# Sealed box for GB12s in 2018 Grand Cherokee



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

This box is going to have some challenges and it might help other guys wanting to do something similar, so I figured it deserves it's own thread... Of course, I enjoy all the input and suggestions from you guys, too! 

Dimensions: 34.5"w x 21"d x 7.5"h

Material: .75" baltic birch plywood

Subs: (2) GB12 D2s

Approx box volume: 2.234 cu.ft (minus 0.147 per, basket displacement)

One of the challenges is that I need to make drop down areas in the bottom of the box for the subs to fit with breathing room. The floor in the Jeep has some recessed areas that I'm going to need to use to make this happen...


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Subscribed, love your build threads Dave.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

V8toilet said:


> Subscribed, love your built threads Dave.


Thanks! And YOU, are always a big help.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

.









Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm gonna pick up the birch and start it tomorrow... 

We have this great full service lumber yard called Ganahl Lumber. I just hand them this piece of paper and take a seat and drink a coffee. A few minutes later I drive my vehicle right into the yard and they load the already cut pieces for my sub box! 

I have lots of tools, but a table saw is not one of them...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

void free baltic birch does not come in 4x8 sheets, it comes in 60" x 60" sheets.

4x8 birch ply is not baltic birch, and is not void free.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> void free baltic birch does not come in 4x8 sheets, it comes in 60" x 60" sheets.
> 
> 4x8 birch ply is not baltic birch, and is not void free.


 Are you sure? I could have sworn my last box was cut out of a 4x8... I have a horrible memory though. 

I'll redraw a plan B for 60x60


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Pretty sure true BB only comes in 5x5 sheets...places like menards play fast and loose and sell birch ply as Baltic Birch. But personally i would only buy the 5x5 sheets.
> 
> Thats is not to say the 4x8 sheets suck...i have never used one. Although if the 4x8 by you is made in china...stay away.
> 
> Just confirm that if they sell both sizes that they come from the same source, and the interior ply's are birch as well.


Thanks for the heads up!!

Plan B:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Pretty sure true BB only comes in 5x5 sheets...places like menards play fast and loose and sell birch ply as Baltic Birch. But personally i would only buy the 5x5 sheets.
> 
> Thats is not to say the 4x8 sheets suck...i have never used one. Although if the 4x8 by you is made in china...stay away.
> 
> Just confirm that if they sell both sizes that they come from the same source, and the interior ply's are birch as well.


It looks like you are right, especially if we are talking about 3/4" thick... In 1/2" thick 4' x 8' is available. Check this out:

https://www.andersonplywood.com/baltic-birch/


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Baltic Birch only comes in 5x5 sheets. Be careful getting similar materials in 4x8 as if they are truly void-free, they will be expensive because they also usually have a nice face to be used in furniture or similar architectural type projects.

For the sub biz, I buy it by the pallet (22 sheets a pallet) and it comes from Russia interestingly enough. True Baltic Birch I guess. I tried to find 4x8 or other void-free and it was just too hard to get and way too expensive. Tried saying I didn’t need a nice surface layer but it doesn’t come that way in most US products.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Making me want to try an af gb10


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> Baltic Birch only comes in 5x5 sheets. Be careful getting similar materials in 4x8 as if they are truly void-free, they will be expensive because they also usually have a nice face to be used in furniture or similar architectural type projects.
> 
> For the sub biz, I buy it by the pallet (22 sheets a pallet) and it comes from Russia interestingly enough. True Baltic Birch I guess. I tried to find 4x8 or other void-free and it was just too hard to get and way too expensive. Tried saying I didn’t need a nice surface layer but it doesn’t come that way in most US products.


Thanks, that's good to know... 



ToNasty said:


> Making me want to try an af gb10


Do it!


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## EmptyKim (Jun 17, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> I'm gonna pick up the birch and start it tomorrow...
> 
> *We have this great full service lumber yard called Ganahl Lumber.* I just hand them this piece of paper and take a seat and drink a coffee. A few minutes later I drive my vehicle right into the yard and they load the already cut pieces for my sub box!
> 
> I have lots of tools, but a table saw is not one of them...


Damn! Good to know! You go to the one in Torrance?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

EmptyKim said:


> Damn! Good to know! You go to the one in Torrance?


Yep, 5 minutes away from me. I'm heading over there shortly. It's a great, higher-end hardware store/lumber yard...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Humble beginnings... These are the drop down pieces that are necessary to fit the GB12s. They are about 8" x 8" on the inside and a hair over .75" height.

I am very careful on my joints... They are tight, smooth and joined with Titebond Ultimate and finishing nails.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Looking good! :thumbsup:


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Nice.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Been watching your research. Looks like a solid start on the build. This will be a good one.


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## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

That nice clean work shop I see in the background is a good sign!

Looking good already.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

If you guys are ever near a Ganahl lumber (especially the Torrance location), go check it out. The entrance is more like a nice hotel and the shopping experience is more like Nordstrom's than Home Depot. 

Check out these pictures... Ganahl Lumber - Withee Malcolm Architects


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

What was the Baltic Birch outcome? Did they have 4x8 sheets?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> What was the Baltic Birch outcome? Did they have 4x8 sheets?


Nope. You were right, 5'x5' only in the 3/4" B/BB 11 ply... Thanks again.


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> Nope. You were right, 5'x5' only in the 3/4" B/BB 11 ply... Thanks again.




What did the 5x5 sheet cost?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Looks great, David! If you haven't already planned it, I would put vertical bracing inside the box at least in the middle between the two subwoofers.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Looks Great....

Just curious, as I do like Baltic Birch, has anyone built 2 identical enclosure between the birch and say MDF or non-baltic plywood to see if there is any audible difference and what the weight difference is?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> Looks Great....
> 
> Just curious, as I do like Baltic Birch, has anyone built 2 identical enclosure between the birch and say MDF or non-baltic plywood to see if there is any audible difference and what the weight difference is?


I have built many boxes for the same subs. both in BB and MDF, but not side by side, but i would predict zero audible difference, and for smaller boxes there is minimal weight difference.

But cutting BB is so much cleaner than MDF. No matter how much dust collection and face masks i wear, when cutting MDF i still cough up mdf crud for days afterwards.

I also cut chinese birch ply once...that was the worst. Between the smell, and the splinters and the dulling of my blade, never again.


