:


> I'm constantly on eBay looking for OS LANZAR, never saw those.
> 
> Thank god they upgraded those xovers in rev b.
> 
> Zed had no hand in the slicer Optis.
> 
> Here's a link on the history of Zed from the man himself. The years he worked for LANZAR are too soon for the silver ones. It was the LXR/LZ series by the time frame.
> 
> Steven Mantz History


From what I understand is the newer sliver ones with the hump are zed. That link you have about his history is really old. When they switched to the flat silver ones is when he stopped. Can not Confirm. Just from what I have understood from reading online.


----------



## smgreen20

On the Old school LANZAR facebook page is was confirmed that Zed designed the silver Optis but did not build them. LANZAR asked Zed to design an amp that was reliable but made with the cheapest parts at a cheap price point. LANZAR also said they didn't want his name on the board. Designed cheaply, if I were Zed, I wouldn't want my name on the board anyway.

This was direct from a guy that worked next to Zed at LANZAR.


----------



## vwguy383

smgreen20 said:


> On the Old school LANZAR facebook page is was confirmed that Zed designed the silver Optis but did not build them. LANZAR asked Zed to design an amp that was reliable but made with the cheapest parts at a cheap price point. LANZAR also did they didn't want his manner on the board. Designed cheaply, if I were Zed, I wouldn't want my name on the board anyway.
> 
> This was direct from a guy that worked next to Zed at LANZAR.


Well that's good to know. I don't think I would want my name on something made on the cheap. Although I have heard that they were some pretty decent amps. Even if they were made on cheap I wonder if the design makes up for it.


----------



## 63flip

Just got this in the mail today. This is the only one I've ever seen, not sure what gen amps this goes with. LXR's or LZ's? This thing is huge, it's a lot bigger than it looks in pics. It's about 12"L x 6"W. The knobs are the size of nickels.


----------



## smgreen20

63flip said:


> Just got this in the mail today. This is the only one I've ever seen, not sure what gen amps this goes with. LXR's or LZ's? This thing is huge, it's a lot bigger than it looks in pics. It's about 12"L x 6"W. The knobs are the size of nickels.



Where on Gods great earth did you find that majestic piece? I have to see that in person sometime. 

Judging by the model number, I'm going to say it's from the time frame of the LZ amps. I'll look it up tomorrow (well, later today). Don't ever get rid of it, if you choose to, give me a call.


----------



## 63flip

I got it off eBay, it wasn't listed the best. There was only one other bid on it other than mine and I won it for $42.00 shipped. I knew it was something rare but not quite what I had. The LZ Series makes sense considering the model number on it. I was shocked at how big it is when I got it. In the ebay pics I figured it was only 6"-7" long. I've only hooked it to power and it comes on. Hopefully I'll have time to hook it up and play around with it next weekend. 

Green, you can count on me getting hold of you if I ever decide to let it go!


----------



## BFBS66

Hi all Lanzar lovers, I'm new here and from the Netherlands Europe so don't mind my bad English please and hope I placed this right.

Recently I got an oldschool set including the Lanzar LP12 - 4 ohm subwoofer unfortunatly no Lanzar amp but the Hifonics Hercules III, who knows in the future 

Now I really like to make this sub to work properly in a bandpass enclosure but there are no specs to find on google what so ever. Also mine looks different then others.

Unfortunately I can't place my pictures right now, with 5 messages I can 
The main difference is there are no gold connectors, just normal clips.

If anyone please can give me some more info like how many RMS and max. Watts this sub can take and more important, what should be the right measurements for a bandpass enclosure in the back of a small hatchback car.

Would be very very happy with any info, thank You.


----------



## smgreen20

An LP sub is an LP sub, but... let's try to verify if in fact that's exactly what you have. Does it have an orangeish red surround or black.
What does the logo look like?
LANZAR in white and a red and blue stripe under the name,
LANZAR in the same R/B/W but with a little fire/flame logo as well?

You stated push terminals over spring terminals. My educated guess is LANZAR in white, red/blue stripes under that and no flame logo. To me it's the first run LP. They used spade terminals on the first runs.

