# CRD Mazda 6 Install



## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I just got my wife Mazda 6, and need to install the Pioneer AVIC-Z2. I don't like single din HU, and the kit for double din for this car is way expensive $350+. I decided to sacrifice the top dash. 

Modification consist on leaving the OEM radio in place and adding the AVIC-Z2 on the top, relocating the LCD display for A/C and outside temp to the roof over the rear view mirror. And the hardest part is making a factory look cover for the AVIC-Z2.

Here are some pics of the first step, measuring and analizing the sacrifice to the dash.










Complete System will be Pioneer for now.

Pioneer AVIC-Z2 Navigation HU
Pioneer 40wRMS x 4 Amp
Pioneer 380wRMS x 1 Amp
Pioneer 6-1/2 Components Front Doors
Pioneer 6-1/2 Components Rear Doors
Pioneer Premier Competition Series 10" Sub


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

You don't waste time do you? Those look like fun little cars....


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

niceguy said:


> You don't waste time do you? Those look like fun little cars....


Hehe this morning my wife told she wanted the CX-7 because is bigger for her and my daughter, and I had her car today and I really like it is a V6 but very powerfull. So we decided to trade cars, she got home at 10:17pm from work with my old CX-7 I took my tools and took the HU out to start measuring, and as you can see I'm already working on the mazda 6, but I live in a condo and working in the parking lot is not fun @ 11pm-12am.

Tomorrow I will play more with this setup 

And I will unistall all the sound system on the CX-7, I love installing factory HU just 2 plugs and 4 screws and you're ready to go . But what's not fun is installing AMP power cables and RCA to the back of the car, neither taking them out of the CX-7  Oh well


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## garvinzoom (Mar 23, 2008)

A Mazda family, nice. I love my 05 3 hatch.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I connected the HU to the factory speakers for now, WOW the sound is very good, but I have Components and Amps that I'm going to install later, for now I'm going to work on a custom cover for the radio. It was very easy to install. I just unwrapped a little of the factory black wrap around the wires and moved the HU wires between the AC ducts, I still have space to push the radio back. Viewing angle is perfect LOVE IT.

I still have the stock HU installed at the bottom without power, I have A/C controls but I don't have lights on the A/C controls, everything works except for the lights on the buttons. I will provide 12v to the factory HU so I can have lights on the A/C controls. 

I still don't know if I'm going to install the RED LCD on the roof , the only information it will provide me is OUTSIDE TEMP and CLOCK, I don't know if is worth the efford just for that.


Now my main time will be focused on how to cover the radio with a nice cover that match the top dash "Vinyl Leather". Iwon't be using the stock top cover, it's there for now to cover the radio and wires


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## danssoslow (Nov 28, 2006)

crd said:


> Now my main time will be focused on how to cover the radio with a nice cover that match the top dash "Vinyl Leather".


Have you thought about just painting the beauty panel the same flat black as the rest of the center dash? 
Personally, I think it will look stock/factory more so than a vinyl cover would; and if you could mimic the lighter colored trim that surrounds the rest of the center, that would be the nuts.

Either way, kudos to you; and can't wait to see this one done.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

danssoslow said:


> Have you thought about just painting the beauty panel the same flat black as the rest of the center dash?
> Personally, I think it will look stock/factory more so than a vinyl cover would; and if you could mimic the lighter colored trim that surrounds the rest of the center, that would be the nuts.
> 
> Either way, kudos to you; and can't wait to see this one done.



I might use textured flat black paint, there is a guy in another forum that used vinyl and it looked almost factory look, I will buy both and test. I need to buy some fiberglass and filler  to start


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I had a few hours to work on the car today, I removed the OEM tweeters and replaced them with the Pioneer tweeter from the 6.5" Components I will put on the car.

*Left Pioneer Soft Dome tweeter - Right OEM Tweeter*












*Used some hot glue to attach them to the OEM pods.*


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I also started to make the custom cover for the HU. I used a corrugated box , I made a cut on each line of the corrugated box, that way is flexible then added white water based glue the one that kids uses on schools to hold the form, I applied several layers of glue, after that I will use fiberglass to make it stronger.

I'm going to leave 1/4" between the radio and cover on the top, so the radio can breath, I have space on the bottom and back also.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Big update, new amps, new speakers, and new HU or CAR PC still undecided. But here is the new setup.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Why everything changes so fast? I have Car Audio equipment to have 3 cars Hook up, I can't spend no more until I sell some of the stuff. Hopefully this setup will last a few months and not weeks like the other ones 

This will be my new setup, I'm getting everything today and on monday 

Setup updated


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Got the amplifiers today, they look promissing. Good built quality and thin.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

i dont know man. you better set the gains on both the sub amps so each coil sees the exact same signal and voltage .... 


good luck i guess. looks like tons of work.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

req said:


> i dont know man. you better set the gains on both the sub amps so each coil sees the exact same signal and voltage ....
> 
> 
> good luck i guess. looks like tons of work.


