# 1997 Toyota 4Runner - Restore and Install



## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Just getting my place holder in. My last build was an 06 Tundra: Tundra build log

Getting ready to start a build on a 97 4Runner limited 4x4 that I bought recently with 187,000 miles on it. It is beat up pretty bad on the inside but the mechanical side is in really good shape. 

I'm replacing carpet, wood trim, seats/covers, center console, etc. when done, it should look almost like new on the inside. And hopefully the wet dog smell goes away. LOL. Prior owner drug his dog around in this thing all the time. Dog ate holes in seats and ate the transfer case shift knob. That's all getting replaced though. 

I'll get this into my air conditioned garage in a few weeks and start tearing everything out. On hand, I have 72 sq ft of stinger sound deadner, 6 yards of self stick ensolite, new molded carpet set with heavy mass backing rubber, console from a 99 that adds cup holders, new rear seats from a 99, new pieces to fix broken items, etc. 

Also have a pioneer deh-80prs headunit and a pioneer ts-c720prs speaker set on hand and a jl audio xd750/5 amp in route. I'd love to track down a like new jbl gto1002d/1004d sub.

Pictures:

Current interior Condition


































Exterior after taking the running boards off










Engine upper end looked pretty clean when replacing seals


















Some of the parts going into interior restore/build


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Found one more picture of how bad the interior is











Finally getting started on the interior this week. Got the garage cleaned out and the 4runner backed in and ready to get stripped out. Best part is garage has AC so no sweating it out in the summer sun like my last build. 





















Also received my new wood kit to replace all the faded and delaminated wood dash trim










More pictures to follow as I go.


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## vwdave (Jun 12, 2013)

looks like a nice project. keep the work and pictures coming.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

wow cool project. not often we see this kind of thing.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks guys. 

Forgot to mention I sourced a new unused viper alarm kit from here on the forum so ill be able to get keyless entry on this truck along with some basic alarm functions. 

Also got the refurbished JL Audio 700/5 in and I can't tell it's not new other than the sticker on the box. Looks like a brand new one off the shelf so I'm assuming it will work as new also. We will see.



While not audio related, ill still include it......... For the exterior..... On order is a suspension/lift kit and a plate steel rear bumper with tire carrier. Lift from Sonoran Steel and bumper from CBI Off Road Fab.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

that engine has almost 200k miles on it? Damn! must be run synthetic oil all it`s life. 
people just don`t let them runners die, they restored multiple times before run to the ground. My neighbors has 1984 with solid axels, all original he says still running strong.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

The truck barely averaged 10k miles per year. Biggest problem other than the dog is simply age. Once the items in need are repaired or replaced it should easily last another 15 years. There's a ton of these trucks with 400k to 500k miles and counting. 

The rate I'm driving it now its only going to see 1 to 2 thousand miles per year so it should stay in good shape I hope.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

I bought mine feb2 of 2012 so far 11300miles on it. Working from home saving a lot of gas and truck itself. Ill keep it foreever, at least thats a plan. One of very few real offroad vehicles left on the market. That thing can go everywhere with minimal modifications. I pulled out half a dosen jeeps last season.
Your 3rd generation is about as perfect as offroad trucks goes. Enjoy it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Victor_inox said:


> I bought mine feb2 of 2012 so far 11300miles on it. Working from home saving a lot of gas and truck itself. Ill keep it foreever, at least thats a plan. One of very few real offroad vehicles left on the market. That thing can go everywhere with minimal modifications. I pulled out half a dosen jeeps last season.
> Your 3rd generation is about as perfect as offroad trucks goes. Enjoy it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2



Thanks. I can't wait to get the suspension and rear bumper, but also can't wait to order sliders and front bumper and winch. After everything else ill put some black rims and 33" tires on it. Last item might be a roof rack but we will see.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

txbonds said:


> Thanks. I can't wait to get the suspension and rear bumper, but also can't wait to order sliders and front bumper and winch. After everything else ill put some black rims and 33" tires on it. Last item might be a roof rack but we will see.


cool, don`t forget to update this tread when you do.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: 1997 Toyota 4Runner - Restore and Install - 56k beware*

Okay, made some progress tonight. Got the carpet all removed, the seats removed, and some of the trim removed. Found lots of interesting things under the carpet including nails, screws and about $4 in change. Lots of dirt and pine straw as well. I'll just post some pictures and let them tell the story. Used the real camera finally and not just the phone camera, so hopefully they look a little better.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*Re: 1997 Toyota 4Runner - Restore and Install - 56k beware*





































Gross


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Old carpet and padding in trash









Misc junk I found in car under everything. Gross.


















New items to go back in










Speaker locations




























Just for kicks


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## Derekj (Aug 11, 2011)

It's pretty gross what you find under seats and carpets of older vehicles. 

I like your garage - pretty cool. No pun intended. Keep the pics coming!


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## jvctan16 (Jun 11, 2013)

txbonds said:


> Also received my new wood kit to replace all the faded and delaminated wood dash trim


is that a template for the wood trim?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

jvctan16 said:


> is that a template for the wood trim?


No, it's actual trim shrink wrapped on a piece of cardboard. It's really plastic that looks like wood. The 4runner originally comes with some plastic wood trim like the AC radio bezel. Someone added a real wood kit to match and over the years the clear coat turned yellow and started to delaminate. 

I just have to remove the old wood trim pieces and replace with these and they will match the original toyota pieces.

Got it from a place called burtman industries. Guys name is Jason burtman. Took about a month or more for them to get it to me but looks good now that its here.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Derekj said:


> It's pretty gross what you find under seats and carpets of older vehicles.
> 
> I like your garage - pretty cool. No pun intended. Keep the pics coming!


Thanks man. Garage was a 2+ year project. I normally have other stuff stored in here but really love it when it's cleaned out for a project like this.


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## jvctan16 (Jun 11, 2013)

txbonds said:


> No, it's actual trim shrink wrapped on a piece of cardboard. It's really plastic that looks like wood. The 4runner originally comes with some plastic wood trim like the AC radio bezel. Someone added a real wood kit to match and over the years the clear coat turned yellow and started to delaminate.
> 
> I just have to remove the old wood trim pieces and replace with these and they will match the original toyota pieces.
> 
> Got it from a place called burtman industries. Guys name is Jason burtman. Took about a month or more for them to get it to me but looks good now that its here.


That makes sense. It is easier to install and lighter compared to using actual wood trim.


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## cjazzy4 (Mar 29, 2012)

awesome restore and install


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Going to get in there with some PineSol or Mr Clean or something and clean the floors before you put the carpet back in? At least some simple green? I like these trucks, but most of the ones I see are close to the condition of yours, no one restores them around here. Too bad, too, they're pretty sweet.

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> Going to get in there with some PineSol or Mr Clean or something and clean the floors before you put the carpet back in? At least some simple green? I like these trucks, but most of the ones I see are close to the condition of yours, no one restores them around here. Too bad, too, they're pretty sweet.
> 
> Jay




Something. Was thinking rubbing alcohol to remove residue and clean since I'm putting deadner down.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Anyone know how hard a viper alarm system install would be on this vehicle? Trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself or not. Bought it from an individual so I'm assuming it wouldn't qualify for warranty, but don't know.


EDIT: Never mind. Will be doing myself after getting $300 to $400 install quote today. Yikes.

However while out I picked up a couple of items


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

Where did you source the new carpet? Looks like a good start.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

goodstuff said:


> Where did you source the new carpet? Looks like a good start.


Auto Interior and Upholstery--Leather Seat Covers and Molded Carpets

I ordered it with the extra heavy mass backing option so it has thick rubber molded to back for extra sound and temp isolation. It's not a perfect oem match but it blends pretty well. Mucho cheaper than full oem replacement though.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Anyone know how hard a viper alarm system install would be on this vehicle? Trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself or not. Bought it from an individual so I'm assuming it wouldn't qualify for warranty, but don't know.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Never mind. Will be doing myself after getting $300 to $400 install quote today. Yikes.
> ...


$300-400 to install an alarm?!? Jeezez. We would do an alarm remote start installed for like $229. That includes the alarm. What model do you have?

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> $300-400 to install an alarm?!? Jeezez. We would do an alarm remote start installed for like $229. That includes the alarm. What model do you have?
> 
> Jay


Model 3203 I think. Like this one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_30166_Viper-3203-Responder-LE-3203V.html



Another update: I went ahead and ordered a set of sliders for the 4runner. I went with Stubbs Welding HD-SKO model sliders. I'll have to paint or powder coat them but they look like a great product, especially for their price. Now just need to decide on front bumper, winch and wheels/tires for exterior.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not much new over the past 2 days other than I removed more trim and vacuumed the floor and interior pretty well. Still have more trim to remove to get the headliner down and the door skins off, but am making headway slowly. Once I finish getting the trim off (except the dash), I will vacuum one more time really well and then wet clean with rags and rubbing alcohol to get it good and clean. May also use some warm water as well.

Before putting trim back in, I plan to wet clean all of it inside and out using rubbing alcohol as well as some warm water and a magic sponge.

Basically, want it to look as new as possible when it goes back in so that in another 16 years, someone else can start over on another rebuild, but I'll have felt like I started with a new car. 


Now onto some more pictures:

Foil tape to cover edges of deadener to help prevent possibility of running in summer sun









Drivers side rear quarter panels removed

















Passenger side rear quarter panel removed

















Some of the filth cleaned up and factory deadener









Some cleaning done, but can't get to everything with just vacuum. Need some brushes and need to get rest of center console out











Hopefully these pictures and build log help the next person that is curious about redoing the inside/outside of an older 3rd generation 4runner. They are pretty cool, capable vehicles and can be found really affordably all over the place. Most of the ones this age seem to stay on the road until someone has an accident, which tells me they keep going and going and going like the energizer bunny if you take care of them.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Model 3203 I think. Like this one: Viper 3203 2-Way Paging Vehicle Security Car Alarm w/ Keyless Entry


Decided I didn't want to mess with self install on the alarm. I have enough going on with the general restore and audio project. For the install price, I was able to just have them put in a new model from their stock so it has full warranties and stuff. Just put the 3203 on the forum for a good price. It would be a good deal for someone that can tackle the install. Also the new one doesn't appear to add anything this one didn't have, just cost the same to buy and install as this one to just install. Crazy.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another update of something in the works to include this
http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Few more pictures from today. Not too much done.

Lots of deadener. I know the current belief is that you don't need 100% coverage, but I'll tell you I can hear a resonance difference on this panel as I added more layers and as I overlapped those layers. Works best as small overlapping sheets in my opinion.









I like to put foil tape over the seams on any area that might come into contact with carpet or interior pieces. Just helps to keep the messy butyl from getting on things. In this case, I covered the seams in the opening area where my sub box will be sitting. In other cases I'll cover them under carpet areas.









Next I covered the deadener with a layer of self stick ensolite (closed cell foam) Feels a bit like neoprene. On my last build, which has been some time ago, this approach works well even though I'm sure there is new technology in use these days.









Lastly, all I have done so far today is inside this rear compartment in the anticipation of getting ready for the sub box. I am going to order/buy some larger foam material to stuff into some of these open areas to limit sound and air flow a bit and to replace the old factory foam that is inside some of these areas. 












It's surprising just how much time these processes take. Each time I do a section like this I look at it when I'm done and think "I should just stop now, it's not worth the hassle, but I know the finished product will show it's worth the effort. In this case, deadener, combined with closed cell foam layer, a heavy rubber layer and then carpet should help quite a bit with road noise.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Ceiling deadening done

Headliner removed. Spent an hour with acetone getting the blue stock blue padding removed.









One layer of deadener with a few pieces overlapped on each panel. All seams taped with foil tape.









Two layers of ensolite closed cell foam overlapped.









If there is room, I'm thinking another layer of "something" but not sure what other product makes sense. I've seen people use carpet padding here, and I have a few yards of that, but not sure if it really adds anything.


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## ZombieHunter85 (Oct 30, 2012)

Keep up the good work it is coming to life!


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## jvctan16 (Jun 11, 2013)

amazing work on the ceiling deadening. I usually get a stiff neck after doing the ceiling.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Update pics


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Couple more progress pics



















They are done doing design stuff so when I pick it up next time it should be complete. Whole thing is made from birch. It's all cut on CNC computer controlled router. Will be coated inside and out with fiberglass resin to protect from moisture and water. Will be painted black on outside even though its hidden behind panel for most part. 

On outside of trim will be a simple trim ring with mesh grill and cloth overlap to blend in with rear trim panel. 

This shallow 10" JL will be wired parallel for a 2ohm load and will get approx 300 watts from the JL 700/5 amp. 

Total sealed volume is right over 0.5 inside which is just what JL recommends. 

Should turn out nice I think.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

More parts showed up today. Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift kit using toyota parts mostly.


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## Changchung (Aug 15, 2012)

Subscribe...

Very nice job what are you doing... Congrats...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Changchung said:


> Subscribe...
> 
> Very nice job what are you doing... Congrats...




Thanks. 

I remember back in the 80's wanting a 4runner really badly and never could get one. Typical as in life in that now that I can afford to get one, I'm much, much older and a lot less "go out and see the world" carefree. 

That said, now having bought this is making for a fun project and a play vehicle that I'm hopeful will provide lots of memories for my family once its done and we can start using it. Hope my son appreciates it as much as I do......... I'm sure one day he will when he is older anyway.

One thing I don't think I clarified with my earlier posts is that this restore and rebuild is not intended to make everything cosmetically perfect like restoring a classic car. This vehicle is intended to get used and as such I'm working to make everything structurally and mechanically sound, while improving somewhat on the condition. Function is more important to me than pure cosmetics, so I'm not worrying about paint jobs or replacing scratches. Just a few easy fixes like carpet, seat covers and new stick on wood. Hope that makes sense.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Picked up a few things today:

> 4 channel and 2 channel Rockford Fosgate 5m patch cables - They were old new stock still covered with dust, but are twisted pair cables with a nice black mesh central cover on them and small rca plugs for fitting tight spaces. Got as cheap as mail order, but bought local.

> 75' Stinger 12 gauge speaker wire. Plan to use this for all runs with two pulls to each door and one or two to the sub. I know it's not needed for the watts I'm running, but I like having a little overhead.

> Spare 1 in / 1 out 4 gauge fuse block as the JL amps don't have onboard fuses so I'm going to put one inline just before my amp in addition to the battery fuse.

> My JL Audio 10TW3-D4 10" shallow subwoofer - new in box for the sub box I just had built.


The shop is still working on the trim ring grill, but I went by and picked up my semi finished sub box. At this point, it has been fully resin coated inside and out with a small piece of fiberglass inside over the thinnest panel on the rear for added support. It has been painted black on the rear and has black carpet installed on the front. I'm pleased with how it turned out and I got it for a hell of a price even though it amounted to a lot more man hours than I think they thought it would take when they gave me the quote. Not quite as rounded as a full glass enclosure, but will have some added benefit of being made from birch when it comes to mass, resonance, and overall cabinet stability, and because it is almost fully contained inside the trim the material wasn't as important anyway. The resin is still curing at this point.



















The new sub









JL XD700/5 amp out of box finally. Would never know this was a refurbished amp from looking at it. I finally figured out a mounting location that I will be working on tonight and over the weekend. Amp is going on the driver side in the rear quarter panel, sort of like the sub and will be partially recessed. Not so much for stealth as it is to retain cargo space and keep amp at higher level off floor. Didn't want to put under seats in a 4x4 play vehicle in case water ever gets in during a mishap.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Made a little progress on my amp mounting location tonight. space is so tight in these older 4 runners that there are a limited number of places to mount an amp. Unless you are using a micro amp like an arc mini or similar, you are basically limited to under the drivers seat (mine has rear heater under passenger seat) or somewhere in the cargo area. What I typically see is people mount to the back of the seats or to a sub box sitting in the cargo area.

In my case, since I've gone to the effort to get a sub box made to fit inside the rear panel to preserve cargo space, I wanted to do something similar with the amp. The other reason I didn't want to put it under the driver seat is this is a 4x4 and I've had a prior land rover actually get hung up during a river crossing and have water start coming in the doors, which would toast an amp mounted down there.

I chose to go in the rear compartment and on a side. Also chose to go over a wheel well to get it as high as possible. The obvious thought would be directly opposite the sub as there is another pocket inside the panel on the driver side rear, but the problem is there is a pressure vent there that is open to the outside with only a rubber flap to keep water out. I felt like moisture during wet driving might be a problem in that location even though it would have allowed recessing the amp into the wall like the sub.



So, long story short, the amp is where it is and I'm going to make do. Here are the pictures. 



Using plastic lumber so it's water proof and I don't have to mess with resin to make wood water proof.










Cut a large rectangular piece and then hacked away until it would lay flat on the side wall. Then split it so that an existing factory truck wiring harness could still pass through.










This stuff is 1/2" thick, and it comes in 1/4 and 3/4 options as well. I bought it at West Marine, but you can buy it online and ebay. Hard to see it, but I layered ensolite closed cell foam between the marine board and the sheet metal.










There was already a hole in the side quarter panel where a rear cargo cover would go. I don't have a cargo cover and don't plan to get one, so I'm not missing anything by giving this up. 










Working now on test fitting initial hole










Once the hole was large enough for the amp to pass through, I put the panel in place and then put the amp in place. Once centered and leveled, I screwed the amp to the plastic marine board. I used all stainless hardware to bolt the board to the sheet metal and to screw the amp to the board. Should be pretty solid.


























As you can see, my cutting skills are not quite as precise as the shop that built my sub box and cut the woofer opening on the other quarter panel. But hey, I did it myself and I plan to put a trim ring around the amp when I'm all done anyway to dress it up.


















I'm going to pull the amp back down so that I can sound deaden this side, but also so I can wrap the factory wiring in a few layers of electrical tape to give it a little heat insulation from the back of the amp. I'm getting much closer to being ready to start putting deadener down everywhere and to running my wiring. Once I get all of that done, I'll be ready to get the headliner and new carpet back in. My doors are something I can work on after the interior is put back together.


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## Derekj (Aug 11, 2011)

I like the sub box! Oh to have an CNC machine........


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not much progress today even though I spent about 6 hours working on it: 

Passenger side rear quarter panel









Drivers side rear quarter panel









Inside drivers side rear quarter panel. This is basically an air vent with pressure vent to outside.









Starting on the rear floor pan.











Okay, I will officially say I hate doing deadening on these quarter panels as much as I hate doing doors. I think I take the extreme overboard route with most of this stuff. What you can't see in these pictures is the sheer amount of deadener that is down inside those rear wall cavities. Put it this way, I've used an entire 36 sq ft box of deadener at this point just doing the rear quarters and that little bit on the floor.

I'm going to do the rear floor and the 5 doors just as thoroughly but the front floor pan I will not do as heavy as it already has lots of factory deadener and is pretty solid sounding.

Tomorrow I plan to finish the rear floor and the rear seat riser area as well as some of the front floor pan to try to get ready to get the carpet back in. Will have to order more deadener for the doors.

I did order a set of 5 Gloss Jet Black SCS F-5 wheels in 16x8 today. Think that puts me down to tires, front bumper and winch regarding major items still to go this year.


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## meantaco (Apr 10, 2011)

Great build Im really happy you went with the SCS f5 Great choice of wheels. I was going to recommend you that set of wheels. By the way you should make a build thread on tacomaworld! Cant wait to see the outcome! Have you seen brute force hybrid front bumper?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

meantaco said:


> Great build Im really happy you went with the SCS f5 Great choice of wheels. I was going to recommend you that set of wheels. By the way you should make a build thread on tacomaworld! Cant wait to see the outcome! Have you seen brute force hybrid front bumper?



Thanks!

Hadn't seen that front bumper but don't think it will fit a 3rd gen 4runner. I think it is the earlier tacoma that shares figment with the 96-02 4runners. 

I'm looking at front bumpers from shrockworks, CBI, ARB and a few others at moment. Trying to narrow it down.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Few new items showed up ready to be painted and/or installed at some point. 

