# JBL MS-62c First impressions. These surprised the hell out of me!



## Audioguy36

Ok, I do not normally post reviews on DIYMA but I am pretty excited about these components and figured I would share my experience with them. First, some of my previous commercial component sets I have used in my Infiniti qx4 include: Alpine SPX-17pro's , MB Quart PSD 216's, Rainbow Profi Vanadium CS365, Kef Kar series uni-q 6.5's. I have also ran a 3 way active set up using the peerless sls 6.5, Fountek FR88EX, and the seas 27TAFNC/G. I have been into car/home audio for many years and am also an avid drummer. Ok, so I am not coming from Sony Xplode gear or the legendary Roadmaster  . Lets get on to my set up. My source is a Pioneer DEH-80prs. The amp I am running is an ARC XXK-4150. two channels running to the fronts and two channels bridged to my single phoenix gold rsd 10, a nice subwoofer for the dollar. 


On with it. I have been content with my Kef's for a while but, The ferrofluid in one of my tweeters dried up, a common problem with older Kef tweeters. This left me looking for a new set to keep me happy during rush hour. I did not want to spend very much as I was just looking for something to get me by until I figure out something serious. Anyways, It was between these and some rainbow slc265.ng's. They share the same basket. I thought that was strange. I have had a few rainbow set ups and have only been impressed with the profi line so I kind of just said what the hell and ordered the jbls for $187.00 via Ebay. 


So they get here a few days ago and to my surprise they seemed very well built. The woofers build quality seemed much higher than the other commercial sets I've ran, other than the SPX17-pro's which are about the same. The tweeters are titanium inverted domes, similar to focal, but not in sound. Good build quality all around. Of course, the crossovers are not as impressive as the type x's but they are solid.

I managed to get them installed the same night and have been listening to them for the last two days. 



So far, I would have to say that these are the highest value purchase I have made in car audio. Being a drummer, cymbal accuracy is very important to me. I had always heard that MB Quart Titanium tweeters were the best at this aspect. Hah. In my install the MB's were good on certain songs but fell apart while trying to reproduce anything complex. Miles Davis, decent. Nirvana, Ouch! I do not know who made the tweeter in this set but without a doubt, these JBL tweeters have more air and leading edge detail than any other compact tweeter I have ever used. I do not know how they sound so good. No Focal/MB Quart harshness what so ever! They remind me of the 
cal26 titans but without the grain and fatigue at louder listening levels. 


The mids perform very well. They have the midrange accuracy of the SPX-17pro's and the mid bass of the rainbows. One thing that I enjoyed about the MB Quarts was that even though their excursion capabilities were far less than the others, they managed to have a snap and awesome upper midbass-lower midrange. Toms always sounded full with the MB Quarts. The Alpines were the weakest in that area. Rainbow's and JBL's are right in the middle. I think the JBL's can go a little bit lower but I don't plan on high passing below 63hz/12db. 



Overall I am astonished so far. It is a nice relief to not have to spend $500-700 on a two way "commercial' set up to reach acceptable fidelity. If anyone else has used these I would love to hear what you think of them. 

Well that's it for now. It's late.....


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## IBcivic

Nice review, thanx for posting


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## Jroo

You said you ran a SLS in you QX4?. You didnt have an issues with the depth assuming you didnt do any special door build. I ask because I have a 04 Pathfinder and I am having issues with the depth in the front door.


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## jonnyanalog

Glad to hear these worked out for you. These are high on my list to replace my Pioneers, which didn't really impress me all that much.


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## rexroadj

I have been saying since these came out.....These are possibly the best $300 comp set ever made. Yes, I know thats a bold statement but when you hear them.....there is just no fault to be had. I agree with %100 percent of what was said. I was about to purchase these for my vehicle but really wanted something I could mount as a coax and found a set of GTI's at around the same price so I pulled the trigger on it. If I get a second vehicle these will be purchase #1.

JBL NAILED it with these! I have seen them online for $190.00 :0 You cant get better for that!


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## caver50

rexroadj said:


> I have been saying since these came out.....These are possibly the best $300 comp set ever made. Yes, I know thats a bold statement but when you hear them.....there is just no fault to be had. I agree with %100 percent of what was said. I was about to purchase these for my vehicle but really wanted something I could mount as a coax and found a set of GTI's at around the same price so I pulled the trigger on it. If I get a second vehicle these will be purchase #1.
> 
> JBL NAILED it with these! I have seen them online for $190.00 :0 You cant get better for that!


Do you like them better than the 608's


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## rugdnit

Not going to lie... When I first saw these I shyed away from them. Thanx for taking the time to review them. Other than issues with my DSP I am extremely happy with my other JBL products.


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## yuri

nice review , i would love to know how they compare to your kef uni-q's and are the uni-q's the original ones with the black cones or the later blue cones ? 
thanks


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## Audioguy36

Quote: nice review , i would love to know how they compare to your kef uni-q's and are the uni-q's the original ones with the black cones or the later blue cones ?
thanks 


The Kef's I have are the black cones. The Kef's excelled at vocals and in the midrange. They have decent bass/midbass. The highs are solid but sound a bit smeared in comparison to the JBL's. The JBL's have much better bass thn the Kef's. The kef's have the most natural sounding voices and midrange I've heard in a car so far. I like the fact that the JBL's manage very good air and detail without the addition of harshness.


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## Audioguy36

Quote: You said you ran a SLS in you QX4?. You didnt have an issues with the depth assuming you didnt do any special door build. I ask because I have a 04 Pathfinder and I am having issues with the depth in the front door.




I run an MDF baffle set up. That window can be tricky without a deep baffle.


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## rexroadj

caver50 said:


> Do you like them better than the 608's


Thats tough......I suppose the answer would be yes with the exception being low frequency extension and authority. I have not found another set that is equal or greater in those aspects...they are just freaks of nature in that realm!

In the end its all about tuning and install anyway. What is special about the MS set is that they are incredibly forgiving when it comes to install and tuning (not a whole lot is required for superb sound) In that aspect they remind me of the Boston SPZ's.... (a great deal of engineering and $ was spent on that aspect with the bostons)

I dont see any set out there being comparable in the same or moderately higher price range. Again, if I were doing something other then my 81' Renegade I would have bought the MS in a heart beat! 
Add to that, the PPI Phantom amps and you have the best deals in car audio at the moment (IMO) and you can run a very potent system for the cheapest that has been offered ever in this field? Pretty cool times in that fashion if you ask me!

Sorry for the rant OP,
I am VERY glad to hear that someone else has given them a go and more importantly shared the results!!!


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## jonnyanalog

rexroadj said:


> Thats tough......I suppose the answer would be yes with the exception being low frequency extension and authority. I have not found another set that is equal or greater in those aspects...they are just freaks of nature in that realm!
> 
> In the end its all about tuning and install anyway. What is special about the MS set is that they are incredibly forgiving when it comes to install and tuning (not a whole lot is required for superb sound) In that aspect they remind me of the Boston SPZ's.... (a great deal of engineering and $ was spent on that aspect with the bostons)
> 
> I dont see any set out there being comparable in the same or moderately higher price range. Again, if I were doing something other then my 81' Renegade I would have bought the MS in a heart beat!
> Add to that, the PPI Phantom amps and you have the best deals in car audio at the moment (IMO) and you can run a very potent system for the cheapest that has been offered ever in this field? Pretty cool times in that fashion if you ask me!
> 
> Sorry for the rant OP,
> I am VERY glad to hear that someone else has given them a go and more importantly shared the results!!!


Can't forget the alpine type-r 8s! 

Glad to hear some additional feedback on these. Where did you happen to listen to these?


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## rexroadj

jonnyanalog said:


> Can't forget the alpine type-r 8s!
> 
> Glad to hear some additional feedback on these. Where did you happen to listen to these?


I put them in a friends car....also at a shop.

The type R's also go on the "deals" list.......Looks like the new type S is going to trump that in the $ performance ration as well!

Its really a good time to be buying mobile audio!!


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## caver50

rexroadj said:


> Thats tough......I suppose the answer would be yes with the exception being low frequency extension and authority. I have not found another set that is equal or greater in those aspects...they are just freaks of nature in that realm!
> 
> In the end its all about tuning and install anyway. What is special about the MS set is that they are incredibly forgiving when it comes to install and tuning (not a whole lot is required for superb sound) In that aspect they remind me of the Boston SPZ's.... (a great deal of engineering and $ was spent on that aspect with the bostons)
> 
> I dont see any set out there being comparable in the same or moderately higher price range. Again, if I were doing something other then my 81' Renegade I would have bought the MS in a heart beat!
> Add to that, the PPI Phantom amps and you have the best deals in car audio at the moment (IMO) and you can run a very potent system for the cheapest that has been offered ever in this field? Pretty cool times in that fashion if you ask me!
> 
> Sorry for the rant OP,
> I am VERY glad to hear that someone else has given them a go and more importantly shared the results!!!


Thats impressive, because i know how much you like the 608's and the SPZ's.
I may have to consider those myself. My motives are slightly different though.
Mostly interested in mating the midbass with some Hertz ML-28's


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## tyroneshoes

I have been eyeing this set as well and the ms subs. 

However, I plan to use them passive. Im assuming you are active since you have the pioneer deck. How are the passives built regarding quality of components? 

You say the titanium dome has sharpness equivalent to a soft dome? Since you were coming from a pointsource kef, where did you install the tweeters ?

Have you considered trying the passives just to see hear how it sounds?


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## caver50

Would like to find some specs on the midbass driver. I've searched with no success.


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## TwoDrink

Excellent review. Thank you. Now I'm reconsidering my ppi 356cs set.


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## Sulley

Great review, thanks. Might have to try a set out in the GF's Corolla. 

That basket and magnet structure looks pretty damn close to my H-Audio Soul. 











Sent from my iPhone


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## jonnyanalog

The baskets also look similar to the rainbow slc 265 ng. I know that probably means nothing with regard to performance but its hard not to notice the similarity. 
Too bad Bikin isn't running the klippel. It would be interesting to see some data.


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## caver50

Thats a beefy lookin speaker


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## schmiddr2

JBL MS62C Two-Way Component Speakers - Speakers - Talk Audio Online Car Audio Magazine & Forum - Talk Audio Online Car Audio Magazine & Forum - Magazine


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## rexroadj

There is also a video to go along with that review


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## schmiddr2

The video is on the same page I linked.


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## rexroadj

I know....just letting people know to look for it


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## nellymerc

I almost ordered those speakers but then I found out I would have to do some modding to make them fit and I was already doing a ton of work. I went with the JBL MS-52c. They have the same tweeter, same build quality, only the the 52cs can only go down to about 70Hz instead of 60Hz. Im sure that the 62cs can reproduce bass better then my 52cs but thats what I have my subs for  . The set is pretty impressive so far for me as well. I've been using them about as long as you and haven't really pushed them hard yet. They get pretty loud and I havent heard any distortion yet.

I also have been enjoying the 80PRS since its release. The auto TA&EQ sound pretty damn good on my setup. I have a couple friends that have "installed" systems with their own friends or what not (wiring up a prebuilt box and subs from who knows where) and they said they havent heard anything this clear or loud. Mind you they most definitely not pros by any means, but now they know what to aim for lol. 


Upgrades  by nellymerc, on Flickr


Untitled by nellymerc, on Flickr


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## ErinH

jonnyanalog said:


> The baskets also look similar to the rainbow slc 265 ng. I know that probably means nothing with regard to performance but its hard not to notice the similarity.
> Too bad Bikin isn't running the klippel. It would be interesting to see some data.


kind of makes you wonder if they all share a similar build house. I'm not saying they do. I'm just saying they all do indeed look a lot alike in many regards.


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## [email protected]

Off the shelf baskets are much better nowadays then they used to be. There are a few well done ones. Not like back in the day anymore, when a company would get their own basket cast specifically for them.


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## thehatedguy

Here we go with baskets looking the same...

How many subwoofers use the same baskets? Are they all built at the same place?


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## ErinH

thehatedguy said:


> Here we go with baskets looking the same...
> 
> How many subwoofers use the same baskets? Are they all built at the same place?


You should know the answer to this question. It's a lot more "yes" than it is "no". Besides, look at the hole patterns and the not-so-hole patterns. I'm not saying the specific speakers here are mfg by the same source. Just agreeing that the baskets do indeed look similar. No conspiracy needed. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


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## caver50

rexroadj said:


> I put them in a friends car....also at a shop.
> 
> The type R's also go on the "deals" list.......Looks like the new type S is going to trump that in the $ performance ration as well!
> 
> Its really a good time to be buying mobile audio!!


Have you heard the Polks MM 6501's... if so, could you make a compairson.


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## schmiddr2

Here is the install manual for them, http://www.jbl.com/images/media/MS62C_SS_EN.pdf


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## rexroadj

caver50 said:


> Have you heard the Polks MM 6501's... if so, could you make a compairson.


Sorry, I dont have a lot of experience with the MM's......The only polks I have used in the last several years have been the SR components and subs.....


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## jonnyanalog

bikinpunk said:


> kind of makes you wonder if they all share a similar build house. I'm not saying they do. I'm just saying they all do indeed look a lot alike in many regards.


It would make sense seeing as how Harmon is probably not immune to lowering piece part cost. In this economy it would not be out of the question that they outsource stuff like baskets, spiders, etc. I've dealt with that for my entire career (not in car audio btw).


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## schmiddr2

The tweets really do sound great playing cymbals and snare. Very detailed and complement the mids well, which have a very smooth sound. Still finishing the install so I might add more to this.


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## caver50

schmiddr2 said:


> The tweets really do sound great playing cymbals and snare. Very detailed and complement the mids well, which have a very smooth sound. Still finishing the install so I might add more to this.


Please do, I just need a little more convincing for this to be my next set of comps.


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## SUMO740

Are the tweeters sold by themselves?


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## tyroneshoes

schmiddr2 said:


> The tweets really do sound great playing cymbals and snare. Very detailed and complement the mids well, which have a very smooth sound. Still finishing the install so I might add more to this.


ANy new thoughts? Are you using the passives or active?


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## audiorailroad

inquiring minds want to know.


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## jonnyanalog

no joke. 
Based on what I have read I might just pull the trigger. Seems for the price they cannot be beat. Hell if I don't like them they will go in my wifes van. LOL


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## schmiddr2

I'm using a 9887. I haven't had a lot of time to do the final install of the tweets. Nor have I done any tuning. Right now I feel the mids have some issue I need to address. Sometimes it seems they just make a lot of noise and I can't necessarily make out the instruments very well. BUT, this is not in any way my final thoughts on them. I haven't even tinkered with slopes, T/A, or crossover points. Right now at 3.2KHz.

BTW, I called SE to see if I could buy another set because they had the BYGO half off sale. They were $200 so I figured hell I'll take a second set for $100, but no. They raised the price back up to $250 and he wouldn't let me because I bought before the deal had started.


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## tyroneshoes

If you call sonic, you can get a set of these for 250 and a second for 125 right now.

Thats below dealer cost.

$375 shipped for two sets!


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## rexroadj

Buy JBL MS62C 61/2 component system for $169.95


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## abduljakul

can anyone compare this to cwm6?


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## jonnyanalog

rexroadj said:


> Buy JBL MS62C 61/2 component system for $169.95


Ebay has you beat by $2!!!


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## thomasluke

schmiddr2 said:


> I'm using a 9887. I haven't had a lot of time to do the final install of the tweets. Nor have I done any tuning. Right now I feel the mids have some issue I need to address. Sometimes it seems they just make a lot of noise and I can't necessarily make out the instruments very well. BUT, this is not in any way my final thoughts on them. I haven't even tinkered with slopes, T/A, or crossover points. Right now at 3.2KHz.
> 
> BTW, I called SE to see if I could buy another set because they had the BYGO half off sale. They were $200 so I figured hell I'll take a second set for $100, but no. They raised the price back up to $250 and he wouldn't let me because I bought before the deal had started.


It's been about a week schmidd, Whats the deal?


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## kizz

yeah, ^^ what he said


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## schmiddr2

1999 Accord sedan. Tweets on-axis on A-pillars. Mids in OEM location in well sealed door with .36" HDPE ring.

Well I am super impressed with them. Very transparent. I find the mids need to be crossed low (63Hz 24db) to get an accurate representation of the music and to blend with the sub, but since I have little experience with installing/tuning SQ setups this might just be what I prefer. The tweeters sound great at 2.5KHz 24db. They really draw the stage up and they don't seemed stressed with 75W available.

Previously I mentioned, "I feel the mids have some issue I need to address. Sometimes it seems they just make a lot of noise", well that has been improved with T/A and lowering the crossover point. So far I have only EQ'd down the top end to -1. I have tried many other EQ settings but the comp set sounds pretty natural as they are, even on-axis tweets.

I plan to do some more listening/tuning and get a second opinion from some experienced people. Just been really busy.


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## kizz

awesome, that's good stuff to hear. 75watts to your mids too? and I assume your mids are low passed at 2.5khz? any idea what the crossover point is on the passives?


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## schmiddr2

75W to each speaker.

Bandpassed, yes.

No clue on passives. I will hook them up sometime, but not sure how close I can get at guessing the xover point/slope.


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## Mless5

Sorry to derail a bit, but these caught my eye as well: jbl P660C. Look beefy, fairly low price... Is Harman hitting a nail on the head with these budget friendly options?


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## rexroadj

Mless5 said:


> Sorry to derail a bit, but these caught my eye as well: jbl P660C. Look beefy, fairly low price... Is Harman hitting a nail on the head with these budget friendly options?


Short answer? YES! 

The P series comps have been around for a while and been great producers at the price! Hell.....even the P coaxials are great! I ran a set of the 4"s on my dash with 8s in the doors with fantastic results.....better processing at the time and it would have been more then adequate! 

Granted.....we all know I am/have been a jbl fan (extreme) but when you buy something from them 99.9% of the time your getting your moneys worth and then some. They make quality items across the market spectrum! I find the Power series comps to be very natural sounding and find the tweeter to be the one to really steal the show (on axis).....not that the mids are a joke! The can also take a lot of power and give a lot of clean quality sound in return.


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## jonnyanalog

Just to fan the JBL flames a bit and sort of derail the thread; I wonder how those new GTO EZ amps are? THey seem like they might be a good match powerwise to these comps.


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## jedc

Has anyone compared the P660C with the MS-62C? I'm really thinking hard about getting the MS-62C but not sure because of the titanium tweeter. The price difference between the two isn't that much so it's tough to decide. Also the power series comps always seem to get rave reviews and I've always been partial to silk dome tweeters. I'm just wondering if the MS woofer is leaps and bounds better sounding than the P660C woofer, and could justify me possibly not using the titanium tweeter from the set if it didn't suit my ears.


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## avanti1960

these or the imagines?


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## quality_sound

The 608s are 1/2 off in the JBL store now. $310 shipped.

C608GTi MKII | 6-1/2" (160mm) 2-way component system | JBL US


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## karlk11

anyone know the crossover point on the ms62c? also do the ms62c and ms52c use the same crossover? Thanks


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## ZAKOH

karlk11 said:


> anyone know the crossover point on the ms62c? also do the ms62c and ms52c use the same crossover? Thanks


Can you get t/s parameters for these speakers? It would be easier. One rule of thumb it seems is that the high pass frequency should be no lower than the resonance frequency of the speaker. Another helpful measure is the one way xmax excursion. If the modeling software predicts that the speaker will exceed its xmax excursion with say 50watts of power (or whatever power that you will provide) below a certain frequency, then your high pass frequency should be at or higher than that frequency. My comment is just based on my observations of what others have posted here previously. I hope someone else could comment.


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## schmiddr2

I'm using 2KHz H/LP now. Since the tweets make sounds that are very precise and "real" it adds a lot to the overall sound.

Still haven't plugged in the passives.


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## karlk11

sorry, I'm looking for the manufacturer's passive crossover points. I'm thinking of running these as a mid in the kick panel with the tweets in the sail panel, but there are other options out there, and I'm trying to feel out all of my options. Thanks again.


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## kizz

Well, just wanted to add a little bit to the thread about how awesome the new JBL MS-62C comps are. It took me a while to get new comps as I was waiting for the funds, but was finally able to get these at a great price. I have been wanting jbl comps for a long time so finally decided now was the time. 

So here are my impressions:
These comps are fantastic! lol yes i will get into more detail. 
The report on how well the tweeters play cymbals is very accurate. They have great shimmer and really make snare drums come to life! I listen to a lot or rock/metal so the snare drum is very important. I find the midrange to be lively but not too much in your face that its harsh. vocals are smooth and both female and male vocals sound very accurate and natural. The midbass isn't the best i have heard but it definately holds its own. digs fairly deep for a 6.5" and makes bass guitar really come to life. you can hear the finger pluck on the bass string which is nice to hear instead of just a bass sound. they play fast enough to keep up with lamb of gods insanely fast kick drum and is lively enough to blend well with the inverted titanium tweeter. 

speaking of the inverted dome tweeter. I found these do best off axis firing across the windshield. with no time alignment the stage is wide, deep, and for the most part centered. drums stay on top of the dash where they should be. on axis i lost depth and a center stage without time alignment.

as a summary, i was looking for a comp set that would put a smile on my face and these do it every time with all types of music. ive listened to country, rock, blues, jazz, and rap. lively enough to reproduce the live performance feel but not too much to hurt your ears. they get loud and stay clear and have fantastic detail...especially for the very affordable price. these are indeed my favorite comp set I have ever had! 

Fantastic set! I LOVE THEM!


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## rexroadj

kizz said:


> Well, just wanted to add a little bit to the thread about how awesome the new JBL MS-62C comps are. It took me a while to get new comps as I was waiting for the funds, but was finally able to get these at a great price. I have been wanting jbl comps for a long time so finally decided now was the time.
> 
> So here are my impressions:
> These comps are fantastic! lol yes i will get into more detail.
> The report on how well the tweeters play cymbals is very accurate. They have great shimmer and really make snare drums come to life! I listen to a lot or rock/metal so the snare drum is very important. I find the midrange to be lively but not too much in your face that its harsh. vocals are smooth and both female and male vocals sound very accurate and natural. The midbass isn't the best i have heard but it definately holds its own. digs fairly deep for a 6.5" and makes bass guitar really come to life. you can hear the finger pluck on the bass string which is nice to hear instead of just a bass sound. they play fast enough to keep up with lamb of gods insanely fast kick drum and is lively enough to blend well with the inverted titanium tweeter.
> 
> speaking of the inverted dome tweeter. I found these do best off axis firing across the windshield. with no time alignment the stage is wide, deep, and for the most part centered. drums stay on top of the dash where they should be. on axis i lost depth and a center stage without time alignment.
> 
> as a summary, i was looking for a comp set that would put a smile on my face and these do it every time with all types of music. ive listened to country, rock, blues, jazz, and rap. lively enough to reproduce the live performance feel but not too much to hurt your ears. they get loud and stay clear and have fantastic detail...especially for the very affordable price. these are indeed my favorite comp set I have ever had!
> 
> Fantastic set! I LOVE THEM!


Thank you for adding all of that! Well said! So glad you are enjoying them. I dont see any set comparing for the $ or even close! I'm sure deadening/tuning will allow a little more in the midbass range but like anything you have to take into account the whole system......... Seriously.....I am REALLY glad your happy with them....coming from the rainbow's thats HIGH praise!  
Again thanks for taking the time to share with such detail! (lamb of god is a tough act to follow


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## kizz

and to clarify, they don't lack in midbass, but if i had to find one complaint...and its not really a complaint, but the midbass could be a tad cleaner? and by a tad i mean just a little bit, a very little bit. but tuning could fix that i suppose. and im just searching for something bad to say...there isn't really anything. and lamb of god is the shizz


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## meantaco

how will these compare to massive audio ck6v?


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## meantaco

bump


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## tyroneshoes

kizz said:


> Well, just wanted to add a little bit to the thread about how awesome the new JBL MS-62C comps are. It took me a while to get new comps as I was waiting for the funds, but was finally able to get these at a great price. I have been wanting jbl comps for a long time so finally decided now was the time.
> 
> So here are my impressions:
> These comps are fantastic! lol yes i will get into more detail.
> The report on how well the tweeters play cymbals is very accurate. They have great shimmer and really make snare drums come to life! I listen to a lot or rock/metal so the snare drum is very important. I find the midrange to be lively but not too much in your face that its harsh. vocals are smooth and both female and male vocals sound very accurate and natural. The midbass isn't the best i have heard but it definately holds its own. digs fairly deep for a 6.5" and makes bass guitar really come to life. you can hear the finger pluck on the bass string which is nice to hear instead of just a bass sound. they play fast enough to keep up with lamb of gods insanely fast kick drum and is lively enough to blend well with the inverted titanium tweeter.
> 
> speaking of the inverted dome tweeter. I found these do best off axis firing across the windshield. with no time alignment the stage is wide, deep, and for the most part centered. drums stay on top of the dash where they should be. on axis i lost depth and a center stage without time alignment.
> 
> as a summary, i was looking for a comp set that would put a smile on my face and these do it every time with all types of music. ive listened to country, rock, blues, jazz, and rap. lively enough to reproduce the live performance feel but not too much to hurt your ears. they get loud and stay clear and have fantastic detail...especially for the very affordable price. these are indeed my favorite comp set I have ever had!
> 
> Fantastic set! I LOVE THEM!


Are you using the passives?


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## btnh47

these sound promising. I just ordered these to see if I end up liking these more than the HAT Imagine set.


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## rexroadj

tyroneshoes said:


> Are you using the passives?


Pretty sure he is running active on them.........Actually about 99% sure thats what he had said to me?


----------



## wdemetrius1

btnh47 said:


> these sound promising. I just ordered these to see if I end up liking these more than the HAT Imagine set.



I'll look forward to your thoughts.


----------



## avanti1960

btnh47 said:


> these sound promising. I just ordered these to see if I end up liking these more than the HAT Imagine set.


If you are looking for midbass (like myself, I am planning on using only the Imagine I6 woofer) then I would be very surprised if the JBL set sounds better.

The factory spec for the MS-62c lists a frequency response starting at 60Hz with no db range qualification or frequency response graph. 

For example, a Scanspeak woofer on Madisound lists a frequency response of 37 to 5000 Hz. Yet you look at the frequency response graph and it shows 37Hz to be 8db lower than the midrange frequencies. Basically the 37Hz number is for marketing purposes and does not have a direct relationship to the speaker's ability to play low frequencies.

Looking at the HAT I6, its frequency response is listed as 50Hz to 22Khz =/- 3db. Also, HAT actually provided a frequency response graph that shows 50Hz to be flat with respect to the midrange frequencies and at 40Hz, down only 3db. 
On paper, this is very impressive. 
How they compare in real world use is another story and involves many variables.


----------



## rexroadj

avanti1960 said:


> If you are looking for midbass (like myself, I am planning on using only the Imagine I6 woofer) then I would be very surprised if the JBL set sounds better.
> 
> The factory spec for the MS-62c lists a frequency response starting at 60Hz with no db range qualification or frequency response graph.
> 
> For example, a Scanspeak woofer on Madisound lists a frequency response of 37 to 5000 Hz. Yet you look at the frequency response graph and it shows 37Hz to be 8db lower than the midrange frequencies. Basically the 37Hz number is for marketing purposes and does not have a direct relationship to the speaker's ability to play low frequencies.
> 
> Looking at the HAT I6, its frequency response is listed as 50Hz to 22Khz =/- 3db. Also, HAT actually provided a frequency response graph that shows 50Hz to be flat with respect to the midrange frequencies and at 40Hz, down only 3db.
> On paper, this is very impressive.
> How they compare in real world use is another story and involves many variables.


I'm sure JBL would be willing to WRITE whatever would make you and others feel better on paper? Its just not how they roll! I'll take proof in the pudding over spec sheets ALL DAY LONG! Not a knock to the Hat's we all know they are great. If your gonna just go #s your going to short yourself a LOT! (I do know what you meant.....just thought it was funny)
One thing you need to remember with a lot of major corps is that when they list things like Freq cutoffs etc....Its a warranty safety thing. Think about how accessible JBL is and at the cost of the MS how many will be sold? Gotta protect the experience


----------



## kizz

Tyroneshoes...yes im running them active. that's how my system was set up when i got them and i didn't want to pull the dash to switch my 9887 off of active mode. Avanti, the midbass on the jbl's are very nice. bass guitar sounds frickin awesome on them. they dig plenty deep to blend very well with my sub. i have them crossed at 63hz and have tried 50hz. they really do well.


----------



## kizz

meantaco...ive owned the massive audio comps. and while i liked them very much, i would choose the jbl's over them any day of the week. the reproduce the music much more realistically than the massive's and do so cleaner when you turn it up. more detail, better staging with no time alignment, and overall more fun to listen to.


----------



## schmiddr2

^^^ Yep. They are relatively shallow so I just was worried that they would have good enough suspension travel down to 63Hz, but they do.


----------



## cflores3

nice review


----------



## chithead

Thanks to these reviews, I had to pick up a set for my daily driver install. Looking forward to trying them out!


----------



## kizz

let us know how you like them chithead


----------



## chithead

Ok I sure will. Found some amps tonight that should make for a decent install. Some Fosgate Punch 60.2 - hopefully that provides enough juice for these power hungry beasts.


----------



## lucas569

gotta give these a listen, thanks for the reviews.


----------



## lucas569

Slighly off topic. I was researching this speaker and noticed a few people use this song as a demo somg. Does any know what song this is, its starts at 5:49 YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.


----------



## jamiebosco

pretty sure it's 'Bass I Love You'


----------



## subwoofery

MS-10SD4 SLIM | 10" 4-ohm dual voice-coil subwoofer | JBL US 

Not the biggest Xmax driver but cool nonetheless 

Kelvin


----------



## meantaco

kizz said:


> let us know how you like them chithead


overall how do you like the mid bass mid range of the components(comparing them with massive audio ck6v)? I haven't made up my mind on what component to buy! Do they lack Midrange midbass? By the way what sub are you running? thinking about buying a Polk Audio MM1040.


----------



## chithead

I'll definitely let you know once I get to listen to them. I had the Massive Audio CK6 before, so I can compare those for you.

That Polk subwoofer is nice, heard some very good reviews about it. I plan on using a 10" Boston G5 subwoofer.


----------



## kizz

meantaco said:


> overall how do you like the mid bass mid range of the components(comparing them with massive audio ck6v)? I haven't made up my mind on what component to buy! Do they lack Midrange midbass? By the way what sub are you running? thinking about buying a Polk Audio MM1040.


Well, the massive audio had some stellar mid bass, but it even though it might pump out more than the jbl's, the jbl's are much much cleaner at it and are not slouches. the midrange is excellent. I particularly like the sound of an electric guitar out of these much better than anything else i ever had. they reproduce it very well imo. I really think they are much much better than the massive's and I really liked those comps. but these just outperform them in every way. Like I said, they may not pump out the gobs of mid bass that the massives did, but they are much cleaner and have great snap, much better snap than the massives. 

on bass guitar you hear the string, you can really feel the plug and realistic sound of the note versus just hearing a bass sound. Im running and FI audio Q12 sub in a ported box made my niebur3 and it frickin rocks! In fact, his exact words about it were..."your sub rocks, this is stupid" lol

go for the jbl's you won't be disappointed, at least i don't think you will be.


----------



## rexroadj

kizz said:


> Well, the massive audio had some stellar mid bass, but it even though it might pump out more than the jbl's, the jbl's are much much cleaner at it and are not slouches. the midrange is excellent. I particularly like the sound of an electric guitar out of these much better than anything else i ever had. they reproduce it very well imo. I really think they are much much better than the massive's and I really liked those comps. but these just outperform them in every way. Like I said, they may not pump out the gobs of mid bass that the massives did, but they are much cleaner and have great snap, much better snap than the massives.
> 
> on bass guitar you hear the string, you can really feel the plug and realistic sound of the note versus just hearing a bass sound. Im running and FI audio Q12 sub in a ported box made my niebur3 and it frickin rocks! In fact, his exact words about it were..."your sub rocks, this is stupid" lol
> 
> go for the jbl's you won't be disappointed, at least i don't think you will be.




SO GLAD TO HEAR!!!! Yay for Jerry on the box!!!! A well designed system (sub/midbass blend) and these comps will leave zero to be desired imo......especially when you take into account the minimal investment! Just me though?
In fact, I find a sub that is capable and box/tuning capable the sub taking over some of that region helps with overall impact! Think about it?


----------



## kizz

well i agree with this fact. if i get what you are referring to. such as my sub lp at 80 and my mb hp at 63. it feel it does really well in the impact department. I still can't find enough good things about the box jerry built for me. the sub came to life and puts a smile on my face every time. it's unbelievable.


----------



## kizz

subwoofery said:


> MS-10SD4 SLIM | 10" 4-ohm dual voice-coil subwoofer | JBL US
> 
> Not the biggest Xmax driver but cool nonetheless
> 
> Kelvin


Im curious what those ms subs sound like...


----------



## chithead

There is a review of the MS 12" on TalkAudio.uk


----------



## tyroneshoes

chithead said:


> There is a review of the MS 12" on TalkAudio.uk


link please


----------



## chithead

JBL MS12SD2 12 Inch Subwoofer - talkaudio.co.uk


----------



## IBcivic

chithead said:


> There is a review of the MS 12" on TalkAudio.uk


Aww, maaaan!.....
For a moment, I thought aww cool an MS-12 processor!


----------



## ZAKOH

The guy who writes TalkAudio reviews says HAT Unity sounds better, but the relationship between this improvement and price increase is on logarithmic scale.


----------



## gravel

Has anyone run the passives? I'm thinking of getting a set of the 62s for my jeep grand Cherokee. They'd be running on a pdx v9, either active using the amps crossovers or passive with the amp bridged, so 200 watts a side. Never tuned anything active before, little reluctant cause I'm sure I could find a way to smoke the tweeters, lol..


----------



## schmiddr2

I run the tweets at 2KHz 24db with about 70W of available power. I don't listen at max volume a lot, but loud enough to test their durability and they are holding up.

I still haven't hooked up the passives.


----------



## CDT FAN

Based on your great review and a few others, I ordered a set of these speakers. I plan on pairing them up with a Soundstream 4.760 and a pair of CDT ES-02 mid/tweeters, Pioneer 80PRS, JL Audio W1V2 12 and a Kenwood 1021 amp. Hopefully, after a litle tuning, I will have what I am after. 

What freq/slope's do you have the 6.5" crossed over? How far away did you mount the tweeter from them?


----------



## schmiddr2

63Hz-2KHz. No more than 18", I think.

I doubt you need the ES-02. They play very well as a 2way.


----------



## CDT FAN

schmiddr2 said:


> 63Hz-2KHz. No more than 18", I think.
> 
> I doubt you need the ES-02. They play very well as a 2way.


You may be right about the ES-02. I was already planning on getting a set, but CDT was running a special on the AF-256/020 Accent Kit for $149 and I couldn't pass it up. 

I planned to run the 6.5" in the door from 60-250 Hz or so and the ES-02 from 250 up. I was going to mount the 02 about 3" above the 6.5, but use a pod and point them toward the driver. That way, they won't be blocked by my legs. Then, mount the jbl tweeters on the sail panels, facing each other. I figured I would play with the crossover settings to see what works best. I've installed some nice stereos before, but never anything that I was impressed with enough to show off. I'm hoping I will do a better job this time.

Have you played with crossover slopes much? Can you tell a much difference between 12 and 24 db?


----------



## schmiddr2

BTW, my door is sealed up pretty well and it helps a lot.

My stint with active crossovers is short and during that time I have not had a great place to sit and tune. So I have not experimented a lot with slopes, just xover points. There is bountiful information on slopes here, and should give you some insight for tuning. Every car will have a different reaction to slopes anyway so I would not worry too much about what others use.


----------



## tyroneshoes

schmiddr2 said:


> BTW, my door is sealed up pretty well and it helps a lot.
> 
> My stint with active crossovers is short and during that time I have not had a great place to sit and tune. So I have not experimented a lot with slopes, just xover points. There is bountiful information on slopes here, and should give you some insight for tuning. Every car will have a different reaction to slopes anyway so I would not worry too much about what others use.


What is the fs of these tweeters?

2k seems very low for an inverted metal dome.


----------



## CDT FAN

tyroneshoes said:


> What is the fs of these tweeters?
> 
> 2k seems very low for an inverted metal dome.


I have looked for the x-over point of the factory jbl settings but I haven't found it yet.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Which car CDT? If you can I'd run the tweeter in the sails on axis. The ES-02 as near to the tweeter as you can, off axis doesn't matter here as long as you keep the crossover between the two to 3-3.3kHz/24dB. And then highpass the ES-02 no lower than 800-1kHz/24dB. I know it says it can run lower, I know people run it lower, but that comes at the expense of output and/or clarity.


----------



## CDT FAN

t3sn4f2 said:


> Which car CDT? If you can I'd run the tweeter in the sails on axis. The ES-02 as near to the tweeter as you can, off axis doesn't matter here as long as you keep the crossover between the two to 3-3.3kHz/24dB. And then highpass the ES-02 no lower than 800-1kHz/24dB. I know it says it can run lower, I know people run it lower, but that comes at the expense of output and/or clarity.


don't laugh. It's my daily driver. A 1995 Camry. It's old, but it's reliable and paid for.

Are you saying to run the ES-02 in the sails? I was concerned about it not blending and leaving a hole in the soundstage if I move it too far from the mid/bass. Another issue is that it needs a few cubic inches of space behind it and the sail wouldn't provide that unless I mount the pod up there. I guess if I cross it over higher, it won't need much.

For crossover setup, the headunit has the options below (copied from the manual). I could also use the crossovers on the amp, but it only has 12 db slopes. 

5 Turn M.C. to select the cut-off frequency
(crossover frequency) of the selected
speaker unit (filter).
Low LPF: 25—31.5—40—50—63—80—100
—125—160—200—250 (Hz)
Mid HPF: 25—31.5—40—50—63—80—100
—125—160—200—250 (Hz)
Mid LPF: 1.25k—1.6k—2k—2.5k—3.15k—
4k—5k—6.3k—8k—10k—12.5k (Hz)
HighHPF: 1.25k—1.6k—2k—2.5k—3.15k—
4k—5k—6.3k—8k—10k—12.5k (Hz)
6 Turn LEVER to adjust the level of the selected
speaker unit (filter).
±0dB to –24dB is displayed as the level is increased
or decreased.
+6dB to –24dB is displayed as the level is increased
or decreased, only if you have selected
Low LPF.
7 Press /DISP to display the upper tier.
8 Use M.C. to select NW 3.
Refer to Introduction of audio adjustments on
page 20.
9 Turn LEVER to select the slope of the selected
speaker unit (filter).
Low LPF: –36— –30—–24— –18— –12 (dB/
oct.)
Mid HPF: –24— –18— –12— –6—Pass (0)
(dB/oct.)
Mid LPF: –24— –18— –12—–6—Pass (0)
(dB/oct.)
HighHPF: –24—–18— –12—–6 (dB/oct.)


----------



## tyroneshoes

I really dont think the cdt will add anything and you should just keep it from 80-2.5 on the mids and 2.5 or 3.15 up 2 way. 


I really have a feeling this tweeter isnt meant to crossover any lower. The cdt mid/tweet seems like an unnecessary addition.


----------



## schmiddr2

I don't know the Fs. But I am using 24db slopes. So if the JBL passive is 2.5-3.15KHz 12db then it's about the same in terms of F3.

I am not advising a crossover point, just stating my experience. I have zero problems with them at that point at high volumes, but I'm not going for max output. At most 3/4 volume.


----------



## CDT FAN

Thanks guys. I'll try it w/o the CDT tweeter first. Maybe I'll experiment withe them as an upstage setup where they are mounted on top of the center of the dash.

AF 256/020 Accent Fill


----------



## Mindcrime

I wonder if any od the big box stores sell the JBL's. Seems like nobody in the phoenix area sells anything I want anymore! Pretty sad considering this was once the home of car audio


----------



## CDT FAN

Mindcrime said:


> I wonder if any od the big box stores sell the JBL's. Seems like nobody in the phoenix area sells anything I want anymore! Pretty sad considering this was once the home of car audio


I looked around several places like, Fry's, Best Buy, etc to audition these JBL's, as well as the Pioneer 80-PRS. The stores didn't carry either one.


----------



## Mindcrime

Audio Express sells them, I called to see if they had any...sure enough, so I ask the price before heading down......I about fell over and had to ask if he was quoting the right set.... 399.99


----------



## CDT FAN

I bought a set 2 weeks ago from ebay. It was a buy it now for $175 with free shipping. I believe it was from audio-club. It was packed well and the box looked like new when I got it. They also added a 2 year warrany.

Here are some current listings.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=JBL+MS-62C+


----------



## optimaprime

man these things look good!! any body else wanna chime on this set?


----------



## Mindcrime

I am resisting the urge! Lol


----------



## optimaprime

ya i am gonna pull the plug on them this weekend if i dont fond anything else.


----------



## chithead

Got mine in and have been listening on my desk for a few days now. I can see what everyone is talking about. Guitars and percussion simply come to life on these components. It's amazing how much better they sound compared to other sets I've used.


----------



## Mindcrime

chithead said:


> Got mine in and have been listening on my desk for a few days now. I can see what everyone is talking about. Guitars and percussion simply come to life on these components. It's amazing how much better they sound compared to other sets I've used.


What other sets have you used?


----------



## optimaprime

yup gonna do it!!!!!! now to find the cheapest set i can find!


----------



## chithead

Mindcrime said:


> What other sets have you used?


Pioneer TS-A1702C, Pioneer TS-A1604C, Massive Audio CK6, Diamond Audio S500A, Diamond Audio M661, JL Audio C5-650, JL Audio C3-650 (the JBL tweeters are very similar to these, but have a bit more detail on percussion), Rainbow Germanium (the ability to recreate music in a lively manner on these JBL's remind me of the Germanium mids), and Morel Hybrid Ovation 6 II. 

For reference, I like the JL Audio C3 tweeters better than the C5. But I liked the C5 mids better than the C3's. I compare everything to the Germanium mids, as they are one of the most detailed sets I've ever used. 

I can't compare the MS-62c to the Germanium tweeters, or the Morel set, as they were in a different league. Sorry, but it's true. First set of Morel's I've ever had, and won't be my last if I can help it. And the Germanium tweeter just played looooowwwww.

