# JBL Fuse compact 8" Under seat subwoofers - Passive, not active



## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

I just came across these compact 8" enclosed subwoofers from JBL/Harmon and was so entrigued I bought a pair for under seat midbass. They are "subwoofers" not a true midbass/midwoofer like I was looking to put under my seats but basically I can only fit shallow 6.5" mids in my doors so while my doors sound great with vocals,they lack lower midbass and i needed something to bring the bass up front from my subwoofer in the trunk. So if these only play low, I'm ok with that. And honestly I think being 8" slim woofers, they are probably better suited for midbass than sub bass anyways.

Ive been working the last couple days trying to build custom wooden enclosures under my seats for a MB Quart shallow sub woofer with a 2.5" mounting depth. I built the box as shallow as possible while still fitting the subwoofer... I was using only 1/3" plywood and I could not get the enclosure under my seat without hitting the bottom of the seat. Basically ive come to the conclusion that the only drivers i could fit under my seats with accounting for 1" of plywood and excursion is the morel power-slims which only come in 6" or maybe a Audio Development w800 neo but the w800s are expensive and it would be pretty close size wise to risk wasting that much money and then they dont fit.

So i decided to look into one of those pre fab Active under seat subwoofers from kicker, rockford, pioneer, etc. that are made out of plastic or metal and are only about 3" tall. Problem is, they are all active and I don't want a powered under seat subwoofer. I want to use my own amplifier and just run speaker wire from my amps in my trunk. Well these JBL are the first ones I've seen that are PASSIVE, so i can just run a couple speaker wires from my amps in my trunk and Viola. They just introduced these at CES 2019 and i see zero reviews on them online. They are made out of ABS and have a 8" subwoofer plus a passive radiator in each one. They can be attached together for a dual 8" enclosure or separated. I'm not sure how these will perform but I will update everyone here with some further information when I get them hooked up in about a week. 

If anyone on here has used these or heard them I would like to hear what your thoughts were. They don't look like they will produce monster mid-bass, but I also don't think being from Harmon they will be garbage. I watched a YouTube video from CES and Harmon says they are 7db louder than one of their best selling sub woofers (but they did not say what model) and produce a significant amount of bass for their size.










JBL Fuse


Pair of dockable sealed 8" sub enclosures




www.crutchfield.com


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## Nan00k (Apr 4, 2014)

interested to see how you go with these!


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Interesting. Should be good being jbl


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## Focused4door (Aug 15, 2015)

To really make good use of under seat space you really need to fiberglass, just not practical to use wood due to thickness and inability to follow contours of the floor and seat pan. Maybe you could get away with a lot of small thin pieces of wood glued together, but considering the time that would take might as well fiberglass.

For that kind of money I would take a long hard look at something like the Dayton Audio ND91 and fiberglass up an enclosure. If it is under the seat it won't have to be pretty, just structurally sound and stiff.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

Focused4door said:


> To really make good use of under seat space you really need to fiberglass, just not practical to use wood due to thickness and inability to follow contours of the floor and seat pan. Maybe you could get away with a lot of small thin pieces of wood glued together, but considering the time that would take might as well fiberglass.
> 
> For that kind of money I would take a long hard look at something like the Dayton Audio ND91 and fiberglass up an enclosure. If it is under the seat it won't have to be pretty, just structurally sound and stiff.



Yes, there is one big curve plus smaller more subtle ones in my floorboard. I basically glued two pieces of wood together to account for the about 1/3" offset. Luckily it was about the same as one piece of plywood. But it added height. Heres some pictures, they are not great but I had a couple boxes of stinger RCAs under there just for reference of what I could fit. Fiberglass would relly solve almost all of the issues I'm running into. Any idea of how thick the fiberglass would need to be to hold a 8" slim woofer? Also it looks bigger in the picture height wise (the space due to the angle of the photo being from above). I only have 3.5" to 4" max of height. I would really need to be at 3" high to be safe and have a grill on it since its kinf of varying height due to the curves...


