# 06 Civic Ex build



## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well I was going to do this a long time ago but never got around to it. Since this build started I've actually stopped building and started going in a different direction. However, that build will be forth comming. Time is very limited in my busy lifestyle as well as having two kids, it's hard to do everything at once. But that's for another time.

So here's what I have installed at this time. My thoughts on this install, before we get started was to do a stealth install in the trunk, subs, amps, etc. and still have space to be able to put stuff in there, like my softball bag, golf clubs, stroller, kids bags, etc. I think you get the point. 

Not going to go through the head unit install too much. You've seen one h/u install you've seen most. I soldered my wires, and taped them. This was before I learned about heat shrink. 

Before (Stock Deck)


After (Pioneer Avic D3)


This is the location I chose to put the Navigation Antenna as well as the Sirius Stellite Radio Antenna. This is the stock location for the Civic Navigation unit. It seems to work great.


On to the sounds. I have Rockford Fosgate Power Series Mids and Highs in the doors and the rear deck. I started off with dynomat on the insides of the doors as well as the outsides of the doors. Here you can see the dynomat and the mids in the stock locations. They were then coverd with dynomat for extra coverage. 


There are two sets of tweeters in the front of the car. I started off with the dash set, where I just put an extra set in the stock location. Nothing really to see of those. They have already changed to the sail window locations pictured here.










Then there's the second set, which has gone from here to the doors as well. I've since replaced the trims with new one's and the tweets are under the handles of the doors. They really work well there. 



So that's all I had time to do for now. I'll do more later. I'm up for comments. I look forward to hearing what everyone thinks.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so moving on with the install. 

Next I started on the trunk. As I said before i wanted to try and stay as stealth as possible on this because I have "baggage" that I need space for in the trunk. So a big sub box was out of the question. So I got to thinking. The rear corners of the civic are pretty sizeable, considering the size of the car itself. So I took out the carpet trim and found a pretty decent size cubby. So I figured, why not learn how to fiberglass. 

I dynomatted the trunk first. (Well these are after the boxes were made)






Then I did the sub boxes. 
Driver Side


Passenger Side




Then I chose to use an mdf face to attach to the fiberglass. I used 5/8" mdf with another piece behind the face to countersink the sub. The theory here was to make it so that the whole thing could be covered with grill cloth and in the end it would look stock and you would not be able to see the subs. Here's the boxes with the subs in them. The subs are Rockford Fosgate P3SD410's. Shallow mounts. 

Driver Side


Passenger Side


More to come.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The next order of business was to build some kind of rack to house the crossovers for the components as well as the capacitor. Yes I said capacitor. This, as I said before, was before I learned about different stuff, how useless capacitors are, on this site. That's getting changed too. This was done on the back seat with, again, 2 pieces of 5/8's MDF. Second piece was to raise the face off the seat to run the wires. Here are the pics.

This is the bottom piece against the seat. notice the cutouts for wires etc. 


Rear of the face panel with wires in and ready.


Front of the face panel with crossovers ready to be wired up.


Wired up and ready to go. My Cap is charging at this time. That's why it's not in the picture. But you can see where it will go, right in the middle. It's also Rockford Fosgate. 


Installed


That's all for now. More later.


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## Fiercetimbo17 (May 17, 2007)

Nice fabrication, but why the 2 sets of tweeters?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

To be honest I'm not really sure. At the time I thought more speakers meant better sound. That was before I did some reading on here and research. That's all changing in the near future.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

great work! 



scooter99 said:


> To be honest I'm not really sure. At the time I thought more speakers meant better sound. That was before I did some reading on here and research. That's all changing in the near future.


Whilst most systems have a sinlge pair of tweeters, dont' discount the 2nd pair out altogether. Several tuners play with additional pairs of speakers (drivers) for particular impact on certain areas of sound.
But the aiming, tuning, blending & installation of them (the 2nd pair) is not something for the begginer. 
However here is something relatively easy to try...
Unplug one pair of tweeters for now, listen to the system with just one pair. Try and tune (using several of the tuning tutorials here on DIY) some sound out and see how they sound to you. (make a note or three about the sound)
Then diconnect the set you were listening to and reconnect the other pair, and listen to them, with the same music and similar tuning (compare notes).
Lets your ears decide what sounds better to you.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

syd-monster said:


> great work!
> 
> 
> Whilst most systems have a sinlge pair of tweeters, dont' discount the 2nd pair out altogether. Several tuners play with additional pairs of speakers (drivers) for particular impact on certain areas of sound.
> ...


Yeah I did a lot of that. Before I made the pods i wanted to see how they sounded up there so I just taped them in those positions and moved them around a little and unhooked the others and did some testing. It wasn't by any means a "just throw it in there" project. It makes a huge difference hearing them "on axis" as they are now vs. bouncing the sound off the windshield. However, I want a much cleaner better sound and I'm going to run a 3 way active up front now. So I'll have midbass, midrange, and tweets in the front. I'm excited about getting going on the rebuild.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I really like your sub pods, I've been trying to get my hands on a Sedan for awhile now to make some molds! 

Keep up the good work


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So in all this I forgot to add the most important part in the begining. You can't have sound and amps without a good wiring system. That's not exactly what I have, as I've found out, however this is what I did. I've got in here the "Big 3" with 4 gauge wire, and a single run of 4 Gauge to the rear of the car. However, I found out quickly that my little car suffers from this. I've also got an optima battery to run the whole thing. All this will be changed in the near future. I knew I should've did some research before sinking a ton of money into this system. See what happens when you think you're knowledgable about something. You're most of the time not as knowledgable as you think. I know, I know, shut up and post pics!!!

Here is the plain jane stock set up. 


Stock battery - That's outta here!


Make room for the new Optima Yellow Top. Also put on Rockford Fosgate Battery toppers to house the multiple lines that are going into each side. 


Here are the lines prepped to go in. The blue is obviously the Power, and the silver is the ground. Copper connectors, crimped (again going to change that to soldered) and this was the only thing I thought had to be heat shrinked. I guess nothing else really needs to be, but it look so much neater. 


These are the ground connections. Battery to chassis, and chassis to motor. I used the same grounding point. Not sure if that's what I should've done or not but I've had no problems with it. 


This is the positive connection to the alternator. This was connected to an inline circuit breaker of 135 amps. I don't exactly remember how I came across this amount of amps, however, I did do research on it and this is what I came up with. I'm happy to hear what people think. You will see, however, I did get lazy and ran out of copper connectors. But I had these connectors laying around so I used them. The problem is that I forgot to heatshrink them, and they're kind of close to the metal of the car. I did adjust them down, but they're resting ontop of the stock split loom and ziptied to that. But for safety sake I should've heat shrinked them for sure. Oops!:surprised:




So that's the Big 3 in my vehicle. More to come later. The amp rack!


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## cojones (Dec 26, 2008)

Nice job!


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## chrisdors (Mar 6, 2009)

nice work


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So here goes the amp rack that I built. In the first picture you can see the wires run to the rear which, I know, should've been put in the pictures above but it's here instead. Also in this picture you'll see a crossover from one of the components hanging from a zip tie. This was before I build the crossover rack, which I did because I kept hitting the crossover with stuff. I was afraid of knocking it off by throwing something in the trunk. Not very safe, so I changed it. Ok moving on. The amps that I'm running here are Rockford Fosgate amps. I have a P4004 running the mids and highs and the subs are run off of a P5002. 



Amps in 


Everything is wired up. I decided to run a non fused block for the power and each amp is grounded individually. You can also see in the background that the capacitor is all charged up and installed. 


The rest of the amp rack was supposed to have a panel that goes over the top of the entire install and then have a piece on the top that would be removable so that I can tweek and adjust the gains etc. Unfortunately that didn't get done. The 4 channel amp had a problem and I had to send it in to be fixed. RF told me that they may not be able to fix it, and that they would then send me a new one. What they failed to menchion was that the new one they were going to send me was the new model. So the install got haulted by that. 

I'll post the rest of the pictures for the install in a little while. That's all for now.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's for the positive feedback.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So this is the final step of the install that I did. I have two small children and with that comes some long car rides in traffice, to families house, etc. If you have kids you understand the troubles with trying to keep kids entertained for long car rides. Moving on. 

So with the AVIC-D3, I have video capabilities. However, with headrests in the faces of the kids, they can't see the screen all that well. So I decided to make the small investment and see what I could do as far as headrest screens for them. This is the actual install. 

The tools I used


The Screens. Audiobahn 5.6 inch screens. I got them on ebay for 120 for the pair. Plus they match the seat fabric pretty well. 




This is the install. I took the houseing for the headrest screens out of the box and laid them on the headrests to center them. Then I put blue painters tape around that to mark out where the edge of the houseing was at. I cut about a half inch inside the tape so there would be a tight fit and pulled out the foam on the inside until I exposed the bars inside the headrest. 











Little hint for those of you who do this on the kitchen table as I did. Clean up your mess. You're wives/girlfriends, or in some cases both, may not be to happy with this sitting on the dinner table. 


So this is what you should end up with when you're done. I ran the wires under the seat back and up through a little hole that was used in the factory to pump in the foam. I ziptied the houseing through some holes I drilled in the houseing to the bars in the headrest. It sits very tight. Buttoned everything back up and here is the end result. And my kids love it. Happy riding for sure!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's a picture of the headrests in the car. 


So that's pretty much where I got with the first install. I know it's not done but like I said I got haulted. That's why I'm getting ready to redo the entire thing. Here's what I have in store for the new install. 

Alpine IVA-W505 - Head Unit w/ Ipod controls
PAC-TR7 – Bypass for video
PAC-SWJACK – Steering wheel interface
Alpine KCA – SC100 - Sirius Interface
Sirius SC-C1 - Sirius Satellite Tuner
Alpine PKG-M780 – Rear 7" Headrest Monitors w/ Brain
Alpine PXA-H701 – Processor
KnuKonceptz eKs-OP5 – Optical cable for PXA-H701 to IVA-W505
Dayton ND20 – Front Tweets
Dayton RS100 – Front 4” Midrange
(Passive Crossover being built for tweets and midrange)
Peerless SLS 830667 – Front 8” Midbass
Hi-Vi B3N – Rear 3” Full Range 
Rockford Fosgate P3SD412 – Subwoofers
Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd – Subwoofer Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front tweets and midrange / Rear Fullrange
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front midbass 
Kinetic HC800 – Rear battery
Kinetic HCNBC and HCPBC - Battery Terminals
Optima Yellowtop D51R (9073-167) – Main Battery
Tsunami PP2001-PT – Battery Topper
Powerbastards Fitzall 220 – 220 amp High Output Alternator
Tsunami DB8014 – Negative Distribution Block
Tsunami FDBM-3MANL – Positive Fused Distribution Block
Gepco 61801EZ – RCA Cable
Neutrik NYS352 – RCA Ends
Bosch Relays – Remote, ignition, neons, PAC-TR7
Neons – Blue 
Tsunami X15PRBL1 – 1/0 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN1 – 1/0 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL4 – 4 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN4 – 4 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL8 – 8 Ga. Power Wire 
Tsunami X15GN8 – 8 Ga. Ground Wire
Wire Strip Terminals - For ignition, power, and remote lines
Tsunami SW912Bl-250 – 12 Ga. Speaker Wire 250’ Spool
Carlon conduit ¾” x 25’ – Power run from front battery to rear battery
Tsunami FBW801-ANL – In line fuse holder for power run from front battery to rear.
Fuses – Numerous 
Fat Mat Sound Deadener – For rear deck and etc.
Lots of Techflex and heatshrink

So that's a lot of stuff and a lot more work to do to install it all. I'm starting tonight with building the crossovers for the front stage. I'll be sure to take lots of pictures as I go, if I can remember, and keep everyone updated as this progresses. Comments are welcome and encouraged. 

Thanks for listening so far. Stay tuned!!


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Very nice. Looks like you're getting better as you go.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> Very nice. Looks like you're getting better as you go.



Well thanks. I've been doing lots of research and reading which is why I'm redoing a lot of stuff. So hopefully my improvement will show in this next install.


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## Duce2k (Mar 18, 2008)

Great job man!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Duce2k said:


> Great job man!!!


Thanks. I'm excited to get started on the new stuff. I think it'll be way better and I'll be able to show more detail on my install and build. epper:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

**** UPDATE UPDATE !!! ****

 So I started the Re-install. 

Sunday I started by stripping the trunk. I had removed the sub boxes a while ago to get the 12's in and start breaking them in. But now I'm getting anxious to get it all going. I've gotten all my gifts from the UPS and USPS men and I'm ready! 

So I got the trunk stripped and started a couple of things. I started building the crossovers for the new front stage. I have one done and the second one half done. I need to find cases for them cause they're not going to be out for show but I want them to be protected when they go in the kick panels. 

I started to take some stuff out of boxes and look at depth's and figure out where to place things. 

So that's about it for now. I have pics of some things but unfortunately my computer got a virus so I'm down and out at home for now. But it should be back up soon. I'll post pics then. 

Till next time!!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Looks great man. I'm anxious to see how your rebuild turns out. Would love a listen when you are finished!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'll tell you what. When I'm done we'll get together. I'd like to see and hear yours as well. It's coming along nicely. I think I'm about in line to get some progress moving. I got my latest decisions made and I'm anxious to get going on it. Hopefully it won't take me all summer. But with kids, full time job, softball, gym, and a wife to keep happy, time is pretty limited at this point. I'm also going to be working some overtime in there somewhere. 

You're going to UCD?


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> I'll tell you what. When I'm done we'll get together. I'd like to see and hear yours as well. It's coming along nicely. I think I'm about in line to get some progress moving. I got my latest decisions made and I'm anxious to get going on it. Hopefully it won't take me all summer. But with kids, full time job, softball, gym, and a wife to keep happy, time is pretty limited at this point. I'm also going to be working some overtime in there somewhere.
> 
> You're going to UCD?


Sounds like a great plan. 

And yup, I go to UCD.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

My wife graduated from there. 

Ok I'm gonna get busy on this thing so I can get it done. I'm feeling a little pressure now that I'm actually posting a thread. :anxious:


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## maytagman (Mar 10, 2009)

How do you make all the forms? are they vacumed bagged?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

What forms are you talking about? Nothing has been bagged or vacumed or anything. Which are you talking about and I can maybe walk you through a couple steps on how I did it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok ladies and gents here's what I've done lately. 

I began to lay out and build the crossovers for the front set up. These will be for the Dayton ND20's and the Dayton RS100's. 

Disclaimer......I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL SOLDERER!!! Also this is NOT going to be seen by anyone but those of you who are seeing it now. The plan is to find some abs plastic boxes to put these bad boys in and they'll hide away in the kick panels never to be seen again. 

By all means, however, feel free to leave comments on my terrible soldering or even constructive critisism is even better. I'm always up for learning. :computer:

On to the pics!!

Here are all the components and materials that I'm going to use while I do the build. You'll notice that they are all laying on top of a poly cutting board. This came in handy. Even though I do have a work bench. 


Next I laid out all of the components on the boards. It was a little tricky getting them all to fit. But as you can see it worked out fine. 


Here you'll see all of the skills that I have in the soldering department!!!!:laugh: The components and the wire leads soldered to the board and eachother. The one on the right is the completed one. 


Here is the top of the crossover with the leads showing. I used the orange for the positive and the yellow for the negative. Don't ask me why, I'm just not a red and black sort of guy!


And finally I was able to finish the second one tonight after it sitting in the garage for about a week now. 


So there you have it. Progress on and extremely slow rebuild. I'm anxious to see what everyone thinks. Especially those of you skilled solderers out there!:anxious:

Hopefully I'll get to start on the speaker pods next. Not so sure what my plan is as far as schedule and build order but I guess I'll just have to figure that out as I go! Enjoy. 

More to come soon.............................I hope!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

BTW thanks to a friend for designing these. I just hope he is pleased with the way it turned out!


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

Looks good. Do you have an ohm meter or multimeter of any sort to check resistance. 

Ultimately you want to make sure you don't have a short somewhere in the network. If you're unsure, just make sure you start VERY low on the amp gain and volume knob when first testing out the crossovers.


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

Good work,
On soldering, after looking at those joints: a little more heat and a little less solder. Is the solder your using resin flux cored? Is it quality solder thats not too old?
Also using a PCB cleaner before and after soldering helps appearance too.
Otherwise good work. Trust me when I say, yes we know its not MIL spec, but I bet they will work.


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

I'm not sure what I'm seeing on the back side of the board. Did you draw on it, or is that thin wire.

Also, solder flows around metal when heated enough. The back side of that board had no metal for the solder to flow around so you just got globs. Essentially you were just trying to secure the components to the board. You could have done that with hot glue, by just gluing the components to the board and ran the wire on the top like you did.

You could have also ran the wire on the back side between the components, and soldered the wire to the leads poking through the board. 

Many ways to skin a cat here. The important thing is, do they work? I've seen people mount crossover components onto plywood and cardboard. Whatever works I guess. So, it looks like you took the time to do it right. 

Just remember, things are always easy the second time around.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Looks great, nicely done.


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## mrbashfo (Mar 12, 2009)

very nice job you did htere im hoping to do a build of my own =)


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> Looks good. Do you have an ohm meter or multimeter of any sort to check resistance.
> 
> Ultimately you want to make sure you don't have a short somewhere in the network. If you're unsure, just make sure you start VERY low on the amp gain and volume knob when first testing out the crossovers.


This is going to sound extremely laim on my part but is that the thing that has the black and red needle things that plug into it and then you turn the knob to whatever you want. Then it has either a needle gauge or a digital gauge?:blush:

If so yes, I have two cheapies, but I really have never known how to use them. One I got in an electrical kit that I bought from home depot for my contracting work, and the other I bought because I thought the first one was broken and I knew I needed one for car audio.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

syd-monster said:


> Good work,
> On soldering, after looking at those joints: a little more heat and a little less solder. Is the solder your using resin flux cored? Is it quality solder thats not too old?
> Also using a PCB cleaner before and after soldering helps appearance too.
> Otherwise good work. Trust me when I say, yes we know its not MIL spec, but I bet they will work.


To be completely honest with you I don't know. I'm at work now and it's at home. So I'll look when I get home, but I really don't know about the different kinds of solder. But I'll try the more heat and less solder trick and see what happens.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> I'm not sure what I'm seeing on the back side of the board. Did you draw on it, or is that thin wire.


That was when I was trying to do the layout per the specs that I had. I was trying to figure out where I was going to run leads and the line up and stuff. So it's just drawing with a sharpie. I screwed one up and then re did the second one better and that's the template that I used, so to speak.



MiniVanMan said:


> Also, solder flows around metal when heated enough. The back side of that board had no metal for the solder to flow around so you just got globs. Essentially you were just trying to secure the components to the board. You could have done that with hot glue, by just gluing the components to the board and ran the wire on the top like you did.
> 
> You could have also ran the wire on the back side between the components, and soldered the wire to the leads poking through the board.


On the back side of the boards there were little copper looking squars on each hole. They didn't connect hole to hole, but I thought those would help that affect, because I know about the solder flowing through the wire, but it didn't work out like I thought it would. Actually I think I got things too hot cause some of them just came off the board when I was trying to solder.  



MiniVanMan said:


> Many ways to skin a cat here. The important thing is, do they work? I've seen people mount crossover components onto plywood and cardboard. Whatever works I guess. So, it looks like you took the time to do it right.
> 
> Just remember, things are always easy the second time around.


Well I'm hoping they work this time so I don't have to do them a second time. The only reason at this point I would take the time to do it over would be because it's driving me nuts and my perfectionism is getting the best of me. But for now, I'll just be satisfied with the way it is, providing it works. 

Like I said it's getting put in a box and stuffed into the kick panels and never seen again.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the other positive words and the nice jobs. I appreciate it.


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## snef (Dec 13, 2007)

nice!!!!!!


but

KnuKonceptz eKs-OP5 – Optical cable for PXA-H701 to IVA-W505?????
i think this cable will be not compatible with the optical connector on back of the w505


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## snef (Dec 13, 2007)

sorry double post


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Why do you think it won't be compatable? Isn't an opticle cable an opticle cable? Not sure, which is why I'm asking. I'm interested.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

holy crap this thread is coming along!

Very nice work, Scott. Very nice.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

holy crap this thread is coming along!

Very nice work, Scott. Very nice.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm glad you think so Erin. I'm happy you're here, I was just going to PM you. On the H701, i was just looking that the directions, it has a "remote OUT cable" which describes it as the remote wire to the amplifiers or periferal device. Do I have to use that or can I just relay the one off the W505 and run that to all? What is that for? 

What did you think about this as well, since you've done it. I know you'll think overkill but I think we've established that I was out of control and I'm down now. But what do you think about this quote?



snef said:


> KnuKonceptz eKs-OP5 – Optical cable for PXA-H701 to IVA-W505?????
> i think this cable will be not compatible with the optical connector on back of the w505


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> I'm glad you think so Erin. I'm happy you're here, I was just going to PM you. On the H701, i was just looking that the directions, it has a "remote OUT cable" which describes it as the remote wire to the amplifiers or periferal device. Do I have to use that or can I just relay the one off the W505 and run that to all? What is that for?
> 
> What did you think about this as well, since you've done it. I know you'll think overkill but I think we've established that I was out of control and I'm down now. But what do you think about this quote?



Use the h701’s remote out. Your headunit probably won’t have enough juice b/c it’s also powering the bypass (I’m assuming you’re using the pac tr-7). 
The beauty of the h701 is that you only have to run the ai-net (and optionally a digital toslink) to it from the headunit to carry analog/digital signal. The 701 then turns on your amps. 





For the w505 optical out you’ll HAVE to buy their proprietary cable. They quit using standard toslink output on that headunit. It was a major PITA when I got mine in and realized that my optical cable wouldn’t work with it. If you look in the manual of the w505 you’ll see it gives a model #. This is the cable you need:
Alpine KWE-610A Optical digital adapter cable for Alpine IVA-W505 DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com

But they say it’s been discontinued… how f’d up is that?!

Search my w505 review thread. I mention the Panasonic cable that you need to buy. I don’t know if you’ll be able to find either of them, but either one will work. Those are THE ONLY two cables you can use, though, for digital out of your headunit to the h701.


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

scooter99 said:


> That was when I was trying to do the layout per the specs that I had. I was trying to figure out where I was going to run leads and the line up and stuff. So it's just drawing with a sharpie. I screwed one up and then re did the second one better and that's the template that I used, so to speak.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, those copper pads are only glued on so they come off easily with too much heat. Not enough heat and you get no flow. I think you have about .00523 degree delta that you can work with in between the two. 

I am a MIL SPEC J-STD-001B certified solderer, though I haven't had to do anything to that level in LONG time, but those boards even give me a hard time. 

I'll give you a quick rundown that will get you a little better results.

Rosin Core solder. I prefer paste to tell the truth, but for down and dirty, quick jobs, Rosin Core gets it done. The problem with Rosin Core is you have a short time before the Rosin is gone and you're left with a lump of solder. That's why I like paste. But for this job, Rosin Core will be fine, IF you get your lead and pad nice and hot before you touch the solder to it. 

If you find out that the solder you're using is not Rosin Core, go buy some flux paste instead of rosin core solder. The flux paste is extremely messy, but it'll make your life easier. 

Then clean up with alcohol like another poster said. A sponge, or clean rag doused in rubbing alcohol will clean all the flux off the back of the board. 

When using flux paste, paste it onto where ever you want flow to occur. Once again, it will only flow on metal though.

Hope this helps a bit.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok well if it's optional I'll just skip it for now. What a freakin mess. Leave it up to alpine to have their own stuff and discontinue it! Oh well. I'll get buy for now without it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> Yeah, those copper pads are only glued on so they come off easily with too much heat. Not enough heat and you get no flow. I think you have about .00523 degree delta that you can work with in between the two.
> 
> I am a MIL SPEC J-STD-001B certified solderer, though I haven't had to do anything to that level in LONG time, but those boards even give me a hard time.
> 
> ...



Ok now you're just going to make me re do the entire thing. Great! 

That's funny cause like I said I do construction and I do soldering pipes etc for plumbing remodels etc. I had no idea that it worked the same way. 

Now I have to figure out how to undo everything so I don't have to buy the new components. What about that?

Thanks for all that info by the way. I got almost all ove it accept for the .09er6832 Delta thing! :laugh: I have no idea what the hell that means but ok.


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

scooter99 said:


> Ok now you're just going to make me re do the entire thing. Great!
> 
> That's funny cause like I said I do construction and I do soldering pipes etc for plumbing remodels etc. I had no idea that it worked the same way.
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to undo everything so I don't have to buy the new components. What about that?


Just heat it up and flick it off. This is best done over your lap, while wearing shorts. Make sure you where your safety goggles though? :laugh:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> Just heat it up and flick it off. This is best done over your lap, while wearing shorts. Make sure you where your safety goggles though? :laugh:


Maybe I can do I with nothing on and that would be even better!!!!

I guess that's crossing the line a little huh!!!:laugh: <-----I love these smiles


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's a surprise for everyone waiting patiently for me to update with pics and stuff. 

Here is my wiring diagram and plans etc. Any question fell free to fire away!:rifle:











That's about it for now. I've got other diagrams for relays etc. but that's about it for now.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's another update. I thought about it and thought about it all day long. 

I went to the local electronics supply store here in sac. and I purchased a couple of plastic boxes and some other stuff that I knew I would need for the install. 

Also found out some frustrating info but I'll explain that at the end. 

I got home and opened up the boxes tonight so I could throw the crossovers in them and see how it fit and where to drill for the wires etc. Well they didn't actually fit. The screw holes for the top of the box were keeping it from dropping down in there. 

So I thought about it some more and looked at the crossovers and read this some more and my anal side got the best of me. 

I'm gonna rebuild them. I bout all new boards, different solder, and the works so I could do a better nicer job. Also I'm going to condense it a little bit so that I don't have to buy new boxes. So we're back to square one...sort of. 

Now for the frustrating part. I did days and days of research and price checking and such for some wire to build innerconnects. I bought some online and got some neutrik ends and the whole 9. I walk into the electronics store this morning and what do I see? Freaking canare star quad in 6 different colors for .50 freaking cents a foot!! I wanted to scream. Then to top it off I found some better rca ends then the ones I got for a buck cheaper, I think. They were less I know that. But after shipping and stuff I would've saved some freaking money if I'd have know. CRAP! Oh well. 

Ok more when I make some progress!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

buy a half dozen 25 cent rca's to practice on b-4 you try to solder-up your cables. and get one of the soldering holder thingies...the base with alligator clips to hold your rca while ur soldering. does 2 things...frees up your other hand and soaks up heat...gives you that extra second ,before the connector melts and turns to poo....


