# Ford explorer build log Hybrid audio L8/l4se front stage



## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Soon to begin my first active install. 2005 Ford Explorer 2 way active tweeter-less setup + sub woofer. I will be using Hybrid Audio Technologies L3se mid-range drivers in the sail panels (on axis) and either L8v2 in the lower door panels or the peerless SLS 8. Clarion CZ 702 HU for processing. Possibly an ARC audio KS300.2 for mid-range power supply. I still consider myself a newb and would appreciate all the criticism and advice DIYMA has to offer. Unknown sub woofer setup as of now. This is my first true SQ install.

Intended gear to use
Legatia l3se (most expensive car audio gear ever purchased)
Legatia L8v2 preferred or peerless SLS 8 if no one sells them to me for a realistic price this week.
Pioneer GM-D8604 - bridged to power mid bass. (will upgrade later)
Clarion cz 702 HU
sub-less for the time being.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Okay midrange and amplifier will be installed this weekend. BTW need a pair of used L8 any versions this weekend if anyone has a pair. or else its going to be Peerless SLS 8's


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

With that HU I would recommend either another 4 channel amp bridged to the L3se's or a 2 channel with independent gains for each channel like the Pioneer PRS800. This way you have separate gains per driver since that HU only has level adjustments per PAIR of channels.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

interesting PRS 800.

is this a decent 4 channel amp? I understand that the midrange requires a good sq amp. I know where I can get one of those really cheap. what kind of power do they make?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

07azhhr said:


> With that HU I would recommend either another 4 channel amp bridged to the L3se's or a 2 channel with independent gains for each channel like the Pioneer PRS800. This way you have separate gains per driver since that HU only has level adjustments per PAIR of channels.


I'm glad that you told me that. I have noticed at points that in this vehicle that the output on the passenger side is always greater on the passenger side. I will buy a PRS 800-2 this week. I guess 125 watts RMS x2 should be enough headroom for the l3se's. thanks for the advice.


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## Mathematics2 (May 29, 2012)

Nice, I have an 04 mountaineer, seems there's not too many logs for 3rd gen's on here. Tons of space to hide stuff behind the rear trim panels (or put a stealth sub...thats where they put the supposedly premium mach stereo system sub). 

You might reinforce the plastic hooks on the inside of the door cards while you have them off... if you're like me and cycle through speakers, the regular on/off destroys those hooks pretty quick.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Mathematics2 said:


> Nice, I have an 04 mountaineer, seems there's not too many logs for 3rd gen's on here. Tons of space to hide stuff behind the rear trim panels (or put a stealth sub...thats where they put the supposedly premium mach stereo system sub).
> 
> You might reinforce the plastic hooks on the inside of the door cards while you have them off... if you're like me and cycle through speakers, the regular on/off destroys those hooks pretty quick.


Math,
lack of third gen explorer/mountaineer logs is an understatement. I hope that my build log will get the ball going and encourage other third gen installs on the web. just sent payment for a set of legatia L8v2's. plan to place them in the lower door panels.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Yesterday was like Christmas. Both my L3se's arrived at my authorized dealer (absolute audio and tint).
To get an idea how to mount L3se's and see what the little package that was so expensive sound like, I had to do a temporary wiring of the Pioneer GM-D8604 which I had purchased earlier from woofersetc.com. instantly I knew what I got for the money of the legatia's. They were loud and the most natural sounding reproduction I had ever heard. With advice from a more experience fabricator I was convinced to switch from mounting pods on The sail panels due to dash board obstacles and instead mount them in the dash board. 

I am still a newb when it comes to a-pillar mounting but. To keep it simple in terms of on/of axis I did a decided to have as forward facing as possible. The driver side faces the center of the passenger head rest and the passenger side faces the driver seat head rest. I'm sure someone hear might have better ways to mount them but keep in mind this is my first time and I don't have another SQ oriented person for great distance. This town is full of Marines and Sailors who are all about SPL.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Pioneer -GM-D8604 initial review.

Originally I had plans on using all Arc Audio amplifiers for this install. But after hearing it power the Legatia L3se's yesterday I have decided that I may just keep it. I might actually buy another one to run 300w x 2 bridged for my legatia L8v2's which are scheduled to arrive on Friday. I will be waiting on the fed ex truck like a kid waiting for the ice cream truck.

I would say unless you spend an ass load more money I don't think you could find a better 4 channel amp than the $200.00 pioneer (100w x4 at 4 ohms) but I could be wrong though. once I get two more amplifiers I will mount them under the middle row of seats.
I like the fact that the amp was able to easily give the speakers all the power they needed with the gain turned down to the minimum level.

