# Sub enclosure terminal technique question.



## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

In speaking with my installer about my build I asked him about sub enclosure terminals. I was looking at utilizing the terminal post studs instead of the cutout terminal block due to sealing in the enclosure. He stated that they don't use either due to sub terminals tending to melt, no matter what the type. They wire directly from the sub to the amp. Question is, is this correct? What is the process of doing it like he suggested? Just drill a hole close to the O.D. of the wire and silicone? Whats your experience?

Thanks


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

I tend to use two holes drilled like a double barrelled shotgun looking hole, then superglue (ca glue) the cable into the hole, and before the superglue has gone off fold the cable over and use an opened up p clip as a cable clamp and superglue over the bent over cable also, makes a very good seal and sticks to wood exceedingly well!

I have never liked any kind of terminal block... why add joins when subs generally have quick release terminals, and if I want to make the box removable and it’s for under 5kw I use an xt90 if required, or two for dual voice coil subs


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> In speaking with my installer about my build I asked him about sub enclosure terminals. I was looking at utilizing the terminal post studs instead of the cutout terminal block due to sealing in the enclosure. He stated that they don't use either due to sub terminals tending to melt, no matter what the type. They wire directly from the sub to the amp. Question is, is this correct? What is the process of doing it like he suggested? Just drill a hole close to the O.D. of the wire and silicone? Whats your experience?
> 
> Thanks


Thats how i do it most of the time, or i use these when i have them.









Amazon.com: Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin Nickel : Electronics


Amazon.com: Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin Nickel : Electronics



www.amazon.com


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## GoldRiver (Mar 16, 2020)

Ive drilled holes and used silicon. On my latest enclosure I simply fed the wires out of the port.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

There are also these:




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Markertek - Search Results for Neutrik-Speakon







audio-video-supply.markertek.com




(Up to 30A RMS)


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> There are also these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice concept but my sub has the potential to draw 50 amps


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

miniSQ said:


> Thats how i do it most of the time, or i use these when i have them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you solder the inside terminals when using these? Those are the posts I was describing but he says they would potentially melt as well.


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

dumdum said:


> I tend to use two holes drilled like a double barrelled shotgun looking hole, then superglue (ca glue) the cable into the hole, and before the superglue has gone off fold the cable over and use an opened up p clip as a cable clamp and superglue over the bent over cable also, makes a very good seal and sticks to wood exceedingly well!
> 
> I have never liked any kind of terminal block... why add joins when subs generally have quick release terminals, and if I want to make the box removable and it’s for under 5kw I use an xt90 if required, or two for dual voice coil subs


I am using the twisted pair speaker wire with the clear and thick outer jacket. Never thought about CA glue as I didn’t know if it would seal to wood very well. Thanks for that. I may drill a slightly oversized hole and CA glue the outer jacket to the hole penetration then silicone the surfaces on both sides. Thoughts?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Do you solder the inside terminals when using these? Those are the posts I was describing but he says they would potentially melt as well.


I don't solder to the binding post. I solder a ring onto the wire and then use the nuts and lock washers to secure them inside. There is ZERO chance of you melting solder with a reasonable sub system. You will melt the wire first and then the car, and THEN the solder. Make your "guy" prove it to you by melting solder with power from an amp LOL.


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Nice concept but my sub has the potential to draw 50 amps


Total or each coil?


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> Total or each coil?


Total. Single coil, 600 watts RMS


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

miniSQ said:


> I don't solder to the binding post. I solder a ring onto the wire and then use the nuts and lock washers to secure them inside. There is ZERO chance of you melting solder with a reasonable sub system. You will melt the wire first and then the car, and THEN the solder. Make your "guy" prove it to you by melting solder with power from an amp LOL.


This was my first choice as it seems the best way to assure a good solid seal. He didn’t say it in reference to soldered connections. Just for enclosure terminals in general. I was just wondering whether people soldered them or like you said, just use ring terminals.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I always use the two below... Drill an undersized hole and screw them in with E6000. I hate those plastic terminal cups... I can't imagine building a solid, airtight box and then drilling a big hole and installing a big plastic thing.




























Home


Dayton Audio BPA-38NI HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair NickelThese heavy-duty binding posts were designed with the audiophile in mind. The high-quality plating process eliminates the possibility of corrosion to maintain the highest possible signal transfer and resist harsh environmental...




www.parts-express.com
























Home


Parts Express Dual-Ended Satin Nickel Binding Post Speaker Terminal PairFinally a solution for getting wires in and out of cabinet sub-enclosures! These satin nickel dual-ended push terminals will eliminate the need for messy caulking or having to solder inside a cabinet. Simply drill two 5/32"...




www.parts-express.com


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## Clvol1255 (Aug 6, 2020)

I decided to go with some of these bigger ones over the part express I originally bought... you can get them in copper, gold or rhodium. These tighten with a wrench and socket very snug.. I used silicone and wood glue around them from inside after inserting as well















I also bought these neutrik speakon that are rated for up to 50A and 40A rms each bc I had experience with them in my boat before


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Total. Single coil, 600 watts RMS


I am not confident in your math.

