# S-10..Hertz plus Rainbow build log



## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

n this install, I am using the hertz space 8 mated with the Rainbow cal 27. I have a small issue with the baffle. It is a large gap. Any suggestions on how to fix?

Would deadener work? I have a near ton of sawdust to get rid of if that would help.


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## alphakenny1 (Dec 21, 2005)

fill that up with some clay.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

What sould I use to ensure none falls on the driver?


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## alphakenny1 (Dec 21, 2005)

hmm how big of a gap is it? maybe you can add some more mdf to fill in that gap. then fill it in with clay.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I'll take a look.


I am thinking of using expanding foam.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Use non-hardening modeling clay. It won't fall on the driver. It stays pliable. I had some in my door for a year in Wisconsin. Temps from -10 F to 100 and humid. I had no problems with it. 

Just keep taking it and packing it into your gaps. When you have everything filled and you've done it all around smooth it out and then cover with deadener.


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## kimokalihi (May 27, 2007)

I wouldn't trust the clay. I put clay in my doors and it melted and fell on my drivers. I pulled the drivers out after several months in the middle of this summer and found clay on the magnets and the frame. 

Just layer up a bunch of deadener in there. I had a gap like that too, not sure if it was that big but I just put a bunch of layers of deadener in that gap and then I put deadener on the inside of the speaker ring and pressed it inside the door to the backside of the metal so it sealed it up. They sound great now!

Deadener for the win! The only way I'd use clay is if you put deadener on the inside of the ring and all the way to the inside of the door skin. That way none of it can leak onto you driver.


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## c0mpl3x (Nov 30, 2005)

A few layers of fiberglass would work quite well to fill the gap and still be structurally sound.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I am using a mixture of silicon and deadener. I am pretty sure that will do the trick.


Next phase of the install is mounting the Cal27s in the A-pillars.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Some expanding foam would work and take about 3 seconds to do it.


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## Aznattic (Jul 4, 2007)

What year S10 you got?


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Why not good ol silicon for the gap.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Or some damping mat on the inside and outside?


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Aznattic said:


> What year S10 you got?


It's a 2001.

I had the same mids you do but I didn't wnt to cut the door.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I am using silicon. My friend said expect it to take a couple days to dry.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Now I need help on trying to make a ring for my cal27s. Is it much more diffuclt that making them for much larger drivers?


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## AwaySooner (May 30, 2007)

Yeah especially in a large area. You should seal it with RAAMMat too. 

Where's the rest of the photos? 



Flipx99 said:


> I am using silicon. My friend said expect it to take a couple days to dry.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

first take a pair of channel lock pliers and close the gap by squeezing the metal and baffle. Thatll close the gap. Then fill it with clay, then lay the deadener over.

or swap the clay with liquid nails or other caulk/caulk alternative


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## ArcL100 (Jun 17, 2005)

Flipx99 said:


> I am thinking of using expanding foam.





quality_sound said:


> Some expanding foam would work and take about 3 seconds to do it.


No ****! Why WOULDN'T you use expanding foam and call it a day?

-aaron


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## aneonrider (Apr 28, 2007)

Expanding foam, sand it down then add some deadener over it.


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## silent1 (Jun 2, 2005)

I'd stay away from the clay. I used it in my truck, and while it may work up north, it is oil based and melts like butter. Expanding foam would be the easiest way. I would probally fiberglass it.


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## s2groove (May 18, 2007)

I want to see some more pics. This install is looking interesting.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I filled that with silicon on Sunday and I still have fumes....not very bad though.

Install is on hold until I decide on a midrange.

Need something to play up 200- 6k. I am thinking the legatia 4.

Going to Nopi this weekend, won't be able to get the midrange until next weekend.

I am *hoping* to be done by mid Oct so it won't be cold out.


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## s2groove (May 18, 2007)

are you going to put the midrange on the dash?


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

s2groove said:


> are you going to out the midrange on the dash?


midrange and tweeter in a heavily deadened q-form in the kicks.

Some have mentioned using the factory dash 4x6 location...I like the q-form idea better.


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## s2groove (May 18, 2007)

What are you going to use for processing a 3way+sub?


