# power wire ...size for how many watts ?



## ExtremeAcres (Nov 6, 2009)

Hi ...I have 4ga. power wire going to my PDX-5 (at 600W rms) I think that power wire is plenty sufficient ... correct ? ( Rockford Fosgate RFK4 amp kit)

So Im putting a JL HD900 in my other vehicle ... and Im wondering ...can I use 4ga. power wire again ? or should I go to 2 ga... or 1/0ga. ?

basically ...at what wattages do you need to go to fatter ga. power wire ?

(ie ..maybe 500w or less could use 8ga....1000w or less can use 4 ga.... or what wattages need 2ga. or 1/0 ga ? )

Thanks in Advance


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Current draw and length are what is of concern when choosing wire size. Class D amps will draw less current than class A/B's therefore they require smaller wire and the JL is class D. You could easily run the JL amp on 4 gauge. I ran about 1000 watts, one class A/B 4 channel and one class D sub amp from a 4 gauge no problem.

I'll be waiting for the usual "you gotta run big ass 0 gauge" replies.

Go here and go to section 16 called wire on the right side of the page:

http://www.bcae1.com/


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## ExtremeAcres (Nov 6, 2009)

hehe.... thanks man ...I was thinking (and hoping) that I was still in the 4ga zone...


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

4 gauge wire at 15 feet long should support about 1500 watts from a class D amp without any issues at all.


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## SoundChaser (Apr 3, 2009)

“You gotta run big ass 0 gauge”, if you don’t you might regret it in the future. At least that was my case. I started out with an 8 gauge run to a small amp in the trunk. Then I added another amp and ran another 8guage. Tide me over for a while but it wasn’t enough, so I pulled both runs, ran a big ass 0 gauge and added more power. Now i'm happy


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/16816.pdf

Page 5 

2) Run power wire from the battery location
to the amplifier mounting location, taking
care to route it in such a way that it will
not be damaged and will not interfere
with vehicle operation. 4 AWG is the
minimum recommended wire size for
this amplifier. Use a 2 AWG or 1/0 AWG
main power wire with a power distribution
block when additional amplifiers are being
installed with the HD900/5 and powered
from the same main power wire.

I know it's the dumb question section, but damn it helps to read the manual.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Suggesting that someone run 0 gauge wire even though they only need 4 gauge is like telling someone to cut 8" holes in their door even though they are installing 6.5's because they'll want to go bigger in the future.

I ran a system for a few years with a 4 gauge wire. I never switched amps. Not everyone does. If someone knows they are just using a cheap small amp to get them by before they get the good big amps, then yeah, run the bigger wire, but no sense in doing it if you don't plan on needing it.


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## SoundChaser (Apr 3, 2009)

I ran a system for over 6 years with an 8 gauge in my previous vehicle. Never switched out a thing.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

89grand said:


> Suggesting that someone run 0 gauge wire even though they only need 4 gauge is like telling someone to cut 8" holes in their door even though they are installing 6.5's because they'll want to go bigger in the future.


I disagree. The speaker and wiring analogy you made does not work. 

If you install 4 awg, and then decide later that you need to upgrade, you need to pull the 4awg run out, re-do all the work and then you're left with your old wiring to sell at a huge loss. The fact that you can get a 1/0awg kit for only a little bit more than a decent 4awg kit makes it a no-brainer to just go overkill in the first place and then never have to worry about it. It's an infrastructure thing. Wiring is not really equipment, so much as a means to hook up equipment, wouldn't you want it to be as flexible as possible for whatever you want to throw at it? Note that I agree, 1/0 is overkill. But we're talking about a 20 dollar difference for peace of mind that your power wire will pretty much ALWAYS be big enough for whatever you want to install. To me that is worth the extra money. 

As far as cutting 8 inch holes for 6.5 drivers, I see what you're trying to say but it doesn't work. That's not overkill in anyway, it doesn't really relate. You can't install a 6.5 inch driver in an 8 inch hole, you can install 1/0 wire and run any amplifier off of it. 

