# Another WRX Install



## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Been busy over the past few weeks. The idea of going active got me back into the car stereo bug, my new equipment consists of:

1. Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 midrange
2. Seas 27TFFNC/G tweeter
3. DIMYA
4. Diamond Audio D3 400.2 bridged for DIYMA
5. Diamond Audio D3 400.4 for front doors
6. Other supporting goodies

First weekend was for the amp rack. I wanted to keep the pass-through but ends up the amps were too long for standing up lengthwise on either side so I decided to go across the back seat. 1/2in MDF, some carpet and using some nice tabs on supports on some support braces left me with this:
























The following weekend I ran the necessary cables, all from Knu Konceptz. I had a hard time with routing things at the back seat, but managed to only have two intersections of power/signal and those were made at 90 degree angles. I used zip-ties and double sided tape hold downs aplenty! Taking out the interior helped a bunch.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Cont...































I broke the rules just a bit by running ~18in of 4ga to a Knu Konceptz fuse block on the firewall behind the intercooler. Was a nice solid spot to leave it, and I can get to the fuses without taking the intercooler out so that's a big plus. I wasn't sure about the blue wires to begin with, but I liked their addition of a bit of color after I got through.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Earlier this week I tackled the doors and made some new spacers, spaced the window rails out a bit with washers, etc in order to fit the Mach 5 Audio drivers. After about 5hrs of work I tried to put the door panels back on and they hit  . Ends up the 04 cars have less room up top than later cars, so I'll search for some late-model door panels over winter and install those so I don't need to hack up mine.

I proceeded with the sub box. Nothing fancy, just in the rear driver's side corner and something ya'll have seen plenty of times.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Nothing to much for today. Kept going on the fiberglass and added some ensolate to the doors. I'd previously (2yrs ago) peel 'n sealed them, no issues so far with that. I hooked up my Alpine Type-S coaxs to the amp and will use them as my midrange drivers until I find new door panels. Not exactly what I wanted, but it'll due over winter.















So - I plan on carpeting the box tomorrow and loading the DIYMA and will try to fgure out what do with my tweeters in the a-pillars. So far, ok - not great since the Mach 5 Audio midranges didn't fit - but i'll figure stuff out. Can't wait to fire everythign up!

"Amish"


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## sqkev (Mar 7, 2005)

that's too bad with the midrange
how much more space do you need though? You could always end up going with a thinner baffle ring

I like the amprack, looks pretty clean


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

I like the work done so far.

but why is there a bunch of wiring coiled up under the rear seat? decided not to cut it to length?


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## demon2091tb (May 30, 2005)

Very nice so far, keep up the good work and it'll look very professional when done.

If those are only speaker wires wrapped up, i would cut them to length, but with some slack if you'd like, if there signal wires, doubtfull, don't ruin the signal stuff.

I very much like your amp rack, wish mine was that clean.

Make sure that sub enclosure has some thick walls, personally i'd do close to an 1/8" or a 3/4 of that, not sure how much that amp puts out, but rigidity is key.


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

LOVE the fabric you decided to wrap the woofer encloser in.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks guys.

As far as midrange drivers - with a 3/4" spacer, about another 1/8" of speaker grill plastic hacked up there too and 1/8" of washers spacking back the window track I cleared by about 1/16" on the driver's side, by -1/16" on the passenger's side  . The 02-04 panels suck with a decent amount of space in the lower 2/3 of the 6.5" and then they curve inwards by 3/4" or more on the top 1/3. So - I need about 1" of total spacer, which sounds doable with the 05+ panels.

As far a swiring, a majority of that is RCA. On the driver's side I left some power wire since I never know what I'll want to change in the future (aka - maybe I reeeaallly want that rear seat pass-through), but the other stuff just came in the generic Knu Konceptz amp kit. The lower half of the rear seat is entirely foam, so I'm not worried about pinching or damage to cables.

As far as the box - I've got at least 1/8" of glass everywhere. It's hard to see - but the rear section has lots of curves and bends, so the glass is even stronger there. I figure if I can push down on the thing with all 200lbs of my body weight and not hear any creaking or flexing it should be ok. The only issue is I got some shrinkage when I resined the fleece  . It was in the 40s during the day here, 30s at night so I mixed it "hot." That's the only thing I can think of, after doweling the thing up I placed it in the trunk and I had perfect fitment. So, I'm going to grab some foam and spray adhesive that to the box, then carpet over the whole thing to fill in my gap. Damn! Oh well, more to learn with next time.

