# C5 Corvette Sound Control/Audio Overhaul



## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

What's going on gentleman? Just started an install in my 97' Corvette. I've been collecting parts for over a year and a half and am close to doing all the work. Heads/Cam/Headers/Clutch..... Yet here I am stripping the interior out of my car on a whim to start the stereo install!?!?!?!
Anyway, Ever since I started driving some 30 years ago, I've always had to put a system in it! Had a 66' Mustang Fastback(Shelby Clone) that I installed 2 or the original 12" Punch subwoofers. Back in the early/mid 80's.... you were the man if you had subs! haha
Anyway, have had most of this gear sitting here new for 15+ years. Finally gonna use it. Or some of it!
Here's the car. Those are polished HRE's. This was with them plasti dipped black. Have since peeled it off and back to the polished wheel look.



First off, interior stripped. Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro, Overkill Pro, & Overkill will be used(over used).


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)




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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Used some 3/8" mdf for amp mounts. Glued and bolted down. Then covered with the Damplifier. 




Back wall


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Oh man those kicker components bring back memories. That nd25 tweeter is still one of my favs. Kill build so far !


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

optimaprime said:


> Oh man those kicker components bring back memories. That nd25 tweeter is still one of my favs. Kill build so far !


Too funny. I was just talking with shawnk on another thread about them and saying that it was the tweeters that I loved about them. We both had the original Resolutions, the ones before these. As soon as these came out I knew I had to have them. I bought these two sets plus a set of the matching RMB8 midbass drivers. 
Just not sure how I'm gonna run this system yet.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Off topic, but I have a set of the RS4, RMB6 and RMB8. I've never used them in anything, but I can't bring myself to get rid of them either!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

DaveRulz said:


> Off topic, but I have a set of the RS4, RMB6 and RMB8. I've never used them in anything, but I can't bring myself to get rid of them either!


I forgot they made the RMB6's. I didn't realize they made a 4" set of components. Thought it was the RS5's and RS6's. Use em'!!!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

I liked the ones before the resolutions better but the tweeter never changed.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

For those with a C5, wanted to share this with you. If you pull up the passenger foot well fusebox, and the control module that is mounted next to it..... it will reveal a huge cavity behind it which is just the bare metal firewall.. There is no factory dampening in there and tapping it revealed how badly it needs it. I was able to use a couple scrap pieces of Damplifier to treat the firewall for vibration. On the left side behind the ? control module(whatever it is), I was able to layer 2 pieces of Luxury Liner Pro and 2 pieces of Overkill Pro. That's a good 1.5" thick and fills that void nice. The side with the fuse box can't be that thick. The fuse box has to fit into a slot to mount so you have to be a bit more conservative with the material. I just trimmed a piece of the Luxury Liner Pro to fit the spot and the box mounted back up. I only showed this as I'm sure it's a spot most won't bother with, yet it was simple to get to and is an area that I'm sure lets in a bunch of noise.


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

You're right. I never thought to look back there and address it. Not sure if I will. Was it relatively easy to remove and replace the components?


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Very easy. The module on the left requires no tools. Unplug the three plugs and get it out of the way. The fuse box has one 8mm I think it was. Wiggle it out and then just work around it.
I think if you took the few minutes to pop the fuse box out and tap the firewall with your finger nail, you're gonna see it's a little acoustic chamber in there. I'm glad I looked.


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## colled96 (Feb 2, 2010)

Soldier on brother...I'm following you....


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

colled96 said:


> Soldier on brother...I'm following you....


Thanks.
I'm stuck making decisions on the system right now. 
First off is the brains of the system.
Keep the JVC head and add the RF 3sixty.3 for my dsp???
Replace the JVC with the Pioneer P99rs???

Second, not enough room behind the grilles on my doors to fit the 8", 6", and tweet. The factory setup has an 8" and a 3-4" and is pretty much blocked by the door panel. I still want to run midbass drivers and run everything active. So now I'm considering buying another set of midbass drivers, but 6.5" drivers. I'm pretty sure I can tuck them better so that they both fire out the grille.
Which brings another decision. My components can run with the tweeter mounted in the mid like a coaxial. Or I can make some tweeter pods for up on the dash/a pillar. Or I can do both as I have extra tweeters.
Opinions on two sets of tweeters???


