# Basic Toyota ZRE152 Corolla/Auris SQ Install



## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Hey Guys,

This is going to be a pretty slow build in an Aussie Toyota Corolla Hatch Levin ZR.

My gear is currently installed in my Mazda 3 (see the BL Mazda3 Build Log here). My hands are pretty full with our 9 month old, so this will be updates maybe once every fortnight etc.

Planned gear list:

* FullRiver Battery
* Audison Battery Terminals
* HAT L1 Ring Radiators, L3SE & L6SE
* Image Dynamics IDMAX12D4V3
* Helix P SIX DSP (front stage)
* JL Audio HD1200/1 (sub stage)
* Headunit - unknown, 80PRS or Double-Din with CarPlay
* Monster Jr RCAs
* Custom 12V AirportExpress for AirPlay Optical out

Here is a quick pov pic of the Corolla:









The plan is the Tweet and mid are in custom A-Pillars in the little front windows and the Midbass in the factory stock location.

The sub will go in the spare wheel well with my first attempt at a basic SiS-style false floor.

First cab off the rank will be sound deadening this weekend.

Thanks!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

I had a few mins spare while the baby was sleeping to tackle the outer skins of the passenger door (opposite for you yanks). I had 1 sheet of StP Bomb to split between the two front doors, so careful placement was required. This stuff is super thick (4mm) and pretty tough to cut, but got there in the end. I also placed a StP Crystal Lens for the back wave behind the mid bass location (not pictured).

I also applied some spare StP Silver (1.8mm) to the door trim to add some weight. I was planning on applying a roll of StP BTP 5 (5mm open cell foam). But the it comes with factory jute, so that will do. 

Hopefully today I'll get a chance to do the inner skin. The plan is a sheet of Dynamat with a sheet of Gladen-Multi on top.


























Or should I take off the jute and apply the open cell foam?


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Got a little more work done today.

Finished the passenger door outer skin with a layer of Gladen-Multi.









Then I started the painful task of pulling apart the car to run wiring. I did the left side speaker wire first. I utilised the factory channel to secure the wiring. I figured if it's good enough for Toyota, it's good enough for me, no need for a million zip ties etc.



















I used 16awg wire since my little P SIX DSP only does 120W/channel 

I also completely covered the boot in CLD/Dynamat, but no pic of that


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Micro update

Got a job done today that I've been dreading, running the main power wire. These Corollas have a factory grommet with an opening for an additional 8ga cable for the JBL add on system. This hole was enlarged with some difficulty and the wire passed through, all the way to the boot. I will tech flex this once the terminals and relay are installed


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Another micro update:

I've finally finished the sound deadening of this car with the drivers door. I ran out of Gladen so tried out SoundSkins. Very nice product! But required a lot of cuts to allow the door trim back on. Usual deal of StP Bomb on the outer skin (plus StP Crystal Lens) + Dynamat and SecondSkin on the inner skin.









I've also finished running all the wiring to the boot, I ran the RCAs and the RHS speaker wiring in the factory channel. Excuse the dirty car, it needs a vacuum!









My 25mm HDPE has arrived for the speaker baffles and a nutsert tool to add some threads to the factory bolt holes (factory speaker is riveted on). All I have is a jigsaw, so that will do for now 

Hopefully will have some updates in a few days.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Seems like it's just me in this thread, but it's a good way to document everything 

Over the past few days I've had a little time to get the mid bass mounted. (Process is same for left/right). I had a bit of trouble cutting the 25mm HDPE with the jigsaw (even with the right blade and slow speed) compared to the 13mm stuff I've used in the past. But I got there in the end. It's pretty rough, but thankfully won't be seen. I'd like to buy a router when it comes for the boot install.

Rings cut









I bought a nutsert tool to enable me to use the factory mounting locations without any extra drilling. This is a seriously useful tool! I use M5 threads and M5 stainless steel allen drive bolts to mount the spacers (see final pic).









I then marked the mounting holes for the L6SE mid bass drivers. I had some threaded inserts in the cupboard from my previous build. In hindsight, I think tee-nuts are a little more easier to use due to the 'give' they provide if the insert isn't 100% aligned. But I got there in the end. These are an M4 thread and the drivers were mounted with M4 stainless bolts with a countersunk allen drive.









