# Imprint tuning hints and tips



## 86mr2

I thought it would be a good idea to collect all the tips people have in one thread. There is a lot of information on DIYMA, but it is getting kind of buried, and people may not have seen it. 

This thread is for hints and tips, not for Alpine/Imprint haters - start another thread for that if you must.

*Essential Reading*

Important Tutorial Post from an Alpine Trainer

Source thread for the above with more info

Tips from someone at Audessy at the bottom of the post

Dang's review of the H650 and Imprint, his comments are important, coming from a good tuner

9887 Imprint review thread, very long, much nonsense, but important information is imbedded in it


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## 86mr2

*Imprint pre-run checklist for 9887*

This is the list of actions that I perform before each Impint run. It is long because I have actually missed about 1/3 of them in the past, usually because I was in a rush.

Mark ear positions on windows with masking tape
Remove headrests, lay them on backseat
Turn key to "Accessory" position, *not *the one just before "Accessory" 
Turn on head unit
Check that balance is centred
Check that Bass and Treble are zero'd
Set Sub level the way you want it*
Set amp gains appropriately **
Set subwoofer gains down by 6-12 dB
If running active, set the crossovers in the head unit to the values required (only necessary if changing them from the last run)
Turn off HU and remove faceplate
Connect mic to control box
Connect contol box to HU. *Make sure the green LED comes on*.
Connect control box to laptop. Listen for "USB connected" beep.
Setup mic in the first position
Start Imprint and select left front seat

* Some say to zero it, some say to use a number in the middle of the range, the smartest answer is probably 15 since that is actually full output on Alpines. I will use 15 on my next run.

** 1/2 or just under on my SS Ref500SX seems good for the midrange. 1/3 or a little higher on my PPI4240 for the tweeters


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## 86mr2

*Imprint tuning hints*


Mark ear positions on front and rear windows. Sight across the car to line up the mic fore and aft and up and down for each measurement position. This is super important.

Tune for the drivers seat, nobody else in the car gives a ****.

Follow Scott's recommendations for mic positions (all at head position fore and aft), taking measurements forward on the seat (as directed by the software) seems to rob you of bass. I may try Chris from Audessy's recommendations one day when I'm bored.

Set sub gain down before running, back up again afterward. Don't get carried away though. If you set the gain too low, the sub will not be detected and will not be EQed or T/Aed. 

It may be necessary to set the gains on the tweeter amp down a tad after running Imprint. 

You can vary the tilt of the curve applied by manipulating the gain of the tweeter amp. I am still figuring out how to do this consistently. If the gain of the tweet amp is relatively high, the post Imprint result will look very flat in the graph, but sound very bright. If it is juuust right, there will be a general sloping down that sounds quite good. If the tweet gain is too low (even if it sounds OK), Imprint may not detect the tweets, and no joy results. 

If running active, Imprint has no idea what kind of drivers you are using so set the crossovers yourself in the 9887 before running Imprint - it will respect the crossovers. In fact, the only crossover Imprint will set in an active setup is between the sub and the mid, and it will usually be wrong. I think, however, it might do a better job if you are running a conventional setup with two pairs of passives. It would set an appropriate crossover that makes the front and rear both blend the best with the sub.

If running active, protect the tweeter from the mls chirp, it is full range. Use a cap or set a HP on the tweet amp.


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## yeldak99

Awesome info. Its nice having all this info in one spot. Thanks.


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## butch11a

getting my imprint kit soon....


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## drtool

Good job 86MR2. Just in time for me too help some one. Thanks 
Wayne


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## Owlmerlyn

Thanks for summarising the info, really appreciate it. Good idea to start a new thread, the other imprint thread was getting waaaaaaay long. 

Happy arty3: all


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## MAGOCYBER

Thank you for listing all the steps, it's really helpfull, I'll probably get mine in about 3 weeks I already have the 9887,


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## Turboready

Hi Guys,

Has anyone here used IMPRINT Version 2.1 and if so do you know what the upgrade differences are?

Thanks.


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## 86mr2

Personally, I have not seen anything to prove it even exists.


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## distronic

*Alpine Imprint Sound Manager 2.10*

It exists. Call Alpine and ask for the newest version. I received 2.10. It allows you to select for either the CDA-9887 or PXA-H100. It doesn't look like it functions any differently...

They didn't charge me for it either. The general operator will forward your call to software support or something of the like. Mine was sent from Torrance, CA. Took about two days and I'm in California as well.

Actually if you can wait, I'm uploading the software to megaupload. ~45mins


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## Turboready

Turboready said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Has anyone here used IMPRINT Version 2.1 and if so do you know what the upgrade differences are?
> 
> Thanks.


It does, I called Alpine USA and they said version 2.1 is free and that they would mail it to customers IN THE US ONLY. Since I am in Canada, we are screwed for now, they claimed it's too large for them to have as a downloadable file :mean: Would have wished if they could have a ZIP file of it.


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## Turboready

*Re: Alpine Imprint Sound Manager 2.10*



distronic said:


> It exists. Call Alpine and ask for the newest version. I received 2.10. It allows you to select for either the CDA-9887 or PXA-H100. It doesn't look like it functions any differently...
> 
> They didn't charge me for it either. The general operator will forward your call to software support or something of the like. Mine was sent from Torrance, CA. Took about two days and I'm in California as well.
> 
> Actually if you can wait, I'm uploading the software to megaupload. ~45mins


Many thanks bro, you are a good man. 

BTW, I just hooked up my "Vista powered" 2008 HP notebook and it connected and worked flawlessly on the first try, just finished measuring drivers side seat with no errors.

Many thanks to distronic for responding and taking the time to do the upload and share!


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## distronic

Alpine Imprint Sound Manager Ver.2.10

PM me if it doesn't work or for some reason we need it uploaded again.

ISO created with ImgBurn.

Rapidshare Link to Same


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## Turboready

distronic said:


> Alpine Imprint Sound Manager Ver.2.10
> 
> PM me if it doesn't work or for some reason we need it uploaded again.
> 
> ISO created with ImgBurn.


WOW Thanks Bud, it downloaded and seems fine, will install it on my notebook now. Thanks a lot distronic, really kewl of you to do this for us, much appreciated.
Just insalled it on my desk top and it seems fine.

Thanks again, going to run it on my note book now and tune away, you are a super guy 

UPDATE! As I am typing this IMPRINT 2.10 is running Whoo Hoo


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## oneiztoomany

what's the difference with version 2.0


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## emrliquidlife

*Re: Alpine Imprint Sound Manager 2.10*



Turboready said:


> Many thanks bro, you are a good man.
> 
> BTW, I just hooked up my "Vista powered" 2008 HP notebook and it connected and worked flawlessly on the first try, just finished measuring drivers side seat with no errors.
> 
> Many thanks to distronic for responding and taking the time to do the upload and share!



I got it to run with Vista too on my Dell Vostro 1500. 

Ed


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## bernardo

Well thanks a lot for doing this, i cant wait to try it.


