# 1966 Suicide Lincoln Continental



## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

OK posted this in wrong spot at first so here it goes written in WWW history for a second time! I have a 66 Lincoln Continental that I Have Been Working On Now 4 years and slowly building a sterio for 6 months and run I out of room in my apartment. I started with a Kenwood Excelon Dnx9990hd head unit in custom console with buckets, Infinity Cappa four 125 x4 and 150 x4 four ohm I plan to power Precision. Power P65C3 components 6.5 in bottom front door in pod firing at ears, chrome motercycle speaker pods ear level on stainless A pillars and the 2.5 ribbon tweets in 2.5" tweeter pods on dash, with 4 Pioneer 5 ways 2 free air 2 in boxes mounted underneath the rear deck. Kicker KX 800 mono amp powering 12" Kicker L7 mounted in sealed box in trunk. NVX sound damping on inside of all sheet metal with 1/8" closed cell foam and layer of 1/4" Mute X sound profile made for recording studio's. Monster Cable 402 speaker wire and Monster sub wire. Big 3 upgrade, 0 gauge dual amp wiring kit. And last but not least I plan on keeping all this with a 2 way remote start alarm! Am I missing anything? What more should I do?


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Hello the question at hand isn't what more should you do, it's more so what are you trying to do ? It seems that you have a great start and have covered several bases. So if you just feel the need to add, that I can understand. Also sharing photos of this car on my end would be greatly appreciated.


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## underdog (Jul 5, 2011)

"What more should I do?"
Post a few pictures of your ride and it's additions


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## moreSPL (Aug 27, 2014)

5 ways???? never heard of such a thing. Pictures of this rig would be awesome if you have any.


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## vwdave (Jun 12, 2013)

To be completely honest you seem to be all over the place in terms of quality items.

Kicker L7 is kind of lower to middle of the road, ribbon tweeters are on the higher end/advanced side, and then "pioneer 5 way" 6x9s I assume are back at lower end/entry level.

I would suggest listing your goals and budget and have a few of the experts here make some suggestions. Plus pictures of the car and progress always help.


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## etroze (Dec 24, 2013)

We did a small budget build in a 63 conti and trust me ditch the rears as with those PPI 3way set and 200w you won't need any rear fill. Oh deaden the crap out of those doors they will resonate like no one's business, that mid bass driver will love you for it.


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## DBlevel (Oct 6, 2006)

I would say pics are a must of the 66 Lincoln..........


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

I'd put kick panels in and not ruin a classic car's door card ... unless the whole thing will be custom.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah I know the Kicker sub and Pioneer 6x9s are not top end they where bought when I first started buying sterio equipment. I even had drank Lanzar's cool aid and bought their 6500 watt 5 chanel amp and thought it really had 250 watts x 4 and 1200 mono to power my whole system but I have learned a bit more about amps now thinking about selling the 6x9s and getting some Focal 7x10"s but Pioneers are rated at 35 to 37,000 hertz with 100 watts rms 600 max I was going to put them in the front doors and rear deck now 4 in rear deck but up for anything what sub would you recommend I thought 12" Kicker L7 in sealed box was good for tight punchy bass for the classic rock and modern rock I mostly listen to with some old school rap some times. Here is the speaker pods I have been working on I bought some chrome motercycle handle bar pods with some cheep as 15 watt speakers in them to put my 3" Precision Power mids and some 6.5 pods but they are not deep enjoy so since one slides over the other I have made one pod out of two the 6.5 will hit mutch better now that they will be in sealed clam shells Just noticed my phone was upside-down Lol


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

And the Pioneer 5 ways. I guess what I want to achieve is the best sounding sterio I can have when I was a teenager I used to think a sterio was good if you could hear the bass 4 blocks away and loud as hell but now my taste are more refined bordering audiophile at home I have 7.1 surround with all Bose speakers 901's, front and rear center channels and surounds a 10",12",and 15" Pre powered subs it's loud but it is crystal clear and I hear things i have never heard before in music I have been listening to all my life. I want my car sterio to be better than that because i can't control all the buzzes and rattling that my home produces like i can in my car I want the best sterio I can have with out spending a fortune.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Also thinking about adding a Stinger 2400 battery for the amps. I know some have said that i don't need rear speakers at all with the Precision Power P65C3 components but the 66 Lincoln is a huge car and thought since I had 4 Pioneer 6x9s 5 ways already and 4 channel Infinity Cappa 4 capable of 150 watts per channel at 2 ohms I could run 2 6x9s per channel in rear deck and they go do down to around 35 hertz could be used as mid bass. It doesn't hurt they can go up to 37,000 hertz and everything in between for full stage not bad for Pioneer speakers


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## RocketBoots (Apr 16, 2011)

Pics of the car would be cool...


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

I'm not generally a Ford fan, but that was definitely one of the coolest cars made.

In for some pics of the car.

Also, maybe list out some goals you wish to achieve. What are the boundaries you're not willing to surpass on the install?

Josh


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Here the picks this is what it looked like before rims and lowering and bodywork. I will try to find some current pics


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I need to take more pics next time I go to the mechanics


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## gckless (Oct 11, 2012)

Gimme your car right now! Gimme!

Check out the car from Hit and Run (2012).


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

OK, sell everything but the PPI components and the deck. Its a big car and for people in the rear to enjoy the music I would do a simple two way component of your favorite flavor in the rear but be able to shut it down when there are only people in the front.
There are a million and one subs that are better than the L7s. Again its down to your flavor. Dayton 12HOs will thump and are cheapish. Illusion C12XL will rattle your skull but you have to be ready to wait and to pay. SI BM MKIV may allow for some kind of cabin enclosure and it is one amazing sub. Then there are the Ultimos..... this can go on and on.

