# 2019 Honda Ridgeline Black Edition



## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

This past summer we purchased our very first truck. After many months of test drives and dealer negotiations, we chose a black Honda Ridgeline. Yes, all you full size pickup owners are probably thinking "that isn't a truck". Rest assured, it does everything a truck can do, but in a smaller form factor.

As for the audio build. I'm keeping it simple as I can.

Gear.

Radio :
Factory Honda Radio.

Amps :
- Arc Audio PS8-50 (50wrms x 5 channels + 100wrms x 2 channels(bridged) + sub out)
This amp has a fully loaded PS8PRO with WIFI tuning and PSC controller support. 
- Arc Audio X2 450.4 (250wrms x2)
_Temporary amp until I find a very efficient 1k mono block I like_

Speakers :
Arc Audio RS 1.0, 3.0 and 6.0
Tweeters will be mounted in the factory locations - A-pillars
Midranges will be housed in a pair of Valicar Pods - secured to the Apillars on a swivel mount.
Midbasses will be mounted in the factory door location.

Subs :
Audio Frog GB10D2
Subs will be installed under the rear seats in a custom enclosure built by Skier(Apicella AutoSound)


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

This weekend I had 3 hours to play, so I decided to update the center channel.

Center Channel speaker swap out to an Arc Audio RS3.0

What you see here is an MDF base mold copied from the factory speaker. Used a 1/4" flush trim router bit to make an exact copy. I then cloned the first mold to another piece of of MDF but this time I changed the bearing to add 1/4" more width to achieve more surface area. From there, I transferred the second mold to a piece of cast acrylic. Used another router with a circle jig and a special circle cutting bit to make the 2-15/16" hole.

Fits 98% really well.

All that's left is to extend the wiring in the dash(tap+solder), foam seal the baffle that attaches to the factory grill and add a few layers of sound dampening to add some rigidity.

Stay tuned for the pillar Tweeter swap and Valicar pod installation next.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

I ordered the pods from Valicar back in December. Unfortunately, the grills didn't sit flush....no problem.
A little bit of measuring and fresh rabbeting bit and bearing -presto, fixed.
This was easier than sending them back for re-tooling.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

We owned the first gen Ridgeline and we really liked it. Looking forward to this!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Niebur3 said:


> We owned the first gen Ridgeline and we really liked it. Looking forward to this!


I loved that truck too, it was out of price range 12 years ago


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## xxx_busa (May 4, 2009)

Nice Truck - I have the Same


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Arc's PSC controller is going in the useless sunglasses holder. I really lucked out here. I don't need to use any of the provided hardware or extreme double sided tape. It literally press fitted right in place and doesn't move. SCORE!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

xxx_busa said:


> Nice Truck - I have the Same


You doing anything to it or are you satisfied with the OEM system? My wife who hates this hobby of mine, even noticed the center channel swap made a noticeable difference. She said: the navigation voice is more clean, crisp and her words are a lot more articulate.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

didnt know you were making use of the center channel. Does the PS8 Pro have any sort of upmixing for it?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> didnt know you were making use of the center channel. Does the PS8 Pro have any sort of upmixing for it?


Yes, the PS8PRO has an upmixer. What it does , when I get to the tuning stage, I'll find out. I'll probably have 2 presets, one for me (1 seat specific with no upmixer enabled except for navigation prompts). Second will be for when my wife is in the passenger seat.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Arc's PSC controller is going in the useless sunglasses holder. SCORE!


No sun there in Canada?


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

SkizeR said:


> didnt know you were making use of the center channel. Does the PS8 Pro have any sort of upmixing for it?


Upmixer is PL2
Works well just very different approach to tuning


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Niebur3 said:


> No sun there in Canada?


There is, I wear transition lenses and my wife has prescribed sunglasses in her purse.

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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Congrats! Nice truck. Really looking forward to seeing what you do with this install.


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## cycleguy (Feb 10, 2018)

I must say those RS 3.0 look quite interesting I have googled them I cant find much on them are they still current stock ?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

cycleguy said:


> I must say those RS 3.0 look quite interesting I have googled them I cant find much on them are they still current stock ?


arcaudio.com

Speaker Size 3.0"
Speaker Type Midrange -Raw Driver
Power Handling (Peak) 65 Watts
Power Handling (RMS) 35 Watts
Frequency Response 105Hz - 18kHz
Sensitivity 89dB
Impedance 4 ohms
Basket Material Cast Aluminum
Cone Material Composite Papyrus filled Paper
Surround Material Low Shore Rubber
Spider Material Synthetic Progressive Nomex
Motor Structure Multi-Step CNC Precision cut
Copper Shorting Ring Yes
Voice Coil CCAW
Mounting Depth 1.38"
Cutout Diameter 2.984"
Maximum Outer Diameter 3.622"
Mounting Flange Thickness .1826"
Grills Included No


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

cycleguy said:


> I must say those RS 3.0 look quite interesting I have googled them I cant find much on them are they still current stock ?


Designing new a speaker is no easy task. Designing an entire series of speakers with the intent of redefining the reference for clarity and detail is even harder. After months of development, tooling and testing, ARC Audio proudly announces the new RS Series of component speakers. The Reference Series includes four brand new premium transducers, each designed with a no-holds-barred approach to sonic perfection.

In the same way that our Signature Edition amplifiers have set the benchmark for system amplification, RS Series speakers offer performance that brings out the subtleties and nuances of your music. When integrated into your system, instruments will sound more realistic, voices will sound more natural, and the sheer dynamics of your music will simultaneously impress and startle you. Designed for today's active DSP based aftermarket and OEM replacement systems the RS Series exemplifies the focus of quality and detail without having to mortgage your home to obtain it.

Available in matched raw sets only, the RS series is available in 3”, 4” and 6” platforms accompanied by an elegant cast audiophile tweeter. The RS1.0 Tweeter is the perfect complement to matching with the RS 4.0 or RS 6.0 for a stunning of revealing 2-way active component system. Bring the RS3.0 into the picture paired with the RS1.0 and the RS6.0 and you now have the tools to help create staging, imaging, and tonal properties capable of finest resolution possible in a vehicle.

The compact and yet sonically versatile RS 3.0 is a 3.0-inch midrange driver perfect for active 3-way systems where space is mounting applications are at a premium. With a 1.38-inch mounting depth, small format custom cast chassis design and precision designed components the RS3.0 is the perfect match when space restrictions are at an all-time high for any reference audio or competition audio system.

The RS3.0 features a hard-pressed composite woven papyrus damped paper design resulting is a low-mass speaker cone with exceptional strength and excellent damping characteristics for smooth and natural sound reproduction across an extremely wide band of frequencies making this a very wide band capable speaker. Papyrus was used in a wide variety of applications and products as far back as 3100 BC to create writing material and was adopted in mainstream manufacturing in audio components dating back to the late 70’s. The balance of strength and durability of the Papyrus plant pith make it optimal for this application. In the new RS-Series speaker cones, the Papyrus damps vibrations and adds rigidity uniformly. The cone is attached to the cast aluminum basket with a low shore low-dampened rubber surround for optimal longevity.|

Perhaps the most unique features of the RS 3.0 and RS 4.0 are their new dust caps. Long overlooked as a fundamental contributor to high-frequency distortion and in some cases inconsistencies in response at low frequencies. With these typical issues in mind, ARC Audio focused intently on eliminating the drawbacks of undamped dust caps without the need to forego effective cone area by resorting to a phase plug design. The new dust caps feature a semi-parabolic side profile that includes sharp vertical splines to add lateral rigidity. Effectively, these new dust caps remain non-resonant, even at high excursion levels and extreme frequencies. The new design exclusive to the ARC Audio RS drivers provides resonance control across the operating band typically plagued by traditional designs while balancing the low-frequency response below 400Hz to give installers and system DSP tuners an optimal starting point with a well desired natural free air response that works well with the inside of the vehicle.

The motor assembly of the RS 3.0 and RS 4.0 feature a shallow design that uses a high-strength neodymium slug to provide excellent efficiency without the need for deep mounting depth requirements while retaining superior control of the speaker. With small nuances of difference between the drivers, the RS 3.0 features a distortion and inductance reducing copper cap on top the motor assembly to improve upper midrange and high-frequency performance making this a true compact wideband driver. The RS 4.0 trades the copper slug for an integrated shorting ring to reduce distortion through midrange frequencies dramatically increasing balance and smoothness of the natural response inside of the vehicle. The voice coils of the RS drivers feature CCAW winding's that provide a low mass thermally compliant solution resulting in excellent dynamics and control with premium thermal properties. Both coils are secured on a non-conductive former that does not contribute to unwanted magnetic field creation and are tested in extensive repeated and increased power tests to verify power handling, reliability and thermal compliance of the overall speaker.

The new ARC Audio Reference Series speakers continue our company’s tradition of optimizing the performance of your entertainment system by using the latest designs and technologies. Visit your local authorized ARC Audio dealer for an entirely new music listening experience.

All RS Series Speakers Are Sold In Matched Raw Pairs Only
Audiophile Design Specifically For The Car Audio Environment
Hard Pressed Composite Papyrus Reinforced Paper Cone
Shallow Vented Neodymium Motor System
Lightweight CCAW Voice Coil
Low Shore TLS Injected Rubber Surround
Flexible Long Life Lead Wires On Voice Coil
CNC Precision Cut Extended Copper Capped Pole Piece Assembly Minimizes Modulation Distortion And Varying Voice Coil Induction Significantly Increasing Bandwidth, Speaker Transparency and Transient Response
Geometrically Reinforced Dust Cap
Precision Wound Voice Coils And A Multi-Stage Adhesive Tempering Process Allows For Improved Power Handling Even During Ultra-High Demand Periods
All RS Speaker Voice Coils Undergo A Progressive Temperature Testing Tempering Process to Verify the Voice Coil's Thermal Rating
RS Series Speakers Are Only Available Thru Authorized ARC Audio Retailers And Exclusively Online At Home | Arc Audio, The Only Place Online To Buy ARC Audio Authorized With An Authentic ARC Audio Warranty


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## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

Although I absolutely shudder at someone calling the ridgeline a truck. They are great in a crossover category, but hardly a truck.

