# Plastic Weld sail panel



## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Just thought I'd try something different. My kid is laid up with strep and flu so I decided to finally install my GB15. It turns out that the GB15 is too deep for the factory location when trying to put the panel back.

I bought extra sail panels for my Honda a while back, some JB plastic weld, and body filler. The putty is nice because I can just shape it how I want. Supposed to take 25 minutes to cure. I wanted to retain some flexibility due to the way it installs to the door

Here's a link to the product

https://www.jbweld.com/products/plasticweld-epoxy-putty

I guess we'll see how it turns out





































Edit:

Final product


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Nice clean work.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

That last photo isn't finished  that's before I realized the Tweeter is too deep for factory location

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## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Nice work!!! What did you use to cover that?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I'll provide final thoughts later. I'm waiting on it to cure now. This will end with "don't ever do this" or a nice clean finish *crossing fingers*

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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

So it will have to be sanded to shape after it cures?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Truthunter said:


> So it will have to be sanded to shape after it cures?


Yup. It says it's sand-able and for automotive use. When I fiberglassed my pillars I lost flexibility for reinstall. To get in and out these sail panels contort a bit. So I started looking at epoxies.

I just have to kneed this and place like silly putty. I didn't use gloves and it costs $7. I bought filler for smoothing just in case. I'll use texture paint for finishing. So far it's fairly strong but I didn't need it for structural.

I guess the other option is I could have made a small relief cut behind the Tweeter with my Dremel. 

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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Pretty neat

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## thornygravy (May 28, 2016)

looks great! :thumbsup:


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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

The smell of that JB weld just popped into my head as I was checking out your pictures - it’s certainly unique 

As others have already said, I’m interested to hear how the sanding goes. 

I’d really like to flush my tweeters into my sail panels, but I’m pretty sure the outcome would be disastrous..


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

It didn't smell! Probably the easiest thing I've ever done.

Updates... Quick 40 grit shaping and filler. I'm using whatever I can find locally. So it's just Bondo from up the street *shrug*

I'm very much an amateur so be nice 























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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Also... Between my son and chores... I've spent about 30 minutes on this. It seemed tacky when I took the sandpaper to it after about 45 minute wait time. 

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## Bayboy (Dec 29, 2010)

Not bad for the materials used. I have the same issue with Tacoma sail panels. I would like to use a larger pair of tweets and more on-axis, but there's very little room to flush them. I've been thinking of ways to fab up something without going all out, but it isn't easy. 

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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Truthfully, the extra install gear from Audiofrog is the difference maker. I think if I had spent more time molding the JB weld properly then the filler wouldn't be needed.

On the next sail I'll try harder so I can skip that step. The plastic weld gave me plenty of time to mold and shape.

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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Robert, I like that you find simple & quick DIY ways to integrate equipment cleanly. No need to spend days on custom fabrication or pay big bucks to have someone else do it in order to make it look cosmetically acceptable. I'm always brainstorming on ways to do that in my car. I wish there was more of this on this here "DIY" forum.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I really appreciate that! There's plenty of us that try to approach this somewhat frugally. Additionally, it feels good when you have a finished product you don't mind showing others.

Here's my update...I think I'm getting close...

That last one is primer and fill. 40 grit was a bad idea. I finished up with 120 just in case. Sanding block/sponge kept me from making too many mistakes.





































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## naiku (May 28, 2008)

Hope your son starts to feel better, strep and the flu, the sucks.

The tweeter pods are looking really good. Definitely interested to see how they turn out, love the idea of just using what you can find locally.



Truthunter said:


> I'm always brainstorming on ways to do that in my car. I wish there was more of this on this here "DIY" forum.


100% agree, there are some guys on here that do incredible work, but the "DIY" can sometimes be lacking. That's in no way meant to be an insult to anyone who chooses to pay an installer, but seeing what can be done with readily available material by someone who is not an installer is cool. I'm already wondering if I could use some of this on my kick panels should I ever decide to try getting something larger in there.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Subscribed, interested to see how this comes out. Looks good so far. I’ve got a pair of those on the way too.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I can tell you that it is very strong. I cut popsicle sticks with scissors and borrowed the wife's glue gun. The plastic weld is wrapped around it touching the aluminum ring (thanks Audiofrog!) and sail panel.