As for amps, get the best you can afford. Set a budget and try to fit the amps within that budget. Little hint, good amps will run you a grand at minimum unless you buy used. You can actually score a JL 450/4 and 1000/1 on here for under $800. Of course to get the most from those PPI components you may want two of the 450/4. 2 channels for the 6.5, two for the mids, two for the tweeters and two for the rear.

Also add a processor like a Mosconi or similar. DSP in a car that size will make a world of difference.

Last but certainly not least, sound deaden the doors as they really really vibrate.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

LeVeL said:


> I need to take more pics next time I go to the mechanics


Is it wrong that I like the steel wheels better on that car? 

Those KMC XDs are truck wheels.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Wide whites and Lincoln hubcaps FTMFW!!


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

Now that's a luxo barge there. I'll bet that thing is awesome on the open road!


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I know this is a sterio forum but i must defend my rim and tire choice. First of all i know that they are "Truck Rims" i looked at thousands of rims for 2 years before i got what i wanted i am going for a very sinister look and car rims are all flash and chrome. Second stock hubcaps and wide whites have been done since the car came out and 20's 24's 26's and rubber band tires all look the same after awhile. Third the 18"rims i picked out match the strong powerful lines of my car and when it's painted simi gloss black with gloss black flames that run the whole length down the side with a white vinyl top the 18" rims and 2 1/2" gangster whitewalls will look perfect and match the black and white interior. So quit hating.


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## LaserSVT (Feb 1, 2009)

Not hating. Never said they are crappy or anything similar. I just prefer a different style. I have built a crap ton of Lincolns and have a different style for the old iron. Again, not against your wheels at all I just have a preference.


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

*STEREO


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

vwdave said:


> To be completely honest you seem to be all over the place in terms of quality items.
> 
> Kicker L7 is kind of lower to middle of the road, ribbon tweeters are on the higher end/advanced side, and then "pioneer 5 way" 6x9s I assume are back at lower end/entry level.
> 
> I would suggest listing your goals and budget and have a few of the experts here make some suggestions. Plus pictures of the car and progress always help.





LaserSVT said:


> OK, sell everything but the PPI components and the deck. Its a big car and for people in the rear to enjoy the music I would do a simple two way component of your favorite flavor in the rear but be able to shut it down when there are only people in the front.
> There are a million and one subs that are better than the L7s. Again its down to your flavor. Dayton 12HOs will thump and are cheapish. Illusion C12XL will rattle your skull but you have to be ready to wait and to pay. SI BM MKIV may allow for some kind of cabin enclosure and it is one amazing sub. Then there are the Ultimos..... this can go on and on.
> 
> As for amps, get the best you can afford. Set a budget and try to fit the amps within that budget. Little hint, good amps will run you a grand at minimum unless you buy used. You can actually score a JL 450/4 and 1000/1 on here for under $800. Of course to get the most from those PPI components you may want two of the 450/4. 2 channels for the 6.5, two for the mids, two for the tweeters and two for the rear.
> ...


Good advice!


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Well sell everything but deck and Precision Power P65C3 3's wow I thought the Amps I chose where quality they both have awesome ratings and reviews. Should i buy high quality 6x9 components like Morel or Focal because i would like some mid bass and some sound in rear deck or another 6.5 two way component. I found out the factory rear deck speakers are 4x10's and can't mount speakers flush because of the the trunk lid torsion bar runs under the rear deck but they do make some nice looking speaker pods that will work. I have found the subwoofer I should have bought in the first place a single SSA ICON 12 " 1 ohm dvc 1250 wwatts rms that has awesome SQ and can still hit low aand bass across the lower audible frequency range whith tight responsive bass my Kicker KX 800 watt mono amp was rated at 944 watts rms at 2 ohms should be fine rite?. I definitely have the sound damping area covered I am lining the roof, trunk, floor, inside skin and frame of all four doors lined the door cards with 1/8th " closed cell foam and 1/4th " Mute X sound proofing that will also line the whole car and sprayed rubberized under coating over the factory undercoat in the wheel wells and fire wall. So no rattles or road noise will compete with the sterio.


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## e=mc2 (Dec 4, 2013)

lol

you're better off putting a stereo on that lawn mower than in that car

Kidding. I'm in for pics of the rims on the car. And drop that thing & give it a black paint job!

Not sure how far you are up in Iowa, but I have my MS-8 processor for sale. I'm in the Mankato area so I'm like an hour half away from Iowa.

Good luck


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

LeVeL said:


> I definitely have the sound damping area covered I am lining the roof, trunk, floor, inside skin and frame of all four doors lined the door cards with 1/8th " closed cell foam and 1/4th " Mute X sound proofing that will also line the whole car and sprayed rubberized under coating over the factory undercoat in the wheel wells and fire wall. So no rattles or road noise will compete with the sterio.


The Mute X looks comparable to typical MLV. This is good. The material is designed to reduce sound transmission from one side of the material to the other. This is great for road noise. The CCF might be overkill. CCF is typically used between two materials to keep them from rattling. You actually won't be accomplishing much just laying it under the foam. Rubberized undercoating under the car is also good. If for nothing else, to protect you from rust. (I lived in IA for a year, I know how quickly cars rust there.) 

You will probably want to look into a quality CLD product. This will help reduce vibration and resonance in panels. Sound Deadener Showdown is your best bet, if it is in your budget. The SDS site also has great information on how to most effectively install all of your deadening materials. If SDS is too expensive, pick up some Knu Konceptz Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition. This is about the best bang for the buck going right now.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah I forgot to mention what i lined the inside and frame of the doors, floor, roof, firewall and trunk sheet metal with. NVX it tested better than all of the top brands the closed cell foam between the NVX and Mute X is to decouple them and adsorpt vibration. Highly recommend from the SD website. Mute X is way better than Mass loaded vinyl and is more like dense black carpet with hard plastic backing hence the closed cell foam I also forgot the extra layer of heat barrier for the firewall and front floor pans.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Can I ask where you saw that NVX "tested better than all of the top brands?" I would certainly be interested in looking at the testing. 

