# Beginning of my 2011 F150 Audio Adventure.



## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

This is the very start of what could be a simple stereo install. Or, it could be the start of audio madness. I'm hoping for the first of those two choices, but we all know how that goes. 

The vehicle is a 2011 F150 4-door FX4 with the Ecoboost twin-turbo V6. 
This would be it..










I'm starting out with the equipment from my last truck. Minus the head-unit. I want to try using the factory deck in this one. It has all kinds of crap that the radio also gets used for, that I honestly don't want to lose. Sync, Bluetooth, etc. 

I have a set of Alpine SPX17REF 6.5" Components that will be living in the front doors. That is, until I can find proper replacements. I've been happy with these so far. 
I have a few amps I can use. A couple of which will make some of you snicker behind my back. And that's cool. Gotta start somewhere. I will be driving this truck for quite a while so I will get everything to where I want it eventually. The audio system being the main part. 

Amp #1 is a JL 300/2 This was going to be used for the components till I find something better. 
Amp #2 is a ARC FD600.1 Mono that will be used for sub duty. It was running a Diamond D6 10" DVC in my last truck and was great. 









Amp #3 is an old Coustic 160. I know, I know Coustic is the suck. But, honestly I have never had a problem with it. Has always worked great. Sounds good to me anyway. 

I have 2 subs to choose from which are a 8w3v2 as well as a 10w3v2. Either of which will be in an enclosure under the back seat. I have a pretty good amount of room under there. What sucks is the backs of the back seats do not fold down. I had somewhat planned to mount amps and such back there but that is pretty much squashed now. Would have to completely remove the back seat to get to the amps. So amps will be taking up some of the sub space. 
I'd like to get some pics of the back seat area tomorrow so I can get some of you guys opinions on what route to take on sub choice and amp placement. I'm not dead set on amp or sub choices. I am open to cheap ideas. i.e. used stuff, egay, classifieds and such. 

On to the start of the build stuff. I haven't installed a single thing in the truck. I did make some billet aluminum speaker adapters in our CNC machine today though. They turned out really good!

































I know that isn't much. I mainly started this thread just to make me get started on the install as well as some constructive criticism along the way. 
I tend to get very long winded and for that I apologize.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Those baffles alone are worth subscribing to this thread. Excellent work!


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Those baffles are a work of art! I would kill for access to a CNC machine (and the ability to use it :laugh!


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Man those are sweet. How much is that in materials and CNC time?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks guys. Material cost is minimal. Maybe $20-30. Drawing and machine time on the other hand, would be several hundred probably. 
I'm fortunate in that I have a great job, my boss is cool as **** and I work in the dream shop. Any and every tool or machine you can think of is here. 
Here is a crappy picture that shows about half of the shop. 








We have 2 CNC mills, a CNC lathe and a CNC saw. All of which are only a couple of years old. Manual mill and lathe, multiple welding machines for welding everything from Titanium to aluminum. A laser that is used of labeling/ engraving our products. Anything electrically related you can think of. And the list goes on and on. 
We build things like this.. All billet aluminum intake manifold for a 855 cubic inch engine. 








We are a company that makes nitrous products for the drag racing industry. As well as have our own race teams that compete in the ProModified Nitrous class in NHRA and ADRL series.
Sorry for getting side tracked. Back to the baffles..

The reason I made them is the ones that came with the speakers, are thin, flimsy plastic. 
I wanted to make some that were solid. And would not give me any problems if I decided to change the woofer out more than once. 
I put 8-32 thread-serts in them as well instead of just drilling and tapping holes directly into the aluminum. 
I made 4 of them thinking I may use them in all 4 doors, but starting to second guess that. If I replace the rear door speakers, I'll probably just go back with a simple 5x7. 
Anyone want a pair of expensive billet aluminum 5x7 speaker baffles? LOL!
There will be more aluminum parts involved in my build. Just have to figure out what I want to do first. 
I'd really like a small 5-channel amp that has enough ass to drive a decent sub. The bad thing is not really having a ton of money available to pour into it. 
I'd love to have a JL HD900/5. But I just can't afford it right now. I've been looking at the Massive nx5. It's hard to believe something that small can make the power it says it does. Anyone who has experience with the Massive amps let me know how you like them please. 
I will update this in a couple days when I get started sealing/deadening the front doors and installing the components.


