# E28 M5 Install



## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Hey guys, 
This is my first post on diymobile so please be nice.. I just finished rebuilding an E28 M5, and one of the last things not crossed off my to do list is the stereo. I have quite a bit of experience in the home audio world, however, my car audio experience is pretty much limited to removing and installing a few head units and amps/subs in high school. My goals for the M5's system are as follows:
-Sound quality, sound stage, and imaging. (Coming from 2-channel home audio this is of great importance to me)
-I would like to keep the install as clean and factory looking as possible. 
-Reasonable price maybe $2-$2.5k total component cost

As of right now I'm leaning towards a 4 channel setup (No sub). The factory speaker positions/sizes are as follows:
A 3x5" speaker in each kick panel (actually in the kick panel, not the door)
A 1" tweeter next to each side mirror, 
A 5.25" and a 1" tweeter in each of the speaker housings on the parcel tray

I'm considering the following set up:
-Alpine 9887 HU with the imprint add on
-Focal 100KRS in the front kick panels/doors (no one seems to make a high end 3"x5" component)
-Alpine SPX13 Pro on the rear parcel tray
-JL HD600/4

Questions:
What do you guys think about these components/the system? 

Should I go active or passive?

Can I go passive with just a 9887 and imprint, or do I need an additional external crossover? 

I chose the SPX13 Pro bc the specs claim that it will reach pretty far down for a 5.25" component mid (40Hz) and I won't be running a sub. Does anyone have a frequency response charts for the SPX 13Pro woofer? How much is it distorting/rolling of @40Hz? Thoughts? Options? 

When running an active crossover setup, how difficult is it to mix and match drivers? For instance, can I run a good set of Scan Speak mids/highs from the home audio world? 

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

No one?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

craigrhyne said:


> Hey guys,
> This is my first post on diymobile so please be nice.. I just finished rebuilding an E28 M5, and one of the last things not crossed off my to do list is the stereo. I have quite a bit of experience in the home audio world, however, my car audio experience is pretty much limited to removing and installing a few head units and amps/subs in high school. My goals for the M5's system are as follows:
> -Sound quality, sound stage, and imaging. (Coming from 2-channel home audio this is of great importance to me)
> -I would like to keep the install as clean and factory looking as possible.
> ...


My answers are in bold.


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## SQ_Blaze (Sep 29, 2008)

Everything seems like good choices to me equipment wise, meaning the HU/DSP and amp. Something to consider though, do some research on the Bimmer forums and see what people are doing for that particular year and model 5 series BMW for the front stage. There might be cheap, easy ways of up-sizing the kicks to 5.25" or maybe even 6.5" mids down there.

The reason I say that is because if you're typing that correctly, you're saying the kick panel has a 3"x5" oval speaker in it. I'm kind of thinking you mean a 3.5" (three and a half inch) speaker. I very well could be wrong though. But even still, a 3x5" driver will suck no matter what brand you go with, and a 3.5" will in no way be able to support and anchor the front stage on its own as a midbass driver. Midrange driver, yes, but not a midbass driver.

Are there no empty spots for drivers in the front doors other than the tweeters by the mirrors?

Please... Forget about getting 2-way coaxial or component speakers for rear fill. 

Since you come from 2-ch home audio, I would strongly recommend going with just an active front stage and a pair of Tang Band 5.25" subs in the rear parcel tray. They'll most likely just drop in to the stock openings. You'll be able to cross them somewhat high at 300Hz or so so you can cross the little 3.5" drivers up front that high as well to not over work them, IF you decide to try running 3.5" drivers. Although, I can't help but think this arrangement will sound odd and very hard to dial in as all of your midbass will be coming from several feet behind you. 

Should you decide to up-size and go with 5.25-6.5" drivers up front (highly recommended), then of course you can go with much lower crossover points for both the front stage and subs, somewhere in the 60-100Hz neighborhood. This will get your midbass anchored back up front where it belongs.

Of course, all of this is under the assumption of you running an active front stage. It's the only sure-fire way of getting a proper front stage easily and somewhat cheaply. You already have all the right equipment to do it, so why not do it?!

This also means that you will be forced to buy yet another amp to power those little TB subs in the rear parcel tray. You could get something like the little JL A1200 monoblock to power them at 2 ohms which would give you in access of 200+ watts, more than enough clean power.

