# quality_sound's 08 GTI



## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Hey all I guess it's time to start my own log.

I'll copy the info from my dash pod thread later.
Components going in are as follows:
Tweeters: Alpine XT25s if I can find a set
Mids: L4s already in and breaking in
Midbass: Dayton RS225 in the OEM location (waiting on rings Zach  )
Sub: Kicker S12d-4 (already have it) or Diyma R12
Amps: 3ea. Zuki Eleets Four Channels (Already have them)
HU: OEM VW RNS-510
Processor: Audison Bit One hopefully

So I finally got around to seeing how...and IF...everything is going to fit into my hatch. I am sans processor at the moment but I'm pretty sure whatever I use will fit under the front seat if necessary also there's a buttload of space in the rear side panels.

Some initial placement pics of the Zuki Eleets four-channel amps. Looks like plenty of room for a single 12 on the pass side in the cubby. I already have an OG 12" Solobaric d-series 4ohm and I'm also considering a DIYMA R12. The one thing that might throw a wrench in the plans is the stupid TPMS so removing the spare tire might get an idiot light on the dash. If I can get around that with my VAG-COM the spare is gone. This is all simply to keep the height of the floor to a minimum.

Anyway, on to the pics:
This LOOKS to have the most room available but not much for the sub on the driver's side.









This is the way I'll probably go. Note the extra room on the driver's side. There should also be enough room in front of the amps for power distribution and the processor.









And the car in question. Looks pretty much the same as this now but on a different set of coilovers that can go much, much lower. I just raised the car pretty much all the way UP on the new set (H&R Ultra Lows, was Eibach Pro-Street) and it's at least a half in lower than in this pic. Wheels are 19x8.5 OEM Helios, an optional wheel for the Phaeton. Had a set of 215/35/19 Pirelli P Zero Neros M+S on there than were DONE on about 6K miles so I went back to 225/35/19 General Exclaim UHPs. 










Any thoughts and ideas are much appreciated.


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## Cryptic1911 (Dec 10, 2008)

don't worry about the spare.. just get rid of it, no problems with tpms or anything since they only register when they are "on" the car.

just curious why you went with an rns-510? aren't those wicked expensive compared to a top of the line aftermarket unit that has more features like a kenwood dnx8120 or something comparable in the pioneer line?


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

when you get it done, hopefully we can all meet up and do a comparison with the stock HU versus the one in the GTi i did  i would be interested after hearing about it...

looking forward to the pics


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Cryptic1911 said:


> don't worry about the spare.. just get rid of it, no problems with tpms or anything since they only register when they are "on" the car.
> 
> just curious why you went with an rns-510? aren't those wicked expensive compared to a top of the line aftermarket unit that has more features like a kenwood dnx8120 or something comparable in the pioneer line?


Well I pulled the spare to see. If it works, it's staying out.

Mostly because I REALLY like the 510. It has everything I need, or I can add what it doesn't, and the biggest thing, and this is REALLY petty, I prefer to be able to skip presets from the steering wheel and all aftermarket units seek. I told you it was petty. 

The 510 is down to about $1400 which is right around W505/the new navi piece price so I'm cool with the price.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> when you get it done, hopefully we can all meet up and do a comparison with the stock HU versus the one in the GTi i did  i would be interested after hearing about it...
> 
> looking forward to the pics


At the rate I've been making progress you might end up doing the car for me! lol


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Your wife has a nice looking hatch.:daisy:


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

unpredictableacts said:


> Your wife has a nice looking hatch.:daisy:


Maybe I'm lost, but you do know that is his car and not his wife's right? He's just gh3y!! ROFL!!!

For what it's worth Paul, I like the Zuki's in the first arrangement running across the car. Maybe you could score a 4th, empty chassis from Patrick and hide the processor/distro blocks under that "cover?"

Zach


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

Boostedrex said:


> *Maybe I'm lost, but you do know that is his car and not his wife's right? He's just gh3y!! ROFL!!!
> *
> For what it's worth Paul, I like the Zuki's in the first arrangement running across the car. Maybe you could score a 4th, empty chassis from Patrick and hide the processor/distro blocks under that "cover?"
> 
> Zach


That was me calling his car Ghey without saying it like you did.......:drummer::thumbsdown:


Nice hatch......I honeslty am a huge hatch fan.....I just choose more :laugh4:relible cars.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Zach - The section on the left is where the sub is going anyway so I'm not to worried about that space. I prefer it for that too. I might even just stick the processor under the front seat so I don't have to deal with making sure it'll fit in the back. 

unpredictable - Are you saying it's not reliable because it's a hatch or a VW? For me VWs have been the most reliable cars I've owned...but I'm stupid anal about maintenance and I do everything I have the tools to do myself so I know it's done right. All I wish now is I could have afforded an R32 just for AWD. Maybe I'll suck it up and get a 3.2 VR6 4Motion Passat CC.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Oh, I forgot to mention that I drove to San Jose and back today without the spare and no idiot light so it looks like I'll be able to get the floor height down like I wanted. 

Thanks Cryptic!


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

quality_sound said:


> Zach - The section on the left is where the sub is going anyway so I'm not to worried about that space. I prefer it for that too. I might even just stick the processor under the front seat so I don't have to deal with making sure it'll fit in the back.
> 
> unpredictable - Are you saying it's not reliable because it's a hatch or a VW? For me VWs have been the most reliable cars I've owned...but I'm stupid anal about maintenance and I do everything I have the tools to do myself so I know it's done right. All I wish now is I could have afforded an R32 just for AWD. Maybe I'll suck it up and get a 3.2 VR6 4Motion Passat CC.


I have delt with a problematic 02 GTi that left a bad taste in my mouth......So with that one bad experience i do not allow myself to enjoy VW/audi anymore.......even though I would love to have a few given to me.....:thumbsup:


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

Hey quality, subscribed to this for sure to get some ideas.

I've got all my stuff buried under the hatch minus the sub and sub amp. CarPC, 6-channel, and all the wiring is under there, with the spare tire in. Obviously you've got me thinking about removing it now and adding my sub amp under there. 

Just a heads up, anything you do under the hatch floor needs to be secured pretty well. If there is any movement at all it gets bounced around ALOT. I know this because I made a false panel over the spare and didn't really have a way to secure it down. Every medium/large bump made it jump around a bit and sound horrible. I've since fixed it, and I'm sure you already know about this, but just an FYI on the off chance you didn't.

I'm also curious what you're doing with the 12 channels of amplification you have. I'm assuming you'll bridge one of the 4-channels for the midbass drivers, then use the other for the tweeters and midranges on regular 4-channel operation. Then the last one will be for the subs correct? Or are you bridging one to your L4's as well?

Anyways, looking forward to seeing the install. I'd like to see how you end up doing the false floor. Are you glassing or using MDF?


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

There are 4 X .75" and 2 X .5" birch ply rings sitting in my garage right now awaiting pick up.  They turned out pretty nice if I do say so myself. 

Zach


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

unpredictableacts said:


> I have delt with a problematic 02 GTi that left a bad taste in my mouth......So with that one bad experience i do not allow myself to enjoy VW/audi anymore.......even though I would love to have a few given to me.....:thumbsup:


Wow,

One bad car turned you off an entire brand? I'm surprised you drive at all. 
EVERY manufacturer has problems. Remember the sludged Toyotas from a few years ago? ALmost everything in their lineup had the problem and they weren't even turbo cars. American cars are put together like crap, and it goes on and on. Basically, don't discount the brand for one bad car. :thumbup:


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> Wow,
> 
> One bad car turned you off an entire brand? I'm surprised you drive at all.
> EVERY manufacturer has problems. Remember the sludged Toyotas from a few years ago? ALmost everything in their lineup had the problem and they weren't even turbo cars. American cars are put together like crap, and it goes on and on. Basically, don't discount the brand for one bad car. :thumbup:


Uh oh, somebody struck a nerve. LOL!!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

darcness said:


> Hey quality, subscribed to this for sure to get some ideas.
> 
> I've got all my stuff buried under the hatch minus the sub and sub amp. CarPC, 6-channel, and all the wiring is under there, with the spare tire in. Obviously you've got me thinking about removing it now and adding my sub amp under there.
> 
> ...


I was going to secure the rack to the floor and the cover to the rack. We did a false floor in my brother's 07 Rabbit and the cover is pressure fit and it's good. 

I actually have 2 extra channels right now. Breakdown is as follows:
One 4-channel for the L4/tweeters
One 4-channel bridged for the RS225s
Half of one 4-channel bridged to the sub
Second half of the last 4-channel unused. 

I thought about a 3.1 setup briefly but the HU I want to use doesn't have an optical out and the processor I'm looking at doesn't look like it does 5.1 either.

The false floor will be just high enough to clear the amps so it shouldn't be much higher than the original floor. I'm thinking an inch higher at the most. There will also be some fans in there to keep the air moving around just in case. The rack and floor will be all wood. The sub box will be on the driver's side and mostly wood but the section that does into the pocket will be glass so it'll be as solid as possible.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Boostedrex said:


> Uh oh, somebody struck a nerve. LOL!!


Nah, it just makes me giggle when a person gets one bad car during a period where the manufacturer us known to have issues with certain models and they assume that every car that maker makes, made or will make are bad. :thumbsup: I get a little more uppity with the VWs since they are without a doubt better than anything on the market up to about double the cost. 

But it's his choice. If he doesn't want to try VW again I can't make him, just offering up my experiences with the brand over the last 15 years or so.


