# 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab Build **Very Slow Build**



## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so some of you might have been following my civic build, which came to an end prematurely. This is the replacement build for that. 

I'm getting a new vehicle to replace the civic, which I need cause the family needs are every growing and greater space is needed. However, I'm not sure what we're getting and I'm not sure what's going to happen in it when we get it. My wife my put the cabbosh on any custom work. I won't know till I get it. 

HOWEVER, in the meantime, I've got my truck which is MINE ALL MINE! Gonna do a nice little budget system in it and start the restoration process on it. 

It's a 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab with the long bed, 4wd, and a 7.5L v8 GAS HAWG!!! Needless to say it doesn't get driven much. 

So here are my plans! 

OBJECTIVE: There is not a main goal here of either SQ or SPL. I was trying for an SQ sided build in my civic and I've given up on that. I just enjoy bass too much. HOWEVER, that being said I want a nice clean sound as well from my mids and highs. 

EQUIPMENT:

Head unit - Alpine CDA-9886 
AUX - Samsung Galaxy 10.1 Tablet - All the goodies to go with it, i.e converter box, etc.

Front Stage: 
Tweeters - Soundstream Pro Audio SST-20 Carbon Fiber Super Tweets
Mid Range - Soundstream Pro Audio SM.654P 6.5" 
Mid Bass - Soundstream Pro Audio SME-804 8"

Front Stage Power:
Soundstream Rubicon 4.600 4 channel amp - Tweeters and Mid Range
Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 2 channel amp - Mid Bass

Rear Stage:
Tweeters - Soundstream Pro Audio SST-20 Carbon Fiber Super Tweets
Mid Range - Soundstream Pro Audio SM.654P 6.5" 

Rear Stage Power:
Soundstream Rubicon 4.600 4 channel amp

Subs:
DC Audio Level 2D2 8's x 4 at a 1 ohm load

Enclosure:
Approx - 4.58 cu ft gross, tuned to 35.25hz, for a net of 3.28cu ft giving me .82 cu ft per sub. 

Sub Power: 
Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500D (1 ohm load)

Enclosure options:

In this truck the main issue with the sub enclosure is that the rear bench seat actually sits on rails (it slides front to back like a normal seat) and sits only about 3" above the floor itself. So going under the seat is not an option. 

So given that issue, I've got 3 options to go with. 

Option 1: This is the most creative. Removing the back seat and duplicating it into a sub enclosure. Making a sub enclosure the same dimensions as the seat bottom itself, then reattaching the seat back to it. Cushioning the top of it so it's still a functional seat. Subs facing forward, vent/port in the center. 

Then the amps will all go on the back wall behind the seat. 

Google Sketch Up Drawings (rough)



























Option 2: The rear bench seat gets replaced with an identical front bench seat which is a 40/20/40 split. The front center and rear center splits get removed allowing for a center box all the way through. They would face up wards with a panel to protect them. 

Then the amps still go on the back wall. 

I'll get a sketch up drawing of this sometime today. 

Option 3: Build an enclosure behind the back seat. Then port it up. 

The problem with this would be the amp situation. The amps would have nowhere to go if I did this, remember there's no room under the rear seat. 

So the custom thing to do in my opinion, would be to do a roof rack mount. 

Option 3 is not the best option in my opinion. Right now I'm looking at option 1 and if I can make that work, I'll be going in that direction. Option 2 also looks really appealing, in my head anyway.

The doors will get fiberglassed and new upholstery. Love these big doors that are, for the most part, flat. Gives you a nice canvas to work with. 

The Tablet will get a custom center console to slide in and out of. I'm going to most likely continue my work from the other build on the tablet. I'll most likely do an actuator for the opening and closing of the tablet panel. 

Head unit in the stock spot. 

So that's about it. I'll get an MS Paint drawing up in a bit to show how it's all going to go together. This is going to be a slow build so don't expect this thing to get done in the next couple months. I'll build it as I can. The part that's going to take the longest is the enclosure. Especially if I go with option 1. 

Stay tuned! More to come! I'll post up some pics of the truck soon.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's some progress teasers of option 2, the center console enclosure. Not much really to look at, but just wait. A couple more hours and you'll see it come together! 




























Enclosures measure out to 1.92 cu ft net each. That gives each sub roughly 9.6 cu ft per sub. This will go down a bit cause I'll be doing 45's and probably a double baffle on top to counter sink the subs. It's tuned to roughly 35 hz right now. Port measures 9 x 3 x 25"

Back to drawing, I'll be back in a while.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's a few of the center console. Still more to do, but that's all for now. 

Top view









Side view. You can see the sides are open so that it's not a chamber really, but more of a cover to protect the subs. Also in the center there, those sides that are open, will be walled. It's just dead space really, so I can do anything with it. I could run a battery in there, components in there, whatever I want to. I'm sure I'll figure out a way to fill it up! LOL!









These are the ends, front and rear. Same thing, open. 


















Anyone wanna guess what this is gonna be!?!?! 









I'll work on the diagram and some more drawings later.


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

more of your precise attention to detail to read about 
Subscribed to this!

What are you using for your 3d rendering?

oh and let me know how those soundstreams RUBs are. I almost went with them for my build.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

iPad holder?


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## DaCid (Oct 17, 2010)

When you get a little time you should post the pictures of the truck's dash, doors, and rear seat as they are now. That way we can see what you will be starting with.  

I think option 1 would be really cool if you can make it still work as a seat as well! I'll be watching this one.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I got some pics of the truck and taking measurements etc. Just to kind of give everyone an idea of what I'm looking at, what I have available etc. I'll start getting them up and explaining etc, in a bit. Lots of pics, lots of ideas flowing. Be back a bit later. Thanks!


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## jbrann (Mar 12, 2012)

Looks interesting! I'm diggin enclosure #2


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ya I'm starting to like it better too.


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## djjonnyb (Nov 27, 2008)

Sub'd, ...aloha bro!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Things are gonna get moving here very soon! I have some design pics to put up if anyone wants to see em! I've been updating on another forum, but forgot to do it here too. It's a different direction than I started with but it's going down this way 100% for sure! Things are ordered and bought and almost ready to go!!!

Does anyone wanna see some design pics?


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## adriangarib (Apr 2, 2012)

Do you think this box will fit a nissan frontier?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Probably not. It's 64" wide and I think that's a little wider than the bed in a frontier. I don't know honestly, I'm just guessing. But I don't think so.


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## diesel power (Sep 9, 2009)

interested in this build.i have a 96 cc that i have been wanting to do an install in.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Actually let me see if I can post up my current plan and see what you think. I'll catch everyone up to speed.


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## diesel power (Sep 9, 2009)

i was just reading through your plans,one lil tidbit of info.with the 40/20/40 seat you will lose,what little 'space' you have.the frame/base of the split mounts about half as close to the floor as the bench does,the 'room' behind the seat is also about half as much as the bench.

not sure if you knew this,just trying to help

i had the bench in the rear of mine,and replaced it with the split bench so i now have split's front and rear.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

adriangarib said:


> Do you think this box will fit a nissan frontier?


Yeah, you might be able to fit a Nissan Frontier in the "Box" of the F350. LOL

Jay


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Hey Scott,

I posted up in the Civic thread but never got an answer. I'm considering a GT 8.9 for my new ride and was wondering why you chose the breakout box you did. I did a search for "hdmi breakout box reviews" but didn't find anything.
I've seen them ranging from a little cheaper than the brand you were going to use to much more expensive.

Thanks.

Jay


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Sorry bro, I didn't get alerted! I'm about to head out to work, I'll explain a bit when I get to work. I need to make sure it's all laid out on here anyway, so that folks who didn't see that thread, understand in this thread. Thanks for reminding me, in a round about way! LOL. 

I'm also gonna catch everyone up to speed today. I was going to just post the pictures that I posted on the other forum, so that you guys can see where it's already evolved from, but I don't know if you want to see those? 

Would you rather see where it is now, sketch up designs, or the designs from where it started? I'm interested in your opinions. Let me know. I'll work on it today.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ah I see now! 




JayinMI said:


> I was just over on mp3car reading about some crazy guy with a Civic putting a Galaxy tab 10.1 in it. I was reading through it (starting on page 18) and suddenly I realized it was you! haha (Different user name over there.)
> 
> I am considering trading in the Genesis coupe I have and getting a small hatchback. I was thinking of a GT 8.9 or 10.1 in the dash and was looking at ways to get an optical signal out to my Bitone.
> 
> ...


It got skipped cause my buddy posted that long drawn out post about the suvs pros and cons etc. I answered that and meant to get back to yours and didn't have time. I forgot to come back to it. So I apologize. I'll get to it today!!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

No problem. I know you aren't doing the Civic anymore, so I just figured I'd ask again since this thread will probably have more activity than the other one.
Thanks for the reply.

Jay


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## diesel power (Sep 9, 2009)

scooter99,i would like to see all pics,info,etc.may give me some ideas.it is your thread,post away


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's the final list of equipment that's going in. 

Head unit - Pioneer DEH-80PRS
AUX - Samsung Galaxy 10.1 Tablet - All the goodies to go with it, i.e converter box, etc

Front Stage:
Tweeters - Soundstream Pro Audio SST-20 Carbon Fiber Super Tweets
Mid Range - Soundstream Pro Audio SM.654P 6.5" x 2
Mid Bass - DC Audio Lvl 2 M2 8" D2's (Sealed at .7 cu ft - either in a center console enclosure)

Front Stage Power:
Soundstream Rubicon 4.600 4 channel amp - Tweeters and Mid Range
Soundstream Rubicon 1.1600 mono amp - Mid Bass

Rear Stage:
Tweeters - Soundstream Pro Audio SST-20 Carbon Fiber Super Tweets
Mid Range - Soundstream Pro Audio SM.654P 6.5"

Rear Stage Power:
Soundstream Rubicon 4.600 4 channel amp

Subs:
DC Audio Level 4 D2 M2 12's x 4 

Enclosure:
Blow through at approx - 6.51 Net, Tuned at approx 35 hz

Sub Power:
Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500D x 2 (strapped at 2 ohm load)

Power:
H/O Alt: Undecided, either a Mike Singer 200a or a Mechman 270a (depends on money and fitment)

Main Battery - XS Power D3100
Rear Batteries - XS Power XP3000 x 2

Distribution: Home made aluminum distribution blocks, and fuse blocks.

Stinger Power, Ground, Primary, and Speaker Wire

I'll start now working on getting pics and diagrams up!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so forget all you've seen above! That's all gone and not happening! Here's where I'm at! You've seen the equipment list! Now here's the beast it's all going in! 

Everything must remain fully functional, since this is the family traveling vehicle. It's basically a camping vehicle. Paid off, so no real cost monthly aside of the cheap insurance we carry. But we are looking for a travel trailer to go with it so I needed something to pull it. 

Here she is! 


















Now I'll post a bunch of pics from the interior and measurements etc. These were alot more for my reference, but it may help some other people as well, to get an idea of what i'm doing, how it'll fit, etc. Here goes!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)




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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So that's it for the measurement pictures! Now we'll get down to some serious design and stuff to look at. No build yet, but we're working up to that. This is going to be a slow build, so try to keep that in mind! I'm excited about it, but it's going to take some serious planning as well as time to get it going and make some real progress on it. So be patient with me!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I was going to originally do a rear seat box and put 4 subs in it. I think everyone saw that already. Then I moved from that to a center console box with the same 4 subs in it. On both I think I was going to go with 8's. But nothing seemed like it was going to work out well, considering my need to be functional, and that's non negotiable. 

So I decided on this! I have this huge truck box from my time when I owned my own business and had my 2006 F350 Crew Cab! GOD I MISS THAT THING! Anyway, I still have the box that I had in it. Decided that was going to be what I use for the subs! Here it is! 









So I measured the bed of this truck and it looks like it's going to fit. Let see! 

Empty bed


















IT FITS!













































This is where i have a problem. I was looking at this and the bed rail is about 2" - 2 1/2" thick, and the box buts up against that rail. That leaves me with a cavity between the back of the box and the bed wall, about the width of the rail thickness. 









So I got to thinking about how could I get it to sit flush. Cut the actual bed rail? What? Then I realized I can't really do anything about it. I don't want to compromise the strength of the bed wall by cutting that rail, and I cant tuck the box under cause, as you can see here, the lid uses that area to hinge too. 









So I'm going to have to come up with some kind of metal frame to but the box up to, that goes to the bed wall, so when the enclosure is built and passed through the wall, the water and weather doesn't get to it. I'm still in the works on that design. I have a few ideas in my head, but nothing solid as of yet.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So you know it by now! I'm doing a blow through! Here's what I came up with first. This was to incorporate the amps and the subs and batts all in one case (the box)! 

Front, this is what you'll see through the cabin, when you fold the back seat forward:


















Top


















Back panel missing to see the guts.









Then I started messing with the amp rack design. I wanted it all in one area so that I could do it outside of the truck, and work on it as I wanted to and it was all in one nice little package. Also now that I was doing the blow through, the back wall was no longer available for the amp rack. SO I had to put them somewhere. 

I had thought about a ceiling mounted system, but as you'll see throughout this thread, I'm limited by my non ability to weld. I never learned how to weld and thus things that need to be welded I can't do at this point. SO I'm either going to have to learn or have it outsourced. 

So then I thought about putting them all in the truck box. There's plenty of room for all 5 amps, db's, and batteries! So that's what these pics show.

First layout option:


















Second layout option:


















Then someone suggested that wasn't a good idea, cause if i have to ever remove this box, I'll be 100% without sound. So I had to think of something else. The same guy showed me a thread that would work great in my situation. I saw it a long time ago and was going to use it in my Civic build, but decided not to. HERE, however, it's perfect! The idea is a rear seat amp rack, removing some of the actual seat, and putting the amps actually into the seat itself. Very custom, very sleek, and very do able! 

So I started that amp rack! 

This is where it started. I was planning to use 4 amps for mids and highs and mid bass at this point. One two channel amp per mid bass bridged (equals 2), a 4 channel for mid range and tweeters up front, and a 4 channel for the rear. I also was going off of memory on the seat and guessed about 3 inches too short on the seat back. That's why it looks so tight. 

This is as if you were looking at the back seat from the front. There is an armrest in the middle I thought I'd cut out to allow air to pass through. This also tightened things up.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then if you fold the seat down, this is what you'd see! 









The two 1.2500d's can still remain in the sub box cause they are strictly for the subs. No issues there. I still, here, have issues with space for the db's cause I need fuses and distribution to all 4 amps at this point. I figured I could just make a little rack on the floor behind the seat and put them there. So when you flip open the seat, you'll see the amps and then the dbs on the floor. All having beauty panels on them. I didn't draw that up.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then I decided to change things up with the amps, and also found out that I had 21" of height to work with on the seat back, instead of 18". So that helped spread things out. I decided to go to a single high powered amp for the mid bass vs the two 2 channels. That eliminated an amp, and as you can imagine, opened up a bunch of space. SO I developed version two of the seat back amp rack! 

I'm still deciding on how it will flow better looks wise, but these are the two designs. Basically the same but flipped. 

First one is the two 4 channel amps on the bottom with the mono amp in the center top flanked by the db's on either side. I like this one and think it's much better balanced, but I'm worried about signal issues with having the power and ground so close to the amps. Maybe I'm worried about nothing, but it is a concern none the less. Looks wise this is the one I'm leaning towards.


















Then this is version 2 option b. Same basic thing but flipped. On this one the dbs are on the bottom and wouldn't pass the higher range (meaning mid range and tweeter, plus rear fill) amps. 


















So those are the amp racks as of now. I just have to decide which one I want to go with. 

Now that we have that all established. Lets move back up front. I don't know how many people remember that I was doing a tablet install in my Civic, but I'm transferring that into this truck. So I have to find a way to do a few things up front here. I have to figure out how to get a tablet, head unit, and a mid bass enclosure in the center console. 

My first thought was to be, again, completely functional and leave the center seat alone. That way someone can sit there if need be. But the more I think about it, the less I think that's possible. I'll get back to that. 

First thing would be a base. I need to make an enclosure that has a volume of about 1.6 cu ft before displacement. This is a sealed enclosure. This would be the base of the center console, so to speak. Here's that area:


















I actually have some decent space in there to work with. I worked up the measurements, including angles, and got it onto Torres calculator, and I came up with 1.61 cu ft sealed, and 1.41 cu ft after displacement! That' gives me my .7 cu ft per driver sealed. Now this, of course, is if I decide to leave that center seat in there. It can be removed. I still have to sketch up a design, but that'll have to come in later. 

Onto the dash. I want this to look good, custom, but not look off. I got out my tablet and started looking at designs in my head. Taking into account the center enclosure, base console. Here is the dash itself.









Close up of the dash









Started playing with the tablet. 

First I thought low on the dash, move the HVAC, and leave the head unit where it was.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I looked at it for a minute and I thought, it looks ok but not good enough! So I moved on! 

I came up with this! Remove the head unit, remove the HVAC and the tablet goes right in there. Mold it to the dash! The top piece that surrounds the head unit comes off, as does the piece that surrounds the HVAC controls. I'll make it so it folds out and then it will seem as though it's just in the dash, not slid in. No slit to see where it slides in. 


















Looking a little further into it, I came up with only one problem really. This vent!









But after looking at it some more, and you can see it in the first picture there, I can really either just move the vent, or eliminate it all together. You can see there's a vent on the left side of where the tablet would sit. Then, not pictured, there's a vent on the right side of the glove box. SO I could eliminate it and just fill it in. 

Or the other option would be to move the vent up above the silver line there, in the piece that's removable, and re route the ducting. Then I'd also have to do the same to the other vent as well so it would look uniform. 

The last option is to some how incorporate it into the center console. 

As far as the head unit and HVAC controls, I have some options. The head unit will most likely just go below the tablet in the center console. My only concern about that is vibration from the mid bass. I'm sure that's something I'll work out though. The other issue is the HVAC controls. 

If I do go ahead and remove the center seat and do a completely new center console to replace it with, then I'll need a center storage area. I'm thinking I'll most likely put them there, either in the face of it, or inside of it. I'll have to wait and see. I have no idea what they look like behind them, or anything. I may be forced to leave them where they are. Ceiling mounting is an option as well.

Also what removing the center seat does for me, is gives me a place to put my components for the tablet install. I have a converter and other stuff to put in there to make it work with everything. I'll get to that in a minute. 

I'm gonna work on those console designs some more! Again, more sketch up work to be done! 

Now we'll move to the last part! This is the center seat back, also used as the center console storage area and holes posing as cup holders! Although these pieces of crap won't hold a cup of coffee barely let alone a big cup of some sort! I'm not sure who was on the design committee but they should've lost their jobs over this one! Waste of space.......end rant!!

So here it is from the front, folded up! You've seen it folded down. 









Then here it is from the back, folded up again. What do you think would possibly fit in there that I've not gone over yet!?!














Anyone?











Need a hint?










Recall I have a tablet with movie capability and we're talking about long travel time! 











Here you go!



10" HDMI Monitor baby!!









Now I can run movies up front on the tablet and the kids can see them in the back with no problems. Won't impede sight out of the back window/rear view mirror using a flip down, and I don't have to cut up the seats for headrest monitors. 

Again, more sketch up drawings to do! I'm gonna be busy!!!

That's really all I've got on the design so far. I have lots of computer time to put in drawing it up, and figuring things out. I love sketch up for the fact that you can use your measurements and find out if it's gonna fit or not. This is a huge help for decision making! 

So I'm got some things to do still. The doors are pretty simple I think, considering their flat canvas! There will be two 6.5's in the fronts for mid range, and a super tweet as well. In the rear doors, I'll do one 6.5 and super tweet. The subs themselves will handle mid bass, and I think it will be fine coming from the front anyway.