I think this kind of system would provide you with very good results and keep you well within your budget if not save you a few bucks.


BTW, the system I just described to you is quite similar in design to what I'm building up for my own vehicle. Just some food for thought.


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Austin- Your correct, I meant to type active crossover when I was asking about the imprint. Thanks for the good info.



SQ_Blaze said:


> Everything seems like good choices to me equipment wise, meaning the HU/DSP and amp. Something to consider though, do some research on the Bimmer forums and see what people are doing for that particular year and model 5 series BMW for the front stage. There might be cheap, easy ways of up-sizing the kicks to 5.25" or maybe even 6.5" mids down there.


I'm pretty active in most of the BMW forums and I haven't really seen a lot of info regarding high end audio for the E28. It seems that my delima is not a common one because the E28 M5 is an extremely rare car and most owners don't seem to have any interest in making major modifications to the stereo system. The E28 M5 does share a lot of it's stereo components with some of the other E28's, but most non M5 owners don't really seem interested in maintaining the factory appearance. 



SQ_Blaze said:


> The reason I say that is because if you're typing that correctly, you're saying the kick panel has a 3"x5" oval speaker in it. I'm kind of thinking you mean a 3.5" (three and a half inch) speaker. I very well could be wrong though. But even still, a 3x5" driver will suck no matter what brand you go with, and a 3.5" will in no way be able to support and anchor the front stage on its own as a midbass driver. Midrange driver, yes, but not a midbass driver.
> 
> Are there no empty spots for drivers in the front doors other than the tweeters by the mirrors?


The speakers are def ovals.. I'm an engineer, I like numbers  There are no holes for the speakers in the doors, and the point in the kick panel @which the speakers are mounted is already very tight. I don't think that there is really physically room to add a larger speaker without doing a lot of cutting. 



SQ_Blaze said:


> Please... Forget about getting 2-way coaxial or component speakers for rear fill.
> 
> Since you come from 2-ch home audio, I would strongly recommend going with just an active front stage and a pair of Tang Band 5.25" subs in the rear parcel tray. They'll most likely just drop in to the stock openings. You'll be able to cross them somewhat high at 300Hz or so so you can cross the little 3.5" drivers up front that high as well to not over work them, IF you decide to try running 3.5" drivers. Although, I can't help but think this arrangement will sound odd and very hard to dial in as all of your midbass will be coming from several feet behind you.


The car is a four seater. Would an arrangement like this provide adequate sound in the back seat? I take it that AUSTIN's assertion is correct and an active crossover could be accomplished without an external adjustable crossover?



SQ_Blaze said:


> Should you decide to up-size and go with 5.25-6.5" drivers up front (highly recommended), then of course you can go with much lower crossover points for both the front stage and subs, somewhere in the 60-100Hz neighborhood. This will get your midbass anchored back up front where it belongs.
> 
> Of course, all of this is under the assumption of you running an active front stage. It's the only sure-fire way of getting a proper front stage easily and somewhat cheaply. You already have all the right equipment to do it, so why not do it?!
> 
> ...


Thank you for all of the advice guys, keep all of the good info coming!

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

I have 7" Peerless in kicks, 1" tweeters in stock locations and Mach5 15" IB via rear armrest and a hole I cut in the rear firewall... all active via 9887.
It's 4x6 btw...


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Mless5 said:


> I have 7" Peerless in kicks, 1" tweeters in stock locations and Mach5 15" IB via rear armrest and a hole I cut in the rear firewall... all active via 9887.
> It's 4x6 btw...


Are you saying that you've got all of this installed in an E28? What year is it? I'm holding my stock speaker in my hand right now and it is certainly not a 4"X6".....



The question I was getting at in one of my previous posts was this: If an active crossover and a system such as imprint make it easy to mix and match drivers, why are people still purchasing matched component sets and paying for the passive crossover? Wouldn't it be more logical to buy super high quality drivers intended for home audio from a place like madisound and let the active crossover/imprint do the work? With what Alpine charges for a set of F1 speakers (they look like Scan Speak Revs to me) one could easily pick up a set of uber high end Accuton drivers and still save money..