But these JBL's are making a believer out of me that there are excellent component sets available for halfway decent pricing. Really got the itch to get these installed and start enjoying them.


----------



## CDT FAN

I haven't played with the tweeters yet. Just the woofers. I hooked them up to an amp on my kitchen table; mainly to test the amp. I bought it used from Amazon and wanted to make sure it didn't have issues before I have had a chance to install it. On one channel, I connected the JBL. On the other, I connected a CDT CL6 that I have had since 2004. I played with the LP and HP crossover on the amp to see how the speakers would sound without being out of their comfort zone.

What I like about the CDT
1. - More efficient. I had to turn the balance over to favor the JBL by about 6 db to get them to put out about the same volume.
2. - Even with the crossover set the same, the CDT favored the highs more.
3. - Obviously clearer. There was more detail and seperation between the instruments. In comparison, the JBL sounded muddy.

What I liked about the JBL
1. - It seemed to have a warmer sound. The upper bass is stronger.
2. - It seems to play a little lower. 
3. - It handles a tad more power without rattling. 

Both of the woofers were just running open air with no baffle. I would hold them about a foot away from my face. When I held them up next to a 12" subwoofer, the JBL blended better with it. 

At this point, I am not sure which one to go with. Maybe I'll mount one in the left door and the other in the right to see how they perform in the car.


----------



## schmiddr2

What were the crossover points and slopes you were using?


----------



## CDT FAN

schmiddr2 said:


> What were the crossover points and slopes you were using?


The slope is 12db. It's variable between 50hz to 4Khz. I would play with it at different points. The CDT didn't seem to complain if I took it all the way to 4k. It would handle the mids nicely. I lowered the crossover down about halfway or more to see if the JBL was breaking up and making it sound muddy. It helped, but it still didn't play as clearly. Maybe I am being picky. I bet once I get them installed I won't see much difference.


----------



## optimaprime

these seem hard to pass up. i hade the ck6 massive comps played with them while and they where nice for price. i hope these jbls sound better then them.


----------



## chithead

Dooo eeet...


----------



## JoeHemi57

Titanium tweets scare me a little but I would trust JBL over many brands to get it right.


----------



## chithead

I am one of the biggest anti-metal tweeter advocates out there... but these are superb.


----------



## JoeHemi57

chithead said:


> I am one of the biggest anti-metal tweeter advocates out there... but these are superb.


Would the front channels of the GTO-3EZ be enough power? Its rated at 50x2, i don't listen to music near as loud as i used to.


----------



## schmiddr2

Definitely. I have 60 x 2 at 12.5V and I'm not going all the way up with it. I'm sure with a conventional crossover point they would take more but they are plenty loud for me.


----------



## chithead

JoeHemi57 said:


> Would the front channels of the GTO-3EZ be enough power? Its rated at 50x2, i don't listen to music near as loud as i used to.


I like what you are thinking there


----------



## JoeHemi57

Thanks guys i hate to get too OT but if i got matching single MS10 non slim version would it be better to get a dual 2 or 4 on the same amp? I don't think it would really need the full 500w @2ohm.


----------



## kizz

optimaprime...pull the trigger. don't hesitate. 

cut fan. I have a hard time believing the jbl's were muddy. you must have had something set up wrong


----------



## CDT FAN

kizz said:


> optimaprime...pull the trigger. don't hesitate.
> 
> cut fan. I have a hard time believing the jbl's were muddy. you must have had something set up wrong


Not muddy as in, "Oh, that sounds bad". If I wasn't comparing them side by side, I wouldn't have noticed. As for the setup, I am certain it was correct. I even swapped the drivers to make sure it wasn't something up stream. 

As fo connecting it up correctly, I installed my first stereo about 30 years ago. By now, I should know how to hook a few wires up. LOL

Now that I have played with it some more, I have decided that I really like the JBL's warmer sound.


----------



## rexroadj

Doesnt matter.....The "testing" methods are a wash anyway....free air on a table? NOPE, not going to prove much of anything to any set...good or bad. Also....one in one door and one in another? Same. Not going to tell you anything. Not saying one should be or will be better or worse. They are completely different sets and need to be handled %100 different to get the best out of both. Be fair to both sets if you really want to "compare" them to another! 
I have tried to avoid getting into this thread the last few pages because of just this sort of foolery. (not trying to be mean to you...its just that there are a LOT of people that read these things and can't stand to see things like what has been said go out there to those that my not know better)

You want to compare? Install each set (together!) as they are designed and tune accordingly! If they are equal quality?....you shouldnt notice any difference....they are designed to do the EXACT same thing.....reproduce a recording faithfully!


----------



## CDT FAN

rexroadj said:


> Doesnt matter.....The "testing" methods are a wash anyway....free air on a table? NOPE, not going to prove much of anything to any set...good or bad. Also....one in one door and one in another? Same. Not going to tell you anything. Not saying one should be or will be better or worse. They are completely different sets and need to be handled %100 different to get the best out of both. Be fair to both sets if you really want to "compare" them to another!
> I have tried to avoid getting into this thread the last few pages because of just this sort of foolery. (not trying to be mean to you...its just that there are a LOT of people that read these things and can't stand to see things like what has been said go out there to those that my not know better)
> 
> You want to compare? Install each set (together!) as they are designed and tune accordingly! If they are equal quality?....you shouldnt notice any difference....they are designed to do the EXACT same thing.....reproduce a recording faithfully!


I understand what you are saying. Those same thoughts have gone through my head too. The problem is, by the time you uninstall one and install the second, you won't really be able to compare them and switch back and forth.

As for testing, I was just listening to the woofers free air so I could get an idea of how their sound characteristics are different. Not for a definite conclusion of how they will sound after installation. I had them lifted away from the table because it totally changes the sound. I wasn't concerned about the low bass because the rear is going to cancel out the front without a baffle. Since I already know how the CDT sounds when installed, I think that was plenty sufficient to be able to roughly tell what the jbl will sound like. Of course they will sound different when installed and I am sure they will sound great.. However, I know know that they aren't as efficient and tend to sound warmer with less upper bass/ lower mid than the CDT.

There is no offense taken. You can be frank without hurting my feelings. Whatever you have to say, I welcome. That's how we learn.


----------



## kizz

schmiddr2 said:


> I run the tweets at 2KHz 24db with about 70W of available power. I don't listen at max volume a lot, but loud enough to test their durability and they are holding up.
> 
> I still haven't hooked up the passives.


Have you tried the tweeters with a higher hp? I'm curious what you like about the lower hp at 2khz. I tried that crossover and found that the crunchy guitar on rock songs really went away when i took the mids lp down.


----------



## CDT FAN

kizz said:


> Have you tried the tweeters with a higher hp? I'm curious what you like about the lower hp at 2khz. I tried that crossover and found that the crunchy guitar on rock songs really went away when i took the mids lp down.


What crossover settings are you currently at?


----------



## kizz

3.2khz 24db hp and lp. schmidder likes his at 2khz. just curious how that works for his setup


----------



## MajorChipHazard

Im glad I read this review I had some mixed feeling on JBL's products from the previous GTO range.However,having been a long time JBL freak,Im delighted to see they're making a really great comeback.Im ordering a set of these MS-62's from the distributor tomorrow....By the way,anyone notice how much the dome on this tweeter resembles those of the Focals?I heard a little rumour that JBL were buying tech from Focal(like I said just a rumour,dont know how true it could be)
As for those GTO-EZ amps,I m in love.They're stunning,a cinch to set up,sound great and have loads of grunt!Great value if you ask me


----------



## chithead

I just got the GTO-751EZ amplifier in the other day. I do recommend them. It seems very well built, and extremely user friendly.


----------



## MajorChipHazard

The setup CD works great.Makes setting gains childs play with the LED indicators to guide you


----------



## CDT FAN

MajorChipHazard said:


> Im glad I read this review I had some mixed feeling on JBL's products from the previous GTO range.However,having been a long time JBL freak,Im delighted to see they're making a really great comeback.Im ordering a set of these MS-62's from the distributor tomorrow....By the way,anyone notice how much the dome on this tweeter resembles those of the Focals?I heard a little rumour that JBL were buying tech from Focal(like I said just a rumour,dont know how true it could be)
> As for those GTO-EZ amps,I m in love.They're stunning,a cinch to set up,sound great and have loads of grunt!Great value if you ask me


Someone on here had a pair for sale. I inquired about them, but they didn't reply back. You might have better luck.


----------



## hilander999

Can anyone compare these to the polk mm6501's ?
My speakers sound great, but I feel like I should buy these now.

~need to stop reading reviews


----------



## schmiddr2

The Polk tweeters are also very good IMO. They have a nice smooth sound with some pleasing sparkle. The JBL just really make the music sound alive and detailed.

As for midbass I don't know if I heard the 6501s (shallow) or 6501, but the JBL seems have more low frequency xmax. Not night and day difference but noticeable. As for midrange, that's the one point I still need to do some listening to; just haven't decided how I feel about it since I rarely drive the car. And KIZZ, this is why I haven't replied to you question.


----------



## kizz

MajorChipHazard- im not sure how much they are like the focal tweeters as far as design goes. the inverted dome yes but I've never seen focal tweeters. the jbl's have little ridges around the outside on the flat part of the tweeter. do focal's have this as well? 

Schmiddr2 i haven't really had any gripes about the midrange. i feel it does as good as some and better than other sets i have had. I know the jbl gti608's liked more power to really bring out the midrange (from what i was told by a reputable source). Maybe you need more power? i don't know. what about the midrange aren't you happy with? I'm no pro, just curious what your thoughts are.


----------



## niceguy

chithead said:


> I am one of the biggest anti-metal tweeter advocates out there... but these are superb.


That's good to know as I'm curious about a couple of these JBL comps...I have JBL's home tower L880 speakers in the living room that use the titanium tweets and they sound great....

Stuck between the JBLs and Zapco slim line 6.5s.....


----------



## schmiddr2

I am working on fiberglassing tweeter location in the sail panels of my Accord. Once I get that done I will do some more listening tests.


----------



## ZAKOH

JoeHemi57 said:


> Thanks guys i hate to get too OT but if i got matching single MS10 non slim version would it be better to get a dual 2 or 4 on the same amp? I don't think it would really need the full 500w @2ohm.


Never say never. If you got a 2ohm stable mono amp, I'd go with the DVC 4ohm version (for single sub woofer). The more clean power the better for the sub. Try to set gains with DMM so you don't accidentally overdrive the amp though.


----------



## pullinhose

I'm pulling the trigger! What amp are you guys recommending with these?


----------



## hpilot2004

pullinhose said:


> I'm pulling the trigger! What amp are you guys recommending with these?


NVX 2-MS-62C_JAD800.4 (2-ms62c_jad8004) JBL MS Series Component


----------



## pullinhose

hpilot2004 said:


> NVX 2-MS-62C_JAD800.4 (2-ms62c_jad8004) JBL MS Series Component


I am not going to rear fill, so the extra jbl's and half of that amp would to waste, but I like where your head is! Thanks for the reply.


----------



## hpilot2004

WoofersEtc.com - GT-2125 - Boston Acoustics 2 Channel 600W GT Series Amplifier

MS-A1004 | A powerful, four-channel, full-range, Class D amplifier | JBL US

Run the MS-62 active off of this JBL amp, should be awesome!


----------



## pullinhose

hpilot2004 said:


> WoofersEtc.com - GT-2125 - Boston Acoustics 2 Channel 600W GT Series Amplifier
> 
> MS-A1004 | A powerful, four-channel, full-range, Class D amplifier | JBL US
> 
> Run the MS-62 active off of this JBL amp, should be awesome!


I like where you're going with boston acoustics amp and that jbl amp is pretty freakin sweet, but way over my price range. I know I didn't give a pr and thanks for the reply...
How do you like this Massive NX2 for the job?
http://www.massiveaudio.com/store/product.php?productid=16247
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27731_Massive-Audio-NX2.html#tabs


----------



## thomasluke

pullinhose said:


> I like where you're going with boston acoustics amp and that jbl amp is pretty freakin sweet, but way over my price range. I know I didn't give a pr and thanks for the reply...
> How do you like this Massive NX2 for the job?
> Massive Audio :: Amplifiers :: Nx2 - 2 Channel Amplifier
> Massive Audio NX2 Nano Block Series 2-Channel 960W Max Amplifier


That boston is steal right here. Really couldnt do any better in this price range.
Boston Acoustics GT-2125 (gt2125) GT Reference 2-Channel Amplifier


----------



## pullinhose

thomasluke said:


> That boston is steal right here. Really couldnt do any better in this price range.
> Boston Acoustics GT-2125 (gt2125) GT Reference 2-Channel Amplifier


Thanks Thomas, found that earlier and went for it! Appreciate the help guys! One last thing before I go, I have Polk db651's in the rear doors now, just off the hu and was planning on just ripping those out and just having the front soundstage... Should I stick with that plan or leave them in for fill (06 Escalade)? I have never ran just the front so I am new to realm, but have read a lot of posts on here and it seems like a ton of people are going that route.


----------



## chithead

Just listened to mine again with the passive crossovers, but with a bit more juice 

MUCH more impressed with how they sound, even more than before!


----------



## CDT FAN

chithead said:


> Just listened to mine again with the passive crossovers, but with a bit more juice
> 
> MUCH more impressed with how they sound, even more than before!


Have you compared active to passive crossovers? I am think about trying an active setup so that I can experiment with it.


----------



## chithead

I haven't tried it yet, don't really have the means to go active right now.


----------



## Kevin C

I just bought these off ebay, $214 to my door!
I am replacing the stockers in a 2011 Sierra, rebuilding doors, sealing .
will run passive off a alpine f250 bridged to 100rms per ch.
single Orion xtr 10" also in truck off a alpine m500.
head unit is a alpine 9815.(ol reliable)
The tweeter is going in the stock A-Piller location , so i am really hoping these inverted metal tweets ARE NOT harsh , I have always been a fan of soft dome and smooth highs...fingers crossed!
I was going to use Hybrid tech imagines , but running passive vs cost has the jbls favor, also thought about Audison volce av6 , but more cost again .
These Jbl ms62c have really great reviews and i havnt had a set of jbls since the 80s lol.:laugh:


----------



## pullinhose

I was thinking of putting the tweeters in the A post with this mount: A-Pillar Tweeter Pods - Custom Speaker Pods

Any thoughts?


----------



## schmiddr2

I would want to know what the other pod looked like and where exactly they point. They almost look like they would fit a sail panel too, but that might mess up the aim.


----------



## pullinhose

I see what you're saying... I was thinking of mounting it with the surface mount it came with in the sail panel, but I have already cut holes in the A pillars, just to find out that my driver side is 2" deep while the passenger is less than inch.  And at 200 bucks per pillar from gm, I'm just looking to find some other options. Where would/do you have yours mounted? or where would be the best direction to face them?


----------



## kizz

chithead said:


> Just listened to mine again with the passive crossovers, but with a bit more juice
> 
> MUCH more impressed with how they sound, even more than before!


How much power are we talking chithead???


----------



## schmiddr2

Best direction to face them is relative to other factors. There should be plenty of threads of tweeter facing/direction.

I bought a block of bass wood, which I will be carving to the shape of the sail panel then rounding over like the pods you linked. Mine will be pointed on axis.


----------



## pullinhose

Yeah, I know, I've been reading... A LOT... So much stuff to learn, just wondering what your preferences were with these speakers in particular. Thanks for the reply and your carving project sounds pretty awesome!


----------



## chithead

kizz said:


> How much power are we talking chithead???


Went from 5 watts... to 50!


----------



## tyroneshoes

schmiddr2 said:


> Best direction to face them is relative to other factors. There should be plenty of threads of tweeter facing/direction.
> 
> I bought a block of bass wood, which I will be carving to the shape of the sail panel then rounding over like the pods you linked. Mine will be pointed on axis.


Have you sampled them on axis? Lots of these inverted metal domes seem to perform better slightly off axis in my experience.


----------



## schmiddr2

I have had them on axis for a few months, just held in place with Velcro. I don't find anything wrong with them, but I wonder if it is the best they can be. I figure the EQ can help me out here once I get to fine tuning a FR, but so far I have no complaints or listening fatigue from on axis.


----------



## tyroneshoes

Grab a phone rta program. Very helpful. Try them firing up on the dash also


----------



## rexroadj

schmiddr2 said:


> I have had them on axis for a few months, just held in place with Velcro. I don't find anything wrong with them, but I wonder if it is the best they can be. I figure the EQ can help me out here once I get to fine tuning a FR, but so far I have no complaints or listening fatigue from on axis.


Its not a matter of them sounding "bad" on axis....they are not likely to offer a great deal of fatigue with mediocre eq capability either.......BUT if you put them a decent amount off axis (face them towards the rear view) I bet you your stage opens up a great deal! 
Thats what they are made for! They are the "Softest" metal domes I have been around (these and the ppi pc series.....pretty similar actually)....sorry I know they are "hard domes" but the only way I can describe them is "softer" then most?

Anyone who has or has listened to them knows what I'm talking about!


----------



## AuralSalvation

Would these make a good set for someone who primarily listens to metal/rock and some electronic (trance)? How do these stack up against the P660c?


----------



## kizz

chithead said:


> Went from 5 watts... to 50!


LMAO...i thought you were talking like 50 to 200 or something haha. 

Yes they are good for metal, rock, electronic, country, rap, blues, you name it. One thing I have found with these speakers are that even though they offer up a lot of detail they are also quite forgiving on bad recordings. something I haven't had since I had morel's. they are so easy to use. 

I have recently tried mine from off axis to on axis and then pointed up towards the middle of the car in front of the rear view and like rex said, they really open up the soundstage that way, although, i found that on axis they sound pretty much the same...but it could be car dependent.


----------



## AuralSalvation

kizz said:


> LMAO...i thought you were talking like 50 to 200 or something haha.
> 
> Yes they are good for metal, rock, electronic, country, rap, blues, you name it. One thing I have found with these speakers are that even though they offer up a lot of detail they are also quite forgiving on bad recordings. something I haven't had since I had morel's. they are so easy to use.
> 
> I have recently tried mine from off axis to on axis and then pointed up towards the middle of the car in front of the rear view and like rex said, they really open up the soundstage that way, although, i found that on axis they sound pretty much the same...but it could be car dependent.


They would be going in an 05 4runner. It's got factory locations for tweeters


----------



## pullinhose

Are the factory locations in A pillar, sail panel, or door?


----------



## AuralSalvation

pullinhose said:


> Are the factory locations in A pillar, sail panel, or door?


Upper door


----------



## btnh47

Had the chance to compare them, one side the JBL set and the other side Hat Imagine set. Both sound good, although HAT's had a finer detail so jus decided to keep the HATs and time to sell the JBl's.


----------



## kizz

You like the HAT's better??????


----------



## rexroadj

btnh47 said:


> Had the chance to compare them, one side the JBL set and the other side Hat Imagine set. Both sound good, although HAT's had a finer detail so jus decided to keep the HATs and time to sell the JBl's.


Oh dear....not this again

Ok, YOU CANNOT get a valid listening experience doing one side one speaker other side the other speaker.....DOES NOT WORK THAT WAY!!!!!!!!!!!! Not saying you will not end up with the same results....its subjective. But you cannot get a valid result that way. Install both (in a quality install) tune properly and then listen! Thats how it works.....


----------



## CDT FAN

rexroadj said:


> Oh dear....not this again
> 
> Ok, YOU CANNOT get a valid listening experience doing one side one speaker other side the other speaker.....DOES NOT WORK THAT WAY!!!!!!!!!!!! Not saying you will not end up with the same results....its subjective. But you cannot get a valid result that way. Install both (in a quality install) tune properly and then listen! Thats how it works.....


How about if you mix and match the x-overs and tweeters?  j/k


----------



## rexroadj

CDT FAN said:


> How about if you mix and match the x-overs and tweeters?  j/k


hahahahaha!:laugh:


----------



## subwoofery

CDT FAN said:


> How about if you mix and match the x-overs and tweeters?  j/k


Would probably nullify everthing since the Xover point on the passive is so low  

Kelvin


----------



## kizz

what is the xover point on the passives?


----------



## Coppertone

I have ordered a set and will give my review if and when I am healed enough to install them.


----------



## subwoofery

kizz said:


> what is the xover point on the passives?


Knowing JBL, closer to 2.5kHz 

Kelvin


----------



## chithead

Coppertone said:


> I have ordered a set and will give my review if and when I am healed enough to install them.


We have converted another one to the dark side. And didn't even have to break out the cookies :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## Coppertone

Wait wait, you mean I could've had cookies first darn my luck lol...


----------



## pullinhose

Just got mine delivered, will be installing on Monday! I want to thank you guys for the reviews on the JBLs and let you know I purchased these without even listening to them (something I never do) because of the high praise they received in this thread alone... Thanks again! I'll post a review when I get em in...


----------



## hilander999

chithead said:


> We have converted another one to the dark side. And didn't even have to break out the cookies :laugh::laugh::laugh:


Wait just a damn minute, what kind of cookies are we talking about?


----------



## Coppertone

Well since I have not received any, I am not part of the circle it seems lol...


----------



## AuralSalvation

Got the last set! Woot!


----------



## hilander999

AuralSalvation said:


> Got the last set! Woot!


Last set from where?


----------



## AuralSalvation

hilander999 said:


> Last set from where?


Sorry, I wrong thread lol.


----------



## David45

Im considering getting a pair of those JBLs. Active set-up with a zapco reference 200/2 (50w x2) and tweeters powered by a HU (pioneer 80xrs) would that be a good match? Or do i need a more powerful amp such as a zapco 650.6 (190 x 2 on mid woofers and more than enough power on the tweeters)
How efficient are they? Ive seen 85 db sensitivity as well as 88db...not sure what the official one... But 3db is a big deal...
Cheers


----------



## hilander999

David45 said:


> Im considering getting a pair of those JBLs. Active set-up with a zapco reference 200/2 (50w x2) and tweeters powered by a HU (pioneer 80xrs) would that be a good match? Or do i need a more powerful amp such as a zapco 650.6 (190 x 2 on mid woofers and more than enough power on the tweeters)
> How efficient are they? *Ive seen 85 db sensitivity as well as 88db*...not sure what the official one... But 3db is a big deal...
> Cheers


http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/109/109MS52C.PDF

The 6.5" version is 89db, and listed at 10-80w RMS power handling, 380w peak, so the 50x2 should be fine while 190x2 would be a bit much for this set unless you are really carefull with the gains and volume.

The 88db rating is for the 5 1/4" version. (MS-52c)

These are sensative enough to run off headunit power, so anything in the 50-80w range should bring them to life rather well. These are also 4 OHM so make sure you don't go by the 2OHM rating for your amps output.

Do you already have the amp or are you shopping for that too?


----------



## kizz

I don't think the 80prs lets you use the high level output on your tweeters when you are using rca's. correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure i read that. someone already tried it. 50 watts would be ok but 190 would be great as well. I run 140ish to mine and they love it. I would say 190 would probably be the most you would want to use on these but then again if you are careful with the gains you shouldn't have any issues.


----------



## rexroadj

hilander999 said:


> http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/109/109MS52C.PDF
> 
> The 6.5" version is 89db, and listed at 10-80w RMS power handling, 380w peak, so the 50x2 should be fine while 190x2 would be a bit much for this set unless you are really carefull with the gains and volume.
> 
> The 88db rating is for the 5 1/4" version. (MS-52c)
> 
> These are sensative enough to run off headunit power, so anything in the 50-80w range should bring them to life rather well. These are also 4 OHM so make sure you don't go by the 2OHM rating for your amps output.
> 
> Do you already have the amp or are you shopping for that too?



"to much" power is not going to be an issue assuming the signal is "clean"! You are not very likely to see all 190w anyway even in the most dynamic situations....however having a little "headroom" (or whatever you prefer to call it) has always proven to be a wonderful thing in my experience. As said by others....just use your mush when playing with it and you should be fine. They can handle the power NO problem as long as install, clean signal, and common sense are involved! I actually think the zapco 650 would be perfect active with the 4channels bridged to the mids and the last two for the tweets! 
But thats just my 2cents from a little experience with them


----------



## thomasluke

kizz said:


> I don't think the 80prs lets you use the high level output on your tweeters when you are using rca's. correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure i read that. someone already tried it. 50 watts would be ok but 190 would be great as well. I run 140ish to mine and they love it. I would say 190 would probably be the most you would want to use on these but then again if you are careful with the gains you shouldn't have any issues.


You can in fact run the tweeters off of the hu and use the other preouts for an amp on your mids and sub. 
It actually does a pretty good job too. Ran a set of vifa's with the hu and a set of id mids and several different subs like that for about a month maybe a month and a half before i got my five channel.
It surprisingly does a great job.


----------



## kizz

Well that's really good to know. The info I read was incorrect then. Thank you for clearing that up. appreciate it.


----------



## schmiddr2

With an passive inline for the tweet that means it can do 3way + sub with only a 5-channel amp. Cool.


----------



## thomasluke

schmiddr2 said:


> With an passive inline for the tweet that means it can do 3way + sub with only a 5-channel amp. Cool.


I dont think you can or rather you should use the preouts and the internal amp at the same. 
But now that i'm thinking about it i can't come up with a reason as to why it would be a bad idea. 
That is pretty cool though. huh................ I might just try something tomorrow with pair of BA sr mids and the p660 mids. This might just turn into a divorce.
****TTT!!!!!!!


----------



## thomasluke

kizz said:


> Well that's really good to know. The info I read was incorrect then. Thank you for clearing that up. appreciate it.


Ya, I was reading the manual and it said not to use the preout's as well as the internal at the same time. But i could'nt think of a reason as to why. 
I ran it pretty hard at times too and it never skipped a beat man.
THANK GOD the crossover still worked though. That would have been a 120 dollar mistake.


----------



## RYDMOTO

AuralSalvation said:


> Would these make a good set for someone who primarily listens to metal/rock and some electronic (trance)? How do these stack up against the P660c?


i would like to know how these compare to the P660C as well...


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

These seem like a good budget set for the GF's car. Problem is, they'd be passive off a Cadence XA125.2 (80x2 @ 4 OHM). Hmm... I was actually thinking of getting her a pair of HAT Imagines since I currently own a pair of Clarus and am satisfied. Decisions. Decisions...


----------



## Kevin C

I just put a set of these in my 2011 sierra .
Nice sounding set !
The instal log is located under system design...

2011 gmc sierra instal - DIYMA Car Audio Forum


----------



## thomasluke

RYDMOTO said:


> i would like to know how these compare to the P660C as well...


About a month ago I ordered the p660 because the ms set was at 250 on sonic and about the same on amazon.
Last week i ordered a set of the ms. Just got them in today and there is no comparison.
The ms kills everything about them. The 660's sound good, lots of midbass but the ms is just an all around better set of drivers.
Extremely detailed and to everyone worried about the sensitivity of the ms....Don't.
With 75 watts a channel ran active these things will run you out of the car before they start to break up. Something that i can not say about the 660's.
These things really are great!
Oh and there down to 179 on sonic with free shipping.


----------



## Wyatta4

I have a question... I hooked mine up to my new Kenwood just last night and tried to mess around with the settings to fix it but I couldn't..
Any music I play, the highs are piercing and I can't get them to tone down. And some music I play makes it sound like the tweeters are blown.. I've tried every setting on the deck and messed around with the passive crossovers a bit to no avail.
I have high quality tunes, 320kbps.
I have no amplifier.

Any ideas?..


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

Wyatta4 said:


> I have a question... I hooked mine up to my new Kenwood just last night and tried to mess around with the settings to fix it but I couldn't..
> Any music I play, the highs are piercing and I can't get them to tone down. And some music I play makes it sound like the tweeters are blown.. I've tried every setting on the deck and messed around with the passive crossovers a bit to no avail.
> I have high quality tunes, 320kbps.
> I have no amplifier.
> 
> Any ideas?..



An amplifier will allow you to have smoother sound at louder levels and will improve your mid bass. You can try to position the tweeters a bit off-axis. Play with tweeter positions. Use the EQ on your head unit aswell to get the sound you're looking for.


----------



## Wyatta4

adrenalinejunkie said:


> An amplifier will allow you to have smoother sound at louder levels and will improve your mid bass. You can try to position the tweeters a bit off-axis. Play with tweeter positions. Use the EQ on your head unit aswell to get the sound you're looking for.


I've already done all that.


----------



## schmiddr2

I agree, an amp could help. This does not sound like an eq or tweeter attenuation problem. More so like the mids need more power to get to a level to keep up with the sensitive tweets. One thing you can try is to cover the tweeters with grill cloth to compensate for this. The broken tweeter sound may be clipping; if this is true then its not fixable without an amp. Make sure the doors are sealed well to improve the mids response.


----------



## t3sn4f2

If you evaluated them in a quiet environment and they sounded that way, then it is definitely not power related. A mere watt will get you fairly loud in that situation.


----------



## Wyatta4

Wait, so is it or isn't it related to that fact that I dont have an amp?.. 
Ill have to give the cloth thing a try
The tweeters just sound like shreaking.. I don't know how to explain it but they don't sound good...


----------



## Wyatta4

And there is an occasional radio static type noise in there.. I grounded it to the body too.


----------



## thomasluke

Wyatta4 said:


> And there is an occasional radio static type noise in there.. I grounded it to the body too.


Wait...What? What did you ground?


----------



## Wyatta4

thomasluke said:


> Wait...What? What did you ground?


The deck


----------



## Coppertone

Whew, I thought you were talking about the speaker.
:2thumbsup:


----------



## thomasluke

Coppertone said:


> Whew, I thought you were talking about the speaker.
> :2thumbsup:


Know kidding...I did too.


----------



## thomasluke

Sooooooo Has anyone used the angle mount for the tweeters? I f you have have you tried to remove them yet?
And if you have removed them how in the hell did you do it?
Cause from where i'm sitting if you screw the mount to a panel then press the tweet into it theres no way to get to the back of it to push out.
I have not mounted them the way i would like to yet for this reason. 
Honestly i feel kinda dumb right now. The manual didnt say anything about removing them.


----------



## schmiddr2

The flush mounts are twist in and the angle mounts are just push in. Just take 2 narrow screwdrivers, push them into each hole, and apply pressure evenly to push it out. Or use 1 screwdriver and go from one hole to the other applying pressure.


----------



## thomasluke

schmiddr2 said:


> The flush mounts are twist in and the angle mounts are just push in. Just take 2 narrow screwdrivers, push them into each hole, and apply pressure evenly to push it out. Or use 1 screwdriver and go from one hole to the other applying pressure.


Ya, I understand that. But once mounted those holes on the back are not going to accessible. 
So once you press the tweeter into the angle mount thats screwed down how are you going to get to the back of the mounting cup to push it back out?
Even if you could manage to get a small screwdriver or something in there you cant get the right angle on it to push the tweeter out of the cup.
It's a pretty tight fit too you know.


----------



## schmiddr2

Ah. Didn't think of that...mine are still in Velcro stage. lol.

I would of used a bolt instead of a screw. But it seems you are already past that; I guess you need to experiment with pulling at the grill with equal pressure. Maybe use fishing line and run it through 2 or more holes that are opposite of each other then pull. Take the line and run it down a scissor edge to get it to curl so it can be "fished" in and then out of the grill.

Seems like a design problem, or something I am missing.


----------



## kizz

use a very small ice pick type tool. a very fine point will allow you to pull the grill off. from there you can use that same tool to pull out the tweeter.


----------



## thomasluke

I haven't thought about the fishing like and yes it seems like quite a big design flaw as well.
There has to be a way to properly do this that I'm just seeing right now.
I would've been really messed up earlier if I would've not had to pull the wire back through when I noticed it earlier.
I was all set to mount it on the sail and was what the hell I cant do this. I'll never get it off.
I'm going to pm andy and see if he knows what to do. They did come double sided tape but I am looking for something with a little more sturdiness.

Just fill in the blanks. I'm on a new phone and well its going to take alittle getting used to


----------



## thomasluke

kizz said:


> use a very small ice pick type tool. a very fine point will allow you to pull the grill off. from there you can use that same tool to pull out the tweeter.


Maybe they fit damnable tight though. Its hard to push them out I don't wanna put a hole in the thing you know. Just to be clear I caught the situation before pressing the tweeter in. 
I would just really like to use these monuts but still be able to dismount if I want.
Crazy yet effective design I guess


----------



## kizz

well the tip of the pick needs to be smaller than the holes of the grill. for me, I have an old dentist cleaning tool. it's like an ice pick on one end and the other end is bent 90 degrees. it will slide in a grill hole just enough to pull it off....i promise it will work


----------



## thomasluke

kizz said:


> well the tip of the pick needs to be smaller than the holes of the grill. for me, I have an old dentist cleaning tool. it's like an ice pick on one end and the other end is bent 90 degrees. it will slide in a grill hole just enough to pull it off....i promise it will work


I have a....dissecting kit that has the same little tool in it.
I actually used it this afternoon in the exact manner your talking about.
The bad news i dont think i like these. I know everyone is raving about the tweeter but i dont think it's gonna work out for me.
I'm using the passives right now just to see what jbl thought they should like.
Bridged with 250 a side and the tweet really isnt loud enough for me and running them active i cant seem to get to the level right.
I've already ordered a pair of dls ultimate tweeters. Reason being I freaking love them and sonic had them for 60 bucks a pair.
I'm going to run the jbl's for a bit to see if they need to "break in" or whatever but generally speaking i know if im going to like something or not within the first couple of hours of tuning.
IDK just kinda let down by the tweet. I had high hopes


----------



## thomasluke

You think 250 on tap is to much? I didnt see any kind of power limiter for the tweeter on the passive's. 
Maybe theres to much juice there and it's being redirected to the mid? The midbass is GREAT with that power though.
The damn things will blur my rearview crossed at 60 with 24 db slope. So thats good.


----------



## kizz

The tweets weren't loud enough for you? holy crap! how loud do you listen to your music?


----------



## thomasluke

kizz said:


> The tweets weren't loud enough for you? holy crap! how loud do you listen to your music?


:laugh: that's what I'm saying. I don't know what's going on imam switch from network to normal in the morning and see if it makes a difference. 
Shouldn't though I.set the mid low pass to pass. So it should be the same. Right?
If not and it the p80 is cutting the highs even with no lowpass on the mid.....its coming out.


----------



## lucky

Wyatta4 said:


> I have a question... I hooked mine up to my new Kenwood just last night and tried to mess around with the settings to fix it but I couldn't..
> Any music I play, the highs are piercing and I can't get them to tone down. And some music I play makes it sound like the tweeters are blown.. I've tried every setting on the deck and messed around with the passive crossovers a bit to no avail.
> I have high quality tunes, 320kbps.
> I have no amplifier.
> 
> Any ideas?..


You ever get this figured out? You sure you don't have the leads from the crossover to the tweeter/mid switched up?


----------



## thomasluke

lucky said:


> You ever get this figured out? You sure you don't have the leads from the crossover to the tweeter/mid switched up?


Ya dude. If that were the case the tweeter would be nothing more than a puff smoke by now.
There's nothing wrong with these. It was all my ears. I went and had a physical today tot work. Had the doc look at my ears because of a pain ive been having in my ear for awhile now.
Turns out I had enough wax in there to make a weeping candle.


----------



## schmiddr2

lol. The ole wax in the ear excuse.  Hope it is not more than just an inconvenience.


----------



## thomasluke

schmiddr2 said:


> lol. The ole wax in the ear excuse.  Hope it is not more than just an inconvenience.


All is good now. He used a little...um sucky thingy and got so much wax out of my ears.
While he was doing it he'd pull out a ball of wax and i'd be able to hear things like the paper i was sitting on crackling and then brrrrrrrrrr then he'd pull more out.
Took about thirty mins. when all was said and done there were two pile of orange wax. Like really dark orange.
Wish i would've took some pics with my phone.


----------



## niceguy

Umm, no thanks lol....you sound like my wife's friend who asked my wife to bring her gallbladder home in a jar for her


----------



## thomasluke

niceguy said:


> Umm, no thanks lol....you sound like my wife's friend who asked my wife to bring her gallbladder home in a jar for her


:laugh: It's not that bad man. Is it?


----------



## quality_sound

thomasluke said:


> All is good now. He used a little...um sucky thingy and got so much wax out of my ears.
> While he was doing it he'd pull out a ball of wax and i'd be able to hear things like the paper i was sitting on crackling and then brrrrrrrrrr then he'd pull more out.
> Took about thirty mins. when all was said and done there were two pile of orange wax. Like really dark orange.
> Wish i would've took some pics with my phone.


I have to have mine done every 2 or 3 years. They use a saline solution to press it out from the backside. Makes a HUGE difference.


----------



## thomasluke

quality_sound said:


> I have to have mine done every 2 or 3 years. They use a saline solution to press it out from the backside. Makes a HUGE difference.


I've had that done too. But the other day he used something like the dentist uses to suck the saliva or blood or whatever.
He put this expanding tube in my ear stretched it out a little and started pulling the wax out.
It's alot more um pleasurable experience. Plus the last time they used the saline stuff i felt like i had water in my ear for a week. 
Theres none of that with the way this guy did it.


----------



## Keoni

Can anybody tell me what the physical diameter of this tweeter is WITHOUT the mounting cup--just the bare tweeter? The manual doesn't show that dimension. I want to know if it will fit in my stock tweeter mount.

Thanks,
Keoni


----------



## Kevin C

The tweeter fit in my sierra A-Pillars without too much modifaction ,measured at about 38mm or just under 1.5"for the ring around the face...the stock tweeters were 1" and very little trimming had to be done for the rear portion to fit once out of the cups ...hope this helps .

check out my pics on my sierra build


----------



## WannaBBurly

Just ordered a set of these... Plan to run them active, does any one know what the individual impedances are of the drivers separately? Also, if the sensitivity changes?

Thanks


----------



## Keoni

Kevin C,

Can the tweeters be pulled from its casing, basically exposing the tweeter without its grill? If so, would that be much small than 1.5"?

Thanks again,
Keoni


----------



## WannaBBurly

Just got my set in last night. Pioneer 80PRS will be here tonight.

Debating on setup still... Really want a nice 5-channel to run the front stage active, plus a sub. I've noticed a few people running the tweets off of the deck power. Is this still a viable option, or has everyone moved on from that?

I have some old amps laying around that I may use. RF Power 750S, about 850W bridged to 4 ohm for the sub. RF Punch 201S, rated at 50w x2, may put that on the tweeters. Then just pick up a solid 2-channel for the mids? Or sell the 201 and get a nice 4-channel for the front? Sell both amps I have, buy a JL 900/5... Buy a 2-channel, keep the sub amp, run tweeters off deck power? Oh decisions, decisions...


----------



## Keoni

WannaBBurly said:


> Just got my set in last night. Pioneer 80PRS will be here tonight.
> 
> Debating on setup still... Really want a nice 5-channel to run the front stage active, plus a sub. I've noticed a few people running the tweets off of the deck power. Is this still a viable option, or has everyone moved on from that?


By deck power, you mean "MS-8" power, correct? Deck power can't be mixed with power after the MS-8 due to time delay that occurs at the MS-8. Just making sure you knew that.


----------



## WannaBBurly

Deck power meaning head unit power. I don't have an MS-8 processor, the Pioneer deck will be doing my processing.


----------



## Keoni

Sorry about that, was reading the MS-8 thread then saw this post and responded too quickly. My bad!


----------



## neo_styles

Well guys, you've reeled in another one. Ordered a pair from AAFES which means they might take a minute to arrive, but they're coming from Harmon directly.

Question is I have 2 4-channel amps I'll be installing: a Rockford P8004 and a PG Octane 5.0:4 as well as an Image Dynamics ID10 d4 in a sealed 0.5 cu ft enclosure. Which amp would you recommend me using on the comps and which on the ID10? Also looking for advice on bridged vs unbridged and 2 vs 8 ohms on the id10. Definitely looking for daily driver sq as the ultimate goal.


----------



## t3sn4f2

neo_styles said:


> Well guys, you've reeled in another one. Ordered a pair from AAFES which means they might take a minute to arrive, but they're coming from Harmon directly.
> 
> Question is I have 2 4-channel amps I'll be installing: a Rockford P8004 and a PG Octane 5.0:4 as well as an Image Dynamics ID10 d4 in a sealed 0.5 cu ft enclosure. Which amp would you recommend me using on the comps and which on the ID10? Also looking for advice on bridged vs unbridged and 2 vs 8 ohms on the id10. Definitely looking for daily driver sq as the ultimate goal.


Best to put as many details as you can on each amp. Detailed amp features and specs aren't common technical knowledge.


----------



## schmiddr2

The Rockford is more powerful and therefore good for more sub output and less likely to overheat. The sub is dual 4 ohm so you can bridge the amp to 2 channels where each channel goes to one 4ohm coil.

Then bridge the PG to go to the components.


----------



## neo_styles

Specs (by request):

PG 5.0:4 at 14.4v
80w x 4 @4ohms
125 x 4 @ 2ohms
250 x 2 bridged @ 4

Rockford P8004 @ 14.4v
100w x 4 @ 4 ohms
200w x 4 @ 2 ohms
400w x 2 bridged


----------



## neo_styles

I'm going to try to avoid wiring each vc to a bridged channel because I really dont want to mess up my ID10 if I don't properly match voltage on each channel. I'd rather go 8ohms on the sub and bridged to the amp or 2 ohms on the sub on a single channel.


----------



## quality_sound

neo_styles said:


> Specs (by request):
> 
> PG 5.0:4 at 14.4v
> 80w x 4 @4ohms
> 125 x 4 @ 2ohms
> 250 x 2 bridged @ 4
> 
> Rockford P8004 @ 14.4v
> 100w x 4 @ 4 ohms
> 200w x 4 @ 2 ohms
> 400w x 2 bridged


Unless you need a **** ton of bass, I'd do the RF on the components active, and the PG on the sub with each bridged channel on a coil. Basically the 2-amp equivalent of an HD900/5


----------



## neo_styles

quality_sound said:


> Unless you need a **** ton of bass, I'd do the RF on the components active, and the PG on the sub with each bridged channel on a coil. Basically the 2-amp equivalent of an HD900/5


Don't need a **** ton, that's for sure. My concern is running active on either amp. Looking at the crossover on those, I'd have to get a separate external crossover before I could go active. So plans right now are strictly passive so I can get a feel for what shortfalls are introduced by the passive xover that I can aim to correct going active.