That being said I like the build. Looks like a lot of talent I dont have to build and repair those pods. Great work on that. Looking forward to more pics of the build.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

WilliamS said:


> Although I absolutely shudder at someone calling the ridgeline a truck. They are great in a crossover category, but hardly a truck.
> 
> 
> 
> That being said I like the build. Looks like a lot of talent I dont have to build and repair those pods. Great work on that. Looking forward to more pics of the build.


I agree to an extent, wife liked this more as did I.

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## cycleguy (Feb 10, 2018)

Do you have a cost for a set of these RS 3.0 cant find any prices on the web ?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

cycleguy said:


> Do you have a cost for a set of these RS 3.0 cant find any prices on the web ?


Sorry no, they sell to brick and mortar stores only. My Canadian prices are drastically different.

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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Sorry no, they sell to brick and mortar stores only. My Canadian prices are drastically different.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


That exchange rate to beaver pelts can be tricky.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

rton20s said:


> That exchange rate to beaver pelts can be tricky.


Indeed it is

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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Cool vehicle. Should be excellent!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Cool vehicle. Should be excellent!


We like it. Not as cool as your transit

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## xxx_busa (May 4, 2009)

AVIDEDTR said:


> You doing anything to it or are you satisfied with the OEM system? My wife who hates this hobby of mine, even noticed the center channel swap made a noticeable difference. She said: the navigation voice is more clean, crisp and her words are a lot more articulate.



I'm using some of the stuff like I had in my TL, Zr Labs & Ground Zero Pure..Zapco V -dsp or just a Morel setup with crossovers . Have 2 new C12XL

need TO STOP COLLECTING GEAR and get to installing... 


How are you getting your signal post or pre ???


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

xxx_busa said:


> I'm using some of the stuff like I had in my TL, Zr Labs & Ground Zero Pure..Zapco V -dsp or just a Morel setup with crossovers . Have 2 new C12XL
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A lot of great gear there.

I'll be tapping into the factory amp outputs. I'll post the signals measurements post amp at various volumes and hopefully I get lucky there isn't any Honda processing. Chances are the rear will be my best chance for full range signal

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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Truck just rolled 10,000km.
Did an OEM battery trickle charge over night. Gonna have to swap out this battery for an Odessey.
















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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Truck just rolled 10,000km.
> Did an OEM battery trickle charge over night. Gonna have to swap out this battery for an Odessey.


Wow, bummer. Seems like that should still be under warranty for sure. Most batteries are for at least 36 months from the factory. I would hit up the dealer you purchased the Ridgeline from and definitely request a free replacement. That's crazy for a 2019 that just has 10,000km/6,200 miles!

I'm sure you know, but the battery should test AT LEAST 12.6V (2.1v per each of the 6 cells), and would normally be over 13+ volts after coming off an overnight charge.

Are you sure that your Voltmeter Probe is accurate? A true load test would show the real picture. I use this small one for my personal vehicles & fleet of diesel and gas movie lighting equipment trucks, and it's been invaluable for the small investment. It will also test the charging system (alternator, etc.) and also has the ability to measure ripple, state of charge, state of health, and internal resistance....

*Solar BA9 Battery/System Tester*



















Ultimately, I would probably still want to get the Odyssey battery. Great batteries in my experience, including the Sears DieHard Platinum Marine (no longer available) which Odyssey made for them and was priced considerably less than the Odyssey-branded equivalents.

If the dealer does give you a free replacement battery, maybe keep it on a trickle charger as a backup, or sell it to help fund the Odyssey?

Good luck.

.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Truck just rolled 10,000km.
> Did an OEM battery trickle charge over night. Gonna have to swap out this battery for an Odessey.
> 
> 
> ...


Did you try "recovery mode" on that battery? Your battery may be stratified or sulfated. My Optima Yellow Top had the same symptoms, I used recovery mode on that exact charger (in your photo) about 4-5 times to get it back into perfect condition.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> I'll be tapping into the factory amp outputs. I'll post the signals measurements post amp at various volumes and hopefully I get lucky there isn't any Honda processing. Chances are the rear will be my best chance for full range signal.


Do you have any plans to use or at least try an alternate "clean" source via Optical Digital or analog into the PS8, perhaps with a portable DAP? 

Oh, is your LG G6 Platinum smartphone the version with the built-in Quad DACs? If so, you might just try its headphone output at close to full volume fed into the analog inputs of the PS8. 

Or use something like the _*SMSL XMOS X-USB II interface*_ and a USB Type-C OTG Cable to extract SPIDF Toslink Digital from the G6's USB Type-C port in combination with the _*USB Audio Player Pro*_ bit-perfect music player app. The SMSL would be powered by the battery in the G6, so a wireless charging pad might be the ticket with this setup.  Or try a OTG "Y" USB cable that allows you to attach a USB charger, though this usually does not work (depends on the specific smartphone & Android version it's running).

In one of my systems, I even use the mini-Toslink Optical output from a portable *Sony Discman #D-EJ715 CD Player/Walkman* into my Helix DSP Pro Mk II because I have no other way to play CDs in that vehicle. I keep the Discman stashed in the center console armrest cubby, and they make a variety of handy little wired remotes in different shapes & sizes (some with a display) for the Discman (#RM-MC_xxx_ or #RM-CD_xxx_. Just search eBay for "Sony RM-MC REMOTE for Walkman CD Player".



































Just a thought (or two, haha). It would be interesting to test the SQ difference with one of these compared to the Ridgeline's factory HU.


*I'll also be curious to hear your impressions of the new Arc RS drivers once you get the system tuned and dialed in!*

.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

ckirocz28 said:


> Did you try "recovery mode" on that battery? Your battery may be stratified or sulfated. My Optima Yellow Top had the same symptoms, I used recovery mode on that exact charger (in your photo) about 4-5 times to get it back into perfect condition.


Good call. Worth a try.

But if the dealer will give him a new battery under warranty, I would definitely go that route instead of trying to resuscitate a battery that's already been compromised.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

bbfoto said:


> Good call. Worth a try.
> 
> 
> 
> But if the dealer will give him a new battery under warranty, I would definitely go that route instead of trying to resuscitate a battery that's already been compromised.


I have to disagree, the battery charger is at home and so is the car (presumably), a few nights of recovery mode will be less hassle and will tell the OP if the battery is ok or damaged beyond recovery.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Hey guys, thanks for the tips on the battery. The only reason I topped the battery up, was becauseI was detailing the interior for 60+ minutes, and moving the seats back and forth, music playing etc etc.

Yes, the voltage seems low, when my wife gets home with the truck tomorrow after a 90min trip on the highway, I'll let the battery rest 30min then check resting voltage and update you all.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Do you have any plans to use or at least try an alternate "clean" source via Optical Digital or analog into the PS8, perhaps with a portable DAP?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info.
I need to see how clean the factory signal is first. I can't make it complicated for my wife. The OEM radio has everything onboard, so if I have to sacrifice some resolution, so be it. I will install the PS8 BTM module if it is absolutely ****.

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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

ckirocz28 said:


> I have to disagree, the battery charger is at home and so is the car (presumably), a few nights of recovery mode will be less hassle and will tell the OP if the battery is ok or damaged beyond recovery.


For the convenience factor, yes, of course. But for long-term reliability and peace of mind in cold Canadian winters, probably not.

Once a battery is discharged below 10 volts (especially multiple times) and has been sulfated, it has actually lost some of the surface area of the lead plates or sheets (the lead plates/sheets start to disintegrate and small particles actually flake off). The Reserve Current is reduced and the ESR will usually increase a lot as well.

The only way to really test the battery and be sure of its true health & condition would be to use a thorough load tester like the one I linked to after he has done the desulfate/recovery mode process 4-5 times (which will take a substantial amount of time). The dealership and AutoZone or other auto parts dealers will usually test your battery for free with a good load tester, so he wouldn't necessarily have to purchase one himself.

The dealership may or may not be close by (we don't know). And it all depends on the individual and their circumstances...sometimes "time is money" so to speak.

I'm sure he probably knows what he wants to do by now and we're just mucking up his build log, so I'll tap out now.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Hey guys, thanks for the tips on the battery. The only reason I topped the battery up, was because I was detailing the interior for 60+ minutes, and moving the seats back and forth, music playing etc etc.
> 
> Yes, the voltage seems low, when my wife gets home with the truck tomorrow after a 90min trip on the highway, I'll let the battery rest 30min then check resting voltage and update you all.


Ahhhh....copy that! I usually connect my IOTA/CAE power supply or battery charger ahead of time when I know I'll be tuning or spending that much time in the vehicle without it running.  But seeing that low voltage even after an overnight charge isn't reassuring.




AVIDEDTR said:


> Thanks for the info.
> I need to see how clean the factory signal is first. I can't make it complicated for my wife. The OEM radio has everything onboard, so if I have to sacrifice some resolution, so be it. I will install the PS8 BTM module if it is absolutely ****.


Makes perfect sense. I think the PS8 BT module and your LG G6 do the higher quality Apt-X BT, right? ...so that would be a nice alternative.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> For the convenience factor, yes, of course. But for long-term reliability and peace of mind in cold Canadian winters, probably not.
> 
> Once a battery is discharged below 10 volts (especially multiple times) and has been sulfated, it has actually lost some of the surface area of the lead plates or sheets (the lead plates/sheets start to disintegrate and small particles actually flake off). The Reserve Current is reduced and the ESR will usually increase a lot as well.
> 
> ...


Guys, don't worry about mucking up the build log. This is all excellent information.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

bbfoto said:


> ...sometimes "time is money"


It is, but the recovery can run while the OP is sleeping, which would be faster than driving to a dealership right next door and waiting for them to do their thing.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Guys, don't worry about mucking up the build log. This is all excellent information.