Stubbs welding HD-SKO










Toyota Tundra 199mm Brake Upgrade with:
Toyota OEM rotors
Toyota OEM Front Pads, Pins, Clips, Springs & Shims (199mm)
Toyota OEM Rear Shoes (4runner sized)
NAPA Total Eclipse S13WE Calipers (199mm)
Wheelers Offroad Stainless Front Brake Line Set
Sonoran Steel Stainless Rear Brake Line (not pictured - came with lift)


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Love this. Great job!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Will be working on interior over the weekend but wanted to add a brief update. Few more items inbound:

> Warn Zeon 10S Winch with wireless remote
> Corbeau D1204T / D1205T racing seat brackets 


Also placed an order for a custom front bumper yesterday with an estimated 8 week build time.


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## meantaco (Apr 10, 2011)

Nice! what bumper did you end up ordering? By the way have you heard the morel maximos (whats your opinion)?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I have not heard the Morels, sorry. 

On the front bumper I can't say yet. I'm getting a new prototype that someone is making but they haven't advertised it for sale yet so they asked me not to say or share sample pictures before it goes into full production. 

I will just say it is from a mainstream fab shop and should be high quality in addition to being really innovative in design.


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## Changchung (Aug 15, 2012)

Again, congrats, you are doing an excellent job, you will be very proud when is finish...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks Changchung!



Picked this up today on sale at Napa. Normally over $400 I believe and they have on sale for $199 right now. 3.5 tons and just shy of 21" height.











Fedex also brought a box of Ensolite today. Ordered 3 yards of it without the peel and stick backing so I could wad it up and stuff inside panels to control noise. No picture but it's the same grey padding looking stuff in my other pictures that you get from Raamaudio.com


Lastly, I spent a little time today getting the back bumper off and spare tire off so I can replace my rear cabin pressure vent and get ready for my CBI bumper when it get's here in a month or so.










Old pressure vent


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Some primer applied this morning. I'm using Krylon Rust Tough spray paint.......... (I do know I got too much on the weld plates and will have to clean them up before welding)

















And first coat of Krylon Rust Tough Semi-Flat Black

















Hard to see much difference but final coat applied on sliders and close up of Semi-Flat color


























Honestly not sure I like the paint color and may end up top coating with gloss black. My truck is black, and my rims in route are SCS F-5 gloss jet black, so these may not blend in. Want to get it pinned down before my front/rear bumpers are here as I plan to paint them as well, and also wanted to paint my limited fenders and trim a similar color as well.

What do you guys think? This have too much of a grey look to it?


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## meantaco (Apr 10, 2011)

It looks really nice!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks meantaco!



In addition to priming and painting my sliders, I got the new pressure vent installed today:












































And, I got the headliner reinstalled today. Finished putting sound deadener pieces around the parameter of the roof area and taped all the edges with the foil tape. Then I vacuumed the back of the headliner and sprayed with some Ozium new car smell stuff. Then I lined the back of the headliner with peel and stick ensolite closed cell foam in all parts except where the sunroof slides open. Of course, I forgot to take pictures, but here it is installed again.












Part of the wait to get this up was waiting for this press fit clips from Toyota to arrive. I found it impossible to get them out without breaking all but 1 of them. You can just barely see them in the above picture as they look like dirt or smudge spots, but there are 6 of these that help hold up the rear center of the headliner.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

Keep up great work, looks bad ass so far!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not much new this week. 


Just this update from earlier in week:












And one update received today. Not sure this is the best radio but it has modern features like NOAA weather and a nice display. I'm hoping I can make this fit in the dash with the pioneer radio once I get to point of replacing my stereo. CBI is putting an antenna mount tab on the rear bumper as well. 




















Tomorrow, a set of five SCS F-5 Gloss Jet Black wheels and lug nuts should be showing up along with some wiring techflex and heat shrink. Ill post pictures. I'm hopeful to start getting audio wiring and CB antenna wiring in place next along with my Tacoma Whip Mod. That will allow me to finalize floor sound deadening and start getting carpet installed. 



No install progress made this week unfortunately.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Couple more packages showed up today. I've got lots of work to get busy on!


Now I just need to get some 33" Goodyear MTR meat on these wheels and ill be all set. 



















Got a bunch of 3/8 easy cut techflex and a few different sizes of white heat shrink to start running audio and CB cables. 














Still waiting on bumpers, corbeau seat brackets, recovery gear, and I'm thinking of doing ball joints and tie rods when I install lift and brakes.


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## Changchung (Aug 15, 2012)

This truck will look very nice...


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## TheBetterMethod (Sep 19, 2012)

I love the wheel choice!

You can't go wrong with a simple 5-spoke design.

I like where this is going!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Coming along nicely. Did you get your Techflex from Furryletters on Ebay? He's about the cheapest I've found and the best customer service I've ever had, bar none. He even gave me money back since shipping ended up being cheaper. I mean, who does that!?! lol

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> Coming along nicely. Did you get your Techflex from Furryletters on Ebay? He's about the cheapest I've found and the best customer service I've ever had, bar none. He even gave me money back since shipping ended up being cheaper. I mean, who does that!?! lol
> 
> Jay


Yes I did and I also got a few bucks back on shipping. I bought from him years ago on my tundra build also. Great guy.


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

Keep the pics and updates coming. I love this version of 4 runners.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I know this is crazy but I have the urge to paint this thing a flat desert tan type color with black accents. Any idea how hard it would be to get a reasonable looking finish on this? Not looking for a show paint job as this will always be a weekend and trail truck. Any thoughts?


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

txbonds said:


> I know this is crazy but I have the urge to paint this thing a flat desert tan type color with black accents. Any idea how hard it would be to get a reasonable looking finish on this? Not looking for a show paint job as this will always be a weekend and trail truck. Any thoughts?



If you go the route of Plasti dip you can always revert back to original and save a boat load of cash by this method.Plasti dip is all the rage at the moment.If I remember right its around $500 for an entire car.Follow the link below and you can see an entire car being done by the fella who invented the stuff,I believe he did anyway.


PlastiDip M3 Matte White - DipYourCar.com Pro Car Kit - YouTube


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks. Prefer actual paint. This will be offroad. Don't think the plastic will hold up.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> If you go the route of Plasti dip you can always revert back to original and save a boat load of cash by this method.Plasti dip is all the rage at the moment.If I remember right its around $500 for an entire car.Follow the link below and you can see an entire car being done by the fella who invented the stuff,I believe he did anyway.
> 
> 
> PlastiDip M3 Matte White - DipYourCar.com Pro Car Kit - YouTube


Fonzie didn't invent it. He just uses it. ALOT. lol

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I was thinking about trying either regular krylon ultra flat khaki rattle can or maybe even something like this with a sprayer. HRF 233 - Desert Tan

Remember, offroad usage and easy scratch touch up is more important than show stopping paint job.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

That HRF 233 looks nice.If it will receive off road punishment spray it your self with the 233.I think you can make it look good if you put enough time into preparing it to receive the new paint.Remember that it takes more time to prep and tape than it does to shoot it.Im excited to see this new color now!


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

The desert tan will definitely be much cooler out on the trail. Looks like you did a good enough job on the paint on the slider rails, so shoot it yourself...it's gonna be a trail/off-road truck, the less pristine it looks the less you will worry when it gets scratched up or sand/rock pitted. I just don't understand why you went with those ultra-glossy jet black painted wheels in the first place if this is meant to be a weekend/off-road/trail truck?  I really do like the wheels, though.  But now they should be painted a really dark, flat Army/olive green, or FLAT black. 

There's a 4Runner out in my area (think Joshua Tree) that a bleach-blonde Paris Hilton-type chick drives that is Black & White Zebra Stripes with Hot Pink accents, but all Flat paint. LOL. It works...for her.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> The desert tan will definitely be much cooler out on the trail. Looks like you did a good enough job on the paint on the slider rails, so shoot it yourself...it's gonna be a trail/off-road truck, the less pristine it looks the less you will worry when it gets scratched up or sand/rock pitted. I just don't understand why you went with those ultra-glossy jet black painted wheels in the first place if this is meant to be a weekend/off-road/trail truck?  I really do like the wheels, though.  But now they should be painted a really dark, flat Army/olive green, or FLAT black.


Only color they had in stock and they are blem wheels so I got a really good discount.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

So I'm looking at this guys thread as inspiration. If i go rattle can route, How do I avoid the streaks he had?

Desert Tan Paintjob

Desert Tan Paint Job


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

txbonds said:


> Only color they had in stock and they are blem wheels so I got a really good discount.


Ahhh...okay. Good deal, that makes sense. 

I like how that Jeep turned out with the Desert Tan. Check out YouTube for painting techniques.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Ahhh...okay. Good deal, that makes sense.


Yep. Only blems are inside barrel behind the stars so not even noticeable to me.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Local Line X dealer gave me a $3,000 quote for exterior color spraying. Then said they wouldn't do it due to liability as they only spray beds and boats. That's just crazy and I'd do a rattle can or roll on job before spending that kind of money. 

After a few calls around town I'm taking the truck to a local painter I found tomorrow morning for a basic exterior flat desert tan urethane single coat paint job. 

Also just dropped 4 wheels off to get 285/75-16 Goodyear MTRs installed tomorrow. 

Will post update pictures soon.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Pulled the roof rack and cabin vent off to help paint prep a little but not much more I can really do. They will sand and mask everything else. 

Dropped it off with a stack of pictures showing flat desert tan to coyote colored vehicles for reference. Will get it back on Friday hopefully. 

Also happy to say it fired right up this morning after sitting idle and uncranked in the garage for weeks. 

Big Smiles.   



PS: I also took them a printout of this page for reference so we will see what they come up with for color
Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum - View Single Post - New paint job! What color should I get?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Dropping off for painting this morning























And as of this afternoon finally got some meat on the bones


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Dropping off for painting this morning


Well, that escalated quickly! Seems like it was like 2 days ago you said you were thinking of going with tan flat...and here it is a few days later and you already found a painter and dropped it off! You work quick. lol

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

JayinMI said:


> Well, that escalated quickly! Seems like it was like 2 days ago you said you were thinking of going with tan flat...and here it is a few days later and you already found a painter and dropped it off! You work quick. lol
> 
> Jay




Yeah, it's a curse. May be an asset at times but a fault for sure most times. 

This whole project has happened way faster than I really planned I guess. Trying to get to a certain point this year. I can see a vision in my head of what I'm working towards. Would be nice to have more time to get work done on the project and a team of helpers, but I think I'm making okay progress. Getting most everything done I had wanted except for replacing wiring harnesses and head liner but that was just too much cost to justify since the factory ones are still in good shape at this time. 

Next year thinking of sprucing up the engine and transmission but this year is more basic platform and aesthetic upgrades.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No going back now





















And after seeing the four variations this morning, I let my son choose the color. He ended up picking our original Desert Tan idea after all. (Top right)










These are wet and freshly painted without flattener. Ours will be almost completely flat with only a hint of sheen. Sort of like satin or eggshell I guess but only enough to make it easier to wash.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

I used to have an '86 XJ that I sprayed with a faux "suade" paint that I bought at a craft store. It was a nice tan color close to desert tan (maybe a touch darker), but it also had a bit of sand like texture to it to immitate suade texture. Was kinda cool and I got a lot of comments and inquiries about the paint out in town and whenever I was on the trail with other people. One problem though was that because of the texture, it was a bit tougher to clean. I did the same thing though...truck was tan, everything else was flat black.

I don't have any pics of it on my photobucket since it was a while ago, but I'll see if I can find a pic and post it up.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Offroader5 said:


> I used to have an '86 XJ that I sprayed with a faux "suade" paint that I bought at a craft store. It was a nice tan color close to desert tan (maybe a touch darker), but it also had a bit of sand like texture to it to immitate suade texture. Was kinda cool and I got a lot of comments and inquiries about the paint out in town and whenever I was on the trail with other people. One problem though was that because of the texture, it was a bit tougher to clean. I did the same thing though...truck was tan, everything else was flat black.
> 
> I don't have any pics of it on my photobucket since it was a while ago, but I'll see if I can find a pic and post it up.


Cool. Love to see it.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Probably not going to appeal to everyone but here is the initial unveiling





















It has a little more yellow than my hat





























Should give an idea of how the tires/wheels will look










Have to visualize grille painted black


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## TheBetterMethod (Sep 19, 2012)

Cool!

It looks like they did a decent job painting it all. 
Now mount the wheels and get some mud on her!


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## AVIDEDTR (Sep 11, 2008)

Dude - love the attention to detail. Paint is a great color - fugly, but great


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Bravo sir, simply bravo.....


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

A bit lighter than I was picturing in my head, but does look like they did a good job. Did they paint the welting between the fender and flares??


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Offroader5 said:


> A bit lighter than I was picturing in my head, but does look like they did a good job. Did they paint the welting between the fender and flares??


Yep, painted right over it.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

not a fan of the tan at all - id of kept it black and murdered out, but wow dude, you are taking your time and doing it right!

love the rims and the bumper guards! as far as the deadener - the only thing you are missing is mass loaded vinyl (MLV). basically you want to put down the constrained layer dampener (CLD) like you did, then the closed cell foam (CCF) like you did, then add a layer of MLV. MLV will block high frequency stuff, road noise, wind noise, resonances and such - and act as another heat barrier. its way harder to work with than CCF - its literally a piece of vinyl that is like 1\8" thick and hard. it is usually about 1LB\SQFT - so it can get pretty heavy real quick - but audibly it makes the most difference next to regular CLD dampener (like dynamat or second skin). the rubber on the bottom of the carpet should be very close to a MLV layer.

here is a link to do some reading on the subject;
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

i like the sub enclosure a lot! i wish i had access to a CNC - that would be great. a hand router will have to do. i think if i built that i would have tried to flush the speaker with the opening for looks, but it does seem like a really well build enclosure! the amp also looks cool mounted like that. i will have to take that tip from you about the marine wood, i have been looking for a product like that i can buy locally - and there is a west marine about 30 minutes from here... i would prefer 3\4" or 1" so that i can make speaker baffles out of the stuff too though. i can buy king starboard off ebay though - but i hate waiting 

the car is really coming together quite nice!!! interested to see what you will do with the speaker installation.

just a tip - DUCT SEAL is GREAT for mass loading around speakers. it comes in 1LB bricks at lowes and home depot (i found it in home depot in the electrical isle where they sell zip ties and crimp terminals). its a sticky grey clay-like substance. it does not melt, it does not harden, and it will stick to just about anything that has been cleaned of grease\dirt. use it as a gasket between your speaker baffle and the door, then put the rest around the speaker ring to build up mass. this will help kill resonances and vibrations in the door 

also, instead of stuffing CCF in the holes in your car, look into ROXUL. its a stone-wool insualtion that you can use to kill noise and act as a heat barrier up in those areas. its a little expensive - but it has no fiberglass and is super easy to use. it is water resistant, and wont grow mold or anything. it should work a hell of a lot better than balled up CCF. CCF is used as a constraining layer between dampening materials or panels to prevent buzzing\vibrating and to "float" the MLV layer over the CLD layer - i wouldnt waste it balled up inside a hole 

hope that helps sir!
-andy


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

I think seeing it all completed on the rocks,crawling,in its environment,is going to show case its looks! Great job.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Hey Andy, thanks for the response. 

I liked the black but wasn't really thrilled with the amount of work to keep it looking nice and the first hot day of summer it got so hot I decided right then the color had to change. 

I think the tan will look better once all the chrome is gone and the black trim items start to get attached. My son wants to paint some camo spots on it but I'm not sure I want to yet. I've found a toyota truck that looks good that way but again not sure. 

On the MLV, I ordered my carpet molded with a heavy mass loaded vinyl backing. Hence I'm counting on that additional layer adding the same effect as you mention once it is on top of deadner and ensolite. The stock carpet didn't have it. Also the rear cargo area has a heavy stock rubber/vinyl pad that goes under the carpet also which should help even more to block noise back there. 

On the stuffing inside body panels, I already have e ensolite on hand now. It might not be best item but for no more panels than ill have to stuff I guess I might as well use it unless I find another spot I can use the ensolite. That said, is ensolite prone to mold? That is the main comment ou made that gives me a moment of concern. 


The marine wood is king starboard. Same stuff and cheaper online if you can wait or if you need a lot. I picked this up locally as my needs will be much less to just mount one amp and make two speaker mounts/rings. It works out great though as its dense and water proof but may not dampen resonance as well as mdf but I don't know. It worked great on my prior tundra though for speaker rings. 

Thanks again for the tips. Regards. 





req said:


> not a fan of the tan at all - id of kept it black and murdered out, but wow dude, you are taking your time and doing it right!
> 
> love the rims and the bumper guards! as far as the deadener - the only thing you are missing is mass loaded vinyl (MLV). basically you want to put down the constrained layer dampener (CLD) like you did, then the closed cell foam (CCF) like you did, then add a layer of MLV. MLV will block high frequency stuff, road noise, wind noise, resonances and such - and act as another heat barrier. its way harder to work with than CCF - its literally a piece of vinyl that is like 1\8" thick and hard. it is usually about 1LB\SQFT - so it can get pretty heavy real quick - but audibly it makes the most difference next to regular CLD dampener (like dynamat or second skin). the rubber on the bottom of the carpet should be very close to a MLV layer.
> 
> ...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> I think seeing it all completed on the rocks,crawling,in its environment,is going to show case its looks! Great job.


Thanks. Can't wait to see it myself. 


It's getting the new brakes installed today along with brake fluid flush and refill and front/rear diff flush and refill. I'm putting tundra calipers, rotors and pads on front, new 4runner shoes on back and extended stainless brake lines all around. All toyota parts except brake lines and calipers. Calipers are napa total eclipse 199mm tundra calipers.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

if the neoprene is open celled foam, then it will hold water and could possibly be a breeding ground. closed cell foam is just that - closed bubbles.

open on the left, closed on the right









http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1208439-post12.html

if it is infact closed cell you are using, then it should be cool - but if you ball it up and there are cracks and crevices for water to pool in a water-prone area - then i would be concerned. the main main point is - CCF is used as a de-coupler for the MLV layer and the CCF layer. to get maximum efficency you want the MLV to 'float' and have that barrier of air bubbles in between as a transient for the sound waves to go through. basically the more times sound has to transit between states of solid\liquid\gas, the more energy will be wasted to heat, and the more sound will be absorbed. it works the same with building sound proofing.

here is a GREAT read with good illustrations on the topic.

Decoupling

i just dont want you to waste product, thats all :'(


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

It's this stuff. Ensolite IUO --- 1 yard (14 sq ft), Glue On version ( I recommend the PS version for most installs as far easier to work) - RAAMaudio Inc.


Says closed cell foam with open face whatever that means.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Total change of direction on the aftermarket seats. My factory seats smell and look disgusting. I checked on prices to get recovered and I'm embarrassed to even list the price they quoted (not counting new foam) but suffice to say I could buy foam and katskinz cheaper


I had a standing order for corbeau seat brackets that I've recently found out is not likely to be filled for many months as the company that makes man of the aftermarket brackets out there, wedge engineering, was bought out and just moved and isn't making brackets quite yet. I'm guessing it might be September or later to get them. 



So, I have been doing some options research and after talking with the folks at Planted Technology, they are going to sell me their seat bracket top plates without tabs and I will either retrofit my stock tabs or make some tabs to weld or bolt on. They don't have a ready to go bracket for a 96-00 4runner. http://www.plantedtechnology.com/

This will allow me to use most any brand seat and slider now instead of restricting me to just corbeau only. 

Also they can ship today and I can have them in 5 or so days to get tabbed up and painted. Whoo hooo!