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## bigrig

Here's my tip: If you want to hear what every curve sounds like (since you can only load two), you can leave the software running and re-attach the cable to the head unit after listening and upload new curves. I guess if you had multiple PCs you could do curves for different positions, too.

Matt


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## emrliquidlife

Overall, I'm happy about the changes that the Imprint made in my car. However, it is so biased to the driver. I'd like to have a curve set for a driver, and a curve set for two seat listening. Any tips on how to do this? 

I gather it will mean additional measurements at the passenger seat? 

Ed


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## 86mr2

This post compares RTA results to the Imprint result screen from my latest Imprint run.

This Imprint run is the first since I installed my PA BB175.4 amp to run my mids. Initially, I just plugged the PA in place of my SS Ref500sx, and set it's gains to sound good in the previous Imprint setup. The first RTA trace is that setup, but with Imprint turned off.










The second trace shows the levels set prior to the new Imprint run. I just try to get the tweeter level set to look similar to the top octave of the mids, or a little lower. The tweeter highpass is 2.5Khz/12dB. 

Before running Imprint, I also turned the sub gain down 12dB, and applied an 8dB narrow notch @ 40Hz to try to knock down the 45 Hz resonant peak. Those changes are shown in this trace.










The following two shots are the Imprint filter result predictions. I always load the "Reference" and "with Midrange Comp" curves, but generally try to use the "reference" curve.


















This RTA trace is of the results when the "reference" curve is used.










The red trace is with the sub gains still turned down, the blue trace shows the result of turning the gain up to maximum on the sub amp, and another 2 dB cut to the 45 hz peak.

These results sounded good in the Bass and lower MR, but were really too bright. I have been driving around with this setup for a couple of days and have been progressivly turning down the tweeter level. I have a result now that sounds awesome at medium to highish levels. I think I have likely turned the tweeters down by about 6dB. I will try to setup the RTA to take an after measurement.


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## capnxtreme

86mr2,

First of all, awesome thread and awesome post.

Do you manually set crossover points thru the 9887? If so, have you tried crossing the mid and tweet closer together; or have you tried flipping the phase on the tweets; to get rid of that nasty pre-EQ dip? That dip doesn't look a cabin acoustic feature to my newb eyes.


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## 86mr2

Crossing the mids and tweets closer together makes no difference to the dip at all. The low crossover on the mid is my latest effort to take some of the energy out of the audible 1.8kHz resonant peak. I have tried symmetric and asymmetric crossovers from 1.6Khz to 3.2Khz, and all tend to be harsher and brighter sounding. 

I tried flipping phase a few months ago and was not happy with the results. I am going to try it again though. 

At this point, my car is absolutely the best I have ever heard. That is not saying lots, since I do not go to competitions. The few show/demo cars I have heard have driven me away through a combination of hip-hip and obnoxious loudness. I have ridden in a few cars with premium OEM systems, and this one beats the ones I have heard for detail and natural, up-front bass.

This setup is the smoothest and appropriately bassy enough for the highway. My system has to support 5 and 8 hour highway trips without being fatiguing. The increase in power to the mids has made an enormous difference. 

There is more work to do, but the results to this point are certainly useable enough.


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## emrliquidlife

86mr2 said:


> Crossing the mids and tweets closer together makes no difference to the dip at all. The low crossover on the mid is my latest effort to take some of the energy out of the audible 1.8kHz resonant peak. I have tried symmetric and asymmetric crossovers from 1.6Khz to 3.2Khz, and all tend to be harsher and brighter sounding.
> 
> 
> I tried flipping phase a few months ago and was not happy with the results. I am going to try it again though.
> 
> At this point, my car is absolutely the best I have ever heard. That is not saying lots, since I do not go to competitions. The few show/demo cars I have heard have driven me away through a combination of hip-hip and obnoxious loudness. I have ridden in a few cars with premium OEM systems, and this one beats the ones I have heard for detail and natural, up-front bass.
> 
> This setup is the smoothest and appropriately bassy enough for the highway. My system has to support 5 and 8 hour highway trips without being fatiguing. The increase in power to the mids has made an enormous difference.
> 
> There is more work to do, but the results to this point are certainly useable enough.


Is your Imprint set for just you as the listener, or do you have a two seat setting. I'd still like to try the two seat mode.

Ed


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## 86mr2

I just set up for one seat. The only time it matters is on long trips when I take a break in the passenger seat. The rest of the time, my wife really doesn't care or notice. I think I only ever set it up for "all" once, and was not that crazy about it.


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## dbiegel

Awesome post 86mr2, thanks for sharing your results.

I've had similar issues with system sounding too bright after Imprint. I seem to have the best results when I set the tweeter level so it averages slightly _higher_ (by 1-2db or so) than the target curve. This forces the Imprint to cut rather than boost. For some reason, when Imprint boosts in the treble it can give some really odd results. I then set the tweeter level 3-6db lower than the midbass. How much depends on crossover point, and what I want the final response to look like. I have only personally used the H650, no real experience with the 9887, but it looks like they're quite similar.

BTW, did you change your sub/mid crossover points at all after running Imprint? Npdang in his initial review mentioned these cause a problem dip at the crossover frequency, which I don't see in your results. I seem to be having a similar phasing issue with the default crossover points so I always have to experiment with them after calibrations... Maybe its just an H650 bug...


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## 86mr2

Normally, I set the sub/mid crossover before running Imprint. In the past, the few times I let Imprint set the crossover itself I was not satisfied. I experimented with 63, 80, 100, and 125. 

Since I had more power available for the mids I decided to try something different.
This time, I actually set the sub/mid crossover flat and let Imprint set the crossover itself. I have to be honest, this has provided the most consistently up front bass I have ever had.

It looks like there is a hole centered around 100Hz, which does make me wonder if there is a phase issue, assuming Imprint set the crossover at 100. I will try reversing phase on the sub and see what happens. Probably screw something else up.


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## faiz23

bump


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## dblair

I'm planning the install of a PXA-H100 Imprint to an iDA-x200 head unit. Simple question, but I can't seem to find the answer. After the thing is set up what happens when I disconnect the battery? Do I have to reload the settings from the software or do they remain in memory?

I thought it would be useful in determining how accessable the PXA-H100 is in terms of hooking up the computer.


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## ibanzil

A great thing that solves a lot of problems is a line driver. I have the tru technology ssld6 and I lower the sub output from the start and raise the comps... Afterwards I lower the comps and raise the sub. Let's me get way tighter bass than just adjusting the sub gain on the amp.


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## dblair

Completed the instalation of the PXA-H100 with the iDA-x200. Ran into a bit of trouble with the -2 error code. I ran the AI-Net cable from the head unit to the processor box and another from the processor to an XM radio. Error code -2.