Thanks again guys, will post more pics as things progress....


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## Finleyville (Jun 17, 2005)

unpredictableacts said:


> LOVE the fabric you decided to wrap the woofer encloser in.


Me too, me too...

Very nice job so far. I too am a proponent of a simple, clean install. Keep up the good work.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Amish said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> As far as midrange drivers - with a 3/4" spacer, about another 1/8" of speaker grill plastic hacked up there too and 1/8" of washers spacking back the window track I cleared by about 1/16" on the driver's side, by -1/16" on the passenger's side  . The 02-04 panels suck with a decent amount of space in the lower 2/3 of the 6.5" and then they curve inwards by 3/4" or more on the top 1/3. So - I need about 1" of total spacer, which sounds doable with the 05+ panels.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty sure you just need longer door pins to finish off the install of the mids. How deep in the mounting depth?

<-- 02 WRX Owner


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## ocuriel (Oct 7, 2005)

Nice, Very nice! How much?


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## tard (Jul 13, 2006)

i just did comps in a wrx a week ago or so. i had a total of about 1 1/4" of spacer and i shaved down the plastic lip on the panel. didn't resort to having to space the window channel back.

i took the factory speaker and cut about 1/8" +/- section off the back, that mounts to the door. i used it for 1-spacer, 2- to help shed the water off the mid. between the mdf ring next to it, i had some thin foam sheets i cut circles out of. used them as 1- a sealing gasket between the wood and plastic piece, 2- had the inner hole cut a little small as an extra piece to keep the water on the inside of the door.

then i had to do some custom/rig bracket to hold the new tweeter in the factory spot and still clear the panel.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm interested to see what you do with that tweeter as I was thinking about doing the same thing.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

you might want to try these with your door panel. I have not used them personally, but I hear they work well.

http://www.iaperformance.com/produc...d/233?osCsid=4b59d466564b4e7980cd85b86baba788

Justin


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Right. ^^^



02bluesuperroo said:


> I'm pretty sure you just need longer door pins to finish off the install of the mids. How deep in the mounting depth?
> 
> <-- 02 WRX Owner


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

ocuriel - no clue, a little here, a lot there, a little more here, etc. I'd rather not think about it since this was meant to be a "simple" upgrade  

tard - what model year? the problem I'm having is with the upper 1/3 of the speaker shown below. I can tell you that a 3/4" spacer does not allow the door to go back on due to hitting in this location on my car. It looks like the 05+ cars have a circular extrusion in this area allow more spacer. I'd love to hear about anything that might help though!!!








Blue - will keep pics rolling when I tackle the tweeter.

SQ_Baru - I hate those things!!! I already picked up a set a while ago and while installing them had half of the little "christmas tree limbs" crack off, leaving me with a less than stellar fit. I ripped them out and went back to the stockers. If there is anything I can do to NOT use those I will. Just sorta my own personal fight  . We'll see though, might come down to it.


Managed to get some speaker box carpeting done today, and if I say so myself I think it looks pretty darn good! Ha! Added a little 1" foam on the side of the box that "shrunk," this actually worked well.








Then continued with careful stretching, spraying and viola - completed box.















While all of that was drying I ensolated the trunk floor. Can't wait to drive the car and see what a difference it makes!








Tomorrow I plan on actually installing the sub. I still want to measure box volume, need to finish up wiring (sub was just screwed in with two screws as a test) and take a break. Actually - I need to solder wires to the tweeters and then I can at least lay them on the dash and make some noise. Figure next weekend will be the one where I actually try to play music. Whee!


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## tard (Jul 13, 2006)

it was an '05. from the looks of yours, i would have been in a tight spot if it's door panel had as bad a curve in the upper portion as yours does. 

without getting custom or using a shallow depth driver, i don't have any simple fix's. you've already spaced the mid out and the window channel back, which are the same first 2 steps i would have done.


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

SQ_Baru said:


> you might want to try these with your door panel. I have not used them personally, but I hear they work well.
> 
> http://www.iaperformance.com/produc...d/233?osCsid=4b59d466564b4e7980cd85b86baba788
> 
> Justin


The old versions were great...the new ones SUCK!!!!