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

do you see the difference in the smaller cavities of the lower CCF? this stuff is not really a sound absorbing stuff like the ROXUL would be, its really just meant as a decoupling layer. use it how you would prefer though - it is your install


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## childersbros (Jan 12, 2012)

LOVE THE COLOR. LOOKING GREAT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

req said:


> do you see the difference in the smaller cavities of the lower CCF? this stuff is not really a sound absorbing stuff like the ROXUL would be, its really just meant as a decoupling layer. use it how you would prefer though - it is your install


So this is what you are suggesting I buy to stuff into the cavity voids? And the ensolite goes between buytl sound deadner and my MLV carpet backing?

Shop Roxul 8-Pack 47-in L x 23-in W x 3-in D Stone Wool Insulation Batts at Lowes.com


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

childersbros said:


> LOVE THE COLOR. LOOKING GREAT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.


Thanks for all the comments above. I really appreciate the feedback as the positive energy helps somedays with having the energy to keep seeing the project through. LOL. This stuff doesn't seem as easy as it did just 5 or 10 years ago. Getting old sure seems to suck some days. Recovery time is a *****.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Changed out the electric antenna today for the Tacoma Whip setup. There are plenty of instructions around the web detailing this but I'll still share some pictures.

Here is the part number from the standard fixed antenna base:









Here is the black tacoma whip antenna:









Thought it cool the antenna came with a little wrench to keep in the glove box:









To get to antenna base, you have to remove part of the inner fender well. I found this very difficult even following the instructions I found on the web. I think the biggest difference was the person that put up instructions and pictures didn't look to have limited fenders and mine does. What I found is on the back of the limited fenders there are clips holding the liner. Also, there are a few bolts to remove. Here are some pictures.


































This is the power wire coming pretty high up in the fender above the coax entry point and above the tire. This is where the motorized antenna connects for power. After disconnecting this harness plug, I just wire tied it to the hose so it wouldn't rattle.









Coax entry point. Comes out just inside the passenger foot well kick panel. The rubber grommet came with the new antenna base.









New antenna base. This mounts to the same spot as the electric motorized antenna base. Basically one screw holds the bottom and the top is sandwiched through the sheet metal body.


































And all installed. Has a little lean, and I'm not sure if that is normal or if I somehow have the top off center, but actually I kind of like it as it keeps the antenna a little more inside the path of the truck if that makes sense.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Looking good and like you said when off road that angle might just be what keeps it from getting snapped off.I would say leave if thats the natural angle it took to when tightened.

For some encouragement, I have 3 of my close friends here in Memphis keeping up with this through me.They love Toyota and really like what you are doing with it.One of my friends said the only thing missing is a matching Tan LaRue Tactical mounted in it!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Looking good and like you said when off road that angle might just be what keeps it from getting snapped off.I would say leave if thats the natural angle it took to when tightened.
> 
> For some encouragement, I have 3 of my close friends here in Memphis keeping up with this through me.They love Toyota and really like what you are doing with it.One of my friends said the only thing missing is a matching Tan LaRue Tactical mounted in it!



I love me some Dillo Dust. I buy stuff from LaRue sometimes just to get another bottle.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Put down at least 2 solid overlapping layers of the roadkill extreme deadner in the rear cargo area until the resonance of the sheet metal sounded lower











Then put down a layer of peel and stick ensolite from raamaudio onto the deadner












Didn't get a ton of time to work on it today but got the rear cargo area almost ready for the next step anyway.













Next I'm working on test fitting and mounting the head unit and CB radio into the dash radio bezel.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

txbonds said:


> I love me some Dillo Dust. I buy stuff from LaRue sometimes just to get another bottle.


 I will have to try some of that.I have not graduated to LaRue perfection yet.Im still shooting Stag and Colt.

Sound damper is coming along good!

Waiting to see that head unit and CB go in now.

Keep up the good work!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> I will have to try some of that.I have not graduated to LaRue perfection yet.Im still shooting Stag and Colt.
> 
> Sound damper is coming along good!
> 
> ...



Thanks man. It's going to be tricky as the CB chassis is just slightly wider than Din so I'm going to have to fab some brackets. Will also have to slightly enlarge the bezel opening. That said I've not test fit for depth yet so we will see when I get to that step.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

txbonds said:


> So this is what you are suggesting I buy to stuff into the cavity voids? And the ensolite goes between buytl sound deadner and my MLV carpet backing?
> 
> Shop Roxul 8-Pack 47-in L x 23-in W x 3-in D Stone Wool Insulation Batts at Lowes.com


yes sir. this is what the stuff should do;



> •*no fiberglass* in product
> •*Water-resistant *
> •Non-combustible, *fire-resistant* up to 2150 F
> •*Excellent sound absorbency*, sound deadening properties
> ...


the cool part is, it will insulate your car from heat as well. i know that was one of your points to the tan color. and it is not permanent or anything. just put it anywhere there is a gap to fill that isnt access to get to anything maintenance wise. but it is good stuff


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

The past few nights I've been playing around with the pioneer head unit and the uniden CB. They will not fit the stock brackets.

Couple of issues

> The CB is about 1/4 inch wider than the pioneer radio
> The CB is a good bit deeper than the pioneer radio and has the antenna and power connections on the back. 
> with the pioneer radio on top and the CB spaced out the front door to access the CD slot won't open without hitting the CB
> with pioneer on bottom the CB shields view of the radio 
> pioneer rcs connections are on back of radio which means even with short plug RCA wires they still are hitting the vent somewhat


So far, my solution looks like it will involve spacing the two out of the dash an inch or two with a custom made bracket and then a trim ring around them as needed to dress it up a little. I purchased some aluminum stock to tinker with it that's as far as I've made it so far. I'd really like this to work rather than putting CB in another spot but we will see I guess.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

So given the desert tan color, would something like this be totally wrong, goofy, disrespectful, etc?











Just looking at the many historical military vehicles and the modern day Oscar Mike jeep, I was thinking a similar theme might look neat on the runner using vinyl graphics. This would just be for fun and not an attempt at anything historical obviously but just curious what others think about the idea.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Okay, I think I finally have a plan of action on the CB / Radio mounting situation. Rather than space the units out of the dash via custom brackets, I'm going a different route. Understanding this may not work out well and will kill the warranty, it still seems like the best option. 

Took the cover off the Uniden Bearcat 880. 










If you look here you can see the power, speaker and antenna connection points. 











My basic plan is to convert the hard antenna connection to an external pigtail, the hard power connection to an external pigtail and possibly route the speaker connection out the same way and create an external speaker out of it. This allows the CB to sit flush in the dash with the Pioneer and not worry about space needed behind it as much. 

Easy, right? What could go wrong? LOL. Fingers crossed.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

Looks like you could just extend the black & white wires going to the speaker to mount an external anywhere you wanted. More or less just relocating the speaker to a different location.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

On stand by for this!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Offroader5 said:


> Looks like you could just extend the black & white wires going to the speaker to mount an external anywhere you wanted. More or less just relocating the speaker to a different location.


I'm thinking the same thing for the speaker and the power connection. Just snip the wire and solder and heat shrink on a longer lead. 

The coax looks like I would just need to de-solder the single wire, remove the mounted connection and the connect my pig tail to the wire and ground the outer coax to the radio chassis. 


Got the idea from stumbling across this:
Slee - Uniden CB Install (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

careful to do it really well on the coax, RF is much more finicky than low frequency.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Where are the pics with the new wheels on? lol

Jay


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Fairly certain that I've made a mess of this. I'm not happy with the way it has turned out for the moment as I don't have a good way to keep to coax pigtail from moving the fragile antenna solder joint. 

Anyway, here are some pictures of the destruction for your entertainment

Couldn't get the connector to unscrew without damage to the wire soldered to it so I clipped the rear panel like on the slee website









Solder removed but since I couldn't get the connector nut off, I had to clip this solder joint to be able to removed the connector

Connector removed









Prepping the pigtail wire and connector









Soldering the PL-259 connector onto the RG-8X pigtail wire









Pigtail taking shape









A little dressing









Untangling the braid for a ground to CB chassis. 









Chassis ground prepared and ring terminal soldered on









Ground strap attached









Hard to see it but center coax wire soldered to antenna connection wire that I clipped earlier 









Power wire pigtail

















And finally, the way the back currently looks. 












The grommet I used isn't quite tight enough to provide a real strain relief for the wire and as such the wire can move which moves the internal connection. I think I have an idea to solve it but got tired of playing for tonight. If I can pin this down, ill seal up the hole with some sort of glue or sealant to add some additional strength and strain relief. Then on to the speaker and hoping this all actually works out well without compromising the radios communication range and what not. 


Cheers!!


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

How about packing the extra room in the grommet with hot glue. Once cooled it should be stiff enough to keep the wires from shifting around, but still give a bit of flexibility for strain relief. Plus...it's not permanent if you want to change something later.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Offroader5 said:


> How about packing the extra room in the grommet with hot glue. Once cooled it should be stiff enough to keep the wires from shifting around, but still give a bit of flexibility for strain relief. Plus...it's not permanent if you want to change something later.


Maybe. I was thinking something like that or epoxy or something. Needs to dry hard though so the wire doesn't move once dry and/or cured. Also thinking of pulling the wire to one side and wire tying to chassis to help secure it from movement. The two combined are probably my best shot without affecting mounting depth. 

Also considering cutting off the techflex and heat shrink dressing to allow more flexibility and thereby reduce some more stress on the part passing through the chassis. 

If this doesn't work though, as in the radio doesn't perform or it has weak range then ill have to suck it p and face the music of a couple of "I told you so's" from folks that said it was a bad idea. LOL.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Phase one of wire strain relief complete. 





























Took off the techflex and most of the heat shrink to make the coax as flexible as possible. Only left heat shrink for part passing through the grommet. 

Then carefully pulled it to one side and wire tied it to chassis and then using standard JB Weld did my sloppy patch work to tie chassis back together where I cut it and to seal grommet in as well. 

Once this stuff cures solid, I will come back tomorrow and install either clear epoxy or maybe just hot glue into the grommet to hold the wire in position so the part inside me case doesn't move when the part outside the case is flexed. 

Hopefully all this effort pays off into a radio that fits my space and still works well, but I still have my doubts. LOL.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

use hot glue.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Sealed up the space around wires with hot glue. Did the trick nicely. Need a little more but had to get more glue sticks. Pics to follow..

Fired up CB connected to wire and antenna but it was only able to pick up a weather station. Not sure if that's bad, but the antenna was not mounted, grounded or tuned so its hard to really say. 

Also got my black vinyl corbeau sport front seats ordered to mount on the planted technology brackets ill be customizing to fit the runner. Just need to get two sets of seat sliders ordered now. 

Corbeau: Sport Seat
Planted Seat Bracket Technology - Planted Technology Seat Brackets for aftermarket seats OMP, Recaro, Sparco, Cobra...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

First run at painting my hood blackout. I think it turned out nicely so far but am thinking of bringing it a little further down the hood towards the front to the end of the two centerline contour points, if that makes sense. This is meant to be functional to limit glare while using roof rack lights. 

Any opinions?



Taping of area










Sanded with green scotch brite pad to rough surface











Painted with flat black rustoleum (still wet)


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Thats a good idea but looks like you are getting equal reflection?

Lots of off roaders here use the Duplicolor truck bed armor to cover hoods and so on.It works very good.Looks very good and adds a more rugged look to the vehicle.Just something to consider if this does not turn out to give you the result you wanted.

That Kobalt vac on the wall is nice also.I have 2 like it.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Thats a good idea but looks like you are getting equal reflection?
> 
> Lots of off roaders here use the Duplicolor truck bed armor to cover hoods and so on.It works very good.Looks very good and adds a more rugged look to the vehicle.Just something to consider if this does not turn out to give you the result you wanted.
> 
> That Kobalt vac on the wall is nice also.I have 2 like it.


Thanks. Paint was freshly painted and wet in picture. Once dry it should be very flat. Will post a difference picture tomorrow.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Yes I just went back to the pic and see that you stated (still wet).Sorry for missing that.

Cant wait to see it dry!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Yes I just went back to the pic and see that you stated (still wet).Sorry for missing that.
> 
> Cant wait to see it dry!



Sort of following suit from my last 4x4 which was a 2001 land rover bought new back then. I had the hood blacked out on it and know I like the effect, so I'm just trying to mimic that with this build. Difference is that was a $50k vehicle before upgrades and this was $2.5k. 

Only pics handy but of my land rover. 




















I had 4 of those 100 watt hella rally 4000 lights up there and when they were all firing it was bright, bright, bright. The hood blackout was so much easier on the eyes when driving at night, but also helps on a sunny day.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Put on another coat and Increased length a little to better follow hood contour. 


Taping and sanded with scotch brite pad again









Still wet and freshly painted









Looks a little odd in the very front. I might should have pulled the curve out a little to make the beige gap above the grille look more uniform but it looks okay in person. 










I think once all the silver comes off and the custom black bumpers and new rims and tires and custom roof rack all go on, the hood blackout will look more like it belongs there. Once the flat black dries fully and gets some dirt on it, the small amount of natural sheen will diminish. 

I really like it, but am not sure I like how my personal paint job turned out. LOL. I'm the worlds worse painter.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

I see it all coming into to focus now.Thats going to be slick.

I just cant believe you only gave 2.5 for that Yota.That thing is 5K with the bad interior all day long in my area.

Will Hella go back on this one or a LED bar?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> I see it all coming into to focus now.Thats going to be slick.
> 
> I just cant believe you only gave 2.5 for that Yota.That thing is 5K with the bad interior all day long in my area.
> 
> Will Hella go back on this one or a LED bar?


I would love Hellas but not sure the runner roof rack is tall enough to look right. The rover roof was tiered so the front of the rack was pretty high and made the hells fit nicely. 

The runner rack is made for LED but I asked them to make it a few inches deeper. We will see I guess in a few weeks. 

4Runner rack
http://whitsonmetalworks.com/full-length-3rd-gen-rack/

Rack I had on my land rover
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/safetydevices/110-1026_IMG.jpg


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Hate to admit it but it is drying out to look like crap. You can see all of the roller marks and lines as well as different layers and textures where I have multiple coats. 

I see no option other than to sand all of the black down and start over. This time ill tape it off and sand it with the power sander and then spray it black as I think,that is the only way in going to get a streak free finish on it. Roller and spray can paint just are not going to work on such a large flat area. 

Not a big deal but does mean extra work.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not as bad as i had feared now that its more dry. Still not thrilled but it will do for right now. I may still redo down the line but we will see after I've lived with this for a while. 




















One of the issues I'm not thrilled with is you can still see the line between first paint area and new larger area. I sanded but think the only way to fix is sand whole thing and repaint at some point if this continues to bother me. My wife suggested a great idea for it that might just work if I go with the theme approach using decals.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got the CB finished up and buttoned back up during lunch today so it is ready to start working on the mount and dash fitting next. 

Took a picture of the top,side of the board just for kicks 









Ended up using hot glue to seal up what used to be the power connection









It's not pretty but it should hopefully work and get the job done









Next step is getting these two into a bracket together


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Unfinished planted technology base plates showed up today. Ill have to create my own feet/tabs to bolt these to the floor pan and will then need to paint them but once done my corbeau sliders and sport seats will be ready to attach.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

txbonds said:


> Unfinished planted technology base plates showed up today. Ill have to create my own feet/tabs to bolt these to the floor pan and will then need to paint them but once done my corbeau sliders and sport seats will be ready to attach.


Those look snazzy. Bet those set you back a bit of coin...for being what they are


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Offroader5 said:


> Those look snazzy. Bet those set you back a bit of coin...for being what they are


Take off a few bucks for welding on feet/tabs and for powder coating and they are a little cheaper than the completed planted seat brackets but you are right that they are pricey for a piece of steel.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No additional progress yet but some more goodies showed up this week:














































Corbeau double-lock seat sliders










My goal this weekend is to get the interior floor deadened, ensolite and cables run so I can start getting the new carpet installed.


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

where did you get that recovery rope from?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Victor_inox said:


> where did you get that recovery rope from?


Master Pull - Synthetic Winch Line / Rope, Kinetic Recovery Ropes, Recovery Gear

I used to have the same product except it was white with my land rover back 10 years ago and it was great.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another item showed up today. Gotta get my butt in gear and get the interior put back together.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

And coming to a theater near you ................................

A refurbished Hobart 140 and this flashy helmet my son picked out. LOL












My Dads been welding for over 40 years. I think I've finally managed to talk him into trying to teach me. I realize this isn't the most capable welder like a 180 to 200 amp model but its an around the house repair and tinkerer unit that I can use to learn and make repairs, brackets and stuff, etc. 

Always wanted to learn so I'm as excited about this as I am about the truck.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Nothing wrong with new toys!!

The seats and helmet look nice.Learning to weld is a good thing also.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got side tracked from working on the carpet to tear apart my passenger front seat and get the feet brackets off so I could start fitting my new seats. I need to pin down the process on the passenger side before I mess with the driver side or I'll be sitting on a bucket. 

More nastiness in the form of wads of dog hair stuck under the bottom of the seat hardware. Here you can see the stock sliders are attached directly to the feet using hardened steel rivets. 









I'll go ahead and post it here but these are a total b i t c h to drill out. Not only are they the type of rivet that is probably hardened steel, but I'm guessing they press them in hot like a rivet on a skyscraper. Either way, they are press fit and solid so drilling them is lots of fun. The frustrating part is that every single foot also has a blind rivet or weld on it that you can't see. So once you finish drilling through the ones you can see the heads on, you have to locate the hidden rivet and drill and additional hole. So in the case of the one pictured, there are two visible rivets and a blind rivet between them that must be drilled out to get the feet off. I'm not looking forward to the driver side. LOL 

Here is one of them bolted to the floor pan after drilling out the rivets

















Here is an idea of how the planted technology base plates will sit in the vehicle. 


















With a little work, I was able to line the plate up with the holes in the feet produced by drilling out the rivets. I'm thinking that I can bolt these down with some nice grade 8 hardware and then weld them after the fact for extra strength.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

Do you have a grinder? Would be way easier to remove the rivets by just grinding off the heads and popping them through. Maybe try that on the other seat


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## SHAGGS (Apr 24, 2011)

txbonds said:


> No additional progress yet but some more goodies showed up this week:


Neat-o! I actually make the screw pins, for those, at work! 
I've had to rework (bore out the threads) on a couple of the shackles for a newer-style (non threaded) pin.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I realize this isn't too sexy and exciting but here we go anyway 


First bracket coming together. The feet are attached using the holes created from drilling out the rivets and through the existing slots in the planted technology plate. Used grade 8 hardware with 5/16 x 1" bolts, 5/16 washer above and below and a 5/16 lock washer and nut. 

It is really strong once,bolted up so in an effort to stop the rust from getting worse and having a ton of cleanup work I decided to go ahead and prime and paint. I realize if I decide to come back and weld this will mean clean/prep work and repainting but I decided to take the chance on the bolts alone working for now. 

Primer






























Flat black paint






























Inside to finish drying and curing. I have temp in garage at 76 and humidity brought down to about 45 to 50 percent so it should cure out overnight pretty well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

SHAGGS said:


> Neat-o! I actually make the screw pins, for those, at work!
> I've had to rework (bore out the threads) on a couple of the shackles for a newer-style (non threaded) pin.




Cool, small world.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Went ahead and got the drivers side bracket setup and coated with paint also. 


Bottom of drivers seat. 









Drilled pilot holes. Raised ring is the rivet and the other hole is what I call the blind rivet. Probably a tack weld. 










After drilling out to 5/16, it still takes hits from a hammer to get bracket loose. 










Slider underneath bracket once they come off. Sticky residue almost like glue. 










All 4 feel brackets removed











And two quickly painted brackets drying












I've already decided to go back with wire brush on the feet to clean them up a,bit and to put some tack welds between foot and plate. Then I will repaint again but this initial paint will stop the rust that was already starting on the raw steel plates as they sat in the box waiting. 

Next up is fitting sliders to seat bottoms.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Few more updates but more waiting too........


My rear bumper is in route from CBI. It was just leaving Utah transfer station on last update from truck line and should get here late next week. No pictures yet. 

