# FAST Rings... Worth It?



## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

I'm changing my front midbass to Audiofrog GB60's... and I've always wondered if FAST Rings are worth getting?

Or, are they just hype? Or, are they a total bunk scam?

In theory, they should be useful... But I'd like feedback from guys that have them installed.


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

jimmydee said:


> I'm changing my front midbass to Audiofrog GB60's... and I've always wondered if FAST Rings are worth getting?
> 
> Or, are they just hype? Or, are they a total bunk scam?
> 
> In theory, they should be useful... But I'd like feedback from guys that have them installed.


The idea is good. The FAST rings are just an example of poor implementation. The wrong material is used, and it is usually installed without matching the needed gap. 

My first comment is the material. I have tested it for water absorption and it does absorb water. The cellular structure is open enough. It's not like a sponge but it will hold water. This is a problem for the "plug" that goes inside. This plug is marketed as a sound absorber, of which it is also poor, but better than nothing at all.

My other material comment related to the cellular structure, it is too compressive and has no transmission loss - meaning it makes for a poor gasket. We want closed cell, dense materials for the gasket. 

My installation comment is due to the thickness. That large of a gap shouldn't exist. The thickness of the factory foam gasketing is an example of what you should need for thickness. This means that the speaker mount should be similar in depth to bring the gap within a 1/2 inch or less. Larger gaps shouldn't be filled with this type of foam because it is open in cellular structure and has almost no transmission loss so it is only slightly better than nothing at all but certainly not close to ideal. Another concern with the product thickness is that in smaller gaps it can fold in and put pressure on the surround which would cause the cone movement to be nonlinear and can cause coil rub. Installers should trim the foam to the appropriate death so it mates up with the door panel but doesn't fold in. Even with trimming, it's still not the right material.

A $3 roll of closed cell weatherstripping foam/rubber is far superior for this purpose. 

It is important for this gasket to be in place. It is a good idea and I'm happy to see installers using something where they may not have done this at all in the past, even though the materials were readily available. You need a good seal between the front of the speaker basket and the door panel because in a car the plastic door panel is the front of the speaker enclosure. But the material used to create that seal needs to be as dense as is reasonable while also allowing for a good airtight seal. When completed, if the panel is removed, there should be an indentation in the gasketing material. You will see this in the factory mount as well.


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

keep_hope_alive said:


> My other material comment related to the cellular structure, it is too compressive and has no transmission loss - meaning it makes for a poor gasket. We want closed cell, dense materials for the gasket.


That's what I was thinking. I've avoided buying these for years for this reason. Err, and the cost seems a bit extreme for what they are. Those little thin pieces of open-cell foam don't seem like they'd do anything at all to keep sound from passing right through them. Seems like there are far more appropriate materials for this application - like that thick closed-cell foam used for garage door seals. Or maybe even neoprene. But it seems like these would do little more than trap dirt. I know people swear by them, but I'm crying psychoacoustics. 

Surely someone here has tested their efficacy by now?


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

I use thick closed cell foam weatherstripping (Home Depot, approx $3-$4) and layer it to the desired depth I need. Works great! I may do some measurements soon. I don't have FAST rings to compare it with though.


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

How about the SoundSkins Rings? Has anyone had a chance to compare or use this product? Like the thread starter, I own Audiofrog GB60 and GB15 and was told the FAST rings are not worth the extra expense. I found these. Link below, any feedback? Waterproof CCF is the claim. Thanks

https://soundskinsglobal.com/pages/soundskins-rings


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## RRizz (Sep 4, 2012)

I used Armaflex pipe insulation. we get it in sheets for projects at work. cut to size, spray adhesive on the ends to create full circle. comes in different thicknesses as well. I used 1" which fit well where I needed it to. The tricky part was getting it cut to the proper depth, because the door card is not even throughout. I carefully used a thin wire, and inserted it through the door card grille at different points around the speaker mount, marked my measurements, and cut the armaflex to match the profile. Seems to work out well, and helped out with some vibrations.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

I would say the only thing you get with this is convience. once you screw down the driver. the compressed foam type shouldnt matter. if you have big enough gaps between the baffle and the driver that would need alot of gasket material, then do the baffle over.


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## mzmtg (Dec 8, 2009)

minbari said:


> I would say the only thing you get with this is convience. once you screw down the driver. the compressed foam type shouldnt matter. if you have big enough gaps between the baffle and the driver that would need alot of gasket material, then do the baffle over.


FAST rings (and others) go between the face of the driver and the innermost door panel, not between the speaker and its mounting baffle.


