# 2009 Ram simpleish budget system



## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Ive been lurking here for a while, I guess I should post something.

I am Starting the build on my Ram the progress will start slow as I am working between home projects. I will be taking the easy road and utilizing the factory locations for this build.

Enjoy









Source: New IPad
Processing: Zapco DSP-6SLII
Amplification: Zapco
Speakers: H-Audio Soul
Sub: JL Audio 10w3v3

Not much progress yet, just getting the IPad mocked up. My last 2 cars have all been P.C. based so I wanted to go the easy route this time around.









I will hopefully get some more up later this week.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Nice choice of gear:thumbsup:.....good luck with your build


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## KyleMDunn (Jan 27, 2009)

Looking forward to see how this turns out. More info on the Ram??


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Hey is this a quad cab? And if it is where did you find a stealthbox with a 12" sub or did you modify it for a 12. The only ones listed on the JL site are 10w3s. Thanks.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks guys, I got a lot done around the house today, I have to do some trim work so I should really get cracking next week hopefully. 

DOH! Sub is a 10W3V3, not quite sure what I was thinking. Yes install will be in a quad cab.

At the moment the ram is stock, I do however have a Varram intake, and a Diablo Intune. Trying to decide on exhaust and headders.


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Hey I have '09 Sport Quad and just getting started on mine. Looking forward to seeing your iPad integration.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

Are you taking digital out of the iPad dock connector? I'm currently running an iPad by Bluetooth through the factory HU, but really want to try getting a Toslink output to send to my Bit Ten D.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

metanium said:


> Are you taking digital out of the iPad dock connector? I'm currently running an iPad by Bluetooth through the factory HU, but really want to try getting a Toslink output to send to my Bit Ten D.


I havent decided if I will run digital or analog but if you want digital then the Pure I-20 is the way to go.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Small update:

Dis-assembly of the dash bezel. The only reason I decided to take apart the bezel was to keep the mounting points for the AC controls. The mounting points are right the edge where the silver trim meets the black, I didn't want to risk damage. 

For those that do not know the oval in the middle is for the HVAC controls, the top rectangle is for the the traction control, hazards and towing button. The lowest rectangle is fro seat heaters and steering wheel heater. My sport does not use the lower provision so I plan to move the traction control switch bank to that location and then lower the HVAC and TC switch bank lower on the bezel.

Hope that makes sense, here is the dis-assembly really nothing exciting.

Front









Rear









Front dis-assembled









Thats all for now!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

so the dsp6's optical input works with the ipad's optical output options?  What would act as volume control?


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I am still exploring the optical side, I have the Pure I-20 dock on order that will give toslink out. 

Not sure about previous gen Ipads, the 3rd gen has gestures to be used on screen for volume. The Ipads volume control doesn't give alot of volume control, its like 12 steps from min to max. I have also thought about mounting the DRC and useing that as volume control, though I really dont like the DRC for volume duties. My other option was to run analogue into the DSP6 and using a SLB-U for volume duties. Currently the Ipad is using the onboard dac ran into the aux of the factory headunit using the steering wheel controls for volume.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

You won't be able to use the iPad's volume control running digital out. If you use the iPad's dock connector -> Pure I-20 -> external DAC, you'll still require some type of volume control downstream, i.e DRC.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Looking good! Liking the direction you are going in here. Of course I am a bit partial to iPads and Rams


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

chithead said:


> Looking good! Liking the direction you are going in here. Of course I am a bit partial to iPads and Rams


Thanks! iPads and Rams go together like PB&J!

Today I did the part I was dreading, the point of no return. I cut the bezel up. It is currently not real pretty but once everything gets molded back together I believe all will be good.

First I cut the middle section out.









I trimmed down the HVAC section and the switch bank section. Originally I was going to put the HVAC above the switch bank, but I decided to try and keep it oem-ish.









I had to do a mock up in the truck to make sure the Ipad will fit. It isnt square in the opening but this is where it will be, and it brings vision to reality.









Well that's all today. Probably won't get any thing done tomorrow as I need to re-assemble my dryer so the wife can do some laundry.