My roof rack was complete today by builder and I am going to pick up on saturday. He sent a picture. Looks really nice. 










And got my welder setup in and put together to start learning. 











Planning to get wiring for amp, speakers and antenna run this weekend so I can start fitting carpet.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Okay I officially detest rustoleum paint. It sprays horribly compared to the krylon rust tough I've been using. 

Started priming my new roof rack and am switching paint mid stream back to krylon. The krylon sprays much smoother and more even.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Some shots of what I was getting with the rustoleum new metal white primer stuff:

The results of an unexpected spurt of paint coming out and the paint coming out in a tight stream like a water hose.

















If you look close you can see the round little splurts visible in this section of paint.











And this morning, I decided I'm recoating the whole thing in Krylon Rust Tough, but for starters I painted the opposite side that didn't get paint yesterday to just get something on all the raw metal. Probably not necessary, but will go back over the the other side as well before painting the semi flat black.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Awesome work. It's coming together great! BTW, how heavy is the roof rack?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Awesome work. It's coming together great! BTW, how heavy is the roof rack?


Thanks. 

It's about 80 pounds.


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## Kenreau (Feb 10, 2011)

Awesome build and photo log, thanks for sharing all this. 

Just an idea, for what it's worth, given the stacked install of your CB radio and your Pioneer head unit, I would be concerned about possible interference screwing up your reception & sound quality. You may want to consider putting some RFI/EMF sheilding material between the two chassis as a precaution. Mu-metal, TI shield and similar might help. This website has a few suitable products.

EMF Safety Superstore - Electromagnetic Field Detection and Protection 

Best regards
Kenreau




txbonds said:


> Got the CB finished up and buttoned back up during lunch today so it is ready to start working on the mount and dash fitting next.
> 
> Took a picture of the top,side of the board just for kicks
> 
> Next step is getting these two into a bracket together


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Good idea. Ill check into that if I have any noise or interference problems. 



Kenreau said:


> Awesome build and photo log, thanks for sharing all this.
> 
> Just an idea, for what it's worth, given the stacked install of your CB radio and your Pioneer head unit, I would be concerned about possible interference screwing up your reception & sound quality. You may want to consider putting some RFI/EMF sheilding material between the two chassis as a precaution. Mu-metal, TI shield and similar might help. This website has a few suitable products.
> 
> ...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Almost ready for the rear bumper that shows up tomorrow. 

































































I still need to install the new pan hard bar and the new shocks but I need a drill bit for the shock mount holes and don't want to mount pan hard near until shocks are in to keep access more open. Getting the old shocks off was a b i t c h. I had to wedge a deep socket on the top nut and use channel locks to turn the shock boot/shield to get the off. 

It is so much higher it is crazy. I don't have any weight in the rear right now though. Once bumper and spare tire go on it should start to settle down a bit. There is no way it will fit in the garage though with lift and roof rack and I'm already thinking I might have to air down tires and weight truck down to clear the opening. LOL


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Starting to look like a proper off roader now!! Thats the stuff there!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Hard to see it but new land cruiser shocks and sonoran adjustable panhard bar installed, so the rear part of the lift kit is installed and ready to get the CBI bumper installed.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Starting to look like a proper off roader now!! Thats the stuff there!


Thanks man. I can't wait to get the rear bumper mounted up but it may be a few days before I can get to it. I still need t get interior cables and carpet in as painting the roof rack side tracked me over the weekend. 

Once the lift is all on, I am planning to completely scrub and degrease the underside of this thing. It is pretty grubby but I want to get all the service drips and spots off it so I can make sure nothing is leaking.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Taking a break but got the CBI base bumper temporarily mounted. I still need to drill holes and put in remaining bolts, but it looks pretty good I think. The fit was so tight I had to give the frame a few taps with e 3lb sledge to fit the bumper mount rails over the frame. Not easy getting this on but we managed with a little help from my wife and a stack of tires and wood for support. 

As it arrived









After removing all the other parts and pieces, you get down to the bumper









Tire swing and can carrier pieces









Working to get it on there










And mounted


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Oh snap.That bumper is great looking!!

Good choice!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Oh snap.That bumper is great looking!!
> 
> Good choice!


Thanks. Took me a while to decide on one. Was torn between this and the Savage rear bumper. The Savage would have been cheaper but in the end I liked how this one turned out. 





Unfortunately I think ill have to take it off as much as I don't want to due to how hard it was to mount but I need to sand the fender flare down under the side tubes and I need to paint the fenders if I'm going to. Still undecided on that though as the tan fenders are growing on me.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got tired and called it a night last night once the bumper was hanging on temp mounts. Tonight I need to drill for additional mounts but wanted some opinion on this. 

The front tubes just barely push against the fenders. Anybody know a way to safely widen the gap without taking bumper off? I was thinking a sanding belt maybe but don't want to hurt the powder coat on the bumper or do more damage than necessary. As you can see I already have tan paint marks in the powder coat from install fitting. 




















Bumper fits but I don't want it putting constant pressure on fender flare. Contact point is about the size of a penny. Thanks for any tips.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Rigged up a platform of sorts so I could slide bumper back enough to grind some material out of the fender flare. 











Not pretty but worked pretty well to take some pressure off the fender flares and not too visible once bumper is in place. Couldn't remove as much as I wanted as you can see the material is really thin and I already went through in the center. 





















Hard to see but the tube fits into the relief now rather than pressing on the fender as much. 

Drivers side turned out pretty good. 









Passenger side needs a little more removed from front side of tube area. 











Keep in mind these are close up pictures and once you step back it really isn't even visible.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Can you do as you are now with the notching/grinding of the polymer and fill it in then with touch it up Polymer repair kit and paint? Lay out the area with painters tape as you did the hood and do it to it!
Seems there are a lot of those repair kits for DIYers out there and you have the skill.

Keep up the good work!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Can you do as you are now with the notching/grinding of the polymer and fill it in then with touch it up Polymer repair kit and paint? Lay out the area with painters tape as you did the hood and do it to it!
> Seems there are a lot of those repair kits for DIYers out there and you have the skill.
> 
> Keep up the good work!



I don't have any paint to do touch up with. Not as concerned about the color as about dirt getting clogged in the holes. May do the patch though just to seal up the hole.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

If I had paid for that CUSTOM bumper (and a new paint job) I would have sent it back and had them made one that actually fit. 

Maybe it's a time constraint thing, but I would've just mounted the stock bumper until the custom one was remade. I would want at least a good 1/2" of clearance all around for body twist/flex when off-road.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

bbfoto is right, you are going to want clearance here. At full stuff your frame is going to flex considerably. I like the bumper otherwise. I was considering it last fall when my stock one rusted off. In the end I went with the Savage w/dom tubing. It fits perfect and has plenty of clearance from body.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

It would be Monday before I can call them but I guess I don't understand. 

This is a solid frame vehicle, solid axle rear with suspension mounted to frame. The body is mounted to frame. The bumper is mounted to frame. 

How is the bumper going to flex differently than the frame and body?


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

Stock body mounts are rubber and can deflect sideways, usually when in an off-camber situation. Maybe 1/4" - 1/2" depending on vehicle and how crazy you get.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

copperears said:


> Stock body mounts are rubber and can deflect sideways, usually when in an off-camber situation. Maybe 1/4" - 1/2" depending on vehicle and how crazy you get.


Okay, gotcha. I'm okay with how the bars meet the flares and ill just get a larger sanding wheel and clearance them further to give a 1/4" of space. Rather do that then have the bars sticking out further on the sides. These side bars are not standard items on their bumper and were a custom add on I requested. I understand some issues as they didn't have my truck (I'm in FL and they are in ID). I'm sure these are built on a jig which wouldn't give the same effect as a truck when adding on custom features. 

Everywhere else except one spot has at least 1/4" to 1/2" or more of space though so ill see what I can do to adjust the bumper some for that one spot before drilling the other mounts.

Sending it all the way back to Idaho will be a last resort if it can't be aligned or adjusted with the mounts. It was a very expensive item and I want it right but am also realistic enough to know that if I can easily adjust it, it's not worth the cost and time of shipping it back. 

Ill still call them on Monday to discuss though. Thanks.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

You didn't get any touch up paint for the tan?

If you do end up deciding to paint the flares black, then I say take the bumper back off and do the notches right one time and be done with it. I know it may be a pain in the arse to get the bumper back into place, but if you do it right from the beginning, chances are you won't need to take it back off later when you find out on the trail that you didn't clearance the flares enough.

I say notch the flares enough so there is a MINIMUM of 1/4" all the way around when the bumper is installed. You've already had to cut deep enough to where you're to the inside of the flare, so you might as well take it further to get the clearance you need. Maybe use a piece of small ABS pipe that has a bit larger ID than the bumper tubes OD. You could epoxy or JB Weld this ABS into where you've cut away the flare and then fill in around it, sand, paint to blend and wala...a clean, neat, and purpose made notch in the flare. Essentially you'd be using the ABS pipe to fill the hole you've made in the flare.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No, unfortunately I didn't even think to ask them for it. That said, I'm possibly going to have the front grill painted desert tan also so maybe I can get some then. 


I picked up a few different sized sanding drums and rotary grinder bits today so I can do a better job at notching the fender flare. Should look better and more rounded when done and ill be able to give proper spacing around the tube. 




Offroader5 said:


> You didn't get any touch up paint for the tan?
> 
> If you do end up deciding to paint the flares black, then I say take the bumper back off and do the notches right one time and be done with it. I know it may be a pain in the arse to get the bumper back into place, but if you do it right from the beginning, chances are you won't need to take it back off later when you find out on the trail that you didn't clearance the flares enough.
> 
> I say notch the flares enough so there is a MINIMUM of 1/4" all the way around when the bumper is installed. You've already had to cut deep enough to where you're to the inside of the flare, so you might as well take it further to get the clearance you need. Maybe use a piece of small ABS pipe that has a bit larger ID than the bumper tubes OD. You could epoxy or JB Weld this ABS into where you've cut away the flare and then fill in around it, sand, paint to blend and wala...a clean, neat, and purpose made notch in the flare. Essentially you'd be using the ABS pipe to fill the hole you've made in the flare.


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## SViglienzone4 (Apr 3, 2012)

Subbed; same head unit sub and amp as I ha also I drive an 03 tacoma. Keep up the cool build.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got clearance around the front tube using a drum sander. I realize its not as pretty as if the bars had been a little better placed to fit the side spacing of the flares and Obviously this is only my opinion here but I think it turned out pretty nice all things considered. I'll touch base with CBI on it tomorrow. 






















And bumper back in place






















And plenty of clearance now at the front of the bars


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Now your talking. Whats your idea on closing those notched areas off to sand and other pesky debris?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Now your talking. Whats your idea on closing those notched areas off to sand and other pesky debris?


Think Im Gonna just leave them open so they can drain. Can't see it in the picture but the underside of the fender facing the tire is still in tact and the part I cut into is over the bumper.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Sounds like a plan.Cant wait to see what you add next! Maybe a TRD Super Charger...?


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## Randyman... (Oct 7, 2012)

Looking fan-friggin-tastic, txbonds. Supercharged 3.4l = AWESOMENESS! 

One day I'll get around to restoring my 1987 4Runner - it's been in storage since 2001 or so - your work certainly lights some fires


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

txbonds said:


> Think Im Gonna just leave them open so they can drain. Can't see it in the picture but the underside of the fender facing the tire is still in tact and the part I cut into is over the bumper.



In reference tommy comment earlier, here is a couple of shots inside flare showing what I meant.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

And to cap off the weekend, I nearly finished up the rear bumper install. Just need to get the tag light and tag relocation done, and the hight lift bolts on. 

The rear is starting to look the business. 



The bumper holes were drilled and the extra 8 mounting bolts were installed. CBI includes these nifty bolt sticks that allow you to install a bolt way up in the frame. You can see them here. 


















Here is the rear swing that holds all the gadgets. 










Here is the hinge which is basically a large piece of steel with a hub lined with two large brass tubes. 










And a glimpse at the final product. 











Now I need to go back to focusing on the interior while I await the front bumper, and then it will be time to get that end done.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Randyman... said:


> Looking fan-friggin-tastic, txbonds. Supercharged 3.4l = AWESOMENESS!
> 
> One day I'll get around to restoring my 1987 4Runner - it's been in storage since 2001 or so - your work certainly lights some fires


Thanks. I'd love to see that 87. Those are sweet trucks. Wish mine could take its top off. 

You could probably even get an antique license plate for it.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

That rear rig is worth the notching.That is nice.Looks like it carries 10-15 gallons also?

Great job!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> That rear rig is worth the notching.That is nice.Looks like it carries 10-15 gallons also?
> 
> Great job!


Thanks man. 

I'm working with CBI regarding the spacing on the side hoops to see what the options are. I fixed the part that meets the fender flares by relieving the notch into the flare but the back of the hoop doesn't have enough clearance with the truck body. They said ship it back and build a new one but now that its all mounted and my flares are notched I'm looking to see if there is any other way before going that route, including asking if they will just build a new lower bumper piece and ship it first and then have this one picked up then, but I said they would have to make the front of the hoops the same so my flare notches still work. Will see what they come up with

The fuel holder will hold two 5gal NATO/Jerry cans. I've seen people fit them with coolers and also rotopax tanks as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Spoke with CBI today. They are going to build a new bumper for me. This was the first time putting the side protection hoops on this newer hybrid bumper and they applied in same method as their standard plate bumper. The hybrid has slightly different angles and measurements at the corners so that is why im having issues. Front of hoops will stay same since I notched the flares but rear will get pushed outward for clearance. 

Took a bunch of pictures and measurements for them. They are going to build and powder coat just a new bumper and ill reuse the swing and other hardware. They will ship it with my front bumper that they are building and this one will return on the same truck. 

Means I can keep this on there till new one arrives. Important to me so my new springs can continue settling. I'm amazed they've already dropped about an inch with the weight going on in the past day or two. They should be getting close to their settled height though.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Looks like I can lift the veil on my secret front bumper. The guy who got the first one posted pictures publicly even though it isn't officially on the company website yet. 

My front bumper is a hybrid design from CBI. Here is the first one they built: Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum - View Single Post - NateMob's "DD" Build

Mine will have full hoops, be powder coated black, and will include some limb riser tabs. They are starting on production next week I'm told and it will ship with my replacement rear bumper. 

Regards.


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## Offroader5 (Apr 8, 2011)

Have never been a fan of the "see through" open design type bumpers where you can see the skeleton, but that one is blurring the line between being a plate bumper and an open design. I think it will look better with the full hoops.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

That is a great looking bumper! I liked the Savage for the rear but I think I'm going to follow your lead and get one of these for the front. I have looked and looked for almost a year for a new front bumper, could never find one that looked, functioned right for me.

I'm jealous, your frame is in great shape. Mine is rusted pretty bad (salt). I've had to do a couple of repairs. Also curius as to how the paint holds up on your flares. Mine are so faded, and i've tried many products on them but nothing lasts.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

copperears said:


> That is a great looking bumper! I liked the Savage for the rear but I think I'm going to follow your lead and get one of these for the front. I have looked and looked for almost a year for a new front bumper, could never find one that looked, functioned right for me.
> 
> I'm jealous, your frame is in great shape. Mine is rusted pretty bad (salt). I've had to do a couple of repairs. Also curius as to how the paint holds up on your flares. Mine are so faded, and i've tried many products on them but nothing lasts.


Thanks. If you decide to order one let me know. I will let Nathan know as a referral. Not sure if it will save you any money but maybe since I've spent a few pennies with them now. 

Ill try to keep the thread updated over time. I've decided to leave them desert tan so we will see. Ill get some touch up paint from them when I get the grille painted. The one thing they told me though is they used some sort of adhesion promoter on the plastic parts like the flares and the rear tag bezel/trim piece. Maybe that is what you need on them.


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## silver6 (Nov 11, 2008)

Is this an audio build or a truck build? Who cares! That Yota is bad ass!!!!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

silver6 said:


> Is this an audio build or a truck build? Who cares! That Yota is bad ass!!!!





I'm working on interior and audio stuff this weekend. I need to put a few pieces of sound deadening and ensolite down and then I'm running wires and mounting the amp. Will update some pictures later in the weekend.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

silver6 said:


> Is this an audio build or a truck build? Who cares! That Yota is bad ass!!!!



After cleaning the roof rails, put a layer of flat black krylon rust tough paint on them. Getting them ready to reattach to the roof as these are what the roof rack attaches to. 

You can see the missing paint on the aluminum rails 








(This my official paint table. My wife wants to paint it brown so I'm just getting some primer coats on it. LOL)

Hard to see much but here is painted version drying/curing











Back working on interior tonight so that should make you happy. LOL. 


Got the amp mounted back up now that rear wall is sound deadened 









And started sound deadening the front half of the truck floor pan



















And for kicks I took a picture of the rear swing. If you look at the far right you can see how much the new suspension has dropped. I'd estimate the swing sat about a half inch or more above the table when installed.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got UBJ, LBJ and knuckles from toyota parts barn today as part of my project to refresh front end when the lift goes on











Progress for tonight included sound deadener on the front passenger side. So far, I've used just shy of 72 sq ft of stinger roadkill pro on the roof, floor and rear sides. I've not gotten to the doors so ill have to order more deadener for them. 










And I started fitting the new carpet on the wheel wells










You can see the color is a little more tan or camel colored than OEM but still blends pretty well










After a little trimming










As you can see I have more trimming to do










But this is how much I managed to get trimmed before calling it a night.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

It's been a few weeks since my last update. I'm sorry to say I haven't gotten much done due to other priorities. That said, CBI shipped my hybrid front bumper and replacement hybrid rear bumper yesterday so I'm very excited that those should be here by Friday possibly. It means I can get back on track and get the front part of my Sonoran lift installed soon. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Will report back with pictures in a week or so.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Did a few things tonight but forgot to take pics along the way. 


Alarm install guy put 3 self tapping screws through mr drivers side floor and right into the wheel well for a ground. I ended up moving the ground location to a factory ground spot and temporarily put 4 layers of aluminum tape over holes but will later epoxy them sealed. 










New ground spot under left kick panel area











Also relocated the ECT and rear window switches up to the dash in prep for my 99 console install. Had to split switches from shifter and break wiring and then retape


















And swapped in a 99 parking break handle which you can tell because it offsets to passenger side










That's all for tonight.


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## Big_Valven (Aug 20, 2008)

I love your work  Amazing results. I like someone who can see through the crud and mistreatment and whip out the elbow grease!


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## bongbut (May 15, 2012)

Great job,you ignite me with this 
I have a 08 Toyota 4runner and I don't know where to start.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks guys. 


And DUH, I forgot to attach the picture of the switches I relocated from center console up to dash.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

bongbut said:


> Great job,you ignite me with this
> I have a 08 Toyota 4runner and I don't know where to start.


Thanks. Have any pictures of your 4runner?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Big_Valven said:


> I love your work  Amazing results. I like someone who can see through the crud and mistreatment and whip out the elbow grease!


There certainly has been lots of crud in this one. LOL. 

I'm looking forward to getting it back together and into a drivable condition and hoping for years of trouble free ownership, but we will see. Always a bit of apprehension when starting with such an old vehicle I guess.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Started putting the closed cell ensolite foam down this afternoon. 









Got both sides pretty well covered









And covered under e rear seat area pretty well









Lastly I popped the sub box in place












It's gonna be a long night as next up is running cables through cab for stereo and CB radio, and then I've got to get the carpet in to get it off the garage floor as my CBI bumpers are coming tomorrow and I need a place to stick the pallets when they get here until I can get the installed. 











And for fun, ill share pictures of the other project I have going on this afternoon. Will be a long hard wait for it to get done. Pictures taken when we first put it on a few hours ago. Internal temp up to 110, so another 70 to 80 degrees to go before i pull it off. Yum.



















Also just got orders out for a few more items needed for the upgrade process including:
> Proforged inner tie rods
> toyota outer tie rods
> Koyo a1998 radiator


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Final progress report before getting tired and calling it quits for night



BBQ turned out awesome. Only our third try using the smoker. 



