Thanks,
Craig


EDIT: I guess the dimensions depend on how the speaker is measured. The bolt hole pattern is 3"X5". If you measure all of the excess metal included in the stamped surround, the measurement is 4"X6". If you measure just the speaker enclosed in the stamped surround, the measurement is a 4" circular cone. I'll try to snap a couple pics of the speaker w/my phone here in a sec.


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## danno14 (Sep 1, 2009)

The hell with the system.... what a CAR!

Def one of the most balanced Bimmers I have had the pleasure of driving. Hoped to own one, but the age and diminishing number of quality cars has caused me to let go of that daydream :}

Planning for the system to go into my 92 e31 6sp... the trunk is just* full *of junk 
Have fun... lurking.
D


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## galacticmonkey (Apr 28, 2010)

If I youre looking for any type of real full sound youre going to need a sub. Even if its a little 8" thats hidden off glassed hidden in the corner of your trunk, you need something to cover those frequencies.


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

danno14 said:


> The hell with the system.... what a CAR!
> 
> Def one of the most balanced Bimmers I have had the pleasure of driving. Hoped to own one, but the age and diminishing number of quality cars has caused me to let go of that daydream :}
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliment! I just finished building the car from the ground up and it's a ton of fun! ...There aren't many machines out there that make the kind of noises this one does


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

galacticmonkey said:


> If I youre looking for any type of real full sound youre going to need a sub. Even if its a little 8" thats hidden off glassed hidden in the corner of your trunk, you need something to cover those frequencies.


I guess this is just because you can't completely control the enclosure in which the speakers are housed? I run my 2 channel tower speakers with out a sub and they sound fantastic


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

I guess my main hang up with this whole "active crossover" thing is this: If your using the head unit to set the crossover points, how are you able to control 8 drivers? The way I understand it using an active crossover means having a separate channel post crossover for each driver (allowing you to make timing and crossover changes between specific drivers). So if your head unit only has RF, LF, RR, LR, pre outs, and you use two for the front highs, and two for the front lows, how do you control the rear speakers? Can Imprint actually set crossover points/slopes/time alignment between a woofer and it's corresponding tweeter? If yes, can a 9887/Imprint combo do this for just four drivers or all 8?

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## bradwood (Feb 14, 2009)

Standard speaker mounts are defintiely for 4x6". Front and rear in my 528i.



Mless5 said:


> I have 7" Peerless in kicks, 1" tweeters in stock locations and Mach5 15" IB via rear armrest and a hole I cut in the rear firewall... all active via 9887.


Do you have a build thread or pictures of the final install? I went through some of your threads but didnt see a summary-type thread.

I currently have Blaupunkt 6.5" splits in custom kick panels running semi-active. I won't embarass myself by posting pics as they're ugly to look as i wasn't patient with the construction, even though they took bloody ages!

Those splits have a large basket and dont fit at all into the original speaker location therefore the mounts stick waaaay out. I'm now looking at going back to a 5.25 inch midwoofer to see how much it might be recessed into the stock location so will be 'mapping' the depth and size of the hole to see what suits. I'm hoping the Scanspeak Discovery 15W/4434G would fit.

Re the bass - i have a Peerless XXLS 10" that was originally in a sealed box but the solid/selaed trunk of the bimmer was really blocking it, so have now gone ported for extra volume.

I agree with galacticmonkey, unless there are some serious bass-producing speakers up front (which is hard unless you're prepared to hack the stock location or door mount, but i dont know the ins and outs of that) a sub really fills out the system.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Yep, '87 535. 
If you don't want to cut a hole, I used to have a 10" Image Dynamics under rear seat...
IMO, components in the rear is a waste of $, but I see where you are coming from. It would be the easiest thing to do with those OEM boxes on the back shelf. You don't need to run them active by the way.


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Does anyone have any input on my question about setting up an active front, or front and rear stage?

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

bradwood said:


> Standard speaker mounts are defintiely for 4x6". Front and rear in my 528i.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not at the moment, but I will have something posted soon. This is my previous set up with Morel tweeters and Focal mids...


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## SQ_Blaze (Sep 29, 2008)

craigrhyne said:


>


That's pretty neat! I've never seen a bandpass crossover built around a driver before! It actually looks like a well built, decent quality little driver. 

