# Need Dynamat installer to do trunk/rear decklid - San Diego



## Synergism (Jun 22, 2012)

Car is an Audi A5 looking to get trunk/trunk lid and rear decklid done with Dynamat. Just do not have the time, space, or experience to do it myself.

Location is SD area. If I have no other options, may be willing to drive up north to LA.

If anyone in SD has a garage and knows how to do it and can help, I can definitely shoot me a message as well. Thanks in advance!


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## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

I know this is late. I was from SD too and had problems looking to a good shop. That is why I decided to DIY...


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

You guys should check these guys out, seriously.

They are called RC Audio and they are legit... and they have good pricing.

RC Audio - La Jolla - San Diego, CA

I dealt with them all last summer for some projects. I referred a friend of mine just a couple of weeks ago and he had them re-work his Honda Fit. 

They will install Dynamat the right way and are extremely meticulous about what they do, just as I am myself. 

Here is my own customer vehicle... I am about as picky as they come:


Oh YeS by IIGQ4U, on Flickr

Yes, I am a customer, and a very happy one.

They have saved San Diego from the crapshoot of installers and installation companies.


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## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

I'll check this out. Thanks


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

Any other suggestions? RC Audio is out of business.


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## alm001 (Feb 13, 2010)

What makes you think you need it?


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

SouthernSlam2013 said:


> Any other suggestions? RC Audio is out of business.


Yeah, shoot me a PM and I'll link you up with one of them directly.


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

alm001 said:


> What makes you think you need it?


Lots of road noise, especially on the freeway. I only hear a limited amount of music compared to sitting in the garage.


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

IIGQ4U said:


> You guys should check these guys out, seriously.
> 
> They are called RC Audio and they are legit... and they have good pricing.
> 
> ...


Just fixed my previous post.


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

They are no longer in business.


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

Dude, I know. I was basically reposting the pic of my car. Anyway, I am friends with Ryan and Colin and they are still able to work on the side.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

SouthernSlam2013 said:


> Lots of road noise, especially on the freeway. I only hear a limited amount of music compared to sitting in the garage.


Dynamat will only solve a small part of the problem. If your only worried about road noise, you'd be a lot happier with the results from a massed loaded decoupled barrier, something like Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro.


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Dynamat will only solve a small part of the problem. If your only worried about road noise, you'd be a lot happier with the results from a massed loaded decoupled barrier, something like Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro.


Is it possible to get a speaker in a car to have the same dynamic range as if one were to put it into an enclosure? Focal for example makes the Kevlar speakers for autos and bookshelf home speakers. 

What is the best action I should take to approach this in the car environment? Is dynamat and a closed cell liner the best I can practically do?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

A closed cell liner wont do much of anything aside from reducing rattle. You need a dense barrier to block outside noise. Vibration deadener is not a very good barrier. 

As far as dynamic range without an enclosure, thats not so much a matter of enclosure style, but noise level in the car


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> A closed cell liner wont do much of anything aside from reducing rattle. You need a dense barrier to block outside noise. Vibration deadener is not a very good barrier.
> 
> As far as dynamic range without an enclosure, thats not so much a matter of enclosure style, but noise level in the car


Would you apply the luxury liner to all surfaces that were treated with the dynamat like material?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

To be effective, something like luxury liner needs to have 100% coverage, or as close to it as possible. Check out Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown for more info on mass loaded barriers.


As far as vibration dampers, like dynamat, there are a lot of different views, and not much objective info out there right now. Some people say you need 100% coverage, some people think you only need 25% to be effective. I'm working on testing that theory with an accelerometer and RTA, after I get done with the product comparison.


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> To be effective, something like luxury liner needs to have 100% coverage, or as close to it as possible. Check out Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown for more info on mass loaded barriers.
> 
> 
> As far as vibration dampers, like dynamat, there are a lot of different views, and not much objective info out there right now. Some people say you need 100% coverage, some people think you only need 25% to be effective. I'm working on testing that theory with an accelerometer and RTA, after I get done with the product comparison.


How many layers to do typically like to apply for the dynamat-like material and the MLV foam?

Is the luxury liner pro mold and mildew resistant, esp. in the doors?


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

Do people have any preference of luxury liner pro vs. dynaliner


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Dynaliner and luxury liner arent comparable. Dynaliner is a foam, which wont do a good job at blocking noise. Its for putting between things that rattle together, despite what dynamat advertises it for. Luxury liner is a heavy vinyl barrier, great for blocking noise.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

To give you an idea of effectiveness at blocking noise, the half inch thick dynaliner weighs .16 pounds per square foot. Luxury liner weighs 1 pound per square foot, at 1/8 inch thick. Density is what blocks noise. You could also use 1/64" thick lead, which is also 1 pound per square foot.


