# Two 4 gauge vs. One 1/0 or 2 gauge ?



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I already have my 4 gauge wire, stinger blocks, etc. Each amp will be running around 30 amps. Will be using circuit breaker with ring terminals for wiring fus.

Any reason I can't simply run two strands of 150 amp capable 4 gauge at this point rather than scrap everything I've got to move up to 2 gauge or 1/0 gauge?

I don't think I'll be pressing my wiring limits initially, but when I get ready to add in my next amp, I'll be getting close and want the extra capability for current flow.

The blocks accept two 4 gauge in's and four 8 gauge outs.

Could I simply run two 4 gauge from battery to circuit breaker, two from circuit breaker to block? Then do the same on my ground block with two 4 gauge circuits to frame?

Would this truly give me 300 amps capability, or would doubling wire not really work as simply as doubling capacity?


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

txbonds said:


> I already have my 4 gauge wire, stinger blocks, etc. Each amp will be running around 30 amps. Will be using circuit breaker with ring terminals for wiring fus.
> 
> Any reason I can't simply run two strands of 150 amp capable 4 gauge at this point rather than scrap everything I've got to move up to 2 gauge or 1/0 gauge?
> 
> ...


Double the wire double the current of one wire. Double 4 gauge versus 1/0 or 2, dunno, not as easy to calculate.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Double the wire double the current of one wire. Double 4 gauge versus 1/0 or 2, dunno, not as easy to calculate.


Okay, so as long as all wires are connected to same blocks, then current will pretty much flow universally through all wires? Just want to make sure that some how you can't overload one wire by the current choosing one over the other.

In my head it makes perfect sense that the current just goes evenly divided down both wires, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.

Bennefit to this approach would simply be not having to toss my current gear to the side and replace it with more costly 1/0 or 2 gauge. If doubling the 4 gauge doubles my capacity, then I'm more than covered for my uses. One 4 gauge would probably be fine, but if I get to 100 to 120 amps total, rather have more capacity than just the one 4 gauge for both safety and for dynamics.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

txbonds said:


> Okay, so as long as all wires are connected to same blocks, then current will pretty much flow universally through all wires? Just want to make sure that some how you can't overload one wire by the current choosing one over the other.
> 
> In my head it makes perfect sense that the current just goes evenly divided down both wires, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
> 
> Bennefit to this approach would simply be not having to toss my current gear to the side and replace it with more costly 1/0 or 2 gauge. If doubling the 4 gauge doubles my capacity, then I'm more than covered for my uses. One 4 gauge would probably be fine, but if I get to 100 to 120 amps total, rather have more capacity than just the one 4 gauge for both safety and for dynamics.


Yeah as long as they are the same length and meet at the same block that you will be feeding all your amps from, then the only difference would be the insulation separating the 2 groups of wire strands.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Yeah as long as they are the same length and meet at the same block that you will be feeding all your amps from, then the only difference would be the insulation separating the 2 groups of wire strands.


For whatever it's worth, my wire is Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 4 gauge, which is rated up to 150 amps with 2058 strands of wire.

Their 1/0 gauge is rated to over 300 amps with 5145 strands of wire.

Two 4 gauge would be 4116 strands of wire, and theoretically rated up to 300 watts then I guess. That's still 1029 less strands of wire, but again for a load of up to 120 amps, I don't see the point in dumping my current blocks, wire, etc, just to go up to single strand 1/0 gauge. 

Also, I figured running two 4 gauge would be easier than fitting one 1/0 gauge in some places.

Thanks for the input.


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## ViperVin (Mar 15, 2008)

how many amps do you plan on running? that knukonceptz wire is good stuff and can safely handle about 1700-1800 wrms.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

ViperVin said:


> how many amps do you plan on running? that knukonceptz wire is good stuff and can safely handle about 1700-1800 wrms.


I'm basing it on their rated amperage given on their site. The 4 gauge I have says it's rated to 150 amps. 

I'm only starting out with two 2 channel amps that are fused at 30 amps each, and have max amp ratings slightly higher.

However, long term goals will probably include more amps. Plus the thought in the back of my head is "what if I want to change to something different" and knowing I can simply strap in a second wire (or do it during install) and be covered for more amps, means not having to kill myself trying to sell this and buy more expensive 1/0 gear now.


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## miztahsparklez (Jan 11, 2006)

well you also have to calculate if its cheaper to buy 0 ga.. or cheaper to buy 4ga.

previously, i ran two 4ga lines.. then upgraded to a single 0ga to keep things simple. or if you cant figure out how to hide a large diameter wire under your carpet.. then id run the two 4ga


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

In my case, it will be way cheaper, because I already have enough 4 guage wire on hand I think. Only thing I would need to add is a second 4 gauge ground terminal, but that's like a $6 item.

Going 1/0 for me at this point would mean new wire, new ground wire, new ground terminal, new ring terminals, new distribution power and ground blocks. Not cheap by any means.


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## miztahsparklez (Jan 11, 2006)

probably not.. i would just add the second 4 ga run...

i ended up using my 4ga and chopping it up to go from my distro blocks to the amps. nothing went to waste


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## Toxis (Feb 4, 2008)

General wire rule. Double the wire = gauge "decreases" by 3. So two runs of 10awg is equivalent to a 7awg. 2 4awg = 1awg. That's why the 1/0 has more strands because it is slightly thicker still.


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## drake78 (May 27, 2007)

You could do a simple voltage test drop to see if you power cable is adequate. Crank you system up high. Then with a DMM measure the voltage at the battery. Then go in the back of your trunk measure the voltage at the amp. If there is around a 0.3 voltage drop or more. You have pretty high resistance and will probably want to upgrade to a bigger power cable.


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

http://www.knukonceptz.com/assets/pdf/PowerWireSpec.pdf
Maybe you should check out the above to see is an upgrade needed or not, since budget is in your mind now.


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## drake78 (May 27, 2007)

Here is a voltage drop tutorial in detail. http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

kyheng said:


> http://www.knukonceptz.com/assets/pdf/PowerWireSpec.pdf
> Maybe you should check out the above to see is an upgrade needed or not, since budget is in your mind now.


Wow, they are claiming thier Kolossus Fleks 4 gauge wire to be actually equivalent to standard gauge of 2.97 awg. They also show capacity of 150 to 200 amps for that wire. Realizing it doesn't take distance into effect, but it does imply that this particular product is overbuilt for it's task and is probably fine up to 120 amps on one run of it.

That said though, probably no harm either in using 2 runs if I have enough available to do so.


Thanks for all the replies. Good information.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

From a technicians view, feel the wire if it is getting warm{Kewl}, if it is getting hot, add a second 

Technically you have to derate wires as they heat up[you hang those bishes off of telephone poles in free air on an icy night and they will carry a little more ].

heat is the enemy, I set a double ziploc bag wrapped in tinfoil on a horizontal
plate amp[so air can flow through]connect it to subwoofers{10 % distortion is easily masked }then throw on some 0.50 cent [sound quality music  ].


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