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

In essence... the only part of the kit I'm interested in, is the actual ring around the speaker (as shown above). 
The pieces that mount behind the speaker just seem like a water trap (which will eventually get soaked and fall into the bottom of your door).

I've ordered a set, and will update this post in a few weeks, when I get everything installed.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

mzmtg said:


> FAST rings (and others) go between the face of the driver and the innermost door panel, not between the speaker and its mounting baffle.


Ahhhhh. Totally worthless then.

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk


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## ajb1205 (Oct 17, 2016)

I installed FAST rings...but I got them cheap enough that if they didn't do anything then it didn't really matter.


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## 06gtmike (Sep 30, 2009)

mzmtg said:


> FAST rings (and others) go between the face of the driver and the innermost door panel, not between the speaker and its mounting baffle.


It’s 3 pieces, one of which goes between the speaker and baffle


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## ajb1205 (Oct 17, 2016)

^^^Exaclty^^^

https://www.google.ca/search?q=fast...IDSgE&biw=1920&bih=1094#imgrc=bOV22fWoTl-gyM:


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## Silvercoat (Dec 5, 2013)

I always wondered about the open cell foam part of this. Not a HUGE deal for the interface between front of speaker and door, but to me that's a huge NONO for the back wave absorption in the door. I see it holding water and rotting over time. Closed cell foam or gtfo.

Also....... used to have these for the back wave issue. What happend to these lovely things.


https://www.crutchfield.com/S-bm8W4...at-Dynaxorb-Speaker-kit-two-6-x-6-sheets.html


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## LostnEye (Feb 18, 2016)

Niebur3 said:


> I use thick closed cell foam weatherstripping (Home Depot, approx $3-$4) and layer it to the desired depth I need. Works great! I may do some measurements soon. I don't have FAST rings to compare it with though.


I've used the cheap hardware store CCF in the past with good results and FAST rings with not so good results. Current car had HAT L6v1s and FAST rings in fully deadened doors, swapped for GB60s and closed cell foam(I forget what Skizer used but it wasn't the hardware store stuff I have used in other installs) and noticeably less resonance.


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## quickaudi07 (May 19, 2010)

I used fast rings in my TL, the one part that goes on the inside of the doors was soaked wet and it hold water and moister. if you going to do it, do the front only and not worry about the back... as other user mention, go to HD and get yourself your own stuff and make the kit for few $ vs 20-30$


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I used 2 coats of scotchguard on the center piece that goes to the outer skin.My outer ring just touches the door grill.


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## gumbeelee (Jan 3, 2011)

I have used them for years and never had any problens and excellent results. They absolutely work imho. (Also let ne clarify I only used tge front soundskin, and ccf on the back)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I switched from weatherstripping to fast rings and I am going to go back. The fast rings material feels cheap and ineffective. Better than nothing,? Yes. Better than dense weatherstripping? No. If you buy the 1 1/4 you can slice it down the middle and have double. My favorite was end closure foam for metal roofs but it attached itself permanently to my inner door panel making it difficult to be a constant swapper!


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## vet883 (Feb 12, 2017)

Was thinking about buying fast rings for a while , then I found a pair of 8 inch xtc speaker pouches in the garage. I cut both ends off, stapled them to my met spacer rings and trimmed to fit depth of door card. Dramatic difference in noise and buzz reduction from cd’s and objects I keep in my door pockets. Minor gain in midbass definition.


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## vet883 (Feb 12, 2017)

Correction m d f spacer rings


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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

Silvercoat said:


> I always wondered about the open cell foam part of this. Not a HUGE deal for the interface between front of speaker and door, but to me that's a huge NONO for the back wave absorption in the door. I see it holding water and rotting over time. Closed cell foam or gtfo.
> 
> Also....... used to have these for the back wave issue. What happend to these lovely things.
> 
> ...


You can still find them on Amazon. There also the Speaker Tweakers from Second Skin Audio to consider:

Speaker Tweaker Set (Anechoic Pads) - * Free shipping in USA * - Second Skin Audio


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

I've been using foam weatherstripping for over a decade. The open nature of the FAST rings is why they make a poor front gasket. We all know they are for sealing to the door panel, but that is just one of the three gaskets needed:










You can see the indent of the factory door panel in this foam:









before:










Some other examples using thinner or thicker foams:


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

Hmm,this threads got me thinking of a different method now.How about a piece of PVC pipe wrapped in MLV? I mean for situations where there is a 1-2 inch gap between speaker face and door grill.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

With the purpose of these FAST rings being to create a 'tunnel' that will direct the sound out through the door card and in to the car's cabin, making sure sound won't be trapped between the plastic door card and the metal door face where the driver mounts. For this task you'd want a material that isn't necessarily designed to absorb but more to block and therefore direct the sound outward. In which case, I'm not sure why people don't use stacked rings of hdpe/mdf/etc to make the 'tunnel'. Then maybe put a small strip of gasket tape at the end to make sure the seal from the tunnel to the door card is airtight.