Thanks for looking.


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## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

audiovibe said:


> Thanks! iPads and Rams go together like PB&J!


I would say... It looks like it was there from the beginning. Nice work!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

DRTHJTA said:


> I would say... It looks like it was there from the beginning. Nice work!


Thanks, I cant wait to finish it up!


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## DeanE10 (Apr 19, 2011)

Love Ram Builds  I thought about going the iPad route as well, I might explore this further after seeing yours...


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Small update.

I got the HVAC control, switch bank, and the frame for the iPad done. The iPad frame was glued into place from the front, then back. Epoxy was used around the perimeters on the inside. The bigger holes around the frame were back filled with ABS, the holes will also be filled with ABS. I still have a couple spots to fill before I can bodu work, sand and paint though.

Enjoy.










Frame 









Bezel with HVAC and switches mounted.









Thanks for looking, and as always feedback is appreciated.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm digging it!


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## getonerd (Jul 24, 2007)

Nice so far 
Tune in


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks for the compliments.

Not much done today, I got all the gaps filled an a guide coat sprayed. I have a few places to touch up. Should be ready for primer next week.










Thanks Aron


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## ousooner2 (Jan 6, 2011)

Very cool. Would love to have an Ipad3 in my car!! 

Sub'd


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

ousooner2 said:


> Very cool. Would love to have an Ipad3 in my car!!
> 
> Sub'd


Thanks, and where theirs a sawzall theirs a way:surprised:

I really havent made much progress lately as I didnt like the little filler pieces I made for the gaps on the side. I ordered an airless plastic welder, so I will be redoing all the seams. On the up side I did get the Pure I-20 in yesterday and today came my 90 degree connector and extension cable from Sound Man (thanks to Doug and the guys for the uber fast shipping) I hooked the I-20 up and the difference is astonishing, even running analogue into the factory headunits aux input.

I have spent the week sorting out wires so I know what I have and what I still need. All Second Skin deadening products, Zapco volume control, techflex and heat shrink, adn a 90 amp power supply has been ordered. Now I just need to finish the dash and move on the the audio install!


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## vwjmkv (Apr 23, 2011)

curiosu to see where this goes... 

CC


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## stuckinok (Jul 22, 2008)

Looking great. I love iPad builds.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Some people on other forum were curious how the iPad worked without the use of the home button, so I posted a quick video on Youtube. Its my first video and far from rehearsed, so please bare with me.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

By now everyone is probably getting tired of my small updates of the same thing, but I am almost done with the dash. I got all the problem areas grooved and plastic welded. I used a fine mesh to reinforce the joints this time so I am pretty confidant I will have no cracking issues this time around.

Here are a couple more pics. I had thought I took a pic with the mesh on the bezel but I could not find it.

Here I put a small channel in all the seams that were giving me issues.









Next I cut and melted wire mesh into the bezel to reinforce it, After the mesh was melted in I melted and forced ABS plastic into the grove through the mesh while melting into the bezel plastic. 









Tomorrow I should get the piece sanded and hopefully primed


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

The iPad is almost done, I got the bezel sanded and primed, all that is left is to sand and paint it flat black to match the factory theme.


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Nice work. Can't wait to see the final product.


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## Cooter69 (Dec 18, 2011)

That is awesome using the iPad!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

myhikingboots said:


> Nice work. Can't wait to see the final product.





Cooter69 said:


> That is awesome using the iPad!


Thanks guys!

Today was a good day, I finished the dash bezel for the most part. It is painted and installed, but I decided I will be changing it up. I ordered some 3m Di-noc carbon fiber to wrap the bezel in. I probably will not wrap it for a couple weeks so how it is in the pics is how it will stay for a while.

My Second skin order also came in today So I can start to deaden the truck to prepare it for the audio.

Enough of the babble here is the finished bezel


























Thanks for looking
Aron


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Kachinga! EXCELLENT work!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

chithead said:


> Kachinga! EXCELLENT work!


Thank you! I am still not looking forward to deadening the doors though!