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

quality_sound said:


> Wow,
> 
> One bad car turned you off an entire brand? I'm surprised you drive at all.
> EVERY manufacturer has problems. Remember the sludged Toyotas from a few years ago? ALmost everything in their lineup had the problem and they weren't even turbo cars. American cars are put together like crap, and it goes on and on. Basically, don't discount the brand for one bad car. :thumbup:


LOL I am sorry to get your install thread off of topic.....I realize it seems odd, however I had countless eletrical probelms with the car that very oddly were never covered by the warranty. I this is all with the factory system in it. I realize everyone can make a mistake or have a problem however I like to avoid $15k-$25k mistakes on my end. 

On the other hand those Zuks are NICE>:cool2:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

What I started with:


























What I finished with:

































I know it's not 100% coverage but it was getting late and I was hitting diminishing returns.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

you drove to Sj and didnt stop by? bleh


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

Too bad the spare wheel well is shallow and has that bulge in the middle, you could use that for a sub enclosure otherwise... What product are you using for deadening?

Here's a side enclosure built for a GTi by a friend installer: 










Edit: in reality the carpet colour isn't that much different.


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## Trade-n-games (Nov 25, 2008)

I also hope you removed the back speaker holder tray and put some sound damp behind it? I am getting ready to start the build on my 08 VW R32 and my trunk is close but I have the stock battery in the trunk so my floor pan is way different. Did all of it make a huge improvement to the sound in the rear?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> you drove to Sj and didnt stop by? bleh


It was a trip with the family so it wasn't really an ideal day for it. It's funny because I did want to pick your brain on a few things.



n_olympios said:


> Too bad the spare wheel well is shallow and has that bulge in the middle, you could use that for a sub enclosure otherwise...


And VW flattened the bulge out for 09...****ers...I guess they found a spot for all the smog equipment like every other manufacturer on the planet. A flat well would have been MUCH easier.



> What product are you using for deadening?


To be honest, I'm not sure. I got it from a member here that wanted some people to use it and review it. It's good stuff.



> Here's a side enclosure built for a GTi by a friend installer:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks good. That's a 10", correct? I'm going to do a 12 and I need something like 6.5" of depth so I can test a DIYMA and my Solobaric d-series in the same enclosure. I should be able to get most of that space from inside the cubby so I won't have to come out very far to get the .88ft^3 I need. 



> Trade-n-games said:
> 
> 
> > I also hope you removed the back speaker holder tray and put some sound damp behind it? I am getting ready to start the build on my 08 VW R32 and my trunk is close but I have the stock battery in the trunk so my floor pan is way different. Did all of it make a huge improvement to the sound in the rear?
> ...


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Looks good so far. I've been a VW enthusiast since about 87, and have had a '70 bug, '80 rabbit and my gf had a 90 or 92 Jetta...they were all used and they were all crap. But that was also when they were known to have issues (the '80, especially). 

I love the styling on the new GTI and Jetta, but my problem isn't so much with the construction of the cars as the fact that the dealers in our state (and most other states from what I hear) suck, they are HORRIBLE as far as service goes, they won't cover anything under warranty without a fight. I don't want to have to deal with that everytime I have an issue. If I could find a dealer near me that wasn't crappy, I'd be very interested in a new Jetta...

Glad to hear you are having better luck with yours. 

Jay


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Looks good. That's a 10", correct?


Yeah, that's a 10" SEAS SW250. It sounded very nice with such a small cabin. It didn't last long though, the owner (a friend) sold the car in 6 months (from new). :laugh:

Happy new year everyone (first 2009 post for me over here)!


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

quality_sound said:


>


Nice car. Have you considered tinting the windows? It would look slick.

Looks like a good plan for the build. I'd like to hear it when you're done.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I had the windows on my 07 Rabbit (it looked exactly like my GTI here) and I prefer them untinted. Plus Germany has weird tinting rules and I hear I might not be able to tint at all over there. Worst case, if I decide to tint I'll do it over there.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

n_olympios said:


> Here's a side enclosure built for a GTi by a friend installer:


Do you know how much space is available in the enclosure? I need about .9ft^3.


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## Attack eagle (Nov 18, 2006)

if you are taking it to germany, do not cut any metal. no holes for venting kicks etc...

that is a violation of TUV.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Thanks for the heads up. I'm not cutting anything though, especially into the frame rails. Midbasses will go in the OEM locations or something like the pods Bing made on the front of the doors for one of his installs.


My new dilemma, according to the manual a d-series Solo 12 needs a .88ft^3 GROSS enclosure for up to 425 Watts and .66ft^3 for up to 600 Watts. I'm pretty sure it'll be getting 500-ish. The problem is making an enclosure that small in the side panel. I wanted it to be mostly Birch ply but that's gonna be damn near impossible. I guess I'm going to have to do a lot of glass and maybe a Birch bottom. 

I'm kinda tempted at this point to just make a wedge, stick it behind the seat and call it a day. lol


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, screw it, I wanted it in the cubby and I wanted a wood floor and back and that's what I'm doing. I REALLY wanted a lot more wood but even with bringing the side panel out only 2" I'm still over 1ft^3 and even .88ft^3 is larger than Kicker recommends for the S12d with the power I'm going to be running. 

What I'm going to do is cut the bottom to the how I want it and then glass the back and rear edge (by the hatch opening) with 2 or 3 layers of Knytex then make my ring and stretch my mold fabric over the whole deal, kind of a two-piece FG enclosure. If it's a but too big I'll just fill it with whatever to take up some space if needed. I'm just nervous about making it too small. I think that if I bring the floor piece out as far as necessary and make a gradual angle to the termination point worst case, it'll still be a but big, but not enough to make it unworkable. 

Ideas, comments, tips?

Thanks guys!


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Do you know how much space is available in the enclosure? I need about .9ft^3.


I can find out within the next couple of days for you.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

IT HAS BEGUN!!!!

Got the first layer of Knytex down as well assome 3/4oz mat in the areas the Knytex didn't bend into very well. I'll get some pics up in a few hours after I come down off of this high and I can work a camera again. 

Because it's cold as balls, well I guess 44 degrees isn't really cold as balls...so cold as taint, I have my heat gun running in the car as well to heat it up some and speed the process up a bit.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

IT HAS BEGUN!!!!

Got the first layer of Knytex down as well assome 3/4oz mat in the areas the Knytex didn't bend into very well. I'll get some pics up in a few hours after I come down off of this high and I can work a camera again. 

Because it's cold as balls, well I guess 44 degrees isn't really cold as balls...so, cold as taint, I have my heat gun running in the car as well to heat it up some and speed the process up a bit.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

First --- PAM is the best mold release EVER!!!! I've NEVER had a piece remove so easily. 

Second...PICS!! Right now it is just one layer of Knytex and one layer of 3/4 oz. mat and it's already pretty solid, but oddly flexible. It's weird. I'm thinking the resin hasn't cured 100% since it was colder than recommended but since I'm going to do at least another 4 layers of Knytex with stiffeners (rope, stir stick, etc) I'm not too concerned. I bought 4 yards so I might as well use it.  I did find one bubble between the two layers so I'll have to either cut the top layer and relay it, no biggie.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

mSaLL150 said:


> Nice car. Have you considered tinting the windows? It would look slick.
> 
> Looks like a good plan for the build. I'd like to hear it when you're done.


Here's what my Rabbit looked like tinted:


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## M1A1 (Oct 4, 2008)

Mmmm, fiberglass resin fumes and PAM cooking spray smell, that's gonna be one tasty enclosure!

I've been following this for a while as my buddy has a GTI that he hasn't done any work to yet... He gets back from Iraq in July and I'd like to have a few ideas ready for him. Ideas/drivers/equipment. Probably won't use a processor, but 2-way + sub is the driver plan. Really looking forward to seeing that sub box finished.

And it is 0 degrees here right now. Zero.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

2-Way??? Where are you going to put the mids? For a 2-Way setup look for a couple of threads in the build logs forum by simplicityinsound. 

Zero, huh? Makes me glad I can't get PRP so I can't work a nuke base like Minot. lol


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Looking good Paul. Glad to see that you actually did some work on it this weekend. LOL!!!

Zach


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

I agree on the 2-way. Not a good idea on the MKV's. The OEM midbass driver goes right into your arse and total kills any good staging you would have.

Ideally with a 2-way a kick panel (which loses the dead pedal) or doing it like bing would be the only way to really keep any kind of decent install. 3-way is much easier only because you can use the OEM locations without much trouble/modding. I went 2-way for a long while and got so sick of losing my entire right side of the stage as soon as some one rode in the passenger seat or I put my backpack on that seat.


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## M1A1 (Oct 4, 2008)

Sorry, should have elaborated! We would not be using the stock location for the mid but would be building pods, slightly different than shown on here I think. Still a ways off in the future, but like I said, if I have some decent ideas of a simple 3-way install for him, he might reconsider. Hell, we haven't even started picking drivers yet!

/hijack

Any more progress on that cake, err, fiberglass box?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

As luck would have it...YES! I only did a single layer of Knytex today but I also got my rope laid. Yes, I said rope. Some use nylon, I prefer cotton, it REALLY soaks up the resin and locks in. I've been going slow because it's so cold and it was raining today. Rather than mix the resin too hot and risk bubbles and cracks I got creative with my heat gun and mixed it in the cold weather ratio. Tomorrow should be almost 60 degrees so I'm going to try and get 2 more layers done as well as chuck some paint stir stick in there. Can't be too solid. I'm shooting for 5 layers before I start on the front half and I'm looking to get the front stretched by Saturday and a good 3 or 4 layers of Knytex by the end of the weekend. 