So that's about it. I'll be back with more later when I get a chance to work on it! 

I did get some stuff in already, and all my gear is ordered with exception of the sub amps, and power stuff. I need to for sure get a battery for the front for when the mids and highs stuff is done. But I still need an alternator, and batteries for the back as well. So for the most part things are here, and I certainly have enough to get started on working. So that will all start soon! 

Here's the newest arrival in shipment:




































These things are beastly. Heavy and seem to be well built! I can't wait to get them glassed in the doors and hear em! 

I already have my tablet as you saw. The head unit is on it's way. I ordered another pair of those 6.5's for the rear doors, all the tweets are on their way, the amps shipped yesterday, and the head unit should be here soon as well! As more comes in, I'll be posting those up! Same with the drawings! 

ALOT more to come soon!


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## diesel power (Sep 9, 2009)

all i can say is,dayyuuum.looks pretty interesting

the hvac controls are fairly simple.if i remember,6 power wires,4 for lighting 2 for blower motor.6 vaccum lines for mode selector switch.you can extend all the lines


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Great! That's awesome news! I was hoping for no vacuum lines or anything like that! Thanks! 

Tablet tutorial coming at you right now! 

*PLEASE HOLD ALL COMMENTS FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES WHILE I GET THIS POSTED SO IT'S ALL TOGETHER! THANK YOU! *


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so............I GOT A HUGE DELIVERY TODAY!!! Actually was just about to leave for lunch when I got called in for a rush job on a file here at work! While I was doing that, I got an intercom saying I've got a huge delivery that is heavy and could i come get it! Well right now it's Christmas in April, so I said HELLYA!! 

This is what I got!










Now before I go any further, I must warn you........................if you're easily aroused, you should grab a tissue and move back away from your computer keyboard! This could get messy!!!! 























































BUT WAIT.............THERE'S MORE!!!!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

AND LOOK, HE HAS 3 MORE FRIENDS!!!!!!









So then I finally get to go home for lunch! Went to check on my dog cause this is the first week she's home in the back yard alone.........which sux by the way cause she hates it. But anyway, I drive up to another package! Check this bish out!!!










YA BABY!!!


















Look at dat ass!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So on the tablet install. I've been asked how I chose my converter, by a couple of people. I kind of touched on it in my civic build, but since that's done and this has started I'll go over it again here. 

The tablet is the wifi version of the Samsung Galaxy 10.1. It, like all the others now seems like, is very similar to the Ipad. "Why didn't you just go ipad instead of having to do all this figuring on a new unit"? I've been asked this about 1000 times, not exaggerating! 

I'm not a "go with the grain" type of guy! I don't go out and try something cause it's the "rage" or the "newest greatest" thing. In my believe, apple has cornered the market, and that's great, but I don't want an i anything for that very reason! I like the under dog, I like to experience other things rather than what "everyone else has"! So thus I went with the Galaxy cause everyone and their mother is putting an Ipad in their car! But do a google search and you'll find only a handful of Galaxy's going in. 

So I decided I'd put together a component system for it and do it on my own with no real help. I've gotten some from MP3.com and they've been a great help as well as other people here and other sites. That's where I've gotten answers about things I've found and whether it would work or not without spending thousands of dollars just trying things out. 

So when I first started this project I was trying not to do it with a head unit. I wanted the tablet to be the head unit so to speak. I didn't want it running through a separate unit into the system. When I started it I was also using an Audison Bit One Processor as well so I had a way to achieve my volume control other than the buttons on the tablet itself. 

Now I'm not using that, I'm using a Pioneer DEH-80PRS to operate my system, and it has a processor built into it. I'll go over a diagram on how I'm wiring the system up another time. It's kind of complicated. 

So lets go over the tablet install! I'm actually going to cheat a little bit and just quote the tutorial I posted on another site! This will make things a lot easier on me! 

So I did two attempts with trying to get my goals met. The first one ended up with some good results with the exception of the fact that I needed video out and that DID NOT work. I'm not going to go through all that, but Ill skip to the second version and tie in the non monitor version. 

Here we go. 

Things needed:

Tablet - Samsung Galaxy 10.1 
7" Multimedia Docking Station with HDMI output
10" Docking station
Mini HDMI to HDMI adaptor
HDMI Cable
Samsung Car Charger
Octava 1 x 2 HDMI Splitter and Distribution Amplifier
OPUS Point Of Load Module x 2 or a bigger one instead of multiple like the Mini Box M2-ATX-b
HDMI compatable head rest monitors x 2

The Dock Swap:
First you're going to take your docking stations and swap the cradles for them. The 7" dock has the HDMI port on it, and that's what we're looking for. So the cradels on these both, just snap off. Snap them off, and then swapt them for each other. The 10" cradle goes on the dock with the HDMI port now. Like so:





































As you can see here one has the HDMI Port and the other doesn't. 



























Next you're gonna need your Mini HDMI to HDMI adaptor.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now that I did that I took it to my nearest HDMI tv to make sure it would work. 



Now that we have the docks switched we can get to the actually install (or bench test in this case) procedure. 

Now then lets get our OPUS Point Of Load module hooked up cause we need power to our converter. You're also going to need power to your car charger if you don't want it to be in your power point all the time, which I don't cause it's just unsightly. *(Now in this new install, I'm no longer using this, I've had a power point made up for me to put all my components onto one power point. But this is still a good module to use if you're just doing a basic set up as we're doing in this tutorial.)*










Now I tried to do this with the usb cable for the tablet, but the tablet did not register it as a compatable cable when I clipped off the usb cable portion. So if someone knows about this I'm all ears. If we could get this to work, you'll only need an extra 30pin usb cable for this, but it has to be samsung compatable. *(For this I think I've found the solution which is to connect the data cables, I just haven't tried it yet.)*



















Here's before I put it in the dock, notice the battery is at 34%:









And then here it is docked. Notice the red thunderbolt through the battery:









Now according to this site: Pinouts.ru/slots/USB_pinout.shtml these are the wire colors and codes. Not sure but I think if I take the two center wires (2 and 3 Data - and Data + white and green) and splice them, it should work. I just haven't tried it yet. So if anyone can confirm this, I'd appreciate it. Then we can change this up. 

*Ok so things switch up a little bit here cause I've kind of combined version one, which was that previous to this, and version two to complete the bench test and tutorial etc. If you have questions feel free to ask! *

So to start off here's all the components ready to be set up. 









Stinger SPP1200 Battery (this will be changed out, I'm going to be using an XS Power D3100 in the set up now)









Audison BIt One for processing, Hertz HDP5 (in the picture representing amps)









Samsung Galaxy 10.1, the new custom mount,


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hertz Components (for the bench test only, these are going to be sold, no longer using rear fill)









Finally, a Samsung HDMI capable monitor, Octava 1x2 HDMI Distribution Amplifier, KnuKonceptz HDMI cable, KnuKonceptz Optical Cable.









Here's my stockpile of wire!









Next I got it all hooked up and ready to go. 

First up I connected a distribution block with the battery. I used this cause of the different sizes of wire and cable, and I had it on hand. Ran the power and ground to the barrier strip to distribute the power (yellow), ground (black), and create an ignition source (green) as well as sent an 8ga cable from the battery to the amp. Got the processor hooked up as well. In the fore ground you can see my "ignition source" or switch. The power constant was ran into the switch, then out of the switch creating an ignition source. Pretty simple. 









Turn on the ignition or in this case flip of the switch (lit up blue), and everything powers on. Audison Logo is lit blue, Hertz Logo on the amp is lit up orange. 









Now that we know those work, we'll go to the next step. We need to hook up all the signals. Let's go through that. This is kind of running backwards from the destination to the main source, but you'll get the gist of it. 

Starting at the Processor:









We have the input from the main source, in this case the main source is the tablet, however we are getting the signal distributed and analyzed by the converter (HDMI distribution amplifier). So I have the RCA's for this going into the channel 1 & 2 input on the processor. This will be my "main" source input. The secondary input will be the Optical input. I did not have the processor set up for the optical input previously and I didn't have time to get it set up for that now, so I left that out. However, you can see on the right hand side in this picture, the optical cable will plug into the port second from the end where it says "optical" and is light grey in color. 









Here you see the power, ground, and ignition source for the bit one. On the right of that is where the USB cable plugs in for the computer to run your set up. 









Then here we have the outputs from the processor. I chose to use channels 3 and 4 for this application because from the previous set up, those were my mid range channels and for this it was the best application. These RCA's go out to the amplifiers. On the left side you see the phone cord looking wire, that is for the Bit One DRC or Digital Remote Control. That is what controls volume etc from the front of the car.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

As stated before I ran power from the battery straight to the amp, then you also see the green remote wire. Also, pretty self explanatory, you see the speaker wires. 


















Here you see the RCA's from the outputs of the processor into the amplifier.









Now that we've covered that side of things, lets take a look at the other half of life in this set up! 

Here you see the RCA's that are running from the Distribution Amp to the processor. This is the Analog signal from the Distribution Amplifier which will be converted from the HDMI signal from the tablet. 









Getting it all hooked up, this is how the Distribution Amplifier works, or looks. Getting the signal from the tablet, it goes into the D.A. via the HDMI output, which is the second HDMI cable from the left (black). It then takes that signal, and distributes it (hence the name) into several different signals, analog audio, digital audio, and video. This was the major kink in this whole set up was getting the best signal out of the tablet and into the system. The HDMI figured in to be the best for my application simply because it was the only way I could get a video signal from the tablet. 

So for the Audio portion, it goes out via the RCA's into the processor, as well as optical. They are both active all the time. You'll see that in a few minutes. 

For Video there are two ports. I was originally going to install two head rest monitors in the car, but since that time my daughters got their own tablets and no longer seem to need the dual monitors back there. I have different "custom" plans for that, but I won't go into those now. Anyway, so I decided to only use one monitor for back there so that I can still have the ability for them to have video from the main source in back. This is in fact a mirrored monitor source as you will see later. So the HDMI Cable to the left (blue) is the video out and the open port is the second video out, should I decide to go with dual monitors anyway. 

The cable out on the far left is the power source. This is what will eventually have the 12v source which is converted down to 5v via my regulator which is being finalized now. 









Now, again, I have this particular one, because I have headrest monitors. The NON MONITOR set up, or a set up where you don't need a monitor, is the same thing, but it's using this converter instead, which is a single HDMI out but everything else is the same. You can see the difference.









Here you can see the whole set up pretty much ready to go. The tablet in front, the monitor is leaning against the box, and those simply get plugged into the HDMI ports, or the tablet into the dock. 









So now we'll turn it all on, and i'll show you the monitors etc. It all works! 

Ignition on, 









Processor on, here's the lit up DRC









Slide the tablet into the dock


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The distribution amplifier is auto on. The black button on the right hand side is the power button, however it senses power and turns on automatically. If you want to turn it off, you'd have to press that button to turn it off, or turn off the car/ignition/power source. To turn back on, you can either press the button, or turn the car/ignition/power source back on. Simple. Also has a pretty blue light! LOL So that's on









Turning the monitor on.









Here's where you see the mirrored image on the monitor. I have to adjust color etc, but you can plainly see it works! 









Here's a video I played off of Netflix, I think it was a Jeff Dunnam video. But the point is you can see it working on both screens. I don't have any videos downloaded onto the actual media center on the tablet, so I don't know if this will work the same way or not, but I like this alot better, being able to see up front on the tablet as well as on the monitor. I'll be downloading a video soon to see if it will work that way. 









I decided to see what it does with the volume by testing it with the DD1. I downloaded the DD1 cd onto the tablet for this reason alone. It all works great. So I got it all set up and as you'll see, it's at max volume and no clipping! SICK!! 

DD1 powered on and hooked up ready to go.









Track 1 - according to the DD1 instructions for headunit testing.









Volume all the way Maxed out!









NO CLIPPING!!









Here's a little pandora radio for you, coming from the tablet as well as the monitor.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And finally, a picture of the lit up optical cable! 









So now all that's left with this is to get some music and videos downloaded onto the media hub of the tablet and test that way and see how that works with the tablet being on or turning the screen off on only getting the video out of the rear monitor. 

Also I have to get the power source finalized and built so I know what I'm working with on size etc. But aside of that, everything is done and works. 

I previously mentioned that I had an issue with the dock. The problem is, and you'll hear me talk about this in the video when I get it up, but the dock is sitting about 1/16 - 1/8" too low and the connection is almost not touching and I had an issue with that in the video, where the signal doesn't go through. But that's an easy fix at the moment since I'm still getting the dock and the dash worked on. Aside of that it's working flawlessly and I could not be happier with the set up! 

I also was going to do a separate write up on the other cheaper module, or distribution amp, and I tried it and got the same results where the signal was not coming through, not even just audio. SO, I scrapped that one. I'm sure you can try others but I'm not going to take the time or money at this point to do so. 

So there's the tablet bench test version 2, a successful one! 

I'd be happy to hear any comments or suggestions if you have any. Otherwise, thanks for tuning in and happy building!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

There it is! That's all for today I think! I have a few things to do at work here, and I'm going home. Softball tonight if we don't get rained out! But I'll work on some more diagrams soon! Thanks for tuning in!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Wow!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's a little driver porn for you guys! 










Little comparison









12 / 8 / 6.5









12 / 8


















8 / 6.5 size difference much!?! LOL









That is all!

Ok so btw, real quick, remember yesterday or whenever it was when I said those 6.5's were beastly drivers? I retract that statement! Those 8's are unreal how heavy and solid they are. Picking those up and then picking up the 6.5's, I felt like I was picking up a small paper weight! So crazy!! I can't wait to get all this stuff going!


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## danno14 (Sep 1, 2009)

Cannot figure out why you are wasting your time doing all this in a refrigerator white 94 ford......











After all, MINE is a white 97!
Blatant smarta55 here, in for the ride. 
Hell of an install so far- truly inpressive!


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## Z-Roc (Mar 22, 2012)

looks like awesome project you got there


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks guys! I can't wait to get it started! I'm gonna get started on the console and dash designs today. Hopefully that will be the beginning stages of the install. I have some questions and thoughts for everyone. I'm playing some stuff out in my head so I'm going to think on it before I ask away. I'll be back in a minute!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I'm drawing up a little diagram in MS Paint right now. I'm trying to figure out how to run all the signal on the system. There are a few things I'm looking at but the first thought is to utilize the processing on the Pioneer unit. I can run the front stage off of that completely. I don't think I need that much processing on the rear stage, I'll just tune that in and it should be fine. But then there's the sub stage. 

So I was thinking this off the Pioneer unit:

Front/tweeter: To Tweeters on the 4.600 channels 1 & 2
Rear/Mid: To Mid Range (6.5's) on 4.600 channels 3 & 4
Sub/Mid Bass: To Mid Bass (8's) on 1.1600

Then to get the rest of the signal to the 1.2500's and the rear 4.600 is where I'm a little stumped. But I this is what I was thinking. Couple of options:

Option 1: Create a project box with an RCA Input and dual RCA outputs. The input will come from the 1.1600 Pass Thru, as a full range signal. Then one set of outputs will go into the 4.600 and they will cross over on the amps crossover settings. Then the second set of outputs will go to the 1.2500 which will strap to the second one. Simple solution. The 1.2500's will adjust with the volume knob mounted up front, and tune by the crossover settings on the amps. 

Option 2: Get a crossover and/or equalizer for the rear stage and sub stage. I was looking at Audio Controls stuff. The problem I'm finding right now, is that I can't see whether or not the 1.1600 output is a full range output or not. I can't imagine it not being one, but you just never know. I found the Epic 160, but can't really figure out what it does. I know it's discontinued, but I'm sure I could find one if it's really gonna benefit me. Suggestions on this?

I'm really thinking option 1 is the easiest way to go. What do you all think? What I would like is to somehow be able to turn down the rear stage if I want to. An equalizer with a volume knob would allow me the ability to do that. I guess I'm just looking for suggestions on this right now. I don't want a big expensive processor, that's why I sold the one I had. I'd like to do this as budget like as possible. 

What about coming from the head unit? I'm planning to use it as a processor, but if I were to piggyback, if I can, off an output, should i go from the mid range output and then maybe into an eq or crossover and that takes care of my rear and sub, vs going through another amps pass thru? 

Batteries:

Before I had decided to remove my batteries from the box and put them under the cab of the truck in their own box or boxes. But the more I think about this, the more I'm thinking that those batteries are going to be for the sub amps anyway right? So why not have them in the truck box like before and have them able to be disconnected to remove with the box. I'm planning to put a D3100 in the front, and I can run power from there to the db's that will operate the mids and highs amps. So then those don't get disconnected if I ever have to take the box out. 

What do you guys think about those things? I'm doing a diagram for option 1 of the wiring now. Be back with that a little later.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I think I've got it! Here's the diagram, not sure if it's big enough or not, I can't figure out how to blow it up! 










If you can't see it, I'll run it down for you. Here's the way it goes! 

From the Pioneer Head Unit:

Front/tweeter: To Tweeters on the 4.600 channels 1 & 2
Rear/Mid: To Mid Range (6.5's) on 4.600 channels 3 & 4
Sub/Mid Bass: To Mid Bass (8's) on 1.1600

Signal then comes out of the 1.1600 pre out rca's into an Audio Control 6XS 6 Channel Electronic Crossover into the "Front" channels or in 2 channel mode.

From the 6XS the outputs look like this:

"Front Highpass Output" to the rear tweeters on the 4.600 channels 1 & 2
"Front Lowpass Output" to the rear mid bass on the 4.600 channels 3 & 4
"Subwoofer Output" to the Subs on the 2 - 1.2500D's

Now, control. I obviously won't be able to control the rear stage like I was hoping to, but that's the way things go sometimes. I can, however, control the subs from the 6XS, or the amp volume control knob directly. I'm not sure which is best. Anyone have any input on this?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so good news and bad news! I got my 2 Rubicon 4.600's in today! WOOHOO! But I'm pissed! I understood that they were manufacture refurbished, but here is what the description says, if you've never read it:

_"Manufacturer Refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specification and is in *excellent condition*. This item may or may not be in the original packaging."
_
So I opened them up and took a look and they're all messed up. They've got dings and scratches all over them, scuffs, dirt marks (like finger prints), and one of them even has the power led missing from it. Needless to say I'm pissed! I've emailed them already to see what they're going to do. 

Here are some pics:









































































I'll let everyone know what happens!


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## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

where did u order them from? amazon has them NEW for DIRT DIRT DIRT cheap.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Scooter, are these from the place that we were talking about, yesterday?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

DLO13 said:


> where did u order them from? amazon has them NEW for DIRT DIRT DIRT cheap.


Ebay, of course. The seller is being cool. I'm waiting on a response but last option was full refund, in which case I'll be buying from the company Martin is talking about below.



IBcivic said:


> Scooter, are these from the place that we were talking about, yesterday?


No I got it from someone else, stupid me trying to save a few bucks! I've been talking with them, cause I bought the 1.1600 from them, and their gonna have more in by monday. They only have one in stock right now, but when they get the other ones in he'll let me know. 

Still don't have the 1.2500's ordered yet either, which isn't gonna be real soon I'm not thinking. So maybe I'll get them from him as well if he carries them, and I don't get a better deal. I have a guy on another forum who carries some soundstream stuff, mainly big mono amps, and he may be able to get them for $300.00 which is almost 40.00 less than I've found so far. 

So we'll have to wait and see what happens. I should know by tomorrow what I"m doing.


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## Midwestrider (Aug 10, 2007)

Scooter, nice build here. Curious to see the finished sub/tool box setup.


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## Diezel10 (Dec 22, 2010)

Dude....I have been waiting and waiting on who would get bold and perform this toolbox setup...I have been waiting for ever..my plan is to house 4-15's in a tool box enclosure....Awesome build by the way..


