# SkizeR's 1990 Nissan 300zx ground-up build



## SkizeR

Well, ive been planning and talking about this for a while now and cant believe its here. My build log. 

*First off i want to thank everyone on this forum. I would not be where i am now without you guys. All the help and support is/was much needed.*

My main goal for right now is to have it done by April 20th so i can take it to the competition in Syracuse. Im pretty much doing this single-handedly with some help every now and then by my good friend Mattei. 

Now for the fun stuff. 
hey i was wondering if you can help me out and edit the first post in my build log and change my equipment list to this...

Now for the fun stuff. 
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx N/A (twin turbo swap going in after build is finished)
Source Unit: Pioneer DEX-P99RS
Tweeters: Scan-Speak Revelator R2904
Mid Range: Scan Speak Illuminator 15wu
Mid Bass: Melodic Acoustic Intimid8r's
Subs: (2) Morel Ultimo 12's and (1) DIYMA R12
Sub Amp: AudioQue 2200D and Zapco DC 750.2
Mid Bass Amp: (2) Zapco DC 500.1
Mid Range Amp: Zapco DC 360.4
Tweeter Amp: Zapco DC 350.2
Amp control: Zapco DRC-SL
Sound Deadening: AlphaDamp and STP provided by Greg at South East Customs. Big thanks to him for the help.


First some pics of the car..










































To start it off i wanted to keep the p99 completely scratch free as ive somehow managed to do with my CDA-117 in my daily car. This time, being careful around it wasnt enough, so i made my own screen protector out of an Invisishield by Zagg for an iPad. 

























Cant even see it!


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## SkizeR

Well the first somewhat warm day came along the other week so i decided to head to my neighbors to where it was parked for a few days to work on it. Since it was at their house and didnt want to do anything to serious, i just got the trunk cleaned up and some panels removed.









Door card removed revealing 23 year old speakers. These things were so shot, that the surround has completely dried up and flaked off.

















Took off some of the panels in the trunk and couldn't believe the amount of dirt under there. A lot of it looks like rust, but its not.. thats allllll dirt besides on the spare tire which left some on the spare well but that scraped off very easily.


































Plastic moisture barrier and stock speaker baffle removed. Same with passenger seat.










Looks like the Anarchys will have plenty of room back there 










That was it for this day.


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## SkizeR

Next up... DASH REMOVAL! 

























Those are the only pics i have of the removal process. It wasnt as hard as i thought it would be and only took me about 20 minutes. That was it for that day..

Heres a few accessories for her. Everything will be fed by 2 XS Power D1200 and a Tenney 170 Amp alternator (still waiting for it in the mail). Some wheel Spacers, and some seats my friend gave me since mine were really old and the leather was all cracked, and an NRG steering wheel with a quick release.


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## SkizeR

As you can kinda see in the steering wheel pics, i finally got it moved to my house. Both good and bad. Good thats its not a half mile away and in my neighbors driveway, and bad because this is now my work area for the next few weeks...

















yeah, **** my life. About 2 feet of clearance on each side at most.

At least i got a present waiting for me on the driveway the next day. Big delivery of sound deadener from Greg at South East Customz. 

















Thats 15 sheets of STP SPL04, 9 sheets of STP SPL08, and 2 sheets of STP AK10.

Heres the beginning of deadening. I started with the trunk. (Sorry for the crappy pic. Its the only one i took of the trunk at this stage and more deadener has been added since)









Started deadening some of the floor.









Some of the passenger door. More deadener has actually been added after i took this pic..









Deadening has been taking me sooo long because of one thing, this..
Under the carpets theres a layer of insulation that has over time, got stuck in the stock deadening (which is everywhere) and i had to scrape off every last piece so the alpha damp will stick.









Started laying down some of the STP SPL 04.. this is only 1 sheet!









After that, went up for dinner and found these animals waiting for me...
























Gotta thank this lady. My mother who has been putting up with this crap cluttering her basement and garage.. 

Mattei draining the radiator so we can remove the heating and ac units under the dash so we can deaden the firewall.


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## SkizeR

On to the drivers side..


















outer door skin









AlphaDamp B-Stock... this **** is THICK


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## Notloudenuf

I'm sorry to interrupt but this is going to be outstanding. 

I love Z cars


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## SkizeR

Notloudenuf said:


> I'm sorry to interrupt but this is going to be outstanding.
> 
> I love Z cars


THANKS! I love them as well. Theres nothing else on the road like them.


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## iMpLiKaTioN

Your build is looking good. The "Amp" you just pulled is the fuel pump controller though. PUT IT BACK!!!!


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## SkizeR

iMpLiKaTioN said:


> Your build is looking good. The "Amp" you just pulled is the fuel pump controller though. PUT IT BACK!!!!


god damn it your right hahaha. my friend pointed it out and was like "oh, no need for that anymore". thank god i didnt throw it out. Thanks for the help


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## MajesticLT03

looks like a great start.. 

may I ask how much all that deadener was?? 

I need to deaden the crap out of my Impala


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## SkizeR

MajesticLT03 said:


> looks like a great start..
> 
> may I ask how much all that deadener was??
> 
> I need to deaden the crap out of my Impala


PM sent


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## shawnk

Sharp ride man. I've always liked the 300z's!

Looking foward to seeing this build unfold!


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## SkizeR

shawnk said:


> Sharp ride man. I've always liked the 300z's!
> 
> Looking foward to seeing this build unfold!


thanks! coming from the guy with my favorite build on the forum means at lot haha :laugh:


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## iMpLiKaTioN

SkizeR said:


> god damn it your right hahaha. my friend pointed it out and was like "oh, no need for that anymore". thank god i didnt throw it out. Thanks for the help


Haha no problem. Good thing I have a 300zx and decided to browse the forums today!


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## 94VG30DE

Following b/c it's a Z32. Like a boss


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## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Following b/c it's a Z32. Like a boss


i knew you would haha


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## pickup1

I'm in to see the speaker placement...


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## SkizeR

pickup1 said:


> I'm in to see the speaker placement...


il send some leftover deadener to whoever can guess each drivers placement (including subs) 

GO!


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## pickup1

Pillars/kicks/doors..


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## Thunderplains

Sub - trunk
Pillars/dash - mids tweets
Kicks - mid bass

Bout time you got this going.. Looking forward to the finished product


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## decibelle

This build reminds me of (especially) the early days of my own, except with a lot less screwing up. 

Sub'd  Sweet ride, btw.


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## SkizeR

millerlyte said:


> This build reminds me of (especially) the early days of my own, except with a lot less screwing up.
> 
> Sub'd  Sweet ride, btw.


oh dont you worry.. theres been plenty of screwing up.


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## RNBRAD

Good stuff, nice work!! While you have the inner doors exposed, might hit the bottoms and areas where water runs and moisture might sit with some rubberized coating/sealer. Serves as a dual purpose. Cars surprisingly in great shape for 23yrs old.


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## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> Sub - trunk
> Pillars/dash - mids tweets
> Kicks - mid bass
> 
> Bout time you got this going.. Looking forward to the finished product


Yeah i know. I never had a car worthy of this system. Now that i finally have something decent, the madness begins :tongue2:

Oh and nopeee.


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## SkizeR

RNBRAD said:


> Good stuff, nice work!! While you have the inner doors exposed, might hit the bottoms and areas where water runs and moisture might sit with some rubberized coating/sealer. Serves as a dual purpose. Cars surprisingly in great shape for 23yrs old.


Looks better in the pictures but thanks. And good idea. I actually have some rubberized coating in the garage/workshop/install bay/tiniest working space ever -_- lol


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## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> il send some leftover deadener to whoever can guess each drivers placement (including subs)
> 
> GO!


 
Sweet Z32. I had a Z31 back in the day and loved it. I built a fiberglass box to slide into the left hand side hatch area and stuffed a 12" JBL power series in it. I always wanted a Z32 and stil llove th elooks and design. It's a beautiful car, congrats.

Here's what I think you're going to do with the setup... (and btw thats a **** ton of equipment- especially amps, in that car!)

-10" subs in the hatch
-dual 8" subs up front in the footwell
-Anarchy midbasses in the doors
Because the dash in these is not very deep, and the pillars are small...
I'm going to guess mids and tweeters in the kicks.

:surprised:

Really looking forward to this build and I'm glad you're finally cracking away at it!


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## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Sweet Z32. I had a Z31 back in the day and loved it. I built a fiberglass box to slide into the left hand side hatch area and stuffed a 12" JBL power series in it. I always wanted a Z32 and stil llove th elooks and design. It's a beautiful car, congrats.
> 
> Here's what I think you're going to do with the setup... (and btw thats a **** ton of equipment- especially amps, in that car!)
> 
> -10" subs in the hatch
> -dual 8" subs up front in the footwell
> -Anarchy midbasses in the doors
> *Because the dash in these is not very deep, and the pillars are small...
> I'm going to guess mids and tweeters in the kicks.
> *
> :surprised:
> 
> Really looking forward to this build and I'm glad you're finally cracking away at it!


il give you a hint... i like to live dangerously 

serious note: theres actually a really nice z31 for sale by me. I thought about picking it up but the place thats selling it is really sketchy so i stayed away.


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## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> il give you a hint... i like to live dangerously
> 
> serious note: theres actually a really nice z31 for sale by me. I thought about picking it up but the place thats selling it is really sketchy so i stayed away.


Reeeeeeeeeally.....?

So then you're going to mold them into the dash corners


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## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Reeeeeeeeeally.....?
> 
> So then you're going to mold them into the dash corners


Bingo. Fiberglass enclosures for the mids under the dash anyone?


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## edzyy

Looks good. 

That front bumper looks interesting.


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## harakimi

Good posting.

I got some water leakage to the car so I'm going to take off the carpets this summer and redo sound proofing like you. I'll do the trunk as well.

Have you encountered any problems so far? 

Also I'm interested to see if you going to build something to the trunk? I hate the original plywood puzzle-lid that the space has, rattles like a mofo. Not sure how I should build more solid base there.


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## 94VG30DE

Just make sure you don't _seal _the doors when you treat them. The best rust prevention is making sure they drain properly at the bottom. Most vehicles have holes or gaps specifically for this purpose. I can't remember where they are in the Z32 door. 

Also looking forward to seeing your dash design for mid enclosures. So far, mids in the corners of the dash/a-pillar/windscreen has been my favorite location of those that I've tried.


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## SkizeR

anyone have any idea how much internal volume Scan-Speak 15wu mids would need in an enclosure?


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## Boostedrex

Granted I'm a rotary guy, but I'm in for the build thread. I have always loved the Z32's and you have some CHOICE gear going in. Can't wait to see where you go with this.


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## SkizeR

Boostedrex said:


> Granted I'm a rotary guy, but I'm in for the build thread. I have always loved the Z32's and you have some CHOICE gear going in. Can't wait to see where you go with this.


I was VERY close to buying an RX7 FD a few months ago. Love those cars. But thanks.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


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## SkizeR

working on her some more today until midnight with my friend mattei. is this enough deadener for the hatch or should i use more? also any recommendations for sealed enclosure size for Scan Speak 15wu mids? thanks


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## minbari

how much does all that deadener weigh?


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## SkizeR

minbari said:


> how much does all that deadener weigh?


not to much. Ant was selling B-stock my the pound and i bought 45lbs which he said was about 75-80sq feet. im not concerned for weight anyway.


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## shawnk

SkizeR said:


> working on her some more today until midnight with my friend mattei. is this enough deadener for the hatch or should i use more? also any recommendations for sealed enclosure size for Scan Speak 15wu mids? thanks


That's a good start imo. I wouldn't put any more until/if you find it necessary when the system is up and running.


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## shawnk

I have found it much more important to track down and eliminate noisy culprits than to just do a blanket cover with cld. Pay close attention to things like: levers , latches, loomed wiring, places where plastic panels and clips meet the framework for the vehicle etc... Duct seal and strip caulk can be your best friend here


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## fast4door

looks awesome I love those cars I had a 1990 back in 1993 and just drove the wheels off of it..


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## shawnk

SkizeR said:


> also any recommendations for sealed enclosure size for Scan Speak 15wu mids? thanks


Take a look here: The Madisound Speaker Store

looks like you can get away with a *very* small 0.15cuft sealed enclosure


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## SkizeR

shawnk said:


> Take a look here: The Madisound Speaker Store
> 
> looks like you can get away with a *very* small 0.15cuft sealed enclosure


wow cant believe i missed that. thanks.


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## captainobvious

Exactly what Shawn said above. 

Looks like you have plenty. If you tap the panel and hear anything but a dead sound, apply in trouble areas. 

As for the 15wu Scan Illuminators, you should be good with 0.15cu ft / 4.25 liters sealed.

edit: for some reason the last few posts didn't show up before I posted this. Looks like you have your answer


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## SkizeR

update:

finally got all the pedals, heater and ac parts, and other random pieces off the firewall last night. 

heater finally ripped out:



























Mattei being an *******..









steering column gasket thing removed:









Removing the ECU:









FINALLY AT THE FIREWALL!









ripping that **** out..









getting her sparkly clean and ready for deadener:









what im working with..










That was it for the night. i think we got a lot done considering we started at 9 30 and finished at 12 30. Since its nice out today im going to be removing some of the equipment from my other car and get it all ready for when it goes in. Not quite sure when that will be though. Hopefully soon.


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## SkizeR

family portrait..


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## RNBRAD

shawnk said:


> I have found it much more important to track down and eliminate noisy culprits than to just do a blanket cover with cld. Pay close attention to things like: levers , latches, loomed wiring, places where plastic panels and clips meet the framework for the vehicle etc... Duct seal and strip caulk can be your best friend here


^^^ this is really key. You can lay down all the deadener in the world and not address the "problem" spots. You could work yourself to death focusing on every little detail and still not get it. Once your all done you will likely have to go back to some key area's and address vibrations with things that are beyond just sticking a CLD tile to. Sometimes it takes creativity and a number of different deadening tactics. Known things that most will benefit from like panel clips- I either use acoustic foam and cut a little 1 x 1'' square with a slit in the middle for the clip, or use rubber or foam washers around each retainer clip providing a cushion between the plastic and metal door frame. Also acoustic foam or egg crate material is great to fill those dead areas like the hollow footwells and the hollow spaces around wheel wells. I also use it on the inside of my door panels. Works wonders. Those are just things in addition to the cld work.


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## ibf150

Tuned in for this, always wanted one of those Zs


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## JayinMI

Is the dustcap siliconed on on one of those FI's?

Jay


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## strong*I*bumpin

Sure looks that way to me


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## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> Is the dustcap siliconed on on one of those FI's?
> 
> Jay


Epoxy lol.. one day when I had them out of the box I had it run off my aq2200d and played some test tones and really pushed it passed its limits and it loosened the duscap somehow and cracked it.. so I just exoxied it. That's the older version of the Fi Q anyway and I'm getting another v2 shortly to match the other one. If anyone wants to make an offer on it feel free since I won't be using it soon

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


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## SkizeR

wellpp, got some work done tonight and just finished. I deadened the whole firewall and got some sound proofing done. Heres some pics..

cut some SPL 08 and did a test fit..










Traced onto the AK10 and cut out..









both were put on..


























Same thing for driver side under the steering wheel..


















Foam on transmission well..









AK10 over the SPL 08










Thats it for the night. Tomorrow i will get that finished and run wires


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## captainobvious

Looking good. Keep up the progress


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## Thunderplains

Great job man.. If you r going to deaden, then you are the example of the way it should be done.. Wish I had the time to do the firewall, but the daily life would not allow for it.. Can't wait to hear the feedback on how much the sound diminished..


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## south east customz

Looking good Nick!


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## SkizeR

thanks guys i really appreciate it! And Greg i know u said to not bother with the spl foam between the cld and ak but i just did it for good measure.


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## SkizeR

forgot to post pics of cld on the firewall.. will post that soon.


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## SkizeR

AlphaDamp on the firewall..

****ty cell phone pic









where the heater core was..




























i added about 2 and a half sheets to the whole firewall after these pics so its even more covered than you can see..


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## SkizeR

Little update.. finished the firewall this afternoon.

my little helper for the day..









Finished the firewall.


























On to the transmission well..

test fit









cut and applied









got all around the e-brake covered..

























final..


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## decibelle

Seeing this makes me wish I had a place to dump the interior and do a solid deadening job like you have. Very well done!

BTW, I'll get those tweaker pads to you soon, hang in there


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## edzyy

millerlyte said:


> Seeing this makes me wish I had a place to dump the interior and do a solid deadening job like you have. Very well done!
> 
> BTW, I'll get those tweaker pads to you soon, hang in there


Sigh

Living in an apartment in NYC made this damn near impossible.


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## bbfoto

Looks great. Doing it right!


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## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> Sigh
> 
> Living in an apartment in NYC made this damn near impossible.


im only 25 miles away.. come borrow my garage!


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## SkizeR

millerlyte said:


> Seeing this makes me wish I had a place to dump the interior and do a solid deadening job like you have. Very well done!
> 
> BTW, I'll get those tweaker pads to you soon, hang in there


Thanks again. And I don't really have room either I just threw it all in my basement which is already filled with other stuff.. needless to say my parents weren't to happy.


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## SkizeR

update from the past few days..

started making speaker rings for tweets and mids yesterday afternoon..




























Started running the power wire. (tech flexed in white).




















before..









after.. pretty messy. oh well. it will work for now










i love my side skirts 










New wheels coming soon..




























when Mattei finally showed up we started routing the speaker rings....... at 10 30 PM. My neighbors must LOVE me 




















Ghetto routing table (2 old sub boxes lol)











After that we started putting the firewalls insulation and pedals back on.











Community love!











Thats it for that night. Today i started getting the A-pillars ready and ripped all the wires out of my other car and tech flexed them.










pillars all sanded..















































Thats it for tonight. More tomorrow!!


****I AM LOOKING TO BUY A ZAPCO SLIDN T.N. RCA TO SYMBILINK ADAPTER AND A HIGH QUALITY RCA****


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## l a r r y

Nice job bruh, like others have said, I LOVE THE Z's, especially this body style. I've been dreaming of a twin turbo, but can't pull myself to drop 10-15k on one


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## bmiller1

From the ground up! Love this build, man. Nice work.


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## SkizeR

l a r r y said:


> Nice job bruh, like others have said, I LOVE THE Z's, especially this body style. I've been dreaming of a twin turbo, but can't pull myself to drop 17-20k on one


Thanks man. I really appreciate it. But where did you get the idea of 17-20k? TT models (I'm actually swapping it with a twin turbo engine I bought a few weeks ago after this build is done) go for like 6k on average now. Hell, between alllllll my equipment, the engine, the mods that are going on the engine, and the car itself cost less or close to 20k.


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## SkizeR

bmiller1 said:


> From the ground up! Love this build, man. Nice work.


Thanks. Sorry for taking so long BTW.. things have been delaying me.


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## bmiller1

SkizeR said:


> Thanks. Sorry for taking so long BTW.. things have been delaying me.


It's all good man. Is the R12 going in there?


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## win1

Sub'd


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## SkizeR

bmiller1 said:


> It's all good man. Is the R12 going in there?


yes sir..


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## SkizeR

ACCIDENTALLY DELETED SOME PHOTOS AS YOU CAN SEE ABOVE.. here they are after i re uploaded them





SkizeR said:


> update:
> 
> finally got all the pedals, heater and ac parts, and other random pieces off the firewall last night.
> 
> heater finally ripped out:
> 
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> Mattei being an *******..
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> steering column gasket thing removed:
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> Removing the ECU:
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> FINALLY AT THE FIREWALL!
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> ripping that **** out..
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> getting her sparkly clean and ready for deadener:
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> what im working with..
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> 
> That was it for the night. i think we got a lot done considering we started at 9 30 and finished at 12 30. Since its nice out today im going to be removing some of the equipment from my other car and get it all ready for when it goes in. Not quite sure when that will be though. Hopefully soon.


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## SkizeR

Update from today.. 

Kept working on the a-pillars. I put the dash in place to get a reference point of where i can place the tweeters. 











since i removed the heater and ac there is soooo much room under there. almost makes me want to keep it that way for a sub enclosure.



















Mounting rings epoxied onto a-pillars. (yes i realize they look like they are cut like crap.. i shaved areas down to leave clearance between the dash and windshield.)



















preview..










All wrapped and ready for glass..


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## mattyjman

SkizeR said:


>


i'm sorry, did you say someone brought a router????? 

no offense man, but I've seen better jigsaw freehand than that. a circle jig might cost you 20 bucks, but it makes stuff like this ^ much better... and easier when it comes to finish things like your pillars... the shape you have on these is the same shape your pillars will be after stretching cloth... all that means is you'll have a lot more finishing work to do when all is said and done. clean circles, especially when it comes to pillar jobs = less sanding, more listening  

just my opinion though... ymmv


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## SkizeR

if you read the above post you would know the answer as to why they look like that

and that wont be the final shape of the a-pillars. thats just something to hold it up


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## quietfly

looking good, can't wait to see the end result


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## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> looking good, can't wait to see the end result


your only 10 or so miles from me.. come see it in person!


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## Thunderplains

If I was still in CT, I would come by to help out.. love doing this crap.


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## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> If I was still in CT, I would come by to help out.. love doing this crap.


where did ya go to? i could use all the help i can get considering i reallllly want to finish this before the Syracuse Customs comp.


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## Boostedrex

So are you leaving the heater core and AC out of the car??

You've been making some really good progress on this. A++ work on the deadening!


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## SkizeR

Boostedrex said:


> So are you leaving the heater core and AC out of the car??
> 
> You've been making some really good progress on this. A++ work on the deadening!


thanks man. and ive been thinking about it. the ac is getting deleted anyway. the heat i really dont want to get rid of because of obvious reasons, but tneres a few problems.. 1) my friend snapped the bracket holding it to the firewall, 2) theres so many little pieces that had to come off to get it out (like springs, little pins, other random **** that is probably long gone because my dad cleaned the garage and threw a lot of stuff out. so it might stay out and have a little somethin go there


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## Avaric3

SkizeR said:


> thanks man. and ive been thinking about it. the ac is getting deleted anyway. the heat i really dont want to get rid of because of obvious reasons, but tneres a few problems.. 1) my friend snapped the bracket holding it to the firewall, 2) theres so many little pieces that had to come off to get it out (like springs, little pins, other random **** that is probably long gone because my dad cleaned the garage and threw a lot of stuff out. so it might stay out and have a little somethin go there


unless this car is garaged in the winter, youll QUICKLY regret taking out your heater core for a NY car. im in nj and couldn't imagine not having heat, despite not having ac in my ride for 3.5 years now


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## SkizeR

Avaric3 said:


> unless this car is garaged in the winter, youll QUICKLY regret taking out your heater core for a NY car. im in nj and couldn't imagine not having heat, despite not having ac in my ride for 3.5 years now


yeah thats my main concern.


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## Thunderplains

SkizeR said:


> yeah thats my main concern.


Hey man, other thing you need to remember, is that the heater core is PART of your engines cooling system. It is alot more a part of your car than A/C


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## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> Hey man, other thing you need to remember, is that the heater core is PART of your engines cooling system. It is alot more a part of your car than A/C


That's true but I have an upgraded radiator going in with the swap so I'm not to worried. I want to put it back though its just sooooooooo tempting to put a sub there


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## Boostedrex

Thunderplains said:


> Hey man, other thing you need to remember, is that the heater core is PART of your engines cooling system. It is alot more a part of your car than A/C


This was my main concern about your choice to delete the heater core as well. Not having this to help drop the coolant temps in your car, even with an upgraded radiator, could cause issues. I know in the RX-7 world there is no way I would consider deleting the heater core for that 1 reason. Just some food for thought.


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## SkizeR

Free 10" IDQ v2 Subs for whoever can help me get a some of this done! Any takers? I need this done by saturday!


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## minbari

Boostedrex said:


> This was my main concern about your choice to delete the heater core as well. Not having this to help drop the coolant temps in your car, even with an upgraded radiator, could cause issues. I know in the RX-7 world there is no way I would consider deleting the heater core for that 1 reason. Just some food for thought.


but when you turn the heat all the way to "cold", doesnt that shut off the heater core entirely? other than if you start to overheat and notice it, you can turn the heat on to help cool it.


(I still wouldnt do it, I hate being cold)


----------



## 07azhhr

minbari said:


> but when you turn the heat all the way to "cold", doesnt that shut off the heater core entirely? other than if you start to overheat and notice it, you can turn the heat on to help cool it.
> 
> 
> (I still wouldnt do it, I hate being cold)


 
No it does not shut the heater core off. When you have the heat on the air flowing thru the HVAC box is directed to pass thru the fins of the heater core. When you move the switch to the cold position an internal wall/deflector is turned to direct the air at and thru the evaporator insted. The coolant that runs thru the heater core does not stop flowing thru the heater core though. Some cars have a coolant bypass valve before the heater core that prevents the coolant flow thru the core while the engine is warming up. Once the engine is warmed up the bypass valve will open and allow the coolant to flow thru the heater core. From there on out until the engine is shut off the coolant stays flowing thru the core. 

But unless you are directing the air over the heater core it does not aide in cooling the engine other then just added coolant volumn. This is because it resides in a box and it's own heat is stuck in that box.


----------



## 94VG30DE

07azhhr said:


> But unless you are directing the air over the heater core it does not aide in cooling the engine other then just added coolant volume. This is because it resides in a box and it's own heat is stuck in that box.


Good information. OP should not disregard added coolant volume though, especially going through a heat exchanger element. Even without active airflow over the exchanger fins, there is still δT between fluid and outside air.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Good information. OP should not disregard added coolant volume though, especially going through a heat exchanger element. Even without active airflow over the exchanger fins, there is still δT between fluid and outside air.


Well I'm gonna find a way to get it back in so its alright


----------



## SkizeR

my to-do list to finish by saturday night..


----------



## unemployedconsumer

Would gladly come and help out if I was anywhere near you. Your build is one of the ones on here I keep checking for updates, can't wait to see it done.


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> my to-do list to finish by saturday night..



you forgot make sure no parts are "extra" :laugh:


----------



## 07azhhr

94VG30DE said:


> Good information. OP should not disregard added coolant volume though, especially going through a heat exchanger element. Even without active airflow over the exchanger fins, there is still δT between fluid and outside air.


The heater core does not get exposed to the outside air though. It sits inside the HVAC box under the dash in an sealed chamber that is not much bigger then it is. The heat that it itself gives off has no where to go and will be stuck surrounding the heater core. It is also so small that it only adds a quart or two of coolant. The lines that feed it and leave it are in the engine bay and are very short so there is not much added plumbing volumn once bypassed. It truely does not have any effect on cooling unless the heater is on.


----------



## JVD240

No heater core is also hell if you ever drive your car in the rain... Hahha. Ask me how I know. Leave it in. I'd leave AC as well. 

I was once one of those guys that thought the more stuff I got rid of the better my car would be. I ended up missing all of that stuff and regretted ripping it out. 

Why would you ditch the AC in the first place? Doesn't it get hot in NJ?


----------



## 07azhhr

Avaric3 said:


> unless this car is garaged in the winter, youll QUICKLY regret taking out your heater core for a NY car. im in nj and couldn't imagine not having heat, despite not having ac in my ride for 3.5 years now


This is the best reason for keeping the core. I have driven cars with the heater core bypassed and I can also attest to this sucking. I did not even live in a snow belt area like NY. 

In reality the heater core idea came about as a FREE way to generate heat in the passanger compartment. It was not designed to be something that helps keep the engine cool. It was realized that the coolant is hot and if you blow air across it you can make hot air basically for free in the sense of HP losses.


----------



## edzyy

No AC? You're gonna regret that on a brutal 95 degree day. 

All that road noise from the windows being down is gonna interfere with your setup big time.


----------



## SkizeR

i have never had ac in my other car and it never bothered me much. Plus T-tops baby!


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> you forgot make sure no parts are "extra" :laugh:


also forgot to add "contemplate suicide" (kidding for all you people who cant take a joke), "ask myself: why the **** would anyone ever do this for fun", and lastly "ask myself: why would i spend this much time and money on something that has little to no reward" lol


----------



## quietfly

come on, now your making it sound like marriage. BTW i have not left the office yet. today kind of sucks...


----------



## 07azhhr

edzyy said:


> No AC? You're gonna regret that on a brutal 95 degree day.
> 
> All that road noise from the windows being down is gonna interfere with your setup big time.


 
Haha. When I had my convertible I would drive with the top down until it got past 106*. So once July came around the top stayed up during the day but nights it went right back down lol.


----------



## phxdemon

edzyy said:


> No AC? You're gonna regret that on a brutal 95 degree day.
> 
> All that road noise from the windows being down is gonna interfere with your setup big time.


95 degrees sounds like nice weather :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

phxdemon said:


> 95 degrees sounds like nice weather :laugh:


exactly lol


----------



## SkizeR

alright guys, havent gotten much done because ive been sick the past 5 days or so. ive got a lot to do. ive been really restricted by my garage. i cant get anything done in there. no room to even stand without hitting something. ive realized the only way to get this car done in such a small space is to do it slowly, piece by piece, and as organized as possible (kinda late for that since my garage and basement looks like a bomb went off. ive decided to change a few things around due to physical limitations inside the car. 1) the mids are going in the doors along with the midbass because theyre to big. 2) i will be reviewing the sundown sd-2 subs in another car because theres no room for them with my Fi's and all 6 amps in a 2 seater hatchback. and 3) the most recent topic of discussion, the heater core is going in, but the fan and ac assembly are not for a few reasons. a lot of the parts that hold them all together are finally, after 23 years are falling apart. im going to make a custom fan, most likely out of a big computer fan or two, just to get some sort of heat circulation. the reason i really dont care to much about having it all put back together is because i have another car and am probably selling that for a better daily car and this can be a "hobby car" as dad calls it lol. 

since i have a lot to do i gotta ask, here the hell do i start. 

.build enclosures into the doors for the mids
.mount mid-bass
.build new dash bezel as the car didnt come with any hardware to mount a head unit to and was missing the radio (anyone ever do this? all help is appreciated)
.run signal wires
make a "display box" of some sort to house the symbilink transmitters (i have some ocd where i need to see if theyre clipping. dont ask lol)
.run speaker wire
.put dash back together
.build sub box, amp racks and such 

where do you guys suggest i start first. every time i go to work on the car theres just so much to do i get stressed and just go back inside


----------



## captainobvious

Hang in there bro. It's a long haul. I feel your pain as I'm not even begun on mine. I'm still in the planning stages. 
I would take the hardest part and nail it down first. After you complete something like that, the rest is at least "easier". Don't think of it as having to get it all done at once. When you start out on a given day, set a goal for something to complete and chip away. Thats how I managed to complete this project (link below). I had never attempted many of the things I needed to do to complete them. (auto paint and clearcoat, wetsanding and polishing a paint finish like that, veneering, routing, etc). You'll get there, just chip away at the project and before you know it you'll be making great progress!

My (in progress) project *pics too*



.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Hang in there bro. It's a long haul. I feel your pain as I'm not even begun on mine. I'm still in the planning stages.
> I would take the hardest part and nail it down first. After you complete something like that, the rest is at least "easier". Don't think of it as having to get it all done at once. When you start out on a given day, set a goal for something to complete and chip away. Thats how I managed to complete this project (link below). I had never attempted many of the things I needed to do to complete them. (auto paint and clearcoat, wetsanding and polishing a paint finish like that, veneering, routing, etc). You'll get there, just chip away at the project and before you know it you'll be making great progress!
> 
> My (in progress) project *pics too*
> 
> 
> 
> .


thanks man. sucks i wont see yours at syracuse tomorrow

edit: i see you play hockey? (one of the pics in your build log). i used to play. all the way since i was 5 till high school


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

phxdemon said:


> 95 degrees sounds like nice weather :laugh:


Still snowing here


Keep it up OP!


----------



## Golden Ear

Subd. Congrats on finally getting this build started. Hope you're feeling better and...git er done!


----------



## crx4luke

Honestly at this point with everything out I think this is the time where the wiring should go in. You have all of the plans laid out to where you are putting everything. Get all of the wiring done, then probably start getting the dash put back in. Those are probably two of the best places to start. 

I've been enjoying watching this build. Keep up the good work and try not to let the mountain of work get you off focus. If you have to put it all down on a list somewhere to keep it organized. Do it that way you know what needs to be done, and you can cross things off as you do them. Good luck. My build starts within the next couple of weeks.


----------



## RandyJ75

1993 Nissan 300zx Service Repair Manual Download.pdf download - 2shared

Check this out, it should help you put you heater back together, as others have said, after that just make a list.


----------



## shawnk

Yeah man. Don't stress yourself out... it's only car audio after all

Take your time and it *WILL* get done! 

Especially considering this is your own project (not for a client) the best advice I can give you is just to be patient and enjoy the build. That's half the fun afterall!!


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> thanks man. sucks i wont see yours at syracuse tomorrow
> 
> edit: i see you play hockey? (one of the pics in your build log). i used to play. all the way since i was 5 till high school


I used to, yeah. Nothing high level though. I played street hockey as a kid and in some leagues as an adult, but I havent played in years. Playing more Volleyball now and tennis and less basketball and football. I guess age is creeping up now...


----------



## bark424

I'm very impressed with what you're doing. I've worked in an auto assembly plant for 24 years and know what its like to take a car apart and put it back together. Good luck, I'd like to hear a system like yours someday but don't know where around here.


----------



## SkizeR

bark424 said:


> I'm very impressed with what you're doing. I've worked in an auto assembly plant for 24 years and know what its like to take a car apart and put it back together. Good luck, I'd like to hear a system like yours someday but don't know where around here.


thanks man. it sure has been rough. and honestly i was in the same spot you were until yesterday (being able to hear a GOOD system.) i went out to the Syracuse Customs competition and it was so cool. got to meet a bunch of guys from this forum andd finally heard some REAL systems. needless to say, i didnt know music can sound that good. if you check in the 12volt events section of the forum there might be an event near you to check some out like i did. funny story actually, what got me into sound quality was when i somehow stumbled onto this website and saw BowDown's build log (check it out, its nuts), and i saw all this crazy fabrication and weird rectangle things in his a-pillars (plannar tweeters) and i was hooked.. 2 years later i met him in person and had the chance to listen to that same car.


----------



## mrvrsick

I'm a lurker, but I'm 100% stoked for you and this build.

Keep at it.


----------



## req

right on bro. i dont know how i missed your build log.

keep working hard - but like matty said, even though those pillars are that way to clear the glass, getting them as perfect as possible from the get-go will aliveate lots of work in the end.

this picture is what i noticed the most;










i think you stretched it out and fixed it - but that wrinkle on the face will make your life hell if you glass it like that.

also, to make your life a hell of a lot easier, buy yourself a few types of CA glue (cyanoacrylate... its super glue) and accelerator instead of using epoxy. it makes things much much easier when the glue dries in 5 seconds


----------



## SkizeR

req said:


> right on bro. i dont know how i missed your build log.
> 
> keep working hard - but like matty said, even though those pillars are that way to clear the glass, getting them as perfect as possible from the get-go will aliveate lots of work in the end.
> 
> this picture is what i noticed the most;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you stretched it out and fixed it - but that wrinkle on the face will make your life hell if you glass it like that.
> 
> also, to make your life a hell of a lot easier, buy yourself a few types of CA glue (cyanoacrylate... its super glue) and accelerator instead of using epoxy. it makes things much much easier when the glue dries in 5 seconds


that was before i finished wrapping it just to get a pic (blame the A.D.D lol).. that part was cut offf anyway.. this is it now







































Sorry for ****ty phone pics


----------



## SkizeR

mrvrsick said:


> I'm a lurker, but I'm 100% stoked for you and this build.
> 
> Keep at it.


Thanks man. Don't be a lurker. That's never fun


----------



## Golden Ear

Nice job on those!


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Nice job on those!


thanks. I'm going to re do them though. I got a little bit of glue on one part and I wanna try adding some foam behind it. I think it'll help the suede go around the contours easier and look cleaner with it underneath


----------



## SkizeR

finallllyyy pushed the 300 out of the garage today. you wouldnt believe how much more i was able to do compared to that crammed space. interesting and exciting pics later..


----------



## SkizeR

And one more thing. I need opinions.. keep the rims the natural aluminum color, or powder coat matte white, or gloss white...


----------



## shutmdown

SkizeR said:


> And one more thing. I need opinions.. keep the rims the natural aluminum color, or powder coat matte white, or gloss white...


keep them aluminum. but at the end of the day its your car. 
btw where'd you pick up the suede for your a pillars? and how hard was it to work with the suede?


----------



## SkizeR

shutmdown said:


> keep them aluminum. but at the end of the day its your car.
> btw where'd you pick up the suede for your a pillars? and how hard was it to work with the suede?


I might try it with plastidip first to see if I like it. And I picked it up online. I forget the exact website but it was 5 bucks a yard. It ISNT sun proof though so I will have to treat it with a UV protector. And its pretty hard. I've never wrapped before but it didn't seem hard. This stuff has literally next to no stretch. The a pillars were so damn hard. I might have to re-do them for a third time


----------



## edzyy

I'd go with different rims all together

Something with a lip and low offset

IE


----------



## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> I'd go with different rims all together
> 
> Something with a lip and low offset
> 
> IE


Not in the budget at the moment


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

SkizeR said:


> Not in the budget at the moment


Looks ghey

Your car looks much better


----------



## SkizeR

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> Looks ghey
> 
> Your car looks much better


Thanks. I'm cleaning up for the day right now. Pics soon

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## edzyy

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> Looks ghey
> 
> Your car looks much better


bad example i guess

how about?









Current rims are cool

I'd space em out a lil so they'd be more flush with the fender


----------



## captainobvious

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> Looks ghey
> 
> Your car looks much better


Totally agree. Way too low and toed in. Looks absolutely horrible.

Gunmetal grey would look great on your rims though Skizer.


----------



## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> bad example i guess
> 
> how about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Current rims are cool
> 
> I'd space em out a lil so they'd be more flush with the fender


I have 30mm spacers in my basement.. would that be enough? 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## edzyy

30 might stick 'em out too much, lol. 

Think i have 4 and 8 on mine


----------



## xt577

Just curious, is the large flange left on the tweeters because it helps create a dimension for a proper enclosure?


----------



## SkizeR

xt577 said:


> Just curious, is the large flange left on the tweeters because it helps create a dimension for a proper enclosure?


lower resonant frequency. and yes there is also a chamber in the back


----------



## SkizeR

alright guys.. today was a gorgeous day so i had to jump on the opportunity to get her out of the garage. since the ecu is out me and my mom had to push it out lol.. 




also had to jump on the opportunity to get some nice pics of her..










well lets get started.. since i found out the mids wont fit in the dash i had no idea what the hell i was gunna do. there is no where else to put them in this car. then i saw the door card sitting on the garage floor and noticed the heat/ac vent by the handle and it hit me like a ton of bricks... out comes the vent, in goes mr scanspeak. :laugh:

test fit..



i forgot to take a pic of me making the vents hole a little bigger by cutting it out with my new dremel (i decided to get the Dremel 3000.. great tool)






taped the speaker up and threw some epoxy on the ring and attached it to the door card







i later reinforced it with a few dowel rods.. forgot to get pics.


measured up the door card and drew up an estimate of where to cut.. took a few tries :laugh:




new dremel cut it like a hot knife through butter 
i knew i should have work a dust mask for this.. but me being me, i didnt and im paying for it now. as i typed the last few sentences i went to blow my nose because of my allergies and BAM.. i could not tell you the amount of blood that came out. so gross.. back on topic.......




prep for fiberglass



glassed:



heater core also was put back in..


----------



## SkizeR

next up was prepping the door card for the enclosure..







glassed..







both pieces trimmed..








MORE TOMORROW!


----------



## quietfly

cool, nice to see the progress. I still have to make out there. between work and travel my ass has been getting kicked lately


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> cool, nice to see the progress. I still have to make out there. between work and travel my ass has been getting kicked lately


come to the next syracuse comp.


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> since the ecu is out me and my mom had to push it out lol..


This is possibly the most amazing statement I have ever read on this forum.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> This is possibly the most amazing statement I have ever read on this forum.


i'll add something to that statement to make it even better... "me and my mom who has a broken foot at the moment had to push it out".. better? lmao


----------



## Mr. C

edzyy said:


> bad example i guess
> 
> how about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Current rims are cool
> 
> I'd space em out a lil so they'd be more flush with the fender


Those look much better than the ones first posted on the red 300.

I used to have Konig Villains on my Nissan too. Love them. Plasti-dip them gloss white & see how you feel about them. I think they'll look good. My white Nissan has OEM rims powdercoated white.


----------



## 04silverz

Keep rims as is. But im not a fan of white rims in general.

Njce job man. Keep at it. I dont know how you guys do it. I getfrustrated after simple running of wire though i do enjoy building boxes. 

Cant wait to see this finished. And nice gear!


----------



## SkizeR

04silverz said:


> Keep rims as is. But im not a fan of white rims in general.
> 
> Njce job man. Keep at it. I dont know how you guys do it. I getfrustrated after simple running of wire though i do enjoy building boxes.
> 
> Cant wait to see this finished. And nice gear!


thanks man. and trust me, ive been more than frustrated with some parts of this install


----------



## 07azhhr

Skize - What made you decide to put the Scans in that location? Your drivers side one is going to be very close to you.


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> Skize - What made you decide to put the Scans in that location? Your drivers side one is going to be very close to you.


yeah i know.. luckily the cabin is VERY small so the other one isnt to far away. but the reason why its going there is very simple. its the ONLY somewhat realistic spot to put them. i wanted to put them in the kicks but theres a fuse panel built into the driver side kick area thats in the way and wouldnt be possible to move. also the passenger side has a very similar fuse panel AND the ECU and a few other things that im not sure of what they are. they are way to big for the a-pillars. and dash was explained above :/ 

any ideas before i completely commit?


----------



## req

i say no to white. dirty too fast and will look horrible after you drive for 20 minutes.


gunmetal or black. either that or a complimentary color to orange of some kind.

orange and - Google Search


----------



## Golden Ear

req said:


> i say no to white. dirty too fast and will look horrible after you drive for 20 minutes.
> 
> 
> gunmetal or black. either that or a complimentary color to orange of some kind.
> 
> orange and - Google Search


I agree with req, gunmetal looks sick!


----------



## SkizeR

I think I'm just going to keep it as is


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Awesome build! Looking forward to more pics!


----------



## SkizeR

more pics from the past hour or so.. i put one of the wheel spacers on. man did i underestimate 30mm lol :laugh:

BEFORE:




AFTER:




anyone in the tristate area have a fender roller i can borrow?


----------



## captainobvious

I hate to discourage, but...Is it impossible to get the Illuminators in the stock door spot by enlarging it and building out the baffle? That's going to be very dificult to integrate them in that high location on the door for several reasons. First, the PLD's will be very far off so getting good imaging will be very difficult (or impossible). Second, those drivers move alot of air and will excite the hell out of that door panel. Third, with it so close to the window, I'd be worried about moisture issues. 

While you have it apart, I'd do it right and get those installed somewhere else.

That said, hows the progress going? Looking forward to more updates!


----------



## SkizeR

i have either anarchies or intimid8rs going in the doors. im not sure where else to put them.. in the kicks would be almost impossible. a pillars or dash are impossible. i might just try the kicks


----------



## edzyy

SkizeR said:


> more pics from the past hour or so.. i put one of the wheel spacers on. man did i underestimate 30mm lol :laugh:
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone in the tristate area have a fender roller i can borrow?


holy 4x4

I rolled my fenders doing the yellowpages trick


----------



## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> holy 4x4
> 
> I rolled my fenders doing the yellowpages trick


I actually just rolled em today with an eastwood roller. Pics later

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fordriver1

yeah its easy to get the offset guestimate wrong. i did the same thing with mine and had to ease it back to get the tyre back in the guard...


----------



## SkizeR

sorry its been so long since an update. i havent had much time to work on it and the weather has been **** the times that i do, like this whole weekend. heres whats been going on with it..
1) i had a lug nut that i couldnt get off and spend days trying to get it off.. i eventually called a friend with an oxy-acetylene torch and we melted it off.
2) after i got the wheel off and tires on, etc.. i went back to relocating the fuse box that is in the drivers side kick panel area.. 



other than that i ordered my last few pieces of equiptment.. 2 Morel Ultimo 12's.. one from the user salad fingers, and another from a shop in NYC called Auto Design. very cool shop. they dont even bother with basic installs unless its a very high end car. they mostly do custom fabrication for exotic cars and thats mostly it..
also im trying to decide on an amp for the DIYMA r12.. i can get a brand new zapco DC 750.2 for 300 bucks and get 500 watts to it, or a Zapco DC 500.1 and get 350 watts to it for 200 bucks.. havent really decided yet


----------



## quality_sound

More power is ALWAYS better.


----------



## optimaprime

Love these cars and your choice of gear


----------



## SkizeR

quality_sound said:


> More power is ALWAYS better.


yes i know but its another 100 dollars and im reading that the diyma r12 is very fragile. that thing is literally precious to me lol



optimaprime said:


> Love these cars and your choice of gear


thanks mayne. i should be done with the deadener within a week


----------



## optimaprime

Sweet I get paid at end of the week!


----------



## SkizeR

UPDATE!!!

started re-locating my fuseboxes so i can get have room for kick panels.. didnt get as many pics as i should have but oh well. all connectors were cut and lengthened about 3 feet. all connections were soldered and heat shrinked, then heat shrunk again, then techflexed.

started on a rainy day -___-





getting relocated under the dash..









this goes on the passenger side.. had to cut off part of the right side. (didnt get a "before pic")








also found this at home depot.. no more sanding to frost plexi-glass!!!


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> also found this at home depot.. no more sanding to frost plexi-glass!!!
> 
> http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/iamskizer/media/IMG_6221_zps2c2dca81.jpg.html


Is this a paint that goes over the top of the plastic, or a chemical etch that eats into the plastic?


----------



## quietfly

MOAR UPDATS


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Is this a paint that goes over the top of the plastic, or a chemical etch that eats into the plastic?


paint. you can get etch though but its very dangerous. its called Etch Bath. you can get it at ac moore. very sketchy to work with. not gunna lie i used to use it to tag bus stops lol


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> MOAR UPDATS


i had all of today to work on it, and guess what.... ITS ****ING POURING AGAIN!!!!!!!!


----------



## robert_wrath

Sucks to live in the North East, especially in the Summer. High Humidity & sink pouring rain.


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> i had all of today to work on it, and guess what.... ITS ****ING POURING AGAIN!!!!!!!!




i know remember when it rains on you it rains on me too.....

although i spent the weekend filling up a dumpster in the rain


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> i know remember when it rains on you it rains on me too.....
> 
> although i spent the weekend filling up a dumpster in the rain


Can't say I had it that bad haha

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quietfly

Hey its not raining today..... MOAR DOOR PANELS....


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> Hey its not raining today..... MOAR DOOR PANELS....


I actually ordered new, suede door panels, and I'm going a tad bid different route with them. Im picking up an amp or two in the city for dirt cheap today. They have a bunch of zapco DC amps. If anyone wants any I'll pick em up for ya


----------



## 07azhhr

Are you going over to Delta Electronics for those? They are where I got mine and they will beat most any price.


----------



## SkizeR

Yeah man. Just got home actually. Really chill guy. They have so much stuff for cheap man. Just picked up a 750.2 and a big roll of white LED's for 325 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


----------



## optimaprime

dude i tried to call those guys for my dc500.1 and could never get any one to help me. might just order on line.


----------



## optimaprime

i got Buddie of mine who just sent his to 300 zx to Arizona for twin turbo install.


----------



## SkizeR

optimaprime said:


> dude i tried to call those guys for my dc500.1 and could never get any one to help me. might just order on line.


let me guessed.. the asian lady answered lol. ask for raymond and tell him Nick who bought a bunch of his zapco amps sent you.


----------



## SkizeR

optimaprime said:


> i got Buddie of mine who just sent his to 300 zx to Arizona for twin turbo install.


why did he send it alllll the way there?


----------



## SkizeR

need help choosing.. getting wheels in a few days.


----------



## Golden Ear

I like the Rotas better


----------



## edzyy

Rota? 

No. 

Go with the enkei

Just make sure they're wide enough to fill in the wheel wells for a flush look.


----------



## robert_wrath

Careful with the Offsets on them wheels.


----------



## Fricasseekid

Enkei


----------



## 07azhhr

Niether set. Your theme is using top line items for your build on the inside why have your rims look middle or base on the outside? Yes I do know tht both of those rims are from quality companies and do not come at cheap prices but both look cheap. Pick nicer rims to go with the nice install goodies. 

Maintain the theme lol.


----------



## Wy2quiet

Here is my friends old whip. Something like this for rims would look better IMO. It was turbo as well :-D


----------



## quietfly

i love Rota's....


----------



## quietfly

its a nice cool day, you should be getting alot of building done


----------



## Fricasseekid

Sub'd btw


----------



## edzyy

07azhhr said:


> Niether set. Your theme is using top line items for your build on the inside why have your rims look middle or base on the outside? Yes I do know tht both of those rims are from quality companies and do not come at cheap prices but both look cheap. Pick nicer rims to go with the nice install goodies.
> 
> Maintain the theme lol.


Whole diff ball park

A set of good wheels could set him back 5-6k


----------



## 07azhhr

edzyy said:


> Whole diff ball park
> 
> A set of good wheels could set him back 5-6k


There are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many that look far better than the ones he pic'd that are 2k or less.


----------



## Golden Ear

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It's not like he's going to track race the car. If those are the two he's stuck on then help the brotha out and tell him which one of the two look better. Enkei is a great brand but I prefer THE LOOK of the Rota. My $.02


----------



## teldzc1

Out of those two I'd choose the Enkei. I don't know if every width and offset have that concave look though. I have rpf1 s and they don't look good until you hit the 9" width mark regardless of offset.

My favorite wheels for the z32 are the veilside Andrew racing V.


----------



## quietfly

lol those veliside's are like 4k new....... they do look sick though....


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> There are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many that look far better than the ones he pic'd that are 2k or less.


enlighten me and make some recommendations !!!!


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> lol those veliside's are like 4k new....... they do look sick though....


*boner alert*...

but yeah these go for 4k new and dont even seem to be selling anywhere anymore


----------



## SkizeR

dont you love when a trim panels fitment make zero sense when putting them back together


----------



## 07azhhr

Here are two quick examples from performanceplustire.com But between the two you posted I would stick with what you have. Sorry both those just look plain and even though yours look similar to the Enkies I think they look a little better then the Enkies. 


These are 20's but not sure 20's fit for you. But these are only $209 each before tires just to give an idea of what less then 2k can get. 












These are only 18's and only $115 each before tires. Tires for the 18's using 245/xx/18's are in the low to mid $100's so these can be had for around 1k. 












Look at Helo and Platinum for other ideas.


----------



## 07azhhr

Here is another 18 that has no black incase you do not want any lol. $138 each.


----------



## SkizeR

No chrome, no black. Looking for matte silver. Must be 18s (just spent 800 on 18 inch tires). But those first ones are pretty nice


----------



## edzyy

You bought tires before wheels

Biggest mistake ever

i like this one


----------



## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> You bought tires before wheels
> 
> Biggest mistake ever
> 
> i like this one


i bought them for the wheels i have now. i didnt even plan on changing them until recently


----------



## edzyy

Your options are limited now


----------



## Alrojoca

Nice Build!
Does stp spl material substitutes closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl even at 1/8 of a lb per square foot? How does it compare? I'm hesitant to use MLV due to the heat. I understand Stp spl reduces heat


----------



## 07azhhr

SkizeR said:


> No chrome, no black. Looking for matte silver. Must be 18s (just spent 800 on 18 inch tires). But those first ones are pretty nice


Haha the last one looks chrome but is listed as silver.


----------



## 07azhhr

Here is one in silver and is an 18. $224 each.


----------



## 94VG30DE

this thread makes me want to re-buy a Z32 so badly... I think I'm going to have to do something nice for my G35c so it doesn't get jealous.


----------



## teldzc1

edzyy said:


> You bought tires before wheels
> 
> Biggest mistake ever
> 
> i like this one


Looks like Volk TE37. There are a lot off knock offs for these. Check out Varrstoen for some nice replica action.

http://varrstoen.com/products/


----------



## nervewrecker

Nine pages and no pics of the engine bay yet? Common man, show us whats under there 

Nice car btw, will be keeping an eye on how the install progresses.


----------



## RandyJ75

Both wheels look good.


----------



## edzyy

teldzc1 said:


> Looks like Volk TE37. There are a lot off knock offs for these. Check out Varrstoen for some nice replica action.
> 
> Varrstoen | Custom Performance Wheels and Accessories » Products


Those are the varrstoen's


----------



## captainobvious

Any install progress Skizer? Hope all is well.


-Steve


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Any install progress Skizer? Hope all is well.
> 
> 
> -Steve


its going very slowly right now. so much going on and right now im just wrapping panels so theres not much to really take pics of and update.


----------



## Alrojoca

Alrojoca said:


> Nice Build!
> Does stp spl material substitutes closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl even at 1/8 of a lb per square foot? How does it compare? I'm hesitant to use MLV due to the heat. I understand Stp spl reduces heat



Just curious if the choice was made on just weight and cost preference or simply better performance or faith on the product.
Thanks


----------



## SkizeR

working on putting the trunk together right now. one problem. one of the panels just straight up doesnt fit. nothing is even close to lining up on it. it has 3 spots that get held down with screws and another is just a push in clip. when i put it where its supposed to go (left corner right in front of the tail light), and i line it up (remember its in a corner so its completely obvious about exactly how it fits).. when i line it up, the push in clip is about 3 inches off, the screw on the top is 2 inches off, and the screw on the bottom is off. any ideas?