I wouldn't mind having those drivers to tell you the truth! They would make for a cool little home project. They kind of remind me of the old Polk audio Reference series home speakers.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Mless5 said:


> Not at the moment, but I will have something posted soon. This is my previous set up with Morel tweeters and Focal mids...


Hey, those look as if I have seen them before


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## bradwood (Feb 14, 2009)

craigrhyne said:


> Does anyone have any input on my question about setting up an active front, or front and rear stage?
> 
> Thanks,
> Craig Rhyne


My approach would be active for fronts, passive for rear but faded so as not to be obvious and overpowering the front soundstage.

Active does mean you can mix drivers and not be 'limited' by passive crossovers designed for specific mid/tweeter combinations. That being said, i havent experience mixing 4 ohm and 8 ohm drivers in terms of volume matching, if that's what you are referring to.

Less power would be produced by the amps at 8 ohms, but from what i know the 8 ohm speaker sensitivity is generally higher so i think it averages out.

It might be a concern to put a home speaker that is designed for indoor conditions into a moist/hot vehicle environment. But there are a number of folks here in Aus that do it.

Sorry, dont have experience with Alpine products to comment. However i wouldn't expect much 40Hz from a 5.25" driver unless its got serious excursion.

Honestly i dont think you'll get much bass from those small component sizes. Depends on your appetite from bass.

What's your reason for not wanting a sub, if you dont mind me asking?


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

bradwood said:


> My approach would be active for fronts, passive for rear but faded so as not to be obvious and overpowering the front soundstage.
> 
> Active does mean you can mix drivers and not be 'limited' by passive crossovers designed for specific mid/tweeter combinations. That being said, i havent experience mixing 4 ohm and 8 ohm drivers in terms of volume matching, if that's what you are referring to.
> 
> ...


First of all, I appreciate the well thought out response to my question.. It seemed like it was going to go ignored there for a while  

So how do I go about running the front active and the rears passive if I only have four full range pre-outs coming from the back of the HU? The way I understand it, the right and left front highs will require the right and left front pre-outs, and the right and left front woofers will require the right and left rear pre-outs. With the head unit acting as the crossover, where will I get a signal to run a separate amp for the rear speakers? 

Concerning my appetite for bass, I listen to rock, indie rock, classic rock, classical, and the occasional opera. I like a cello to sound deep and full, but I detest the overpowering slam/kick that I've experienced from most auto systems with subs. I also would like to keep the number of holes drilled, and new large wires run to a minimum ...and I really don't want to start installing cumbersome boxes and additional amps all over the place. I drive this car hard and adding an additional 50lbs of subwoofer and supporting components isn't all that appealing to me. 

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Alright, please don't ignore my questions in the above post, but I've done a bit more research, made a couple of decisions (unless someone can come up with evidence to dissuade me), and consequently have a couple more questions for you guys to ponder: 

First, now that I'm beginning to get my head wrapped around the basics of setting up an active front stage in a car, I've decided that I would like to give it a shot. Concerning driver selection for an active front stage: When you purchase a set of matched component speakers (Focal 100KRS in this case) you pay not only for the matched woofer and tweeter, but for the passive crossover as well. Obviously, when using an active crossover, the passive crossover is rendered useless and tossed aside. How would the drivers included in a component package such as the Focal 100krs compare to a set of quality home audio drivers such as these (If nothing else, from a general quality standpoint):

*Tweeters:*
ScanSpeak Illuminators:
Scanspeak Illuminator R3004/6020-10, 1" Soft Ring Dome Tweeter from Madisound
Freq response chart and specs available here: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/r3004_602010.pdf

or maybe even a ScanSpeak AirCirc:
ScanSpeak D3004/6600-00 Textile Dome, AirCirc from Madisound
Freq response chart and specs available here: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/scanspeak/D3004_660000.pdf 

*Woofers:*
Morel EW428:
Morel EW428, 4" Elite Woofer, 2" VC from Madisound
Freq response chart and specs available here: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/EW428.pdf

I would love to do a ScanSpeak Revelator or SEAS woofer, but they just don't make them in the right diameter or depth. If I ran a larger tweeter, it would prob be mounted in a PVC cap pod as is outlined in one of the diyma tutorials. The Focal tweeter would likely be mounted in the factory position due to it's smaller size. 