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

<<<jealous of your head-rests....nice work so far.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> buy a half dozen 25 cent rca's to practice on b-4 you try to solder-up your cables. and get one of the soldering holder thingies...the base with alligator clips to hold your rca while ur soldering. does 2 things...frees up your other hand and soaks up heat...gives you that extra second ,before the connector melts and turns to poo....


By 25 cent rca's do you mean those cheapy plastic black and red one's? If not which were you referring to?



stinky06 said:


> <<<jealous of your head-rests....nice work so far.


If you like those, wait till the rebuild. I'm putting in 2 alpine 7" screens in place of these. I may have to get new headrests cause these are square, and those are widescreen style, but i have the screens and they're gonna just fit. That'll be a while though until I hit that stage. 

If you want the one's in the pictures let me know and I'll give you a good price.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I have an update for everyone. 

Today I bought a truck for work purposes but I got a steal of a deal on it. It's an 02 chevy 4wd silverado, 4 door. I got it for 3500.00. But what that's going to do is allow me to start making some progress on the car. Cause now I can start tearing it apart for the rebuild and I don't have to worry about making sure it gets back together before the next day. 

Progress is nearing I can FEEL IT!!!!!!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> By 25 cent rca's do you mean those cheapy plastic black and red one's? If not which were you referring to?.


 exactly...i'd practice on a bunch of those,b-4 i'd try the good ones... :blush:i did kinda melt one of my good quality rca's during my first attempt at making my own cables... i also got screwed and paid 1.25/ft for canare cable....live n learn..





scooter99 said:


> If you like those, wait till the rebuild. I'm putting in 2 alpine 7" screens in place of these. I may have to get new headrests cause these are square, and those are widescreen style, but i have the screens and they're gonna just fit. That'll be a while though until I hit that stage.
> 
> If you want the one's in the pictures let me know and I'll give you a good price.


 hmmmmmmm....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> exactly...i'd practice on a bunch of those,b-4 i'd try the good ones... :blush:i did kinda melt one of my good quality rca's during my first attempt at making my own cables... i also got screwed and paid 1.25/ft for canare cable....live n learn..
> 
> 
> 
> hmmmmmmm....


I'll pm you.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I had a thought just now. I was reading another thread and it sparked an idea of mine. I could use some input on it. 

I have 2 RF shallow Dual 4ohm 10's from my previous install that I was going to sell. I also have the RF shallow Dual 4ohm 12's that have been broken in and are ready to go in. 

So I was thinking of installing both sets of them and picking up another amp. My thought is to build a box to house all 4 on the back part right behind the seat. This would not hinder my space issues cause it would free up the corners because I wouldn't have boxes in there. 

The amp I was looking into is an RF P500-1bd. Much like the P1000-1bd that I'm going to run the 12's with now, only it's 500 watts not 1000. Reason is because the 10's take less and I'm not sure about running all 4 on the 1000-1. I think maybe I would have frequency problems. But I'd love to hear input on it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's a new idea that I came up with for my doors. I want to install Peerless SLS8's and we're (civic sedan owners) are having issues with this because of the design of the door card, and running into the dash etc. Well I've come up with an idea on how to get around all this if you don't mind temporarily dismantling pieces. Let me get started and I would love to hear some feedback, especially from the fellow civic owners.

***Please keep in mind I have not done this yet. This is just to show what I am planning to do and how I'm planning to do it.***

Ok so here's the first picture. This is of course the door put together and I'm getting ready to start the process. The next picture is the door card off and the door, which has already been dynomatted, however I am planning on putting more on, since I'm putting in these SLS 8's.




Next is the back of the door card. Here I'm going to take off the entire bottom of the door card. Now the whole thing is put together with screws, and plastic pieces that have been melted to connect the top and bottom together. I simply took this apart by, obviously unscrewing the screws, and then taking a 1/4" drill bit and just barely drilling through the plastic pieces. You don't need a ton, maybe an 1/8" or a little more to be able to get through. DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY DOWN, this will kill you later!!! I'll get to that.




Now the top and bottom have been separated. 


Now it's time to show you what I'm putting in and where. This is the SLS 8 in the area which I wanna install it. 


Well that's a little hard without cutting on the door and all kinds of other stuff. We've all figured that out. Well heres' where I'm going to show you a plan on how to do all that and still keep your door card intact so if down the road you wanna sell this thing, why you would wanna do that who knows , you can simply put your door card back together and it'll be stock once again. Here goes! 

First we're going to protect the door card by taping it, foil cover it, plastic cover it, whatever the hell you have to do to prevent the resin from seeping through and ruining the card. Remember the objective here is to save the card for later use, and recreate it. Next wrap the front of the door card with something to fiberglass over it. I am planning to use grill cloth, because I have a **** ton of it and it's thin. We'll see if that's doable or not. Remember I'm not a professional. Just someone who loves this stuff and does it in my garage. But you never know till you try. 


You'll see in this pic that the top pieces can go right back on top of the newly glassed, or will be glassed, bottom piece. I know I didn't take a ton of pictures of all this step but like I said it's not being done yet. When I do get it started and done, everyone can rest assured there will be a whole lotta pictures to look at. 



My next thought on this, which I'm still debaiting on is how to do the back of the pod. I have come to the conclusion that I'm going to somehow figure out how to attach this thing to the actuall door. I was thinking of flairing the bottom and sides of this thing and making some plugs so I can screw it to the door. Then the vinyl plugs would go in and it would be hidden. Other than that I don't know what really to do with it other then screw it in from the inside. Maybe I could use some bolts attached to the door and the pod would slide on top and from the inside of the pod I could use some rubber or neoprene washers to seal it and then tighten it with nuts. HMMMMMM!!! 

Ok Moving on!

Here is the color that I am going to use to re face the whole thing. I was only, originally going to do the pod but now that I look at it there isn't much more to do on the door and it would match perfectly. Right now the color is so damn close you wouldn't be able to tell in person, but the texture is different than what's on the door. So I will probably go that route.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

lmao! well, that'll definately work. 

I thought you were trying to use stock locations... so carry on!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

SO now comes the time. You're done with this thing. Don't want it anymore. Make too much money need a better car. WHATEVER! Here's what we do to put it back together. Pay attention. I'm going to refer back to my previous post to complete this. 

So what we're going to do now is take the door panel and pod off the door. We're going to lay it down and dismantle it again. So now what you should be left with is the top piece of the door card.

You take that piece and the bottom piece, that you've been storing all this time, and you put them back together. Hopefully after all this time you remember how it goes back together.:worried:



Now we're going to put the screws back where they go, you'll know by the threads in the holes. We're also going to get some screws, you'll most likely need thicker ones than I used to demostrate this. I used regular sheet metal screws. I would use pan heads, and even put washers on them if you're worried about it. But where we drill ed all those holes to separate the two cards, which is why I said don't drill all the way into it, we're going to screw these back together. Here's what it looks like!





And here we are back together. Happy selling!!! 



What does everyone think?!? I'm anxious to hear!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> lmao! well, that'll definately work.
> 
> I thought you were trying to use stock locations... so carry on!


No sur! I actually did originally when I put in those power 6.5's. I was thinking about it cause that's just me being crazy. Then I started reading around here and saw how it's used quite often it seems, and I started researching it. Then figured out it wasn't gonna work. That's when I came up with this idea, which I was trying to do to make it so I could put it back together in the future if needed.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Scooter, been keeping up and things are moving along well. My only concern/suggestion/whatever you take it as, is to just chose two of your subs, the 10's or 12's and go with those. The two would be receiving ample power instead of minimal power with four. Also, you most likely wouldn't gain as much as you would think, and when going for SQ you'd be better off not loading the subs up. You'll be happy with 60 Hz and down response I'm sure, and with your 8's in the door you'll be able to keep your soundstage forward. My other question... although the passive x-overs are a great excercise, you have the amplification to easily to 3-way active + sub. I'm not sure why you need to do the passives when you can add a simple 4 way pre-amp x-over and have adjustibility for your subs, midbass, midrange and tweet. Audiocontrol makes quite a few nice options that aren't very expensive.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Another thing, is your 8 getting to far to the back of the door? You may get some blockage from you leg. Since you're completely fabricating a new lower panel, you can aim and place the 8 nearly anywhere you want. You can mock up a ring on the lower panel in your desired location without damaging the stock panel and pull your cloth from there. Your mockup could stick to a very specific area with 3M tape or something. It would be pretty easy to duplicate for symmetry on the driver and passenger doors. It may also help to provide a smoother more fluid panel, since the stock speaker grill looks like it may give you some problems. I know you just did a quick mock up and the real deal will use more care, but just a suggestion.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

InjunV18 said:


> Scooter, been keeping up and things are moving along well. My only concern/suggestion/whatever you take it as, is to just chose two of your subs, the 10's or 12's and go with those. The two would be receiving ample power instead of minimal power with four. Also, you most likely wouldn't gain as much as you would think, and when going for SQ you'd be better off not loading the subs up. You'll be happy with 60 Hz and down response I'm sure, and with your 8's in the door you'll be able to keep your soundstage forward. My other question... although the passive x-overs are a great excercise, you have the amplification to easily to 3-way active + sub. I'm not sure why you need to do the passives when you can add a simple 4 way pre-amp x-over and have adjustibility for your subs, midbass, midrange and tweet. Audiocontrol makes quite a few nice options that aren't very expensive.


Well I did some measuring and research after I posted that and figured pretty much it was a no go. I'm sure I could make it work but not worth the extra. I'm gonna go with the 12's in the corners and just stick with that. 

As for the xovers. I wasn't planning on going completely active before. I got some help from a friend on here and he set me up with an idea and we went that way. Then I got a hold of a pxa-h701 processor and I'd already made the crossovers. I'm also doing rear fill for the kids with the movies and I think all my channels are taken up. Or in short of the pre determined and constructed crossovers, I don't know.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's a great point ont he speaker blockage I hadn't actually thought of that. But I could very easilly make it closer to the stock location. I'll get working on designing that.


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

The only thing I have to say about the doors is to make the enclosures STRONG. Read up on what makes a good baffle as well.

You can aim them if you want, but the bandwidth you need from them doesn't really necessitate that. Just don't point them away from you. 

Again, STRONG!!! I can't stress that enough.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I will do that for sure. My plan was actually to point them more up ward. On the picture that I posted it shows down but I will make sure it's not pointing down. I'm going to do research on the baffle as well. Thanks for the input!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now if I'm understanding correctly, the baffle is basically what's going to take the brunt of the pressure. So like if I made a ring out of 3/4" MDF and resined it, would that work? The resin for extra protection. Then of course it's not really getting outside weather because it's glassed inside the car not actaully on the door like others or stock would be. Am I on or off?


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

scooter99 said:


> Now if I'm understanding correctly, the baffle is basically what's going to take the brunt of the pressure. So like if I made a ring out of 3/4" MDF and resined it, would that work? The resin for extra protection. Then of course it's not really getting outside weather because it's glassed inside the car not actaully on the door like others or stock would be. Am I on or off?


Understand that a baffle is truly for separating the front wave from the back wave. Since the backwave has energy, you need to use materials that have the ability to block and/or absorb that energy.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> Understand that a baffle is truly for separating the front wave from the back wave. Since the backwave has energy, you need to use materials that have the ability to block and/or absorb that energy.


Ok which is why you deaden correct? I do plan on doing that inside the pod. I'm sure I didn't menchion that. I should've been more prepared before I threw all that idea and picture post up huh. 

Sorry ya'll I'm chompin at the bit ready to get rollin. Not going according to plan.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Sorry, I missed the h701... I think I saw it earlier, but totally forgot. Well, I have an opinion on this and you can take it as you will. Since you have the power of Alpine's mac daddy processor you are good to go. Your 505 has dual zone capability, which (you probably know) allows you to play different sources in different zones of your vehicle. Each monitor, from what I remember, has the ability to be a different zone. Not to mention you have the PKG-M780 which allows for all the separate zones and what not. It seems your kids could use the included headphones and you could get all your channels actively crossed through the h701. Everyone wins. In the case you want to play it through the entire system you can still do that. 

Last question to more experienced h701 users... are the high level speaker outputs off once the h701 is plugged in. I know the RCA outputs aren't able to be used anymore, so the speaker wires may be in the same boat. IF they aren't, you can run rear speakers off the headunit power. I just haven't read through the manual and didn't look into it since I didn't plan on using rearfill. 

I obviously don't know how much your kids are in the backseat and how much they watch the screens, but if too much, you may get more bang for your buck since you have all the ability to use headphones and source selection with the PKG-M780.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Also, there are quite a few great door panel builds here. I'm sure you've checked some but really try and read through them for the theory of the backwave and frontwave separation that MiniVanMan (MVM) brought up. As he mentioned, frequencies at the level the 8's will be accountable for aren't as susceptible to off-axis troubles. You may also want to read up on the sealed response vs. the infinite baffle response. Since you're making a new panel, you may be able to create a sealed enclosure which can increase your midbass response depending on the speaker.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I have questions. I'm reading, as we speak, about the IVA-W505 and the PXA-H701 and how to operate them and set everything up. I'm sorry first of all for not just doing this before, but I kind of really dislike reading. Anyway, no excuses, I appologize for my laziness. 

So I'm looking at this and it has a section on "Phase Switching". So I looked it up. Here's what I found. 
Phase switch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now I'm not an idiot, really I'm not. But I might as well have been reading this crap in spanish cause I have NO CLUE WHAT THE HELL THAT JUST SAID! So can some of you electronic geniuses help explain to me what that all means? I'd like to understand it really I would and if someone has the time, I would gladly be taught. 

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty straight forward, as far as setting up the H701. The only thing I can see myself getting caught up on so far is figuring out the timing thing by their calculations, cause well here in AMERICA, we go by INCHES AND FEET, not METERS!! Now that I got that off my chest, I'll google a conversion calculator to figure this out. 

Man!! My brain is fried right now. But on the other hand I'm starting to loose some of that intimidation that I had yesterday about the H701. I'm starting to think I can do this! We'll see!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Sorry everyone I just got stumpped again. 

So I'm planning on running a 3 way system up front. I'm using the tweeter, a 4" midrange, and an 8" midbass. So here's my delimma.

On the H701 it only has 2 fronts and a rear. Then the center/sub and subwoofer channels. So I'm assuming my tweeters would run off of the front 1, then the midranges, off the front 2. Where does my midbass come in and how do I get a signal to that? Would I run RCA's from the H/U to the amp and then tune it from the amp. OH SO CONFUSED!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Am I supposed to be using the rear channel for the mid bass? Is that why I'm being told to use the H/U for the rear fill?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Sorry everyone I just got stumpped again.
> 
> So I'm planning on running a 3 way system up front. I'm using the tweeter, a 4" midrange, and an 8" midbass. So here's my delimma.
> 
> On the H701 it only has 2 fronts and a rear. Then the center/sub and subwoofer channels. So I'm assuming my tweeters would run off of the front 1, then the midranges, off the front 2. Where does my midbass come in and how do I get a signal to that? Would I run RCA's from the H/U to the amp and then tune it from the amp. OH SO CONFUSED!!!


 the rear output will be for your mid-bass.... 

1>tweets,2>mids,3>mid-bass,4>sub(s) and if you use rear fill..........run em straight off the hu outputs....no need to process those....kids/wife/ passengers wont know the difference


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so let me ask you this then. My amps have a piggy backing ability for rca's. Could I piggy back off my 4 ch amp for another amp to power the rear fill speakers? I have the amp, I just need a signal. Since it's all going to be used for the front then I need to do something about the rear. Suggestions?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

you could,but the signal going to that amp[with the piggy back output] is commin from the pxa-h701.....so it may not be what you want going to your rear fills.... i'd use a full range signal from the h-u's ''rear'' rca's and use the h-u settings to tailor the sound...well..thats what i'd do if i needed rear-fill.
i actually like having some light fill from the back , actually...but i am not puttin in speakers on the parcel shelf,any more....waisted cash in my case.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I will look into doing the rear on the head unit. Diddn't someone on here say they thought that the rca's on the head unit were no longer active once the ai net cable and the h701 were used or something like that? If that's not the case though, then that's the perfect way to go. Meaning hooking a signal to the rear output rca's on the head unit.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> I will look into doing the rear on the head unit. Diddn't someone on here say they thought that the rca's on the head unit were no longer active once the ai net cable and the h701 were used or something like that? If that's not the case though, then that's the perfect way to go. Meaning hooking a signal to the rear output rca's on the head unit.


 if ur using an alpine hu like the w205, i believe the hu's outputs do not work anymore. but if ur using the c701 controller with a ''brand x'' hu..ur outputs remain active.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm using the W505 with the H701.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I was just looking at the manual for the W505 and I'm not seeing anywhere as of yet, that says they rca's don't work when the processor is hooked up. I'll do more research but I'll post something to ask if anyone knows this for sure.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

alot of members have/had the w505 . i dont think you will have a hard time getting some answers.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Posted


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I've been researching this IB thing. I found something, just because this is what I already have, and compared it to what this says. However I'm not sure I completely understand that. Here it is.

Look for speakers where the Qts is greater than .6, and a Vas lower than the volume available when selecting a woofer for an infinite baffle system.

So we all know that I'm using RF Shallow Mount 12's. I've bought them, and broken them in, and now I'm ready for boxes. But I've been turned onto this IB system. So I looked at the specs of these 12's and here's what I found

My QTS is .70
My Vas - cu ft is .74 or (21 liters)
So what is my volume and what does that mean? That's the last part I cannot figure out at this point. Can someone help me with this please?


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## kevismyhandle (Jan 1, 2007)

Nice install!  Do you still have access to your spare tire?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

volume would probably be the internal volume of the 'box'. I guess that's what you're asking about.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

kevismyhandle said:


> Nice install!  Do you still have access to your spare tire?


I will have access to the spare tire. That's a must with 2 kids in the car. Don't wanna be stranded on the side of the freeway with my precious cargo. So that's a number one top priority on the install. 

I'm actually thinking of installing some gas shocks on the amp rack so they can lift easily. We'll see how that goes.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

yeah Bikin I'm sure that's what it is. 

I think I've decided to forgo anyting extra. No more looking at amps, no more changing things up. I'm going to get going on this thing and call it a project for now. If I decide later on to change that's fine but I need to get this done. I'm getting too wrapped up in this is better or that's better or whatever. I have the stuff I'm going for it. So keep an eye out for progress updates. I'm going to start, most likely next week tearing the rest of the car apart to start re installing.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just cause I'm a curiosity freak and I'm probably never going to finish my product. Does anyone know, well I know of a couple people that do for sure, who to contact for these AE subs? I want to talk to them and find out some info as far as how far out etc. Can someone get me some info please so I might contact them. I've been looking at the site but I cannot see anything that I can contact them by. I'll keep looking but if someone could help me that would be great. ThankS!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I've got some questions, hypathetically. If I were to go with a 5 channel amp to run my front stage, would that work with the 5th channel going to my midbass? Or does that need to be run stereo to adjust and all that with the processor? 

I'm looking at 4 amps right now in my car, and they're a little sizable. What I was thinking was selling off these amps to go with the Alpine series, or at least thats what I was looking at because of the PDX's small footprint. I'm probably going to end up with the AE subs for the IB set up. The more and more I research and read the more I want to do the IB set up! So here's what I was looking at because I'm a freak and I'm obsessive compulsive, but just hear me out.

My thought was that if I could use a 5 ch amp, I was going to go with these.

Alpine PDX.5 - For all front stage. Tweets, midrange, and midbass
Alpine PDX 1.1000 - For the subs
Alpine PDX 2.150 - For the rear fill. 

I'm still not sure on the rear fill. I think I might try the head unit first and see if I get enough out of it, and if I do then I don't need an amp. That would put me down to 2 amps instead of 3 which would be even better. However, like I sadi before if I could get it down to 3 then I'd be happier. Even if I was at 3 I would be better off because of the size difference with the amps. 

I could really use some feed back right now. 

If I can't do it this way then I'm just gonna stick with what I have because there's no since in selling off and buying and ending up with the same basic stuff. If I sell off the stuff I'm planning on selling I'll be around 1500+ for an amp budget. That is above what I'm looking at for buying. I'm looking at about 1000.00 and some change right now for the Alpine amps. 

That would leave me about 400 to 500 for the AE subs. I contacted them tonight for more information but haven't heard back yet. 

This brings me to another thought to throw out there. I have been doing some more research on these subs (RF P3SD412) in the IB set up. While I haven't seen anything that specifically singles out these subs for the IB set up, I have been on the RF forum and, their people who represent them, say that all RF subs are able to do IB setups. So I might just do the build to house that IB and start with the RF. If it doesn't sound like something I want to improve on, as far as buying the new subs, then I'll just build boxes like I first planned and go that route. The only thing I'll be out is time and a few materials. 

Again I'm up for any comments or thoughts anyone can give me. :worried:


As far as an update, I started building my wire strip terminals tonight. Stripping wires, and soldering connectors, and all that good stuff. Didn't get very far cause duty called, kids, so I'll work on it more tomorrow. I'll get some pics up too. 

Thanks and sorry for the rambling!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Just cause I'm a curiosity freak and I'm probably never going to finish my product. Does anyone know, well I know of a couple people that do for sure, who to contact for these AE subs? I want to talk to them and find out some info as far as how far out etc. Can someone get me some info please so I might contact them. I've been looking at the site but I cannot see anything that I can contact them by. I'll keep looking but if someone could help me that would be great. ThankS!


your best bet is posting on their forum....john is just too busy , but his associates can answer most of your questions. you need to be patient with ae...and dont forget they custom build to order...thats why it takes a bit of waiting.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I've got some questions, hypathetically. If I were to go with a 5 channel amp to run my front stage, would that work with the 5th channel going to my midbass? Or does that need to be run stereo to adjust and all that with the processor?
> 
> I'm looking at 4 amps right now in my car, and they're a little sizable. What I was thinking was selling off these amps to go with the Alpine series, or at least thats what I was looking at because of the PDX's small footprint. I'm probably going to end up with the AE subs for the IB set up. The more and more I research and read the more I want to do the IB set up! So here's what I was looking at because I'm a freak and I'm obsessive compulsive, but just hear me out.
> 
> ...


start by playing with what you have.....i had a single type R 12'' as sub,b-4,so it was a no-brainer, i just sold it ....

the decision to go i-b came to me after reading bikin's ae vs. fi thread... then,i pulled out an older car audio mag and re-read an article on a car that i had listened to in person and remembered how the sound was so incredible....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So your thought's then is to just do like I said and work with what I have. Then if I like it upgrade from there?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

but i f ur gonna go ib with your r-f stuff,make sure you plan ahead and build it so it can be easily modified , in case you dont like the result.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

:cussing:

Ok so I just got off the phone with Alpine's technical support and they said that once the H701 is hooked up that the rear rca outputs and the hu speaker outputs are no longer useable. They're shut off or something. I couldn't remember. SO NOW I'M F-ED on the rear fill. Not sure what to do. I'm back to the drawing board I guess. I may not be able to use the H701 if I can't figure this out. I'll have to go back to square one. I could use some suggestions or help with this please. 

Is there a way to hook up a signal for the rear fill amp to the monitor brain? It's the Alpine PKG-M780. 

AGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> :cussing:
> 
> Ok so I just got off the phone with Alpine's technical support and they said that once the H701 is hooked up that the rear rca outputs and the hu speaker outputs are no longer useable. They're shut off or something. I couldn't remember. SO NOW I'M F-ED on the rear fill. Not sure what to do. I'm back to the drawing board I guess. I may not be able to use the H701 if I can't figure this out. I'll have to go back to square one. I could use some suggestions or help with this please.
> 
> ...


here is an idea>>>
c701 stand alone controller........then u can still use the h-u's outputs for rear fill or process the rear fill and use the h-u to control your sub.....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I think I've got it! I think I've solved my rear speaker problem. So I'm using the W505, the H701, and in the rear I'm using the PKG-M780 headrest package. Well here's what it says in the manual about the plugs, one being an output. 

If AUX3 SELECTION S/W "OUT" position
Audio input / output connectors
Use these connectors to output the audio
signals to other products.

So here's my thought, and I'd love someone to chime in on this, but I'm going Ai-Net cable from the 505 to the 701. This is going to operate my front 3 way, and my subs. The rear fill is only for the kids and their dvd's correct. So I'm going to hook up that last amp for the rear fill to the outputs of the headrest brain. So in theory it should only recieve signal when that is switched on, correct? Anyone wanna weigh in on this?

I'm anxious for sure now!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm going to try something out and see if it works. I posted on here somewhere asking about making my own video patch cable for runnung from my head unit to the pkg-m780. So I went to my local electronics shop and picked up a couple of 75 ohm rca connectors, and some belden 8421 wire. Its RG-59/U cable, not that I know what that means but its what was suggested. 

So I'm gonna give it a try and if it works I'll post up a diy since it doesn't appear there is one. 

Here goes!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm going to try something out and see if it works. I posted on here somewhere asking about making my own video patch cable for runnung from my head unit to the pkg-m780. So I went to my local electronics shop and picked up a couple of 75 ohm rca connectors, and some belden 8421 wire. Its RG-59/U cable, not that I know what that means but its what was suggested. 

So I'm gonna give it a try and if it works I'll post up a diy since it doesn't appear there is one. 

Here goes!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Scooter, I believe this is kind of what I mentioned earlier in your build log. The w200 I know, and the w505 I think, has a dedicated a/v out that is separate from the audio rca's. With this you can hook a simple av rca (red white and yellow) to the monitor brain. You have dual zone capability from the 505, meaning you can play the radio or ipod in the front and a dvd in the rear or either combination. The PKG kit has the headphones and you should be able to use those for your kids. In the event that you want Spongebob all the way around you can just play the DVD through the whole system. I think you'd be surprised how much sound you'd get in the back with such a powerful front stage.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

**Update**

Ok so I'm very very frustrated today!  Yesterday I went to my brother in laws house cause he was going to tattoo my friend, and while he did that I was going to work on my car. 

My plan was to change out the wiring in the engine bay from 4 ga. to 1/0 ga, techflex and heatshrink everything, and put in my high output alternator. 4 hour, 5 tops, job right. F*&@ NO!! 

I started at 10:00 yesterday doing wires and getting things started. Pulled the battery, pulled the air box to get behind and under it. Removed all the 4 ga wireing with the exception of the lead to the back. 

I wanted to change the stock wiring from the battery and the fuse box to the alternator etc. to clean it up and as well because it was pretty short at the battery. Had to follow all that and so there was a lot of time taken finding wires and where and how they went. Things are going well. 