Now that I received the amps today, I read they put 120wRMS x2 @ 2ohms. I might use (1) amp for the subwoofer but not the rockford, I will have to put the Premier Champion Series sub, wich handles 190wRMS each coil, this way I can also use the remote control from the amp and adjust the gain from the front seat when need it.

Setup updated


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Got the new RCA plugs, (24) for under $20. 
Now I need ot buy a good insulated cable for them.


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## zoomski (Feb 11, 2008)

nice to see another mazda getting upgraded... 
question, so how did u fit those tweeters in those stock pods. The stock tweet is .75 i believe, and that pionner looks like 1".
I see no cut marks or anything... mine didnt fit . had tu cut a 1" whole right thru and then glue them in.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

zoomski said:


> nice to see another mazda getting upgraded...
> question, so how did u fit those tweeters in those stock pods. The stock tweet is .75 i believe, and that pionner looks like 1".
> I see no cut marks or anything... mine didnt fit . had tu cut a 1" whole right thru and then glue them in.


Actually the pionner tweeter are 1" and they fit not perfectly but they fit, are you using pionners too?


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

req said:


> i dont know man. you better set the gains on both the sub amps so each coil sees the exact same signal and voltage ....
> 
> 
> good luck i guess. looks like tons of work.


I remember reading a paper on this from a subwoofer manufacturer. ID maybe... I don't recall who, but they said that having the power going into the coils really doesn't matter. 
The paper stated that the fields combine as long as they are in phase, so if you put 300 watts into one coil and 100 watts into the other coil, it will still be as loud as putting 200 watts into each coil, with no ill effects.

I'll admit that I don't understand everything about subs, but this agrees with my experiences and understanding of the theory.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

dogstar said:


> I remember reading a paper on this from a subwoofer manufacturer. ID maybe... I don't recall who, but they said that having the power going into the coils really doesn't matter.
> The paper stated that the fields combine as long as they are in phase, so if you put 300 watts into one coil and 100 watts into the other coil, it will still be as loud as putting 200 watts into each coil, with no ill effects.
> 
> I'll admit that I don't understand everything about subs, but this agrees with my experiences and understanding of the theory.


Yeah that's my understanding too. Wrong would be putting different phases on each coil.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Another bigger UPDATE, you guys are going to kill me, I talked to my wife to get back my Mazda CX-7 and return her the Mazda 6. I really miss my CX-7. So she gave up and now I'm having my CX-7 back , so that means that this whole install will be transfered to my CX-7.

Good news is that I can put a 9" sub in the front doors of the CX-7, so the 7" dayton RS180 will fit perfectly. 

Considere this post closed.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I'm working on Both cars now CX7 and the Mazda 6.

The mazda 6 will have the best goddies.

More updates during the week


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Just a little update, it's going to take a while to finish this mazda 6, because I will put 8" on this doors. I'm buying new door panels to make custom enclousures for 8"midbass, 4" midranges and tweeters.

After having 8" on my CX-7 , now with 6-3/4 its NOT the same never.

I bought this Pioneer Components to have something better than stock for now. Installation was very very very simple, no sound deadening or anything using the passive crossover it came with.






















I also have a new toy coming this week a Rockford 3sixty.2 controllable with my tablet pc or pocket pc  perfect for my OEM setup


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## bjayjr5679 (Nov 8, 2007)

Which pioneer comps are those?




CRD said:


> Just a little update, it's going to take a while to finish this mazda 6, because I will put 8" on this doors. I'm buying new door panels to make custom enclousures for 8"midbass, 4" midranges and tweeters.
> 
> After having 8" on my CX-7 , now with 6-3/4 its NOT the same never.
> 
> ...


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

bjayjr5679 said:


> Which pioneer comps are those?


Pioneer TS-A1702C

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=Pioneer+TS-A1702C&i=130TSA1702


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

ok, Im confused....too much going on!!!


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> ok, Im confused....too much going on!!!