----------



## neo_styles

Here's another question, though. To run with each VC on a different channel, what precautions do I need to take? I'll be setting gains by DMM to match rated power for each component, but should I be taking something else into account to make sure that each voice coil is getting the exact same signal? Additionally, running the JBL comps passive, what should I be able to take my gains up to after break-in?


----------



## quality_sound

Nope. Once you've level matched the channels you're good to go on the sub as long as both channels are getting the same signal so either make sure your HU/processor is sending a mono signal or use a y-adapter. 

Don't worry about break-in. It's a myth and happens within minutes, at most.

What HU or processor are you running?


----------



## neo_styles

quality_sound said:


> Nope. Once you've level matched the channels you're good to go on the sub as long as both channels are getting the same signal so either make sure your HU/processor is sending a mono signal or use a y-adapter.
> 
> Don't worry about break-in. It's a myth and happens within minutes, at most.
> 
> What HU or processor are you running?


Pioneer AVH-P8400BH and that's it. Down the road, I plan to add either a Clarion MCD360 or JBL MS-8 but have to gain WAF on everything, so it'll be a while before I do any further processing. Unfortunately, the crossover points on the 8400 are nowhere near what they'd need to be to truly go active at this point, so passive is the only option. Once I get a little more free money, I plan to grab a MS-8 (they're 499 on AAFES atm, no tax).


----------



## 98koukile

I've been looking at using separate components until I stumbled across this thread. Are these able to compete with things like the prestige tweeters and id oem drivers? (just two examples, don't read too far into the brands) For the price I have to admit I'm very tempted to jump on the bandwagon. I would run these off of a xd600/6 tweeters getting 75w each and drivers getting 150w each. Do the people who have experience with these think that this combination would be better than separates?


----------



## chithead

Yes. I do believe they would be.


----------



## rexroadj

98koukile said:


> I've been looking at using separate components until I stumbled across this thread. Are these able to compete with things like the prestige tweeters and id oem drivers? (just two examples, don't read too far into the brands) For the price I have to admit I'm very tempted to jump on the bandwagon. I would run these off of a xd600/6 tweeters getting 75w each and drivers getting 150w each. Do the people who have experience with these think that this combination would be better than separates?


For the money they are almost impossible to beat (imo)
Your power ratio is perfect too (imo)

The ID oem's would probably have a little more on the lower end/output.....midrange? jbl's own it! No question.......Tweets, I would also give the nod to the Jbl's. If your running a sub and it doesnt have to be run lower the 80hz........again.....Pretty tough to beat the jbl set?


----------



## t3sn4f2

rexroadj said:


> For the money they are almost impossible to beat (imo)
> Your power ratio is perfect too (imo)
> 
> The ID oem's would probably have a little more on the lower end/output.....midrange? jbl's own it! No question.......Tweets, I would also give the nod to the Jbl's. If your running a sub and it doesnt have to be run lower the 80hz........again.....Pretty tough to beat the jbl set?


And to add.......the installation of the midbass in the door is going to make or break your expectations. Read up if you need to. But to summarize you want to install that driver in as most a loudspeaker enclosure like install as you can. It doesn't have to be that precise but stressing that extreme results in appropriate results for most.


----------



## rexroadj

t3sn4f2 said:


> And to add.......the installation of the midbass in the door is going to make or break your expectations. Read up if you need to. But to summarize you want to install that driver in as most a loudspeaker enclosure as you can. It doesn't have to be that precise but stressing that extreme results in appropriate results for most.


What he said! Install Install Install....when you think you have deadened and sealed enough.....do it more! Placement, etc.......


----------



## thomasluke

rexroadj said:


> What he said! Install Install Install....when you think you have deadened and sealed enough.....do it more! Placement, etc.......


I have to revisit my doors and door panels for the third time now. I have my panels in the middle of the living room floor right now with a bulk back of stinger road kill. Tried the 25% thing and it's just not working for me.

Sorry,had to take a break my fingers are were starting to cramp.


----------



## 98koukile

I bought 60 sq ft for two cars, I'm thinking if I need more I'll wait until another sale, the doors are going to be getting the most treatment at first since it will all be torn apart for the speakers. It's hard to just drop $600+ on this stuff sometimes so increments are necessary. It's also a compromise of performance (read: weight) and sound.


----------



## carter1010

I played with the passive crossovers a bit today for the MS52c and thought I would share my experience. The mids seem to be bandpassed and allowed to roll off naturally. I ran my active mid input to the x over and then adjusted the crossover point up until it no longer seemed to extend the drivers response and that never happened. I did the same for the tweeter. Ran my active tweeter input into the passive input and passive tweeter output to the tweeter and kept lowering the crossover point until no difference was heard. The tweeter as stated before seems to have a pretty low X over point of about 2100 hz. I would recommend crossing over at that point active if you are running less than 80 watts RMS with clean signal. With more power cross higher, 3.1 or 4000hz. I have been using these active for about a week and was more impressed with them when I used the passive crossover that is supplied. 

After trying to copy the slopes and x over points of the passive system the best I could with my active one, it seemed to improve the performance dramatically. I dropped the tweeters by 6db and ran them at 2500hz and up. I crossed the mids 200 hz and up and let them roll off naturally and this seemed to sound most like the passive unit. The only reason I dropped the tweeter output is not because I like the way it sounds, but because I have 150 watts per channel on tap and I want to play it safe.


----------



## WannaBBurly

carter1010 said:


> I played with the passive crossovers a bit today for the MS52c and thought I would share my experience. The mids seem to be bandpassed and allowed to roll off naturally. I ran my active mid input to the x over and then adjusted the crossover point up until it no longer seemed to extend the drivers response and that never happened. I did the same for the tweeter. Ran my active tweeter input into the passive input and passive tweeter output to the tweeter and kept lower the crossover point until no difference was heard. The tweeter as stated before seems to have a pretty low X over point of about 2100 hz. I would recommend crossing over at that point active if you are running less than 80 watts RMS with clean signal. With more power cross higher, 3.1 or 4000hz. I have been using these active for about a week and was more impressed with them when I used the passive crossover that is supplied.
> 
> After trying to copy the slopes and x over points of the passive system the best I could with my active one, it seemed to improve the performance dramatically. I dropped the tweeters by 6db and ran them at 2500hz and up. I crossed the mids 200 hz and up and let them roll off naturally and this seemed to sound most like the passive unit. The only reason I dropped the tweeter output is not because I like the way it sounds, but because I have 150 watts per channel on tap and I want to play it safe.


How low did you try to run the mid?


----------



## carter1010

WannaBBurly said:


> How low did you try to run the mid?


With the Pioneer P9 combo, the lowest I can set the mid range crossover is 200hz at a 6db slope so I didn't run them any lower than that.


----------



## ZAKOH

carter1010 said:


> I played with the passive crossovers a bit today for the MS52c and thought I would share my experience. The mids seem to be bandpassed and allowed to roll off naturally. I ran my active mid input to the x over and then adjusted the crossover point up until it no longer seemed to extend the drivers response and that never happened. I did the same for the tweeter. Ran my active tweeter input into the passive input and passive tweeter output to the tweeter and kept lower the crossover point until no difference was heard. The tweeter as stated before seems to have a pretty low X over point of about 2100 hz. I would recommend crossing over at that point active if you are running less than 80 watts RMS with clean signal. With more power cross higher, 3.1 or 4000hz. I have been using these active for about a week and was more impressed with them when I used the passive crossover that is supplied.
> 
> After trying to copy the slopes and x over points of the passive system the best I could with my active one, it seemed to improve the performance dramatically. I dropped the tweeters by 6db and ran them at 2500hz and up. I crossed the mids 200 hz and up and let them roll off naturally and this seemed to sound most like the passive unit. The only reason I dropped the tweeter output is not because I like the way it sounds, but because I have 150 watts per channel on tap and I want to play it safe.


I don't think its really matter how powerful the amplifier is, as long as it is well behaved and does not send unexpected pop signals, etc. to the tweeter. The amplifier may have 150watts on tap, before clipping, but that's when you send a 0dB signal. If you look at music in a spectrum analyzer, typically higher frequencies (from 3KHz on) peak at -20 to -30dB, and never seem to exceed -20dB. So the amplifier will never be asked to send 150watts to the tweeter with normal music. A more serious issue is to send frequencies that are too low for tweeter to handle. One standard way to deal with this is to install a capacitor, which should create a first order passive high pass filter at a desired frequency.


Anyways. If I had 5 inch mids, my preference would be to let them play at least to 3KHz. The logic is that the 5 inch mids can play up to something like 3KHz flat (if they don't suffer from break-up) when installed off axis, as is normal in a car, while a 6inch mid starts beaming at 2KHz and will have a big dip by 2.5KHz and will need equalizer adjusted. For tweeters, THD rises as you lower their high pass crossover, so for an average car tweeter, the higher the high pass frequency the better, while a 5 inch mid can be loud at 3KHz without straining.


----------



## carter1010

It seemed while running active I could easily push the MS52c to its limits while I could not do this with the C508GTImkii components. The C508 comps could take all the volume I have on tap (amp gains set with SMD1 at max volume, no clipping from Pioneer P9 combo at max volume). The MS52c can not and my volume is limited to -13db before audible breakup occurs. It was this lack of composure that made me curious about how the mid and tweeter interact through the passive. Initially I had the crossover set to 4k for both the mid and tweeter at a 18db slope. After installing the passive on one side I heard a very distinct difference in the passive slope and what I was running active. Once I matched the active to the passive as closely as I could, bandpassing the mid from 200hz and up and running the tweeter at 2.5 with a sharp slope, imaging was better, stage depth improved, and the resolution was better. I set the tweeter to -6db on the passive and am able to bring my volume up to around 8-9 before issues are present. 

I really was not successful in increasing the composure of the comp set at the volume I wanted by using the passives and this was a bit of a disappointment. I was however able, and this was by accident, to improve the soundstage. Understanding the passive crossover that comes with the set, mainly letting the mid naturally roll off and set the cutoff of the tweeter to 2.5k seemed to improve sonic performance overall, with a sacrifice in power handling. I think this is why there is a phase plug on the mid in this set, to equalize the higher frequency output of the mid past 2000hz. 

Right now the passives are in place as I want to spend some time with them before I go back to active to make sure that I understand how the set was intended to sound. Just have to be easy on my volume : ) 

I would be very interested in what opinions are out there regarding the passive crossover in this set and the frequencies and slopes of the dividing network which I suspect should be the same for both the 62c and 52c?


----------



## 98koukile

So is every one that's running them active emulating the passive crossover for sound and then feeding them more power than they can handle otherwise? The reason I ask is because I will be running these with a ms8 and it will be taking care of the setup and from what I've read that leaves me little room to play with the settings.


----------



## J1Gold16

I haven't had a chance to read through every single post, but I am running the JBL MS 62C's using the factory head unit in my Honda CR-V with a Audio Control LC6i powered by an Alpine PDX V9. The highs seem a little harsh and when I try to correct it by using setting the tweeter to -3, the speakers sound lifeless. Did any of you experience this? My last car had JL Audio C5 components so that is my reference. I'm only moderately happy with the sound of the MS 62C's. Not really blown away.


----------



## CDT FAN

Those tweeters sound nice, but they can run you out of the car if you're not careful. After my initial listening sessions with them, my ears wrung for 2 weeks. I pointed them away from me (about 90 degrees) toward the floorboard and now I can listen to them all day long. It's amazing how much of the highs you can still hear without them in you face.


----------



## 98koukile

I had these in my shopping cart on ebay and now I'm getting cold feet. I'd love to hear them in person before I bought them but I think I just need to pull the trigger. If I don't like them a diy setup can just as easily be installed after the fact


----------



## J1Gold16

98koukile said:


> I had these in my shopping cart on ebay and now I'm getting cold feet. I'd love to hear them in person before I bought them but I think I just need to pull the trigger. If I don't like them a diy setup can just as easily be installed after the fact


It's been about 3 years since I last listened to the JL Audio C5's that I had and the overall setup (e.g., amps, head unit, etc.) was a lot better. The JBL MS 62C's I have installed sound pretty bright, almost harsh, compared to the JL's. This is most likely due to the metal dome tweeter in the JBL's vs the silk dome tweeter in the JL's. I liked the smoother highs of the JL's however, the C5's were also $300 more than the JBL's. For the money, the JBL's do a fantastic job. I did a comparison with Alpine Type R components installed in another vehicle and I can tell you the JBL's reproduced vocals much better than the Alpines. The Alpines were louder but I'm pretty sure that's due to the fact he was running 800 watts to a set of components.


----------



## rexroadj

FYI.....The problem is not the "metal" domes......People love to blame the material. Bottom line is that its about the install and tuning PERIOD!

Same goes for those that said Focal, Quart, JBL608 tweets were harsh. NO, actually they are absolutely amazing/breathtaking if you know how to use them properly! OFF axis is a GREAT way to start (thats the whole point of metal domes and why they can be great in cars......work best off axis (most cases)! The MS tweets are probably some of the most forgiving metal tweets I have ever dealt with (dont have to be super off axis and really wont/shouldnt "bite your head off" if you happen to have them on axis. Adjustments need to be made. If you do you will be extremely pleased! (best part of the set imo actually?).

Work with what you have first....till all options are exhausted! If you do that, you will always be pleasantly surprised!
The material has nothing to do with it though. Just have to educate yourself on the best way to use each particular material in each specific situation 



FYI- C5 is an AWESOME set!!!!!


----------



## neo_styles

Well, got my MS62s in the mail yesterday even though AAFES hadn't updated the status. They're definitely smexy, but did we really need such a large manual in 27 different languages?

I'm looking into filling out the rest of my order for what's left before I can install. Is there any benefit to going bigger than 14ga for speaker wire? I was thinking Knu TCA for going between the amp and crossover.


----------



## rexroadj

I always run 12..(8 to subs)..but thats because I'm an *******! 14 is MORE then adequate for anything you will likely be doing! 
Good luck with your system!


----------



## neo_styles

Thanks, rex. First time I'm intentionally making a SQ system for myself. Last time, it just happened by accident when I discovered Rainbow SLCs at a local shop. Had no clue what I was doing at the time, though.


----------



## rexroadj

I hope to save you and anyone else reading this some time and money......DO yourself a favor....when you get something that gives you a **** eating grin and goose bumps when you play your favorite tracks (whatever they may be). Call it a day! Just enjoy it! anything from that moment on is nothing more then a step sideways! Dont get caught up in the "latest greatest" just enjoy your music when you can! (rainbow makes some fantastic stuff!)


----------



## lucky

rexroadj said:


> I hope to save you and anyone else reading this some time and money......DO yourself a favor....*when you get something that gives you a **** eating grin and goose bumps when you play your favorite tracks (whatever they may be). Call it a day!* Just enjoy it! anything from that moment on is nothing more then a step sideways! Dont get caught up in the "latest greatest" just enjoy your music when you can! (rainbow makes some fantastic stuff!)


QFT. Problem is, it still might cost you a **** ton of money to get where you've got a **** eating grin while listening in your car.

Love your avatar btw.


----------



## rexroadj

lucky said:


> QFT. Problem is, it still might cost you a **** ton of money to get where you've got a **** eating grin while listening in your car.
> 
> Love your avatar btw.


LoL...Thanks 

You'd be surprised how simple it can still be  I have used everything from Alpine F#1, Brax, etc...to sparkomatic......there is definitely a happy medium to be had. Install is #1. Tuning #2. Signal source #3, etc........ Once you get to a certain point its all sideways! I'm not saying you can do it with junk. I'm just saying when you get there......QUIT and enjoy it!!!!


----------



## neo_styles

That's my overall goal. I don't have a bunch of money as it is, so I really do go for bang for the buck (one of the reasons I came to DIYMA and ca.com in the first place). You guys and the bloke from talkaudio.co.uk pretty much convinced me to buy these without even auditioning them (first time ever for that). I really have been trying to maintain the DIY spirit and know it'll be much more gratifying in the end.


----------



## carter1010

I was looking at JBL's web site and I guess the passive crossover also has a tweeter protection circuit? Anyone know what part of the passive board makes up the tweeter protection?


----------



## neo_styles

The capacitor IIRC


----------



## teoulennon

Any updates for running passive? I'll be ordering the ms52c's soon, I'm interested in what configuration you find sounds best to you!



carter1010 said:


> It seemed while running active I could easily push the MS52c to its limits while I could not do this with the C508GTImkii components. The C508 comps could take all the volume I have on tap (amp gains set with SMD1 at max volume, no clipping from Pioneer P9 combo at max volume). The MS52c can not and my volume is limited to -13db before audible breakup occurs. It was this lack of composure that made me curious about how the mid and tweeter interact through the passive. Initially I had the crossover set to 4k for both the mid and tweeter at a 18db slope. After installing the passive on one side I heard a very distinct difference in the passive slope and what I was running active. Once I matched the active to the passive as closely as I could, bandpassing the mid from 200hz and up and running the tweeter at 2.5 with a sharp slope, imaging was better, stage depth improved, and the resolution was better. I set the tweeter to -6db on the passive and am able to bring my volume up to around 8-9 before issues are present.
> 
> I really was not successful in increasing the composure of the comp set at the volume I wanted by using the passives and this was a bit of a disappointment. I was however able, and this was by accident, to improve the soundstage. Understanding the passive crossover that comes with the set, mainly letting the mid naturally roll off and set the cutoff of the tweeter to 2.5k seemed to improve sonic performance overall, with a sacrifice in power handling. I think this is why there is a phase plug on the mid in this set, to equalize the higher frequency output of the mid past 2000hz.
> 
> Right now the passives are in place as I want to spend some time with them before I go back to active to make sure that I understand how the set was intended to sound. Just have to be easy on my volume : )
> 
> I would be very interested in what opinions are out there regarding the passive crossover in this set and the frequencies and slopes of the dividing network which I suspect should be the same for both the 62c and 52c?


----------



## atbear

I know it's been asked a couple of times in this thread (just read the whole thing)... but hasn't really been answered.

How do these JBL MS-62C compare to the Polk MM6501? I was pretty much sold on the Polks until I read this thread... now it sounds like maybe the JBLs might be on par (or better) than the Polks. Has anybody tried both and can give a compare and contrast between the two? Which sets are better, and where are they better/worse?

What is the coaxial counterpart to the MS-62C? For example, the coaxial counterpart to the MM6501 is the MM651 (which is what I planned to put in the rear doors). What is it for the JBLs, and are they on par as far as bank for the buck and sound quality? Thanks.


----------



## subwoofery

atbear said:


> I know it's been asked a couple of times in this thread (just read the whole thing)... but hasn't really been answered.
> 
> How do these JBL MS-62C compare to the Polk MM6501? I was pretty much sold on the Polks until I read this thread... now it sounds like maybe the JBLs might be on par (or better) than the Polks. Has anybody tried both and can give a compare and contrast between the two? Which sets are better, and where are they better/worse?
> 
> What is the coaxial counterpart to the MS-62C? For example, the coaxial counterpart to the MM6501 is the MM651 (which is what I planned to put in the rear doors). What is it for the JBLs, and are they on par as far as bank for the buck and sound quality? Thanks.


I don't know why the MM6501 is so popular... In my opinion, you can do much better for the money. The only thing that the MM does better than most is in midbass output and lower midrange - it has no midrange (sounds hollow) and no treble extension. 

I'd choose those sets over the MM6501 if I was on a budget: 
WoofersEtc.com - TS-D1720C - Pioneer 6-3/4" 260W 2-way Component Set - Sounds great and handle good amount of power - with this set, I'd try to keep the tweeter around 30° off axis. Great price too 
MB Quart PVI 216 Component Systems at Onlinecarstereo.com - Like highs? This set has it all and is IMO the best set out of the 4 sets I suggested - if you don't have much power, this set is also very sensitive and lively. Please remember, a tweeter is only screaming if you don't install it correctly unless it really is a bad tweeter 
Rockford Fosgate T2652-S (T2 652 S) 6-1/2" Power Component System - when people see RF, they usually frown however I've been quite impressed with their new sets. This particular set is the best bang for the buck in their line up and does everything better than the MM6501 - if you can go up to the T3 set, it really is worth it 
WoofersEtc.com - SPX-17REF - Alpine 6.5" Type-X Series Component Set Good set from midrange to high - some say that midbass is a bit lacking but I actually find it to be quite good - just doesn't extend very low

Kelvin 

Edit: never heard the JBL set so I can't compare...


----------



## atbear

Thank you, subwoofery. I really appreciate your suggestions, though it kinda makes my head spin. I'll stop here so as not to hijack this thread, unless somebody has a comparison of the MM6501 to the JBL MS-62C.


----------



## carter1010

teoulennon said:


> Any updates for running passive? I'll be ordering the ms52c's soon, I'm interested in what configuration you find sounds best to you!



I actually enjoy the passives quite a bit. I bridged my PPI 900.4 to them and reset my gains, set the passive at 0 db for the tweeter and they sound pretty incredible.


----------



## teoulennon

Great! What x over points are u using for mids and tweets?


carter1010 said:


> I actually enjoy the passives quite a bit. I bridged my PPI 900.4 to them and reset my gains, set the passive at 0 db for the tweeter and they sound pretty incredible.


----------



## carter1010

teoulennon said:


> Great! What x over points are u using for mids and tweets?


I am using the passive crossovers. The only additional crossover point is from 200 and up.


----------



## ZAKOH

carter1010 said:


> I actually enjoy the passives quite a bit. I bridged my PPI 900.4 to them and reset my gains, set the passive at 0 db for the tweeter and they sound pretty incredible.


Bridging P900 for speakers seems a little ..insane? When it was driving my subwoofer, it was enough to make interior parts start to rattle. PPI900.4 bridged gives 300watts RMS with 12V battery, 450watts with 14.4.


----------



## carter1010

ZAKOH said:


> Bridging P900 for speakers seems a little ..insane? When it was driving my subwoofer, it was enough to make interior parts start to rattle. PPI900.4 bridged gives 300watts RMS with 12V battery, 450watts with 14.4.



Its really not at all. Setting it with the 0db test tone of the SMD-1, dropping each driver to match the one with the least ouput, then eq'ing left and right sides (only cutting frequencies) and then eq'ing together (only cutting frequencies) I was left with very low output. I bridged the amp and things got better, but I think today I will reset with the -5db track and then I will let you know if its to much. I know the dude at Hybrid ran a JL HD 750 to each individual speaker in one of his cars and thats the only thing that gave me the confidence to even try it. It sounds incredible right now, but its not nearly loud enough.


----------



## rexroadj

ZAKOH said:


> Bridging P900 for speakers seems a little ..insane? When it was driving my subwoofer, it was enough to make interior parts start to rattle. PPI900.4 bridged gives 300watts RMS with 12V battery, 450watts with 14.4.


Not at all....yet another topic that has been beaten to death! If its something your not familiar with, there are some great threads explaining this in detail. Its some good education! Your also only talking about what its theoretically capable of......
Nothing wrong with that kind of power to anything (except horns....holy hell!!!!).

I'm willing to bet that anyone that did this (assuming quality install and tuning/not an idiot) would find the results to be pretty incredible. I have given that recommendation to MANY on here and every one of them had the same great results from it.


----------



## ZAKOH

carter1010 said:


> Its really not at all. Setting it with the 0db test tone of the SMD-1, dropping each driver to match the one with the least ouput, then eq'ing left and right sides (only cutting frequencies) and then eq'ing together (only cutting frequencies) I was left with very low output. I bridged the amp and things got better, but I think today I will reset with the -5db track and then I will let you know if its to much. I know the dude at Hybrid ran a JL HD 750 to each individual speaker in one of his cars and thats the only thing that gave me the confidence to even try it. It sounds incredible right now, but its not nearly loud enough.


I know you can tune things, but to me this seems like a waste of power/or extra channels. Without bridging, you already get near 140-150watts, which is something most speakers will not handle without very sharp high pass filter.


----------



## neo_styles

I know it's not the best test, but I'm still waiting for a few parts to come in before I can do the car install (want to get it right the first time) so I decided to test the MS-62 mids wrapped in a blanket powered by my Pioneer HT receiver highpassed at 80 then 50 Hz. Audition material was a few tracks off various Bass Mekanik discs. I wanted to run something a little more dynamic, but ****ing iTunes decided to completely rewrite all of my old WAV discs so I've got a lot of housecleaning to do.

Anyway, I'm very impressed with the tangible midbass from this set. I could tell the difference in output quite easily when I had a good seal on the back wall with the blanket vs when I didn't. I could see what people were talking about with regard to the natural rolloff of the mid as I didn't really get the impression I was experiencing any breakup. The cone barely moved, but I could feel strong vibrations all the way up past my elbows. This makes me really want to focus on properly deadening the doors...

I would have tested the tweets and crossovers, but I want to keep those in as pristine a condition as possible before actual install. As of now, I'm on the fence whether I'm going to try to get the tweets into the stock location (sail panel) or just velcro them at ear level on the a-pillar aimed directly across the windshield using the angle-mount cups.


----------



## Devourment

I plan on ordering a set of these components by this Friday hopefully and installed in the next week. I am so excited. This set has been getting a lot of praise and seems to be nothing but positive/happy reviews.

Very very excited and will post my review once I am done!


----------



## calibre

Hi guys, I've spent a long time lurking Diyma forums, but my 1st time posting.

I have pulled the trigger on a set too thanks mainly to this thread and the talk audio review, unfortunately jbl have no plan to bring them in to sell here in New Zealand, so I am having some sent from the States. I am quite excited also on seeing the improvement over my tsd 1720c comps, which never quite did it for me.
Do you guys that are running these think they should perform well via the passives, off an Eclipse ea4000 4ch @ around 75rms? Or should I look at getting more to them?

Cheers in advance.


----------



## lucky

calibre said:


> I have pulled the trigger on a set too thanks mainly to this thread and the talk audio review, unfortunately jbl have no plan to bring them in to sell here in New Zealand, so I am having some sent from the States. I am quite excited also on seeing the improvement over my tsd 1720c comps, which never quite did it for me.
> Do you guys that are running these think they should perform well via the passives, off an Eclipse ea4000 4ch @ around 75rms? Or should I look at getting more to them?
> 
> Cheers in advance.


Maybe a bit late for you, but I believe this set is sold under the Selenium brand in other parts of the world. Perhaps you can find it under that name in your country.


----------



## calibre

lucky said:


> Maybe a bit late for you, but I believe this set is sold under the Selenium brand in other parts of the world. Perhaps you can find it under that name in your country.


Thanks mate, but no I have never heard of Selenium here? We have most of the jbl range here, but the importers said they have no intention to bring them in, that could very well change down the line, but you know how this addiction works, my trigger finger was itchy! even though they stung me an extra 55usd postage, they sound worth it, we really get ripped on pricing here compared to the US...


----------



## Kevin C

Keoni said:


> Kevin C,
> 
> Can the tweeters be pulled from its casing, basically exposing the tweeter without its grill? If so, would that be much small than 1.5"?
> 
> Thanks again,
> Keoni


Yes u can remove the tweet from its casing, push out carfully with a small screwdriver. they are not that big, i was worried too . But they were about the same size as the stock tweeters .Check out my instal pics of this set , the bare tweeter is in some shots.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ent-my-car/133032-2011-gmc-sierra-instal.html


----------



## trumpet

carter1010 said:


> Its really not at all. Setting it with the 0db test tone of the SMD-1, dropping each driver to match the one with the least ouput, then eq'ing left and right sides (only cutting frequencies) and then eq'ing together (only cutting frequencies) I was left with very low output. I bridged the amp and things got better, but I think today I will reset with the -5db track and then I will let you know if its to much. I know the dude at Hybrid ran a JL HD 750 to each individual speaker in one of his cars and thats the only thing that gave me the confidence to even try it. It sounds incredible right now, but its not nearly loud enough.


Bump up the gains. I guarantee you will be smiling once you do that. You've lowered the levels so much you're letting the amp sit idle. Problem #1 is tuning by DMM with a 0 dB test tone.


----------



## Kevin C

i have a set of these JBL MS-62C in the doors and APillars of a 2011 sierra. Passive .Powered by a Alpine f250 bridged to 100 watts rms per channel Setup with a -5db test tone @1000 hz . (planning on a better amp in the future). Doors are properly prepared and midbasses are mounted to decoupled MDF baffles.
I run the tweets @ -3db on the passive xover,but will probly revert back to 0db when i clean up the reflections of the dash.
When High Passed @ 63hz , its a bit much in my truck cabin, 24db xover.I prefer a [email protected] xover and a 80hz 24db low pass on the single 10" sub.
This combination really allows the JBL midbass to realistically play low and extend a little deeper than 80hz and the sub doesnt play up with the steep xover. midbass is tight and has great impact when volume is turned up.Bass is right up front!
I have no eq cuts/gains, except [email protected] , this is to deal with a rise from cabin gain , not bad tho cause the cabin in the 4 door sierra is quite large.
These speakers just keep getting nicer and nicer sounding with extended breakin
The 100 watts seems enough for me ,its not over the top for these speakers , again, depends on the crossovers , I could bottom them with a 63hz HP and a 12db xover .they are just a 6.5".
The tweets are nice , a little bright , depends on the source quality . they play really clean and sound clear and correct when listening to a good quality cd passage but can be too bright and tiring with mp3 sources .
My setup impresses with music such as Styx ,Grateful dead, Ted nuggent. Harder rock such as AC/DC etc is very "live" sounding.
These are just personal opinions based on other speaker setups i have heard.
I have friends that are professional musicians and they have listened and are very impressed by these speakers truth and detail to instrument sounds ,playing studio samples of theirs, they are impressed with the speakers ability to play realistic in comparison to some very nice studio monitors.
Overall i would say these speakers are an excellent choice , properly setup , for any front stage in a vehicle.


----------



## neo_styles

Loving the review, Kevin. Quick question:

When you say your MDF baffles are decoupled, what extra steps did you take? I'm asking because I'll be doing the same on my 06 Passat. I have to drill out the facory speaker/baffle and will be using 1/2" for the bottom plate and 3/4" for the ring. End result will be something like this:


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## hilander999

neo_styles said:


> Loving the review, Kevin. Quick question:
> 
> When you say your MDF baffles are decoupled, what extra steps did you take?


He means you put something between the baffle and the door skin, and between the speaker and the baffle. Closed cell foam, clay and butyl rope all work well for this. CCF is the easiest to work with and comes apart easier for future repairs if needed. I use butyl rope between the speaker and the baffle, then CCF between the baffle and inner door skin.


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## neo_styles

Gotcha. I've seen install shots of people just using CLD tiles and scratching my head wondering what the merits of that really were, but CCF makes more sense as a decoupler. Any chance I might be able to find it cheap at a local hardware store? I'm kinda hoping to get this install knocked out this weekend.


----------



## hilander999

neo_styles said:


> Gotcha. I've seen install shots of people just using CLD tiles and scratching my head wondering what the merits of that really were, but CCF makes more sense as a decoupler. Any chance I might be able to find it cheap at a local hardware store? I'm kinda hoping to get this install knocked out this weekend.


You just dont want wood directly to metal, anything that does not absorb water will work. Closed cell weatherstip and rope caulk will work, Duct Seal (non hardening clay) works great but is annoying. 8x10 foam sheats (1/8") from the scrapbooking isle at walmart will do the job. Just make sure to test that it does not absorb water.

Put a piece in a glass of water, if it starts to sink after an hour, dont use it.
If you using MDF for your baffle, make sure to seal it with something unless you live in a desert.


----------



## neo_styles

Well, I live in L.A. so we've got Walmarts up the wazoo. I'll be sure to seal the MDF as well, but do you have a preference to your sealer? I'm thinking you're referring to the same stuff you use to treat decks for waterproofing.


----------



## hilander999

neo_styles said:


> Well, I live in L.A. so we've got Walmarts up the wazoo. I'll be sure to seal the MDF as well, but do you have a preference to your sealer? I'm thinking you're referring to the same stuff you use to treat decks for waterproofing.


I use duplicolor bedliner. Look around the threads here and you will find all sorts of things people use. Seems the preffered method is to use cheap cutting boards instead of MDF, but I already had the MDF and have had no problem with moisture yet and this is not a "Nice Weather" area of the country.


----------



## neo_styles

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Exte...&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202889340
Should this do the trick on sealer? In the spirit of keeping things cheap...I will be using MDF since it's less than 10 bucks for a decent sized board at THD and cuts easily enough.


----------



## rexroadj

neo_styles said:


> WaterSeal 12 oz. Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer-TH.010100-18 at The Home Depot
> Should this do the trick on sealer? In the spirit of keeping things cheap...I will be using MDF since it's less than 10 bucks for a decent sized board at THD and cuts easily enough.


Why dont you just buy a cheap poly (non wood/glass) cutting board? Kill two birds with one stone....also easy to cut and likely just as cheap? Just as rigid too!
Pretty much all I use now


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## neo_styles

Links? Just want to know what I should be looking for.


----------



## Kevin C

EXactly as has been replied.
I used cld tile around the sheetmetal opening after removing the stock plastic baffle and speaker.
I also used multiple layered MDF 3/4 and 5/8 ,Glued ,clamped , sanded and then waterproofed with a couple coats of truck bedliner spray.
With the CLD tile overlay on the door sheet metal ,I further applied a 1/4 foam rubber "gasket" around the opening before attaching with heavy sheet metal screws (pre drilled).
I added a little more cld tile , but some prefer model clay (non hardening) around the baffle once mounted .
I like how the Cld tile buytl compresses under the speaker mount surface , acting as a spring washer and ensuring it stays mounted.(dont overdue cranking the speaker down.
Dead as a door nail where the speaker sits.:elf:


----------



## t3sn4f2

Cutting board material is acoustically better than mdf. Duct seal is also better than clay since it won't ever dry out or melt.


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## 98koukile

Would it be advantageous to run these with the aura whisper or fountek 88ex full range speakers or would it be better to pick up an sls6 or rs180 and go that direction?


----------



## thomasluke

98koukile said:


> Would it be advantageous to run these with the aura whisper or fountek 88ex full range speakers or would it be better to pick up an sls6 or rs180 and go that direction?


What??????


----------



## 98koukile

3 way active... this is a diy forum


----------



## thomasluke

98koukile said:


> 3 way active... this is a diy forum


Then why are you trying a pre assembled set?


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## 98koukile

This set has many good reviews, people run it active and still find the price to be competitive, and adding a midrange/full range to a component set isn't necessarily a new practice. I was simply asking because I'd love to try these but I also really want to try three way so I'm weighing my options.


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## 98koukile

So no one has an opinion or first hand experience tying these into a three way build? I'm more curious than anything else.


----------



## rexroadj

I think a far better question to ask is this:
Why exactly do you deem it necessary to build a 3way setup......What do you feel your missing or need to change/add? I dont see this set being a "great" start for a 3way. Unless you can fit a 6" (or the 5" set) as a midrange....


----------



## fish

rexroadj said:


> I think a far better question to ask is this:
> Why exactly do you deem it necessary to build a 3way setup......What do you feel your missing or need to change/add? I dont see this set being a "great" start for a 3way. Unless you can fit a 6" (or the 5" set) as a midrange....


These are looking very appealing to me in a 3-way (10's in the doors). Shallow mount with no pole vent in the mids look like a good recipe for the kicks. Plus the detail of a metal dome without the harshness... what's not to like?

Btw, what was the overall diameter & depth of the tweeter?


----------



## 98koukile

Well as it stands I'll be running the ms8 with only a front stage for now while I sort out what to do for a sub. I like to try new and different things and one thing I was curious enough to do research on was the use of a full range speaker to cover the majority or entirety of the vocal range. This is not something I'm dying to try or must do with this set in particular but I was curious enough to ask the question with people who have first hand experience. If I liked this set enough I might never change them out but that has yet to be determined.


----------



## fish

98koukile said:


> Well as it stands I'll be running the ms8 with only a front stage for now while I sort out what to do for a sub. I like to try new and different things and one thing I was curious enough to do research on was the use of a full range speaker to cover the majority or entirety of the vocal range. This is not something I'm dying to try or must do with this set in particular but I was curious enough to ask the question with people who have first hand experience. If I liked this set enough I might never change them out but that has yet to be determined.



Using a widebander can work very well, many on here use them - myself included. Generally, the key is to get them as much on-axis as possible. I admit, there are times where I miss that top end sparkle from a tweeter, hence the reason I'm looking at this set.

FYI... Andy has mentioned using the MS-8 with a wideband driver without a tweeter isn't optimal.


----------



## rexroadj

98koukile said:


> Well as it stands I'll be running the ms8 with only a front stage for now while I sort out what to do for a sub. I like to try new and different things and one thing I was curious enough to do research on was the use of a full range speaker to cover the majority or entirety of the vocal range. This is not something I'm dying to try or must do with this set in particular but I was curious enough to ask the question with people who have first hand experience. If I liked this set enough I might never change them out but that has yet to be determined.


Well the reason why I mentioned I dont consider it an ideal beginning for a 3way set is because where it really shines is the midrange (imo). Midbass is adequate but could definitely be more robust....but that depends on your sub/system layout. It should be adequate in most situations. Adding a midrange to this set to me would be pointless? Midrange is great! Like Fish mentioned though....I could see it well with a 10" midbass (although I would probably shoot for the 5.25" set depending on mounting location)......
People seem to love the "sex appeal" of a 3way (hahahaha....yup, I said that  front stage. Reality of it is pretty simple... A lot of cases its just not needed! More then that, more often then not people do more bad then good with it as far as the active aspect goes! Not saying it cant or doesnt have its advantages....Just saying that of the countless cars I have listened to.....the vast majority had taken steps backwards because of it. Dont get me wrong though....its fun to play. But it cost $ and takes time and eventually people get tired of that part. I advise doing the absolute most you can with the simplest setup.....more often then not, when done right, audio happiness is had  Until you go to the "new threads" on here of course....then that damn bug takes over again? 
KISS- Keep it simple stupid! (NO, not calling you stupid!)


----------



## 98koukile

I love the KISS method, which is why I was looking at this set. But these ideas of using the ms8 to its full potential just keep running through my head. I guess I'll try these then think of something if I don't love them.


----------



## avanti1960

i'm of the opinion that any good 2-way system can sound better as a 3-way. especially if the system is active where you can control crossover frequencies and slope- and where the midbass driver is mounted off-axis (front lower doors)- and where the midrange and tweeter will be mounted close to each other, high in the sound stage and somewhat on-axis.
when the midrange driver and frequencies have clear unobstructed pathways to your ears there is nothing like the clarity you can achieve with this installation fundamental. 
a two way sounds good if not very good but a proper 3-way is in another league.


----------



## 98koukile

From what rex said maybe a midrange isn't what i want, maybe I should look at putting an 8 somewhere to fill in the lower end if I find a gap to fill after trying them as is.


----------



## Bayboy

Had enough funds laying around in my paypal account from previous gear sales short of $3 shipped from Savingslot.... 

Needless to say after following this review, I finally pulled the trigger. Now the next decision will be keep the set of Peerless XXL 830876 or go back with the dual HO 10" to mate. Hmmmm.... decisions, decisions.


----------



## negativegain

i decided to join the cult of ms-62c after my jbl p660c set decided to rip themselves apart(there has to be an engineering, or manufacturing, shortcoming concerning the surrounds on the woofers). the surround seperated from the cone more than 50% of the way around the cone on both woofers. not only on both of my woofers but also one of my roommates. that's 3 out of 4. and i also remember reading about another member posting this. shame on you jbl.
the tweets on these ms-62c are a wonder, i've only had these installed for 2 days now and i cannot stress enough how much better these sound than the p660c set. looking forward to dialing them in after the break in period.


----------



## negativegain

double post.

but again, i cannot believe how weak the surround must be on the p660c set. for shame jbl. not only did it seperate from the cone, but at one 3 inch stetch, the surround actually seperated from the basket.


----------



## Bayboy

Wow! It's a good thing I decided to go upwards in tier. I almost went with the P660C. Thanks for the info!


----------



## rexroadj

negativegain said:


> double post.
> 
> but again, i cannot believe how weak the surround must be on the p660c set. for shame jbl. not only did it seperate from the cone, but at one 3 inch stetch, the surround actually seperated from the basket.


Then having them warrantied shouldnt be a problem  Or did you get them NON authorized (hence the issues?). You may even be able to upgrade to the MS on their dime? They are very good about warranty if you bought them legit. 
What xover point were they high passed at? What was the power (and from what) did you hear any warnings etc........?


----------



## Bayboy

Just received mines. Nice looking drivers. Really has me pondering for the 27th for a sub to match aesthetically...  As soon as I get my old laptop up and going (it's a dinosaur) I'm going to put it on the WT3. I'm surprised no one has done this and/or posted the results just out of curiosity. Perhaps I missed it.


----------



## fish

Bayboy said:


> Just received mines. Nice looking drivers. Really has me pondering for the 27th for a sub to match aesthetically...  As soon as I get my old laptop up and going (it's a dinosaur) I'm going to put it on the WT3. I'm surprised no one has done this and/or posted the results just out of curiosity. Perhaps I missed it.


It'd be cool if someone sent theirs to Erin to run on the Klippell (hint-hint).

Anyone know of any sites that has them for cheaper than the $179.99 @Sonic?


----------



## Bayboy

I got mines from Savinglots.com, but for only a few bucks cheaper ($172 shipped) I'd say it's not worth it. I didn't investigate (rushing like a kid on xmas) who I was dealing with. I received it, but didn't get a tracking number. Just as I was about to call & cancel the order, I got home & seen the delivery. For safety sakes & peace of mind (not to mention I don't know if they're authorized, doubt they are) I would just order from Sonic.


----------



## schmiddr2

fish said:


> It'd be cool if someone sent theirs to Erin to run on the Klippell (hint-hint).


I offered a few months ago. I also want to see how they compare to others he has done.


----------



## [email protected]

schmiddr2 said:


> I offered a few months ago. I also want to see how they compare to others he has done.


I think he only will test drivers he wants to see tested. I asked before when he was using DIYMA's klippel, he told me to check back in a month or so. So I did and he didnt even give me a response. Ant needs to get the klippel back in the hands of somebody that will actually use it alot for the community.


----------



## fish

BeatsDownLow said:


> I think he only will test drivers he wants to see tested. I asked before when he was using DIYMA's klippel, he told me to check back in a month or so. So I did and he didnt even give me a response. Ant needs to get the klippel back in the hands of somebody that will actually use it alot for the community.


Who in the hell's got it?


