# My ID OEM Review



## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I was finally able to get these installed in my front doors tonight. I only was able to listen to them for about a half of an hour with a few different cd's. The first thing that I did was run them for about 10 minutes without a high pass at about 1/2 volume from my 300/2 using the passives from my JL C5-650 components. 

I used an Old School Bass CD called "Bass 305" to limber them up. If you really want to test the low end of your system out this CD will reveal any shortcomings that you have as it is an all digital recording through the master and is produced very well. The recordings play everything from midbass to ultra low frequencies.

From the start these mids were very well mannered, smooth and blended seamlessly with the rest of my system. I turned my sub off so I could focus on the mids. 

Next, I listened to several tracks on Acoustic Alchemys' "Reference Point". This is another well recorded digital master by GRP. This CD has great guitars and kick drums. If you have your system dialed in you can feel where the instruments are in front of you and to the sides. The kick drum is so well recorded that on a good system you can hear the paper skin sound snap when it is struck. If you are having a bad day this CD will definately make you feel better.

The ID OEMs' image well and what I found most striking is that the midrange is fantastic!!! I hear everyone rave about the midbass that these things put out but they can sing. Vocals were clear and instuments had great detail, depth and realism. 

I have a center channel that consists of an MB Quart Premium 4" hooked to an Audio Control ESP-3 that is getting 150 watts rms from a JL 300/4. I flipped my center channel processor off and on so I could further evaluate the mids. However, I did most of my listening with the center channel on because that is how I am going to run it for everyday use. I was able to get excellent stereo separation with a strong center image out in front on the hood of my car. The stage was wide and had great depth.

Lastly, I listened briefly to a few tracks rom The Counting Crows , "August and Everything After". Another well recorded CD with lots of real instruments. I really enjoyed listening to track 10 because it has a nice piano and the lead singer from the Couting Crows unique voice will really test a midrange and tweeter. BTW I am currently running MB Quart QTD-25 tweeters in the A-Pillars. I have others to play with, but I have been running these for about a month and they do quite well in the A-Pillars off axis.

I will do further testing using my Autosound 2000 CD that has all of the tools necessary to tweak and tune and will post an update as they break in and I get more listening time. One thing to note is that I purchased and installed a new sub a couple of weeks ago that prompted me trying out these mids. It is an Image Dynamics IDQ 15V2 D2 and I absolutely love it. This is my first experience running Image Dynamics speakers and I am pretty impressed with their stuff at this point.

Here are a couple of pics of my install. Doors are well damped with Dynamat Extreme everywhere and have lots of sound insulation. They are very solid and quiet.


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## nickgonzo (Dec 22, 2005)

nice review!


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## Focalaudio (Oct 12, 2008)

Where do we get a set of these ID OEM drivers I keep hearing about? Let me know when you get a chance.

Thanks,
Jayson


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## nickgonzo (Dec 22, 2005)

hessdawg has the supply check the classified forums.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

just got mine today in the mail cant wait to install them....


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## ocuriel (Oct 7, 2005)

Anybody have the specs for these? Nice review.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

ocuriel said:


> Anybody have the specs for these? Nice review.


Qes: 0.489
Qms: 6.974
Qts: 0.457
Fs: 62.8Hz
Vas: 12.36L
Mms: 13.4g
Cms: 0.4793
Rms: 0.758
Re: 3.198ohm
BL: 5.88Tm
Sd: 134.8cm^2
Xmax: 6mm one way
Spl: 90db 1w/1m


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

It's been too cold to play with these and do any additional tuning. I did lower the crossover point to 63Hz @ 12db/octave versus 24db/octave and they handled it fine. I also switched the passive crossover network from my JL set to an OZ Audio 180cs set that I bought on e-bay.

I think that the tweeter is crossed over lower on the OZ Audio set so I am going to have to play with the volume of the tweeter a little bit.


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## jeff33702 (Dec 10, 2008)

Looking for a set of 6.5s for my rear doors, mainly for err. low-mid bass, if you know what I mean  would this be a good option?