Now, sure, we can get tricky with it. You can worry about reflections from the harder material but unless you're using the door driver very high and/or the depth of the tunnel is extremely deep (deeper than would even be logical for a door card/door metal gap to be) it’s most likely a wash. I suppose if you were really concerned about it, you could line the tunnel with a layer of absorption material to capture any high frequencies bouncing around. For example, if you were using a standard 6.5" driver and crossing it at 3khz (a bit high but works for this example) you could take some 1/8" open cell foam and line the tunnel with it, helping to absorb the frequencies above your crossover point. I'm not sure this is necessary but it's a thought.

I dunno… just my $0.02.


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

I agree that first building a proper baffle that gets as close as possible to the plastic grille is the best way.Question I have for those using weatherstripping to polish off the small gap left.....Do you adhere the stuff directly to the top of the driver basically covering the screw heads or do you make the rings wider and adhere the stripping around the perimeter?I would think the latter would be cleaner if you have the space available.


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## FlyingEagle (Sep 22, 2017)

JH1973 said:


> I agree that first building a proper baffle that gets as close as possible to the plastic grille is the best way.Question I have for those using weatherstripping to polish off the small gap left.....Do you adhere the stuff directly to the top of the driver basically covering the screw heads or do you make the rings wider and adhere the stripping around the perimeter?I would think the latter would be cleaner if you have the space available.


Outside the outer ring (past the screw heads, rubber surround sealing area) of the speaker metal frame, essentially, yes. You could technically pull the speaker right through the foam ring, for removal of the unit.

Many speakers I pull to diagnose something, have the foam and plastic outer baffle (also using foam to seal to the door card) built into the speaker design.


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

Yeah normally I see the foam on/around the speaker OE-style. However I don't think there is anything wrong adding it on the door card/panel. But we really should over-do it and put it on both the speaker and door card diyma-style!!


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## LostnEye (Feb 18, 2016)

ErinH said:


> I'm not sure why people don't use stacked rings of hdpe/mdf/etc to make the 'tunnel'. Then maybe put a small strip of gasket tape at the end to make sure the seal from the tunnel to the door card is airtight.


I think the biggest reason you don't really see this is plenty of door cards I've seen are not flat and it's just easier to have the foam compress to the contours of the door panel than have to trim a rigid material tunnel to fit.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

LostnEye said:


> I think the biggest reason you don't really see this is plenty of door cards I've seen are not flat and it's just easier to have the foam compress to the contours of the door panel than have to trim a rigid material tunnel to fit.


I understand that. My sentence was more about "_given the purpose of the rings, _I'm not sure why ...".


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

https://youtu.be/x9bGz5DWrcU

Has anyone used these.. waterproof CCF


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

ChaseUTB said:


> https://youtu.be/x9bGz5DWrcU
> 
> Has anyone used these.. waterproof CCF


Absurd amount of money for what they are

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

SkizeR said:


> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> > https://youtu.be/x9bGz5DWrcU
> ...


Dire che come è Nicholas


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> ChaseUTB said:
> 
> 
> > https://youtu.be/x9bGz5DWrcU
> ...


They are $24 a set. A set includes 4 6.5” rings, 2 back wave absorber for mid bass, plus the 2 adapter rings from 6 “ all the way down to .5” for mids and tweeters, sealing speaker mounting rings to door panel and speaker to door card.

One $25 set can do 3 way active front easily. 

My other option is $80 focal Blackhole tiles over CLD in the outer door panel. Was going to try soundskins Pro for CLD plus CCF In one then thought hey I could save some coin by going with the SoundSkin rings considering they will eliminate back wave just like the Blackhole are positioned to do..