I think added a ring of Gladen Multi to seal the driver to the spacer, this is much nicer than using foam tape as it isn't sticky but compresses to create a nice seal  Apologies for the poor pic, the lighting is poor in the garage! You can see the driver mounted and the machined bolts I used to mount the driver and spacer.









OCD also got the best of me and I went back and zip tied all the wires running down the factory channel. The SQ competition here in Australia doesn't check these sort of things, but it helps me sleep at night


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Badass gear and I love the car and where your install is going! March on!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Onto the more fun part of builds, the fabrication part. Not much in this post but just some ideas of what I'm thinking in terms of A-Pillars. The Corolla has some nice side windows that I'd like to mount the Tweet/Mid into. I'm going to get a 100% tint applied so that no-one can see the back of the drivers and for UV protection.

Pillars









A while ago, a good friend of mine with a 3D printer made these baffles for me and a 3D printed grill. We're going to re-do the grill to give it a bit of a dome and to add a rabbet for fixing the grill cloth, but this is the initial concept. You'll notice there is an allowance for trimming in the mounting as these pillars will be with foam backed headliner material.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Well this puts things on hold for a while 

No one hurt and I wasn't at fault so doesn't cost other than downtime...








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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

^^^Those 3D printed baffles look great!!! Keep up the good work!

I'm glad nobody was hurt in your accident.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Phew! Its been a long time since I've done any work on the Corolla. The smash people did a great job and it's looking all sweet, but I've lost a bit of motivation.

My family are away this weekend, so it's prime time for some pillar action.

Pillars cut









Baffles mounted. I don't have a laser, so they were sorta aiming somewhere to the opposite B-Pillar.









Left side stretched and CA glued solid









At this point, I'm out of CA, so I'll pick this up soon


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

And to finish things off for the day. I ran out of fg-reinforced filler and normal filler, so couldn't finish it all off today sadly.

Right side cloth stretched and CA set









Milkshake baby! Love this process. Gets all the gaps nice and easy. 









More tomorrow


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Got these all tidied up today. Hit the edges with the dremel to ensure everything fits ok.

Test fit.









I'm *very* happy with how these turned out...









First layer of filler, fibreglass-reinforced.









Final layer of normal filler all sanded. You'll also note I cut a piece in the base of the pillar, so the L3SE can breath into the dash 









The final finish is a bit rough, but these will be trimmed by a pro shop (I don't even bother attempting to trim) in headliner foam-backed matching material.

Thanks!


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I can dig it 

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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Two things.

1. You might want to be careful about that vent. Turning on the heater and blasting directly into a otherwise sealed enclosure could be very bad for the speaker. 

2. When your doing your tune. Try mounting your tweeter a little higher. The way you have it is going to have immediate diffraction. Might be something to play with during tuning

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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Two things.
> 
> 1. You might want to be careful about that vent. Turning on the heater and blasting directly into a otherwise sealed enclosure could be very bad for the speaker.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the constructive criticism. 

In Aus, it's pretty much hot all the time, so the front vents are rare. I figure if speakers are built to sit in 122F temp all day, then a little warm air isn't going to hurt, especially since it's leaky as 

Speaker placement is always a compromise isn't it! You might be right re tweeter close to the glass, but it was a balancing act of making the car drivable and having everything on a common baffle.

Hopefully it sounds ok.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

thebookfreak58 said:


> Thanks for the constructive criticism.
> 
> In Aus, it's pretty much hot all the time, so the front vents are rare. I figure if speakers are built to sit in 122F temp all day, then a little warm air isn't going to hurt, especially since it's leaky as
> 
> ...


Actually what I meant was that your tweeter is inset in the wood(flush mounted) and then has the diffraction directly into the raised edge around the baffle

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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Some quick pics of the new grills printing. I asked a friend to update his original design, giving the grill a dome for added strength and aesthetics.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Been a bit slow with updates. I've started the base of the boot, but due to a heatwave I haven't made much progress on that. Hopefully will have some photos soon.