The specs and freq response graph for the Focal 100KRS woofer is posted on the Focal website here: Focal America

Is a woofer as opposed to a midrange the right choice to cross with a large tweeter such as the ones above? Judging by the frequency response graphs I would expect that the above woofers and tweeters could easily be crossed... but alas, I'm no expert... that's why I need you guys 

BTW: As far as I can tell, the factory kick panel mounting position is completely sealed! Based on this observation, factors such as moisture and dirt damaging the "home audio" drivers can be eliminated. 

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## bradwood (Feb 14, 2009)

craigrhyne said:


> First of all, I appreciate the well thought out response to my question.. It seemed like it was going to go ignored there for a while
> 
> So how do I go about running the front active and the rears passive if I only have four full range pre-outs coming from the back of the HU? The way I understand it, the right and left front highs will require the right and left front pre-outs, and the right and left front woofers will require the right and left rear pre-outs. With the head unit acting as the crossover, where will I get a signal to run a separate amp for the rear speakers?


You're welcome, I’ve had good advice before so happy to pass it on. Hope it helps.

From the specs of the 9887 it has 3 pre-outs: front/high, rear/mid, and sub. It seems a lot like my Eclipse 5030. What I’m not sure about is the crossover capabilities.

On the Eclipse, the high and mids have independent high pass crossover settings only, but the mid needs to be bandpassed otherwise it would be playing the tweeter frequencies. So my mid has its passive crossover connected, with 12dB/octave at 2.5Khz low-pass filter. The other alternative would be to use a low-pass filter on the amplifier, but unfortunately my C4b amp only has up to 1.1KHz so not high enough.

The Alpine may be different, if the crossover for the midrange channel has bandpass capabilities then you're golden. If not, then you need a passive crossover either as a separate component or on the amplifier to filter out the higher frequencies.

An option, if you have another set of amplified channels (ie another amp), is run an RCA from the midrange amplifier channels to the rear speaker amplifier channel. Most amps have RCA output's to daisy-chain amps. The rear speakers would get whatever filtered frequencies were on the midrange channel (i.e. if you had a 100Hz high pass filter set at the head unit). That is the better option.

Alternatively run an RCA from the subwoofer channel to the rear speaker amplifier, but the 9887 may only have a low-pass filter on the sub output. Not sure but likely. Either way, running rear speakers is the same connectivity concept as having a subwoofer, but with a high-pass crossover rather than a low-pas crossover.

So, all up you would need either 3 x 2-channel amps, a 4-channel and a 2-channel, or a 6-channel amp with low-pass crossover filtering up to about 2.5Khz. Not that common, but they are available.

Phew! Next...



craigrhyne said:


> Concerning my appetite for bass, I listen to rock, indie rock, classic rock, classical, and the occasional opera. I like a cello to sound deep and full, but I detest the overpowering slam/kick that I've experienced from most auto systems with subs. I also would like to keep the number of holes drilled, and new large wires run to a minimum ...and I really don't want to start installing cumbersome boxes and additional amps all over the place. I drive this car hard and adding an additional 50lbs of subwoofer and supporting components isn't all that appealing to me.


I agree, but IMO most have their subs set too loud. I have an SQ sub to fill out the bottom end, not be the defining aspect.

I've run 2 gauge from engine bay to trunk without making any holes. 2 amps under the back seat from tweeter and mids. Monoblock on the back of the subwoofer box in the boot. Not a large box either.

I also don’t want to mess with the sheetmetal, it can be done without. But it does weigh some.

Re your next post, I cant talk about any of that hardware as I don’t have experience with it. Haven’t played with home audio drivers either, sorry.

In a 2-way system, you would be talking about a woofer or mid-woofer rather than a midrange. Midrange's are normally reserved for a 3-way system with a dedicated bass or mid-bass driver.

Yes, the kick location doesn't vent to the outside, but my opinion is that cars are a much more challenging environment than the home - mostly from airborne moisture and greater temperature variations. A new car is not so bad, but a 20+ year old car like the E28 is a different kettle of fish. Just my view anyway 

I would still say that a 5" or 4" driver is going to give minimal bass reproduction. If you've heard similar systems and are happy then cool.