----------



## SkizeR

Here's some pics explaining..

How its supposed to sit..









Top part that gets screwed down..










Bottom part..










Side part (gets screwed into that little grommet)










With the panel next to it in place it won't even have room to fit..



















I need an adult. Lol


----------



## SkizeR

Anyone?


----------



## Fricasseekid

Wrong corner maybe? 

If you need an adult, I'm the blind leading the blind! Lol


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> Wrong corner maybe?
> 
> If you need an adult, I'm the blind leading the blind! Lol


Nope. 100000%positive its that corner. The other side is already in place.


----------



## Fricasseekid

Well, now that we've ruled out all the variables the only conclusion is that your car changed shape.


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> Well, now that we've ruled out all the variables the only conclusion is that your car changed shape.


What you guys don't know, is that my car is a transformer.


----------



## JayinMI

Thus, why there are no engine bay pics. Makes perfect sense now. lol

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> Thus, why there are no engine bay pics. Makes perfect sense now. lol
> 
> Jay


nothing special right now.. just wait till i do the swap though


----------



## SkizeR

all my equipment just collecting dust, waiting for me to hurry my ass up and get them installed..

Pioneer P99rs, Zapco DRC-SL, Zapco amps..



Melodic Acoustic Intimid8rs, Morel Ultimos, and DIYMA R12..



IDQ v2, Scan mids and tweets, Exodus Anarchy (still cant decide between these or the intimid8rs)




headliner wrapped in suede.. 




video walk-through coming soon.


----------



## teldzc1

You going to use p99 or zapco for processing?


----------



## SkizeR

teldzc1 said:


> You going to use p99 or zapco for processing?


both! haha. crossovers probably zapco because the options are literally endless, and eq with the p99 and fine tune with the zapcos


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## bbfoto

Crap equipment choices, dude. Better rethink everything.


----------



## SkizeR

bbfoto said:


> Crap equipment choices, dude. Better rethink everything.


im thinking about switching everything to the new sony xplod line.. :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

engine bay!





ignore that green wire..


----------



## a-minus

Good looking Z man. You just don't see em that clean anymore. I wanted one for a while, but everyone I found around here was trashed.


----------



## SkizeR

a-minus said:


> Good looking Z man. You just don't see em that clean anymore. I wanted one for a while, but everyone I found around here was trashed.


ehh shes not as clean as she looks but its getting there. some paint chips and scratches in the back and some other minor imperfections are keeping it from "mint" status.. one day 
but yeah they are very hard to come by and when you do find em, theyre trashed. i got lucky when i found this one


----------



## SkizeR

video update!

edit: holy dirt on my lens!!..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S37S5a1enY&feature=youtu.be


----------



## bkjay

Nice bro!


----------



## oilman

Since it drives? You need to take it to your local out of the box mobil audio installer and hand them a head unit to install. When they walk out to look at your car you NEED to start filming so we can see their reaction.


----------



## SkizeR

oilman said:


> Since it drives? You need to take it to your local out of the box mobil audio installer and hand them a head unit to install. When they walk out to look at your car you NEED to start filming so we can see their reaction.


hahahahhahhahhahahhahahah dare me?


----------



## Fricasseekid

All the tweet tweets in the background made that video even more pleasant to watch.


----------



## Fricasseekid

SkizeR said:


> hahahahhahhahhahahhahahah dare me?


Yup!


----------



## oilman

WTF with the x2 post


----------



## 07azhhr

Did you ever get this panel problem figured out?

You mentioned that this is how it should sit but it really looks like it should cover all of the white by snuging up against the weather stripping. Or is there another piece for that?


----------



## oilman

Double post dare you


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> Did you ever get this panel problem figured out?
> 
> You mentioned that this is how it should sit but it really looks like it should cover all of the white by snuging up against the weather stripping. Or is there another piece for that?


nope. its literally completely out of place. none of the clips line up. il make another video tomorrow to show you. its very strange. like usually you just gotta use a little elbow grease, but this, i would need to chop up the whole panel to get them to fit. its really putting a hold on this trunk.


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> All the tweet tweets in the background made that video even more pleasant to watch.


i literally thought the same thing when i first watched the video. i guess thats the sound you can pickup with a rode mic.



oilman said:


> Double post date you


****. welp, looks like i gotta invest in camera glasses haha


----------



## 07azhhr

Do you think that perhaps the stuff you just added to the car could be in the way? Can you pull out the mlv and such? I did not notice you say one way or the other but is there something that covers the visible white section?


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> Do you think that perhaps the stuff you just added to the car could be in the way? Can you pull out the mlv and such? I did not notice you say one way or the other but is there something that covers the visible white section?


theres actually no deadener where this is besides 2 pieces of alphadamp on the windshield washer fluid tank and on the metal next to it. its not that it wont pop into place because stuff is in the way. its literally as if all of the clips that push into the body of the car and holes that get screwed down (lol) shifted like 2 inches in any random direction. you can see that on the piece in question, there are 3 distinct parts of it (2, 45 degree angles, and 3 straight parts) very straight forward. when i line up the corners of the panel to the corners of the car, it just doesnt fit plain and simple. now to line up the clips and holes, i literally have to tilt it up, and bend it (a lot). i will get a vid first thing in the AM

edit: oh and also if i just let it sit in the corners like its supposed to, and i try and put the panel next to it that covers the strut tower, it is in the way. its literally like the panel stretched a full 2-3 inches. im completely dumbfounded right now


----------



## 07azhhr

Take the clips off and see if you can get the screw holes to line up. Then try adding one clip at a time.


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> Take the clips off and see if you can get the screw holes to line up. Then try adding one clip at a time.


in order to do that, i need to literally bend the panel to "shorten" it. the one side (pointing towards the front that touches the quarter panel) seems like it grew 3 inches and the other side seems like it shrunk an inch


----------



## 07azhhr

That just doesn't happen. So either the installer is goofing up somewhere or he swapped the right side for the left side. Or he is smoking some good stuff and not sharing lol. Oh and yes I know you are the installer lol.


----------



## 07azhhr

Just thought of this. The front side growing is suggesting that the back section needs to snap in first then the sides should line up.


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> That just doesn't happen. So either the installer is goofing up somewhere or he swapped the right side for the left side. Or he is smoking some good stuff and not sharing lol. Oh and yes I know you are the installer lol.





07azhhr said:


> Just thought of this. The front side growing is suggesting that the back section needs to snap in first then the sides should line up.


just hold comments till tomorrow.. you will see lol


----------



## 07azhhr

I will end up telling you the same things probably. . Like I said things don't just grow. You are doing something wrong. I have worked with many interior panels and sometimes they truely do seem like they do not line up. After ranting and raving then screaming and breaking things, when I try again they usually snap right in like I never had an issue to begin with. What I have learned over the years from this is that I was always doing something wrong.


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> I will end up telling you the same things probably. . Like I said things don't just grow. You are doing something wrong. I have worked with many interior panels and sometimes they truely do seem like they do not line up. After ranting and raving then screaming and breaking things, when I try again they usually snap right in like I never had an issue to begin with. What I have learned over the years from this is that I was always doing something wrong.


we will see


----------



## Fricasseekid

Skiz, I doubt there is anything supernatural going on here. The only logical explanation is that there is something simple you're overlooking. It happens, and when you figure it out you'll probably want you kick yourself in the nuts. The solution is right in front of you.


----------



## nervewrecker

SkizeR said:


> Here's some pics explaining..
> 
> How its supposed to sit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top part that gets screwed down..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom part..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side part (gets screwed into that little grommet)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the panel next to it in place it won't even have room to fit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need an adult. Lol


Did you remove the rubber at anytime? Sure it doesnt fit in under the rubber or that white piece of plastic? 

Engine bay looks nice btw, filled up proper.


----------



## quietfly

so any progress today? it was a nice windy day so i figured you'd get some stuff done!!!


----------



## SkizeR

Double post

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

Started my new job yesterday at in manhattan. Actually just leaving now so nothin today

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2



Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> Started my new job yesterday at in manhattan. Actually just leaving now so nothin today
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


You work??? How's the car gonna get finished now ......


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> You work??? How's the car gonna get finished now ......


how do you think i came up with the money to do this whole audio build AND twin turbo engine swap plus upgrades? collect welfare like half the people in this country? i think not haha


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

SkizeR said:


> how do you think i came up with the money to do this whole audio build AND twin turbo engine swap plus upgrades? collect welfare like half the people in this country? i think not haha


I just asked my dad


----------



## SkizeR

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> I just asked my dad


is that how us kids are supposed to do it?


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

SkizeR said:


> is that how us kids are supposed to do it?


Yeah haha

I'm kidding. He did pay for my wheels though. I offered to pay. He took the money ...but placed it on a jar above the fridge labeled "college"

I used to work 5 days/week. I work 2 now. I've got everything I need. 

Study > Work


----------



## SkizeR

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> Yeah haha
> 
> I'm kidding. He did pay for my wheels though. I offered to pay. He took the money ...but placed it on a jar above the fridge labeled "college"
> 
> I used to work 5 days/week. I work 2 now. I've got everything I need.
> 
> Study > Work


what did you do for work? and how many years of college have you completed?


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> what did you do for work? and how many years of college have you completed?


i'm an engineer, i have 8years of college and 2 sets of letters behind my name.....


you know i was just busting your chopps...


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> i'm an engineer, i have 8years of college and 2 sets of letters behind my name.....
> 
> 
> you know i was just busting your chopps...


honestly i consider myself very lucky that i got a high school diploma.


----------



## sqninja

did you receive my pm i didnt hear back from you. PM me please


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

SkizeR said:


> what did you do for work? and how many years of college have you completed?


Shingled.

I worked my ass off. 

Now I run a porn site.

Kidding! 

Maybe!

Idk who you were directing that towards


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

SkizeR said:


> i'm an engineer, i have 8years of college and 2 sets of letters behind my name.....


Holy batman 8 years? 

Van Wilder, is that you?


----------



## Fricasseekid

How long did you do roofing?


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

Fricasseekid said:


> How long did you do roofing?


4 long summers (Minnesota)

Two summers of tearing & I ran the gun my last two.

I don't mind hard work, but tearing sucked ass period. I had someone lay shingles for me my last two while I ran the gun. That was nice.

Pay was good. No corporate b/s. Took a break when I wanted, ate lunch when I wanted, stayed as long as I wanted, dressed as I wanted, etc... Good group of gentlemen as well.

Now I work part time at Menards. I don't want to sound negative, but I hate all the b/s involved. Oh, yeah & the part where I'm basically being babysat all day.

*I still have nightmares about ice & water


----------



## 94VG30DE

MinnesotaStateUniversity said:


> 4 long summers (Minnesota)
> 
> Two summers of tearing & I ran the gun my last two.


Oh screw roofing. I did one summer of tearing in central IL and will never do that again. Working for a monster of a foreman, I swear he was trying to kill me. Props for making it 4 years.


----------



## jimmybee1108

Got a bare z32 myself im wanting to rebuild. I mean full build. It doesn't have an engine, tranny, hood, bumper, or any interior.  
But. It's got tein electronic coilovers and widened rear fenders  
Guess im gonna follow your install and copy it  
Btw im selling 4 stock turbos.


----------



## SkizeR

jimmybee1108 said:


> Got a bare z32 myself im wanting to rebuild. I mean full build. It doesn't have an engine, tranny, hood, bumper, or any interior.
> But. It's got tein electronic coilovers and widened rear fenders
> Guess im gonna follow your install and copy it
> Btw im selling 4 stock turbos.


change that "stock turbo" to Garret GT600R and id buy all from you haha :laugh:


----------



## DBNathan

nervewrecker said:


> Did you remove the rubber at anytime? Sure it doesnt fit in under the rubber or that white piece of plastic?
> 
> Engine bay looks nice btw, filled up proper.


I have a Zed of my own. That boot lining trim needs to sit right back into the corner, the bottom mount needs to sit over the stud next to its mounting hole.

Hope that helps

Nathan


----------



## SkizeR

small update... WHEELS!


----------



## teldzc1

Nice! What are those? Specs?


----------



## littlemissGTO

Looking good. Did you ever get that trim panel figured out?


----------



## SkizeR

littlemissGTO said:


> Looking good. Did you ever get that trim panel figured out?


kind of. long story but the short story is im blind lol


----------



## littlemissGTO

SkizeR said:


> kind of. long story but the short story is im blind lol


Ahh. I'm sure we've all experienced something like that a time or two.


----------



## RandyJ75

Very nice


----------



## SkizeR

little bit of photoshop gave me a taste of what it will look like when i get my new suspension.. needless to say, this will be my next purchase

before:



after:


----------



## edzyy

gonna look great once it's lowered


----------



## captainobvious

Nice looking wheels!


----------



## Golden Ear

Sweet!


----------



## TheBetterMethod

New wheels are great!

What's up wit the gray fuel door? No offense, but it sticks out like a sore thumb.


----------



## SkizeR

TheBetterMethod said:


> New wheels are great!
> 
> What's up wit the gray fuel door? No offense, but it sticks out like a sore thumb.


they were just never painted with the rest of the car. i actually wrapped both in carbon fiber yesterday


----------



## SkizeR

Considering making almost every panel from scratch. Few reasons for this.. 1) every panel will be covered with some piece of equipment anyway. 2) it can make more room as some of the panels are obnoxiously big for no reason. 3) with all of the extra wiring there is no room to hide it all behind stock panels. ((2) 2/0 gauge power wire runs, all the extended wires from relocating the fuse panels and ecu, 9 runs of thick speaker wire, network and USB wires connecting all zapco amps to the DRC up front, and 7 symbilink cables and an Rca and gain remote... plus other random ones I'm forgetting).. 4) I don't have a lot of the pieces that i need for the stock ones because the car either came with it missing, or my dad threw it out..

any ideas? Tips? How would i even go about making trunk panels from scratch (think scott buwaldas silvia is what im thinking about)


----------



## JayinMI

Well, normally I'd hit the stock panels with some glass and go from there, but clearly that won't work here. lol

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> Well, normally I'd hit the stock panels with some glass and go from there, but clearly that won't work here. lol
> 
> Jay


yeah.. if you look back at the pics of my trunk you can see the panels come over the side and have a lip that is held to the top (hard to explain) but idk how i would replicate those cleanly


----------



## SkizeR

also there hasnt been much worthy to update this thread. all ive been doing is taking care of little stuff like painting trim pieces, cleaning wires, etc.. since my fuel door was painted in primer and i peeled of the CF vinyl i had on it, my boredom kicked in and this is what i ended up with lol.. suede ftw


----------



## JayinMI

Well, I was thinking about it and I'd probably use a combination of poster board and cardboard/wood to shape some new panels. Tape things together to get a shape you want, tape the hell out of it, add some aluminum foil, wax and glass? 

I can picture it in my head, but it's kind of hard to explain. 

Jay


----------



## south east customz

Hey man email me.


----------



## nervewrecker

littlemissGTO said:


> Ahh. I'm sure we've all experienced something like that a time or two.


ditto. 

Glad you got it figured out though man.


----------



## SkizeR

nervewrecker said:


> ditto.
> 
> Glad you got it figured out though man.


well part of my figuring out came from the thought of ditching all the trunk panels and making new ones


----------



## SkizeR

little sneak peak update thanks to my birthfather..


----------



## SkizeR

coilovers coming in the first week of september!


----------



## a-minus

SkizeR said:


> coilovers coming in the first week of september!


Nice! You getting adjustable?


----------



## SkizeR

a-minus said:


> Nice! You getting adjustable?


(SS) SPORT STREET COILOVERS
The POWERTRIX (SS) Sport Street Coilover System is the most complete and fully featured street Coilover kit on the market. Unlike all other entry level units on the market which required the use of the stock shock upper mounts and bushings, the (SS) Sport Street Coilover System is now complete with upper mounting hardware and is now a true complete bolt in system. With our new SS Coilovers, the tedious process of disassembling the stock shock upper mounts and bushings just to find out that you may need to buy new hardware is now non-existent with the installation. These new SS upper mounts are fitted with a synthetic butyl bushing in place of a pillow ball. This bushing combines just enough density to transfer suspension energy properly yet not overly stiff to help with dampening the stiff ride quality that is inherent with conventional race Coilovers and solid pillow ball mounts. 

Also unlike most entry level coilovers, that adjust ride height through spring preload, the POWERTRIX SS adds an extra dimension of adjustment with independent ride height adjustability through the threaded bottom mounting brackets. With this set up it properly separates spring preload and ride height, a feature only found on upper line coilovers. 

Geared for the aggressive everyday street driver with the occasional autocross and road course event, 15 way adjustable strut dampening is valved a notch softer that our full (RT) Road/Track and (UL) Ultra-Lite Road/Track Coilovers. This kit is a formidable track performer as it is the best of both worlds: Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior

Features List:
» Rebuild-able/Replaceable Premium mono-tube forge steel strut Body
» SS upper mounts (for a complete bolt-in solution) no need for any OEM Hardware
» 15 way strut damper adjustments
» Independent Ride height and Spring Preload adjustability
» 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear Helper Springs included for extreme ride height lowering (Front Only)

All coilover kits are rebuild-able so it will be the last strut and spring combination you will ever need. Fine tuning of the suspension is also possible for any and every type of driving style, or motorsports events as custom spring rates are available from 3kg/mm (168 lbs/in) – 17kg/mm (952 lbs/in)
Note: + or – 2k on spring rate changes will require re-valving.


----------



## SkizeR

did a little measuring and planning today. going to write it down here so i dont have to keep looking for that piece of paper i wrote it on..

Behind seats: (2) 20"x20" spaces
available trunk depth: 25"

(adding some depth for wire compensation)
AQ amp: 10.5"x18"
DC 500.1: 9"x14"
DC 750.2: 9"x25"
DC 360.4: 9"x19.5"
DC 350.2: 9"x16.5"

given the available space and size of the amps the way to set them up that makes the most sense is have the (2) DC 500.1 amps, the DC 360.4, and the DC 350.2 behind the seats on the "wall"... like this



yes i know.. im a great artist. if i go ahead and do mostly custom panels im going to have to make an amp rack there and somehow built it into the panels or have the panels built over it. heres how the trunk will be.. 



also going to have to build the amp rack before i make the panels. 
what do you guys think? any input on how i should go about this?


----------



## edzyy

How low are you going with the teins?


----------



## SkizeR

edzyy said:


> How low are you going with the teins?


**powertrix  but as low as possible without causing damage to the tires


----------



## goodstuff

Damn, 5 amps....you crazy.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Damn, 5 amps....you crazy.


6...


----------



## goodstuff

Missed the suede gas door. Nice.


----------



## edzyy

SkizeR said:


> **powertrix  but as low as possible without causing damage to the tires


dang, i thought that said super street lol


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Missed the suede gas door. Nice.


II'm going to get real carbon fiber cloth and gel coat it soon


----------



## goodstuff

SkizeR said:


> II'm going to get real carbon fiber cloth and gel coat it soon


So I can steal idea since your not using it? Laughs.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> So I can steal idea since your not using it? Laughs.


Go for it.


----------



## crzystng

I feel your pain with the heater core/condenser. I'm just starting to get things back together now myself. Glad to know I wasn't the only one with such a "crazy idea" as everyone around me keeps saying. Keep up the work though, it is looking great.


----------



## SkizeR

just started glassing the left side of the trunk. letting it dry over night and will finish the rest of the trunks molds tomorrow


----------



## shutmdown

SkizeR said:


> **powertrix  but as low as possible without causing damage to the tires


Make sure you get custom spring rates. The standard ones are too soft. If you drop the car pretty low it will bottom out.


----------



## SkizeR

shutmdown said:


> Make sure you get custom spring rates. The standard ones are too soft. If you drop the car pretty low it will bottom out.


i got 8k front 6k rear


----------



## shutmdown

SkizeR said:


> i got 8k front 6k rear


not sure how you like your ride (stiff/soft) but i found that 8 and 6 were a bit soft especially when it was lowered to the max. I ended up getting new springs 10/8 to replace them.


----------



## SkizeR

shutmdown said:


> not sure how you like your ride (stiff/soft) but i found that 8 and 6 were a bit soft especially when it was lowered to the max. I ended up getting new springs 10/8 to replace them.


they come with "helper springs" for when u want to go really low it stiffens it up a bit


----------



## SkizeR

ccrappy phone pics..


----------



## quietfly

has the job taught you anything that you've used on your own install?


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> has the job taught you anything that you've used on your own install?


ummm.. not really sure since i didnt do much work on it since ive been working there. i go back in tomorrow too.


----------



## quietfly

i'm just living the installer life vicariously through you!! 

but seriously, You stepped in to a pretty sweet gig.


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> i'm just living the installer life vicariously through you!!
> 
> but seriously, You stepped in to a pretty sweet gig.


haha come stop by sometime


----------



## SkizeR

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shutmdown

SkizeR said:


> they come with "helper springs" for when u want to go really low it stiffens it up a bit


Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I checked helper springs only helped rid the gap of the spring to the top hat/ pillow mount. Also keeps it centered on the spring seat. I could be wrong... This is what twin toldw numerous years ago when I had issues with the spring not setting right (center) after the car was on the lift or when I 3 wheeled.


----------



## SkizeR

shutmdown said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I checked helper springs only helped rid the gap of the spring to the top hat/ pillow mount. Also keeps it centered on the spring seat. I could be wrong... This is what twin toldw numerous years ago when I had issues with the spring not setting right (center) after the car was on the lift or when I 3 wheeled.


!i emailed them and they told me its to help it for when you want to go lower than suggested and these help make it somehow..


----------



## SkizeR

QQuick shot of last nights work before i go back to work


----------



## Fricasseekid

Am I to understand that you decided to rebuild the rear panels that wouldn't fit back in?

I may have missed it in an earlier post, but did you ever determine why the panels wouldn't fit?


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> Am I to understand that you decided to rebuild the rear panels that wouldn't fit back in?
> 
> I may have missed it in an earlier post, but did you ever determine why the panels wouldn't fit?


I did end up getting it to fit. I'm making custom panels so it'll be easier to wrap and build the amp rack and sub boxes into.. I'll go into detail later

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fricasseekid

I see. Keep up the good work.


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> I see. Keep up the good work.


TThanks man. Good to see you back


----------



## SkizeR

got this to compensate for the fact that theres no heater core to help with cooling.. its for the twin turbo engine though so it will go on in about 3 weeks when the swap gets done.


----------



## SkizeR

also should i leave it...




or tint it... (just a quick photoshop to see what it would look like)


----------



## RandyJ75

Tint it...I just had my car done and I love it.


----------



## goodstuff

Check your laws. Illegal in Mass beyond a certain darkness level. Pretty annoying honestly.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Check your laws. Illegal in Mass beyond a certain darkness level. Pretty annoying honestly.


I like to live dangerously.. 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fricasseekid




----------



## SkizeR




----------



## a-minus

I also say tint it. Don't want anyone to see that amp rack and decide they want those zapcos more than you do.


----------



## SkizeR

a-minus said:


> I also say tint it. Don't want anyone to see that amp rack and decide they want those zapcos more than you do.


il be using security screws for a lot of stuff anyway but itll also all be hidden pretty well


----------



## vwdave

keep in mind that when you use security screws thats not as much a deterrent as it is a frusterator to a thief. Ive seen it before where someone wants something, they break in, cant get it out, so they thrash the vehicle.

That being said, i would tint it if its a daily driver, and leave it without its a show only car.


----------



## SkizeR

vwdave said:


> keep in mind that when you use security screws thats not as much a deterrent as it is a frusterator to a thief. Ive seen it before where someone wants something, they break in, cant get it out, so they thrash the vehicle.
> 
> That being said, i would tint it if its a daily driver, and leave it without its a show only car.


Weekend car. Won't be driven in winter either.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MinnesotaStateUniversity

When I see tint it's,

OMG THAT GUY MUST HAVE SOME GOOD **** TO STEAL!


Dude, it looks better w/out the tint.


----------



## RandyJ75

a-minus said:


> I also say tint it. Don't want anyone to see that amp rack and decide they want those zapcos more than you do.



Tinting it will make it look better... I did mine 20% on the back window and 35% on the side windows.


----------



## SkizeR

get ready for some weekend updates..


----------



## Fricasseekid

(Buckled up & hanging on)


----------



## SkizeR

thats if i dont sleep it away again lol


----------



## Fricasseekid

Take an adderall! Get to work buddy!


----------



## SkizeR

i need more than adderall..


----------



## Fricasseekid

Take a 30mg xr and crack it open and pour the pellets into a 24oz red bull. First you'll have to make poopoo, then you'll be a teeth gritting, stereo installing maniac!


----------



## SkizeR

my body would eat that in a matter of minutes. im pretty much immune to adderall after being prescribed 120mg a day for two years..


----------



## Fricasseekid

Oh, you're one of those. 

I believe adderall is over prescribed a lot! IMHO if you can feel the effects you're taking too much. It should normalize you not geek you out. But there are those people who need a lot to function. 
My doctor backed me off to 15mg a day at my request. I sleep better and never feel lethargic at work.


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> Oh, you're one of those.
> 
> I believe adderall is over prescribed a lot! IMHO if you can feel the effects you're taking too much. It should normalize you not geek you out. But there are those people who need a lot to function.
> My doctor backed me off to 15mg a day at my request. I sleep better and never feel lethargic at work.


if only you knew how bad my adhd is haha


----------



## fast94tracer

lol i know the feeling i was on ridilin my whole childhood


----------



## SkizeR

ridilin is candy compared to real adderall and vyvanse (which is what i was on). i just stopped taking it. it made me feel like crap and i would literally, no damn lie, eat nothing for breakfast, a poptart for lunch at school, no dinner and a bowl of cereal on some days before i went to sleep. theres something not right with that picture. plus it made my nearly unbearable insomnia even worse


----------



## fast94tracer

yes but adderall wasn't really around in the early and mid 80's not like ridilin was


----------



## Fricasseekid

SkizeR said:


> ridilin is candy compared to real adderall and vyvanse (which is what i was on). i just stopped taking it. it made me feel like crap and i would literally, no damn lie, eat nothing for breakfast, a poptart for lunch at school, no dinner and a bowl of cereal on some days before i went to sleep. theres something not right with that picture. plus it made my nearly unbearable insomnia even worse


It's a strong ass stimulant. All to often a doctor prescribes a drug and when it doesn't work they just up the dosage. Dr.s are too damn egotistical. It never occurs to them that they may have misdiagnosed the symptoms. 

I remember Ritalin making me more like a zombie than adderall does. But when I was only Ritalin I was much younger and smaller, probably more overdosed than when I switched to adderall at an older age. They both killed my appetite. Actually Dexedrine had the least I'll side effects for me. I don't know why they took me off it. 

That adderall lingers in your system for a while even after the main effects wear off. If I took over 100 mg (and I have back when I was abusing it) I probably wouldn't sleep for two days.


----------



## SkizeR

Fricasseekid said:


> It's a strong ass stimulant. All to often a doctor prescribes a drug and when it doesn't work they just up the dosage. Dr.s are too damn egotistical. It never occurs to them that they may have misdiagnosed the symptoms.
> 
> I remember Ritalin making me more like a zombie than adderall does. But when I was only Ritalin I was much younger and smaller, probably more overdosed than when I switched to adderall at an older age. They both killed my appetite. Actually Dexedrine had the least I'll side effects for me. I don't know why they took me off it.
> 
> *That adderall lingers in your system for a while even after the main effects wear off.* If I took over 100 mg (and I have back when I was abusing it) I probably wouldn't sleep for two days.


it took two years before the side effects wore off for me.


----------



## Fricasseekid

I believe it!


----------



## SkizeR

was going to work on the car but...


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## fast94tracer

whats this a pic of? your add in action?


----------



## SkizeR

pretty much


----------



## fast94tracer

lol i bet you love doing the work but hate the aftermath of cleanup


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> lol i bet you love doing the work but hate the aftermath of cleanup


Oh god you have no idea.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Fricasseekid

X2!!!

See shop photos in my build thread. 


The worst for me is every time I need to use a tool for 5 minutes I have to spend 10 minute looking for it! I never set something down in the same place.


----------



## fast94tracer

I know I'm the same damn way "cleaning i hate it with a passion"!!!!!


----------



## fast94tracer

Fricasseekid said:


> X2!!!
> 
> See shop photos in my build thread.
> 
> 
> The worst for me is every time I need to use a tool for 5 minutes I have to spend 10 minute looking for it! I never set something down in the same place.


and that is why we lose so many damn tools.
it makes the already expensive hobby even worse!!!


----------



## Fricasseekid

Actually I'm hoping to give my shop a makeover after I finish all my current projects. I want to build a couple custom work benches (possibly a split top roubo), a shelf that integrates a router table and my miter saw, I want to run a couple extra 220 power supplies, insulate the entire shop, and put up walls with a few cabinets and a French cleat hanging system. Oh and install a healthy dust management system. I can be incredibly efficient when I'm working in a spaced designed around my work flow. But until I can convince my wife to host a garage sale my shop is a storage unit for her mothers old belongings. 

Note all the crap in the background:


----------



## SkizeR

aand all this is after my dad cleaned up after me haha


----------



## fast94tracer

lol your as bad as me


----------



## SkizeR

been sick all day so not really much to update. been talking to my friend who is doing the engine build/swap for me. were going to paint the engine bay. what color(s) do you guys think i should go with? i was thinking about doing it in bedliner and monstaliner has a lot of colors to choose from. i was thinking of a few crazy ideas.. one being do a base layer in black and splatter neon colors all around. another doing it in the burnt oranges color of the car, the exact opposite color.. turquoise.. 

quick photoshop as a feeler.


----------



## 94VG30DE

Whatever color, don't do bedliner. It will ALWAYS be filthy. You want something as candy as possible that wipes nice and clean.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Whatever color, don't do bedliner. It will ALWAYS be filthy. You want something as candy as possible that wipes nice and clean.


bedliners just so damn easy..


----------



## fast94tracer

I say stick with the bed liner as its easy to wash and you don't have to worry about scratching the **** out of it.....and I'd go with black with neon splatters!!!
or black and that burnt orange splatters


----------



## Fricasseekid

fast94tracer said:


> I say stick with the bed liner as its easy to wash and you don't have to worry about scratching the **** out of it.....and I'd go with black with neon splatters!!!
> or black and that burnt orange splatters


I like this idea.


----------



## captainobvious

Fricasseekid said:


> But until I can convince my wife to host a garage sale my shop is a storage unit for her mothers old belongings.


The easiest solution to that is to just work as normal. When the wife comes in and sees mommies hoarded junk covered in MDF dust, she'll want to move it out quick


----------



## captainobvious

Oh and about the tint. Do tint it, but go with a lighter tint not the blacked out ghetto look. I did something like 35% on the mazda and it looks classy. Not dark enough that you can't be seen so no trouble with the cops, but enough protection from the suns rays to keep it cooler and keep the skin cancer at bay.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Oh and about the tint. Do tint it, but go with a lighter tint not the blacked out ghetto look. I did something like 35% on the mazda and it looks classy. Not dark enough that you can't be seen so no trouble with the cops, but enough protection from the suns rays to keep it cooler and keep the skin cancer at bay.


Good option..

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

thinkin of something like this but on the bay and not the engine itself.. 

Redirect Notice


----------



## SkizeR

SkizeR said:


> thinkin of something like this but on the bay and not the engine itself..
> 
> Redirect Notice


**** bad link.. I'll post it when I get home

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fast94tracer

Lol I was gonna say something but I thought it was just my phone not wanting to load the site 

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## SkizeR

like this but on the bay, not the engine itself..


----------



## fast94tracer

That would be sweet 

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## RandyJ75

I like the look.


----------



## SkizeR

Wellllllll.. worked on her today, and put on a much needed alternator belt (never had one for some reason, same with power steering). Took me a while but i finally got it. Well you know the saying "one step forward 2 steps back"? Well i also hooked up my stinger battery terminals with the digital volt meter built in, and the first number i saw wwhen i started the car... 17.3 volts at idle, 18.5 when i tap the gas even the slightest bit. WTF!!!!!


----------



## fast94tracer

holy crap!!!! hmmmm i think your regulator is mad


----------



## 94VG30DE

fast94tracer said:


> holy crap!!!! hmmmm i think your regulator is mad


Yeah, the voltage regulator on these alternators sucks. I went through two alts in 7 years I think. One stranded me in the middle of nowhere, IL, and had to go replace it on my back in 40degF rain in a bar parking lot. Not a fun time. It's not in a nice spot, and that rear flange nut/bracket is a real pain. 

Suggestion: they often fail due to power steering fluid leaking from the pump above, and dripping down in. I made a light shield that fit in the spot and mounted to the alternator top bracket, but blocked the PS pump from dripping on the alt. Didn't replace the alternator after that. I wish I would have drawn up my design for the shield, but I was in a hurry.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Yeah, the voltage regulator on these alternators sucks. I went through two alts in 7 years I think. One stranded me in the middle of nowhere, IL, and had to go replace it on my back in 40degF rain in a bar parking lot. Not a fun time. It's not in a nice spot, and that rear flange nut/bracket is a real pain.
> 
> Suggestion: they often fail due to power steering fluid leaking from the pump above, and dripping down in. I made a light shield that fit in the spot and mounted to the alternator top bracket, but blocked the PS pump from dripping on the alt. Didn't replace the alternator after that. I wish I would have drawn up my design for the shield, but I was in a hurry.


So all I have to replace is just the regulator? Where can I get that?

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

looks like im gunna run to my friends house in jersey and borrow my TT engines alt till the swap is done. should be very soon though


----------



## 94VG30DE

The regulator is built into the alternator, I've never seen them replaced separately.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> The regulator is built into the alternator, I've never seen them replaced separately.


Do you know if the NA and TT engines have the same alternator?

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## goodstuff

Will you be ready for Sunday?


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Will you be ready for Sunday?


Noo lol. 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## goodstuff

SkizeR said:


> Noo lol.
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


That's good though, you are taking your time so you can do it right once.


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> Do you know if the NA and TT engines have the same alternator?
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


TT Alternator On N/A Motor : 300ZX (Z32) Technical 
will a tt alternator work for a N/A for sure??????? : 300ZX (Z32) General 

Magic 8-ball says "Signs point to yes"


----------



## win1

They have the same alternator


----------



## SkizeR

win1 said:


> They have the same alternator


i know the TT has a higher amperage.


----------



## SkizeR

done ****ing around and doing this half passed. From now on il be doing each part of the car 1 by 1 and will only focus on tthat part till it is done and perfect... starting with the pillars. I stripped the suede off and covered the glassed part in filler and spend a few hours making each one perfect. No pics for now but not there is a hard line on the top part that comes off the actually pillar and as it wraps around the tweeters baffle it rounds out. Not sure if im going to do alcantara or vinyl, but either way it will be stitched around that hard line and done proper hopefully with the help of the upholstery guy at work. Pics will be uploaded when have time


----------



## goodstuff

SkizeR said:


> done ****ing around and doing this half passed. From now on il be doing each part of the car 1 by 1 and will only focus on tthat part till it is done and perfect... starting with the pillars. I stripped the suede off and covered the glassed part in filler and spend a few hours making each one perfect. No pics for now but not there is a hard line on the top part that comes off the actually pillar and as it wraps around the tweeters baffle it rounds out. Not sure if im going to do alcantara or vinyl, but either way it will be stitched around that hard line and done proper hopefully with the help of the upholstery guy at work. Pics will be uploaded when have time


It does get crazy if you take on too many things at once. You end up with three whiteboards all covered in notes like your building a nuclear bomb or something. And no space to work because it's all taken up by random pieces of automotive interior. But you also run into problems where one thing needs to be done first before this or that gets done....oh god I am glad I am not mid install right now, it does kind of suck as much as it is fun to learn.
(dear NSA, I don't know how to build anything like the above mentioned so please leave me alone, kthnksbye.)
You coming out Sunday? I know you won't be done yet.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> It does get crazy if you take on too many things at once. You end up with three whiteboards all covered in notes like your building a nuclear bomb or something. And no space to work because it's all taken up by random pieces of automotive interior. But you also run into problems where one thing needs to be done first before this or that gets done....oh god I am glad I am not mid install right now, it does kind of suck as much as it is fun to learn.
> (dear NSA, I don't know how to build anything like the above mentioned so please leave me alone, kthnksbye.)
> You coming out Sunday? I know you won't be done yet.


I won't be able to make it Sunday :/ and yeah to bad I lost/dad threw out most of the little interior pieces cause they were scattered around the basement/garage/my bedroom lol

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fast94tracer

wow that sucks I'm sure its gonna be a fun adventure to source all the pieces that got tossed.


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> wow that sucks I'm sure its gonna be a fun adventure to source all the pieces that got tossed.


EEhh I can probably make some and im on a lot of facebook classified groups for my car and a lot of people part out their interiors for cheap so im probably fine


----------



## fast94tracer

well thats good but it still sucks


----------



## vwdave

SkizeR said:


> I won't be able to make it Sunday :/ and yeah to bad I lost/dad threw out most of the little interior pieces cause they were scattered around the basement/garage/my bedroom lol
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


Benefit of having your own place? Lol


----------



## fast94tracer

yeah no kidding. its even better for me as i live alone in a three story home


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> yeah no kidding. its even better for me as i live alone in a three story home


Yeah same. No one goes in the basement but to my mom and dad it HAS to be perfectly clean and none of my stuff can be there except my vinyl and suede which they tucked under the stairs -___-

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dlemay69

Watching your build as I also own a Z32. Are you planning on installing an upgraded alternator? I think in my TT it's a 90 amp, and I seem to max out its capabilities very quickly with just 2 amps. Pretty sure its even less amperage for NA.

I did some LED mods to my cluster and other interior lighting to help lessen the current draw until I get a bigger alternator.


----------



## SkizeR

dlemay69 said:


> Watching your build as I also own a Z32. Are you planning on installing an upgraded alternator? I think in my TT it's a 90 amp, and I seem to max out its capabilities very quickly with just 2 amps. Pretty sure its even less amperage for NA.
> 
> I did some LED mods to my cluster and other interior lighting to help lessen the current draw until I get a bigger alternator.


Yeah I'm in the process of getting an iraggi 300 amp alt with an external voltage regulator

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fast94tracer

I'm so jealous I wish someone made a alternator for my car  but at least my stock one is 140 amp.

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> I'm so jealous I wish someone made a alternator for my car  but at least my stock one is 140 amp.
> 
> I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


actually its a gm alternator that im going to have to custom mount


----------



## SkizeR

just working on my a pillars and found a great way to take off lots of body filler easily when its completely hardened... heat it. no, not like a little bit with a heat gun, i mean get a torch, and blast that **** till it starts getting brown and you can hear it. soft as butter


----------



## fast94tracer

Lol

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## SkizeR

just got done with one pillar and almost done with the other. the finished one is green (still needs a quick fine sand) and the other one was covered in pin holes so i just used a bondo/resin mix to fill it all in. also used some to fix pinholes on the finished one.











we named this huge dragonfly at work Dick Rider.. idk why



and maxine says hi


----------



## SkizeR

test fit..


----------



## fast94tracer

looking good! i might be starting mine soon too since i start my new job on monday. its always nice to double your pay


----------



## aporozco

94VG30DE said:


> Following b/c it's a Z32. Like a boss


Same here. Wish I never sold my Z32 TT :kaboom:


----------



## SkizeR

aporozco said:


> Same here. Wish I never sold my Z32 TT :kaboom:


NNothings stopping you from buying another..


----------



## goodstuff

Seeing those tweets really makes me want to hear this.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Seeing those tweets really makes me want to hear this.


me to lol


----------



## csmith180

Z32 for life!!! Love the color, I used almost the same shade for all my accents on my TT. Looks good, excited to see her done!


----------



## SkizeR

csmith180 said:


> Z32 for life!!! Love the color, I used almost the same shade for all my accents on my TT. Looks good, excited to see her done!


i might steal your engine bay color scheme haha


----------



## csmith180

Yeah man, I just used the VHT burnt copper for everything. It was a ***** for some of the parts, but turned out pretty good.


----------



## csmith180

Love the alt and starter!


----------



## SkizeR

csmith180 said:


> Love the alt and starter!


holy ****! you got that VHT paint to come out that good? that stuff is like rusty water :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

little exploring in my dc 750.2


----------



## captainobvious

Pretty amp internals 

Are you planning to make a grill for those tweeters? I would if I were you...the less visible the better!


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Pretty amp internals
> 
> Are you planning to make a grill for those tweeters? I would if I were you...the less visible the better!


im not sure yet. im going to use security screws for anything visible though. i just cant really think of a design that would look good with it


----------



## Noobdelux

bing or joey might have an idea for that

ps good work!


----------



## SkizeR

i just think it would look much better without one


----------



## Noobdelux

yeah.. what i was thinking of somthing that hides it when your not in the car : )


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> im not sure yet. im going to use security screws for anything visible though. i just cant really think of a design that would look good with it


Check out Erin's (Bikinpunk) a pillar build. He made some very simple, thin grilles to fit over and attach with magnets in a similar construction style/shape as yours.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Check out Erin's (Bikinpunk) a pillar build. He made some very simple, thin grilles to fit over and attach with magnets in a similar construction style/shape as yours.


Good idea

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> Good idea
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2



Thanks!

My a-pillars in the old mazda were built very similar to yours as well. That grill Erin fabbed up would have worked perfectly for mine as well (I had mine exposed).


----------



## SkizeR

honestly this build could be going much faster but i dont have the money right now to buy all the supplies. also i work a lot


----------



## Noobdelux

aah dont worry abaout that.. beside when you worry abaout that you start cutting corners and well. it would not do with your attention to detail you have.. i realy envy you your skills (and garrage : PPP)


----------



## SkizeR

Noobdelux said:


> aah dont worry abaout that.. beside when you worry abaout that you start cutting corners and well. it would not do with your attention to detail you have.. i realy envy you your skills (and garrage : PPP)


You envy my garage? My garage is so damn tiny and messy you wouldn't want to touch it with a ten foot stick lol

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Noobdelux

oh yes m8 this is mine : P 
:


----------



## goodstuff

SkizeR said:


> honestly this build could be going much faster but *i dont have the money right now* to buy all the supplies. also i work a lot


Sometimes it's better this way. You end up going slower but it can come out better because you are forced to take your time. You will get there and you will appreciate it so much more at that point then some brat who had daddy pay for it all.


----------



## SkizeR

Noobdelux said:


> oh yes m8 this is mine : P
> :


okay you win haha


----------



## SkizeR

but this isnt much better considering you couldnt open the door even halfway..


----------



## Noobdelux

awww... id kill for an garrage.. : P annyhow do one side at the time then, that way you can have the door fully open : P

or move that cupboard : P


----------



## SkizeR

Noobdelux said:


> awww... id kill for an garrage.. : P annyhow do one side at the time then, that way you can have the door fully open : P
> 
> or move that cupboard : P


Id pay someone just to watch them try to move that thing lol

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Noobdelux

heheh okay so park over to the left when doing the right side then? or is that thought of before?

(i gues you have) sorry


----------



## SkizeR

well what you dont see is all the stuff thats blocking it from moving more than a foot in either direction.. lacrosse equipment, hockey equipment, snowboard equipment, all of mom and dads household crap, and all the stuff that gets taken out of the car. it doesnt really matter though since its parked in my driveway now


----------



## Noobdelux

got a tarp ready? : P 

aah damnit stop whining : P 

your dry, inside (if you want) and not dependant of the damn whather hehe


----------



## SkizeR

Noobdelux said:


> got a tarp ready? : P
> 
> aah damnit stop whining : P
> 
> your dry, inside (if you want) and not dependant of the damn whather hehe


im not whining lol.


----------



## Noobdelux

*big grin* i know i am heheh


----------



## SkizeR

Little update. In the middle of doing the "glow mod" 










Little preview..










Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quietfly

nice!!!


----------



## file audio

what an amazing work..... I WAS THINKING woow,, but then I start to remember how many days and night I have spend on my truck,, and let me tell you the magic its not going yet even if my highlander still not sounding amazing, if I was doing this for a goal ill get frustrated but I really like the way, yes my wife hates car audio, I love car audio, the highlander ask for more, and I cant hear what I want to hear inside, maybe I need more dynamat as your rig, i have some sheets I haven stick yet, but I will. IM waiting for updates and videoupdates of your project,,, very nice car and very nice work,, hey tint the glass dilema ? just for the p99rs it will be better..


----------



## SkizeR

well i just sold my Twin Turbo swap that i was about to put in.. but have no fear. Bigger plans are brewing


----------



## TheBetterMethod

I smell an LS swap brewing. 

Continue...


----------



## SkizeR

TheBetterMethod said:


> I smell an LS swap brewing.
> 
> Continue...


Nahh. Not my style.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## TheBetterMethod

Good!

I hate LS swaps. 

Is a vq35-7 swap more your style?


----------



## SkizeR

TheBetterMethod said:


> Good!
> 
> I hate LS swaps.
> 
> Is a vq35-7 swap more your style?


Nope

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## crazyirish

RB swap?


----------



## SkizeR

crazyirish said:


> RB swap?


I actually almost did that when I first got it. But no. Sold the stock TT motor I bough from japan because I found a guy 30 minutes from me, who is selling a brand new Z1 motorsports, built stage 2 short block and Z1 gt600 turbos plus extra parts like a front mount intercooler. Brand new 6-puck clutch, z specialties lightweight flywheel, a new rear bumpEr which is the same as the one I have, and some other stuff.. all for 2000 plus some some audio stuff. That's over 6000 dollars easily just in parts


----------



## SkizeR

sneak peek..


----------



## crazyirish

Very nice! (And cooler than an RB swap anyway)


----------



## TheBetterMethod

So its a built VG then? Nothing wrong with that.


----------



## SkizeR

crazyirish said:


> Very nice! (And cooler than an RB swap anyway)


theyre both pretty cool but i would have to give it to the RB. just a straight animal


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> theyre both pretty cool but i would have to give it to the RB. just a straight animal


I agree. What's an RB motor cost, anyways?


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> I agree. What's an RB motor cost, anyways?


depends which one.

the rb25-det goes for about 2k-3k. an rb26-dett goes for about 4k-6k


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> depends which one.
> 
> the rb25-det goes for about 2k-3k. an rb26-dett goes for about 4k-6k


The twin turbo for sure!


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> The twin turbo for sure!


Well I got a built vg30dett calling my name right now lol. Going to get everything this weekend if I can sell enough audio stuff. I sold my other TT motor for 1k. Now I sold the phass speakers. Just need about 500 more

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quietfly

can't wait to see more, i have to visit you one day...


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> can't wait to see more, i have to visit you one day...


Yeah man come check it out while its still gutted lol. Get a before and after view

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quietfly

I know i need to, i'm just completely swamped with work.... i tell you being an adult sucks....


----------



## fast94tracer

quietfly said:


> I know i need to, i'm just completely swamped with work.... i tell you being an adult sucks....


No kidding. ....what id do to be a kid again! !!!!!!!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> I know i need to, i'm just completely swamped with work.... i tell you being an adult sucks....


Hey I'm pretty much there. At least you have a paying job lol. I have to commute an hour each way to work 10 hrs just to earn my stripes haha

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

little something in the mail came today..


----------



## Niebur3

So, what is your daily driver?


----------



## SkizeR

Niebur3 said:


> So, what is your daily driver?


a hacked up 2004 nissan sentra. its what i learned on.


----------



## SkizeR

okay guys.. this engine and turbo deal is going down. now im just planning for the near future.. how should i paint my engine bay and engine components? here it is currently (were going to delete and tuck a lot of stuff too)..


----------



## Old Skewl

Gotta love that engine bay! Tight MoFo!! My girl friend had to work on mine since her hands were smaller when I installed my boost controller. Damn, wish I still had that car.


----------



## SkizeR

Old Skewl said:


> Gotta love that engine bay! Tight MoFo!! My girl friend had to work on mine since her hands were smaller when I installed my boost controller. Damn, wish I still had that car.


yeah its a ***** to work on. any ideas or reccomendations for the bay/engines paint color combo?


----------



## nervewrecker

SkizeR said:


> sneak peek..


Nice


----------



## knever3

Nice looking car!


----------



## SkizeR

knever3 said:


> Nice looking car!


Thanks. Coils come on Monday too so she will sit very nice soon

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## captainobvious

I'd either go same as body color, or black for the engine bay. Looking good so far


----------



## Old Skewl

Bay same color as car. Can barely see the engine block so not sure it matters much. Google some 300ZX TT engines to get some ideas. Polished aluminum is always nice!!


----------



## Brian_smith06

drool!!!


----------



## SkizeR

As I was leaving for work I got a little visit from the fedex guy...




































This weekend she will be ****in slammed

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## captainobvious

Niiiiiiiice


----------



## Golden Ear

Sweet!


----------



## SkizeR

And to sweeten it even more, I'm picking up all those go-fast parts I mentioned earlier, tonight. Build short block with wiseco pistons and eagle rods and everything all cleaned up and all that bs by z1motorsports, garret g2650 turbos, FMIC, extra heads (already have built ones coming in the mail), 5 bolt downpipes, 2.5 inch testpipes, electronic boost controller, brand new 120k kit, all new oem gaskets, and pretty much a whole other engines worth in extra parts. 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

another visit from fedex today.. 


also put on the rear coils about an hour ago. about to go out and do the fronts


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

Plan to install a camber/caster kit or just let the tires wear?


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> Plan to install a camber/caster kit or just let the tires wear?


considering it wont be driven for a while, im not sure yet


----------



## crazyirish

Seen plenty of cars with similar wheel/tire fitment that wore the tires just fine. After many discussions with alignment guys as well as running some non factory alignments myself, I've concluded that there is a big difference between uneven tire wear and premature tire wear. Depending on the chassis, a decent bit of static negative camber can be a lot of fun to drive


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

crazyirish said:


> Seen plenty of cars with similar wheel/tire fitment that wore the tires just fine. After many discussions with alignment guys as well as running some non factory alignments myself, I've concluded that there is a big difference between uneven tire wear and premature tire wear. Depending on the chassis, a decent bit of static negative camber can be a lot of fun to drive


You are correct, it can be fun. That is if you don't mind wearing your tires prematurely. My buddies and I all went through this numerous times during the fast and furious days of yesteryear.


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> You are correct, it can be fun. That is if you don't mind wearing your tires prematurely. My buddies and I all went through this numerous times during the fast and furious days of yesteryear.


this also wont be my daily when i do drive it so im not to concerned


----------



## SkizeR

little teaser from today..


----------



## indytrucks

Nice, if you need anything for Japan let me know.


----------



## SkizeR

indytrucks said:


> Nice, if you need anything for Japan let me know.


jdm tail lights?


----------



## indytrucks

SkizeR said:


> jdm tail lights?


Possibly. Let me look around.


----------



## Coppertone

Wow, Japanese oem parts would really take this vehicle to the next level. Wish you well towards getting them.


----------



## SkizeR

indytrucks said:


> Possibly. Let me look around.


Or head lights. Thanks man

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quality_sound

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> Plan to install a camber/caster kit or just let the tires wear?





SkizeR said:


> considering it wont be driven for a while, im not sure yet


Camber, especially this mild, won't affect his tire wear. It's bad toe that will wear tires quickly.


----------



## quality_sound

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> You are correct, it can be fun. That is if you don't mind wearing your tires prematurely. My buddies and I all went through this numerous times during the fast and furious days of yesteryear.


It was the toe, not the camber. My M3 has a ton of negative camber in the rear and those wear perfectly evenly.


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

quality_sound said:


> It was the toe, not the camber. My M3 has a ton of negative camber in the rear and those wear perfectly evenly.


Whether the actual off balance was called camber or toe, the kit required to allow for more adjustment above factory was called a camber kit. Surely never heard of a toe kit. Do they exist?


----------



## 94VG30DE

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> Whether the actual off balance was called camber or toe, the kit required to allow for more adjustment above factory was called a camber kit. Surely never heard of a toe kit. Do they exist?


On this car, the rear toe is controlled by Toe Arms and front toe is controlled in a combination of the Tension Rods and the eccentric bolt on the lower control arm if I remember correctly.


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> Whether the actual off balance was called camber or toe, the kit required to allow for more adjustment above factory was called a camber kit. Surely never heard of a toe kit. Do they exist?


Its not called a toe kit or does one exist for that matter (I don't think). Its just different parts of the suspension that you adjust to compensate for it. 

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SaturnSL1

Coming along VERY nicely!


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

SkizeR said:


> Its not called a toe kit or does one exist for that matter (I don't think). Its just different parts of the suspension that you adjust to compensate for it.
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


I agree. When you drop the vehicle, the factory adjustments normally don't go far enough to compensate. That is where the camber kits come in.

Either way, it looks nice dropped. Just drive it for a while when you get it ready and watch the tires.

My best friend had the same car (TT) back in 2002 decked out (wheels, kit, chameleon paint). We couldn't go anywhere without being stopped in that car. Girls loved that car on spring break in Myrtle. 

The body alone was way ahead of it's time.


----------



## SkizeR

blood, sweat, and tears


----------



## Golden Ear

Oh dang! What happened?


