# Mosconi DSP 6to8 pics



## nepl29

Here's some pics of Mosconi new DSP.Loving the footprint, very tiny


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## [email protected]

Whats the price on that?


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## Melodic Acoustic

Talk to Nick Wingate over the weekend. MSRP is supposed to be around $799. Very interesting unit with some great features.


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## senior800

Definitely looks interesting. Loving that it has 2 digital inputs! There's a lot of choice and competition coming out in the processor market this year which can only be a good thing!


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## Ludemandan

Very interesting, subscribed for updates.


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## impact

Yup can't wait for this guy to come out. I just got my shipment of AS and One series amps in. I'm working on a few HAT, Mosconi systems right now and that processor will be a nice addition.


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## jel847

i have a question, why would it hav phase shift and time delay? why not one or the other?


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## stereo_luver

jel847 said:


> i have a question, why would it hav phase shift and time delay? why not one or the other?


Because both are used in the tuning and neither does the same job as the other. Neither/Other? That doesn't sound right....LOL

Chuck


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## req

im looking at that 8 inch neo front mounted motor speaker on the counter behind the DSP too... i like efficent neo\shallow midbass with frequency response from 60hz~1.2khz

but i like the large amount of choice we all have with DSP these days


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## Ludemandan

req said:


> but i like the large amount of choice we all have with DSP these days


But it comes with a large amount of price. That's the next thing they have to work on.


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## Boostedrex

Ludemandan said:


> But it comes with a large amount of price. That's the next thing they have to work on.


$799 is a "large amount of price" for a 4 way capable DSP unit? I think I'm going to have to argue that. If it's anywhere near as nice as the Mosconi amps then $799 for a full 4 way processor is actually fairly low for full MSRP.


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## BigRed

According to Nick at SBN, it will be out in May


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## Ludemandan

Boostedrex said:


> $799 is a "large amount of price" for a 4 way capable DSP unit? I think I'm going to have to argue that. If it's anywhere near as nice as the Mosconi amps then $799 for a full 4 way processor is actually fairly low for full MSRP.


I agree that it is in line as far as high end DSPs go, I just think that DSPs in general need to come down in price. I mean, I can go out and buy a laptop that's bigger and has more computing power and costs less.


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## t3sn4f2

Ludemandan said:


> I agree that it is in line as far as high end DSPs go, I just think that DSPs in general need to come down in price. I mean, I can go out and buy a laptop that's bigger and has more computing power and costs less.


True but you are paying for a lot of things that are taken care of for you aside from the basic computer DSP functionality. A laptop does not include a high end external soundcard (at least $300 when compared to the analog sections these processors offer), an intelligent power supply, processing software, etc, etc. And most important all the R&D that it took to make that product virtually plug and play. 

Will that soundcard you have your eye on work with that laptop? Oh time to spend a week looking online to see. 

Will it hibernate? 

Will that laptop handle the vibrations in my trunk? Dunno

How am I gonna properly mount and power it for free? Dunno, can I?

The only reason I see that it would be worth going through that hassle is if the carpc route gives you some sort of processing ability you can't get in a car audio processor. Even then it would have to be something VERY extraordinary to give up all the functionality advantages a car specific product offers. And nowadays processors come with so many features that it makes it even less of a draw.

$800? A bargain IMO and just about right.


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## Ludemandan

I am not proposing using a car PC in place of a proper DSP. I'm just saying, look at what you get vs what you pay. I realize this has partly to do with the volume of units produced.


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## t3sn4f2

Ludemandan said:


> I am not proposing using a car PC in place of a proper DSP. *I'm just saying, look at what you get vs what you pay.* I realize this has partly to do with the volume of units produced.



Look at _exactly_ what it is you get and see if it can be had anywhere for a lower price. 

15 years ago I paid $600 for a top of the line Alpine head unit that didn't even have an active filter for the sub. All I got for that high end upgrade was 4 volts out and an FM station identification that showed me the name of the station instead of the number. Now you get a head unit from them that has tons more, is almost half as much and still does not have the state of the art DSP that these new processors come with. 

I think we are getting plenty for our money now.


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## nepl29

The price is fair, dont know why is being mention. Im pretty sure nowadays nobody is paying MSRP on anything. MS-8 retails for $800 and im pretty sure you know how much they are going for. Im just waiting to see screenshots of the software, hopefully is just as good as the bitone.


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## subwoofery

Looks like the are going to release other amps to compete with DC Reference amps from Zapco. 
Google Translate 

Kelvin


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## herniam

Hey,

I might be able to give you some proper informations about the Mosconi DSPs, as they were developed by a german guy called Frank M.

The first idea was to create a high-quality dsp, which is not bound to any limits given by a GUI, so he started to work on the "Mindmap". After a while this project has been sold to Mosconi and the Mindmap became the 6to8, which is now limited to a GUI, so that unexp. people don´t burn down their subs by adding a EQ on 20Hz with +200dB. (which was possible with the Mindmap)

This processor might be the best thing, which is avaiable on the market as it has several features:
- you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it
- it should be build out of the finest electronics, which are on the market

It is possible (here in Germany) to get this thing "hacked" so that you can run it the way it was supposed to be (but with loss of warranty) and setup the EQs and crossovers the way you want them to be. (ex: 549,79 Hz + 3db).


The gladen amps might consist out of smaller parts from the 6to8.

That is what I know so far and can be read here: 
klangfuzzis.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=62099&hilit=mindmap&start=435


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## AAAAAAA

Any auto tune feature? can it do a center channel?


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## Boostedrex

herniam said:


> Hey,
> 
> I might be able to give you some proper informations about the Mosconi DSPs, as they were developed by a german guy called Frank M.
> 
> The first idea was to create a high-quality dsp, which is not bound to any limits given by a GUI, so he started to work on the "Mindmap". After a while this project has been sold to Mosconi and the Mindmap became the 6to8, which is now limited to a GUI, so that unexp. people don´t burn down their subs by adding a EQ on 20Hz with +200dB. (which was possible with the Mindmap)
> 
> This processor might be the best thing, which is avaiable on the market as it has several features:
> - you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it
> - it should be build out of the finest electronics, which are on the market
> 
> It is possible (here in Germany) to get this thing "hacked" so that you can run it the way it was supposed to be (but with loss of warranty) and setup the EQs and crossovers the way you want them to be. (ex: 549,79 Hz + 3db).
> 
> 
> The gladen amps might consist out of smaller parts from the 6to8.
> 
> That is what I know so far and can be read here:
> klangfuzzis.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=62099&hilit=mindmap&start=435


Very cool. Thank you for sharing that info. This could indeed be very promising!!


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## m3gunner

Looks like Ernie at Sound Innovations is a dealer for the Mosconi line. Might be worth a drive over...


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## manifest

Wow that looks pretty sweet. I'm digging all the filter types - I've never even heard of a chebychev filter before, had to look it up. The parametric eq & phase adjustments makes me wish I could've waited on the bit1.

Looking forward to screenshots of the software.


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## jel847

it does look promising.
what do they mean by " adjustable by graphical tools by diagram"?


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## matthewo

"- you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it"

i dont see how that is possible, i havent heard of a headunit that has a variable digital output, in car audio. thats not how they work. a digital optical output is always the same no mater where the source volume is, the dsp will control the output volume on the analog side. thats the whole point of digital is just information in bit, no volume adjustments.

i dont understand how you could use the source units volume control to control the digital output unless the processor was hooked up to the analog also and was using the volume signal from the rca(analogy output) but using the actual audio from the digital output of the source unit, now thats a good idea, maybe thats it.... if that is how it works that is a really good idea, and audison should have done it.

anyways, i doubt it would make my switch over to it, my bitone has served me well for almost 2 years no with no problems. also i tend to love the dash controller, i use it for controlling the sub output mostly, and changing presets. also the bitone's software is about the best right now.


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## bose301s

matthewo said:


> "- you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it"
> 
> i dont see how that is possible, i havent heard of a headunit that has a variable digital output, in car audio. thats not how they work. a digital optical output is always the same no mater where the source volume is, the dsp will control the output volume on the analog side. thats the whole point of digital is just information in bit, no volume adjustments.
> 
> i dont understand how you could use the source units volume control to control the digital output unless the processor was hooked up to the analog also and was using the volume signal from the rca(analogy output) but using the actual audio from the digital output of the source unit, now thats a good idea, maybe thats it...


That was going to be my guess.


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## bose301s

If this lives up to it's billing I am so in, basically an expanded Zapco DSP6 with newer software and more channels.


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## t3sn4f2

matthewo said:


> "- you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it"
> 
> i dont see how that is possible, i havent heard of a headunit that has a variable digital output, in car audio. thats not how they work. a digital optical output is always the same no mater where the source volume is, the dsp will control the output volume on the analog side. thats the whole point of digital is just information in bit, no volume adjustments.
> 
> i dont understand how you could use the source units volume control to control the digital output unless the processor was hooked up to the analog also and was using the volume signal from the rca(analogy output) but using the actual audio from the digital output of the source unit, now thats a good idea, maybe thats it.... if that is how it works that is a really good idea, and audison should have done it.
> 
> anyways, i doubt it would make my switch over to it, my bitone has served me well for almost 2 years no with no problems. also i tend to love the dash controller, i use it for controlling the sub output mostly, and changing presets. also the bitone's software is about the best right now.


They could be referring specifically to car with a MOST system and a Mobridge digital preamp. Where the head unit keeps all the tone and volume functionality and the Modbridge device supplies a compatible S/PDIF signal for the processor. All in the digital domain.


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## matthewo

gocha, that wouldnt help me... i wish audison would just come out with some firware updates with new features in the software, i bet there are a few including my self, that if the right stuff came along would pay good money for it.


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## nepl29

bose301s said:


> If this lives up to it's billing I am so in, basically an expanded Zapco DSP6 with newer software and more channels.


DSP8 is not that far away from being released. I know someone that was testing a DSP8 not too long ago


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## subwoofery

nepl29 said:


> DSP8 is not that far away from being released. I know someone that was testing a DSP8 not too long ago


Will it ever come out with Matt Roberts not being part of Zapco anymore? 

Kelvin


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## subwoofery

matthewo said:


> "- you are able to control your volume with your headunit, while useing the digital in. so you don´t need a additional controller as the bitone needs it"
> 
> i dont see how that is possible, i havent heard of a headunit that has a variable digital output, in car audio. thats not how they work. a digital optical output is always the same no mater where the source volume is, the dsp will control the output volume on the analog side. thats the whole point of digital is just information in bit, no volume adjustments.
> 
> i dont understand how you could use the source units volume control to control the digital output _unless the processor was hooked up to the analog also and was using the volume signal from the rca(analogy output) but using the actual audio from the digital output of the source unit_, now thats a good idea, maybe thats it.... if that is how it works that is a really good idea, and audison should have done it.
> 
> anyways, i doubt it would make my switch over to it, my bitone has served me well for almost 2 years no with no problems. also i tend to love the dash controller, i use it for controlling the sub output mostly, and changing presets. also the bitone's software is about the best right now.


I thought exactly that 

Kelvin


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## Barnie

im looking forward to having a play when we get them, software is fully upgradable and i believe there is some extra hardware in there that will be turned on or come into use with future upgrades 

software is ready and i should have a preview copy in the next few weeks, should of had it a few weeks ago but turned out a bigger file than first though :mean:


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## SSexpo03

Well in regards to the cost issue, it depends on features... You could pick up the DEX-99 and have a decent amount of processing in an all in one unit. In the case of the stand alones you spend $800 plus say $400-600 for a headunit. But if the features are broader that what the 99 offers it can be worth while. That was one of my hang ups with the old P9, it was a nice unit but didn't have all the flexibility I needed...


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## subwoofery

SSexpo03 said:


> Well in regards to the cost issue, it depends on features... You could pick up the DEX-99 and have a decent amount of processing in an all in one unit. In the case of the stand alones you spend $800 plus say $400-600 for a headunit. But if the features are broader that what the 99 offers it can be worth while. That was one of my hang ups with the old P9, it was a nice unit but didn't have all the flexibility I needed...


The P99 doesn't have PEQ or not a lot. 
The GEQ in the P99 is 1/3 oct only. 
Which means the Mosconi processor is way above in terms of versatility. 

Kelvin


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## SSexpo03

Absolutely, like I said it all depends on the functions you need. As far as EQ the P9 had all I needed it was the crossover settings that I would have liked more freedom in. A unit that was fully open and let you set any frequency and slope as well as EQ, TA, etc is great to have if you need it. Some do, some don't...


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## nepl29

subwoofery said:


> Will it ever come out with Matt Roberts not being part of Zapco anymore?
> 
> Kelvin


Yes it will.


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## subwoofery

nepl29 said:


> Yes it will.


Good to know  

Kelvin


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## bose301s

If the DSP8 from Zapco comes out ( still skeptical ) how will it compare to the DSP6, identical software and hardware with 2 more channels? If so then I think the Mosconi may have the advantage still.


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## subwoofery

bose301s said:


> If the DSP8 from Zapco comes out ( still skeptical ) how will it compare to the DSP6, identical software and hardware with 2 more channels? If so then I think the Mosconi may have the advantage still.


I read on the forum that the software is different (hardware? assuming yes) but not the interface since it was great to use. 

Kelvin


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## Boostedrex

The GUI for this unit from Mosconi will be the make/break thing for many, myself included. The Zapco processor has the best GUI on the market hands down! With Audison's GUI being awful, IMHO.


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## ErinH

Anyone know who I could contact about getting one of these for a review for this site? 

Just throwing it out there...


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## SouthSyde

bikinpunk said:


> Anyone know who I could contact about getting one of these for a review for this site?
> 
> Just throwing it out there...


maybe nick wingate?


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## ErinH

Contact info?
I'll drop him a line and see if he'd be interested in letting us get one for review.


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## thehatedguy

Just FYI, Matt Roberts was never a Zapco employee. You guys are probably thinking about Robert Rugani.


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## Boostedrex

thehatedguy said:


> Just FYI, Matt Roberts was never a Zapco employee. You guys are probably thinking about Robert Rugani.


Whew! And here I thought Kelvin knew something about Matt Roberts that I didn't. The departure of Robert Sr. and Jr. from Zapco is why I don't want to use a DSP6 in my car.

Erin, just shot you a text message about Mosconi.


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## subwoofery

Oups... My bad then for the mis-info 

Kelvin


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## SouthSyde

bikinpunk said:


> Contact info?
> I'll drop him a line and see if he'd be interested in letting us get one for review.


He is a member on here by the SN of Mitsu1grn... hope that helps..


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## Ludemandan

This really does look like it has the potential to combine the best features of the DSP6 and BitOne while leaving behind the flaws. I take back what I said about it being overpriced.


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## BigRed

I'll have mine in may 

Nick would be a good starting point to Try and get a hold of one

Boosted, what r u gonna run bro?


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## Ludemandan

What are the dimensions?


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## jsketoe

smaller than the dsp6


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## Boostedrex

BigRed said:


> I'll have mine in may
> 
> Nick would be a good starting point to Try and get a hold of one
> 
> Boosted, what r u gonna run bro?


Looks like it will have to either be this unit or the new Alpine unit due out shortly. Zapco was my first choice, but had to change those plans. BitOne and MS-8 aren't even in the running.


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## ErinH

^ i'm definitely interested in both. I'm most interested in the Q adjustments on this piece. Wonder if we can mix and max g/p-eq?

(maybe I'm reading the literature wrong?)


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## BigRed

Nice boosted.


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## EternalGraphics808

Sorry if I am going off topic, but, what happened to Audison comin out with a firmware update? Wasn't that supposed to come out around January? Anyone have any contact with them to find out if/when that should happen?


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## azngotskills

Anybody got any updates or more information about the Mosconi DSP 6to8? If you are not at liberty to post publicly, then please PM me


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## PiastXD

yeah, i get mine in the next few weeks  
very nice DSP 

regards form germany


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## TerryTee

look nice~


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## Mic10is

If this is coming out soon, like really coming out soon within the next month or so. I am very interested


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## subwoofery

Mic10is said:


> If this is coming out soon, like really coming out soon within the next month or so. I am very interested


Just wondering Mic, still using ID amps? 

Kelvin


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## senior800

Mic10is said:


> If this is coming out soon, like really coming out soon within the next month or so. I am very interested


June in Britain, probably earlier in Italy. No idea about America.


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## Ludemandan

senior800 said:


> June in Britain, probably earlier in Italy. No idea about America.


Of course, when it does come out in America it will be massively de-tuned, not as good looking and only available in automatic.


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## Barnie

AUG is the official launch date, some official news will be out this weekend or next.

There are a handfull going out in germany though 

The DSP one series amps will be out first (next month)


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## PiastXD

Here it comes out in 4-5 weeks. Some people still got One the last weeks ;-) i mean prototypes ;-) and thwy are working great.best dsp on the market ;-)

Regards from good old germany


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## Barnie

i believe you are get the first production as they can keep an eye on problems and do any upgrades needed before export

sad times :mean:



on a side note, you still have british army base in Paderborn


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## PiastXD

Barnie said:


> i believe you are get the first production as they can keep an eye on problems and do any upgrades needed before export
> 
> sad times :mean:
> 
> 
> 
> on a side note, you still have british army base in Paderborn


there arent any problems with that dsp  not like the bit One, omg, i cant often enough say, how bad that dsp is 

some got the mindmap from frank to test before it was sold to mosconi.
it runs, and runs, and for a little extra money frank pimps the 6to8 


yes, the base is 1km away from me here in paderborn.

but i heard it should get closed the next years?


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## Barnie

yes i heard frank can pimp the 6-8 and also modify the 6-8 to accept ai net, i tried to get a mindmap before it was mosconi, i soon found out why he wouldn't send me one 

I think one of the delays for export is the English versions, i only just translated the one dsp manuals and i believe you have production versions already ( not franks versions)


and who deleted the sneak peak photos on klangfuzzi, they were deleted before i could see them :mean:

im surprised the base is still open, not many left in Germany now.


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## PiastXD

this thread you mean?!

MindMap


here is a thread to the MindMap/6to8:
if you understand german 


the base is still open. it gets closed in the next 8 years they said


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## n_olympios

PiastXD said:


> here is a thread to the MindMap/6to8:
> if you understand german


Or, if you're feeling lucky and are calm, try out the google translated page. :laugh:


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## PiastXD

n_olympios said:


> Or, if you're feeling lucky and are calm, try out the google translated page. :laugh:


:2thumbsup:

talked to my carhifi-dealer today 
with a little bit of luck, i get mine the next 1-2 weeks


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## xpsvwino

Has anyone heard anything more about the US release date or customer satisfaction thus far with the 6to8?

Thanks,
G


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## PiastXD

new release date here in germany: end of july.....but i think that wont be the last release date


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## Barnie

PiastXD said:


> new release date here in germany: end of july.....but i think that wont be the last release date



around 6 weeks ago i was given end of Aug so production must be ahead of schedule


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## bose302s

Can't wait until these things start rolling out, I have a DSP6 again and the DRC but would gladly switch out for this if it lives up to the hype.


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## xpsvwino

The US importer just told me that we would see it in October.


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## gus1111

xpsvwino said:


> The US importer just told me that we would see it in October.


That's at least 3 months of agonizing waiting!!!


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## kyheng

What I interested on this is, will it be the next candidate that having "issues" after Audison's Bit1 and Alpine's H800?


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## xpsvwino

Hopefully we are waiting so that there won't be any unwanted surprises.


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## Southnash

The processor is coming soon!! Be sure to also check out the Gladen One amplifiers with a DSP built-in. I would start calling your local dealers to gain interest in the product and make sure they stock them when available!!


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## PiastXD

Southnash said:


> The processor is coming soon!


you informations arent right 
perhaps mosconi wont even produce the the 6to8. 
got an email 3 weeks ago from mosconi.
earliest date: october 2011, or the latest rumor: NEVER


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## Ale555

Well, I know where the unit is coming from. At first this was a group-development at one special forum in germany.
These units are running, but can only be "Bought" by people who developed that together. The problem is that it has so huge abilities that you´ll need a software that can handle this and (on the other hand) that you´ll understand.
As far as I am informed that is the weak point actually...


