# Audison LRx 5.1k



## typericey

Before anything else, the product shot:







Note that this is a temporary install, amp rack in the plan.

Had the amp installed a few days ago. While many would feel that a 21" x 8" amp footprint may be huge, the Audis actually dwarfed beside my old Nakamichi PA-2004! Also, I lifted these two amps one after the other and the Naks seemed to be a tad heavier. This is car audio's version of a big block V8 versus a Honda Type-R VTEC...that's the best analogy I could think of. Anyway, squeezing 5 channels and 1,600 watts into a 21" x 8" footprint _is_ an awesome power density. 

Before finalizing on the LRx 5.1k, I had the DLS A7, Focal 5.500 and Genesis Profile 5 in my shortlist. And while the LRx 5.1k's cost made me cough out blood, i still felt it is the best choice. With its staggered power and A + AB + D mixed topology, famed sound quality in a power dense package, it's simply the most intuitive 5-channel amp in production today. 

I was hesitating about posting a review because the amp came into my system along with other major changes: a new pair Scan-speak midbass drivers and my first time going full active. Not only that, I also added a layer of deadening in my doors, changed all the signal and speaker cables, and added Dynaxorb mats behind my midbass. With all these system changes it is very difficult to pinpoint improvements that the amp contributed to my system. Anyway, my system did sound cleaner (less amp induced distortion), had more resolution and is a tad more dynamic. I'd risk a bet that these were all contributed by the amp. All these in comparison with the Nakamichi.

The amp was a lot more efficient too! I tried playing it to almost painful listening levels with the engine off and there was virtually no dimming of lights with every bass thump. Another small thing I appreciate is the absence of any noise when turned on. 

When I purchased the amp, I wasn't expecting to have anything to gripe about, but I do. I have quite a major gripe, actually. It's with the sub bass. For some reason, the Audison's bass lacked accuracy, articulation and detail. In fact, it sounded quite muddy and lacked punch. Dare I say, it even "killed the swagger" off my (used to be) audiophile-stylin' IDMax! Again, this is in comparison with the Nakamichi's bridged 3 and 4 channels with 400watts of AB juice. I can't see why the Audison's bass quality can be inferior, the fact that I set up the Naks and the Audis sub outputs very similarly: crossed at 80Hz - 24dB/octave by the HU, flat at the amp's xover, no bass boost, no subsonic filter, no phase adjustment. I'm still in the process of troubleshooting why the Audis sub channel is having this problem. 

Maybe technobug and other LRx5.1k owners out there can chime in and share their thoughts on this. That's it for now. I'll eat my dinner first and post additional thoughts on the amp after I spend more hours, and more tweaking with it.


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## 3.5max6spd

For what its worth, i found the 5.1k to have an insane amount of power for the sub bass. But like you, couldnt find a middle ground where i got any sort of controlled, 'musical' sound from my Dyn subs using that amp, they bumped...but thats it. No matter how carefully i played with the levels, i even went on to add an EQ to help in that regards to no avail.

These woofers simply do not sound like that using the class a/b amps that preceded it or replaced it. So i find we share a common gripe concerning the musicality of that sub section.

BTW, while Audison claims the fronts are class A, i dont believe thats physically possible. If anything the 'class A' bias is more of a marketing thing on this product. Overall the amps is a great all in one solution, however I've experienced better midbass and bass performance with amplifiers like the DLS RA50 and A7, and i'll even say the Audison LRx6.9 despite the less power.


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## Kasti

Hi guys, I’m new to this forum and saw your post about the LRX5.1K. I got the same amp installed with hertz MLK165 and a ML300 sub in sealed box. The seps are wired bi-amped.

I had the same problem when I first installed this amp testing it with my old focal and kicker sub sounding like muddy as you said, but after a series of tweaking I found out that the crossover of the sub on the amp to be used instead of the head unit or used them both. The amp tends to reproduce a full range of frequency when in off position and clearly says there full range on the switch. This is even when your head unit is crossed at 60 or 80, your sub will still sounds like a full range speaker. Try it might help you hear the sounds you like. 

