# Opel Astra by LB audio - Pioneer/JBL//PPI/Genesis



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

One of my older installs back from 2007...I think
Install meets all EMMA SQ requests, it was also ment as a JBL demo at one of Slovenian EMMA finals

A few pices of equipment was replaced during install...the last combo is>
Pioneer P9 + DEQ processor (before Alpine 9860 + 701)
Amps are from Genesis - Four Channel and Dual mono extreme for front end and PPI PC 2.1400.2 for sub-bass
Drivers - JBL C 660 GTI, HAT L4, JBL W12 GTI MK2 (JBL C660 GTI replaced JBL 608GTI, HAT L4 replaced JBL 400 GTI mid)
Cables DLS, RF, ....
Distribution Blocks - Audison


Goals - Highest possible SQ, with enormus dynamics, good transparency and also capable of high output

started on door panels. Friend found some hi-tech laptop - almost as old as I am 

Door panels are closed type with volume aprox 10 liters.

doors are prepared for FG - predrilled and roughen ABS parts, upper part is taped off...





























a few layers of mat and resin



















started on speaker rings








































































I must stil fab base for waveguides


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

big tools:
































































a small progres on back side panel base. I also prepare speaker rings..now is everithing ready for speaker rings positioning and stratching fabrics.

I damped back side with Butiflex - damping material very similar to Dynamat Extreme - to prevent any panel resonances and ratles


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

some tough measurements
















fabrisc stretched and ready for resin. Im using this very elastic fabrics - we call it Stratch. It is very easy to work with. I glued it on back panel side with hot plastic - it holds fabrics in place and it is easy to remove it when done. I never tryed to work with CA glue...
















resin applied








new shoe protection called.... "blue five".... :jesterlol :embarrass
















layed down first few layers of mat. It is coming out very nice and clean
After 2-3 layers I cut excess material with sharp knife - I dont wait for FG to fully cure...I cut it off when it is hard as cardboard. This way I save a lot of time and itching.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

10 layers and panels are now 0.3 inch thick. Yesterday we test fit them in car and we did first listening test....panels are partly damped with Butiflex, and I also put a small amount of fiberfill in panel. Other damping materials will be applyed later - Brax ExVibration. Panel volume is slightly larger than 10 liters - 0.35cuft.

preparations for panel mounting




























minor repairs needed - some edge trimming at the top of panel










surgery tools and pacient










It should look something like this










now I have to do a little trimming , lay still 2-3 layers of mat over filler trimed edges, dampen panels with Brax, seal them, and finaly wrap them in vinil.

I didnt do any progress on panels over weekend - Saturday and Sunday we test mount them in car and did first listening test with new panels - first I changed settings on X-over, levels, TC, EQ - all changed from prewious install. Panel volume was a little too big and bass lacked energy in new panels, dynamics was not so good as in kick panel mounted drivers. For start I downsized panel volume with rise - now panels have aproximately 8 liters and drivers now plays very dinamicaly, very loud, full of details, bass is strong and well defined. You cant find point where mid-bass stops and TW starts playing.

After this test we took doors out of car and start work on inserts. This is what we have done in last two afternoons...

15 min of sanding



















I had to make template for insert. First I taped off panel, than draw design for insert, pull it down from panel and stick it on 10 mm MDF pice. Than I cut it with saw and trim it to the final shape with sand paper. After that I taped off insert master with Aluminium tape and secure it on panel with couple of screws. Then I applyed filler arround insert, wait until filler hardened and removed MDF insert from panel. Now I have to smooth transition from panel to insert with filler - that will be todays task
































































Thats all for today, new pics soon!

Inside panels we put special damping material from Brax. We also finished with sanding, and panels are redy for vinil. Still have to fab inserts, but I have hard time finding Carbon fiber with pattern that match to the original grills.















































some new pics











inserts













Ready to be "carbonized"....










test fit in car













when Im bored i play with Photoshop (sneak preview)










That LB logo will be changed for a lot smaller and aditional logos will be added - Alpine, Genesis, RF, JBL







































I layed only one layer of CF, laminated with Epoksi resin. Different rathio compared to Poliester resin. With epoksi you mix hardener in rathio 3/1 or greater till 2/1. It cures aprox 20-24h. When cured I had no problems trim this insert with razor knife - it is easyer than FG. Later I put around it tape and apply some more epoksi resin to get a little thicker clear coat


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

daddy.... and his brush









stratching vinil









finished




































thats it, now I must fab those damn carbon fiber inserts
finishing CF inserts - applyed 6 layers of clear coat. Still have to polish them


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

another few pics with finished outer inserts































We will use Wave Guides, but we wanted them finished in Carbon, so I started with mold. First I taped it off with aluminium foil. Than I applied Formula 5 to it and polished it. I repeted this procedure for a few times. After that I applyed Gel Coat to it and later mat and resin. In the end i applied filler on the back side of the mold to aditionally strenghten it.





