I've been fairly rough while sanding and this thing is solid and a little flexible. This JB plastic weld is much better for this small job than fiberglass imo

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## bnae38 (Oct 3, 2015)

I did something similar quite awhile ago with moldable 2part epoxy, turned out pretty good. There are pvc couplers buried in there too.

Lots of sanding


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Pretty happy with this. The filler ran a little in the crease. I can fix that easily. Hopefully I can throw some texture and paint on it before bed. Not bad for doing this as an after thought throughout the day
















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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

bnae38 said:


> I did something similar quite awhile ago with moldable 2part epoxy, turned out pretty good. There are pvc couplers buried in there too.
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of sanding


If it weren't for the sanding... This thing would have been done hours ago! I'm really excited with how quickly this came together though. I almost went with Gary Biggs CA glue method

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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Nice work, I like that CA glue method posted here


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Looking great man. Thanks for sharing.


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## soundstreamer (Jun 2, 2015)

Great work and I like the way they look. I think I might have to give this a try with my sail panel tweeters to help get them slightly more on axis. Will the plastic weld attach to mdf or some other wood if I use them to mount my tweeters to?

Depending on how it turns out for me I might even try using this for some small mids in my a-pillar once I figure out what I want to use.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Looks like a win. Time to start on the other sail panel
















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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Looks great Robert!

BTW, do you think you'll be able to make it to Ian's meet in April?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I'm trying! My mids are already installed. I'm thinking 10" sub IB through the rear deck. My amp and processor aren't in yet either. So I have a to-do list









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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Very cool! What a great idea! Awesome job! Thank you for sharing!


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Truthunter said:


> Looks great Robert!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, do you think you'll be able to make it to Ian's meet in April?


BTW... Noticed some nice changes in your build since I heard it. I think listening to everybody's vehicle was the single best thing I've done since starting the hobby. I hope there's a strong showing and good weather 

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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Pretty happy with this. The filler ran a little in the crease. I can fix that easily. Hopefully I can throw some texture and paint on it before bed. Not bad for doing this as an after thought throughout the day
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What type of primer and paint did you use? 

Looks great!


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## Nickb91 (Jan 23, 2019)

Great idea and looks great 

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## therapture (Jan 31, 2013)

I am so IN for trying this method! I have a terrible response off axis @60 degrees left side 2" wideband that just cannot be EQ'ed around.

Fiber glassing was where I was looking but that seems very involved and messy. I am going to do this!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I saw your FS post for the GB25/GB10 setup. I see here you switched to a GB15, are you replacing the GB25 with something else, or eliminating it by going to the larger tweeter?

I was ready to buy them, but missed them by minutes. LOL

Jay


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Sorry! I'm just eliminating them with larger Tweeter. In my Jetta I had the GB25 in kick panels. I had a bad RCA that popped my Tweeter and I was stuck running the GB25s up to 20KHz

It sounded great. So I figured I'd move to a large format Tweeter in my accord coupe since I didn't have the same room in my kick panel. Plus, the door speaker is so far forward it's essentially the same thing. I could have fab'd something in the kicks but I wanted to keep things simple this time around as I'm gonna try my hand at tuning again... Getting away from MS-8.

So I may have a few more items for sale too if you're interested...MS-8, hd900/5, maybe my subs

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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Sorry! I'm just eliminating them with larger Tweeter. In my Jetta I had the GB25 in kick panels. I had a bad RCA that popped my Tweeter and I was stuck running the GB25s up to 20KHz
> 
> It sounded great. So I figured I'd move to a large format Tweeter in my accord coupe since I didn't have the same room in my kick panel. Plus, the door speaker is so far forward it's essentially the same thing. I could have fab'd something in the kicks but I wanted to keep things simple this time around as I'm gonna try my hand at tuning again... Getting away from MS-8.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'm specifically looking to switch from my Illusion C3CX (one of the tweeters is blown) to a GB25/GB10 combo.
Thanks!

