# Bonding Vinyl to Metal



## pionkej (Feb 29, 2008)

I was wondering if anyone knew of a good glue off hand for bonding vinyl to metal. Specifically, I'm trying to bond a layer of MLV to my outer door skin. 

I'm planning on getting some DAP Landau for my kicks, and I believe it will work since people use it to attach vinyl tops to cars (vinyl to metal), but that isn't a 1lb. cu/ft object hanging vertically either. I just don't want it to eventually shear off inside my door.

Thanks for any help that can be provided.


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

You can always contact 3M or some other adhesive company to ask them. But here's what I found--

3M? Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube, 6 per case
3M? Super Trim Adhesive, 08090, Yellow, 19 oz net wt/539 g, 6 per case


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## eng92 (Oct 28, 2008)

We use this stuff at work for bonding vinyl coated fabrics to painted metal

Bonding Vinyl Coated & Vinyl Laminated Fabrics: RH Products, MA

Shouldn't there be a decoupling layer between your mlv and the outer door skin?


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

eng92 said:


> We use this stuff at work for bonding vinyl coated fabrics to painted metal
> 
> Bonding Vinyl Coated & Vinyl Laminated Fabrics: RH Products, MA
> 
> Shouldn't there be a decoupling layer between your mlv and the outer door skin?


HH-66 won't bond to metal and yes, there should be a decoupling layer. That actually opens up some other possibilities. If the decoupling layer has vinyl content - HH-66 MLV to decoupling layer. Most closed cell foams can be bonded to metal with a variety of contact cements.


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## pionkej (Feb 29, 2008)

Rudeboy said:


> HH-66 won't bond to metal and yes, there should be a decoupling layer. That actually opens up some other possibilities. If the decoupling layer has vinyl content - HH-66 MLV to decoupling layer. Most closed cell foams can be bonded to metal with a variety of contact cements.


Don,

I thought the decoupler wasn't a necessary part of equation. It is there to keep the MLV from making contact with the metal and making noises of it's own. It will help a little at high frequencies and may help a bit as the sound travel through having different densities, but it still isn't required.

I thought I even read somewhere where you personally put the vinyl against the inner skin in doors and sandwich the foam between it and the door panel? I was planning on doing the same, just on the outer skin.

If it isn't going to help with killing sound transmission without the decoupler, there isn't really any point in me doing it.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

pionkej said:


> Don,
> 
> I thought the decoupler wasn't a necessary part of equation. It is there to keep the MLV from making contact with the metal and making noises of it's own. It will help a little at high frequencies and may help a bit as the sound travel through having different densities, but it still isn't required.
> 
> ...


I do tend to hang MLV directly on the inner skin and then put a layer of CCF between the MLV and the trim panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, it compresses the CCF and presses the MLV tightly against the inner skin. It would be better to have a layer of CCF between the MLV and the CCF but there usually isn't space for it. This is sort of the practical overriding the ideal. It's worked very well for me. Remember too that very few inner skins are contiguous pieces of sheet metal.

Whenever I hang MLV on the outer skin I put a layer of CCF between it and the sheet metal. You will get some improvement without it just because you are increasing the mass of the object sound has to pass through. Always better to decouple if possible.


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## pionkej (Feb 29, 2008)

Rudeboy said:


> I do tend to hang MLV directly on the inner skin and then put a layer of CCF between the MLV and the trim panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, it compresses the CCF and presses the MLV tightly against the inner skin. It would be better to have a layer of CCF between the MLV and the CCF but there usually isn't space for it. This is sort of the practical overriding the ideal. It's worked very well for me. Remember too that very few inner skins are contiguous pieces of sheet metal.
> 
> Whenever I hang MLV on the outer skin I put a layer of CCF between it and the sheet metal. You will get some improvement without it just because you are increasing the mass of the object sound has to pass through. Always better to decouple if possible.


I'll take a look and see if I can fit some CCF in there too then. I'm trying to get all the cab work done before I start on the doors, but I will see what I can do. It seems that if I can fit it, it will actually be easier to adhere the combo to the metal instead of just the vinyl itself anyway.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

schmiddr2 said:


> You can always contact 3M or some other adhesive company to ask them. But here's what I found--
> 
> 3M? Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube, 6 per case
> 3M? Super Trim Adhesive, 08090, Yellow, 19 oz net wt/539 g, 6 per case


Should work well.


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## chipss (Nov 13, 2009)

I am about to finish up my install, hh-66 bonds vinyl to vinyl like a champ, but does not work on anything else plastic, metal, painted metal, used 3m 90 and it seemed to do the trick, 

I glued mlv directly to the plastic door shell, sail panels...ect then ccf on top of this, so it is decoupled from the metal side…. I found doing it this way put less holes in the mlv barrier than any other way of doing it, the vapor barrier is great for a template and I don’t have to worry about mlv falling down once the shells are reinstalled, and man they fit tight, there is no way the mlv can fall, I have been at it now for a week still not finished but lack only the floor and rear quarter panel reinstall, test fired all gear today to make sure wiring is correct, before ccf the floors and mlv on top of vibration dampener/wiring , man I can tell already I have a killer sounding system.


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## Allan74 (Jun 17, 2010)

Have you checked out 3M Di-NOC ?


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## Blake Rateliff (Jul 12, 2008)

several strips of heavy duty velcro?


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## chipss (Nov 13, 2009)

I saw that some were using heavy duty Velcro, but mlv as a barrier needs to be just that a barrier, as much as one can manage inside a car or truck anyway, for the seams hh-66 makes a great seal, the 3m 90 stuff seems to work well, to hang it, and tacks up fast, local h-ware store carries it.
once the door skins are up it is stuck for good anyway, 
I didn’t want a sheet of mlv falling inside my door, and way to many obstacles inside a door to make a barrier, for sure better in the door skin, decoupled not only from the outside metal, with ccf but a nice air gap inside the door as well seemed to me to be the way to do this?
the rear on my truck I did have to glue ccf to metal then mlv to ccf, a whole sheet of second skin ll has been hanging for a week unsupported using the 3m 90, the rear seat and seatbelt system will also hold it in place once reinstalled, mlv is kind of hard to work with, closed cell is a joy though, I am using volera foam stuff looks great, covered my amp mounting boards with this stuff, anyway , I hope to finish this mess up in a day or two, ran out of glue tonight though,


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## Kobeck (May 17, 2012)

Hello all,

Ran across this fourm doing an interwebs search. 

Very nice.


I am getting ready too do a big, for me, install. Been buying gear and stuff for over a month. 

mid range install but I am doing the sound deadening thing.


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