Then it happened. I pulled out the new alternator and looked at its beauty. I was pretty excited.  I pulled out the old alternator and looked at it and I noticed a problem right off. On the old alternator in the civic, and for you civic people pay attention cause this is a detail as well as a question. On the old alternator ther is a square plug next to the power post. It has 4 little wires that come out of it. On the new alternator there was a rectangular plug that had been filled with sylicone as if to say, not needed, without actually saying it. Now I'm not a mechanic by any means! However, I've learned that if something is there in the factory piece, it probably is there for a reason. 

So I call up Powerbastard's and say look here's the deal, I'm comfused cause it appears I'm trying to put a square peg in a rectangular hole. Do i need an adaptor or what's going on? They simply said "Oh you don't need that, just tape it off and zip tie it for safety". Ok, doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy, but ok! 

So I get the new alternator ready to go in, and I hit my next issue. I tried to put the bolt in the top and, not only are the feet on the top of the alternator an inch and a half wider than stock, the bolt is too short to go all the way back. So now I'm starting to panic, because what was supposed to be an easy swap is turning into a nightmare. 

So I say ok, think about this, and I ran down to the lowes nearby and I picked up a couple bolts and a ton of washers to use as spacers. I'm excited again, great no problem. 

Then the tension spring won't fit on and now I'm actually realizing that this alternator won't work.  Again! 

Ok so I figured forget it I'll call them and figure it out, put the old one back in wire it up and be done. I got the old alternator in and COULD NOT FOR THE LIFE OF ME GET THE BELT BACK ON!!!!!!! NOW I'M REALLY MAD!!!!!

Long story short, I had a friend of my brother in laws come over and figured it out. Then I had to run the rest of the wires so I could get home cause I was an hour and a half away from home. I didn't get home until 12:30 last night. 

I managed to take pictures and I'll post those up tonight, I hope, but it was an extremely frustrating day and more frustrating that I have to call Powerbastards to find out what's the deal with the alternator. 

I forgot about the Tsunami Optima Battery topper that wouldn't work right. But like I said I'll explain when I get the pictures up! :mean:

AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm a freaking idiot! I've figured out what I did wrong on one part of that alternator. I figured this out before I emailed the company to ask them what was goign on. 

So before anyone laughs at me for being an idiot :loser1:, don't forget I'm not a mechanic.

So where I went wrong was I was thinking the tensioning spring went to the alternator. It doesn't. It goes to the same bracket that the alternator bolts too, which is why it was directly in line with the bottom foot. I just figured it out. The lightbulb went on! :idea3: So I guess that would've worked afterall. 

However I still have a problem with the connections being different, and the top feet being too wide. I have an email to the company to figure that one out, and again, if anyone knows what that connector is for, please let me know. Thanks!

So that's it for now. Pics later. Hopefully at lunch!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok ITS OFFICIAL!! I ordered my AE IB15 today. Woohoo!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok ITS OFFICIAL!! I ordered my AE IB15 today. Woohoo!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok ITS OFFICIAL!! I ordered my AE IB15 today. Woohoo!


 1 or 2 [ib15]?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

2 baby!!! WOOTWOOT!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So i don't know how accurate this is but I'm looking at my order sheet, and through the drool, it looks like I have a date of 4/15/09 for delivery. Again I don't know how accurate this is but that's pretty cool if it is accurate. 

Also I've been in contact with Powerbastards about my alternator and we're hammering out the details of what needs to be done to get this alternator in. I'm also getting help with some others one this site. Thanks to all. We're getting there.

This has been a huge snag in the progress right now. I have to have this stuff done so I can run the wires and the power to the back. Once that's done I can start with the other stuff. I guess it's really not that big of a snag because there's so much to do but I've created a worksheet to stay somewhat orgainized and this is the first thing on the sheet is finishing the engine bay. Alternator gets done, and the battery issues with the terminals, and we're on and rockin. 

I still have pics to post but that'll have to wait till tonight. Been a busy weekend and week. I swear it'll get on tonight.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> So i don't know how accurate this is but I'm looking at my order sheet, and through the drool, it looks like I have a date of 4/15/09 for delivery. Again I don't know how accurate this is but that's pretty cool if it is accurate.
> 
> Also I've been in contact with Powerbastards about my alternator and we're hammering out the details of what needs to be done to get this alternator in. I'm also getting help with some others one this site. Thanks to all. We're getting there.
> 
> ...


 i hope it works out for you,scott. i am curious to see how well this alt fits in there.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> i hope it works out for you,scott. i am curious to see how well this alt fits in there.


I am too for sure. I'm waiting on him now. I sent him the specs for the Civic charging system for the 4 wires in that plug. He's going to see what they go to and let me know so that I can either create a plug for the new alternator or just use connectors and plug them in that way. So we'll find out when I hear back from him. 

The other issue was the pulley on the alternator was too thin. He's sending me a new pulley to put on. So that issue is solved. 

So all I'm waiting on now is the answer to the plug issue. 

I'm downloading pictures as we speak so I can post em up!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

*** Update ***

Ok so I got anxious and started, then thought, OH CRAP I FORGOT TO TAKE A BEFORE PICTURE. So this is where I started picture wise. 

I already took out the battery and started to remove the wires and plugs from the alternator.


I started to trace the wires and find out where they went. The white wire that connected from the battery to wherever and then to the fuse box, and as well the black wire, which I later found out went from the fuse box to the alternator. 


Lines removed. The black one looks so short because I cut it to get it out easier. 


New line to replace the old


Soldered the connectors, techflexed and heat shrink. Ready to go back into the harness.


Back in the harness and ready to go back into the fuse box.




The other end of the white wire goes behind the engine. I was not about to try and trace that. So I soldered the ends of that and the new wire together, techflexed it and added heat shrink. The wire originally was pretty short and along with the other side of it made a tight fit to the battery. That's why I decided to change them out. As well I wanted a little cleaner look.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Next is changing the Big 3. 

I have done this already but I was using 4 ga. wire. I'm upgrading the line to the amps to 1/0 ga so I'm doing the same to the big 3 up front. 

This little beauty was one that I did not change originally. I found it while I was looking at and around the alternator. So I decided..."why not!"



New 1/0 ga. soldered, techflexed, and heat shrunk. Ready to go in. The next pic is of the old and new side by side. BIG difference! 




Installed


So i guess with this one being added to the mix it can be considered the Big 4. 

Next is the grounds on the other side near the battery. One goes from the chassis to the engine, the next from the chassis to the battery.


And in.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So onto the frustrating parts of the day. 

Here's the alternator. Objective, to replace this with the high output and be done with the front of the car until it was time to run the 1/0 ga. to the back. By the way in the previous posts I forgot to mention that the red wire in the pictures, not in techflex, is the 4ga run to the trunk. Incase anyone was wondering.

Here's the old alternator in.


Old and new, side by side. SHE'S A BEAUTE CLARK!


Old alternator reinstalled after 5 hours of frustrating fighting with the car and the lack of knowledge of what I was doing. Go it now, but it did not prevent a long long day frustrating day. The lines are the 1/0 ga from the battery, and the smaller 4ga. under that is the line that replaced the old black line to the fuse box. That was posted in the first of the three posts above. 

Again everything techflexed and heatshrinked.


Here comes the par for the course of the day. Put the Optima Yellow top battery in. Excited about the topper cause I've been sitting on this for months now, and was prepared for this beautiful clean wiring install. NOPE!!
Installed the battery.


Then figured out, the hard way, that the battery that I have does not go with the battery topper. But now I needed to do something because I had more lines than my old terminals would handle. SO I improvised, frustratingly, but I did it anyway. 


So needless to say I'm back to the drawing board on this part of the install. But whatever, so goes life I guess. This was the end of my day. Everything back together and piled everything else in the trunk so I could make my hour and a half trip home. What a day! 


Till next time! I hope to have more updates on the alternator soon! Stay tuned!! :worried:


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

If you figure out a way around Honda's ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit, let me know! The ELD is stopping me from doing my last SPL build with 2000 watts RMS


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

06BLMUSTANGGT said:


> If you figure out a way around Honda's ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit, let me know! The ELD is stopping me from doing my last SPL build with 2000 watts RMS


I don't think you can get around the ELD but why would that stop you from doing an spl build. I'm running about 1800 watts on this system but I don't think I'll have any problems. My old system was running about 1000 watts and I had some headlight dimming but other than that I was good. Just was time to upgrade. 

Are you running a second battery for your system?


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> I don't think you can get around the ELD but why would that stop you from doing an spl build. I'm running about 1800 watts on this system but I don't think I'll have any problems. My old system was running about 1000 watts and I had some headlight dimming but other than that I was good. Just was time to upgrade.
> 
> Are you running a second battery for your system?


Actually I can get around the ELD in my 1997 Civic. I have a reprogrammed ODB1 ECU with the ODB2a to ODB1 conversion harness on its way to me as I type this. I may not be emissions legal, but I can always swap my stock ECU back in for testing day should they ever start testing in my Parish (County to the rest of you in the USA).

As to why would I let the ELD stop me? You do know what the ELD will do right? It essentially turns off your alternator to save fuel by putting it into low voltage mode when it senses that there is no load on the fusebox. Hit a few long, drawn out bass notes and watch your battery go down to nothing quick. Also, a second battery won't fix it if the alternator is in low voltage mode and barely maintains the battery or batteries in your case. Trust me, you will be charging that second battery periodically via a battery charger! 

I am only at 1200 watts RMS right now with a Kinetik HC1400 and my stock alternator is finally showing signs of going dead on me. A high output alternator would have been useless to me with the ELD kicking it into low voltage mode down to the 12.3 volts I measured it at


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well that's some ****ty info for me. So what did you do again? I'm not sure I'm following that one.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> Well that's some ****ty info for me. So what did you do again? I'm not sure I'm following that one.


Basically, I am going to run a bootleg ECU that bypasses ELD all together. In other words, my car won't even know it has an ELD circuit after I drop the new ECU in. 

Regardless, when your voltage drops into the 12s at highway cruising speeds, it sucks big time. But on the flip side, you might get 1 more MPG out of it Oddly, this feature does not exist in Japan... Thanks tree hugging eco weenies for trying to screw up my sound system plans


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And how much is this costing you and how do you get one? I would assume this isn't something that's sold at performance parts online stores huh. Just curious. But you're running spl correct? Which is more draw and harder hitting isn't it, than sq? Again just curious. Never really understood the whole SQ vs. SPL thing. 

I love bass and I love that feeling deep in your chest when the bass hits. And at the same time I love a crisp clean tonal sound. So I guess by definition I'm really in the middle of the two. Unless I don't understand correctly.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

*** Update ***

I started removing my sail tweeter pods tonight. I also mocked up the baffles and positions for the new pods for the mid range and tweeters. Sorry no pics yet, but I have all day tomorrow and I'm hoping to get most of the way done. I'll post pics of the progress when I get a chance. Most likely tomorrow night. 

For now, I'm off to bed. It's waaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy past my bed time!! 

Night ALL!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's the deal. I'll have pics ready soon. I've ran into some trouble doing the sail pods. Happy with the way they formed up, but I tried to do body filler over the grill carpet and the glue came off the carpet. Now I have a nice mold of the sail pods, but nothing that's sticking to the panel. 

So now I'm expiramenting with fiberglass resin and the grill cloth. After that I'll touch up with the bondo, and sand and paint. The final result will be vinyl, or at least at this point it will, and there'll be a lot of work to make that good. 

Little frustrated at this point so I decided to take a break.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So it's been a frustrating weekend for me. 

Started the pods yesterday and you saw, from the last post, how that ended up. I went a different direction today and things turned out pretty good so far. Didn't have a whole lot of time today to work on things but I tore down ehat I did yesterday and started from scratch. I decided to go with a full wood baffle instead of a partial and then fill it. Just seemed like too much work. 

However, I'm reporting to you tonight via freaking cell phone aka "crackberry" due to my laptop crashing. WTF!!!! Now I have no computer cause my brother is fixing the desktop that my mother got a virus infection on, and now the laptop is down. I give up! So needless to say there won't be pics for a few days, unless I can do it at work, but things are pretty busy at work lately. So anyway, I'll get em up asap!

By the way no comments of late. Did I loose everyone on this thing or am I not entertaining enough? Anyone care to share?

Have a good evening all!


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## syd-monster (Jan 7, 2008)

were watching...
but were simple folk. Pictures say 1000 words sorta stuff.
crackberry=owned. lol!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

For sure. I understand. I'll get there. I should have one of my computers back tonight. If that happens I'll get the updates up. I've got one side of the apillars half way done, after I ripped everything off and started over. Happy with the way this one is turning out. I was able to turn the speakers so they angle towards the driver and passenger. now I have to figure out how to create a grill for them. But progress is comming about.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

*** UPDATE ***

Ok I finially have a running computer. One anyway. But I am posting pics now like I said I would. Sorry it wasn't last night. Forgot yesterday that I had a softball game last night. Wife's been working late, and not getting paid for it , but that's another story. But with that I'm having to be ok kid patrol, so no time to work on the car. But this is what I did this weekend. I know that I updated with no pics earlier but I'll go through it again this time with pics.

Here goes.

So here are my pillars that have been removed and stripped. If you will recall earlier in my thread I had built some fiberglass tweeter pods here. Those came out to make room for the new pods to house the Dayton ND20's and the Dayton RS100's. 


I used a piece of 1/8" birch plywood that I bought when I built the tweeter pods, and cut it to fit in the back of the pillar. This will be bondoed and painted black, since the windows are already tinted pretty dark there, and that will hide anything that can be seen from the outside. 




Here's where it got frustrating. I tried a couple of different ways to move and adjust the midranges to face the driver and passenger but it wasn't working out to well.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then I went with this and this is the one I was ready to go with. It worked perfectly, or almost, to what I wanted as far as facing. 


Then I covered it up for bondo.


Then this is where I really got irritated. I had a perfect mold of the face, but nothing that stuck. Then I went to glass resin and it did the same thing. GRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!! 


So back to the drawing board!


So this is what I'm going with. I'm extremely happy with this set up. I wish I'd have thought about it before. I noticed some stuff on a couple different threads on here and that's what I incorperated into this build. 




I cut some 3/4" MDF rings for the speakers, and cut them at angles to create the adjustment for where I wanted them to face. I also used 1/8" hardboard for the baffle, and I added another piece to the back of it for strength. Although it's only a mid range and a tweet so we're not putting a lot of pressure into it. But why not?


I used some trim for countertops to make the surround, which will later house a grill cover, incase I need to remove speakers for whatever reason.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

In this picture you may not be able to see it very well but the tweeter sticks up above the trim line by about 1/4". That would've stuck out in the grill cover. It was faced a little sharp anyway so this has been changed and it's perfect now. 


Everything is glued in on this side and ready to fill, somehow. I'm looking for suggestions on this. I really think I'm going to try the bondo route again, but I wanna get some input before I go there. I'm still needing to do the other side. So I have time but again if someone could help me with some suggestions that would be great.


Here's the bottom of the a pillar. I have to seal this off as well. 


So there is what I have for now. More to come later. Now I have to go to work.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

You want to fill in the area around the trim ring to create shape right? You don't want to stretch fabric over and resin it? If not, try a little expanding foam. Let dry and then easily sand and shape.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's a good idea however I hace wuestions about that. I'm going to do vynil to finish and I'm worried about getting a smooth surface for a nice finish. Could I do the foam and then do the bondo on top to get a nice surface or would it do the same as the glue and break it down? Also if I just did the foam would the glue for the cynil break it down as well since its a chemical?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

BTW, sorry about the terrible typing, I had my eyes dialated this morning and couldn't see crap on my phone. That's what I was responding from.


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## SUX 2BU (Oct 27, 2008)

Those are very good questions. I'm not sure what kind of resin breaks down 2-part foam but I know some do. I thought though there was an expanding foam that wasn't susceptible to resin eating it? Hopefully somebody who knows chimes in.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I actually got a little over anxious tonight and just started filling with Bondo. :worried: I skipped the foam insulation simply because I tried it on a different piece to work it and tried to sand it and mess with it and it wasn't going well. :annoyed: I looked and looked and it wasn't too much filler that i needed, or so it seemed, and so I thought I'd just go for it. You won't learn unless you try right!! :anxious:

So I got some done tonight, and I noticed that when I went to check on it a little while ago, that it had cracked a little on the edges. :worried: Like it had lifted a little bit. But after pulling and picking at it, it's on pretty good. No comming loose, that I can tell. 

So needless to say I'm very excited and I'm going to keep on moving forward. epper:

Now I have to sand down some spots and get another layer on top to smooth it out. Then of course sand some more, and etc etc etc. Then I'll be ready to fill the pod and install the speakers and wires. Not necessarily in that order. 

However, we're making progress and that's what matters right!!!! :laugh:

I'll get some pics up tomorrow. Right now, you guessed it, bed time!!! NITE!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok a little venting session here! :mean: 

So normally I don't go around, even if i'm treated badly, and bash other people or companies. But i'm getting a little irritated. 

I got my H/O alternator at Powerbastards.com. I posted about my issues with fitment etc. I told them and at first they were really willing to work with me. They said they would send me a new pulley cause the one that's ont here is smaller than the stock one and it creates a danger for the belt. I also scanned and sent over the specs on the electrical charging system cause they said they would create a harness to go to the stock plug and the new alternator. Well it's been about a week now and I haven't heard back from them. Sent emails checking on status, of the pulley and the harness and nothing back. 

Then i ordered some new stuff, db blocks etc, for the install. Got everything ordered and a couple days later received an email from pay pal saying I'm getting a partial refund. Ok? So i emailed 12Vtoolbox.com, twice, and it's been a couple days now and no response. It's not the entire order but partial order. I can't even add it up in ways to get the damn amount. So i faxed them today cause the only number I can find for them is a fax number. 

WTF!!!!!! All I want is my stuff! Not that difficult! Not that unreasonable! What the hell is going with these companies anymore! 

Ok I'm done I guess, but still irritated!


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

scooter99 said:


> Ok a little venting session here! :mean:
> 
> So normally I don't go around, even if i'm treated badly, and bash other people or companies. But i'm getting a little irritated.
> 
> ...


It's little **** like this that drives you crazy. When little things keep you from making progress it just burns me up. Especially when it's due to somebody else not coming through on their end.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So here's the latest. Ironically 15 minutes after I sent the fax to 12vtoolbox they replied to my email. They said they were out of stock on the things I needed. **** comes to mind but no big I'll get it somewhere else, I hope. So that's solved. 

Then I heard back from powerbastards. Mike is the guy I've been talking to. After our conversation about the harness and telling him about the eld and that those wires need to be hooked up. Then him saying he would build a new harness so they could plug in, now we're back to square one. Which is him telling me that I don't need them and to just terminate them somewhere safe. Aaaaggggggghhhhhh! 

So I told him that I don't want or need lights going off on my dash, which the most likely will, so that I can have this thing. I said that if he could give me his specs on the alternator, I'll take the specs for the civic and build one myself. I haven't heard back again. 

Subsequintly, however you spell it, the pelley for the alternator is on its way. But if I can get that harness connected to the alt. I'm gonna send it all back anyway. 
I guess I'll just try the extra battery with stock and see what happens. "Cross that bridge when I get to it"!

I don't know. Suggestions anyone? Customer service is going out the window in america anymore!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

out of sheer curiosity,i will disable the eld feature and monitor the voltage on my car.........also to see if it will throw a warning on the dashboard......
strange co-incidence my laptop died friday night ,right after work. tiz no fun being stranded w/o internet ,when away from home.
scoot, keep it up...i like the way your front stage is progressing. i am kinda jealous about the sedans for that "perfect spot" to stealth-mount mids n highs.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's too funny. It's fixed now so I have all my electronics finally working right in my house and on my side. 

I'm haveing a delema now. I'm trying to figure out my run from the battery to the rear. I need two inline fuses, at the battery, and one in the trunk for the Kinetik battery. The run from the front battery to the kinetik battery requires two fuses. I have the one in the back. I'm looking at a 2 fuse block for the front, or two inlines, but I don't have much room, as you well know being a civic owner, to mount it. I was thinking about some kind of cover for the battery, which is an optima, but I'm not sure how to mount it or go about it. I was really banking on the battery topper which, as I wrote about earlier in the thread, did not work out. So now I'm back to the drawing board. Any ideas? 

I was actually thinking of a plexi cover for the battery but will that be an issue because of heat? 

Also do I need to run a line from the main battery to the rear kinetik from the negative side? I thought I only needed to ground to chassis in the back. However, I see alot, the people make a run from the front to the back. 

I could use some input. I know I'm not to that point yet but, its stuff that's been on my mind. 

BTW thanks for the complaments. You're in my neck of the woods aren't you? How's your stuff going?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

BTW I am going to change the front battery from the optima to a Kinetik 1400 or 1800 eventually. Just don't have the money right now for that.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

no i am in charlotte nc for another 2 weeks[work] 
you do not have to run a ground lead from the front to the rear...the car's chassis is more than you need to carry the load,all you need is a good ground to solid metal. the rear seat-back bolt is a good example.
you do need to fuse the positive lead from both your batteries.. low esr batts do not like shorts at all.[none do,actually]
plexi is good, as long as you do not over stress it...it shatters. polycarbonate[lexan] is way tougher,very tolerant [even when bent] , just dont paint it[lexan]..it is chemicaly sensitive. 
i scheduled some vacation time to install my AE subs...and i am getting a some cash-back from the taxman ......i sense a luxury liner /damplifier order,soon....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I said plexi but I was thinking lexan. Couldn't remember the name. Thanks! I was thinking about tinting it actually. Never worked with any of it but I guess you don't learn if you don't try!

I may be getting some back as well but I'm doing some facelifting to the house so guess where that money's going?!?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I disconnected the harness.got about 500 feet and the battery light went on. Grrrr!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So after disconnecting the harness and getting the battery light that came on. I pulled over and re connected the harness and to noone surprise, I'm sure, the light went off. So I think at this point I'm ready to send this alternator back unless he can promise me that they can make a connector for it. I cannot drive with that thing on all the time. Makes me too nervous and the light doesn't match my dash lights. Little civic humor there!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

OK SO I'M SOOOOOOOOOO EXCITED ABOUT THIS!!!!!!!!! 

I'm sure some of you are going to look at this and say what I did wrong, or I could've done this differntly, or what did I do that. I DON'T EVEN CARE RIGHT NOW!!! 

I'm about 90% done with one pillar. So before I go onto the pictures of the rest of the build, let me just say a couple things to keep in mind. 

Number one, I've never done anything like this before. I did the tweeter pod but that was a slide in place type of thing. This is way different in my opinion. 

Secondly, I've never done vinyl either. I've done carpet galore and I've done vinyl in a house but never in my life have I done it on a car.

So with those things in mind here we go!!!

When I left off last time, I was almost ready to start filling. That's where we'll begin. If you don't remember it's at the top of page 6. 

So I filled in everything for round one!


Sanded round one.




More filler, round 2.




Sanded round 2.


Filled and spread round 3. Almost there. This is starting to come out good, in my opinion.


My little helper. BACK OFF PERVERTS SHE'S ONLY 4!!!


Sanded round 3. Also filled the bottom vent. Now it's a completely sealed enclosure.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's the back. I gave it a quick sanding again, cause I filled a couple places, and now it's ready for paint!! I'm painting it black because of the windows that this is going in front of. The windows are tinted at 30%, however you can definitely see through them. So this is what I did.




So here comes the next project. This is the one that I was most anxious about. Never done it, didn't really know what to expect, but I had an idea and that's what I went with. 


So the first step is going to be to do something with the speaker area. I can't just let it be wood or filler color, that just won't do. I can't just paint it, cause well, that's tacky. So I decided to carpet it. I'm using some black carpet I got at home depot for about 47 cents a square foot. Or something like that. Not the easiest thing to work with but it's what I have an that's enough. 

First I tapped off the surrounding area cause I don't want glue on everything just yet. I wanted to get this done and not have my hands in glue the whole time. I also used latex gloves which actually worked pretty well. Kept my hands clean anyway. Ripped em all to hell by the end but it served it's purpose. 


Carpet is in.


Speaker holes cut!


I didn't get a picture of this but here's what I did to lead up to this next point. I pre cut a piece of cardboard to put over the carpet so I woudn't get glue all over it. Then I laid the vinyl down and the trip piece and sprayed them pretty well with the adhesive. Then I let them sit a minute or 100. Did some laundry, played with my girls, then I came back. 

This is the final result. I had some difficulty with a couple of the corners, namely the small curve of the speaker area, and the outside curve of the trim behind the midrange area. They're pretty sharp and the were a little stubborn. 


Speakers setting in they're spots.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now to cover it. I took a regular piece of paper and some foam board I got at wal-mart and created a template. Once it was cut out and to the size I liked I transferred it onto an 1/8" piece of birch plywood. I cut the holes out for the midrange and tweeter using a couple of hole saws, and then I painted it. I glued on some feet using dowls and a hot glue gun. Then I coverd it with grill cloth. 










And here are the final results. 




The grill cloth and the vinyl look different but in person they're really really close. They look a little differnt, I think, because they're different materials. But it's close enough to not worry about. 

So there it is and here's where I stand at the moment. Me being me I don't like the way the grill came out. I've already removed it and am going to build another one. This one got too loose cause I sanded a little too much trying to get it to look good. Well it's meant to be a pressure fit. I have no room for a bracket or anything like that. So now I'm going to use a couple pieces of 1/4" mdf and stack them. I'll have to cut for the angles and the rounds for the speakers but in the end it will sit on the bottom of the speaker area but be flush with the top. So when you look at it, the vinyl and grill cloth will meet. 

I still have to solder and run lines out of the pod, and I have to mount the tweet and mid range into their perspective holes. But I'm almost done with one. 

Till next time! I'm out!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

awesome.... i wouldn't worry about the slight mis-match in color ....it looks oem. even the original factory radio bezel color doesnt match the speedo pod's color..
beautiful workmanship,scoot!


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## mmiller (Mar 7, 2008)

Excellent work there!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you for the complaments. Unfortunately today I can't work on it at all, because well, it's easter, and I've come down with a terrible cold. This thing is kickin my ass. Came on in about 3 hours yesterday morning, kinda hung out all day and today it's on full force. So the new grill will have to wait but I'm happy, for sure with the way it came out. Especially for the first time ever.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm so freaking irritated right now. As I've menchioned before, I've been dealing with Powerbastards.com, specifically Mike Savino, about getting this H/O Alternator issue fixed. The issue I'm talking about is the 4 wire harness taht doesn't fit into his alternator. It's the ELD harness which, if not connected, trips the battery light on the dash. I've expressed my opinion on this about buying a part and the stock parts connecting, you can read my post on it. 

