# 4 gauge power wire into 8 gauge amp



## Ryan F (Jan 25, 2012)

I'd like to install an Alpine MRV-T503 I have. I want to run 4 gauge power wire for when I probably add another amp in the future. The amp accepts 8 gauge. I've found that Stinger, Monster, and others make reducer/adapters to solve my problem. After searching this site yesterday about them some folks said they'd rather trim the 4 gauge 'properly' than use the reducer. I don't know what 'properly' means in this case, can someone explain? I would've bought some reducers yesterday (one for power and ground) but no one locally stocks them. I'd have to order the reducers if I want to try them but that means I won't be installing today. Thanks for any advice. 
Ryan


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

-Strip off a little extra insulation than you normally would for the given wire length needed. An extra half inch you be enough.

-Carefully separate the individual multi strand bundles, moving to the side as many as you need so that the large piece is the size you need to fit in the 8 gauge hole.

-Then cut off, as close as you can to the insulation, the bundles you won't need. 

-Careful not to do this with a tool that will leave little copper shards which could fall into the amp and short it out.

-Put some heat shrink over the the now exposed wire that isn't in the amp set screw well.


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## Ryan F (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. What do you mean by tool that won't leave strands? Which do you think is better, reducer or cutting? I'd have to find some heat shrink, wonder if Home Depot has some? I haven't done an install in years ans have nothing laying around. Sorry for the questions. 
Ryan


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

Just use a good wire cutter. 

I'd cut the wire. Set screw terminals aren't designed to clamp down on a hard piece of material like a reducer. The only contact area will be under the reducer where it lays over the well. Which if you can visualize it, a smaller diameter shaft can only touch a small area when laying inside a larger well. A wire will get squeezed into at least half of that wells walls. 

The set screw itself will also limit contact if applied to a hard surface. Say the set screw is somewhat pointy on the tip. only that point will make contact with the reducer. Where as a set screw on a wire will dig into the wire and form cavity that comes in contact with more of the screw. 

Just make sure to back the screw out as much as possible and leave as much wire as possible. That way the wire doesn't get squeeze away from the screw and just float in the excess area, not making contact.


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## [email protected] (Jul 21, 2011)

What are the cons to a proper distribution block? Not that I have anything against the stripping method but I am curious as to the logic on the distribution block? And in your case won't you have to use one when you install your next amp?


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## kyheng (Jan 31, 2007)

Actually using distribution block are better....


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## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

There's no drawback to using a distro block. Probably the cleanest solution But t3 is dead on about the reducer not being secured well in a set screw terminal. I've never trusted them (even though I didn't have a problem with it in my last install  ).

An alternative, btw, might be to run two 8ga wires... That way if you decide to add a second amp in the future you'd have one already run.


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## Ryan F (Jan 25, 2012)

Wow, thanks for all the responses. I was trying to not use a distribution and a ground block because I was trying to keep the install simple, and those are additional parts. I want to run 4 gauge because a lot of newer amps accept them and I feel like it's better overall for power when/if I add/upgrade in the future. I know it'd be easier if I knew exactly what my future plans were, but I don't. I am trying to keep this as simple and clean as possible at this point. 
Ryan


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

Ryan F said:


> Wow, thanks for all the responses. I was trying to not use a distribution and a ground block because I was trying to keep the install simple, and those are additional parts.


adding one piece, which is easily installed and removed, makes the install complicated?


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## [email protected] (Jul 21, 2011)

Ryan F said:


> Wow, thanks for all the responses. I was trying to not use a distribution and a ground block because I was trying to keep the install simple, and those are additional parts. I want to run 4 gauge because a lot of newer amps accept them and I feel like it's better overall for power when/if I add/upgrade in the future. I know it'd be easier if I knew exactly what my future plans were, but I don't. I am trying to keep this as simple and clean as possible at this point.
> Ryan


Using a simple non fused dust block will make things more simple... Better termination and cleaner setup as well as more flexibility for future changes...


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## [email protected] (Jul 21, 2011)

Oh and when I used a pin style connection I drilled and tapped them to match the set screw threads... Use a little blue loctite and no worries. Held my 0 gauge main connections on my road race car for 5 years, it was perfectly torqued when I removed it!


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## boogeyman (Jul 1, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Using a simple non fused dust block will make things more simple... Better termination and cleaner setup as well as more flexibility for future changes...


My advice as well


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## Ryan F (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks all for the advice. I don't think I'll be getting the reducers. Leaning towards getting distro and ground blocks, since I'm planning on getting another amp at some point may as well get the blocks now. I'm mounting the amp under a front seat so I probably won't attach the blocks to the floor yet as I'm not sure where their final location would be. 
Ryan


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