# What do you use to cut MDF Rings



## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Well, I'm just wondering what everyone here uses to cut MDF rings. I have always used an electric jig saw but I was thinking of picking up a rotary tool like a Dremel.


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## MIAaron (May 10, 2005)

I use a router for the driver cutout and a jigsaw for the overall baffle.


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## zfactor (Oct 19, 2005)

def a router only way to make em perfect


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

Depending on size/thickness I use a router with a simple custom made jig, my router table or my drill press with a custom made jig and with a little experience  you can even make them like this  :


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## zfactor (Oct 19, 2005)

^^^ nice man... those look great


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Those of you who use router, do you mind posting up what make and model and price if you're comfortable with it. I have been thinking about buying one because everytime I use a Jig saw the mounting hole looks like crap. I was going to try using a dremel with a cirlce jib but that sounds like a small bandage for a large wound.


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## poochieone (Aug 25, 2005)

yeah, router both ways. they make all sorts of neat looking wood things... like sweet looking kick pannels, recessed mounting areas, etc...


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## lbridges (Jan 4, 2006)

I use a Porter Cable (893PK). Got it at Lowes for $199 - currently running around $240. Comes with both plunge and fixed base. Has a means of adjusting bit depth/height through the base when used in a router table (have to buy the adjusting wrench separately). This feature was a must for me, it's the only time practical way to get precise depth of cut.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

zfactor said:


> ^^^ nice man... those look great


Thanks (18 years as a cabinetmaker gives me a bit of an advantage )

For the last 18 years I have strictly used Porter Cable routers (and sanders). The one I use for rings is actually a laminate trimmer (model 7310) with a simple jig I made. I like this one for baffles because it is not much bigger than a dremel tool making it easy to handle but it's a lot more powerful.


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## zfactor (Oct 19, 2005)

porter cable.. ive been thorugh a few now and these seem to hold up the best imo.. ive used makita, hitachi (which i really liked also), dewalt and others ive always went back to my porter cable


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## zfactor (Oct 19, 2005)

Mr Marv said:


> Thanks (18 years as a cabinetmaker gives me a bit of an advantage )
> 
> For the last 18 years I have strictly used Porter Cable routers (and sanders). The one I use for rings is actually a laminate trimmer (model 7310) with a simple jig I made. I like this one for baffles because it is not much bigger than a dremel tool making it easy to handle but it's a lot more powerful.



hehe cheater, yeah i just made our kitchen cabinets fot the first time they came out pretty darn good imo .. ill have to post some pics.. very time consuming i never thought it would take so much time mostly all the finish work..hey you ever do reapir on finishes?? i have a "pickled ash and burl dining table that needs a small spot repaired but im not sure how to start remaking the pickled finish? any suggestions??


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## ludlamtheory (May 31, 2005)

a sandwich
they cut the rings for you
works quite nice


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## shinjohn (Feb 8, 2006)

Over the course of years, I've used a jigsaw, Rotozip, and router to cut speaker baffle holes. If you are doing sub enclosures, and your hand is reasonably steady, a compass + jigsaw is really all you really need. I've done some really nice larger holes (8" or larger drivers) with a jigsaw in 3/4" MDF. If you are doing smaller rings, then some other tool would be better since most jigsaws aren't going to be great at tight (small) radii.

I used to use my Rotozip to cut holes in fiberboard and MDF, and it's not a bad choice of tool, though I hardly use it for this purpose anymore. I pretty much only bring it out when doing drywall work (cuts that like butter). The circle cutting attachment to it (and for little tools like the dremel, etc..) is not super robust, so you have to work slow, cut shallow depths (multiple passes) and use a really steady hand. If you are cutting like 1/4" fiberboard, I think the Rotozip is fine, but thicker material is tough.

I think a router is the best choice of tool. Come to think of it, a larger router is overkill if you just want to cut holes here and there, so I'd probably think a trim router would be the ideal tool for just this purpose. It offers a stable base, ample power and manueverability. I want to replace my Rotozip with a trim router.

Just sold my old Craftsman router on this board and upgraded recently to a Bosch 1617 EVS. Great tool, but overkill just for hole cutting. Check Craigslist for used tools, that's where I've bought lots of mine from. The advantage being that most power tools are quite heavy and cost alot to ship, so ebay isn't always the deal it's cracked up to be. Craigslist, local sellers, and little patience = good deals on tools.

Come to think of it, if you want to try out a Rotozip, I'd be willing to dump mine cheap (has circle cutting attachment) since I'm looking for an excuse anyway to buy a trim router too!  PM me if interested.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

What do you guys think of this?

http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1405.htm

I know its reconditioned but I'm on a budget here. That is alrady more than I really want to spend. (I'm cheap, I know) Would a trim router be able to do things like rounded edges?


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

02bluesuperroo said:


> What do you guys think of this?
> 
> http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1405.htm
> 
> I know its reconditioned but I'm on a budget here. That is alrady more than I really want to spend. (I'm cheap, I know) Would a trim router be able to do things like rounded edges?


 Personally I prefer not to skimp on a tool that spins a very sharp bit _*in excess of 20,000 rpm*_.  A trim router can do _small_ roundovers etc however as with any tool it must be used within it's limits to be safe (which IMO is most important)


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

zfactor said:


> hehe cheater, yeah i just made our kitchen cabinets fot the first time they came out pretty darn good imo .. ill have to post some pics.. very time consuming i never thought it would take so much time mostly all the finish work..hey you ever do reapir on finishes?? i have a "pickled ash and burl dining table that needs a small spot repaired but im not sure how to start remaking the pickled finish? any suggestions??


I have several guys that do finishing for me and they are even tighter lipped than I am about giving up "tricks of the trade" so I can't help you on that one!


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

shinjohn said:


> Check Craigslist for used tools, that's where I've bought lots of mine from. The advantage being that most power tools are quite heavy and cost alot to ship, so ebay isn't always the deal it's cracked up to be. Craigslist, local sellers, and little patience = good deals on tools.


Yeah craigslist is a great place to find bargains on tools  . If you really want to "overkill" I'll be posting a Delta shaper with a couple of grand worth of knives up on the SF site this week


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

I use that Ryobi router and I think it's great for the money. Porter Cable definitely makes an outstanding router, but since I don't do commercial work and generally use my router for small household projects the Ryobi works just fine. It has all the features you'll find you need. It is well built, so it's not bargain basement. Also, the circle jibs you get on Parts Express fit it perfectly.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

MiniVanMan said:


> I use that Ryobi router and I think it's great for the money. Porter Cable definitely makes an outstanding router, but since I don't do commercial work and generally use my router for small household projects the Ryobi works just fine. It has all the features you'll find you need. It is well built, so it's not bargain basement. Also, the circle jibs you get on Parts Express fit it perfectly.


I sometimes forget I'm not the "average DIY'er"  so I'd have to agree that as long as it is _used within it's limits_ it should be fine for someone that doesn't use a router daily for several hours as I sometimes do  .


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

If you have a cheap jigsaw you are going to have a tough time cutting accurately. When I upgraded to a nicer one it was much easier to cut circles out. I really only break out the router to do really small circles, and for flush cutting and roundovers. The jigsaw I bought was a $60 Skil on sale at Lowe's for $30 last year. Works great for me, way better than the generic $20 piece of crap I had before. I also now have a older Porter Cable which is also nice, but I like the Skil a bit better. Make sure to buy good quality blades too, they help a lot.

Mr. Marv, what's the best way to make angled rings like that? Do you just sand them down or is there a better trick? Sorry for the hijack!


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Mr Marv said:


> I sometimes forget I'm not the "average DIY'er"  so I'd have to agree that as long as it is _used within it's limits_ it should be fine for someone that doesn't use a router daily for several hours as I sometimes do  .


I will use mine prolly once a year.  What kind of bit do i need to cut out circles?


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

Just a regular straight or spiral upcut bit to cut circles.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

I use a cheap non-plunge Ryobi Router I bought at Home Depot. I have to drill a pilot hole but I don't mind. For the limited use it gets, it works perfectly fine. I have a circle jig that I bought at home depot that is also an edge guide. It is a PITA to convert it between modes and set it up for cuts...but again I can deal with it for the limited number of times I use it. 

The real expense with routers is paying for the bits. You can get a cheap set to start out but eventually you'll need to fork out $20-50 per bit for the ones you really want. 

Porter Cable Routers are nice...but for a hobbyist like myself...it is simply too much money to spend on something that won't get that much use. Keep that in mind when you buy your tools.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

Off topic, but personally the ones that fire straight out work better in my car. Firing at an angle up or toward the passenger has a worse frequency response in my experience, due to the restrictive opening/cover/grille in the door.


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

npdang said:


> Off topic, but personally the ones that fire straight out work better in my car. Firing at an angle up or toward the passenger has a worse frequency response in my experience, due to the restrictive opening/cover/grille in the door.


Good point, I hadn't thought about that.


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## Jim85IROC (Jun 8, 2005)

02bluesuperroo said:


> What do you guys think of this?
> 
> http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1405.htm
> 
> I know its reconditioned but I'm on a budget here. That is alrady more than I really want to spend. (I'm cheap, I know) Would a trim router be able to do things like rounded edges?