Probably a subject for the help me pick my equipment thread but if you guys have some unbiased opinions on which sub woofer to use. I only demand I play very low and sound very accurate, It must blend with the L8v2's. not looking for it to be anywhere as expensive as the front stage was. L8's were 200 bucks for the pair and l3se's were MSRP (alot). I want a sub somewhere in the range of the 300 bones. 600 watts of power available


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Subscribed.

Pics?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Sorry for the lack of imagery pics are on the way. Only thing done so far is take pillars out the suv. I am going to be posting lots of pics on Monday.


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## Mathematics2 (May 29, 2012)

dgr932 said:


> Probably a subject for the help me pick my equipment thread but if you guys have some unbiased opinions on which sub woofer to use. I only demand I play very low and sound very accurate, It must blend with the L8v2's. not looking for it to be anywhere as expensive as the front stage was. L8's were 200 bucks for the pair and l3se's were MSRP (alot). I want a sub somewhere in the range of the 300 bones. 600 watts of power available


IDQ10's or 12's would be my vote...v2's can be had for cheap if you're ok with used, v3's for a bit more. I've cycled through a few IDQ's and have yet to find something else that blends so easily.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Hell yeah I'm okay with used. As long as its sound quality gear from an audiophile opposed to a bass head who beats their gear down just to say they hit a 1** db without sounding good. IDQ 10 or 12. I will look around for one of them or maybe two. Are the version 3's better than the v2?


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

I would suggest also trying the L3se's in the kicks too. I stsrted with my L3's in the pillars without trying them in the kicks. I built my pillars and ran them there for a while. BUT earlier this week I finally decided to try them in the kicks and I am very very pleased with them down there. I am going to be making that their perm home from here on out and will always look to kicks from now on. 

Be sure to seal and deaden your doors (seal them for sure) for those L8's and you should have so much midbass that blending most any sub will not be an issue.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Which way were your l3's facing in the a pillars and which way are they facing in the kicks?


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Pics?


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## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Sine Swept said:


> Pics?


^^^^2x


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

I haven't finalized where in the kicks they will go yet. I am trying ot multiple angles and placements before aI commit and build. Just like I did up in the pillars. Keep in mind I am not saying that the kicks will be better for your truck just that you should try them out down there as well before you commit to a location. I was against the idea of my kicks in this car before but now that I have tried them out down there I will always give them a chance. 

So far I have tried farthest forward/ lowset possible location with them with them below 15* off axis with both sides matching the axis amount. Then I tried several close varients of this. Yesterday I tried them up against the sill just below the farthes forward point of my L8's in my doors and kicked the bottom of the baffle out to give them about a 30* angle in relation to the floor. That one was even more off axis then the pillar locations and firing across the car. Today I sunk them into the inner pocket of the metal part of my kicks ( as wide as possible mounting location). Tomorrow I will explore various angles at this location.

All positions have no issues staging up above the dash. The sill location however did have the downfall of my leg being able to block some of the sound if I let it rest on the door. The far forward locations however could not be blocked by my leg which was my biggest concern going into this. 

After I find my final locations I will be also trying the tweeters down there too but I have more reservations on those. But I won't know until I try right? I was very very skeptical for the mids but have proven myself wrong so why not atleast try the tweets lol. 

Note I have switched tweets out recently to DLS Iridiums. 


This is from between the headrests.












These next two are from my headrest.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

work done so far.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Going to shave down the bottom sides of pods so that A-pillar pods can be fit properly today. I will also cover the remainder of the door in damping material.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I really like the material I am using. It is so thick and has great damping abilities. frost king duct insulation.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Pods don't fit quite the way they should but I will try to get them to work this weekend. i did wire them up to two of the channels from the inexpensive pioneer amp. I must say Damn! these things are loud. the sound was right where it should be. As a big fan of live performance which I often attend The first thing I thought of was being in the front row of a Phil Collins live performance. I also wired the l8's while placing them on the floors in front of the front seats ti function check them. Man. The four of them going together was simple the best sound i have ever heard. The midbass sounded so natural and authoritative I couldn't help but sit there in the middle of the back seat and listen to the l3/l8 play for twenty minutes. my neighbors apologized for making fun of me for attempts in SQ instead of SPL. He even mentioned that he wanted to learn about DIY and SQ. he may have the bug. 

