# Mazda 2018 CX-3, new build... the key is SQ, but still get loud



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I sold my Jeep because of a plan to move to Costa Rica... The move has been postponed 6-12 months, so I bought this cute little thing to get around in. It's a Mazda CX-3 Touring Edition in ceramic. The interior is quite stunning and high quality, so I'm gonna try really hard to blend everything in to oem.

_AND of course the audio sounds like a fat girl's ass cheeks slapping together as she let's out a high pitched fart._ :surprised:

I have no idea where I am going with this yet, but I'd love some ideas from you guys. I spent about $6k in materials and equipment on each of my my previous two builds, but since this one is kinda temporary, I want to try to keep it a little on the budget side... All work will be done by me, so there are no install costs, just the cost of goods!

The dash looks like some 1" tweets could fit easily and I think the doors have room for 6.5"s. 
OR put the tweets in the sail panels and leave the factory tweets for phone and such...

I'm probably gonna use a DAP as source, connected to DSP and leave the factory system functional and intact. It's connected to the bu camera, blind spot warning system, NAV, phone etc.

That's as far as I've got in terms of ideas, as I just picked it up last night! Here are some pics.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I took some measurements of the storage space that is under the cover in the trunk. I have got 37" wide x 23" deep x 5-6" high. 

Looks like an adequate amount of room for a low profile sub like the Sundown SD3 or one of JLs... I could maybe do two 10"s in a sealed box...

SD3 SERIES


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm leaning toward Audio Frog GS line for the front stage... The tweeters would fit well on the sails and blend well with the interior. 
I still need to pull the door panel and see if I have some depth behind the sails to recess the tweeters or if I need to surface mount them.
The doors will definitely hold a 6.5" with a depth up to at least 3.25"...


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

two jl tw3 tens sealed in that space would be a nice situation to find yourself in..


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lycancatt said:


> two jl tw3 tens sealed in that space would be a nice situation to find yourself in..


I have never owned JL subs, but the more I look in to their low profile offerings, the more I think you are absolutely right on...


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

the tw3 really impressed me for output and desent sound quality. 3 in a bmw 3 series makes a right jolly big noise..two in a hatch would be very nice.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lycancatt said:


> the tw3 really impressed me for output and desent sound quality. 3 in a bmw 3 series makes a right jolly big noise..two in a hatch would be very nice.


I bet. I could wire them to 1 ohm and feed them 1100 watts from something like the Arc XDi 1100.1...


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

in 2 tunes I did recently for sis we had that exact set up in a truck downfiring, and the three in a bmw is also run off that arc amp..it handles three well..2 can be overpowered by that amp if gains aren't a bit conservative.


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## mrichard89 (Sep 29, 2016)

Audiofrog GS setup with Jl 10tw3's would be an awesome budget build!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The trunk could look something like this (excuse my quick and dirty drawing)...

I happen to have a brand new cover to an Arc XDi 600.4 from a previous build, and since the MiniDSP is nothing to look at and it would take a way from the clean linear look of the XDi amps, I would use the cover to hide the DSP.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Very nice, am looking forward to seeing what’s the final equipment decision.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Very nice, am looking forward to seeing what’s the final equipment decision.


I'm thinking the following equipment should make for a good 2way:

Audio Frog GS tweeters and midbass, Arc amps, MiniDSP and two JL 10" TW3s



As far as the rest of it:

I have been wanting to try Soundskins sound deadening
Home - SoundSkins
I really like Stinger 8000 rcas; KnuKoncepts Karma speaker wire and 0 gauge cable. 
Like I said, I'll use a Fiio X3 as source.

I'll have to find a place on the dash for the X3 and also somewhere easy-to-reach for the MiniDSP remote, because I will need to use its volume.


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## TerryGreen5986 (Jun 23, 2017)

DavidRam said:


> I'm thinking the following equipment should make for a good 2way:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Just wanted to share my experience. I originally grabbed the GS midbass and tweets. Changed to the GB tweets and it was a big difference. May wanna consider spending the little extra for the tweets. Midbass I can’t speak for. Im happy with my GS mids


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Just wanted to share my experience. I originally grabbed the GS midbass and tweets. Changed to the GB tweets and it was a big difference. May wanna consider spending the little extra for the tweets. Midbass I can’t speak for. Im happy with my GS mids
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the tip! Are you running them in a 2way active?


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## TerryGreen5986 (Jun 23, 2017)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks for the tip! Are you running them in a 2way active?




Yes sir, for now. I do want to add midranges for 3 way tho. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Very nice. Mazda has really impressed me recently in terms of design/styling and stepping up their quality. Those are two of the key things that has us shopping for a gently used 6 GT for my wife. 

I know you probably haven't opened up the dash yet, but do you think their might be room to run something like the Audible Physics Ram 2.6 Q? Or perhaps use the same with pods on the sails?

And if you're trying to keep the budget down due to the temporary nature of the install, you might consider a lower cost amp line like the Zapco ST-X. A lot of bang for your buck out of that line.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Very nice. Mazda has really impressed me recently in terms of design/styling and stepping up their quality. Those are two of the key things that has us shopping for a gently used 6 GT for my wife.
> 
> I know you probably haven't opened up the dash yet, but do you think their might be room to run something like the Audible Physics Ram 2.6 Q? Or perhaps use the same with pods on the sails?
> 
> And if you're trying to keep the budget down due to the temporary nature of the install, you might consider a lower cost amp line like the Zapco ST-X. A lot of bang for your buck out of that line.


Hadn't thought about the Zapcos... Thanks! You aren't kidding about bang for buck! They are literally half the price of the Arcs apples-to-apples (more or less).


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Hadn't thought about the Zapcos... Thanks! You aren't kidding about bang for buck! They are literally half the price of the Arcs apples-to-apples (more or less).


Take it for what it is worth... Matt Hall ranked the Arc XDi 450.4 in Tier C and the Zapco ST-4X SQ in Tier A when he did his "High Value Amplifier Shootout" earlier this year. His other Tier A amps were the Sony XM-GS4 and DLS CC44.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Very nice. Mazda has really impressed me recently in terms of design/styling and stepping up their quality. Those are two of the key things that has us shopping for a gently used 6 GT for my wife.


Yep, Mazda's designs are much nicer than the other Japanese offerings, atm. The interior on this thing is stunning and the all around initial quality seems really good. 
They are known for the their handling and this one does not disappoint. It feels nothing short of a upper end sports car, especially after spending a couple years in a lifted Wrangler! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I know you probably haven't opened up the dash yet, but do you think their might be room to run something like the Audible Physics Ram 2.6 Q? Or perhaps use the same with pods on the sails?


Not familiar with those... From the pictures they look to be a larger format tweeter?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Take it for what it is worth... Matt Hall ranked the Arc XDi 450.4 in Tier C and the Zapco ST-4X SQ in Tier A when he did his "High Value Amplifier Shootout" earlier this year. His other Tier A amps were the Sony XM-GS4 and DLS CC44.


That's cool! I have always, only used class Ds and never used class A/Bs. Is there something I should be aware of with class A/Bs?


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Yep, Mazda's designs are much nicer than the other Japanese offerings, atm. The interior on this thing is stunning and the all around initial quality seems really good.
> They are known for the their handling and this one does not disappoint. It feels nothing short of a upper end sports car, especially after spending a couple years in a lifted Wrangler! Lol


off topic, but i shopped Cx3, Cx5 and the new2018 crosstrek and found the crosstrek to be the winner. And i hated subaru until this new 18 came out.

Good luck with your build!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

miniSQ said:


> off topic, but i shopped Cx3, Cx5 and the new2018 crosstrek and found the crosstrek to be the winner. And i hated subaru until this new 18 came out.
> 
> Good luck with your build!!


Thanks!

Actually, I was considering the Crosstrek as well... If I lived somewhere were there was snow (or even rain) I would have chosen the Crosstrek too.


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Actually, I was considering the Crosstrek as well... If I lived somewhere were there was snow (or even rain) I would have chosen the Crosstrek too.



agreed and if i lived somewhere without snow i would have considered the mazda


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I've made up my mind, the tweeters will definitely be going on the sails, rather than on/in the dash... So the smaller the better. 

This will allow me to leave the factory tweeters in the dash and rear speakers intact for phone calls, lane departure warning beeps and back up camera beeps. 

This tweeter placement puts them close to the midbass, will allow me to aim them properly and takes them away from the windshield.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*Who do you guys recommend I buy the equipment from??

Audio Frog speakers

Zapco St-x amps

JL audio subs

Member/dealers on here, or ecommerce sites with best pricing??*


Edit: here's my shopping list so far...

