# 2011 STI Sedan stage 1.5 build



## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I'm not quite done yet (pictures to come this weekend) but figured I'd start up this thread.

I've seen quite a few hatch builds but no sedans so I figured I'd share my experiences.

I'll start with equipment list:
Kenwood DDX896
Clarion XH5410
Morel Elate 6 2 way
Axxes SW button adapter
Knu wiring
RM BXT II + p&S ensolite

This was all purchased a couple weeks ago and has already changed... Morel Elates are being sold and I have new mids and tweets on the way. 
The Kenwood is staying for sure. I really like the interface (it could be a little faster though) and it has some decent options for a double din HU.
The newer Impreza sedans have a slightly larger DD HU so I purchased a JDM bezel from IAperformance to fit the new head. It looks excellent.

I had thought about keeping the stock HU and running a 360.2 or a bit.1 but decided I couldn't stand the factory interface. It has a really blocky text display and the menus are awful to navigate.

The install:

So far it's not been too difficult. There's some great info on this forum and the STI forum on how to run wires.
I decided to run the power wire through the grommet where the hood latch cable passes. This is just above and to the left of the dead pedal. It's a 3 sectioned rubber grommet with the HL cable and a set of wires going through. This pops out into the inner fender and runs up to the engine. Some people have said this was a ghetto way to do it but it ends up much neater than using the grommet behind the intercooler. The grommet behind the IC is almost the middle of the firewall and would require a longer run of power cable (if you run power in the door channel). It's also a PIA to reach that grommet from the inside of the vehicle as it's behind the center console.
The grommet I used is super easy to reach with the kick panel out. And for the inner fender part I just popped a few plastic screws out and pulled the fender liner back. The power wire follows a bundle of wires from the same grommet up into the engine bay. This allows the fuse holder to sit pretty hidden on top of the fender (inside the engine bay).

The door wiring was fairly easy as well. Somebody on this forum posted about using a super long zip tie for pulling wires through the door tubing. Worked really well lubed up with the window cleaner. I did find that I had to slit the inner rubber sheating on the door boot to get the wires through. There's an extra inner sleeve I cut at the top.

I ran the power up one side and RCA up the other with each side's speaker wires. There's plenty of room in the door sills. Helpful hint - be VERY careful when pulling the lower sills... I broke a clip on all four. The clips on the ends are really in there and easy to break off. I'll be ordering 4 new sills. 

Next challenge was where to mount amp(s)... 
I spent a lot of time himming and hawing about this one. I was hoping there would be enough room over the spare tire but under the cover... not happening on this car. I also debated the trunk corners and under seats. trunk corners theres not enough support and I don't like underseat for a few reasons.
This version has 60/40 fold down seats which the previous STI sedans did not. I thought about building a box/rack behind the seats but would lose the passthrough.
I finally decided to mount a board to the back of the seat and attach the amp and crossovers to that. Seat back was easy to remove and I pulled back the carpet to find the metal frame and sheetmetal skin. Without fabricating something fancy I decided to drill 4 holes on the top and bottom (through the plywood) and use high strength zip ties to hold. These actually tie to the steel tubing at the top and bottom and the board isn't going anywhere. Might sound cheesy but sheet metal screws would just pull through the 20 gauge metal. That, and I didn't feel like really ripping apart the seat and welding in tubing.
Now I can retain my fold down seat function and the amp is out of the way. I need to clean up the wires and figure a way to protect them. Might even build a removeable partition if I feel ambitious. 

Door speaker mounting was pretty standard. I'm using the premade plastic spacers but those will get replaced when i install new mids. The tweets were lovingly forced into place in the stock sails by my lovely wife.  She has a lot more patience than I do. 
The stock tweets are teeny so pretty much any 3/4" or 1" tweet will require cutting of the sails. I'm planning on making it a little nicer with the new tweets. Got some inspriation from trevordj's Volvo build thread.

So far I have about 16-18 hours installing and that includes taking apart the back shelf to deaden and install foam. I still haven't touched the rear doors or trunk area with deadening or foam yet. Front doors are deadened and foamed.
I went back and forth on MLV... I even found a place that has it for $99 for just shy of 100sqft and only $50 shipping to me. I decided the extra weight and time invested to get 100% coverage with MLV wasn't worth it to me.

I will add some pictures this weekend when I take the doors apart.


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## s1monxsayz (Sep 17, 2010)

i was at a subaru dealership on saturday and was looking upgrade to a STi. Nice car, but all the dealerships in southern california have a 5k mark up. I guess i'll have to stick with my lancer haha.

The system you have sounds great and I do agree with you that the stock oem head unit is ugly as hell. Those things look like they are from the 90s lol. Post pics please!


