# AudioControl 6XS for 2-way active



## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

Seeking guidance on setting up my AudioControl 6XS crossover for a 2-way active system in my ‘99 Corvette coupe.

Head unit: Alpine iDA-X305
EQ: AudioControl Three.2
Crossover: AudioControl 6XS (not in use until resistor modules are sorted)
Amp 1: Kenwood XR-4S 4-channel
Amp 2: Soundstream PCX-1000D mono
Door speakers: JL Audio XR650-CSi 6.5” components
Sub: PolkAudio SR-124 12"

Current setup: HU’s front channels feed the EQ. The EQ front/rear outputs are high-passed at 90Hz and feed the Kenwood 4-channel with it's crossovers bypassed. The outputs feed the JL passive crossover inputs in a bi-wire/bi-amp setup. The EQ’s sub output feeds the the SoundStream amp to the sub.

The Kenwood XR-4S crossovers are unsuitable for a 2-way active setup since the low range is 50-250Hz and the high range is 2.5-10kHz.

I got the AudioControl 6XS to go active, but I found out after it arrived that the adjustment knobs for each output channel are gain controls, not as I had assumed for frequency adjustment. To adjust frequencies, you have to get under the hood and swap out resistor modules. 

If I’m understanding the block diagram of the somewhat cryptic instruction manual correctly with its oversimplified examples, I have to change out the Front HP resistor module which sets the crossover frequency for the Front HP and LP output channels to suit my setup needs. By its out-of-the-box default modules, the Front HP outputs 250Hz and up and the Front LP outputs 90 to 250Hz. Both of these outputs are useless since the HP is too low for tweeters and the LP is too low for the woofers since it cuts off all the midrange.

This page at Speakerbuilder.net suggested a crossover range of 2000-2300Hz for the woofer. One of the resistor DIP modules I plan on ordering is 2.7kOhm, which results in 2667Hz (7200/Frequency = resistor value). Individual resistors inserted into an IC socket would also work fine but I prefer the dual inline package resistor array. The other one I planned on trying is this 2.2kOhm module for 3273Hz. They're only $0.60 each, so I might as well try a few samples. Much cheaper than the multi-pack that goes for $120... what a rip-off.

I’ve searched extensively for clear examples of how this has been done before, but I’ve only come sorta close. Is my understanding of the 6XS crossover module selection for the front output channels correct? Is the frequency range I'm considering about right? 

Thanks!


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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

While the speakerbuilder page suggests a range of 2k-2.3k, that is pretty low for most tweeters, with a few exceptions. When picking a crossover point the first thing I usually do is take a look at the factory settings. The JL set you have is a bit difficult to find info on, but This page gives us some good info straight from JL's resident expert Manville Smith:



caraudioforum post said:


> McDizzle said:
> 
> 
> > Stage height? That would explain whi I don't understand his answer...
> ...


This means right off the bat you can both bi-amp your speakers and experiment with some different cross over points without using an external cross over. Additionally, we now know that the factory cut off point for the tweeter is 3.6KHz, which means you have a fair bit of adjustment just using your XR-4S if you decide to go fully active. 

Since you have a fair bit of capability already, I say try the system for a while without the 6XS and see how you like it. 

Also, since I'm not certain of your experience running fully active, be sure to put a capacitor inline with your + wire on the tweeter. This will prevent it from being damaged in the event that noise or equipment issues send low frequencies out to the tweeter. I use these. Based upon this chart they will take effect at about 800hz. This puts it at least a full octave below your pass band, so they should have minimal to no impact on the sound, but will ensure the tweeters keep the magic smoke in.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

alachua said:


> we now know that the factory cut off point for the tweeter is 3.6KHz


 This is what I had difficulty finding, but it's certainly within the suggested range of what I was guessing at. Far better to know vs guess however.



> you have a fair bit of adjustment just using your XR-4S if you decide to go fully active.
> 
> Since you have a fair bit of capability already, I say try the system for a while without the 6XS and see how you like it.


