# VW Transporter 2008 - SQL build



## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Hi All,

*Reason for the build*
After buying a "newish" well maintained car, I wanted a "clean and fairly stock looking" install.

*My background*
Back in the mid 90's I competed with a fairly basic install in a girlfriends VW Scirocco, placed 3rd in the danish championship one year and qualified for the finals next year.. Then we broke up :-D I haven't competed since then, but still loves car audio (and home audio for that matter).
For the last 5 years I have had a great sounding (but crappy looking) system in my old car, but that was to be changed when I bought this newish car.
My components are a mixed selection, bought over a period of +6 years.

*Old car system (VW Transporter T4)*
Headunit: Alpine CDA-9855R
DSP: JBL MS8
Amps: Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4, Celestra DA2K
Tweeters: Coral (Peerless 1" dome)
Midrange: Scanspeak 12m
Center speaker: Scanspeak 12m (actually it was the Alpine version, but basically the same driver)
Midbass: Peerless 8" SLS (custom build drivers)
Subs: 3x12" Peerless XLS (custom build drivers)

*New car system (VW Transporter T5)*
Headunit: Alpine CDA-9855R
DSP: JBL MS8

Amps
Helix A4 Competition (Tweeters)
Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 (Midrange + Midbass)
Genesis DM200 (Center speaker(s))
Celestra DA2K (Subwoofers)

Speakers
Tweeters: SEAS Lotus PT27F
Midrange: Scanspeak 12m
Midbass: 4 x 5.25" Peerless HDS in each door (custom drivers)
Center speaker: None yet, but it is planned
Subwoofers: 3x12" Peerless XLS (custom build drivers)

Battery: Varta Silver Dynamic 100Ah
Alternator: Stock
Capacitors: 2x2F (Yes, I do believe in capacitors)


Well, let's get started on the pictures.

First one of the car. A stock VW Transporter 2.5TDi from 2008.










Next up, some of the parts from the old car. The blue 3D printed speaker pods where located on the dash.










Everybody needs a good subwoofer  My old car featured 4x12" XLS's in a 180 litre enclosure, but I wanted to keep more cargospace this time, since I often drive around with two roadrace motorbikes + spare parts.
The bottom half of the wall was pulled out (a big thanks to VW for mounting it with bolts) and the woodwork started.


















First piece of the new combined wall+subwoofer box.










Yep, it will comfortably fit 3x12" XLS drivers, the fourth one will be a spare then 










It was neccessary to mount the drivers from the rear, to avoid the surround from hitting the seats (I didn't think of that problem up front).










The top of the enclosure is done. Because of the front wall slope, the enclosure has more depth at the bottom than at the top.










My old man working his woodworking magic (being an old electrician he is quite good with most tools).










About to testfit the right side of the sub-enclosure.










The old man is not 100% satisfied (notice his dissaproving looks )










Both sides fitted and glued.










Next up are the wings, that will complete the wall-part of the box. It needs a little work though, as it doesn't clear the door completely.










Little work, now it clears the door 










Stuff for the build.










The box after getting a spray-tan.










To match the cabin interior better I glued felt on the front of the subwoofer box, and declared the box finished.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

I am liking this - kudos so far -especially on equipment choice!


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

chithead said:


> I am liking this - kudos so far -especially on equipment choice!


Thanks.. As written it is quite a mixed bag, but I do think all of it is of good quality. Being from Denmark (and having worked at Peerless), I do have a certain bias towards drivers from scandinavia :-D


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

The top part of the wall didn't escape my hands either. I wanted to get rid of the noise from the cargo area and also improve the looks of the cabin.









Laying out two layers of "Silent Coat" on the rear of the wall.

















Giving the cabin side of the wall a layer of felt.









Now with the window back in, it looks like the car was born with it.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Hmm... That roof, probably doesn't have much damping material from VW up there, right..









Right.. Just a small patch to remove a resonance, I guess.









Two layers of Silent Coat in the roof.