Routed most of my wires. Still need to get the CB cable in but it will require some drilling for a grommet. RCA cables run down the passenger side. Held in place with strips of painters tape as it doesn't hold static. 










4gauge power wire and 4 runs of 12guage speaker wire all covered I black techflex run down the driver side











12 guage sub wiring rn across in front of back door











RCA wires cross just behind rear seat and sub wire crosses by back door











RCAs and speaker wire coiled on passenger front floor waiting to get connected in future



















Speaker wires and power cable coiled on drivers front floor awaiting future install










Where all the wires and cables meet at the amp on rear drivers side wall











Final overview of where I got to tonight. No carpet installed but I managed to get really close. One more cable to get in there for CB antenna and then it is carpet time. Deciding in cable routes and prep just took longer than I expected tonight. 










Will keep moving forward next week. Hope this log is of interest or help to someone. Thanks for looking.


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

Sub'd. Love this build.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Looky what just showed up from CBI. 


Hybrid front bumper and replacement hybrid rear bumper. Will work to get these on this week as I'm sure that's what everyone will want to see


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Some photos of the viking bag because people asked about it earlier in my thread when I mentioned ordering one. 

Empty Bag


























ARB Snatch Block










ARB tree strap in front slot and ARB Snatch Block in side slot










Masterpull 30' kinetic rope shown on my koyo radiator box for size reference to better understand next picture










Masterpull 30' kinetic rope in large slot










3/4" shackles 










Two 3/4" shackles fit n each of the two outside side pockets










Closed and loaded bag (hand for size reference)



















Overall the bag seems pretty well made. That said, the one thing I don't like is the carry handle placement as it ends up off center when the bag is stuffed which makes it awkward to carry. Having a strap on both front and back of bag with a Velcro wrap that holds me together might have been a better approach.

Size wise, I've got a reasonable level of recovery capability stuffed in here but by no means is it an over the top setup. It will take a second bag to round out my kit as I add to my list. I'm curious how the large ARB bag would compare.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Small update for project I tackled tonight to get the roof rack rails reinstalled. I too the factory roof rack off to get truck painted and put some fresh flat black paint on rails while they were off. 

Each rail is held on with 5 star head screws. In order to reveal the holes, I used a tube of urethane window sealant like you would use when installing a car windshield. It is black and comes in a caulk tube that goes in a caulk gun. It is supposed to seal well and remain more rubbery than other sealants. 


I started with a thick ring around each screw hole


















Then once I put the rail down into position I put some urethane into each hole so that the screws would carry some down into the threads and so the head would set into the urethane to try to help seal up each one. 










One of the rails after attaching and sealing










Both rails installed and sealed. If you look in the center of roof you can see where paint shop painted right over some pine tar. That's what you get with a cheapie paint job I guess. Glad it's up top where no one notices.










One of the four bolts tha slide into the factory rails tracks to hold and support the Whitson Metalworks roof rack. 













On the lighter side, I got the carpet in. :bluejump: :nod: :fro:










Tomorrow and Sunday hope to get rear bumper swapped, diff drop installed, front lift installed and front tires installed at a minimum. Hopefully more. Pics to follow.



.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Off to an early start this morning I'm deconstructing the first rear bumper so I can get the replacement mounted and this one ready to go back to CBI so it can be reworked to serve another happy customer  











Started unwrapping the new rear and the front bumpers as well.











I got the bumpers delivered on Monday, but today is the first chance I've had to unwrap them, so I'm just now getting a glimpse of my new hybrid front bumper designed just the way I wanted it. Many do I love those guys over at CBI. What an awesome job!!!!











Just an FYI before someone asks, they are powder coated black, but they have a layer of brown dust on them so thats why the color looks off. Probably picked it up during shipping or something, but a quick wipe down and they are sure purdy!!! Can't wait to get them mounted up.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Unfortunately, I find myself without anyone available to help this morning with lifting bumpers, so in the mean time I've switched gears back to the interior.

Replaced the stock brake pedal rubber cover that was braking off:



























And after only 5 months or so of waiting around, I started fitting the new carpet today:



























And after a little bit of trimming here and there, I have the drivers side pretty close:












































I watched some u-tube videos of others doing this and they took their stock carpet and placed on top of the new carpet and then cut the new one to match the old one. The consistent theme I kept reading or hearing though is that once they did this, the new one didn't fit the same. So, I decided to go the harder route of cutting mine in place. Takes more time and there really isn't any good way to start, but as you can see from the pile of scraps I just took a little bit off at a time as I worked my way around. I'm sure it's not perfect but hopefully it comes together nicely when I put the trim back on it. My plan to find the screw/bolt holes is simply to lift the carpet and look, then use a sharp item like a small screw driver to poke through to pin it down before cutting the opening. I still have to pull carpet back to finish routing the wires anyway. 

Busy weekend and more pictures to follow. 




.


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## chiragh (Aug 19, 2009)

amazing work there sir !!!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

chiragh said:


> amazing work there sir !!!


Thank you. :blush:



Little more progress.



Got the passenger side cut in











Got holes marked and cut out for the seat bracket feet











And got my first corbeau seat installed. Once I get the seat belts attached I'll be able to drive the truck again after a month or two of sitting











































And test fitting the weather tech mats. I don't think they are going to work out due to the fact that I added so much bulk under the carpet. They don't really conform to the floor right but I'll wait until I'm finished to decide for sure. I thinking ill need to go to a more heavy rubber flat type mat instead though


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Looking great!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Looking great!


Thanks!





Truck has been sitting so long the battery was dead. Only read 1.9 volts. Was able to jump the truck but the battery is toast. I was hopeful for it to last a few more months as I plan to replace with an odyssey battery.











Still need to get thy engine compartment clean and degreased











Okay, don't laugh as it looks pretty "*******" right now, but turning it around to start working on the front



















All turned around and in garage to get front lift and bumper started.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Get ready to have people see it in the drive and come to the door asking to buy it.It looks great!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another update


Got the front bumper off










Removed frame ends and the center grille











Lastly removed the tabs that hang down on Esther end and support sides of factory bumper












Once I get the hybrid bumper on ill trim the fender liner plastic flush that is still hanging down. 



.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Morning updates

Went ahead and ordered a Diehard Platinum G35 battery. Guess I need to go ahead and get my higher output alternator in the works also. Had hoped to wait a few moths on battery and alternator upgrade but I can't control when the battery is going to die. 



And started test fitting the front bumper this morning only to realize I think I'm missing a box as I don't have the turn signals or the frame rail brackets or plates needed to attach this to the front of m 97s frame. Looks good though.


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## FreeTheSound (Feb 24, 2013)

Now that looks well engineered.The 4-Runner down the street from me has a bumper/bull guard? But if you hit anything with it,being so close to the headlights and grill it would crush the headlights and grill in.Yours is designed like a champ! Plenty of clearance.

I know I asked before one other time about adding a Super Charger to it.Would you feel more justified now to add a S/C given the added weight of items total,to prepare the vehicle for serious off road duty? Or, did you calculate added weight by power output and determine it to be good to go once it sits in its finished state?

Great work!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FreeTheSound said:


> Now that looks well engineered.The 4-Runner down the street from me has a bumper/bull guard? But if you hit anything with it,being so close to the headlights and grill it would crush the headlights and grill in.Yours is designed like a champ! Plenty of clearance.
> 
> I know I asked before one other time about adding a Super Charger to it.Would you feel more justified now to add a S/C given the added weight of items total,to prepare the vehicle for serious off road duty? Or, did you calculate added weight by power output and determine it to be good to go once it sits in its finished state?
> 
> Great work!


No, the cost of the SC of around $3k, the requirement for premium gas and the fact that it doesn't spool up for added horsepower at low speed off-roading are all reasons I've not gotten too excited about it. 









Well, a productive day all around. 


Sonoran Steel diff drop installed but no pictures.



Front shocks/springs installed with new tires/wheels mounted. 



















Rear bumper swapped out. Ended up reusing my original swing arm, can carrier and spare tire mount. 











And picked up a yet to be installed new Sears Diehard Platinum P5/G35 battery


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## velomatt (May 11, 2009)

What is this?
Was it an add-on option?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

​


velomatt said:


> What is this?
> Was it an add-on option?


Yes, an add on option. It's a tab to connect a wire to that will run up to a corresponding tab on my roof rack. The wire serves as a limb riser when off-roading.


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## velomatt (May 11, 2009)

txbonds said:


> ​
> Yes, an add on option. It's a tab to connect a wire to that will run up to a corresponding tab on my roof rack. The wire serves as a limb riser when off-roading.


That's what I thought. Great add-on!!!


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Such an awesome truck. This thread has almost made me consider getting one, haha. Did you run all your audio wires while that carpet was out? And deaden? Maybe you did that a few pages back...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

ecbmxer said:


> Such an awesome truck. This thread has almost made me consider getting one, haha. Did you run all your audio wires while that carpet was out? And deaden? Maybe you did that a few pages back...


 Yes check a few pages back.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

In for the long haul.
Love Love LOVE the bumpers!
Can't wait to see it all completed. :thumbsup:
Reading through what you've done so far has given me some great ideas for the 95 4Runner I just bought with only 137K miles on it for $3k in Phoenix. 
It's the 3.0L V6 with a 5-speed manual.
It was supposed to be a 18th birthday gift for my daughter but I may have to find an old Civic for her instead. 







Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Cool. Nice Gen2 runner. Would make a nice home for some retro audio gear. 




PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> In for the long haul.
> Love Love LOVE the bumpers!
> Can't wait to see it all completed. :thumbsup:
> Reading through what you've done so far has given me some great ideas for the 95 4Runner I just bought with only 137K miles on it for $3k in Phoenix.
> ...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Aright, all you car audio nuts should like this one. Just scored a lightly used high output alternator to replace my 70amp stock unit with. Should have it next week.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Drove the truck a little today. Snapped a picture of it while out. No front bumper yet. Surprised to see I've only put 250 miles on it in 5 months now.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Last night I started working on applying the rear seat covers I got off eBay from a seller named iggee

Starting with something like this










And ending as something like this











I'm going to paint the plastic parts on the seat backs with some black fusion paint before covering them but I will update with more pics when those covers go on as well as when the seats are installed.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Spoiler alert


My 4runner is out today getting the new Koyo radiator, the new B&M 70264 trans cooler and the new NGK plug wires installed. 

I ended up asking them to install the trans cooler with it bypassing the radiator all together, and to put a piece of tube on the radiator trans cooler in/out just to seal it up. Also asked them to mount the cooler using the supplied zip tie mounts but I'm planning to go back after the fact and change it to meal strap mounts. 

Next up is my lower ball joints and a quick alignment until I can get the rest of my front end pieces installed, then I'll need a new alignment. 

Lastly I got word that my front bumper turn signals and mounting plates were in route, so I'm trying to get the above done so the runner can make the journey up to my Dad's place for some welding (rock sliders and bumper mounts). 

Pictures to follow tonight.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Here are some update pics



B&M 70264 mounted on front of condenser with in/out facing up











New transmission lines












New trans hose pass through lined with piece of scrap hose












Hose connecting in/out on new radiator to prevent coolant leak out












New Koyo radiator and new hoses. Old clamps reused.




















New upper radiator hose, new radiator cap and new NGK plug wires




















New diehard platinum G35 battery installed last week












Old original stock alternator












New to me Mechman high output alternator received today and ready to go in


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## ALan Z (Oct 9, 2013)

Just read through your build thread here, looks great. Keep up the good work! Question, Have you been able to drive this much since putting on the meaty tires? I ask because I'm starting a build on my truck which has toyo m/t's and I'm wondering about the amount of sound deadener you've used. Do you think you've used enough or would you suggest using more to lessen hwy road noise? I'm at 84 db's on the hwy know and it's bugging the crap out of me. 

Thanx!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I've only driven it twice with new tires and it's only been around town at 50mph and under and they are loud as crap. That said, with the windows up I can still have a phone conversation and can talk comfortably with another person, but they are very loud. 

They are loud enough that I can't hear other sounds like engine noises easily. I've had these in the past though so I knew what to expect. The sound deadener certainly helped and will get better when I put the interior panels back in and when I deaden the doors.


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## ALan Z (Oct 9, 2013)

Good to know. I looked over the fact you didn't do the doors yet.


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## scmoul (Aug 30, 2009)

This is a great thread, I fixed up a '00 4runner and know how much work it is. Keep up the good work!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Ordered replacement front and rear sway bar bushings, a fuel filter and a replacement transmission dipstick since mine is bent. Also ordered some Heavy Duty front Sway bar links.


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## Baller Status (Feb 6, 2011)

Wow awesome build. Great work and really impressed with the look the bumpers give the runner. Keep it up man. Tuned in!


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## .69077 (Aug 24, 2013)

I love builds like this, something just about all of us can relate to. The first timing belt job I ever did was a 97 6cyl 4Runner.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

Txbonds,

Your build looks great, and it'll be better than new with all the quality parts you have installed.

I am working towards taking out my headliner and can't figure out how to get the rear ceiling light out at the back liftgate. Any tips would be appreciated, as the plastic is brittle and I'm worried something is going to snap.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Wonderful to see an older vehicle being not only revamped, but improved.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks for all the compliments guys. 







copperears said:


> Txbonds,
> 
> Your build looks great, and it'll be better than new with all the quality parts you have installed.
> 
> I am working towards taking out my headliner and can't figure out how to get the rear ceiling light out at the back liftgate. Any tips would be appreciated, as the plastic is brittle and I'm worried something is going to snap.



On the rear light, I don't have it in front of me but memory says there was a few screws holding it in place. Did you look to see if there were any other hidden or hard to see screws? Seems like maybe I had trouble too but found one last screw hiding up in there that held it in.


----------



## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

> On the rear light, I don't have it in front of me but memory says there was a few screws holding it in place. Did you look to see if there were any other hidden or hard to see screws? Seems like maybe I had trouble too but found one last screw hiding up in there that held it in.


Thanks, I'll look again for the screws. I was just prying, thinking it would pop out but it just didn't want to go. Keep up the good work.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

my4FS



Just a little update on what I've been doing. Not much real progress made but a little forward movement. 



These are the new to me rear seats I picked up on ebay earlier in my build thread. They were from a 99 runner. When I decided to change to aftermarket black seats in front, I decided to recover these to match. I ordered the covers on ebay from a vendor named iggee. They appear to be pretty good quality for cheaper vinyl covers. I also decided to not have the rear carpet go up on the seat backs as it did when stock. This is because the heavy rubber backing I had applied to the carpet doesn't make it flexible enough to properly attach. So my solution is to rivet a piece of marine board (starboard) to the back. Here you can see me test fitting one of the pieces before putting the black covers on









This will protect the vinyl and add rigidity when carrying gear with seats down. 



Also have been collecting up some parts for the front end. 










In the picture are a new set of Aisin hubs, a set of heavy duty cast sway bar links, energy steering rack bushings from Wheelers, and a temporary set of 555 upper ball joints. I'm calling the UBJ temporary because once I collect up the remaining parts for manual hub conversion, I will be using the new knuckles With new Toyota UBJ all ready installed.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Little work on back seats today. 



From this:



























To today doing this:












































































To ready to install as this:



















Basically, these are decent condition rear seats from a 99 4runner, that have been covered with some black vinyl ebay seat covers from a seller named iggee and I attached a thin piece of marine plastic lumber to the back via aluminum rivets to allow gear to sit on them when folded down. 

Will be working to get the new carpet further trimmed and these and the matching seat bottoms bolted in later today.


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## fireball (Oct 20, 2009)

Nice work! My wife's DD is a '994R, highlander package, 32" BFGs and Stubbs sliders. Will be looking forward to seeing photos of the front CBI mounted up. Will they do any type of front hoop you want? I really like the Shrockworks front hoop, fits two 6" driving lights very nicely, and follows the lines of the vehicle.

Also, how did they cut the box for the sub? Did you provide a template of some sort or did the shop do everything?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

fireball said:


> Nice work! My wife's DD is a '994R, highlander package, 32" BFGs and Stubbs sliders. Will be looking forward to seeing photos of the front CBI mounted up. Will they do any type of front hoop you want? I really like the Shrockworks front hoop, fits two 6" driving lights very nicely, and follows the lines of the vehicle.
> 
> Also, how did they cut the box for the sub? Did you provide a template of some sort or did the shop do everything?


Thanks. 

CBI is a custom shop so they will do what you want if they can. I sent drawings and pictures of the hoop style I wanted and they went by that to design mine. 

On the sub the shop measure the opening and had a computer controlled router do the work. They kept the cut pattern in their computer so they might be able to make another if you have the same opening.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Trimmed a little more carpet today and cut the seat back carpet flaps off









Resulting pieces almost look like floor mats









Seat backs bolted in

























Had to trim the side a little to clear the latch



















Was all set to bolt the seat bases in and realized I never went back and covered one of my speaker wires with techflex, so I'm going to get some more ordered and cover that wire like the others before bolting the bases in.


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## spoonsports86 (Nov 17, 2012)

wow great work i have always wanted a 4runner


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Finally have all the parts needed to do my manual hub conversion, then I can focus on getting the CBI Hybrid front bumper plates welded on and my Stubbs sliders welded on. 

It's a little progress even though it's slow. 


Toyota remanufactured cv axles










































I've debated whether or not I should go ahead and put in new control arms or at least try to swap bushings as everything else up front suspension wise will be new at this point. Not sure what to do though. 

I can layout a parts group picture of what all is going into the manual conversion if anyone is interested. If you are not buying an already assembled used setup, it's surprisingly a lot of parts required.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

No one asked yet but I was curious so here is a picture of all parts that go into the manual hub conversion when you collect this up piece by piece. Only thing not pictured are the 4 bolts that hold the dust shield on, but I'll have them Saturday. Enjoy!


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Sweet! This truck is really coming along. If I ever decide to get back into a truck/SUV one of these gen 4runners is probably top of my list. Awesome that you used to have a disco as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

ecbmxer said:


> Sweet! This truck is really coming along. If I ever decide to get back into a truck/SUV one of these gen 4runners is probably top of my list. Awesome that you used to have a disco as well.


Thanks. 






Well rats. Just realized the threads on the new hubs are all buggered up from shipping on both hubs. Contacted Camelback Toyota with pictures and am awaiting instructions to get replacements as they are filing a FedEx claim I think. Means more waiting on my end though. 

May be fixable with a little file work but will see if they replace with another first. Since they are brand new I hate to have to fix them if they can be replaced.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Working on seat brackets again today. Had to pull them out if car to attach the seat belt buckle brackets. The old foot tabs need to have some work with a wire brush and then everything repainted and bolted back together again.

Drilling Holes in brackets




















Drilling corresponding holes in seat bracket plates




















And a mock up of how they fit





























.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Replaced the 4 bushings in the auto transmission shifter tonight and man was it a pain in the rear. I couldn't find any detailed instructions on the net so I tried to snap a few pictures for the next guy but it's hard to capture much detail. 

Here are the bushings from Toyota










Obviously you have to start by removing the console over this area. Mine was already off. Then remove the transfer case shifter knob and boot by removing the set screw in the side. 










You will have to detach the rubber seal underneath the front area of the shifter plate. This will allow you access to the front pivot bolt that holds 2 of the bushings. 










Here is what bushings looked like after 16 years of wear. Just blue powder and broken pieces left. 


















Here you can see one of the new bushings pushed into place. They are very thin plastic and easy to press in by hand. 










Once the front bolt is put back in and tightened down, you can reattach the rubber boot/grommet under it and then move on to the rear pivot bolt. For the rear one, I had to detach the shifter cover and some of the pieces to get the bolt out. 










It's bushing was toast also. 