The ONLY downside to running larger than nec wire is the cost difference, which to me is negligible.

My point is, there is no downside to having extra capacity and the monetary difference is minimal. That's why if I see people looking to install multiple amps I recommend they use 1/0 from the beginning. I like knowing that I have the capability to expand without having to add extra wiring. 

As one other person posted, My first system had a single 8 awg run, then I ran a second for the second amp, then upgraded to 4. ran that for a while then decided I needed a little bit more capability. Rather than put myself through upgrading it over and over again, I simply could have gotten 0 awg in the first place, and NEVER had to buy another power wire again. It would have been cheaper in the long run too.

And maybe things have changed on this site, maybe we've got a different demographic of car audio fanatic than we used to, but it used to be that people on this site were interested in experimenting and changed out gear regularly. My feeling is that if you are experimenting with your system, big wire is a must.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Experimenting and changing out gear doesn't necessarily require larger wire, only if changing out amplifiers for much more powerful ones and your power wire size was marginal to begin with. I'd never run 0 gauge wire unless I was trying to put together a SPL system. Any reasonably powerful system would do fine with 4 gauge wire.

4 gauge wire easily support 1000+ watts. I personally have no reason to go anywhere near 2500 watts where 0 gauge starts to be necessary.

It's not like we are playing test tones. Even if you add up the maximum current draw of all of your amps, you are never going to see that or even very close to that in real word use so there's really no need to go over board with power wire. I don't care if anybody chooses to, but I won't suggest it.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

I'm not debating that it won't work but I like to follow what it says in the manual most of the time as I am paranoid about things like that. That said it does make sense to me, from an upgrade point of view, to do it once and be done.


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

0 gauge analogy is like buying 20 acres and only using 10 of them. Maybe you'll use them in the future though, but that's up to you.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I would not use the acreage analogy, because remember, it's not a constant DRAW. It's more like having a substation to run your house, you never know if you are gonna use it all.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

just order a pitcher and then you can always drink less !


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

chad said:


> I would not use the acreage analogy, because remember, it's not a constant DRAW. It's more like having a substation to run your house, you never know if you are gonna use it all.


lol. This is a funny thread.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

schmiddr2 said:


> 0 gauge analogy is like buying 20 acres and only using 10 of them. Maybe you'll use them in the future though, but that's up to you.


not even close to a good analogy. the law of diminishing returns tells you that the cost per acres buying 20 will be less than the cost per acre buying 10 for any non-commercial application. if you buy 10 acres and want more down the road the chances of being able to get more located directly next to yours is practically impossible. 

to make it simple lets say 4g wire is $1 per foot. you need ~25ft for power and ground lines, so $25. 0g costs $2 per foot, or $50 to do the same job. so if you spend $25 now for 4g and decide to add an amp(s) or upgrade to larger versions you go to 0g, another $50. now you have spent $75 total and tripled your work time (4g install, 4g removal, 0g install). this does not even take into account the various other items that will be needed, and cost more money, like ring terminals and distros. yes you could possibly sell your used 4g for $10-15 but it's easier and cheaper to just do it once and be done with it. this applies 10-fold to people new to car audio. there is not a single person on this board who is running the same equipment, with the same power needs, as when they started.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

LOL. I was struggling to come up with a good analogy for it too, there isn't one. How about, it's like installing a 6 inch sewer pipe when all you need is a 4 inch one? That to me is the best one I can come up with. You don't need more volume, but if you do, you sure are thankful the capability is there. 

I had two Rockford Power series amps, a T4004 and a T3002 Each amp was fused at 80 amps. I understand that I wasn't pulling 160 amps even when running those amps at full power, but I don't like living on the edge, so 0 awg it was. I don't consider a 100 wpc 4 channel and a 600 watt 2 channel to be excessive power, but they had the capability to pull more power than a 4 awg wire was rated for. I think of it as power headroom. I have more than enough capable for any amplifiers I will ever pick up. Also, the kicker 1/0 kit was 100 dollars shipped. It's just wire, it's not like I installed a second alternator just to run 1000 watts. I don't see how smaller wire would have been a better option. 