I am so excited; a couple days ago there was an un-teathered jailbreak made available for ios 5.1.1. This also includes the iPad 3rd generation. I have been playing around with various tweeks. I will soon have the iPad wake up with the truck, and sleep when the truck is turned off without the use of gestures. Also I will have the screen dim as opposed to locking as without the home key I had to have the screen stay lit at all times because I was unable to unlock. 

now I am just hoping to start the audio build next week!!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got some deadening done today, but it is a little sloppy in the compounding curves. I am hoping to get the back wall and rear tub done tomorrow.











































































I also decided to wrap the bezel with 3M di-noc carbon vinyl.


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## epatmd (Mar 4, 2010)

Agree very nice!


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## DeanE10 (Apr 19, 2011)

Love the Di-NOC, nice touch. Might have to borrow that idea for mine too


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Have you done the doors yet? Would love some detailed shots of what you do. Thx!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks Dean,

no I haven't done the doors yet, I plan to keep the equipment install pretty generic and use factory locations though. The doors will be deadened after I get the floor done and interior back in.


BTW it is killing me not driving the truck, its been tore down a week now.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got a little more done yesterday, I deadened the rear tub, and I got the Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro cut, just need to glue it down.


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## DeanE10 (Apr 19, 2011)

How much of the Lux Liner did you use? I did mine using of the eDead products and love how it turned out... Will be interesting to hear your thoughts on how well it performs


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

DeanE10 said:


> How much of the Lux Liner did you use? I did mine using of the eDead products and love how it turned out... Will be interesting to hear your thoughts on how well it performs


I used 3 sheets of LLP on the floor. I will also use one sheet on the rear wall. The rear tubs will just get some Overkill pro and will be covered with a baffle to mount the amplifiers.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Today I got the wire runs done on the floor, the Zapco SLB-U, and the Pure I-20 mounted. The carpet and center console are back in the truck now. The carpet was a bear to re-fit!

All wiring was secured every 6" using cable ties and self adhesive mounting tabs, all cable intersections are at 90 degrees.

Power wire through the firewall









Power wire is ran along the door sill then snakes to the center of the floor, speaker wire for the mid and full range driver are tech flexed together and split in the kick panel.









Power wire and speaker wire ran through the rear tub using grommets.









Symbilink input and passenger side speaker run. the Symbilink runs from the center console to the passenger side door sill. Right side speaker leads run along the transmission hump.









Like the power wire on the left side the Symbilink cable snakes to the center of the floor and enters the tub along with the right side speaker leads.









The Zapco SLB-U and the Pure I-20 were mounted at the base of the center console bracket. I used a piece of ABS plastic to mount the SLB-U to the bracket using Machined screws and nylon lock nuts. I am in the process of finding a mounting solution for the I-20










Thats all for now, hoping to finish the rear wall tomorrow.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Very nice work as always


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## DeanE10 (Apr 19, 2011)

audiovibe said:


> The carpet was a bear to re-fit!


LOL! Yes it was a pain in the butt for me too! What was worse was the headliner for me though... Glad to see I wasn't the only one that struggled a little bit


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## jtaudioacc (Apr 6, 2010)

How's the charging with the i20, I hear it's bad with the new iPad? Is that true?


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

chithead said:


> Very nice work as always


Thank you



DeanE10 said:


> LOL! Yes it was a pain in the butt for me too! What was worse was the headliner for me though... Glad to see I wasn't the only one that struggled a little bit


Dont tell me that, Im not looking forward to the headliner as it is. My headliner probably won't be done for a while though.



jtaudioacc said:


> How's the charging with the i20, I hear it's bad with the new iPad? Is that true?


Yes and no; The I-20 will only give a trickle charge to the iPad, and the iPad still chews through the battery. I did find a half ass fix for this though. I jailbroke the iPad when absinthe was released and messed around with some tweaks. I have it set so the screen will auto dim from my brightness setting to the lowest brightness setting without locking. Now when the screen dims the battery does get a positive charge.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got the rear wall, lower B and C pillars, and inside of the drivers door, and interior put back in today.