I dropped the pillars and grills at the trimmers today, they did an excellent job as you can see. They wrapped in matching Corolla foam backed headliner material. Extremely happy with the result.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Very slow progress on my part. I've been working on this piece for about a month haha!

Just need to built the top half of the box then I can get stuck into the glassing 

I like how I can use the four factory mounting points to secure the whole thing!


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

^^Looking really good!!!! Pillars look amazing!!!


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## almatias (Nov 16, 2012)

Subscribe


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Niebur3 said:


> ^^Looking really good!!!! Pillars look amazing!!!


Cheers!

Can't wait to fit them. Just gotta pull all the gear out of the Mazda first


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

Very nice work. By any chance have you ever compared the Helix p6 to the JL HD600/4?


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Pillars in  No drivers installed yet.










Also, built a quick HDPE mount for my Stinger circuit breaker. I nutserted into a factory hole to mount it.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Time to kick things off again for the Easter long weekend 



















Glassing tomorrow


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Nice pillars. You friend did a great job tooling them off the 3D printer. Attention to detail pays off in the long run. Awesome build so far.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> Nice pillars. You friend did a great job tooling them off the 3D printer. Attention to detail pays off in the long run. Awesome build so far.


Cheers!

Its a super slow build but hopefully it pays off


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Some progress!

After two layers of 600gsm CSM. Popped clean out!










Final layers curing. Big day, but it's done! 6 layers in total  Hopefully it's solid as. Will get covered in milkshake and spray sound deadener later.










Tomorrow, hopefully will cut the main baffle.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Bro those pillars are the tits!!! And those grills cap it off !! Love it all !!! Aweosme work! Man those pillars came out perfectly! They blend very well.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

SPAZ said:


> Very nice work. By any chance have you ever compared the Helix p6 to the JL HD600/4?


Whoops, I never replied to this. Ironically yes I have done that swap, went from the HD600/4 to the P6 in the Mazda. I found the P6 sounded a little more 'warm'? But it was very very minor.



optimaprime said:


> Bro those pillars are the tits!!! And those grills cap it off !! Love it all !!! Aweosme work! Man those pillars came out perfectly! They blend very well.


Thanks!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

More public holiday progress (ANZAC day in Australia)

Top baffle cut and mounted. This is made up of 2 x 18mm MDF boards glued together.









Bought some new toys for this part of the build. Makita trimmer and plunge attachment. Fits the jasper jig perfect!

















Checking the height. Final result will be about 15mm higher than factory which is ok, still have access to the factory clipping points.









I had to notch out a small part of the baffle to clear a factory lip.









Finally, the first layer, this will be the beauty board with cutouts for the sub and P SIX DSP. This is a 9mm layer. Another 9mm layer will have the trim piece and grille. The sides will be filled in with a piece of 18mm MDF.









Slow progress but getting there


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Another minor update.

I re-did the curve against the back of the boot. I used a trick I saw on the CAF videos, using a disc and pencil (in this case, a washer) to trace the contour. Came out perfect!









I also managed to retain the factory clips which I'm very happy with.









And finally, I built some supports for the side pieces to sit on.









Another piece you I didn't photograph, I built the second layer of the boot, the piece that will have the bigger cutout for the grille.

Next steps, cut the side pieces and drill the centre hole for the main cut outs


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Side pieces done! This was an incredibly fiddly process, but got there in the end. Easily 4hrs work in just those two small side pieces. Still have some access to those factory clip points too.

I also cut and laminated the spacers for the amps.









The P SIX DSP (which will be seen)









and the JL HD1200/1 (which will be hidden)


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Weekend update!

I managed to cut the main holes in the baffle and beauty board layers. Was a bit of fun cutting the 36mm baffle!


















You can see where the amp window will be showing off the P SIX DSP.

I also managed to snag a second hand Alpine ILX-007E headhunt for $250AUD / $190 USD. 2 hrs later, it's in!









I didn't take a snap of the wiring harness but it was all soldered and wrapped in Tesa tape.


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## mhubeny180sx (May 8, 2017)

wow, i like those pillars


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Heck yeah! Nice build so far for sure!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Minor works today.