THE first 2 pages are waste, everything changed now. The complete system will consist in:

Stock HU
3sixty.2 crossover/eq
8" dayton RS225 midbasses
4" dayton RS52A midranges
tweeter undecided yet witch brand
JL Audio A6450 6ch amp 70w x 6 (front stage)
JL Audio A1800 1ch amp 1000w x 1 (for 2 subs)


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

ok, that makes more sense. Did I read that your in a condo? where is there ANY space to work?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> ok, that makes more sense. Did I read that your in a condo? where is there ANY space to work?


I move out , and I'm living with my grandmother until my house is done in december or january. but I have a garage that I can use now. I'm going to hit the local junkers to see if I find a spare door panels to work with, because I will sell this car in the future  2-3 years from now and I need it to put it stock by then hehe


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

You'll be modifying the replacement door panels? Your doors are Mazda beige? Can you make an effort to molest the OEM grille material as little as possible, then send to me? I'm sure we can work out some suitable compensation.

Have you ever played with the Iridium tweeter? Very sweet sounding tweeter. A good match to your set, and easily kick panel installable in the 6....


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Whiterabbit said:


> You'll be modifying the replacement door panels? Your doors are Mazda beige? Can you make an effort to molest the OEM grille material as little as possible, then send to me? I'm sure we can work out some suitable compensation.
> 
> Have you ever played with the Iridium tweeter? Very sweet sounding tweeter. A good match to your set, and easily kick panel installable in the 6....


I'm kinda confuse, you want the stock grill area un molested?

About the tweeters, I still need to do research but I want them isomewhere in the top are not on the kick panels.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

they are a little deep for pillars, but no more deep than the lotus reference tweeter. I still recommend them.

The kinds of marks a door panel can get during fabrication for larger driver fitment in particular are scuff marks from the base of a jigsaw when cutting out the OEM grille and then some. Real easy to screw up the plastic.

I've been looking for some OEM plastic grille material that matches the mazda beige color. It's harder to get a closer match if you happen to be cutting up some mazda beige doors!

I'm just hoping to snag your waste material. Of course the edges will be rough-cut from the jigsaw, I'm hoping to get the material without a bunch of surface abuse from the jigsaw sled.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

Interesting how your doors (in post 22) look nothing like mine. I'm surprised they changed them so much for whatever year your 6 is. 2007-ish?


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## qtipextra (Aug 7, 2008)

Looking GOOD!


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Whiterabbit said:


> Interesting how your doors (in post 22) look nothing like mine. I'm surprised they changed them so much for whatever year your 6 is. 2007-ish?


Yeap mine is a 2007, I haven't found much information about other mazda 6 install, there are a few but nothing like I want to do yet.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

For the doors what I have plan is cutting the speaker grill area 1" outside the grill border, the cleanest cut posible. 

And fabricate a fiberglass enclousure for a 8"midbass and a 4" midrange, separate from the door panel, this enclousre will be covered with matching vinyl and bolted to the door. I won't blend the door panel and enclousure togheter. The door will consist in 3 parts (door, door panel, enlousure) I will fabricate a custom made grills for them.

It will look similar to this one from *elvisjer* but with the speaker covered.

if the 8" are to big i just go with the 7"s

PS: This might change if I can set up a midbass enclousure behind the radio close to the gas pedal , then I will use a 6"1/2 midrange in the stock door place and a tweeter


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

CRD said:


> PS: This might change if I can set up a midbass enclousure behind the radio close to the gas pedal , then I will use a 6"1/2 midrange in the stock door place and a tweeter


I could easily fit a single 8" in the under dash there. Have you seen the mazda tribute? CRAZY space in the under dash! it's nothing short of incredible. Same with the kickpanels. the 6 isnt bad though. If we could get away with a baffle alone (I think the steering column would get in the way), I bet we could get a single downfiring 8w7 under there. I'mnot saying that's sonically right, I'm just saying it might be possible. DEFINITELY possible 

I DEFINITELY want those grille cutouts from your doors though. Please let me know when you have 'em so we can work something out. You know. Assuming the midbass in the underdash doesnt work out and you use the doorpsace for midbass.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Whiterabbit said:


> I could easily fit a single 8" in the under dash there. Have you seen the mazda tribute? CRAZY space in the under dash! it's nothing short of incredible. Same with the kickpanels. the 6 isnt bad though. If we could get away with a baffle alone (I think the steering column would get in the way), I bet we could get a single downfiring 8w7 under there. I'mnot saying that's sonically right, I'm just saying it might be possible. DEFINITELY possible
> 
> I DEFINITELY want those grille cutouts from your doors though. Please let me know when you have 'em so we can work something out. You know. Assuming the midbass in the underdash doesnt work out and you use the doorpsace for midbass.