Audiofrog - GB10 tweeters & GS60

Zapco amps - (1) ST-4X P, (1) ST-1000XMII

JL Audio - (2) TW3 10"


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

To me it depends on what I want out of it. I’ve never used a manufacturer warranty, and don’t mind buying from well established Diyma people. Although I would only want to do this once so I would do new.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> To me it depends on what I want out of it. I’ve never used a manufacturer warranty, and don’t mind buying from well established Diyma people. Although I would only want to do this once so I would do new.


I'm with you on that... I general don't buy used. Also, I would much rather support smaller dealers and/or diyma members.


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## Aaron Clinton (Oct 17, 2006)

*Nice car, (mazda fan here). Tuned in for the install. Would be cool to see some SSA in there.*


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Aaron Clinton said:


> *Nice car, (mazda fan here). Tuned in for the install. Would be cool to see some SSA in there.*


Thanks!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

So it settled lol, new gear via small dealers and DIYMA members. Let the enjoyment begin.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Not familiar with those... From the pictures they look to be a larger format tweeter?


They use a 2" cone wideband driver in lieu of a traditional tweeter. 



DavidRam said:


> That's cool! I have always, only used class Ds and never used class A/Bs. Is there something I should be aware of with class A/Bs?


I'm not one to get caught up in the hype and hyperbole surround amp classification. The biggest advantages to a good quality class D (in my mind) are typically a smaller footprint and higher efficiency for less current draw. I think a well designed class D can and will be indistinguishable from a good class AB amp for 99% of the people in a blind test. 

In your case, with such a simple install, I wouldn't be concerned as much about amp class, as I would making sure all of the other features of the amp (footprint, power, crossover defeat, etc.) meet your needs. I think right now, the Zapco ST-X line represents some of the "bang for the buck" in car audio right now. 



DavidRam said:


> I've made up my mind, the tweeters will definitely be going on the sails, rather than on/in the dash... So the smaller the better.
> 
> This will allow me to leave the factory tweeters in the dash and rear speakers intact for phone calls, lane departure warning beeps and back up camera beeps.
> 
> This tweeter placement puts them close to the midbass, will allow me to aim them properly and takes them away from the windshield.


If that is the case, I would probably skip the APs I mentioned previously. Your best bet is going to be selecting a reasonably sized tweeter capable of playing fairly low. That would allow you to mount the tweeter on the sails and play low enough to mate with your 6.5s before beaming becomes a large concern.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> *Who do you guys recommend I buy the equipment from??
> 
> Audio Frog speakers
> 
> ...



I would talk with John at JT Audio & Accessories. I believe he is your nearest Audiofrog dealer. He can also help with recommendations on some of the other equipment. 

One suggestion I would make is to switch the tweeter to the larger GB15. It is designed to play lower and works better in a two way installation.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> They use a 2" cone wideband driver in lieu of a traditional tweeter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





rton20s said:


> I would talk with John at JT Audio & Accessories. I believe he is your nearest Audiofrog dealer. He can also help with recommendations on some of the other equipment.
> 
> One suggestion I would make is to switch the tweeter to the larger GB15. It is designed to play lower and works better in a two way installation.


Thanks for all the great tips! I didn't know John was a AF dealer too... I know he has Mosconi and Illusion...


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Thanks for all the great tips! I didn't know John was a AF dealer too... I know he has Mosconi and Illusion...


No problem. I know he has picked up AF, and I believe he has been picking up a couple other lines over the last few months as well. Get hooked up with him, if you can. He won't steer you wrong.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> No problem. I know he has picked up AF, and I believe he has been picking up a couple other lines over the last few months as well. Get hooked up with him, if you can. He won't steer you wrong.


For sure... I met up with him once to get a Mosconi amp. Awesome guy!


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Since your coming from a sundown z series on 2kw I would at least do 12tw3's or go ported with the 10"s. I have a 12tw3 running off an old alpine mrv-m1200 and it leaves me wanting more a fair amount of the time.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

555nova said:


> Since your coming from a sundown z series on 2kw I would at least do 12tw3's or go ported with the 10"s. I have a 12tw3 running off an old alpine mrv-m1200 and it leaves me wanting more a fair amount of the time.


That has been my question and concern... The bass was insane in the Jeep and I REALLY enjoyed it. But it set the bar really high.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Given your likely available air space and tight constraints, I would probably stick with a pair of shallow or semi-shallow 10s sealed. Most likely to give you the best combination of SQ and SPL, IMHO. 

While more expensive than the JL, I would also consider the Oncore SM10.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Given your likely available air space and tight constraints, I would probably stick with a pair of shallow or semi-shallow 10s sealed. Most likely to give you the best combination of SQ and SPL, IMHO.
> 
> While more expensive than the JL, I would also consider the Oncore SM10.


True. I think (hope) the 2 tens should be good... I am definitely going into this with lower expectations, at least bass wise, than the Jeep. SQ wise, it should be better and easier to tune than the Jeep, as it took countless hours in REW and pretty heavy EQing to get the Jeep sounding great.

Also, the Jeep was a much noisier vehicle than this Mazda.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

It looks like there is a sale on the TW3s... Crutchfield and Woofersetc are showing them at $299.

JL Audio's home site and Online Car Stereo are showing it at $254 shipped, no tax. Sonix is showing it on sale, but out of stock.

10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio

JL Audio 10TW3-D4 (92184) Shallow-mount 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils 800W Peak Power at Onlinecarstereo.com


I should probably make up my damn mind and pull the trigger...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I am planning on building the sub box myself, which would be my first one... 

*How do i figure the air space if I am combining two subs in one sealed enclosure?? Is it any different than just doubling what one needs?? OR am I better off separating them within the enclosure??*


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

If you're set on the TW3s, I would probably go ahead and order directly from JL. If Sonic had them in stock, I could probably get you a small discount with my code, but the wait wouldn't be worth it. It may also be worth checking to see if Crutchfield will price match or beat JL. If you would prefer to buy from a vendor rather than direct.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> I am planning on building the sub box myself, which would be my first one...
> 
> *How do i figure the air space if I am combining two subs in one sealed enclosure?? Is it any different than just doubling what one needs?? OR am I better off separating them within the enclosure??*


The easiest way to build the enclosure would be in a single volume. Required air space is simply doubled. My rough calculations showed that you would probably have about 1.25CF of volume once you have up room for amplifiers and a processor. To calculate your total cubic feet, multiply the length x width x depth of the enclosure in inches and divide by 1728. And you can deduct about 0.04CF for total driver displacement on the pair of subs to get your net enclosure volume.

The advantage to having isolated air space for each subwoofer is that if they are wired independently and one fails the other will perform as usual and you will just be down on output. The other advantage is that the panel used to divide the two air spaces acts as a brace. But, you can just as easily brace an enclosure with a shared air volume.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> If you're set on the TW3s, I would probably go ahead and order directly from JL. If Sonic had them in stock, I could probably get you a small discount with my code, but the wait wouldn't be worth it. It may also be worth checking to see if Crutchfield will price match or beat JL. If you would prefer to buy from a vendor rather than direct.


I kinda like the idea of getting it directly from the JL. Plus, if Sonic is shipping from their CA location I'd have to add the tax, where as directly from JL in Florida there's no tax. 
Also, I think Crutchfield would add the tax (I could be wrong).


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> The easiest way to build the enclosure would be in a single volume. Required air space is simply doubled. My rough calculations showed that you would probably have about 1.25CF of volume once you have up room for amplifiers and a processor. To calculate your total cubic feet, multiply the length x width x depth of the enclosure in inches and divide by 1728. And you can deduct about 0.04CF for total driver displacement on the pair of subs to get your net enclosure volume.
> 
> The advantage to having isolated air space for each subwoofer is that if they are wired independently and one fails the other will perform as usual and you will just be down on output. The other advantage is that the panel used to divide the two air spaces acts as a brace. But, you can just as easily brace an enclosure with a shared air volume.


Great info, thanks!! I think you are right on with your calculations... JL is saying .5 cuft per woofer. 

Maybe, the shared space could make the wiring easier, as I have to wire them to 1 ohm?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> Great info, thanks!! I think you are right on with your calculations... JL is saying .5 cuft per woofer.
> 
> Maybe, the shared space could make the wiring easier, as I have to wire them to 1 ohm?


Wiring execution is only slightly more complicated if you're using separate chambers. Drill a hole and silicone it, or wire to posts/bolts on the exterior of the enclosure are a couple of options. 