I have that router. I paid $100 from Home Depot. It's not a bad router, but after building only a couple sets of speakers (over a 2 year period), I discoverd that the plunge mechanism has gotten sloppy, so I have to apply a side-loading pressure when pluging otherwise I wind up with a divot in my circle where I plunge into it. It's got good power, and the 1/2" collet is nice too. I had to grind some of the aluminum base to fit my 1" roundover bit, which is a massive bit, but it's got more than enough power to push that bit through MDF. When cutting circles with a 1/2" diameter bit, I can do 3/4" in 3 passes... I could do it in 2 but I prefer 3. 

My other complaint is that the base uses an unconventional 2-bolt mounting pattern, so bolting it up to router tables and various jigs requires modification. Since I make my own jigs anyway, this wasn't really a big issue for me.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

khail19 said:


> Mr. Marv, what's the best way to make angled rings like that? Do you just sand them down or is there a better trick? Sorry for the hijack!


It is "tricky" and can be a very dangerous operation even with years of experience so I would prefer not to describe how I do it. I don't want to come here one day and read about someone losing a finger or something worse trying to do something I did  so *PLEASE* don't try any operations like this unless you have the proper tools and experience to do it safely!


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Jim85IROC said:


> My other complaint is that the base uses an unconventional 2-bolt mounting pattern, so bolting it up to router tables and various jigs requires modification. Since I make my own jigs anyway, this wasn't really a big issue for me.


It mates right up to the PE circle jib though. 

It's looking more and more like this is the on I will pick up unless someone has a better idea in the same price range.


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## MiniVanMan (Jun 28, 2005)

The PE circle jig is built for a 1/4" straight bit. However, know that a router bit's worst enemy is heat, and MDF creates A LOT of heat. So my suggestion is to use a 1/2" straight spiral upcut bit, with a 1/2" shank. It requires you to do a little math when using the PE Jasper jig, but you'll save yourself money in the long run by not burning up bits. MDF is right below concrete in it's ability to destroy a router bit. 

Just my opinion.

Oh and Jim85IROC is right about taking multiple passes when going through 3/4" MDF. Once again, it's a heat thing.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

MiniVanMan said:


> The PE circle jig is built for a 1/4" straight bit. However, know that a router bit's worst enemy is heat, and MDF creates A LOT of heat. So my suggestion is to use a 1/2" straight spiral upcut bit, with a 1/2" shank. It requires you to do a little math when using the PE Jasper jig, but you'll save yourself money in the long run by not burning up bits. MDF is right below concrete in it's ability to destroy a router bit.
> 
> Just my opinion.
> 
> Oh and Jim85IROC is right about taking multiple passes when going through 3/4" MDF. Once again, it's a heat thing.


Thanks for the tips.


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## Jim85IROC (Jun 8, 2005)

02bluesuperroo said:


> It mates right up to the PE circle jib though.
> 
> It's looking more and more like this is the on I will pick up unless someone has a better idea in the same price range.


Good to know, although I use my own circle jig. I prefer the infinite adjustability of my jig instead of the "pick a hole" style of the PE piece. It takes me sometimes a half dozen practice cuts to get the perfect hole size, but the result is always a perfectly snug fit instead of a hole that's a hair big.

Plus those practice cuts come in handy... when I finally find the size I want, I save the piece so that I can use it as a stencil with a pattern bit for future cuts instead of fooling with the jig all over again. This is handy for standard sizes like 104mm tweeters, or other items like Seas who use the same basket for everything.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Well the PE piece goes in 1/16" increments. It seems that would be plenty accurate.


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## theonion (May 27, 2005)

How about some more detail on actually cutting the circles with a router an jig? If you cut the middle first, then you don't have a center anymore. If you cut the outside first, now you're trying to anchor a much smaller piece of wood while you cut out the center. I suppose you could cut most of the way through, cut around the channels with a jigsaw and then clean up with a router table and flush cut bit. That just seems like a lot more work than necessary.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

Jim85IROC said:


> Good to know, although I use my own circle jig. I prefer the infinite adjustability of my jig instead of the "pick a hole" style of the PE piece. It takes me sometimes a half dozen practice cuts to get the perfect hole size, but the result is always a perfectly snug fit instead of a hole that's a hair big.
> 
> Plus those practice cuts come in handy... when I finally find the size I want, I save the piece so that I can use it as a stencil with a pattern bit for future cuts instead of fooling with the jig all over again. This is handy for standard sizes like 104mm tweeters, or other items like Seas who use the same basket for everything.


Sounds like you use a similar jig to my old one. If I can find it (and you'd like) I can send you a picture of a simple "measuring jig" I made that was quick and accurate once calibrated and you won't need to make so many practice cuts


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## lbridges (Jan 4, 2006)

theonion said:


> How about some more detail on actually cutting the circles with a router an jig? ....


I don't know how pros do it, but I just use the cheapest double sided tape I can find - it doesn't really have to hold all that well, just keep the piece in place.

Cut the outside, then the inside. BTW, unless you're using thin material it should be done in multiple passes - see posts above on heat.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

SOLUTION...

NEVER CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH.

Using your perfect circle jig (whatever flavor you have) cut a channel that is at least 3/8" deep. Do the inner circle and the outer circle before continuing. I usually router 1/2" deep because it makes step 3 a little easier...but you've got to take it slow to avoid overheating the bit. You should always go slow anyway to avoid pulling on the jig which can temporarily bring it out of alignment.

Next, use your jig saw to cut through the rest of the baffle. Take your time and stay within the channel. Cut the inside first, then the outside so you can easily hold the piece.

Finally, flip over the baffle and use a flush trim bit (the one with a bearing on the bottom) to clean up your jig saw cut. You may have to clamp it down a few times to get all the way around. If you routered the right amount in step 1 the bearing won't stick out below the baffle. That means you can router on a flat surface instead of propping it up.


Not cutting through also comes with an additional advantage. When you are more than 2/3rds complete you don't have to worry about the center piece moving around (especially when you are almost done and it breaks loose and messes up your entire baffle).


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

chuyler1 said:


> SOLUTION...
> 
> NEVER CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH.
> 
> ...


Good idea.


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## brass monkey (Sep 18, 2005)

For rings this is what I do. Cut the outside first keeping in mind the with of the 1/4" blade will throw off the PE jig as its meant as a measurement to the outside of the bit not the inside. Then find a piece of scrap and clamp it to the table then use your air nailer to nail your circle into the scrap with only 2 or 3 nails make sure the nails are toward the middle and in the ring but not in the cutting path. set blade depth to about 1/8" deeper than your ring now use the same center hole and cut away. You can do several passes lowering the blade bit by bit if it helps. Once your through grab a putty knife and slowly pry up your new ring you didn't use too many nails did you because that will make this difficult. 

This can be kind of tricky if you don't feel comfortable with my instructions me and Mr. Marv and I’m sure many others can make you some rings and get them shipped to you for less than a missing finger  Normally I wouldn't post wood working tricks as it's a craft that has taken me a long time to learn from experience, but I don't want to see anybody trying to make a ring by holding it and getting that close to a blade. 
Oh and I use Rigid with a plunge and fixed base I just got it because my old router started getting a nasty vibration and started shutting itself off randomly. I like it a lot, it’s the model that can be found in any home depot right now for $180 with both bases. I also use a spiral up cut blade otherwise the saw dust stays in your cutting channel and gets in the way.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

My idea above also works great for more intricate cuts with your router...


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Now that I have a good idea of how one would go about cutting circles, how about the much easier but not-entirely-obvious-to-me straight edge?  I appreciate you guys sharing some of your more obvious 'secrets'.


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## theonion (May 27, 2005)

chuyler1 said:


> SOLUTION...
> 
> NEVER CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH.
> 
> Using your perfect circle jig (whatever flavor you have) cut a channel that is at least 3/8" deep. Do the inner circle and the outer circle before continuing. ...


Your post is exactly the process I was trying to describe. It just seemed like a lot of steps and I wondered if there was a better way. As far as giving woodworking tips is concerned....as long as you're not recommending something reckless, or outside the intended use of the tool as Marv said, I don't see the problem.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

It is alot of steps...but it works. If you want a quick and dirty way of doing it, just free-hand it with a jig saw (or use a jig-saw circle jig). The router is about precision.

For straight edges...use a table saw. If you don't have a table saw use a circular saw with a straight edge clamped to the piece you are cutting. If you only have your router, you can use also use a straight edge. It requires several trial and error measurements to get the straight edge lined up properly but sometimes it works better than a table saw (which can give you a slightly angled cut if the blade isn't perfectly aligned). 

There are other tricks too if the cut is really close to the side of your piece. For example, my circle jig is also an edge jig...


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Last thing I'm wondering about if someone doesn't mind. 

How would I make my new speaker ring have a rounded outer edge?


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## brass monkey (Sep 18, 2005)

02bluesuperroo said:


> Last thing I'm wondering about if someone doesn't mind.
> 
> How would I make my new speaker ring have a rounded outer edge?




you put your router in the router table with a 1/4 round over bit in it. keep the ring flat on the table and spin it against the router blade making sure not to get your fingers too close.