I'm hoping that the magnet of the new Scanspeak Discovery 5.25" might fit into the stock hole, even if it needs an inch thick spacer. I expect that to handle reasonable kick-bass duties and all the other good midrange stuff and let the sub do the heavy lifting.


Hopefully someone else more experienced will be prepared to answer your questions on the drivers you mentioned.


Good luck with the search, I’ll keep an eye on this thread. Post up pics as you proceed, very few seem to try to put a decent system in an E28. They are quite challenging to install but it can be done.


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

bradwood- Again, thanks for the very informative posts. 2 things that might make my situation a little different than that of most E28 owners: 

1. The battery is in the trunk on the E28 M5 for weight purposes, so wiring might be a little different.

2. I just finished rebuilding the car from the ground up so every single piece of rubber in the car has been replaced (from suspension bushings to door seals)

If anyone has any further input on going active with the 9887, or information/opinions on the driver comparison I made above, feel free to post 

Thanks,
Craig Rhyne


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## bradwood (Feb 14, 2009)

Forgot about the battery for the M5 - the amplifier cable runs will be a lot shorter then.

Ahh, nice. Are you on mye28 then? Got build pictures?


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

bradwood said:


> Forgot about the battery for the M5 - the amplifier cable runs will be a lot shorter then.
> 
> Ahh, nice. Are you on mye28 then? Got build pictures?


I am on my E28 (Lol I'm the one that put up the massive post about my problems with Steve H.) I have not, however, posted any pics of the build.

...I'm really surprised that no one else really seems to have any technical input to this thread.


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## craigrhyne (Apr 27, 2010)

Not many people seem to have a lot of technical advice to add to this thread so I might just be beating a dead horse, but I've come up with yet another question:

I'm questioning my selection of the Alpine 9887 per this thread:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mobile-audio-sq-forum/57186-search-perfect-head-unit.html

I guess I was under the impression that the 9887 and imprint were fairly top of the line/cutting edge. It seems this is not the case. Does anyone have any other suggestions for an active capable HU and automated sound processing setup within a lets say $800 budget? It has to be 1 Din, and have Ipod support that bypasses the Ipod's DACs. If possible, I would also much prefer something with a much more refined look than the 9887. The Macintosh HU's are very appealing, but I really like the idea of an automated/mic-controlled TA and frequency response correction system. 

Thanks Again,
Craig Rhyne


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## bradwood (Feb 14, 2009)

I think you might be better to create new posts for the specfic questions in mind and title them accordingly.

People might be skipping this thread as they think it will be a build thread on an E28, rather than technical questions about speakers and head unit recommendations.


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## Goshi (Feb 8, 2011)

Hi Craig (and others)!

How’s your M5 audio project coming along? There’s not much to find on BMW E28 custom installs…. I am busy planning my own custom install in my '86 M535i and I have been searching the net for any tips building custom audio for an E28. Couldn’t find much if any…..

First of all the (active) front stage; the 4x6 location isn’t really an option (as been mentioned) , it will in no way be able to support and anchor the front stage on its own as a midbass driver. I am aiming for a custom kickpanels and I can’t find any (E28) posts about this. Is there anybody with experience on building E28 custom kickpanels (big daddy?)? I would like to create room for 5.25’’ drivers. What about your tweeter selection? Can you tell me what your final set-up looks like?

Then the rear fill: The parcel tray. I would like to go active as well. Not much room there either. The maximum fit would be 5.25’’, with a depth problem. I don’t mind customizing it some more. Anybody have tips for the rear fill? Maybe on the Scanspeak Discovery 15W/4434G? Don’t I need high as well in the back?

For subs I would like to go for 2x CDT QES 1020. It doesn’t need to much volume so saving some space in the trunk. Still need ‘the best solution’ for my E28. I want to install them against the firewall, behind the backseat. Maybe a gate through the backseat armrest, don’t know yet. Anybody with a custom E28 Sub install who can comment?

What about this active crossover question Craig posted? Anybody have an answer on that? Craig, did you go active or passive in the end?

So many questions….

Thanks,
/|\artiN


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## clubman (Nov 8, 2010)

Hi Craig,

Fellow E28 M5 owner here, and I'm spending a few months in San Angelo! We should meet up some weekend, I'm planning a system revamp in my M5 as well, and I'd be thrilled to check out your progress.


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