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## Mic10is

Ale555 said:


> Well, I know where the unit is coming from. At first this was a group-development at one special forum in germany.
> These units are running, but can only be "Bought" by people who developed that together. The problem is that it has so huge abilities that you´ll need a software that can handle this and (on the other hand) that you´ll understand.
> As far as I am informed that is the weak point actually...


so it isnt going to be released to the public?


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## cobb2819

The unit that was referred to as private was the mindmap or something like that. It was completely open source software and you could literally adjust whatever the heck you wanted. That unit was not available to the public.

The 6to8 is essentially the same unit, produced by mosconi, with a "safer" software. I believe the software is the hold up.


Sent from my iPhone


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## Barnie

they cant be that far behind, i have the final software for the one dsp and its not far off the same as the 6-8.

the production plan at mos is full too so finding a free slot in the schedule is also needed. the production run of the new zero amp was sold before it come off the line so another run has had to be done on those. and they say manufactures are struggling


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## Ale555

Mic10is said:


> so it isnt going to be released to the public?


That is beyond my knowledge And I could only guess( but that would help none of us  )


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## cobb2819

Barnie said:


> the production run of the new zero amp was sold before it come off the line so another run has had to be done on those.


the new what?!?!? Details required!!!


Sent from my iPhone


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## Barnie

cobb2819 said:


> the new what?!?!? Details required!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


Mosconi are doing some amps to go with the A class, the Zero series, there is 3 amps planned and booked in for production so far.

first is the zero 3, i thought they were upgraded AS line amps but the 3 is smaller than the 300.2 so all new boards, its far more efficient at lower impedence that the 300.2 to so whilst its rated slightly less @ 4ohm you get more at 1ohm/2ohm bridged

Not sure the official press release has been done yet so i may be in trouble :mean:

the other 2 are out later in the year and this amps wont be shy, the 3 is the most subtle of the lot


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## bertholomey

I have been very impressed with the AS amps, so if they get the dsp right, it should be a special product.


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## ReticulatingPigeonElf

Omg Bestbuy is selling the 6to8!


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## wdemetrius1

^^

Where are you getting this from?


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## ReticulatingPigeonElf

wdemetrius1 said:


> ^^
> 
> Where are you getting this from?


I keed. :kaboom:

seriously, BB is useless. I wish it was actually that easy.


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## wdemetrius1

ReticulatingPigeonElf said:


> I keed. :kaboom:
> 
> 
> ^^
> 
> That was hilarious!!! :laugh: :thumbsdown: :thumbsdown:


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## Barnie

cobb2819 said:


> the new what?!?!? Details required!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


OK i can say more now its officialy been released

ZERO3 [ Rev. 1.0 - Ver. 04.2011 ]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CEA-2006-A SPECIFICATIONS
POWER RATING: 270 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm < 1% THD+N
SN RATIO: >77 dBA (reference: 1 Watt into 4 Ohm)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MOS SPECIFICATIONS (Tcase = 25 °C / 4 Ohm stereo / 0.2V input level @ 14.4 Volt if not otherwise specified)
TARGET POWERs: 270 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm
520 Watt per channel @ 2 Ohm
1040 Watt BTL mode @ 4 Ohm
1850 Watt BTL mode @ 2 Ohm (*)
EFFECTIVE POWERs: 274 Watt (274 Watt @12V6) x 2 58.9 A (η = 65.1 %) @ 4 Ohm / ST mode / 1% THD / 1KHz
522 Watt (522 Watt @12V6) x 2 124.8 A (η = 58.1 %) @ 2 Ohm / ST mode / 1% THD / 1KHz
1044 Watt (1044 Watt @12V6) x 1 124.8 A (η = 58.1 %) @ 4 Ohm / BTL mode / 1% THD / 1KHz
THD @ 4 Ohm / ST mode: < 0.035 % (1KHz / 90% Power rating ref)
THD @ 2 Ohm / ST mode: < 0.040 % (1KHz / 90% Power rating ref)
DIM @ 4 Ohm / ST mode: < ----- % (Power rating ref)
DIM @ 2 Ohm / ST mode: < ----- % (Power rating ref)
DC-DC converter typology: Regulated
Conversion frequency: 50 KHz (± 6 %)
Absolute maximum operation supply voltage range: 10 V ÷ 16 V
Recommended operation supply voltage range: 11 V ÷ 14.4 V
Power-on/Power-off Voltage Threshold: 9 V / 7.5 V
Mute delay time: 3 secs
Secondary voltages (Amp. / Drive / Pre.): ±47.3 V / ±11 V / ±15.7 V
Max output offset voltage (each channel): ±15 mV
Standby current: 1.8 mA (typical)
Quiescent consumption @ 12V6: 1.05 A (no idle current regutation)
Idle current regulation (no signal): 0.15 A (each channel)
Quiescent consumption @ 12V6: 1.35 A (with idle current setted)
Thermal protection consumption: 1.5 A
Battery ground vs secondary ground decoupling: 1 KOhm
Body ground vs battery ground decoupling: 65 Ohm
Bandwidth (-3dB ÷ 1 Watt): < 5 Hz ÷ 85 KHz
Input sensitivity (Power rating ref): 0.43 V ÷ 9.5 V (1.2V ÷ 27V in High Level mode) [T.B.D.]
Input impedance @ 1 KHz (STEREO input): 11 Kohm (47 Ohm in High Level mode)
Input capacitance @ 1 KHz (STEREO input): 220 pF
Input ground decoupling: 47R (50 KOhm in High Level mode)
S/N ratio (AP filter 10 Hz - 500 KHz ) – Power rating ref: 66 dB
S/N ratio (AP filter 10 Hz - 22 KHz ) – Power rating ref: 101 dB (“A” weighted)
Eq. Input noise (AP filter 10 Hz - 500 KHz ): 214,5 uV
Eq. Input noise (AP filter 10 Hz - 22 KHz ): 3.8 uV (“A” weighted)
Channel [email protected] 100Hz / 1KHz / 10KHz – 10 Watt ref: 72 dB / 72 dB / 65 dB
Xover functions: HIGH Pass & LOW Pass (BAND Pass allowed)
(20 ÷ 175Hz) & (50 ÷ 300Hz)
Filter slope - Filter "Q": 12 dB/oct - 0.7 (Stereo & Mono)
Thermal cutoff Threshold: 88 °C (±5°C)
ProSPEED® Fan Controller Threshold: 55 °C (±5°C)
Damping factor @ 100 Hz - 10 Watt ref (Right / Left): 3158 / 3151
Damping factor @ 1 KHz - 10 Watt ref (Right / Left): 3167 / 3160
Damping factor @ 10 KHz - 10 Watt ref (Right / Left): 701 / 630
Output impedance @ 1 KHz - 10 Watt ref (Right / Left): 1.3 mOhm / 1.3 mOhm
Load drive limitations (*): 1 Ohm / 2 Ohm (Stereo / Bridged)
Suggested fuse: 150 A (Internal)
(*) VERY IMPORTANT NOTE - READ CAREFULLY
4 Ohm ST or 8 Ohm BTL – CONTINUOUS SINEWAVE SIGNAL – pure resistive load or speaker load
2 Ohm ST or 4 Ohm BTL – MUSICAL SIGNAL – pure resistive load or speaker load
1 Ohm ST or 2 Ohm BTL – MUSICAL SIGNAL – speaker load only



















cost = £800/euro. not sure on dollar but its 40% cheaper than the A class


----------



## thehatedguy

800 Euro is about $1135 USD as of today.


----------



## cobb2819

It's not just the exchange rate, US pricing is different than just converting it.


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## n_olympios

Indeed, you lucky gits get almost everything cheaper for no real reason.


----------



## GENEXXA

Found the 6to8 on a Norwegian car audio webshop.
4999 NOK is around 935USD. It sucks to live in an expensive country.

Mosconi Gladen DSP 6-8 Stand alone processor - JUDYS BILSTEREO

Are the DSP out anywhere else? Havent found it other places :/


----------



## Mic10is

GENEXXA said:


> Found the 6to8 on a Norwegian car audio webshop.
> 4999 NOK is around 935USD. It sucks to live in an expensive country.
> 
> Mosconi Gladen DSP 6-8 Stand alone processor - JUDYS BILSTEREO
> 
> Are the DSP out anywhere else? Havent found it other places :/


Unlikely it is actually out anywhere. the Last release date I got, which was directly from a Dealer who was on the phone with Mosconi as he was messaging me was November


----------



## Barnie

as above

I spoke to mosconi this week and November is next penciled in date, news and further update coming in the next day or 2 for distributors so ill update when i more info.


----------



## xpsvwino

According to the manufactures rep, the US distribution was officially pushed back "until the end of the year".

G


----------



## herniam

Well,

since the begining of Spetember you can buy a "Mindmap" in Germany.
I don´t know, if "it is the 6to8", but it is built by the same person, who set up the Mosconi.

It looks pretty good from its features and the software can be handled very easily.
I was thinking about the combination of Mindmap and my actual P99 to run 2 different crossovered subs, which is possible with this DSP.


----------



## strakele

I hope this is the last delay. I'm really interested in this processor.


----------



## herniam

strakele said:


> I hope this is the last delay. I'm really interested in this processor.


If it is a "delay"..

By now a few MindMaps have been installed, and it seems to be a good sounding unit.


----------



## nepl29

herniam said:


> If it is a "delay"..
> 
> By now a few MindMaps have been installed, and it seems to be a good sounding unit.


Any links, pricing, specs???


----------



## eviling

this thing out yet?


----------



## strakele

End of November/beginning December is what I hear.


----------



## chefhow

strakele said:


> End of November/beginning December is what I hear.


Sort of like the RF was supposed to be released in April, the H800 in Feb, and originally this was set for an Aug/Sept release. I wouldnt put money on a release date.


----------



## eviling

I just ****ing wish somebodyu would release something I'm sick of waiting.


----------



## cobb2819

HAHA...better to get it right than be like audison with the first round of BitOne processors. I'd rather wait a little, but my definition of "a little" grows shorter and shorter the closer I get to ripping my car apart!!! deadening installed (blackhole), speakers are bought and will be here Thursday (micro precision), amps are decided (mosconi), now processing and sub are all that's left (mosconi and illusion...HOPEFULLY!!!)


----------



## eviling

cobb2819 said:


> HAHA...better to get it right than be like audison with the first round of BitOne processors. I'd rather wait a little, but my definition of "a little" grows shorter and shorter the closer I get to ripping my car apart!!! deadening installed (blackhole), speakers are bought and will be here Thursday (micro precision), amps are decided (mosconi), now processing and sub are all that's left (mosconi and illusion...HOPEFULLY!!!)


thats my problem, my system is ripped apart :mean:


----------



## cobb2819

eviling said:


> thats my problem, my system is ripped apart :mean:


now that would be frustrating!!! is the 6to8 what you're waiting on, or are you bouncing around waiting to see who's will be first and best??


----------



## chefhow

If you are building a system around a processor that hasnt been built yet I am sorry. The 6to8 has been in the works for YEARS from what I have read and isnt ready for production. \

The 3Sixty.3 or 3Sixty.5(I have heard it called both as of late) has been pushed back countless times and there are issues with production from what I was told yesterday from a long time RF Dealer and Rep.

The Helix P-DSP is out, it works and it works well. So does the MiniDSP 2x8, 8x8, and 10x10 and now that it has an onboard power supply it is noise free. 

Good luck.


----------



## cobb2819

chefhow said:


> If you are building a system around a processor that hasnt been built yet I am sorry. The 6to8 has been in the works for YEARS from what I have read and isnt ready for production.


I've been told should be in stock and available just after CES


----------



## chefhow

cobb2819 said:


> I've been told should be in stock and available just after CES


And it may be, but over the summer I was told the same thing about it being in stock and available by August so I (along with several other people) could have it in my car for MECA Finals in October. I hope it is but I'm not holding my breath for any of them at this point.


----------



## eviling

yea, the systems not being built around it, swapping out processors is a simple matter of that, it's the weather constraints on my build that are ****ing me, never seeming to work out. last week would of been great had i not been so busy with school, and my sisters wedding, now this week i have a 5 page research paper to write and tons of homework from my other classes, never workng out  but should be starting some seriouse building soon i hope. Ive been considering allllllll of these processors, the helix C, the P, the h800, the ms-8, the 701\700. the 3 sixty.3. the delays on every single one of these processors is just ****ing MIND BOGGLING. i cant believe every single one of these companys have failed to produce a viable processor in production. ive ran the ms-8 in the past, and am currently running a 700, so it technicly isn't holding me down, but being told oh its coming out this month or next month is causing me to hold off on things and it's just tearing on both arms 

it may hold me down depending on how i build my rack though because the size difference in some of these is quite vast, the masconi is tiny compared to the ms-8, the .3, even the h800 is much larger than it. and the c and p are very different in size and shape as well. from what I hear RF dealers can get helix stuff, i know dave is a RF dealer ima see if his rep would be able to get ahold of a Helix C or P for me, sitll not even sure on the difference between them, but I really like the helix processors from what ive read so far. for me i think the Helix C is the rout for me, frm what ive been reading, and it's availability, its gonna be hard to get ahold of one but I think i can pul it off, or shell out 1200$ which i might be able to do if i can sell this damn gear i have. 

if anybody is interested in the helix, this is the info ive got - 

http://www.extremeaudio.de/gb/helix-c-dsp-digital-sound-processor.html

http://www.extremeaudio.de/gb/helix-p-dsp-digital-sound-processor.html

the C is from what im seeing the specs the version for us, as it's the higher end version with no compromises to quality, as the p is a more stream line version it seems, the C has dual processors, and all kidns of other stuff i dont fully understand lol I am curiouse how the software works though, cant be any harder than managing this damn h700, i hate the interface.


----------



## Boostedrex

I hate the delay in release of the new "wave" of DSP units as well. But like was mentioned earlier, it's much better to wait and get it right the first time instead of rushing a flawed product to market. We've seen a few companies do that in the past couple of years. Even with the waiting, it's easy to cross the MS-8 and any Audison DSP unit off my list. Neither one is up to my standards. So now it's between the 6to8, Helix P, and H800. We'll see who wins that contest...


----------



## ErinH

I hope you spell better in your research paper than you do on this forum.


----------



## eviling

bikinpunk said:


> I hope you spell better in your research paper than you do on this forum.


I proof read my papers  plus word has a better spell check.

by the way, its only 30$ shipping to the east coast from that site i linked, but the C comes out to roughly 1265 USD shipped  might have to wait just a bit on that kind of purchase :-s


----------



## subwoofery

eviling said:


> I just ****ing wish somebodyu would release something I'm sick of waiting.


Just buy the Helix P-DSP or C-DSP. 

Kelvin


----------



## eviling

subwoofery said:


> Just buy the Helix P-DSP or C-DSP.
> 
> Kelvin


I think i wanan go with the c, since its the best  but yeah, i talked to a local shop who was a rf dealer but their rep only comes around 2 or 3 times a year and he was apparnelty jsut their, so im now in contact with a friend from here who personaly knows a rep who's been in with RF for years im gonna see if he can get ahold of some, maybe do a group purchase or something because i know their are dozens of peopel on here looking to make a connection and get ahold of one.


----------



## subwoofery

eviling said:


> I think i wanan go with the c, since its the best  but yeah, i talked to a local shop who was a rf dealer but their rep only comes around 2 or 3 times a year and he was apparnelty jsut their, so im now in contact with a friend from here who personaly knows a rep who's been in with RF for years im gonna see if he can get ahold of some, maybe do a group purchase or something because i know their are dozens of peopel on here looking to make a connection and get ahold of one.


For $1200+, not sure there's THAT many people that will be willing to be part of the group buy... I see only a handful of competitors jumping in and a few amateurs but that's about it... 
If it was the P version, it would be a different story 

Kelvin


----------



## Boostedrex

subwoofery said:


> For $1200+, not sure there's THAT many people that will be willing to be part of the group buy... I see only a handful of competitors jumping in and a few amateurs but that's about it...
> If it was the P version, it would be a different story
> 
> Kelvin


I agree with Kelvin. The P model is more than enough for 95% of people's needs. I couldn't justify the C model for me for anywhere near the $1200 price tag. I have already proven that I don't need an insane processor to get great sound in a car. So the P model will be perfect.


----------



## chefhow

Boostedrex said:


> I couldn't justify the C model for me for anywhere near the $1200 price tag. I have already proven that I don't need an insane processor to get great sound in a car. So the P model will be perfect.


QFT!!!! There is NO need for a $1200 plus processor. I have watched people win at the highest level in the past 2 years with OLD processors and $300 front stages


----------



## Boostedrex

chefhow said:


> QFT!!!! There is NO need for a $1200 plus processor. I have watched people win at the highest level in the past 2 years with OLD processors and $300 front stages


You couldn't be more correct Howard!!


----------



## eviling

subwoofery said:


> For $1200+, not sure there's THAT many people that will be willing to be part of the group buy... I see only a handful of competitors jumping in and a few amateurs but that's about it...
> If it was the P version, it would be a different story
> 
> Kelvin


this is true.im just perosnaly interested in the higher end, im a techy person, i was hoping it'd be more int he 700-900 range direct rather than the import mark ups. i mean look how focal gets marked up on their imports on thier high end lines like thier no.6 kit, or pioneers high end lines that are only in i believe asia? 

I'm sure the guy would do both units assuming he can do the purchases of course. i'd certainly my self be more than willing to help work on a purchase on varrying units, would jsut have to make sure somebody who ordered a C doesnt get a P haha talk abotu an unhappy person :laugh: I'll have an answer by the end of the day, my guy was busy when i called him, he said he would get ahold of his rep by the end of the day.


----------



## Ale555

Sincee April you can buy the H800 here, and it works flawless since May.
The P-DSP is finally available to the public since September (in proper working status) 

The 6to8...saw it working, but I still don´t believe that it will be out in proper working form until March 2012.

I really do wonder why (esp. Alpine) does not sell the units in the U.S. by now?!


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

I hope the Mosconi is out before then but if it isn't that will give me time to save up for the two Mosconi amps that aren't out on the market yet...the lx series I think. As for the Alpine not being stateside yet I have a sneaky suspision that our neighbors across the pond don't think we're into sq over here. From the outside looking in I can see how that would be true. People that are actually into sq are a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a percent compared to people just wanting to get loud.


----------



## trojan fan

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I hope the Mosconi is out before then but if it isn't that will give me time to save up for the two Mosconi amps that aren't out on the market yet...the lx series I think. As for the Alpine not being stateside yet I have a sneaky suspision that our neighbors across the pond don't think we're into sq over here. From the outside looking in I can see how that would be true. People that are actually into sq are a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a percent compared to people just wanting to get loud.


So what percent does that actually break down to


----------



## eviling

trojan fan said:


> So what percent does that actually break down to


I'd say wer're probobly not even .03% of the market, especily when talking this kind of processing we're getting even lower than that. 


ive been talking to somebody (pure speculation) about these situations, the gentleman ive been talkingt o has been very imformed in the current mosconi situation with the origonal developer of the unit that masconi is working with Frank Miketta, he made it and sold it and all rights to masconi, he became annoyed with masconis delays and started on antoher processor based on the mindmap program, he made a 6 output version and now (a few months back)) has an 8 output version, it has optic in, and 2-6 rca in's it seems like a nice proecessor and from what i undertstand is "hard" to get but not impossible. personaly i'm looking into a unit that can read the volume controls via optic but i dont know if anything coming out right now will have this feature, i might be limited to the h800 and the bitone if thats the case.


as far as a group buy from ANY imports, not possibe, with all of the money monitoring over their because of money loundering and imbezlment and all that stuff, any large transactions to accounts that are imediatley exchanged for products will set off alarms.


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I hope the Mosconi is out before then but if it isn't that will give me time to save up for the two Mosconi amps that aren't out on the market yet...the lx series I think.


Are you referring to the Zeros??


----------



## cobb2819

eviling said:


> personaly i'm looking into a unit that can read the volume controls via optic but i dont know if anything coming out right now will have this feature, i might be limited to the h800 and the bitone if thats the case.