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

That dayton is mighty intriguing. It it smaller than any of the drivers i have been considering so it has yet to come across my radar. I will throw it into some modeling and see what it looks like. My cu. ft is extremley low. The largest I can make my box is 12" (maybe 13") wide x 16" deep x 3" tall. Cant really go any taller on the box because I need room for the grill and excursion. That is 9.43 liters (576 cubic inches) not subtracting the displacement of the woofer and the thickness of material.


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

I will say this - I have a JBL BassPro SL under-seat sub - it's their powered 8" sub - and I have that thing playing down to 35hz cleanly, at about 20db higher than my mids/highs. That little under-3" high subwoofer is amazing for what it is. It easily keeps up with my 75Wx6 JL amp (dash, door and rear-deck speakers). 

I've been impressed with it. If those 8" passives work as well, or better than their powered sub, I think you'll be very happy - especially with two.

How much power are you going to feed them?

Really curious to hear how this works out for you.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

jtrosky said:


> I will say this - I have a JBL BassPro SL under-seat sub - it's their powered 8" sub - and I have that thing playing down to 35hz cleanly, at about 20db higher than my mids/highs. That little under-3" high subwoofer is amazing for what it is. It easily keeps up with my 75Wx6 JL amp (dash, door and rear-deck speakers).
> 
> I've been impressed with it. If those 8" passives work as well, or better than their powered sub, I think you'll be very happy - especially with two.
> 
> ...



They said 100 watts/4 ohm each. So Im looking for a mini amp right now to power them in parallel at 2 ohms(mono). So probably 300-400 watts at 2 ohms so I can have some dynamic headroom and stay safley beneath the clip point of the amp. Thats option one. Option two is to run them in Stereo off of a 2 channel amp. Im thinking one of the Audiocontrol ACM mini amps. That is really good to hear that you like that JBL under seat sub and that it performs that well. The reason I wanted to go passive is so I can run only one set of speaker wires up to them. I have a DSP and power distribution block in my trunk with my other amps so it makes sense to just add a mini amp back there to power them.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Toro would be perfect here


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

lankfordcodi said:


> They said 100 watts/4 ohm each. So Im looking for a mini amp right now to power them in parallel at 2 ohms(mono). So probably 300-400 watts at 2 ohms so I can have some dynamic headroom and stay safley beneath the clip point of the amp. Thats option one. Option two is to run them in Stereo off of a 2 channel amp. Im thinking one of the Audiocontrol ACM mini amps. That is really good to hear that you like that JBL under seat sub and that it performs that well. The reason I wanted to go passive is so I can run only one set of speaker wires up to them. I have a DSP and power distribution block in my trunk with my other amps so it makes sense to just add a mini amp back there to power them.


Yeah, honestly, if these existed when I added that BassPro SL, I probably would have went the same route - small amp in the trunk and one of those under each seat. The BassPro SL that I have is 125W RMS. 

Obviously, it doesn't give you "shake your windows" bass, but it fills out the bottom end nicely for good sound quality, which is what I was looking for - and it really has filled that roll nicely. 

Looking forward to hearing how this works out for you!


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

dcfis said:


> Toro would be perfect here



Yup, thats one on my short list. I'm a bit hesitant because I did have an issue with one of Toro's 4 channel minis. It went into permanent protect from running it bridged (4 ohms) and I had to return it, but I'm considering giving them another shot. I was kind of upset when it happened so I never exchanged it, I just decided to return it and buy a more expensive amp. But for this under seat project, their mini mono would really check all of the boxes and it might be worth giving them another shot just because there are a lot of people that seem to like them and have no issues.




jtrosky said:


> Yeah, honestly, if these existed when I added that BassPro SL, I probably would have went the same route - small amp in the trunk and one of those under each seat. The BassPro SL that I have is 125W RMS.
> 
> Obviously, it doesn't give you "shake your windows" bass, but it fills out the bottom end nicely for good sound quality, which is what I was looking for - and it really has filled that roll nicely.
> 
> Looking forward to hearing how this works out for you!