Well I've been checking in on him, via email, because he said he could make a "conversion plug" for me if I got him the charging schematics for my civic. I thought, cool, cause it helps me, and helps him for future clients right. So again I've been checking with him for a couple weeks now, via email, and this is the latest email I sent him this morning.

Mike,

I'm just wondering what's going on with the wire harness? Have you figured it out? I think that if it's going to be too difficult I would like to just return the alternator. 

I don't think I want to have a piece in my car that's going to cause an alert light to go off. Doesn't seem realistic in my opinion. I would love to keep it and install it but again, it's really hinging on weather or not we can get that harness built and to work. I'm just wondering what the update is if any. 

Please let me know. 

Thanks,
Scott

So here is his rediculous response to me. 

Hi Scott, not sure why you are waiting on a wiring harness, I do not make those nor provide them. If you need the male plug to go into the alternator regulator I can provide that, it’s also available at any auto parts store. As for hooking the wires up to work the battery light that will be up to you as it depends on each particular car. Your car will run fine without any of that hooked up. Your order is over 30 days old and I can not accept refunds for parts older than that, sorry. Get the alternator mounted and working and if your battery light does indeed stay illuminated you can easily take the bulb out or hook the wires up if you have to. 

REALLY!!!! UNHOOK THE F-ING BULB!!!!????!!!! AFTER SAYING HE WOULD MAKE THIS HARNESS HE'S GOING TO BE LAZY AND PUT MINE AND MY FAIMILIES SAFETY IN JEPORDY? SO I'VE RESPONDED. NOT HARSHLY, EVEN THOUGH I COULD HAVE, BUT NONE THE LESS EXPRESSING MY DISPLEASURE TO A POINT. Also he said he sent off a new pulley, cause it was the wrong one on the alternator, and i still have not received it. That was about a week ago. 

Ok well i was waiting on a wire hareness because you told me that if I got you the specs for my charging system you would be able to make me one. I don't know if you forgot about that or not, it appears you did. However, that's besides the point. I have my specs and that's fine. On the specs it specifies what goes to what on an alterantor. Can you please give me the specs for the four pins on the alternator I bought from you and I'll create my own alternative. 

I understand the 30 days thing, and that's fine. I'll just deal with that. But it would seem to me that you would want to find this information out to better serve future customers with this issue, especially with the honda crowd. Furtermore, I cannot really believe that you would think it realistic to just disable a bulb for a sensor and that would be an acceptable solution to a problem. You're suggesting dangerous and unsafe solutions to problems or issues that are not that difficult to find solutions for, besides indangering people's lives and the lives of those who ride with them. I'm sorry if this sounds harsh but for you to suggest that I just disable the alert sensor for this because you don't want to find a realistic solution, puts my children's lives and my life in danger and that is unacceptable and irritates me! If you're a family man you would understand as well! 

So again, if you will please provide to me the specs for the four pins on your alternator, I will do your footwork for you and solve the problem myself. 

By the way i still have not recieved the pulley yet. What did you send it by and when was it sent? Is there a tracking number for it? I have not been able to find the email you sent me or responded to of mine saying that it was sent, with a tracking number attached. Did you send me one? 

I know it probably seems as though I'm trying to be a problem customer, but that is not at all the case. I'm trying to protect my family and as well find a solution to your product. I mean to pay this much for a product, a customer shouldn't have these kind of issues. But I'm willing to look past that and fix the prolem myself. I just refuse to put the safety of my family or friends in jepordy Just so you know. 

That's all I have for now!

Scott

So now I'm not sure what to do. I'm hoping he'll give me the schematics for his alternator, as he's suggested before me, and I've requested, but I'm not sure what to do about it anymore. 

Does anyone have any suggestions, or comments? I could use some help. The only other thing I can think of at the moment is to just sell it, if I can, take the loss and try to get one that I know has the harness built in for the civic. SO IRRITATING!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

not impressed with the ''take out the light bulb'' answer........


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

yeah me either, obviously, but I have yet to hear back from him now too. I'm at a loss now. I think I'll just put it up for sale and get what I can for it, and see what happens after that. I'd like to do another one, but the one that fits the harness for the eld is like $489.00 or something like that. Lotta dough right now. SO like I said we'll have to wait and see what happens.

I'm just very frustrated with this guy. I wish he was here not across the country, I'd feel like I had more power to do something about it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so just as a small update. 

Mike is going to be sending me the specs on the 4 pins for the alternator. Hopefully I can figure it out and build a harness or just connect them somehow so it works the way it should work. "Pull out the bulb" PSHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

Still have not gotten that god damned pulley yet. I'm now wondering if he's even sent it to me. Wouldn't surprise me. I guess if all else fails i could just pull the one off the stock alternator and use it. But why would I wanna do that when he should be sending me one, as he said he was. Sigh!!

As to the other update, not sure when I'll be able to but I'm hoping to be able to work on the car this weekend. Got stuff going on Saturday but sunday is an around the house day. But I have a trip planned for May 16th and I'm hoping to have the interior mostly done. 3 way front stage, rear fill, monitors, head unit switched, etc. Lots of work in a couple of weeks time! We'll see what happens.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I like the pillars a lot. Great job on those.

I would love to pull that off but my mids need too much room; thus I can't mount them as deep in the pocket as I'd like to hide them. Nevertheless, you have a great product. Good work.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> I like the pillars a lot. Great job on those.
> 
> I would love to pull that off but my mids need too much room; thus I can't mount them as deep in the pocket as I'd like to hide them. Nevertheless, you have a great product. Good work.


You know, that means a hell of a lot comming from you. Thanks! :bowdown:

Just as a thought, and I was thinking of doing this too if it didn't work out this time, was you could build out the a pillar in that cubby. I was thinking of putting it in there stock. Then put down some thin foam or cardboard or something to get up off the dash. Then glass it out over the dash for the base. Then you could either glass from the pillar out to meet it or fill it or whatever on the top. That way it fits and you have plenty of room that you need. But like I said it was just a thought. 

I'm hoping to get this one finished and the other one as well this weekend. Then I'll do the rear fill pods, and move onto the ginormous task of the door pods. I have high hopes and mid expectations for those. Anxious for sure on that project!! :anxious::anxious:

But like I always say, you never know until you try right!!!!

Thanks again!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok ladies and gents. Here it is! One half of one part of my install completed, well almost. With exception of the wireing it's done. Here goes!!!epper:

So when I left of last time I was having difficulty with the grill and it fitting. I think it was too loose. Well after talking to Erin today, I got the itch, no not the kind that needs cream, but I had to work on my car! So I picked up my girls, went to the park for an hour, hit Mc D's for dinner time for them and while they played so did I

I decided that this time I would try to use some 1/4" mdf, or hardboard whatever it is, and see if I could make it a little thicker and tighter then I did with the birch ply. The ply was 1/8" and it was just too thin and flimsy! So here's the first outter layer. Because the speakers are angled in the pod, I can't just set it in there and it be straight. I had to do some dremmeling, greatest tool ever made BTW, and some adjusting. Then after that was set I marked it and cut another piece for the underneith part to thicken it up a little. That way it would have approx. a half inch in places to grab onto. Here it is.


Bottom with the second piece attached.


Then I tested the fit after sanding and dremeling and adjusting. 


Then I got a little ahead of myself which I'll show you in a minute. But I got the grill cloth on and tested it.


Anyone see a problem with that picture? If not I'll give you a hint, NO BLACK FREAKING PAINT BEFORE THE GOD DAMN GRILL CLOTH!!!!! AAGGGHHHH!!! I guess I got too excited. Well I was going to pull it off and then I didn't wanna make a huge mess with the glue etc. so I just covered it over with another layer. This made it really tight and that's good cause I was worried again with the first layer. 

Taped parts off so the glue wouldn't go through. 




Second layer on and in da ho!!!


Now onto the next part!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

When I took the old pods out to start this project I had also taken out the new 12ga wire that I installed with them. I figured why throw good product away. So I decided to reuse it here. Same wire, same techflex, different heat shrink, different idea. The only thing is that I had only one run per side in the last pods, now I have two. So I'll just have to make new runs for the next pod. Meh! Whatever right! 

So here we go!

Soldered on some stinger quckdisconnects and heatshrinked them by color code. The blue is the pos for the tweeters, and the white will be the neg throughout! 


I also went to the extent, thanks to the idea of someone else but I don't remember where I saw it, to put labes on the ends. I then put clear over them to protect them from comming of during installation etc.


Re-techflexed it and heatshrink to finish it off. The other ends are not done yet because I wasn't sure if I needed to trim it up or not. So I'll worry about that later. 


Then there's the mid range line. Pos is yellow, and again the neg is white. 








Now its time to install them. I drilled holes in the bottom of the pillar pod to run the lines through. I tried to use some rubber grommets but it just didn't work. So I ditched that idea and just pushed em through. It's pretty snug, I don't think there'll be any problems.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So before I shoved the wires through I decided I better do some stuff to the inside. So I used some dynomat, I don't know what the hell it's called but it deflects sound waves. It's for behind speakers. I used it in my doors as well. 


Then I ran the wires.


Tweet connected. Then installed.




Mid range connected.


I decided before I put the mid range in that I should put in some poly fill. So I did that and installed the mid range. 




Grill on again.


Then I deadened the panel a little in back. 
.

Can you feel the excitement. We're nearing the end. But wait there's more!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now this next part is pretty much for civic people, not sure about if anyone else has this, but I thought I'd share for those who don't know how to deal with this. 

This A pillar is connected to the car using the regular pop pins with the exception of one. It's the top pin next to the air bag. It's made to break when the airbag depolys. 

I've been able to take off the trim panel and put it back on without breaking this pin but it's a pia and you have to seriously bend the panel to get it to go back in properly. Again it's a pia!! Well with the filler and the vinyl that just wasn't an option for this go round. SO I went down to Honda and asked them for some help and the parts. It's only like $1.50 per pin so I got 4, one for each front and back, cause there's one in the back pillars as well. Those are comming off too for the rear fill but that's another post. 

So here goes!

Here's the pin with the panel off and the pin still in the body of the car. The dealer said just hit it with a hammer and it would break. Not sure I trust myself near the windshield and the airbag with a hammer. I went a different route!


Wire cutters.


Bye Bye pin!


Hello new pin!


Ok I'll get back to the installing it in a minute. Now back on track with the rest of it. 

So I found a nice place for the bulky 12ga wires to fit through. So I did that first before I got the pillar up there to install. That way I could make sure they were fished all the way through. I learned that on the first install. I had a hell of a time trying to do both at the same time! F THAT!!! 


Fished!


I also labeled them for later installation. When I decide how they are going to connect I'll color code them and label them again.

Now I installed the apillar and I have to slide that pin in place to snap in the body of the car. You don't wanna hit it too hard cause you can break it and then you ahve to clean the hole and do it again. It really should just push in. You should not have to hit it. Unless you're me, and that's why I know this. Had problems with the pillare fitting right. 


Now everything is in. It's one side completed, again without wiring, but DON'T PUSH IT DAMN IT!! 

Without grill 


With grill.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So on another note, I was trying to figure out how to connect these and the mid bass, once that's in. I thought originally to use terminal strips but then I came across these babies! For $4.00 a piece I bought 2 to do the front and back. I can do all 3 lines in one plug. Less bulky and it locks together. We'll see how it works! 


So that's all for now. I'm gonna try and get the second a pillar done this weekend/week. Then it's to the rear fill pillars! But let's not get ahead of ourselves. 

Welcome any comments! Even the haters cause it always gives me ideas!! 

Goodnight all!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

nice,clean work,scoot! nice touch with the labels+clear shrink tube.


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Now this next part is pretty much for civic people, not sure about if anyone else has this, but I thought I'd share for those who don't know how to deal with this.
> 
> This A pillar is connected to the car using the regular pop pins with the exception of one. It's the top pin next to the air bag. It's made to break when the airbag depolys.
> 
> ...


DOOD, OEM FTW


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

oops...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words. Stinky I appreciate it but like I said I can't take credit for the idea. However, I will for the work seen here cause, well, I did it. I did burn one of the labels a little though. Damn heat gun. But it's the first time so I'm good with it. As long as, during the install, I know what's going where I don't really care. Not entering any shows, at least at this point. But gonna still do the best job I can. 

2167- Thanks! By the way, not to sound like I'm a dork and outta the loop, but what does FTW mean? That way I know what everyone is talking about. I've seen it around a lot but just never asked. 

****:worried:As to the build and some updates for today. I glued together some more rings for the driver side midranges, and needless to say I'm having difficulty. Meaning I have three rings cut at angles to angle the midranges towards the right ear of the driver. Now I have a delimma in that the midrange sticks out waaaaaayyyyyy further on the driver side than the passenger side. I know that uniformity, not sure if that's a word but it sounded good, is not that important when it comes to sq, but I'm pretty picky. I'm also worried cause of the way the rings were done, due to lack of room, that I have to now grind out some of the inside to match the angle so the mid range actually goes all the way in. Right now it goes in straight but that's what I need to correct. But if I sand out until I get the angle and it sits flat at that angle, I'm going to run out of material for it on the bottom of the rings and I won't have any way to attach it or anywhere for the screws to go to when I install the actual speaker. HMMMMM! 

I'm really just thinking outloud.  I'm going to take a picture or two tomorrow and put it up here to see if anyone can give me some ideas. 

Right now I'm thinking of doing it where the bottom two rings are not really rings but panels. Meaning they house the midrange and the tweeter in one piece. Stack these and grind down my angle to match the last rings angle that goes on top. So essintially I have the three rings to get the angle I want, only in this case I have enough material to attach and then screw the mid range too. 

Then I also solve the other issue I'm worried about, which is making sure the tweeter sits high enough that it doesn't get blocked by the mid range. Again with the tweeter, like the midrange, I'll do a third ring or piece that sits on top of the two panles, which will already be sanded to an angle, to acheive the hight and the angle needed. Sounds comfusing, I know, it is in my head too but I just built it in there, my head, and I think it will work. 

Not sure about the asthetics of it, and how much more it will stick out over the dash, but again the looks are not nearly important as the acutal sq of it all. 

Did I comfuse anyone? Maybe I can draw it on MS Paint or something and that way I get it out there what I'm talking about. Actually I won't waste that time, I'll just draw it, scan it and post it. 

Man it's late and with this crap in my head I'm never gonna get any sleep. Oh well. At least it's saturday night not sunday night!


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## Paul1217 (Aug 12, 2007)

FTW means "for the win", im a dork too and had to look it up before. not too up to par on the forum lingo.it took forever for me to figure out why everyone kept typing "bump" 

nice install by the way. i love those civics, so many things that can be done with them. keep up the good work!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you. 

Not much time to work on anything today. Had to mow the lawn, grocery shop, and other things. You know home ownership and family responsibilities! 

But maybe I'll get some time later tonight.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

fwiw, you can pop that airbag pin with a solid whack of your hammer-fist.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yeah I found that out the hard way myself. Ok what does FWIW mean? Trying to figure out all these short meanings on these forums. Did you get my pm by the way (BTW)?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

fwiw. forgot about the pm. checked it on the phone but couldn't reply.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

FWIW = For What It's Worth.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

AHHHHHHHH!!! Ok! Great!


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## TheTempest909 (Apr 21, 2009)

haha, stupid abbreviations


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I've not gotten a chance to do more on the car this week. It's been a busy week. I've been working my second job a lot this week because my wife want's to go on a trip with her sister and because I make the extra money in the house..........not important. I'm doing a lot this week needless to say, so I haven't been able to work on it at all. But I actually don't have any plans this weekend, at least none that my wife has told me about but it's not friday night yet so there's always that wrench to think about, so I'm going to be doing lots of work this weekend. I'm hoping to finish the other apillar, get started and hopefully get finished with the rear fill pods, and start the midbass pods. Then next week I'll be starting the power runs and stuff. 

Not sure if anyone remembers, I think it was MaXaZor's build, but I'm talking about the mats that he used in his doors. He found them at Harbor Freight. I went and looked and they're about 10.00 for a set of 4. I was thinking, just as an added to killing road noise, to put those on the floor throughout the cabin area. They're about 1/2" think, which I know would cause issues with putting the stock pieces back in, but I'll deal with that no problem. What does everyone think about this instead of going to the expense of sound deadener. I don't have much rattle at this point, except for the rear deck, and tail light, which I will address. That will all be deadened and then this mat on top of it. I was just looking at cutting some costs in places. I think 3 pkgs will be more than enough for my car, so for 30.00 I think it's worth it. 

What do you think, anyone?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> So I've not gotten a chance to do more on the car this week. It's been a busy week. I've been working my second job a lot this week because my wife want's to go on a trip with her sister and because I make the extra money in the house..........not important. I'm doing a lot this week needless to say, so I haven't been able to work on it at all. But I actually don't have any plans this weekend, at least none that my wife has told me about but it's not friday night yet so there's always that wrench to think about, so I'm going to be doing lots of work this weekend. I'm hoping to finish the other apillar, get started and hopefully get finished with the rear fill pods, and start the midbass pods. Then next week I'll be starting the power runs and stuff.
> 
> Not sure if anyone remembers, I think it was MaXaZor's build, but I'm talking about the mats that he used in his doors. He found them at Harbor Freight. I went and looked and they're about 10.00 for a set of 4. I was thinking, just as an added to killing road noise, to put those on the floor throughout the cabin area. They're about 1/2" think, which I know would cause issues with putting the stock pieces back in, but I'll deal with that no problem. What does everyone think about this instead of going to the expense of sound deadener. I don't have much rattle at this point, except for the rear deck, and tail light, which I will address. That will all be deadened and then this mat on top of it. I was just looking at cutting some costs in places. I think 3 pkgs will be more than enough for my car, so for 30.00 I think it's worth it.
> 
> What do you think, anyone?


look up mooble's invasion of the door panel snatcher[or something close to that] and foxpro's threads have valuable info,but it is scattered in bits and pieces all over diyma....it's like the davinci code of noize control.:laugh:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

OMG!!! Do you know how many freaking times I had to watch that movie before I understood it?!? I'm screwed. But I'll read it anyway! Like I said I'm always up for a lesson.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Lookin great Scooter!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you very much. I officially have the whole weekend for car work!!! WOOHOOO!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so now i have a delimma that I need some advise on. 

I went to go to the gym this morning at 4 am, as I do 3 times a week, and I noticed on the apillar that I installed last week, or whenever it was, that the pod part of the pillar has come up. Meaning that there is a ridge that is showing thru the vinyl. I'm very disapointed in this, cause it looked so damn good when I installed it. 

So I was trying to drive and not look at it this morning on the way to work after the gym and it was just too hard. It sticks out like a sore thumb to me. So an idea popped into my head. My thought is that I would go out and get some real thin, like 1/8 or 1/4" fabric foam or something that I could put on top of the entire pillar. Sand down the ridge and seal it with sylicone, just in case there are any air leaks which I doubt there would be. So seal it up then glue the foam on top of the whole pillar and pod. Then re cover it with the vinyl. I would use a new piece cause the one that I have on, I cut a little short at the top and it doesn't wrap all the way around. It keeps poppin up and that's bothersome to me as well. 

So that is the plan. If that works I can go with the same idea on the driver side too this weekend. I just don't know why I'm having such a hard time with stuff sticking to the damn trims. It's a little worrysome because with the rear fill speakers I'm not going to have just a pod, I'm cutting into the trim and then raising it and filling to taper out so it looks decent. But if this stuff keeps giving me problems sticking I don't know what I'm going to do. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

I was also trying to sell my alternator but I'm not having any luck. It's in the classified section. I may end up keeping it or selling it on ebay. I really don't want to keep it cause I don't have a way around the eld system. The people at Powerbastards, are just that, bastards and continue to give me bs answers to my update questions. So fed up. I'm looking into just getting a new battery for up front and then have the second in the rear, I know people are telling me that's overkill, but then just see where that gets me. If I have to change the alternator in the future I will, when I get more money. 

Getting a little discouraged right now with the build. I know I'm not that deep into it, but I'm hitting road blocks almost daily and it wears on ya!! 

Ok that's it for now!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I'm back again. I'm just thinking about the rear fill pods and pillars. What if I took some cloth, or something thin, and used resin to make my taper and fill. So instead of the bondo or filler, just secure the cloth from the raised speaker surround to the back side of the pillar stretching it to form a good fit, then resined it? But once again how would I secure the cloth? I could use wood and make a ring or something to secure it on the front but what about the back where it touches the plastic trim? How would I secure it so that the chemicals from the resin didn't act with the glue causign it to release? ANYONE PLEASE HELP!?!?!?!


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

scooter99 said:


> Ok I'm back again. I'm just thinking about the rear fill pods and pillars. What if I took some cloth, or something thin, and used resin to make my taper and fill. So instead of the bondo or filler, just secure the cloth from the raised speaker surround to the back side of the pillar stretching it to form a good fit, then resined it? But once again how would I secure the cloth? I could use wood and make a ring or something to secure it on the front but what about the back where it touches the plastic trim? How would I secure it so that the chemicals from the resin didn't act with the glue causign it to release? ANYONE PLEASE HELP!?!?!?!


That's the way I prefer. I can't get a damn thing to stick to the plastic in my Town & Country. I go to local experts, use the materials they suggest, and still don't get any adhesion.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

You can alway wrap the panel is some kind of carpet or vinyl so it hides those thin cracks


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MiniVanMan said:


> That's the way I prefer. I can't get a damn thing to stick to the plastic in my Town & Country. I go to local experts, use the materials they suggest, and still don't get any adhesion.


What do you think about using that idea, and in the back, pull it far enough so that it basically meets in the middle. I can use a hot glue gun to glue it to the panel. Then when I resin it, I can do it just short of the glued area on the back. Then when that dries and I put on the second layer I can go over the glued part. That way if it does come loose it doesn't all the way off the panel, cause the first part would be dry already. 

Do you think that would cause noise issues if that came loose, even though it was wrapped tight around the panel? Does that make since?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> You can alway wrap the panel is some kind of carpet or vinyl so it hides those thin cracks


It is wrapped in vinyl. that's what the cracks are showing through. it's almost like the panel settled or something. It's weird cause when i installed it there were no cracks, that night or the next morning. But I haven't driven my car all week either. So it's been sitting. But if it's doing that now, I can't imagine what it's going to do in the summer Sacramento heat. :worried:


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Oh then this is simple fix...wrap it first with a thin box carpet...THEN vinyl over that...that will hide any imperections you see.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

When you say thin box carpet, do you mean like a standard that you would find at any audio shop? Or something else?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Just use something with very light backing and make sure its stretchable


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok. What about like, fleece or something like that? And when I put the vinyl back on do I spray the glue ontop of whatever I'm putting it on. So if it is "fleece" I would spray the fleece, then put the vinyl on top?


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

I'm not sure about fleece try a local shop to see what carpet they have


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

will do! I'm out for it now!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

the material used on most of the inside trim is polypropylene or polyethylene...either way it is a challenge to get stuff to stick to it. heavy scuffing helps and so do holes[that let the resin form anchor points]. othewise you can use a few screws to mechanically fasten the parts together.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I'm gonna give it all a try tomorrow. I'm hoping I can get my a pillar fixed, the second done, and the rear two started and maybe done tomorrow. Then, if by some miricle I can do all that, I'll start work on the mid bass pods for the doors on sunday. But I won't get ahead of myself. I also have to remove the blue tooth mic, from the car too cause it runs behind the apillar on the driver side and I don't wanna have to take that out once I've gotten it in. Too much chance for destruction. I'm off to bed!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I'm off to bed for now, well to watch a movie, but I made pretty good progress for a half a day's work. I got the second a pillar ready to fill and finish. I actually went a different route this time with some spray foam insulation. I'll fill on top of that and then pad and vinyl to finish. It's looking pretty good.

The rear pillars are ready for fleece, and resin. I decided to glass it since there are so many curves, and because it's in the front of the trim piece it's got a long run to the back, you'll see in the pics, and I want it to taper correctly. Really the only way to do that correctly is if it's stretched to the point and sides, then resined. Anyway, I'm going to hopefully be done with those tomorrow. 

Not going to get to the door pods this weekend but that's ok. I have the rear deck tray out as well so I think I'll be sealing off the rear deck while everything is out. No since in trying to pull everything out again to do what I can do now. 

Ok I'll post pics tomorrow or monday. Depending on how long the day gets tomorrow. 

NIGHT!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's the deal! I made, what I thought, was a **** ton of progress this weekend. I have pics but no time to post them up tonight. I may do it tomorrow night but I assure eveyone it will be soon. 

So I got the second apillar done and ready for vinyl, the original a pillar pulled out, striped, and ready for vinyl. Then I also got the rear fill pillar pods glassed and ready for vinyl. 

Well here's what happened. I got these done and paded and ready to start putting on vinyl and I hit a huge problem, so I thought at the time. So I got some Dap Weldwood Contact Cement, which is what I found to use off of different posts by searching. So I slathered it onto the vinyl back and let it sit aside. This is on the apillar that I had to fix by the way. I didn't want to do one of the new ones and risk having to rebuild it. If I did on this one it was already in fix mode. Anyway, set the vinyl aside and as that dried I started just laying it on thick on the apillar which I put the pad on. So essentially I'm putting the contact cement on the pad. But I'm making sure I'm just soaking it right. So I got that done and let it sit, although I'm not sure I did long enough. 

I took the vinyl and it felt pretty tacky, not real tacky though. Almost like it had soaked up the contact cement. Anyway, after about 30 minutes, maybe 45 cause I was playing with my daughters while the pieces dried, I started to put they vinyl on. Well I had a terrible time doing it. Part of it stuck but most of it did not. I worked on it and worked on it and worked on it. Finally I got so frustrated that I took the vinyl off, which just peeled off mostly, and then striped the pad off. I then put a layer on top of the apillar, just bare now, and let it sit for a bit, and then vinyled it. It went on ok, but after about 6 hours now, I just went out and finally the spots I was having problems with, are stuck on. 

So I don't know if I just got impatient and too anxious to get it done or what, but I'm worried about the other three pieces that I have to do. On top of that, because I pulled the pad off, the imperfections of fixing the pillar are showing through the vinyl horribly! So I'll have to pull it off and do it over one more time. I've only got enough vinyl for one more shot really. Not that I can't run down the street and pick up some more. But it's here and I wanna get it done damn it!!!