Plus a nice layer of Basotect between the silentcoat and the interior panel.









With a small cutout, tadaaaa...









Roof panel back in place.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Next up, the doors...
Stock door, definitely need an upgrade here.










Since I wanted to keep a clean and fairly stock look, I opted for Jehnert (German made) door panels. The colour of the pleather is not a 100% match, but it is close enough that no one will notice.










Mounted to the stock panels.
Notice the metal adapters. The door panels are made for 4x6.5" drivers, but having +100 pcs. of very nice 5.25" HDS Peerless drivers in the basement I opted to use 8 of those, instead of buying new 6.5" drivers :-D










Door panel treated with two layers of Silent Coat and foam.


















To avoid the 12m midrange sharing airspace with the 4x5.25" midbass drivers, we fabricated a leaky 1 litre enclosure for the midrange.










Better have a look inside the door as well.
Yep, room for improvement.










Two layers of Silent Coat to the outer door panel.










Re-attaching the middle door panel, and removing the plastic adapter for the stock 6.5" speaker.










Silent Coat on middle door panel.










Doorpanel mounted back in place, niiiice..










A closer look.










My old man preparing the midrange cutout for the 12m.










Yes, this is going to be great.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

All those speakers need amps, and amps need power..

To avoid pulling out the entire cabin interior (seats, carpet, panels, what have you) we routed a 0AWG cable beneath the car, instead of through the firewall (which did not have any suitable stock VW holes), and found a nice VW made passage beneath the drivers seat where we could get it back into the cabin.










2x2F on homemade copper distribution bars (yes, I do believe in caps, please let us not discuss their effect in my build thread).










Power wires should be terminated with a proper crimped lug, at least in my opinion.










Caps and a Genesis DM200 mounted on their "rack". The Genesis is for a future center speaker.










Perfect space under the drivers seat for this.


















Rear view of the drivers seat mount.
0AWG Positive and 0AWG Ground wire.

Wiring as follows (the engineering way)
Positive: Battery -> Copper Cap Bar -> Rear of car
Ground: Chassis lug under front seat -> Copper Cap Bar -> Rear of car


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Dope! Keep them coming.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Moving into the cargo area, which is where the rest of the amplifiers and the MS-8 will be mounted.

Left side covers removed, all electronics will reside behind the panels.










First piece of an amp-rack, made of black MDF.










Test fitting with the Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 and the Celestra DA2K on the rack.


















A closer look at the homemade copper distribution bars, where the 2x0 AWG wires will be connected.










Good thing the Helix A4 Competition is slimmer than most other amplifiers, otherwise it would not fit in the available space.
The MDF mounts has been attached to the amplifier.










In it goes, a perfect fit. I can still reach all the neccessary adjustments on it.










Wiring done. Yes, the RCA wires was an intermediate thing, just to get the music playing.










A bunch of tools used for the project.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

What is left now.. Let us see.. Ahhh yes, wiring for the speakers and a stereo RCA cable from the headunit.

Wires for tweeters (two set of wires for a potential dual-tweeter setup in the dash, which is also the reason for using the 4-channel Helix amplifier for the tweeters)
Wires for door mounted midrange and door midbass
That is 4 sets of speaker wires from each side, here are the 4 sets routed in the right a-pillar.










Showing how the 4 sets of speaker wires are routed from the right side of the car to the left. Plenty of space up there for that.










Left a-pillar, another 4 sets of speaker wire plus one stereo RCA cable from the headunit.










Let's wire 
Every speaker wire from the front will enter the cargo area in that upper left corner.










8 sets of speaker wire and the stereo RCA routed into the cargo area.










*All done and covers back on.*
Almost done, that is. I still need to make a nice cover for the bunch of wires visible in the cargo area.


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## CLK63DK (Nov 20, 2010)

Hej,

det ser fint ud!


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

CLK63DK said:


> Hej,
> 
> det ser fint ud!


Hej til Sverige 

Thanks a lot / Mange tak..


