# How do YOU determine the best crossover point and slope on your active setup?



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

Question is simple. I searched around a bit online but didn't find much. What I am hoping is some people can toss out their ideas not only for me but others.

I am sitting here with REQ and Smaart 7 (the trial) and kinda clueless as to how to choose the "correct" settings. I constantly see people say "well just change and listen" but that seems like a very poor way. There are way to many settings and it is almost impossible to choose when you have something like a Minidsp. 

So are there measurements you can look for? Are there certain things you do? Right now I listened to a guy and have the tweeter crossed at 2K and while it moved the entire stage up the tweeter sounds incredibly cluttered now. I might have the slope set wrong but I honest'y haven't a clue on how to tell. I, personally, have the ScanSpeak Illuminator D3004/6020-00 so it should be able to handle a decent amount...Anyone has any thoughts or ideas that would be awesome. 


If this thread has been made before than oops..I didn't find anything while searching.


----------



## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

What mids are you running and are you using a DSP? I'm assuming you set the high pass on the tweeters but also the lowpass on the mids the same?


----------



## crazhorse (Mar 9, 2010)

check out this review of your tweeters...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...nator-d3004-6020-00-tweeter-textile-dome.html

he ended up with them crossed at 5k.. I'm like you wish there was a cut and dry setting other than listen and pick what sounds good


----------



## wisnulie (May 24, 2015)

nice information
i need this information
thanks all


----------



## gregerst22 (Dec 18, 2012)

I'd start with using REW to take an impulse response of each speaker. Based on the results it should give you a good idea of where you can set the crossovers. There's a lot of good info in the How-to section of this site. Read the sticky's.


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

SWRocket said:


> What mids are you running and are you using a DSP? I'm assuming you set the high pass on the tweeters but also the lowpass on the mids the same?


SB Acoustics SB17NAC35-8 are the mids. I am indeed crossing everything at or around the same levels. I didn't mess with it much because I wanted to know if there was a better way. 

I noticed the same thing the other guy said. They DOOO play low and they play low very loud but it just sounds disgusting. It is really awful.


----------



## southpawskater (Feb 17, 2010)

Here is a good place to start.
Read the section on cross overs, you will have to adjust to taste and it requires a lot of tinkering to get right but this and some information from the manufactures websites should get you on the right path.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ers/163914-essentials-sound-quality-imho.html


----------



## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

michael92 said:


> SB Acoustics SB17NAC35-8 are the mids. I am indeed crossing everything at or around the same levels. I didn't mess with it much because I wanted to know if there was a better way.
> 
> I noticed the same thing the other guy said. They DOOO play low and they play low very loud but it just sounds disgusting. It is really awful.


I think the advice on using REW to measure is the right one. Take some measurements and post the graphs here. There are some amazing people here that can help figure out what's happening.
I am considering the same tweeter for my Cruze install (with the ScanSpeak 18WU/4741T-00 mids though) so I'll be watching this closely as well.


----------



## Phil Indeblanc (May 27, 2015)

I think there is a method of playing different levels of Hz that the speaker is supposed to play. You can play these Hz tracks, and use a SMD CC1 to verify the sound. And adjust the crossover. Once you have that on each component, you can adjust these to a degree according to your ear. If you have a trained ear and know what to look for in sound, or at least know what you like, then you can adjust this. Many people don't, and are best off at the standard setting or a setting that has a wide popular vote.
There is also a DD1 which measures distortion. This helps you know the max the component can handle by measuring the max on your gains.


----------



## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

The first place to start is with the frequency response graphs for your drivers, and an understanding of the general frequency response of different types/sizes of speakers. You need to know what the limits of the speakers are before you do anything.

The second step is to determine which speakers have overlap within their usable range and which ones do not. If your tweeter can't play to 2k, then there is no point in trying to force it to. You have to chose the lowest safest setting for the tweeter, and even if the mid can't play that high cleanly, you won't want to push the tweeter. You're better off having a gap, or playing the mid into beaming, than ruining a tweeter by playing it too low.