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## EcotecRacer (Sep 16, 2008)

man I just wanna tour the shop


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## dodgeman70592 (Jun 16, 2009)

Wow...Very nice!


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

That manifold makes me want to touch myself. Always interesting to see installs from skilled fabricators and I can't wait to see the rest. Thanks for sharing!


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## NucFusion (Nov 28, 2010)

I love those baffles! I wouldhave to find some way for them to be displayed when installed. The shop looks really nice as well. Always good to have a cool boss.


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## BlueAc (May 19, 2007)

Cool story bro... But nobody cares about your install. More pics of the shop please...jk. All jokes aside, I love the new F150's. I'm tuned in. Good luck...


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## jab4au (May 31, 2010)

That is EXACTLY what I would own if I were in the market for a new vehicle. I really like how the rims match the color of the truck. I don't think that anything needs to be said about the CNC work..... Pure money!!! Well done, sir!!


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Lol! Yea it's a pretty cool place to work. Can make basically anything you want out of anything you want. 
Now if I could just decide what direction to go with equipment I'd be all set. 
I have the harness to come out of the factory head unit, but it is only going to be the front 2-channels for output. Then what? I'm almost at the point of coming straight off the harness I have coming from the headunit with RCA ends. Then straight into the 300/2. And figuring out what to do about a sub later. Which sucks because I want a sub as bad as I want the components. lol ****. 
I may do that actually.


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## joh408 (Nov 3, 2010)

Isn't there a pin behind the seat back that you push up on to release it and then you can fold down both portions of the seat so you can access the wall?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

If there is, I haven't found it. The little lever on the side of the seat will fold the bottom up. That's it. 
On my 2006 f250 the back seats would fold both ways. 


---
- Sent from my sack.


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## joh408 (Nov 3, 2010)

Fold the bottom part up and the take off the headrest. Look behind the seat and there should be a silver bolt type deal that you can slide up with a bit of force using a channel lock under the bolt and the seat as leverage and then unlatch the bottom portion and your rear seat should fold down.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Interesting! Is there room for an amp or two?


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## joh408 (Nov 3, 2010)

TJ05FX4 (on f150online) fit 2 good size amps and a processor back there


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thank you Sir! I will check it out!


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## jaikai (Aug 8, 2011)

That shop is making me drool...


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## Ray21 (Oct 19, 2009)

Here's a good writeup on an F150 install:
My install experience - long writeup - F150online Forums


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## joh408 (Nov 3, 2010)

Ya Langlowe did a really nice job on his.
Here's TJ05FX4's build too:
My Stereo Install....2011 FX2 SuperCrew - F150online Forums


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

Glad to see another 2011 F150 around here.

I tried to start out simple, but it has evolved into a downright madness and obsession. its unavoidable. Also if you want a small powerfull 5 channel amp...i really like my JL xd700/5

I freaking love your speaker adapters. I made mine out of 1/2" mdf...poor mans baffle. 

But they will be changing soon since i am upgrading my front speakers to 6.5s from 5.25s.

Your build might be a lot better, but here is my build thread with video over at F150forum.com. a lot has changed actually since the videos. i no longer have the JL audio cleansweep and the amp rack is re-made and is much, much nicer. 

Sound System install 2011 FX4 with Video - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


oh and also, where do you work, and are you hiring. :wideeyed::wideeyed::wideeyed:


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thank you Blacknight and everyone else. I appreciate the love on the speaker adapters. 
I work at Speedtech Nitrous Solutions. Unfortunately we aren't hiring right now. Lol

I really appreciate the links to other builds!!! 
That helps me figure out some things. I'm really starting to lean towards the tweeters ending up in the A-pillars. I think I want to try my hand at making some. Maybe incorporate some billet aluminum somewhere. Make the tweeter mounts out of aluminum or something. The wheels are beginning to turn...