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## sinister-kustoms (Jul 22, 2009)

Awesome install, those doors look loud! 
Cool to see the old man lending a hand!


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

sinister-kustoms said:


> Awesome install, those doors look loud!
> Cool to see the old man lending a hand!


4 x 5.25" roughly equals the cone area of a single 10", so yes, that should be enough for me :laugh:

My dad loves to help, he is not an audio guy himself, but enjoys building things and doing it right.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

*The view from the drivers seat.*

Sorry about the bad image quality.

The drivers side mids (midrange + midbass) as seen from the drivers seat.
*Note:* Only the upper two 5.25" and the 12m are visible from the drivers point of view.









The passengers side mids (midrange + midbass) as seen from the drivers seat.
*Note:* Only the 12m is visible from the drivers point of view.









The drivers side tweeter as seen from the drivers seat.
*Note:* My camera angle must have been slightly off, because I can actually see the grille in the corner of the dashboard when I am in the drivers seat.









The passengers side tweeter as seen from the drivers seat.
*Note:* The speaker grille is not visible from the drivers seat.


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## niceguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Sheesh, that's an awesome build, especially those doors. I still love good tight bass, but if I had to choose, I'd pick a well done door setup over subs and stock door speakers....thankfully, I can have both. 

I have an '08 Chevrolet Uplander work van, but my door panels are nowhere as cool to work with as those VW doors.

Congrats on a great job!

Jeremy


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

*Tweeter Pods*

I have decided to try putting the tweeters into a set of pods, as I am not really satisfied with their sound when located beneath the stock dash grill.

Fresh out of the 3D printer, the pod looks like this. Notice how the inside of the pod is full of support material, this is removed with a thorough cleaning.




















After the first round of cleaning, they look like this.


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## req (Aug 4, 2007)

awesome! 3D printing is the future of car audio!

do you have a 3D printer? if you do im going to have to talk with you


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

req said:


> awesome! 3D printing is the future of car audio!
> 
> do you have a 3D printer? if you do im going to have to talk with you


Indeed 3D printing is VERY cool. For my old install I printed pods for my ScanSpeak 12m midranges :-D

The printer belongs to my workplace, and I can use it as long as I am not abusing it too much  It's one of these: 
Objet Eden 350 & Eden 350V


*After final cleaning, the pods look like this:*


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Nice job on the install!

I wished I had the patience to draw such beautiful things on the computer, and had a 3D printer to make it real!

I used to have an almost full Peerless setup: Dual Peerless XXLS 12" 830844, (a pair of Soundstream SS8's), 2 pairs of Peerless HDS Exclusive 5.5", and a pair of HDS tweeters off-course...
I've sold that car and the next one (which I still own, a Volvo 940 diesel) doesn't allow for 5.5" mids and full-size tweeters on/in the dashboard, so I've sold those HDS Exclusives and HDS tweeters... Probably should have kept them for a home-audio project...

After a bit more than 2 years sitting in the driveway in favor for a few other faster and/or more practical, but less reliable cars, we decided to use my slow but great old Volvo 940 again and I still have my Peerless XXLS subs to go in it!

I'm considering 2 pairs of Peerless SLS8's or a single pair of SLS10's to replace my Soundstream SS8's, but I'm not sure about that yet, it'll depend on how the old SS8's keep up with the XXLS'es and the TangBand W4-1337 mids...

I'd sure like to try those Scanspeak 12M's in my car one day, combined with a pair of R2004/602000 tweeters, must sound great and take good use of my Genesis Dual Mono's!

PS.: I was very close to Denmark just a week ago: We've found a campervan that looked interesting and went to see it in "Beverstedt", Germany. Unfortunately, the van was a rustbucket with a worn engine and a thick layer of putty and paint on it...

Greetings from Belgium,
Isabelle


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## CLK63DK (Nov 20, 2010)

Very nice!

Har du flere 12M?