Consider the grills yours if I cut them, for $50 each ...............J/K If I cut them I will let you know, and you pay me shipping only.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

Awesome, CRD!




CRD said:


> Yeap mine is a 2007, I haven't found much information about other mazda 6 install, there are a few but nothing like I want to do yet.


and MAN if this isn't the truth 

I'm starting to see how "lonely" life is owning a car that isn't a civic. I can't imagine a less common car like the NSX guy on diyma.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

A little update of my TOMTOM gps installation.

I choosed the center vent because it's where I have better control of all the features without having to extend my hand on the windshield.

I didn't installed on my map storage compartment because I had the same problem reaching the tomtom to adjust settings etc.

I broke the suction cup bracket to bolt it to the inside of the air vent. The voice of the tomtom improved because of the vent chamber , no air is coming from that vent.

I'm also installing my 3sixty.2 but pics of that later tonight.

I couldn't do it without the "help" of my daughter, she lost me some dash screws


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Ok here is the install of the Rockford 3sixty.2

It took me 4 hours from start to finish (including setting in up)

I had to extend the speaker wires from the OEM HU to the 3sixty.2 

Now I have to search for the OEM top cover because I broke mine 










Perfect fit









Remote control flush mounted (it can be switch "push button" from master volume or subwoofer volume)


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Looks pretty cool.

What is the knob for the 360.2 for? Is it a volume knob?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Looks pretty cool.
> 
> What is the knob for the 360.2 for? Is it a volume knob?


Yes it works as a Main Volume control and if you push it it switch to control the volume for the subwoofer output.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

CRD said:


> Ok here is the install of the Rockford 3sixty.2
> 
> It took me 4 hours from start to finish (including setting in up)
> 
> ...


That 360s gonna be a hot little nugget sitting enclosed on the hottest part of the dash like that. Could cause problem over time. I'd say the _internals_ are going to be _well_ over the max temp spec on a hot day. Look like a good place though


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Also be careful with the nav unit being close to the AC vents, it will cause condensation inside the unit, possibly shorting it out.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Also be careful with the nav unit being close to the AC vents, it will cause condensation inside the unit, possibly shorting it out.



The 3sixty might get hot in a hot day , but the unit itself doesn't get hot while using it. And it's very rare for me to park under the sun, at least at work and home I have shades . I have seen worse installs than mine hehe.


The center vent is sealed, no air is coming behind the GPS, and the side vents air barelly hit the GPS. Time will tell, I have 3 years warranty on it for the just in case something you said happends  , so far it have been used 2 days with no problems


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Ok I bought some Pionner Components to have a better set of speakers in the meantime until I get my setup togheter.

But I decided to upgrade the "IN THE MEANTIME" speakers to some Polk/Momo components that I found in a good price.

But my final setup will consist in some Hybrid Audio speakers, for now I don't to much time to work on the car , but I can't drive without music 

Here are the crossover that I WON'T be using they're going to hit ebay and the for sale forum pretty soon. I'm going active.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Here is a little update on the custom tweeter pods I'm making for the Polk/Momo tweeters on my front stage.

I took the surface mount and blend it to the stock tweeter pods. I used bondo fiberglass/bondo compound LOVE IT.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

The new amp is here

Polk Audio PA1100.5
85wRMS x 4 @ 4omhs
400wRMS x 1 @ 2ohms










Some xxx rated pics and size comparison













I'm also installing some Hybrid Audio Clarus C51-2 on my front stage. I know, I know, what about the polk/momo's and the tweeter pods? Well I might sell the set plus the tweeter pods to mazda 6 owners if not they will hit ebay. I will be powering this Hybrid speakers active with 85wRMS to each tweeter and 85wRMS to each woofer.













As for the subs I will be using (2) Pionner Premiers 10" TS-W1007D2
The frequency response on this subs is *18hz-600hz*. Two months ago when I tested the Rockford T110D4 10" compared to the Premier, the premier had more PUNCH and now I know why. The rockford only goes 35-250 Hz












Now I just need time to install all this and design a nice amp rack and subwoofer encousure.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I bought some top end RCA's on a local shop, they guy told me this are the best for my application, he gave me a good price on them. I couldn't resist the price. The cable is thin and it doesn't creates a bump under the carpet of my car 



































































 Nah just kidding, I will kill myself if I use those RCA's hehe. Instead I bought some medium grade monster cable 6channel RCA's until I save for a better one.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Update:

Tweeter pod finish, but to bad I won't use them, aiming is just a litle better than stock, but not much.

