# 4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG



## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Most likely a Buick Rendezevous... like last year, I'll set out tomorrow and may have one by the end of the day... but last time I ended up with an Aztek... we will see how it goes this time. I currently have 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's, 2 CSS FR125S's, and 2 Vifa XT25TG30 ring radiators. I have a Kicker KX850.4 with a bad crossover on 1 channel for the 6.4's, a KX350.4 to be bridged 8ohm on the 4" full rangers, and a KX200.2 thats blown for the tweets. I can send the amps in to Kicker for repair, but I might just buy all new ZX series..IDK yet.

I'll be getting some SHURiKEN SK-BT80 batteries from SicAudio, a HO alt, and proably some audiopipe ap3000d's... Alpine W200 w/ Alpine PXA-H701. 

I'll wall off the van with a few layers of MDF, 14" sonotube port in the center of the quad 18's... but no enclosure on the back side. I know I know... owell. After stripping it nekid, I'll use expanding foam to fill in everything I can then try to get a large quantity of resin to coat everything. Make it as air tight and rigid as possible. How sweet to pull up in the lanes and pop open the hatch and burp... unless I get more port gain with the hatch shut. This should be interesting, as the wall will divide the van into 2 chambers... the port connecting the 2... windows up IDK. Windows down, 6th order to the world. Will there be two tunings? a double impedance saddle? 2 low excursion points? we will have to see.

I'm also doing an HT build calling them the Twin Towers... dual 128 cubic foot enclosures each with an IB3 18" with a 12" sonotube port starting with a 6.5Hz tune and working my way up to 15Hz. Another learning/experimenting project.
__________________


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Look what I picked up today!


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

Alright! Now lets see those monsters in there! 

Josh


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

awd...good call, cause the rwd models,suck large salty ballz in the snow.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

amitaF said:


> awd...good call, cause the rwd models,suck large salty ballz in the snow.


this sucker drives up my icy driveway no sweat! everyone else sits and spins!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

JoshHefnerX said:


> Alright! Now lets see those monsters in there!
> 
> Josh


if Fi emails me back about 6 custom dual 2 ohm coils


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> this sucker drives up my icy driveway no sweat! everyone else sits and spins!


my rwd gmc safari would get stuck in 3'' of fluff on flat ground. unless i hauled my 600lbs tool chest in the rear.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

btw....suscribed


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

well check the HT Twin Towers build log.. my HT will get done before th VAN will  jus nabbed a blu-rey player and a buncha DVDs today...receiver tomorrow!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Ported wall, I want to see this.

LOL, Astro vans have always been favorites of the tow truck drivers around here. They can change direction on unsuspecting drivers in seconds as well as get stuck better than most (for 2wd). AWD is just awesome in the snow, I hate it when I don't have one.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

OK... I've noticed in the past that some cars/trucks when they accellerate in 1st gear they make a loud noise... my van does it and IDK what it is. It's like high velocity air in the filter or something. Any ideas? Hard to describe.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I have no idea about your driving problem but i really want to see this build up.. Subscribed


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


> OK... I've noticed in the past that some cars/trucks when they accellerate in 1st gear they make a loud noise... my van does it and IDK what it is. It's like high velocity air in the filter or something. Any ideas? Hard to describe.


Probably the engine fan.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

:-D got email back from Fi... working on ordering 6 custom D2 IB3 18's!

OK how about this... going down the interstate I get wind blowing through the driver side door a little... figured bad gasket..nope it's good... but I can see through the crack..see outside. Just a touch, like the door is bent out, but it's flush when it's shut though...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

amitaF said:


> awd...good call, cause the rwd models,suck large salty ballz in the snow.


But you can put a small block in a RWD and it's fun as hell.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

chad said:


> But you can put a small block in a RWD and it's fun as hell.


In the summer  One time I had my stang 5.0 sitting on flat ground with brand new goodyear GTs on it and 1-2" of snow. Thought I would move it over a little as I never once attempted to drive it in the winter. I moved 6" and the car stopped, it was worse than I figured. RWD can be fun in the winter if you set them up right, but still don't go that great. We used to get winter beaters when we were kids and try to get the car all the way sideways down the road before the rear end hit the snow bank and straightened the car back up, then hit the other side of the road. Man we did have some fun in those. Tall snow tires and cement blocks in the trunk.

Far as the door leak, if its the top of the door it may be bent that is common. Roll the glass down and put your knee just under the glass inside, pull progressively harder on the top of the door to bend it in, keep shutting it to check progress. If that is not going to do it, you can take the seal off the vehicle and try to move (rubber mallet maybe) that flange out a little, put rubber back on. Otherwise you need to move the hinges and/or latch striker, but it if has good body lines its usually the above or bad seal.


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


> OK how about this... going down the interstate I get wind blowing through the driver side door a little... figured bad gasket..nope it's good... but I can see through the crack..see outside. Just a touch, like the door is bent out, but it's flush when it's shut though...


The door probably need to be re-aligned or possibly the hinge bushings may be worn.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

sqshoestring said:


> Far as the door leak, if its the top of the door it may be bent that is common. Roll the glass down and put your knee just under the glass inside, pull progressively harder on the top of the door to bend it in, keep shutting it to check progress. If that is not going to do it, you can take the seal off the vehicle and try to move (rubber mallet maybe) that flange out a little, put rubber back on. Otherwise you need to move the hinges and/or latch striker, but it if has good body lines its usually the above or bad seal.


makes sense! I dount bad hing/bushings...its flush outside


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Audiopipe AP30001D or Audiopipe AQX3500.1 buying 4 today

What batteries... I was planning 3 SHURiKEN-BT80's... but IDK

Audiopipe AP30001D 3000W 2Ch Class D Amp w/Remote Bass Control :: Car Audio Deals

Audiopipe AQX3500.1 3500 Watt RMS Class D Mono 1 Ohm Stable Amplifier :: Car Audio Deals


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## SQCherokee (Mar 5, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


> makes sense! I dount bad hing/bushings...its flush outside


From my experience gms always have had HEAVY doors. I think your mechanisim has sagged a bit. 


The drivers door is the most heavily used so its gonna get the most wear.

Try tightening up the hinge bolts and adjusters and see if that helps at all.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ya i guess now that I rethink it, if it's flush but has a gap, that does make more sense, doesn't it?


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

chad said:


> But you can put a small block in a RWD and it's fun as hell.


 but for summer duty
did that to a pontiac acadian . was the ultimate stop-light sleeper[if you got it to hook-up]:laugh:


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Astros/Safaris are great for walls....but in my case, a single Treo TSX 12" ported is plenty for me in a '94 Grand Voyager. I am though going to toss in a 15" Memphis HP in a 2cf sealed box to play with since it's been sitting in my closet for about 2+ years now 

Look forward to the build pics...


Jeremy


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

glad youre tuned in Jeremy!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

If its the top section of the door see if you can loosen the hinge on the top of the door, not body, and lean the door in a little. Leave one bolt on the bottom tight so it don't drop, you might have to loosen the others on the bottom if it does not want to move. Sometimes the body lines don't line up perfect after its sealed, the things are not perfect and less so after years of use. Astro is more or less an S-10 under if I recall, or the original one was.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Thanks guys..I'll let you know how it goes. I havent been on the interstate since so it hasnt been a problem. But when I have 4 18's and a huge port...


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I guess that amp is 2ohm.. Fi got back, I can get dual 4 so that I have a 4 layer coil instead of a 2 layer coil with a S2.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

just purchased 6 Fi Audio IB3 18's custom dual 4 ohm. Why? cuz it's double the coil in the gap. Double the wire to split the current flow.


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

That van's going to ROCK!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

well only 4 are going in the van


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## adc604 (Apr 1, 2009)

I'm looking forward to seeing this get built :O


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Deka Intimidator 9A31 Battery | Absorbed Glass Mat Battery - Remy Battery

or

Amazon.com: Shuriken SK-BT80 80ah Battery: Automotive

and WHY?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

The Samsung Blu-Rey player I got let me down.. it's loud, sounds like an old printer. If you take the disc out it forgets where it was at and starts over. It can't read any of my burnt CDs, DVDs, or... other material. Sometimes the words don't match the faces on screen. This is compared to the last 2 DVD players I've owned over the years that each cost 30 bucks. So I bought the $100 Blu-Rey .. Magnavox.. so I could give the Samsung to my mother who won't care about all that and wants Netflix live stream. This one is the same... can't read burnt CDs or..other material. Forgets where it was at.

I had $35 of best buy rewards to use up...I figured about $20-$40 for a pair of RCA to XLR cables... they were 99c a piece! So I bought the last 5 they had! So then I had $35 rewards to still burn up, so I got a 100ft spool of Monster Cable  I HATE them. Walmart years ago had 50ft spools of yellow 12gauge for 10 bucks. I still have 1 or 2 left cuz I bought like 6 of them 6 or 7 years ago.

Bought rear drums and shoes for the van, as well as plugs, air and oil filter, and oil. The AC clutch is the fan noise problem. I may just pull the entire AC system like I did on my Accent GT and put the HO alt in it's place? Good idea?

I went to Sears today.. $190 for DieHard platinum. $805 for 4 of them. What ya'll think? get those tomorrow morning or order the Shuriken or Delta?

HT receiver and EP4000's shipped yesterday.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Alpine IVA-W505 Double Din TV/CD/DVD/MP3 Touchscreen TV - eBay (item 250589257815 end time Mar-31-10 08:59:54 PDT)

ALPINE IVA-W505 2 DIN Mobile Multimedia Station NEW : eBay Motors (item 150419487458 end time Mar-11-10 19:10:07 PST)

*NEW* ALPINE IVA-W505 7" 2-Din CD/MP3/DVD AM/FM Monitor - eBay (item 270544621746 end time Mar-20-10 11:04:35 PDT)


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I just bought an IVA-W505 and a PXA-H701 today, now I'm working on batteries and HO alt.

I'm pulling my AC and either gonna drop a 2nd used alt and a AD244 stocker, or, a HO alt with the AD244 stocker.DC power , Ohio gen , APS is who missinglinkaudio recommended. nathan of ecessive can do a 200 amp for $345 shipped.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Started tear down on the van , going to get wood tomorrow... build in the towers first.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Thats a really clean looking van to start with. doesn't look like the 92 Astro Van my mom had. 3 boys, 2 dogs, and a ton of road trips= one dirty old chevy


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I set out for a rendezevous and I saw that sittn there...for real cheap... and it was mine an hour later  I thought the same thing when I saw it... it wasn't a family car, it was all too clean!


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

Have you thought about the box design yet - going to be walled off I assume as the post states, but what about volume and port size? Also, what are you planning for dampening and making it stiffer. I assume you plan to still use this as a daily driver.

Josh


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

aboput 112 cubes, 20" sonotube port, 50" long, 10.5Hz tune. simply gluing MDF to the sides and filling between the body and the MDF with expanding foam. more than enough. No need for steel tubes, concrete, and 2x4's.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Why are you using IB drivers again?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

chad said:


> Why are you using IB drivers again?


