# What size sub-/midbasswoofers have you squeezed in your doors?



## Candisa

I think the "Fabrication" sub-forum is the best place for this, since this is all about modified door(panel)s that house bigger-than-stock woofers...

So, what's the size of the woofers you've squeezed into your doors?

And off-course: Pictures and a little explination are very welcome!

Isabelle


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## BuickGN

I'm currently running the Dyn MW182. Dyn calls it a 10", it has the frame size and cone area of a 9". In the TL, it's extremely easy, not much harder than just making the hole bigger. A little more complicated than that but very easy.



The beginning of the project, just a mock up with some wood spacer behind the mid.



The 650 that came out and the 182 that went in:



Right after I put the new carpet in, obviously right before I re-installed the glove box:



They fit behind the stock door card, no exterior modifications, looks all stock.



One of my goals is to keep it as stock as possible looking. Even with the midrange in the kicks, most people do not notice there's a system in the car. They had to be flush mounted to the sheet metal (with the supplied rubber gasket and a little sound deadener in between) in order to fit them behind the door card without modifications. Surprisingly I have less door vibrations at a given SPL with these than with the smaller 6.5s.

One of life's big questions, should I check the 10" or the 8-9" poll box?


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## BuickGN

I hope this thread takes off, I'm looking forward to seeing other peoples' non standard setups, especially how they're integrated into the doors. It's my opinion that most midbass setups are overworked. Ironically I'm using a 70hz/24db highpass with my 9s. They handle a 40-50hz HP just fine but I like it better overall the way it's set up now. Excursion is very low at any volume. One detail I forgot is that I'm running them up to 750hz/24db on the suggestion of another member. Low enough that beaming won't be a factor but high enough that it makes life easy for the 3.5s with great dynamics. Tried them up to 2khz, they do fine up there but the 3.5s definitely cover it better.


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## porscheman

had a usd-840's in the doors of my 944 at one time. was a bit of work as they are fairly deep and as anyone knows the doors are a might bit on the slim side


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## adrenalinejunkie

BuickGN said:


> One of life's big questions, should I check the 10" or the 8-9" poll box?



If Dyn calls it a 10", hit it.


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## BuickGN

adrenalinejunkie said:


> If Dyn calls it a 10", hit it.


I like your way of thinking.


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## Candisa

Looking at the size of it, I'd say it's a 9", but Dynaudio calls it a 10... 
<voice=spooky>Let your conscience decide what's the right thing to do</voice>


PS.: My doors don't even come with decent speaker-locations to make a bit bigger, only a tight-fit 5,25" at halfway-height, and I have manual windows... I guess I won't get off that easy 
PS2.: The window-handle it mounted a lot more to the front in reality, right behind the stock speaker...


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## IBcivic

Peerless HDS/XLS 8 in an 06 Civic coupe.
Initially I had built the doors for HAT L8v1, which I ran for a year. The O.D. of the XLS was 225mm vs. the Hybrid's 215mm O.D.
So I made myself a jig out of MDF and used my circle jig/router to trim the Peerless's flange down and re-drill the mounting holes.








Forgive the dust and fingerprints:blush:


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## traceywatts

Candisa said:


> Looking at the size of it, I'd say it's a 9", but Dynaudio calls it a 10...
> <voice=spooky>Let your conscience decide what's the right thing to do</voice>
> 
> 
> PS.: My doors don't even come with decent speaker-locations to make a bit bigger, only a tight-fit 5,25" at halfway-height, and I have manual windows... I guess I won't get off that easy
> PS2.: The window-handle it mounted a lot more to the front in reality, right behind the stock speaker...


where did you find that diagram?


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## Candisa

I think I typed "Volvo 940 door card" or something similar in Google Pictures...


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## thehatedguy

I had ID8s behind the factory panels in my old Accord. Windows didn't go all the way down from bumping the magnets...but it kept the interior looking stock.


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## BuickGN

thehatedguy said:


> I had ID8s behind the factory panels in my old Accord. Windows didn't go all the way down from bumping the magnets...but it kept the interior looking stock.


Were they flush mounted? When my window hits the last 1/2" of travel it makes a small clunk from tapping the magnet. It goes all the way down luckily. I need to space the window frame or reset the window memory to not go down the last 1/2" on auto down.


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## niceguy

I'll have to get and edit in pics but my old/previous work van, a 1994 Grand Voyager had only 3.5" in the dash and 6x9s in the rear liftgate. I cut out the door card and metal door skin to fit 6.5s with a jigsaw and other various metal eating tools and went through Silverflute wool cone 6.5s (sitting in garage for 5 years now lol), Goldwood 6.5s (cheap and quickly sold), Peerless CSC-X 6.5s and then ID OEM V1 6.5s w/the carbon fiber looking cone and phase plug...

I bought a pair of black steel mesh CSS grills and mounted them to the door card to give excursion clearance since the doors were pancake flat.

The panels were covered w/plexi and silicone and duct tape lol and the mids/Northcreek (Scanspeak derivative) large format home audio tweets were powered by a Next Vrz4.400 that I bought when first joining DIYMA...

My new '08 Uplander has slim Massive Audio SX6 point source coaxials for now but after running the ID OEMs active for a bit (or my AA poly cones or old Peerless HDS mids) I'm going for 8s...

Jeremy


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## thehatedguy

For the most part they were. I had a 1/4" aluminum baffle glued to the door skin using body panel adhesive- made a baffle, cut the same shape out of the door skin, and glued the flat aluminum one in place.

These guys were pretty deep speakers, no hope for the window to go all the way down. And the car wasn't modern enough to have window memory.

I was wondering if yours hit at all.



BuickGN said:


> Were they flush mounted? When my window hits the last 1/2" of travel it makes a small clunk from tapping the magnet. It goes all the way down luckily. I need to space the window frame or reset the window memory to not go down the last 1/2" on auto down.


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## thehatedguy

I only know of a couple SQ cars with door speakers that were larger than 8/9s...large door speakers have gained a lot of fans in the SPL community.

Steve Head (audionutz on the forum) built a S-10 truck in the early part of the century that had Oz Audio 12s in the doors.


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## adrenalinejunkie

thehatedguy said:


> I only know of a couple SQ cars with door speakers that were larger than 8/9s...large door speakers have gained a lot of fans in the SPL community.
> 
> Steve Head (audionutz on the forum) built a S-10 truck in the early part of the century that had Oz Audio 12s in the doors.



Whoa! You know if he has a build log? 'bout to check...


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## thehatedguy

It was Bobby's S-10 before it had the dash build. I don't see the pictures of it on Steve's site anymore...there used to be a ton of pictures of it on ECA back in the day.


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## thehatedguy

Chevy S10 Double Trouble Subwoofer Photo 5


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## oilman

Stock over a year ago









Here is my DIY. Don't laugh it was my first attempt at modding doors. I made pods for some 6.5 BA SPZ's 1/2 cube. I did this the fist week I had the car. My wife flipped. 2012 Elantra with less than 300 miles. When I bought this car I needed something to make the long haul to the office daily. I had nothing on my mind but SQ system, so I started hacking. 

















Here is the second attempt. I had a installer help me finish it. 

























And here they are today. 9" AT's I thought about doing this myself but couldn't make it look as good as someone how dose it for a living.


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## GlasSman

adrenalinejunkie said:


> If Dyn calls it a 10", hit it.


Yeeeeah....but it's a 9".

Go by the ruler....not the marketing.


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## BuickGN

GlasSman said:


> Yeeeeah....but it's a 9".
> 
> Go by the ruler....not the marketing.


9.5"  Do I round up or do I go off of cone area? Its so unimportant yet I can't bring myself to vote yet lol.

Kirk has some 9" ATs in his TL, would it be wrong to post some pics from his build thread in here?


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## adrenalinejunkie

Round it. That's what they taught us!


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## GlasSman

thehatedguy said:


> I had ID8s behind the factory panels in my old Accord. Windows didn't go all the way down from bumping the magnets...but it kept the interior looking stock.


v2's or v3's with the Superman logo magnet cover?

I always wanted to try the ID8v3 for midbass but I never got around to it since my IDQ8's were so badass.


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## thehatedguy

V3s. Not a good midbass at all.

Good sub, horrible midbass.


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## GlasSman

BuickGN said:


> 9.5"  Do I round up or do I go off of cone area? Its so unimportant yet I can't bring myself to vote yet lol.
> 
> Kirk has some 9" ATs in his TL, would it be wrong to post some pics from his build thread in here?


Just go by the frame since thats the way it's done.

I say speakers should be measured by the actual cone....not including the surround since cone area is what matters.

I'd love to see pics of Kirks install....don't think I've seen any of the current install.


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## JJAZ

*4 x 5.25"* in each door.. So that would be a multiple that isn't in the voting list 

There is room for 4 x 6.5" in the door cards, but I had plenty of nice 5.25" Peerless HDS spare drivers, and none in the 6.5" size.

Thus I opted to start with the 5.25" drivers and made adapters for them to fit the 6.5" cut-outs.


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## oilman

The AT's run close to 7.5lbs each and 4 1/2" deep. It took a lot modification and structure for both Kirk and me to get those in our cars.


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## BuickGN

oilman said:


> The AT's run close to 7.5lbs each and 4 1/2" deep. It took a lot modification and structure for both Kirk and me to get those in our cars.


The 9" Dyn that I used weighs 4lbs and is 3" even. I wonder if the difference is mainly in the magnet structure? I think I got lucky, with this driver being shallow for a 9/10" and the TL having abnormally deep doors, it was simple. The main thing I can see is the Dyn having the magnet inside of the voice coil, would this be the main reason for the difference in size and weight? I came close to getting the ATs but I couldn't find a way around cutting the side impact beam and that's a mod I'm not willing to make.


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## instalher

in my 03 civic. got a sws 8 in each door.. nice!


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## BuickGN

Anyone else got some pictures?


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## thehatedguy

Not that I can get right now.

But your dyns are badassed, always had soft spot for them. And bigger is always when it comes to the heart and soul of the music.


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## BuickGN

thehatedguy said:


> Not that I can get right now.
> 
> But your dyns are badassed, always had soft spot for them. And bigger is always when it comes to the heart and soul of the music.


I love you.


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## Wesayso

JJAZ said:


> *4 x 5.25"* in each door.. So that would be a multiple that isn't in the voting list
> 
> There is room for 4 x 6.5" in the door cards, but I had plenty of nice 5.25" Peerless HDS spare drivers, and none in the 6.5" size.
> 
> Thus I opted to start with the 5.25" drivers and made adapters for them to fit the 6.5" cut-outs.


How does that sound? Pretty cool setup!


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## oilman

here is the underside of the AT, yes the magnet is big.
















I&#146;m almost afraid to say this because it&#146;s hearsay but I was told that the AT&#146;s are from the same designer as Dynaudio. By looking at them side-by-side I don&#146;t see much in common other than the cone is similar. Does anyone know if this is true?

Maybe there are more similarities. The back of the magnets look close.


