# Quickie Speaker Rings. Waterproof & dustless.



## The Tube Doctor (Nov 24, 2009)

I recently worked on a new BMW 135i. 
The Hybrid L3V2 wouldn't fit, due to clearance problems
with the phase plug and the OEM speaker grille. System 
had to be invisible. 

Fortunately, I still had a couple of sets of L3 on hand, and 
they were perfect for this application. 
Shown are the steps I took to transform some 8mm polyprop 
kitchen cutting boards into adapter rings. 
It was nice not to have sawdust flying around when I did these!

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

1_zps84eb16f1.jpg Photo by thetubedoctor | Photobucket

Pardon the links for the photos. For some reason, I can't get the images to stick to this post.

The cutting boards were rough cut with a jig-saw, then screwed and spaced onto the factory speaker with nuts and washers. Simple.
The router is table mounted, so you can keep two hands on the speaker & keep everything under control.

The speaker is used for the first ring's shape, then the next 3 are held on with double-stick foam tape. It peels off the polyprop easily , and the shear adhesion is more than enough to keep the pieces lined up while they're being shaped.

The speaker hole was made with the appropriate-sized hole saw.

All the mounting hardware is stainless. (304, I believe)

I get this really nice neoprene tape from the local air-con supply shop. It's supplied in rolls that are 2" wide, but it cuts beautifully into whatever thickness you need to make a gasket that fits between the adapter and the door, and the speaker gasket. Great adhesive on it too!

So, no need to haul sheets of ply or mdf from the lumber yard nor deal with the dust-storm that ensues when running the router.
8 mm polyprop is inexpensive, strong, easy to shape and requires no weatherproofing. I'll be using this method regularly from now on.

The only Homer Simpson moment I had, was making four rings the same size. (front/rear) The rear speakers use a different size frame! But now I've got a spare set, ready for the next Bimmer.
I think I'll remake a lot of my templates using this stuff. Wood templates get pretty fuzzy in Hong Kong humidity............


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

i like it !! might try it on my build .


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## jcpahman77 (Mar 5, 2013)




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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Im going to be trying this in my build. Is there any difference in sound?

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


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## Neil_J (Mar 2, 2011)

I did the same, but opted for UHMW (polyethylene iirc) which can be purchased right from Amazon.com or McMaster Carr for cheap. I'll never go back to mdf for speaker adapters again.


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## Neil_J (Mar 2, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> Im going to be trying this in my build. Is there any difference in sound?


yea, MDF sounds like crap after it rots out :F


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

HPDE is waaaay cheaper than UHMW, and I think you are paying for properties in UHMW that you don't need. This isn't a wear-resistant application. 
That's $47 for a 2'x4'x38" sheet of HDPE vs $147 for 2'x4'x3/8" UHMW. UHMW is awesome, I just don't see the cost choice in this spot. Unless you get scraps for free (food processing plant, anyone?), I would be using HDPE. 

High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Sheeting | U.S. Plastic Corp. 
UHMW Cut Sheet | U.S. Plastic Corp.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

This is an awesome idea! Especially for odd shaped factory speakers like the BMW's and the Subaru's.


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## The Tube Doctor (Nov 24, 2009)

First off, thanks JCPAHMAN77. 
I kept getting database error messages when I tried to get the pics to post.
Odd things happen from time to time online in HK & China.

The HDPE sounds really inert when you give it a tap test.
That is, hang it off a piece of string and try to ring it like a bell. 
MDF has a really specific tap tone. And nobody likes having to 
goop the rings to prevent water-rot. Takes time and cost $$$.

It's been a long time since I've made MDF rings. I've been madly in love 
with using high-grade marine ply for the past few years. 
My dust collection isn't up and running in my new place yet, so I thought
I'd give this a try. I know I'm not the first. Can't recall how long ago this subject has been discussed on this forum. I purchased my material at a little kitchen supply shop just down the street. My boards were not bulk material, but even as finished cutting boards they cost the equivalent of US$10 for 4.
(around 10"x12")

Honestly, I can't hear a difference between the poly and wood. I've done a similar set for 6x9 adapters in the doors of a Toyota Alphard van. Worked great there as well.