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Midwestrider said:


> Scooter, nice build here. Curious to see the finished sub/tool box setup.


Ya me too! I'm a little nervous about it, but I'm excited as well! 



Diezel10 said:


> Dude....I have been waiting and waiting on who would get bold and perform this toolbox setup...I have been waiting for ever..my plan is to house 4-15's in a tool box enclosure....Awesome build by the way..


Ya know, I was gonna go 4 - 15's but I was having issues with fitment cause of the angles on the box bottom corners. There's 64" of width, and only 18" of height. That's the entire box. So I had to come in about an inch on the sides and bottom to make it work right. Then the subs are about 15 3/4" outer diameter. That's 63" without a port. So 15's wouldn't really work, not 4 of them anyway. I guess I could've done three, but I didn't want to have to deal with the numbers on the impedance for the amps. Maybe on another build I'll do it. We'll see how this one turns out first and how I like it. Maybe down the road, 15's. 

Glad I could help end your wait! Hopefully I can get the box done soon!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's the latest on the amplifier saga! They're sending me a return label, and giving me a full refund. So I'll happily be going to the other company as soon as those funds hit my account.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok, so I took half the day off to go home and take care of some stuff there. HOWEVER, right before I left, I got a little package! It was heavy, and I thought it was too small to be an amplifier! So what the hell could it be???










Let's open her up and see! 

WOOOOOOWWWWWWWW! For the weight I could not honestly believe this is what was in there! Really! 









These are bestial tweeter! Let's check em out!









Little lacking in packaging but they weren't moving upon even shaking the box. 

I got myself a nice diagram on what to use for components on a crossover if I wanted to make one.









Also included is a cap.









It's certainly better looking in person that on line! These are sweet looking! 


















So I decided to put em up against what they're going in the doors with. I was shocked. These are just as heavy if not heavier, than the 6 1/2" mid ranges. No bull! 









Size comparison!









So needless to say, I'm very impressed with these! If they sound as good as they're built, these are gonna kill the highs! I can't wait! Gonna really have to think about the doors now. Cause I had no real idea they were so large! Not a problem, cause after moving the 8's to the center console, there's gonna be plenty of room! 

I also busted out the Pioneer DEH-80PRS, and the tablet. I had the thought that maybe, even if I'm not running the tablet off the usb, that the usb connection on the PRS might charge the tablet. Well, unfortunately, I get the red "x" on the battery on the tablet so that means no charging! Bummer! But that's ok, cause I still have that power converter that was designed for me, and I'll just continue to plan on using that! 

That's all for today!


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## Diezel10 (Dec 22, 2010)

Damn.....That's a Huge...B**ch!!!!!......looking forward to your door pods.....


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## Diezel10 (Dec 22, 2010)

Any Progress....I have been following this at work and at home....


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

No not yet. I'm just kind of collecting equipment right now. There's a slim slim chance I'll be able to start mocking things up tomorrow on the console, but it's extremely slim. But I promise I'll post things up as soon as some progress is able to be made. 

1.1600 should be here monday, and I'm hoping to send back the two 4.600's on monday as well.

I also got the alerts from my credit card companies that the payments went through. So I may just buy those new 4.600's now, and then repay the cards when the refund goes through. I have to decide on that still. 

More to come, hopefully soon!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok guys! Little update! Got my Rubicon 1.1600D today! She's purrrrrrdy! Right out of the box brand new! The way it should be! Check out the pics! As I've said before, you may wanna back away from your computer so you don't get it messy! Just a forewarning! Here we go!!



















Ok back up, here she is!!!!









Oh ya money shot!



























And a little goodie that came with it! 









That's pretty much it for today! I think I've got all I'm gonna get at the moment. Oh no wait, I've got another pair of 6.5's coming in this week. Still waiting to hear on whether or not the same company who sold me the 1.1600 has a pair of the 4.600's. 

So more coming soon!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Little update, I got my last pair of the 6.5" mid ranges today. So I have all the drivers for the system now! Didn't take pics, they're the same exact set as the fronts. 

However, I am right now, finally eating lunch and making some center console designs! We'll see how long it takes me to get these done.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Here she is!



WOW!!!! That's some old skool goodness:laugh:..what happened to the new SUV, no coin

Good luck with your build

GIT-R-DONE!!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok guys, I'm about 90% done with the center console designs. I'm having trouble with some of the placement, so I've made a couple options and we'll see what you guys think. Tomorrow i'll be posting all the designs for the console. Stay tuned!


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## Diezel10 (Dec 22, 2010)

Nice., Looking forward to this......


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you Mods for taking care of that. 

I've got the design pics uploaded, but I have to do some actual work stuff so I'll probably not be able to post them for a little bit. But I'll get it sometime today. Promise!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok, Lunch time! Here we go! 

So first off, let me just explain, that the reason I take the pictures with the measurements is for this purpose. I can look at those pictures, and get my references on how to do the designs and mock ups on sketch up. Also, even though there's some chatter between, you guys could go back and look at them as well. 

So this isn't much, but it's the base of the area I have to work with. It goes on the floor in the place of the center console seat, and the dash. There is a stick shifter there, which is what the cut out is for on the design, but the stick itself is for the 4WD. 









This shows the angle of the floor going up towards the dash.









Now here is the mid bass enclosure. Remember this will house the 2 DC Audio LVL 2 8's. This enclosure is right at .81cu ft sealed, and is divided so each side is it's own chamber. 









Where you would look if you sat on the dash LOL









Rear Seat Driver Side View









Here's where it gets real, I think! What you're seeing here is a 10" HD monitor for the back seat! This is a straight on view of it! 


















Kind of shows the angle in this pic, although it's not easy to really tell an angle till you've got it in the vehicle. But it's about there, where it's going to be.









Shhhhhhh, don't look now but it's starting to look like a center console! HEY I SAID DON'T LOOK! 





Ok you can look now. Here is the storage compartment, yes I was able to even put one in here with all the stuff going in. This compartment is about 5.5" deep and 13" long. Really good storage area. Got cup holders up front that WON'T BE A DAMN INCH DEEP (EFFING IDIOTS WHO DESIGNED THESE THINGS). Then in the center there will be a little blank area, so to speak, for change and crap like that. 

Oh apparently when I did the last save, I didn't save it with the lid on it. So you'll see that in a minute.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now is where we get serious. We have some serious decisions to make here! I say WE cause WE're all in this together! Yes I'm building it, but you guys are riding right along with me! So let's figure this out! 

Here's the basic blank slate of the dash. 









From the rear seat









Now let's talk options. 

*OPTION 1:*

Now I wasn't going to do this option, but I thought why not design it anyway and see how it looks. To me, It's not bad. Lays out well I think and simplifies the install. Leaves the head unit and the HVAC controls in their original position. Then also the tablet is really more down and out of sight. Sort of! Not bad! 



























*OPTION 2:*

This option is a bit more custom. HVAC controls go out of the dash as well as the head unit, and are both replaced by a custom mount and the tablet. This tablet will be able to actuate out and remove and when ready to go, slide in and actuate in. 

Down below it, is where the Head unit will re locate to. It'll center on the console, and stay centered with the tablet. Give it the "all electronic" look. The head unit will be at a bit of an angle, but the instructions say it's good up to a 60 degree angle. We're looking at about 20 here. So I think it will be just fine. It'll be easy to see as well I think. 

The HVAC controls will relocate to a spot next to the steering wheel. It's a cubby now, but really I don't ever use is, and with everything else being hacked up, it won't be an issue to do it here as well. 

Pics:



























Now the pros and cons with options 1 and 2. 

Pros in option 1 are just simplification. No hacking up the dash, things are built outside of the vehicle and are really a one piece thing. 

Cons in option 1 are these. I'm not looking for simplified anything. I don't mind getting custom, as you all well know. But the main issue is this. The tablet down there becomes a problem because I want it to look built in while it's in the dock. I don't want to have it just sitting in there. So the issue becomes, how do I get it out of there. I'd have to make a frame and actuate the whole thing so it goes from about a 20 degree angle, to a vertical location to get the tablet to slide out, due to the angle of the dash and how far it sticks out. Really that's the only and main issue. 

Pros in option 2: More custom look, nicer on the eyes, and puts the electronics in one place and looks more balanced. 

Cons in option 2: There really aren't any. The only con that I can think of is the same with option 1, which I've not gotten too yet. I'll do that now. 

Same Con for both option 1 and 2 - I'm planning to install a reverse camera in this beast. It's a pain to back up sometimes, and frankly if I'm towing it would be nice to see the hook up. But, I can't seem to find a way to connect to my tablet for the camera, or it's a pain and expensive to do, so I thought about this. 

I bought a 7" HDMI screen for the headrests in the last build. Using a bigger screen in back, I don't need it anymore. But if I were to use it for this camera it would be perfect. I could also connect it and if I get a movie on the tablet that I can't watch from the tablet while in HDMI mode, I can have it routed to the monitor. Killing two birds with one stone. 

In these two applications I don't really have any where to put the monitor. I thought about putting it in the ceiling, above the rear view mirror, but I'm not sure if it will fit there. It would have to be custom of course but I'm not scared of that. So it is an option. 

Let's move on to the final option!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

This is the last option I came up with and frankly I like it the best! 

*OPTION 3:*

It's pretty much a modified version of Option 2. The head unit slides over, and the monitor goes on the passenger side right next to it. BADA BING!! 




























If you look at the second picture here, it just shows, it looks balanced even though there are so many pieces in there. I like it alot. 

I thought of a couple other options.

1) moving the monitor to center, and the head unit below it - Just didn't work for me. The head unit is gonna be real far down and not sure how it would work. 

2) moving the monitor to center, moving the HVAC controls to the ceiling or storage area, and the head unit to the cubby area where the HVAC controls are looking to go now. 

The cubby next to the steering wheel, here:









Don't really like the flow of that, and I think the head unit is too far down and out of the way. I think it wouldn't flow very well. 

3) HVAC controls stay in that cubby, and the head unit goes to the ceiling above the rear view mirror. Big custom job there! 

So there it is. That's what's up for debate! The sides will get a trim piece that will be curvy. I just wasn't going to d it now on sketch up. I'll do it later if I have more time. But try and use your imagination for it. 

So I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on this. Weigh in on it! Thanks for tuning in! We're getting closer to a start on this! This is really the last of the design phase. When I get this decided, I'll be only waiting on time!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

*#3! hands down!*


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> So I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on this. Weigh in on it! Thanks for tuning in!!


You don't want it to look like a speaker box stuck between two seats....because that's kinda what i'm seeing from the drawings

Why the degrade in equipment....Hertz to Soundstream


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

IBcivic said:


> *#3! hands down!*


Hey IBcivic...i like your new avatar....looks like you had some work done....nice


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

trojan fan said:


> You don't want it to look like a speaker box stuck between two seats....because that's kinda what i'm seeing from the drawings
> 
> Why the degrade in equipment....Hertz to Soundstream


Ya I should've said that, I do plan for this to be more rounded, but because of my limited sketch up skills, it would've been a huge pain to do that. But also, the trim panels on the outside, that I mentioned earlier, are going to take care of a lot of that as well. 

Why the downgrade........well, I wasn't going to put that much high end equipment in my truck which I don't drive daily and would enjoy daily. Still not sure what we're getting yet as far as a new daily vehicle, so until then I'm not planning anything for that. We're not in any rush to do it, I still have a few things to do to get my civic ready to sell. So until that sells and we know how much we have to work with for a down payment, we won't know what we're getting. 

So i decided that I would go with a louder bassier system, DC Audio is a great driver company, and I couldn't afford their amps even with selling the stuff I have, and pay off credit cards as I did, and after reading reviews etc, I found that the soundstream amps were great budget amps and they look good too. 

Thus my decision. 

When we do get the new vehicle, whatever the hell that may be, then I'll figure out what I'll do with it. Until then my main focus is this build.


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## justfuz (Aug 28, 2008)

Another con for 1 & 3, what if you have to stop suddenly? Any beverages have the chance to spill/splash forward and get all over the monitors.

I like opt 2 most for this reason but thing 3 would really be slick.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

cup holders will be deep, like 3 to 4 inches deep. If I have to stop suddenly, that won't be an issue. Besides, I don't use them much, but when I do most everything has a lid on it. I don't think it'll be an issue. 

HOWEVER, that being said, I think I've come up with another way! An option 4 if you will. I'm gonna remove the rear view mirror all together and replace it with the 7" monitor. Then I'll use two reverse cameras. One on the bumper to see behind the truck, then another one in the cargo light on the back of the cabin. That one will be on all the time until the reverse is needed, acting as a rear view mirror, except it's a camera. Gives me the same basic angle as a mirror is, but a little taller and wider view. 

Besides, the mirror itself, will be a rattle trap with all the bass in here anyway! 

What do you guys think about that?!?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Dang it, still no 4.600 yet. I thought for sure it'd be here today! Hmmmm


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## ocblaze (Nov 21, 2009)

I'd like to throw my vote for #3! Also your build logs help me survive the addiction due to my current lack of funds, haha! Thanks for everything and best of luck to you


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

ocblaze said:


> I'd like to throw my vote for #3! Also your build logs help me survive the addiction due to my current lack of funds, haha! Thanks for everything and best of luck to you


Thanks, and thanks for the support. Yes I think 3 looks good but I also can understand 2 and the simplicity of it. So I've got a couple things I'm working on for a design for the rear view mirror monitor thing. I'll get them posted up a little later when I get to work, provided I have time to breath today. Been super buys at work lately!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So these aren't great pictures, but this is what I was thinking about. 

From the driver side:



























Passenger side:



























And this is the little wire diagram I came up with on MS Paint! It basically uses the relay as a switch to switch back and forth between the two, using the reverse light to activate the coil on the relay which will close the switch, in turn turning off the rear view mirror camera and turning on the back up camera. The RCA's will go in a "y splitter" and into the one video input. 










I guess, I could just got with option #3 as well, and still use this design, the only problem then is, instead of just moving my eyes I'll actually have to kind of look down to see the rear view mirror, so to speak. I do like it up there in place of the actual mirror though. Maybe I'll just take my chances. Especially if it's gotta come off anyway. I'll decide soon!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I decided to nix the monitor up there and go with option 3 on the console. This will put the head unit down there, and the monitor next to it directly under the tablet. I think this is ultimately the best place. Why do I think that, because someone brought up from another site, that since the rear view mirror is coming down cause it'll get beat to hell, what do we think is going to happen to a monitor with components up there. Ya, bad move. Otherwise I love it and I'd keep it up there. SO, back to it, the monitor will go in the console, see option 3 on the console drawings, and the rear view mirror will come out, and the cameras will go in. 

Moving on!

I came back from my run today at lunch, and found a little somethin somethin waiting for me! What ever could it be!?!



















Yes, it's a brand new, let me say that again, a BRAND NEW Soundstream Rubicon Rub 4.600 amplifier. Should've bought brand new in the first place. Stupid me! Anyway, this in one of two. I'm waiting for the return money from the first set that I returned, and I'll pick up the second one. 

Beautiful Plastic, has not been touched! 









"Isn't she lovelyyyyy isn't she wonderrrrfulll", love the classic songs! 



























So there it is! One of two, two of two soon to come. Once I get the second amp, I'll have all the equipment for the cabin work to be done! Well I take that back, i'll need to get a 10" monitor still, but I can wait on that a bit I think! 

That's all for now!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You know what else I just thought of. I'm gonna be doing work on these doors. I may just re do the entire door panel brand new. I was thinking of eliminating the door locks and switches on the panel itself. I'm thinking that i put them in the center console as well. I don't need two sets of door lock switches really. Just one, but I'm thinking that I might be able to get away with one set of window switches as well. 

My question, there's one set of 4 switches on the driver door to control all 4. Then there's another set on the passenger door to control just that door. Can I just eliminate that one, put the cluster of 4 in and be good? I'd be eliminating the wires there, or at least capping them off. So I'm wondering about that. 

I think I want to replace all the door lock actuators as well, with new ones that are smoother working. These are all old and just could be replaced. So I need to do research to see if I have to buy replacements or if regular actuators will work. 

Then the last thing, I'll need to see, but I think I can eliminate the actual peg of the lock, what sticks out of the panel showing locked or unlocked, and that would show a cool smooth look too. 

Gonna need to do some research I guess.


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## ocblaze (Nov 21, 2009)

The older BMW e30 series and several of the newer Bimmers have center console mounted window controls. You could go grab one out of a junkyard or find one for sale on one of the various BMW forums. Here is an example of an e30 center console(I know its a M series but the regular 3 series have the same controls

http://podi.ca/winstontemp/BMW/e36switches/IMG_0471.JPG


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ya that looks nice. Nice easy simple buttons. I like it.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I have some good and bad news. Good news is the build is for sure still going forward. Bad news is "the boss" has spoken and she would like me to do some of the projects we've been talking about around the house before it gets too hot and before I start any others. She also would like me to finish a couple projects I've already started before any others get started. So, as all you married guys know "Happy Wife = Happy Life"! 

So for now I'll continue to build my equipment stockpile, and build credit points with the wife, and when these projects are done, I'll get this thing started. I'm going to still try and sneak the center console in there, but I don't know if that'll go over well or not. 

DONT WORRY, it's still happening, just delayed a bit! I'll update when I get to work! For now, thanks for checking in, and I'll be back later!


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

Well, as a married man also, I know your constraint.....


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## Mrnurse (Sep 8, 2011)

I KNOW WHAT YA MEAN! I have a few projects that I need to finish myself.


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## getonerd (Jul 24, 2007)

I understand my gf want me to do something to her whip but I'm planning v3.0 of my g6 in the background 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 03z-71 (Nov 11, 2008)

very nice man!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the understanding guys!


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Looking forward to the build.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

As my father used to say, "I always get the last word in my house - Yes, dear".

Looking forward to your updates.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

n_olympios said:


> "I always get the last word in my house - Yes, dear".


Funny, but 1 000 000% true :whip:


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## primetime1267 (Dec 29, 2010)

Looks awesome so far... Looking forward for my "Honey lists" to-do's to shorten also. LOL


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just thought I'd update, not much really to update! I've got a couple things in, but really I'm just holding for some time! Hoping in the next couple of weeks to get some work done! I'm gong to pull the truck box out and get some work done on the enclosure first I think, cause I can do it without tearing apart the truck! At least I could possibly get some progress started!

Here's the Rubicon 1.2500D































































I still need the second one, but this should get me going for design purposes.


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## yoshi5674 (Oct 13, 2011)

can't wait to to get your opinion on those SST-20's! I've got the Rub2500 and a Rub800.5 running my shizzle. The 2500 runs hot, so make sure you have plenty of circulation...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so since i've not updated anything in a while, and I'm getting stir crazy, I've decided to do a couple things. First I'm going to take the DC Audio 8's and build an enclosure for them to go behind the rear seat for now. The quick numbers are 1.43 cu ft, tuned to 34.05 hz and will be powered by the Soundstream Rubicon 1.1600D amp. All will be contained to the back wall. As I said this is only temporary. But I have a couple of questions. 

My first thought was to put the subs on the driver side and port up so the port comes up behind the seat but centered on the seat, or in the middle. Does this sound ok or should I put the subs in the middle and port on the driver side? 

Second is, actually I only had that one question really. 

I am planning to pull the door panels this weekend and get started on the doors too. We'll see how that works out. 

That's all for now.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here are some pics of what I got done yesterday. I may change up the port now though. I think it needs a bend in it, cause the more I look at it the more I'm worried about unloading issues. Check it out, let me know what you guys think! 

Remembering that this is just with the scrap I have around the house. I was trying not to use my birch cause I would like to use that sheet for the doors that have to get done. But I had some scrap birch around, aside from the sheet, and a full sheet of 1/2" MDF as well. So that's what I'm using. 

Drawing out the cuts.


