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Oh dang! What happened?


got attacked by the turbo. apparently it didnt like me trying to take it apart to clean the hot side lol. but really, i was having trouble with some of the bolts on the turbine housing, so i put it on the floor, put an open end wrench on it, held it, and stood on it and put weight on it till it finally gave. as soon as it gave, i saw blood pouring out of my finger. i guess i caught it on the compressors blades. a piece of my ring finger is missing now lol


----------



## Golden Ear

Lol I'm gonna have give this round to the turbo Now it better work hard for you in the car to make up for it.


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Lol I'm gonna have give this round to the turbo Now it better work hard for you in the car to make up for it.


that was only round 1. there are still 2 more stuck bolts that are even harder to reach


----------



## vivmike

Im running a camber kit, at -4º. No uneven wear; toe is what kills tires.

I would only get a camber kit if you are rubbing even after a fender pull and roll


----------



## SkizeR

thinking over all the possible things i want to do with this build. so many options its making my brain hurt -___-


----------



## fast94tracer

lol i know that feeling all to well....I'm still there and it wont stop till you finally bite the bullet and buy something. lol


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> lol i know that feeling all to well....I'm still there and it wont stop till you finally bite the bullet and buy something. lol


its not even about buying stuff. im thinking about doing a lot of real carbon fiber and what to use it on, still cant decide on where to put the diyma r12 or if i should even use it, how i want the sub boxes, etc..


----------



## fast94tracer

I'm going through it too ... then you gotta decide if you want straight carbon fiber or carbon Kevlar and then what color and so on . and then you think about it tomorrow and you change your mind! at least i finally decided on what subs and how to mount them. there already installed!!!


----------



## SkizeR

fast94tracer said:


> I'm going through it too ... then you gotta decide if you want straight carbon fiber or carbon Kevlar and then what color and so on . and then you think about it tomorrow and you change your mind! at least i finally decided on what subs and how to mount them. there already installed!!!


i know what fiber i want to use.


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

SkizeR said:


> its not even about buying stuff. im thinking about doing a lot of real carbon fiber and what to use it on, still cant decide on where to put the diyma r12 or if i should even use it, how i want the sub boxes, etc..


What was your intention with the r12 on top of the Ultimos?


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> What was your intention with the r12 on top of the Ultimos?


if your familiar with the 300zx, theres a flat area between the trunk and seats that i would make a very shallow box and have it mounted inverted, or do the same in the spar tire well but make a cover so only the magnet and part of the basket would be visible. im just obsessed with the look of it


----------



## quietfly

i've found no build is complete until i bleed on it some where...


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

SkizeR said:


> if your familiar with the 300zx, theres a flat area between the trunk and seats that i would make a very shallow box and have it mounted inverted, or do the same in the spar tire well but make a cover so only the magnet and part of the basket would be visible. im just obsessed with the look of it


So you plan to run two different brand of subs, off of two different amps in the same install?

According to your signature, that is what it looks like. You are doing this only to incorporate the look of the R12 motor structure?


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> So you plan to run two different brand of subs, off of two different amps in the same install?
> 
> According to your signature, that is what it looks like. You are doing this only to incorporate the look of the R12 motor structure?


Probably just gonna use it in my daily or in my room as much as I want it in the 300

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Jagged Corn Flakes

SkizeR said:


> Probably just gonna use it in my daily or in my room as much as I want it in the 300
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


Sounds like a good idea. At first I thought you were possibly going to do an SQ/SPL setup until I saw the other subs were Ultimos. Then I just got confused.


----------



## SkizeR

Jagged Corn Flakes said:


> Sounds like a good idea. At first I thought you were possibly going to do an SQ/SPL setup until I saw the other subs were Ultimos. Then I just got confused.


I do like the idea of having the third sub because I do love to crank it sometimes and jam the **** out Lol.. also it is by far the nicest looking sub in my opinion. Breaks my heart just thinking it doesn't have a spot in this car :/

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

anyone care to chime in on venting the mid ranges vs making a sealed enclosure for them in the kicks?


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> anyone care to chime in on venting the mid ranges vs making a sealed enclosure for them in the kicks?


have you run the numbers in WINISD or any other program to see where your response would be for each?


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> have you run the numbers in WINISD or any other program to see where your response would be for each?


im not really sure how i would replicate venting it to the outside of the car


----------



## SkizeR

well i modeled it in winisd but sealed vs IB is pretty much an un-noticeable change according to the program. anyone have any firsthand experience with sealed vs IB mids in the kicks? the lowest they will be run is probably 150hz (at the absolute lowest, most likely be 300hz). i want to know what will get more spl and sound better overall.


----------



## Beckerson1

SkizeR said:


> well i modeled it in winisd but sealed vs IB is pretty much an un-noticeable change according to the program. anyone have any firsthand experience with sealed vs IB mids in the kicks? the lowest they will be run is probably 150hz (at the absolute lowest, most likely be 300hz). i want to know what will get more spl and sound better overall.


IMHO I would go sealed for something like that. Winisd won't show IB to well anyway. At least that's my understanding.


----------



## minbari

Beckerson1 said:


> IMHO I would go sealed for something like that. Winisd won't show IB to well anyway. At least that's my understanding.


Winisd can approximate it, just use sealed and make it somewhat larger than your trunk(or door) volume. Once you get your volume to equal or more than vas, your qtc will basically equal qts.

sent from my phone using digital farts now Free


----------



## SkizeR

dont you guys love when you sit on a build forever because you have no money to fund it at the time?


----------



## WestCo

SkizeR said:


> dont you guys love when you sit on a build forever because you have no money to fund it at the time?


Looks amazing so far. Hope the rest of the funds come soon!


----------



## SkizeR

little surprise in the mail today.. 3 irragi 300 amp alts with external regulators!


----------



## SkizeR

anyone have any idea how i can extend these? or even tap into them?


----------



## minbari

SkizeR said:


> anyone have any idea how i can extend these? or even tap into them?


Easiest way will be to de-solder them. Then use any wire you like to extend em

sent from my phone using digital farts


----------



## RandyJ75

SkizeR said:


> well i modeled it in winisd but sealed vs IB is pretty much an un-noticeable change according to the program. anyone have any firsthand experience with sealed vs IB mids in the kicks? the lowest they will be run is probably 150hz (at the absolute lowest, most likely be 300hz). i want to know what will get more spl and sound better overall.


Try getting in touch w/ edouble01, I think he did the same thing in his build.


----------



## vwjmkv

awesome car! awesome work!


----------



## SkizeR

vwjmkv said:


> awesome car! awesome work!


thanks!


----------



## theeaudioboy

SkizeR said:


> thanks!


 
Nice car ! I love the Z's !.  I have 2x Nissan 300Z's now ! one in my dads garage cause he has more room then my garage, and more tools sadly ! but the one im building right now is a 1991' 300zx vg30dett I already stripped the interior and did sound deadening through out ! now been on the long pains taking process of the drivetrain rebuild/upgrade ! I just spent all day yesterday with my friend installing a new intercooler and putting the top end of the motor back together ! I now going to install a new set of JTW700 turbo's next weekend ! the money is whats taking me so long to get it finished !.. :mean: I have not decided what system im putting yet !?

but my other 300Z it at my house a 1988' ZX vg30et ! single turbo, but is completely stock minus the little old school system in it now ! 
only 45,000 miles on it !...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=49181&stc=1&d=1382928394


----------



## SkizeR

doing some mods to my zapco amps.. pics soon if i can get my laptop working


----------



## Neil_J

Subb'd, good luck with the amp mods.


----------



## SkizeR

Neil_J said:


> Subb'd, good luck with the amp mods.


well not really a mod, but idk what else to call it. lol. wasnt to hard. hopefully itll be even easier when i get that Hakko iron in the mail.


----------



## SkizeR

here we go.. gunna start this update with my fat lazy dog keeping me company while i start working on my gain knob for the AQ2200d.. 




what im doing, is tapping into the clipping indicator on the AudioQue amps gain knob and extending it do a different spot in the car, (either my HVAC pod next to my steering wheel since i wont have any HVAC in the car, in the rear view mirror, or possibly but not likely somewhere in the gauge cluster). the Zapco DC Amps also have 2 clipping indicators per channel, 1 for the signal input to see if the transmitter is clipping, and one for the output. ever since i got my AQ 2200d ive had an unhealthy obsession with clipping indicators. heres some pics of the gain knob..


what i did was i took some 20 gauge wire, stripped it about an inch, and gave it a kink towards the end of where i stripped it, and wrapped it around the positive of the led, and twist and solder it. same thing with the negative of it







heat shrinked and techflexed..









now comes the scary part.. me going at my Zapco dc amps with a soldering iron. same sort if method was used.
The one on the left is the led for output clipping and the one on the right is the led for input clipping from the transmitter.














all finished..


----------



## SkizeR

just to show what it originally looks like.. whats the point of me having them if im mounting them where i couldnt see them if i tried


----------



## REGULARCAB

Im a little late but im in for updates. Love what you have going on. On a side note, i love your camera too, takes some nice pics. Or maybe im just used to my cell phone lol.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Im a little late but im in for updates. Love what you have going on. On a side note, i love your camera too, takes some nice pics. Or maybe im just used to my cell phone lol.


thanks. i shoot with a canon t2i and a few lenses. the one i used for most of those pics was a 20mm. i want to upgrade to a full frame dslr when money permits. il have more updates hopefully this weekend


----------



## 94VG30DE

A+ on the testicular fortitude required to open and solder on on the Zapco stuff. DIY baby!


----------



## SkizeR

Haha yeah i was pretty scared at first but trying it out on the gain knob first help settle my nerves and get a little practice. But on the amps theres almost no room for error. Put the iron a few millimeters to the right and i burn a cap, or a few to the left, i melt the symbilink input.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

more work about to be done to the rest of the zapcos tonight. wish me luck


----------



## SPLEclipse

Looks good! If you're worried about any shorts on the soldered taps, you can use a dab of hot glue on the connections to keep them secure and insulated. I do it when I'm building microphones and it works great.


----------



## SkizeR

SPLEclipse said:


> Looks good! If you're worried about any shorts on the soldered taps, you can use a dab of hot glue on the connections to keep them secure and insulated. I do it when I'm building microphones and it works great.


GREAT IDEA! i was about to ask if i can melt way on it to do that (got the idea from the symbilink transmitter, which is just a block of wax underneath the plastic coating with the board inside)


----------



## momax_powers

will you be doing this to all of your amps?....and if so, why not jus buy 10-12 leds and make a small board to see which amp is clipping


----------



## SkizeR

momax_powers said:


> will you be doing this to all of your amps?....and if so, why not jus buy 10-12 leds and make a small board to see which amp is clipping


all of the leds including power and protect are being extended and will most likely be put in a two way mirror in my rear view mirror's housing. or if not a two way mirror, they will be in another type of glass (not sure of the name, we use it at work for valentine radars) and mounted the same way. like this...


----------



## SkizeR

pic of how i terminated the wires.







does anyone think the amp will get hot enough to cause a problem running the techflexed wire through here??


----------



## Neil_J

SkizeR said:


> does anyone think the amp will get hot enough to cause a problem running the techflexed wire through here??


You should be fine.


----------



## SkizeR

Neil_J said:


> You should be fine.


cool thanks. i saved some for tomorrow so i can test out that hakko i ordered


----------



## SkizeR

7 yards of carbon fiber ordered!!!!!!


----------



## SkizeR

big sheet of HDPE ordered.. gunna be attacking the doors soon


----------



## SkizeR

anyone care to guess what il be doing with 7 yards of this stuff?


----------



## Golden Ear

Making your own subwoofers???


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Making your own subwoofers???


the ultimos that have been sitting in my closet already have a carbon fiber cone so nope


----------



## Stonerboy779

Some fancy door cards


----------



## SkizeR

Stonerboy779 said:


> Some fancy door cards


Ehh maybe


----------



## Golden Ear

An amp rack? That would look dope!


----------



## spoonsports86

nice progress 
cant wait to see what you are gonna do with the carbon fiber


----------



## SkizeR

anyone with a facebook can you do me a solid and go to this link and like the pic? its for a contest.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...112.1073741843.498078706892735&type=1&theater


----------



## jpf150

^Done. Looks like you're in 5th right now


----------



## SkizeR

tomorrow il be attacking my doors with some of the hdpe that just came in


----------



## SkizeR

finally got my lazy ass up to go work on the doors. lets see how this goes


----------



## SkizeR

so looks like in order to run a really deep midbass without the magnet blocking the window, im going to have to cut the door card and make something. may have finally found another use for that carbon fiber  pics coming soon


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> so looks like in order to run a really deep midbass without the magnet blocking the window, im going to have to cut the door card and make something. may have finally found another use for that carbon fiber  pics coming soon


Really? Can't you fabricate something off the front of the Bose enclosure baffle? Seems like you should have like 4" deep mounting depth if you go all the way from the back of the door card to the window.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Really? Can't you fabricate something off the front of the Bose enclosure baffle? Seems like you should have like 4" deep mounting depth if you go all the way from the back of the door card to the window.


they wouldnt work. im putting in either intimid8rs or 10" dyn esotecs. plus the door card comes very close to the door panel down there.


----------



## SkizeR

little something until i get a new sd to usb converter..


----------



## SteveH!

those door are gonna see some serious bass!


----------



## SkizeR

SteveH! said:


> those door are gonna see some serious bass!


yeah i know. still debating on the intimid8rs, dynaudio mw182's, or the illusion c8 though.

as much as i want to go with the dyns, its going to be so hard to fit them in there


----------



## Tsmith

I am running the Illusion C8s in my doors and absolutely love them.


----------



## SkizeR

Tsmith said:


> I am running the Illusion C8s in my doors and absolutely love them.


details? how much power? how did you mount em? how is your deadening job? what else have you used in your car and how do they compare?


----------



## Tsmith

I am running between 250-300w to them. They are just mounted IB free air in the doors. I did deaden my doors real good. These replaced a pair of Scanspeak 18Ws and the C8s are a lot better. Everyone that listens to my car comments on the midbass. They have worked very well for me because I did not have a lot of depth to work with either. I have them installed in an 04 Sequoia.


----------



## SkizeR

Tsmith said:


> I am running between 250-300w to them. They are just mounted IB free air in the doors. I did deaden my doors real good. These replaced a pair of Scanspeak 18Ws and the C8s are a lot better. Everyone that listens to my car comments on the midbass. They have worked very well for me because I did not have a lot of depth to work with either. I have them installed in an 04 Sequoia.


This excites me. Lol

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## jschrauwen

Subscribed


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> Subscribed


i see your details of the z in your location.. what does your engine consist of?


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> i see your details of the z in your location.. what does your engine consist of?


AMS Stage 1+ Longblock rebuild, Wiseco pistons, ARP throughout, Cometic HG, Coolant gallery casting flashings deburred, AIV delete, PRVR delete, EGR delete, Carbon cannister delete, Throttlebody coolant delete, PTU relocate, HKS DLI Ignition amplifier, 180A BNR alternator, AMS UD/OD Pulleys, AMS Clear Timing Belt Covers, Taurus Efan conversion, 370Z Dual Pop/Dual MAF, Partial AMS 2.5" Intake piping kit, AMS 2.5" Intercooler Piping Kit, RS Performance Intercoolers, Z1 58mm Throttlebodies, MSP manifolds, Z1 GT675rs turbo's, AMS 3" Downpipes, AMS 3"-2.5" Resonated Testpipes, 2.5" *LaBree* catback, Z1 High Performance (6 puck ceramic) Clutch and lightweight flywheel, 1pc Driveshaft, C's Short shifter w/ZSpeed Performance Shifter mount Kit, Nistune ECU, Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC, Greddy Turbo Timer, Apexi NEO AFC, Ipaq PPC w/ECUTalk, + engine bling


----------



## Golden Ear

Wow, that explains the 572whp! Very nice!


----------



## SkizeR

i think i have talked to you on facebook before. dont you live right by AMS? (idk how you have had such good luck with them considering their reputation)...


----------



## jschrauwen

Golden Ear said:


> Wow, that explains the 572whp! Very nice!


Thank you.  
That's on pump gas, 21psi. Not an agressive tune. Had to be etest friendly.


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> i think i have talked to you on facebook before. dont you live right by AMS? (idk how you have had such good luck with them considering their reputation)...


I actually live about 3 hours away (traffic permitting) from AMS. We have talked on FB. You raked me over the coals about my stereo install. I helped you get connected onto 3ZC earlier this year for your stereo ventures and classified ad there.
Contrary to all of the negative hipe you've heard about AMS, I've had great sucess with their products and service. That build was done 6 years ago this month and since then I've put over 60,000kms. That last dyno reading was done Aug 2012. I've done a few improvements since then.


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> I actually live about 3 hours away (traffic permitting) from AMS. We have talked on FB. You raked me over the coals about my stereo install. I helped you get connected onto 3ZC earlier this year for your stereo ventures and classified ad there.
> Contrary to all of the negative hipe you've heard about AMS, I've had great sucess with their products and service. That build was done 6 years ago this month and since then I've put over 60,000kms. That last dyno reading was done Aug 2012. I've done a few improvements since then.


ahhh whats up man. i feel like AMS has something against anyone who isnt from canada. everyone in canada doesnt have a problem with them, but everyone else has terrible luck from them. thats my theory lol


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> ahhh whats up man. i feel like AMS has something against anyone who isnt from canada. everyone in canada doesnt have a problem with them, but everyone else has terrible luck from them. thats my theory lol


It's unfortunate you've bought into rumor and hear-say. Actually, there's a select few vigilante's in the US who are quite vocal about AMS and their biting into the markets of their favorite US vendors. A skewed version of vendor protectionism if you will. The "stories" you hear are usually made up or mostly blown out of proportion.
Case in point. They brood about AMS's outsourcing for parts being made in Asia while companies like Powertrix use rebranded HSD coilovers from Korea. Simply put, it's a double standard in just about every case. I don't want to rain on your parade, but your newly acquired Powertrix Coilovers are from from bullit-proof. A search will reveal that some have had issues with them while others have had success with them. Yet, the AMS haters put down the AMS coilovers simply because they hate AMS and not because of the prodcut itself. This is usually the story everywhere. 99.9 times, these haters have never owned much less even seen a particular AMS product yet they feel compelled to jump on the haters bandwagon about it.
Pretty childish, but that's the way it is for some of them.


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> It's unfortunate you've bought into rumor and hear-say. Actually, there's a select few vigilante's in the US who are quite vocal about AMS and their biting into the markets of their favorite US vendors. A skewed version of vendor protectionism if you will. The "stories" you hear are usually made up or mostly blown out of proportion.
> Case in point. They brood about AMS's outsourcing for parts being made in Asia while companies like Powertrix use rebranded HSD coilovers from Korea. Simply put, it's a double standard in just about every case. I don't want to rain on your parade, but your newly acquired Powertrix Coilovers are from from bullit-proof. A search will reveal that some have had issues with them while others have had success with them. Yet, the AMS haters put down the AMS coilovers simply because they hate AMS and not because of the prodcut itself. This is usually the story everywhere. 99.9 times, these haters have never owned much less even seen a particular AMS product yet they feel compelled to jump on the haters bandwagon about it.
> Pretty childish, but that's the way it is for some of them.


well ive seen it in person. a buddy of mine had a few ams products and none of it fit properly. also they had a problem with their suspension parts. they sent out a bunch that were rusted. i didnt "buy into the rumors" i just see the pictures that people have posted of their stuff not fitting or breaking or coming defective.


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> well ive seen it in person. a buddy of mine had a few ams products and none of it fit properly. also they had a problem with their suspension parts. they sent out a bunch that were rusted. i didnt "buy into the rumors" i just see the pictures that people have posted of their stuff not fitting or breaking or coming defective.


Hard to comment on something like that. But all too often I've seen kids try to install stuff and do a hack job about it. When it doesn't pan out, they blame the product and not their incompetance. I've seen pics as well of broken/failed/rusted Powertrix coilovers but that doesn't mean they're a bad product. There could be a whole host of valid reasons for it. But it's just too easy to point the finger at the product and not the install or installer. Can't paint the whole situation with the same brush. There's people who use after market front fascia's that don't fit right or align properly, or fail to run a splash shield placing their car at great risk yet they seem quite comfortable to point fingers at people using AMS products. You should see the disaster of some of the engine bays I've seen yet those same people have the gall to ridicule me or my engine bay because of my choice for AMS products. Those are the same people that don't have the reliability in their Z to drive outside their city limits where I'll easily do 3000 to 5000km roundtrips to Z events each year. Talk about hipocracy. (sp)


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> Hard to comment on something like that. But all too often I've seen kids try to install stuff and do a hack job about it. When it doesn't pan out, they blame the product and not their incompetance. I've seen pics as well of broken/failed/rusted Powertrix coilovers but that doesn't mean they're a bad product. There could be a whole host of valid reasons for it. But it's just too easy to point the finger at the product and not the install or installer. Can't paint the whole situation with the same brush. There's people who use after market front fascia's that don't fit right or align properly, or fail to run a splash shield placing their car at great risk yet they seem quite comfortable to point fingers at people using AMS products. You should see the disaster of some of the engine bays I've seen yet those same people have the gall to ridicule me or my engine bay because of my choice for AMS products. Those are the same people that don't have the reliability in their Z to drive outside their city limits where I'll easily do 3000 to 5000km roundtrips to Z events each year. Talk about hipocracy. (sp)


but the difference between powertrix and AMS, is powertrix would do something about the problem. AMS on the otherhand...


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> but the difference between powertrix and AMS, is powertrix would do something about the problem. AMS on the otherhand...


I will concede that some of the AMS staff did not handle some situations well. Unfortunately, you're only going to hear the bad stories. Ones that have a good story refrain from saying anything for fear of being browbeaten by the haters. 
Are you refering to the chap who was looking to get a coilover replaced under warranty?


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> I will concede that some of the AMS staff did not handle some situations well. Unfortunately, you're only going to hear the bad stories. Ones that have a good story refrain from saying anything for fear of being browbeaten by the haters.
> Are you refering to the chap who was looking to get a coilover replaced under warranty?


no i do hear some good, and for some reason theyre all canadian!!! like i said before, i think AMS has something against the US lol.


----------



## jschrauwen

SkizeR said:


> no i do hear some good, and for some reason theyre all canadian!!! like i said before, i think AMS has something against the US lol.


Naaa, they don't have anything against the US. heck, that's their biggest market. Truth be told, AMS was always one of the biggest sponsors at the major Z events throughout the US. They have US Z's sponsored as well.
Ask Oscar or Gaige on FB if they like AMS. They're not Canadian.


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> Naaa, they don't have anything against the US. heck, that's their biggest market. Truth be told, AMS was always one of the biggest sponsors at the major Z events throughout the US. They have US Z's sponsored as well.
> Ask Oscar or Gaige on FB if they like AMS. They're not Canadian.


gaige mckoy? i did see him say that he didnt mind them. but as far as sponsors go, i dont think their even allowed to sponsor events anymore.


----------



## JoeHemi57

I've been working in Nissan parts departments for 8 years and currently manage one, that engine bay is the best i've seen on a 90-96. I haven't even checked out the install yet but i'm impressed so far.


----------



## SkizeR

attacking the passenger door today...


----------



## knever3

I'm confused?  I thought this was a great car audio diy build thread not a discussion forum about the roast of AMS.

Great work by the way! Keep the positive updates coming!


----------



## SkizeR

knever3 said:


> I'm confused?  I thought this was a great car audio diy build thread not a discussion forum about the roast of AMS.
> 
> Great work by the way! Keep the positive updates coming!


any 300zx related post becomes an AMS roast lol. but actually i just ordered 1/2 inch hdpe so im gunna wait till i get that to do the doors. the 3/4 is a little to thick. so today im going to start the door pods. wish me luck


----------



## SkizeR

il get pics posted later tonight when i get a new sd to usb converter. in the mean time, is expanding foam easy to shape and sand?


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> In the mean time, is expanding foam easy to shape and sand?


No. At least not the yellow GreatStuf spray foam. It's not dense enough, and has high "surface tension" for lack of a better phrase, which means instead of cutting it with a knife you are better off with a very fine tooth saw moving quickly and lightly. 

A hot knife might work (I've never tried) but I know shaping with a plain knife was a pain. More importantly, if you get it on anything (even the overspray/residue), it will stain and not come off. Just a heads up. 

I probably wouldn't use the stuff again unless it was a trunk application, which generally I would just glass directly into anyway without a "mold".


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> No. At least not the yellow GreatStuf spray foam. It's not dense enough, and has high "surface tension" for lack of a better phrase, which means instead of cutting it with a knife you are better off with a very fine tooth saw moving quickly and lightly.
> 
> A hot knife might work (I've never tried) but I know shaping with a plain knife was a pain. More importantly, if you get it on anything (even the overspray/residue), it will stain and not come off. Just a heads up.
> 
> I probably wouldn't use the stuff again unless it was a trunk application, which generally I would just glass directly into anyway without a "mold".


im using my old door panels as a mold anyway so im not worried about stains. i just need a way to build some sort of mold to glass over. i dont want to do the "pulled fleece" method. it wouldnt be ideal for this situation


----------



## porscheman

a hacksaw blade works well (with or without the frame) and so does a small hand power plainer. after you get it close you can use a small grinder to contour it exactly how you want it. i rebuilt an old mitsi mighty max dash like that years ago, yellow foam dust everywhere though.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Don't laugh. Ive used the green florists foam in a PC case mod before. That crap can be sculpted with clay sculpting tools or just pushed on and crompressed up to 1/4 inch or so. You just have to tape it off before you glass over it.

Only problem is you would have to sculpt it to your door first. I was lucky enough to be applying it to a flat surface.


----------



## SkizeR

i was kinda looking for it to be possibly permanent


----------



## SkizeR

well heres what i got done today.. started off with encountering a not so happy corgi...




taped off the door card.




glassed..





cut some templates that fit the oem speaker grill





and attatched..






tomorrow il do the drivers side and hopefully figure out what im going to use to build that out..


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> i was kinda looking for it to be possibly permanent


Yeah i never tried but I wasnt taking the chance of having resin eat the foam.


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> well heres what i got done today.. started off with encountering a not so happy corgi...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> taped off the door card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glassed..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cut some templates that fit the oem speaker grill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and attatched..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tomorrow il do the drivers side and hopefully figure out what im going to use to build that out..


Looking damn good.


----------



## SkizeR

cant wait till these pods are done so i can try out some of that carbon fiber


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> cant wait till these pods are done so i can try out some of that carbon fiber


I dont have the balls for carbon fiber. I can only get away with things that stretch a ton.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I dont have the balls for carbon fiber. I can only get away with things that stretch a ton.


carbon fiber doesnt stretch, but its weaved, so its just as pliable, if not more than vinyl. the stuff i have has much more give than any fiberglass cloth ive used. il see if i can get a pic describing what im talking about


----------



## REGULARCAB

I can see with it being weaved you can get a lot of lateral movement out of it. I hadn't thought of that.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I can see with it being weaved you can get a lot of lateral movement out of it. I hadn't thought of that.


its a lot looser than you would think too


----------



## schmiddr2

SkizeR said:


> its a lot looser than you would think too


My date just said the same thing. :mean:


Anyways, stuff like this will be much more like floral foam and easy to carve/sculpt: Urethane Rigid Pour Flotation Foam 3 lb Density Gallon Kits 2 Gallons Total | eBay


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> *My date just said the same thing. :mean:*
> 
> 
> Anyways, stuff like this will be much more like floral foam and easy to carve/sculpt: Urethane Rigid Pour Flotation Foam 3 lb Density Gallon Kits 2 Gallons Total | eBay


how did i know someone was gunna say something like that? And i cant buy anything online, i dont have anything in my paypal right now :/


----------



## SkizeR

woke up late today. didnt get to work on it :/


----------



## jschrauwen

Audio System Almost Tears Car Apart! : Caught on Camera : Canoe TV


----------



## SkizeR

jschrauwen said:


> Audio System Almost Tears Car Apart! : Caught on Camera : Canoe TV


that looks like hail..


----------



## SkizeR

still trying to find out where i can get some of that foam locally. maybe il just try the expanding foam. all i need is a rough shape.


----------



## JayinMI

From what I've read, if you use regular expanding foam (like Great stuff) you need to put a layer of body filler over it before you add cloth and resin, because resin eats that stuff.

The local fiberglass supply house sells the 2 part expanding foam, so if you have one near you, maybe they'll carry it.

Why was the Corgi upset?

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> From what I've read, if you use regular expanding foam (like Great stuff) you need to put a layer of body filler over it before you add cloth and resin, because resin eats that stuff.
> 
> The local fiberglass supply house sells the 2 part expanding foam, so if you have one near you, maybe they'll carry it.
> 
> *Why was the Corgi upset?*
> 
> Jay


hes mad cause hes fat and has tiny legs lol. kidding.. i just got a picture at the perfect time of him yawning


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> hes mad cause hes fat and has tiny legs


Sounds like some people I know. Still waiting on some progress, come on this is all i have to do between patients. Less QQ more pew pew


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Sounds like some people I know. Still waiting on some progress, come on this is all i have to do between patients. Less QQ more pew pew


you a doctor?


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> you a doctor?


If I dont reply will everyone just go on assuming I am?

Nah health unit coordinator for the ED today. I take all the orders from the doc's and order them on the computer..... im over simplifying.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> If I dont reply will everyone just go on assuming I am?
> 
> Nah health unit coordinator for the ED today. I take all the orders from the doc's and order them on the computer..... im over simplifying.


Sounds fun

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> Sounds fun
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


About as much fun as wrapping those pods in carbon fiber


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> About as much fun as wrapping those pods in carbon fiber


we will see about that..


----------



## SkizeR

day two on the door pods.. wish me luck


----------



## optimaprime

Luck is wished


----------



## SkizeR

optimaprime said:


> Luck is wished


luck was recieved..


----------



## damonryoung

SkizeR said:


> luck was recieved..


but, was luck put to use??


----------



## SkizeR

DRTHJTA said:


> but, was luck put to use??


Yes sir. Pics to come.. lets just say i was covered in fiberglass 20 minutes ago

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## REGULARCAB

Looking forward to it.


----------



## SkizeR

so today i roughly finished the one pod, and started the other. ended up just doing the stretched fleece instead of molding foam. 

stared off the morning with this guy again.







cut and test fitted the mold..






glass glass glass glass...






selfie. #swag







test fit after a little rough sand..





thats pretty much it for that one for now. heres the start of the other side..









and an epic pic from my driveway to end the day...


----------



## SkizeR

tommorrow il be bondo'ing them and getting them flushed to the door. same with the oem grills


----------



## rockytophigh

I just read this whole damn thing. Fine journey sir. I commend you.


----------



## SkizeR

rockytophigh said:


> I just read this whole damn thing. Fine journey sir. I commend you.


thank you. were not even halfway there yet though lol


----------



## SkizeR

getting a late start on it today.. just stopped raining out.


----------



## SkizeR

what do you guys think... vinyl, suede, or carbon fiber for the door pods?


----------



## damonryoung

SkizeR said:


> what do you guys think... vinyl, suede, or carbon fiber for the door pods?


I've always been partial to the suede in these cars...


----------



## SkizeR

anyone care to chime in why the melodic acoustic intimid8r is modeling like this?


----------



## strakele

Because you're doing it wrong.


----------



## SkizeR

strakele said:


> Because you're doing it wrong.


every other speaker i model comes out normal though except that one


----------



## subwoofery

SkizeR said:


> every other speaker i model comes out normal though except that one


Which parameters did you use? 

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> Which parameters did you use?
> 
> Kelvin


all the ones listed in the "pre-sale" thread. are there some that dont need to be put in? what are the ones i actually 100% need to get a good prediction


----------



## captainobvious

Agreed, there's something wrong there. When I model it, it looks great. 

As for the doors, since there appears to be a carpet material there currently, I'd either do carpet or suede.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Agreed, there's something wrong there. When I model it, it looks great.
> 
> As for the doors, since there appears to be a carpet material there currently, I'd either do carpet or suede.


Well those are just my extra door cards, the ones I'm using has black suede where the tweed is. Underneath the pod I made is black vinyl.


----------



## SkizeR

dont you love when your parents threaten to send you back to the people they adopted you from just for bondo'ing something on the driveway? on that note, no ****in progress today...


----------



## SkizeR

Anyone have expiernece with us composites feather-rite body filler and their vinyl ester resin? Would the vinyl ester resin be worth it over the regular marine grade resin?


----------



## SkizeR

small update. the main installer/fabricator at work, Pete, gave me a little gift. only one small problem... when he got them, he wanted to make em smaller and never finished lol


----------



## schmiddr2

Awesome! Now where you gonna put them?


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> Awesome! Now where you gonna put them?


theyre gunna hibernate in my room along with the rest of my equipment for the next few years until i get this car together.. :laugh:

but really, theyre the exact same tweeters i already have, so im going to buy a spare set of a pillars and sail panels and experiment. should be fun.


----------



## poweraudio

Looking good. Nice build


----------



## SkizeR

my whole engine needs to be shipped to texas! yayyyyy!!!! ****ing kill me :hanged:


----------



## REGULARCAB

Wouldn't happen if you drove a cheap ass Chevy truck


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Wouldn't happen if you drove a cheap ass Chevy truck


now why would i do that to myself?


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> my whole engine needs to be shipped to texas! yayyyyy!!!! ****ing kill me :hanged:


Why's that?


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Why's that?


looks like the previous owner had the timing belt snap and sent a valve inside the drivers side cylinders. there was a little bit of damage to the pistons and cylinder walls. now i gotta spend a few grand plus shipping to get everything all good again


----------



## vivmike

Damn. You better never sell this car after all this BS.


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> looks like the previous owner had the timing belt snap and sent a valve inside the drivers side cylinders. there was a little bit of damage to the pistons and cylinder walls. now i gotta spend a few grand plus shipping to get everything all good again


Sorry to hear that bro! Are they gonna port & polish while they have it?


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Sorry to hear that bro! Are they gonna port & polish while they have it?


Just gunna completely build the block and heads. Might as well do it right the first time. I have no idea how im gunna pay for it but like always, il find a way

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

vivmike said:


> Damn. You better never sell this car after all this BS.


I dont plan on it.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## REGULARCAB

Any updates for the peanut gallery on ur engine rebuild?


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Any updates for the peanut gallery on ur engine rebuild?


nope. i doubt there will be any for a while too. local mountain just opened so il be snowboarding almost everyday until the end of march.


----------



## Thunderplains

SkizeR said:


> il be snowboarding almost everyday until the end of march.


Right on bud.. same here in Colorado.. snow hits and everything except food and sleep are on pause for some quality shredding..


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> Right on bud.. same here in Colorado.. snow hits and everything except food and sleep are on pause for some quality shredding..


FINALLLLYYYYY someone who understands me lol. except food and sleep arent even a necessity, just gas money to get there lol. where do you ride?


----------



## Thunderplains

In the 20 years I have been boarding, I've learned that local is the way to go.. Monarch is good.. Loveland, Copper Mountain, Arapahoe Basin.. Not much of a half pipe, trick type.. Just give me 13,000 feet and straight down... Now we're talking.. wide open steep bowls with powder galore..

Go to the bigger, tourist mountains (i.e. Vail, Breck, Aspen, etc) and the chance of you getting a run in with a skier wearing $10,000 worth of clothing who can't ski for the life of them is almost at every turn.. no thanks


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> In the 20 years I have been boarding, I've learned that local is the way to go.. Monarch is good.. Loveland, Copper Mountain, Arapahoe Basin.. Not much of a half pipe, trick type.. Just give me 13,000 feet and straight down... Now we're talking.. wide open steep bowls with powder galore..
> 
> Go to the bigger, tourist mountains (i.e. Vail, Breck, Aspen, etc) and the chance of you getting a run in with a skier wearing $10,000 worth of clothing who can't ski for the life of them is almost at every turn.. no thanks


yeah i stay in the park (typical kid lol).. when i was out in colorado i didnt really like breck or vail but loved keystone. their park is on point


----------



## Thunderplains

Keystone is a great mountain.. again, local.. Everyone goes to Break.. crazy place during the season.. No thanks.. So, you dont like steep runs? Come on out, we'll go cat-boarding up on a bowl at 14k..


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> Keystone is a great mountain.. again, local.. Everyone goes to Break.. crazy place during the season.. No thanks.. So, you dont like steep runs? Come on out, we'll go cat-boarding up on a bowl at 14k..


The very few times i did, i loved it. But growing up riding in jersey im a park rat

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## quietfly

which mountain are you going to? hunter?


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> which mountain are you going to? hunter?


I go to creek almost every day

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Thunderplains

I don't know man... I mean Mtn creek...










And then Colorado.. well..










I guess for NJ..


----------



## SkizeR

mountain creek...

yes these shots are of me.


----------



## Thunderplains

I could not do that park stuff, i'd end up killing myself.. 

Weird.. dropping off a cliff going almost vertical vs. riding a pipe, grinding a rail, etc.. I guess I see it as a huge rush when you hit the edge and you can watch the board literally stick out into the wind before you drop..


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> I could not do that park stuff, i'd end up killing myself..
> 
> Weird.. dropping off a cliff going almost vertical vs. riding a pipe, grinding a rail, etc.. I guess I see it as a huge rush when you hit the edge and you can watch the board literally stick out into the wind before you drop..


i dont even know if i would be snowboarding if there was no such thing as park. i actually have a video dropping soon that il post


----------



## quietfly

I was just hunting out the way. my buddy had some excess permits, to many damn deer.... i learnt how to ski at vernon valley, back in the day. yup i am That old, it'll always be Vernon Valley Great Gorge to me


----------



## SkizeR

me and a couple friends from the past 2 weeks or so..

https://vimeo.com/82384600


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> I was just hunting out the way. my buddy had some excess permits, to many damn deer.... i learnt how to ski at vernon valley, back in the day. yup i am That old, it'll always be Vernon Valley Great Gorge to me


what about action park? haha remember that nightmare?


----------



## quietfly

thunder @unts..... NICE!!!


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> thunder @unts..... NICE!!!


Thats us  hahaha

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

ded·i·ca·tion noun \ˌde-di-ˈkā-shən\ : when your banned from doing fiberglass at your house so you use the time from midnight to 1 am that your family used to go to midnight mass at church to have a first attempt at carbon fiber while 18 degrees Fahrenheit outside on christmas eve night... BOOM

Merry Christmas everyone


----------



## rockytophigh

That's strong my friend....strong indeed.


----------



## peenemunde

SkizeR said:


> looks like the previous owner had the timing belt snap and sent a valve inside the drivers side cylinders. there was a little bit of damage to the pistons and cylinder walls. now i gotta spend a few grand plus shipping to get everything all good again


Buy a used motor with low miles, rebuild it and install yourself. Or bore the current block out and run oversized pistons. Going this route will require a new/used head and cam kit as well. Both of these options should be far less $$$ then shipping your motor across country and having a shop do exactly as I posted above, anyway  

Or..... You could always drop the Nissan motor entirely and install a Chevy 350... Dat horsepower though! 

Great build, btw! Car should be fun when you get it done


----------



## SkizeR

Anyone have expierence with the us composites surfboard resin? I applied it last night and mixed it extremely hot and its still not dry. Maybe its temperature related

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

anyone? ^^^


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> Anyone have expierence with the us composites surfboard resin? I applied it last night and mixed it extremely hot and its still not dry. Maybe its temperature related
> 
> Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


I'm not seeing the "surfboard resin" on their site. What number? I believe a lot of folks (myself incldued) use the 435. 
But I would tend to agree that the slow setup is probably due to temperature. 18F is COLD.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> I'm not seeing the "surfboard resin" on their site. What number? I believe a lot of folks (myself incldued) use the 435.
> But I would tend to agree that the slow setup is probably due to temperature. 18F is COLD.


its under polyester resins. and its not for structure or anything, its what im using just for carbon fiber. its been 2 days and still slightly tacky. gotta be the cold weather. i have vinyl ester resin for everything else


----------



## quietfly

its not only the temp but the humidity, its been pretty humid and cold here. ( which is close enough to you i'm guessing to be the same) try a hiar drier on low for a couple hours to make the resin flash faster.... just becareful low isn't too hot...


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> its not only the temp but the humidity, its been pretty humid and cold here. ( which is close enough to you i'm guessing to be the same) try a hiar drier on low for a couple hours to make the resin flash faster.... just becareful low isn't too hot...


Yeah i have been every few hours. Still a tad bit tacky.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SPLEclipse

Good luck getting that to cure. Using polyester resin at sub freezing temperatures will inhibit curing to a point where the catalyst will flash off faster than the reaction can happen. Even mixing up a hot batch won't work.


----------



## SkizeR

SPLEclipse said:


> Good luck getting that to cure. Using polyester resin at sub freezing temperatures will inhibit curing to a point where the catalyst will flash off faster than the reaction can happen. Even mixing up a hot batch won't work.


i literally mixed it 50-50... hot is an understatement


----------



## SkizeR

got one pillar wrapped in vinyl.. took about 2.5 hours because of the drastic contours of them. didnt come out 100% perfect, but its still pretty good. ignore the glue thats on it. i wiped it off after i took pics

on the one side of the pillar it sits flush with the tweeter, and wraps around halfway to the edge and falls off and leaves the tweeter raised on the other side

before:







after:


----------



## REGULARCAB

Nice work, seeing a pillar with contours like that wrapped in vinyl makes me want to do mine.


----------



## SkizeR

yeah, and to think i had it wrapped with suede that didnt stretch to much at one point. to bad that was before i decided to clean them up


----------



## REGULARCAB

Ive debated flocking, sem paint, fricken carpet, i may just have to try some vinyl. Did you start laying it on the baffle and go from there?


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Ive debated flocking, sem paint, fricken carpet, i may just have to try some vinyl. Did you start laying it on the baffle and go from there?


i actually started at the top and worked my way down. when i got to where it starts contouring, i just started doing the front, then heated the rest of the vinyl pretty good, and stretched as much as i could going up and over the face of it and down the center of the back part. then worked my way out on each side, then repeated till it was good


----------



## schmiddr2

I have never wrapped, but I would think I would start with the hard part that needs the most pulling on the material. It looks good though. GJ. Did you use 4-way stretch?


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> I have never wrapped, but I would think I would start with the hard part that needs the most pulling on the material. It looks good though. GJ. Did you use 4-way stretch?


honestly i have no idea what vinyl it is. it was scrap left over from work


----------



## SkizeR

happy new years everyone. i was going to work on the other pillar and the door pods but last night was a bit rough haha


----------



## SkizeR

got em both wrapped. the one i just did turned out better. i might get some more vinyl and re-do the first one i did.









and question.. silver or black


----------



## edzyy

BLack


----------



## SkizeR

hmmmmm


----------



## REGULARCAB

See I vote silver... If you have any other silver in the interior


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> See I vote silver... If you have any other silver in the interior


nope all black. the thing is if i went with silver, i would need to order a second faceplate which scanspeak discontinued because the person who gave them to me tried cutting them to make them smaller


----------



## REGULARCAB

Well hell, then there is no question. I would go black.


----------



## SkizeR

im sure i can get a replacement


----------



## phxdemon

Looks great! Where did you get the vinyl?


----------



## phxdemon

Also go black for the tweeters.


----------



## SkizeR

phxdemon said:


> Looks great! Where did you get the vinyl?


the vinyl was left over scrap from work. so im not really sure


----------



## phxdemon

SkizeR said:


> the vinyl was left over scrap from work. so im not really sure


Damn. I have been failing with flocking my a pillars and after seeing the flexibility of that vinyl I think I can make that work instead.


----------



## SkizeR

phxdemon said:


> Damn. I have been failing with flocking my a pillars and after seeing the flexibility of that vinyl I think I can make that work instead.


post a pic of them


----------



## REGULARCAB

Dude your like the if he can do it I can do it poster child now


----------



## phxdemon

SkizeR said:


> post a pic of them


lol they look like ****


----------



## SkizeR

thats gunna be tough, but so were mine. just get the 4 way stretch vinyl


----------



## phxdemon

SkizeR said:


> thats gunna be tough, but so were mine. just get the 4 way stretch vinyl


They are pretty straight just primered up. 



If I vinyl wrap them it will be the nicest looking interior piece in my car (toyota yaris) :laugh: I may just paint the a satin black color and cal it a day. I really like the texture of flocking but am finding it impossible to get an even finish.


----------



## SkizeR

phxdemon said:


> They are pretty straight just primered up.
> 
> 
> 
> If I vinyl wrap them it will be the nicest looking interior piece in my car (toyota yaris) :laugh: I may just paint the a satin black color and cal it a day. I really like the texture of flocking but am finding it impossible to get an even finish.


what about wrinkle paint, or sem paint


----------



## phxdemon

SkizeR said:


> what about wrinkle paint, or sem paint


Those would also be possible options. Ill figure it out after I sand the flocking off.


----------



## SkizeR

no updates on the car but heres what ive been doing on the days its to cold to work on the car(s)...

https://vimeo.com/83407419


----------



## SkizeR

still to cold to work on the car. but not to cold to snowboard 

https://vimeo.com/84340428


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> still to cold to work on the car. but not to cold to snowboard
> 
> https://vimeo.com/84340428



lol sure.....


----------



## quietfly

actually the past few days its been warm and rainy around here....


----------



## REGULARCAB

Ever decide what midbass you are going for. I mean I know snowboarding is cool and all but youve got decisions to make.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Ever decide what midbass you going for. I mean I know snorboarding is cool and all but youve got decisions to make.


this is true. still debating lol


----------



## SkizeR

like i reallly reallllyyy realllly realllyyy want the dyn mw182's but idk if they will fit and woofers etc just raised their price another 70 dollars per woofer.


----------



## REGULARCAB

mw182 tech specs get a measuring tape and figure it out! I would love a pair but another $140 just because you waited too long would be a hard pill to swallow.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> mw182 tech specs get a measuring tape and figure it out! I would love a pair but another $140 just because you waited too long would be a hard pill to swallow.


i didnt wait to long.. i just didnt have money lol. im gunna see if i can get them through the shop i worked at over the summer


----------



## REGULARCAB

Lol that i can understand, I wouldnt have had the money either way. But I am living vicariously through you peoples build logs so get on it...

EDIT: hah my dumb ass didn't realize the 182 was the ten inch. Ouch, arent the doors in the nissan like only 18 inches tall?


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Lol that i can understand, I wouldnt have had the money either way. But I am living vicariously through you peoples build logs so get on it...
> 
> EDIT: hah my dumb ass didn't realize the 182 was the ten inch. Ouch, arent the doors in the nissan like only 18 inches tall?


yeah pretty much


----------



## 94VG30DE

REGULARCAB said:


> Ever decide what midbass you are going for? I mean I know snowboarding is cool and all but you've got decisions to make.


The forum is here to keep you motivated during the winter, lol  :laugh: _Priorities _


----------



## SkizeR

so keep me motivated by suggesting me to get larger 8-9.5 inch midbass's


----------



## REGULARCAB

Was it req that did the ID8's? Do that, what could go wrong lol


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Was it req that did the ID8's? Do that, what could go wrong lol


not a bad idea. little to deep though i think


----------



## SkizeR

looks like i made my choice on mid-bass speakers. completely forgot the shop i worked at over the summer is a dealer for Dynaudio.. just scored some MW182's for dealer price!


----------



## thehatedguy

Can't ever go wrong with Dyn!


----------



## SkizeR

now comes the fun part.. fitting them in the door


----------



## Golden Ear

Why the Dyns over the Intims?


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> Why the Dyns over the Intims?


do i need to answer that? lol


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> do i need to answer that? lol


It would be helpful. I wasn't sure if the Intims ever got klippelled or not. I know Bikinipunk was going to do it.


----------



## SkizeR

Golden Ear said:


> It would be helpful. I wasn't sure if the Intims ever got klippelled or not. I know Bikinipunk was going to do it.


i actually asked him if he wanted to use mine for it and he said he didnt want to even bother. to be honest i kinda feel the same way. they are just 8 inch versions of the old usd audio subs. they even come in the same box.

besides that, the intims have 3mm xmax and 6mm xmech with 214cm² cone area, compared to the dyns 9mm xmax and 26mm xmech with 235cm² of cone area. not bashing but this one is a no brainer lol


----------



## Golden Ear

SkizeR said:


> i actually asked him if he wanted to use mine for it and he said he didnt want to even bother. to be honest i kinda feel the same way. they are just 8 inch versions of the old usd audio subs. they even come in the same box.
> 
> besides that, the intims have 3mm xmax and 6mm xmech with 214cm² cone area, compared to the dyns 9mm xmax and 26mm xmech with 235cm² of cone area. not bashing but this one is a no brainer lol


Wow, that is a no-brainer. Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## Darkrider

Great build so far man. reading through this build thread has got me thinking about all sorts of crazy. I'm hoping we all get some warmer weather soon.


----------



## quietfly

Well its been a week.... have you been SLUMMING(Snowboarding) this entire time?:laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> Well its been a week.... have you been SLUMMING(Snowboarding) this entire time?:laugh:


yes actually. today was my first day not going in a while. its been brutally cold (as you know, your only 15 miles or so from me). do have some good news though..


----------



## SkizeR

also have the JL ZR800 on standby. not sure if i should bother with the intimid8rs at this point


----------



## thehatedguy

You sure they are the same as the USD...cause I would think differently. I know the build house that did the Intims, and I don't recall a USD speaker coming from them.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> You sure they are the same as the USD...cause I would think differently. I know the build house that did the Intims, and I don't recall a USD speaker coming from them.


gimme 30 mins..


----------



## thehatedguy

Going back and looking at some of the Speaker Works installs...I might would/could believe that.

USD had so many different "house" speakers over the years, I guess you could and probably are right.

But I would still like to see.


----------



## SkizeR

well here we go. ive always wanted to kinda show this to the people here, but was also reluctant to at the same time. but, oh well. if your gunna copy something pretty much piece for piece, people will eventually put 2 and 2 together. i even PM'd Marc (i think his name is, "Melodic Acoustic" on here if they were the same or similar, basically just looking for an answer.. he never messaged back. hiding something?

first off, same boxes.







next, same cone (and laminating pattern) and dust cap. also has the same screw hole pattern and the holes are the same shape with a very similar gasket on the top..








cant really see the hole on the usd one cause theres a small strip of foam covering it, but both holes are the same "uppercase D" shape..





same terminals (they said in their pre-sale thread these ones were to keep cost down.. or was it already on the drivers they picked out??)..




same basket.. notice the little tabs. although the intimid8r has triangles stamped on the spokes and the usd subs have an oval, theyre the same. also take a look at the numbering on the bottom of the cone. its the same color, same font, and same type of pattern/sequence. 





here i have a witness who watched the whole time i took pics..






same motor.. 











same suspension. (sorry for the quality, its hard to focus when your stopped down to 1.8 in low light)







literally EVERYTHING is the same, except the size.

Any questions?


----------



## mmiller

Why are they in a made in the USA Box when they came from overseas? Lol


----------



## SkizeR

mmiller said:


> Why are they in a made in the USA Box when they came from overseas? Lol


no idea lol


----------



## thehatedguy

Interesting


----------



## thehatedguy

Who said which was made overseas?

I don't remember anyone said the 8s were made overseas.

If you have the number on back of the cone of the 10s, I might could tell you if the USD is an off the shelf driver from that particular place...and I bet it was sold at a high premium. USD uses/used several off the shelf drivers with their dustcaps.

Oh, you have a PM too.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Who said which was made overseas?
> 
> I don't remember anyone said the 8s were made overseas.
> 
> If you have the number on back of the cone of the 10s, I might could tell you if the USD is an off the shelf driver from that particular place...and I bet it was sold at a high premium. USD uses/used several off the shelf drivers with their dustcaps.
> 
> Oh, you have a PM too.


the number on the USD's cone is: 

451044-1
136


the number on the intimid8r is:

45843-1-L 129-12


----------



## mmiller

thehatedguy said:


> Who said which was made overseas?
> 
> I don't remember anyone said the 8s were made overseas.
> 
> If you have the number on back of the cone of the 10s, I might could tell you if the USD is an off the shelf driver from that particular place...and I bet it was sold at a high premium. USD uses/used several off the shelf drivers with their dustcaps.
> 
> Oh, you have a PM too.


99% sure the 8's were made overseas.


----------



## thehatedguy

Unless the OEM made them at their CHina location and shipped them back to their US location where they also make speakers.

But I am fairly certain they are/were made in the US...I know who.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Unless the OEM made them at their CHina location and shipped them back to their US location where they also make speakers.
> 
> But I am fairly certain they are/were made in the US...I know who.


Honestly, who cares where its made. Either way its an off the shelf speaker being sold as a "high end" midbass for 550 dollars..

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## thehatedguy

It's not off the shelf, they don't have a single other speaker forsale retail wise that have the same specs.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> It's not off the shelf, they don't have a single other speaker forsale retail wise that have the same specs.


thats true. so whats your opinion on this?


----------



## thehatedguy

I think the build house makes good speakers, often over looked.

The specs for car use are pretty good. Personally I would like a few more dB sensitivity, but you wouldn't have the lowend if you made that trade. The excursion is limited for LF response...but if you high passed them at a reasonable value, you shouldn't be in trouble. Technology wise, nothing special. Price wise, they were a bit high priced when new. However it was a small run (by OEM standards) so that could be reflected in the pricing too...make a million speakers, then the price comes down. Never heard them though so can't comment on the sonics.