Called Alpine support. Was told that the XM needed to come from the head unit with the processor at the end of the line. Still got the -2 code. Ran just the processor off the head unit (disconnected the XM) and the program ran fine. Hooked the XM back up the way Alpine suggested and everything seems to be fine. The Alpine guy said the AI-Net pasthrough on the processor should be used by nothing other than a CD changer. Nothing about this in any of the manuals.

Love the result.


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## tusk

*Re: Imprint tuning hints*



86mr2 said:


> I may try Chris from Audessy's recommendations one day when I'm bored.


This day came for me today. I had a couple of hours to kill so why not play with the Imprint again. 

For the drivers seat I usually have been doing the following:
#1 position - Center of headrest, 4" forward.
#4 position - 3" to the left of center and 4" forward.
#5 position - 3" to the right of center and 4" forward.
#6 position - 4.5" to the right of position #5 (Almost to the edge of my seat) and 4" forward.

I changed #6 position to the same as #1 position, but to 7" forward (Per the Audessy suggestion.) I perfer this result better than my previous routine. I've only had like 15 minutes listening to it this way, so things may change, but so far....


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## bernardo

*Re: Imprint tuning hints*



tusk said:


> This day came for me today. I had a couple of hours to kill so why not play with the Imprint again.
> 
> 
> For the drivers seat I usually have been doing the following:
> 
> #1 position - Center of headrest, 4" forward.
> #4 position - 3" to the left of center and 4" forward.
> #5 position - 3" to the right of center and 4" forward.
> #6 position - 4.5" to the right of position #5 (Almost to the edge of my seat) and 4" forward.
> I changed #6 position to the same as #1 position, but to 7" forward (Per the Audessy suggestion.) I perfer this result better than my previous routine. I've only had like 15 minutes listening to it this way, so things may change, but so far....


 
is it better than the positions given by the alpine tech guy?


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## tusk

I personally liked the Audessy way a bit better. YMMV.


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## flightz71

Hey guys,

I just read this whole thread and very usefull information in here!!

My problem though has been unique from all the ones I've read here.

I have a 2003 BMW M3 and I'm current running Focal 165 K2P speakers in the front and Focal 130KP's in the rear powered by a JL 450/4 Amp.

My sub is a Jl 12W6V2 with a 500/1.

To compensate for the sub bass problem... I just turned my gain all the way down as suggested. The sub hits fine and I'm very satisfied with it.

My main problem though is all my midbass from my Focal's are gone!! Before tuning, they would hit somehwat hard. (Not as hard as a factory WRX... I will explain below) Now after tuning and the MultiEQ on either Reference or Reference w/mid comp... they hit a LOT LESS... and once I start my car (loud exhaust) I can barely hear them, nor feel them when the multi EQ is turned on. My buddy with a WRX and his factory system bumps soooo hard with the bass turned up... I feel the seat and door panel pounding against me. I cannot believe my $700 focals with 150Watts and a Alpine head unit isn't giving me the same feeling. Even my 99' 4Runner with factory POS JBL speakers +amp and a nice old school alpine head unit has much more bass coming from the front doors. My doors are not dynamated just cause I heard the e46 BMW door is already well insulated. Will dynamating it make a huge difference?

Pretty much... is there any way I can setup my system to trick the Imprint to give me more midbass?

I noticed the tutorial requested that the sub amp gain be turned all the way down and the crossover to be turned off. Would it be beneficial to turn on the crossover to 65Hz and try to trick the imprint in giving more 65-200Hz to my focal midbasses by only letting the sub play 65Hz and under?

Also, my mids and highs are kind of muddy now... not clear and sharp anymore. They were definitely a bit too bright before (when a girls vocal or a top hat hit... my ears would pierce)... but now... it sounds really bad... like it's muffled.

Is there any way I'm supposed to set my focal crossovers? I have them at -3dB's for the tweeters to dumb down the brightness right now...

Also... does messing with the EQ and audio settings before I tune with imprint actually make a difference? I would hope not. Are these settings supposed to be 0'd? (bass, treble, subwoofer level... etc)

Thank you in advance for your replies.



-Calvin


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## tusk

The settings will make a difference, atleast with the tweet / mid xover. I run activly and that is whjere my adjustments are made. I THINK the mid / sub over is in the same boat, but I've just been using what imprint comes up with. Everything else should be set to zero. Play with those gains if need be.


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## ibanzil

To get your midbass from the focals back...lower the xover on the sub. Imprit is trying to send it through that, which is good for stock speakers. Make ure xover on the focals isn't too high also.


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## fastlane

I had the same problem. I let the Imprint setup the crossover and I lost all midbass from my JBL's. I went back in and changed the xovers and it made a huge difference. I'm not sure if I screwed something up by doing it but it sounds much better. 

On a side note. Coming from an old HT guy but newer to CA. When you go into the crossovers in the setup, it lists low, med, and high. I assume that if I'm running a 2 way active, only low and med will have any effect? Or would it be low and high? Also, what would be the point of setting the low and medium separate from each other? My JBL's -3 point is 50 hz so I set the xover for 63 at an 18 db slope. If setting the JBL's at 63, wouldn't you also want the sub at 63 to get the best blend?


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## ibanzil

no matter what you set the xover at...imprint will make its own. I checked the files once and imprint had set my front mid to xover at 40. Thats one of the reasons I ditched the imprint...you can trick it to do 1 thing but, then it does another thing to combat what you changed.

Its amazing technology but it just refuses to allow the user to give the orders. Really designed for plug and play...no more.


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## I800C0LLECT

I was under the assumption that if used with a 9887 it uses the set x-over the user inputs. The H650 probably has the issue you're referring to but I doubt that applies to 9887+KTX-100


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## fastlane

I800C0LLECT said:


> I was under the assumption that if used with a 9887 it uses the set x-over the user inputs. The H650 probably has the issue you're referring to but I doubt that applies to 9887+KTX-100


That's what I though with the 100 as well. I ran the Imprint which gave me anemic midbass, then went in a turned it off and re set the crossovers to my preference. When I went back in and selected curve 1, I still had the better midbass. Obviously this defeats the run and I need to redo it, but it seems that the Imprint will respect the set xovers. I'll re run to make sure.


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## Crusadis

Thanks for this. Very helpful.

Those that have the software running on Vista, are you running 32 or 64 bit? I cannot get the software to run successfully on my Vista 64 laptop, I get the connection error. 

I am running the 2.10 software with iDA-X305 and PXA-H100.

When I first installed the software, I didn't run it as administrator. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it as administrator, then I restored the laptop to the day before I installed the software, but I wonder if that first install sans admin rights isn't blocking the proper USB connection. I am at a loss.

Sorry to hijack the thread.


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## fastlane

Crusadis said:


> Thanks for this. Very helpful.
> 
> Those that have the software running on Vista, are you running 32 or 64 bit? I cannot get the software to run successfully on my Vista 64 laptop, I get the connection error.
> 
> I am running the 2.10 software with iDA-X305 and PXA-H100.
> 
> When I first installed the software, I didn't run it as administrator. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it as administrator, then I restored the laptop to the day before I installed the software, but I wonder if that first install sans admin rights isn't blocking the proper USB connection. I am at a loss.
> 
> Sorry to hijack the thread.