Now, to put it together!









Glued and screwed! I thought about using finish nails, but I had limited time to work on this, I think about 3 hours, and I was frankly too lazy to walk out to the shop to get the nails. So I used the screws I had right inside the garage! LOL! 




































Both sides on, read for a top and bottom! Again glued and screwed!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

All together. Now time for the port! 




































So this is what I was looking at last night and thinking about. It's just a straight port and the subs will be on the other side opposite the port. SO the port is facing right at the subs. This is why I'm worried about the unloading issues. I may re do it and wrap it up and back. Not sure that makes sense but basically take it and bend it up and back facing the side. Not sure if side facing or if up facing the port will be best. If I face it up out of the top, then it'll be going up behind the seat and out. On the side, I have about 5-6 inches before the side panel on the truck. Suggestions are welcome! 










Side









Tacked the back on, it's not glued or attached permanently. But this is basically what it will look like when I'm done! 









So I took the back off then, and set it down and puddled a nice bead of glue all around the whole interior. Went and looked at it today and it's dried nicely. Although now I have to take the port out and redo it. Oh well! 









So there it is. I'll try and work on it some more tonight, but I doubt I'll be able to touch it before the weekend. We'll see.


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## BigEasy (Feb 13, 2011)

FINALLY a obs build. My all time favorite truck. unfortunately, i got rid of mine due to the fact it wasnt a powerstroke, but just to give you more ideas, here is how i started my build before i got rid of the truck. 3 piece design.



























also, no flamming on the POS sub. It was the only sub i had at the time :laugh:

Good luck on the build man, ill be watching!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Those are actually a huge help man thanks! It helps me on invisioning my center console. Thanks so much! I've got some design changes to share as soon as I get them approved by some folks! Good stuff! Same equipment, just a little design change.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well I had a little set back this weekend. Friday night went out with my Mom and Family (wife, kids) in her van for dinner. Got home and went to let my daughters out of the van via the sliding door, got distracted and while reaching for the sliding door ended up shutting to front door on my left ring finger! EFFING HURTS!!! Anyway, it's in bad shape!



















It's actually worse today. About 80% of my nail is black, the finger is about close to twice the size, and I'm most likely going to loose the nail! Good times! SMH! But alas, I press on! I did manage to man up and get some work done, painful as it might be! At least I'm right handed so that helps!

I've decided pretty much to leave the port the way it is. It's only a temp set up, and I have a feeling it's not gonna be in here long. So onto yesterday's work.

It was time to get these subs cut in and fitted. Thanks to DC Audio for giving me this nice cardboard template. Fits within an 1/8" for the cutout. So I used that to lay it out and then cut the inside of the line. Should make for a nice tight fight! 









The other two marks with the circles around them are where the threaded rods will be going. I'm using 3/8" threaded rods with nuts and washers. Do I need it, maybe not, but it's only 1/2" that I'm using so I wanted to make sure it wasn't gonna move to much. 









Little liquid therapy, and my jig saw. Now, normally I'd say never operate a power tool while under the influence of alcohol, but..............wait what am I talking about, I'd never say that. Enjoy, cheers! Just try not to loose any fingers! 


















Mmmmmmm sexay!!


















Now I was already going to put a top panel on, a flush mount panel if you will, but I was originally going to put on a 1/2" panel. After some thought and putting a piece up next to the subs, I decided it wasn't going to be enough. So I decided to go with a 3/4" piece. However the downfall is, I don't have one that's long enough to go all the way across. So I decided to just do over the subs.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

This is basically how it will look. Some details to be added, roundovers etc. But you get the idea. 









Will also be screwed in from the inside so no holes will be seen.









Now then it was time to get the holes cut out. I was originally going to use a hole saw and then the router. But my battery died on my big drill so I grabbed the smaller one and drilled a bunch of holes to cut out with a jigsaw. Then router it. 









Port spot to be cut out. 



























Time to make some dust! 









First the port. This was kind of a pain in the ass cause I couldn't get it to sit still on the saw horses and do it on it's side. So I had to stand it up and then I had to get on a bucket cause it was too tall! PAIN! SO it's not my best work! But it'll do! 









Then I got out the roundover bit and took care of a few corners!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So in my haste to get things done, I did not pay attention and made a few mistakes. I routered out the edges around the box to the flush panel but didn't pay attention to the screw holes which made notched in my panel. DAMN IT! I'd redo it if it was a permanent panel, but it's not. It transferred to the round over too. 

Put the sub in to get my outer cutout. I had a bit for the router but it's way short for the cut out. So back to the jigsaw!




































Then the test fit! I like it! 









Then a little roundover to finish it off! 


















So that's pretty much where I left it off. I have a few things left to do still. 

Attach Back Panel 
Install Bracing Rods
threaded inserts for subs
Sanding
Amp Layout
Paint
Wire the subs
Install the amps. 

I have to decide how I want to finish it. I may actually put a little carpet on the front of the flush panel. I have some of that Home Depot heavy outdoor carpet left over from a different box. I may paint the front of the box itself grey and do a two tone theme. Not sure yet. 

Hoping this will be done in the next week or so. 

Thanks for tuning in!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I got some power in for this system! Got a deal on a couple of XS Power batteries! Wasn't even really on the radar for these yet, but it was a good deal by a good guy, so I couldn't pass it up. Also got buss bars with them. SCORE!!! Check em out. They're in the trunk of my civic, and I'm at work so this is the best I could do for now. Maybe I'll take better pics later when I have more time to get em out of the boxes. Look a little dusty, but they are used. Still in good condition though from what I can tell. I'll get em cleaned up and ready to go soon. 

XS Power D6500 Batteries x 2:




























And buss bars to attach them together. 









I also got some RCA's yesterday for the temp set up. A 20' 2 channel set and a 20' 4 channel set. These will do me nicely. I've had these before and had good luck with them. 

Stinger 4000 series RCA's









So that's all for equipment for now. I think that with these two batteries and the buss bars, I'm going to for sure try and get them both up front under the hood. If I can figure out how to fab up a tray for both to sit next to each other, I'll utilize the buss bars and get myself some more 1/0 Ga and do single runs to the back. Maybe I'll do two dual runs of 1/0 ga to the sub amps, and then do single runs of 1/0ga or 4 ga to the other amps. I'll decide that later, but I think for sure, I'm gonna try and get these to fit into the front area where the battery tray is at currently. I also need to decide if this will be enough or if i need to get a third battery. Remember this isn't a competition vehicle, at least not at the moment. So I may not need the gobs of power that most other people have. We'll see. 

That's all for now. Thanks! 

Oh wait, not all. The more I think about it, the less satisfied I am of the front 3/4" flush panel on the temporary box. I'm gong to re do it, to fix the sides, and then also add a little touch of detail in there as well! Might be able to get to that this week, but if not a little this weekend. Stay tuned! More to come!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I went out and looked and I think, while not measuring, I can take both of these batteries, make a new plate for them to sit on, and they can sit int he oem spot sideways right next to each other. Probably going to still have to get custom with it, but I think it'll work none the less. 

I'm also going to check out some other things. I think I can get an air filter system that will eliminate the box on the other side of the bay, and i can get another battery tray in there, and maybe I'll just go with a third D6500 and call it a day! 

I'll be addressing these things after I finish the box and amp rack. However, chances are this battery thing will be more permanent, not temporary like the subs and amp rack.

Damn I need to learn how to weld!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok guys, I have updates today! I had a few hours this afternoon before i take my family to the drive in's and watch the new Madagascar movie! My daughters are soooo looking forward to it. So I was able to sneak out to the side of the house and get some work done on the box. 

When I left off, I did a test fit of the subs, and a test fit of the flush panel. I'm still not happy with the flush panel and I'm not sure if I'm going to do anything about it or not, but for now I'm just going to hold on to what I've done! 

Today I started by drilling the holes for the threaded inserts. 


















Then got to installing them.


















Once I got them all installed, I realized that I had a problem, which was confirmed by a test fit of the subs. The edges of the inserts stick out farther than the hole is. So the subs hit them and the holes don't line up. Bummer! You can see that here.









So I decided to get out my trusty friend and take care of the problem! 



























Did another test fit and we're golden.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The next order of business was to address the square edges on this port. Not much I can do about it, but sand it. So I used my good friend again, with a sanding wheel this time, and did the best number I could on it. Probably should've done a little better job, but it's not square anymore and that's the point. 



























Next up was the bracing. Remember this is only half inch ply and mdf. So I need some kind of bracing in this thing at least. The top, bottom, and sides are probably ok, cause they're all birch and only about 6" wide so they're pretty stiff. However, the front and back panels are MDF and there's gonna be some flexin going on there! 

So instead of cutting a bunch of wood and nailing or screwing them, I decided threaded rods, washers, nuts, and nuts with nylon inserts will be the best thing to use here. 

The hardware! 


















Now that I've got the rods in, tightened on the bottom, and the second nut and washer on, it's time for the last part in completing the actual box. The back side including the amp rack.

Got the holes drilled to fit the rods through









Then it was time to glue it. NICE thick bead so it oozes out everywhere! 









Then get it on there! Obviously here I had to get it on, put a couple screws in it and flip it over. That's why it's back side up now. Did some counter sinking and then screwing! She's tight!!!!









Now as you can see the rods are too tall. So I had to cut them off. Well in order to not mess up the threads and be able to get the nuts on, I put on a couple extra nuts first, then cut them off. This way I can run the nuts off, salvage the threads and put the nuts with the nylon inserts on with no problems!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So after this was done, I was thinking to myself, I really need to get an air saw. I've been talking about getting one for a while now, and really it's just a good tool to have. So after seeing this, I was shaking my head saying I have to just go get one! So that's next on the list of tools to buy! 









So I ran those nuts off and put the final ones on no problems and tightened it down! NO FLEX!! 









I also trimmed off the excess! Not pictured. 

So here is what she looks like so far! 









Now onto the flush panel. I need to hide the nuts from the rods, so I measured it out, drilled the holes and got it mounted. 


















Half inch bit with tape to mark the depth. 1/2" out of a 3/4" panel. Needed to stay within the extra quarter inch! 









Then I just reamed them out a little bit to fit the nut! 









Sits beautifully!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So the flush panel, I had said before, was going to be screwed in from the inside to not show screws. But that just wasn't going to work. These subs were kind of a pain to get out of there, and if I ever have to take them out, I'd rather not have to pry them out and risk puncturing one or something stupid. So I decided to just screw them on from the front. Then if I need to take it off, I can with no problems. 









Test fitted the subs. I'm getting excited. It's still a temporary box, and there's some stuff that's driving me nuts, like the flush panel, and it being just one side of the box, and the router dips from the screw holes, and stuff like that. But overall I'm happy with it. It'll work out for a temp box. 


















Now it's time for the sexy!!!!

Soundstream Rubicon 1.1600D sub amp, and 4.600 mids and highs amp. 









Time for the layout! 









So this was the first layout, and then I even went ahead and drilled out holes for the inserts. But I had to change it. 



























Reason I had to change it was cause I left myself no room for a fuse block or ground block. Yes, there's only 2 amps, but I still need to have them. So I moved the amps down a bit, and left myself plenty of room for that. Those will get made a little later. I'll probably just go pick up some aluminum bar from home depot, drill and tap em, and call it good. I do have some aluminum block here though that I was going to make custom blocks with, so maybe I'll use those. We'll see! 

So here she is, rough and in the nude! Amps mounted in the correct spaces. 









The top looks unbalanced, but that will balance out when I get the blocks in there for power and ground. It's the bottom right that's not sitting well with me. I may do something there to decorate it and dress it up. We'll see! 

So that's it for now. We're getting closer, but still a ways to go! 

Thanks for tuning in!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Sweet, progress!


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## DaCid (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm inspired by the amount of thought and work you put into all of your "temporary" setups. Whenever I did anything "temporary" I would make it very quickly and messy, and then I wouldn't want to make anything "permanent" because I would already have my sound! Hahaha. 

Good work, and I can't wait until we get to see your "real" setup!


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

indeed! sweet temporary....

but really, if were all honest. Arent they all temporary set ups, as in, do we ever really leave it afteward?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

IBcivic said:


> Sweet, progress!


Thank you sir! 



DaCid said:


> I'm inspired by the amount of thought and work you put into all of your "temporary" setups. Whenever I did anything "temporary" I would make it very quickly and messy, and then I wouldn't want to make anything "permanent" because I would already have my sound! Hahaha.
> 
> Good work, and I can't wait until we get to see your "real" setup!


Well I always build like it's permanent, even when temporary. As you can see. But the reason I do so, is cause the rate in which I'm able to work on this stuff, my temporary set ups end up being in for a while before the more permanent builds can get done. 

That and I take a lot of pride in my work, so even temporary gets more detail addressed to it than most. 

Thanks for the kind words. I can't wait to get started on the rest of it. 



sydmonster said:


> indeed! sweet temporary....
> 
> but really, if were all honest. Arent they all temporary set ups, as in, do we ever really leave it afteward?


You make a great point! It's all temporary in one way or another. I like the way you think! 

Hoping to get more done soon! Thanks guys!!


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

Well you do have to admit though, yours are much more temporary than most others'.


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## chevbowtie22 (Nov 23, 2008)

Looking great so far. I'm with everybody else on your attention to detail and your quality considering this only a temp build. Simply fantastic. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on those 8's when you finally get them in.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

n_olympios said:


> Well you do have to admit though, yours are much more temporary than most others'.


:blush: ya you got me on that one. That's very true! I'm trying as hard as I can to make this build a more permanent one. This is my project truck and it's going to be a more spl orientated vehicle, but with sound quality in mind as well. Considering I drive it maybe 3 - 4 times a month, probably twice that during the summer, I don't think too much needs to go into it. HOWEVER, I guess it's hard to say that considering what's going into it! LMAO! 

But real talk, I'm trying to make this one as permanent as possible. 



chevbowtie22 said:


> Looking great so far. I'm with everybody else on your attention to detail and your quality considering this only a temp build. Simply fantastic. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on those 8's when you finally get them in.


Thanks for the kind words. I'm looking forward to hearing them. From what I understand they get overshadowed by the infamous Sundown Audio SA-8v2's. Those things absolutely get down! But I also know these can take a beating as well. One of the DC reps has 2 in a sealed enclosure on a DC Audio 1.2k and they take it laughing!!! SO my 1.1600D should be nice! 

Can't wait!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

No not much happened this weekend! Well non happened really! It's been a long weekend! Father's Day BBQ yesterday, Family time for father's day today, Firday was spent getting my house ready for the BBQ yesterday. 

Thursday I did a little something but not much really! Here's some pics. 

While I was waiting for my new Father's Day Present to arrive, Webber Summit S-470 BBQ, I decided to work on the Ground Distribution and Power Fuse Blocks. 

Some of you may remember this equipment from my Civic Build. I was going to just buy some blocks, but I decided I have these, and I'm going to need blocks for the actual build, so I might as well make some now. I need 3 spots for the actual build so that's what I put together for this as well. Check it out. 

Raw Aluminum and tools!


















Taped it up so I could draw up some dimensions. 









Got the power fuse block laid out









Then the ground block









No time to cut them out, but that's going to be a pain anyway. I'll get it done soon. I actually have a chop saw, which I think for this may be safer than a table saw, but I need to buy a metal blade for it. Then drill the holes, tap for screws, and mount it on whatever I'm going to mount it on. 

Then while I was waiting, I also got a ring at the door bell! 









Little teaser!! Got something up my sleeve for this! Muahahahahah That's all you get for now! 









I'll see if I can get anything done on it this week. Goodnight now!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I decided to make tonight a little bit of a work night. My plan is to do a few things on it that will help me tomorrow night. Going to the drive ins again with my daughters to see Brave, the new Disney movie. Last time we went, I used some home speakers that were 8ohm and I had it cranked and it just didn't seem that loud to me. 

So, tonight, I'm going to do a few things. I'm going to swap those out with some other speakers, I have some pics but I'll put them all up later. I'm going to do the head unit swap, maybe. I'm going to put one of the two D6500's in there, and maybe run some cable (rca's, power, ground, etc.) Don't get your hopes up, cause I wanna watch the Finals tonight too. So it may not end up happening. But I'll have some pics. 

I've also decided to add some stuff to the system. Because I do so much out of the truck, Drive ins, softball tournaments, camping, I've decided to build a couple of component cabinets, and add a small 4 channel amp to the system. I'm also going to be putting in another amp to run this. The amps will all be switched up front, so I can turn them on or off when I need or don't need them. Also going to add a few quick disconnects in the bed of the truck for these. 

That's all for now.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I'll try this again. I was half way through it and my computer decided it was a good time to update and restart! Oh well. 

So, I had a set of cabinet speakers I was using for outside speakers for the truck. They were just hooked up to the rear channels of the head unit. I used them when we were at the drive ins last week and they just didn't have a good enough output for me. Wasn't very clear. So I decided to change all that. 

Here are the old speakers and cabinets


















New drivers compared to the old drivers


















Oh those are gonna look nice in there.









In order to get those bullet tweets in there, obviously there was some serious alterations that had to be made. I didn't have a hole saw that was big enough to get them to fit, but with this one it would get me close, and then my trusty dremel could do the rest of the work. 


















Test fit! Nice!









Next I took the old caps from the old tweets out. Those are cute! LOL









Little difference huh!?!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

SO next I had to solder on the new caps on to the new wires. I got this little beauty a while ago, but then the builds stopped so now I finally get to use it. 









Soldered em all up! 









and back on the tabs









for good measure I decided a little poly fill wouldn't hurt. 









Mid wired up and screwed in! 









Tweet. Man that thing is big. It's damn near as heavy as the mid. Unreal! 









Ready to go! 









Got em wired up to the truck.









Another little close up.









And a video of how they sound! So recall, that these are only on the head unit on the rear channels. No amp, nothing. 


So as I said on the video, I had nothing other than a Jay Z cd to play. The head unit in there isn't set up for my phone or anything like that. So that's what I had to play. Drive ins should be much clearer tomorrow night! Woot!

So that's all I was able to do tonight. Wanted to get the battery in tonight too at least, but I just ran out of time. Had things to do at home, and quite frankly watching the Heat prove a point tonight, was worth it. Feel bad for OKC cause I like them too, really wasn't rooting for anyone except I really wanted Lebron to get his ring, but the Heat did work! Anyway, so I wasn't able to get anything else done. 

So that's all for tonight. Thanks for checking in!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I took a few minutes tonight before we get ready to leave for the drive ins, and swapped out the battery. 

I didn't get the pic of the readings, but this one is sitting at 12.31v. 









Took it out. Nice and rusty under there. When I get ready to do this for real and finalized, I'll be replacing that panel. I think I can get a pair of these or a pair of other batteries in there. 









The new beast









Sitting at 12.89v (this was me testing it today with my new voltage meter. It needs adjustment obviously.)









In it's new home. Now I wouldn't usually advise putting two 4ga cables into one 1/0ga cable, but in this case I was in a bind cause the screws weren't long enough, I didn't have others that would fit, and I didn't want to put the old battery back in. So for now it's tight and it'll work. 









Finally a little running voltage reading! WOOT!!









That's it. Now I won't have to worry about the battery dying at the movies! Thanks for checking in!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well last night I was able to go out and get a few things done on the temp sub box. I want to do more with it, but I'm thinking right now, just get it in the truck. So I'm lacking some details, more sanding and body work, that would make even this temp system pop. But believe it or not, I'm fine with it. Now, don't get it twisted, should this have been my final set up, or at least my more permanent set up, then I would go through the tons of steps to make it look like glass! 

So with all that being said let's get to some pictures! 

The sub box structure is pretty much done. Subs could probably go in and play now, aside of the fact that I have no amp set up yet. But this work is the little details, and me practicing some new things. I've never done anything like this before really so I'm kind of taking this opportunity to learn as I go. Fly by the seat of my ass! 