Optical signal does not carry a "volume". The reason a BitOne has the optical in is because it has it's own volume control.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

cobb2819 said:


> Are you referring to the Zeros??


The ones replacing the AS line. I'm wanting a pair of 100.4's.


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> The ones replacing the AS line. I'm wanting a pair of 100.4's.


There is no replacement for the AS, it is still a current line. The One, AS, Zero, and A-Class are current and moving forward, and in that order for placement in the Mosconi Lineup.


----------



## eviling

cobb2819 said:


> Optical signal does not carry a "volume". The reason a BitOne has the optical in is because it has it's own volume control.


optical def does carry a volume signal; or rather in my case since my transport is a computer. i know the alpine decks do the volume control via the AI net line


----------



## cobb2819

eviling said:


> optical def does carry a volume signal; or rather in my case since my transport is a computer. i know the alpine decks do the volume control via the AI net line


In a computer, the sound card does your volume control. in a MOST system, volume is data, in a home environment, volume is controlled at the amp or preamp AFTER the optical.


----------



## eviling

cobb2819 said:


> In a computer, the sound card does your volume control. in a MOST system, volume is data, in a home environment, volume is controlled at the amp or preamp AFTER the optical.


im fairly certain its still sent out of most auido cards off a computer, be them attached or external, i know optics are def captible of carrying more info than music, granted their is a mild compression, so their is allota data flowing, the volume data is sooooooooo minute would only need to be sent while changing volumes I'd have to venture to say it def has it, you are right though, most volume with optic inptu is done through a reciever. even my logit tech z5500  hmm im gonna have to research that, but either case, our processors DO not. 

what i am learning though is, their are controls build into some of the units coming out, the helix P has a UI panel on its side that you can wire into with out any seriouse soldering and warrenty voiding.


----------



## cobb2819

eviling said:


> the volume data is sooooooooo minute would only need to be sent while changing volumes I'd have to venture to say it def has it, you are right though, most volume with optic inptu is done through a reciever. even my logit tech z5500  hmm im gonna have to research that, but either case, our processors DO not.


I was gonna say I was starting to go crazy. It's not that it's not possible, it's just not done. one of the biggest drawbacks for TOSLINK is that jitters are caused by bandwidth limitations. So just adding on the volume signals could drastically change the way something sounds, muddy it up, or straight up cause audio to cut out. TOSLINK or Optical, as it's used today, is a audio transmission that needs an external volume control. That's why I brought up the BitOne. The Bit10 without the DRC will not do an optical input, but the Bit10D with the DRC will do optical?! It is essentially the same processor.

And yes, the Audio signal from a computer transport is bounced off the card, but it's destination has to have a volume control. if you want to go computer to bitone or H800, that's perfect, because they require the use of an external volume control. To the best of my knowledge, the 6to8 will not support optical.


----------



## eviling

cobb2819 said:


> I was gonna say I was starting to go crazy. It's not that it's not possible, it's just not done. one of the biggest drawbacks for TOSLINK is that jitters are caused by bandwidth limitations. So just adding on the volume signals could drastically change the way something sounds, muddy it up, or straight up cause audio to cut out. TOSLINK or Optical, as it's used today, is a audio transmission that needs an external volume control. That's why I brought up the BitOne. The Bit10 without the DRC will not do an optical input, but the Bit10D with the DRC will do optical?! It is essentially the same processor.
> 
> And yes, the Audio signal from a computer transport is bounced off the card, but it's destination has to have a volume control. if you want to go computer to bitone or H800, that's perfect, because they require the use of an external volume control. To the best of my knowledge, the 6to8 will not support optical.


yeah, but like i said if you put a pot. on the helix C \ p units, you can do it it seems, you could also mod many other processors in this same way. perosnaly i'm not sure about the bit one, ive heard it has allota ground noise issues? plus their a ***** to get :\ and over priced most the time :mean:


----------



## cobb2819

eviling said:


> yeah, but like i said if you put a pot. on the helix C \ p units, you can do it it seems, you could also mod many other processors in this same way. perosnaly i'm not sure about the bit one, ive heard it has allota ground noise issues? plus their a ***** to get :\ and over priced most the time :mean:


so your saying to add an external volume control?? The exactly my point. Your not reading any volume signal over optical, you're simply adding an external volume control.

Can anyone else confirm the Helix Bluetooth & optical kit and how it works?? This has PITA like the RF 3Sixty and also cool as heck written all over it.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

We at Orca have been advised that we will have our working 6 to 8 Mosconi DSP later on in December. We should have it up and running at CES in Las Vegas in January.

Our understanding is that the unit will have Toslink input and possibly even S/PDIF. I certainly hope for the S/PDIF as it is a much better signal transfer medium. For those of you who think that the DSP is a Pipe Dream from Mosconi, we have amps at Orca that have a 4 channel version of the DSP processor built into them and they are working flawlessly. We have been very impressed with the ease of use and the flexibility built into them!

As soon as I know more, I will let everyone on here will be advised on the date of release!

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi/Audio System/ Illusion Audio America


----------



## cobb2819

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> We at Orca have been advised that we will have our working 6 to 8 Mosconi DSP later on in December. We should have it up and running at CES in Las Vegas in January.


So there will be only one?? the Highlander of the DSP world?!? haha. Looking forward to it.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

I've asked for more of them, but we are only promised one. Duane is trying to get more of them!! Ill let you know if it happens!

Nick


----------



## cobb2819

Mitsu1grn said:


> I've asked for more of them, but we are only promised one. Duane is trying to get more of them!! Ill let you know if it happens!
> 
> Nick


Oh trust me, Duane knows, HAHA. We were talking about it for my shop car maybe late last week.


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

cobb2819 said:


> There is no replacement for the AS, it is still a current line. The One, AS, Zero, and A-Class are current and moving forward, and in that order for placement in the Mosconi Lineup.


The guy I'm getting mine through said the AS is getting replaced by the LX series. Maybe he got a little mixed up or somethin?


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> The guy I'm getting mine through said the AS is getting replaced by the LX series. Maybe he got a little mixed up or somethin?


I have heard nothing of the sort, maybe Nick can chime in on this also.


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## Mitsu1grn

I've asked for more of them, but we are only promised one. Duane is trying to get more of them!! Ill let you know if it happens!

Nick


----------



## xpsvwino

What is the expected MSRP?

Gary


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

Nick, I know this is ot for this thread but can you confirm what the Mosconi amp lineup will be for next year? I'm getting two different answers on this and need to know who's right.


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> Nick, I know this is ot for this thread but can you confirm what the Mosconi amp lineup will be for next year? I'm getting two different answers on this and need to know who's right.


Just asked, the AS is current through at least the 2012 model year, no replacement planned.


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

I'm the idiot. These are Audiosystems amps I'm getting. Something just got mixed up in translation lol.


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I'm the idiot. These are Audiosystems amps I'm getting. Something just got mixed up in translation lol.


The x-ion are getting discontinued and the gladen audio amps are getting phased in. The rs100c4 is a nice little amp, but the mosconi one 120.4 is more power for only $50 more. I've recently installed an rs100c4 and it's a really good looking amp. 


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## jsketoe

my understanding was that the AS continued...the Zero filled gaps around the classA. It's all "badassery" really. lol The freaking product rocks.


----------



## cobb2819

Hillbilly SQ said:


> I'm the idiot. These are Audiosystems amps I'm getting. Something just got mixed up in translation lol.


feel free to drop me a pm or e-mail if you've got questions.


----------



## strakele

Anybody heard anything about this recently?


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> Anybody heard anything about this recently?


There should be a working demo at ces


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## eviling

thats what im hearing.


----------



## 1998993C2S

Ludemandan said:


> Of course, when it does come out in America it will be massively de-tuned, not as good looking and only available in automatic.



When I read this It cracked me up!

Signed, a de-contented Audi, Porsche and VW owner.

PS. So where are the Mosconi DSP One Amps? And the MindMap DSP in 
N. America?


----------



## cobb2819

1998993C2S said:


> When I read this It cracked me up!
> 
> Signed, a de-contented Audi, Porsche and VW owner.
> 
> PS. So where are the Mosconi DSP One Amps? And the MindMap DSP in
> N. America?


No mindmap, waiting on the 6to8. And the One DSP Amps are here already.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Hillbilly SQ

Ludemandan said:


> Of course, when it does come out in America it will be massively de-tuned, not as good looking and only available in automatic.


Umm sure. I highly doubt they'll do something like the MS-gr8. After talking to several people that own that unit it seems that tuning manual is quicker and easier even with the learning curve involved for a lot of new users is easier than trying to get the staging you want with headset and a unit that constantly tries to pin the center image to the left pillar. The smart thing would be to make sure the Mosconi does several things the bitone can't. And also possibly edge the Helix unit out in some way. I'm fully aware that there will be people with more money than brains buying the Mosconi because it's the "latest and greatest" but hopefully those people will have enough sense to seek professional help when tuning so they can then have the info they need to learn on their own as they tune. I can't wait to get the Mosconi in my hands. It won't solve install related problems but it will sure help with making what you have sound the best it possibly can. Hopefully I can get in on the first run of them coming out after CES.


----------



## nigel1977

I do believe there is a working unit at CES.


----------



## eviling

nigel1977 said:


> I do believe there is a working unit at CES.


the unit's been working for years man, it was a working unit when they bought the damn thing  well idk years idk when he made it. but if i do fall off of my internal processingr, its this unit, the helix, or the .3, still in the air, but as of now i do have a more afirmative plan. i at least have the sound card, but who knows what will happen.


----------



## Mic10is

nigel1977 said:


> I do believe there is a working unit at CES.


they brought 5 to CES and sold them already


----------



## nepl29

Mic10is said:


> they brought 5 to CES and sold them already


I know where one is going to


----------



## Mic10is

nepl29 said:


> I know where one is going to


so do I
Bing got one and will do a small review when he gets back


----------



## nepl29

Mic10is said:


> so do I
> Bing got one and will do a small review when he gets back


I saw Bing unit on Facebook. Are you going do a comparison between your P-dsp and 6to8?


----------



## Mic10is

nepl29 said:


> I saw Bing unit on Facebook. Are you going do a comparison between your P-dsp and 6to8?


I didnt mean that I got one. I meant Bing got one....
I have no plans to get one...I'll either keep my P-DSP, get a C-DSP or ultimately get a PS8
Mosconi missed the boat with all their delays


----------



## ErinH

Mic10is said:


> I didnt mean that I got one. I meant Bing got one....
> I have no plans to get one...I'll either keep my P-DSP, get a C-DSP or ultimately get a PS8
> Mosconi missed the boat with all their delays


Someone really needs to sit down and do a comparison sheet of the new dsp's. It seems there are a lot of competing ones in varying price ranges with only a few things singular to each unit. Otherwise, they're seemingly very similar sans the cDSP and ps8.


----------



## BigRed

I don't think Bing acutally got one at ces, he ordered one of the five they had at the warehouse and he had one shipped to him 

nevertheless it should be interesting to see what he thinks


----------



## Tnutt19

They actually have 50 at the warehouse they are shipping from what I was told. Those will be gone super quick if they aren't already though. I agree it would be nice if someone did a comparison of all the top processors new included.

Question though, are the toslink inputs the only aux or is there an adaptor for a 3.5 mm aux too?


----------



## simplicityinsound

The one i showed on fb is not the one i got...it will be waiting for me when i get home. I dont believe there r any left in this batch but more on their way. i wont be reviewing it persay by itself..but it will be going into a customers car in a coupla weeks so i will post my thought in a real world setup. Out of all the processora that r slated to be released this year..this is the first. All others...including zapco arc rf alpine..at all a few months away as far as i know.

More when i get back

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mic10is

simplicityinsound said:


> Out of all the processora that r slated to be released this year..this is the first. All others...including zapco arc rf alpine..at all a few months away as far as i know.
> 
> More when i get back
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk


except this was scheduled to be released last year...hence the reason for the entire thread


----------



## Tnutt19

Tnutt19 said:


> They actually have 50 at the warehouse they are shipping from what I was told. Those will be gone super quick if they aren't already though. I agree it would be nice if someone did a comparison of all the top processors new included.
> 
> Question though, are the toslink inputs the only aux or is there an adaptor for a 3.5 mm aux too?


Never mind I saw by looking at the software you can change input channels 5 and 6 to be auxiliaries also.


----------



## simplicityinsound

Oh delays in mobile processor releases never happen right Mic? Btw hows that ID-ONE doing that we "had" in the Teg so many yeas ago?  

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mic10is

simplicityinsound said:


> Oh delays in mobile processor releases never happen right Mic? Btw hows that ID-ONE doing that we "had" in the Teg so many yeas ago?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk


I was just pointing out that processors that were actually scheduled to be released this year are a very small handful like the ARC PS8.
Mosconi has sent out numerous "ship dates" to dealers all year long, so to say that the 628 processor is one of the only 2011 products that is actually readily available isnt exactly accurate bc its been over a year in development

Its not a dig on Mosconi-delays happen.


----------



## therichinc

Mic10is said:


> they brought 5 to CES and sold them already


Haha one of which is mine and it will be here Monday!!!!


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> I was just pointing out that processors that were actually scheduled to be released this year are a very small handful like the ARC PS8.
> Mosconi has sent out numerous "ship dates" to dealers all year long, so to say that the 628 processor is one of the only 2011 products that is actually readily available isnt exactly accurate bc its been over a year in development
> 
> Its not a dig on Mosconi-delays happen.


I've had info about the ps8 for a year at least. It was supposed to be "out soon" when I signed my arc dealer agreement for last year. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ErinH

The ps8 has never had a ship date. Still doesn't. This is what Mic is referencing.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!!!

As I have now returned from CES 2012 I can now tell you that Orca has on order at least 50 of the 6 to 8 processor. We are actually asking the folks at Mosconi for more. As to how many additionally we will get, I don't know, but as soon as I do I will let the forum know.

I will let you guys know that we probably have all 50 pre sold so if you do want one, please let your local Mosconi dealer know ASAP. This DSP is manufactured 100% in Europe and is not China based. The folks at Mosconi are not going to send this product there for production.

Everything that was shown at Spring Break 2011 as far as function and processing is still intact with more added. I can go into great detail about it and take about an hour of everyones time, and I will, just not today. Give me a few days to recover and Ill go into great detail about what it can do.

I can tell you that this piece is more powerful than a DBX drive rack 460 and is easier to use. I will be bluetooth available for wireless interface with your computer or Andriod based phone. It is available with a digital input with either S/PDIF or Toslink. It is an option for the unit as is the remote control. 

Size wise it has not changes much at all from the unit pictured at the beginning of this thread. 

Ill get back to you guys later on this week with more details.

Nick Wingate Jr.
National Training Coordinator
Focal America/Mosconi America/Illusion Audio America


----------



## bassfromspace

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!!!
> 
> As I have now returned from CES 2012 I can now tell you that Orca has on order at least 50 of the 6 to 8 processor. We are actually asking the folks at Mosconi for more. As to how many additionally we will get, I don't know, but as soon as I do I will let the forum know.
> 
> I will let you guys know that we probably have all 50 pre sold so if you do want one, please let your local Mosconi dealer know ASAP. This DSP is manufactured 100% in Europe and is not China based. The folks at Mosconi are not going to send this product there for production.
> 
> Everything that was shown at Spring Break 2011 as far as function and processing is still intact with more added. I can go into great detail about it and take about an hour of everyones time, and I will, just not today. Give me a few days to recover and Ill go into great detail about what it can do.
> 
> I can tell you that this piece is more powerful than a DBX drive rack 460 and is easier to use. I will be bluetooth available for wireless interface with your computer or Andriod based phone. It is available with a digital input with either S/PDIF or Toslink. It is an option for the unit as is the remote control.
> 
> Size wise it has not changes much at all from the unit pictured at the beginning of this thread.
> 
> Ill get back to you guys later on this week with more details.
> 
> Nick Wingate Jr.
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal America/Mosconi America/Illusion Audio America


Who deals Mosconi in DFW?


----------



## cobb2819

bassfromspace said:


> Who deals Mosconi in DFW?


If not, come to Albuquerque, haha.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bassfromspace

cobb2819 said:


> If not, come to Albuquerque, haha.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's some serious SQ.


----------



## eviling

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!!!
> 
> As I have now returned from CES 2012 I can now tell you that Orca has on order at least 50 of the 6 to 8 processor. We are actually asking the folks at Mosconi for more. As to how many additionally we will get, I don't know, but as soon as I do I will let the forum know.
> 
> I will let you guys know that we probably have all 50 pre sold so if you do want one, please let your local Mosconi dealer know ASAP. This DSP is manufactured 100% in Europe and is not China based. The folks at Mosconi are not going to send this product there for production.
> 
> Everything that was shown at Spring Break 2011 as far as function and processing is still intact with more added. I can go into great detail about it and take about an hour of everyones time, and I will, just not today. Give me a few days to recover and Ill go into great detail about what it can do.
> 
> I can tell you that this piece is more powerful than a DBX drive rack 460 and is easier to use. I will be bluetooth available for wireless interface with your computer or Andriod based phone. It is available with a digital input with either S/PDIF or Toslink. It is an option for the unit as is the remote control.
> 
> Size wise it has not changes much at all from the unit pictured at the beginning of this thread.
> 
> Ill get back to you guys later on this week with more details.
> 
> Nick Wingate Jr.
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal America/Mosconi America/Illusion Audio America


Im still floating on external processing, i do have a sound card, but idk if i wanna go through all the fuss with it, 150$ lost isnt much in the big picture. the helix can have pots added so i could use it with the optic in, can the 6 to 8 read volume signatures via optic? i know its been talked about in length, but were the final specs when the book hit the tabble? i would really be interested as i may be interested in one


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

I will inquire with the folks at Mosconi to see if the digital input turns off the analog input side. When we first learned of the processor one of the things that it was going to be able to do is enable the end user to turn on the digital input and still utilize the analog input side as well, 

If your source has a digital output and an analog output as well you were going to be able to use both on the processor at the same time. This way you could hook up the RCA outputs to the processor and the digital side as well. The processor would see the digital bit stream and use it for processing the music but would also see the voltage swing on the RCA input and would use that to vary the output voltage on the output stages so you would have basically a volume control via your source unit. 

I dont know if that function is working on the 6 to 8. It did not come up at CES so I didn't think to ask Henning about it. I should have, my bad. Ill find out ASAP and get back to you with an answer.

As to a dealer in DFW, Im sure we do and Ill find our today and post it today.


Nick


----------



## strakele

That sounds AWESOME. How long do you think before the Android interface will be ready?


----------



## ErinH

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> I will inquire with the folks at Mosconi to see if the digital input turns off the analog input side. When we first learned of the processor one of the things that it was going to be able to do is enable the end user to turn on the digital input and still utilize the analog input side as well,
> 
> If your source has a digital output and an analog output as well you were going to be able to use both on the processor at the same time. This way you could hook up the RCA outputs to the processor and the digital side as well. The processor would see the digital bit stream and use it for processing the music but would also see the voltage swing on the RCA input and would use that to vary the output voltage on the output stages so you would have basically a volume control via your source unit.
> 
> I dont know if that function is working on the 6 to 8. It did not come up at CES so I didn't think to ask Henning about it. I should have, my bad. Ill find out ASAP and get back to you with an answer.
> 
> As to a dealer in DFW, Im sure we do and Ill find our today and post it today.
> 
> 
> Nick


That's very interesting.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

The Android App is scheduled for an April release.


----------



## simplicityinsound

great to meet you in person Nick


----------



## Mitsu1grn

You too sir!!! Really appreciate you coming by the booth and giving everything a listen!!!


----------



## basher8621

Any pics of the controller? 

I can't wait to get a 6to8 in my car.


----------



## vapor77

bump for more info/updates... I want one of these.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> That's very interesting.


Indeed


----------



## YellowC4S

Any dealers in the Detroit/Metro area?


----------



## Mitsu1grn

We do have Focal dealers in the Metro Detroit area. I do not know about Mosconi dealers in that part of Michigan. If you cannot find a Mosconi dealer in that area, go to your local Focal dealer and they will be able to contact Orca and see about getting you a 6 to 8.


