# Mixing Subwoofer Impedances...



## Freedom First (May 17, 2010)

Can anyone provide a reason (that I can't seem to think of) for not mixing woofers of different impedance, provided the end result is a load that is suitable for a given amplifier?

Wiring scheme #1: I have a 4ohm DVC woofer, and a 2ohm DVC woofer. First one with coils wired in series yields 8 ohms, second with coils wired in series yields 4 ohms. Both woofers then wired in parallel would yield 2.66 ohms.

Wiring scheme #2: Same woofers, 4 ohm DVC wired parallel (2 ohm), 2 ohm DVC wired parallel (1 ohm). In series yields 3 ohms.

Any potential pitfalls with this? 

I should clarify: Subs would be same brand and size, just different VC configuration.


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## blazeplacid (May 19, 2008)

it will be ok

your final impedance and the amps ability to work at that impedance is what you need to worry about

if the amp will work at 2 ohms you will be ok


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2538_Wiring_Woofers.pdf


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## basicxj (Jan 1, 2008)

Freedom First said:


> Can anyone provide a reason (that I can't seem to think of) for not mixing woofers of different impedance, provided the end result is a load that is suitable for a given amplifier?
> 
> Wiring scheme #1: I have a 4ohm DVC woofer, and a 2ohm DVC woofer. First one with coils wired in series yields 8 ohms, second with coils wired in series yields 4 ohms. Both woofers then wired in parallel would yield 2.66 ohms.
> 
> ...


Pitfalls? 

Lets say your amplifier puts out 500 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. Connecting two identical 4 ohm woofers in parallel for the 2 ohm rated load would split the power equally, so you'd see 250 watts RMS into each woofer. The amp handles the load, the subs split power equally- provided the subs are wired in phase and their enclosure volumes are identical and not mounted in a way where they cancel each other's output, everything is good. 

Let's look at your scenario, wiring up two similar woofers that will each show the amp a different impedance...one problem is that even though the total load with coils on each wired in parallel is doable for your amplifier, the woofer wired to present 1 ohm will see twice the power compared to the woofer wired to present 2 ohms, so they will not be working together in unison. If the subs are not working together 100% while playing into the same enclosed listening environment (like the inside of a vehicle), you'll see interference- either _constructive_ interference (a peak in FR where output combines) or _destructive_ interference ( a null in FR where output cancels) due to the fact that with different amounts of input power going to each woofer they'll never really be responding in identical fashion to a common signal. Place both woofers into the same enclosure (or different enclosures firing along identical planes) and the problem compounds.

Making dissimilar woofers work and sound "OK" in the same install would require far more effort than swapping one out so you have two identical woofers that will work properly together. I would think the extra frustration and performance detriments would make it not worth your while.


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## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

Aside from the difference in received power, nothing should happen. Make sure they are in their own chamber of the enclosure (non shared). The fact that you are giving one of the subs double the power of the other one potentially could cause problems in a shared enclosure.


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## Freedom First (May 17, 2010)

basicxj said:


> Pitfalls?
> 
> Lets say your amplifier puts out 500 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. Connecting two identical 4 ohm woofers in parallel for the 2 ohm rated load would split the power equally, so you'd see 250 watts RMS into each woofer. The amp handles the load, the subs split power equally- provided the subs are wired in phase and their enclosure volumes are identical and not mounted in a way where they cancel each other's output, everything is good.
> 
> ...



Is this applicable even when the woofers are wired to present a MONO load to the amp? It's not that the amp is actually providing a different amount of power to each woofer, it's simply that the woofer is consuming (or processing) that power differently. And, more specifically, it's a difference in _current_. The amp is only going to see the end impedance, and output whatever it's rated power is, at that impedance. The amp I'll be using is rated down to 2ohm mono...


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Freedom First said:


> Can anyone provide a reason (that I can't seem to think of) for not mixing woofers of different impedance, provided the end result is a load that is suitable for a given amplifier?
> 
> Any potential pitfalls with this?
> 
> I should clarify: Subs would be same brand and size, just different VC configuration.