Recall that I didn't like the empty space on the opposite side of the subs. Problem was I didn't have enough 3/4" MDF to go all the way across. So I came up with this little gem. Check it out! BTW, these were all taken with my phone (samsung galaxy nexus). I need a new camera, but I can't really afford one right now. That's why, if the format is a little screwy. On to the pics! 

I started out with a piece of 1/4" ply. 









That's gonna go here. 









bam!









Next up I grabbed a piece of 3/4" MDF and went to work. What's that box up there though? How does that fit in the equation!?!









Wait for iiiittttttt
























Tadaaaaaaaa









Now I needed a frame to go around it, but I need to trace around it as well to get the exact cut out. Hmmmmm....I got it! 2 Pencils, and a piece of 3/4" Pipe should do the trick! 


















Yep, looks good! 


















Time to get it cut out. Got my jigsaw out and went to work. Got the outside cut out.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then the inside.









Next it was time to remove some stuff. This is where I learned a little lesson. I only needed about 3/16" for the glass to fit in, but I needed about a half inch for the leds. I did this wrong, you'll see why. I'll explain when I'm done. 


















Not to bad for freehand. It'll do for this. 









So the thing I did wrong was I ended up taking the depth for the leds, out of the whole thing. What I should have done, was taken out the depth for the glass all the way back, then gotten a thinner bit out of my case, and did a deeper thinner cut around that area for the leds. It would've brought the glass down further and deeper from the top, gave a groove for the leds to sit into, and made a thicker stronger piece. Right now it's pretty thin and fragile. So lesson learned, I'll know for the next time. 

Now then, let's cut some glass.


















Oh that's gonna be nice! Looks foggy cause I have the clear protective plastic still on it. 









Got it wired up and ready to go. Temporarily anyway. I need to still get it sanded a little, and painted. 









Now lets test it out. Got it wired up to a spare battery.









And we have light! This was in my garage on the floor, and there was quite a bit of light in there, so not the full effect, but you get the idea.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Now that looks pretty good, again the protective plastic is still on which is why you see the scratches. But I think that it can look better. I'm loosing a lot of light out of the bottom. So to solve that issue, I put some tape on the bottom of the piece over the leds. 









Let's try it again. I think it gives a better output. 









Let's look side by side. 
















So now that that's done, it's time to get some stuff finished. I sanded the oval down by hand. Just to round the edges a little bit. I wanted to put a round over on the inside, but with taking that much meat out, I just didn't have enough to do it. So I just sanded down the sharp edge on it. Then grabbed the only black paint I had on site, which was a heat paint.


















For the glass, I didn't want to paint it, so I grabbed the can of niteshades I had on the workbench, and gave that a try! 









The wrinkling you're seeing in the glass, is the tarp I have over my car port area. It's not the paint. 









Next I sanded down the enclosure a little bit. I wanted to do oh so much more, but I just need to get this thing finished. I know how bad that sounds, and it's not my normal way, but it has to be right now. 









Using the same paint, again all I have on site, I painted up the box real quick.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then a little look at where the frame is gonna go.









Little teaser on how it's gonna look! 









So that's as far as I got yesterday before "mamma" asked me to come in and help get the kiddo's ready for bed. When mamma calls, it's time to answer. But, I'm very very close to being done. Here's what I have left to finish this enclosure. 

Mount the glass - I don't have any silicone so I may have to hot glue it in.
Mount the leds 
Tape up the back over the leds, I'll use electrical tape this time.
Cut a groove to run the wires
Install bolts for the sub wires.
Install subs
Install amp

So it's getting there. I'm going to try and get it buttoned up today, but I also have a lot of house work to do. So we'll see. If things go well, I should have this playing by next weekend! WOOT! 

Thanks for checking it out!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

There has been a little change in amplifiers. Since I'm going to be building the civic again, I decided that the 1.2500D would be too much for that little car. At least I think it will. So for now, I'm going to go ahead and use the 1.1600D in the civic, and then wire the subs to 4ohms and use the 1.2500D for the truck and these 8's. Should give me great output. I may try this in the civic when I get the sub in, but I don't think I'll need it. 

The other change is, I'm going to take my Alpine CDA-9886 out of my civic and use it in the truck, I think. I'm going to put the Pioneer DEH-80PRS in the civic, since it's my daily driver. Might as well have the nicer unit in the daily. 

Lastly, the mids and highs will just run off the deck for now. 

I'll have to replace a few things when it comes time to do the truck, but I think I'm ok with that. I'll have to be!  

That's all!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok here we go! Got lots done today! Let's get started! 

So when I left you guys last I had all the stuff painted black. Well that just wasn't sitting well with me. I needed some contrast! So I decided to take the trim pieces and paint them a metallic silver color.


















I actually got a bad can of paint when I started it so it didn't turn out that great to begin with. A little sand paper and some love, and it ended up ok. Again, if this was a more permanent build, i'd have been sanding it down, priming it again, getting rid of all the flaws, etc. Try not to be to critical, remember, TEMPORARY!! 

So why did I leave the screws in there, you're probably asking. Well cause I wasn't filling the holes so I wanted to the screw heads to at least get painted. That's why I did it. 









So that was the first big change. From there I moved on to the lights and plexi and getting all that ready. There were some issues here too! I'll get to that. 

Got the leds stuck on the sides and read to go.









Followed by the plexi.









Then I glued them in. I tried as best I could to skip over the actual led lights when gluing and just sticking to the between portions. I think it went pretty well. 


















Love this look! This is without the protective plastic covering. 









Then I threw on some electrical tape to close up the seam and encapsulate the light flow. 









That was where my issue came in. I was actually so frustrated at it, I forgot to take a picture. But the leds were setting back too far, so when they shown, they didn't give off any light cause of the tint. I was pretty upset. But by this point I had to come up with a solution. 

I had another sheet of acrylic here, so i could have cut another piece, but with all that glue in there, and the frame being so flimsy, I was worried about breaking it trying to get the acrylic out. So I got out my air sander and went to work hoping this would work!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thankfully it worked out! 









So I moved on from there, tape again









And then tested it. The lights are off, and I'm not overly happy about that, but it's what I had here and they're two separate types of lights. What I probably should have done, was I should've put the brighter of the two lights on the sides and then the dimmer on top and bottom. But it's done now. I'll live with it. 









Next little issue was this connection. It sits way taller than the back of the frame. So I had to address that. 


















Sanded it down, perfect! 









She still looks purdy! Just more subtle now. 









Now it was time to run the wire. This is the 1/4" back plate for the sign. I drilled a hole in it after setting the oval on the plate and marking where the wire was going to go through at. 


















Got out the sander and sanded down a groove for the wire to pass through.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I used a finish nailer to get the plate and sign on, but that made some holes obviously, so those needed touching up. 



























Then the frame



























Ready to be stripped!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Pre money shot! 









Time for some sexy! 









Lit up! 









Close up!









Added a little DC Love!


















So that's it! That's what I got done today. So what's left?!

Wire the subs
Get the amp mounted
Then it's onto the truck, Run power and ground, rcas, turn on wire, install new head unit, and a couple other things! THEN ------Put the DD-1 on this bish and get her playing! Almost there!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I stopped at depot last night and picked up the hardware for the box. I'm gonna see about getting it finished up tonight and hopefully get it all playing by the weekend!


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## damonryoung (Mar 23, 2012)

scooter99 said:


> So that's it! That's what I got done today. So what's left?!


I'm diggin' the Ford logo... 

From my Bronco...


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Oooo I like that!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Here's some updates. I didn't get as much done as I wanted to, but when does that ever happen!? Right!? But I wanted to get this whole thing done and ready to be installed in the truck this week, leaving only the rca's, ground, power, remote, and speaker wires to be ran, and the head unit to be swapped and do that on Wednesday, I'm off for the 4th holiday. But I'm not so sure that's gonna happen.

I had a crazy busy weekend and the time that I thought maybe I could squeeze in a couple more hours last night but what we thought was going to be a couple hour day turned into a full day. Didn't get home till 11:30 last night. Today we traveled again! 

But, here's what I did get done! I started Friday night since I got off early and my wife had the kids. I did have the dogs and they needed some play time as well as I needed some work time. So I drug everything out back from the side of the house and decided I'd do two things at once. 









It was pretty warm so I got my mister fan I made, and my misters going on the patio. 


















Now that comfort was achieved, it was time to get busy! 

I decided to get started with the amps! I was only going to run the 1.2500D but I decided that the 4.500 would do well in the cabin. It would also give me some more power to my speaker boxes I made for outside. So I started laying those out! 

4.500


















1.2500D









Fuse holder that came with it. 









I decided to center the amps off the subs and the logo. They actually flow pretty well I think. 









Now using the same threaded inserts, I mounted them up. 









Now that the amps were mounted and ready to go, it was time to get busy on the subs. Got out the hardware I needed and bought last week, so I could get those wired up.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

God wouldn't this look so sexy! If I only had the room to do this! 









So I got to wiring them up! 
Positive to negative from one coil to the next!









Then positive and negative out. 









I found these the other day when getting my hardware, and thought they'd be perfect for this. So I picked them up. 









One for positive, and one for negative. 









Now let's get em attached. I used some washers with rubber attached to them. This was on the inside and out, to help seal it up. 













































Then I got my pig tail made for the amp.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Subs ready to go in. Running out of light as you can see! 


















Then I kind of panicked when I got these readings. I thought I had dual 4ohm subs, and would get a 4 ohm reading out of this. Turns out I had dual 2ohm subs and that's why I'm getting a 1.8ohm load. 









After that light was really pretty much gone. I started to wire up the amps and got about as far as I could until I could see much anymore, even with the porch light. I got the fuse block in, the power wire ran to each amp, and then a bolt for the ground in, and the ground wires to each amp. Also ran the sub pig tail wires. 

These were from Friday night. Kind of dark, and not the greatest pics. 













































Then I decided to get a couple more today to see a little better.









Sexy subs


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And a little wiring. I used wiring I have here. I didn't want to bust into the new stuff just yet. SO that's why it looks a little miss matched. 


















Like I said before I have to run the remote wires, the speaker wires, the rca's, power and ground wires and then the head unit swap. Then she should be playing. 

I am also thinking I may do a quick trim panel to hide all the wires up. Not sure on a color just yet, but I will most likely do black since the amps will give it some color itself. 

So, for now, that's it. Hopefully I'll get some more done this week. Thanks for checking it out.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Very nice, now throw it the back of that pick-up and git sum tunes goin!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Very very soon my friend. I'm getting excited I'm so close. I also found out, the Tsunami 1/0 ga cable I took from the car, I'm able to use on this cause it's plenty long enough! How's that for a nice surprise. 

I may have to dig into the new cable for the ground though. I don't think I have any of that long enough to get this done. 

Getting oh so much closer!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So here's a little update. My wife and I have decided to try and sell the civic. We're going to try for a month at least cause we need to get at least a certain amount to make it worth it to get a new vehicle. What does this mean for the truck? Well what it means is that the truck is going to go on full force. No pieces missing, except what I don't have already, being the second 4.600 and the second 1.2500d. Otherwise all equipment is in hand and is going to get used on the truck and nothing else. 

So I'm still going to go ahead and get this temp build done, that way I have sound and bass while the truck is being worked on, and then I'll get started on the actual build of it! 

Stay tuned the focus has shifted to here 100% now! Let's make some noise!!!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so I didn't get a ton done yesterday or Tuesday night, but I was able to get some done and be a bit happier with the project. What did I do you may be asking. Well I basically stripped it out and rewired it. Considering this is my only project now, there's no sense in trying to miss match all the wiring and wire with scraps. Most of the main wiring will stay, with exception of the few short runs on the amp rack itself. So I started doing that Tuesday night and got mostly done by last night. 

Didn't have all day yesterday to work on it as I wanted to, but I had a few hours and I used that time the best as I could. Let's get started. 

First thing I did was start getting the head unit out of the truck and get ready for the new one to go in. Here's the old Pioneer unit. This one sux cause the RCA's don't work on it, specifically the subs rcas. So it's gone! 









Now it's time to make way for this beauty! 









Got my tools out









Got to work!


















Wires all stripped and ready to get the business! 


















Heatshrink, and a connector for the remote wire. 









First two sets tinned.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Head unit wires tinned and the connector soldered on. 


















Heatshrink on and waiting, and harness ready to get connected together. 




































Time for shrinkage! 



























All together, time to clean her up!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Cleaned up and ready for installation. 









So then I moved onto the amp rack. Recall that it looked like this last time I showed it. 



























Well that all came off. 


















To make room for the new stuff! Stinger HPM Wire! Mmmmmmm yummy! I have one more 1/0 ga silver spool I don't have pictured. That's what I'm using for positive. 









So instead of using those screw on things, I decided to use the solder on, or crimp on, terminals. Problem was, I don't have any 4ga terminals. SO I had to crimp down a 1/0ga terminal to fit. Not the purdiest job, but it'll do for now. I don't think I have the right solder. But I'll be addressing all that before the rest of the build. 


















So I got a little carried away with working, and forgot to take pics of the work in progress as far as soldering wires etc. But they're all protected with heat shrink, and terminal soldered and ready to go.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I have more but I have to go take care of some business. I'll post more when I get back!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok I'm back. More pics! 

Heatshrink on the terminations! This is the 4ga, and the heat shrink I had was too big, but it will work. I need to re up my inventory of shrink! 









1/0 ga.









Stinger Blue Translucent remote wire! Soooo nice looking and feeling! 









Need to do some cleaning up, but it's coming along! 









Decided I needed a relay for the remote wire. So I grabbed the rest of the translucent wire and some stinger red wire, and ran them with the RCA's. Time to bundle up!









Wires snaking down the hall! 









My little helpers


















Getting it all put together! Slowly!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So again, I ran out of light cause I was working and not taking pics. But I got the RCA's placed, the volume knob wire place, and the red and blue wires placed. Started getting some zip tie bases on and tidying things up. As you can see it was getting dark out so I had to stop here, clean up, and get things set up for fireworks! Here's the rest of the pics. 


Even in the dark you can see how much cleaner things look. But I'll get some better ones tonight when I get home. Or it'll wait till tomorrow night when I can work on it again. REally need some shop lights on the side of the house. 


















Bundle of RCA's and wires to go to the front.









Here's what's left for wiring.









So I have that little bit left for wiring. I also need to make a trim panel to go over it and just show the front of the amps. That shouldn't take long to do. Still have to run the power and ground cables from front to back of the truck, get the rca bundle ran, and put the head unit in. Then, it's time to tune with the good ol DD-1 and see what she sounds like! 

Getting there. POSSIBLE, it'll be up and playing by Saturday night! 

Thanks for checking in!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Oh, almost forgot, I've got to get this ol girl in the shop. I'm getting some new tires, all terrains instead of muds, gotta get new shocks, and get it inspected. So that's coming up this week. I'll update that when it happens too.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nothing new guys, just some day light pics for you! 





































Should have more updates tomorrow night!


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> Got the power fuse block laid out
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just a tip on drilling and tapping these... do that job before you cut them out. A large block is much easier to clamp down to get the holes/threads straight in and will dissipate the heat from drilling and tapping WAY better.

Also, for the threaded rods you have in the sub enclosure... you can get the ends nearly perfect by chucking them in your drill and using Dremel cutoff wheels to make the ends evenly cut and rounded over. I've been doing them this way for long time with great results.

I was a bit disappointed to see such an abrupt/premature end to the Civic build, but you gotta do what you gotta do. You still gain from the experience though and it makes all future builds that much better. It's nice to see that someone else also properly solders up a wire harness instead of using butt-crimps. Takes a few extra minutes to do that way, but so well worth it for many reasons.

As for your AudioControl 6XS, it's a really good crossover. I figured out how to get the frequencies dialed in just right on my Corvette build (sorta the hard way), so if want any tips on that just ask.

Keep the pics coming!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks for the info and compliments. I'm always eager to learn something new, and it's always nice to hear compliments. Thanks! 

As far as the 6XS, I'm not sure i'm going to use it just yet. I'm using the DEH-80PRS and it's got a built in processor. The Rubicon amps, I'm understanding from other people, are really good for their crossovers too. So we'll see. If I do decide to go there, I'll let you know and we can go over it. Thanks! 

Updates coming now. Not much, but a little main piece!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I had to bring the truck to work today, and do some hauling for work. I decided that I didn't want to ride in silence all day, so I decided to get the head unit put in this morning. I didn't want to put it in just yet cause I still have to run the rca's and wires etc. But at the moment, it's not a big deal. I still have my alpine cage in there, so while the pioneer sits in there fine and doesn't move around, it doesn't also clip in. So I'll probably take it out tonight when I get home so I can at least keep it for a while. 

On to pics! 

Got the harnesses plugged in, good thing i did this already lol!









Head unit out and ready to go in. 









and in it's final resting place, well for now anyway! 









The beautiful shot
/
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/
/
/
/Wait for itttttttt
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
BAM!!









For whatever reason, I LOVE the look of this thing. There's nothing special about it that I can see but it just flows! 

Turned the key! And it works! 









Check this out, even has a volt meter on it! WOOT!! 
14.0 at idle! 









Now I've not done anything with it. Nothing on settings or anything really. I set the clock, date, and adjusted a couple of things. But not hooked up the bluetooth or anything else. I'll do all that when I get it all hooked up this weekend.

Thanks for checking in! That's it for now!


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## DaCid (Oct 17, 2010)

I don't know what looks better, the deck or the wiring behind it.... 

Have you used either of your Rubicon 4.600's yet? I was just curious because I am considering picking one up to bridge to my mids and just wanted to hear your thoughts on them.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thank you sir! 

No I haven't. I have the 4.500 ready to be hooked up, and that should be by the end of the weekend. I'll get a video up for you when I do.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I got some major updates for everyone tonight. 

First, I just dropped some serious cash on the truck. SMH, but it's done. I'm dropping her off on the 16th to 4wheelparts here in sac. I was going to do this myself, but I'm lacking seriously in time, and it's really a safety issue. The suspension is shot, tires need replacing, and more. Soooooooooooo, she's getting

New Pro Comp Leaf Springs up front with a 4" lift
Reverse Shackle Kit, gives it a softer ride, and giving it an additional 3" lift. But with the 2" negative sag up front it will end up as a 5" lift, instead of 7". 
5" Pro Comp Lift blocks in back.
Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks all the way around
Skyjacker Dual Steering Stabilizer up front (don't make a dual Pro Comp Kit)
New tie rod ends
New SS brake lines
Drop Pitman arm
Alignment
and Pro Comp Xtreme All Terrain 35" tires

Oh she's gonna be nice when she gets done! All just in time for camping on the 18th! Have a feeling the wife isn't gonna be too happy with the height, but such is life! She won't ***** when the ride is softer that's for sure!

Next update is gonna take some time! 83 pictures uploading as we speak! As soon as they're ready I'll start posting!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok, sit back and strap in cause here we go! 

Here's the current battery situation. 









For some reason I thought I'd see what I could do about it today. So I started taking things apart! Removed the tray it sat on. Actually, let me back up. In the picture above you can see, barely, a black bar on the back left of the battery. That bracket is another brace for the battery tray. I tried to turn the battery sideways, and that was in the way. So I took the bolt out of it, and moved it out and the battery fit, sort of. So then I started tearing into it. 









Removed the cylinder thing, I have no idea what it is. (for those of you on FTE forums, if you could enlighten me please). WEll I didn't really remove it, just really moved it out of the way for now. 









Then came down the starter solenoid. I hate that these are up here, it's really in the way! 









Took some measurements and grabbed a piece of foam board stock I had laying around. Made a template based on the size of the batteries, yes I said batterieS, and it worked out so I transferred it to wood! 