In terms of the wiring for the subs, you have a couple of options. Voicecoils and subwoofers in parallel for a 1 ohm load or voicecoils in series and subwoofers in parallel for a 4 ohm load. You'll just have to choose the configuration that works best for whichever amp you choose. Or choose the amp based on the wiring and final load options. Most likely a mono amp wired at 1 ohm, because amps that supply 800+ watts at 4 ohm aren't as common or require a larger footprint and wallet.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Wiring execution is only slightly more complicated if you're using separate chambers. Drill a hole and silicone it, or wire to posts/bolts on the exterior of the enclosure are a couple of options.
> 
> In terms of the wiring for the subs, you have a couple of options. Voicecoils and subwoofers in parallel for a 1 ohm load or voicecoils in series and subwoofers in parallel for a 4 ohm load. You'll just have to choose the configuration that works best for whichever amp you choose. Or choose the amp based on the wiring and final load options. Most likely a mono amp wired at 1 ohm, because amps that supply 800+ watts at 4 ohm aren't as common or require a larger footprint and wallet.


Exactly. 

In the Zapco ST-X line their are two amps I'm looking at, one puts out 850 at 1 ohm, and the other 1000 at 1 ohm... 

JL is saying over 400 watts "warranty void", but I'm wondering if having that extra headroom on the 1000 watt amp might be the right way to go, despite the warning?

_Here they are: _

https://www.zapco.com/st-850-xm-ii

https://www.zapco.com/st-1000xm-ii


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

having heard 3 of the tw3 tens off an arc 1100.1 I think the smaller zapco is just right for them. the guy running three is not nice to his at all and they haven't let him down..but they might once he adds a fourth and puts it all on an arc 2500xxk lol..

I also agree if you can fit them, run the gb15 tweeters, the added response lower down over the gb 10 is a huge advantage for running two way.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lycancatt said:


> having heard 3 of the tw3 tens off an arc 1100.1 I think the smaller zapco is just right for them. the guy running three is not nice to his at all and they haven't let him down..but they might once he adds a fourth and puts it all on an arc 2500xxk lol..
> 
> I also agree if you can fit them, run the gb15 tweeters, the added response lower down over the gb 10 is a huge advantage for running two way.




Great, thanks for the input! I will try to fit the gb15s if possible... I think I can make them work... 

The two amps are so close in size...


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

I have a single 12tw3 powered by 1200watts for the last two years without any issue.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I think the ST-850XM would be completely sufficient. However, with the negligible size difference and minimal price difference, I would be tempted to step up to the ST-1000XM II. 

Now, if you really want me to throw a wrench in things... It looks like Zapco just released a new amp. The ST-6X SQ. So, the same upgraded components as the ST-4X SQ, but two more channels. Using that amp would allow you to bridge 4 channels to your mids (190W) and use two channels for your tweeters (65W). Keep in mind though, it is over 19" long (vs under 13") and I am not sure if it is even available for purchase yet.

Edit: Or just buy whatever John recommends within your budget.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I think the ST-850XM would be completely sufficient. However, with the negligible size difference and minimal price difference, I would be tempted to step up to the ST-1000XM II.
> 
> Now, if you really want me to throw a wrench in things... It looks like Zapco just released a new amp. The ST-6X SQ. So, the same upgraded components as the ST-4X SQ, but two more channels. Using that amp would allow you to bridge 4 channels to your mids (190W) and use two channels for your tweeters (65W). Keep in mind though, it is over 19" long (vs under 13") and I am not sure if it is even available for purchase yet.
> 
> Edit: Or just buy whatever John recommends within your budget.


I was thinking the same thing, if size and price is hardly any different, why not go for the 1000.

That's quite a wrench to throw in things, a 19" wrench! Lol! I'll check it out...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

555nova said:


> I have a single 12tw3 powered by 1200watts for the last two years without any issue.


Dayum! How's the output on that 12"??


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Dayum! How's the output on that 12"??


Like I said above, I like the sub I just wish I had 2 of them. I was pretty gentle with the gains. 

When I get around to doing a stereo in my new truck I'll either buy a second 12tw3 or figure out how to do 3 or 4 SA8's ported. I'm also really interested in how you like the GS series comps.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ordered the two JL Audio 10TW3s, $509 total shipped, on JLs home site. That's a damn good price, it would have been $653 from Crutchfield.


It looks like Woofersetc is the only place online showing Zapco amps...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*I just thought of something: 
I don't know if I can turn on the ignition without turning the engine on with this push button start system. Does anyone know if it's possible??*

I don't want the engine running while I tune, because I tune in my garage with the door closed, and... well... I don't want to die! Lol

Otherwise, for tuning purposes, I will probably need to run a second remote wire that I can turn on with a switch or something...


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

most push button cars wont start unless the brake is pushed down, so the accessory comes on when you push it once. I have not encountered a push button car that is any different.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lycancatt said:


> most push button cars wont start unless the brake is pushed down, so the accessory comes on when you push it once. I have not encountered a push button car that is any different.


Cool, that's good to know, thanks! Do you know if they typically stay on indefinitely?


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

usually they will stay on for 20 30 mins and flash a warning on the dash. I love tuning Priuses because when they get low on voltage they just start automaticly! scared the hell outa me first time but its handy.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lycancatt said:


> usually they will stay on for 20 30 mins and flash a warning on the dash. I love tuning Priuses because when they get low on voltage they just start automaticly! scared the hell outa me first time but its handy.


Lol. I can imagine...

I'm still considering a manual switch, too... Because I am not using the factory HU, I really don't even need the car on at all while I tune.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, the GB15 definitely will NOT fit, so the GB10 and GS60 it will have to be... 

Audiofrog GB10 & GS60, Zapco amps, Fiio X3 DAP, and MiniDSP are all on order. Next I have to order all the wire, connectors, sound deadening, etc.. I think I'll make KnuKonceptz my one-stop-shop for that stuff. 

Did you guys know that Madisound sells the MiniDSP now?


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

No I didn’t know that about the mini dsp, but glad that you’ve found a place to order your Zapco from.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The challenge in fitting tweeters in these small sails (see pic)... They are attached to the door panel, rather than separate pieces like I'm used to. 
I'm thinking about making my own aluminum pods using something like this (https://txmetal.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_218_223&product_id=2069), though my goal is for them to blend in and look as factory-ish as possible.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Now I am on the hunt for baltic birch plywood for the sub box... I think I'll use 3/4". Any thoughts on this?


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

For the birch, you might try checking with and local specialty lumber yards. I think they are more likely to carry what you are looking for than one of the national hardware stores. 

Which specific amps did you end up going with?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> For the birch, you might try checking with and local specialty lumber yards. I think they are more likely to carry what you are looking for than one of the national hardware stores.
> 
> Which specific amps did you end up going with?


Cool, I have a couple specialty lumber places around, I'll start making some calls... 

Amps:

Front - https://www.zapco.com/st-4x-p

Bass - https://www.zapco.com/st-1000xm-ii

Btw, Zapco has a line called STD. Lol

Edit: For some reason Woofersetc is showing this amp as having more power than Zapco's site says... Weird
ST-4X P - Zapco 4-Channel 480W RMS Class AB Amplifier


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Unfortunately documentation and consistency between the website, manuals and vendors hasn't been a strong suit for Zapco in a long time. They produce some nice amplifiers, but I think John could certainly use some help on the documentation and web side of things. That being said, I think the Zapco numbers are more accurate than those on WoofersEtc.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Unfortunately documentation and consistency between the website, manuals and vendors hasn't been a strong suit for Zapco in a long time. They produce some nice amplifiers, but I think John could certainly use some help on the documentation and web side of things. That being said, I think the Zapco numbers are more accurate than those on WoofersEtc.


I'd have to agree... Did I get the right amps? I hope so, they'll be here tomorrow. Lol


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*JL is recommending exactly .5 cuft per sub. Is my goal to get that exact volume or can I "err on the side of" slightly larger??*I realize that smaller would not be good...

^^^ Probably a dumb question, but this is my first box build and I want to get it right the first time.


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I think your amp selection will be just fine. 

On the amps, I would say you are definitely ok erring on the side "slightly larger." With that amp, I wouldn't hesitate to go as large as 0.8CF each. Possibly even as high as 1CF each. The larger the enclosure, the lower the power requirement and the better the bottom end response.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I think your amp selection will be just fine.
> 
> On the amps, I would say you are definitely ok erring on the side "slightly larger." With that amp, I wouldn't hesitate to go as large as 0.8CF each. Possibly even as high as 1CF each. The larger the enclosure, the lower the power requirement and the better the bottom end response.


Man, you are always so incredibly knowledgeable and helpful! 

I am considering removing my spare tire and jack, which might get me close to 1cf.

The first things I am going to do is load the trunk up with everything that will go back there and see how much the weight affects the rear suspension... If it drops it much, I'll consider replacing the spare tire with a larger box, which would also come close to balancing the weight back to factory (in theory, lol)...

_Edit: here is a pic using some boxes to see how things will actually fit..._


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ok, I tried with and without the spare, and I hardly gain anything with it removed. Unless, I make some funky shaped box that fills the cavities and I definitely do not have the skill (or patience) for that! 


