# subwoofer for a .......Ski Boat.



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

I am in the process of pieicing together a set up for a nice size size boat. As of now the owner is running RF p2's fire up under the rear seat..........the problem is I am not a big fan of the P2s and either way I am going to down fire them to avoid water from passengers getting in a out of the boat. Also relocate the amplifier into the side of the boat, again to avoid passengers wet asses. I need a dynamic woofer that can do well in a small enclosure on a budget so the first thing that comes to mind is the Dayton HO/HF.....which would be best for this open cab type of enviroment. I will like to do 2 10's in the rear and 1 up front....the key to what he is wanting is to spread the sound through out the boat. Also would I be wasting my time going ported in such of enviroment? The highs/mids will probably be RSD 2 way coaxials, three pair(front/middle/rear) to help get as loud as possible with out too much strain.

Another thing i have to figure out is amplifiers.....I figure that a four channel amplifier could run all three sets of coaxials.....but what amplifier would I need to power as far as if they are 4 ohm woofers and I wire them up what ohm will the amplifier see?.....would be nice to use an all in one amplifier like the NIne.5 to power the whole set up, or even the 25 to life 1000 RF.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

I can tell you from experience form the thirty or so boats I've done over the years. The best subs I've found as far as durability sound and price are as follows.

1. Polk Momo
2. Bazooka Marine
3. Alpine type E
4. Memphis Marine

The two best places I've found are on each side of the respetive helm, under the dash firing towards the rear. And under the back seat firing fowards. Just use a Marine certified sub: both the Bazooka and polk are. Use a descent subwoofer grille and you can spray em with a hose with damaging anything. Also definately go sealed; I typically try to avoid getting moisture into my voicecoils.
Amp wise I would go with something fairly efficient that also has good cooling. Like the new lines of class D amps from everybody, you only have to go with marine amps if you can't keep them relatively dry. I used an O/S Xtant 404m and 121m on my Cousins formula without any problems.

I'll post up some photos of what I mean shortly.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

Give us some pics of the boat and your placement Ideas.
Also as far as your box goes, just build it out of MDF like normal and then use a couple good coats of fiberglass resin; this is actualy how allot of marine service places "waterproof" things like engine hatches. Speker wise I've had really good luck and results with Rockford power series, Bazooka Marine, and Polk Momo. I would have to say Bazooka is the loudest and most durable with Polk being the best sounding. Again all Polk products are Marine Certified.


Boat Photos


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

The boat pictures looks about like it.... There are seat on both sides of the mottor facing foward as well as the seats facing backwards that are located agains the driver/passenger seats. So you say Polk is the best bet...what woofers Model did you enjoy thr best.....also if I were to run 3 woofers what final load would I end up with? Link me some models of the coaxials and woofers that you liked. If he wanted to pay for it I was going to do some glassing but I had the MDF coated with resin in mind.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

what kind of boat is it? year/Make/Model?
Also how long do you plan on Coving?


----------



## jp88 (Jun 25, 2007)

You could also go with birch ply instead of mdf. Not a big difference in price and a pretty sizable weight savings
I would also recommend that if you are going to resin coat wood for the purposes of water proofing that a good epoxy based resin like west system or cpd would be better than polyester based products.

If price were no object Id say Jl marine (flamesuit on) Id be very interested in knowing who the dayton rs stuff would hold up in a marine environment I think for the price it may be worth a try.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

AMPS
Alpine PDX-1.600m $599 MSRP
Alpine PDX-4.100m $599 MSRP
Crutchfield


FRONT & REAR SPEAKERS
(1) Polk MMC6500 6.5" Component $349








(2) Polk MMC650 6.5" Coax $199









SUBS
(2) Polk MM2104 $149.99









HEAD UNIT
Sony CDX H905ip $349









With wired Remote Sony RM-X55m $130 Mounted on or next to swim platform.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Go for kill, you are not going to "spread out" low end, period, get all the drivers close and utilize their coupling. Go for as efficient driver/enclosure combo you can, there is NO transfer function, think PA speaker design and don't be afraid to sacrifice low, low, end. If you can hit a -3 of 35 loud be happy, I'd really not concern myself with anything below 40Hz. The waves hitting the hull will make uber low end moot, use efficient amps, the system will most likely be utilized the most with the engine off, battery wear and tear becomes an issue at this point.