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

David, you have some incredible wood working skills. I wish I had your patience and dedication.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Redliner99 said:


> What did the 5x5 sheet cost?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


$60 with all the cuts...



bbfoto said:


> Looks great, David! If you haven't already planned it, I would put vertical bracing inside the box at least in the middle between the two subwoofers.


Thanks! Bracing is in the plans... 



Niebur3 said:


> Looks Great....
> 
> Just curious, as I do like Baltic Birch, has anyone built 2 identical enclosure between the birch and say MDF or non-baltic plywood to see if there is any audible difference and what the weight difference is?


That would interest me too... I don't use the BB for acoustics, though. I just hate mdf, period. Lol

I think mdf might be heavier than BB, but I know that BB is much stiffer and stronger. 




miniSQ said:


> I have built many boxes for the same subs. both in BB and MDF, but not side by side, but i would predict zero audible difference, and for smaller boxes there is minimal weight difference.
> 
> But cutting BB is so much cleaner than MDF. No matter how much dust collection and face masks i wear, when cutting MDF i still cough up mdf crud for days afterwards.
> 
> I also cut chinese birch ply once...that was the worst. Between the smell, and the splinters and the dulling of my blade, never again.


Yeah, the dust is awful, too...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

A little more progress this afternoon... 

First the flush trim bit










Then a round over










Walls are up










Had to figure some **** out! :laugh:









*
OOOOOOPS!!! Cut the hole too big, the sub fell through...*  










*J/K, that's the upper baffle... The mounting baffle will hang below it like the drawing. *

Mounting baffles cut and test fit... Fits great!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Come build my center console, please and thanks


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Stycker said:


> David, you have some incredible wood working skills. I wish I had your patience and dedication.


Hey, thank you very much, man! I enjoy this stuff immensely, so that makes it a lot easier...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Come build my center console, please and thanks


Lol!

Doing a center console would be fun though...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Do you guys think I should add any silicone to the joints after everything's sealed up?

I am going to glue in a sheet of polyfil... It will be covered in nice quality black carpet.

Anything else I should do to make this box the best it can be?


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> *Do you guys think I should add any silicone to the joints after everything's sealed up?*
> 
> I am going to glue in a sheet of polyfil... It will be covered in nice quality black carpet.
> 
> Anything else I should do to make this box the best it can be?


I always do. Be sure to let any silicone fully cure before installing the drivers ...I've heard that the gasses can possibly damage/deteriorate driver materials ...perhaps this is only in the case of foam surrounds(?).


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

...wait, last time I used wood glue instead, pressing a thin bead into/along each inner corner with a finger. Much less messy, and no nasty fumes. With tight joints, this seems to work just as well.


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## gbrnole (Jul 5, 2009)

Grinder said:


> ...wait, last time I used wood glue instead, pressing a thin bead into/along each inner corner with a finger. Much less messy, and no nasty fumes. With tight joints, this seems to work just as well.


do as noted above. You have built a great looking box - most important point now is using a good method to wire the subs so as not to compromise that sealed enclosure but given your great craftsmanship here, I think you know that!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> ...wait, last time I used wood glue instead, pressing a thin bead into/along each inner corner with a finger. Much less messy, and no nasty fumes. With tight joints, this seems to work just as well.


Yep, I did the wood glue bead already, but obviously that shrinks considerably once it's dry... You are right about the silicone's smell, I think I'll just apply a second bead of wood glue.



gbrnole said:


> do as noted above. You have built a great looking box - most important point now is using a good method to wire the subs so as not to compromise that sealed enclosure but given your great craftsmanship here, I think you know that!


Thanks!

I am using these binding posts. I get the holes really snug and add wood glue for good measure... 











Subs will be secured with M5 threaded insert nuts and allen head bolts.

Here are the mounting baffles. Obviously they will be "hung" from the inside...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

One thing I have noticed and really like about these subs, is that the mounting holes are as close as possible to the outside edge. This gives you a good amount of wood to grab on to when using screws and especially threaded insert nuts...

Some subs I have had (I won't name any names) have the screw holes in a place that puts you pretty close to the edge of the wood...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> *Yep, I did the wood glue bead already, but obviously that shrinks considerably once it's dry... You are right about the silicone's smell, I think I'll just apply a second bead of wood glue.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, I always end up with at least one coat/layer/bead of glue at the joints, during the assembly process, before wiping up any runs and excess glue (I'm not happy unless there's glue running out of every bit of seam, so I use plenty...). After that had fully dried, I followed up with a "second" bead of glue (which is what I was referring to in my earlier post). 

Nice work! Looking great!


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> One thing I have noticed and really like about these subs, is that the mounting holes are as close as possible to the outside edge. This gives you a good amount of wood to grab on to when using screws and especially threaded insert nuts...
> 
> *Some subs I have had (I won't name any names) have the screw holes in a place that puts you pretty close to the edge of the wood...*


That's my one gripe with Dayton HF 15s (and HO 12s seemed identical in that regard).


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Yeah, I always end up with at least one coat/layer/bead of glue at the joints, during the assembly process, before wiping up any runs and excess glue (I'm not happy unless there's glue running out of every bit of seam, so I use plenty...). After that had fully dried, I followed up with a "second" bead of glue (which is what I was referring to in my earlier post).
> 
> Nice work! Looking great!



Thanks! I'm gonna definitely do a second bead... I, too, used plenty of glue where you have a drippy mess once the pieces are pressed together.




Grinder said:


> That's my one gripe with Dayton HF 15s (and HO 12s seemed identical in that regard).


Yep, I have seen it a number of times... I feel like this a simple/stupid design element that could be easily done right, but is often done wrong.


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Great work. Definitely a great example of box building.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Couple . things...this has made me want to do the same type of box in my crosstrek. 

And , you asked for suggestions. I think you should run a solid divider down the middle so that it becomes 2 identical sealed boxes.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

miniSQ said:


> Couple . things...this has made me want to do the same type of box in my crosstrek.
> 
> And , you asked for suggestions. *I think you should run a solid divider down the middle so that it becomes 2 identical sealed boxes.*


+1 (primarily for the sake of overall rigidity)


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## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> Do you guys think I should add any silicone to the joints after everything's sealed up?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I always do just to for piece of mind on top of the glue 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

miniSQ said:


> Couple things...this has made me want to do the same type of box in my crosstrek.
> 
> And, you asked for suggestions. *I think you should run a solid divider down the middle so that it becomes 2 identical sealed boxes.*


+2

That's my general M.O. as well.  Though it might be too late for that?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Niebur3 said:


> Great work. Definitely a great example of box building.