Jay


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

That's a great speaker combo! Sorry to hear about that :/ The Audiofrogs were run with 24dB slopes. They can take a beating. So you shouldn't have those issues 

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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Tweeter was basically bad out of the box. I had initially used the passives that came with the set. Then later I took those out because the left tweeter was about 17dB quieter than the right side. I had my active crossovers set at a safe setting (like 4k at 24dB/slope) just for testing to see if it was a crossover. I grabbed an old Kenwood soft dome from a component set I was saving for my GF's Nephew and popped it in and it was fine. So, I've been running them for over a year now. The car did well in the one comp I have done this year, but it needs to do better. I would like to pick up 1 good C3CX or change the whole setup to something that will hold up.

Jay


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

All done.

My son was adamant that it had to be a shiny black
























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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Very nice!!!

How you gonna keep your eyes on the road tho?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Lol

I tried hard. I was teaching him to paint too

















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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Very cool! Looks even better in close-up!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Nice job.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Sweet. Thanks for showing us the step by step. Looks great!


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## dsquared (Aug 10, 2016)

Nice work !
How’s it sound Rob ?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

dsquared said:


> Nice work !
> 
> How’s it sound Rob ?


It's playing with factory amplifier. I have to admit the factory tune is really good for two seats. It's only lacking in the sub department. But leaving the GB10 on the right side... Playback was slightly better with the GB15 tbh. But that's a side effect of the 12dB slope on the factory tune. I'm working on the second pod now.

I have a feeling the GB10 is slightly louder than the GB15. I think the GB15 is closer to a proper level match with the GB60

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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Chris12 said:


> What type of primer and paint did you use?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great!


This is what I used... Thanks for the compliments too. Definitely still amateur. A better painter could make it look great









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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

Man these turned out great!


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## SPAZ (Jan 7, 2009)

Looks good!


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## 06gtmike (Sep 30, 2009)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Lol
> 
> I tried hard. I was teaching him to paint too
> 
> ...


Love to meet up sometime and check these out when you get a chance


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## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

Ive used that stuff for a dozen or so projects and every time Im surprised how easy it is to use. Ive used from building up things like you have, to uses as an epoxy to hold parts together even repair a hole in stucco, tap it and reinstall a better door bell.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I wish I had known back when I tried doing this the first time. It's really strong, easy to mold, and sand-able. It's perfect for these jobs.

I'm almost done with the second pod. I think body filler is still a must though. I tried to avoid it :/ but it doesn't actually add much work

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## bravesbaseball17 (Sep 15, 2018)

Like others have said, this is great. It's posts like these that keep me coming back to this website, and this hobby. All too often I get caught up watching videos from Car Audio Fabrication and thinking 'there's no way in hell I would or could ever do that'. 

Nice work, and nice write up!


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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

This is exactly what I am trying to do (never attempted fiberglass/body fill) for my 2004 GS430. I’ve got the holes cut in tweeter panels to mount tweeter cups, but because the tweeter panel itself is Polypropylene I’m confused what materials I can use. I have found an epoxy from 3M (ez sand plastic repair) I think will work but it’s expensive, they have many different kinds, I have to buy a special applicator gun, and still don’t know if once I epoxy it will body filler stick to PP plastic and/or the epoxy?

Should I try the Gary Biggs version instead? 

Also, Because I removed the grill which wrapped all around tweeter panel(the tweeter grill that’s built in sticks out too far to fit behind factory grill) there is a gap all around the perimeter of the tweeter panel that snaps into sail panel. Not sure if trying to fill that in or “build out” the perimeter of the tweeter panel will change what materials I should be using. 
Any suggestions anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

You shouldn't really need structural support when building a sail panel. That's why Gary Biggs uses CA glue. I never intended for the JB PlasticWeld to bond. But I guess it did. I don't know what kind of plastic was used for my sail panel either. Maybe find a way to attach and just let the PlasticWeld be fascia only?



Any chance you could provide photos? I wanted mine to integrate with the base of the sail panel so I wouldn't have issues with 'snapping' them back in to place on the door. I was able to taper this putty down on the edges before sanding. Workable time was plenty.