So here's my thinking on the next try. BTW, sorry about the long write up, I know people only wanna look at pics, but I'm hoping most of you will read this and give me some ideas, or input on my own ideas. Back to the thinking. I'm thinking that I soak up the pad that's on the pieces. Let them sit for a good 5 or 6 hours. When that's up I put it on the vinyl, and then again on top of the glue that I already put on the pad. Then they sit for another couple hours and I should be able to stick it together, maybe! My thought is that the pad is just soaking up the glue and when I go to put the vinyl on it's all in the pad and not on top to stick to the vinyl. 

Just my thinking. I may try that theory on some scrap stuff before I go through the trouble of the real pieces. 

Input please. 

Otherwise everything, structuraly, is ready to go back in. I have to wire the other three pillars up, of course and build grills for them, but we're in good shape. Again I felt I had a very productive weekend. I just got tripped up before the finish line by the vinyl installation. 

Sorry for rambling. Off to bed. 4AM comes very early, especially from 11 pm the previous night! NIGHT!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here are the pics. I'll start with the a pillar, since that's what was already started. I won't go through the specifics, it's pretty much the same as the other side, that I posted already. The only difference in this one is I did a different filling process. I started with Spray Foam Insulation to fill the voids. Then I cut that off and sanded it down to a just below level point. Then I filled on top of it with filler. WOW!  Way lighter, and it went way faster. Wished I would've thought of that on the first one. Oh well. 

On to the PICS!!!!

Insulation filled and cut down.


First round of filler.


Sanded.


Second round of filler.


Sanded and ready for padding and vinyl.


I picked up so cheap, thin, padding at wal mart this weekend. This was to hide the imperfections and cracking that I experienced with the first pillar. 


Next is the vinyl. But I'll get back to that.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Yoooo man...ditch the Dap Weldwood Contact Cement for doing your vinyl work, that **** sucks. Use 3M super 77...not 80 or 90...77 and your nightmares will go away.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So movig on, I'll be doing the rear fill pods now. This was a little bit challenging for me, simply because my original plans got squashed because of the lack of depth behind the trims. I thought that I would have a few inches behind the trims, and thus would only have minimal lift on the speaker on the outside of the trim. Then I looked and measured again, and of course I bought the smallest speaker WITH THE BIGGEST F-ING magnet! So that caused some problems. I was only able to sink the speaker in about 1 1/2" That leaves about 2 above the trim. Anyway, on to pics! 

So here's what's going in.


This is where it's going.


The build.......

After about an hour, maybe not that long, of trying to place and figure out what's going to work, and what's not and improvising, this is where I decided it was best to go in. 




Speaker in temporarily






both sides.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The I used some of that laminate trim for the surround on the pods. That way later I can build some grills to go in and flush mount them. I forget where I aquired this idea from, but I extend thanks to anyone who has done this that I might have gotten it from. Great idea and super easy to use.







Then I forgot to take pics of this, but I attached it by using hot glue to stick it to the trim. Then I pre drilled some holes and screwed them in from the back side of the trim. 

Here it is as a test install. 








covered and ready for resin.






continued......


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Still covering.....




Resin and other materials.....


This is two coats on.


Every worker has to have a supervisor. Last time it was my 4 year old, this time it's my 2 year old. MAN I LOVE MY GIRLS!!!!! 




Third and fourth coats and ready for pad and vinyl


Everything padded, even the one I had to fix and ready to get dressed up!! 




So from here is where I gave an update last night. I won't go over it again, but you can re read it if you'd like. It was before I started posting pics the latest time. 

I'll figure out a solution and post as I get more pics up. But I felt it was a pretty productive weekend. FINALLY!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

MaXaZoR said:


> Yoooo man...ditch the Dap Weldwood Contact Cement for doing your vinyl work, that **** sucks. Use 3M super 77...not 80 or 90...77 and your nightmares will go away.


I am getting the gist of that. But I thought everyone here was like waaayyyy against any of the spray can stuff. 3M super 77 I've used before, but not on anything that gets direct sun or crazy heat exposure. What are your thoughts about it holding up to the heat. I mean these things are going to be sitting in the sun or get the most heat due to being next to the windshild and back windows. I'm willing to try anything I just don't wanna have to be redoing these things every couple months because they keep falling.


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## MaXaZoR (Apr 1, 2007)

Well that how I wrap all my panels...if need I use staples, but trust me it will be wayy better than DAP. I have a whole unused can after that little trial and error.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well I guess it can't hurt to go with it. I'll give it a try this week and see what happens. 

Thanks!


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Scooter, try your local upholstery place to see if you can find Genco in the orange bottle. It's amazing and was recommended by my upholstery guy. He is NOT a fan of 3M spray products and anything he says is the bible to me. The stuff is amazingly strong. I wrapped door pods with zero wrinkles creases or seams.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

genco...huh?....thanx inj!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'll do some checking around for that. Is it a spary or something that gets spread on?


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

It's a spray. Here's a pic of the can. 










Use the typical method for spray adhesive... lay on both surfaces, let it tack up and stick it together. Be sure of where you want to put it though, because it doesn't enjoy comin apart.

This is a quick shot of the door pod I wrapped. For complex curves be sure to use a heat gun a lot of stretching and staples.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nice work. Ok. Where can I get this from. Oh I think you said just an upholstery shop huh. What about a place like JoAnn Fabrics or something?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I did two of the trims tonight and I think the pad was just a bad idea. I got the vinyl to stick well enough but I'm not sure what kind of longevity it'll give me. I think what I need to do is sand some and re filler it. I'm just really worried about cracking again in the front. Getting frustrated with this part. 

That's all for tonight. Gotta play ball tonight. Maybe more tomorrow night.


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## InjunV18 (Jun 16, 2008)

Give em a call and see if you have a local supplier. If not you can order direct from them, it's a little pricey at $9 a can but very much worth it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Do you have a number or a website I can look on or call? I was trying to google it but I can't find anything. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

InjunV18 said:


> Give em a call and see if you have a local supplier. If not you can order direct from them, it's a little pricey at $9 a can but very much worth it.


thanx inj for the info.
9$ is not much considering it sticks like mad.. a can of 3m super90 is 14$cad..and it doesnt always come out a winner.
and i had the worst of luck with super 77. [not trying to contradict maxasor....your ride rocks..].
i will definatly give this shtuff a try.

sorry for the intrusion on your thread,scoot


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> thanx inj for the info.
> 9$ is not much considering it sticks like mad.. a can of 3m super90 is 14$cad..and it doesnt always come out a winner.
> and i had the worst of luck with super 77. [not trying to contradict maxasor....your ride rocks..].
> i will definatly give this shtuff a try.
> ...


Yea I tried this other 3m stuff I found last night, it was 20.00 for the freaking can. So 9.00 would've gotten me two. It worked for the most part but I'm not happy with it. 

I think I'm going to just refinish them and go without the foam. This is driving me nuts. I'm going to go to the uphulstery shop around the corner from my house today though and see what they say. I wanna be done with this project so badly so I can move on and the vinyl is hangin me up. 

GRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so just as an update, I think I'm in good shape. I went to my local upholstery shop yesterday and talked to them about the Gevco glue. They didn't have it and didn't know anyone who did. I called a couple places and all of them are swearing by, and I know not eveyone is thrilled about 3m products, but they swear by this orange foam spray adhesive by 3M. It's a black and orange can. It's a spray adhesive the foams when you apply it to something. Not a lot but a little, I'm assuming it's the chemicals reacting. 

Anyway, I did a couple of test applications last night to see what it would do, and OMG  it works great!!! I'll let everyone else be their own judge but I had great success with my samples, and I'm going to do the last two pillars tonight. I'm very excited about this. 

So I should have the last two pillars wrapped tonight, then I'll wire them up and load them. I still have to make grills too. But they are in the finishing stages I would say after tonight. 

Then I think what I'm going to do is switch up a little bit and install the radio, stalite unit, monitors, and brain. I don't think I'm going to install the H701 yet, but we'll see. I still have to get the door pods done for the SLS's and I don't think I wanna do the processor till I get those done. 

That's all for now. Have a good day all!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Alright I made some progress today. Not much but I did make progress. 

I got all my trims wrapped in vinyl. Not extatic about the way they came out but I'm tired of messing with it and I'll see what happens with them in the elements. 

So I finished those and I wired up one of the rear fill speakers and aside from grills it's ready to install. 

As to grills I still have to make them for the other three trims. If you will recall I only had one done. So I still have to do those but that shouldn't be tough. I also have a little wiring to do for the second rear fill and the other front apillar. Once those are done the front pillars will go in and then I'll do some more work on the rear. 

I have the rear deck out now and have some big plans for the rear deck trim. I'll go over those another time. For now, everyone can just think about it. I know I am. 

I also have to seal off the rear deck so the trims cannot go back on until that's done. And the rear deck trim has to go in before the side trims with the speakers can go back in. That's all for now.

Pics tomorrow.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so as promised here are the pics of what I've gotten done this weekend. I finished the apillars. No pics of the second one alone, but I got a group shot of all of them. Really you seen one side you've pretty much seen them both. If not, grab a mirror and have at it. Ok moving on.

I also finished the rear pillars. These are ok. I think I have a problem with not being patient. For whatever reason, I get so amped up when I'm doing the vinyl that I just start working at warp speed and I think that causes problems. But in this particular time, I think I'll just go with it. 

Here are the rear pillars.

First the supervisor giving me crap for taking so long. HEY GET OFF MY BACK!!


So last time I was in the wrapping stages or just getting ready to wrap them. 
Here they are wrapped finally.


Wiring them up. I did the same steps as I did in the front. I soldered the connectors, techflexed, heat shrink, labled, and clear heatshrink over top. Then techflex on the main line. 






I used some weather stripping for the surround before I screwed down the speaker. This kind of sealed it. Not that it matters, cause it's not a sealed pod. But whatever. 






Then of course I had to make a grill cover for them. For this I got a little creative. I went to the local Home Depot and took my pod in with me. I tried to find something that was already a circle and what I found was a 3" coupler. Not and ABS Pipe but a coupler was exactly, with a little grinding down with the dremel, my favorite too, it would be perfect. So that's what I did. Grill's for about $.75 each.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Test fit.


It didn't fit exactly, because of the screws, but I took care of that and it worked great.






Took it off to make it easier to see.


Now to cover.




And install.


And the twins next to eachother. Wired up and ready to go!


So you can actually see the speakers through the cloth but they are also not black speakers. They are a copper color which is glossy or shiny whatever you wanna call it. If it bothers me too much, which I can't really see happening, then I'll throw another layer of grill cloth on and call it good.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

honestly, man, you have some great ideas and great work, imo.

wish I had the means right now to start some fiberglass projects. I almost have to stay away from your thread because it makes me want to start doing my own install again...

thumbs up... x2.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

honestly, man, you have some great ideas and great work, imo.

wish I had the means right now to start some fiberglass projects. I almost have to stay away from your thread because it makes me want to start doing my own install again...

thumbs up... x2.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here is everyone in their group photo. Overall I'm pleased with the way these have turned out, considering this is the first time I've attempted anything to this magnitude. I'm sure there are some things that will eat away at me with the asthetics of them but I'll either do them over or learn to live with it. 



So with all this stuff going on, I've also been trying to figure out what to do with the rear deck. I'm planning to build the enclosure or baffle for the subs, whenever they get done, and that's going to be a project all on it's own. But while I have these trims out and the rear deck out I've been doing some thinking. I can't put the rear fill pod's back in until the rear deck gets sealed and deadened. So that's going to be a while. Also I've had serious issues with the rear deck rattleing against the back window with the bass. That was with 2 12's and on not nearly as much power as I have to run. So there's that to address. 

So with all that in mind here's a little teaser on my brainstorm and what I am seriously considering doing. 


From left to right. The first is a Rockford Fosgate P4004 which will run my mid range and tweeters. Then a Rockford Fosgate P2002 that will run the rear fill. Finally a Rockford Fosgate P4004 bridged to run the front midbass in the doors. 

I think maybe I'll be putting down a baffle, maybe 1/2" MDF and then I'll build a frame to house each amp. Then I'll glass the whole thing and create doors that will lift from the top of each amp, that is in an "L" shape so the front of the amps can be exposed for adjusting. Then I'll cover it in the same vinyl as the rest of the pods. 

Under the baffle I'll be putting some closed cell foam and more deadener, so there won't be any issues with noise. I'll put in a fan as well but I don't know about that since they'll be in the cab, and in the summer, which is when we'll get the most heat, the A/C will be on the majority of the time.

Here now are my issues with this. Actually I only really have two issues. One is running lines through and have it look good and hidden. Not sure how this will be done yet. I guess I could build a channel in there some where to house everything or something. I'll have to think about that some more. The second is making sure that the lines will be sealed off and won't let any air through, since this will be an IB application. 

The other thought is in the area where the subs will be I'll put the sub amp. My subs will be facing, dust cap to the trunk, then covered with a steel mesh and grill cloth covered grill. I'll essentially build a false floor in the sub enclosure and that way it will be out of the way and essintially remove all amps from the trunk space all together. 

I also have new thoughts on where I'm going to put the battery, distro blocks, and power strips. But that's gonna have to wait. I think my brain is on overload already.:z: But I'm getting close! I still have to figure out where I'm going to house the H701, and the Headrest monitor brain. They're about the same size and I don't really wanna put them under the seats. I want them to be put away with everything else. 

That's about all for now. 

Suggestions and comments, as always, are welcome.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> honestly, man, you have some great ideas and great work, imo.
> 
> wish I had the means right now to start some fiberglass projects. I almost have to stay away from your thread because it makes me want to start doing my own install again...
> 
> thumbs up... x2.


OH **** THEN DON'T READ THE NEXT ONE!!! Don't wanna get you in trouble!! How's the house comming?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

ARGH! you beat me to it,scoot...i was at h-d on friday with my tweeter ring ,measuring abs couplings[no luck] to make tweeter pods with....and i noticed that 4'' abs couplings have an inner dia. of 4.5''[for my newly aquired hat L4's that are in a post office facility somewhere between here and california] looks super,keep it up man...


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Here is everyone in their group photo. Overall I'm pleased with the way these have turned out, considering this is the first time I've attempted anything to this magnitude. I'm sure there are some things that will eat away at me with the asthetics of them but I'll either do them over or learn to live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


scoot, just an idea,but , you may want to mount them behind the rear seat back, off to the sides...depending if your i-b installation permits it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks. I actually was just going to cut them out of 1/4" hard board, that I had on site, but I hate doing that. Using the hole saws and that sort of thing. Never quite turns out right. So I had to go anyway, to get some sheets of aluminum to seal off the rear deck and thought, "what the hell"! Mine were just for the grills thought. I didn't even think about doing it for the actual pod. That's a good idea too!

Just for the curious minds, I'm going to switch gears a little bit and start on the head unit and the head rest screens. I might have mentioned it before, but I'm going to Reno in two weeks and I wanna have that stuff in by then. Little bit at a time this week and next, of course this weekend is out cause I'm going to Vegas for 2 Dave Matthews Band concerts, but I'll live with the sacrifices!!:laugh: But between this week and next I should be able to them in and the pillar pods in and tuned a little bit by then. 

It'll be nice to have that amount of time, 2 hours, to listen and mess with it. Sorry to ramble. I'm in a way excited mood right now! epper:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> scoot, just an idea,but , you may want to mount them behind the rear seat back, off to the sides...depending if your i-b installation permits it.


Ok I'm listening!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

for my tweeter pods, i will look into 1.5'' pvc caps ,next time i am at h-d in the usa...h-d canada has no pvc at all...bummer ...only abs
well that isnt too far away since i am flying into l-a tomorrow. my hotel room will be turned into a diy fab shop..lol


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

your amps ,mounted on the rear deck idea has got me thinking.......


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Why do you think it wouldn't be a good idea there? Or do you?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just as something else to throw out there. I was trying to think about how to do the amps in the rear deck. My only delimma I can come up with, that seems major anyway, is where would I ground them too. The grounds on the amps are supposed to be no more than 18 inches correct? So anyone got suggestions on this? Thanks!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Just as something else to throw out there. I was trying to think about how to do the amps in the rear deck. My only delimma I can come up with, that seems major anyway, is where would I ground them too. The grounds on the amps are supposed to be no more than 18 inches correct? So anyone got suggestions on this? Thanks!


 i like the idea of the amps ,back there....there is a ground point right below the seat back,between it and the lower seat cushion.....the seat back mounting bolt is the groundpoint of choice for many installers


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

yea and that's where my stuff is grounded at now. But what I'm concerned about is the distance from there to the ground distro block, which will be in the enclosure I think, and the distance from the distro block to the amps. I think we're looking at about 30 inches or so. 

How does that work if your grounds are too long? Do you have noise issues or what?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> yea and that's where my stuff is grounded at now. But what I'm concerned about is the distance from there to the ground distro block, which will be in the enclosure I think, and the distance from the distro block to the amps. I think we're looking at about 30 inches or so.
> 
> How does that work if your grounds are too long? Do you have noise issues or what?


it is always good to keep your ground as short as possible,but 30 inches is not long at all...just make sure it is the same guage or bigger than your +12v.

you californians have such great weather.... i put on some shorts as soon as i got off the flight


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well not always. It's been rainy for like 4 days now. But yeah I agree. Where did you come into?

Ok I'm gonna figure out the grounds. I'm using 1/0 ga to the block for the power and I havn't decided on 1/0 ga or 4 ga to the amps from the block yet. I have the reducers so I may do that. Which in turn means I'll do the same for the grounds. So with all that being said, I am intending on using the same sizes for both power and ground.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Well not always. It's been rainy for like 4 days now. But yeah I agree. Where did you come into?


i am presently in colton,ca.for the next 10 days, but next time i am in sacramento or frisco,i'll let ya know... it'd be cool to hook up


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so no progress but I finally got my baby cleaned and I thought I'd show what all this work is going into.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

good job.... ilike the wheels!

any news from AE?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks! Not yet, and thanks again! I just looked at your thread and saw that your's are ready. Now you've gotten me all excited cause I know I'm not far behind you! I'm gonna have to get my ass movin!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's my list of things that I'm doing by the way. I'll post with progress as I go. 

Tweeters and Mid Ranges in Apillars, cover in vynil. *-------------> DONE*
Mid Bass in Doors, new fiberglass pods and vinyl. 
Seal and deaden rear deck
Build rear deck amp rack to house the 2 - P4004's and the P2002.
Rear Fill speakers in rear side trims, pods. Cover in vinyl. *------------------> DONE*
Build up IB Wall for subs. Including seal off behind seat and everywhere air might flow through. 
Build Battery and power rack in sub enclosure.
Convert trunk lid to gas shocks.
Build Amp rack in sub enclosure for P1000-1bd 
Run power lines from front to back. 1/0 Ga. to be run in carlon line under car. 
If money comes in, replace optima Battery with Kintetik 1400.
Install H/O Alternator. (Not sure on this yet.)
Install Head Unit, PAC TR7, PAC-SWJAX, Sirius Unit, Sirius Transmitter.
Install Rear head rest monitors, and brain.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yea I just check for sure and I haven't gotten anything from AE yet. But that's fine, I'm trying not to get my hopes up. Glad for your good news though Stinky!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

ib 15's were scheduled for mid may delivery...ur stuff may be up for production very soon.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

DAMN IT!!!! I got all excited cause AE emailed me today with a private message. I went in and opened it and it was some stupid advertisement! Oh well. 

Stinkey did you get your subs yet? You said you got a notice just wondered if you got em yet.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> DAMN IT!!!! I got all excited cause AE emailed me today with a private message. I went in and opened it and it was some stupid advertisement! Oh well.
> 
> Stinkey did you get your subs yet? You said you got a notice just wondered if you got em yet.


 they were shipped ups ground...it will take a few days...
i had them sent to our shop,cause i'm still in so-cal for a few weeks and then i'm off to hawaii....work....

it all sounds exciting,but it gets old after the years.
but there is light at the end of the tunnel....10 days off to work on my car when i get back!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

i got fooled by those stupid ads too, last month...i know the feeling,lol


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## bmwproboi05 (May 3, 2009)

Dang dude. How much did that set you back?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok Stinkey, I just got a response on AE forum, that John is supposed to get a new batch of cones in on the 18th. My subs should be in that batch. So I'll just calm down for now. Save some energy for the jumping up and down when i get that email saying they've shipped!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I went on a little trip this weekend to Vegas! VIVA LOS VEGAS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh my god what a great time I had. I went with my wife and my step father and stepbrother for a couple of Dave Matthews Band shows at the MGM. Man what a great time! Never seen a band that does so good live as DMB! I'm a groupie I admit it! I know a lot of people out there are not fans, but you gotta love good music, and DMB live is GREAT music! They're much better live then they are recorded. Not many bands are! Ok enough of that! 

So needless to say, I dind't do anything on the car this weekend, but I'm going to plan to do the head unit switch out, and install the front a pillars this week. Leaving for Reno on Friday night and I wanna see if I can have all that done by then. I have some ideas on the wiring, that should clean things up pretty well. Pics will be up soon!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I went on a little trip this weekend to Vegas! VIVA LOS VEGAS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh my god what a great time I had. I went with my wife and my step father and stepbrother for a couple of Dave Matthews Band shows at the MGM. Man what a great time! Never seen a band that does so good live as DMB! I'm a groupie I admit it! I know a lot of people out there are not fans, but you gotta love good music, and DMB live is GREAT music! They're much better live then they are recorded. Not many bands are! Ok enough of that!
> 
> So needless to say, I dind't do anything on the car this weekend, but I'm going to plan to do the head unit switch out, and install the front a pillars this week. Leaving for Reno on Friday night and I wanna see if I can have all that done by then. I have some ideas on the wiring, that should clean things up pretty well. Pics will be up soon!


h-u switch..from what to what?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I am currently running a Pioneer Avic-D3, and I'm going to an Alpine IVA-W505 and the H701 processor. But I'm not ready for the amp rack yet, which is most likely where the H701 is going, and i need a change in installation, so I'm going to switch out the head units and everything to get ready for it.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> I am currently running a Pioneer Avic-D3, and I'm going to an Alpine IVA-W505 and the H701 processor. But I'm not ready for the amp rack yet, which is most likely where the H701 is going, and i need a change in installation, so I'm going to switch out the head units and everything to get ready for it.


sweet

i was going for 7990+flip-up screen+dvd changer,but fund flow isnt up to speed yet. i can also get a [dream]9990+ screen for $2500bnib .....but my wife would just kill me.

one of the two scenarios may happen...if i get my bonuses and tax returns soon


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Not sure I know about that, but if it's $2500.00 my wife would kill me as well. Whew!!!! What is it?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

sorry ......the hu and screen from the last gen f1 status from alpine...like i said..dream...
it's all nice and all,but i think i will realistically get the alpine7990[older f1] screen+dvd[later] and the audison bit one.1.....i think i would get more than just the evil eye ,if i get the bnib f1 stuff...lol


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Wow! That's some serious stuff! I wouldn't know what to do with that stuff if I had it. I'm so not knowledgeable about the processors and stuff. I only picked up the H701 cause it was a good price and figured I would be able to get it set up easy enough with some help from here. I'm quite nervous about that as it is! WOW!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

stinky06 said:


> sorry ......the hu and screen from the last gen f1 status from alpine...like i said..dream...
> it's all nice and all,but i think i will realistically get the alpine7990[older f1] screen+dvd[later] and the audison bit one.1.....i think i would get more than just the evil eye ,if i get the bnib f1 stuff...lol


fwiw, you'll need a dvd changer if you go with the 7990. the 7990 doesn't play DVDs, so you'll have to have some way to play them through your screen.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Wussup Erin! How's things going on your side of the country? How's the house commin along? Done building on your car yet?


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Car build is on hold until mid-June because of house and vacation. I leave for Europe Friday and won’t be back until May 30th. Then we get rolling on the house again. Should be moved in by 2nd/3rd week of June.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Congrats. Have pics of the house yet? I'd love to see it.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

bikinpunk said:


> fwiw, you'll need a dvd changer if you go with the 7990. the 7990 doesn't play DVDs, so you'll have to have some way to play them through your screen.


i was aware of that, thanx...video is really a secondary objective,but i do like having dvd as a storage media for music. time/money will tell... for now the w205 will have to do


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The W205 is not a bad substitute huh! 

Ok well I'm going to try and get my head unit, components (i.e Pac TR-7, Pac SW controls,) head rest monitors, monitor brain, a pillars, and a second amp installed tonight. Don't know that, that's all gonna happen but we'll see what goes on. If I get crazy and time permits I may throw in the H701 and program it tomorrow night or something. Don't think I'll even attempt that but my mind is going nuts with all that I have to do and want to do. We'll see what happens!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Congrats. Have pics of the house yet? I'd love to see it.


Yea, I have a few that can be seen here…
Our House pictures by bikinpunk - Photobucket



stinky06 said:


> i was aware of that, thanx...video is really a secondary objective,but i do like having dvd as a storage media for music. time/money will tell... for now the w205 will have to do


I thought about doing the same thing, at one point. Josh (maxorz) has a setup like that. You can talk to him if you have questions on what he is running. 



scooter99 said:


> The W205 is not a bad substitute huh!
> 
> Ok well I'm going to try and get my head unit, components (i.e Pac TR-7, Pac SW controls,) head rest monitors, monitor brain, a pillars, and a second amp installed tonight. Don't know that, that's all gonna happen but we'll see what goes on. If I get crazy and time permits I may throw in the H701 and program it tomorrow night or something. Don't think I'll even attempt that but my mind is going nuts with all that I have to do and want to do. We'll see what happens!


205 is a nice unit. 505 is a much cleaner/sleeker unit, imo. Also does ipod video which some people really like. I just like the GUI much more, personally.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

GUI? I'm sure I'm going to know this after you say it, but what is it! NICE FREAKIN HOUSE BY THE WAY, or sorry BTW! 

Did you do it, or did you hire a contractor? I thought you said once but I don't remember. Can't seem to remember yesterday anymore!  Looks really good though. I really really like the big tiles! Is that 16 x 16" in the halls and kitchen, and I think I saw some 13 x 13 slate in there too? Well whatever it is, it looks great! How do you like it? Since you'll be living in it and paying for it and all!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> GUI? I'm sure I'm going to know this after you say it, but what is it! NICE FREAKIN HOUSE BY THE WAY, or sorry BTW!
> 
> Did you do it, or did you hire a contractor? I thought you said once but I don't remember. Can't seem to remember yesterday anymore!  Looks really good though. I really really like the big tiles! Is that 16 x 16" in the halls and kitchen, and I think I saw some 13 x 13 slate in there too? Well whatever it is, it looks great! How do you like it? Since you'll be living in it and paying for it and all!



Gui = graphic user interface. = pretty. 