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## minitruck_freq (Mar 27, 2005)

i have a Porter Cable 690. with both of the Jasper jigs from PE. i also have an edge guide. im looking into buying a straight edge to cut mdf sheets with the router. a full sheet is tough on my table saw when im by myself. Tru grip has a few nice straight edges with router base attatchments. http://www.trugrip.com/


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

brass monkey said:


> you put your router in the router table with a 1/4 round over bit in it. keep the ring flat on the table and spin it against the router blade making sure not to get your fingers too close.



So you have to have a table to do it?


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## brass monkey (Sep 18, 2005)

Well I guess you could nail it down with the air nailer to a bigger piece of scrap wood that you have clamped down. Then use the router like regular making sure not to tip the router since it will be balancing on the small trim ring. The point is be safe and dont get your fingers close their is always a better way of doing it you just have to stop and think about it for a minute. But it sure beats your friends asking you "why didnt you just do this." as you sit in a hospital bed 

I assume you guys are DIYers you could always make a router table couldn't be too hard. I'm sure there are plans out their.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

brass monkey said:


> Well I guess you could nail it down with the air nailer to a bigger piece of scrap wood that you have clamped down. Then use the router like regular making sure not to tip the router since it will be balancing on the small trim ring. The point is be safe and dont get your fingers close their is always a better way of doing it you just have to stop and think about it for a minute. But it sure beats your friends asking you "why didnt you just do this." as you sit in a hospital bed
> 
> I assume you guys are DIYers you could always make a router table couldn't be too hard. I'm sure there are plans out their.


I was thinking it wouldn't be that tough to just make one.


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## newtitan (Mar 7, 2005)

i use a porter cable 693 dual base/plunge

I LOVE that thing, Marv recommended it, got it NIB for 120 off ebay a yr ago

id recommend a plunge, makes that first drop in with the jasper jig real easy


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## newtitan (Mar 7, 2005)

zfactor said:


> hehe cheater, yeah i just made our kitchen cabinets fot the first time they came out pretty darn good imo .. ill have to post some pics.. very time consuming i never thought it would take so much time mostly all the finish work..hey you ever do reapir on finishes?? i have a "pickled ash and burl dining table that needs a small spot repaired but im not sure how to start remaking the pickled finish? any suggestions??


duude you made your OWN cabinets WOW 

thats awesome please post pics I love to see woodwork, i suck at it personally


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## legend94 (Mar 15, 2006)

Mr Marv said:


> Depending on size/thickness I use a router with a simple custom made jig, my router table or my drill press with a custom made jig and with a little experience  you can even make them like this  :



these look great, as does all your work
have any pics of your install?


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## MIAaron (May 10, 2005)

minitruck_freq said:


> i have a Porter Cable 690. with both of the Jasper jigs from PE. i also have an edge guide. im looking into buying a straight edge to cut mdf sheets with the router. a full sheet is tough on my table saw when im by myself. Tru grip has a few nice straight edges with router base attatchments. http://www.trugrip.com/


If you're gonna do that then use a circular saw. It's faster, less dust, less bit wear and safer.

FWIW, I bought a few adjustable height rollers for cutting sheets myself on the table saw. I also clamp an extra guide on the far side of the table saw to keep the sheet from leading out. It's a lot easier than trying to wrestle a full sheet freehand.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

legend94 said:


> these look great, as does all your work
> have any pics of your install?


Thanks! Unfortunately I rarely have time to work on my own system but I'm keeping a photo log as I go along and will post in the install gallery when I get done (eventually  )


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## ws6 beat (Jul 14, 2005)

I bought a hitachi m12v from amazon 149.99 shipped. you can find them on ebay cheaper. there are some good reviews on htguide.com about it


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## MIAaron (May 10, 2005)

I bought the dewalt 3 base set from amazon. It was on sale for $220 shipped and also came with a free 5 piece offset bearing set. With the 10% off coupon I had it came in under $200. I just wish the standard base had the shop vac attachement like the plunge base.

http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DW618B.../ref=sr_1_22/105-9805869-6646852?ie=UTF8&s=hi


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

I use a Porter Cable 895. Good 'ol industry standard. I actually have the kit that comes with the plubge base also. I use a jigsaw to trim any router work then finish it with the router. It's safer and prolongs the life of your bits. I plan on getting the Rigid laminate trimmer at the HD for the smaller jobs. It seems like the best one for the $95 HD wants for it. We'll see, I'd like to stay with Porter CAble if I can since I haven't had any problems in 8 years of using their products.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm really glad this thread got so many replies. I really appreciate the advice, ideas and wisdom that you have all provided. I have decided to start with this unit:

http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1405.htm

I am aware that it has its drawbacks. For starters, it's a remanufactured unit. However, being as cost conscious as I am, I have purchased refurbished/remanufactured items many times and have never had any problems.

I also realize that this unit may not be the most reliable but I feel it will be good enough for a person like myself. I may only use this thing 1 time per year. I do not own a home and am on my way to being married and hopefully purchasing one. I am very cost conscious at this point in my life. 

It has a 1/2" collet, works with the PE jigs, and seems to have all the major features that the more expensive routers have.

Thanks again for all your help.


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## khail19 (Oct 27, 2006)

If you need some bits, these are good quality for pretty cheap. Look for the 1/2" 15pc set on sale for $35 here...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/sp061213.htm

I've used Harbor Freight bits as well, they are OK but not as nice as the MLCS ones. MDF is really hard on router bits.


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## unpredictableacts (Aug 16, 2006)

what about old faithful craftsman........are their routers decent for just hole cutting and the occasional edge rounding?...I was just looking for a small plunge router.....such as....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Sears-Craftman-...ryZ20781QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/Milwaukee-5615-...0QQihZ012QQcategoryZ20781QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


you can auctually het some decent 1-1/2hp to 1-3/4hp routers for under $125.00


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## ws6 beat (Jul 14, 2005)

The hitachi i got is 3 1/4 hp


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## MIAaron (May 10, 2005)

Just be sure to get something that has built in dust colllection or an add on piece.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

Mr. Marv I gotta hit u up on those angled baffles.


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## boltupright (Feb 14, 2007)

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/Jasper/Jasper+Circle+Jigs.html


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## robbyho (Oct 21, 2005)

I use a custom mold and pour in my own special composite mix (top secret, don't even ask). I call it UDF (ultra density fiberboard). It is stronger than mdf with no resonance, and the mounting holes won't open up no matter how many times you screw into them. The best part is no sawdust to worry about.

Rob


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

robbyho said:


> I use a custom mold and pour in my own special composite mix (top secret, don't even ask). I call it UDF (ultra density fiberboard). It is stronger than mdf with no resonance, and the mounting holes won't open up no matter how many times you screw into them. The best part is no sawdust to worry about.
> 
> Rob


That is a pretty cool idea, if you'd tell us about it.  

This site is supposed to be for sharing information not hoarding it. 

I can completely understand if you're in the car audio business though (which you are), just ilke Mr. Marv and his l33t box making skills.

FWIW, I bought that ryobi router and I have used it to make two mounting rings, one speaker baffle, and one ABS trim ring and it has worked flawlessly the entire time. Plenty of power. I bought the MLCS Woodworking bits that Khail posted and they have been spectacular for the money.


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## cam2Xrunner (Apr 30, 2005)

I use Marv to make my baffles :lol:


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

there is nothing i cant do with a pencil a jigsaw and coarse sandpaper.


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## MidnightCE (Mar 5, 2007)

Using a dremel for rings sucks. I have to do this for small rings. Otherwise, I have a craftsman multi cutting tool that does a decent job. Its basically a router.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I bought my $180 retail Stanley Bostitch air nailer for $50 here. It was a factory blem (paint was screwed up in the factory) so they sell it dirt cheap here since it can't be sold @ Lowe's or the like.

You can get some KILLER deals there. I haven't seen routers, but for nailers, circle saws, drills, etc they can't be beat.


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## The Blue Blur (Sep 14, 2006)

I'm a noob so so far I've made 10 rings using a jig saw. When they haven't fit as intended I've revised them with a dremel. I'm a perfectionist with other things, but I don't really care that a wooden ring I won't see ever isn't perfectly round.


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## s10scooter (Feb 5, 2007)

I use this and a jasper jig.

http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=RF1101KIT2

I wish I could make those slanted rings like Mr. Marve.


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## tbreihan (Sep 30, 2005)

The P-C 690 router (1-3/4 HP) is pretty much the industry-standard for handheld routers. You can get the 693 kit (fixed and plunge bases) on Amazon for $180, and it is a worthwhile investment for a tool that will probably outlast you.

If you go to your local home center, they will likely not have the 690 but will instead sell the 2-1/4 HP 893 kit. Stay away from this Mexican-made piece of junk. The plunge base on he 893 is particularly horrendous; hard-to-set depth gauge and gritty/sticky operation.

In lieu of the 690, the Bosch 2-1/4 HP kit (I don't remember the model, but it is one with the maple handles) is a great router. This is also about $180 and these are pretty much the only two routers that I would ever consider buying. IMO, you'll pay more for cheap tools in the long run and, even you aren't a heavy user , you will see the difference that a good tool makes.