Once you know where you have overlap, for example the mid may be able to play down to 63hz cleanly, without risk of damage, and your subwoofer can play to 120hz, then you get some wiggle room for what works best. 

At this point you can use your ears by muting one set of drivers at a time and listen for the cleanest output, but to really dial them in you'll need to use an RTA to measure the FR and find the best settings for the FR you want.

Understanding how the basics work will give you a much needed head start to tuning.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

To get me going, I just looked at the spec of the speakers I'm using, and set the DSP up to crossover accordingly.
In my case, I have the 12w7 crossed over at 55hz, and the sub sonic filter set to 22hz.
I have the L6Se's set to 55-2800hz.
And the L1R Pro2's set to 2800-18000hz.

Still haven't even started "tuning" yet.


----------



## Alias essSQuee (Dec 22, 2009)

I throw a dart at a frequency response graph.

Okay, no, but I've been trying to figure out how to copy a passive crossover in my MS-8 active setup. I'm going to have everything ready for my first tuning tomorrow.


----------



## troutspinner (Nov 8, 2013)

Manufacturer specs are good for setting the range sweep in REW for measuring. First match your levels and then set the appropriate range in REW and run some sweeps, preferably using Hanatsu's method found here. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...first-timers-guide-measuring-your-system.html

After you measure all of your speakers, the graphs will show you where two speakers cross each other in dB and Frequency, this is the audible crossover point and the crossover point to start with. You can adjust from there if needed to affect height, width and sibilance.


----------



## Hugg727 (Sep 17, 2009)

All good info in here so far..

Quick rule of thumb... in the specs for that tweeter the fs is 700hz. Typically that means that you could cross it over at double the fs. Thats pretty low for a tweeter, so 2k is doable. Not sure how it sounds because we dont know you mid drivers specs.


----------



## jriggs (Jun 14, 2011)

I am running those same scan tweeters. Over the past few years, depending on the mid I have paired with them, I have had them HP'ed as low as 2,500 and as high as 4,000, usually steeper slopes. at 2,500 they sounded good at low to moderate volume, at 4,000 they can get very loud and sound great doing it. I would say that if you like it play your music loud, 2,000 is too low for these tweeters, even with a steep slope.


----------



## MetricMuscle (Sep 16, 2013)

michael92 said:


> Question is simple. I searched around a bit online but didn't find much. What I am hoping is some people can toss out their ideas not only for me but others.
> 
> I am sitting here with REQ and Smaart 7 (the trial) and kinda clueless as to how to choose the "correct" settings. I constantly see people say "well just change and listen" but that seems like a very poor way. There are way to many settings and it is almost impossible to choose when you have something like a Minidsp.
> 
> ...


There are a number of goals you are trying to meet when choosing drivers, location, mounting position, crossover points, slopes etc. Science, Magic and Personal Preference play a big role in this too.
Ultimately you would like to keep every speaker playing in the frequency range it can easily and does well. A 2-way front in a car is a difficult compromise unless both woofer and tweeter can be mounted on-axis.

Will you be using a DSP or EQ?
What will you be using to crossover?
What amps are you using?


----------



## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

Michael, this may or may not help, but I was looking at the same tweeters, as I mentioned, and ran into this: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-6.5-2-way-signature-car-audio-kit/
 
This is a kit the ScanSpeak made with passive x-over. Although you are using active, I thought that perhaps looking at the specs for the passive x-over may give you some insight into their thinking. Here is the link to the spec sheet for the kit.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

southpawskater said:


> Here is a good place to start.
> Read the section on cross overs, you will have to adjust to taste and it requires a lot of tinkering to get right but this and some information from the manufactures websites should get you on the right path.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ers/163914-essentials-sound-quality-imho.html


^ +1.. 

I'll add:

On Low-Pass - Basically you want the driver to play up to the point where it starts beaming (term for off-axis response starts diverging and getting wonky). A couple resources for knowing that. Rule of thumb based on cone-size. Noted specs for the driver (charts) which typically show off-axis measurements. This is also to be considered if the driver is to be mounted on or off axis. If on-axis, the driver can probably play a good bit higher without adversely affecting the freq response, driver depending.