----------



## Bayboy

This blows big time! Couldn't get my laptop up and running to test it. Plus I have the first edition WT3 so I can't run it on windows 7 until I can get an upgrade. UGHHHH!


----------



## mosconiac

The inverted titanium tweeter seems to be the main factor for the positive reviews of this set. Does anyone know if it can be sourced seperately?


----------



## Bayboy

Doubt that's going to happen anytime soon unless you can get them directly from JBL. At that point, you'd be better off buying a the entire comp set at the cheapest prices from a distributor then offing the mids/xover to offset the price. I'm sure JBL will be almost near that price since they are selling the GTO tweets for $99. By the time they start offering the tweets separately you may be able to find them elsewhere for about half... maybe. I just don't see that happening anytime soon since this is a tier below their flagship comp sets, but I could be wrong.


----------



## [email protected]

fish said:


> Who in the hell's got it?


Ant and Mastermod or whatever his screen name is, I think


----------



## lucky

I've got to add to the chorus of praise for this set. While they aren't perfect, they are darn good for people who want to install, set gains, and enjoy music and not have to go jumping through hoops trying to get a set to sound good. I'd bet my impressions would be much better if my tweeters weren't mounted so far away from the mids.


----------



## Devourment

lucky said:


> I've got to add to the chorus of praise for this set. While they aren't perfect, they are darn good for people who want to install, set gains, and enjoy music and not have to go jumping through hoops trying to get a set to sound good. I'd bet my impressions would be much better if my tweeters weren't mounted so far away from the mids.


What do you have these installed in?


----------



## Bayboy

lucky said:


> I've got to add to the chorus of praise for this set. While they aren't perfect, they are darn good for people who want to install, set gains, and enjoy music and not have to go jumping through hoops trying to get a set to sound good. I'd bet my impressions would be much better if my tweeters weren't mounted so far away from the mids.



I wouldn't expect perfection from any comp set, but did you use any sort of DSP?


----------



## Bayboy

Ok, finally got my WT3 running on my old XP desktop. Good thing I it kept around.  Here's the results after several sweeps starting from successful calibrations. Keep in mind when using the WT3 actual cone diameter plus half surround (peak to peak) is used which yields roughly about 5" diameter for the MS-62c. This is not an oversized driver like the usual JBL comps. Since xmax is not given in the spec sheet it is unknown at this time.


SPL (1w/1m)= 86.53

RE= 2.952 ohms

Fs= 67.29hz

Qts= .6278

Qes= .7267

Qms= 4.614

Le= .6457 mh

Mms= 18.18 grams

Vas= .2451 cu ft

Xmax= N/A



All parameters check out in BB6 Pro and shows the driver to be more suited to vented enclosures which is obvious from the Fs/Qes ratio shown above. Sealed box with a Qtc of .707 is in .235 cu ft heavily stuffed with a F3 around 92hz. Won't bother with ported. I'll let someone else do that. Insignificant as we all know in car audio, but figured I'd include that for anyone thinking about kicks. Also shows JBL's use of factoring in cabin gain. I've noticed this same thing before with a Diamond audio 5.25" comp set when tested. The driver's parameters suggested it was more suited for vented, but IB in the door it performed great with surprising amounts of midbass for it's size as compared to drivers more suited for sealed and seemingly IB. Just goes to show how we should not get hung up on parameters for IB, especially for midwoofers ran above Fs.


----------



## Bayboy

Also, for anyone wondering about the tweeter's resonance, an impedance sweep shows a peak around 2800hz. The tweeter also registered at 3.9 ohms Typical for a small format metal tweeter, but speaks nothing of the actual dynamics of the driver. At least there's a starting point for active xover points.


----------



## neo_styles

Got some play time with these puppies today since I finally have both installed. Decided to run passive with the tweets directly above the woofer behind the door card. I thought that would screw up imaging, but it actually enhanced it for me. Localization was difficult across the whole spectrum (think my new ported enclosure for my ID10 helped), midbass was dramatically improved, and the clarity! Oh, how clear my system is now.

I tested on various tracks like Romeo Machado and Satisfaction from the Focal discs, a couple soft rock pieces, and some electronic/EDM from Sander Van Doorn and Nero. Everything was played extremely well and I was absolutely gushing over the fact I was hearing new details in songs I hadn't previously heard. There's clear separation between picked notes on a guitar, the cymbal crashes are the most accurate I've heard from a door speaker (attack and release were spot on), and vocals were buttery smooth. There were new basslines that were fiercely prominent and sounded like they came from an actual bass guitar instead of some half-assed attempts at notes.

I ended up putting a layer of CLD in between each metal/MDF and MDF/MDF surface as well as a ring of CCF weatherstrip between the speaker ring and the midrange itself. Finally, I added one more layer of CLD to cover the CCF which overlapped the outer ring of the woofer itself. I feel this was the best method of creating a true IB environment without severe modifications and the payout is palpable.

No worries about harshness of tweets, even directly on axis (only on axis while wrapping up laying CLD on the doors). JBL scored a slam dunk in this regard. To make a metal dome that sounds so lifelike and accurate without being ear-bleeding harsh is a modern marvel IMO.

Final note was the natural accuracy of this component set. I noticed that my EQ curve when referenced with an RTA was significantly flatter than previous. I still had to make a couple cuts at 400Hz and 8Khz, but only at -4dB instead of a more severe -6 to -8 that I've had to in the past. Otherwise, everything else is pretty much flat from the get-go.

Definitely a believer in the MS62c. I can only imagine the benefits of going active with this set, but will be waiting quite some time before I make that step. Probably in the next vehicle...


----------



## Hondacru27

*Got my order in.*

Got mine coming along with a PPI p900.4

Going to run active on a 9887  Hope I get these by the end of the week!


----------



## Devourment

neo_styles said:


> Got some play time with these puppies today since I finally have both installed. Decided to run passive with the tweets directly above the woofer behind the door card. I thought that would screw up imaging, but it actually enhanced it for me. Localization was difficult across the whole spectrum (think my new ported enclosure for my ID10 helped), midbass was dramatically improved, and the clarity! Oh, how clear my system is now.
> 
> I tested on various tracks like Romeo Machado and Satisfaction from the Focal discs, a couple soft rock pieces, and some electronic/EDM from Sander Van Doorn and Nero. Everything was played extremely well and I was absolutely gushing over the fact I was hearing new details in songs I hadn't previously heard. There's clear separation between picked notes on a guitar, the cymbal crashes are the most accurate I've heard from a door speaker (attack and release were spot on), and vocals were buttery smooth. There were new basslines that were fiercely prominent and sounded like they came from an actual bass guitar instead of some half-assed attempts at notes.
> 
> I ended up putting a layer of CLD in between each metal/MDF and MDF/MDF surface as well as a ring of CCF weatherstrip between the speaker ring and the midrange itself. Finally, I added one more layer of CLD to cover the CCF which overlapped the outer ring of the woofer itself. I feel this was the best method of creating a true IB environment without severe modifications and the payout is palpable.
> 
> No worries about harshness of tweets, even directly on axis (only on axis while wrapping up laying CLD on the doors). JBL scored a slam dunk in this regard. To make a metal dome that sounds so lifelike and accurate without being ear-bleeding harsh is a modern marvel IMO.
> 
> Final note was the natural accuracy of this component set. I noticed that my EQ curve when referenced with an RTA was significantly flatter than previous. I still had to make a couple cuts at 400Hz and 8Khz, but only at -4dB instead of a more severe -6 to -8 that I've had to in the past. Otherwise, everything else is pretty much flat from the get-go.
> 
> Definitely a believer in the MS62c. I can only imagine the benefits of going active with this set, but will be waiting quite some time before I make that step. Probably in the next vehicle...


Happen to have any pics of your doors?


----------



## neo_styles

Devourment said:


> Happen to have any pics of your doors?


You're lucky I'm up early...they don't have any MLV/CCF yet, so bear that in mind.


----------



## Devourment

Hahaha. Thanks man. 

Looks good! What kind of car/truck do you have them installed in? I got mine here sitting in the box. Installing them next month. Freaking pumped!


----------



## neo_styles

They're in a 2006 VW Passat. Install was a PITA because VW did not make it easy, but the end results was superb. Good luck with your build, man. These, like the title of the thread says, surprised the hell out of me.


----------



## Devourment

Oh I certainly plan on sharing my thoughts as well. More then excited though!


----------



## 98koukile

I went to order these after xmas and now the places with the best prices are on backorder


----------



## Hondacru27

My p900.4 and ms-62's showed up on Friday. 

The way the Jaguar xj6 is built, speaker mounts are on the door card instead of the inner door skin. the over all O.D size is much bigger than the factory 6.5's. After some dremel work and 1/4 speaker ring to give some clearance to the speaker surround, these guys got mounted nice n tight. The doors need some deadening treatment but for the most part solid.

I ran them active with the gains set to 12' clock on the mids and tweets. mids are crossed at 63hz to handle songs like off Nirvana's In Utero Album, Rage against the machine's Evil Umpire album and of course a favorite of mine, RHCP's Californication album. Rap music pretty much falls in this slope also.

Some songs I can bump down to 50hz and sometimes 40hz with the likes of Pat Benatar's Love is a battlefield and Blondie's Girls just wanna have fun. Same goes for the majority of The Beatles work. 

As for the tweets, they are currently low passed at 2 hz along with the mid's high pass at 2hz also. I'm still fighting with how low or high to pass the tweeters. I have had them at 2500 and even 3100 hz. I'm still undecided but 2hz is fine for now till I get some more listening time in. On Nirvana work, I have had to turn the tweet levels down -2 on the deck to tame the highs when he just goes berserk at the end of some songs off "Live at the Reading festival. 

I'm looking forward to playing Smashing pumpkin's Mellon Collie and the infinite sadness album to hear some piano and some more subdue clearer tracks like 1979 to possibly dial in the tweet crossover alittle better.

The amp is rated 145 per channel and they pack a good punch for the sane listener. Beware, I'm testing the limits of the mid as I have had it down to 50hz testing some slopes and cranked up at 24-25 on my Alpine 9887. I had a slight coil smell start to fill the cabin and backed off to 63hz quickly and it went away.

Overall, I'm very pleased with my purchase including the amp. I had a discus 4125 before this one and the ppi with it's much smaller footprint barely register's a lukewarm temp compared to the Discus registering a temp much closer to the phoenix sun during similar time trials.

Thanks guys!


----------



## Devourment

Nice. I'm going to be running the exact same setup, though passive. Amp should be here next week. Excited!!


----------



## Hondacru27

Devourment said:


> Nice. I'm going to be running the exact same setup, though passive. Amp should be here next week. Excited!!


you have a 9887 also? if so, why not run active?


----------



## Devourment

Hondacru27 said:


> you have a 9887 also? if so, why not run active?


Well, not the exact same setup. Probably should have specified. I'm running a different deck. Using a Clarion CX501. 

And I'm not going active because I want to use 1 amp and I'm powering a sub with the rear channels.


----------



## Hondacru27

update...

after some time listening and reversing polarity of my passenger side mid, my bass was more responsive and pronounced. I then set my T.A. 3.6cm LF and 6.7cm LR (Tweet). I also have cut the gain to the tweets -3 on the deck and crossed at 3.1 or 3.5 hz. Mids are now high passed 2.5. 

THIS IS AWESOME  All I need is a pair of 8's to fill in the sub stage then cut the mids alittle higher to about maybe 80hz and retune. 

Looks like the JBL 8's or typer R 8's fed by a ppi 2 channel will work.


----------



## Bayboy

98koukile said:


> I love the KISS method, which is why I was looking at this set. But these ideas of using the ms8 to its full potential just keep running through my head. I guess I'll try these then think of something if I don't love them.



Using any processor to it's full potential is quite an attractive idea else it almost would negate it's sacrifice in purchasing. Still, this opens up doors to using raw drivers that are not available in the "car audio" market unless you have specific constraints which I will get to in my lower reply.




avanti1960 said:


> i'm of the opinion that any good 2-way system can sound better as a 3-way. especially if the system is active where you can control crossover frequencies and slope- and where the midbass driver is mounted off-axis (front lower doors)- and where the midrange and tweeter will be mounted close to each other, high in the sound stage and somewhat on-axis.
> when the midrange driver and frequencies have clear unobstructed pathways to your ears there is nothing like the clarity you can achieve with this installation fundamental.
> a two way sounds good if not very good but a proper 3-way is in another league.



I'll probably get my head ripped off for this, but I have to agree due to the fact my install is space limited which confines me to certain drivers that can be quite unruly in the response I desire. Keep in mind I'm driving an older vehicle that has a narrow cabin and which also places the door drivers very low compared to seating position. A 1st generation S10 does not come equipped with front door speaker placing so one must pretty much fabricate or utilize the space that is available. Still this places a conundrum in the fact that besides cutting metal & the door panel to house such, size is limited as well as depth. Building out is not ideal either, remember the cabin is fairly narrow!


Now what this leads to is a fair requirement of a shallow midbass/midrange driver that still has the ability to dig a little deep, but also play with some authority. Not many current raw drivers out there that can accomplish this. The last raw drivers in use were RS180-4 then switched out to Jamo clearance. By far the Jamo owned the Daytons in midbass extension, but could not keep up in output & clarity into the midrange. The Daytons exhibited even more of a problem as their magnet structure required an extra baffle to keep from bottoming out against the window track which placed the driver's side even more off axis which it is already somewhat severe at. 

Paired up with a set of RS75-4 on the dash was a good match & solution except again, remember.... narrow cabin, so getting the dash drivers back into the corners of the pillars was a no go and quite ugly! I wound up fabricating sealed housings made from miniature Glad cups and placed them on the corners of the dash. Auditioning them like that for several, several months, they were rotated periodically between on/off axis to find the best performance with off-axis winning. 

What this has alluded to is going back to the use of normal car door mounting depth drivers for a solution, but still having some placement issues. With a seemingly (by way of reveiws) stout driver in the door that can get fairly deep, but not mount deep I chose the JBL set as a basis. The next step is to get the upper end filled out by going with a shallow mount midrange driver to mod into the pillars, then finally mate it with a tweeter meant to play off axis. Both will be firing across the dash with a very slight axis towards the listening area. Of course attenuation & xover points requires going totally active is a must at this point, but solutions have already been made considering what gear I own.

As you can see, it's not always cut & dry as to you "can't or shouldn't". It's a matter of knowing your constraints & what it will take to overcome such. It's a challenge, but there's very little rules in DIY as long as you have the means to make it so, that's what counts.


----------



## acid_burn

I saw a post on one of the pages that I don't feel like finding where someone was having problems with the tweeters.

I installed this set the other day and the mid is fantastic but the tweeters sound absolutely horrific and its very disappointing.
Super harsh and static-y, BUT the static is present even with the volume at 0, which leads me to believe that this is not a speaker problem but an amp problem (I searched the problem I'm having on forums and someone said that when they switched to a better amp the problem ceased to exist).
The problem was not there with my previous speakers on the same amp so I'm very confused. They are powerbass 2xl coaxs and they sounded way better than the JBL's do right now; the **** man lol.
I almost have a new amp picked out, either jbl804ez or ppi p9004, but if I don't need to buy one because this is not the source of the problem then that would be great. Current amp is autotek10004.

Please help lol, I really only have one day left to mess with everything before I go back to school.


----------



## rton20s

Have you tried swapping the channels you are using ok the autotek, or are you bridging? You are using the supplied crossover correct? I'm assuming you aren't running active with an external processor or head unit?


----------



## acid_burn

Yes running passive xovers


----------



## acid_burn

Is there any chance the it could be the wire that I'm using? I didn't use the jbl speaker wire because it was too short so I used some other longer speaker wire that I had laying around.


----------



## atbear

The first thing I'd do is check my connections... both to make sure they are secure, and hooked up correctly. Accidents happen. Good luck.


----------



## acid_burn

I just the switched channels and problem solved.

Thank you very much.


----------



## acid_burn

These speakers are amazing lol.


----------



## atbear

Glad to hear that! Mine are ordered and I hope to get them this week, along with an Alpine PDX-V9.


----------



## acid_burn

I only listened to them for about 20 minutes and wow. Have them on-axis and they're so loud and clear, and keep sounding better with increase in volume.

The tweeter is great on and off axis but I like my music really loud so I prefer on-axis right now. (using the velcro idea for placement from a post on this thread I think)

I can feel the vocals and I didn't even know that was possible. They sound wonderful with my hu setting of 2.5kHz. (also used this idea from a post on this thread; so helpful)

The midbass is great. I have never really heard such a tight snap from door speakers like this. I can only imagine how they would sound if my doors were sealed and deadened, with a better amp powering them. No offense to the autotek of course, it has served its job quite well but it is time for an upgrade. :]

I'll post again after playing some more. Great experience so far though.


----------



## calibre

Can any of you guys that have them installed, possibly compare them to the Pioneer Tsd 1720c's? I have my spanking new 62's sitting here that i had imported, but haven't got a chance to install mine properly for a while... gutting. I'm just wondering what sort of improvement/difference's I can expect over my current Pioneers? thanks in advance.


----------



## Bayboy

acid_burn said:


> I only listened to them for about 20 minutes and wow. Have them on-axis and they're so loud and clear, and keep sounding better with increase in volume.
> 
> The tweeter is great on and off axis but I like my music really loud so I prefer on-axis right now. (using the velcro idea for placement from a post on this thread I think)
> 
> I can feel the vocals and I didn't even know that was possible. They sound wonderful with my hu setting of 2.5kHz. (also used this idea from a post on this thread; so helpful)
> 
> The midbass is great. I have never really heard such a tight snap from door speakers like this. I can only imagine how they would sound if my doors were sealed and deadened, with a better amp powering them. No offense to the autotek of course, it has served its job quite well but it is time for an upgrade. :]
> 
> I'll post again after playing some more. Great experience so far though.





If your doors are not optimized, then yeah, you're truly missing out on the mids. That applies to just about any midwoofer that goes in the doors though. Honestly, it is the tweets that are stealing the show here. The woofers definitely are nice, but the tweets ability to merge with the mids is very impressive. I am using staggered xover points to correspond to a hot spot in my vehicle (mid lowpasses at 2khz down in doors, tweeter 3.15khz on dash). I must say the tweets have be attenuated quite a bit in my setup even firing across the dash. Damn things really put out, but are clean!


----------



## rexroadj

acid_burn said:


> I can feel the vocals and I didn't even know that was possible. They sound wonderful with my hu setting of 2.5kHz. (also used this idea from a post on this thread; so helpful)


So riddle me this? Your using the passives according to your previous post.........Why/how is it that you have a xover on your deck set at 2.5k???? Unless your talking about an eq setting? Something makes ZERO sense here?


----------



## rton20s

rexroadj said:


> So riddle me this? Your using the passives according to your previous post.........Why/how is it that you have a xover on your deck set at 2.5k???? Unless your talking about an eq setting? Something makes ZERO sense here?


I was thinking the same exact thing.


----------



## acid_burn

Eq setting sorry. Sounds completely different when changed to that from other settings, which is why I mentioned it. Wasn't trying to imply that it was a xover point. Muh bad!


----------



## rexroadj

Ahhhh......much better


----------



## neo_styles

So is the general consensus that the tweets work best on the dash? I have them mounted directly above my mids behind the door card (not ideal, I know...waiting on more speaker wire), but am tossing around the idea of placing them either on the dash in the 45-angle cups, flush mounted and aimed directly across the windshield about 5 inches up the a-pillar, and in pods mounted at the same point, but on axis. Passive setup, mind you.

Btw, noticed a dramatic improvement in midbass by flipping polarity on the driver's mid using cmusic's method of tuning. Still not quite what I think they could be doing, but without more deadening or more power, I'm not sure I'm going to do better. Also waiting on y-adapters from AT so I can run them bridged off my Eclipse 36501


----------



## atbear

Might be a kind of noob question, but I think it's logical...

If I hook the RCAs up correctly from head unit to amp... and the speaker wires up correctly between amp and speakers, why would I ever have to worry about flipping polarity?


----------



## rexroadj

Great and fair question! I suggest searching for switching polarity on here. There are a ton of good threads about when and why to do this. I dont think we should get into a dissertation of it on this particular thread. Researching this will provide you with some very valuable learning! Never a bad thing right?


----------



## atbear

Fair enough; will do. Thanks!


----------



## subwoofery

rexroadj said:


> Great and fair question! I suggest searching for switching polarity on here. There are a ton of good threads about when and why to do this. I dont think we should get into a dissertation of it on this particular thread. Researching this will provide you with some very valuable learning! Never a bad thing right?


Where's the "like" button when you need it... 

Kelvin


----------



## atbear

subwoofery said:


> Where's the "like" button when you need it...
> 
> Kelvin


Thanks for your addition.


----------



## Devourment

Well finally. After a couple of months I got everything installed. 

I ran these passively, from a PPI P900.4. Front channels to each component, and the rear channels bridged to a Polk Audio MM1040 in a .65 sealed box in my 2012 Silverado Ext. Cab. 

Sounds phenomenal. I had all of this installed by one of the most reputable shops in town. All crossovers were set via RTA, gains were dialed in with an O-Scope. Absolutely beautiful. Only thing that is kind of bumming me is the rattles that are present. Which is nothing related to the products or anything but I need to do some dynamat inside on some certain spots where the rattles are. 

Overall, for what I've spent, compared to other components I've ran in the past, I am very very pleased. 

I'd like to add, and emphasize, that these tweeter's are very very nice to listen too. They are extremely detailed, yet not harsh. There is absolutely NO fatigue in them at all. Which is nice. I have these running off-axis, in the factory location via A-pillars, facing the windshield. I think this is why they are so forgiving. I dig it. 

I am pleased. I need to do some more fine tuning, and learn the ins and outs of the head unit I had installed. Once I do that, I think I will be in heaven. 

I'm sold. I love em'.


----------



## bassfromspace

Devourment said:


> Well finally. After a couple of months I got everything installed.
> 
> I ran these passively, from a PPI P900.4. Front channels to each component, and the rear channels bridged to a Polk Audio MM1040 in a .65 sealed box in my 2012 Silverado Ext. Cab.
> 
> Sounds phenomenal. I had all of this installed by one of the most reputable shops in town. All crossovers were set via RTA, gains were dialed in with an O-Scope. Absolutely beautiful. Only thing that is kind of bumming me is the rattles that are present. Which is nothing related to the products or anything but I need to do some dynamat inside on some certain spots where the rattles are.
> 
> Overall, for what I've spent, compared to other components I've ran in the past, I am very very pleased.
> 
> I'd like to add, and emphasize, that these tweeter's are very very nice to listen too. They are extremely detailed, yet not harsh. There is absolutely NO fatigue in them at all. Which is nice. I have these running off-axis, in the factory location via A-pillars, facing the windshield. I think this is why they are so forgiving. I dig it.
> 
> I am pleased. I need to do some more fine tuning, and learn the ins and outs of the head unit I had installed. Once I do that, I think I will be in heaven.
> 
> I'm sold. I love em'.


What shop?


----------



## Devourment

bassfromspace said:


> What shop?


Soundscape Car Audio in Plano. Dan Ungaro is just a BAMF. He's the owner of the shop.


----------



## Hondacru27

I'm getting some issue's with the negative terminal pressdown locks coming loose causing my speaker to go in and out. Took the speaker out and got them screwed tighter only to have them back out again the next day. 

Thinking of going the solder route but not sure if I should solder to the tabs on the bottom of the terminal plate or somehow get the pressdowns secured tight and a dab of something to keep em from backing out.


I have a solder gun and also some super glue. best route?


----------



## hilander999

Hondacru27 said:


> I'm getting some issue's with the negative terminal pressdown locks coming loose causing my speaker to go in and out. Took the speaker out and got them screwed tighter only to have them back out again the next day.
> 
> Thinking of going the solder route but not sure if I should solder to the tabs on the bottom of the terminal plate or somehow get the pressdowns secured tight and a dab of something to keep em from backing out.
> 
> 
> I have a solder gun and also some super glue. best route?


Post a picture of the problem so you can get better answers.
If its a screw that is comming undone from a thin piece of metal, then superglue is the best answer. But post a picture first so we know what is really going on here.


----------



## rexroadj

K-Mike said:


> Can someone who has heard both the JBL MS-62C and the Polk MM6501 compare the two?


Hasnt this been covered on here? A few times????

Could be thinking of the wrong thread........but did you read this in its entirety?


----------



## K-Mike

Yea thats my bad, I saw the first question not get answered but it does get answered later, sorry :blush:


----------



## rexroadj

K-Mike said:


> Yea thats my bad, I saw the first question not get answered but it does get answered later, sorry :blush:


No worries man! LONG ASS THREAD!!!!  Some good, lots of garbage. Nature of the beast!


----------



## neo_styles

rexroadj said:


> No worries man! LONG ASS THREAD!!!!  Some good, lots of garbage. Nature of the beast!


Speaking of long thread, think one of my questions got lost in translation (that or my eyes start to cross going through all the pages). Where have you found to be the most optimal mounting location for the tweeters? They've been doing OK in the doors behind the card, but I want to get them up above the dash. Looking for recommendations from those who've tried several configs.


----------



## rexroadj

neo_styles said:


> Speaking of long thread, think one of my questions got lost in translation (that or my eyes start to cross going through all the pages). Where have you found to be the most optimal mounting location for the tweeters? They've been doing OK in the doors behind the card, but I want to get them up above the dash. Looking for recommendations from those who've tried several configs.


I prefer them in the A-pillars personally. I would try some velcro, double sided tape, hot glue gun, anything temporary and try some sample positions and heights/locations. Its amazing what difference a few inches can make (thats what she said!).
May be worth an attempt on the dash (I forget, do these have angle surface mounts for the tweets?) as well!


----------



## neo_styles

Yes they come with 45-degree angle mounts. Once my extra wire arrives, I intend to give it a shot. I might just end up with pods when all is said and done


----------



## rexroadj

Well the angle mounts are kinda like pods....I always use them first to "test" places for the sake of ease. Definitely play around...but be sure to do the same to both sides when testing (not one at a time)
Only you can decide whats best for you.....Just enjoy the process if you can....chance to listen to music and play? Whats not to love right?


----------



## neo_styles

rexroadj said:


> Well the angle mounts are kinda like pods....I always use them first to "test" places for the sake of ease. Definitely play around...but be sure to do the same to both sides when testing (not one at a time)
> Only you can decide whats best for you.....Just enjoy the process if you can....chance to listen to music and play? Whats not to love right?


Got a good answer for that one: getting bitched out by the wife after you realize you've spent six hours tuning your car on a day off lol. You're right though and I get it. Every car is just a bit different. Time will tell...


----------



## rexroadj

neo_styles said:


> Got a good answer for that one: getting bitched out by the wife after you realize you've spent six hours tuning your car on a day off lol. You're right though and I get it. Every car is just a bit different. Time will tell...


HAhahahahahaha!!!! YES sir! Been there done that! Funny, finally had a vehicle that was done, tuned, and happy with....didnt spend time on it at all.........then got a divorce? Go figure! I say take your six hours 
J/K man...... there all different! 

Good luck, and keep us posted as to what works best and why in your situation! May help the next guy!


----------



## neo_styles

rexroadj said:


> HAhahahahahaha!!!! YES sir! Been there done that! Funny, finally had a vehicle that was done, tuned, and happy with....didnt spend time on it at all.........then got a divorce? Go figure! I say take your six hours
> J/K man...... there all different!
> 
> Good luck, and keep us posted as to what works best and why in your situation! May help the next guy!


Of course. I've turned into the ca.com MS62c ambassador.


----------



## rexroadj

neo_styles said:


> Of course. I've turned into the ca.com MS62c ambassador.


LOL!!!! Awesome! I'm really glad there working out for you!


----------



## neo_styles

rexroadj said:


> LOL!!!! Awesome! I'm really glad there working out for you!


More so than I expected. At this price point, they're definitely hard chargers and it seems like diminishing returns until you get up to at least double the price. Hopefully I can eek out a little more from these guys by bridging my 36501. I think I can conservatively use the rated 120W bridged and remain passive after having spent a ton of time working on my knowledge of eq. Heck, even at 100 there should be a marked improvement.


----------



## rexroadj

I think the added power will do wonders!


----------



## J1Gold16

neo_styles said:


> Speaking of long thread, think one of my questions got lost in translation (that or my eyes start to cross going through all the pages). Where have you found to be the most optimal mounting location for the tweeters? They've been doing OK in the doors behind the card, but I want to get them up above the dash. Looking for recommendations from those who've tried several configs.


I'm running a pair of MS 62C's in the rear door and in the front door with the tweeters mounted in the factory location by the mirrors. I added a second pair of tweeters in the center vents to help with the imaging. It did wonders. Adding the Rockford 3Sixty.3 also helped a bit with the time delay.



neo_styles said:


> More so than I expected. At this price point, they're definitely hard chargers and it seems like diminishing returns until you get up to at least double the price. Hopefully I can eek out a little more from these guys by bridging my 36501. I think I can conservatively use the rated 120W bridged and remain passive after having spent a ton of time working on my knowledge of eq. Heck, even at 100 there should be a marked improvement.


I upgraded from 110 watts from an Alpine PDX V-9 to 168 watts from the Alpine PDX F-6 I am currently running. Those extra watts are definitely noticeable. The speakers love the extra power. I can now crank up tracks from Johnny Cash with out distortion from the midrange. I found that I have to lower the EQ around 200-400 hz to eliminate some distortion in order to play his songs. Not sure if it's just a bad recording. The EQ was the same on both setups.


----------



## neo_styles

That's what I'm hoping for. That Eclipse has been a great amp so far, but hoping to swap it out for something more substantial by year's end. With all due luck, when the finances come back to my car audio budget I'll be able to snag one of the Boston GT refurbs since they're basically at fire sale pricing. That or I'll save a little extra and go with a DLS A5 (A7 if I can find a good one used) or Zuki Hybrid 5-channel.


----------



## rexroadj

Boston Gt amps are a GREAT deal...I loved mine! I would also look at something like a RF T600.2 That would be perfect! Also an incredibly solid and powerful/versatile amp!


----------



## neo_styles

My gripe with RF amps comes down to their terminals. Had a P800.4 and lost thread contact with the tightening screw on the ground lead connector. The fitting is also just a smidge too small and won't accept my 0-4ga adapters.


----------



## rexroadj

Really? Hmmm....dont recall any wire size issues but its been a while. There are no shortages of great amps at great prices! Thats the good and the bad


----------



## neo_styles

Trust me, I know the selection is crazy, especially when you start looking into the OS offerings. I've even tossed around the idea of going with a JBL GTS, but think the Zuki is going to end up winning out based on the impressions here. Plus it's kinda cool knowing each amp is effectively custom-made (and not far from here at that).

Either way, I've got until around October to make up my mind. Maybe the new Leviathan will have enough significant changes to sway me.


----------



## IceWaLL

Purchased a set because of this thread.

Previous speakers:

2002 era - polk momo's
vifa tweeters - peerless 5.5" mids
hybrid audio imagines
ID ctx65cs
pioneer (cant remember the name)
hybrid audio clarus
hybrid audio l6v1 and (original) l1pro

These speakers replaced my HAT legatias. No I'm not joking! There is no pun, this really happened. I LOVED my imagines but when I decided to "trade up" I was not happy. Mid's were typical of 'high end' sets (a little stuffy/muted midrange but PLENTY of low end bass)... tweeters were really aggressive on some notes especially "S" sounds from vocals. I had my l1pro's on 20khz 6db crossovers to attempt to tame them. awesome detail but then you just end up with unrealistic sound and some songs sound great others terrible. Don't even get me started on how un-forgiving they can be of less than stellar recordings.

on to the very short review:

only had them in for a day, so they are still breaking in. midbass is tight, powerful, and most of all VERY balanced through the midbass spectrum. (motor structure isnt as deep but it is even wider then the legatia's were.) midbass blends very very well with my sundown sa8v2's. overall love the midbass from these... it just sounds so perfectly balanced and fun to listen to. 

midrange. clear, forward, and not too in your face... "just about right"

tweeters. (i hate harsh high frequencies with a passion!) I tried them in the door mount AKA up high in my 07 tacoma doors, then moved them to the sail panels and am using the included 40 degree angle mounts. I have them facing the center of the truck and about shoulder aimed. so thats what... maybe 20 degreees off axis maybe even just 15! they are what others have described as CRISP and about as bright as you can get before I would dare call them harsh... they are juuuuuust on that fine line.

I tested them (crudely) using my galaxy s3 and a program called "frequensee". I was shocked at how damn near flat this setup was! nothing at all like the legatia or clarus was.

(keep in mind im in a tight pickup truck and I am a small guy so I am sitting pretty close to whatever speakers are installed so that as well as other factors could be why I like a set that is more forgiving on install.)

like I said I LOVED my imagines but for some reason just feel like the others need a dedicated midrange or something as it just never came together to sound like a complete set. and I tried EVERYTHING to remedy this short of processing. (i dont want that route as im running a panny bottlehead aka tx-5500)


any downside? sure if you want to try and run below 60hz (pretty darn deep bass for fronts if you ask me) then you will want something else. tweeters can be a touch AIRY/spacious sounding at times but mine arent even close to breaking in and seems to be slowly going away.

BOTTOM LINE: I dont have to fiddle with my stereo and I really really enjoy my music again!

this set has without a doubt set the bar for all other mid to budget ($400 or <) component speakers on the market PERIOD


----------



## Hondacru27

Hondacru27 said:


> I'm getting some issue's with the negative terminal pressdown locks coming loose causing my speaker to go in and out. Took the speaker out and got them screwed tighter only to have them back out again the next day.
> 
> Thinking of going the solder route but not sure if I should solder to the tabs on the bottom of the terminal plate or somehow get the pressdowns secured tight and a dab of something to keep em from backing out.
> 
> 
> I have a solder gun and also some super glue. best route?


I fixed the problem. First, I used superglue to keep the screw tight on the speaker press down plugs and they still came loose. I decided to solder the wires directly to the tabs under pressdowns and not a problem anymore. while I had the speakers out, I went ahead and closed up afew more access holes on the inner door skin and applied non hardening clay to the speaker baffle to ensure I don't get some cancellation. Bass is getting alittle more snappy and the snares more intense. Smiles all around!


----------



## skeelo34

I purchased a set after reading this thread as well. Frankly, I'm just not satisfied with the Hat Imagine speakers. Hopefully these turn out as well as the ppi 356cs set i got for $100 on here 3 yrs ago (that was such a great deal). These will be going into an e39 m5 (the ppi's are in my e46 m3 an sound fabulous).


----------



## 98koukile

Wondering if the flush and angle mounts are the same size for these, thinking I'll pick them up next time I see them for $180. I'm looking to see if I can fabricate a mount in the mirror covers which are more easily replaceable than the pillars.


----------



## neo_styles

They're the same diameter, but the angle mounts are pretty much twice as thick.


----------



## 98koukile

I was thinking of shooting them straight at each other since they'll be closer than they would be on the dash or the pillars, do you think these tweeters will sound good like that or should I try to get them on axis?


----------



## rexroadj

Velcro and experiment! Its easy and at least you know and make your own decision! 
I wouldnt try to get them completely on axis. Not really what they were intended for, although being metal they still sound pretty damn good on axis.
Dash isnt bad....I'm an A-pillar guy myself? 
STRONGLY recommend trying it out first!


----------



## 98koukile

I guess I'll just have to wait until I pick up a set then


----------



## rexroadj

Oh....sorry, forgot you didnt have them yet. Just dont want to see you try something and not be happy. Every situation is different.....always worth the "testing" to make sure your doing justice to your investment. Luckily tweeters are the easiest thing to sample around the vehicle


----------



## JSM-FA5

ok i do not have the time to read through 17 pages haha. initial review was good. i am a drummer as well. how is the bass drum/ toms in this speaker? i am looking at these and hybrid audio imagine. is the midbass and such strong and snap? (purchasing either one blind as local shops dont carry them.)


----------



## rexroadj

I would read through at least MOST of the pages! There are a lot of description about the tonal preferences you speak of.....and several regarding comparisons to the imagines. 
(I think most preferred the MS?)


----------



## dabreeze

Any way to fit these speakers in a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder with 2.25 mounting depth ?


----------



## thomasluke

dabreeze said:


> Any way to fit these speakers in a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder with 2.25 mounting depth ?


One word.....Starts with an S.


----------



## dabreeze

Hopefully, That word is constructive and not the usual S**t. I'd really like a good answer but since I'm a noobie maybe I'm asking too much. I've read 17 pages on these speakers and there really wasn't much spoken of depth problems. I know this is a DIY Forum but I intend on having a reputable sound shop do the install. 
I'm just looking for some info so I have a idea what to expect and what the challenges are going forward.


----------



## dabreeze

Oh, I'm going to get rid of the Bose/Clarion H/U and either put in a Pioneer Premier DEH p780mp or JVC Arsenal kd a735bt Receiver. Also, have a Fosgate p4004 amp that I plan on using bridged to the front stage. Keeping the OEM speakers in the rear. And possibly getting a 10" sub although from what i've read I might not need one.


----------



## rton20s

Can the Pathfinder fit a 6.5" or 6.75" mid at all? I thought they were setup for 5.25" speakers. That being said, the top mount depth on the MS-62C is 2.375". So long as you have room between the speaker and your door card, you should be ok. It will certainly require custom baffles and may require some trimming. A competent shop shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## dabreeze

According to Crutchfield and SonicElectronics and other sites both the front and rear doors fit 6.5 with the 2.25 mounting depth. So, I'm thinking that the shop should be able to handle the install ok. Sonic has the MS-62C as a speaker that fits but of course Crutchfield differs.


----------



## atbear

dabreeze said:


> Oh, I'm going to get rid of the Bose/Clarion H/U and either put in a Pioneer Premier DEH p780mp or JVC Arsenal kd a735bt Receiver. Also, have a Fosgate p4004 amp that I plan on using bridged to the front stage. Keeping the OEM speakers in the rear. And possibly getting a 10" sub although from what i've read I might not need one.


I got the JVC KD-A735BT for mine. I like the head unit, though it will not pair over Bluetooth with an iPhone running iOS 6. I think a lot of head units are having problems pairing with iOS 6... it's an Apple problem. Just a head's up.

I got my MS-62Cs installed last Friday. They sound great. I can't wait to install my Sound Deadener Showdown MLV/CCF. I think that'll really allow them to punch and mesh with my 2 8" JBL GTO804s better.

What's everybody using for their high pass on these? I have it set to 80 currently... low pass on the subs are set to about 110. This is all set at the amp. Thoughts?


----------



## schmiddr2

I think all 2way setups need a sub(s). If not just for SQ, then for enjoying the music a little more.

I am using 63Hz for both, HP mids, LP sub. But I'm using 24db slope. So what slope is your amps xovers?

BTW, to get an accurate xover point:



minbari said:


> you can do it if you have a test cd with freqs from 20-100hz and a multimeter.
> if you want to set it for, say, 80 hz. turn the crossover all the way up. then play a 80hz test signal.
> measure the signal level with multimeter (set on AC of course)
> take that number and multiply by .707
> turn down the crossover until it reads that voltage number for the 80 hz test track. should be close.


----------



## atbear

schmiddr2 said:


> I think all 2way setups need a sub(s). If not just for SQ, then for enjoying the music a little more.
> 
> I am using 63Hz for both, HP mids, LP sub. But I'm using 24db slope. So what slope is your amps xovers?
> 
> BTW, to get an accurate xover point:


What size sub are you using? I think my crossover slope on my amp is 12db, so that would extend even lower on the mids, which might be a bit much. Thanks.


----------



## schmiddr2

12" GTO in _oversized_ sealed enclosure.

Probably right. Kind of depends on the subwoofer/enclosure response also.


----------



## JSM-FA5

avanti1960 said:


> If you are looking for midbass (like myself, I am planning on using only the Imagine I6 woofer) then I would be very surprised if the JBL set sounds better.
> 
> The factory spec for the MS-62c lists a frequency response starting at 60Hz with no db range qualification or frequency response graph.
> 
> For example, a Scanspeak woofer on Madisound lists a frequency response of 37 to 5000 Hz. Yet you look at the frequency response graph and it shows 37Hz to be 8db lower than the midrange frequencies. Basically the 37Hz number is for marketing purposes and does not have a direct relationship to the speaker's ability to play low frequencies.
> 
> Looking at the HAT I6, its frequency response is listed as 50Hz to 22Khz =/- 3db. Also, HAT actually provided a frequency response graph that shows 50Hz to be flat with respect to the midrange frequencies and at 40Hz, down only 3db.
> On paper, this is very impressive.
> How they compare in real world use is another story and involves many variables.


reword for noobs! haha. as far as the actual sound. which has the strongest, tightest mid bass, and which of the two tweeters are the harshest?


----------



## dabreeze

Atbear, Happy to see that you are using the JVC KDA735BT. I'm still up in the air whether or not I'll use the JVC over the Pioneer Premier. Both h/units are similar in their specs the big difference is the bluetooth which as you say Apple has problems synching to the Iphone. In any case, my install might be a ways off since my Pathfinder has some fuel system needs that I have to address shortly. I have to get a new instrument cluster as well. The SUV has 240,000 miles on it and has served me well. It's just now starting to have a few headaches. Of course, their never is enough cash for the luxury items when mechanical problems exist. The good thing is that sifting thru the different forums I've been able to find what sound equipment I'll use whenever the cash is available for the install. After listening for 8 years to the factory Bose system my ears really need a change. I've never really ever been a subwoofer guy, I use the cargo area in the Pathy for delivery so I usually am just rely solely on front staging. From what I've been reading the MS-62C Components are a great start. Maybe some good mid bass drivers for the rear doors might be a good compliment to the JBL'S sacrificing the Sub. Although, I have seen where some folks on the Infinity/Pathfinder forum installed subs in the cargo area's side compartment storage door, that intrigues me. May have to look into that further. Good luck to you on your install. Happy Listening !