Mute X looks like it could be a good alternative to MLV. The fact that it is only 1/4 lbs per foot is nice, but it is thicker than typical MLV. The weight does concern me a bit. Getting all of the data and accurate information to compare this type of product can be a bit tough. Some products provide STL (Sound Transmission Loss) data using strictly their product, others provide the infomation with the product installed in a typical wall assembly. STC (Sound Transmission Coefficient) ratings aren't even reliable, unless you have a consistent ASTM test between products to know that they were tested in the same fashion. And of course, that information isn't always available. 

If you've already got the products though, I say go for it. Just offering up some alternatives based on the information myself and other researched and/or tested.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Just a note, nvx doesnt test nearly as well as sds tiles or knukonceptz kolossus. Ill have to get home to check, but I remember it testing average, about as good as dynamat xtreme and second skin damplifier pro.

This is based on my own objective controlled testing with a calibrated measurement mic, test rig, and rta.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Just a note, nvx doesnt test nearly as well as sds tiles or knukonceptz kolossus. Ill have to get home to check, but I remember it testing average, about as good as dynamat xtreme and second skin damplifier pro.
> 
> This is based on my own objective controlled testing with a calibrated measurement mic, test rig, and rta.


I was wondering if you were going to find your way in here.  I couldn't even recall if you had tested the NVX or not.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Yeah, been absent for a while, things still going on around here. I wanted to look at this a couple days ago, but was staying away from email/computer to avoid stress.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

On Sonix Electronics they state it is 30% thicker and since they are all made butyle rubber with a layer of aluminum and work by basically adding weight to the sheet metal so it doesn't vibrate or create sound the extra thickness means there's 30% more material not 30% better but the extra 3 mills of butyle is doing more damping by definition. What is the best sheet metal lining you have tested and have you used combinations of deferent materials like closed cell foam or Mute X?


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## sqguy (Oct 19, 2005)

Your car in my opinion is a perfect canidate for some full body horns and a nice 8~10inch midbass


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Ill respond fully when I get home from work tomorrow, family function today. Sds is the best performing thing I've tests that I can recommend, it reduced the resonant frequency of my test panel by nearly 15db, vs 10db for the nvx.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

So thinking about where to mount my Precision Power P65C3 3 way components the 6.5s mounted in sealed pods should they he in bottom front of the door or kick panels? I plan on mounting the 3" mids ear level in chrome motercycle pods to match the stainless steel front pillars. What about the 1.75" ribbon tweets can I mount them on the dash or should they be ear level also thinking of mounting them in chrome spray paint lids to match the mid pods. Also should i buy another set of Precision Power P65C3 3 way components for the rear deck or use the 4 Pioneer 6x9 five ways I already have run parallel 2 on each chanel to drop down to 2 ohms they are 100 watts rms and my Infinity kappa 4 amp is 125 watts x 4 at 4 ohms and 150 x4 at 2 so instead of over powering them they each would get 75 watts. For Pioneer they have awesome 32 herts to 37,000. I have no problem reselling them on ebay to get something better. What ever I decided they will have to be mounted in pods because they're is only enough room for the 4x10" factory speakers in the rear deck because of the torsion bar for the trunk lid runs under the rear deck


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah so the more I learn about building a high quality car stereo system the more I realize how much I don't know. I have used up the 40 square foot of NVX sound damping I had and only got one door and 1/4 of the trunk. I knew it was not enuff to do the whole car but thought I'd get a little further and know how mutch more I needed to buy. But just like everything I thought I knew I don't and looking to get something better to sound proof my car with. So on the SDS site he recommends only covering 1/3 of the sheet metal with CDL tiles but all other CDL tiles cover 100 percent so what is correct and buy double layer CDL tiles do you get twice the dampening . If I need 100 percent coverage I will need around 240 square feet more to finish sound dampening!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

I believe the CLD + CCF + MLV appropriately installed will trump double layers of CLD any day. And that "appropriately installed" includes using only 25-50% coverage with CLD. And no, doubling your CLD will not double the damping.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Only do between 30 and 50% coverage in the doors... or less. These cars are made of a much thicker grade steel than modern cars. Wack on my Lincoln door and I hear zero issues when it comes to resonance. Wack on my truck's door - like a drum comparatively.

Don't go nuts with the deadening... bang around with your fist. If it sounds hollow or rattles, give it some CLD treatment or maybe some foam is better to decouple whatever its ratting against. You don't need to cover the whole thing at all.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

If you go to my sound deadening test in thread, you'll see the results of 25% coverage vs 100% coverage. Basically, 25% reduced the resonant peak by around 13db. That means the panel would be moving 94% less than before. With 100% coverage, the resonant peak was reduced by about 21db. That means the panel would be moving 99% less than before. Neither method reduced wideband sound well, just reduced sound where the panel was resonating. So you can pay for 25% coverage and get good results, or pay 4x as much for just barely better results. And dont double layer cld. Cld dampens what it is attached to. So your second layer would be damping your first layer of cld.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

What about spray sound dampening for the really hard to reach spots? What kind works best for those spots?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Spray damping is really the only option for areas you cant reach by hand. That said, anywhere you can reach I would stick to cld.