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## BuickGN

I'm pretty sure thats true. He founded Dyn and Scan. I know there are several members who can verify. I'm sure about Dyn and pretty sure about Scan.


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## splaudiohz




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## Candisa

Keep 'em coming guys!

I posted a drawing of the doors of my car on the previous page... Well, I'm considering putting a 12" non-shallow subwoofer in there!
Before somebody asks: No, I haven't got a clue yet how I'll do that 

Isabelle


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## thehatedguy

www.audiotechnology.dk

Click on Profile. Last sentence first paragraph.


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## JJAZ

Wesayso said:


> How does that sound? Pretty cool setup!


Not too bad, I would say  Though I am still tweaking it, the sub does not sound quite as I want it to.

But I cannot complain about the midbass from the doors, it is great


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## TheScottishBear

10" Goldwood in the doors. LPF (24db) 240 watts
Goldwood GW-10PC-4 10" Heavy Duty Woofer 4 Ohm 290-322








It's not the prettiest that's for sure but I never claimed to be an fiberglassing expert. lol I would like to try a 12" but rebuilding and dampening the door and using these drivers might be a better idea.

I am on the hunt for a midrange, 8 or 10"; to go with my horns (full size ID bodies/selenium2500ti/ 1500 hpf 24db) so I have a gap in freq. response at the moment. They are going in the kicks. hehehe. The car is apart as I am rebuilding my wall with 4 18" tuned to 25 hz so no real hurry. It is a demo machine for sure.


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## Hanatsu

Thinking of building an enclosure for my DLS Iridium, big issues with my doors. Impossible to get rid of the rattles IB mounted. The DLS are at least not that deep as the Anarchys, I believe DLS shared some of the design with older Dyn on this model. 3" VC, chassis is similar as well. They play as small subs IB, good response down to 45Hz and they get loud. Sounds like **** above 1.5kHz though, not that matter in a 3-way front anyway... Ä


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## Lorin

took my door apart last night and started the process of going to an 8 inch peerless. Will be a tight fit as adaptor is not much larger than the driver if I am to keep my stock door panel \ pocket. The 3.5 depth is very tight. May have to add another 1/4 inch to baffle. Any easy ways or recommendations to do so? gasket tape, dynamat? I already glued one layer of cld tile between two layers of wood to improve isolation. Seem to recall dynamat offering a product years ago that was basically mdf with cld between and then bonded. Figured it is worth a shot. Used liquid nails to apply on the foil side. We will see how it goes. Will likely take some pics along the way and post when complete. It may be a week or two before complete though, trying not to rush this one.


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## SoulMan76

I only have 6.5's like most, but I do think I could fit bigger in there. I'd really love to try a nice 8", but I know it would require cutting and glassing the door card or something even more drastic. 

Here's my pics..nothing special


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## Candisa

Don't feel bad for "only having a single 6.5" guys!
We used to think about buying a brand new car with an extended warranty and service program, to make the monthly car-budget more predictable...

No way we would have hacked up the doors, dashboard... to fit a 3-ways frontset with 8" midbasswoofers in it, with the risk of having issues making it as nice as stock...
It would have been a "simple" 2-ways frontset with 6.5" midwoofer and compact tweeter!

We've always driven (and still drive) around in cheap old cars that ain't worth much more than the metal + easy to sell parts, so we don't care about hacking the doors and dashboard of our old beaters, it doesn't affect resale-value anyways...


About my Volvo:
I've taken off a door-panel:
- multiple 6.5's or 1 or 2 8-9" woofer should be able to fit without problems
- a single or maybe 2 10" woofers would fit if I convert the window-mechanism to electric (now manual)
- 12"... I sure want to try it, but I'm affraid a regular 12" driver will be very hard to fit because of the position of the window mechanism

We have a pair of electric window mechanisms of a 1998-2005 model 3dr Renault Clio laying around... I think about fitting those instead of OEM-system for my car, since these mechanisms work with a vertical rail and more flexiblity to choose the position of the motor, instead of a scissor-mechanism that can only be mounted 1 way...
This requires more modification on the door-metal and drilling a hole in the glass (EEK!!!), IF it fits, so that's a bit of a risk because there's no way back...
If I attempt this and fail, I'll need 2 "new" doors and windows!!!

Isabelle


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## IBcivic

Candisa said:


> Don't feel bad for "only having a single 6.5" guys!
> We used to think about buying a brand new car with an extended warranty and service program, to make the monthly car-budget more predictable...
> 
> No way we would have hacked up the doors, dashboard... to fit a 3-ways frontset with 8" midbasswoofers in it, with the risk of having issues making it as nice as stock...
> It would have been a "simple" 2-ways frontset with 6.5" midwoofer and compact tweeter!
> 
> We've always driven (and still drive) around in cheap old cars that ain't worth much more than the metal + easy to sell parts, so we don't care about hacking the doors and dashboard of our old beaters, it doesn't affect resale-value anyways...
> 
> 
> About my Volvo:
> I've taken off a door-panel:
> - multiple 6.5's or 1 or 2 8-9" woofer should be able to fit without problems
> - a single or maybe 2 10" woofers would fit if I convert the window-mechanism to electric (now manual)
> - 12"... I sure want to try it, but I'm affraid a regular 12" driver will be very hard to fit because of the position of the window mechanism
> 
> We have a pair of electric window mechanisms of a 1998-2005 model 3dr Renault Clio laying around... I think about fitting those instead of OEM-system for my car, since these mechanisms work with a vertical rail and more flexiblity to choose the position of the motor, instead of a scissor-mechanism that can only be mounted 1 way...
> This requires more modification on the door-metal and drilling a hole in the glass (EEK!!!), IF it fits, so that's a bit of a risk because there's no way back...
> If I attempt this and fail, I'll need 2 "new" doors and windows!!!
> 
> Isabelle


If the glass is *tempered*, you cannot drill w/o it risking to turn into a pile of rock-salt.


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## Candisa

That's exactly what I fear...
The only solution I can think of is make something that can be attached to the window-side positions of the stock mechanism and drill a hole in that, just below the glass... Some kind of adaptor...

This might cause the windows not to go down all the way, but that's not a real issue, as long as they go down enough to grab/insert the tickets of pay-parkinglots and get an occasional drive-in meal...

Isabelle


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## oilman

In some models the replacement door panels can be had for cheap. But I agree I wouldn't fab a high end car to the point of no return. Hence me buying a Hyundai to hack. I don't feel so bad hacking it up and I plan to keep it as a competition car even after I get sick of driving it.


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## [email protected]

Hanatsu said:


> Thinking of building an enclosure for my DLS Iridium, big issues with my doors. Impossible to get rid of the rattles IB mounted. The DLS are at least not that deep as the Anarchys, *I believe DLS shared some of the design with older Dyn on this model*. 3" VC, chassis is similar as well. They play as small subs IB, good response down to 45Hz and they get loud. Sounds like **** above 1.5kHz though, not that matter in a 3-way front anyway... Ä


Not Dynaudio, but Morel


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## Wesayso

6.5" for a 2 way for me... 









I know I could fit bigger, that is shown in this post from FLYONWALL9. 

I can understand why you'd want bigger but I am not ready to do it (yet).


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## Candisa

Well, I find 6.5" to be a perfect size for 2-ways frontsets. 
8" Woofers beam quite a bit earlier, which make them a lot less suitable to couple with a tweeter.
5.25" Woofers only beam at a higher point, which makes it easier on the tweeters, but they lack the displacement to cross low ànd have convincing mid-bass when using only 1 per side...

If you don't want to go 3-ways front, but upgrade from a normal 2-ways frontset, it's better to add another 6.5" with a +-300Hz low-pass on it (active by splitting the midwoofer signal to a second pair of amp-channels and apply a LPF on the amp, or passive by wiring it in parallel to the main midwoofer but with a coil+cap-network to act as 12dB LPF)...

This gives you twice the displacement to reach lower with more authority, still point-source in the mid-range, but doesn't require any real extra processing unlike a 3-ways frontset...

Isabelle


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## analogrocker

instalher said:


> in my 03 civic. got a sws 8 in each door.. nice!


How do those sound for midbass? A year ago I was considering using them but I was put off because I couldn't find inductance specs or frequency response specs for them. They supposedly have massive Xmax, and that also puts me off because that probably implies high inductance and early roll off. The very shallow mounting depth is what's appealing about those.


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## instalher

sounded ok but really needed an enclosure. tones of upper mid bass 120hz. not alot of lower midbass 60hz.


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## Candisa

I decided against squeezing a pair of twelves in my doors: it's not that I'm going for a trunk-space-saving install anyways, and the modifications to my front doors would require me to invest too much time and energy in...

I'll put the 12" XXLS'es IB in the trunk and use my Soundstream SS8's for midbass instead. I have the amps and processing to do 3-ways front + sub anyways...

Maybe I'll upgrade the midbass-section in the future, with or without keeping subs in the trunk, but I think it's more important to just have a nice sounding system in my car first...
It'll be complicated enough without 12" in the doors: 7 amps, some AudioControl gear, 3-ways front with 2-ways center, ambient rear-fill...

Isabelle


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## BuickGN

Candisa said:


> I decided against squeezing a pair of twelves in my doors: it's not that I'm going for a trunk-space-saving install anyways, and the modifications to my front doors would require me to invest too much time and energy in...
> 
> I'll put the 12" XXLS'es IB in the trunk and use my Soundstream SS8's for midbass instead. I have the amps and processing to do 3-ways front + sub anyways...
> 
> Maybe I'll upgrade the midbass-section in the future, with or without keeping subs in the trunk, but I think it's more important to just have a nice sounding system in my car first...
> It'll be complicated enough without 12" in the doors: 7 amps, some AudioControl gear, 3-ways front with 2-ways center, ambient rear-fill...
> 
> Isabelle


12s would have been pretty neat. I bet you could fit some Dyn182s pretty easily.


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## Candisa

Lol, probably, but I'll do with what I've got: the Soundstream SS8's, it's a nice link to the oldskool (Same era I think?) Soundstream Reference 200 and 300 amps in my trunk and they should do just fine for 40 or 50Hz up to 250Hz (I'd like this to be lower, but the LPF on the midbass-channels of my Clarion HX-D2 don't go any lower than 250Hz)...

Isabelle


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## decibelle

A few months ago I bought a nameless 8" from partsexpress to serve as a temp midbass. Surprisingly it actually held up well and was a pretty solid driver for $8 a pop. I think I crossed it at 50 once and it hit like a mofo. Cleanliness is another story, but my whole car was in shambles at that point so I didn't care. I didn't even need to trim any metal for it to fit (even though I did anyway for reasons still unbeknownst to me). Then replaced them with my new Beyma 8BR40s in the kicks. Haven't used anything in the doors since.


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## thehatedguy

I would be surprised it those Soundstream 8s could reach 250 and sound good up there.


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## Candisa

Based on what?
They're Mms is only 37.6grams, combined with a BL of 9.6Tm and an Le of 0.95mH...
BL²/Mms ratio is about 2.5...