How much current does a 600W RMS sub draw?
And is it 1, 2 = 4 or 8 ohm subwoofer?


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> I am not confident in your math.
> 
> How much current does a 600W RMS sub draw?
> And is it 1, 2 = 4 or 8 ohm subwoofer?


Lets see. I Googled it quickly and didn't pay attention to the formula, just the answer since i was at work.
Amps= Watts / Volts
600 watts / 12 volts = 50 amps

Its a 4 ohm single voice coil


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Clvol1255 said:


> I decided to go with some of these bigger ones over the part express I originally bought... you can get them in copper, gold or rhodium. These tighten with a wrench and socket very snug.. I used silicone and wood glue around them from inside after inserting as well
> View attachment 291045
> View attachment 291046
> 
> I also bought these neutrik speakon that are rated for up to 50A and 40A rms each bc I had experience with them in my boat before


Where did you find those large posts, Chris? I would like to look at those.

Thanks!


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> I always use the two below... Drill an undersized hole and screw them in with E6000. I hate those plastic terminal cups... I can't imagine building a solid, airtight box and then drilling a big hole and installing a big plastic thing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Both are good ones. I have been admiring your work from afar, David. You make some nice enclosures, my brother. Thanks for sharing!


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Lets see. I Googled it quickly and didn't pay attention to the formula, just the answer since i was at work.
> Amps= Watts / Volts
> 600 watts / 12 volts = 50 amps
> 
> Its a 4 ohm single voice coil


Oh boy...  ^that^ explains my bewilderment.

Here is one way to work through it with a 4 ohm sub, as opposed to a 12V sub.
W = V*I =V*V/R

600W = V*V/R
(Multiply both sides by R)
600W * 4 ohms = V*V
V = SQRT(2400) or ~50v
(So 50V would be the rail voltage)

Since V = IR, and V=50 and R=4, then we solve for I (Current)
Divide both side by R to arrive at V/R = I
And 50v/4-ohms = ~12.5 Amperes.

So bascially use whatever you want, and if the wires are really long one probably would need 13ga.




__





Voltage Drop Calculator


This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.




www.calculator.net




at based upon 99% if the power getting to the sub with a 10' (3m) amp to sub cane run.
(You probably have less distance, so a 12-14ga would work.)


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> Oh boy...  ^that^ explains my bewilderment.
> 
> Here is one way to work through it with a 4 ohm sub, as opposed to a 12V sub.
> W = V*I =V*V/R
> ...


Thanks for the clarification and explanation, Holmz. Guess I was a little off?😅


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Thanks for the clarification and explanation, Holmz. Guess I was a little off?😅


If one is removing the sub then the Neutrik makes it easy, but it costs ~10-15 to go that route.
At least it make sense to me as there are not 2 bare connectors hanging next to each other, just a plug that keeps them from shorting.

But there are many ways to skin a cat.


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> If one is removing the sub then the Neutrik makes it easy, but it costs ~10-15 to go that route.
> At least it make sense to me as there are not 2 bare connectors hanging next to each other, just a plug that keeps them from shorting.
> 
> But there are many ways to skin a cat.


Thats a good point. So I see where I used the system voltage (12V) instead of the rail voltage. So what is rail voltage? Max voltage rating of the sub via watts RMS? I have never heard the term. Thanks again.


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## Clvol1255 (Aug 6, 2020)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Where did you find those large posts, Chris? I would like to look at those.
> 
> Thanks!


They’re Viborg and I got them off Amazon. I got rhodium plated ones but the gold and copper are cheaper by a few bucks. They are nice looking and very well built compared to the others I bought initially off parts express. The ones I got felt cheap. It may not make much of a difference but the Viborg give about 2.5 times the connection surface The neutrik connectors are nice too but I preferred the Viborg personally. They seal very well too


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## Clvol1255 (Aug 6, 2020)

Well damn bro they’re sold out on Amazon. They do have them on a couple more sites though I noticed when I was shopping for them. eBay has a few more of them for same price I paid $37


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Eatmore Bacon said:


> Thats a good point. So I see where I used the system voltage (12V) instead of the rail voltage. So what is rail voltage? Max voltage rating of the sub via watts RMS? I have never heard the term. Thanks again.


well.. how does am amplifier work?
If the speakers are 4 ohms, and then only way to dove power though them it to vary the voltage that they get... so that the current varies.

A bigger, more powerful amplifier, has higher voltage. And the power supply of an amplifier changes the 12V input voltage to some other (higher) voltage.









Rail to Rail Voltage Meaning???


I overheard someone speak of rail to rail voltage but I do not understand what that means. I did a search on the internet but could not come up with...




www.electronicspoint.com


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## Eatmore Bacon (Dec 17, 2020)

Holmz said:


> well.. how does am amplifier work?
> If the speakers are 4 ohms, and then only way to dove power though them it to vary the voltage that they get... so that the current varies.
> 
> A bigger, more powerful amplifier, has higher voltage. And the power supply of an amplifier changes the 12V input voltage to some other (higher) voltage.
> ...


Makes sense. I keep forgetting that voltage isn't constant in audio across all components. My trained way of thinking (voltage is constant and current varies i.e. electric motors) gets in the way from time to time.


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