Are you certain the parts are PP?


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## therapture (Jan 31, 2013)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Lol
> 
> I tried hard. I was teaching him to paint too
> 
> ...




These look so good I am considering moving my 2" to the sail panel rather than the somewhat narrower A pillar trim location.


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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

I800C0LLECT said:


> You shouldn't really need structural support when building a sail panel. That's why Gary Biggs uses CA glue. I never intended for the JB PlasticWeld to bond. But I guess it did. I don't know what kind of plastic was used for my sail panel either. Maybe find a way to attach and just let the PlasticWeld be fascia only?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, I’m installing a Morel MT23 1-1/4” tweet and is replacing what I believe to be smaller than 1” factory Mark Levinson tweeter so I had to hog-out a decent amount of the panel so it’s quite flimsy now. 

That is why I was looking at those epoxies because they could double as an adhesive and structural support. They are made for repairing cracks and holes in bumpers from behind so I thought PERFECT!

The panel Is labeled PP right on the back of it. And it looks like a very smooth non-textured surface. I can almost guarantee what you were working with is ABS. It should be labeled right on the back or inside of your panel. 

I’m sorry to be so ignorant but how do people post pics on this website. Do you have to use third-party image hosting? 
I can probably just look it up on the forum. I will snap Pics when I get home tonight.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

TaylorMade said:


> Well, I’m installing a Morel MT23 1-1/4” tweet and is replacing what I believe to be smaller than 1” factory Mark Levinson tweeter so I had to hog-out a decent amount of the panel so it’s quite flimsy now.
> 
> That is why I was looking at those epoxies because they could double as an adhesive and structural support. They are made for repairing cracks and holes in bumpers from behind so I thought PERFECT!
> 
> ...


Click "Go Advanced" below, and then find and click the little paperclip icon above, and then either click "Choose File" (to find and select file(s) from your computer) or enter URL(s), and then click "Upload."


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Maybe mine are poly too?

__
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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

You might just want to use plastic weld for the facia like I suggested and follow up with a more permanent epoxy underneath so there's no doubts about bonding


how about this?:


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-2g-Plastics-Bonding-System-681925/100371829



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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

Alright here they are, you can see the tweeter panel and all the trim. You can also see the grill panel I spoke of earlier that keeps me from mounting the tweeter from behind. One plus, though, is I can aim my tweeters a little bit if I do away with the grill and just finish the panel. Keep in mind nothing is attached yet. 
So my plan I’ve come up with was to 3m epoxy the back for structural support and see how it sands to see if I can use that as filler or try a different epoxy as filler. I’m worried if rage gold or something like easy sand would stick to either the epoxy or PP plastic. 

I do have that loctite plastic bonding kit which should work fine for adhering the tweeter cup To sail panel. But what about filling gaps? And does body filler stick to these surfaces?

That’s crazy your panel also is labeled PP. I didn’t think any of those things would work because they specifically say not to use on PP or PE plastics. I wonder if an adhesion promoter would help with ANY type of glue or epoxy


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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Maybe mine are poly too?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That’s exactly what mine reads like. Crazy, and you feel it’s good and strong? I guess only time will tell.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I didn't cut out as much as you have 

I really do think you're worried a bit more than necessary. On YouTube the C.A.F. guy approaches sail panels just like you have. He uses CA glue to mount. Then he builds it up with rage gold

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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

Nice work, never seen plasti used before.


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## Mad Scientist (Feb 12, 2017)

I800C0LLECT said:


> Maybe mine are poly too?


Yes, it is polypropylene. This allows car manufacturers to use injection molding machines and produce complex shapes at high volume, low cost, and little waste which is ideal for body panels.


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## soundstreamer (Jun 2, 2015)

Im going to try this method with my 2 inch mids in my sail panel but I have a quick question. I was thinking of using some mdf for the baffle to hold my mid or would I better off using some spare HDPE board I have left over? I was worried that the plastic weld might not adhere to the wood.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I'm not sure it bonds with wood but it could secure it I guess. I wrapped it around my Aluminum rings.