A popular driver for midbass-duty is the Peerless SLS8:
Mms: 34.78g (only slightly lighter)
BL: 8.26Tm
> BL²/Mms ratio: about 2
Le: 0.78mH

This one plays up to 500Hz easily, so why wouldn't the Soundstream SS8 play well up to 250Hz?

Isabelle


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## thehatedguy

I thought the le was higher.


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## Candisa

Here's a link to the manual: http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/sbw/SS81012R.pdf
Feel free to give a good look at it and please tell me if you see something that tells it would be a very bad idea to use it as a midbasswoofer up to 250Hz...

Isabelle


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## ansuser

Here is set of 9" Morel ADMW-9 in front doors of mk6 VW Golf.



























All 3 Way is in place:










It's yet to be nicely finished, but we're expecting snow next week


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## BuickGN

ansuser said:


> Here is set of 9" Morel ADMW-9 in front doors of mk6 VW Golf.
> 
> It's yet to be nicely finished, but we're expecting snow next week


How does it sound? Those look like great midbass speakers and they're probably the smallest 9" out there, less than 3" depth. What high and lowpass are you running?


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## ansuser

BuickGN said:


> How does it sound? Those look like great midbass speakers and they're probably the smallest 9" out there, less than 3" depth. What high and lowpass are you running?


I don't have sub and I have Founteks fr88ex as a midrange. I'm crossing them at 20 Hz 12 dB and 200 Hz (24db/octave), using MS-8. They integrate with founteks seamlessly at theese Xover frequencies.
Tryed to go with higher HP but did not like it at all (sound was bouncing under/above dashboard).
In fact, right now whole system is powered by MS-8 solely (the amp is in repair shop). So I can't really tell how they sound because I believe that they deserve more than just 18 watt of power :laugh: 
The only thing I can complain about is it's Fs value (declared as 44 Hz, but today (chilly morning) it measured ~50). I wished it were lower...
And one more thing: Qts could be a bit lower.


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## Ultimateherts

I was orginally going to do the Dayton RS270 10" woofer in my doors. I think you should check it out. It can play up to and easily past 500hz and is also lower power than most in this size!


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## Pitmaster

Here's what I wedged into my 2004 Accord.









Rough opening, diag. Uchannel, and shimmed window track.









View through speaker cut-out. Diag. support with second angle iron,notched for regulator running up to top back corner.









1/4" steel baffle and 1/4"steel ring with 1/8" sorbothane gasket.









Baffle assembly mounted with 1/4X20 bolts through 1/2" steel square tubing, all bolts to Uchannel. The original cut-out in the door is hammer & dollied to meet up with rear of baffle, sealed with rope butyl.









Remaining holes in the door sealed with sheet metal and CLD tiles.








HAT L8SE.









8.8" driver shoehorns in, just clearing factory trim panel and window. The grills are in the works. Midbass are running off a RF T8002 Power series at 4 ohms. They go down to the 28 hz subsonic filter and up to 200 [email protected]


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## splaudiohz

Pitmaster said:


> Here's what I wedged into my 2004 Accord.
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> View through speaker cut-out. Diag. support with second angle iron,notched for regulator running up to top back corner.
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> 1/4" steel baffle and 1/4"steel ring with 1/8" sorbothane gasket.
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> Baffle assembly mounted with 1/4X20 bolts through 1/2" steel square tubing, all bolts to Uchannel. The original cut-out in the door is hammer & dollied to meet up with rear of baffle, sealed with rope butyl.
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> Remaining holes in the door sealed with sheet metal and CLD tiles.
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> HAT L8SE.
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8.8" driver shoehorns in, just clearing factory trim panel and window. The grills are in the works. Midbass are running off a RF T8002 Power series at 4 ohms. They go down to the 28 hz subsonic filter and up to 200 [email protected]


You have a plasma cutter in your garage or a friend in a Cnc shop? Either way I like that setup


----------



## oilman

Pitmaster said:


> Here's what I wedged into my 2004 Accord.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rough opening, diag. Uchannel, and shimmed window track.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View through speaker cut-out. Diag. support with second angle iron,notched for regulator running up to top back corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1/4" steel baffle and 1/4"steel ring with 1/8" sorbothane gasket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Baffle assembly mounted with 1/4X20 bolts through 1/2" steel square tubing, all bolts to Uchannel. The original cut-out in the door is hammer & dollied to meet up with rear of baffle, sealed with rope butyl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remaining holes in the door sealed with sheet metal and CLD tiles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HAT L8SE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8.8" driver shoehorns in, just clearing factory trim panel and window. The grills are in the works. Midbass are running off a RF T8002 Power series at 4 ohms. They go down to the 28 hz subsonic filter and up to 200 [email protected]


Awesome!


----------



## Pitmaster

Thanks for the compliments!
A plasma cutter would have been great, but I gave the original templates to a local ironworks shop. The owner is very skilled with a oxy/acetaline cutting torch, almost as clean as a plasma.
The final trimming was done with a $20 HF air hacksaw.


----------



## CDT FAN

IBcivic said:


> Peerless HDS/XLS 8 in an 06 Civic coupe.
> Initially I had built the doors for HAT L8v1, which I ran for a year. The O.D. of the XLS was 225mm vs. the Hybrid's 215mm O.D.
> So I made myself a jig out of MDF and used my circle jig/router to trim the Peerless's flange down and re-drill the mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive the dust and fingerprints:blush:


How does the sound compare between the two?


----------



## IBcivic

CDT FAN said:


> How does the sound compare between the two?


I have not had time to fire them up in the doors, yet.
Initial testing gave me the impression that the peerless have better low-end abilities, other-wise very similar performance up to 400hz


----------



## DAT

CDT FAN said:


> How does the sound compare between the two?


I'm sure "P" sounds much better...


----------



## IBcivic

:surprised:Shhhh...let's not throw oil on the fire


----------



## subwoofery

DAT said:


> I'm sure "P" sounds much better...


Wondering why you hate "H" so much... Started to notice it whenever the "H" brand is mentioned ??????

Kelvin


----------



## oca123

8'' peerless XLS that I bought from some crazy canuk who posted above.

Was a b*tch to fit... I think it took me 8-10 hours total. A lot of that time was spent blaming IBCivic for my woes. I cut a fair amount of metal, and hacked up the door cards as well. There used to be mids in that location in the doors... no there's no more room for them so I moved them to the pillars.

Call me crazy if you want, but I think the proper word would be *dedicated*  Thanks IBCivic 

As to cutting up expensive cars.... blah.... who cares 

EDIT: I epoxied some earth magnets to the door cards. This allows the stock grilles, to fit snugly back in their position, if I keep xover settings at >60hz 12db. I tried running them at 20Hz/24db just for ****s and grins, and at high volumes, the cone sometimes would touch the grille.


----------



## oilman

oca123 said:


> 8'' peerless XLS that I bought from some crazy canuk who posted above.
> 
> Was a b*tch to fit... I think it took me 8-10 hours total. A lot of that time was spent blaming IBCivic for my woes. I cut a fair amount of metal, and hacked up the door cards as well. There used to be mids in that location in the doors... no there's no more room for them so I moved them to the pillars.
> 
> Call me crazy if you want, but I think the proper word would be *dedicated*  Thanks IBCivic
> 
> As to cutting up expensive cars.... blah.... who cares
> 
> EDIT: I epoxied some earth magnets to the door cards. This allows the stock grilles, to fit snugly back in their position, if I keep xover settings at >60hz 12db. I tried running them at 20Hz/24db just for ****s and grins, and at high volumes, the cone sometimes would touch the grille.


Dedicated is a nice word for it. You could almost start another thread on "why do we take it so far?" "Why can't we stop at good?"


----------



## oca123

oilman said:


> Dedicated is a nice word for it. You could almost start another thread on "why do we take it so far?" "Why can't we stop at good?"


I think a 12-step program might be more helpful to some of us. Hey, I have an idea, since a lot of you guys are in the armed forces, how about opening up some car audio rehabs in the middle east? when people join our rehabs, they will be required to donate all of their gear to us. 

I like the ADMW9 install above. I've had these before. They are great woofers. I thought the motor was a little noisy, but it coudl have been due to the limited amount of clearance they had (underseat midbass in bmw)

The PitMaster build is simply incredible. I think he would be a perfect first customer for the car audio rehab.


----------



## yuri

i had 10' in my doors ,,, full build link at the bottom of the page ////


----------



## Pitmaster

Thanks for the compliment OCA123.
And my wife would sign the rehab admission forms right now, but Yuri looks like he may get in ahead of me!


----------



## fenis

10" Faital Pro 10FE200's in my Subaru Legacy:









Nice match for my full size ID horns - very dynamic midbass!


----------



## oca123

Fenis, are these kicks or doors...? How do the pro audio drivers sound? I've been looking at 8'' Faital or Beyma drivers for a long time now.

Yuri, what are these? Alpine?

Dayton also makes shallow neo subs that could fit in doors....


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

This thread makes me want to install my Peerless 8" XLS.


----------



## fenis

oca123 said:


> Fenis, are these kicks or doors...? How do the pro audio drivers sound? I've been looking at 8'' Faital or Beyma drivers for a long time now.



They are in the doors. Pro audio drivers definitely have a different type of sound to them. They have a very 'dry' bass sound with no coloration and have awesome dynamics. Also due to the increased efficiency they sound more detailed at very loud volumes due to less power compression. So if you are after more of a concert/live sound that gets your heart pumping then go pro audio!! Are you running horns as well?


----------



## oca123

fenis said:


> They are in the doors. Pro audio drivers definitely have a different type of sound to them. They have a very 'dry' bass sound with no coloration and have awesome dynamics. Also due to the increased efficiency they sound more detailed at very loud volumes due to less power compression. So if you are after more of a concert/live sound that gets your heart pumping then go pro audio!! Are you running horns as well?


No, no horns. Peerless XLS in doors, and Audible Physics NZ3s in pillars. Currently playing with ribbon tweeters in pillars, and damn, these things are hot....
I don't think there is an elegant way to fit doors in my car. Even kicks are a stretch and probably wouldn't work well due to the massive center console.

I run IB subs, so I should be able to cross my midbass a little higher, which is why I've been wanting to play with pro audio midbass. I'm looking for that clean midbass that hits you in the chest... and I would use MJ's "Beat it" to quantify that amount of chest kick.... make sense?


----------



## SmallSoldier

Gents,

I'm planning on installing a couple of 8'' drivers in my doors and thinking about using some spacers in order to avoid having to cut any metal from the door frame, if the opening on the door frame is smaller than the driver itself, would this represent a problem? Would I have to cut the door frame regardless?

