# 09 Scion XB



## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

I told myself when I bought this car that I would just put a navigation unit in and leave it at that but it didn't take long before I got the Car Audio itch back. It is going to be a more simple install than I have done in the past put it should get me by. In addition, this car just seem like it was built with a car audio nut in mind. It is so much easier to work on than my old Jetta. I have just started the project, so I will update as I get things going. 

We will start with the big 3 and sound deadening. 


This is how I prep my power wire under the hood. Double Protection. My old SQ car had 3, but now that I have gone with 1/0 awg wire, that just is not practical





























Engine Ground











I always wanted this thing back when I was competing but it was not not the budget. I picked it up from another forum member for a good price.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

I didn't take much picturing during the Head-Unit install but I was pretty basic. I did install the PAC interface so the steering wheel will control the deck. 


Kenwood DNX9140









I found this thing online so I could easily add inputs to the AUX on the deck and plug my USB in for music or video. I also added another input jack in the front of the car.











Made my own splash screen.









It will even read or display my text messages.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Got all my wire from Knukonceptz. I made a little test bench in my house.

1/0 power (Way bigger than I really need)
12 awg speaker.











I decided to try the Image Dynamics XS65's. I ran focal Utopias in my old car so they have a lot to live up to.




















IDQ 12 D2 V3 for the sub. I am waiting for Image Dynamics to get back to me on a re-cone. This one came a small tear in the surround. 




















Powering it all will be a JL HD900/5. I have always used class AB in the past, so this will be a new experience for me. I rand PPI and McIntosh in my old car. 


My Distribution block that I question the engineering on but it has a volt and ammeter on board which I though was cool.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Second Skin Audio Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro. Doors are in process with the black Damplifier Pro and Pics will follow.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Keep it goin', buddy. I have an xB too, but a 2006


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## Skierman (Mar 3, 2008)

You didn't show the wiring for the coffee maker?


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Skierman said:


> You didn't show the wiring for the coffee maker?


I haven't put down the wiring yet... and I prefer to call my car "the toaster"


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## Greg S (Oct 21, 2009)

Question on the engine compartment wiring upgrade? How did you get teh wire from the alternator to the battery? I did mine recently and it was a PITA to get around the back of the engine block.

The 2nd gen xBs aren't toasters, more like melted marshmallows:laugh:, especially when white like mine.


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## lucipha (Aug 5, 2009)

Keep up the good work, you're off to a great start.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Greg S said:


> Question on the engine compartment wiring upgrade? How did you get teh wire from the alternator to the battery? I did mine recently and it was a PITA to get around the back of the engine block.
> 
> The 2nd gen xBs aren't toasters, more like melted marshmallows:laugh:, especially when white like mine.



Rather than replacing the OEM alternator positive wire, I ran a new wire.










I used couplers to extend the OEM wire to reach the terminal.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

The thing you used to plug in your USB and A/V cables.... where did you find that?
I could definately use one of those in my install.


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## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

where can you buy the volt meter and fuse box on top of the battery? It looks like you have a yellow top like I do.


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## tonym (Jun 21, 2009)

nice work...


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## Greg S (Oct 21, 2009)

ss1088 said:


> Rather than replacing the OEM alternator positive wire, I ran a new wire.
> 
> 
> I used couplers to extend the OEM wire to reach the terminal.


I see, a lot easier than what I did. I took everything apart down to the harnesses and pulled most of the stock line out except the portion runing behind the block. That got chopped as far back as I could on each end. The new line was then run next to it and wired tied tightly at each end to keep it in place. The rest was taped into the stock looms.

Be interesting to see how everything comes out. I'll be starting my build soon. Just waiting on the BM MKIII to arrive and then I can start.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Well I am 90% done deadening the front doors. And I have started to work on the door baffles for the front. I am not sure how long they will be there until I decide to build kicks. That all depends on how happy I am with the sound. 
Driver's side door with new damplifier pro. I have also done the plastic on the inside of the door panel but I have not taken a pic of that yet.









Passenger Side Door.








Tracing the stock speaker to make new MDF baffle.












































Using to fiberglass resin to waterproof the baffle.


















Going in the doors soon.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Got these courtesy of second skin awhile back. They will be going in the doors soon as well.


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## tinctorus (Oct 5, 2009)

ss1088 said:


> I told myself when I bought this car that I would just put a navigation unit in and leave it at that but it didn't take long before I got the Car Audio itch back. It is going to be a more simple install than I have done in the past put it should get me by. In addition, this car just seem like it was built with a car audio nut in mind. It is so much easier to work on than my old Jetta. I have just started the project, so I will update as I get things going.
> 
> We will start with the big 3 and sound deadening.
> 
> ...


I always wanted one of those as well....

