# How to make your own Remote Controller for Helix and Brax DSPs



## coobah

Hi!

Here's the schematic (from Audiotec-Fischer) useful for makin your own remote controller compatible with the DSP's from Helix (P-DSP and C-DSP) and Brax (NOX4 amplifier built-in DSP).

Apparently this thing is A MUST if you have only one sound source, you connect it thru the optical fiber and you would like to control the volume level of your system 

You will need a 10k Ohm linear potentiometer (or 2 if you'd like to have the sub control too) and a 12pin male "Micro Match" type connector (1.27 mm pin threshold)

Most potentiometers will have 3 connectros they're A C B no matter from which side you look. (but remember they will work "from the left to the right" for the side you looked from  ) so... you connect:
A) +3.3V
C) control signal (main remote / sub remote)
B) ground (masse)

Of course you can have the + and - "bridged" till your potentiometers - so for two pots you'll need 4 wire cable.









View attachment DSP Level Regler.pdf


If you'd have any problems with locating the pin numbers - here's explanation.

View attachment Pinning MicroMatch Control Input.pdf


I still don't know what the "Switch" connectors are for. Will post an update when find out (I believe they are for swithing between 2 saved configs but I'm not sure yet)


----------



## mob17

Nice work. 

Just a few questions;

Is any 10k linear potentiometer suitable? 
Is any male to male micromatch connector (1.27 pitch) suitable?
Why are the pins for the P-DSP labelled right to left on your diagram, but left to right on the schematics?


----------



## coobah

mob17 said:


> Nice work.
> 
> Just a few questions;
> 
> Is any 10k linear potentiometer suitable?
> Is any male to male micromatch connector (1.27 pitch) suitable?
> Why are the pins for the P-DSP labelled right to left on your diagram, but left to right on the schematics?


1. Well, I think any "one turn", linear, 10k should be OK. I used carbon/graphite ones - just like for the usual volume control.
2. There's no "male to male" connector as the socket in the DSP is female. Any male 12 pin Micro Match will be ok. The only difference will be how you connect your wires to the plug. (ribbon / solder etc.)
3. It's dependant on the positioning of the socket on the DSP - as you can see the pin 12 is on the left in P-DSP and NOX4 but it's on the right in C-DSP. The pin 12 will always be on the side with the "gap".


----------



## mob17

coobah said:


> 1. Well, I think any "one turn", linear, 10k should be OK. I used carbon/graphite ones - just like for the usual volume control.
> 2. There's no "male to male" connector as the socket in the DSP is female. Any male 12 pin Micro Match will be ok. The only difference will be how you connect your wires to the plug. (ribbon / solder etc.)
> 3. It's dependant on the positioning of the socket on the DSP - as you can see the pin 12 is on the left in P-DSP and NOX4 but it's on the right in C-DSP. The pin 12 will always be on the side with the "gap".


Thanks. Yes I meant the male plug! Think i'm going to go for ribbon and i understand the pin positioning now  Just wish Helix made it clear on the schematic.


----------



## coobah

BTW: I you're really unsure of the pin locations you can always use two needles and a multimeter to find the +3.3V and GROUND coneectors. (just be be careful to not short circuit them  )


----------



## mob17

coobah said:


> BTW: I you're really unsure of the pin locations you can always use two needles and a multimeter to find the +3.3V and GROUND coneectors. (just be be careful to not short circuit them  )


Ordered a few of the connectors today. My soldering technique is probably really bad but im first going to see if it works then maybe get my installer to do a better job. 

Its ok you've made the pin locations clear now. Plus i wouldn't trust myself i'd probably fry it or something!


----------



## coobah

OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.


----------



## mob17

coobah said:


> OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.


So if im just using speaker level input, there's no need to connect the "switch" right?


----------



## coobah

Right.


----------



## mob17

Would this dual pot work if requiring both master and sub control?

27ESA103MMF50N - TE CONNECTIVITY / CITEC - POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG, 10K, LIN | Farnell United Kingdom


----------



## rsjaurr

coobah said:


> OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.


What type of "switch" is to be used is it the usual on/off type? Do you have a link for that?


----------



## coobah

I'm not so familiar with electronic components and their names/symbols.

About the pot - physically you need two separate pots for both controls. So as long as this pot can control both of his "gangs" separately (push/pull) it is ok.

And to the switch - again don't know the proper names but you'll need a swith that will switch between two inputs into one output. Physically you need to put OR the +3.3V OR the Ground to Pin 5. It's made to avoid any undefined state.


----------



## RoyAlpine

Hi,
since we have to install 5 wires to front,
do you think ehternet cable will be good enough?
( im affraid the wires in ethernet cable too thins. )


----------



## hemman

I have information about C-DSP:
The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
“... 
the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”

So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use C-DSP with the URC 2A


----------



## rsjaurr

hemman said:


> I have information about *C-DSP*:
> The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
> “...
> the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
> The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
> It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
> If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
> The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”
> 
> So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use *C-DSP* with the URC 2A


Is it same for P DSP as well?