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Candisa said:


> Nice job on the install!
> 
> I wished I had the patience to draw such beautiful things on the computer, and had a 3D printer to make it real!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliment.
One of my close friends is a mechanical engineer and does 3D CAD work most of his workday, he draws the stuff I need, and is pretty good at it 

The HDS series is very nice indeed, I wish I had gotten my hands on some of the original prototypes of the HDS tweeters. I was working in the Peerless R&D department when the design was finalized. The entire HDS series represent extremely good value for money in my opinion.



Candisa said:


> I'm considering 2 pairs of Peerless SLS8's or a single pair of SLS10's to replace my Soundstream SS8's, but I'm not sure about that yet, it'll depend on how the old SS8's keep up with the XXLS'es and the TangBand W4-1337 mids...


I used a custom version of the SLS8 door mounted in my old car (VW Transporter T4). A very very nice midbass, but in my opinion not suited to play above 250Hz (I used it up to 300Hz which worked okay, but I only did so because the 12M's did not like playing loud at 250Hz).



Candisa said:


> I'd sure like to try those Scanspeak 12M's in my car one day, combined with a pair of R2004/602000 tweeters, must sound great and take good use of my Genesis Dual Mono's!


The 12M's are great drivers, one of my best purchases yet, though I wish they would play a little louder  As to the R2004/602000, definitely a high end tweeter, but I am not very fund of their weird dispersion pattern.

My home speakers use the R2904/70000 (the revised version with the slightly smaller phaseplug), and I love them dearly, they are incredibly good.



Candisa said:


> PS.: I was very close to Denmark just a week ago: We've found a campervan that looked interesting and went to see it in "Beverstedt", Germany. Unfortunately, the van was a rustbucket with a worn engine and a thick layer of putty and paint on it...


Denmark is nice, but you should visit Denmark during summertime. I was only once in Belgium, and had to stay over night because my car broke down (driving back after motorbike racing in mid-france). It was a nightmare since we only had credit cards, but no cash, and credit cards didn't work anywhere but at the hotel and in restaurants.



CLK63DK said:


> Very nice!
> Har du flere 12M?


Jeg har et sæt af Alpine udgaven, som skal bruges til min centerhøjttaler.


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Time for a *Tweeter Pod Update* 

I installed the pods temporarily today, just wanted to play around with them a little. The intention was to paint them in a grey colour that matches the interior, but after installing them as is, I think they match pretty well in their original "black velour"-color.

First impression is very good, spend two hours listening to them on the drive back home from my parents. Though the JBL MS-8 has not been recalibrated yet.

*Left Tweeter Pod installed* (Note: The view matches very closely to my view from the drivers seat!)











*Right Tweeter Pod installed* (Note: The view matches very closely to my view from the drivers seat!)











*Left Tweeter Pod Close Up* (Sorry about the image quality, it is a 100% cropped zoom from my DSLR)


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## trumpet (Nov 14, 2010)

I have 2" speakers in plastic pods which I had been using just the same way you have your tweeter pods located. I'm sure they were playing a couple more octaves than your tweeters are playing, but since I moved them next to the A-pillars the clarity has improved. I'm sure this is from reduced early reflections.


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Simple, but nice job on the tweeters. Hopefully it works out, but you might indeed have some early reflections of the windshield, or maybe not... Caraudio is a matter of testing, tweaking, testing, tweaking... You get the picture...

I've heard a rumor that SB-Acoustics drivers are designed by people that used to work for Scanspeak, any idea if this is true? We're considering a good sounding, but kind of laid-back and affordable 2-ways setup in the back of the campervan, and those SB-Acoustics midwoofers and tweeters sure look nice on paper...

About that camper: We're just back from a trip to Amsterdam where we inspected another Mercedes-Benz L206D aka Hanomag F20 campervan. The exact same model as the one in Germany, but no multiple thick layers of paint to hide everything and a much better price, which leaves us some budget to restore it properly if the condition isn't too bad...
Well, the condition isn't too bad, so we bought it! As soon as we can rent a mini-semi to transport it (clutch is shot and MOT is expired), we'll be picking it up and bringing it to a friend of ours who will fix it... Afterwards we'll hopefully get new MOT on it and start up the import-procedure...
So maybe we'll be actually visiting Denmark next summer!