Now on to the pics!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

In other news, I did my horribly ugly temp install on the TBI HDSS tweeters and HOLY GOD...I'm only using the included caps so it's definitely brighter than ut shoudl be but right now, piercing and brittle come to mid. I'm 100% that it's because they're being powered off the HU on the same channels as the L4s but at lower volumes it's not bad. They also haven't broken in at all so I'll revisit this in a couple of weeks. I also have to try out my L1s and CDT TW19s. 

On the plus side the lack of top end extension I noted in my room is gone in the car. They're also efficient as hell as they completely overpower the L4s right now.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> On the plus side the lack of top end extension I noted in my room is gone in the car. They're also efficient as hell as they completely overpower the L4s right now.


isnt this a standard thing when it comes to room versus in car?

laid back almost dull sounding speakres usually sound nice and warm and detailed in the car

detailed sounding in room speakres tend to buzz your ears off in the car


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah but I've NEVER seen it this different. I totally discounted them in my room but in the car they almost sound like a bad metal dome...again off of HU power and nothing but a cap to cross them over at 3.5KHz and nothing for the top end of the L4.


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## Irishfocus06 (Sep 11, 2008)

Looks like it is coming along nicely. 

Car looks sexay as hell too! 

Tan deadening? Interesting!


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## jonnyanalog (Nov 14, 2007)

Quality- you could also add sand to the resin if you want to thicken it up and make the box more solid.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I thought about that but I don't want to risk affecting how well the Knytex soaks it up. I might do a layer of resin/sand before the "shake" layer.


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

I think the Whole "Rope " thing has been questioned before....I honestly do not see a real reason to use it as opposed to a Duraglass or something allong things lines after multiple layers of mat has been laid....you can also use MDF sheets in flat areas.


Either way I am glad that you are getting things done.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

It's only to create ridges since Knytex is MUCH stronger when it has some bends and curves in it. I will also be doing a layer of Duraglass, well the Duraglass "shake" anyway, and possibly some straight Duraglass. I also have some stir sticks I'll be adding to the piece to stiffen it up even further. Totally overkill but that's not really a bad thing.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

holly cow, thats a tiny hatch if those tiny zuki amps look so big in it. im only assuming theres even less space in a rabbit?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Pseudonym said:


> holly cow, thats a tiny hatch if those tiny zuki amps look so big in it. im only assuming theres even less space in a rabbit?


The only difference between the Rabbit and GTI is the drivetrain, seats, and steering wheel.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Pseudonym said:


> holly cow, thats a tiny hatch if those tiny zuki amps look so big in it. im only assuming theres even less space in a rabbit?


That's the first time I've ever heard anyone refer to the ELEETS 4 channels as "tiny." Do you run McIntosh amps or something? LOL!!

I'm with Paul on the rope thing. It only allows you to break up flat areas to increase the strength of the glass with minimal layers. 

Zach


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## Trade-n-games (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks for the inspiration with your car. Good news on my 08 VW R32 is my trunk floor pan is a lot different after I had it all apart last night. My battery is factory in the trunk so all I have is the bump that’s under the spare tire and the rest is almost flat/as low as where the spare sits so I will have a lot more room. I have to work around a fuse panel in the corner of the trunk but other than that I think I am going to go false floor built up about 3 inches and I can build mostly out of MDF a sub box with 1.25 foot airspace for my Polk SR 12 and my amp will be on the other side of the floor flush. I will still have my jack in place also so I can at least get the tire off if I get a flat.
Now I need to decide on my front doors-3way sound great so far


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

Boostedrex said:


> That's the first time I've ever heard anyone refer to the ELEETS 4 channels as "tiny." Do you run McIntosh amps or something? LOL!!
> 
> Zach


i was using a tru t-4.100 before i got the zuki so theres a considerable size difference. and all my previous amps have been much larger. i dont know what id do with all the extra space if i went with pdx sized amps.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I know what I'd do with the space...keep my spare.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

u should get a mid/tweet combo thats got a passive and eliminate the 3rd amp. also, ive been toying around with the idea of creating a box that doubles as the back of the seat which would essentially free up all the space in the hatch area. u could add foam/padding and upholster it and make it just as comfortable as the stock seatback. u could even mount the amps to it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Whether I run 2 or 3 amps I'd still lose the spare...unless I want to raise the floor 4 or 5 inches.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

or u can use my idea and replace the backseat and retain the stock hatch in its entirety.


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## Cryptic1911 (Dec 10, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Whether I run 2 or 3 amps I'd still lose the spare...unless I want to raise the floor 4 or 5 inches.


thats what AAA is for :laugh:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

GEICO and USAA both have road side assistance and in Germany they have trucks that drive up and down the highways to help stranded motorists. I'm fine without it I think, it's just the thought of not having it. Then again, I've only ever needed a spare once...and that time it was flat. lol

Psuedonym - I'm not going to replace my seatback. I commute 80 miles round trip every day with my 8 and 12 year old girls in the back seat.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

theyd love it. it'd be like a personal masseuse everytime they ride in the car.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The way I build my boxes they'd never even feel it. At least not from the enclosure.  It IS a cool idea, jut not one I'm willing to try right now.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

is there space under that part of the floor for a box or are u building a box above the floor?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

VW was nice enough to put all of the smog stuff under the spare tire well necessitating a HUGE hump in the well. If not for that I'd have done a floor sub with the amps around it. The sub box I'm building now is going on the driver's side and goes all the way to the hatch sheetmetal.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

side firing like that picture that was posted earlier?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Pretty much.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

u ever consider a stacked amp arrangement? if u dropped the amp count down to 2 then youd be able to mount an amp on either side of the hatch or across the back seats or even across the floor above the spare.

edit: nevermind, i just looked again at how that trunk area is set up.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah, the flat hump really screwed up my plan. If it had a flat well like all the new VWs it would have been cake. Sub in the well, an amp on either side and one up front. Hell, I would have been able to do dual 12s or even some small box 15s.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I finally remembered to look at this thread while I was at home. The box is coming along nicely Paul. You still stopping by this weekend for some more ring fabrication? I think there is gonna be another local guy coming by to BS/work/listen for a while too.

Zach


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yep, I'll be over. just let me know when.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

Just an FYI, Paul, the RS225 is a tight fit. I did an OD of 8 7/8" for the baffles (2" total) and neither of my door panels fit quite right...about a 1/8" gap from the door. They're stuck there pretty good, but I'm going to redo the baffles at some point and do 8.75" and hope that the width is what is causing it...seems like it's hitting on the corner of the baffles closest to the sail panel, but I can't get a good visual to be sure. That or I might look at a little shallower midbass and do 1.75" of baffle.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

I think there is always a gap on the door skins. They don't actually sit right against the sheet metal of the door. I thought I messed something up on mine the first time I had the door skin off, but turns out that's how it is stock. The skin just kind of "floats" on the clips rather than being right up tight against the sheet metal. It makes sense, should keep rattles from the door card/sheet metal down.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

Hmm, maybe...but after I had done the passenger side, I compared it to the driver...and there was a definite difference. Maybe I'm that much futher out...I'll check the rear doors tonight.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

Please do actually. Now you've got me thinking. I know I don't have anything hitting, but maybe the clips screwed up on me some how. I'm nearly certain that I checked a different MKV that was the same though. Bout a 1/8th to a 1/16th is what I remember. 

Let me know what you find out.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

chadillac3 said:


> Just an FYI, Paul, the RS225 is a tight fit. I did an OD of 8 7/8" for the baffles (2" total) and neither of my door panels fit quite right...about a 1/8" gap from the door. They're stuck there pretty good, but I'm going to redo the baffles at some point and do 8.75" and hope that the width is what is causing it...seems like it's hitting on the corner of the baffles closest to the sail panel, but I can't get a good visual to be sure. That or I might look at a little shallower midbass and do 1.75" of baffle.


Chad - My rings are MAYBE 1/16" larger than the driver's OD. I remember someone (probably you) telling me it was a squeeze. I'm GOING to get these in.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

darcness said:


> Please do actually. Now you've got me thinking. I know I don't have anything hitting, but maybe the clips screwed up on me some how. I'm nearly certain that I checked a different MKV that was the same though. Bout a 1/8th to a 1/16th is what I remember.
> 
> Let me know what you find out.


Hmm, I don't remember a gap but I've only had the panels on my old Rabbit off once and I haven't had these off yet. I'll be sure to let you know what I find.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

I don't see a gap on my rear doors; only thing I could think is that maybe the plugs need to be replaced for them to fit right. Your rings will be the same size as mine; they're juuuust bigger than the OD of the RS225s.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

You might be right about the plugs. One time use only type of thing. I know when we took them off my buddies Rabbit in this cold, 3 of the clips got pretty jacked up and 2 were unusable. Now the gap on his door is larger.

Quality, let me know what you find. I'm intrigued now to see if I need to buy some new clips. If so, you guys happen to know where to source them? ECS tuning maybe?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Just get them at the dealer. They're less than $.50


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

Will do. Did you have a small gap between your door cards and the sheet metal from the factory? Curious because some say yes, some no.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I haven't looked yet. Was busy pulling my 505 and suffering with FM radio and the OEM speakers until my 510 gets here.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> Chad - My rings are MAYBE 1/16" larger than the driver's OD. I remember someone (probably you) telling me it was a squeeze. I'm GOING to get these in.


