# 2004 Ford F150: To get loud and sound good doing it.



## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Hello all. I've been around a few months, mostly reading/learning a lot but posting here and there. Just though i would start a thread to show you my install in my truck. I'm not close to done, but will continue to post more here as progress is made. I am in college, and often have a full truckload of people. I want this system to crank, but sound clean doing it. Also, keep in mind i am on a college students budget = i can't buy expensive stuff, so i have to work with what i can afford. Here is the equipment list:

-Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS
-ID CTX65cs components (passive, front doors)
-ID OEM mids (dedicated midbass plugs in front kicks)
-Eclipse XA4200
-USAmps XT800.2 (might use for rear fill, might not)
-2x JL Audio W1v2 (soon to be replaced with SI BMv2s when they come out)
-Power Acoustic monoblock (crappy old amp i have for subs, will also be replaced when i get the BMs).
-2 rolls Raamat
-Knukoncepts & Kicker wiring
-big3 upgrade
-Kinetik HC 1400
-Secondskin speaker tweaker deflex pads
-lots of techflex, zip ties, adhesive mounts, heatshrink etc.

The victim:










Some photos of equipment (stuff is still arriving, will add more pics as stuff gets here):


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

A few progress pictures (forgot to take pics of a lot of steps, but i'll post what i have)

I started by deadening the doors (yes, i will be sealing up the holes soon):



















I then moved on to the back wall and the rear floor:










I sealed up the air vents (this reduced a lot of exhaust and tires noise from my 35" mud terrains):










Boards mounted to rear wall, and 1 amp and crossovers mounted along with the remote unlock module:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Cutting midbass baffles for the doors. I rounded the edges and waterproofed them afterwards (no pics of that step unfortunately):




























Subwoofers in place under the rear seat:










That's all the pics i have for right now. I'll post more as i make progress, which is slow since i am taking a lot of units and working part time (plus its duck season ).

This is my first really extensive install, so I am open to comments and suggestions.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm looking forward to this build! I am in the same boat with my Ram installation. Slowly but surely, collecting and piecing together a first "professional" system. Keep up the good work! Nice choice of equipment too.


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Looks good so far and good job on the deadening, which IMO is the most timely matter of the install, so got a lot of the hard part out of the way. 

Nice looking truck as well.


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

DP FTL!


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

Looking good!
Here is a pic of my truck...









I did my install about 4 years ago..LOL! Other than going from 2 IDQ 10's in box under the rear seat with an ARC AUDIO 900.1, to an ID MAX and a recently purchase XTANT X001 amp! I still have my 8 years old MB Quart components with an 100x2 amp on those. I need to go back in and sound deaden it!

Do you have anypics of your ID midbass that was supposed to be mounted in the kicks? How do you like your ID components? Where did you get that rammat?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> Do you have anypics of your ID midbass that was supposed to be mounted in the kicks? How do you like your ID components? Where did you get that rammat?


The mids should be here soon, i'll get some pics as soon as i can find the battery charger to my camera. The ID components are pretty awesome, great components for the money. I only had them in for a day or so but took them out to reconfigure my amps and rewire everything...and of course havent made much progress. I should be getting a lot done over thanksgiving since i have a few days off.


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## fonque (May 30, 2008)

Where did you buy all the techflex and shrink tubing?


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

looking great so far. Definitely doing good on a college budget for sure. I started my first "real install" about a year ago after I had graduated college. 

+1 for it being a nice Ford too 

Looking forward to the rest of the progress.

BM's should be a great choice too in the future. I got a pair of V4 mags now and they sound amazing. I would love to try 4 BM's behind my back seat when they come out, especially if they sound even remotely as good as the mags.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

jdc753 said:


> looking great so far. Definitely doing good on a college budget for sure. I started my first "real install" about a year ago after I had graduated college.
> 
> +1 for it being a nice Ford too
> 
> ...


Thanks. I love this truck, i've been building it up for the last couple years all on my own budget (so its obviously a slow process) but shes really coming around.

I only have about 6" total space under the back seat (total space for box, subwoofers, and excursion) so the BMs will fit the bill nicely. I really would love some mags but thats a lot of power and space that i dont have.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

was that the 6.5" or the mid bass in the pic of cutting baffles for the doors?


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I don't see id oem on their site. What and where?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> I don't see id oem on their site. What and where?


Go to the classifieds sections. Search 'hessdawg" he sells them. $90 shipped, excellent deal!!


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

i hate to keep buggin you, but did you build the 8" kicks or buy them some where? Thanks i am thinking of redoing my system somewhat!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> i hate to keep buggin you, but did you build the 8" kicks or buy them some where? Thanks i am thinking of redoing my system somewhat!


No problem man. 