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

optimaprime said:


> Oh man those kicker components bring back memories. That nd25 tweeter is still one of my favs. Kill build so far !


I was thinking the same thing! I loved my Kicker Resolution components.

Jay


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Thanks.
> I'm stuck making decisions on the system right now.
> First off is the brains of the system.
> Keep the JVC head and add the RF 3sixty.3 for my dsp???
> ...


Brother, I hope you have your flame suit handy. Two sets of tweets in your ride on this forum is somewhere near the level of having the anti-christ as a room mate.

I was in the same situation as you. Wanted an 8" in the door and a smaller mid. I just didn't see how it would work. I am going with a 6.5 and a 3 but I am pretty sure that a 6.5 and a 4 would work.

I'm waiting like others to see how your's comes out.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Made some cardboard circles in 6" , 6.75", and 8". Went out and played around seeing how and what I could configure behind the grille opening on the door panels. Best option is to just rebuild the lower half of the door panel. Then I can put exactly what I want in. But I'm not doing that until I can afford to have the doors recovered in leather. I'm planning an interior makeover at some point, but it's not now. 
I love the Resolution tweeters so I'm going to glass them into pods that will sit right where the dash and A pillar meets. The resolution mid drivers are good for midrange but lack the punch I wanted 3 ways for. So I think I will start looking for a better midrange/midbass driver to work with those 1" silk tweeters. 
I'm thinking a 6.5" - 7" mid. 
I went from having 2 sets of components and a pair of subs that are all good and new, to now needing new subs and now a new set of mids! Damn audio bug got me again!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Got all my wire and interconnect ordered from Knukonceptz so while I wait for it I'm trying to get all the deadening done. That way when the wire shows up, I can run it all and get my interior back in so I can drive the damn thing! At that point I will have to finish the amp area and decide if I'm going to run different speakers all around. 
I have a pair of 10" DA MacDaddy subs and two sets of the Kicker Resolutions for front and rear components. If I go this route, I will be able to run the fronts active, the rear passive. 
Or I could buy a new set of 3-ways and be able to go all active with those with no rears. As far as the subs go, Keep the 10's or go with a new pair of 8"s. 
Choices....
Either way, got one of the wheel humps covered with Overkill(CCF) and Luxury Liner Pro(MLV). Every surface is covered with the Damplifier and CCF or MLV. I can't wait to drive this thing. Lots of weight but it is a fair trade off. Should make a huge difference because Vettes are f'n loud with road noise. 
The doors will be next, there is 0% treatment in them from the factory!

Used all the scrap pieces of Luxury Liner and CCF to fill the center well up to where the bottom of the rack will be.


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## vwdave (Jun 12, 2013)

I like how your build is looking so far. I remember liking the macdaddy subs back in the day. I really wanted to buy them back then I couldn't afford them. I can't wait to see the pictures of them.

How are you running your ground? Is it going back to the battery? I remember that on the corvettes that I've worked on I've had a rough time finding a good ground.

Also, I think GM left out lots of sound damping material because what they use works on sheet metal, and would be a waste of money, time and weight to use it on fiberglass and plastic.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

They leave it off because of weight. Fuel economy, performance...

As far as the ground... with 3 monster amps, it was the frame or nothing. 
I already had my tail lights out to gain access to the back wall for some of the other work I've done. I bored a hole out the rear of the tub big enough to fit a 1/0 gauge ground wire. Sealed up nicely with a rubber grommet.
Looking through the inner pass tail light opening, there is a wire harness passing over the frame with two push in harness anchors. I just removed one of them and re-adjusted the wire harness so only one anchor was needed. Good to go. I just slipped my drill through the tail light and bored out the hole in the frame a bit. Then tapped it for a 13mm bolt. Good to go. Waiting on the new 1/0 cable to run it but you get the idea.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Just to clarify... that is behind the rear facia. The frame can be seen through the tail light openings.
And yes, I will remove the paint before mounting. lol
And I am leaning towards running some 8"s. I will post up some pics of the MacDaddys though.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Another piece showed up today!!!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

My wire and interconnects showed up. Now I can lay some cable!