Rear wall deadened









Rear wall with Luxury Liner Pro. I ran out of LLP so I filled 6" in the center with Overkill Pro









I laid Overkill in the well









I really didn't want to do the door but since I go the interior back in I decided it was a good time to start.

Start off with a layer of Damplifier Pro.









Followed up with some Overkill









I ran Overkill around the perimeter of the carriage assembly to act as a gasket and isolate the door from the carriage.









I thought I had some pics of the pillars but I must have forgotten to take any. Tomorrow I will hopefully get to the passenger door and get the door panels and carriage assembly finished up.

Also it seems some of my pictures are vanishing!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Today I got the passenger door and both front door panels deadened and some Overkill pro glued on. I just need to do the inner skins and get the 6.5" souls installed.

I didn't get a chance to take any pics today


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got a chance to work on the truck again today, so I decided to make the amp rack. I got the amps and fuse block situated so now I just need to wire it up. I don't think I have ever pulled the seats out of a vehicle so much to test fit stuff. My original plan was to raise the seats and mount the 2 360.4s under the drivers side rear, but to the the seat high enough to clear the amp and a beauty board I would have had to raise the seat 1".

All amps are secured with 8-32 stainless machined screws with a lock washers and a washer, they get screwed into Tee-nuts on the back side of the board.

























Put some carpet on it.

















I bent some 1-1/2"x1/8" aluminum to secure the rack to the factory mounts on top, then painted them black. I used friction to hold the bottom in place. The top is held by the factory tether bolt and the bottom of the bracket is secured with 1/4-20 x 5/8" Stainless button head cap screws.









Thanks for looking!


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Still my favorite amps thus far. Excellent choice!


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## DeanE10 (Apr 19, 2011)

The seat belt brace will hold the bottom of that amp rack just perfectly. Looking good man!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

chithead said:


> Still my favorite amps thus far. Excellent choice!


Thanks! I almost pulled the trigger on a JL 900/5, but I was already a couple hundred over my $1000 budget. I do love the looks and performance of the Ref amps, so I decided to use these instead of leaving them in the basement. 




DeanE10 said:


> The seat belt brace will hold the bottom of that amp rack just perfectly. Looking good man!


I didn't even think about that, It is pretty secure now and I don't think it will move once the seat is in.

I do need to hurry and finish though as I think the wife is getting tired of me picking up her car when I get off work to pick up or boy from day care

Thanks for looking I am hoping to have the rack wired up by the end of the weekend.


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## Dieselhed (Jan 1, 2011)

Looking good. I've already did the exact same thing with a combo of Damplifier and SDS mass loaded vinyl and ensolite. Waiting on some other gear to get here to dive in. Truck is a 2011 Ram 2500.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Looking great sir. Not so budget I have to say.  As a ton of great and hard work is going into this install.

You have a PM


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got some of the floor done today, I still need to center the Dsp-6, cut a board for the passenger side and secure the boards. I made a couple brackets from some aluminum stock that will secure the floor to the amp wall. I have an idea to secure the front of the processors beauty board using some more aluminum stock. I am hoping next weekend I can get some sound going. 

Just a rough test fit with the DSP-6 being held up with 2x4s









The bottom of the board with the DSP-6 carrier bolted up









The aluminum I used to make mounting tabs.









The DSP-6 is mounted I do need to center it though. The light you see at the front of the processor is light not the horrible carpeting job I did.









Here is the progress so far from the passenger rear door. I will be re carpeting the entire bottom panel as I original tried to cut some corners using scraps and I didn't have enough to finish the little mid wall in the middle of the board.


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

I got the speakers installed over the weekend and I decided to change the amp rack. I decided to flip the amplifiers and move the fuse block to the floor, I like the look alot more this way not that it matters because you cant see the amps. I also managed to dent both soul X2's when installing, I was tightening them down and the ratchet slipped. 

Here are a few pics

New floor.
DSP-6 wired up

















The two aluminum brackets on the bottom secure the floor to the rear wall, and when the rear wall gets bolted down the floor is secure

New rear wall









































I used 1/4" HDPE to make the speaker baffles.









