# 2008 Accord Revised: Audison bit Ten, Hertz, Alpine, Image Dynamics



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

I decided to ditch the 9887 because I'm enjoying the big display and 6 disc changer from the factory HU. So here's what's in there now:











Link to old thread


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

The box being built. This is the tightest box I've ever made.










Bit ten installed in the glove box:










Hertz 28mm tweeters wouldn't fit inside the factory location:










ID Max installed:


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

The ID Max has really deep screw holes on the basket - not just 1/2mm of metal like most subs I've worked with. If you don't drill your holes perfectly, the screws won't fit all the way around. I made the mistake of using "hurricane nuts" instead of T-nuts, so I got a screw stuck in the box and had to Dremel it out. Hence, the mounting holes had to be rotated and the sub isn't straight now. Also, the cutout for the IDMax is actually 11+1/8" if you're using a circle jig.


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Oh snap peter that looks great,good work.Now lets cover the enclosure,no slacking around here dude.Hows the BitOne treating you?


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Oh snap peter that looks great,good work.Now lets cover the enclosure,no slacking around here dude.Hows the BitOne treating you?


Agreed, wrap it up B.

And it's a BitTen.

Really liking the equipment and the build.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

It sounds great except for a buzz that can be heard when the system is off. I had a shop do the bit ten wiring, but I did the amps. They're saying, of course, that it's probably the amps or the RCAs picking something up. Not sure how to resolve this, but I'm going to open it up again and see if the noise changes with the amplifier gains (they did the settings). It's definitely not coming from the stock HU/amp because it doesn't change when I change the gains/volume on the bit ten.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Any more pics....thanks


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

I unstacked the amps and re-arranged the wires a bit and the noise is noticeably lessened, but still not gone.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

I turned down the gain on the amps (it was at the default, which is probably for a 2v HU) and the noise is gone! It sounds fantastic now. Here's a blurry picture.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Put some skin on that box:laugh:


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

The box will be covered once I decide whether to rebuild it or put a mounting ring on it to take care of those crooked screw holes.


----------



## killahsharksjc (Apr 30, 2009)

Great job so far.... did you do any deadening to the doors?


----------



## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

petern23 said:


> The ID Max has really deep screw holes on the basket - not just 1/2mm of metal like most subs I've worked with. If you don't drill your holes perfectly, the screws won't fit all the way around. I made the mistake of using "hurricane nuts" instead of T-nuts, so I got a screw stuck in the box and had to Dremel it out. Hence, the mounting holes had to be rotated and the sub isn't straight now. Also, the cutout for the IDMax is actually 11+1/8" if you're using a circle jig.


I've done that same thing. PITA to remove!

Did you give thought to trying that IDMAX infinite baffle? I would totally try it if I had a real trunk.


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

You want some real SQ out of that sub,go sealed.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

No thanks, I'm enjoying the output of ported. Today I installed a bass knob so that I can control the sub level.

I also cut pieces to create some dividers in the trunk so I can store things on the sides without worrying about it sliding into my sub. This may turn into an amp rack in the future. It will be carpeted, as will the box, once I get the stuff ordered from Parts Express.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

I created an MDF ring to mount on the front of the box so I can rotate the mounting holes - they were drilled wrong the first time and the IDMax's thick mounting ring is not forgiving of the slightest mistake.










I did this on an old box I made for a pair of IDQ's and it worked great. Here's a picture:


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

New pictures:



















And a blurry picture of the finished trunk.


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Simple and clean. Nice. It does keep the trunk separated well.

I would paint the inside of that port to match another color in the trunk, like the aqua color on the sub cone, or black, or gray, or whatever.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

Better picture of the trunk:










Maybe I'll paint the port next weekend.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

you given any thought to take the ID max IB? ive heard em in IB and they play so nice!


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

eviling said:


> you given any thought to take the ID max IB? ive heard em in IB and they play so nice!


...or get a flared port


----------



## ikoolguy (Oct 23, 2009)

how do you like the bit 10 and was it hard to install it?


----------



## rysc86 (Aug 2, 2011)

nice build. whats the box tuned to? i had one in the past. barely noticed a difference in sq from when i had it sealed vs ported. i would recommend giving it a slot or at least aeroports. I had a box with 2 3" pvc ports and it sounded a lil better with the increased area of the slotport


----------



## hokiruu (Dec 16, 2010)

Wow! Nice and clean system and install!


----------



## GoodyearJ (May 4, 2011)

Nice setup. How do you like the I'd sub?


----------



## Old Skewl (May 30, 2011)

Turned out nice! Clean and simple!


----------



## LunchboxCritter (Mar 8, 2011)

Clean setup and nice equipment. 