The XR-4S high range provides for the tweeter's freq range just fine and I have run it actively before. It sounds more lively than full range through the passive crossover as I have it set up now on a trial basis. I think my next move is to wire only the tweeters actively and leave the woofers on the passive crossover and try the various midrange presence options to help base my 6XS resistor module selection.



> be sure to put a capacitor inline with your + wire on the tweeter. This will prevent it from being damaged in the event that noise or equipment issues send low frequencies out to the tweeter. I use these. Based upon this chart they will take effect at about 800hz. This puts it at least a full octave below your pass band, so they should have minimal to no impact on the sound, but will ensure the tweeters keep the magic smoke in.


I will add a set to my next PE order.

Your post addressed a great deal of my questions- thank you. I intend to make this fully active once I get the 6XS dialed in properly. An active setup makes too much good sense not to. I'm fairly confident i have the 6XS figured out, but i would still like some confirmation from someone with experience setting one up. I will be looking to upgrade to a 3-way setup down the road.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.

Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:

Electronic Components Distributor | DigiKey Corp. | US Home Page

-Product Index-
scroll down to the Resistors category
-Networks, Arrays

You'll see a series of filters at this point.
Circuit Type: Isolated
Number of Resistors: 8
Number of Pins: 16
Mounting Type: Through Hole
Package/Case: 16-DIP

For the sake of convenience, tick the In stock checkbox and hit -Apply Filters-. You can then either use the Resistance filter to find the one you want or sort the existing list by resistance by clicking on the blue arrows and scrolling around. Pay attention to the minimum order since at most you'll probably only want 2 or so of each rather than 1,000. The 6XS uses 8-resistor 16-pin modules for high pass and 7-resistor 14-pin modules for low pass. The 7-resistor modules are available, but resistance options are fewer. Just get the 8-resistor modules and they will fit but the last two pins will simply not insert into the pin socket- there are no side effects.

The 2.2kOhm module I ordered was this one:
Digi-Key - MDP2.2KF-ND (Manufacturer - MDP16032K20GE04)

Hoping this is useful for someone else trying to figure out how to dial in their AudioControl crossover.


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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

Good info, glad you came back to update. The info here should be pretty similar for any of the old school crossovers that also use the resistor chips (like the adcom line driver for instance.

Glad you have everything sounding good.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

I just discovered I blew a tweeter from when I initially hooked up the 6XS prior to understanding how to dial it in and the front HP was set to 250Hz. The right tweeter took the joke but the left one... not so much. At least I learned the lesson on a cheap-ish set.


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## alachua (Jun 30, 2008)

Gadget01 said:


> I just discovered I blew a tweeter from when I initially hooked up the 6XS prior to understanding how to dial it in and the front HP was set to 250Hz. The right tweeter took the joke but the left one... not so much. At least I learned the lesson on a cheap-ish set.


Yup, that's why the caps are a MUST. I took mine out when I swapped tweeters and figured I would get them back in before I messed around again. Then, I decided to re-calibrate my MS8. After I watched the smoke pour out of my odd ball XT25 I put the caps back in the next day. Fifty dollar lesson :disappointed:


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## richbum05 (Apr 16, 2010)

Gadget01 said:


> My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.
> 
> Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:
> 
> ...



This info has helped me out alot. I orded a bunch of resistors for my 6xs. Thanks for doing the legwork.


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## tiniform (Aug 22, 2012)

richbum05 said:


> This info has helped me out alot. I orded a bunch of resistors for my 6xs. Thanks for doing the legwork.


Awesome info. I ordered my 2.2 resister after reading these and finally bought the 6XS and it arrived today. I need to know if I need any other resisters because I've only replaced the front Hp. So now i guess my points are 90-250Hz, 250Hz and up, and whatever the new resister points are. Am I understanding this correctly?


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## tiniform (Aug 22, 2012)

Another thing, I am using this with a clarion Eqs746 so should i just use all three sets of rca's from the eq to the 6xs? And what about the freq btween the LP (30-90) and the HP (3200HZ and up)?