Cool, thanks. Well then, eh... 

Another idea is to replace ALL of the interior lights with good LED equivalents if they aren't already LED. _Good quality_ LEDs are usually quite a bit brighter AND use _substantially_ less current. There are others that I'm forgetting, but one good source for quality LEDs is _Diode Dynamics_. It's not worth it to buy the cheapies....they will either flicker (bad design) or fail rather quickly.

I used to have problems with the battery dying in my girlfriend's SUV when she would leave the dome lights/map lights/vanity mirror lights on overnight.  :worried: I switched everything to LEDs and the battery has been fine now don'tchaknow after a few of the same incidents.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

More of the gear is here. Wirez battery terminals, Wirez W distribution block, Wirez Signature RCAs, Wirez 18ga wires, speakers, subs and BTM.























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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> More of the gear is here. Wirez battery terminals, Wirez W distribution block, Wirez Signature RCAs, Wirez 18ga wires, speakers, subs and BTM.


Schweeet! Looks like Christmas in March! 

Something tells me that this is going to sound pretty [email protected] good! 

EDIT: WAIT! Did you get TWO pairs of the RS 3.0 mids? Rear fill?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Schweeet! Looks like Christmas in March!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Two for the pods on each side of the dash and one for the center channel. I have a shelf spare.
I also have a set if RS4.0s too for a rainy day.

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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Ahhhh OK, right-E-O! That makes sense. Forgot about the Center channel. :blush:

But RS 4.0's, too?! You Canadians are filthy hoarders. Pffft!  

Enjoy!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

The rest of parts have arrived. I went with Sky High OFC wiring since the Wirez OFC was almost twice the price. All black casing for 12vDC and Ground, 16gauge for the 3" midrange pods.

Everything exposed that isn't under a panel will be tesa taped and terminated with heatshirnk























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## flgfish (Jan 17, 2019)

That's a pile of parts. Have fun with the installation! Should be sweet.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

This build is really coming together. Looking at that 08155 makes me think there will be some serious fab.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

OCD66 said:


> This build is really coming together. Looking at that 08155 makes me think there will be some serious fab.


Thanks, starting the tear down any day now, just need double digits weather.
Actually, 08155 not for anything other that structural support of the midrange pods.

I'll explain soon


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

flgfish said:


> That's a pile of parts. Have fun with the installation! Should be sweet.


Under the seat amp enclosures I'm excited at building the most. #aluminum

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## flgfish (Jan 17, 2019)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Under the seat amp enclosures I'm excited at building the most. #aluminum


I did a bunch of 3D printing with my current build, and that was a lot of fun. No aluminum. I used ABS for the amp mounting plate under the seat.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

flgfish said:


> I did a bunch of 3D printing with my current build, and that was a lot of fun. No aluminum. I used ABS for the amp mounting plate under the seat.


That sounds like a lot of fun. how did you secure the enclosure? I plan to sandwich the plate between the seat and floor.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Okay, truck is coming apart Saturday.

So, some advice would be appreciated.

Here is what the rear wall looks like disassembled.

If, I take the sub out, I have the ability to mount the Arc PS8-50 and Arc X2 1100.2 and wirez W block with possible 2 caps.

Or

Just make an under the seat enclosure and forget the caps

I bought enough 4 gauge to run from the battery to the rear of the truck.

From a service standpoint, behind the seats will suck









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## flgfish (Jan 17, 2019)

AVIDEDTR said:


> That sounds like a lot of fun. how did you secure the enclosure? I plan to sandwich the plate between the seat and floor.


I used the mounting points that the factory amp used. It was honestly pretty straightforward. My car has a little cutout that the factory amp sat in, so I used that space. That's what drove me to a Helix V Eight actually... small enough to fit in the space and had all the features I wanted.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Blacking out the grill with some SEM paint























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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Note to self. Don't buy the cheap paint.
I had to strip all of that dupicolor junk off and redo it.

Oh well.
SEM for the win























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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Yeah, good stuff. I use the SEM "Trim Black" for most things I need to paint for the vehicle.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Patience is one thing I really don't have when it come to paint, but a good friend of mine kept me in line this week.






























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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Now that the painted parts are curing on a shelf in the basement of my home, moving on to the A pillar wiring prep work.

Mundorf 47uF caps with XT 60 connectors, Cardas solder and flux, sky-high OFC 16gauge, heat shrink and Tesa Tape.

































































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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

All wrapped up and the X2 1100.1 finally made it home












































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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Couldn't work on the truck this weekend. Good friend of mine turned 40 so 

Took the the amp out of house and getting it ready.

Thought I would share the size of the PS8-50

The silver amp is an Arc X2 1100.1 and old clarion radio.































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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

I can't wait to see how this turns out. My little VW Golf can't fit the Black 4.0 anywhere, so I've been eyeing the RS 3.0 since I heard about them. I'm just worried about that 35 watt RMS spec. I'll be using a ks300.4 on them and 1.0.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

nineball76 said:


> I can't wait to see how this turns out. My little VW Golf can't fit the Black 4.0 anywhere, so I've been eyeing the RS 3.0 since I heard about them. I'm just worried about that 35 watt RMS spec. I'll be using a ks300.4 on them and 1.0.


Don't worry about power, just be careful with the output trims


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Quick update, if this doesn't work out to my likings this DSP will be up for sale.
BNIB JBL MS-8 
















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## court (Feb 7, 2017)

Very nice install you got going. I like the equipment you are using as well.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Started a bit late this morning(duct cleaner appointment).

Here's what got done.

































































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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

That's it for today. Only regret is not having 4gauge heat shrink on hand. Lots of 0gauge on hand

Anyways. It's coming along smoothly and tomorrow I'll be tackling the wiring in the vehicle/engine.












































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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

A lot got done today. Not playing maybe in a week or two

































































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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

A Pillars turned out great. Can't wait to work on it again after my business trip to Atlanta.












































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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Wow, you got a lot done in a short amount of time. Wish I was that far along! Looks great, man. Wish I could hear your setup with those RS drivers. :thumbsup:


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Thx bbfoto

I got a few messages for the distribution block made by Wirez.

http://www.wirez.com/pdfcs-44

^^^thats the model

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## notn41 (Dec 24, 2015)

How do you like your audio frogs?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Top 5 car audio speakers in my books.

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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

I goofed on the amount of wiring I needed. Picked up Wirez Signature 14gauge and Wirez 18gauge. Unfortunately the weather wasn't overly compliant.

Here is yesterday's update.

Won't be playing music for a few more weeks

































































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## WilliamS (Oct 1, 2016)

AVIDEDTR said:


>


I only discovered barrier strips on my last install and Ive been missing something this my whole life!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

WilliamS said:


> I only discovered barrier strips on my last install and Ive been missing something this my whole life!


Make's life a bit easier, that's for sure

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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

captainobvious said:


> Yeah, good stuff. I use the SEM "Trim Black" for most things I need to paint for the vehicle.


Yup, I've lost track of how many rattle cans of Trim Black I've gone through, haha. I should buy it by the case.  

But a new favorite is Evercoat's "Black It Out". It's very similar to Trim Black but I just like it a bit more. It's a lot harder to source at a decent price though.

https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-FIB-2631-Matte-Finish-Aerosol/dp/B000Q8BDKM


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

This is a good one also....

https://www.amazon.com/Products-15243-Satin-Black-Color-x/dp/B00PH6N17G


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Got a few hours in tonight.

Battery is terminated with 12vDC and Ground.
Didn't end up using the Wirez blocks. 

Tomorrow is wiring up the MS8 and the OEM amp wires inputs + outputs.

Exciting























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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Had to fill in the two holes next to the fuse holder with panel bonding glue. 

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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Fired the system up Friday afternoon and was rather surprised how well the MS8 did its magic with signal acquisition, output routing and the binaural headphones were a breeze to setup.

Now for the irritation of the MS8. I couldn't get navigation prompts to play. I went to a shop this morning and we checked every input signal and center channel signal was present at the input connector to the MS8. Grrrrrrr. Andy even tried to help and I couldn't get it to go.

Anyways, I drove home, cut the input and output connectors and pulled the MS8 out.

Re-wiring the OEM input signals to PS850 was no easy task since the connector was tight to the passenger wall - I think I had 2 inches 

Took me about 2 hours to cut to length, twist, solder protect it all with heatshirnk. 

I also added the sub signal from factory on Channel 8, just incase Front/Rear full range signals were being High Pass filtered.

Sorry not alot of photos, not much to photograph.
















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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Fired the system up Friday afternoon and was rather surprised how well the MS8 did its magic with signal acquisition, output routing and the binaural headphones were a breeze to setup.
> 
> Now for the irritation of the MS8. I couldn't get navigation prompts to play. I went to a shop this morning and we checked every input signal and center channel signal was present at the input connector to the MS8. Grrrrrrr. Andy even tried to help and I couldn't get it to go.
> 
> ...



Bummer that you couldn't get the MS8 to play nice! 

But how did those Arc RS-series drivers sound?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Bummer that you couldn't get the MS8 to play nice!
> 
> 
> 
> But how did those Arc RS-series drivers sound?


Right now, my focus is to get the signal acquisition routed correctly. I have to flatten the incoming signals cause I know Honda is dynamically applying a house curve.

Looks like using the rears input signal doesn't output when in Bluetooth mode. CD/AM/FM/AndroidAuto all work. 

I'm sure they will be fantastic

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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

I've recently acquired a US 2019 Ridgeline RTL-E which has the same Audio-Navigation system as your Canadian '19 Black Edition.

I've also got (2) MS-8's and a stack of MS-Axxxx series amps plus speakers, etc pulled from my '14 Escape build. Needless to say your thread is of great interest as I contemplate mods to the Ridgeline, especially in hopes of using the MS-8.

