# 2019 VW Jetta GLI S (Covid Build)



## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

First post pics didnt load


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

So... dont mind me, sorry if I am missing some pictures to go with the story but here is what I have. This build started off with me just wanting to add some subs for bass in the car. As time went on, between having time off from work because of the covid shutdown, I fell deep into the rabbit hole of car audio. This is my story...So I have 5K miles on the new VW, I had an 07 Audi A4 prior with subs and door speakers, all just upgrading factory locations, amps mounted to back seats. Nothing special. That was my intro to car audio. All my knowledge was researched from internet and trial and error. So with this VW I figured I would take that equipment and transfer it to this car. I had no idea about SQ in the beginning so as time goes on I will slowly upgrade my electrical as well as equipment.
-(2)Skar Audio Rp 150.4 (4Ch)
-(1)Skar Audio Rp 2000.1 (Monoblock)
-(2) 12" Skar DDX 12's in a 5 cube enclosure tuned 32hz
-(3) way front, Hertz Mp 70.3 Mille Pro 3" and Deaf Bonce T25 Neo tweets in pillars. 7" Anarchys in the kicks
-6.5" Deaf bonce Sylvesters rear doors

I chose the mounting location for the install in the spare tire location. I was able to use the chassis as the main mounting point to jump off from. I measured the area and cut a piece of 3/4 MDF for the base.







I made my own spare tire lock but much stronger to use as the mount for the amp rack. I cant remember the sizes but I used the biggest wing nut I was able to fit and screwed it onto a bolt and used that as the lock.the spare tire lock is similar but plastic. That gave me the threaded end of the bolt facing up so I could put washers and a nut over to secure in place.







As you can see, I built a raised platform mounting points for the amps so they would have airflow above and below them. Also raised because the power and ground distro blocks I mounted to the base. The back and front of the spare well I used as mounting locations. The peices of MDF once cut the dimensions were glued and screwed together. I would eventually mount a lid with threaded inserts to gain access to the amps. 0gauge wire to the left was my main grounding point. It eventually ran to the base ground distro so it was approx 12inches long. I used Duratex to paint the amp rack and panels, as well as the sub box.







At this point I am working on the car every day, little by little.I used 4 boxes of Allmat 80mil 36sq ft on the build. That's 144sq ft of that layer. Over that I used 5 boxes of Noico red 315mil 20sq ft Closed cell foam wherever I had the room for. I was able to line the spare tire well with the ccf also over the allmat just no picture of that.







I understand the law of diminishing returns but my OCD forced me to go for 100% coverage everywhere I could.














🤓Few pics of the process, I was able to line the entire trunk, as well as deep into every cavity I could reach into. With both layers. I also used both layers on the plastic panels wherever I was able to fit and still re install it correctly.





















Obviously I wasn't able to line the entire plastic panels with the CCF because of fitment. this is going to take a few posts bare with me...


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

Looks good so far! Keep them pics rollin'...


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

The 3 amps sit with 2 fans below them and plenty of airspace for air circulation. And 2 fans on the panel above to pull the air out the monoblock in the back is hard to see.







the folding panel is mounted in the back with 5 bolt locations into threaded inserts and 2 longer bolts in the front. DM810 secured also.







holes cutout of panel where the fans sit for airflow. I built a panel that bolts on top of this one and is mounted to the 2 longer cuts of MDF I have running on this panel. They are stacked, glued and screwed to the panel also with threaded insert bolting locations.







This panel is bolted securely and also rests on the rim of the spare tire well. This acts as a place to securely mount the sub box without ever having to drill anything using the OEM mounting location to secure the amp rack. I can shake the car with the amp rack. Super solid.







In the beginning I was going to run the Sylvesters in the factory for locations. So I sound treated the fronts and backs.







I used both layers also inside the door cavity as well. This was a long and grueling process. I also sound treated the back of the plastic door panels the same way. Might sound crazy but it probably took close to a month to complete. Especially with aiming for covering every inch I could.














Thanks to Covid I had plenty of time on my hands!😷


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

VW stock speakers used rivets to tie the speakers in.







I had to drill them out and install nutserts.