As for me I’m happy with it the thump and punch are there.
Probably the best upgrade I had cause now I got room for groceries (hehehe) .This baby is really small and powerful compare to other 5 channel amp in the market. I’m yet to try my sub with a different amp and hear the difference.


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## jonnyanalog

Typericey:
pm foosman 100. He has a 5.1k.


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## typericey

Kasti said:


> I had the same problem when I first installed this amp testing it with my old focal and kicker sub sounding like muddy as you said, but after a series of tweaking I found out that the crossover of the sub on the amp to be used instead of the head unit or used them both. The amp tends to reproduce a full range of frequency when in off position and clearly says there full range on the switch. This is even when your head unit is crossed at 60 or 80, your sub will still sounds like a full range speaker. Try it might help you hear the sounds you like.


Kasti, my man, you beat me to it! You are absolutely correct! This morning I tried something that didn't have any logical basis: I turned on the low-pass xover of the sub section of the LRx 5.1 even if I already have my HU low passed and EUREKA! My IDMax got back its swagger!

I think Kasti is correct, the amp's sub section goes crazy in full range mode. Why? The best answer I can assume is in the Audison manual which states: 

"Audison has developed a D class amplifier with a 220 kHz clock frequency, more than twice the current standards. This technique can reproduce the entire sound range, but is strengthened for Subwoofer frequencies."

For some reason, the bass sounds muddled/disembodied/out of phase/out of control when the crossover is not activated, even if you are already feeding it with a low-pass signal from the HU or external xover! Italian quirkiness right there... 

So, to all LRx 5.1k owners and would be owners, read and heed: _the low pass crossover of the LRx 5.1k MUST be switched on, even if you are using an external crossover. _

With that, I'm going to go a full 180 degrees from what I stated in my 1st review: The LRx 5.1k's sub channel is clean, correct, powerful, with SQ worthy of it's other 4 channels. I just had to say this to keep from putting Audison in a bad light with my earlier review.


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## xcoldricex

ahhhh i will have to try this!


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## Kasti

@typericey i'm happy it work for you too  

here's a picture of mine. i know it says steal me but it is pretty safe where i'm at and proud to have one


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## foosman

Go with something like this and you won't have to worry about the steal me factor so much. I do really like that install tho.


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## thesoundxperience

typericey said:


> Kasti, my man, you beat me to it! You are absolutely correct! This morning I tried something that didn't have any logical basis: I turned on the low-pass xover of the sub section of the LRx 5.1 even if I already have my HU low passed and EUREKA! My IDMax got back its swagger!
> 
> I think Kasti is correct, the amp's sub section goes crazy in full range mode. Why? The best answer I can assume is in the Audison manual which states:
> 
> "Audison has developed a D class amplifier with a 220 kHz clock frequency, more than twice the current standards. This technique can reproduce the entire sound range, but is strengthened for Subwoofer frequencies."
> 
> For some reason, the bass sounds muddled/disembodied/out of phase/out of control when the crossover is not activated, even if you are already feeding it with a low-pass signal from the HU or external xover! Italian quirkiness right there...
> 
> So, to all LRx 5.1k owners and would be owners, read and heed: _the low pass crossover of the LRx 5.1k MUST be switched on, even if you are using an external crossover. _
> 
> With that, I'm going to go a full 180 degrees from what I stated in my 1st review: The LRx 5.1k's sub channel is clean, correct, powerful, with SQ worthy of it's other 4 channels. I just had to say this to keep from putting Audison in a bad light with my earlier review.


Good thing we have this straightened out for you typepricey. 
I personally called Kasti to give his opinion on this, knowing he installed the same amp and has shown fantastic results. Rest assured you didn't go wrong choosing the LRx5.1k. It still remains to be one of the best 5-channel amp available in the market today.


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## MajorChipHazard

I've fitted this amp in a friends car powering a pair of JBL GTI 6in splits active and an 8in GTO sub,(the sub is mounted under the glove box up front).We were very skeptic that the lil 200w RMS sub would fry from this monster.We were wrong,this amp is so clean,the sub loves it.The splits sound so much more controlled and detailed vs being powered from the previous JBL power series amp.We too experienced the same issue with the sub channel but found the problem after fidgeting around for a few hours


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## xcoldricex

thing is, people probably don't know what it is since they probably don't know about audison so they probably wouldn't steal it. i might be tempted though 

putting on the LP filter made a HUGE difference, thank you, thank you, thank you.