My idea is to build a "pod" let's say that is just a ring attached to the door card with fiberglass and the driver mounted against this "pod"... The pod itself will be attached to the door frame, using spacers from the door frame to the driver mounting ring and having probably some foam/weather strip/cld in between them... My biggest concern is that where the spacers meet the door frame, the opening in the door frame won't be the same size as the spacers (let's say that the opening will be 5'', while the spacer is 8'' ID)

Thanks for any advice you can give me... Still in planning stage (although, I already have the drivers)

Regards,
SS


----------



## oca123

SmallSoldier said:


> Gents,
> 
> I'm planning on installing a couple of 8'' drivers in my doors and thinking about using some spacers in order to avoid having to cut any metal from the door frame, if the opening on the door frame is smaller than the driver itself, would this represent a problem? Would I have to cut the door frame regardless?
> 
> My idea is to build a "pod" let's say that is just a ring attached to the door card with fiberglass and the driver mounted against this "pod"... The pod itself will be attached to the door frame, using spacers from the door frame to the driver mounting ring and having probably some foam/weather strip/cld in between them... My biggest concern is that where the spacers meet the door frame, the opening in the door frame won't be the same size as the spacers (let's say that the opening will be 5'', while the spacer is 8'' ID)
> 
> Thanks for any advice you can give me... Still in planning stage (although, I already have the drivers)
> 
> Regards,
> SS


As long as the back of the driver can vent into something, and the backwave is insulated from the front wave, it's fine. My 8'' peerless "breathe" into the door via a smaller opening. Not sure the size, but it's definitely not an 8'' circle. Some pictures would help.


----------



## SmallSoldier

Thanks Oca... I will take some pictures from the door and report back


----------



## tijuana_no

In 2010 I had ID-8's in the doors 

pics :


----------



## Pitmaster

Looks good.
How'd it sound?


----------



## tijuana_no

very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## bigfastmike

Anyone use bigger mids in a 2-way system? Was wondering how some dynaudio mw170s or L8se would sound with my scans crossed at 2500hz.


----------



## oilman

bigfastmike said:


> Anyone use bigger mids in a 2-way system? Was wondering how some dynaudio mw170s or L8se would sound with my scans crossed at 2500hz.


I would think you would have better results going with a midrange that could play up vs. a tweeter that could play down.


----------



## bigfastmike

I agree. Eventually I plan on getting some L3se but for now I was wanting to keep the scans. 
Ideally I should wait till I get both (maybe cram some 9in dynaudios) but I'm kinda impatient and I like to see if I can make things work. But 7in in lower doors and tweets on dash would be hard to pull off I'm sure.


----------



## n_olympios

I'm running a pair of "H" brand L8's. 

Stock door










Modified panel (shown here without the grilles)










It was meant to be a 3-way system from the beginning, thus the nearly 9" midbass units. However I can't run them on full blast as the doors are stupidly designed by the manufacturer.


----------



## Pitmaster

I saw your build a while ago on Buwaldahybrids forum.
Very nice! Still running L4's on top?


----------



## n_olympios

Thanks! Changed to L4SE's a while ago and they sound much nicer, even though I haven't fiddled with the rta/eq yet, just threw them in.


----------



## 07azhhr

n_olympios said:


> I'm running a pair of "H" brand L8's.
> 
> Stock door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified panel (shown here without the grilles)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was meant to be a 3-way system from the beginning, thus the nearly 9" midbass units. However I can't run them on full blast as the doors are stupidly designed by the manufacturer.


 
Very nice. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a set of those.


----------



## Coppertone

fenis said:


> 10" Faital Pro 10FE200's in my Subaru Legacy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice match for my full size ID horns - very dynamic midbass!


Very very nice, more information on your Subaru Legacy please. I'm referring to audio wise.


----------



## Pitmaster

n_olympios said:


> Thanks! Changed to L4SE's a while ago and they sound much nicer, even though I haven't fiddled with the rta/eq yet, just threw them in.


Thinking of moving my L4SE's to the pillars with the RR2's.
How much processing do I need to control the reflections?


----------



## subwoofery

Pitmaster said:


> Thinking of moving my L4SE's to the pillars with the RR2's.
> How much processing do I need to control the reflections?


You can't control reflections with a processor... 

Kelvin


----------



## Pitmaster

How much "equalization" was needed for your install, n olympios?


----------



## n_olympios

What difference does it make? Eq-ing depends on car, listening position, all sorts of stuff really. 

Anyway, although this isn't the suitable thread for it, I'll just say that I did need to tame certain frequencies due to the car's interior and the drivers' behaviour. IIRC I've fiddled with about 20-22 of my 31 bands of eq, if that says anything. 

Kelvin's right though, you can't cure reflections with processing.At best, you just try to make them work for you instead of against you, but that happens in the prior stage of processing: installing the drivers.


----------



## Pitmaster

Agreed, installation is everything.
This was a poorly phrased question on the wrong thread, my bad.
But thank you for your reply, and thank you Kelvin.


----------



## mitchyz250f

These are JBL 2204's (12") in the rear quarters of my RSX which is basically a hatch back civic. The enclosures are 1 cu/ft sealed. I used sub-woofer carpet to cover the fiberglassed panel. The carpet was easy to work with, hid my mistakes and stuck really good using 3M 77 spray adhesive. 4 screws hold the speaker to the enclosure and 4 screws sandwich the speaker between the enclosure and the fabricated panel.

The grill started as a Parts Express 15" grill that was cut to size using a router with carbide bit and then epoxy'd to a PVC frame. The PVC frame was mounted to the speaker with 4 magnets epoxy'd to the frame that sick to the 4 visible screws. Then covered with black grill cloth for that stealth look. If you a my car not a single speaker is visible.


----------



## oca123

mitchyz250f said:


> These are JBL 2204's (12") in the rear quarters of my RSX. The enclosures are 1 cu/ft sealed. I used sub-woofer carpet to cover the fiberglassed panel. The carpet was easy to work with, hid my mistakes and stuck really good using 3M spray adhesive. The grill was a Parts Express 15" grill that I cut the mesh out of using a router epoxy'd to a PVC frame, and mount to the speaker with 4 magnets. The magnets stick to the 4 screws that hold the fabricated quarter panel rigidly to the speaker. Then covered with black grill cloth.


Very nice. How long has this been installed? I'm curious as to how long the 3M glue lasts before peeling off


----------



## req

8 inch peerless drivers in a mk4 2003 gti










IDQ8's in the same car

















exodus anarchy 6.5's in the same car

























honestly, the exodus are just as good as the IDQ8 IMO.


----------



## oca123

req said:


> honestly, the exodus are just as good as the IDQ8 IMO.


 - How do they compare to the peerless? I know 8s have close to 2x the cone area of 6.5s. Were they in a 2-way or 3-way? I see the IDs were angled up


----------



## jboen

Would I be crazy to put 1 of these in each of my rear doors of a 2012 F150 supercab to save space within the cab?

AudioSavings - Item Images


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## oilman

Love the alpine setup. 










Nice doors too


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## mitchyz250f

oca123 said:


> Very nice. How long has this been installed? I'm curious as to how long the 3M glue lasts before peeling off


This install is about 2 years old. If you spray the panel and the carpet with 3M 77 it will stick like a mofo. I tried the same method on cloth and it did not work so well. But with carpet it is amazing and very easy to install. When and if it starts to peel I will put on some slightly better looking carpet.


----------



## BuickGN

mitchyz250f said:


> These are JBL 2204's (12") in the rear quarters of my RSX which is basically a hatch back civic. The enclosures are 1 cu/ft sealed. I used sub-woofer carpet to cover the fiberglassed panel. The carpet was easy to work with, hid my mistakes and stuck really good using 3M 77 spray adhesive. 4 screws hold the speaker to the enclosure and 4 screws sandwich the speaker between the enclosure and the fabricated panel.
> 
> The grill started as a Parts Express 15" grill that was cut to size using a router with carbide bit and then epoxy'd to a PVC frame. The PVC frame was mounted to the speaker with 4 magnets epoxy'd to the frame that sick to the 4 visible screws. Then covered with black grill cloth for that stealth look. If you a my car not a single speaker is visible.


I always like seeing your setup, it's an inspiration.... and it makes my 9s in the doors seem tame, like I'm normal afterall. Got dynamics?




req said:


> 8 inch peerless drivers in a mk4 2003 gti
> 
> 
> IDQ8's in the same car
> 
> 
> honestly, the exodus are just as good as the IDQ8 IMO.


That's surprising to hear. So would you say the Exodus are just as good as the IDQ on the bottom end or just as good overall? You have/had the pair of IDQ15s IB in the hatch, right? I always use one of your pictures when people say you can't do IB in a hatch. Those 8s look huge in those doors, by looking at them, they look like a large 10".


----------



## Thrill_House

mitchyz250f said:


> These are JBL 2204's (12") in the rear quarters of my RSX which is basically a hatch back civic. The enclosures are 1 cu/ft sealed. I used sub-woofer carpet to cover the fiberglassed panel. The carpet was easy to work with, hid my mistakes and stuck really good using 3M 77 spray adhesive. 4 screws hold the speaker to the enclosure and 4 screws sandwich the speaker between the enclosure and the fabricated panel.
> 
> The grill started as a Parts Express 15" grill that was cut to size using a router with carbide bit and then epoxy'd to a PVC frame. The PVC frame was mounted to the speaker with 4 magnets epoxy'd to the frame that sick to the 4 visible screws. Then covered with black grill cloth for that stealth look. If you a my car not a single speaker is visible.


Thats awesome, any pics of the backside of the panels and enclosures?


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## oca123

I just read about the exodus. Now I wish they made an 8'' midbass.


----------



## oca123

jboen said:


> Would I be crazy to put 1 of these in each of my rear doors of a 2012 F150 supercab to save space within the cab?
> 
> AudioSavings - Item Images


Depends on what your goals are. When I first started doing car audio stuff, I did everything everyone said not to do, and I learned in the process. I wouldn't want to go back.

Come to think of it, that's pretty much what I do, all the time.

EDIT: these are 6.5s. Are you intending to use them as subs inside these doors?


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

oca123 said:


> I just read about the exodus. Now I wish they made an 8'' midbass.




I believe they're actually 7". They have some potential from what I hear. Good driver if you have the mounting depth.


----------



## mitchyz250f

1st pic is the enclosure without the fiberglass back
2nd pic is with the fiberglass back
3rd pic is installed in the door.

You look at the pics and it appears that I am sooo handy and good at fabricating. What you don't see are the previous 6 trys that didn't turn out so well. 

Then JBL 2204's look massive. When they are turning your brains to mush, you can barely see them move.


----------



## oca123

mitchyz250f said:


> This install is about 2 years old. If you spray the panel and the carpet with 3M 77 it will stick like a mofo. I tried the same method on cloth and it did not work so well. But with carpet it is amazing and very easy to install. When and if it starts to peel I will put on some slightly better looking carpet.


Got it. It doens't work well on vinyl, that's why I asked.


----------



## jboen

oca123 said:


> Depends on what your goals are. When I first started doing car audio stuff, I did everything everyone said not to do, and I learned in the process. I wouldn't want to go back.
> 
> Come to think of it, that's pretty much what I do, all the time.
> 
> EDIT: these are 6.5s. Are you intending to use them as subs inside these doors?