Their 4/0 gauge next to my 1/0!!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Go the 1/0 ran from the battery to the amp rack area. Interconnects ran. Remote wire, Backup Cam lead wire. Need to pick up some more 16 or 14 gauge just to run for future options/upgrades/ whatever. I need a longer rca for one of my amps so when I order it I will pick up an optical as well so it's ran for a future headunit upgrade. Back working so little progress like this is a lot with the lack of free time I'm having! 
Need to recoup some $ so I can order some subs and maybe new 3-ways or just some midbass drivers.

Finally starting to look like an audio install!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

This nice build so for man love the mix of old and new stuff. I really dig the neon color wire ! I ordered 20 ft of there yellow 8 gauge .


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Got my 3sixty.3 remote and PG voltage display mounted. Whipped it up out of a plastic straight edge. It's a temp solution to get me going. Want to see how it feels and works before having a nice one made. I tossed a couple toggles in for the amp rack LEDs and maybe a fan switch. Although I think I need 2 toggles for the LEDs and maybe a fan speed controller. Once I have it all figured out, will dial in the pattern, arrangement of it all and send it to Austin Barrett and have him make me a sick cnc'd billet piece. He made my Z51 badges and they turned out sweet. But for a quick fix, it will work for now. Even this piece covered in some thin black suede wouldn't be bad.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

optimaprime said:


> This nice build so for man love the mix of old and new stuff. I really dig the neon color wire ! I ordered 20 ft of there yellow 8 gauge .


I liked that yellow they have. Had a hard time picking the colors. Their orange is sweet as well. Like those pastel looking matt finishes they have. Wish they had smaller gauge as well. 16/14 gauge for remote power/ground wire.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Thanks.
> I'm stuck making decisions on the system right now.
> First off is the brains of the system.
> Keep the JVC head and add the RF 3sixty.3 for my dsp???
> ...


I'm doing an install on my friend's C5 vert. I cut a baffle from 1/2" HDPE to fit the opening. An 8" Morel (MW-220) fits just fine (the baffle gets a little thin near the bottom) and a Ground Zero Plutonium (GZP) series midrange. GZP tweets are going to get glassed on the pillars.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Fitting them isn't the problem. It was the grille opening on the door panel. The angle of the opposite side of you is fine and you can clearly see both speakers, but the panel nearest you is another story. Looking down at the speakers nearest you, you can't see any of the mid. I'm also 6'3", maybe that's a factor as well. Do you have a build thread going??? Would love to check it out.


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## SWINE (Aug 29, 2008)

subscribed! moar pics please!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Finished off the Luxury Liner Pro on the passenger side. Replaced the factory matting on the inside of the carpet with the Overkill Pro like I did on the drivers side, and got the carpet back in. Shocking how much treatment I was able to put under the carpet. Excited to hear the difference it makes. Should be night and day. 
There's some more stuff to run, like speaker wire, but I want to get the car driving again and work on it from there. 
Also got the headunit mount wired up and ready to mount. Not sure where to pull the power from so that it's controlled by the dimmer.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Fitting them isn't the problem. It was the grille opening on the door panel. The angle of the opposite side of you is fine and you can clearly see both speakers, but the panel nearest you is another story. Looking down at the speakers nearest you, you can't see any of the mid. I'm also 6'3", maybe that's a factor as well. Do you have a build thread going??? Would love to check it out.


No build thread yet, but I'm posting pics to my Flikr account as we go. Build thread will go up as we get closer to being finished.

Yours is progressing nicely. Tuned in to watch it unfold.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Today was brutal. !00 at least. Decided to get the car back together so I can start driving it again. Need to order my speaker wire, an optical for future proofing, an RJ9 cable for my voltage display, figure out my acc relay system and get it ordered... still a bunch of stuff to run but I will do it later. I at least wanted to get the front together so I can drive so I tried to put the head unit in. 
Guess I never checked it!  :behead:
No way it was fitting. It was hitting the upper brace. Thought only the double din crowd had to remove the brace???? So, in the 100+ heat, I struggled getting the brace out. My sawsall had a dull blade. To frustrated to go up and get more. Tried a hand held hacksaw. Nope! About 15 different drill bits!!! What the F are those rivets made of??? I drilled out about 60 frame rivits on my 46' International Harvester and don't think I got this frustrated! And they were far worse. But it came out. All is great in the world.