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## Jopop

Wat. I've been having some problems with muddy bass, but i run an ubercheap audison... the SRx1 infact. Gonna try the LP on for sure. Where do you guys put it? I would like to keep using the xover on the HU as i change the point depending on if i am going for an SQ sound (50hz) or an SQL (80hz) sound. Good to put it at 80ish then? Or would this introduce phase issues.


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## Kasti

Jopop said:


> Wat. I've been having some problems with muddy bass, but i run an ubercheap audison... the SRx1 infact. Gonna try the LP on for sure. Where do you guys put it? I would like to keep using the xover on the HU as i change the point depending on if i am going for an SQ sound (50hz) or an SQL (80hz) sound. Good to put it at 80ish then? Or would this introduce phase issues.


mine is crossed @ 80 and adjust through the HU lower whenever i feel like


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## CraigE

FYI
Page 56 of the manual says " If you configure SUB Channel in LO-PASS mode and do not want to use the external Volume Control,you must insert the supplied SUB VOL connector into the proper socket of the amplifier.


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## "that boy asad"

CraigE said:


> FYI
> Page 56 of the manual says " If you configure SUB Channel in LO-PASS mode and do not want to use the external Volume Control,you must insert the supplied SUB VOL connector into the proper socket of the amplifier.


awesome info, thanks...


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## alo

hi! 

jus installed this amp a couple of weeks back and am very happy with the clean sounds tat it produces.. 

jus one gripe..do u guys have a switching "click" sound when the amp is turned on and off? it seems uncharacteristically loud because i did not notice it in my old autotek amps..


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## chongl

Maybe just the relay clicking on?


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## alo

i think so too.. guess it should be fine..jus find it a tat irritating.. other than that the amp's pretty for a 2-way active front setup.. =)


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## casão

I have that in mine as well.


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## alo

casão said:


> I have that in mine as well.


thanz for the feedback.. at least i know tat its normal. =)


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## IBcivic

it's probably noise from an outside source. my audisons[owned 4 different models] have always been super quiet, no clicks,buzz,bumps,thumps, whatsoever.


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## typericey

no turn on/off click in the LRx 5.1k that I had (note the past tense. i deeply regret ever selling it - best amp i've ever owned)


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## alo

stinky06 said:


> it's probably noise from an outside source. my audisons[owned 4 different models] have always been super quiet, no clicks,buzz,bumps,thumps, whatsoever.


for mine, i am quite certain the clicking sounds come from the amp. As mentioned earlier, they only happen when the amplifier is turned on or off by the headunit.

Like wat chongl has mentioned, i believe tat they should be caused by the relay switchin in the amp..


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## james2266

Well, just got this amp installed in my ride over the past 3 days. This thing has a crazy amount of sub bass output and it seems super clean too. I haven't checked to see if they turned on the sub crossover on the amp however. I actually had to turn down the sub output as it was drounding out everything else it seemed. I find the high end is a little muffled however. I also had a brand new set of Hertz HSK 165s installed and they said that I would have to come back in for a retune in a few weeks after they have broken in. I am wondering if they deliberately turned that part of the amp down a bit to protect the tweeters maybe. I had the exact opposite in my previous install with a PDX-5 as the amp so maybe they went a little overboard to give me more sub bass. I, too, am amazed that my Boston G2 is handing the wattage just fine too. It is rated at 300w rms and is receiving 1150 w rms at 2 ohm!  It seems to love it tho. NO bottoming out that I've noticed yet. I also have a Bit One.1 as a processor being used and not exactly sure what they have things set at. I might attach my laptop to it one day and see exactly what thing are set at or I might just ask more questions (maybe get a printout) when I go in for the re-tune. So far this thing packs a punch for sure and I am loving it so far Just wish I had a little more high end clarity but that could be deliberately done. I will check on the crossover one of these days too. Thanks for the tip.