Ahh yes, very true! I would indeed be trying to use them as subs inside doors but the more I think about it the more it wouldnt work to well without fabrication.


----------



## cchrono

Here are some in progress pics of what im currently working on Hybrid L8's in BMW X3 Doors.


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## IBcivic

oca123 said:


> I just read about the exodus. Now I wish they made an 8'' midbass.


Don't we all


----------



## subwoofery

cchrono said:


> Here are some in progress pics of what im currently working on Hybrid L8's in BMW X3 Doors.


Year of your X3? My miss may buy one soon... Thanks 

Kelvin


----------



## cchrono

subwoofery said:


> Year of your X3? My miss may buy one soon... Thanks
> 
> Kelvin


2004


----------



## SmallSoldier

oca123 said:


> As long as the back of the driver can vent into something, and the backwave is insulated from the front wave, it's fine. My 8'' peerless "breathe" into the door via a smaller opening. Not sure the size, but it's definitely not an 8'' circle. Some pictures would help.


Oca,

The following are a couple of pictures I took with my cell phone while deadening the doors... As yo can see, the possible vent for te driver is triangular in shape and goes from 4" to 5"... I will have to use some spacers to be able to place the MW172's because there is no way they will fit without me cutting the sheet metal... If I do have to cut it, then I wouldn't need so deep spacers (right now the spacers would have to have the same depth as the driver itself)

I hope I won't have to cut the sheet metal, but I am concerned about the drivers breathing through such a small opening

Thanks again for any advice you or anyone else could provide me!

Happy Thanksgiving,
SS


----------



## IBcivic

SmallSoldier said:


> Oca,
> 
> The following are a couple of pictures I took with my cell phone while deadening the doors... As yo can see, the possible vent for te driver is triangular in shape and goes from 4" to 5"... I will have to use some spacers to be able to place the MW172's because there is no way they will fit without me cutting the sheet metal... If I do have to cut it, then I wouldn't need so deep spacers (right now the spacers would have to have the same depth as the driver itself)
> 
> I hope I won't have to cut the sheet metal, but I am concerned about the drivers breathing through such a small opening
> 
> Thanks again for any advice you or anyone else could provide me!
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving,
> SS


The opening is theoretically large enough, but the magnet will probably hog up the opening.


----------



## SmallSoldier

IBcivic,

If I were to try an leave 1/4" to 1/2" from the end of the driver to the opening, would that help me overcome the issue?

Thanks for the advice, is encouraging to know that I may avoid cutting the door metal!

Regards,
SS


----------



## BuickGN

Something to think about, the Dyn MW182 has a smaller profile than the 172. There's a chance that despite its larger diameter it might fit in areas the 172 won't.


----------



## req

BuickGN said:


> I always like seeing your setup, it's an inspiration.... and it makes my 9s in the doors seem tame, like I'm normal afterall. Got dynamics?
> 
> That's surprising to hear. So would you say the Exodus are just as good as the IDQ on the bottom end or just as good overall? You have/had the pair of IDQ15s IB in the hatch, right? I always use one of your pictures when people say you can't do IB in a hatch. Those 8s look huge in those doors, by looking at them, they look like a large 10".


haha thanks dude 

i want to go bigger, do crazier things. but it comes down to having a car to drive to work and a place to fab in. i would have neither of those. i will be buying a house soon, and maybe in a few years a 'toy' car that i can do whatever i need to for my sound goals.

i dont know if it was the 'enclosure' or the speakers. the crossovers for the idq8's were always there to mate with the cd2ultra or the or the new neo ultras, so a crossover around [email protected]\oct was in use on them. the anarchies i tried 2-way as well with conventional tweeters around 1.5k with all kinds of slopes\points without major success. i think both the idq8's and the anarchies dont excell well in the midrange up there 1k+. the stage always pulled down and diffused the center. maybe it was just my lack of ability to tune or whatever.

but when i crossed them from like 50hz~300hz (the q's or the anarchies) all hell broke loose and i would cry thinking of how much more vibration isolation i needed to sustain the amplitude. the midbass out of both of them is amazing. the depth of the anarchies is crazy, and they both have similar xmax characteristics. idq was around 8~10mm iirc, and the anarchy is 10~12mm i think, but the idq has more surface area. i mean, if you cant fit an 8, and have depth - then do it. but if you can fit an 8 or larger - there are more options. i guess the big drawback with the anarchy is the depth, its 4" deep. thats ****in crazy. i would love it if they made an 8 though. its a badass speaker - and that i can fit it under my stock door panel is even better.

the idq8's looked bigger in the doors because of the enclosures, but they really didnt get in the way much. i tried to get them a bit more on axis - but it just ended up lowering the stage width. so it didnt work out all that well. but they were awesome speakers.

the idq15's were badass too - i think i did a 143db on the TL with the IB off 800w with a memphis bell at 2 ohm (dvc2 x2). but over the course of 7 years IB with gobs of power - the suspensions started stressing. there was a little spider sag and one of the spiders started comming apart. after all those years i get it. i was never easy on them.

so the turning point now. i think i am going to put 18's in now. i have idmax12's in there now with ~600w @ 2 ohm each from my mosconi as200.4's. so i think i am going to pull that baffle. build a new one from steel and baltic birch, and then drop some 18's with a bit of xmax and higher efficiency in there and see what can be done. i like being able to move air - and have my SQ at the same time, and i think my car needs some better infrasonics 

itterations of my IB setups in cronological order; 

2001 saturn SL2 image dynamics idq15v2d2









2003 vw gti (in between building the IB in the next picture) image dynamics idq15v2d2









2003 vw gti (first) image dynamics idq15v2d2









upgrade time - image dynamics idmaxv3d4




















sorry for the off topic. everyone likes pictures


----------



## Randyman...

I had Speakerpimp from Car Tunes knock-out my 9" Morel Elate woofers in the doors (also seriously sealed and deadened the doors). I'm really digging the killer sound and raw SPL from these boogers! As a bonus - the install looks 100% Stock! (2013 4Runner has factory 6x9's in the front doors):


----------



## quietfly

Randyman... said:


> I had Speakerpimp from Car Tunes knock-out my 9" Morel Elate woofers in the doors (also seriously sealed and deadened the doors). I'm really digging the killer sound and raw SPL from these boogers! As a bonus - the install looks 100% Stock! (2013 4Runner has factory 6x9's in the front doors):


looks Great!!


----------



## CDT FAN

That speaker and pod fits behind the door panel? It looks too large from the photos. How would you compare those drivers to others you've tried?


----------



## Randyman...

Yep - Speakerpimp lives up to his name  I was a little shocked when he told me we could fit them in w/o modifying the factory panels. Then once I saw his work in progress - I was stunned at the overal quality and attention to detail. The 5th Gen 4Runners use stock 6x9's in the front doors - so it wasn't too much of a stretch...

This is a brand-new vehicle, and this is its maiden install.

The only other "substantial" midbasses I've run beyond 6.5"s was over 15-20 years ago when I had two Punch 8"s in each door in my Mazda B2200 (not sealed very well At ALL!) - and due to the quality of the Morels and Speakerpimp's awesome install, the Morels dominate my recollection of the dual Punch 8's in my old B2200 pickup...

I had dual MB Quart 6.5's in each door of my last install ('99 Tacoma TRD X-Tra Cab - had a quasi 3-way by rolling off the second 6.5" around 300Hz with a passive inductor), and the Morels stomp all over it forwards and backwards (and with the same power amp, too!).

These are supplemented with the morel integra Ovation XO 4" point Source drivers in the factory dash locations (also mounted by Speakerpimp).

This was my first time to pay anyone for their Car Audio expertise as an installer (I'm hardcore DIY with everything in my life) - but I'm glad I did as my new 4Runner deserves this type of perfection IMO...


----------



## oca123

Randyman, I also have 6x9 stock locations, but I'm not sure I can fit 9''s in there. Getting peerless XLS 8s to fit in there was a stretch, but then again, I am no Speakerpimp 
Would you mind asking him if he's ever worked with a Bentley CGT, and if so whether:
- He was able to fit 9s in the doors, or
- If he thinks it is possible without relocating the glass/lock/etc. controllers

If the answer to either of these 2 questions is yes, I hope his rates are reasonable


----------



## Randyman...

He's on this very forum. He's local to me in Webster Texas - Works at "Car Tunes". Shoot him a PM and tell him I sent you 

DIYMA Car Audio Forum - View Profile: speakerpimp

I was impressed to no end with his enthusiasm, professionalism, and overall passion for Audio. He's been around the block a few times (as have I)  As far as I'm concerned, he is worth every penny of what he charges. Not outrageous, but not cheap either (I wouldn't expect to get such results "on the cheap" anyways).

They always have high-end rides in their shop. I know my 4Runner is no Bently, but it's the single most expensive thing I've purchased brand new in my 38 years - and I implicitly trusted Sperkerpimp with my ride...

Here's some more of his work on my 4Runner:

(Scroll Down to Speakerpimp's post)

Check out the craftsmanship on the RUX-C800 mount! Amazing IMNSHO...


----------



## Golden Ear

I'm glad to be reading this right now because I'm trying to decide between the Morels and a couple different Dynaudio models. I have 6x8s in my f250 doors and am dying to get some 8 or 9s in there. Nice job! I'm usually a DIYer as well but I know what you mean about having it done nicely the first time by a pro. Looks great and I'm glad to hear it sounds great. I'll put the Morels on the top of my list.


----------



## CDT FAN

oca123 said:


> Randyman, I also have 6x9 stock locations, but I'm not sure I can fit 9''s in there. Getting peerless XLS 8s to fit in there was a stretch, but then again, I am no Speakerpimp
> Would you mind asking him if he's ever worked with a Bentley CGT, and if so whether:
> - He was able to fit 9s in the doors, or
> - If he thinks it is possible without relocating the glass/lock/etc. controllers
> 
> If the answer to either of these 2 questions is yes, I hope his rates are reasonable


LOL. You drive a Bentley and you're worried about rates?


----------



## Randyman...

CDT FAN said:


> LOL. You drive a Bentley and you're worried about rates?


Sorry - But that is some funny shizzle! :laugh4:


----------



## Randyman...

Golden Ear said:


> I'm glad to be reading this right now because I'm trying to decide between the Morels and a couple different Dynaudio models. I have 6x8s in my f250 doors and am dying to get some 8 or 9s in there. Nice job! I'm usually a DIYer as well but I know what you mean about having it done nicely the first time by a pro. Looks great and I'm glad to hear it sounds great. I'll put the Morels on the top of my list.


The Morels are very nice indeed.

I'm also a huge Dynaudio fan as I run their AIR-15's L/R, AIR-6 (single/Center), AIR-BASE-2's (L/R Subs), and BM6P's (surrounds/Mix B) at home (a Frankenstein mixing system and home-theater setup) - And I was initially leaning towards some Dynaudio car audio speakers.

I was informed about the Morel Point Source drivers, and that was all it took! I decided on the Elate 9"s for a matching system.