Injection molded plastic that is extremely light, and is a ***** to mount your speakers to them as the plastic is so thin screws just pop out of them unless you use the few reinforced screw points thatdon't line up with anything.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Daishi - that's the link to the long door pins, the $14 in shipping charges version  . 

I might be in a bad spot with even my current plan, which was to find some 05+ door panels, separate the lower halves and then reconnect to my upper halves (to keep interior matching), as it looks like the newer panels integrate part of the arm rest in the lower half, which my car does not. Of course.

So - I'll run my Alpine Type-S coaxs as my midrange driver through winter and tackle this thing again in the summer. If any of you Subaru people have been reading through the audio forum on NASIOC - I'm tempted to make a similar pod to what Audio Integrations did with their 05 shop car, something that I can screw into the door panel and not need worry about painting or vinyling. It'll be tough though, and I'm not that motivated now  .

Thanks for the input anyway tard, at least I know what I can do with "modern" door panels if I go that route!


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

Amish said:


> Daishi - that's the link to the long door pins, the $14 in shipping charges version  .
> 
> I might be in a bad spot with even my current plan, which was to find some 05+ door panels, separate the lower halves and then reconnect to my upper halves (to keep interior matching), as it looks like the newer panels integrate part of the arm rest in the lower half, which my car does not. Of course.
> 
> ...


DOH hahaha. Should have clicked the link. Yeah those pins are so so especially at the $14 shipping cost. They do the job...I have them myself on the car but they slip in and out quite a bit. They will fix your problem though, otherwise you'll need to cut out the door panel grill and fix another gril in it's place. By doing that you should actually get enough clearance, and doing it cleanly nobody will notice. Otherwise the AI way would be the best.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Looking good. Nice and clean.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Ok, a little update from work I did over last week. The mids won't fit in the stock location, and I didn't want to do a whole door build so I made some bolt-on pods that I hope will work. I still need to cut the pods/doors up so things fit, and make some grills. I hope to tackle that this week and upcoming weekend.

1. I glassed the front corners of the doors to make athe back section, then after things dried trimmed it up so I could work with them. Also transfered over some lines from the factory grill molded into the door panel so I would make sure that section was covered with my fiberglass pod.








2. Made some MDF rings (inner flat section for speaker mounting, rounded outter section for grill) and aligned them a bit to fire the mids towards the middle of the car. Postioned the ring as low as possible without overhanging the factory panel too much. This puts the center of the speaker pods as close to the center of the factory door cutouts as possible.















3. I then drilled some holes for mounting bolts (1/4-20), glassed them in and cut the pod so the rear side follows the speaker donut round and the front side follows 1/4" outside the factory molded in speaker grill.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

4. Next step was to fleece the pods and get some glass down on them. I didn't go hog wild here, they aren't really a structural member and I didn't want to wrap too much fleece/glass around the corners and rear of the pods so they'd fit the door as close as possible. I then added a bit of Bondo to smooth them out.






















5. I wasn't sure how I wanted to finish them, but figured paint was easiest and also added the least amount of material to the rear of the pods for better fitment (as mentioned above). I used SEM high build primer, 3 even coats of SEM light chip guard texture paint and then a few coats of SEM paint that matches the color of the door panels ~95%. Figure having them down near my feet, and eventually with black grills on them, will prevent them from looking "odd." They look better in person than in pics due to the flash.





























6. Next step is the grill. As you can see here I jacked up the rings I made, 1/2" MDF rounded over doesn't have much strength when trying to drill a 1/4" hole in it. I might try another set of rings, drilling the holes first then routing the rings. Not sure of I'll go with 1/2" MDF again (I like this best) or 3/4" for strength. Also not sure how I'll attach them. Right now I have a set of male-female barb things from PE, but also have some neo magnets. I might find some small diameter dowels to use as my position locators and then the neo magnets to hold them on.








Overall I'm really happy with how they came out. Hope to get some seat time this coming week!


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

Wow, I'm really liking those pods. If I go to an 8" driver now I know it'll work  

Post this over on NASIOC...guys need to see this.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

I did that right after here  . For reference, the OD of the MDF ring I used was 8.5in.


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## couchflambeau (Apr 18, 2006)

Think mdf is probably not going to be your answer.... for the thickness you're going to cut to and try to put screws into it, you're probably going to have another blow out. since you have a router, have you considered using some kind of 1/2" plastic? I wish I could tell you what type it was but I've seen it used for inexpensive cutting boards....

If you do try MDF again... T-nuts might help. 