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.



tiniform said:


> Awesome info. I ordered my 2.2 resister after reading these and finally bought the 6XS and it arrived today. I need to know if I need any other resisters because I've only replaced the front Hp. So now i guess my points are 90-250Hz, 250Hz and up, and whatever the new resister points are. Am I understanding this correctly?


A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:

Sub: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: 250Hz and up
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz
Front HP: 3.4kHz and up

If you want to do time alignment and drive the woofers/tweeters separately, change out the Rear HP module with another 2.2kOhm module and use this channel for tweeters instead of Front HP.

For a 3-way setup, use the following channel arrangement:
Sub: MidBass 90-250Hz
Front LP: Mids 250-3.3kHz
Rear HP: Tweets: 3.3kHz and up
Front HP: (not used)

Four of the modules must be changed:

Sub: 28kOhm
Sub PFM: 80kOhm
Rear HP: 2.2kOhm
Front LP: 2.2kOhm

If you don't care about driving the mids/tweets from a separate source for time alignment or for whatever odd reason you want rear fill, leave the 90Hz module in the Rear HP socket and run the tweets from the Front HP output.

Based on recommendations, I used a 50uF capacitor for my tweeters.
50uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 027-354

It works fine and does not color the sound, so far as I can tell. Anyone have more on this? Does it affect phase?

Here's how I think the block diagram should look in the manual:


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

tiniform said:


> Another thing, I am using this with a clarion Eqs746 so should i just use all three sets of rca's from the eq to the 6xs?


If you are not running rear-fill, and friends don't let friends do this anyways, then just run 2 sets- Front and Sub channels.



tiniform said:


> And what about the freq btween the LP (30-90) and the HP (3200HZ and up)?


Did I answer this in my previous post? Otherwise I'm not sure what you're asking.


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## Skylined (May 26, 2013)

Gadget01 said:


> My Digi-Key order arrived today with a nice range of resistor modules to try out. I installed the 2.2kOhm module for the Front Highpass, which sets the front crossover at about 3200Hz. I also changed out the 213kOhm 33Hz lowpass sub channel module for a 330kOhm 22Hz unit. So far so good to my ear and now the system is fully active with the amplifiers' crossovers bypassed.
> 
> Each of these resistor modules cost less than $1 each. They can be ordered from quite a few different places- you just have to know the nomenclature and apply the filters to find what you want. For Digi-Key, it breaks down like this:
> 
> ...



Thank you ever so much, I too have ordered some resistors for my 6XS


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

You are very welcome- glad to pay forward a little. I have learned a great deal using information on this forum and made a few friends in the process.

I have upgraded to an Audison Bit One DSP. Previously, the only EQ I had going was the 2-band parametric settings in my Alpine HU. The Bit One does EQ, time alignment, phase, and crossover. It also comes with a steep learning curve.

My 6XS is no longer needed along with all the extra freq modules that I ordered. I would like to find a new home for it soon.


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## Skylined (May 26, 2013)

Gadget01 said:


> You are very welcome- glad to pay forward a little. I have learned a great deal using information on this forum and made a few friends in the process.
> 
> I have upgraded to an Audison Bit One DSP. Previously, the only EQ I had going was the 2-band parametric settings in my Alpine HU. The Bit One does EQ, time alignment, phase, and crossover. It also comes with a steep learning curve.
> 
> My 6XS is no longer needed along with all the extra freq modules that I ordered. I would like to find a new home for it soon.


Currently this is my setup for now, but soon I'll upgrade...

Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD RDS Receiver
AudioControl FOUR.1i In-Dash Equalizer and Pre-Amp Line Driver
AudioControl The EPICENTER Concert Series Bass Maximizer
AudioControl 6XS Concert Series Six Channel Electronic Crossover
Hifonics ZEUS ZRX1200.2 Full Range 2-Channel stereo Ampliflier
PowerAcoustik GOTHIC GT4-2600 Full Range 4-Channel stereo Ampliflier
Hifonics BRUTUS BRX2400.1D Low Pass Mono Amplifier

FaitalPRO 10PR300 10" Professional Loudspeakers (2)
PowerAcoustiK MID-65 6" Pro Audio Speaker (4)
PowerAcoustik NX-6 Horn Loaded Tweeter (2)
PowerAcoustik NB-4 1" Piezo Tweeter (2)
PowerAcoustik NB-1 1" Piezo Tweeter (2)
T3 Audio T.2000-15d 15" Subwoofer (1)

ACDelco S85D26L Maintenance Free Battery
700 CCA / 80 [email protected] / 130 Reserve Capacity


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## Subirex09 (Nov 20, 2009)

Gadget01 said:


> The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.
> 
> 
> A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:
> ...


Hey Guys, sorry to rehash an old thread but I am getting ready to use a 6XS like described in the first part of this post.

Sub LP: 30-90Hz
Rear HP: (Tweets for time correction purposes) - 3.4kHz
Front LP: 90Hz-3.4kHz

In this setup, the Front HP output of the 6XS would not be used, correct?


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

Subirex09 said:


> Hey Guys, sorry to rehash an old thread but I am getting ready to use a 6XS like described in the first part of this post.
> 
> Sub LP: 30-90Hz
> Rear HP: (Tweets for time correction purposes) - 3.4kHz
> ...


Correct. The only "drawback" is having to use 2 of the same frequency modules, but time alignment is totally worth it.


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## Subirex09 (Nov 20, 2009)

Agreed! I have always loved time alignment, but I don't think I have ever used it on a fully active setup so I'm pretty pumped.

Do you definitely think I need the inline resistor if I have the correct frequency modules?


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## juniorbj (Sep 12, 2014)

Gadget01 said:


> The sub and front LP are technically bandpass outputs, of which the lower and upper crossover points can be totally customized.
> 
> 
> A 2.2kOhm resistor module in the Front HP socket will give you a crossover point of 3.4kHz between the Front Low Pass and Front High Pass outputs. If the other modules remain unchanged, your ranges will be as follows:
> ...


hey I am a newby so sorry for my late question. Can you share your speaker setup for your system? and are you running subs because you have midbass at sub output


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

juniorbj said:


> hey I am a newby so sorry for my late question. Can you share your speaker setup for your system? and are you running subs because you have midbass at sub output


At the time I posted this, my setup was an active 2-way front stage and a sub. No time alignment, no EQ. Probably not much better vs. using passive crossovers.

The 6XS is a good quality 3-way crossover with adjustable output levels, nothing more. Audio Control likes to label things in curious ways which made it more difficult (at least for me) to understand how to set it up. Despite the inconvenient means of adjusting the crossover frequencies (swapping resistor modules), it's a good unit to use on a tight budget if you want an active setup until you get a DSP. Some high-end head units can do DSP functions, but with far more limitations.

My 6XS is sitting on a shelf since about a year ago. If you want it and all the resistor modules I ordered for it, I'll make you a good deal.


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

This thread is gold! I've been wanting to upgrade my car audio a 2015 Corolla and now trying to figure out how best to set it up. I'm likely going to go for Focal Utopia Be 165 W-RC ACTIVE for a 2-way front, totally skip the rears (maybe just add midbass) and run an Alpine shallow mount SWR-T10 subwoofer. Once I've figured out what I need to cross this I can figure out which amplifier I need (I plan of a JL Audio HD series amp). I've been looking at the 6XS also and keep getting confused the more I read. This actually is the first thread I've come across which has provided so much information and thanks for that. Now wondering if the 6XS is the way to go or if there are simpler options out there? Thanks for any help...


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

aykhan said:


> This thread is gold! I've been wanting to upgrade my car audio a 2015 Corolla and now trying to figure out how best to set it up. I'm likely going to go for Focal Utopia Be 165 W-RC ACTIVE for a 2-way front, totally skip the rears (maybe just add midbass) and run an Alpine shallow mount SWR-T10 subwoofer. Once I've figured out what I need to cross this I can figure out which amplifier I need (I plan of a JL Audio HD series amp). I've been looking at the 6XS also and keep getting confused the more I read. This actually is the first thread I've come across which has provided so much information and thanks for that. Now wondering if the 6XS is the way to go or if there are simpler options out there? Thanks for any help...