I probably just made your decision even harder - sorry 'bout that 

It was indeed hard to "hand-off" my ride to someone else - but I knew I'd be ecstatic with the results. No futzing around for months and years with experiments and crap - done right the first time!

Rock on


----------



## DAT

I'm using the new Intimid8er 8 from Melodic acoustic. 

In my application these far exceed the dyn 182 and morel elates I used before. 

He ( Mark Brooks ) has them on pre order


----------



## Golden Ear

Those look sweet. My dilemma is I have store credit with Woofers etc and have to choose between the Dynaudio 170, 172, 180, Morel ADMW9, and JL ZR800.


----------



## BuickGN

DAT said:


> I'm using the new Intimid8er 8 from Melodic acoustic.
> 
> In my application these far exceed the dyn 182 and morel elates I used before.
> 
> He ( Mark Brooks ) has them on pre order


In what way do they far exceed Dyns and Morel?


----------



## DAT

BuickGN said:


> In what way do they far exceed Dyns and Morel?


matt?

I've tried Elate , Supremo, and and ADMW's... all great speakers, the Dyn's I've tried E650, 170, and 182 series... they were good too.

But man these 8's Mark has out is so much more detail ( paper cone ), impact, and lower end.

I run them 50hz and above but could go lower infact try and put 150w rms on any of the above speakers without a crossover and they will choke.


----------



## Golden Ear

I'll likely be crossing them around the 63hz mark, especially since my sub will be right next to me  I have to ask, of the ADMW9, 170,172 & 180 which would you chose for 63-300hz? Going in the front doors of my F250. Thanx Dave!


----------



## DAT

Golden Ear said:


> I'll likely be crossing them around the 63hz mark, especially since my sub will be right next to me  I have to ask, of the ADMW9, 170,172 & 180 which would you chose for 63-300hz? Going in the front doors of my F250. Thanx Dave!


doors with add mat in and on them, probably go 180 then ADMW9, then either 172/170


----------



## BuickGN

DAT said:


> matt?
> 
> I've tried Elate , Supremo, and and ADMW's... all great speakers, the Dyn's I've tried E650, 170, and 182 series... they were good too.
> 
> But man these 8's Mark has out is so much more detail ( paper cone ), impact, and lower end.
> 
> I run them 50hz and above but could go lower infact try and put 150w rms on any of the above speakers without a crossover and they will choke.


I haven't found the 182's limit running full range on 150w. In fact, for a short time I ran them full range as a 2-way. They seem to roll off around 3khz up top but go even higher. It has more cone area, a little more xmax, twice the xmech, I'm not sure how these new midbasses can get lower and louder. I wasn't aware a paper cone means more detail.


----------



## DAT

BuickGN said:


> I haven't found the 182's limit running full range on 150w. In fact, for a short time I ran them full range as a 2-way. They seem to roll off around 3khz up top but go even higher. It has more cone area, a little more xmax, twice the xmech, I'm not sure how these new midbasses can get lower and louder. I wasn't aware a paper cone means more detail.


xmax does mean anything, trust me. I know quite a few speaker builders, the engine of a speaker is the magnet... cone material is also important, as well as many other factors. 

Your a dedicated DYN guy and we can all respect . I was just stating the truth, and paper and poly are great, I just always liked the warm sound a paper cone makes a poly sounds more clinical ( which is not always a bad thing )

In a car environment you always want a big up front midbass, you have it with the 182's .. but try this unplug you sub amp rca's run your Dyn 182's from 20hz to what ever your midranges are running ( or up to your highpass you desire ) and see what they sound like with the volume up on the HU near clipping or where you would normally turn your volume knob. I was not saying these are the best new 8's just the best I have tested and I have tested many brands.... Dyn, Helix, Peerless, Morel...... again all of these speakers are great sounding .

Your 182's will choke, Mark's new 8's will not and you will be surprised and the control of them is incredible. You'll be wanting to turn the subs back on, with the Intimid8er's you would not have too.


----------



## Golden Ear

Buick, any experience with the 180 vs. the 182? Unfortunately the 182s aren't on the list


----------



## oca123

CDT FAN said:


> LOL. You drive a Bentley and you're worried about rates?


Hell yeah. If I never worried about the price of things, I would have stayed in the ghetto my whole life!
Like, why would I buy my powerade from the regular grocery store, when I can get it for half the price half a mile down the road at the 99c store? There's a reason why every time I go to the 99c store, there are exotic cars in the parking lot. Last time, there was a RR Ghost and an SL63.


----------



## oca123

Golden Ear said:


> Those look sweet. My dilemma is I have store credit with Woofers etc and have to choose between the Dynaudio 170, 172, 180, Morel ADMW9, and JL ZR800.


I had the ADMW9s in a BMW under the seats. I was disappointeded with them. Also, they had noisy motors. They were pretty much IB as the underseat enclosures in BMWs are open to the sideskirts, and the sideskirts are not completely sealed. Maybe it was just my install though, as there was maybe 7.5mm between the bottom of the enclosure and the vent


----------



## CDT FAN

oca123 said:


> Hell yeah. If I never worried about the price of things, I would have stayed in the ghetto my whole life!
> Like, why would I buy my powerade from the regular grocery store, when I can get it for half the price half a mile down the road at the 99c store? There's a reason why every time I go to the 99c store, there are exotic cars in the parking lot. Last time, there was a RR Ghost and an SL63.



LOL. I understand. 

BTW, I didn't mean to be be insulting. It was just being funny.


----------



## oca123

lol, i dont think anyone has ever offended me

EDIT: I take that back. 2girls1cup is the only thing that ever offended me.


----------



## CDT FAN

oca123 said:


> lol, i dont think anyone has ever offended me
> 
> EDIT: I take that back. 2girls1cup is the only thing that ever offended me.


Ok, then here it goes. 2 girls and a cup walk into a bar....


----------



## BuickGN

DAT said:


> xmax does mean anything, trust me. I know quite a few speaker builders, the engine of a speaker is the magnet... cone material is also important, as well as many other factors.
> 
> Your a dedicated DYN guy and we can all respect . I was just stating the truth, and paper and poly are great, I just always liked the warm sound a paper cone makes a poly sounds more clinical ( which is not always a bad thing )
> 
> In a car environment you always want a big up front midbass, you have it with the 182's .. but try this unplug you sub amp rca's run your Dyn 182's from 20hz to what ever your midranges are running ( or up to your highpass you desire ) and see what they sound like with the volume up on the HU near clipping or where you would normally turn your volume knob. I was not saying these are the best new 8's just the best I have tested and I have tested many brands.... Dyn, Helix, Peerless, Morel...... again all of these speakers are great sounding .
> 
> Your 182's will choke, Mark's new 8's will not and you will be surprised and the control of them is incredible. You'll be wanting to turn the subs back on, with the Intimid8er's you would not have too.


I'm still not understanding where you're coming from. My midbasses have considerably more displacement, in fact twice the mechanical displacement and more xmax, how are they going to choke under your conditions. I have run them with no highpass and up to 2khz and also 3khz with just the tweeters. No subs or mids. In fact I have a thread around here somewhere. There were no issues with the 150w from my HD600/4 at full tilt and I would be satisfied most of the time with these and the 110s in a subless 2-way setup. Sub bass is just as good as your typical 10" trunk sub setup. They're now bridged for 300w and while I haven't run them full range at 300w yet I've run them with a 40hz highpass and no issues. 

I would think displacement is king when talking about running with no highpass. I'm sure that 8" is great but I don't think it would win in this particular contest.


----------



## Brute71

Running 8" Scanspeak discovery drivers in the rear doors:










And 6.5" Scanspeak discovery drivers in the front:


----------



## oca123

Brute71 said:


> Running 8" Scanspeak discovery drivers in the rear doors:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And 6.5" Scanspeak discovery drivers in the front:


What kind of vehicle?


----------



## Brute71

MK4 Jetta, going to be running a 4 way setup. Love being able to feel the music in my chest at reasonable volume levels lol.


----------



## oca123

4-way as in tweeters mids midbass and subs in trunk, or 4-way front?


----------



## Brute71

Not technically a 4 way "front" since the midbasses reside behind you (essentially at your butt), but there will be tweets, 4" midrange (1000hz to tweets), 6.5" midrange (250hz to midrange), 8" midbass (60hz to 250hz), and subwoofer (60hz and below).

Just kinda experimenting with ITD and IID with the drivers and to allow flexibility of drivers. This is my first install based entirely around SQ and want to experiment a bit and fine tune from there.


----------



## oca123

I hear you. I have two sets of mids in my install... kicks 250-10000hz and pillars 250->22,000.... plus tweeters 10k+ in pillars as well. The pillar mids are not playing as loud as the kick mids, but I can turn them up if I want to get real loud. They seem to help with raising the soundstage. I originally had them in there to compare them w/ mids in kicks, but ended up keeping both and putting a switch to turn them on/off.


----------



## CDT FAN

oca123 said:


> I hear you. I have two sets of mids in my install... kicks 250-10000hz and pillars 250->22,000.... plus tweeters 10k+ in pillars as well. The pillar mids are not playing as loud as the kick mids, but I can turn them up if I want to get real loud. They seem to help with raising the soundstage. I originally had them in there to compare them w/ mids in kicks, but ended up keeping both and putting a switch to turn them on/off.


Do you have the comb filtering effects that people talk about? I was wondering how it would affect the sound to have a tweeter in th kick panel and one in the sail panel.


----------



## oca123

CDT FAN said:


> Do you have the comb filtering effects that people talk about? I was wondering how it would affect the sound to have a tweeter in th kick panel and one in the sail panel.


I haven't spent much time listening to it yet, so I can't say... and the aiming is still a work in progress. I haven't really noticed anything obvious, though. I will take measurements at some point, if I notice comb filtering, I will post here or PM you. Could be a few weeks though.


----------



## bgalaxy

I did DC M1 8's in my doors. Crossed from 63- 250 Works out great.










Did some RF p2 8's for a buddy in a tahoe. Worked out real nice too


----------



## Avaric3

have jbl gto804s on the way to go in my front doors. gonna need to make door pods tho cuz the doors of my 98 camaro can only fit a 3.5" deep and 6.75" diameter speaker. ill bring pics in here when all is said and done!


----------



## Pitmaster

bgalaxy said:


> I did DC M1 8's in my doors. Crossed from 63- 250 Works out great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did some RF p2 8's for a buddy in a tahoe. Worked out real nice too


Good stuff!

How do the RFs sound? I've only used thier subs.


----------



## pickup1

Here's mine


----------



## Fricasseekid

I'm about to go with HAT L8s in my Accord. 

I'm currently running the Massive RK6 in my truck though. 
http://tapatalk.com/mu/446ce32f-e48a-cb07.jpg


----------



## Golden Ear

That looks exactly like the door card of my Tahoe, same color too. That's a great idea ditching the metal grate and doing a pod. I see you have the 2 drivers in pretty much the stock locations. Did you do it just to fit a larger mid or does it change the imaging also?