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I was able to get a little bit done yesterday. Not much. Passenger door got some RAAM BXT and some ensolite. Planning to do the driver side tonight. I suck at doing that ****. But it's done. There was a couple of big holes that got covered as well. I didn't install the new speakers yet. I'm not ready to install the amp yet, so I waited. Really contemplating tweeter pods of some description on the A-pillars. 
I did make some mounts for the passive crossovers that came with the components and found a great place to put them for easy access.










Painted with a quick shot of black rattlecan 









Passenger side placement









Driver side. 









Painted and put together.









Will be easy to get to to terminate the wires as well as be able to adjust the tweeter output. 

The proverbial door deadening.









My next hurdle. Getting wire through this.









The body side of this plug.









Here is my work space for the sub enclosure as well as the amp rack. 









Lol, I took a picture of the quick measurements I have of the enclosure/ amp rack area. 









I don't want to take up all the space under the rear seat with audio equipment. I want to keep a little bit under the passenger side just to put ****.
I am trying to decide which sub to use. the 8w3 that will have more air space or the 10w3. Think I want to try a ported box this time. I have always had sealed. If a ported enclosure can be accurate as well as have a bit more volume, that is the way I will go. If the sealed is going to be more accurate at the cost of a little output then that is the way I would rather go. 
I want the system to be as clear and accurate as possible, with what I have to work with. Obviously with a little extra clean bass. 

If I can get some opinions of woofer choices and box design, that would be AWESOME.
By the way, I think I am going to use a 6xs from the head-unit. Out of the 6XS to the 300/2, the out of the 6XS to the FD600.1 for the sub. 
As far as equipment goes, I'm gonna start with what I have and improve from there.


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## rsutton1223 (May 29, 2011)

Love that shop. I think I could find a couple of things to do in there with my WRX!

What do you think of the ecoboost V6 in the F150. Commercials aside...that has always sparked my attention.


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## Chaos (Oct 27, 2005)

If at all possible, try to find the space to port that 10W3.

Looking good so far - those adapters are sweet.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I really like the Ecoboost so far. It is strange having that much power in a heavier truck with a v6. But, the thing has plenty of it. I've had it almost 2 months now and am still getting use to it. 

The sub is going to have to be down-firing. Gotta figure out a box design that will allow a port. I kinda suck at box building.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

Kelly, where are you mounting those crossovers? I really cant tell from the pics.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I'm sorry, the pics kinda suck. Here you can see better..


















They will fit perfect back there. It's hard to see what I am talking about.
I'm planning to use some self-tapping screws to attach the brackets to the metal behind the dash. Gonna work on it tonight some and will get them put in. Will have some install pics tomorrow. I hope..

BTW, I am running a 4 conductor 16gauge wire to the crossovers and each of the speakers.(The orange wire you can barely see in the above picture) I want the extra conductors just in-case I decide to add another speaker somewhere or have the ability to power the tweeters and the mid separately.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Check out the Audiocontrol LC2i, LC6i or EQX for your OEM integration needs, unless you want to spend the big bucks.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

OOOOH i see, but does that mean you have to run two sets of speaker wires thru your molex connectors? on for your midbass and one for your tweeter.

if you mount then like I did (under the door window/lock controls), then you only need to run one set of speaker wire thru the door grommet. Idk how big those crossovers are but it might be worth a try. 

Im just thinking it would be easier for you that way. I got luck and my truck didnt have the molex connectors.

*edit* nvm i see u said ur running a 4 conductor. that works too. lol


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

my neighbot has a 2011 f150 that ive bene trying to get him to get me to put a system into  150's always work out so nice for systemss it seems. they have so much room and so much after market support.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

blackknight87 said:


> OOOOH i see, but does that mean you have to run two sets of speaker wires thru your molex connectors? on for your midbass and one for your tweeter.
> 
> if you mount then like I did (under the door window/lock controls), then you only need to run one set of speaker wire thru the door grommet. Idk how big those crossovers are but it might be worth a try.
> 
> ...