Gee, I wonder where you got those rings? Probably from a guy who's wallet say's "Bad Mutha F'er" on it. ROFL!!!!

The rings for Paul's RS225's are dead at 8.76". I'm anal and measure 3 times, then sanded them a touch more to make sure.

Zach


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

New pics...and it fits!!! Yes, there are some air pockets but they're in the last layer which was just there to smooth out the inside. I know I didn't NEED to...OCD...it's a *****.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

darcness said:


> You might be right about the plugs. One time use only type of thing. I know when we took them off my buddies Rabbit in this cold, 3 of the clips got pretty jacked up and 2 were unusable. Now the gap on his door is larger.
> 
> Quality, let me know what you find. I'm intrigued now to see if I need to buy some new clips. If so, you guys happen to know where to source them? ECS tuning maybe?


Ok, there is a small gap on the door panels from the factory. It looks to be 1/16" to 1/8", I didn't measure it but it is there so you guys can relax.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Lookin' good Paul. I'll be looking forward to seeing it in person tomorrow. 

I got a full layer on the front side of my passenger side box today, so I'm on track to have it finished by Sunday morning and ready for listening later that same day.

Do you have any resin tubs bigger than 16oz? If so, could you bring one over for me please? I only have 16oz tubs and that's no where near big enough for a milkshake to coat the inside of a sub box. Thanks in advance bro.

Zach


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah, I've got 32oz tubs. Reusable plastic FTW! lol Shoot me a text and let me know when on Sunday. I'm gonna get the RS225s in tomorrow.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

what kind of airspace are u looking at with that enclosure?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Not totally sure yet. When I did the original math I was getting about a cube or so, so I'm thinking right in that ballpark. I"m going to set the ring or front baffle (I haven't decided which way I want to do it yet) deep enough for a DIYMA to fit so I can test my DIYMA in there was well as a Mag and my S12d.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

Looking good quality. And thanks for setting me straight on the doors. I knew I wasn't going crazy. Well, maybe I am, but that's unrelated.

By baffle or ring you mean you haven't decided if you're going to glass the whole box yet correct? 

Also, do you think you'll loose some output by mounting the box side firing as opposed to back firing? I would love to get some glass work in, but I've never liked anything but a rear firing sub. However, I trust your opinion more than mine when it comes to SQ installs. :laugh:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

darcness said:


> Looking good quality. And thanks for setting me straight on the doors. I knew I wasn't going crazy. Well, maybe I am, but that's unrelated.
> 
> By baffle or ring you mean you haven't decided if you're going to glass the whole box yet correct?
> 
> Also, do you think you'll loose some output by mounting the box side firing as opposed to back firing? I would love to get some glass work in, but I've never liked anything but a rear firing sub. However, I trust your opinion more than mine when it comes to SQ installs. :laugh:


I'm really just trying to decide if I want to do all glass or make as much of the front out of Birch as I can. I would still do a layer of Knytex over the Birch to even everything out though. It really just comes down to how it'll look. The down side to a Birch baffle is it'll eat up a lot of space, but would be faster, at the same time it'll have just a flat front on it. I'm just really undecided on it right now. 

Corner loaded like it is is MUCH better than a basic box in the hatch firing toward the rear. It couples with the car a lot better. Same as corner loading a sub in your living room.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

Very nice! Although I think the FG is a bit thin for my liking. Also, I think it'd be better to not cut it in the shape but continue outwards with the FG, then you'd be able to blend it better with the other sides. 

I don't know if this makes any sense, this is the way we did it in my car a few years ago: 










then we cut it in the correct size: 










and added the baffle: 










Still it wasn't perfect but hey...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The pics are deceiving. There's 5-6 layers of Knytex and some 3/4 mat as well. It's no less than 1/4" thick in any area and quite a bit more than that in others. You can stand on it and it doesn't flex. 

It's also cut to the final shape. It's trimmed a but small on purpose. I did that so that it'll be able to be finished and still be able to be installed and removed. As it is it barely fits now.  
I haven't decided if I'm going to do the front like you did or just do a ring and wrap the whole deal yet. The ring method will leave me more internal volume but the baffle style (like yours) will be faster and probably a bit stronger.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

I see what you mean. Yeah, in my case the front side would be too large for a ring wrapped in carpet. It's more than a meter long. 

It ain't light either hehe. 

I just remembered I have to ask what size the enclosure I posted before is. I'll do it tomorrow.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

n_olympios said:


> I see what you mean. Yeah, in my case the front side would be too large for a ring wrapped in carpet. It's more than a meter long.
> 
> It ain't light either hehe.
> 
> I just remembered I have to ask what size the enclosure I posted before is. I'll do it tomorrow.


You can still do a ring with a meter long span, it'll just be really thick and you'll have to make sure to really reinforce it well. BUt your way was MUCH faster. lol


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

My vote goes to the ring/tons of glass method.  Probably because I don't own a jigsaw worth a damn so I can only make rings or anything else I can use my routers on. ROFL!! Also, more internal airspace can only be a good thing since it will leave your options open for that many more subs down the road.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

Since when does more work keep you from doing the good ****?

Glass it bud.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah, I now. But the baffle would have been 3/4 to start with and then a couple layers of Knytex over it. lol 

But rings and 'glass it'll be. Just finished getting the RS225s in the doors and they were an EASY fit. Anyone with a MkV and wants 8s, ask away.

BTW, 12 gauge into a VW door...SUCKED. Well, the molexes and the kick panel on the driver's side sucked. Drilling and running was easy.

Pics up later.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> Yeah, I now. But the baffle would have been 3/4 to start with and then a couple layers of Knytex over it. lol
> 
> But rings and 'glass it'll be. Just finished getting the RS225s in the doors and they were an EASY fit. Anyone with a MkV and wants 8s, ask away.
> 
> ...



They went with molex connections in the doors now? That's ghetto, the Passat is so easy.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

I had to Dremel/drill out the plug holding the driver side kick panel in place. I could NOT get it out. Molexs themselves are easy. 

BTW, does your door panel fit on snug? My baffle is only 1/8" more on the diameter than the OD of the driver (8 7/8 on the baffles) and the panels aren't snug back by the woofer...still trying to figure out if it's the plug or something is hitting.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

I suppose it would be relevant to add my car is an 08 Jetta Wolfsburg...but I'd imagine the front door panels would be identical.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Yeah, I now. But the baffle would have been 3/4 to start with and then a couple layers of Knytex over it. lol
> 
> But rings and 'glass it'll be. Just finished getting the RS225s in the doors and they were an EASY fit. Anyone with a MkV and wants 8s, ask away.
> 
> ...


Agreed. I've done my car and a 4 door rabbit and that damn kick panel trim is a major pain in the ass to get off. Once you get the panels off though, things couldn't be easier. I ended up taking the outer door skins off on the Rabbit as well. I really like how everything is tidy and sealed up. Plenty of grommets to use, zip tie points to mount to, and easy to do a nice, clean wire job. In my car I didn't go through the factory wiring harness, but did on the Rabbit. This summer when I take my GTI back apart to do the deadening, I'll do it through the OEM harness by drilling out a couple channels for my wiring.

Glad to hear the RS225's fit so easily. They will be my next driver for sure. Now that I've got my RS100's dialed in, I'm a Dayton fan. They sound great. 

Looking forward to the finished product quality, awesome work so far.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

chadillac3 said:


> I had to Dremel/drill out the plug holding the driver side kick panel in place. I could NOT get it out. Molexs themselves are easy.


I had to do some searching and while it's not hard, it's a PITA because the fit over the handle is so damned tight. Where I was struggling was getting the cover off of the molex on the body side of the jamb. After that it was cake. 



> BTW, does your door panel fit on snug? My baffle is only 1/8" more on the diameter than the OD of the driver (8 7/8 on the baffles) and the panels aren't snug back by the woofer...still trying to figure out if it's the plug or something is hitting.


The door panel has a 1/16"-1/8" gap all around, as did my Rabbit and my brother's Rabbit. It's normal. If your'e worried about being snug, do what I did. Pull the Styrofoam out of the door panel (there's not glue or anything, just pressure fit and one SMALL tab) and remove the ring that seals the door panel to the midbass. I had to because of the depth of the rings I used. 



chadillac3 said:


> I suppose it would be relevant to add my car is an 08 Jetta Wolfsburg...but I'd imagine the front door panels would be identical.


Nah, all MkVs are the same.



darcness said:


> Agreed. I've done my car and a 4 door rabbit and that damn kick panel trim is a major pain in the ass to get off. Once you get the panels off though, things couldn't be easier. I ended up taking the outer door skins off on the Rabbit as well. I really like how everything is tidy and sealed up. Plenty of grommets to use, zip tie points to mount to, and easy to do a nice, clean wire job. In my car I didn't go through the factory wiring harness, but did on the Rabbit. This summer when I take my GTI back apart to do the deadening, I'll do it through the OEM harness by drilling out a couple channels for my wiring.


I ran through the molex out of the seal on the door side (since you physically can't go any further) then through the next grommet on to the inside of the panel all the way back to grommet by the midbass and then to the midbass. This way I don't have to worry about the wire catching on the window. 



> Glad to hear the RS225's fit so easily. They will be my next driver for sure. Now that I've got my RS100's dialed in, I'm a Dayton fan. They sound great.
> 
> Looking forward to the finished product quality, awesome work so far.