You have a lot going against you, ambient noise, lots of it, not much room (efficiency goes up with size) and a limited source of power.... Godspeed rice boy.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Loudtaco said:


> what kind of boat is it? year/Make/Model?
> Also how long do you plan on *Coving*?


Ill find out make and model when I talk to him......as far as coving I assume you me parking and swimming?


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

unpredictableacts said:


> Ill find out make and model when I talk to him......as far as coving I assume you me parking and swimming?



You Can't Forget Drinking!

That is one of the bigest things for me, make a great sounding loud system that is really eficient and thus can play for hours on batteries. Deffinately gonna need at least two large deep cycle batteries.

And yes just do two subs, either where I have them pictured on the cobalt or under the backseat.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

chad said:


> Go for kill, you are not going to "spread out" low end, period, get all the drivers close and utilize their coupling. Go for as efficient driver/enclosure combo you can, there is NO transfer function, think PA speaker design and don't be afraid to sacrifice low, low, end. If you can hit a -3 of 35 loud be happy, I'd really not concern myself with anything below 40Hz. The waves hitting the hull will make uber low end moot, use efficient amps, the system will most likely be utilized the most with the engine off, battery wear and tear becomes an issue at this point.
> 
> You have a lot going against you, ambient noise, lots of it, not much room (efficiency goes up with size) and a limited source of power.... Godspeed *rice boy.*


Who is this nut bag and why does he keep popping up in my threads? 

One main complaint over the existing system is the lack up front both high and low end. What specs makes a woofer a good Marine woofer? Besides what they are made of?


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

For me I just say experience. It's just like in a car except no real loading factor.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Loudtaco said:


> For me I just say experience. It's just like in a car except no real loading factor.


And a LOT more ambient noise to overcome.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

I was actually thinking of loading a woofer in the storage compartment opposite the amplifier rack, but was afriad of the lack of cab gain.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

Do it just like this.








The subs boxes are mounted to the backside with the sub sandwiching the factory board. I've also done it with the sub just poking through a hole the same as the OD of the sub and then just screwed together.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Why not group them together and reap the benifits of the FREE GAIN from coupling?


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

chad said:


> Why not group them together and reap the benifits of the FREE GAIN from coupling?


 because there is no room; the hull of the boat starts to curve right around the healm.
Barely able to fit one ten and an enclosure. You can also use the left over area to mount the amps in the bow around the sub enclosure.


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I know how a boat is shaped, I just think there are better options than that space where the drivers could be grouped.


----------



## 6262ms3 (Feb 27, 2008)

I'd definitely avoid down-firing under the back seats, I did that in a boat with a single 10 sealed and the lack of breathing room in the back corner caused pressure to build up under the sub. The box would actually try to lift off the floor on sustained notes, which didn't make it very effective. Plus when at speed the motor would completely drown out the sub. I ended up moving it underneath the passenger-side dash, there was just enough room behind the panel on the underside of the dash. It was a noticeable improvement.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

I'm just a stickler for all things being symmetrical. I absolutely agree that if room allowed I would try to couple the subs but space is at such a premium allready. Plus as done in this pictured boat trust me no coupling was needed. Plus even if done under the backseat within say a foot of each other being completely exposed to the atmosphere would negate most of the benefits of coupling. I say just put it where it will work best on the particular boat. IMO


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Loudtaco said:


> I'm just a stickler for all things being symmetrical.


You too! My wife goes NUTS when it comes time to re-arrnage the house, she does not share our weakness.


----------



## Loudtaco (Dec 7, 2006)

Under the seat facing foward like this.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Ok it is a 1996 Capri Bayliner.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Bump this up I need acouple of sets of "Boatable"( word of the day) 6 1/2" speakers.


aswell as some sealed box requirements for the Rockford fosgate P2 woofers sealed. Also power requirements.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

polk momo or sony xplod. 75 watts per should do it.

what size sub?


