# 350Z Show Car SQ Build - Focal Utopia / Mosconi AS



## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Well.. It begins, shooting for completion March 2017, I work slow lol..

Worked out a deal with Brian Reimer Audio, the local Focal/Mosconi dealer I worked at many years ago and picked up what is essentially my dream system.

*HU:* Currently Pioneer DEH-80PRS (Likely to change, or be eliminated all together)
*Processor:* Mosconi 6To8V8
*Front Stage:* Focal Utopia BE No 7 Active
*Front Amps:* Mosconi AS 200.4 & 200.2
*Sub:* Focal 33KX (one for now, maybe add another)
*Sub Amp:* Mosconi AS 300.2

Here are a few shots of the car as it sits now:


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

First thing it to figure out how the hell I want layout these monster amps... They make my old Hertz HDP amps look like toys lol.

Me and a buddy spend a couple hours tonight tossing layout ideas around.

I'd love to hear some opinions on layouts!!

One of the big issues with this trunk is it is very deep... At shows I like to rope the car off so it doesn't get scratched. The bad part about this is people are kept a few feet away at a minimum. With my old false floor with the inverted 33KX from behind the ropes at a show you could barely see the top half of the sub, everything below that point was out of sight.


Option 1:

Single sub (or maybe two) would go inverted in the center.

Pros:
- Super clean and sexy looking. Love the continuity and from one amp to the next.
- I feel like this layout would photograph very well. Even my crappy iphone pics of just the amps sitting on the old false floor look amazing lol

Cons:
- Somewhat simple layout
- I feel like the area behind the two side amps between the amp and strut bar would be a bit awkward looking. 
- I still need to stuff a couple batteries under the floor as well, with the sub in the center the batteries would be tight.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Option two

This option would have some motorization. The two top amps would sit flat as in the first pic. They would be motorized to rotate open as seen in the second pic (I would likely normally stop at a 45 degree angle, but have the option to go the full 90 degrees).

The third amp would sit below, under the floor and would be exposed when the top amps rotate open. The third amp could potentially motorize up.

Below the false floor I would have a bunch of nicely done and detailed wiring and power distribution to show off.

I would have to also make some trim panels for the bottoms of the amps. Perhaps backlit logos or something like that.

I would also have to buy a second sub to satisfy my OCD symmetry requirement lol

Pros:
- Cool install with motorization
- Lots of space below floor for batteries, power distribution, etc.
- High equipment visibility because it's all mounted higher in the trunk

Cons:
- Amps look a bit awkward when at 90 degrees.
- More difficult and time consuming install (really not too concerned about that)
- Would have to buy another sub





Some side views


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Option three


Amps would sit together normally, then open in a V to show the amp below.

Would have to buy second sub for symmetry

Pros:
- Simple, clean.

Cons:
- Amps do not open very far which does not allow access to planned location for power distribution below floor.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

And a few more layouts we tried..


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

One thing I forgot to mention, is I would really really like to keep the area forward of the strut bar empty of audio. I do use the car regularly, daily drove it for work last year, and would still like to be able to travel with the car to some shows. So I would like to keep this area open for a few backpacks or whatever.


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

I just wanna see how this turns out!

Nice car. You've put a lot of work into it.
Fellow Canadian.


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## Bluenote (Aug 29, 2008)

i like no. 1 with the V-shape and inverted sub(s) in the middle. .02


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

350al said:


>


I like this one as far as layout goes, would look sweet with the one inverted sub in the center. With regards to motorization, it looks really cool the few seconds it is in motion, not so interesting when stationary (IMO).

Fantastic looking car - sure will follow this build!


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

Option 1 flows with the car better. Overall better symmetry. Once filler panels are done and add lighting will look killer


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## Sangha1891 (Feb 17, 2016)

I agree with mic10 first option looks great...clean great use of small space 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## basher8621 (Feb 21, 2009)

Option 1 but picture 2 of that option.


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## Sangha1891 (Feb 17, 2016)

I like the one where u have 2 amps on side one in middle back deck and I am assuming with sub will be in center facing down looks Hella clean I like 1 sub vs 2 look with that setup and it dosent look too bzy/messy to eye

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## firebirdude (Dec 24, 2009)

Another vote for option 1. The second picture, in which the large amps are pushed back a touch more than the first picture. Probably the easiest to install too.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I agree...option #1, but second picture. (Amps spread out further apart.)