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## Rockin'Z28 (Sep 26, 2007)

This is what I used to cut my rings. It's a CNC Hurco, probably costs several thousand dollars. But I just went into work after hours and had a buddy help program it up. It was fast and did a SUPER job!!


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## jj_diamond (Oct 3, 2007)

Mr Marv said:


> It is "tricky" and can be a very dangerous operation even with years of experience so I would prefer not to describe how I do it. I don't want to come here one day and read about someone losing a finger or something worse trying to do something I did  so *PLEASE* don't try any operations like this unless you have the proper tools and experience to do it safely!


i would just use a belt sander if i had one.


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## johnson (May 1, 2007)

Ive seen people build a small CNC machine for under $1000.


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## moosejuice (Oct 5, 2007)

I usally use a roto zip to cut out baffles; but I am going to switch to useing my router next time.

B-


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## darkfrog (Jul 22, 2007)

I have to comment on a seller on eBay that I bought a set of 1.5" thick rings for my Seas CA18RNX drivers. I was going to go with someone here on DIYMA but just to compare, sent a question to this eBay seller http://myworld.ebay.com/theinfamousfrootloops
He made the rings using my initial measurements which turned out to be incorrect because when I converted the mm size to inches, I did something wrong. I felt really stupid by not checking an re-checking the size before I gave it to him but he was very understanding and sent me another set for only the charge of shipping. 
He was quick, courteous, very professional and of course the price was better than I found other places including some builders here on DIYMA. He said he is a member here but did not give me his username (it is obviously different than his eBay name since I did a search for it but came up with null).
Anyone that needs a one or two time custom router cut MDF, it probably isn't worth spending the money for a router and jig so I don't think you can do much better than http://myworld.ebay.com/theinfamousfrootloops

There are so many people that post a complaint about this or that seller, but I like to let people know when I have a better than average experience with a seller.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

Sure seems to be a lot of threads on these router and jig subjects lately! Here's my latest again and it may be available to anyone who wants one as soon as I have some spare time.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25370

















[/QUOTE]


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## wild_eye (Oct 15, 2007)

Those mdf rings on ebay look really good. For those doing a 1 or 2 personal installs there is really nothing easier than that.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

tbreihan said:


> If you go to your local home center, they will likely not have the 690 but will instead sell the 2-1/4 HP 893 kit. Stay away from this Mexican-made piece of junk. The plunge base on he 893 is particularly horrendous; hard-to-set depth gauge and gritty/sticky operation.



I like the drive unit and the fixed base. But I agree, the plunge isnt the best action out there, and it has play to boot. if Im gonna divit my baffles and also have rings from each pass i have to smooth out with with flush trim bit I may as well use the fixed base to cut holes.

Hey Marv, would you like to detail out the assembly of the pivot pin for your model there? Im curious how you put that together. Looks sweet.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

Whiterabbit said:


> I like the drive unit and the fixed base. But I agree, the plunge isnt the best action out there, and it has play to boot. if Im gonna divit my baffles and also have rings from each pass i have to smooth out with with flush trim bit I may as well use the fixed base to cut holes.
> 
> Hey Marv, would you like to detail out the assembly of the pivot pin for your model there? Im curious how you put that together. Looks sweet.


It's just a 1/4"x20 bolt with the head cut off and a hole drilled in it for the locking pin which fits in that slot under the sliding piece and keeps the pivot from turning when you tighten the knob.


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

brilliant. And how does the locking mechanism work? tightening the knob pulls the locking pin up. So is the locking pin the structural member that pulls the sliding piece against the jig body to lock the jig into a particular measurement?

(also, did you use a local source to buy the measuring tape? I need some for my miter saw too!)


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## Xander (Mar 20, 2007)

What do you mean by hand jig saw and electric jig saw?...


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Xander said:


> What do you mean by hand jig saw and electric jig saw?...


I mean an electric jigsaw where you plug it in and the blade moves up and down real fast or a hand jigsaw which is not powered. 

A hand jigsaw think of as kind of like a hack saw only the shape is more square than rectangle, the saw is shorter and the blade is much thinner and narrower so it can be maneuvered around corners ect.



Edit: Now that you brought it up I'm not sure how well a hand jigsaw would work at doing cutouts.....


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## Whiterabbit (May 26, 2006)

its called a coping saw, by the way.


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

Whiterabbit said:


> its called a coping saw, by the way.


Ok, thanks.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Whiterabbit said:


> its called a coping saw, by the way.


You BEAT me to it. Coping saw. I need one those right now. 

It's very difficult *coping* with my girlfriend.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AMANA-WHITESIDE...ryZ67243QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Could be a handy little starter set for guys that want to get started.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

I've always used my 10 year old Sears jigsaw.


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## tcguy85 (Oct 29, 2007)

Mr Marv said:


> Depending on size/thickness I use a router with a simple custom made jig, my router table or my drill press with a custom made jig and with a little experience  you can even make them like this  :


whats the easiest and best way for most people to make angled baffles like that? i would like to try and angle my left mid a bit so its more on axis like the right mid. not sure i'll be able to tell a huge difference but i'd like to maybe try it.


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## zero7404 (Jan 31, 2008)

i used to have mdf for my front door mounts. had to replace the speakers, new shop didn't know what they were doing and ruined the rings.

had them replaced with plastic rings (apparently they are available to stereo shops for 6.5" comps, and they are stackable).

is there a big difference in sound ? I couldn't tell because the mdf was replaced to plastic and new speakers were put in, can't really compare.

both installations were dynamated around the outside of the baffles.


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## darkfrog (Jul 22, 2007)

If you don't need to make them a lot, I have found some good sellers on eBay. The guy I used made custom size and angle for less than $15 shipped for 1.5" thick rings (2- 3/4" glued together). The local install shops around here wanted over $40 for similar rings
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=mdf+ring*&category0=


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## jp88 (Jun 25, 2007)

I use a Hitachi km-12vc and really like it.

On another not for those who don't want to spend much on a jigsaw. Don't expect accurate cuts. I have used a number of jigsaws varying from a $20 skill to a Bosch and there is NO comparison. If you want to make accurate cuts with a jigsaw pony and and pay the piper. Buy a Bosch.


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

plunge router with Jasper jig for the mount area and handheld jigsaw or bench bandsaw as applicable for shape if other than cirlces.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

placenta said:


> I've always used my 10 year old Sears jigsaw.


I think I'll buy a new jigsaw tomorrow for my 1" adapters I'll be cutting. I've been using a Craftsman for a long time and the blade is always angled. Is Bosch really one of the best? I dont really want to spend $150, but I could. I dont use it much anyway. Only for speaker adapters.


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## jp88 (Jun 25, 2007)

From my experience yes. I used a craftsman jigsaw to flush mount Marine electronics for 3 yrs before I used a Bosch jigsaw. I always thought I just didn't have the touch to cut halfway straight (read with a cheap jigsaw I was constantly trying to keep my cuts halfway straight) The day after I used a Bosch jigsaw I bought one for myself. I'm not saying that it will turn a novice into a carpenter, but there is a big difference.


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

meh, ive used a lot of jigsaws over the years, if your cutting thick material 2 inches and more a good saw is better, but in the end, its just the blade moving up and down, and its only 3/4 mdf, so i find a sharp blade more important than the tool itself, buy a $40 black and decker jig saw and the best blades you can get, dont buy cheap weak blunt or thin blades.cheaper jig saws today are as good as very expensive jig saws from 2 years ago.

ime


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

placenta said:


> I think I'll buy a new jigsaw tomorrow for my 1" adapters I'll be cutting. I've been using a Craftsman for a long time and the blade is always angled. Is Bosch really one of the best? I dont really want to spend $150, but I could. I dont use it much anyway. Only for speaker adapters.


Or you could just have ME make your speaker adapters then take me out for a beer and STILL have money left over. 

Seriously....I bought my Bosch 1587AVS back in 1996/1997 and I had tried one out I just knew it was the standard by which all other were measured up to. 

Well.....the first time I fired that bad boy up....it was like being used to a 1983 Ford Escort and sitting in a Ferrari 360 Modena for the first time and turning the ignition. :blush:


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

60ndown said:


> meh, ive used a lot of jigsaws over the years, if your cutting thick material 2 inches and more a good saw is better, but in the end, its just the blade moving up and down, and its only 3/4 mdf, so i find a sharp blade more important than the tool itself, buy a $40 black and decker jig saw and some $10 blades.cheaper jig saws today are as good as very expensive jig saws from 2 years ago.
> 
> ime


Performance out of box maybe....but will they LAST and be reliable like a high quality jigsaw will be? Doubt it.


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

GlasSman said:


> Performance out of box maybe....but will they LAST and be reliable like a high quality jigsaw will be? Doubt it.


but most of us car audio phools only cut mdf baffles once.or twice.then it sits on a shelf.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

60ndown said:


> but most of us car audio phools only cut mdf baffles once.or twice.then it sits on a shelf.


True. But penny for penny apple for apple.......the higher quality jigsaw is built better and will be usable in 10, 20, 30 years. 

I've used mine at LEAST once a week and after 11 years it's STILL like brand new. 