At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work.  I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.


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## flightz71

ibanzil said:


> To get your midbass from the focals back...lower the xover on the sub. Imprit is trying to send it through that, which is good for stock speakers. Make ure xover on the focals isn't too high also.


gotcha... this makes sense.

I turned the crossover completely off on the sub... so I'm guessing the imprint was trying to get 200Hz or so outta the sub... LOL

I usually cross at 60Hz between the mids and subs... is this a good point?

Btw I'm running the passive crossovers from focal for the tweeter to mid cross... so I don't think I'll have any adjust ability there.


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## Crusadis

fastlane said:


> At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work.  I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.


Thanks fastlane, will try this tomorrow.


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## ibanzil

Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work. If your midbass wont extend to what imprint wants, it will just force it out of the sub. Look at your graph from imprint...make sure your "after curve" sits around the same height as the "before". If everything lays well above the "before" then your gains were too low and imprint is boosting the sh_t outa everything.

As for xover point...there is no "1 size fits all", just know this...it takes 1 hell of a midbass to extend to 60hz keeping up with the levels that subs are ran.


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## flightz71

ibanzil said:


> Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work. If your midbass wont extend to what imprint wants, it will just force it out of the sub. Look at your graph from imprint...make sure your "after curve" sits around the same height as the "before". If everything lays well above the "before" then your gains were too low and imprint is boosting the sh_t outa everything.
> 
> As for xover point...there is no "1 size fits all", just know this...it takes 1 hell of a midbass to extend to 60hz keeping up with the levels that subs are ran.


Hmm so where would you recommend I cross a Focal 165 K2P driver at?


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## ibanzil

I normally xover mids at 80hz on a 12db/oct. slope, changes with different setups though. I would also use that for the imprint, which would protect them from imprint trying to cross them too low. Listen to it w/o imprint on, get an idea of what xover points work best and then run imprint...imprint will set its own but your settings will at least try to force some sort of outcome from it.


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## tim85

Over here i had the same problems flightz71 ran into.
I also have a x305 with a h100 and the K2P's. (also in a bmw e46 ;-) )
I spent a few day trying to get it right.

Here is what i did:

1 make a setup in manual mode that sounds ok to you
2 disable all filtering facillities on your amps for the K2p's ( no xover)
3 Set your xover for your sub to the point desired (75 hz for me)
4 Make sure your gains are set pretty high for your k2p's. (3/5 open i did)
5 Turn your sub gain down, and i mean all the way down.
6 Run the imprint on the front left position, doing all possible measurements.
7 I uploaded the LINEAR curve, as it had much more midbass for me.
8 After uploading the curve, i cranked up the sub gain.
9 Done!


This was for me the best possible setup, providing me the low-end power the K2P should run with IMHO
It really sounds great now


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## 6spdcoupe

It is a tutorial thread, not a review, not a good vs. bad, not a buy it or don't buy it thread. Information For a specific product. Keep it ON topic.


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## 86mr2

ibanzil said:


> Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work.


This is incorrect for the 9887. Imprint respects the crossover settings in the headunit. This can be confirmed by using an RTA after tuning. 

The last few times I ran Imprint I even let it set the sub crossover. I am not a bass head and prefer higher sub crossovers for better integration anyway. I get very consistent up-front bass.


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## ezil71

fastlane said:


> At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work.  I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.


FYI - I have run it on both Vista, and now on Windows 7, both 64 bit.

Even though aspnet on Win 7 should be backward compatible to 1.1, you also need to load the ASPnet 1.1 pack, which I did first.

The trick is that the drivers for the serial interfaces have to get picked up from windows update, the ones on the disk are quite old.

What I did was install the software, take my laptop into the garage, where I still have wireless access, and plug in the usb/mic connections and turn on the HU.

Windows detected two devices (a serial device and a usb device if I recall), and it took a bit, but windows update did find the drivers.

Once they loaded, with everything still connected to the HU, I ran the software and it worked fine.

When I ran it on Vista the ASPnet wasn't an issue.


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## Dmax11

Great tips, I was initially kind of disappointed with how imprint sounded in my truck but after doing multiple tests and adjusting things i'm pretty happy with it overall for normal listening but definitely not if i want to show off the bass in my system even though i do have it adjusted to my liking with bass under normal listening 

details on my system 
2000 GMC Sonoma extended cab
Alpine iDA-X100 w/ PXA-H100 processor 
all mid/highs are Infinity Kappa's (older versions from early mid 2000's) 
2 x 4x6 Plates in the dash
2 x 6-1/2" components in the doors
2 x 6x9's in sealed boxes mounted to the rear of the cab firing upward 
1 x 12" fosgate T1 sub in a custom built box i made myself, slot ported 2.25 cu ft tuned to 34hz 
1x Fosgate Power T4004 4 channel for highs 
1x Kicker 08zx750.1

the whole roof of the cab is dynamatted because i used to have 2 JL 15's in this truck and the resonance on the roof was so bad it made extremely loud brrraaah noises when the bass hit .

I also made sort of dynamat boxes underneath my door and dash speaker stock mounting locations awhile back and that greatly improved those speaker's sound. 

what i discovered with tuning my setup is a few things

for best imaging i had to ditch my door speakers (6.5" components) with them connected either with or without the dash speakers the sound stage was either way too much to the right (i could hear most sound come from the right door speaker as it was firing at my ear directly) and also relied on the rear 6x9's too much on the left side making for an odd sounding sound stage.

due to this i disconnected the doors and went with just my dash 4 x 6 plate components and the rear 6x9's for added sound and better mid bass the 4 x 6's obviously lack due to their size.

when running the test always make sure to turn all the settings on the HU off and make sure sub level is 0, balance and fade are centered, pre-tune your high gains so they are even and not turned up excessively of course and shut off all cross-overs if you can and if not then turn it to max. I had to do this on my kicker as its got an undefeatable LP xover as well as a static 25hz subsonic filter. turn you sub gain down from the norm setting but not a whole lot, my norm setting was 1/2 and for tests i would turn it down to 1/3 and back up to 1/2 as well as upping the HU sub output to 8-10 out of 15 after the testing with MultiEQ on.

here is a big thing i discovered as well as some other users, if your like me and you do not have the convenience of a quiet garage you can put the vehicle in for the test to control exterior sounds screwing up test results. make sure you test late at night and that no cars drive by or you can also do what i did for a few tests i ran on the weekend during the day and drive to a empty business park where all of them are closed or in the case of where i live often unoccupied because a car drives by or any other decent noise happens around your car when doing it you might as well scrap it and test again or your results are not optimal and could even sound bad.