Below is a table of info I compiled from a source about the 2016 Pilot A-N system which I'm fairly confident is identical to how our '19 Ridgeline RTL-E/BE manage the various "audio" (music) signals vs 'non-audio' tones, beeps, and voices. Perhaps this info is of interest or help to you, even for your 'other than MS-8' processor setup.









Clearly the muting scheme, especially relating to the OEM center channel, presents serious challenges for the MS-8 since the muting scheme can't be simulated during setup/calibration. If the MS-8 determines during setup that the center channel input has no value in establishing a full range L&R 'music' signal it may completely ignore that input. I'm not sure that there's a solution to this but I'm hard-headed so intend to give it a serious run for its money in a test setup - perhaps proving to be a huge and fruitless waste of time.

A few questions for you:

Did you route all 8 of the OEM amp output channels to your MS-8 for that ill-fated exercise?
Would you mind sharing which OEM amp outputs to routed to which MS-8 input channels?
Your Canadian Ridgeline has an in-dash CD player, correct? Our US models don't have that so we have no way to input any lossless format calibration files without adding that optional accessory.

Begging your understanding as I bring Q's about the MS-8 back into your thread even though you've abandoned that device, *Thanks In Advance* for any enlightenment you can provide.

PS - I'm _loving_ the Ridgeline as a replacement for both my '14 Escape and '05 F150. Easy for me to ignore those who say it's "Not A Real Truck" as misguided souls - mine has already done serious duty towing my 16' utility trailer loaded with building materials and test runs with my '17 / 3500# RV have been great. Rated to tow 5k# as you know - within that very reasonable limit for a small truck it does great! And oh my, the ride and handling with it's AWD and all-independent suspension is pure bliss, empty or loaded


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

my replies are in red. You can email me personally at [email protected] if you want further guidance

I've recently acquired a US 2019 Ridgeline RTL-E which has the same Audio-Navigation system as your Canadian '19 Black Edition.
Congrats, if you are on Facebook, find the GROUP "2nd Generation Honda Ridgeline" it's a great place to read about MODs, stories, recalls....etc 

I've also got (2) MS-8's and a stack of MS-Axxxx series amps plus speakers, etc pulled from my '14 Escape build. Needless to say your thread is of great interest as I contemplate mods to the Ridgeline, especially in hopes of using the MS-8.

Below is a table of info I compiled from a source about the 2016 Pilot A-N system which I'm fairly confident is identical to how our '19 Ridgeline RTL-E/BE manage the various "audio" (music) signals vs 'non-audio' tones, beeps, and voices. Perhaps this info is of interest or help to you, even for your 'other than MS-8' processor setup.









Clearly the muting scheme, especially relating to the OEM center channel, presents serious challenges for the MS-8 since the muting scheme can't be simulated during setup/calibration. If the MS-8 determines during setup that the center channel input has no value in establishing a full range L&R 'music' signal it may completely ignore that input. I'm not sure that there's a solution to this but I'm hard-headed so intend to give it a serious run for its money in a test setup - perhaps proving to be a huge and fruitless waste of time.

The muting scheme was the reason ditched the MS8

A few questions for you:

Did you route all 8 of the OEM amp output channels to your MS-8 for that ill-fated exercise?
YES all 8 signals were used
Would you mind sharing which OEM amp outputs to routed to which MS-8 input channels?
I routed them all
Your Canadian Ridgeline has an in-dash CD player, correct? Our US models don't have that so we have no way to input any lossless format calibration files without adding that optional accessory.
Yup, we have a CD player, apparently there is someone has added a CD player to the us models.

Begging your understanding as I bring Q's about the MS-8 back into your thread even though you've abandoned that device, *Thanks In Advance* for any enlightenment you can provide.

My recommendation is ditch the MS8 and buy a decent DSP or DSP amp. If you can't tune, find a good tuner to suit your needs. Chris Pate in College Station can surely help in this dept. I would start with ARC's PS8 PRO, which is what I use(DSP+AMP) and it has everything you would ever need. 

You will also need to disable the ANC module and I still trying to resolve the Auto EQ problems.


PS - I'm _loving_ the Ridgeline as a replacement for both my '14 Escape and '05 F150. Easy for me to ignore those who say it's "Not A Real Truck" as misguided souls - mine has already done serious duty towing my 16' utility trailer loaded with building materials and test runs with my '17 / 3500# RV have been great. Rated to tow 5k# as you know - within that very reasonable limit for a small truck it does great! And oh my, the ride and handling with it's AWD and all-independent suspension is pure bliss, empty or loaded 

We love it


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Sony GS9 installed behind the seat. Used a 12v IR repeater to manually turn off the radio outside of the application.

Works great

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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Clean up and shes good to go









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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Sony GS9 installed behind the seat. Used a 12v IR repeater to manually turn off the radio outside of the application.
> 
> Works great
> 
> Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


No doubt the SQ is fantastic.

My only 'beef' with that sort of solution is loss of voice-command selection of music on USB media. For me 99% of my listening is from my large library of albums on a USB drive. Ford SYNC spoiled me to the incredible benefit of that feature for hands/eyes-free road-trip listening. The Ridgeline's "Song By Voice" feature is working almost as well.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Ford,
I didnt loose anything in the voice commands. This is the beauti of the PS8-50 i can play both sources simultaneously. Not that anyone would want. My wife doesnt care how it sounds. So she will use the Oem radio and ill use the sony

The analog signal and digital signal are always active.
So if i get a call on my phone it routes it thru the Oem unit the PS8 attenuates the sony. I can use the Honda voice commands to plays sogs etc etc, granted a usb stick is connected at the factory radio

I dont have to switch presets or wait for the processor to decide which input to take.

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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

Sorry, I'm not following and appreciate your patience with my lack of understanding and questions ….

So for music that's selected via voice command you (your wife) use the OEM USB source (bypassing the GS9); for lossless music via the GS9 you cannot use voice command to browse your library on whatever media is routed through the GS9 - is that correct?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> Sorry, I'm not following and appreciate your patience with my lack of understanding and questions ….
> 
> 
> 
> So for music that's selected via voice command you (your wife) use the OEM USB source (bypassing the GS9); for lossless music via the GS9 you cannot use voice command to browse your library on whatever media is routed through the GS9 - is that correct?


Yes, correct. Your questions are more than welcome.

I usually have a playlist and just stick to it for daily commutes.

If i want to change to something different the sony pairs over bluetooth to my spare cell phone and ill choose music accordingly.

If i could acquire the oen raw audio signal before the amp i wouldnt have to add the sony, but it is what it is.

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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks for the clarification. 

IMO no question you've built a fantastic system for the RL, working through / around as many 'compromises' as possible.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Long awaited updated. 

This weekend my wife and I drove from Toronto Canada to Stony Point NY to visit Nick at Apicella Auto Sound and pick up our truck's new sub box.

Nick(SkizeR) had to work practically blind to birth this box. Thankfully, I found another Ridgeline owner in his area to get initial measurements and he came back for final fitments. (Thanks Nick U for your time and donating your truck)

Nick gave it a great tune aswell, since my left ear has been giving me issues(work server fan noise) 

Outstanding work is to add a Mercury switch and wiring the power LEd lights in the box.


























































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## mires (Mar 5, 2011)

Damn, that looks really awesome.


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

Will the seats fold down while the sub box is in place?

Looks great!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

EmptyKim said:


> Will the seats fold down while the sub box is in place?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great!


 The seated section flips up, exposing the sub box. The backrest are fixed.

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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

AVIDEDTR said:


> The seated section flips up, exposing the sub box. The backrest are fixed.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


Thats awesome. Got pics with the seats down?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

EmptyKim said:


> Thats awesome. Got pics with the seats down?


Not yet. Sorry, just got home after 8 hour drive.

Ill post something soon

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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

EmptyKim said:


> Thats awesome. Got pics with the seats down?


Sorry, had a few min. Here you go.
















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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Sorry, had a few min. Here you go.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh damn thats sweet! You have a ton of space under those seats!


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

AVIDEDTR said:


> EmptyKim said:
> 
> 
> > Thats awesome. Got pics with the seats down?
> ...


Looks great. Kudos to Nick. It would have been really cool if the inserts in the sub box were the same color as the inserts in the seats, but I do really like it.


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## SkizeR (Apr 19, 2011)

Ayy thanks guys



Niebur3 said:


> Looks great. Kudos to Nick. It would have been really cool if the inserts in the sub box were the same color as the inserts in the seats, but I do really like it.


Thanks. And as far as the color, trust me, we tried. Alcantara didnt make a close enough copy. As you probably know, when you attempt to match something but its not that close, it looks cheap and half assed. Its much better to just go with something that contrasts instead, so thats what we did.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Niebur3 said:


> Looks great. Kudos to Nick. It would have been really cool if the inserts in the sub box were the same color as the inserts in the seats, but I do really like it.


We tried, there was leather but the color wasn't close.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

SkizeR said:


> Ayy thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> ...





AVIDEDTR said:


> Niebur3 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks great. Kudos to Nick. It would have been really cool if the inserts in the sub box were the same color as the inserts in the seats, but I do really like it.
> ...


Gotcha. And I agree, unless you can source the exact color, it wouldn’t work. Too bad you can buy straight from manufacturers for customization....would make life much easier.


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Install looks great! Never heard of Wirez before but desperately in search of similar battery terminals. Any reason you didn’t use them?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

hybridspl said:


> Install looks great! Never heard of Wirez before but desperately in search of similar battery terminals. Any reason you didn’t use them?


Thanks, I didn't want to cut up the factory wiring.

If you need the battery terminals, I'd be more than happy to sell and ship them to you.

$50 for the positive and negative


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Thanks, I didn't want to cut up the factory wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Maybe. Let me sleep on it. My OCD mixed with my Accord is a bad combo haha. Based on your install, I’m guessing you’re in the same boat


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

The sub array does look impressive, kudos to all involved.