Thats exactly what I'm looking for as well, just to fill in some missing midbass up front. I have a 12" subwoofer in my trunk, I just want to bring a bit of the lower frequencies more up front where the rest of my speakers are. When my system is turned higher up, I start to get some midbass out of my 6.5" dynaudios but they are not that sensitive and dont have much bump at lower volumes. What I really wanted was some 8" woofers up front but I'm limited to a shallow mount depth of 2.5" and only 6.5" size. Theres no room to cut the hole bigger unless I build custom fiberglass kicks or door panels which I dont have the ability to do (not yet at least LOL) So if yours is 120 watts RMS then it sounds like it might even be the same 8" woofer, this one just has a new enclosure and a passive radiator added on.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

These arrived today, will be installing them this weekend. Will let everyone know how they sound!! I got them for $200 on ebay, they retail for $260. The seller had them drop shipped directly from harman which was a delight to see that they were not some B Stock from somewhere! The box they showed up in was hilariously large for how small they are. They are REALLY heavy though, I suppose thats a good sign!


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

What DSP do you have? I have a Helix DSP.3 and I found that the Augmented Bass Processing was a HUGE benefit for getting my 8" under-seat sub to play louder at lower frequencies. What's really nice about is that it's volume-dependent - so at lower volumes, it boosts the bass more that it does at higher volumes - which allows you get nice, deep bass at all volume levels. Normally, at lower volumes, the bass is usually lacking.

The Helix also has the "SubXpander" function which also helps give deeper bass.

Obviously, you can just boost with EQ, but it's not quite the same - the results were just so much better with the Helix FX functions.

Regardless, with or without those Helix functions, I'm sure they will make a big difference in your setup.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

jtrosky said:


> What DSP do you have? I have a Helix DSP.3 and I found that the Augmented Bass Processing was a HUGE benefit for getting my 8" under-seat sub to play louder at lower frequencies. What's really nice about is that it's volume-dependent - so at lower volumes, it boosts the bass more that it does at higher volumes - which allows you get nice, deep bass at all volume levels. Normally, at lower volumes, the bass is usually lacking.
> 
> The Helix also has the "SubXpander" function which also helps give deeper bass.
> 
> ...


SERIOUSLY!!!??? Yes!!! I want to boost the bass at low volumes but not higher volumes. My dynaudios really shine when I have the bass boosted at low volumes but then when I turn it up too loud it sounds better without the boost. I’m using a Dayton DSP-408 but I’m in the middle of shopping for a 10 channel right now with higher output voltage to get my gains lower on my amps.

I really was about to buy an Audiocontrol DM-810 just because I have an aftermarket headunit and there’s a lot of features in the helix pro mk2 that I do not necessarily need... but I gotta tell ya that right there might be worth the extra $!!

not sure if that’s possible with the audiocontrol?? I want at least 8v output so it’s kind of a showdown between those two choices. I can get the DM-810 for $430 and a pro mk2 for $700 but it will be coming from overseas and take a bit to arrive...


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

lankfordcodi said:


> SERIOUSLY!!!??? Yes!!! I want to boost the bass at low volumes but not higher volumes. My dynaudios really shine when I have the bass boosted at low volumes but then when I turn it up too loud it sounds better without the boost. I’m using a Dayton DSP-408 but I’m in the middle of shopping for a 10 channel right now with higher output voltage to get my gains lower on my amps.
> 
> I really was about to buy an Audiocontrol DM-810 just because I have an aftermarket headunit and there’s a lot of features in the helix pro mk2 that I do not necessarily need... but I gotta tell ya that right there might be worth the extra $!!
> 
> not sure if that’s possible with the audiocontrol?? I want at least 8v output so it’s kind of a showdown between those two choices. I can get the DM-810 for $430 and a pro mk2 for $700 but it will be coming from overseas and take a bit to arrive...


Well, not so sure the Augmented Bass Processing will be helpful for your situation. It's only applied to channels labeled as a Subwoofer. Unless you could label your midbass speakers as subwoofers... Not sure how that would work out.

So the augmented bass processing is really only intended to use with subwoofers.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

Dang. I would love to have a dsp than can do volume dependent eq. I guess I could just make 2 presets a low volume preset and a high volume preset... or in addition to having a bass knob for my sub, get a remote level for the under seat midbass/subs...

but I do have dedicated midbass woofers in my doors. These under seat things are just for extra bass up front. I plan to have them crossed from 50 hz up to 250 or even as high as 500hz. Manufacturer only claims they are for up to 250hz but I will see what they sound like above that. So I could have them labeled as sub for channels and just set the low pass to go up to 250-500 Hz.