Thanks a lot, Jerry!



miniSQ said:


> Couple . things...this has made me want to do the same type of box in my crosstrek.
> 
> And , you asked for suggestions. I think you should run a solid divider down the middle so that it becomes 2 identical sealed boxes.


Yikes, too late, there's no room for that now. The subs had to be too close together for the magnets to fit in the cutouts, so the baffles are already touching...  Since they only have about 3/4" grabbing onto the upper baffle, I don't want to reduce that to fit a divider between them. 





Grinder said:


> +1 (primarily for the sake of overall rigidity)


I am going to brace this thing very well... With this 3/4" Baltic birch, though, this thing is crazy rigid already, AND the additional baffles on the top panel and cutouts in the bottom panel have only added to the rigidity of it. 

I was thinking... The only place there could a potential air leak is through the insert nuts/screws. Would that be a place to use silicone? 
Or maybe I'll just screw in the threaded insert nuts and add a layer of 1/4 plywood over them to seal the openings...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bbfoto said:


> +2
> 
> That's my general M.O. as well.  Though it might be too late for that?


Damn it, you guys!!! :laugh: 

I guess if I really had to, I could chop up the mounting baffles and make it fit, but I'm not sure I want to do that. 

Putting rigidity aside, are there more benefits to doing this?? Obviously, there would be a slight loss in interior volume to the dividing panel itself...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks a lot, Jerry!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Seems like you're in good shape. A couple/few braces in lieu of a center panel should suffice.

Hmmm... Not sure I'd want silicone anywhere near inserts (lest it lead to binding one or more of the machine thread screws/bolts). I've never used inserts (other than hurricane nuts, which fit very tightly into the wood), but I'd think they would form a sufficient seal to the wood; and I can't imagine much leakage getting through and past the machine threads and screw/bolt heads(?).


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Seems like you're in good shape.
> 
> Hmmm... Not sure I'd want silicone anywhere near inserts (lest it lead to binding one or more of the machine thread screws/bolts). I've never used inserts (other than hurricane nuts, which fit very tightly into the wood), but I'd think they would form a sufficient seal to the wood; and I can't imagine much leakage getting through the machine threads(?).




Yeah, that's what I meant, air leaking through the threads... OCD, too much?! LOL


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Yeah, that's what I meant, air leaking through the threads... OCD, too much?! LOL


Come to think of it, I do believe it is a legitimate concern. You might find suitable sealing washers - stainless steel washers with tough rubber center and underside. With gasket/rubber flange seal on drivers sealing the underside, and sealing washers sealing the topside, there should be no leaks.


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## gbrnole (Jul 5, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Damn it, you guys!!! :laugh:
> 
> I guess if I really had to, I could chop up the mounting baffles and make it fit, but I'm not sure I want to do that.
> 
> Putting rigidity aside, are there more benefits to doing this?? Obviously, there would be a slight loss in interior volume to the dividing panel itself...


I'd leave the baffles as is and instead take the router to the diving piece and cut a narrower channel to just fit between the baffles.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

gbrnole said:


> I'd leave the baffles as is and instead take the router to the diving piece and cut a narrower channel to just fit between the baffles.


Makes sense... but, unfortunately, the panels are touching.


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

miniSQ said:


> Couple . things...this has made me want to do the same type of box in my crosstrek.
> 
> And , you asked for suggestions. I think you should run a solid divider down the middle so that it becomes 2 identical sealed boxes.


somebody smarter than me recommended this in case one driver fails. If one driver fails, then the other driver will be working in a box that is too big and may be overdriven. Then you will have two broken subs.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*With the dividing panel, is this primarily to re-enforce/brace the box, or is there a benefit to the sound and performance with the subs separated??*


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

DavidRam said:


> *With the dividing panel, is this primarily to re-enforce/brace the box, or is there a benefit to the sound and performance with the subs separated??*


more for an added brace. you will not notice any difference in sound or performance.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Stycker said:


> more for an added brace. you will not notice any difference in sound or performance.


Thanks. That's what I was thinking... 

Don't worry gentlemen, this thing will be braced like a mofo!  

I'll take a picture of me standing on it at it's weakest point and it will not even flex one human hair! Lol


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

Grinder said:


> I always do. Be sure to let any silicone fully cure before installing the drivers ...I've heard that the gasses can possibly damage/deteriorate driver materials ...perhaps this is only in the case of foam surrounds(?).


Most silicon caulk uses acetic acid (vinegar), which is corrosive to metal, some caulks use other solvents that could be harmful to foam/rubber/plastic.


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

ckirocz28 said:


> Most silicon caulk uses acetic acid (vinegar), which is corrosive to metal, some caulks use other solvents that could be harmful to foam/rubber/plastic.


Thanks. Good to know. Makes sense too - I've mostly used stuff that smells a lot like vinegar, and sometimes other pricier stuff (for outdoor sealing projects) that smells more like model glue (solvents).


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

DavidRam said:


> Yeah, that's what I meant, air leaking through the threads... OCD, too much?! LOL


you could use pipe joint compound,,,US Part Number: 80045 
will stop air leaks .


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

toneloc2 said:


> you could use pipe joint compound,,,US Part Number: 80045
> will stop air leaks .


Great idea!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

toneloc2 said:


> you could use pipe joint compound,,,US Part Number: 80045
> will stop air leaks .


That's a great idea! I thought of plumbers tape, but this stuff looks better...

Do you know if it hardens when it dries?

On a separate note, I ordered a 3/4" round over bit because the largest I have is 1/2". I'd like to give the front and back edges of the top panel a a nice deep radius...

The sides will be 1/4" or nothing. I have plans to make some aluminum panels for the sides to tie it into the amp rack and make it not look like some regular old sub box.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

It doesn’t dry out but takes a harder forum.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> That's a great idea [pipe joint compound]! I thought of plumbers tape, but this stuff looks better...
> 
> Do you know if it hardens when it dries?


No, it does not completely dry or harden when used for its intended purpose on pipe fittings. However, wood may absorb and draw out the oils from the compound. It might be fine, but personally I wouldn't use it.