PS: I'm going with Hybrid Audio speakers so mazda 6 owners if interested I will sell the component set for $150 shipped including the tweeter pods, they are unpowered PM me if interested.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

More updates, today I finally had time to work on the Subwoofer box, I'm using a MTX dual 10" box. I added a front cover to raise the front of the box to create an angle and fill the gaps on the sides, top, bottom.

I added speaker cloth around the edge with a little resin to create a nice step between box and front cover. I will finish them with a color matching carpet. 

I raised the box because on the front I will have the Polk amp flush mounted with a lexan on top and 2 brushless fans mantaining everything cooler. The amplifier already haves a fan output wich is perfect for this.


My working area, the Ryobi 18v tools works perfectly.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

you ever notice the spare tire well fits a full size spare, just a little too tall? Ever think about the space between a new required floor and the unibody when running a full size spare, and what can be fit in place? Including what fits inside of a full size spare?

Just some musings...


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Full size spares are nice if you have a commute that makes you prone to flats...It's been about 10 years since the last time I had a flat...so I welcome the donut. More cargo space and less weight.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

chuyler1 said:


> Full size spares are nice if you have a commute that makes you prone to flats...It's been about 10 years since the last time I had a flat...so I welcome the donut. More cargo space and less weight.


Same here, I think I have 3 different type of Road Hazard asistance, one from my mazda extended warranty, one from geico, one from a credit card that I have. I have no idea of the phone numbers to get the service but I have them . The donut works for me.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

More amp rack pictures

First floor






































Measurements for the second floor cut-out


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Floor have been raced 2" but it might need 3" , I need to pick the carpet and pass the power wire for the amp thru the firewall then back to the trunk. 











More pictures to come, I'm posting between breaks


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Your car is an automatic, so the most convenient place to pass any size power wire through is the clutch pedal plug. It's a white piece of plastic about 6 inches over from the brake on the firewall. It's the perfect spot to send power wire through. If you remove two bolts you can pull the plug out and drill whatever size hole you need. 

Dave


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

you ever call roadside assistance? They helped me back when I didnt have a spare. The second time I flatted, they said "we'll have a guy out there in a jiffy to install your spare."

I said what? that's all he's gonna do? (as if I expected him to come and wave a magic wand to make my problem go away)

had the spare on before the truck got there. Roadside is nice, but if you carry the spare, it's not needed for flats. Donut or otherwise.

it's a nice build you have going, but I gotta tell you, CRD, seriously. The OEM wheels have a 15.25" ID. Doesn't that give you...ideas?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> Your car is an automatic, so the most convenient place to pass any size power wire through is the clutch pedal plug. It's a white piece of plastic about 6 inches over from the brake on the firewall. It's the perfect spot to send power wire through. If you remove two bolts you can pull the plug out and drill whatever size hole you need.
> 
> Dave


Thanks for the tip, I will start with the power wires tomorrow thanks


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Whiterabbit said:


> it's a nice build you have going, but I gotta tell you, CRD, seriously. The OEM wheels have a 15.25" ID. Doesn't that give you...ideas?


What do you have in mind?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Last thing I made for today, finishing the carpet on the second floor. tomorrow I will take the details and finish the complete amp rack and sub box, IF DOESN'T RAIN


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

CRD said:


> Last thing I made for today, finishing the carpet on the second floor. tomorrow I will take the details and finish the complete amp rack and sub box, IF DOESN'T RAIN


meh, 30% chance tomorrow. It's been raining like the last week and a half! And it looks as though that may continue... damn hurricanes!

Install looks good so far!


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

here's a picture of what you're looking for, the bolts are on the inside. When you remove the battery, this is what you'll see without the wire running through it.


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

DaveRulz said:


> Your car is an automatic, so the most convenient place to pass any size power wire through is the clutch pedal plug. It's a white piece of plastic about 6 inches over from the brake on the firewall. It's the perfect spot to send power wire through. If you remove two bolts you can pull the plug out and drill whatever size hole you need.
> 
> Dave


Great tip! thanks


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Ok more updates on the amp rack, it's not raining but I forgot that my wife does work today and I'm baby sitting because the daycare is closed  so I might not finish today all.

Here is the re-carpeted 2nd floor, my daughters is helping me holding it 











I couldn't do it without my Ryobi stappler 











Here I made some double taped carpet strips to cover the edges of the cut out.




















Waaaaaaaaaalllaaaa No sign of carpet cuts 











PRODUCT FINISH


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## pwnt by pat (Mar 13, 2006)

the carpet looks awesome


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## xg3 (Sep 1, 2008)

how do u cut that hole for the amp so nicely? i want to do that! what tools did u use?