And if you ever start using a router a quality jigsaw is a necesity.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

GlasSman said:


> Seriously....I bought my Bosch 1587AVS back in 1996/1997 and I had tried one out I just knew it was the standard by which all other were measured up to.


Thats the exact model I'm going out to buy in a few mins. Along with a new sheet of 1" HDPE. The 12" x 18" sheet supposedly costs $26.


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## placenta (Feb 2, 2008)

The new Bosch jogsaw is incredible. It really is like going from a Tercel to a Ferrari. The motor feels like its balanced and blueprinted.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

I have a Sears gift card and am in need of a router. Can anyone suggest one that they'd recommend?


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

BEAVER said:


> I have a Sears gift card and am in need of a router. Can anyone suggest one that they'd recommend?



Just stay away from any Craftsman router.

Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hitachi-M12VC-2...ryZ20781QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The Hitachi can't be beat for the price.

I'll be getting one soon to accompany my Porter CAble 690.

I've owned an older Craftsman router circa 1991 and it self destructed after a few uses. I do not trust them and will NEVER use one or recommend one to anyone.


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## BEAVER (May 26, 2007)

> Just stay away from any Craftsman router.


Too late. I hope I won't regret it but I had to get a Craftsman. My local Sears only has Craftsman routers, so I was forced into it. 

For as little as I'll use it, I'm sure it'll be fine. I may make a dozen enclosures in the rest of my lifetime.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Why this, of course. Whenever possible.

At home it would be a router jig I made from baltic birch ply that uses the metal hardware from a cheesy plastic Craftsman jig. Porter-Cable 1-1/2HP router doesn't do badly.

Grizzly makes a passable copy of the Bosch jigsaw for less dough, it's not too bad.

Brian


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## 69cents (Mar 21, 2008)

Hey guys, I want to buy some power tools for cutting mdf for speaker ring and sub enclosure. I need help whather the tools I want to buy is perfect/good/ok. Tools around here are very very limited, and I'm using 240V. So only Makita & Bosch are avaliable...

Router:
Bosch Router - Bosch POF 1100AE 1/4" Plunge Router 1100w 240v
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=120996
Makita Router - Model 3620 
http://www.makita.com.sg/products_details.asp?id=1&prodID=12&itemID=169&typeID=2

Which of this two should I get. Some recommend to get 1400watt with 1/2 collet, what is this? What does it do and what is the different with 1/4 collet?

Circular Saw:
Bosch GKS190
http://www.eastwestintl.com/proddetail.asp?pid=3512
Would is circular saw be good choise?


TQ guys


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Collet size corresponds to the diameter of the shaft of the cutter, the collet grips the bit. 1/4" is passable but 1/2" is much more desirable. The bit will vibrate much less (smoother cut) and you will be able to remove more material at once (within the limits of the router motor). Somebody mentioned a spiral upcut bit, that will help as well, requires less power from the router in addition to lasting longer.

Brian


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## Autophile (Nov 10, 2007)

I use Bosch Router along with Jasper Jig to cut rings, sub woofer cutouts along with flush mounting the drivers. Comes out very clean and perfect.


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## BlackSapphire (Apr 16, 2008)

I'm a big porter cable fan as well. I use a Porter cable jigsaw in fact. When I bought another router this year, I had to go with the Ridgid R2930 though. Dollar for dollar, I think it's one of the best routers out there. It's really tough to beat. Check out the reviews.

I also have a Ryobi laminate trimmer and an 'intermediate' Ryobi router table that I use from time to time.


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## KingDiamond (Apr 4, 2008)

I use an electric jigsaw, but I need to buy a router.


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## Catman (Mar 18, 2008)

Either my metal or wood lathe.

>^..^<


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

Like most guys I use a router and a Jasper Jig. That Jasper Jig was the best $50 I've ever spent, tool wise. My router is a $100 Craftsman, not sure of the model number. Also, I usually use my Dewalt laminate trimmer or a Craftsman router table to round corners.


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## smooth72 (Mar 23, 2006)

customtronic said:


> Like most guys I use a router and a Jasper Jig. That Jasper Jig was the best $50 I've ever spent, tool wise. My router is a $100 Craftsman, not sure of the model number. Also, I usually use my Dewalt laminate trimmer or a Craftsman router table to round corners.


As above, The Jasper is the way to go. I use a craftsmen digital plunge router. Then use my portable router table to round the edge.


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## batook (May 17, 2008)

I was at Sears last year and found a $109 2HP Craftsman floor model on the clearance rack marked down several times, to ...$18! I couldn't pass it up. It came with both fixed and plunge bases. It only has a 1/4" collet and was missing the collet nut, but still a great deal.
I finally had an excuse to use it to make some baffles a few weeks ago. It worked great. I don't have a jig, so I rough-cut the circle with my jigsaw and then cleaned it up with a 1/4" straight bit using the router free-hand. Took some patience, but worked pretty well, and I was able to use that as a template for my second baffle using a flush trim bit and screwing the template to the MDF with some wood screws in the speaker screw hole locations. I later installed tee-nuts in those same holes for mounting the speakers.

It sounds like I need to look into getting that Jasper jig from PE. Right now the model 200 and 400 combo pack is on special for $40.


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## AWC (Mar 31, 2008)

viagra.....not always really round though. REAL big holes


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## bretti_kivi (Dec 3, 2007)

??

anyway, i did another Sub baffle last night; a piece of ply. The idea of going most of the way through and then finishing off was excellent. Sawed the rest through, tidied with a flapwheel - excellent.

Oh, an my Jig is a 10mm piece of MDF with a hole, two screws and various holes for the different diameters....

Bret


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## falkenbd (Aug 16, 2008)

I use an old craftman router. Every time I need it I borrow it from a guy that I work with. 

Only because none of the routers I have have a circle jig, and I don't want to buy one if I don't have to. The circle jig is awesome, 5 or 6 passes to create a perfect circle.


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## kippo (Aug 31, 2008)

Mr Marv said:


>



i have Maktec trimmer which i only used once. How do i make the ring above with a trimmer?

my trimmer looks like a small router


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## Fiercetimbo17 (May 17, 2007)

he uses a drill press for that i believe, i use one as well and can do the same thing


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

Fiercetimbo17 said:


> he uses a drill press for that i believe, i use one as well and can do the same thing


A CNC router would be ideal  but I'm not quite sure how you could make a tapered ring using only a drill press.  In any case I purposely have never mentioned how I make tapered rings as it can be quite dangerous without the proper tools and experience.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

TApered rings require a very simple jig....a large jig....but simple.

I'll PM you Mr. MArv....and we can compare notes.

I thunk a real easy one the other night after a REAL good coffee.....not sure why I didn't thunk of it sooner.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

GlasSman said:


> TApered rings require a very simple jig....a large jig....but simple.
> 
> I'll PM you Mr. MArv....and we can compare notes.
> 
> I thunk a real easy one the other night after a REAL good coffee.....not sure why I didn't thunk of it sooner.


I have a couple of simple jigs I could use however I came up with a technique that allows me to make 2 matching tapered rings at one time (at any angle) and the only part I do on the drill press is make the cutout.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Mr Marv said:


> I have a couple of simple jigs I could use however I came up with a technique that allows me to make 2 matching tapered rings at one time (at any angle) and the only part I do on the drill press is make the cutout.


Thats different than what I'm thinking of....but theres more than one way to skin cat.:blush:


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## intechpower (Nov 12, 2008)

I use an older porter cable router (don't have model number) or my ryobi sc164vs scroll saw - small but effective - also have a 1" dremel belt sander for touch up work.


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## schuz24 (Dec 1, 2007)

I use our multicam it makes building rings a snap!
MultiCam - Products - CNC Router - 5000 Series


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## 4sixty2fairlane (Feb 7, 2009)

Do yourself a big favor and find a sign shop that has a cnc router. Take in your dimentions and they can cut them perfect.


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## finbar (Feb 1, 2009)

02bluesuperroo said:


> Well, I'm just wondering what everyone here uses to cut MDF rings. I have always used an electric jig saw but I was thinking of picking up a rotary tool like a Dremel.


Joking on-For circles use a circular saw, LOL-joking off.
Go with a router and dust collection, beware grey lung.
PVC or ABS pipe sections can be useful templates, lots of sizes and offcuts on the building site, ask the plumber.
A custom router base that extends past the router body in a teardropish shape can be used for cutting various larger diameters, router on big end, pivots on small end. Good with a plunge router.







. 
Use the blue teardrop jig and one pivot for circles. Rockler sells, but can be homemade.
Porter-Cable has held up well over the years. 
Hole saws are good for smaller diameters although a bit of rough cut.


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## ntimd8n-k5 (Nov 11, 2008)

Router with circle jig for me...


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

MMMMMmm
Router + MDF = much tasty dust
Stay away from cigarettes long enough to get lung cancer from a different obsession....

I use the plunge router and a Jasper jig.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

last time I got a jasper jig and borrowed a router , but Home Depot has a Roybi 1.5 Hp non plunge router for ~$60 and a Router and table for $100 very tempting.

R-


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## 02bluesuperroo (Oct 31, 2006)

I eventually bought a ryobi plunge router and jasper circle jig (which i broke in short order).

Works(ed) great.