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

ErinH said:


> With the purpose of these FAST rings being to create a 'tunnel' that will direct the sound out through the door card and in to the car's cabin, making sure sound won't be trapped between the plastic door card and the metal door face where the driver mounts. For this task you'd want a material that isn't necessarily designed to absorb but more to block and therefore direct the sound outward. In which case, I'm not sure why people don't use stacked rings of hdpe/mdf/etc to make the 'tunnel'. Then maybe put a small strip of gasket tape at the end to make sure the seal from the tunnel to the door card is airtight.
> 
> Now, sure, we can get tricky with it. You can worry about reflections from the harder material but unless you're using the door driver very high and/or the depth of the tunnel is extremely deep (deeper than would even be logical for a door card/door metal gap to be) it’s most likely a wash. I suppose if you were really concerned about it, you could line the tunnel with a layer of absorption material to capture any high frequencies bouncing around. For example, if you were using a standard 6.5" driver and crossing it at 3khz (a bit high but works for this example) you could take some 1/8" open cell foam and line the tunnel with it, helping to absorb the frequencies above your crossover point. I'm not sure this is necessary but it's a thought.
> 
> I dunno… just my $0.02.




This sound the absolute best idea I have seen period. So let me ask this instead of making a tube essentially from the driver to the door panel inner face would it be better to just bring the driver as close as you can to the panel then use weather stripping to finish off the last 1/4-1/2"?


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

^bring it to 0 (zero) or as close and then add the foam... (not 1/4 or 1/2" away... this is for low cost installers!!)


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## impulse (Jul 5, 2014)

SkizeR said:


> Absurd amount of money for what they are
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


If you had a manufacturer make 100 of them for you, it would cost you $18 each. So I guess a $6 premium isn't bad. While other stuff may work too like weather stripping, at least it's something on the market that gets more people to use something which is better than nothing. It's something needed that has been missing in the market forever.

heres the patent on it: https://patents.google.com/patent/US8739921


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## vet883 (Feb 12, 2017)

Some door card designs don’t allow coming that close. My 8 inch midbass is spaced out on two 3/4 inch mdf rings. And the are still 2 inches from the speaker grille in the door card.three spacers stopped the door card from going back on because the panel has to lift straight up off of large plastic hooks. So some foam works for my application. My wife’s nx 200t , the door card pulls straight inward, I can bring the speaker right up to the door card .i like Erin’s idea of stacking rings in front of th speaker and lining them. If I was willing to cut up my door card I would do that.just gotta say just saw my buddy Phil Nicoletti win his first supercross race on tv awesome


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

impulse said:


> If you had a manufacturer make 100 of them for you, it would cost you $18 each. So I guess a $6 premium isn't bad. While other stuff may work too like weather stripping, at least it's something on the market that gets more people to use something which is better than nothing. It's something needed that has been missing in the market forever.
> 
> heres the patent on it: https://patents.google.com/patent/US8739921


Hmm. Looks like prices dropped

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

diy.phil said:


> ^bring it to 0 (zero) or as close and then add the foam... (not 1/4 or 1/2" away... this is for low cost installers!!)


So just build anothe MDF ring to bring it out closer to the inside of the door panel essentially?


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## diy.phil (May 23, 2011)

@Redliner99, yes that's the idea! Add another ring at the back of the speaker. It can be any solid material (wood or synthetic).


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

I will probably have to go with Focal Blackhole tile for outer door skin and not the soundskin rings. I really wanted to try the Soundskin rings but there is a bar that runs through the outer door skin so SS rings backwave absorber would not have a flat surface to adhere to. Thinking of using 4/6 tiles to break up standing/ back waves.


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

impulse said:


> SkizeR said:
> 
> 
> > Absurd amount of money for what they are
> ...


I think they are priced fair and an awesome idea. Also cheaper and better quality than Fast Rings.
In all literature the SS rings are described as you CCF and water proof however the patent says open foam? ( maybe they are speaking on the physical design ) 

I have been talking with SS global/ USA regarding SS Pro, and more than likely will be choosing the product for my Sound Deadening ? It’s Like the Focal Bam/ Stinger Ultimate but actually states the thicknesses of each layer used. Plus Focal Bam And Ultimate is wayyyy too much $$$ And never goes on sale ?‍♂ I read Stinger used to distribute some SoundSkins Products, odd how they basically copied the Pro product with Roadkill Ultimate ?


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

keep_hope_alive said:


> I've been using foam weatherstripping for over a decade. The open nature of the FAST rings is why they make a poor front gasket. We all know they are for sealing to the door panel, but that is just one of the three gaskets needed:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Can you post a link to the weather stripping you have been using with the most luck?


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Redliner99 said:


> Can you post a link to the weather stripping you have been using with the most luck?


Any CCF weather stripping will work. It is available at all hardware stores in various widths and thicknesses with a strong psi backing. The darker grey/black foams are usually CCF...you can tell by how much they do NOT compress when you pinch them, certainly as compared to the lighter grey or white OCF weather stripping.