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I think that they would do well as a dedicated midbass, but they are not the end all in that department. I would think that something like an SLS or a CDT E06+ would be better for a dedicated midbass because they have nearly double the XMAX of the ID OEM.

I have an extra set of ID OEMs that I purchased for my rear doors, but it has still been too cold to even think about installing them.

I have settled on 63HZ @24db as the crossover point for the ID OEMs in my front doors. They handle every bit of my JL 300/2.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Hey Bob, have you played with an 80Hz 12db/oct HP for them by chance? I used to do 63Hz, but after moving up to 80Hz I'm much happier with them. Granted my subs can play cleanly well above 100Hz so that does make things easier. Just some food for thought.


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## jeff33702 (Dec 10, 2008)

I ended up with a set of these - but I'm still tweaking. A little sloppy so far.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

jeff33702 said:


> I ended up with a set of these - but I'm still tweaking. A little sloppy so far.


In what respect are they sloppy? I always enjoy hearing people's thoughts on these drivers. I really love mine, but you have to remember that their pass band is so small that maybe I'm just in their "sweet spot." Mine only play from 80Hz - 250Hz.


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## jeff33702 (Dec 10, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> In what respect are they sloppy? I always enjoy hearing people's thoughts on these drivers. I really love mine, but you have to remember that their pass band is so small that maybe I'm just in their "sweet spot." Mine only play from 80Hz - 250Hz.


I'm far from an expert on these things (casual enthusiast) but they seem to either be easily over driven (set at 80Hz) or if backed down just a little, just muddy sounding. They add notably to the missing mid-bass range when turned on, but the mid-bass just seems to "creep" or isn't as accurate as the front speakers (which have lower mid-bass output, but the sound that does ome from them seems pretty tight).

That's as technical as I can put it.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

How do you have them installed and what vehicle? This is all very interesting to me. Maybe something is off somewhere and we can track it down on here. Or maybe you just don't care for these drivers which would be quite fine as well. But muddy/sloppy bass would be a comment I've yet to hear about the OEMs.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Boostedrex I have not rant them 80HZ at 12db yet. My 15" IDQ15 does not like to play that high in my vehicle as it gets boomy sounding. I have it crossed over at about 60Hz at 24db. The transfer function of my SUV makes it tough for me to find a sub that sounds right.

I have owned some of the nicest sounding 12's on the market, but could not get them to work in my car. I am patiently waiting on spring so that I can get a few install things cleaned up and some tuning.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

Nice review. I just got a set in the mail today. May be a little while before I install, but nice to know what to look for. Will post my impressions when the time comes.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

If it would stop freakin raining here for a few days i could get mine installed with my HAT L1 tweeters. I'll be running them 80hz - ~3k depending on where they best blend with the tweeters in my truck. Anxious to finally try these active.

AudioBob try the SI mag v4. I bet it would sound nice in your SUV up to easily 80 or 100Hz.


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

Are these the same drivers as the CX62 2ohm 150watt 6.5 midbasses? I have the CX62 and I never got around to installing my midranges or tweeters or my sub and have been driving around with only these 2 midbasses in my deadened doors that are sealed and I have always crossed mine at 45hz 12db slope. Maybe I'm crazy but without a sub I needed some way to get my low end fix.


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

AudioBob said:


> Boostedrex I have not rant them 80HZ at 12db yet. My 15" IDQ15 does not like to play that high in my vehicle as it gets boomy sounding. I have it crossed over at about 60Hz at 24db. The transfer function of my SUV makes it tough for me to find a sub that sounds right.
> 
> I have owned some of the nicest sounding 12's on the market, but could not get them to work in my car. I am patiently waiting on spring so that I can get a few install things cleaned up and some tuning.