*Final dimensions on the box are:

35 x 17 x 6 = 1.352 cf *


(a net of about 1.3 after sub displacement and a center brace)
and that is using 3/4" plywood... They just opened a Ganahl Lumber about 5 minutes from my house, so I am going to check them for the baltic birch.


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I think landing at about 0.66CF per sub will be just fine. Should help the bottom end extension just a bit without posing any sort of threat on over excursion.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Beautiful 3/4", 13 ply, void free, BB/BB, baltic birch plywood... Chopped up and ready to be assembled.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The box, this is pre-sanding...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I decided to carpet the box... 


*I am looking for that really thick material, that has a high pile like automotive floor mats, anyone know where to get that???*


Most of what I am seeing on Ebay and Amazon are the thin ones with no backing.


----------



## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

Fabric store


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

As much as I dislike shopping there, AutoZone had a roll of the thick carpet in stock...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Box is carpeted.


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Looks good


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Got a little more done... Power cable and remote wires are in.

Also, started on the amp rack, I think I have some pretty cool ideas for it:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*Do you guys know if I am able to rotate the Zapco amp covers around??*

With the two amps, I want to place them to where the logo on one of them would be upside down, and I would need to be able to flip the logo (or cover).


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

A little progress on the amp rack...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

So it looks like I'm going to be using these for the tweeters... I'll be cutting them down to make them as small as possible. Space is soooo tight on the sails. :worried:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I've been in Costa Rica for a while... Now that I am back, I happy to get back to this build!

Did a little sound deadening...

_Next is to figure out how to mount the tweeters: I have the aluminum pods, but I'm not sure I like them. I would like to try to make something more oem looking._


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

On a non-audio note, I debadged the Cx-3 and added a custom emblem.

Also, installed .5" wheels spacers up front and 1" spacers in the rear. Much better stance IMHO.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I tried really hard to make the tweeters work on the sails, but there was no way...

Made some little pods to angle them away from firing directly at the windshield in the stock locations.

After lot's of searching, I found some vinyl that is a near perfect match to the dash. 

PVC pipe fitting, aluminum base and epoxy...


----------



## TerryGreen5986 (Jun 23, 2017)

Dope! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Better pics... I'm really happy with how these turned out.


----------



## abusiveDAD (Jan 7, 2009)

Cha' ching


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Kinda funny, for sound deadening, I have a mix of "left-overs" from previous builds plus some new stuff going in the Mazda... Lol.

The mix consists of KnuKonceptz CLD, Second Skin luxury liner pro, SoundSkins CLD/CCF combo, a little bit of Dynamat Dynaliner CCF, and a no-name brand of egg crate like foam.
I'm just strategically (and randomly) shoving it anywhere I can...


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I can’t imagine not using what you already own unless it was bad. No where does it state that with a new build we can only use new stuff lol. In fact I plan on putting in everything that I had before as I know it was quality then, and it’s quality still.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

The little tweeter pods turned out nice. I think the matching vinyl makes a big difference.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> The little tweeter pods turned out nice. I think the matching vinyl makes a big difference.


Thank you! And I agree... they blend right in with the dash and hardly look aftermarket.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Added a little bracket to use the AF mounting nut and bolt (THANKS ANDY!).


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I ordered some capacitors for the tweeters, but when I received them last night I am not sure if they are the right ones (see pic)... 

*These things are enormous, are they the right ones??*


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Btw, these TW3s are beautiful subs, even from the back!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

DavidRam said:


> I ordered some capacitors for the tweeters, but when I received them last night I am not sure if they are the right ones (see pic)...
> 
> *These things are enormous, are they the right ones??*


Those look to be the exact capacitors that Andy recommends in his tech article. 

https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/to-cap-or-not-to-cap-tweeters-in-systems-with-active-crossovers


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Those look to be the exact capacitors that Andy recommends in his tech article.
> 
> https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/to-cap-or-not-to-cap-tweeters-in-systems-with-active-crossovers


Yes, after I posted that, I read the article... They are huge, but I guess I'll make them fit.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

DavidRam said:


> Yes, after I posted that, I read the article... They are huge, but I guess I'll make them fit.


That’s what she said ?????????????????


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

optimaprime said:


> That’s what she said ?????????????????


LOL!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have to start figuring out where to put the Fiio x3, the MiniDSP remote and the bass knob... (keeping in mind that the MiniDSP remote's volume will be my main volume control) 

One idea I have had is to get this armrest (they don't come standard for reasons that are beyond my comprehension) and build them in/on to it...

https://www.amazon.com/2016-2017-Ma...=1512229683&sr=1-1&keywords=mazda+cx3+armrest


----------



## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

sunglasses holder above? looks like some interiors have a pocket below the headlight switches on the left side of the car.

maybe little plastic plate in front of the screen for your bass knob?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

No sunglasses holder above... There is another spot in front of the shifter that I don't mind sacrificing (see picture, outlined in red). 
I would never use the CD player on this car and I could move the usb and charger to another spot, so this area could be filled and covered with a face plate or something like that.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Finally had time to finish the driver's door... Fully sound deadened, door card sealed, GS60 in, Fast Ring on and done. 
I am quite OCD, so I even replaced/upgraded the factory door panel clips to stronger ones that have a little foam ring. 

The door sounds solid inside and out.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Stronger clips, is that a “ MAZDA “ thing ?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Stronger clips, is that a “ MAZDA “ thing ?


Each clip ads 10 horsepower to the wheels, and 20 watts to each speaker!  Lol


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Pics or links to said clips?

I need some zoom-zoom in my doors.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Pics or links to said clips?
> 
> I need some zoom-zoom in my doors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk



They are, in a broad sense, vehicle specific... I know Mazda and Honda use these, but not on all of their vehicles.
Much thicker and stronger than the factory clips and the added foam ring to help against potential rattles between the panels. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Inte...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Thanks.

So on a not so car audio note. Now that you've had the CX-3 for a little while, how do you like it? 

How tall are you? 

I'm in the position that my work vehicle might be taken away from me and I am now going to be in the market for a new perdonal vehicle and have been considering the CX-3.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Thanks.
> 
> So on a not so car audio note. Now that you've had the CX-3 for a little while, how do you like it?
> 
> ...


I really like it a lot. Actually, I like it more than I thought I would, especially coming from years of owing big trucks and SUVs... It is very stiff and handles like a sports car, really fun to drive! Build quality equal to a vehicle twice it's price. 
It is a unique looking car, not your dime a dozen Camry and Civic kinda car.
I am 6' 1" and 180lbs. The only thing I will add is the seats are very Recaro-like and I can't imagine anyone wider and heavier than me being able to sit comfortably in them. Height is no issue at all, but the seats really hug the body on the sides...


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

I'm 6' even, so that's good to hear. I'm am about 25lbs heavier than you, but that shouldn't be a deal breaker. I just need to get off my ass and get in shape, lol. I'm a big fan of small nimble cars. Since I would be coming from a Miata as my personal car and a Honda HR-V as my work car, this might bridge the gap between the two.

It looks like a good foundation for a system too. The area in the trunk looks like it would work really well and what you did with the tweeters looks pretty awesome. 

I might have to go take one for a spin.

Did you get the FWD or AWD version?

I think I remember reading that you aren't even going to tap off the factory HU for signal? 



Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> I'm 6' even, so that's good to hear. I'm am about 25lbs heavier than you, but that shouldn't be a deal breaker. I just need to get off my ass and get in shape, lol. I'm a big fan of small nimble cars. Since I would be coming from a Miata as my personal car and a Honda HR-V as my work car, this might bridge the gap between the two.
> 
> It looks like a good foundation for a system too. The area in the trunk looks like it would work really well and what you did with the tweeters looks pretty awesome.
> 
> ...


Actually, the CX-3 sounds perfect for you! It's got the space and practicality of the HR-V and handles nearly as good as a Miata. I definitely recommend you drive one... It has a very responsive transmission unlike the CVT in the HR-V. 
I am not trying to exaggerate, but the transmission in this Mazda is one of the best transmissions I have had in a vehicle yet, second only to my 2008 Porsche Boxster. It down shifts to a near crawl!

The trunk space is perfect for a great system and it's easy to pull apart and put back together. Yes, I am leaving the factory system untouched other than removing the dash and door drivers, so I can still use Bluetooth for phone calls (the rear speakers will handle that just fine). Signal will come from a Fiio x3 DAP connect directly to the MiniDSP. 

I got the FWD. I did not want the extra weight and cost of the AWD. Fyi, I bought it for $23,000 OTD (tax & license included) and got 0% financing for 5 years.

Thanks for the compliment about the tweeter pods!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ripped open the passenger door to begin deadening and the mid bass install...











Drill out the factory plug to run KnuKonceptz big fat 14 gauge Karma SS Kable.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

That door looks like a dream to add deadening to. One nice big access panel.