Choose the size(s) that will work for your install. You can also stack them using the peel n stick adhesive backing.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

seafish said:


> Any CCF weather stripping will work. It is available at all hardware stores in various widths and thicknesses with a strong psi backing. The darker grey/black foams are usually CCF...you can tell by how much they do NOT compress when you pinch them, certainly as compared to the lighter grey or white OCF weather stripping.
> 
> Choose the size(s) that will work for your install. You can also stack them using the peel n stick adhesive backing.


Awesome thank you.


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

jimmydee said:


> I'm changing my front midbass to Audiofrog GB60's... and I've always wondered if FAST Rings are worth getting?
> 
> Or, are they just hype? Or, are they a total bunk scam?
> 
> In theory, they should be useful... But I'd like feedback from guys that have them installed.


Ok... so here's an update;
I ordered a couple sets of FAST Rings, for my front and rear doors (6.5").

1. They are ridiculously expensive, for a chunk of foam cut in a circle.
2. I didn't notice ANY difference in sound, whatsoever, after installing them.
3. I'll never buy them again...


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Now try some sort of closed cell foam and let us know if you notice a difference 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

If you compete in SQL you may benefit a bit, every tiny mod counts for a fraction of a point if you are lucky. 
As mentioned most doors cards are not flat with grills these days, only the flat ones can benefit, I tend to lean over CCF, the OCF may help with some resonances or some unwanted frequencies, but the CCF may offer higher spl reducing sound that could be trapped between the door card and the inner door. CCF does not absorb, reflect or affects sound in any way from what I read, unless a 3" thick piece is put directly against the cone of a midbass or sub restrict air movement.

This place has a big load of foams of all kinds and maybe, you can build your own even if you use glue or aluminum tape to make a big ring. 

I would tread those FAST rings with scotchgard if not the inside maybe the outside area to prevent water absorption 
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-closed-cell-foam-sheets/=15blrx4


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## ChaseUTB (Mar 28, 2018)

jimmydee said:


> jimmydee said:
> 
> 
> > I'm changing my front midbass to Audiofrog GB60's... and I've always wondered if FAST Rings are worth getting?
> ...


Thanks for the update and review.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

diy.phil said:


> @Redliner99, yes that's the idea! Add another ring at the back of the speaker. It can be any solid material (wood or synthetic).


Finally made it to Home Depot today is this the weather stripping your referring to? https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...ty-PVC-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-02311/100166566


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Redliner99 said:


> Finally made it to Home Depot today is this the weather stripping your referring to? https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...ty-PVC-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-02311/100166566


that should work


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

SkizeR said:


> that should work


Sweet thank you!


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## credible (Sep 1, 2014)

I have a 2013 Dodge Dart and what with still being fairly new to all this I realized what a gap there is between the speaker and the door.

Bought four pairs of wooden extenders and going to try ErinH' s idea.


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## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

I used the fast rings, didn't notice any difference to my ear.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

I used fast rings also but next go around I will surely use weather stripping as it seems to have the same benefits and its a hell of a lot cheaper.


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## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

The fast ring is MUCH easier to work with. The weatherstripping only comes in 3/4" whereas the fast ring is 2". I used all 2" of thickness. Stacking the weatherstripping was annoying. I got the fast rings from walmart for under $20


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Well good point made but I paid like 25+ for mine from a local stereo shop. Was not aware walmart even carried them but then again it may be in your area where as it may not be in mine.... I'd have to check.

I also did not like the foam supposedly used for mounting behind the speaker on the door for cancellation as it just seemed that would act as a sponge for water if it were to get in the area. If they just sold the front rings separately, I would be content with that.


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## GMCtrk (Apr 14, 2018)

I only used the ring. The other pieces were thrown away. Door was done with dynamat extreme.


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## sq2k1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Pretty much the same scenario as myself GMCtrk..... Just seems like a lot of waste when I think about it.


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## OneGun (Jun 15, 2018)

I'm glad I saw this thread. I have a set of fast rings that I have yet to install but after reading the reviews/discussions here, I don't even know if I will. 

When ordered/received them, I decided that I was only going to use the outer rings that act as a "tunnel". The idea of sicking a foam circle inside my door just seemed stupid as I was certain it would just get water logged. 

As for using the foam as a speaker gasket, I have already been using weather strip type material from HD and other online retailers. I didn't think it was a good idea to use it in that way either. 