Also since I have a quick disconnect on my power line, I could use them for jumper cables, an electric winch, a battery charger, Auxilary lights for grilling at night....any other ridiculous 12v contraption you can think of that will plug into a battery quick disconect....


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Well I don't like running huge wire through the car when I don't need it.

I also don't see how anybody knows that everyone will use larger amps in the future, large enough amps to require 0 gauge. I know I'll never need it, even less so since my battery is in the back within a foot or two from where my amps will go.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

89grand said:


> I also don't see how anybody knows that everyone will use larger amps in the future, large enough amps to require 0 gauge.




are you using the same amp(s) that were in your first system? if not, are you using smaller amps now?

you can use one of my cars for an example. last year i was running a cadence txa-3004 and txa-6004, each of which only required 8g. i did everything with 4g and then used a distro for the pair. changed out my amps to pdx this summer and they each required 4g. i had to rip it out and start over, or add another run of 4g to power the second amp which would have required another inline fuse and holder. it would have been much cheaper and less work for me to do everything larger the first time.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

nineball said:


> are you using the same amp(s) that were in your first system? if not, are you using smaller amps now?
> 
> you can use one of my cars for an example. last year i was running a cadence txa-3004 and txa-6004, each of which only required 8g. i did everything with 4g and then used a distro for the pair. changed out my amps to pdx this summer and they each required 4g. i had to rip it out and start over, or add another run of 4g to power the second amp which would have required another inline fuse and holder. it would have been much cheaper and less work for me to do everything larger the first time.


Sounds to me like you got taken by Alpine. Sure they recommend 4 gauge, but I can't imagine any of those class D amps pulling enough current to require 4 gauge. A couple of feet of 8 gauge from a distribution would not have been a problem.

The answer to the OP's question is going to depend on what he does with his system. I have a 4 gauge run in my car to 2 8 gauge runs to my amps. I'm glad I didn't spend more on 0 gauge because I personally will never need it and the 4 gauge was easier to run. That doesn't mean that the OP will never need 0 gauge, it just means that I didn't and for me 0 gauge is completely unnecessary. If the OP is on the fence, it's probably better to go with 0 gauge, but most 2 amp systems can get away with 4 gauge no problem.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

nineball said:


> are you using the same amp(s) that were in your first system? if not, are you using smaller amps now?


I've never ran much over 1000 watts total and I doubt I ever will. Not everyone doubles or triples their power over time.

I totaled my last car with a system in it, but I had a JBL GTO 600.1 and a GTO 75.4. I wouldn't have ever changed out those amps unless they died, and if they did, I would have bought something with similar power. These days with class D becoming so common, it's becoming even less necessary to run huge wire.

Again, I don't care if people run wire so big they have a huge lump in their carpet, but I only use what I need. 4 gauge can support quite a bit of power, but if some people need more they need more, but not everyone needs 0 gauge. Plus the OP was asking about a JL 900/5. That amp does not need anything larger than 4 gauge. Now, if he had said "I'll probably be adding another one in the future, or another big sub amp in addition to the 900/5" then yeah, I would have said just use bigger wire now.

I think many people would be surprised to see how little average current their amps actually draw during typical music listening. Personally I think calculating wire size need based off total maximum current draw of all amps is a bit silly since it never happens.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

89grand said:


> I think many people would be surprised to see how little average current their amps actually draw during typical music listening. Personally I think calculating wire size need based off total maximum current draw of all amps is a bit silly since it never happens.


Much the same way that setting your gains with a 0db test tone and a multimeter is silly.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

you guys are still forgetting, well some are, that 4 ga will be JUST FINE for all but the most extreme applications. Because music is dynamic and IF you exceed the rated CONSTANT DRAW load of the wire for a brief time, it will not flippin evaporate. 