30mm Xmax. $200. IB means nothing. Yes, they have a low BL for a target QTS. But when you build your box as big as possible and tune as low as possible, I still blow them the same way I blow every other sub... over excursion..never thermal. What does this mean? This under motored "IB" sub still has enough motor for me to 1: not thermally kill it and 2: mechanically kill it. Why pay more for a Q and get a higher Fs and lower Xmax when I already have more motor than I need for my application?

That was the long answer.

Short version: I'm a genius in disguise


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

So it appears all I have to do is :

How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 - S-10 Forum

I guess I should have a CS130D, find a AD244, and swap?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Super Start Batteries

now Im told these are good AGM batteries for cheap locally?? Was on my way to get the Die Hards


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> So it appears all I have to do is :
> 
> How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80 - S-10 Forum
> 
> I guess I should have a CS130D, find a AD244, and swap?


Looks like a pretty good writeup


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

define cheap on the batteries.... how many AH?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> Looks like a pretty good writeup


ya maybe you should thank the guy  don't be afraid to email him, at first he may bite you, but then he's a pretty cool and helpful guy


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

Almost 50 posts and not a single install picture. I want to see the van when its in progress, but this seems like a waste of a thread so far. Prove me wrong because this seems like it could be a nice system.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

he just bought the darn thing, I think he's doing a great job of getting started in his spare time.. it took me 2.5 years to get my hatch done  and I'm talking JUST THE HATCH, not the hatch car


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

so cal eddie said:


> Almost 50 posts and not a single install picture. I want to see the van when its in progress, but this seems like a waste of a thread so far. Prove me wrong because this seems like it could be a nice system.


If you think it's a waste of a thread then don't bother posting in it. It isn't doing you any harm with it being there.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> ya maybe you should thank the guy  don't be afraid to email him, at first he may bite you, but then he's a pretty cool and helpful guy


I deserve that haha. Throw up a pic of your alternator and I'll be able to tell you for sure if it's a cs130d or AD244.


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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> If you think it's a waste of a thread then don't bother posting in it. It isn't doing you any harm with it being there.


The thing is that I want to see this install. I remember watcing the vids of the aztek, and ,while I don't agree with having a baby in the car while you're spl testing, I did enjoy the fact of building a cool system. I think it's fair to expect pics within the first 3 pages of a BUILD LOG. Lets get to it and see this beast. 4 18s is insane. Lets at least see pics of the equipment or something.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> If you think it's a waste of a thread then don't bother posting in it. It isn't doing you any harm with it being there.





chad said:


> he just bought the darn thing, I think he's doing a great job of getting started in his spare time.. it took me 2.5 years to get my hatch done  and I'm talking JUST THE HATCH, not the hatch car


exactly, thank you guys


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so cal eddie said:


> The thing is that I want to see this install. I remember watcing the vids of the aztek, and ,while I don't agree with having a baby in the car while you're spl testing, I did enjoy the fact of building a cool system. I think it's fair to expect pics within the first 3 pages of a BUILD LOG. Lets get to it and see this beast. 4 18s is insane. Lets at least see pics of the equipment or something.


spl testing? 1 Fi IB3 tuned to 15Hz... a sub that I never hear the end of **** talk cuz it's under motored for IB, and a box tuning I never hear the end of cuz it's inefficient and too low... SPL testing? go away. Go yell at steve meade for his 5 videos of his son and a bunch of other kids with his 4 18" BTLS 20,0000 watts and 32Hz tuning. I'm busy trying to do an install thats apparently not fast enough for you kid.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

so cal eddie said:


> The thing is that I want to see this install. I remember watcing the vids of the aztek, and ,while I don't agree with having a *baby* in the car while you're spl testing, I did enjoy the fact of building a cool system. I think it's fair to expect pics within the first 3 pages of a BUILD LOG. Lets get to it and see this beast. 4 18s is insane. Lets at least see pics of the equipment or something.


So you then are aware that there is likely a family involved..and a day job eh?


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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

If I'm mistaking you for someone else, then I'm sorry. I do remember seeing vids of an aztek bumping the 18 with a kid in the car, though. If it's not you, forgive me. I do want to see what you do with the van, however. This is a diy forum, and I love to see what others do. What can I say, I'm on this forum during my day off because I like this stuff. Good luck with the build, and I meant no harm.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

other priorities










and starting tower #2


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so cal eddie said:


> If I'm mistaking you for someone else, then I'm sorry. I do remember seeing vids of an aztek bumping the 18 with a kid in the car, though. If it's not you, forgive me. I do want to see what you do with the van, however. This is a diy forum, and I love to see what others do. What can I say, I'm on this forum during my day off because I like this stuff. Good luck with the build, and I meant no harm.


truce man.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

That's a cs130d.

I'm assuming it'll still be plug and play on your Astro van. I don't see why it wouldn't.

Is 145A gonna be enough for you? I don't recall what amps you're running.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> That's a cs130d.
> 
> I'm assuming it'll still be plug and play on your Astro van. I don't see why it wouldn't.
> 
> Is 145A gonna be enough for you? I don't recall what amps you're running.


I think I mis-read your thread.. i thought they were under rated and sometimes do 200A at idle?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

The PXA-H701 came a cpl days ago

Alpine IVA-W505 dvd player on it's way

I have 1 Fi IB3 18, 6 more on the way... 4 for the VAN, 2 for the HT until the 22's come out, and a spair

Going to get dual AD244 alts and maybe a modulator for them

Going to get 4 of those batteries pictured above

Need to get some 12 gauge power wire 

Going to order 4 AP30001D's when they are back in stock

I have a pair ( 3... a spair) Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiators to be run with the Kicker KX200.2

2 CSS FR125S full range 4.5's to be run bridged 8 ohms off the KX350.4

4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off a KX850.4


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> I think I mis-read your thread.. i thought they were under rated and sometimes do 200A at idle?


They are under rated, but only by maybe 10A. They'll do 200A at idle when *cold*. Your engine and alternator heat up within 10 minutes or so of firing it up.

What amp(s) are you running? Do you know how much amperage you'll need?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> They are under rated, but only by maybe 10A. They'll do 200A at idle when *cold*. Your engine and alternator heat up within 10 minutes or so of firing it up.
> 
> What amp(s) are you running? Do you know how much amperage you'll need?


I have no idea what I'll actually be pulling, as I am over amping by a long shot..headroom, dynamics, never ever clip... effortless...less strain on equipment...

I have Kicker KX200.2, KX350.4, and KX850.4 now and I'll be ordering 4 AP30001D's when they are in stock again... but every one of those is way more power than needed. I have no idea what I'll be pulling.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> I have no idea what I'll actually be pulling, as I am over amping by a long shot..headroom, dynamics, never ever clip... effortless...less strain on equipment...
> 
> I have Kicker KX200.2, KX350.4, and KX850.4 now and I'll be ordering 4 AP30001D's when they are in stock again... but every one of those is way more power than needed. I have no idea what I'll be pulling.


Add up the TOTAL amount of power of ALL of your amps (rms ratings, and if you have a 2 channel that does 150 x 2, call that 300w). After you add up the total amount of power, multiply by .2 (given 80% efficiency). After you've multiplied that number by .2, add your current answer (no pun intended, ha! :laugh to the total amount of power you originally had. Now, divide this big number by 14.4 and you'll have the absolute MAXIMUM amount of current draw. This is worst case, you probably won't ever reach this amount, but this will give you an idea.

To put things in perspective, I'm running a total of 1800w rms (adding up my amps) with ONE 145A AD244 and I have zero voltage issues, even on the lowest of the low bass notes. Now, one of my speaker amps is toned down a lot for my mids, so it isn't a true 300w, only 100w. My sub amp, however, is set to a true 1200w, as with my midbass amp (JL 300/2) at 150w.

Hopefully that helps. If anyone can correct me on any of my information, please do so. It's been a little while since I've calculated this kind of thing.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

B_Rich said:


> Add up the TOTAL amount of power of ALL of your amps (rms ratings, and if you have a 2 channel that does 150 x 2, call that 300w). After you add up the total amount of power, multiply by .2 (given 80% efficiency). After you've multiplied that number by .2, add your current answer (no pun intended, ha! :laugh to the total amount of power you originally had. Now, divide this big number by 14.4 and you'll have the absolute MAXIMUM amount of current draw. This is worst case, you probably won't ever reach this amount, but this will give you an idea.
> 
> To put things in perspective, I'm running a total of 1800w rms (adding up my amps) with ONE 145A AD244 and I have zero voltage issues, even on the lowest of the low bass notes. Now, one of my speaker amps is toned down a lot for my mids, so it isn't a true 300w, only 100w. My sub amp, however, is set to a true 1200w, as with my midbass amp (JL 300/2) at 150w.
> 
> Hopefully that helps. If anyone can correct me on any of my information, please do so. It's been a little while since I've calculated this kind of thing.


wouldn't you add it all up, multiply by .80 (instead of .2) and then multiply that by the 14.4?? i could be wrong but thats what my local shop told me yesterday when i had a couple questions. Then again, don't trust them too much since they told me they wanted $60 to check my RCAs


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I already know my max power...13,700 RMS, and my kicker amps fuse ratings for max current draw are 190... 

KX850.4 3 40A fuses 1000 RMS benches
KX350.4 1 30A 490 IIRC
KX200.2 2 20A 270 IIRC

IDK what the fuses are for the AP30001Ds


BUT I'm not running 270 watts to 2 1" tweets, 490 watts to 2 4.5's, 1000 watts to 4 6.5's, or 3000 watts PER 18


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

had 2 create a new photobucket account! sometimes some show sometimes bandwidth error


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

MTopper said:


> wouldn't you add it all up, multiply by .80 (instead of .2) and then multiply that by the 14.4?? i could be wrong but thats what my local shop told me yesterday when i had a couple questions. Then again, don't trust them too much since they told me they wanted $60 to check my RCAs


I multiplied by .8 at first and the numbers just didn't seem right. I look at it like this:

If your amp puts out 1000w rms of power, that will be ~70A of current draw *just to get 1000w to the speaker.* Well no amp is 100% efficient, so if an amplifier can transfer 80% of it's current draw to the speaker (which is 1000w) that leaves 20% for the rest of the current draw, which will end up as heat (more or less).

Honestly, if I'm wrong here and can be proven wrong, I'll gladly step down, but this is how I look at things.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

explained like that, it makes a lot of sense. I'm 19 and still learning everything as i go so i'm probably wrong 75% of the time haha.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

had a rust spot i knocked out today for a dollar. paint dont even match but i dont care its better than rust


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

MTopper said:


> explained like that, it makes a lot of sense. I'm 19 and still learning everything as i go so i'm probably wrong 75% of the time haha.


19 here too, and you took the words right out of my mouth.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

B_Rich said:


> 19 here too, and you took the words right out of my mouth.


good to know i'm not the only youngin haha..

great work so far, can't wait to see the final product or the build up to it


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## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

what music do you plan on playing through this thing to even get the extra 10-15hz content you built it for? I know of one or two songs that go that low one of them is an audiophile recording and doesn't need to be played back at 150db's.. The other is taylor swift bassed out lol.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

T3mpest said:


> what music do you plan on playing through this thing to even get the extra 10-15hz content you built it for? I know of one or two songs that go that low one of them is an audiophile recording and doesn't need to be played back at 150db's.. The other is taylor swift bassed out lol.