----------



## hemman

rsjaurr said:


> Is it same for P DSP as well?


I think so......


I used new release of P-DSP(Helix DSP). It has round connector for the remote control, instead of square. 

I installed Helix DSP month ago. 
The main problem of P-DSP, C-DSP, Helix DSP - are opened inputs.
When i send SPDIF(from DVD changer DHA-S680) or High Level(OEM Head unit) to the processor, I always have a powerful punch on the output of DSP in front of speakers. I am shocked by this!!!!!!!!!!!!

This problem has not been solved by HELIX.
It is very sad.

I'm thinking I'll install Alpine PXA-H800 + RUX-C800 instead of Helix DSP.


----------



## rsjaurr

If it is so then its really shocking for Helix not to have supported their product.I was planning to use both ipod classic 160GB/iphone 64GB via pure i20 to DSP to play stored apple lossless music *and* stock HU of my car for CDs but now i guess I may have to go for 80PRS to play CD/ipod or just ipod/phone.


----------



## hemman

rsjaurr said:


> If it is so then its really shocking for Helix not to have supported their product.I was planning to use both ipod classic 160GB/iphone 64GB via pure i20 to DSP to play stored apple lossless music *and* stock HU of my car for CDs but now i guess I may have to go for 80PRS to play CD/ipod or just ipod/phone.



For example:
If you forget turn the volume to zero - you may damage your speakers! This fact is not in favor of Auditec-Fischer.
:hanged:


----------



## coobah

After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.


----------



## hemman

coobah said:


> After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:
> 
> "... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.
> 
> Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."
> 
> As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.
> 
> The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.



Kick appears when I turn on the DVD (Alpine DHA-S680) - appears SPDIF and volume control is turn on. The louder the sound, the more kick.


----------



## rsjaurr

coobah said:


> After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:
> 
> "... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.
> 
> *Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good.* ..."
> 
> As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.
> 
> The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that *I DIDN'T notice* any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.


So does that mean switch should be 2 position on-on type rather than on-off-on? This way there will always be one defined value either radio or digital source.


----------



## hemman

rsjaurr said:


> So does that mean switch should be 2 position on-on type rather than on-off-on. This way there will be one defined value always either radio or digital source?



You're right.


----------



## RoyAlpine

Is there anyone that has spare micro-match 12pin for sell?


----------



## coobah

RoyAlpine said:


> Is there anyone that has spare micro-match 12pin for sell?


I got one but I'm from Poland so can be expensive to ship :laugh:


----------



## rsjaurr

coobah said:


> After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:
> 
> "... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.
> 
> Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."
> 
> As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.
> 
> The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.


After I have hooked two sources (digital and analog) to P DSP how should I go about configuring input channels, both analog input and optical input channels?


----------



## rsjaurr

few pics of the remote I made with the help of local electrician.


----------



## RoyAlpine

Nice work! Btw which dsp do you have c or p?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## rsjaurr

RoyAlpine said:


> Nice work! Btw which dsp do you have c or p?
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2



I own P-DSP and it will be going IN on Sunday.


----------



## GEE

Does someone have the new pin match for the remote that use only 8 pins (round connector) ??

Thanks


----------



## hemman

GEE said:


> Does someone have the new pin match for the remote that use only 8 pins (round connector) ??
> 
> Thanks



See attached.


----------



## GEE

Thank you very much !!


----------



## GEE

And do you know where the pin switch is ?


----------



## LiQuiDz

Thanks for the info

is there way to use this connector to make the C-DSP switch between Preset 1 & 2 ?



**Edit** 

I found on the audiotec-fischer web site even the real remote cant do it


----------



## GEE

Hello !
I got the pin match yesterday from audiotec fisher !!



---
Attached you find the pinning of the connector, for identifying the pins look for the asymmetrically aligned pitch.
The shielding is GND.
SUB = subwoofer volume; MAIN = main volume booth 10k potentiometers between 3V3 and GND.
SWITCH = the switch between 3V3 and GND.

At this moment, I can't specify you a release date for the new revision of our software, sorry for that.
---


----------



## Mapletech

Here's my version, with just a bit more info since I took my URC apart.
The bi-colour LED is only necessary if you're using a pushbutton switch that doesn't give any indication as to which state it's in (ie. in/out), but if you use a toggle or rocker switch then you don't need it (unless you like more lights!)

I found the connector at Newark Electronics, their part # 97K5346. $3 - so buy a couple - the pins are tiny and the ABS can melt if you don't solder quickly.


----------



## SPLEclipse

I scored a great deal on a P-DSP and it's on the way! I'm going to go ahead and order the components for the remote, but I have a question: What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?