I generally just use a small dab of silicone caulk, 5-minute Epoxy glue, or a really small amount of the exterior/waterproof, gap-filling/expanding Gorilla Glue on the inside of those terminals before I put on and tighten the small washer & nuts. It's probably a non-issue, but this can also help keep the nuts on the terminals from loosening over time due to subwoofer vibration.

In reality, I don't think air leakage will be a problem when using those terminals, as long as the holes are not oversized and they fit tightly.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bbfoto said:


> No, it does not dry or harden when used for its intended purpose on pipe fittings. However, wood may absorb the oils from the compound. It might be fine, but personally I wouldn't use it.
> 
> I generally just use a small dab of silicone caulk, 5-minute Epoxy glue, or a really small amount of the exterior/waterproof, gap-filling/expanding Gorilla Glue on the inside of those terminals before I put on and tighten the small washer & nuts. It's probably a non-issue, but this can also help keep the nuts on the terminals from loosening over time due to subwoofer vibration.


Ok cool. We might be talking about two things... One, the screws and insert nuts that will hold the subs down, and sealing them from air passing through the threads. Two, the binding posts terminals, which I am definitely going to use some epoxy on, like you suggested.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Ok cool. We might be talking about two things... One, the screws and insert nuts that will hold the subs down, and sealing them from air passing through the threads. Two, the binding posts terminals, which I am definitely going to use some epoxy on, like you suggested.


Ahhh, yes. For the threaded inserts used to mount the sub to the box, pipe joint compound on the threads of the machine screws should be fine.  But I would use a very minimal amount. The subwoofer's mounting flange gasket should do its job to seal air leaks around the mounting holes as well.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bbfoto said:


> Ahhh, yes. For the threaded inserts used to mount the sub to the box, pipe joint compound on the threads of the machine screws should be fine.  But I would use a very minimal amount. The subwoofer's mounting flange gasket should do its job to seal air leaks around the mounting holes as well.


Sounds good. I'm probably going to use Frost King foam rubber tape as a gasket.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Sounds good. I'm probably going to use Frost King foam rubber tape as a gasket.


https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540


I have a lot of the Frost King stuff in my garage, but it's all 5/16" thick and I do like the thinner 1/8" stuff from PE... Thanks for the link


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Usually when I do a flush mount sub, I will just double up on the baffle as it makes it very rigid.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Sine Swept said:


> Usually when I do a flush mount sub, I will just double up on the baffle as it makes it very rigid.


I seriously considered doing that, but it would reduce the cu.ft by 12% or .28 and I have tried really hard to push this box's size to the max I can fit in the Jeep. 
I will brace it really well... 

I am definitely a sealed over ported guy in terms of sound, but I have only had small sealed boxes - two BM Mk Vs in .6 cuft each, two 10TW3s in .65 cuft each, etc.. I want this box to be different.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

DavidRam said:


> I seriously considered doing that, but it would reduce the cu.ft by 12% or .28 and I have tried really hard to push this box's size to the max I can fit in the Jeep.
> I will brace it really well...
> 
> I am definitely a sealed over ported guy in terms of sound, but I have only had small sealed boxes - two BM Mk Vs in .6 cuft each, two 10TW3s in .65 cuft each, etc.. I want this box to be different.


come on David who you try to kid? you left the dark-side now your in a jeep GRAND CHEROKEE...... not a real jeep. lol sorry but i liked you more when you were on this side.... just k lol.
lov the build


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

toneloc2 said:


> DavidRam said:
> 
> 
> > I seriously considered doing that, but it would reduce the cu.ft by 12% or .28 and I have tried really hard to push this box's size to the max I can fit in the Jeep.
> ...


So youre saying He went from a college girl jeep to a sophisticated jeep? I like david more now


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

That hurt


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

toneloc2 said:


> come on David who you try to kid? you left the dark-side now your in a jeep GRAND CHEROKEE...... not a real jeep. lol sorry but i liked you more when you were on this side.... just k lol.
> lov the build


For sure... but, but, but it's Trail Rated, too! Lol

Honestly, some days I regret selling that Jeep, I loved it... Now I'm in a soccer mom "Jeep"... The upcoming Scrambler has caught my attention, though. 



ToNasty said:


> So youre saying He went from a college girl jeep to a sophisticated jeep? I like david more now


He's talking about this little guy... 
































toneloc2 said:


> That hurt


All in good fun.


----------



## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DavidRam said:


> For sure... but, but, but it's Trail Rated, too! Lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup college girl. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

College girl to soccer mom All fun.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

ToNasty said:


> Yup college girl.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Yep, that's what I would pick up in it! 

(honey, if you are reading this, I'm totally kidding) :laugh:


----------



## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

I think you mean college boys but moral of the story is you massively upgraded. So ill allow it

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

One of my employee's saw this picture and asked if it was a dual porta potty! I thought that was really funny! :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

A little more progress:

Bracing... Drew it out, drilled, then made the rough cuts with a jig saw.










Flush trim bit










Round over bit










Mounted the baffles and filled all the nail holes










It fits










I installed T-nuts instead of threaded insert nuts, because I didn't like the quality of the insert nuts I have in M5 (which is the largest that will fit in the GB12s screw holes).
My OCD go the better of me and I cut out little pieces of 1/4" plywood, hollowed them out a little on the inside and gave the T-nuts some airtight covers


----------



## JCsAudio (Jun 16, 2014)

Your nuts Dave, get it, nuts. :laugh:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

V8toilet said:


> Your nuts Dave, get it, nuts. :laugh:


Yep! Lol


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Bracing is done... Yes, that's 101 layers of baltic birch stacked and glue together.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Polyfil done with spray adhesive.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Nice work! It has never occurred to me to get the poly in before mounting the baffle. Makes a lot of sense. Very neat and tidy.


----------



## lasakro (May 21, 2017)

Nice box but where did the spare go?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Nice work! It has never occurred to me to get the poly in before mounting the baffle. Makes a lot of sense. Very neat and tidy.


Thanks! Especially with spray adhesive, it'd be very hard to do with the baffle on.


lasakro said:


> Nice box but where did the spare go?


Thanks! No spare. I have never used one and the audio needed the space...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

So I'm pretty sure this is how I would wire them, right?

Two GB12 D2s (with the subs set to 4 ohm) wired to 2 ohm...


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> So I'm pretty sure this is how I would wire them, right?
> 
> Two GB12 D2s (with the subs set to 4 ohm) wired to 2 ohm...