----------



## SPLEclipse

I could go in my speaker room and probably find another speaker that looks a lot like either one of those. The PRV midbasses I have in my car have the same basket, terminals, and raised spider. Aside from the oddly similar boxes, I'm not convinced they are related anymore than another driver that uses the same ubiquitous parts. :shrug:


----------



## thehatedguy

I wouldn't think the PRV is...but the USD and the 8 are more than likely built by the same people.

But I see what you are saying and agree 100 percent.


----------



## cajunner

so that's where those old 8" frames that dry-rotted in Credence's inventory bins ended up.

throw a hemp cone on, glue it down to a new gasket, voila, great success...

what were they before, I think they look like the Eminence buildhouse product, really..

then again, I've seen these kinds of motors on some surplus stock that came out of winkasettie's stash of Pro-Audio styled stuff.

could be anyone, I guess. Eminence Pro, Beta CX, sort of fits the bill..

Speaker Detail | Eminence Speaker


----------



## thehatedguy

Beta CX is a coax though.


----------



## Thunderplains

SkizeR said:


> also have the JL ZR800 on standby. not sure if i should bother with the intimid8rs at this point


Do I see a Fi 12" sub in the background? My first sub.. GREAT sub


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> Do I see a Fi 12" sub in the background? My first sub.. GREAT sub


Fi q 10

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Thunderplains

I had the Fi Q 12.. Great sub


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> I had the Fi Q 12.. Great sub


It is. Its a monster

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

no updates on the car.. but heres a new snowboard edit i made 

https://vimeo.com/86476007


----------



## SkizeR

small update.. finally got the Dynaudio mw182 midbass's. i think they will be able to fit. they definitely shallow enough and i think i can cut enough metal to squeeze them in.


----------



## Mike Bober

going in the doors or kick panels?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Mike Bober said:


> going in the doors or kick panels?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


doors. no room in the kicks. plus thats where im putting the midranges


----------



## Mike Bober

nice....i need some of those next

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Thunderplains

You have too much crap sitting in your room bud, should be in the car


----------



## SkizeR

Thunderplains said:


> You have too much crap sitting in your room bud, should be in the car


haha thats not even all of it. and yeah it should, but the car is literally buried under 2 and a half feet of snow on all sides and everywhere in between.


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> haha thats not even all of it. and yeah it should, but the car is literally buried under 2 and a half feet of snow on all sides and everywhere in between.


I will admit, I was reading about all you pansies complaining about the cold and the snow thinking what a bunch of lazy bums yall are. Then it started to rain a little last saturday and i was like, nope I think I will wait till sunday :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I will admit, I was reading about all you pansies complaining about the cold and the snow thinking what a bunch of lazy bums yall are. Then it started to rain a little last saturday and i was like, nope I think I will wait till sunday :laugh:


come dig out my car and maybe il have some real progress lol. il post a pic of where you might find it tomorrow


----------



## Mike Bober

My car is buried in snow also...and i cant remove it because there is no place to put it! sucksss!!!


----------



## JayinMI

My uncle's neighbor was shoveling his driveway into the back of his pickup. When the bed got full he disappeared for awhile and came back, to continue. Not sure where he put it, but we speculate another neighbor might have a lot more snow to deal with that the other houses on the block. lol

Jay


----------



## JayinMI

This debate about rebadged off the shelf speakers sounds alot like the Arc Black debacle from a year or so ago, which basically said Arc Black=SB Acoustics, IIRC.

Now, a lot of companies use build houses to make speakers. They have a selection of parts that already exist. Why reinvent the wheel? So, they pick a basket that meets their needs off the shelf. A magnet structure that meets it's needs, a cone (or perhaps, they have the build house make some changes to an exisiting cone design to meet their needs), etc. In the end, the speaker LOOKS very much like many others already on the market. That does not guarantee they are the same as some other off the shelf speaker. It just means they use similar parts.

If people bought speakers based solely on appearance, Audiobahn would still be in business. lol

Jay


----------



## Notloudenuf

JayinMI said:


> If people bought speakers based solely on appearance, Audiobahn would still be in business. lol
> 
> Jay


They are back in business. Catalog

:mean:


----------



## SkizeR

here ya go Regcab, start diggin lol.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Eh... *****:laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Eh... *****:laugh:


truuuu


----------



## SkizeR

starting to get warm out. now that i sold most of my performance parts, i can fully concentrate on the audio. cant wait to get working on it again


----------



## REGULARCAB

We cant wait either!


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> We cant wait either!


at least you havent had these teasing you all fall and winter...


----------



## REGULARCAB

Are you a gun owner by any chance? Cuz its likely im going track you down and steal all your nice ****.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Are you a gun owner by any chance? Cuz its likely im going track you down and steal all your nice ****.


do i personally own a gun? no. are there some in the house? yes. i also have one very vicious guard dog..


----------



## REGULARCAB

The little ones always seem to have the most fight in em... much like my wife


----------



## deeppinkdiver

That dog looks pretty serious about what ever he is saying..lol


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> The little ones always seem to have the most fight in em... much like my wife


yeah about that..


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> yeah about that..


...... already asleep when i come to bed, another thing that reminds me of my wife :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> ...... already asleep when i come to bed, another thing that reminds me of my wife :laugh:


yeah but does she sleep with her ass on your pillow? didnt think so


----------



## carlr

SkizeR said:


> yeah but does she sleep with her ass on your pillow? didnt think so


Possibly the funniest thing I have read in years :laugh:


----------



## 07azhhr

I see a down payment on a house in AZ right there. Then you wuld not be waiting for the snow to melt 



SkizeR said:


> at least you havent had these teasing you all fall and winter...


----------



## Schizm

How about her as on your head and pillow? 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

07azhhr said:


> I see a down payment on a house in AZ right there. Then you wuld not be waiting for the snow to melt


but that means no car or car audio and most importantly, no snowboarding :/


----------



## REGULARCAB

There's enough young punks in AZ they have to have figured out sand boarding by now right?


----------



## SkizeR

Teaser for the video im making. the mountain closes on april 1st so thats when this build resumes!

https://vimeo.com/90196273


----------



## quietfly

that ultimo is just sitting there..... UGH...... the horror....


----------



## quality_sound

quietfly said:


> that ultimo is just sitting there..... UGH...... the horror....


I have one chilling in my garage and it's not going to get used at all.


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> that ultimo is just sitting there..... UGH...... the horror....


**those ultimos :laugh:


----------



## quietfly

SkizeR said:


> **those ultimos :laugh:


I hate you


----------



## SkizeR

alternator swap, day 2...


----------



## quietfly

sweet... did you guys get that early morning snow yesterday... I was so mad i could spit. but then by 3pm 60... march just couldn't leave without a finall F you


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> sweet... did you guys get that early morning snow yesterday... I was so mad i could spit. but then by 3pm 60... march just couldn't leave without a finall F you


considering i wake up at like 2pm everday, i have no idea lol but just got everything all together. il post pics in a bit. im going to try and get all the wiring nice and tidy on the inside so i can start putting some stuff back together so i can make the kick panels.


----------



## SkizeR

new (to me) vs. old..




had to do a little bit of cutting. on the stock one, the bottom bracket is only about a half an inch thick, compared to the irragi's which is a little over an inch. of coarse i found this out AFTER i got the alt bolted on last night.








so.. tomorrow is gunna be a busy day of organizing wires on the interior. but, does anyone know of any sort of tool that can cut thru sheet metal and get in realllllyyyy tight spot? angle grinder and even a dremel arent able to get in the very tight spots of my kick panels





note to the family after i already had to replace the heating element of my brand new hakko iron once..


----------



## Big_Valven

Tough wheels!


----------



## schmiddr2

Are you welding enclosures into the kicks, or fiberglassing? How much volume do you think you will have? My assumption, so tell me if I'm wrong, the Dyn designed for large enclosure or IB installation, to get the low Fs?


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> Are you welding enclosures into the kicks, or fiberglassing? How much volume do you think you will have? My assumption, so tell me if I'm wrong, the Dyn designed for large enclosure or IB installation, to get the low Fs?


dyns arent going in the kicks.. the scanspeak mids are. dyns are going in the doors


----------



## schmiddr2

Ahh. Makes more sense. So welding or no?


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> Ahh. Makes more sense. So welding or no?


i might to help with structural integrity of the car since im taking a big chunk out of the kick panels. but mostly fiberglass


----------



## 94VG30DE

Correct me if I'm wrong, but did you just cut through > 50% of the cross section of the unibody, directly above one of the body jack points? I had that panel specifically hold my z32 together in a t-bone accident, so I can't imagine cutting it...


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but did you just cut through > 50% of the cross section of the unibody, directly above one of the body jack points? I had that panel specifically hold my z32 together in a t-bone accident, so I can't imagine cutting it...


thats the part that i left. the part that i cut was just a sheet of metal that held the kickpanel, and a fusebox


----------



## SkizeR

wellll.. since mids are going in my kicks cause theres no where else to put em, i have to relocate all these plugs. i should have thought of that when i relocated the fuse boxes. oh well.





this guy watching the whole time..







those are all the pics i got from today. nothing really worth taking pics of.


----------



## quietfly

hope you are ready for the rain tonight and tomorrow


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> hope you are ready for the rain tonight and tomorrow


really?? fuuhhhhhhhqqqqqqqqq


----------



## SkizeR

so much for that rain today.. it was gorgeous out. got pretty much all the wiring in the drivers side kick panel done


----------



## SkizeR

To do list for the foreseeable future..

1) finish organizing wire in the kickpanels. should take a couple hours
2) sand off any surface rust that gathered on the kickpanels over the winter and paint over it
3) deaden in and around kick panel 
4) clean, and install carpet
5) make mounting boards for everything behind the dash (ecu, random modules, fusebox, and external voltage regulator)
6) attempt to put the dash back together.
7) make me some kick panels

but first gotta figure out how im going to properly vent them to the outside without letting the elements get in


----------



## SkizeR

thanks for the lookout mom.. lol


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Hahaa. She must think you have the skills.


----------



## SkizeR

deeppinkdiver said:


> Hahaa. She must think you have the skills.


i dont have skills when it comes to lying to customers about how awesome a pair of these kicker comps or MTX terminators would be if they bought em lol. the brutal honesty inside me would prob tell everyone that everything theyre looking at sucks and they should look elsewhere if they wanted halfway decent stuff lol


----------



## cajunner

SkizeR said:


> i dont have skills when it comes to lying to customers about how awesome a pair of these kicker comps or MTX terminators would be if they bought em lol. the brutal honesty inside me would prob tell everyone that everything theyre looking at sucks and they should look elsewhere if they wanted halfway decent stuff lol



sales takes a special kind of person.


----------



## SkizeR

making some good progress right now. all i really have to do before i get the front back together is find out how im going to mount the voltage regulator and the ecu so it is still accessible.


----------



## SkizeR

kick panels deadened..






after that was done, i got the carpet back in.. seeing the carpet in gave me such a good feeling. seeing that its finally coming together after such a long hiatus was a great feeling




tomorrow the dash goes in!!!!!!


----------



## RandyJ75

Can't wait to see pics of that!!! You'll be driving her before you know it.


----------



## quietfly

coming along nicely!!!


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> coming along nicely!!!


i tried texting you yesterday about the sub.


----------



## SkizeR

dashboard is back in. should have the whole drivers side put together soon as well


----------



## quietfly

pics?


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## SkizeR

i was bored so i started the outline of the dash kit that i will be making to house the p99 and the zapco DRC. finished the drawing, but im not sure what type of material to use. im going to make it a rough cut, then use bondo/duraglass to make it flush on the edged. should i use MDF? (doubt it since some areas are only 5mm wide).. acrylic? ABS?


----------



## JayinMI

I've seen lots of people make dash parts out of MDF and bond them to plastic, but I always feel like that is more likely to show later on. I prefer to use ABS on ABS.

Jay


----------



## quietfly

Get thin Aluminium from homedepot. then glass over it or bond ABS to it...


----------



## SkizeR

todays work.. since the heat and ac are deleted, im using the HVAC pod for power and clipping leds extended from the amps.

sandsandsandsand..





turns out duraglass does stick very well to plastic..




sanded smooth..






primed and marked..




test fit.





then cut out a chunk for the clipping leds, attached a small piece of abs to the back, and covered the front with duraglass and sanded smooth. 








thats it for now. waiting for the final layer of primer to dry, then il be wet sanding it and fitting the LED's and getting it secured to the pod


----------



## SkizeR

its 3 am. i think its time to stop working in the car..


----------



## 94VG30DE

Really cool re-purpose of the HVAC cluster. That is one of the coolest designs in the interior on that car.


----------



## SkizeR

so my xbox decided to overheat at midnight which kinda pissed me off, so instead of try to keep playing, i went downstairs and started making the dash kit to house the P99 and Zapco DRC.


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## SkizeR




----------



## RandyJ75

Looks very nice.


----------



## SkizeR

wrapped in suede..


----------



## peenemunde

Love seeing your updates 

Your car will be epic


----------



## SkizeR

peenemunde said:


> Love seeing your updates
> 
> Your car will be epic


thanks man. i hope so


----------



## Joenaz2003

Man I just read through your whole log. You have some epic **** going on. It looking great. Where are you in NY? I'm on Long Island.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> Man I just read through your whole log. You have some epic **** going on. It looking great. Where are you in NY? I'm on Long Island.


thanks. im in rockland county. right by the palisades mall.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Why does **** like this have to pop up and give me all kinds of ideas for things that I really don't need to do to my truck?

Looking good!


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Why does **** like this have to pop up and give me all kinds of ideas for things that I really don't need to do to my truck?
> 
> Looking good!


do itt! whatever it is just do it


----------



## CK1991

just spent a good while reading through most of this thread....insane is what comes to mind. you've got alot of skill. 


Also, if it has no heat or AC, I guess that means its a 3 season car?


----------



## SkizeR

CK1991 said:


> just spent a good while reading through most of this thread....insane is what comes to mind. you've got alot of skill.
> 
> 
> Also, if it has no heat or AC, I guess that means its a 3 season car?


it will never be driven in the winter so no need for heat. even if i do, i can always bundle up. ac is over rated. i have never used the ac in my daily car. i find rolling the windows down much better. also who needs AC when you have T-Tops!


----------



## thehatedguy

How are you mounting the DRC to the dash kit? It's been a while since I've had a DRC and want to put one below my deck and can't remember if they have screw holes in the sides or not.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> How are you mounting the DRC to the dash kit? It's been a while since I've had a DRC and want to put one below my deck and can't remember if they have screw holes in the sides or not.


theres holes on the sides.


----------



## SkizeR

so i got some new baffles made for the mw182's today. their not pretty, but its the only way theyre going to fit. i still have to cut the door panel and put a little pod over it to increase space. finishing up the pods tonight. pics to come soon.


----------



## sprocketser

That s some great job mate ! Keep it on .


----------



## SkizeR

looks like im actually going to have to go through with modifying the doors :/


----------



## sprocketser

Will look forward to see what you ll do with the doors , very interesting .


----------



## SkizeR

i really dont want to use these pods. anyone have any ideas how i can have the cone not hit the panel? they are pretty much as deep as they can go without hitting the window.


----------



## sprocketser

I bet you ll have to either tilt them toward the seats , but you ll loose some carpet area . Some making in here right !


----------



## Alex84

sub'd


----------



## SkizeR

anyone have any ideas how i can keep the door panel stock? i need about just under a centimeter more clearance


----------



## sprocketser

With these driver sizes it will be tough mate .


----------



## SkizeR

i know. i really really dont want to modify the door panels i bought


----------



## sprocketser

I understand , I would get some that are worn , but more spendings again . It would be easier to mod them big time & keep these OEM clean . Just my 2 cents .


----------



## SkizeR

good news.. i can use the stock door panels without exterior mods. just going to have to really flush mount them into the brackets. also finished my first carbon fiber piece.. my fuel door. (normally i wouldnt do this but it came with the car unpainted, so i thought why not)..

some smudges from my fingers in the first pic..


----------



## sprocketser

Good news as you say !


----------



## SkizeR

also, for the people wondering, the gas door will not stay like that. i just wanted to try my hand at carbon fiber


----------



## sprocketser

SkizeR said:


> also, for the people wondering, the gas door will not stay like that. i just wanted to try my hand at carbon fiber


It s what I was thinking . It looks like a learning curve right !


----------



## quietfly

so how are you making out with all the rain this week?


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> so how are you making out with all the rain this week?


mehh.. when am i getting you this sub? lol


----------



## quietfly

Dude, i'm in San Fran today....i get home (meaning JFK) like 1130 tonight.....


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> Dude, i'm in San Fran today....i get home (meaning JFK) like 1130 tonight.....


what the hell you doin over there?


----------



## quietfly

hookers and blow......uh oh i mean working.......


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> hookers and blow......uh oh i mean working.......


TFTI :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

To anyone who cares to what i have been up to all winter and why this build isnt done, i present to you.. Thunder Cunts: Slippery When Wet!

https://vimeo.com/94779343


----------



## reno.sa

Is the build finished yet? If so any pics?


----------



## SkizeR

reno.sa said:


> Is the build finished yet? If so any pics?


What is this word "finished" you speak of? Lol but no it's far from done.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## teldzc1

Which tweets did you go with? I saw your pillars in the APillar thread. Looks like you have Air Circs and Scan Be's. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

teldzc1 said:


> Which tweets did you go with? I saw your pillars in the APillar thread. Looks like you have Air Circs and Scan Be's.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


Nope. It's 2 pairs of the revelator r2904 but in different colors

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## teldzc1

Got it! Bet they sound awesome. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

teldzc1 said:


> Got it! Bet they sound awesome.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


we'll find out soon enough


----------



## SkizeR

ok, i want some opinions before i move forward. should i leave the midbass's mounted behind the door panels, or build a pod to house them on the door panel? reason im asking is becuase, 1) its going to be very difficult to get the panel to mount right, and 2) will there be any acoustical issues since only half of the speaker isnt blocked by the door panel?

i would much rather have them mounted behind the doors but im not sure how much the door panels covering most of the speaker will effect the sound.




http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/iamskizer/media/_MG_9540_zps7d2ba3f3.jpg.html


----------



## Mike Bober

personally i would leave the speaker mounted to the door, but i would also make a pod that the size of the speaker, because the sound will go behind the door panel and more than likely create all kinds of noise issues and affect the sound.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

anyone else have some input?


----------



## Joenaz2003

Mine look kind of similar to yours. The speaker grill is mounted to a pod like bump out of the panel but it partially covers the speaker and they sound much better with the door panels off. I will eventually have to glass the pods and rework them so they don't block the speaker. If they are hooked up try them with and without the panels and see if you hear a difference.


----------



## SkizeR

thats the problem. i wont have any amps in for a while to test em


----------



## Joenaz2003

i would trim them a bit to be safe. Yours look like they are more covered than mine and I have noticeable difference with the panels off. Like some of the sound is trapped in the panel.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> i would trim them a bit to be safe. Yours look like they are more covered than mine and I have noticeable difference with the panels off. Like some of the sound is trapped in the panel.


as in just cut a hole in my door panel?


----------



## RandyJ75

SkizeR said:


> as in just cut a hole in my door panel?



Thats what I would do. then use or make a grill to cover the speaker.

You can't leave them like that. It WILL affect the sound.

Randy

OK, after looking at it some more, I would cut the hole up to the black cloth material, then cover it with mesh or some sort of screening, and then cover the whole thing with some matching black leather like material like what is on the door panels now. Understand what I mean?


----------



## SkizeR

RandyJ75 said:


> Thats what I would do. then use or make a grill to cover the speaker.
> 
> You can't leave them like that. It WILL affect the sound.
> 
> Randy


my door panel isnt like a normal door panel, otherwise i would


----------



## SkizeR

this is a pic off google..


----------



## RandyJ75

SkizeR said:


> my door panel isnt like a normal door panel, otherwise i would



We will need better pictures to understand this; why won't my idea work?


----------



## SkizeR

RandyJ75 said:


> We will need better pictures to understand this; why won't my idea work?


the door panel isnt flat. the section that is above the speaker grill sticks out about 3 inches further than the section than the lower section. i cant just cut into the middle section and cover it with grill cloth without it looking absolutely ridiculous


----------



## RandyJ75

SkizeR said:


> the door panel isnt flat. the section that is above the speaker grill sticks out about 3 inches further than the section than the lower section. i cant just cut into the middle section and cover it with grill cloth without it looking absolutely ridiculous


Your not understanding my idea; cover the opening w some sort of grill, then cover ALL of the vinyl/leather section w/ new vinyl. Completely stealth. 

It's what Bing would do...


----------



## SkizeR

RandyJ75 said:


> Your not understanding my idea; cover the opening w some sort of grill, then cover ALL of the vinyl/leather section w/ new vinyl. Completely stealth.
> 
> It's what Bing would do...


im still not understanding. is there any cutting of the panel involved?


----------



## cajunner

mid bass frequencies are long enough that you aren't going to affect the sound.

cross below 300 hz, and step into that slope at least 12 db, and you're going to be okay.

if you run the speakers higher the gap between the panel and door will create a cavity resonance that will result in cancellation at various intervals, but only in the mildest sense.

I have complete confidence that you could mount your speaker as it is.

What I would do, as well, is shape a foam insert that completely fills the void between the panel and the door, up to the speaker's surround with a slight horn shaping. The area that is wider, would give a natural oblate spheroidal contour, and this would allow whatever bass energy that would normally be causing turbulence, or cavitation, or plain ol' diffraction, into a focused wavefront that would have even a mild gain applied in the mid bass region.

The material of the spacer should be hard enough to resist deformation and vibration, but pliable so the door panel creates a natural seal to it when in place.

You could shape it out of structural pour foam, 2 lb density.

this would allow you to maintain the stock opening, the stock grill. For competition, you just added "damping" but in essence did much more.


----------



## SkizeR

i sure hope so


----------



## schmiddr2

Yeah, from reading a few threads on this it's not going to effect midbass in clarity but it may reduce output to some level, 1-2 db at most. But with EQ you should be fine.


----------



## SkizeR

schmiddr2 said:


> Yeah, from reading a few threads on this it's not going to effect midbass in clarity but it may reduce output to some level, 1-2 db at most. But with EQ you should be fine.


i hope so.


----------



## SkizeR

got started on the kick panels today...

anyone thinks this needs to be chamfered? it looks like the cone has enough breathing room to not have to do anything.


----------



## SkizeR

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> anyone thinks this needs to be chamfered? it looks like the cone has enough breathing room to not have to do anything.


No chamfer needed; that gap is huge.


----------



## SkizeR

to hungover to work on it today :/


----------



## WaylandC

What's your To-Do List looking like now? At least you're making progress bud. Knock out the small, easy stuff first and treat it like a snowball effect.

It's pretty neat looking back to see how quickly you expected to get this project completed in the beginning.


----------



## SkizeR

WaylandC said:


> What's your To-Do List looking like now? At least you're making progress bud. Knock out the small, easy stuff first and treat it like a snowball effect.
> 
> It's pretty neat looking back to see how quickly you expected to get this project completed in the beginning.


the list is still pretty long. but in the beginning i wasnt going to do as crazy of an install


----------



## peenemunde

SkizeR said:


> the list is still pretty long. but in the beginning i wasnt going to do as crazy of an install


DIY has a way of changing your idea's, doesn't it? 

I started off wanting a simple build myself. Then after a few months of surfing the forums, had already sold off all my original gear and spent nearly 4 times what I had anticipated.... 

I wouldn't have it any other way


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## Joenaz2003

Looking good man. Wish I had space in the foot wells of my car.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> Looking good man. Wish I had space in the foot wells of my car.


if you go back somewhere in this thread you will see that i also didnt have space there. i had to relocated 4 fuse boxes and modules and about 6 wire connectors.


----------



## Joenaz2003

I'd have to relocate my legs as well as my passengers lol. GM in all their infinite wisdom chose the passenger side floor as a good location for the cat hump And the drivers side is just as tight.


----------



## CK1991

those kick panels look great...probably image well too.

I'm with joenazz though...I've got an e brake pedal In my way on the drivers side...although if I moved it, I still wouldn't have much room thanks to my giant feet .


----------



## SkizeR

CK1991 said:


> those kick panels look great...probably image well too.
> 
> I'm with joenazz though...I've got an e brake pedal In my way on the drivers side...although if I moved it, I still wouldn't have much room thanks to my giant feet .


thanks but I scraped most of em and started over. they 're almost done and pretty much look the same but don't get as close to the clutch pedal.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

remind me to never use 3m resin again.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Take three years to harden? I just covered some boat seat frames to protect em, I was worried about the large scale of the project and only having 20 min to work. It was 75 outside and it was finally hard by the 3rd day...


----------



## JayinMI

I don't know if I've ever used 3M, but I've used Evercoat and Bondo brands. They certainly aren't as nice as fresh laminating resin from my local supplier, I've build a few things with it and never had a serious problem. 

Did you try mixing a hot batch and spreading it on top? The heat from the hit batch is usually enough to get the other stuff to kick as well.

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

nope. i know 3m takes a while to cure so i mixed it a little hot. its so thick i had to use a ton of acetone to thin it out to get the fleece to soak it up, otherwise it would just kind sit on top and only wet the surface. then i used about 3 layers of chop matt from us composites over the fleece. when it cured, the chop matt competely separated from the fleece in all 3 major flat spots on my kick panel. i have to go and cut it open and fill the gap with resin tomorrow to bond them together again.


----------



## 94VG30DE

JayinMI said:


> [...]fresh laminating resin from my local supplier, I've build a few things with it and never had a serious problem.


This seems to be the key, and I think the 3M sits on auto part stores shelves for too long. The Evercoat stuff I got from a body-specific outlet seemed to be very fresh.


----------



## captainobvious

I'm a fan of Evercoats products. If it's fresh, it's excellent. I've actually been using the same gallon of Rage Gold for more than a year and it's still soft and workable. The hardener in my experience is the thing that goes south first.

That said, for resin I love US Composites. It gives good work time and kicks easily with the proper amount of hardener, consistently. Also has pretty good shelf life too.

Sorry to hear about the issues Skizer, I hate it when that happens.


----------



## SkizeR

pretty much have the drivers side kick panel done. i was trying to think of ways i could make a grill for it and have been thinking to myself for days "i wonder if morel makes a 4 inch version of the supremo/ultimo grills." as i was finishing it up, i wanted to do a layer of CLD inside the kick to help with resonance. my garage had been a bit re-organized while i was away and i couldnt get to my box of deadener without moving a ton of ****. so i just reached for it in between a bunch of stuff laying on the floor. im finally able to get my arm far enough to where i can grab some deadener. buuuuutttttttttt instead of pulling out deadener, i pulled out a pair of 4" morel ultimo-style grills. i had no idea i even had them, let alone remember getting them. one of the biggest "wtf moments" of my life. they fit literally PERFECT.


----------



## SkizeR

what ya guys think.. carpet, suede, or vinyl..


----------



## schmiddr2

Nice work man. I'd go carpet. Should be easy to match the black and blend in with the car.


----------



## captainobvious

Agreed. Carpet will help them to blend in. Either of the other choices will make them stand out. Depends on what look you want though.


----------



## Joenaz2003

I would go carpet or vinyl that matches the plastic trim around the area so it ties to the door sill panel (not sure if that's what its called) and looks like it was born there.


----------



## 94VG30DE

Carpet. 
Finding those grills felt pretty sweet though I bet. Always nice to have a positive surprise rather than, you know, the _normal _kind of surprise.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Carpet.
> Finding those grills felt pretty sweet though I bet. Always nice to have a positive surprise rather than, you know, the _normal _kind of surprise.


yeah, finding them almost made me think there is some good in this world :laugh:

and carpet it is


----------



## Schizm

Lol when you were telling the story of trying to reach back to get sound deadening stuff I thought the story was gonna be you got bitten by a spider or raccoon or something! Grills are a much better outcome lol

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


----------



## SkizeR

Yeah. Not to mention they fit literally perfect. Just gotta paint them to match the ultimos grills.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

its official. my dreams at having the most bad ass audio install in a 300zx were just shattered into a million pieces.


----------



## capea4

Well damn, 
You got some work to do if you wanna compete with that.
Maybe it sounds like **** and only looks good? Lol


----------



## Joenaz2003

That's pretty friggin awesome


----------



## porscheman

that pic looks shopped to me. has some odd blends in it. the steering wheel looks like it was pasted on, the gaps are off and the drivers are not straight. not what you'd expect on a build that required that much adjustment. and why the hell did they put the a/c controls in the ashtray with no vents?


----------



## SkizeR

porscheman said:


> that pic looks shopped to me. has some odd blends in it. the steering wheel looks like it was pasted on, the gaps are off and the drivers are not straight. not what you'd expect on a build that required that much adjustment. and why the hell did they put the a/c controls in the ashtray with no vents?


there's more than one picture of it though 

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## 94VG30DE

porscheman said:


> that pic looks shopped to me. has some odd blends in it. the steering wheel looks like it was pasted on, the gaps are off and the drivers are not straight. not what you'd expect on a build that required that much adjustment. and why the hell did they put the a/c controls in the ashtray with no vents?


The reason it looks 'shopped is because that dash is Mr. Potato-faced compared to the original dash. The HVAC controls in the ashtray are actually normally on a stalk next to the steering wheel, which looks out of place because the gauge cluster was moved toward the center. The whole thing looks weird to me. Really thorough and cohesive as a "thing", and it looks like they are good at what they do, but I stared at that dash every day for 8 years. I know what it's supposed to look like, and that ain't it. 

*K*eep *I*t *S*imple *S*kizeR


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> The reason it looks 'shopped is because that dash is Mr. Potato-faced compared to the original dash. The HVAC controls in the ashtray are actually normally on a stalk next to the steering wheel, which looks out of place because the gauge cluster was moved toward the center. The whole thing looks weird to me. Really thorough and cohesive as a "thing", and it looks like they are good at what they do, but I stared at that dash every day for 8 years. I know what it's supposed to look like, and that ain't it.
> 
> *K*eep *I*t *S*imple *S*kizeR


obviously everything was relocated.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## porscheman

i know, my ttz is sitting 40 feet from me right now


----------



## 94VG30DE

porscheman said:


> i know, my ttz is sitting 40 feet from me right now


I think this is the "Like" button right? 
:thumbsup:


----------



## SkizeR

so what do you guys think.. stick with the Audioque 2200d, or sell it and get 2 zapco dc 1100.1's to match the rest of the amps?


----------



## Joenaz2003

My OCD side says match them but my Quality side says go with which ever is the better product.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> My OCD side says match them but my Quality side says go with which ever is the better product.


both of which would constitute switching to zapco

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## subwoofery

SkizeR said:


> so what do you guys think.. stick with the Audioque 2200d, or sell it and get 2 zapco dc 1100.1's to match the rest of the amps?


Do you need the DSP? 

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> Do you need the DSP?
> 
> Kelvin


well I have the p99 head unit, but then again having another 10 bands of parametric eq per channel can't hurt.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## subwoofery

Parametric on the subwoofer will take your system to a whole new level  
Sorry if this suggestion will invite you to take some cash out of your pocket lol

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> Parametric on the subwoofer will take your system to a whole new level
> Sorry if this suggestion will invite you to take some cash out of your pocket lol
> 
> Kelvin


well if thats the case, then im in.


----------



## Joenaz2003

May as well go with what will give you the best sound you can afford the first time. I held off for what I wanted and I think it took me a total of 8 months to get all my equipment. A year for the sub and it makes me happy. The waiting process sucked cause I'm like a 5 year old with a new Lego set waiting for my dad to put the decals on.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> May as well go with what will give you the best sound you can afford the first time. I held off for what I wanted and I think it took me a total of 8 months to get all my equipment. A year for the sub and it makes me happy. The waiting process sucked cause I'm like a 5 year old with a new Lego set waiting for my dad to put the decals on.


oh trust me, i know. ive had all my equipment sitting in my room for about 2 years because ive been trying to get everything perfect for what i want


----------



## Craig

Amazing build so far, cannot wait to see this finished! The 300ZX is one of my favorite cars out there.


----------



## SkizeR

now that snowboarding is done and i have a job that actually pays and doesnt take up 15 hours of my day, i can finally get the supplies and the time for the major parts of this build.. amp rack and the rest of the trunk.


2 eight foot sheets of half inch mdf cut into thirds (so it could fit in my car) should be enough for a wall of amps and rear amp "shelf"

also have a big order from US composites coming in.





also finished the drivers side kick panel (just waiting for that us composites order to finish the other)..

and yes, that is a morel grill covering scanspeak mids 
grills were plastidipped black (originally a dark olive color) and are secured to 1/4 inch thick wooden rings that were also dipped black and press fit right in and are going to be secured with small magnets


----------



## REGULARCAB

Big fracken kicks. Lookin good. I dont think you bought enough painters tape though.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Big fracken kicks. Lookin good. I dont think you bought enough painters tape though.


they dont look as big in the car. theyre really recessed into the corner. they are actually kinda small on the inside (only 2.5 liters). they just needed to cover up a good piece of real estate to cover up some bare metal on the firewall that some stock panel covered up

for now its more then enough tape. i still need to order/buy other stuff like fans which brings me to my next question...

im not sure if there are any pics of the back wall behind the seats where i will mount the amps (i'll go back and look and edit them in here if there are), but where the sides of the car has a big 5 inch square opening in the bottom of the b-pillars that vent to the outside (kinda). im going to put in 120mm computer fans on each side to help the amps stay nice and cool. question is, is should i have them set up as a push pull configuration? as in the drivers side fan pulls in air, and the passenger side pushes out the hot air.. or should i have them both pushing fresh air in? or both pushing hot air out?


----------



## REGULARCAB

This is just coming from a computer guy, but I have always found push fans to be useless.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> This is just coming from a computer guy, but I have always found push fans to be useless.


so you think i should have both fans pulling air from the outside? into the amp rack? i just dont want the car to heat up from all the warm air it will be blowing into the cabin (especially with no ac)


----------



## REGULARCAB

I would have all of your fans blowing from the amp rack into the b pillars. Sucking "cold" cabin air into the amp rack and venting it outside the car.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I would have all of your fans blowing from the amp rack into the b pillars. Sucking "cold" cabin air into the amp rack and venting it outside the car.


ahh gotcha. thanks. any recommendations on a fan? i have a ton of space and can maybe fit up to a 160mm on each side.


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> ahh gotcha. thanks. any recommendations on a fan? i have a ton of space and can maybe fit up to a 160mm on each side.


If looks aren't a concern I found Noctua Fans to be bullet proof. Just make sure it is the SSO2 version. You will see if you start looking. Two of those would suck out all the air in you car real fast, and I have found them to be moderately quiet.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> If looks aren't a concern I found Noctua Fans to be bullet proof. Just make sure it is the SSO2 version. You will see if you start looking. Two of those would suck out all the air in you car real fast, and I have found them to be moderately quiet.


Just ordered 2 of their 140mm fans. Should be here tomorrow along with all my other supplies.


----------



## SkizeR

got started on the amp rack today.


rough cut..






test fit.






marking out where all the amps are getting placed.





modified Phoenix Gold fuse block hardly has enough room to be centered on the panel..





general layout..








modified Phoenix Gold fuse block. i took out the agu style fuse holders and put in mini anl fuse holders






wrapped in vinyl that matches the color and texture of the Zapco amps. not sure if i should keep the vinyl on the center window of it or not..


----------



## REGULARCAB

Amps arent symmetrical, time for a system overhall 

Good to see you making some progress.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Amps arent symmetrical, time for a system overhall
> 
> Good to see you making some progress.


thanks lol. from the looks of the panel they arent. but when they are installed and covered by their beauty panel they will be perfectly center on their respective sides minus 3.5 inches to the outside


----------



## SkizeR

and i should have snapped a pic, but the kick panel came out and fits in percfect


----------



## REGULARCAB

Sweet place to put those amps btw, I didnt see it coming, then again I havent been in a zx for like 15 years.


----------



## SkizeR

where else would i fit 6 class ab amps in a 2 seat hatchback? haha


----------



## MAIDEN69

Do you have the RMD remote voltage display for that distribution block? I have two of them. One I had chromed 10+ years ago and uses the glass style like yours did, and a Zeropoint Titanium model that came with the mini anl's. I have the matching RMD but no cable for it. The older one just uses a standard phone cable with RJ11 connectors. The Ti model I want to use in my current install uses the handset phone type connectors. RJ9
I simply can't find one that isn't the curly Q cables. Sucks!


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Do you have the RMD remote voltage display for that distribution block? I have two of them. One I had chromed 10+ years ago and uses the glass style like yours did, and a Zeropoint Titanium model that came with the mini anl's. I have the matching RMD but no cable for it. The older one just uses a standard phone cable with RJ11 connectors. The Ti model I want to use in my current install uses the handset phone type connectors. RJ9
> I simply can't find one that isn't the curly Q cables. Sucks!


i dont have anything else besides whats pictured :/


----------



## SkizeR

been wiring up the wires for the clipping/power/protect indicator LED's. just gotta get some quick connects and they should be ready by tonight. then i have to re-do the actual panel the led's are going to be mounted to. after that its just a waiting game waiting for more 4 gauge wire that i ordered today. once its all wired up im going to glass up some "funnels" for the fans.


----------



## SkizeR

Being watched while wiring..


----------



## quietfly

lol i didn't even know you could see me...


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> lol i didn't even know you could see me...


i literally get to work everyday and realize i forgot to bring the sub -_____-
im the worst


----------



## quietfly

lol no worries. I'm in the process of movin one mile closer to you!!! I actually want to see your system sometime this summer.


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> lol no worries. I'm in the process of movin one mile closer to you!!! I actually want to see your system sometime this summer.


where and when? and hopefully itll be done by then


----------



## quietfly

well i'm in the process of moving now, I just finished redoing the wood floors on the bedroom levels, now i have the rest of the painting to do.....


----------



## SkizeR

quietfly said:


> well i'm in the process of moving now, I just finished redoing the wood floors on the bedroom levels, now i have the rest of the painting to do.....


If you need help let me know.


----------



## SkizeR

finally the amp rack is done...
thanks Bing for the inspiration


----------



## Joenaz2003

Looking good man. Doesn't it feel good when your getting closer.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> Looking good man. Doesn't it feel good when your getting closer.


it certainly does


----------



## SkizeR

Just gotta go pickup a pair of zapco dc 1100.1 and I can start the second amp rack.


----------



## SciPunk

Looking fantastic man, you definitely have way more skill than I sir. 

Subbed!


----------



## SkizeR

SciPunk said:


> Looking fantastic man, you definitely have way more skill than I sir.
> 
> Subbed!


thanks man. means a lot coming from the person with the most unique car on this board. btw i was just looking at your build.. your theme is literally PERFECT to incorporate a Panasonic tube deck. i cant even begin to describe how awesome that would be in your car. in case you havent seen one..


----------



## REGULARCAB

That WOULD look pretty sick in a steampunk build.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> That WOULD look pretty sick in a steampunk build.


there is literally no better build than his to use one in


----------



## SciPunk

While agree 100000000% i simply cannot afford one. Hell people have even tried to get a fund going to get me one...lol.

Mayhaps someday, but for now i have to stick with my slowly dying Kenwood...lol

Also thanks for the car compliment, means a lot.


----------



## SkizeR

2 zapco 1100.1's have been acquired.. anyone have the bass knobs for them?


----------



## SkizeR

Anyone know of a good trickle charger for agm batteries? About to order a third battery and might as well get a charger too.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Check out Papasin's civic


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Check out Papasin's civic


On it..


----------



## SkizeR

ADD kicked in and just ordered a NOCO Genius 6v 12v 1100 mA Wicked Smart Battery Charger G-1100 along with an xs power D6500


----------



## SkizeR

also looking to buy a laptop with the zapco software already loaded and WORKING on it.. figured i would post here before i clog up the classifieds


----------



## Joenaz2003

I just got the CTEK 25000. I haven't tried it yet but it's pretty big. I'm going to end up putting it in the hatch area somewhere cause I don't have any room for it under the hood.


----------



## SkizeR

Just went on an accessory shopping spree and got all battery extras lol


----------



## Joenaz2003

Those extras sure do sneak up on you. Are you going to hook the NOCO up permanently or on an as needed basis?


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> Those extras sure do sneak up on you. Are you going to hook the NOCO up permanently or on an as needed basis?


Probably on a needed basis. I can't possibly think of a place to put it. I have 6 amps 2 subs, 6 speakers, 3 batteries, a big Phoenix gold relay type thing, fuse blocks, and relocated electronics etc. all in a 2 seat car plus I don't see the need of making it permanent


----------



## Joenaz2003

That's a lot of cramming lol. It's coming along real good though. I'm lazy and I know the more I have to bring to the car to do things the less I'll actually do.


----------



## SkizeR

so i should have all the parts i need waiting for me when i get home to pretty much finish this build minus the alternator and fabric.

. XS Power D6500 battery
. XS power aluminum hold down for battery
. pac lc1 gain knob to control volume of both zapco dc1100.1's
. battery charger/maintainer
. various distrobution blocks and fuses
. various connectors for all the wires



now quick question. circuit breaker or fuse for the main power wire run?


----------



## minbari

Fuse


----------



## SkizeR

minbari said:


> Fuse


know of any fuse holders that accept 2/0 gauge?


----------



## SkizeR

also might need to get a few since i might have to do 2 runs of 2/0 guage to the distro block. 3500 watts of class AB power might be to much for a single run of 2/0


----------



## MAIDEN69

Or swap it out for some of the Knukonceptz 4/0 cable that they claim is actually 6/0. They sent me a sample and its huge! Check their fuse holders.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Or swap it out for some of the Knukonceptz 4/0 cable that they claim is actually 6/0. They sent me a sample and its huge! Check their fuse holders.


theres no such thing as 6/0. thats just marketing hype lol. after 4/0 it goes on a different scale. and why spend 8 dollars per foot of their cable when i can get true ofc 4/0 for less than half that. and i did check their fuse holders. they dont have anything simple that is one in, one out with one regular anl fuse


----------



## SkizeR

ughh im literally having a god damn crisis over here. im not sure one run will be enough so if thats the case im going to have to get new battery terminals or more distro blocks. probably going to need more wire either way as the diyma 2/0 gauge wires outer jacket is way to thick and very stiff. can someone confirm if one run will be enough or not? 3500 watts of class ab power. 200 amp alternator. the rear batteries (2 xs power d1200's) will be all the way in the back of the hatch unless i can design something to get them to look right in the sides somewhere (highly doubt this option)

heres the layout if i go with 1 run of 2/0 from the front to the rear.from the front battery to the first distro is about 8-10 feet of wire. then from there to the rear batteries its about 5 feet of wire. i wont need to buyy any other accessiories to do this. i can always just use lugnuts on the batter


----------



## REGULARCAB

0 should get you 2700 watts of class ab or 330amps. 2/0 should be good. This is according to bcae. I would throw it into their applet but my phone hates it.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> 0 should get you 2700 watts of class ab or 330amps. 2/0 should be good. This is according to bcae. I would throw it into their applet but my phone hates it.


according to BCAE1's power design assistant i need more than 4/0 gauge lol


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> according to BCAE1's power design assistant i need more than 4/0 gauge lol


Ain't that a *****! I'm probably just like you and would want to wire for the full capability. But we both know you will never have every amp running full bore at the same time.


----------



## SkizeR

i know i will probably never come close to full capacity but at the same time why shouldnt i wire for full capacity


----------



## SkizeR

i love coming home to presents 

now to take em apart and tap into the clipping, power, and protect LED's.


----------



## MAIDEN69

SkizeR said:


> theres no such thing as 6/0. thats just marketing hype lol. after 4/0 it goes on a different scale. and why spend 8 dollars per foot of their cable when i can get true ofc 4/0 for less than half that. and i did check their fuse holders. they dont have anything simple that is one in, one out with one regular anl fuse


Call it what you will, but their 4/0 makes the 1/0 cable I bought of theirs look like remote wire! Their 1/0 I bought from them is for sure bigger than the other 1/0 I have from old systems. I have Fosgate, Stinger, JL, Phoenix Gold, and Streetwire 1/0 that I compared it to and it is clearly a larger cable. 
I think the point they are making with the 4/0....6/0 is that their cable is a size larger than rated. Their 1/0 says it is more like 2/0. 
Price is the price. I was not wanting to do it but I wanted really flexible cable and they delivered. It was the first time I've ever bought or seen their wire up close. It's incredibly flexible. Almost shocking compared to the other cable I've used and have here. 
I just through the suggestion out there thinking they may have a fuse holder. Wasn't trying to insult you with a product that is priced on the higher side. 
Good luck with your build, you look like you are flying now. 
Any eta when you might fire it up?


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Call it what you will, but their 4/0 makes the 1/0 cable I bought of theirs look like remote wire! Their 1/0 I bought from them is for sure bigger than the other 1/0 I have from old systems. I have Fosgate, Stinger, JL, Phoenix Gold, and Streetwire 1/0 that I compared it to and it is clearly a larger cable.
> I think the point they are making with the 4/0....6/0 is that their cable is a size larger than rated. Their 1/0 says it is more like 2/0.
> Price is the price. I was not wanting to do it but I wanted really flexible cable and they delivered. It was the first time I've ever bought or seen their wire up close. It's incredibly flexible. Almost shocking compared to the other cable I've used and have here.
> I just through the suggestion out there thinking they may have a fuse holder. Wasn't trying to insult you with a product that is priced on the higher side.
> Good luck with your build, you look like you are flying now.
> Any eta when you might fire it up?


if your looking for flexible cable, welding cable will probably beat every car audio brand wire (as far as ive seen). my 2/0 is able to make quarter inch radius 180 degree bends without trying. and eta for firing it up... not sure. should be more than two months before the amps are turned on


----------



## SkizeR

damn they are pretty 








on to the fun stuff..


----------



## Joenaz2003

Very nice man. I know I've read it before but where are you relocating the LEDs to? Dash?


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> Very nice man. I know I've read it before but where are you relocating the LEDs to? Dash?


Since I don't have heat or ac I'm going to repurpose the climate control pod for that.


----------



## SkizeR

this is what it will look like. green being power, yellow being protect, big red ones being output clipping, and the small red ones being input clipping. the two bottom ones are the two channel amps


----------



## captainobvious

No reason you can't use a circuit breaker. I would...and do. It's especially useful for a "killswitch" for the whole system as well which I have used countless times. Just pick up a Stinger SCBM150 and call it a day. You can run whatever gauge you want to it since you'll be using ring terminals for the connections 

And I agree, welding cable rocks. I use the 2/0 "ultraflex" stuff from Weldingsupply.com. That should be perfect for your needs. You shouldn't need any larger runs, especially if your batteries are located in the rear of the vehicle. Then you're talking about a much shorter length of cable and ampacity isn't going to be an issue for you.


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> damn they are pretty
> http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/iamskizer/media/_MG_1531_zps5dedb06f.jpg.html




You'd be a great plastic surgeon. "Hey this chick is really attractive and this is my first time meeting her. Let's immediately cut her open and mess with stuff."


----------



## casey

the welding cable i bought recently mustve been garbage then, it was not flexible at all


----------



## SkizeR

casey said:


> the welding cable i bought recently mustve been garbage then, it was not flexible at all


theres a few kinds. gotta pick out the ones with high strand count


----------



## SkizeR

**** it.. just ordered 30 feet of 4/0 cable so i can sleep at night when worrying about if i have enough wire


----------



## Joenaz2003

SkizeR said:


> this is what it will look like. green being power, yellow being protect, big red ones being output clipping, and the small red ones being input clipping. the two bottom ones are the two channel amps


That's very cool. It will be awesome when your done with it.


----------



## SkizeR

Joenaz2003 said:


> That's very cool. It will be awesome when your done with it.


thanks. i actually have one done but im not satisfied with the outcome. so i got a new one from a friend and am starting over. its just so hard to make everything line up perfect when all your using is a cordless drill and your dealing with increments of half millimeters lol


----------



## SkizeR

Are these ok to use as a fail safe high pass for the tweeters? I have 2 of each and was going to put one of each in line with the tweeters for a 12db slope at around 1khz


----------



## strakele

I use those same exact ones for mine. Seems to work fine. A single capacitor high pass is 6dB/octave though, not 12. With those 47uF, it's around 850Hz.

Though it seems like from what you said you're intending to use 2 caps in series for each tweeter? That won't increase the slope, it will just change the total capacitance. You need an inductor to form a second order high pass. 2 47uF caps in series is 23.5uF, so the crossover point doubles to 1700Hz.


----------



## SkizeR

strakele said:


> I use those same exact ones for mine. Seems to work fine. A single capacitor high pass is 6dB/octave though, not 12.
> 
> Though it seems like from what you said you're intending to use 2 caps in series for each tweeter? That won't increase the slope, it will just change the total capacitance. You need an inductor to form a second order high pass.


Ah damn. Looks like I will have to settle for a 6 db slope. What capacitance do u use?


----------



## strakele

I use same as pictured.. 47uF.


----------



## SkizeR

cool. thanks


----------



## Joenaz2003

SkizeR said:


> thanks. i actually have one done but im not satisfied with the outcome. so i got a new one from a friend and am starting over. its just so hard to make everything line up perfect when all your using is a cordless drill and your dealing with increments of half millimeters lol


I know the feeling. Other than the router for speaker rings all my tools are pretty basic cordless. I did go to harbor freight and picked up a small bench top drill press for $50 to drill out the 1-1/2" wood balls for my tweeters. I've only used it for the pods and the holes for t-nuts on the rings. It's not the best but it's not bad for the price and since I only planned on using it for the pods I wasn't going to break the bank on it.


----------



## SkizeR

so.. for the sub amps, what setup do you guys think would look better. pic stolen off google but i my sub boxes will be similar

red or green


----------



## dgr932

SkizeR said:


> so.. for the sub amps, what setup do you guys think would look better. pic stolen off google but i my sub boxes will be similar
> 
> red or green



I like green more.


----------



## SkizeR

the plus side of going with red is that ill be able to keep my spare tire without effort. i can probably still keep it with the amps in the green, but id have to raise the floor


----------



## 94VG30DE

red; that space is worthless anyway IMHO


----------



## DLO13

94VG30DE said:


> red; that space is worthless anyway IMHO


^^ agreed. Save whatever trunk space you can.


----------



## dgr932

Well at least with green. It gives you an excuse to go motorized. Come on. I know your just looking to have some actuators transforming your trunk like it was a decepticon. :laugh: you could have it open in the center fold into two pieces which separate to the left and right side of the trunk. or it could be hinged at the front of the trunk and could open as one piece opening in the same manner that you lift your rear hatch open. this allows you to still easily access your spare tire and show off your attention to detail wiring as well.

Just depends how far you want to go. It also allows for you to show your abilities when some one is looking for an installer who is capable of over the top installs. I mean you are an installer!


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> ^^ agreed. Save whatever trunk space you can.


i will still have trunk space. the floor will just need to be raised about 2 or 3 inches.


----------



## SkizeR

dgr932 said:


> Well at least with green. It gives you an excuse to go motorized. Come on. I know your just looking to have some actuators transforming your trunk like it was a decepticon. :laugh: you could have it open in the center fold into two pieces which separate to the left and right side of the trunk. or it could be hinged at the front of the trunk and could open as one piece opening in the same manner that you lift your rear hatch open. this allows you to still easily access your spare tire and show off your attention to detail wiring as well.
> 
> Just depends how far you want to go. It also allows for you to show your abilities when some one is looking for an installer who is capable of over the top installs. I mean you are an installer!


i was thinking about motorizing it. just not sure if its really worth the hassle for a small "wow" factor that i will never use


----------



## SkizeR

screw it. green it is


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> i will still have trunk space. the floor will just need to be raised about 2 or 3 inches.


Owning a hatch myself, 2 to 3 inches of depth with the angle of the back window can cause a lot of annoyances. I remember my brother couldnt get a laundry hamper in the back of his supra. :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> Owning a hatch myself, 2 to 3 inches of depth with the angle of the back window can cause a lot of annoyances. I remember my brother couldnt get a laundry hamper in the back of his supra. :laugh:


thats because supras arent meant to carry laundry


----------



## SkizeR

and holy ****.. over 1000 posts in here and its not even making noise yet. i gotta stop slacking


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> and holy ****.. over 1000 posts in here and its not even making noise yet. i gotta stop slacking


lol. All i see is a very large sig.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> lol. All i see is a very large sig.


:mean:


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> :mean:


My build doesn't play either. LOL
Can't figure out where to put my damn amps.


----------



## SkizeR

one more thing.. has anyone ever mounted a battery (or two) right next to your amps? everyone says not to run power wire near signal, let alone a battery next to the amp. im worried i might get some noise


----------



## Joenaz2003

I've seen some SPL installs where they have a bank of batteries just below the amps and a few where they are under the amps. I don't think you will pick up noise from the battery. All my wires, RCAs, speaker wires, power and ground were in a knotted up mess in the t top well of my hatch for almost a year and I didn't have any noise what so ever from it. I believe it happens when the wires are run next to each other over long distances. I could be wrong though, it's just a theory.


----------



## SkizeR

Clipping indicator panel, take two..


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## MAIDEN69

Fingers crossed!!!


----------



## SkizeR

Well tried doing it with a cordless drill again and some of the holes aren't centered, but most are. I'm going to redo the bottom ones, the two signal clipping ones for the two channel amps on the bottom, and a couple others. Just gotta fill em and drill em.


----------



## Schizm

You could possibly build a bit guide that is just a short tube held stable in a stand of some sort just above the piece you're drilling out.