And with new bushing pushed into place










Not much to see but all buttoned back up and the shifter all nice and snug again.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

Those shifter pictures look familiar, as I just got done changing my transmission. It had the dreaded pink milkshake when I bought it. Tried flushing it many times, but the antifreeze just wrecks the friction plates and constantly plugs the filter screen. After a year and 3 trans. filter changes, I finally gave in and did the swap. I had big trouble with the trans tunnel bolts, broke 3 of them out of about 10. There was so much butyl sound deadener everywhere I didn't dare to use the torches to heat the bolts.

Interesting about the shifter bushings, I did notice some play in mine, as the odo. just turned 230,000 miles. They didn't get changed, and now seeing yours, I should have done it while it was apart.

I have been looking at a 97 Tacoma front end in the local junkyard, for the front end parts to do the hub conversion. They just want too much for everything, so I am still searching. If I didn't spend so much on the new sub & amps, I'd have enough to do it, ha ha. Although I'm having second thoughts about the size of the enclosure. It ate my whole back passenger seat area. After I took out the back seats & built a platform to have an area for amps & to make it flat and usable.

I commend you for your thorough restoration, you should get many years of reliable fun out of your rig.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

Those pics of the shifter are familiar, as I just got done swapping in a new transmission. It had the dreaded pink milkshake when I bought it. After a year and 3 trans. filters & lots of Dexron, I finally broke down and changed it. The antifreeze dissolves the friction plates and creates this glue like film on the filter screen. Broke 3 out of about 10 bolts on the trans. tunnel cover. I had so much sound deadener everywhere, I didn't dare to use the torches to free them up.

I did notice some play in the shifter, as the odo. just turned 230,000 miles. Probably should have changed those bushings while it was apart, as it is tricky with all the little pieces & parts.

I have been looking at a 97 Tacoma in the local junkyard. It has all the parts I would need for the hub conversion. They want too much for everything unfortunately. If I hadn't spent so much on a new sub & amps, I would probably have enough to do it, ha ha. Although, having second thoughts about it as the enclosure I built for it is huge. It ate the whole back passenger seat area! Have the back seats removed, and a platform built to have a place for amps, etc..

I commend your thorough restoration. You should get many reliable years of fun out of your rig.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks. 

Not sure what your local yard wanted but there was a set of used front knuckles and cv axles on ebay for $600 and you could probably offer less but no clue what the condition of the parts or the hubs will be. 





copperears said:


> Those pics of the shifter are familiar, as I just got done swapping in a new transmission. It had the dreaded pink milkshake when I bought it. After a year and 3 trans. filters & lots of Dexron, I finally broke down and changed it. The antifreeze dissolves the friction plates and creates this glue like film on the filter screen. Broke 3 out of about 10 bolts on the trans. tunnel cover. I had so much sound deadener everywhere, I didn't dare to use the torches to free them up.
> 
> I did notice some play in the shifter, as the odo. just turned 230,000 miles. Probably should have changed those bushings while it was apart, as it is tricky with all the little pieces & parts.
> 
> ...


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Techflex braiding put on final speaker wire and now the rear seats are in. The covers are not too terribly bad and match the Corbeau seats pretty well although the bottom cover wrinkles up a bit in the front. 































.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

> I've debated whether or not I should go ahead and put in new control arms or at least try to swap bushings as everything else up front suspension wise will be new at this point. Not sure what to do though.


I had to replace a bushing on the passenger side, not fun! With the rust and it just being in there for 16+ years, it came out hard with the press. I thought I had a brake problem at first, as it would pull to one side under hard braking.






> Not sure what your local yard wanted but there was a set of used front knuckles and cv axles on ebay for $600 and you could probably offer less but no clue what the condition of the parts or the hubs will be.


Thanks for the tip, it is about the same price as down the street. I think I have a good set of hubs, if the spline are the same. Extra money is going into new rear springs. With a 150 pound sub, 90 pound bumper and about 400 pounds of tools, I'm almost on the bump stops! Also need new tires for winter. If I'm good maybe Santa will bring me another Soundstream amp for Christmas.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

copperears said:


> I had to replace a bushing on the passenger side, not fun! With the rust and it just being in there for 16+ years, it came out hard with the press. I thought I had a brake problem at first, as it would pull to one side under hard braking.


I guess at this point I'm going to hold off and see how they look and act once the manual hubs go in. Hate to think about having to strip it back down to put them in later but also hate the cost of replacing them all just because. Would run about $800 for all new toyota upper/lower control arms with new cam bolts. 

Camelback sent me new manual hubs (spindles) to replace the messed up ones. Now I just need to get them pressed together or buy a press and try it myself.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Picked up some trinkets today at 4 wheel Parts while heading home from a trip. I think they accessorize the runner nicely.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving week last week. Just a small update.

I picked up a Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press with plans to do my own bearing and hub pressing for my manual hub conversion. Toyota quoted me minimum of 2.5 hours labor and I couldn't find a shop in the area that someone I know recommends. Will post pictures of the process when I get it setup and do the work. 









20 Ton Shop Press - Hydraulic Shop Presses on Sale


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

txbonds said:


> Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving week last week. Just a small update.
> 
> I picked up a Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press with plans to do my own bearing and hub pressing for my manual hub conversion. Toyota quoted me minimum of 2.5 hours labor and I couldn't find a shop in the area that someone I know recommends. Will post pictures of the process when I get it setup and do the work.
> 
> ...


F*&k I need one of those.
You don't realize how much you need a press until you just need one. 


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

A little scrap steel, a welder and a bottle jack and you could make your own. LOL






PPI-ART COLLECTOR said:


> F*&k I need one of those.
> You don't realize how much you need a press until you just need one.
> 
> 
> ...


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

txbonds said:


> A little scrap steel, a welder and a bottle jack and you could make your own. LOL


Sadly, I don't weld.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Also picked up a big azz socket to remove the axle nut


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I tackled two pain in the arse projecs tonight. 

First I replaced the automatic transmission dipstick. Mine was bent from years of being forced into place. I ordered a new one from Toyota and while it is in boy is that a pain in the rump to get these things seated. Certainly an art form that gets easier with repeated practice. Here is the old one. 










Second, a I replaced the PCV valve and grommet with original toyota parts. Install was a breeze even in spite of the limited hand space but removal of old parts sucked the big one. 

First disconnected the hose









Then removed old valve. Best way I found was a really large flat head screw driver. Insert blade under the bottom of valve and rotate screw driver handle. Work your way around the base slowly lifting the old valve out of the grommet. I reached in through here with the screw driver









View before removal









Removed the bottom was filthy with oily sludge.









Old next to new









I don't have good pictures but I managed to get the grommet out using a knife and needle nose pliers. It was so old and brittle there was no pulling it out. I used a knife blade to slice through the grommet on two sides. Then with the needle nose I pulled it out. The whole thing fell into the hole but I was able to pull the pieces out one at a time. My advice is don't wait 187k miles to change these. LOL









It's hard to see but there was a lot of junk inside the hole. I used a vacuum with a small attachment to suck as much loose material out as possible and then used a flat head screw driver to scrape the rest that I could reach out or loose to vacuum out. This was after a little cleaning. 









Installed the new grommet by simply pressing it in









Installed the new PCV valve by pressing into place while turning back and forth









Reconnected the hose and DONE











Providing the encouragement to attempt these projects............ One Grey Goose Martini.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

ohh subed this now! a man who knows a decent drop!!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

sydmonster said:


> ohh subed this now! a man who knows a decent drop!!


LOL. 

I prefer Double Cross to Grey Goose but can't ever find it available here. Usually only find it in major cities.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

i like GG at room temp!... yeah i know.

keep up the good work on this ride.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

FINALLY. I KNOW SOME OF YOU HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR ME TO DO THIS FOREVER !!! 




*SLIDER INSTALL*

Disconnected battery










Rigging up the old Lincoln Arc Welder using the 40 amp heat breaker










Laying them out










Clamping the sliders in place in prep of welding










Dad welding sliders to the frame


















Hard to see but used a sheet of lex an between the frame and gas tank to provide a little heat and spark barrier for the two rear drivers side tabs that lay alongside the gas tank










Here you can sort of see the heat burns on the lexan. Is leaning against my prime red roof rack. 










finished product





















*FRONT BUMPER*
Started raining before we could get to the front bumper so we are tackling that first thing in the morning. 





*PRESSING BEARINGS AND HUBS*
Since it was raining, we started working in the garage on pressing the front herrings and hubs. 

Pressing the bearing on Harbor Freight 20 ton press. Used steel plate on top and hitch draw bar below for support










Flat plate only gets it flush. Bearing needs to go further in to seat.










For final 1/4 inch or so of pressing we used two floor flanges. A 1" flange ground down just enough to fit in the knuckle and a 3/4" above it for extra spacer. Worked great.


















Bearing pressed all the way in with large retainer ring snapped in place










Dust shield bolted in place with Toyota hardware. Torque to 13 ft lbs per the service manual. 










Setting up to press the hub/spindle through the bearing










Pressing the hub in. Used another hitch draw bar above the hub to press on










Hubs pressed in













.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

*CONTINUED*


Dropped in the ABS ring










Threaded on the hub nut/ring













All set to torque to 200 ft lbs but I need to pick up a heavier torque wrench as mine only goes to 100.













More to follow tomorrow. 






.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

A little more progress today


*TRIMMING WHEEL WELL LINER*

The CBI hybrid is so high and tight on the ends that you have to trim a bunch of the factory wheel well liner out of the way.










After trimming you can see where I decided to cut the liner here










Didn't make just one cut. Did multiple smaller trims before I decided how far to take it.











*FRONT BUMPER*

Test fitting the bumper to get everything aligned for fab and welding


















Ground down the sides of the factory plate on the front of the frame rails










Getting ready to weld on the side tabs on the custom brackets that the bumper will bolt to










Setting plate on frame to tack weld the second side plate in place. Then it gets pulled off and the side tab fully welded on.










Dad welding newly fabbed bracket to the frame










One of the welds..... And His words, not mine....... "Not pretty, but solid"











After getting both plate brackets welded to the frame, I remounted bumper and marked the mounting holes to be drilled into the bracket. Unfortunately I broke a handful of my Milwaukee drill bits trying to drill the holes large enough. Nearly broke my wrist when the first bit snagged and then broke. Was drilling with a Milwaukee heavy duty 1/2" electric drill and that puppy spins with some hearty torque.

Had to stop at this point to go get a new box of drill bits and will finish it up tonight or tomorrow. Then will need to prime and paint all of the welds and new brackets. Will post up completion pictures in a few days when I get that done but overall I'm really thrilled with how everything is coming together.

BIG THANK YOU SHOUT TO MY DAD FOR HELPING THIS WEEKEND!!!!!!!! LOVE YOU POP............


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Finished drilling holes for bu,per mount. All Welds cleaned of slag and brushed with wire brush and then painted with Krylon Rust Tuff primer































Then coated everything with Semi Flat Rust Tuff Krylon


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Little more progress tonight


Got the front CBI hybrid bumper mounted but still need to do another couple of items. Since my bumper was designed around a 1999 - 2002 stle frame rail, CBI had to send me some custom cut plate steel to make brackets to adapt the bumper to my 1996 - 1998 frame rail style. This is what was being welded on a few posts back.

Well, I discovered that the plate thickness causes the 4 side bolt holes to be slightly off center as the plate pushes the bumper forward just slightly. The most forward two bolts fit with a little effort but the rear ones are a no go. In order to make them fit I needed to enlarge the holes a little more.

I started this with my dremel before mounting the bumper but didn't enlarge them enough. I will have to go back tomorrow and do a little more grinding and then put a little paint over the holes. The bumper is probably fine without them but I want the extra support.

Some pictures:



















































































Used 7/16 x 1.5" grade 8 hardware on the front 6 mount holes.










Comes close to the AC/Heat tube that runs in front of the radiator and condenser 










Test fitting the Warn Zeon 10 winch. Fits great but the bolt holes are just slightly off on the bumper for the Zeon so I will need to slightly enlarge them to get it bolted in. 





























So next sessions plans are to enlarge winch bolt holes, enlarge two side mount holes and apply some paint to seal the metal. Then I'm also considering possibly drilling a 4th bolt hole for each front mount plate since there is room. 



.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Tonight I started working on the dash a little. The truck had some wood added beyond the standard limited wood trim. Over the years the clear coat had bubbled and become yellowed in spots. It delaminated in many areas too. I thought it to be real wood but it turns out to be plastic like the factory wood. Anyway, I sourced a matching replacement kit through Burtman Industries, you can find info earlier in the build thread. 

So, here is the scoop:

BEFORE









SIDE BY SIDE









AFTER













Here is the basic process (DONT FOLLOW THIS METHOD UNLESS YOU ARE REPLACING WITH NEW PANELS)

You heat the panel with a hair dryer or heat gun. I'm using a heat gun but you have to be careful not to melt something. I'm using it on low. Anyway once warm the panel becomes pliable. Using a small flat head screwdriver start to separate the panel from the dash









Work your way around until the old panel pulls off









This is what is left behind. 3M Adhesive. 









You get the adhesive off by heating it and slowly rolling it off the surface with a flat item like a screw driver blade









Next up is to clean as much remaining bits of adhesive off as possible. I used some goo gone and a dry rag. This is the passenger side but gives an idea of about how clean I got them. 









Here is the finished passenger side. Drivers side shown above











Started working on the pieces surrounding the steering column but had to stop to go watch Gold Rush. 


























And here is why I say don't use my method if you are not recovering it with new trim. It eats up the underlying finish getting the old 3m adhesive off.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Did some work on the center console piece. Needed a new cup holder, new clock and a new vent in addition to 3 pieces of replacement wood trim

BEFORE









AFTER










The after picture has the new vent in the center, a new to me used clock (hope it works), and the 3 new wood panels including one on a brand new pull out cup holder. 




Also finished up the trim around the steering column. Looks a little rough and needs some clean up overall but looks better than the old wood did by far. 










Got this side a little too high but think it will look okay once area around it is cleaned up a little.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

you serious??... so just a little bit of work done then?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

sydmonster said:


> you serious??... so just a little bit of work done then?


Hahaha. Doesn't seem like much progress to me though. 



Looks like I finally have all the parts needed and wanted to start on my front end refresh and manual hub conversion. Will post pictures as I go and hope to get started in the next few days. Only thing that will be hit or miss is whether or not I run into any bolts that need replacement as I plan to reuse my cam bolts and UCA bolt. 

Also got the correct bracket for my center console so I will be getting it mounted and the front seats in place in the next few days as well. 

(FYI - before anyone points it out Some parts not shown)










Hope everyone had a nice holiday and wish everyone a happy new year.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Little more progress this afternoon with some good news and some bad news. 


I tackled replacing the wood trim on this section of the console










You can see how faded it was above but you can see the yellowing in this picture


















Leaves you with old 3m adhesive to get off










Little more adhesive removed with combinations of heat gun, razor blade and flat blade screw driver










Most goop removed










Heating up trim to make it moldable










First piece applied










Heating second piece










Both halves applied


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Moving on


Never could get this bent into shape so I Replaced the 97 console bracket










With a 99 console bracket. Still required a little bending but works like a charm










The tab on the plastic rear vent was broken so I glued it back with some crazy glue and banded it to the bracket with 4 rubber bands for support










Next I reassembled the upper portion of the floor console sides and installed the new console top with the new wood trim applied


















Got the new hi/LO shifter and boot installed to replace the dog chew toy. 










Then bolted the 99 console in place. I have cup holders. Awesome. 










And the bad news........... I cut the carpet too short on the drivers side of the console and on the rear of the console. 










Next up is the front seat brackets so I can get front seats installed. 


.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Because of some rust and because I added some brackets to hold the seat belt buckles I had to repaint the seat brackets. 


Did some wire brushing on the seat brackets and repainted with primer










Then put on another coat of flat black










Once dry and cured should be ready to bolt front seats and seat belts in place


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Seat bracket with seat belt latch bracket in place










Bolted the factory seat belt latch onto the new seat bracket










After multiple paintings I managed to scratch off paint getting the seat bolted onto the bracket. Grrrrrr........










Had to trim a small piece out of the console side to allow room for the bolt holding the seat belt latch to the bracket. Not visible once seat is in place. 


























And lastly the seat bolted in place. I think it turned out nicely. Only thing I need to change is the bolt holding the seat belt latch to the bracket needs to be a rounded head bolt because it rubs the seat side when the seat is pushed all the way back. A rounded head should help the vinyl last longer with seat movement. 










Just need to route my cb antenna wire down the passenger side under the carpet and I can get the passenger seat bolted in the same way. 



.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Replaced the bolts with hex socket button cap bolts. Same size so nylock nuts still fit.










Rounded head bolt installed










View down from seat


















Factory seatbelt works now


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## JI808 (Nov 20, 2013)

txbonds said:


> Had to trim a small piece out of the console side to allow room for the bolt holding the seat belt latch to the bracket. Not visible once seat is in place.


Any reason you couldn't put the head of the bolt towards the console


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

JI808 said:


> Any reason you couldn't put the head of the bolt towards the console


Yes, the same reason I had to get the rounded head bolts. If the nut and screw threads were on the seat side they would dig into the seat vinyl worse than the bolt head. Just not enough clearance. In hind sight The best solution would have been a different bracket but I made this one work.


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## JI808 (Nov 20, 2013)

txbonds said:


> Yes, the same reason I had to get the rounded head bolts. If the nut and screw threads were on the seat side they would dig into the seat vinyl worse than the bolt head. Just not enough clearance. In hind sight The best solution would have been a different bracket but I made this one work.


Makes sense. I guess it was pictures, but it looked like everything cleared the seat bolster. Didn't realize the bolts were that high.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Did a little work today. 

Cut the connector off the factory turn signal wire










Prepping the pigtail for the new LED turn signals that CBI supplied with my front bumper










Preparing to solder


















Little silver solder to secure the connection










Painted the solder with a little liquid electrical tape










Somehow didn't get a picture but I put heat shrink on each wire and sealed the ends with liquid electrical tape and then put a larger heat shrink over that










Then covered that with some techflex since this wire is pretty exposed. You can see I still need to enlarge the one bumper mount hole to get the bolt in there. 










Light mount trim in the hole










Light plugged in










Lastly light pressed in place


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Also tackled a couple of other items

Opened the swing out on my CBI rear bumper










Drilled a hole right behind the spare tire mount and hit it with a black paint pen










Inserted a bolt and tightened it down with washers, lock washer and nut










Inserted this larger red plastic block and then fixed in place with washer, rubber washer and wing nut for easy removal










Now I have a nice storage location with easy access for my hi lift base










View with rear swing closed to show how close it comes but there is plenty of clearance


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Lastly I started on my CB antenna mounting and wiring. 

I have 3 locations for mount on rear swing, on right side of rear bumper and right side of front bumper. I decided the right rear tab that I paid extra to have put on the bumper actually sticks out to far for comfort. 

I decided to start off trying the one on the rear tire swing










Hard to see it but i ran the antenna cable along the bottom of the tire swing


















Found a grommet inside the passenger rear panel behind the CBI bumper
















Still need to route the wire to the front to complete the install. 



Also finally got my tag relocated from the door to the tire swing so that it isn't blocked by the spare tire. Below the can carrier and just above the hi lift is a spot with two pre drilled holes










Using some stainless bolts, washers and lock nuts










I mounted the tag. Ironic it has CBI in it isn't it.......... LOL.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Did some work again today. 

Antenna tab on CBI swing arm. Used rat tail file to remove powder coat inside hole










Used sanding drum on drill to remove powdercoat below hole for proper ground plane










Got CB mounting stud tightened in place










Tested ground continuity between mount and frame. Looks good. 


























Got spring and quick disconnect mounted










Then touched up with some black paint pen under the mount










Drilled a hole in side of interior rear wall to bring antenna wire into truck










Routed over fender towards front










Under the passenger front seat and across RCA cables










Ends at front console


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Next up was passenger seat install


Corbeau Sport Seat in black Vinyl with corbeau sliders attached. Used grade 8 bolts through sliders to attach to seat brackets. Used washer between slider and bracket to allow space for movement










Bracket loosely bolted on and ready to go into truck










Passenger seat bolted in and ready to go. 






































That is all. Carry on. 