Pics will be up in a bit so this will all make sense.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

What I started with:

















Drilled out rivets:









The empty space that will soon be filled to the brim like a cheap stripper:









The removed driver with it's replacement:

















Holes stuffed:


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Crappy pic showing the 12 gauge running into the molex:

















Door panel wouldn't fit with the OEM midbass seal in place. So I pulled that and the foam next to it:

























Door panels deadened:

















FYI for you MkV guys...I have a 2" spacer and there's AT LEAST another 1.5" between the 225 and the door panel with the foam and seal removed. Let that sink in for a minute...yes, I have no doubt a 10" midbass could be put in the doors of a MkV.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Oh, in case you were wondering, those black triangle next to the midbasses are the OEM crossovers.

I also forgot to mention that I added a couple Deflex pads behind the midbasses as well. Forgot to take pics of them though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

A note on the rings, they're attached to the doors with six #8-24 2.5" long stainless steel bolts with washers and Nylock nuts on the backside. They're not going anywhere. 2" stainless steel #8 screws hold the 225s into the rings. I didn't want to just do long screws to old everything in because I wanted to be able to really tighten the rings down.


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## darcness (Mar 13, 2008)

I don't doubt a 10 would fit. There was a bunch of people claiming that you can't use most 6.5's for mounting depth issues when I first starting looking at replacing speakers in my GTI. After seeing how cavernous the space is, I knew they were nuts.

You've got a ton of depth to mount using 2" spacers for sure. Hell, I even managed to get the RS100's in the OEM midrange location. As far as I'm concerned, depth is pretty much a non-issue in the MKV.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

Well I'll be damned; unless I'm crazy, I think the door panels are different...my midbass is farther back on the panel/door. No wonder it's not the same. Would make sense since my car is a 4 door, and y'all's GTIs are a 2 door. Don't get me wrong, it's similar, but not the same. My stock crossover is on the other side of the midbass. I had to remove the styrofoam piece, but it isn't nearly as big. 

Sheeit.


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## n_olympios (Oct 23, 2008)

chadillac3 said:


> my midbass is farther back on the panel/door.


Actually no, your midbass is at the exact same spot as in the GTi's door, when measuring from the front. It's just that the 3door's door (hehe) is longer.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

Soooo, the panel is different then.  There is absolutely no way a 10" would fit in my door as the baffle would extent to where the bottom corner plug mounts. My panels definitely don't fit the way they did stock, so it looks like there is enough difference to cause me a problem. Ah, well...what can ya do. I have a set of JL ZR800 midbasses on the way what hopefully will let me do 1.75" in baffles and only 8.5" of diameter...see if that fixes it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

chadillac3 said:


> Well I'll be damned; unless I'm crazy, I think the door panels are different...my midbass is farther back on the panel/door. No wonder it's not the same. Would make sense since my car is a 4 door, and y'all's GTIs are a 2 door. Don't get me wrong, it's similar, but not the same. My stock crossover is on the other side of the midbass. I had to remove the styrofoam piece, but it isn't nearly as big.
> 
> Sheeit.


I was just gonna say, on a 4-door car your door is shorter so there will be less dead space after the midbass. The basic layout is the same for the most part though. Could explain the slight differences in getting the 225s in though.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

chadillac3 said:


> Soooo, the panel is different then.  There is absolutely no way a 10" would fit in my door as the baffle would extent to where the bottom corner plug mounts. My panels definitely don't fit the way they did stock, so it looks like there is enough difference to cause me a problem. Ah, well...what can ya do. I have a set of JL ZR800 midbasses on the way what hopefully will let me do 1.75" in baffles and only 8.5" of diameter...see if that fixes it.


Actually, with a shallow 10 (BM10) it souldn't matter if it fit IN the door, it coudl fit ON the door, between the sheetmetal and the door panel. There's about 4" of room in there. Sure the subn wouldn't be centered on the opening but it would still vent into the door. 

See where I'm going with this? 

I'd love to try the JLs as well. Just to see how they compare.


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

Oh, I know what you're saying, but it's a no go for me as the diameter would not work, but depth would work.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Even if you moved the driver there still isn't room?


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## chadillac3 (Feb 3, 2006)

That's what I'm saying...I can't move the driver....well, not unless I want it firing into the door panel with no grill. I see what you're saying, but I'd have to cut a good chunck of metal.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

So cut the door panel...:rockon:


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

Those RS225's look nice on the door Paul. Hopefully they'll sound as good as they look.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, small update. My DIYMA R12 arrived...but is now 2 paperweights and I'm in the process of the FedEx claim. First time I've had an issue with FedEx but I hope to have it resolved quickly. It may have been a blessing in disguise though. Because the motor is so wide it won't really fit into the area I have available without the box sticking WAY out and then the box will be WELL over the recommended airspace. Then my S12d (yeah, last version round Solo) took a **** on me. The Mag D2 v4 is a contender but the way it takes the transfer function and runs with it concerns me. 

Soooo....anyone have some suggestions for a good/great 12" or possibly a 10" that doesn't have a massive motor structure, isn't super deep, and doesn't need a huge enclosure? I'd LOVE to run a TC OEM10 but it's about as deep as a WGTi! lol 

Ideas? 

On another note. With the decision to not run a 701 and the uncertainty of availability of the Bit One, out of necessity, I've decided to sell the Zukis (which I do NOT want to do) and have picked up a DC650.6 and a DC750.2 so I'll be able to keep the system active and reduce the number of components. Simplicity FTW!


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## Fiercetimbo17 (May 17, 2007)

What kind of deadening is that?

And good choice on the DC's, im running the 650.6 and 1100.1 and couldnt be happier once i got them connected to my laptop.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

To be honest, I don't know if the deadening is even available. There was a member here that had some he was going to bring to market and asked from some people to try it out. It works great. Not quite as good as Damp Pro and the covering layer does have a tendency to lift, but it does the job.


I'm sure I'll be very happy with the DCs, I'm just bummed I'm cutting the available power to the mid/tweet by 66% and the midbasses by 80%. I'm a power hound and I love dynamics so I'm hoping this doesn't come back to bite me in the ass...or I'll have to run a second 650.6. lol


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## Inferno333 (Mar 29, 2006)

It's gonna bite hard...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Hopefully not too bad...I guess we'll see. I'll just have to leave room in the rack just in case. 

Well, it looks like I'm going to run either a Mag, 13TW5, or a slight possibility of a Dayton HO12. The JL is only in the running because of it's size and because I can probably get a really good deal on one. I'm going to see if the Mag will fit in the areas I'm thinking of using and go from there. The JL would let me do side panel or floor which is VERY helpful and would make life easier, albeit expensive. 

I'll report back when I get back from the shop.


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## W8 a minute (Aug 16, 2007)

Paul,
You could call this company for a recone kit. They still sell the Solobaric under their name. I have 2 of the 10's and they're solid.

Credence Speakers, Inc.: CSS12D4 - Sealed box size range: .5 cu ft to 1.0 cu ft (.75 ideal)


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

why not look into a IDQV3 10 or 12?
They require small boxes have great SQ and have the output if needed. 
Can also handle the jandle regards to power, but generally not needed.

Ultimately a IDmax would have to be the ticket, but will not work for you at all due to mounting depth


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## Fiercetimbo17 (May 17, 2007)

I was worried about 100w not being enough for my midbass's, however i think that are doing great.
If you have any questions about the amps feel free to send me a pm, im still learning them but i have figured most of it.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

W8 a minute said:


> Paul,
> You could call this company for a recone kit. They still sell the Solobaric under their name. I have 2 of the 10's and they're solid.
> 
> Credence Speakers, Inc.: CSS12D4 - Sealed box size range: .5 cu ft to 1.0 cu ft (.75 ideal)


Because the ONLY thing it needs is a decent solder connection at the positive input terminal.  



glidn said:


> why not look into a IDQV3 10 or 12?
> They require small boxes have great SQ and have the output if needed.
> Can also handle the jandle regards to power, but generally not needed.


Because I want a 12 and I want to use something I haven't used before. I figured if I have to change stuff out I might as well try something new. 



> Ultimately a IDmax would have to be the ticket, but will not work for you at all due to mounting depth


And the box requirements. 

Update,

I borrowed Zach's Mag and bought a 13TW5-3 this afternoon. The price was just too good to pass up. I'm still going to play around with the Mag but the JL _really/i] opens up the location possibilities. I could even put both amps and the sub in the floor. There's also a SLIM possibility that I could finish the side panel enclosure with the sub in there put the amps on either side of the spare and leave the spare tire in the car! :surprised:_


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## saMxp (Jun 22, 2007)

darcness said:


> Glad to hear the RS225's fit so easily. They will be my next driver for sure. Now that I've got my RS100's dialed in, I'm a Dayton fan. They sound great.
> 
> Looking forward to the finished product quality, awesome work so far.


Subscribing! I'm a huge Dayton fan as well. I was hoping to use the RS125's for mids to bring down the low pass on the RS225's. They're only slight deeper than the 100's and I'm hoping they won't be much trouble to get the nearly 5" diameter to fit.

I really wish I had the fiberglass skills to pull of a sub like that! For now, I'm hoping to go subless and push the RS225's as low as they go.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I wonder how the RS125 compares to the L4 in size. If they're about the same size I 'd rock a set of them in the dash in a heartbeat. I'd have to see how their upper end is. 

Honestly, the glassing done so far is REALLY easy...and won't be used. I'm going to a floor install since the 13TW5 is so slim.