Good thing homes don't have to rate their wiring for the inrush of a light bulb.. or cars rating for the inrush of a headlamp.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Just for the record, I had an Alpine PDX-4.150 and a PDX-1.600 and although I sold them before I ever used them, I was going to run 8 gauge to each one from one 4 gauge through a distribution block.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

There's no kill like overkill. And I will say again, the cost over 4awg was minimal, why wouldn't you do it? I've always used the BCAE calculators to calculate the size wire I need. It usually comes out right on the cusp of 4 and 2 awg. Most manufacturer's don't offer 2awg, or even 1 awg, they jump right from 4 to 0. So 0 awg it was. Like I said, I know it's overkill. I know I don't need it. But I like the peace of mind of knowing that there is never anything I will hook up that will ever come close to taxing that wiring. It's easy. It's in the car, and I don't have to worry about it. There are no lumps under my carpet, it runs back through the factory wiring loom. It's very convenient, and again...100 dollars, so minimal. 

You never know what someone is going to want to do down the road. That's why I always recommend bigger wire. Newbies especially don't know what they need, or what direction they might go with their systems. What might start with just 500 watts for a subwoofer could end up with a 1500 watts of class A/B power. It's just easier to put it in upfront, and then not worry about it ever. That's my philosophy on it. I know it's overkill, that's the point.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Well see, that's what the forum is about. We discuss and or disagree, then the OP or anyone else that reads this, can decide based off of what we've said, what route they think makes the most sense. 

Some (including me) say 4 gauge is more than enough.
Some say go overkill now just in case.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

glad we agree


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## RBeachTL (Jul 21, 2008)

A good reference for this discussion is:

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies

You should make sure that you check out the voltage drop calculator at the bottom of the web page. Try some different parameters that would be applicable to your installation and see the difference in voltage drop that different size power cables would make. As an example for a run of 20' at 12 VDC and with a nominal current draw of 30 amps you get about 0.8 V drop with 8 AWG cable and with 4 AWG you are at 0.3 V; with 0/1 you get down to 0.1 V. You decide what works for you.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Again, this calculator is for a 100% duty cycle scenario.


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## RBeachTL (Jul 21, 2008)

chad said:


> Again, this calculator is for a 100% duty cycle scenario.


Right, which is why I gave examples for a 30 amp current draw. This seems like a reasonable steady state current draw for two reasonably high power amplifiers. Don't you think?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I'd say safe. But again, some people have different views on "reasonably powerful" 


But since this is not an SPL forum I think we are fine


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## ExtremeAcres (Nov 6, 2009)

hahahah.... you guys are funny ... 89grand...you called it in the first reply :laugh:

I'm glad though ...some good things came up that I didnt think about (like checking the manual :blush: ...doh ! )

anyways ...I dont think Im ever upgrading (I cant afford to:surprised ... I've had a good system in the past..and had it for many many years...in 3 different vehicles...lol...and i was content..I think I'll be happy with it as long as i do it up right.

I'm just trying to do everything as right as i can the first time ...and be good to go... But for the guys who know how they are ...Always upgrading ...I can totally see your points as to why wiring , would be One thing You just do _to the max _ the first time

thanks ... you guys rock:rockstar:


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

gijoe said:


> Sounds to me like you got taken by Alpine.


taken by alpine? are you serious? the company that made a product says to use a specific accessory for it and you think they are trying to take advantage of the consumer somehow? last time i checked alpine did not make power wire so please show us all how we are being taken. having something intelligent to say on the topic is one thing but making that accusation is not.


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

nineball said:


> taken by alpine? are you serious? the company that made a product says to use a specific accessory for it and you think they are trying to take advantage of the consumer somehow? last time i checked alpine did not make power wire so please show us all how we are being taken. having something intelligent to say on the topic is one thing but making that accusation is not.