So all good so I thought. Radio still won't slide all the way in! There is this damn plastic hook holding the climate control vacumn lines. Off with the hook!!! Should be good to go after that right?!?!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

So it just so happens that the F'n JVC headunit I have has one of it's harnesses coming out of the upper edge of the backside and it happened to hit right where that hook was. Well it still hits even when the hook is removed! The damn receiver is just too man long. 
I can snug it up to the back wall enough to bolt in place, but the pressure forces the back of the unit downward which angles the face of it up. No way that will flush up to the center console. So I stuck a piece of 1/8" steel across two of the side openings which happened to be exactly where it needs to be! The sun was shining on me! Hot as heck but I'll take it. I put some CCF on the top for the back of the unit to sit on and it positions it perfect. When I finish off the wiring, I will reposition the original top brace back in to support the head unit. At least now I know how it will fit and sit perfect with the console. 






Need to replace the two toggles, one already broke.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Not sure where to pull the power from so that it's controlled by the dimmer.


To avoid possible ground loops, pull power and ground from your amp's distro blocks, treating the HU as if it were just another amp. Run the keyswitched power to activate relay to switch power from the fused distro to the HU's yellow power wire. The diode in the diagram prevents a high voltage spike from the relay coil from the ignition switch at turnoff. It's kind of annoying these aren't built in. Make sure to observe polarity with the diode and the relay coil or a self-critiquing moment will occur.










For the dimmer, many newer HU's have an automatic dimmer function so you may not need to bother. If not, you can tap the parking light switch.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

There are accessory leads in the Vette harness left unhooked by the factory. Most tap into those for the headunit without problems. I do plan to have a relay system though. I want the remote on lead out of the HU to trigger the relay. It will power up all the LEDs and other accessories like the PG fused distro block. It will also power up the 3sixty.3 which has delayed turn-ons for the 3 amps.
Want to find a relay setup that has everything built into it. Been trying to decipher this thread.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...cussion/162813-using-relay-turn-two-amps.html


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

You can have the remote turn-on from your HU trigger the DSP, then have the DSP's delayed turn-on trigger the relay to power up your amps, lighting, cooling fans, jacuzzi pumps, disco ball, etc. Just one relay does everything you need. Just use the diagram in my earlier post but for pin 85, connect it to the DSP's amp turn-on / pin 30 to the amp's remote turn on and your lighting. Like any other 12v power source, it's best to fuse it near the source to protect the wiring. From relay pin 30 (in my diagram), power can be distributed to each amp/accessory. Multi-slot blade-style fuse holders work well for this purpose.

8-slot mini fuse holder:
Amazon.com: HELLA H84960111 8-Way Lateral Single Fuse Box: Automotive

1: HU memory
2: HU switched (main power)
3: DSP
4: LED lighting
5: amp 1
6: amp 2
7: amp 3
8: USB charger


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

You have me all confused! lol
I like the idea of the HU remote on to the 3sixty.3. The delayed remote on to the relay. The relay would then power up all 3 amps, and one of those fuse strips, which would power up the acc's. My Dist blocks are in the back with the amps. I can pull power & ground from there for the relay. So what would be the schematic for that???


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> You have me all confused! lol
> I like the idea of the HU remote on to the 3sixty.3. The delayed remote on to the relay. The relay would then power up all 3 amps, and one of those fuse strips, which would power up the acc's. My Dist blocks are in the back with the amps. I can pull power & ground from there for the relay. So what would be the schematic for that???


Either to add or alleviate your confusion (hopefully the latter), here's a 2-relay setup to have your DSP switch on whatever accessories/lighting you want (relay 1) AND isolate your HU's power from the oem harness to kill any potential ground loops (relay 2). The aux fuse box is a safe way to have a single, convenient location near your main power distro. Use a fuse value for each circuit based on peak amperage at turnon.

I would assume many peeps don't fuse amp turnons and claim it's not necessary because of the low current. This is different though because a 30 amp relay can deliver... 30 amps from your main distro block which is enough to let the magic smoke out and make your day kind of lousy. Even for a single amp from the HU, I would run an inline fuse from the HU's harness. Maybe it would save the HU from needing repair and/or replacement if that wire ever grounded while it was hot. Easily worth the $2 expense and 3 minutes it takes to solder and apply shrink tubing.