Aside, I see that you've got your GS9 up for sale. Any hints about what's gonna replace that or other mods in the offing?

Just curious as I follow the thread to keep abreast of possible approaches for G2 RTL-E / BE system upgrades (you've taken things to a higher plane for this vehicle for sure)


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> The sub array does look impressive, kudos to all involved.
> 
> Aside, I see that you've got your GS9 up for sale. Any hints about what's gonna replace that or other mods in the offing?
> 
> Just curious as I follow the thread to keep abreast of possible approaches for G2 RTL-E / BE system upgrades (you've taken things to a higher plane for this vehicle for sure)


Yup once the GS9 is gone it will get replaced with FiiO M11 to a coax cable. Hidding the GS9 was simply impractical and removing the USB requires 12 bolts to come out and seats, now the box too. grrrrrrr


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Yup once the GS9 is gone it will get replaced with FiiO M11 to a coax cable. Hidding the GS9 was simply impractical and removing the USB requires 12 bolts to come out and seats, now the box too. grrrrrrr


Ah, so the FIO will be a _much_ more convenient / flexible music source, still connected to the PS8-50 now via non-optical SPDIF, located easily accessible, the rest of the system will remain and operate the same.

Have I got it?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> Ah, so the FIO will be a _much_ more convenient / flexible music source, still connected to the PS8-50 now via non-optical SPDIF, located easily accessible, the rest of the system will remain and operate the same.
> 
> Have I got it?


Yup nail=head 100%

my wife got scared friday when I forgot to terminate the GS9 via the IR remote. The unit started to play SLAYER at 0.00db. I almost had to sleep on the couch that night.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Looks terrific. Great job Nick.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

AVIDEDTR said:


> https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190407/88caf0ccb9ac5705ee2c7112c35fc4ae.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Question on the mids mounted to the pillars. I had a similar setup in my F150. My issue was that the weight of the pods allowed the pillar to flex/ move a lot while driving. Are the pillars in yours vehicle fairly rigid as far as that goes?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

bigbubba said:


> Question on the mids mounted to the pillars. I had a similar setup in my F150. My issue was that the weight of the pods allowed the pillar to flex/ move a lot while driving. Are the pillars in yours vehicle fairly rigid as far as that goes?


Not Ridgid at all. I was going to put a piece of aluminum plate behind the pillar and epoxy it to the plastic.

They move very little. Since our truck suspensions are different you'll see more movement than I will.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Ok. I have since moved mine to the door sail panel. Mine was mounted more on the side, closer to the windshield. With the sun warming the pillar cover up and the weight of the pod mine moved quite a bit. 

Awesome job on the install, very nice.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Now that the Sony GS9 is sold. It's replacement has arrived surprisingly early.
Time to load some music.
I also ordered a BlueJeans 75ohm coax cable to feed the PS8-50D)(customCoaxConnection)


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

!!!UPDATE!!!

To all 2017 thru 2019 Honda RidgeLine owners, who want to integrate with an aftermarket audio system and _keep the factory radio_ and not buy an OEM integration piece, here is the information needed.





*Options 1 = 2way + Sub*
You will need a DSP that can accept a minimum of 8 channels in
Channel 1 Tweeter Left, Channel 2 Tweeter Right. Channel 3 Front Let Full, Channel 4 Front Right Full, Channel 5 Rear Left Full, Channel 6 Rear Right Full, Channel 7 Center and Channel 8 Sub. *Fader is set to the Rear*

If you plan to not use an upmixer, simply don't connect the center to Channel 7 on your DSP/AMP and mute the Center Channel in the Radio.

*Option 2 = 3way + Sub*
You will need a DSP that can accept a minimum of 8 channels in
Channel 1 Tweeter Left, Channel 2 Tweeter Right, Channel 3 Front Let Full, Channel 4 Front Right Full, Channel 5 Rear Left Full, Channel 6 Rear Right Full, Channel 7 Center, and Channel 8 Sub. *Fader is set to the Rear*

If you plan to not use an upmixer, simply don't connect the center to Channel 7 on your DSP/AMP and mute the Center Channel in the Radio.

*Option 3 = 3way + Center + Sub*
You will need a DSP that can accept a minimum of 8 channels in
Channel 1 Tweeter Left, Channel 2 Tweeter Right, Channel 3 Front Let Full, Channel 4 Front Right Full, Channel 5 Rear Left Full, Channel 6 Rear Right Full, Channel 7 Center, and Channel 8 Sub. *Fader is set to the Rear*

Your DSP has to be able to route Inputs to outputs and attenuate channels accordingly.
Compatible list:
Mosconi 8 to 12 
Helix DSP PRO MKII
BRAX DSP
Helix C-DSP
Arc Audio PS8PRO(Family)
Audison BitOne
Clarion XC7420(only if vertically bi-amped with DSP or in laymans terms two XC7420s)
Audio Control DM-810
JL FIX 8to2
Hertz H8.
..........there might be more but this ^^ a good start

Not compatible: 
Arc Audio PS8v1
Dayton DSP 408
Alpine H800
Alpine H701/700
Helix DSP.3
Helix DSP MINI


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thanks for sharing this. Just picked up a 2019 Honda passport, so this will be very helpful!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

mrichard89 said:


> Thanks for sharing this. Just picked up a 2019 Honda passport, so this will be very helpful!


Just keep in mind that you will need to route Tweeters, Front Full and Rear to your front stage to retain all Nav, Voice and Phone Calls. To avoid the nasty OEM MUSIC AUDIO signal, simply fade the audio to the rear at all times. This means you loose fader in the radio but if you buy a DSP like the ARC PS8PRO and PSC with aftermarket amplified rears you will regain fader in the DSP.


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## rickbatdiymobile (Jul 27, 2019)

When you say fade audio to the rear, do you mean only use the front stage? If that is the case, is it still necessary to connect the rear signals to the DSP?


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

I'm gonna offer an explanation in hope that @AVIDEDTR will correct me if I'm wrong for both our benefit ….

1. Set OEM RL fader to full rear - when this is done you get no 'music' from the front output channels but you _do still get the vehicle voices and alarms_ out of the front channels

2. Connect ALL 8 OEM amp output channels to your DSP (including CENTER)

3. In your DSP routing setup, direct *front* OEM channels to front speakers (for _voices and alarms_) plus *rear* OEM channels to front (for _music_).

If you don't use a center DSP output you _must_ route the OEM center output to the FR L and R (to hear voices and alarms which are only broadcast on the OEM center output).

If you do use a DSP center output, route the OEM center out to your DSP center out, and then do whatever you want with rear OEM outs to center DSP out (whether 'dumb L+R or some version of unmixed center via DSP capabilities or summing tricks if your DSP does not provide 'true center' up-mixing).

4. Use your DSP to TA and EQ the front stage for the music.

5. If you want rear (fill), also route the rear OEM channels (again) to the rear outputs and tune accordingly.

This works because:

fade does not affect vehicle voices and alarms on the OEM outputs
the rear outputs are full spectrum music (suitable for processing)
when the voices or alarms sound, the RL mutes the *rear* music outputs to allow the voices and alarms to be heard

Obviously, you must use a DSP which accepts 8 discrete inputs and which allows discrete user-controlled summing of F and R inputs to the F output. DSPs which 'auto-sum', DSPs which don't support user-controlled input summing, or DSPs which force the handling of inputs as pairs are not amenable to this method.

Have I got it @AVIDEDTR ?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> I'm gonna offer an explanation in hope that @AVIDEDTR will correct me if I'm wrong for both our benefit ….
> 
> 1. Set OEM RL fader to full rear - when this is done you get no 'music' from the front output channels but you _do still get the vehicle voices and alarms_ out of the front channels
> 
> ...


I think you hit the Nail on the Head.

Keep in mind, all navigation prompts, honda link prompt, come from the center channel and cell phone calls come from the front 4 channels. So you need all 8 channels mixed in for everything to act factory like. 

I will be providing a more intuitive video once I get back from Texas and Atlanta in Mid August


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

OK, so here's a table describing the setup …


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

the only comment I have is: the center channel amplitude at -10(off)

I would rather a phantom center than a Honda Upmixer Center.


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## rickbatdiymobile (Jul 27, 2019)

Thanks so much! I have a 2017 Honda Pilot and think the audio system is similar. I did not know the rears were full range. Do the rears also get the sub signal?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

rickbatdiymobile said:


> Thanks so much! I have a 2017 Honda Pilot and think the audio system is similar. I did not know the rears were full range. Do the rears also get the sub signal?


It high passes around 50hz

Your pilot doesn't have a sub?

If not, i would assume the same rules apply here.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Here is the mixer structure


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## rickbatdiymobile (Jul 27, 2019)

AVIDEDTR said:


> It high passes around 50hz
> 
> Your pilot doesn't have a sub?
> 
> ...


My Pilot does have a Sub.

Why can't I use the AudioControl LC8i? It sums all signals to a Main Signal and there seems to be a means to adjust each signal level. I hoping to find something less expensive. Thanks again.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

it looks like the LC8 will work

try it.


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## Briggs (Nov 3, 2012)

Thank you for you input on the system design. I too have a BE (2109)

What is your relationship with ARC? I'm trying to decide my path forward and unlike home audio I cannot go around and listen to all the options. At some point with this build I'll just have to take a leap of faith (which frankly scares me a bit). I think I'll need to hear speakers, the DSP may be inert enough to buy based on features. Amps I think I'd want to hear as well.

Just curious, you seemed to have a preference for the ARC brand.

*IF* you did not need to integrate the OEM system, would you still run a DSP?

Thanks again for taking the time to share. It gives a lot of background and will shortcut my work for sure.

My main source is a headless PC that runs JRiver. I run that through a Audioquest Dragonfly DAC into the AUX port. Controlled by JRemote from a tablet or phone. 4 TB on a USB HD. I'd like to have CD capability as well which means I may have to use the factory signal for CD. I'd love to find a DSP that has a DAC built in so I can run the PC direct to the DSP via USB.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Briggs said:


> Thank you for you input on the system design. I too have a BE (2109)
> 
> What is your relationship with ARC?