Sweet car, and setup!


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## Sangha1891 (Feb 17, 2016)

Haha extended power right 2nd pic look better I didn't realize difference at first ya 2nd pic look cleaner 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I like this because out is different from most installs. Moving parts makes me happy. Lots of people do versions of the v style. The amps electronically flipping up 90° is pretty unique.


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## firebirdude (Dec 24, 2009)

Motorized amp racks still, after this long, STILL blow people away. So if this is strictly a show car, sure, I guess I could see it. But it doesn't garner any points from me. Option 1 is a clean layout, and like I said, probably the easiest to do anyway.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

I agree with Mic10is , the first one looks good, 2nd pic down tho 

Please keep the build page going. This should be a fun one to watch


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## beak81champ (Oct 2, 2015)

That is one gorgeous car bro!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

firebirdude said:


> Motorized amp racks still, after this long, STILL blow people away. So if this is strictly a show car, sure, I guess I could see it. But it doesn't garner any points from me. Option 1 is a clean layout, and like I said, probably the easiest to do anyway.



The motorized amp rack in this situation would have a purpose too besides just aesthetic. The amps would motorize open to allow access to the fuse panels and power distribution below.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

I looked at your various options and like option 1, picture 2 the most out them like many have said as well.

I do have one question though: Would heat dissipation be any issue at all with them in that position? I am in the midst of redesigning my entire system lay out with new amps and such, and this sort of gave me a new idea of new ways to design an amp rack. My current amps lie flat and the heat is no issue in that position, but they do take up some real estate so to say. I do use my car as a daily driver and hence why I am curious.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

sq2k1 said:


> I looked at your various options and like option 1, picture 2 the most out them like many have said as well.
> 
> I do have one question though: Would heat dissipation be any issue at all with them in that position? I am in the midst of redesigning my entire system lay out with new amps and such, and this sort of gave me a new idea of new ways to design an amp rack. My current amps lie flat and the heat is no issue in that position, but they do take up some real estate so to say. I do use my car as a daily driver and hence why I am curious.


I'm not sure if heat dissipation would be an issue... The heatsinks inside the amps are at the top in this orientation, there are also fans on them. I think it would probably be ok.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

So, I'm about 80% settled on the first option. I have to give credit to Colin at Brian Reimer Audio though, it was actually his layout idea not mine!

I spent a bit of time taking measurements in the trunk and playing with AutoCAD. I'm working on the trunk layout just getting everything to fit. This allows me to visualize the clearances needed for wiring, placement for batteries, sub box shape and size below the floor etc etc.

I know the drawings below probably don't make sense to anyone at all besides me, but here they are lol... They're nowhere near complete, but the idea is coming together.

I remember back when I was installing years ago I always had a hard time visualizing the finished design before I started and I would just kind of wing it as I went. This caused me to have to re-do some parts, or make changes as I went. I'm hoping this method will help me plan the build a bit better and reduce if not eliminate re-doing of things.

I actually drew up the previous trunk in AutoCAD before building it. It worked fairly well, I built the entire sub box and false floor without even having the car here, it was 2 hours away! Everything fit great yet. Kind of cool lol


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Some more autocad. I find it really helps me visualize how all the shapes will fit together without just cutting wood and seeing if it works...


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Base trunk piece and a couple mock-up batteries because I haven't bought the batteries yet.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)




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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Looks interesting...... I shall keep tabs on this out of curiosity. I like the way you used autocad to get a general idea for a plan of attack vs just going at it full steam without direction.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

I have to credit Simplicityinsound.. The idea for the trench (that's what I call it anyways) came from this thread:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-product-reviews-mosconi-gladen-illusion.html










I sized mine up quite a bit from the looks of it, but I also plan to run a bunch of wiring through it so it's visible and put my fusing in it so it is easily accessible.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

At this point everything's just sitting together, nothing is bolted in yet so the alignment everywhere isn't bang on..