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Don't let the markups scare you away. I walked in and test drove on a whim and got well under MSRP without haggling.
I really like that they brought the sedan back for the STI. I started digging the hatches but always liked the sedan better.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Lots of changes since I started this 3 weeks ago. 
Removed the Morel Elates and sold those. H-Audio(audible physics) XR6.5M for mid duty now. Had a Hertz ML280s set for highs but sold those to preorder the H-Audio AR duo. 

Moved my Rainbow amps over from my truck. Originally had the ipaul 4300 on a board on the back of the seat but couldn't fit the other amp on the smaller seatback(60/40 split). I built a plywood rack last weekend behind the seats. I plan on making a trim panel to hide the ugly box when I find the right carpet.

Installed the 360.2, which I now don't need because I don't have a tweeter to crossover.

Purchased a custom fit/premade subie enclosure for a 10" from Audio Integrations. Excellent quality box and fits like a glove. Put the DC level 3 10 from my truck in it. That may change though.

Yes, I did install the sub with cone 'upside down'.


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## axan2926 (Dec 10, 2010)

how do you like the AI sub enclosure? I just picked my 2011 sti sedan 2 weeks ago and I'm planning my audio upgrade. I wanted to reuse my idmax 12 sub but might consider something smaller. I do like the looks of that IA enclosure.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

It's awesome! I was hesitant to spend the money on it but it's definitely worth it.
The fit and finish is great and it comes with all the hardware. With the instructions it's super easy to install.
It's also sealed really well, I can't move the sub cone with my hands (without scary force).

They also have really good customer service. I had a couple questions and they got right back to me. They were even willing to make some last minute modifications to the baffle if I needed it.

I have a nice, custom mdf/fg enclosure in my truck too. Was handmade by a local fabricator. This is of the same level of quality. Bonus is that I didn't have to wait for the resin smell to dissipate because it was premade.


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## eugenile (Aug 2, 2009)

i hear the wrx yet again is faster than the sti lol. at least in a straight line.


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## Chayse (Nov 23, 2010)

Yes, only to 60 though. That's because the close ratio 6-speed in the STi forces a 2-3 shift before reaching 60 MPH and the WRX only needs a 1-2 shift with its 5-speed.
I still love my 2011 STi though and wouldn't trade it for a WRX.


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## axan2926 (Dec 10, 2010)

you don't go sti over wrx because it's "faster". You do it for superior tranny, braking and handling


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Wow, I got excited that somebody was actually interested in my build only to find spazzes arguing about WRX being faster than the STI...


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## Chayse (Nov 23, 2010)

We are interested. Otherwise, we wouldn't have come in here in the first place.
On topic, do you have any more pictures of the interior placement?

I have the JDM panel for my AVIC X920BT, and the Axxess unit for steering wheel controls, in my 2011.


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## misterbrister (Dec 28, 2010)

Have you done any deadening? My only ride in a WRX was a 2006 STI, and I remember it being very noisy.


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## jaydub (Feb 22, 2010)

I'm very excited to see your build. I'm considering a 2011 WRX so I'll be watching intently.


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## jace314 (Jan 30, 2010)

Hey lets see a couple shots of the ride on the outside! Hows the progress coming?


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## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

more pics please... new sub installed pics?


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## tlow98 (Oct 8, 2009)

looks awesome bud! i really like it. The new sti is like the M compared to the 335. M's and STI's are for enthusiast with means and heart.

enjoy it!


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

very nice stock looking clean cut build  I'm a big fan of keeping the stockish apperence.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks guys. I need to get my butt in gear and make a trim panel for the amp rack. I think something like hardboard covered with vinyl should be decent enough. Maybe this weekend since I have nothing to do.

I did a little bit of deadening in the car. The doors have BXTII on the inner and outer skins along with Ensolite. I wanted to have good midbass performance. The rear doors just have a layer or BXTII and Ensolite on the inner metal panel for some noise blockage. I also deadened the rear deck and trim panel and foamed it. I also deadened the trunk corners and sides. There were a lot of thin, large panels that resonated.
I must have done okay because I don't hear rattling when the bass hits and it sounds pretty up front. Oh yeah, back of the license plate has a layer of Ensolite too.

I installed a Massive Audio DC10 in place of the DC sound labs 10 this week. I will take some pictures for DAT.
It's definitely more efficient and it blends better with my front stage. Drum hits seem a lot crisper. The DC Sounds was pretty good but this is even better.

tlow98 - It's funny you mention the M3 vs 335. My last DD was a 335. I took kind of a lateral move but the STI is waaaaaaaay more fun than the 335. I won't get into details on the reason I won't buy another BMW here. Otherwise, I might have the M3.