I always wondered if a little 3" speaker would satisfy my need for volume. with the volume turned half way they had already surpassed my previous install which was two pairs of Boston pro60se which were both installed in coaxial within the doors.
Hope this gives a reference to those who wonder if kick panels or pillars can get loud


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Are you still planning on upgrading the pioneer amp? I've been wondering if two of those would be sufficient to run my whole system.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Yes i am still planning to upgrade my amp from the pioneer. But I CANNOT say that it is because of lack of quality but because I am just curious to use sundown amps as I can get a couple of them for a good deal. These amps are doing a pretty good job in my test setup. i unplugged it temporary and ran my two of my t600-2 amps on the l3se/l8's to see if i could hear any noticeable difference in sound and i could not. Keep in mind that I am also very biased toward Rockford Fosgate power series amps as I own 7 of them bought at full retail in my other vehicles. Even so I could not notice any difference in sound. maybe others could. 

Not to thread jack my own build log but what to answer your other question of rather or not two would be sufficient to run your whole system I would need to know what equipment you intend on using. post your intended gear used and I along with others subscribed to this thread may be able to better answer the question.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Well, I've been wondering mainly about the quality and the power of the amps. I'm planning on doing a three way front setup with hertz hi energy tweeters and 3" mids with a pair of peerless hds 8" woofers. I also will be running to JBL gto 15" subs IB with a final load of 4 ohms. I'm thinking of the tweets and mids using passives on the front two channels of one amp, the subs bridged on the rear two channels of the same amp and the mids bridged on the second amp. I may go fully active with each set receiving its own channels in the future,but my processor won't support that right now. Sorry about thethreadjack, but I ve been following your build the whole time. Keep up the good work!

Also, do you think the 3" full range is lacking any of the high end? I've just never heard a setup without tweeters before.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I was worried about the quality of the amp as well. assuming you have the processing already to go 3 way+ sub you could probably use 2 of these pioneer 4 channel amps for the set up. 
Amp A: 2 channels for tweeters, 2 channels for 3inch midrange

Amp B: 2 channels for the midbass drivers, two channels bridged providing 300 watts for bass more than enough for my taste maybe not others but yes this could work. I believe two of these could power your setup. If not it allows you to expand to the current setup by adding a dedicated amp for subwoofer such as the GM-9501 if matching amps is your thing.
In conclusion given your intended setup my final answer is yes you will have more than enough power and channels by using 2 of these pioneer amps. I have the gains all the way down. Others on this thread are alot more crafty than me. I'm sure they may give you a different answer. either way please let me know how it turns out.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I did not find the l3se lacking although other might. Scott Buwalda and others using EQ added a little bit at 20K. i cannot hear as high as that so I don't need it. most people don't hear that high anyway. I like the fullness of a widebander over a small tweeter commonly used in most 2way comp sets which provide an artificial like sound. with a widebander it sounds more realistic to me especially live recordings.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the feedback. If I can I will try for fully active, but for now it will be mostly active. We will see how it works out. 

"Now back to your regularly scheduled programming."


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Gentlemen,

I have my pillars installed finally. These are my first pillars ever so I am proud of the outcome. Had no idea how stressful it can be to create these things. But on to pictures. Used some spray cans to paint them. I plan to have them painted using automotive paint along with the midbass pods once they are created.


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## bkjay (Jul 7, 2009)

Those look great man!


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I dreams of this L8v1 and the door panel becoming one. I will start on this tomorrow.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

That looks good.

We got to meet up sometime so I can hear this.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

sub'd....


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

bkjay said:


> Those look great man!


Thank you, I have never made any before. Much appreciated


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

'=Notlo23]That looks good got to meet up sometime so I can hear this.[/QUOTE]

Thanks! Hell yeah we gotta meet up. I'm going to finish the midbass pods next. You gotta listen to them. Thanks for helping.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Sub'd TE=quietfly;1900404]sub'd....[/QUOTE]

Sub'd... ?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

dgr932 said:


> Sub'd TE=quietfly;1900404]sub'd....


Sub'd... ?[/QUOTE]

He is subscribing to the thread for more updates.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Im such a newb.


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## Mathematics2 (May 29, 2012)

Those pillars look great! Nice work.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Sub'd TE=quietfly;1900404]sub'd....


Sub'd... ?[/QUOTE]


i'm interested in your build so i subscribed 

good work so far!


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Cool. I hope the outcome of the build is pleasing to you.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Today i cut away at the passenger door to better allow the midbass to breath.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

The lower hole beneath the oem 5x7 cutout is approximately 7.8"


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> The lower hole beneath the oem 5x7 cutout is approximately 7.8"


 Damn attachment! Grinding this off was a pita also the driver side pod was cut in order to feed the midbass the air required


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Alright gentlemen here is where you guys can have more influence on my build. Please bump it up for either carpet, painted or different finish on these pods. Your opinion really matters. Not sure how to make a poll.so lets hear your opinions and pro/cons of the finish on the pods


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Cool. I hope the outcome of the build is pleasing to you.