I am a bit concerned at how sealed up those are.... Are you going to vent them into the door? I think if you leave em as is you're going to lose any hope of getting midbass out of em..... 

Nice fibreglass work though...

Not trying to rain on your parade.... just my input.

I'm considering some custom lower panels myself eventually... (04' STi, same issue with the goofy shaped factory grills that already interfere with my 5 1/4's) Soon as I get my interior finished, thinking of going back and replacing my front stage with three ways.... perhaps an 8" in a custom door panel, then 4" or 5" + tweeter arrangement in the kick, then replace my center channel with the same mid/tweeter combination to voicematch the front stage, then trying my hand at a custom passive network to run the whole thing since I'm not sure adding another amp for actively crossed over midbasses is feasible. 

Appreciate the thread though.... starting to jog my mind as to possible directions to take...


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Very nice work. I used to have a Forester so I know about what a pain the shallow doors are.

I agree with Couch about venting them into the door. There doesn't look like theres enough room for any kind of midbass...


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Yes, yes guys - they will be vented into the doors. I made these back home in GA while the speakers/car were still up north in RI. I wanted to keep as much of the rear fiberglass as possible to maintain the structural rigidity of the door panel while still allowing the mid to breath/pass through into the door itself and didn't have the driver to base my cutout on. That's what I'll be working on this week. In addition, I'll be adding a layer of foam between the pod/door panel to help seal the two together.

Thanks for the idea of plastic couch! I've got a decent amount of scrap MDF sitting around though, so I'll probably still tackle one or two more grill rings with that buying something else.

Hopefully I'll have some pics this weekend of them in the car with speakers mounted, at least. Even better would be if I had grills on them.

Thanks for the input guys!


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

Looks great man, nice job. Did you have to cut the door panel at all? I know you drilled holes to mount the pods, but other than that the door panels are intact?


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

I knew I shouldn't have put pics up until I was done  , I think there is a bit of confusion. I still need to cut out the back sides of the pod and the plastic door panel for the speaker to fit through. So sorry Subaru guys, this will require permanent modification of your door panels. The plus side is that you should be able to fit the deepest of 6.5" drivers in there.


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## couchflambeau (Apr 18, 2006)

Always found it funny how paranoid some Subaru owners over on NASIOC are about cutting panels in their car.... like it's a $150k Porsche or something.... lol!! It's an inexpensive car and door panels are cheap comparitively.... cut/drill away!!!


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

high density polyethylene is a good replacement for MDF to prevent it blowing out. A 24"x48"x0.5" is around $50. It's won't fall apart, mold, or fall to pieces like MDF may i the door environment. If you go the plastic route DO NOT use delrin. Delrin, although pretty easy to tool will absorb water and actually swell...don't need that to happen.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

where would you find HDP?


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## Daishi (Apr 18, 2006)

www.usplastics.

I ordered my acrylic from somewhere else and they have the HDPE too...just can't think of the name for the life of me. Let me hunt through all my bookmarks and see if I saved it.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

you can also get phenolic which (in this case) is every bit as good as UHMWPE.

except you can get large sheets of it from target for under ten dollars in the kitchen section (look for cutting boards )

sidenote, they make GREAT router mounting plates too!


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Do all of these plastics rout like MDF? Do I need a special bit? Not sure if the stuff will chip away or melt and gum the bit up. I might try my second set of MDF rings this afternoon (as I mentioned before, I've got a decent amount of spare MDF left that I have nothing planned for), if it doesn't work I'll head to Target and pick something up.


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## couchflambeau (Apr 18, 2006)

That's the stuff I was thinkin of.... thanks WR!



Whiterabbit said:


> you can also get phenolic which (in this case) is every bit as good as UHMWPE.
> 
> except you can get large sheets of it from target for under ten dollars in the kitchen section (look for cutting boards )
> 
> sidenote, they make GREAT router mounting plates too!


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Well, managed to get the grills done. I drilled the holes first, the sheet of MDF gave enough support that I didn't have any ripout or tears. I then routered the donuts out and rounded off the edges. I screwed up with the router table








but managed to fix it with Bondo.








Grills were painted black and then I hot glued the grill cloth around the back. Slap in the tiny grill buttons and you get this:








I cut the hole out of the back pod so the driver would fit through and did some touch up with the paint. Need to do a final color coat tomorrow as the humidity is really screwing with the finish. I'll test fit to the doors, again, and if things are a go I'll cut the doors up and do the final install. Yahoo! The end is in sight.....