as for mic locations, a tripod is of course a must for this and i had good results with the centered on your head position then rear center then pass center then to the left and right of your listening positions method the most for sound stage and for more mid/bass the take 4 measurements from the driver seat only method audessey said to do worked good as well (centered then to the left and right 3-6" and then forward 3-6")

lastly aside from the normal turn the sub gain back up to normal and boost sub output on the HU till it sounds good to you i have also found that tweaking the balance and fade slightly is needed to get the perfect sound stage and balance from my front to rear speakers. i also found in my last test that i need to bump up the bass setting +2 to get a little better mid bass and turn down the treble to -2 when using the reference curve, this tweaks it more to be like how the linear curve sounds and i prefer that curve overall but for some reason the last time i tested i decided to try ref with mid comp out and i did not like it much and should have loaded linear because it has better bass and less treble than the ref curves but this of course will vary depending on how you like your sound. 


here is screen shots of the test results that i am currently using 


















i have tweaked my normal settings without the MultiEQ to my liking and overall it is much louder esp with bass, with MultiEQ it really is no contest how much better it sounds.

before i bought this unit i was using an old school Alpine ERE-G180 11 band EQ with BBE and the beauty of that EQ was BBE and how it could make anything with bass play loud pounding bass and this of course never matches that no matter what but then again i'm not really looking to have that any longer as my ears have been damaged from high SPL subs enough from the 15's i used to have in it 

I would rate it this way from what i've recently used in my truck 

Alpine w/ PXA-H100 manually adjusted w/o imprint on is the worst

Alipine w/ERE-G180 (BBE) best for having decent SQ while having killer bass

Alpine w/ PXA-H100 w/ properly done and tuned imprint hands down the best SQ but not the best bass or overall volume level, it seems to adjust my HU's volume knob so middle is very quiet, 3/4" is low volume and max is loud, but not loud enough to hear your ears or blow you out of the seat with bass *without adjusting amp gains on all amp's up more than they were tested at*

one interesting side effect that I'm sure is why it does this volume limiting is to prevent you being able to turn the volume up to a point where the system distorts even if you really do have power headroom in your amp/speaker setup to support the higher volumes without much if any distortion.

keep in mind if you do run this setup on these newer Alpine HU's and you wish to switch it off make sure to do so with the volume turned down because you could possibly do some damage to speakers if you switched modes when the volume knob is too high!!


----------



## bernardo

nice review thanks a lot.

actually I also use the reference and the reference with mid comp

i also have the problem with the sound stage moving to the right, but i re-mesure using the mic in the drivers position, and then putting down the gain on the right tweeter.

now is almost centered, with just a little more to the drivers position, wich is right for me.

sounds awesome on the drivers side, and very very good on the passengers side.


----------



## Dmax11

for an addition to my mini review above i have how also setup TrueRTA on my laptop and tested the mic accuracy before hand with my other PC and using the Alpine mic here is how my truck looks with pink noise played back for a few minutes in TrueRTA 










certainly not as flat as Alpines generated graph is but still not bad for an in car sound system. 

keep in mind i love bass hence the huge peak of bass levels that is provided by me turning up the sub amp gain and HU level 

also this was taken with the HU set to linear EQ mode not Reference as i prefer the added mid-bass linear seems to give you over the brighter highs of the reference setting 

its raining now but later this week maybe this weekend i'll do some more testing with TrueRTA to see what other modes look like


----------



## Actioncam

Before I start I have read through pages and pages of threads on imprint however I still need clarification on something and would appreciate some help  I just finished installing pioneer c720prs 2 way (active) front stage with a sub in the boot. Hu is alpine x305 and I have the pxa-h100 and ktx-h100 tuning kit. As I am running active I am not using the passive xovers that came with the pioneers however am I right in saying that if I auto tune with the ktx it does not set the xover for the tweets? Does this mean they are getting full range sent to them? Wouldnt this damage them? Just want clarification on this and if I am correct some advice? Maybe throw the passive xover on for the tweets? Thanks


----------



## chickencheese22

Hello, i am new here and have a question about this imprint KTX-H100. I have installed it on my laptop but everytime i try to run it i get a a message that states Common Language Runtime Debugging Services, Application has generated an exception that could not be handled. It ask to click cancel to debugg but then it says the JIT debugger is not available. Can anyone help with this? I am very eagger as you can imagine to get the processor working. Thanks.


----------



## tconners

Hey guys im fed up with my pxa-h100 and PXAH100. Just isnt my thing. To much work for me right now and my jeep is very space limited as well as the fact I have to maintain a waterline to keep stuff safe. Shoot me a pm if you are interested in them.


----------



## M3NTAL

When setting the HP for the tweeters, do you set them below what you think they SHOULD be crossed at so that IMPRINT will "fix that" or does that cause that crossover point to be the permanent setting?

The reason I ask is because I don't think my amplifier can cross high enough for a tweeter - it is 500hz IIRC at its highest setting.

Thanks.


----------



## ZAKSGSR

Thank you for the in-depth post I think it will solve a lot of headaches


----------



## mitchjr

I want to be able to find this one again.
subscribed


----------



## bschnotz

Wondering if there is any help for me. I am doing an install using an imprint PXA-H100, When I set things up for a 3 way system, I get really funky results. When I use the passive crossovers, I get reasonable results, but the treble is definitely compromised by the cheap parts in the crossover. In the 3 way mode, I get full range sound from the sub. What is the deal? I have run the measurements again and again. Same result. I love having the time correction capability in 3 way mode that makes the image so much better, but full range sub? I have heard the bandaid solution of using the amp crossover, but I am using an old school Soundstream that has no crossover in it. Help????


----------



## The Baron Groog

If anyone wants Alpine's "proper" fitting guide for the PXE-H650, not the BS one sent with the unit PM me with your email address and I'll forward it to you


----------



## FreeTurkeys

I finally installed my system in my 2008 Accord today, 


Alpine CDA-9887 w/ Imprint
Alpine SPR-17C 6.5 Coax Rear Deck
Alpine SPR-17S 6.5 Component Front 
Boston Acoustics 10" G2 Subwoofer
Alpine MRP-F240 V-Power 4 channel
Alpine MRD-M605 V12 Sub Amp

I haven't done any serious tuning yet but I did a quick Imprint run (because I just couldn't wait) in imperfect conditions. I measured with the mic sitting on my left shoulder, my right shoulder, and then wedged in the headrest in the passenger seat.

Now while my measurements are probably far from perfect, it already sounds way better than before I ran Imprint. The soundstage went from the back seat to stage right (not quite center stage but we're getting there), and the bass went from boomy and annoying to tight and accurate.

It definitely made everything a lot quieter, I do wish I could turn it up a little past max. I haven't touched the gains yet so they are set to whatever worked in my last car with a different deck, but regardless, I'm impressed with what Imprint was able to do in half an hour.

My real question is this, is measuring while I'm in the car really a bad idea? I have to think that plopping my 270 pound body in the middle of the space is going to change the acoustics significantly, so wouldn't it make sense to measure with me sitting there?