 Glad you found it informative. I sold my 6XS a few months ago to another DIYMA member. The only reason to get one now rather than throw down for a DSP is if you can get one for a really low price... say, less than $100. Yeah, you can throw down a cool grand for a brand new high-end DSP, but you can find them on FS forums for less than $500 regularly. My first was an Audison Bit One that I bought for $325 from another DIYMA member. It worked fine for a couple of years before it crapped out. Easily worth it. Now I have a Mosconi 6to8, paid about $500.

6XS = 3-way crossover, output levels, tedious adjustment process

DSP (just about any) = crossover, output levels, time alignment, EQ (individual per channel), presets that you can save and switch, adjustment via computer over USB or wireless and usually a remote.

Just sayin'


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## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

I also found this thread very helpful when I had a 6XS....thanks Gadget01! I also agree about how much easier things are with a DSP unit. If you can get it cheap as mentioned, it's s good unit. I eventually sold it & the DEQ-61 I was using with it.


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

Yeah I hear you about the DSP. I've read some more and now I'm drooling over the Helix P Six DSP


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

aykhan said:


> Yeah I hear you about the DSP. I've read some more and now I'm drooling over the Helix P Six DSP


The "drawback" of a DSP, if you can call it that, is the complexity and number adjustments. You can install a 6XS and be done in about an hour since all you do is install the resistor network, adjust input sensitivity and dial in the output level for each channel. The initial setup for a DSP takes at least an hour just to get outputs assigned and a safe crossover settings established so you're not driving tweeters with 20Hz. Tuning it to have something that's not painful to listen to requires a good half-day or so. Tuning it in to competition-grade transdimensional space-goat status can take weeks. 











DSP tuning is basically a hobby of its own. You can save your DSP setup file, so if you have a listenable setup and then if you wreck your EQ in an afternoon tuning session, you can always revert to a previously saved setup. Save, and save often. Like, if you get into a lot of settings and then decide to run the engine for a while to warm/cool the cabin and charge the battery, most cars turn off the audio system during engine start. If a DSP loses power, any unsaved settings are probably lost but it depends on the model.

The nice thing about DSP software is, you can download whichever brand/model you are considering for "free-fiddy" and try it out before you decide. Some are prettier and more/less intuitive than others but all do the same thing. My recommendation, download the software and try it before you buy. You'll be spending a good bit of time with it to tune your system. The new Kicker Q-series amp/DSP is worth a look, btw.

When I say a DSP has EQ, that means it has 30-ish bands of graphic and/or parametric sliders per channel. The 6XS's crossover slopes are 24dB or 6dB/octave depending on what kind of resistor bridge you install in the socket. A DSP has a variety of slope options (6/12/24/48... Butterworth/LR), separate for high and low pass... meaning you can assign a 48db filter low-pass and a 6db high-pass filter for the same channel. Whether or not you _should_ do that is another discussion. Be aware that the kind of slope you choose has phase impacts, which is also among the adjustments... usually 0 or 180, but some have more options.

I'm not attempting to sway your decision one-way or another- just be aware of what each does for you.

cheers


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

Wow! Yeah, lot of options with a DSP and complex indeed but I guess a more likely chance to become a transdimension space goat! &#55357;&#56832; I'm quite new to all this, what exactly is the decible setting for? Also what should be the ideal crossover settings for tweeters, midbass, midrange and subwoofer. I plan on running the Focal Utopia Number 7 Activr. Was thinking that's 6 channels right there. However the Helix DSP has 8 channels so I can still use two for subwoofers. I'm thinking I'm going to go with a single Morel Ultimo Titanium for SQ.


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## 1996blackmax (Aug 29, 2007)

Gadget01 said:


>



Yes sir! 