They just seem to make everything SOOOO much simpler under the hood and I like that it is all fused for you


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

They are kind of a pain in the ass if you get limited space around the battery.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

In case you didn't see it...



bikinpunk said:


> The thing you used to plug in your USB and A/V cables.... where did you find that?
> I could definately use one of those in my install.




And, I too would like to know where you purchased the voltmeter kit/whatever you call it. Looks sweet.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> In case you didn't see it...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



MP3CAR USB GAMEPLATE WITH 110 VOLT A/C PLUG AND RCA'S!



SHD841 - Stinger HPM MIDI Fused Distribution Block W/ Digital Display


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Thanks, man. 


Edit: The voltage display... I meant the one on the battery. Looks like a big combo block thing.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Thanks, man.
> 
> 
> Edit: The voltage display... I meant the one on the battery. Looks like a big combo block thing.


I got it from another member on this forum. I am not sure if they still make it but it is made by Tsunami and the part number is PP880BTY.


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## Greg S (Oct 21, 2009)

Actually it's a Tsunami PT2001. The PP880BTY model number is Tsunami's model number for the Optima yellow top battery.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Yea, and finding one is VERY hard. I looked all over the net last night and only found one place selling it, and they will only sell one with the battery.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Yea, and finding one is VERY hard. I looked all over the net last night and only found one place selling it, and they will only sell one with the battery.


Don't try to buy it from them either. They sent me only the battery and said the top was not in stock. The battery was completely dead. After talking to Optima, I found out that the battery was manufactured like 5 years ago. It was a nightmare trying to return they thing, but I finally got it done after about 10 e-mails and threats to dispute the charge with my credit card company.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

The baffles are pretty much complete now. I should have them mounted tomorrow. I used #8-32 Hurricane nuts from parts express with 1" machine screws.


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Yea, and finding one is VERY hard. I looked all over the net last night and only found one place selling it, and they will only sell one with the battery.


they sell it... $109.95 
*BATTERY POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM FOR PP880BTY BY TSUNAMI PT2001 :: BATTERY DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS :: BATTERIES & MOUNTS :: Installation Accessories (TOOLS) :: AUTOTOYS


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

AdamTaylor said:


> they sell it... $109.95
> *BATTERY POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM FOR PP880BTY BY TSUNAMI PT2001*::*BATTERY DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS*::*BATTERIES & MOUNTS*::*Installation Accessories (TOOLS)*::*AUTOTOYS


Yea, thats the company you should stay away from IMO.


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## Thrill_House (Nov 20, 2008)

ss1088 said:


> Yea, thats the company you should stay away from IMO.


Which compamy, tsunami or autotoys?


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Thrill_House said:


> Which compamy, tsunami or autotoys?


Autotoys


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

AdamTaylor said:


> they sell it... $109.95
> *BATTERY POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM FOR PP880BTY BY TSUNAMI PT2001*::*BATTERY DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS*::*BATTERIES & MOUNTS*::*Installation Accessories (TOOLS)*::*AUTOTOYS


Same company I was talking about earlier:


> ** Please note: an order for this product will only be filled if purchased with an tsunami battery at the same time.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Just got done test fitting the door baffles. Everything seemd to work out pretty well. I will likely start all the wiring this weekend then I can finish dampening the doors. 
You can see the d-flex pad has been installed


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## jimp (Jul 12, 2009)

simple install my azz, VERY NICE work tho.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Today I ran my power wire through the firewall. It took me awhile to find a good safe place to drill but I finally found an spot. 


Here you can see where to power wire enters to cabin. I had to use my right angle drill to get the hole started with the step drill since the spot was so 




















Here you can see the grommet used.


















This is the engine side










Doors are also coming along.


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Looking good.


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

Your power cable isn't fully TechFlexed!


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

HondAudio said:


> Your power cable isn't fully TechFlexed!


It sure is


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Thanks, man.
> 
> 
> Edit: The voltage display... I meant the one on the battery. Looks like a big combo block thing.


Man, Erin, trust me you don't want one of those. With the limited space under the hood around the battery it's a pain in the ass to work with. If you remember I had one and sold it cause of that very reason. That and after I decided to go with the Kinetic but maily cause of the pain it was to work with. Just my $.02. 

Nice build here by the way! I'm interested for sure!


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Finished Door.










Power wire under the hood is loomed and tech-flexed. I have not made the final termination to the battery top yet. 

















This is how I am planning mounting the equipment for now. I had to make a mount out of MDF for the amp and rout the bottom in certain places with a 5/8 straight bit so things could lay flat. It is going to be a tight fit.


















I have almost completed the ring for the fiberglass enclosure that I will likely start tomorrow. Here you can see that I have mounted the woofer with #8-32 Hurricane nuts from Parts Express. I have added epoxy for added insurance.