----------



## The Baron Groog

I'd try it with you in the car-afterall you're going to listening to it so if a leg is blocking a mid in your door, for example, Imprint could help correct it


----------



## 95Maxima

FreeTurkeys said:


> My real question is this, is measuring while I'm in the car really a bad idea? I have to think that plopping my 270 pound body in the middle of the space is going to change the acoustics significantly, so wouldn't it make sense to measure with me sitting there?


The only problem with doing it with you in the car is that you cannot take the first measurement with the mic where the centre of your head would be. That, and maybe keeping the mic positions consistent run to run. I don't know how you do it without getting claustrophobic or overheated though. You don't have the windows open do you?

My approach has been to build a mannequin of my legs using towels jammed into a pair of jeans. That way I can simulate the effect of my legs on the mids and kickpanel tweets.


----------



## christhomaswins

ok guys just installed the h100 in with my cda-117e and got sound coming out, but the bass has been drastically reduced (and im only manually tuning, no mic kit)

any help here would be much appreciated. thanks


----------



## NickMDX

Does anyone have any info on using the imprint setup with the INA-W900BT?

Doing a moderately elaborate install in my Acura MDX. Just wondering if anyone knows the ins and outs of the Audyssey MultEQ XT system that Alpine licenses for their Imprint calibration system?

I have two questions:

1) Will I run into any issues with this system if I'm only running 6.5" mids in the rear for "rear fill". What's the best way to go about setting filters and crossovers with this system? Should it be done in the head unit itself or use the supplied speaker crossovers or both?

2) I ordered a CSS SDX 10 sub and they recommend some sort of auto equalizer to maximize and flatten the in vehicle response of the sub, but I'm wondering if the auto calibration in the imprint technology will do this for me? Anyone know if the imprint also works on the sub channel and does it go all the way down below 20Hz?

The System I'm installing:
Head Unit - Alpine INA-W900BT (with imprint module)
Front Speakers - Image Dynamics CTX 65CS components
Rear Speakers - Image Dynamics CTX 6M midrange woofers
Subwoofer - CSS SDX 10 in 0.9ft3 sealed custom fiberglass enclosure
Amps - Alpine PDX 4.150 / PDX 1.1000
FatMat rattle trap extreme will be installed at least in all 4 doors and around the area where the sub is to be installed.

Hopefully someone has some expertise with the Imprint calibration cause they sure don't go into much detail on the Alpine website. I am much more familiar with home audio than car audio so any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## FSUnoles

just ran mine again after about 2 years or so haha


----------



## Duper

*Should I be bi-amping through a crossover or ditch the crossover and run full active?*

Found this thread and thought someone who's more familiar might have some insight on this...

I have MLK 165s for my front stage and an Alpine Imprint. The MLK's crossovers allows for bi-amping so my installer bi-amped it through the crossover - diagram below.

My question is - should he even use the MLK's crossovers or should he be running it full active from the imprint instead? Does it matter? 

Right now it sounds like singers / instrumentals are underneath a plastic bowl and I'm wondering if the imprint and the bi-amped crossover are conflicting with one another (both trying to set crossover points). 

I'm supposed to come back and have him re-tune it, but I wanted the forum's opinion on how it should be configured in the first place with this type of setup... My first time with an Imprint. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Duper

Unless someone can think of a different configuration what would sound better, I'm leaning towards bridging the amps and pushing 350w everywhere. The MLK's have _great_ crossovers so I want to use them. I've heard Hertz spent a lot of time making them sound just right in stock locations in a car (with customizable settings in the x-over network). 

If someone's got another strong opinion, I'd love to hear it though...


----------



## corcraft

Question, on the "room correction" how does that work? I know that it is time delay but does it delay everthing that is running off of a particular channel the same or does it delay by freq? What I'm getting at is this, If I run passive networks to my mains (tweeter in the dash and mid in the door) would they be delayed together or seperate? Would they have the correct delay for there location or would they be delayed as a common location? I really don't want to add the cost of going active.


----------



## ecbmxer

If you have a passive on them they will be delayed together. You only have so many channels to work with (4 + sub). If you were running active through Imprint, then it could set individual time delay for each of the tweeters and mids. That would be your best bet unless you are running rear speakers.


----------



## corcraft

ecbmxer said:


> If you have a passive on them they will be delayed together. You only have so many channels to work with (4 + sub). If you were running active through Imprint, then it could set individual time delay for each of the tweeters and mids. That would be your best bet unless you are running rear speakers.


Well that is what i thought because that is the type of delay that I am used too.... However, I called Alpine tech before I posted this and they said it delays by freq so even if they were passive and in 2 different locations they would be delayed correctly. This is beyond my understanding how that could be done which is why I posted here as well. I know that when I used to deal with Alpine 10yrs ago they had some knowledgeable techs.... I don't know about now since the market has went down.


----------



## tusk

IIRC it's freq. based and not really channel based.


----------



## Mikcuz

Thank you for this.


----------



## Mikcuz

So people actually hate on the imprint? Why? I havent got to use mine yet cuz the software wouldnt run in my older pre intel mac but now i have a new mac book pro with intel so here we go soon. Im excited. Cant wait to see the difference.


----------



## Mikcuz

Also, if im using the pxa-h100, do i use the sound manager version 2.1?


----------



## HiFiAudioGuy34

Thanks for the all the directions and info. I'm a little late to the imprint stuff. but rather late than never!


----------



## killahsharksjc

Im having this problem also... can anyone help?? 



chickencheese22 said:


> Hello, i am new here and have a question about this imprint KTX-H100. I have installed it on my laptop but everytime i try to run it i get a a message that states Common Language Runtime Debugging Services, Application has generated an exception that could not be handled. It ask to click cancel to debugg but then it says the JIT debugger is not available. Can anyone help with this? I am very eagger as you can imagine to get the processor working. Thanks.


----------



## aeon

killahsharksjc said:


> Im having this problem also... can anyone help??


Trying googling "Common Language Runtime Debugging Services". It seems to be a problem with .NET Framework and not the alpine program itself.


----------



## Irishdrunk

Finally got around to really messing with the MultEQ today. Out of 4 different measurements, the best sounding IMO was the Audessy recommendation (Measurement 6 same as 1 but more foreward. The stage still seems a tad off to the right, I will redo tomorrow moving the mic about 2 inches to the left for each measurement.

ALSO BIG TIP here for non XP users. I ran an Oracle VM Virtual Box of XP SP 2 to get this to work on my Windows 7 laptop. Make sure you setup the USB correctly in the program to get it to work.

I am very impressed with the tuning, bummbed that the PXA-H100 doesn't respect active crossovers, but with Passives on my components and using my sub amp to x-over the sub, it sounds pretty decent. And I still have the ability to switch off the curve if I like


----------



## focal318

Hey guys, quick question about an Error -2 message. I've received this code at least 15 times now, only making it completely through it once and that time after I sent the curve I believe the PXA-H100 froze. After I closed the Imprint software I disconnected the microphone by the headunit (iXA-W407) never responded and updated, I ultimately had to kill the ignition to regain control of it.