I actually havent done the mids in the kicks yet, that'll be the next step when i have time. I will be building them. I'm not a fan of most pre-fab stuff.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

The build is coming along nicely! Where in NorCal are you? I'm just east of Sacramento. 

Zach


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## loudstreetrides (Nov 10, 2008)

looking good so far keep us posted


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> The build is coming along nicely! Where in NorCal are you? I'm just east of Sacramento.
> 
> Zach


Do you have any experience tuning or building kicks? 

I'm located in Davis and sure could use a hand with making kicks since I'm a little clueless/inexperienced.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I'm not very experienced at tuning by any means. I have made door pods, dash pods, sub boxes for my car as well as a few sub boxes for friends. I'd be willing to help out when/where I can though. 

Are you still thinking about gettings some ID OEMs and putting them in the kicks? Have you seen BigRed's install? That is a GREAT location for a 8" midbass if you wanted to go that route.

Zach


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> I'm not very experienced at tuning by any means. I have made door pods, dash pods, sub boxes for my car as well as a few sub boxes for friends. I'd be willing to help out when/where I can though.
> 
> Are you still thinking about gettings some ID OEMs and putting them in the kicks? Have you seen BigRed's install? That is a GREAT location for a 8" midbass if you wanted to go that route.
> 
> Zach


Yes, I already have the ID OEMs. Once i get the rest of the install done, I could definitly use some help building kicks...that would be sweet. 

Would an 8" be a ton better than the OEMs? Only reason is because in my truck on the driver's side kick area, theres the parking brake release and park brake pedal so space is a little crammed.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

one more thing

How much damplifier pro did you buy to do your doors and a your rear wall
Sq. ft. or whatever


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> one more thing
> 
> How much damplifier pro did you buy to do your doors and a your rear wall
> Sq. ft. or whatever


That damplifier box is actually what the speaker tweaker kit came in.

The sound deadener i used is Raamat, www.raamaudio.com then products. i bought 2 rolls, have only used 1 so far. Still need to deaden the roof and front floor though. Each roll is ~65 sq ft or so. I used 2 layers in a lot of spots.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

did you also put Ensolite on it?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> did you also put Ensolite on it?


Nah, Ensolite is overrated IMO. I am however going to put some foam pads on the inner skin of the doors with deflex pads behind the mids.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Okay so today i flexed and ran the speaker wires to the driver's door, installed the 2nd amp, connected all the ground cables, ran RCAs, re-wired the subwoofers, flexed a bunch of power wire, ripped out all my old RCAs and power wire, etc. Tomorrow i'll do the passenger side, run the 1/0 (best route for this thick arse wire?), put the 880prs in, and re-install the front components.

Also, my ID OEM midbass drivers came in, they are BEASTLY. Friggin huge/heavy for 6.5s, im excited. Havent decided if i want to make kicks for them or to just toss them in the rear doors.

PS i know i didnt flex the ground wires or RCAs, and that is because i'll be adding a 3rd amp in the near future (for the ID OEMs) so i dont want to flex that stuff until everything is set in stone. 

A huge mess:










12awg from amp to x-over, 16awg to woofers/tweets:










Another mess/workstation:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Flexing speaker wire to be run to passenger front door:










Running RCAs:










Old 4awg wire vs. new 1/0:










Props to Kicker for making this awesome wire. Its ridiculously flexible for how thick it is, i really like this stuff. The distro blocks and fuse are beastly too.


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

coming along nicely friend!


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

Looking like some good progress for sure. 

That kicker wire sure is amazing.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

More pictures since i finally got my camera up and running again.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Ive had the components in for about a month now, and they do sound great. However, knowing how addicting this hobby is, I am already planning a 2-way active setup. These have been sitting in my room for about 3 weeks now (ID OEM):



















My crappy Power Acoustik mono makes a ton of noise on startup, and i can hear the fan from the drivers seat. Not to mention it is incredibly overrated, i have the gains nearly pegged just to push 2 JL w1s. It was time for a replacement, and it showed up a couple days ago:



















For tweeters, I am thinking about the Seas Neo aluminums that everyone here raves about. We shall see. I plan to do a bunch more deadening in the next couple days since my door panels are still buzzing a little, more pics to come.


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## tr0y_audi0 (Feb 13, 2007)

NICE, Keep it up..

PS: Is this Deckout your Ford F-??? Week?


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

What did you use to attach that MDF panel to your rear wall?

KR S'crewAugs


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

liquid nails i hope!! That is what i used...


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> liquid nails i hope!! That is what i used...


yessir!

And looky what i got:



















This + big3 = no problem with 1800 rms.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

thanks. You use the liquid nails to glue the MDF right to the RAAMAT? Looks also like you used a few sheet metal screws? Are these screwed into the metal on the back wall of the cab? If so did you do anything to seal them?