The 12 has a Sens of 98bD 1w/1m, 350 wrms handling power. As for a BP box, 4th order or 6th order? Go to www.teamlinear.com and download winISD. The LP12-4 is in it's database. Go from there for your box dimensions. Any further Q's just ask. I'll do my best.


----------



## BFBS66

Thank you for the quick reply, 

- there is no orange or red surround it is black 
there are no flames 

- the name is in red, 
with red-white-blue lines 
American Crafted Performence in blue under it

- on the back there is Lanzar Pro Plus Series and Kevlar Cone

- on the side is LP 12 4ohms - Serial #L 101870

- spade terminals was the word i'm looking for, that is correct

So I got the feeling we are getting pretty much to what this is, and 98db sounds Pro to me. 
Guess I can use a bigger amp in the future, my monoblock is 200w but it's a start.

Will look into WinISD and again thank you very much!


----------



## smgreen20

BFBS66 said:


> Thank you for the quick reply,
> 
> - there is no orange or red surround it is black
> there are no flames
> 
> - the name is in red,
> with red-white-blue lines
> American Crafted Performence in blue under it
> 
> - on the back there is Lanzar Pro Plus Series and Kevlar Cone
> 
> - on the side is LP 12 4ohms - Serial #L 101870
> 
> - spade terminals was the word i'm looking for, that is correct
> 
> So I got the feeling we are getting pretty much to what this is, and 98db sounds Pro to me.
> Guess I can use a bigger amp in the future, my monoblock is 200w but it's a start.
> 
> Will look into WinISD and again thank you very much!


This is what I came up with for bandpass boxes. The terquoise is what WinISD recommends. The pink is close to what my taste are and the yellow is a 6th order modified by me. 

I just built my first ever 4th order box so please take that into account with what I'm about to type.

I was instructed to do a 2:1 ration (ported:sealed) for the current box I just did. It's a lowend monster, but is weak in the "kick" spectrum. I'm still learning on bandpass boxes, but as of right now I'd prefer a good ported box. 

I'm at a loss at what to so and what should I say.


----------



## BFBS66

Well I have my new-school set so I can try things out like a bandpass and maybe even a folded horn. The only trouble is space in my small car so it must be effective.

Your picture is too small so I can't read that. For now I'm still doing the math on the sub and thought that I read somewhere 1/3 for the sealed chamber 
but the manual for my newschool sub comes with different volumes, so it's not all clear for me yet and stick to what WinISD says. 
Therefor considering not to glue all up and use something removable to seal.

They also say start with the recommended volumes and from there tune it for your car.
So we have a nice hobby that keeps us of the streets lol.


----------



## 4ever_pg

Hey guys, I'm in the process of trying to aquire my first old school Lanzar Opti amp and need a little info. The amp I'm currently looking at is a early opti 50C that is in working condition and hasn't ever been repaired. Cosmectically it's about a 7 out of 10 with a few scratches here and there but no major damage. What do you guys think would be a fair price for one in that condition? Thanks 

Chris


----------



## 63flip

4ever_pg said:


> Hey guys, I'm in the process of trying to aquire my first old school Lanzar Opti amp and need a little info. The amp I'm currently looking at is a early opti 50C that is in working condition and hasn't ever been repaired. Cosmectically it's about a 7 out of 10 with a few scratches here and there but no major damage. What do you guys think would be a fair price for one in that condition? Thanks
> 
> Chris



There was one that sold on eBay a couple weeks ago similar to the condition of your description for $300 + shipping. That's probably about average for a decent 50c.


----------



## 4ever_pg

He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks 

Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them? 

Chris


----------



## BFBS66

4ever_pg said:


> He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks
> 
> Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them?
> 
> Chris


No experience but maybe not so good idea, the paint they use is very thin so the heat can get out.
Polishing is an option I would choose.
In some cases a permanent marker can do the job.