Keep up the good work and sorry about the off-topic!

greetings from Belgium,
Isabelle


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

trumpet said:


> I have 2" speakers in plastic pods which I had been using just the same way you have your tweeter pods located. I'm sure they were playing a couple more octaves than your tweeters are playing, but since I moved them next to the A-pillars the clarity has improved. I'm sure this is from reduced early reflections.


In my experience and opinion, there are always several ways to reach the goal. I want a discreet and preferably stealth looking install, that is why I started out with tweeters in the stock locations. Moving the tweeter pods away from the corner defeats two purposes for me:
1. It will be less discreet.
2. One tweeter will be significantly closer to the listener, which is bad when you want both passengers to have decent sound.



Candisa said:


> Simple, but nice job on the tweeters. Hopefully it works out, but you might indeed have some early reflections of the windshield, or maybe not... Caraudio is a matter of testing, tweaking, testing, tweaking... You get the picture...
> 
> I've heard a rumor that SB-Acoustics drivers are designed by people that used to work for Scanspeak, any idea if this is true? We're considering a good sounding, but kind of laid-back and affordable 2-ways setup in the back of the campervan, and those SB-Acoustics midwoofers and tweeters sure look nice on paper...
> 
> So maybe we'll be actually visiting Denmark next summer!


SB Acoustics are indeed made by former ScanSpeak employees, a few of them are acquaintances, so I know it is true. I had considered using SB Acoustics drivers myself, but settled for what I had in stock already 

Car audio is indeed testing, tweaking, testing, tweaking... It is very seldom that there is but one good answer to a specific problem in car audio acoustics.

I will not be able to play with it more this week though, since I am flying to San Francisco on Thursday for the AES Convention. 4 days full of audio topics, paper sessions, discussions and the like, it is going to be great.

AES San Francisco 2012 » 133rd Convention

It would be fun seeing you in Denmark next summer and have a little car audio chat


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

Thanks for the clarification about SB-Acoustics, gave us some more trust to invest in a set of this brand to check out!

We sure hope to get the camper legally running by next summer!

Isabelle


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## Wesayso (Jul 20, 2010)

Great install! I remember it from the "What size sub-/midbasswoofers have you squeezed in your doors?" thread. Good to see another member printing 3D tweeter mounts. I'm envious your place of work has it's own 3D printer. I had to do it commercially online.


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## Hanatsu (Nov 9, 2010)

Nice build, looks awesome. Love to hear it sometime. I have work in Malmö once in a while. Quite interested in listening to the 12M midrange again, almost two years since I heard it last time, ended up buying 12MU instead. I have a slight bias towards the danish drivers, never really been disappointed with anything from Scan, Vifa and Peerless. Have a pair of Bang Olufsen S80 from the 70's, still rocking 

How are you planning to set the crossovers between midbass / midrange btw?


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## JJAZ (Feb 17, 2006)

Hanatsu said:


> Nice build, looks awesome. Love to hear it sometime. I have work in Malmö once in a while. Quite interested in listening to the 12M midrange again, almost two years since I heard it last time, ended up buying 12MU instead. I have a slight bias towards the danish drivers, never really been disappointed with anything from Scan, Vifa and Peerless. Have a pair of Bang Olufsen S80 from the 70's, still rocking


I am a big fan on danish drivers as well, which is quite obvious from my installs  Personally I find it difficult to justify the ridiculous pricetag for the SS MU drivers, but they are very very nice indeed.



Hanatsu said:


> How are you planning to set the crossovers between midbass / midrange btw?


Currently the crossovers (all are 24dB/oct.) are like this:
Sub/low-mid: 90HZ
Low-mid/high-mid: 350Hz
High-mid/tweeter: 3.5k

I used Dayton OmniMic to measure the response of each set of drivers, and chose the crossover points based on that.


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