Put it in the space, and really it was looking really good! A couple shims under it on the old bracket, a brace in front, a brace on the side where the old one was, and we've got it made.......









batteries on the tray



























Then I started making braces for the front and the side. Notice I'm using all birch. Cause all I had on hand was 1/2" birch or 3/4" mdf. I figured birch would fare better in the elements. 









Also to that, let me really quickly stop and clarify something. If I knew how to weld, wood would not even come into play here. I'd make a new tray out of metal and that would be the end of it. However, I don't know how to weld, and for now, this will do in my opinion. I'll do another one later on down the road, cause I really do intend to learn to weld. 

Ok let's move on.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Sorry, this one was blurry for some reason. After looking at the tray, and stopping to measure, and doing some quick math and brainstorming, I realized that the tray really needed to sit on the bracket like the original tray. Well in order to make that happen I had to remove some material out of the wheel well. Not a big deal, and I'll get it fiberglassed in another time. 

So this is where i measured to cut. 









And here you can see why I need new tires BADLY!!









After a little fine trimming, it was in perfectly and sat flat as could be. I was very pleased! 









From underneath! Again blurry WTF!!!! I hate my camera! 









Next I did a little brace under the tray, so I had more than a half inch of material to screw into for the side bracket. 









bottom side. Screws just barely poke through. But that's ok, nothing under it to worry about poking, other than my DAMN FINGERS! 









Next I got the side racket screwed on.









Had some allen head screws laying around and they just happened to be the same thread size as the bolt holes that the original tray bolted on to. Lucky right!?! I think so! 


















So I bet you're wondering how I got those holes to be the exact hole size and be positioned exactly where they're supposed to go. Obviously the fender is in the way and I couldn't just draw through it to mark the holes. So, I put the old bolts in, and tightened them down. Then I put the tray back in with the bracket on, and SMACKED IT WITH MY HAMMER! Really! It made an indentation on the wood and thus, I knew exactly where the holes were supposed to be drilled. There you have it! A little Carver (my last name) ingenuity! 

Next I had to get the holes marked for the bottom bracket. That wasn't going to be so easy. There were clips that held those bolts in and they were so rusted, that when I tried to loosen the bolts, they broke. So, I got the tray in place, and tried to reach in where I cut the wheel well lining. Well it was too close for a marker to fit. So I grabbed one of my daughters 300 pencils, the teal one with the flowers, and I broke that sum ***** in half! Worked like a charm. Was able to trace the hole from under the liner.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> I really do intend to learn to weld. .


Try your local community college for some classes


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So the next part was figuring out, now that holes were in, how I was going to actually secure the tray to the bracket. Remember there aren't any threaded inserts on the bracket. So I decided to put some on the tray. If I could weld, again, I'd have tacked some nuts on the bracket and then I could've screwed, or bolted it down from the top. Instead I chose this pain in the ass solution. 

Threaded inserts, with my trusty attitude adjuster! This was my tool of choice when I was framing. 19oz, dual head, I could take this head off and put a different one on, it also had a nice grip on it. Loved this hammer! She just doesn't get the love she used to! teardrop! Ok moving on!









Inserts inserted! 


















Now it was time to add some sides so these bad boys don't move! 









Counter sunk holes 









put together!









Now to put it on the base. All counter sunk holes with 2" screws! Wanted it as stout as possible for wood! 


















Top side


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Some of the pictures seem to be hit and miss as far as working. Still using stupid failbucket for my photos. I really should change. I've noticed that if they're not working, and I refresh the page, they seem to come back. Just FYI. I know about it, not much I can do about it. Sorry. 

Moving on.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Some of the pictures seem to be hit and miss as far as working. Still using stupid failbucket for my photos. I really should change. I've noticed that if they're not working, and I refresh the page, they seem to come back. Just FYI. I know about it, not much I can do about it. Sorry.
> 
> Moving on.


Try holding off on the pictures until you get it figured out:worried:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok, lets do a test fit with this bad boy!









Little tighter with the walls on, not when in place, but getting it in place. But she's there as you can see. 









Bolted it in, and the bottom screws stuck up a bit. so I had to grind those down. 









Have I ever mentioned that this is my favorite tool I own! 


















Now, lets get a little test fit of the goods!









Now that everything is in and fits good, I had to move a few more things around to make it all work right. These three bolts needed to move over about an inch to get that cylinder back in. These bolts go to a vaccume thing. It was in the way for the cylinder going back in. Move over bioch!


















And these were the new holes for the cylinder. You can see the old ones right next to the tray.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

This is the cylinder thing again, ready to go back in.









In the new holes. "I love it when a plan comes together!"









A shot of the screws from under the tray. 









Now we can't just leave this as raw wood, so we must do something about it. I really should fiberglass it and seal it all in, but really I'm not sure how long I'm going to leave it like this so, for now we'll prime the hell out of it, and paint the hell out of it. Should seal it up nicely.



























So I forgot that I didn't have any black paint, I used the rest of it for the amp rack and box. So I had to run to the hardware store around the corner. Should've known they didn't have crap! I hate that place, but they have just enough to keep me going there, except when I really need something specific. They did however, have this stuff. It's leak seal by Rustoleum. It's made to seal up cracks and stop water leaks etc. So I figured a few coats of this stuff would do me just perfectly! See, now I'll go back, cause they had this. DAMN THEM! Rope me in every time! 









It really has a nice texture to it too.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok, so now that the battery tray is done and drying, it was time to get on to the real work! Getting that power to the back of the truck! PVC runs, with brackets









Stinger HPM 1/0 ga Ground and Positive cables! 









Ready to run it!









Let's get this party started! 









In case some of you don't know, the green stick is a fish tape, but in a stick! I think it's literally called a fish stick. For pulling electrical wires through walls and well anywhere really! It's been a life saver more than once for me! I hate crawling through attics! 


















And we're good up front! 









Went back and check on the box really quick. Painted the bottom side. Prematurely too, cause I put some finger marks on the sides. Oops! 









Now back to the cables. Ran them through the pvc and we're ready to mount them to the bottom of the truck. 









I chose to pass through the truck with some carlon elbows. They were a pain to get through cause they're a tight 90* and they're not full 3/4" like the pvc, but I managed! I probably should've grabbed some carlon while I was at the hardware store to make that little turn there, but I didn't think about it at the time.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

View from inside the cabin where the wires come through. 









Cable is done! 

Time to refuel!









Now it was time to get back to wiring on the amp rack. Kind of looks like a mess, but just wait a minute, it'll clean up! The blue sticky note is the wiring for the relay. It's been so long I forgot how to do it, so I looked it up! 









Relay done. Soldered and heat shrinked connectors. 









Remote turn on barrier strip, again soldered and heat shrink. 









BAM! And done! See told you it would clean itself up! The only thing missing now is the power cable and the ground cable. Those will come when it's in the truck! Oh and the second set of speaker cables. I ran the one for the front, but the rears aren't really in the truck. I have those boxes I made that I'll plug in when needed. Those will go on the first and second channels (top 2) when they're used. 




































These are prepping for the power and ground cables. Ready to be laid and zip tied! Neat and tidy!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

All the way down the side of the box. 









Also when I was at the hardware store, I picked up some hex bolts instead of screws. I was able to get a ratchet in there much easier than a screwdriver. Even a stubby was hard, I dropped it down in the fender well, which is why I had to pull the liner. 









Battery tray finished and mounted! Sure am happy with how it turned out! 









From under the well









Ah yes, it's a tight fit, but it's all in! Some of these wires are going to get changed here real soon too. Big 3 coming shortly, not this weekend, but in the next couple weeks. 









The goods, waiting to go to they're new home. 









One snuggled in!









And they're home! 









So I have buss bars for these, however, I didn't get the hardware with them. So I have to pick some up. I grabbed some earlier today but I grabbed the wrong thread type. So I had to temporarily get one battery hooked back up so I could move the truck. Mama wanted the garage! Not even arguing that one! 









They look good in there! They'll look even better with some aluminum buss bar bling!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And finally the cables in the truck. 









That's all I got for tonight. Not sure if I'll have more time tomorrow but I just ran out of gas to get it finished tonight. That box is a beast to lift on my own, and I didn't wanna risk puncturing a sub or scratching an amp. So I'll see if I can get it in tomorrow and running. 

Sorry about the pics guys, I'm gonna send Photobucket an email asking WTF is going on. This is happening a lot lately! Not sure if it's just their site, if I have too many photos in my account, or what the hell it is! We'll find out. Or I'll just have to switch over, cause I'm tired of it frankly! 

Good night all!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

trojan fan said:


> Try your local community college for some classes





trojan fan said:


> Try holding off on the pictures until you get it figured out:worried:


Not a matter of where to go, I can figure that out, it's a matter of time. I have none as it is. 

And like I said before, there's nothing I can do about the pictures. I've now sent them an email so we'll see what happens.


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## AccordUno (Aug 7, 2009)

Just find yourself a magazine that has the coupon for the $89 90amp welder from Harbor Freight and get it. I'm not a pro nor did I sleep at a holiday in, but I spent like 2 weeks working on some scrap metal, tinkering till I got closest to a good bead and then welded up my amp rack.. sorry no pictures yet until I finish my truck. BTW, make sure you get the leather gloves and use them when welding and grinding down the welds.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

AccordUno said:


> Just find yourself a magazine that has the coupon for the $89 90amp welder from Harbor Freight and get it. I'm not a pro nor did I sleep at a holiday in, but I spent like 2 weeks working on some scrap metal, tinkering till I got closest to a good bead and then welded up my amp rack.. sorry no pictures yet until I finish my truck. BTW, make sure you get the leather gloves and use them when welding and grinding down the welds.


Actually I just got a harbor freight circular yesterday. I'll go take a look and see if there's one in there. Good idea thanks! 

Not sure how much I can get done today, but we'll have to see where the day takes me. I have a birthday party for my best friends son's 9th birthday today, and my daughters are coming with me. That's from 1-4. I have some stuff to do this morning. So that leaves the evening. Not sure how much I'll be able to break out and do. So it's looking more and more like the weekend is done for me. I'm gonna see if I can get my brother over here before the party and see if he can help me lift the box in the truck. If I can get that done, I can do some wiring this week, little bits at a time. 

Stay tuned! BTW, going back and looking at the pics, I'm still very happy about how the battery tray worked out! VERY HAPPY! Would be ecstatic if I would've welded it and made it out of metal!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Little parts update for you guys. I bought a new steering box, power steering pump, and a fuel filter today. Should be here this week. Not audio related, but this thing is gonna drive like a dream after next weekend! Can't wait! 

Nothing is getting done today. Wish I could, but I'm zapped! Been in the heat all day with the kids and I simply have no energy for anything! I'll see about getting some stuff done this week. 

That's all!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I was talking to my lovely this morning and telling her I was going to try and get my brother over here to help me get the box in the truck. He lives way across the other side of town and isn't always that reliable. Anyway, she shocked the hell out of me and said, "well why don't I try and help you. Not sure I can be much help but I can at least try. You've been working hard on that thing and I'd hate for something to happen to it"! So after picking my lower jaw up off the ground from shock, I gladly accepted her help! So that ***** is going in the truck tonight! 

I'm also going to head on over to harbor freight and pick up a rivet nut tool so I can neatly attach it to the wall. I'm also going to use this for other things too, the door panels, the back wall panel when it's done, the center console, and probably the center roof mount.................whoops did I let that out? eepwall" So anyway, I'm going to get one of those cause it'll come in good use for me. <~~~~~is that even a complete sentence! It must be Monday! 

I'm also going to seriously look into a welder as well. I'm going to really need it soon for other parts of the truck. I need to do new side bars for the truck, or lower the current bars with brackets, and I need to make a new battery box at some point to replace my wooden one, I'll need to make battery boxes for under the truck, I'll at some point be seriously trying to do a dual alternator set up and need to do brackets for that, I'll have to replace my exhaust soon (want duals that terminate and drop down below the bed, not out of the back or sides), and I would love nothing more then to be able to make a nice beefy bumper for front and back! That would be SICK!! So I need to learn to weld, so that's getting bumped up on the list for sure! 

Looking for a nice bed shell for an 8' bed which are not always easy to find on craigslist. If I can get that, I'd love to eliminate the truck box all together and just do a sub enclosure instead of a sub enclosure inside the tool box. 

I'm just rambling things off now. So hopefully I'll get some pics taken tonight. Much more to come very soon! This should be playing, if I have anything to say about it, tomorrow night, latest Wednesday night!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> I would love nothing more then to be able to make a nice beefy bumper for front and back! That would be SICK!! So I need to learn to weld, so that's getting bumped up on the list for sure




Buy some new ones and save yourself a headache, time and money

Welding is not a skill people acquire overnight


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

There are no skill acquired overnight. Not good ones anyway! But why would I buy something I could probably make, to put on a custom vehicle, that I'm mostly doing myself? Doesn't make much sense does it? Besides that would be the easy way out! Why would I take the easy way out!?

But thank's for your input.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> There are no skill acquired overnight. Not good ones anyway! But why would I buy something I could probably make, to put on a custom vehicle, that I'm mostly doing myself? Doesn't make much sense does it? Besides that would be the easy way out! Why would I take the easy way out!?
> 
> But thank's for your input.


I've seen your skill set....:laugh:...J/K, buy new ones...at least they will get done

wood in the engine compartment


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ya, I'm gonna leave that alone in the attempt to keep this thread kind and clean and on track! Let's not get to where we were before. It's on a good track right now, don't derail it please! Matter of fact I think I've been making good progress on this one if I do say so myself! 

Hoping to have some updates a little later, but it's 103* outside right now, so we'll see how mama feels about getting out there and helping me get that beast in the truck.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

103 is a nice day in Las Vegas, today we hit 113...tomorrow is projected to hit 117


Hydrate and stay in the shade

PS... do you have a modern air conditioner?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So my appointment for next week kind of got blown up a little bit. Apparently ORU is out of Reverse shackle kits for my truck, well they've rebuilt them but they're being powder coated right now, so they won't be ready by the time my appointment is here. So we're gonna have to reschedule that. But the tires and some other stuff will be done on Tuesday anyway. Then I'll get the rest when it comes in. 

No work done last night. It was a rough night and the wife and I were just too tired to get out in the heat. Gonna try again tonight. 

That's all for now.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

What appointment


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

scooter99 said:


> So I got some major updates for everyone tonight.
> 
> First, I just dropped some serious cash on the truck. SMH, but it's done. I'm *dropping her off on the 16th to 4wheelparts here in sac*. I was going to do this myself, but I'm lacking seriously in time, and it's really a safety issue. The suspension is shot, tires need replacing, and more. Soooooooooooo, she's getting
> 
> ...


THIS Appointment! Although I never updated after that. It's not getting the full lift like we thought here. It's still getting at least 3" though. I'll get some new springs and blocks (or air bags) for the rear later on.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So I got some parts in today from Summit Racing. I know, for the audio forums, this isn't an audio update, but it's still a build log. So I'm logging my build. 









Power Steering Pump



























Steering Gear Box with instructions on how to change it and bleed the system.


















Lastly a new fuel filter, Just got a new oem one. 









So for those that didn't know, I had some leaking issues with my steering box. I have horribly loose steering, and there's some whining coming from it as well. So in this project of rebuilding my truck, I thought what the hell, let's just replace it all. 

This is what the steering box looks like currently, along with the pitman arm which is getting replaced when I do the suspension in the next couple weeks. 


















The Fram filter has been changed out already....see! Also a better pic of the gear box.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Also to the suspension, these are what the tie rod ends look like that are getting replaced. They're all like this. I'd really like to get some of the stuff painted or powder coated, but maybe I'll do that later down the road when I get it painted. 









So that's about it. I'm going to see about getting the power steering pump, steering box, and the fuel filter installed this weekend. If I don't feel good about it, then I'll have them do it when they do the suspension. 

That's it for now. Thanks.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> Ya, I'm gonna leave that alone in the attempt to keep this thread kind and clean and on track.



I must of miss understood your post, I thought this build was going to stay on track


my conscience told me to never chase bad money


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## DaCid (Oct 17, 2010)

scooter99 said:


> I'd really like to get some of the stuff painted or powder coated, but maybe I'll do that later down the road when I get it painted.


Getting all of the under carriage powder coated would look really good! I have a few friends that own trucks and jeeps, but they couldn't afford to have stuff powder coated. Instead we sprayed one with just some black spray paint and the other with some of that spray on truck liner. They both look pretty good if you ask us, it's much better than not painting it at all. And if you are really meticulous about it you can touch it up every month with another coat, and keep it looking really good! 

Just my .02.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Photo's are uploading as we speak but probably no posting for a couple more hours till I get to work. BUT IT'S UP AND RUNNING BABY!!!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> . BUT IT'S UP AND RUNNING BABY!!!


You finished the stereo!!!!!:beerchug::thumbsup:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok folks here we go! I did a TON of work yesterday on this thing! I got some mechanical work done as well as audio work done! My brake system on this truck is now all 95% new, only leaving the rear soft hoses to the rear brakes, and the brake booster left to change if there are any more issues. Yesterday I spent the majority of the day running around for a damn hose that NOONE in sac had! I finally found one. I needed a driver side one that had two ports in it, one from the master cylinder, and one to the passenger caliper. So I changed those hoses, and the front calipers, and also managed to change out the fuel filter. 

In between all that, I was working on the audio in bits and pieces. So here we go! I actually took most of the finished pics this morning instead of last night. There just was no light last night to do it. Besides that it was 11:30 when I got done and I was just too tired to deal with it. I did get some in progress pics though too. 

So my brother helped me hoist the beast into the truck on Friday. I just had it sitting back there till yesterday and then I put some screws through it into the back wall to hold it up. It's pretty solid. 


















Then I got to wiring the bundle to the front. 

This was down the side of the box. Let me explain something for a second. I probably should've ran the speaker wires up front, but I didn't. I decided, since I wasn't going to have rear speakers, as you'll see in some of the pics, I might as well make things a little bit easier on me for this, and tap into those. So that's what I did. Those rear speaker wires, will get connected to the fronts behind the head unit. The head unit speaker outs will be disconnected. This is also going to come into play later, and I'll get to that, then. 













































Finally the bundle up front ready to be put away! 









Decided to utilize this little pocket under my dash for the sub knob. I drilled a little hole in the top or under side of it. Then ran the cable in. 









All the other cables went in to the head unit area to be connected.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So last night I was able to actually get it up and running and playing. I had some issues though, big time issues. Here's a pic of what she looks like at night! 









So my issues. A little tip, always pay attention first of all, but when you're tired, and working on 3 different projects at one time, you have to pay extra special attention. What ended up happening was I had the 4 channel amp cutting out at the first bass note of every song. It was driving me nuts. It'd go into protect and I just couldn't figure it out. On top of that, when it was playing the right side was not working at all! I was getting frustrated, it was 11:00 at night and my brain couldn't process what was going on! 

So to troubleshoot, I pulled the head unit to make sure my connections were ok, and alas they were not! I managed to get the left channels correct but the right channels I managed to connect the rears to rears and fronts to fronts! Basically connecting the neg and pos together! Probably could've been really a lot worse than it was! SO, I got it corrected and it's very nice now! Whew! 

So these are the pics I took this morning! This is of the power and ground cables I ran last night. Like I said, too dark to really get em last night. 



























Another view of it all in! 









And what it's looking like with the seat up. I really think, looking at this, that i'm going to have to make a trim panel for it. The truck is up high, and will be higher, and I bought window tint this weekend too, for all the windows, even the top of the windshield, but that's all not going in for a while. It's still pretty visible. I did a walk by test, and you really can't see it unless you're looking for it, but it's parked in my driveway at home, and if someone is up looking at it, they're looking for something! So I'll need to address that as well as get my alarm in ASAP! 









View of the port!