Does the window slide down in front of the guide or behind it when rolled down? If behind it, how much depth is there between the window and the outer door skin? I'd take the measurement myself, but methinks the dealership wouldn't be too keen on my taking their car door apart for measurements, lol.

Damn you man, the more I watch this build, the morw I am leaning towards one as my next car. I really need to swing by the dealership to take one for a spin.



Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> That door looks like a dream to add deadening to. One nice big access panel.
> 
> Does the window slide down in front of the guide or behind it when rolled down? If behind it, how much depth is there between the window and the outer door skin? I'd take the measurement myself, but methinks the dealership wouldn't be too keen on my taking their car door apart for measurements, lol.
> 
> ...


The window goes down behind the metal track... But I don't think it goes down far enough to where it would hit the midbass driver, so available depth for the driver is A LOT! 
There is also plenty of depth between the window and out door skin, too. I have about an inch of sound deadening in there and it's not even close to the window.
I can take some measurements tonight or tomorrow if you need them.
The door card itself comes off very easily as well. These are definitely the easiest doors I have taken apart and sound deadened, so far.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Thanks. I wasn't too concerned about the speaker clearance. I was more wondering about how much space was available for adding rigid fiberglass. After doing to the HR-V and hearing the difference, I will be doing it to every vehicle of mine here on out. 

If you will have the door off, I would appreciate a measurement, but don't go out of your way if not.

Thanks!


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

Those knu karma wires are really nice. I have some 16 gauge and the wire size are close to some other 12 gauges I have. Nice build.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Thanks. I wasn't too concerned about the speaker clearance. I was more wondering about how much space was available for adding rigid fiberglass. After doing to the HR-V and hearing the difference, I will be doing it to every vehicle of mine here on out.
> 
> If you will have the door off, I would appreciate a measurement, but don't go out of your way if not.
> 
> Thanks!


No problem, I'll try to get the measurements tonight... Btw, what fiberglass are you referring to?



SQLnovice said:


> Those knu karma wires are really nice. I have some 16 gauge and the wire size are close to some other 12 gauges I have. Nice build.


Thanks! It is nice wire... I'm using 14 gauge for the front and 12 gauge for the subs. I really like the double insulation, too.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Passenger door panel


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Progress... Sorry the pictures are kinda ****ty quality, the lighting was/is bad in my garage.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Not audio related, but I got a custom logo to replace the Mazda logo. I'm removing all Mazda logos from the car... 
This is the sexy rear end that is housing all the audio "junk in the trunk." 

I got some new exhaust tips that will go on in the next couple days, too...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice build!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Nice build!


Thanks!!!


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Looks awesome


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

555nova said:


> Looks awesome


Thank you!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Thanks. I wasn't too concerned about the speaker clearance. I was more wondering about how much space was available for adding rigid fiberglass. After doing to the HR-V and hearing the difference, I will be doing it to every vehicle of mine here on out.
> 
> If you will have the door off, I would appreciate a measurement, but don't go out of your way if not.
> 
> Thanks!


Last night, I measured the space between the window (when it's down) and the outer door skin: at the narrowest place there is still 2" and at the widest it's 4"+. I hope that helps...
I forgot to check and see how much depth is available for the 6.5" though... Hopefully, I remember to do that tonight.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

DavidRam said:


> Last night, I measured the space between the window (when it's down) and the outer door skin: at the narrowest place there is still 2" and at the widest it's 4"+. I hope that helps...
> I forgot to check and see how much depth is available for the 6.5" though... Hopefully, I remember to do that tonight.


Thanks man. Yes, it does help. You thread is tipping the scales towards me buying one of these cars. 

Once I get my finances sorted out, I'm going to have to take one for a test drive. 

About the fiberglass (Sorry, I missed your question) I was referring to adding wrapped fiberglass tiles to the doors to help with sound absorption in the doors. I did this in the HR-V and was shocked by how much it changed the sound signature of the car. It's a pain in the ass to do, but I feel totally worth it. And now with you showing me what kind of depth I would have to work with, the pieces are falling into place. 

Keep_Hope_Alive is the one who introduced the technique here. I'll try to find his post once I am at my computer. 

Nice work so far. I dig the perf. Metal amp rack. Thinking outside the box.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Thanks man. Yes, it does help. You thread is tipping the scales towards me buying one of these cars.
> 
> Once I get my finances sorted out, I'm going to have to take one for a test drive.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

Now I know what you mean by the fiberglass... I think I saw the thread and video. 
This thing does have some road noise, but with just the front doors done it's dramatically more quiet. 
Most of the noise now is engine coming from the front... I'm going to do a full treatment under the dash and the firewall with KnuKoncepts cld and Second Skins Luxury Liner Pro (mlv, ccf combo).


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Dude that amp
Rack
Is sick!! What’s that material you used on top? The expanded stuff


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Weightless said:


> Thanks man. Yes, it does help. You thread is tipping the scales towards me buying one of these cars.
> 
> Once I get my finances sorted out, I'm going to have to take one for a test drive.
> 
> ...



It’s definitely worth it IMO. See my thread on that. I used OC703. Use a plastic wrap that’s not too flimsy and tears if you look at it wrong. It definitely is an itchy absolute PITA but makes a big difference to the good I believe. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

optimaprime said:


> Dude that amp
> Rack
> Is sick!! What’s that material you used on top? The expanded stuff


Thank you sir! The amp rack is perforated aluminum on top of frosted plexiglass.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Finished up the passenger door:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Installed the tweeters:


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Looks good. How'd you get them to clip to the dash? Are the pods attached to the factory tweeter cover?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Looks good. How'd you get them to clip to the dash? Are the pods attached to the factory tweeter cover?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


Thanks! 
I made the base of the pods out of aluminum to the exact diameter of the factory tweeters. (In retrospect, I could have made the diameter slightly larger to fill the recessed area...)










Kinda funny, I used tiny little bungee cords to secure the tweeters! Lol. It actually worked perfectly... they are on really tight, but I can rotate them easily during tuning if I need to. 
I wrapped the little hooks in Tesa tape and hooked them into random spots under the dash.


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Clever. I really like the idea of being able to rotate them easily. Nice.



Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Weightless said:


> Clever. I really like the idea of being able to rotate them easily. Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


I'm kinda surprised at how well it worked and how easy it was, being able to easily rotate them whenever, is a bonus... And bungee cords are a small step up from zip ties and duct tape! Lol


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Next, I need to figure something out with the trunk lid:












Not sure if I like these JL Audio grills... The subs are really nice to look at, and it seems a pity to cover them completely. I might build some grills into the trunk lid and get rid of these. 











I tried really hard to get the measurements where the trunk lid would not stick up past the edge of the trunk. It worked.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

It still looks good tho'!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BP1Fanatic said:


> It still looks good tho'!


Thanks!

I ordered some grills that I am going to attach to the trunk lid. I think it will look better...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Exhaust tips


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’m an exhaust fanatic so I’m given you thumbs up for doing this.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> I’m an exhaust fanatic so I’m given you thumbs up for doing this.


Thank you! I am one as well... I don't know of you remember what all I did to my Ram's exhaust - headers, Magnaflow catback, swapped the MF tips for 5" tips to make it quiter and added an electric cutout to make it louder!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. Trust me lol I remember that part well hence why I am following you here.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*POP GOES THE WEASEL !!!*

Last night, I sent power to the system so I could give it a listen... There was a loud pop and then a bunch of smoke. 





















Lol, just kidding... the sweet sound of Rufus Du Sol's - Innerbloom came through the speakers.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^^. Oh wow lol that was soooo wrong to trick us like that.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Next is to make a faceplate that will hold the Fiio, the MiniDSP remote and the bass knob, AND fit in the cubby in front of the shifter...


all this 









needs to fit here


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I have also considered the MiniDSP IR remote, but being old school, I always enjoy twisting a knob to turn up the volume!  Though the IR remote would save some space and headache in fitting everything...

https://www.amazon.com/miniDSP-Infr...=1514315493&sr=8-1&keywords=minidsp+ir+remote


My gripe about the MiniDSP wired remote, is why the hell do they have to put it in a steel housing that is twice the size and strength that it needs to be to house the little bit of circuitry that is inside it?!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Trust me if they hadn’t people would have complained that they cheaped out on the casing which is why theirs does not work lol.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Trust me if they hadn’t people would have complained that they cheaped out on the casing which is why theirs does not work lol.


True. I guess you can't please everyone, all the time!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Cardboard template transferred to stainless steel: 




















Used the metal brake to bend the ends, and taped it with electrical tape so it doesn't scratch anything while test fitting











Wow, lucky! First cut was great without grinding or filing...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice plate!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

some progress











still need to clean the back up and tighten some corners on the vinyl


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

test fit


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## Common Sense (Sep 25, 2014)

How does it sound so far?