Comparison at Mouser:
TE Connectivity / AMP 8-215083-2 Headers & Wire Housings | Mouser

Comparison at digikey:
Rectangular Connectors - Free Hanging, Panel Mount | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?


----------



## Hextall 27

SPLEclipse said:


> What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?
> 
> Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?


Difference is the pitch. Correct number is 571-1-215083-2 with a 1.27 pitch as per the first post.


----------



## SPLEclipse

Hextall 27 said:


> Difference is the pitch. Correct number is 571-1-215083-2 with a 1.27 pitch as per the first post.


Ahhh...thanks! I for the life of me couldn't find any difference between the two in the product sheet until you pointed that out. Doh!


----------



## jdigital

Gonna go ahead and build one of these right now. Thanks so much for the very helpful info. I love knurled metal knobs.


----------



## Mapletech

Hey jDigital...
Methinks you messed up on a couple of parts there. The pots should be linear taper (granted that Log is typical for audio, but the processor expects a linear taper as it is just a control voltage), and the 8-pin connector should be a plug, not a socket. I think that's digi-key #2080-ND.


----------



## jdigital

I have some 10k ohm linear pots already, but wanted log curve also just in case. Are you certain helix takes the linear input and adjusts the volume with a logarithmic curve? I plan to connect the controller using a standard easily replaceable md8 mini din cable. That's my reason for going with a jack instead of a plug.


----------



## Mapletech

Okey Dokey. I'm using Linear - though I haven't measured it, it sounds 'correct'. And the ones in the actual remote are linear.
Good idea regarding the 8-pin arrangement - I guess you have a source for a cable?


----------



## jdigital

Forgot to post up a pic, here's my remote. It's working perfectly. arty2:


----------



## Mapletech

Looks good!


----------



## narvarr

I like!


----------



## backousis

i tried to build one of these but it didn,t work.
i tried 50k log and nothing.
i tried 5k linear and nothing.
i will buy a 10k linear tomorrow but i don,t think it,s the problem.
it should adjust even not perfect.
maybe i need to do a setup form the software?


----------



## LiQuiDz

backousis said:


> i tried to build one of these but it didn,t work.
> i tried 50k log and nothing.
> i tried 5k linear and nothing.
> i will buy a 10k linear tomorrow but i don,t think it,s the problem.
> it should adjust even not perfect.
> maybe i need to do a setup form the software?


click "Device configuration"

and there you have 2 check box

[x] master volume
[x] sub woofer volume


----------



## backousis

LiQuiDz said:


> click "Device configuration"
> 
> and there you have 2 check box
> 
> [x] master volume
> [x] sub woofer volume


thanks i will check it.


----------



## backousis

yeap it worked


----------



## jbeez

Just made my din cable and soldered some leads to my potentiometer. I just have one pot for now for sub, i dont really need the others and may never, but I still soldered all the required pins in the 8pin din connector....

thought a cat5 cable might work well 










https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rX9c-TtJaYA/VXH9moYY8II/AAAAAAAAE2s/Fo8RH9j8BmE/w576-h768-no/15%2B-%2B1










https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p-T5h8Aoq2A/VXH9i3J4qNI/AAAAAAAAE2E/F6ojJBJMhSs/w576-h768-no/15%2B-%2B1

I used butt connectors for now but i might switch to bullets. I was going to use spade terminals but they don't fit through the nut and lockwasher for that POT, and its a top mount, so the wiring would need to fit through where I mount it. Its super tiny though!


----------



## Bmxnick101

Does this work with DSP pro? I figure they've changed it by now.


----------



## Timelessr1

This is the next thing I have to build  a couple of the last posts here are using the mini din plug and it should work with the DSP pro.


----------



## bradknob

Timelessr1 said:


> This is the next thing I have to build  a couple of the last posts here are using the mini din plug and it should work with the DSP pro.



You ever give this a shot? How'd it work out. Gonna try this with my Pro. Thinking of taking apart my URC-2a and making it less ugly


----------



## Timelessr1

bradknob said:


> You ever give this a shot? How'd it work out. Gonna try this with my Pro. Thinking of taking apart my URC-2a and making it less ugly



I haven't yet... I'm still using my URC also. I'd consider taking mine apart too but I'd like to really have a metal knob that sticks out a little more rather then a thumb wheel


----------



## bradknob

Cool, thanks for the response. I'm with you on the knobs, I got some aluminum ones Ima try. Let you all know how it turns out.


----------



## Xiin90

Hey ! Thanks for all the info iv got so far. But i still have one problem with soldering the connector. Its round 8 pin mini-din, abd looks like this = 

i.imgur.com/jQOh4Tt.jpg

Buy how should i solder one wire into shell (for ground)? Tin doesnt stay on that coated shell...


----------



## sbutz

I ordered a Director... Any idea if I can have a potentiometer within arms reach for system volume control and put the director say in my sun glasses holder and just use it for input changes?