I need those 2 songs from you so then I'll have 4 songs to play on repeat. Bass I Love You and The Bass Will Destroy you. Actuallt a lot of music has subsonic material in it, but not solid and hard to detect with Audacity as that checks peaks, not everything, so the strong other content masks it. But if you tuned like me and listened, youll find there's plenty.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> good to know i'm not the only youngin haha..
> 
> great work so far, can't wait to see the final product or the build up to it


 me either


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

If you go here Basic Car Audio Electronics to "#16 Wire" page there is a chart that estimates current flow for various amp sizes. A class D will be lucky to get 80% a class AB will not. However you should figure the power how you are using them ie: at what load. You can also assume highs will not take much power and you will only see that peak at clipping where amps are rated or on a sine wave they draw the most. Fuses on an amp does not tell you that much, many could never blow them under normal use as they put whatever they like the looks of in there. Some amps they may be viable but just not a dependable way to estimate. I've benched amps that are not near fuse rating and are way past clipping with a massive flat clipped wave. IMO many amps fuse only in case something shorts in the amp, not to protect the amp in normal use.

Great build BTW, I love 20Hz in my car and smile every time someone posts that there is no musical content under 30Hz. I run 15Hz subsonic because some old music has some stuff that was moving my subs. It goes under 20 but I'm not sure how much it gets more to feel then at high outputs.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

sqshoestring said:


> If you go here Basic Car Audio Electronics to "#16 Wire" page there is a chart that estimates current flow for various amp sizes. A class D will be lucky to get 80% a class AB will not. However you should figure the power how you are using them ie: at what load. You can also assume highs will not take much power and you will only see that peak at clipping where amps are rated or on a sine wave they draw the most. Fuses on an amp does not tell you that much, many could never blow them under normal use as they put whatever they like the looks of in there. Some amps they may be viable but just not a dependable way to estimate. I've benched amps that are not near fuse rating and are way past clipping with a massive flat clipped wave. IMO many amps fuse only in case something shorts in the amp, not to protect the amp in normal use.
> 
> Great build BTW, I love 20Hz in my car and smile every time someone posts that there is no musical content under 30Hz. I run 15Hz subsonic because some old music has some stuff that was moving my subs. It goes under 20 but I'm not sure how much it gets more to feel then at high outputs.


someone else with sense!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

MTopper said:


> explained like that, it makes a lot of sense. I'm 19 and still learning everything as i go so i'm probably wrong 75% of the time haha.





B_Rich said:


> 19 here too, and you took the words right out of my mouth.


 Me too!


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## T3mpest (Dec 25, 2005)

kryptonitewhite said:


> I need those 2 songs from you so then I'll have 4 songs to play on repeat. Bass I Love You and The Bass Will Destroy you. Actuallt a lot of music has subsonic material in it, but not solid and hard to detect with Audacity as that checks peaks, not everything, so the strong other content masks it. But if you tuned like me and listened, youll find there's plenty.


totally blanked on bass I love you lol. umm grandmas hands has a fan in the recording that plays back as an eleven hz tone IIRC. You can find it on this forum under the focal tracks, do a search. The taylor swift remix check CA and search for snoopdans taylor swift bass remix, or something similar, it wont' be hard to find.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

T3mpest said:


> totally blanked on bass I love you lol. umm grandmas hands has a fan in the recording that plays back as an eleven hz tone IIRC. You can find it on this forum under the focal tracks, do a search. The taylor swift remix check CA and search for snoopdans taylor swift bass remix, or something similar, it wont' be hard to find.


bass I love you, the lowest hit is 7Hz, but it sweeps, the 2nd lowest note is 16Hz, then the rest are 25, 30, 35 

you should see the vids of my HT twin towers doing bass I love you...oh, I havent recorded that song yet! I will later! The 7Hz pullses make my ceiling fan blades bounce!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


>


here comes a bunch more


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

here is my old dashboard top..front stage..to my Hyundai Accent GT










now keeping that in mind, imagine similar up here hanging down!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

whats more fun tha chicks doing your work for you? (OK, helping..but they never take pics of you doin stuff, but you can't stop yourself from taking pics of them..so it appears that way!)

NOTHING!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

this dude at my local shop told me to disconnect this blue plug from it's blue connector sceen in these pics since the AC clutch went out.

I have 2 side effects now that don't make sense...any guesses?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

alright IDK if I want to pull those heater cores out so i can fill in with foam later or just tape them off and leave them...cuz I dont want to deal with hoses

those electric boxes..idk what they are


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

This is gonna sound awesome


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I got BUSTED!

YouTube - cop.AVI


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

did i use enough caulk?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

some of these forums I am getting caught up on, some of you it is because either there have been no replies... you dont seem to get excited unless you actually see big speakers and amps and a bunch of batteries, some of you seem to have the attention spans of 3 year olds and you have to get the build log start to finish after its already done or you cry and complain, some of you talk to much **** and your moderators let it go...which is also why I am down to 6 total forums I am posting my VAN build log in, but only 2 I check and talk on daily... but these 6 forums are still going because over all you have been good people with some good comments to keep me going...so if you're reading this, you have been kind..so THANK YOU! and should the good comments continue, so will the pics and vids

Jordan Powell

Kryptonitewhite


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I'm attempting something similar to my old front stage, but nothing near as elaborate. 

there's a lot of available airspace, it's just that its so shallow and wide.... it's basically the width of the van, the depth from the front of the roof back to the wall...well, actually there's a roof support that cut's it in 1/2 before the wall... but it can only come down so far before it will obstruct my view or make the roof too low. 

when I made my 1st front stage, the speakers were about 1.5 feet below eye level so I aimed them 1.5 feet above eye level to make them appear at eye level. Also, all 8 speakers were mounted on separate baffles, each speaker was aimed at exactly the same point on the roof.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> This is gonna sound awesome


ya, captain obvious, ya think? 

hehehe...I couldn't resist!

anyway, yes..the goal of this system is NOT SPL, it's not to be the loudest on the block (well, where I live, it may just be the loudest in town, maybe not) and it's not supposed to be a SQ competator. Yes, I will try to take her to a couple comps and BUUUURP! and do a couple SQ runs to get pointers to make it over all better... but this is just to sound really good and be really loud with the bugget that I had...which is now just about all spent!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so I have a problem. I spray painted the 1st side's windows black so it just looks like dark tint. but I didn't spray paint the other side. Good thing. For the 1st few days it looked pretty cool... all the different layers of foam that all looked cured a different way.

Today, I can see it all collapsed!


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## Kramer (Mar 7, 2008)

very interesting - I'm digging the whole dash - can't wait to see it finished!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Kramer said:


> very interesting - I'm digging the whole dash - can't wait to see it finished!


thanks very much! The dashboard is never going to get finished, that car..hyundai accent gt, is gone..has been for 2 years. I still have the speakers and amps, better crossover...and Im starting froim scratch for the van


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so here you can see the outside edges where the foam was exposed to air turned out, you can also see I did some touching up this morning..some fresh foam in a few places, a few more cans hanging...but over all, very well





























some patch work




























see the dark yellow? thats old foam not yet cured... as I peel the duct tape away, foam not yet exposed to air is all gooey and starts to run and bubble when it gets air, so I try to press the tape back and let it cure more now that it has more air



















AND THE FAILURE. COLLAPSED. no air? now what do I do?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

the glass makes for terrible reflection I know...sorry


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Maybe drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in the mdf to allow air in? and maybe take your compressor and really short bursts of air through the holes would help.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Austin said:


> Maybe drill a bunch of 1/4" holes in the mdf to allow air in? and maybe take your compressor and really short bursts of air through the holes would help.


thats pretty good.. ive been thinking drilling holes and how much it may or may not weaken the wood. when I was building the two towers, I jumped on top of them to cut the speaker holes and port holes, and as i was cutting them out, i could actually feel them sag more as I cut more.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> thats pretty good.. ive been thinking drilling holes and how much it may or may not weaken the wood. when I was building the two towers, I jumped on top of them to cut the speaker holes and port holes, and as i was cutting them out, i could actually feel them sag more as I cut more.


Well yeah, but that was a 12" and 18" hole... 1/4" hole wont do that, and you can always plug them up with some fiberglass/bondo which you would want to do anyways. With all the foam it will be sturdy enough.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Austin said:


> Well yeah, but that was a 12" and 18" hole... 1/4" hole wont do that, and you can always plug them up with some fiberglass/bondo which you would want to do anyways. With all the foam it will be sturdy enough.


yes youre right, what I mean though is that every hole will lessen strength, and when i was considering it I was thinking a lot of holes as I dont have an air compressor. but I think the board with a bunch of holes with good foam behind it would be much stronger than a board with no holes and bad foam.

but i am afriad the same thing will happen again if I just put in more foam and force air through it one way or another... and one of the things you learn quick doing this, is the foam is unpredictable...sometimes it just settles...runs, flows, sinks down..other times it expands rapidly, goes all over, and you find yourself scrambling for duct tape and cardboard trying to plug holes before all the foam squirts out all over the interior where you dont want it rather than building up inside where you do want it. Add in forcing air througha confined space... lots and lots of fumes...

thats another story...I had to open all the doors on the van and in the garage and I could still see lots of fume. good thing I dont smoke!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I loved your video of being pulled over... that made me laugh pretty hard haha. I'm really impressed with your attention to detail with just the foam so far


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> I loved your video of being pulled over... that made me laugh pretty hard haha. I'm really impressed with your attention to detail with just the foam so far


well it's posts like these that make me take an extra hour or more every day to take these pics, transfer to PC, upload to photobucket, and post on the forums! Thank you very much!


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> well it's posts like these that make me take an extra hour or more every day to take these pics, transfer to PC, upload to photobucket, and post on the forums! Thank you very much!


Hey, i will give anyone and everyone credit for doing the job right, i do simple installations for kids around my area and you should see some of the crap they pull... the one kid had his power wiring duct taped to the floor instead of under the carpeting and the rca cables running through the dash A/C vent and wondered why the cable jacket melted when he put the heat on full blast......

So, i love seeing people go the extra step and doing it right, i myself don't have the money to do everything right so i do it as i can afford to ya know?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> Hey, i will give anyone and everyone credit for doing the job right, i do simple installations for kids around my area and you should see some of the crap they pull... the one kid had his power wiring duct taped to the floor instead of under the carpeting and the rca cables running through the dash A/C vent and wondered why the cable jacket melted when he put the heat on full blast......
> 
> So, i love seeing people go the extra step and doing it right, i myself don't have the money to do everything right so i do it as i can afford to ya know?


do I ever! I been broke ass my whole life... money just fell into my lap so I did what Ive been dreaming about for 15 years


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

I may not post much but i am watching both of your threads closely.  It is really cool to see someone go to an extreme. Cant wait for this build to be finished.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Austin said:


> I may not post much but i am watching both of your threads closely.  It is really cool to see someone go to an extreme. Cant wait for this build to be finished.


