# Sealed door pod enclosures?



## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

I am currently in the process of making door pods for my 6.5" component woofers. I was wondering if its good for the mid-bass woofer to be in a sealed pod or should I keep the back of the pod open to let the sound travel through the whole door? I'm not too knowledgeable in this area. I would appreciate all your help on this topic. 

All the specs like Vas and QTS is very hard to understand if you need those specs I can relay them to you

Thanks in advance


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## Gary S (Dec 11, 2007)

As long as the baffle area and the door surface near the speaker driver are sealed well so that there are little to no air leaks that could cancel bass/midbass, the door will act like a infinite baffle and be fine.

The biggest problem with doors is that they are rattle-boxes... use lots of damping material, or consider putting speakers in kick panels.

Edit: I reread your post... if you can seal any holes on the door baffle within a foot or so from the speaker, I'd let it vent into the door... you'll probably get better extension and a smoother roll-off, and a little more efficiency. In most cases, the only thing a small box does is save space and increase power handling.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Determining how they would work is no different from building a sub box for car audio. The nature of the driver plus the vehicle's acoustics would need to be considered. There are some that will work in an micro enclosure, but generally not car audio drivers as most are made for IB in stock locations. I have some Audax car audio drivers in the closet that have odd specs more like for ported (low Vas, low Qts, low FS) or very small sealed (.1 cu ft) with a high rolloff. Seem like they were made for installs of that nature. One day I may try it. Anyhow post up the model # and/or specs...

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/34898-comparative-analysis-plugging-holes-your-inner-door-skin.html


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

qts .54
vas (lit) 9.90
fs (hz) 59


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

If I wanted to do a seal enclosure in the door for a mid, I would use a Seas W18NX. It's a world class midbass/midrange and it has an F3 of 80Hz in only .3cf of volume space.


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

t3sn4f2 said:


> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/34898-comparative-analysis-plugging-holes-your-inner-door-skin.html


your talking about sealing the door itself. I am talking about a enclosure completely sealed that attaches to the door (pod). or If i should have the pod back open so the sound would travel through the door. and If my woofer which way would be best/more efficient for my woofers.

good info tho, i appreciate it.

this is more what i'm doing

should I seal the back on the pod or keep it open? specs are above








[/url] door pod by breakyurankles, on Flickr[/IMG]


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

and my reasoning for wanting a sealed pod is because there's a lot of water that runs into the inside of my doors I don't want my woofers getting wet and damaging them. with humidity and other elements getting to them.


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## Gary S (Dec 11, 2007)

My box program says you could go as small as 0.18 CF without hearing a peak in a car.


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

they are the hertz mille mlk 165 mid-bass woofers.


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## Gary S (Dec 11, 2007)

If the pod vents into the door, the door becomes part of the enclosure and it's necessary to seal the holes in the door for best results.

To protect the drivers from water would be a good enough reason to seal the pods.


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

Gary S said:


> If the pod vents into the door, the door becomes part of the enclosure and it's necessary to seal the holes in the door for best results.
> 
> To protect the drivers from water would be a good enough reason to seal the pods.


Thank you for all your help. I'm not very knowledgeable in this area. 

I'm going to try sealed and If i dont get the performance i'm looking for i'll try vented with a mesh grill on the back of the pod? to help block out some of the water and maybe fill it with polyfil? hmm...


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

and another question. If i have more than .18 CF is it better, and how much is too much? or it doesn't matter as long as you have the minimum recommended airspace?


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## Gary S (Dec 11, 2007)

Theil And Small enclosure requirements are minimums; you can go bigger, but try not to go smaller.

The only advantage with smaller enclosures is a little more power handling... but if you have subs and are using a high-pass in the amps or processor for the comps, there would probably be no difference.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

HiFiAudioGuy34 said:


> and another question. If i have more than .18 CF is it better, and how much is too much? or it doesn't matter as long as you have the minimum recommended airspace?


That all depends on the box Q that .18 was at. You can use a box Q anywhere in the range of .54 up to 1.1 with the latter presenting a peak in response. The lower will present a flatter response besides what the car's acoustics will add. However, going that low will pretty much be the equivalent of running it IB so not much advantage to that besides the sealed pod giving some air spring. A Q of .707 is usually optimum and hopefully the .18 cu ft is that. The main aspect to look at with any given size will be excursion depending on how low you cross it. With a sealed pod you should have more room to play on the high pass settings since cone excursion will be more controlled compared to the normal IB install for the same mid woofers. You can go lower or handle a bit more power. Just make sure you dampen the enclosure well to avoid added resonance.

Now the question is do you have room for that size? Sounds small until you start trying to fit it.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Water doesn't always have to be the deal breaker though, especially if the drivers is somewhat properly protected from above and is a purpose built car product.


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

Im probably going to run them at 100hz or so. I will have a 10w6 as a subwoofer. So i wont need too much low end from my mid-bass woofers.


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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Sounds like a plan so far... just don't get hung up on any xover points at this time. Tune it to the way it blends & performs best regardless of general consensus. Only need to be concerned with break up & over excursion.


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## HiFiAudioGuy34 (Mar 30, 2011)

Yeah I totally understand where you're coming from. I'll be tuning by ear anyways so 100 hz was just an estimation point.


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