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## jooonnn

Can't wait til i test mine out this weekend courtesy of Ryan Slade! A+ Guy


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## evan

I've got a LRx 6.9 for my next install and I'm wondering if you guys feel the crossovers included in these amps are sufficient for running an active system or if you would still recommend an external crossover.


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## jooonnn

Love my new 5.1k. It just feels right. haha

Anyways, as for the external crossover, you should be fine running active off the amp, but you will see a huge difference when you use a nice processor like the Pioneer DEH-P01 or Bitone.

In my personal experience, I've been wow'ed each time i went from

Passive Crossovers -> Active Crossovers on amps
Active Crossovers on Amp -> Active via CDA-9887
Active Via CDA-9887 -> Active Via DEH-P01

I'm talking an honest noticeable difference as well each time, but the prices each time have been an honest noticeable difference as well


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## alo

jooonnn said:


> Love my new 5.1k. It just feels right. haha
> 
> Anyways, as for the external crossover, you should be fine running active off the amp, but you will see a huge difference when you use a nice processor like the Pioneer DEH-P01 or Bitone.
> 
> In my personal experience, I've been wow'ed each time i went from
> 
> Passive Crossovers -> Active Crossovers on amps
> Active Crossovers on Amp -> Active via CDA-9887
> Active Via CDA-9887 -> Active Via DEH-P01
> 
> I'm talking an honest noticeable difference as well each time, but the prices each time have been an honest noticeable difference as well


haaa... i guess u won't see much love with tat last statement of yours in a DIY forum.. 

yeah jus like u i love my LRx5.1k.. and even though the amp crossovers do offer alternatives for running actively.. but i prefer using the crossovers on the headunit (if its possible) as its more convenient for tuning and sounded better to me..


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## james2266

Bit One.1 all the way man! I love my LRx5.1k-BitOne.1 combo. Now I just need a good dvd-nav system. A couple months maybe less hopefully  The art of car audio - there is always something else needed.:laugh:


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## HertzGuy

So I have been contemplating buying this amp for awhile now. But now I have concerns as now have the funds to _actually_ buy it:
I have the ESK 163L (3ways) in the front and the ECX 165 coax's in the rear doors but was planning on getting a set of EV 165 for midbass duties in the rear doors instead of the coax's. I will also be upgrading from my JL sub to the HX 300.

The LRx 5.1k has 2ch for "tweeters *or* midranges" and 2ch for midbasses and the 5th for the sub. 
So power for my 3way's and rear midbasses couldn't be fulfilled solely from this single amp, could it?

I could put the tweeters and midranges on 2ch at 60W ea. but then each speaker will only get 30W, and the midbasses if I put both sets (front and rear doors) on the other 2ch each will get about 40W, that's not enough juice!
So should i stick with this amp and power the tweeters and front midbasses from the LRx and use a second amp to power the midranges in the front door and rear midbasses, (then I could go active using both amps xovers) or should I rethink my amplification options??
Anyone got any thoughts/ideas/suggestions...

I really like this amp, but at how much it costs I could probably afford to buy a couple of amps to make this system work at a discounted price than the LRx


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## james2266

Ok, I have some questions and ideas for you. First, what kind of a vehicle is this we are talking about? If it is not huge (like a Suburban or something), why do you think you need rear speakers at all? Maybe you are in the thinking that I was in before I went with this setup. All cars come with 4 speaker locations at least so you need to have 4 speakers (front and rear). That is far from the truth. Are you planning on running Dolby 5.1 surround in your vehicle? If the answer is no then I say ditch the rear speakers totally and run active on your front comps. I am running my 5.1k into one set of HSK 165 up front and the sub channel is hammering on a Boston G2 and it is taking it like a trooper. This amp has so much control it can make any sub sound great apparently doesn't matter how much the sub is rated at. Mine is rated at 300 rms and it is getting 1150w rms at 2 ohms! I haven't looked but I bet the sub channel is turned down alot on the Bit One.1 controlling everything. So the 160 w rms goes to my mid basses in the doors and 50w rms goes to the tweeters in front. I have no rears and I do not miss them one bit. Only way I would go with rears is if I wanted 5.1 surround and that would require another processor and another amp to run the rears and center. I have no intention of doing that as I have messed with 5.1 surround before and it is overrated unless you spend a bundle of money to do it right. I am not about to do that. This amp is best suited for this exact type of setup. I hope I have given you some ideas and insight into this fine amp. Oh, got my nav system now to - Pioneer Z110BT. Got about 1.5 weeks to get it installed now. I can't wait.