Moving on...

You can easily choose how you want to power any accessory with this setup... always on, keyswitched, or DSP switched (via the HU). You can also easily change it later.

This is what I will be implementing in Dave's C5 and my Honda:


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Thanks for taking the time to do this. My brain was overheated yesterday. Was 104 here and our building is even hotter. Two questions. Which relays and do I still need the resistors? And am I to run a ground wire all the way back to the amp grounds for my HU? Always thought short ground everything??? I like those Hella fuse strips. Do they make one with a single input? The one I looked at had a seperate supply for each fuse.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Guess it's hot here again, that's 3 questions. Lol


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Thanks for taking the time to do this. My brain was overheated yesterday. Was 104 here and our building is even hotter.


I can relate... I did installation work all weekend on Dave's C5 in typical Oklahoma summer heat and had to reattach my OO's because I sweat them off at least twice. If it weren't for a pair of fans in my garage, it would have been unbearable. We got a nice cooloff today that's supposed to last through the week. I'm taking Thurs and Fri off to take advantage of it.



MAIDEN69 said:


> *Three* questions.  Which relays and do I still need the resistors?


No resistors are needed. A pair of these relays will work just fine:
12 VDC Tyco 5-Pin Relay SPDT 20/30A (Formerly Bosch)

To make wiring them easier, get a pair of relay sockets:
12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay

Diodes for preventing high voltage spikes going where they shouldn't:
1N4007 1A 1000V Diode

You can get those parts from a lot of places- I'm just using PE here for ease of reference. You can get the sockets with integrated diodes, but in my brief search for them, I wasn't impressed.



MAIDEN69 said:


> And am I to run a ground wire all the way back to the amp grounds for my HU? Always thought short ground everything???


Nothing wrong with a ground more than 2 inches, despite what is often taught as "the word" and not questioned. All wiring should be as short as possible but not at the expense of being practical or having a ground loop. What conducts better, your steel frame or some fine-stranded copper wire? If your amp's ground distro runs to a heavy bolt into the frame, for example. There is nothing wrong (and some prefer it) with running another ground from that same bolt or one next to it up to your battery. Most any amp kit has a short ground wire primarily to save money and you typically don't _need_ much. But yes- run your HU's ground to your amp's ground distro- 14g is plenty stout enough. Nevermind if your HU is also chassis grounded in the dash- treat it as if it were another amplifier in your setup. All components get hot/ground at the same location or ground loops and their associated problems will likely make themselves known.



MAIDEN69 said:


> I like those Hella fuse strips. Do they make one with a single input? The one I looked at had a seperate supply for each fuse.


Check out my diagram... for the fuse block, three of the inputs are ganged together to tap from the relay driven by your DSP. One is from the ignition sw ACC relay for your HU and the last 2 are ganged-banged together and tap into the hot side of your amp's distro for always-on power.

That's just one example of what you can do. If you want them all hot all the time or all hot just when your DSP says so, no problem. That's the sweet things about DIY, you get to have it your way.

To be easily reconfigurable, use female disconnect ends and then splice the wires on the other end as you see fit. Avoid using crimped connections as much as possible though (solder and shrink-tube is almost always better). If you do, please use the right size wire/connector and use dielectric grease before the crimp. The grease fills the air pockets and prevents moisture and corrosion.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

What about the Potter & Brumfield 40/30A relays? Model VF4-45F11
I have several of them. Think maybe out of a buddies car. Looks like the harnesses would fit them as well.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> What about the Potter & Brumfield 40/30A relays? Model VF4-45F11
> I have several of them. Think maybe out of a buddies car. Looks like the harnesses would fit them as well.


Yup, no problem. The pinout convention is the same.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Cool. Not that it saves me much $$$. lol Just wasn't sure if the 40/30A rating was too much. I will get the parts ordered up and get it configured. Once I do, I will run it by you to make sure I didn't screw it all up. haha Thanks again for the advice.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Cool. Not that it saves me much $$$. lol Just wasn't sure if the 40/30A rating was too much. I will get the parts ordered up and get it configured. Once I do, I will run it by you to make sure I didn't screw it all up. haha Thanks again for the advice.