Here's a couple shots from the last time there was sun here... haha
Since then I had 25% carbon tint done on all the windows. And now I have the WRX wing instead of the STI wing.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I'm patiently waiting on my ARduo from Mark at H-Audio. I ordered OEM a-pillars so I can mod those if I decide to put the AR3K in that spot.


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## jaydub (Feb 22, 2010)

Gorgeous. I just test drove a WRX sedan tonight and I really liked it. Considering 90% of my driving is during rush hour commuting, I just don't know if I can justify an STI but it's still really an amazing car.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hey Brocken,

got a quick question, how is the bass response in the cabin with the non-vented rear deck?

i am working on one right now and its been kicking my ass...lol

you know the contour of the floor, and i have to fit a ms8, 3 amps, two 10s all in the floor without raising the stock floor profile one inch 

but i looked at the rear deck and didnt see any obvious blank spaces that i feel comfortable cutting...so just curious 

thanks!

b


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## theRESONANCE (Aug 28, 2008)

I'm liking the install!

Get us a pic of of your front stage!! :]


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

simplicityinsound said:


> hey Brocken,
> 
> got a quick question, how is the bass response in the cabin with the non-vented rear deck?
> 
> ...


doh! I should check my own thread more often.
You've probably figured it out by now but I have excellent bass response with the sealed deck. I have a couple layers of matting and a layer of ensolite on the plastic deck panel and my bass blends with the rest of my music.
I have a Massive DC 10 in there now which sounds even better than the DC Sound Labs lvl 3 that's pictured.
I get plenty of punch from rock music and tight/deep bass from hip hop.
I think it just takes a little more power than some installs to overcome the trunk bass.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Finally got my front stage 'finished'. I'm hoping this is my last equipment change. So far I'm really impressed with the AR Duo from Audible Physics.
And I've been really happy with the Massive Audio DC 10" sub.
I do wish I had some more tuning capability but don't think a processor is in the cards yet.


Here's a start of my a-pillar builds. I read up on some installs by Bing and a couple other DIYMA guys and got a lot of helpful tips.
Epoxied the trim ring and dowels to the a-pillars after some in car mock up.
I wanted good sound but to also keep the car as stealthy as possible. 









I couldn't find the pictures I took of the wrapping/resin stage. I used a 50/50 cotton/poly shirt from my wife's closet and stretched it over the baffles. I used CA glue to hold it to the trim ring and back of the pillar. Then I used some Tap Plastics layup resin to harden.
Next step I mixed duraglass with resin to make a milkshake. This filled in behind the resined shirt for strength.

Here they are wrapped with grill cloth after filler and sanding. I do wish I'd listened to my body shop neighbor and spent more time filling and sanding. You can still see some imperfections with the grill cloth... maybe I'll fix them later.

















Here they are with speakers in and installed in the car.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Where is this DC10 sub you speak of? It fits in that enclosure, cause it looks massive. After reading up on it, you might have sold me on trying one. How much power are you running to it and at what impedance?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I'll take a pic of the Massive DC10. I had one somewhere but don't know what happened to it.
Fits just fine in that enclosure. The internal volume is just about spot on for the sub.
I also added the AI protector grill for the speaker too.
It's a d4 and I'm running it 2ohm load to the amp which is supposed to be 600-700 watts. I don't have it cranked anywhere near max though.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah i figured it out  by doing that Sti Sedan haha

but you are right, it works beautifully.

the only issue i had was that the very back corners of the rear deck cover vibrates against the window with bass, so i stuffed a lil piece of foam in there and that took it away instantly.

b


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Is that where the vibration comes from? I get that once in a while and it drives me nuts! Happens on rough roads too.
I thought it was clips and foamed the heck out of those.


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## Silver Supra (Feb 15, 2008)

Very nice. I love the STi and am also considering one for a DD.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

yeah just take apiece of foam or rubber or anything, and push it down the windshield and sandwich it between the rear deck corner and the rear window, see if that goes away.

b


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks! I'll try that tomorrow.

Here's a couple of shots of the Massive sub.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

where did you get that grille from?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Audio Integrations makes that grill to fit their sub enclosure.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Hmm, maybe I should change this to the '2.1' build...

I really liked the Audible Physics AR3K but wasn't happy with the midbass performance on the AR6K. My intent was to get a midbass driver to replace those and keep the AR3K... It just so happens that somebody was selling a Rainbow Vanadium Kick 3way so I figured what the hey. I could at the least use the 6.5" kickbass which I know rocks and try out the midrange.
Well, I really like the 4" Vanadium midrange so they're staying. I also like the CAL26 tweets. This set came with metal domes and I traded with someone to get silks. They're still way too loud but I determined it's the suck xovers and not the tweets. There's not enough adjustment and I think with how close the tweets are to the listener they're just too loud in comparison to the other drivers.
I had tried the 6.5" and 4" speakers active and they sounded great.

