# Melting power wire on my sub amp.



## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

I have an 0/1ga. wire feeding into the cab, and an Alpine PDX-M12 mono sub amp fed with 4 feet of power wire to under the seat of my truck. I have a 100A fuse on the line, and after about a month, the sheilding melts, and the power wire oxidizes. I have the gains turned lower than necessary according to my calculations on the MM, using the formula I found here. 

I got sick of this, and put an 80A fuse inline with the sub amp. It still pounds pretty good, but am I going to have the same problem?


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## humandrummachine (May 17, 2010)

Fuse is not your problem unless the holder is connected badly. You have other problems, check your connections and grounding.


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I would honestly pull your fuse and NOT use your sub untill you figure out where the issue is. This is would be one example of why you see cars in flames on the side of the road. As stated above there is def an issue with your connections.. 

Where on the wire are you seeing the jacket melted? By the amp? Fuse holder? Battery?


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## Alpine408 (Feb 11, 2016)

what size of the 4 feet power wire going to the amp?
melting wires is from to much current going threw a wire current = heat 
or bad connection making resistance... resistance = heat 

heat = melting wire 

where is you fuse located ?


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## dugjt88 (Dec 7, 2012)

Sounds like bad connection on that wire or possibly intermittent short.


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## Beckerson1 (Jul 3, 2012)

Alpine408 said:


> what size of the 4 feet power wire going to the amp?
> melting wires is from to much current going threw a wire current = heat
> or bad connection making resistance... resistance = heat
> 
> ...


Up to 2 gauge iirc is what the adaptor handles


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## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

Fuse is located under the shifter panel in the center tunnel. There's a little bubbling of the plastic of the fuse holder, and that's where I'm seeing the melting. Right by the fuse holder. It's not too hot there, as I can put my hand on the metal right above the trans., and it doesn't burn. Maybe a new fuse holder, and try again?

I'm using all KnuKoncepts copper wiring for power and ground. I'll check my ground again, but I think it's pretty solid.


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## dugjt88 (Dec 7, 2012)

ZMan2k2 said:


> Fuse is located under the shifter panel in the center tunnel. There's a little bubbling of the plastic of the fuse holder, and that's where I'm seeing the melting. Right by the fuse holder. It's not too hot there, as I can put my hand on the metal right above the trans., and it doesn't burn. Maybe a new fuse holder, and try again?
> 
> I'm using all KnuKoncepts copper wiring for power and ground. I'll check my ground again, but I think it's pretty solid.


Check your connections at the fuse. sounds like something is loose.


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## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

Underhood chassis ground covered in winter schmutz. Sanded, wiped down with alcohol, put back together, and so far so good. No excessive heat from the wire. I'll keep an eye on it, but for now, that may have been it. Too much resistance at the battery.


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## gstokes (Apr 20, 2014)

the amp is drawing too much current for the conductor to safely handle, either the amp is not functioning correctly and drawing too much current or the circuit feeding the amp is too small, one of the two..


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

I'm going to assume you also have a fuse on your power wire closer to the battery??? I'm also assuming your battery is in your engine compartment? Did you go through the firewall of the car to get into the interior? 

Also are you using Agu or Anl fuses? I've found the Agu type holders can get burning hot due to poor contact of the fuse with the prongs. ANL's and mini Anl for the win there


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## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

Timelessr1 said:


> I'm going to assume you also have a fuse on your power wire closer to the battery??? I'm also assuming your battery is in your engine compartment? Did you go through the firewall of the car to get into the interior?
> 
> Also are you using Agu or Anl fuses? I've found the Agu type holders can get burning hot due to poor contact of the fuse with the prongs. ANL's and mini Anl for the win there


To answer your questions,

Yes, fuse on the power wire under hood, 18" from battery positive. Yes, the battery is in stock location. Yes, I went through a large rubber grommet, where the rest of the wiring goes into the cab for the power wire, no rubbing or chaffing of the wire there. I am using ANL fuses, but the fuse block is a little warped on the one side, where the wire got hot. I'll have to replace it. 

About a year ago, I took an "audio friend's" advice, and put clear coat over my chassis ground under hood. That's when the problem started. I was fine running the setup as is up until that point. I've just today, sanded and tightened down the underhood chassis ground, and cleaned it up from all the clear coat. Should I use dielectric grease on it, if I want to keep it clean, or just check it occasionally, and wash or sand as needed?


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

ZMan2k2 said:


> To answer your questions,
> 
> Yes, fuse on the power wire under hood, 18" from battery positive. Yes, the battery is in stock location. Yes, I went through a large rubber grommet, where the rest of the wiring goes into the cab for the power wire, no rubbing or chaffing of the wire there. I am using AGU fuses. Is that my problem? I can look for an ANL fuse block, but finding one here in Canada may prove difficult. I'll look into it.


I had this exact issue and it was bc of the AGU type holder and fuse. Once I replaced mine with an ANL holder and never had an issue again. After this I threw out all my extra Agu holders... It's not worth the hassle

Here is my thread from a while ago...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/152535-smokin-distro-block.html


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## ZMan2k2 (Mar 11, 2014)

Sorry, I edited my above post. It's mANL.


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## Timelessr1 (Feb 12, 2010)

It sounds like a connection then... Maybe loose... Maybe the ANL holder prong is loose... Things should never get hot enough to melt...


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