Yea running 4conductor everywhere instead of regular speaker wire. It's the wire we use when wiring houses for theater/distributed audio. It's barely over 1/4" thick but the insulation on the outside is strong and very flexible. 
I'm thinking about putting the tweeters in the A-pillars so I don't know that I want the crossovers in the doors. Rather they be easily accessible. 
I may leave the molex plug unmolested and just run the wire by itself. Hate to do that. Want to keep everything as stock looking as possible. Gonna look at the plug a little closer today.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

Kellyo77 said:


> Yea running 4conductor everywhere instead of regular speaker wire. It's the wire we use when wiring houses for theater/distributed audio. It's barely over 1/4" thick but the insulation on the outside is strong and very flexible.
> I'm thinking about putting the tweeters in the A-pillars so I don't know that I want the crossovers in the doors. Rather they be easily accessible.
> I may leave the molex plug unmolested and just run the wire by itself. Hate to do that. Want to keep everything as stock looking as possible. Gonna look at the plug a little closer today.


yea ive seen people run their speaker wire seperatley and then they get their own flexible rubber grommet for it. But then you have to drill a hole in the door.


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Kellyo77 said:


> The sub is going to have to be down-firing. Gotta figure out a box design that will allow a port. I kinda suck at box building.


I'll make your box if you'll make me some billet speaker grills!


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

myhikingboots said:


> I'll make your box if you'll make me some billet speaker grills!


I wish they were a little easier to make. I would be trying to make them to sell. 
What do you want grills to fit?


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Kellyo77 said:


> I wish they were a little easier to make. I would be trying to make them to sell.
> What do you want grills to fit?


No worries. I was kidding mostly. They would be for my '09 Ram front doors. There is not enough depth for the ID 6x9's that I want, and the custom grilles would be replacing the odd shaped factory grilles that are part of the door card. They would have to be custom CAD, which I'm not proficient at, but could figure out with a little help from a friend. I'm a carpenter and we have a CNC machine where I work, but it is no where near the caliber of the machines you have! Anyway good luck with your build and keep up the good work! 

Chuck


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

anymore updates?


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## Ray21 (Oct 19, 2009)

I get ~1 ft^3 with the dimensions you posted for the sub box. That's not quite enough for a ported 10, maybe a pair of 8s ported but port length will be pretty long in a box that small. 

Alpine Type-R Thins look pretty good though, you can run a pair of 10s or a single 12 sealed. I've read good things about them.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I got the driverside door deadened and mounted the crossovers. Was in a hurry and only took one picture I think. Lol

This is the crossover for the passenger side mounted in it's little hiding spot. fit perfectly, much to my surprise. The orange wire is what will be feeding the xover from the 300/2. I ran the 4 conductor wire so I can hopefully come up with a nice 4-ch amp and power the mids and tweeters separately- i.e active. Then better components eventually. My next hurdle I've yet to tackle is wires through the molex plugs into the doors. A really cool guy PM'd me some much needed pics to help with that. Thank you Sir! 
Now I just have to find the time to do it. Lol
I'm DYING to get the components in there. and the sub for that matter. The factory sound sucks balls.


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

i know the feeling. i have a pair of polk mm6501s that I have sitting in my house waiting to go in. Im just waiting on my sound deadener to arrive.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

What about an aperiotic enclosure for the 10w3? Anyone's thoughts?? I'm just trying to think outside of the normal box.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Time to work on this thing seems to be at a premium these days. Can't get crap done. I was able to terminate the wire coming from the amp to the crossovers and finish up the deadening of the driver side door. 









With wire ferruls crimped.









The crimpers used. They crimp all the way around the ferrul instead of one spot.
I use to have to use these when doing any robot wiring at the Mercedes Benz plant.









I'm hoping to get a full day this weekend to fool with it.


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## tlmatiko21 (Nov 19, 2008)

looks great so far!


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Got the piece made for the back wall to mount the amps, crossover, power and ground distribution etc. 
I would like to be the first to say that I absolutely suck at wood working. Just never been good at it. So this is the outcome from that lack of ability. The power sliding back glass motor is very much in the way.
I'm not very happy with the way this turned out, but I am ready to hear the **** playing. I will make another piece that looks better. For the time being I did this and didn't run the wiring the way I wanted but made it workable. I left all the wires long.