----------



## atbear

dabreeze said:


> Atbear, Happy to see that you are using the JVC KDA735BT. I'm still up in the air whether or not I'll use the JVC over the Pioneer Premier. Both h/units are similar in their specs the big difference is the bluetooth which as you say Apple has problems synching to the Iphone. In any case, my install might be a ways off since my Pathfinder has some fuel system needs that I have to address shortly. I have to get a new instrument cluster as well. The SUV has 240,000 miles on it and has served me well. It's just now starting to have a few headaches. Of course, their never is enough cash for the luxury items when mechanical problems exist. The good thing is that sifting thru the different forums I've been able to find what sound equipment I'll use whenever the cash is available for the install. After listening for 8 years to the factory Bose system my ears really need a change. I've never really ever been a subwoofer guy, I use the cargo area in the Pathy for delivery so I usually am just rely solely on front staging. From what I've been reading the MS-62C Components are a great start. Maybe some good mid bass drivers for the rear doors might be a good compliment to the JBL'S sacrificing the Sub. Although, I have seen where some folks on the Infinity/Pathfinder forum installed subs in the cargo area's side compartment storage door, that intrigues me. May have to look into that further. Good luck to you on your install. Happy Listening !


I'd like to report back that I did get the bluetooth on my JVC KD-A735BT working with my iPhone. User error.


----------



## neo_styles

Finally got around to bridging my comps and I'm very happy with the outcome. I just used the distance calculation for TA and my iPhone app for RTA adjustment since I don't have a lot of tools at my disposal, but the difference is very noticeable. Most of the cuts I had to make were at 8k and at a few additional points along the mid-upper midrange. Lower midrange and everything else were left untouched.

The biggest change came from the soundstaging and feeling of space. I did get a noticeable difference in midbass impact, but it's still not quite where I'd like it. I'm attributing that to the install since I've only really used CLD tiles and this is my first experience with properly deadening a car. That's not to say it doesn't have oomph, it's just not at that punch-in-the-chest quality I'm looking for.

Still hoping for an improvement after I pull the tweets out of the doors and put them up on the dash in the angle-mount cups. This should help with pushing the soundstage more on the hood instead of on the lip of the dash which is where I'm getting it now.

Can't wait to start playing the live bonus disc of Adele's 19 and really starting to feel like I'm there. I feel like I'm pretty close to it already, but it's just beyond my reach. Also, once I have some free time to take the DMM out to the trunk, I'll measure out how much power they're getting. It's hard to remember sometimes that the Eclipse HU has 8V preouts...


----------



## 98koukile

Sonic has these for $180 shipped, not too shabby considering everyone else is around $200 and they're an authorized dealer. Figured I'd let people know since I waited until they were back in stock to pull the trigger.


----------



## neo_styles

Yeah, it's no mystery that sonic charges so little, but being friends with a few shop owners/distributors, I don't necessarily feel as happy about sonic from a business standpoint. They're massively undercutting smaller businesses...

But this isn't a sonic ethics thread, so ignore my ramblings if you so choose.


----------



## 98koukile

I would happily pay more to support a local business. However the only place around here that has anything decent tries to show you their $1000 lines when you're looking to spend $300 and refuses to budge from that sales tactic even if you have something specific in mind. My father walked in looking to buy a whole system for his truck cash and walked out with nothing because they wanted to make more money than he wanted to spend... I can see it from your side very much though because normally I go to the local guy that will be there if I need a part today or tomorrow morning.


----------



## ZAKOH

neo_styles said:


> Yeah, it's no mystery that sonic charges so little, but being friends with a few shop owners/distributors, I don't necessarily feel as happy about sonic from a business standpoint. They're massively undercutting smaller businesses...
> 
> But this isn't a sonic ethics thread, so ignore my ramblings if you so choose.


Well, there is nothing new here. This has been the theme in retail since like forever. First Walmart, other big box chain retailers, and malls full of chain retailers roll over the local businesses. Then comes the e-commerce and internet. Dell, Amazon, Newegg, etc bleed B&M electronics stores with their direct sales. CompUSA and Circuit City are gone. Tirerack.com puts B&M tire vendors on a defensive. Amazon puts on defensive all of the chain book stores, causing many locations to close, and also puts a nail in coffin of many independent book stores. Sonicelectronix.com, Onlinecarstereo.com, Woofersetc, Amazon (car audio), etc are just another manifestation of consolidation of electronics sales online. The local audio shops are a special breed though, and many will strive. After all, their business is more than just selling equipment, but also installing. The smart ones will sell equipment at the cost or let customer bring his own but charge an honest price for labor.


----------



## 98koukile

What would be the best way to protect the tweeters in this set from low pass? Would using the crossovers just for the tweeter be a waste? Is there a more simple way that I'm just unaware of? Thanks for any help in advance, these will be here Wednesday and I'd likely install them on the first warm day that I can.


----------



## avanti1960

JSM-FA5 said:


> reword for noobs! haha. as far as the actual sound. which has the strongest, tightest mid bass, and which of the two tweeters are the harshest?


I cannot comment on the JBL's sound. Everyone seems to like them but since I was buying sight unseen I needed proven mid-bass response- the Imagine's midbass capabalities aree well documented. Since I was going to cross them at low midrange frequencies as part of my three way system, I did not care about their midrange clarity, tweeters or simple crossover.

*The Imagine drivers deliver the hard hitting bass- almost too much. I send 150 watts per driver and their impact is excellent. 
*The Imagine woofers sound harsh if I do not Low Pass them. Very harsh. I would not run them as part of a two-way system without a proper crossover network like the next step up in the HAT line has. 
*I do not use the Imagine tweeters but have read that they often need level attenuation if the tweeter is mounted high. Again, the next step up should help with this.
*I like my tweeters on axis, but have read that the JBL inverted domes (much like the Focals) should not be aimed on axis. 
It sounds like the JBLs could be very competitive with the HAT Unity's but at twice the price I would question the value. 
The JBL crossover allows the tweeter to be atenuated 0, -3 and -6db. It also has a phase reverse control. 
If you can run active the HATs may be the sure thing for bass- you could be happy without a subwoofer running these. 
If not running active I would avoid the Imagines.


----------



## Bayboy

The midbass of the JBL are pretty good. It is what I would expect from that sort of tier comp set. Like stated, are they the gospel on gobs of lower midbass? No! That would be hard to attain from any 2-way. It's a great midrange unit with good midbass. If you want more then you will need a sole midbass doing midbass only duty or a high power 2-way. Other than that I don't take anything away from the JBL


----------



## pjf1fan

I'm interested in this set also. I'm familiar with Boston Acoustics and Polk Audio but not JBL so I'm paying attention to what you all write.


----------



## calibre

I have to thank the contributors in this thread for convincing me these were the way to go, and i wouldn't even know about them as they have no plans to import them here to New Zealand. 

Have to admit I wasn't totally blown away out of the box, compared to some nicely loosened up Tsd-1720c Pioneers (with upgraded passive crossover) I had in their place, but that has completely changed over the days that they have been running in. I love these things now and totally see what the fuss is about, definitely the best set I have heard, I have a pretty modest system for this site standards (Alpine x305 Imprint tuned, Eclipse Ea4000 4ch 75wrms, Jbl GTO 1014 sealed 10", well deadened doors etc) and the clarity I'm getting now is really amazing, these tweeters are stunning to the point of that old cliche, uncovering detail in very familiar music etc. The mid bass is plenty to hold its own with the gto sub, and they are getting better by the day. 

The biggest thing I'm noticing is how wide the stage is now, with each set I have used before any head movement off the sweet spot and you lost the stage and it sounded very average, not with these! anyway, if you are still hesitating to pull the trigger, Id say do it.

and thanks again!

my 2c


----------



## 98koukile

98koukile said:


> What would be the best way to protect the tweeters in this set from low pass? Would using the crossovers just for the tweeter be a waste? Is there a more simple way that I'm just unaware of? Thanks for any help in advance, these will be here Wednesday and I'd likely install them on the first warm day that I can.


Anybody know the answer to this?


----------



## schmiddr2

Just put a capacitor in line. Car Audio - Speaker Crossover Chart and Capacitance vs. Frequency Calculator(High-pass)

Maybe a 22uF or a 17uF http://www.parts-express.com/cat/non-polarized-electrolytic-capacitors/293?kg=639|1875


----------



## hilander999

98koukile said:


> Anybody know the answer to this?


Most people use a cap inline. Normally 10uf will do fine.
Use a crossover calculator to find the exact value you need based on your crossover point and ohm load. Parts express has the good ones for about $5 each.

You don't want to use only one side of a 2-way crossover, so just order some caps. Ridiculous Shack has those tiny cheap little caps for about a buck if you need something in a hurry while you wait a few days for the good ones to be delivered.


----------



## rton20s

Good info above on the capacitor. Not sure what the resistance is on the MS-62C tweeter, but for my Imagine (4 Ohm) tweeters I went with an 8.2 UF Cap from parts express based on the manufacturer's recommendation. This works out to a -6 dB slope from about 4800 Hz. And keep in mind, this is simply for protection, not as a crossover. 

Dayton Audio PMPC-8.2 8.2uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor 027-242 

I didn't pay any attention to the physical dimensions and was SHOCKED to see how large the actual cap was when I got it in.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Can someone correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you suppose to use a protection cap value that put the crossover value at least 2 octaves below the intended active highpass crossover value? In order to have none of it's passive value influence the acoustics of the tweeter. IE for a 4 ohm tweeter with an intended highpass of 3kHz you'd need at least a 50uF. I know Npdang recommended a 27uF for his 8 ohm ribbon tweeter that was crossed over at 4 or 5kHz.


----------



## 98koukile

I'm not sure the crossover point yet as I'll be tuning with an ms8 so I guess I could ask Andy what he thinks. Would 10uf be good just for protection or do I need to be pretty exact to not damage the tweeters? Thank you guys for the help, just getting a few conflicting theories.


----------



## rton20s

The following is what was emailed to me by Scott Buwalda when I was asking him a similar question for my Imagine tweeters. (Keep in mind, I'm crossing "very high" compared to some other tweeters our there. 

The addition of a cap simply protects the tweeter from amplifier or processor damage/malfunction, and although it does add a certain level of crossover functionality, its main purpose is to just protect the tweeter. I can assure you that you will not hear the difference in a tweeter's frequency response when being crossed at 6,000 Hz whether it be 24 dB/octave or 30 dB/octave, no less a 6 dB down-point somewhere below the tweeter's electronic crossover, well outside of the passband. Promise!
It's a moot point. Just put an appropriate capacitor in there, say 8 uF, and cross at 24 dB/octave. Rest assured that it'll work just fine. A 6 dB/octave filter effect below the 6,000 Hz crossover point, on paper only, will introduce a 90-degree phase inversion in a perfect, utopian world (utopian world is not a car!) at the crossover frequency, which you will NEVER hear because the waveforms are so small, and because the cabin of your
car is one big mess of phasing anomalies anyway. Furthermore, music goes in and out of phase as a matter of course. 

And in a follow up email...

The only way a cap would interfere negatively with an electronic crossover is if the cap value sets the frequency considerably higher than the electronic crossover…for example, a cap at 6,000 Hz and an electronic crossover at 2,000 Hz. That truly would become an almost notch-filter. In your case, there is a certain degree of additive crossover functionality, but you’ll likely never hear that additional theoretical 6 dB/octave at 3,000 Hz (one octave below the cross-point), both from a tonal and phasing standpoint. Especially phasing. Tonal if you have the ears of a German Shepherd.


----------



## 98koukile

Andy said 20uf but I can only find 17 and 22, which side of the range do I want to err on?


----------



## 98koukile

Just got all my stuff in the mail, very impressed although I think I say that when anything is new lol. I tried to test them out with my scosche speaker adapters and even though those say they're for a 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 speaker these are too wide so it looks like I'll be using a spacer and the adapters will just be to simplify mounting to my car.


----------



## calibre

98koukile said:


> Just got all my stuff in the mail, very impressed although I think I say that when anything is new lol. I tried to test them out with my scosche speaker adapters and even though those say they're for a 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 speaker these are too wide so it looks like I'll be using a spacer and the adapters will just be to simplify mounting to my car.


Yep, the basket on the woofer is pretty chunky alright! I thought these being 6.5 would easily fit where my 6 3\4 pioneers were, but no chance. Was a good excuse to make up some fresh new beefier adapters anyway.


----------



## SeniorXJ

98koukile said:


> Sonic has these for $180 shipped, not too shabby considering everyone else is around $200 and they're an authorized dealer. Figured I'd let people know since I waited until they were back in stock to pull the trigger.


I was about to order these & so i put them in my shopping cart at Sonic a little over a week ago & when i went back to complete the order, the price for these is now $299 & not $179!!! WTF???

Would anyone in this thread or on this board know why Sonic would do such an incredible price jump on these?


----------



## Bayboy

SeniorXJ said:


> I was about to order these & so i put them in my shopping cart at Sonic a little over a week ago & when i went back to complete the order, the price for these is now $299 & not $179!!! WTF???
> 
> Would anyone in this thread or on this board know why Sonic would do such an incredible price jump on these?


They are on here..... perhaps you could ask them directly.


----------



## subwoofery

SeniorXJ said:


> I was about to order these & so i put them in my shopping cart at Sonic a little over a week ago & when i went back to complete the order, the price for these is now $299 & not $179!!! WTF???
> 
> Would anyone in this thread or on this board know why Sonic would do such an incredible price jump on these?


They must have read this thread :laugh:

Kelvin


----------



## schmiddr2

subwoofery said:


> They must have read this thread :laugh:
> 
> Kelvin


Indeed. I was thinking the same thing.

There are other places to buy them at about $180, but I'm not sure if JBL will warranty them or if the seller will warranty them or will have no warranty.


----------



## SeniorXJ

schmiddr2 said:


> Indeed. I was thinking the same thing.
> 
> There are other places to buy them at about $180, but I'm not sure if JBL will warranty them or if the seller will warranty them or will have no warranty.


Yeah i found them for $160 at Avenue Sound.

Not sure on there warranty, but then again i dont think ive ever needed one when buying speakers for as long as i can remember.


----------



## 98koukile

I ordered 22's from them per a recommendation. He said a 10% variance would be acceptable for a protection only setup


----------



## rton20s

Cool deal. Glad you got it worked out. Just hadn't seen anyone reply to that post.


----------



## rexroadj

I think this stuff needs to cease asap. The threads long and I'm tired of seeing the same damn question 20 times cause the threads to long (this **** is example #1). 
Just to hopefully shed light to what bayboy was saying......There is another thread regarding all this....I tend to agree with him. I agree with what was said about stock/prices. Its accurate. (many examples to be given).
Bottom line....WHO cares! Take it to the other thread please!


----------



## SeniorXJ

rexroadj said:


> I think this stuff needs to cease asap. The threads long and I'm tired of seeing the same damn question 20 times cause the threads to long (this **** is example #1).
> Just to hopefully shed light to what bayboy was saying......There is another thread regarding all this....I tend to agree with him. I agree with what was said about stock/prices. Its accurate. (many examples to be given).
> Bottom line....WHO cares! Take it to the other thread please!


Go to post #446 from badboy & that is why i opened another thread hoping my post wouldnt ruin this thread but badboy took care of that & im glad to see that a mod stepped in & cleaned it out! Thank you & my appologies if i was ever out of line!

Adding to the band wagon, i pulled the plug & ordered a set of these along with a set of JBL P662 coaxials for my rear fill. Will power them with my 4ch Lanzar at first but will eventualy pull the plug on a PPI 900.4 or a 4ch from there Black Ice line.


----------



## rexroadj

P coaxial are pretty great! Sounds like a good setup! Best of luck with it. Please chime back in with your results etc...!!!


----------



## Jrunr

I am new on here and just recently stumbled on the JBL MS-62C's while reading some things online. I just got a new Jeep Grand Cherokee and desparately want to change out the stock speakers. Everyone keeps trying to sell me the Focal comps but I am not really sure if they are that much better. 

I am pretty sure if I want to go with decent comps I am going to have to do some modding, but I really want good, detailed highs that aren't too harsh, but I also like good midbass. My plan is to run a JL audio stealthbox for the sub and power everything with either an Alpine PDX-9 or a JL 900/5 amp. (I cant have wires and amps and boxes all over the place so I need something as stealth as possible.)

Also, what would be the best speakers to put in the rear doors to match up with these? Did I need something with a titanium tweeter as well to match?

Thank you!


----------



## rexroadj

Jrunr said:


> I am new on here and just recently stumbled on the JBL MS-62C's while reading some things online. I just got a new Jeep Grand Cherokee and desparately want to change out the stock speakers. Everyone keeps trying to sell me the Focal comps but I am not really sure if they are that much better.
> 
> I am pretty sure if I want to go with decent comps I am going to have to do some modding, but I really want good, detailed highs that aren't too harsh, but I also like good midbass. My plan is to run a JL audio stealthbox for the sub and power everything with either an Alpine PDX-9 or a JL 900/5 amp. (I cant have wires and amps and boxes all over the place so I need something as stealth as possible.)
> 
> Also, what would be the best speakers to put in the rear doors to match up with these? Did I need something with a titanium tweeter as well to match?
> 
> Thank you!



Welcome! 
Good plan thus far by the way! Focal are/can be great! I'm a huge fan. Its tough when you cant listen to everything..... These may be a great fit for you......Lets gather some more intel before we go running our mouths 

Vehicle, placement of speakers, sound you like/musical preference, most important...what are your goals or expectations? Stealth is understood and appreciate! 
Rears...do you want need rears? Passengers? or for processing/media purposes? I am not a fan of soft dome tweets on coaxials....from an imaging stand point most make no sense.......that being said....P series coaxials sound great.....REALLY great on axis! your not going to get that in rear doors though (back deck maybe!). 

SO lets dig a little deeper and see if these will be a good match, and if not...what will?


----------



## Jrunr

rexroadj said:


> Welcome!
> Good plan thus far by the way! Focal are/can be great! I'm a huge fan. Its tough when you cant listen to everything..... These may be a great fit for you......Lets gather some more intel before we go running our mouths
> 
> Vehicle, placement of speakers, sound you like/musical preference, most important...what are your goals or expectations? Stealth is understood and appreciate!
> Rears...do you want need rears? Passengers? or for processing/media purposes? I am not a fan of soft dome tweets on coaxials....from an imaging stand point most make no sense.......that being said....P series coaxials sound great.....REALLY great on axis! your not going to get that in rear doors though (back deck maybe!).
> 
> SO lets dig a little deeper and see if these will be a good match, and if not...what will?


Well, these comps would go in the front doors with the tweeter position on top of the door panel in the stock location. As far as musical preference, well, I do like most everything you will hear on a contemporary music station; rock, country, hip hop, r&b, pop... I just want things to sound clean and detailed at both low and high volumes. 

As far as the speakers in the back, well, I jut want them to match up the the gain and add to the sound I am trying to achieve. I guess that would be a place to add good midbass as well, but I am rather new to this so I am not sure.

I also have a stock 3.5" speaker in the dash and 2" (i think) speakers on the pillars in the rear hatch.

Lastly, these are going to go in a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is well built and seems stout. That being said, what else can I do to mke these JBL or Focal comps sound the best? WIll the Alpine PDX-V9 amp be worthy and/or do these speakers justice?



I hope all of this information helps...

Thanks again!


----------



## rexroadj

Jrunr said:


> Well, these comps would go in the front doors with the tweeter position on top of the door panel in the stock location. As far as musical preference, well, I do like most everything you will hear on a contemporary music station; rock, country, hip hop, r&b, pop... I just want things to sound clean and detailed at both low and high volumes.
> 
> As far as the speakers in the back, well, I jut want them to match up the the gain and add to the sound I am trying to achieve. I guess that would be a place to add good midbass as well, but I am rather new to this so I am not sure.
> 
> I also have a stock 3.5" speaker in the dash and 2" (i think) speakers on the pillars in the rear hatch.
> 
> Lastly, these are going to go in a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is well built and seems stout. That being said, what else can I do to mke these JBL or Focal comps sound the best? WIll the Alpine PDX-V9 amp be worthy and/or do these speakers justice?
> 
> 
> 
> I hope all of this information helps...
> 
> Thanks again!


What deck will be used? Are you going to incorporate the system around the stock unit?

Here is what I would do personally based on your statements. The pdx-v9 is great! 
I also think the MS will fit your needs nicely. I would bridged the 4 channels of the v-9 to the MS and sub channel to sub. I would either ditch the rears (you will not miss them without proper processing imo) or just run them off deck power instead (stock rear speakers as well....of course you could upgrade). I dont think your going to be as happy with equal sound all around as you will be with a very stout front stage! Give the comps the power for the dynamics and midbass, treat your doors well with deadening (yes, those new jeeps are made great! LOVE EM! but you still have to treat them tune carefully, and ENJOY


----------



## Jrunr

DO I really need to bridge the amps for these front comp? Thats a lot of power (I thought 100wpc to the fronts was a lot!) You think I need 200wpc? Is there a better alternative to that?


----------



## rexroadj

Jrunr said:


> DO I really need to bridge the amps for these front comp? Thats a lot of power (I thought 100wpc to the fronts was a lot!) You think I need 200wpc? Is there a better alternative to that?


Here's what I have to say on that......... (got your pm by the way.....)
Try it both ways.....then you tell me  Need? no......but I think you and anyone else that has done this will agree with the end result! A. you will rarely/ever see 100 stereo and never see 200 bridged. However, the difference between the two power points will be enough to prove the point.

You be the judge though....easy to try!


----------



## Jrunr

This is using the crossover that comes with it, right? Will it be a problem that the woofer is in the door and the tweeter by the window? I think there is about 12-14" distance between them...

Also, I do plan on keeping the stock HU and running a LC7i between it and the Alpine Amp


----------



## rton20s

The configuration rexroadj described would use the supplied crossover. The distance shouldn't be an issue. If you ever decided to go "active" it could help correct some of the potential issues created by separating the mid and tweeter. Going active with the same amp would also mean less power to the mid as you'd be using one channel for each mid and one for each tweeter.


----------



## Jrunr

So, what should I put in the rear doors then? (I dont know why but I feel like I need to replace ALL the speakers in the Jeep. It has that 3.5" int he dash and those 2" in the rear pillars.)


----------



## rton20s

Your situation isn't to dissimilar to mine. My xB has a spot for 6.5" in the doors, 3.5" in the dash and 6.5" in the rear hatch area. I ended up going with a single set of 6.5" components active + a subwoofer with no rear fill. The 3.5" dash speakers and rear speakers are staying in place and being disconnected from the system all together.


----------



## Jrunr

In the same approximate price range I can get the Focal IS 165 or PS 165 comps. (Which it appears that a lot of people on the JGC scene are using) Do you guys think they are even comparable to the MS?


----------



## cyrusthevirus23

Jrunr said:


> I am new on here and just recently stumbled on the JBL MS-62C's while reading some things online. I just got a new Jeep Grand Cherokee and desparately want to change out the stock speakers. Everyone keeps trying to sell me the Focal comps but I am not really sure if they are that much better.
> 
> I am pretty sure if I want to go with decent comps I am going to have to do some modding, but I really want good, detailed highs that aren't too harsh, but I also like good midbass. My plan is to run a JL audio stealthbox for the sub and power everything with either an Alpine PDX-9 or a JL 900/5 amp. (I cant have wires and amps and boxes all over the place so I need something as stealth as possible.)
> 
> Also, what would be the best speakers to put in the rear doors to match up with these? Did I need something with a titanium tweeter as well to match?
> 
> Thank you!



image dynamic comps would be a good choice


----------



## rexroadj

cyrusthevirus23 said:


> image dynamic comps would be a good choice


Not that I disagree.......but do you plan on explaining an actual reason to qualify your statement for the gentleman that asked the question?


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## SeniorXJ

The JBL MS-62c can still be found at the $180 mark just as i did. Google is ur friend!!


----------



## ZAKOH

Jrunr said:


> In the same approximate price range I can get the Focal IS 165 or PS 165 comps. (Which it appears that a lot of people on the JGC scene are using) Do you guys think they are even comparable to the MS?



I have read a detailed review of PS 165 comps (in russian). These have some similarity with Hybrid Audio Imagine: paper cone with relatively wide bandwidth, high resonance tweeter, primitive tweeter crossover, bad upper midrange dispersion off axis due to beaming. I suspect that Focals are like Hybrid Audio Imagine in the sense of requiring considerable tweaking, or maybe even an obligatory active front stage setup to sound right. Once tuned they should sound great. But from the reviews of the JBL comps, I get a feeling that they have a greater potential to sound good out of box. You probably won't be disappointed with either. Just 2c.


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## Jrunr

Awesome. Thank you for that. I do plan on only running an Alpine PDX-V9 for the whole system and I was afraid that the JBL's would want more power than the Alpine would be putting out and I would have to bridge the 4 channels into 2 to give them more power. I really don't want to do that, as I am wanting rear fill speakers as well. I just want to do this right the first time, if you know what I mean.


----------



## Need-sq

I know it's slightly off topic but I'm thinking if getting one of these two sets. The Ms sounds great although I've never been a metal tweet guy. I have a Saab 95 wagon. Stock locations in front are miss in lower doors, tweets would replace the stupid 2.5"a on the dash firing up at the windshield. could probably angle them a bit more on axis. Center 2.5"disconnected. Rears disconnected. Sub umpteen at this point and source unknown. My wifes car so she wants BT and the rest.thinking of a Kentwood Ddx 419 or 470 or 770. Going passive.power will be from an ESX q60.4 or us amps x5600. The problem is I want to bridge for more power But she wants rears for our daughter so she can listen also. Guess I could keep stock and power from source. After all that long winded crap I guess my simple question is how do you think the tweets will do in that windshield up firing location? I've heard a few I incredible cars with tweets in this location but the systems probably cost fifty times mores than mine will and allot if that money was on proper prep and install. I'll shut up now. Any responses would be very much appreciated. Thanks all.


----------



## calibre

I don't think your the only anti metal tweet guy that is very happy with this set, I've always gone for soft domes too, but these are sweeter and more detailed than any silk domes I've ever owned anyway.


----------



## Bayboy

Need-sq said:


> I know it's slightly off topic but I'm thinking if getting one of these two sets. The Ms sounds great although I've never been a metal tweet guy. I have a Saab 95 wagon. Stock locations in front are miss in lower doors, tweets would replace the stupid 2.5"a on the dash firing up at the windshield. could probably angle them a bit more on axis. Center 2.5"disconnected. Rears disconnected. Sub umpteen at this point and source unknown. My wifes car so she wants BT and the rest.thinking of a Kentwood Ddx 419 or 470 or 770. Going passive.power will be from an ESX q60.4 or us amps x5600. The problem is I want to bridge for more power But she wants rears for our daughter so she can listen also. Guess I could keep stock and power from source. After all that long winded crap I guess my simple question is how do you think the tweets will do in that windshield up firing location? I've heard a few I incredible cars with tweets in this location but the systems probably cost fifty times mores than mine will and allot if that money was on proper prep and install. I'll shut up now. Any responses would be very much appreciated. Thanks all.


I wouldn't recommend firing these particular tweeters up @ the windshield. Even though it will be directly off-axis the sound reflecting off of the windshield will not be. The tweets can be kind of harsh when on-axis so you can see where that's going. 

As far as comparison to others I've heard (soft & hard dome), these so far have the best off-axis response and you can tell they were obviously meant to be that way. How the other cars were prepped & how much money spent should not be an influence in your decision. Each car is definitely different not to mention tuning. What the JBL does is place a great foundation that doesn't take much manipulation to sound good. You still will have to deal with anomalies in the car you are installing them into, but that's car related not driver. 

You could always temporarily set the tweeters up in different locations/positions with velcro until you find the "sweet spot", then go from there. That is how mines are right now. I've tried the tweets on the kicks and they were rather weak down low. Placed them more on-axis on the dash and immediately had to start fiddling with the levels & upper EQ so that was a no go. No matter what I tried, the best in my ride is in the corners of the dash/A-pillar, off-axis with the drivers side with a few degrees inward to help make up for seating position. That will most likely be their home position to base a permanent pillar install from should I keep them.


----------



## Need-sq

Bayboy said:


> I wouldn't recommend firing these particular tweeters up @ the windshield. Even though it will be directly off-axis the sound reflecting off of the windshield will not be. The tweets can be kind of harsh when on-axis so you can see where that's going.
> 
> As far as comparison to others I've heard (soft & hard dome), these so far have the best off-axis response and you can tell they were obviously meant to be that way. How the other cars were prepped & how much money spent should not be an influence in your decision. Each car is definitely different not to mention tuning. What the JBL does is place a great foundation that doesn't take much manipulation to sound good. You still will have to deal with anomalies in the car you are installing them into, but that's car related not driver.
> 
> You could always temporarily set the tweeters up in different locations/positions with velcro until you find the "sweet spot", then go from there. That is how mines are right now. I've tried the tweets on the kicks and they were rather weak down low. Placed them more on-axis on the dash and immediately had to start fiddling with the levels & upper EQ so that was a no go. No matter what I tried, the best in my ride is in the corners of the dash/A-pillar, off-axis with the drivers side with a few degrees inward to help make up for seating position. That will most likely be their home position to base a permanent pillar install from should I keep them.


Thanks a lot for your detailed response. I'll update with news. I do think I will purchase them.


----------



## SeniorXJ

Finally got my JBL MS-62c & a set of JBL P662 coaxials into my hands the other day & cant wait to get them in. Also picked up a KnuKonceptz 4g wiring kit for the 4ch amp powering them. Now its just a matter of gettin the doors deadened good enough & i'll post my mini review on em then!!


----------



## Jrunr

What are you installing them in? What amp are you using? I am installing them in a 2013 Jeep Gramd Cherokee but I am debating on whether I should use the P662 or the GT068 coax speakers in the rear doors...


----------



## SeniorXJ

Jrunr said:


> What are you installing them in? What amp are you using? I am installing them in a 2013 Jeep Gramd Cherokee but I am debating on whether I should use the P662 or the GT068 coax speakers in the rear doors...


There going in a Jeep Cherokee XJ, (not the grand), & will be powered by an oldschool lanzar to start with, but i'll more then likely pick up a PPI 900.4 or one of there Black Ice amps to replace it. The P662 JBL coaxials are the loudest of the bunch so if ur stickin with JBL's like i did, then there ur only choice!


----------



## Jrunr

The loudest? I am just going to be using them in my rear doors so I don't necessarily need the "loudest" speakers. I just want the ones that will mesh/blend with the MS-62C components I'm putting in the front doors. 

I think the price difference between these and the GT series is only about $30-$40 so I'm still trying to decide which is best... Plus, it was recommended that I bridge the channels of my Alpine PDX-V9 for these in the front and to let the deck power the rear speakers.... But we shall see how it all turns out...


----------



## SeniorXJ

Jrunr said:


> The loudest? I am just going to be using them in my rear doors so I don't necessarily need the "loudest" speakers. I just want the ones that will mesh/blend with the MS-62C components I'm putting in the front doors.
> 
> I think the price difference between these and the GT series is only about $30-$40 so I'm still trying to decide which is best... Plus, it was recommended that I bridge the channels of my Alpine PDX-V9 for these in the front and to let the deck power the rear speakers.... But we shall see how it all turns out...


Sorry, what i ment by the loudest is that there the better of the 2 coaxials that u listed in the 6.5" size & they can be had for $85 bucks which is a good price!


----------



## Daysf1

kizz said:


> what is the xover point on the passives?



I am in the process of trying to wring out specs from jbl but they are being very tight lipped. The only thing they told me so far is that they recommend a tweeter crossover point of 3375hz -24 db slope.


----------



## Jrunr

If I were to run a center "dash speaker" along with these in the front doors, would I have to match it up or would another brand be ok? I have a 3.5" in there from the factory, but I think I may be able to fit a 4" speaker or comp set in there. (it really lifts the soundstage in the front and I am unable to do any custom cutting or mount to the comps in the door) 

I took some pics of the factory speaker in the dash and the grill that covers it so you can see what I have to work with on this jeep. Do you think i can up it to a 4" comp set as long as it is a shallow mount? If not, will any good 3.5" coax work? 

Suggestions? Please?








[/IMG]








[/IMG]








[/IMG]


----------



## rexroadj

I say always try what you have first...especially in the case of a center! Give that a whirl, do the most you can with it/most out of it and address later if need be?


----------



## Jrunr

Why can't these speakers have a 4" comp set as well? Damn! lol

Also, is there a way to mount the tweeters on these to make them look like a coax? Just a random question of curiosity there...


----------



## rexroadj

Jrunr said:


> Also, is there a way to mount the tweeters on these to make them look like a coax? Just a random question of curiosity there...


Afraid not......However building a suitable "bridge" ala CDT is not that hard. Got an erector set? LOL.....you get the idea......its really really easy to do though


----------



## thomasluke

rexroadj said:


> Afraid not......However building a suitable "bridge" ala CDT is not that hard. Got an erector set? LOL.....you get the idea......its really really easy to do though


Items needed...

1) 1/8" sheet of abs
2) a heat gun or small torch
3) Angle cups( supplied with the set...WIN)
4) A little super glue

With the way the tweets on this are able to put out I bet it would actually be a damn good sounding set up.


----------



## NHgranite

How would you guys compare the MS-62c to a set of Focal 165 V30?

I'm in the market for a new set of components and don't mind spending a bit more $$ if there is a noticeable difference.


----------



## Kevin C

Well its been 5 months and my right side tweeter is crackling when volume is turned up past the mid-upper level.
I thought i heard the occasional snap to the tweet after first instal, but assumed it was the source material.
The set is run with 100 rms off a alpine 4 ch amp bridged and balanced/gains set using a volt meter. there is no clipping and i dont exceed the 29-30 vol thresehold ,assuming the 9815 hu starts clipping around the 32 vol level(gain set level).
I assume a bad tweet from the start.
I contacted JBL after the online retailer i bought from suggested i contact JBL for warranty purpose.
Problem is , the retailer i bought from off ebay is a USA retailer and NOT an authorized dealer of JBL.
Being Canadian, I am SOL according to JBL.
JBL reps in Canada are being very helpful in backing their product tho.
They responded that i can buy a replacement tweeter although its back ordered 4-6 weeks.
cost per tweeter is $18.88 plus 9.99 shipping ...Not too bad , Whew!

Otherwise this set is still fantastic , punchy at 63hz xover, very clean highs , tweeter is set at 0db attuneuation.running passive so far.


----------



## Kevin C

NHgranite said:


> How would you guys compare the MS-62c to a set of Focal 165 V30?
> 
> I'm in the market for a new set of components and don't mind spending a bit more $$ if there is a noticeable difference.


I had a set of Focal poly 6.5 with the ti inverted tweets...The JBL set is smoother in the low and mid area , probly due to fiberglass cones vs the poly.
the JBL tweets are noticably smoother , the focal tweets were nice , same design,its just the JBLs arnt quite as bright sounding , but still very clean.

I am starting to have a problem with one tweet tho,easily replaced .
In comparison the Focal tweets i had also gave me trouble after a couple years , one stopped working completely. quality wise i am sure Focal and JBL are both great.
For me , it was the JBL ms-62c set or a set of Hertz milles , The hertz being more than twice the price ...I am still glad i went with the ms-62c.


----------



## johnnynguy3n

Are you guys running passive or active xovers?

If active, what are your hpf and lpf settings?


----------



## Alrojoca

Hi, nice long thread lots of topics, great info and tips. Thanks!
One comment and one question.

I was going to get a set of P660C, but at BB they were gone 2 weeks after I saw them. Now I will get a chance to get these since i have access to BB employee discount, hope i can get them cheap, and based on what I read here looks like they may handle good power.

My question, my plan is to use a infinity kappa 4 amp (125 watts each ch) and bridge rears for sub. Or use a kappa five bridging the four channels for 3 way Config ( 150 watts per ch for the fronts) and the mono ch for the sub.

Which amp would you choose to drive the MS-62 set I'll stick with passive x overs for now until I upgrade the HU with better x overs and TA.


----------



## schmiddr2

This thread has gotten to the point it's hard to skim through quickly.

I think most people are running active about 63-80Hz hp and 2.5KHz h/lp.

As for how much power, read more. I can tell you that more power doesn't hurt anything, but you should know why and how to use it wisely.


----------



## rexroadj

schmiddr2 said:


> This thread has gotten to the point it's hard to skim through quickly.
> 
> I think most people are running active about 63-80Hz hp and 2.5KHz h/lp.
> 
> As for how much power, read more. I can tell you that more power doesn't hurt anything, but you should know why and how to use it wisely.


What he said 

I think your 5channel idea is a good one though!


----------



## rton20s

Agreed on the 5 channel. Since you can get the BB employee discount, you might want to check out the MRX-V70 and PDX-V9.


----------



## Alrojoca

Thanks for quick responses, I would love an Alpine amp, but I already have the kappa's, my guess is the 5 ch is the choice not for just the extra 25 w/ ch bridged but rather the option of going active in the future without loossing the sub amp, it makes sense unless I'm missing something else.


----------



## atownmack

Im considering buying these due to the stellar reviews and reasonable price! Are these speakers good for running with a subwoofer?


----------



## Bayboy

atownmack said:


> Im considering buying these due to the stellar reviews and reasonable price! Are these speakers good for running with a subwoofer?



Of course.... I wouldn't run them without a sub unless you are willing to sacrifice some upper volume or lower bass output. They have some good midbass, but excellent midrange so if you can cut off the lower end (60-100hz) you will be able to open them up a bit more cleanly. Of course that's just about with any midwoofer pulling midbass/midrange duty.


----------



## c_nitty

Do you think this bravox set has better or equal sq and I know it's 6x8 vs 6.5? Parts Express


----------



## preezy

Thanks guys for all the reviews and comments! I'm probably going to pick these up soon, but I have one question. I looked up the prices on these a few weeks ago and I swear these were all over the place for about $170 shipped. Are these being discontinued, or are retailers catching on to how good these are and are adjusting prices?


----------



## c_nitty

preezy said:


> Thanks guys for all the reviews and comments! I'm probably going to pick these up soon, but I have one question. I looked up the prices on these a few weeks ago and I swear these were all over the place for about $170 shipped. Are these being discontinued, or are retailers catching on to how good these are and are adjusting prices?


You got it same for me waited and missed 4 on ebay last week at $175 now sellers are jacking up the prices. Ill


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## c_nitty

I'll wait for a used set.


----------



## [email protected]

there is a set for 200

JBL MS 62C 2 Way 6 5" Car Speaker 050036312707 | eBay


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## preezy

Thanks for letting us know! I'm going to be emailing retailers to see if anybody will sell for $180 shipped. I'll let you guys know if anybody bites


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## AStephan

Maybe the prices went up because stock is so low? I know Crutchfield has the on back order.


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## Jrunr

Is there anyway I can pair this tweeter up with another 4" comp woofer and still have it sound good paired up my MS-62c comps in my front doors? I want to run the center speaker but I want it to match sonically. I know it sounds crazy, but this is what I want to do, so I how do I make it sound good? Or is it not possible?


----------



## Jrunr

If not, what about a speaker that will mix well with the MS-62c's?


----------



## rton20s

Not that I have even heard one, but you might look into the Focal Access 100CA1 SG. These have a fiberglass woofer and inverted dome tweeter, similar to the MS-62C. Unfortunately for you, it would likely mean buying a pair of these just to test and find out.


----------



## c_nitty

preezy said:


> Thanks for letting us know! I'm going to be emailing retailers to see if anybody will sell for $180 shipped. I'll let you guys know if anybody bites


Please do.


----------



## Pillow

I just purchased a set from Trumpet. PM him for more since he is a JBL dealer.


----------



## c_nitty

Pillow said:


> I just purchased a set from Trumpet. PM him for more since he is a JBL dealer.


For how much ?


----------



## rton20s

c_nitty said:


> For how much ?


Dude...



Pillow said:


> PM him for more since he is a JBL dealer.


He probably doesn't want prices posted.


----------



## Pillow

Agreed. I would rather Trumpet comment than me. Since he is a B&M store rather than an online discount retailer his pricing model is a little different. 

FWIW I got a good deal from Trumpet and he was easy to work with. Just PM Trumpet and see what he can do for you.


----------



## Pillow

First impressions are right on the reviews here. 

I hooked the speakers up active off of a PPI Phantom P900.4, so I have no idea what the crossovers will do - but the crossovers are top notch quality similar to the good old MBQs. 

The tweeters are excellent! Very similar to the MBQ QTD25s, which is saying a lot! Very smooth and crisp, just like a good metal dome should be. Silks never seem crisp IMO. 

Mids are hard to tell since they aren't properly mounted. They sound wonderful in the upper midrange so far. Great on shredding guitar which is hard to keep up with. On the negative side the x-max on these is small... I doubt these will be lower midbass bellbottom flappers. 

Again this is the test bench... Give me a little time to set them up in the CTS-V. Just stock locations with a proper install with deadening and clay. 

I turned these up LOUD and they still played clear, on about 100x4wrms! So big props there. I switched out from PG RSd components back to back and the RSds would break up badly when pushed hard. Same amp and everything being equal. 

... I would like to see what the Silver Flutes would do with these tweeters 

More to come. But so far for the money they seem to be hard to beat. Again the tweeters carry the set.


----------



## Bayboy

I don't think gobs of lower midbass/upper bass are what they were designed for truthfully. A good SQ 2-way set should cover the midrange & up with good dynamics & fundamentals which is what they do a great job of. For more bottom end I would look to a 3-way or stout midbass w/ wideband.


----------



## audiozone

How does this set compare to CDT HD 6.5 2 way set??

THANKS!


----------



## SeniorXJ

Now that I finally have my MS-62s amped up & the 80PRS wired in, I just have one thing to say & add to this thread... HOLY ****!!! My gains are at zero & i'm running them passive as there's still lots of tuning options on the 80prs, plus i'm still learning its xover points, TA, & auto eq. I'm now startin to slowly feed them more & more & these puppies just keep taking & taking the power & dishing it right out!!! I have there P662s in the rear & even those are dishing out some serious power!!!

PROPS TO JBL ON THIS COMP SET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## SkodaFan

Can anyone compare these with the Rainbow DreamLine C6.2 speakers? I have these but the tweeters are a bit harsh so I'm thinking of swapping them for these JBL MS62C's. My car is a 2013 UK Skoda Fabia Hatchback 1.2 TSI 105 DSG.


----------



## sweeneyp

I just installed these in my 08 toyota highlander about 2 months ago. I previously had a set of Hertz ECX-690's (which had an entire tweeter fail (both tweeters on the speaker...weird)) 6x9's. The imagine is so much better (granted its compontent), but still I would highly recommend them.