Keep in mind, youll never keep the panels from flexing with damping alone. The goal is just to attenuate it enough not to hear it.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Just some pics of my 66. Lincoln Continental I promised


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

As you can see the rear deck is very shallow and to make things worse the trunk lid torsion bar runs under it allowing factory 4x10" rear speakers. So i can't mount any speakers flush without hitting the torsion bar and can't mount any speakers in pods because the deck is only 7.5"s deep. Can i mount a pair of 6.5" or 6x9 " mid bass subs free air with the magnet facing up like you can with subwoofers? That is the only way to mount anything in the rear deck.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Your rear deck is telling you to quit trying to mount speakers in it. 

Get the front 3-way installed along with the subwoofers and "live with it" for a few days before deciding you need to add the rear speakers. And yes, sit in the back seat and listen to see if it will be loud enough for your passengers.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

What about MY PRECISION POWER P65C3 3 tweets where should they be mounted i am mounting the mids ear level in chrome motercycle handle bar pods should my tweets be mounted higher or lower on the dashboard?


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## e=mc2 (Dec 4, 2013)

I'd mount the mid woofers in the engine bay, midranges in the trunk, and tweeters underneath the front seats -only hook the left one up though.

Kidding. This question gets brought up ALL the time. We don't have an answer for you because there isn't one. Place them wherever they sound the best to you.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

So i have been looking for some rear middbass speakers for my Lincoln and have come across CDT so i called them and they recommend there HD M6 6.7"s. My rear deck is only 7.5"s deep and has the torsion bar for the trunk lid directly under it so they can not be flush mounted but they said they can be mounted upside-down on the deck but also said they would sound better in a sealed box .3 to .5 cubic foot. What would you do?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

LeVeL said:


> What would you do?


This might sound a bit familiar...


rton20s said:


> Your rear deck is telling you to quit trying to mount speakers in it.
> 
> Get the front 3-way installed along with the subwoofers and "live with it" for a few days before deciding you need to add the rear speakers. And yes, sit in the back seat and listen to see if it will be loud enough for your passengers.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I have a 4 channel amp and want to use all 4 of them and also want some tight mid bass to go along with my sub i was told not to use components or coaxials in the rear because it wouldn't sound right. IS this true?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Bridge the channels for the front speakers. You won't get rear midbass speakers to sound right without time alignment.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

You're over thinking this. Bridge your 4 channel amp to two channels and provide more power/headroom to your PPI 3-way components up front. 

Get that installed and working and do some critical listening. Listen from the driver's seat and then listen from the back seat. If you truly feel like something is missing from one seating position to the other (or in both), then look at  your options for rear speakers. 

Also, if you do run rears, there is really no reason that it should be only midbass. Yes, midbass is slightly tougher for your to "locate," but that all depends on the passband of the frequencies you are supplying to them.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL said:


> Bridge the channels for the front speakers. You won't get rear midbass speakers to sound right without time alignment.


Go ahead. Steal my thunder. 

LeVeL, at least you know I'm not blowing smoke.


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## sirbOOm (Jan 24, 2013)

Do not put those in the car. That's what I'd do. Coaxial or nothing.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

rton20s said:


> Your rear deck is telling you to quit trying to mount speakers in it.
> 
> Get the front 3-way installed along with the subwoofers and "live with it" for a few days before deciding you need to add the rear speakers. And yes, sit in the back seat and listen to see if it will be loud enough for your passengers.


Isn't that the same car from the Entourage intro? Beautiful. I think the wheels look fine, although the stock hubs would probably look better if refinished.


I agree that you probably won't need rear speakers of you provide a full 200 watts to your component set. If you need to add rear speakers for your passengers a coaxial or component set in the rear doors will probably be fine. You won't have to provide them with much wattage either. 


As far as subwoofers, the L7 isn't all that great. I have a single L5 and it's just mediocre. It can get very loud, but it's not very musical. 

A couple of infinite Baffle mounted ID Max subs would be an inexpensive and potent option.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

The problem is if I bridge the Infinity kappa 4 to 2 channels it will be 300 watts X2 ! What is the Maxx RMS for my Precision Power P65C3 3 ways and what if I ran a center channel from CDT rated at 150 watts RMS would the 300 watts be better used?


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

LeVeL said:


> The problem is if I bridge the Infinity kappa 4 to 2 channels it will be 300 watts X2 ! What is the Maxx RMS for my Precision Power P65C3 3 ways and what if I ran a center channel from CDT rated at 150 watts RMS would the 300 watts be better used?


Just try to keep it simple to start. I'm not sure what the rms recommendation is for that set, but it may be on the box, and is definitely in the manual. I thought someone had mentioned 200 watts earlier, but idk for sure. 

Can they be bi amped, i.e. run the midbass separately?


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Don't run a center channel without processing. Same thing with the rears. Bridge the the channels to the fronts, whether they get damaged or not is all in your ability to control the volume.


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Dude. Seriously. You continue to try to make this more complicated than it is. Run the PPI 3 way components up front off of the Kappa 4 bridged. Be reasonable with the gain and the volume knob and you'll be set. If you're really worried, find someone local with an o-scope to help you set your gains. 

Then throw whichever size SSA Icon in your trunk and enjoy. You don't need all of the additional speakers. You'll have more then enough output for you and all of your passengers with that setup.


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

And it will sound much much much better than putting speakers all over without a proper way to set them up.


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

This thread is bringing the lulz.

