# Wires keep pulling out of my amp



## tagaiz (Nov 26, 2011)

I've installed my amps but the wires just aren't very secure and whenever I move cables (things still aren't 100% done yet so I'm still doing cable management) they come out. The amps use the screw type connectors where you put the wire in and screw down on them to hold them in place. Even though I've soldered the ends of all the cables they still pull out. I'm using 10ga speaker wire and 4ga power wire. Are there any connectors that'd help them stay in better?


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## Horsemanwill (Jun 1, 2008)

Weidmueller Ferrules

google that try that


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## Sine Swept (Sep 3, 2010)

Have you tried without soldering the ends? When you try to compress the set screw into hardened solder the screw isn't biting in like it would to plain copper wire.

I can think of at least 8 connections in my own car using set screws without a glitch

and not one of them is soldered


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## dresselbrew (Oct 13, 2011)

I had the same problem recently. I think I didn't have the wire stripped back far enough and was just getting a bite on the tip of the wire. I would move on to the next set of wires and the first set would pull out. I was getting so pissed.


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## johnvroom (May 5, 2009)

wires cant jump out without help, the install is not safe and incomplete is not an excuse. the amp must be properly installed but so must be the wires.
This is the danger of DIY, if you dont do the install correctly you risk equipment and potentially even the car.
Loose the solder on the speaker and power wire to the amp, secure the wires so they cant move, secure the amp, fuse the power source for starters


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## starboy869 (Dec 16, 2006)

why solder the wire tips?


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## audiobaun (Jun 8, 2011)

I have used Spade terminals, and cut one side of them off with one spade , and it seemed to hold very well,and also used heat shrink also.Try that, and should work like a charm


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## tagaiz (Nov 26, 2011)

johnvroom said:


> wires cant jump out without help, the install is not safe and incomplete is not an excuse. the amp must be properly installed but so must be the wires.
> This is the danger of DIY, if you dont do the install correctly you risk equipment and potentially even the car.
> Loose the solder on the speaker and power wire to the amp, secure the wires so they cant move, secure the amp, fuse the power source for starters


They stay in fine when not being touched. It's only when I start moving wires around that they start pulling out. Don't jump down my throat when I said before that it's only a problem when I start moving stuff around. It's not a safety hazard, it's just inconvenient. And what makes you think I haven't secured my amps or fused them? Do you think I walk around with my head up my rear end all day?


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## tagaiz (Nov 26, 2011)

audiobaun said:


> I have used Spade terminals, and cut one side of them off with one spade , and it seemed to hold very well,and also used heat shrink also.Try that, and should work like a charm


Thanks for that idea. It sounds like that way may work best.


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## tagaiz (Nov 26, 2011)

Sine Swept said:


> Have you tried without soldering the ends? When you try to compress the set screw into hardened solder the screw isn't biting in like it would to plain copper wire.
> 
> I can think of at least 8 connections in my own car using set screws without a glitch
> 
> and not one of them is soldered


I actually have one amp with the speaker wires soldered and one amp with them plain copper and neither seem to hold very well. Like I said they stay in fine by themselves but when I start moving wires around to organize them things start pulling out and I don't like leaving them like that permanently.


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## johnvroom (May 5, 2009)

tagaiz said:


> They stay in fine when not being touched. It's only when I start moving wires around that they start pulling out. Don't jump down my throat when I said before that it's only a problem when I start moving stuff around. It's not a safety hazard, it's just inconvenient. And what makes you think I haven't secured my amps or fused them? Do you think I walk around with my head up my rear end all day?


...sorry I dont know you, your background or your capabilities but I understand what mistakes are. Everyone on this forum has made mistakes... dont take it personally I was concerned about you and your stuff. And have no idea where you keep your head all day... and try spade lugs or ring terminals on the wires

(edit to add "ring terminals")


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## perfecxionx (Sep 4, 2009)

tagaiz said:


> They stay in fine when not being touched. It's only when I start moving wires around that they start pulling out. Don't jump down my throat when I said before that it's only a problem when I start moving stuff around. It's not a safety hazard, it's just inconvenient. And what makes you think I haven't secured my amps or fused them? Do you think I walk around with my head up my rear end all day?


if you need to prevent them from moving you can get something like this. the type i use has small nails on both ends.

also, dont take his comment so personally, he didnt show any attempt to insult


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## Candisa (Sep 15, 2007)

I agree on the weidmuller ferrules. 
By soldering the tip of the wires, you make the wires stiff and don't have a proper contact-area in the connectors.
By using pieces of soft tube like those weidmuller ferrules, the strands of the cables are bundled (just like when you solder them), but the overall shape can adjust to the shape of the connectors on/in the amps so you have an optimal contact surface, and because the screw is making a dent in it, it won't come out that easily anymore.

Just keep in mind the ferrules won't adjust perfectly from the first time, unless you're using a lot of force fastening the connector-screw --> doing this will probably break the connector or the screw-thread. 
To solve this issue, you'll have to fasten the connector-screws tight, but not with extraordinary force, and tension them after a few days, after a week, after a month... untill the ferrules have adjusted completely and you can't tension them any tighter without using a lot of force...

Isabelle


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## audiobaun (Jun 8, 2011)

Candisa said:


> I agree on the weidmuller ferrules.
> By soldering the tip of the wires, you make the wires stiff and don't have a proper contact-area in the connectors.
> By using pieces of soft tube like those weidmuller ferrules, the strands of the cables are bundled (just like when you solder them), but the overall shape can adjust to the shape of the connectors on/in the amps so you have an optimal contact surface, and because the screw is making a dent in it, it won't come out that easily anymore.
> 
> ...


Sounds like alot of work, and not a certain/confident fix to the issue, as a Fork terminal with one side removed will be a permanent and onsite fix


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## tagaiz (Nov 26, 2011)

Candisa said:


> I agree on the weidmuller ferrules.
> By soldering the tip of the wires, you make the wires stiff and don't have a proper contact-area in the connectors.
> By using pieces of soft tube like those weidmuller ferrules, the strands of the cables are bundled (just like when you solder them), but the overall shape can adjust to the shape of the connectors on/in the amps so you have an optimal contact surface, and because the screw is making a dent in it, it won't come out that easily anymore.
> 
> ...


Wouldn't it be possible to just put a small indent in the ferrules before installing them to give the screw something to grip to?


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## The Tube Doctor (Nov 24, 2009)

+1 on the ferrules.

Only problem I've had with ferrules, is that some have a thicker wall than others, and those
Allen-head set screws are sometimes a bit cheap & soft, so apart from putting in higher 
grade set screws, you can put a bit of high-temp silicone grease on the threads. You're far less likely to strip the screws or terminals, and higher contact pressure can be achieved.

You know how those gold-plated terminal screws start squeaking and creaking when you 
given them a bit of torque? That's usually followed by the allen key socket becoming a round hole. No fun at all!

This method is highly recommended if you're using the crimp collar from a ring terminal in place of a ferrule.

A quick trick; if the ring terminals are made from copper base material, you can anneal (soften) the copper by heating it up until the colors start to swirl, then immediately quench it in a cup of cold water. Copper work hardens (think of a coat-hanger being bent until it breaks) so by the time you've driven the set screws down into the annealed copper, it will 
harden a bit, and give you a seriously strong connection.


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