.


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## Redakuma (Jul 20, 2012)

learned something new today Liquid electrical tape , THANKS !!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Redakuma said:


> learned something new today Liquid electrical tape , THANKS !!


It's pretty cool. Sort of like plasti dip I guess. Got it at Lowes or Home Depot. Makes a nice way to seal up 12v wiring in lieu of self sealing shrink wrap.


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## SouthSyde (Dec 25, 2006)

looks sweeeet man!


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## Andys2000 (Apr 10, 2009)

This kind of build log is infinitely more interesting to me than the new car system build logs. Great read.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Didn't do much this weekend but did do a few things. 

New Toyota wiper blades all around, and a new arm in the rear since the spring on the old one was shot 


















Got the rear view mirror and sunroof control panels mounted after getting the alarm remote antenna mounted inside the front windshield










Started working on how to mount my Raingler cargo barrier. I've got some ideas but need to get some hardware for the upper and middle mounts as there aren't many options on where to attach brackets on the roof line.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

this car just keeps on trucking! great work... but shame about the carpet. I know that feeling.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

sydmonster said:


> this car just keeps on trucking! great work... but shame about the carpet. I know that feeling.


Thanks mate. Not much I can do about the carpet but have been trying to think of ideas on how I could hide it. I've been thinking some sort of side mounted storage device might be a nice way to hide it. We will see.


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## spoonsports86 (Nov 17, 2012)

man your build is awesome cant wait to see it done 
and one day ill have my 4runner or tacoma


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

cdrewferd said:


> Wow. The level of work you've put into this build is amazing. Can't wait to see pictures of it in the dirt and on the trails.


Thank you





Changed up my game plan on where I'm planning to attempt mounting the Uniden Bearcat 880 CB. This space under the ashtray used to be full I thought. Then I realized it was the old stereo amp and antenna relay. Once removed it looks promising with a little work










Space in trim panel that would be cut to fit










Here is approximately where it would sit. 










Looks like I will need to heat and press the bottom corner of the AC vent you can see above in white. This will allow the radio to go in just a tad bit further. I have an alternate plan for the other half of the double din opening as a place to mount light switches.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Getting ready for electrical work, I've started collecting some parts. picked up these initial items so far:

BLUESEA 12 Position combo ground/fuse block for adding accessories wiring and CONTURA 3 position switch panel - to fit into dash on left side of steering wheel in place of some of the factory switch spots. Will hold switches for front bumper lights and winch power. Planning to use the custom laser etched carling switches. 










WARN power interrupt kit to kill winch power when not in use


















CRIMPER - picked up a 16 ton hydraulic crimper like this one 










2 Gauge Cable - picked up a bunch of cable to do new battery/engine wiring, dual battery setup and winch install. Cable is like that in the link. 
100&apos; ft 2 AWG Excelene Welding Battery Cable 50&apos; Red 50&apos; Black USA New | eBay


Am also working on a solution to put 6 more switches into dash to control roof lighting, compressor, etc. Just hopeful the audio can tie into the same block without any noise issues but we will see. lots of fun figuring out all the wiring.


Here is the style switch I'm going to use. I'm starting out with 3 of them for winch power, fog lights and off road lights and they will go in the panel on left of steering wheel.


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## Mathematics2 (May 29, 2012)

My normal morning 15 minute coffee break turned into about 30 minutes reading through this thread. Really nice work. I bought a 92 YJ jeep this past summer and ended up doing alot of the same type of work to get it clean & reliable (no sound deadening of course)... gotta love someones junk being turned into somebody else's treasure. Keep it up!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Working on front end parts this weekend. 



Preparing for surgery










Removing new toyota upper ball joints that came on the free knuckles










You'll notice Toyota installs the ball joint before painting the knuckle as the wire and clip have black paint on them still. The little black debris everywhere is tiny paint flecks. 










Grease scooped out and put into boot to try to salvage it since it's a new and unused ball joint










Pressing out with two jaw 7 ton sears puller, 36mm impact socket and an old bolt. The socket presses on the ball joint base socket rather than the ball joint bolt itself. The small bolt in the socket is so there is something to push on so the puller thread doesn't just go into the socket. The bolt doesn't contact the ball joint stud inside. 










Couldn't get enough leverage to turn the puller thread so I had to move the knuckle to the vise to hold it










Took a little effort and some moving the puller around to get it pressed out but finally got it without damage to the ball joint. 










Tried to reverse the process to push the light racing adapter back into place. Got it part way but had to resort to my 20 ton press to finish. Probably more to do with the fact that it's hard to keep the alignment straight on the 7 ton puller than anything to do with power










Moved to the larger press but couldn't get pics. Was a one man show and it was all I could do to hold the knuckle up and in place and do the pressing all at the same time. Really need another set of hands for this because the shape of the knuckle makes it difficult to get and hold in position. 










Got the light racing adapter pressed in but scraped the inside edge pretty bad when it popped into place as it hit the plate on the press that I was using as the backing to press against. This happened after it passed through the knuckle so there is no damage to the knuckle itself. Hard to explain but needless to say there is very little space to work with here. Will get this cleaned up a little. Given the location it shouldn't hurt anything in use. 










Light racing ball joint adapter pressed into place.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got the rash cleaned up and the snap ring put in place but man was the snap ring a bear. This whole side has been a pain in the arse. 











Other side pushed the ball joint out easily and the light racing adapter went in much easier as I used a little bit of axle grease on it before pushing in with the sears 7 ton puller. Cleaned up the grease and the snap ring went on like a breeze also












Unfortunately it has taken me all day just to get this process done. LOL


One time saving trick:
To get the large snap ring on by yourself, use a set of vise grips and hold down one end. Then work your way around with a large pair of needle nose pliers. I used right angle needle nose and it did the trick. Wasted an hour trying to get the first one on before coming up with this approach. Second one took 3 minutes.


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Great build thread, tough looking truck! My bro had a 96 4runner for years, great vehicle. I dig the paint job also, I would like a color like that for my Landcruiser, unless it completely rusts out. Curious to see how the CB radio works for you also, I run a VHF radio in my truck, nice to have when you are off the beaten path.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Another task where I could use a better way and another set of hands. Went to tighten the hub/spindle nut down to 203 ft lbs and I'm not sure I can get it there without getting someone to help me hold it. 


Started off by putting 3 lug nuts on











Set the torque wrench to 203











Slid the lug nuts down overlapping the leg to my 20 ton press











Put the special tool onto the torque wrench and inserted the pins into the hub nut. 













While I'm probably getting close to the 203 ft lbs, I can't get enough pull pressure on the torque wrench while also applying enough downward pressure onto the knuckle to keep it from rotating up and off the press leg. Will have to pause until I can get a helper later.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Probably the easiest mod I've done so far. I installed a grab handle on the drivers side that I picked up used here on the forum. 


You can sort of see little circles in the material. I used an awl and poked a small hole through one and it was directly over the existing acre holes. 










With the two screws installed










With screw covers installed











Put up the other three grab handles and the center dome light tonight as well. Baby steps................


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## kizz (Jun 22, 2009)

I'm loving the restoration man. Keep it up!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Started on front end. Had to stop midstream because I have some wrong parts. 

Bought another hub nut and replaced the one I couldn't get tightened down to 203 ftlbs and then staked the nut on both new knuckle assemblies










Started putting the studs for the manual hubs in. I tightened them in place using a couple of nuts and I used a little blue Loctite on each stud. 


























Jacked up one side and placed on jack stand. Left jack in place as well. 










Dropped the sway bar and then unbolted the steering rack. You have to remove bolts and nuts from these 3 locations. This is necessary to allow room to get LCA bolts out but also I have new steering rack bushings to put in. 


























Ready to start pulling parts on the passenger side










Pulled the ABS sensor wire and unbolted its cable clamps 


















Unbolt swaybar link










Next unbolt the caliper and it's line clamp and pull it to the side and tie it up


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Laid the tundra rotor aside as it goes back on new assembly










Popped cap off hub and removed cotter pin and nut lock. Then used a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. One tip is to consider this before removing tire as I had to remount tire to provide friction to break nut free. 










Removed upper ball joint from the UCA and freed the knuckle










Missed a few pictures but next I unbolted the 4 bolts holding LBJ to the knuckle which freed the knuckle assembly to be pulled free and set aside. Then separated LBJ from LCA and OTR. The LBJ and OTR are both discard items so I used a pickle fork to break them free. Also unbolted the upper and lower shock bolts to drop the shock/spring assembly out of the way. 


Next up I unbolted the factory UCA and bolted in the light racing UCA.










Used a paint pen to mark the cam bolt plates/dials










Tied brake caliper and cv axle up to the light racing uca to get them out of way of LCA. Used some pieces of wire this time instead of zip ties. 










Missed a few more pictures but next I removed the outer tie rod end, and the boot covering the inner tie rod. Also went ahead and unbolted and dropped the lower control arm. 


Pulled the old cv axle with a bowl under the truck to catch the fluid. Was getting ready to replace the seal when I realized I have the wrong seals. I have seals for newer trucks which are slightly smaller. Can't get a new seal till Monday so I'm at a standstill as I want a new seal in there before putting the new manual hub cv axle in


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## nittanylion64 (Oct 3, 2007)

If there is one thing I hate, it's stopping midstream!  This project is unreal, keep up the GREAT work!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Turns out I had the right seals all along. 


So, Picking up from this thread Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum



Just managed to get the axle seal in and replace. See above thread for details.

Also managed to get the new toyota lower LCA mounted and the reman toyota tacoma manual hub cv axle inserted into diff.











Showing gap between diff extension tube on passenger side and new cv axle










Not sure if this will work or not but did my best to straighten out the bent dust cover. Looks like a replacement is available but not sure it's needed since this isn't a normal seal. 



















Got the front shock/coil bolted back in. Service manual pages I found for torque settings look to show 22 ft lbs for top 3 small nuts and 101 ft lbs for large shock eye bolt on the front end. If anyone has different info please point me to it. 



















Tomorrow night I'll pick up again with the lower ball joint, knuckle and LR upper ball joint.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got a late start tonight but focused first on the rear seal on the knuckle. Got it tapped into place










Removed the nut on the upper control arm, applied Loctite,and re torqued to 85 ft lbs. then applied a jamb nut with its own Loctite just for security. 










Installed the light racing upper ball joint. Torqued the ball joint castle nut down to 47 ft lbs and installed cotter pin as instructions indicated. Haven't torqued top bolt yet as I need a socket 










Reinstalled ABS sensor and brackets










See anything wrong with this picture?










That's right, I installed the dust shields backwards. Only option was to cut them off and toss them as the hub is pressed through them. DOH! 










Got rotor and caliper remounted and torqued the caliper bolts into place per specs. Also got the aisin hub base installed. 


















Got tired and called it a night. I'm currently struggling with getting the hub lock faces to go together properly so they lock and unlock easily. Will pick back up with that tomorrow night but I'm close to putting the tire back on this side. Then I only lack torquing the LCA bolts and the UBJ nut and this side is finished and on to the drivers side. 

I will say that this whole manual hub conversion has probably been more than I bargained for but I'm close to seeing the finish line. 




.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Got the manual hub figured out. They came from Toyota assembled wrong. Took them apart and followed some pictures on the web to reassemble and it works great now. 

Here are my pictures following along with this website Toyota Aisin Manual Hub 101 - Disassembly and Reassembly - WabFab Off-Road LLC

Spring set on guide









Spring on guide rides in slot in clutch 









Attaching spring to clutch. Start position









Ending spring position









Setting second spring on clutch with flat side down









Dial turned to the FREE position and clutch with spring pressed into back side of dial and turned counter clockwise to the position as shown. There are tabs that line up and allow this to go together









Took an old toothbrush dipped in axle grease and lightly coated all surfaces


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Manual hub complete










Shown with wheel back on










And a few shots of new parts installed



























Lastly, everything has been torqued to spec and is ready to go except the top nut on the light racing control arm. I don't have a large enough socket to fit it so I'll have to come back to this tomorrow evening. This will be slid all the way to the outside edge then torqued down to 149 ft lbs











Friday night, Saturday and Sunday my plan is to get the drivers side swapped out in the same way, to get the steering rack bushings swapped out, the sway bar links and bushings in place and then the new inner and outer tie rods put on. We will see though as I'm moving pretty slow. 





.


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## rockytophigh (Apr 16, 2008)

Sir....I just went through all 13 pages of this build log, and you are one amazing human being. Simply outstanding in all regards.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

rockytophigh said:


> Sir....I just went through all 13 pages of this build log, and you are one amazing human being. Simply outstanding in all regards.


WOW. Thanks for the very kind compliment. :blush:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Started out this morning by moving the upper ball joint nut outward and torquing down to 150 ft lbs per instructions


















Surprised at how many tools I'm using despite reading repeatedly it only takes a few metric sockets to do anything on a 4runner. :biggrin2:










Then started working on the drivers side by stripping out parts





































A little trick my Dad showed me last weekend, which is probably only amusing to me at how simple yet obvious it is, is to make ties and hangers using home wiring. 










In case I'm not the only one who never thought of this, and anyone reading this finds it interesting, simply take a piece of 12 gauge romex or similar and cut to length. 










Using a knife or your dikes cut a simple small slit between two of the wires and pull the outside sheathing back a little. Then grab a wire with some pliers and pull.










End result is 3 usable wires to tie something up or hang something and only takes about 30 seconds to do. I'm using them to hang my brakes and stuff while I'm working as you can see in my pictures.












Now the fun stuff............. 


*ABS LIGHT*
Found out why my ABS light has been on since I bought the truck. The ABS wire was cut at top of shock/spring perch:









Looking at the wire ends, it has been broken for a while because of the condition of the copper and the rubber end. Looks like I need to order a new sensor for this side.












*LEAK*
So the fluid I was seeing on the bottom of the block at the oil pan joint just below the fan seems to run all down the drivers side. Can't see this from above the engine but once the tire and parts were removed it's very visible through the wheel well. Not sure if this is fresh or old that might have been cured when I had the upper seals replaced. While it looks bad, I've only driven it 450 miles since buying it last spring, so it's got to be mostly old residue. The oil level is still full since when I had the seals replaced and oil changed so I'm not sure. Will need to clean and degrease all this to find out, but that will have to wait until I get the thing drivable first. 

Some pictures:


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Dropping the Sonoran diff drop out and jacking the diff back up with spare jack did the trick on the large steering rack bolt.










Drop kit removed. Only problem is one of the top washers dropped down into a hole in the cross member that runs right there. Not sure how I'm going to get it out yet but will come back to it when I have the drivers tire mounted and I can safely crawl all under truck.










Don't judge my wood 4x4's as I only used this small jack to lift the diff up. Truck is sitting on jack stand with floor jack also there as backup.










Blurry picture, but you can see the empty bolt hole in the back right and the diff next to it. That was the culprit bolt. Getting it out gave me enough wiggle with the steering rack to wiggle the cam and bolt out of the LCA. I put steering rack bolt back in partway backwards to just hold the steering rack until I'm ready to swap bushings. 










Where I stand right this minute with new LCA hanging and lightly tightened to hold CAMS in place on paint marks I made. Will need to be torqued still.










Up next is the light racing UCA.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

So today I've pushed forward on the drivers side. Got the seal figured out first thing. Decided based on my prior pictures the seal goes in with the cup or bowl side facing the differential. This also means I did the passenger side backwards and will get to redo it. fun fun

New drivers side seal tapped into place


























Straightened out the outer dust shield like on the other side as they were both damaged in shipping. Unfortunately I've had them just sitting for too long to go back and ask for replacement from Camelback as I ordered them last year, months and months ago. Neither side is pretty, but the metal part fits and the rubber part seems to all be fine and intact. Shame on me for not addressing when I got them but I'm going to try them as is before resorting to a replacement shield.


















Drivers CV Axle installed (for the second time today) and hanging with my helping hand to keep it out of the way for the moment. (second time because first time I put the inner dust shield on backwards. Realized it after axle was already in and had to pull axle again. ugh!)










Can't see much but you can see the axle seated into diff and where the dust shield rides










Shock and spring reinstalled and torqued into place top and bottom











:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
_I have learned one tip that may help others. When it comes to getting the CV Axles out of the diff or diff extension tube, most people seem to use a crow bar, long screw driver, or other implement to pry the axle outward. The resistance as you know is due to the retaining ring on the end of the axle. Keeps it in there, but makes it a pain in the arse to pry them out.

Well, the simplest way I've found to get these out without damage to the various parts, including the seal, is to use this simple little device:_

















_Simply take the large chisel or other tapered item and place it under the edge of the axle flange that you normally pry against. Place it in such a way that it can just slide underneath that flange and against the outside of the differential tube. This should slide under and out the other side of the little tab, so make sure you don't have it pointed in towards the axle itself. Then using a hammer like a 3 lb sledge, hammer the chisel so that it slips through that space. Rotate the CV and do the same under each of the 3 flange tabs. Forcing the wedge shaped chisel through pushes the axle out.

Don't know why I didn't think of it before, but after fighting with this one for 30 minutes with a pry bar and large screw driver, the idea hit me. Hopefully it helps someone else out and sorry I don't have any pictures._


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Little more progress and lots more frustration. 

Getting ready to mount the new toyota LBJ assembly onto the knuckle with new toyota bolts and blue loctite. Torqued the 4 bolts to 59 ft lbs. (note the blue seen in these pictures is not my loctite and is something that came on them from toyota)


































As you can see the brake dust shield is gone on this one too as I had both sides mounted backwards. Since the hub presses through them and they are one piece, no way to fix them without un-pressing everything.


rear hub seal taped into place with wood block and rubber mallet










Moved brake caliper back to the left side so that it is ready to mount and the lines are routed properly before mounting the knuckle.










Knuckle, lower ball joint and upper ball joint set into place. Torqued both upper ball joint nuts into place and inserted the cotter pin. 














And here is where the fun started that I've been fooling with for the past few hours. The lower ball joint castle nut would not tighten. Instead the ball joint itself would just spin. I tried taking it out of the LCA numerous times and tried to reseat it with no luck. 

I tried almost everything you can think of to make this thing seat into the taper in the LCA and finally came up with a solution that worked. With two people this probably wouldn't be an issue, but since I'm by myself it took some creativity and lots of reading for others ideas. 

What finally made the taper seat enough to start tightening down the castle nut enough to set the torque at 103 ft lbs per the FSM for my 97 is this, a floor jack underneath the LCA lifting the truck almost off my other jack and stands, and a long metal pry bar above the knuckle and under the frame
















(sorry for the blurry pic)




More to follow! Keep watching!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

And wrapping it up for the day, the cv axle spacer and snap ring were put on










Gasket in place










The manual hub base was attached


















Center cv axle bolt with washer attached. (In center of hub)










Hub cover with lever attached and wheel mounted


































Drivers side done


















Now I need to pull passenger side apart and swap the seal around, then swap out the inner and outer tie rods and steering rack bushings, and then remount the sway bar and new links/bushings. Lots to do but feel as though I'm in home stretch.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I had been planning to place 3 hella 4000 lights on my front bumper using two cornering beams and one euro beam. Unfortunately I've reached a possible snag in my plans in that I have a few issues going on.

Spacing wise, three will fit left to right, and they sit slightly behind the upper tubing, so that's not an issue. The biggest problem I'm looking at is that once installed the covers won't fit. Without a way to snap the protective covers on, I face the risk of damage as well as the problem with tickets for having them uncovered on the road.

I can drop back down to only the two cornering lights and get the covers to sort of rotate into place because it takes the side tubes out of the equation, but I'm not ready to give just yet.