Anyway, I built new a-pillars which house the 4" and tweeters. I was going to run the tweets in the sails but had to build out the back of the pillars to hold the 4". Pics coming soon. I need to order some grill cloth or vinyl to cover them. Tried painting but it looks like poo even after hours and hours and hours of filling, sanding and painting.
They're plenty good for covering now but so many goober marks are revealed with paint. Just sucks because I spent half a weekend trying to finish those.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Nice! Can't wait to see pics! You gonna get a processor to run that 4-way setup active now?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Yup, just gave in and ordered an MS-8. I was trying to be cheap and avoid adding a processor but I'm tired of beating my head on the wall.
Work smarter, not harder. 
I just hope I'm done buying stuff. I don't mind tuning and tweeking a little as I go but I'm tired of swapping gear.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Now I have to decide how to power all the speakers too...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...r/104504-final-design-help-needed-please.html


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

where did you get the ark3k? thats the yellow mid range you have right? I been looking for one...


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Yes, the yellow speaker is the AR3K. I purchased mine from Mark at H-Audio/Audible Physics.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

No pics yet but I FINALLY 'finished' my install this weekend.

Got my revised pods back from my neighbor who did some priming and painting. They look awesome.
Installed those Friday afternoon and started installing the Zuki 6 channel.
Part of Saturday and yesterday were spent installing the MS-8 and tuning. 
I wasted about an hour tuning everything to find out I had a couple of bad RCA's. Replaced those and everything sounds great.

I do still have a turn on pop (I think from the MS-8). I didn't get the pop with just the Zuki hooked up. I have my remote power routing from the HU to the MS-8 and then to the amps.
I'm mostly worried about blowing a speaker. Well, it is annoying too.

Hopefully I'll have time to snap some pics and post up. Depends on if I fix the pop and how long that takes.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Nice! Looks like both of us finished things up over the weekend! I wanna see where your Zuki amp is gonna reside (JEALOUS!)! I'm having second thoughts on my amp selection and may end up trying something different. So how are your amps arranged now (physically placed as well as what power goes where and how)?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I'll snap some pictures with my real camera tonight. I could use my Evo for pictures but it sucks in low light.

I built a vertical rack behind the rear seats. Trunk facing side has the iPaul DM2000 and Zuki 6 channel (barely fit width wise together) and the seat facing side has the MS-8 and distribution blocks.
Can't use the fold down seats but I was able to keep a lot of useable trunk space and didn't have to remove the spare.
I have a full size truck for hauling stuff so I'm ok with no pass through.

I'm really happy with the Zuki. Sounds really clean and PLENTY of power for my 3 way Rainbow setup. I was concerned they'd push the Kickbass speakers but they have no problem.

Really hoping this is my final equipment list. As long as I get the MS-8 pop issue fixed I can't see a reason to change anything.


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## morgan18 (Dec 31, 2006)

I just finished mine for now before I tear it up again. If you ever want to meet up let me know pretty much free any time.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Yea, those zuki amps do like 175 a channel or something crazy. For the hell of it, you should bridge two of it's channels to your sub sometime and just see what it's like. And yea, I forgot you had the sedan. I really need my fold down rear seat, although I might be able to get away with just having the "60" portion usable.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I've had a lot going on lately Morgan but it would be nice if we could meet up some time.

The sucky thing in the Subaru is there aren't many other options. You can mount them under the seat and hope they don't get kicked... you can remove your spare and hope you don't get a flat in the middle of nowhere... The sides of the trunk aren't great mounting spots either.
You could build a flat amp tray towards the front of the trunk. I had considered doing that. You would still be able to use the pass through.


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## morgan18 (Dec 31, 2006)

Sounds good I am free pretty much anytime just let me know


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Bad news... after testing last night and confirming with the seller it's the Zuki causing the really bad pop. 

I was so excited to be done with my build and it finally sounded great. Now I have to pull the amp and figure out what to replace it with.
Suckiest part is Zuki refuses to acknowledge the product could be defective.

Sorry for the delay on pictures. I'm laying in bed with a bad flu bug today.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Noooooooo! Get some DLS ultimate amps. You won't be disappointed.


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## adhumston (Mar 1, 2009)

ecbmxer said:


> Noooooooo! Get some DLS ultimate amps. You won't be disappointed.