I'm friends with Brad, Fred and Brian at Arc. They are all about the music and making sure it sounds like music. I chose ARC RS speakers for the truck because of the costs and they are different than the AudioFrog speakers in my other vehicle.



Briggs said:


> I'm trying to decide my path forward and unlike home audio I cannot go around and listen to all the options. At some point with this build I'll just have to take a leap of faith (which frankly scares me a bit).


This is place (DIYMA) can be good and bad for advice, All I can say is if you want great SQ. AudioFrog GB or GS, ARC Audio RS, AudiblePhysics, Dynaudio, ScanSpeak Revelators, JL Audio C7.



Briggs said:


> I think I'll need to hear speakers


*
My Suggestion is to drive 3 hours to Stony Point NY and go visit Nick at Apicella Auto Sound.* Nick is a damn good at SQ direction (his specialty) and can demo what you want to hear



Briggs said:


> The DSP may be inert enough to buy based on features.


This is my opinion:

For best sound ARC PS8 PRO
For best features HELIX DSP PRO MK2




Briggs said:


> Amps I think I'd want to hear as well.


This is a very opinionated area, and most of the time you get what you pay for in the $100-$600 amp category. I personally went with ARC's PS8-50 because it's 50wrms x8 channels and has the ARCDSP built in and it's small.




Briggs said:


> Just curious, you seemed to have a preference for the ARC brand.


Their Sound Quality and customer service is fantastic. 
For a no money object amps: TRU, ARC SE, GENESIS, ZAPCO AP, 



Briggs said:


> *IF* you did not need to integrate the OEM system, would you still run a DSP?


YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Briggs said:


> Thanks again for taking the time to share. It gives a lot of background and will shortcut my work for sure


PM away if you need further assistance


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

@AVIDEDTR has certainly provided a lot of *great* info and approaches for upgrading our Gen2 Ridgeline RTL-E and Black Edition systems. He's been _extremely_ generous in sharing his time and experience in detail via this forum, email, and on the phone with me, and that's *hugely appreciated*.

IMO his 'predilection' for ARC is well-founded in his personal experience but is not 'rabid to the point of blindness' - he recognizes that there are other viable alternatives which may be more attractive to others for a variety of reasons. 

FWIW I, too, found "Fred" at ARC to be a fount of useful and friendly info via telephone conversation; in addition to explaining some of the beneficial nuances of his products, Fred was very forthright in discussion some of the (few) limitations of ARC's DSPs (*no* DSP is 'perfect' and does 'everything'  ). My interaction with him certainly gave me a _very favorable_ first-hand impression of ARC's product / tech support and convinced _me_ that they would be a great company to be involved with if I were to go with one of their DSPs.

>>>>>

All that notwithstanding, _and not to discount any of that in the least_, as I study and test my OEM RTL-E (same as Black Edition) system, I think that there *may* be a 'conceptually different' approach that's viable for upgrading these systems. This based on the concept of tapping the NAV&Phone voice, and vehicle "Beep Tones" low-level analog signal between the A-N module and the OEM amp. Then, using only select high-level _music-only_ outputs from the OEM amp for external DSP music processing, with the NAV&Phone / Beep Tones mixed-in to select channels on the external DSP.

A 'pro' of this different approach is that it allows external DSP optimization of _music_ reproduction without any concern/interference relating to those non-music 'voices and tones'. Those non-music 'voices and tones' (all mono signals BTW) can be routed through the external DSP to be reproduced on select speakers of the user's choice, and the automatic 'music muting / attenuation' provided by the OEM system is retained (along with master volume and source selection via all the usual OEM control options).

A 'pro' of this different approach is that the stage-harming OEM 'dumb L+R center' can be bypassed completely, allowing one to use an upmixed 'real center' if one's DSP provides that capability, or omit the center for music reproduction entirely if that's your preference. 

A 'con' of this different approach is that OEM fade, balance and sub/center controls are forfeit in favor of those provided by the external DSP.

Acknowledging that I have not fully 'proven' this different approach _yet_, and therefore have not _fully_ identified the 'cons', I will offer that testing to date is _very_ encouraging.

All that the long way around to saying there may be more than one way to 'skin the cat' of upgrading our Gen2 RTL-E / BE audio systems with all of the challenges they place before us.

Hoping that @AVIDEDTR is tolerant of my 'hijack', all in the interest of helping Ridgeline modifiers which seems to be our common interest.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Second last update before I finish the doors, in a few weeks with Resonix sound depening materials and install Arc's RS6.0.

Booked an apointment with a Local shop in Burlington Ontario Canada called "RadioActive", Harminder and Lee provided me an AudioControl DM-RTA to help me see the rear+sub signal to flatten it out.

Took me about 35 min with mono pink noise to do all three inputs to where the signal is within 1-2 db. Not perfect but it's 80% there and for daily, that's good enough for me.

FiiO M11 is finally installed with a Bluejeans 75ohm cusom cable
No photos.























Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> @AVIDEDTR has certainly provided a lot of *great* info and approaches for upgrading our Gen2 Ridgeline RTL-E and Black Edition systems. He's been _extremely_ generous in sharing his time and experience in detail via this forum, email, and on the phone with me, and that's *hugely appreciated*.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I love your posts. Very informative.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Digital Coax cable fron BlueJeans























Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

FordEscape said:


> A 'con' of this different approach is that OEM fade, balance and sub/center controls are forfeit in favor of those provided by the external DSP.
> .


I hope I'm understanding here:

With the PS850(PS8PRO DSP+AMP) I'm only loosing Rear to Front fade out of the OEM radio. I have it set to full rear on purpose with the rear speakers disconnected at the OEM amp input. I don't need or want rear fill in the Ridgeline.

If you want rears go for the Helix DSP MKII + Director. The director however, doesn't have: "Balance, Center and Fade". I believe it's limited to Master and Sub only.


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

You're of course correct, with any full-featured DSP and holistic SQ tune the notion of 'traditional' fade, balance, bass/treble is moot anyway, so that isn't a 'real' downside.

IMO use of rear (ambient) fill, just like use of an upmixed front center, is a matter of personal preference - some folks like 'em, some folks don't at all, some folks like 'em for certain situations - _No worries_ is what I say, do what tickles one's ears (or the ears of judges if competition is one's thing  )

I happen to have come into the world of DSP through the MS-8, and in that process came to enjoy Logic 7 with it's rear ambient fill for a lot of my in-car entertainment. Not for everyone I know, again, _no worries_.

Over my time with the MS-8 I ran with and without the upmixed center; I never found running the center quite as pleasing as a good non-center tune for solo listening, but always found it better than non-center 'optimized' for two occupants when sharing music with a front passenger. No surprise there I'm sure.

I wouldn't mind a DSP that would allow me to at least play play with those types of options again.

*IF* inclined in that direction a DSP needs (IMO) ...

8 outputs to allow 2-way front, rear fill, center and sub (could run 3-way front if tweeters and mids are closely co-located in the pillar with external XO, passive or active)
allow both low and high-level inputs
use the RL full-range high-level amp rear out only for the sole music input - routed, filtered & tuned as needed for all 8 music outputs (those rear amp outs never have any voice or tones mixed in, but do mute when those occur) 
use the low-level NAV&Phone voice and beep tones as discrete low-level DSP inputs - routing the former to the center, the latter to front L&R, just like OEM
*IF* wanted, use R+(L/180) and L+(R/180) with appropriate filtering, delay, level-setting, and perhaps phase tweaking to effect a semblance of rear ambient fill (no, not as sophisticated as MS-8, but if done carefully can enhance ambience with damaging the front stage). <that a matter of personal preference, take it or leave it, more _no worries_. 
All the above can be done with any number of Helix / ARC / Zapco / other?DSPs having 4 to 6 inputs and 8 outputs. Choice is good!

*IF* one wants to 'play' with a center then the field tightens a bit. As you know, ARC and Zapco don't currently offer an upmixed true-center algorithm. Helix does on certain units as does Alpine, maybe others?.

The Helix DSP.3 comes to mind as one that supports all of the above _and_ offers an upmixed "realcenter" algorithm (along with several other 'stage enhancing' algorithms which may or may not prove satisfying to use, but they're there to try, and abandon if not liked). Based on my conversations with Doug @ Helix' USA distributor (like ARC, a great customer / tech support organization), the RL NAV&Phone can be mixed with the DSP.3 "real center" while the Beeps and tones can be mixed with the front L&R - yielding the same sound distribution as the RL OEM system.

A second configuration could omit music on the center, allowing a 'traditional L & R front stage' with tune optimized for driver only, with nothing but NAV& phone on the center speaker (and automatic music mute on all others when that occurs).

Toggling between those two configurations can be done with the inexpensive/unobtrusive URC.3 (non-display) controller which can also provide master and sub volume control if wanted. Director is needed if one wants to toggle between more than 2 sound configurations (up to 10) and wants further adjustment capabilities without a PC connected (not a need I personally foresee using).

So, as you've pointed out before, lots of viable DSP choices depending on the user's end goals.

I do suggest that most of these would benefit from an approach where the OEM non-music signals (voices and tones) are separated from the music signals at the DSP input - allowing each to be processed and routed on it's own merits to it's own best effect, breaking the forced comingling of music & voices (especially on that nasty L+R center) found at the Ridgeline's OEM amp outputs.