Current measured in amperes is drawn by the amount of resistance.

2 x the current will be drawn by the lower resistance sub because it will be half the measured Ohms of the larger sub.

*Best bet: **use two similar voice coil designed subwoofer*


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## Freedom First (May 17, 2010)

t3sn4f2 said:


> http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2538_Wiring_Woofers.pdf


THIS, from the posted PDF (Thanks, t3sn4f2!!):



> _2) If different type speakers are used in the same system, then they may or may not combine in a
> favorable manner; however, they should be wired in parallel to avoid the interaction of different
> impedance variations._


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

The sub with the lower impedance will receive twice the current as the other. In other words, It's not a good idea. The one sub will always play louder than the other one.


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## Freedom First (May 17, 2010)

Duly noted!

Thanks for the advice, guys!!


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## Ericdd (Jul 3, 2011)

I know this thread is old, but it fits a scenario I'm considering.

How would it be with 3 subs, 2-- 4 ohm and one 8 ohm? I could wire them all parallel, or I could wire the 2-- 4's in series and then parallel them to the 8.
I haven't purchased anything yet, but they're Old school Kicker freeair subs so I can't be choosey


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Same situation, the 4 ohm subs will see twice as much power to their voice coil than the 8 ohm model. They will play a little louder than the 8 ohm and if the divided up power exceeds the power handling of the 4 ohm models in the end, they'll have a shorter life than the 8 ohm model.


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## Ericdd (Jul 3, 2011)

Weigel21 said:


> Same situation, the 4 ohm subs will see twice as much power to their voice coil than the 8 ohm model. They will play a little louder than the 8 ohm and if the divided up power exceeds the power handling of the 4 ohm models in the end, they'll have a shorter life than the 8 ohm model.


but if I series the 2--4 ohm woofers they would match the 8 ohm in power right? then I'd have a 4 ohm mono load and all would be getting the same power right?


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## Weigel21 (Sep 8, 2014)

Sadly, no. 

In the case of wiring the two 4 ohms in series for an 8 ohm load and wiring them to an amplifier with the 8 ohm sub wired to the amplifier as well, the subs will still see different amounts of power. 

The two subs presenting an 8 ohm load may be getting the same amount of power as the single 8 ohm sub, but then that power is divided between the two 4 ohm subs, so they may only be getting half as much power as the 8 ohm. Though being less resistance, they "should" be seeing double the power as the 8 ohm. 

Kind of a a headache to wrap one's mind around, but the outcome in the end is the two 4 ohm subs will see a different amount of power as the 8 ohm sub, be it half as much or double, it will be different.


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## Justin Zazzi (May 28, 2012)

Further, impedance varies with frequency. The distribution of power between the woofers will be lopsided to begin with as Weigel21 and all the others above point out, *and* the distribution of power will also vary with frequency too.

Mixing subwoofers with different impedances is not nearly as good an idea as it sounds.


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## 4maze2 (Oct 9, 2021)

Ok I was considering mixing two woofers because I blew one with an amp meltdown so now I have speaker A and I dont want the trouble of obtaining another one. So I have one dual 2 that each coil will handle 2200 watts each probably rms at that. Also I have 1 speaker B And its dual 4 that will handle 2000 max each coil so I definitely don't want them to receive the same amount of power. They would be in a single chamber dual subwoofer ported box. The amp I would get to run them is a .5 stable 3156 watt amplifier going off of "certified" dyno testing not dynamic and assuming it's getting enough power because I'm pushing twice the amount of amperage that the vehicle and amplifier take holding 15 volts with 2 batteries. Would this work or would I smoke a sub, also one more thing I would be running all 4 coils in parallel. I have read the aforementioned warnings would it work?


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## 4maze2 (Oct 9, 2021)

"More info on the last post" I guess I was wondering if adding the dual 4 ohm or weaker speaker would offer a performance increase or should I just hook up the dual 2 ohm or stronger speaker by itself. The weaker speaker is a more efficient speaker and has a much higher sensitivity.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

4maze2 said:


> "More info on the last post" I guess I was wondering if adding the dual 4 ohm or weaker speaker would offer a performance increase or should I just hook up the dual 2 ohm or stronger speaker by itself. The weaker speaker is a more efficient speaker and has a much higher sensitivity.