I'm giving them somewhere between 60-70watts. I've noticed they will distort due to excessive cone movement with the HPF set at 55hz, I plan to reaise it to 60-65hz to see how that improves things. Even with that, best set of speakers I've ever had (granted I'm just now slowly moving up in quality)

hm...guess it won't let me include images...oh well :laugh:


----------



## montyburns

sweeneyp said:


> I just installed these in my 08 toyota highlander about 2 months ago. I previously had a set of Hertz ECX-690's (which had an entire tweeter fail (both tweeters on the speaker...weird)) 6x9's. The imagine is so much better (granted its compontent), but still I would highly recommend them.
> 
> I'm giving them somewhere between 60-70watts. I've noticed they will distort due to excessive cone movement with the HPF set at 55hz, I plan to reaise it to 60-65hz to see how that improves things. Even with that, best set of speakers I've ever had (granted I'm just now slowly moving up in quality)
> 
> hm...guess it won't let me include images...oh well :laugh:


What kind of car, and how is your door treated?


----------



## sweeneyp

montyburns said:


> What kind of car, and how is your door treated?


'08 Toyota Highlander (Crossover)

Well I used Fatmat Rattletrap before I learned what it was/how to properly use CLD panels/sounddeadening  But outer door wall is covered with Fatmat (probably 60-80% coverage). Contrary to popular belief about fatmat, after 2.5 years in a black car (aka oven) its still holding strong. Then I used thin steel sheets cut to the shape of the openings in the inner door to plug the openings. Then put a solid single layer of Fatmat over the entire inner door wall to hold the sheets of steel in place/create an enclosure. Speaker is installed in a 3/4" MDF adapter (stock size is a 6x9). Used buytl tape/rope to seal the wood to the door and the speaker to the wood. I have a big roll of MLV just waiting to be installed in my car, so I'll properly be deadening the doors with CCF and MLV in the next 1 to 2 weeks.

Its powered from a Pioneer GM-D9500F.


----------



## montyburns

sweeneyp said:


> '08 Toyota Highlander (Crossover)
> 
> Well I used Fatmat Rattletrap before I learned what it was/how to properly use CLD panels/sounddeadening  But outer door wall is covered with Fatmat (probably 60-80% coverage). Contrary to popular belief about fatmat, after 2.5 years in a black car (aka oven) its still holding strong. Then I used thin steel sheets cut to the shape of the openings in the inner door to plug the openings. Then put a solid single layer of Fatmat over the entire inner door wall to hold the sheets of steel in place/create an enclosure. Speaker is installed in a 3/4" MDF adapter (stock size is a 6x9). Used buytl tape/rope to seal the wood to the door and the speaker to the wood. I have a big roll of MLV just waiting to be installed in my car, so I'll properly be deadening the doors with CCF and MLV in the next 1 to 2 weeks.
> 
> Its powered from a Pioneer GM-D9500F.


Sounds like you've got it covered, pun def intended. 
One more question... how was the midbass of the 6x9 by comparison? That's a fair bit more cone area..


----------



## sweeneyp

montyburns said:


> Sounds like you've got it covered, pun def intended.
> One more question... how was the midbass of the 6x9 by comparison? That's a fair bit more cone area..


:laugh:

Well I've had 2 6x9's before this JBL set. 

-I had a set of Pioneer TS-D6902r. It had a fairly heavy cone, great bass/midbass for a 6x9. Didn't have the greatest upper end though, sounded slightly muted is the best way I can put it.

-The Hertz ECX-690 had a much lighter cone. It didn't have as much bass or midbass, but was much sharper and brighter sounding. I would say its comparable to the JBL set right now.

Though I played those through my Toyota OEM navi unit. It EQ'd the crap out of the signal and removed a lot of the bass. I just recently ran a dedicated input bypassing my radio and going straight to my amps, and the JBL speakers sound 10x better than they did before that. The Hertz and Pioneer could have probably sounded better/fuller with the direct connection as well...


----------



## adrianp89

Looking at these guys to install soon.

I have two options... run active at 65 watts per channel and give my MS8 a bit more control over each speaker, or run the passive at 250watts per side and less control with the MS8... what do you guys think?


----------



## hilander999

the727kid said:


> Looking at these guys to install soon.
> 
> I have two options... run active at 65 watts per channel and give my MS8 a bit more control over each speaker, or run the passive at 250watts per side and less control with the MS8... what do you guys think?


You also have the option of running the tweeters off the MS8 internal amp and running active with 250 to the mids.


----------



## adrianp89

Yes I though about that, I wasn't sure if 20-30 watts for the tweeters would be enough with 250 going to the mids.


----------



## rton20s

I don't think it would be too much of an issue. You have to keep in mind the sensitivity of each driver, the perceived loudness of given frequencies and your ability to level match each of the drivers. It might only take 20w of power to make your tweeters unbearably loud. But it might take 10 times that power to get your mids to the same level. 

Also keep in mind that just because you have 250w available bridged that doesn't mean it is what you'll be feeding the mid. Headroom is a good thing and level matching those mids to the tweeters off of the MS8 should keep your gain down and reduce distortion.


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## adrianp89

I've always been big on having lots of headroom thats why the 20 watts bothers me. I really like the idea of running them active and letting the MS8 do its magic so that may be the way to go.


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## rton20s

Worst case scenario, you try the configuration and don't like it. You can always switch it up.


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## adrianp89

Of course, I think it might work though I don't crank it like I used to.


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## MOBrooks

I just got mine from Trumpet and cannot wait to finish getting them installed. He was great to deal with and very helpful with install ideas. I am definitely interested in hearing how the MS-8 works as I'm thinking about doing the same. All the excitement over these speakers is going to hard to live up to but, coming from stock mach 460, these should make the long drives much more enjoyable! LOL at the last comment! :laugh:


----------



## Bayboy

I have one mid that went out... sounded like the coil was damaged (scrubbing sound). Removed the drivers to inspect and found out is a bad lead or connection to the post. I can move the cone through it's full excursion and still is very smooth. Was never abused so I'm not sure what happened. Using a ball point pen to move the lead while hooked up on my home amp to check for the break and it seems near the binding post. Seems secure so I'm not sure what I'm going to do.... bought from a cheaper alternative so I highly doubt they're covered. Even if so I'm quite sure they will say they're abused (overexcursion) which I know they're not! I contacted Harman about a replacement and this was their reply:

"Thank you for your inquiry.

We do not have the woofers in stock as a seprate part for the MS62C.

Thanks & regards,"

Hmmm... back in the closet they go until a solution, but I'm not sure I'm going to attempt a repair for now.. maybe later before totally nixing them for parts.

Lesson learned... if it's a bit costly, buy authorized!


----------



## K-Mike

Yeah I actually picked up the last one sonic electronics had in stock so or seven months ago for 159.99! And they are authorized, one of my mids just stopped playing, couldn't find any obvious reason and tested it and all the other suspect components. Finally decided to send it back for warranty repair. Sonic gave me the option to send it to them or JBl, sent it to them and have another one in the mail on it's way to me, so pretty good to buy from them.


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## Bayboy

Sent them an email showing the date of purchase, paypal transaction ID #, plus shipping address. Keep my fingers crossed, but not going to expect anything. If they won't warranty it, then I guess I'm SOL. Still confused how the mid went out. Had them crossed at 100hz @ -24db on a medium powered amp. Solder joint seems good.... just died a rather quick death.


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## schmiddr2

Looking at the recent price jump on JBL products at Sonic, it seems they are having to comply with the JBL re-seller rules now to remain an authorized dealer, but JBL has warrantied products bought from Sonic for at least the past 3 years. Just call JBL if it comes up and they will give you an RMA #.


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## trumpet

I'm waiting for the warranty exchange process to get me a full set back from my JBL distributor. I had a customer have a mid go bad, making a scratchy sound, and the way I handled it was to pull a new mid from a set in stock and put his bad mid in the package, then I sent the whole set back. I'm out a set and my source doesn't have any in stock. I haven't dealt with JBL directly for warranty purposes.


----------



## Bayboy

Good news! JBL gave me an RA# for my set like Savinglots stated. Keeping my fingers crossed on this one. Still, if anyone tries to go cheap, don't chance it. After inspection of the mid, there was no damage to the mid that I've seen that I could have done. Short in the tinsel lead.... never seen that one before so hopefully it will get a full warranty replacement.


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## Hondacru27

I Have had the same happen to both of my mids. the Leads get loose and I knew that if JBL puts new leads on and terminals, it will happen again. I went and did a solder job with having a set of wires soldered to the the terminals them selves and bypass the screw down. everything is soldered as one piece. Never had a problem since.

This all happened roughly about a week of having them. I have them active with 120-140 watts to them per speaker.


----------



## atbear

I installed mine in the front of my Tundra powered by an Alpine PDX-V9 (also have rear fills and two subs in the back). About a month after install, my system would cut out. I brought it to my audio shop and they said that the driver's side mid is shot (open voice coil) and the amp won't come out of Protect. I'm not sure if the speaker blew the amp, or the amp blew the speaker. I've got a new amp on the way, but haven't had a chance to contact the speaker shop yet (SavingLots). Badboy, sounds like that's where you got yours too? SavingLots pointed you straight to JBL to deal with the warranty? Did they try to handle it themselves at all? Any indication whether you'd expect a replacement or a repair? Did you get any timeframe? Thanks.


----------



## casey

going to be picking some of these up soon. will be running them passive, trying to keep things simple. should i bridge my amp to run 215w a side through them or stay at 75w? I guess i can try it both ways but Id like some headroom on them, but not sure if thats overkill


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## schmiddr2

It's fine, that's how mine is now. But you're not going to clip the amp with 75W either.


----------



## lucky

Does anyone else notice it seems the tweeter phase jumpers change the phase of both the tweeters and mids?


----------



## Bayboy

atbear said:


> I installed mine in the front of my Tundra powered by an Alpine PDX-V9 (also have rear fills and two subs in the back). About a month after install, my system would cut out. I brought it to my audio shop and they said that the driver's side mid is shot (open voice coil) and the amp won't come out of Protect. I'm not sure if the speaker blew the amp, or the amp blew the speaker. I've got a new amp on the way, but haven't had a chance to contact the speaker shop yet (SavingLots). Badboy, sounds like that's where you got yours too? SavingLots pointed you straight to JBL to deal with the warranty? Did they try to handle it themselves at all? Any indication whether you'd expect a replacement or a repair? Did you get any timeframe? Thanks.




Sorry for the delayed response. Apparently that's how some retailers handle it which is perfectly legit as long as they are authorized. I contacted JBL and got a RA#. I've sent it off some time ago, but they say it takes at least 4 days before they look at it or whatever. I've heard before that JBL is a little slow. That's cool as long as I get a return. From what I understand they don't repair that particular set. They send out a new one and perhaps the repaird set is sold later as refurbished. Honestly it would seem to me that a repair would be better as they are fixing a common manufacture issue that would occur on a new set thus making the refurb more reliable. Just my 2 cents. 

As of now I'm not sure I will put them back in. Nice set, but the tinsel lead issue seems like a common problem. That set isn't some $75 comp set either so that's a bit disappointing. Probably going back to raw after this deal.


----------



## Hondacru27

What's the OHM load on the mid and tweeters without using the crossover? Just picked up another car and they run tweeters in the deck from the factory so I did the same with this set and I get protection mode on my alpine deck. 

I have yet to install the amp again to take full advantage of power and run active. just want to confirm my suspicion that i'm running a too low of a ohm load directly to the deck...


----------



## Hondacru27

Bayboy said:


> Sorry for the delayed response. Apparently that's how some retailers handle it which is perfectly legit as long as they are authorized. I contacted JBL and got a RA#. I've sent it off some time ago, but they say it takes at least 4 days before they look at it or whatever. I've heard before that JBL is a little slow. That's cool as long as I get a return. From what I understand they don't repair that particular set. They send out a new one and perhaps the repaird set is sold later as refurbished. Honestly it would seem to me that a repair would be better as they are fixing a common manufacture issue that would occur on a new set thus making the refurb more reliable. Just my 2 cents.
> 
> As of now I'm not sure I will put them back in. Nice set, but the tinsel lead issue seems like a common problem. That set isn't some $75 comp set either so that's a bit disappointing. Probably going back to raw after this deal.


My Tinsel leads been holding up just fine so far with my mods to it. I'm about ready to go sealed completely in the door and see how they do as for bass response compared to IB in the doors. My Jag has it setup to mount the speaker into the door cards. if I can do some fiberglassing to seal it off completely, I think my response and SNAP will increase but hopefully enough to go YEAAAAAAAh  Otherwise i may want to look for a little more capable mid bass and maybe still par it with the JBL tweet.


----------



## Bayboy

Unless the factory gear can't handle a 3-4 ohm load I'm not sure why it would cut out. The mid's Re is 2.952 which shouldn't matter on a 4 ohm stable amp.


As far as the mid's tinsel lead issues, the break seems to be right near the spring terminal solder joint that's been covered with liquid electrical tape or what ever that goop is. Using a ball point pen to slightly move the lead while powering it by my home audio receiver is how I came to that conclusion. At first I was worried about it being near the coil, but that wasn't the case. I thought about reheating the joint on the terminal, but I wanted to take my chances on a warranty first just in case that turned out not to be the issue. Can't remember when I sent it off, but I think it's been about 3 weeks now :worried:. Between the 3sixty.3 and a new set of Seas cd18re-mds that I want to put down in the doors, the JBL probably will wind up in the closet. Going back to a 4-way system soon.


----------



## atbear

Bayboy said:


> As far as the mid's tinsel lead issues, the break seems to be right near the spring terminal solder joint that's been covered with liquid electrical tape or what ever that goop is. Using a ball point pen to slightly move the lead while powering it by my home audio receiver is how I came to that conclusion. At first I was worried about it being near the coil, but that wasn't the case. I thought about reheating the joint on the terminal, but I wanted to take my chances on a warranty first just in case that turned out not to be the issue. Can't remember when I sent it off, but I think it's been about 3 weeks now :worried:. Between the 3sixty.3 and a new set of Seas cd18re-mds that I want to put down in the doors, the JBL probably will wind up in the closet. Going back to a 4-way system soon.


Bayboy, I'm not sure mine blew as a result of the tinsel leads breaking. They may be broken and I just can't tell, but they appear pretty solid to me. The speaker has a distinct electrical burn smell, so not sure if that disqualifies the tinsel leads as being the culprit or not.

You sent yours off to JBL and it's been 3 weeks now? That seems like a long time just to get a replacement (which is what SavingLots.com said they would do).


----------



## Bayboy

About going on 3 weeks from the time I.sent it off. The email stated that it would be at 4 days before a tech looks at it so who knows. Not the first time I've heard they were slow


----------



## SkipNJ

What DIY drivers do these compare to? Just out of curiosity. What DIYs would stack up or best the MS-62C set for $200? I'm talking a pair midbasses and a pair of tweeters


----------



## rton20s

I've been reading some good things about both of these...

The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

Of course, that is less than $110 and I don't know if anyone has been able to compare these directly to an MS-62C set.


----------



## Bayboy

Hmmm... a comparison for me would be hard since each driver has it's own attributes that's worth sacrificing in other areas. IE there is no perfect or best that I have experienced. Even the MS62C has it's limitations.


----------



## casey

anyone tried the tweeters with a pioneer premier 720prs mid? would it be a good fit?


----------



## Hispls

I put a set of these in my friend's Tundra a few weeks ago. I was also impressed with the build quality, mounting options and sound.... for the price we paid from Trumpet they're very solid


----------



## Hondacru27

Bayboy said:


> Unless the factory gear can't handle a 3-4 ohm load I'm not sure why it would cut out. The mid's Re is 2.952 which shouldn't matter on a 4 ohm stable amp.
> 
> 
> As far as the mid's tinsel lead issues, the break seems to be right near the spring terminal solder joint that's been covered with liquid electrical tape or what ever that goop is. Using a ball point pen to slightly move the lead while powering it by my home audio receiver is how I came to that conclusion. At first I was worried about it being near the coil, but that wasn't the case. I thought about reheating the joint on the terminal, but I wanted to take my chances on a warranty first just in case that turned out not to be the issue. Can't remember when I sent it off, but I think it's been about 3 weeks now :worried:. Between the 3sixty.3 and a new set of Seas cd18re-mds that I want to put down in the doors, the JBL probably will wind up in the closet. Going back to a 4-way system soon.


I had the exact issue as you are currently experiencing with your leads, I soldered the wire from the coil to the tinsel mount plate, hot glued the screw that holds the contact plate to the frame of the mid as that was coming somewhat loose. Took a 6 inch piece of speaker wire and soldered directly to the screw and plate as a whole. NO issues since then. JBL could have done alittle better job as for the design of the plastic mount and adhesion method.

Waiting on a amp to arrive and i will get this set back in and dialed good. meanwhile, no MUSIC. 

I would love to hear feed back on the seas.


----------



## Bayboy

Hondacru27 said:


> I would love to hear feed back on the seas.


They're older & no longer available, but I ran across a new pair on ebay a while back so of course I want to give them a go. The JBL set is nice, but I have specific needs in my Blazer that they did ok on, but I wanted just a bit more. Still a great set, just ready to put the 3sixty.3 to work.


----------



## Hunter88

JBL MS62C 61/2 component system - SavingLots.com


----------



## Bayboy

Their prices are good, but with the issues some are having I'd settle with a company that will give direct replacements. JBL service is very slow. I'm still waiting for mines.


----------



## Hunter88

What are the issues of the ms62? Bad leads?


----------



## JoeHemi57

Hunter88 said:


> JBL MS62C 61/2 component system - SavingLots.com


Thanks for the link!!



Hunter88 said:


> What are the issues of the ms62? Bad leads?


Seems to be an issue with quite a few but i'm not going to be running a lot of power, i'm not sure whether to get the JBL Power P660 for $135 or spend the extra for the MS62c.


----------



## Hunter88

Im in the same boat as you. But for 40 more dollars I think its a no brainer. I plan to hook them up to a ppi 900.4 and bridge the other two channels to power the sa-8(untill i can afford the amp I really want).


----------



## Bayboy

JoeHemi57 said:


> Thanks for the link!!
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to be an issue with quite a few but i'm not going to be running a lot of power, i'm not sure whether to get the JBL Power P660 for $135 or spend the extra for the MS62c.




I'm not sure if power was the issue. I didn't play mines hard. They were crossed fairly high for most. I would toggle between 80 & 100hz with a -24db slope. Now I do expect a little bit of excursion so let's not go down that route, but abuse I dare to say is what they seen. I think there must have been a minor flaw in the lead or soldering process.


----------



## thomasluke

JoeHemi57 said:


> Thanks for the link!!
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to be an issue with quite a few but i'm not going to be running a lot of power, i'm not sure whether to get the JBL Power P660 for $135 or spend the extra for the MS62c.


Ive owned both and just recently went with the p660' s over the Ms set. The tweeter while adorded by some was just too much for me. 
The 660 seems to be a more robust set as wel.


----------



## JoeHemi57

Hunter88 said:


> Im in the same boat as you. But for 40 more dollars I think its a no brainer. I plan to hook them up to a ppi 900.4 and bridge the other two channels to power the sa-8(untill i can afford the amp I really want).


Nothing wrong with the ppi amp, running the jbl gto3ez for mine i got for a great price. 



thomasluke said:


> Ive owned both and just recently went with the p660' s over the Ms set. The tweeter while adorded by some was just too much for me.
> The 660 seems to be a more robust set as wel.


Good to know, i don't like bright tweeters at all so i'll stick with the powers. Thanks for your input.


----------



## Bayboy

Just now receiving a confirmation email that my replacement set is being shipped. Wow!!! Has been a long wait! Not sure why, but at least it's on the way.


----------



## Hunter88

torn between the ms or 660. I want good mids and a nice sounding tweeter. Right now i have tweeters in the doors above the mid and the sound its staged in front of me. Tweeters are soft dome and sound drowned. So maybe the ms tweeters would be best?


----------



## Kevin C

So what is the sweet spot for xover when active on these componants?
was thinking 30w for tweets in pillar and 50w for midbass in doors of my sierra.

But xover?...need a schematic of response curves but havnt found one yet.

I have read that the passive xover for tweeter is 2nd order 12db at around 3k?
Should the midbass hp xover extend a little over the tweeter lp ?
I am running my set of ms-62c @63 hz lp @24db slope passively right now , sound good but I want to play with active because of the door/pillar separation.

anyone have some active experience with these componants?
anyone know the ohms of tweet? 6?
Thanks


----------



## Pillow

I finally installed the MS-62 components in the CTS-V this weekend! Finally!!! 

Basically I just did a factory replacement for the Bose speakers. 6.5" in the doors fit perfectly and lined right up with the stock mounting holes. The tweeters in the A pillars were a little more work, but are now semi-custom installed (not my best work, but works). Along the way Alpha Damp deadening products were used to hush the bad vibes. I will give Cadillac credit there was already a lot of deadener present from the factory! The rear door speakers were completely removed and holes smoothed over with deadener. Rear fill sucks! At this point the Bose amp/processor/HU are still in place and powering the speakers. 

* The center channel Bose speaker is 2" and I have a replacement Pearless from Madisound on order. If this does not work out, I will just remove the center channel. 

Installed impressions.... WOW!!! WOW!!! What a vast improvement in sound quality and volume. The tweeters are incredible, I know I have said that before, but I really mean it. The best tweeters I have ever heard. Crisp clean and hella sharp in detail. I used the Focal demo disks as musical material, good stuff that I am familiar with. The package is great for the price. Again, I feel that the mids are lacking midbass punch but they do sound good. More to come on mid impressions once dialed in. Off the top I took 4 "clicks" out of the trebble/high/EQ settings, now I am at -1 "click" and seems to start blending well. 

In the future the MS-62 components will be run off a PPI P900.4 active. But that will take some time as I need to setup the rear subwoofer which I need to have reconed for IB. 

More to come!.. I would still like to see these tweets matched with Silver Flutes and see the curve. Also I want to have TintBox check out the system and get his impressions. 

Again for the price, this component set rapes the competition. If you want a legit warranted JBL seller contact Trumpet.


----------



## Hunter88

Another positive rave review. I like hearing that the titanium tweeter isnt harsh. But I love midbass and mid range to be present. Hopefully hooking them to an amp will bring the mids out. If not, Ill be getting the 660c.


----------



## schmiddr2

For seriously shallow installs they are about as good as I have heard at only 2 1/4" deep (would like to hear the ones Bing installs regularly, Illusion C6 at 2.1"). I looked at all kinds of options and had a 9887 so raw drivers were definitely getting looked over. If I did not have such a shallow door design I might not have bought these. I might have ended up with the 660c or who knows what, but I'm glad I did, especially when they were $180 from SE. At one point they even had them at $200 and BOGO 1/2 off; $300 for 2 sets.

They need to sell the tweeter separate. Would be cool to be able to grab a pair for $100 and try some larger woofers for increased midbass performance (for people with more room in the door). Could easily do 2KHz at 24db with low power or 2.2KHz for a little added margin of error.


----------



## bobma

I ordered 2 JBL MS-62c speakers and will install them in my Volvo S60 Front doors. Should I try and install my amp under the seat or in the trunk? The battery is in the trunk. 

I have an ARC 4 channel amp with an Alpine IVE-W535HD head unit, it has a 9 Band EQ.

how is the supplied crossover? Is active the way to go?


----------



## Bayboy

The greatest asset of the MS62C is their midrange to high frequency detail including off axis. If you are looking for midbass thump and are not crossing your sub around 100hz then you may want to choose another set.

What I am really curious is how well do they mate up with the subs intended for them. That could be very interesting!


----------



## bobma

Bayboy said:


> The greatest asset of the MS62C is their midrange to high frequency detail including off axis. If you are looking for midbass thump and are not crossing your sub around 100hz then you may want to choose another set.
> 
> What I am really curious is how well do they mate up with the subs intended for them. That could be very interesting!


simply find a sub that does well up to 100hz. 

instead of trying to be fancy and saying: mate up and intended for them.


----------



## Bayboy

bobma said:


> simply find a sub that does well up to 100hz.
> 
> instead of trying to be fancy and saying: mate up and intended for them.


You offended by my choice of words or something? The simple fact is not everyone likes to run their subs up high so your point is what? Wrong side of the bed? GEEZ

And by the way.... the subs intended for them are the MS series so blow your own horn fella!


----------



## JoeHemi57

Bayboy said:


> You offended by my choice of words or something? The simple fact is not everyone likes to run their subs up high so your point is what? Wrong side of the bed? GEEZ
> 
> And by the way.... the subs intended for them are the MS series so blow your own horn fella!


I have a MS12 and GTO3ez, still deciding on P660c or MS and having a terrible time making the decision. Probably gonna snag the MS on payday next Friday.


----------



## Pillow

Bayboy, I wondered the same about the MS line of subs, but honestly the specs are not that impressive. 6mm X-max, really! IDK what JBL is thinking on the sub line up... Maybe a GTI would be a better match. 

I agree that a little higher than normal cutoff would be perfect in this situation. 90-100 was what I was planning on as well. 

The sub I will be using is a 10" TC Sounds 3HP Neo built for IB use by PSI. Should get extremely rowdy while maintaining SQ. Look at the old Axis (TC) specs, crazy smooth. 

Anyway more to come... But do not hold your breath, a lot of parts still need to be ordered.


----------



## JoeHemi57

Pillow said:


> Bayboy, I wondered the same about the MS line of subs, but honestly the specs are not that impressive. 6mm X-max, really! IDK what JBL is thinking on the sub line up... Maybe a GTI would be a better match.
> 
> I agree that a little higher than normal cutoff would be perfect in this situation. 90-100 was what I was planning on as well.
> 
> The sub I will be using is a 10" TC Sounds 3HP Neo built for IB use by PSI. Should get extremely rowdy while maintaining SQ. Look at the old Axis (TC) specs, crazy smooth.
> 
> Anyway more to come... But do not hold your breath, a lot of parts still need to be ordered.


JBL MS12SD2 12 Inch Subwoofer - Subwoofers - Talk Audio Online Car Audio Magazine & Forum - Talk Audio Online Car Audio Magazine & Forum - Magazine

Will post my MS review soon but sounds like it does plenty here.


----------



## Pillow

I have tried many "high end" low excursion subwoofers and never thought any of them delivered the goods on low low notes. The lowest Xmax sub I really liked was the ED Ov line, those for the money were hard to beat IMO... Then I found a Brahma and that ended the search for perfection in a sub.


----------



## JoeHemi57

Pillow said:


> I have tried many "high end" low excursion subwoofers and never thought any of them delivered the goods on low low notes. The lowest Xmax sub I really liked was the ED Ov line, those for the money were hard to beat IMO... Then I found a Brahma and that ended the search for perfection in a sub.


Not to go too far off topic but I was worried at first also, I wanted one of the JBL Power subs(1600 watts on dustcap) but came up empty handed. I got a great deal on the MS and I have a guy that built his system on my recommendation with 2 MS10's and he is very happy. We will find out soon enough if its up to par.


----------



## Bayboy

I believe most are looking at it wrong. We do know that the MS62C is not a midbass heavy set, but what it does well is fundamentals & detail. It's sort of hard to get a driver in this price range that plays low & still have definition into the upper range of the woofer at higher volumes. Using a high excursion subwoofer has it's drawbacks as well. To me, they are a bit more sloppy in their transition to midbass. Not to mention they are a pain to work with in a ported enclosure.

When you look at that it sort of makes sense. I've tried the set with a Dayton HO 10" & Peerless 10" with 12mm xmax and I can honestly say that they didn't match well. No matter what, it was hard to keep the sound from dragging to the rear. Perhaps the MS subs play cleaner into the upper end and exhibits a lower response that pairs better with the comp set's to help it keep sound planted up front. Not to mention, porting a sub with less xmax is a breeze compared to having to use labyrinth ports on high excursion subs requiring a small airspace.


----------



## rexroadj

bayboy is exactly right with his perception of the MS line as whole. You cant make these things something they are not. Actually the MS line works together incredibly well. And its for those same reasons mentioned. There are lots of lines this way. The PPI PC line/art........similar! The great thing about them, and why they are so popular is that you can run an entire system with incredible results with limited power and money. In order to do that, this is the combo that is best suited for that. That is where the market is (in the majority...were less then 1%). 
Some people cant get past tuning mids/subs at or above 80/100 because of the assumption of keeping as much freq up front or in the front stage. I used to be the same way....till I heard a few cars setup in this fashion. WOW. Holy dynamics! 

Understand what you all are purchasing (what its designed for) and see that it fits your overall plan and you will be happy. Putting apples and oranges in your car and expecting lemonade.......= not happy.


----------



## bobma

Bayboy said:


> You offended by my choice of words or something? The simple fact is not everyone likes to run their subs up high so your point is what? Wrong side of the bed? GEEZ
> 
> And by the way.... the subs intended for them are the MS series so blow your own horn fella!


I woke up to an order confirmation that showed no tracking number and was upset that they don't do well below 100hz. Just found out now they have been shipped!

your choice of words are accurate and I was just venting.
sorry about that!


so what exact Sub would you recommend?


----------



## adrianp89

My set comes in today, I am gunning for 70hz at 24-36 slope with gobs of power. We will see how mid-bass is.


----------



## Bayboy

bobma said:


> I woke up to an order confirmation that showed no tracking number and was upset that they don't do well below 100hz. Just found out now they have been shipped!
> 
> your choice of words are accurate and I was just venting.
> sorry about that!
> 
> 
> so what exact Sub would you recommend?


No problem Bro... I'm going to be honest about something. I think most depend on the mid woofer to do too much and that includes getting below 80hz. Keep in mind that you can run them down lower, but you will severely limit power handling through mechanical limits. I don't believe you will have a problem with them as long as you don't expect that and sacrifice too much to try to attain it. 

Now when I mentioned fundamentals earlier I truly meant just that. It's not that they don't have any bass, just not good to run them down to resonance which is like 66hz IIRC. However, what they do very well is add definition to bass notes. IE they have damn good definition starting at 100 and up through 500hz, and do it very cleanly! Out of the amount of mids I've played with, the MS62C mids needed the least amount of EQ & X-over fiddling to get right. They also had the best off-axis response and I have severe problems in the vehicle they were placed in. 

Personally, I think when the need to drop a front mid fairly low you're better off using a 4-way (3-way front +sub). Especially if the sub being used is hard to dial in around 80hz & up. Much harder, but that's the cost for such performance. 

The MS seems to only need a sub that can reach quite high 100-120h, but not get overly brawn about it... I'm willing to bet the MS subs probably will do a better job of such. My replacement set is on it's way back and I'm very tempted to try an MS sub just to see what it will do. There's a few reviews on the MS subs that may be worth reading.


----------



## casey

think im going to try the tweeters with the pioneer 720prs mid.
looks like ill be trying 2500hz 12db xover hp/lp.


----------



## Bayboy

Specs for the tweets are contained within this thread somewhere, I'd probably run them a tad bit higher and use a steep filter.


----------



## casey

i only have an option for -12 or -6 on the cz702. next step up is 3.15k.

*edit* just saw that 3.15k -12 is what i crossed the aura mr-1 tweeters at with the 720prs as well. I wish i could find where i put them so I could compare the two sets


----------



## Bayboy

IIRC the tweet's FS is around 3000hz.


----------



## JoeHemi57

Finally ordered my MS62's from saving lots, I've got under $280 in my components, sub, and amp. Should be a nice setup: GTO3ez, MS62c, and MS12 D4 sealed in 1.2ft box.


----------



## ttuato

Signed up to DIYMA so I could send a PM to Trumpet after reading this thread. Woo-hoo can't wait!!!


----------



## Weklim

Hi, new here and to car audio. Wondering if this would be a good fit for my setup.

2000 Chrysler 300m, planning on putting it in factory locations.

I recently replaced the stock setup with Infinity 6030cs powered by Alpine MRP F-300. I already loathe these speakers and got an 80 PRS to try and help improve the sound. I'd like to do some deadening for the first time and put these in (and then a sub later).

Good idea?


----------



## Bayboy

You may want to make a new thread if you need help with full details on your build, but yes the JBL set is better than the Infinity Reference.


----------



## Kevin C

I read the mids of this jbl set are not avail sep?
Weird ...The tweets are ...and nicely priced ...check this email I received .
I am in Canada so...
Way to go JBL service , they were quick and helpful.
Never needed the tweet tho, it was a amp connection at the speaker wire.
I am still enjoying this set and am completely satisfied with this 6.2 set.


Good Morning



P/N MS-62CTWEETER

Desc : 20MM TITANIUM DOME TWEETER

Cost $ 18.88/ea

Kindly note B/O 4-6 weeks from time of order




Kindly note there is a $9.95 shipping fee + applicable taxes.



If you wish to place an order, we would kindly require your daytime mailing address w/phone number (please no P.O. boxes) via e-mail or fax and credit card information via e-mail, fax or phone. We accept Visa, MasterCard and American Express.



Thank You & Best Regards,



Veuillez noter que des frais de transport au montant de $9.95 s’appliqueront plus les taxes locales.

Si vous désirez commander, votre adresse postale de jour (svp pas casier postale), votre numéro de téléphone de jour ainsi que les informations d’une carte de crédit valide sont requises par courriel ou par fax. Visa, Master Card et American Express sont les cartes de crédit acceptées. 



Merci




Karen Fleming
Consumer Parts Sales Coordinator
(Canada,)
1-877-526-5463 ext. 2263
Fax: 1-800-563-2591
mail to: [email protected]

Pricing is subject to change without notice/Prix sont sujets aux changements sans préavis

Shipping fee of $9.95/Frais de transport de $9.95

All parts are non-returnable & are not subject to cancellation/Les pièces ne peuvent être retournées ou annulées

Visit our website JAM Group of Companies



Description: Jam Service Logo



P Avant d'imprimer ce courriel, assurez-vous qu'il est plus important que l'arbre qui en fournira le support papier.

Before printing this e-mail make sure it's more important than the tree that supplies the paper.







From: Bruno Gomes 
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:32 PM
To: Karen Fleming
Subject: JBL MS-62C - replacement tweeter



Hi Karen,



Can you please check on a replacement tweeter for the MS-62C?



Regards,



Bruno Gomes

Business Development Manager

Erikson Mobile 

(514) 457-2555


----------



## Bayboy

Wow! Mighty cheap ($38) for a set of tweeters belonging to a $300 set of components.


----------



## rexroadj

Bayboy said:


> Wow! Mighty cheap ($38) for a set of tweeters belonging to a $300 set of components.


Not surprising.......even on ones that dont look special, the bulk of the "cost" of component sets are the xovers. Of course not always.....but look at the JBL 660gti set? That midbass replacement cost was like $150 a driver or around there? Retail was what? $2200ish? 

Its pretty common. And on a lot of sets, the tweets are also on the cheaper side too. Again, not all are this way but its WAY more common then not. (Not to start this debate with the ignorant few...... If you dont believe it...go build yourself a component set, get a quote for production and see what cost the most...then come back and talk)


----------



## rton20s

Now the question is... Where an you source the tweeters in the U.S?


----------



## rexroadj

rton20s said:


> Now the question is... Where an you source the tweeters in the U.S?


Call JBL about replacement parts.


----------



## rton20s

I thought someone posted previously that JBL USA said they would not be selling them separately? I noticed Kevin C's post above was dealing with JBL Canada. Maybe it will be as simple as contacting JBL and waiting 4-6 weeks without having to prove you purchased a full MS-62C set.


----------



## rexroadj

I would call and say one or both of the tweeters is dead. (not defective) Something happened with your electronics and they fried and you wish to order a new set. NO, they do not offer to just sell raw parts. Not that I am a fan of being dishonest, but if you want just the tweets, I would try that. Otherwise check with the Canadian distributor above and see if he will sell them to you too?


----------



## schmiddr2

If possible, would anyone be interested in setting up a group buy, not to get them cheaper, but to make it easier for a Canadian member to get them and re-ship them out in one trip. Prob be around $50-60 including the extra shipping.

JBL US also told me no separate sales.


----------



## thomasluke

schmiddr2 said:


> If possible, would anyone be interested in setting up a group buy, not to get them cheaper, but to make it easier for a Canadian member to get them and re-ship them out in one trip. Prob be around $50-60 including the extra shipping.
> 
> JBL US also told me no separate sales.


I'm in if they would come with the mounting hardware. 
But under the conditions of the order I don't think they would.


----------



## schmiddr2

That's true, but I bet they sell the mounting cups too, probably a few bucks.


----------



## lucky

I discovered an interesting thing about the M62c's mids. I was curious about what the tweeters would sound like with a lower crossover point, around 2500hz, so I swapped in another pair of passive crossovers with that crossover point, just out of curiosity. I know passives are designed with their matched drivers in mind, and the MS62c's sounded horrible with the crossover, but I learned something really interesting.

The mids are quite capable of much more midbass with not much power compared to what they are capable of connected to the matched passive x-overs. I'd say they are pretty versatile as they sounded good when I swapped in yet another pair of passive crossovers.

Another thing is, with the MS62c tweeters connected to non-matched crossovers, they were ear splittingly loud and sounded horrible no matter the volume. I'm thinking the MS62c crossovers do alot of eating up power in order to tame the tweeters, which has a negative effect on the volume out of the mids. I had to turn my gains way down to tame the tweeters when I connected the 2500hz x-over, but the mids were still putting out some satisfying midbass.

I don't know exactly what this all means except that at least for me, assuming there's nothing wrong with my components, alot of the mids' capability is being wasted and the tweeter is not a very versatile unit. All hooked up as a set, they sound pretty good, but as mentioned lack in the midbass department, and required me to turn my amplifier gain way up.


----------



## Bayboy

lucky said:


> I discovered an interesting thing about the M62c's mids. I was curious about what the tweeters would sound like with a lower crossover point, around 2500hz, so I swapped in another pair of passive crossovers with that crossover point, just out of curiosity. I know passives are designed with their matched drivers in mind, and the MS62c's sounded horrible with the crossover, but I learned something really interesting.
> 
> The mids are quite capable of much more midbass with not much power compared to what they are capable of connected to the matched passive x-overs. I'd say they are pretty versatile as they sounded good when I swapped in yet another pair of passive crossovers.
> 
> Another thing is, with the MS62c tweeters connected to non-matched crossovers, they were ear splittingly loud and sounded horrible no matter the volume. I'm thinking the MS62c crossovers do alot of eating up power in order to tame the tweeters, which has a negative effect on the volume out of the mids. I had to turn my gains way down to tame the tweeters when I connected the 2500hz x-over, but the mids were still putting out some satisfying midbass.
> 
> I don't know exactly what this all means except that at least for me, assuming there's nothing wrong with my components, alot of the mids' capability is being wasted and the tweeter is not a very versatile unit. All hooked up as a set, they sound pretty good, but as mentioned lack in the midbass department, and required me to turn my amplifier gain way up.




I must object and it will have nothing to do with the other passive xover being a mismatch more than likely due to variances in impedance & resistor matching. Keep in mind that most are running them active which negates the above stated.

One fact remaining that applies to ALL drivers is the narrower the passband the more power can be applied. I don't think that aspect was ever a debate with the MS62C mids. Can they get lower than what most recommend (80-100hz)? Sure, but not without greatly reducing maximum power that can be applied. As far as the tweets, they are a good design, but I'm not sure they are too different from the other inverted dimple dome metal tweets on the market. I'm even thinking they may be sourced from the same manufacturer as some like in the PPI PC3.65C. 

I'm not crapping on the JBL, but I say they are not for gobs of midbass or useful in converting to a 3-way. They are a well matched set for clean midrange & highs with excellent off-axis performance. Obviously something that is hard to find these days in the $300 and under budget. 

As a temporary replacement while I was waiting for my set to be sent back under warranty, I put back in the WCC rebadged Diamond comp mids that I had before. Then I return the Polk DXI 4x6" plate that were still in the dash to use. Even with the 80PRS set to the lowest xover point available (1.2khz) and utilizing a -6db slope for the Polks, I must say the WCC Diamond mids have more power handling & output in the lower register that the JBL set couldn't handle without bottoming out. The Diamond mids clearly had more midbass punch and could be taken down to 60hz though I see no use for it. They also had the punch to match up with my sub better to where I could drop the sub's xover down to 60-80hz with a steep slope. I couldn't really do that with the JBL.


Just showing as a comparison.... the MS62C is a great set when used as intended. If you need something more beyond it's scope then you just have to be able to fall off of the bandwagon and move past them.


----------



## lucky

Cool. In my experience, using the mids without the supplied x-over hi-passed at 63hz/24db the last few days, they are performing quite well and no bottoming out, and sound like a veil has been lifted from them. YMMV. I'm quite certain there are other mids that would put these to shame no matter the configuration, but I'm happy as is.


----------



## fuzzcar

I ordered a set of MS-62c's back around march. Got them installed sometime around june. Currently only running them unamped and passive, but they still sound really really good in may fully deadened doors. I can actually feel kickbass.

Well about a week ago I noticed the drivers side woofer was not putting out sound  I painstakingly dissambled my doors (not easy with all my deadener) and found that the solder connection where the wire on the speaker (tinsel lead?) attaches to the terminal block was not getting contact even though it appeared to be soldered well. Resoldered the connection and it was back up and booming. Did not even finish my first drive with it working again when I noticed the passenger side woofer is no longer working 

Great sounding speakers... piss poor workmanship.


----------



## Bayboy

For some reason that is becoming a common problem. Seemingly easy fix but a choice between long waits on a warranty replacement which is likely to do it again, or possibly permanently fix it yourself while voiding the warranty.


----------



## mosconiac

I'd participate in a Canadian GP...any canucks willing to do the legwork for us down south?


----------



## kkreit01

Bummer on the tinsel lead issue, but I still grabbed a set of these last night. Savinglots were down to 4 sets, so I wanted to grab one before they were gone. Hookontronics has the 5.25" set for $140ish. That's also a very decent price compared to others.


----------



## NotInMySpeedos

schmiddr2 said:


> If possible, would anyone be interested in setting up a group buy, not to get them cheaper, but to make it easier for a Canadian member to get them and re-ship them out in one trip. Prob be around $50-60 including the extra shipping.
> 
> JBL US also told me no separate sales.