I had a bit of time a couple nights ago and my impatience got the best of me. I wanted to see how the plexi looked with an LED string. The string is the wrong color, I'll be doing RGB and it's also too short, but the idea is there. There will be three runs of 0 gauge power wire run through this open channel that will be visible from above. If I can find fuse holders I like I'm thinking of locating the fuse holders in here as well.


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## PUREAUDIO (Jun 16, 2008)

NICE!!!!!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

A bit more progress over the weekend and tonight.

I used a ton of threaded inserts into the MDF and riv-nuts into the sheet metal of the car. No wood screws at all, everything uses a metric thread. Either M4 for most of the wood to wood and amp mounting and then M6 for mounting to the body of the car.

I need to go get some longer M6 screws for the stacks for the trenches tomorrow.

This is the two bases of the trenches. The two scraps of wood holding them together is just temporary to make things easier to work with. The amp back boards aren't bolted on yet in this pic.


Pulled out and stacked with the amps sitting on top.



Getting everything centered in the car before I bolt it onto the base plate and to the car.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Starting to assemble the stack with the amps bolted in. The top piece of the stack will bolt to the amp's back plates as well to help support them.


Top pieces in place, as well as the bottom part of the sub enclosure. The space to the rear of the sub enclosure is for two XS Power batteries which are unfortunately on backorder but should be in in a couple weeks. 


Loose fit without the amps:


I haven't cut angles on a table saw in probably 12 years, and I never was good at it before... Got this one perfect first try!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

This is now the bottom shape of the sub box. It will have the center cut open to the triangle box below. I'm still not sure what kind of shape I'm going to do building up from here, or if I'm going to go all MDF or fiberglass... I'll figure that out tomorrow.

The bottom part of the box hovers 3/4" above the top of the floor. I'll have RGB LEDs facing out in that gap to light it up. It will look like the box is hovering above the floor.




Notice I use a lot of parallel lines and equal gaps... I don't know, maybe I'm a bit OCD and it prevents me from doing non parallel lines and tapering gaps like I see in so many installs lol


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

This probably makes sense now lol


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

If anybody has any ideas on how to fill in the corners behind each amp and blend into the strut bar I'm all ears... Easy way would just be a flat piece of 3/4" off the back of the amp back plate, but that's too simple I think.... I'd like to blend them in to a smooth transition somehow.


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

That looks just awesome.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Cut out the pass through to the lower part of the sub enclosure, then started playing with sub mounting options.

I like inverted the best, but the enclosure would end up on the small side, around 0.7cuft because of the limited height available.

Not sure which option I'll go with yet.








I just feel it's a shame to hide the beautiful magnet on this sub, so I really want inverted.

Here is a potential compromise. I'd add a window in the back of the box to show the magnet.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

I also figured out how I'm going to bolt the 'trenches' together. Some M6x110mm screws will do.

I really didn't want any exposed hardware, so this is what I came up with. I countersunk a T-Nut in the top piece, then filled the hole with filler. I'm not sure if it will work when I go to take the bolt our or not, but it was worth a shot.

I also hit the top edge of the trench with a Sculpt bit from 12V Tools and opened it up to a nice smoothe opening.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

350al said:


> I also figured out how I'm going to bolt the 'trenches' together. Some M6x110mm screws will do.
> 
> I really didn't want any exposed hardware, so this is what I came up with. I countersunk a T-Nut in the top piece, then filled the hole with filler. I'm not sure if it will work when I go to take the bolt our or not, but it was worth a shot.
> 
> I also hit the top edge of the trench with a Sculpt bit from 12V Tools and opened it up to a nice smoothe opening.


So, good news the sunken T-Nuts seemed to have worked. I disassembled and reassembled the stack a few times and there is no evidence of cracking. I finished the panels by wrapping them, but I think you may even be able to get away painting them using this method.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

So, there was a show this weekend locally so I expedited finishing the trunk for it.

It was worth it, took home Overall Best In Show for my first time ever.




Trunk isn't 100%, I'm going to re-do the sub box top half, get some more volume, maybe some fiberglass and paint, not sure yet.

Also the LED strip around the base of the sub box doesn't put out nearly as much light as the ones that go through plexi, so I'm going to add a 1/4" plexi ring around the base of the sub box to focus the light a bit.

Then I'll be moving the wiring into the bottom of the trenches to show of some nice clean wiring.