----------



## 63flip

4ever_pg said:


> He's asking $300 for it so I guess it's a fair price then. Thanks
> 
> Has anyone had experience with touching the paint up or repainting them?
> 
> Chris


Go to your local hobby shop and pick up a little jar of Testors Flat Black model paint and a couple fine brushes. That will work on the small chips and scratches. I actually use an automotive touch up brush. It's fine tip lets you get the chips and keep the touch ups neat.


----------



## 4ever_pg

63flip said:


> Go to your local hobby shop and pick up a little jar of Testors Flat Black model paint and a couple fine brushes. That will work on the small chips and scratches. I actually use an automotive touch up brush. It's fine tip lets you get the chips and keep the touch ups neat.


Thanks for touch up tip. Should you happen to know the color match for the earlier blue Opti amps? Thanks

Chris


----------



## misterjones

Ah Lanzar... I had an Opti 50 and Opti 100 back around 1995. Got the 50 from a customer after he replaced it with a Punch 100 and got the 100 from my brother after one of his customers blew it up. Had the Opti 50 in my Prelude Si running a pair of a/d/s S6.2i plates and was going to swap it to the front door components I had in it when I got the blown mosfets replaced.

The fets in the Opti100 were "special", according to DigiKey (who I was ordering from), and they were perpetually on back order. Every supplier I knew of said the same thing: The mosfets Lanzar used weren't the standard model and they were on back order. After 2 years of waiting I sold it. The Opti50 went into two more cars before I sold it and the a/d/s plates along with it.

A few years ago I contemplated buying an older 91-92 Honda Accord for a commuter car and happened to notice that a supplier I've been buying drivers for home speakers from was selling car speakers too (Parts Express, been buying stuff from them since the late 80's). A quick check and I saw Lanzar speakers and amps among the choices! That happiness turned into concern when I saw the cost of Lanzar stuff, especially the amps, and then turned to sadness when I found out that Lanzar is no longer one of the better brands out there nowadays.

... Still... I kinda just want to buy some of their stuff just to see how bad it got.


----------



## llebcire

Enjoyed finding this thread!

I was hardcore Lanzar back in the day starting with the black/red rounded amps made by Zed and similar to HiFonics. I used to spend quite a bit of time talking with "Dr. Dave" about designs and specs - believe their speakers were originally Eminence.

Was with them selling, installing and owning their product through the low profile white competition amps. Our shop sold Phoenix Gold and the MS275 & 2125 seemed to take more abuse than the Lanzar so we sold more of them.

Hands down the OptiDrive were the best sounding amps around at the time. My final system, probably around 93-95, had a pair of Optis (one grey and one purple) running Oz Audio mids and highs and a single 12" Oz sub. Source was a Denon pullout CD, PPI parametric EQ and Phoenix Gold crossover with sub control. If I remember the crossover frequency was set by soldering resistors into a chip.

Around September I got the bug for car audio and was a little depressed at what I found as all of the quality companies sold out. I learned that old skool amps are still around but they're 20+ years old and the caps need replaced and quality examples are expensive.

For now I went with a new Zapco but who knows - maybe I'll get Lanzar again some day.

-Eric

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk


----------



## misterjones

llebcire said:


> Around September I got the bug for car audio and *was a little depressed at what I found as all of the quality companies sold out.* I learned that old skool amps are still around but they're 20+ years old and the caps need replaced and quality examples are expensive.



This is where I'm at. It's depressing to see that Lanzar is now borderline Dual/Boss/Pyramid status (well... Pyramid outside of their old school Super Pro amps 'cause those were made by PPI). It's bad enough a/d/s is no longer around and I can't figure out if MB Quart is good or not anymore, but Soundstream and a few other old school top-of-the-line companies are now craptastic.


----------



## smgreen20

AAMP of America is trying to being Phoenix Gold back to its former glory. They understand they'll probably never reach its old status,but at least they're trying. 

New MBQuart is...ok. The original guys that brought us MBQuart is now German Meastro.