----------



## omegaslast

So these are currently sitting on shelves and theres no interface pics?? who runs a business this way?


----------



## 1998993C2S

omegaslast said:


> So these are currently sitting on shelves and theres no interface pics?? who runs a business this way?



+1. 

The clumbsy rollout of this long awaited DSP 6 to 8 product is mind boggle-ing....

I run a business and gotta say... heads would roll..

After leaving the corporate world 15-something years ago I was asked, "so,,, what's it like running your own shop'? I replied, paper clips cost money... 

What business lets opportunity go to seed ???? 
The N. American Mosconi are you listening????


----------



## YellowC4S

does the Mosconi unit auto-tune?


----------



## BigRed

YellowC4S said:


> does the Mosconi unit auto-tune?


No it does not


----------



## subwoofery

YellowC4S said:


> does the Mosconi unit auto-tune?


Nope... 

Kelvin


----------



## bbfoto

Hey guys, I just realized when looking at the photos that there isn't a USB port that I can see. Isn't this unit supposed to have one to connect to your computer to tune? Did I miss it?

Or does it come with a proprietary USB cable that connects to that 3-pin "Prog" connector?


----------



## cobb2819

bbfoto said:


> Or does it come with a proprietary USB cable that connects to that 3-pin "Prog" connector?


should be this.


----------



## Rupinder

i am informed by the distributor that mosconi 6to 8 will be available in 15 day .price about 40k indian rupees.i am yet to decide between these three processors.
mosconi 6to8,helix p-dsp, alpine h800.
which do you think i should go for. i already have a mosconi amp as 100.4 in my car and am pretty happy with it


----------



## bertholomey

A quick question that came up in a discussion about the Mosconi (I apologize if it has been stated previously - no time to go back through the entire thread this morning) - what would be the expectation of the Android app - just basic functions like presets or would you be able to do all / some of the tuning through the Android app? Again, apologies if already stated.


----------



## Rupinder

presenting the dsp 6 to8 brochure


----------



## cobb2819

Rupinder said:


> presenting the dsp 6 to8 brochure


So many simple questions answered by this!!! AWESOME!!! Now, if they can just get with the iPhone/iPad app, life will be golden.


----------



## basher8621

So what do I search for in my android market? I searched, mosconi, gladen audio, gladen audio 6 to 8.


----------



## Rupinder

if you read the brochure it is written that app is free with the software .not available on android market.


----------



## basher8621

Thanks. I went back a re-read it. I saw that.


----------



## cobb2819

I've been playing with the software for a day now, just getting used to it (and the software for the Mosconi One DSP amps), and it's easy to use and very capable. The Para-Graphic EQ is fun, and increases the versatility. Thought about picking up a cheap Android tab for the app, but since it's mostly just a control for Bal/Fad and Volume / Sub Level, I think i will just wait for the iOS releases, even if they take a little time. No sense in having ANOTHER device.


----------



## bbfoto

It would be great if the Android app offered full control, as I'm currently using my Samsung Galaxy Note/GT-N7000 5.3" 1290x800 display Phablet as my digital music source...hands-free phone, turn-by-turn Google Nav, music, video, Internet, email, etc.

Like you, I don't want to add another device to the system! I might switch to the iPad 3 when it comes out...I hear they might have turn-by-turn Nav finally. 

Bing, if you're reading this, did you get your cusromer's 6-to-8 installed yet?


----------



## bertholomey

I mostly just want to be able to switch the presets with the app - avoiding hooking up the computer just to get a different preset - the bluetooth module / app has more apeal to me than the controller at this point. 

....and here is a link to Bing's recent install - that dsp is Tiny!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/122918-tubes-galore-2003-toyota-matrix-sq-install.html


----------



## cobb2819

bertholomey said:


> I mostly just want to be able to switch the presets with the app - avoiding hooking up the computer just to get a different preset - the bluetooth module / app has more apeal to me than the controller at this point.


Same here. But I'll wait until the iOS update for the bt issue is fixed, wait for the iDevice app to be released, and match it up with the focal iBox and I'll be golden.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!!

We have 6 to 8 DSP's in stock now at Orca! We also have some of the new ZERO amps from Mosconi in stock as well!!

Just and FYI for everybody!!

Nick


----------



## killahsharksjc

Mosconi - News



I got my 6to8 today.. Ill have it installed tomorrow....


----------



## eviling

" SP-Dif Digital card with optical input. Optional, available in April "

FAIL


----------



## south east customz

eviling said:


> " SP-Dif Digital card with optical input. Optional, available in April "
> 
> FAIL


Double fail


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Here is the latest on the question pertaining to the digital input and being able to control the volume of the system via analog input. We have received a response from Europe and you can control the volume via the analog input on channel 1/2 on the input side of the setup in the program. What you do is enable the Digital input, you will see two boxes within the icon and it will ask you if you want to enable the digital bit stream and analog for remote volume control. This works when you use either high level or low level inputs on the unit. 

One more bit of information for those who would like to know more about the features of the unit. In the delay section you have the ability to group delay any and all channels of the output section. For instance, if you wish to delay Tweeter left ( channel 1) to Midrange left ( channel 3) you can. You may also delay Channel 1 and 3 to Bass driver ( channel 5). In other words you can get all of the left drivers to be in-phase acoustically one the left side, do the exact same thing on the right side, then group delay right to left or vice versa and then you will be able to delay all front channels to the subs so that all drivers in the car are acoustically in phase. Absolute Phase section of the 6 to 8 does the exact same thing. This makes tuning a whole lot easier and less time consuming when it comes to phase and degrees of phase. 

just keeping everyone up to speed on the unit and its functions. As I use the unit in my home system and learn more Ill let you know what I like and what I like and what I dont like.

Nick


----------



## south east customz

Nick is the digital bit stream volume control not available till April?


----------



## ErinH

Mitsu1grn said:


> In other words you can get all of the left drivers to be in-phase acoustically one the left side, do the exact same thing on the right side, then group delay right to left or vice versa and then you will be able to delay all front channels to the subs so that all drivers in the car are acoustically in phase.
> 
> Nick


This is a great feature.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

The digital input feature will be available in April. Once that is installed, the unit can be configured to use ANY HEAD UNIT FACTORY OR AFTERMARKET as the source for volume control. The way this would work is if you have an aftermarket head unit that has a digital output and analog output that are both constant. You would input interconnect from your headunit into input 1/2 on the DSP. You would also install your S/PDIF into the digital input of the DSP out of same headunit. If both the analog and digital signals are working, then when you turn the volume up or down on your headunit the DSP would see the voltage change via the analog input stage ( channel 1/2), and adjust voltage output accordingly for all output channels that are enabled. 

Hope that clears this up. 

Nick


----------



## south east customz

Mitsu1grn said:


> The digital input feature will be available in April. Once that is installed, the unit can be configured to use ANY HEAD UNIT FACTORY OR AFTERMARKET as the source for volume control. The way this would work is if you have an aftermarket head unit that has a digital output and analog output that are both constant. You would input interconnect from your headunit into input 1/2 on the DSP. You would also install your S/PDIF into the digital input of the DSP out of same headunit. If both the analog and digital signals are working, then when you turn the volume up or down on your headunit the DSP would see the voltage change via the analog input stage ( channel 1/2), and adjust voltage output accordingly for all output channels that are enabled.
> 
> Hope that clears this up.
> 
> Nick


Is it a firmware that can be added later?  I'm itching to get one for SBN


----------



## Mitsu1grn

The digital input will not be available till April. That is what we were told at CES by Henning himself.

Nick


----------



## shiny_car

It looks a good processor.

Any news on Alpine Ai-NET compatibility?


----------



## ErinH

interesting..

hey, turn the board over and take a picture.


----------



## cobb2819

bikinpunk said:


> interesting..
> 
> hey, turn the board over and take a picture.


I have that pic!! Hahaha


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## basher8621

I hooked my 6to8 up today. I love it so far.


----------



## Coppertone

basher8621 said:


> I hooked my 6to8 up today. I love it so far.


May I inquire as to where you purchased yours from?


----------



## ErinH

a few questions that I'm not sure were answered...

what is the Q adjustable within? 0-10? 1-5? ... 

Can someone provide me a link to download the software to play with it? I'm not seeing it available on the website.

Thanks,
Erin


----------



## simplicityinsound

Erin i hit you up on FB


----------



## ErinH

sweet! got it. Thanks, Bing.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Mitsu1grn said:


> The digital input feature will be available in April. Once that is installed, the unit can be configured to use ANY HEAD UNIT FACTORY OR AFTERMARKET as the source for volume control. The way this would work is if you have an aftermarket head unit that has a digital output and analog output that are both constant. You would input interconnect from your headunit into input 1/2 on the DSP. You would also install your S/PDIF into the digital input of the DSP out of same headunit. If both the analog and digital signals are working, then when you turn the volume up or down on your headunit the DSP would see the voltage change via the analog input stage ( channel 1/2), and adjust voltage output accordingly for all output channels that are enabled.
> 
> Hope that clears this up.
> 
> Nick


This is just freaking awesome. I don't think people realize this feature's true potential. Here's a little hint.



t3sn4f2 said:


> HRT HDMI Streamer | Stereophile.com
> 
> Just noticed this new device HRT Tech is coming out with. This might be a car audio friendly all in one package for that setup you all here me talk about once in a while.
> 
> *It involves using a compatible iDevice with Apple's Digital AV adapter. Which is basically a dongle with an HDMI and USB port. What this gives you is the option to, in some component combinations, control and display the idevice on an aftermarket/OEM head unit. While at the same time having a parallel digital HMDI output to a high quality DAC (ie the HDMI streamer). *
> *This setup is best for processors/crossovers/EQ that don't have digital inputs (ie MS-8). Those with digital inputs would be better served with what is known as an "HDMI to S/PDIF extractor".*From what I've read this device should have the same analog output quality as their "Music Streamer II". And since it is an all in one box, you can eliminate any jitter worries from the other component combinations of iDevice AV adapter+external spdif extractor+sdpif DAC. Plus it should have a good power input stage since all that is needed to run them in a car audio environment is one of their low priced 12volt to USB power supplies.
> 
> And it should work with the Flac player app and its high resolution file option.
> 
> View attachment 34237



One question, does the 6to8 switch over to analog input when it sees that the digital input and analog input aren't coming from the same playing source? Say for instance if you change from CD source on your head unit, which goes out digital and analog, to FM which is only sent out via analog.


----------



## ErinH

Wow, Bing... I wish you had smacked me with this earlier...
Some awesome specs on these things.


Q of 0.25 - 40.
Typed in crossover points
Typed in paragraphic. adjustable levels of 0.1dB. sweet!
t/a in 0.02ms which is good enough. (the ps8 will boast 0.01ms, iirc) 
Wish it had variable phase control like the Helix units (though helix only has variable phase on the sub channels and they cannot only be used for subs or midbasses since the LPF is max'd at 500hz, iirc).
Level adjustments in 0.5dB. Wish it were finer here; something like 0.25dB would be nice to finely balance something but it'll do. Helix units only do 1dB attenuation for eq and levels. That's not good enough for me.

One issue I have with the software is that with the paragraphic, it's slow to respond. 
another issue is that the frequency chart doesn't really work well. If I make changes, it doesn't seem to replicate them. I tried to make a bandpass by using a HPF & LPF and it only showed the first option I chose (HPF @ 60hz). Seems like a bug. 

Overall, I'm pretty dang impressed.


----------



## Rupinder

bikinpunk said:


> Wow, Bing... I wish you had smacked me with this earlier...
> Some awesome specs on these things.
> 
> 
> Q of 0.25 - 40.
> Typed in crossover points
> Typed in paragraphic. adjustable levels of 0.1dB. sweet!
> t/a in 0.02ms which is good enough. (the ps8 will boast 0.01ms, iirc)
> Wish it had variable phase control like the Helix units (though helix only has variable phase on the sub channels and they cannot only be used for subs or midbasses since the LPF is max'd at 500hz, iirc).
> Level adjustments in 0.5dB. Wish it were finer here; something like 0.25dB would be nice to finely balance something but it'll do. Helix units only do 1dB attenuation for eq and levels. That's not good enough for me.
> 
> One issue I have with the software is that with the paragraphic, it's slow to respond.
> another issue is that the frequency chart doesn't really work well. If I make changes, it doesn't seem to replicate them. I tried to make a bandpass by using a HPF & LPF and it only showed the first option I chose (HPF @ 60hz). Seems like a bug.
> 
> Overall, I'm pretty dang impressed.


so erin out or mosconi and helix pdsp which would you prefer considering the usability and price difference.the mosconi is pricier than helix in my country by about 200 dollars.


----------



## brett.b10

do we have a review of this yet ?


----------



## BigRed

I noticed when changing a specific frequency on one channel, it changed it on the other. Does it have an unlink feature. This is what i disliked most about the bit1


----------



## ErinH

BigRed said:


> I noticed when changing a specific frequency on one channel, it changed it on the other. Does it have an unlink feature. This is what i disliked most about the bit1


I didn't notice this. If you use the + and - buttons it links them but if you use the slider for the EQ it only changes one.


----------



## bertholomey

^^ That is what I noticed as well playing with the software.


----------



## ErinH

Tell Mark I said what's up!


----------



## bbfoto

t3sn4f2 said:


> One question, does the 6to8 switch over to analog input when it sees that the digital input and analog input aren't coming from the same playing source? Say for instance if you change from CD source on your head unit, which goes out digital and analog, to FM which is only sent out via analog.


Good question, Frank. Especially since IIRC, there will be at least 2 Toslink Digital inputs to switch between on the 6-to-8's digital input module. I want to have my DEX-P9's output going into one of these inputs and the digital out from my Android Galaxy Note going into the other. Maybe we can just use a single separate pot to control volume as on the Helix units?

Frank, as a side note, this is one reason that I keep going back to the damn DEX-P9 Head Unit on my installs where I want to include an AM/FM/CD HU along with a digital output-capable PMP...the P9 transfers the Tuner output via S/PDIF as well. As a stand-alone AM/FM/CD source unit, I prefer the Sony CDX-C90, but its Tuner's signal goes over analog. 

Erin, I'm right there with you regarding the limitations of 1dB level adjustments.  There are many times when tuning that I've felt that 0.5dB was not quite fine enough. Seems downright crazy/impossible that our ears would be that sensitive, but that's been my experience. I'm okay with 0.5dB steps...it's workable, but 0.25bB steps would be icing...

The T-A/Delay "Grouping" is another feature I'm looking forward to. And yeah, I wish the 6-to-8 would have the completely-variable phase adjustments of the Helix units, even if it is just limited to the sub and midbass range.

I'd also love to have full control of the 6-to-8 via the Bluetooth dongle (see Bing's recent Miata install) and an Android tablet app.
...hint, hint, Mosconi! I'll pay extra for that!


----------



## killahsharksjc

Anybody know how or where to get the android app?? It says on the pdf. that its with the software... its not included with the software I got..


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

We were told at CES by Henning himself that we should see the app for Android by April. That is the last we have heard about it but I will ask Henning of that time frame has changes and post back here ASAP.

Nick


----------



## killahsharksjc

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> We were told at CES by Henning himself that we should see the app for Android by April. That is the last we have heard about it but I will ask Henning of that time frame has changes and post back here ASAP.
> 
> Nick


Thank you....


----------



## ErinH

shiny_car said:


> It looks a good processor.
> 
> Any news on Alpine Ai-NET compatibility?


Yep... I'm gonna bump this. It has me very curious.


----------



## killahsharksjc

I've had the 6to8 installed and running for about a week now.. .. At first the software I got was a little glitchy.. The frequency chart didnt work.. the videos didnt work, the desktop icon didnt work and the program was missing in *All Programs* I had to open it in the program files on my c;/drive.. Then i got the right software and everything worked perfect.. I also have the Bluetooth device and i love that I can connect to the 6to8 without any wires for tuning.. The bluetooth App that said was with the software wasnt with the software.. After I got it I couldnt get it to discover the 6to8.. After hours of searching the internet for clues i found a fix for the issue... I had to download a App called Bluetooth Class Zero... This application enables discovery and pairing with bluetooth devices that report their Class of Device (CoD) code as 0x00 (zero). Currently there is a bug in the Broadcom bluetooth stack that, for some reason, intentionally skips discovery of all such devices.... After that the phone discovered the 6t08 and i was able to use the 6to8 App to partially control the device... Eveything works perfect as it should now.. Its a great unit... It sounds amazing out the box... I still need more time for some tuning.. but so far so good... I came from a Imprint to a DSP6 to the 6to8... I really liked the DSP6 but now that I got the 6to8 theres no turning back..


----------



## ErinH

I noticed the same issues with the software I'm using. Which version do you have?

Thanks for the tip on the bt. Much appreciated. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## E30 Racer

What's the street/MSRP of the 6to8 in the US. I've seen them for about $650 in Germany, not much here.


----------



## nepl29

E30 Racer said:


> What's the street/MSRP of the 6to8 in the US. I've seen them for about $650 in Germany, not much here.


Msrp is $799.


----------



## killahsharksjc

bikinpunk said:


> I noticed the same issues with the software I'm using. Which version do you have?
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the bt. Much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


The latest and greatest... 

GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

I am currently working with software version 71 and will report back here later on today with what I find. I can tell you that a mute function fro each individual output channel has been added in the level setting part of the software. 

I will be checking the chart to make sure that it works on all functions and also to see how fast the EQ and phase work.

I have the Android App but I dont have a droid phone so I will defer to one of you fine folks to let me know how the App works. It can be downloaded vi the link to the Gladen website listed above this post. 

Thank you for your patience and for your help with the 6 to 8! It is appreciated!!

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi America


----------



## ErinH

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> I am currently working with software version 71 and will report back here later on today with what I find. I can tell you that a mute function fro each individual output channel has been added in the level setting part of the software.


I'm glad you guys are adding this. I didn't catch that it's not already there because I'm waiting on mine to arrive but that's a feature I would have sorely missed when I started tuning. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


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## bertholomey

I saw the functionality of the Android app on a friend's phone last weekend. The preset selectors worked just fine. The Master Volume and Sub Level Control sliders worked, but the up / down arrows did not (I'm not sure if those are intended to be active bottons or just indicators). 

We really didn't see much going on with the input analyzer app... but that was with the older version of the software... maybe it is functioning now.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

I asked for that function to be added last week, and voila! Really impressed with how fast this was added!!! The folks in Germany are very Pro-Active in making this piece the best that they can!

Nick


----------



## ErinH

Any chance for iPhone support?


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Iphone support is a ways off. IPhone or IPad interface is very expensive to design into the system. Lots and lots of hoops to jump through to make Apple happy, including licensing. I personally don't think we will see an Apple app anytime soon. I hope I am wrong! I have an IPhone!! LOL!!


----------



## basher8621

Just downloaded the android app. I am going to go try it soon.


----------



## kool22

Warning with this DSP. I could test it with a German dealer.

The Mosconi DSP is not accurate with the cut off frequency and the time delay. 

I suggest you the Alpine Pxa-h800 or waiting for the rf 3sixty.3.

In Europe it's not a High End DSP. It costs 350 Euro.

Warning with Mosconi Brand. 

For a example a friend got this amplifier 

Mosconi - AS200.2

he is not stable a 2 ohm bridge. 

Target Powers: 200 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm
320 Watt per channel @ 2 Ohm
640 Watt BTL mode @ 4 Ohm
1000 Watt BTL mode @ 2 Ohm

It 's fake. 

Mosconi speak a lot about his Iasca Trophy but A lot of brand got Iasca Trophy.

For me in sound quality, A Rockford Fosgate Power or a Jlaudio Hd is better as Mosconi.


----------



## killahsharksjc

basher8621 said:


> Just downloaded the android app. I am going to go try it soon.



Did it work???? Did your android discover the 6to8???


----------



## basher8621

Just finished messing with the andriod app. Very easy to use and very quick response. When I hit connect it was almost instant.


----------



## ErinH

kool22 said:


> Warning with this DSP. I could test it with a German dealer.
> 
> The Mosconi DSP is not accurate with the cut off frequency and the time delay.
> It's fake


Bold claim. 

Proof?




Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## basher8621

Extremely Bold! I would like to see the proof as well.


----------



## estione

Alpine Ai-NET compatibility anyone know yet?


----------



## ErinH

estione said:


> Alpine Ai-NET compatibility anyone know yet?


I'm still looking forward to info as well. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## estione

It would be AWESOME if it is leased:leased:


----------



## cobb2819

iOS support I think is one of the most important things to look towards. A full fledged iPad app for programming via Bluetooth control would literally make this unstoppable. Plus pairing the 6to8 with an iBox with iPad support would be amazing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

I have spent the better part of the last two hours checking the high pass/band pass/lowpass function of the 6 to 8. Be it Linkwitx-Reilly to Butterworth to Bessel it all works as advertised.

I set up a near field experiment using my RTA/Mic ( True RTA , Tascam Mk144 pre amp, DBX mic), and my home speakers, ( Custom built using Triangle 7 inch midrange/Bass and Cabasse Dom4 utilizing Diaural crossover). Cabinet is ported and tuned to -3db at 55hz. 

Set up the mic at 12 inches away from the cabinets and ran full range pink noise into them. Tested each filter as advertised on the DSP and I found no anomalies in the filters. I would appreciate it if those of you who have a 6 to 8 to please check the filters and make sure they are working please. We at Orca and the folks at Mosconi want to be sure that there is not a problem with the firmware or software.

As to the delay filters I can say they work equally as well as the crossovers do on my unit. I delayed channel 1 output up to a full 5 ms and it worked just fine. Screwed up my whole system, thank you very much! Set the left back to zero and then did channel 2 the same way and it duplicated channel 1.

So, mine is working as advertised. If anyone has any of these or any other problems please let me or Duane at Orca know ASAP. Duane is in constant contact each day with the lead engineer on this unit and he will do his best to fix any problems that may be encountered.

Thanks guys for the support!!

Nick Wingate 
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Gladen Audio-Mosconi America


----------



## bertholomey

Thanks Nick! 

The 3 units I saw in operation last weekend worked as advertised as well. Crossovers / TA / EQ - worked brilliantly.


----------



## ErinH

I'll be running mine through the gamut when I get it. Bench tested with the scope and some signal analysis programs. But, when I see people make a claim without any evidence it's aggravating to those of us who out in time to post true data and analysis. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## Neil_J

Are there any THD/intermod distortion, or S/N ratio specs available for the 6to8?


----------



## Neil_J

Rupinder said:


> presenting the dsp 6 to8 brochure


Lol @ Page 14: "Many customers cannot listen clipping or make stupid settings" -- I love a company that tells it like it is


----------



## bertholomey

Reminds me of a portion of a review I recently read from about an Italian amplifier (S.A.P.):



> In typical Italian fashion, when asking for specification for this article i was provided the following:
> 
> "The amplifier in your hand is the S.A.P. New Anniversary integrated amplifier.
> 
> 1.- On the purpose we do not disclose many technical information. For instance we do not declare the output power (!). This is because we do not believe it is of technical relevance for the user. In any case the amplifier has high output current and the spec is that "it can drive the most of existing loudspeakers systems at sensible level of SPL without matching (or impedance) problem".
> 
> What i find most endearing is how the Italians find so many joys in life. They simply state "Hey, here is our amplifier and we do not really care about stating output wattage as it should be enough for you. We use top quality parts chosen through careful listening so simply enjoy the music." No techno-babble, no snake oil, no Super-Hyper Ultra-Pure Unobtanium only made at nights during a full moon by Vestal virgins. Longtime audiophools have had enough Marketing Hyperbole thrust upon us to last three lifetimes! Some of it may be true, some of it is laden with half-truths, and some of it is (frankly) male cow anal excrement.


----------



## Neil_J

bertholomey said:


> Reminds me of a portion of a review I recently read from about an Italian amplifier (S.A.P.):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In typical Italian fashion, when asking for specification for this article i was provided the following:
> 
> "The amplifier in your hand is the S.A.P. New Anniversary integrated amplifier.
> 
> 1.- On the purpose we do not disclose many technical information. For instance we do not declare the output power (!). This is because we do not believe it is of technical relevance for the user. In any case the amplifier has high output current and the spec is that "it can drive the most of existing loudspeakers systems at sensible level of SPL without matching (or impedance) problem".
> 
> What i find most endearing is how the Italians find so many joys in life. They simply state "Hey, here is our amplifier and we do not really care about stating output wattage as it should be enough for you. We use top quality parts chosen through careful listening so simply enjoy the music." No techno-babble, no snake oil, no Super-Hyper Ultra-Pure Unobtanium only made at nights during a full moon by Vestal virgins. Longtime audiophools have had enough Marketing Hyperbole thrust upon us to last three lifetimes! Some of it may be true, some of it is laden with half-truths, and some of it is (frankly) male cow anal excrement.
Click to expand...

I get what you're saying, but:


The thing was designed in Germany where they do care about those sort of things
Mosconi already released a 14-page presentation that already gave up a lot of specs and left little to the imagination
S/N ratio, THD, and IMD are not snake oil type features, and definitely not marketing hyperbole. This is basic basic EE 101 stuff that serves a real purpose. Anyone who says otherwise is either hiding something, or really damn cocky about a good product (but how the hell will anyone know which one??)
Italians may not like specs, but this is DIYMA. Can anyone that owns one measure one of these? bikin? Or, can someone let me borrow one, and I'll measure it?


----------



## bertholomey

I wasn't making a statement that measurements weren't needed. I just thought it humerous that there was similarities between the stayements made by two Italian authors of brochures. I'm looking forward to seeing some real data on this piece of equipment.


----------



## Neil_J

bertholomey said:


> I wasn't making a statement that measurements weren't needed. I just thought it humerous that there was similarities between the stayements made by two Italian authors of brochures. I'm looking forward to seeing some real data on this piece of equipment.


Yea, sorry, my frustration is directed towards Mosconi, not you 

I heard at least two cars at SBN with 6to8's and they didn't sound bad. I'm swapping DSP's and this thing has me intrigued, but information is very scarce. It's also by far the smallest 8ch dsp and for me and my limited trunk space, so that means a lot. Where are people buying these things from, and for how much?


----------



## strakele

I don't remember the numbers, but I do know that the thing was ready months and months ago and sounded great, but they went back and tweaked it more purely to make it measure better spec-wise than any other out there.


----------



## Coppertone

I so hope that what you are saying is true lol.


----------



## IBcivic

kool22 said:


> Warning with this DSP. I could test it with a German dealer.
> 
> The Mosconi DSP is not accurate with the cut off frequency and the time delay.
> 
> I suggest you the Alpine Pxa-h800 or waiting for the rf 3sixty.3.
> 
> In Europe it's not a High End DSP. It costs 350 Euro.
> 
> Warning with Mosconi Brand.
> 
> For a example a friend got this amplifier
> 
> Mosconi - AS200.2
> 
> he is not stable a 2 ohm bridge.
> 
> Target Powers: 200 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm
> 320 Watt per channel @ 2 Ohm
> 640 Watt BTL mode @ 4 Ohm
> 1000 Watt BTL mode @ 2 Ohm
> 
> It 's fake.
> 
> Mosconi speak a lot about his Iasca Trophy but A lot of brand got Iasca Trophy.
> 
> For me in sound quality, A Rockford Fosgate Power or a Jlaudio Hd is better as Mosconi.


----------



## stuckinok

I broke down and ordered one today.


----------



## Coppertone

From, please share.


----------



## cobb2819

Coppertone said:


> From, please share.


Me


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Coppertone

Ahhhh, must be very very nice to be able to order like that. I hope that it is everything that you want and then some.


----------



## cobb2819

Coppertone said:


> Ahhhh, must be very very nice to be able to order like that. I hope that it is everything that you want and then some.


We are getting ours at the same time. He will be running 3 way plus sub full active with a kdcx995 and the 6to8 will be for time alignment, phase, and eq. 

Mine will be 2 way plus sub full active with a McIntosh double din, and the 6to8 is for crossovers, output voltage, and some eq correction. We are going to be able to show benefits of the 6to8 in both applications. 


Sent from my iPhone


----------



## Coppertone

I cant wait to see both of these applications applied.


----------



## cobb2819

Coppertone said:


> I cant wait to see both of these applications applied.


Neither can I!! I've got another one going into an install next week that is being used for oem integration to run a 2way active plus sub setup. I'm sure we will keep you up to date on everything.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Coppertone

Mine should be here by next week, and then my MS8 will go up for sale.


----------



## stuckinok

I can't freakin wait....


----------



## EternalGraphics808

Nick,

Just curious about the internals of the 6to8.. Trying to FINALLY set this up, and was wondering about the different channels. 1/2 has 30 bands, vs 3/4 at 25, 5/6 etc etc.. 
As far as quality goes, is ch 1/2 better than say 7/8? 
Trying to figure out if I should put a speaker to a specific channel. 
IE tweeter 3/4 mid 1/2 midbass 5/6 sub 7/8?


----------



## cruzinbill

seems ok but.... its still only 8 damn channels!!!! why oh why will someone not release a 10 or 12 channel. With the pricing and specs... seems like they were aiming to compete with the bitone. They may have a product with what some people would consider and edge on it, but to me in reality its nothing new to push the market forward.


----------



## Neil_J

cruzinbill said:


> seems ok but.... its still only 8 damn channels!!!! why oh why will someone not release a 10 or 12 channel. With the pricing and specs... seems like they were aiming to compete with the bitone. They may have a product with what some people would consider and edge on it, but to me in reality its nothing new to push the market forward.


Easy answer: the 6to8 uses a single Burr Brown / Texas Instruments multichannel dac / adc that has (from memory) 6 channels in and 8 channels out. Plus, the DSP performance would have to increase quite a bit to handle more channels. If you need 12 in / 16 out, but a second 6to8  or if you just need a few more, buy a MiniDSP for your subs and midbasses, use the 6to8 for everything else.


----------



## basher8621

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Nick,
> 
> Just curious about the internals of the 6to8.. Trying to FINALLY set this up, and was wondering about the different channels. 1/2 has 30 bands, vs 3/4 at 25, 5/6 etc etc..
> As far as quality goes, is ch 1/2 better than say 7/8?
> Trying to figure out if I should put a speaker to a specific channel.
> IE tweeter 3/4 mid 1/2 midbass 5/6 sub 7/8?


I dont think the quality is any better on any of the channels. This is how I have mine. 

1/2 - Midrange
3/4 - Midbass
5/6 - Tweeter
7/8 - Subs


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Basher has the right idea, in my opinion. Since imaging cues take place from 150hz to 3khz, you would want the greatest flexibility in those frequencies. Having channels 1/2 play midrange and 3/4 play bass would do just that. From left and right EQ to flexibility in Xover design. That is what I have been suggesting to people I have trained on this piece. As far as better sound, each channel of output is the same. What I see with the configuration I am recommending is maximum tuning capability.


----------



## cruzinbill

Neil_J said:


> Easy answer: the 6to8 uses a single Burr Brown / Texas Instruments multichannel dac / adc that has (from memory) 6 channels in and 8 channels out. Plus, the DSP performance would have to increase quite a bit to handle more channels. If you need 12 in / 16 out, but a second 6to8  or if you just need a few more, buy a MiniDSP for your subs and midbasses, use the 6to8 for everything else.


Well that is kinda my point, it doesnt bring anything new to the table that bitone or others doesnt already do IMO. The big problem with all the DSP's on the market is that you still cant do 3way front active with rear speakers and subs. It just seems that if it was me making this I would thought outside the box a bit and really put something out there that made the competition sweat.


----------



## simplicityinsound

having used virtually every computer controlled DSP on the market (except the helix ones), i will say this about what i find to be advantages of the 6to8. 

again, this is from memory so if i am wrong on something, please point this out:

1. small size, makes it easy to mount anywhere.

2. input EQ. i found this quite useful, it allows you to eq abnormalities in the frequency response of your headunit, espeically good for OEM headunits. i basically plug my rta into the output rcas of the 6to8, play pink noise, and see what the curves is like, if its flat, all good, if its not, i can use the input eq to make it flat, this way i know i am starting off with a flat signal.

3. input mixing, you can select any of the pairs of inputs 1/2 3/4 5/6 to mix anywhere from 0 to 100 percent into any of the outputs 1-8. this can be used to sum things precisely to make a single flat signal, and verify it on the rta, instead of relying on autosumming. coupled with the input eq, you can achieve a nice signal from any signal source.

4. the 31 band PARA-GRAPHIC eq is very nice, its in essense a 31 band parametric eq with 1hz steps (on mid and tweeter), and i think 13-15bands on woofer and umm7? on sub?(too lazy to power up the laptop) you can type in your own center frequeny, wide variance for Q, and you can also make tiny .1db adjustments. this is the most detailed and capable eq system i have yet to experience, keeping in mind that i love the zapco systems before and it essentially have a similar program but with only 10 bands on evey channel and a smaller Q adjustment. also way more capable of course than any straight 31 band graphic eqs. this to me is key, surprised this hasnt been mentioned before?

5. when the optical dongle comes out, it will have the ability to accept optical signal, and then you can still hook up your headunits SPEAKER level output to the rca inputs, and those inputs acts PURELY as a volume control, so the obvious advantage here is, you wont need an upfront controller to accept optical input and retain master volume control. you can still use tehe good ole volume knob/button on your headunit.

6. the BT capabiltiy is nice so i dont have to run a long usb cable.

7. tons of other features on time alignment, phase, xover, etc that is on par with any other processor out there.

8. auto protection circuit will mute it if you clip it hard, this prevents novices frmo blowing things up.

there are things i would like to improve on it, but 99 percent is on the software GUI front.

b


----------



## t3sn4f2

simplicityinsound said:


> 5. when the optical dongle comes out, it will have the ability to accept optical signal, and then you can still hook up your headunits SPEAKER level output to the rca inputs, and those inputs acts PURELY as a volume control, so the obvious advantage here is, you wont need an upfront controller to accept optical input and retain master volume control. you can still use tehe good ole volume knob/button on your headunit.


From my understanding of how it works, you will still need to send the head unit the same signal that is going digitally into the 6to8. Then the head unit will do volume control on that selected parallel output source and the 6to8 will compare intensity differences between the analog in from the head unit and the fixed level digital in. 

This of course means that whatever digital source you use has to have a simultaneous analog output and digital output. If we assume that the majority of people are going to use this with a high capacity portable player that has the ability to output digitally, then one option is to use an idevice with a digital ipod dock that comes with its own DAC as well as the digital out. The analog out will go into the head unit's AUX in and onto the 6to8 and the digital out will go straight into the 6to8. This is a great foolproof way of doing it but you loose the option to control the device from the head unit.

The other option is less established and is completely dependent on the idevice and head unit. It involves using an apple digital av adapter which has a parallel hdmi and usb I/O. The usb goes into the head unit for signal, control and display purposes and the hdmi goes to an hdmi to spdif extractor and onto the 6to8. If everything works properly then you get to have idevice integration plus the quality digital input source all while only needing the head unit volume control for ALL sources.

Both of the above options are GREAT! for lower end car models that typically have oem head units that can't be swapped out for one reason or the other, and have only highly eq'd, noisier, clipping speaker level outputs. Yet tend to come with AUX in or idevice integration.

One thing I have questions about is what happens when there is an interruption in the head unit output that is not going to be there in the parallel digital input. Say from a handsfree call interruption or head unit tone alert. Will it ignore that somehow?


----------



## simplicityinsound

t3sn4f2 said:


> From my understanding of how it works, you will still need to send the head unit the same signal that is going digitally into the 6to8. Then the head unit will do volume control on that selected parallel output source and the 6to8 will compare intensity differences between the analog in from the head unit and the fixed level digital in.
> 
> This of course means that whatever digital source you use has to have a simultaneous analog output and digital output. If we assume that the majority of people are going to use this with a high capacity portable player that has the ability to output digitally, then one option is to use an idevice with a digital ipod dock that comes with its own DAC as well as the digital out. The analog out will go into the head unit's AUX in and onto the 6to8 and the digital out will go straight into the 6to8. This is a great foolproof way of doing it but you loose the option to control the device from the head unit.
> 
> The other option is less established and is completely dependent on the idevice and head unit. It involves using an apple digital av adapter which has a parallel hdmi and usb I/O. The usb goes into the head unit for signal, control and display purposes and the hdmi goes to an hdmi to spdif extractor and onto the 6to8. If everything works properly then you get to have idevice integration plus the quality digital input source all while only needing the head unit volume control for ALL sources.
> 
> Both of the above options are GREAT! for lower end car models that typically have oem head units that can't be swapped out for one reason or the other, and have only highly eq'd, noisier, clipping speaker level outputs. Yet tend to come with AUX in or idevice integration.
> 
> One thing I have questions about is what happens when there is an interruption in the head unit output that is not going to be there in the parallel digital input. Say from a handsfree call interruption or head unit tone alert. Will it ignore that somehow?


good points, the last of which we will see when it comes out  but it is an extra option that isnt present on other dsps, even if it works for a very small group of products.

if the way i unstand it, can you use say a mobridge to go optical into it, toslink y adapter so it still feeds the stock amp, and use the stock amp's speaker level signal as volume?


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## Neil_J

Any update on the remote display?? Any details or list of what can be controlled/accessed? All I've seen so far is the computer rendered picture on the Mosconi site.


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## t3sn4f2

simplicityinsound said:


> good points, the last of which we will see when it comes out  but it is an extra option that isnt present on other dsps, even if it works for a very small group of products.
> 
> *if the way i unstand it, can you use say a mobridge to go optical into it, toslink y adapter so it still feeds the stock amp, and use the stock amp's speaker level signal as volume?*


That way would seem to work also, but isn't the mobridge device a digital preamp which has a variable digital output? If so, you would not need to 6to8 feature. Just send it the digital out and keep the 6to8 on digital input only.


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## oilman

Subscribe


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## EternalGraphics808

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> Basher has the right idea, in my opinion. Since imaging cues take place from 150hz to 3khz, you would want the greatest flexibility in those frequencies. Having channels 1/2 play midrange and 3/4 play bass would do just that. From left and right EQ to flexibility in Xover design. That is what I have been suggesting to people I have trained on this piece. As far as better sound, each channel of output is the same. What I see with the configuration I am recommending is maximum tuning capability.


Thanks Basher and Nick.
Mainly I was asking since I think the bitone has BB in channels 1/2 and then cheaper in the rest. Or something like that.
Anyhow. Thanks for the input. I'll set mine up this way. 

Oh and Nick... Any news on the optical add on coming out? Any eta?


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## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

ETA on the Digital input is this month. That is the last word we got from Europe a few weeds ago. Same for the controller, this month. If something changes Ill let everyone here know.

Nick


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## Neil_J

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> ETA on the Digital input is this month. That is the last word we got from Europe a few weeds ago. Same for the controller, this month. If something changes Ill let everyone here know.
> 
> Nick


Let me know if you come across any pictures. The only one I've seen looks to be computer-rendered. Also a list of what features can be controlled, would be nice.


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## cruzinbill

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Thanks Basher and Nick.
> Mainly I was asking since I think the bitone has BB in channels 1/2 and then cheaper in the rest. Or something like that.
> Anyhow. Thanks for the input. I'll set mine up this way.
> 
> Oh and Nick... Any news on the optical add on coming out? Any eta?


I dont get what your saying I guess. Are you saying that for the output channels that the crossovers of ch 1-2 are BurrBrown and 3-8 are somthing else? If thats the case then you are mistaken, ch 1-8 you are able to choose burrbrown or linkwitz.


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## simplicityinsound

cruzinbill said:


> I dont get what your saying I guess. Are you saying that for the output channels that the crossovers of ch 1-2 are BurrBrown and 3-8 are somthing else? If thats the case then you are mistaken, ch 1-8 you are able to choose burrbrown or linkwitz.


now i'm confused...what do you mean choose burrbrown or linkwitz?


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## cruzinbill

simplicityinsound said:


> now i'm confused...what do you mean choose burrbrown or linkwitz?