But now I'm not even sure I'll use the outer ring/tunnel thing. I guess, though, since I have it I might as well use it. 


Anyway, I was reading this thread last night on my phone when I was doing my workout in my basement weight room and realized that I was literally standing on a possible material that could be useful for some car audio applications... High Density Foam Flooring (see pics below). 

I don't know if this is CCF, technically, or whatever, but I know it's pretty tough stuff that can take a lot of abuse and can be obtained pretty cheap nowadays (Walmart and Habor Freight I've seen the cheapest). 

I'm wondering if I can use it in speaker mounting applications as well as in possible sound deadening applications. 

Worst case scenario I try it and it doesn't work... a scenario I'm quite familiar with. 

Anyway, just wanted to bring this up in case anyone has any interest/info.

High Density Foam Flooring:


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

The vast majority of what people do to try and enhance speaker performance is...I'm not going to say a waste of time but it's VERY overrated.Using a good amount of CLD I have found is where the vast majority of the performance is.Everything else just makes the slightest difference,especially sealing door holes off.That is theeee most overrated aspect of car audio in my opinion.Using CCF to eliminate or lower panel to panel vibration can be useful as well.


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## Evl5150 (Jun 20, 2018)

I use the FAST rings in my `95 Grand Cherokee. The difference is there for sure. What they will not do is make your speakers sound like you are going from Boss coaxials to Scanspeak components. Lower midbass was kind of thin... it was there but it was thin. With just the rings the lower midbass is more full. I don't know if I can say louder but more full for sure.

My rings are trimmed down to barely let the door panel go back on which compresses the rings by about half their height... I am pretty sure this is closing those open cells everyone is talking about. I did not used the plug or the rear ring.


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## geartech (Nov 23, 2017)

I'm pulling my fast rings, wish I had read more about them before buying and installing it. Looked like a really good idea at the time. 
So out comes the FAST rings and I'm going to put in some closed cell foam for the door panel seal and rework the door skin dampening. 

Ran across this stuff on amazon as well, Wonder how it would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-X10...rds=closed+cell+weather+stripping+foam/rubber.

Its a little pricey for what it is but not terrible compared to what I have invested in everything else


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## Gramps (Jul 10, 2018)

So i have no intentions on using the fast rings, heck I didn’t even know they existed, just clicked on the thread for something to read thb, lol
Anyways, i was thinking about the custom made door pods i will be making for my install, will the cavity behind the actual speaker inside the door pod trap/reflect anything before it gets into the actual door cavity, and if so would making a tube to seal off the inside of the door pod cavity be worth while?? 
I’m sorry if my explanation isn’t very good, I don’t explain stuff real good, but i know what i mean!! Lol

Also, with the part of the fast rings that go behind the speaker to stop the so called standing waves?? (Is that what they are called), how does this differ from a subwoofer box lined or filled with polyester filler, as I’ve read the debate about that on the forum, and a lot of ppl say its just crap!!
I always thought it was better to have an angled type of baffle behind the speaker to deflect the rear waves so they didn’t bounce directly back into the rear of the speaker??

Krem


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## Gramps (Jul 10, 2018)

Sorry for 2 posts in a row, but i just thought of an easy way to layer the weather stripping and also maybe add some strength to it.
Once again, i struggle with explaining stuff, so pls bear with me

Get a piece of pvc pipe, cup, bowl,anything really roughly the same size as the inside of the ring you want to make, then use that as a guide to layer the stripping around, 

If your layering 2 or more high, some metal welding wire of around 1mm or a coat hanger cut into small bars impaled thru at intervals around the ring could help add strength maybe??

Dunno, just a thought, or maybe my painkiller for my neck and back might be working too well tonight
Krem


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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

In regards to the back wave portion. As mentioned earlier FAST Rings are a big no no due to the open cell foam and the door environment.

So what did I try?

Second Skin Speaker Tweaker, SoundSkin Speaker Ring Absorber, and Dynabsorb pad.

Yes all 3. Didn’t notice any dicernable difference although it could be that I’m not running my midbass (70-500hz) up to a high enough frequency to warrant a noticeable effect.


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## OneGun (Jun 15, 2018)

Funny this thread got bumped today. As usual, I was in the garage tonight with a door panel off and remembered I had these in my box of audio junk, so I stuck the outer ring on the outside of my door woofer. Looked kinda nice, I guess... almost looks like it would do some good, but who knows. 

Took a little ride after everything was put back together, didn't notice any better or worse sound. I could have just set fire to two $20 bills and got the same results.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

I am NOT sure how thick that foam is, but it looks to be approximately 1"...PLEASE correct me if I am wrong.