I used 1/2" Cellular PVC and made mounting rings.







Because of the design on the factory molex connectors there was no way for me to run speaker wire so I had to tap in to the factory wires. I soldered the speaker wires onto the factory lines. I drilled holes in the rings so that I could run the speaker wires through.







I used fast rings behind the speaker and around the cone. After installing all four doors with the Sylvesters I had the Deaf Bonce tweeters and the Hertz 3" for my first attempt at pillars. I did not know the importance of speaker aiming at this point so I just tried to design the pillars to be symmetrical.




























first layer of fleece and chop mat.







hand sanding


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Nice! I’m partial to VW/Audi builds. Good luck! Looks great so far


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

High build primer basecoat







If you notice on the table to the left I have one of the door panels I was soundproofing at the time. My OCD at its finest!




























sound treated, the white padding was part of the stock pillar, airbags behind the pillars so I added the ccf and then put the padding back on top of that.














after completing these I went on to learn the importance of speaker aiming. Running into a few issues with the mid to tweet integration due to the poor off axis response so I am going to be rebuilding these soon with proper aim and also upgrading with a respectable tweeter and possibly a different 3". Only way to learn is through trial and error.


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## mjfideler (Jun 21, 2020)

Nice work good sir! Can't wait to see when you get them rebuilt. Love the GLI's as well, keep it up!


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Now... here is where things start to get interesting. Before the pillars the idea was to stay as close to OEM as possible. Through research I chose the 3 way front and constructed the pillars. As I began to set the system up and get familiar with the DM810 I was introduced to a whole new world.... SQ!! This is where I found this forum and Pssound and my knowledge began to grow even more. Obviously I regret the purchase of the DM810. At the time a processor was a new concept for me. In the beginning all I knew was upgrading door speakers and subs. Just wanted louder. I had no knowledge of the frequency range, how sound works in a car and the importance of a good source to get you there. As I progressed on my build every day I watched videos, researched the internet. My life was consumed. When I began setting the gains for my amps I was using the factory deck high levels to the DSP. This is where I learned about the factory deck EQ and how it effects things overall. I looked into my options. At first I learned of the JL Fix, then the Nav TV products. I couldn't go Nav becuz my radio had no optical.














Neither of which was really worth the end result. So I chose to give up running the audio through the factory deck and bought a Fiio X5iii.







I figured, I use bluetooth from my phone anyway so I still have full use of my infotainment. I learned about staying in the digital domain into the DSP and the quality of music... the difference between poor music and lossless. The only thing good about the processor is that it plays 24bit 96 and supports Aptx HD. When I started watching Pssound and found this forum I learned there was a whole other world out there of better processors. Another upgrade in the future. So with the Fiio as my source I'm running Coax directly into DSP. Gave me a perfectly flat digital signal to start with. This also meant I had to go back and run wires again...







I ran the coax to the front console along with the volume control for the DSP.







it worked perfect considering the center console had a plastic cover I was able to remove to run wires through without having to alter anything.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Playing with the processor and seeing the frequency response I now began to delve down the hole of the midbass world. The sylvesters are just for loud. I had nothing to play in between the subs and mids. So at first I chose a pair of Morel Tiw 634ft Titaniums midbass to replace the sylvesters in the front. I stuck with the door location. I was happy with them but after binge watching pssound vids and learning more about proper midbass I wanted to do something big. So I decided to say screw the doors and move to the kicks... This completely changed everything. From going from a stealth build in the beginning to completely renovating my car...














Plenty of room in both areas for an enclosure, I just had to figure out where I would mount them and how I could still maintain some sort of legroom especially on drivers side. I started with the drivers side. After seeing where would be the best as a mounting location I had to remove the dead pedal.







Once removed I got rid of the bracket. This area of chassis was perfect there was already ventilation holes in this area so I was able to choose a spot that I knew was safe to drill through and wouldn't effect anything. There was about 5 inches between the chassis first layer and second. With closer inspection no water runs through this area either.







as you can see the bigger hole below, that was already part of the chassis and how I was able to see how much space I had to work with and what was beyond that. I dont know what kind of metal the VW chassis is made from but I used cutting oil and cobalt drill bits. It was a mission. I must of broke 6+ bits drilling using the oil + steady and slower revolutions. It was a pain. Once I was able to get a small hole through I enlarged the hole until I got the right size for a 1/4 20 nutsert.