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> polk momo or sony xplod. 75 watts per should do it.
> 
> what size sub?


10" woofers.


Would like to get something that is not the everyday stuff. But still affordable.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

good luck with that. you need something with a poly cone and tweeter. they're gonna get wet no way around that.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

May go with Cerwin vega amplifiers for power......need 1-2 4 ch amplifier as well as 1 amplifier for woofers. Anyone have any extras?Would like to be able to run about 3 10" RF P2 woofers one in the front and two in the rear. Need to see what kind of load i will be looking at.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

What about these POLKS....just need to see if these can be shiped together to save shipping and handling.

http://cgi.ebay.com/POLK-AUDIO-db65...ryZ18799QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## bigabe (May 1, 2007)

A friend of mine just put two DD3515s in his wakeboat. It's a monster enclosure (over 5.0 cubic feet)... but DAMN. The thing practically makes fish float to the surface dead. I've got to get a video of the ripples (more like waves) that come off the boat from the subwoofers.

It wasn't exactly a budget build, but I figured it was worth mentioning in here.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

bring on those DD pics.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

unpredictableacts said:


> What about these POLKS....just need to see if these can be shiped together to save shipping and handling.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/POLK-AUDIO-db65...ryZ18799QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


i'd do those for sure.


----------



## bigabe (May 1, 2007)

unpredictableacts said:


> bring on those DD pics.



I'll take a video camera up this weekend when my buddy takes the thing out.

It's a total basshead rig... but fun to gawk at.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Ok I need several pair now....have a fellow employee doing a install in his Cobalt as well.........



Looking at the Power series RF 2 ways....T162c

I think that might be the golden ticket.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

rf power series are loud and clear. they're my number one recomendation for anyone that wants a clean coaxial setup with above average sizzle in the treble. i've liked them in the 2 car setups i've heard them in and these involved a suburban with 4x6's in the dash and a phord truck with 6x8's.


----------



## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

I put some Focals in a friends boat. I also put 4 sets of Rockford Marine comp sets. I used a Soundstream 5 channel and ran the [email protected] ohms on 2 channels and the mids @ 8 ohms on the other two channels and the sub 2 ohm on the sub channel. I think in a boat you need to go for quantity over install. This boat burping its 454 open pipes make it hard to hear anything. The wind ads to that factor. The setup I used in this boat allows you to listen to the music cruising @ 70mph with the open pipes. Also the ouput on the water is different. I can take the same boat on land and crank it up and yes you can hear it. On the water it is louder and carries a very long distance. 

I think I gave $180 for 4 sets of the fosgate marine comps.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

8675309 said:


> I put some Focals in a friends boat. I also put 4 sets of Rockford Marine comp sets. I used a Soundstream 5 channel and ran the [email protected] ohms on 2 channels and the mids @ 8 ohms on the other two channels and the sub 2 ohm on the sub channel. I think in a boat you need to go for quantity over install. This boat burping its 454 open pipes make it hard to hear anything. The wind ads to that factor. The setup I used in this boat allows you to listen to the music cruising @ 70mph with the open pipes. Also the ouput on the water is different. I can take the same boat on land and crank it up and yes you can hear it. On the water it is louder and carries a very long distance.
> 
> I think I gave $180 for 4 sets of the fosgate marine comps.


i remember that install. and how many minutes can that thing run wide open on a full tank of gas (80 gallon i assume)?   

and someone can be bumping the system clear across the lake and that fisherman 5 miles away can hear it. there's nothing on water to stop the sound like there is land. like i said earlier in the thread a boat system WILL NOT SOUND GOOD like it would in a car so yeah output is first and foremost. sq shouldn't even be in the equation


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Yup I have decied to go with 4 pair of coaxials and 3 10" woofers or at least 2 woofers one in the front and one in the rear......These are the RF P2 woofers I have noticed that the plywood enclosure that they are in now(built by someone else) that they have a bad leak to them.


----------



## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Anyone a site to pick up the T162c at the better price......i need a site I can trust yet save the mula.


----------