Haha, a little defensive aren't you? Alpine suggests it, but it isn't necessary. Those Class D amps will not pull enough current to require 4 gauge each for music. Running 8 gauge from a distribution block would have been plenty safe. It wasn't an accusation, more of a lesson, and I think it was a fairly intelligent one. You say I'm the unintelligent one, but you ripped up and rewired your car for 2 new amps that could have easily operated safely with the wire you had.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

what exactly is defensive? i am agreeing with the manufacturer's specs for their product. i never said you were unintelligent i said making the statement that alpine is is trying to "take" the consumers is. sounds like you are a little defensive and taking all comments to heart. 

if a car made by ford calls for 10w20 oil then would you use 20w50? following your logic they both do the same thing - lubricate moving engine parts. one however cannot do the same job that the recommended weight can. 

the choice of wire anyone makes it ultimately their own. some choose to follow the specs of the amp(s) and some do not. specs are made for a reason. 

feel free to get in at least one more post here to satisfy your urges to get the last word in. what needed to be said in this thread has been.


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## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

nineball said:


> feel free to get in at least one more post here to satisfy your urges to get the last word in. what needed to be said in this thread has been.


As of now you have the last word. But if he responds then his character in this matter is as you have described, petty. I get it; it's a trick.

WORD


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## Lars Ulriched (Oct 31, 2009)

schmiddr2 said:


> As of now you have the last word. But if he responds then his character in this matter is as you have described, petty. I get it; it's a trick.
> 
> WORD


Hahahaha....u r all so funny....but nice...


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

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Default Re: PDX1.1000 is blowing fuses...
quote from Jacob Fuller aka Sundownz on CA

*"It is a known issue that I have heard from Alpine dealers - they all told me that they put in 4x 25-amp fuses and its good to go."*
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Old 08-30-2009 #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: PDX1.1000 is blowing fuses...
Alpine PDX 1.1000 keeps blowing fuses. Please help! - G35Driver

quote:
Keep going.. turn the knob a little past half way (0.5volts), and the sub shuts off... okay at this point I am scared that I melted a voice coil or something.. But that makes no sense, because a PDX1.1000 can fully power the type x without overpowering it, and this amp is rated for 1000RMS, so its probably under that.

I go and check the fuse, what do you know the 80amp? glass AGU fuse is blown...
quote:



quote:
I have a Alpine pdx1.1000 on 2 12" db drive platinum series. when the bass hits its cuts off. If I unplug one sub it doesnt cut off and both subs work fine when I plug them in one at a time. its when both are plugged in it cuts off and comes back on. It worked fine until tonight. thanks in advance
quote:

*Lil Humor coming*

quote>
If you are looking for the best top of the line amplifier for your subwoofer, than this is it. The Alpine PDX-1.1000 1,000 watt pure RMS 4 channel PDX series car amplifier sound more like 3,000 watts, and this amp is built better than any amp on the market. These have the highest quality low pass bass crossovers, so every hit is precise and clean.* This amp will not let you down. This amp kicks out massive amounts of power*
quote>

*They are what they are ...*


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

89grand said:


> I'll be waiting for the usual "you gotta run big ass 0 gauge" replies.



This is the only reason I replied in the first place. 

Ultimately, you can do one of two things:
1. RTFM and do what it says.
2. Use BCAE1.com calculators and decide for yourself based on your current or possibly future needs. 

I'm just saying a small investment upfront can save effort, time and money down the road.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

a$$hole said:


> Default Re: PDX1.1000 is blowing fuses...
> quote from Jacob Fuller aka Sundownz on CA
> 
> *"It is a known issue that I have heard from Alpine dealers - they all told me that they put in 4x 25-amp fuses and its good to go."*


actually the original versions of the pdx did come with 4x20 fuses and they were later upgraded by alpine to 4x25. so far so good for me.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

but most users that aren't bassheads could pull 2 of the 20A fuses and get by just fine. It's the people that run the amp at a 1 ohm load and go for knocking satellites out of orbit are the ones that have issues.


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

chad said:


> It's the people that run the amp at a 1 ohm load and go for knocking satellites out of orbit are the ones that have issues.


well that is a whole different ballgame. running an amp lower than it is supposed to is just begging for problems.


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## don_chuwish (Oct 29, 2009)

Hilarious how a simple question in "The Dumb Question forum" sparks such a debate. The beauty of the online forum! I see the valid points on all sides and it really comes down to the specific situation. Never gonna add more amps or more powerful amps for sure? Run what the charts specify, smaller wire is easier to run and cheaper. Not sure how hard the audio bug will bite you? Put in some real infrastructure and go with the big stuff. Good lessons.