Making the hole in the stand a tube will help keep the bit centered and level but might become a big PitA to get level. But once you got it set up it'd be a matter of aligning the stand over the correct spot and securing them together.

Also Use a hole punch to guide the initial cut of the bit tip to be a tad more precise.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


----------



## REGULARCAB

Hit the holes with a really sharp nail to help keep em centered when you start drilling.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Hit the holes with a really sharp nail to help keep em centered when you start drilling.


Wow.. why did I not think of this..


----------



## Schizm

SkizeR said:


> Wow.. why did I not think of this..


Sometimes looking at a problem locks us into a narrow solution mindset. Great reason to post build threads and get a fresh noggin lol

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


----------



## JayinMI

Or start with a small bit and go up from there. 
The nail idea might chip the body filler or knock out any that is filling a hole.

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> Or start with a small bit and go up from there.
> The nail idea might chip the body filler or knock out any that is filling a hole.
> 
> Jay


That's what I have been doing. Nail idea worked though.


----------



## Beckerson1

JayinMI said:


> Or start with a small bit and go up from there.
> The nail idea might chip the body filler or knock out any that is filling a hole.
> 
> Jay


One doesn't have to hit it. As long as you can make some sort of impression that the drill bit can bit into starting off. 

Plus you can always add more filler


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> Nail idea worked though.


----------



## SkizeR

My man reg cab comin thru with a great (yet so obvious) idea. Looks perfect. Looks a little off in the pic for some reason though


----------



## REGULARCAB

Looks pretty damn good to me!!


----------



## SkizeR

Holy hell does paint show every imperfection.. Looks like I'm not close to done lol


----------



## JayinMI

That's why high build primer is so great! lol
I think SEM makes a high build in a spray can.

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> That's why high build primer is so great! lol
> I think SEM makes a high build in a spray can.
> 
> Jay


i am using a high build paint.


----------



## REGULARCAB

that piece is small enough I would almost grab a really fine belt for my belt sander and just sand it on the flat plate till she is nice and smooth.

EDIT: texture coats are a good thing too. I fu kin hate painting.... period, that and plumbing are the two things I can admit that im just not good at.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> that piece is small enough I would almost grab a really fine belt for my belt sander and just sand it on the flat plate till she is nice and smooth.


i dont have a belt sander. all i have is a palm sander


----------



## JayinMI

Are you using SEM high build or some auto parts store crap like Duplicolor or Rustoleum high build? There's a difference.

I second the (SEM) texture coat. I use it as a high build primer at times. do a few coats 5 minutes or so apart and wait for it to dry and sand it smooth.

Regularcab: Where are the updates you promised us when you went to work? lol /hijack off.

lol

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

ive used sem. its good. the stuff im using is coming out just as good. i just made so many mistakes i couldnt see with all the color changes and small cervices of the piece. i painted some sail panels with the same stuff and they came out like glass and thats without sanding


----------



## REGULARCAB

JayinMI said:


> Regularcab: Where are the updates you promised us when you went to work? lol /hijack off.
> 
> lol
> 
> Jay


Eloquent writing takes time, and frequent DIYMA refresh checks :laugh:


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> ive used sem. its good. the stuff im using is coming out just as good. i just made so many mistakes i couldnt see with all the color changes and small cervices of the piece. i painted some sail panels with the same stuff and they came out like glass and thats without sanding


primer sand primer sand primer... and if you are me continue that cycle endlessly till you say f it its good enough.


----------



## SkizeR

all i have to do is fill in some tiny chips around the holes


----------



## JayinMI

Just a thought: What about using a countersinking bit to shave some of the primer/paint from round the edges?

Jay


----------



## SkizeR

JayinMI said:


> Just a thought: What about using a countersinking bit to shave some of the primer/paint from round the edges?
> 
> Jay


i dont think i have one :/


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> i dont have a belt sander. all i have is a palm sander


FYI, I bought my hand belt sander used from a pawn shop for like $40, and it has easily saved me that much time in work.
like this but much, much older.


----------



## SkizeR

dont worry guys.. it looks good now


----------



## REGULARCAB

pics or it didnt happen


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> pics or it didnt happen


Primers still drying.


----------



## SkizeR

Got this big ass battery in the mail today. I wonder if it will even fit lol. roll of painters tape for reference



Adding a hole for this..


----------



## Joenaz2003

looking good man


----------



## SkizeR

its official.. 800hp engine build has begun


----------



## DLO13

Did you receive your wire supply order yet?


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> Did you receive your wire supply order yet?


yeah. the 4/0 is a bit bigger than the 2/0. carries much more current though and its still flexible as hell


----------



## DLO13

I placed an order a few days ago. They didn't send an update. Is that the norm? And ONLY 800HP?


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> I placed an order a few days ago. They didn't send an update. Is that the norm? And ONLY 800HP?


yeah they dont really send out tracking. and yep, only 800 lol


----------



## DLO13

i guess 800 would be the minimum with the amount weight ur adding with so many amps and batteries.


----------



## SkizeR

yeah, only reason i need that much power is to haul all this equipment around haha


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> yeah, only reason i need that much power is to haul all this equipment around haha


when ur done, maybe you can give my prius a run for its money.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> when ur done, maybe you can give my prius a run for its money.


i might be able to do that on a bicycle lol


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> i might be able to do that on a bicycle lol


BRO - HAVE YOU NOT HEARD ABOUT POWER MODE?











You would be the Jetta...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odwnpFwuwF8


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## SkizeR

finally got one of my dream pieces of equipment. saving it for the next daily driver. might try it in this car though.


----------



## MAIDEN69

Jaw on floor!


----------



## SkizeR

anyone know of any good rust inhubitors? the stock battery tray is literally covered. no way to take it out since its patch welded to the body


----------



## mark620

POR 15 this stuff is no joke. you have to wear a respirator when using.


----------



## SkizeR

pretty expensive but i guess well worth it. were you able to get it locally?


----------



## mark620

My local napa had it I got a pint and paid about $28. It goes a long way.


----------



## SkizeR

mark620 said:


> My local napa had it I got a pint and paid about $28. It goes a long way.


how much were you able to do with a pint? i have some under the car i need to take care of too. also did you have to use a spray gun? or can you paint it on?


----------



## MAIDEN69

You can buy a gallon of Ospho at any Ace hardware for around $20. I've been using it on my hotrod I'm building. A 46' International Harvester K3. I pour it into a squirt bottle. Wire brush loose rust off. Then squirt it down with the Ospho. I had my frame out all winter after treating it. No rust. You are supposed to paint it afterwards but I'm not that far along. I took the entire truck body down to bare metal a couple years ago. Knowing it was gonna sit naked for a few years, I would wet a rag with the ospho and just wipe the sheetmetal to put a thin layer of protection. Still no rust. Por 15 is a known performer but expensive and is a paint. Ospho is just another alternative and is much cheaper. And works. Old timer hotrod guys turned me onto it. 
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

Also, you can wipe it on, brush it on with a chip brush or foam brush, use in a squirt bottle for the hard to reach areas.
Stuff is great.


----------



## SkizeR

thanks. ill check that out


----------



## JayinMI

A friend of mine is building a pro-touring '76 Duster and used Por15 on his floors from firewall to taillights. He needed just over a gallon to do ALL OF IT. A quart would go pretty far. He had good luck using foam brushes. It looks good.

Jay


----------



## mark620

Like they said brush is fine they do not recommend spraying it due to the chemical fumes I guess. I did about a 2x2 area 2 times and used about half of the can. you really want to use it on the rust more than the bare metal because you can used regular primer on that. It worked really good.


----------



## SkizeR

good lord 4/0 gauge cable is heavy. just techflexed 30 feet of it. also installed the xs power battery hold down for the d6500 up front. it took some cutting to get it to fit, but shes in and secured. pics soon


----------



## SkizeR

ordering the new high output alternator tonight. iraggi 200 amp. direct bolt on, unlike the other one.





aint she purty..


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## JayinMI

_THAT_ is some big ass wire! lol


----------



## SkizeR

yeah. bad part is i have to have custom fuse blocks made now


----------



## captainobvious

Why 4/0 ?

This is just for the run from the alt to the rear batteries, right ?


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Why 4/0 ?
> 
> This is just for the run from the alt to the rear batteries, right ?


alt to front battery, front battery to rears, front battery to distro block, and rear battery to distro block. pretty much all the main power and ground wire. and why? because why not?


----------



## MAIDEN69

On the cheap, I drilled out and re-tapped some older distribution blocks I had sitting around. They were 4gauge blocks that I converted to 1/0. I'm sure a ton of the 1/0 blocks out there have enough meat on them and could be bored out for your wire. 
A custom designed and cnc'd block would be sick. You have any connections?


----------



## REGULARCAB

Another cheap option and even easier is using a 1/0 block the accepts ring terminals.

A couple hunks of aluminum a tap set and some nice screws could get you there as well. Btw wtf size main fuse you plan on using?


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> On the cheap, I drilled out and re-tapped some older distribution blocks I had sitting around. They were 4gauge blocks that I converted to 1/0. I'm sure a ton of the 1/0 blocks out there have enough meat on them and could be bored out for your wire.
> A custom designed and cnc'd block would be sick. You have any connections?


4/0 is much bigger than anything on the market could accept. Drilling them out wouldn't work without getting rid of the threads. Also, look up toolmaker metalworks


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Another cheap option and even easier is using a 1/0 block the accepts ring terminals.
> 
> A couple hunks of aluminum a tap set and some nice screws could get you there as well. Btw wtf size main fuse you plan on using?


I did buy some. The ring terminals are to big lmao. And probably 300 per run


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> look up toolmaker metalworks


I would go look up some of their stuff again... But I already have blue balls


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I would go look up some of their stuff again... But I already have blue balls


why do you say that? lol


----------



## REGULARCAB

Just something about being teased by things you can't have is all.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Just something about being teased by things you can't have is all.


If you want it you can have it


----------



## SkizeR

gave her a little bath.






buttt. on to the fun stuff. the second amp rack. going to be in the trunk about the spare tire well with 2 batteries underneath. i am going to re do the positioning and move the distro blocks out of the way and move the amps closer together. i think itll look better that way



lion king bedsheets and nerf guns. whats good *****


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


>


Makes me want to techflex my amprack 

and pull out my Lion King soundtrack :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Makes me want to techflex my amprack
> 
> and pull out my Lion King soundtrack :laugh:


Honestly, techflex is such a pain in the ass.


----------



## JayinMI

It is, but it looks so nice. 

Jay


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> Honestly, techflex is such a pain in the ass.


Yep. Especially when using a size that fits tightly. I stoped using it in my build because it took too much of my valuable time.


----------



## MAIDEN69

The "toolmaker metalworkz" has some cool products, thanks for the tip. I see they have a 4/0 fuse holder. Is that what you are gonna grab?


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> Yep. Especially when using a size that fits tightly. I stoped using it in my build because it took too much of my valuable time.


it took me an hour to do 30 feet of the power wire with techflex that didnt even fit very tightly.


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> it took me an hour to do 30 feet of the power wire with techflex that didnt even fit very tightly.


Haha. My finger tips got rubbed raw after doing like 20 feet of speaker wire. I had 80 to go and may have yelled like a girl and called it quits. It's something that needs to be done in front of the tv


----------



## MAIDEN69

Where are you guys buying your techflex? And what size fits what? I have 8, 4, and 1/0 I need to cover. What about the heat shrink for the ends, anyone have glossy shrink tube? The dull matte stuff available everywhere doesn't look as highend. 
I want to take care of my engine compartment and do the Big 4. Will regular techflex handle engine compartment heat or do I need to order a heat specific techflex?


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> it took me an hour to do 30 feet of the power wire with techflex that didnt even fit very tightly.


Really?? What's your procedure? It's fairly easy to do if you do it the right way.


----------



## captainobvious

MAIDEN69 said:


> Where are you guys buying your techflex? And what size fits what? I have 8, 4, and 1/0 I need to cover. What about the heat shrink for the ends, anyone have glossy shrink tube? The dull matte stuff available everywhere doesn't look as highend.
> I want to take care of my engine compartment and do the Big 4. Will regular techflex handle engine compartment heat or do I need to order a heat specific techflex?



You can get your techflex from ebay user furryletters. That's where I always get mine. Same with heatshrink, although his selection of heatshrink is limited. His auctions show the size of the techflex at rest and how far it can expand. For typical speaker wire, the 1/4" stuff gives a tighter fit and 3/8" is more relaxed. 1/2" is great for power wire. Its a relaxed fit on 4awg and tighter on 1/0. 

Heatshrink is typically either 2:1 or 3:1 shrink ratio.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Where are you guys buying your techflex? And what size fits what? I have 8, 4, and 1/0 I need to cover. What about the heat shrink for the ends, anyone have glossy shrink tube? The dull matte stuff available everywhere doesn't look as highend.
> I want to take care of my engine compartment and do the Big 4. Will regular techflex handle engine compartment heat or do I need to order a heat specific techflex?


wirecare.com

they have glossy shrink tube. for 4 gauge and 8 gauge i use 3/8ths techflex. for 0 i would use 1/2 inch or 5/8ths. for heatshrink, just get the same size and squeeze it over, or get the next size up


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Really?? What's your procedure? It's fairly easy to do if you do it the right way.


well it takes a bit longer when the wire itself is heavier than you are :laugh:


----------



## MAIDEN69

Your car will be lower than it is now! My Vette is, no question, lower since adding all the Second Skin Damplifier pro & Luxury Liner Pro. A friend at work just asked me if I lowered it again. lol I'm figuring that once the amps and subs are in, I'm gonna need to adjust my coilovers and get a new alignment and corner balance.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Your car will be lower than it is now! My Vette is, no question, lower since adding all the Second Skin Damplifier pro & Luxury Liner Pro. A friend at work just asked me if I lowered it again. lol I'm figuring that once the amps and subs are in, I'm gonna need to adjust my coilovers and get a new alignment and corner balance.


i actually raised the car 2 days ago. but i have nothing to worry about since i have fully adjustable coilovers


----------



## JayinMI

I second using Furryletters on eBay for my Techflex. Great service, refunds any excess shipping, and ships fast. I usually get my heat shrink from Parts Express, but recently found Wirecare, so I may give them a shot next time.
I prefer getting 3:1 and getting it oversize enough that it will just slide on.


Jay


----------



## SkizeR

Finally.. Instead of taking stuff out, everything is finally going in. Rear batteries just put in. Both amp racks next, then gotta make beauty panels. Ordering suede and vinyl tonight. Just got my compressor to so no more using a brush to do upholstery.


----------



## SkizeR

test fitted the sub amps earlier after i re positioned and wired them on the rack..

excuse the mess









these are the areas im left with to put the subs




trying to think of something creative for them


----------



## SkizeR

i have a few ideas so far. one would to be make a very shallow box and make it even with the amp rack so that the whole trunk is flat and theres one beauty panel for the whole trunk and flat part behind the seats. 

orr..

make the outer most part of the box flush with the top of the trunk, and have the face of the box slope down and eventually level out with the amp rack. kinda hard to explain. not a huge fan of either idea yet. just brainstorming


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> The "toolmaker metalworkz" has some cool products, thanks for the tip. I see they have a 4/0 fuse holder. Is that what you are gonna grab?


sorry i didnt answer. i didnt even see this. he actually sells some basic stuff online, but he mostly does custom pieces. i emailed him asking him if he can make a fused distro block that has 2 4/0 gauge in, with 2 4/0 gauge out, with a couple 8 gauge connected to the input side to use for accessories and the cars fuse blocks


----------



## SkizeR

Been doing some upholstery the past few hours. 're doing trim pieces in suede.


----------



## SkizeR

to anyone reading this.. invest in weldwood dap landau adhesive and an hlpv sprayer if you plan on wrapping anything. WELL worth it over the canned crap


----------



## REGULARCAB

Ill take that advice once you post some pics of that suede...


----------



## SkizeR

il post some tomorrow. pics in a dark garage wont really do much lol


----------



## SkizeR

uploading some pics now. in the mean time, has anyone used aluminum baffles? thinking about replacing this hdpe with aluminum for a couple reasons. 1) i cant have a very thick baffle or else the driver will hit the door panel 2) because of that, i have to use thin hdpe which isnt very stiff.


----------



## SkizeR

uploading some pics now. in the mean time, has anyone used aluminum baffles? thinking about replacing this hdpe with aluminum for a couple reasons. 1) i cant have a very thick baffle or else the driver will hit the door panel 2) because of that, i have to use thin hdpe which isnt very stiff.


----------



## SkizeR

parts from yesterday..






wrapping the door panel.. started by ripping the factory tweed off aand taping off the areas i dont want hit with glue.









really gotta get some glue in there..





while the glue is drying, eat a popsicle stick and swipe right 





all done.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Looking good man. I think it was thedavel that used aluminum baffles last i saw. Some decently thick aluminum would probably work pretty well, and if you HAD to, I know you can cut some pretty thick stuff with a metal blade in a jigsaw. You can get a router to work as well.


----------



## REGULARCAB

bro, delete this **** :worried: lets not forget that this thread has been viewed 75000 times.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> bro, delete this **** or fix your door locks :worried: lets not forget that this thread has been viewed 75000 times.


good idea.. now you just gotta delete the quote lol


----------



## REGULARCAB

done


----------



## MAIDEN69

I've been really thinking about redoing my door panels. C5 Vettes are notorious for the door panel vinyl delaminating. The vinyl shrinks and it pulls off the panel. Mine are getting bad. Just not 100% confident on how they would turn out.
I love suede and would to do parts of my interior in it. Does it stretch at all? 
And when you wrap around edges, are you stapling it down like the factory usually does or just let the glue do its thing?


----------



## MAIDEN69

Damn, hope nobody knows where you live!!! I'm sure you will have them fixed and have an added security system in no time.


----------



## 94VG30DE

If you're worried about stiffness of thin HDPE, rather than Al, I would use HDPE ribs on the back of the existing HDPE baffle, as deep as you can make them (think speaker-magnet-depth). Ribs are just as strong, if not stronger, than thicker material. And CERTAINLY cheaper than thick Al plate.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> I've been really thinking about redoing my door panels. C5 Vettes are notorious for the door panel vinyl delaminating. The vinyl shrinks and it pulls off the panel. Mine are getting bad. Just not 100% confident on how they would turn out.
> I love suede and would to do parts of my interior in it. Does it stretch at all?
> And when you wrap around edges, are you stapling it down like the factory usually does or just let the glue do its thing?


Does it stretch? Not really. Just enough to work with basic contours. And I'm not using any staples. Just the adhesive and some .ca glue in trouble areas


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> If you're worried about stiffness of thin HDPE, rather than Al, I would use HDPE ribs on the back of the existing HDPE baffle, as deep as you can make them (think speaker-magnet-depth). Ribs are just as strong, if not stronger, than thicker material. And CERTAINLY cheaper than thick Al plate.


No room for anything extra. With half inch hdpe it'll hit under any decent amount of excursion. Gotta use quarter inch something


----------



## strakele

1/4 inch aluminum works very well.

Here's a pair I made for my girlfriend's car (pictured in my car):










1/4" baffle with 1/4" countersink ring.


----------



## SkizeR

strakele said:


> 1/4 inch aluminum works just fine.
> 
> Here's a pair I made for my girlfriend's car (pictured in my car):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1/4" baffle with 1/4" countersink ring.


wow. very nice. how easy is it to cut with a jigsaw?


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> wow. very nice. how easy is it to cut with a jigsaw?


The aluminum I have cut I would call doable, not easy.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> The aluminum I have cut I would call doable, not easy.


might as well have it machined by a shop then so its perfect


----------



## strakele

SkizeR said:


> wow. very nice. how easy is it to cut with a jigsaw?


It was very easy to cut with a Haas CNC machine 

You'd need a pretty serious jig/blade, a steady hand, and a good bit of time to cut aluminum like that and make it look decent.

I drew out 8 rings in CAD to the desired dimensions with holes for screws. Cut with the machine. Tapped the screw holes and bolted each 2-piece ring together. Turned, smoothed, and polished on a lathe so there were no sharp edges and so the gap between the 2 rings basically disappeared. They came out really nice.

Not the kinda thing the average person has access to, but the main point was that a 1/4" aluminum baffle is very stiff and would work fine for your purposes.


----------



## 94VG30DE

no no no, HDPE ribs _behind _the baffle, on the door inner side. I know you have the space because the OEM Bose enclosure is almost 2" deep and takes up that entire space.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> no no no, HDPE ribs _behind _the baffle, on the door inner side. I know you have the space because the OEM Bose enclosure is almost 2" deep and takes up that entire space.


The mw182 is ten inches around and 2.5 inches deep. There's almost no area to put rips on. Plus, professionally machined aluminum?


----------



## REGULARCAB

Check out robolop's "badass bmw 330" thread. Routing aluminum like a boss using a router and wd40.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Check out robolop's "badass bmw 330" thread. Routing aluminum like a boss using a router and wd40.


Yeah but I don't have a good enough router or bits and a jig.


----------



## SkizeR

off to finish the second kick panel. once thats done i can button up the front half of the car


----------



## SkizeR

turns out the locks are fine, they just open after you shut the door if you engage the lock while the door is open. gotta just do it by key after the doors are closed. weird

edit: found out 90-93 models you have to lift the handle as you close the door for it to stay locked... who the **** thinks of this ****?


----------



## MAIDEN69

It will keep you from ever locking the keys in the car.


----------



## JoshHefnerX

If the door locks unlock while closing the door, try locking the door and shutting the door with the handle open. (lift the handle while shutting) 

When you going to put some music out of this thing!. How many years, and 1150 posts!


----------



## SkizeR

JoshHefnerX said:


> If the door locks unlock while closing the door, try locking the door and shutting the door with the handle open. (lift the handle while shutting)
> 
> When you going to put some music out of this thing!. How many years, and 1150 posts!


turns out that was it. and hey.. i didnt get to work on it from june-march between work and snowboarding. honestly, i can have it play music by tomorrow if i wanted. all i REALLY need for it to play 100% is the sub boxes which i am still undecided about (completely flat trunk, or sloped on the sides), finish installing the midbass's (which im ditching the hdpe, and going with an aluminum baffle, so i need to find a place to get that done), install the head unit, and run the signal cables


----------



## JoshHefnerX

Glad that worked for you. I'm getting old but seem to remember that about some cars door locks.

As far as getting the music playing, just yanking your chain! I've spent 6 months working on the same damn fiberglass door pod....

Don't remember what you were going to use for subs.

Josh


----------



## SkizeR

JoshHefnerX said:


> Glad that worked for you. I'm getting old but seem to remember that about some cars door locks.
> 
> As far as getting the music playing, just yanking your chain! I've spent 6 months working on the same damn fiberglass door pod....
> 
> Don't remember what you were going to use for subs.
> 
> Josh


yeah, its kinda awkward holding the handle up while shutting the door.

and for subs im using the morel ultimos. one on each side of the trunk. im not sure if i want my trunk completely flat, or have the enclosures slope in towards the amp rack in the center of the trunk


----------



## SkizeR

if i sloped them they would be very similar to this, then the amp rack even with it in the middle..


----------



## REGULARCAB

I like sloped myself.


----------



## SkizeR

not sure how i would finish them.. vinyl, suede. or even carbon fiber?


----------



## REGULARCAB

I would do suede and throw in a fiberglass trim panel around both subs connecting all the way across. Something like that.

Of course those are the types of things I want to do to my own vehicle that never really seem to happen. :laugh:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I would do suede and throw in a fiberglass trim panel around both subs connecting all the way across. Something like that.
> 
> Of course those are the types of things I want to do to my own vehicle that never really seem to happen. :laugh:


there is going to be a connecting trim panel on the rear most part of the car. with my absolutely stellar microsoft paint skills, you can see exactly what im doing. red outline is the sub boxes, green outline is the trim panel for the amps. the shaded in green spot will be a trim piece for the back part that is attatched to the amps trim panel and visually connects the sub boxes


----------



## SkizeR

shot from today.. photobucket changes the color for some reason :/


----------



## MAIDEN69

Looks killer. And the sloped subs for sure. Adding those angles pleases the eyes. Think it would look boring if it was all flat unless you used contrasting materials to break it all up.

On another note, do you have any experience with the Sundown SD-2 eights? Thought maybe the shop you work at might sell them and you have had a chance to use them in installs. I'm down to the point of my install where I need to buy my subs. It's either the 10" Diamond Audio MacDaddy subs I already have or a pair of 8's. I'm leaning towards the 8" Sundown SD-2s. Not sure if there is a better 8" out there that isn't twice the price.


----------



## SkizeR

I've used the sd2 subs. They are awesome for what they are. Right now I have them in my friends car. Definitely my go to sub when space is a concern


----------



## MAIDEN69

What about as a SQ sub? The main reason I want to go with a pair of 8's. I know you are going with the Morels. My budget won't allow any exotics like that. 
Not sure I keep asking as I think my mind is already made up. lol Better just order them and roll with it!


----------



## SkizeR

They sound great. Go for it. Or if u can wait, wait for the sd3 line


----------



## MAIDEN69

SkizeR said:


> They sound great. Go for it. Or if u can wait, wait for the sd3 line


Damned you for saying that!!!!! That's what I'm trying to convince myself not to do. They are a ways off from what the SD-3 series thread is indicating. I can always upgrade these later if I feel the need. Thanks for the input.


----------



## SkizeR

then go for the sd-2


----------



## jnchantler

SkizeR said:


>


Holy mutha Russia, look at those! I'm trying to control resonance with just the 7". How do you like those 10's? I'm seriously considering them....


----------



## SkizeR

jnchantler said:


> Holy mutha Russia, look at those! I'm trying to control resonance with just the 7". How do you like those 10's? I'm seriously considering them....


how do i like em? no idea. havent heard em yet. hopefully soon


----------



## jnchantler

SkizeR said:


> how do i like em? no idea. havent heard em yet. hopefully soon


Oh, probably should have read a little more first. Well I guess I'm subscribed now so I'll know when you get them going.


----------



## SkizeR

jnchantler said:


> Oh, probably should have read a little more first. Well I guess I'm subscribed now so I'll know when you get them going.


lol so far theyre a pain in the ass cause theyre so damn big. gotta get new baffles made out of aluminum so theyre thin enough to clear the door card under a good amount of excursion.. i bet they will sound fantastic though


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

Man, I have to say you need major props for this. Being a Nissan brother, and knowing what this car is about I have to say that you are officially a bad ass. I love me some Z32's but holy crap I could never own one because they are such a pain in the ass to work on(motor wise). 

I actually have an 400 HP RB25DET powered S14 240sx myself and I am seriously thinking about putting a good SQ system in it just to jam out to while driving the car around. I wanted to race it but the more and more I build it the more and more I want it to stay in nice shape lol.



















Here is a few pics for you to check out. Great build man I just went through all your pages since day 1 and I hope to see it all finished up real soon.


----------



## SkizeR

dont race it. its in to good of condition to do that to it. it looks beautiful my man. but the motor is the only place theyre a ***** to work on. the whole damn car is 20 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag. no room for anything. not even sure how its possible im fitting in all of this equipment. i mean come on.. 6 amps, 2 subs, and a 3 way front stage with 10 inch midbass's in a 2 seat car. thats gotta be some sort of record lol


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

SkizeR said:


> dont race it. its in to good of condition to do that to it. it looks beautiful my man. but the motor is the only place theyre a ***** to work on. the whole damn car is 20 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag. no room for anything. not even sure how its possible im fitting in all of this equipment. i mean come on.. 6 amps, 2 subs, and a 3 way front stage with 10 inch midbass's in a 2 seat car. thats gotta be some sort of record lol


Ya I don't even think I would do that much in my car and I have a back seat lol. I don't know if I don't use this thing the 3 grand in suspension kind of goes to waste but man it would be a fun street car lol


----------



## SkizeR

ChrisBrinkley said:


> Ya I don't even think I would do that much in my car and I have a back seat lol. I don't know if I don't use this thing the 3 grand in suspension kind of goes to waste but man it would be a fun street car lol


what kind of suspension?


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

SkizeR said:


> what kind of suspension?


Ground Control/Koni Complete Coilover kit with GC Caster/Camber Plates, SPL Tension Arm, SPL Rear Upper control arm, SPL Toe Arm, SPL Traction arm, whiteline sway bars from and rear with adjustable links. and bushings here and there that had to be replaced.


----------



## SkizeR

thats a lot of stuff. im gunna need all that very soon


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

SkizeR said:


> thats a lot of stuff. im gunna need all that very soon


SPL isn't the cheapest option out there in the world but they are top notch quality and the owner of the company started and still races a Z32 so you should check them out.


----------



## SkizeR

ChrisBrinkley said:


> SPL isn't the cheapest option out there in the world but they are top notch quality and the owner of the company started and still races a Z32 so you should check them out.


i know about them. them and powertrix are the best for the money for nissan


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

SkizeR said:


> i know about them. them and powertrix are the best for the money for nissan


Never heard of them but I will take a look at them, I wonder if they work on the S chassis stuff?


----------



## SkizeR

ChrisBrinkley said:


> Never heard of them but I will take a look at them, I wonder if they work on the S chassis stuff?


of coarse they do

https://www.powertrix.com/


----------



## ChrisBrinkley

SkizeR said:


> of coarse they do
> 
> https://www.powertrix.com/


Thank you so much for the link, I appreciate the information! Well I will stop talking car stuff in your audio thread. Again really looking forward to upcoming things happening in the future. 

I think I am going to go pass out now lol


----------



## SkizeR

new alt's paint job. should be here within the week. once its installed it doesnt need to sit in the drive way. i can actually register it. thats good because i just got rid of my daily driver..


----------



## 94VG30DE

Just make sure the PS pump doesn't seep and drip down onto the alternator, thereby frying the voltage regulator and leaving you stranded on a random off-ramp on northern I-55, because then you would have to push the car up the hill and then down the back side of the hill and into the nearest bar parking lot. Ask me how I know 

After the second alternator did the same thing, I built a splash shield to go between the alt and the PS pump. No more problems.


----------



## SkizeR

94VG30DE said:


> Just make sure the PS pump doesn't seep and drip down onto the alternator, thereby frying the voltage regulator and leaving you stranded on a random off-ramp on northern I-55, because then you would have to push the car up the hill and then down the back side of the hill and into the nearest bar parking lot. Ask me how I know
> 
> After the second alternator did the same thing, I built a splash shield to go between the alt and the PS pump. No more problems.


i have read about this. tust me, im going to make sure this wont happen


----------



## SkizeR

also got some work done.. started sub boxes and beauty panels for the amp rack..

sorry for the ****ty phone pics








glass time..


----------



## REGULARCAB

I was wondering when you where going to get that thing running.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I was wondering when you where going to get that thing running.


its always ran. just no alternator.


----------



## MAIDEN69

How's the build coming? Curious how you decided to configure the subs and amp rack. I'm trying to decide how I aim/position my subs in the corners of my hatch area as well.
Looking forward to see how yours turns out.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> How's the build coming? Curious how you decided to configure the subs and amp rack. I'm trying to decide how I aim/position my subs in the corners of my hatch area as well.
> Looking forward to see how yours turns out.


its moving a little slow right now. working on getting it running 100% since i sold my daily. also been working on a few fiberglass boxes for friends with the same car.

and the hatch area will be like this..


----------



## DLO13

what type of phone do you have? those phone pics are pitiful 
I am going to guess that money went towards the build. LOL


----------



## REGULARCAB

I'm guessing it was extremely bright out. Not many phones can handle that.

Btw that was a nice clean lay up on that sub box. I like it.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> what type of phone do you have? those phone pics are pitiful
> I am going to guess that money went towards the build. LOL


htc one m8. pretty crappy camera compared to other phones in its category, but it also turned out i had smeared body filler on the screen and camera of my phone lol




REGULARCAB said:


> I'm guessing it was extremely bright out. Not many phones can handle that.
> 
> Btw that was a nice clean lay up on that sub box. I like it.


yeah it does have trouble with sunlight and shade in the same pic. but its a phone camera.. it can only do so much

and yeah, to bad its a box for my friend lol


----------



## MAIDEN69

So yours will be similar? Looks nice. Elegant actually.


----------



## SkizeR

is it me or is this not safe...


----------



## 94VG30DE

lol, not safe. That will absolutely short, especially with the over-sized ring terminal. 
My guess is that if you get the correct M6/M8 ring terminal (I can't quite tell which one from here) that fits the stud exactly, you should be good to go.


----------



## SkizeR

i got that all figured out.


----------



## SkizeR

now my problem is installing it. been at it for a couple hours and hardly made any progress. no room for error down under that car. ****ing nightmare


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> now my problem is installing it. been at it for a couple hours and hardly made any progress. no room for error down under that car. ****ing nightmare


Yeah that sucks. If you can figure out a way to "fix" that loose nut to the alternator before putting it in, that might help a little bit. Having to line that and the bolt up with so little space to work is a real bear.


----------



## SkizeR

started installing the head unit and getting all the signal cables ran today. once i get some baffles for the midbass's made i should be able to have a playing front stage


----------



## SkizeR

little dirty, and doesnt look that good in the pic :/


----------



## SkizeR

head unit is going in tomorrow. 
should have all the signal cables installed and everything ready to go.
also going to figure out which midbass im going to use. either the jl zr800 or the dyn mw182. whichever one i use, the other will be for sale.

just gotta get some aluminum baffles made


----------



## REGULARCAB

Much better pic. That looks good!


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Much better pic. That looks good!


thanks. either way i think i want to re-do it. a friend of mine has a 3d printer so i might just have him print me a perfect piece to hold the p99 and zapco drc and then just duraglass the sides to sit flush


----------



## REGULARCAB

Just gotta make sure that suede is all brushed in one direction before you show off your car


----------



## REGULARCAB

Does that p99 sit any further back? Or does it need to be out that far for the removable faceplate?


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Does that p99 sit any further back? Or does it need to be out that far for the removable faceplate?


kinda has to since im using the cage for support. i might try to get rid of the cage and recess it more tomorrow


----------



## REGULARCAB

Might look pretty sick if you could flush that p99 a bit then cover that whole piece in suede. Would be a ***** around the vents but "doable". Not positive how it would look in the car though.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Might look pretty sick if you could flush that p99 a bit then cover that whole piece in suede. Would be a ***** around the vents but "doable". Not positive how it would look in the car though.


that would be pretty tough to do. good idea though


----------



## SkizeR

speaking of the 3d printing...


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> speaking of the 3d printing...


Oh my gudness


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> head unit is going in tomorrow.
> should have all the signal cables installed and everything ready to go.
> also going to figure out which midbass im going to use. either the jl zr800 or the dyn mw182. whichever one i use, the other will be for sale.
> 
> just gotta get some aluminum baffles made



Might be too late, BUT....

I would consider putting the DSP controller on top and move it up a little closer to the top of the piece, then flush mount each piece. It would look even cleaner. 



Something like this, but controller over the P99


----------



## REGULARCAB

In other words SkizeR... Everyone thinks what you did looks like complete **** and you need to redo it


----------



## REGULARCAB

But in all seriousness a couple of those Zs under the vinyl in the trunk would look pretty sweet.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> But in all seriousness a couple of those Zs under the vinyl in the truck would look pretty sweet.


Way ahead of you


----------



## REGULARCAB

I figured that's what was going on because why WOULDNT you. I always wanted some Chevy emblems in the Silverado. Think I'll pass on the Kia emblems tho lol.


----------



## SkizeR

Gotta love rain on your day off...


----------



## SkizeR

about to install the head unit.. wish me luck


----------



## Coppertone

Sent you a pm...


----------



## SkizeR

Little dilema.. i changed my mind and now want to run my jl zr 800's but they are just slightly to deep. in order to do that i will have to modify the door panel. lot of work and i prefer the stock look, but what do you guys think. both are bad ass midbass's but the dyns are more like a sub if anything.


----------



## SkizeR

wooooo!!


----------



## 94VG30DE

SkizeR said:


> Little dilema.. i changed my mind and now want to run my jl zr 800's but they are just slightly to deep. in order to do that i will have to modify the door panel. lot of work and i prefer the stock look, but what do you guys think. both are bad ass midbass's but the dyns are more like a sub if anything.


You are already set up to run the dyn's right? Why not just run them, and if you really don't like the sound, _then_ do all the work to use the jl


----------



## captainobvious

Well if you don't end up running the MW182's, let me know as I might find a home for them 

Ive used the ZR800's and they get it done for midbass. I think you'd be very happy with either though.


----------



## SkizeR

Gunna just run the dyns and make life easy


----------



## SkizeR

Anyone here have a hook up on aluminum plate?


----------



## SkizeR

Or should I make carbon fiber baffles..


----------



## SkizeR

so i pretty much have the front stage ready to go. just have to get these baffles made and figure out how to put the zapco software on a windows 8 laptop.


----------



## Datsubishi

Just read through your whole thread during my ass time at work. Impressive from design to execution. Awesome list of equipment too. Glanced at it here and there before, don't know why I didn't sub being a Nissan guy myself and always having loved those cars. I'm sure it will sound killer. 

What did you end up doing with the lug for your alternator? 

All I want to do is go work on one of the cars now. Damn only having 3 waking hours at home daily and house stuff that has to get done on my Sundays before winter rolls around.


----------



## SkizeR

Datsubishi said:


> Just read through your whole thread during my ass time at work. Impressive from design to execution. Awesome list of equipment too. Glanced at it here and there before, don't know why I didn't sub being a Nissan guy myself and always having loved those cars. I'm sure it will sound killer.
> 
> What did you end up doing with the lug for your alternator?
> 
> All I want to do is go work on one of the cars now. Damn only having 3 waking hours at home daily and house stuff that has to get done on my Sundays before winter rolls around.


thanks!

i actually removed the metal bracket and wrapped it with 2 layers of heavy duty shrink wrap. also mounted the lug a different way so it was further away from it.


----------



## SkizeR

Last night I was glassing up my passenger side box and was thinking about making them aperiodic. The morels are very good for that on paper. What do u guys think.


----------



## SkizeR

does anyone know if the zapco dc mono amps sum the signal? i have 2 amps that i need to send signal to from one set of pre-outs and dont have any Y adapters.


----------



## Datsubishi

I've wanted to experiment with aperiodic, and you should be able to tailor it to each speaker or specific passband you are looking to utilize... Might have to spend A LOT of time experimenting with different filter membranes and thicknesses and pink noise to get what you want though. Could always just go sealed from there if it didn't work out. 

In short, GO FOR IT!


----------



## SkizeR

nutserts are just amazing...






press fit morel grill over the scan mids.


----------



## REGULARCAB

Sexy little Morel grills


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Sexy little Morel grills


and durable as hell too. cant risk having a cone made out of what seems like construction paper unprotected in the kicks of my car.


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> and durable as hell too. cant risk having a cone made out of what seems like construction paper unprotected in the kicks of my car.


I totally agree. Everytime I think about doing kicks in my car I wait until my 12 year old daughter gets in and pretty much beats the **** out of every possible thing she can find in my car. Then i'm all like.... nope, not without some big ass grills.

Kind of the same reason I haven't done anything flashy in the trunk yet.... kids


----------



## JayinMI

REGULARCAB said:


> Everytime I think about doing kicks in my car I wait until my 12 year old daughter gets in and pretty much beats the **** out of every possible thing she can find in my car.


This is why I don't want kids. 

Jay


----------



## REGULARCAB

JayinMI said:


> This is why I don't want kids.
> 
> Jay


I was the same way and then I met my wife and pretty much from day one I was like "hey you need to have my baby"


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I was the same way and then I met my wife and pretty much from day one I was like "hey you need to have my baby"


wow this is weird. im going thru this same situation with my girlfriend right now except its the other way around. we actually argued about it today lol


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I totally agree. Everytime I think about doing kicks in my car I wait until my 12 year old daughter gets in and pretty much beats the **** out of every possible thing she can find in my car. Then i'm all like.... nope, not without some big ass grills.
> 
> Kind of the same reason I haven't done anything flashy in the trunk yet.... kids


but seriously.. have you ever seen these speakers in person? im convinced that i will be ordering a few recones from madisound within the first year or two of driving around with them. they are literally more fragile than printer paper. pretty much paper fiber loosely pressed together. when i bought them of IStundra, he gave me a third one for free because the cone was ruined. i used that to kinda test what it can hold up to. it soaks up water like a sponge and falls apart like nothing. nothing i can do since they werent designed to be in a car. oh well


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> wow this is weird. im going thru this same situation with my girlfriend right now except its the other way around. we actually argued about it today lol


There are many things that just can't be explained to someone until you actually have a child. I thought I knew... I didn't. What I can say is if you aren't ready to pour your heart soul blood sweat tears time patience life into a kid, don't have one. Also don't have one just to make someone else happy.

I absolutely love having children, but the more selfish early 20's me... would have folded like a paper ****ing bag.

/end drphil


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> but seriously.. have you ever seen these speakers in person? im convinced that i will be ordering a few recones from madisound within the first year or two of driving around with them. they are literally more fragile than printer paper. pretty much paper fiber loosely pressed together. when i bought them of IStundra, he gave me a third one for free because the cone was ruined. i used that to kinda test what it can hold up to. it soaks up water like a sponge and falls apart like nothing. nothing i can do since they werent designed to be in a car. oh well


Unfortunately the closest my hands have been to some scans was some vifa pl18s. I know 3 years hanging in the doors of my Silverado with no power running to then absolutely destroyed my CDT's.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> There are many things that just can't be explained to someone until you actually have a child. I thought I knew... I didn't. What I can say is if you aren't ready to pour your heart soul blood sweat tears time patience life into a kid, don't have one. Also don't have one just to make someone else happy.
> 
> I absolutely love having children, but the more selfish early 20's me... would have folded like a paper ****ing bag.
> 
> /end drphil


yeah.. as an adopted child, i would never ever have a kid unless i knew i could 100% give it the life it deserves just like i was given.


----------



## SkizeR

the 2 year old next door approves the p99..

not sure how to embed photobucket video..

http://vid1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/iamskizer/Snapchat-20141008052711_zpsji15a6rv.mp4


http://vid1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/iamskizer/Snapchat-20141008052452_zpsgbqrcvcq.mp4

http://vid1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/iamskizer/Snapchat-20141008052624_zpsvmbasjux.mp4


----------



## rton20s

I get this on all links:
"Video can't be played because the file is corrupt."


----------



## 0nbagz

Looks good mate love the wrap


----------



## Coppertone

The videos were cute and you have a star in the making with that one lol...


----------



## SkizeR

fixed?


Snapchat-20141008052624_zpsvmbasjux.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket

Snapchat-20141008052452_zpsgbqrcvcq.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket

Snapchat-20141008052711_zpsji15a6rv.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket

Snapchat-20141008052752_zpsjlwrpvwg.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket


----------



## SkizeR

Coppertone said:


> The videos were cute and you have a star in the making with that one lol...


im going to mentor him to be the #1 in the car audio scene by the time hes able to drive haha


----------



## rton20s

Yep. Cool stuff. 



SkizeR said:


> fixed?
> 
> 
> Snapchat-20141008052624_zpsvmbasjux.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket
> 
> Snapchat-20141008052452_zpsgbqrcvcq.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket
> 
> Snapchat-20141008052711_zpsji15a6rv.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket
> 
> Snapchat-20141008052752_zpsjlwrpvwg.mp4 Video by iamskizer | Photobucket


----------



## REGULARCAB

That's cool to see. My 14month old and I have had some fun session tinkering with my car while she crawls around the back seat. I finally got her too bob her head to some scarface but she will only do it while I'm driving, ive tried so many times to get a vid to send to my wife.


----------



## SkizeR

I think it'll be a while till he's able to come ride in this car considering harnesses do by support baby seats lol


----------



## REGULARCAB

Any progress slacker???


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> Any progress slacker???


no  been working like crazy and have no time. plus its getting cold.


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> no  been working like crazy and have no time. plus its getting cold.


I guess I can understand that. Hell, with the move I haven't even spent the time to track down my laptop and charger since I got the new amp in.


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> I guess I can understand that. Hell, with the move I haven't even spent the time to track down my laptop and charger since I got the new amp in.


also have a girlfriend now, so that takes up the weekends


----------



## REGULARCAB

SkizeR said:


> also have a girlfriend now, so that takes up the weekends


SkizeR finally got laid!!!! epper:


----------



## SkizeR

REGULARCAB said:


> SkizeR finally got laid!!!! epper:


epper:epper:epper:


----------



## quickaudi07

Make sure you introduce her to car audio right away in the beginning stages, so there won't be any bitching down the road! 

I have introduced my GF to car audio and she loves it, I tell her im working in the garage on the car, she wants to learn and comes over and helps me out Oh yea :blush:epper:epper:epper:epper:

That's a true love right there!!! she gives me :wings: each time she asks a question about stuff! I think that's a true 


BTW Great Job, I have decided to read the whole thread on Thanksgiving day, it only took me about 1 h to go through 50 some pages!

Hope your not working on the car today,


----------



## SkizeR

quickaudi07 said:


> Make sure you introduce her to car audio right away in the beginning stages, so there won't be any bitching down the road!
> 
> I have introduced my GF to car audio and she loves it, I tell her im working in the garage on the car, she wants to learn and comes over and helps me out Oh yea :blush:epper:epper:epper:epper:
> 
> That's a true love right there!!! she gives me :wings: each time she asks a question about stuff! I think that's a true
> 
> 
> BTW Great Job, I have decided to read the whole thread on Thanksgiving day, it only took me about 1 h to go through 50 some pages!
> 
> Hope your not working on the car today,


I introduced her a little bit. Nothing to really show her yet though besides the piles of equipment in my room lol

And no working on the car any time soon..


----------



## quickaudi07

I got ya looks like it's getting cold there  same here


----------



## optimaprime

You ever get your laptop and zapco dc software going? I had trouble with mine but since then have done couple laptops with it. Both where windows 7 dell.


----------



## SkizeR

optimaprime said:


> You ever get your laptop and zapco dc software going? I had trouble with mine but since then have done couple laptops with it. Both where windows 7 dell.


nope. havent gotten my laptop fixed or any progress done on this install since its winter. any tricks and tips you wanna give me? lol


----------



## optimaprime

The reasons I had problems were because I kept trying to load the 32 bit version when I had 64 bit version laptop  oops


----------



## SkizeR

officially out of hibernation. started first key turn with 2 year old gas LOL

tomorrow i guess ill continue the amp rack trim.. ?


----------



## Datsubishi

Excited to see some more updates on this beyatch!


----------



## SkizeR

Datsubishi said:


> Excited to see some more updates on this beyatch!


yeah me to. i had the whole winter to actually think and plan everything out instead of getting excited and doing something without planning out the next steps :laugh:


----------



## southpawskater

Just scrolled through the whole thread, killed about 2 hours I don't have at work. Great work so far, cant wait to see more updates.


----------



## ZombieHunter85

Hell yeah this builds back in action!!! love the timeless look of the 300zx.


----------



## captainobvious

Sweet, I was wondering when you'd start cracking away at it again. Looking forward to some updates.


----------



## captainobvious

Oh...and try to make it out for these 2 events in your backyard 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...a-meca-sq-show-syracuse-customs-may-31st.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...sca-meca-2x-event-syracuse-sound-off-2-a.html



Would be nice to meetup and maybe see the progress on the Z, even if it's not completed.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Oh...and try to make it out for these 2 events in your backyard
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...a-meca-sq-show-syracuse-customs-may-31st.html
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...sca-meca-2x-event-syracuse-sound-off-2-a.html
> 
> 
> 
> Would be nice to meetup and maybe see the progress on the Z, even if it's not completed.


"backyard" lol. i didnt know my backyard was 220 miles long :laugh:

i will certainly try to get there. my goal will definitely be to get it done and there by the second one.


----------



## SkizeR

what i really need right now is 2 pieces of 1/4 inch think steel plate thats about 14x16 inches. cant find some anywhere


----------



## SkizeR

or aluminum


----------



## captainobvious

250 1 4" Mill Finish Aluminum Sheet Plate 5052 24" x 24" | eBay

250 1 4" Mill Finish Aluminum Sheet Plate 6061 24" x 48" | eBay

250 1 4" Polished Aluminum Sheet Plate Mirror Finish 5052 12"X36" | eBay

250 1 4" Mill Finish Aluminum Sheet Plate 5052 24" x 48" | eBay


----------



## captainobvious

I found some on ebay a while back when I needed it.

You can cut it yourself as well from a larger piece. Or many of these places will cut it to the dimensions you need.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> I found some on ebay a while back when I needed it.
> 
> You can cut it yourself as well from a larger piece. Or many of these places will cut it to the dimensions you need.


turns out one of my friends has a bunch of scrap. this is literally all i need to have a "working" front setup


----------



## ImLoudEK

i'm very interested to see this build finished...take some videos when its done skiz


----------



## SkizeR

ImLoudEK said:


> i'm very interested to see this build finished...take some videos when its done skiz


i certainly will. everything in this build log now just looks like a gross mess lol. itll all be proper and in place soon enough. im actually drawing up the exact dimentions and cuts for a steel baffle that my friend is going to make me.


----------



## ImLoudEK

you just reminded me...i should be getting off my ass and work on my build...now that the weather nice around here got no excuse lol


----------



## gckless

Awesome car, and awesome work so far.


----------



## SkizeR

0.1875 inch thick steel being cut for the baffles.


----------



## SkizeR




----------



## SkizeR

Thanks to my friend Roth


----------



## SkizeR

posting this here so i dont have to keep re-measuring every time i lose the piece of paper i draw it on..


----------



## SkizeR

all cut out. MUCH better fit off the start than the other attempt.


----------



## LaserSVT

Is it done yet?


----------



## SkizeR

starting to make some progress on the amp racks covers. just not sure what kind of "design" i want to go with for the openings to show the amps. just a regular rectangle? like what bing did with these amps, or maybe something more creative. i just cant think of anything other than the plain rectangle that would look good


----------



## few35t

Definitely in for moar.


----------



## SkizeR

did not realize how strong and heavy 3/16ths steel is.. geez




perfect fit for the speaker, now to test on the doors


----------



## thehatedguy

Two things...

Everytime you hold bare steel with your bare hands, you are getting oil on the metal and it's going to cause surface discoloration.

And how are you attaching those to the car? Welding them can be done but it's going to be difficult to weld 3/16th to sheet metal. To get enough heat to penetrate the thicker steel, you run the risk of blowing through the thin sheet metal.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Two things...
> 
> Everytime you hold bare steel with your bare hands, you are getting oil on the metal and it's going to cause surface discoloration.
> 
> And how are you attaching those to the car? Welding them can be done but it's going to be difficult to weld 3/16th to sheet metal. To get enough heat to penetrate the thicker steel, you run the risk of blowing through the thin sheet metal.


They're being attached by being bolted right to the door. And yes I know. After I drilled the holes I sanded them and cleaned thoroughly, just like I used to at the body shop. Now they are getting primed


----------



## thehatedguy

Good man.

Have you thought about gluing them to the door skin with some panel adhesive? I did that in my old Accord.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Good man.
> 
> Have you thought about gluing them to the door skin with some panel adhesive? I did that in my old Accord.


There's a ton of ccf in the way to prevent rattles so that's not Gunna work. Especially since the door skin is very irregular shaped


----------



## SkizeR

drilled, sanded, cleaned/prepped, primed, deadened and sealed with rubber coating

front deadened with stp (gold?)





back side deadened with the left over alphadamp b stock i had





first 2 coats of rubber coating


----------



## thehatedguy

Did you drill and tap the holes for the speaker screws?


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Did you drill and tap the holes for the speaker screws?


not yet. going to do that after and use silicone around the screws to protect from moisture. unless i, or anyone else in here can think of a better idea


----------



## thehatedguy

I don't know if I would worry about it that much to be honest.


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> I don't know if I would worry about it that much to be honest.


thats what i was thinking. but might as well do the preventative maintenance while im there


----------



## thehatedguy

I think if you used a little oil on the bolts...or some Locktite it would be good.

Then the Locktite would serve two purposes.


----------



## thehatedguy

Wait, are you talking about the speaker bolt holes or the ones for the baffle?


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> I think if you used a little oil on the bolts...or some Locktite it would be good.
> 
> Then the Locktite would serve two purposes.


i have never had any luck with locktite. every time i buy it, it seems like its been sitting for years and its all gooped up and to inconstant


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> Wait, are you talking about the speaker bolt holes or the ones for the baffle?


i already drilled the holes that hold it to the door. the speaker is getting mounted directly to the plate. theres no other way to get an somewhat decent midbass in this door since the door panel sits very very close to the inner door skin. i needed to make the baffle as thin as possible while still being rigid so under any decent amount of excursion the cone wont hit the door panel


----------



## SkizeR

good news.. everything fits. speaker doesnt hit the door panel (from what i can tell) and the magnet doesnt hit the window. bad news, i dont have a tap and die set.. not sure how i can mount the speaker cleanly and have it able to be installed and uninstalled unlimited times without blowing out the holes.


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Id invest in the right tools. 

https://www.fastenal.com/products/cutting-tools-metalworking/threading-and-tapping/tap-and-drill-sets;jsessionid=B2C7507C6EC6D6ED9A4FBA891F2D0947.jvm2?r=~|categoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Tools%209and%20Metalworking%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22601102%20Threading%20and%20Tapping%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22601105%20Tap%20and%20Drill%20Sets%22|~%20~|sattr05:^5pound6-32$|~

Search Fastenal for drill and tap sets. Pretty cheap, be careful hand tapping and make sure you use oil and break the chip every rev.