Because of the differing shape and level of the chassis in this area I built a small base in a shape that traced a level region. The only small issue I would have to work with was the different angles of the nutsert. After getting the mounting location in order I got the back wall lined up first.







I live in an apartment building so I dont have the room to work on the car outside so I had to do the best I could with making cuts, taking the project inside and back out again, with the hot glue I was always able to reheat the glue to move pieces that were not level. As you can see with this first piece it had to be readjusted, leveled and cut short of the brake pedal. I also started the enclosure without including the mounting holes, You will see as this goes on how I was able to fix that huge oversight. If theres a will there's a way.







I could of obviously lined this area and made a chop mat mold of the shape, but I couldn't do that much work outside, and I wanted to do the entire closure with the MDF trying my best to make it as strong and resonance free as possible. So with the puzzle piece method I was able to add pieces as I went. I took my time and built the max dimensions first. I marked the line where I had to cut that piece so I could follow the contour of the footwell In order to get the airspace.







I was able to use the panel as a guideline when not in the car. It worked great. Because that would be the only wall not built from complete MDF, I sanded it down, drilled holes through, milkshakes the first layer so it would flow over all sides and through to give me a solid foundation and then I chop matted both sides.







I also used this same process over the MDF sides. Milkshake to flow around and through all the seams for the foundation and then layer upon layer of chop mat.







I did it in pieces like this so that I would have access to all sides of the structure without having to reach my hand through the speaker opening praying for full contact and no air bubbles. With this method I avoided air leaks, bubbles and just took my time. Thanks covid!


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

Your are doing a great job. Nice A-pillar build. I used a DM-608 for a long time as well. It certainly has its issues. Once you get used to it though, its not so bad. I even used it prior to the update. Before the update I couldn't even EQ seperate left and right independently. It is a very clean unit with high signal to noise ratio. The worst thing for me was the software. Its difficult to navigate from page to page. I like the JL TUN and Helix DSP's better. They are more user friendly and more powerful and most functions are on one page(no jumping back and forth while tuning). That being said the end result tune was always spectacular. If you like to change your tune a lot then sell it and get something else. If you just want to get it to the point where things sound good and you never touch it again then it is a keeper.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

There were also lots of workarounds I had to deal with. I needed to make sure to leave room for the hood latch, my hand to be able to get to the hood latch, room to get a screwdriver to the back of it in order to remove the handle to service the panel...







I also had to design the shape so there would still be access to the vag com plug.







This was not an easy project by any means. Especially not having the proper workspace, but with the time on my hands I pushed on.







Here is where I caught onto the fact that how was I going to line up the mounting holes to the base. This was a huge error I made and I wasn't sure how I was going to fix this. As I said before, if there is one thing I learned through all of this install, there is always a way to do something. Might have to change or sacrifice something but completion is always possible
I also measured and built the panel thus far before measuring the gap between the chassis and the back wall of the enclosure. Here is how I solved this. I cut a whole out of the back wall of the enclosure and put it in its location. I then used smaller blocks of mdf until they reached into the enclosure. I then hot glued the top piece so that I had the proper distance accounted for and the angle.







I dont have a picture of the last part of that process but once I hot glued and got that top piece where it needed to be I puzze peiced and milkshaked that wall back together.







I then used that peice to mock up the remaining space between the enclosure and mounting base. I traced the mdf pieces in a shape so that I only had to remove as little of the OEM insulation as possible.





















Next I moved on to shaping the front of the enclosure. I angled the bottom up so that the speaker would be properly aimed at me and it gave more room for my left foot.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Every wall of the enclosure I used the same process, my OCD would not allow me to cheat anywhere, I would puzzle peice, tape off the seams and pour the shake on 1 side, then remove the tape and pour the other side so the milkshake was always flowing through every seam. Then chopmat layers and more milkshake layers also inside.




























Layers







The enclosure was becoming very solid.





