----------



## EVcelica (Dec 30, 2008)

electric jig saw for me. would love to own a router, until then I'll cut by hand and file the edges as cleanup.


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## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

router + circle jig + chamfer bit =











I will always chamfer now even with 6.5" mids.


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## finbar (Feb 1, 2009)

James Bang said:


> router + circle jig + chamfer bit =
> 
> I will always chamfer now even with 6.5" mids.


What is the advantage of the chamfer?


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

James Bang said:


> router + circle jig + chamfer bit =
> 
> 
> 
> ...


NICELY DONE! It's a shame these will be out of sight.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

finbar said:


> What is the advantage of the chamfer?


To my limited knowledge it is to help the back wave escape, with out havening to bounce off of the ring.

I may be wrong but that is what I heard.

R-


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## ReelNauti (Jun 18, 2009)

What jigs are you using jasper or mainly custom jigs?


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

ReelNauti said:


> What jigs are you using jasper or mainly custom jigs?


I use a jasper but they break easy so be careful with it.

R-


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## slickrick (Jun 28, 2009)

router


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## LegendJeff (Jun 28, 2009)

I used a jigsaw first time around...router from then on. Much better!!


----------



## finbar (Feb 1, 2009)

labcoat22 said:


> To my limited knowledge it is to help the back wave escape, with out havening to bounce off of the ring.
> 
> I may be wrong but that is what I heard.
> 
> R-


thanks R, I'll try it on my next project.


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## ihartred (Jun 1, 2009)

i use a freud i got for $80 (the perks of working at Lowe's) it can be adjusted from above a table as well as bit changes... now i just need a router table to go on clearance...

but for a circle jig, i just use a board with a screw in one end and a one inch hole for a bit in the other.


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## jimbno1 (Apr 14, 2008)

Being a newby dumbass and new to routers, how do I start a non-plunge router using a jasper jig without messing everything up? I see pics of some guys starting cuts at an angle, but how can you do that with a jig attatched and even if that is possible how do you assure the center is correct?


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Depending on the router, you can usually loosen the nut that holds the motor firm in the base just enough to allow the motor housing to be turned and the bit 'plunged' into the work, then tighten it more to snug up the motor.

This is trivial on something like an old Bosch 1603 or 1604 and a bit more challenging on a newer Bosch 1617EVS or the 1-1/2 HP Porter Cables. Those are the only ones I own now so I can't speak to other brands/models.

I don't know how the Jasper jig holds center, but my homebrew jig with Craftsman parts requires a 1/8" diameter hole at the center of the radius you're going to rout (has a pin guide).


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

I voted for buttknife, fyi. I don't know what a buttknife is, but "holding a butterknife between your ass cheeks" wasn't an option so it was the best I could do.


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## finbar (Feb 1, 2009)

jimbno1 said:


> Being a newby dumbass and new to routers, how do I start a non-plunge router using a jasper jig without messing everything up? I see pics of some guys starting cuts at an angle, but how can you do that with a jig attatched and even if that is possible how do you assure the center is correct?


Drill a hole in the work, larger in diameter than the router bit, where you intend to rout. Place the bit in the hole, router off. Get a good grip on the router, it will try to move on startup, turn on the router and rout, clockwise.
Drilling the hole all the way thru from one side may cause blowout on the reverse side. Not always a concern but may be avoided by drilling partially from the face and completing from the reverse side. A paddle bit works well. Practice and safety rule, missing body parts do not grow back. Enjoy.

YouTube - How to Use Wood Routers : Wood Router Safety Etc


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

briansz said:


> Depending on the router, you can usually loosen the nut that holds the motor firm in the base just enough to allow the motor housing to be turned and the bit 'plunged' into the work, then tighten it more to snug up the motor.



This is how I do mine on my Porter Cable and I have no problems.

I'm not too keen on the PC plunge base for this type of work so I use the rotate-to-plunge method.

The only thing you have to watch out for is if the motor has wiggle room side to side you'll have some uneveness on the edges of the cut. 

It's easy to compensate for once you get used to what _*your*_ router wants to do.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

I'm not keen on the P/C plunge base for _much_. 

I use the 1617EVS for most of my freehand work. I have a Bosch 1603 permanently set up on a flushing jig. The 1-1/2HP P/C on the regular base is my choice for the circle jig (since that's what I made the jig to bolt onto when I built it ten years ago). 

At some point I will have to pick up a 2HP or greater plunge model for router table duty. Or maybe just the plunge base for the 1617EVS, I really like that router. Got it for a song from a guy that was moving to Ecuador of all places.


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## Askspot (May 22, 2009)

02bluesuperroo said:


> Well, I'm just wondering what everyone here uses to cut MDF rings. I have always used an electric jig saw but I was thinking of picking up a rotary tool like a Dremel.


I love the rotozip! It worked really slick. My family has one we pass around to whoever needs it. What a tool!!! :laugh:


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## fujifrench2k4 (Apr 18, 2009)

I did all my mdf rings using a plain ole dremel with the dremel circle jig.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

fujifrench2k4 said:


> I did all my mdf rings using a plain ole dremel with the dremel circle jig.


I've burned out more than 1 dremel tool doing this. Those things are great for small projects, but they aren't intended to cut through 3/4" mdf. You have to do it in 4 cuts or more, unless you want to fry the tool.

Adding a router to my tool box has been the single most beneficial and fun to use tool I've owned.


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## CrownMe (Aug 25, 2008)

Electric jigsaw worked out fine for me.. and it was my first set I made


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## caver50 (Sep 2, 2007)

Tip... If you use a jigsaw, try using a piece of styrofoam about 3 to 4inches thick under your mdf when your cutting. The styrofoam will help keep your blade strait.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Good idea on the styrofoam.

The main difference between jigsaws that cost less than $50 and more than $75 is that the more expensive ones have much better lateral support for the blade and generally can be set for either a straight stroke or an orbital stroke.

The orbital stroke can cut a lot faster in MDF, making for less stress and deflection on the blade, and the and cut is much squarer with a saw that has good blade support. Used Bosch jigsaws can be had on Craig's List for $60 and up, if you try one, you'll never go back.


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## caver50 (Sep 2, 2007)

briansz said:


> Good idea on the styrofoam.
> 
> The main difference between jigsaws that cost less than $50 and more than $75 is that the more expensive ones have much better lateral support for the blade and generally can be set for either a straight stroke or an orbital stroke.
> 
> The orbital stroke can cut a lot faster in MDF, making for less stress and deflection on the blade, and the and cut is much squarer with a saw that has good blade support. Used Bosch jigsaws can be had on Craig's List for $60 and up, if you try one, you'll never go back.


I'am with you, If I could afford it, all my tools would be Bosch. Excellent tools.


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## ihartred (Jun 1, 2009)

briansz said:


> Good idea on the styrofoam.
> 
> The main difference between jigsaws that cost less than $50 and more than $75 is that the more expensive ones have much better lateral support for the blade and generally can be set for either a straight stroke or an orbital stroke.
> 
> The orbital stroke can cut a lot faster in MDF, making for less stress and deflection on the blade, and the and cut is much squarer with a saw that has good blade support. Used Bosch jigsaws can be had on Craig's List for $60 and up, if you try one, you'll never go back.


my Skilsaw jigsaw I got for $5 has orbital and straight. The only difference i can tell between mine and the bosch we use at work is the ergonmics, an easier blade change, and a slighter smoother motor. Not saying it isn't a great tool, but the jigsaw I would skip over again.


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## norcalsfinest (Aug 30, 2008)

jig saw or rotozip, depending on the application. I'm pretty steady with a jigsaw, so for large cutouts that usually does the job. I bust out the rotozip for small cutouts, but it is definitely a slower process. I'll go about 1/4 of the ring, stop, let the bit and wood cool, then go another 1/4, etc. If the material is thick, i'll even do different depths as well.


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## Billk1002 (Aug 23, 2009)

I use an electric jig saw and I hate it. If anyone has a pic of a decent jig, it would be very much appreciated.


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## TREOSOLS (Jun 19, 2009)

I use g0a's perfect circle .


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## CharlieHustle (Aug 7, 2009)

I really need to make a jig for a router I just picked up.....

On another note, does anyone have issues with cutting out circles using a Rotozip? Mainly with the bits snapping? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I'm snapping a bit for every two to three 6" circles i'm cutting out of 3/4" MDF.


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

You may be going too fast. The heat build up on the bit will cause the steel to temper and get brittle..... MDF is a ***** when it comes to that.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

CharlieHustle said:


> I really need to make a jig for a router I just picked up.....
> 
> On another note, does anyone have issues with cutting out circles using a Rotozip? Mainly with the bits snapping? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I'm snapping a bit for every two to three 6" circles i'm cutting out of 3/4" MDF.





My issue with a Rotozip and MDF would not be with the bit snapping! You're scaring me <lol>.

I'll post pix of the router jig I made later tonight after I get home. It could be duplicated for a few dollars.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Router jig pix. 

All you really need to make it is a router (duh), top-bearing bit, jigsaw/bandsaw/scrollsaw, a knob and some metal bits. The metal parts on mine are from a cheap plastic Craftsman circle jig that broke eons ago. This one has been around ten years or so and I haven't managed to break it yet.