Lol you're the one that has to live with it, so I hope it turns out pleasing to you. I just love looking at other people's builds to see how they overcome problems. 

Best of luck!!!


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

dgr932 said:


> Please bump it up for either carpet, painted or different finish on these pods. Your opinion really matters. Not sure how to make a poll.so lets hear your opinions and pro/cons of the finish on the pods


I personally like carpet. You can probably find some gray carpet that matches your floor. Also the level of perfection that your pods will need to have with carpet is much lower than with vinyl or paint.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

Sub'd


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Big ass hole cut in the driver's side door. Used channel locks and a cut wheel. Then painstakingly rerouted all wires to lay inside the door instead of on the door.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Next birch ply baffles were screwed ontop of the B.A.H# 2 they are doubled up each being 3/4" lastly L8s were placed to ensure they would clear the window while rolled down. Requires 1.5" to clear the window. The remainder of panel was reinstalled.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

This is a temporary setup in order to keep me patient while building the pods.you guys understand. Im just to impatient and need midbass for the drive to work. Tomorrow i will wire them up and seal up the doors.


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## SilkySlim (Oct 24, 2012)

I recommend a couple of subs that play low and blend real well. The IDMax quite a bit (real efficient) of output and drops low. So does the morel ultimo SC. I have seen a couple used if you can find one not to many subs can hang near that price range. I also recommend the Morel primo. All of those blend very well and play well with midrange power and the first two will handle just about all you can give it. Especially the Ultimo SC. I own both and both have worked well on 200 Watts clean and now I am running 1-1.2k on one 10"SC clean and it says give me more. It sounds awesome.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

SilkySlim said:


> I recommend a couple of subs that play low and blend real well. The IDMax quite a bit (real efficient) of output and drops low. So does the morel ultimo SC. I have seen a couple used if you can find one not to many subs can hang near that price range. I also recommend the Morel primo. All of those blend very well and play well with midrange power and the first two will handle just about all you can give it. Especially the Ultimo SC. I own both and both have worked well on 200 Watts clean and now I am running 1-1.2k on one 10"SC clean and it says give me more. It sounds awesome.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


I have been curious a out the idmax and hear good things about the morels. Thanks for the real world experience with the aforementioned subs.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I dont know what it is at first i thought i had adapted to the volume output of the l3se. After a few days of playing them they sound like night and day for the worse. The output has dropped off so much i dont want to listen to them. Any ideas what may be the problem? Very confused And getting frustrated. I Changed amp out same results traced all wires no obvious problem found, Ialso reset head unit to exactly the way it was when speakers were first installed.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

relax and step away from the speakers a bit. then come back and start over from the begining, signal path, amp gains, processing... take your time its not a race its a journey. some times i'd have to step away from car audio for a few days to let my mind reset. and fwiw, my l6se's sounded much better after around 60 hours of play time on them, stands to reason the L3se's will need a similar break in time before they hit their "zone"
keep your chin up!!!
good work so far


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> I dont know what it is at first i thought i had adapted to the volume output of the l3se. After a few days of playing them they sound like night and day for the worse. The output has dropped off so much i dont want to listen to them. Any ideas what may be the problem? Very confused And getting frustrated. I Changed amp out same results traced all wires no obvious problem found, Ialso reset head unit to exactly the way it was when speakers were first installed.


Did this start after adding the L8's? If it did it could be that your acoustically out of phase.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

07azhhr said:


> Did this start after adding the L8's? If it did it could be that your acoustically out of phase.


It started does it even when the L8s are not in the SUV.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

quietfly said:


> relax and step away from the speakers a bit. then come back and start over from the begining, signal path, amp gains, processing... take your time its not a race its a journey. some times i'd have to step away from car audio for a few days to let my mind reset. and fwiw, my l6se's sounded much better after around 60 hours of play time on them, stands to reason the L3se's will need a similar break in time before they hit their "zone"
> keep your chin up!!!
> good work so far