----------



## dkenned1

I wanted to say thank you to this group for all of the good information about this unit, and to give an update.

I have the Helix DSP Pro, and the information is accurate for the pinout as of this posting.

I'm using a digital potentiometer to control the Helix, and in my findings, 10k just isn't enough. Even at 0 which reads about 9.5k on the multimeter, signal is still passed over the RCA from low to high. In order to get the volume to totally stop I had to have a resistance of 55.7k.

In my findings, the basic steps are 55k, 53k, 37k, 25k and then every ~407 ohms from 25k up to 300 ohms has a noted increase in volume. My source unit only has 64 steps so its possible the increments are even smaller than 407 per step but thats roughly 1db when measured with my SPL meter. 

If you use an analog potentiometer this might not be an issue if it goes to a complete circuit disconnect at 0.

I hope this helps someone else. I had to combine a 10k and 50k to get this working.

It would be MIGHTY helpful if anyone knows the DIGITAL control and not the analog one. I cant believe the Director unit is using the analog like the small remote does.


----------



## Salami

Installing my DSP Pro today. 

What type of connector do I need to connect to the processor? 

Also what type of switch do I use if I want to be able to toggle between the two presets? I am assuming a toggle switch would not work, correct?


----------



## Babs

Salami said:


> Installing my DSP Pro today.
> 
> What type of connector do I need to connect to the processor?
> 
> Also what type of switch do I use if I want to be able to toggle between the two presets? I am assuming a toggle switch would not work, correct?


Looks like an 8-pin mini din connector such as this recepticle I saw on pg1 that looks like the port on the DSP:









Maybe something like this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI/MD-80/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtAYTMy7wxAr38XxmkflkdN0SZhPELO3hBI5rnf1nHYLQ%3d%3d


----------



## Salami

Thanks Scott.



I'm looking to use an Alps Blue Velvet like Erin had in his car for volume control. I believe I need a 10k linear. Would this be the correct type? 

ALPS RK27112 Potentiometer 10K ohm linear B taper pot RK27112A005N RK27 10KBx2 | eBay


----------



## Salami

Mapletech said:


> Here's my version, with just a bit more info since I took my URC apart.
> The bi-colour LED is only necessary if you're using a pushbutton switch that doesn't give any indication as to which state it's in (ie. in/out), but if you use a toggle or rocker switch then you don't need it (unless you like more lights!)
> 
> I found the connector at Newark Electronics, their part # 97K5346. $3 - so buy a couple - the pins are tiny and the ABS can melt if you don't solder quickly.


Can someone give me some guidance on this please? 

I want to control volume only and be able to switch between the 2 presets on the DSP Pro.

I'll have an Alps pot in my possession tomorrow. I need to order a switch. If I am reading this correctly I need a DPDT switch, correct? Does it need to be a rocker/toggle type switch or can it me a momentary switch? I am having trouble finding a DPDT switch that is small enough and does not looks like ass. SPDT switches seem to be super easy to find and look nice, DPDT not so much. 

It shouldn't matter if there is no second pot, correct? 

I would like to have the parts I need ordered by Monday so I can have them by the end of the week and get this built and functional. 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## 01LSi

Any reason you can't use a joycon to do this for steering wheel controls? Does it have to be a dial that has physical 0 - 100 rotational limits or can it be used for a jog dial that rotates infinitely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tzPK9VomSc


----------



## Erick_Markland

awesome work


----------



## rob feature

Neat idea. I think I may try this. Thanks for all the posts!


----------



## jazzpassine

Salami said:


> Thanks Scott.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to use an Alps Blue Velvet like Erin had in his car for volume control. I believe I need a 10k linear. Would this be the correct type?
> 
> ALPS RK27112 Potentiometer 10K ohm linear B taper pot RK27112A005N RK27 10KBx2 | eBay



Hey! I'm about to build one of these so I will put together a parts list and build log to share with everyone. 

To resurrect your question... I would not buy that pot. Briefly glancing over the schematic it looks like you only need a single gang pot (unless you are going push pull). I also think that is way overpriced. I'd probably go with something like this. Alpha makes good pots.

Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper - Small Bear Electronics


I build guitar pedals as a hobby. Mouser is a great place to find parts but for small builds like this, sometimes a supplier like smallbear is a better route.


----------



## hackn3y

I just built one of these for my DSP.2 and I was wondering if anyone had tried using two 20k pots instead of the 10k. I tested it at first with just a single 10k pot, which worked fine, but I didn't pay close attention to the volume range. Following the schematic, the two pots are in parallel so it cuts the resistance in half giving a range between 0 - ~5k. I didn't know if you would get more volume steps using two 20k pots instead. I think I have some, so I will probably give it a try. I'm going to make an enclosure with my 3D printer and I will post my build when it is completed.