My father-in-law is my contractor. We did A LOT ourselves. Definitely have learned a lot so far. I’ve learned that I’d rather lay tile than paint… :/

20x20”. There is 13x13” in the foyer, and yep, that’s slate. We love that stuff. 
Can’t wait to be finished. Not looking forward to the fence and sprinkler and sod. 

But, it will be great once we move in!


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## Problemhouston (Apr 2, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> GUI? I'm sure I'm going to know this after you say it, but what is it! NICE FREAKIN HOUSE BY THE WAY, or sorry BTW!


He beat me to it. And DAMN THAT IS A NICE HOUSE...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I got it! 

Nice work man! Really! It looks really good. BTW, I know exactly what you mean by wanting to tile more than paint. I HATE painting!!! But it has to be done and it looks so damn good when you're finished!!! Keep up the good work! 

The outside stuff is pretty easy, compared to the tedious and detailed stuff that you have to deal with inside! Grass, sprinklers, and other landscaping are easy! Especially doing sod! Instant gratification, it's well worth it!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

very nice house!!! gotta luv that garage space.... congrats!
my previous house had a huge garage....i practically lived in there. my next house will have the manditory diy space...i cannot live w/o it anymore.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so it's 1245 am here in cali and I just came in from the garage. I got off early today and I've been working on my car since about 1pm. Wow, I just got an official ass whoopin! By the hands of the "505". Man it's kickin my ass. Of course it's not just that. I'm re wireing some things, i'm installing the sirius units, headrest monitors with the brain, pac equipment, and I created a new wire block for everything, in the hopes to make less chaos behind the head unit. I might have bitten off more than I can chew at this point.

Tomorrow I'll take the truck to work cause I have my car still half torn apart. Then it'll be a long night of putting back together and trying to set everything up! I'm leaving at about 3pm on friday for reno. :anxious:

So now I have to hook up a couple wires to the head unit, figure out the damn ipod set up (suggestions anyone on how it works and what to plug in), hook up the sirius units. I actually got lucky with this one, I think, cause the old unit I had for the pioneer set up has the same antenna insert as this one. Didn't have to re run that line! Whew. I still have to plug in the pac equipment, wires are run for those already, and then program those. I have to hook up the headrest monitor brain, lines run for that, pretty much. I have to install one more amp, then the pillars. GONNA BE A LONG FREAKING NIGHT!:worried: I see a whole day off in my future on friday! 

I'm goin to bed!! Pics soon, but most likely not till monday! 

Night!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

burnin the midnight oil...eh?
funny how time flys when you are diy-ing


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Burning it, **** I ran out of it!!! I'm dying today, that's not a typo! I wish I was DIYing today! That's all I can think about. So I'm going to get most everything, if not everythign done tonight and then set it up tomorrow. I am going to take tomorrow off all day. That way I can do the set up and then pack for the weekend! Hopefully it all comes together, I'm having my worries and doubts right now!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here I am sitting at the computer at 5:56am California time, and I've been up now for 24 straight hours. Why you ask? That's a good gawd damn question. I have issues I think! Well I know! 

So I got everything install with exception of the front apillars. 

Here's my standing problem. I have the TR-7 hooked up and I'm getting no picture. It says on the screens "no picture for your safety" or something like that, which tells me the the TR-7 isn't working. I did everything the directions said to. I don't know. Then the other issue I'm having and have had in the past, is the damn Pac steering wheel controls don't work! Again, did everything the directions say to, then I get to the programming part and it just wont do it. I'm sure it's operator error but I know i'm not an idiot and it's frustrating. So anyway, other than that it's all good. I have to figure out, of course how everything works, and set the amps and adjust and all that, but for now it's good. I have to fix that picture problem though. My girls will go nuts with no movies on the way home!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm waiting for Pac-audio.com to open to talk to them about the tr7, but I'm thinking that I cannot hook up two devices to one unit. Not sure abou this but it's just my thinking. Anyone have eperience with this or any suggestions? I'd like to try and get this working before I leave tonight for reno, with a car full of people including 2 teenagers, and I've already told them I would have dvd capabilities! 10 more minutes! We'll see!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I got off the phone with PAC and they said a couple things. First he said that I didn't need teh TR7 because of something, I don't remember exactly. He also suggested that I simply ground the single wire for the foot brake and that sould work for the headrests. We'll see!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok well I got the stuff done, with exception of the mid bass pods, that I wanted to. But I've very discouraged. Things did not go to plan with the pods. The rear pods turned out ok, other than the imperfections of the vinyl. But I can live with that I think. After driving around with them all weekend I had forgotten all about them. And the people who go in the car, who knew that I've been doing this projecet, gave me complaments on them. SO I think those will just stay the way they are. 

Here in lies my discouragement though. The front pods are crap. They are almost a complete failure in my opinion. I stare at them every time I'm in the car, of coarse, so the more that I look at them the more pissed I get about them. I cannot get them to sit in the window area completely, which is causing gaps everywhere that are very noticeable, even to the untrained eye. Had to explain that one all weekend long. The vinyl was cut short on the passenger side panel, so where it meets the dash it has a void in it. Looks like **** and looks like amature hour pretty much. While I know I am an amature at this stuff I expect better results out of myself. SO I'm very upset about that one, especially with how muc work I sunk into building them. I'm thinking honestly about getting new one's and starting the whole project over again. AGGGGHHHH!!! 

Lastly I got the monitors in the head rests, and everything hooked up (h/u, sirius tuner, pac equipment, ipod cables, etc.) The monitors don't fit right. I had to install a block of wood in the headrest to screw the housing to for the monitors. Alpine's montors are so thin, and there is absolutely no play behind the monitor, once in the housing. I originally ziptied the housing just like I did the older ones but I could not get the monitor to click into the housing. So I had to go another direction. But they do not fit the way I want them to so I'll have to do one of a couple of things. Either I'm going to have to spend the 150.00 (75.00 each) for new headrest that match, or I'll strip the headrests, fix the problem the right way, and spend 75.00 to have my local upholstery shop re cover them. I would but I don't have that kind of confidence right now. Worth it to me to have the pros do it. So there's that issue.

Next issue is the connection from the W505 and the brain for the monitors. There was supposed to be, unless I missunderstood, a way to turn on and off the monitors from the head unit. I'm able to turn them on when the dvd is selected, but I'm not able to turn them off. So when the movie is done or whatever, and I change it to sirius or something other than a video, the screens go blue and do not turn off. I haven't contacted alpine tech support yet, but I plan on doing that in my spare time :laugh::lol:

There was also another issue that I fixed, which was the reason for all the issues I had figuring out the W505 this weekend. I counldn't get the setup selections to come up, other than the audio selection. I had time yesterday to take it apart and I figured out that the TR7 was hooked up wrong. The foot brake and hand brake wires were backwards. 

This is exactly why you should not do car audio throughout an entire night. Don't cram, take your time and do it right. This was the problem with everything, pretty much, this weekend. I had no video, no way to adjust settings, and it was just irritating. I had to do math the entire weekend cause of how much the clock was off. Anyway, I fixed that and I now have everything else fixed. 

The other thing I have yet to figure out, is the PAC SWI-JACKS. I cannot get that thing programmed for crap. I called PAC and they gave me a couple of tips, but I have not been able to try them yet. I'll do that tonight or sometime this week. Thankfully, the one thing I did do correctly was put that and the TR7 in a place where I didn't have to completely remove the center console to get them. That will make programming or checking or whatever easier to get to in the future. 

I also go the amps hooked up. While not the way I wanted to do it, it was 2 am and I needed to get them in. I have a pretty good engine whine but it's no worse than it was with the single amp before. I think, truely, it's the ****ty cheapo RF RCA's that I have in there. MAN I CAN'T WAIT TO GET THE PROCESSOR IN AND DO THE Ai-NET CABLE!!! I was able to turn the amp down a bit and get rid of most of it but I can still hear it. I just have to remember that things are temporary for now!

So my plan for now is to just clean up the garage and leave things alone for a couple weeks and get things handled at home. Then I'll start to take some time to build the amp rack for the rear window, I'm going to add fans to that by the way, and then I'll build the IB and my subs should be in by then. So I still have several things that need to be done, but it'll all wait for a while. 

I know it's a long read and I'm sorry. I'm at work now and I'm having to get started doing stuff here, but I'll post pictures at some point today to reel all this nonsence in. I promise!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

keep it up,...at least some things are working and you havent seen any puffs of smoke[knock on wood, mdf or fiberglass]..i havent had any sound since i sold my lrx 6.9 amp in january. i actually pulled it out when it was -20 outside. 
i have a delivery confirmation ... my AE subs were received at our shop!!!...but my my fat-azz is in san diego


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> keep it up,...at least some things are working and you havent seen any puffs of smoke[knock on wood, mdf or fiberglass]..i havent had any sound since i sold my lrx 6.9 amp in january. i actually pulled it out when it was -20 outside.
> i have a delivery confirmation ... my AE subs were received at our shop!!!...but my my fat-azz is in san diego


That's a very positive outlook and I appreciate that! Congrats on the subs! Can't wait till you get them in!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok pics as promised! 

Ok out with the old:




Side by side
[

In with the new:






Wireing harness I made for everything up front. I just took a piece of 3/4 mdf and used some cardboard for the template. I then cut out the mdf according to the template and painted it black. Then I coverd it with some black grill cloth, not sure why cause it's not seen, but I did! Then I used a strip terminal and screwed it to a tab that just held a couple of wires which I relocated to make room for this:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

This is the tab where the wire block will get screwed too!


There was still plenty of cluster F wiring. That's almost impossible, I think, to get rid of. Although I know I can try harder and fix this. But I'll still post it! 

Old sirius unit:


New one was relocated to the spot where the old bluetooth unit was, under the center console.

Old bluetooth unit:


Old wiring, I cleaned this up a little bit. Still could use some cleaning thought. I did not take a picture of the new wiring. I will another time.


Old PAC-SWIPS, which I could never get to progam correctly. I think I just suck at this one. Sigh!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And here are the old monitors:


I guess I should've taken pictures of them both side by side out of the headrests but I didn't think about it until now! 

Here are the new beauties, although not in the way I would like them to be! Very clear though! 100x's better than the old ones!!






Sometime in the near future I'll take a picture of them in the car and turned on! Much better than the old one's, again! 

Here are the amps. I had one of these in already, if you will recall, and it was surrounded by the RF passive crossovers. These have been removed and the second amp installed. First one moved over.







Here are the Rear Fill Pillars:
Driver Side


Passenger Side




Now you will notice on the picture from the front, the last one, that there is a little gap at the top. That is because the last pin, the break away pin for the airbag, has not been installed yet. Once it is installed it will tighten that up and look better. I still have to pull these pods off when I do the rear deck amp rack and I didn't wanna have to replace those pins again. But it's on there pretty tight now. I drove all weekend with them installed like this and they didn't come off or move or anything. 

I did not take pics of the front a pillars. I don't know if it was because I was in a hurry or because I was too frustrated with how they turned out or what the deal was. But I didn't. I'll try to do that and post those tonight, along with anything else I missed. 

Looking forward to feed back. Thanks!


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## Beyond Silence (May 11, 2009)

pics are not working...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I think I have it fixed now! let me know if there are any other problems. Not sure why that didn't work other than I put the pics up and then I moved them into folders on Photobucket, so that might have done it. Otherwise I don't know. Should be fine now! 

As an update, I talked to Alpine tech support today and they said that as far as sending a signal to the rear monitors on and off that can be done via the 505. However, to power them on and off, it can't. So I have to put in a switch to do that. The remote wires would still be hooked up but I would do a switch in the power wire to the monitor brain and that will do the power on and off. Don't know if anyone knows different but that's what I have for now. Kind of a bummer since that was one of the reasons why I did the monitor switch outs. Hopefully I don't have to turn them on and off manually, that they can just go from the switch. We'll have to wait and see what happens. 

So I'm less discouraged now then I was about things before. Still disapointed by the way the front pillars turned out though. Not sure what to do about that. Makes me a little hesitant to do the door pods, but I'm gonna try it anyway!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's the latest update on the "TO DO LIST"!

Tweeters and Mid Ranges in Apillars, cover in vynil. *-------------> DONE BUT NOT HAPPY* 
Mid Bass in Doors, new fiberglass pods and vinyl. 
Seal and deaden rear deck
Build rear deck amp rack to house the 2 - P4004's and the P2002.
Rear Fill speakers in rear side trims, pods. Cover in vinyl. *------------------> DONE*
Build up IB Wall for subs. Including seal off behind seat and everywhere air might flow through. 
Build Battery and power rack in sub enclosure.
Convert trunk lid to gas shocks.
Build Amp rack in sub enclosure for P1000-1bd 
Run power lines from front to back. 1/0 Ga. to be run in carlon line under car. 
If money comes in, replace optima Battery with Kintetik 1400.
Install H/O Alternator. (Not sure on this yet.)
Install Head Unit, PAC TR7, PAC-SWJAX, Sirius Unit, Sirius Transmitter. *------------------------> DONE, but still need to program S/W Controls*
Install Rear head rest monitors, and brain. *---------------------> DONE BUT NOT SATISFIED*


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok I think I have it fixed now! let me know if there are any other problems. Not sure why that didn't work other than I put the pics up and then I moved them into folders on Photobucket, so that might have done it. Otherwise I don't know. Should be fine now!
> 
> As an update, I talked to Alpine tech support today and they said that as far as sending a signal to the rear monitors on and off that can be done via the 505. However, to power them on and off, it can't. So I have to put in a switch to do that. The remote wires would still be hooked up but I would do a switch in the power wire to the monitor brain and that will do the power on and off. Don't know if anyone knows different but that's what I have for now. Kind of a bummer since that was one of the reasons why I did the monitor switch outs. Hopefully I don't have to turn them on and off manually, that they can just go from the switch. We'll have to wait and see what happens.
> 
> So I'm less discouraged now then I was about things before. Still disapointed by the way the front pillars turned out though. Not sure what to do about that. Makes me a little hesitant to do the door pods, but I'm gonna try it anyway!


 hey scoot, what are ya planning to put in your front doors? if you are sticking in 6.5 inch drivers, it is not difficult at all. but you may want to remove the stock grill in the doors and replace it with mesh grill , cause they tend to muffle the driver.
are your pillars still giving you head aches [eg; cracks,ect] or is it because you are focusing on the imperfections? cause last time i checked you had done a really good job...unless i missed somethin..


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm planning on , well not planning on, I am going with Peerless SLS 8's. I have them already and I have the plans in my head already. I just have to do it. I have all the materials. Although I need to get to the upholstery shop and order more vinyl cause I blew threw what I had on all these pillars. 

My problem with the pillars are that I can't get them to slide all the way in and the pins snap in, and I have issues with the drivers side cause of the way the dash comes up. I thought that I had accounted for that but I guess I didn't enough. That's not that big a deal, I really just ahve to re do the grill for it and it'll be fine. But if I can't get them to go all the way in, then there's a problem. The last part is that there is a spot on the passenger side that I cut the vinyl short and it's very visable. But at the same time it may not be if i could figure out why the DAMN THING WON'T GO ALL THE WAY IN!!!! It might just buy me some drop there and I would then probably just be able to live with that spot. 

The amount of drop I'm looking at is about a 1/4" and the spot where the vinyl is short is about that or less. So I think one would fix the other but I'm a little tired of it at the moment. So I'm taking a break on it and then I'll come back to it. My honest theory is that the speaker wires, cause they're so thick, are hindering them from dropping all the way in. If that's the case I'll have to figure out how to fix that but right now I don't know.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here is my latest thinking on my amp rack that I'm building, eventually, in the rear deck. I'm concerned with heat problems so I wanna put fans in to make sure my amps stay cool. I don't think it will be that big a deal but I wanna make sure everything is good. 

Here's my wonder full MS Paint Diagram of the amp rack and the fans with the air dirction. Any suggestions or will this work fine for my application or what? I'm open for suggestions and creative ideas. 

The rack will be, ultimately, mdf or ply on the bottom approx 1/2" or 3/8". then the frame will be mdf, most likely 1/2". Then there will be fiberglass to shape it on the outside of the frame. Over that will either be vinyl, in which case for the fans, i'll have to make sure to incorporate some tubes or something so that I can put in a grill cover so the air can pass through. Or the other option is carpet. I have vinyl on the pods right next to it so that's most likely the way I'll go. There will be a lid over these amps that lifts up for tuning and showing, if necessary. But I want to make it covered so that the heat is not directly beating on the amps through just grill cloth or something. 

Any questions beyond that, please ask.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)




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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

you wont need that many fans..+ remember the more fans ,the bigger the noize.
your cab is cooled by a/c,so will the amps...but if you use a wide squirrel cage fan to blow across the top of the amps+a/c air,you'll be fine> Orion Fans, Orion Computer Fans, Cooling Fans, Stereo Fans, Amplifier Coolong check-out the cross-axial model


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here are the pictures of the Apillars installed. I'll point out my disapointment issues!

This is what I was talking about, with the gaps. I've been thinking about all this and I'm thinking actually that it may be the speaker wire getting in the way. Cause if it drops another 1/4" then this will be able to go in all the way and the pins will hold it in. This will go away. Right now I beleive my solution lies in re arranging the speaker wires. I have them side by side right now and they should be front to back. 


This one shows, not only, the gap from the last picture but the grill that I have to adjust because of the dash. It's pretty crammed in there and I either have to rebuild the whole thing or just redo the grill. Easier to do the grill. 


This just shows the top sticking out, but again like the rear pillars, I did not put the break away pins on because it just wasn't fitting right and I wanted to make sure everything else was able to fit in correctly before I put that pin in. 


This is the passenger side a pillar. I'm not so upset about this one. I have the same issue as the other side, in not being able to get it to fit in there all the way and it's causing the same gap at the door. 


But it also has this in which I'm very unhappy about, but that's my own idiocrocy and lack of knowledge and taking my time. This is the gap at the bottom of the pillar. But again I think that if I can get them to drop in, that will solve this issue. 


So that's what I'm dealing with at the moment. Comments and constructive criticism is welcome!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> you wont need that many fans..+ remember the more fans ,the bigger the noize.
> your cab is cooled by a/c,so will the amps...but if you use a wide squirrel cage fan to blow across the top of the amps+a/c air,you'll be fine> Orion Fans, Orion Computer Fans, Cooling Fans, Stereo Fans, Amplifier Coolong check-out the cross-axial model


I actually have one of those fans already. I wasn't sure it was enough. Do I need a second one for pull action? So the whole push and pull thing that I hear people talk about in here? How would you suggest I do that? I'm going to have three chambers don't forget. I guess the other option would be that I could make it all one chamber and one lid. Then I would only need one I guess. The other thing I could do is make the lid semi perforated and that way the air can circulate? Ideas?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

IMO>>>i'd go with a single chamber,with a fan on each end,pusing in......and out through a perforated top panel. heat has a natural tendency to rise...why fight it?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's a good point!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I've figured out my latest issue if anyone can help me with this. It's the AM noise! On some stations but not all, when the car is on there is terrible static noise. Usually when I try to listen to the Giant's games. Anyway, I discovered tonight that when I turn off the car it's clear as can be. Is there anything that I can do to fix this?

And off of that note, you would think that with all the technology that we have now as a society, and with this whole push to go digital with everyone's televisions (which I think is another government ploy to cost us money, and bull **** might I add!) that we could make these AM stations clearer and more powerful. Or somehow extend the FM stations to take on the current AM stations and have them all on the FM frequency. Now I admit I don't know much about radio stations and frequency and all that stuff but really! We're making people who already have no money to go out and buy $1000.00 tvs so they can continue to watch tv, and yet I can get in a clear AM station to listen to a ball game. And at the same time if I was able to be at home I could see the wiskers on most of the ball players faces! I just don't get it. Just had to rant! Thanks for listening. 

Now on a separate note, back to the car. I'm considering, the more I look at my pillars and the car, taking off the vinyl and going with some kind of cloth. Not sure what, but it needs to be similar in look to grill cloth but thicker. It's just not meshing to me with the vinyl. I think it needs to be cloth. I think with the door pods I could get away with vinyl cause about 90% of the door is vinyl. And even though the original trims were plastic, the vinyl just isn't catching on for me. Just something I was running through my head today while I was driving. I'm also thinking in terms of the rear deck amp rack, in that I think that vinyl will get too hot sitting in the sun. I think that, considering that I have to figure out a way to vent the fans I'll be using, I'll have a mish mash of vinyl and cloth anyway. I may just use grill cloth for the rear, cause I have some that matches the interior now, and it will do a much better job IMO, in dispersing the heat! 

Does anyone have any suggestions?!?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

eeek...a.m. radio...lol. i cant stand it ...it'l make your expensive speakers bleed.
all kidding aside. i wish i could help but i have no clue ,on what the source of the noise is...does it increase with rpm?
>i agree to your goverment conspiracy theory,though.

go for the grill fabric, cause it looks better and solves your venting issue ....imo,vinyl only looks good on cat woman....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> eeek...a.m. radio...lol. i cant stand it ...it'l make your expensive speakers bleed.
> all kidding aside. i wish i could help but i have no clue ,on what the source of the noise is...does it increase with rpm?
> >i agree to your goverment conspiracy theory,though.
> 
> go for the grill fabric, cause it looks better and solves your venting issue ....imo,vinyl only looks good on cat woman....


:lol::lol: AH DUDE YOU'RE KILLIN ME!!! That's a great line!!! Looks beter on cat woman!!! :laugh::laugh:

Sigh, that's great! Always nice to start off the day with a good laugh. 

No it doesn't increase with rpm, which makes me think it's a constant source issue. But only constant with the car on. Wonder if one of those ground loop thingy's would take care of that? Never used one and I don't even really know what it does. It's not that great of a deal. I don't listen to the games much in my car, cause I have HD at home. But there is that once in a while occasion that I do, and that's when it's irritating! 

How's your trip going? When did you say you were going to be home? I'm sure you're counting the days, with those subs sitting there waiting for you! i'd be dying. Unfortunately I haven't even heard about mine yet. But I'm sure it'll be soon.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's the updated list. I've decided to change a couple of things. Just not happy with the way they're turning out. And with the rest of the plans they're just not going to go together well. So here's the new list. 

Rear Fill speakers in rear side trims, pods. Cover in vinyl. --------------------------------------------------------------------------DONE
Install Head Unit, PAC TR7, PAC-SWJAX, Sirius Unit, Sirius Transmitter. -------------------------------------------------------------DONE
Install Rear head rest monitors, and brain. -----------------------------------------------------------------------DONE, but not satisfied.
Tweeters and Mid Ranges in Apillars, cover in vynil. -----------------------------------------------------------------DONE, but not happy.

*5/22/09* - Re cover A-Pillars with different materials. Most likely grill cloth or carpet. 
*5/22/09 *- Re cover Rear Fill pillars with different materials. Most likely grill cloth or carpet.
Mid Bass in Doors, new fiberglass pods and vinyl. 
Seal and deaden rear deck
Build rear deck amp rack to house the 2 P4004's and the P2002. Cover with Grill Cloth or carpet.
Build up IB Wall for subs. Including seal off behind seat and everywhere air might flow through. 
Build Battery and power rack in sub enclosure.
Convert trunk lid to gas shocks.
Build Amp rack in sub enclosure for P1000-1bd 
Run power lines from front to back. 1/0 Ga. to be run in carlon line under car. 
If money comes in, replace optima Battery with Kintetik 1400.
Install H/O Alternator. (Not sure on this yet.)

Here is the new diagram of the rear deck for the fans. I'm also going to install something to raise the amps off the deck about a half inch or so. Rubber washers or something like that. But using Stinky's advise I'm going to run two fans, Stinger SGJ78, one on each end. Then I'll vent everything through the top of the lid. I think we're ready to go on that. Just need time now.


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## world27owns (May 1, 2009)

Very Nice I love it


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> :lol::lol: AH DUDE YOU'RE KILLIN ME!!! That's a great line!!! Looks beter on cat woman!!! :laugh::laugh:
> 
> Sigh, that's great! Always nice to start off the day with a good laugh.
> 
> ...


 i drove from santa barbara to reno yesterday[up 395...beautiful drive],got my job done..so it's long week-end[again] for me.... i fly outta here to honolulu sunday mornin and return home around june 1st. and yes the last thing on my mind ,when i pass out at night, are my woofers sitting at our factory's store... she would just kill me if she heard me say that.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I hear ya on that one. That's ok just tel her she's always the last one you think about before you go to sleep, and just imagine her laying next to your subs!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

exactly...lol


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm going to do something about these damn a pillars that are driving me nuts. I think what I'm going to do is start most of the way over. My meaning with that is, I'm going to go get new a pillar trims. Then I still have the pillar pods that I made for the previous build to house my tweeters. I've also been thinking about separating the tweeters from the pod. I'm still trying to decide this. But here's the old pod. 

They've been cleaned out though so that it's only the pod that still exists. No face, no tweet, no wires. So I think what i'm going to do is build the new pods out of this. then I'll bolt it in or screw it in or something like that. Then I'll use cloth, to match the headliner, and go over top of the whole pillar and pod. That way I don't have to worry about making a grill cover or anything. I don't know. Just Ideas that are floating through my head. Anyone have any input?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I'm going to do something about these damn a pillars that are driving me nuts. I think what I'm going to do is start most of the way over. My meaning with that is, I'm going to go get new a pillar trims. Then I still have the pillar pods that I made for the previous build to house my tweeters. I've also been thinking about separating the tweeters from the pod. I'm still trying to decide this. But here's the old pod.
> 
> They've been cleaned out though so that it's only the pod that still exists. No face, no tweet, no wires. So I think what i'm going to do is build the new pods out of this. then I'll bolt it in or screw it in or something like that. Then I'll use cloth, to match the headliner, and go over top of the whole pillar and pod. That way I don't have to worry about making a grill cover or anything. I don't know. Just Ideas that are floating through my head. Anyone have any input?


sounds good,but since the pod area is rather sgnificant, i would suggest putting a flush mounted grill as a support,then cover the whole thing in cloth


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

What do you mean by "as a support"? Do you think I should do a grill all the way around the pod face? Then the cloth splits, "just in case" I have to do anything or replace something?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> What do you mean by "as a support"? Do you think I should do a grill all the way around the pod face? Then the cloth splits, "just in case" I have to do anything or replace something?


i am under the impression that you will stretch cloth across the surface of your pod...am i correct?

if that is the case... i was maybe suggesting having a metal grill behind the grill cloth to prevent the cloth from sagging into the opening...
or maybe it isnt even required.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok i see what you're saying now. That is a good Idea. I could even shape it however I want it to look.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

AAAAAAAWWWWWW MANNNNNNNNNNNN! I just got all excited!!!!  My receptionist called me just now and said I had a package up front!!! So I was like "hell yeah, they sent my subs and forgot to email me or something"!!epper: So i walked up front and it was my extra fan I ordered for my amp rack! DAMN IT!!! :laugh: Oh well that's what I get. I guess I'm more excited and anxious to get the subs than I thought I was! Just thought I'd share!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> AAAAAAAWWWWWW MANNNNNNNNNNNN! I just got all excited!!!!  My receptionist called me just now and said I had a package up front!!! So I was like "hell yeah, they sent my subs and forgot to email me or something"!!epper: So i walked up front and it was my extra fan I ordered for my amp rack! DAMN IT!!! :laugh: Oh well that's what I get. I guess I'm more excited and anxious to get the subs than I thought I was! Just thought I'd share!


dealing with AE is a great exercise in self control....:laugh:

but >no pain ,no gain...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

That's a great point! I'm quickly finding out that whole excercising self control thing!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hey does anyone know about the cross flow fans? do those need to be installed in a sort of "IB" install, where part of the fan blows into the amp rack, in this case, and the other part takes the air in from outside the rack? Never done these and I'm trying to understand it. Thanks!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm thinking myself into frustration and comfusion which is leading to more frustration! 