Your right I have backed away from it for a while and will most likely continue to do so this weekend. Did your L6se's go threw multiple changes during break in? When I first put them in their pods they sounded incredible. A few hours in and they began to have more excursion and seem to hit the lower notes in the 250-500hz range with much more authority. With all settings the same I have noticed that the output continued to drop off. At first I thought Wow they don't even need to move as much to play the same lower frequencies. So while gradually adding more power I noticed the output was still decreasing. I have reran all the wires and RCA cables. No difference. Next I reset the head unit to factory specs slight improvement. Then I switched out the amplifier to one of my RF T600.2 if anything the lower end dropped off even further. maybe because this amp has an internal crossover of 24db slope vs the pioneer 8604 amp which only has a crossover slope of 12db. But it does sound better. I hope as the speakers continue to mature the output will return. as for now its no where as near as good it they were when first installed. I am beginning to hate them. Will check back in a few days.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I have returned to the explorer build project. Still having issues with the Mid range not performing nearly as well as they did during the first few days. I have reran all wires. I am beginning to believe that it may be the HU. maybe the head unit is F'd up. I am wondering if the head unit is not putting a enough voltage to the amplifiers as in its defective. either that or the voice coils in the L3se is burned. I can assure that all wiring and RCA cables are fine as they were all individually tested. This is especially noticeable midday when the temperature is highest. TO not get to frustrated with it more time was devoted to the midbass. both the passenger side and driver side were glassed. Please don't mind the wrinkles as they will covered by kitty hair and body filler.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

also using the crossovers on the CZ702 is a pain in the ass. I have decided that I am going to use a processor. Also the pioneer GM8606 is for sale. i can return it to woofersetc.com but don't feel like the hassle. I have sold my corvette minus the (3) T600-2 amps which i have decided that I am going to use. 1 for mids, 1 for woofers, and 1 for Sub. I have decided to remove the third row of seats that I never use anyway. In place of them I will add a false floor with plexiglass windows displaying the three amplifiers. $80 bucks if someone wants the pioneer amp btw. I could use an affordable processor if anyone has a solution. $400.00 is not affordable needs to allow two way + sub active.


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## quietfly (Mar 23, 2011)

I'd use another source to test if its the speakers or the Head Unit. My L6se's warmed up a bit and found there lower end once they were broken in. also check that your xovers are still working and that you aren't feeding them full range.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

makes sense worth a shot. trying booth tommorow


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Pm sent on the amp.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Glassed on more time. These things are solid. Time for more bodyfiller should be done by saturday


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Glassed a few more times. Going to be adding bodyfiller next to smooth things out. Hopping to be installed saturday afternoon


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## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

How much power were you running to those L3's and what was the xover freq and slope?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

ecbmxer said:


> How much power were you running to those L3's and what was the xover freq and slope?


Tried 100rms with amp crossed at 250


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

i would have put them in the kick panels... tons of room.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

I thought about it but thought that because I would not have tweeters to raise the image up to my dash board that on axis in the a pillars would be a lot better. Also being in the military my muddy boots and having a wife that would abuse them constantly with her feet scared me away from the kick panels


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

*Re: Ford explorer build log Hybrid audio L8/l3se front stage*

Thanks to all who have made recommendations on sub woofer choices. I have purchased my sub woofer today. I decided that to go with an image dynamic IDQ 15. I love the sound of these as they play so deep without excessive excursion. I don't care about being excessively loud but deep deep notes are very important 20-50hz.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Hell yeah pods are on. Damn i would have never thought the midbass would hit this hard. Getting the midbass pods to match up and fit flush with the door gonna take some work but im getting there.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Drive side done as well will take pictures tomorrow morning. They gray carpet is a match to the seats. The upper door panels will be painted to match the pods and seat. Current set up is cz 702 in two way mode. When set up this way the front output become the midbass channels and the rear outputs become the midrange/tweeter channel. Complete opposite from normal mode. For power is a t600.2 for legatia l3's and anothet rockfordfosgate t600.2 for the legatia l8v 1's.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Legatia l3's are playing from 315hz with 12db 
Legatia l8's are playing 40hz/12db -630hz/12db
Clarion, in 2way mode both Amps are
Set to all pass. LBest i can do withe limited processing for now . I am happy for now but much to go


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

I highly suggest reading through the attached thread multiple times and then following the steps very closely. If you do I almost guarantee success. 

A simple way to tune courtesy of cmusic....... - Car Audio | DIYMA.com


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## Serieus (May 27, 2011)

cool pods, i like them. build looks good! agreed with the comment on using the cmusic tuning guide, it's helped me a lot since i went active


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Okay this is the driver side. I don't know how to make the rear portion of the upper door panel align with the pods gonna gibe it some effort later on. Thanks for the link for tuning. I am going to read it a few more times until it makes sense to me. Still have so much to learn.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Time to make a false floor. Tempted to make a fiberglass box for the 15. But need to create the floor first. Current amp setup is embarrassing.


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Okay this is the driver side. I don't know how to make the rear portion of the upper door panel align with the pods gonna gibe it some effort later on.


The L8 pods look really nice.

To line them up in that rear section rip off the current carpet and build it out. You can do it with more fiberglass layers or you can use foam to do this. Heck you can even use more carpet till it meets up with the area that already matches the upper door panel. There are many many options you can use.