----------



## hackn3y

I just finished my build, it cost me around $30, but some of the parts could have been gotten for cheaper. It seems to be working fine with the 10k pots, so I will just be using those. Here are the files for my 3D printed enclosure: Helix DSP.2 DIY Remote Enclosure.


----------



## MX145

^^^

Nice job! Our 3D printer has been a great tool for things like this... Once we got it to work consistently Your layers look consistent.


----------



## Twonks

Looks like Helix themselves have seen this, as their URC.3 looks rather similar.

I have one and like the simplicity over the Director (which I also have) but, the knobs are just too damn small a diameter on the HRC.3.

Despite being a nice solid feel and metal, it is just too fiddly to use. I'm now going to take it apart and see if I can piggy back onto the connections for one of the pots and make my own with a larger better placed seperate volume 'knob', then hide the rest of the URC for switching duties.

Failing that, I'll mate into the RJ connector on the back and make my own complete unit.


----------



## hackn3y

Twonks said:


> Looks like Helix themselves have seen this, as their URC.3 looks rather similar.
> 
> I have one and like the simplicity over the Director (which I also have) but, the knobs are just too damn small a diameter on the HRC.3.
> 
> Despite being a nice solid feel and metal, it is just too fiddly to use. I'm now going to take it apart and see if I can piggy back onto the connections for one of the pots and make my own with a larger better placed seperate volume 'knob', then hide the rest of the URC for switching duties.
> 
> Failing that, I'll mate into the RJ connector on the back and make my own complete unit.


I based my design on the URC.3, I ordered similar knobs to it as well, but ultimately decided on the larger knobs. Depending on the length of the pots in the URC.3, you may be able to just replace the knob, but a larger one might cover the switch. I imagine you can add your own pot to it, but just be aware that it will change the resistance if you don't bypass the original.


----------



## sophia

Hello


Here's the schematic (from Audiotec-Fischer) useful for makin your own remote controller compatible with the DSP's from Helix


_____________________________


----------



## rob feature

Anybody know which resistor value for the LED ground is correct here? The parts list uses a value of 120 ohms while the schematic reads 220 ohms. 

TIA!


----------



## Salami

rob feature said:


> Anybody know which resistor value for the LED ground is correct here? The parts list uses a value of 120 ohms while the schematic reads 220 ohms.
> 
> TIA!


I don't know which is correct. I never noticed there were different values listed so I used the 220 ohm from the schematic. FWIW I have been using the 220 ohm with no issues since last March.


----------



## rob feature

Salami said:


> I don't know which is correct. I never noticed there were different values listed so I used the 220 ohm from the schematic. FWIW I have been using the 220 ohm with no issues since last March.


Thanks for that Salami - 220 it is :thumbsup:


----------



## stixzerjan

Hi guys, is there a possibility to build the remote for Zapco Dsp-z8 too? I just installed mine and want to utilize the optical input. Thanks.

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk


----------



## flgfish

rob feature said:


> Thanks for that Salami - 220 it is :thumbsup:


It's a current limiting resistor in this circuit. Use the 220.


----------



## flgfish

Doin' a little thread necromancy, since this helped me. Only wanted a sub nob & the ability to swap between profiles. 3D printer & Fry's, here I come! Here's my first partial print to check fitment. I'm printing the final box, box top and pot knob now.


----------



## Bnlcmbcar

Does anyone have info on this Helix DSP Controller?

https://youtu.be/pD5t5Q6LC3g


----------



## flgfish

Bnlcmbcar said:


> Does anyone have info on this Helix DSP Controller?
> 
> https://youtu.be/pD5t5Q6LC3g


It looks like it's got the same functionality as what we're building, but he has an aurduino driving a screen, and probably using some GPIO's to control the outputs through whatever circuits he's devised to hook up to the two control inputs (that measure voltage level) and the high/low input pin (for the preset select).


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Bringing this back to life as I am making my own remote.

For the ground, do you just connect it to the metal shell of the DIN connector as you would with an RCA?


----------



## SkizeR

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Bringing this back to life as I am making my own remote.
> 
> For the ground, do you just connect it to the metal shell of the DIN connector as you would with an RCA?


honestly, just buy a URC.3. This thread is from when the ****ty URC and absurdly shaped URC.2 were out and those failed all the time. Problem is, these homemade remotes have the same issues as the URC.2. A local buddy who got schematics from this thread has gone through maybe 4 or 5 of these, and they cost him time, plus cost of parts. Meanwhile you can buy a URC.3 for like, 35 bucks.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

SkizeR said:


> honestly, just buy a URC.3. This thread is from when the ****ty URC and absurdly shaped URC.2 were out and those failed all the time. Problem is, these homemade remotes have the same issues as the URC.2. A local buddy who got schematics from this thread has gone through maybe 4 or 5 of these, and they cost him time, plus cost of parts. Meanwhile you can buy a URC.3 for like, 35 bucks.