As in you can use one or the other, basicly here is a rough run down..... at the top you choose your type which is BB or LW, then you choose your curve then you choose what db.. so you could have

BB, Hi pass, 10k, 48db
or
LW, Bandpass,500, 5k, 24db

If I were @ home I would just take a screenshot for you.


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## IBcivic

APPLES to MOON-ROCKS...
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Burr-Brown Corporation was a United States technology company in Tucson, Arizona, which designed, manufactured, and marketed a broad line of proprietary, standard, high-performance, analog and mixed-signal integrated circuits (ICs) used in electronic signal processing. The company's products were used in a wide range of applications: industrial process and control, telecommunications, test and measurement, medical and scientific instrumentation, medical imaging, digital audio and video, personal computing and multimedia.

In September 2000, Texas Instruments acquired the company for $7.6 billion.

Again from Wiki:
A Linkwitz–Riley (L-R) filter is an infinite impulse response filter used in Linkwitz–Riley audio crossovers, named after its inventors Siegfried Linkwitz and Russ Riley, which was originally described in Passive Crossover Networks for Noncoincident Drivers in JAES Volume 26 Number 3 pp. 149-150; March 1978. It is also known as a Butterworth squared filter. An L-R crossover consists of a parallel combination of a low-pass and a high-pass L-R filter. The filters are usually designed by cascading two Butterworth filters, each of which has −3 dB gain at the cut-off frequency. The resulting Linkwitz–Riley filter has a −6 dB gain at the cutoff frequency. This means that summing the low-pass and high-pass outputs, the gain at the crossover frequency will be 0 dB, so the crossover behaves like an all-pass filter, having a flat amplitude response with a smoothly changing phase response. This is the biggest advantage of L-R crossovers compared to Butterworth crossovers, whose summed output has a +3 dB peak around the crossover frequency. Since cascading two nth order Butterworth filters will give a 2nth order Linkwitz–Riley filter, theoretically any 2nth order Linkwitz–Riley crossover can be designed. However, crossovers of higher order than 4th may have less usability due to their increasing peak in group delay around crossover frequency and complexity.


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## cruzinbill

IBcivic said:


> APPLES to MOON-ROCKS...
> From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> The Burr-Brown Corporation was a United States technology company in Tucson, Arizona, which designed, manufactured, and marketed a broad line of proprietary, standard, high-performance, analog and mixed-signal integrated circuits (ICs) used in electronic signal processing. The company's products were used in a wide range of applications: industrial process and control, telecommunications, test and measurement, medical and scientific instrumentation, medical imaging, digital audio and video, personal computing and multimedia.
> 
> In September 2000, Texas Instruments acquired the company for $7.6 billion.
> 
> Again from Wiki:
> A Linkwitz–Riley (L-R) filter is an infinite impulse response filter used in Linkwitz–Riley audio crossovers, named after its inventors Siegfried Linkwitz and Russ Riley, which was originally described in Passive Crossover Networks for Noncoincident Drivers in JAES Volume 26 Number 3 pp. 149-150; March 1978. It is also known as a Butterworth squared filter. An L-R crossover consists of a parallel combination of a low-pass and a high-pass L-R filter. The filters are usually designed by cascading two Butterworth filters, each of which has −3 dB gain at the cut-off frequency. The resulting Linkwitz–Riley filter has a −6 dB gain at the cutoff frequency. This means that summing the low-pass and high-pass outputs, the gain at the crossover frequency will be 0 dB, so the crossover behaves like an all-pass filter, having a flat amplitude response with a smoothly changing phase response. This is the biggest advantage of L-R crossovers compared to Butterworth crossovers, whose summed output has a +3 dB peak around the crossover frequency. Since cascading two nth order Butterworth filters will give a 2nth order Linkwitz–Riley filter, theoretically any 2nth order Linkwitz–Riley crossover can be designed. However, crossovers of higher order than 4th may have less usability due to their increasing peak in group delay around crossover frequency and complexity.


oops.... ya i was thinking butterworth.... not BB, i will contribute this one to a late night and too much nyquil. I guess thats why I was confused when I first read it, and why you were confused when I posted the reply. 

On that note, I will look into the whole only having BB on ch1-2, Im curious to know if this is true.


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## Neil_J

Burr-Brown or Linkwitz ... LOL  :laugh:

Mine's been ordered and is on the way hopefully.. fingers crossed.


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## Shadowmarx

Subscribe


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## ErinH

mine should be arriving today. i'll toss it on the bench for some quick measurements and post them up when I get some time.


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## Neil_J

bikinpunk said:


> mine should be arriving today. i'll toss it on the bench for some quick measurements and post them up when I get some time.


Awesome! Can't wait!


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## ErinH

there are a lot of things that look promising but the last time I checked the software GUI there were some issues. Namely response time and the FR graph didn't update throughout (IOW, it showed the first change but as you continued to make changes, the graph didn't change with the new settings). I don't know exactly what the newest version is, so maybe these have been addressed. Though, Nick said the last update fixed it and I still had the same issues with the FR.

I also ordered the bluetooth dongle and will test that out. 

Quick bench test will probably just be clipping point and if I can single out a specific frequency I can show how harmonics change with volume. Would be a good way to test distortion. 
I won't be installing it for a few weeks, most likely. I just moved and am still unpacking. Truth be told, it may wind up going up for sale if I think I won't be able to use it anytime soon. I ordered it before the house sold and everything in my life has sort of been flipped upside down since then. For the better, though. 


I really dig the shelving filters on this piece. I think that opens the door for some new possibilities (ie: some that want to use a passive crossover can now have the ability to shelve a bandpass so that it can be attenuated or boosted to match the other driver on the same passive network... iow, level matching drivers on the same passive).


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## simplicityinsound

just make sure you keep on getting the latest version of hte software, a new one seems to come out almost weekly.

on one of hte recent versions, they bumped up the gain big time, i think 12 db, this gives more volume adjustment but to me, also increased the noise floor. i would take the output measurement at -12db on all channels, according to the info i got, that would match the 0 db level on the older software.

maybe Nick can chime in a bit more.

b


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## indytrucks

I think I'm in love.


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## ErinH

simplicityinsound said:


> just make sure you keep on getting the latest version of hte software, a new one seems to come out almost weekly.
> 
> on one of hte recent versions, they bumped up the gain big time, i think 12 db, this gives more volume adjustment but to me, also increased the noise floor. i would take the output measurement at -12db on all channels, according to the info i got, that would match the 0 db level on the older software.
> 
> maybe Nick can chime in a bit more.
> 
> b


I wonder if this was a firmware upgrade, then. I had heard there was one recently on new units. 

The support for this thing seems stellar.


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## bertholomey

Can you confirm that V71 is the latest software version?


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## strakele

V71 is not the latest. V72 had the big gain boost. That appears to be the latest version.


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## ErinH

edit: I'm stupid. was looking at the amplifier dsp update.

GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


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## bertholomey

A little confusing...at that link you have the V1.0.86 and the V 1.72 - is one for the One DSP and the other for the 6to8?


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## ErinH

bertholomey said:


> A little confusing...at that link you have the V1.0.86 and the V 1.72 - is one for the One DSP and the other for the 6to8?


yea. had to edit it.


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## ErinH

a couple things I wish they could add/fix:


ability to set a higher crossover slope without adding them together to get desired output
variable phase control (instead of 0/180 degrees)


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## brett.b10

Evening gentlemen,
Could some one review this please.


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## strakele

There is one coming


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## brett.b10

Cheers


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## 1998993C2S

Subscribe.


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## EternalGraphics808

Second on the variable phase instead of set 0-180


I'm still waiting to install mine for the digital input as I'm using the ibox with it


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## ErinH

mine didn't make it today. hopefully will tomorrow.


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## EternalGraphics808

Ah. Sucks. When you're sitting there waiting it always makes time go so much slower


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## cobb2819

I've got 3 at the shop, haha


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ErinH

I'm not really _waiting_. I won't be able to install it for probably a couple weeks and I may wind up selling it anyway. Just wanted to update since I posted earlier I'd try to have some data up tonight and it ain't happenin' now.


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## cruzinbill

Neil_J said:


> Burr-Brown or Linkwitz ... LOL  :laugh:
> 
> Mine's been ordered and is on the way hopefully.. fingers crossed.


Yah....  for some reason butterworth turned into burr brown idk what happened.


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## Z-Roc

would like to see the results


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## Coupon

subscribed.


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## marvnmars

i am thinking about getting one of these.. my big question, where do you get the bluetooth adapter, does it come with it, or can u use a universal? i have no focal dealer in town here and do not want to get hosed on not being able to use the dsp wirelessly if i can not find a bt adapter that is prioperty.


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## strakele

BT is proprietary, does not come with it. Extra cost.


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## Coupon

marvnmars said:


> i am thinking about getting one of these.. my big question, where do you get the bluetooth adapter, does it come with it, or can u use a universal? i have no focal dealer in town here and do not want to get hosed on not being able to use the dsp wirelessly if i can not find a bt adapter that is prioperty.


base on my reading so far, it must use the Mosconi adapter in order to work.


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## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

The Bluetooth adapter is proprietary to Mosconi. You cannot use any other BT adapter with the DSP. 

Nick


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## oca123

i am using a $100 pure i20 dock with a homemade ignition sensing psu and an ipod dock extender cable. it works great. the i20 outputs a very clean spdif signal for my bitone.
i noticed something interesting - with my ipod touch 4 i am able to control volume. my understanding is that the volume is sent along with the full range digital signal and the first dac in line is where this volume parameter is processed. this is an assumption of course... maybe something is terribly wrong with the i20 and i have been a fool.
it gets interesting when i hook up my iphone 3gs. i lose the ability to control volume from the player, and additionally, volume is much much lower (too low in fact)

to stay on topic - i want a new processor to replace my bitone. i have been eyeing the h800 and waiting for the ps8, i wish i could find a helix dsp, and now just today i find out about the 6to8.
detailed specs on this thing are hard to find. how does it compare to the ps8? i guess my other option would be a carpc with studio sound card audiomulch and some good vst plugins...




t3sn4f2 said:


> From my understanding of how it works, you will still need to send the head unit the same signal that is going digitally into the 6to8. Then the head unit will do volume control on that selected parallel output source and the 6to8 will compare intensity differences between the analog in from the head unit and the fixed level digital in.
> 
> This of course means that whatever digital source you use has to have a simultaneous analog output and digital output. If we assume that the majority of people are going to use this with a high capacity portable player that has the ability to output digitally, then one option is to use an idevice with a digital ipod dock that comes with its own DAC as well as the digital out. The analog out will go into the head unit's AUX in and onto the 6to8 and the digital out will go straight into the 6to8. This is a great foolproof way of doing it but you loose the option to control the device from the head unit.
> 
> The other option is less established and is completely dependent on the idevice and head unit. It involves using an apple digital av adapter which has a parallel hdmi and usb I/O. The usb goes into the head unit for signal, control and display purposes and the hdmi goes to an hdmi to spdif extractor and onto the 6to8. If everything works properly then you get to have idevice integration plus the quality digital input source all while only needing the head unit volume control for ALL sources.
> 
> Both of the above options are GREAT! for lower end car models that typically have oem head units that can't be swapped out for one reason or the other, and have only highly eq'd, noisier, clipping speaker level outputs. Yet tend to come with AUX in or idevice integration.
> 
> One thing I have questions about is what happens when there is an interruption in the head unit output that is not going to be there in the parallel digital input. Say from a handsfree call interruption or head unit tone alert. Will it ignore that somehow?


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## Neil_J

oca123 said:


> i am using a $100 pure i20 dock with a homemade ignition sensing psu and an ipod dock extender cable. it works great. the i20 outputs a very clean spdif signal for my bitone.
> i noticed something interesting - with my ipod touch 4 i am able to control volume. my understanding is that the volume is sent along with the full range digital signal and the first dac in line is where this volume parameter is processed. this is an assumption of course... maybe something is terribly wrong with the i20 and i have been a fool.
> it gets interesting when i hook up my iphone 3gs. i lose the ability to control volume from the player, and additionally, volume is much much lower (too low in fact)
> 
> to stay on topic - i want a new processor to replace my bitone. i have been eyeing the h800 and waiting for the ps8, i wish i could find a helix dsp, and now just today i find out about the 6to8.
> detailed specs on this thing are hard to find. how does it compare to the ps8? i guess my other option would be a carpc with studio sound card audiomulch and some good vst plugins...


IMO the PS8 is "batshit, no-compromise, audiophile quality" whereas the 6to8 is just "pretty damn good audiophile quality". 6to8 is the better deal unless you're a serious SQ competetor or have a ton of money to spend, and it's available now.


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## simplicityinsound

Neil_J said:


> IMO the PS8 is "batshit, no-compromise, audiophile quality" whereas the 6to8 is just "pretty damn good audiophile quality". 6to8 is the better deal unless you're a serious SQ competetor or have a ton of money to spend, and it's available now.


how are you justifying this statement? how much personal experiences have you had with both unit to make a qualified assessment?

for my part, having installed 4 6ot8s, in terms of tuning and sound quality, its excellent, on par with any processor i have used in the past.

i am eagerly awaiting the ps8, but until i get my hands on one to play with, i cannot and will not make any comparisons between the two.

all i know for now is the 6to8 has more tuning ability than any other processor i have used, is dead quiet interm of noise, no turn on or turn off pop, and the end result is quite excellent. i hope the ps8 is the same.

and being that the two processors carry virtually identical price points...i think my hopes is that they are comparable in performance, with a lil give or take here and there...

unless you know something I am not aware of?


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## Neil_J

simplicityinsound said:


> how are you justifying this statement? how much personal experiences have you had with both unit to make a qualified assessment?
> 
> for my part, having installed 4 6ot8s, in terms of tuning and sound quality, its excellent, on par with any processor i have used in the past.
> 
> i am eagerly awaiting the ps8, but until i get my hands on one to play with, i cannot and will not make any comparisons between the two.
> 
> all i know for now is the 6to8 has more tuning ability than any other processor i have used, is dead quiet interm of noise, no turn on or turn off pop, and the end result is quite excellent. i hope the ps8 is the same.
> 
> and being that the two processors carry virtually identical price points...i think my hopes is that they are comparable in performance, with a lil give or take here and there...
> 
> unless you know something I am not aware of?


I've not heard either one... I'm simply referring to the philosophy behind the design of both. Arc is really wanting the PS8 to be a "no compromise" DSP... look at the damn thing. It's freaking huge, they spared no expense; they had some big names help in the design (Bob Zeff et. al.) The 6to8 is tiny, was a "high-end hobby project" before being picked up by Mosconi. The PS8 also certainly has more horsepower in the DSP department, although not by much. 

I'm putting my money on the fact that the PS8 will measure better, but I guess we shall see. Both are audiophile quality and I doubt even a trained ear would say anything bad about either. I bought the 6to8 and am subscribed to this thread, so that probably shows where my loyalty is at.


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## pdqwrx

I say we put the PS8 and the 6to8 in a cage fight and see who wins.... LOL


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## simplicityinsound

Neil_J said:


> I've not heard either one... I'm simply referring to the philosophy behind the design of both. Arc is really wanting the PS8 to be a "no compromise" DSP... look at the damn thing. It's freaking huge, they spared no expense; they had some big names help in the design (Bob Zeff et. al.) The 6to8 is tiny, was a "high-end hobby project" before being picked up by Mosconi. The PS8 also certainly has more horsepower in the DSP department, although not by much.
> 
> I'm putting my money on the fact that the PS8 will measure better, but I guess we shall see. Both are audiophile quality and I doubt even a trained ear would say anything bad about either. I bought the 6to8 and am subscribed to this thread, so that probably shows where my loyalty is at.


sorry if my response came out harsh, i just get peeve when comparisons are made between products when one or sometime neither, are available.

i see this happen too many times on here, people aleady have some kind of impression or opinion on something when it hasnt even come out yet. and they have never used or listening to it...this kind of thing almost is never good for the product, or the community as a whole....many a times i have talked to customers who had belief about a product simple because he/she saw a singular post on a forum... Hell had someone telling me how great the MS8 was a full year before it ever came out. 

i just wanna make sure the Mosconi piece, nor the Arc piece, gets over or under hyped, and we all speak from real world experience.

for me, a good dsp has to be :

1. reliable
2. clean and devoid of noise
3. as many tuning features as possible
4. easy to master 

in that order of preference.

again, lets wait for the Arc and then see...then agian, its perfectly reasonable to have two comparable and equally good in their own way DSPs out there. right?


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## pdqwrx

Right!


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## simplicityinsound

one more thing...maybe something has changed, i am fairly sure the PS8 is still smaller than the MS8 and the H800? comparable in size to the bitone?


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## cruzinbill

simplicityinsound said:


> one more thing...maybe something has changed, i am fairly sure the PS8 is still smaller than the MS8 and the H800? comparable in size to the bitone?


From the pics its looks a lil bit smaller than my bitone, but that could be an illusion


----------



## Neil_J

simplicityinsound said:


> one more thing...maybe something has changed, i am fairly sure the PS8 is still smaller than the MS8 and the H800? comparable in size to the bitone?


I drive a MINI, all the DSP's are freaking huge to me, even the bitone. MS8 is truly a monster, super heavy cast aluminum heatsink for the amps and such. I literally can't even mount the MS8 in my trunk, it's too big. Thank god the 6to8 is as small as it is.

I really think the installers will like the 6to8 for this reason. More placement options.


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## simplicityinsound

its a love/hate thing for me, i love the small size so i can tuck it, but when i have room i wish there was more than this tiny lil thing to show...its so much smaller than anything else its kinda hard to find cosmetic balance to have it showing, so i usually dont show it.


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## n_olympios

Indeed, smaller is better.

This does not appy elsewhere.


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## simplicityinsound

cruzinbill said:


> From the pics its looks a lil bit smaller than my bitone, but that could be an illusion


wheni saw it in person it looks similar in size but thinner (lower profile) but again, without a tape measure, i dont know...we will see when it comes out


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## oca123

I was told by an installer who has seen one that it was "freakin huge"

Bing, FYI Neil is or is to be an EE and I'm sure he's read the specs on both units, and that he will be taking the 6to8 part.

I think I'm going to wait for the PS8.

Bing, this is a long shot, but since you're an installer and you've seen the PS8 in person, and hoping that you've done an install in a Bentley CGT before - do you think that the PS8 would fit in the removable shelf that acts as the trunk ceiling? This is where I currently have my BitOne.

Neil - PM me, I forgot about the MS8, it is still here and I can have it shipped to you if you still want it. I have not changed my mind and you can still have it for free.



> IMO the PS8 is "batshit, no-compromise, audiophile quality" whereas the 6to8 is just "pretty damn good audiophile quality". 6to8 is the better deal unless you're a serious SQ competetor or have a ton of money to spend, and it's available now.


I thought the PS8 was to be priced in the sub $1000-range alongside the bitone, h800, etc? regardless, i have a ton of money to spend, i just with the damn thing came out already.

And for the Orca folks - I posted earlier about this but was doing that from a mobile device and I realize now what I posted did not make much sense. I currently have an Pure i20 iphone/ipod dock mounted in my trunk. The dock provides optical out, which goes to my BitOne. My iPod is hooked up to the dock via a dock extender cable.

With the iPod touch 4, when hooked up to the dock, I still have the ability to control the volume. Am I correct in assuming that the volume control is lossless, i.e. the value of the volume setting is sent alongside the digital signal, and whatever unit does the digital to analog conversion takes this value into account to determine output voltage?
Sort of like how in some cars audio from the HU to the factory amp is line-level and then the volume setting is sent via canbus?
What I mean is - is there such a feature in the spdif specification and if so, does the 6to8 support it?