Voltage is the "push" and current is the "flow rate." The current/amperage rating for the relays is for the max load they can handle, sorta like the tonnage rating of a truck. Switching on a couple amplifiers and some LED lighting might pull 2 or 3 amperes. While a 40A relay is a little overkill, there's nothing wrong with it. It's a bit like using a 3/4 ton truck to pull a jet-ski where you could just as easily use a 4-banger S-10.

This 10A relay would be perfectly acceptable to use:
NTE R25-11D10-12 10A 12 VDC DPDT Epoxy Sealed PCB Relay


In this application, it's just easier to use a common automotive-style relay since they have a mounting tab for easy mounting to a panel and with a socket and they can easily be plugged in/removed. And you already have some... 

Where you can really take advantage of a relay is when you want to wire up a set of high powered fog lights or something similar. You wouldn't run the heavy 12 gauge main power wire off the battery to a switch in the dash and then to the lights. You just wire the switch to ground with 18 gauge and out to a relay near the lights or the battery and the relay does the heavy lifting with a minimal run of the 12 gauge wire.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Hey Gadget, trying to get my parts list together. Is it easier to just get the relays with the built in diode? I only ask as I'm not sure where the diode actually get's soldered in. Is it directly to the relay pins or is it inline on the HU remote on lead? 
Trying to figure it all out as I plan to build it all into a custom chassis with screw terminals for the connections. Just still unsure on the install of the diode(s)


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> Hey Gadget, trying to get my parts list together. Is it easier to just get the relays with the built in diode? I only ask as I'm not sure where the diode actually get's soldered in. Is it directly to the relay pins or is it inline on the HU remote on lead?
> Trying to figure it all out as I plan to build it all into a custom chassis with screw terminals for the connections. Just still unsure on the install of the diode(s)


The relay sockets with integrated diodes, at least the ones I found anyways, were wired for a ground trigger. This application uses a 12v+ trigger.

It's ideal if you wire the diode right at the socket. I need to wire a pair up for Dave's C5, which I might do today. I'll snap pics as I go and post them here. 

Take the diode ends and form a small loop- just big enough to run the end of some 18g wire (you only need about 4 inches per side) and solder. Avoid excess heat else you will kill the diode- a small clamp on the lead between the solder joint and the diode will act as a heatsink. The diode leads are flexible, but too much flexing will cause them to fail. Cover the diode and it's ends with shrink-tube. Mark it so you know which end to connect to the hot/ground side of your relay coil- (use a red wire or cover with red shrink-tube on that side). The arrow >| symbol should point towards the hot side.

If you can release the connector from the relay socket by giving the locking tab a little push, wrap the wire from your diode around it and solder it on. Avoid adding too much bulk since you want that connector to slip back into the socket and lock back in. The stealth option is to solder the diode leads directly to the relay socket connectors (85/86). Cover the diode with shrink-tube first to avoid having exposed hotness. If pulling the connectors out of the socket is a no-go, then just splice the diode's wires with the relay coil's wires as close as practical to the relay.

If you get the diode polarity wrong, your DSP's amp turnon will go to ground, the relay will not trigger, and the amps will not turn on. Assuming the right size fuse, your DSP's turnon inline fuse that you installed should do its job. Done correctly, everything will work as it should and when your turn the system off, the high voltage stored in the relay coil will be absorbed by the diode instead of backfeeding into your DSP. It could be that your DSP turnon circuit is robust and be all honey-badger about such things but why chance it? It's a simple, low-cost preventive measure.