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## saMxp (Jun 22, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> I wonder how the RS125 compares to the L4 in size. If they're about the same size I 'd rock a set of them in the dash in a heartbeat. I'd have to see how their upper end is.
> 
> Honestly, the glassing done so far is REALLY easy...and won't be used. I'm going to a floor install since the 13TW5 is so slim.


The RS125 has about the same depth and cutout diamter, just a bigger flange. Don't think the upper end is anywhere near as good as the L4, though. Recommended range is 65 - 4,500 Hz.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, got the new enclosure done and the mounting boards for the amps are basically done as well. All I need to do is figure out how tall to make the supports for the false floor and I can get the hatch wired up except for the 1/0 and the Symbilink input. 

Finally, some progress. I'll have pics up tomorrow.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Welp...I'm basically done with the everything but the cover. I don't like it. It's coming up WAY too much for me. I wanted to keep the box footpring inside the spare tire well since it sits below the main floor just a bit and that forced the box to have to go up or I wouldn't have enough air space. I'm debating between finishing it like this for now and redoing it in Germany or redoing it now. Realistically the only thing I need to redo is the sub enclosure. It's about 5.5"-5.75" tall without the sub in it. The sub, if I use the grill, is an EASY inch and a half, maybe 1.75". If I do redo it I'm going to make a birch frame and then glass down into the well. The box will be WAY too big but it'll also be about 3.5" lower. Maybe even a hair lower than the stick floor.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

hehe , keeping things below the floor...welcome to my world when i did the last one with two large amps and two 10s


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yeah, but yours are way prettier so it's ok if it's hard. Mine's being a PITA...AND it's gonna be ugly.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, update time. I got the new enclosure framed and the first couple of layer os Knytex down. It's _considerably_ shorter than the all wood enclosure but it is longer and will house two 13TW5-3s and it'll be _heavily_ stuffed to get up to the necessary 1.6ft^3 net I need. I'll get pics up tomorrow or Wednesday.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, still no pics but I did make some progress. All of the cables are run into the hatch. I got some OEM repair wires, soldered RCA ends on, removed the speaker wires from the harness and inserted the new RCA terminated wires into the OEM harness.  These run into the Symbilink transmitters and then into the hatch. I ran a USB cable into the glove box for up front tuning. I heatshrinked the USB ends together to make sure they didn't work themselves loose. I was going to do that with the Symbilink cables as well but those were more than tight enough. 

Oh, and for other MkV owners, 1/0 is a piece of cake in this car. I have 1/0, one 12-gauge, and two 16-gauge wires,and the remote turn on wire going down the drivers side and the same speaker wires, two Symbilink, and one USB going down the passenger side and there's still a ton of room in there. The trick to take the seats out. You can do it without taking them but it's easier when you can move the carpet around and out of the way. 

Going through the firewall was easy as well.I used the OEM grommet that would be be for the clutch. I wen with DSG so I just popped it out, cut my hole, and voila, 1/0 into the cabin. Only PITA right now is the connection at the battery. I had to cut out a few OEM wire retainers and I need to go get a nut that fits the bolts that are in there but I'm going to tap off of the OEM bus bar on the front of the fuse panel right next to the battery.


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## BodegaBay (Dec 16, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> ...I got some OEM repair wires, soldered RCA ends on, removed the speaker wires from the harness and inserted the new RCA terminated wires into the OEM harness.  These run into the Symbilink transmitters and then into the hatch...


Interesting. Can you tell (or post pics) me more about this method? I thought a LOC was required since with the RNS?

BTW, are you using the CleanSweep? It just looks like you sent the signal straight to Symbilink then DC amps, correct? I've read from MTech (Technic) that the RNS was fairly flat and had no EQ. I don't have a RTA to confirm but I checked with my VAG COM last night and there were options to change the EQ settings from "EQ: Linear" to "EQ: xxxx [xxx= other VW cars interiors]."

Thanks for the tip on wiring for MkV owners. 

What do you think of the RNS so far?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

BodegaBay said:


> Interesting. Can you tell (or post pics) me more about this method? I thought a LOC was required since with the RNS?
> 
> BTW, are you using the CleanSweep? It just looks like you sent the signal straight to Symbilink then DC amps, correct? I've read from MTech (Technic) that the RNS was fairly flat and had no EQ. I don't have a RTA to confirm but I checked with my VAG COM last night and there were options to change the EQ settings from "EQ: Linear" to "EQ: xxxx [xxx= other VW cars interiors]."
> 
> ...


I didn't gt any pics but basically all you're doing it removing the original wires from the harness and using VW repair wires in their place. Each repair wire comes with two ends. Cut the wire in half and you have two wires. I twisted mine together but you don't have to. Then solder the ends onto an RCA end. I used some jacks from Radio Shack. 4 pack (perfect for 4-channels) for $2 or so. Then I connected the Symbilink transmitters and ran the Symbilink cables.

You don't need an LOC with a 510 because when you program it for "Volkswagen Sound System" it reduces the outputs to line level.  The one advantage you do get with an LOC is a signal sensing remote turn on as opposed to what I did. See below.

The one thing I don't like it the 510 has NO remote turn on of any kind. Everything is CAN-BUS controlled so I had to go to the fuse panel.  But an "Add-a-fuse" worked perfectly in one of the open slots. The only real down side to this is that the amps will be on anytime the car is on vs. only when the radio is on.

Yes, the built in EQ can be defeated. I have mine set to "Linear" as well. Of note, the 510 has a hidden setup menu. You need to access this to turn the loudness function off. 

As for the 510 it's everything I wanted my W505 to be. My only issues with it so far are, it turn the "MIX" mode off every time it powers down and it turns off when I turn the car off vs. when the key is removed like the Premium 6 did. I had something else but it's slipped my mind. Overall this HU kicks all kinds of ass and it sounds better than my 505 did as well.


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## GeoffB (Feb 3, 2007)

^ Thats interesting i did not know that, its something i may have to look into myself.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

RNS 510 Navi System - VWnavi.com


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## GeoffB (Feb 3, 2007)

Thanks i will take a good look round on there, I use to be on there but forgot about the site after my computer got a virus and lost my favourates list.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

And here's where we are now:


































Subs are NOT screwed in yet since it dropped them in at 11PM just to see how it all looked. I did stuff the box though. I Also still have to tidy up a few cables and then figure out where my distro blocks are going. My original though may or may not work out. We'll see tomorrow. Functionally all I have left is distro and my battery connection and we're rockin'. Should go quickly tomorrow.


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## reindeers (Mar 7, 2008)

Subscribed...


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## jboz (Feb 16, 2008)

Paul, Great work on the rear hatch install. It is looking very nice so far.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Sounds pretty good too. Levels are all kinds of out of whack right now though. I just set everything the same and rolled with it until I get a chance to tune it.


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## Pntbtrjly (Feb 6, 2009)

Any chance you'd want to sell the first glass job you did for the hatch? Have a 2007 GTI that it would work in. Don't see depth problems as I;ll be mounting motor out, hopefully.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Funny, I was actually thinking about that. It's not finished though. Right now it's just the back and the rings. Let me know if you want it.


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## mSaLL150 (Aug 14, 2008)

Those JLs are sexy. I bet it makes things easy since they are only 2.5 deep. How much airspace are they sitting in?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

A stuffed 1.3-ish. If my math is right they'll be seeing 1.9-ish with the stuffing.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

lookin good, though personally, i prolly would ahve used just a sginle 13tw5...i think even with stuffing, you will limit their low end a bit with this enclosure...but we will see  did you power it on yet? hows the sub-30hz?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I'm still working through some issues (either a pinched wire or the level on the Symbilink transmitter is too high) but as soon as I get it sorted out I'll let you know. A couple of tracks rock pretty good so I think I'll be ok, but I'll get the test tones going hopefully by the weekend.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> I'm still working through some issues (either a pinched wire or the level on the Symbilink transmitter is too high) but as soon as I get it sorted out I'll let you know. A couple of tracks rock pretty good so I think I'll be ok, but I'll get the test tones going hopefully by the weekend.



When are you coming to Florida, I could use an extra hand building my trunk 

I pay in beer, but you sleep on the curb, watch out for the garbage men...no not the band.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

does the stock vw headunit have any kind of subwoofer level control? i picked up some dc ref stuff to integrate to oem headunit and am keeping an eye on this thread. i love stealth installs. thanks for the inspiration.

p.s. i'm not a vw guy, but it looks SWEET slammed on the phaetons.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

bass_lover1 said:


> When are you coming to Florida, I could use an extra hand building my trunk
> 
> I pay in beer, but you sleep on the curb, watch out for the garbage men...no not the band.


I'm getting ready to PCS to Germany so I won't be in Florida any time soon. lol



simplyclean said:


> does the stock vw headunit have any kind of subwoofer level control? i picked up some dc ref stuff to integrate to oem headunit and am keeping an eye on this thread. i love stealth installs. thanks for the inspiration.


No sub level control but I have the subs on the rear output so I can use the fader as a psuedo sub level control. 



> p.s. i'm not a vw guy, but it looks SWEET slammed on the phaetons.


Thanks!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

quality_sound said:


> I'm getting ready to PCS to Germany so I won't be in Florida any time soon. lol



Dammit!!


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

if you run DC amps, you can use a slb-u transmitter to act as a sub volum control regardless if the HU has such a thing or not


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I think I might be adding one of those later on.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

son. of. a. *****. 