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## loled1 (Dec 20, 2018)

I am also very curious about the JBL Fuse. Have you had a chance to install the Jbls yet? How do you like them?


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

loled1 said:


> I am also very curious about the JBL Fuse. Have you had a chance to install the Jbls yet? How do you like them?


I'm going to put them in tomorrow. I will let everyone know how they sound! They are quite heavy and seem well built. there is a passive radiator and 8" sub-woofer on each. RMS rating is 100 watts each which seems about right and reasonable for a slim woofer like it is...


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

So I am in the middle of installing these right now. I was so excited to see how they sound I disconnected one of my dynaudio mw162gts from my Rockford t400x4ad and plugged one of these in just for a temporary test. Surprisingly, I had to turn the gain up quite some bit to get it moving good, and balanced with the music I was playing. Now the dynaudio is only a 6.5" but it has a 3" voice coil and it still surprised me this was taking more power (I guess it is an 8 inch "subwoofer" after all). I only hooked up one and all I have to say is WOW. These JBL fuse subwoofers are absolute beasts for their size! For the test, I turned off my 12" subwoofer in my trunk and I could easily invision a system with just two of these instead of a full on subwoofer. They dont rattle your car (well kind of actually and i'm only using one out of two...), but they do exactly what I wanted them to do, they have very punchy, but deep punchy bass and midbass. They dont sound crappy or a over excurted kind of punchy like some slim mount woofers do. I was actually starting to get the clip indicator on my rockford amp and that happens around 135 watts and this thing was sounding excellent. The sound quality is seriously top notch and I would definitely say these are one of my absolute favorite purchases out of everything I've tried for my system. I tried sitting it on my back seat and then under my passenger seat (only one not even the second one yet) and it started to vibrate the mirror when turned all the way up. 


It started to get really hot outside and i was sweating so I stopped installing for the day and I'm going to get them both permanently hooked up on their own amp channels tomorrow...but I am seriously impressed. I had them crossed over from 35hz to 2000hz. I experimented with 35hz to 200hz and then up, they definitely play higher than 200hz like the manufacturer states, I think they were just using those numbers because they are marketing these as subwoofers, which they could easily be, but I would say they are somewhere inbetween an 8 inch subwoofer and an 8 inch midwoofer. I cold not hear good vocals through them like a regular woofer, but you could blatently tell when i changed the crossover from 200hz up to 2000hz, so their natural rolloff is definitely higher than 200hz by quite a bit (somewhere in the 1k to 2k range is where i stopped hearing a change in crossover) I did not try playing them below 35hz, my big 12" in the trunk will be doing that so I'm not too worried about trying that.

I really have nothing bad to say so far, the sound quality of the bass is seriously phenomenal and I cannot believe I paid $200 for these. If someone told me these were $500+ speakers, I would have believe them in a heartbeat. No rattles at slightly over rated power, just great midbass! 

I only listened to about two songs so 10 minutes or so. I will update further after I have used them for a while. I drive about 1.5 hours to and from work every weekday and I have the music turned up pretty loud the whole time so only time will tell if they will hold up. My only concern is burning them up or over excursion due to the slim size, but like I said, I put 100 watts plus into them and they did not bottom out. I suspect they would if you got up in the 200 watt range, but I'm not going to try that. See the pictures I have attached, the surround and the radiator are rubber and feel sturdy. 

Nothing on these feel cheap, As long as these hold up over time, my hat is off to JBL/Harman

On a side note, I wonder if the magnet is ferrite or neodymium... hmmm


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Jbl always overdelivers


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

In terms of durability - they look like the same 8" woofer that is in my JBL BassPro SL powered sub - and I boost them at 35hz by quite a few dB in order to get 35hz to play at the same level as higher freqs it produces and it never miss a beat. Never get any over-excursion sound or strange vibration sounds - and honestly, I have it turned down quite a bit (in the DSP as well as it's own gain), so that it doesn't overpower my regular speakers, which are powered by a 75Wx6 RMS amp. The BassPro SL powered sub is more expensive than a lot of other 8" powered subs, but it's the thinnest and usually gets the best marks for actual sound quality. 