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

s2groove said:


> What are you going to use for processing a 3way+sub?


I have a four channel...

Control the midbass actively and use a passive crossover between the midrange/tweeter.

Eventually, I will get a DRZ, sell my two sub amps, and run everything from two four channel amps.


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## s2groove (May 18, 2007)

if your going to use the passives, use the hertz passives (great components inside) and how about this mid: http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm then click on the hv100 mid under the high energy section.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

s2groove said:


> if your going to use the passives, use the hertz passives (great components inside) and how about this mid: http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm


I have to use the .pdf file from the tech specs link. I can't see anything with pictures at work.

Wouldn't I 'lose out' because the passives cross pretty low?

I thought you were supposed to use the midrange for the widest bandwith possible?


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## s2groove (May 18, 2007)

true, I had forgetten they crossed that low.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I picked up a set of other crossovers that cross at either 3 or 6k....So I am find there. Just need a good choice of midrange.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Expanding foam with deadener over it FTFW!


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## finebar4 (Aug 26, 2005)

I have a set of 4" Rainbow Power series...89 dB, 80-100 watts recommended, blend real good with the CAL27's  I have the passives that came with them as well. Brand new never seen power.


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## fastev (May 28, 2007)

What kind of depth can you get in your doors? I am planning on moving the window track out with some washers, and adding some MDF baffles. Would you mind measuring your if you have a chance? Thanks!


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

fastev said:


> What kind of depth can you get in your doors? I am planning on moving the window track out with some washers, and adding some MDF baffles. Would you mind measuring your if you have a chance? Thanks!


Depends.


If you go with the stock baffle and make the window track adjustment, 2.5" is no big issue.

If you go with 8" midbass, you have to fabricate everything and it makes it much much harder.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Also, after hearing some well tuned cars, I decided the 4" midrange won't be worth my while at this juncture. Just going to spend the time tuning what I have.


I should have some more pics next weekend. I spent this weekend at Nopi Nats.


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## fastev (May 28, 2007)

Flipx99 said:


> Depends.
> 
> 
> If you go with the stock baffle and make the window track adjustment, 2.5" is no big issue.
> ...


So I'll most likely have to debuck my RS180's... I was hoping to get away with shoving them in there right out of the box. Thanks for checking!


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

fastev said:


> So I'll most likely have to debuck my RS180's... I was hoping to get away with shoving them in there right out of the box. Thanks for checking!


But they are 7s. It may not fit in the basket. That is why my profi kicks didn't work...because of the basket.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

If I could start all over with the knowledge I have now, I would go with the dynaudio 142GT set. It's a little pricey but I am sure it will it the OEM basket.

I done cut too much out of my door panel to consider such things now.


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## fastev (May 28, 2007)

I haven't done a thing to mine yet. I am planning on making MDF baffles, so the 7" basket shouldn't matter. I saw a picture where a guy was able to use two 3/4" MDF baffles stacked and got the stock door panel on with no interference. I find it a little hard to believe 1.5" of baffle will fit, but I guess we'll see...


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

fastev said:


> I haven't done a thing to mine yet. I am planning on making MDF baffles, so the 7" basket shouldn't matter. I saw a picture where a guy was able to use two 3/4" MDF baffles stacked and got the stock door panel on with no interference. I find it a little hard to believe 1.5" of baffle will fit, but I guess we'll see...


I was unable to recreate that.

Building the baffle by scratch is diffcult for me because it shifts to the back as it gets taller, if you get what I mean.


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## fastev (May 28, 2007)

I think I know what you mean. I have a few cans of expanding foam, a roll of BXT, and some fiberglass just in case...


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

fastev said:


> I think I know what you mean. I have a few cans of expanding foam, a roll of BXT, and some fiberglass just in case...


The issue I am having more than the baffle moving is the door moves. When I pull on the baffle the door itself moves...I still want to try to get one more bolt in the upper corner....then I have to figure out how to keep the door from vibrating so much.


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## fastev (May 28, 2007)

Just wondering if you made any progress?


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I got some silicon around the gap. It sealed and adhered pretty well.