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Looking good. Carpet is by far my favorite DIY material. Sure vinyl looks good when done right...but to do it right is a pain and it doesn't hold up nearly as well as carpet.


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

xg3 said:


> how do u cut that hole for the amp so nicely? i want to do that! what tools did u use?


I guessing he used the tools in this link.. or go back one page in this thread

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showpost.php?p=538522&postcount=51

Not too difficult really... 

Sorry CRD.. back to normal programming! 

Mark


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

More pics, testing fitment, I still need to cut the carpet for the subwoofers, but I only have one subwoofer now, I'm waiting for the other one to come this week. Trunk is 75% done still need to cover some corners and put some deadening in the trunk, pass wires etc.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

xg3 said:


> how do u cut that hole for the amp so nicely? i want to do that! what tools did u use?


I traced the amplifier to the mdf and added 1/2" around the line and then cut it out.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

chuyler1 said:


> Looking good. Carpet is by far my favorite DIY material. Sure vinyl looks good when done right...but to do it right is a pain and it doesn't hold up nearly as well as carpet.



This is my first time working with carpet, and my first time working with MDF also, I love both. and trust me this will NOT be my first amp rack or sub box. I'm thinking in some corner subwoofer enclosures in Fiber Glass but that would be later on hehe


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## Mike Troll (Dec 14, 2006)

What part of Orlando are you in? I am near the airport. I would love to check this out in person, there is a huge meet of Mazda owners and all other makes/models on tuesday nights near waterford if you are interested. I think we have the same EXACT car from I could tell, except mine is an 03. 

Automatic, red fire, 6s, beige interior....kinda cool. I however am an SPL guy I think those would be the only difference in our cars.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Mike Troll said:


> What part of Orlando are you in? I am near the airport. I would love to check this out in person, there is a huge meet of Mazda owners and all other makes/models on tuesday nights near waterford if you are interested. I think we have the same EXACT car from I could tell, except mine is an 03.
> 
> Automatic, red fire, 6s, beige interior....kinda cool. I however am an SPL guy I think those would be the only difference in our cars.


I live close to Clarcona Rd / Pine Hills Rd, As soon I finish I'm going to start going to car shows and audio competitions, maybe we can meet someday.


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## Mike Troll (Dec 14, 2006)

Thats cool. I lived in Ocoee for a fairly long time. 

If you want to come out on a tuesday night let me know. Most of us that meet up on tuesdays post on www.streetunitforum.com cool place with lots of knowledge and parts if you want to make your 6 a little faster.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Got the subwoofers installed, wired @ 2ohm they will have 400wRMS to play with

Items missing coming this week

Alpine IVA-D310
Alpine PXA-H701
Alpine RUX-C701


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## slvrtsunami (Apr 18, 2008)

were you going to 'finish' the sides of the amp rack? I didn't know if that was access to other storage, jacks, amp fan inlet, cubby hole for gremlins or what....


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

slvrtsunami said:


> were you going to 'finish' the sides of the amp rack? I didn't know if that was access to other storage, jacks, amp fan inlet, cubby hole for gremlins or what....


In one side I will install the H701 and in the other side I will install a capacitor, the jack will be relocated


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## doitor (Aug 16, 2007)

It's looking VERY good, CRD.

Jorge.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

doitor said:


> It's looking VERY good, CRD.
> 
> Jorge.


Thanks

I'm lovin the DIY


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## FrankstonCarAudio (Feb 2, 2008)

It's all coming along really well, CRD.
Good to see something installed and nearly finished before you change your mind again!  j/k
Floor looks great.. looking forward to the updates

Mark


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

FrankstonCarAudio said:


> It's all coming along really well, CRD.
> Good to see something installed and nearly finished before you change your mind again!  j/k
> Floor looks great.. looking forward to the updates
> 
> Mark


So far my system will consist on this:

Alpine IVA-D310 (Head Unit)
Alpine PXA-H701 (No introduction need it)
Alpine RUX-C701 (More for Analyzer Display)
Polk/Momo MMC6500 6.5" Components (Front Stage)
Pioneer Premier TSW1007D2 (Subwoofers)
Polk Audio PA1100.5 (Main amp)


Future Changes:

Polk Audio Subwoofers
Hybrid Audio 3-way front stage

NO MORE CHANGES HEHE


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

where is the c701 gonna go?

can I make a suggestion?

do you have the sunglasses pocket overhead? 