- D


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

nineball said:


> what exactly is defensive? i am agreeing with the manufacturer's specs for their product. i never said you were unintelligent i said making the statement that alpine is is trying to "take" the consumers is. sounds like you are a little defensive and taking all comments to heart.
> 
> if a car made by ford calls for 10w20 oil then would you use 20w50? following your logic they both do the same thing - lubricate moving engine parts. one however cannot do the same job that the recommended weight can.
> 
> ...


Ok, it looks like we are butting heads over a simple communication breakdown. My aim was not to offend. The example of the engine oil you used is actually a perfect example, it's common practice for people who live in different regions to use different weights of oil in their car based on the local climate. The manufacturer may recommend one weight, but that doesn't necessarily mean that that weight is most appropriate for the climate you live in. A car in Wisconsin will run better with a different weight than the same car in Arizona.

My point is simply: A manufacturers recommendation is just that, a recommendation. It's a good place to start but each individual situation will dictate. As Chad has mentioned, amps rarely pull their max current and even if they do for a moment your wire isn't going to burst into flames.


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## Lars Ulriched (Oct 31, 2009)

I agree with the idea of going after the cabling once and for all and be done with it.....safer and economical in the long run....but for SQ 4 awg for amp should be enough...and 0awg for Big 3...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

dear god man.


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## 89grand (Nov 23, 2006)

Lars Ulriched said:


> 0awg for Big 3...


Uhhh...I don't get it.

My gut says that makes no sense at all.


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## HertzGuy (Jan 23, 2010)

Sorry to drudge up this old thread but hate to start a new thread IF I can get some answers here....
I am upgrading my sub amp to a much larger Wattage then currently running. I have an 8awg power wire and am going to run a 4awg power wire. Here's my question:
Can I just re-run the 4awg power wire only or to I have to now buy a new larger ground wire as well, (or basically a whole new 4awg kit with RCA's) or can I just run the power wire and use my current RCA's and ground wire?
Asking because my installer was quoting me 100 bucks for a 4awg kit, but if all I need is like 15ft of power wire-I know that doesn't cost $100- then their is something amiss.
Sorry for the newb question and drudging up this heated thread....was a good read for a few posts though.
Thanks


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## RBeachTL (Jul 21, 2008)

Have to? That depends on a couple of factors. Remember your power and ground wires make a circuit and current flow is conserved; meaning the current flow from the power side will equal the current flow on the ground side. That being said, one of the main reasons for larger gage power cable is to minimize the voltage drop at your amp over a possibly long cable run. I'm guessing that your ground wire is significantly shorter; so you may not need a larger gage cable to prevent voltage drop over the ground cable. It is important to minimize ground potential differences to prevent unintended gound loops and noise.

Commonly you will see advice to have the same size ground cable as power cable; while this is safe, it isn't always necessary.


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## HertzGuy (Jan 23, 2010)

So perhaps I buy a new power and ground wire but do I need a whole new "Kit"??


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

if you are going to buy some 4g for power then buy the extra few feet (or however much you need) for the ground as well. you don't need to upgrade your rca cables or anything else. $100 is a ripoff.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Water Analogy

pressure = force in volts
gallons per minute [ flow rate ] = current in amperes
resistance is equal to the size of the conductor [ wire ]

Watt:
The watt is the unit of measure of power (whether it is power being used OR produced). One watt of power is dissipated in the form of heat when one amp of current is forced through a one ohm resistor.


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## HertzGuy (Jan 23, 2010)

Thank you nineball, that is exactly what I was thinking...RIPOFF. 
The more I deal with this guy lately the shadier it seems he becomes.
I am getting a little frustrated/skeptical about this guy.......


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## tanakasan (Sep 8, 2007)

Upgrade the wires, go for the foot/few feet of equal size ground wire.

Hopefully your fuse holder (s) will accomodate the larger wire. And be sure to use appropriate fuses for the new size wire.

Robert


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