Oh.. And look, it says it bonds with automotive trim. That's the answer about polypropylene it seems. Guess it does work









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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

I'm sorry if someone said this before me, but if you wet the mdf with a good polyester resin, like EASY Fab, (which isn't thick like most boat resins in Autozone, Advanced Auto ect...) it will soak in and seal up the porous mdf perfect. After that and a quick scuff, anything adheres to it. MDF is a terrible substrate by nature, once sealed up, it's great. If not an option, go with the HPDE IMO. Everything is looking great.


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## soundstreamer (Jun 2, 2015)

Thanks for the information. I think I will go with the hdpe board just to be safe.

I have another question and maybe it requires a separate thread but I will be using Morel ccwr254 mids and they do not have grills. What would be the best way to fabricate some that would still also be removable? Sorry for the questions but I'm new to trying to fabricate like this.


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

soundstreamer said:


> Thanks for the information. I think I will go with the hdpe board just to be safe.
> 
> I have another question and maybe it requires a separate thread but I will be using Morel ccwr254 mids and they do not have grills. What would be the best way to fabricate some that would still also be removable? Sorry for the questions but I'm new to trying to fabricate like this.


No need to be sorry, great question. I'd love to chime in and give you my $.02. Can you post a couple pics of them?


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

Also, what are you working with tool wise? Router, jig, table saw, ect...


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## soundstreamer (Jun 2, 2015)

Hope the pic of the drivers shows up ok. This will be going in the sail panels of a 2006 Ford Fusion. I dont have them built or anything yet just have my current SI M25 tweeters in there now.


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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

soundstreamer said:


> Im going to try this method with my 2 inch mids in my sail panel but I have a quick question. I was thinking of using some mdf for the baffle to hold my mid or would I better off using some spare HDPE board I have left over? I was worried that the plastic weld might not adhere to the wood.


There are plenty of epoxies that work with both woods and plastics. I don’t think you need anything special. Since you are just making rings, you May be better off with a different plastic like PVC, Acrylic, or ABS. The JB weld Plastiweld is not made for Polypropylene or Polyethylene. OP said it worked for him, though and his panel is PP. I bought a bunch of acrylic sheets on various lengths from a local plastic supply that were “scrap” for him. Bought a 2’x2’ sheet of 1/4, 1/2, & 3/4 from him for less than $80. One of those sheets could go for that retail. My point is there are ways to find cheaper plastics that may work better than HDPE. 
I wonder if it’s the combination of materials (glues, body filler, etc) used that might permit a better bond even though the adhesive is not made for that type of plastic. 
If you can find a different plastic you may have better results



I800C0LLECT said:


> I'm not sure it bonds with wood but it could secure it I guess. I wrapped it around my Aluminum rings.
> 
> Oh.. And look, it says it bonds with automotive trim. That's the answer about polypropylene it seems. Guess it does work
> 
> ...


It says in small print on the back of the package not made for PP or PE. I dont know, maybe it will work? I’m assuming by automotive trim they mean abs and PVC, maybe even polycarbonate.

The only inexpensive adhesive I’ve found that says it works with PP and PE is Loctite Plastic Adhesive System (2 parts) but it’s like super glue. Could work to mount but I don’t think it would work with filling gaps and such. 
Otherwise 3M and SEM make some epoxies that usually run around $50, sometimes need a proprietary applicator, and also an adhesion promoter for using with PP and PE.


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

So it sounds like I may have a reliability issue popping up. . crap

My only thought process was that I didn't need this to be structural in any way. I was fairly rough on it while sanding... Meaning holding it in one hand and torquing it. I'll report back when anything odd happens

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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

I800C0LLECT said:


> So it sounds like I may have a reliability issue popping up. ?. crap
> 
> My only thought process was that I didn't need this to be structural in any way. I was fairly rough on it while sanding... Meaning holding it in one hand and torquing it. I'll report back when anything odd happens
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


I may be wrong. This is what I have. I just got home from work and I was about to start researching the difference between what you have and what I have. 

Here’s a pic of what I have. 

I was thinking about it on the way home, even if they say “may not work on PP or PE” maybe you just get “less of a bond” which for yours or my application may be more than enough. 