Hook up one sub or the other by itself. Do not run two different make/model subs in one ported cabinet sharing the same airspace.


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## Selkec (Nov 18, 2018)

Grinder said:


> Hook up one sub or the other by itself. Do not run two different make/model subs in one ported cabinet sharing the same airspace.


This too ^. Definitely don’t run two different ohm woofers wired to the same amp or in the same box.


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## Playedyougot27 (4 mo ago)

Well I'll say this (this is at your own risk) I'm running two 4 ohm 12s and an 8 ohm 15 sub ( all SVC) on a monoblock amplifier. I wired the 12s to 8 ohms and treated them as a single 8 ohm speaker wired in the 15 to get 4 ohm load then wired series parallel to get 2ohm final load . And it sounds pretty freaking great. But my amp isn't anything big either it's a 2500 Power Acoustik monoblock and even at 2 ohms I'm only pushing like 650 watts. So I say it can be done just don't go crazy with your amp wattage and set your gain correctly


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## clay6885 (3 mo ago)

I've got SVC 10 in,12in mtx DVC in one sealed box pushed by a mono amp 600 watts @ 2oms


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

clay6885 said:


> I've got SVC 10 in,12in mtx DVC in one sealed box pushed by a mono amp 600 watts @ 2oms


So, a svc 10" (unknown impedance) 12" DVC ( also unknown impedance) in the same sealed box on a mono amp. How do you know it's a 2 ohm load at the amp? If it was a SVC 4 ohm and a DVC 2ohm wired in series it would give you a 4ohm load. Then wired in parallel at the amp. I'm I close. Maybe? But what I don't understand 😕 is why. Why all this MacGyvering for 600w. Is it really banging that hard that your willing to damage your equipment. 🤷🏽‍♂️ let me be the first to welcome you to DIYMA


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## clay6885 (3 mo ago)

ItsonlyaHONDA said:


> So, a svc 10" (unknown impedance) 12" DVC ( also unknown impedance) in the same sealed box on a mono amp. How do you know it's a 2 ohm load at the amp? If it was a SVC 4 ohm and a DVC 2ohm wired in series it would give you a 4ohm load. Then wired in parallel at the amp. I'm I close. Maybe? But what I don't understand 😕 is why. Why all this MacGyvering for 600w. Is it really banging that hard that your willing to damage your equipment. 🤷🏽‍♂️ let me be the first to welcome you to DIYMA


The dvc is mtk 12 4ohm and no idea what the 10 is ,I have it wired in series connection and there is other way I have found, series series connection,and parallel series connection,I really appreciate your help I can pull the sub and ck the ohm with my volt tester I just now thought of it,I haven't put audio in vehicles since the early 80s ,if u can think of anything that would help me it would be appreciated


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## clay6885 (3 mo ago)

clay6885 said:


> The dvc is mtk 12 4ohm and no idea what the 10 is ,I have it wired in series connection and there is other way I have found, series series connection,and parallel series connection,I really appreciate your help I can pull the sub and ck the ohm with my volt tester I just now thought of it,I haven't put audio in vehicles since the early 80s ,if u can think of anything that would help me it would be appreciated


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

clay6885 said:


> The dvc is mtk 12 4ohm and no idea what the 10 is ,I have it wired in series connection and there is other way I have found, series series connection,and parallel series connection,I really appreciate your help I can pull the sub and ck the ohm with my volt tester I just now thought of it,I haven't put audio in vehicles since the early 80s ,if u can think of anything that would help me it would be appreciated


Check the final impedance at the amp. Make sure it's not below the amps stable impedance. I would advise not to run 2 different subs sharing the same airspace it's bound for disaster.