THanks for the patience. I need to add an additonal sub monoblock I got for christmas and want it on mdf on the back wall. Guess I'll also need to mount a fuse box to take the battery to the two amps. Currently I have only one direct to my existing 4 channel amp.


KRS'crewAugs


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

TBDAugs said:


> thanks. You use the liquid nails to glue the MDF right to the RAAMAT? Looks also like you used a few sheet metal screws? Are these screwed into the metal on the back wall of the cab? If so did you do anything to seal them?
> 
> THanks for the patience. I need to add an additonal sub monoblock I got for christmas and want it on mdf on the back wall. Guess I'll also need to mount a fuse box to take the battery to the two amps. Currently I have only one direct to my existing 4 channel amp.
> 
> ...


Yeah i used 1.5" sheetmetal screws to help mount the boards to the backwall. Run a single run of power wire to the rear wall, and use a mounted distribution block.


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## TBDAugs (Apr 3, 2007)

Thanks mSaLL

I appreciate the tips. Nice looking install. 

EnsoliteAugs


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

I would never use screws through the cab! I have had only liquid nails on my old amp rack with no screws for 4 or 5 years and no problems. I used to even go off-road back in the day. And NO issues!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

03z-71 said:


> I would never use screws through the cab! I have had only liquid nails on my old amp rack with no screws for 4 or 5 years and no problems. I used to even go off-road back in the day. And NO issues!


Understand that the F150 has 2 layers of metal on the back wall, about 1" apart. So my screws go through the first layer but no the second, so no screws go through all the way to the outside of the cab. Dunno if chevy does this.

FYI i do a ton of hunting in winter and ranch work during the summer, my truck sees a ton of off pavement abuse (i dont consider puddle hopping on gravel roads to be "offroading")


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> Nah, Ensolite is overrated IMO. I am however going to put some foam pads on the inner skin of the doors with deflex pads behind the mids.


What kind of pad are you going to use? Have you gotten it yet? And where did you get it. I've been looking to do something with pad or ensolite for my doors as well, cause I"m doing 8's in the doors and they're going to rattle like hell. But I can't seem to find anywhere to get ensolite in Sac. I was thinking of just using carpet pad, but not sure if that's the way to go either. Ideas?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> What kind of pad are you going to use? Have you gotten it yet? And where did you get it. I've been looking to do something with pad or ensolite for my doors as well, cause I"m doing 8's in the doors and they're going to rattle like hell. But I can't seem to find anywhere to get ensolite in Sac. I was thinking of just using carpet pad, but not sure if that's the way to go either. Ideas?


I haven't gotten around to doing it yet, been super busy. I do have a week off here soon, so I plan to make A LOT of progress during that time.

The foam stuff i plan to use is the same stuff this guy got:



GLN305 said:


> OK, just a little more progress. I wasn't satisfied with just mass loading the doors, so they got foam! It came from a very unlikely and cheap source...Harbor Freight. I bought a 4 pack of the anti fatigue floor mats made from a dense foam. They worked well, better than anything I have ever used. I could probably cut down to a single layer of deadener with a layer of this one top.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> I haven't gotten around to doing it yet, been super busy. I do have a week off here soon, so I plan to make A LOT of progress during that time.
> 
> The foam stuff i plan to use is the same stuff this guy got:


Well I'll go check that out then. It looks pretty thick. Do you know what it was put on with? Spray glue or something? I'll figure it out I guess. This ought to work well.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> Well I'll go check that out then. It looks pretty thick. Do you know what it was put on with? Spray glue or something? I'll figure it out I guess. This ought to work well.


I PM'd him about it and I believe he just used 3M spray adhesive.

I agree it looks like a cheap yet effective alternative, which is what I'm all about.


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

****ty build. Get some real worthwhile spks and amps then try again. Plus thats an FUGLY ass truck. Any questions?


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## energizedsbs (Dec 11, 2007)

did you move your rear window motor more to the right and down? is it just the pics but it looks like it is.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Low_e_Red said:


> ****ty build. Get some real worthwhile spks and amps then try again. Plus thats an FUGLY ass truck. *Any questions?*


Since when did you turn gay?? 

You damn alcoholic, go to freakin bed. :laugh:

At least I CAN drive my truck.

I haven't moved my rear window motor, its in the stock location. I'll get some better pictures when i rip it all out and start over next week.


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## Low_e_Red (Aug 23, 2008)

[COMMENT][/COMMENT]


mSaLL150 said:


> Since when did you turn gay??
> 
> You damn alcoholic, go to freakin bed. :laugh:
> 
> ...


Gay??? When did you do all those ugly ass mods to it.... 

Im not an alcoholic. They go to meetings and arent in college. Just a drunk will suffice. 