If each of those subs' coils are 4 ohm, each sub wired parallel with itself as shown yields 2 ohms. Those two subs wired in parallel with each other as shown yields 1 ohm.


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> So I'm pretty sure this is how I would wire them, right?
> 
> Two GB12 D2s (with the subs set to 4 ohm) wired to 2 ohm...


The GB series will only have 1 set of speaker terminals per driver. Slide the switch to either 1 or 4 and then you would wire the two subs in series or in parallel depending on which one you choose to end up with the 2 ohm load. 

It would be simpler to go down to 1 on both subs, then connect the + of one sub to the - of the other, and then run the remain + and - to the amp.

But check with Andy or Skiizr to see if there is a best practice on this sub for choosing 1 or 4.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> If each of those subs' coils are 4 ohm, each sub wired parallel with itself as shown yields 2 ohms. Those two subs wired in parallel with each other as shown yields 1 ohm.





miniSQ said:


> The GB series will only have 1 set of speaker terminals per driver. Slide the switch to either 1 or 4 and then you would wire the two subs in series or in parallel depending on which one you choose to end up with the 2 ohm load.
> 
> It would be simpler to go down to 1 on both subs, then connect the + of one sub to the - of the other, and then run the remain + and - to the amp.
> 
> But check with Andy or Skiizr to see if there is a best practice on this sub for choosing 1 or 4.




Thanks guys... For some reason, wiring subs confuses the **** out of me. Now that I have a switch in the mix that I never had before, I'm even more confused. :blush:

Because of the switch, do I think of it as a SVC because it only has one connection, and just set the switch to 4 ohm?

Like this?


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks guys... For some reason, wiring subs confuses the **** out of me. Now that I have a switch in the mix that I never had before, I'm even more confused. :blush:
> 
> Because of the switch, do I think of it as a SVC because it only has one connection, and just set the switch to 4 ohm?
> 
> Like this?


Yes, exactly.


----------



## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Grinder said:


> Yes, exactly.


Or if you want to set the switch to 1, you could do this. Series wiring of 2 subs.

https://mobileinstallguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/2-SVC-Sub-Series.jpg


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

miniSQ said:


> Or if you want to set the switch to 1, you could do this. Series wiring of 2 subs.
> 
> https://mobileinstallguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/2-SVC-Sub-Series.jpg


From https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374150-Speaker-Wiring-Tutorial
<fixed>



> The benefits of the dual voice coil design are even more apparent with multiple subwoofer installations. If we were to use two of either of the drivers mentioned above, what would the final impedance possibilities be? With two of the dual 4 ohm drivers, we can wire the voice coils of each driver in series and the drivers in parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance. We can also wire the voice coils of each driver in parallel and the drivers in parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance.* With two of the single 8 ohm drivers, only a 4 ohm final impedance can be the result of recommended wiring. Why? Because all driver-to-driver wiring should be done in parallel and two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel will yield a 4 ohm final impedance.
> *It is far less desirable to make subwoofer to subwoofer connections in series. Due to slight and unavoidable differences between speakers and the high likelihood of uneven loading between different speakers in a car, there will be slight differences in the mechanical behavior of the two speakers in series. These differences in movement result in the creation of induced voltage (called back EMF) by the speakers across the series connection. This effect causes a problem when two speakers that behave differently are connected in series because the speakers can modulate each other (cause each other to move), resulting in distortion. The problem becomes more serious as more speakers are connected in series.*



Also: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2069771-post7.html


----------



## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

Grinder said:


> From https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...iring-Tutorial
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Set the switch on 4 and run all positives together and all negatives from amp to subs. They are dvc but only have one terminal 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Or if you want to set the switch to 1, you could do this. Series wiring of 2 subs.
> 
> https://mobileinstallguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/2-SVC-Sub-Series.jpg


Actually, I originally wanted to wire them to 1 ohm, but didn't think it was possible with D2 subs (I got the D2, because the D4 were out of stock).



Grinder said:


> From https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...iring-Tutorial
> 
> Also: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2069771-post7.html


The JL link doesn't work... What does it say?


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Actually, I originally wanted to wire them to 1 ohm, but didn't think it was possible with D2 subs (I got the D2, because the D4 were out of stock).
> 
> 
> 
> The JL link doesn't work... What does it say?


What miniSQ meant was that there is an alternate way to wire these subs to two ohms (i.e. switch each sub to 1 ohm, then wire them in series with each other).

The gist of my post was that it is generally better to wire subs in parallel with one another than in series (i.e. the ideal configuration in your case would be to switch each sub to 4 ohms an wire them in parallel with each other.

Here's the JL link: 

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374150-Speaker-Wiring-Tutorial


Once again, here is the pertinent section of that JL tutorial:



> The benefits of the dual voice coil design are even more apparent with multiple subwoofer installations. If we were to use two of either of the drivers mentioned above, what would the final impedance possibilities be? With two of the dual 4 ohm drivers, we can wire the voice coils of each driver in series and the drivers in parallel and get a 4 ohm final impedance. We can also wire the voice coils of each driver in parallel and the drivers in parallel and get a 1 ohm final impedance.* With two of the single 8 ohm drivers, only a 4 ohm final impedance can be the result of recommended wiring. Why? Because all driver-to-driver wiring should be done in parallel and two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel will yield a 4 ohm final impedance.
> *It is far less desirable to make subwoofer to subwoofer connections in series. Due to slight and unavoidable differences between speakers and the high likelihood of uneven loading between different speakers in a car, there will be slight differences in the mechanical behavior of the two speakers in series. These differences in movement result in the creation of induced voltage (called back EMF) by the speakers across the series connection. This effect causes a problem when two speakers that behave differently are connected in series because the speakers can modulate each other (cause each other to move), resulting in distortion. The problem becomes more serious as more speakers are connected in series.*


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Redliner99 said:


> They are dvc but only have one terminal.


Yes, that has already been made abundantly clear.




Redliner99 said:


> Set the switch on 4 and run all positives together and all negatives from amp to subs.


Yes, this is precisely what I have been suggesting.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys! I don't know why I'm so dumb when it comes to this stuff... Lol


----------



## mzmtg (Dec 8, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> One of my employee's saw this picture and asked if it was a dual porta potty! I thought that was really funny! :laugh::laugh::laugh:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avb1XbO0EIs


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

mzmtg said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avb1XbO0EIs


Lol! Yep, that's it! :laugh:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

3/4" roundover done... That's a beefy bit!




