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## clay6885 (3 mo ago)

Ok I'm pulling the 10 svc and just running the 12 don't need problems next ? What is the best way to connect the12 4ohm dvc to the amp??rms @4 ohms 300 watts and at 2 ohms is 600 watts sub is [email protected] 250 watts and thanks for the help


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

In parallel for the 600RMS @2ohm then set tha gains with a DMM (Digital multimeter) use a 50hz test tone at the source with the sub disconnected. Test AC voltage at the speaker output. 22.3v should be around 250w @2ohms you could use a -5db test tone if you want a little more output. You can do it by ear which a lot off ppl suggest but I don't trust my ears so I don't. Just an FYI on how I got 22.3v

250w × 2ohms =500 square root of 500= 22.360679775. There's more that goes along with this but if you use the search bar and type in "setting gains with DMM" you'll find a ton of threads about it.


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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

clay6885 said:


> The dvc is mtk 12 4ohm and no idea what the 10 is ,I have it wired in series connection and there is other way I have found, series series connection,and parallel series connection,I really appreciate your help I can pull the sub and ck the ohm with my volt tester I just now thought of it,I haven't put audio in vehicles since the early 80s ,if u can think of anything that would help me it would be appreciated


If you get the DC Impedance of all 3 coils then we can make an assumption on what the possible combinations would be, but it is not going to be pretty and is not advisable to run dissimilar subs in the same airspace.


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## jeffjmoreland1 (2 mo ago)

I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


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## TheTodd (Feb 11, 2016)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


That was a whole lotta wrong!


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


Congratulations. You win the award for the most idiotic first post.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


Nope. 

The subwoofers cannot share the same power evenly, it there impedances are different. The amp will put out power based on the final load is sees, then that power will be distributed according to Ohms Law. If the subs are different impendances, then the power will not be distributed evenly.


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


Dude? Really... how long did it take you to write that out. Lol I'd also like to see this 5 voice coil sub you speak of. 🤣 obviously you think resistance is futile.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.








Speakers in Series/Parallel Calculator - Geoff the Grey Geek


This calculator allows you to try various combinations of your speakers in series/parallel to see what the total impedance will be and what effect such a configuration will have on your amplifier.




geoffthegreygeek.com


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ItsonlyaHONDA said:


> Dude? Really... how long did it take you to write that out. Lol I'd also like to see this 5 voice coil sub you speak of. 🤣 obviously you think resistance is futile.


That made my day!


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## Drugsandsubs (4 mo ago)

I think I can dumb this down for most people. Forget the amp and what it’s rated at. Just pretend you are in the speaker wire taking a trip to your subwoofers say you have 2 subs of different ohms one 2 and ones 4. Now while you’re ridding your speaker wire to one of your subs can be any one 2 or the 4, power is not picky. So let’s say you go to the 4 first and the next go round you will go to the 2ohm. When you get to the 4 ohm sub you go through the voice coil windings really fast you’re like man that was fast I’m back at my amp/ starting point again now I want to go to my 2 ohm sub. And you get to your 2 ohm sub and the ride THROUGH the voice coil in your 2 ohm sub was twice as fast. That is where the sub draws more power because the subs voice coil being 2 ohms… LESS RESISTANCE THEN 4ohm sub. So power moves through it faster. Just using the word power to make it simple. Didn’t matter if you have dual voice coils of different ohms wired to be a suitable ohm for your amp that’s pushing out a final ohm that matches the sub. Had nothing to do with that. Didn’t matter if the power is split 50/50 because one of the 50s is going to get back before the other 50 Per say.


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

Drugsandsubs said:


> I think I can dumb this down for most people. Forget the amp and what it’s rated at. Just pretend you are in the speaker wire taking a trip to your subwoofers say you have 2 subs of different ohms one 2 and ones 4. Now while you’re ridding your speaker wire to one of your subs can be any one 2 or the 4, power is not picky. So let’s say you go to the 4 first and the next go round you will go to the 2ohm. When you get to the 4 ohm sub you go through the voice coil windings really fast you’re like man that was fast I’m back at my amp/ starting point again now I want to go to my 2 ohm sub. And you get to your 2 ohm sub and the ride THROUGH the voice coil in your 2 ohm sub was twice as fast. That is where the sub draws more power because the subs voice coil being 2 ohms… LESS RESISTANCE THEN 4ohm sub. So power moves through it faster. Just using the word power to make it simple. Didn’t matter if you have dual voice coils of different ohms wired to be a suitable ohm for your amp that’s pushing out a final ohm that matches the sub. Had nothing to do with that. Didn’t matter if the power is split 50/50 because one of the 50s is going to get back before the other 50 Per say.