I think I finally figured out the noise problem. I redid the RCA connections on the OEM wiring I added and STILL had noise. For some reason I tried one front RCA and one rear RCA and I was able to get the volume up a bit more. When I only used one (didn't matter which one) RCA I could go all the way up and the clarity was markedly improved. 

So, it's been a while but I'm thinking I have common grounds and that I'll HAVE to use and LOC. 

Thoughts?


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> son. of. a. *****.
> 
> I think I finally figured out the noise problem. I redid the RCA connections on the OEM wiring I added and STILL had noise. For some reason I tried one front RCA and one rear RCA and I was able to get the volume up a bit more. When I only used one (didn't matter which one) RCA I could go all the way up and the clarity was markedly improved.
> 
> ...


One word. Navone.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Can you even get those anymore?


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## dakar8 (Apr 23, 2008)

subscribed, really like the install so far


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

norcalsfinest said:


> One word. Navone.


Ordered an LOC from Navone. It's a new piece not on the site yet but it's a 4-channel LOC with a built in remote turn on generator. Dave said it was the same, quality-wise, as his NE-774V but with the added turn-on generator. It ships today so I should have it tomorrow. Once it's in I'll report back.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

well, my next customer has decided against using hte 510, mainly becuaes all the add on peripheral pieces are so expensive and the true SQ portion of the unit is an unknown...

what exactly is happening right now thats making you try to diagnose it?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The SQ is fine. It sounds better than my 505 did. 

The issue were kind of odd. When I'd get over a certain volume point I'd start getting a lot of popping/static sounding noise and if I went up any higher channels would drop out. Bass also was incredibly distorted.

Hmmm...got the idea to try my Ipod straight in. Perfect sound. Ok, it's definitely HU related.

At first I thought it was my less than passable soldering skills with the RCA ends I added so I swapped them for non-solder ends, still there.

Tried only the front outputs, still there. Same with the rear only. Ok, now I'm pissed. I got the idea to try one front and one rear and now I could go higher on the volume but the problem was still there. 

This got me thinking, maybe it's a common ground (even though it's a 4-wire pair) so I tried one RCA, perfection. Full volume, perfect clarity, no distortion, and the bass was fine. 

Crap, gotta add an LOC.

Talked with Dave Navone and according to him it's getting increasingly common to have 4-wire common ground setups. So I ordered a new 4-channel LOC he has (his new high-end one) with a built-in remote turn-on generator. 

I KNOW this will work because I know others with 510s and LOCs that work fine, I was just hoping to avoid it.

But yes, the add-ons are expensive. I paid a grand for the TV Free module, the MDI kit and the Bluetooth module but two of the three are literally plug and play and the MDI kit (OEM) is a simple install. The best part is all three of these work perfectly, every time, interface with the 510, steering wheel controls, and the MFD (cluster display). IMO nothing aftermarket even comes close to this level of integration. Not to mention, I can code the 510 for DVDs from ANY region. When I got it it was region two so I couldn't watch any of my DVDs. A quick reprogram to region one and life is wonderful and the screen has the same resolution as the W505 (which is quite good to say the least), and is a touchscreen.

The FISCON Basic-Plus BT kit and the TV Free module are from KUFATEC in Germany and the MDI "Lead version" kit is an OEM VW piece.

All I have to do now is send my 650.6 back for the power supply whine, should be no more than 4 days total with shipping, and I'll be good to go.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

cool deal, let me know hwen you get it done, i would like to take a listen for sure


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Plus the 510 fits the GTI dash infinitely better than any aftermarket radio would.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> cool deal, let me know hwen you get it done, i would like to take a listen for sure


Depending on how the power supply noise is after getting the LOC in I am tempted not to even bother sending it in. Although, for a 4 day turn around I probably should. I'm just gettign anxious. I need to get my mic ordered so I can tune properly. I suck something fierce with a parametric. 



bass_lover1 said:


> Plus the 510 fits the GTI dash infinitely better than any aftermarket radio would.


You ain't lyin'. I HAAAAATED the Metra and AI kits.


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## jboz (Feb 16, 2008)

Again, great work, Paul. You started as one of the pioneers in merging the OEM 510 with some quality aftermarket amplification and tuning, but in the end you may end up being the master once all the details are worked out. If you can solve the small issues you are having with the noise [and things are looking positive with the pending LOC installation], it looks like your route will be the preferred upgrade path for GTIs. 

Bing and I used the Alpine 505/701 in my GTI and I cant emphasize enough how much the 505 annoys me. I understand now why you swapped out your 505. The nav/hdradio/bluetooth integration just sucks and the lack of a pretty graphical interface is a waste of a 7" hi resolution screen. I dont have any complaints with the sound quality, but all those interface issues are annoying.

Luckily, the VW 510 headunit is starting to come down in price. At around $2200 just for the 510 last year, it was too expensive for my install, whereas now it is much more affordable. If I were to do it all over again with todays prices and assuming your remaining small issues are resolved, I would also have gone with a 510 feeding Zapco amps for tuning.

It's too bad for us that you will be leaving in May, although spending the next few years around Frankfurt with your family sounds pretty darn nice for you.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Very early in my build but am having the worst hair-pulling noise issue ever too. 

Thought a loc might solve my problem too but I'm pretty sure its the factory hu now.

Definately let me know when you get it going pretty good, I'd like to hear that thing with the gear your using. Mine is definately what you would conisder "budget".


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Update time,

I got my Navone LOC yesterday and got it installed today...HOE...LEE...SHIIIIIIT...this is the best LOC I've ever used. It sounds fantastic (or maybe it's the HU and the LOC isn't degrading it) and the only thing running right now are the RS225s and the TW-19s off of the 750.2 and a CDT passive. The top end gets a little edgy at higher volumes but I think it's the passives saturating. 

Crossover settings for now are HP at 50Hz, 6dB slope
EQ is +3dB at 125Hz, Q = 1.00
T/A = none for now since all the vocals are coming from the RS225s so it won't stage worth a crap anyway. 

Hopefully the RS225s will work well enough off the 100 Watt channels of the 650.6. If not I'll toss the ZR800s in since Manville's comments and their lit leads me to believe they're a kick ass low power, IB midbass. 

It's coming along nicely now.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

come down and let me take a listen yo!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

As soon as I get the 650.6 back and something resembling a base tune done on it I'll swing by. Probably won't be for a a couple of weeks though. FedEx took a half day on Friday I guess so it won't get delivered to Zapco until Monday so they can take care of the power supply coating and then it should go back out to me Tuesday and if all goes well I'll have it back on Wednesday or Thursday at the latest.


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> The top end gets a little edgy at higher volumes but I think it's the passives saturating.


Hmm... or maybe the heavy break up of the rs225 straining to play high has something to do with it? 


I'm glad the LOC worked out for you. Everything's coming along great. And have no fear in Zapco, it'll be quick. We're pretty local i guess, and their CS is off the hook! Keep up the good work, and feel free to hit me up if you need a second set of hands (or ears). I've missed out on heading up to Zach's a few times now.

-Joey


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## rockinridgeline (Feb 2, 2009)

got any finished install pics? Have a friend with the same car and we are going to dive into it when the weather warms up a bit.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

norcalsfinest said:


> Hmm... or maybe the heavy break up of the rs225 straining to play high has something to do with it?
> 
> 
> I'm glad the LOC worked out for you. Everything's coming along great. And have no fear in Zapco, it'll be quick. We're pretty local i guess, and their CS is off the hook! Keep up the good work, and feel free to hit me up if you need a second set of hands (or ears). I've missed out on heading up to Zach's a few times now.
> ...


Joey,

The TW-19s have never had an issue playing up. One of the reasons I'm using them, even if it is only temporarily, is because of that. Another reason for the breakup could be they're playing too low. I think the passive crosses the tweeter at 3500-ish and that's low for a 3/4" tweeter IMO. 

Having said all that, I am still looking for a really nice metal tweeter to mate to the L4s...and yes, I'm stuck on a small format, metal domes tweeter. I like the sparkle and shimmer you get with them.

Rob's been great for everything. He even told me I could drop the amp off instead of shipping it if I wanted to. I'm promotion testing on Tuesday morning so I might see about skating from work and picking it up Tuesday afternoon. They're even making me a longer RJ-45 cable so I can leave the amps connected together all the time and tune from the front.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

rockinridgeline said:


> got any finished install pics? Have a friend with the same car and we are going to dive into it when the weather warms up a bit.


The hatch areas is essentially done. All I need to do is make the floor cover and that's just going to look like the original but with opening for the subs. The amps will be 100% covered. 

I still need to decide on tweeters so I can finish the dash pods. Other than that the car is done.


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

where did you get your subs from? i'm looking to pick one up.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Local shop. I can get certain things locally from my old shop or shops we worked with for less than you can online.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

got a 2008 GTI 2 weeks ago, subscribed.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Semi-update, My new floor piece is going to be 3/4 Oak Ply (WAY overkill, I know) so I'm thinking about doing some 1/4 plexi or lexan. I wasn't originally going to do windows over the amps but I'm thinking what the hell.

My idea is to router out a 1/4" lip around the opening to allow the plexi to recess but still be fairly strong. Downside is I'll have to come up with a way to make it pretty. Maybe just paint the edge over the wood and silicone it in place. I would use screws but there's no real way to make that pretty. 

Idea 2 is to do the same but from the bottom. This way I could use screws to secure it but I'd have to make inserts (ok, I wouldn't HAVE to since the OEM floor cover will be going over this piece) to make it pretty and hide everything for daily use. 

If I do this I'll have to figure out how to do something over the subs as well. Can't have it not match.