On High-Pass - You're basically trying to avoid break-up and distortion here. A small driver playing lower frequencies than it should, will cause issues throughout it's bandwidth, even in higher frequencies where the driver should have no issue. So many such as ErinH who wrote that great primer above, like to cross a larger driver higher, thus it can extend more output with less distortion, resulting in better impact. Even the venerable JL ZR800 8" mid-bass driver in Erin's car, for example, I think is only high-passed at 80hz, as opposed to lower which we might guess. That's the typical go-to freq for a 6-1/2" door mid.. One would suggest the ZR can reach far lower. However crossing them higher allows them to authoritatively kick butt, resulting in the cleanest, best-blended mid-bass I've heard yet. 

In short, don't fall in the trap thinking you should high-pass your drivers as low as possible. That approach invites cone break up. So it's a balancing act between drivers. Picking high-pass and low-pass to avoid beaming affects at the top of a driver's range, and avoiding break-up caused by driver excursion that could be handled by the next larger driver below it.

... oops. sorry. good coffee today.


----------



## Phil Indeblanc (May 27, 2015)

All these are great and helpful for anyone(like me). SWRocket gives you a good starting point for your gear. Try it and let us know.


----------



## Jepalan (Jun 27, 2013)

Good discussion and good advice. I have one very minor clarification to Babs' post.
Technically we high-pass drivers to prevent over-powering the driver and/or driving it beyond it's excursion limits. This is not "cone breakup". 

"Cone breakup" is a term used for mechanical resonance phenomena that occurs at the high-end of a driver's frequency range and causes undesirable non-harmonic distortion. Cone-breakup can be treated with notch filters or cone dampening (coatings and such) or by the design of the cone itself (addition of ridges, different materials, etc). High-pass filters are not used to treat 'cone breakup' per se.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Jepalan said:


> Good discussion and good advice. I have one very minor clarification to Babs' post.
> Technically we high-pass drivers to prevent over-powering the driver and/or driving it beyond it's excursion limits. This is not "cone breakup".


Agreed.. Correct.. I wasn't too clear on that.



Jepalan said:


> "Cone breakup" is a term used for mechanical resonance phenomena that occurs at the high-end of a driver's frequency range and causes undesirable non-harmonic distortion. Cone-breakup can be treated with notch filters or cone dampening (coatings and such) or by the design of the cone itself (addition of ridges, different materials, etc). High-pass filters are not used to treat 'cone breakup' per se.


Learn something every day.  Danka!

Perhaps the term I was looking for is "distortion" from a smaller driver trying to play too low, thus too close to it's xmax, if that's correct. Can't remember how I had read it (I think written by Erin or Chad maybe).


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

If 2.5 khz sounds harsh check the following.

1. Slopes, make sure the scans are on a minimum 24db/oct high pass.

2. Check levels. I have my scans cut -6db on both sides.

3. Use the eq on the mini dsp. All cars need the response to be cut in the 1.25-4khz range. Cut more as you go up. You will also need to cut 8&16.

The Scan 3004 is one of the best tweeters out there, especially in a 2 way. You can pay a lot more for only a very nominal difference, if that.


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

IF you spend the time to learn smaart7, although in 30 days it might kinda be difficult, with life happening and all, but if youCAN learn how to really work with the transfer function, it is VERY powerful, it does what REW does, just in real time, continuously, without having to take a sweep, stop, make a change, take a sweep, etc. I own Smaartv7 and another called SysTune Pro, I use them both at work. If you have any questions about either REW or Smaart, I'm off work today and tomorrow, I'll be glad to help however I can. I think Smaart is WAY more powerful for what you're doing.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Niick said:


> IF you spend the time to learn smaart7, although in 30 days it might kinda be difficult, with life happening and all, but if youCAN learn how to really work with the transfer function, it is VERY powerful, it does what REW does, just in real time, continuously, without having to take a sweep, stop, make a change, take a sweep, etc. I own Smaartv7 and another called SysTune Pro, I use them both at work. If you have any questions about either REW or Smaart, I'm off work today and tomorrow, I'll be glad to help however I can. I think Smaart is WAY more powerful for what you're doing.