----------



## Fricasseekid

I just put the tweeter down low to attenuate them. Those Massive tweets are kinda bright. I don't even have TA and active processing in my truck. 
When I redo it the tweeters will be moved up and I'll go with something that sounds smooth.


----------



## BuickGN

pickup1 said:


> Here's mine


I thought those were the Dyn 182 at first but the VC is too small. Are those from a Volvo or VW?


----------



## Randyman...

pickup1 said:


> Here's mine


Nice! I'm debating modding my factory grilles, and might incorporate the Elate 9" grilles. Dunno yet, but your install inspires me to get rid of my factory grilles...


----------



## Golden Ear

Fricasseekid said:


> I just put the tweeter down low to attenuate them. Those Massive tweets are kinda bright. I don't even have TA and active processing in my truck.
> When I redo it the tweeters will be moved up and I'll go with something that sounds smooth.


I have some Rainbow tweeters for sale if youre interested. They sound smooth


----------



## Fricasseekid

Golden Ear said:


> I have some Rainbow tweeters for sale if youre interested. They sound smooth


Appreciate it, but I'm not doing anything to my truck for a while. I'm concentrating on a simple SQ build for my daily driver.


----------



## Golden Ear

No worries.

I just ordered a set of the Melodic Acoustic Intimid8rs for my truck. I'll report back here once I get them installed. Very excited.


----------



## Fricasseekid

What are these melodic acoustic intimid8ers everyone speaks of? 

I know Audible Physics is doing a presale on their new 8" and it's called the intimid8er as well.


----------



## pickup1

Volvo and they rock...I have md 102/142 mids and highs too now.whole front stage cost a measly 300 bucks shipped.


----------



## MUGWUMP

Fricasseekid said:


> What are these melodic acoustic intimid8ers everyone speaks of?
> 
> I know Audible Physics is doing a presale on their new 8" and it's called the intimid8er as well.



I ordered a pair(Melodic Acoustic-after looking...same guy) in an impulse purchase. I'm wondering what to mate them with. I'm planning on a 3-way. I've got a pair of Focal 165vb and a pair of Hertz 165 HSK sitting here. I'm thinking I can play the intimid8ters from 60-250 and have the hertz 165hsk take over passive from 250 up. Should work as long as I can get the 6.5"s to fit in the factory location.

Anyone see a problem here other than me throwing way too much $$ at my stereo?


----------



## Golden Ear

Fricasseekid said:


> What are these melodic acoustic intimid8ers everyone speaks of?
> 
> I know Audible Physics is doing a presale on their new 8" and it's called the intimid8er as well.


Same thing, I guess. If you go to melodic-acoustic.com you can buy the AP drivers and the Intimid8r but the Intimid8r is called 'Melodic Acoustic Intimid8r'. I'm not sure why, but maybe someone else on this thread does.


----------



## Fricasseekid

Well the lowish Xmax is what steered me away from them.


----------



## Golden Ear

MUGWUMP said:


> I ordered a pair(Melodic Acoustic-after looking...same guy) in an impulse purchase. I'm wondering what to mate them with. I'm planning on a 3-way. I've got a pair of Focal 165vb and a pair of Hertz 165 HSK sitting here. I'm thinking I can play the intimid8ters from 60-250 and have the hertz 165hsk take over passive from 250 up. Should work as long as I can get the 6.5"s to fit in the factory location.
> 
> Anyone see a problem here other than me throwing way too much $$ at my stereo?


You may want to go with a smaller midrange driver than a 6.5". It will work, of course, but if you look at most 3 ways the midrange is 3-4" and they play up into the 5-6khz range. This is so that your tweeter doesn't have to play down to the point of where your 6.5" starts beaming (around 2.6khz). You get a much better sound from a 3-way with a 3-4" midrange. But, if you've "thrown too much money away" already then try what you're planning, it should sound fine.


----------



## Pitmaster

Golden Ear said:


> Same thing, I guess. If you go to melodic-acoustic.com you can buy the AP drivers and the Intimid8r but the Intimid8r is called 'Melodic Acoustic Intimid8r'. I'm not sure why, but maybe someone else on this thread does.


This may explain it...


True to form the New Year brings with it many great things. First you may ask who and/or what is Melodic Acoustic? Well, Melodic Acoustic is my new company name. We are the imports of Audible Physics, H-Audio and Sinfoni to the U.S. You will see a few drivers under the Melodic Acoustic brand, and yes, Audible Physics is still the main brand name!!!


----------



## DAT

Fricasseekid said:


> Well the lowish Xmax is what steered me away from them.


Man , don't let that fool ya, these play lower and more detailed than 90% of the 8" woofers on the market. 

during testing, a pair was tested at different high pass freqs, finally after going from 300hz ( test only ) to 60 hz then down to 45hz with a new Zapco Studio 150w per channel amp on them run 34/35 on the volume knob..

these sound detailed up to 2.5K

we tested them from no high pass to 300hz to see what they would or would not do ... they played hard for 40+ minutes no issues and playing very controlled., *try that with the other high compeition and no go they start to make loud funny noises.*



Golden Ear said:


> You may want to go with a smaller midrange driver than a 6.5". It will work, of course, but if you look at most 3 ways the midrange is 3-4" and they play up into the 5-6khz range. This is so that your tweeter doesn't have to play down to the point of where your 6.5" starts beaming (around 2.6khz). You get a much better sound from a 3-way with a 3-4" midrange. But, if you've "thrown too much money away" already then try what you're planning, it should sound fine.





Pitmaster said:


> This may explain it...
> 
> Just a branch off Mark's other lineups... like Brax and then helix being baby brother.
> 
> 
> True to form the New Year brings with it many great things. First you may ask who and/or what is Melodic Acoustic? Well, Melodic Acoustic is my new company name. We are the imports of Audible Physics, H-Audio and Sinfoni to the U.S. You will see a few drivers under the Melodic Acoustic brand, and yes, Audible Physics is still the main brand name!!!



Correct...


----------



## Fricasseekid

DAT said:


> Man , don't let that fool ya, these play lower and more detailed than 90% of the 8" woofers on the market.
> 
> during testing, a pair was tested at different high pass freqs, finally after going from 300hz ( test only ) to 60 hz then down to 45hz with a new Zapco Studio 150w per channel amp on them run 34/35 on the volume knob..
> 
> these sound detailed up to 2.5K
> 
> we tested them from no high pass to 300hz to see what they would or would not do ... they played hard for 40+ minutes no issues and playing very controlled., *try that with the other high compeition and no go they start to make loud funny noises.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct...


Thank you for the response but I just pulled the trigger on a pair of HAT L8s. I'm sure I won't be disappointed. 

Besides, granted I have a lot left to learn...
But I just don't get it. A speakers job is to move air, so how can a speaker with less displacement possibly get louder? Sure it can be more detailed or more efficient, or lower inductance can improve upper frequency response. But when it comes to the low end of response displacement is king right? Especially under fs no?


----------



## DAT

Oh you should have bought anything but HAT. The real name is Hyped Audio Triple-priced. Well that's what I hear from previous hat members 

But seriously xmax is not real that important - a woofer in a great environment barely moves .

Let us know how they work out


----------



## DAT

No problem - full blown no high pass. You could feel the bass 10 foot behind car. - subs were turned off. Just 3 way up Front using the Intimid8ers. 


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy9dVK3zKYw&sns=em


----------



## Fricasseekid

DAT said:


> An you should have bought anything but HAT. The real name is Hyped Audio Triple-priced.
> 
> But seriously xmax is not real that important - a woofer in a great environment barely moves .
> 
> Let us know how they work out


Ouch! From everything I've read audible physics is just as much of a boutique nut hugger loved brand as HAT. If this was a attempt at brand bashing I may have just lost some respect for you, especially being that your a vendor. 

I've been running the Massive RK6s for a while now. I have run the comp set in my doors on 150 watts and most recently 500 watts and I'm running just the RK6 woofers mounted in the doors of my accord running off my pioneer HU. All the above set ups sound harsh and don't dig very deep below midbass territory. I can achieve decent but not powerful midbass with them at moderate volumes only but when I turn it up I have to cut the sub 100hz region or the mid frequencies sound like ****. 

I had my mind made up on the Peerless SLS but decided I wanted to go with a 4 ohm speaker and the L8s popped up in the classifieds. If I made a mistake I won't be bashful in admitting so but I'm looking forward to hearing them after all the great things I've read. 

Would you like to explain why a lower Xmax speaker can play louder and sound better? Or will you continue to bash a competitors product?


----------



## DAT

No just having fun .  enjoy the speakers. 

If you lived closer I'd help you get everything locked in. Even let you test other brand 8's with the L8's


----------



## Fricasseekid

DAT said:


> No just having fun .  enjoy the speakers.
> 
> If you lived closer I'd help you get everything locked in. Even let you test other brand 8's with the L8's


Thanks. 
Sorry if my reply seemed a bit curt. This will be my first full active set up and I'm doing lots of reading and buying what I can afford. It kinda takes the fun out of it when you feel like someone is raining on your parade. 

I'm sure ill go through an assortment of drivers like many others do. It's a process...


----------



## DAT

No problem. I come off harsh also sometimes 

Check out this video. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy9dVK3zKYw&sns=em


If you need anything let me know - I will try to help best I can.


----------



## Pitmaster

DAT said:


> Oh you should have bought anything but HAT. The real name is Hyped Audio Triple-priced. Well that's what I hear from previous hat members
> 
> But seriously xmax is not real that important - a woofer in a great environment barely moves .
> 
> Let us know how they work out


Kinda surprised at this post...

I don't recall Scott bashing any other vendors brands here?

Was actually going to try a pair of these 8's to compair them to my L8SE's...

You seem to be very excited about these new mids, and it is well deserved I'm sure, and Mark's rep precedes him, but let the speakers speak for themselves.



Props to Fricasseekid; well said.


----------



## DAT

Not bashing , and not a vendor on here. 

I was just joking around. 

Pickup1 & Randyman - love your new speakers.


----------



## Golden Ear

Fricasseekid said:


> I had my mind made up on the Peerless SLS but decided I wanted to go with a 4 ohm speaker and the L8s popped up in the classifieds. If I made a mistake I won't be bashful in admitting so but I'm looking forward to hearing them after all the great things I've read.


Good call finding a pair in the classifieds. As many people on here will tell you, it's more about the install and tune than the driver itself. Nothing wrong with boutique brands, especially if you get them for a great price. Bonus: they're already broken in  Good luck with the install and I'm sure they'll work great for you. I've not heard anything bad about AP/MA drivers and that's why I decided to go with them.


----------



## Fricasseekid

Thanks, I'm pretty excited about it.

I'm gonna buy some AE IB15s soon but I think I'm gonna run the L8s for a while with no sub just familiarize myself with their capabilities.


----------



## Fricasseekid

DAT said:


> Not bashing , and not a vendor on here.
> 
> I was just joking around.
> 
> Pickup1 & Randyman - love your new speakers.