And of course, I still have to get the Utopia BE's in the front end. I'll be taking the car on a ~3000km road trip in about a month, so I want the stereo to be 100% operational by then so I have some decent tunes.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

One more shot of the trunk from the show.



I've got it all pulled apart again for more modification lol


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## cmusic (Nov 16, 2006)

Wow!!!!


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## robolop (Mar 10, 2008)

My god that is awesome.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Thats clean and classy,good job


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

There is sooo much to like about this install and the car in general.


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

Speachless....


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

So awesome!

Do you have pictures of the front stage?


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

beautiful!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Thanks everyone!

I'm still not done.. That was a rush to finish for a show. I'm in the process of making some modifications to everything.

I got sponsored by Knukonceptz so I'm modifying the slots on either side to accommodate their fuse holders and show off some wiring. I'm a details oriented guy and kind of a techie, so I love showing off nice clean wiring. This was a plan from the beginning with this install, I just didn't have a wire supplier sorted out yet.



Basically I'm widening the slots at the bottoms to accommodate these combo fuse/distro blocks. One on each side (gotta maintain symmetry lol). 

I won't have access to lift the top cover off, but I can lift it high enough to slide it forward or backwards to access the fuses. This was one of the must-haves for the install; easily serviceable fusing. 









This is a view from the bottom when I started pre-wiring with the modified slots:



And then a view from inside the slot showing the shape of the modification to get the fuse holder to fit:



Shortly after these last two pics were taken I got frustrated and stopped. Basically I was having issues with the carbon fiber vinyl not sticking well to the MDF around certain contours as well as some imperfections in the plexi that nobody would notice but bother me. Initially I wanted to do mostly microfiber but it wouldn't stretch around some contours.

Project is currently on temporary pause while I make up my mind on how to proceed. I bought some real carbon fiber cloth and am going to be experimenting with that for a finish. Maybe a combination of that and microfiber.

I also need to finish the sub box properly and mount the sub on an angle higher so I can get some more volume.



EmptyKim said:


> So awesome!
> 
> Do you have pictures of the front stage?


Front stage is still not done.


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

This is still one of my favorite pics. I feel like the finished trunk once everything is covered hides a lot of the woodwork that went into everything..


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

Sweet! Would a vinyl primer help it stick to MDF?


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

EmptyKim said:


> Sweet! Would a vinyl primer help it stick to MDF?


I think the issue is the MDF is too porous of a surface for the adhesive of the vinyl to grab onto. I think even doing like a high build primer first might help it stick.. But honestly, I like the look and exotic feel of real CF better so my direction is really heading that way I think. 

I'd like to make some carbon fiber splitters for the side skirts and front bumper this winter too, so I would use matching carbon for that and for the stereo.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

350al said:


> I think the issue is the MDF is too porous of a surface for the adhesive of the vinyl to grab onto. I think even doing like a high build primer first might help it stick.. But honestly, I like the look and exotic feel of real CF better so my direction is really heading that way I think.
> 
> I'd like to make some carbon fiber splitters for the side skirts and front bumper this winter too, so I would use matching carbon for that and for the stereo.


I agree that real CF would be amazing! If you do stick with the CF wrap, a single clear coat sprayed on to the mdf (or any wood) increases the vinyls adhesion considerably, in my experience... 

Awesome build btw!


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## makaman (Sep 13, 2016)

very clean!!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

Car goes into winter storage this weekend. I found a nice size heated shop to keep it in, so I will be able to work on it over the winter.. WOO HOO!!! 

I picked up a second 33KX Subwoofer today and I think I'm going to re-do the entire trunk lol... I just like building stuff I guess..


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## juiceweazel (Jul 28, 2014)

Very nice. Sub'ed. Don't keep us in suspense for too long!


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## Bikerbrah (Dec 3, 2015)

KEEP US UPDATED!!


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## 350al (Jan 14, 2016)

I told myself I'd get lots of work done on the car over the winter... Haven't touched it since October when I parked it.

I'm undecided... I bought a second 33KX.. All sorts of ideas right now;

Keep this trunk and finish it..

Change up trunk to use two 33KX...

Add a second set of 6.5"s to the BE No 7s...

Change the AS 200.2 out to a 300.2 for more power to the front 6.5s...

I dunno :/


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