You know what's funny I also happen to have an Image Dynamics 15" D4 sub but it was one of those OEM ones that look like the elemental designs subs that ID was selling on ebay a few years ago. I'm pretty sure it's rated at 650 watts and the most I've ever given it was 139 at 2 ohms and it was ridiculous. Couldn't imagine what it would have been like at 650 watts or 600 watts (can't remember the specs). I know it's not even close to being an IDQ but it's funny that we have similar stuff. Sort of. I've never run that in my current car though. It's a 98 Metro and I think that would be crazy. I plan to run a single IDQ10 if I ever finish the fiberglass enclosure for the hatch.

I put that ID OEM 15 in my girlfriend's brother's ext cab toyota pickup today and his amp was this tiny little Kenwood that was rated at 70Watts RMS bridged @ 4ohms and since it was dual 4ohm VC sub I had it wired for an 8 ohm load so it couldn't have been getting much power at all and it was still quite loud. I was amazed. I don't know what I'll ever do with this sub, it's a bit much for me I think. I was thinking maybe I'll use it in my garage when I get a house.

Sorry to get off topic. Carry on.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I really lik the IDQ15. Mine is a D2 wired in series to my 500/1. I had an OZ Audio ME15.2 and I am kicking myself for getting rid of it. The IDQ is the closest thing that I have found to the OZ.

The ID OEM is similar to the CX62 according to ID, but they are not exactly the same as the OEM was designed for marine use.


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## sotelomichael (Dec 2, 2008)

hmm I might go with some ID oem's on my next build, thanks


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## jeff33702 (Dec 10, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> How do you have them installed and what vehicle? This is all very interesting to me. Maybe something is off somewhere and we can track it down on here. Or maybe you just don't care for these drivers which would be quite fine as well. But muddy/sloppy bass would be a comment I've yet to hear about the OEMs.


Rear doors on Mazda 3 5-door (hatch). Floor and doors completely deadened.
I compared the fronts to the rears by diconnecting the tweeters on the front, setting the HU HPF the same (70Hz) front/rear and fading front/rear over and over while listening to different songs. I wish I had a more technical test for you guys, but this is what my ears are telling me: The fronts sound pretty tight/accurate in the mid-bass. The rears have "more" and "louder" mid-bass but sounds more like an ambient, non-accurate bass compared to the fronts. 

Amp is HD600/4 - so 150/ch. The only thing is that the passive x-over is still hooked up to the fronts - but as I understand it, that should not affect the mid-bass output.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

just finish installing my oems set them at 71hz/18 db with my doors fully deadened they get loud as hell so is midbass but cant say i like them right away bass response sound kinda stiff for me....maybe just a lil time for them to break in? giving them 75watts each.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Let them loosen up a little from a couple of weeks of play and report back.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

will do just cant help thinking i might be doin somtn wrong ...whats ur setting guys?


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

General consensus is that you can cross them at 2.5khz or lower if you have a tweet with that kind of range and anywhere from 65-100 on the low end.

As an update, I have them running off my home receiver connected to a Cox Jazz channel. Give them the rest of the week, then install this weekend. Pretty nice, even uncrossed.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

maloy said:


> will do just cant help thinking i might be doin somtn wrong ...whats ur setting guys?


The OEM's do need some break in time before they really "blossom" in terms of bass output. But after break in, watch out!


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> The OEM's do need some break in time before they really "blossom" in terms of bass output. But after break in, watch out!


i think mines starting to open up my side panels have been shaking crazy and my doors are well deadened any suggestions to limit this everytime the bass hits my whole door panel resonates


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Mass load the door panel. Mine are dead as can be.  Also, decouple the midbass from the door itself if at all possible.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

what you mean by decouple?


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

To use some sort of deadener between the speaker basket and the door panel. It helps stop the transfer of energy from the speaker to the door panel. A lot of people like to use non-hardening modeling clay. Dynamat or other sound deadening product works as well.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Thanks Bob. That was exactly what I was talking about.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

i see which one you prefer the clay or the dynamat? clay sounds easier to install ...


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## DonovanM (Nov 1, 2006)

I might get mine installed this weekend! 