Low blow. :blush:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Well I finally have a few days off from school, and I have my camera back so I thought I would give an update as to whats going on. I have been playing around with my amps and speakers individually, mainly to make sure they work and to test them out. But I haven't had everything completely put together yet since I haven't had time at school, so I'm taking these next couple days to get everything for Round 2 all in.

Lets start with some ground upgrades I did:










Here is the stock frame to chassy ground compared to what I replaced it with:










And here is the new ground in place:










And in that picture above you can see my 0awg power wire that is run underneath the truck with only a couple layers of flex loom...that wont do, so I picked up some conduit:










I also prepped the front stage drivers with speaker leads:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

I had to build a new board for the passenger side rear wall because my previous one wouldn't fit both of my US Amps 2 channels in a position where the seat could go back on. The new one fits both:










The beautiful iA7:










A shot with all 3 amps:










Re-positioned distro block:











More to come tomorrow...


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Okay, now a question for the experts: As you can see in that last picture, my distribution block is not fused...I've run this one for 5-6 months with 2 amplifiers, no problems. I've been told in the past that being fused at the battery plus the amps having their own fuses is enough...but moving to 3 amps, I question this. I know amps often draw more than they are fused for anyways.

Is it risky to run this distro block? Or is a fused block just more "peace of mind"?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nice work. I'm currently looking at getting the iA line of Cadence amps. I've been talking back and forth with Jason from Cadence on pricing and what amps to go with. I think we're about dialed in. B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

oh BTW at the end of the day, I forgot that my soldering iron was still on and i grabbed the wrong end on accident...2 of my fingers are scorched.

You will not be disappointed with the iAs. Can't beat the performance to price ratio.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

GOD I can't wait. Counting the days till Saturday. My 4 year old daughter is going to "help" me start tearing the car down. I'm excited to really get moving on this and as well involve my daughter in it. Ah parenthood!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

From this morning...

Ran new 12 awg wires for mids:



















No molex for me!!










ID OEM in place:










HAT L1 to go in stock location for now:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

nvm...figured it out.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

With the door panel back on:










Speaker wires run through the kick panel and through the door grommet:










Passenger side:










Couple new sets of Knu RCAs:










Ran the new RCAs:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Da woofaz:










All 3 amps fired up for the first time!










I still cant believe I fit all 3 back there while keeping the window motor, seatbelt tower, and remote unlock box all back there too. Lots of trial and error.


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## sgtpain988 (Mar 14, 2009)

Looks good. I'm glad I didn't have to deal with the extra stuff on the back wall. I think I have an idea for adding some tweeters in the front doors after seeing yours.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

sgtpain988 said:


> Looks good. I'm glad I didn't have to deal with the extra stuff on the back wall. I think I have an idea for adding some tweeters in the front doors after seeing yours.


Nice, yeah I would have mounted the tweeters in the A-pillars but I have future plans for dash pods and a 3-way setup.

The ID OEMs arent even broken in yet, and my door holes arent fully sealed yet, but the midbass output is still impressive. Kicking me in the chest big time. I need to add a lot more weight to my doors with this much power!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Marc, I am using the same distro block as you are for my 3 amp setup. Does that put your worries to rest at all? 

And Scooter, too bad I didn't know you were looking into the iA line. I just sold my iA7 to a buddy of mine on the cheap. I only used it for about 2-3 months. But JP is a good guy to deal with and I know he'll do right by you. I'd recommend Powermax to anyone without hesitation.

By the way, intall is coming along nicely Marc.

Zach


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> Marc, I am using the same distro block as you are for my 3 amp setup. Does that put your worries to rest at all?
> 
> By the way, intall is coming along nicely Marc.
> 
> Zach


Makes me feel much better Zach.

I have a question for everybody. So far its sounding a lot better. I've got the TA pretty much locked down. I've EQed a little here and there, but nothing too extreme yet. 

Right now the stage sits about waist level, I want it higher. The stock mid and tweeter location in these trucks is somewhat low in the doors, which is where I have the drivers right now. I've been thinking about tackling a glass job for the first time and moving the tweeters to the pillars. However, I've read/heard that you're not supposed to have major separation from the mid and tweeter. Since the cabs of these Ford trucks are quite tall (and the mid is low in the door), I fear it may not yield excellent results.

So, should I go for it or not? Is there any other way to get the stage up around dash level?


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

mSaLL150 said:


> And in that picture above you can see my 0awg power wire that is run underneath the truck with only a couple layers of flex loom...that wont do, so I picked up some conduit:


What diameter conduit is that? Did you drill a 1" hole in back of cab to run it through?
Also, as far as the ground upgrades,What all did you do? What was pictured under pass side door, neg battery to firewall, what else? You left the alt alone didnt you?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

BlackFx4InTn said:


> What diameter conduit is that? Did you drill a 1" hole in back of cab to run it through?
> Also, as far as the ground upgrades,What all did you do? What was pictured under pass side door, neg battery to firewall, what else? You left the alt alone didnt you?