But if it is in fact only 1" thick, then it will only be effective at helping to adsorb frequencies at best 3000hz and above.  ... which means it should be used only behind a tweeter install... if at all!!!

Just my .02, but of course you are free to burn your $20 however you wish...LOL


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## thornygravy (May 28, 2016)

I'm a fan of the outer ring. The other two go in the trash. 

I keep seeing people say "I just use weather stripping". I agree ccf is better but.. let's see pics!


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## Bnlcmbcar (Aug 23, 2016)

In front is an example of the SoundSkin CCF Ring product (only bought to try out the back wave absorber that came with it.)

I theorized that stacking material might be able to help absorb backwaves of midbass region: 

1” 703 Corning for whole outer skin then directly behind the woofer I stacked the 3 different backwave products (SecondSkin, SoundSkin,Dynabsorb) hoping the combined thickness would justify the attemp to mitigate midbass region standing backwaves.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I would highly suggest taking a look at Chris Purdue's (aka TooStubborn2Fail) post in the Inexpensive Car Audio: Sound Quality Facebook group from March 16, 2018. He covers a lot bout the CLD testing he has done, but later in the thread gets into some more recent testing on various products intended to treat back waves, etc. Definitely worth a look.


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## karmajack (May 9, 2017)

thornygravy said:


> I'm a fan of the outer ring. The other two go in the trash.
> 
> I keep seeing people say "I just use weather stripping". I agree ccf is better but.. let's see pics!


This is 3/8-in H x 1-1/4-in W Adhesive backed CCF Weatherstrip I got from Lowes. Ten foot roll for 8 bucks. Enough to do four 6.5" speakers.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

karmajack said:


> This is 3/8-in H x 1-1/4-in W Adhesive backed CCF Weatherstrip I got from Lowes. Ten foot roll for 8 bucks. Enough to do four 6.5" speakers.


Do you have a link to that?


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## JH1973 (Apr 21, 2017)

karmajack said:


> thornygravy said:
> 
> 
> > I'm a fan of the outer ring. The other two go in the trash.
> ...


Very similar to the stuff I used recently.But I lined the inner adhesive part with some leftover CCF from a fast ring kit I had.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Redliner99 said:


> Do you have a link to that?


It is in his previous post. 



karmajack said:


> This is 3/8-in H x 1-1/4-in W Adhesive backed CCF *JUST CLICK HERE>>>*Weatherstrip I got from Lowes.*<<<JUST CLICK HERE* Ten foot roll for 8 bucks. Enough to do four 6.5" speakers.


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

It's ******* AF but I've used the softer/high expansion Great Stuff for a similar purpose and it worked well. Make sure to mask off what you don't want covered. It's nice because you can trim away what you don't need.


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## John-117 (Jan 20, 2019)

Weatherstrip at the hardware shop can save you money too.


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## K-pop sucks (May 28, 2018)

I ripped my fast rings out this afternoon. I couldn't hear a difference or a measurable difference. Which makes sense because they are just open cell foam.

I guess the best option is kick panels or dash pods.


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## Nas222PTB (Jun 24, 2020)

keep_hope_alive said:


> The idea is good. The FAST rings are just an example of poor implementation. The wrong material is used, and it is usually installed without matching the needed gap.
> 
> My first comment is the material. I have tested it for water absorption and it does absorb water. The cellular structure is open enough. It's not like a sponge but it will hold water. This is a problem for the "plug" that goes inside. This plug is marketed as a sound absorber, of which it is also poor, but better than nothing at all.
> 
> ...


 I am just coming across this post and I was battling with myself on purchasing these. While it makes sense to close the gap in the assembly... I just can't bring myself to pay $20-30 for the same foam you can buy at home depot for under $5, minus adhesive. They actually have a better material and as you said too, would be better for this application and you can even get it at Walmart... closed cell window foam or ac foam and another of them have adhesive. I actually bought a few types and will be testing them out. Hopefully I'll remember to post results... or opinion. If anyone has any other input or advice for newbies please feel free to school.


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

@Nas222PTB any updates?


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

anyone try a sheet of neorpene closed cell foam like this for their adapter ring sealing (door sheet metal to adapter and adapter to speaker):









CCNS Rubber-Neoprene sponge 1/8''x12''x12'' Self-Adhesive | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CCNS Rubber-Neoprene sponge 1/8''x12''x12'' Self-Adhesive at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

I've been using closed cell weatherstripping (<$5 roll) for over 15 years. Choose width and thickness based on your needs. Includes a good adhesive. Super easy to install.