Nice explanation as well.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

aykhan said:


> Wow! Yeah, lot of options with a DSP and complex indeed but I guess a more likely chance to become a transdimension space goat! �� I'm quite new to all this, what exactly is the decible setting for? Also what should be the ideal crossover settings for tweeters, midbass, midrange and subwoofer. I plan on running the Focal Utopia Number 7 Activr. Was thinking that's 6 channels right there. However the Helix DSP has 8 channels so I can still use two for subwoofers. I'm thinking I'm going to go with a single Morel Ultimo Titanium for SQ.


Sounds like you have expensive taste in hardware. I've heard the Focal #7 in a competition car and it was awesome. Morel makes a fantastic sub. 

The decibel setting? Perhaps you are referring to the crossover slope. You use that setting to smoothly blend one speaker to another (sub to your midbass, midbass to your mid, and then mid to tweeter) and to match the natural frequency response of each speaker to achieve a natural sound. I'm certainly not an expert on tuning so I won't go any further on it. I only know enough to be somewhat dangerous. I haven't tuned my car in months- I keep busy with woodworking projects and building sub enclosures for my friends' cars lately and there's only so much time.

Ideal crossover settings are just about impossible to say in this context- it's different for every setup. A good starting point is use the specifications from the manufacturer and then experiment with it and see what works for you in your particular installation and for your ears.

For dual subs, you would only use 1 DSP channel and a Y-adapter for separate amps/2-channel amp or run both subs from the same mono amp. Tuning 2 sub channels to achieve what you want is nearly impossible. One of the magical things you can do with the time delay/alignment is adjust the delay until it sounds like the sub is up on the dash instead of in the rear. That's freakishly difficult if you are trying to tune 2 separate sub channels. A 3-way front stage and sub is 7 channels. The 8th can be used to run a front-center channel or a mono rear-fill.


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

Phew! It's gonna be fun �� Thanks for this good solid info! Now I know one sub probably easiest for SQ. Time delay is really a cool feature, even left to right alignment is necessary for that perfect stage i.e. Transdimensional space goat stage ��. Morel Ultimo Ti10 supposedly better than 12 for SQ and they both are rated 1000 RMS. Any experience with the Helix SPXL 1000 versus JL HD1200/1?


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

aykhan said:


> Phew! It's gonna be fun �� Thanks for this good solid info! Now I know one sub probably easiest for SQ. Time delay is really a cool feature, even left to right alignment is necessary for that perfect stage i.e. Transdimensional space goat stage ��. Morel Ultimo Ti10 supposedly better than 12 for SQ and they both are rated 1000 RMS. Any experience with the Helix SPXL 1000 versus JL HD1200/1?


Fun and character-building 

A centered stage depends on tuning the left and right EQ of each corresponding driver separately and then grouped until the left/right response curves match. If not, your stage will only be centered for certain frequencies and otherwise biased for other frequencies. Output levels also need to be balanced- drivers placed closer to your listening position will usually be louder but not always. Adjusting delay should only be done after EQ and output levels are set.

I thought that in order to have a deep-sounding stage you needed deep speaker placement. That certainly works well, but if you need to decide between a deep placement vs wide, go wide because you can "create" depth using grouped time delay between your front stage drivers. There is no adjustment to widen your soundstage.

My experience with tuning DSPs is limited to the Audison Bit One, Mosconi 6to8 and the Ground Zero. I hear nothing but good things about the Helix and their products. The Bit One has had too many quality control issues for me to recommend. Their remote displays almost always go funky and are prone to turn-off pops. Steer clear of the earlier versions unless you get a VERY good deal. Newer units are less risky. My Mosconi 6to8 has been awesome- zero noise/turn-off pops and I can tune it wirelessly via Bluetooth. The newer 8v-preout version is nice but I think the 4v preouts are plentry strong enough.

One other thing I would recommend when first setting up a DSP for safety: use a high-pass filter (capacitor) for your tweeters. Choose a capacitance value that is below your intended crossover point but not so low that would allow damaging frequencies. It's also a good idea to leave the turn-on/remote wire to the amplifiers disconnected while you do the initial crossover settings.