I believe it was 3/4" or 1" conduit, I'd have to check. I ran my power wire under the truck and through the grommet on the passenger side under the back door.

As for the grounds, the one pictured was the frame to chassy ground. I also did the battery to chassy ground. I still have the stock alternator but upgraded my battery to a deep cell.


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

Yeah, I knew about that hidden gromet under the rear passenger door seal but didnt know if 1/0 would fit in there. I noticed that Arc drilled a hole a little behind that in the back side of the cab. I much prefer under the door seal if it will fit. I'm getting my wire ordered and planning out everything right now. I was at Lowes and saw the Caraflex and wasnt sure what size to get. Also, did you use the liquid-tight fitting that screws into the hole? Anyways, thanks for the replies. You have a good looking install and if I can get mine looking half as good, I'll be happy.


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

mSaLL150 said:


> Couple new sets of Knu RCAs:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was looking at these, it says "This 5 Meter (16.5ft) RCA cable also has a built in remote turn on lead." Does that mean I dont have to run remote wires? If so, thats cool as ****.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

BlackFx4InTn said:


> I was looking at these, it says "This 5 Meter (16.5ft) RCA cable also has a built in remote turn on lead." Does that mean I dont have to run remote wires? If so, thats cool as ****.


Yeah, they have a small wire between the two signal wire that you could use as a remote turn on. I didn't end up using the attached remote wires because the RCA inputs are on the opposite side of the amplifier than the remote jack on all of amps, so I just ran separate wires to keep it a little cleaner. But yes you could use them if you wanted to.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

A quick update:

I was getting some pretty bad ringing from the mids at high volume since I had them crossed so high to mate with the L1s (which cannot be crossed low at all). I ended up grabbing a pair of the TBI tweeters for a nice price from a member here on the forum. I just tossed them in my doors the other day. I crossed them at 2.5k right now, with the OEMs low passed at 2k. What a huge difference! Midrange is so much cleaner, it made everything sound many times better. The mids are much happier when crossed lower. These tweeters are keepers.

I have resin and accessories on the way from US Composites right now, I'll be molding the tweeters into the pillars next week. It will be my first time working with resin, wish me luck. Any tips are appreciated.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nice. My only suggestion would be do a little at a time and work quickly. Not fast but quick enough to no sit there and dwell over what's been done. Make since? Hope so! Oh and cover everything possible around the area. If you think it's gonna get messy cover it, if you think there's a slight remote possibility of it getting a little bit on it, cover it! When in doubt cover it!! You'll be fine. You can always try on something other than what your doing, as well, to get the feel of it.:thumbsup:


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

That looks nice so far. Before you glass the tweeters in can you play around with them and mount them temporarily using velcro to find out where they work best??? 

I have my ID OEM mids in my doors and they are even lower than yours are. I am running Seas Neo Textile Tweeters in the A-pillars mostly off axis firing across at each other. They produce a nice wide and mostly centered image even with my center channel processor off. 

The speakers are being ran on a passive OZ Audio Crossover for the OZ Matrix Elite 180CS set. The crossover has a 1800 Hz low pass for the woofer and a 2200 Hz high pass for the tweeter and they sound pretty nice. I am getting ready to run them active because the OZ crossover is a limiting factor for me to match their levels 100% to my liking.

Wait until you get the ID OEM's broken in!!! It is one of my favorite 6.5" speakers that I have owned for a 2-way system.


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## Dodge4L1fe (Jun 5, 2009)

Nice install... enjoyed reading it!


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## IrishChamp (Oct 9, 2008)

very nice installation, I'm in the process of doing an installation in my truck as well.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Some more pictures I found of some work in my doors.



















I used aluminum flashing to seal up the big door holes. Praying that my window regulators dont poop out again anytime soon, its a common problem on these trucks.




























When I added the deflex pads and sealed the doors, midbass was noticeably stronger and midrange was definitly cleaner. Door treatments should not be half-assed, it really makes a big difference.

My next project is the tweeter pods in the pillars. Unfortunately I wont have that finished for Marvs, so my imaging is still pretty crappy with all speakers in the doors but ohwell.


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## GEE (Jul 6, 2008)

Is your soundstage in the center ? If so you let them in door. In front you should have more details at high frequency


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Enter some shallow XBL^2 sexiness.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

I had the pleasure of riding with Marc to Marv's BBQ last week. It was a great meeting Marc and listening to this system. He has done a great job with the install - reading, talking with those who have given good advice, and applying what he has learned. 