View of the front! Head unit playing, and the sub knob on the bottom there in the cubby.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And now.....you know what time it is! Let's get it tested out with the DD-1! 









First was to see what our signal was like! 









Check this out! 40hz









THAT'S RIGHT! You're seeing that correctly! 100% clean signal from max output on the DEH-80PRS baby! 









Let's try 1khz









YES SIR! AGAIN!!









Now it's time to tune the amps. 4channel first!


















Then the BEAST!!









Finally a little battery shot! Still only one battery running! I really really need that bigger alt, and a tender. So I'll get on that between now and when I come back. As you can see on the head unit I'm only running around 13.3 when it's on, that should be much higher. So that's gonna have to be addressed.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Finally, what you've been waiting for......................VIDEOS!! 

I did these with my Sony Cybershot camera, POS! I should've done them with my phone cause I could've at least got them on youtube. Oh well, here you go! 




So that's it. 

So what are my impressions so far? 

Well I'm mildly satisfied. I think on the video I said I was pretty happy with it, and I think I am considering the type an caliber of install this is. I keep telling myself it's only temporary, and that's what it is. I'm happy with the 8's so far, considering this is the first time they've seen any power. They need to break in a little bit and get a little looser. That will help things out. The coaxials up front sound better than they ever have. Power does wonders! 

So for the system I'm overall pretty happy with it. I'm not the best at tuning and frankly don't have the time currently to get it dialed in 100%. But for where it is right now, I'm pretty good with it. Feels like the subs get a little loose on the lower notes and could be causing some distortion. I'll need to dial that in for sure. 

The only other thing I really need to address is the amp rattle. It's bad. I drove into work this morning and that was in the foreground over the bass. That's just not acceptable. So I'll address that with some rubber feet and a piece of mat on the back side of it. The other thing I'm NOT AT ALL happy with, is the fan on the 2500. That thing is so freaking loud when you start it up, it's gonna irritate the hell out of me. I'm gonna have to do something about that or I may have to switch up equipment. It's that bad. Maybe I can change the fan in it, I don't know. But if that's just the way they are, I'm gonna have two of these monsters in here soon, and it's gonna sound like a damn jet liner going by when I turn them on! 

So those are really the only issues thus far. There's really nothing left for this except to get that second battery connected. I was going to use the buss bars I got with the batteries, but due to the way they're installed, I can't use them. I need them to be about another 1/4 - 3/8" apart for the bars to fit. So, I'll do it the old fashioned way, or I"ll make my own bars. I have the stock, just need to do it. 

That's it for this project. I'll update when I have more of the little stuff done, but from here on out, I'll be doing the other main projects for the main build! It gets REALLY REAL from here on out! 

I go on vacation Wednesday to Friday, then again, next Wednesday through August 2nd. When I get back from that second trip, the sub enclosure will then begin! 

Thanks for checking it out guys! Hope you liked it!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Hey Scoot, I can see a big grin on your face....you're all proud

Sit back and let it marinate for awhile:laugh:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Almost forgot my assistant for all this! 

This is my 11 month old Boxer Grace. I'm training her to be out front and not be on leash, but right now I have her on a 20' leash so she knows when she gets to the end of the yard, she can't go any further. She's so fun! Anyway, she hung out with me all day yesterday out front while I did all this work!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

trojan fan said:


> Hey Scoot, I can see a big grin on your face....you're all proud
> 
> Sit back and let it marinate for awhile:laugh:


I am proud of it. Happy with it for the most part too. Just gotta get it fine tuned a little bit though. It should sound a little better than it does.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

Nice work! What are your thoughts on the Rubicons so far?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Just started working with them, so I don't have much to report but they seem pretty clean so far. I'll know more in the next few days.


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## cnut334 (Oct 17, 2009)

scooter99 said:


> Just started working with them, so I don't have much to report but they seem pretty clean so far. I'll know more in the next few days.


Thanks!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So as I think I said in one of the video's, the 1.2500D is rattling like crazy. I had a few people I know check them and non reported any rattles and two of the four I checked with have theirs on the box similar to my set up. The other issue i had was when it's cold in the morning it has a whine when starting, assuming an internal fan maybe, that sounds literally like an airliner taking off for about 30 seconds to a minute till the amp warms up. Then it's quiet. 

So I emailed the place I bought it from and they said just send it back to us and we'll replace it with a brand new one. So I'm gonna re tune it all tonight and get the 1.1600D in there to replace the 1.2500D with. I'll deal with the rest when I get home Saturday. Nice that it's seeming that it's gonna be an easy replacement. 

I'm also going to pick up some 1/0 ga lugs tonight on the way home and get my second battery hooked up. 

More to come later!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Good job, man!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks man!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's what's going down. I had to pull the 1.2500, it was rattling like crazy and had a crazy high pitched sound at first start up. So it's going back. Got the 1.1600D in and tuned and working great. I also had to rewire a couple things cause the 1.2500D took 1/0 ga inputs and this one takes 4ga inputs. Got the second battery hooked up, and I think we're good to go. Not gonna explain too much, just show some pics. 

From this









To this


















Couple cables to connect the batteries









an extra for a ground









heat shrunk









Done



























Floating voltage


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Got myself a new battery tender









Voltage after letting it sit a bit









And after over night sitting. Still needs more charging time. Just don't have any right now.









Some daytime pics of the new wiring. Not as nice, but it never is when you have to change things out. Oh well



























Gain only about 60-65% up


















Little video.


That's it, I'm off for a little camping trip! See you all in a few days!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

WOW!!! scooter, I'm impressed, you do need a little vacation after all the work you put into that bad boy....enjoy!!!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

where is everyone I'm i the only one following this build

Must be a sign of the times:laugh:


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## m0sdef (Nov 16, 2010)

Nice build for something thats temporary!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Where is everyone


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Not gonna be much to post on for a couple weeks. Just got back from camping tonight, and I'm gonna have to get on some stuff.

The temp box, while it's working, is gonna have to get nixed soon. My wife isn't happy, and frankly, neither am I. While the box only pushed the seat forward about 3" total, it's a big 3" for my boxer who lays on the floor. It was a very uncomfortable and cramped 2 hour car ride on Wednesday and today. So that's just not going to work for very long. 

So, when I get back from my next vacation on August 2nd, I'm going to get started on the center console box. That will get that temp box out of the back seat. 

Aside of that, there will be much going on when I get back from vacation. 

Be patient, more to come in the next few weeks!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Dude everyone fell off the bandwagon

My advice would be, get it all done , take some pics along the way then post a complete build....Bing style

Is there any good installers in your town that could help you out

PS....what ever became of that civic?


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

We're here, still looking.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i browse through all the time. just don't have much to say. everything looks great though. hopefully you can get it figured out soon


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I guess it's been a minute since I updated anything last. Pretty much everything is the same, except the drivers. I was having some issues with the 4 12's fitting with a 4th order so I decided to make things a little more simple for me. I traded the 4 DC Audio M2 Lvl 4 12's for a pair of DC Audio M2 XL 15's. These are rated higher in wattage, and the enclosure dimensions will be a little bit less and provide a bit more breathing room as far as space constraints go. So it solves my issues. 

Here they are:


















Baskets are white, but chipped up a little bit (cause they're used baskets with new parts). But a little paint will take care of that just fine. I'm probably going to leave them white too. I have cosmetic plans for the white look. 

So here's the enclosure to go with it:


















Plexi top that will only be seen if you open the truck box lid.









Also recently got the 2 DC Audio lvl 2 8's swapped out for a DC Audio Lvl 3 10. This will go in for the front mid bass. This picture shows it with the 15's, got em on the same day obviously. 









I think you've all see the design for it. If not here's a quick little drawing for it. It'll replace the center seat in the front bench. Mid bass will face forward, as of now. Might change this up a bit. 

This is with the 2 8's, but it will be the same basic design with the arm rest on top so it looks and can be functional like a seat.









Then this is how it will change to fit the 10.









Let's see what else! Oh yeah, GOT WOOD!?!









I've got 7 sheets of 3/4" Birch on there, with 4 sheets of 1/2" birch as well. But 2 sheets of the 3/4" and 3 sheets of 1/2" are being used for a shelf I've been asked to build for my fitness center. Anything left from it is mine to use for whatever. The other 5 and 1 sheets will be for the Sub enclosure and the doors. I also have a second sheet of 1/2" on the side of the house. Those will be used for the door build up. 

Last update was me trying to figure out how to run all this. I have no processor, like a bit one, or RF 3sixty.3, or anything like that. Frankly right now I don't have the money to buy one so I'm not going to. I have the Pioneer DEH-80PRS which is a bad ass unit btw. However, I have 7 amps going in, and only 3 sets of pre outs to work with. Splitting all the signals will just be a nightmare and I'm sure I'll loose signal voltage as well. 

The head unit gives me 5v preouts, which is pretty decent I think. But I decided, with the help of a buddy from another site, on using a line driver to boost the signal a bit. Well, sort of. Here's how it's going to work, if you can follow along:

Front stage is going to be:
4 - Soundstream Pro Bullet Tweets
1 - Soundstream Rubicon 2.450 Tweet Amp
8 - Soundstream Pro 4ohm 6.5" Mid Range
2 - Soundstream Rubicon 4.600 Mid Range Amps
1 - DC Audio Lvl 3 10" D2 Mid Bass 
1 - Soundstream Rubicon 1.1600D Mid Bass Amp

Now if you're counting that's 4 amps for the front stage. So I'm going to boost that front signal off the head unit using an AudioControl Matrix Plus. It's a line driver with 3 sets of preouts. This will boost the signal for all the amps. How when I still need another set of preouts you ask? Well I don't! 

I have 2 channels for the tweets, 2 channel amp. I have 2 channels for the mid bass, mono amp which will go from 2 channels into one channel into the amp. The tricky part is the mid range amps. The driver side 4 channel amp will be set in 2 channel input mode, and will get a single channel out of the L Channel on the Matrix Plus and split into two channels to go into the amp. Same with the Passenger side only out of the R channel on the Matrix Plus. 

Rear fill will consist of:
4 - Soundstream Tarantula SST6.5 Coaxials (2 per door)
1 - Soundstream Rubicon 4.500 (2 channel input mode)

Rear fill will get the signal out of the rear channels on the head unit. 

Subs will consist of:
2 - DC Audio XL D1 15's (1ohm load) 
2 - Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500D strapped 

Subs will get the signal out of the sub channels on the head unit into the master sub amp. Then a pass thru from the master amp to the slave amp. 

I still need a few things for all the equipment to be "in hand" but for the most part I'm good to go. I have 6 of the 8 front mid ranges so I'll need another set of those. I need a second 4.600 for those, and I need a 1.2500D for the subs. I also need the coaxials for the rear, but I'm not pressed to get those atm. I'll address those when I get the front done. 

Next up to do, finish the shelf I'm working on, and start on the sub enclosure. The cutoffs from the sub enclosure will be used for the center console. 

So that's about it. Now you guys are caught up!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

hey, how do you like the rubicon amps? i keep seeing them used around and don't really get a good response. they look to have a good quality build to them and i like the size. mainly because i'm looking for big power without huge footprint. love the idea for "midbass"


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

The Rubicons are pretty good for a lower priced amp. I thought the 1.1600 did a kick ass job with the 2 8's. They were so low. Course I've never heard a 150db set up, but I thought it got pretty damn loud and low. I was personally impressed. Course keep in mind I'm just a complete rookie with all this. I build, I love to build, but when you get to the tuning and the down and dirty of it all, I'm so far from knowledgeable it's a little embarrassing! 

However that being said, I tuned the 1.1600D and the 4.500 with the DD-1 and the 1600 was turned to about 75% without clipping. Never got a true reading on how much it put out cause again, I'm just not knowledgeable with it, but when I get things seriously going in, I'll be sure to get that done. 

The 4.500 seems to do really really well. I have it hooked up to a pair of Alpine Type S 6.5" coaxials up front and they sound pretty damn well. I get no noise from the amp at all. On the rear channels, I have the set of 6.5" mid bass and bullet tweet (what's going up front in the doors eventually) and they absolutely get down on this amp. So I'd have to say for a "budget amp" I'm very pleased with the Rubicons. 

As far as how they're made. Seem to be done pretty well. Not overly thrilled with the end caps, (silver part) cause they're plastic and seem to be a little on the flimsy side. The back panel seems a little thin and flexible as well. I think that's what happened with my 1.2500D and the vibrations etc. I'm thinking that if that's an issue with others, I may be able to get some thin deadener and maybe squeeze it in on the inside of the amp on that back panel. Hopefully that will help eliminate it. 

Looks wise, they look freaking awesome! The metallic blue paint on the case looks even better in person. Matter of fact I'll most likely be using that in other parts of the build. It just looks that good. The silver along side of it, really makes the metallic in the blue paint pop well. The one thing I like about the amps also, although a little detail, is the turn on led. It's not blue, it's not red, but it's white. You'd think with it being white it'd be really bright, but it truly isn't and that to me is a nice subtle touch! 

Edit: sorry I forgot about the footprint. The footprint on these is still pretty good sized. By that I mean they're still on the large side. I'll run it down. The tweeter amp I'm using is a 2.450 and it's 17.75". The two 4.600's I'm using for the mid range are 15.5", the 4.500 for the rear fill is 13.875", the mid bass amp 1.1600D is 15.75", and the two 1.2500D sub amps are 21" long. The 4 channels aren't bad but you look at the others and you add on at least 2" on either side for wires and rca's etc and it's quite the task in mounting them realistically, unless you have a show vehicle and a garage to put it in, where you don't have to "hide" them all. For me it's going to be a task to get them in. I have some tricks up my sleeve, but even then, it's still going to be a PITA! So not extremely happy with the footprint, but it's not terrible either. 

So that's really about the best I can do on describing what I think about them. I'm so far pleased at how the perform and how they look. Overall, I'd probably buy them again for another build. Matter of fact I probably will when and if we ever decide our car situation. Until then I'll be happy with the stuff I have here and the other pieces I'll be soon adding to the collection! 

Hope that helps.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

it does actually. i'm only going to be running a big mono, strong 4 channel and a jbl ms8 with one group 45 agm in the rear and a group 48/91 battery up front. i'm not going to be running gobs of power like you, just a solid front stage and substage with a little rear fill off the ms8 channels. 

still looking into the rubicons. i've used the picasso before and didn't like the looks whatsoever but love your blue.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ya I love the blue. It really looks alot better in person. If you can see it in person, do it.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Hey scoot!....are you sure you have all your ducks inline for the do-over, rebuild, phase 2 or what ever you want to call it.....simple is more in your comfort zone, you have some great ideas, but the execution of them falls short....just saying

save your money and buy the kids some toys:laugh:


GOOD LUCK!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

You must not have read, shocking, where I posted the wood and that I was going to start on the sub enclosure after I finish the shelf I'm building! I have to make the money in order to have the money! 

No I don't have all my equipment, I'm still missing a couple of amps, and a set of mid ranges for the front. But, I have enough to get started, and that's what I'm doing in the next week or so. Starting the sub enclosure. It's pretty much the biggest part of the build, so I'm starting there.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> You must not have read, shocking, where I posted the wood and that I was going to start on the sub enclosure after I finish the shelf I'm building! I have to make the money in order to have the money!
> 
> No I don't have all my equipment, I'm still missing a couple of amps, and a set of mid ranges for the front. But, I have enough to get started, and that's what I'm doing in the next week or so. Starting the sub enclosure. It's pretty much the biggest part of the build, so I'm starting there.



What EXACTLY is it that you're looking for in a car audio system(build)

Something is not wired right here:laugh:

seems like the wagon went empty


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

**** dude, you're going to need to beef up the suspension after you install that box:beerchug:

Looks like a lot of overkill


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Good thing it's a 1ton truck then huh!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

I found something the kids might need when they're out 4x4ing in the 1 ton

Hard Hat Ear Muffs in Stock - ULINE


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Well for starters the 15's won't be on when the kids are in the truck. Those are strictly for Daddy's enjoyment! Mamma hates loud bass, and I'd like to keep my kids eardrums intact. The mid bass will give enough bass to be pleasant for everyone. Thanks for the suggestion though. 

Besides that, it's too damned expensive to take this thing off roading! It'll be to tow a trailer when we go camping, or something else fun we need for the whole family, all 4 of us, plus our two dogs.


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## BigEasy (Feb 13, 2011)

Keep up the good work! You have my gears turning for my powerstroke!


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Finally!!! A build on a crewcab OBS. I got real excited when i found this. Ive been working on my 92 crewcab dually that i swapped a cummins into. I had all the same issues on a smaller scale. No room forsubs or amps. Thought about the toolbox idea when i did my 89 ext cab a fewyears ago. I ended up making 2" spacers to raise the rear seat to mount the amps under. Gave lotsa room. Still havent solved the sub issue. Im 6'7" so my seat is back all the way and that leaves no room to scoot rear seat forward. I actually just had the idea of putting two 8s in each lower door for sub/ midbass. Didnt want to buy any new stuff tho. Anyhow i didnt see anything mentioned about sound deadening. You ARE going to deaden that 18 yr old tin can right? Im EXTREMELY anxious to se yourdoor panels too! Lets get to it!


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Im also very excited youre using tne soundstream stuff. Ive wanted SS since i got into car audio 23 yrs ago. My buddy had the rubicons in his old car and liked them real well. I think theyre just gorgeous. He and ihave been talking about using those 6.5s u have. Im anxious to knowyour opinion on them. You never commented on how they sounded in your outside setup. Those tweeters are awesome looking.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Couple things, first thanks for commenting it's much appreciated. 

Pretty much I have to do a blow through for basically the same reasons you have. I have 2 dogs now, and I need to retain that space on the floor for them in the back seat. So that seat can't even come up a couple inches, as I've figured out with this latest "temp build". I thought about doing a center console build for a sub, but it's just not gonna give me the bass I want. This isn't going to be much of an SQ set up obviously. But I want it clean sounding from mid range, mid bass, and tweets. But when it comes to the bass I want it deep, low, loud, and vibrating everything including your teeth. It's just what I like so I figured why fight it. 

I am going to get pretty custom with this and that's why it's going to take so long. Other reason being, I have limited time to work on it. 

The ss mids and tweet I have in the outside set up are awesome! I'm extremely happy with them, and I'm excited to hear what they do in the doors with 4 mids and 2 tweets each door. They were very clear and clean sounding and so much louder than when I just had them on the head unit last time. I'd recommend them at this point for a nice inexpensive clean sounding speaker. However, there is also the Crescendo pro speakers that are only about $2.00 more per and they're obviously more proven than these. 

As far as deadener, yes I'm going to deaden it. I'll most likely start doing it as I go. I just don't have enough deadener, I have some, to do the whole truck and frankly it's going to be difficult to strip the truck and deaden it all at once. Although I think I have enough to do the floor on it's own, we'll see maybe I'll just jump in and do that. But yes, she rattles like crazy so she's gonna get a layer at least if not 2 or more. 

I think 2 8's in that lower front door would be good for you. If you wanted to get a little custom, you could take that center 20 bench seat out and make it into a sub box. That would retain your current set up as far as stock sitting and give you good bass right there next to you. I'm doing a 10" sub for mid bass up front in that seat myself. 

Hope that answers your questions. Have anymore give me a shout I'm happy to help as much as I can. I'm going to take a couple layout pics on the doors today, and I think I may end up starting that project here in the next couple of days. Stay tuned and thanks for checking in!