----------



## simplicityinsound

oca123 said:


> I was told by an installer who has seen one that it was "freakin huge"
> 
> Bing, FYI Neil is or is to be an EE and I'm sure he's read the specs on both units, and that he will be taking the 6to8 part.
> 
> I think I'm going to wait for the PS8.
> 
> Bing, this is a long shot, but since you're an installer and you've seen the PS8 in person, and hoping that you've done an install in a Bentley CGT before - do you think that the PS8 would fit in the removable shelf that acts as the trunk ceiling? This is where I currently have my BitOne.
> 
> Neil - PM me, I forgot about the MS8, it is still here and I can have it shipped to you if you still want it. I have not changed my mind and you can still have it for free.
> 
> 
> And for the Orca folks - I posted earlier about this but was doing that from a mobile device and I realize now what I posted did not make much sense. I currently have an Pure i20 iphone/ipod dock mounted in my trunk. The dock provides optical out, which goes to my BitOne. My iPod is hooked up to the dock via a dock extender cable.
> 
> With the iPod touch 4, when hooked up to the dock, I still have the ability to control the volume. Am I correct in assuming that the volume control is lossless, i.e. the value of the volume setting is sent alongside the digital signal, and whatever unit does the digital to analog conversion takes this value into account to determine output voltage?
> Sort of like how in some cars audio from the HU to the factory amp is line-level and then the volume setting is sent via canbus?
> What I mean is - is there such a feature in the spdif specification and if so, does the 6to8 support it?


no idea, never touched a bentley and i have only seen the ps8 in person in freds car at CES and a few prototypes.  cant help you there bud.

specs never mattered to me either  its all about how it performs in the real world.


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## oca123

simplicityinsound said:


> no idea, never touched a bentley and i have only seen the ps8 in person in freds car at CES and a few prototypes.  cant help you there bud.
> 
> specs never mattered to me either  its all about how it performs in the real world.


all it is is an overpriced volkswagen. I have taken the car apart when I did my install, and I was not impressed. It is not my daily driver, but I do love driving it. Great car to put a system in though.

I am glad to see you like the 6to8. It is definitely tiny and it would fit in the space where the BitOne currently is. Anything bigger than the BitOne would require me to rework my install and re-route cables and I'd rather not do that. There is a glimmer of hope though since someone mentioned above that the PS8 is comparable in size to the BitOne.


----------



## basher8621

Neil_J said:


> I've not heard either one... I'm simply referring to the philosophy behind the design of both. Arc is really wanting the PS8 to be a "no compromise" DSP... look at the damn thing. It's freaking huge, they spared no expense; they had some big names help in the design (Bob Zeff et. al.) The 6to8 is tiny, was a "high-end hobby project" before being picked up by Mosconi. The PS8 also certainly has more horsepower in the DSP department, although not by much.
> 
> I'm putting my money on the fact that the PS8 will measure better, but I guess we shall see. Both are audiophile quality and I doubt even a trained ear would say anything bad about either. I bought the 6to8 and am subscribed to this thread, so that probably shows where my loyalty is at.


Hey man I had the Dodge Caliber in Daytona you listened too. That was using the 6to8.


----------



## marvnmars

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> The Bluetooth adapter is proprietary to Mosconi. You cannot use any other BT adapter with the DSP.
> 
> Nick


 how does one go about getting the bt adapter if there is no focal dealer in town, and what is msrp for the bluetooth device.


----------



## ErinH

^ the same guy you got your dsp from should be able to get you the BT adapter. That's where I got mine.


(got your pm, but see your question has been answered here already. Sorry for slacking)


----------



## Neil_J

Neil_J said:


> I've not heard either one...


Must of been late when I typed that.. I'm pretty sure I DID hear both at SBN, and they both knocked my socks off.


Basher's Dodge Magnum (the orange one, right??) was the first car I'd ever heard with spot on center image without a center channel. I got out and asked him how exactly he did that.. 6to8 and HAT front stage, I think
Ally's Monte Carlo with the Audible Physics gear and 6to8, different classes but she got a better score than me 
Strakele's Mitsubishi sounded freaking amazing, esp. On the bottom end. 6to8 and tweeterless audible physics a-pillars. 
Mark / Audionutz, I heard he may have been run in the PS8. Best car that I heard, hand down. That's been my reference / goal ever since.


----------



## Neil_J

Neil_J said:


> Must of been late when I typed that.. I'm pretty sure I DID hear both at SBN, and they both knocked my socks off.



Basher's Dodge Magnum (the orange one, right??) was the first car I'd ever heard with spot on center image without a center channel. I got out and asked him how exactly he did that.. 6to8 and HAT front stage, I think
Ally's Monte Carlo with the Audible Physics gear and 6to8, different classes but she got a better score than me 
Strakele's Mitsubishi sounded freaking amazing, esp. On the bottom end. 6to8 and tweeterless audible physics a-pillars. 
Mark / Audionutz, I heard he may have been run in the PS8. Best car that I heard, hand down. That's been my reference / goal ever since.
And me there with my lowly ms8, with feelings of ambivalence .. Lol


----------



## basher8621

Yep that was mine.


----------



## simplicityinsound

if you heard fred's car then that had the ps8 in it for absolutely certain.


----------



## strakele

Pretty sure there was a lot more than 1 PS8 car at SBN...


----------



## Neil_J

simplicityinsound said:


> if you heard fred's car then that had the ps8 in it for absolutely certain.


Fred who? What kind of car was it? Was he on team Arc?


----------



## t3sn4f2

oca123 said:


> With the iPod touch 4, when hooked up to the dock, I still have the ability to control the volume. Am I correct in assuming that the volume control is lossless, i.e. the value of the volume setting is sent alongside the digital signal, and whatever unit does the digital to analog conversion takes this value into account to determine output voltage?
> Sort of like how in some cars audio from the HU to the factory amp is line-level and then the volume setting is sent via canbus?
> What I mean is - is there such a feature in the spdif specification and if so, does the 6to8 support it?


My 3gs used to loose volume control from the device on the i-20 as well. Only the remote that came with the dock would work. But after upgrading to ios5, the volume control from the device is now functional and reflects the remote's setting. ie the remote moves the slider on the screen.

The i-20 controls master volume in the digital domain at the device only and for both the analog and digital outputs simultaneously. S/PDIF is attenuated accordingly. The quality is not "lossless" or even high quality IMO. A THD test at just -5dB showed more harmonics than the worse DAC I've tested (iirc). I can only imagine how bad it gets at typical master volume settings of -30 or -40dB. I'll retest it today to make sure and post the results in a quote of this post.


----------



## basher8621

Lynch, white Saturn.


----------



## Neil_J

basher8621 said:


> Lynch, white Saturn.


Didn't get a chance to hear that one, unfortunately.


----------



## SouthSyde

strakele said:


> Pretty sure there was a lot more than 1 PS8 car at SBN...


There was three that I can be certain of. 

Steve Head's Big meat

Lee Chaver's Acura

Fred Lynch's Saturn


----------



## Neil_J

SouthSyde said:


> There was three that I can be certain of.
> 
> Steve Head's Big meat
> 
> Lee Chaver's Acura
> 
> Fred Lynch's Saturn


I got to hear two out of three of those. The whole thing (SBN) was kind of a blur, but the good-sounding cars that stuck out had either 6to8's or PS8's. I welcome these as two new forum boners that will hopefully knock the ms8 and bitone off that throne


----------



## strakele

Those are for sure, but I think there may have been even more. I heard there may have been 6 or 7 there.

Anyway, I just took a look through the PS8 specs. Looks like it has more EQ bands on ch3-8, and .01ms more T/A resolution (in expert mode). 6to8 matches it basically everywhere else, except the 6to8's crossover adjustments have more options (shelf, notch, Tchebychev, slopes, etc). Can't go wrong with either one.


----------



## decibelle

Neil_J said:


> I got to hear two out of three of those. The whole thing (SBN) was kind of a blur, but the good-sounding cars that stuck out had either 6to8's or PS8's. *I welcome these as two new forum boners that will hopefully knock the ms8 and bitone off that throne*



Seconded. 


I wish I could have heard the others, but the only one I got a demo of was Steve's Big Meat. Needless to say, I thoroughly enjoyed it...


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> Those are for sure, but I think there may have been even more. I heard there may have been 6 or 7 there.
> 
> Anyway, I just took a look through the PS8 specs. Looks like it has more EQ bands on ch3-8, and .01ms more T/A resolution (in expert mode). 6to8 matches it basically everywhere else, except the 6to8's crossover adjustments have more options (shelf, notch, Tchebychev, slopes, etc). Can't go wrong with either one.


The 6to8 and every other DSP of the last 5+ years uses 48 KHz sampling frequency on the DACs and ADC's, which 1/f gives 0.02ms second resolution for T/A adjustment.. That's the atomic unit of time, which is why even the cheap ones like MiniDSP all quote 0.02ms. 

The Arc PS8 is apparently a step ahead in that they're using 192 KHz (or "up to" 192, it only needs 100khz or so to get the advertised 0.01 ms resolution. 

This is why I originally said that the PS8 is batshit, no compromise. The only other people that get this sort of resolution are the pro audio guys. It's insane that they're doing this, and as I said, I'm pretty damn sure it will out-measure all of the other DSPs. If it's priced comparatively, then it's a freaking steal.


----------



## strakele

Hardware specs are indeed better, but how much source material do you have where the additional sampling frequency would be beneficial?

Also, (this isn't very scientific) but just from what I've read around here, it seems people with ears I trust can't hear differences of less than about .06ms.


----------



## quality_sound

Neil_J said:


> Didn't get a chance to hear that one, unfortunately.


If you think that's good, you should hear his Passat. That thing is like sitting 3 feet from a Jazz band. I LOVE the tonality and Dynamics but it's a totally different type of build. The Saturn is a true DD setup and sound phenomenal and that was BEFORE when it had a modded H701 in there. I can't wait to visit home and listen to it now.


----------



## t3sn4f2

t3sn4f2 said:


> My 3gs used to loose volume control from the device on the i-20 as well. Only the remote that came with the dock would work. But after upgrading to ios5, the volume control from the device is now functional and reflects the remote's setting. ie the remote moves the slider on the screen.
> 
> The i-20 controls master volume in the digital domain at the device only and for both the analog and digital outputs simultaneously. S/PDIF is attenuated accordingly. The quality is not "lossless" or even high quality IMO. *A THD test at just -5dB showed more harmonics than the worse DAC I've tested (iirc).* I can only imagine how bad it gets at typical master volume settings of -30 or -40dB. I'll retest it today to make sure and post the results in a quote of this post.


First a correction on the sentence I have in bold above. I meant to say dynamic range and noise performance suffer greatly. 

Below is a dynamic range comparison between the perfect max volume digital output of the i-20 and one with its master volume set to -20dB. Which is a VERY loud setting on any typical setup.

Results are normalized. The "perfect results for a CD format" results are not visible here because they lay underneath the i-20 max volume results. That is the reason I called the pure's full max volume setting results "perfect". 










I did realize today something that makes these result useless. That is that the i-20 uses a linear instead of a LOG volume scale. What this means with respect to how we hear is that the volume become very loud right after the first volume setting and doesn't change that much throughout the top half of the volume setting. And to add to that the first lowest volume setting I could achieve using the remote is -25dB and using the hardware buttons on my iPhone only improved that by 5dB. The on-screen slider's increments didn't help much either. The lowest I could get it to go was -50dB and the next two steps were -40db and -30db. All this within a couple millimeters on the sliders on screen width. 

To get an idea of what this all means. The lowest volume setting I could get with the phone's hardware buttons was enough to overdrive my 4" desktop speakers using a 60 watt amps, 2 volt DAC, and a heavily compressed hip hop track. IOW, the master volume control is useless.


----------



## quality_sound

millerlyte said:


> Seconded.
> 
> 
> I wish I could have heard the others, *but the only one I got a demo of was Steve's Big Meat. Needless to say, I thoroughly enjoyed it... *




:surprised:


----------



## t3sn4f2

Neil_J said:


> The 6to8 and every other DSP of the last 5+ years uses 48 KHz sampling frequency on the DACs and ADC's, which 1/f gives 0.02ms second resolution for T/A adjustment.. That's the atomic unit of time, which is why even the cheap ones like MiniDSP all quote 0.02ms.
> 
> The Arc PS8 is apparently a step ahead in that they're using 192 KHz (or "up to" 192, it only needs 100khz or so to get the advertised 0.01 ms resolution.
> 
> This is why I originally said that the PS8 is batshit, no compromise. The only other people that get this sort of resolution are the pro audio guys. It's insane that they're doing this, and as I said, I'm pretty damn sure it will out-measure all of the other DSPs. If it's priced comparatively, then it's a freaking steal.


I seem to recall reading somewhere that it processes at 96kHz.

That should bump up the dynamic range to somewhere near 105dB referenced to 2 volts output. CD being 96dB. All the other specs like distortion and IMD are not really gong to improve since even a CD format has better thd & imd digital resolution then the best DAC analog outputs. VERY high end DACs are hitting into the .000x% thd and a CD formats potential is at .0003%. And excellent for car audio is .001x%, if that and not adding noise onto it which moves it up .003% typically. A high resolution formats digital potential is well well below that. 

I imagine the only audible benefit would be in pre-processing bit resolution for better processing accuracy. But I don't even think that would matter.


----------



## Neil_J

t3sn4f2 said:


> I seem to recall reading somewhere that it processes at 96kHz.
> 
> That should bump up the dynamic range to somewhere near 105dB referenced to 2 volts output. CD being 96dB. All the other specs like distortion and IMD are not really gong to improve since even a CD format has better thd & imd digital resolution then the best DAC analog outputs. VERY high end DACs are hitting into the .000x% thd and a CD formats potential is at .0003%. And excellent for car audio is .001x%, if that and not adding noise onto it which moves it up .003% typically. A high resolution formats digital potential is well well below that.
> 
> I imagine the only audible benefit would be in pre-processing bit resolution for better processing accuracy. But I don't even think that would matter.


I'll bet a dollar that the PS8 noise floor and crosstalk are lower than the most DSPs as well, not because of the DAC/ADC specs, but because of better pcb layout. Just a wild guess there.


----------



## MarkZ

Neil_J said:


> The 6to8 and every other DSP of the last 5+ years uses 48 KHz sampling frequency on the DACs and ADC's, which 1/f gives 0.02ms second resolution for T/A adjustment.. That's the atomic unit of time, which is why even the cheap ones like MiniDSP all quote 0.02ms.
> 
> The Arc PS8 is apparently a step ahead in that they're using 192 KHz (or "up to" 192, it only needs 100khz or so to get the advertised 0.01 ms resolution.
> 
> This is why I originally said that the PS8 is batshit, no compromise. The only other people that get this sort of resolution are the pro audio guys.


And the car PC guys.


----------



## Neil_J

MarkZ said:


> And the car PC guys.


All 3 if them


----------



## tonny

I've tested the 6to8 next to my Old f1 dsp the pxa-h900, and the mosconi was a big step 
ahead, the sound was much more clear and open.... 
Even when using the f1 as a DAC form my digital out put and then with rca cable's to the 
6to8 and from there to the amp's the sound was better as from the alpine direct to the 
amp's!
I can't wait to get the optical input on the 6to8 to get me even more improvement. 

So sound wise the 6to8 is very good!
And also the setup possibilities are very nice.


----------



## n_olympios

Now see, for us F#1 owners, this is bad. I can't afford a change in DSP.


----------



## tonny

n_olympios said:


> Now see, for us F#1 owners, this is bad. I can't afford a change in DSP.


indeed and that with 2 f1 dsp's at home...


----------



## oca123

Thank you for the detailed reply. I have been using the ipod with maxed out volume, and the bit one DRC to control volume. It is freakin LOUD.
I don't see myself going back to analog.

I know this is off topic, but I have one last question about the i20. the way i have it mounted does not allow me to use the remote. are you saying that by default, the volume is not maxed out, even using the ipod?






t3sn4f2 said:


> First a correction on the sentence I have in bold above. I meant to say dynamic range and noise performance suffer greatly.
> 
> Below is a dynamic range comparison between the perfect max volume digital output of the i-20 and one with its master volume set to -20dB. Which is a VERY loud setting on any typical setup.
> 
> Results are normalized. The "perfect results for a CD format" results are not visible here because they lay underneath the i-20 max volume results. That is the reason I called the pure's full max volume setting results "perfect".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did realize today something that makes these result useless. That is that the i-20 uses a linear instead of a LOG volume scale. What this means with respect to how we hear is that the volume become very loud right after the first volume setting and doesn't change that much throughout the top half of the volume setting. And to add to that the first lowest volume setting I could achieve using the remote is -25dB and using the hardware buttons on my iPhone only improved that by 5dB. The on-screen slider's increments didn't help much either. The lowest I could get it to go was -50dB and the next two steps were -40db and -30db. All this within a couple millimeters on the sliders on screen width.
> 
> To get an idea of what this all means. The lowest volume setting I could get with the phone's hardware buttons was enough to overdrive my 4" desktop speakers using a 60 watt amps, 2 volt DAC, and a heavily compressed hip hop track. IOW, the master volume control is useless.


----------



## tonny

Always when you control the volume over the optical output the sq will be compromised!
The howl dynamic range will be down, so the sound is really crap.... I've tested that 
with a mac mini with optical output, when you turn the volume down with iTunes the 
dynamics are a lot less... you don't need any measurements to hear know it!


----------



## oca123

I thought maybe it was an issue with my system. I did notice that I liked to max out the volume on the ipod and lower it then using the BitOne DRC.


----------



## t3sn4f2

oca123 said:


> Thank you for the detailed reply. I have been using the ipod with maxed out volume, and the bit one DRC to control volume. It is freakin LOUD.
> I don't see myself going back to analog.
> 
> *I know this is off topic, but I have one last question about the i20. the way i have it mounted does not allow me to use the remote. are you saying that by default, the volume is not maxed out, even using the ipod*?


The last few paragraphs in the following post link should explain it.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1602578-post23.html


----------



## 14642

tonny said:


> Always when you control the volume over the optical output the sq will be compromised!
> The howl dynamic range will be down, so the sound is really crap.... I've tested that
> with a mac mini with optical output, when you turn the volume down with iTunes the
> dynamics are a lot less... you don't need any measurements to hear know it!


Well...one thing is true here. When you vary the level of the digital signal, the resolution is compromised. Does it sound like crap? Hmmm...

I use a mac mini and JRiver Media Center and the volume is controlled in Media Center. The optical output of the Mini is fed to a multi-channel audio interface where it's resampled to 48k (from 44.1) and I do a bunch of additional processing in the Mini (in AudioMulch) over USB. Then, the signal is converted to analog in the interface, sent over balanced lines to the analog inputs of some OE amplifiers from Hyundai (from our OEM group), where the signal is converted back into digital at 48k, and gets digital EQ, crossover, delay and limiting. Then, it's converted to analog once again and sent to the speakers by way of some 20-watt TDA75xx amplifier ICs. There isn't a single preamp cable in the car and the only optical connection is from the mini to the interface. Everything else is over 20 gauge speaker wire--and 16 gauge to the speakers.

From an audio purist's standpoint, this should sound like garbage--no high end cables, no dynamics, no power, a thousand conversions, resampling, jitter, no Burr Brown, no matched components, no synchronized clocks, no discrete amplification...but guess what? 

Sounds great at all levels. After people hear it and I explain, they often say, "Imagine what it would sound like if you followed all the rules?" to which I respond, "If it sounded any different, it would be your imagination."

Gimme a break.


----------



## 14642

Oh, and all the files on the hard drive are 256k MP3s.


----------



## oca123

> ... and I do a bunch of additional processing in the Mini (in AudioMulch) over USB. Then, the signal is converted to analog in the interface, sent over balanced lines to the analog inputs of some OE amplifiers ...


Since t/a etc. is done by the amps, wbat kind of processing are you doing with the VST plugins? You have me curious here... most source material these days is screwed up and I have often thought about using a blackbox carputer with some VST plugin to fix it, but never took the time to figure out if it could be done and how.



> From an audio purist's standpoint, this should sound like garbage--no high end cables, no dynamics, no power, a thousand conversions, resampling, jitter, no Burr Brown, no matched components, no synchronized clocks, no discrete amplification...but guess what?
> 
> Sounds great at all levels. After people hear it and I explain, they often say, "Imagine what it would sound like if you followed all the rules?" to which I respond, "If it sounded any different, it would be your imagination."
> 
> Gimme a break.


Well, I'll admit that I went and tried reducing the volume using the i20/ipod instead of the BitOne. I turned it way down, then turned the BitOne up, and I can't hear the difference.
My setup is pretty detailed too... i guess the weak link is my ears.