I would suggest that you try fiberglassing, with the ability (router & jig) to cut those rings, it's really easy and makes installs much cleaner. Fiberglassforums.com is a great place to do research.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

ikoolguy said:


> how do you like the bit 10 and was it hard to install it?


The Bit Ten was actually done by the shop and they had a hard time getting it installed. Mine was the first one the installer had worked with. I was told it would be done by 5PM on the first day, but it took them two days to get it working completely.

For some unknown reason, it wouldn't stay turned on from the speaker level inputs. I took it to the local Audison rep and he set it up to turn on from the constant power source in order to run the initial setup. It worked fine until I took it back the next day to complete the installation. We unplugged it and then had the same problem again. The installer had to wire it to the ignition to get a turn on source because there was no extra accessory source at the fuse box.

Then I had a noise problem, which was fixed by turning the gains on the amp down to 4V and turning down the volume on the Bit Ten by 4db. The installer didn't do any gain/level adjustments because I had put in the amps myself and I didn't buy them from that shop.

I still have a little hum from my sub, but I used an Streetwires non-shielded RCA to the PDX-M12. The highs and mids are Knukonceptz Karma SS and again, I have no noise/hiss after turning down the volume a little on the Bit Ten. If the stereo is playing, you don't hear the sub hum at all, and I can turn it down with my bass knob if I'm driving without anything playing, although I don't know why anyone would ever do that!

All that being said, I'm having some problems with the Bit Ten crashing every morning. After about 1 minute of driving, the unit plays white noise through the speakers. If I turn off the ignition and turn it on again, it works fine. This usually only happens after the car has been sitting for a long time, like 12+ hours. It almost never happens in the mid-day or evening when I'm driving home from work. I really need to take it back to the shop and see if there's a firmware fix or if I need the unit replaced, but I haven't had a chance in the past 2 weeks.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

GoodyearJ said:


> Nice setup. How do you like the I'd sub?


The IDMax is fantastic. It handles any type of music you throw at it and blends well with the mids, although I have the filter type set to Butterworth for the sub and LR for the mid. I know this is "wrong," but the highs are way to harsh otherwise, even with the highs/mids at 3khz.

I have the crossover point at 70hz 24db/octave for the sub and overlapped it at 60hz HPF for the mid. When I play a 60hz tone on just the mids, however, I barely get any output, so I figure they're rolling off somewhere between 60-70 by themselves. The Bit Ten only allows for xover points in 10hz steps, so I can't do it at 65. In that respect, I miss the flexibility of the PPI DCX-730, but the cold weather issues with that processor made me hate it.

I don't know about taking it IB, though, as others have suggested. I'm already giving it a bit more power than its rated for. Doesn't IB greatly reduce the power handling?


----------



## s4k4zulu (Mar 2, 2010)

Sweet setup


----------



## jaikai (Aug 8, 2011)

Nice build. Very clean. 

Though, I'd like to see the amps when I pop the trunk.


----------



## ReticulatingPigeonElf (Sep 22, 2010)

petern23 said:


> The Bit Ten was actually done by the shop and they had a hard time getting it installed. Mine was the first one the installer had worked with. I was told it would be done by 5PM on the first day, but it took them two days to get it working completely.
> 
> For some unknown reason, it wouldn't stay turned on from the speaker level inputs. I took it to the local Audison rep and he set it up to turn on from the constant power source in order to run the initial setup. It worked fine until I took it back the next day to complete the installation. We unplugged it and then had the same problem again. The installer had to wire it to the ignition to get a turn on source because there was no extra accessory source at the fuse box.
> 
> ...


If it comes down to it, you could always just go low-level with an aftermarket headunit connected via RCA to the Bit Ten's aux - that's how I'm using it and I've yet to encounter any problems.

I briefly considered going back to my OEM deck for a high-level install, but with more variables to deal with and a greater likelyhood of encountering wonky behavior, I thought it'd be more hassle than it's worth.


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

Turns out the problem was specific to my Bit.Ten. I got it replaced and have had few problems since. Every once in a while it doesn't turn on the amps, but works fine after I power-cycle it.


----------



## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

Nice build. I've been looking at PDX-F6 as I can get it for real cheap, what's you thoughts on it, any noise or pop's with it? Would you consider buying it again?


----------



## petern23 (Oct 9, 2006)

stockley.rod said:


> Nice build. I've been looking at PDX-F6 as I can get it for real cheap, what's you thoughts on it, any noise or pop's with it? Would you consider buying it again?


No problems with this amp, it is wonderful. It's underrated - actual power is around 125/channel.


----------



## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

Well hopefully the F6 is trouble free as well, thanks for your input on the PDX line. :thumbsup:


----------