The JL HD-series amps are considered top-tier. I went with Arc Audio KS mini amps because of their small footprint which allowed me greater freedom with installation placement.


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

It might be a little off topic but then we are discussing active systems and EQ here. With a 3-way system my understanding is that you have to make the sub AND midbass work together to get that accurate kick. I am presuming this is accomplished by setting the crossovers in the DSP eg the subwoofers lowpass at 80Hz and the midbass lowpass at 250Hz and highpass at 80Hz? The midrange can be configured between 250-3500 and the tweeters highpassed at 3500Hz? Does this sound about right?

On a side note, there's quite a difference of opinion regarding a 10 inch and 12 inch sub for SQ. The Morel 10 and 12 inch are both rated at 1000 watts RMS and peak 3000. Would it be wiser to go with the 10 inch for SQ. The price difference is about 100 bucks so worth the jump if necessary.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

aykhan said:


> It might be a little off topic but then we are discussing active systems and EQ here. With a 3-way system my understanding is that you have to make the sub AND midbass work together to get that accurate kick. I am presuming this is accomplished by setting the crossovers in the DSP eg the subwoofers lowpass at 80Hz and the midbass lowpass at 250Hz and highpass at 80Hz? The midrange can be configured between 250-3500 and the tweeters highpassed at 3500Hz? Does this sound about right?
> 
> On a side note, there's quite a difference of opinion regarding a 10 inch and 12 inch sub for SQ. The Morel 10 and 12 inch are both rated at 1000 watts RMS and peak 3000. Would it be wiser to go with the 10 inch for SQ. The price difference is about 100 bucks so worth the jump if necessary.


I wish it were that easy. There are no hard rules about what size sub works well for SQ. Yep, size matters and there is a relationship with low/sub bass frequency response and impact, but more important is the musicality and tonal accuracy. Also, saying that sealed is always better vs ported for SQ is inaccurate- it just depends on the sub. I have a Boston 13" sub in a 1 cu ft sealed birch plywood enclosure in my 2-door hatchback and I absolutely love it. It's great for SQ and has an excellent deep bass fun factor. I built a ported wedge enclosure for a 12" Morel SC and finally got to listen to it in the Lexus SUV it fits this past weekend. Wicked fun yet tonally accurate and blended very well with 8" Morel midbass in the front doors. 

As for crossover settings, no hard rules either. The same set of speakers responds differently in a sedan vs a hatchback vs a truck. What you listed there sounds like a safe starting point for most any 3-way front stage + sub arrangement. The spec sheet of each driver is what I use as a starting point for crossover settings before the speakers see any amplified signal. This is important to avoid speaker damage, esp to tweeters. Just keep in mind that the crossover frequency is not a hard limit filter where no signal gets through. It's the frequency where the signal STARTS to become attenuated. The rate of the attenuation depends on the slope option and filter type (Linkwitz/Butterworth).

You might have to overlap or underlap your crossover points. You might have to set a steeper rolloff on the lowpass vs highpass. You might have to invert/adjust the phase setting depending on which slope you use. A 6db/octave causes a 90 degree phase shift, 12db = 180, 18db = 270, and 24db/octave = 360 degrees. DSPs do not automatically compensate for this. Most DSPs have a 0/180 setting. Some, like the Helix Pro have more options.

It's sorta possible to tune by ear if you are extraordinarily gifted and have more free time than you know what to do with. Otherwise, get a good microphone (flat-ish response with a calibration file, like the Dayton UMM-6) and RTA software (TrueRTA or REW) and get familiar with how to use it.


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## aykhan (Oct 22, 2015)

I didn't get an answer for tuning my 3-way speakers with the Helix P Six DSP on another thread maybe someone can advise here. Gadget01?

Another confusion for me. I'm nearing my install soon and trying to work everything through. When I setup the frequency graphs in the RTA of the p six software using the pink noise do I tune all 6 components of the 3-way individually (3 on left and 3 on right - tweeter, midrange, midbass) or do I link all three components of the left (and then later on right) and take my measurements?


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