I'm thinking about my mid bass, peerless sls 8's. And I'm wondering what I'm going to do if I cant' get these pods built correctly. If I have to drop down to a 7" driver. My RF 6.5"s sound pretty good now, but they're going into a different car. But if I opened that up another half inch and used some 7" drivers that would work. Then I woulnd't have to worry about creating more work for myeself. 

So here's my components now:

Dayton ND20 tweets. Here's the link to the spec sheet for them. http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/275-035s.pdf
Dayton RS100-4 mid ranges. Here's the link to the spec sheet for them. http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-378s.pdf
Peerless SLS 8's.

So here's my delimma. I'm getting really frustrated trying to figure out how they all mesh, frequency wise. I just have never understood frequency ranges and how it works and why particular speakers work good together and others don't. I've printed out the specs for all these speakers. I've also been looking at Dayton RS180-4's (7" woofers) to replace the SLS 8's and I'm not understanding what I'm looking for, as to wether or not they will work with the upper range stuff. 

The peerless start off at 20hz at 75dbs. At about 80 hz they hit about 88db. They stay pretty steady at between 85 and 88 db till about 700 hz. Then they drop to about 80db at 800 hz and climb a little to 85dbto approx 2800hz and then they drop damatically. That's at a 60 degree off axis, which is about where I'll be. At 30 degrees it's alot different. Here's the link I'm looking at.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/peerless/830667.pdf

The Dayton RS180-4's start out about 20hz at about 76 db and climb to 200hz and about 89db's. They stay pretty stable at between 86 to 89dbs till about 1600 hz and drop of to about 2800 hz before they jump up and drop again dramatically. Here's the link for these that I'm looking at.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-374s.pdf

So I don't know if I'm just rambling and that made no since, which is why I gave the links, but I'm soooooooo not understanding what I'm looking at. Can anyone help me out or show me something that I can read on that would help me understand what I"m looking at and what I'm supposed to be looking for? That would greatly help me in my journey through car audio installation world!!! 

I love this stuff and it's tickin me off  that I can't figure this out. I just need some guidence plese! Thanks!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I'm thinking myself into frustration and comfusion which is leading to more frustration!
> 
> I'm thinking about my mid bass, peerless sls 8's. And I'm wondering what I'm going to do if I cant' get these pods built correctly. If I have to drop down to a 7" driver. My RF 6.5"s sound pretty good now, but they're going into a different car. But if I opened that up another half inch and used some 7" drivers that would work. Then I woulnd't have to worry about creating more work for myeself.
> 
> ...


pm me ,i may have something you need.....for a pair of 6.5's ,they'll blow your socks off!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's my system diagram. For now! 



Alpine IVA-W505 head unit
Alpine KCA-SC100 Sirius unit
Sirius SC-C1 Tuner
Pac SWI-JACK
Pac TR-7
IPOD Touch
Alpine PXA-H701
Alpine PKG-M780 (Headrest Monitors)
Rockford Fosgate P400-4 - Tweets, Mid Range
Rockford Fosgate P400-4 - Midbass (bridged)
Rockford Fosgate P200-2 - Rear fill (for videos only)
Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd - Subs
Dayton ND20 (tweets)
Dayton RS100-4 (mid range)
Peerless SLS 8's (mid bass)
HiVi B3N (full range rear fill)
Acoustic Elgence IB15 (subs IB set up)
Optima Yellow Top (Main Battery)
Kinetik HC800 (Second Battery in trunk)
Tsunami Hardware (wires, distro blocks, fuses, etc.)

I'm making my own rca's and I'm going to try to make my own video cable. Not sure if that's gonna turn out ok but we'll see. 

Also there may be a few changes. The Optima battery will eventually be swapped out for a Kinetik HC1800. Also I might be switching the Peerless with something else.

Thats it for now.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I have some changes now to my plans. Here's what I'm doing. 

NEW PLANS -
* Redo Apillars and Rear pillars - Remove pillars 
Remove vinyl
Repair pods where needed to remove any lines that might show.
Prime the entire piece with grey primer not white.
Re cover with speaker grill carpet. (Decide if we want 2 piece application or not. 1 pillar 1 grill cover)
* Redo head rest monintor install - Possibly need new headrests to do this.
Remove headrests existing.
 Build wood frames to fit inside the holes in headrests.
Attach headrest fabric to fit inside wood frame.
Reinstall monitor bracket and monitor. 
* Install new midbass in doors - Use closed cell foam inside doors. 
Cover with deadener.
Cover outside of door with deadener (2nd Layer)
Cover all cables and wires with foam or deadener.
Cut new brackets out of cutting boards for midbass and install threaded inserts for screws.
Install new speaker wires using the Tsunami 12ga. running through the wire pass through. 
Install new mid bass drivers. Using the Hertz ML 165's, not the peerless. 
Figure out some way to fix the bottom of the door where the tweeter is. (not sure on this one)


OLD PLANS -

Rear Fill speakers in rear side trims, pods. Cover in vinyl. --------------------------------------------------------------------------DONE
Install Head Unit, PAC TR7, PAC-SWJAX, Sirius Unit, Sirius Transmitter. -------------------------------------------------------------DONE

Install Rear head rest monitors, and brain. -----------------------------------------------------------------------DONE, but not satisfied.
Tweeters and Mid Ranges in Apillars, cover in vynil. -----------------------------------------------------------------DONE, but not happy.
Mid Bass in Doors, new fiberglass pods and vinyl. 
Seal and deaden rear deck
Build rear deck amp rack to house the 2 P4004's and the P2002.
Build up IB Wall for subs. Including seal off behind seat and everywhere air might flow through. 
Build Battery and power rack in sub enclosure.
Convert trunk lid to gas shocks.
Build Amp rack in sub enclosure for P1000-1bd 
Run power lines from front to back. 1/0 Ga. to be run in carlon line under car. 
If money comes in, replace optima Battery with Kintetik 1400.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I ordered new trims today. I got all new pins to replace what I've screwed up during the install, and new a pillars, and some other stuff. 

I'm going to plan to do some stuff this weekend. Not sure what yet but I need to get started.

****OK I NEED SOME ADVISE OR SUGGESTIONS PLEASE****
I need to replace or fix the lower part of the door trims. I was going to build pods for the sls 8's but I'm not using those now. I'm going a different direction. The problem is the tweeter in the door. Here's the pic below.

I no longer need the tweet there because it won't be used anymore. When I was going to do the pod in the door it was going to get covered up because all of that was going to go away. No it's not and I don't know how to fix it. Any ideas. 

I thought of just filling it in, putting something behind it and fill it, sand it, then find something to texture it, and the rest of the door of course, then paint it. Not feeling warm and fuzzy about that thought. A new door panel costs about $150 per door. HHmmmmmm feeling a little stuck at the moment!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I just sent AE an email checking on status of my subs. Getting a little anxious now. I last checked in a month ago, and I know it's getting closer cause people have gotten theirs. But I'll just keep waiting I guess.

My new delimma is this. I have both of my RF P4004's in now, and have for about a month. Last week I noticed that when I turn on the car, or turn the key to on to power everythig up, I'm getting a crackle in the tweets before they come on. Like I said it's been just last week that it started happening. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on what might be causing this? Id be happy to give out further info if needed. It's just concerning to me.

On a separate note, I'm back to kicking around the idea of selling my Fosgate amps. I have 2 P4004's, a P2002, and a P1000-1bd. All are brand new, with exception of the 2 P4004's that I've had in for about a month and not played hard at all! 

I was thinking about going to the cadence line of amps. Here's what i'm considering. 

Xa125.2 - for the rear fill (doesn't match but I'll put it somewhere else. It's freakin rearfill)
iA2 - for the midbass
iA4 - for the mid range and tweets
iA7 - subs
This package right now would cost me $926.00.

The other package I'm thinking of is this:
Xa125.2 - for rear fill 
Xa125.4 - for mid range and tweets
Xa175.4 - for mid bass (bridged)
iA7 - Subs
This package right now would cost me $796.00.

I would of course have to get all the Xa amps in orange and the iA7 with the orange stripes. 

So what does everyone think? I would of course have to sell off my RF amps first cause, well, I'm not made of money. But I think I could get close to those for all my amps. I have acutally 3 RF 4004's after relooking. If I could sell those I might just do it. 

I was also thinking of getting rid of my Punch Series RF amps and upgrading to the Power Series. But that's a crap load more money than the Cadence I think, without researching yet. 

Does anyone have an opinion on RF vs. Cadence? I've heard a ****load of wonderful things about the iA7. What about the rest and does it compare to the RF reputation? 

Work to be done soon on the build by the way! I SWEAR!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So doing a little research I found out that the Power series at Amazon.com would run me about $1200.00 to $1400.00 depending on the amps (for midbas a 2ch or a 4ch amp).


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I did some looking on fleabay and I added in the Alpine PDX amps. I'm looking at 1400.00 for those. For the Fosgate on fleabay it's about 1250.00 depending on the amps. I cannot find any Cadence amps on there. Ok I'm done. 

Bored at work can anyone tell!?!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Powermax electronics is having a sale on the Cadence amps. For the price and included warranty, I think it beats anything you'll get on Ebay.

I would do 2 iA4 amps...one for mids/tweets, one bridged for midbass. iA7 for subs.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I ordered new trims today. I got all new pins to replace what I've screwed up during the install, and new a pillars, and some other stuff.
> 
> I'm going to plan to do some stuff this weekend. Not sure what yet but I need to get started.
> 
> ...


i'd patch it up. it's not a very noticable area ,anyway. i am looking at the possibilty of placing my mids in that spot, actually[coupes have a larger area in that same spot]. i am trying not to have to build kick-pods.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

mSaLL150 said:


> Powermax electronics is having a sale on the Cadence amps. For the price and included warranty, I think it beats anything you'll get on Ebay.
> 
> I would do 2 iA4 amps...one for mids/tweets, one bridged for midbass. iA7 for subs.


That's really what I'm leaning towards, but I still have to have the rear fill. But I don't need much for that. That's why I was thinking that Xa125.2. Cheap and will do the job. Small too. 

That's what got me goin on this Cadence idea again. 

So I actually went out to do some work on the car tonight, and really wasn't all that motivated in the first place, but I cut out what would be the rear deck amp rack. That's gonna be a project, if I can even get it done. I'm not convenced yet that it's doable, but hey why not try right. 

I also sat in the car and tuned my stuff a little bit. WOW what a difference 3 way makes. Everything is so clear and just sounds great. Now I have a little issue. My passenger side tweet doesn't seem to be working. I'm now wondering if I fried it. Oh well I'll order another tomorrow. I'm actually thinking of putting in my RF T1T tweets. They've sounded really crisp in the past and why not try something I already have? So I may give that a whirl!! We'll see what the next couple of days hold for me. 

Either way it's money I don't have and the only way I'm gonna get it is if I can quickly sell my amps and then turn around and buy the Cadence stuff. I have to decide if I wanna do that. Cause my problem is that if they don't all sell then I'm stuck with a half a system of amps and no money, really to buy new ones. 

Oh this hobby is sooooooooo frustrating at times!!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> i'd patch it up. it's not a very noticable area ,anyway. i am looking at the possibilty of placing my mids in that spot, actually[coupes have a larger area in that same spot]. i am trying not to have to build kick-pods.


Well that was my thought but how would I finish it? Paint?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

sem has colors and texture paints for interior finishing of vehicles. i'd give em a try.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Who is SEM? Is there a website?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

**********UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE****************

epper:epper:epper: LOOK AT THIS!!! 


AE Speakers Online Store
------------------------------------------------------
Order Number: 550
Detailed Invoice: https://www.aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/account_history_info.php?order_id=550
Date Ordered: Monday 30 March, 2009

The comments for your order are





Your order has been updated to the following status.

New status: Shipped

Please reply to this email if you have any questions.


:beerchug: :thumbsup: :drummer: :rockon:


OH I'M SO HAPPY I COULD ALMOST CRY!! WWOOOOOOHHHHOOOOO!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

congrats,man!!....now every time you go to the garage, you will be tripping over the boxes for the next month oke:


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

i bet your gonna be stalkin the mail man ,tomorrow....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

:lol::wiseguy: Are you kidding me! I'm gonna take her to lunch when she brings my stuff. I'll be looking tomorrow, monday, tuesday, wednesday, and whenever other day I don't have the rest of my stuff.

Now I have tweeter issues. I think I have either a defective or blown passenger tweet. I think I already said i was going to swap out those with the RF tweets I have. At least I'll see what those do until I can find new ones. The Dayton ND20's that I have, have a range of 2k to 25k or something like that and the RF's are at 4K min and I don't know how high they go off hand. SO I have to figure out what i"m going to do about that. 

The subs are going in a cabinet where I don't have to look at them everyday and drive myself nuts casue I haven't gotten them in yet. But I'm right there to getting that started. I'm thinking I may have to scrap the rear deck amp rack idea though.  I just don't see how I can get it done. So back to the drawing board. Most likely back to the raised floor idea in the trunk. Sigh!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Stinky,

Hey do you have any thoughts on replacement tweets. I actually tought about getting the Hertz set, at $150.00, but I'm not sure. If I do that do I need to spend the extra $150.00 and get the 4" midranges as well (actually I think they're 3.5" not 4")? Is it worth the extra $300.00? What are your thoughts?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

those woofers came from a 2 way set,which sounded really good. that woofer plays mids very well and the tweets that came with it are ml 28's which has an ajustable chamber to alter it's response. if you can score those @ $150, they are definatly worth it or you can score some h.a.t. L1-v1 for around $60 on the forum.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I've been looking since you said that yesterday about the L1-v1's and I'm not finding much. But I looked at the one's the stereo shop here quoted me and they're these, as well as the mid range's. The tweets are at 120w, it says continuous and peak, and the midrange is at 50w continuous, 100 peak.

Tweets:
Here's the links:
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_ht25.pdf

Mid ranges:
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hv100.pdf

or these, I can't remember

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hl70.pdf

Are the amps that I have, the P4004's, enough to run these and the mid bass? I know its enough for the midrange, but what about the tweets? I don't need to max out power to get great sound do I? 

I'm anxious to hear your thoughts!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

tweeters are very sensative.and do not require much power to fry the coils. start with your gains set way down. 
do not worry....you have plenty of power for those woofers.
try getting a price on these> http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/SchedaTecnica_space.pdf....


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

^ not the same tweeters/mids and stinky has.

here are his (and my tweeters, too, now):
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.it/Doc/pdf_ml280_web.pdf

his comp set is this:
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.it/Doc/pdf_mlk3_web.pdf

not sure if he's using that midrange or not still, though.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You know, Bikin, I looked at those tweets. I just can't seem to find any. I have a local dealer here that will sell me the High Energy tweets for 150.00 for the pair, and then another 150.00 for the mid ranges, 3 or 4 can't remember which one's. But he also said he coulnd't get me just the tweets for the mili's. I had to order a set.  I thought you were running the HAT's? L1, L3?, L8. What happened to that stuff? 

You're still running those pods in the apillars yes? I'm about to rebuild mine. I finally figured out what I did wrong, and why they don't line up. 

1) I'm using a 12ga speaker wire, I know its overkill but it's what I have, and I put them side by side out of the bottom. I changed that the other day and it's definately what the problem was, or part of it anyway.

2) When I did the vinyl on them I must have pulled too hard or stretched it too much cause it's taken the whole thing out of form. It's bent the top too far to the back. So the middle sticks out when I put it on . 

So now I'm going to rebuild them using the pods that I already had, and restructuring them, and then I'll either cover it with grill cloth or some kind of thin carpet.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

i haven't had HAT anything in my car since last May. I'm running Scan 7's and 4's. 7's are in the floors and 4's are in the pillars, yes.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well see there. That's what I know. Did you like em when you had em? Why did you change? Or was it just time for something new?! 

Ok so can I pick your brain about you pillars? Are the pods slid in or are they attached? And you carpeted over the whole thing right? No separate speaker grill?

That's all I got for now.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

not a fan of hybrid sound. bottom line.

pod is screwed into place.
pillars are covered in grille cloth


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

bikinpunk said:


> ^ not the same tweeters/mids and stinky has.
> 
> here are his (and my tweeters, too, now):
> http://www.hertzaudiovideo.it/Doc/pdf_ml280_web.pdf
> ...


close,but no cigar...i had the mlk165 comps[2 way ''baby milles'']

i held on to the tweets and will be comparing them to the L1-v1 and maybe the v2.... but i think i already know the answer to which pair will win...

as for mids , i will be running hat L4's
mid-woofs= peerless xls/hds 8


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

lemme know if you need hertz anything ...my dealer can get oem hertz mounting screws,if you need em...lol


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Are they necessary? I mean it'll be behind the door panel so they won't be seen. I was thinking of using allen screws anyway. 

If you don't go with your Hertz are you willing to sell those too? If so how much? Just curious!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Are they necessary? I mean it'll be behind the door panel so they won't be seen. I was thinking of using allen screws anyway.
> 
> If you don't go with your Hertz are you willing to sell those too? If so how much? Just curious!!


sorry the screw thing was just me exagerating....but i can get my hands on pretty much anything...not just sets. 

never say never on the hertz tweets..but i need to compare them.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

hey I'm in no hurry really. But that would be cool! If you can find out how much a set would cost too that would be cool.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok it's Wednesday! Patiently waiting the UPS guy!! :anxious::inout: Subs should be here today!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

****!!! I apparently missed an email saying that the delivery got delayed and is rescheduled till tomorrow. I guess it's not that big a deal, as long as I've had to wait for them thus far, but I'm not going to be at my office tomorrow and of course those of you can imagine the anxiousness (don't konw if that's a word but just go with it!) that I'm feeling right now! Oh well it is what it is! SIGH!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

i for-see multiple trips to home depot in the near future...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

OH YEAH!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

did AE come-a-knockin,yet?


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## ibanzil (Jun 29, 2008)

well I know 1 about hertz screws....the mille subs dont NEED them but I couldnt get any screws I had to sit flush so had to dig the ones made for it out. They have a recessed screw hole that bevels inward.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I don't know about the subs yet. I wasn't at work today. I was working at my mom's house. I'll be at the office tomorrow, so we'll keep our fingers crossed!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

epper:epper:epper: So I got to the office this morning and look at what was waiting for me at my desk!!!!



Hmmmm I wonder what these boxes could be!!!! Let's open them and find out!!! 



Well it looks like something black and about 15" and round.............





OH YEAH BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE WAIT IS FINALLY OVER!!!!!!

And in case there was any doubt they are mine......................



There you have it................................OH ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that means I have to actually get my build going!!!!! OH THE PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!

:laugh:


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

black,15'' and round????.....lolol ...nevermind...i am suffering from lack of sleep and compounded jet lag


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

hey congrats ..they are finally here!...euhhh...there


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so at the moment I think I'm going to put everything on hold. Here's where I'm at. I, for whatever reason, am set on getting different amps. I'm just not wanting to go with the RF's anymore. So I'm going to sell off a bunch of stuff, mostly amps, but I have a ton of other misc. stuff in my garage that needs to go as well. I'll be posting a classified thread soon but I have to get pics up first. 

Here's some of what I have, I'm not gonna post up prices cause I'm not doing this as a for sale post, just informational.

Rockford Fosgate Amps:
Punch 1000-1bd NIB
Punch 4004 (I have 3 of these)
Punch 2002
These are all the current style punch amps. Black with the blue lights on top.

Punch P5002
Punch P3001 (I have 2 of these)
These are the older style amps with the chrome covers.

Other stuff:
Pioneer AVIC-D3, with bypass done, all wiring, ipod connection, sirius unit, pac-swips. (I do not have the original box, however, I have all manuals and all wiring for it.)
Pioneer Bluetooth Unit CD-BTB200 with all wiring
Alpine sirius unit KCA-SC100
Alpine Vehicle Hub Pro VPA-B222
Audiobahn Headrest monitors - 5.6" screens (2) In orginal boxes, all wiring, and will include a monster video amplifier with 3 tsunami video cables.
Rockford Fosgate P3SD410 (2) 10" DVC Subs with RF heavy duty grills
Rockford Fosgate P1S48 (2) 8" subs NIB
Knuconceptz Optical Cable eKs-op5
Peerless SLS 8" NIB
Rockford Fosgate Tweets T1T with crossovers
A TON OF TSUNAMI RCA'S (New In Packages)

I think that's it, off the top of my head. So look out for the classified post and pictures coming soon. 

Here's what I'm looking for, or at least what I've been throwing around. I need something with small footprints. There are a couple things I've been looking at. 

As I've said on here before I like the Cadence amps, the Xenith Series to be specific. I've also been looking at the Arc Audio Mini's. Both of these have small foot prints. A little up there in pricing but the small footprint is nice. Another one I was looking at, while researching the Arc Audio Mini's, was the XXD's. Does anyone know anything about these? They're looking like they're a little less than what the Cadence and the Mini's are running. These also have a smaller footprint. 

Here's the other direction. I'm looking at JL Audio Amps now as well. Specifically the "Slash Series v2's". I did some research and what I've come up with is if I could land a 300/4v2, and a 450/4v2 that would still work for me and I would only use 2 not 3 amps, and still be within my required deminsions for my amp rack. Then I would like either the 1000/1v2 or the 500/1v2 for the subs. I don't think I need the 1000/1v2, because going off of what Bikinpunk said about his subs and set up, I don't need anything that big. My set up is almost exactly like his. Same subs, IB set up. So that's the way I'm leaning right now, simply because the price is about half and the deminsions for the 2 amps is less than what I would have for 3 amps.

Also the way the amps are set up, ie terminals etc., are important. I'm still planning to go with the rear deck amp rack so the terminals have to be accessable as well as not take up too much space.

The JL Auido's are way better set up than the others space wise. They are set up where all of the terminals are at the bottom of the amp. That makes everything accessable. The Cadence is the second best, with the RCA terminals on one side and everything else on the other. That would make them mostly accessable because I should never have to remove the rca's for any reason, if I installed the amps sideways with the rca's facing the rear of the car. Then the last are the Arc Audio mini's which are set up with the power terminals and fuses on one side and everything else on the other. This forces me to install them left to right, but at the same time they're so small that I could put all 4 amps in the rear deck. 

So in the end I think I'm leaning towards the JL Audio's. They are set up with everything on the bottom of the amps, the power ratings are perfect, and the price is way lower than the other amps. The only draw back is that the two 4ch amps (300/4 and 450/4) are going in one place and the sub amp is going to a different place. With the Arc's I could put them all in the rear deck. I'm looking at about a 36" limit for the rear deck amp rack, left to right. The JL's are at 33.1" if I butt them side by side. With the Arc's I'm looking at and end to end measurement of 23". Of course there has to be room for the wires so I would think about 30" for those end to end. But, again, I could fit all 4 back there. 

So there you have it. That's where I'm at. That's why I am putting things on hold. I have way too much stuff going on, and changes to be made before I even started the install, and I need to get back on track. My basic plan is staying the same, but the equipment is changing a little. But one more time, in order to do what I want to do, I have to sell the stuff I said above, as well as anything else I can find out there. I'm sure the list will grow by the time I post it. 

Sorry about the long read folks, but I figured you deserved to know what was going on. 

Thanks for reading it. I'll keep everyone updated! And if anyone out there has any thoughts or suggestions on amps or anything else for that matter, I'd love to hear them. Now's as good a time as any!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So i pulled the trigger today on the Hertz gear. The mid ranges and tweeters. I put down the deposite today and they'll be here by the end of next week. So I now have less than a week to come up with another 315.00, which I don't have. Hmmmm, might get a little tricky making that work. 

I'm still thinking I may sell my amps and the rest of the stuff that I have listed above, well that's edited below, and then I think I've decided on the Arc Mini's. But that's all hinging on the sell of this other stuff. I'm gonna start taking pictures and stuff tonight so i can get it posted. 

I'm sure I've lost a lot of people on this thread, since it's kind of stalled out, but DON'T GIVE UP ON ME YET GUYS!! IT'S GONNA GET BACK INTO FULL SWING HERE VERY SHORTLY. I PROMISE!!!

Updated List:

Rockford Fosgate Amps:
Punch 1000-1bd NIB
Punch 4004 (I have 3 of these)
Punch 2002
These are all the current style punch amps. Black with the blue lights on top.

Other stuff:

Pioneer AVIC-D3, with bypass done, all wiring, ipod connection, sirius unit, pac-swips. (I do not have the original box, however, I have all manuals and all wiring for it.)
Pioneer Bluetooth Unit CD-BTB200 with all wiring
Alpine sirius unit KCA-SC100
Alpine Vehicle Hub Pro VPA-B222
Audiobahn Headrest monitors - 5.6" screens (2) In orginal boxes, all wiring, and will include a monster video amplifier with 3 tsunami video cables.
Rockford Fosgate P3SD410 (2) 10" DVC Subs with RF heavy duty grills
Rockford Fosgate P1S48 (2) 8" subs NIB
Knuconceptz Optical Cable eKs-op5
Peerless SLS 8" NIB
Tsunami Elite Series 4ch RCA's - 17' I believe
Tsunami Elite Series Y adaptors 1 Male to 2 female
Tsunami Distro blocks (fused and non fused)
I've also got a crap load of stinger connectors, stinger cross fans, and more stuff I know I'm missing. 

