# Going back to an OS install, but.....



## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

I'm lost at what to do for my amps. I only have so much room where they're going and I'm curious as to what others opinions are. 

Tweeters: LANZAR TWS 1" 
Mids: LANZAR CS64 6 1/4
Sub: Clarion SSW1200 12" 
EQ: AudioControl DQS 
Xover: LANZAR X3 

Amp choice, 
All are LANZAR opti amps and for all scenarios the Opti500 will be powering the sub

A) Opti50- tweeters 
Opti150- mids
No rear fill

B) Opti100Q- front tweeters/rear speakers
Opti150- mids

And 

C) Opti160- tweeters/mids
No rear fill 

Option B is what I want but I'll be forced to put my processing elsewhere and I simply don't have the room for it.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

Almost 24 hours, and over 70 views and no one..... You're killing me guys. A set of LANZAR MWS6's just popped up on eBay. I'm bidding on them as I would use those over the CS64's. So please play nice.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

Well,...... since no one can give me their OPINIONS, I think I have just enough room to fit my (and in this order from left to right ON the amp rack), AudioControl DQS, LANZAR Opti50-tweeters, LANZAR Opti150- Mids, and LANZAR Opti500. If it looks to busy, I'll nix the Opti50 and Opti150 in favor for the Opti160. 

So that's the update.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

Sorry bud I just saw this 
I would do the 160q on mids & tweets and no rear fill. 
I just did a couple of active older school systems and the power drop is noticeable even on just tweets. 

Another example I had a temp system in my wifes SUV. 
OS Oz 5 1/4" components setup active 
Sii Gemini bridged on each tweet.
Autotek 7300 Bts on the 5 1/4
Autotek 7050 Bts on the rears for kids movies.

Moved to an
Sii Olympus on the 5 1/4 4ohm stereo
Sii Gemini on rears and tweets
The tweets just can't keep up. Even she noticed right away a drop in detail. I am changing back to bridging the Gemini on the tweets and backing down levels to match plenty of head room. Rears just get used for zone 2 so back to deck/factory amp power. I was using a audio control piece as well.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

How is it going? What did you end up with?


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

I'm glad you asked. 

I have just enough room to fit (from L to R) the AudioControl DQS, LANZAR Opti50, Opti500, Opti150. I just pulled the trigger on the purchase of a Clarion CZ702 HU, so that'll allow me to do away with the one thing I was having trouble finding room for, the LANZAR X3. 

I have a bit of time still before I install all of this, so I'm still playing around with things and ideas. I've thought of using the Opti150 to power the LANZAR LP12-4 or the DC8-4 that I have. Then use the Opti160 or the Opti100Q to the mids/tweets actively.

I also found/bought a pair of OS LANZAR MWS6.5 mids that I originally wanted, so I MIGHT use those. Don't know yet as the magnet on those things are freakin huge. Not sure yet if they'll fit. That will be the deciding factor. 

I'm still going to to move forward with the DQS/50/500/150 setup. 50 on the TWS tweets, 150 on the CS64/MWS6.5 mids, 500 on the Clarion SSW1200 sub. All fed signal by the Clarion CZ702 in 3-way active.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

That's funny I just decided that is the deck I'm going to use it specs out very nice. I was sold on the pioneer 99 and 80 but this seem to be every bit of the 80. Please let me know how you like it I am pulling the trigger in the next week or two.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

That sounds like a plan I will warn you though. I am shocked and amazed at how thirsty the tweets can be active. They don't need the current like the midbasses and subs but they can take the power. It has been shocking. 
I think of power amp like an engine. Horsepower=wattage typically and torque=current. The torque is what gets the car moving and the horsepower is needed more on the top end for speed. When you have a balenced powerband that has plenty of torque and power it just seems smoother and has more useable power in more situations. One thing the os opti's are so good at is delivering current that just makes them sound so smooth and have plenty of punch and low end when driving a passive full range system or active low end. There total "wattage" numbers are not always as high even though current factors into the equation. 

So because tweeters like a really light car are such low mass they don't require much current draw but do benefit from having a higher voltage rail vs lower voltage rail and higher current rail to get to the wattage number. Also I have found it very beneficial to bridge 4ch on mids and tweets active because you get much more efficient power output but save the space. When bridging both sides on subs, midbass or fullrange the power supplies can't keep up with the current demands so the voltage drops across the rails and you don't double your power or your total wattage number drops. When place on easier to drive less current thirsty mids and tweets it can still meet the power output ratings because the rail voltage doesn't suffer from voltage drops do to less current demands on the ps. Plus the 4ch opti's are such underrated beasts anyway. The 4chs are the truly underrated models. 

The high current capabilities and strong power supplies of the opti's give the 2chs excellent low end. It is so strong people think they are underrated but the total power or wattage rating isn't. There is just no substitute for current or torque on the lower end the bigger the driver the more current it likes. 

Anyway I'll stop with the tech stuff you more than likely already know. Fact is I have found that the tweeters like to have close to as much power/wattage as the mids. I would not have believed it if i had not tried it. I thought my tweets couldn't handle it. They were rated at 80 max a piece and they were made 1992-3 ish. Haven't had any problems at all. They came alive and it sounded awesome. 

In comparing the opti's I have found a very significant power jump from the 50&100, to the 150&200. There is a very noticeable jump between the 100&150 but not as much between the 50&100, nor as much between 150&200. My two cents. I have spent wayyyyyyyyyyy to much time planning my system. The 150 and 200 are very comparable to the 150 bridged on each side. 

The 500's are in a class by themselves. If I could I would run all opti 2500's or 500's active on everything that is the best mobile amp on the planet and close to the best damn amp period. They just sound so good and not for just subs. They offer all the detail but is so warm and comfortable with effortless power/dynamics. I could listen to it all day. I would need a bus and 5 HO alts to power them properly. 