If your car does not have a retained accessory power feature (radio stays on until you open the door), you might also consider wiring a small capacitor in parallel with your relay coil for the HU ignition key trigger. The capacitor will store a charge when the trigger is on (key in ACC/IGN). When you turn the key off, instead of the system shutting down and possibly getting a turnoff pop, the capacitor will discharge through the relay coil and keep the system on for a few seconds. Once the capacitor's charge is depleted, the relay de-energizes, opens the circuit and shuts down your system. The few-seconds of hang time varies with the size of the capacitor, but something in the 1000 microfarad range should be fine which are similar in size to a C battery. You can experiment with the size to see what suits you.... at least, that's what _she_ said.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Actually have some free time to work on this. 93* out. So while hot, it's not scorching like it has been in NorCal.
Been since 02' when I last worked with fiberglass. This should be interesting. First mistake of the day. Forgot to grab a bunch of chip brushes!!! So off to HF. Need a cheap drill anyway. My last Dewalt battery crapped out so I don't have use of my drill, skill saw, or sawsall. Batteries are $80. BS! I will end up buying a new drill and get the battery that way.
So the project is to try to fit and angle both the 6.5" midbass and the 3" mid so that I have direct site of all 4 drivers through the grilles on the door panels.
The opposite door panel from the side you are sitting on, you have a full view of the entire baffle. No problems. But the near door panel, the steep angle blocks the upper portion of the baffle from both sight and from the speaker grille. The 3" midrange will simply be blocked. You can still see the 6.5" through the grille. 
So, I will need to have the 3" partially floating over the 6.5" so that I can see both drivers. I will bring the 3" mids out as close to the grille and angled up and back towards the seats. To do so it will kind of overhang the 6.5" midbass. Not sure what that will do to the midbass frequencies. But...... Whipped out the baffles and rings last weekend. The rings I made from 2 layers of 3/8" mdf glued together. I'm gonna use some wood dowels and hot glue to position the rings on the baffles. Then glass over that. The 3" will be enclosed in it's own chamber on the baffle. The midbass will be open into the door. 
Went to Taps Plastic and picked up the supplies. A yard of Grade A weave. A yard of chopped mat. And I already had a roll of 4" weave. I should have bought more for the sub enclosures but will get it if I need it. 
Anyone ever use this resin before?


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Got the passenger side started.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)




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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)




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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Filler/Resin Milkshake for the inside


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Still fits!




Since they will be hidden, I'm not gonna get them paint ready smooth. I just shot them with Plasti-Dip to keep them waterproof.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

That's awesome! I considered glassing a midrange enclosure... what I would consider ideal, but I ended up using a foam "baffle" for a 6.5". Better than nothing for sure, but nowhere as nice as your solution.


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## strakele (Mar 2, 2009)

Wow, very nicely done!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Thanks. It's a stout little bastard. 
I would really love to smooth them out for paint but it would be a waste of valuable time. 
The sub enclosures will need the extra work. Wish I was retired so I could just knock it all out!!!


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

MAIDEN69 said:


> I would really love to smooth them out for paint but it would be a waste of valuable time.
> The sub enclosures will need the extra work. Wish I was retired so I could just knock it all out!!!


I hear ya brutha. I "broke ground" on Dave's C5 back in May. Finally got the HU installed this past Sunday night. It's functional and making sweet sounds finally. Only able to work on it on the weekends here and there, but oh well. Can only do what you can do.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Mine compared to the factory Bose. My drivers could have easily mounted in the factory Bose bracket and it already has the sealed mid. 
Not that I would have though.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)




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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Finally ordered my speaker wire. Went with the Knukonceptz Kord cable. 10awg for the subs, 12awg for the midbass, 14awg for the midrange and tweeters. Not cheap!
Still need to order the subs and I need to buy some 8" mdf rings to fab my enclosures. My circle cutting setup isn't accurate enough for what I'm wanting out of my enclosures. I have found several 8" rings that are recessed/beveled. Just not sure if the SD-2 8's will fit in them.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Made some easy water guards for the midbass drivers. Used some foam visors from the crafts section at Walmart. Less than a buck each and made for an easy solution. Glued them in place and sealed them up with plastidip. 
Then started back on the door. Was able to cover the entire inner skin with the 1/2" Overkill pro Then proceeded to cover a bunch of the backside of the outer skin, as well as a bunch of the bottom and sides. The inside of the door panel is basically a CCF chamber. 
I decided to pull the stryrofoam from the backside of my door panels. I'm going to reinforce the panel with a layer of fiberglass. Then I will hang a solid sheet of the (MLV) luxury Liner on the outer skin. Cut out for the speakers to peak through. Thinsulate Acoustic would be sweet but too much $$$. I will fill in any other voids with more of the CCF. These doors should be dead silent other than the glass which rattles under certain conditions. I'm sure I will be addressing them. Now if only the drivers door was this far along!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

back of the door panel with the glass cut and layed out. Ran out of light. Back at it tomorrow.