Can you lower the LP xo point on the L8's to meet up with the L3se's insted of overlapping so much?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

wzhan r said:


> The L8 pods look really nice.
> 
> To line them up in that rear section rip off the current carpet and build it out. You can do it with more fiberglass layers or you can use foam to do this. Heck you can even use more carpet till it meets up with the areat already matches the upper door panel. There are many many options you can use.
> 
> Can you lower the LP xo point on the L8's to meet up with the L3se's insted of overlapping so much?


Okay i will add glass and body filler to the rear section in about a week when my better carpet comes in. Thanks for the compliment on the pods it means alot. With the cz702 the lowest i can low pass is the 630. I hate this. Wish i could prevent overlap by crossing everything at 250 Hz. Need a , processors all seem so expensive cant afford 400 buck on one. Has to be another option to achieve lower crossover points?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Third row of seats removed what a mess. This is also the start of my false floor. Intend to display three amps as i also purchased a t500-1 bdcp to match my (2) t600-2 amps i wish to have a plexiglass window displaying all three amps and tuck about 1ft of blue LED's sunk into the false floor centered against the rear seats may be my idq 15 in 1.4 cu ft wedge box.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Looking for help with this too as i know nothing about modeling a sub or cabin gain i will be a humble noob and take head to this as i did with everything else. Almost forgot upgrading to 0 gauge tommorow. Thanks to all those who follow and comment to this thread


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Okay i will add glass and body filler to the rear section in about a week when my better carpet comes in. Thanks for the compliment on the pods it means alot. With the cz702 the lowest i can low pass is the 630. I hate this. Wish i could prevent overlap by crossing everything at 250 Hz. Need a , processors all seem so expensive cant afford 400 buck on one. Has to be another option to achieve lower crossover points?


 
Check out the mini dsp's. If you do get a processor are you going to be able to defeat the current hu xo?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Yes the head unit allows for complete passthrough if desired. Mini dsp which one would i need?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

5 Hours of work today but definitely worth it 4 1/2 rolls of frost king to cover entire floor fire wall to edge of tailgate. Additional layers in noisy areas like transmission tunnel and wheel areas. I highly recommend this stuff


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Putting this car back together was torture. Almost gave on for the day but needed myride put back together in time so i can drive to Philly tomorrow.


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## Mathematics2 (May 29, 2012)

Those pods look great! Wish I had the balls to chop my door cards in half...not sure how fancy you're going to go with your false floor, but if you can its a good idea to put some fans blowing air in there, or maybe create some vents & cover with carpet for the top piece. Definitely gets warm, I have a support for mine on that hump behind the 2nd row, and ended up doing four 3"dia holes through it to help with air flow. Will have to snag some pics next time I am home.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Mathematics2 said:


> Those pods look great! Wish I had the balls to chop my door cards in half...not sure how fancy you're going to go with your false floor, but if you can its a good idea to put some fans blowing air in there, or maybe create some vents & cover with carpet for the top piece. Definitely gets warm, I have a support for mine on that hump behind the 2nd row, and ended up doing four 3"dia holes through it to help with air flow. Will have to snag some pics next time I am home.


Thanks i was considering mounting 2 fans behind the middle row of seats to support cooling. This is where i am at so far


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Well drive home to philly was awful. Two hours in started having all sorts of audio problems. After long troubleshooting bouts discovered that my 2 used rockford fosgate t600.2 amps had both blown a channel. Couldnt pick a worse time to happen. Even worse tone of them took my driver side woofer with it. (RIP) legatia l8. I fdid buy another set from the drake after a visit to Raleigh NC. Which my wife thought was for family shopping time. Headed in a new direction now. Sundown sax 125.4. Due to the better bandpass options. I hate when amps dont match so i will now place my brand new Rockfordfosgate t500bdcp up for sale. A shame brand new amp i will never get to Use. $199 for anyone plus shipping to anyone. Ionly Test fitted never fired up for any takers. Subwoofer pod comming soon


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Any updates? Are you coming to the meet on Sept 7?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Yup! Can't wait to be there. I will finally get to hear sq installs. Do you know anyone who could model my subwoofer and vehicle so i can fabricate a better box design for my sub. Idq15v 1?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

So this is my new false floor and amplifiers. Two amps are alot simpler than three. Sax1200d for my subwoofer and sax 125.4 for the front stage. Trying to add plexiglass to the floor but cant afford a wood router at this time. Looking for another way to make the glass fit flush with the floor without a router. Any ideas?