A Vix (self-centering) bit can make laying out the holes for the base a bit easier. Most people attempting this sort of woodworking will have all the tools needed to easily make the jig.

I bought the spare router base and just leave it mounted on the jig.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

Brianz....PERFECT. I use the same router with the Craftsmen circle jig.

I gotta make me one of those. My Craftsmen model needs to go and I really like the infinite adjustability better than the Jasper design.

Whats the max wood thickness you can safely cut with that?

I gouged a baffle last week that was 1.25" thick with my stock Craftsmen which is only what....1/4" thick maybe.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

When I first got into woodworking I asked my dad for a Bosch 1604 for Christmas. I got a Craftsman 1-1/2HP, and the circle jig. I gave the Craftsman router to my uncle and bought the 1604 myself. 

IIRC the circle jig came in two sections of plastic and was about as stiff as a wet noodle. It either broke or scared me and I made one similar to the one in the pix out of particleboard.

At some point the countersinks pulled out of the PB jig (I only had one router and took off the base and put it back on a lot) and I made the one you see in the pix out of baltic birch. Figured I'd make it for the 1-1/2 HP Porter Cable base since they're everywhere and I'd gotten the 3-piece Porter Cable kit in the meantime. It's been chugging along for a good while now.

If your bit and router can deal with it, 1.25" in several steps should not be a problem for the jig.


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## GlasSman (Nov 14, 2006)

I always cut through 3/4" MDF in 4 or 5 steps......what I'm saying is my setup barely cuts 1.25" without gouging the baffle with the chuck of the router.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

Obviously you're going to need a bit with fairly long cutting flutes. 

If it is an issue with router travel, then just use a 5/8" or 3/4" straight bit to cut as deep as you can with the circle jig, then finish it out with a 1/2" diameter top bearing bit. The larger plunge routers should have enough travel to do what you're describing with a straight cutter only, but I'm not sure the Porter Cable 1-1/2HP does. And I wouldn't use the pluge base from it at all, a high center of gravity and very unwieldy. My plunge base sits in the case unused.

The two-step process is a pain, but it's cheaper than buying another router if you're doing a lot of thick baffles (or if you can't flip them over and work from both sides with the circle jig).


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

New toy.... no hating


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

<Drooling>

Sure, I can access much bigger ones at work, but they're not _mine_.

Wish I had the room, longsuffering girlfriend would do bodily harm if I tried to stuff that in the garage too. I'm jealous!


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

My wife rocks... she'll probably buy me the plasma cutter for it for christmas. the supports can come out and a plasma bed drops in....... She wants me to finally do some of the "artistic" ideas I've been talking about for years. It's only 26 x 40 cutting area, but that should be plenty for me to learn how to do this stuff.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

slade1274 said:


> My wife rocks... she'll probably buy me the plasma cutter for it for christmas. the supports can come out and a plasma bed drops in....... She wants me to finally do some of the "artistic" ideas I've been talking about for years. It's only 26 x 40 cutting area, but that should be plenty for me to learn how to do this stuff.


This guys is in aww of how awesome your wife is. My GF some times complains about the pile of boxes in the living room.

R-


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## tonym (Jun 21, 2009)

Mr Marv said:


> Depending on size/thickness I use a router with a simple custom made jig, my router table or my drill press with a custom made jig and with a little experience  you can even make them like this  :


Very nice work


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## MaskMan (Jan 27, 2010)

Right now I use a Makita Cordless Jigsaw with orbit settings, works very well for most jobs I have done lately. I do not do this for a job anymore, hobby only. 

When I worked in the biz a router and a jig like briansz was the best. I too had a porter cable. Lost the jig years ago. The router quit at one point and never replaced. Maybe now that I have a house and I am doing some projects the wife will let me buy one...

Dremmel is too small for heavy work. Great tool. Still one of my favorites. Never will I be with out one of these puppies.

That CNC machine would be the the bomb!!!


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

This thread is obviously really old, but I figured I'd throw this in there:

I totally understand and respect the DIY attitude on this forum. But for those who are more budget oriented and don't want to buy expensive equipment that you'll use once a year, less than $15 gets you a pair of CNC cut rings in the exact thickness, and inner/outer dimensions you want from eBay.

Just sayin.


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## cannan (Jan 19, 2010)

strakele said:


> This thread is obviously really old, but I figured I'd throw this in there:
> 
> I totally understand and respect the DIY attitude on this forum. But for those who are more budget oriented and don't want to buy expensive equipment that you'll use once a year, less than $15 gets you a pair of CNC cut rings in the exact thickness, and inner/outer dimensions you want from eBay.
> 
> Just sayin.


That's how I got mine. I don't have the space to allow me to keep lots of "equipment" around the condo so I just bought mine. Works for me.


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

Or for a few dollars more gets you some from members of this same forum like myself and others here.
Just keeping it in the family so to speak.


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## bigguy (Apr 13, 2010)

I came up with a spiffy idea, i might of saw it somewhere but i might of made it up my self, not sure. the last circle cuts i made, the were in 1/2"mdf, i set the router to cut about 3/8" deep. usedmy nifty home mad circle jig(scrap mdf) I made my first pass, then fliped the whole sheet over and m,ade my second pass, the whole time it was firm and flat on my temp work bench(2x4 1/2" think mdf on mymsaw horses) worked great, did not have to worry abotu the bottom dropping out and a router falling to the floor.


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## fallbrookchris (Feb 13, 2009)

I use a Skil 1823 3/4hp plunge router that I got off E-bay for $40; I have actually had to buy 2 because the first one only lasted me about a couple of months due to changing bits a few hundred times and wearing out the "fingers" that grab the bit

I was also able to get 50 high quality router bits off E-bay for ~$50, they came in a wooden display case with labels, before getting the set of 50 bits I would just buy the Bosh bits about $25-$30 each

the most important thing other than good router bits is a good circle jig/guide, spend the money, they are great and make it almost impossible to screw up

the only time I would spend hundreds of dollars on a router would be if I was a professional who is going to be using a router everyday for years, since I only use my router to cut holes for speakers and flush the edges of a speaker box if I don't get the edges perfect I see no reason to spend more than ~$40 every 18+ months on a "new" router I buy off E-bay

definitely check out E-bay for routers, I highly suggest the Skil 1823 because its cheap and gets the job done, E-bay is also great for router bits, I got 50 high quality bits for the price of 2 Bosch bits at my local hardware store


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## arw01 (Nov 24, 2010)

I picked up a Bosch 1618EVS for $120 shipped several years back from one of my woodworking forums. Personal preference is the cry once and be done, figuring that the tools will outlast me (which will be a long time yet) and go onto my son should he have the interest still at that point.

Rocker has the Porter Cable fixed bases fairly often (as does craigslist), and a one place system with dust collection capabilities. The amount of dust a router can churn out is amazing. Worth the extra $35-$40 for the plate, and the dust hookups.

Now how did you achieve the angle on the mdf rings? Sand them down afterword, or rig up a ramp set up or??

I would think two sets of rotating rings like that would allow you to make a whole lot of minor axis adjustments in a hurry for your doors in the tuning phase.


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## briansz (Feb 5, 2008)

The 1618EVS is just a wonderful router. Much nicer than my 1-1/2 HP or 3-1/2HP Porter Cables or the older 1603/1604 Bosch units. I got mine on Craig's with the edge guide for about $60 from a guy that was picking up and moving to South America because of the lousy economy. Love that machine, I leave the 3-1/2HP beast on the router table, 1-1/2HP P/C on the circle jig, Bosch 1603 on a flush-cutting jig, and use the 1618 for all my freehand work. Quiet, powerful, precise.


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## Mr Marv (Aug 19, 2005)

arw01 said:


> I picked up a Bosch 1618EVS for $120 shipped several years back from one of my woodworking forums. Personal preference is the cry once and be done, figuring that the tools will outlast me (which will be a long time yet) and go onto my son should he have the interest still at that point.
> 
> Rocker has the Porter Cable fixed bases fairly often (as does craigslist), and a one place system with dust collection capabilities. The amount of dust a router can churn out is amazing. Worth the extra $35-$40 for the plate, and the dust hookups.
> 
> ...


The ramp with skis on the router is safest and for smaller angled rings I use other methods but I won't describe them here because it can be unsafe without the proper tools/jigs/experience.



briansz said:


> The 1618EVS is just a wonderful router. Much nicer than my 1-1/2 HP or 3-1/2HP Porter Cables or the older 1603/1604 Bosch units. I got mine on Craig's with the edge guide for about $60 from a guy that was picking up and moving to South America because of the lousy economy. Love that machine, I leave the 3-1/2HP beast on the router table, 1-1/2HP P/C on the circle jig, Bosch 1603 on a flush-cutting jig, and use the 1618 for all my freehand work. Quiet, powerful, precise.


I've been using Porter Cable routers for 20 plus years but recently bought the Bosch 1617evs combo kit for my new circle jig. I found that the dust collection port coming out of the post on my PC 890 worked better on the circle jig however the Bosch is overall nicer than the 890 IMO. I also bought the little Bosch Colt 1 HP variable speed router which is great for smaller profiles using only one hand (much more comfortable to hold as well as quieter than my PC laminate trimmers and I keep a 1/16" roundover bit in that one for quick easing of edges) and I may replace my D-handle PC 691 with the Bosch 1618evs as the D handle seems more ergonomic and it has a MUCH better height adjustment. BTW, it looks like you also belong to the club that would rather just buy another router and leave it set up for a specific task than to change bits/setups.