I really have no complaints with with the powered sub. It really does to an excellent job especially when you consider how thin it is - the whole powered sub box is less than 3" in height. It's crazy how much deep bass they get out of that little thing. Granted, you won't get much below 35hz (at least with mine - I have a feeling they use a subsonic filter to avoid playing anything lower), but for my uses, I'm very happy with it (no real sub in the trunk - and don't want one).

Ill have to give these some serious consideration if I ever replace the BassPro SL. My problem is that if you lower my drivers seat all of the way (power seat), it could hit into anything over like 2.5" high (which is why I installed the BassPro SL under the passenger seat - it doesn't go up and down, so no chance of it hitting into the under-seat sub). 

Here is an example of my current measured response using the BassPro SL as the sub:


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## Dremgragen (Jul 14, 2008)

What is a little heat exhaustion compared to bass upgrade? Get back out there!


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## loled1 (Dec 20, 2018)

That sounds awesome. Are you trying to run the JBLs in a 3 way active system and use your current midbass as a midrange? Or are you going to continue using your midbass and just supplement the JBLs in for more bass inside the car? I'm curious, you crossed your JBLs at 2000hz, are you still using the 6.5 during your testing?


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

dcfis said:


> Jbl always overdelivers


Yes, You called it on this one. JBL put some serious thought and consideration into designing these. The amount of bass blows my door woofers out of the water due to the sealed enclosures, + the radiators and I suspect since the enclosures and speakers have been designed to work with each other. Its A+ sound considering the size and cost. Its awesome to finally have some bass up front where the rest of my sound is coming from. Ive been limited to 6.5" shallow mount woofers in my doors until now for any lower frequencies up front.





jtrosky said:


> In terms of durability - they look like the same 8" woofer that is in my JBL BassPro SL powered sub - and I boost them at 35hz by quite a few dB in order to get 35hz to play at the same level as higher freqs it produces and it never miss a beat. Never get any over-excursion sound or strange vibration sounds - and honestly, I have it turned down quite a bit (in the DSP as well as it's own gain), so that it doesn't overpower my regular speakers, which are powered by a 75Wx6 RMS amp. The BassPro SL powered sub is more expensive than a lot of other 8" powered subs, but it's the thinnest and usually gets the best marks for actual sound quality.
> 
> I really have no complaints with with the powered sub. It really does to an excellent job especially when you consider how thin it is - the whole powered sub box is less than 3" in height. It's crazy how much deep bass they get out of that little thing. Granted, you won't get much below 35hz (at least with mine - I have a feeling they use a subsonic filter to avoid playing anything lower), but for my uses, I'm very happy with it (no real sub in the trunk - and don't want one).
> 
> ...


Nice! That sure is good to know you push them hard and they have held up. You need good quality in something like this because they are not repairable. If you blow them, youre done. Good luck sourcing a replacement woofer, its a proprietary type deal made just for these specific setups by Harman. Honestly, I'm pretty picky when it comes to my gear, and these things do not disappoint in terms of performance and especially quality of sound. I have very small openings under my seats, its a 2019 Toyota corolla (non JBL, well i guess partially now LOL) and just like yours, the drivers seat can go up and down, but the passenger cannot. The picture i have posted is of the passenger seat, BUT I also fit the other one under the drivers seat with it lowered. The dimensions are very small and I tried building my own box first out of plywood, it did not work. Only composite materials like these or custom fiberglass will work under a sedan set. Its alot smaller space than under many truck seats. I pulled up a picture of yours, and the woofer looks exactly the same, and considering it has a 125 watt rms amp and made by harman, it seems likley that they used the same woofer. Only in these there is a passive radiator added and not an amplifier unit.









loled1 said:


> That sounds awesome. Are you trying to run the JBLs in a 3 way active system and use your current midbass as a midrange? Or are you going to continue using your midbass and just supplement the JBLs in for more bass inside the car? I'm curious, you crossed your JBLs at 2000hz, are you still using the 6.5 during your testing?