I used a little too much hardener....color tells it all 




























After polishing mold a few times I applied epoxy resin and carbon fibres to it and heat it with hot air gun to speed up curing time.










wiring - power/speaker cables and AiNet & optic, fixed door panels to the doors and damped car on few spots that wasnt damped jet

 *klik* - lol


----------



## Liveris (Oct 28, 2011)

Nice job


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

started on boot install - amp rack, boot sides, and at the end with mid range part of a-pillar.

amp rack...

































amps are fastened with imbus screws because of appearance and thives



























and as usuall one stupid pic...








































































jumping from boot to a-pillars 




























4 inch midrange driver from JBL - 400 GTI




























































































started with rings for tweets and mount them on modified original tw holder.






























"New age" glasses:









...and stupid pic...

















































































test fit and first listening test


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

First - mark all needed circles on MDF - outside edge, embossed part, and cutout. Take into account finish









Prepare router - at begining use small router bit, and start in center, and proceed to the outer edge


















when you have finished inner circles move to the outside one...be very carefull that you wont make mistake here! At bottom side you should left cca 1 mm of material which will hold ring in place for further routering - rounding edges












































with razor knife cut out new born rings









Finished product









The same story is with bigger rings for mid-bass drivers and subwoofers. There you start with embossed part, when finished you should redraw cut-out circle (carefull!! you need center of the drawed circles intact so you could redraw circle that marks cutout for the driver and this center part will also support router bed). You cut cut-out hole as a last step with jig-saw.

From back side use 45 degree router bit in cutout area, so the driver can work properly (no tunnels - they can boost certain part of freq. range)

If you do it freehand it is wise to use larger router bit diameter for finish, because error is smaller and not so obvious as with smaller router bit diameter used.

Always use protective gear - mask and glasses, watch out your fingers!!! - always hold router with both hands, if needed screw down routhed MDF with screws!! Safety first!


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

spent some time designing top amp rack panel.



















































































cutout in middle will hold insert with Genesis logo, plexy under it, and wooden parts will end up wraped in same material as door panels

I made holes which will help to hold side panels in place:













....lowered part where plexy glass will be mounted:













....protection against humudity:













....wraped 













....plexy glass glued with silicone 




















end result:






















tomorow will finish side panels and mountings for them

I manage to finish boot side panels, only thing i still have to do is to mount supports on the back side of side panel which will hold them in place.










wraped in vynil










and installed....finaly


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

started to work on Subwoofer enclosure [vufer gehoze] 





















DJ in the house!





































I have rounded hard edges on inner front side, tomorrow I will position driver/port support and stratch fabrics. Mat and resin will be applied inside the box to minimize sanding time to minimum.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

secured driver to the base with Imbus screws and here is a test fit





















rings protected with alu self adhesive tape and positioned - ready to stratch fabrics.




















Before:











And after:










finished laying mat. Total 22 layers or cca 2 cm thick (0,8 inch)


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

Woofer:

Test fit


















Instaling Speaker terminal


















2 layers of glas layed on all sides 

















































































Sides lined with 1 inch thick foam









cables are in snake skin for looks and "protection" according to EMMA SQ Rulebook









Quality control









A-pilars












































Here is a few pics of wraped subbox, A-pilars and new/old amp for sub bass duties






































New amp - it is a PPI PC 21400.2 - [email protected] 4 ohms bridged AB class







































and A-pilars now wraped in vynil
made a few modifications to them, cabinet for mid is now bonded to the a-pilar so it becime one big and heavy pice. TW holder is painted in Black


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

a few more pics...if you dont mind...


