I did a full coating of a milkshake (resin + filler) to add strength and seal anything I may have missed. I then sprayed a full coating of spray body deadener too.

I then threaded through the wiring and sealed with silicone. You'll notice I also sprayed the whole base black. No one likes raw MDF.









Slightly off topic, but I just got my set of custom in-ear monitors too! From MN, these Alclair Dual XBs sound so awesome and fit great too  Will make drumming much better!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

I was a bit sick this weekend so didn't get as much done as I'd like, but I got the sub in!

M5 threaded inserts and a small ring of CCF to seal off the driver. I also stuffed the box (which is exactly 1.5cuft by the way!) of fibreglass wool.









I then completed the trim board, showing where the P SIX will be displayed. I still need to add a chamfer and rabbet for the material. This board will hopefully be trimmed in vinyl to accent the carpet.









I then cut out the female and male (using the negative) piece for the grill. It isn't perfect so will need some sanding and tweaking to look right, but I'm not too fussed. This my first attempt at a false floor and boot install so can't be too harsh!


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Quick update. I've been a bit sick so no fabrication work. However, I've pulled out all the gear from my former car, the Mazda -> Build Log.

With the P SIX DSP out, I could finally install the HEC-BT module I bought years ago.
Before:









After:









I've also ordered a Fullriver HC35 battery, to replace the factory one. This will allow me to have a dual positive post, retaining the factory wiring.


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## lowcel (Dec 28, 2014)

Your install is looking great! Looking forward to your next update.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Had a few hrs today to continue and complete (hooray!) the wood/router section of this build.

I completed the grill piece









Test fit (and showing the fixed female piece)









A few steps in this shot. I added a rabbet for the grill mesh to sit in. Added a chamfer on all the edges. I'm really really happy with how it turned out, the chamfer adds a real depth to it all.









I then added a rabbet on the underside of all the pieces for when they are trimmed, for easy wrapping.









Finally! No more router work haha! It was fun, but very time consuming and dusty!

Next step to see the local car shop for the grill mesh and trimming.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Got the front stage drivers installed tonight


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

I decided to re-make the grille piece from one of the previous posts to allow a bar in the middle for strength.

I also bought some perforated steel and cut it to size. Probably one of the scariest things I've done! The jigsaw was bouncing all around...


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## Nineteen69Mach1 (May 30, 2017)

Looks great bud. Enjoying the post.


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## thornygravy (May 28, 2016)

I love this.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

My local trimmers once again have turned my shoddy work into something special.

Show off mode









I chose a nice black vinyl to accent the matching carpet.

Stealth mode.









My Fullriver HC35 also arrived. Just waiting on some battery terminals, and we're off to terminate all the wiring.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

No updates for a few weeks but I've been waiting for some parts to arrive. Finally everything is here (had to find a 3/8in battery post for the side mount adaptors) I can do the engine wiring.

In the mean time, I've been busy!

I cut the factory floor mat, as to not damage the trimmed carpet.









I then started the main power wiring. I am leaving the speaker wires disconnected until the main DSP input gain is set. I tried to tie everything down as neatly as possible.

































If you look in the earlier pictures, I had built a small bracket for the circuit breaker. Upon testing this, it hit the bonnet. So I removed the entire bracket and knocked up something simple in Tinkercad (as you can see, I can't even compare to my friend who did the other 3D parts)










Final product:

















I used stainless bolts and nuts to secure everything.

Where it'll mount (on the factory battery hold-down)

















I then tidied up where the aux in and USB in for the headhunt come out. There is no-where neat for an iPhone to sit, so for now it all sits on the passenger seat.









Hopefully tomorrow I can install the new battery, terminals and ground upgrade and fire it all up!