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## HertzGuy

thank you for the ideas, I have a 3way setup in the front, a tweet, midrange, midbass, how are the frequencies separated to the tweet and midrange if I put both on the same 2ch?
I do not want to get rid of my rear fill, no I am not doing a 5.1 surround sound, but I have tried to listen to the system with and without the rear fill and there is definitely something missing in the listening experience without them. Both my girlfriend and I agree. So I am keeping them.
Also, when first installed the ESK 163L 3ways the dealer didn't have the 3in mids in stock so I rocked it for a week until they got delivered and once installed there was a significant increase in sound "depth" and "imaging" that was absent. So I will be keeping them in the system.
I don't really want to buy new components to work with this amp as I am super pleased with how they sound, just trying to figure out if I should reconsider investing so much money in this amp if its not going to be what I need.

BTW this is in an 07 VW Gti 4 door


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## james2266

If you have to have rear fill then you have two different options to go. You could run the 50 watts A channel of the 5.1k to the rears and the 160 watt B channel to the 3 way set and sub to the sub of course. The other option would be to buy another amp and run the B channel to the mid bass in the front, the a channel to the mid and tweet using the crossover that came with the 3 way set. I would say you should not have that second amp too powerful for the rears so as to not pull the sound stage to the rear too much. 40-50 watts rms max per channel would be plenty. One question I have tho is what kind of processor do you have? Are you using an external processor or just what's in your deck? If just deck, what deck is it? If you do not have an external processor, I would strongly consider one like the Bit One.1. You won't be disappointed with the addition; trust me. Also, if you don't have an external and you are going to go with the 5.1k running it all, you will have to find a way to dial back the tweeter from blowing your eardrums off. This is what makes the 5.1k such a nice setup powering one set of comps and a sub. The power has already been dialed back for the tweet compared to the woofer and it has a ton of power for a sub. This was mu biggest concern when I got the amp - getting a sub that would not be destroyed by this thing. This thing is so damned clean that it can power anything I think without destroying it - set up properly of course. I still wonder how much I'm missing without having a sub that can take the full 1000w power. I am going to ask my installer what the sub channel is sitting at too when I get the nav put in. I am curious.


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## HertzGuy

I currently have no processing, been contemplating the Bit.one or possibly Audiocontrol LC8, I have an Alpine IVA-W505, so I'm also thinking about Imprint. If I go bit.one don't need Imprint though right??
I thought about running rears on A and fronts on B but then I am left with only about 50W to each speaker in my 3ways, which is barely more than my current setup. Don't want that, I want more midbass coverage that blends well with my midranges- the tweeters, I really like them, they are loud crisp and bright-me likey!!
For the sub I was Planning on the HX300 rated at 600W, but another guy at that shop has the LRx3.1k pushing that same sub and says it takes it and then some!!
I do like your second idea though, just get a 2nd amp to run the rears, a small 2ch...yeah I like that, I started thinking about just getting separate amps to run each set of speakers, 1 for the front, 1 for the rear and 1 for the Sub, but then I got concerned about the current load that would put on my electrical system, so maybe your idea is pretty good. Hmmm, thanks for that, its good to be able to bounce ideas off of other people...


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## james2266

I think you might be a little confused. I said A channel to rears and B Channel to the front comps. That would give the rears about 50 watts and the front 3 way comps would get the 160 watts. Your crossover does not divide power amongst the 3 speakers either it just divides frequencies up. Your tweets would be getting the 160 watts in their frequency range which is too much if you ask me. I have seen a curve from a bit one with that kind of setup and the tweeter range of the frequency spectrum was severely depressed to get good balance with the other frequencies. I am not overly familiar with the Energy line but I have heard the 2 way version and their tweeters are quite a bit brighter than my high energy ones. I personally did not like at all but that is opinion. You like them and that's all that matters. I think they sounded too much like my old Infinity tweeters which would almost drive you out of the car. lol As for if you went Bit One there would be absolutely no need for Imprint. Imprint is good but it doesn't hold a candle to the Bit One and I'm sure if you ask around you will hear similar opinions. I was hesitant on getting it myself but boy am I glad I got it. I find myself not worried about HUs that have time alignment and eq and all that which really seriously limits your choices in the DDIN class of HUs. I now look for things that will make my driving experience easier and more enjoyable and my HU is a lot cheaper t buy now. I shelled out over $1500 on one last year and was hugely disappointed. This time I got one at around $900 and it has navi and voice activation and a much better interface than my old Kenwood clunker 814. It doesn't have any of that high end sound manipulation but with the Bit One I have no need for it at all.