While I have and have been using REW for my tuning, I did spring for Audiotools (iOS). I'm beginning to see that "suite" of software may be able to let me completely retire my old bulky PC laptop and move my tuning over to the iPad Air. As a newbie with this 'level' of tuning, it's quite fascinating stuff to finally learn the tools.


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

I also use AudioTools on an iPad Air, do you have a camera connection kit, or an IPad I/O dock of some type, like the Alesis, Behringer, Or Focusrite models? You'll need this to get the most out of the system, or the iaudiointerface2, from AudioControl Industrial, it's specifically made for the app and the iPad/iPhone, but.........its $500.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Niick said:


> I also use AudioTools on an iPad Air, do you have a camera connection kit, or an IPad I/O dock of some type, like the Alesis, Behringer, Or Focusrite models? You'll need this to get the most out of the system, or the iaudiointerface2, from AudioControl Industrial, it's specifically made for the app and the iPad/iPhone, but.........its $500.


Externally all I have currently is the HDMI adapter (not the camera USB adapter) and that's about it. So I'm clean slate as far as hardware goes and totally open for suggestions for a good setup. Since my UMM-6 mic is acting up, I'm open on mics as well. 

Yeah I was checking out the iAudiointerface2... Ouch. Can't do it. 

So pretty much what I've got currently is the iPad, the app, the Helix DSP.


----------



## subterFUSE (Sep 21, 2009)

Niick said:


> IF you spend the time to learn smaart7, although in 30 days it might kinda be difficult, with life happening and all, but if youCAN learn how to really work with the transfer function, it is VERY powerful, it does what REW does, just in real time, continuously, without having to take a sweep, stop, make a change, take a sweep, etc. I own Smaartv7 and another called SysTune Pro, I use them both at work. If you have any questions about either REW or Smaart, I'm off work today and tomorrow, I'll be glad to help however I can. I think Smaart is WAY more powerful for what you're doing.



I was just looking at Smaart and possibly going to purchase it and begin learning about it.

Do you recommend the full version, or the Di version?


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

Ya know what, I take that last post back....kinda, you can run the transfer function module in audio tools using the iPad's line out and a USB mic hooked up with CCK. I do this at work sometimes, it actually works brilliantly. Transfer function is without a doubt the most powerful tool in the app for sound system setup, installation and tuning. Think about it....you can measure phase.....in real time!!! Think of the implications of that.....


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

I would say, if you're making a living installing sound systems, the full version, if you are wanting to use it for your own personal use, the Di version is pretty damn hard to beat. Just remember, in Di you DONT get the IR mode, and you cannot run multiple simultaneous transfer / spectrum measurements. That's the real power of smaart7 full version, it's ability to run an unlimited number of simultaneous measurements, invaluable for troubleshooting......and other things....but I'd buy Di, you can always pay the difference and upgrade later


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Niick said:


> Ya know what, I take that last post back....kinda, you can run the transfer function module in audio tools using the iPad's line out and a USB mic hooked up with CCK. I do this at work sometimes, it actually works brilliantly. Transfer function is without a doubt the most powerful tool in the app for sound system setup, installation and tuning. Think about it....you can measure phase.....in real time!!! Think of the implications of that.....


Interesting! 
So basically the CCK to USB Mic, mini-cable to audio system, and you're done? Doesn't need another feedback loop?

Or possibly the IMM-6 mini-jack mic into the iPad line-in (same as line out). Then lightning out to audio system, maybe?


----------



## Alrojoca (Oct 5, 2012)

Yes and It can get complicated 
Once you start playing with steeper slopes, everything changes, you can cross lower, not lower than the driver can handle or it can play but lower than if using a shallow slope. And mids and subs may need more power to perform better.


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

Babs said:


> Interesting!
> So basically the CCK to USB Mic, mini-cable to audio system, and you're done? Doesn't need another feedback loop?
> 
> Or possibly the IMM-6 mini-jack mic into the iPad line-in (same as line out). Then lightning out to audio system, maybe?