I love everything extreme..I get bored too easy...ADHD lol. An interesting thing, maybe... infra red and ultra violet are the 2 extreme ends of the visual spectral frequency range, I love those colors... as well as infra and ultra sonics.... I love the lowest frequencies and the highest that we can hear. I'll be crossing my tweets much higher than normal


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Kicker is fixing 2 of my 4channels for $115!

KX200.2 used to blow fuses immidiately. someone started repair, now green light but no sound

KX850.4 crossover on 1 channel doesn't function properly


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> Kicker is fixing 2 of my 4channels for $115!
> 
> KX200.2 used to blow fuses immidiately. someone started repair, now green light but no sound
> 
> KX850.4 crossover on 1 channel doesn't function properly


I had a JL Audio 300/4 that had 2 blown channels that JL fixed for about the same price.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> I had a JL Audio 300/4 that had 2 blown channels that JL fixed for about the same price.


so I got 2 for the price of 1! And over the years, i've gotten free connectors and a free S15L7


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i hate you for the free L7. don't get me wrong, i love my JL 12w6v2 but i'd love to get stupid crazy bass with an L7.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

there was a shipping error on a warranty, 1 was sent to my local shop (when I was dumb enough to get local and thought it was dumb to buy online) and I had to deal with a lot of problems with my local shop..so lori boyder told me KEEP IT!

I think I love her. I don't think she works there anymore. And I needed another set of speaker wires for a pair of 6x9's... she asked my address and just shipped them out. 

I baught my 1st L7 at a local shop, it took me months to talk them down. They wanted ridiculous brick and mortar prices, the new version came out, so i finaly got them down to $270 on 1 15". It had a warranty, so after it blew, I got the new model. A year later I baught one online refurbed for $170... popped a couple, had them reconed, sold the last one once warranty was almost up. always ran only 1 and they were AMAZING.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Ok, good enough i guess haha. i've been running my single 12w6 for the last year now and it just sounds amazing to me for clarity and when wanted, it gets loud


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

why did you not toss some cheap tint on those windows first.. or like black paint?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> Ok, good enough i guess haha. i've been running my single 12w6 for the last year now and it just sounds amazing to me for clarity and when wanted, it gets loud


im not knockin your gear lol 

I remember when i was first really getting into this stuff I wanted 18W0's back in 96' lol


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> im not knockin your gear lol
> 
> I remember when i was first really getting into this stuff I wanted 18W0's back in 96' lol


First system i was proud of was 2 12w0s in a sealed box being powered by a JL 300/2 and it was loud in my little cavalier


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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

This looks like a really fun install. The front stage looks like it will sound really nice. Are you going to do a small front sub, like in the center console or just get by with the massive bass in the back?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

chad said:


> why did you not toss some cheap tint on those windows first.. or like black paint?


i did spray paint the other side but I forgot to on this side... got in too much of a hurry...i still have 3 cans in the garage meant for that side.

good thing I didnt, tho, huh? cuz now I know


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so cal eddie said:


> This looks like a really fun install. The front stage looks like it will sound really nice. Are you going to do a small front sub, like in the center console or just get by with the massive bass in the back?


4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's? 13mm Xmax each? Kicker KX850.4 benched at 1000 RMS to run them?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so, the foam did cure, it did collapse so to speak...more like it left giant voids. But it also left a huge skeleton structure... it looks like an under ground tunnel labrynth by moles and the like. Some of it is very concentrated and sturdy looking. I think this is a blessing in disguise.

I'm just gonna drill and fill.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

why does my phone take better pics than my brand new $250 camera?!


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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


> 4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's? 13mm Xmax each? Kicker KX850.4 benched at 1000 RMS to run them?


Damn!! Thats crazy. From your pics, it looked like you had something going on in front of the shifter. I just remembered the trans/engine hump in these vans comes into the interior further because of the shorter hood.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so cal eddie said:


> Damn!! Thats crazy. From your pics, it looked like you had something going on in front of the shifter. I just remembered the trans/engine hump in these vans comes into the interior further because of the shorter hood.


those pics are of a car.
I am building in a van now.


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

I would like to see the pics you have uploaded, but I think you need a different web hosting service.... Can't see ****.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

nothin i ca do i formatted so the pics on the old photbucket accts are gone... but i made a 3rd account yesterday so all new pics will show


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

JoshHefnerX said:


> I would like to see the pics you have uploaded, but I think you need a different web hosting service.... Can't see ****.


i have no problem seeing his pictures so it might just be your computer


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

MTopper said:


> i have no problem seeing his pictures so it might just be your computer


No, bandwidth exceeded. The last couple of pics were ok but pretty much all of page5 were that way.

Josh


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I thought you were talking about page 6, i had no problem with page 5 before today... it happens though haha


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Wow, I like the dash. That is going to be something to see at a show, no matter what they think of it, if you take it to one.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

sqshoestring said:


> Wow, I like the dash. That is going to be something to see at a show, no matter what they think of it, if you take it to one.


the dash is my old build for a car

i am keeping it in mind for the VAN build

sorry about the badwidth guys! Not much i can do!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ya so... when i was looking for power wire, I couldn't get a definitive on AP30001D terminal size, but i think it is 0. So I looked for 0. Then, the guy I bought the amps from was selling 50ft spools for $100. But i found some cheap crap for $65. Sure, it wasn't pure copper, and he couldn't tell me if his was when he said "sorry I don't get generic so i can't go less than a bill" or something to that effect. But i figured Ive never ran bigger than 4 gauge.. i dont care what anyone says, screw internal resistence and volatge drop and all that talk. I had 6 red tops off 4 gauge and I was fine, so if I get cheap 0 gauge it still has to be better than the best 4 gauge.

Another angle: The junk was $50, $65 shipped. The "good stuff" was $100... IDK how much shipping would tag on, but let's just say the cost was double. There's no way that the copper only wire is gonna be twice as good as the junk wire. So screw it!

BUT, I got it today, and you can literally see a fraction of the strands are aluminum! OK, so i was thinking I would have to pay double to get some 99.98% pure copper wire or some crazy number vs maybe 80%-90% copper...but wow, this is like 60%-80% maybe? IDK...

And, it sure doesn't look huge. It resembles the 4 gauge I've been working with..but the packing says 0 gauge..so whatever.


So then I had to look for terminal rings, and IDK the terminal size on my AGM batts...so i just get the biggest I can order... and of course its a touch small, so I have to use a drill and shave the holes to get them to fit my battery terminals. 

Oh well! No crying here. I got a badass system in progress. I'm not letting some collapsed foam in my way! Slow me down? ya. But it will get done!


So as for foam, I drilled 2 holes in 2 separate pockets and sprayed just 1 can in each. It looked normal at first, but later it looks like it's just melting into the rest of the blob. I'll look again tomorrow in new light.

I got some cheap paint and painted the caulk from the window..looks a lot better.

I'ma keep on movin! ALT and AMPS should be here soon.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

You completely ruined that van with the spray foam...

I have to agree with the guys on Termpro, a bunch of 2x4s would have been stronger, easier to build, and cheaper.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

isn't american accessories the cheaper stuff that woofersetc.com sells?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> isn't american accessories the cheaper stuff that woofersetc.com sells?


idk... i searched ebay for the cheapest 50 foot spool under the assumption that the worst of the worst can't be that much from the best of the best. I'm confident the electricity generated from the alt will make it to the speakers just fine


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

o i don't doubt it will get the power to the amps at all... i was just curious is all.. You're going to have so much bass in the van anyway that it won't matter haha.. thats why i don't really care what RCA cables i'm running for my sub amp.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

lol. you think like me. sure, if I am competing to get every last drop of SPL, that last .01dB..OK. If I'm competing in SQ and I jsut gotta have it perfect...fine.

But 99% of the time I'm going to be using 10% or less of the power I have on tap. Those IB drivers aren't going to be getting 3000 watts RMS! Those 1" tweets aren't going to be getting 200 watts RMS! I am over building so that I can coast rather than redline


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i love the thinking on that one. In my mind, i'm 19. i have a great sub, some really good speakers (compared to most other people) and it can get loud as heck when wanted. good enough for me. i just like to have something different that sounds and looks good to me.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> i love the thinking on that one. In my mind, i'm 19. i have a great sub, some really good speakers (compared to most other people) and it can get loud as heck when wanted. good enough for me. i just like to have something different that sounds and looks good to me.


exactly. I'm not trying to be the best anything, cuz there's already the Steve Meades, Tommy King of Bass's, Scottie Johnsons..and whomever... I just want it to be loud clear and low, while being effortless and not having to redline and break stuff.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

that looks a lot like the Knu 4 guage i'm running right now


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> exactly. I'm not trying to be the best anything, cuz there's already the Steve Meades, Tommy King of Bass's, Scottie Johnsons..and whomever... I just want it to be loud clear and low, *while being effortless and not having to redline and break stuff*.


hahaha i completely agree with the last statement. i'm in the process of sound deadening my SUV to keep all the rattles down and rerunning all my wiring


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ok nevermind! my old 4 to my new 0... big difference


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

well I used the 50 bucks I saved on wire and got a hydro crimper  there's a dude on Car Stereo Forum doing 4 DP21s 4th order that sent me a link t get it. My window started acting up so i put in a new motor yesterday. I pulled the dash to see how I'm gonna customize it to get the Alpine to fit...man it's a tight squeeze. I knew all along once I popped the dash open I'd have to look and see if i could do the front stage in it again..but nope, a HUGE aluminum plate. Good. The roof build will be easy and simple. Started working on the false roof and started the bracing for the wall... 2 layers of 2x6... will make a # sign too with 2 supports up and down and 2 side to side going between subs and port. oh, and I got a fish tank pump and hose... i drilled a bunch of holes in both sides the other day and let it sit..nothing has happened...so I'll leave that on overnight and see what happens.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

You my friend are crazy haha. I agree, there are tons of steve meades in the world who go crazy loud for more of a show truck rather than as a DD that goes boom haha


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

the roof is in, it was a lot of work getting the roof to curve and bend...so bad that fasteners wont hold. Ive been considering using 2 2x6s to go behind the seats to keep them from going back and hitting the subs..well now they're roof supports as well



















sketched out the wall so I can see how I'm gonna make the # sign... it's looking like it will have to be just 2 going up and down, and not doubled up  only part way side to side but maybe doubled up... port will be in the way 

I was only gonna tripple baffle the wall, but i may have to add a couple layers..but then the subs might get close to wacking the 2x6 roof supports/seat protectors










12,000 watts. Combined with the three 4-channels, that is 14,000 RMS potential


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

front stage










so it's being said that gauge must be measured by wire, not jacket included, but everyone has the same reaction...looks small for 0. So which is it?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I've got aprx 105 cubes before port displacement and wheel well/ AC condensor, heater core, subs, amps, and bracing.