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## james2266

My original plan was to upgrade my front set to Mille or maybe the new HSK165XLs and move my current set's midbass to the back and get another amp to power them. After hearing this thing all setup with no rears at all, I don't find I miss them at all. It gets loud and the way the Bit One images everything it seriously makes you feel like you are in the middle of a concert hall with an almost surround effect. That is just reflections coming from behind me and the imaging quality of Hertz speakers I am told. I have almost completely put that idea out of my mind. However, I can still see myself upgrading my front comps and sub sometime down the road. I really like the way the new XL's (and Mille's too for that matter) have such a wider soundstage. Voices really seem to have so much more depth. That was from a comparison on a sound board too so I can only imagine that difference would be 2-3 fold in a car. I need to get a bit of a nest egg built up before any more upgrades tho.


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## Lancejoker

Hey guys. I just purchased this amp to power my entire system (HAT Legatia L6 and L1v2 and a Hertz Mille ML3000 sub). Looks like a lot of guys are running a similar setup. I'm wondering,did you use the Low or HI ECI for the amp and how did you wire it? Also what did you, or what should I set my crossover points at on the amp? Any help would be much appreciated. This is my first setup of this caliber.


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## jooonnn

the HI ECI is for speaker level inputs, aka no RCA's. Just use the Low ECI thats already pre assembled. Set your crossover points very liberally, like if you plan on using a HPF at 80 on your head unit, put it at 100 or 120 on your amp, etc. Crossover points all depend on drivers and locations, so play around with it. On a side note, I've been debating on two ml2500s or two ml3000s for the longest time!


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## james2266

I, personally, am not a fan of using cascading crossovers but if you are planning on that this is the way to do it for sure. You can change on the go that way through the deck. That Hertz Mille dilemma is definitely not a bad one. You win either way.  I am going to probably end up going with a single 10 or 12. Just not sure what exactly. It will probably be Mille 10 if I go 10inch as it will drop right into my current box (cheaper) but if I go 12 it might just be a Morel Ultimo. Of course I might end up with High Energy versions too. It will definitely only ever be one sub tho for space conservation reasons. My current Boston G2 seems to be handling it fine tho so until it drops dead I will probably look at upgrading other things first when I get some money for this again. That in itself could be a while off anyway so I will just enjoy this current setup for a while. I can't wait to get my Z110BT in a little over a week. It looks great in its box on my bedroom floor but I think it will be much nicer in my dash. lol


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## alo

Same here, i normally use only the crossovers from either the deck or the amp. 

But for this amp, do note that it is apparently better to switch on the LPF for the sub channel aka channel C. It has been discussed before in some other thread and I personally has tried it. Using it does give u a more controlled and greater bass output..


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## CraigE

Don't overlook this;

Page 56 of the manual says " If you configure SUB Channel in LO-PASS mode and do not want to use the external Volume Control,you must insert the supplied SUB VOL connector into the proper socket of the amplifier.


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## Torquem

For those of you running the 5.1k; how strong is the sub channel? Im curious how it is going to push my 12w7.


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## james2266

This thing has a ton of power on the sub channel and it is ssssooooo clean. I am actually only running a Boston G2 on mine wired to 2 ohms. It is getting 1150 rms and the sub hasn't exploded yet! It is only rated for 300 rms! My installer said he had 2x Hertz Mille 2500 on his and they moved like crazy. Hell my G2 pounds like never before. When I really turn it up, everything shakes in the ride. It has enough for your W7 IMO.