I can't wait to see the Adires installed, and I especially can't wait to hear them - hopefully in August!


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

When you installed that Kinetik, you put it under the hood right? And just ran your system and truck off that? If so, did you have to do anything to your battery tray to secure the new battery?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words Jason, I had a great time on the trip.

BlackFx4, yes i just swapped the Kinetik in for the stock battery. I got rid of the stock cover and fabbed up a metal bracket to replace it since the Kinetik is a different size and shape than the stock motorcraft battery. I'll see if I can get a picture of it.

The Adire Kodas have been in for about 2 weeks and they are awesome! With almost twice the xmax of the JLs i had previously, they are a lot louder and off of less power. They are super efficient and dont take a lot to get going. I'm loving them so far.


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

dang been a while since I have checked up on your thread. Looks awesome so far. Got any pics of the adires installed? I would love to hear them someday, was gonna use them in a buddies truck a few years back just before they were no more


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

So did you end up using those floor tiles from HarborFreight? What are you impressions?

Thanks.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Mless5 said:


> So did you end up using those floor tiles from HarborFreight? What are you impressions?
> 
> Thanks.


I actually did not. With the 2 layers of deadener and the deflex pads, adding those tiles would interfere with the window going up and down so I decided against it. But just sealing the door holes and adding the deflex pads made a HUGE difference in midbass output and midrange clarity.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Update: SI BMs are in!!

Pretty simple box, It doesn't look pretty now but once I get it sprayed with bedliner it'll look great.

I started by removing the Attrend box so I could use it as a template for the new box. Attrend box still has the Kodas in it.





I cut the template board and test fitted it in the truck:





BM vs Koda:



Here is the amount of space between the BM and the back of the box...1/4 of an inch!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Putting the pieces together:



Cut the holes...did this with a jigsaw, I guess I have steady hands haha



Done!



Test fit:



Plenty of excursion room:


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Stuffed with polyfill and wired up, subs installed:









Final external dimensions came out to be 50.5" long, 13.5" deep and 4.2" tall. 5/8" MDF all around, .46 cu ft per side. Just gotta get is sprayed with bedliner and it'll look sexy.

It will not always stick out that much either. I still need to do a slight mod to the seat so I can shove the box farther back under there.


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

1. Did you like up firing or down firing better? I know they were different subs, but I dont know which way to go.

2. Did the Atrend box stick out as much as your BM box? I have ruled out the BM for the truck due to me not being able to have the box stick out any.

3. Any pics of the A-pillar tweet pods?

Thanks


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

el_chupo_ said:


> 1. Did you like up firing or down firing better? I know they were different subs, but I dont know which way to go.
> 
> 2. Did the Atrend box stick out as much as your BM box? I have ruled out the BM for the truck due to me not being able to have the box stick out any.
> 
> ...


I liked the upfiring setup because it didn't cause vibrations like the downfiring does. However the mSaLL box for the BMs is producing less vibrations than the Attrend box for the Kodas, probably because the woofers are farther off the ground reducing the "loading effect" to some degree. Honestly you can get good results either way.

The Attrend box doesn't stick out as much (and in a supercrew it wont stick out at all), but it also doesn't provide adequate room for excursion. So by the time I had it so the Kodas could breathe right, the Attrend box stuck out more than this box. There are pictures on F150online of guys using the Attrend box where it doesn't stick out at all.

Keep in mind that my truck is a supercab. With a supercrew it wont stick out at all. I'm going to mod the seat a bit to get the mSaLL box to stick out less, maybe only an inch at most. 

A-pillars aren't done yet. Its just warming up now so hopefully in the next couple weeks I can get them done. I'll update once I get on that.


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Wow - that box looks great! It has been a long wait for the BMs, but I hope it has paid off. I would love to hear your comments on the difference in sound (quality of sound) between the Kodas and the BMs. Even better - I would like to hear your truck again - I'll give you a shout about my April trip. 

Fantastic job on the box!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

BM's FTW! Nice work. I'm thinking of getting one of these to put in my wifes car! I'd love to hear your truck. You going to any of the shows up here?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hey, you coming out to santa rosa? love to hear/see it! great job on the box!

b


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

Any updates? Nice install man. I'm planning the install on my 05 Supercrew now. I'm considering going with 8's in the front doors for midbass duty. Possibly some Dayton RS225's or similar. What are your thoughts? Are you happy with the midbass, and midrange performance with the 6.5's? Was also thinking about doing some 2.5 or 3" mids in the Sails, and tweets in the stock location if I decide to go 3 way active with Sub.