Spacing if using 3 lights










Spacing if dropping back to only the two lights


















Another possible obstacle is my front CB antenna mount hole. I was planning to run a wire to this location so that I have the option to swap antenna locations between front or rear if I want. Seems crazy but I wanted the flexibility










The reason the cover doesn't fit easily are these large tabs that hold it on


















The close proximity of light to bumper bar is the issue for the tabs



























In the grand scheme of things, I realize this isn't a big problem, but I really wanted to get 3 up there. I'm sure it will work just fine with only the two as well.

Next up is finding two lights I like that fit into the pockets below. I'm thinking maybe some hella 4000 compact fogs, but have to measure to see if they will fit. The full size 4000's won't fit.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Cut a piece of the front grille out


















So that I can fit the grille into place before painting it flat black










The reason is to clear the solenoid pack on top of the warn zeon










Which still offers ample clearance for lights and to reach the engagement handle on the winch.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

After earlier cuts above










Based on the location for the remote plug in I had to trim a little further to allow it to fit. 










It's not as pretty and symmetrical but it now fits and allows access for operating the winch. Need to sand the cut edges. 


















The lights still pretty much hide the cuts from view


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## meantaco (Apr 10, 2011)

Cant wait to see it finished. Why did you sell your tundra?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

meantaco said:


> Cant wait to see it finished. Why did you sell your tundra?


Thanks. You and me both. I'm ready to get the front end stuff done so I can start driving it while I work on electrical and audio stuff next. 

At the time I sold it I needed something like an suv due to work needs.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Picked up the new rack from Advanced Auto this evening. Took a bunch of pictures. Looks pretty good other than the fact that it wasn't packed very well and movement in the box knocked paint off the tubing in many spots and some spots have some sort of cardboard or carpet fiber fuzz on them. It also came with bushings installed but not sure how they compare to Toyota bushings or Poly bushings. Will have to decide if I use them or put the Energy poly set it got through Wheelers in instead.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I didn't pre drain my fluid so I had to wait for it to bleed out after taking the upper line loose. I used the line/flare wrench to break it free and a regular combo wrench to remove them. Couldn't get my hand in there to remove by hand easily. 











Waiting for fluid to drain











I had bolt out so I put it in backwards just to hold the rack until ready to drop it 











Old rack out finally. Man that was a beoch to get out without it falling on my face. The steering link had sand and mud combined with some rust and it wouldn't pull free. I had to use a hammer and large chisel to get them apart. Sheesh. Will be spraying and cleaning that link out before I put the new one in. 











Now I have to get my other jamb nut off the old rack, take a few measurements to get the new one centered properly and then put it back up. I'm going to wait to put the outer tie rods on after I've gotten the work done replacing the cv axle dust shields and the passenger side axle seal that I put in backwards. Then we will get some fluid run through it and go get it aligned and bada-bing.


Just returned my core for a credit.


Little club music and a beer to keep me moving along











Took a few comparison shots before returning the core. They both have the same model number in the body of the rack. Looks like the old one had a B below the number though. 



























Fluid was clean but I had it changed 400 miles back











But the bushings were shot and falling apart and crumbling











Time to swap in the new bushings on the reman rack


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Noticed the new rack has Toyoda on the side. 


















Got the reman bushings out


















The smaller bushing the remanufacture used was total crap. No wonder people have mentioned these wearing out in just a few miles. It started to crumble as soon as I started messing with it. The larger bushing was in very good shape and probably would have been fine for a rubber bushing, but since I'm switching to poly on one, I might as well do all.










To get the smaller bushing out, I got the idea from another thread, but I used a long bolt, a 36mm socket, a couple of washers and a nut. Insert one washer on the bolt and poke it through the bushing. Then insert the socket over the bolt with the cupped side towards the bushing. Insert a washer and nut and start tightening and it will pull the bushing out and into the socket.

On the larger one, I didn't have a long enough bolt, but what I did to get it out is to take a razor blade and trim the rubber flange off on one side. When you look, one side has a plastic/hard flange, and the other is rubber. Once the rubber was removed, I was able to take a #1 or #2 screw driver and poke through on the trimmed side, and then using a hammer I was able to drive the screw driver and bushing out. Pretty simple actually and came out easier than the small one this way.



Just for future reference, I found another number on the reman rack, so figured I'd post it as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

New bushings in. I simply pressed the two halves in with my hands and then used a rubber mallet to tap the sleeve through the bushings. Very easy. 



























Reused the rubber boot from old rack on new rack where it connects to steering linkage. You can also see inside the new rack here as well. 











Connecting the fluid lines back up to the new rack is one of the hardest tasks I've done on this build so far. I like to have never gotten these two lines threaded on and back in place. Very hard to maneuver down there and I couldn't really reach these very well. 











Got the steering linkage reattached and the bolt torqued into place. Also got the long main bolt put back in by lifting the front differential. Torqued that 22mm nut down, and moved on to the 19mm center bolt, and then slipped the new bushing on the rack body and bolted the clamp over it torquing all of the bolts /nuts down to spec. 










































The rack is nice and snug with no play. I can only imagine it will make a marked improvement in handling. 
Over all I struggled with this project from start to finish. The position working under the truck, the limited height from the ground, and the limited space around the steering rack made it very difficult for me. For example, it's hard as heck to hit 141 ft lbs on a bolt when you are laying on your back and only have about 1.5' of movement space. Anyway, it's mounted and next up barring any issues is to get the axle seals corrected, the. I'll install tie rods and get some power steering fluid in there.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Started on pulling front end back apart to replace the passenger side CV/Diff seal because I put it in backwards. Man what a pain it is to get this all back apart. LOL


Even after reading tons of articles, I've spent 2 hours just getting the manual hub off, mainly the snap ring on the axle and the cone washers on the hub base. Sheesh!



So for future reference, here is my new best friend. A 2.4mm flat blade screw driver










The 2.0mm was too small and not up to the task










Thinking that in the long run, it would help prevent corrosion and rust, I applied some light grease to each cone washer before installing them. Well, it meant they didn't want to come out with normal methods because the grease was helping hold them in. Using the 2.4mm screw driver, place the tip into the split in the washer and hammer it in close to the stud and it will eventually pop the cone washer up and out.











So after 2 hours this morning, this is as far as I've gotten. 











Now I'm trying to decide if it would be best to remove the top nut on the light racing ball joint or to remove the 4 bolts on the lower ball joint. Not sure which one will give me enough movement to get the CV axle to come out with the least amount of work. I don't want to have to unbolt the brake components and what not if I can avoid it. I'm thinking I'll start with the light racing nut first as it would be the easiest to remove and replace. Will see. 


Four LBJ bolts removed and knuckle swung to side










Prior incorrectly installed seal removed and getting ready to tap the new one back in










New seal tapped into place in the correct direction this time (cup side facing inward)










Went ahead and replaced my outer cv axle dust shield while I had it apart since the other one was so mangled. Much nicer fit now










And this shot is just for @sschaefer3 as I remembered to put the old bump stops back on per your reminder post earlier in the thread. 











In the home stretch on this side now as I'm just buttoning up the end of the axle and the manual hubs, and the tire can go back on and I'm on to the drivers side to replace the dust shield, abs sensor wire and bump stops.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not many pictures, but got the drivers side done as well. On this side, I replaced the outer cv axle dust shield with a new one as this one was mangled during shipping, replaced the ABS wire with a used one as mine was ripped in half, and I installed the old bump stops from my prior LCA's.


Here is the old dust shield I had tried to straighten











Just as an FYI for future reference, the ABS lines plug in just inside the engine compartment. You can see it down on the frame. Also noticed some corrosion on this frame area due to a leaky battery apparently. I'll need to get this cleaned up and coated with something since I've put in a new battery when I got the truck.











Next up is the new outer tie rods and the new sway bar bushings and links. 



Sway bar prep



















Had to cut the old bolt as the head stripped and it was rusted in place



























New heavy duty links and bushings from Sonoran Steel in place



















New Toyota rubber sway bar bushings in place











View into each wheel well. Everything done except the outer tie rods, which are on list for tomorrow.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

I want that little RIGID hand saw! btw I hate suspension work, just replacing the leafs in my Mazda B2600i 15 years ago was enough for me. Lookin good tho.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

REGULARCAB said:


> I want that little RIGID hand saw! btw I hate suspension work, just replacing the leafs in my Mazda B2600i 15 years ago was enough for me. Lookin good tho.


Thanks. The little saw has been helpful for sure but doesn't replace a full size recip saw in my opinion.


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## copperears (Sep 2, 2010)

Txbonds,

About 30 years ago a Toyota mechanic showed me how to get the cone washers off of the hubs. Place a brass rod or use a brass hammer on the end of the threaded studs. A few tonks, they pop right out. 

I just recently pulled the hubs on a 1980 truck axle. It has been sitting outside, under a piece of rubber for 20+ years. It took me a half hour to dig all snow, etc. out and only about 5 minutes to get the hubs off.http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif

On the older axles, you need to use a dust shield/backing plate eliminator ring. I am curios as to if leaving it off matters on the '97, as I haven't taken mine apart to know, yet. Last summer, one of the dust shields was constantly rubbing because it was so rusty and flimsy. I ripped most of off and used my grinder to get the rest. 
It does't seem to affect anything, but I parked it in the row of projects and haven't gotten back to it since. Well I did transfer the audio gear to another rig. I miss all the sound deadening a lot, as the current ride has no back seats or carpet. The rear end is howling, am going to do a solid pinion spacer, sometime soon. Or maybe heap on the cld & mlv. and turn up the volume.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Just for all of you that theorized this would never leave the garage or see any dirt, I got a chance to test out the new manual hubs and front end a little





































No major wheeling just doing some road clearing but did get to confirm everything seems to be working well so now I need to go get it aligned and move on to doing electrical.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Just a few pictures since I've made no updates or progress on parts install.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Finally back doing some chores on the truck tonight. First up was replacing the front O2 sensor. This is the one in front of the cat converter.

I ordered a denso from amazon for around $45. It looks slightly different than the stock one but is the model number given by denso as the replacement for my 97 runner. This model is for a 97 ltd 4wd with auto transmission and for the upstream o2 bank. You can search in the reference link below to get the correct model number for your year model, transmission style and what not.

Reference links:
Oxygen Sensors | DENSO Auto Parts
Find My Part | DENSO Auto Parts

Model I ordered, which is now $49:
Amazon.com: Denso 234-4162 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive


New one with box and model number visible:










O2 Sensor location. I'm laying on floor looking up just behind the steering rack and on the passenger side of the transmission. The nuts are 12mm and there is a replaceable seal that comes with the new sensor:










Sensor harness plug location next to sensor and beside transmission:










Old and new side by side:










Plug on replacement is direct plug into factory harness:










Factory harness is up near transmission. You get the plug to come out by inserting a screw driver under the tab visible on the top side of the plug in this picture. The tab has to lift away from the plug to clear the small nub visible on the picture before this one:











I've just finished this project and all told it took about 5 to 10 minutes. I took longer to post this post than the do the actual swap. Hope these posts and pictures help others along the way. Cheers!


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## MiloX (May 22, 2005)

I don't know if I have said this or not... but I love everything about this build.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Can I get a Whoop, Whoop! 



























































Need to paint a section of new fence and had bought a high end Wagner 890 sprayer. Started thinking rather than spending $200 on just a sprayer I should get a nice air source and buy a $40 latex capable air sprayer. 


So who makes the best combo tool kit to use in my garage on the 4runner that includes best tools for the dollar?


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

nice!!! still want to move to air tools!! lorve it!


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

sydmonster said:


> nice!!! still want to move to air tools!! lorve it!


I sure could have used it 10 or so pages back.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Not much new but some pictures from this past week:


Some data during a drive showing average engine temp











Test fitting radio and switch holder











Worked to get 50' 12/3 extension cord reel and 50' 3/8 air hose reel mounted in front of garage



















Mounting regulator and small filter / water separator next to reel so I can adjust tool pressure without going to compressor



















Added an aluminum high flow coupler on end of hose reel


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Did some additional work on the runner today. Got the new rear sway bar bushings, new rear sway bar links, and all of the associated washers, bushings and nuts for the links installed.

Also went through all of the rear suspension and bumper bolts and retorqued everything back to spec. Found a few that had loosened and needed to be tightened back down.

While I was at it, I did get the rear Sonoran Steel body mounts installed. Was pretty simple although I had to make two shout outs to them who were amazingly helpful and supportive as always.



And now for the 4runner porn!

New oem Toyota rear links:


















New oem Toyota rear sway bushings next to Sonoran HD lower control arms


















Factory rear body mounts


















New Sonoran Steel rear body mounts sitting on top of my torque check list 










Removed center nut and washer from factory mounts










Central bolt is accessed through rear floor below rubber grommet. It is held in place by little tabs.


























With two pieces of 4x4, I lifted the body of the truck up enough to pull the old ones out and slip the new ones in










New body mounts in place above frame










New Sonoran Steel rear body mount in place and ready to test out












Just gave it a test drive for about 20 miles and have to say that replacing the rear sway components and the rear body mounts is one of the best improvements to the drive and ride I've made. 

The floaty funky feel I got after my lift went on is diminished and the ride has firmed up really nicely. The lift and suspension work great now and it is fun to drive. Feels more like it should have come stock.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Few things since last update


Pulled gauge cluster out




















End result is a factory looking dash that is mucho brighter. Did all LEDs in the dash as well. 











Also put in new flasher relay to deal with LEDs in front bumper. Did the trick but a pain to get to.


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## The Dude (Mar 24, 2007)

Gauges look great. All new bulbs, or did you swap in LED lights in place of the OEM bulbs?


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

The Dude said:


> Gauges look great. All new bulbs, or did you swap in LED lights in place of the OEM bulbs?


Just new led bulbs in place of factory incandescent.


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## is_250 (Mar 16, 2011)

Nice work. I have a soft spot for 4Runners. I've owned an 1st, 3rd, and 4th gen t4r.

I've actually got a spare gauge cluster out of my 99 if you want pick a spare up for cheap to mod.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Is the NVH much worse with the new mounts? (I can understand an increase, but wondering how much more and is it worth it?)


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

is_250 said:


> Nice work. I have a soft spot for 4Runners. I've owned an 1st, 3rd, and 4th gen t4r.
> 
> I've actually got a spare gauge cluster out of my 99 if you want pick a spare up for cheap to mod.


Thanks. I've not updated this thread in a while. However my thread over on toyota-4runner.org has stayed pretty up to date. I'm just now at the point of getting ready to install the stereo so I'll try to start updating this thread again too. I've also recently picked up a 4th gen limited with V8 engine as well. 







sydmonster said:


> Is the NVH much worse with the new mounts? (I can understand an increase, but wondering how much more and is it worth it?)


What is NVH? Not sure I follow your question. Thanks.





Here are a few pics of both runners side by side


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Great job, is there a link you're willing to share for that other forum ?


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## dallasneon (Nov 3, 2005)

Coppertone said:


> Great job, is there a link you're willing to share for that other forum ?


X2, I've been following this thread since the beginning and was disappointed when the updates stopped. Would love to see the rest of the build.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Sure thing. Here is the 97. Just start from the last page and work backwards until you get to the same point I stopped updating this one. 

txbonds 97 4runner limited projec - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum



And for kicks and giggles, here is the newer 06:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/177836-txbonds-06-4runner-limited-project.html


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

In because 4Runners are cool. And I like your build so far.


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

looks like the build continues around pg 34 on the other forum


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks. I guess I just got lazy with keeping two complete threads going. Sorry about that. I'll keep the ones on the 4runner forum updated so check them out if interested in my progress and I"ll try to make a point to post an update here now and then as well.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Had to relocate my 6x12 dual axle trailer that we use to haul the Mule on to store it for a few months. As I am waiting on clips to get the new wheel well liner and fender flare back on the 06, I decided to drag the trailer with the 97. 

Left out early this morning and did about 260 miles round trip hauling the trailer half the way. The trailer was empty and I folded the rear gate flat to cut wind resistance but the 97 still didn't like it. It got it up there and managed to maintain highway speeds but it took forever getting up to speed from a stop and burned a bunch more fuel than normal. Would hate to think this was my only vehicle for towing all the time. LOL


Anyway while at out place up in GA I ran the truck around a bit in 4x4, high and low, and ran the rear locker some. I was pleased to find that everything engaged immediately and was running smooth. No off roading fun but some off pavement playing around our property.


Goofing off


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Pictures are wonderful and it looks like you had fun which is what this is all about.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

I did have some fun. Love going to our place up there but didn't get to stay long this time due to chores at home.

I've flim flamed around about selling this truck and I just don't think I'm ever going to get the chance to go wheel it like I used to do with my land rover 10+ years ago. I've struggled very hard with the idea of selling it after putting so much work into it and making it so nice but as I get older and busier I'm starting to think I would be better off to sell it and after a few months of driving the 06, trade it in on a new one. I know it seems crazy but I think I'm just getting tired of the project and am not getting the enjoyment I hoped to get when it was done. Still needs the radio installed but don't be surprised if it's not listed for sale again. 

This truck wants to go wheeling and my life just doesn't fit that lifestyle anymore I guess. As much as it pains me, I'm going to be listing the truck up for sale. I'm around $20k+ in so far and almost all of the truck has been replaced and refurbished with Toyota parts as you can see from the build I liked to.

I posted this on the 4runner forum but I've been going back and forth over this decision for a month or two. I've listed it for sale twice and taken it down. The reason I'm finally thinking it is time relates to the fact that I was diagnosed earlier this year with nerve damage in my arms and elbows and it is causing me pain and discomfort. I don't have the strength and stamina in my arms that I used to have and its making me want to just have a turn key comfy ride. Lifting the spare tire off and back on to attach the trailer this morning all most killed me. LOL Wasn't a big deal 25 years ago. Not sure what happened. LOL 

Still need to get the actual stereo speakers, head unit and sub installed so I can get the interior panels popped back in, and I need to bolt the skids on (after a coat of black paint), but wanted to start spreading the word. Once I get it done I'll be listing it on the likes of ebay and/or auto trader.

I know this is a niche item. It is a fantastic truck and I can offer a condensed listing of whats been done and what the condition is, as well as any remaining house keeping items a new owner would want to do. Will likely be looking for around $14,950 with all the toys and gadgets included like the winch and stuff that are on it. I'm open to discussing serious offers of course and would discount pricing without winch, stereo, etc. if that worked for someone.


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Just an update but I sold the 4Runner last year and picked up a new one: txbonds 15 4Runner Trail Edition thread - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Wow, did not see this coming lol....


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## txbonds (Mar 10, 2008)

Coppertone said:


> Wow, did not see this coming lol....


Yeah, I know. In hindsight I'm glad I did as I really like the new one and it doesn't require the same level of maintenance and repair work that the old one did. 

Will probably update the stereo in it at some point as I have a few components left from the other one including polk db 5.25 coax (rear tailgate), polk db 5.25 separates (rear doors), JL 10" shallow sub and a helix 5 channel amp. Should be able to make a decent setup by adding some polk db 6.5s for front doors, a box for the sub and some sort of factory adapter unit.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Well if any diy'er can do it, you would be that one.


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## rollajake2012 (Jun 27, 2013)

I have been subbed to that thread over there for a couple months I love the new 4runners and the older ones for that matter.


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

In my 52 years I've learned a thing or to.
One lesson is putting that much work into a vehicle only to turn around and sell it makes no sense.
All you managed to accomplish is build an amazing 4Runner for someone else that uses a wallet for a tool.
Life is too short.

But thanks for the update none-the-less.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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## Darth SQ (Sep 17, 2010)

txbonds said:


> Yeah, I know. In hindsight I'm glad I did as I really like the new one and it doesn't require the same level of maintenance and repair work that the old one did.
> 
> Will probably update the stereo in it at some point as I have a few components left from the other one including polk db 5.25 coax (rear tailgate), polk db 5.25 separates (rear doors), JL 10" shallow sub and a helix 5 channel amp. Should be able to make a decent setup by adding some polk db 6.5s for front doors, a box for the sub and some sort of factory adapter unit.


BTW please start a new build thread if you choose to continue on with your new 4Runner updates.


Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


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