# 2010 Nissan Maxima SV Install



## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

Purchased car in December 2010. The factory BOSE system licks monkey balls. Really muddy midbass, no clear highs and muffled midrange. Unfortunately I have the Navigation package, so I'm stuck using the factory source unit. 

The goal was to have a really good sounding system that can get loud with minimal custom work.

Head Unit: Factory DVD/CD player with Bluetooth, Bluetooth Audio, USB, IPOD, Aux In

OEM Integration Piece: Audio Control LC2i (tapped the signal using the front inputs - before the bose amp)

Front Tweeter and Mid Amp: Rockford Fosgate T4004

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T5002

Subs: 2 x 12" Kaption Audio SPL 1200

Enclosure: 2 cubic feet sealed

Mids: Hybrid Audio L6

Tweeters: DLS UR1

Crossovers for Mids and Tweets: Hertz Mille MLCX2 (bi-wiring for mids and tweets)

Power Wire: Stinger 2 gauge

Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme (trunk and trunk lid) - will do rear deck and doors later

Power wire and fuse holder:



Door off and Cascade Engineering Deflex Pad Mounted and Stinger 16 gauge wire for mid:



Factory 6 x 9:



Modified factory spacer:



Hybrid Audio L6 mounted:



Factory Bose Tweeter:



DLS UR1 Tweeter with plate:



Factory Tweeter Cover:



Audio Control LC2i Bass Controller:



Factory Nav/DVD Player:


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

Amplifiers mounted on a 1" mdf board. Barely fit with only about 1" to spare. This was taken before wires were cleaned up:



Will have to redo the subwoofer trim covers later:



After hours of tuning I'm finally happy with the sound. The mids get very loud, with very good clean midbass/midrange. The tweeters sound amazing in the factory location. I still have the factory center speaker installed and it really helps with the imaging. I have a really wide, high, centered sound stage. I hope you enjoyed the pics.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Good job...at least I think so!


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## Vital (Feb 23, 2010)

Nice so far but please do fix that carpet covering the subs lol.
Also you have your amps mounted to mdf which isn't the best thing to do to be honest (not that it's a huge no-no but plywood would work better) since screws can easily strip mdf and it's very sensitive to moisture. If that mdf is a part of your sub box i'd say lay another layer of plywood on top and mount your amps on it.

I see you also have a wire going from bat neg to chassy and then of to ... engine block??
Lookes like BIG3 but i don't see alt+ to bat+ wire, unless you just did a grounding kit.


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## tibug (Jan 22, 2011)

Vital said:


> Nice so far but please do fix that carpet covering the subs lol.
> Also you have your amps mounted to mdf which isn't the best thing to do to be honest (not that it's a huge no-no but plywood would work better) since screws can easily strip mdf and it's very sensitive to moisture. If that mdf is a part of your sub box i'd say lay another layer of plywood on top and mount your amps on it.
> 
> I see you also have a wire going from bat neg to chassy and then of to ... engine block??
> Lookes like BIG3 but i don't see alt+ to bat+ wire, unless you just did a grounding kit.


I'd think screws in the MDF would be fine for keeping a couple amps secured. It doesn't strip THAT easy in my experience.

As for the moisture...I think he's got bigger problems if his 2010 vehicle is leaking water into the trunk. Also, if it's leaking water onto the mdf, then it's leaking water onto the amps, which also takes precedence over ruining the mdf, in my opinion.


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

It's just a grounding kit. The amps are mounted on a 1" MDF board and then screwed onto two pieces of 1" thick MDF blocks (5" x 12") and those are screwed on the back of the sub box.


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## bikerider (Dec 28, 2008)

Looks good, the new Maximas are very nice.

MDF in the trunk is not a big issue, especially on newer cars where things stay pretty dry.


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## mine4118 (Dec 31, 2010)

how do you like the DLS tweets up there???


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## loudstreetrides (Nov 10, 2008)

nice install


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## Afronaut (Apr 27, 2010)

Looks good


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

The DLS Tweeters sound very smooth in the factory locations. Not bright or harsh at all.


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## jrs1006 (Sep 19, 2010)

Nice Job. Looks good.


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## starbai (Jan 28, 2010)

For the LC2i, did you have to run some sort of remote power turn on? 

Theres supposed to be some kind of 'input sensing signal' I think that turns it on once sound starts flowing to it. Is that the case? Or am I misled? I think the unit even has its own remote turn on output that can be put into the amp... 

Any clarification on this would be greatly appreciated!


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

It does have some type of signal sensing turn on. It does have a remote turn out output. But I ran a remote wire because it was so easy.


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## ikoolguy (Oct 23, 2009)

awesome job! looks simple and clean!

how does your mid's sound? i'm curious because i have a 2008 altima Sl with Navi/bose and i noticed you're only using LC2. i'm using a 6channel Memphis 6ix sound processor and i'm only getting Hi sounding output and no kind of mid bass at all. the installer tapped into the bose harness to get signal. i can't tell you anymore details after that lol

all in all i'm just not satisfy of the outcome. the lack of midbass really does make a difference especially whenever i take my sub out. i've been looking into the LC2 or other options. any advice will help.

a little information about my car and set up
the altima have a 9 speaker bose/navigation system
2 front tweeters(hi's)
2 front doors (hi, mids, low)
1 center, 
2 rear door speakers (mids) 
2 rear deck speakers(subwoofer/low).

current set up
pioneer stage 4 in the front
no rear stage
single 8w7 ported 
amps - jl audio 250/1 and 300/4
processor - memphis 16 6ix


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## mb3law (Aug 23, 2012)

Platinum300

Guidance as to how you tapped into the signal pre-bose amp:
1) did you tap in behind the deck or in the trunk?
2) which signal did you feed off of? front, rear, etc? wire colors?
3) what color is the remote turn on you used up front?

Any pictures would be super appreciated. I have a 2010 without Nav. I installed 2 12" diamond audio subs and a JL HD750/1 in the trunk. I have to say it was a nightmare due to how "proprietary" bose is with their wire coding, etc. I only used a simple LOC and the sound is good, but I know it can be better. I am very interested in upgrading to the Audio Control LC unit you used. Just want to make sure I get the best signal!!

I love the install. If I had the time I have always dreamed of gutting the highs and mids myself and using factory corner locations for CDT Audio 3 1/2" mids, a dual tweeter set up in the center dash location. CDT 6x9" subwoofer in front doors and so on and so forth to the rear deck and doors.

Just so much wiring and re-wiring and tapping into the signals and using Line Out converters, etc. My hat goes off to you, sir!


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

I tapped the signal at the amp in the trunk. I used the front inputs and the wire colors are:

LF+ white/red, LF- black/red, RF+ white/blue, and RF- gray/purple

I got my remote wire at the fuse box. There are some empty slots in the fuse box. Use a multi-meter and test which one gives you acc power. I used the right one with two empty slots on the bottom row.



mb3law said:


> Platinum300
> 
> Guidance as to how you tapped into the signal pre-bose amp:
> 1) did you tap in behind the deck or in the trunk?
> ...


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## mb3law (Aug 23, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. I am eager to do a LOC swap! I should have asked before....did you tap into any wires in the trunk for the power and ground connections?


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## platinum300 (Dec 24, 2005)

No I didn't.



mb3law said:


> Thanks for the reply. I am eager to do a LOC swap! I should have asked before....did you tap into any wires in the trunk for the power and ground connections?


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

The LC2i really does wonders,alittle finicky to setup but it's a good unit to use with stock HU's.I ran a separate 18awg power wire with a inline 1 amp fuse(recommended by Audio Control) & ground like a normal amp.


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