Where do you get a URC3 for $35? Unfortunately I've already bought the parts and started soldering since I thought a URC.3 was like $60-70.


----------



## SkizeR

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Where do you get a URC3 for $35? Unfortunately I've already bought the parts and started soldering since I thought a URC.3 was like $60-70.


TBH, i actually dont know the price off hand. I include them for free when i install a Helix DSP. I know they arent more than 50


----------



## SlvrDragon50

SkizeR said:


> TBH, i actually dont know the price off hand. I include them for free when i install a Helix DSP. I know they arent more than 50


Cheapest I see them are for $70 from eBay from Austria. Can't find it anywhere in the US. I guess maybe if I call some dealers.


----------



## SkizeR

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Cheapest I see them are for $70 from eBay from Austria. Can't find it anywhere in the US. I guess maybe if I call some dealers.


Yeah, helix isnt sold online. Gotta contact a dealer. 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## SlvrDragon50

SkizeR said:


> Yeah, helix isnt sold online. Gotta contact a dealer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Dang, yea I live in the middle of nowhere. Will have to see if I can find someone to ship. 

I still want to try and build this remote though since I've spent way more than I intended to this month. Plus, I have all the parts already so they're going to waste otherwise.


----------



## SiW80

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Dang, yea I live in the middle of nowhere. Will have to see if I can find someone to ship.
> 
> 
> 
> I still want to try and build this remote though since I've spent way more than I intended to this month. Plus, I have all the parts already so they're going to waste otherwise.




Let us know how you get on. 

I have the parts and finally got a cable yesterday so ready to go 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flgfish

Yes ground to shield. 
I made my own. It’s easy. No need to buy one. Mine is customized with only a sub knob- didn’t want the other stuff.


----------



## SkizeR

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Dang, yea I live in the middle of nowhere. Will have to see if I can find someone to ship.
> 
> 
> 
> I still want to try and build this remote though since I've spent way more than I intended to this month. Plus, I have all the parts already so they're going to waste otherwise.


I am actually the only dealer authorized to ship

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## mitesh.soni

dkenned1 said:


> I wanted to say thank you to this group for all of the good information about this unit, and to give an update.
> 
> I have the Helix DSP Pro, and the information is accurate for the pinout as of this posting.
> 
> I'm using a digital potentiometer to control the Helix, and in my findings, 10k just isn't enough. Even at 0 which reads about 9.5k on the multimeter, signal is still passed over the RCA from low to high. In order to get the volume to totally stop I had to have a resistance of 55.7k.
> 
> In my findings, the basic steps are 55k, 53k, 37k, 25k and then every ~407 ohms from 25k up to 300 ohms has a noted increase in volume. My source unit only has 64 steps so its possible the increments are even smaller than 407 per step but thats roughly 1db when measured with my SPL meter.
> 
> If you use an analog potentiometer this might not be an issue if it goes to a complete circuit disconnect at 0.
> 
> I hope this helps someone else. I had to combine a 10k and 50k to get this working.
> 
> It would be MIGHTY helpful if anyone knows the DIGITAL control and not the analog one. I cant believe the Director unit is using the analog like the small remote does.


Just after some help, I too have the DSP Pro. I want to use a digital potentiometer too, I'm just trying to understand how you made yours work. Would you be able to explain what I need to do? Thanks


----------



## naujokas

I ordered such a control panel for Helix DSP.3 for $ 50 (without shipping) :








Media Control v4 (Управлятор 4.0) часть 0 — DRIVE2


Блог пользователя multimake на DRIVE2. С этой записи начинаются статьи и обновления материалов по новой версии управлятора. На данный момент разработка железа (схема-плата) завершена. Теперь необходимо его произвести (надеюсь братья Китайцы осилят это дело), написать прошивку, написать софт под...




www.drive2.ru












Media Control v4 (Управлятор 4.0) часть 2, заработало! — DRIVE2


Блог пользователя multimake на DRIVE2. Для тех, кто не в курсе что это: часть 0 www.drive2.ru/b/564754802832048197/ часть 1 www.drive2.ru/b/567123150878278321/ Итак, как стало понятно из заголовка — оно ожило! Что изменилось с моего предыдущего поста: 1) Я успел съездить в отпуск с семьей...




www.drive2.ru




This panel can: 
1. Control the processor from the steering wheel switches (resistive) with emulation of resistive buttons on the output 0 - 60 kOhm
2. Can control the processor from any infrared console 
3. An additional volume level display can be connected 
4. An additional volume control encoder can be connected 
5. A program is made to control from the steering wheel switches via CAN

i am waiting for the order to come and will write when I connect


----------



## Sam Spade

Bmxnick101 said:


> Does this work with DSP pro? I figure they've changed it by now.