Hi, This is my first post. Hope you find it useful.
These Soundstream tweeters look mighty similar to the JBL's

TWT.6 - Tweeters - Speakers & Tweeters - Car Audio


----------



## SeniorXJ

fuzzcar said:


> I ordered a set of MS-62c's back around march. Got them installed sometime around june. Currently only running them unamped and passive, but they still sound really really good in may fully deadened doors. I can actually feel kickbass.
> 
> Well about a week ago I noticed the drivers side woofer was not putting out sound  I painstakingly dissambled my doors (not easy with all my deadener) and found that the solder connection where the wire on the speaker (tinsel lead?) attaches to the terminal block was not getting contact even though it appeared to be soldered well. Resoldered the connection and it was back up and booming. Did not even finish my first drive with it working again when I noticed the passenger side woofer is no longer working
> 
> Great sounding speakers... piss poor workmanship.



Wow, I had the same exact problem with my MS62c's, driver side woofer & all. Took em out & had to re-solder the back if the terminals & tin the tinsel leads & walla, there working again!!


----------



## schmiddr2

They do look similar. But of course that doesn't mean they are.


----------



## Bayboy

Noticed that a while back. I wouldn't be surprised if they use the same build house and/or choose from a catalog of customizable products. Products are made in China you know, but easily dispels the China myth doesn't it?  

Either way, the real stars of the show are the mids although I once thought it was the tweets. They're good, but the mids are very good!


----------



## rton20s

Kind of funny that the TWT.6 was mentioned as I just threw a quick photoshop together for myself last night to compare. I was going to start a separate thread, but I suppose it is just as appropriate in here. 

Below you'll see the JBL tweeter on the left, the Soundstream tweeter in the center and the PPI (aluminum) tweeter on the right. I think anyone would have a hard time denying the similarities between these tweeters. Other than lighting, the Soundtsream tweeters *LOOK* identical to the JBL tweeters. But, as has been mentioned, looks don't necessarily mean anything. Though, it could mean everything. 

I have reached out to Soundstream for comment, but I doubt I will hear anything back. And I certainly wouldn't expect any sort of response from JBL, so I haven't bothered. I also spoke with someone who could be "in the know" and the gist of his response was, "Maybe a junk tweeter in the same chassis? Maybe identical to JBL? Not sure... I am guessing that you are right in thinking it might be the JBL. Either it is, or an identical copy."


----------



## NotInMySpeedos

schmiddr2 said:


> They do look similar. But of course that doesn't mean they are.


That is true. But the textured finish of the housing, diamond edge diaphragm, phase plug, even the grill material are all very similar.


----------



## Bayboy

I'd stop where you're at before you drive yourself crazy wondering. There's so many manufacturers, suppliers, etc in China that you could spend countless hours just finding anything that could even resemble them. That's if they're shelf items. Custom from existing parts and even worse. A true test would be to get both brands in hand and run them through a woofer tester product to see the similarities in specs and not sure if that even matters. Want to put together your own set? Stick with raw.....


----------



## rton20s

I was just posting the information because a lot of people have expressed interest in picking up the JBL tweeters without the full component set. If, in fact, the Soundstream is the same tweeter, then this would be a viable option for those people. However, unless one of the manufacturers confirms, we might never know. Or, as you mentioned, unless someone is able to do an A/B comparison of the two tweeters.


----------



## subwoofery

rton20s said:


> Kind of funny that the TWT.6 was mentioned as I just threw a quick photoshop together for myself last night to compare. I was going to start a separate thread, but I suppose it is just as appropriate in here.
> 
> Below you'll see the JBL tweeter on the left, the Soundstream tweeter in the center and the PPI (aluminum) tweeter on the right. I think anyone would have a hard time denying the similarities between these tweeters. Other than lighting, the Soundtsream tweeters *LOOK* identical to the JBL tweeters. But, as has been mentioned, looks don't necessarily mean anything. Though, it could mean everything.
> 
> I have reached out to Soundstream for comment, but I doubt I will hear anything back. And I certainly wouldn't expect any sort of response from JBL, so I haven't bothered. I also spoke with someone who could be "in the know" and the gist of his response was, "Maybe a junk tweeter in the same chassis? Maybe identical to JBL? Not sure... I am guessing that you are right in thinking it might be the JBL. Either it is, or an identical copy."


What the...? 










The TN-47 was out in what 2003 I think, and was the tweeter from the Polyglass line. 

Kelvin


----------



## Bayboy

subwoofery said:


> What the...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The TN-47 was out in what 2003 I think, and was the tweeter from the Polyglass line.
> 
> Kelvin



Unless I missed something, it was the TWT.6 he was referring to wasn't it?


----------



## rton20s

Maybe he is inferring that these are the same as the Polyglass tweeters? I don't know. They have a similar design, but not quite as "identical" as the SS/JBL. I know there have been Focal/SS/PPI similarities in the past. At least that is what I am lead to believe.


----------



## subwoofery

rton20s said:


> Maybe he is inferring that these are the same as the Polyglass tweeters? I don't know. They have a similar design, but not quite as "identical" as the SS/JBL. I know there have been Focal/SS/PPI similarities in the past. At least that is what I am lead to believe.


Yup, I see a lot of similarities between the SS/JBL and the Focal tweeter

Kelvin


----------



## rexroadj

Based from focal? Yes! 

The SS tweet did have a silk or some soft material surround so thats difference #1. Its actually a VERY VERY good sounding tweet. 
The PPI? Well you can take another look at the focal again...I think we can bark up that tree a little more. Does the JBL tweet fit in the same family? Of course it does. Now, do you think all three are exactly the same because they share the same cosmetics and cone material? NO! 

It cost a ton of money to retool lines, so if you find something you really really like but need it a certain way or since no one really wants to copy, changes are made. But because of costs (since everyone is going to ***** about that too...NO WINNING WITH PEOPLE) $ is saved with similar styles etc. Its VERY common....but it doesnt make anything "the same". And I dont just mean changes in color are the only difference. There are lot of things that could have been done that are not cosmetic that change something quite a bit. 

All the tweeters mentioned are actually pretty damn good especially for the money too! IMO. 


Kelvin...yes, its been a LONG time since the tn47 but you could still have it made  EASILY! LOL.


----------



## subwoofery

rexroadj said:


> Based from focal? Yes!
> 
> Kelvin...yes, its been a LONG time since the tn47 but *you could still have it made  EASILY!* LOL.


WHAT?????  



Kelvin


----------



## rton20s

Justin, I am with you 100%. There is virtually no information out there on the PPI T.5, very little out there on the Soundstream TWT.6 and quite a bit now on the JBL MS tweeter. The information that can be found seems to be pretty positive on all fronts. 

That being said, the variations on these tweeters could mean everything, or nothing. I would guess that even slight variations in construction or material selection could yield significant differences in audible performance. I probably should have been much more clear about this in my initial post on this matter. At only $50/set *with HPF/crossover*, I don't see the Soundstream as a very big risk, though. 

I would be anxious to see if anyone has been able to A/B demo the JBLs and the Soundstreams. If their sound signature and performance are similar enough, the SS tweeter could be a viable option for those who really only want the JBL tweeter. Or, they could turn out to be significantly poor performers not worth the investment. Just something else to ponder.


----------



## rexroadj

Well having easy access to the man/friend that developed the PPI and SS sets I know a little about them. I have heard ALL sets mentioned though. There are absolutely differences between them that are easily audible. 
Does that put any one ahead of the other? Absolutely not. All situation and preference depending for sure! Is it fair to say they all came from the same "platform"? I personally think that is very fair to say. 


And Kelvin, YES


----------



## rton20s

I'm not sure who you're man/friend is, but I reached out to one as well. I do know that the person who developed the PPI Power Class and SS Reference component sets and tweeters had zero involvement with the development of the PPI Phantom and SS Stealth component sets. The newer sets use a different tweeter and as I understand it, you would be astonished about how similar the older set's tweeters were to a certain European company. I should probably leave it at that, as I don't want to be seen as speaking out of turn.


----------



## rexroadj

rton20s said:


> I'm not sure who you're man/friend is, but I reached out to one as well. I do know that the person who developed the PPI Power Class and SS Reference component sets and tweeters had zero involvement with the development of the PPI Phantom and SS Stealth component sets. The newer sets use a different tweeter and as I understand it, you would be astonished about how similar the older set's tweeters were to a certain European company. I should probably leave it at that, as I don't want to be seen as speaking out of turn.


Same LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Just trying to keep people safe....I know you know exactly what I mean


----------



## monterverde

Guys, Any updates for running passive? And what configuration sounds best?


----------



## Bayboy

Just run them. The crossover has enough tweeter adjustments to make them worth using. Time alignment will only affect the mids so put the tweets where they sound best.


----------



## SkipNJ

I got these installed Wednesday, set my gains and ran the auto eq and TA on my headunit yesterday. Inital thoughts: sounds like a good 2 way set. Midbass is what you would expect for a system with no subwoofer. I have them crossed at 63hz and 2.5khz 24db/oct right now. I don't have my doors sealed or deadened and midbass is superior to what I have had in the past: kicker SS65.2 and CDT classics. The kickers were a little clearer I think but I haven't played with phase or anything, and these aren't even broken in yet.


----------



## lanc-xpr

Hi guys! 
Having a problem with mid bass speakers!!
Tweetters is very very good with sharp sound- like it! but midbass is ... hollow and dont have attack!  
system is:
HU: JVC KW-AV71BT
amp: alpine pdx f4
wires: good one KLOTZ LY225B for speakers and KLOTZ MC5000
a friend of mine told me what the only my hope is to get DSP like alpine H700+RUX700 or to change mid.
before this install i have:
infinity cappa 60.9+alpine117+h100+pdx f4, it was active setup.

guide me plz)


----------



## Bayboy

How are the speakers setup? The area where they are installed deadened? Crossover points? Have you checked the wiring for proper phase? Have you tried reversing phase on one mid?


----------



## SeniorXJ

fuzzcar said:


> I ordered a set of MS-62c's back around march. Got them installed sometime around june. Currently only running them unamped and passive, but they still sound really really good in may fully deadened doors. I can actually feel kickbass.
> 
> Well about a week ago I noticed the drivers side woofer was not putting out sound  I painstakingly dissambled my doors (not easy with all my deadener) and found that the solder connection where the wire on the speaker (tinsel lead?) attaches to the terminal block was not getting contact even though it appeared to be soldered well. Resoldered the connection and it was back up and booming. Did not even finish my first drive with it working again when I noticed the passenger side woofer is no longer working
> 
> Great sounding speakers... piss poor workmanship.



Figured I would add to this again as my last reply was about the drivers side woofer that needed to be re-solder behind the terminal where the tinsel leads connect. Now my passenger door woofer needed the same thing & so I wanted to add this in here so others can be aware of this issue & know what to fix if there MS woofers stop working!


----------



## kkreit01

lanc-xpr said:


> Hi guys!
> Having a problem with mid bass speakers!!
> Tweetters is very very good with sharp sound- like it! but midbass is ... hollow and dont have attack!
> system is:
> HU: JVC KW-AV71BT
> amp: alpine pdx f4
> wires: good one KLOTZ LY225B for speakers and KLOTZ MC5000
> a friend of mine told me what the only my hope is to get DSP like alpine H700+RUX700 or to change mid.
> before this install i have:
> infinity cappa 60.9+alpine117+h100+pdx f4, it was active setup.
> 
> guide me plz)


Try running them passively. Are your doors sealed and deadened?


----------



## djPerfectTrip

Have these on order, looking forward to getting them hooked up!


----------



## djPerfectTrip

Got these in my car yesterday. I like them. As for now, they are just being powered off of the stock head unit. I really need to get an amp on them because if I turn them up, they start to distort. Compared to the stock speakers they are definitely a lot cleaner and smoother sounding though. Highs are very pronounced but not fatiguing at all. Bass was actually a bit better on the stock speakers, but I believe they were 7" mids. I imagine after a bit of break in they'll start to bump a little more, but they are very clean from top to bottom. It makes me want to get another pair for the rears. At this time I just have it faded to the front, I think I prefer having rears as well tho. We'll see what happens when I get an amp on them and also a sub, if I still feel I'm needing more then I'll get the rears, but for now I think I'll be happy with just the fronts.


----------



## Pillow

backfill is overrated. 

Most people who sit in my car cannot tell the rears are gone at all. Its all in the front staging! Many audiophiles have been impressed by the MS set so far. 

Right now I am still off Bose factory amplification and added a 2" full range Peerless center channel, and am very happy. The PPI 900.4 may never get installed. 

Still chasing a rattle in the passenger door though...


----------



## djPerfectTrip

Pillow said:


> backfill is overrated.


You are probably right. The only passenger I pretty much ever have in the back is my daughter and I usually have it faded to the front anyways when she's watching cartoons in the back. I dunno, I have been listening to it faded to the front since I got the car to try to get used to it, but I kind of prefer the 'fullness' of the sound in the vehicle. But, like I said, once I get an amp and a sub in there it will probably make up for it and I'll be satisfied...hopefully because I don't want to spend that extra cash


----------



## SeniorXJ

djPerfectTrip said:


> Got these in my car yesterday. I like them. As for now, they are just being powered off of the stock head unit. I really need to get an amp on them because if I turn them up, they start to distort. Compared to the stock speakers they are definitely a lot cleaner and smoother sounding though. Highs are very pronounced but not fatiguing at all. Bass was actually a bit better on the stock speakers, but I believe they were 7" mids. I imagine after a bit of break in they'll start to bump a little more, but they are very clean from top to bottom. It makes me want to get another pair for the rears. At this time I just have it faded to the front, I think I prefer having rears as well tho. We'll see what happens when I get an amp on them and also a sub, if I still feel I'm needing more then I'll get the rears, but for now I think I'll be happy with just the fronts.



I also hooked this set up to the radio & they sounded just ok, but I knew they would sound different amped up & doors deadened & those are a MUST DO!. 

First, deaden ur doors to the fullest! If u've never done this b4 then just search on here & u will find all the "how to" articles that u need even if u have zero experience with this step. When done the sound quality will go up!!

Second, Ditch the stock head unit. Nothing special needed as I switched out my 100 yr old Alpine for the Pioneer 80PRS & the sound quality went up again!!

Third, Amp em up! There 4ohms at 80rms so do the math when shopping for an amp & just ask if u need added help. Remember to set ur gains properly & theres plenty of "how to" articles on this here as well!!

When done, this will be a night & day difference that u wont believe!! Just remember not to cut corners & take ur time so u don't over think this all.
Good luck & let us know how things go!!

SeniorXJ


----------



## djPerfectTrip

^^^I'm going with the JBL GTO-5EZ and am going to bridge the front channels. I was thinking about deadening the doors, but it'll probably have to wait for a bit. As far as the stock head unit, it's going to stay for now. I have a 2013 VW Tiguan and I'm happy with it actually. Maybe in a couple years I'll end up swapping it out instead of updating the map, but I kinda like how everything is on it. I definitely wouldn't mind getting a different HU for a better EQ and xovers, just don't want to spend the money on it right now. I appreciate the suggestions tho =^)


----------



## rton20s

Also keep in mind that if you are happy with the head unit, but would like better crossover and EQ, you can always add a DSP.


----------



## djPerfectTrip

^^^True, I've been thinking about that as well as kind of a 'replacement' for getting a different head unit. It'd be a cheaper alternative too.


----------



## pjf1fan

djPerfectTrip said:


> ^^^...I have a 2013 VW Tiguan and I'm happy with it actually. Maybe in a couple years I'll end up swapping it out instead of updating the map, but I kinda like how everything is on it. I definitely wouldn't mind getting a different HU for a better EQ and xovers, just don't want to spend the money on it right now. I appreciate the suggestions tho =^)


The Premium sound head units in the 2013 VWs are quite excellent really. I would definitely keep it there, maybe add a JBL MS8 sound processor to take the sound up a couple notches. The MS8 includes an 8-channel amplifier too, look into it. As for sound deadening, the VW door panels are very rigid but a wood trim ring under the woofer with one covering of a 12" x 12" dampening material will make a big difference.


----------



## djPerfectTrip

^^^Good to know, thank ya.


----------



## JoeHemi57

djPerfectTrip said:


> ^^^Good to know, thank ya.


I have the 3ez hooked up on my MS62's and its plenty of power for them, amp and the MS12 sub are for sale if you're interested. I can do both for less than you would pay for a 5ez.


----------



## djPerfectTrip

^^^for a sub I'm trying to keep the box as small as possible. That would be a bit bigger than I would want. Thanks tho~


----------



## djPerfectTrip

djPerfectTrip said:


> Got these in my car yesterday. I like them. As for now, they are just being powered off of the stock head unit. I really need to get an amp on them because if I turn them up, they start to distort. Compared to the stock speakers they are definitely a lot cleaner and smoother sounding though. Highs are very pronounced but not fatiguing at all. Bass was actually a bit better on the stock speakers, but I believe they were 7" mids. I imagine after a bit of break in they'll start to bump a little more, but they are very clean from top to bottom. It makes me want to get another pair for the rears. At this time I just have it faded to the front, I think I prefer having rears as well tho. We'll see what happens when I get an amp on them and also a sub, if I still feel I'm needing more then I'll get the rears, but for now I think I'll be happy with just the fronts.


Now that these are breaking in a bit, the lows are coming out quite a bit more. I can't wait to get an amp on these things, I can already tell they are great speakers, more power is going to really make them shine.


----------



## Golden Ear

djPerfectTrip said:


> more power is going to really make them shine.


Sounds like something Tim Allen would say
But I agree with you, it usually does.


----------



## djPerfectTrip

^^^ha ha, I just watched a couple of his stand ups not too long ago. Funny stuff =^)


----------



## dun_kurt

Hi all..newbie here. Im searching for a good component set right now. Ive been eyeing jbl p660 before, but today i found this set instead. Just now i found another similar set like ms-62c at my hometown, it is ms-69c with power rated at 330w. Designed by harman brazil, assembled in P.R.C. The seller told me that unit is original..but i cant find any info about ms-69c anywhere:surprised:.
Another question, how to know that ur buying original jbl set from ebay or amazon?


----------



## JoeHemi57

dun_kurt said:


> Hi all..newbie here. Im searching for a good component set right now. Ive been eyeing jbl p660 before, but today i found this set instead. Just now i found another similar set like ms-62c at my hometown, it is ms-69c with power rated at 330w. Designed by harman brazil, assembled in P.R.C. The seller told me that unit is original..but i cant find any info about ms-69c anywhere:surprised:.
> Another question, how to know that ur buying original jbl set from ebay or amazon?


is it a 6.5" mid or a 6x9? never heard of the ms69 but I wished they had made one since I had a challenger that had stock 6x9's in the front doors. I'm not sure about that power rating either, seems very high for rms even is it was 165 watts per side.

JBL makes some stuff elsewhere we don't see in the USA, I saw a P653 kit on ebay that was similar to the P660 but added a 3" midrange and a different passive crossover.


----------



## dun_kurt

JoeHemi57 said:


> is it a 6.5" mid or a 6x9? never heard of the ms69 but I wished they had made one since I had a challenger that had stock 6x9's in the front doors. I'm not sure about that power rating either, seems very high for rms even is it was 165 watts per side.
> 
> JBL makes some stuff elsewhere we don't see in the USA, I saw a P653 kit on ebay that was similar to the P660 but added a 3" midrange and a different passive crossover.


its 6.5 mid, weird right? i think it is 330 peak, not rms. but still..cant find ms-69c on google too. the seller quote me rm1100(usd 348) with installation


----------



## JoeHemi57

That is strange, I kinda wish I had went with the P660's that I had been wanting but I got talked in to the MS62 and the tweet was a little bright for me. I like very laid back tweeters though so they are probably perfect for most people.


----------



## djPerfectTrip

Hrmm, I don't find them bright at all.


----------



## JoeHemi57

djPerfectTrip said:


> Hrmm, I don't find them bright at all.


mine were in the dash and reflecting off the windshield and i'm just sensitive to really high frequencies. i had them at the middle attenuation setting also, -6 maybe?


----------



## Bayboy

Had the tweets on the dash as well. Off-axis was best, but not firing towards the windshield. The more on-axis the more fatiguing. Across the dash minimized it somewhat. If possible, the upper door would probably be better.


----------



## MattMethods

Hey all, 

Absolutely loving what I've heard about these components, but I'm just wondering if they're worth their now $300 price tag. I'm in Aus, and can get the jbl p660Cs for literally half the price of the MS-62s, so I was wondering if they are worth that much extra? 

The car is a mistubishi magna station wagon (diamante for you Americans), and I have a pioneer deh 80prs for the head unit, and plan to run whatever components I'll buy active. Thanks all in advance!


----------



## mmiller

MattMethods said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Absolutely loving what I've heard about these components, but I'm just wondering if they're worth their now $300 price tag. I'm in Aus, and can get the jbl p660Cs for literally half the price of the MS-62s, so I was wondering if they are worth that much extra?
> 
> The car is a mistubishi magna station wagon (diamante for you Americans), and I have a pioneer deh 80prs for the head unit, and plan to run whatever components I'll buy active. Thanks all in advance!



IMO they're worth the extra money, but if your going active, you can achieve as good or better sonically with some DIY drivers for less money. It just depends on what you goals are.


----------



## Hispls

MattMethods said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Absolutely loving what I've heard about these components, but I'm just wondering if they're worth their now $300 price tag. I'm in Aus, and can get the jbl p660Cs for literally half the price of the MS-62s, so I was wondering if they are worth that much extra?
> 
> The car is a mistubishi magna station wagon (diamante for you Americans), and I have a pioneer deh 80prs for the head unit, and plan to run whatever components I'll buy active. Thanks all in advance!


I hear odd stories about what people pay for audio equipment outside USA. For the sake of comparison what other stuff is a 300$ price tag over there for you?

If you're in USA I'd say not worth 300$, but let's compare to what else you can actually find for that price tag.


----------



## MattMethods

Hispls said:


> I hear odd stories about what people pay for audio equipment outside USA. For the sake of comparison what other stuff is a 300$ price tag over there for you?
> 
> If you're in USA I'd say not worth 300$, but let's compare to what else you can actually find for that price tag.


Well I just found a (basically new) pair of Hertz hsk 165 components from $300, since they couldn't fit the guys car, so I'm also considering those as well. I haven't really had a look at stuff in store, since it's so much cheaper getting it off the internet (I got the deh 80prs for nearly half online than it would be from in store).


----------



## djPerfectTrip

JoeHemi57 said:


> mine were in the dash and reflecting off the windshield and i'm just sensitive to really high frequencies. i had them at the middle attenuation setting also, -6 maybe?


Ah, mine are in the door pillars so are off axis quite a bit.


----------



## Devourment

MattMethods said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Absolutely loving what I've heard about these components, but I'm just wondering if they're worth their now $300 price tag. I'm in Aus, and can get the jbl p660Cs for literally half the price of the MS-62s, so I was wondering if they are worth that much extra?
> 
> The car is a mistubishi magna station wagon (diamante for you Americans), and I have a pioneer deh 80prs for the head unit, and plan to run whatever components I'll buy active. Thanks all in advance!


Keep in mind the majority of these reviews are whenever the normal price of the speakers were $170+.

But yeah, they're definitely worth it.


----------



## MattMethods

Devourment said:


> Keep in mind the majority of these reviews are whenever the normal price of the speakers were $170+.
> 
> But yeah, they're definitely worth it.


Hmm, well I've found a pair of basically brand new hertz hsk 165 for $300 as well, should I go for those instead?


----------



## Devourment

MattMethods said:


> Hmm, well I've found a pair of basically brand new hertz hsk 165 for $300 as well, should I go for those instead?


Hmm. I've never actually ran a pair of Hertz and I've been wanting too for years. So if I were you, I would. I'm bias though because I've ran the JBL's. 

The tweeters on the JBL's are seriously very, very good.


----------



## MattMethods

Devourment said:


> Hmm. I've never actually ran a pair of Hertz and I've been wanting too for years. So if I were you, I would. I'm bias though because I've ran the JBL's.
> 
> The tweeters on the JBL's are seriously very, very good.


Yeah sweet. Well I have a mate who would probably buy the hertz off me if I didn't like them, so there really isn't any risk in going for the hertz over the JBLs.


----------



## pjf1fan

MattMethods said:


> Hmm, well I've found a pair of basically brand new hertz hsk 165 for $300 as well, should I go for those instead?


I have both the JBL MS62c and the Hertz HSK 165. I've tested both and it is true, the tweeter on the JBL is magical in it's clarity and it's spaciousness is grand. The midrange is deeper toned on the Hertz set and the Hertz is more sensitive. Midbass is definitely the Hertz's forte, the bass strings just come across more robust on the Hertz. 

I still prefer the JBL for it's phenomenal high end, it's blending of the tweeter with the midrange and for it's price advantage. Before you take anything I say too seriously it's beneficial to know that this is my experience in just a living room setup with the drivers on the carpet. I simply couldn't wait to install them to listen to them. Take what I say with a grain of salt but many here could back up my experience with in-car feedback much the same.


----------



## Bayboy

The JBL are great in all aspects except lower midbass. If you're of the type that need that extra output near lower crossover points (roughly 80hz) then I'd look elsewhere. It simply doesn't have the xmax to strongly play down low although some have claimed. I've made it introduce "slap" at times where other drivers had no issue whatsoever. However, if you can use a higher crossover point between sub and mid then they can't be beat for the price.


----------



## MattMethods

Bayboy said:


> The JBL are great in all aspects except lower midbass. If you're of the type that need that extra output near lower crossover points (roughly 80hz) then I'd look elsewhere. It simply doesn't have the xmax to strongly play down low although some have claimed. I've made it introduce "slap" at times where other drivers had no issue whatsoever. However, if you can use a higher crossover point between sub and mid then they can't be beat for the price.


What crossover point would you use between sub and mid? Do you think that the midrange and tweeter would outshine the hertz hsk 165 components (both active).


----------



## MattMethods

^Keeping in mind that It will cost the same for either set.


----------



## Bayboy

Have no experience with Hertz, but the usable crossover point of any driver is highly dependent on volume. Of course you can get away with more at lower volumes so only you can answer that since it pertains to your listening habits.


----------



## mitsukid

Anyone have an opinion on how the JBL tweeters in this set compare to a little higher end tweeter like the Dynaudio MD102?


----------



## OZSQL

mitsukid said:


> Anyone have an opinion on how the JBL tweeters in this set compare to a little higher end tweeter like the Dynaudio MD102?


They don't....lot of hype for a mediocre comp set at best. I bought a set and found that I could have had a lot better for the money. 

Tweeter is horrible. Mid bass is fairly strong in my door. My door is sealed and deadened well and the mid bass has to be cut. Midrange is well...... not so good. Pioneer TSD1720 blows these away for less money and the ID CTX is miles ahead of these for the same money.


----------



## calibre

I'm sorry but I went directly from the Pioneer 1720s to the 62c and imho although great value, there is no way they are a better set, they were the only thing changed in my system, and the 1720 tweets are nowhere near as detailed or crisp, and the narrow stage/sweet spot of the pioneers completely opened up on the jbl set. I was never once totally happy with them like I am the jbls.
They could have an edge in midbass extension, but they are a bigger driver afterall.


----------



## adrianp89

Just finished getting mine in with the amplifier and processor. Right now at [email protected] and [email protected] When I get the sub in I def need to raise the xover point of the mids, the tweeters sound exceptional right now though. 20 watts for the tweeters is plenty.


----------



## Golden Ear

the727kid said:


> Just finished getting mine in with the amplifier and processor. Right now at [email protected] and [email protected] When I get the sub in I def need to raise the xover point of the mids, the tweeters sound exceptional right now though. 20 watts for the tweeters is plenty.


So they aren't sounding good down to 80hz?


----------



## tyroneshoes

For the people raving about this set, is it the first decent metal dome tweet youve used?


----------



## schmiddr2

Seems like a logical question. And for me, yes it is the first metal domes.


----------



## JoeHemi57

I wasn't overly impressed with these, really wish i had got the P660c instead but i just don't go for metal domes at all.


----------



## adrianp89

Golden Ear said:


> So they aren't sounding good down to 80hz?


Sound fine until they start getting loud, sounds somewhat like they are bottoming out.


----------



## JoeHemi57

the727kid said:


> Sound fine until they start getting loud, sounds somewhat like they are bottoming out.


Yeah i heard the same thing a few times on mine and wasn't overpowering at all. Seems like they have trouble with certain transitions or something. Definitely not as good as all the hype in my opinion and i'm a huge JBL fan.


----------



## Bayboy

the727kid said:


> Sound fine until they start getting loud, sounds somewhat like they are bottoming out.


Same reason I removed them. At 120hz and they're fine, but a little lacking down low of course.


----------



## adrianp89

Thinking about it I'm pretty sure I messed up when setting the Ms-8. The gains for the mids weren't matched pre-tune and after tune I noticed and adjusted. I am pretty sure it is boosting the left mid to compensate and that is my issue currently. I will re-set up and see how it works.


----------



## schmiddr2

I've never had this problem when setting the xover, slope, gains manually. OIr with the passives.


----------



## tyroneshoes

schmiddr2 said:


> Seems like a logical question. And for me, yes it is the first metal domes.


I ask because I just installed these in a friends car. Simple passive comp up front, 4 channel amp, single 12

I didnt like them at all and found the tweeter shrill and I am a fan a metal domes. Midbass was also average but not horrible. We returned the set and I installed an old german MB quart premium set I got of ebay for like 120 which blew this JBL set away in all aspects.

The Qtc, ptc and rtc 25mm thats 6 ohms is all the same tweeter and sounds better in every way. If you want a hard dome, you really gotta try old quart or german maestro. These jbls reminded me of the recent ppi metal domes...very average. If youre a fan of this set, I recommend you seek out a QSD or premium set on ebay as theyre selling way under 300 these days.


----------



## JoeHemi57

tyroneshoes said:


> I ask because I just installed these in a friends car. Simple passive comp up front, 4 channel amp, single 12
> 
> I didnt like them at all and found the tweeter shrill and I am a fan a metal domes. Midbass was also average but not horrible. We returned the set and I installed an old german MB quart premium set I got of ebay for like 120 which blew this JBL set away in all aspects.
> 
> The Qtc, ptc and rtc 25mm thats 6 ohms is all the same tweeter and sounds better in every way. If you want a hard dome, you really gotta try old quart or german maestro. These jbls reminded me of the recent ppi metal domes...very average. If youre a fan of this set, I recommend you seek out a QSD or premium set on ebay as theyre selling way under 300 these days.


That's what I had, GT3ez, ms62c and ms12 and it was ok for what I paid which was like $300 for everything. These comps are on ebay for 105 shipped or make offer. link is in hot deals section.


----------



## schmiddr2

I don't doubt there are better metal domes, this is a $300 MSRP set. Previously I had a silk dome from the 356cs set and the JBL are much more live sounding. To me it sounds like sitting in front of a band in a small room. Not saying it's prefect, but the instruments sound live.

I'd like to hear the QSD. I've heard lots about the MBQ metals over the years. It seems there are some similarities of reviews between MBQ metals and the JBL; I have read some people say they didn't like them and some say they love them. Not sure if this is a metal dome thing or just another instance where people use the word "bright" for all kinds of sound issues.


----------



## tyroneshoes

For the going price its a good deal I guess, I just didnt like them very much. Was expecting so much more. We got them through crutchfield with everything else. So for $300, they were a huge let down.

100 bucks you cant really beat but if you wanna really see these shine, try to find some old quart tweeters preferably the premium or qsd ones to swap in. If you like the liveliness and detail of the JBLs, then you would love the 25mm 6 ohm quarts. I scored a set on ebay for $45


----------



## OZSQL

tyroneshoes said:


> I ask because I just installed these in a friends car. Simple passive comp up front, 4 channel amp, single 12
> 
> I didnt like them at all and found the tweeter shrill and I am a fan a metal domes. Midbass was also average but not horrible. We returned the set and I installed an old german MB quart premium set I got of ebay for like 120 which blew this JBL set away in all aspects.
> 
> The Qtc, ptc and rtc 25mm thats 6 ohms is all the same tweeter and sounds better in every way. If you want a hard dome, you really gotta try old quart or german maestro. These jbls reminded me of the recent ppi metal domes...very average. If youre a fan of this set, I recommend you seek out a QSD or premium set on ebay as theyre selling way under 300 these days.


You had the exact same impression as I did about them. Avg mid and horrible tweet.


----------



## thebigjimsho

schmiddr2 said:


> I don't doubt there are better metal domes, this is a $300 MSRP set. Previously I had a silk dome from the 356cs set and the JBL are much more live sounding. To me it sounds like sitting in front of a band in a small room. Not saying it's prefect, but the instruments sound live.
> 
> I'd like to hear the QSD. I've heard lots about the MBQ metals over the years. It seems there are some similarities of reviews between MBQ metals and the JBL; I have read some people say they didn't like them and some say they love them. Not sure if this is a metal dome thing or just another instance where people use the word "bright" for all kinds of sound issues.


I think MBQ tweets are very sensitive to install and tune. As an a/d/s/ fan, I always favored soft domes. BA seemed to have nice metal dome tweets, but I never liked MBQuart. But most of the time, I was listening in a chain store or a friend's ride and who wanted LOUD. 

No doubt metal domes can be brighter. But I found out the MBQs can be tuned right and sound phenomenal as well.


----------



## Nevershallifall

Has anyone compared them to the image dynamics xs components? I'm stuck between them and the jbl's.


----------



## JoeHemi57

Nevershallifall said:


> Has anyone compared them to the image dynamics xs components? I'm stuck between them and the jbl's.


I had XS65's mounted as coax's in my doors of a 240sx a few years ago running passive off a JBL px300.4 front channels. They would get extremely loud without distorting and were pretty great even though i didn't know anything about tuning back then. The Ms62's i ran off the front channels of the GT3ez so about half the power of what i had on the XS and they just didn't impress me, maybe i was expecting too much with all the hype but if i had to buy another set and it was between these i would go ID for sure.


----------



## tyroneshoes

id go id easily


----------



## Nevershallifall

So i have found 1 more compeditor. Now i am stuck between the id xs jbl ms62c and polk mm6501. I am looking to hook up my first real sq type system. i will be using a rockford p500x4d and a pioneer deh 80prs that i just picked up.


----------



## Maximilliano

Anyone selling their tweeters from the MS-62C set please pm me.


----------



## rton20s

I'm not claiming they are the same, but the PPI or Soundstream versions might be worth the gamble and they are sold individually.


----------



## vulgamore89

Nevershallifall said:


> So i have found 1 more compeditor. Now i am stuck between the id xs jbl ms62c and polk mm6501. I am looking to hook up my first real sq type system. i will be using a rockford p500x4d and a pioneer deh 80prs that i just picked up.



I have both the jbl and Polk set in a 2008 silverado. IMO the jbl tweets sound better and the Polk mids sound better


----------



## Nevershallifall

Yeah to bad you can't get them seperatly. That's what I've been hearing about the sets. I think I'm going to go with the jbl's since I seen them on sonic for 169 with free shipping. They are getting a shipment right from Harman on January 8th so let's see what happens.


----------



## oKMSo

....


----------



## oKMSo

....


----------



## Nevershallifall

I finally was able to commit to the ms-62c's! Now I just can't wait to get them hooked up! I currently have Rockford t1 6x8 2 way and Memphis Sr tweeters in my sail's so this should be a nice improvement.


----------



## kudkud

Hey Chithead, anybody else!

(Sorry guys noob, first post) You guys don't know me but I was reading chitheads post on this thread a couple of days ago and I think he may be able to answer my question, anyone else too please!!!!! This is kind of a vague question but out of these three drivers what would your recommendation be: JBL MS-62c, JL Audio C3 or C5? I can afford the C5's but I was wondering if you could go into detail what the difference on these units would be and whether it would be beneficial to spend more money on the JL's or not. I plan on running them passive since I'm not familiar with tuning and would rather focus on just installing the units correctly and possibly running them active down the road. They will be powered by a PDX-F4. I have some more questions but I do not want to bog you guys down or annoy you :laugh: Any help or advice would be super helpful and beneficial, thanks guys really appreciate it!!! Ps, one last thing, do you guys have any experience HAT Imagine/Unity components? (Was thinking Unity vs C5??? Was originally planing on buying the unity, but these jBL's sound like an awesome deal at $179 leaving me more to spend on other things, I can get the c3s for $269, c5s for $309 and HATs for regular price) once again sorry for typos and typical noob stuff


----------



## chithead

All of those are great choices for sure. The MS-62c remains one of my favorite component sets to this day. The detail from that tweeter, and the "lively" sound from the mid, is just really hard to compare to any other comps I've heard. The C3 and C5 both had more lower midbass output, but paired with the right subwoofer, the JBL set is a contender for sure.


----------



## Bayboy

Hands down the JBL is an excellent MIDRANGE set with good fundamentals, just not that great in the lower midbass. This has been the caveat from the beginning. There's simply not enough xmax for them to dig low at upper volumes. I don't believe they were made to do that. If you have a sub that can handle up around 100-120hz smoothly or have a system that can handle staggered crossover points then they work fine.


----------



## fuzzcar

When did these start costing $300? I overpaid for mine @ $199 a little over a year ago, other places had the for like 179


----------



## rton20s

fuzzcar said:


> When did these start costing $300? I overpaid for mine @ $199 a little over a year ago, other places had the for like 179


When JBL brought the hammer down on their authorized vendors. You can find them for $180 authorized again though. 

JBL MS-62C 6-1/2" 2-Way MS Component Car Speakers System (MS62C)


----------



## Pillow

x2 BayBoys last comment on page 28. 

I really enjoy the old MBQ stuff so IMO the MS62 set is great affordable update on the same concept at a reasonable price. The tweeters QTD25/PTD25 vs JBL are very close in output from my ears listening. The JBL mids are better than the Q crap, I have always hated the Q mids, just no bump at all out of them. Again the JBLs suffer the same lack of low end though. But I think the JBL mids are very clean and clear under heavy volume w/o giving up clarity... They just do not pound out lows, period. Most speakers distort at the same volume levels though, so I am happy. Also the JLBs play low volumes well for daily listening, you do not have to crank it to enjoy them. 

One day I would like to pair the MS62 tweets with the Silver Flutes as an experiment... In theory, sonic bliss. 

Again as stated, have a real sub. Tune it a bit higher. And you will be happy. + install with deadener and all that jazz properly.


----------



## Pillow

Also metal domes are very sensitive to install. Silkies are much more forgiving. Just wanted to point that out for the haters. 

And I swear most people are not used to listening to real live music. Go to a symphony and tell me how "laid back" the brass is???? it's not, it blows your ears off!


----------



## tyroneshoes

Pillow said:


> The tweeters QTD25/PTD25 vs JBL are very close in output from my ears listening. The JBL mids are better than the Q crap, I have always hated the Q mids, just no bump at all out of them. .


disagree. These tweets and the mb qtds sound very different. a/b'd during install.

I also had decent midbass from qsd woofers just 80hz and up. Never lacking but not robust. I had no midbass issues with the jbls hp at 80hz.

But yeah, if you dont wanna used set of MBs or pay the redic price for german maestros these are pretty close for the cost. Just need to eq the tweets. I returned these because I and the owner of the car just wasnt a fan. We put the MB premiums in and we were both happy.

Personally Im using the widesphere tweets and ID xs69s and its lovely.


----------



## rton20s

Are you referring to the current generation MB Quart Premiums? 

MB Quart Premium Speakers

If so, how would you compare them to the MS-62Cs? I find this an interesting comparison because these are currently fairly close in street pricing, with the MB being a bit cheaper depending on where you look.


----------



## pimpmyboat

Just ordered a set of these! Partially thanks to the reviews here, and listening to a friend set. They're going to be run active. mids in the doors tweets in the a-pillars.


----------



## BEAVER

There are some wildly varying opinions in this thread. I don't know what to make of it.


----------



## CDT FAN

You need to weigh the reviews as a whole. It is that way with ANY product. Someone will ALWAYS love it and some will always find fault. Go to Amazon.com and look at the reviews an any random product.


----------



## Bayboy

BEAVER said:


> There are some wildly varying opinions in this thread. I don't know what to make of it.


Due to tastes and expectations. Punchy midbass it did not exhibit. Decent snap and excellent midrange to high detail. Swapped out with a set of Diamond mids on the same amp and could immediately lower the crossover without bottoming out the coil. I'd still run the JBL set... just wanted more bottom end from the doors.


----------



## tyroneshoes

rton20s said:


> Are you referring to the current generation MB Quart Premiums?
> 
> MB Quart Premium Speakers
> 
> If so, how would you compare them to the MS-62Cs? I find this an interesting comparison because these are currently fairly close in street pricing, with the MB being a bit cheaper depending on where you look.


No these 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-quart-pvf-216-aka-german-maestro-sv6509.html

I grabbed two sets, sold one, kept one and it is my fav tweet yet. But off axis performance was important on dash. I liked the qsd tweets a lot but these are superior tweets. The exact same as German Maestros. They didnt even change the woofer. If you can find this generation of mb quart widesphere made in Germany, youre basically finding the gm stratus. I have the rest of the set in my basement. Quality set.

Oh, if youre asking what we swapped the jbl ms set for is was older barely used Mb Quart pce216 like this










It was like night and day.


----------



## rton20s

Thanks for the info. 

Interesting how close in "look" the rendering of the new premium tweeter is to the pvf216 tweeter. 


















Then it ultimately ends up looking like this...









Something tells me it probably doesn't quite sound the same either.


----------



## tyroneshoes

rton20s said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Interesting how close in "look" the rendering of the new premium tweeter is to the pvf216 tweeter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it ultimately ends up looking like this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something tells me it probably doesn't quite sound the same either.


big difference. new stuff isnt nearly as good

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8921_MB-Quart-PVF-216.html


----------



## rton20s

tyroneshoes said:


> big difference. new stuff isnt nearly as good
> 
> MB Quart PVF-216 (pvf216) 6-1/2" Premium Series 2-way Component


No doubt. Have you happened to see the videos that Sonic has posted on youtube from the Maxxonics guys at CES 2014. If I wasn't leery of their products before...


----------



## moparman1

stockley.rod said:


> Great review, thanks. Might have to try a set out in the GF's Corolla.
> 
> That basket and magnet structure looks pretty damn close to my H-Audio Soul.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


That's interesting. I just got a pair of Energy components today that also have this exact same basket. Only difference is the outer edges are polished. Will try to get a pic tomorrow.


----------



## rton20s

moparman1 said:


> That's interesting. I just got a pair of Energy components today that also have this exact same basket. Only difference is the outer edges are polished. Will try to get a pic tomorrow.


I think it is a pretty widely used basket. That doesn't mean a whole lot though in terms of how the individual brands/drivers compare.