Still pondering,

Rob.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Rob J said:


> Any updates? Nice install man. I'm planning the install on my 05 Supercrew now. I'm considering going with 8's in the front doors for midbass duty. Possibly some Dayton RS225's or similar. What are your thoughts? Are you happy with the midbass, and midrange performance with the 6.5's? Was also thinking about doing some 2.5 or 3" mids in the Sails, and tweets in the stock location if I decide to go 3 way active with Sub.
> 
> Still pondering,
> 
> Rob.


I have been out of the country for a month so nothing has gotten done in a while. I have big plans for the next month or 2 as I have plenty of free time and some extra cash 

The F150 doors are huge and I think 8" drivers in the doors would be excellent for midbass, and I plan to put in 8s myself here shortly. Probably going with the CSS trio8 woofers. If you do 3way, try to keep the tweeters out of the doors, I hate them there. Stage suffers badly from the rainbow effect. Here is a teaser of where my mids and tweets will be once I finish the pillars (thanks to mmiller):


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## chipss (Nov 13, 2009)

looks nice, cant wait to see it finished,


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

Yep, looking good. I just received a pair of Dayton RS225's, and a pair of Dayton RS28F Tweeters. I also just ordered a complete Sound Deadening/Treatment package from Don at SoundDeadenerShowdown. Once everything comes in, in the next week or so, I'm getting ready to strip the truck.

My current plan now is to run 3 way active, using an Alpine Imprint processor I just received. Was planning on installing the Dayton tweeters in the sail panels on the upper door panel. It will require I drill a 3" hole in the door panel, and I'll have to have an upholstery shop make a fabric grill of some sort. I hope this works out ok, as there is no turning back once I drill those 3" holes. The pods are the most ideal, I just want to be a bit more stealth. There is always a trade off. Unless any of you guys can think of a better place to mount these tweeters, this is where they will live. I agree the stock tweeter locations are bad at best.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Rob J said:


> Yep, looking good. I just received a pair of Dayton RS225's, and a pair of Dayton RS28F Tweeters. I also just ordered a complete Sound Deadening/Treatment package from Don at SoundDeadenerShowdown. Once everything comes in, in the next week or so, I'm getting ready to strip the truck.
> 
> My current plan now is to run 3 way active, using an Alpine Imprint processor I just received. Was planning on installing the Dayton tweeters in the sail panels on the upper door panel. It will require I drill a 3" hole in the door panel, and I'll have to have an upholstery shop make a fabric grill of some sort. I hope this works out ok, as there is no turning back once I drill those 3" holes. The pods are the most ideal, I just want to be a bit more stealth. There is always a trade off. Unless any of you guys can think of a better place to mount these tweeters, this is where they will live. I agree the stock tweeter locations are bad at best.


Sounds like you have a good plan. Do you have a supercrew or supercab? I have the supercab and after I deadened the crap out of the front doors, I realized that the rear doors were buzzing since there is no proper B-pillar. Make sure you get the rear floor real good too if you put the sub under the backseat. I found that vibrations through the floor/seat will kill your subwoofer's blending ability.

One other thing you could do for tweeters, if you dont want to permanently change your door panels, is to create small removable fiberglass pods at the base of the pillars/windshield in that little cavity area. Ive seen it done before, I'll try to find a picture. This will improve your stage depth, and will also allow you to aim them more on-axis while still maintaining a relatively stock look.


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

mSaLL150 said:


> Sounds like you have a good plan. Do you have a supercrew or supercab? I have the supercab and after I deadened the crap out of the front doors, I realized that the rear doors were buzzing since there is no proper B-pillar. Make sure you get the rear floor real good too if you put the sub under the backseat. I found that vibrations through the floor/seat will kill your subwoofer's blending ability.
> 
> One other thing you could do for tweeters, if you dont want to permanently change your door panels, is to create small removable fiberglass pods at the base of the pillars/windshield in that little cavity area. Ive seen it done before, I'll try to find a picture. This will improve your stage depth, and will also allow you to aim them more on-axis while still maintaining a relatively stock look.



I have a Supercrew. Yes, I plan on deadening the crap out of the doors. I have some entry level Infinity Reference 6x8 components installed and running off of an Alpine INA-W900 I recently installed, and they sound like CRAP!!!! The midbass/bass is so muddy and boomy because of the non treated doors, and the tweeters sound harsh. Don set me up with the CLD tiles, CCF, and MLV. I also plan on sealing up the big holes in the doors with either some sheet aluminum, or some roofing flashing. Yeah, I'd like to see those pics.

BTW, are you still running the most recent sub setup in this thread? I've got a Q-logic, Q-Custom box with a single 10" Peerless XXLS driver, and am hoping I get good low end. Not aiming to boom down the street with my windows down like I used to 20 years ago, but just nice, tight, and accurate bass. I'm not sure if a single 10 is going to do the job.