I use a gasketing in 3 locations when the speaker is mounted to a baffle: baffle rear to door, speaker rear to baffle, speaker front to door panel. FAST rings does just one of the three. 

If you secure the speaker directly to door metal, and you have a huge gap between the speaker and the door panel, then the use of FAST rings is fine since the whole setup is sub-par anyway. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## steelwindmachine (May 15, 2017)

@keep_hope_alive I wasn't intended to use Fast Rings since they've shown to be a poor product for the intended application.

I am intending to seal the adapter to the door metal and speaker to adapter with some kind of CCF and then use a thicker CCF to seal between the face of the adapter and the inside of the door panel.

I can't go to the store because of the pandemic. So, I need to source these things for delivery.


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

steelwindmachine said:


> @keep_hope_alive I wasn't intended to use Fast Rings since they've shown to be a poor product for the intended application.
> 
> I am intending to seal the adapter to the door metal and speaker to adapter with some kind of CCF and then use a thicker CCF to seal between the face of the adapter and the inside of the door panel.
> 
> I can't go to the store because of the pandemic. So, I need to source these things for delivery.


Bummer, we've had stores open the entire time in IL.
Amazon has:
Frost King Rubber Foam Weatherseal

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

Anyone try these yet? 









Amazon.com: NVX XBAF65 Foldable Silicone 6.5" Speaker Baffle with Egg Crate Foam, one Pair/Box : Electronics


Buy NVX XBAF65 Foldable Silicone 6.5" Speaker Baffle with Egg Crate Foam, one Pair/Box: Coaxial Speakers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## MythosDreamLab (Nov 28, 2020)

I have Fast Rings around my 4 Utopia 6.5 woofers in my front & back doors and the seem to sound fine, had them installed at the same time as my deadening, so I don't have a specific "before -n-after" comparison...!


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

I use the 6x9 versions and I really like them. They actually do (3) things in one product:

1. They protect the back of the speaker from water that may get into the door panel
2. They provide a silicone "seat" between the speaker and the mounting surface (stops any potential rattles)
3. They also provide a "seal" between the front of the speaker and the door panel

I used to use fast-ring-like products for the front of the speaker, to help seal them against the door panel, but with my setup, I actually have to put the rings on the speaker face itself - and once you put them there, you can't really take them off and re-use them - so if you change speakers, you need another set of rings. With these things, you can easily re-use them when changing speakers.

You do have to cut the back of them or else they are too restrictive. Basically, I cut to size and also cut the bottom half off to let the speaker breath properly. I just need the top half to act as a "roof" for the speaker to protect it from any water that gets into the door - and they work perfectly for that.


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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

That’s what i was thinking. No worries about getting water logged and they really aren’t that expensive.


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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

Did you use that egg create that comes with them? That parts still a little sketchy but the rest of it i like.


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

clange2485 said:


> Anyone try these yet?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those are legit.

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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

clange2485 said:


> Did you use that egg create that comes with them? That parts still a little sketchy but the rest of it i like.


It's a cheesy and neary ineffective attempt at sound absorption. I build my own waterproof sound absorption for inside doors that does wonders.

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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

I actually did stick the egg-crate thing on top of the CLD on the outside door skin (right behind the speaker). No idea if it does anything, but I don't think it can hurt anything either. I mean it is CCF, so it's not like it's going to absorb water like an open-cell foam would.


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## glockcoma (Dec 22, 2015)

keep_hope_alive said:


> It's a cheesy and neary ineffective attempt at sound absorption. I build my own waterproof sound absorption for inside doors that does wonders.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


R-19 insulation in sealed bags?


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## clange2485 (Dec 10, 2020)

keep_hope_alive said:


> It's a cheesy and neary ineffective attempt at sound absorption. I build my own waterproof sound absorption for inside doors that does wonders.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
> [/QUOTE
> ...


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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

My solution for automotive doors:





Other products:






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## keep_hope_alive (Jan 4, 2009)

glockcoma said:


> R-19 insulation in sealed bags?


12 years ago, yea. Since 2010 I've been using rigid panels.

And since then most mfr have started putting sound absorption in door cavities. Using what looks like polyester "polyfill" in a casing. 

I started doing it after seeing the same approach used in commercial buildings.
"CMA – Creative Materials for Acoustics – Encapsulated Pads and Rolls" CMA – Creative Materials for Acoustics – Encapsulated Pads and Rolls


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