----------



## moparman1

rton20s said:


> I think it is a pretty widely used basket. That doesn't mean a whole lot though in terms of how the individual brands/drivers compare.


Agreed. However, they don't have to be great to be better than the current Crunch components I'm currently running. Lol.


----------



## tyroneshoes

moparman1 said:


> Agreed. However, they don't have to be great to be better than the current Crunch components I'm currently running. Lol.


the dls reference comp is in my opinion a much better deal and better sounding set


----------



## moparman1

tyroneshoes said:


> the dls reference comp is in my opinion a much better deal and better sounding set


Thanks for the recommendation. I'll definitely keep those in mind. However, I got a really good deal on the Energy set. $10. Lol.


----------



## Bayboy

Shelf parts like baskets, cones, etc are common as build houses aren't that many as far as I know. It's the different combinations and/or specifications that makes the difference. The companies that are requiring specialized components for their set aren't going to be so cheap, but more than likely worth it. I still say the JBL set is a great one as long as you have a sub that reaches high & smoothly. Perhaps a ported MS sub might be best, but very few have gone that route.


----------



## DrewV

Just got my MS-62c set today. The tweeters are pre-wired with insulated wires that are "clear" and "clear with red stripe". My question is: which one is the NEGATIVE lead? Normally it's the one with the stripe, but since the stripe is colored RED, I can't really be sure.

Anyone?


----------



## CDT FAN

look at the lug on the end. The large one is positive.


----------



## DrewV

The large lug is on the red striped wire. Like I said, usually the striped wire is negative, but I guess in this case the red stripe indicates positive.

Thanks.


----------



## CDT FAN

That is like Ford's idea of making the black hot.


----------



## DrewV

Still waiting for the weather to warm up before I install my JBLs, but I was wondering about something.

My plan is to temporarily mount the tweeters in various locations to find the "best" placement before making it permanent, but it occurs to me that there is so much else that makes up a good overall sounding system. Time alignment, level balance, L/R EQ, etc. So what do most people do in this case?

Do I need to go through the entire TA/EQ process every time I move my tweeters a few inches? From what I gather, most people claim their system totally changes (for the better) once TA/gains/EQ are performed. So, how can we possibly find the "best" location for the tweeters without doing all of this processing?


----------



## moparman1

DrewV said:


> Still waiting for the weather to warm up before I install my JBLs, but I was wondering about something.
> 
> My plan is to temporarily mount the tweeters in various locations to find the "best" placement before making it permanent, but it occurs to me that there is so much else that makes up a good overall sounding system. Time alignment, level balance, L/R EQ, etc. So what do most people do in this case?
> 
> Do I need to go through the entire TA/EQ process every time I move my tweeters a few inches? From what I gather, most people claim their system totally changes (for the better) once TA/gains/EQ are performed. So, how can we possibly find the "best" location for the tweeters without doing all of this processing?


In my experience, no. When you find a spot you like, it helps to play with eq. But when trying different locations, you're looking for the location with the least reflections. Reflections will essentially make your tweeters sound bright and harsh. Look for spaces where these are at a minimum, then try tweaking your tuning.


----------



## cajunner

your ears are key to success.

if you find a spot, angle and axis that complements the tweeter's output, you'll be able to hear it. 

then when it comes time to do some fine tuning, you'll have less to cut with eq and time alignment will just bring it that much more into focus.

that's the perk with having component tweeters, not only are you capable of getting them out of the doors and firing into your knees, you are able to decide if you like dash splash, dash pods, kick depth, sail panel width, or staying with the woofer for more coherence.


----------



## Thairon

Ordered these and a thin alpine type r. Need amp suggestions.


----------



## Golden Ear

Any amp that puts out the power you need for the right price. I'm using a PDX V9 and it works great.


----------



## Thairon

Haven't been able to find one that gives enough power to the sub without over powering the comps


----------



## Golden Ear

Don't worry about overpowering the comps. Just turn the gain down to those channels as needed.


----------



## Thairon

Hmmm. Sure that won't effect them?


----------



## cajunner

Thairon said:


> Hmmm. Sure that won't effect them?


give us specifics.

what amp are you considering, how much power do you feel is too much, etc.

if you find an amp that does 125 X 4 at 4 ohms, and it's old school where you bridge a pair of channels and get 500W from the bridged pair at 4 ohm mono, then you'd have 125 going to the components.


that's not a bad system, and 125 should be pretty good for these JBL comps since you're implementing a subwoofer.


----------



## Thairon

Pdx v9 alpine, swr t12, JBL ms 62c. I've heard the alpine needs alot of power to sound good. It's going in an 06 crew cab frontier


----------



## Golden Ear

Thairon said:


> Hmmm. Sure that won't effect them?


There are guys putting 450 watts to their tweeters...I'm sure. Just have to be responsible with the volume knob.


----------



## Thairon

That seems like a lot. I'm worried that they won't keep up with the sub. I'm having issues finding the right amp. 500 is what I have to spend.


----------



## rton20s

You'll be fine. It's all in gain adjustment and level matching. My tweeters are currently on channels rated at 155w. My gains are all the way down. Do you think they are ever actually receiving 155w? No. Nowhere close to it. 

If you've got $500 to spend on a 5 channel amp, the PDX-V9 is probably a good choice. Whatever you choose, focus on the power output for the sub, this is usually the most lacking section of 5 channel amps.


----------



## tyroneshoes

Kenwood Excelon XR900 5 5 Channel Car Amplifier 900W RMS | eBay

150x2 + 600x1


----------



## fuzzcar

I have had nothing but problems out of these speakers having piss poor connections. First I noticed that the drivers side speaker stopped working, took my door back apart found that a connection to the woofer was bad even though it appeared good, if you wiggled the braided wire it would play. Resoldered the bad connection. Took it for a test drive, all was well, before test drive ended passenger side started doing the same thing! Fixed that side. Now a few months later drivers side is acting up again, either my solder failed or its the other lead...  I would definitely not purchase again, and hell ****ing no for 300


----------



## DrewV

The weak leads have been reported here for quite a while now. I think it would be best to just go ahead and solder them brand new, out of the box, before installation.

Also, I agree that there are definitely better options out there for $300. But these speakers can be found pretty easily for $175. In that context, these are very good speakers for less than $200.

I think most people buy these speakers for their audio performance, not necessarily for build quality.


----------



## DrewV

Just installed my MS-62 components running active off my Pioneer 80PRS and I had some questions on my crossover settings.

After a bit of tweaking, I think I've found what I consider to be decent crossover settings, but I'm curious if I am missing anything. This is my first active setup and I *think* I know what to listen for, but without an RTA I'm just limited to using my ears.

Using an IDQ10 for my sub in a sealed 0.6 cu. ft. box.

At this point, here are my settings:

Low LPF: 63 @ 18 dB <-- This is where the Pioneer auto-tune ended up. Should I push this to 80?
Mid HPF: 100 @ 18 dB
Mid LPF: 2.5k @ 24 dB <-- Is this too high for the MS-62's? Maybe I should lower the Mid LPF down a hair?
High HPF: 3.15 @ 24 dB

Like I said, everything SOUNDS good, but I'm interested to hear opinions on things that I might be able to try so that I can improve the sound quality even more. I can always keep going with trial-and-error in hopes that I land on something better, but it would be helpful if someone can point me in a specific direction.

Thanks.


----------



## tbomb

Thairon said:


> That seems like a lot. I'm worried that they won't keep up with the sub. I'm having issues finding the right amp. 500 is what I have to spend.


Why not buy the MS amps to go with these? for $500 you could have both the 4 ch and mono. No, it isnt a single chassis 5 ch, but they are so small it shouldnt matter. And you have full crossover control and can go active.


----------



## Thairon

Bought the pdxv9 and scored a set of old exile xtec comps instead.


----------



## Ericd05

OK So after using these for a While what are your opinions? Do you think these are still badass or would it be better to go with Polk MM6501 or Image Dynamics CTX-6.5cs?


----------



## DrewV

Played around a bit more and I think I managed to improve my settings:

Low LPF: 63 @ 24 dB
Mid HPF: 100 @ 12 dB
Mid LPF: 2.0k @ 24 dB
High HPF: 3.15 @ 24 dB


I think lowering the mid LPF to 2.0k seems to have removed some overlap with the tweeters and increasing the mid HPF slope to 12dB smoothed out the bass transition a bit.

It may sound strange, but I think the tweeters seem to be "breaking in" the more they play. I initially thought they were a bit forward and bright, but they seem to have calmed down a bit over the last week or so. In fact, I've even raised up my 8k and 12.5k levels just a touch on the EQ.

All in all, these are pretty darn good speakers.


----------



## TheBetterMethod

A few pages back guys pointed out that the Soundstream TWT.6T is a similar tweeter in appearance and that it might be simply a rebranded JBL.

I let my curiosity get the better of me, and ordered a pair of Soundstreams. I haven't compared them sonically just yet, but I can tell you the design is totally different. 

I happen to be a fan of the JBL system. I use it in my car, and I'm generally happy with it.

The SS tweeter are poorly assembled knockoffs at best. Judging by appearance, they share no parts with the JBLs.

I'll be posting photos later on. It's clear that these SS TWT.6Ts are CHEAP tweeters. DO NOT BOTHER WITH THEM.

Pics tomorrow...


----------



## Gary S

Is the JBL MS-62C a current offering from JBL or are they discontinued? The reason I ask is because I went to the JBL website and I don't see them listed there.


----------



## pjf1fan

I've noticed the MS amps are gone as well. I've been meaning to buy two of the mono and one 4 channel MS. I own the MS-62c and two sets of MS-52c components. They are my favorite of all the speakers I've owned including Hertz High Energy.


----------



## trumpet

They are discontinued, along with MS subs and amps.


----------



## pjf1fan

That's too bad, I'll still pick up the amps and maybe even try a pair of MS10s. I have yet to find a reason not to.


----------



## Colt

I'm in the market for some 5.25's 
I hear great things about the JBL ms-62c and suspect i can expect much from the 52c.
That said, I can get the 52c for around $150 give or take.
I do a ton of research before I buy anything. 
Should I be considering a different set for the price point? 
I've also been looking at 

Alpine (type-r) SPR-50c 
Polk MM5251 
Hertz ESK130.5 

The all share similar price points, power handling and efficiency. 
The are going on a bike, powered by a JL XD400/4. 

Which set would you go with?


----------



## pjf1fan

I would not consider the Hertz ESK series to be in the same league as the others you've mentioned. The others are all good. I have the MS62c and the MS52c and the only difference is the lower midbass output from the smaller surface area. That being said, the MS series don't have quite the midbass output a some other sets mentioned in this thread. Others might extrapolate more with hands on experience as I have not heard either the Polk or the Alpine you've mentioned.


----------



## Bayboy

Id go with the JBL since they're better at midrange than putting out upper bass ("midbass"). I wouldn't think anything below 120-150hz should be of concern on a motorcycle. The fundamentals are definitely there though. On another note, on a bike I'm sure they will be enclosed vs IB in a car door. May surprise you.


----------



## Colt

pjf1fan said:


> I would not consider the Hertz ESK series to be in the same league as the others you've mentioned. The others are all good. I have the MS62c and the MS52c and the only difference is the lower midbass output from the smaller surface area. That being said, the MS series don't have quite the midbass output a some other sets mentioned in this thread. Others might extrapolate more with hands on experience as I have not heard either the Polk or the Alpine you've mentioned.



When you say the ESK's are not in the same league, do you mean better or worse then the JBL's?



Bayboy said:


> Id go with the JBL since they're better at midrange than putting out upper bass ("midbass"). I wouldn't think anything below 120-150hz should be of concern on a motorcycle. The fundamentals are definitely there though. On another note, on a bike I'm sure they will be enclosed vs IB in a car door. May surprise you.


Agreed, 150hz and lower isn't a big deal on a moving bike. After riding around yesterday I realized I would value having good loud vocals over other aspects would be ideal for me, cause I like to sing along after all, lol.

As for IB vs sealed, I made a separate thread asking about that for my application; i could vent into the fairing or I could seal them, or before I seal them I could expand them for more air space, but still no answers.


----------



## pjf1fan

Colt said:


> When you say the ESK's are not in the same league, do you mean better or worse then the JBL's?


In my opinion, they are not as good. The power handling is lacking as well, though that would certainly please fellow car drivers at traffic lights.


----------



## Bayboy

Colt said:


> When you say the ESK's are not in the same league, do you mean better or worse then the JBL's?
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, 150hz and lower isn't a big deal on a moving bike. After riding around yesterday I realized I would value having good loud vocals over other aspects would be ideal for me, cause I like to sing along after all, lol.
> 
> As for IB vs sealed, I made a separate thread asking about that for my application; i could vent into the fairing or I could seal them, or before I seal them I could expand them for more air space, but still no answers.



My only concern would be the use of a driver with a stationary phase plug such as the JBL. With the amount of tiny debris that flies about when riding you can easily risk getting particles down in the coil gap. Personally, I'd go for some other driver that has a dustcap and weatherproof at that. Perhaps the Polk db5251 system since it's marine rated.


----------



## Gary S

> My only concern would be the use of a driver with a stationary phase plug such as the JBL. With the amount of tiny debris that flies about when riding you can easily risk getting particles down in the coil gap.


 - that's true... I had a set of Focal Utopias w/phase plugs years ago in kicks next to the floor, one blew and I suspect this could have been the problem.


I think the Polk MM are in the same league. But not the Alpine set that was mentioned.


----------



## Bayboy

Gary S said:


> - that's true... I had a set of Focal Utopias w/phase plugs years ago in kicks next to the floor, one blew and I suspect this could have been the problem.
> 
> 
> I think the Polk MM are in the same league. But not the Alpine set that was mentioned.



Same thing happened to some Dayton RS180's I had installed in the lower doors of my work truck. Liked them, but it became a bit of a concern.


----------



## Colt

Bayboy said:


> My only concern would be the use of a driver with a stationary phase plug such as the JBL. With the amount of tiny debris that flies about when riding you can easily risk getting particles down in the coil gap. Personally, I'd go for some other driver that has a dustcap and weatherproof at that. Perhaps the Polk db5251 system since it's marine rated.


I agree, it has it's risks. I ran a pair of entry grade JL 3.5" coax's for about 4 years, they still are running, even got wet a bit(tho I shut them off when the rain started). 

I would love to go with a dustcap driver, but other then the polk's their isn't much out there in my tier. And the problem with the polk's are 2.7ohm will be tricky with my amp, and as of right now they are the most expensive @ $210 trending. I heard one review of the polks compaired to the jbl's, where the polks were better on the low side, and jbl better on the mid side, which in my case mids would be more helpful. 

Thank you for the input. If you have an other sets you would recommend it would be helpful.


----------



## Gary S

Colt said:


> And the problem with the polk's are 2.7ohm will be tricky with my amp


 - I don't think there are any aftermarket car amps that won't run at 2 ohms, it should be no concern... unless you are talking about using head unit power.

Did not mean to scare you away from phase plug speakers... mine were in Q-forms and aimed up... they were basically sitting on the floor... but I don't think it's a big concern with door speakers.

However, if you'd still rather go with speakers that have a conventional dust-cap.... Orion HCCA 5.2 might be one to look at... I do think the Polks are a hair better. $200 is still reasonable, they are pretty good.

The problem is, a lot of manufacturers are not even making 5.25" comp sets anymore, many only make a 6.5" set, so you have less choices.

Let me ask you a couple of questions... can you open up the hole and go to a 6.5" set? What kind of vehicle? That would open up more options for you.


----------



## Colt

Gary S said:


> - I don't think there are any aftermarket car amps that won't run at 2 ohms, it should be no concern... unless you are talking about using head unit power.
> 
> Did not mean to scare you away from phase plug speakers... mine were in Q-forms and aimed up... they were basically sitting on the floor... but I don't think it's a big concern with door speakers.
> 
> However, if you'd still rather go with speakers that have a conventional dust-cap.... Orion HCCA 5.2 might be one to look at... I do think the Polks are a hair better. $200 is still reasonable, they are pretty good.
> 
> The problem is, a lot of manufacturers are not even making 5.25" comp sets anymore, many only make a 6.5" set, so you have less choices.
> 
> Let me ask you a couple of questions... can you open up the hole and go to a 6.5" set? What kind of vehicle? That would open up more options for you.


The vehicle is a motorcycle, the holes are custom fiber glass enclosures i molded to the bike. I wanted to do 6.5 from the start for shear amount of options, but they would of looked monstrous on my sport style bike, not to mention it would of been quite a tight fit near the fork tubes. 

The speakers are open to the air, facing on roughly a 45 degree angle to the sky. the speakers i first installed were cheap 3.5 JL coax's they were facing directly up. They've been running for about 3 or 4 years and never had a problem with crap getting down the phase plug/tweeter mount. 
So overall im not that afraid of phase plugs... but the JLs were much cheaper then this next set I'm about to purchase, so i'm a bit more cautious. 

So anyways, after the many hours of fabrication on the fiberglass I am pretty much set for 5.25s.


----------



## Audioguy36

Hello all, 

It has been some time since I wrote the review on the MS-62C. I have since reviewed a few more sets and plan on making a shootout style review of 6.5" components which will include the MS-62C and 5 others, all under $350 with the exception of a high end set for reference and comparison. I never thought the thread would end up with 750+ replies! I am currently working on a website dedicated to Car audio equipment reviews along with home audio which will be the main focus. The site is a work in progress and I will be adding lots of reviews I have already written soon. 

Thorntonhifi.com

Cheers.


----------



## lewiseyers

IBcivic said:


> Nice review, thanx for posting




hang about that looks like a fz1 back end, im very well running a sorted fz1 my self


----------



## lewiseyers

has any one heard of any build quality issues with these

im installing these soon theres a write up started in my thread 2010


----------



## Bayboy

I had an issue with one of the mids to where the set had to be sent back for a replacement. The driver just stopped playing. Was no abuse, and all wiring & connections appeared fine. There has been a few others with the same issue. Bad solder joints perhaps... just make sure you bought from an authorized dealer.


----------



## CrossFired

I've always like the JBL for being able to play loud and stay somewhat linear. I liked my Boston 6.5 Pro's best for just playing insanely loud with little brake up.

Once I heard the smooth sound from Morel, I did what ever it took to get a set. The Morels will not play loud like the bostons would, but there no listening fatigue my Morel's.


----------



## rlee777

CrossFired,

What Morels did you end up with?

I wonder what JBL will be releasing to replace the MS62c? Surprised that such an acclaimed set would be discontinued so soon.


----------



## legend94

can someone tell me if the tweeter is 4ohm?


----------



## schmiddr2

Measured Re: 4


----------



## legend94

schmiddr2 said:


> Measured Re: 4


thanks buddy

the guy i sold the mids and crossover to needs some 4ohm tweets now!


----------



## schmiddr2

Lol. So he needed a component set.

What did you think of them?


----------



## legend94

schmiddr2 said:


> Lol. So he needed a component set.
> 
> What did you think of them?


he did and needs tweeters to finish it out.

the mids are very solid overall at this price point and i would have no issue using them in my car were it not for the arians i have to put in 

the tweeter from this set is not my favorite ever. not terrible but not to the same quality the mid is in my opinion.


----------



## Sparrow

This may not be a fair question, but will these tweeters work well firing upwards to the front windshield - factory dash mounted in a 2013 Chrysler 200? The dash is relatively soft, and the factory location is not in the far corner. Apparently Acura TL owners are happy with their windshield firing tweeters.

I can not make tweeters pods if I tried, and I don't see anywhere else to put the tweeters; the sail panels are angled poorly had do not have much clearance underneath.


----------



## lewiseyers

dont bother buying these componants theres a design fault with them and they all come unglued aroung the cone, had mine 1 week knowing that this fault exists / thinking it would prob be a isolated case and mine fell to bits, never did sound right from day one

glad i brought from a jbl dealer

replaced with

Focal Performance Expert PS165V


----------



## lewiseyers

Colt said:


> I'm in the market for some 5.25's
> I hear great things about the JBL ms-62c and suspect i can expect much from the 52c.
> That said, I can get the 52c for around $150 give or take.
> I do a ton of research before I buy anything.
> Should I be considering a different set for the price point?
> I've also been looking at
> 
> Alpine (type-r) SPR-50c
> Polk MM5251
> Hertz ESK130.5
> 
> The all share similar price points, power handling and efficiency.
> The are going on a bike, powered by a JL XD400/4.
> 
> Which set would you go with?



dont bother buying these componants theres a design fault with them and they all come unglued aroung the cone, had mine 1 week knowing that this fault exists / thinking it would prob be a isolated case and mine fell to bits, never did sound right from day one

glad i brought from a jbl dealer

replaced with

Focal Performance Expert PS165V


----------



## rebar

DrewV said:


> The weak leads have been reported here for quite a while now. I think it would be best to just go ahead and solder them brand new, out of the box, before installation.
> 
> Also, I agree that there are definitely better options out there for $300. But these speakers can be found pretty easily for $175. In that context, these are very good speakers for less than $200.
> 
> I think most people buy these speakers for their audio performance, not necessarily for build quality.


Jesus, glad I read this.. Back to the drawing board!

Focal Performance Expert PS165V ?


----------



## SeniorXJ

rebar said:


> Jesus, glad I read this.. Back to the drawing board!
> 
> Focal Performance Expert PS165V ?


Yup same thing happened to me with both drivers, one doing it twice. What u gotta do is change the direction of the leads a bit, then add more or re-do the soldering, then carefully remove some of it that's glued to the woofer giving u more room then tinning about half of the lines. Haven't had an issue since. Oh & yes, they can be found for there original price of $180 which is what I paid & I'm very happy with them. JBL must of saw what they really had & marketed them where they think they can compete with the competition at the $299 range.


----------



## Maximilliano

Im looking for two sets of tweeters and a set of crossovers for the ms62c's. pm me.


----------



## stopdrpnro

been following this thread for a while now and finally pulled the trigger. set them up to break in a bit and didn't think they were the same set getting all the praise in this thread. figured they would come alive after some break-in and a proper install. spent hrs installing them today and unfortunately i'm still unimpressed. granted they are running off a factory amp(nakamichi) the tweeters are terrible. the symbalance make them tough to listen to . can anybody clue me in on what could be wrong????


----------



## Alrojoca

I would make sure, they connected properly, polarity is good on all the components and the passive crossovers. 

If midbass is lacking, everything from type of ring baffle spacers used, to deadening the door and sealing the gaps and space in between will make a difference in the sound, sealing the door will also help.

They will need at least 50 clean watts to sound good, 100-140W will make them sound better


----------



## stopdrpnro

i'll have to double check polarity next time i pull my panels off. thing is they sounded harsh on my text bench which does about 50w. they sounded a but better on my audison amp(what they will run on once installed) but they were still overly bright and symbalant


----------



## Alrojoca

stopdrpnro said:


> i'll have to double check polarity next time i pull my panels off. thing is they sounded harsh on my text bench which does about 50w. they sounded a but better on my audison amp(what they will run on once installed) but they were still overly bright and symbalant


Maybe setting the jumpers on the crossovers to -2db will help 

Or double check the HP crossover settings on the HU or amp, only one of HP should be used not both.


----------



## rton20s

How and where are your tweeters installed? Are they on or off axis? What settings are you currently using on your passives? (I thought I remember reading that these tweeters were designed to be used off axis.) 

As Al said, check the phase on your passive crossovers. There are simple jumpers that allow you to flip the phase on the tweeters from 0 to 180 degrees. You can also attenuate the tweeter by -3 or -6 dB with similar jumpers. I would hold off in final judgement until exhausting your options on the passive adjustments.


----------



## stopdrpnro

they are installed in the stock locations on the a pillar firing across. thing is they sounded bad on my test bench also. If i take them down -3db doesn't that just mean the harsh, symbalance will simply be at a lower level? I guess i'll try toying with the phase and attenuation and report back thanks guys.


----------



## stopdrpnro

OK since its still in the 40s I hadn't got back out to take the panels off. BUT I played around with my incredible 3 band eq and just cranked the "mid" all the way. All of a sudden everything was 50x better. My dremel work was a bit rushed so I planned to go back and seal the door enclosures with some modeling clay. I'm guessing this also tells me they want more power ?


----------



## Bayboy

Tuning issue. More power will help dynamics, not harshness


----------



## stopdrpnro

not sure what has happened but this set has really come alive in the last few days. it's my understanding that tweeters don't really benefit much for breaking in, so it must be the difference in the mids. I still have to figure out why I have to jack up the "mid" and they will soon be getting 140w per side rather than 20w but i can't imagine them sounding better than they do now. all i can say is WOW especially considering i got these brand new for less than the price of most coaxs


----------



## stopdrpnro

I feel like an idiot for my negative comment. I just want to post again about much i'm enjoying theses speakers. granted they were in a different vehicle, I like these more than my oldschool orion hccas or my boston z6s and i haven't even installed my amp yet. as previously mentioned the tweeter sharp but not harsh, the level of detail is incredible. the mid seems to be ho-hum so far but i'm sure my 20wrms and horrible dremel job on door enclosures isn't doing it justice.


----------



## westcoastweenie

Just an interesting note. If anyone was in need of the MS-52/62c's tweeters (my set only shipped with one tweeter and no one at sonic would give me the second), they can be found re-branded as the soundstream TWT.6T. And at a fantastic deal (24$/pair) considering all the hype they have gotten in this forum. SO if anyone wanted just the tweets of the component setup to try out, this might be just the ticket. And at 24 bucks i don't think you can go wrong here.


----------



## schmiddr2

I have looked at those tweeters and I'm not 100% they are the same.l How have you verified the performance is identical? Just looking at it is not 100%.


----------



## Bayboy

This was brought up before and the same conclusion came about... not the same IIRC.


----------



## westcoastweenie

I will try and get physical confermation but i am very sure. The design is identical along with all mounting hardware included. The only difference being the inline high pass because the tweeters are sold on their own and the little soundstream badge on the grill. It honestly wouldnt suprise me. Most of this stuff is chinese oem that ends up being pretty decent. I have a feeling thst some people dont want to accept that these well reviewed tweeters are in fact dirt cheap . Anyways i can confirm the sound on them when i order them in.. Unless anyone has a spare ms-52c tweeter lying aroundthat i can buy off you


----------



## mosconiac

Look pretty similar to me...but looks can be deceiving.


----------



## westcoastweenie

Haha very true. I suppose i will find out when they come in. I will keep you posted on their sound once they arrive and break in


----------



## rton20s

We've gone through all this before. In fact, I think I was the one that brought it up and even photoshopped the two Epsilon versions of the tweeter next to the JBL version. I also spoke to some folks "in the know" and even they could not confirm that they were identical. They were pretty sure they came out of the same factory and could very well be identical, but know way to know without testing. It's also a pretty good bet that these are similar to some of the older Focal designs that might have come out of the same factory. 

As has already been said though... Just because they LOOK the same, it does not mean that they are the same. T/S parameters could be completely different.


----------



## mmiller

Anyone have a MS-62C set, preferably new, that they want to part with?? Please PM me.


----------



## Donanon

A while back I bought two sets of the MS-52C at Sonic for $99 per set, IMO a pretty good deal. Over the past few days I installed a set in the front of my Wife's Corolla, this set had been playing on the floor in our spare room for several days and I re-soldered the leads right out of the box, both sets of woofer leads had cold solder joints at the push connector lugs...the solder joints are covered at the front by what looks like black epoxy which hides the front of the joint but the back can easily be seen as improperly soldered.

Anyway I got them installed in the Corolla front doors with a Kenwood KDC-X796 driving a Soundstream PN4.520D, two channels to the JBL's and two channels to a pair of Peerless 830883 6.5" in the lower front doors. I made an effort to seal the doors but it is what it is. The JBL mid-woofers have an enclosure behind them, that being deadened and damped heavy duty stainless steel bowls I bought at an Indian grocery. 

I fired it up and fiddled with levels/EQ for a while and had a listen. I was rather surprised by how good it sounded, the JBL's sound very nice in the midrange and IMO the tweeter is detailed without being harsh...excellent sound for $500 all in. Still need to do some tuning as I think the potential is there for lots more SQ. Bottom line is that the Wife is happy listening to Jazz on her new system.

Forgot to mention I have the JBL mid HP at 120, 18db and the Peerless 6.5" LP at 100, 12db. I can't hear a hole there but still have to do some measurements on the weekend. Of course none of these settings are set in stone, they just sound pretty good for right now.

T.D.


----------



## dfarr67

With these gone now and with the afore mentioned issues- what is available that comes close these days?


----------



## Bayboy

dfarr67 said:


> With these gone now and with the afore mentioned issues- what is available that comes close these days?



Honestly, I don't miss them. Despite the solder joint issues, they just didn't have enough excursion to handle a crossover point near 80hz with decent power & output down there. I bottomed them out a couple of times even on a -24db slope so I eventually raised the point to 100-120hz. Wasn't bad, but was less impressed except for the midrange clarity. That part was great. 

If I had to choose again, I would opt for the JBL P660C set for 6.5" or it's power series 5.25" variant (if that size is needed). Voicing may not be near the same, but the power series have much better bottom end. Considering that JBL has distinct voicing on most of their drivers, I would not hesitate to use that as a replacement.


----------



## Alrojoca

There are many other decent components that can be found on sale sometimes at even lower prices than the ms 62.

Image dynamics, JL, morel Maximo, hertz entry level, maybe even a Polk DXI set but an MM model would be better if found cheap.

And the NVX?


----------



## Bayboy

I'd stray away from the Polk DXI. Good output on small power, but definitely not as clean.


----------



## Donanon

The NVX look nice. The higher priced models use SB drivers. $399 for the 6.5" passive set.

I've not heard them but word is that they sound very good.

NVX XSP6KIT 6.5" X-Series Component Car Speakers System


D.


----------



## dfarr67

This will be a 15 Honda Accord and the doors and rears will be driven of off a MS-8. I just can't justify throwing big bucks into speakers so am looking for best bang for a nice set.


----------



## tyroneshoes

Id try these for budget. Sound pretty good.

Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" D-Series Component Car Speakers

While available, Id try these though cus Ive had a great experience will all esb drivers Ive used.

Brand New in The Box A Pair Zapco Iforce I 6 2 Components 6 5" Made by ESB 009028300130 | eBay

also want to try these and seems like quite the deal

PhD FB 6 1 Kit Pro Firenze 2 Way Component Speakers Set | eBay

Morel Maximo too

Also, the Soundstream reference are very impressive for the cost as well

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_79669_Soundstream-RC.6.html


----------



## dfarr67

I don't mean to hyjack the thread away from JBL, just that they are no longer available and just looking for a competitor that offers high value per dollar spent.


----------



## Bayboy

A set of Sony XS-GS1720S and their matching coaxial XS-GS1720 sound great and can be had for about 120 shipped for both sets.


----------



## Donanon

Lots of JBL 52c series available on Ebay, but if I were buying I'd grab those ZAPCO iFORCE i-6.2 for circa the same price.

jbl ms-52c | eBay


D.


----------



## tyroneshoes

yeah the sony gs are pretty good deals for the cost too


----------



## rockytophigh

I've ran those PHDs.....you'd be pressed hard to beat them IMO


----------



## dfarr67

??

Speakers - Component Sets - Crescendo Audio Factory Direct Online Store


----------



## talan7

I have JBL GTO 609Cs (3ohm) installed in my car now (passive) with the jbl MS8. They sound pretty good with 100w rms. Im moving to active with JBL PC660C woofers and Infinity Kappa 10.11t tweeters (both 2 ohm). Would this sound better than the GTOs I have now. Will active be the main improvement? What about active with the GTOs vs active with the P660 woofer and Kappa 10.11t tweeter? I'm thinking the hybrid setup would be loud enough not to go active. My MS-A1004 has been certified at well over 200w channel rms at 2 ohm.


----------



## Bayboy

talan7 said:


> I have JBL GTO 609Cs (3ohm) installed in my car now (passive) with the jbl MS8. They sound pretty good with 100w rms. Im moving to active with JBL PC660C woofers and Infinity Kappa 10.11t tweeters (both 2 ohm). Would this sound better than the GTOs I have now. Will active be the main improvement? What about active with the GTOs vs active with the P660 woofer and Kappa 10.11t tweeter? I'm thinking the hybrid setup would be loud enough not to go active. My MS-A1004 has been certified at well over 200w channel rms at 2 ohm.



Going active does not guarantee better performance unless the included passives prove inferior for the install. What active does add besides the aforementioned is the ability to mix & match drivers of your liking with less hassle of revamping passive crossover components to suit. With that, you can go active and it MAY improve things a bit, it may be an improvement to choose different drivers, but it still helps to choose well behave drivers that will COMPLIMENT each other regardless of active or passive.


----------



## Instaburn

Bayboy said:


> Going active does not guarantee better performance unless the included passives prove inferior for the install. What active does add besides the aforementioned is the ability to mix & match drivers of your liking with less hassle of revamping passive crossover components to suit. With that, you can go active and it MAY improve things a bit, it may be an improvement to choose different drivers, but it still helps to choose well behave drivers that will COMPLIMENT each other regardless of active or passive.


+1million on this insightful post.
Think about it.. we buy speakers for home theater that are bi-amp-able all the time.
There's a reason for that.
The mfg has chosen complimentary system components and is using the appropriate cross over units based on the signal capacity of the output driver.
It's a wonder why we don't see more mainstream home audio speakers with "active" setups etc.
It almost doesn't exist... at least for the everyday Joe Bloe...


----------



## Bayboy

Active for the home would be costly since it would require more amp channels. That doesn't make it inferior as much as impractical when a well designed passive is applied and drivers are on the same plane vs odd locations we have to deal with in vehicles. Aside from dealing with driver issues, in the vehicle we also have to deal with axis, relections, and so forth. Active can help there, but it has been proven that passives can be quite successful as well. 

What it all depends on is how each system is setup and gear used. If you already have the proper amount of channels & processing, then I see no reason not to use it. If you don't have, then maximize the install first before determining that passives are inferior in that particular setup. Jumping aboard the active train just because is a waste of money.


----------



## Jepalan

Bayboy said:


> Going active does not guarantee better performance unless the included passives prove inferior for the install. What active does add besides the aforementioned is the ability to mix & match drivers of your liking with less hassle of revamping passive crossover components to suit. With that, you can go active and it MAY improve things a bit, it may be an improvement to choose different drivers, but it still helps to choose well behave drivers that will COMPLIMENT each other regardless of active or passive.


^^ well said. 

"Active" also allows you to fine tune time-alignment of individual drivers and tweak *acoustic* crossover points tailored to your car for optimal blend & image (*if* you have a processor and tuning skills).


----------



## stopdrpnro

had these running off my factory amp initially and while impressed i wasn't really satisfied. went to a jbl gt804ez and was a little happier but still not there. Maybe it's the placebo effect but once i swaped to a jbl ms1004 they really came to life. so now i'm wondering what they could do with even more power. how much power are you guys running to these?? i'm considering going active which would double the power ( bc the ms amp makes it hella easy ) or getting the ms5001 for sub duty and bridging the ms 1004


----------



## SQLnovice

I'd say grab one of the 5001 for sub duty (while they are available for a good price). One MS 1004 + 5001 makes a really nice combo for a 2 way active system.


----------



## Bayboy

stopdrpnro said:


> had these running off my factory amp initially and while impressed i wasn't really satisfied. went to a jbl gt804ez and was a little happier but still not there. Maybe it's the placebo effect but once i swaped to a jbl ms1004 they really came to life. so now i'm wondering what they could do with even more power. how much power are you guys running to these?? i'm considering going active which would double the power ( bc the ms amp makes it hella easy ) or getting the ms5001 for sub duty and bridging the ms 1004




You reach diminishing returns quickly with the MS comps. They sound great, but you're not going to gain a whole lot by throwing extra power at them. They're excursion limited so the only advantage to a more powerful amp is being cleaner with better dynamic range. Should be there already with the A1004 over the others though. Adding slightly more power I had to raise the xover point which kind of negated things...


----------



## cajunner

a system that is designed in a coincidental fashion to basically all collapse in the same 2 db click of the rotary encoder, is probably dumb luck, or depending on your perspective, the bane of your existence.

a system that gets extremely loud but stays clean all the way to the stops, is a rarity but I believe most of us are chasing that particular rabbit, even if we choose not to admit it.


the wrench in the monkey is the way each link in the chain supports the rest of the system, you can have a super clean midrange with the tweeters just spitting out their last, and the bass hitting so hard you could almost see mechanical movement out of your eyeballs, I think this is how it sounds good for some of you, you know who you are...


but you can only do so much with a soft dome tweeter, and doesn't she just go soft though?

I have a set of the replacement home audio JBL Control 5 titanium tweeters, and even without a faceplate, just awesome in the semi-large format. 

comparing several brands of car audio-sized titanium domes to them, it's hard to not put them in the tweeter spot, or make a spot for them.

I did find the JBL car audio sized, P25T to be a nearer competitor than the old MB Quart and several others, so I think it's possible to say some brands are building to a specific sound, which is where I am headed with this line of thought.

I haven't heard the MS-62C but it would be interesting to note whether or not it is closer in it's timbre and tonality to the P660C or even the Gti.


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## schmiddr2

I will have my used set for sale soon. Going to raw drivers and going tweeterless.


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## Bayboy

schmiddr2 said:


> I will have my used set for sale soon. Going to raw drivers and going tweeterless.


Good Ole A.W.A... what are your findings with the set... (mere curiosity of course)?


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## schmiddr2

I think they give a pretty accurate representation of music, but even better is that they make music sound good, like the OP stated, drum tracks sound excellent, hip hop and rock really shine. I have never been sold on these for classical or various specific instruments, but I'm no musician so I'm just going by what I think it should sound like (read, I could be wrong). Vocals are good, male or female, but female sound a little better. Midbass is good for most everyone; I crossed these at 63Hz 24db with about 150W available, they do more than you would think by looking at how shallow they are, but I soon went back to 80Hz 24db. Although I only briefly used them, the crossovers seem like good quality and do a good enough job. The mounting hardware is limited but sufficient for 2 types of installs, mount them on a plane or countersink them with the cups. All in all, for under $200 I'd probably recommend them forever, except car audio companies are so scatterbrained that they design stuff then discontinue it a year later for whatever reason.


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## Bayboy

Yeah... they did everything well for me except upper bass lacked authority in my install. Still a great set though.


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## stopdrpnro

Maybe its my install (modified OEM speaker enclosures with deadner added) but I just bridged my ms1004 to one side for comparison and these took it like a champ. I bumped up my xover to [email protected] to be safe but they sound great unfortunately that means I'm spending another $170 for the matching mono block...


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## Bayboy

Careful xover & EQ work can evoke a bit more, but in your case, the enclosures are more than likely the factor. Parameter extraction & modeling of the mids a while back showed how they weren't really that great for performance under 80hz with authority. The only spec I wasn't sure of was xmax so I gave a bit of credit (5mm). I'm sure it's less than that though and of course each install/vehicle differs.


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## NonSenCe

just wondering if i should order the ms-52c set i found for sale, a brand new set. 

the store is only asking about 90usd for the set. (emptying shelves of old stuff i think)

and i wonder if they are worth the purchase for that price. or is there something better available in that 5.25" size nowdays for the same price they ask of these? 

i dont need-need them per ce at the moment. but i am thinking about getting them, "just in case", just to sit in my shelf for possible future need. i just dont have any speakers in that size (5.25") stored away. 

i could wait till actual need and then buy just any 100usd set then, but wondering if i will get any real better value speaker set then in year 2016-2017 than i could get now with the discounted ms52c.


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## pjf1fan

I own the MS52 set and I tell you for under $100, you will not likely find a better sounding set. The mids are clear, cleaner than my Hertz HSK set and the tweeters are very adjustable and super detailed. Don't miss out.


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## Jeffdachef

The sound on my ms62c set is very smooth but their tinsel leads fail quite often and their volume output isnt the best either. On another car audio forum, i've seen 3 other cases of the tinsel leads failing. These things just pump out too much lower midbass i guess.


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## djPerfectTrip

I've had these for a couple years now and have enjoyed them thoroughly. I am now looking to upgrade though just because. Any suggestions?


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## WhiteKnite

The cone on mine split from the spider after a few weeks of having them, so it seems they had some major durability issues. I did like their sound though. I sold them with my old car and I'm putting Silver Flutes and NVX XSPTWs in my new car. Anyone have experience with both the MS62's and the Silver Flutes that could compare for me? I'd like to know what to expect.


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## stickshiftchevy

Id like to know as well if anybody has heard both the the Silver Flutes and MS 62c or MS52c


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## Anamolydetected

stickshiftchevy said:


> Id like to know as well if anybody has heard both the the Silver Flutes and MS 62c or MS52c


Bump for an answer to this question.. I recently snagged a used set of ms-62c (with NIB matching tweeters), and contemplating silver flutes due to the never-ending praise they've gotten.


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## AStephan

Anamolydetected said:


> Bump for an answer to this question.. I recently snagged a used set of ms-62c (with NIB matching tweeters), and contemplating silver flutes due to the never-ending praise they've gotten.


I've used both the MS-62c, and the Silver Flute 5.5's, I think the SF mids are in a different league sound quality wise and with power handling. I ran 150 watts to each SF mid and they sounded amazing, smooth and detailed.


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## Anamolydetected

Thanks for the quick reply! Well dang.. my upgrade fever or "sidestepping" might have to continue, lol.

Sent from my SCH-R970C using Tapatalk


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## pjf1fan

Would it be a good idea to substitute the JBL MS woofer for a Silver Flute brand from Madisound? I'm looking for more power handling, more mid-bass punch.


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## Anamolydetected

pjf1fan said:


> Would it be a good idea to substitute the JBL MS woofer for a Silver Flute brand from Madisound? I'm looking for more power handling, more mid-bass punch.


That question JUST got answered in this thread ^^

Sent from my SCH-R970C using Tapatalk


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## pjf1fan

I'm looking for perhaps more than one person's opinion. I guess the low cost of Silver Flute brand speakers makes this test very feasible. I'll chime back with feedback once I get a pair of them to install.


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## Anamolydetected

pjf1fan said:


> I'm looking for perhaps more than one person's opinion. I guess the low cost of Silver Flute brand speakers makes this test very feasible. I'll chime back with feedback once I get a pair of them to install.


Oh right on! Yeah, more opinions of this particular mids swap would be cool to hear. Hope for an update from you pjf1fan. Thanks.


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