I have a 4 conductor 16ga speaker cable running from the headunit to the 6XS. I wanted to try RCA ends on the crossover end of the cable and tie into the front channels with the Metra harness. If the RCA ends I made don't work for some reason, I will get a LC6i LOC. If they do, yea for me. 









That is about the only picture I have taken lately. All of the wiring in the truck is basically finished. I have the 4 conductor wire from the Alpine x/overs into the doors. If I hadn't of had help with that, I'd probably still be working on it. Thanks Skierman! 
I didn't take any pics of getting the wire into the doors and I should have. Had to drill holes in just the right spots in the Molex connectors that connect the doors to the body. Which involved removing the fuse box on the passenger side and twisting the connector out. Kind of a *****. The driver side required removing the parking brake assembly and a few other things. Also a *****. But, It's all done now. 
I have some terminating left to do, but all wire has been run. From the battery, all the way back. I plan to have the speakers in and playing by the end of the week. 

As long as my billet aluminum tweeter pods get done. They will be bad ass I promise.


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

where can someone get a pair of crimpers like that?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I got them through Mayer Electric I believe. They are expensive. Around $200. May be able to find them on Ebay or something for cheaper. I really like them a lot. Use them whenever I can, as far as audio wire terminations go.


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## myhikingboots (Oct 28, 2010)

Kellyo77 said:


> As long as my billet aluminum tweeter pods get done. They will be bad ass I promise.


Looking forward to seeing these! 

I wish you lived a little closer and I could have done your woodwork! It's hard to tell from the pics but what you did looks fine to me.

Chuck


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## blueatlanta (Feb 10, 2011)

Kellyo77 said:


> I got them through Mayer Electric I believe. They are expensive. Around $200. May be able to find them on Ebay or something for cheaper. I really like them a lot. Use them whenever I can, as far as audio wire terminations go.


awesome, i do audio crimping all day every day at the shop, faster and easier than soldering oem to aftermarket headunits.


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## moefi (Jul 26, 2011)

very nice


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

The baffles and mids are in and playing! My home made RCA ends works like a charm. The JL300/2 has a switch for high/low level input which makes it work and sound right. The 6xs isn't what I need, so I just ran the 4-conductor from the head unit straight into the amp. I don't need anything else in line at the moment. Think I will when I add the sub amp though. Anyway, I'm happy to have music playing that sounds good. Well as good as it can without tweeters. We are working on that.

6.5's installed. 









The almost finished drawing of the tweeter pods.









Step one of the CNC machining process done.









Another pic of step 1.









With tweeter stuck in there just to check fitment.









Tune in tomorrow to hopefully see the finished product! I'm honestly a little excited about them! LOL


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Well here is what the finished product looks like. But, I screwed up and crashed the tool holder into it on the last step. Hoping to have a good pair done today.


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## Ray21 (Oct 19, 2009)

Damn that is impressive!!


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Only thing left is to drill and tap the holes in the tweeter pods and mount them in the A-pillars.


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## leepersc (Sep 23, 2009)

Wow, man! That is some very impressive CNC work. Looks very, very nice. Well done!!!


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)

Awesome work with the aluminum. It's times like this that I wish my work was into metal and not wood. :lol:


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Thank you guys, I really appreciate it. 

I'm making one more pair of tweeter pods that don't have any designs on them. Just smooth cups basically. One is finished and the other is in the machine, running, as I type
this. Want to decide which ones I want to use. 

BowDown, I wish you were closer to me, I would have gotten your help with the wood part. I still have to come up with an enclosure for a sub. I haven't really focused on it till now. Was trying to get everything else done, so all I have to do is mount and wire an amp and put a box under the seat. Then tune everything the best I can. 
I can tell you, that I am very ready for a sub to be picking up the low notes. 
I've had several vehicles since turning 16, all of which had some form of aftermarket system with a sub. I'm so use to hearing a sub that it sounds weird without one. Lol

Thanks again guys! This is not the end of this install. Now that the basics are out of the way, it is time to get started.


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## SSexpo03 (Jul 30, 2010)

Awesome work with aluminum! Damn sexy! Good luck with the rest of the build.


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## takeabao (Jul 18, 2005)

Damnnnnnnn!! Props!