20" X 50" port (55" total, 5" will stick out like my HT) is over 9 cubes displ... so 88 total, about 22 cubes per sub...same as my Aztek box. My aztek had a 7.5" diameter port for 44" of area, where 20" is 314/4= 78.5" per sub


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

HOLY PORT BATMAN!!! thats sounds like it'll be amazing


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

and it's round, so more efficient  and... I'm mounting the amps to the walls..therefore IN the box ( save the comments please, it's not like mounted inside an 88 cubic foot box is any worse than on top of a box in a trunk ) so once I put the back on, my only access is through the port 

don't worry, my fat ass can slip into the 16.5" cutout for the 18's


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

haha, i don't think i could fit easily into those gaps. i just have broad ass shoulders haha


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

i lied when i said slip. its not easy.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

haha, i thought so. hey, if you fly me down there, i'll help you button it all up as long as i get to hide inside the box hahaha


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ima make vids from inside the box bumpin


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so my neighbor used to peek and stare every time he passed while I was working...weve become friends and he has 3 12" CVR's...single 4ohm...sealed. He has a rockford t1500 that fried...all 3 subs were parallel LOL. So I sold him one of my amps and ordered another one. we runnin that ***** at 6 friggen ohms. it's louder than his rockford was. we're gonna IB his trunk with them this weekend so ill make a build log of that later. the fuse holder that came with the BNIB amp had bad burn marks on the inside where the power wire makes its contact! Everything looks and works fine though. Now I'm nervouse I wont get a 4th amp for a while after the build is complete 

anyway,

I made 2 of 3 baffles today, put 1 in on the backside of the wall frame so that I can mark out everything and add more bracing easily. Its hard to see from the pics, but theres a sub in each corner then a 22" port line. 22" is retarded. The 18's look tiny now. Anyway, my tuning was too high and after mapping things out I decided I can squeeze a bigger port to raise tuning and add area... but a quick run in ISD still shows 12.35Hz so I'll have to shorten the port a little. At the top there are 2 6.5" 2x4's coming down then connected with a 16" wide. On the bottom I made 2 triangles. It's the best I can do...so I decided I'm gonnatripple baffle the front still, but put a 4th on the back of the 6" wide bracing so I can caulk and screw together to hold and support the bracing. I'll lose a little more airspace, so maybe I wont have to shorten the port after all.

baffle board on the back side, pic from the back looking in










from inside looking back... port cutout line and the outline of the top support



















bottom 2 supports










more of the same





































really, I just cant put the baffle boards in front where they are supposed to be cuz they wont fit through the doors, and I cant put them in through the back cuz the supports are in the way..I cant take the supports out cuz they are holdig the roof up..and Im not redoing the roof but 1 time cuz that was a nightmare.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I love the build so far. i wish i had the components and subs for use so i could build those in my little blazer


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

components? to me that implies a matched midrange to a tweeter with a designed specific crossover... to me that implies easy


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i mean mids, tweeters, amps, and what not.. couldn't think of a good word haha


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

jus teasin


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

haha.. i'm a little slow when it comes to figuring out a good word to use for many things... 
Greatest thing i've ever heard was from my automotive buddy...

"My truck has a column shifter while your's has a.... um.... bottom shifty... thing" haha

He couldn't think of floor shifter haha


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I've always had love for Kicker. Over the years, every time I need something... they just ask my address and send it. "what's the charge?" "oh it's already sent. thanks for Livin Loud!"

Well I got my amps back yesterday in record time, and included was 1 or 2 sets of remote gain control with the cable(s). I thought I saw 2 but today I pulled them back out to snap pics and there's one. Either way I won't be using them so someone locally that needs one will scoop it up sometime. I just love Kicker, always have.










I love when my woman helps










it's cool when we can play flirt and tease while doing installs.

even better when I can put her to work










I wasn't satisfied with the bracing, so I decided to connect the top brace with the bottom two..I'll have to shave out a lot on both of them for the speaker cutouts, but with them being sandwiched from both sides, should still be well worth it. That 22" port just eats up the whole wall.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Its a great thing to get the other half to help you complete something like that. great brace work btw


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

thanks.. at first it was looking like bracing wasnt gonna be so hot, but kept starin and thinkin and it worked out


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

4-5 years ago when i was workin on my accent build with the front stage going 4-way active, I came up with the idea of 4 toggle switches.. HP-BP-BP-LP. So I can kill any range I want and have on any range I want... mainly for showin off the system and teaching people...cuz Ive always got people walkin up on my wanting to learn.. and I can demonstrate "this is what the tweeters do" and kill the rest. "this is just tweets and subs".. and so on.

So I got my Iraggi today, scooped up 4 toggles and another DMM as my X biatch snatch gots all my old stereo, tools, everything....











gotta show off my 12" port and my lights too... gonna do the same in the VAN... red and blue lights. Someday I'll scoop up a little amp and do bass on 1 channel and treble on the other, have blue lights hooked to bass and red to trebble, so the blues are long and continuous and reds flashin and blinkin rapid like.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

that would be a pretty cool concept if you can find songs where the blue slowly fades in and out and the red goes strobe haha


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

Great progress kryptonite, things are looking really good. Those neon lights look really cool haha.

Is that AD244 from Iraggi? What are the specs on it?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> Great progress kryptonite, things are looking really good. Those neon lights look really cool haha.
> 
> Is that AD244 from Iraggi? What are the specs on it?


Sup Brian, IDK if he just made his own or if he rebuilt..I'm assuming made his own cuz there's not a single marking on the alt anywhere. Here is what he sent me in an email tho.

220 $359 (160-200 amps @ idle)
240 $379 (160-190 amps @ idle)
260 $399 (160-180 amps @ idle)
280 $419 (150-180 amps @ idle)
300 $439 (140-215 amps @ idle)

So I asked him if the 1st one has the best output at idle and he said yes, so I got that one.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ya'll know how much i HATE do do stuff for cosmetics...but i couldn't help myself. I wanted to add a spacer for more rear clearance for the pole vents as well as a thicker baffle for better screw grabbin. Then I couldn't help but trace it out. Then I couldn't help but break out the 'ol router. BUT I made DAMN sure to at least do a ****** job!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

basically they are Adire Audio Kit LCRs using the Vifa to replace the Usher

2 Vifa XT25TG30 1" Ring Radiator tweeters being run off a Kicker KX200.2 These will be high passed MUCH higher than they should be. They are solid down to 1.5k, 3k would be an excellent crossing, but I'm going to go super high... maybe as high as 12-14kHz... I won't know till i play. I hate the 2nd highest treble tweeters reproduce. I love the extreme highs.

2 CSS FR125S 4.5" full range drivers. These drivers were made for audiophiles that are so peculiar that they are willing to sacrifice the extreme highs and extreme lows to avoid a crossover and all the SQ lost with them. They have a copper sleeve and XBL^2 tech to get them to go as high and as low as possible, low inductance..yadda yadda yadda. They can be played up to 20kHz just fine. I should cross them close to my Vifa's range, but I'm purposely making a hole in my sound floor where the lower treble range will be attenuated. But hey, between the FR125S and the XT25TG30's, I'll still have more treble I'll ever need... just not so harsh and raspy. These will be bandpassed from 700Hz to wherever I end up staring the hole. Kicker KX350.4 bridged, as these are HT 8ohm speakers.

4 Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's. XBL2. These 4 woofers are good down to 33Hz when vented. I'll cross them somewhere around 50-80Hz, I will take lots of play time to optimize them. My subs play quite high, they sound good crossed at 80Hz in my HT, but a main focus of mine is DMX going "uh! uh-huh!" or JaRule, Ludacris... deep voices. Pac. I went with 4 of these when 2 would be overkill in their mounting location as it is, cuz I want the high/tight/thump/kick to be crisp and clear. I want bass guitars, drums, men's voices... to be strong and effortless, not strained and breaking up. I could run 4 12" subwoofers with a Kicker KX850.4 it was benched 1000 RMS. It's running these bad boys. Bandpassed 60Hz-700Hz.

The Fi IB3 18's in 86 cubic feet with a 22" port tuned to 15Hz LPed at 80Hz. 4 AP30001D's.

Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player to watch WOTW's, HULK, Star Trek, Transformers... you name it..so I don't have to listen to the same 20-30 songs all day with sub-20Hz content.

I need an excellent crossover to do 4-way active, 2 channels bandpassed. I chose the Alpine PXA-H701.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

Wow, that looks AWESOME! To be honest with ya man, I kind of doubted the idea of the speakers up there at first, but I see you took your time and made 'em look really nice up there. My apologies haha. That baffle turned out GREAT.

Are you going active with all of those?

And the alternator looks like a great buy. They probably just bought a regular AD244 case and built up the internals to those specs. Hopefully it'll do what they say it'll do. Enjoy the extra power haha.

Things are looking great so far, I'll definitely be following along.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

ooooo H701, my question has been answered haha.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> Wow, that looks AWESOME! To be honest with ya man, I kind of doubted the idea of the speakers up there at first, but I see you took your time and made 'em look really nice up there. My apologies haha. That baffle turned out GREAT.
> 
> Are you going active with all of those?
> 
> ...


Thanks Brian, everyone doubts all the weird stuff I do...cuz it's jsut so -Sci-Fi! lol. But somehow it all keeps coing together like it's meant to be. 4-way active with the Alpine PXA-H701!

You sent me down the right path of reasearch, and you should check out my thread over on AVS forum... I posted a link to your thread and a guy and his son did what you told them to and they are extatic. Pop in and say "HI!"

4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG - Page 3 - AVS Forum


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> ooooo H701, my question has been answered haha.


I saw that coming, so I said nothing... figured you hadn't seen the last post yet LOLZ


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

haha that's awesome, good to hear about that guy and his son! Glad I could share the wealth


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Add me on Face Book

Welcome to Facebook

Jordan Powell


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Sorry for the delay in my oogling haha. out of town with no internet. I'm impressed by the speaker rings, can't wait to find my router wherever my mom stashed it in the basement haha... you seemed to enjoy creating them too


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

ya it was fun, turned out better than I expected


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## designerfh (Nov 4, 2007)

Port looks a little long.. cut a few inches off, then seal it up and I think you are done. Might want to put some wire mesh over the end of it in case a homeless person tries to camp in it. 

Also might need a red flag attached to it, per state law.


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## patjzerod (Apr 19, 2010)

OMG, looks good so far, would like to see the complete seal but we all know it takes time to get things the exact way you want them


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

designerfh said:


> Port looks a little long.. cut a few inches off, then seal it up and I think you are done. Might want to put some wire mesh over the end of it in case a homeless person tries to camp in it.
> 
> Also might need a red flag attached to it, per state law.


i can't stop laughing


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

patjzerod said:


> OMG, looks good so far, would like to see the complete seal but we all know it takes time to get things the exact way you want them


time is on my side, yes it is!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

my neighbor buddy, i made him cut the holes on the last baffle board..they dont much matter anyway theyre way in back..but he did pretty good


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I'm impressed you got neighbors into it. The only people i ever get to help is either my brother who's also a Car nut or my little cousin who just likes cars


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

man I get people i dont know over all day long every day! im in the hood, and people just walk up..its weird but im getting used to it


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

Get that man a router!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

alkin him into a HO alt for now


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

You're a lucky/trusting SOB! haha... great that you've got help, they probably love the van build idea


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

im not trusting at all. i am a very paranoid person and very skeptical. i have no choice in the matter


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

it's been a while since I've been challenged on my "infinite baffle woofer" usage, but someone is... forceful again, so i thought my reply is a good one for all the IB3 VAN builds

I have already proved the IB3 18 works great in an enclosure. I have been running mine in one for the last year. Over a year ago I ran it in an Aztek, 21.5 cubic feet, 7.5" port, 15Hz tune. I then retuned to 20Hz, 25Hz, and 33Hz to experiment, then back to 15. I first ran it with a Lanzar OPTI2000D. That wasn't enough power for this ""IB"" sub. Then I got a Hifonics BXi2608D. It still wasn't enough at 2 ohms, so I ordered a custom dual 2 recone kit to run it at 1 ohm.