I would put money on yours will last. I wouldnt sweat it.


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## TaylorMade (Feb 11, 2017)

Ok so to clear it up for present/future viewers of this thread, PlasticWeld is a putty epoxy and is not meant for HDPE, PE, or PP. it says it “will not adhere. Test adhesion first” 

But, from what OP was saying about twisting and grinding on his and he did not have a problem. My guess is you might not get as good of adhesion but will work fine for these light applications. 

JB Weld Plastic Bonder IS meant for thermoplastics such as PP and PE (although it does not actually say PP or PE on package) but is a typical two-part epoxy. Also sandable and can be used as a gap filler.


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## nyquistrate (Apr 17, 2011)

I800C0LLECT said:


> You might just want to use plastic weld for the facia like I suggested and follow up with a more permanent epoxy underneath so there's no doubts about bonding
> 
> 
> how about this?:
> ...


Thanks for that link, it looks useful for quick bonding of hard to clamp pieces. FYI, I wouldn't use the Loctite as a gap filler based on a response by the manufacturer. A Home Depot customer asked about gluing a door handle cover back together. I highlighted the concerning portion of the Loctite response in bold:



> There are a few of variables to consider in this situation when using the Loctite 2g Plastic Bonding System. 1. The size of the switch lock and the available bonding surface. 2. *The break must be a perfect fit for the glue to work. If there are any gaps or slivers missing the glue will not bond properly.* 3. Depending upon the nature of the break the glue may not be able to withstand the stress load the locking switch may be subjected to. If the repair does not hold then replacement of the switch is required. Unfortunately, there are no guarantees in this kind of situation.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

I800C0LLECT said:


> So it sounds like I may have a reliability issue popping up. . crap
> 
> My only thought process was that I didn't need this to be structural in any way. I was fairly rough on it while sanding... Meaning holding it in one hand and torquing it. I'll report back when anything odd happens
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk




How are these holding up? How did you how hold the tweeter in after you installed it?


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

So far they're fine. Just used hot glue since there wasn't a lot of room for the ring or bracket. But since I'm headed to Germany I'll likely be getting rid of these and the car :/

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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

I800C0LLECT said:


> So far they're fine. Just used hot glue since there wasn't a lot of room for the ring or bracket. But since I'm headed to Germany I'll likely be getting rid of these and the car :/
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk




I got you. How did you keep the tweeter in that ring? I see the chrome ring that comes with it has set screws but the one you used doesn't. 

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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

I know this is pretty old but the tweeters are still holding up just fine for fyi. No issues with the plastic weld holding to the polypro panel. They're still held in with hot glue. The panel is easily removed and I detach the wires if needed. I could attach the ring that screws onto the back if I really wanted to but I'm happy as is.

I will be repainting. The shiny black my son picked did fade just enough to look decent but they still stand out too much for me. 

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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

I800C0LLECT said:


> I know this is pretty old but the tweeters are still holding up just fine for fyi. No issues with the plastic weld holding to the polypro panel. They're still held in with hot glue. The panel is easily removed and I detach the wires if needed. I could attach the ring that screws onto the back if I really wanted to but I'm happy as is.
> 
> I will be repainting. The shiny black my son picked did fade just enough to look decent but they still stand out too much for me.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


I used it after seeing your post and mine are holding up great as well. Thank you for posting that product I use it on all sorts of plastic now


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## I800C0LLECT (Jan 26, 2009)

Redliner99 said:


> I used it after seeing your post and mine are holding up great as well. Thank you for posting that product I use it on all sorts of plastic now


Post pictures! I'm always stealing the good ideas 

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## Chris12 (Sep 20, 2018)

Good to hear that this is holding up.

I painted my traditionally made tweeter sail pods over one year ago with SEM primer/paint/clear and it truly does look OEM still.
(I know, worthless without pics  But it’s too cold to go outside and snap one. Maybe later


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## soundstreamer (Jun 2, 2015)

I used your idea as well and my sail panels have held up for about a year as well. I also did my A pillars for my 2" mids with the same method about 6 months ago and they still are holding up as well. Thank you so much for this great idea!


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