I sealed off the openings so no dust or spray adhesive goes inside... All the nail holes are sealed, additional wood glue bead on all corners and box fully sanded smooth with 100 grit. Next will be 1/4" roundover on the remaining corners and then wrap this thing up with carpet. FINALLY!


----------



## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Looks great! Very nice craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Only one point on the router bit is to take multiple passes with the 3/4" The dark lines are likely caused by burning by the bit. If you take a shallow last pass, you shouldn't have any burning and it would be a cleaner cut.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

dgage said:


> Looks great! Very nice craftsmanship and attention to detail.
> 
> Only one point on the router bit is to take multiple passes with the 3/4" The dark lines are likely caused by burning by the bit. If you take a shallow last pass, you shouldn't have any burning and it would be a cleaner cut.


Great tip, thanks! I just thought it was a combination of cheap bits and really tough wood...


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Top notch!

If you're like me, you're not exactly enthusiastic about applying the carpet. Having little experience with carpet, and having never carpeted anything with rounded edges, I'm trying to imagine how the corners might be done (yet nonetheless confident that it'll look awesome when you're done).


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Top notch!
> 
> If you're like me, you're not exactly enthusiastic about applying the carpet. Having little experience with carpet, and having never carpeted anything with rounded edges, I'm trying to imagine how the corners might be done (yet nonetheless confident that it'll look awesome when you're done).


Thank you!!

Speaking of carpet... 



















Other side










Gasket strip in


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

Very nice work.. you got some skills!


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

WOW, that was fast! 

Looking very nice! How exciting, I bet you can just about hear them at this point.


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## dgage (Oct 1, 2013)

Grinder said:


> WOW, that was fast!
> 
> Looking very nice! How exciting, I bet you can just about hear them at this point.


I’d already be listening to them but carpet would be another 6 months away. Great progress!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Mlarson67 said:


> Very nice work.. you got some skills!





Grinder said:


> WOW, that was fast!
> 
> Looking very nice! How exciting, I bet you can just about hear them at this point.





dgage said:


> I’d already be listening to them but carpet would be another 6 months away. Great progress!



Thanks guys! I have enjoyed this immensely! Big thanks to all the guys who helped with ideas, advise, suggestions, compliments, etc.! 

Since I have documented every other tiny details, here's this: 










It fits perfectly. So snug that you can't budge it even a hair to the left or right! Front to back there is about 1" to pull it into place and bolt it down once the amp rack is in place.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Just to confirm that this is how they should be wired (you guys know by now this confuses the **** out of me), with the switches set to 4 ohm, right?? :blush:


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

dgage said:


> I’d already be listening to them but carpet would be another 6 months away. Great progress!


Same here, LOL. It was almost five months before I got around to carpeting my HF 15s.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Just to confirm that this is how they should be wired (you guys know by now this confuses the **** out of me), with the switches set to 4 ohm, right?? :blush:


Affirmative (for 2 ohm load at amp).


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks guys! I have enjoyed this immensely! Big thanks to all the guys who helped with ideas, advise, suggestions, compliments, etc.!
> 
> Since I have documented every other tiny details, here's this:
> 
> ...


That is SWEET!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Affirmative (for 2 ohm load at amp).





Grinder said:


> That is SWEET!


Thanks and thanks!!! Last year I built my first sub box ever for the 10TW3s and it turned out ok. This is my second box and I am much happier with it! 

BUT I could not do this stuff without all the help I get from all of you guys...


----------



## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Shiny! Carpeting the box is actually pretty satisfying just make sure to break out a fresh razor blade. What did you use for adhesive?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Sine Swept said:


> Shiny! Carpeting the box is actually pretty satisfying just make sure to break out a fresh razor blade. What did you use for adhesive?


It really is! I used this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-2267...ocphy=9031025&hvtargid=pla-457406514132&psc=1

I would have liked a few more minutes for placement, but it worked quite well otherwise. 
I hear ya, I used a brand new exacto knife.


----------



## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

I understand the need for carpet, but the awesome job you did on the box would have made it tough for me to cover up... Nice work!


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## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

David-

Great work! I love the bracing! I wish the carpet on my box turned out half as nice

A question that I have had for a while in regards to binding posts: Why use them? For boxes like this I generally just run the wire out and caulk the hole or use a Speakon connector (https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl4mpr). I am always worried that having exposed speaker terminals out in the middle of a car could be shorted by something.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OldNewbie said:


> David-
> 
> Great work! I love the bracing! I wish the carpet on my box turned out half as nice
> 
> A question that I have had for a while in regards to binding posts: Why use them? For boxes like this I generally just run the wire out and caulk the hole or use a Speakon connector (https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl4mpr). I am always worried that having exposed speaker terminals out in the middle of a car could be shorted by something.


Thank you!

And it's a good point you make... In my case, I placed the binding posts where there is no way anything could touch them. That is one of the reasons they are there (of course proximity to the bass amp was a factor, too).


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

mumbles said:


> I understand the need for carpet, but the awesome job you did on the box would have made it tough for me to cover up... Nice work!



Thank you! Before I covered it with the carpet, I did spend some time gazing at the plywood until I felt I was ready... Lol  

For me, I take as much pleasure in the process of making stuff, as I do in actually using the stuff.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Btw, here is the carpet that I used... It's really great stuff - really thick, but relatively easy to manipulate.
Paul from NetAudio recommend this stuff to me.

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-C...rpet&qid=1554387960&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull


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## OldNewbie (Jan 12, 2019)

Yeah, my wife doesn't understand why it takes me so long to finish my install (besides the fact that working in a garage that is 20 degrees is not conducive to getting to any work done)! Spring is now here so I should be able to finish up.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OldNewbie said:


> Yeah, my wife doesn't understand why it takes me so long to finish my install (besides the fact that working in a garage that is 20 degrees is not conducive to getting to any work done)! Spring is now here so I should be able to finish up.


Very understandable! My garage temps range from 50 to 80 year-round.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

After all this, you can imagine that my garage has a nice thick layer of dust EVERYWHERE! 

I need to go through it with the shop vac and blower, ASAP!


----------



## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> Very understandable! My garage temps range from 50 to 80 year-round.


OOOHHH... I get it. Redondo Beach


----------



## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> After all this, you can imagine that my garage has a nice thick layer of dust EVERYWHERE!
> 
> I need to go through it with the shop vac and blower, ASAP!