Ive got an ultra and a urc.3 that switches between sources and has master and sub volume so check if theres a later URC that works with the pro. There's the director too but that's newer


----------



## Sam Spade

sbutz said:


> I ordered a Director... Any idea if I can have a potentiometer within arms reach for system volume control and put the director say in my sun glasses holder and just use it for input changes?


My URC.3 has 2 volume controls and a push button its old school but really discrete and small and awesome. But i dont know if you can plug it in with a director. And i have an ultra you'd have to check if there's a URC that suits your DSP.


----------



## Sam Spade

Twonks said:


> Looks like Helix themselves have seen this, as their URC.3 looks rather similar.
> 
> I have one and like the simplicity over the Director (which I also have) but, the knobs are just too damn small a diameter on the HRC.3.
> 
> Despite being a nice solid feel and metal, it is just too fiddly to use. I'm now going to take it apart and see if I can piggy back onto the connections for one of the pots and make my own with a larger better placed seperate volume 'knob', then hide the rest of the URC for switching duties.
> 
> Failing that, I'll mate into the RJ connector on the back and make my own complete unit.


Thats interesting my URC.3 is just under my left hand edge of my steering wheel (Australia right hand drive) and it took me half a day to get used to it and its awesome.


----------



## mitesh.soni

naujokas said:


> I ordered such a control panel for Helix DSP.3 for $ 50 (without shipping) :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Media Control v4 (Управлятор 4.0) часть 0 — DRIVE2
> 
> 
> Блог пользователя multimake на DRIVE2. С этой записи начинаются статьи и обновления материалов по новой версии управлятора. На данный момент разработка железа (схема-плата) завершена. Теперь необходимо его произвести (надеюсь братья Китайцы осилят это дело), написать прошивку, написать софт под...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.drive2.ru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Media Control v4 (Управлятор 4.0) часть 2, заработало! — DRIVE2
> 
> 
> Блог пользователя multimake на DRIVE2. Для тех, кто не в курсе что это: часть 0 www.drive2.ru/b/564754802832048197/ часть 1 www.drive2.ru/b/567123150878278321/ Итак, как стало понятно из заголовка — оно ожило! Что изменилось с моего предыдущего поста: 1) Я успел съездить в отпуск с семьей...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.drive2.ru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This panel can:
> 1. Control the processor from the steering wheel switches (resistive) with emulation of resistive buttons on the output 0 - 60 kOhm
> 2. Can control the processor from any infrared console
> 3. An additional volume level display can be connected
> 4. An additional volume control encoder can be connected
> 5. A program is made to control from the steering wheel switches via CAN
> 
> i am waiting for the order to come and will write when I connect


I have the Helix DSP Pro MK2.

This Interface sounds like exactly what I’m after. As I want to control the Volume from Steering Wheel buttons.

I do have URC.2a (same functionality as URC.3) however that’s mounted in my Dash, but I’d like to also control the Volume from my Steering.

I have the JoyCon Steering Wheel adapter which converts the Steering Wheel Control signal to Resistive which I believe will work on the Adapter you’ve mentioned.

Do let us know how you get on with yours.


----------



## mitesh.soni

Following on from the discussion about controlling the Helix Volume from the Steering buttons on my BMW E46, I've manage to get it working with a simple part: *Analog Devices AD5228 Digital Potentiometer - 10k ohm with 32 Steps *

It works the same as Mechanical Potentiometer does as discussed on this thread, however with push UP & DOWN buttons. The volume resets to Zero when the Helix DSP turns on next time, you can buy Digital Potentiometers with memory which stores your last volume level, however you will have bit of shock when you next turn your car on if you left the volume high before turning off your car. 

Happy to help if someone needs a diagram on how to connect it to the Helix DSP. The subwoofer level is controlled using a standard dash 10k Mechanical Potentiometer found in the URC.2a 

I don't need a Source Select DPDT Switch as I only have one device connected to the Helix DSP:
iPad Mini ---> Apple CCK3---> Topping D10s via Coaxial ---> Helix DSP Pro MK2


----------



## SiW80

mitesh.soni said:


> Following on from the discussion about controlling the Helix Volume from the Steering buttons on my BMW E46, I've manage to get it working with a simple part: *Analog Devices AD5228 Digital Potentiometer - 10k ohm with 32 Steps *
> 
> It works the same as Mechanical Potentiometer does as discussed on this thread, however with push UP & DOWN buttons. The volume resets to Zero when the Helix DSP turns on next time, you can buy Digital Potentiometers with memory which stores your last volume level, however you will have bit of shock when you next turn your car on if you left the volume high before turning off your car.
> 
> Happy to help if someone needs a diagram on how to connect it to the Helix DSP. The subwoofer level is controlled using a standard dash 10k Mechanical Potentiometer found in the URC.2a
> 
> I don't need a Source Select DPDT Switch as I only have one device connected to the Helix DSP:
> iPad Mini ---> Apple CCK3---> Topping D10s via Coaxial ---> Helix DSP Pro MK2


A wiring guide would be great 

This sounds perfect for some discrete push switches. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mitesh.soni

SiW80 said:


> A wiring guide would be great
> 
> This sounds perfect for some discrete push switches.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No worries, I'll draw the diagram up. Yes that is also a good idea having some discrete push switches possibly in the dash. I'm trying to also figure out how to have rotary digital volume knob which works with the Digital Potentiometer. Not sure what you'd call that, that way I can mount that next the iPad in the dash.