Or even better, does your mazda have a moonroof? that blank space in front of the overhead between the overhead and moonroof? That seems like SUCH a perfect place to put a DIN sized faceplate, as long as it were less than .75 inches thick and flush mountable (like those flush mount cups for CD changer controllers)

it would be an orphan up there, so nearly anything would look OK. Even an alpine faceplate!


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Whiterabbit said:


> where is the c701 gonna go?
> 
> can I make a suggestion?
> 
> ...




Yeah that was a place I was thing on putting the C701 but I have to wait until gets here to see if it will difficult to controlled from there.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

More updates


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

you ever take out that fuse box? It looks like two fuses are missing in the grid of 1/2"x1/2" fuses. Do you know what's inside that box? ease of utilizing those spaces?


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Today I received the H701 but without the Power Cable  working on that. This will be installed with fiber optic cable from the HU to the H701 and mounted on the right side of the trunk flush mounted just like the amp  But during next weekend


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## Monte B. (Aug 12, 2008)

If you need a quick fix on the power cable for the H701, just get a 6 pin plug from a computer power supply (it will have 3 yellow and 3 black wires). It will plug into the 701 brain. Let me know and I'll tell you what pins do what functions.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Monte B. said:


> If you need a quick fix on the power cable for the H701, just get a 6 pin plug from a computer power supply (it will have 3 yellow and 3 black wires). It will plug into the 701 brain. Let me know and I'll tell you what pins do what functions.



Thanks for the tip, I do have one power supply laying around but it only haves the big main connector and a 4pin connetors, there is no 6 pin conector.


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## arrivalanche (Jun 27, 2008)

your not using the factory fuse for your amps fuse are you? if so, you stand to screw yourself big time if you blow that one. one loud bass note and your whole car will shut off.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

arrivalanche said:


> your not using the factory fuse for your amps fuse are you? if so, you stand to screw yourself big time if you blow that one. one loud bass note and your whole car will shut off.


No, on the left side of the sub box, I will have a Distro and fuse box, I will also have a capacitor for the amp. The amp on the picture have the power wire connected to it but not to the battery yet, between the battery and amp I will have the 100amp fuse close to the battery and another fuse close to the amp/ capacitor, I can reach to the fuse and distro block from the rear seat easily. I'm just waiting for all the parts to arrive to finished. the only visible things are going to be the Capacitor, Amp, H701, and subs.


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

Monte B. said:


> If you need a quick fix on the power cable for the H701, just get a 6 pin plug from a computer power supply (it will have 3 yellow and 3 black wires). It will plug into the 701 brain. Let me know and I'll tell you what pins do what functions.



I'd like to know which pins do what job in the plug, as I've got a grotty old plug on mine and it's been chewed up terribly.


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## Monte B. (Aug 12, 2008)

Okay..with the plug actually plugged in and the wires coming out toward you. Counting from left to right, pins 1, 2, 3 across the top and 4, 5, 6 along the bottom:
1 - Guide Control - for navigation
2 - Remote Output - to amps
3 - empty 
4 - +12v constant
5 - Ground
6 - Remote Input - from headunit or ignition if running stand-alone


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## khanhfat (Feb 4, 2008)

drill hole in ur board and run wire from there. will b cleaner


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

khanhfat said:


> drill hole in ur board and run wire from there. will b cleaner


If I do that I will have to raise the first floor so the wires can pass underneath, right now the first floor is seating flush with the trunk floor.

I will wrap those wires coming in/out of the amp and the second floor will cover all the wires


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Tomorrow is going to be a busy day, I received all my alpine equipment and for sure it won't rain so I might to try to finish all the wiring by tomorrow

I'm adding a new set of speakers from Carbridge SoundWorks from my creative labs PC speakers. 

Here are a few pictures, more info tomorrow


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

I started to glaze the single din custom bezel for the IVA-D310, I had to cut and modify the map storage cover I inserted the metal cage inside and wraped the outside with speaker cloth and add a few layers of resin. Tomorrow a little sanding and flat textured paint.


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## jdc753 (Nov 14, 2007)

just read through your entire install earlier today and looks great, nice work for sure, and a lot of it at that. Was kinda hoping you would go the carputer route as that is what I am working on but seems you got things working out very nicely. 

That fiberglass piece is looking good, should be very nice sitting in the dash too, was exactly what I was thinking when I first saw you putting the double din in the map pocket. Should turn out great when you get it finished up.


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## Mike Troll (Dec 14, 2006)

Maybe you already answered this but why exactly did you decide not to buy the dash kit?