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## BurnOut956 (Sep 3, 2007)

That is very unique. good work!


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

You should mill out a big aluminum sphere for the subwoofer


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## jaikai (Aug 8, 2011)

You just took it to a whole new level with those tweeter pods. Props.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

NICE work. I just noticed we are in the same state. I've been looking 
for someone to do some machine work on a couple parts. If you would
like some side work I could really use the help.


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## kombos (Sep 7, 2011)

Awesome work.....subscribed.


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## Mopar244DIY (Dec 1, 2009)

OK..... it's been 5 days.......

Update?


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Mopar244DIY said:


> OK..... it's been 5 days.......
> 
> Update?


x2....need updates


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

They are in a playing fine! While I am happy to finally have them in, I'm not sure I am completely happy with how they sound. I think it is more of a speaker choice issue. They are being fed from a 300/2 that goes to the Alpine passive crossovers. Which unfortunately, isn't adjustable. Besides attenuating the tweeters. 
And the obvious small issue is that they are nowhere near on-axis. Well the driver side is but the pass side is not at all. I want more midbass. I want the tweeters to sound more realistic. I am gonna dick with it some more and see if I can improve anything. Kinda doubtful. 
Anyone know of a good AFFORDABLE 1" tweeter that I can try out? As well as a little more robust 6.5" mid? Can't be anything huge that takes a ton of power. They will hit the window. 
Now that the essentials are out of the way(Wiring, amp, sound deadening, etc) I want better ****. I also need a sub enclosure for the 10w3. Wish one of you guys lived around here that could whip a box out for me. 

Next on the list is get the sub and sub amp installed. Then worry about the components. Not having a subwoofer to help with bass duties, sucks. But, I don't want to just stick some crap in there. I wanna do it the right way. 
Anyway, here they are installed..



















(I know the tweeters are in a little crooked in these pics. They are straight now.)


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## never2late (Jun 16, 2011)

How is the stock hu working out for you? I have 2011 supercab and just got my speakers and amp. Think i have a sub picked out but now i don't know about the hu. Graet work by the way


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

never2late said:


> How is the stock hu working out for you? I have 2011 supercab and just got my speakers and amp. Think i have a sub picked out but now i don't know about the hu. Graet work by the way


It is ok. Obviously don't have much adjustment but it sounds fine. I don't plan to get a aftermarket headunit. If anything, I would get some sort of processor, MS8 or Audio Control or something like that. Don't wanna fool with the steering wheel controls or Sync. I like using them too much.


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## never2late (Jun 16, 2011)

Thats what i was thinking too, but now i'm leaning towards going with a double- din and being done with it . I HOPE done with it


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## blackknight87 (Jul 11, 2011)

never2late said:


> Thats what i was thinking too, but now i'm leaning towards going with a double- din and being done with it . I HOPE done with it


Ive been using my stock headunit for a few months now...im getting tired of it. Im gonna wait at least til my free sirius runs out tho until i upgrade to something double din....


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I still don't have a sub. It is driving me batshit. Working on it though. 
I noticed a rattle in my driver side mid yesterday. Only when it is at very low volume. It isn't anything vibrating, I'm almost certain it is in the speaker. It is still playing and sounds ok. 
Does anyone know of a replacement set of mids that will work???


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Have you looked at the stealth box for this model? I believe its a ported 10"w3 and very well built.

Great aluminum work, I would have aimed the pods differently however.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

tyroneshoes said:


> Have you looked at the stealth box for this model? I believe its a ported 10"w3 and very well built.
> 
> Great aluminum work, I would have aimed the pods differently however.


Thanks! I agree about the pods. I should have made them adjustable. Was my first time making them and I didn't think about it until I went to install them. I've been thinking about making some that are adjustable. Just want a better components set first. I'm just not happy with the SPX's. They are really nice speakers, I just want something more substantial. 

I'm swapping out my 4 gauge power wire for 1/0. Have to find a fuse holder and a distribution block that will go from 1/0 to 4 gauge out. I want to do the BIG3 stuff but the wiring under the hood of this truck is pretty complicated. Will figure it out though.


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