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

That panel came out NICE!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Common Sense said:


> How does it sound so far?


I don't have the speakers connected yet. I should be able to give it a listen next week...



BP1Fanatic said:


> That panel came out NICE!


Thanks!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I decided I don't like the JL grills.










so I added these grills to the cover instead... Plus, the subs are nice to look when I lift the cover.










I still need to trim down the rings.


----------



## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Which grills are those? Custom? The profile looks similar to the Oncore SM grills, but the perforation diameter looks larger.


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

Nice work man - really enjoying watching this one come along. Diggin' the ride too!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Which grills are those? Custom? The profile looks similar to the Oncore SM grills, but the perforation diameter looks larger.


Cheapo grills! 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Qpower-GRI...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



rob feature said:


> Nice work man - really enjoying watching this one come along. Diggin' the ride too!


Hey, thanks a lot!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

So, I have everything connect, but there are two issues:

1st - Left tweeter plays quieter than the right tweeter, AND cuts out half the time...
It will play and then go silent. When I turn up the volume it tends to turn back on, but not every time.

2nd - Pretty severe alternator whine/whistle...

*How should I trouble shoot these??*
_
For the 1st problem:_
First, I am going to do is see if there is something wrong with the cheap capacitor I am using on the tweeter (I doubt it, but want to eliminate that possibility). 
Next, I am going to switch channels on the amp with the other tweeter and see if it's the amp. 

I have never had an issue with alternator whine, so I'll have to figure out how to trouble shoot that... 
*Where does one start??*


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Wow kickin' panel for the player! What a fun build!



DavidRam said:


> *How should I trouble shoot these??*
> _
> For the 1st problem:_
> First, I am going to do is see if there is something wrong with the cheap capacitor I am using on the tweeter (I doubt it, but want to eliminate that possibility).
> Next, I am going to switch channels on the amp with the other tweeter and see if it's the amp.


On the tweeter.. Yeah start at the speaker end and work your way upstream.. If it follows the tweeter, or follows the amp channel, or follows an RCA etc upstream. Eventually you'll get there.

Alt whine is another matter.. Double check your grounds and ground connections probably a likely first place to look.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Babs said:


> Wow kickin' panel for the player! What a fun build!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks!! 


Btw, I started a thread for it, too.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I wasn't 100% happy with the faceplate, so I am re-doing it...

Since it will be covering all the usb ports and 12v outlet in the dash, I decided to add a usb port to it and re-wire the 12v outlet to an additional pair of usb outlets to power my dash cam and Fiio.

Also, I will be adding leds to try and match the cars interior lights (hopefully I ordered the right color temperature, cuz I hate it when the they don't match). 


I used a foam plate to cutout a tem-plate, to make a backplate for the faceplate!! Did you see what I did there?!


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

Or start at the RCS and switch Right and Left and see if the tweeter that is hosed moves sides... (or does not)
That either says it is HU or elimites it. (Respectively)

(Starting at the amp, it addresses the speaker, capacitor, and wires. Either way works, but the volume know sounds more the HU end of things)


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Holmz said:


> Or start at the RCS and switch Right and Left and see if the tweeter that is hosed moves sides... (or does not)
> That either says it is HU or elimites it. (Respectively)
> 
> (Starting at the amp, it addresses the speaker, capacitor, and wires. Either way works, but the volume know sounds more the HU end of things)


Thanks. The source is a Fiio X3 via coax to the MiniDSP... I have ruled out the Fiio, but theoretically, the MiniDSP could have a bad channel on that tweeter (ch 1.). 

I haven't had time to dig into the problem yet... Fortunately, after lots of thought, I have figured out how to rule out some of the potential problems without completely tearing into a build I have just spent weeks working on.


*Not sure if this means much, but I did set my gains using an SMD DD1 and it read the tones no problem and consistently showed distortion at the same spot (I was very thorough and checked it multiple times). So it "seems" like the amp and dsp or fine... *

Btw, what is RCS?


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## Holmz (Jul 12, 2017)

RCAs as in the RCA plugs... (the "a" and "s" keys eluded my fat fingers)


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

There is a lot going on this thing... USB port, bass knob, MiniDSP remote. I might ditch the idea of leds, it might be to big of a pain in the ass... 










The back plate is done, just need to wrap it in vinyl: 










I will screw this on to the little wood strips that I epoxied to the faceplate, and it will hold the Fiio in place. It will also be attached to the usb port for additional strength...

Also, I will be using a bungee cord (AGAIN!) to secure this to the dash. With the 12v outlet gone there is a hole where I can pull all the cables through and the bungee will go through that hole and attach to an undetermined-as-yet place behind the dash...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’m loving the creative ways in which you are going about install wise. That “ if I can’t find it, I’ll make something “ mind set is why I keep coming back to this posting.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> I’m loving the creative ways in which you are going about install wise. That “ if I can’t find it, I’ll make something “ mind set is why I keep coming back to this posting.


Thanks!

I keep telling myself that there is no deadline in getting this done... That way I take my time to get it perfect and do everything exactly the way I envisioned it.

Plus, enjoy the process as much as possible!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Take two on the faceplate... I made a mistake on the first one. :blush:

The Fiio's on/off switch has to be pressed when the screen goes to sleep. That switch is on the left side of the player, hence the cutout for my fat fingers to push the button. 
It sucks, but I don't have the option of "waking" it with the buttons on the front. 

Next issue: I didn't like the bulge that came from wrapping the vinyl around the corners around the player, so I cut the vinyl at the edges and I will be adding a cover over the cut outs (see aluminum sheet in the background) to hide the edges... I actually think it will look much better with the cover and it will have a more finished look.

This ****ing idea has been a real challenge and has been very tedious and time consuming, but I think I like how it's coming together. 














I ordered these knobs for the volume and the bass knob, they look like they'll match the Mazda interior...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Finally got the grills finished up and mounted... I added a little trim piece around the edge to give it a more finished look.


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## TerryGreen5986 (Jun 23, 2017)

Let us know if ur satisfied with those subs 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I had that sub (12”) and absolutely loved it and what it brought to the table. Those trim rings around the subs are the bomb.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

TerryGreen5986 said:


> Let us know if ur satisfied with those subs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I sure will...



Coppertone said:


> I had that sub (12”) and absolutely loved it and what it brought to the table. Those trim rings around the subs are the bomb.



Thanks!! 

I hope they give me enough output... Remember, I am coming from this sub with 2k rms amp... 










I am trying to have reasonable expectations... Lol


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Ok well you’ve got me as far as that lol, I’m sure if not you’ll know how to swap them out.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> ... swap them out.


Oh boy, I hope it doesn't come down to that...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’m sure that it won’t, but sadly I can’t speak for your taste in sounds.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> I’m sure that it won’t, but sadly I can’t speak for your taste in sounds.


I think I would rather adjust my taste than swap the subs right away...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Is this interior that much smaller then your Ram ?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Is this interior that much smaller then your Ram ?


Waaaay smaller... Well, because I'm trying to keep a functional trunk. I easily put two SI BM MKiVs in separate boxes in the Ram. 

The Jeep had no trunk, it was all sub box and I sometimes regretted that...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

You know sadly I had completely forgotten about your Jeep. Whatever happened with it and the mods being done with it ?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> You know sadly I had completely forgotten about your Jeep. Whatever happened with it and the mods being done with it ?


Oh, I did every mod I ever wanted to on it and then I sold it! I don't get attached to cars... To me, they are just fun projects and transportation. I get a new car every 1-2 years on average. :blush:


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Lol, now me I’m the opposite as when I get bored I add or take away from the vehicle. On average I keep my vehicles at least 8 years each. I always pay them off in two years and then that payment I would normally have, I invest in businesses or property. That in turn allows me to stay retired yet still play like I am working ha ha ha ha ha ha.. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Subbed! About to start in on a new build myself. Loving the direction you've headed here.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> Subbed! About to start in on a new build myself. Loving the direction you've headed here.


Hey, thanks man!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Made the aluminum trim piece for the faceplate.

I'm going to try gloss, satin and flat black paint to see what looks best...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

U killin it!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Decided on gloss black so it will match the trim around the vents... Now to get a perfect, gloss finish... Btw, I hate painting.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Ok, it turns out I am too retarded to rattle can a high gloss black to any degree of acceptability...  :blush: 

I stripped the paint and then vinyl wrapped the trim piece with 3m high gloss.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Very nice, and I know that rattle can feeling lol.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Very nice, and I know that rattle can feeling lol.


Thanks! 

It's was frustrating, I did everything by the book and it came out looking like ****, with a really bad orange peel effect... Flat black is sooo easy, but gloss is impossible for me. 

Anyways, the vinyl wrap should wear better than paint and it looks exactly like the other interior trim pieces.
I went ahead and wrapped the usb port in the vinyl, too. I should have installed pics up later tonight!