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## slade1274

Pushing a pair of SI BM at 4ohm quite nicely in my ride.


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## sygnal

question 

have a seas reference seps tweets are 6 ohms midbas is 4ohm how much power it will give on the tweets since it is 6 ohm... sub will be seas also or image dynamics thx


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## slade1274

The only real answer is "enough"; but the actual number will be less than 50.


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## wdemetrius1

Slade1274, where in Atlanta is your shop located?


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## Accordman

mine clicks but doesnt bother me at all


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## scottx

Kasti said:


> @typericey i'm happy it work for you too
> 
> here's a picture of mine. i know it says steal me but it is pretty safe where i'm at and proud to have one


That's awesome!

This forum sucks because it won't let me post images! I helped write the code in vBull! How ironic.


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## matthewo

here is a picture of mine mounted under the rear deck with a bitone beside it

i have been very happy with this amp. its got a lot of balls and sounds amazing. clean and accurate. its astonishing it has a powerful class d amp intergrated, if you where just listening to the system you would think the system would have at least 2 or more amps powering the speakers. the amp is truely a gem




















here is the 9110c its powering, dd audios "SQ" driver. it actually does blend very well, and gets plently loud, and is very transparent and stays out of the way of the front stage well.


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## [email protected]

Here's an install I did with a 5.1k. It powered 2 ML3800's very nicely! (and I have one in my personal vehicle that along with an 4.1k powers my system..)


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## Lancejoker

Where do you guys have your gains set?


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## matthewo

The way I was running it before was tweeter at 1, midbass at 3 or 4 and subs at about half. None of this really maters cause I do all my level matching with the bitone.

I will be adding an amp to run just my midbasses cause I'm going 3 way, so the lrx will be running sub, midrange, tweeters. So the 170x2 channel will really be turned down when running 3" mids, mmm headroom


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## flexdmc

Audison was the brand of choice for me before I "settled" on the JL HD line due to space and weight concerns.
Audison makes some really nice hardware!


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## deraeler

YES I have that click.. Please help me get rid of it, I'm scared it's going to pop my Hertz drivers. Someone suggested dropping the REM ON signal from 12V to 5V, but the LRX manual says it needs at least 7V. Can't imagine why this would be the issue though.

I'm also having the "SUB sounds like crap scenario". Given the comment about p.56 of the manual -"_Page 56 of the manual says " If you configure SUB Channel in LO-PASS mode and do not want to use the external Volume Control, you must insert the supplied SUB VOL connector into the proper socket of the amplifier._" - first off, I didn't get a SUB VOL connector with mine. Second, I'm using a BitOne, so since it's controlling the input volume, I don't think I really want to override/disable this. All my LRX internal crossovers are disabled (all set to FULL).

I need to do some more experimentation with the EQ, but I'm a bit discouraged right now.

Help!


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## Sound Suggestions

deraeler said:


> YES I have that click.. Please help me get rid of it, I'm scared it's going to pop my Hertz drivers. Someone suggested dropping the REM ON signal from 12V to 5V, but the LRX manual says it needs at least 7V. Can't imagine why this would be the issue though.
> 
> I'm also having the "SUB sounds like crap scenario". Given the comment about p.56 of the manual -"_Page 56 of the manual says " If you configure SUB Channel in LO-PASS mode and do not want to use the external Volume Control, you must insert the supplied SUB VOL connector into the proper socket of the amplifier._" - first off, I didn't get a SUB VOL connector with mine. Second, I'm using a BitOne, so since it's controlling the input volume, I don't think I really want to override/disable this. All my LRX internal crossovers are disabled (all set to FULL).
> 
> I need to do some more experimentation with the EQ, but I'm a bit discouraged right now.
> 
> Help!


Quick question; Are you currently using all channels and also how is it configured. For example; what is connected to channel a, b and c

(tweeter to a, midbass/midrange to b and 1 or 2 subs to c)

This amp is quite complicated and it must be run accordingly.