I want to know what kinds of drugs you were taking when you rode your speaker wires through your subs. Lol 🤣 . Did you like the 4ohm or 2ohm ride better?


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Drugsandsubs said:


> I think I can dumb this down for most people. Forget the amp and what it’s rated at. Just pretend you are in the speaker wire taking a trip to your subwoofers say you have 2 subs of different ohms one 2 and ones 4. Now while you’re ridding your speaker wire to one of your subs can be any one 2 or the 4, power is not picky. So let’s say you go to the 4 first and the next go round you will go to the 2ohm. When you get to the 4 ohm sub you go through the voice coil windings really fast you’re like man that was fast I’m back at my amp/ starting point again now I want to go to my 2 ohm sub. And you get to your 2 ohm sub and the ride THROUGH the voice coil in your 2 ohm sub was twice as fast. That is where the sub draws more power because the subs voice coil being 2 ohms… LESS RESISTANCE THEN 4ohm sub. So power moves through it faster. Just using the word power to make it simple. Didn’t matter if you have dual voice coils of different ohms wired to be a suitable ohm for your amp that’s pushing out a final ohm that matches the sub. Had nothing to do with that. Didn’t matter if the power is split 50/50 because one of the 50s is going to get back before the other 50 Per say.


Don't mix dugs and subs...


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## ItsonlyaHONDA (Sep 9, 2021)

Grinder said:


> Don't mix dugs and subs...


You'll end up crushing your car with an Omega 40k lol


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## Drugsandsubs (4 mo ago)

ItsonlyaHONDA said:


> I want to know what kinds of drugs you were taking when you rode your speaker wires through your subs. Lol 🤣 . Did you like the 4ohm or 2ohm ride better?


Definitely the 4 ohm ride… the 2ohm was over way to quick. But the 2 ohm didn’t give me a hard time like the 4 ohm did. Also the 2 ohm was really needy and wanted me to keep going toward it. 💯


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

jeffjmoreland1 said:


> I know this old but there is a lot of bad info in here. You can wire anything you want together on a monoblock amp. One sub won’t get more power than the other one 🙄 the amp puts out the power depending on the final amount of impedance it sees. So if your final load is 3 and your amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms you will see around 750 watt’s depending on your voltage and both subs will share that power evenly. Now if one subwoofer is rated for a higher wattage then the other that’s when you will start hearing a difference because one subwoofer will be under powered. To put it simple your amp doesn’t know anything except for that it sees a certain load at the terminals and should put out X amount of power for that load. So if it gets a 1ohm load at the terminals it doesn’t care if you have a dual voice coil sub and a 5 voice coil sub and a 3 voice coil sub and one is a 10 inch and one is a 12 inch and one is a 15 inch. It only care what the final resistance is at the terminals. Whatever subwoofers will share what ever wattage that the amp creates. As far as sound goes I would definitely stick with subs that are rated the same. As long as they all have the same RMS rating you will be fine. Also make sure your amp can handle whatever resistance load you present to it. You can check what it actually is with a regular voltmeter. Make sure the battery is good cause it will give you faulty readings if they are not good.


Erm… no… it won’t be shared evenly… nice post that was totally incorrect in the first instance


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## dumdum (Feb 27, 2007)

ItsonlyaHONDA said:


> Dude? Really... how long did it take you to write that out. Lol I'd also like to see this 5 voice coil sub you speak of. 🤣 obviously you think resistance is futile.


He makes a sub called the omega something or other 😂😂


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