# Subwoofer for outdoor mobile audio



## white (Jun 29, 2011)

I am looking for a sub that will be loud in an outdoors environment. The amp will be delivering 320watts rms at 4ohm. It needs to be a 10" driver due to space contraints on the mounting surface. I would like it to be sealed as well for fear of things including water getting into the port.

I originally posted this in the car audio section and received the following as options before they recommended that I head over here, given the enviroment the sub willbe playing in.

IDQ 10V3, Peerless XXLS 10, and The Dayton HO 10.

What are yalls thoughts? Appreciate any input you can give!


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

white said:


> I am looking for a sub that will be loud in an outdoors environment. The amp will be delivering 320watts rms at 4ohm. It needs to be a 10" driver due to space contraints on the mounting surface. I would like it to be sealed as well for fear of things including water getting into the port.
> 
> I originally posted this in the car audio section and received the following as options before they recommended that I head over here, given the enviroment the sub willbe playing in.
> 
> ...


Depends on your budget really. All of those are excellent subwoofers. 

The Dayton HO 10 likes to be ported, and is otherwise pretty inefficient. IMO the IDQ and the XXLS would get louder sealed. However, don't expect to much loud if you don't want to port any of them. Sealed boxes with absolutely no corner loading don't get very loud outdoors.


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## white (Jun 29, 2011)

OK, you have gone beyond my knowledge. What is corner loading?

Also, I am worried that I would not be able to build a proper ported box. I have zero experience with a ported box or tuning them


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

white said:


> OK, you have gone beyond my knowledge. What is corner loading?
> 
> Also, I am worried that I would not be able to build a proper ported box. I have zero experience with a ported box or tuning them


That's what I'm here for. See the link below in my signature. Just omit the details about boundary loading and room pressurization, and I can get something modeled and designed for you in no time. 

Corner loading, otherwise known as boundary loading, is a function through which a subwoofer's low frequency output is increased due to its proximity to the walls around it. For example, you will notice that indoors, if you place a subwoofer in the center of the room, it will not sound as loud as if you put it in the corner of a room where the corners "load" the sub output. Think of it kinda like a horn, where the corner of the room reflects the sound the sub makes back into the rest of the room at an amplified level. Outdoors, you don't have this function, so ported would be highly recommended.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Told ya man, ask in the right place and yee shall receive...


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Also, you may want to avoid paper cones and stick to poly or marine certified speakers like polk MM


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## white (Jun 29, 2011)

Appreciate the help guys. Some of the main things I want to keep in mind with this project is portability and ease of use. Wheel it up turn it on and let it rip. I would really like to do just an aux input to an amp connected to to a deep cycle battery. I have tried to stay away from the "cooler" boom box, but the frame and wheels make it an easy building platform (although not nearly as cool as full fiberglass).

If that is the chasis I end up using, I will build a wood box for the sub that would mount in the inside. As far as a port goes, would I be able to extend the port out of the box through the cooler wall (as I woulld have to for the driver itself)? I am not sure if the port needs to be flush or if the port could stick out a bit and have the same effect because it is the same length.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

white said:


> Appreciate the help guys. Some of the main things I want to keep in mind with this project is portability and ease of use. Wheel it up turn it on and let it rip. I would really like to do just an aux input to an amp connected to to a deep cycle battery. I have tried to stay away from the "cooler" boom box, but the frame and wheels make it an easy building platform (although not nearly as cool as full fiberglass).
> 
> If that is the chasis I end up using, I will build a wood box for the sub that would mount in the inside. As far as a port goes, would I be able to extend the port out of the box through the cooler wall (as I woulld have to for the driver itself)? I am not sure if the port needs to be flush or if the port could stick out a bit and have the same effect because it is the same length.


Port doesn't need to be flush. In fact, the entire port could be outside of the box. The only reason people don't do this is because it increases the space that the box takes up and can be a bit awkward.


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## white (Jun 29, 2011)

I posted this in the other forum... Not sure where you wanted me to put it.

Here are the parameters I could find for the ID 10v3-2:

1. Subwoofer's T/S parameters
Fs (Hz) - 22.70Hz 
Re (ohms) -.95 / 3.8 ohm 
Le (mH) - if available
Vas (liters) - 77.8713 L
Qes - .385
Qms - 4.14
Sd (cm2) - 350
Xmax -17mm

2. Max dimensions are 14"H x 25"L x 10"D

8. 320 Watts RMS
9. Amplifier's high pass/subsonic filter options including slope. Variable high-pass filter (15-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave) Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave)

10. Primary use is for outdoors (outdoor party system for softball games, tailgating, bbq's) Not sure what the best frequency to tune to is for this application. It doesn't need super loud just enough to be enjoyed by people around it.


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## XtremeRevolution (Dec 3, 2010)

All done. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1369640-post53.html


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