----------



## naujokas

finally the parcel has arrived, we will try to turn on all the features


----------



## MajorNoob

naujokas said:


> finally the parcel has arrived, we will try to turn on all the features


Hello naujokas, what's your opinion on the device?


----------



## naujokas

MajorNoob said:


> Hello naujokas, what's your opinion on the device?


hello, I haven't connected yet, I still don't have an audio source with optics


----------



## MajorNoob

Did the seller take a long time to reply to your emails? I contacted them at [email protected] but got no reply.


----------



## naujokas

MajorNoob said:


> Did the seller take a long time to reply to your emails? I contacted them at [email protected] but got no reply.


Hi, try writing to the author in person *<[email protected]> *


----------



## MajorNoob

Thanks a bunch, I'l try it out!


----------



## naujokas

I joined Mediacontrol, now I control Helix sound and subwoofer level from the steering wheel buttons and Alpine 😁 remote control. Each time the Mediacontrol is switched on, it sets the programmed set level.
I temporarily joined like this : there IR receiver, display and 2-level encoder


----------



## MajorNoob

naujokas, thanks for the email address, I would never have been able to order the device otherwise!
Glad to hear your Mediacontrol works OK!


----------



## matt81

I also purchased this media controller from the Russian who built and designed this. I wired it up and installed the software provided. I just havent had the time to install it, but now I'm more excited to see that its working, based on your post. Now, i just some time to install it.


----------



## DriverDaily

I thought linear potentiometers were correct, not audio / logarithmic potentiometers?

Using a Helix P Six MK2 I have a strange problem with the 10K ohm linear potentiometers. All of the volume control is in the first few degrees of rotation.

*Edit:* I had my signal wire swapped with my 3.3v wire. With the signal wire in the middle the knob works just fine.


----------



## matt81

DriverDaily said:


> I thought linear potentiometers were correct, not audio / logarithmic potentiometers?
> 
> Using a Helix P Six MK2 I have a strange problem with the 10K ohm linear potentiometers. All of the volume control is in the first few degrees of rotation.


you might want to message the creator of this project. he's really good about responding and helping to any issues. i had a wiring question with my vehicle and he was quick to respond.


----------



## naujokas

DriverDaily said:


> I thought linear potentiometers were correct, not audio / logarithmic potentiometers?
> 
> Using a Helix P Six MK2 I have a strange problem with the 10K ohm linear potentiometers. All of the volume control is in the first few degrees of rotation.


Hi, I saw that connected 50K potentiometers instead of 10K


----------



## matt81

naujokas said:


> Hi, I saw that connected 50K potentiometers instead of 10K


What difference does 50k compared to 10k potentiometers do? I have mine connected to a HELIX ULTRA and I'm not having any issues, adjusting the bass knob or controlling the volume from my steering Wheel. I Have a 2018 Lexus NX


----------



## DriverDaily

matt81 said:


> What difference does 50k compared to 10k potentiometers do? I have mine connected to a HELIX ULTRA and I'm not having any issues, adjusting the bass knob or controlling the volume from my steering Wheel. I Have a 2018 Lexus NX


So, basically this guy found that absolute 0 volume doesn't occur until 55.7K ohms, on his unit anyways.



dkenned1 said:


> I wanted to say thank you to this group for all of the good information about this unit, and to give an update.
> 
> I have the Helix DSP Pro, and the information is accurate for the pinout as of this posting.
> 
> I'm using a digital potentiometer to control the Helix, and in my findings, 10k just isn't enough. Even at 0 which reads about 9.5k on the multimeter, signal is still passed over the RCA from low to high. In order to get the volume to totally stop I had to have a resistance of 55.7k.
> 
> *In my findings, the basic steps are 55k, 53k, 37k, 25k and then every ~407 ohms from 25k up to 300 ohms has a noted increase in volume. My source unit only has 64 steps so its possible the increments are even smaller than 407 per step but thats roughly 1db when measured with my SPL meter.*
> 
> If you use an analog potentiometer this might not be an issue if it goes to a complete circuit disconnect at 0.
> 
> I hope this helps someone else. I had to combine a 10k and 50k to get this working.
> 
> It would be MIGHTY helpful if anyone knows the DIGITAL control and not the analog one. I cant believe the Director unit is using the analog like the small remote does.


----------