Doors will be deadened but not sealed though. Gotta wait for a dollop of Second Skin in the mail!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

maloy said:


> i see which one you prefer the clay or the dynamat? clay sounds easier to install ...


I personally do non-hardening clay covered with a layer of Damplifier Pro. That way I don't have to worry about the clay melting and making a mess in the crap NorCal summers.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

i guess will do the clay thing....where can i get this,do they have this at home depot?


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I would look at a hobby shop and make sure that you get non-hardening modeling clay.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

ok thanks


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I got my Alum Neos and IDs in today and they are nice so far, but there's a brutal amount of sibilance on some recordings. Neos are a bit harsh at the moment, but the mids are nice. I have them partially foam baffled so I'm wondering if I'm losing anything. It's only to provide a little top/bottom protection from water, cut out total back and sides, but these things are so wide that it's tight around them (leaky doors).


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

How low do you have your neo's crossed over??? I have heard this from others when they try to cross them over low.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

They're as close as I can see to 2.5khz (small dial). I notice it on audiobooks mostly so far. I'm running with no eq of any sort though at the moment.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

lemme know how that combo works out for you, as im also looking to replace my current tweets(rsds)....im lookn at the vifa xt25 but i dunno if they gonna sound 
good of-axis???


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

XT25's are incredible tweets, but not off axis. They fall on their face pretty quick at anything more than 30 degrees off. If you can't get them pretty much on axis, then I'd go with something else.

As for the Seas neo's, try bumping the HP X-over up to 4KHz and the LP for the OEM's up to 2.5KHz or 3KHz. That should tame your sibilance issues.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I'd definitely like to move those crossover points, but with the JL 500/5 I think that'll just move the mids up, too , correct? Worth a shot anyway, but the IDs aren't great over 3, correct?


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

so what can u recomend for a soft dome similar to the vifas?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

releasedtruth said:


> I'd definitely like to move those crossover points, but with the JL 500/5 I think that'll just move the mids up, too , correct? Worth a shot anyway, but the IDs aren't great over 3, correct?


"Not that great" depends on the listener. It may or may not break up in that range but whether or not you hear it is something no one can tell you. You'll have to try it and see. I'm highly critical of the midrange to lower treble area. Prblems in that range irritate the crap out of me but I cen let some stuff slide on the extremes. You might be different.



maloy said:


> so what can u recomend for a soft dome similar to the vifas?


Hiquphons would be a good choice. If you can find some old Kicker ND25, ND25a, or R25s, Quart QTD25s, I even like some of the CDT Titaniums. Renaissance has a killer tweeter but I can't remember which model off the top of my head. It all depends on the space you have available and the budget you have.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I'm all for experimentation and appreciate the input. I'm probably running a bit too basic a system to really be able to maximize the quality of these drivers, but I'm sure we'll dial in something that'll work until more equip comes in.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

If the OEM's are off axis, I've found that they can play pretty safely up to almost 4KHz. But on axis, I didn't care for them much above 2.5KHz. Just my .02 on that one. 

Paul mentioned some really nice tweeters! Also, if you're on a budget you could look at the Seas neo textile. Or the Peerless HDS softdome. I've heard that one is simply amazing for the money. Sadly, I haven't had a chance to listent to them.

Also, anyone looking for some more ID OEM's let me know. I have a BNIB set and a used set that are both up for sale. $70 shipped for the used set and $80 shipped for the BNIB set.


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

hmmm..... ive read some good stuff about the peerless hds can u post me link to it thanks!


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

Come on man, you can look them up first. I'm new and all, too, but I look before I ask.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I give everyone a couple of "easy find" links before I start bitching.  LOL!

Peerless 810921, 1" Textile Dome HDS Tweeter from Madisound


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## maloy (Nov 30, 2008)

Boostedrex said:


> I give everyone a couple of "easy find" links before I start bitching.  LOL!
> 
> Peerless 810921, 1" Textile Dome HDS Tweeter from Madisound


thanks!