Well, it would've been way worse if you had used MDF, so there's that! 

Nice work! I'm assuming the Carpet Color you used from the Amazon link was Black? I think I'll try some of the "Graphite" for my install so thanks for the tip.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bbfoto said:


> Well, it would've been way worse if you had used MDF, so there's that!
> 
> Nice work! I'm assuming the Carpet Color you used from the Amazon link was Black? I think I'll try some of the "Graphite" for my install so thanks for the tip.


Yes, I like my carpet the way I like my... 





coffee! 



You will appreciate how thick, yet flexible it is. Great quality carpet, I haven't seen better...


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

I've really enjoyed this build. Any chance you could start over to keep us entertained?

Great work!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> I've really enjoyed this build. Any chance you could start over to keep us entertained?
> 
> Great work!


Lol! Thanks!

I kinda wish it wasn't over, too... I really enjoyed it and learned a lot along the way.


----------



## Dan750iL (Jan 16, 2016)

Here's a question I always have too many answers to when I finish a project:
What would you do differently if you did start over?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dan750iL said:


> Here's a question I always have too many answers to when I finish a project:
> What would you do differently if you did start over?


Hmmmm, good question... if I started over, I would make it more complicated and intricate in it's design and shape. I would make it have more of a design in itself, rather than a just a rectangular box...


----------



## uhtjoogoorih (Mar 12, 2009)

David, that box turned out awesome! I'm from socal too but moved out to GA for work haha. When I go back to visit my family would you mind if I had a listen to your setup? And always nice to meet up with car/car audio people!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

uhtjoogoorih said:


> David, that box turned out awesome! I'm from socal too but moved out to GA for work haha. When I go back to visit my family would you mind if I had a listen to your setup? And always nice to meet up with car/car audio people!


Thanks man! You are welcome anytime...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

They're in










Flush as you'd like











The GBs are a rather bland looking sub, but I have got plans for that, too. 

I'm going to bring some more brushed aluminum wrapping up over the sub box with LEDs...


----------



## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Box looks good. I'm seeing a lot of tension on those cables. Power, grounds, especially the rca's. 

I'd like to see better cable routing. Straight out 90 with some easy curves. 

Less Tesa tape. more planning.


----------



## Redliner99 (Mar 26, 2018)

OCD66 said:


> Box looks good. I'm seeing a lot of tension on those cables. Power, grounds, especially the rca's.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




After looking at his box build I HIGHLY doubt all that stuff will be left like that 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Redliner99 said:


> After looking at his box build I HIGHLY doubt all that stuff will be left like that
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ya, I get it. probably just a mock up.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

OCD66 said:


> Box looks good. I'm seeing a lot of tension on those cables. Power, grounds, especially the rca's.
> 
> I'd like to see better cable routing. Straight out 90 with some easy curves.
> 
> Less Tesa tape. more planning.





Redliner99 said:


> After looking at his box build I HIGHLY doubt all that stuff will be left like that
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





OCD66 said:


> Ya, I get it. probably just a mock up.


Yep, the rack is a mess as some changes are being made... It will go back to together all neat and tidy.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BTW, I'm sure you guys can identify with this... It was a really satisfying feeling to let the subs drop into their openings. 
It was snug enough to where there was a little pressure from the carpet, but not enough to where I had to force them in... They just sorta gently slid down into place. Also, the holes and t-nuts all lined up nicely, so that's a bonus too.
Of course I had to take the time to polish the ss allen bolt heads to a high shine! Lol


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> BTW, I'm sure you guys can identify with this... It was a really satisfying feeling to let the subs drop into their openings.
> It was snug enough to where there was a little pressure from the carpet, but not enough to where I had to force them in... They just sorta gently slid down into place. Also, the holes and t-nuts all lined up nicely, so that's a bonus too.
> Of course I had to take the time to polish the ss allen bolt heads to a high shine! Lol


Nice! 

What size bolts/screws/t-nuts did you use?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Nice!
> 
> What size bolts/screws/t-nuts did you use?


M5. It's the largest that will fit in the GB12s holes... I have M6 on hand, but I'd have to make the holes a hair larger to fit them and that's really unnecessary.


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

DavidRam said:


> M5. It's the largest that will fit in the GB12s holes... I have M6 on hand, but I'd have to make the holes a hair larger to fit them and that's really unnecessary.


Yeah, M5 is plenty large enough. It's good to have some wiggle room, in case holes aren't lining up perfectly.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Yeah, M5 is plenty large enough. It's good to have some wiggle room, in case holes aren't lining up perfectly.


Exactly.

If they were big heavy subs down firing, that would be a whole different issue... But for my purposes, 8 x M5 bolts are fine.


----------



## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Btw, here is the carpet that I used... It's really great stuff - really thick, but relatively easy to manipulate.
> Paul from NetAudio recommend this stuff to me.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-C...rpet&qid=1554387960&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull





bbfoto said:


> ...Nice work! I'm assuming the Carpet Color you used from the Amazon link was Black? I think I'll try some of the "Graphite" for my install so thanks for the tip.


Just wanted to say THANKS again for the Carpet link.  I ordered the "Graphite" color and it was just about a perfect match. I just carpeted the subwoofer box for the install I'm working on now in my GF's Santa Fe and it looks great. Definitely thick and good quality. :thumbsup:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

bbfoto said:


> Just wanted to say THANKS again for the Carpet link.  I ordered the "Graphite" color and it was just about a perfect match. I just carpeted the subwoofer box for the install I'm working on now in my GF's Santa Fe and it looks great. Definitely thick and good quality. :thumbsup:


Cool. You'll be surprised how easy it is to wrap around corners, despite it's thickness...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Here is the next phase of this sub box build - There will be LED strips between the aluminum strips and the box, aimed inwards toward the subs. 

I don't have much experience working with wood, but I do a lot of fabrication with aluminum and SS. 

I have a metal brake, but I needed to bend them at the exact 3/4" radius as the box so they would contour perfectly. 

I glued some pieces of the plywood together (it's amazing all the uses you get from a single 5'x5' piece of birch ply, lol) and gave them the same 3/4" roundover as the sub box...




























It wasn't easy, this 1/8" thick stuff is stiffer than you think... I heated it up with a heat gun to keep it from cracking or showing stress marks. 




















I always bend first and cut to size last...


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

That's gonna look sweet!