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

I have my L8's for sale if you want a pair of backups


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

I just read thru the entire thread and now I'm really upset over the recent turn of events. If I had an extra l8 I'd send it to ya. All the work you've put into this build, doing things I don't have the guts to attempt yet, it's all pretty inspiring. I look forward to seeing you progress.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Brothers i cant thank you guys enough for your support in my build. Im glad i was able to replace the amps and drivers. I have so much more i want to do. Didnt know how addictive this would be. Also guys i have an alpine pdx-m6 barely used could not return it because my wife thought the box was trash. $190+ shipping


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

nineball76 said:


> I just read thru the entire thread and now I'm really upset over the recent turn of events. If I had an extra l8 I'd send it to ya. All the work you've put into this build, doing things I don't have the guts to attempt yet, it's all pretty inspiring. I look forward to seeing you progress.


Thank you. I was afraid to modify my explorer but you just have to dive in. Take your time and listen to guys with lots of skill and experience like many of those who post in this thread. Focus on one thing at a time and always try to do it the proper way the first time.


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## Serieus (May 27, 2011)

i look forward to seeing this at the meet in a few weeks. also, i may be interested in the pdx-m6 soon if it hasn't found a home before i get some spendable income, i'll send a pm in the next week or so


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Need help with an enclosure. I put my idq15d4 in 1.8 cu. Ft. Gross and it sounds terrible. Low frequencies non exsisting. I doubt the thing even plays any lower than my midbass even when crossed between 20-50hz. Dont know crap about modeling software. All help or ideas appreciated.


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## 2167 (Dec 5, 2007)

does the D4 in model number mean its dual 4ohm? if so check wiring


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

Try using some polyfill. Perhaps start with 1lb then increasing till the sound suits you better. Also you could be having some loading issues. Depending how its facing. SUVs tend to like sub back or up best. Try playing with location. My Yukon had a single 10" and would be 10db quieter on one side than it was on another.


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## nineball76 (Mar 13, 2010)

Also check to make sure your head unit or amps subsonic isn't set to high.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Thanks guys. I will make a new box which is 2.4 cubic feet net, after for .15 driver displacement. Also i will heed to your advice and begin with 1lb. of polyfill. I will also try building it so that it is rear facing. Thanks for the advice. Posting pictures tomorrow of the false floor being wrapped in vinyl. Pictures to come tommorow afternoon.


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

Before you build the new box try moving that current box around and find the spot and direction that gives you the most output. Then you can build the new box to fit that location.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

No longer intend to use this in this install. Only selling because I Want to go with all sundown amplifiers. Used for maybe ten minutes. Wife threw box away. $190 +shipping


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

sorry I was suppose to add these pictures.

I moved the box against the back seat with sub facing the rear and the ceiling. both sound great but i believe rear facing sounds the best. thanks BTW. now i know rear facing most likely the final position ( as if anything is ever final in DIYMA). Now I can move on to building a rear facing 2.5 cu ft. sealed enclosure.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

what do you guys think about mini dsp. being as i don't know **** about time alignment. the concept while yet simple never works for me. I am considering buying one mini dsp to try out on my front in order to achieve 24db cross overs in both high and low pass. As of right know I am limited to just 12db slopes. If it works I will buy an additional one for my sub in order to get a flat eq on the sub stage. thoughts? I can't afford the 8x8 version without knowing if I will like it. 
If I don't like it I will use it for the Dayton RS 180-4 / Dayton RS 28f book shelf I am building for my bedroom.

you guys amaze me with an abundance


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Wife threw box away. $190 +shipping


GF want's to throw away all my boxes lol. All had their factory boxes. A response I know better then to say to her is "I'll throw you away first" :laugh:. I just sold my L8's today and my L3's a few weeks ago and before that my PPI amp. I have the factory boxes for every stereo item we have except her SS ref405 amp. 



dgr932 said:


> ( as if anything is ever final in DIYMA.


Got that right. I use that as an excusse for just getting my install locations in working order LOL. 



dgr932 said:


> what do you guys think about mini dsp. being as i don't know **** about time alignment. the concept while yet simple never works for me. I am considering buying one mini dsp to try out on my front in order to achieve 24db cross overs in both high and low pass. As of right know I am limited to just 12db slopes. If it works I will buy an additional one for my sub in order to get a flat eq on the sub stage. thoughts? I can't afford the 8x8 version without knowing if I will like it.
> If I don't like it I will use it for the Dayton RS 180-4 / Dayton RS 28f book shelf I am building for my bedroom.
> 
> you guys amaze me with an abundance


The minidsp would certainly get you better options including eq.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

07azhhr said:


> Before you build the new box try moving that current box around and find the spot and direction that gives you the most output. Then you can build the new box to fit that location.