----------



## SkizeR

deeppinkdiver said:


> Id invest in the right tools.
> 
> https://www.fastenal.com/products/cutting-tools-metalworking/threading-and-tapping/tap-and-drill-sets;jsessionid=B2C7507C6EC6D6ED9A4FBA891F2D0947.jvm2?r=~|categoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Tools%209and%20Metalworking%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22601102%20Threading%20and%20Tapping%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22601105%20Tap%20and%20Drill%20Sets%22|~%20~|sattr05:^5pound6-32$|~
> 
> Search Fastenal for drill and tap sets. Pretty cheap, be careful hand tapping and make sure you use oil and break the chip every rev.


thats the thing. if i had the money to spend right now i wouldnt be asking lol


----------



## thehatedguy

I think you have two options-

Buy a tap and a die- like $10 for it.

Or drill holes and use rivnuts.\


----------



## SkizeR

i ended up just using self tappers


----------



## Theslaking

Are those zinc self tappers?


----------



## Brian_smith06

Well that's not something see in doors everyday. Nice work!


----------



## SkizeR

Theslaking said:


> Are those zinc self tappers?


sheet metal screws. not sure if theyre zinc, but they work. i can take them out and thread them back in perfectly over and over


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> Well that's not something you never see in doors. Nice work!


thanks. the doors entirely could be a lot cleaner but i ended up having to use patches of CCF since i was using scraps from a friend. either way, im not to concerned with how it looks underneath as long as its pretty on the outside and sounds good.


----------



## Theslaking

SkizeR said:


> sheet metal screws. not sure if theyre zinc, but they work. i can take them out and thread them back in perfectly over and over


Learn from me. I'm pretty sure they are zinc. I zoomed in the best PB would allow. Take them out and put stainless screws in. If not you will take the door panels off months after the install is done and find rust streaks running down your very nice speaker baskets. It's been threaded so any matching screw will work now. The rust happened to me. I now use stainless.


----------



## SkizeR

Theslaking said:


> Learn from me. I'm pretty sure they are zinc. I zoomed in the best PB would allow. Take them out and put stainless screws in. If not you will take the door panels off months after the install is done and find rust streaks running down your very nice speaker baskets. It's been threaded so any matching screw will work now. The rust happened to me. I now use stainless.


ahh i forgot about dis-similar metals and how they cause corrosion. good looking out. these were just what i had handy


----------



## SkizeR

actually just took a look at the box and it says theyre steel.


----------



## Theslaking

Besides the advice I love the metal mounting baffle/plate. And car.


----------



## Theslaking

Just make sure they are rust proof.


----------



## Brian_smith06

Patches behind the scenes are more than acceptable. I have faith in you that'll you'll nail it aesthetically. You've taken your time and if you don't like something you start over


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> Patches behind the scenes are more than acceptable. I have faith in you that'll you'll nail it aesthetically. You've taken your time and if you don't like something you start over


yeah, take the amp rack covers for example.. on my third set lol


----------



## Tsmith

Really nice job on the baffles. That looks nice!


----------



## SkizeR

Tsmith said:


> Really nice job on the baffles. That looks nice!


thanks but its all credit to a friend of mine Roth.


----------



## SkizeR

its alive...


----------



## rton20s

Awesome! Look forward to seeing you get it all buttoned up.


----------



## SkizeR

just playing with the front stage midbass 63-1000, mid 1000-6000- and tweeters 6000+, it sounds great for what it is. if only i can find out how to change the crossover frequencies on the p99..


----------



## SkizeR

figured it out. wont let me do auto tune or TA due to no sub :/


----------



## thehatedguy

You going to keep the 6k XO point on the tweeters?


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> You going to keep the 6k XO point on the tweeters?


noo lol. i figured it out. this head unit is so damn confusing. i need to get the zapco software running on my laptop. also very hard to do on windows 8. i changed crossovers to midbass playing 63-325, mids to about 3200, and tweeters from 3200. needs some work. what i really need to do is get the front half of the car buttoned up. i would really like to make it out to the events in syracuse and the one in PA.


----------



## SkizeR

ok, so anyone here have any success getting the zapco dsp program to work on windows 8? im really really going to need some help. it drove me and my computer literate friend crazy trying to get 2 amps to work let alone 6.

anyways, heres a photo i got after cleaning up.


----------



## SkizeR

spent a few hours today trying to figure out this damn head unit. finally got it and did some basic tuning. did auto ta and eq, then went through and set the phase and levels. im impressed so far.


----------



## goodstuff

SkizeR said:


> spent a few hours today trying to figure out this damn head unit. finally got it and did some basic tuning. did auto ta and eq, then went through and set the phase and levels. im impressed so far.


Noice. Glad it's moving along for you.


----------



## SkizeR

goodstuff said:


> Noice. Glad it's moving along for you.


thanks. hopefully you can hear it this year at syracuse this summer


----------



## SkizeR

anyone have any good test tracks? like ones to help tune to see stage width and imaging?


----------



## SkizeR

started tuning with a few staging tracks. so far i love what i hear. i want to cross the midbass higher though (currently low passed at 200hz @ 18db/octave) but when i go higher, the lower midrange gets way bloated and muddy.


----------



## captainobvious

Sounds like you simply need some EQ action to tame some peaks which are pretty typical in this area. Do you have an RTA?

If not, you can use 1/3 octave pink noise tracks to do it by ear.


----------



## casey

if you turn the outputs off for subs itll allow you to do the auto tune stuff. but if youre already messing with it manually i wouldnt bother.

how high are you trying to run the dyns?


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Sounds like you simply need some EQ action to tame some peaks which are pretty typical in this area. Do you have an RTA?
> 
> If not, you can use 1/3 octave pink noise tracks to do it by ear.


i do, but i dont have a mic. been wondering if the p99 mic is calibrated. and i have done some by ear, but i really want to see what it looks like in the rta


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR said:


> i want to cross the midbass higher though (currently low passed at 200hz @ 18db/octave) but when i go higher, the lower midrange gets way bloated and muddy.


Your mid bass 70-300 is getting bloated cause the sub is playing this range i/o the mid. Go lower with the sub mid xover, like some where around 80hz.


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> Your mid bass 70-300 is getting bloated cause the sub is playing this range i/o the mid. Go lower with the sub mid xover, like some where around 80hz.


there is currently no sub


----------



## SkizeR

i did do some eq work and its not as bad, but almost isnt good enough to us


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR said:


> there is currently no sub


Duh!! Bloat is at 80 and then again at 200-250. Make deep cuts here if it still sounds fat, cut at 160.


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> Duh!! Bloat is at 80 and then again at 200-250. Make deep cuts here if it still sounds fat, cut at 160.


ill try that. right now im trying to get a non-usb mic to work with rew. is this even possible?


----------



## SkizeR

Im going to be logging all of my tuning here just so i can have it just in case i lose my notebook that i have everything written down in again. also to get suggestions


Midbass: . 50hz @18db high pass, 160hz @12db low pass
. drivers side levels at 0, passenger side at +2
. phase both set to normal

Midrange: . 250hz @12db high pass, 2k @12db low pass
. levels for both sides set at 0 ***(probably should be re-evaluated due to problems noted later in the post)*
. drivers side phase reversed, right phas set to normal

Tweeters: . 2.5k @12db high pass
. levels at -9 on drivers side, and -4 on the passenger side
. phase both normal, but drivers side set to have 2.43 inch TA delay


MONO EQ via P99rs: 

PS: yes i know your generally supposed to just cut other frequencies instead of boosting others, but in this case where my amps gains and transmitters are set all the way low, i felt boosting was fine since even at max volume its not even that loud

50hz: +4, 63hz: +3.5, 80hz: +3, 100hz: +2, 125hz: +1.5, 160hz: +1, 200hz: +.5, 

i noticed messing with the eq in the next area helped bring the stage up and added a bit of life to the music

800hz: +.5, 1khz: +.5, 1.25khz: +1, 1.6khz: +1, 2khz: +.5
10khz: +.5, 12khz: +1, 16khz: +.5


IMPRESSIONS:

Note: if anyone wants to hear, or even just use the tracks im using, let me know and i can send you the playlist

*Track 1- the pink noise "in phase/out of phase" track*

. When in phase:
. lower mid range is over gauge cluster while the rest is spread through out the center of the dash, but not 100% focused.
(its good for what it is without time alignment)
*** most likely from whats noted above ***

. When out of phase:
. well, you know what happens lol



*The "7 drum hits across the stage" track*

. I'm just going to post an image of where exactly the sounds come from

**note: this is a two dimensional representation and doesnt show the depth. only height and width. also not my car (i wish  )**

. the driver side of the stage is completely bunched up. fack
. center is just a bit left of center, not to bad though
. pass. side stage is also a bit bunched on the far ends, but not as bad as the drivers side





*The "three voices" staging track*


. left sounds like its coming perfectly from my sail panel. pretty damn focused. a bit lower than id like though. depth is pretty decent as well
. center voice is also a bit left of center like the last track and is pretty spread out over the center of the dash with a bit of straggling lower midrange to over the gauge cluster. according to the voice, which says "my voice should be well focused over the center of the dash", id say i need to work on this
. right voice is just as good as the left one. pretty damn focused and all the way to the edge of the sail panel. deeper than the drivers side though






*The 5 tracks from Erins get together disk "The westminster choir..." staging tracks*


*note: this is what i wrote down in the notebook when lsitening*


*Track 4 (all the way left)* 

#4 on pic
. Left is sitting level with the dash (height wise) and sounds like its coming directly from the sail panel
. great width, height not great but decent
 . lower than center by about 4 inches or so. depth is good


*Track 5 (left of center)*

#5 on pic
.left of center is coming from about 2 inches above dash, depth is a few inches behind tweeter (very close to windshield), and width is just a bit right of the tweeter
. should be more right by about 8 inches or so


*Track 6 (center)*

#6 on pic
. sound is generally coming from the center, but has some stragglers towards the drivers side to just a hair past the center of gauge cluster
. center stretches from just a hair left of center of gauge cluster, to just a bit right of center, but mostly dominant just a bit left of center as the rest of the tracks
. height is just above dash, depth is at windshield


*Track 7 (right of center)*

#7 on pic
. right of center is just behind right tweeter and is well focused
. width is a few inches left of pass tweeter, height is just above dash, depth is almost at windshield


*Track 8 (right)*

#8 on pic
. sound comes from just past the pass tweeter by a couple inches. height is slightly lower than center. depth isnt great: its in front of the tweeter by about 2 inches


----------



## Orion525iT

SkizeR said:


> did not realize how strong and heavy 3/16ths steel is.. geez
> 
> 
> 
> 
> perfect fit for the speaker, now to test on the doors


Most likely too late for me to chime in...but in case this doesn't work out.

What I would have done was to mold fiberglass to the door panel itself. Get a few good lairs down, just like building sub enclosures. Use E-glass instead of mat, as it is much stronger and stiffer than regular mat. Once cured, pull the fiberglass from the door. You can layer up some more E-glass at this point if the first layers are not thick enough. Cut a hole for your speaker ring of choice (good quality plywood works well), and secure it in place on the fiberglass. Use fairing compound, or even body filler to smooth the transition from the fiberglass piece to the baffle. Then lay down some Coremat. The Coremat adds thickness and greatly increases stiffness. Then do final layers of E-glass over the core mat. Really 3-4 layers of E-glass on each side with 4mm Coremat in between will make for a super stiff laminate. It won't flex at all. I prefer vinyl ester resin, because it is extremely stiff when cured, and you can still use polyester fillers over top if you need a cosmetic finish.

It would take maybe 1/2 gallon or so of resin to do both sides, maybe less. It would not cost much more than $100, if everything was sourced from a place like US Composites.

The end result is a super stiff and strong baffle that sits flush and is molded directly to the door panel so it mates perfectly. Use a good panel adhesive or even epoxy to attach it to the door. The added benefit is that the laminate will go a long way to stiffen the entire metal door panel. So you get multiple advantages from a single approach.


----------



## SkizeR

Orion525iT said:


> Most likely too late for me to chime in...but in case this doesn't work out.
> 
> What I would have done was to mold fiberglass to the door panel itself. Get a few good lairs down, just like building sub enclosures. Use E-glass instead of mat, as it is much stronger and stiffer than regular mat. Once cured, pull the fiberglass from the door. You can layer up some more E-glass at this point if the first layers are not thick enough. Cut a hole for your speaker ring of choice (good quality plywood works well), and secure it in place on the fiberglass. Use fairing compound, or even body filler to smooth the transition from the fiberglass piece to the baffle. Then lay down some Coremat. The Coremat adds thickness and greatly increases stiffness. Then do final layers of E-glass over the core mat. Really 3-4 layers of E-glass on each side with 4mm Coremat in between will make for a super stiff laminate. It won't flex at all. I prefer vinyl ester resin, because it is extremely stiff when cured, and you can still use polyester fillers over top if you need a cosmetic finish.
> 
> It would take maybe 1/2 gallon or so of resin to do both sides. It would not cost much more than $100, if everything was sourced from a place like US Composites.
> 
> The end result is a super stiff and strong baffle that sits flush and is molded directly to the door panel so it mates perfectly. Use a good panel adhesive or even epoxy to attach it to the door. The added benefit is that the laminate will go a long way to stiffen the entire metal door panel. So you get multiple advantages from a single approach.


i thought about it, but would have been hard to fiberglass over a giant gaping hole in the door lol. also i needed it to be as thin and rigid as possible. i think steel takes the cake on that one. plus, these were pretty much free


----------



## Orion525iT

SkizeR said:


> i thought about it, but would have been hard to fiberglass over a giant gaping hole in the door lol. also i needed it to be as thin and rigid as possible. i think steel takes the cake on that one. plus, these were pretty much free


Nah, just hot glue some thick cardboard or thin plywood in the shape of the hole to plug it. Spray glue down some foil, glass away.  Thats what I did in some areas when I glassed my quarter panels. 

Looks like what you have going is working out in any case.


----------



## SkizeR

Orion525iT said:


> Nah, just hot glue some thick cardboard or thin plywood in the shape of the hole to plug it. Spray glue down some foil, glass away.  Thats what I did in some areas when I glassed my quarter panels.
> 
> Looks like what you have going is working out in any case.


true. and yeah this actually worked very well. very solid


----------



## captainobvious

I would strongly recommend higher crossover slopes for your whole system, but particularly the tweeters and midrange.
Your midrange is playing into it's beaming range and the slope on your tweeters will have them playing into a range of higher distortion and put unnecessary stress on them, exposing them to possible failure.

Use the highest order filters you can while matching acoustic slope as closely as possibly between the drivers. When you have a decent RTA measuring, you can look at the roll off shape and also the crossover points and how the response changes near the transition between drivers by using different slopes and crossover points.

Get your phase as close as possible between drivers using polarity, then use time alignment to dial it in.

EQ out any peaks and try to match left and right side response as closely as possible and you'll be in a much better place


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> I would strongly recommend higher crossover slopes for your whole system, but particularly the tweeters and midrange.
> Your midrange is playing into it's beaming range and the slope on your tweeters will have them playing into a range of higher distortion and put unnecessary stress on them, exposing them to possible failure.
> 
> Use the highest order filters you can while matching acoustic slope as closely as possibly between the drivers. When you have a decent RTA measuring, you can look at the roll off shape and also the crossover points and how the response changes near the transition between drivers by using different slopes and crossover points.
> 
> Get your phase as close as possible between drivers using polarity, then use time alignment to dial it in.
> 
> EQ out any peaks and try to match left and right side response as closely as possible and you'll be in a much better place


well the tweeters have an FS of 700. i think theyre fine. but you also contradicted yourself in the first paragraph. you suggest higher crossovers but then you said im playing the mids into beaming. i had them set here to try and help stage height, but i will try to raise them. im not to concerned about beaming a little bit with the mids since they are very on axis. and i just need to get a working mic :/


----------



## casey

he said higher crossover slopes not frequencies so Its not really contradictory.

try 24/db octave on the low pass for the midrange and on the high pass for the tweeter. You may like the way it sounds better in addition to keeping beaming down and the tweeters safer. Its a 2 minute change back if not


----------



## SkizeR

Ahhh ok. I'm on my way home from work now and will try


----------



## gckless

Nice work. I agree that on the smaller drivers you would probably benefit from steeper slopes. Steeper slopes, and that would allow you to get crossover frequencies closer together. Not that you specifically need that here, but in my mind the closer together you can get each driver to playing it's respective frequency without attenuation or phase issues the better. Maybe I explained that weird.


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Nice work. I agree that on the smaller drivers you would probably benefit from steeper slopes. Steeper slopes, and that would allow you to get crossover frequencies closer together. Not that you specifically need that here, but in my mind the closer together you can get each driver to playing it's respective frequency without attenuation or phase issues the better. Maybe I explained that weird.


well with a steeper slope, comes more intense of phase switching at and around the crossover point. i did try it though and didnt notice much besides center is oh so slightly more focused when at 12db


----------



## SkizeR

can i get a vote.. sealed, or aperiodic for subs? i really want to try aperiodic, but i have some concerns. 1 would be cutting my trunk floor for nothing. another would be all the work and testing involved. and the third would be that the passanger side sub location has an odd shaped floor and will be difficult to pull it off. hmm.. going to be working on them throughout the week


----------



## porscheman

here's my vote


----------



## SkizeR

porscheman said:


> here's my vote


ehh.. each sub is getting its own corner in the trunk. im actually modeling up ported boxes right now which i really want to do, but will be very hard to pull off. when modeling, air port velocity's supposed to be no higher than 20 from what i remember..?


----------



## porscheman

that's 4.2 cubes at 24hz. i think ill have enough low end. i'm still not sure if its going in that way or cone up. the car isn't a subtle statement at the best of times, so i may just leave it this way. those morels want a massive box. more volume for the pair than i have for the gti15, good luck

going AP isn't that hard, can you weld? i'm to lazy to look, are your exhaust cans still up in the fenders? if not airsaw all that out fab yourself a nice flat sopt over the jack location and go for it. gortex, fiberglass insulation and some expanded metal and then tune away.


----------



## SkizeR

porscheman said:


> that's 4.2 cubes at 24hz. i think ill have enough low end. i'm still not sure if its going in that way or cone up. the car isn't a subtle statement at the best of times, so i may just leave it this way. those morels want a massive box. more volume for the pair than i have for the gti15, good luck
> 
> going AP isn't that hard, can you weld? i'm to lazy to look, are your exhaust cans still up in the fenders? if not airsaw all that out fab yourself a nice flat sopt over the jack location and go for it. gortex, fiberglass insulation and some expanded metal and then tune away.


thats huge. interior trim is over rated lol. but i know its not hard, its just the passanger side doesnt have a good spot to vent out of the car since there is the big dip in the floor where the jack goes. i really want to go ported since i got it, but its hard with this car


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> well the tweeters have an FS of 700. i think theyre fine. but you also contradicted yourself in the first paragraph. you suggest higher crossovers but then you said im playing the mids into beaming. i had them set here to try and help stage height, but i will try to raise them. im not to concerned about beaming a little bit with the mids since they are very on axis. and i just need to get a working mic :/



Casey is correct, I was referring to the rolloff (slope) around the crossover point. If your 4" mid is closer to say 3.5" measured center of surround to surround, then you'll be approaching beaming near 2khz. The 12mu is listed as a 4.5" so it would likely have a little larger surface area and begin beaming a little earlier even. 



Have a look at this response chart for the Scan 12mu. 





You'll notice that between 1K and 2K the on and off-axis responses start to deviate. This is the beaming point. It becomes worse the further in frequency you rise and the further off-axis you are. Notice that at 4khz, the difference in on axis and off-axis is about 8db. Why is this an issue? Because you can't separately EQ direct sound (the sound that radiates off the cone and hits your ears directly) and reflected sound (Sound that bounces off other objects and then reaches your ears). So even if you have the drivers aimed perfectly on axis to your listening position, you will still have a much different response in the direct sound vs the reflected sound. This is very noticeable in a car when you move your head a little forward or to a side and the sound changes. By keeping your drivers playing below their beaming range, your able to make the sound power response far more even and cohesive. (ie- the direct sound and the reflected sound are about the same because the speaker is limited to playing only frequencies where the on and off axis response haven't deviated yet). Erin's car is a great example of this.


If the tweeters have an FS of 700hz, they could be crossed a little lower (depending on their distortion performance). I'd say around 2khz with a steep slope might be a good point between the mid and tweeter. I'd try the highest slope you can first and work your way back from there to get the response shape and phase around the crossover point right. Use your TA to dial it in. Of course you can go a little higher with the crossover, but you really want to use steep slopes to limit the audible beaming range on the mid and to limit excursion and distortion on the tweeter. 

You've got a great selection of equipment here so I'm sure this can be a pretty killer sounding vehicle.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Casey is correct, I was referring to the rolloff (slope) around the crossover point. If your 4" mid is closer to say 3.5" measured center of surround to surround, then you'll be approaching beaming near 2khz. The 12mu is listed as a 4.5" so it would likely have a little larger surface area and begin beaming a little earlier even.
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at this response chart for the Scan 12mu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice that between 1K and 2K the on and off-axis responses start to deviate. This is the beaming point. It becomes worse the further in frequency you rise and the further off-axis you are. Notice that at 4khz, the difference in on axis and off-axis is about 8db. Why is this an issue? Because you can't separately EQ direct sound (the sound that radiates off the cone and hits your ears directly) and reflected sound (Sound that bounces off other objects and then reaches your ears). So even if you have the drivers aimed perfectly on axis to your listening position, you will still have a much different response in the direct sound vs the reflected sound. This is very noticeable in a car when you move your head a little forward or to a side and the sound changes. By keeping your drivers playing below their beaming range, your able to make the sound power response far more even and cohesive. (ie- the direct sound and the reflected sound are about the same because the speaker is limited to playing only frequencies where the on and off axis response haven't deviated yet). Erin's car is a great example of this.
> 
> 
> If the tweeters have an FS of 700hz, they could be crossed a little lower (depending on their distortion performance). I'd say around 2khz with a steep slope might be a good point between the mid and tweeter. I'd try the highest slope you can first and work your way back from there to get the response shape and phase around the crossover point right. Use your TA to dial it in. Of course you can go a little higher with the crossover, but you really want to use steep slopes to limit the audible beaming range on the mid and to limit excursion and distortion on the tweeter.
> 
> You've got a great selection of equipment here so I'm sure this can be a pretty killer sounding vehicle.


i know what beaming is and how it works. but the driver has an sd of 58 cm, which equates to an 8.59 inch diameter of center of surround to other side center of surround. this means beaming point is 4065hz. i understand all of your reasonings im just not sure where you get than a 4 inch driver beams at around 2k. also scan advertises them as the total mounting diameter. not the cone


----------



## captainobvious

I would try sealed first as it's the simplest option and would probably still sound great.


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> i know what beaming is and how it works. but the driver has an sd of 58 cm, which equates to an 8.59 inch diameter of center of surround to other side center of surround. this means beaming point is 4065hz. i understand all of your reasonings im just not sure where you get than a 4 inch driver beams at around 2k. also scan advertises them as the total mounting diameter. not the cone


A 4.5" driver can't have a ctc surround measurement of 8.59"? Was that just a typo? 

If you measure with a ruler from the center of the surround left side of the cone to the center of the surround right side of the cone on one 12mu what do you get? Should be somewhere around 4". The beaming point is definitely between 1khz and 2khz as evidenced by the graph above. It shows that the response begins to differ in that area as you move more off axis.


PS- Car looks awesome. I hope you join us in Syracuse for the show- I'd love to check it out!


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> A 4.5" driver can't have a ctc surround measurement of 8.59"? Was that just a typo?
> 
> If you measure with a ruler from the center of the surround left side of the cone to the center of the surround right side of the cone on one 12mu what do you get? Should be somewhere around 4". The beaming point is definitely between 1khz and 2khz as evidenced by the graph above. It shows that the response begins to differ in that area as you move more off axis.
> 
> 
> PS- Car looks awesome. I hope you join us in Syracuse for the show- I'd love to check it out!


****. i meant centimeter. it has a 3.3 inch diameter. and it wont be at the one coming up. maybe, juuuuuust maybe at the one in july


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> ****. i meant centimeter. it has a 3.3 inch diameter. and it wont be at the one coming up. maybe, juuuuuust maybe at the one in july


Ahhhhh, that makes sense then


----------



## SkizeR

wooooo!! finally was able to get all of my amps DSP's working properly and got them all linked together and assigned correctly. thank god. BUT i do have one very weird problem. my tweeter amp is acting funny. when i turn the car off, the amp stays on, but in protect. so its been on, but in protect for 2 days sitting in the car. i was able to notice by hearing the fan still whirling around (thank god for those noisy zapco fans, kinda). but once i turn the car on, it works fine, BUT the green "ON" LED wont go on. any ideas?


other than that i set my TA with help from erins calculator and it worked out great. ended up having to go back and mess with the phase settings i already adjusted earlier, but its a bit better than before. not much though :/ i still have issues with the whole stage compression on the left side and the center "straggling" over the gauge cluster.

other than that, without any eq and only rough levels, the tonality is great besides a bit of nasaly sound in the very low end of the midrange. again, its better than it was before, but its still present in some songs. i need to order a dayton mic asap


----------



## SkizeR

anyone have a zip of the meca disk that they would send me?


----------



## Theslaking

This one?


----------



## SkizeR

I actually got it from a friend. Thanks though


----------



## captainobvious

Is it possible that you have polarity mixed on the power input of the tweeter amp? 

(I've done it before). If not...

What happens if you disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and then power the system on. Same result?


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Is it possible that you have polarity mixed on the power input of the tweeter amp?
> 
> (I've done it before). If not...
> 
> What happens if you disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and then power the system on. Same result?


as in ground and positive switched? no. i didnt get to try disconnecting the speakers though


----------



## captainobvious

I'll be curious to see what happens when you try that. Lmk...


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> I'll be curious to see what happens when you try that. Lmk...


is that a challenge to go try right now? lol


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> is that a challenge to go try right now? lol



This is me tapping my foot waiting...


:laugh:


----------



## captainobvious

If that changes nothing, also do the same with the RCA connections going to the amp.

If you get the same thing happening with no speaker or signal connections, that amp may need repair. :/


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> If that changes nothing, also do the same with the RCA connections going to the amp.
> 
> If you get the same thing happening with no speaker or signal connections, that amp may need repair. :/


didnt try with signal cables, but i did with speaker. same thing. :/ at least i have a replacement i could use which would be the dc 360.4. 

but i did wake up early to go tune. i found out the p99 mic works with my phone so i could use that while i wait on the dayton mic. also gotta figure out how to upload the drivers to my freshly rebooted laptop. cant get the wifi drivers to upload right. oh well. ill worry about it when the time comes. but that said, using the p99 mic (which i hope is pretty flat) i got some pretty good results. there was the typical dip in the 300hz region. i was able to get it level a bit by lowering some stuff around it, boosting it a tiny bit, and messing with the crossover on the mid. there were also nasty peaks at around 1.6k and 5-6k. note that this is only mono eq and im still having issues with the stage shifting to the drivers side but this seemed to help with it a decent amount. the app i use is cheap, and can go up to 120 bands. i used 60 bands. its called RTA Pro. it can also average your results for you in real time so everything isnt jumping around. you can also freeze it to view. ignore my friend in the corner. he was just wishing me a happy birthday :rockon:


----------



## captainobvious

So how does this mic work? Do you simply plug it into the headphone jack?
Does the software do any sort of auto calibration on the mic? Looks like neat software, I'll have to check it out.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> So how does this mic work? Do you simply plug it into the headphone jack?
> Does the software do any sort of auto calibration on the mic? Looks like neat software, I'll have to check it out.


yeah you just plug it in. you will need a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter though since the p99 mic is 2.5mm. luckily i had one from my astro a-50 headset that isnt in use since i sold my xbox. and you can do a fairly good amount with it considering its just a basic phone app rta. you can calibrate it, but you would need a perfectly flat system im guessing. i think its a basic "play pink noise and itll adjust to be flat" calibration. no files for certain mics or anything so you would need something perfectly flat to actually calibrate it


----------



## captainobvious

Ahh, ok.

I was actually looking into DL'ing the AudioTools app which has all kinds of great tools in it and I could use it on my ipad mini as a more portable RTA solution.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Ahh, ok.
> 
> I was actually looking into DL'ing the AudioTools app which has all kinds of great tools in it and I could use it on my ipad mini as a more portable RTA solution.


what other stuff does that app have?


----------



## Babs

captainobvious said:


> Ahh, ok.
> 
> I was actually looking into DL'ing the AudioTools app which has all kinds of great tools in it and I could use it on my ipad mini as a more portable RTA solution.





SkizeR said:


> what other stuff does that app have?


I sprang for the base.. It's got a BUNCH of stuff, though I've far from mastered anything with it. Looks like it's quite a thorough app.

Base before in-app purchases includes:
SPL meter
RTA
FFT
Some kind of dual trace Audio O-scope ??
Speaker polarity test
Something called delay finder
Signal generator
Calculators (dB, Wavelength, Reactance, Room Modes, Delay, Ohms Law, Bandwidth / Q)
Bunch of other little design tools I don't understand
Link for file downloads

Bunch of in-app add-ons with purchase

Would be great fodder for some vid instruction youtubes.. Though they may already be done.


----------



## SkizeR

i only see the one thats 7+ dollars. no free version


----------



## SkizeR

also, any recommendations for an agm battery charger?


----------



## captainobvious

Yeah AudioTools isn't a free app. They have a very robust featureset though so depending on how you'd use it, it's very worth it. Plus great supports and LOTS of other add ins to the app that can be purchased a la carte. I think I may simply use my ipad mini with it and pickup one of the firewire/usb mics and run that as my RTA. So much more portable and convenient.


----------



## optimaprime

I may look at that app. I need to learn to tune. I get way overwhelmed when reading on here how to tune. Nice job on getting the software on laptop. I wish the amps could be labeled on the software thou.


----------



## optimaprime

Where do position the mic ?


----------



## SkizeR

They are labeled on the software. And I position it are my forehead


----------



## SkizeR

small update. i actually left my house and had an awesome bday weekend so no major progress.. but it was worth it since i went snowboarding, believe it or not. there was the annual mayday event which is always fun and out of control

did some work with the subs boxes monday night. finished glassing and trimmed one. just gotta make the baffle and inside wall. didnt get any trimmed pics though. added some carbon fiber for extra strength on flat spots. probably pointless, but whatever






today i tuned. i started on a clean slate in terms of the eq. the last one i did read flat on the rta, but just didnt make sense. also sounded out of place.

i started by doing the right side first. 


this is what i started off with on the right side. keep in mind there are still no subs in the car..



nasty dip in the typical 300hz range. i gotta go back and verify if its as noticeable by ear.

heres how it ended up the second last time i tweaked it. didnt get a screen shot of the final result :/. not perfect, but acceptable





heres the start of the left side. turns out the dip i was having trouble with since i got it playing is only on the right side.





here is the right side after i finished with it. also not perfect, but acceptable.





and heres the result of both sides played at once WITHOUT any mono eq work. gotta confim and possibly find a way to fix that dip on the right side







settings are now currently:

*Left EQ*

630hz: -1.5db, 800hz: -3db, 1khz: -9db, 1.25khz: -7.5db, 1.6khz: -5db, 2khz: -2.5db, 2.5khz: -2.5db, 4khz: -0.5db, 6.3khz: -1.5db, 8khz: -0.5db, 12.5khz: +1.5db, 16khz: +1.5db



*Right EQ*

250hz: +1db, 315hz: +1db, 400hz: +1db, 500hz: +1db, 630hz: +0.5db, 1khz: -2.5db, 1.25khz: -6.5db, 1.6khz: -4db, 2khz: -0.5db, 4khz: +0.5db, 5khz: -5.5db, 6.3khz: -5db, 10k: -1db


heres a photoshop of the left and right graphs overlayed eachother. the green peaks are the right side, and the dark pink peaks are the left side, the green/pink mix is equal.


----------



## SkizeR

tuned a bit more today. i didnt write down the eq and crossover settings like i usually do to keep stored here. ill do that tomorrow. heres the response i started with






i started off with the right side first. this is the response i started with






ended up with this response on the right side after some adjustments






started off with this on the left side. pretty flat already, just wanted to take car of the peaks at 1.25k - 4k






this is what i ended with. the peak at 1.25k and at 8k arent audible. for some reason the mic pics it up no matter how much i change the eq in that area






end result






also changed an injector today. shes running damn fine now. just gotta do a 120k and maybe i can get it out to some shows!! (even though the interior is a ****ing mess)


----------



## sqnut

Those are some funky pup eq settings . Want me to try my hand at some remote tuning?


----------



## gckless

captainobvious said:


> Yeah AudioTools isn't a free app. They have a very robust featureset though so depending on how you'd use it, it's very worth it. Plus great supports and LOTS of other add ins to the app that can be purchased a la carte. I think I may simply use my ipad mini with it and pickup one of the firewire/usb mics and run that as my RTA. So much more portable and convenient.


That app has been invaluable for me. Well worth the money.

You want this mic for any apple device: Dayton Audio iMM-6 iDevice Calibrated Measurement Microphone

Same thing I use, that mic and AudioTools. That mic has the same electret condenser as their $80 USB mic, and you can download the calibration file and upload to AudioTools. 

Sorry, didn't mean to thread jack SkizeR. But I'd recommend it to you too


----------



## captainobvious

I'm not sure how accurate the RTA software/mic combo actually is, but how does it sound to your ears? I would expect this to be a little bright based on the end result graph with a fully calibrated mic/RTA setup. Typically, you'd want it to be a little closer to flat or at least tilting a bit downward (It appears to rise a little in response as you move up in frequency), but again who knows how accurate the RTA/mic combo is. Your ears will tell you if its too bright 

I was going to ask if that null in the 300-400hz range was a modal issue and to try boosting it to see what happens, but it looks like you did try that and it responded fairly well- sweet! I'm assuming you had to boost the hell out of that range, yes? No worries, you can certainly use boost in your EQing, you just have to be more conscious of clipping the amplifier so set gains a little more conservatively or get it really dialed in with an oscope for best results 

I ordered up a CSL fully calibrated usb UMIK-1 for my ipad mini to use along with that AudioTools software. Should make for a great portable tuning solution. I'l lpost up my findings on it.

Things are shaping up nicely with the Z !


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> I'm not sure how accurate the RTA software/mic combo actually is, but how does it sound to your ears? I would expect this to be a little bright based on the end result graph with a fully calibrated mic/RTA setup. Typically, you'd want it to be a little closer to flat or at least tilting a bit downward (It appears to rise a little in response as you move up in frequency), but again who knows how accurate the RTA/mic combo is. Your ears will tell you if its too bright
> 
> I was going to ask if that null in the 300-400hz range was a modal issue and to try boosting it to see what happens, but it looks like you did try that and it responded fairly well- sweet! I'm assuming you had to boost the hell out of that range, yes? No worries, you can certainly use boost in your EQing, you just have to be more conscious of clipping the amplifier so set gains a little more conservatively or get it really dialed in with an oscope for best results
> 
> I ordered up a CSL fully calibrated usb UMIK-1 for my ipad mini to use along with that AudioTools software. Should make for a great portable tuning solution. I'l lpost up my findings on it.
> 
> Things are shaping up nicely with the Z !


im not sure how accurate it is either, but i got my first paycheck the other day after not working for a few months to snowboard. im going to order the dayton usb mic tonight and get rew going. i noticed that it seems pretty accurate, except itll read, lets say 500hz, as 600hz. not a big deal. and yeah i know itll be bright being completely flat up top, and it is a bit to much. as of right now im just eq'ing to get as FLAT as possible, then use the zapco software to tune to my desired curve. and i only boosted about +3 db at most. it was mostly crossover work to get that area somewhat flat. the thing that made it even harder was the right before the 300-500hz dip, there wsa a major peak at 250-275hz, which refused to go away no matter how much i cut. figured that out to but i forget how. probably crossovers as well. i remember someone (probably erin or kyle) saying try to eq as much as possible with just your crossovers. and it works. Thanks guys


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> That app has been invaluable for me. Well worth the money.
> 
> You want this mic for any apple device: Dayton Audio iMM-6 iDevice Calibrated Measurement Microphone
> 
> Same thing I use, that mic and AudioTools. That mic has the same electret condenser as their $80 USB mic, and you can download the calibration file and upload to AudioTools.
> 
> Sorry, didn't mean to thread jack SkizeR. But I'd recommend it to you too


i tried to get it but i couldnt remember my password for the google play store lol


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> Those are some funky pup eq settings . Want me to try my hand at some remote tuning?


i went back from my original eq settings and started clean slate. had a decently flat response with eq settings that actually made sense, then i went back yesterday and got it even flatter. but i can send you some pics of my resonse with eq off and all crossover settings to make some suggestions


----------



## captainobvious

gckless said:


> That app has been invaluable for me. Well worth the money.
> 
> You want this mic for any apple device: Dayton Audio iMM-6 iDevice Calibrated Measurement Microphone
> 
> Same thing I use, that mic and AudioTools. That mic has the same electret condenser as their $80 USB mic, and you can download the calibration file and upload to AudioTools.
> 
> Sorry, didn't mean to thread jack SkizeR. But I'd recommend it to you too



Gil- See above post. I went with the UMIK-1 because it seemed to be the best USB option available and should work fine with the Apple lightning to USB camera connector.

StudioSix posted this about the Dayton iMM6 (and MicW):

--------------------------------------------------------------
*MicW and IMM6 Evaluation*

_We have thoroughly tested MicW and IMM6, and our conclusion is that they do not improve on the performance of the built-in Apple device microphones, whether the iPhone mic or the supplied headset mic, other than in appearance, and in the fact that it is a couple of inches away from the iPhone._
_Basically you are trading one small-diameter electret condenser capsule for another, with similar performance._
_This is because any mic that plugs into the headset connector is subject to the same filters as the Apple mics. There is no way to avoid the effects of the severe Apple low-frequency roll-off filters and limiters, so any mic plugged into the headset connector suffers from the same problems._
_Also, we have recently discovered that due to the design of the headset jack, if you turn on the output you will get bleed, sometimes severe, back into the mic input. This bleed effect is described in further detail here._
_Therefore, although it would be great to have a moderately priced microphone that performed well, we do not recommend spending money on this device, as it will not improve the performance of AudioTools._
_iOS 6 update: We have been able to defeat the internal low-frequency rolloff filters in iOS 6, using AudioTools 4.7. However, even in iOS 6, we see no improvement in frequency response, or flatness, with micW or iMM6, over the Apple-supplied internal mic._



----------------------------------------------------------


These tests also showed some interesting comparisons of a calibrated lab mic vs the UMIK-1 as well as a comparison of the iMM6. iPad Measurement Mics

I've started a new thread (so as to not clutter up Skizer's build thread with the info) here:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...acurate-rta-tuning-solutions.html#post2445274







.


----------



## sqnut

You don't want flat, that is the key. You've already posted enough data. Can you tell me how you're setting L/R between 80-800? I will give you revised settings based on your current eq settings and the rta. You implement them and see how it sounds. At the end of the day its about how it sounds, right?


----------



## SkizeR

clutter all you want. i use this thread as a notebook pretty much. i always go back to see what people suggested and what we talked about


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> You don't want flat, that is the key. You've already posted enough data. Can you tell me how you're setting L/R between 80-800? I will give you revised settings based on your current eq settings and the rta. You implement them and see how it sounds. At the end of the day its about how it sounds, right?


thanks. right now it actually sounds damn good. lower tuned snare hits kick you like a ****ing mule lol. the way i was doing was just taking a reading, and cutting the peaks. if you go back a couple pages you can probably see my first rta readings but they were with both sides playing. i can get no eq readings left and right when i get off work later


----------



## SkizeR

so if i were to do the body work to get it looking nice, what color would you make this car? looking for suggestions. or would you keep it the same color? problem is i dont know the paint code


----------



## SkizeR

and sorry sqnut, i didnt get to take any readings today. changed the oil for the first time (dont worry, it hasnt even been driven a mile since i bought it lol) and drove it around the block a bit.


----------



## captainobvious

SkizeR said:


> so if i were to do the body work to get it looking nice, what color would you make this car? looking for suggestions. or would you keep it the same color? problem is i dont know the paint code


House of Kolor - Shimrin 2 Colors

I would rock the Brandywine or Apple Red. Both would look KILLER on that Z.


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> House of Kolor - Shimrin 2 Colors
> 
> I would rock the Brandywine or Apple Red. Both would look KILLER on that Z.


well itll most likely be vinyl wrapped. but im sure theres a color made by 3m, avery, or vvivid thats almost exactly the same. im getting samples in soon. i can do all the body work to fix it up myself, but i dont have 6k for a good lasting paint job


----------



## rton20s

From Cap's color palate, I would go with something like Cortez Blue or Midnight Blue. I'm sure you could find something along those lines in a vinyl.

Also, since you have the skills, I think you should photoshop yourself some color options and post them up here for a vote.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> From Cap's color palate, I would go with something like Cortez Blue or Midnight Blue. I'm sure you could find something along those lines in a vinyl.
> 
> Also, since you have the skills, I think you should photoshop yourself some color options and post them up here for a vote.


i actually was going to but im at work. i have a white and black version on my computer but its hard to say because it never comes out perfect, ya know? the white looks weird because it looks like an off white. and the black just looks unrealistic


----------



## SkizeR

got a whole vinyl sample from avery of all of the vinyls they make.. heres a few that stand out. note that it might not be an exact color from what it looks like in person, but i did my best to photoshop what it really looks like


----------



## few35t

Matte metallic orange would be dope!


----------



## SkizeR

w35t_fg2 said:


> Matte metallic orange would be dope!


thats literally the color of the car now lol.


----------



## ZombieHunter85

Or the gunmetal would maybe contrast well.


----------



## few35t

SkizeR said:


> thats literally the color of the car now lol.



That makes it even better! Similar to OEM but the matte would really set it off. All Z's should be orange IMO =)


----------



## SkizeR

w35t_fg2 said:


> That makes it even better! Similar to OEM but the matte would really set it off. All Z's should be orange IMO =)


its actually not an oem color. and sadly, the vinyl one looks a bit off. its a shade or two brighter. if it was exact and gloss, i definitely would


----------



## captainobvious

Pearl gold orange of that bunch. Will have a lot of pop.


----------



## SkizeR

these are actually just the samples. i also have some coming from vvivid. they have a "satin chrome" line that looks ****ing sweet. as shown here.. the first mercedes is on point

https://www.google.com/search?q=vvi...a=X&ei=wVlfVbGBIYGYyASZloGgCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg


----------



## rton20s

I don't know why, but I keep coming back to blue for your car. I think something about the wheels is pushing me in that direction. Maybe one of the matte metallics?


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> I don't know why, but I keep coming back to blue for your car. I think something about the wheels is pushing me in that direction. Maybe one of the matte metallics?


when i first got the swatch, the matte metallic lagoon blue was the first one to catch my eye. and either way if i dont like it, i can just peel it off. its not TO expensive. probably 300 dollars worth of vinyl for my car and have a bunch left over in case of scratches on some panels


----------



## Brian_smith06

SkizeR said:


> these are actually just the samples. i also have some coming from vvivid. they have a "satin chrome" line that looks ****ing sweet. as shown here.. the first mercedes is on point
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=vvi...a=X&ei=wVlfVbGBIYGYyASZloGgCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg


the sls? That thing is sick! 

Would look damn good on the 300

That being said I was kind of digging the blue lagoon you posted.


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> when i first got the swatch, the matte metallic lagoon blue was the first one to catch my eye. and either way if i dont like it, i can just peel it off. its not TO expensive. probably 300 dollars worth of vinyl for my car and have a bunch left over in case of scratches on some panels





Brian_smith06 said:


> the sls? That thing is sick!
> 
> Would look damn good on the 300
> 
> That being said I was kind of digging the blue lagoon you posted.


I like the Lagoon Blue as well. Definitely not something you see every day. But not so crazy that you'll question what you were thinking after a few months. I think it will work with your wheel color as well.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> I like the Lagoon Blue as well. Definitely not something you see every day. But not so crazy that you'll question what you were thinking after a few months. I think it will work with your wheel color as well.


yeah a big concern of mine is if itll work with the brushed aluminum wheels. i think the blue will.


----------



## SkizeR

its kinda like a matte metallic teal


----------



## SkizeR

if all else fails, matte white, or matte black


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> if all else fails, matte white, or matte black


Please, not matte black. I know when done right it looks good, but it is so overdone at this point. I think one of the only cars in recent memory that has gotten it "right" and wasn't just one more "murdered out" fail was JJ's GT-R. Then again, I wouldn't even want to guess how much he spent having a wrap as detailed as his done. The black anodized brushed aluminum look vinyl accents on that car was perfect.


----------



## rton20s

Also, what wheels are those? Do they actually have a brushed finish, or is it just a clear over the aluminum (OE wheel style)?


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Also, what wheels are those? Do they actually have a brushed finish, or is it just a clear over the aluminum (OE wheel style)?


well it is just an aliminum color. not exactly brushed. and theres tons of more colors in another book they sent that im looking through now

or just check here 

Car Wraps & Custom Car Wrap Film | Avery Dennison | Graphics


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> well it is just an aliminum color. not exactly brushed. and theres tons of more colors in another book they sent that im looking through now
> 
> or just check here
> 
> Car Wraps & Custom Car Wrap Film | Avery Dennison | Graphics


This is the one!


----------



## quickaudi07

Cool colors, please no pink on my pillars lol !


----------



## SkizeR

narrowed it down to these four choices.. i do like the lagoon blue a lot but i think it might be to "flashy" and "showy". heres some pics with the wheels to see how the combo would look. i also bent them a bit to emulate the curves of the car to see how the colors contrast in different angles of light. the matte metallic blue might take it (third pic)


----------



## SkizeR

some test shops.. note that the white is a strange off white and doesnt look that good on photoshop but might look good in person. might just stay with the white. also note that its almost impossible to replicate a matte finish on a photo of a gloss painted car, so these are all gloss finished colors


----------



## subwoofery

Purple from your photoshop pics  

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

I don't even know why I put it there lol. Probably just going to stick with my original idea and go with the white


----------



## rton20s

I think I like the matte blue metallic.


----------



## few35t

You can never go wrong with white! :thumbsup:


----------



## SkizeR

w35t_fg2 said:


> You can never go wrong with white! :thumbsup:


my thoughts exactly


----------



## cajunner

I like the champagne lexus color, that pearlescent white? Maybe they have that... because, you can't go wrong with white.


----------



## SkizeR

cajunner said:


> I like the champagne lexus color, that pearlescent white? Maybe they have that... because, you can't go wrong with white.


they do have a pearl white. as a matter of fact, someone on one of the z32 groups just wrapped their z with it the other day. it looked good, great actually. but cell phone pics can only tell so much


----------



## SkizeR

got some body work done yesterday. repairing the side skirts from when the jackstand gave out last year. luckily i always put something extra under the car for safety incase of something like that happens. to bad it took out both of the molded side skirts with it..


got this ***** some long and strong.. bitches love long and strong


----------



## cajunner

ever see some copper right after it's been wiped with ammonia chloride based brightener?

that light, pinkish metal color, that's what I'd like on that car. The copper that's on it now, is like the older, more matured, aged patina color copper, I'd take it back to when it was just a baby, all shiny and new...

I wonder if that is a real color, "just cleaned copper," haha..

and if they can do it in vinyl, or maybe it's a new product waiting to happen... like doing a vinyl wrap and adding the pearlescent flake, or maybe metcoat, yeah...

just learned about that, it's a way cool way to add corrosion protection that involves using metal powder, an oxy/acetylene "spray gun" and fire....

it'd be like the deLorean, except instead of Stainless Steel's metallic grey it would be pinked out copper instead...


and it wouldn't rust!


haha... There's a company that makes Stellite, that would be some pretty neat conversation piece.


----------



## SkizeR

cajunner said:


> ever see some copper right after it's been wiped with ammonia chloride based brightener?
> 
> that light, pinkish metal color, that's what I'd like on that car. The copper that's on it now, is like the older, more matured, aged patina color copper, I'd take it back to when it was just a baby, all shiny and new...
> 
> I wonder if that is a real color, "just cleaned copper," haha..
> 
> and if they can do it in vinyl, or maybe it's a new product waiting to happen... like doing a vinyl wrap and adding the pearlescent flake, or maybe metcoat, yeah...
> 
> just learned about that, it's a way cool way to add corrosion protection that involves using metal powder, an oxy/acetylene "spray gun" and fire....
> 
> it'd be like the deLorean, except instead of Stainless Steel's metallic grey it would be pinked out copper instead...
> 
> 
> and it wouldn't rust!
> 
> 
> haha... There's a company that makes Stellite, that would be some pretty neat conversation piece.


like the hybrid audio SE phase plugs? and you (or they) can make any color vinyl you desire. its just ink printed on vinyl with a special clear coat over it. they also have some with CRAZY metallic textures. in the other sample booklet theres a line they have that has metallic flakes that are about almost a millimeter in diameter. huge (well as far as metallic additive goes lol)


----------



## Brian_smith06

digging this wrap quite a bit

Ferrari California $5K Stereo Nav Back Up Camera 2 for 1 Color Combo | eBay


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> digging this wrap quite a bit
> 
> Ferrari California $5K Stereo Nav Back Up Camera 2 for 1 Color Combo | eBay


i dont think thats the same brand that i got samples from so far, but it is similar to the satin pearl white


----------



## MotoCARR

I've always been a fan of the super rare LP2 Deep Purple Metallic. Only 216 models had it!


----------



## SkizeR

MotoCARR said:


> I've always been a fan of the super rare LP2 Deep Purple Metallic. Only 216 models had it!


thats actually what i tried to mimic lol. a good friend of mine has one.


----------



## MotoCARR

That was an option for me too, but I decided to go with Plasti Dip. I got a roll of 3M DiNoc to mess around with and found that I can probably do the whole car, but the bumpers are where it gets real tricky where the bumper starts to curve in two directions lol


----------



## SkizeR

MotoCARR said:


> That was an option for me too, but I decided to go with Plasti Dip. I got a roll of 3M DiNoc to mess around with and found that I can probably do the whole car, but the bumpers are where it gets real tricky where the bumper starts to curve in two directions lol


yeah thats the only hard part. you can use a special pre-layed down tape that cuts vinyl when you wrap over it and pull up on it to get in tight contouring areas.


----------



## MotoCARR

SkizeR said:


> yeah thats the only hard part. you can use a special pre-layed down tape that cuts vinyl when you wrap over it and pull up on it to get in tight contouring areas.


What about the textured part above the side skirt but below the pin stripe line.....think it will stick to that? Hard to tell from the pics but do you have door fillers on there?


----------



## SkizeR

MotoCARR said:


> What about the textured part above the side skirt but below the pin stripe line.....think it will stick to that? Hard to tell from the pics but do you have door fillers on there?


itll stick to anything as long as its clean. there is not textured skirts on my car like it comes from the factory though


----------



## MotoCARR

Nice, never understood why Nissan did that. Can't say I've seen it on any other car either lol.


----------



## SkizeR

MotoCARR said:


> Nice, never understood why Nissan did that. Can't say I've seen it on any other car either lol.


those areas have the textured coating on many makes and model cars. they just dont go as high up as nissan put them and theyre not very obvious and visible. i personally never liked that about the 300zx


----------



## LaserSVT

MotoCARR said:


> Nice, never understood why Nissan did that. Can't say I've seen it on any other car either lol.


In 1993 I rented a Corvette and blew up second gear. They were out of Corvettes and gave me a 63 mile old 300Z. I lived in Maui. I drove it the back way around to Hana. That was when the rental companies forbid even their Jeeps to go there. 30 miles of gravel potholed road. I kept that Z above 60 the whole time and the sounds of rocks hitting it was tremendous. To my surprise there wasn't a single ding down there at all.

Thats why I don't buy ex rental cars but did buy my first Z a couple years latter. LOL


----------



## SkizeR

LaserSVT said:


> In 1993 I rented a Corvette and blew up second gear. They were out of Corvettes and gave me a 63 mile old 300Z. I lived in Maui. I drove it the back way around to Hana. That was when the rental companies forbid even their Jeeps to go there. 30 miles of gravel potholed road. I kept that Z above 60 the whole time and the sounds of rocks hitting it was tremendous. To my surprise there wasn't a single ding down there at all.
> 
> Thats why I don't buy ex rental cars but did buy my first Z a couple years latter. LOL


oh man i feel so bad for people who buy old rental cars. i used to work for enterprise and saw some ****ed up stuff done to those cars


----------



## SkizeR

tomorrow is pay dayyyyyyyyy.. picking up a new bumper and the vinyl this weekend so im going to try to bust out all of the body work by tomorrow. im just hoping that long haired filler will hold up for a long enough time for the more damaged areas (side skirts)


----------



## LaserSVT

SkizeR said:


> oh man i feel so bad for people who buy old rental cars. i used to work for enterprise and saw some ****ed up stuff done to those cars


Same reason you dont marry a hooker. Some one else has played hard with it, beat it up and you think you got a deal cause it looks nice but then you pop the hood or look at the undercarriage and realize you got a lot of work to do.