After installing the baffle I poured more glass inside and also more layers of chop mat. Both mounting locations along back wall.







Now ot was time to make this thing look pretty. Building an enclosure this way, between all the layers and dry times I easily had a month into the project thus far. This was on just the driver enclosure. I knew turning this thing into a smooth flowing shape was not going to be easy...


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Now mind you, I have plenty of tools, a DA and a rotary, but I could not use them indoors so this entire enclosure was hand sanded so you can use your imagination of how hard this was if you have any experience with this.














I knew as I would build up the shape with body filler this inlet area was going to be tough.




























after installing the mounting ring I put a few layers of chop mat on the outside and inside as well to add more strength to the entire baffle.






















Threaded inserts for mounting the woofer


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Starting to resemble something at this point...


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

The FG fab work looks incredible! Should you ever do more fab work like this I'd suggest using a better filler that's easier to sand-Bondo is like a rock. I'm also curious how you like the DM810?


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

At this point I was moving up in grit. Filling pin holes. Started with 80, sanded to 400.





















Little by little it was getting there...



































It takes time and dedication to get the curves this smooth and edges that sharp.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

mfenske said:


> The FG fab work looks incredible! Should you ever do more fab work like this I'd suggest using a better filler that's easier to sand-Bondo is like a rock. I'm also curious how you like the DM810?


I really dont have any experience with DSP prior to now. But as I'm starting to get familiar with tuning I do wish I had a fully parametric processor. And also no ability to run differential rear fill. These Audio control processors are very basic. I will be upgrading in the near future.


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## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

Those enclosures are very nice!

why can’t you use the DM810 to run rear fill?


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

SQ_Bronco said:


> Those enclosures are very nice!
> 
> why can’t you use the DM810 to run rear fill?


"Differential" rear fill. There is tons of info on here about differential rear fill. In order to do it you have to be able to control polarity on individual speakers and also L+R signal. You can only swap polarity as a pair through the processor.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Lastly, I mixed up a milkshake with the filler and added some leadshot and poured that into the enclosure.














Once completed I filled the enclosure with water to test for any possible leak and to measure the volume. The enclosure was easily 15+ lbs all said and done and I had 10liters. I drilled a hole for wiring and used connectors so I could seal the wiring to the box and easily remove and service enclosures and speakers.In this picture you can see how thick the layers of chopmat plus the glass are. That is the panel wall. I Easily added over an inch in mass to it. You can see the black layer in the middle is the plastic panel.














Next I prepped them for a high build primer.





















I used SEM trim black paint for the base coat.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Ordered a new pair of Anarchys.














the base price of MDF I cut to mount off had to be taped into position so that the mounting holes lined up correctly with the nutserts.







I tried using double stick tape but as I said before, the shape and surface area of the chassis made it very complicated for the piece to stay put. I couldn't mount this piece to the back of the enclosure because the dimensions were too large to be able to fit it back in so this was my only option. Once in I tied it down with 5inch 1/4 20 bolts.







As you can see I'm short so I still have some room for my left foot at the bottom. I'm more than happy to sacrifice that space!





















You can see now why I had to design it in the shape I did. Literally to get the max airspace I could and also leave room for the hood latch and ECU plug.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Door shut, still follows the flow of the door panel














I said how I was unhappy with my pillars because I just didnt have the same knowledge and understanding I did when I built these. These are so solid and mounted just as firm as the amp rack where I can shake the entire car pulling and pushing on these.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

The craftsmanship is amazing! For me, that would be uncomfortable especially on a drive of any significant distance. Hopefully your legs are short lol


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Jaloosk said:


> The craftsmanship is amazing! For me, that would be uncomfortable especially on a drive of any significant distance. Hopefully your legs are short lol


I'm pretty short. It's actually not as bad as you would think. It works out perfect for me. I gladly made that sacrifice and I travel for my career. Give and take with this hobby


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Now onto the passenger side enclosure... I had plenty of space to work with







First thing I did was start to get my outside maximum dimensions together. I used the same method as before, puzzle piece it together and glass it as I go.