I know that you know much of this but i discribed more so if someone visited the thread they could learn something.

I'm revamping my plans. I think I'm going to run for my daily driver.
Opti 200 tweets or 150 bridged to each 
Opti 200 mids or 150 bridged to each 
Opti 200 bridged to each midbass
Opti 500 bridged to 12" or 10" sub

Dream system my next system.
Opti 500 stereo or 2 200's bridged to tweets
Opti 500 stereo or 2 200's bridged to mids
Opti 500 midbass
2 Opti 500 on the subs

Thinking about a work truck system
Fully Passive crossover mixed mono powered by a 500 or a 50c With a pair of audio control eqts. For true OS sound.
Good luck on your build my friend! If I ever get out that way I'd love to here it.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

I have the weekend off, thank God. Every day after work this week I'll do a bit more to the amp rack so it's ready to be installed Sunday after I get home from church. There's no race this weekend and the temps are to be in the mid/upper 50's, so I'm going to try like mad to get that amp rack done/installed. The tweets will be the last things I switch out. Currently I'm running the Clarion SSS601 tweets until later this summer when I switch them out for the LANZAR TWS tweets. I have 2 sets of OS LANZAR mids, the ones I REALLY wanted/want to use (MWS65), but I'm not so sure they'll fit, in which case I'll use the CS64 mids.

Amp selection is complete. Tweets- Opti50 (tests show ~52 wpc), mids- Opti150 (tests show ~76 wpc, so dead on), and the sub at 2 ohms mono, Gain set to ~900 wrms- Opti500 (tests show ~1050 w/mono @ 4 ohms). I know at 2 ohms mono it'll draw stupid current, but that is part of the reason as to why I'll be aiming for 900w. The other is to keep the amp at a point were it still has plenty of headroom. The 100 watt difference will be unnoticeble to the human ear, so that is a third reason. 

I'll get some pics posted after it's in.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

Can't wait see the pics and get to hear how you like it. 
I didn't realize the 50 tested out @ 52 watts a ch in 4ohms. That's strong i thought it was 25 and the 100 was 50+ per ch. It should sound great though. Glad you got some time. 
I am a head unit, speakers, material, and some free time away from starting my build.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

I have a few pics though they're not uploaded yet. A few finishing touches need to be done to the amp rack yet. I have an issue with the mids, seems that the prior hole is a pinch to big. I hear noises coming from the mids and.... i felt air around them so I'll have to build an adaptor for the new mids. The eq is about 50% of the way there and the gain on the Opti500 needs turned up a bit. 

All in all it's not to bad. Just a few odds and ends I'll need next weekend for.


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## BoostedOne (Nov 15, 2012)

SilkySlim said:


> Autotek 7300 Bts on the 5 1/4
> .


!!! wow! What kind of 5 1/4's?? Did the amp even get warm? 

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

Not really 4 ohm stereo so about 150-200 potter speaker they rocked out had to run it three quarters of the gain just to keep up with the tweets. It screamed and the mids have a nice snap and punch to them. Current headroom galore! 

They are old school superman Oz 5 1/4" components that i'm running active right now doing some tuning to the wifies car as I type. Not much of a drop off now. I'm adding a set of the superman oz 4" up on the dash apillars. I ran these for rear fill when I competed in the nineties.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

Here's what I've got done so far. 










As you can see between the Opti150 and the DQS there's a bit of a gap. I'm looking for the set of 90* RCA plugs I have somewhere to put on the end and that will allow for me to put in a trimmed out piece there.

Had to make baffles on the door for the LANZAR CS64 mids as they were a bit smaller then the Silver Flutes I had in there. I'd paint to match, but I'm with hopes that I'll be redoing the doors later this summer, so why bother? 

Tuning is next on the list. As I've read in a lot of the LANZAR amp reviews, the Opti's have their best noise floor at roughly half gain. I have mine set to about 20% gain, the Opti500 will need to go up a bit. I use the line driver in the DQS to set the levels of the amps and use the gains as they should be, a "set and forget".

The new Clarion HU's volume goes up to 40, so I set my limit at 34. The rest is for quieter songs Like Dire Straights' Brothers in arms album which is recorded very quietly, to be turned up w/o clipping the signal. The Clarion CZ702 has a very clean signal at that. 

Later I'll switch out the Clarion SSS601 tweeters with the LANZAR TWS tweeters. 

Thus far with what little tuning I've done, it sounds super clean. A few bugs to catch first. Why my sub bottoms out fairly easy w/little output, and the mids are a bit muffled so I have some eq tweaking to get done. 

Behind the bottom cover piece are two 8 post terminal strips, one for the left/drivers side tweet/mid/sub and the right/passengers side for the tweet/mid/remote turn on, a relay for said remote turn ons and then of course the distro block which you can clearly see.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

Very nice my friend. Glad to see the progress. Man I love seeing the Optis back in action. Clean. does the sub go under the seat? 
How is the cz702¿¿ I think i'm ordering mine today! I was going with a 880prs but my friend just had a major pico issue and I think I'll go with the clarion.

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## bigdwiz (Oct 7, 2010)

Lookin' good! A video walkthrough would be cool also!


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

Sunny warm day sports are over today. Going to start my temp build today hopefully. This should get me through until my final hybrid system goes in.

Head unit: Clarion cx-702

Front Stage : OZ superman 5 1/4 mids at least or comps.

Sub: Lanzar DC 10

Front amp: OS Lanzar Opti 2200

Sub amp: OS Lanzar Opti 2200

Hopefully get a big three done today too we'll see. I will more than likely have a big honey do list. 


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