Originally I was planning on getting a sub amp that goes up to 250hz but after hearing them I'm running them on a full range amp no doubt and going to experiment with different crossover points. When I did my preliminary test, I had all other speakers turned off at one point, and then tested with just the JBL and the tweeters. Im sure once I hook back up my 6.5" dynaudio woofers in my front doors I will have to make sure there is not much overlap, but this is really opening new doors for me because I've been limited in space to only shallow mount 6.5" woofers and tweeters (2 way without using aluminum pods). So I may even end up putting a actual mid range in where my door speakers are depenidng on how high i can get the dynaudios to play and use these for lower midbass. I will have to play with it and see. Original plan was just to supplement the woofers since my 6.5"s could not produce the midbass i wanted, but I may end up going to a 3 way type setup where they are all playing their own independent frequencies since the sound quality is so good.. they definatley play higher than 200hz, only further testing will determine if the quality is decent at those higher frequencies since they are designed as subwoofers but I'm willing to do some trial and error.


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## loled1 (Dec 20, 2018)

What is the height of the JBLs? Why are there 2 sets of speaker wire connectors on each JBL? Is one set to connect the radiators? It would be great if you keep us posted on how you like the subwoofers after you got your system tuned to the way you like it most and what worked best.


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## lankfordcodi (Apr 28, 2020)

loled1 said:


> What is the height of the JBLs? Why are there 2 sets of speaker wire connectors on each JBL? Is one set to connect the radiators? It would be great if you keep us posted on how you like the subwoofers after you got your system tuned to the way you like it most and what worked best.


71.25mm or 2.8" - The drawing below shows them on their stand screwed together. You remove the grills and remove 4 long screws to separate them. So divide the measurement in half which comes out to 2.8"

The double speaker terminals are just two parallel connections. They both are connected to the same exact thing internally. Its just so you have two extra connections so you can wire them in parallel down to a 2 ohm load. Then you can run a speaker wire from one over to the second one instead of running a whole other speaker wire from your amp for the second one.

The radiator is a passive object. Its just a piece of rubber and cone with no voice coil. Its there to improve the sound in such a small enclosure in leau of having a vented or sealed enclosure.


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## Thor23278 (May 4, 2020)

Thanks for the review. I've been looking at these myself. I had one of those slim Rockville 8" powered subs under my passenger seat and loved the sound at low to moderate volumes. It could not keep up/blend with my AD W600s in my doors at high volumes though. I moved to a 8" Sundown SD-3 sealed in the rear floor but, while that sub has the volume to keep up, it just sounded so much cleaner and delivered a better punch having a sub up front. I may have give these a shot!


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

@lankfordcodi - now that some time has passed, I'm just curious to hear your updated thoughts on these fuse subwoofers... Just kind of curious. Have you taken any measurements to see how low they play? Are you still very happy with their performance? Any updates?

Thanks!


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## Alexvladi1987 (Feb 8, 2021)

Any updates ?


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## jtrosky (Jul 19, 2019)

Unfortunately, it seems that the OP is no longer a member here - it looks like he was banned for some reason...


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## Alexvladi1987 (Feb 8, 2021)

Has anyone else used the jbl fuse ?


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## ArjanOskam (Mar 5, 2021)

Can someone help me with the wiring of these? I don't understand anymore...

I have the X-Fire EFX1000.1 Monoblock amp

Which has:
"Unbridged" Minimum 2 Ohm.
350 watt RMS op 4 Ohm
500 watt RMS op 2 Ohm

The JBL Fuse has this in the manual:

Continuous power handling 200 watts RMS
Peak power handling 600 watts
Frequency response 30 Hz – 200 Hz
Nominal impedance 2 ohms (parallel connection)
4 ohms separating twin enclosure

Can someone please explain how to wire this up properly... Should I run 2 wires? Should I run 1? I don't understand what I am doing anymore...


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## glockcoma (Dec 22, 2015)

You can treat it like 2 separate subs or one. 

You would just need to be easy on the gain to prevent damaging the sub 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## glockcoma (Dec 22, 2015)

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-benrOdYf9Kc/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html




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