 You were right i moved it aroud and noticed that with the back of the box facing the rear seats output is highest. Also associated with placing sub up facing has the most rattling. New box will be rear facing.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Okay So I finally don't need to ride around with my trunk looking like a lumber yard. Today the false floor was vinyl wrapped and 1/4" plexiglass was inserted. I decided to not cut the glass so when I get sick of it from being scratched up I can go to Lowes hardware and buy the exact same piece of glass. It eliminated the need to pull out saws and other tools every time I want to change the glass. Again, this is a daily driver and I use the trunk all the time. Well that is about to change now that I am in love with my trunk. I will try to use it a little less often. groceries will be placed on the back seat.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Here are the pictures. What do you guys think?


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

Get a carpet cover for your specific truck. Then you do not need to worry about scratching the plexi.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Alpine pdx-M6 sold.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

new 9" depth subwoofer enclosure awaiting to be vinyl wrapped 2.5 cu ft net. allows me to keep the majority of my trunk


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

Does it sound better?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Wow this thing sounds so much better. This subs can really go low in a 2.5cu ft box than it did in the 1.8 cu ft enclosure. It also required me to turn the gains down about 50% while still performing better in every aspect. I hate the gaps to the left and right of the enclosure. Box is only 35" wide. While the trunk is 45" wide. Maybe I can create a false housing that sits over top and around it. Like a 45" wide wall with a square cut out for the subwoofers cone. And a false top. Any easier ideas?


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Wow this thing sounds so much better. This subs can really go low in a 2.5cu ft box than it did in the 1.8 cu ft enclosure. It also required me to turn the gains down about 50% while still performing better in every aspect. I hate the gaps to the left and right of the enclosure. Box is only 35" wide. While the trunk is 45" wide. Maybe I can create a false housing that sits over top and around it. Like a 45" wide wall with a square cut out for the subwoofers cone. And a false top. Any easier ideas?


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

dgr932 said:


> Maybe I can create a false housing that sits over top and around it. Like a 45" wide wall with a square cut out for the subwoofers cone. And a false top. Any easier ideas?


This is done all the time. The square cutout would match the amp cutout. I can't tell if the sub is flush mounted but if it is not then perhaps add a circular ring under the square cutout that gives the sub the appearance of being flush mounted.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I am sub'd. This is one nice build. I look forward to hearing it in a couple of weeks. Maybe I can take a sneak peak before hand, I also live in J'ville.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

dgr932 said:


> I hate the gaps to the left and right of the enclosure. Box is only 35" wide. While the trunk is 45" wide. Maybe I can create a false housing that sits over top and around it. Like a 45" wide wall with a square cut out for the subwoofers cone. And a false top. Any easier ideas?





Black Rain said:


> I am sub'd. This is one nice build. I look forward to hearing it in a couple of weeks. Maybe I can take a sneak peak before hand, I also live in J'ville.


Hey dgr you need to look up Black Rain's build log because he did exactly what you are describing to finish off the box in the back of his SUV.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Hey Dgr.... PM me and I can swing by and show you mine and describe how I did it. 

Thanks... Notloudenuf...


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

07azhhr said:


> This is done all the time. The square cutout would match the amp cutout. I can't tell if the sub is flush mounted but if it is not then perhaps add a circular ring under the square cutout that gives the sub the appearance of being flush mounted.


ahh, clever DIYer are you:surprised:. Alighing the square cut out with the amp cutout. I must do this and say it was all my idea. sounds pretty sweet. well you know what my next step is. That is after adding polyfill to the box.

07azhhr Thank you.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

notloudenuf you are the perfect match maker.

Black rain hope to meet up in person. pm sent


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## fast4door (Aug 2, 2012)

really like your build..


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Thanks. Im a newb. Most of the guys Sub'd to this thread have been taking my under their wing


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I will say thanks and your welcome and im sure most others will agree. We all have been there and not one of us knows everything but collectively we can get you all the right answers or guide you in the right direction.


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

Well guys all good things must come to an end. Although i never finished, i have decided to sell my explorer. I am going to be starting a new build log for my recently purchased 1995 nissan 240sx (s14).just tired of unsporty vehicles with poor fuel efficiency. I am in the process of converting it all to oem just need door panels. Willing to trade for stock panels. Thanks to anyone who viewed this log or posted. Igained the so much confidence, skill, knowledge and made friends from this log. Please stay in touch and look towards a 4 way install the near future. Approaching this next one with triple the confidence and will pay more attention to the details


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## dgr932 (Mar 31, 2011)

All the customizations done in this explorer can be had by anyone who wants them. Explorer itself is also being sold. $4900.00 for any takers


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## 07azhhr (Dec 28, 2011)

GL with the new vehicle.


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