# Sound Deadening Alternatives



## deepwater (Aug 16, 2010)

I am in the tile flooring business. We use and sell a product called Proflex. Which is a peal and stick crack/sound membrane. It comes in 40mil, 70 mil and 90mil. My cost per 200s/f roll is under $250.00 pending the thickness. PROFLEX? Crack Isolation, Moisture Control, Sound Reduction

I have looked at the product next to the standard " car audio" products and do not see much of a difference. In fact, I think this product will work even better at 40 mil thickness. 

Do you guys think I should give it a shot? Im going to put it in my company cargo van first since its load as crap without any wall panels.


----------



## Pirate4x4_camo (Aug 23, 2010)

Looks like it even comes in a 90mil thickness.

I am looking for the tech sheet on it but it certainly seems to be made for the application and worthy of consideration.


----------



## onebadmonte (Sep 4, 2008)

Look for temp ratings. Last thing you want is to line a door or the roof you car and have the adhesive fail.


----------



## ttocs388 (Jun 25, 2010)

idunno, they do not say anything about what it is made of so it is hard for us to say yea/nea.....


----------



## Pirate4x4_camo (Aug 23, 2010)

ttocs388 said:


> idunno, they do not say anything about what it is made of so it is hard for us to say yea/nea.....


they tell you what material class it is constructed from as well as give the ASTM test results for sound transmission. I looked and found it odd that dynamat either does do, or will not publish their ASTM test results. Probably because dynamat is a consumer product and this stuff is a commercial product used to build things that must meet standards and building codes.


http://proflex.us/pdf/MSC DATA TA 05-09.pdf


so now that you know what it is made of and it's sound transmission values, what are your opinions of the product ?


----------



## onebadmonte (Sep 4, 2008)

I say go for it if you are going to line the floor of your car. It's not going to stick for long if you put it on your doors or roof. The only temp rating they give is for storage, and that's only good up to 95*F. The inside of a car on a sunny day will hit 130*F. See if you can get a sample and try it.


----------



## Pirate4x4_camo (Aug 23, 2010)

onebadmonte said:


> I say go for it if you are going to line the floor of your car. It's not going to stick for long if you put it on your doors or roof. .



dynamite is rated at 46in/lbs on cold steel

proflex is rated at 10in/lbs on Concrete 

I bet it is plenty sticky to work on the steel doors and roof.


----------



## cheesehead (Mar 20, 2007)

Curious as to why these three members stated that the poster should have searched first?

Notloudenuf
sam3535
M-Dub

I did a search for proflex and only came up with one result other than this thread. And that one was for proflex rca cables. 



Unless I'm missing something (which is quite possible) I think this is a good thread that might lead to alternatives for some people that have access to this product.


----------



## Pirate4x4_camo (Aug 23, 2010)

I sent the company an email earlier today asking if they had any experience with automotive interior acoustics and mobile audio using their product. I will post any correspondence I get back from them.


----------



## deepwater (Aug 16, 2010)

Pirate4x4_camo said:


> dynamite is rated at 46in/lbs on cold steel
> 
> proflex is rated at 10in/lbs on Concrete
> 
> I bet it is plenty sticky to work on the steel doors and roof.


The stuff is as sticky as homemade Friday night sin. Infact the hotter it gets the more sticky the goo on the back becomes. I am going to put some on the ceiling of my cargo van. Since I am in South Ga I will see how it does in the heat down here. To be honest I worry more about it coming loose in the cold.


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

cheesehead said:


> Curious as to why these three members stated that the poster should have searched first?
> 
> Notloudenuf
> sam3535
> ...


only thing I can think of is searching for what is needed for sound deadening in general. There have been MANY discussions on the board regarding the different types of materials and functions. To damp the resonance of the metal, general consensus is that a butyl adhesive layer and an aluminum top layer. Both are needed to convert vibration to heat. If you don't have the mass of the upper constraining layer (aluminum), the effect isn't as desirable. Check out the basic old asphalt based dynamat vs. the butyl aluminum.... only one really works for the intended purpose.

As far as sound blocking, that has to do with MASS of the product used. Mass loaded vinyl is generally used in automotive environments; but it needs to be decoupled from the surface. OEM often use felt liners, but closed cell foam has been preferred for water resistance for aftermarket uses.

Not sure where this product fits in the equation damping - deadening - blocking.


----------



## deepwater (Aug 16, 2010)

slade1274 said:


> only thing I can think of is searching for what is needed for sound deadening in general. There have been MANY discussions on the board regarding the different types of materials and functions. To damp the resonance of the metal, general consensus is that a butyl adhesive layer and an aluminum top layer. Both are needed to convert vibration to heat. If you don't have the mass of the upper constraining layer (aluminum), the effect isn't as desirable. Check out the basic old asphalt based dynamat vs. the butyl aluminum.... only one really works for the intended purpose.
> 
> As far as sound blocking, that has to do with MASS of the product used. Mass loaded vinyl is generally used in automotive environments; but it needs to be decoupled from the surface. OEM often use felt liners, but closed cell foam has been preferred for water resistance for aftermarket uses.
> 
> Not sure where this product fits in the equation damping - deadening - blocking.


So what you are saying is that I need to glue some Reynolds Products on the top of it and it will work?


----------



## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

All of the CLD material I have used from various sources have an aluminum layer that is way thicker than foil. You can look at the specs of the various products and see what the aluminum thickness is to achieve the desired results.

Second skin damplifer/damplifier pro
SDS 
dynamat xtreme
B-quiet
Raamat
Eastwood thermo-coustic


I was just trying to help as cheaper alternatives are only saving money if they work for the intended purpose.


----------



## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Did the rules change? You are not supposed to tell people to search in this forum.

The problem with some sticky products is they fall off in the heat. I used some peel and stick roofing stuff and it works great, but on the rear of my trunk where its vertical part of it comes loose sometimes. That area is in the sun. On the floor and wheel wells I have no problems with it, its cheap but is kind of thin so has to be layered on.

I would guess it would work well since it is for noise and has similar construction. Your issues will be if it falls off in non-floor places where you don't have a way of holding it on such as a panel screwed over it/etc. Sometimes you can screw a strip over it or go around a corner or something and it will be fine. Since the floor is where most road noise comes from, use it there and get something else for vertical problem areas.

The felt stuff works well IMO. I used to raid boneyards all the time and snag factory stuff out of luxury cars when I was doing lots of work on cars.


----------