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## bobditts (Jul 19, 2006)

looks pretty good. how well do those grill posts work?


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks. I've only tried to pull them off twice now, they seem pretty good. The hardest part was trying to get both halves to line up. The male end needs a 3/8" recessed hole, the female a 7/16". I ended up placing the grill on top of the pod and then drilling through both with the smallest bit I've got to create a common axis. Even then, when I test fitted the parts things were misaligned a bit. The male part bends enough to allow some misfit, so I got lucky there. It was really a toss-up, on one hand I wanted to see the speakers, on the other I like having them protected by something. I liked your suede setup Bob, I'd be tempted to do that if I tried these again.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Wow! Will writeup more tomorrow, but got everything in place tonight. Awesome. Soundstage widened amazingly, midbass response is the best I've ever had in a car. And this is only with 10min of playing around, still need to break out the laptop and match levels/EQ. Wow. I was so pissed before because things sounded like crap, this has totally changed my eyes. DIY for life!!


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## jeffrey (Jan 3, 2007)

I've seen a lot of custom doors and those look great!


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## rekd0514 (Sep 24, 2006)

Yes those blend in perfectly. You did a great job! They look like they belong there from the factory to me.


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

Looks great man, they blend well and look like they don't intrude too much on space down there. You want to make another set for me?  You could skip the grills, I could use the ones that came with my comps.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

I don't understand where you are getting the depth from? I know you cut the bottom out of the pod but don't you hit the door then? Did you cut the door? Looks very nice.

Edit: Found it.



> I still need to cut out the back sides of the pod and the plastic door panel for the speaker to fit through. So sorry Subaru guys, this will require permanent modification of your door panels.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

I need to pull the mids out and take a picture, maybe I'll try that this weekend just so I can add more detail to this. There is a ton of room now, and surprisingly no vibrations coming from the doors. Interesting!


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

A little more history to help people out if they choose to go this route. I first cut the rear of the pods out enough to get the speaker to slide through and have room to breath. In addition, I threw some tape-backed foam to the pod so it'd seal to the door. This pic shows the foam around the edges, but I later changed it to just around the cutout so the pod would sit more flush to the door panel.








I then traced this hole onto the door panel and went to town with the dremel. Kinda scary, but since I'd already drilled holes I was past the point of no return. 








Here is a pic of the pod and panel placed together. All I needed to do was tighten the nuts on the back of the 1/4-20s and install in the car. I was surprised at how well the pods and panel fit together and maintained their structural rigidity. I get a little flex when doors are closed hard, otherwise there is no additional noise and no rattles when crankin' tunes.








Still want to grab some pics with a ruler up to the pod to show depth (plus I'm curious to see what I can upgrade too!  ), sometime soon...


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

any pics of the mach drivers installed


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## shinjohn (Feb 8, 2006)

Nice job there, fellow Suby enthusiast!
I think your door pods look great; they really integrate well.
Funny, it amazes me that alot of Suby owners are really into car audio, but to be honest, WRXs are not very install friendly IMO. To fit a decently large mid bass, you have to go to great lengths (as shown by your work) to make it happen. I commend you for your efforts. Keep up the good work!


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Those look real good. Very nice integration.


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## Finleyville (Jun 17, 2005)

Very nicely done. Any work that looks stock is difficult to do. You accomplished the difficult well.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks guys. Of course I went ahead and upgraded my sub amp so the rack on the back seat won't work  , off to the drawing board!


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

any updates?


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Yeah, the interior has been out of the car for about 4 months  . I picked up a Sundown SAZ1500D for sub duty and recently bought a SAX100.4 for the front stage. Right now the amps are sliding around in the trunk, the rear seat is out and the tweeters are duct taped up to the a-pillars. It's ghettofabulous! Ha

Main thing holding me up is the direction I want to take for the subs. The DIYMA is great, but just not ballsy enough for a Stage 2 WRX. I'm trying to decide between a pair of the 15" Fi IB drivers or a pair of 10" Dayton HOs ported.

I think I'll wait until I figure out my tax return and it gets a bit warmer until I decide. I really should get to work on those a-pillars though, but why do things now when you can procrastinate?


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

Amish said:


> The DIYMA is great, but just not ballsy enough for a Stage 2 WRX.


