# Add powered sub to 2016 Cadillac ATS-V



## bozzchem (Mar 12, 2017)

I posted in this forum since the Crutchfield advisor I spoke with wasn't able to answer my questions to a satisfactory level. I consider Crutchfield a step above a "big box" store. (I've bought a lot of high end home audio gear from them.)

When I bounced my ideas off the Crutchfield advisor and he said it should "potentially" work, I was done with that conversation. I'm not looking for a potential solution. I'm looking to hear from someone who knows what the hell they're talking about. If I'm wrong for posting my question here, please move my post to an appropriate forum.

I have a 2016 Cadillac ATS-V with a 12 speaker Bose (Blows) system.

I'd like to add a powered sub to see if I can at least make the Blows system passable as car audio.

Based upon stellar reviews, I purchased a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 powered sub. I'm looking for a bit more thump than the pitiful Blows system delivers. When the volume goes up in my car, the bass goes down. 

I really don't see how Blows has cornered this market considering the poor performance of their systems. Sure, a 12 speaker system sounds impressive on paper, until you listen to it. Someone has pictures of someone doing something they shouldn't have done to keep Blows in their current market share of OEM car audio. Their sound is second rate at best. 

On to my question which regards installation. 

The P300-10 has high and low level inputs. I can tap off the Blows sub wires and feed the P300-10 with the high level signal or convert to low level with an LOC. I'm not a fan of LOCs for an installation like this but am open to suggestions.

I don't know the wattage being fed to the Blows sub by the Blows amp so am not sure how "hot" the output from tapped sub wires will be. I do know the Blows amp internal equalization to the Blows sub is completely FUBAR considering the sound quality from the Blows sub (if you can call it a sub).

I expect to receive the service manual for my car in the next few days so will have the wiring schematics.

In my mind, I would think grabbing the signal prior to the Blows amp would make more sense. The signal hasn't been processed by Blows and should be of lower wattage thereby "safer" as a high level input the the P300-10.

I apologize for the length of this post but feel it could be helpful to others who are as unfortunate as I to deal with Blows as their current OEM audio system.

Blows has put their tentacles into MANY OEM systems.

How do we properly add a powered sub to a crap system?

I CAN'T be the first person to ask this question and I apologize if my search didn't provide the response I was looking for.

This is a systemic problem with Blows systems. We need to develop a communal step by step process to ensure those unfortunate enough to have a Blows system can enhance their low end for minimal cost and effort.

This affects almost every auto manufacturing brand sold. If we don't want this lackluster crap, we need to make it clear!!!

United we Stand.

Thanks.


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

I don't know about your particular vehicle, but many OEM's with external amps feed them with a balanced line output from the radio to cancel out any interference that may be picked up. A standard unbalanced RCA system has ground, and around 2-4v at the tip. Instead of having ground, balanced system has negative 4v and positive 4v, for a total of 8v. 

So, if your car runs a balanced system, the signal coming from the headunit may be too 'hot' for the amplifier to handle if your try to hook it up to the RCA input. Conversely, the same signal may not be hot enough to try to drive an amp's speaker-level input. If your car uses a balanced system, you might need a BALUN to convert the signal to an unbalanced RCA line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo5HhfIUSP0


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## Swaglife81 (Oct 15, 2016)

I don't know if this helps you or not but the wiring diagrams are readily available online. Pin 4 is the subwoofer low level audio wire into the amp. It is a WH wire white most likely. I think if your that displeased with the overall quality of the 20 speakers than a DSP integrated setup is in your future. Probably will make you happier than just a add on powered subwoofer


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## bozzchem (Mar 12, 2017)

Swaglife81 said:


> I don't know if this helps you or not but the wiring diagrams are readily available online. Pin 4 is the subwoofer low level audio wire into the amp. It is a WH wire white most likely. I think if your that displeased with the overall quality of the 20 speakers than a DSP integrated setup is in your future. Probably will make you happier than just a add on powered subwoofer


Could you point me to a link that has the pin out diagrams for a 2016 Cadillac ATS-V?

It's 12 speakers, not 20.

I understand that I could gut the system and spend $6K to have a fantastic system. I've already spent the time to determine what it would take to make my Caddy sound as good or better than my Acura. I think you missed the point of my post. I've been there and done that. The system in my 2003 Acura TL-S is competition level.

I ripped the Bose system out of my Acura and have a complete JBL system that few can compete with. That was 10 years ago. I don't want to go down that road again. I just want better bass in my Caddy.

I'm not looking for that route with the Caddy. I just want better bass response with a minimal intrusion to the car.


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## Druskee (Oct 14, 2021)

Hey, did you ever get anywhere with this ATS-V audio setup? Looks like we're on the same page. Have you found a way to get a clean full-range line-level signal that is volume controlled? Or is avoiding the Bose DSP pretty much impossible without gutting it and doing something like a headunit-less setup?


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