----------



## Causeracecar49

Looking for some more info on the silver optis. Just picked up one locally at a pawn shop for 30 bucks. Had remembered something to do with zed and lanzar. Opened it up to see it said made in USA so figured it was worth the 30 bucks. Looks like the silver are the last of the USA made ones. Still do rated? It's an opti 200 btw. And had to make a new account on all the forums since I don't remember my login anymore.


----------



## avhound

i have been reading and purchasing a few of the "newer version Optidrive and Distinct series products, so far just speakers. how are the Amps in longevity?


----------



## smgreen20

I'm not so sure many of us here have much experience with the silver Opti amps. This thread is mostly geared for the items before that time.


----------



## Buickmike

I'm going to post here as well as my other thread. Scored two Lanzar LP15's yesterday. It seems like there is absolutely no info on T/S parameters for old Lanzar subs out there. Anyone here have them?

All I remember is that I think my old LP12's that I had in the early 90's worked well in 1 cu ft sealed boxes.


----------



## minbari

What I remember of those from the 90s was they were crazy sensitive, like cerwin vega and not very stiff suspension. Prolly a higher qts driver

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk


----------



## ilium007

Just came across this forum and thread ! I have an old school Lanzar amp from back in the day, wondering if anyone has a schematic for a Lanzar Optidrive 2200 ? Cheers !


----------



## Fro414

This other post has some good info in it:
diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/107743-old-school-lanzar-opti-2200-a.html

I still have my late 90s 2200 that I am about to use for a sub amp in my Durango. Had it in my old Ranger for 14 years bridged at 2Ohms on a Cadence Beast 10".


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

Another lanzar opti lover here, specifically black and gold. Does anyone know who i can get in touch with to have a couple heat sinks refurbished? And btw my collection is quite large. In 97 i ran 6 15" DC's on 6 2500's. That was my first wall build


----------



## smgreen20

There's a guy named Shawn King that does referbs and customs to amps, he might be able to, I've never asked him. 
SIx DC 15s, each with its own 2500.....Nice.
I've never done a wall build. Always valued my space and my cars.

What all is in your collection if it's quite large?

As for myself, off the top of my head
Opti50
Opti100
Opti100Q (x2)
Opti150
Opti160
Opti160Q
Opti200 (x2)
Opti500

LXR50 (x2)
LXR100 (NIB)
LXR120Q
LXR200
LXRB, Bridges. I took a bad LXR50 and cut the sink into thirds

LP10-4 (x2)
LP12-4 (NIB)
LP8D (x2)
OA12-4
OA15-5 (NIB)
VSE10-4
LXR10-4 (NIB)

TWS tweeters (NIB)
DCR3.5 (NIB)
MD4 (NIB)
MW5 (NIB)
MWS6.5 (x2 NIB, old and new logo)

ACM50 (NIB)
ACM160Q (NIB)

E30
S2X (NIB)
G2m (NIB)
G4s (x2 NIB)
DA6
X4b
X3

There might be a thing or 3 I forgot, but that"s the jist of it.
My Clarion collection is about twice the size.


----------



## jrs1006

smgreen20 said:


> There's a guy named Shawn King that does referbs and customs to amps, he might be able to, I've never asked him.
> SIx DC 15s, each with its own 2500.....Nice.
> I've never done a wall build. Always valued my space and my cars.
> 
> What all is in your collection if it's quite large?
> 
> As for myself, off the top of my head
> Opti50
> Opti100
> Opti100Q (x2)
> Opti150
> Opti160
> Opti160Q
> Opti200 (x2)
> Opti500
> 
> LXR50 (x2)
> LXR100 (NIB)
> LXR120Q
> LXR200
> LXRB, Bridges. I took a bad LXR50 and cut the sink into thirds
> 
> LP10-4 (x2)
> LP12-4 (NIB)
> LP8D (x2)
> OA12-4
> OA15-5 (NIB)
> VSE10-4
> LXR10-4 (NIB)
> 
> TWS tweeters (NIB)
> DCR3.5 (NIB)
> MD4 (NIB)
> MW5 (NIB)
> MWS6.5 (x2 NIB, old and new logo)
> 
> ACM50 (NIB)
> ACM160Q (NIB)
> 
> E30
> S2X (NIB)
> G2m (NIB)
> G4s (x2 NIB)
> DA6
> X4b
> X3
> 
> There might be a thing or 3 I forgot, but that"s the jist of it.
> My Clarion collection is about twice the size
> 
> Dude,
> 
> I forgot your collection was so extensive. Nice!