Weren't you the go to man for all the Massive stuff about a year or two ago?


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## Pitmaster

Fricasseekid said:


> Thanks, I'm pretty excited about it.
> 
> I'm gonna buy some AE IB15s soon but I think I'm gonna run the L8s for a while with no sub just familiarize myself with their capabilities.



Order the IB's now and you might just get by the time you are ready for them,
unfortunately he needs payment in full up front .
I have 2 AE SBP15's as John was no longer making the IB line a couple of years ago, and they are still yet to be installed. 
I am also running my L8SE's without a sub and they still impress me even now, but install is ever so crucial with midbass.
Let us know how they sound.


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## Fricasseekid

The wait on the IBs is about two weeks right now. I'll probably order them in a week or two.


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## Pitmaster

Don't know if John has been able to stock some of his drivers, but 2 weeks sounds really optimistic.
I ckecked the EA forum and it seems he still trying to fill the group buy order from October 2011 
My 4 week wait time turned into 9 mos, another DIYMA member wiated 8 mos!
I hope things have improved for John as he builds some of the best speakers, period, built to order by hand in the good 'ol U.S.A. Worth the wait, and at a great price! 
I was lucky enough to score a famed AE AV12 sub from the DIYMA classifieds.
What a beast and sounds great!


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## Melodic Acoustic

It seems I missed a bit here. 

Brand bashing is not something we prompt at all. But if you knew Dave, you would no he is just being Dave and not bashing and one nor any brand.

But he speech the truth about it does not take a massive amount of Xmax to reproduce great mid-bass is not needed. As the ole saying goes, "There is more then one way to skin a cat"

Honestly sound the best sound and impactful (not a word, but you know what I mean  ) the transducers barely move at all. If you have notice know of our mid/bass transducers have massive amount of Xmax, but have never been weak on mid-bass and can do neck and neck with the best of them. Why?

more cone area at the give size. 

next higher then average sensitivity for car audio base transducer. Some my seem as high, but then you notice they are rate at 2.83v/1m, not 1w/1m

We choose to design in the middle of the road of car audio and pro audio. Large motor, mid/high sensitivity, Low/Mid xmax and a great suspension. What you get is a car audio driver that is very fast and accurate and very dynamic. There are few more things that go into the design, but I guess the point is Xmax is not the only spec that makes a great mid-bass. 

The video Dave posted is just proof that because the xmax is consider on the low, does not mean it does not and can not reproduce mid-bass or sub-bass with great impact. It does it and does at as good and better then many more costly drivers.


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## subwoofery

DAT said:


> Not bashing , and not a vendor on here.
> 
> I was just joking around.
> 
> Pickup1 & Randyman - love your new speakers.


You've been joking in a lot of HAT threads then  

Really wondering what happened between you and HAT - Did ask once but never got a reply...

Kelvin


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## DAT

Nothing Scott is good guy. I just like to crack jokes.

Seems quite a few guys getting upset. Should I stop ? Nah. It's just fun.


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## MUGWUMP

Golden Ear said:


> You may want to go with a smaller midrange driver than a 6.5". It will work, of course, but if you look at most 3 ways the midrange is 3-4" and they play up into the 5-6khz range. This is so that your tweeter doesn't have to play down to the point of where your 6.5" starts beaming (around 2.6khz). You get a much better sound from a 3-way with a 3-4" midrange. But, if you've "thrown too much money away" already then try what you're planning, it should sound fine.


Never said TOO much $$. 

I was under the impression that if they play down to 60 hz fine, that only playing them down to 250 or so would be more efficient, but I only know enough to make me dangerous. I haven't even seen if I can fit the 6.5 with the tweet in the stock location without cutting the door.

Is it detrimental to the SQ or is it more of a using way more driver than is needed?

I guess I'm in for another complete rebuild. 

If you guys could buy any 3-4" midrange and tweeter to compliment the intimid8ters what would they be?


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## BuickGN

I would do a 6.5" midrange if I could get them on axis.


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## Golden Ear

MUGWUMP said:


> If you guys could buy any 3-4" midrange and tweeter to compliment the intimid8ters what would they be?


If I could buy ANY mid and tweet I'd go with the Dynaudio 110 and 430 like what's in BuickGN's sig. Unfortunately, that's in the $2500-$3000 neighborhood, new. I'm going with the Audible Physics NZ3-A/AT mounted in the corner of my dash slightly off axis. I've read lots of great things about them and they don't require a tweeter, just a small AAT next to the 3.5" that comes with it.

One tweeter that I own that I have to say is the best sounding tweeter I've heard is the Rainbow CAL26 Profi tweeter. It isn't too harsh or too bright, it can play loud and still sound good.


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## Vital

How the hell are you guys deadening your doors with those subs in them???
I only have regular set up: one 6.75'' speaker in my doors and it took forever and ****loads of deadening material from tiles to closed cell on innner and outer doors and plastic panel to finally reduce rattles to mimimum. Went even as far as drilling bolts thru my door panels to "squeeze" it together. 

How the hell don't your doors rattle to the point of killing any pleasure you might get from all that bass up front??


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## Pitmaster

Vital said:


> How the hell are you guys deadening your doors with those subs in them???
> I only have regular set up: one 6.75'' speaker in my doors and it took forever and ****loads of deadening material from tiles to closed cell on innner and outer doors and plastic panel to finally reduce rattles to mimimum. Went even as far as drilling bolts thru my door panels to "squeeze" it together.
> 
> How the hell don't your doors rattle to the point of killing any pleasure you might get from all that bass up front??





Post #65


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## DAT

one key is to isolate the speaker from the door panel..


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## Fricasseekid

DAT said:


> one key is to isolate the speaker from the door panel..


The panel or the door card? 

Cause if your actually talking about the metal door panel itself, this isn't really possible. It's cute how most apply some sort of material between the door's mounting surface and the baffle in an attempt to dampen vibrations. Then they use screws or bolts to mount the baffle and couple it with the door solidly.


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## Golden Ear

I "squeezed" these 7" Dayton rs180s in my doors
Looks terrible but they're temporary. I want ahead and ordered the Melodic Acoustic Intimid8ers. Can't wait for them to come in!


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## oca123

Get some lead sheets and a ton of neoprene glue. It will completely kill those door panels, guaranteed.


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## MUGWUMP

Got the intimid8rs in my mustang doors. I stacked two 3/4" birch ply rings for the basic ring. Other than the color being off after my second attempt at coloring them I think they're pretty sweet for my first go at making nice rings. I just need to finish my grills.


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## Golden Ear

Well? How do they sound???


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## MUGWUMP

I think they're nice, but I don't really have anything to compare them to. This is the most I've done as far as car audio goes. They're being run by an Alpine PDX-F4 bridged, so they're getting over 200 watts each. I band-passed them 60-200hz. Any higher and I would end up with a 8db valley wherever I low passed them. I'm guessing it has to do with how low they're mounted and the center console is causing some canceling. I'm no expert so I don't know specific terms describing speakers, but I'd say they're very quick and have plenty of punch. I know I have a lot more work to do with chasing down rattles. They give a nice punch for kickdrums, which is what I was looking for.

I'm sure the enclosure leaves a lot to be desired also. As soon as I can source new doorskins I plan on gutting the factory shaker 500 door enclosures and fabricating ones bolted directly to the door.


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## oca123

Golden Ear, I thought you ordered some?

I installed mine a while back, but I haven't really had the time to do the rest of the system. 

Maybe I should work on that today. I'll try to order some acrylic today and have it shipped to the machine shop so they can route my amp rack, so I can come back here and comment.


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## Golden Ear

oca123 said:


> Golden Ear, I thought you ordered some?
> 
> I installed mine a while back, but I haven't really had the time to do the rest of the system.
> 
> Maybe I should work on that today. I'll try to order some acrylic today and have it shipped to the machine shop so they can route my amp rack, so I can come back here and comment.


Yeah, I have a bnib set sitting in my garage. I'm afraid to mount them in my doors because of how beefy they are. Ideally, I'd like to have them in the kicks that way I can cross them around 40-50hz and not worry about resonances from the doors. 

Hurry up and finish your install so I can hear them! I'll be in so cal next week


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## E320Platinum

I was using Phoenix Gold Titanium Elite 9-5-1 a few years back.

Sounded great. SQ with balls.


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## TheScottishBear

Trying to put together a monster 3 way for my horns. Got a big part done today. Take a look at this monster. Eminence 12LTA. The door panel is from a previous install that had a full wrap. Hence the staple holes. I'll be replacing them in a couple weeks. 
The pod is quite heavy unloaded. I used tape and foil and made a mold using several layers of matte and cloth. Once that cured covered it with a generous layer of dynahair nearly getting carpal tunnel in the process. The baffle is 2 1/2" thick. I wrapped it laying up a few more layers of matte and resin and a couple coats of filler to smooth it out. I used about 2.2 lbs of NHMC around the baffle to kill any resonance. In between the pod and the door panel is strips of neoprene used as a decoupling layer and is bolted together using panhead screws, washers, and nuts. The door panel itself has 3 layers of resin and chop matte on the backside. The door itself has 2 layers of lightweight vinyl deadener and exp. foam behind the braces with a 1 1/4" foam glued to the bottom of the door skin with a built in vinyl decoupling layer. I wrote this out since Vital asked what measures we are taking to remove resonance and rattles and this is what I have done so far. 
I am still an amateur at all this stuff but I think I have a pretty good handle on it. This is the "midrange" in a giga 3 way i am building. Throwing convention right out the frelling window. Trying to build something truly diabolical. Not an sq machine just a monster with frightening dynamics and volume. Mwa hahahaaa



Here is a pic of the old door panel for reference. 10" Goldwood on 240 watts. It was posted six pages back or so.


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## Nothingface5384

how would you do this to a vintage 60s/70s car and look good since its just flat vinyl w/ cardboard backing
ive always hated how speakers looked in my door as onlything that patrudes is the speaker grille and doorhandle..nothing transistions or blends like how new doors are


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## abusiveDAD

anymore hardcore techniques to tame rattles like on page 3


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## MUGWUMP

Nothingface5384 said:


> how would you do this to a vintage 60s/70s car and look good since its just flat vinyl w/ cardboard backing
> ive always hated how speakers looked in my door as onlything that patrudes is the speaker grille and doorhandle..nothing transistions or blends like how new doors are


Don't touch the doors. Do kick panels.


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## HiloDB1

Finishing up the adapter/rings for my Intimid8r's. Have to make a couple tweaks to the door panels to fit them but overall when the doors are back together it will all look factory. Waiting on my deadener to get here so I can finish off the doors.


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## deeppinkdiver

^^ im curious what your results are from these in the doors!!!


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## Bluenote

I am looking for some ideas on how I could fabricate this door panel and retain a 'close to stock' appearance. I have Morel MW9's that will be installed IB in a well sealed and deadened door. Just want to create space for the sound to come through. I foresee that I would need to remove existing Grill and bottom pocket area. Open to suggestions...


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