As others have mentioned, bridge the Kappa amp for the components, set your gains properly or have a shop do it. I believe you mentioned mounting the tweeters in a chrome spray paint cap, for the love of God and everything holy, please do not do this. I guarantee you that this will not look as good as you're imagining in your head. Do yourself a favor, save your money and have a shop fab up some custom dash pads or fab some a-pillar pods for you. Your Continental is a classy car and mounting tweeters and mids in spray paint lids and motorcycle pods is not a good look. Do not install your tweeters and mids at ear level in your pillars either. High range sounds are very directional and having high's this high up will overpower nearly all other frequencies in the car. Look at other install threads on this forum, I guarantee that you wont see anyone installing tweeters up high in their pillars. Lastly, if you insist on having rear fill just get a decent pair of 6.5 coaxial speakers in the rear deck. Don't ruin the car by trying to stuff 4 6x9's back there.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

I must have skimmed over the parts regarding speakers in spray paint cans. Wow!


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## e=mc2 (Dec 4, 2013)

rofl!!


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

I know this is a repost but I just have to do it. 

Pay special attention to the tweeter pods, and subwoofer box. 


http://youtu.be/AKH23bamIKU 

All joking aside. You've got some decent amps, and a pretty good component set. The main thing at this point is making sure it's all installed correctly. The idea of having a professional fab up some speaker pods is a very good idea. If your looking for something more stealth, them maybe see about having some kick panel pods made. I


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I understand i am considered a nob but i am not a complete idiot i bought some junk **** before doing research but quickly learned and resold it to another nob that didn't care or understand yet. I've learned if I want a SQ sound system i need to research and spend loot on quality equipment. I don't know if you have seen the pics of the chrome motercycle speaker pods but they match the interior of my Lincoln and they are sealed for my mids I can mount them anywhere on the A pillars so I will mount them lower maybe dash level and same with the tweets I can mount them on the dash in black pods to match. I admit this is my first high fedelity stereo system and the last thing I want to do is install it incorrectly or make it look tacky. I have bought the best stuff I can afford I now have the 2014 Kenwood Excelon DNX 891HD model it sounds like they have worked all the bugs out now and I know Infinity isn't known for their amps but it has awesome properties and the Precision Power P65C3 3 ways sound like they are a awesome set for the money in the bass department I have sold the Kicker L7 12" and am ready to purchase a SSA ICON 15" or 12" and am keeping my Kicker KX 800 watt mono amp certified at 944 watts rms. I switched up my sound damping to Kno Knoise Kollosis and lined the wheel wells, under body, fire wall and all deep areas with 4 coats of under body spray and still using the 1/8 closed cell foam and Mute X sound proofing to line the interior panels to cut down road noise and vibration. Oh yeah the Pioneer 6x9 5 ways are long gone too. I have learned a lot from this site after cutting through all the sarcasm and my car thanks you.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

LeVeL said:


> I understand i am considered a nob but i am not a complete idiot i bought some junk **** before doing research but quickly learned and resold it to another nob that didn't care or understand yet. I've learned if I want a SQ sound system i need to research and spend loot on quality equipment. I don't know if you have seen the pics of the chrome motercycle speaker pods but they match the interior of my Lincoln and they are sealed for my mids I can mount them anywhere on the A pillars so I will mount them lower maybe dash level and same with the tweets I can mount them on the dash in black pods to match. I admit this is my first high fedelity stereo system and the last thing I want to do is install it incorrectly or make it look tacky. I have bought the best stuff I can afford I now have the 2014 Kenwood Excelon DNX 891HD model it sounds like they have worked all the bugs out now and I know Infinity isn't known for their amps but it has awesome properties and the Precision Power P65C3 3 ways sound like they are a awesome set for the money in the bass department I have sold the Kicker L7 12" and am ready to purchase a SSA ICON 15" or 12" and am keeping my Kicker KX 800 watt mono amp certified at 944 watts rms. I switched up my sound damping to Kno Knoise Kollosis and lined the wheel wells, under body, fire wall and all deep areas with 4 coats of under body spray and still using the 1/8 closed cell foam and Mute X sound proofing to line the interior panels to cut down road noise and vibration. Oh yeah the Pioneer 6x9 5 ways are long gone too. I have learned a lot from this site after cutting through all the sarcasm and my car thanks you.


I don't think anyone meant you any ill will. We've all been where you are before. The main thing we ask is just be willing to take direction. If one person tells you something you should do, take it with a grain of salt, but if all of us tell you something it's probably really good advice. 

I just wish I'd had a resource like this site when I was young. Back then we had nothing but trade mags to study and get info from. That and picking the guy's brains at the local install shopn 

You are getting a crash course in SQ 101. 

As far as the moto speaker pods, aside from the looks they most likely aren't going to compliment the sound of your mids. Those are designed for cheap speakers where enclosure is not much of a worry. 

If you don't want to have a shop build pods, then by all means fabricate some from mdf, and fibreglass. It's not exactly easy, but it's doable and there's lots of how to's on here regarding it.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

Oh yeah, the term is NOOB not nob


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## slowsedan01 (May 4, 2008)

LeVeL said:


> I understand i am considered a nob but i am not a complete idiot i bought some junk **** before doing research but quickly learned and resold it to another nob that didn't care or understand yet. I've learned if I want a SQ sound system i need to research and spend loot on quality equipment. I don't know if you have seen the pics of the chrome motercycle speaker pods but they match the interior of my Lincoln and they are sealed for my mids I can mount them anywhere on the A pillars so I will mount them lower maybe dash level and same with the tweets I can mount them on the dash in black pods to match. I admit this is my first high fedelity stereo system and the last thing I want to do is install it incorrectly or make it look tacky. I have bought the best stuff I can afford I now have the 2014 Kenwood Excelon DNX 891HD model it sounds like they have worked all the bugs out now and I know Infinity isn't known for their amps but it has awesome properties and the Precision Power P65C3 3 ways sound like they are a awesome set for the money in the bass department I have sold the Kicker L7 12" and am ready to purchase a SSA ICON 15" or 12" and am keeping my Kicker KX 800 watt mono amp certified at 944 watts rms. I switched up my sound damping to Kno Knoise Kollosis and lined the wheel wells, under body, fire wall and all deep areas with 4 coats of under body spray and still using the 1/8 closed cell foam and Mute X sound proofing to line the interior panels to cut down road noise and vibration. Oh yeah the Pioneer 6x9 5 ways are long gone too. I have learned a lot from this site after cutting through all the sarcasm and my car thanks you.