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## ALL4SQ (Mar 28, 2009)

How about a jig saw mounted to a router table? 
I just noticed Rockwell has something called a blade runner with a circle cutter attachment that works up to 18 inches. 

I'm pretty sure this wouldn't work for industrial use but for us weekend guys it might work out pretty good. My only problem with my Router is the major mess I make when cutting out rings. The Fine router dust gets everywhere. 
A vaccum attachment for my router would help but its time to either buy a new router or try something different. I think i'm going to give the blade runner a try.

Here is the website link: Rockwell BladeRunner 

Link to Video: U-Tube Circle cutter option video

U-Tube Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TThrIsIYObY&feature=player_embedded











Circle Cutter attachment.


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## zql8tr (Feb 27, 2011)

Craftsman pro router with a Jasper circle jig, perfect every time!


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Dad's router (forgot model and make right now, I want to say dewalt?), and jasper jig.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

a router that I return to walmart when done.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Dad's router (forgot model and make right now, I want to say dewalt?), and jasper jig.


Nice work!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Thanks, hopefully itll be in the car soon. The damn things heavy, so getting it aimed and stable is harder then if I had gone a little more minimalist. Gotta pick up some plumbers strap tomorrow, since the epoxy and wood dowels failed on me.


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## n.russell (Jul 27, 2011)

Dremel works the best


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## Schizm (Jun 12, 2011)

Mr Marv said:


> Thanks (18 years as a cabinetmaker gives me a bit of an advantage )
> 
> For the last 18 years I have strictly used Porter Cable routers (and sanders). The one I use for rings is actually a laminate trimmer (model 7310) with a simple jig I made. I like this one for baffles because it is not much bigger than a dremel tool making it easy to handle but it's a lot more powerful.



any chance of getting you, or anyone else, to post pics of their circle cutting router jigs? i'd love to see how you went about it.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

I was bending putting a screw in the middle and bending a piece of coat hanger to use as a compass, then I'd cut it out with a jigsaw. 
But I just received my Jasper jig this week, so no more of that nonsense! 

BTW, how does the jasper jig do with the small radius rings? I'm a bit worried about it.


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

I took a piece of scrap wood and cut half an inch out of the middle. Screw it to the center of what I'm cutting and screw the router to it and there's perfect circles everytime.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Fricasseekid said:


> I was bending putting a screw in the middle and bending a piece of coat hanger to use as a compass, then I'd cut it out with a jigsaw.
> But I just received my Jasper jig this week, so no more of that nonsense!
> 
> BTW, how does the jasper jig do with the small radius rings? I'm a bit worried about it.


they make a few different ones, but I think they get down to less than a 1" diameter hole.

I saw this the other day, this is pure genius.!

DIY circle cutting jig for your router - YouTube


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

I have the larger one that goes from like 18 1/4" down to like 2 1/2" or something like that. But for any diameter under about 4" it seems I would have to turn the router over and turn the wood by hand. That seems a bit dangerous.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Fricasseekid said:


> I have the larger one that goes from like 18 1/4" down to like 2 1/2" or something like that. But for any diameter under about 4" it seems I would have to turn the router over and turn the wood by hand. That seems a bit dangerous.


you should always cut inner diameter holes first, then cut out the piece. (outer diameter) that way you have a large enough piece of wood to clamp.

if you have a router table, you can do what you are saying safely enough.  you just need an adjustable pin to guide the piece.


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

Black und Decker ruther, plus three no name ruthers, so no need for non stop changing ruther bits.
For cutting I'm using hand jig saw.

If I need MDF plates for sub box, then I order exact pre cut MDF. I only predrill holes for screws, make all cutouts and bracing, hole for port and assemble it.


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## Fricasseekid (Apr 19, 2011)

minbari said:


> you should always cut inner diameter holes first, then cut out the piece. (outer diameter) that way you have a large enough piece of wood to clamp.
> 
> if you have a router table, you can do what you are saying safely enough. you just need an adjustable pin to guide the piece.


If you cut your inner diameter holes all the way through first then you lose your center where the guide pin goes.


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

Fricasseekid said:


> If you cut your inner diameter holes all the way through first then you lose your center where the guide pin goes.


clamp the work to a disposable piece. then run the pin all the way through both pieces.

cut the inner diameter, disassemble, remove the center. (dont unclamp or you will lose the center)

reassemble, and cut the outer diameter

unclamp, voila!


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## bardo (Oct 12, 2011)

minbari said:


> clamp the work to a disposable piece. then run the pin all the way through both pieces.
> 
> cut the inner diameter, disassemble, remove the center. (dont unclamp or you will lose the center)
> 
> ...


what he said--or just use 4 drywall screws--i find clamps sometimes get in the way..

see my stack of rings / mess below:


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

that's how I routhering rings from one pice of MDF...it is very handy to have a lot of different routher bites

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...lery/143886-alfa-romeo-gt-3-2-v6-lbaudio.html


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

*Mounting Speakers*

Is mounting the woofer speaker (front door) to the sheet metal with screws acceptable installation practice?


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

I use ( and sell). 
These


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

Thanks for sharing.

What is the shinny material around the mounted speaker?


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## 12vTools (Jan 15, 2009)

Dynamat was on the panel beneath the rings. If thats what you meant


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

I can hear considerable sound from outside the door. Is this expected after three layers of dynamat and a quality MLV?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

The speaker is playing into the door right?

sent from my phone using digital farts


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

The speaker cone is in the cabin. Should I still hear sound outside the car with all the sound treatment?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

But its mounted in the door correct? The backwave goes into the door, so yes you will hear it outside

sent from my phone using digital farts


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## SouthernSlam2013 (Jun 27, 2013)

minbari said:


> But its mounted in the door correct? The backwave goes into the door, so yes you will hear it outside
> 
> sent from my phone using digital farts


Yes, the speaker is mounted correctly. I just expected not to hear the speaker sound after all the dynamat and MLV in the door. 

Should I use the product Blackhole to better absorb the reverse waves? Will ths enhance the tonality of the speaker sound into the cabin?


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## minbari (Mar 3, 2011)

At freqs that a door speaker produces, you would need an absorbing product a foot thick.

The sound will radiate through the glass too, you are going to hear it outside the car, just live with it


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## Rs roms (Jul 12, 2012)

The screws holding the midbass drivers keep on getting loose every week or so, how to optimally tackle this.


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Rs roms said:


> The screws holding the midbass drivers keep on getting loose every week or so, how to optimally tackle this.


What is the midbass screwed into? If you're using an MDF baffle, I prefer to used threaded inserts, like this:

Threaded Insert PK 100 | eBay

Drill holes in the MDF corresponding to your mounting holes, dab a bit of wood glue on the external threads of the inserts, and screw them in with an Allen key. Get some bolts with the same thread pattern and some little washers and lock washers, and call it a day.


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## Rs roms (Jul 12, 2012)

mikey7182 said:


> What is the midbass screwed into? If you're using an MDF baffle, I prefer to used threaded inserts, like this:
> 
> Threaded Insert PK 100 | eBay
> 
> Drill holes in the MDF corresponding to your mounting holes, dab a bit of wood glue on the external threads of the inserts, and screw them in with an Allen key. Get some bolts with the same thread pattern and some little washers and lock washers, and call it a day.


It was screwed onto MDF obviously. But these inserts will do the job nicely, same as g0a posted the picture above.


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Rs roms said:


> It was screwed onto MDF obviously. But these inserts will do the job nicely, same as g0a posted the picture above.


I'm not sure how obvious it was, considering people use everything from factory mounts to aftermarket ABS brackets to bare sheet metal.  

The inserts g0a pictured are for sheet metal, and will not work with MDF, as they are grooved for a pressure fit rather than threaded to seat into wood. Hope they work out for you. The ones I posted I've been using for years with great results. Cheap and easy.


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## Rs roms (Jul 12, 2012)

mikey7182 said:


> I'm not sure how obvious it was, considering people use everything from factory mounts to aftermarket ABS brackets to bare sheet metal.
> 
> The inserts g0a pictured are for sheet metal, and will not work with MDF, as they are grooved for a pressure fit rather than threaded to seat into wood. Hope they work out for you. *The ones I posted I've been using for years with great results. Cheap and easy*.


I am gonna grab them from the local hardware store, my spacer is only 0.5" thick though


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## mikey7182 (Jan 16, 2008)

Rs roms said:


> I am gonna grab them from the local hardware store, my spacer is only 0.5" thick though


That's where I get mine too... I just meant that that's the style I use. The 1/4" x 20 are a bit overkill unless you're using them for subs. A nice #8-32 works great for midbass. I get them locally at ACE Hardware and they are less than 1/2" deep.


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## HiloDB1 (Feb 25, 2011)

I voted other. Although it is technically a router but I have a CNC machine I use to cut most of my stuff. As long as it fits on the table I use the CNC


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