I'm not breaking any rules for this am I? Anyone? This is not my for sale thread but I'm just letting everyone know what I have and it will be up for sale in a different thread soon. I don't wanna cause any waves, or break any rules.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok well it's been about a week since I've updated anything. Here's where I'm at, and I'm tired of F-ing around with my crap sounds now, but I'm just keeping the RF amps and I'm going to get going on my install. 

I went and picked up my Hertz Mid ranges yesterday, and also found out that my Hertz Tweets were shipped separately for some odd reason. But they're supposed to be here on monday or tuesday. 

I'm only missing a couple of things now, that I can't do the install without, and I have to re purchase them because when I did my brother's car (Pt Cruiser) I used a bunch of stuff for that. So now I have no 4 ga, for my amps, or sound deadener, or MDF. Not stuff that will keep me from getting started, but important none the less. 

My first project is going to be rebuilding the apillars. I have to now that I've dropped from a 4" to a 3" mid range. But also I think we all remember how disapointed I was in the last apillar build. So this time I'm going to do a separate pod to slide into the pillar and then cover the whole thing with grill cloth. Or at least make it a 2 piece system, covering most with a lightweight carpet and then the speaker pod with grill cloth. Something like that. I have my idea I just have to put it to work. 

Next I'll be redoing my head rest screens. When I got the new Alpine screens and put them in, I knew it was a stretch. The housings for the screens are poping out of the headrest because of the headrests being so small. The screens are secure, but they look like ****. 

I found a great idea in building a frame from the inside out of plywood, which I have no problem doing as a carpenter, but it's the recovering the headrests that I'm going to have issues with. I don't have $75.00 per headrest to take down to the local shop to have them redone. So I'm going to see about getting some cloth that's very similar to what I have and way over buy so I don't have to worry about messing up. And in all actuality the same carpet or cloth is used in the entire car so I will buy even more for the a pillars and whatever else I need it for as well.

My thoughts on the headrest project is to pull off the old head rest cloth, build my frame, use foam insulation to fill in any gaps and to make it rounded like it was factory. I'm going to use the old cloth to take apart, destitch, and then basically cut out the old shapes on the new cloth and sew the new cloth together. Then I'll stretch it over the head rest, and I'll attach some velcro or a zipper on the bottom to secure it together. Once that's done I'll cut the cloth out of the inside of the frame and staple it to the wood frame. Put the housing in over that and it should look 100 times better than it does now. 

That's all on my ajenda at the moment. If anyone has any comments, questions, or suggestions on the headrests I'd love to hear them. Kind of flying by the seat of my pants on that one. I'll see if I can find the link that I'm going off of and post it up in case anyone else is needing an idea for this.

Staring at the subs is driving me nuts too. But I have to start somewhere and this seems to be the best place to do it.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

although i abandonned the idea of doing the headrests on mine...i still wanna see yours get done. keep it up!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Im anxious to get that one done, so I'll be sure to post as soon as it gets done.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

did you get your hertz gear,yet?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You know, this is my luck and the story of my life. I got my midranges and almost slept with them on my pillow that night. But my tweets are on back order or something. I went in yesterday to see, cause it's been a week, and they're telling me monday they should be in. Once that's here, I'll start building the apillars again. 

The other issue is I have to find some cloth to match my car so I can rebuild the headrests with the screens. But I really haven't had time to search for it.

I also ordered my Kinetik HC1800 and new wires today. Also some techflex. 

I'm still very determined to get the amps in the rear deck. If I can do that, I'll be lookin good for the trunk. I have lots of different ideas to make it all work back there. Just have to see if it will or not. TIME TIME TIME!!!!! That which I seem to have none of!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I got out into the garage tonight and got a little bit done. Not much to write home about but I had to change out the terminals on my battery cause I'm trying to sell my Tsunami Battery Topper. So here's what I did. I actually bought some new terminals this week to go with my re install, but for whatever reason they don't fit. I don't get why the battery people thought it was necessary to make posts different sizes. Either that or I'm not doing it right cause the holes for the battery posts on the new terminals are way small. So those got put back in the drawer and I put the Rockford Fosgate "tanks" back on. I also added a double fuse holder and a 2 way splitter. Here are pics.

This is the view of everything from the top. There are two lines out of the termials. One is for the fuse block, which houses the fuse and 1/0 gauge line to the alternator, and the other is the fuse and 4 ga. line (soon to be changed to 1/0 gauge) for the amps and system. The other 1/0 Gauge out of the terminal is for the splitter I put in to house the two 4 ga. lines I changed out on the stock system. The new terminals would eliminate the splitter if I can get it to work on the new battery, Kinetik HC1800 on the way!
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Reinstall%20-%20Wires%20and%20Alternator/?action=view&current=DSC01986.jpg][/URL]

Here is the view of the splitter on the side of the black box, I think its the ecu, attached with heavy duty velcro for now. 
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/Reinstall%20-%20Wires%20and%20Alternator/?action=view&current=DSC01988.jpg][/URL]

Like I said it's not much but I had to do it for now. I have a Kinetik HC1800, top posts, and side mount posts on the way. Once I get those in I'll be making a new plate for the battery to sit on, and I'll be figuring out a way to attach the fuse block a different way. Of course if it works this way, with the velcro, then I may just leave it. However, I don't think that with the heat under the hood and the heat in the air, that will last too long. I would like to eliminate the splitter, and then all new wires will be wrapped with techflex and heat shrink. Also I'll be changing out that 4 gauge to 1/0 gauge. 

More to come another time!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I got some goodies today! Got some fuses, no big. But I got my new 4ga wires, pos and neg, to run to my amps from the db blocks. Also got some techflex to wrap them in. Expecting a few more this week, either today or tomorrow. Still not sure when I'll be able to work on this project but I'll have the stuff when I am ready!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Got some more goodies today. Kinetik HC1800, Post terminals, and side mount hardware. But I'm not sure i'll need that now. Anyway, I'm going on vacation next week, but when i get back I'm going to start my build again. 

I could use some thoughts on how to build a new battery tray to house this beast. Reason being that the stock battery tray for the Honda Civic is so damn small, and it's kind of gotten destroyed from the optima yellow top going in. I figured it would be easier to replace it rather than try to fix it. 

My first thought is to use something like, expanded steel, to build the tray. Then I was thinking of doing some 3 inch sides so that it has something to hold it in place or prevent it from sliding around. Problem with that is that I don't know how to weld. I'm assuming I would have to spot weld the whole thing, if that's the proper terminology. Any guesses on what it would cost to have a shop do this? Reason for using the expanded steel is so that if moisture or anything like that gets in there it's not sitting in there rusting it out. Not sure if that's a good idea or not. I also know that they sell it down and the "Depot". All thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 

Here are the goodies! Taken from my crackberry so they may not be of high quality.
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/?action=view&current=IMG00064.jpg][/URL]


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Those Kinetik's are great batteries. Ive had my KHC-1400 for about a year or so now and it has always had tons of juice. You should be all set with an even larger 1800.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Those Kinetik's are great batteries. Ive had my KHC-1400 for about a year or so now and it has always had tons of juice. You should be all set with an even larger 1800.


I'm hoping so cause that's why I got em. I also have an HC800 for the trunk too.


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> I'm hoping so cause that's why I got em. I also have an HC800 for the trunk too.


overkill much?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

AdamTaylor said:


> overkill much?


I don't know to be honest with you but we'll see. I am actually thinking, because of space issues, that I might just do the HC1800 up front first and see where that gets me, then I'll add the HC800 later if needed. 

One of my biggest pet peeves is dimming lights. Everyone talks about how good the Optima yellow tops are, and I'm not having good luck with mine and I'm only running 3 4ch 400 watt amps. None of which is up over half on the gain. I can only imagine what it's gonna be with 2000 watts of amps running. SO I want to make sure I've got plenty of room to play with. 

Plus I'm learning as I go about the major stuff. I've been doing basic audio for a long time, but this is by far the biggest project I've ever undertaken.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Update on the Hertz tweets! This is pissin me off too! I've been told about 3 or 4 times now a couple days or the end of the week, and here we are the end of another week and I'm being told again the beginning of next week. Which sucks, cause I'm going vacation for a week, so they're going to sit there for a week if the do come in. Not holding my breath but whatever. Just irritated by the whole thing. 

***NOTE FOR ALL YOU AUDIO SHOPS AND BUSINESSES OUT THERE!! WHEN YOU TELL SOMEONE YOURE GOING TO CALL THEM AT SPECIFIC TIMES, FREAKIN DO IT!!!!!!*** 

These people have said oh we'll call you in a couple days, or whenever they say the tweets will be in, and I've had to call them ever single time to check up on it! AAAAHGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!

I was hopeing to have the new a pillars started before I leave, but that's not going to happen. I'm also working on getting some fabric so I can get my headrests rebuilt. I thought I had a place that could get close to the interior of my Civic, but it wasn't close. I really don't want different stuff. I'm too detail oriented that way, especially when I have to look at it every day! It'll drive me nuts, so now I have to decide what to do about it if I can't find any. I may just buy the new headrests and rebuild out of new stuff. Just don't want to do another 300.00 for some new headrests. Gotta check the wreck yards around here and see what I can find there. 

That's about all I have for now!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

where did you buy your tweets from...AE?... oke:..j/k


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> where did you buy your tweets from...AE?... oke:..j/k


:lol::lol::lol:


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

Hey bud,

I feel your tweeter pain... and am sending some serious karma mojo to your dealer! I
d love to hear those hertz tweets when you get em in... still haven't heard any of the hertz gear. At least though, I can say I've found Scanspeak stuff - moving to that was really the step that took me from what I thought was a so-so but nice system to a really good sounding system. Hope the hertz stuff puts you where you want to be!

I see you've ended up building up the electrical system in your civic too - and it looks like you've done really nicely. About 6 months ago, after doing the big 3 (4 in my case), going through 2 stock honda batteries and adding a Stinger Power battery to the trunk, I finally bit and bought a Die Hard Platinum - made by Odyssey, it comes with a 4 year free replacement and given my experience so far, I figure if it makes it all 4 years, it really is a special battery lol. Anyhow, after that it still has another 4 years of prorated warranty. It has made a huge difference in my electrical ssytem stability and was an great investment.

In short, I think you will be very happy you went with good batteries. It just sucks to get out to your ride and find out its dead on its wheels! Plus, while the Civic isn't a dog, robbing those few extra horsepower by tossing in an alternator when other options exist (unless you go crazy with amplification) just doesn't make any sense. I've even toyed with the idea of going to a new class d/t/g/whatever whoever comes up with next for my sub, but I pretty luch love my Zapco for that purpose and recently rebuilt its compartment lol -so that out.

Good work guy - go enjoy vacation and don't sweat the system for a while. ITs good for you to keep balance and these things tend to take over your entire life if you don't watch it!

Less


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

less said:


> Hey bud,
> 
> I feel your tweeter pain... and am sending some serious karma mojo to your dealer! I
> d love to hear those hertz tweets when you get em in... still haven't heard any of the hertz gear. At least though, I can say I've found Scanspeak stuff - moving to that was really the step that took me from what I thought was a so-so but nice system to a really good sounding system. Hope the hertz stuff puts you where you want to be!
> ...



Thanks for all the positive words. I'm ready to get this stuff going and get done with it. It already has consumed me for the most part. I love doing it but I just don't have the money to keep throwing at it. 

Yeah I wish something would happen with the tweets. It's really holding me up. I know the thought out there to that is that it shouldn't be it's just the way i work. I'm way out of my comfort zone with all the hertz stuff, the AE subs, and the IB set up, and the Processor, etc. This, as I've said before, is by far the biggest set up I've ever done. I'm used to basic stuff with crossovers, and rockford fosgate everything. I'm still planning on trying to acumulate some money to be able to change out my amps to arc audio minis. Then I'll be completely out there away from my normal equipment. 

My final hope is that I don't have too high of expectations on how it's going to sound so I'm not disapointed if it doesn't sound that way. But I am excited with the difference in being able to adjust each individual speaker. We'll see how it goes. 

As far as the Batteries go, I'm sure it is "overkill" as someone else had said here, but that's ok, cause I don't want any power issues. And with the prices I was able to pick these batteries up at it was worth it to do it. 

So again thanks for the positive words and I'm going to enjoy my vacation and start building when I come back. Hopefully this thread isn't too dead and people will pick it back up again when I start building. I have some good ideas, IMO, and I'm looking forward to making them happen!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

i wouldn't feel too much outside the comfort zone ,scoot...you definatly have good builder skills.
just make a plan and stick to it....give yourself plenty of time too.
when i get frustrated on one thing , i'll let it sit for a day and come back to it.
but i'll attack something else ,in the meantime.
no use rushing...i learned the hard way this week.[melted plastic:blush:,paint blisters,ect..]


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## less (Nov 30, 2006)

I doubt you will be unhappy with your sound overall. The only thing that really bothers me about this hobby though is being 100% at the mercy of the guy who mixes and finalizes the music! It sucks to just love a bands talent, but have to retune your system for them because they've got a dumbash in the production process - and you simply have no control.

The one thing I noticed with my Bit One is that it seems to honestly make some music that used to sound bad (when my system was set for pure audiphile recordings like it normally is) sound pretty good again... with no change of settings. I don't have a clue how that would be accomplished - considering I've used good electronics prior to this, but it makes me happy!

As far as learning the hard way, I've had a lot of people tell me how brave I am to totally tear my (brand new) car apart to do this stuff... and I've made my share of dumbass moves, but its been a lot of fun building this too! 

If I EVER sell the civic, I'll be doing this again and will get better results the first time around, but hey - I'm really proud that I've done every mod in my car by hand and without any experts building this or that... Even if I had the money for an expert to do the work, I'd not miss building this stuff again for the world. The building IS what makes this fun for me. Although it does have its days lol!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Man I just got back from vacation and I'm lovin the positive words. I'm so ready to tear into this thing. 

UPDATE UPDATE!!!! I got my tweets today. I hoped on the phone this morning to find out if they were in yet, cause it's been a week since I've been gone, and Wednesday will be a month since I ordered them. They said "no there's been a crazy back order on them and the rep says they're shipping on friday!" So as frustrated as I am about it I hung up and just took it, since there's not a whole lot I can do about it. So, like 20 mintues later my phone rings and it's the shop saying the ups guy just delivered them. So I rushed over and now they're in my hot little hands. Well now they're in the garage sitting next to the mid ranges and mid bass getting aquainted!! :laugh:

So now I have all the front ready to go. I picked up some expanded steel today at the depot, now I have to go knock on my neighbors door who does body work, and find out if he welds. If not I'll have to figure something out. But I'm gonna get started on that and get the power in and running. I wish I could show everyone the plans for the battery and the fuse block rack I have in mind but not sure how I can do that at this point. Might have to revert back to my MS Paint Skills..............nnnnnnnnnnnnooooooooooooooooooooo!!!

Anyway, I'm home taking care of my sick 2 year old today so not much going to happen today, between that and laundry and softball playoffs for me tonight. But that's ok cause my schedule doesn't have much on it for a while. Until I go to washington to see Dave Matthews Band for 3 shows on memorial day weekend. Or is it labor day. I don't know its at the end of the month and I'm JUICED!!!

Thanks all!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok one more update. I was cruizing through ebay looking for a couple things and found a pair of hertz 4" coaxals. I'm gonna take out the ones in the rear and replace them with these. 

[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/99scooter/?action=view&current=HertzDCX100.jpg][/URL]

I'm going to have to rebuild the rear pods now unfortunately cause whats in there now are 3" but that's ok. I've got these ones down, and I have to re cover them anyway. 

Just got the email, they ship tomorrow.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

glad you got your tweets,man...
sorry if i am not talkative...goin through some personal **** at the moment.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

We're here, keep it going.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> glad you got your tweets,man...
> sorry if i am not talkative...goin through some personal **** at the moment.


Yeah I saw that on your thread. I replied but I'll tell you here too. You have my sympathies and my best with you and your family. It's never easy loosing someone, especially a father. If there's anything you need, talk or whatever like that, please don't hesitate to contact me.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's an updated list of equipment. I was originally going to list out all the old list of equipment, but it made this too freakin long, and with the new start of thoughts and listing everything out it was long enough already. If you want to see the old list it's on the first page, I believe. 

Also some of the ideas have changed. In case you weren't following along as to what ideas were floating around my little brain, I've listed everything out below, my plans on the build. 

*New List*
Alpine IVA-W505 - Head Unit w/ Ipod controls
PAC-TR7 – Bypass for video
PAC-SWJACK – Steering wheel interface
Alpine KCA – SC100 - Sirius Interface
Sirius SC-C1 - Sirius Satellite Tuner
Alpine PKG-M780 – Rear 7" Headrest Monitors w/ Brain
Alpine PXA-H701 – Processor (would like to go optical cable but can't find one)
Hertz High Energy HT25 – Front Tweets (Were Dayton ND20's)
Hertz High Energy HT70 – Front Midrange (Were Dayton RS100)
Hertz Mille MLK165 – Front Midbass (Curently RF 162S Mids / Planned Peerless SLS 8's)
Hertz Dieci DCX100 4" coax – Rear FIll (Currently Hi-Vi B3N 3” Full Range)
AE IB15's – Subwoofers (Were Rockford Fosgate P3SD412)
Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd – Subwoofer Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front Tweets and Midrange 
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front Midbass 
Rockford Fosgate P2002 - Rear Fill 
Kinetic HC800 – Rear battery
Kinetic HCNBC and HCPBC - Battery Terminals
Kinetik HC1800 – Main Battery (Currently Optima Yellowtop D51R (9073-167)
Tsunami BT10MP Pos Battery Terminal
Tsunami BT10N Neg Battery Terminal
Tsuanmi FDB8002-ANL Distrobution Block (For main line to rear and alternator (BIG 3)
Tsunami FD8004-MANL Distrobution Block (power supply to all amps)
Tsunami DB8014 Distrobuition Block (ground supply to all amps)
Gepco 61801EZ – RCA Cable
Neutrik NYS352 – RCA Ends
Bosch Relays – Remote, ignition, neons, PAC-TR7
Neons – Blue 
Tsunami X15PRBL1 – 1/0 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN1 – 1/0 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL4 – 4 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN4 – 4 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL8 – 8 Ga. Power Wire 
Tsunami X15GN8 – 8 Ga. Ground Wire
Wire Strip Terminals - For ignition, power, and remote lines
Tsunami SW912Bl-250 – 12 Ga. Speaker Wire 250’ Spool
Carlon conduit ¾” x 25’ – Power run from front battery to rear battery
Tsunami FBW801-ANL – In line fuse holder for power run from front battery to rear.
Fuses – Numerous 
Lots of Sound deadener for cab and rear deck.
Lots of Techflex and heatshrink

****Still looking for an optical cable for the H701 and W505 combo. Would like to do that but if I cant find one, I guess I won't worry about it!

*Plans for future equipment:*

I would like to replace the Rockford Fosgate Amps with either the Arc Audio Mini's or the JL Auido HD amps. I looked into the Hertz amps becasue that's what I'm running and I'm funny that way, the new HP series, but they're freaking expensive and aside of that there are a couple other issues. Number one they're F-ING HUGE!  With my space issues there would be no way I could do it efficiently. Secondly I could get away with 2 amps for the front 3 way setup and the sub with the 5 ch amp, but they don't make a small amp for the rear fill. I could go with an ep amp for that so that's not a big deal. But they're also, from what I'm seeing by overseas prices, F-ING EXPENSIVE, and yes I know I said that already!!!! For now, I'll install what I've got, put some stuff on ebay and see what I can come up with for money to buy new amps. Between the JL's and the Arc's it's only a couple hundred dollars difference. Either way I'm under 2 grand! 

Thoughts on amps to use:

ARC Mini's:
KS 125.4 Mini - Tweets & Mid Range
KS 124.4 Mini - Bridged For Mid Bass
KS 125.2 Mini - Rear Fill
KS 500.1 Mini - Subs 
*$1800.00*

JL Auido's:
Option 1
HD 600/4 - Tweets & Mid Range
HD 600/4 - Bridged for Mid Bass
HD 750/1 - Subs
G Series G2250 - Rear Fill 
*$1680.00*

Option 2 (All will fit in rear deck)
HD 900/5 - Tweets, Mid Range, Subs
HD 600/4 - Bridged for Mid Bass
G Series G2250 - Rear Fill 
*$1680.00*

** Thoughts ** I'm thinking of replacing the Fosgates because I would like to have all amps in the rear deck (one place), so I'm thinking smaller foot print. With the Arc Mini's I can get all four amps in the rear deck no problem. With the HD's I can put 3 in the rear deck and the rear fill amp will go under the passenger seat or something. That will be the JL G2250. So it looks similar. The difference with these vs. the Fosgates is that I cannot get the two four channel amps and the mono sub amp in the rear deck. They're too long. In case someone was asking the question. 

So far I'm happy with the IVA-W505 as my head unit. The only thing I'm not happy with right now is the Ipod situation. I play movies on the ipod but when I stop the car and then get back in later it goes to music mode and I have to go through all the steps to get back to the movie that was playing when the car was last turned off. I'm getting pretty quick at it but it's irritating that I have to do that. I'm sure I'm not doing something right or I've got something hooked up wrong, but I've got to do some research and see if I can fix it or not. 

Also still having issues with getting the steering wheel to program. Everything is hooked up correctly and the right resistor is in but I just can't seem to get it programmed. I'm about ready to scrap the idea or take it to someone, if I can find someone, to program it for me. Any ideas or tips would be appreciated too. 

Aside of those issues I'm happy with my current selection of equipment. I'm waiting for the rear fill speakers to come in and aside of that I'm ready to go with all equipment. Everythig listed above, on the new list, is in my garage and ready for install. I just looked at the AE IB15's last night and just drooled for a while. Can't wait to get those bad boys in!!!

*As for build plans:*

Rebuilding the A pillars better. Using grill cloth to cover and a separate grill cover for the speaker pod itself. Using fiberglass to build the pod. 

Better sealing the doors for mid bass. Using aluminum sheets to seal larg holes. Wrapped in deadener. Add a second layer of deadener to doors, inside and out. Install the hertz MLK 165's. 

Rebuild rear fill pods, to fit 4" hertz. Cover with grill cloth instead of vinyl (currently on). Remember, the only reason I'm using these are because I have kids and the screens. It's a must, and you understand if you have kids yourself. Other wise not worth the hastle. 

Rebuild the headrests for monitors. Trying to find carpet to match or get close to the stock carpet for re wrapping. Going to build a wood fram to angle and attach monitor beasle. It sticks out too far right now and looks "ghetto". Also going to re route the monitor wire through the post in the headrest for stealth look. 

Building an amp rack to go in the rear deck. This will house the two 4 channel amps (amp one: ch 1 & 2 tweets, ch 3 & 4 mid range / amp two: bridged for mid bass) and one 2 channel amp (for rear fill). This will be covered in grill cloth to match everything else and have a hinged cover for adjustments. The grill cloth will allow the amps to breath and stay cool. Not worried since it's in the cab anyway. Again, with kids, it doesn't get too hot in my car. 

Seal off the rear deck for the IB set up. Build an IB wall to house the IB15's. Most likely will do a false floor in the trunk to house the Mono amp for the subs, Alpine H701, Monitor Brain, Sirius Unit, Distro Blocks, Kinetik HC800 (somehow, I'll get back to this.), Fuse Block for HC800, and whatever else I can throw back there space allows. To the HC800, my thought is to use fiberglass and make a mold into the spare tire area. The HC800 will fit into that spot and I'll build the false floor around it so the top of the HC800 is all that's exposed. Then all false floor will be coverd with grill cloth or carpet to match, whatever i decide to do for the beauty panel of the subs. The flase floor will be hinged so I can still access the spare tire. Again, with kids, this is a non negotiable option. 

The Kinetik HC1800 is a lot larger than the Honda Battery tray is meant for. I also have issues with a spot for the dual distribution block for the alterantor and the supply to the rear. So I'm going to rebuild the battery tray using expanded steel, for draining purposes with moisture and because I think it'll look better than just a sheet of metal. The sides will go up 4" from the bottom to hold the battery in place. It'll be bolted in the stock area. Off the tray I'll build an arm extension, if you will, to go to a small tray to attach the dual distribution block. All will be either painted black or a metallic blue. I'm leaning the way of the blue because the Intake I'm looking at is blue, and I'm going to eventually paint the header cover blue. But that's another forum and another time. This is audio. 

I'm looking at covering the floor of the cab and the lid with deadener. Especially the wheel wells. Getting some serious road noise from those areas. I'm looking at deadener and then on top of that liquid stuff. Not sold on that yet but we'll see what happens. Wiring will all be covered with techflex and heat shrink. Soldered joints and terminal blocks where I'm able to. I'm going to rebuild the termial block under the center console. You can see that in this thread a few pages back. I think I can certainly do a better job than what is seen here. 

Finally, for the kid's amusement since I had them before and they are always asking about them, I'm going to install a few blue neon tubes. Two under the dash, one driver and one passenger side, and then two under the front seats, again one on each side. A little rice I know, but whatever! To each is own right!! 

So that's the plan, for the most part. There's some fine details in there but I guess we'll have to wait and see what creativity I can come up with for that stuff. 

Now all I need is some time to start!!!! That's happening very soon! I have one more trip the first weekend in september, DAVE MATTHEWS BAND at The Gorge in Washington, and I'm home for the rest of the year!! We're gonna start some serious progress here soon. I talked to the wife about this project the other day when I got home...:sweatdrop::sweatdrop:....APPROVED!!!! epper: :beerchug:

So stay tunned, cause it's about to go down in here!!! I even bought a new camera recently for this project! 

COMMENTS WELCOME!!!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

dude check out the classifieds...chadillac has a great fn deal on a pair of audison amps,man.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

does the w505 need a special optical cable? isnt it simply toslink to toslink? if so ..i have a spare toslink cable lyin around


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

No it's not toslink, it has a proprietary plug.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yeah the geniuses at Alpine decided that they would make it a special cable specifically for their product and then only made a few of them so we can't seem to get them now! SMART, VEEEERRRRRYYYY SMART MOVE!!!! I only found out about this after I bought the 50.00 KnuKonceptz optical cable. Now if I could find or make an adaptor, whcih I would never know how to do, then i could use that but until then I can't. Oh well.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok everyone, here's what's going on. I'm going to start a new thread for this build. Reason being I'm getting too lost in all the stuff that's gone on and I'm getting ready to start the final "new build" and I want it to be clear. For everyone that's paying attention I'll put the new thread on the bottom in my signature just like this thread. I'll be taking off the PT Cruiser thread though. Not sure what the name will be yet, but I'll think of something. Does it really matter?!?

Thanks all for Sticking around!!

On to the new one!!


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