----------



## dcfis

Anybody got a pair of the red surround 18s?


----------



## Getsum

smgreen20 said:


> Found another small review for the Opti4100.
> 
> CA&E May 1997, pg 94
> 
> So tightly regulated that the output at 12.5v and 14.4v are the same.
> 56 wpc at 4 ohms,
> THD- .055%
> 170w x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged
> S/N- 100dB min gain, 99dB max gain
> 
> 
> For an amp rated at 25 x 4 @ 4 ohms, this amp does way more then rated and as you can see by the other reviews, it's not normal. Just goes to show not all models are the same.


The 4100 is a clean little beast.


----------



## Getsum

I use to be a Lanzar dealer back in the early 90s. They were always my favorite. It was sad around 2000 when Gary kovner sold out to Pyramid. He did however go on to start Kove. So if you love old school lanzar some of the kove subs are terrific also.


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

Ive got in my collection 
E540v
X2
X3
2-x4b
Da-6 ( i want another one)
2-g2m
4-g4s
2-e30
S2x

4-4150
4-4100
2-2200
1-6200
4-2500
160q (blue)

I don't have any more speakers and im down to 2bnib DVC 12 DC's and 2-10DC's

Ive started picking up some old mtx, old Phoenix Gold here and there, some critical mass and illusion audio. Oh and i picked up 3 of the old Soundstream tarantula's the big chrome f'ers, price was too good to pass up.


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

* i used to have a pair of the oa 15's. Man, i loved those subs

Edit: now im much more an "sq or sql" as apposed to just pure SPL


----------



## Google

TimmyD's Nuts said:


> Ive got in my collection
> E540v
> X2
> X3
> 2-x4b
> Da-6 ( i want another one)
> 2-g2m
> 4-g4s
> 2-e30
> S2x
> 
> 4-4150
> 4-4100
> 2-2200
> 1-6200
> 4-2500
> 160q (blue)
> 
> I don't have any more speakers and im down to 2bnib DVC 12 DC's and 2-10DC's
> 
> Ive started picking up some old mtx, old Phoenix Gold here and there, some critical mass and illusion audio. Oh and i picked up 3 of the old Soundstream tarantula's the big chrome f'ers, price was too good to pass up.


Is this what you're looking for? I'd sell this one. I don't know what they're worth, so I'd have to check into that.


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

Thats the one, if you want to sell it, ill gladly take it off your hands

Tim


----------



## Google

TimmyD's Nuts said:


> Thats the one, if you want to sell it, ill gladly take it off your hands
> 
> Tim


Sure I'll sell it. Been collecting dust in my closet forever. What a fair price for one of these things anymore? Lol. I know I had a hard time finding the ones I've got when I found them and that was years ago now. If there's a way to direct message me on here, hit me up. If not I can give you my email.


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

Google said:


> Sure I'll sell it. Been collecting dust in my closet forever. What a fair price for one of these things anymore? Lol. I know I had a hard time finding the ones I've got when I found them and that was years ago now. If there's a way to direct message me on here, hit me up. If not I can give you my email.


My email is [email protected], hit me up and we'll come to something beneficial for the both of us.

Tim


----------



## jrs1006

Just bring this thread back up. Showing some Lanzar love.


----------



## Big Sky Audiosports




----------



## jrs1006

Big Sky Audiosports said:


> View attachment 301850


What size and version are those? I would love another pair of LP 15's. I have two but still need to recone one.


----------



## Big Sky Audiosports

jrs1006 said:


> What size and version are those? I would love another pair of LP 15's. I have two but still need to recone one.