Yes, for instance when I do that, I use line out from iPad (headphone) to the system's aux in, and CCK to Cross Spectrum UMM6. In transfer function setup options, click on "Ref Source", then at the bottom left you'll see a button labeled "loop back internal" or something like that. Make sure it is turned on. That's it, understand that until you start analysis, you won't hear the excitation signal....also, make sure you use the delay finder, the delay using this method will include the latency inside the iPad, so your delay between measure and reference will be greater than just the distance of the speaker to mic.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Looks like I gotta go get the CCK. Between the HDMI adapter, Airport Express and now this, I'm accumulating some apple stuffs.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

So I saw another transfer function vid by SpectraFoo where he time-aligns two speakers based on calculated delays for each speaker and doing some simple subraction math. So time-aligning using transfer function delay calculation just clicked in my brain. This, if it works this well in Audiotools, is HUGE.. Therefore I must try like immediately. Niick, if you've just taught me a sure-fire way to do T/A, I owe you a microbrew of choice Sir from your rival beer-city over here in Asheville.


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

So, there are many ways to use measurement software to determine delay times, what you should check out is how to use the phase trace to determine EXACTLY the proper delay time. Now this method is more to perfect driver to driver interaction than to adjust for the fact that you're off center in the car, but you can certainly do both. Yes, I NEVER calculate delay times based on distance anymore, EVER!! Why would you when these types of tools are available. To set delays to offset the fact that you're not in the middle of the car, I think that the impulse response Is probably the easiest/fastest way. But Imalso think that that is not the most powerful thing that delay has to offer......


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

http://youtu.be/857oIv1nL1o


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

Be sure to check out parts 2 and I think 3


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Michael my apologies, I managed to totally derail your thread but this is good stuff.
Tuning as a whole is a such a big iterative process, with crossovers being pretty much step 1 in the game.


----------



## Niick (Jun 3, 2015)

Babs, understand also that using the delay finder in ANY program is gonna be nothing more than lining up the impulse response peaks. That's what delay finder does, it finds the peak of the IR. this WILL work for determining the difference between your head and left channel-right channel, but this is NOT the solution for driver to driver phase alignment thru crossover. 

https://bobmccarthy.wordpress.com/2...-of-subs-why-i-dont-use-the-impulse-response/


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

Holy crap, I comeback to this thread 2 days later and it's going insane! 

I just had some time to do REQ..not sure what anyone is going to pull from this though. 

I did learn my sub is still insanely flat so that's good I guess


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

Here are some first runs..I really not sure what I need to provide here. This is my first real attempt at this. Before I just let the 80PRS handle everything. 

More images here. I break down each driver. If I am missing something/not doing stuff right let me know. I still have the file so I can overlap things or change the graphs if 1/12 isn't sufficient. 


Stereo - Album on Imgur

Both door drivers..just them with no tweeters or sub. LP and HP bypassed. 









Both tweeters. Crossed at 2000 @ 24DB with the BW filter.









My semi flat 8" sub.


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

You forgot the all in graph. At the end of the day, what you're hearing is the combined response. Your door mids are only kicking in around 150 hz. The sub is dominating all the way to 125 hz. This transition from sub to mid needs to happen lower ~80 hz if not lower. There's mid bass bloat ~200-300 and 1.25-3khz is probably hot even on the combined response.


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

I was just trying to get the most response from everything so I set the crossovers really low. In the case of the door drivers...well I had all that bypassed lol. I know you want the sub crossed low low. I just haven't got that far into it yet. The sub is honestly the least of my concerns. Without proper sound deadening it's just standing waves in there. I usually keep the sub quieter.


----------



## sqnut (Dec 24, 2009)

michael92 said:


> I was just trying to get the most response from everything so I set the crossovers really low. In the case of the door drivers...well I had all that bypassed lol. I know you want the sub crossed low low. I just haven't got that far into it yet. .


If the objective is to build some co-relation between what you're hearing and measuring, you have to start by setting drivers the same way both while listening and measuring. How individual drivers or set of drivers measure is only useful once you have a combined response.