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Dynaliner and luxury liner arent comparable. Dynaliner is a foam, which wont do a good job at blocking noise. Its for putting between things that rattle together, despite what dynamat advertises it for. Luxury liner is a heavy vinyl barrier, great for blocking noise.


Does one need dynaliner between the inner and out metals of the front doors containing the speakers in order to deaden any speaker reflections?

I am not sure that dynamat on both sides followed by an MLV like Luxury Liner Pro on the inner sheet dynamat will promote the full dynamic range of the speakers.


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## jon w. (Nov 14, 2008)

for those of you seeking high-quality design, build, fabrication, and tuning in san diego, please consider whitledge designs. to learn about my products and services please visit:

www.whitledgedesigns.com

here are a couple video testimonials regarding the "Magic Bus", my demo vehicle:

Magic Bus Listening Experience - YouTube

Earl Zausmer listens to the Magic Bus - YouTube

warmest regards,
jon
ps. i prefer direct contact via email and mobile phone, not PMs.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

Let's make this simple.
First off, you should be searching all these terms on DIYMA for more info.
There is tons on this topic.

Sometimes pics say more than a posting so here's mine done using Alpha Damp and Luxury Liner Pro.

Alpha damp installed




Luxury Liner Pro installed


All joints taped and sealed



Done.


Alpha Damp can be purchased from the owner of this forum by clicking the Alpha Damp box above.
Luxury Liner Pro can be purchased from Second Skin Audio which is also a vendor on this forum.
The tape is 2" aluminum from Home Depot.

Now I ask you to read up and reconsider doing it yourself.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## jon w. (Nov 14, 2008)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR's work is exemplary, and should serve as a model for those to follow. this *IS* something you can do yourself!

as you can see from my build log, the Magic Bus was done similarly, although i used acoustic cotton (with an integral, internal mass loaded barrier) on the walls and ceiling for sound barrier and thermal insulation duties.

there are many fine brands out there, but i endorse Cascade Audio Engineering's products.

jon
www.whitledgedesigns.com


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> Let's make this simple.
> First off, you should be searching all these terms on DIYMA for more info.
> There is tons on this topic.
> 
> ...


What did you do with the doors?


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

jon w. said:


> PPI-ART COLLECTOR's work is exemplary, and should serve as a model for those to follow. this *IS* something you can do yourself!
> 
> as you can see from my build log, the Magic Bus was done similarly, although i used acoustic cotton (with an integral, internal mass loaded barrier) on the walls and ceiling for sound barrier and thermal insulation duties.
> 
> ...


Do do I need an acoustical absorbing foam between the two sections of sheet metal of the door after apply dynamat to the inner and out portions, followed by a MLV with a bonded CCF applied to the inner portion. 

After all of this, I would think I have created an echo chamber that sound waves from the speaker would reflect between the two metal treated sections.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

jon w. said:


> PPI-ART COLLECTOR's work is exemplary, and should serve as a model for those to follow. this *IS* something you can do yourself!
> 
> as you can see from my build log, the Magic Bus was done similarly, although i used acoustic cotton (with an integral, internal mass loaded barrier) on the walls and ceiling for sound barrier and thermal insulation duties.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jon. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

SouthernSlam2013 said:


> What did you do with the doors?


Same thing.
I placed Alpha Damp on the inside of the outer door skin and on the inner door panel. I then will be putting a sheet of Luxury Liner Pro (haven't got this far yet) between the door and inner trim panel completely sealing and closing up any openings between the inside of the door and the cab 
Now I can do this because there's sufficient space between the trim panel and the inner door panel to fit LLP with proper trimming.
Not all cars can be done this way and may require a more creative approach.







Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

SouthernSlam2013 said:


> Do do I need an acoustical absorbing foam between the two sections of sheet metal of the door after apply dynamat to the inner and out portions, followed by a MLV with a bonded CCF applied to the inner portion.
> 
> After all of this, I would think I have created an echo chamber that sound waves from the speaker would reflect between the two metal treated sections.


This part is debatable.
Some say it's needed to absorb the backside soundwaves and some say it won't do any good.
Jon is phenomenal with sound absorbing materials having great success with it in his bus and would be the DIYMA member to ask this question of.
As for my build, I will be using Focal Black Hole tiles behind my door mounted midbass speakers.
You're call on whether you want to or not.

Focal foam tiles


Peel and stick backing



Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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