Sucks about the Zuki. But I agree, the DLS A series are great amps, especially for the price you can find them used! 

A question for you on the AR6k... Were you able to get your doors relatively sealed? I'm thinking of picking up an AR duo, but I'm concerned about the issues you had the AR6k.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

The doors are pretty well sealed. I didn't use anything ridged on the larger holes but did cover them with at least ensolite and then matting where I could.
The Rainbow Van Kicks in there now have plenty of impact. The Morel Elates had more noticeable midbass as well as the XR6.5M
The lack of midbass with the AR6K's could have still been something I did wrong... or it could be the difference in efficiency from the XR's to the AR's.


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## adhumston (Mar 1, 2009)

^^ thanks for the reply. One more quick question.. How much power were you giving the AR6ks?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

They were powered from an iPaul 4300. Supposed to be 90w per channel.


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## adhumston (Mar 1, 2009)

brocken said:


> They were powered from an iPaul 4300. Supposed to be 90w per channel.


Thanks man, appreciate the info. Great build and nice car btw! I may look for one in the future... I'm just partial to the hatchback myself.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

I finished my pods a few weeks back and my neighbor painted them for me (he works as a painter in a body shop). Getting pods ready for paint was WAY more prep than the first set I just wrapped in cloth. It was worth the effort in the end though.

































I also finished getting the final amp setup installed including the MS-8.
Due to issues with the Zuki I picked up a Rainbow iPaul 2400 from Don to go with the 4300 I already had. The 2400 is providing power to the Van Kicks and the 4300 powers the Van mids and CAL26.
MS-8 is super easy to setup and it really helps make the staging/imaging setup a piece of cake. The Rainbows already sound great but the MS-8 really pulls everything together.


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## RedMed427 (Feb 9, 2007)

Haha, people were always freaking out about a pillar gauge pods because of the airbags up there. I think those people would have a mental breakdown if they saw these. :tup: On the build! Gonna start my own 2011 wrx project soon myself


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

With extending the pods wider I made sure the protrusions were lower than the airbags.... just in case.


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Dude those look great! Do you have build pics from the pods? Are they a tight fit or do they go in just like stock? I'm gonna re-do mine from scratch cause the pod is separating from the pillar and is kind of misshapen. I think I'm gonna get JPM Coachworks to wrap them in black alacantara with red stitch.


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks!
I didn't document the pod build like my first set... I kinda forgot until I was almost done.
They fit way better than the first set, especially on the bottom. The old ones were built up too much where the pillars meet the dash and had to be crammed in.
On this set I made the pods drop right back to the pillars about an inch above where they contact the dash. That way it makes it easier to install since you have to tilt the pillars to get them in.

To get the curved out shape on the back of the pods I used the green floral foam for shape. My wife helped with that part since I have no patience for really tedious stuff. Then I wrapped the whole thing with stretchy swim suit material and used epoxy resin this time. Much better to work with and really sticks to the plastic.
Most of the filler work was done by the USC fairing compound that you mix with the epoxy. Super sandable.
Once I got it really close my neighbor did a few coats of high build and we'd block the pillars and primer again.

I thought about the JPM wrap on mine but on the other set he quoted quite a bit because of the drop on the pods. Hard to shape that contour.

Let me know if you have any more questions on your build. I'm still no expert but figured out a lot of things on this build.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

Very nice! I think you may be one of the only people on this site who has successfully painted A-pillars in their car. Awesome that your neighbor was able to help out.

How do the Rainbow midbasses compare to all of the other ones you have tried?


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## brocken (Apr 26, 2010)

It definitely helped having an expert giving me pointers. Biggest trick for getting the pods smooth with no waves is using a sanding block instead of just paper by hand. And on the inside curves use a hard, rounded edge. Just takes lots of filler and patience.

The Rainbow midbasses are awesome. Easily the most detailed and most impact and punch out of any I've listened to. They do really well even with low power but give them some extra and they're really impressive.
They were a night and day difference from the anemic AR6K's and even more punchy than the Morel Elates. All of this without sounding muddy or boomy.
All three of the Rainbow drivers are the best I've tried. The CAL26 might be slightly edged out by the ML280S I had but those were twice the price.
The Van 4" mids are as detailed as the AR3K's without some of the brightness. The staging for vocals and instruments is great with them off axis.

It's fun to go through all of my music and see how awesome it sounds. Metal, classical, blues, hip hop, rock... it all sounds awesome.
I popped the 2008 Miles Davis album in and was amazed at how all the brass sounded. I knew guitars and vocals were kick ass but hadn't listened to any blues yet. Man, it is awesome!
Only problem is... I get to work and want to sit in my car and keep listening.


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