Doing it this way I am able to make it strong because I can control the pour flowing through all the joins and seams. And it also makes it easier to apply the chop mat evenly and avoid bubbles. Adding strength is key














This will be my mounting point.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

In order to get the kick panel side wall and mounting hole I made sure to get this established first. I made that mistake last time. Once I got it lined up I was able to start building onto that.




























Adding layers and another wall







You can see here the seams, how the milkshake flows right through . Filling all gaps. And then chop mat on top of it to add mass and more strength.














Now that I had the outside of the enclosure I was able to test fit and start adding what would be the front. When I add pieces I use hot glue, but not a lot. I only use it at small select locations just to get the pieces lined up and then I use the shake to concrete it together.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Once I had the angles on the panel wall I was able to start filling in the gaps. I poured from the inside first. I put tape on the outside to control it and keeping it in place until it hardens.





















Now I am building towards the woofer baffle, it's funny building these enclosures like this vs the way they come out. The fact that I am able to take all this scrap would and turn it into one smooth shape amazes me. Deff not easy. Time and dedication I'm telling ya.














This will be the wall that connects the shape to the kick panel







Adding layers and layers of chop mat to the inside before I start closing it up.














I added this piece first, pouring from the inside.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

After the flat side of the front I started to puzzle peice the angle the woofer baffle would sit at.





















Once I had the angle the way I wanted it and had the pour on the inside I was ready to get the baffle lined up. I used 3/4 MDF and chamfered it for better airflow and I also glued peices on the back to notch into place. It also gave me more depth for the speaker mounting bolts.





















I left the gaps so that I would be able to add pour all through the baffle. After that I started to pour inside and out.







I also added layers of chop mat all the way to the opening.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

I poured one last time a giant mix of shake with lead shot all through the inside. Now ready for shaping.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Sanding to 400 and the adding threaded inserts for mounting.



































Time for paint, just put small pieces of tape over mounting holes. Speaker covers them anyway so they wont be seen.







smooth as can be.







I didnt have the work out the imperfections on the top back and left side because neither of them will be exposed after placement. Just the front.














I added the remaining pieces of MDF that filled the gap between the mounting wall and the car mount peices. Then I sealed the wiring to the enclosure with some glass. Connectors on each side for easy service.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

This one came to 11 liters. I filled it with water to measure. Ready to install...





















I will have to build some custom grills and I also have to finish filling the shape by the panel to fully blend with the panel. Here I was test fitting and taking some photos.


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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

My hat is off to you! Not my style but your effort and tenacity truly embody a DIYer! In fact I nominate you DIYMA of the Month! It appears you did this in your living room too! With all the sanding you had to do I can't even imagine the dust everywhere! That was a lotta work and now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor! Good job!


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

I built a small little enclosure that housed the wiring to my volume knob, coax cable to processor and sub knob. I also fiberglass a magnet into it so it would act as a mount for the fiio player. Its secured in place with Neo magnets so it does not move or rattle. Very secure. Still room on the right side for the OEM USB input.




























Its so convenient when changing songs. Rather than fiddling with where to put the fiio, you just hold it close to the mount and it snaps right to the magnets. Works great in the dark when you cant see and it matches the interior.I left some slack for the coax so I wouldn't have to unplug it every time I want to grab it


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

DaveG said:


> My hat is off to you! Not my style but your effort and tenacity truly embody a DIYer! In fact I nominate you DIYMA of the Month! It appears you did this in your living room too! With all the sanding you had to do I can't even imagine the dust everywhere! That was a lotta work and now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor! Good job!


Thankyou kind sir, yes I had to do some serious cleaning afterwards. During the covid shutdown my living room turned into a tool shed...it was madness


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## slowride (Jan 26, 2009)

Pretty good creativity. I enjoy VAG builds as I was a VW dealer tech for 20 years. Because of this I can't help but notice that OBD plug is vertical and the factory VW OBD wifi dongle is at least 6 inches in length (longer if the tech needs to connect via usb). You may not have enough room if the dealer or independent has to connect to it.


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## JimmyDee (Mar 8, 2014)

I can appreciate the massive amount of work you've put into this. Nice job!

My only question is; _"can you still dive the car? comfortably?"_


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