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## Swaglife81 (Oct 15, 2016)

Loving the build, it's always a great sense of accomplishment when you get close to finishing. Was all the trimmings of the trunk setup done with the Makita trimmer and plunger? Or you had other tools at your deposal? Since you want a dash mat, let one of those shops that are doing your pods cut you out a clean mat with a trim on it. Right now it looks like you cut a piece of thin carpet and threw it on your dash. You got a great deal on a headunit that mirrors your iPhone for less than $200, that is awesome.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Swaglife81 said:


> Loving the build, it's always a great sense of accomplishment when you get close to finishing. Was all the trimmings of the trunk setup done with the Makita trimmer and plunger? Or you had other tools at your deposal? Since you want a dash mat, let one of those shops that are doing your pods cut you out a clean mat with a trim on it. Right now it looks like you cut a piece of thin carpet and threw it on your dash. You got a great deal on a headunit that mirrors your iPhone for less than $200, that is awesome.


Thanks! Yes, very close!

Yeah the whole boot was built with a cheap $30 jigsaw, fibreglass, Bosch Skill Saw and the Makita Trimmer/Router. Shows you don't need fancy tools for simple stuff. But in reality there are heaps of imperfections that would never be allowed to leave a shop.

The dash mat that's there is custom made for the Corolla, that's just how they are in Aus! Or do you mean a matching trim colour one? If so, I think it'd be quite reflective in the glass?

Yeah CarPlay rocks! Unit has many quirks, but it's ok till someone builds something decent.


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

Well! The build draws to an end. It's been almost 12months since I purchased this car and began this build. With the fam away this weekend, I had some time to finish it all off...

First up, my HIDs have been playing up and being 10 years old were due for a change. I chose these D4S Osram Cool Blue Intense. Will try at night, but they review well and apparently have no hint of blue (not keen on the 'ricer look).









I then upgraded the battery to a FullRiver HC35, retaining the factory positive connections (as you can see on the left). I used Audison terminals with a built in fuse and upgraded the earth to 1/0AWG. The battery isn't a perfect fit, so I will need to monitor how the factor clamp holds it down.

















I utilised the factory ground point, removing the old 8AWG negative, and retaining for when the car is sold. No wires were cut at all in the engine bay which I'm really happy by. My previous car had some changes to the wiring and it made it really hard to go back to stock.

As I hinted before, the cheap Alpine ILX-007E deck doesn't have any controls to disable the internal amp which I find a bit silly. Anyway, I cut the wiring I had soldered up to remove the connections to the rear speakers and the front tweets (which are still OEM). All neatly wrapped in Tesa tape.









I then set the gains with the speaker wires disconnected.

I then connected and completed the boot wiring. You can see the completed finish below. I also installed a fire extinguisher which is worth a 'safety' point in the local SQ competition. 









I also labelled each speaker wire with a P-Touch label, then secured using clear heat shrink.









And that's it! The system obviously has zero tuning, but that's for another day. I did a quick check with a 0-bit track and there is no engine wine or noise at all to speak of 

Very pleased with how this has all turned out and pretty proud that I did it all myself (well...except the trimming).

Thanks for following! Hopefully this is useful for anyone else looking for a Toyota Corolla/Auris ZRE152 (2007-2012) Hatch build


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

I just read through your build log and I must say stellar install. 

Your pillars came out so well. I have to admit, I didn't care for the look before they were upholstered, but once the foam backed headliner was added, it took them to the next level.

How many builds have you completed before this? 

Great work man, you should be proud. I know I would be. 


"...I also installed a fire extinguisher which is worth a 'safety' point in the local SQ competition..." competitions, lol. 

AFFF adds the last bit of perceived air/space in between the instruments. You can hear the space in between, man! ? 

Sorry for the last bit...

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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Beautiful work


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## thebookfreak58 (Jun 18, 2012)

^^ Cheers Babs! Now to try the AudioTools app 




Weightless said:


> I just read through your build log and I must say stellar install.
> 
> Your pillars came out so well. I have to admit, I didn't care for the look before they were upholstered, but once the foam backed headliner was added, it took them to the next level.
> 
> ...


Cheers mate!

This is my first full on build where i've done it all myself. In my previous car (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...247489-simple-sq-build-2010-bl-mazda-3-a.html) I did some of the fabrication work (sails, pillars, sub box and mid baffles), but a local store did the rest of the install.

Yeah I love the pillars, I can see how they would look a bit odd, but in real life they fit right in


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