Then I brought the box in my home. It worked great in-car and in-home. In the house I first ran it off 2 cheap walmart plate amps. Considering the power it was most impressive. Then I ran it off a Behringer EP4000.

Since I was right, I bought 6 more of them, and I am now running 2 of them in 128 cubic feet each, with an EP4000 each.

The VAN build is the same thing... 22 cubic feet, 15Hz tune...just more port area.

This is a video in the Aztek off a Lanzar OPTI2000D. It was loud, it was clear, it was low, responce was smooth, flat, and wide. It played very high as well.

YouTube - Love For Money 2

I hope you have a good stereo on your PC. I just watched this vid and it made my computer and monitor BOUNCE in the next room. Anyone who wants to politely ask my opinion, fine, but beware about being cocky. This video right here was made with a cheap 60 watt amp from walmart. I'd like to see any other subwoofer do a lot better than this one did off 60 watts..period.

YouTube - DSC_0001.AVI

The camera used in the last vid and this vid was terrible, all noise is distorted..even quiet... so this is exaggerated a bit. But for 60 watts, this "infinite baffle" subwoofer shakes the entire house.

YouTube - DSC_0002.AVI

Now the thing that I loved about the walmart amps, was they played single digit subsonics that my EP4000s can not. This video was made to show the guys on Home Theater Shack that I indeed did get a lot of port velocity on a 7.5" port with an IB 18 with less than 200 watts. This used to shake my house with the 1 sub, but with my new amps it's almost not even present. EP's are known for a steep roll off below 20Hz.

YouTube - 01 trucks semi.AVI

gotta love WOTWs. while in a huge box tuned low to get subsonics, it still hit hard, kicked hard, slammed hard for the punch

YouTube - 02 lightening.AVI

my favorite part of the whole movie. if you dont have a huge system hooked to your PC youre not gonna get this...it is far too low and you have to move a LOT of air.

YouTube - 03 road break church break.AVI

a song with sub 20Hz material and thumping at the same time?

YouTube - Sage Francis - Broken Wings.AVI

got the EP4000's, my old sub was dual 2, the new ones are dual 4, so I wanted to blow my old sub to recone it as a dual 4 so I have a replacement. this is a 17Hz sine wave... a lot of power AT TUNING. with an infinite baffle speaker. hmmm. blowing wind across the room.

YouTube - CIMG0249.AVI

10Hz on a 17Hz tune... unloading still shakin my house and blowing air full excursion. listen to the EP4000 fan kickin it in high gear at the end when I stop the sine wave.

YouTube - CIMG0250.AVI

Built the Two Towers.... distorts the crap out of the new camera, 780i HD

These were with a 6.5Hz tune! 128 cubic feet per box, 12" diameter port, 48" long

YouTube - 01 krazy.AVI

YouTube - fish and grits and pimp sh.AVI

ever made two 200lb boxes rock back and forth and fan blads bounce froma 6Hz sine wave?

YouTube - 000 111 6Hz.AVI

retuned to 15Hz... FULL EXCURSION sine wave for a full minute, didnt even get the sub warm.

YouTube - 15hz sine.AVI

did it again, with my back door shut. It is on the other side of the house...and it was moving so far i could see light through it from outside.

YouTube - 15hz sine door flop.AVI

I rest my case

thanks


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

I have no doubt in the world that you know what you're doing with all of this. i want to know who was questioning you


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

a moderator on another forum. people do it all the time, have been with both of these builds. but ima let them hate while i bump!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## RattyMcClelland (Nov 28, 2008)

Stunning matey. Loving the effort so far and i really appreciate the vids you do. Just amazed at what can shake in you house of few little watts.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

RattyMcClelland said:


> Stunning matey. Loving the effort so far and i really appreciate the vids you do. Just amazed at what can shake in you house of few little watts.


Thanks very much! Gotta get motivated to go out and get started for the day


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

alright there are 2 brake wires to make sure your parked to be able to view video. yellow blue is parking brake and yellow black is foot brake . 

To watch video source, push foot break to come to a complete stop, then engage park brake . Keep pushing foot brake and release parking brake once then engage again. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time release the foot brake .

I'm going to use 2 toggle switches for this so others can watch video while I drive safely. 


The diagram showing splicing into the foot brake lamp and parking brake lamp shows the foot brake spliced into the positive wire after the switch, before the lamp.

It shows the parking brake spliced after the lamp but before the switch, making it the negative.

So does the foot need to be on a positive switch and the parking a grounded switch?

anyway here's my first wobbly vid right after I installed it driving around playing a cd and getting a feel for the touch screen and tilt. 

YouTube - touch bass tilt wobbly.AVI


Got the hydrolic crimper ( thanks again for the heads up rmzsuzuki89 ) and 4th subwoofer amp replacing the one I sold to my neighbor.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

Hydraulic crimper........ for crimping wires?

And is the sound we're hearing in the video the speakers right above you in that kick ass baffle you made?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> Hydraulic crimper........ for crimping wires?
> 
> And is the sound we're hearing in the video the speakers right above you in that kick ass baffle you made?


I will never forget last year when I had 6 Optima Red Tops and I did the Big 3... with a vise grip. Pinch, squeeze, tighter, till it clamped. Release. Screw it in 2 turns to make it tighter, squeeze again...process repeat. Yup, terminal rings to wire

and nope, thats the factory speakers... the front stage should be so loud by itself it will make the camera distort


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

I use a bench vise for my large wire crimps  lol but I know where you're coming from.

Things are looking great as usual, have fun putting the speakers in upside down! lol


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

thats a pretty good idea actually... and im havin fun mounting the amps to 2x4s to the walls using different types of security screws..the speakers will be the easy part


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

One of the amps has a loose item floating inside, like a screw or something. I don't want to complain and send it back to have them crack the case and make sure it wasn't off of something and came out, I'd guess just dropped inside... but I don't want to void warranty and open it myself (if I even have a warranty). What should I do? This is what happened years ago with my first Lanzar OPTI2000D. Something was loose, but I hooked it to the Avalanche anyway. It worked fine. All a sudden it fried the sub then went to protect mode. It had a busted fan, overheated, shorted out, 12V DC to sub.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Looks good so far. i like the mounting idea work so far


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

thank you, been dreaming it up for years, got lucky, now its coming to reallity!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I've had a bunch of those drill bit extentions all over in my way, now that Ive needed one I cant find any of them. I have at least 5 different tool stashes and boxes..kept digging, none to be found. So I ran to walmart and bought one so I can actually tighten the amps down... at first glance these pics look the same, but they look way better now that they're not just hanging


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

My friend just grounded the parking brake to the ground for the HU. But I tested my wire and it has nothing, which means it wants power input, no?

the manual has a diagram showing the foot brake being spliced on the positive side after the switch before the lamp. The parking brake on the positive side after the lamp but before the switch. it's confusing! 


This is getting more complicated than I think it should be. The manual shows the yellow black wire sliced into the foot brake and the yellow blue spliced into the parking break. Are they both grounds? Are they both looking for power input? 1 ground and the other power input? The diagram is confusing in the maual. Google search yields:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/35852-alpine-iva-w505-37.html

Alpine IVA-W505 Parking Brake Bypass?

Ideas?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

The resin vapors were getting to me yesterday, the toggle switches have a lights DUH!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Alright I have 6 light up toggle swtiches. 1 for the super tweets, 1 for mid rangers, 1 for mid woofers, and 1 for subwoofers... so I can turn on any combination of them I want. Then I have 2 more for the video on the DVD player, 1 for foot pedal and 1 for parking brake.














































ripped the wire from the roof and burried in the dash


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)




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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

Please tell me you didn't just duct tape those toggle switch wires.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Austin said:


> Please tell me you didn't just duct tape those toggle switch wires.


as a matter of fact, I did. I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted it into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

While driving around, I turned the 4 remote toggles on to see how the lights held up with current draw. They got warm! WTF!Just 4 of the lights, as the other 2 need to be left off after doing the sequence. I'm worried now what'll happen when there's 7 amps hooked to them too.

Here it is: Avatar drivin in the car

YouTube - avatar.AVI


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

heres a vid of the toggle switch rig and doing the sequence to get video

YouTube - toggle sequence.AVI


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> as a matter of fact, I did. I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted it into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry.


It wasn't just because you used duct tape, i was mainly a bit concerned about whether or not you crimped or soldered then together before taping them.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I knew I should have made a comment that I didn't just twist N tape, but I didn't want o reopen all the threads and edit them all LOL. I know what you mean.. they look like theyd slide apart from the pic. 

I actually have a good process down, and i tried to take step-by-stp to show it...

1: untwist all wires
2: fan/frey them all out on a single plane..flat
3: 1/2 the wires (3) on 1 side, the main wire in the center, and the other 3 wires on the other side so the main wire is centered
4: lay all of them together tightly
5: twist till tight
6: once you have 1 solid twisted wire, then twist from the base up into a tight ball.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Austin said:


> It wasn't just because you used duct tape, i was mainly a bit concerned about whether or not you crimped or soldered then together before taping them.


 I still feel like I kinda went off on ya. It's a pet peeve. I HATE electrical tape! lol. I had to mess with it actually while doing this, cuz the wire I used for the toggles, the sun visor lamps, were wrapped in it... and the clips that held it to the body were wrapped in the tap, thats how they were held to the wire. It was cold yesterday, but yet tha damned tape was all gooey. I hate it!


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

sweet mother of jeebus.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

benny said:


> sweet mother of jeebus.


every time I've gotten a post like that till now I've known it was good. pretty sure its not with you. you still feel the need to click on my threads? are you a child? don't push the little red ****ing button. NO!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

The funny thing about that is, the e tape auto manufacturers use gets all gooey, but I've used Scotch Super 33+ and/or Temflex 1700 for years and it's not nearly as bad.

Jay


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

kryptonitewhite said:


> I knew I should have made a comment that I didn't just twist N tape, but I didn't want o reopen all the threads and edit them all LOL. I know what you mean.. they look like theyd slide apart from the pic.
> 
> I actually have a good process down, and i tried to take step-by-stp to show it...
> 
> ...



Dude......... no.


----------



## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.

Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.

So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better?

Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same **** everyone else sells.

END RANT


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

alright, i ran to walmart, they have 50 foot spools of 14 gauge scosche for $13 and 50 foot of 12 gauge for $18. its even pretty blue and silver. I think i have enough old yellow to do all this, but if not I can go get more at walmart. Ill take my 16 gauge bb back and get some movies if they let me. gonna go install some wire.