Ideas or input??


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Hey could you tint the edges of the plexi where it attaches? Either tint it or make it black?

I used to do that with clear lexan with my rc cars when doing a paint job and trying to hide things or make things less visible.

EDIT: Forgot to mention it cn be done with high quality spray paint, you don't have to use actual tint film.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I usually paint the edge from underneath, just looking for some different options.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

If its on the trunk floor maybe use the butyl off of left over dampener.

It can be taken off, heated a bit and rolled then applied so it holds the plexi down and also prevents rattling/vibration.

Worked for part of my setup.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Ok, more updates:

I pulled most of the polyfill out of the box and the bass response improved dramatically. Go figure. 

Played around with the levels a but, mostly on the sub. 

Remeasured the speaker distances and did the T/A.

Now the new crossover and level settings. I'll be the first to say, I've NEVER used 6dB/Oct setting before but it's working...and quite well.

ND25a - HP 8KHz -4db
L4 - BP 175Hz <-> 4KHz -7dB
ZR800-CW - BP 60Hz <-> 150Hz 0dB
13TW5 - BP 25Hz <-> 100Hz -6 phase reversed. 

I know, the settings are all over the place with some underlap here and overlap there but it's sounding pretty good. The bass IS too fat and I know it but I need it for when the car is in motion. Parked I preferred the subs around -10dB.

I am using the Linwitz-Riley alignment instead of the Butterworth but to be honest I don't have a clue what difference it would make. I remember reading something about phase at the crossover point with one of the alignments but yeah,...I got nothing on that. lol


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## gsr22 (Jul 30, 2007)

so what are your plans for new amps/ subs?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Stealthbox and Arc Minis. 2 125.4s and a 500.1. Processing is still up in the air.


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## BodegaBay (Dec 16, 2005)

Not sure what I've missed but what happened to the DC Reference amps for the one stop shop processing? This will be your third amp change since you started the build.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Nope, second change, third set. It's what I wanted to do the first time but got anxious and stopped waiting for the Minis. Having everything all in one will be missed.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

going from DC to minis? yikes haha i mean the minis are small...but...


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Don't worry, the processing will be handled and I have no qualms with the sound of the Minis at all. Don't worry Bing, I'll bring it by so you can have a listen before I ship the car.


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

when do you leave again? before or after the santa rosa event?


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## gsr22 (Jul 30, 2007)

regardless of what your putting in im excited to see the final product


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

simplicityinsound said:


> when do you leave again? before or after the santa rosa event?


It was supposed to be around the 16th but now it looks like the 19th. I'll be shipping the car a day or two before I fly out. As soon as I know the exact date I'll let you know and we'll set something up.


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## simplyclean (Jan 23, 2009)

this is still my favorite build thread, it looked like it was almost done. did you every finish the floor? so this is going to be the 3rd amp sub set up since december... nuts!!!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Nope, never did the floor. I just built a frame and used the stock floor piece. It worked great it was just WAAAAAY too much bass for me. I could have hust scaled back to 1 13TW5 but going with the Stealthbox will get about the same amount of output but i can keep my spare. 

The next setup will really only be the second setup as I never got to use the Zukis. 

But I also have tried 4 mids, 4 tweeters, 3 midbasses, a CleanSweep, an LOC, two HUs and I THINK that's it. Just trial and error stuff. Yeah it's expensive but learning what works well in your car isn't always cheap.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Paul, where exactly are you going?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Germany, baby.  3 years of VW goodness.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

where at, though? Frankfort? I'll be in Germany in mid/late May. Wondering if there's anyway we could possibly meet up.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I'll be at Ramstein AB. I'm not too up on German geography yet but I hear it's not too far away. I'm sure we can work something out. I might even have my car by then too. lol


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

i'll fly to germany just to help you tune.


or at least we can say that.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Works for me! lol


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## simplicityinsound (Feb 2, 2007)

nice, it would be awesome if you can make it to santa rosa, Jim will be there with his Gti, so we can do a back to back comparison, i too, am interested in just how good the stock HU and locations can sound 

tell uncle sam to delay your departure by a day or two. 

do you just drive your car onto a 17 or 141 or 5 and they fly it over for ya?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I would LOOOOVE to be able to get my car on the jet but we're flying on a rotator (military contracted commercial aircraft) so alas, no cargo hold. I can't really delay my leave any. I have to be in place by 25 May and we're arriving 20 May.

Zach got a chance to listen to it yesterday so he can give you his opinion on it, but we're of the same opinion, even playing up to 300Hz, with proper T/A the midbass is dead center in the dash. Dash pods mare the rest of it a bit easier but the cluster hump is a little bothersome for us shorter guys. (I'm 5'9"). For me some male vocals shift to just right of the cluster with females dead center. Good depth and pillar to pillar width. For him it was all the same but the male vocals were also centered.


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

quality_sound said:


> I'll be at Ramstein AB. I'm not too up on German geography yet but I hear it's not too far away. I'm sure we can work something out. I might even have my car by then too. lol


Rammstein AB is just over an hour drive from Frankfurt. Assuming you drive "correctly" on das Autobahn.  I lived in Frankfurt for a while when I was still active duty and we used to drive down to K-town (just outside of Rammstein) to hit up their PX.

And yes, Paul's car sounds really really nice. I still can't believe how well the stock midbass locations work since they're so far back. Very little tactile feeling to distract you, just nice solid centered bass.

Hey Paul, you still liking your new X-over settings for the mid/tweet? And did you happen to throw any other mids in to see if you could duplicate what we were hearing?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I'm still getting some sibilance so i have a bit more playing around to do but overall I am liking those settings. 

I haven't had a chance to swap mids but it's on my plan for this afternoon. 

Well I'm off to my AMMO call. No more work for me today!!


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## Boostedrex (Apr 4, 2007)

I hear ya. I left work at 11am myself.


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## AceX (Dec 15, 2008)

Man, I swear I know you from somewhere...

The name Mike Edwards mean anything to you?

EDIT: Just read through the thread more. I do know you! I'm that skinny little guy from the shop where Mike works. You were in there the other day as I was talking to him about refinishing the door panels. Next time we meet you have to let me listen to the car!


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Yep, that's me. Former Paradyme employee now bomb builder extraordinaire. It's cool, I DO know the shop's name. Me and Mike go back oooooh, about 13 years now. Good peeps. I'll be in Saturday to see if my Stealthbox came in.


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## bigabe (May 1, 2007)

WTF?? You work(ed) at Paradyme?

That's about two blocks from my place. Hell, I applied for a sales job there a couple times... no dice though... dunno why.

I've been thinking about stopping by Paradyme to see if you guys can do my next system update.


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

I forgot to mention, watch Buffalo Soldiers before going to Germany...with Joaquin Phoenix and Ed Harris.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

bigabe said:


> WTF?? You work(ed) at Paradyme?
> 
> That's about two blocks from my place. Hell, I applied for a sales job there a couple times... no dice though... dunno why.
> 
> I've been thinking about stopping by Paradyme to see if you guys can do my next system update.


Yep, I was there for a LONG time. Terry can be very picky about who he brings on staff. VERY picky. 



flomofo said:


> I forgot to mention, watch Buffalo Soldiers before going to Germany...with Joaquin Phoenix and Ed Harris.


Why?


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## flomofo (Apr 30, 2008)

Good movie, theyre in the military in Germany, and its good.


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## AceX (Dec 15, 2008)

quality_sound said:


> Yep, that's me. Former Paradyme employee now bomb builder extraordinaire. It's cool, I DO know the shop's name. Me and Mike go back oooooh, about 13 years now. Good peeps. I'll be in Saturday to see if my Stealthbox came in.


See you in a couple hours then? Gotta pick up my panels.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Werd.


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## Beyond Silence (May 11, 2009)

Any updates on your car?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Got some 2118Hs I want to try out as well as some Alpine ring radiators. Picked up some amp racks that fit next to the spare tire under the OEm floor from a guy on GolfMkV.com that makes them and installed 2 Arc KS125.4 Minis and a KS500.1 Mini and am gradually getting the Bit One dialed in.


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## glidn (Apr 21, 2007)

Hey bing, sorry to ask you about another install you did, but found you did a Subaru Liberty 2004-06 wagon i found on the volvo forum. Do you perhaps have a link to this build or perhaps email some pictures?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

Um, I'm not Bing.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Eh, "Quality_sound," or "Simplicty_in_sound" What's the difference? 

Jay


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## hunter660 (Feb 23, 2009)

I know this is an old thread, but did you stick with all stock speaker locations. Are you still happy with this setup?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I haven't owned the car for a little over a year but the only stock location I used was the midbass location and if you set your crossovers up correctly, with some T/A they work really, really well. I never had any problems at all with the sound of this setup. 

I still have the amp racks if your'e looking. They're just taking up space in my garage.


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## hunter660 (Feb 23, 2009)

I have a Jetta so I'm pretty sure the amp rack would not work. The only pictures that show up are of the hatch area and the midbass drivers in the door. Do you have any pictures of the other front drivers you could put up?

Thanks


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

I'll have to look. It wasn't anything special; just some unfinished pods for 4s with surface mounted tweeters.


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## hunter660 (Feb 23, 2009)

quality_sound said:


> I'll have to look. It wasn't anything special; just some unfinished pods for 4s with surface mounted tweeters.


Were you able to find pictures?


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

A few but they're on my home computer and my router is acting up. I can't access Imageshack from a gov't computer so it might be a few days.


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