Agree with the other poster, nobody is wishing any ill will upon your project. You've got a really cool car in the Conti, I love the old Ford land yachts. Personally the '79 Town Car or Town Coupe is something I'd love to own one day and do a completely bonkers, yet conservative install. 

So many times on this forum guys come in from other backgrounds in car audio and ask for feedback and when constructive criticism is given the original poster gets offended or doesn't take the advice they were asking for. You've proven that you're willing to learn and take the advice, so your well on your way. Again, echoing another poster, I wish I had access to a community like this when I was learning. We all have to start somewhere, you're asking good questions and seems like you're listening to the advice being given to you.

All this being said, the biggest part of your install that I really think you need to consider changing now that you ditched the 6x9 idea in the deck is the motorcycle pods. I get that they are chrome and will match the other chrome trim inside the car. In an old car like your Conti, you probably have a relatively flat floor and flat dash with a bench seat which is perfect for a kick panel midbass install. Either experiment yourself with building kick panels or have a shop do it. That way you're not cutting up the original door cards. Then for your mid and tweeter, again experiment with creating a-pillar pods, dash pods, or have a shop do the work. Note: there's plenty of threads on this forum and others about DIY instructions for fiberglass pods. Finding a true SQ oriented shop these days can be difficult, since so many just care about pushing a radio or a prefab 12" box w/ a 500W amp, but SQ shops still do exist. Go talk with an installer, tell him what you're looking to achieve and what equipment you have. They will probably have some of their own recommendations. Now go forth young grasshopper, ask, learn, explore, listen, and have fun with this hobby!


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

The reason I am still set on the chrome motercycle speaker pods is I don't have any where else to mount the 3" mids I can't mount them in the doors because i have already mounted the 6.5"s at the bottom corner of the front doors in pods with about .543 cubic feet. I don't want to cut my door just to mount mids or tweets besides the chrome pod is .142 cubic feet they recommend .15cf and sound night and day mounted in or out of the pods. I realize everyone is just trying to help and some find it down rite amusing that i am mounting my mids in chrome pods designed for a motercycle to the A pillars but with lack of any factory speaker mounts it leaves it wide open and I know it might not look cool or even good in a newer car but my car is not made of plastic and looks awesome mounted lower next to dash "not ear level". But I still don't know exactly where to mount the tweets I have built some pods for them out of some old pill bottles I had lying around and after cutting both ends off the bottles I removed the threaded ring and wrapped some duct tape around the outside of the tweeters once and that made them slide into the "bottle" snugly now I will likely ether cut about a 1 1/2" off the bottom and cut it at a angle to mount cleanly on the dash or next time I go out to my Lincoln I will cut the shape of the A pillars in to the bottle and paint it simi gloss to match the ribbon tweeters front covers.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

Please look through the pics of how the speaker pods were built in this thread. Please don't use pill bottles to mount your tweeters. There's really no easy way to do this right. However if you put the time into it, the finished product will look and sound incredible. Your midbasses in the lower doors should be fine, just consider building some pods for your mids and tweets. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ollaboration-zapco-hat-mosconi-jl-alpine.html


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I have read about the placement of components from Crutchfeild and CDT and they suggested mounting the mids and tweeters close together and ear level for optimal sound quality. Also i know everyone thinks that mounting my mids in motercycle speaker pods is a joke but i calculated the displacement of the pods at .017 cubic feet witch the suggested volume was .016. Besides they will sound way better than being mounted free air in a door or the dash like most people are forced to. I know this for a fact because i have taken my Bose 2.5 speakers mounted in sealed pods apart to see what they would sound like and they lost all of there balls and sounded shallow and weak. Put them back together and all of the life comes back. Also the tweeters that i have mounted in pill bottles instead of a pvc tube fit securely and flush and will be easier to shape them to match the contour of the A pillars with my hot knife and only 3/4" tall when finished will be painted simigloss to match the tweeters. When I am finished mounting the tweeters and mids they might not be mounted in a custom fiberglass pods witch in opinion would look terrible mounted to the stainless A pillars. Because my car came with a single 4x10" in the dash and unlike a newer car forced to use poorly placed factory speaker locations I have free range to mount my components with the best sound quality posable. SQ being the priority and cosmetics second while still looking clean as posable. I will be able to aim my mids and tweeters be on axis and sound the best before i mount them for good. I know it is a unconventional installation but sometimes you have to think ooutside the box in the name of high fedelity audiophile sound quality.


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## e=mc2 (Dec 4, 2013)

meh.


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## JoshHefnerX (Jun 13, 2008)

Every car is different and what works for some may not work for others. This forum is about experimentation, so thinking outside the box is great and end the end it's your car. 
There's a lot of good advice here and there's a lot of years of experience in the build forum on here. The more time you spend on there you may get more and better/different ideas about how to go about things. 
Be sure to enjoy yourself. This is all about fun in the end.

Josh


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

There's a SSA ICON 15" Subwoofer in the Classifieds here. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/168820-fs-subwoofers-subwoofers-subwoofers-all-bnib.html

Great car. Just use the 4"x10" openings in the rear deck to let bass from the subwoofer into the cabin.  If you have any decent subwoofer in the trunk, it would just overpressurize the cones of any speakers that you mounted free-air in the rear deck anyway, and cause them to distort/sound like @ss. Make sure to sound deaden that rear deck and do something to keep the trunk lid torsion bars from rattling.