Rob


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## chipss (Nov 13, 2009)

killer info here, man thanks, and having pics up are very helpful...






mSaLL150 said:


> Sounds like you have a good plan. Do you have a supercrew or supercab? I have the supercab and after I deadened the crap out of the front doors, I realized that the rear doors were buzzing since there is no proper B-pillar. Make sure you get the rear floor real good too if you put the sub under the backseat. I found that vibrations through the floor/seat will kill your subwoofer's blending ability.
> 
> One other thing you could do for tweeters, if you dont want to permanently change your door panels, is to create small removable fiberglass pods at the base of the pillars/windshield in that little cavity area. Ive seen it done before, I'll try to find a picture. This will improve your stage depth, and will also allow you to aim them more on-axis while still maintaining a relatively stock look.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Rob J said:


> BTW, are you still running the most recent sub setup in this thread? I've got a Q-logic, Q-Custom box with a single 10" Peerless XXLS driver, and am hoping I get good low end. Not aiming to boom down the street with my windows down like I used to 20 years ago, but just nice, tight, and accurate bass. I'm not sure if a single 10 is going to do the job.


Yes I am still running the 2 BMs, but I have it dialed waayyyyy back. They easily overpower the front stage. I ran a single Adire Koda 10 for a bit and it is more than enough low end to keep up. Just make sure you stuff that little enclosure with polyfill and find a woofer that enjoys tiny airspace like the Dayton HO10. That peerless might make you really happy as well.


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

If you can find those pics of the tweeter pods you were speaking of, it'd be great to see them.

I just removed my back seat today. It certainly is going to be a tight fit getting these amps in, especially with the power rear sliding window motor right smack in the way. Did you re-install your factory rear wall cover, or just leave it permanently out?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Rob J said:


> If you can find those pics of the tweeter pods you were speaking of, it'd be great to see them.
> 
> I just removed my back seat today. It certainly is going to be a tight fit getting these amps in, especially with the power rear sliding window motor right smack in the way. Did you re-install your factory rear wall cover, or just leave it permanently out?


I took it out permanently since it wouldn't even fit with all the dampener and amps back there. I had to work around that power sliding rear window motor as well. Yes its a PITA, it took a lot of trial and error to fit everything but it can be done. How many amps do you have and how large are they?

Here are some examples of dash pods for tweeters that would work well in the F150:


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

I like the looks of that first one. 


I've got two amps for now. Might add a third in the future. I've got two Alpine PDX amps A F4, and an M6. Luckily they are small. From some initial measurements, it appears I'll be able to fit the two on the back left side, and leave space to the right of the seatbelt mechanism for a future third PDX amp. 

Right now, I've got the truck completely stripped down to the shell, and am currently installing all the Sound Deadening treatments I just received from Sound Deadener Showdown. It's a hell of a job, let me tell you, and with the rain lately, it's been a slow process. I think I should of left this project for the winter, where it's much cooler and drier than this time of year here in Miami.

Rob.


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## Mid Life Crisis (May 6, 2010)

Oh man those first pods look amazing!

Hey, you wouldnt by chance have the exact dimensions of the BM box you built would ya? Like the notch cutout dimension in the rear and all that good stuff! I have the same setup but Im a Crew and I dont have a template to start with.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Mid Life Crisis said:


> Oh man those first pods look amazing!
> 
> Hey, you wouldnt by chance have the exact dimensions of the BM box you built would ya? Like the notch cutout dimension in the rear and all that good stuff! I have the same setup but Im a Crew and I dont have a template to start with.


I'll get you the dimensions tomorrow.

Exodus Anarchy Midbass arrived Friday. These things are HUGE. Should have them in tomorrow or Tuesday!


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## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

Looking forward in your feedback on those drivers. Make sure and snap some pics of the install process. 

I'm midway into my install now, will put up a build log thread soon. It's been a bit slow, seeing as the heat and rain here in Miami this time of year is brutal at best.:blush:


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## Cruzer (Jul 16, 2010)

No update on the anarchy's in? Btw very clean install. I have a crew cab truck but it has only enough room under the seats for amps.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Cruzer said:


> No update on the anarchy's in? Btw very clean install. I have a crew cab truck but it has only enough room under the seats for amps.


I started a new thread as im doing a complete overhaul. Right now the Anarchys are towel'd up in the kicks and are sounding fantastic, just have to get going on my fiberglass project. 

What year is your truck?


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## Cruzer (Jul 16, 2010)

Oops I'll check ur other thread.

I have a 2006 Mitsubishi raider. Same thing as a dodge Dakota except the outside looks different. My dad had a silverado and did subs under the bench seat like u.

I like how u put ur amps onthe back wall but what if u need to adjust something is it hard to get to or do the seats flip down easily exposing them?


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