I hear that.. also stage 2 WRX..


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## illnastyimpreza (Oct 25, 2006)

hadn't seen this thread...

awesome job !

you have inspired me to do this in my Legacy...


that is if I can't figure out how to move the window back in its track away from the back of my speaker...


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

illnastyimpreza said:


> hadn't seen this thread...
> 
> awesome job !
> 
> ...



you put 2-3 washers between the window track and the inside of the inner door panel. then bolt the track back up.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Amish said:


>


I like how the tweeter ends up being directly over the mid.


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## big67 (Mar 7, 2008)

Nice install, 
I really need to install a nice system in my Forester.


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## big67 (Mar 7, 2008)

placenta said:


> I hear that.. also stage 2 WRX..


Is the "Boxer Rumble" too loud and drowning out the bass? Was thinking of doing 1 10" in my modded forester.


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## Amish (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks guys - surprised the cobwebs got dusted off this before I got started installing the new gear!

I tried the washer trick. 1) it didn't get me enough room for my mids 2) I just didn't like what it did to window alignment. Probably just my car, but it looked a tad funny and I just wasn't satisfied with that.

big67 - yeah, I think it's just that. I'm an, ahem, catless Stage 2 so it may vary depending on what downpipe you choose. Exhaust is the Stromung so it's not terribly loud, just deep. I had a ported 10" sub in my older Subaru with a loud exhaust and it was sufficient, I just think that the sealed DIYMA isn't enough in this case. It's great in my quiet second vehicle, just not enough for the Subaru. I like my bass a little more pronounced in the car though. I like everything to sound clean, but the car is a "fun" spot for me to listen to tunes and sometimes I like a little more bump.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

big67 said:


> Is the "Boxer Rumble" too loud and drowning out the bass? Was thinking of doing 1 10" in my modded forester.


not with stock cat back.


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## illnastyimpreza (Oct 25, 2006)

placenta said:


> you put 2-3 washers between the window track and the inside of the inner door panel. then bolt the track back up.


awesome thanks, I'll give it a try. hopefully its enough...



big67 said:


> Is the "Boxer Rumble" too loud and drowning out the bass? Was thinking of doing 1 10" in my modded forester.


Profiler Alignment

another reason why performance and true high def audio don't really mix well in a car 

unless you get a QTP cutout


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## GeorgeDiego (Apr 1, 2008)

Just saw this thread and I am really impressed by the door pods, those are really sweet!

I hear you on the noise issues. My stage 2 bug eye currently has a Turboxs stealth back and I'm using a GT Spec header (which actually made the car quieter  ) but I am installing the RFL muffler this week (I really wanted a full 3" exhaust!). I'm crossing my fingers that having the catted system and a TON of sound deadening lets me enjoy my system 

-Geo


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

GeorgeDiego said:


> Just saw this thread and I am really impressed by the door pods, those are really sweet!
> 
> I hear you on the noise issues. My stage 2 bug eye currently has a Turboxs stealth back and I'm using a GT Spec header (which actually made the car quieter  )


Is your header equal length? The reason its quieter is because you take away the boxer rumble when you put on equal length headers. The rumble is caused by the fact that the distance between the exhaust ports is so _unequal_  




GeorgeDiego said:


> but I am installing the RFL muffler this week (I really wanted a full 3" exhaust!). I'm crossing my fingers that having the catted system and a TON of sound deadening lets me enjoy my system


It won't, that exhaust is really loud


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## GeorgeDiego (Apr 1, 2008)

02bluesuperroo said:


> Is your header equal length? The reason its quieter is because you take away the boxer rumble when you put on equal length headers. The rumble is caused by the fact that the distance between the exhaust ports is so _unequal_


LOL, it's unequal, that's why I was surprised. 



02bluesuperroo said:


> It won't, that exhaust is really loud


I was afraid of that :/ I just hope it's tolerable. I got a great deal on it and fugured if I can't stand it I could just sell it. I heard it on another car and it seemed tolerable through the cat. I wll also be adding some Second Skin heat wave on top of the dynomat already in my trunk to try to calm things down. I had a Trans Am with a high compression stroker motor that was LOUD and adding the SS damplifier and heatwave made a HUGE difference.


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## raft211 (Oct 4, 2007)

Very nicely done. I asked in another WRX thread, but I'll ask you too. How much deadener did you end up using? Do you think you need more? Could you have gotten away with less?


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