LP12’s and LP8’s


----------



## Big Sky Audiosports

The middle right one has some cosmetic cone damage, the surround had a dent and som cracking, and the dust cap was coming loose. I’m also pretty sure it wasn’t centered very well, moving it by hand I could often feel rubbing. I put a new surround on and all is better. Just waiting for the gaskets and surround treatment to show up to finish it off.


----------



## Big Sky Audiosports




----------



## Big Sky Audiosports

I’ll try to get a good scan tonight


----------



## JonK

The Dude said:


> Sorry to dig this one up, but if you search "old school" on Ebay under Car Electronics right now there are tons of Opti processors for sale.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f145bf6cd
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f145c149d
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lanzar-Opti...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337279e1ff
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-...697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f144e55a1


Pretty funny, this was my last sell off back in 2012. I may do another. I have a brand new 2050 up on the 'bay right now. I have a bunch of amps, speakers and subs i might be listing soon, along with a bunch of old Nakamichi stuff.

Glad to see the love here!!!


----------



## jrs1006

JonK said:


> Pretty funny, this was my last sell off back in 2012. I may do another. I have a brand new 2050 up on the 'bay right now. I have a bunch of amps, speakers and subs i might be listing soon, along with a bunch of old Nakamichi stuff.
> 
> Glad to see the love here!!!


Let me know what you have and I may take some stuff off your hands.


----------



## JonK

jrs1006 said:


> Let me know what you have and I may take some stuff off your hands.


Hey, I have 
2x E30
X2
X3
Optidrive 50
100
2x 160
200
500
2100

I have to get a 2050 and 2150 repaired too

I might have other stuff. PM for offers of you want anything


----------



## JonK

jrs1006 said:


> Let me know what you have and I may take some stuff off your hands.


Also a few pairs of DC64 and dc44 I think a dc10-4 left too


----------



## JonK

not sure if this was already added here, but a hi-res 1996 subwoofer owners manual scan perfectly ruined with my watermark 😁 

just sold my last new DC12, so i had to scan it.


----------



## smgreen20

Big Sky Audiosports said:


> View attachment 301850


I know this was a month ago, but what version are those LP8's? Single VC or DVC? I'm looking for a second pair of DVC's.


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

For all you Lanzar Opti lovers out there im going to be thinning my collection here shortly. All black and gold series. These are doubles and triples that I realistically won't use.
I REALLY NEED HELP FIGURING OUT REALISTIC PRICES, NOT EBAY ******** PRICES.

DA6 - Open box
G2M- BNIB
G4S- BNIB
G4S- USED MISSING BOX AND CABLE
X4B- BNIB
OPTI 4150- USED some scratches, not bad for. 90's NO BOX
12" DC DVC BNIB
10" DC SVC USED, SOFT SUSPENSION 
12" DC SVC USED 
MOST MANUALS ARE MISSING, I HAVE 2 CROSSOVER MANUALS, A SUBWOOFER MANUAL AND AN AMP MANUAL I NEED TO DIG UP.

TimmyD


----------



## jrs1006

TimmyD's Nuts said:


> For all you Lanzar Opti lovers out there im going to be thinning my collection here shortly. All black and gold series. These are doubles and triples that I realistically won't use.
> I REALLY NEED HELP FIGURING OUT REALISTIC PRICES, NOT EBAY ****** PRICES.
> 
> DA6 - Open box
> G2M- BNIB
> G4S- BNIB
> G4S- USED MISSING BOX AND CABLE
> X4B- BNIB
> OPTI 4150- USED some scratches, not bad for. 90's NO BOX
> 12" DC DVC BNIB
> 10" DC SVC USED, SOFT SUSPENSION
> 12" DC SVC USED
> MOST MANUALS ARE MISSING, I HAVE 2 CROSSOVER MANUALS, A SUBWOOFER MANUAL AND AN AMP MANUAL I NEED TO DIG UP.
> 
> TimmyD


What do you have left?


----------



## TimmyD's Nuts

G2m
G4s new
G4s used
Opti 4150 used
12DC DVC bnib
10DC SVC
X4b bnib

That's what's sitting there waiting to be sold


----------