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’m looking forward to seeing the “ uniformed “ look with all of those pieces wrapped. 


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

DavidRam said:


> Ok, it turns out I am too retarded to rattle can a high gloss black to any degree of acceptability...  :blush:
> 
> I stripped the paint and then vinyl wrapped the trim piece with 3m high gloss.


I am a woodworker by trade and I stumbled upon a trick that works great for gloss black. I spray it with flat black from a rattle can then clear it with lacquer, usually a few coats and it looks awesome


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The pics are ****ty, but here it is... The aluminum knobs should be here by Saturday to replace those cheap ones that I hate. Lol




















After I took these pictures I pulled it back out and re-positioned it, it sits in there really tight and snug with no gaps at all...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Mlarson67 said:


> I am a woodworker by trade and I stumbled upon a trick that works great for gloss black. I spray it with flat black from a rattle can then clear it with lacquer, usually a few coats and it looks awesome


That's interesting. Any sanding or polishing?


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

That’s hot **** right there man!!!


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

DavidRam said:


> That's interesting. Any sanding or polishing?


Just a light rub out with #320 between coats. Only tried it because I didn't have any gloss just flat and some precat lacquer, works great


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

optimaprime said:


> That’s hot **** right there man!!!


Ditto!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks guys! 
Unfortunately, I determined last night that one of my tweeters is bad, hence the cutting out issue. I'll be pulling it and sending it to Andy.


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## TerryGreen5986 (Jun 23, 2017)

When u reinstall, try using a cap in line with both tweets just for some extra protection 


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

TerryGreen5986 said:


> When u reinstall, try using a cap in line with both tweets just for some extra protection
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Definitely. It had a cap from the beginning, never saw power with out it...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Better pics (sorta :blush. I think my photography skills are similar to my painting skills... ****TY! Lol


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Just beautiful work there!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Truthunter said:


> Just beautiful work there!


Thank you!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Installed the aluminum knobs:


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They match the factory knobs perfectly!!   



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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Fapworthy, indeed. Quite, quite.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The vinyl matches the dash, the gloss matches the trim around the vents, and the knobs match the factory ones... 


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

chithead said:


> Fapworthy, indeed. Quite, quite.


Lol thanks!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Washed and wax


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I am trouble shooting some issues with the sound, being discussed here: 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...her-issue-cutting-out-medium-high-volume.html


But I did get a chance to listen today, especially to the subs... These TW3 10s do sound great! Actually, they remind me A LOT of the two 12" BM MK IVs I had in my truck!

It's very hard to tell where the bass is coming from and I haven't done any TA or EQ yet. Output wise, they are pretty good and I think I can live with them for a little while. Lol

Once I get the front stage issue ironed out I'll begin tuning...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

**** me... the problems with this build are none stop and they all seem to be these rare impossible-to-figure-out issues!!   

From the beginning I have had an issue with the Fiio where it intermittently won't play FLAC files... and I have been emailing back and forth with Fiio's tech support. I have also purchased three 64gb sd cards to rule out that being the issue, not to mention spent a lot of time doing firmware upgrades/downgrades/upgrades, etc.

Today, I figured out exactly what causes the flac files not to play: *When the x3 is connected to a power source it WON'T play flac, though it WILL play every other format. When playing off of battery it plays flac just fine... BUT it only won't play flac when listening via coax (digital), when listening to flac via headphones (analog) it plays fine while connected to a power source. 
The next find was that if I even so much as touch the usb cable's outer shell (ground) to the Fiios usb (without even fully inserting the plug) the sound cuts out! *

In summary, there seems to be a ground issue in the Fiio's usb (charger) that ONLY manifests itself when flac files are being playing AND the output is connected via coax. 

WTF?!?    Does **** get anymore weird than this?!? 

First, the tweeter issue, then the sound cutting out issue and now this! The tweeter and the above issue are/were equipment related, who knows what's next...

Do you guys sometimes want to pull out the little hair we have left?!?!?!!!!! LOL


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## SQLnovice (Jul 22, 2014)

I've had many instances where I wanted to rip everything out and go back to stock. It's usually when a problem comes up because I typically can't troubleshoot on my own. But thanks to some members on here whom I usually bombard with messages to their inbox. I would leave everything for a few days and then tackle it again after the frustrations wear off. 
I hope you get everything sorted out. I'm looking into selling my 2 iPods and getting the Fiio x5 3gen or if budget permits the x7 (not sure which one yet) but that might be in about 6 months.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

SQLnovice said:


> I've had many instances where I wanted to rip everything out and go back to stock. It's usually when a problem comes up because I typically can't troubleshoot on my own. But thanks to some members on here whom I usually bombard with messages to their inbox. I would leave everything for a few days and then tackle it again after the frustrations wear off.
> I hope you get everything sorted out. I'm looking into selling my 2 iPods and getting the Fiio x5 3gen or if budget permits the x7 (not sure which one yet) but that might be in about 6 months.


I hear ya... and thanks!

The guys on this forum have been invaluable throughout my builds, with this PIA one being no exception... 

I just want to spend quality time in my car, just me and REW.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well,, it turns out that the Fiio X3 2nd gen. is discontinued and the new 3rd gen. model is already on the market (I guess I should have looked out for this before getting it).

I have two options: wait for Fiio to stop jerking me around and get it replaced or repaired, OR upgrade to the new one and start from scratch with the in-dash faceplate... 

New Fiio x3 --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743DHWK3/ref=psdc_1264866011_t2_B01M1KSUJX?th=1 Biased Review Lolhttps://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fi...le-high-resolution-music-player.22545/reviews


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I ordered the 3rd gen x3... It's definitely better looking then the 2nd gen. We'll see how it functions.

The head-fi guys seem to rate it pretty good... If I decide to run it, I'll obviously have to rebuild the faceplate.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the newest version. I like that I’m able to use mine via Bluetooth in either one of my cars. It’s sad though that I can not even with an X5 run with it via usb. 


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

^^why can't you run it USB?


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

DavidRam said:


> I hear ya... and thanks!
> 
> The guys on this forum have been invaluable throughout my builds, with this PIA one being no exception...
> 
> I just want to spend quality time in my car, just me and REW.


Dave, my car is nicknamed Christine (Steven King) for all the issue I have had (never had anything like this in any of my cars or my customer cars). I actually troubleshooted a problem when I was still trying to use the factory head unit that if someone sat in the passenger seat, triggering the airbag circuit, then I would get Transformers (like in the movie) like sounds even though I had NO cables running in the area under the passenger seat. It was some sort of of feedback entering the factory head unit, but not located in the factory head unit. Weird ****! I have had many other weird equipment issues here and there, just a really touchy car. Hang in there.....the end result will be worth it!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

Niebur3 said:


> ^^why can't you run it USB?


There is an upcoming FW update that will allow USB audio output, but at the moment it is not available.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I’ve tried several ways to the wind and even then it will only charge or upload my files. So if they do an update, I will again be one happy customer. Also I really really like the X5 and am strongly considering the X7 when available as my around the house play unit. 


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Niebur3 said:


> Dave, my car is nicknamed Christine (Steven King) for all the issue I have had (never had anything like this in any of my cars or my customer cars). I actually troubleshooted a problem when I was still trying to use the factory head unit that if someone sat in the passenger seat, triggering the airbag circuit, then I would get Transformers (like in the movie) like sounds even though I had NO cables running in the area under the passenger seat. It was some sort of of feedback entering the factory head unit, but not located in the factory head unit. Weird ****! I have had many other weird equipment issues here and there, just a really touchy car. Hang in there.....the end result will be worth it!


Thanks man, I appreciate it! Sometimes it helps to take a break from the build, then jump back in with new energy and ideas on how to trouble shoot the problems... that's where I'm at right now.  

That IS some weird **** with your airbag circuit...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, for those of you who have been following this thread and other threads were I have been bitching and moaning about the problems with my system, I think I have made an interesting discovery today!!
*
The "sound cutting out" issue and the "FLAC not playing while the Fiio was charging" issue are related!
Today, I ran the Fiio on it's battery only and there was no problem playing flac files, NOR did the sound cut out at high volume!! WTF?!?! Go figure that one out!! Lol

So both issues seem to be related to a ground or wiring problem inside the Fiio, that is causing to separate issues.*

I haven't tested this much, so I will poke around and confirm that my findings are correct... but for now, as long as long as the Fiio is not charging, the system is problem-free.


Edit: I did order the Fiio x3 markiii, so as soon as that comes in I'll compare the two and see which one is the keeper.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, I got excited for nothing... *The same problem still exists, the speakers are still cutting out... *but I did learn something new about the issue - when I play just the front speakers and mute the subwoofer, I can turn the volume all the way up without cutting out.

