# Alpine Type R recone *Build Log*



## MyJeepGoesBoom (Jun 6, 2011)

Well I decided to give myself a project and recone a blown Type R from a few setups ago. This is how it turned out, keep in mind that this is my first real build log. 

**These are not exact directions. Specific detailed instructions come with the kit, this is just to help you see the process**

Didn't think to start taking pictures until it was tore down, but the teardown is extremely simple. Use a heat gun to warm the edge of the surround. Alpine used crappy glue so it's not too bad. Once it's separated, fold the surround up and use a Phillips screwdriver to take out the spider retainer ring. The rest should just lift out. 

Tore down:












I decided that I wanted it to look a little different than stock so I masked it up and gave it a few good coats of black enamel:





































Now to the good part...

Springfield Speaker makes two types of kits.. A recone kit, and recoil kit. I opted for the recone kit because it includes the cone with surround attached. It takes a lot of lovin to get your original cone torn down and not have it look crappy. 










All adhesives, two adhesive brushes, adhesive activator spray, coil shims, 2 feet of leadwire and heatshrink, two spiders (top and bottom), cone with surround, and 2" 1600w RMS voice coil. Kit was $60 w/ free shipping. If your surround and cone are in good shape, you can opt for the recoil kit (everything minus the cone) for about $55. It depends on which generation it is.

They do have options for all 3 generations of the Type R, and also different impedances as well. This is a 2nd Gen 12" 4 ohm DVC. They did have a 2ohm option as well.

http://www.springfieldspeakerrepair.com

Step 1 on the instructions is to do a "dry run" to make sure everything fits and so you've got an idea of what it should look like.

The instructions also explain how to set the coil height. Do this during the dry run so that your coil sticks up out of the cone by 1/8th to 1/4 inch.

Set the coil in the gap and shim inside so it's centered. 



















Make sure to clean up the edges really well on the spider ring, I had to use a razor blade and a Dremel. Run a bead of the black adhesive around the bottom lip of the ring. Set the spider in so the inside lip faces up, and press the edges down to bond. Immediately after, put the spider ring in and screw it down.

***MAKE SURE TO PUT THE TERMINAL PIECE BACK ON IF YOU REMOVED IT. YOU CANT GET IT BACK ON WITHOUT TAKING YHE WHOLE RING OUT AGAIN***




























Making sure the coil is still at the correct height, put a bead of CA glue around where the coil meets the spider, and hit it with a few sprays of accelerator.

Go ahead and lay down a bead of black glue for the top spider and press it into place, keeping the inner lip facing up. DO NOT glue the spider to the coil yet.



















Now lay down a heavy bead of black glue for the surround. When you drop it in, the lip of the spider should come up through the cone, along with the spider about 1/8th to 1/4th inch.

Use spring clamps all the way around to bond the surround to the frame. 
I forgot pictures of this part but if you've ever fixed a woofer, you should know the concept.

Now that the surround and cone is in place, you will have 3 areas of contact to glue, the spider lip, the coil, and the cone. Get a heavy yet steady bead and hit it with accelerator.











At this point you want to poke two small holes in the cone, (there are already two there) for your leads. The instructions give you more detail last far as coil orientation and how to line up the leads. I just made sure where I put them would give me enough lead wire.

I can't stress it enough, TEST FIT TEST FIT TEST FIT. Do it before all gluing.

Once everything is in place, cut your lead wires and poke them through the cone. Wrap the leads and solder together. 










Once the solder is cooled, pull the leads all the way through, leaving about 1/8th inch sticking out. 

Press the coil leads flush to the cone and lay down a heavy bead on each lead and lead end. Don't skimp out here, once the cap is in place you won't be able to glue them back down without cutting the cap out. Hit it with accelerator.



















When you know those leads aren't going anywhere, go ahead and run a bead of CA glue Long the marked dustcap line on the cone. Set it in place, hit it with accelerator, and set some weight on it to hold it in place. I used a can of soda.



















I opted for a custom dustcap from Fi Car audio. I just love love love the logo and how it looks when it's playing. The included cap is black poly with no label. Can be put on domed or inverted.

Time to do the lead to terminal connection. Now the coil leads don't come marked by polarity, just in a pair. A good trick to find polarity is use a 9v batter and touch it to a pair of leads. If the cone moves up, then the lead on the positive of the 9v is the + lead for that coil. If it moves down, its the reverse. Most people know that simple trick.

Next unsolder the original leads from the terminal, use the appropriate heatshrink, and solder new leads on. I found it was easier to take the screws out and solder first. Make sure to save some heatshrink for near the terminals to keep from shorting. 










Once it's all connected and you snap the cover back on, its time for the BEST part.. 

Let it sit so all the glue can cure for 36 hours. LOL, yes, as the instructions say, 36 hours. Better to be safe than have the joints weaken and rip apart.

Very last step, mount it in a box of your choice.











The end product is an awesome speaker, freshly rebuilt, and IMO a step up from the Type R that it once was.

So to all you guys out there that have a blown Type R sitting around the garage.. Hit up Springfield Speaker and they will make sure you get everything you need. They also carry kits and parts for Rockford Fosgate and other name brands. 

http://www.springfieldspeakerrepair.com


Feel free to ask any questions! I will try to get a video up so you can see it action.


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