----------



## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

so, this morning i woke up motivated (usually it takes me a cpl hours, shower..check email, check forums, drive somewhere...then maybe start working) I was ready to grab the wire I got at BB and start running it. I spent all day running around town like a ree-ree, wasting time. I just grabbed my scrap 14 gauge I've had for years and ran it...all of it except the 2 tweeters... I haven't even opened the roll of yellow yet. It took me all of 10 minutes.

But I'll look at it this way... now i know walmart still carries the cheapest 14 gauge in town. I might get some DVDs instead of the 16 gauge. So the running around was worth it? IDK.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

I'm sorry Best Buy! I was steamed, now I'm good. Whenever I shop there, I hear so much about how much better than Walmart BB is. But it's not. So I took the wire back, it' a non-return item, but she did anyway..and it was a rewards purchase, so i need to wait for the awards to be reissued. I picked up Inside Man with the cash portion of the refund, and I'll get The Incredible Hulk or something with the rewards.

I forgot to mension I ordered another roll of 50ft 0 gauge, same place, same wire.


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

i have no idea whats going on with the battle but.... i have used electrical tape, i have used duct, i have used gorilla tape... as long as it holds, i don't have a problem using whatever. I've never had a problem with any of it myself, when i do installs on other people's cars, i ask them what they would prefer me to use and i do that. Some say use electrical, others say duct because "it will never come apart"... if it works, it works


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

MTopper said:


> i have no idea whats going on with the battle but.... i have used electrical tape, i have used duct, i have used gorilla tape... as long as it holds, i don't have a problem using whatever. I've never had a problem with any of it myself, when i do installs on other people's cars, i ask them what they would prefer me to use and i do that. Some say use electrical, others say duct because "it will never come apart"... if it works, it works


o ya? well do you crimp or solder?!

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


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## MTopper (Nov 4, 2009)

Depends on what wiring i'm using and what i'm hooking up. i usually solder a wires that run accessories such as LEDs, switches, and speakers running off the HU. I do crimp the power/ground wires which is a pain because i only have a bench vice


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

i just tape them together


muahahahaha~!


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

because you don't know how to solder?


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

yes, and because I'm too lazy. It's weird I passed my tests with flying colors after my 2 day intensive training at sencore... we only had to fill the barrels 75% yet I always filled them past 90% and 100% on wetting. Through hole I found much easier, surface mount pisses me off. Yet I can't solder tinsel leads on a recone worth a crap. My welding sucks too, but, i always make 2 pieces of metal stick together.
edit: can't type either


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

audio is terrible, old camera

my X doing my soldering for me

YouTube - megan using the new gun to get the old leads off, man battery powered was the wrong choice! just a few seconds! Thanks ROE!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

twice the coil...hmmmm...


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

Are you retarded or just extremely stupid? No joke.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

kryptonitewhite said:


> I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.
> 
> Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.
> 
> ...


I quit using the Walmart junk because it was bad about corroding inside the jacket. Never had that issue with Monster so that's pretty much all I run. Not sure how the humidity is where you are but it's insane here. I know that had a lot to do with it.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

benny said:


> Are you retarded or just extremely stupid? No joke.





lilmsprelude said:


> Yes ....
> 
> 
> and yes.......
> ...



Why poke fun guys? Just why? I expect more out of this forum, especially from veterans such as yourselves. If you don't like what the guy is doing, then just stay out of the thread, it's that easy. No need to come in here being Negative Nancy about everything and criticizing the guy. He's just building a daily ground pounder that he's having fun with. No need to expect a show vehicle from him, he's obviously on a budget (like 98% of the rest of us here). If you don't like his actions, then politely tell him why something is wrong or why that won't work, instead of attempting to insult the guy. If you don't have anything positive to say, then just move on. It's not your vehicle, equipment, time or money, but rather his.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

there's a vast difference between a show vehicle and a death trap.



sometimes.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

benny said:


> Are you retarded or just extremely stupid? No joke.


bitc h I told you stay the **** off my threads.

if this guy continues to post in my threads I will delete this forum off of my list as i have several others. I don't need **** like this on my threads.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I quit using the Walmart junk because it was bad about corroding inside the jacket. Never had that issue with Monster so that's pretty much all I run. Not sure how the humidity is where you are but it's insane here. I know that had a lot to do with it.


The wire I have is 6 years old, all I had to do was cut an inch or so off the ends and its all good


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> Why poke fun guys? Just why? I expect more out of this forum, especially from veterans such as yourselves. If you don't like what the guy is doing, then just stay out of the thread, it's that easy. No need to come in here being Negative Nancy about everything and criticizing the guy. He's just building a daily ground pounder that he's having fun with. No need to expect a show vehicle from him, he's obviously on a budget (like 98% of the rest of us here). If you don't like his actions, then politely tell him why something is wrong or why that won't work, instead of attempting to insult the guy. If you don't have anything positive to say, then just move on. It's not your vehicle, equipment, time or money, but rather his.


perfectly out. thank you very much!


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

chad said:


> there's a vast difference between a show vehicle and a death trap.
> 
> 
> 
> sometimes.


you ned to stop posting here as well. If this isn't cleaned up by the end of today this forum is deleted off th list.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

kryptonitewhite said:


> you ned to stop posting here as well.



Why? Why? think about it man I pointed out that it's a hazard and it's WRONG there's NOTHING wrong with that, I did not go into a cursing rage. Get over it, it's WRONG. you are using an Un-secure connection method in a vehicle that you know damn good and well is going to shake like CRAZY..... THEN you are gonna have innocent people in and out of it to demo, possibly compete.

Sorry to come off crass but damn man, it's common sense.

It's one thing to look at the advice given or use said common sense, it's another thing to support with great diligence something that's completely WRONG.

Don't tell me what I need to do.




kryptonitewhite said:


> If this isn't cleaned up by the end of today this forum is deleted off th list.


This should be good.


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

chad said:


> Why? Why? think about it man I pointed out that it's a hazard and it's WRONG there's NOTHING wrong with that, I did not go into a cursing rage. Get over it, it's WRONG. you are using an Un-secure connection method in a vehicle that you know damn good and well is going to shake like CRAZY..... THEN you are gonna have innocent people in and out of it to demo, possibly compete.
> 
> Sorry to come off crass but damn man, it's common sense.
> 
> ...


This forum is deleted.

I'm done here.


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## PhatBass (Nov 23, 2009)

Ive been viewing this thread, and Krip dont take offense to these guys. They are just not used to people doing things their own way, but they make good points. Seriously if "you waited YEARS" for this build why are you half assing you **** and jumping at every chance you have to use duct tape and expanding foam. Why are you in such a rush to finish your "dream build"?

BTW Are you here to get feedback and try to get some tips on needed subjects or are you trying to be an arrogant ******* who takes offense to his obvious failure of addressing safety?


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## trevordj (Feb 22, 2009)

:lurk:

I am just waiting to see the cat pics.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

chad said:


> Why? Why? think about it man I pointed out that it's a hazard and it's WRONG there's NOTHING wrong with that, I did not go into a cursing rage. Get over it, it's WRONG. you are using an Un-secure connection method in a vehicle that you know damn good and well is going to shake like CRAZY..... THEN you are gonna have innocent people in and out of it to demo, possibly compete.
> 
> Sorry to come off crass but damn man, it's common sense.
> 
> ...


This.

It's the "haters gonna hate" attitude that closes people's minds. That ball of wiring...    But it's just "haters gonna hate," right?


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Glassin cardboard.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

that sure don't look like glass


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

You're right, I jumped the gun. That's resin curing, waiting for the mat.

4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 13


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

resin....... that's what you kids call it these days?


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

I don't know it by any other name


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## Knobby Digital (Aug 17, 2008)




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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

kryptonitewhite said:


> This forum is deleted.
> 
> I'm done here.


Don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out, retard.


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## rhystard (Apr 15, 2010)

ok, so i'm not the only one questioning "wire balls" in something that i'm pretty sure could vibrate hard enough to give you cancer?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

rhystard said:


> ok, so i'm not the only one questioning "wire balls" in something that i'm pretty sure could vibrate hard enough to give you cancer?


that's so flippin siggable... well done.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Knobby Digital said:


>


Hahaha Right on.


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## imjustjason (Jun 26, 2006)




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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

He got butthurt and left SSA today, too :laugh:

They ("we") were even kinder over there than here, but he still can't deal with any suggestions/comments no matter how nicely put


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

da beeted.


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## dantonel (Mar 30, 2010)

Aww man... I wanted to see the end result too... (A ball of fire and a faint recollection of a van and $10,000 worth of useless equipment) (and a ball of flaming duct tape) Obviously these pictures would be posted by one of his Friend Girls (or whatever he calls them)


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## rhystard (Apr 15, 2010)

for amusement you can still watch ****ty videos that he uploads to youtube.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

wow i am really surprised he ran off so quick... while i was interested in his build, it was more out of sheer enjoyment seeing the uncanny ideas this guy had... 

i don't know, as I've never done one, but isn't there an easier way to do a "wall" in a van? all that spray foam and 2x4's... at the rate he's going it's gonna be a long time before he finishes, and then there's the question of the end product. seriously, what was it going to look like?


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

dantonel said:


> Aww man... I wanted to see the end result too... (A ball of fire and a faint recollection of a van and $10,000 worth of useless equipment) (and a ball of flaming duct tape) Obviously these pictures would be posted by one of his Friend Girls (or whatever he calls them)


Would love to be there when he really gets on it the first time :laugh:


rhystard said:


> for amusement you can still watch ****ty videos that he uploads to youtube.


Check out his Photobucket, too 


mattyjman said:


> wow i am really surprised he ran off so quick... while i was interested in his build, it was more out of sheer enjoyment seeing the uncanny ideas this guy had...
> 
> i don't know, as I've never done one, but isn't there an easier way to do a "wall" in a van? all that spray foam and 2x4's... at the rate he's going it's gonna be a long time before he finishes, and then there's the question of the end product. seriously, what was it going to look like?


lol I swore I wouldn't pay attention, then I kept clicking every time it was bumped for some lawls :laugh:

He was basically trying to build a box inside the van...since (I guess) the proper way is either sealing the windows shut permanently or doing it right the first time and buying a molester van...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

"Loudmouth Big Daddy" did not say **** till the wiring topic came up... Other than that he could drop a small block in it. Which would still be totally kickass.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

Like mjgonegm for SPL.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

fourthmeal said:


> Like mjgonegm for SPL.


translation?


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## mitchjr (Mar 8, 2010)

I cant believe no one was gettin on his case 8 pages ago when he posted 75 of the exact same pic of his window, then 30 more of the disastrous looking inside with foam everywhere. what a d-bag.


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## so cal eddie (Oct 1, 2008)

I'm not trying to jump on the "making fun" bandwagon, but using duct tape instead of electrical tape would have him thrown off a job site in no time here in California. Maybe in other states they allow it, but here the inspectors are very picky. Anyway, I was looking forward to his work. It looks like a fun project for a diyer.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Well the reasoning is obscure with the"goo factor."

I have cleaned countless feet of Duct Tape goo off of stage cables and electrical tape goo does not hold a candle to the hell of backed on duct tape goo.