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## Greg S (Oct 21, 2009)

Looking good! Wish I could fit my amps under the rear seat. Mine are just too big for that. How much difference did the deadening of the doors make?


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Greg S said:


> Looking good! Wish I could fit my amps under the rear seat. Mine are just too big for that. How much difference did the deadening of the doors make?


It is kind of hard to tell how much difference it makes since I have been doing everything pretty slowly. I can tell you they are a lot more solid and weight about 20 pounds more a piece. I really wont be able to compare how they affect the system since I will have no point of reference.


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## asumafu (Feb 25, 2010)

You're doing a very nice job there. It's ok to go slow since everyone starts to make mistakes when they begin to ruch things. Do it right the first time and you won't have to mess with it again.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Started the fiberglass box today. I pretty much underestimated the amount of material I would need so I am probably going to have to put in a new order with US Composites before it gets completed.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

The box is coming along. It seems to fit well but I have a lot of detail work to do. 





















Test Fit


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

It's coming along pretty well. I think I am going to go with a textured spray to finish it off since the shape may be too difficult to upholster, and I don't have the confidence or patience to sand it well enough for paint.


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Looks great. You gotta love the passion for music.


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## TEGBOY (May 4, 2008)

I really look forward to hearing your thoughts on the ID speakers.

Great install.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

It actually is coming along better than expected. Now I just have to work on the grill and do some touch up work.


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## jimp (Jul 12, 2009)

what are your plans for a sub grill? I've got to figure out something for my little o 8"??


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

jimp said:


> what are your plans for a sub grill? I've got to figure out something for my little o 8"??


I will be making a flush insert. That's why the opening is so much larger that the sub.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Looks like a missed the mark on internal volume. I was aiming for about 1.1 but ended up being about .8 cubic feet. Better luck next time I guess. I may try to build the box again later if I am not happy with the sound, but my main goal for now is to get the system functional.


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## capnxtreme (Feb 5, 2008)

Just add some Polyfill and I bet you will be fine.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

capnxtreme said:


> Just add some Polyfill and I bet you will be fine.


That was the plan. How much I should add is the question.


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## cadaver (Sep 17, 2006)

from everything i've read, adding polyfill will generally only ad 10 percent to the overall volumetric effect, so you'll technically end up with a .88 cu ft box. i'm also guessing that's if you add semi-conservatively. if you add too much it may just amplify the effect further without any real detrement. i've STUFFED mine before without any real negative effects. hope this helps.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Once I get the system running I may just build a perfect box out of MDF to compare the sound. If the difference is significant I will start over.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

I finished up the grill today after work, so now the box is pretty much complete. All I have left to do it securely mount it and run the wires. I wanted to try to keep it as stealth as possible to would be smash and grab thieves.


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## dudegetasony (Jan 2, 2010)

where did u ground ur amp? i grounded on a flat surface of the spare wheel well and my amp keeps cutting out. any help would be great!


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

dudegetasony said:


> where did u ground ur amp? i grounded on a flat surface of the spare wheel well and my amp keeps cutting out. any help would be great!


I have not hooked the amp up yet. It seems like where you have your ground should be fine unless it is loose or something. Maybe your problem lies elsewhere. perhaps your amp is getting too hot or your impedance is too low.


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## dudegetasony (Jan 2, 2010)

amp should't be too hot i bought one fresh out of the store like couple of hours ago just to make sure my old one wasn't broken or faulty. I'm running off the Alpine premium double din upgrade that scion offers. i just seems like one i turn it up around Vol. 40 the bass drops completely from the sub. but the amp light remains on. i'll check on the impedance tomorrow.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

I decided to run the ground today.

Had to clear off some Damplifier Pro and scrape off the paint.










1/0 awg done DIYMA style.


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## ss1088 (Apr 24, 2008)

Everything is pretty much done except all the minor details.
One of the last tings I did was mount the box. I had to make a little order from McMaster Carr to get all the necessary hardware, but this is an idea on how it is mounted. It worked out really well.

Hardware:
Military Grade 3" 3/8 Stainless Steel Hex Bolt
Stainless Lock Washer
Stainless Washer
1" Aluminum Spacer (3/4" diameter that fits 3/8" bolt.)










I made a hole in the panel with a 3/4" hole saw and went through the metal fender with a 3/8" drill bit. The spacer fills in the space between the plastic panel and metal fender. 









With a little luck I was able to line up the hole in the box perfectly. I also used an o-ring from the plumbing department on the washer to prevent leaks. 








This is a shot of what it looks like in the wheel well.









Some Final Pics.

















This is what it looks like under the seat. I will likely clean this up a bit later but it will be functional while I do some tuning.


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## albocruz210 (Feb 25, 2010)

that sub looks natural in that spot


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