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## Mtbhauler (Jun 9, 2019)

FordEscape said:


> >>>>>
> All that notwithstanding, _and not to discount any of that in the least_, as I study and test my OEM RTL-E (same as Black Edition) system, I think that there *may* be a 'conceptually different' approach that's viable for upgrading these systems. This based on the concept of tapping the NAV&Phone voice, and vehicle "Beep Tones" low-level analog signal between the A-N module and the OEM amp. Then, using only select high-level _music-only_ outputs from the OEM amp for external DSP music processing, with the NAV&Phone / Beep Tones mixed-in to select channels on the external DSP.
> 
> A 'pro' of this different approach is that it allows external DSP optimization of _music_ reproduction without any concern/interference relating to those non-music 'voices and tones'. Those non-music 'voices and tones' (all mono signals BTW) can be routed through the external DSP to be reproduced on select speakers of the user's choice, and the automatic 'music muting / attenuation' provided by the OEM system is retained (along with master volume and source selection via all the usual OEM control options).


Been super busy this summer. Haven't had time to follow up. I'm in the prewire stage on my system build. Curious if @FordEscape made any headway with tapping the stock system prior to the amp. My research in speaking with JL Audio indicated this to be a proprietary connection stream. Perhaps you've found other wise or the secret decoder ring ? 

I'd love to be able to use the Arc PS8 and keep stock steering wheel volume control without it affecting the eq and such. But I am prepared to use the ARC PCSC as the master volume if i have too.


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## pkoehler (Feb 12, 2020)

Sorry for the long post, but I have been trying to figure a lot of this out on my own and I saved up my questions. This has been an excellent thread with great information and very pertinent to my build as I have a very similar planned configuration to what AVIDEDTR setup. I have a 2019 Ridgeline Black Edition and I am planning on keeping the stock head unit, tapping into the speaker wires post factory amp, then to a DSP to control a 3-way front setup and 2 dual 10” subwoofers. While the inputs will not be lossless, I plan on getting my source music through Android Auto apps.

The major components I am looking at for my planned setup are:

Audio Frog GB10 tweeters that will be installed in the factory pillar locations.
Audio Frog GB25 midrange that will go into custom pods fabricated by Valicar that will be attached to the front pillars (similar to AVIDEDTRs setup)
Audio Frog GB60 midbass that will be installed into the factory front door locations
Audio Frog GB10D2 – 2 10” subs run at 2ohm that will be installed in custom box under rear seat (similar to AVIDEDTRs setup)
A DSP that can run all the necessary refinements that have been addressed previously in this thread (Leaning towards a Helix DSP PRO MK2 or DSP ULTRA with a DIRECTOR)
Amplifier with 6 channel out to run the 3 way speakers. I am very space constrained because I am installing the amps and DSP in the area where the factory subwoofer was previously located. If I had available space I would probably purchase the Zapco Z-150.6 AP, but given the space and wattage output I am looking at the MMats HiFi-6150D.
Subwoofer amplifier – I have a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP from a previous build and was looking to reuse for this installation.

Questions/ feedback:

I am set on the Audio Frog speakers and subwoofers as I have already purchased the Valicar pod along with the 2 subwoofer and built the box.
At this time, I do not plan on installing a center channel speaker, but I would consider it in the future after I have this system setup and running.
Regarding the DSP is there a compelling reason why I should purchase the Helix DP Ultra over the DSP PRO MK2 for this setup? Is there a different brand/model DSP you think would be a better choice?
Regarding the 6 channel amplifier I am interested in feedback on recommendations. I value sound quality and power over price for this build. As I mentioned I am space constrained to about a 13”x10” amp. Is there an amp you would recommend for the Audio Frog 3 way setup that would be a better choice than the MMats?
Regarding the subwoofer amplifier do you think the Rockford Fosgate will do the trick or do you think I need to upgrade to a different amplifier?
In reading about previous installations on Honda Ridgelines I see that folks tap into the factory audio signal after the factory amplifier. What type of connectors can I purchase to plug into the factory amplifier to capture this signal? Will I be able to keep the bed speaker signals in tact so I can continue to use that functionality?
I have always installed the negative power cable to the frame, but I noticed that AVIDEDTR ran the negative directly to the battery. Is there a benefit I would get by running the negative connection in a similar manner?
I am not confident in being able to pick the correct capacitor size for the GB10 tweeters. I noticed that AVIDEDTR used a Mundorf 47uF cap, would that work for this setup or should I get a different size?
Thanks for any and all help you can provide.

I really appreciate the help that AVIDEDTR provided in measuring his subwoofer box, I used his measurements from the beautiful box that SkizeR built to design and build mine. It was extremely challenging to get the box dimensions accurate to fit under the seat and also house the GB10D2 subs.

Subwoofer box I built:


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Well done Sir!


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

I'll offer comment on some of your Q's ....



pkoehler said:


> Regarding the DSP is there a compelling reason why I should purchase the Helix DP Ultra over the DSP PRO MK2 for this setup? Is there a different brand/model DSP you think would be a better choice?



Note that Pro MK2 does *not* offer ACO / "Real Center" capability; IMO critical IF you want the ability to add a good center channel commensurate with all the rest you are investing in; you can do a center with it but it won't get the benefit of "Real Center" processing that IMO you deserve based on the rest of the described system. IIRC currently in the Helix lineup only DSP Mini, DSP.3, and Ultra offer ACO / "Real Center" processing, and that capability cannot be added by firmware update, it's processor / hardware-based.
As described with 3-way front and sub you're using 7/8 of the output channels available on the Pro Mk2 assuming all are running active XO with discrete TA/level setting via the DSP; that leaves 1 for a 1-way center or a passive 2-way center. IF you want growth capability for a multi-way center or rear ambient fill, all on active XO and discrete channel tuning, the 12CH output on the Ultra would certainly be useful.
Not suggesting one over the other, just for your consideration given the 'top level' approach you seem to be taking.
As a general Q one might wonder your plan for avoiding the RL BE/-E 'polluted-center compromise' already discussed at length in this thread. It'd be a shame to suffer that given all the other work and $ you're investing, IMO.



pkoehler said:


> In reading about previous installations on Honda Ridgelines I see that folks tap into the factory audio signal after the factory amplifier. What type of connectors can I purchase to plug into the factory amplifier to capture this signal? Will I be able to keep the bed speaker signals in tact so I can continue to use that functionality?


See attachments to several of my posts in this thread on the ROC forum (schematics and RL amp connector pin assignments), note that the amp speaker-outs are distributed between two separate connectors:








G2 RTL-E & BE All Audio System Schematic (RTL-T...


I've compiled a schematic of the entire 2017-2019 G2 RTL-E / Black Edition Audio-Navigation System. It's dense with info that might be of interest to those with this system considering / undertaking audio mods. Includes a 'location key' to ID the connectors on the Audio-Navigation Unit and pin...




www.ridgelineownersclub.com




I'm not aware of anyone finding blank / pigtail connectors that mate to the RL amp, _*please post here if you find 'em*_. IMO you're looking at a DIY cut/ tap/ splice situation and using aftermarket multipin connectors if you want a 'break-joint' there (e.g. Molex or competitor).

If you don't mess with the feeds to the bed speakers, that part of the system will remain fully and functionally intact. Personally, I would not touch any OE circuit other than those absolutely necessary for your mod.



pkoehler said:


> I have always installed the negative power cable to the frame, but I noticed that AVIDEDTR ran the negative directly to the battery. Is there a benefit I would get by running the negative connection in a similar manner?


IMO a good ground is a good ground; personally I've never had any problems or issues with a proper chassis ground convenient to my 'DSP/amp array' location, I've never run a dedicated cable all the way to the battery negative terminal for an audio system ground. YMMV.



pkoehler said:


> I am not confident in being able to pick the correct capacitor size for the GB10 tweeters. I noticed that AVIDEDTR used a Mundorf 47uF cap, would that work for this setup or should I get a different size?


This article by Andy Wehmeyer of Audiofrog, which delves into protective capacitor selection, might be of interest:








To Cap or Not to Cap? Tweeters in Systems with Active Crosso...


Lets say you park your car on a hill. Let's also say it's a standard transmission, and you leave it in gear. It should be there when you return, right...




www.audiofrog.com





Ultimately, the real success or failure of it all will lie in the tune IMO ... great components have great potential, but the make-or-break is in the tune.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

pkoehler said:


> Questions/ feedback:
> 
> I am set on the Audio Frog speakers and subwoofers as I have already purchased the Valicar pod along with the 2 subwoofer and built the box.
> At this time, I do not plan on installing a center channel speaker, but I would consider it in the future after I have this system setup and running.
> ...



I am not confident in being able to pick the correct capacitor size for the GB10 tweeters. I noticed that AVIDEDTR used a Mundorf 47uF cap, would that work for this setup or should I get a different size?_ 

*Mundorf 47uF CAP is fine on the Frogs*_


I have always installed the negative power cable to the frame, but I noticed that AVIDEDTR ran the negative directly to the battery. Is there a benefit I would get by running the negative connection in a similar manner?

_*I've always had great luck with going direct, yes it costs more, but to me it's better in the end. You can always add a secondary frame/chassis ground.*_


Regarding the subwoofer amplifier do you think the Rockford Fosgate will do the trick or do you think I need to upgrade to a different amplifier?

_*I would recommend all in one amp. Arc Audio 1000.6 with IPS8.8(PS8PRO) + Arc Audio - Arc 1000.4 on the subs. Going this route simplifies your setup. No external DSP needed. The 1000.6 has 2 outputs that would feed the sub amp. It's super tight behind the rear seat and eliminating extra wiring will be a huge relief.*_


Regarding the DSP is there a compelling reason why I should purchase the Helix DP Ultra over the DSP PRO MK2 for this setup? Is there a different brand/model DSP you think would be a better choice?

*Helix has 2 key features over the ARC PS8PRO - Auto EQ analyzer for the OEM inputs and All Pass filters. So if those two options are important to you, Helix sells AMP/DSP combination that are competitively priced. I've installed both, and personally and found the sound quality of ARC 1000.6 edges it. The OEM EQ BAND options on the HELIX are lower but I can send you the OEM EQ information from my Honda Ridgeline-BE and you can skip this step.*


At this time, I do not plan on installing a center channel speaker, but I would consider it in the future after I have this system setup and running.