Follow other member's advice to just get your front 3-way setup installed and bridge the amp as recommended. In that car, I would probably opt for low-profile custom kickpanel enclosures for your mids and tweeters, or maybe mount the tweeters in low-profile customized A-Pillars. I understand that it's hard to decide as there are just so many options for mounting locations in that car.

Glad you seem to be on the right track with the sound deadening. Have fun.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

If I want to run my Precision Power P65C3 3 ways "active" with the 6.5 requiring 150 watts rms the 3" mid 50 watts rms and the .75" ribbon tweeter at 25 watts rms should i use my existing amp to power the rear 6x9 midbass with 125 watts and the front 6.5" with 125 watts and purchase another amp rated at 50 watts rms x4 to run the mids and tweets separate? Also am I right to think that even if the ribbon tweeters are capable of ear splitting 40,000 hz the amplifier needs to provide at least that high amount of hz to got the full capacity from my tweets? And if i want to use my components active do i use my Kenwood Excelon DNX 891HD or the crossovers on the amp or do i need a digital processer?


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Also i plan on cutting a 5"x12" portal into the trunk through the rear seats armrest recess to allow the bass to pass through also so my 6x9s middbass don't sound like "a$$" but thanks for the warning.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

Still working the bugs out of the Lincoln and haven't got to the dream build system install yet. But still looking to run the Precision Power 3 ways with a Infinty Kappa four amp. If I run the front 2 channels "125 watts rms 4 ohms or 150watts rms 2 ohms" passive with the included PPI crossover powering the 3" mid and 1.75" tweeter and the 6.5" subs ran on rear 2 channels where do I set amps front and rear crossover switches Low Flat or High then what frequency 32hz through 320hz for front and rear?


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## Victor_inox (Apr 27, 2012)

DBlevel said:


> I would say pics are a must of the 66 Lincoln..........


THat is what I was expecting clicking on the thread, damn!


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

LeVeL said:


> Still working the bugs out of the Lincoln and haven't got to the dream build system install yet. But still looking to run the Precision Power 3 ways with a Infinty Kappa four amp. If I run the front 2 channels "125 watts rms 4 ohms or 150watts rms 2 ohms" passive with the included PPI crossover powering the 3" mid and 1.75" tweeter and the 6.5" subs ran on rear 2 channels where do I set amps front and rear crossover switches Low Flat or High then what frequency 32hz through 320hz for front and rear?


I am not sure what head unit you are using, or what the passive crossover point is for the 2.5" midrange. If you want to run the setup this way I would low pass the midbass on the amp at whatever frequency gives you the best blend with the midrange. For the high pass, I would look at your head unit. Anywhere from ~60 Hz - ~120 Hz, again depending on what sounds best.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

LeVeL said:


> If I want to run my Precision Power P65C3 3 ways "active" with the 6.5 requiring 150 watts rms the 3" mid 50 watts rms and the .75" ribbon tweeter at 25 watts rms should i use my existing amp to power the rear 6x9 midbass with 125 watts and the front 6.5" with 125 watts and purchase another amp rated at 50 watts rms x4 to run the mids and tweets separate? Also am I right to think that even if the ribbon tweeters are capable of ear splitting 40,000 hz the amplifier needs to provide at least that high amount of hz to got the full capacity from my tweets? And if i want to use my components active do i use my Kenwood Excelon DNX 891HD or the crossovers on the amp or do i need a digital processer?


First of all, your tweeters will not be able to produce 40 khz. Even if they could the human ear cannot hear sounds above 16-18k IIRC. You will probably be better off using the passive crossovers that are included with the three way set. Instead of going active, spend your time and resources on proper baffles for the mids & midbasses. Also mounting the tweets in a location that creates somewhat equal path-lengths to the driver's ear will help your image if you don't have time alignment processing. You can then use the high pass Xover in either your head unit or amp to keep sub frequencies out of your component set. 

You could spend the time and effort to go active if you want, but if the speakers aren't baffled properly if will sound terrible however you choose to run it.


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

OK so a update on the Continental SQ build. I got rid of the Dnx990hd and have a new Kenwood Excelon Dnx981hd head unit now with both front and rear cameras installed. Precision Power P65C3 3 ways ran fully active for live concert sounding front stage. The 6.5s midbass are mounted in .5 cu sealed pods mounted to bottom of front doors, 3 " mids in the recommended .016cu sealed chrome motercycle pods mounted dashlevel to the almost matching stainless steel A pillars and the .75" AMT tweeters mounted directly above that fit perfectly in 1" tall cut downl pill bottles painted simigloss black the same idea as pvc tweeter pods but fit better and are easily cut to fit curve of A pillars. 6.5 CDT ES06+ midbass smounted inverted in rear deck because of fitment problems. And for the thump in the trunk I decided on a single SSA XCON 18 " sub mounted in a custom 4.5 cu sealed box that fits the recess in the floor of 
the trunk so the sub grill is flush with the rest of trunk floor amd very cool looking. Also i cut 6"x12" port in rear deck and behined rear seat center arm rest to let the 18" subwoofer breath because its sealed airtight. Powered by a Crescendo 2225 watt rms mono amp. The front and rear 6.5 midbass are powered with a 4 channel x125 watts rms Infinity Kappa amp.The front 3" mids and .75" AMT tweeters are powered with a Pioneer 60 watt rms X 4 channel amp. While everything is controlled by a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 DSP. And last but just as important for a audiofile level SQ system all sheet metal is completely lined with NVX sound damping, 4 coats of spray in ssound damping in all tight spots including both sides of the wheel wells, fire wall and floor, all layers are decoupled with 1/8" closed cell foam and a final layer of 1/4 of Mute X sound proofing often used in recording studio's and sound proof rooms that outperforms MLV. Monster Cable RCA's, Rockford Fosgate 12 gauge speaker wire and 0 gauge ground and power cable, 0 gauge big 3 upgrade, 220 amp altinatore, Optima red top startingbattery, and 5,000 amp XS deep cycle battery to power the amps in the trunk. And of course a alarm with keyless entry and remote start from up to 1 3/4 miles away so i can keep all of this stuff after i have let everyone in town hear what a asound like if quality components are used along with tons of research to build a SQ system and not a srear channel heavy distorted mess with blown factory speakers a clipping under powered sub that does nothing but rattle the trunk lid they dont know better thinking because it's loud that they are cool LoL. I wknow because that was what my first system sounded like back in 10th grade so i can't say i have _always known what or could afford a SQ system .Know that I have a high fedelity live recording duplicating music machine and realize that everything you thought sounded good is nothing but a muddled mess of misplaced frequencies and a mess of randomly unlined notes awkwardly hit your ears like a rusty knife . But don't worry i might let you sit shotgun and fill your ears with warm crisp perfict reproduction of vocal and musical instrumentation with total harmonic bliss all hitting ypur ears simutanualsly with levels of sound and never heard of before this very moment. Your welcome now go get your own lol.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