And if you wanna argue with me over this. Cable cleaning time is coming here at work. I pay in ham sammiches and beer.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

chad said:


> Well the reasoning is obscure with the"goo factor."
> 
> I have cleaned countless feet of Duct Tape goo off of stage cables and electrical tape goo does not hold a candle to the hell of backed on duct tape goo.
> 
> And if you wanna argue with me over this. Cable cleaning time is coming here at work. *I pay in ham sammiches and beer.*


Im in!


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

mattyjman said:


> translation?



There was a guy on here named "mjgonegm", who even had his own "shop". I'll let the hilarity ensure within your own research.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

FYI there are two easy goo removers. One is, ostensibly, Goo Gone (always in my arsenal, and I bet in yours too.) the other is Febreeze. Yes, that's right. It isn't as powerful, but it still works and it doesn't rot your hands nearly as bad.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

fourthmeal said:


> There was a guy on here named "mjgonegm", who even had his own "shop". I'll let the hilarity ensure within your own research.


Without the BawBox debauchery it's almost moot..... that's where the true MJ shined on for all to see.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

fourthmeal said:


> FYI there are two easy goo removers. One is, ostensibly, Goo Gone (always in my arsenal, and I bet in yours too.) the other is Febreeze. Yes, that's right. It isn't as powerful, but it still works and it doesn't rot your hands nearly as bad.


Beer and ham sammiches.. I'll supply the goo gone and febreeze  

I have found whatever substance they put on bar floors of which 3 ingredients known to promote adhesion as puke, juice, and beer, is an "activator" for duct tape adhesive.


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## dantonel (Mar 30, 2010)

fourthmeal said:


> FYI there are two easy goo removers. One is, ostensibly, Goo Gone (always in my arsenal, and I bet in yours too.) the other is Febreeze. Yes, that's right. It isn't as powerful, but it still works and it doesn't rot your hands nearly as bad.


You can buy this stuff at the 99Cents only stores called (and I $#!t you not) "Totally Awesome" It's a de-greaser and at 10-1 mix can remove almost anything: Sticker adhesive, Headliner spills (was there when I bought it), and yes, the wretched Duct tape adhesive... Shoot, at 2-1 it can take off Engine grease, and all for just 99 cents only!!


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## sinister mob (Jan 11, 2010)

The build reminded me of when I was 10 and I found scrap pieces of wood, carpet, and shingles to build a fort. Kind of the same approach but built on 4 wheels and adding voltage.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

dantonel said:


> You can buy this stuff at the 99Cents only stores called (and I $#!t you not) "Totally Awesome" It's a de-greaser and at 10-1 mix can remove almost anything: Sticker adhesive, Headliner spills (was there when I bought it), and yes, the wretched Duct tape adhesive... Shoot, at 2-1 it can take off Engine grease, and all for just 99 cents only!!



Will probably cause cancer down the road though.


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## AdamTaylor (Sep 7, 2008)

fourthmeal said:


> Will probably cause cancer down the road though.


guess thats the price you pay


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## dantonel (Mar 30, 2010)

... I feel funny....


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## rhystard (Apr 15, 2010)

i like this place.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

I love how this thread has been getting so many hits lately...


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

It may be worth epicness, time shall tell. With the OP gone, now we're just f-ing around. But maybe this thread could be used as a "what NOT to do" type of thing.


You remember our other "freestyle installer" yoursogangsta? See, he's an example of what IS ok, even with wild install methods. So there's your yin-yang right there.


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## rhystard (Apr 15, 2010)

i don't agree with bashing anything that someone is doing, really. everyone has their own style and methods of doing things.

for example; i have no clue what i'm doing, and i hope that any comments people have for me would be constructive criticism. 

some of you guys are solder crazy. i don't like soldering joints, because i have personally found that they don't handle vibrations, and even with proper heatshrinking they tend to corrode after a couple years.

i believe in butt connectors, knowing how to crimp, and adhesive heatshrink tubing. 

i hope you don't hold it against me 

but i DO NOT believe in twsting everything into a ball of danger, and wrapping it in silver ****. you should be ridiculed for that one.


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Summary after taking literally 20 seconds to find his Photobucket:




























Still going at it with the same Great Stuff foam, even after starting the thread here about it never drying. Even got some good advice, but obviously ignored it.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

rhystard said:


> some of you guys are solder crazy. i don't like soldering joints, because i have personally found that they don't handle vibrations, and even with proper heatshrinking they tend to corrode after a couple years.
> 
> i believe in butt connectors, knowing how to crimp, and adhesive heatshrink tubing.


Guilty solder nut.... using the right stuff and techniques helps, big time.

That being said, IF you crimp properly, i.e. with REAL crimpers not the stupid ones but good ratchet crimpers and good connectors then you are golden. Unfortunately it's expensive, I guess as are great soldering irons, but crimping works, and if it works in fuggin fighter jets.. then yeah.

Can't hold crimping against you if you use the good **** 

I'm still a soldering fool, I can solder your **** to your forehead


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

dudes come on... he's got a girl to impress 

don't be so hard on him, maybe he never took the chance to read any of the posts on this forum... it's not his fault you know. 

but seriously... wtf. i was cautiously watching this thread from the start, but soon after lost interest. now it's back in full swing!! thanks for making this place a fun one to hang out on


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## rhystard (Apr 15, 2010)

honestly, i don't even bother with the ratcheting crimpers. if you double crimp each side, and PAY ATTENTION to where the seam of the butt connector is, things work great. put some HS tube on there and i've had a tug of war with 12 gauge speaker wire before. the wire usually ends up breaking in the middle :laugh:


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

I am actually never going to crimp with crappy crimpers again. I'm sticking with soldering. I just had to upgrade my fog light wires because they would heat up excessively. Not only was the wire that came in the kit too small, but at every crimp connector i had on there it was browned from heat. One melted through some split loom!

Scary stuff. I could only imagine what sort of bad connection that ball of twisted wires was and the heat it would generate once they all sort of loosened up in that ball. Can you say POOF ball of flames?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

rhystard said:


> honestly, i don't even bother with the ratcheting crimpers. if you double crimp each side, and PAY ATTENTION to where the seam of the butt connector is, things work great. put some HS tube on there and i've had a tug of war with 12 gauge speaker wire before. the wire usually ends up breaking in the middle :laugh:


Buy some great crimpers, it's a one time buy because they ROCK forever. It's worth it, trust me


----------



## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

ryan s said:


>


I wonder what they're letting that baby drink back there...


----------



## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

mountain dew


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## slade1274 (Mar 25, 2008)

Naw... Jack n Coke... but it's diet coke.


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## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

chad said:


> mountain dew


:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

chad said:


> mountain dew





tintbox said:


> :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


I don't get it...? :shrug:


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

chithead said:


> I wonder what they're letting that baby drink back there...


OH ****...I didn't even see the baby till you mentioned it :surprised: :laugh:


slade1274 said:


> Naw... Jack n Coke... but it's diet coke.


Can't have kids drinking that unhealthy stuff  :laugh:


Austin said:


> I don't get it...? :shrug:


It's a Taco Bell cup...there's only one drink you get at T-Bell...Mountain Dew Baja Blast!


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

ryan s said:


> It's a Taco Bell cup...there's only one drink you get at T-Bell...Mountain Dew Baja Blast!


Oh i see. lol that's true.


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## mr.metoo (Feb 20, 2010)

I dont post here much but lol at guy getting butt hurt. Seems to me as if people were actually trying to help him out, just sucks to see that with such a big build he used cheap materials and some crappy methods.


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

bump for some fun


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## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

Too bad he's got nothing new in his Photobucket as of a couple days ago.

Scary thing though...he's working on other people's cars now :surprised:

Check out the 300M...3 subs in a _single _3/4" MDF baffle, held in with only construction adhesive! :laugh:


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

JESSH  OMG


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## dyceskynes (Jul 20, 2010)

Total Ass Hat


----------



## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

first peep just now,

awesome.

10/10 for effort and enthusiasm

1/10 for research and application.

15hz? isnt that 1hz lower then the infamous iasca canon???!!

why 15 ????


----------



## SWINE (Aug 29, 2008)

OMG!


----------



## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

YouTube - ‪147.7 23Hz hair trick unintentional.AVI‬‎

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4QjI1wjej4

And to make it easy for others to see pictures:

http://s898.photobucket.com/home/kryptonitewhite222s/allalbums


----------



## tintbox (Oct 25, 2008)

Wow!


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

interesting....


----------



## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

He seems to be a decent guy. I think it was a project where the intent was to be different then everybody else.


----------



## Mako312 (May 10, 2010)

I hope he blows his subs with all that clipping.


----------



## cubdenno (Nov 10, 2007)

what clipping?
he actually has to much power on those subs in that config


----------



## Mako312 (May 10, 2010)

cubdenno said:


> what clipping?
> he actually has to much power on those subs in that config


Doesnt it say in the vid that he's clipping them bad?


----------



## ryan s (Dec 19, 2006)

In the comments in that vid, he posted he needs recones :laugh:


----------



## Rob J (Jul 18, 2010)

WOW, I read this guys thread about those monster boxes he built in his Living Room, and now this.

This guy wins the Ultimate "Rig-O-Nometry" award.

And to boot, he's a total nut job!!!!

Wow, just Wow.

And to think he actually fathered a child. Very sad, and scary at the same time. Poor kid won't have a chance.


----------



## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

yeah, conception should have an IQ test :| really, and it worrys me even more that he is working on other peoples cars...REALLY?


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## bumpinP (May 5, 2010)

Just imagine what he'd accomplish if he was motivated everyday. This thread had me cracking up, it's a real shame you guys had to question his genius.



kryptonitewhite said:


> so, this morning i woke up motivated (usually it takes me a cpl hours, shower..check email, check forums, drive somewhere...then maybe start working) I was ready to grab the wire I got at BB and start running it. I spent all day running around town like a ree-ree, wasting time. I just grabbed my scrap 14 gauge I've had for years and ran it...all of it except the 2 tweeters... I haven't even opened the roll of yellow yet. It took me all of 10 minutes.
> 
> But I'll look at it this way... now i know walmart still carries the cheapest 14 gauge in town. I might get some DVDs instead of the 16 gauge. So the running around was worth it? IDK.


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## bumpinP (May 5, 2010)

signature worthy


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## kryptonitewhite (May 9, 2008)

sup cub! screw those guys, they think they know more than they actually do.

this guy must have messed up too, cuz he managed to over excurt a level 6 with 2 5k amps

YouTube - Death of a DC LVL 6!


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## mattyjman (Aug 6, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> sup cub! screw those guys, they think they know more than they actually do.
> 
> this guy must have messed up too, cuz he managed to over excurt a level 6 with 2 5k amps
> 
> YouTube - Death of a DC LVL 6!


is this one of your friends? seems to be as smart as you, prolly hang out in the same club huh?


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

kryptonitewhite said:


> sup cub! screw those guys, they think they know more than they actually do.
> 
> this guy must have messed up too, cuz he managed to over excurt a level 6 with 2 5k amps
> 
> YouTube - Death of a DC LVL 6!


I would imagine any sub over excurting with 10k watts on it while trying to play a very low frequency like he did in this video.


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