....i know...there is gap.... couldnt hide it 




























A pillars with all drivers mounted






























Yeserday I finished install, last thing I had to do were CF inserts for trunk

Soon I will start with new amp rack because I have no other place in a car for PPI amp which will be dedicated to drive SW, and also Genesis DMX (2 x 250 Wrms)
will drive 6,5 bass drivers in front doors instead SW.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

I started with new amp rack,because I could not squeeze PPI 21400.2 amp in old amp rack. Bottom of new amp rack will stay the same, but there will be CF under the amps , some plexy glass under amps and some LED lightening. OK guys, here are some pics of start





































Leds under amps will smoothly enlighten whole amp rack and plexy that will be mounted on the bottom of amps.....at least that is the plan 








































































heres some pics of amps installed. Amps are elevated from CF/MDF base. Under amps is mounted plexy and LEDs. PXA-H 701 is installed under amp rack, b/c of lack of space.























































finally .... boot is finished


Connection for LEDs and fans











Vents:




















making connections on amps











A few night shots.......not the best ones, but they will (must) do


----------



## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

:rockon::rockon::rockon:

Nice fab skills


----------



## robolop (Mar 10, 2008)

I smelled the epoxy into Belgium.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

lol, robolop,.....epoxy/CF addict
Tnx for comments!


----------



## DAT (Oct 8, 2006)

Excellent work / skills.. Love all the PICS


----------



## AccordUno (Aug 7, 2009)

When you use you router are you free handing the cuts or using a jig? Because if you are not using jigs, you got some serious router skills.. What is the thickness of MDF?

Last item, does you forearms look like Popeye? because, even when I worked out I couldn't handle a router like that precision

Impressive


----------



## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Down wind from Chernobyl?


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

more or less I use routher free hand. MDF is 19 mm thick, top amp rack cover is made out from 16 mm MDF.


IBcivic.........could be the Cernobil afterparty efects ......who knows


----------



## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Bravo!

"new shoe protection called.... "blue five".... :jesterlol :embarrass" made me laugh, thanks!


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

this is freaking nice install! what made tyou use the jbl comps and subwoofer?


----------



## AccordUno (Aug 7, 2009)

LBaudio said:


> more or less I use routher free hand. MDF is 19 mm thick, top amp rack cover is made out from 16 mm MDF.
> 
> 
> IBcivic.........could be the Cernobil afterparty efects ......who knows


I wish I had half your skill with the router.. Thank you for sharing your install.. Makes me want to reconsider how I do things..


----------



## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

Hats off to your routering skills!! :toff:

D


----------



## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Wow you got skills my friend,those a-pillar pods are killer.Can you train my router to do those tricks?


----------



## Melodic Acoustic (Oct 10, 2005)

Very nice, Very nice indeed. Great job sir. Loving the A-Pillars and Tweeter bridge/mount.


----------



## robert_wrath (Apr 24, 2011)

This was a sick act of fabrication! Truly brilliant work accomplished.


----------



## jpeezy (Feb 5, 2012)

Really nice fab work,tastefully executed,well done! Great vinyl work!


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

optimaprime said:


> this is freaking nice install! what made tyou use the jbl comps and subwoofer?


I used to play arround with PA some 20+ years ago and I used quite a lot of different equipment from BBC/B&C, Electro Voice, RCF, Fane, JBL......and I hadn't any issues with JBL gear in all this years + sound was allways very Dynamic and quite accurate compared to other manufacturers equipment,...later I used their systems at home and also in car audio,.....I stuck on JBL gear for car audio for at least 20 + years, started to use it somewhere in early 90's...TC series, and later only GTI series till now.



jpeezy said:


> Really nice fab work,tastefully executed,well done! Great vinyl work!


Thanx man. If I hadn't have such a materials I would never ever manage to stichhless wrap all this products. This type of vynil is in Europe called bielastic vynil, and it is really a fun to work with, it is VERY stretchy in all directions....only downside is it is quite sensitive to scratches and mechanical injuries.....


Thanks for all nice comments!


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> Wow you got skills my friend,those a-pillar pods are killer.Can you train my router to do those tricks?


yea, no problem, just send it over the pond for a few training sessions


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

Found a few pics of dash and head unit modifications

Dash:
















































Head units front plate was modified - black eloxated and laser engraved, plastic buttons were painted mate black


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

rings for HAT L4





























Test fit:





































no way back...




























grill fabricating


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

underdash damping....first I layed a couple layers of FG mat, than a layer of damping material (Butyflex) and a layer of self adhesive very thick (1/2inch )fleece





























underdash cable mess

































































Testing time....:



















panels dont lay perfect on the dash, but it was just for test to see how L4 mids behave on this location....We soon realized that there are few problems caused by reflections, so we scrap this panels and turned back to a-pillar installed mids....with mids installed in a pillars we had better loudness, imaging and stageing and almost none reflection issues......much better results.


----------