*Could the amps not be getting enough power??* The system seems to choke when both amps are playing and the volume goes up. When either amp plays individually the volume can go all the way up...

_Why I originally got excited was because I tested it with the subs on mute and that is when I could turn it up without cutting out... _

*Bottom line: my amps are fine, because individually they work perfectly. The problem is somewhere in the power connection to the battery (and everything in between) and/or the ground. *


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

DavidRam said:


> Well, I got excited for nothing... *The same problem still exists, the speakers are still cutting out... *but I did learn something new about the issue - when I play just the front speakers and mute the subwoofer, I can turn the volume all the way up without cutting out.
> 
> *Could the amps not be getting enough power??* The system seems to choke when both amps are playing and the volume goes up. When either amp plays individually the volume can go all the way up...
> 
> ...


Bad grounds can cause weird issues...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Jaloosk said:


> Bad grounds can cause weird issues...


I tried various ground points and even ran a new ground, but it made no difference... 

The ground is very clean and solid, imho.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Next week I'm going to tear into the power and ground and see if I can fix the problems I am having.... 

In the mean time, I am going to do some fun stuff too, and figure out what to do for rear fill! Lol

I think I can mount a pair of AF GS40s in the trunk area and stash a mini amp somewhere back there (possibly inside the trunk lid).

In my Jeep I used a Mosconi Pico for the rear fill mids... Any other suggestions for a tiny amp like that??


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I don't think you'll find anything quite as small as the Pico. 

There are some pretty compact two channel amps out there, though. 

Zapco ST-2X SQ or ST-2X would be a good match for the amps you are already running and keep you within the same budget range. 

If you're willing to spend more, there is the Pico that you are familiar with. In a little larger chassis there are offerings from JL, Phoenix Gold, Kicker, Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Gladen, etc. Two channel options do seem a bit more limited. You might even consider looking at some of the bridgeable 4 channel mini amps from brands like Clarion, Pioneer and Kenwood.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> I don't think you'll find anything quite as small as the Pico.
> 
> There are some pretty compact two channel amps out there, though.
> 
> ...



Thanks, I'll check those out, too...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Today and tomorrow will consist of putting the entire system back together, as it was all ripped apart to fix problems... I couldn't be happier though!!! 

_Here are the problems for those who missed my other threads:_

Tweeter issue - tweeter replaced (Andy and AudioFrog are AWESOME!)

Sound cutting out & problems with Fiio X3 playing flac files - coax cable replaced which solved both problems (AFTER trying every other possibility under the sun)

Alternator wine - not sure how that was fixed, but somewhere in all the trouble shooting it went away 


FUTURE PLANS:

- Make new faceplate for the new Fiio X3 Mark iii

- Rear fill on the tailgate using GS40s

*- Sell the Mazda and buy a Hellcat Charger*


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. Lol you’re just as bad as me except I’ll be giving the Accord to my daughter.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> ^^^. Lol you’re just as bad as me except I’ll be giving the Accord to my daughter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yep, I get board with cars pretty quickly...  I have had around 50 cars since I got my license at 18.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

This car has a fair amount of engine noise in the cab, so today I start installing some KnuKoncepts Kno Knoise CLD and Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro against the firewall... 

Man it's a ***** working in the tight space behind the dash of a small Japanese car... Lol. My hands are all cut up. :blush:

I might add Dynamat's Hoodliner to the hood too... it was noticeable on my Ram.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Just a little review of the equipment in this build, after finally being able to begin tuning and listening...

1. The combination of the Zapco st-4xp amp (Power @ 4Ω: 4 x 80 watts) and AF GB10 and GS60 sounds REALLY good so far, but overall output is not that impressive. At max un-distorted volume it's loud enough for some fun listening but nothing to write home over...

2. What IS impressive in it's performance are the two JL 10" Tw3s in a sealed box. I am surprised at how low they go and how loud they get with the Zapco st1000xm, wired to one ohm! I had two SI BmMkVs in a previous build and these two JLs definitely get much louder, but with similar sound quality. 
_Btw, I realize I am overpowering them based on JLs recommendations and longevity might take a hit... _


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

Good to know about the Zapco amp and the JL 10TW3 subwoofers.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Also good to know about the Zapco ST-4xp and those components.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*Btw, what I said is in no way a criticism of Zapco or Audio Frog...* 

I'm just saying that the combination of those components does *not* make for a very loud system.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I loved my Tw3 so I fully understand what you are saying...


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## 555nova (Apr 12, 2014)

Like I said before I had a single 12tw3 on a 1100 watt Alpine mrv-m110 for more than a year and I listen loud.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> I loved my Tw3 so I fully understand what you are saying...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





555nova said:


> Like I said before I had a single 12tw3 on a 1100 watt Alpine mrv-m110 for more than a year and I listen loud.


No kidding, guys, these subs are AWESOME!

Last night I set the T/A on the subs and did a quick, tiny bit of auto EQ with REW and the subs blend seamlessly with the mids with some serious up-front-bass!!

Especially playing Fleetwood Mac's "The Chain", it sounded like the kick drum was hitting my windshield.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Time to sell the ST-4X SP, swap in a ST-6X SQ and run 4 channels bridged down to two on the GS60s.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Time to sell the ST-4X SP, swap in a ST-6X SQ and run 4 channels bridged down to two on the GS60s.


Lol! Don't tempt me! 

I saw Coppertone's FS and it did make me stop and think...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

That would be the perfect amp for what you are looking to do it would seem..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Hood is done. Taped down all the edges with thick aluminum tape.


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## Truthunter (Jun 15, 2015)

Was there no acoustical treatment at all on the hood from the factory?

And what material did you use?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Truthunter said:


> Was there no acoustical treatment at all on the hood from the factory?
> 
> And what material did you use?


Absolutely nothing from the factory...  

This is the product (Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069QLVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this same stuff on my Ram and it made a difference... And that is in a noisy truck that had a cai, headers, exhaust and custom tuned 5.7 V8.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice truck!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Well, I just listed the car for sale!!

Here are/were the highlights:



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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

ahh this was a great build too!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> ahh this was a great build too!


I'm ready for the next one!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I went ahead and ordered the GS40s (Crutchfield, $143 open box) and a Kicker mini amp, so I can get started on rear fill... 

I was getting some rattles at certain frequencies from the trunk lid, so I pulled all the panels off to deaden them... Since the rear speakers will be going in the there, it's a good time to get it all done at once.


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

still tweaking the car? no bites yet?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> still tweaking the car? no bites yet?


No bites yet...  But still enjoying pocking around at it. 

It's a newer and rather unknown model of car, so I sorta expected it to take a while to sell.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

On another note, my image hosting site changed their url causing ALL of my pictures to disappear!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Here are pictures of the build:


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## vietjdmboi (Jan 3, 2015)

Let me know if youre ever free. I would love to have a listen to it before its sold


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## m95roadster (Feb 8, 2018)

Awesome job on your install! Can I ask where you picked up the matching vinyl for the tweeter pods you created? Thanks!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

m95roadster said:


> Awesome job on your install! Can I ask where you picked up the matching vinyl for the tweeter pods you created? Thanks!


Thanks a lot! 

I got the vinyl from Joann's Fabric in Torrance... The quality is good, it's relatively easy to do contours and it seems to hold up well in the sun (so far at least). 
Not sure if the pictures show it well, but it is pretty much a perfect match to the dash.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

vietjdmboi said:


> Let me know if youre ever free. I would love to have a listen to it before its sold


Will do... I have things pulled apart right now to install the rear fill... Hopefully, I don't get any interest on it this week! Lol


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I'm curious to read your thoughts about adding rear speakers. It's on my to-do list with the upcoming install in our SUV as well.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Rear fill is in - AF GS40s and a tiny Kicker amp!

Haven't spent much time tuning yet, but I like the feel of it already...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

That amp looks small as h3ll!
Did BigDWiz or Ryan Blankenship dyno test that amp?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

BP1Fanatic said:


> That amp looks small as h3ll!
> Did BigDWiz or Ryan Blankenship dyno test that amp?


Yep, it's really small! So far it works well, sounds great, low noise, etc.. There is a slight turn-on-pop, but not to bad.

I haven't looked for any dynos yet, but I would be curious to know, too. In my application it will have a very low work load, so I'm sure it's more than sufficient.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I was getting an occasional rattle that I narrowed down to the spoiler, so I pulled it off today and deadened everything that could possibly move or vibrate...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

*THE END*










I learned a few things from owning this Mazda over the last 7 months: I don't like front wheel drive cars, I don't like Japanese cars, and I don't like fuel efficient cars! Lol


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^. So what you are saying is you’re going with rwd American muscle ?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> ^^^. So what you are saying is you’re going with rwd American muscle ?


Lol!
RWD and American, yes. But it's lacking the muscle part...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

LMAO!


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