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## pieces (Dec 29, 2005)

AudioBob, mind if I ask where you are at?
I'm living in the N. KY/ Cincinnati region.
Always cool to find someone local.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

I live in NKY, Florence/Burlington area to be exact.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

The sibilance issue hasn't changed with adjusted crossover and it appears to be with the mid? Taking the mid out of the equation I don't hear it from the Seas. The mids seem really sharp at some frequencies, almost piercing. I've adjusted from 2.5-4khz at 24db with little change. Thoughts?


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

releasedtruth said:


> The sibilance issue hasn't changed with adjusted crossover and it appears to be with the mid? Taking the mid out of the equation I don't hear it from the Seas. The mids seem really sharp at some frequencies, almost piercing. I've adjusted from 2.5-4khz at 24db with little change. Thoughts?


Drop the crossover down to 1600 24db and see what happens. Also cut 250 and 800hz as much as you can to see if that helps. Do you have room for large format tweeters? If so the peerless hds is a nice match that can be crossed at 2khz and never break a sweat.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I wish I could go large format, but I have tiny sail panels. I had to make some serious trims to the Seas to get them in there, but I like them so far. I'll dial the crossover down and report back. Appreciate all your feedback.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I dialed it down to 1600Hz and I can't tell much difference, definitely still sharp Sssss. Need to listen for a while tomorrow and report back.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

Okay, I have everything installed and can offer my thoughts. I also tested using the Acoustic Alchemy cd (we have similar tastes) and it's pretty decent, but even after thorough breakin, the IDs sound hollow, almost like they're in a tunnel. Before you suggest sound deadening, my doors are both sealed with multiple layers of raammat on both inside skins, cascade deflex pads, 3/4" mdf spacers and pvc foam on outside skin. 

Open air they didn't have that sound and neither did the factory stereo, so I'm stumped. I thought it was an eq problem and I have a 3Sixty on order, but it's either the environment or the speaker. Thoughts, suggestions? They have awesome midbass and great potential if I can solve the problem.


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## CupCak3 (Jan 4, 2009)

do you have anything to kill the waves at the back of the driver?


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

Yes, sir, using deflex pads behind the drivers. I thought it might be phasing, but same effect either side in mono and checked wiring.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

Do you have another pair of woofers that you can switch them out with to see if it goes away??? I don't have any of the issues that you speak of with my install, but every car is different.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I have the set in the other car I suppose. Drove that ride yesterday, listened to the same cds, very different. Just Kappa Perfects, but they sang by comparison. Thought about trying one of those


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I'm starting to really feel like a pita here. Something odd is going on. Got in the car to drive to the store and everything was fantastic, underwater sound was gone. Not sure why, but wasn't complaining. Just got in the car a few min ago and when the pass door was opened, sound changed and wen't back to terrible. The connections are well-soldered in the doors, no chance of coming loose.

I just got a reply from a guy on another forum... It's a symptom of the BOSE head units in these cars. Have to turn it way up when the car is on to solve it, but do it every time. I'll test that theory.


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## Boo (Sep 21, 2008)

mine seems to have the same problem too. opening of the doors creates a diff sound.


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

Wow, I finally got to hear them the way it was meant to sound and it's great! Got in this morning and turned the HU up high, it crackled, clipped, lost sound, then came back with authority. Seas were totally tame and spot on. Yes, this BOSE system is pure crap and I'd love to drop in a DD pioneer nav, but that's a grand I don't have currently.


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## AudioBob (May 21, 2007)

What are you using as an interface between the factory Bose unit and the amps???


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## releasedtruth (Feb 1, 2009)

I am currently using...... nothing! as an interface. Bose outputs db so it's spliced to RCAs into the 500/5. I've been looking at a 3sixty.2, but I'm very pleased with the quality. HU output is almost completely flat. All the eq was done on board factory amp.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Boo said:


> mine seems to have the same problem too. opening of the doors creates a diff sound.


That sounds like a phasing issue to me.


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