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## The_Grimy_One

matthewo said:


> here is a picture of mine mounted under the rear deck with a bitone beside it
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> i have been very happy with this amp. its got a lot of balls and sounds amazing. clean and accurate. its astonishing it has a powerful class d amp intergrated, if you where just listening to the system you would think the system would have at least 2 or more amps powering the speakers. the amp is truely a gem
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> here is the 9110c its powering, dd audios "SQ" driver. it actually does blend very well, and gets plently loud, and is very transparent and stays out of the way of the front stage well.


Very very clean install. Love the spare wheel box!


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## SACRAMANIAC916

this amp is incredible!!! i heard this with high energy comps and hertz subs...amazing!!!


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## deraeler

Single stereo pre-amp pair from HU to the BitOne.
BO Channels 1/2 -> LRX ChA (tweets); Ch. 3/4 -> LRX Ch B (mid/woof-doors); Ch. 5 -> LRX SUB IN (Left I think)...

I crossover the Sub LPF at 225Hz, the mid-woofers Band-pass 150Hz-6500Hz; tweets HPF at 1100. All slopes are standard 12db Linkwitz.

Obviously the thread here caught my interest. As I'm setting all my LRX channel filters to FULL, as instructed by Audison USA. (BitOne is doing all the crossovers, so this is necessary to disable the LRX crossovers). Obviously I want to trust the BitOne to do its thing.

The interesting comment in this thread is that the LPF should be ENABLED on the LRX SUB channel (Filter switch set to LO instead of FULL). I tried this last night and it did give it a little goose. But the sub still sounds weak, and its only giving me 6-7Volts at the sub speaker terminals with the gain up high. Not sure what this range should be precisely, although I heard the max for the LRX-5.1 into 2-Ohms is like 63V.

We hooked up my buddy's bass cabinet (single 4-Ohm 12" driver&horn, 400W) and it sounded better but was still weak and hollow. 

Some specific questions:
- should I use a Y-splitter to split the single (Ch 5) BitOne output to the two LRX5.1 SUB IN RCA's? 

- IF I understand the doc correctly, I would think I'd want to set the SUB IN selector to MIX A+B only if I'm taking a stereo Subwoofer input from a unit that outputs a stereo SUB signal. (even if I use a Y-adapter, that's not the case here, I don't need this because I'm using a mono signal from the BitOne, correct?)

- guy from Audison told me I don't really need the plug that goes on the SUB VOL connector (that ships with a new unit - I don't have one) - the manual says to put this on the SUB VOL connector if you're not using an external sub vol control. I'm not using an external sub vol control - at least not over this connector (ie: BitOne), so it would seem to me that I would need one of these plugs.

btw - I had thought my enclosure mighit be too big for the Earthquake sws-15's, but I'm actually right at their recommended size - just under .8 cuft. I did try reducing this down under .5, but it made little difference.

I have a bigger issue going on here - I need to verify my LRX is putting out what it needs to. Your input is definitely appreciated. 

I also need to test my sub on another amp/install - I tried at a local dealer today thinking they might have a bench system hooked up - no luck though.


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## deraeler

I should start a separate thread to discuss the transient pop issue (one headache at a time). If anyone is familiar with wiring a PAC-200 isolator in support of a Kole BattCap please let me know. It's working as it should, I get maybe an hour at mod volume running off the BattCap, but when I shut off everything off (all goes off with the HU) I'm getting that killer pop.


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## vfparts

anyone here running the front two channel to a set of morel piccolo tweeters? Just wondering if its enough power considering that they are rated at 200 watts rms.


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## low2001gmc

wow....i like the lrx 3.1 for a simple yet powerful enough one amp solution for my truck.


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## jockhater2

VTEC...lol


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## Cooluser23

Thanks for the review. The stereo shop I went to to listen to speakers suggested this for my small car.

Originally I was going to go with an JL HD/900 or Alpine PDX or similar fancy class D, but now I'm not sure anymore.. - decisions, decisions..


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## [email protected]

I know this is an old thread, but I wonder how this amp stacks up against the Mosconi AS 200.4.


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## slade1274

Completely different animals. A 4 channel A/B amp with all channels 200 vs a hybrid 5 channel amp with a low power A biased pair of channels for tweeters, higher power pair of A/B channels for woofers, and a high power class D channel for a subwoofer. It was designed for an active 2way plus sub system and does it very well


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