Still haven't finished much due to non-car audio commitments.

Still hung up on where to mount the tweeter. The door is the frontrunner for ease of install purposes.

I still debate on to go 3 way or not go 3way active front stage. I am thinking just keeping 2 way active should be enough and if after a bunch of issues, I can't get it to sound good then 3 way.

I need a few more parts and all. Hoping to make some progress on wednesday after noon. A little more progress on columbus day and the following weekend.


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## Peter_Euro (Oct 25, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> I'll take a look.
> 
> 
> I am thinking of using expanding foam.


 why not use fiberglass reinforced body filler and mold the outer parameter to conform to the door skin surface? Pretty simple to do, it will bond to MDF. You can use some resin to coat both body filler and MDF and then follow with 1/8in closed cell foam to finish the contact surface to assure good seal...


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Hmmm...

Intersting possibility.

I wish I would have thought of it before.

It would be more secure...I guess I can always tear down and rebuild....again.


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## Peter_Euro (Oct 25, 2006)

Flipx99 said:


> Hmmm...
> 
> Intersting possibility.
> 
> ...


if you don't get it right the first time, you will be tearing it down eventually to fix it anyway... Although I found the clay suggestion pretty enterntaining...


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Remove the baffle.

Sound deadener on the door skin.

Fill area with reinforced filler. Use the kind with the beads and add your own short pieces of choped matt to reinforce further. 

Sand back of MDF baffle where it meets the door with 30 grit and press into place.

Smooth it out. Once it dries you can seal the section with silicone.

It's filled. It's not brittle. And it's removable.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

Got one door spectrum'd


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## nimbyfaygo (Oct 10, 2007)

Looks real good. 
Using a 6.5in speaker you can get away with using 1.5in baffles. With a larger speaker I don't think 1.5 would work. Using two stacked 3/4in rings I did get the stock door panel back on without any interference, I just had to modify the mounting tab directly below the speaker.
I'm the guy that posts over on S10 forum. I installed a set of cira 2002 Rockford Fanatic Q Components into my doors.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I wish I could have got that to work. I never could get it to work exactly right. Where the speaker would line up directly behind the grill.

With the space 8s I could get by with one piece of .75 and a small spacer. I am going to do the other door this weekend and post some pics.


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## nimbyfaygo (Oct 10, 2007)

Flipx99 said:


> I wish I could have got that to work. I never could get it to work exactly right. Where the speaker would line up directly behind the grill.
> 
> With the space 8s I could get by with one piece of .75 and a small spacer. I am going to do the other door this weekend and post some pics.


Well mine isn't lined up exactly perfect. Its about 1/4in lower than the grille. The rings I made were about 7 1/2 outer diameter, and I lined them up by placing them even with the lower window track bolt. 
I had a couple of pretty big gaps around the rings, but I used small scraps of mdf and liquid nails to fill the gaps. It worked pretty well I ended up covering the rings and speaker mounting surfaces with raammat. (BTW raammat is very good stuff)


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

nimbyfaygo said:


> Well mine isn't lined up exactly perfect. Its about 1/4in lower than the grille. The rings I made were about 7 1/2 outer diameter, and I lined them up by placing them even with the lower window track bolt.
> I had a couple of pretty big gaps around the rings, but I used small scraps of mdf and liquid nails to fill the gaps. It worked pretty well I ended up covering the rings and speaker mounting surfaces with raammat. (BTW raammat is very good stuff)


I was hoping to evade the gap problem...

I am thinking if I do anything in the future I am going to try to glass against the door itself, make a mold and build out and take advantage of different drivers. I am afraid of how it will look aethetically...

Alas, I want to get this build done 1st before thinking about the next build.


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## Selkies (Mar 13, 2008)

Any pics of how this turned out?


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## JoelM (Nov 16, 2007)

Here is how I did mine. Two layers of 3/4" MDF with Duraglass in between. The 3/4" top layer is angled to match the stock panel and it lined up perfectly. I just used the stock plastic spacer to take measurements for the angle. Then I coated the whole thing with Cascade Quiet Kote which stays pretty flexible. This is for a Dynaudio MW-160.


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