The only caveat is that prior to using the router, make your rough cut so that your router cut is less than the diameter of your router bit. 
For instance, if your router bit is 0.50" diameter, (like mine) trace your speaker outline onto the material being cut, and jigsaw cut to within less than0.50" , of the line. (sorry, 1/2") The HDPE is quite grabby if you try to hog too much off in one go.

Also might want to be wary of really dry environments. It's not a problem in Hong Kong, but I'd be willing to bet that anywhere you get lots of static, the chips that come of this stuff could get stuck everywhere!


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## powpow2pavement (Feb 22, 2012)

Good info and nice to see photo examples. Thanks for sharing.


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## jcpahman77 (Mar 5, 2013)

You took good photos and it seemed like a shame not to have them in the thread; besides it took maybe 5 minutes of my time to help someone else out, if I can't spare that what kind of an a-hole am I?

I don't know how Photobucket loads in HK, but here, to the right of the photo is a section with links, there is one labeled IMG code, if you click on that it will copy the code to your clipboard and then you only have to paste it into your thread.

Good looking spacers, makes me wish I had access to a router, I'm probably going to have to stick with MDF and cover it with something waterproof in the meantime.


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

jcpahman77 said:


> You took good photos and it seemed like a shame not to have them in the thread; besides it took maybe 5 minutes of my time to help someone else out, if I can't spare that what kind of an a-hole am I?
> 
> I don't know how Photobucket loads in HK, but here, to the right of the photo is a section with links, there is one labeled IMG code, if you click on that it will copy the code to your clipboard and then you only have to paste it into your thread.
> 
> Good looking spacers, makes me wish I had access to a router, I'm probably going to have to stick with MDF and cover it with something waterproof in the meantime.


You can machine HDPE with the exact same tools you use for MDF. Just keep your tool speed down to prevent melting, and everything else should be identical.


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

*JayinMI* uses king starboard, which can be ordered in single thick pieces, without having to layer them.

eBay My World - acesany


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Did somebody mention my name? Lol.

Yeah, I used it in my Genesis Coupe, and will use it again when I build the rings for the Rio. You can get it 1/4"-1.5". Holds screws pretty well even without the threaded inserts I used. It will never rot, is pretty dense and doesn't melt back together when you cut and router it.

You might be able to find it at a marine supply/boating supply store, also.

Jay


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## chad1376 (Dec 27, 2012)

Nice - I was planning to build rings this weekend, and this is a great idea. I actually used a cutting board to make a router circle jig. I don't know why I didn't think about making rings with the stuff.

FWIW, if you drill a hole in the wrong spot, which I'm prone to do, you can just melt some of the shavings, fill the hole, and re-drill.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

when i tried to cut mine out with the router the plastic melted instantly.. anyone else get the same problem?


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

As always, props to the Tube Doctor. Keep your eye on this guy! 

I have had great success using T-Nuts and a heat gun to set them into the plastic. I use a machine screw with a fender washer while blasting the heat I use my power drill to fully seat the T-Nut into the cutting board (ahem, baffle)


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## thomasluke (Jun 10, 2011)

SkizeR said:


> when i tried to cut mine out with the router the plastic melted instantly.. anyone else get the same problem?


Variable speed? Try a lower speed.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

thomasluke said:


> Variable speed? Try a lower speed.


unfortunately not :/


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## ou812 (Oct 25, 2008)

I did this years ago. Still have them in my Ex. You have to cut real slow with a vari speed saw.


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## bsa77 (Aug 12, 2013)

I'll pop the question here, since its sort of on the topic.(?)
Came across this pdf while surfing around.
They point out the importance of chamfering the backside of the baffles for best airflow.
This is something not many seem to do? Or have I just missed it?
Is this something to consider or is this more specific for just this speaker (Nordica 6.2) for some reason?


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

bsa77 said:


> I'll pop the question here, since its sort of on the topic.(?)
> Came across this pdf while surfing around.
> They point out the importance of chamfering the backside of the baffles for best airflow.
> This is something not many seem to do? Or have I just missed it?
> Is this something to consider or is this more specific for just this speaker (Nordica 6.2) for some reason?


For the record, I don't think it's on-topic, but I am often more grumpy about that then most. Anyhow, there is a ton of discussion and testing on this in most of the forums. This is a good thread for instance: Baffle Cutout Comparisons - Straight vs. Roundover vs. Chamfer Using Wideband Driver


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