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Wow speedy response! Thanks. I have one of those conversion style custom seats upfront. Could do the center console but there are rare occassions i seat six people in it. Now my 89 ext cab i didjust that. It had buckets with the center plastic console. I made a downfire ported box for an MA Audio DXI10 then cut the factory console to slip over the front. A quick glance in looks factory. Minus the box protruding clear to the back seat! I did some real rough calculations on my front doors. Unless i cut the map pocket area out to use some inside space for volume i can only get around .4 cu.ft. not quite enough for two each door but one. I did a full deadening in mine. The MLV really sealed the deal! Definately dont omit that in your build. My current plan was todo a simple down firing sealed box for another dxi 10 to go in between the front and rear seat. My daughters in a carseat so that space is available. For a few years anyhow... im definately interested in your door panel designs!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I actually have a slow morning, doing laundry and stuff while the wifey is making breakfast etc. So in between I'm checking sites etc. I'm actually about to go out and do a quick layout on the door. I'll post pics later.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok so here's a little update. I'm working on the door layout and how I want it to be as well as what I"m able to do as far as space. I think I've got it nailed down, but the layout of the mid ranges I still need to tweak a little. Let's get started.

The objective for the doors is this: 4 6.5" mid ranges, 2 bullet tweets, and 1 4ch amplifier. 

Here's the door, untouched, blank slate.









Friday I did a little layout using the speaker grills, and I'm not sure that I'm using those in the final build, but it's what I thought would be the best way to visualize where they're gonna layout. This is what I came up with:

Looking at the door, I figured there were two ways to get these mids in there. One straight line across the bottom, or an "L" shaped line up in the corner. 









I got to thinking cause I was going to put the amp where that cubby is in the middle left of the door. Problem is this. The door handle is there in the middle, and unless I go to an actuator for the front doors, they have to stay here, and they have a pretty bulky mechanism behind the panel there between the handle and that cubby. So the amp there is a no go cause it would fit but I'd have no room for wires to hook up. 

So I sketched this up, cause I didn't have time to go out and change it up. I'd already stripped the grills off. But this is what I came up with as a drawing.









Now looking at it, the pics didn't come out all that great cause of the sun, but this is basically what it will be like in reality.









What it will look like inside the cabin.


















You can see the amp is a little tight here, but only cause it's angled up at the top cause of the bulge. It'll sit about 2" flatter and clearance won't be a problem when it's built.









Then there's this, again can't see real well, but instead of the two mid ranges on the bottom going along the bottom of the door, stacking them to go up the door. It doesn't look straight but it would be when this gets done. The tweeters would go side by side as well to allow that to happen. This would also allow me to move the amp more towards the middle and balance the weight more to the middle of the door. The only thing it does do, is make a blank space at the back side of the door cause nothing would be there. Not sure what I could put there, if anything, I just don't want it to look like it's missing something. 









I took the amp off cause of that pocket, but it would go centered on the door. 

So what does everyone think? I personally like the balance of the first one, where the mids are all going the same direction, horizontally, but I worry about the weight of the amp on the door at the end like that, and as well the limited space for wires etc. Would it be worth it to move one of the mids down on the other side of the amp to fill that space, or maybe I just use one of these grills to mold over and make the spider template logo. 

Suggestions please?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Hey man!
IIRC it kinda rains a bit in your area and I would worry about getting the amp wet, when entering/exiting the vehicle.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm planning to cover it with plexi, put fans behind it for ventilation, and I don't daily this so it wouldn't get much if any rain on it. I did think about that though. My plan is to make a wood or fiberglass panel for the door itself, then these things will attach to it, and that should stop any moisture from getting in from the inside of the door either.


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Ok that is ALOT to cram inthat door. Let me say this. I fully matted my door. Sealed the holes with.25" plywood and put a single layer of MLV on the inner structure and the doors freakin heavy! I only added what? 15 pounds? Youdbe adding every bit of 80 between deadening and the equipment. My personal advice is not putting the amp inthe door... though it would look very sweet! Now since this obviously is not being designed for goo imaging blah blah blah what about one tweeter on tne kickpanel facing up and one on the dash both in custom pods? That would declutter the door and save weight. My opinion is then do the mids in the L shape to keep them as far forward as possible.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yeah, I'm thinking that way already. I'm most worried about the weight that amp is gonna put on there. I may raise the front seat up a bit and make a drawer in there instead. I could do the mids in an L shape, and still get the tweets side by side up close to the switch panel in the door. 

I'll do some more thinking on this.


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

Was thinking on my way home from work. I had the idea of putting my amps on the back doors. That idea might be an option for you. Or possibly under the back seat with some 1" spacers. I used 2" on mine but didnt really need that much.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm going to be putting components in the rear doors. Here's what I've got going in and my plan. 

I've got the 4 mid ranges per door powered by a 4.600 per door. So two of those, which were going to be in each front door with the mids. 

Then I have 2 of the bullet tweets which are going to be powered by a 4.500. I'm going to be doing 2 sets of comps for the back doors, not two per door, but one set per door. Those will be powered by a 2.450, which I have is why I'm using that. My plan for those amps was to lift the rear seat a few inches, build a drawer to slide the amps out for tuning and work etc. 

Then I've got a DC 10" sub for mid bass between the front seats in the center console seat. That will be powered by a 1.1600. 

The subs are 2 15's which will be powered by a 1.2500 amp per sub. I'm going to take the rear seat back, rebuild it to house those two amps, as well as the 1.1600. 

The rear wall will be available, but I'd rather not put anything on it cause my guess is anything on that wall will get rattled to hell! But it's not out of the question. 

For the 4.600's, if I can't get the doors or hinges beefed up, then I'll probably raise the front seat a few inches and do the same type of drawers under those as I'm doing under the rear bench. Another thought that was brought up, was gutting the front seat backs, and doing a mount in those as well. 

I have some ideas floating around, but I have to figure out what and how to do the beefing up of the front doors. 

LOTS OF GEAR TO GO IN!


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## 89BLUE7.3 (Jun 6, 2011)

The KISS method never made any sense to you did it?


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Nope! I'm not very conventional! LOL


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

89BLUE7.3 said:


> The KISS method never made any sense to you did it?


Exactly....IMO he should stay within his skill set



scooter99 said:


> Nope! I'm not very conventional! LOL


That's the whole problem...:laugh:


What happened to SQ....this thing is turning into a SPL machine

Do the kids have their earplugs ready


PS....where have you been?....did the wife put you in timeout...J/K


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

Tell you what. I know you seek for and appreciate our views, otherwise I'd shut it. Honestly though, out of the potential scenarios you showed us, I like this one the best:


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

n_olympios said:


> Tell you what. I know you seek for and appreciate our views, otherwise I'd shut it. Honestly though, out of the potential scenarios you showed us, I like this one the best:


Thanks for your input. It is appreciated. That's the way I'm leaning too. Seems to flow the best.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

And for the record I never said this was an sq build. I want it loud, able to be low, and sound clean as well.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

My post was obviously intended as a harmless joke.  Of course it's your build and you should do it how you want, not how we do. 

Having said that, I think (and this is me being serious for a change) that you can get it low and loud without so many billet tweeters. :blush:


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

n_olympios said:


> Tell you what. I know you seek for and appreciate our views, otherwise I'd shut it. Honestly though, out of the potential scenarios you showed us, I like this one the best:



x2...Less is more


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> And for the record I never said this was an sq build. I want it loud, able to be low, and sound clean as well.



Do the children get a say in the matter


Where is their video system


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I know. My second post wasn't directed at you. Its directed at a certain person who doesn't pay attention when I explain things, then turns around and tries to poke the bear. 

All my plans have been discussed with guys who compete regularly, in spl mainly, and they've approved of my equipment selection for what I want. So I'm pretty comfortable with where the plan is headed.


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

scooter99 said:


> tries to poke the bear.



Hey Scoot, I like to poke the peach, but poke the bear, what does that mean

Does the wife like the BASS

PS.....what ever happened to that other 80 page build


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ok here goes! Check this out! 

Got the Box out and prepped it up! This has to be done before anything else can be built inside of it or for it. Some different views.



























Got it tapped up and then drew my line. I decided on a 1/2", but I probably should've gone more like 1". Oh well. 




































Now, on the back of the truck is not a bad place to do it, however, it's just too tall. So I decided to put it on some sawhorses to bring it down more to my level. This does tell me, however, that when this is all said and done, I'll be able to load it into the truck pretty easily from the saw horses! But, that won't be for a while I'm sure! 


















Now it's time for some fun! Safe fun, but fun! Got the gloves, got the safety glasses, don't need any metal in the eyes. And then the good ole trusty bosch grinder! This is a good tool!


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then fun ensued, and this was the result! 









Let me give you a little tip if you've never done this, as I hadn't! WEAR LONG SLEEVES AS WELL AS GLOVES AND GLASSES!! Anyway, moving on, here's what we were after!









Got some jagged edges that need addressing



























Little look at the amount of space I'm working with.

Depth









Width









Couldn't really get a good measurement on the height cause the centers bow a bit. So it's basically about 17 3/4" tall. 

Then I got the grinder again with a grinding wheel this time, and cleaned up the edges! Burrs are gone! 









Tried to get a sight down pic to show the line, but it isn't real clear. 









Another pic with the smoothed edges.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Then I decided that i still had some time before the family gets home, I thought I'd cut some wood! Love the smell of fresh cut wood! Especially Birch! 









Got my measurement for the bottom panel. This needs a couple angle cuts, which happen to be 45's. So I got my straight edge out, and measured it out. I need a final of 25" for my depth. Let's get to cutting! 









Yep, that'll do! Not bad with a straight edge and a hand saw! No table saw used here! 









Now for a little test fit. This is a little deceiving because of the bow in the middle. I pushed on it and laid it down and it fits perfectly. There is a little issue though. That is that I'm putting deadener on the inside of this box, between it and the enclosure, so I'll need to account for that. But I think it'll be fine. 









So that's what I got done tonight! I'm gonna see if I can get a couple things done here and there and get this thing built. We all know though, just building the enclosure is not the end of it. Lots of glasswork, and other odds and ends that need to be done. 

So, just as a refresher, this is what's going in:

DC Audio XL 15's









And this is what they're going in, what I'm building now:









More to come! Thanks for tuning in!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

looking good big guy. i have a table saw but i trust my hand with a circular much more than my table saw.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I have a table saw too, but it's a portable one on a stand and I don't really trust it's stability when doing a full sheet on my own. I trust my hand a lot more as well. Hopefully I can get a few more sheets cut in the up coming days!


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

As an owner of quite a few Ford P/U's, 77', 74', 83', 95' Lightning-loved that truck, 2004 SuperDuty-think I actually shed a few tears when I could no longer make the payments on it..lol, I've been looking forward to seeing the end results.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Yea the more I work on her, the more I love driving her! I drove it to my daughters soccer game yesterday cause I had to take the bench I built to their game, wouldn't fit in the civic. It just feels so solid now, the brakes work so that worry is gone, ESPECIALLY with the kids and dogs in the truck. I have the power steering issue to fix, but it's getting quieter. 

I put some different fluid in there, and it immediately got quieter. I'm thinking about draining it, and putting that in there and seeing if that helps. I really don't wanna have to take it out. I started to the other night and getting that pulley off was a pain in the ass so I said EFF it I'll do it on a weekend when I have more time. Topped it off, cause I sucked some of the fluid out with a suction syringe, and now it's quieter than when I started. If I get that fixed, I"M FREAKING ECSTATIC! 

I have some other things I'd like to get to so she's running better, but otherwise she's a solid ass truck! Suspension should be here any day too. I still need some U code springs (not V codes that I thought I needed), and a set of B codes for the rear so the suspension can't get done till I find those. But after that it's all audio, all paint, all cosmetic! Maybe some new wheels somewhere in there. 

Should be getting some work done this week! 

BTW, for those of you who have kept up on me, we are now keeping the civic until pay off. We've decided we need to get out of our neighborhood, and while finding a new house and going through that process, buying a car is not in the best interest of that. So we've decided to just keep it, pay it off in the next year or two and then revisit a car situation then. We have the truck for us all to go around in, which is running 100x's better than before, and so the pressure is off of that. Truck still get's priority though!


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

Well the body looks in damn good shape, the interior too. Mostly the fords loved to rust in the rear wheel well arches(mine did anyway), and those stupid aluminum cowls on the older ones, paint would never stick to them.

Having the crew cab is awesome though, harder to find in older trucks, cause most were abused like hell as company trucks. You got a nice base to start with, should be great when it's done.

I remember when I was working on my 74', I tried to change out the p/s pump, it was a debackle trying to find the right puller to get the pulley off the pump, sound like the same problem. The wrong one started to bend the pulley groove on mine, this was back in like 91-92' when I was in high school and didn't know much about working on cars though..lol


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

How many MPG is that bad boy getting


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

SoulMan76 said:


> Well the body looks in damn good shape, the interior too. Mostly the fords loved to rust in the rear wheel well arches(mine did anyway), and those stupid aluminum cowls on the older ones, paint would never stick to them.
> 
> Having the crew cab is awesome though, harder to find in older trucks, cause most were abused like hell as company trucks. You got a nice base to start with, should be great when it's done.
> 
> I remember when I was working on my 74', I tried to change out the p/s pump, it was a debackle trying to find the right puller to get the pulley off the pump, sound like the same problem. The wrong one started to bend the pulley groove on mine, this was back in like 91-92' when I was in high school and didn't know much about working on cars though..lol


Surprisingly on this one, there isn't much rust. Some frame rust that needs to be addressed, but nothing serious what so ever. I'll tackle all that at some point. 

I love my crew cab. Especially with 2 kids, and now 2 dogs to cart around, the room is priceless. I could never have another truck that wasn't a crew cab. 

I actually love working on it, cause it's so wide open and easy to work on for the most part. The PS will be a pill but I'll get it done I'm sure. I still think I may go ahead and drain the pump and then re fill with different fluid. I'm crossing fingers that it will do the trick cause I really don't want to have to change it out. But if I do I do.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

trojan fan said:


> How many MPG is that bad boy getting


Not many!


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

scooter99 said:


> Surprisingly on this one, there isn't much rust. Some frame rust that needs to be addressed, but nothing serious what so ever. I'll tackle all that at some point.
> 
> I love my crew cab. Especially with 2 kids, and now 2 dogs to cart around, the room is priceless. I could never have another truck that wasn't a crew cab.
> 
> I actually love working on it, cause it's so wide open and easy to work on for the most part. The PS will be a pill but I'll get it done I'm sure. I still think I may go ahead and drain the pump and then re fill with different fluid. I'm crossing fingers that it will do the trick cause I really don't want to have to change it out. But if I do I do.


The wife can't understand why men like working on their cars..it's a guy thing I try to tell her...but I get the  LOL

I'm in the middle of moving to a house that has a garage w/ HEAT!, after not having one for 15 years, I am super excited to be able to work on my car out of the damn elements for once.

I'll definitely be watching your progress here.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

I would love a house with a dedicated garage shop. My wife and I are looking at houses with 3 car garages cause we have our two cars, and then this truck. Then she tells me this, and I QUOTE "the truck won't fit in the garage, but you could use that portion for your shop and the truck can be parked in front so we don't have to play the car shuffle every day to get our cars out"! We were in the car then and I almost swerved into traffic I was so surprised! That actually came out of MY WIFE'S mouth! 

Anyway, I was hoping to get some stuff done last night, however, my boxer decided a whole bar of soap would be a good snack to have so I was on dog watch instead. She seems better today, but there was a lot of throwing up among other things last night! YUK! Probably back at doing something on Wednesday! 

Stay tuned!


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

BTW, one hell of a job you did on the civic,very nice.

I was LOL when I saw the amp mock ups, my wife does the same thing, plates on the ceiling where recessed lights will go, cardboard cutouts of the love seat and couch so she can position them where she wants..funny, but totally works.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks. I'm not sure if anything is going to happen with it or not now that we're keeping it. My focus is the truck at this point, so I don't know. 

I can usually envision things but when you're working with such a small space, I have to make sure it'll all fit. I think that was before I started really learning sketch up too. Cause now I do it all on sketch up and it help so much. To know what it's going to look like and if it will fit a certain way etc. Big time help!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

SoulMan76 said:


> BTW, one hell of a job you did on the civic,very nice


 Hey scoot, I thought he was being facetious...sorry, my bad


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

So last I left off, I had cut the bottom board of the enclosure. But in order to really get this thing off the ground I had to get the back wall done. That would allow me to get the whole thing built out of the box, instead of going back and checking measurements and this and that. SO, that's what I got accomplished today. 

Problem was, I didn't exactly have the tools to do it. I'm doing a roofing job and my saw is up at the job which is 45 minutes away. So in order to not just waste the time I have, I decided to improvise! NOT ADVISED, but you can do it. Just not the safest way to do it. 

Got out the ole trusty Ridigd portable table saw. Obviously some of it is easy to do, but it's the freehand cuts that become a little more dangerous! Oh and Grace my boxer out to help! 









Ready to cut my piece. This was left over from the last time but it just needs a little trim to make it correct size. 









My French Bull Dog peaking out to attack Grace before I get busy! Also, not safe! 









See the little 5" slice in the back, that's what was cut off! 









Nice! 









Forgot to take pics of the next one but I had to free hand that one at 63 1/2". Within a 1/16" I think is ok at this point. I'll get it closer when I get more time and my skill saw. 









Next I cut the angles freehand. These were a little rougher! But it will work! 









Picture of the back wall and the bottom plate in the box just sitting there. Not a good pic. The picture is correct, but the box is on it's side. 









view with the lid open









So that's about it. I redid the number on the updated version of Torres and it was a bit off. Made some adjustments and I'm back on track. Not much going at a time, matter of fact at this rate I may be done cutting pieces by Christmas! LOL! No really! But I have to make the best of the time I have. 

That's it for tonight! Thanks!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Hey scoot, just checking on the progress....any 411 to share, since I seem to be one of the few that cares


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Other people care, you're just the only one standing by for me to say anything seems like. 

I actually just finished, yesterday, re roofing my brothers house. He had 3400+ square feet of roof to re do and that's what I've been doing the last 5 days. Tonight and tomorrow I'm helping my wife get our house cleaned up inside and out, a lot bigger job than you probably think, for my youngest daughters birthday party on Saturday. Then sunday we're doing family stuff. 

My tools are still at my brothers house, an hour away, and he's going to bring those on Saturday when he comes to the party, had to leave early yesterday to catch an event with my daughter that she really wanted me to be at, since I've been working super late every day and haven't spent much time with them lately. So after this weekend, things will settle down a bit and i'll get to get more progress done on the sub enclosure. 

Things should start progressing here a bit more next week. I hope.


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

trojan fan said:


> Hey scoot, just checking on the progress....any 411 to share, since I seem to be one of the few that cares


Not true, I've been checking his progress, but I guess I don't want to bother him with chit chat, less work gets done..LOL

But I know how it feels, my build log is slowly falling into the thread abyss..lol


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i'm always here watching. just don't have much to say since i don't see anything that needs a comment other than...


nice cuts you have there man. keep up with the clean job


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks guys. Ya I know there's not much to comment on, but I know you guys are still around. There'll be more to show in a few days.


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

scooter99 said:


> Thanks guys. Ya I know there's not much to comment on, but I know you guys are still around. There'll be more to show in a few days.


No rush..just hurry up huh..LOL


I know how it is, I haven't even been able to clean out my cupholders with this whole moving to a new house. I want to finish up some work on my soul, then try and get started on a super secret double probation build of my wifes santa fe. I want to make it stealth as can get it, so she has no Idea anything was done till she realizes it sounds a whole lot better, then she'll say.."Did you F" with my radio???" Who me?? Noooooo..


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Ya my wife get's a little nutty when I mess with her car. LOL


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

i too fall in the less comments section...


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Wow!...I rattled the cage and got the dogs barking


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## SoulMan76 (Aug 20, 2012)

"WHO LET THE DOGS OUT...WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF wuuWOOF"

CRAP! I have to try and get that stupid song out of my head now...LOL


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Did this thread crash and burn

....or has there been another change of direction:laugh:


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