I've followed the steps perfectly including hooking the vehicle up to a battery charger just in case lack of power is an issue. I read in a previous post on this thread where someone was receiving the same error code and he said the issue was with a satellite radio running on Ai-Net for measurement. I tried disconnecting that this morning as well only having the Imprint connected and I'm still receiving the same error code. 

The timing of when it gives the error is never the same, sometimes it'll happen in the first 3 minutes and other times it's made it to the subs before giving the error code. Also each time I've received it I've power cycled everything, disconnected the mic, closed Imprint, turned off the ACC off, disconnected the USB cable, and rebooted computer so I was trying a fresh run each time. Any help or suggestions would be great appreciated!!


----------



## ecbmxer

The Error -2 and Error 0014 are related to the USB drivers. Before installing the sound manager, you need to open the other folder on the cd and run the usb driver installer. Then plug in the imprint box to you computer and install the software with it all plugged in. Then restart your computer. I just had these errors all day yesterday and couldn't get through a run. Then I re-did everything this way and it works fine. Try it.

Also, if you are running active I can confirm that Imprint respects whatever crossover point you have set between your tweeter and midbass. But it sets your midbass to sub crossover. I'm sure of it now.


----------



## SirLaughsALot

I know this is probably one of the worst places to ask this, but would anyone possibly be interested in either renting out or letting their IMPRINT system be borrowed by a member on this site? I am in San Jose, CA and would really like to further my tuning with this program and hardware, but I am unaware of any shops around here that have it to use. (only to buy)

Thanks, and I really enjoyed reading this.

-Ryan


----------



## killahsharksjc

SirLaughsALot said:


> I know this is probably one of the worst places to ask this, but would anyone possibly be interested in either renting out or letting their IMPRINT system be borrowed by a member on this site? I am in San Jose, CA and would really like to further my tuning with this program and hardware, but I am unaware of any shops around here that have it to use. (only to buy)
> 
> Thanks, and I really enjoyed reading this.
> 
> -Ryan[/QUOT
> 
> pmed you...


----------



## bginvestor

To better understand the inner workings of Imprint, can the experts verify the units from this example imprint file? 

<Channel>1</Channel>
<TrimLevel>5.355089</TrimLevel> *units? db attenuation?*
<MEQTrimLevel>5.355089</MEQTrimLevel> *units? db attenuation?*
<SpeakerType>SPEAKER_SMALL</SpeakerType> *difference between small / large speaker setting*
<Delay>4.9375</Delay> *units? msecs?*
<Polarity>1</Polarity> *standard or reverse polarity?*
<Crossover>80</Crossover> * i.e LP filter ?*
<CutoffFreq>20</CutoffFreq> * i.e. HP filter ?*
<CutoffOrder>3</CutoffOrder> *units? db/octave?*

Thanks!


----------



## Juice75

ecbmxer said:


> The Error -2 and Error 0014 are related to the USB drivers. Before installing the sound manager, you need to open the other folder on the cd and run the usb driver installer. Then plug in the imprint box to you computer and install the software with it all plugged in. Then restart your computer. I just had these errors all day yesterday and couldn't get through a run. Then I re-did everything this way and it works fine. Try it.
> 
> Also, if you are running active I can confirm that Imprint respects whatever crossover point you have set between your tweeter and midbass. But it sets your midbass to sub crossover. I'm sure of it now.


I know this post was pretty old, but are you saying to wait to install the software after you hook the imprint USB to the laptop? And is this with the key turned on, so that the imprint has power? The error -2 is driving me crazy.


----------



## bginvestor

Juice75 said:


> I know this post was pretty old, but are you saying to wait to install the software after you hook the imprint USB to the laptop? And is this with the key turned on, so that the imprint has power? The error -2 is driving me crazy.


I've used imprint recently.. This is my process.

1) Power is off
2) connect mic and usb cord to PXA-H100
3) Connect usb cord to laptop (laptop is "on")
4) turn on ign to vehicle
5) Start the imprint program on the laptop. select your version of processor and start the process.

This has never failed me. Hope this helps.

Brian


----------



## Juice75

Do you turn the ignition to on or accessory? Not sure if it matters or not. Accessory is a turn back on mine. And on is a click forward.


----------



## Juice75

Still no luck. I was able to get it to my sub (69% for position one) twice before I got error -2. Then the error started popping up earlier and earlier. I wonder if everything is just getting too hot? The PXA-H100 is in my glove box, and I'm in Texas, so it's still 95 degrees right now. Could that be it?

It's supposed to cool off a little next week, so I might try again then.


----------



## bginvestor

Juice75 said:


> Still no luck. I was able to get it to my sub (69% for position one) twice before I got error -2. Then the error started popping up earlier and earlier. I wonder if everything is just getting too hot? The PXA-H100 is in my glove box, and I'm in Texas, so it's still 95 degrees right now. Could that be it?
> 
> It's supposed to cool off a little next week, so I might try again then.


No opinions on the temperature..

Maybe this is the solution

Alpine IMPRINT KTX-H100 "error-2" -

Or maybe this.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...86-imprint-error-2-measure-command-error.html

Or maybe this..

Does the imprint kit for alpine hu really make sense ? - Team-BHP

good luck


----------



## Juice75

Thanks for the links. I ran across all of those as well, and no luck yet. I'll give it a shot again in a few days. If I find a solution, I'll make sure to post it up.


----------



## Juice75

Finally fixed the issue, although still not sure what it was. I swapped out the X305S for another one, due to a strange distortion on vocals. Put in the new HU, and used a different laptop, and it worked. Still have to play around with it, because I'm not impressed right now. The sound is very thin without much depth/warmth.

But I'm not giving up yet.


----------



## ecbmxer

Juice75 said:


> Finally fixed the issue, although still not sure what it was. I swapped out the X305S for another one, due to a strange distortion on vocals. Put in the new HU, and used a different laptop, and it worked. Still have to play around with it, because I'm not impressed right now. The sound is very thin without much depth/warmth.
> 
> But I'm not giving up yet.


Thats a good description of Imprint tuning. Why I quit with mine.


----------



## Juice75

I'm going to give it one more shot using the Audyssey method, where all 6 positions are on the driver's seat. If that doesn't work, I'll stick with my manual tune. I'm pretty happy with that right now anyway.


----------



## DiMora

I have found that tuning using ALL and testing all six seat positions yields the best results to my ears. I use a tripod with a sandbag.

I turned the sub gain down, then back up after tuning...and I added a -3dB cut to my tweets via their passives.


----------



## releasedtruth

My experience has told me after 4 years of semi-satisfaction (H650) that I need something different. Even if the staging sounds great, I can never tame out some horrible frequencies that make some vocals and guitar unbearable. I don't know about you, but my time is valuable and retuning a dozen times has me about ready to throw it out.


----------



## Puppy

After dealing with the ktx-h100 for a while ill add my input.