Really makes me miss my 93 hard top. I was a little too much into F&F at the time but I kept the car gray. Stillen nose and nostrils (airbox) with an Ebiruni rear bumper and Wings West side skirts and the Stillen wing that looked a bit like the 96 turbo wing.
Just put new Tein coil-overs with remote, big sway bars, full polly and delrin bushings, big HRE wheels and on the way home from the shop a Z28 raced me. I could just hold in front and knew I could take the corner at 90 but he couldnt. Well i braked late and hard with my new GTR Brembos and he tagged me on the inside rear corner sending me into a spin and 8' up a power poles ground strap which spun me more and I landed sideways across both lanes of traffic on my wheels and rolled/spun on to the shoulder.
Body kit shot, $13000 in suspension damage, wheels all split in half, oil pan gushing...... was a shame.


----------



## SkizeR

what the ****kkk. did you have to pay for it?


----------



## SkizeR

also, note to everyone. just wrapped Quickaudi07's pillars with the allsport 4-way stretch vinyl.. that **** is like latex. soooo easy to work with an manipulate, and looks good


----------



## LaserSVT

SkizeR said:


> what the ****kkk. did you have to pay for it?


It was totaled. I had full coverage. The Z28 didnt stop. Nobody stopped.

I did see it in a newspaper ad about 7 months latter. Nose and rear bumpers were fixed. Some generic wheels and the side skirts were gone. It was my car though because it was Hawaii and there was only one grey hard top Z in the state. Only one that had a black Stillen nose and light gray rear bumper and wing as i hadnt had them painted yet. Guy tried to say he had it for years and it was never wrecked. I pointed out I was the one who wrecked it. he hung up. LOL




Now, pictures of the a-pillars!


----------



## RandyJ75

SkizeR said:


> also, note to everyone. just wrapped Quickaudi07's pillars with the allsport 4-way stretch vinyl.. that **** is like latex. soooo easy to work with an manipulate, and looks good


Pictures please.


----------



## SkizeR

ughhh that means i have to go down two flights of stairs, go into my car to get my camera (which i should probably do since its unlocked), take 4 pictures, and walk back up two flights of stairs. but i will most likely forget something on the way so i will probably have to walk up/down the stairs at least 6 times. this is a hard decision


----------



## deeppinkdiver

Damn man.. Horrible story about your car. Sorry to hear! Hope you were ok, obviously that doesnt bring the car back, but..


----------



## SkizeR

one reason why i put off the tt build. i didnt think i would be able to control myself when i have those urges lol


----------



## SkizeR

can t even get good pics right now since its so dark


----------



## LaserSVT

deeppinkdiver said:


> Damn man.. Horrible story about your car. Sorry to hear! Hope you were ok, obviously that doesnt bring the car back, but..


Not a scratch but that was like 15 years ago.

Do love me a Z32 though. Ditch the HICAS, suspension it up, pair of big turbos and a FMIC and they are quite the pocket rocket.


----------



## JSM-FA5

Dot really have time to read 50+ pages lol. But we just did a TT swap on a 300z where I work. So if you need any advice let me know. We did a JDM TT swap


----------



## SkizeR

JSM-FA5 said:


> Dot really have time to read 50+ pages lol. But we just did a TT swap on a 300z where I work. So if you need any advice let me know. We did a JDM TT swap


no need as most of it is just talking about nonsense lol. and i wont be doing a TT swap any time soon, if at all. i told myself "Audio, Body/looks, performance.. pick 2." performance was out since i couldnt fit all 3 within my budget. which makes sense, since why have a car thats loud enough to completely drown out the system i just dumped over 2 years of on/off time and a boat load of money into. maybe ill save up some money and get a second tt Z when the time is right and do a small system in there


----------



## MAIDEN69

Where are you buying the 4 way vinyl?


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Where are you buying the 4 way vinyl?


yourautotrim.com 

AllSport 4-WAY Stretch Vinyl


----------



## SkizeR

finished the wiring under the hood. techflex got a bit dirty. maybe white wasnt a great idea lol. took me so long to get this organized because there are no fuse holders that accept 4/0 wire. i would had to get one custom made. at work we picked up a bunch of tsunami 4 gauge amp kits on clearance and the fuse holder was so beefy i was able to drill it out to fit the 4/0


----------



## SkizeR

so this is why i havent had any progress all winter and very little during the spring. you guys should check it out 

https://vimeo.com/130598404


----------



## SkizeR

i did a thing today..


ignore the fact that the center console seems to not line up.. its just sitting there pulled out of the way so i could get the covers in


----------



## gckless

Awww sheeit. Lookin good.


----------



## SkizeR

if it doesnt rain today ill be making the cutout to show off the fused distrobution block, then (since these are just templates) getting the cuts transfered to 1/2" MDF, chamfering the cutouts, adding the plexiglass and LED's underneath, and getting everything secured and lined up to get ready to make the trim to tie it all in with the car. should be fun..


----------



## MAIDEN69

I noticed in another thread you mentioned you didn't like the Allsport 4way vinyl. Well, the look anyway. I took from your post above that you did like it. Can you clarify?


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> I noticed in another thread you mentioned you didn't like the Allsport 4way vinyl. Well, the look anyway. I took from your post above that you did like it. Can you clarify?


its workability is great, but its look isnt to my taste. well at least for my specific car. it has a very fine texture pattern and is a bit glossier than id like. the vinyl i had on my a pillars (that i ripped off since i used ****ty glue and need to redo them) was better looking, but also more expensive and a bit harder to work with. there should be a pic of them somewhere in this thread. if you do like the pattern and texture of the allsport, i have 4 yards of it that i would sell


----------



## SkizeR

SkizeR said:


>


this is the only decent pic i have of them where you can see the old vinyl. no gloss, great texture. i just dont know what the name of it is since it was scrap from work


----------



## SkizeR

cut was a bit off, but thats what templates are for 







tomorrow ill be picking up the suplies to finish up the rest of the rack covers and everything else to fab up the trim for them. should be fun


----------



## SkizeR

super duper highly advanced computer simulation rendering that takes pics and photoshops them to what they will look like in the future... any opinions?


----------



## SkizeR

oh, and ignore the distortion of the pic (why everything looks like its being bent and warped).. it was taken with a fisheye lens


----------



## Brian_smith06

that looks like a stinger distro but I am not familiar with the witchcraft that is behind it?

Also I dig the super high tech rendering. It's going to look goooood


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> *that looks like a stinger distro but I am not familiar with the witchcraft that is behind it?*
> 
> Also I dig the super high tech rendering. It's going to look goooood


i just had to explain to my boss why im laughing :laugh:. perfect wording.

it is the "internals" of the stinger distro, but mounted to an old Phoenix Gold ZBB34TI. i wanted to use the phoenix gold one but im not a fan of the agu fuses, so i swapped em for mini anl. turns out the stingers internals fit in there perfectly. i think theres pics of the process back when i first wired up my amp rack. i also wrapped the fuse blocks cover with a vinyl that perfectly matched the zapco amps color and finish almost perfectly. going to replace the phoenix gold printed plexi with a custom zapco one and thatll be lit up light alight with the amps. should be fun


----------



## Brian_smith06

I thought that had to be a custom piece. I have 2 of those in my install. one of the dual 1/0 inputs to dual 1/0 outs and the dual 1/0 in to 4 4 gauge outs and neither had the voodoo going on. I dig it though. Def a nice touch. 

Yours is making me miss my old tsunami distro. It had power and ground all in one as well as voltage/amperage meters. Ended up getting a loose screw and grounding out the 1/0 inputs and destroying the electronics inside leaving me with a loud obnoxious beep. Note to self, when using a distro with both power and ground put something in between so they don't anger the electrical gods.


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> I thought that had to be a custom piece. I have 2 of those in my install. one of the dual 1/0 inputs to dual 1/0 outs and the dual 1/0 in to 4 4 gauge outs and neither had the voodoo going on. I dig it though. Def a nice touch.
> 
> Yours is making me miss my old tsunami distro. It had power and ground all in one as well as voltage/amperage meters. Ended up getting a loose screw and grounding out the 1/0 inputs and destroying the electronics inside leaving me with a loud obnoxious beep. Note to self, when using a distro with both power and ground put something in between so they don't anger the electrical gods.


never **** with the electrical gods. im guessing the electrical gods consist of picachu, raichu, magneton, electrode, and zapdos. especially never **** with zapdos. that guy was one of my go-to's in pokemon stadium on N64 :laugh:


but yeah im trying to figure out how to take advantage to the witchcraft that you see. it has LED's that will show if the fuse is blown or not, and a volt meter. i never looked into it as i just got the piece of witchcraft from the "garbage" (aka old school treasures) bin at my old job. i will be looking into as soon as the amp rack is almost finished or when im done with everything since its not necessary.


----------



## Brian_smith06

SkizeR said:


> never **** with the electrical gods. im guessing the electrical gods consist of picachu, raichu, magneton, electrode, and zapdos. especially never **** with zapdos. that guy was one of my go-to's in pokemon stadium on N64 :laugh:
> 
> 
> but yeah im trying to figure out how to take advantage to the witchcraft that you see. it has LED's that will show if the fuse is blown or not, and a volt meter. i never looked into it as i just got the piece of witchcraft from the "garbage" (aka old school treasures) bin at my old job. i will be looking into as soon as the amp rack is almost finished or when im done with everything since its not necessary.


I loved Pokémon back in the day. That game was hella fun! I remember selling my Pokémon cards off to buy my Sega Dreamcast.

Good save on that. A lot of people don't realize what they have with that old school stuff. Wish I had one of those in my "garbage" bags o wire


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> I loved Pokémon back in the day. That game was hella fun! I remember selling my Pokémon cards off to buy my Sega Dreamcast.
> 
> Good save on that. A lot of people don't realize what they have with that old school stuff. Wish I had one of those in my "garbage" bags o wire


they also had a BNIB ppi art piece. i think it was a crossover or something. i forget exactly. but literally NEVER EVEN OPENED. they had TONS of phass stuff. i got a bnib 2 way 5.25" kit that was sitting there for years that i had to sell off for the boss. they still have some very nice older phass amps with nice wood inlays. i dont know the exact model number but theyre just sitting in the attic getting ruined by everything else thrown up there. theyve been there for about 8 years. theres a bnib elemental designs 6.5 inch sub, a brand new 10 inch phass sub. i also got a Phoenix gold DD5 that i will most likely be using for the fans and leds and whatnot. a few active crossovers, some bnib older rockford subs, so older Phoenix gold subs (the ones with the dry carbon cone), and a bunch of other goodies im sure im forgetting.


----------



## Brian_smith06

you are sitting on a goldmine! holy balls!

Whats up with that 10" phass sub? Not by choice but I have a jl stealthbox in my Tahoe and looking to upgrade the sub in the enclosure.

Hmm maybe I should just pm you on that one.

Build is cra cra though. Cant wait to see this get finished and what all you do


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> you are sitting on a goldmine! holy balls!


i just texted the manager at the shop to sell me those phass amps. i just put 2 and 2 together after remember buzzmans phass amp for sale thread (looks like phass amps are EXTREMELY expensive.) maybe he will cave this time. The thing is, the amps arent exactly anyones there. they belong(?) to a customer (i think i remember he said it was an older hip hop artist) that left them there about 8 years ago. i keep telling them hes not coming back for them, but they wouldnt listen. as far as the phass sub, they also wouldnt budge on that too.


----------



## Brian_smith06

at some point doesn't it just become the shops property?

My dad owns a tow lot and is able to apply for a title after 1 month of no contact. He never does though. Usually ends up crushing the cars a few years down the road. Last time he crushed cars he had 200 of them to do. It's very rare that we get anything worth keeping out there. He does have a trailblazer out there he got for the cost of towing it in though. Only needs a tire. Also an 01 Camaro that has nothing wrong with it other than some tacky exhaust.


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> at some point doesn't it just become the shops property?
> 
> My dad owns a tow lot and is able to apply for a title after 1 month of no contact. He never does though. Usually ends up crushing the cars a few years down the road. Last time he crushed cars he had 200 of them to do. It's very rare that we get anything worth keeping out there. He does have a trailblazer out there he got for the cost of towing it in though. Only needs a tire. Also an 01 Camaro that has nothing wrong with it other than some tacky exhaust.


i just texted him. he was very vague and just said "cant" lol


----------



## Brian_smith06

LAME!


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> LAME!


that was my exact answer too..


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> oh, and ignore the distortion of the pic (why everything looks like its being bent and warped).. it was taken with a fisheye lens


Fisheye Lens - Video Clip | Tosh.0 | Comedy Central


----------



## MAIDEN69

I'm using the PG distro block as well. I have two of them, one with the agu glass fuses and the other with the mini wafer type which is the one I'm using. Looks way better. Plus have the remote voltage display.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> I'm using the PG distro block as well. I have two of them, one with the agu glass fuses and the other with the mini wafer type which is the one I'm using. Looks way better. Plus have the remote voltage display.


can you use any voltage display? or do you have the model number


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Fisheye Lens - Video Clip | Tosh.0 | Comedy Central


yheahhh sooonnnn


----------



## MAIDEN69

SkizeR said:


> can you use any voltage display? or do you have the model number


Not sure. I have the matching unit so no clue if others will work. I was missing the cable and it uses the small little handset plugs. Only cable I could find like that were the curly-Q ones. I found a guy on ebay that sent me 2 different 20ft cables wired differently with those little handset plugs for a few bucks. One of them worked so was good to go.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Not sure. I have the matching unit so no clue if others will work. I was missing the cable and it uses the small little handset plugs. Only cable I could find like that were the curly-Q ones. I found a guy on ebay that sent me 2 different 20ft cables wired differently with those little handset plugs for a few bucks. One of them worked so was good to go.


gotcha. either way i can always just tap into the fuse for my own volt meter if i go that route


----------



## MAIDEN69

Pretty sure that phone wire is a simple two wire design. I'm sure you could splice something together to work with your own display. Keep the progress coming. 
Hopefully I will get back at mine!!! Been house hunting and that has been my focus so the car audio has been on hold. What I have not seen is your final hatch area design. Any pics? My system is in a C5 Vette so I too am working with a hatch area. The design in mine is far different just because of how and what I'm fitting in there, but love to see other designs to spark ideas for my own.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Pretty sure that phone wire is a simple two wire design. I'm sure you could splice something together to work with your own display. Keep the progress coming.
> Hopefully I will get back at mine!!! Been house hunting and that has been my focus so the car audio has been on hold. What I have not seen is your final hatch area design. Any pics? My system is in a C5 Vette so I too am working with a hatch area. The design in mine is far different just because of how and what I'm fitting in there, but love to see other designs to spark ideas for my own.


im still on the fence about what i want to do with the hatch. if you go back to who knows where in this thread you can see my original plays with the sealed boxes in each corner and amps facein each other vertically down the middle, but now im thinking of something else. and while i just typed that sentence i just realized that something else probably wont be possible due to the batteries in the tire well. **** :laugh: well maybe it can be possible if i do IB


----------



## SkizeR

and was just getting ready to go work on the amp rack, aaaaaaand its pouring


----------



## Brian_smith06

That's how it's been here too. I need to work on my pillars and any chance I have to do so it starts pouring. Which brings me to another problem I need to fix before the pillars which is a leak I have somewhere on the passenger side floor. I have discussed it on a Tahoe forum and know what to check just haven't had the time


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> That's how it's been here too. I need to work on my pillars and any chance I have to do so it starts pouring. Which brings me to another problem I need to fix before the pillars which is a leak I have somewhere on the passenger side floor. I have discussed it on a Tahoe forum and know what to check just haven't had the time


i actually have a leak too! i cant ever see it happening so i dont know where it is, but its always damp in the car after it rains. the pass side of the board that holds the amps actually got some water stains on it.


----------



## SkizeR

got some work done this weekend even with the rain. went to the lumber yard and grabbed a sheet of birch to to the final amp rack beauty panel with. i traced the template onto it, cut it, and chamfered the edges. i have to either re-do it, or fill in some spots with body filler due to my piece of **** portable router table. pics below. 

the setup for saturday






first i did a rough cut, then got it all perfect with a flush trim bit on the router







then did a slight chamfer. 









some of it came out decent..






and some of it came out like ****. i realized i should have not been lazy and just too the router off the table and done it by hand. oh well. i can either re-do it or fill it in and sand.








then today i was doing the same, but with the inserts that will go underneath the other beauty panel and have the same chamfered edges, just a slightly smaller cutout so you can just see the chamfer. 

had to beat the heat today..





used some scrap wood and some adhesive to use as a router template






and look what heppens when i dont take shortcuts.. pretty much flawless








then this happened. downpour from hell out of no where. so i cleaned up (and by clean up i mean threw everything in the garage in a mad dash) and called it a day and took a quick shower. of coarse when i got out of the shower its nice and sunny again -_____-


----------



## SkizeR

got some work done this weekend even with the rain. went to the lumber yard and grabbed a sheet of birch to to the final amp rack beauty panel with. i traced the template onto it, cut it, and chamfered the edges. i have to either re-do it, or fill in some spots with body filler due to my piece of **** portable router table. pics below. 

the setup for saturday






first i did a rough cut, then got it all perfect with a flush trim bit on the router







then did a slight chamfer. 









some of it came out decent..






and some of it came out like ****. i realized i should have not been lazy and just too the router off the table and done it by hand. oh well. i can either re-do it or fill it in and sand.








then today i was doing the same, but with the inserts that will go underneath the other beauty panel and have the same chamfered edges, just a slightly smaller cutout so you can just see the chamfer. 

had to beat the heat today..





used some scrap wood and some adhesive to use as a router template






and look what heppens when i dont take shortcuts.. pretty much flawless








then this happened. downpour from hell out of no where. so i cleaned up (and by clean up i mean threw everything in the garage in a mad dash) and called it a day and took a quick shower. of coarse when i got out of the shower its nice and sunny again -_____-


----------



## SkizeR

there is literally not a god damn cloud in the sky... kill me


----------



## High Resolution Audio

I like the idea of having the subs in sealed boxes angled inward. Will you be able to put the amps up high like you had in red so that you can have a little trunk space?


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> I like the idea of having the subs in sealed boxes angled inward. Will you be able to put the amps up high like you had in red so that you can have a little trunk space?


ehh im not worried about trunk space. just aesthetics and performance

im going to try to photoshop my other idea to give a general idea


----------



## High Resolution Audio

I'm a big fan of sealed boxes (acoustic suspension) , because I like clean tight bass.....so I would steer you in that direction, however I would like to see what you had in mind for an IB set up.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> I'm a big fan of sealed boxes (acoustic suspension) , because I like clean tight bass.....so I would steer you in that direction, however I would like to see what you had in mind for an IB set up.


making a flat sealed box along the bottom of the trunk, the subs are close together with the magnets possible in the spare tire well so the box could be as flat as possible, and then cut out part of the tire well and do some weather and road proofing. photoshopping now


----------



## SkizeR

my super advanced artificial rendering of my other idea..

the amps are on platforms raised above the subs


----------



## LaserSVT

Looks so real and lifelike! 


Keep up the good work man. I know its a long build but with what you have it should be listening nirvana when done.


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Here's an idea. Sealed box angled in subs in corners. Hide the sub amps under a flat section in the middle. Nice clean flat floor. Sub amps hidden underneath. Maybe a "Z" logo incorporated somehow on top the floor piece?


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Here's an idea. Sealed box angled in subs in corners. Hide the sub amps under a flat section in the middle. Nice clean flat floor. Sub amps hidden underneath. Maybe a "Z" logo incorporated somehow on top the floor piece?


that was the original plan, except there would be cutouts to show the amps, just like the other amp rack. im just not a fan of the look of the corner boxes


----------



## LaserSVT

Oh yeah, one thing I learned with my Z cars was that the best sounding position for the subs were rear fire. Tried it with Soundstream Exact 12s (first gens), PG Xmax 10s and Rockford Fosgate Audiophile 12s and every time the bass was much deeper and cleaner with a rear fire.
Just putting it out there.


----------



## SkizeR

LaserSVT said:


> Oh yeah, one thing I learned with my Z cars was that the best sounding position for the subs were rear fire. Tried it with Soundstream Exact 12s (first gens), PG Xmax 10s and Rockford Fosgate Audiophile 12s and every time the bass was much deeper and cleaner with a rear fire.
> Just putting it out there.


hmm.. maybe do my photoshopped idea but angle them facing towards the back a bit?


----------



## High Resolution Audio

You'll figure it out and it will be awesome.


----------



## LaserSVT

SkizeR said:


> hmm.. maybe do my photoshopped idea but angle them facing towards the back a bit?


Yeah. The best output was the box I made for the Exacts with 45* angle sealed box.


EDIT: Just remembered it was not the Exacts I had in that car, it was Boston Pro 12s from the mid 90's.


----------



## High Resolution Audio

LaserSVT said:


> Yeah. The best output was the box I made for the Exacts with 45* angle sealed box.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just remembered it was not the Exacts I had in that car, it was Boston Pro 12s from the mid 90's.


Were those the paper cone with ridges Boston Pro 12's first generation? Or the second version with the smooth surface? (I'm running the first generation 12's now.


----------



## LaserSVT

First gen with the ridges. Was a big box too. I think 2.3 per driver.


----------



## SkizeR

before i go post another thread on it, maybe someone has suggestions for a security camera system for my driveway. been thinking about getting one since all of my gear is starting to actually go in the car. my area is known for people breaking into cars and on top of that, people have an idea of what i have. also had some pretty extreme threats from a psychotic ex that i cant chance as a bluff, especially since the car doesnt have insurance yet (since its not on the road).


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Yes, do not go with the cheap BJ's or Costco set ups. My cousin did and had me install it at his mini storage building. The system worked great for about 2-3 months and the DVR unit just stopped working. 

Another electrician friend of mine sells and installs Honeywell brand and thats what he put on his own house. Clear, detailed, color shots of his whole property could be seen from his smart phone. I would go with the Honeywell system if it were me. Very reliable too!


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Yes, do not go with the cheap BJ's or Costco set ups. My cousin did and had me install it at his mini storage building. The system worked great for about 2-3 months and the DVR unit just stopped working.
> 
> Another electrician friend of mine sells and installs Honeywell brand and thats what he put on his own house. Clear, detailed, color shots of his whole property could be seen from his smart phone. I would go with the Honeywell system if it were me. Very reliable too!


thanks for the info. i was thinking about getting something that has night vision but that generally means no color. maybe i can do two cameras, one for day and one for night


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Those cameras have built in night vision. Infared LED's that light up at night. Can't be seen with the naked eye. At night you will have to suffer with B&W, i believe.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Those cameras have built in night vision. Infared LED's that light up at night. Can't be seen with the naked eye. At night you will have to suffer with B&W, i believe.


oh so there are security cameras that do color by day and IR at night? i have actually been using my panasonic hcx1000, which has night vision and an IR light (not a very strong one, but better than nothing) to film over night (like i said, i cant chance calling this womans bluff) :laugh:


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Yes the Honeywells do Color by day and IR Black and white at night. They even make High Def. models.


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Here is the link to the honeywell cameras:
Performance Series High Quality Analog


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Yes the Honeywells do Color by day and IR Black and white at night. They even make High Def. models.


i see one kit on B&H for 800, but thats with 4 cameras. i was thinking of maybe 2 cameras.


----------



## High Resolution Audio

You should be able to buy everything A la Cart


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> You should be able to buy everything A la Cart


not really finding it anywhere. ill look tomorrow at work. thanks for the suggestion though


----------



## High Resolution Audio

You can buy the DVR separate and what ever cameras you want separate at B&H.


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> before i go post another thread on it, maybe someone has suggestions for a security camera system for my driveway. been thinking about getting one since all of my gear is starting to actually go in the car. my area is known for people breaking into cars and on top of that, people have an idea of what i have. also had some pretty extreme threats from a psychotic ex that i cant chance as a bluff, especially since the car doesnt have insurance yet (since its not on the road).


I would personally go with a Synology NAS. I know you take a lot of photos, I believe I remember you doing some Snow Boarding videos as well, but a NAS would be Multi-Use. But it depends on your budget.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> I would personally go with a Synology NAS. I know you take a lot of photos, I believe I remember you doing some Snow Boarding videos as well, but a NAS would be Multi-Use. But it depends on your budget.


My storage drive is a nas type. I'm not really sure what it is though. And year, I have over a terabyte of footage from this winter

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## DLO13

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjX_GnB7oGs


----------



## SkizeR

But I'm just not sure what thatll do for a security camera system lol. I guess act as a dvr?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Ahh, now I see lol

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## nadams5755

SkizeR said:


> especially since the car doesnt have insurance yet (since its not on the road).


You can get parking insurance with riders for your modifications (since most insurance covers a limited amount of modifications). Or get the whole car insured for a dollar amount.


----------



## SkizeR

nadams5755 said:


> You can get parking insurance with riders for your modifications (since most insurance covers a limited amount of modifications). Or get the whole car insured for a dollar amount.


when i do put it on the road, i was going to insure everything in it. but the car wont touch road maybe until the very end of summer if im lucky. maybe not even until next spring. no point in getting insurance on it yet, although im not sure what parking insurance is


----------



## rton20s

Pelco (Schneider Electric) is local to me and also builds some very nice equipment. We spec it quite often for our school projects. They might be worth looking into.


----------



## DLO13

SkizeR said:


> Ahh, now I see lol
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


It wouldn't surprise me if it became your favorite piece of technology.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> It wouldn't surprise me if it because your favorite piece of technology.


but can it also be used as storage? like for photos, video, music, etc? it is pretty pricey though. i was thinking about maybe spending 3-4 hundred on a security camera or two and a dvr, but if i can also use this for other stuff on my computer im game. i used up a whole 3tb hard drive in like 4 months


----------



## DLO13

Definition of:NAS (1) See network access server. (2) (Network Attached Storage) A file server that connects to the network. A NAS device contains a slimmed-down operating system and file system...

A NAS is primarily a storage device. Depending on what you went with, you could have over 30TB of storage, and it would be backed up, secure, and easy for you to access from any device anywhere. 

I am sure you recommend to people to do some research on their own when they buy things for their car, I HIGHLY recommend you do the same for this. 

It is an amazing device, with the potential to do many many things. There are a few guys here that I know that have them and actually one of them uses the security camera feature. 

It is a big investment, but it can grow with you and do many things. Do some research and let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## SkizeR

DLO13 said:


> Definition of:NAS (1) See network access server. (2) (Network Attached Storage) A file server that connects to the network. A NAS device contains a slimmed-down operating system and file system...
> 
> A NAS is primarily a storage device. Depending on what you went with, you could have over 30TB of storage, and it would be backed up, secure, and easy for you to access from any device anywhere.
> 
> I am sure you recommend to people to do some research on their own when they buy things for their car, I HIGHLY recommend you do the same for this.
> 
> It is an amazing device, with the potential to do many many things. There are a few guys here that I know that have them and actually one of them uses the security camera feature.
> 
> It is a big investment, but it can grow with you and do many things. Do some research and let me know if you have any questions.


but what else can i do with it? all i would really need it for is storage would all of this really be needed for that?


----------



## sienna12

DS-2CD2432F-IW - Cube - Hikvision USA, Inc.

Install microSD card, built in motion detection, has a sensor detects ppl and not moving objects so less false alarms, and built in DVR. Wireless and support PoE also. (has a bunch more)


----------



## SkizeR

sienna12 said:


> DS-2CD2432F-IW - Cube - Hikvision USA, Inc.
> 
> Install microSD card, built in motion detection, has a sensor detects ppl and not moving objects so less false alarms, and built in DVR. Wireless and support PoE also. (has a bunch more)


seems like its meant for indoors :/


----------



## sienna12

How about this one?

» Hikvision DS-2CD2532F-I 3MP Outdoor IR Mini Dome Review Network Camera Critic

DS-2CD2532F-I(W)(S) - Fixed Focal - Hikvision USA, Inc.


----------



## SkizeR

sienna12 said:


> How about this one?
> 
> » Hikvision DS-2CD2532F-I 3MP Outdoor IR Mini Dome Review Network Camera Critic
> 
> DS-2CD2532F-I(W)(S) - Fixed Focal - Hikvision USA, Inc.


this looks like a solid option


----------



## SkizeR

great.. just got my system going again to test new tweeter locations and theres a very strange and kinda loud noise coming from all speakers. its there even with the head unit off. **** my life.


----------



## SkizeR

on that note though, i may upload a little run through of how i made new and smaller reverse mount baffles for my tweeters


----------



## Babs

SkizeR said:


> great.. just got my system going again to test new tweeter locations and theres a very strange and kinda loud noise coming from all speakers. its there even with the head unit off. **** my life.



Is that amp oscillation?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Babs said:


> Is that amp oscillation?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


i dont even know what that is lol


----------



## nadams5755

SkizeR said:


> when i do put it on the road, i was going to insure everything in it. but the car wont touch road maybe until the very end of summer if im lucky. maybe not even until next spring. no point in getting insurance on it yet, although im not sure what parking insurance is


it's called "parked car insurance", "storage insurance" or just having a comprehensive policy (without liability or collision, since you have no intention of driving it).


----------



## SkizeR

nadams5755 said:


> it's called "parked car insurance", "storage insurance" or just having a comprehensive policy (without liability or collision, since you have no intention of driving it).


how much does that usually go for?


----------



## nadams5755

SkizeR said:


> how much does that usually go for?


i don't know. i'm not fancy enough to have project cars (or a driveway)


----------



## SkizeR

nadams5755 said:


> i don't know. i'm not fancy enough to have project cars (or a driveway)


2 years ago i didnt know i was fancy enough for a project car either lol. i still cant believe i thought i would finish this build in two months. but then again, i wasnt going to do as intricate of an install at the time


----------



## one4waves

Sub'ed. Lookin' good!


----------



## SkizeR

one4waves said:


> Sub'ed. Lookin' good!


thanks. where in NY are you located?


----------



## SkizeR

oh, and for anyone else with zapco dc amps, dont run your daisy chain cables with power wires. that was the cause of the nosie


----------



## gckless

Have you determined the final position for everything in the back? I have a couple ideas if not.

Where in NY are you? I'm from Buffalo, don't make it home too often but I'll probably be taking a trip next year sometime.


----------



## Brian_smith06

SkizeR said:


> oh, and for anyone else with zapco dc amps, dont run your daisy chain cables with power wires. that was the cause of the nosie


glad you figured it out! been leaning towards some of these since they seem to be going so damn cheap on ebay lately. really want a 1000.4 and just like a 500.1 for sub. then again 1100.1 would be symmetrical and we all love headroom


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Have you determined the final position for everything in the back? I have a couple ideas if not.
> 
> Where in NY are you? I'm from Buffalo, don't make it home too often but I'll probably be taking a trip next year sometime.


30 miles north of NYC. if anyone ever goes to nyc let me know

and no i didnt finalize anything. what did you have in mind


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> glad you figured it out! been leaning towards some of these since they seem to be going so damn cheap on ebay lately. really want a 1000.4 and just like a 500.1 for sub. then again 1100.1 would be symmetrical and we all love headroom


from 718electronics? yeah thats who i get mine from. he has a shop like 40 mins away from me so i just go pick them up in person if i need any. i already have 8 of the dc amps but amp looking for more lol


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> 30 miles north of NYC. if anyone ever goes to nyc let me know
> 
> and no i didnt finalize anything. what did you have in mind


I'll have to send you some pictures or terrible sketches when I get home. I tried starting to explain it by just typing it out but it was just incoherent lol. I don't really know how much space you have though. Do you have enough height to completely rear-fire the subs? I know you mentioned you could tilt them, could you go vertical or don't have enough room? Also, they're sealed right?


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> I'll have to send you some pictures or terrible sketches when I get home. I tried starting to explain it by just typing it out but it was just incoherent lol. I don't really know how much space you have though. Do you have enough height to completely rear-fire the subs? I know you mentioned you could tilt them, could you go vertical or don't have enough room? Also, they're sealed right?


just type it up. lets hear it lol. and nothing is made yet. i also might relocate or ditch the rear batteries entirely.


----------



## Brian_smith06

SkizeR said:


> just type it up. lets hear it lol. and nothing is made yet. i also might relocate or ditch the rear batteries entirely.


add a second gas tank lid to the opposite side of the car to hook up to a power supply. that would def be custom


also yeah that would be the dude on ebay. I wish I had somebody close to me like that. Everybody in my area wants a premium for anything worthwhile


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> add a second gas tank lid to the opposite side of the car to hook up to a power supply. that would def be custom
> 
> 
> also yeah that would be the dude on ebay. I wish I had somebody close to me like that. Everybody in my area wants a premium for anything worthwhile


thats the only good stuff he has. the rest is typical stuff people in the bronx want. super tweeters, lanzar amps, ****ty pro audio drivers. LED lights. etc. im pretty sure hes almost out of them though


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> just type it up. lets hear it lol. and nothing is made yet. i also might relocate or ditch the rear batteries entirely.


Well I was thinking an amp rack with the amps horizontal placed side-by-side behind your current one, but flush with the top. The sub box could either be underneath it or behind it facing rearward. Not sure why people are so afraid to mount to a sub box, just brace it well. I've seen a few amp racks that vibrated more than the sub boxes. This is the closest image I could find to what I have in my head:










Or what about the subs not next to each other, but in a line, and the amps next to them. Looking from top facing forward it would be like this (the 8 is the two subs):
|8|
Could angle the amps up to window line or wherever.


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Well I was thinking an amp rack with the amps horizontal placed side-by-side behind your current one, but flush with the top. The sub box could either be underneath it or behind it facing rearward. Not sure why people are so afraid to mount to a sub box, just brace it well. I've seen a few amp racks that vibrated more than the sub boxes. This is the closest image I could find to what I have in my head:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or what about the subs not next to each other, but in a line, and the amps next to them. Looking from top facing forward it would be like this (the 8 is the two subs):
> |8|
> Could angle the amps up to window line or wherever.


im not so sure about the first idea. the hatch area is much smaller than you may think.i like your second idea, but i doubt they would fit. theres exactly 24 inches from the rear "wall" to the front of the hatch. so i think i may do the subs horizontal, but the amps like how you mentioned, but suspended over the subs on a platform. if i ditch the batteries, or just use the slim one i got from work, i think it can look really good. well good for how much space i have


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> im not so sure about the first idea. the hatch area is much smaller than you may think.i like your second idea, but i doubt they would fit. theres exactly 24 inches from the rear "wall" to the front of the hatch. so i think i may do the subs horizontal, but the amps like how you mentioned, but suspended over the subs on a platform. if i ditch the batteries, or just use the slim one i got from work, i think it can look really good. well good for how much space i have


I seen the mock up you posted a couple pages back like that. I think instead of a floating rack like you had, if you angled them starting from the sub baffle it would look better. If you had enough room to the sides to do that. Not sure if you're going to glass or not, but you could do one big piece for that and it would look really good.

Or what about the amps in a rack, side to side but inline, and then the subs on each side in those cubby hole spaces. Could even angle them in towards the middle. Kinda like this:
.=
0 0


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> I seen the mock up you posted a couple pages back like that. I think instead of a floating rack like you had, if you angled them starting from the sub baffle it would look better. If you had enough room to the sides to do that. Not sure if you're going to glass or not, but you could do one big piece for that and it would look really good.
> 
> Or what about the amps in a rack, side to side but inline, and then the subs on each side in those cubby hole spaces. Could even angle them in towards the middle. Kinda like this:
> .=
> 0 0


yeah maybe those sketches might be a good idea lol. what what do you mean angled starting form the baffle? and yeah ill be glassing whatever i have to


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> yeah maybe those sketches might be a good idea lol. what what do you mean angled starting form the baffle? and yeah ill be glassing whatever i have to


I mean like if looking from the back it would be like this: \__/
Instead of this like your picture: --__--


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> I mean like if looking from the back it would be like this: \__/
> Instead of this like your picture: --__--


no room to be angled. the amps are literally just as long as the space and if i angled them a bit, the corners wouldnt fit unless i angled them a lot. and my second idea it would look like this |DⱭ| (subs partially under amp)


----------



## gckless

Or what about a rack over the center of the subs. Amps would be side by side. Like this looking down:

0 0


Edit: apparently you can't strike-through with BB code here? Just imagine those 0's are the subs and they are struck through lol.


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Or what about a rack over the center of the subs. Amps would be side by side. Like this looking down:
> 
> [strike]0 0[/strike]
> 
> 
> Edit: apparently you can't strike-through with BB code here? Just imagine those 0's are the subs and they are struck through lol.


like a vertical line through the subs? as in the amps are vertical directly over the subs?


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> like a vertical line through the subs? as in the amps are vertical directly over the subs?


Sorry, they would be horizontal. Just like your sketch, but turn them. Now that I think about it though they would probably almost completely cover the subs. As long as you raised them a couple inches that shouldn't matter though. Actually, now that I think about it some more, that might be good in fact because it might act as a loading wall for the subs.


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Sorry, they would be horizontal. Just like your sketch, but turn them. Now that I think about it though they would probably almost completely cover the subs. As long as you raised them a couple inches that shouldn't matter though. Actually, now that I think about it some more, that might be good in fact because it might act as a loading wall for the subs.


Well i was planning on showing of part of the subs


----------



## SkizeR

now that i think about it, if i do ditch the batteries, i wont need the amps on a platform. i can make a glass mold of the tire well, and attach it to a piece of wood thats a cutout of the whole floor, nad even do a ported enclosure, then mount the amps on that (i have successfully mounted amps on boxes before multiple times without issues for years) and make a trim piece. or ****, put the damn batteries IN THE BOX if i truly need them


----------



## one4waves

SkizeR said:


> thanks. where in NY are you located?


Woodbury


----------



## SkizeR

one4waves said:


> Woodbury


as in the woodbury commons? if so, i live 15 mins from you


----------



## SkizeR

todays work..

finished the amp rack beauty panel minus the lit up plexiglass that will go underneath the white inserts. it looks plain and simple, but i think it still looks good.


wrapping in 4 way stretch all sport vinyl. they should just call this stuff latex.. when you heat it up to its limit, it literally stretches like a rubber band.





the texture that im not the biggest fan of, but its not to bad and is the easiest to work with and readily available, so i stuck with it





i also noticed in pics that it doesnt look as glossy as it does in person






i forgot to take pics of wrapping the inserts, and attaching them. oh well. here it is test fit. mind you these pics are just test fit. it may be a bit crooked, and raised up a bit. it was just to see how it looked.









dont mind the dust on the amps. its just left over adhesive from painters tape.









i also started cutting out the plexiglass for the led's





that was it for the day. i guess tomorrow ill be doing the led's and then start planning out the trunk. for the trunk i think im going to either ditch the batteries, or if i go IB through the tire well, i will mount them in the tire well. then just have the two subs side by side, then the amps over them


----------



## SkizeR

well it was raining pretty good today so all i was able to get done was the amp racks led's..













couldnt get it installed because of the rain. ill get pics of that tomorrow


----------



## MAIDEN69

Looks good. I see what you mean about the texture of the 4way. But still looks clean. Wish they made a leather or suede that stretched like that!!! I want to wrap in those two but don't think I will be able to due to curves and such.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Looks good. I see what you mean about the texture of the 4way. But still looks clean. Wish they made a leather or suede that stretched like that!!! I want to wrap in those two but don't think I will be able to due to curves and such.


well suede can stretch a bit, leather kind of can too if you steam it or split it, or both. either way, vinyl is fake leather. almost no point of going with leather over vinyl unless its to match the factory leather.


----------



## LaserSVT

https://sometimesigetangry.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/****_yea_in_hd_by_crusierpl_re_sharenator_is_growing-s900x773-120811.png


----------



## SkizeR

lol i had that exact feeling


----------



## SkizeR

just gotta make the zapco logo on a piece of plexi and were in business..







also i took some measurements today and ill be going with the subs in the center, sitting horizontally from eachother in a spare tire well box. kinda hard to explain what i want to do with the amps, but they will essentially be mounted on the box, one on each side of the trunk. AND i can keep a battery, just not one of my xs power ones :/

ignore the dust. just from fiberglassing


----------



## SkizeR

Going through with the false floor box. Any objections? Lol



Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## High Resolution Audio

SkizeR said:


> Going through with the false floor box. Any objections? Lol
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


Looks like I should have bought more stock in the painter's tape company.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Looks like I should have bought more stock in the painter's tape company.


it was about 2/3rds of a roll lol.


----------



## gckless

The amp board looks awesome. You decide on final placement in the trunk?


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> The amp board looks awesome. You decide on final placement in the trunk?


thanks. thats just the beauty panel though. i still have to make the side and top trim pieces. and the piece that will somehow seamlessly integrate it with the center console. not sure how the hell im gunna do that lol. but thank you. it means a lot. i think this panel is the reason for the first time my mother actually complimented this car lol

and yes. in a tire well enclosure thats slightly raises the floor, side by side with amps on each side over the subs.


----------



## SQLnovice

Man, thats some serious fab work. Can I drop my car off?


----------



## SkizeR

SQLnovice said:


> Man, thats some serious fab work. Can I drop my car off?


no.. lol :laugh: i have this, and 3 other installs im about to dive into right now. no time for more. thanks though. seeing this in actually gives me hope that i will eventually finish this thing


----------



## SkizeR

also it wasnt as hard as i thought it would be with the limited tools i had. the only thing is, i wasnt able to get it 100% perfect. i made everything you see with only a jigsaw (a broken one at that), and an extremely ****ty and also broken router along with a uneven topped portable (never use these things. i cant explain how awful they are) router table. there two other previous attempts were epic fails. that being because i seriously over complicated and over though every step of the way. i decided to take a break from the piece for a while, then went back to it. called up a trusty friend to get rid of my brain fart. i knew it was simple, but for some reason i have issues figuring out my own problems, but when it comes to others, i can always see the solution right away. i cant really explain it. its like my mind goes blank when i run into a problem myself. so i called him up and he gave me the most obvious words of advice for the piece, and wallah. whole piece was done a few days later. Thanks again Pete, if you ever see this.


----------



## gckless

SkizeR said:


> thanks. thats just the beauty panel though. i still have to make the side and top trim pieces. and the piece that will somehow seamlessly integrate it with the center console. not sure how the hell im gunna do that lol. but thank you. it means a lot. i think this panel is the reason for the first time my mother actually complimented this car lol
> 
> and yes. in a tire well enclosure thats slightly raises the floor, side by side with amps on each side over the subs.


Without seeing more, I think the best thing is probably just a tunnel like you already have cut out. I would flare each top corner a little to make the top look like a Y instead of a T, but that's just me. Gonna be a bunch of glass work no matter what you do I think though.


----------



## SkizeR

gckless said:


> Without seeing more, I think the best thing is probably just a tunnel like you already have cut out. I would flare each top corner a little to make the top look like a Y instead of a T, but that's just me. Gonna be a bunch of glass work no matter what you do I think though.


mostly wood. the only glassing will be to get perfect fit of the edges of the wood to the edges of the interior


----------



## SkizeR

laid down some glass today. trunk build have officially started. no pics of that yet though. but, heres a teaser of the amp rack with the led's. ignore the dust and smudges from the painters tape on the amp


----------



## High Resolution Audio

You would be proud. I bought and installed a Zapco Product. Made my system sound so good, I was up till 1:00 AM just listening to music.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> You would be proud. I bought and installed a Zapco Product. Made my system sound so good, I was up till 1:00 AM just listening to music.


made your system sound good? you sure it was the amp? im starting the planning, and acquiring of needed equipment now for the blind amp test i have planned. should be interesting. which model did you install though?


----------



## High Resolution Audio

SkizeR said:


> made your system sound good? you sure it was the amp? im starting the planning, and acquiring of needed equipment now for the blind amp test i have planned. should be interesting. which model did you install though?


It wasn't an amp it was a crossover network. There's a pic of it on my build log. 

A Blind amp test? That sounds cool. What kind of equipment are you looking for?


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> It wasn't an amp it was a crossover network. There's a pic of it on my build log.
> 
> A Blind amp test? That sounds cool. What kind of equipment are you looking for?


a wide variety, but not to much, because then it just gets to overwhelming. just enough to show if there is a difference in sound from amps or not, and if so, is it distinguishable enough to matter in a car. that being said, ill split it up into 4 or 5 "groups. get one amp thats absolute dog ****. most likely pyle since i can get them from work (yes, unfortunately i have to deal with pyle at work lol). a "budget" class. something like maxsonics amps or preferably the ppi phantoms that everyone likes. then the higher but still far from the "best". stuff like alpine PDX, arc xdi, JL hd, phoenix gold titanium, zapco DC (i got that covered obviously lol). Then a higher class. stuff like zapcos top line, mosconi, genesis, mcintosh, tru tech etc. then hopefully at least one "holy grail" like a brax. going to do a blind test that will have immediate switching so theres no "i dont remember what the other one sounds like", and a frequency response, and whatever else i can get out of it via hooking it up to a sound card to get measurements. if anyone reading this would like to help, please let me know


----------



## WhereAmEye?

I have a pdx f6 you can borrow for a while. Not too long though, I need my music


----------



## SkizeR

WhereAmEye? said:


> I have a pdx f6 you can borrow for a while. Not too long though, I need my music


yeah dont we all lol. maybe i can buy a few cheaper amps to do a temporary trade with for people who have them installed. i really cant do this out of pocket all by myself though. i mean, who has the pockets to with a lineup im looking for. just having a mcintosh, sinfoni, or especially brax for this test will make me extremely happy. because if there is a difference, i really want to hear it and these amps will be the ones to do it

oh, and i ESPECIALLY want one of these magic linear power amps that some people have been praising on facebook without anything to back up their claims.


----------



## WhereAmEye?

SkizeR said:


> yeah dont we all lol. maybe i can buy a few cheaper amps to do a temporary trade with for people who have them installed. i really cant do this out of pocket all by myself though. i mean, who has the pockets to with a lineup im looking for. just having a mcintosh, sinfoni, or especially brax for this test will make me extremely happy. because if there is a difference, i really want to hear it and these amps will be the ones to do it
> 
> oh, and i ESPECIALLY want one of these magic linear power amps that some people have been praising on facebook without anything to back up their claims.


Careful with that, if your test goes bad then the people you temp traded with might like the cheap amps better haha

Edit: you'd be the winner in that situation though. Never mind lol.


----------



## SkizeR

WhereAmEye? said:


> Careful with that, if your test goes bad then the people you temp traded with might like the cheap amps better haha
> 
> Edit: you'd be the winner in that situation though. Never mind lol.


:laugh::laugh: who knows when ill do this though. i have very little time in my schedule. itll have to be before winter. thats what caused my original plans with it to fall through


----------



## rton20s

With all of the fawning over Sinfoni lately, if your blind test ever happens, it would be awesome to have one in there. And I agree, we would need to see Linear Power in there as well with all of the recent FB hype.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> With all of the fawning over Sinfoni lately, if your blind test ever happens, it would be awesome to have one in there. And I agree, we would need to see Linear Power in there as well with all of the recent FB hype.


oh man i know you have seen it. the owner is an absolute crack pot. him and his linear power team member came into the facebook group spewing out how their 6.5" mids will play flat to 20hz with authority, BUT only with linear power amps... like really? the **** out of here. i think i have a few screenshots of some of the claimed stuff on my computer at home.


----------



## TheAlchemist9

Wow, very nice build here.


----------



## SkizeR

EcoHawk said:


> Wow, very nice build here.


thanks


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> oh man i know you have seen it. the owner is an absolute crack pot. him and his linear power team member came into the facebook group spewing out how their 6.5" mids will play flat to 20hz with authority, BUT only with linear power amps... like really? the **** out of here. i think i have a few screenshots of some of the claimed stuff on my computer at home.


Yeah, I have seen it. Including the 20 Hz thing. I've also really enjoyed the latest DD "German" component stuff. Always something to keep the FB groups interesting.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Yeah, I have seen it. Including the 20 Hz thing. I've also really enjoyed the latest DD "German" component stuff. Always something to keep the FB groups interesting.


what was said about those?


----------



## rton20s

Oops... I "misremembered"









It was the AD components that certain people were claiming as the best thing since sliced bread. Outperforming both Focal and HAT "on the sound board." I saw your replies.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Oops... I "misremembered"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the AD components that certain people were claiming as the best thing since sliced bread. Outperforming both Focal and HAT "on the sound board." I saw your replies.


Oh man I've wanted to give that guy the boot for so long but he doesn't really do anything wrong. The ad designs cult (formerly pwk cult) is almost as bad as the linear power one. You just don't hear much about it in the sq circle

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> Oh man I've wanted to give that guy the boot for so long but he doesn't really do anything wrong. The ad designs cult (formerly pwk cult) is almost as bad as the linear power one. You just don't hear much about it in the sq circle
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


Why do you think I recalled it as the component being from DD? You can track it all back to PWK and ol' Steve's associations.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Why do you think I recalled it as the component being from DD? You can track it all back to PWK and ol' Steve's associations.


steve was the pwk group mod right? and an AD rep?


----------



## High Resolution Audio

rton20s said:


> Yeah, I have seen it. Including the 20 Hz thing. I've also really enjoyed the latest DD "German" component stuff. Always something to keep the FB groups interesting.


Sorry to derail Skize's build, but could you please tell me some of the FB groups that are dedicated to SQ car audio?


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Sorry to derail Skize's build, but could you please tell me some of the FB groups that are dedicated to SQ car audio?


https://www.facebook.com/groups/strictlysoundquality/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/SQClassifieds/


----------



## SkizeR

off to get as much glass work done before it starts raining this weekend


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Thanks a bunch! Boy you are dedicated to getting that project completed. You have the nice weather and some of the longest days of the year regarding sun-light. Good luck glassing.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> Thanks a bunch! Boy you are dedicated to getting that project completed. You have the nice weather and some of the longest days of the year regarding sun-light. Good luck glassing.


just put the morels in a prefab box to try them out. just hopping on here quick to refresh my memory on how to turn the subs back on from the p99. whoo!


----------



## SkizeR

got one playing right now. looking for y adapters to get the other one going. the single one sounds good, but certainly not loud enough for me


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Awesome, I'm glad you got one going. It must be gratifying. One female - two male adapter is harder to find. I've got a pile of both. You just have to drive to the Cape to pick it up. lol


----------



## SkizeR

well about two years ago i bought a whole box full of ixos rca cables and adapters. of coarse i cant find any of them now..


----------



## High Resolution Audio

It's in the garage, where you found the morel grills by accident.


----------



## SkizeR

High Resolution Audio said:


> It's in the garage, where you found the morel grills by accident.


wait..


----------



## SkizeR

i actually remember them being there now that you mention it, but they werent. either way, i just remembered i had a symbilink y adapter. turns out 2 ultimos are just a tad bit to tame for me, so they are up for sale. literally 3 songs played on them. not a single mark from mounting. i bet if you searched you wouldnt be able to find anything that would indicate it even left the box. $550 each or $1000 for the pair


----------



## SkizeR

turns out i had the gain on one of the subs pretty much off... wow. epic fail.


----------



## thehatedguy

So you keeping them or selling them after discovering that?


----------



## SkizeR

thehatedguy said:


> So you keeping them or selling them after discovering that?


theyre just on the verge of loud enough, but i will sell them if someone wants them.


----------



## quality_sound

I'd wait until you get them tuned before you decide.


----------



## one4waves

You were testing them in the vehicle, no?


----------



## SkizeR

quality_sound said:


> I'd wait until you get them tuned before you decide.


That's what I'm doing. I might just get the illusion subs first to compare side by side

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

one4waves said:


> You were testing them in the vehicle, no?


Yes

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

todays setting..













i will measure volume tomorrow, and that will dictate whether or not i stay sealed or turn in into an IB setup


----------



## MAIDEN69

Are you only using the blue painters tape as the prep for glassing? Curious. I'm planning to do the subs in my car soon and will be going over my actual carpeted panels. Not sure how I'm gonna cover them for glassing. Last time I used tape then foil over that. Wiped the foil with carnuba paste wax. It worked but the foil was a ***** to pick off. Looking for a clean method.


----------



## SkizeR

MAIDEN69 said:


> Are you only using the blue painters tape as the prep for glassing? Curious. I'm planning to do the subs in my car soon and will be going over my actual carpeted panels. Not sure how I'm gonna cover them for glassing. Last time I used tape then foil over that. Wiped the foil with carnuba paste wax. It worked but the foil was a ***** to pick off. Looking for a clean method.


Couple layers of tape and mold release wax

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> steve was the pwk group mod right? and an AD rep?


I believe he was a mod. He used to work at DD and is now at AD from what I understand.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> I believe he was a mod. He used to work at DD and is now at AD from what I understand.


steve milton i think? guy was a kook


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> steve milton i think? guy was a kook


Yes, he is/was still in PWK's youtube videos.


----------



## SkizeR

did my first upgrade to my daily car. modified scan r3004 tweeters to fit the factory locations in the a pillars.

little ugly underneath, but that obviously wont be visible so im not too concerned


----------



## edouble101

That's tweets look nice and snug in there


----------



## SkizeR

edouble101 said:


> That's tweets look nice and snug in there


tucked it by an assload of hot glue not shown lol (well not all of what i used)


----------



## strakele

I had been kicking around the idea of doing that with a pair of Scans as well. How hard was it to remove the flange?


----------



## SkizeR

strakele said:


> I had been kicking around the idea of doing that with a pair of Scans as well. How hard was it to remove the flange?


Not to hard. You just won't really be able to put them back. The bottom side of the flange gets cracked really easily. It's just tedious and nerve racking. If u want I can try to get pictures to show what I did

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## strakele

If it's not too much trouble I'd be interested to see. Scan tweets are awesome but with the flange... just too big to fit.


----------



## bigbubba

Is hot glue the only thing holding the tweeter in? I used it on a trim piece and when it got hot outside it just fell off.