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## REGULARCAB (Sep 26, 2013)

I have often wondered why more people dont glass in or spray foam those big voids in the door cards. Just be sure to rough up that plastic like a mofo so you get some good adhesion.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Avoided the connection area of the upper and lower half of the panel. I'm going to separate them so that I can recover the panel with better material. The vinyl is about 80% pulled from the panel as it is. 


Here you can see how bad the vinyl is.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

For the OCD crowd. These are the anchors for the speaker pods. I wanted them to clamp down onto the door but still be isolated from it by CCF. So I cut up some mdf and used T-nuts. Each one fits in a certain spot. Not needed and something nobody will every know about, but I will ; )


Now for a layer of Luxury Liner Pro (MLV)
I used the Xmas Tree style push pins to hold it in place. Just drilled a few holes. This was all after I started taping layers of material on the panel and test fitting the panel to see how things would fit.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

I honestly can't believe what a difference this made. Drove around to run some errands after I hung the sheet of Luxury Liner on the door. No door panel on. Unbelievable difference! Can't wait to do the other door!

Now I need to mount the pod and trim the Luxury Liner around it. Just waiting for my order of speaker wire so I can button up this door.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Just ordered a pair of the SD-2 8"s. Couldn't wait for the new models to get finished. Hopefully the SD-3's will mount in the same cutouts or at least be close enough to work if I upgrade down the road. 
I also ordered some custom mounting rings for the enclosures I'm going to be fiberglassing soon. There is a seller on fleabay who worked with me, allowing me to design and provide the specs of what I wanted. I usually just cut my own but I wanted precision cut rings as I plan to paint them to match my car and no way could I get them perfect with my setup. The seller sells rings cut out with a cnc and had a pair close to what I needed but not quite right. After several messages with the specs I wanted that are built for the SD-2 8 subs, he created a listing for them. Not cheap but I got exactly what I wanted. The seller is "avpriority" if anyone happens to need cnc'd parts. He did say he has no problem doing custom work and was fine with me sharing his info.
Here are the rings and a link to the item page.
Custom Cut Dual Layer MDF Ring Set | eBay


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Got my cnc'd sub rings, speaker wire, and subs today. Started off great until I inspected the subs! One of the subs looks like they F'd up mounting the spider in the basket. They didn't seat it properly. Awesome. Hopefully it will be an easy replacement process.



And I will say it again, Knukonceptz is the only wire I will ever buy again. Even this basic speaker wire is top notch. Their jacketing looks great and feels so nice to the touch. I was really happy with their power wire I got earlier but now I'm really sold. 
This is their 14awg, 12awg, & 10awg Kord Kable.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

It's a tight fit. A bit of sanding should solve it. But should seat dead even.


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Been slacking on the install. Just simply took a break and have been busy with other crap. Got my replacement sub so I'm good there. 
Finished my passenger door today. Just need to put some CCF on the back of the door panel and mount it back up. I'm going to wait to recover the panels until after I finish the install.


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## Gadget01 (Oct 20, 2008)

Looks great man!


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## KyleMDunn (Jan 27, 2009)

Your doors are a thing of beauty! Excellent work!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

KyleMDunn said:


> Your doors are a thing of beauty! Excellent work!


Thanks. That is only one though. lol Let's hope the other turns out as nice!!!


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

Ran the speaker wire for the front 3ways. Have the drivers door just about done. The pod for the drivers side turned out just as nice as the first one I did. 

2 runs of 12awg, 4 runs of 14awg. Lots to tuck!


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## reath1 (Apr 15, 2014)

Where are you at on this Maiden?


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## MAIDEN69 (Jun 23, 2014)

reath1 said:


> Where are you at on this Maiden?


Thanks for checking in. I've been busy building subs for other people. A monster home sub for a client of mine, and a small sub for a buddies truck. I picked up new door panels and need to get the drivers door finished and install the new panels. Then move onto the rear hatch area. I've started building a new deck for the back area. I cut out one piece that fits the entire back area. I need to figure out how I'm gonna segment it to be able to install it in separate pieces. Pretty sure I have it worked out. Then start glassing in the subs.
Need to either score a Phoenix Gold DD-10 or make my own relay system to turn on all the components. 3 amps, the 3Sixty.3, and a bunch of LED lighting.


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## a_ahmed (Jul 25, 2017)

did you ever finish this project


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