^Holy huge paragraph Batman!

No offense man, and i'm glad you like the end result, but why did you ask for our help? You didn't take anyones advice. 

But if you like it, and it sounds good to you, that's really all that matters. Cheers!


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

I want to thank everyone for the advice i have got a lot of good info along with people disagreeing with each other. I have learnd alot when i fist.started to build up sterio equipment it was all entry level beginners stuff that has all been sold off in favor of building a SQ system. Before joining the forum i had no idea that any of 5 his stuff was available. I am extremely happy with the outcome of my first SQ BUILD.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

Can we see pictures of the install and car now? I love old Lincolns.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

come on man! Post pictures


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## LeVeL (Aug 27, 2014)

First of all i have spent the last 4 years restoring modifying it. Every mechanical system has been rebuilt, modified, and upgraded to 2015 technology. It.had sat for over 20 years in a garage waiting for someone like me to dust her of and bring back to life. I have replaced all rotted rubber bushings with Teflon impregnated polyurethane bushings, Bilstine racing shocks, oversized front and rear sway bars, stiffer 2 1/2" lowered coil springs up front, stiffer 1" lowered rear leafsprings, upgrade steering and suspension components, oversized front 14" disk brakes and black lip with 10 machined straight spokes18"x9" KMC truck rims with 2 1/4" gangster whitewall Hankook performance tires.. So for a 47 year old 2 1/2 tons luxury car it drives, corner flat and stop like a modern sports car. I could go on for pages but put it this way everything from the 10,000 lumen hid headlights to the sequencing led tail lights has been massaged i mean everything. I could have done the bare minimum to get it running and had it painted but i had the rear quarter panels repaired and almost all of the body work done with plans to paint it simi gloss black with long flowing gloss black flames that run the entire length of the car down the sides and awwhite vinyl top to match the factory black and white tuxedo interior rims and tires. I installed black and white racing seats and full length center console to mount the Kenwood Excelon Dnx981hd head unit. I plan on buying a 12" V nose utility trailer and painting it to match with matching 15 " rims and tires sometime. Anyway i don't have any new pictures of the it so it's will have to do.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

Cool car! How about pics of the install?


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## rton20s (Feb 14, 2011)

Every time I read on of your posts LeVeL, it reminds me SO MUCH of the year I spent living in Iowa.


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

Pics of the install LeVeL. Come on man...


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

LeVeL said:


> First of all i have spent the last 4 years restoring modifying it. Every mechanical system has been rebuilt, modified, and upgraded to 2015 technology. It.had sat for over 20 years in a garage waiting for someone like me to dust her of and bring back to life. I have replaced all rotted rubber bushings with Teflon impregnated polyurethane bushings, Bilstine racing shocks, oversized front and rear sway bars, stiffer 2 1/2" lowered coil springs up front, stiffer 1" lowered rear leafsprings, upgrade steering and suspension components, oversized front 14" disk brakes and black lip with 10 machined straight spokes18"x9" KMC truck rims with 2 1/4" gangster whitewall Hankook performance tires.. So for a 47 year old 2 1/2 tons luxury car it drives, corner flat and stop like a modern sports car. I could go on for pages but put it this way everything from the 10,000 lumen hid headlights to the sequencing led tail lights has been massaged i mean everything. I could have done the bare minimum to get it running and had it painted but i had the rear quarter panels repaired and almost all of the body work done with plans to paint it simi gloss black with long flowing gloss black flames that run the entire length of the car down the sides and awwhite vinyl top to match the factory black and white tuxedo interior rims and tires. I installed black and white racing seats and full length center console to mount the Kenwood Excelon Dnx981hd head unit. I plan on buying a 12" V nose utility trailer and painting it to match with matching 15 " rims and tires sometime. Anyway i don't have any new pictures of the it so it's will have to do.


Come on man. Are you going to post pics of the install or not?


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## HardCoreDore (Apr 30, 2014)

What a jip...


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## Jimbeaux (Sep 10, 2019)

I joined this forum because I want to see the pictures of this Lincoln. Surely, OP will deliver...

Also; HELLO WORLD! 
Nice to be here, everyone.


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## customtronic (Jul 7, 2007)

Jimbeaux said:


> I joined this forum because I want to see the pictures of this Lincoln. Surely, OP will deliver...
> 
> Also; HELLO WORLD!
> Nice to be here, everyone.


No pics in 5 years! Good luck with that. lol

And "hello". Welcome to the forum.


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