----------



## SkizeR

bigbubba said:


> Is hot glue the only thing holding the tweeter in? I used it on a trim piece and when it got hot outside it just fell off.


Hot glue mostly. It's been fine so far. There's also a few dabs of ca glue. Greyson, I will take some photos or even a video of doing it with the d3004. Same thing

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## MAIDEN69

I like using 100% clear silicone. It holds like crazy and can still be removed rather easy if need be. The ca glue to hold it in place and then the silicone til it dries. Goin' nowhere. lol


----------



## SkizeR

that moment when you ****ing nail time alignment..


----------



## High Resolution Audio

Time alignment makes a great sounding system sound incredible!


----------



## SkizeR

also, heres the pics on how i got the flanges off the r3004/d3004 tweeters (with the help of erin). i used a blown set of d3004 to get pics of how i did it. these are what i first practiced on to see how it would all go down

step 1) steal it back from the serpent that you leave to guard your audio possessions






step 2) tools.. 90 degree pick tool, and a smaller flat head screw driver (one that tapers out slowly is better)









step 3) break them.. well, most likely lol. theyre held on by little "folds" and creases in the housing and faceplate. i cant explain, but you should see. you gotta find the little gaps and just squeeze your pick tool in there and start wiggling away. in some spots you may be able to get the small flat head in there for more leverage. on all 3 tweeters i tried, i cracked all of them. i think that after you take the faceplates off, they will never go back on correctly. theres some very small and soft gaskets that are between the flage and the dome, and between the diaphragm assembly and the housing. theyre held on with very very light adhesive. once its off, its off. if you never plan on using the flange again, you should be ok. i havent noticed any negative side effects. im not sure how it would be if you put it back together (if you properly manage to at all). 


where i managed to get my pick and screw driver in. the little gap you see.






you can see here where i was prying with the pick








where mine cracked..








heres one of the gaskets. that little black ring thats lifted up by and above the terminal on the right





so after you have everything off, you want to put the coil/diaphragm assembly back in, and glue the plastic rim of the cone, to the magnets housing. i did this with ca glue. be very careful not to get it anywhere else. the slightest drop of glue on the cone of a tweeter will potentially ruin it. i didnt get pics of this 


this is where i glued the grill back on. used VERY small amount of ca glue so i didnt get any on the diaphragm. a good way to do this, is remove the grill (which all you need to do is get your pick tool, hook it, and pull up lightly. its held on with a bit of adhesive but comes off easy), then put a small dab of ca blue on a flat surface, and dip the edges of the grill in it so it only picks up a very small amount. put it into place, and wallah. be careful again. i just used little dabs of glue, like where i painted red..






and yeah, your pretty much good to go.


----------



## strakele

Interesting, thanks for the pics!


----------



## SkizeR

strakele said:


> Interesting, thanks for the pics!


no problem.


----------



## Victor_inox

Just enough reason for me to never get scans again. That is ****ty design right there. I don't care how they sound vc attachment and terminals just awful 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Victor_inox said:


> Just enough reason for me to never get scans again. That is ****ty design right there. I don't care how they sound vc attachment and terminals just awful
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


yeah thats my only gripe. im not to concerned though.


----------



## SkizeR

new little computer setup. just gotta make a box for my anarchies now


audio from the mother board out to a victory sonics tube preamp, to zapco dc 360.4, to Era PL24 monitors. all powered by a victory sonics power supply.


----------



## sienna12

In that kind of set up, would a USB DAC even make a difference?


----------



## SkizeR

sienna12 said:


> In that kind of set up, would a USB DAC even make a difference?


for my computer? dont know, but i could just get a halfway decent sound card for a decent price


----------



## SkizeR

not to bad having an eq like this for your computer


----------



## SkizeR

just going to make life easy and put the sub amps on the rear shelf instead of having to fabricate a whole trunk to put them how i was thinking before.


----------



## SkizeR

hopefully i can make some progress while i have the house to myself for ten days. WHOOO! family is out in california, so ill be working like a mad man while i dont have any distractions. first, obligatory snapchat screenshot from my brother..






so i started on the rear shelf amp rack as posted earlier. yesterday i started making the beauty panel for it. this was all done within the two hours i had from getting home from work, till when it got dark

test fit. the sides have a 45 degree chamfer on the underside so it can get as close to the panels as possibly so i dont have to use as much duraglass later








marking off where the amps are under the cover.








a VERY rough cut lol.






and then i forgot to get pics of making the straight cuts and 45 degree chamfer. sorry :/


----------



## hot9dog

Those Zapco`s look and fit nicely in that space. ... killer


----------



## SkizeR

hot9dog said:


> Those Zapco`s look and fit nicely in that space. ... killer


theres literally about an inch of space all the way around. safe to say that i lucked out lol


----------



## Babs

Lookin' damn good there!
Shaping up into a first class install.


----------



## SkizeR

so to continue my post from justins build log, heres how my stage is currently layed out with the 7 drum track.

as of right now, this is what mine sounds like. 1st hit is focused, but lower than the others and comes from as wide as the door. the 7th is still pretty focused but if you really pay attention and look at it, you can kinda hear that its a bit stretched vertically. not sure if that makes sense, but i showed in the pic below. all the others are great


----------



## KSakai

nice build!..i wonder how you endure w/ those tools lol


----------



## SkizeR

KSakai said:


> nice build!..i wonder how you endure w/ those tools lol


thank you. and oh man you have no idea. this whole build was done with basic hand tools, a jig saw (a broken one at that), and a very ****ty router/table. if only i had the proper space and tools..


----------



## KSakai

SkizeR said:


> thank you. and oh man you have no idea. this whole build was done with basic hand tools, a jig saw (a broken one at that), and a very ****ty router/table. if only i had the proper space and tools..


at least u did a good job!.. i can't even use that saw lol
really want to do all such works by my own but mom wouldn't see her daughter do such things lmao


----------



## Babs

SkizeR said:


> im not sure how people can tune a car or any sort of install techniques that make the stage wider than the car itself. when i play that track, hits 1 and 7 are slightly lower than the rest, and sound like theyre coming from as wide as the doors. hits 2-6 are over the dash and for the most part, spaced properly.





SkizeR said:


> any tips to get 1-7 raised and wider without changing driver placement (which is simply not possible in my car). sorry for hijacking, just curious :/


Might already be stated, but remember 1 and 7 are unique because they should theoretically be only the one tweeter/mid side playing. So if you're confident you've got the sides dialed in TA/phase/etc so all drivers on a side are playing perfectly with each other, then you're fairly limited what you can do I'd think in terms of raising the stage. Keep in mind, we'd expect the left tweeter, if playing alone, to project an image directly from itself.. Even though reflections will blur into that.

Thus the "rainbow" stage affect many speak of in here. I've got it, now that I know what it is.. My center is inches higher than my actual tweeters. What you're describing is the same. Don't know if you can eleviate that in any other way and manner than driver location or angle or both changing. The joys of making a sound-stage in a car.  It's like golf, the most fun and most frustrating game in the world.

Additionally, what's interesting is how 2 and 6 appear a good bit higher, just by slight addition of panning in the other side's drivers, then it does kind of appear flat.. So that's a good thing. I'll also add, not mentioning names, but I've seen very high placed mid/tweets like up in the dash, but I thought my own ears detected center stage actually dip.. Center was coming from the head unit. First time experiencing that.


----------



## SkizeR

Babs said:


> Might already be stated, but remember 1 and 7 are unique because they should theoretically be only the one tweeter/mid side playing. So if you're confident you've got the sides dialed in TA/phase/etc so all drivers on a side are playing perfectly with each other, then you're fairly limited what you can do I'd think in terms of raising the stage. Keep in mind, we'd expect the left tweeter, if playing alone, to project an image directly from itself.. Even though reflections will blur into that.
> 
> Thus the "rainbow" stage affect many speak of in here. I've got it, now that I know what it is.. My center is inches higher than my actual tweeters. What you're describing is the same. Don't know if you can eleviate that in any other way and manner than driver location or angle or both changing. The joys of making a sound-stage in a car.  It's like golf, the most fun and most frustrating game in the world.
> 
> Additionally, what's interesting is how 2 and 6 appear a good bit higher, just by slight addition of panning in the other side's drivers, then it does kind of appear flat.. So that's a good thing. I'll also add, not mentioning names, but I've seen very high placed mid/tweets like up in the dash, but I thought my own ears detected center stage actually dip.. Center was coming from the head unit. First time experiencing that.


yeah im thinking i have the ta pretty much nailed, and will just have to live with the rainbow effect since the mids are in the kicks (the mids will play much more of the drums on the track than the tweeters)


----------



## Babs

SkizeR said:


> yeah im thinking i have the ta pretty much nailed, and will just have to live with the rainbow effect since the mids are in the kicks (the mids will play much more of the drums on the track than the tweeters)


Yep.. That's kind of as good as you're gonna get I'd say with that location.


----------



## SkizeR

Babs said:


> Yep.. That's kind of as good as you're gonna get I'd say with that location.


you dont notice it nearly as much if at all with music though


----------



## SkizeR

made a small bracket last night to secure the beauty panel over the amps. might not make much progress over the weekend since i have a "customer" coming today and im replacing the factory tweed with suede just like i did mine (same car). that will probably consume all of today and saturday, then i wont be home saturday night till sunday :/ oh well. maybe once i get the subs (which im probably getting this weekend) i will just take a few days off and just bang out the trunk and move on to the door panels and trim around the amp racks beauty panels


----------



## subwoofery

Babs said:


> Might already be stated, but remember 1 and 7 are unique because they should theoretically be only the one tweeter/mid side playing. So if you're confident you've got the sides dialed in TA/phase/etc so all drivers on a side are playing perfectly with each other, then you're fairly limited what you can do I'd think in terms of raising the stage. Keep in mind, we'd expect the left tweeter, if playing alone, to project an image directly from itself.. Even though reflections will blur into that.
> 
> Thus the "rainbow" stage affect many speak of in here. I've got it, now that I know what it is.. My center is inches higher than my actual tweeters. What you're describing is the same. Don't know if you can eleviate that in any other way and manner than driver location or angle or both changing. The joys of making a sound-stage in a car.  It's like golf, the most fun and most frustrating game in the world.
> 
> Additionally, what's interesting is how 2 and 6 appear a good bit higher, just by slight addition of panning in the other side's drivers, then it does kind of appear flat.. So that's a good thing. I'll also add, not mentioning names, but I've seen very high placed mid/tweets like up in the dash, but I thought my own ears detected center stage actually dip.. Center was coming from the head unit. First time experiencing that.


It's been a long time since I've played with that track but aren't hit 1 and 7 also played by the opposite side? But at a very low volume? Maybe it was 2 and 6, I don't know... Can't remember... 

-- OP-- 
Mute one side and play the track, if you hear 7 hits, then you know that hit 1 and 7 should also image high - regardless of the location of your midbass/mids. 

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> It's been a long time since I've played with that track but aren't hit 1 and 7 also played by the opposite side? But at a very low volume? Maybe it was 2 and 6, I don't know... Can't remember...
> 
> -- OP--
> Mute one side and play the track, if you hear 7 hits, then you know that hit 1 and 7 should also image high - regardless of the location of your midbass/mids.
> 
> Kelvin


i think i did this a while ago before i re-did my eq and ta, an remember the one side not playing the first or last hit when muted. ill try again today


----------



## lexington_86

Nice ride. I have a 91TT myself


----------



## SkizeR

lexington_86 said:


> Nice ride. I have a 91TT myself


nice. any audio install yet?


----------



## SkizeR

so turns out i probably wont have to go IB. thank god cause i didnt want to go through all of that work. the enclosure is about 2.3 cubic feet and should be enough for most 12" sub pairs.


----------



## lexington_86

SkizeR said:


> nice. any audio install yet?


I used to have a system in it. I had a Kenwood Exelon KVT DVD, (2) 6.5 Diamond Audio Hex Components, (2) 5.25 Diamond Audio Hex Components, (2) Ascendant Audio Havoc 12's (1) MMATS d3500.1, (1) MMATS SQ4100. I've also used (3) Alpine Type R's (sealed), (2)Diamond Audio Hex Pro 12's, (2) Alpine Type X 12's, and (1) MMATS Juggernaut 12.
All of this was around 6 years ago. I'm in the process of building another setup. I want to scale down a little bit. Looking at running a strong 5 channel amp if I can find one at the right price. I do have a MMATS M3000.1 sitting around that I may run in 2 ohms and thinking about picking up a MMATS SQ4160 as well. Going to run a TC Sounds Axis 12 with Focal Components.


----------



## Babs

SkizeR said:


> so turns out i probably wont have to go IB. thank god cause i didnt want to go through all of that work. the enclosure is about *2.3 cubic feet and should be enough for most 12" sub pairs*.


----------



## SkizeR

Babs said:


>


lol im not even sure i understand what is actually trying to be said


----------



## dallasneon

Drop the bass


----------



## Babs

dallasneon said:


> Drop the bass


^ that  

Point being.. A pair of 12's in a Z-car! Boom!


----------



## SkizeR

Ahhh lol

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

and sorry for no updates recently. am doing a suede interior job on a friends Z and was sick all weekend. should be back on it today if it clears up outside


----------



## DDfusion

Check your pms


----------



## SkizeR

DDfusion said:


> Check your pms


i dont have any. make sure yours was sent


----------



## subwoofery

SkizeR said:


> i think i did this a while ago before i re-did my eq and ta, an remember the one side not playing the first or last hit when muted. ill try again today


Did you have time to try again? Just wondering 

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> Did you have time to try again? Just wondering
> 
> Kelvin


nope :/ i was sick for the past few days and it rained today


----------



## subwoofery

Get well then  No rush... 

Kelvin


----------



## SkizeR

subwoofery said:


> Get well then  No rush...
> 
> Kelvin


well by sick i mean extremely hung over lol. im fine now :laugh:


----------



## schicksal

Sweet car! I'll admit I sort of hit up pages at random because I don't have time to go through 68 of them but how much more is there left to do?


----------



## SkizeR

schicksal said:


> Sweet car! I'll admit I sort of hit up pages at random because I don't have time to go through 68 of them but how much more is there left to do?


just gotta finish the rear. by rear i mean make the top baffle for the subs, finish the second amp rack beauty panel, and make the beauty panels trim pieces. then i want to redo the kick panels cause theyre ugly as sin, and gotta podify the door panels. and yeah you should skip about the first 35 pages of this thread lol


----------



## LaserSVT

Is it done yet? Also am I losing my mind or did you have different subs planned? Dont remember the Illusions in your sig before.
And why not post the semi-finished pics of the amp rack you posted in our other audio hangout? Really looks trick!


----------



## vwdave

You should scare everyone and show your car with all of e test amps installed. Lol

Weren't the Dynaudio subs your first planned ones? I remember because I responded back then since I was running one at the time.

Btw install is looking good. It'll be nice once you have a working system, but you won't want to drive the car then because you'll be afraid of the car getting damaged or stolen. Lol


----------



## SkizeR

LaserSVT said:


> Is it done yet? Also am I losing my mind or did you have different subs planned? Dont remember the Illusions in your sig before.
> And why not post the semi-finished pics of the amp rack you posted in our other audio hangout? Really looks trick!


What pic was it?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

vwdave said:


> You should scare everyone and show your car with all of e test amps installed. Lol
> 
> Weren't the Dynaudio subs your first planned ones? I remember because I responded back then since I was running one at the time.
> 
> Btw install is looking good. It'll be nice once you have a working system, but you won't want to drive the car then because you'll be afraid of the car getting damaged or stolen. Lol


No first it was the ultimos. I traded them for the Brax amp. Not enough output for my tastes for when I really want to jam out

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## schicksal

SkizeR said:


> just gotta finish the rear. by rear i mean make the top baffle for the subs, finish the second amp rack beauty panel, and make the beauty panels trim pieces. then i want to redo the kick panels cause theyre ugly as sin, and gotta podify the door panels. and yeah you should skip about the first 35 pages of this thread lol


Then maybe it's time for a turbo? I thought I saw that mentioned somewhere early on.


----------



## SkizeR

schicksal said:


> Then maybe it's time for a turbo? I thought I saw that mentioned somewhere early on.


actually, that too. i am doing that shortly. nothing big though. i came to terms that i dont need it and would be pointless if the main focus of the car is the audio


----------



## abusiveDAD

SkizeR said:


> well by sick i mean extremely hung over lol. im fine now :laugh:


Ha, that's the only time I feel sick


----------



## LaserSVT

SkizeR said:


> actually, that too. i am doing that shortly. nothing big though. i came to terms that i dont need it and would be pointless if the main focus of the car is the audio


If main focus was audio, why didn't you keep some climate control in it? LOL

Also the picture I was thinking about was the amps behind the seat after you got it covered. Thats one of my favorite Zapco amp pictures ever.


----------



## SkizeR

LaserSVT said:


> If main focus was audio, why didn't you keep some climate control in it? LOL
> 
> Also the picture I was thinking about was the amps behind the seat after you got it covered. Thats one of my favorite Zapco amp pictures ever.


that is for the audio lol. needed to deaden and sound proof the fire wall, and relocated all of the fuse boxes and ecu back there so i can put the mids in the kicks.


----------



## LaserSVT

They call me the "Problem Solver".


----------



## SkizeR

finally got my mic and rew up and running. completely started over with all my my eq/ta, did a base tune within an hour and a half, and good lord. every problem i had before, is now gone. 7 drum hits track is nearly perfect, SLIGHTLY compressed on the drivers side. everything is right where it should be. only got to listen for fifteen minutes though since it was dark and the next door neighbors have young kids that were probably sleeping. sorry not sorry


----------



## SkizeR

oh, and my friend who helped me set up the amps for the test wanted a demo, and i accidently hooked up the midrange output on the p99 to the tweeters symbilink cable.. he listened to it for about 25 minutes, most of the time at max volume. the crossover on the mids is 200hz at 24 db, and also have an inline cap that crosses at 800 at the obvious -6. theyre 100% fine. i have not a god damn clue how. and to think i was scared to cross them lower than 2k


----------



## SkizeR

did some tuning this weekend. found out a great method to use both eq's (p99 and zapco) while staying organized. separate left and right eq is done via the zapco amps with ten band parametric per channel, and if i still have some issues i can use the left/right 31 band graphic eq on the p99 (only needed to a few times). then mono eq done via mono 31 band on the p99. heres my readings from midrange and tweeters. not much eq was needed to the midbass. after doing this i listened for about 30 minutes. its never sounded better. its incredible actually. the 7 snare hit track is practically perfect, drum solos from joey jordison on my hood (excecute by Slipknot. great track, although wouldnt be considered "sq", it has great left and right information and is just fun as all hell to jam out to). no more bloating in the lower end of male vocals, etc etc. ignore the response thats showing below 50hz. not sure what was causing that. it was even there with nothing playing.

drivers side midrange. i got those dips/peaks between 500 and 800 tamed a bit after i took this screen grab






midrange passenger side






both midrange. need to fix this a bit







drivers side tweeters






pass side tweeters. the dip at 9k was taken care of after i got the screen grab.







both tweeters






driver side mid and tweeter








passanger side mid and tweeter







both sides mids and tweeters after adjusting levels


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

SkizeR said:


> thank you. and oh man you have no idea. this whole build was done with basic hand tools, a jig saw (a broken one at that), and a very ****ty router/table. if only i had the proper space and tools..


I hear that **** bro. I don't even have a jig or a router so my install is going to involve Some pretty radical materials and ideas.

But anyways, its really come a long way! Damn nice work


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

LaserSVT said:


> They call me the "Problem Solver".


For sale- 97 Ford Econoline
Runs great
ICE COLD AC!


----------



## SkizeR

OldSchoolAddict said:


> I hear that **** bro. I don't even have a jig or a router so my install is going to involve Some pretty radical materials and ideas.
> 
> But anyways, its really come a long way! Damn nice work


thanks man. come get a demo! where in CT are you? maybe i can help you with your install


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

I'm in the middle of the state, Rocky Hill.

I'm definately down, but I need to fix my car up before I take a long drive like that. I'm actually trying to get my post count up so I can make the money to fix it. I'm selling a few really decent OS amps that need repair but I gotta reach 100 posts lol.

But yeah that'd be cool as hell! I'd like to hear a properly tuned system, nobody around here knows what an RTA is or even cares.

We are a strange breed in this day and age. Why put a system in a car when it already has a Bluetooth link or an aux Jack :/


----------



## SkizeR

OldSchoolAddict said:


> I'm in the middle of the state, Rocky Hill.
> 
> I'm definately down, but I need to fix my car up before I take a long drive like that. I'm actually trying to get my post count up so I can make the money to fix it. I'm selling a few really decent OS amps that need repair but I gotta reach 100 posts lol.
> 
> But yeah that'd be cool as hell! I'd like to hear a properly tuned system, nobody around here knows what an RTA is or even cares.
> 
> We are a strange breed in this day and age. Why put a system in a car when it already has a Bluetooth link or an aux Jack :/


dont turn your back on bluetooth. aptx bluetooth is essentially lossless and is great


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

It's not that I don't enjoy Bluetooth, I just don't like the way head units and climate control and every other button in the car is incorporated into one large unit these days


----------



## SkizeR

OldSchoolAddict said:


> It's not that I don't enjoy Bluetooth, I just don't like the way head units and climate control and every other button in the car is incorporated into one large unit these days


very true. ive been on the edge of keeping my stock head unit in my daily, or putting in a panasonic tube deck. i would lose bluetooth (which is so god damn convenient), and the use of the other screen. not even sure what its called. its a 2012 honda civic. thank goodness the climate controls arent built in


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

Its a bad joke, all of it. 

Another thing they love to do is use awful paper cone speakers that are 2 ohm, so that when they finally pop and you install aftermarket replacements that are 9 times out of ten 4 ohm, you all of a sudden have a weak dull sounding system.

Factory systems are funny like that


----------



## SkizeR

OldSchoolAddict said:


> Its a bad joke, all of it.
> 
> Another thing they love to do is use awful paper cone speakers that are 2 ohm, so that when they finally pop and you install aftermarket replacements that are 9 times out of ten 4 ohm, you all of a sudden have a weak dull sounding system.
> 
> Factory systems are funny like that


some bose speakers are 1 ohm, or even .5 ohm (although i havent seen those, just heard about em)


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

Yeah I've seen a few of the 1 ohm Bose speakers lol

It's always strange to see a 6.5 in a door that's less than 4ohms, but that's just me


----------



## OldSchoolAddict

I wish I had a few of those half ohm speakers, I'd love to wire a few onto my amp with the gain all the way down, just to see at what volume they will give up the ghost.

I'd bet before I reach volume level 5 they'd smoke.


----------



## SkizeR

had the day off so i got some work done. once the piece is done ill post some pics


----------



## SkizeR

finished the front part of my amp rack trim piece today, and started on the back part. ps.. those smudges are just dust


----------



## benny z

Hey! That's looking nice!


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> Hey! That's looking nice!


thanks. tomorrow ill be attaching the pieces, then routing out the top of that corner


----------



## hot9dog

I like the contrast of the black with white frame, the angles and radius cut into it look spot on. Good deal!


----------



## lostthumb

Nice work!! Can't wait to see it all buttoned up.


----------



## SkizeR

Thanks guys. I'm actually off until next Wednesday so I'll be bangin out as much work as possible. Right now that trim piece as glued to the other trim piece to mate both amp rack beauty panels

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## sbeezy

Looking Good!


----------



## benny z

yeah man, that's super slick.


----------



## benny z

i was reading your thread from the beginning last night and saw where you had put the mids in the doors. then i found a more recent posting where you were showing the locations where you hear the 7 drums hitting. it didn't look like you had the mids there anymore...i kept reading, but finally went to bed - just curious where you ended up putting the mids?


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> i was reading your thread from the beginning last night and saw where you had put the mids in the doors. then i found a more recent posting where you were showing the locations where you hear the 7 drums hitting. it didn't look like you had the mids there anymore...i kept reading, but finally went to bed - just curious where you ended up putting the mids?


I wish I could delete the first third of this thread lol. It's pretty embarrassing. They're in the kicks now. I'm actually going to be redoing those soon too

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Duncanbullet

SkizeR said:


> I wish I could delete the first third of this thread lol. It's pretty embarrassing. They're in the kicks now. I'm actually going to be redoing those soon too
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I wish i could delete the first third of my life....


----------



## benny z

i hate it when that happens!!! 

if you snuck a pic of their current location into the next update, that'd be pretty rad.

cheers!


----------



## SkizeR

Duncanbullet said:


> I wish i could delete the first third of my life....


Lol yeah there's parts of mine too

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> i hate it when that happens!!!
> 
> if you snuck a pic of their current location into the next update, that'd be pretty rad.
> 
> cheers!







Doing some bondo lines to flush the pieces to the interior





Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## craiggus365

Is that mounting board around the midbass different? Maybe it is the angle of the shot but I don't remember that large flat when I came up a few weeks ago.


----------



## Bayboy

:snacks:


----------



## SkizeR

craiggus365 said:


> Is that mounting board around the midbass different? Maybe it is the angle of the shot but I don't remember that large flat when I came up a few weeks ago.


Same one. It's 3/16" steel that's primed, painted, deadened, then plastidipped

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> Lol yeah there's parts of mine too
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Friend of yours?


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Friend of yours?


Oh man that booty..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## hot9dog

Someone's been busy today.... looks good


----------



## 0nbagz

Looking good mate


----------



## Brian_smith06

SkizeR said:


> Same one. It's 3/16" steel that's primed, painted, deadened, then plastidipped
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


damn I love you midbass install! Really considering saying f it and doing something similar to mine. But im stubborn and only want a 2 way front. I suppose the mw182 would work well in a 2 way. I just need it to play to 2kish


----------



## SkizeR

I think they start beaming at 1.4k. But thanks. The midbass from them is extremely impressive

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## benny z

Update?


----------



## SkizeR

Been away all weekend

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

havent really touched the car in a few weeks. just did a bit more tuning. re-did my time alignment, and did more eq work. i still have a bit of "stage compression" on the drivers side. like with the 7 drum track, the first two are both dead left, and then the third one is above the gauge cluster, and the rest are perfect. going to have to look into that more. but heres some rta readings from today. i can say though, that this is the best its sounded to date

both left and right tweeters






mono tweeters





both left and right midranges





mono midrange






both left and right midbass







mono midbass






left and right total..






and for some reason i guess i didnt save the picture of the system total. it did look like the left and right but smoother. ill get a pic tomorrow i guess


----------



## benny z

Don't drive yourself bat **** crazy with the 7 drum beats track. It's really pretty terrible and mostly useless. Do you have the emma tracks of the guy walking around the stage? That is so much more telling of the stage boundaries and positions.


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> Don't drive yourself bat **** crazy with the 7 drum beats track. It's really pretty terrible and mostly useless. Do you have the emma tracks of the guy walking around the stage? That is so much more telling of the stage boundaries and positions.


i do but not on a disk. ill try that tomorrow too. thanks.


----------



## benny z

Update?


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> Update?


Haven't touched the car in a month besides tuning it last week

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## JayinMI

And pretty soon she'll sit more, because you'll be out making snow baording videos. lol 

Nice to see it finally playing. Getting there.

Jay


----------



## Kazuhiro

SkizeR said:


> i do but not on a disk. ill try that tomorrow too. thanks.


Would you kindly hook me up with this track 

EQ looking more dialed in, but I'd switch to a 5dB scale. Its easy to forget that a 3dB difference is twice the power. I have also been investing many maaaaaany hours into tweaking since receiving the core1.


----------



## gumbeelee

Damn SkizeR the work u have put in your ride, takes time, dedication, patience and just flat skill. Its looking good buddy, hang in there you will finish it one if these days.


----------



## quickaudi07

I thought of the same thing, and I almost finished mine, i still have a sub box todo and trunk touch's, but other than that, its almost completed. Than I'm either going to Scoot @ ground zero to do a tune or someone round here to see where this takes...

Either way good job buddy, cant get enough of your posts. Please be safe this winter, we all are waiting for the final finished results of your Z!

One crazy build!


----------



## oabeieo

Nice build buddy , first I seen it . Spent last two hours going through 70 pages! 

Lookin awesome tho Dood ! I love those amps!


----------



## SkizeR

oabeieo said:


> Nice build buddy , first I seen it . Spent last two hours going through 70 pages!
> 
> Lookin awesome tho Dood ! I love those amps!


thanks. please ignore the first half of it lol.


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> thanks. please ignore the first half of it lol.


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


>


but.. but.. leo didnt say that


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> but.. but.. leo didnt say that


Better?


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


> Better?


yo thats my mom dawg, mad disrespekt


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> yo thats my mom dawg, mad disrespekt


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


>


jesus christ you have a meme for everything dont you?


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> jesus christ you have a meme for everything dont you?


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


>



most people who keep up with this build log at this point be like..


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> most people who keep up with this build log at this point be like..


----------



## Brian_smith06

damn people with more memes than me! the f...


----------



## High Resolution Audio

rton20s said:


>


He's closest to finishing than he has ever been. Does that count?


----------



## SkizeR

Brian_smith06 said:


> damn people with more memes than me! the f...


rton has the meme game on lock


----------



## rton20s

High Resolution Audio said:


> He's closest to finishing than he has ever been. Does that count?


----------



## Brian_smith06

I need to get those bitches on photobucket asap for a meme off!


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> rton has the meme game on lock


----------



## benny z

Lmao!


----------



## SkizeR

rton20s said:


>


"u wot m8?"


----------



## MotoCARR

rton20s said:


>


LOLLL awesome:laugh:


----------



## vivmike

This guy needs attention.


----------



## Bikerbrah

Holy s* this thread started in 2013! GOD I miss my 91 300zx N/A. Was gorgeous.

Only seen the first page, about to find more pics!!


----------



## SkizeR

Bikerbrah said:


> Holy s* this thread started in 2013! GOD I miss my 91 300zx N/A. Was gorgeous.
> 
> Only seen the first page, about to find more pics!!


Please skip the first 20 pages lol

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Staffordshire

i was following this thread, but only now i noticed that it started in 2013 lol. 
nice install, you are taking your time  good luck i wish you to finish it in 2016


----------



## SkizeR

Staffordshire said:


> i was following this thread, but only now i noticed that it started in 2013 lol.
> nice install, you are taking your time  good luck i wish you to finish it in 2016


taking my time is an understatement lol. i only can work on it on the weekends of the late spring, summer, and early fall. so like 50 days of the year. thanks though. i actually just gave a friend who just got his first system a demo. he now wants something like this lol


----------



## Bikerbrah

figured you'd care to see my old 300


----------



## kaflam

Are you equalizing with pink noise??


----------



## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> Are you equalizing with pink noise??


yes sir


----------



## kaflam

And your "left & right total" curve, is your 3 way only?? Without sub?


----------



## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> And your "left & right total" curve, is your 3 way only?? Without sub?


the one posted is an old tune. i dont remember what was what from that post. i think i retuned twice since then


----------



## kaflam

I know, it would be interesting to see your actual curve.

And how do you do the TA??


----------



## XSIV SPL

kaflam said:


> Are you equalizing with pink noise??





SkizeR said:


> yes sir


I guess that still happens when your ears haven't fully developed...


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> I guess that still happens when your ears haven't fully developed...


probably. i will fully admit id be nowhere if i didnt have a mic as far as my tune is going. TA is actually pretty easy by ear. eq using a parametric eq, not so much lol


----------



## kaflam

LOL, but TA by ear using what on the sound?


----------



## XSIV SPL

SkizeR said:


> probably. i will fully admit id be nowhere if i didnt have a mic as far as my tune is going. TA is actually pretty easy by ear. eq using a parametric eq, not so much lol


Why go parametric? Just curious


----------



## kaflam

XSIV SPL said:


> Why go parametric? Just curious


If your place/position mount is good, and you have a good sound dampening, the parametric eq is really soft and more natural. But let see what OP says.


----------



## XSIV SPL

kaflam said:


> If your place/position mount is good, and you have a good sound dampening, the parametric eq is really soft and more natural. But let see what OP says.


I already know what he'll say...


----------



## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> LOL, but TA by ear using what on the sound?


not sure what you mean by "using what on the sound"


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> Why go parametric? Just curious



because why not? 

but really, its just much much more flexible than graphic. i use graphic too in the p99. i eq all the drivers to have a good, linear response, then do mono eq with the p99





kaflam said:


> If your place/position mount is good, and you have a good sound dampening, the parametric eq is really soft and more natural. But let see what OP says.



soft an natural? is graphic eq hard and unnatural?




XSIV SPL said:


> I already know what he'll say...


curious what your guess was. be honest lol


----------



## XSIV SPL

kaflam said:


> LOL, but TA by ear using what on the sound?


I'd guess most of us would be using just about any recorded sound, but some are indeed better than others


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> I'd guess most of us would be using just about any recorded sound, but some are indeed better than others


ah so hes asking what tracks or type of music/noise. i actually used a few ways but they always have very similar results. whether it be band limited pink noise, placement tracks, etc etc


----------



## XSIV SPL

SkizeR said:


> ah so hes asking what tracks or type of music/noise. i actually used a few ways but they always have very similar results. whether it be band limited pink noise, placement tracks, etc etc


SkizeR, the one thing I've never heard you commit to is using only your ears to tune something... Are you skilled?, or are you scared?


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> SkizeR, the one thing I've never heard you commit to is using only your ears to tune something... Are you skilled?, or are you scared?


ive tried it. i didnt have a mic for about the first 2 or 3 months the car was playing. it wasnt nearly as good as with a mic. like i said before, i just dont have the ear yet


----------



## XSIV SPL

SkizeR said:


> ive tried it. i didnt have a mic for about the first 2 or 3 months the car was playing. it wasnt nearly as good as with a mic. like i said before, i just dont have the ear yet


I will give you credit for admitting that...

So, you're lost without a mic...

I guess that's why we have mics...

But, no mic will ever be as good as a good ear...


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> I will give you credit for admitting that...


well i can pick out obvious stuff, but getting down the the small stuff like, for example, cutting by like half a db in one spot, or a little boost over here is needed.. stuff like that i have trouble with. im actually beginning to think i just dont have good ears in general. like slightly hard of hearing


----------



## XSIV SPL

SkizeR said:


> well i can pick out obvious stuff, but getting down the the small stuff like, for example, cutting by like half a db in one spot, or a little boost over here is needed.. stuff like that i have trouble with. im actually beginning to think i just dont have good ears in general. like slightly hard of hearing


Me too... That's why I generally run my tune past a few others before I commit to it... I'm pretty good, but far from perfect...


----------



## kaflam

SkizeR said:


> soft an natural? is graphic eq hard and unnatural?


IMO
I think it is, it gets a spike on the bands, i.e. If you have to lower the 4kHz & 5 kHz bands, then you will get a small bump on 4.5 kHz, but parametric lets you change the freq and the wide of the curve. Also, it gets more versatile.




SkizeR said:


> not sure what you mean by "using what on the sound"


Sorry, i meant tracks as you said. But i was thinking on pink noise, sweep, "clicks"...


----------



## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> IMO
> I think it is, it gets a spike on the bands, i.e. If you have to lower the 4kHz & 5 kHz bands, then you will get a small bump on 4.5 kHz, but parametric lets you change the freq and the wide of the curve. Also, it gets more versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i meant tracks as you said. But i was thinking on pink noise, sweep, "clicks"...


I think the word for that would just be more flexible. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## kaflam

Do you use the p99rs flat?


----------



## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> Do you use the p99rs flat?





SkizeR said:


> i eq all the drivers to have a good, linear response (via the zapco dc amps built in processing), then do mono eq with the p99


^^^^


----------



## kaflam

I missed that!

So, again: It would be interesting to see your actual curve, with and without the subs.


----------



## Babs

kaflam said:


> IMO
> I think it is, it gets a spike on the bands, i.e. If you have to lower the 4kHz & 5 kHz bands, then you will get a small bump on 4.5 kHz, but parametric lets you change the freq and the wide of the curve. Also, it gets more versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i meant tracks as you said. But i was thinking on pink noise, sweep, "clicks"...


Experimenting recently with Q=4.31 straight up graphic EQ in the Helix as opposed to parametric with some rather wide Q shaping, I've come out with pretty darn good if not better results than extensive 1-time parametric work. Further EQ work when sticking to 1/3 octave is simply easier. Balancing left/right sides by is easier. Applying global work without losing that balancing is easier. I'm kind of a plain ole 31 band 1/3 octave graphic fan at the moment. Though with the Helix, you can adjust Q and float the center a bit left or right without having to switch to a full parametric filter so there's still some flexibility there in the bandwidth of the filter. But having discovered what a plain jane 1/3 oct EQ will do, so long as there's left/right independent, I can see how guys get crazy good tunes out of the 99RS alone without extraneous DSP's.


----------



## sqnut

I so want to get involved in this thread. .


----------



## benny z

"My voice is in phase...my voice is in phase..."


----------



## Babs

benny z said:


> "My voice is in phase...my voice is in phase..."


Then chchchchchchchchc, sssssshhhhhhh, ssssssssss (my best 1/3 octave pink noise impersonation)


----------



## kaflam

Babs said:


> Then chchchchchchchchc, sssssshhhhhhh, ssssssssss (my best 1/3 octave pink noise impersonation)


LOL Is it a 3-way ??


----------



## Babs

kaflam said:


> LOL Is it a 3-way ??



No that's approximately 800, 1khz, 1.2khz. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kaflam

Babs said:


> No that's approximately 800, 1khz, 1.2khz.
> 
> 
> Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


:surprised:


----------



## benny z

Could you make a video?


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> Could you make a video?


Already made two for jerry and gstokes

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## benny z

I meant a video of this...



Babs said:


> Then chchchchchchchchc, sssssshhhhhhh, ssssssssss (my best 1/3 octave pink noise impersonation)


----------



## Babs

benny z said:


> I meant a video of this...



This is great center imaging! 

https://www.facebook.com/ktunewyork/videos/985868014785526/


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

Babs said:


> This is great center imaging!
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/ktunewyork/videos/985868014785526/
> 
> 
> Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


this video is hilarious


----------



## Babs

SkizeR said:


> this video is hilarious



I know right. Imagine that about 50 feet from you in the woods. I'd be walking funny all the way back to camp. LOL


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## benny z

That can't be real...


----------



## SkizeR

benny z said:


> That can't be real...


nah its real dawg


----------



## Babs

I can't stop watching it. LMAO


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

was just tuning before.. one question. do drivers response really change that much in the cold? my last tune had a pretty damn flat response (+or- 2db from 350-20k), went out and measured today and it was allll over the place. weird. and wanna know what sucks even more? while i was tuning in this 20 degree weather, i finished up both of my midranges after working on them for an hour, then realized for the second mid i accidently clicked the "channel 1/2" box instead of "channel 1" box and wrote over the tune i did on the first mid. to make it even worse, i tried to close the program without saving so i would have to just redo the one side (which wasnt to bad since i had a fresh memory of how i did it), but it turns out i didnt save the other side either. both mids tune gone after sitting in the car for over an hour (two hours total if including tuning the tweeters), in 20 degree weather, with no heat in the car... ****ing kill me


----------



## benny z

Yes. My stereo sounds like **** when it's super cold til it warms up.


----------



## kaflam

Yes, my drivers also sounds weird with cold, but they change after a while. I think it is because of the material on the cone.


----------



## XSIV SPL

Guys, it's not the temperature of the drivers that he's asking about, it's the response of the system due to the difference in of air density at different temperatures.

For example, on hot days, the bottom octave needs more excursion to make up for the thinner air...


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> Guys, it's not the temperature of the drivers that he's asking about, it's the response of the system due to the difference in of air density at different temperatures.
> 
> For example, on hot days, the bottom octave needs more excursion to make up for the thinner air...


I'm just talking in general

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## XSIV SPL

SkizeR said:


> I'm just talking in general
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


But possibly missing the point...


----------



## SkizeR

XSIV SPL said:


> But possibly missing the point...


I understand that air is more dense when it's cold, but last time I tuned it was about 45 degrees. Really makes THAT much of a difference? I went from a 2 db non linear swing on each driver to 9 db swings

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR said:


> I understand that air is more dense when it's cold, but last time I tuned it was about 45 degrees. Really makes THAT much of a difference? I went from a 2 db non linear swing on each driver to 9 db swings
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Were there big dips in the low end? 50-300


----------



## Beckerson1

Makes sense that the freq response would change slightly as the cold would affect how fluid the surrounds would work, as well as the spider, ect... Essentially you're making the suspension parts slightly stiffer.

I usually have to do a Hot or Cold tune depending on the temperature outside as it does swing with temperature. Enough so that I'd have to constantly mess with the EQ


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> Were there big dips in the low end? 50-300


Dude, everywhere. The response was all over the place

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

SkizeR said:


> Dude, everywhere. The response was all over the place
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Actually, now that I think about it I only measured the midrange and tweeters. So I'm not sure

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR said:


> Actually, now that I think about it I only measured the midrange and tweeters. So I'm not sure
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Thing is, the sounds comes back to normal once the car warms up inside. You've measured it so we know the FR gets messed up, I had myself convinced that it was to do with the cold air entering your ear and lowering your sensitivity to lower frequencies.


----------



## SkizeR

Actually, it did sound much quieter than usual too. But to bad the car doesnt have heat

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## erlebo

SkizeR said:


> was just tuning before.. one question. do drivers response really change that much in the cold? my last tune had a pretty damn flat response (+or- 2db from 350-20k), went out and measured today and it was allll over the place. weird. and wanna know what sucks even more? while i was tuning in this 20 degree weather, i finished up both of my midranges after working on them for an hour, then realized for the second mid i accidently clicked the "channel 1/2" box instead of "channel 1" box and wrote over the tune i did on the first mid. to make it even worse, i tried to close the program without saving so i would have to just redo the one side (which wasnt to bad since i had a fresh memory of how i did it), but it turns out i didnt save the other side either. both mids tune gone after sitting in the car for over an hour (two hours total if including tuning the tweeters), in 20 degree weather, with no heat in the car... ****ing kill me


Yes the response does change a lot with temperature.

Zaph|Audio


----------



## Mike Bober

If they sound just a little different they will measure different by alot when cold compared to being warm, measurements are so mich more sensitive than the human ear!


----------



## SkizeR

So I pretty much wasted 3 hours or so tuning a car that will never be driven in the winter, while it was 20 degrees out. Great

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## erlebo

SkizeR said:


> So I pretty much wasted 3 hours or so tuning a car that will never be driven in the winter, while it was 20 degrees out. Great
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I've wasted more than that before I realized why my measurements were inconsistent.

I now only tune when the car has been in a heated garage long enough.


----------



## sensarmy

Updates?


----------



## SkizeR

sensarmy said:


> Updates?


Don't want to do any updates till it's finished. But yeah, there's a few

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## juiceweazel

Eagerly waiting on more updates. I love this car. Will this be at the show on September 11?


----------



## SkizeR

juiceweazel said:


> Eagerly waiting on more updates. I love this car. Will this be at the show on September 11?


no updates until completion  .. i hate this car. wanna buy it? lol. and no, it wont be. i will be there with my other car though


----------



## juiceweazel

Hate it? What's wrong with it? And you'll never complete it if you hate it that much lol. What's the other ride?


----------



## SkizeR

juiceweazel said:


> Hate it? What's wrong with it? And you'll never complete it if you hate it that much lol. What's the other ride?


more of a love/hate. im sure you know how it is. and a 2012 civic. audiofrog GB's up front, diyma r12's helix processing, zapco amps, panasonic tube deck


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR;4016281.... a 2012 civic. audiofrog GB's up front said:


> What happened to the Sinfoni's?.........and iirc you were going to post a subjective review......


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> What happened to the Sinfoni's?.........and iirc you were going to post a subjective review......


i will soon. just very busy and to be honest, theres not much to write. im not the type of person to use a metric **** ton of audiophile terms to describe what i was hearing. long story short, they sound fine. but definitely not 1800 dollars for just two sets of drivers with no hardware fine. the mids sounded ok but couldnt handle a good amount of power. at first i thought their "breakup sound" it was install related, but it disappeared when i switched to audiofrogs. Also, midbass lacked at high volume. sounded more like a wet towel flapping in the wind (only at high volume, and no nothing was clipping. all of these sypmtoms went away when i switched drivers). everyone was raving about how the tweeter was the star of the show. when i first put them in, i could see why. i thought "oh ****, they werent lying". then i A/B'd then with scanspeak tweeters with their own separate tune but identical overall response. the "clarity and detail" that people were hearing was what seemed to me, just distortion. not an unpleasant distortion. but it was colored. when switching from scan to sinfoni, you could clearly hear the difference in resolution. the scans were able to able to resolve smaller details much better. but to be fair, i can see why people would like them. people have their preferences. The mids though.. not so much. It also seems like they skimped on their performance and build quality in favor of looks and cost. i can post a photo/video of what i mean later. overall, fine speakers, mid could be better. but definitely not acceptable for 1800 dollars. especially with no crossovers, grills, mounting hardware, etc etc


----------



## juiceweazel

SkizeR said:


> more of a love/hate. im sure you know how it is. and a 2012 civic. audiofrog GB's up front, diyma r12's helix processing, zapco amps, panasonic tube deck


Oh gotcha. Get tired of working on a project. Especially one of this size. Headaches come, chasing gremlins, especially on older cars or project cars. Still a beauty. I'd love to have another toy, but I don't have the time for the ones I have. I still need to sell my Ninja that I don't ride anymore...


----------



## SkizeR

juiceweazel said:


> Oh gotcha. Get tired of working on a project. Especially one of this size. Headaches come, chasing gremlins, especially on older cars or project cars. Still a beauty. I'd love to have another toy, but I don't have the time for the ones I have. I still need to sell my Ninja that I don't ride anymore...


it also sucks when your at work 85 hours a week..


----------



## sqnut

SkizeR said:


> i will soon. just very busy and to be honest, theres not much to write. im not the type of person to use a metric **** ton of audiophile terms to describe what i was hearing.


If you don't learn to describe what you're hearing, how will it get better? It is all down to response, timing and what you're hearing.




SkizeR said:


> long story short, they sound fine. but definitely not 1800 dollars for just two sets of drivers with no hardware fine. the mids sounded ok but couldnt handle a good amount of power. at first i thought their "breakup sound" it was install related, but it disappeared when i switched to audiofrogs. Also, midbass lacked at high volume. sounded more like a wet towel flapping in the wind (only at high volume, and no nothing was clipping. all of these sypmtoms went away when i switched drivers). everyone was raving about how the tweeter was the star of the show. when i first put them in, i could see why. i thought "oh ****, they werent lying". then i A/B'd then with scanspeak tweeters with their own separate tune but identical overall response. the "clarity and detail" that people were hearing was what seemed to me, just distortion. not an unpleasant distortion. but it was colored. when switching from scan to sinfoni, you could clearly hear the difference in resolution. the scans were able to able to resolve smaller details much better. but to be fair, i can see why people would like them. people have their preferences. The mids though.. not so much. It also seems like they skimped on their performance and build quality in favor of looks and cost. i can post a photo/video of what i mean later. overall, fine speakers, mid could be better. but definitely not acceptable for 1800 dollars. especially with no crossovers, grills, mounting hardware, etc etc


Thank you for an honest and balanced response, I've actually been waiting for someone to do a straight review, without turning into an instant fanboy over them. :thumbsup: Just going by the specs and the FR on the website, something didn't seem right. The AF's sound better because they measure much better.


----------



## fcarpio

Did you get the turbos in yet?


----------



## SkizeR

sqnut said:


> If you don't learn to describe what you're hearing, how will it get better? It is all down to response, timing and what you're hearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for an honest and balanced response, I've actually been waiting for someone to do a straight review, without turning into an instant fanboy over them. :thumbsup: Just going by the specs and the FR on the website, something didn't seem right. The AF's sound better because they measure much better.


the ones i have arent on the website. there is not a single spec or graph on them available. i have the tempos. and i did describe what i heard. just not with subjective and useless terms


----------



## SkizeR

fcarpio said:


> Did you get the turbos in yet?


lol..


----------



## rton20s

SkizeR said:


> it also sucks when your at work 85 hours a week..


Time spent on audio forums and Facebook groups does not count as "work."


----------



## Victor_inox

It does,depending what work you do.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

rton20s said:


> Time spent on audio forums and Facebook groups does not count as "work."


It does when your name is in red.


----------



## rton20s

cobb2819 said:


> It does when your name is in red.


----------



## SkizeR

it does when you do all of their computer and internet related work


----------



## juiceweazel

SkizeR said:


> it also sucks when your at work 85 hours a week..


That doesn't help. I feel ya. I work 50 + but have a toddler with the energy level of a jack russel & the destructive path that would make Taz jealous. Explains why my install is still just in & not "installed".


----------



## fcarpio

SkizeR said:


> lol..


I will take that as a no.


----------



## captainobvious

Update time....


----------



## SkizeR

captainobvious said:


> Update time....


Have touched it since I started working 65 hours a week :/

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## quickaudi07

Where are you wit this build dude... did you finally finish???


----------



## SkizeR

quickaudi07 said:


> Where are you wit this build dude... did you finally finish???


havent been able to touch the car since april. was working 80 hour weeks in the spring/summer, and busy every day in the winter (plus, screw working on cars in the cold in general lol). hopefully i get some time this year to finish it


----------



## SkizeR

/thread


----------



## jnchantler

SkizeR said:


> /thread




It's on the trailer the wrong way around, no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SkizeR

jnchantler said:


> It's on the trailer the wrong way around, no?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I dont think so. Either way, not my problem lol

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## I800C0LLECT

That's a good looking z. Wish I would have bought it!


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## quickaudi07

I guess you could close the thread now  sucks so much work and nothing ... Ahhaha skizer skizer!!! 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


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## GEM592

Aw I figured as much. Well bigger and better things.


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## SkizeR

quickaudi07 said:


> I guess you could close the thread now  sucks so much work and nothing ... Ahhaha skizer skizer!!!
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


So much work for nothing? This car is what I tried and learned pretty much everything I know on. If it werent for this build, I wouldn't be days away from closing on a shop to start my own install business. As a matter of fact, you had me do work for you that I originally learned on this car. I developed my style of pillars that a lot of people seem to like on this car between the 4 or so iterations of pillars I went through. Same with sail panels. What I learned at work when I was am apprentice, I would apply it to this car at a much larger scale. I learned how to really tune on this car as well. Because of this car (among other things) I might have a shot at becoming a successful business owner at only 25 years old. 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR

GEM592 said:


> Aw I figured as much. Well bigger and better things.


Yup. 2000 sq/ft bigger 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## quickaudi07

That's not what I meant skizer. Im Happy for you and your work and what you have accomplished throughout the years and learning experience... I didn't mean in a bad, what I was meaning by all this for nothing, what I was referring to was **** so much hard work, so much energy you put in to it and now it's gone to a different home... Be positive for once **** dude... !

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


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## juiceweazel

So sad to see her go. I loved watching this build as I had a soft spot for this generation of Z's. The lines were so much better then most of the newer crap.
Good luck with the new shop, it's tough out there but you've got some skills to hopefully stand out in the crowd.


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## I800C0LLECT

The style is still relevant! They did good on that car


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## BlueAc

You're getting a shop? That escalated quickly lol. Congrats man... hopefully September works better for our scheduled and I can meet back up with you. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jnchantler

SkizeR said:


> I dont think so. Either way, not my problem lol
> 
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk




Isn't it a rear wheel drive car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SkizeR

jnchantler said:


> Isn't it a rear wheel drive car?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yyyuuupp lmao. Again, not my problem anymore 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## sq2k1

That's killer you are getting a shop to further expand your work. I hope you do very well with it.


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## SkizeR

sq2k1 said:


> That's killer you are getting a shop to further expand your work. I hope you do very well with it.


Yeah, me too! lol. Thanks.


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## quickaudi07

That's awesome bro.. wish you nothing but the best.... Good luck to ya. You're in a great spot hope it brings a joy and happiness and great business to you. Im Sure down the road you will need some help  but for the start of it... Hope it turns out great for you.... 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


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## dcfis

I thought you were going to go cross country tuning and doing pillars during the day and collecting ladies during the night? A shop doesn't leave much left for airfare and hotels


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## Kenneth M

dcfis said:


> I thought you were going to go cross country tuning and doing pillars during the day and collecting ladies during the night? A shop doesn't leave much left for airfare and hotels


That's why he now has... four doors... for more whores.

Best of luck, amico.


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## kaflam

So sad, I had great expectations.

Can't wait to see the next project


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## SkizeR

kaflam said:


> So sad, I had great expectations.
> 
> Can't wait to see the next project


Yeah you and me both. But I sold this to put down a deposit on a space to start a shop. There will be plenty of other projects

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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## Jscoyne2

SkizeR said:


> also forgot to add "contemplate suicide" (kidding for all you people who cant take a joke), "ask myself: *why the **** would anyone ever do this for fun*", and lastly "*ask myself: why would i spend this much time and money on something that has little to no reward*" lol


and yet today... lol


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## SkizeR

Jscoyne2 said:


> and yet today... lol


Still contemplating 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## Sam b

Nick. I realize this is a very old post. But do you happen to have any pics of the kick panels you did for this build. Or any small kick panels you may have


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## SkizeR

Sam b said:


> Nick. I realize this is a very old post. But do you happen to have any pics of the kick panels you did for this build. Or any small kick panels you may have


nope


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## Sam b

Thanks nick


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