2" in factory location









6.5" in factory door location









After the pics I tidied up the wires under the amps and secured them with screws and Zip ties. Today I got the rear seats reinstalled and I will say that they were a PAIN IN THE ASS with the floor raised 1/2" and the amps mounted so low.
The Souls sound fantastic, after time alignment I feel they will not need much eq'ing at all, they sound great!! very snappy and plenty bright on top with the x-overs only set.

Thanks for looking.


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## Dieselhed (Jan 1, 2011)

Where did you ground your amps to? I'm right in the middle of the exact same thing and borrowed your idea for the amp rack. Great pics.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Soo-freaking-perb!!! That is amazing what you've accomplished with this build. GREAT choice of equipment, super classy attention to detail, and just an all around exceptional install.


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## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Looks great sir. 

One recommendation. The little open area around the X2 mounting area, close it off to make sure no back waves come forward.

Great Job sir!


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## wdemetrius1 (Aug 16, 2007)

Great Build!!!


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks everyone!!

Dieselhed, I took the ground all the way to the frame, I sanded some paint down and used a stinger grounding block. I then re-primed the section. there is a factory grommet in the rear well that is perfect size for a 0GA pro grommet if anyone was interested. I will snap a pic this weekend. I also mounted an auxiliary switch to turn the system on without the key using a separate relay fro iPad and remote turn-on so power is not back fed into the truck. I also wired up some 4ga to power the system via a 90amp Iota power supply. 


Thanks for the tip Mark! I think I am going to toss up some deadener and Damplifier to isolate the speaker baffle from the dash.

I really cant wait to get this thing tuned.


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## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

audiovibe said:


> ...I also managed to dent both soul X2's when installing, I was tightening them down and the ratchet slipped.
> .


One of my buddy's dented the dust cap on my X2 also. I took a small piece of deadener, very gently stick it to the dented area and pull out quick. Do that a couple of times and it popped right out. 

Before


After


Amazing work, Really nice job with that iPad. How are you powering the Pure i-20? Just a small power inverter?


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

audiovibe said:


> Put some carpet on it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## audiovibe (Nov 16, 2007)

Thanks for the deadener tip and compliments stockley! I never even thought of that. I picked up an adjustable voltage plug from Radio Shack to give the I-20 voltage. I removed the 12v socket from the console so I had a place to mount the volume control, I remounted the socket under the center console to plug the I-20 in.

myhikingboots: Yes the notches were needed to have clearance for the seat brackets. In the last pic you can kind of see them but they are very dim, I really should have used my camera for pics othen then my iPhone. The vents were only slightly covered. Originally I used damp pro and covered the whole rear wall including the vents. The amp rac did not fit with the Damp Pro over the vents so I removed the damp pro from the vents. on the rear of the amp rack I placed damplifier to cover just the face ov the vents leaving the sides still open. 

When the vents were sealed I did have some adverse effects on hot days. When the temp was 90+ outside pressure would build up in the cabin and I would get a whistle when I entered the truck and shut the door. The whistle would last until the cabin temp equalized with the outside temp or the windows were rolled down. With just the faces covered I haven't noticed and adverse effects.


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## Quicksilver337 (Apr 2, 2013)

audiovibe, I'm working on my 2012 Ram 1500 QC. I did the Luxury Liner Pro on the back deck like you did. I saw your idea of putting that amp rack and was wondering what's the thickness on the mdf you used and did you have any issues with the rear seats? 

Thanks..


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## Doc69 (Sep 6, 2013)

Quicksilver337 said:


> audiovibe, I'm working on my 2012 Ram 1500 QC. I did the Luxury Liner Pro on the back deck like you did. I saw your idea of putting that amp rack and was wondering what's the thickness on the mdf you used and did you have any issues with the rear seats?
> 
> Thanks..


Yes I am wondering this as well...as I am fixing to do the same thing in my Ram 1500 as well!! This is good stuff!! Thanks for posting. Also would love to hear how your system sounded once you had it tuned!!


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