----------



## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

Grinder said:


> That's gonna look sweet!


You had me at the box


----------



## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Stycker said:


> You had me at the box


Indeed.


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## autokraftgt (Aug 28, 2012)

Wow that is a good looking box Dave!! You're doing awesome work. I made a simple 1.2 cu/ft sealed downfire box for my new truck a while back but it's nothing near the level of this. Have you powered them up? I was thinking about running a single GB12 and may in the future but I got a good deal on my friend's idmax12 so im running that for the mean time. Can't wait to hear your impressions on these subs. Great Great work Dave!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

autokraftgt said:


> Wow that is a good looking box Dave!! You're doing awesome work. I made a simple 1.2 cu/ft sealed downfire box for my new truck a while back but it's nothing near the level of this. Have you powered them up? I was thinking about running a single GB12 and may in the future but I got a good deal on my friend's idmax12 so im running that for the mean time. Can't wait to hear your impressions on these subs. Great Great work Dave!!


Thanks man!! As you can tell, I have really taken to this hobby and love it! Funny how things started with Kicker drop-ins and underseat sub in my RCSB, remember? You, Brad, Etroze and a couple other guys...

Yes, I powered them up, but haven't tuned anything yet. The new box came with a lot of other changes (new Helix DSP and adding rear fill), so I am starting pretty much from scratch. They definitely sound like they are going to sound good. Lol 

I read something about a Raptor, so you don't have your Ram anymore?


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## autokraftgt (Aug 28, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks man!! As you can tell, I have really taken to this hobby and love it! Funny how things started with Kicker drop-ins and underseat sub in my RCSB, remember? You, Brad, Etroze and a couple other guys...
> 
> Yes, I powered them up, but haven't tuned anything yet. The new box came with a lot of other changes (new Helix DSP and adding rear fill), so I am starting pretty much from scratch. They definitely sound like they are going to sound good. Lol
> 
> I read something about a Raptor, so you don't have your Ram anymore?


Yea, got out of the Ram, it was approaching 100k miles, great truck. Got into a 2012 Raptor for a really good deal. Finished the audio about a year ago..still needs fine tuned but sounds pretty good. I remember when you were asking about Kicker and the sub...I think we steered you into the right direction lol.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

autokraftgt said:


> Yea, got out of the Ram, it was approaching 100k miles, great truck. Got into a 2012 Raptor for a really good deal. Finished the audio about a year ago..still needs fine tuned but sounds pretty good. I remember when you were asking about Kicker and the sub...I think we steered you into the right direction lol.


A Raptor isn't a bad replacement...  I like them a lot. 

You guys definitely steered me in the right direction!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I made some strips out of oak with threaded inserts in them to attach the LEDs and screw the aluminum to:




























and DONE!



















The lights are not nearly as glaring as they appear in the picture, they are much softer and more of an ambient glow...


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## Grinder (Dec 18, 2016)

Very nice work! That looks killer!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Grinder said:


> Very nice work! That looks killer!


Thanks man! I'm pretty happy with how it came out...


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## jcesl2 (Nov 14, 2018)

Looks good. I like the aluminum straps. Matches.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

jcesl2 said:


> Looks good. I like the aluminum straps. Matches.


Thank you.


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## Stycker (Jan 31, 2018)

Everything looks fantastic. Are those special 12 volt lights intended for automotive use or is there some sort of transformer needed. I put similar light strips in the bed of my truck but they were plug and play for their intended use.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Stycker said:


> Everything looks fantastic. Are those special 12 volt lights intended for automotive use or is there some sort of transformer needed. I put similar light strips in the bed of my truck but they were plug and play for their intended use.


Thank you! Yes, 12v and water resistant...


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Whats the verdict on sound quality after driving around with it for the summer? Other than wanting a new Jeep i mean

I just went back to 2 GB10's in my build and after seeing the latest Simplicity in Sound Q5 build, and remembering this build, i think i am going to go this same route with mine.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/simplic...not568rTYrNuTaQxX9upPDmb99jqf9kn&__tn__=-UC-R


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Whats the verdict on sound quality after driving around with it for the summer? Other than wanting a new Jeep i mean
> 
> I just went back to 2 GB10's in my build and after seeing the latest Simplicity in Sound Q5 build, and remembering this build, i think i am going to go this same route with mine.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pg/simplic...not568rTYrNuTaQxX9upPDmb99jqf9kn&__tn__=-UC-R


The verdict is I love them! Honestly, I haven't even done any EQ yet and I am in no hurry to, because they sound really good already. T/a is set and crossed at 80hz, bass is on the dash and it blends really well with the GS690s.

Wanting a new Jeep is an ongoing illness I have been dealing with since I got my drivers license... The good thing is that all of the audio could be easily transferred! 

I wish SIS would post their build logs on here... I don't have facebook. :blush:

Side note: these subs can not be mounted with drywall screws, they require M5 titanium allen head bolts that have been anointed with holy water by the Pope himself!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> The verdict is I love them! Honestly, I haven't even done any EQ yet and I am in no hurry to, because they sound really good already. T/a is set and crossed at 80hz, bass is on the dash and it blends really well with the GS690s.
> 
> Wanting a new Jeep is an ongoing illness I have been dealing with since I got my drivers license... The good thing is that all of the audio could be easily transferred!
> 
> ...


Noted...ordering custom made titanium bolts now.

I don't think Bing would mind if i posted a couple pics here.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Noted...ordering custom made titanium bolts now.
> 
> I don't think Bing would mind if i posted a couple pics here.


Oh, that's beautiful, thanks! They do such great work... 

Are you going to build a new box for your GB10s? Btw, did you get a tweeter mount made for the GB10s, yet?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Oh, that's beautiful, thanks! They do such great work...
> 
> Are you going to build a new box for your GB10s? Btw, did you get a tweeter mount made for the GB10s, yet?


Yes i am building it today. I sold my RM-12 and went back to 2 GB10's.

Tweeter pods are in progress using pvc caps...they look ok and sound great.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> Yes i am building it today. I sold my RM-12 and went back to 2 GB10's.
> 
> Tweeter pods are in progress using pvc caps...they look ok and sound great.


Cool! Send them to me, I'll make 'em look good.


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## ckirocz28 (Nov 29, 2017)

miniSQ said:


> I sold my RM-12 and went back to 2 GB10's.


Well, don't leave us hanging, why?


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