_*If upmixing to the center is NOT important, leave it in as is. If you want the Navigation to play thru the 6 speakers then run the signal to the DSP and mix it thru.*_


I am set on the Audio Frog speakers and subwoofers as I have already purchased the Valicar pod along with the 2 subwoofer and built the box.* 

Great choice, your won't be disappointed'*


In reading about previous installations on Honda Ridgelines I see that folks tap into the factory audio signal after the factory amplifier. What type of connectors can I purchase to plug into the factory amplifier to capture this signal? Will I be able to keep the bed speaker signals in tact so I can continue to use that functionality?

*9 conductor Speed wire would be your best option here:





Stinger 9 Conductor Speedwire Speaker Wire - 20 feet, Model: SGW9920, Electronic Store:Amazon:Home Audio & Theater


Amazon Stinger 9 Conductor Speedwire Speaker Wire - 20 feet, Model: SGW9920, Electronic Store



www.amazon.com




*
_*Use one length from the Factory output to the inputs on the amp -- sub signal is located at the rear*_
_*cut the factory output plug with at least 6" tails on the OEM plug*_
_*Make sure you acquire the REARS, FRONT DOORS and TWEETERS*_
_*REARS (FULL RANGE *_
_*FRONT DOORS + TWEETERS (TELEPHONE etc)*_


*Use another length from the Amp to theOEM factory Plug output pig tails.*


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## pkoehler (Feb 12, 2020)

Excellent information, I really appreciate the feedback. A little more background on me, I have installed many Head Units and Subwoofer/Amps in my previous cars and I am comfortable with that. This is the first time delving into a DSP setup and replacing all the speakers. I will definitely be spending time online researching DSP tuning help or hiring an experienced tuner that can do an initial tune and get me comfortable with it.

Regarding the center channel, based on the feedback I am re-looking at my planned approach. I was initially looking at either leaving the center channel hooked up in the stock configuration and using it only for guidance feedback, or running the center speaker input into the DSP and having the guidance play on the front speakers. One of my main reasons for not adding a center channel to this configuration is because with the three-way front speakers I would be looking at having to add in another amplifier to power the 7th center speaker. I want lots of power and I have not found a high power amplifier with more than 6 channels that would fit in the required install space. I plan to have this car for 20-25 years therefore I am willing to spend the money if adding a center channel to the DSP and amp setup would be the ideal for sound quality and giving me more tuning options.



FordEscape said:


> Note that Pro MK2 does *not* offer ACO / "Real Center" capability; IMO critical IF you want the ability to add a good center channel commensurate with all the rest you are investing in; you can do a center with it but it won't get the benefit of "Real Center" processing that IMO you deserve based on the rest of the described system. IIRC currently in the Helix lineup only DSP Mini, DSP.3, and Ultra offer ACO / "Real Center" processing, and that capability cannot be added by firmware update, it's processor / hardware-based.
> As described with 3-way front and sub you're using 7/8 of the output channels available on the Pro Mk2 assuming all are running active XO with discrete TA/level setting via the DSP; that leaves 1 for a 1-way center or a passive 2-way center. IF you want growth capability for a multi-way center or rear ambient fill, all on active XO and discrete channel tuning, the 12CH output on the Ultra would certainly be useful.





AVIDEDTR said:


> _*I would recommend all in one amp. Arc Audio 1000.6 with IPS8.8(PS8PRO) + Arc Audio - Arc 1000.4 on the subs. Going this route simplifies your setup. No external DSP needed. The 1000.6 has 2 outputs that would feed the sub amp. It's super tight behind the rear seat and eliminating extra wiring will be a huge relief.*_


I really like the options that AVIDEDTR laid out with the Arc Audio 1000.6 with IPS8.8 + Arc Audio 1000.4. They seem like they would be perfect if I didn't need "Real Center" processing, or amplification on board for the center channel. The IPS8.8 has 2 channels out so I assume I could use one of the output channels for the subwoofer amp and one for a center channel amplifier source.

Per FordEscape, the Helix DSP Ultra looks like what I should go with if I want "Real Center" processing, but I still would need to find a way to amplify the center channel. 

Which leads me to my questions: 

Should i pursue adding the center channel into the DSP/ Amp requirements?
Does the "Real Center" processing of the Helix Ultra make it worth pursuing over the Arc PS8PRO?
Thoughts on how to power/ amplifiers that I could use to power the center channel coming out of the DSP?
Crutchfield does not show the Audio Frog GB25 as fitting the Center Channel space, what speaker would you recommend I install either using the factory power or with an amplified source?

Thanks for all the other tips that were provided, i will be adding them to my research and install plans.


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

IMO a center channel should only be in discussion if you regularly carry a passenger and want them to enjoy the same least-compromised listening experience the driver gets.

If you don't care about that passenger IMO it's a no-brainer - don't install a center channel and concentrate on getting a great tune for the driver-only with a phantom center. Done well that'll be an absolutely killer, no compromise situation, and likely easier to achieve that optimal driver-only experience _without_ a center speaker. IMO _any_ multi-seat accommodation will be compromised to some degree when compared to a well-tuned single seat accommodation with phantom center.

If driven to accommodate that passenger to the best possible / least compromised extent, that's when a physical center comes into play, and that's when a really good _upmixing algorithm_ helps minimize the compromise both positions suffer in comparison to a driver-optimized phantom center.

ARC acknowledges they use a relatively simple set of mix and level-setting tools for their center channel construct. As mentioned somewhere back in this thread Fred at ARC readily acknowledges they do not offer an "upmixed" center such as Logic 7 and certain Dolby proprietary algorithms. I don't know if Helix "Real Center" is technically "upmixed" but it's reported (see trusted SkizeR) to be 'as good as Logic 7 center' when properly tuned.

IMO the answer to the 'worth' question lies first in whether or not you want to accommodate that passenger at all; if that's a 'yes' then in your aspirations of the quality of that accommodation.

One thing to consider in all of that .... some DSPs allow you to configure a tune optimized for a driver-only situation with _no_ center-speaker in-play, and support a simple 'toggle' to a mutli-seat configuration _with_ a center in-play (after each configuration has been independently tuned to its best and 'saved'). That might make a 'compromised but better' mutli-seat situation more palatable for the driver who is mostly alone. IIRC the ARC will support that sort of easily-toggled 'dual-tune', but @AVIDEDTR could answer that for sure.


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## FordEscape (Nov 23, 2014)

pkoehler said:


> Thoughts on how to power/ amplifiers that I could use to power the center channel coming out of the DSP?
> Crutchfield does not show the Audio Frog GB25 as fitting the Center Channel space, what speaker would you recommend I install either using the factory power or with an amplified source?


On that part of the equation if you decide you want the multi-seat accommodation, Andy Wehmeyer has suggested that in the context of Logic 7 center ... the closer your center is 'matched' to the response and output level capability of your L&R above ~180 Hz or so, the _better_. I suspect that's valid no matter the algorithm / mix applied to the center. But all installs are balance of compromises, eh?

Specific to the RL, yes, I know for a fact the GB25 will fit nicely within the OE location / grille with an easy DIY baffle-plate-adaptor. In my best mock-up _estimation_ a GB25+GB10 can be squeezed in there without any dash mod but with stealth mod to the cheap drop-on OE grille; same for the GS42 coax (that I have in hand and have done an actual mock-up with on my RL).

I just acquired a single GB15 to match the GB15's I intend to use in my 2-way L&R; I've yet to figure out if I can pair that with some other mid in the RL center location (e.g. I've got some L3xx HATs on hand to play with). I'm motivated keep that center as stealth as possible; I'll hack on the grille but not the dash itself beyond what the OE grille-trim covers. Likely gonna have to accept some SQ compromises due to that self-imposed constraint.

So, while none of that installed, tuned, and tested .... perhaps some info / ideas there for your RL project consideration along with @AVIDEDTR's solutions.


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## pilk (Sep 21, 2005)

I know this thread is a bit aged but hopefully some of the people here are still following. I've read this thing through couple times. I'm a novice with DSP. I'm thinking of using a Helix V 8 and replacing all the speakers, adding a mono amp and subwoofer .

Is it not a case of a 1-1 run from the amp speaker outputs to the DSP and then back to the speaker wires? Would that not keep everything factory but just add the DSP to tune to the new speakers? I'm struggling to find a shop within a reasonable distance that has messed with the E trim audio system.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

pilk said:


> I know this thread is a bit aged but hopefully some of the people here are still following. I've read this thing through couple times. I'm a novice with DSP. I'm thinking of using a Helix V 8 and replacing all the speakers, adding a mono amp and subwoofer .
> 
> Is it not a case of a 1-1 run from the amp speaker outputs to the DSP and then back to the speaker wires? Would that not keep everything factory but just add the DSP to tune to the new speakers? I'm struggling to find a shop within a reasonable distance that has messed with the E trim audio system.


Helix will work fine.


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Helix will work fine.





pilk said:


> Is it not a case of a 1-1 run from the amp speaker outputs to the DSP and then back to the speaker wires? Would that not keep everything factory but just add the DSP to tune to the new speakers? I'm struggling to find a shop within a reasonable distance that has messed with the E trim audio system.


Yes this is a case of 1 - 1 run. Your challenge will be the input routing to get it right on the helix.


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## pilk (Sep 21, 2005)

AVIDEDTR said:


> Yes this is a case of 1 - 1 run. Your challenge will be the input routing to get it right on the helix.


You and a few others have left plenty of good evidence behind. What would happen if I took all 8 inputs in but didn't amplify the center. I really have not heard a system that agreed with me that had a center channel.


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## MythosDreamLab (Nov 28, 2020)

That's cool you have the OEM CD player, is that your best sound source?


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

I tried the center initially, then put it back to the stock signal. Wasnt worth the effort.

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

MythosDreamLab said:


> That's cool you have the OEM CD player, is that your best sound source?


No sir. I use a FiiO M11 over Coax. 

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk


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