----------



## Aw335tt (Sep 27, 2014)

I'm running the same tweeters as you, I've gone from 2500-3500.. I'm currently at 3000 with 12db slope and I'm really happy with the results.


----------



## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Actually not bad at all.. There's some peaks here and there that can be EQ'd but it's a great start. I assume you're measuring by sweeps, so definitely take several measurements at ear positions for spatial averaging. Also when applying EQ, Kyle Ragsdale, who did a great set of tuning youtubes, told me to EQ everything the driver is playing, not just in the range between crossovers.. Everything audible from that driver. Cuts only. Avoid adding. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## michael92 (Apr 7, 2015)

Appreciate the help guys. I think this is right and if not I will just stop posting stuff for a bit and just read. Probably feels like y'all are talking to a child 

Right now I am crossed at 3K @24db for the time being. I really need to go play with that sub and get it out of the 80+ HZ range. It's weird because in the DSP I told it to start cutting at 80..maybe I messed something up. 

Driver mid/tweeter. 









Pass mid/tweeter









ALL SPLs. 









I am going to try getting some averages tonight. Does anyone know how to use the Smaart 7 program to do these things?

One more question...how would I choose an average SPL to match everything to? I know you wanna eq down and never up. There are some bigger fluctuations going on so I was just wondering what you all think.


----------



## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

michael92 said:


> Question is simple. I searched around a bit online but didn't find much. What I am hoping is some people can toss out their ideas not only for me but others.
> 
> I am sitting here with REQ and Smaart 7 (the trial) and kinda clueless as to how to choose the "correct" settings. I constantly see people say "well just change and listen" but that seems like a very poor way. There are way to many settings and it is almost impossible to choose when you have something like a Minidsp.
> 
> ...











The crossover point is generally set as one wavelength between the tweeter and the woofer.

For instance, the center-to-center spacing in this Pioneer speaker is about 10cm. That would dictate an xover point of 3,400hz.

As you study this problem, you'll notice that as the midrange gets larger, *the tweeter has to get really beefy.* IE, if you're using an 8" midrange you wind up with a crossover point of 1700hz!

By the way, this formula generally assumes that you're equidistant from the drivers. That's one of the reasons that loudspeaker baffles are sometimes sloped; it time aligns the drivers.

You can also do some weird stuff like point the off-axis nulls at the walls and the floor, but that's some advanced ****.


----------



## lizardking (Nov 8, 2008)

Patrick Bateman said:


> The crossover point is generally set as one wavelength between the tweeter and the woofer.
> 
> For instance, the center-to-center spacing in this Pioneer speaker is about 10cm. That would dictate an xover point of 3,400hz.
> 
> ...



Interesting, that would put a typical distance of a midwoofer to tweeter at 350hz?


----------



## SWRocket (Jul 23, 2010)

according to Wavelength Frequency Calculator
it's 38.25"


----------



## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

SWRocket said:


> according to Wavelength Frequency Calculator
> it's 38.25"


Here are some xover points:

With a center to center spacing of 10cm, you have an xover of 3400hz

With a CTC of 20cm, you have a xover of 1700hz

This works backwards too; you can use the xover point to dictate the CTC spacing.


----------



## cajunner (Apr 13, 2007)

in a car, with a tweeter not on the same plane as the woofer, this guideline is less applicable?

You read where most passive crossovers are designed for tweeter to woofer placement of no more than 6" or 12" or even 18" from each other. 

this makes you think, that the crossover "got this" when you can follow the instructions, but really it might just show a lot of leeway in the manufacturer install pointers.

certainly, A-pillar builds would be a lot less common if we were stuck to using the factory provided passive crossovers, based simply on whether or not we were within that distance specified by the manufacturer.

I would expect that if we were trying to determine what was the best crossover slope/point in our own cars, (using DSP) that we would first determine what the actual limits to the speakers are from a safety standpoint, then we would see what the range is, based on install factors, then last, follow the manufacturer provided guidelines on their set of variables that have the drivers on the same plane, same axis.


----------