Make sure all of your speakers are in phase. 
Do 5 mic points just as instructed with the software.
Take the rta you get from imprint, turn imprint off and tune it yourself.

I have never been able to get multieq to sound good AND stage well.
So just eq it yourself and time align it like the head unit instruction manual tells you, take measurements with a tape measure and calculate off the furthest speaker. Do the math and enter values.
It will sound amazing.


----------



## releasedtruth

I took one last shot using the new software that reker13 uploaded and I have changed my tune, as it were. MUCH better result. Used 5 positions. 3 along ear axis and 1 slightly in front and 1 slightly (3") behind. Staging is great and some EQ shifts have it lined up nicely.


----------



## 01LSi

Every time I run the software it tunes the mids and makes an audible frequency (Front Right & Front Left) and lows (Subs and makes an audible frequency) and tunes them.

When it reaches the Rear Right and Rear Left (Highs/Tweeters) it produces no audible frequencies, does not tune, and does not acknowledge they exist.

The tweeters play from the PXA just fine so it's not like there isn't a signal going through them to the tweeters.

The RCA's are going from the "rear" output on the PXA to the rear input on the amp.
The 3 way switch is on. I also pulled the power and flicked the switch to 3 way before I plugged power back in.

I've even switched the RCAs for mids and tweets at the amp for kicks and it started to work on the front left tweeter and then I got an error. I believe it was a wrong setup error.

What's the deal? What am I doing wrong and why won't the software just acknowledge the presence of the tweeters?


----------



## fiveoh

I just bought a 9887. I already have the imprint tuning software. It has been a long time since I messed with it. Some of the links at the beginning of the thread seem to be gone. Can anyone tell me what the preferred mic placements are? I know several suggested following Scott recommendations, but I can't seem to locate them. Even the links in the first post don't seem to have that information anymore.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is what are Scott's (from Audyssey) mic placement suggestions that a lot of people seem to like?


----------



## mfenske

Bdubz said:


> Every time I run the software it tunes the mids and makes an audible frequency (Front Right & Front Left) and lows (Subs and makes an audible frequency) and tunes them.
> 
> When it reaches the Rear Right and Rear Left (Highs/Tweeters) it produces no audible frequencies, does not tune, and does not acknowledge they exist.
> 
> The tweeters play from the PXA just fine so it's not like there isn't a signal going through them to the tweeters.
> 
> The RCA's are going from the "rear" output on the PXA to the rear input on the amp.
> The 3 way switch is on. I also pulled the power and flicked the switch to 3 way before I plugged power back in.
> 
> I've even switched the RCAs for mids and tweets at the amp for kicks and it started to work on the front left tweeter and then I got an error. I believe it was a wrong setup error.
> 
> What's the deal? What am I doing wrong and why won't the software just acknowledge the presence of the tweeters?


I'm bumping this because I'm having a nearly identical issue. Stupid software isn't recognizing any of the speakers.


----------



## jackdeb

86mr2 said:


> I thought it would be a good idea to collect all the tips people have in one thread. There is a lot of information on DIYMA, but it is getting kind of buried, and people may not have seen it.
> 
> This thread is for hints and tips, not for Alpine/Imprint haters - start another thread for that if you must.
> 
> *Essential Reading*
> 
> Important Tutorial Post from an Alpine Trainer
> 
> Source thread for the above with more info
> 
> Tips from someone at Audessy at the bottom of the post
> 
> Dang's review of the H650 and Imprint, his comments are important, coming from a good tuner
> 
> 9887 Imprint review thread, very long, much nonsense, but important information is imbedded in it



hi have a Alpine INA W910R and a Imprint H660 ,and tips on connections ,sub woofer ??? how


----------



## mister_eff

I have a quick question about Imprint... (I have PXA-H800)

What is the end result for Imprint? Is it "simply" time delay for every speaker and the 1/3 octave band EQ for every speaker? I'm asking if it is possible to get the exact same output from manually setting up the PXA-H800 with what Imprint does. I'm not talking about manually deriving every setting, but rather if Imprint does other DSP-ing things that the user does not have access to. ie, corrections in the time-domain.

I had some bad luck getting Imprint to work, so I just painstakingly set delays and EQ'ed (graphic) it myself because I'm able to measure 1/3 octave bands very easily. Then I was reading about Audyssey for home audio and it seems like Audysey actively corrects in the time domain (ie, more than just figuring out time delay/speaker distance)

So now I'm wondering if I'm missing out by not using Imprint if it can do time domain corrections that are impossible for me to measure and set myself.

Thanks.


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## Old Skewl

Sorry to bump this old thread. I have been running my PXA-H100 with Imprint tunes for about 18 months with my front speakers on Passives, no rear speakers and subs. I was mostly happy with the sound, but felt if I went 3-way active I could improve it. 2 weeks ago I made the move to 3-way and have been fighting with the software and Error-2. I finally got the software to run on a different laptop, but there are no sounds when doing the measurements to rear speakers(tweeters). Fronts and subs function properly during the measurements. When I play music the tweeters function properly. The same problem the guy in the post below had. Just wondered if anyone else experienced this and had a solution. Thanks!



Bdubz said:


> Every time I run the software it tunes the mids and makes an audible frequency (Front Right & Front Left) and lows (Subs and makes an audible frequency) and tunes them.
> 
> When it reaches the Rear Right and Rear Left (Highs/Tweeters) it produces no audible frequencies, does not tune, and does not acknowledge they exist.
> 
> The tweeters play from the PXA just fine so it's not like there isn't a signal going through them to the tweeters.
> 
> The RCA's are going from the "rear" output on the PXA to the rear input on the amp.
> The 3 way switch is on. I also pulled the power and flicked the switch to 3 way before I plugged power back in.
> 
> I've even switched the RCAs for mids and tweets at the amp for kicks and it started to work on the front left tweeter and then I got an error. I believe it was a wrong setup error.
> 
> What's the deal? What am I doing wrong and why won't the software just acknowledge the presence of the tweeters?


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## Siavash

Hey Guys

I'm new to this forum and i just bought an imprint H100 and I was hopping i could get some help from you guys setting it up.

I have an Alpine X305S with imprint h100 in my 2006 Peugeot 206 xsi .i did the install myself and my set up is as i have mentioned below:

- Alpine X305s
- Alpine H100
- JBL Components in front doors 16 cm 40 watts
- JBL Components in Rear doors 13 cm 35 watts
- Focal Audio BUS 20 Active sub-woofer 50 watts 

the JBL components are directly connected to the head unit . The RCA outputs from the imprint for front and rear are connected to RCA connections of the head unit and the head unit amplifier is being used . The Sub-Woofer is connected directly to the imprint unit .

So i did a calibration with the microphone , everything is OK but the bass is not loud enough.
when i was doing the calibration i did turn down the sub woofer gain to 1/4 . and turned it up again. also on the head unit the sub woofer output was set on 15 .

i did read the threads and i could not find the perfect answer that works with the bass.

what do you suggest i should do to bring the bass level and volume up after the calibration .


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