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## dogstar (Jan 31, 2007)

Monte B. said:


> Okay..with the plug actually plugged in and the wires coming out toward you. Counting from left to right, pins 1, 2, 3 across the top and 4, 5, 6 along the bottom:
> 1 - Guide Control - for navigation
> 2 - Remote Output - to amps
> 3 - empty
> ...


Thanks for the info, the wires from my plug were cut right at the base of the plug on 1 and 2 and 6 was chopped down to a little nub.
Time to hit the electronics store and pick up another one


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Mike Troll said:


> Maybe you already answered this but why exactly did you decide not to buy the dash kit?


Well my Mazda 6s is a 2007 the radio / bezel on each side is painted SILVER, the kit is not painted on the sides it's all black. 

Things I didn't like about the kit:

1) Black color is different
2) Doesn't have the sides painted in silver
3) Single Din looks cheap (to much space un-used)
4) more than anything , doesn't have the silver trim on the sides (not oem look for me)

ALSO , the Stock head unit will be 100% functional, I will amplify the stock HU with the IVA-D310 ( This is just for fun)

Here is the comparison :


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## Mike Troll (Dec 14, 2006)

You can paint the dash kit to match. I just think the D310 will look goofy when its folded out. I could be wrong, I guess I will wait to see it.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Mike Troll said:


> You can paint the dash kit to match. I just think the D310 will look goofy when its folded out. I could be wrong, I guess I will wait to see it.


The dash kit is completed flush at the ends, the OEM haves a grove that separates the silver from the black. The aftermarket looks cheap IMO.

Also I have better control of the HU in the map storage position than in the stock position, let's see how it looks when finish.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

after a few coats of paint and sanding the Custom Single Din bezel is finish 

I still need to put the radio ring on the outside but I need to modified a little.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

*LOOK MOM.............. HOME MADE BOMBS* 











Hehe just kinding this is the fastest way to wrap this for my polk tweeters facing up to the dash, I was going to use a midrange and the tweeter but, decided to wait for the Hybrids when I get more $.


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

IVA-D310 is in place ready for action




















Optical Cable is ready to meet the H701


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

After driving around I decided to sell the D310 and save for a double din Alpine for my OEM radio location using a custom kit, The flip up LCD is to tall on that location it really blocks my visibility wich I don't like, and I know for sure I will get pull over for this, Just having a windshiled GPS in the center is good for a ticket, this LCD blocks more than that.

For now I will be using the RUX-C701 on that place. No other option to wait until I get a double din HU and customize my dash for it, until then I will be using the stock HU with a scoche line output converter connected to the H701


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Finally some REAL sound, I hook up my stock HU to a line output and then to my H701, this is to resolve until I get funds for a nice HU, but the sound is really amazing for been a stock HU amplified, the H701/C701 volume is set to 25, and I then control the main volume from my stock HU.

I was able to check my stock HU signal when I had the 3sixty hook up and I have a flat signal on my stock HU until volume 25 after that the treeble and bass starts to lower. So I setup my H701 to get full output to the amps at my stock HU volume been at 25, if I need more volume without loosing SQ I just raise the H701 volume.

*Things that I love about this setup*
Great Loud and Clear sound
In-Dash 6CD changer
Steering Wheel Controls
VERY SLEEPER

*Things that I hate about this setup*
No MP3 support
Ni Ipod input unless I buy the expensive adapter
No optical output
No Navigation or LCD 

Before I decide what HU to get, I need to buy a good sound deadening and ensolite and cover everything roof too. The bass is to much.

SCOSCHE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER , Pretty Good for onlu $17 at walmart


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Ok I finally had the chance to redo my HU bezel and cover it with speaker grill, looks better than before because it matchs the tweeters finish that are also coverred with the same material.

I also added a accurate 12v Meter, oh hi bass notes voltage drops from 14.3v to 13.2v, my lights doesn't dim but I will add the cap that I have just for the extra juice.


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## UCF52 (Nov 20, 2007)

look good man.


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## backotruck (Jul 18, 2008)

Yea, I agree. That's a great looking ride.


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## Superstretch18 (Dec 10, 2007)

I was wondering where you went man! Too bad you gave the CX-7 to your wife, but you've got a great set-up going in the 6. Nicely done!


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## CRD (Apr 23, 2008)

Reviving the built, I bought a Ranger and I'm selling it, now I'm using the Mazda 6 for me, no more trades to my wife since I bought her a 2012 Mazda 5 so hopefully I can finish a good system now.

This is what I'm looking for, either a china radio like this or make one custom and hardwire the A/C controls and remove the OEM radio.










Have anyone bypassed the AC controls somehow? leavingthe stock bezel but without the radio?


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