----------



## E30 Racer

The bluetooth adapter. Rather than using a conventional USB connector, it interfaces with the main PCB via a small 12-pin connector. Hopefully it won't wiggle loose since it could be difficult to plug in after the 6to8 is installed. The risk of bending the pins would be my biggest concern. Also, when not properly seated, an odd high frequency sweep was heard from the 6to8 (i.e., not the speakers) until the unit ultimately turned itself off.










Little quirks aside, I really like it.


----------



## simplicityinsound

E30 Racer said:


> The bluetooth adapter. Rather than using a conventional USB connector, it interfaces with the main PCB via a small 12-pin connector. Hopefully it won't wiggle loose since it could be difficult to plug in after the 6to8 is installed. The risk of bending the pins would be my biggest concern. Also, when not properly seated, an odd high frequency sweep was heard from the 6to8 (i.e., not the speakers) until the unit ultimately turned itself off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little quirks aside, I really like it.


i unplugged and replugged in the two i did a dozen or so times, yeah i was freaking out at first about bent pins, but after two cars with BT and no issues, i sorta relaxed 

b


----------



## Coupon

Do anyone know when will the display unit going to come out?


----------



## simplicityinsound

hopefully in the next month or two, i am waiting on one for a car


----------



## killahsharksjc

Two cars.... lol....


----------



## stuckinok

I plan on having a romantic dinner with my 6to8 tonight. We will just enjoy each others company until I have time to throw in the Tacoma.


----------



## Coppertone

^^^ OK that is just sick, sick because I actually am hoping for a threesome with mine lol...


----------



## ErinH

I've got a short review coming soon. Still some testing to do yet...


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## pionkej

bikinpunk said:


> I've got a short review coming soon. Still some testing to do yet...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


In for this.


----------



## james2266

bikinpunk said:


> I've got a short review coming soon. Still some testing to do yet...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


Ditto here. Always look forward to Bikinpunk's reviews no matter how short. ie. they never seem to be short or lacking of any kind imo Seriously looking at this dsp to replace the Bit One.1 Erin, as I know you have/had one, I am curious if this is a step up from the Bit One and if it is if it is a slight one or a massive one. My wallet wants it to be no difference but my brain says it might just be a massive one.


----------



## marvnmars

Does the 6 to 8 have the ability to program amp turn on delay so you can make every amp turn on at the same time, no matter who the manufacturer is?


----------



## pionkej

marvnmars said:


> Does the 6 to 8 have the ability to program amp turn on delay so you can make every amp turn on at the same time, no matter who the manufacturer is?


No, it doesn't. It doesn't even have a rem. out to the amps. It gets split with the amps from the head units turn-on lead. If your looking for something like that, I'd say a PG DD5/DD10 is your best bet. They are pretty sweet (and still cost a good bit in the used market).


----------



## marvnmars

pionkej said:


> No, it doesn't. It doesn't even have a rem. out to the amps. It gets split with the amps from the head units turn-on lead. If your looking for something like that, I'd say a PG DD5/DD10 is your best bet. They are pretty sweet (and still cost a good bit in the used market).


Actually, that is one of the listed features of the Arc ps8...sadly, that might make it worth waiting for.it would be nice for all 3 amps to come on at once, quietly, as they both have a proprietary bt adapter for more then the $5 cost, and both are outstanding dsp's that will allow adjustments through the bt adapter...i just am not sure if th arc will have an app or not to use my phone or tablet.....aaaarrrggghhhhh. oh and personally, if the manufacturers can charge $100 for a blutooth adapter, they can pay apple for an app...


----------



## strakele

I have no issues with amp turn on just connecting the remote on from the HU to the processor in addition to the amps. No weird turn on/off noises or anything.


----------



## basher8621

I have no issues with turn on either.


----------



## basher8621

james2266 said:


> Ditto here. Always look forward to Bikinpunk's reviews no matter how short. ie. they never seem to be short or lacking of any kind imo Seriously looking at this dsp to replace the Bit One.1 Erin, as I know you have/had one, I am curious if this is a step up from the Bit One and if it is if it is a slight one or a massive one. My wallet wants it to be no difference but my brain says it might just be a massive one.


I took my BitOne out and put this in. Overall this is a much better processor than the BitOne. More flexible in every way. The only thing the BitOne has is more bands but that really isn't needed. Sub's don't need 31 bands, neither do tweeters.


----------



## Neil_J

Man up / nerd up, buy a $20 Arduino board and relay shield, and write a few lines of code if you're getting turnon pops and don't want to swap DSPs. I know grade schoolers that are doing more complicated stuff, there's really no excuse  

This is a DIY forum, right?


----------



## decibelle

Neil_J said:


> Man up / nerd up, buy a $20 Arduino board and relay shield, and write a few lines of code if you're getting turnon pops and don't want to swap DSPs. I know grade schoolers that are doing more complicated stuff, there's really no excuse


Jeez, that statement makes ME feel old.

Send me over their contact info. I wouldn't mind paying someone else to do my homework... even if they are middle schoolers. That's still legal, right?


----------



## n_olympios

LOL Neil, easy for you to say, you're handy with boards and such. 

Let's not turn this thread into a "I have/don't have turn-on pop", usually it's not there but in some cases it's nice to have an option to avoid it.


----------



## marvnmars

strakele said:


> I have no issues with amp turn on just connecting the remote on from the HU to the processor in addition to the amps. No weird turn on/off noises or anything.


I am not refering to noise from the dsp, i have different brand amps on my mids, tweets and sub which all have a slightly different timed delay before turning on, i would like to eleminate that and have all the amps be on, producing sound at the same time. the arc ps8 (according to lit) will allow the user to program in the turn on times through the u/i of the dsp. a simple, yet very slick little feature.


----------



## marvnmars

i do not have a pop issue, i am just lazy and do not want to string relays together to make all amps live at once, plus the 1 stop solution is more apealing to my crowded small work space.


----------



## Neil_J

I had a very annoying pop with my MS-8, my car would turn on the +12v turnon signal when opening either door before the ignition was turned on... And would turn off during the ignition crank just long enough to cause a nasty pop to be heard. It went away when I started using the trunk +12v accessory port instead (but now my door gongs don't work). I guess I'm saying that sometimes it's car dependent.


----------



## james2266

basher8621 said:


> I took my BitOne out and put this in. Overall this is a much better processor than the BitOne. More flexible in every way. The only thing the BitOne has is more bands but that really isn't needed. Sub's don't need 31 bands, neither do tweeters.


PM sent


----------



## stuckinok

Re-doin my system, mosconi, audio system and micro precision. Yikes!


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Some of you have been asking for the spec's on the Mosconi DSP. Well, here you go. These are the specs that Mosconi has measured and released to us.

Input Impedance Low Level >10K ohms ( typical is 14.3Kohm)
High Level 47 ohm

Input Sensitivity: 2 volts RMS Low Level 5 volts - 20 volts via on board
potentiometers

Input Voltage Regulation -12db to 0db via on board potentiometers

Maximum Output Signal 4 Volts RMS

Output Impedance 50ohms

S/N Ratio > 102 db A weighted ( Typical 105db)

THD Distortion < 0.003 @ 1 volt input

Frequency Response 20Hz to 20Khz within - .1db

Channel Separation > 91 [email protected] >91db @ 1Khz >72 db @ 10Khz

Supply Voltage is 11 Volts to 15 volts

The DAC chip is built by Texas Instruments and is one of the Burr Brown family of chips. We opened one of the units up today and took a look at the parts being used. The Op Amps are the good ole TI 5532 and there a lot of them used. No, you cannot roll Op-amps, they are soldered to the board. Sorry. Power Supply Caps being used are 105 Degree C and appear to be electrolytic as do all of the other caps being used. The DSP is a TI as well and is a tried and true one. I like it!!! Hope this helps the curious on the forum.

Nick


----------



## ErinH

Grab some coffee and strap in. This is about to be waaaaay too long winded. And with videos to boot! 



The Mosconi DSP has an interesting 'feature' that turns the output off (or, altogether just mutes the entire unit in/out) when any clipped signal is applied. I tested this with my oscope and found that everytime I neared the clipping with the tones I used (100hz, 1khz, 10khz) going in to the Mosconi, the unit would just mute the outputs. The signal dropped on the scope completely. When I lowered the voltage going in to the 6to8, the unit picked right back up.
But, I found, too that it's not only an input sensing thing... it does the same if you happen to boost the signal in to clipping in the dsp. 

When I first noticed this, I had the software output on Ch1 of the DSP software set to 100%. I also had the physical gain knob on the Mosconi set all the way up. The output voltage that the unit would max out at, with the input voltage above is about 4.10 Vrms. 

Next, I decided to use the physical gain knob and see what would happen if I lowered that but still fed a signal >2.22 Vrms to the DSP input.
I dropped the physical gain pot down on the DSP to about 1/4 from the bottom and then proceeded to adjust the input voltage from about 1v to about 7v P-P (0.353 Vrms to 2.47 V RMS) from the oscope. I made it all the way up to 2.47 Vrms out of the scope, going in to the Mosconi and didn't have any issues, though the unit's preout voltage was only about 2.60 Vrms. So, as long as I didn't clip the signal, all was well. 

Ultimately, it seems the unit I'm using mutes the outputs when you get above roughly 4.10 Vrms with the software set to 100% output. This is pure sinewave.
When you set the software to any % of that, you get the corresponding voltage decrease. In other words, if you set the software to 50%, the output voltage is maxed at about 2 Vrms and the outputs are muted above that. 
When I adjusted the dsp's output by -0.5db, the unit would mute at about 3.70 Vrms output. 

If I sent it a clipped signal at ANY level, the unit would mute. It looks like any clipped signal at all - whether it be input or output stage - will mute the dsp by design. So, if you somehow feed it a clipped signal - regardless of how clipped it is - the unit will mute. If you drive the unit beyond a point it doesn't want to drive the outputs, it will mute.


I've shot a video of it to explain what I'm talking about above. Don't knock me for losing my brain at the end. My wife walked outside and gave me one of those "wtf are you doing?" looks and I felt stupid, lol. 
*Please note, that if I happened to call the input voltage RMS, that it is not. The Stingray provides an output voltage in Peak to Peak, which means the maximum output of the stingray is 7 volts P-P or 2.74 Volts RMS, going from the Stingray to the Mosconi input RCAs.







Finally, I tried to see what would happen when I adjusted the gain on the EQ. I set the EQ about +1dB at 2khz with a Q of 4.00 for this test. 
Then I started to adjust the gain to see where the unit would clip, expecting it to clip early. What I found, instead, was that it didn't mute until I got to about 4.20 Vrms. Interesting. Turns out, the unit actually allows you to boost the EQ up in to square wave but it will quickly stabilize the signal to 4vrms output unclipped. Watch the video below. You'll see. 

So, then I dropped the EQ down 1dB at the same frequency. This time, the unit muted the output at about 3.20 Vrms . So, it seems that attenuating the outputs in any fashion; either by EQ or levels, makes the unit's output lower (naturally) but it is never able to go above the corresponding change. In other words, if you were to tell the unit to drop the output by 1 Vrms at any given frequency or bandwidth, it does it and you can never go higher than the delta of that original 4v-1v = 3 Vrms before the unit cuts off.
At least, that's the way it seems to me. Video #2 below should help illustrate what I mean more clearly than I can put in to words. 







This video is simply an audible illustration of what happens when the unit reaches it's maximum output. In the video, I had the gain attenuated in the software, so you'll see the DSP 'clips' at about 3.60v. Don't pay attention to the number so much as what's going on. I've found the max is indeed just a touch over 4 VRMS as has been stated above. 

Also, I call the 7v p-p "2.47 v rms".... it's really 2.74 v rms but I'm dyslexic (no offense to those who really are dyslexic). 







*
To sum all of this up:*
This unit does not like clipping of _any_ kind. Period. If it senses a clipped signal coming in _or_ going out, whether full out square or even soft clipping, it mutes the outputs entirely until you turn the voltage down either by volume knob or you adjust a setting on the DSP. The maximum unclipped voltage is a tad over 4 V RMS. Anymore than that and it shuts down the outputs because the unit itself is not capable of providing higher than this 4 Vrms output cleanly*.
Well, except when you boost the EQ and it normalizes the clipped signal to 4v. 

The real kicker to me is, if you attenuate outputs, it will attenuate FROM THAT 4V mark, so if you attenuate via EQ by the equivalent of 1 Vrms, the voltage output will max at the delta of 4 Vrms and that 1 Vrms , so you'd get a maximum of 3 Vrms and anything above that would mute the unit. Where this bothers me is if one was to set up their system with EQ using only cuts (like I often do)... it would basically hard limit your voltage out below the 4v mark. I don't know 100% that any other unit would allow you to make up the difference with volume, but this unit seems to not allow that at all and just shuts the outputs down rather than allow you to continue going up on the headunit to make up the difference. 

It seems one may even have to re-evaluate their gain structure after making EQ and level changes. If you find don't have enough volume after making adjustments and the system mutes itself, all the gains in the system have to come up at the amps because you can't do it at the headunit or the dsp since if the dsp senses clipping of any sort, it'll mute. This is a problem in some instances specifically where someone has a noisy amp or component. It's only going to be amplified even more because you have to make up for the gain at the amp. This means that if you think this is an issue, you probably will want some power on tap; or a very efficient system (ie: pro audio) to allow you the output you'll need.

Why does it seems like I'm complaining so much about this where it might be a feature to protect the user? Well, it's simple, really:
Even if you set up your system properly for a clean signal in to and out of your DSP, there is a strong possibility that at some point you'll want to rock out and have some dynamics, this DSP would essentially halt that. I can't guarantee it's going to be a problem and *I'm not saying that everyone should freak out and riot like you just won a Championship*. What I am saying is that you may really want to either a) be aware of this issue in case you happen to find your system mutes and you have no idea why and/or b) keep this in mind when you install your system and keep in mind the gain structure. A headunit that doesn't put out clean voltage all the way up will clip.
Somewhat odd but worth considering: How might heavily compressed music treat this? If you have music that is clipping, then will that present a problem to this piece in regards to it shutting down the outputs? Just something to consider, that's all I'm saying. 

Long story short, I do not like a piece of hardware making decisions for me. If I did, I'd just stick with an auto-tune device and never look back. I would personally rather have the dang thing send a clipped output on to the amps because I'm a responsible adult (as opposed to a bass head kid) and I understand there is certainly a degree of tolerance when it comes to audibility of distortion and clipped signals. I don't need a piece of hardware to limit my interaction with a system; let me face the consequence of a clipped signal... I promise, I can handle it. 

At this point, it is what it is. This may or may not be an issue to the end user and so far there seems to be a lot of happy folks with it. John, my buddy, seems to be really happy with his and Ive asked him to throw some volume at it to try to make it mute but so far he seems to be very happy with it and hasn't been able to mute it. But, I've also had people tell me they've actually been limited in output because of this very issue, while demo'ing the system nonetheless. So, take it for what it's worth: a finding on a feature of the DSP. That's all I can really provide. Truth be told, I really like this piece. I just have this gripe (and a couple minor others listed at the end of this post).








*
Moving on...*

*After all that was said and done, I decided to do a few spot checks on the accuracy of the DSP. *

First up was a few simple sweeps which showed a ruler flat FR from 20-20khz. Good. Exactly what you'd expect.
Second was to test the unit's standard features such as crossover, and EQ accuracy. Both pretty much nailed what they were supposed to do.

My little makeshift test setup was using TrueRTA at 1/24th octave and therefore using the high Q values (40) wasn't quite measurable. It's a simple Q to Octave spacing measurement:
Q factor bandwidth in octaves filter calculator formula bandwidth - quality factor Q to bandwidth per octave width convert filter BW octave mastering slope dB/oct steepness - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
The highest Q one can measure at 1/24 is roughly 36. I say that only to say that I did type in the maximum Q of 40 and it looked to be doing what it should, though the resolution of trueRTA didn't permit me to see the bandwidth fully and therefore cut off some of the result. Make sense? How about this... if you try to measure a Q of 40 with software that only allows you to measure in 1/3 octave, you won't be able to see the full boost/cut you used simply because the spacing of octaves at 1/3 resolution doesn't allow it. In other words, it's a resolution issue. If I give you a picture with 1 million pixels but you can only view 1,000 pixels, you won't see the full image in the form it was given.

The crossover values I tried, which consisted of high pass, low pass, shelving and variable Q all did EXACTLY what they were supposed to. 
Then, I varied the attenuation level and compared what I typed in to what actually was output and it was dead on.

So, whoever it was that said these units don't do what they are commanded to do either
a) Had a bad unit
b) Does not know what they are doing
c) Just wanted to increase their post count

I've attached a picture below illustrating some of the tests mentioned above. It's not to really show anything other than I did what I said I did. 











*Conclusion:*

*All in all, I really dig this piece. * The features it has are killer and it's about the size of a coke can, but thinner. Pound for pound against current DSPs, I don't believe it can be beat. 
However, I am not a fan of a piece of hardware telling me when it's had too much and muting itself. I realize that it's a protection feature but frankly, _I_ don't like it. I realize, too, that 4.0v rms is pretty high and gain knobs were made for this reason but still... I don't like it. I'm not sure if this has been addressed in a firmware update or not but I hope that the folks at Mosconi will either look in to removing this or provide rationale for why they have this built in. I understand I'm only one guy and I'm not about to change their ways... especially if they have solid reasoning for it. I just don't like it (have I said that yet?).

Outside of that, there are a few things I wish this unit could provide.


Number one is finer attenuation on output level. 0.5dB is why I sold the Helix processors and why I might just wind up selling this one and keeping with the P99 for now. Yes, it makes that much of a difference to me. I know, I know... 
I would like to have phase variability but I understand the DSP simply may not be powerful enough for this. 

The huge benefit here, to me, though is the ability to vary the Q in the equalization up to 40. That's a very fine bandwidth and will help _IMMENSELY_ with low frequency resolution via taming modes. That has to be the number one issue with nearly every car audio system I hear and home audio nuts suffer from it as well, though, luckily not as badly unless they're in a listening room the size of a closet. 

On the flip side, the ability to only attenuate 12dB is simply not enough to really go after some modes and I implore the folks at Mosconi to give us the ability to have much further attenuation (ie: 30dB or the like for those serious modes) if the DSP itself will allow it.
There seems to be a bug when adjusting the EQ. It seems that moving the attenuation/boosting around in the paragraphic isn't responsive at all sometimes and you have to reset the frequency to get it to act right again. I didn't notice a specific sequence of events that causes it... just pointing out what I noticed.
One last thing that really irks me is the time it takes for this unit to update when changes are made. It's like pulling teeth.
Additionally, I found through my testing that sometimes the Mosconi loses connection now and again. It'll be up and connected on Com8 via BT, then not connected. I have to restart the s/w to get it working again. Not exactly sure if this is a BT connectivity issue or if the software just breaks the connection if it's not being used. 



And with that, I'm done. 
I've actually spent the last 3 nights on this thing specifically with the muting outputs problem (problem, IMHO).
I've honestly tried _really_ hard to make sure that what I've said above is accurate and I hope I didn't leave any stone unturned or worse, just flat out misrepresent something. If anyone has any questions I'll do my best to answer. 

Hopefully the above can help some people set up their systems or possibly even help those who have noticed muting occur with their systems.

- Erin


----------



## bassfromspace

bikinpunk said:


> Grab some coffee and strap in. This is about to be waaaaay too long winded. And with videos to boot!
> 
> 
> 
> The Mosconi DSP has an interesting 'feature' that turns the output off (or, altogether just mutes the entire unit in/out) when any clipped signal is applied. I tested this with my oscope and found that everytime I neared the clipping with the tones I used (100hz, 1khz, 10khz) going in to the Mosconi, the unit would just mute the outputs. The signal dropped on the scope completely. When I lowered the voltage going in to the 6to8, the unit picked right back up.
> But, I found, too that it's not only an input sensing thing... it does the same if you happen to boost the signal in to clipping in the dsp.
> 
> When I first noticed this, I had the software output on Ch1 of the DSP software set to 100%. I also had the physical gain knob on the Mosconi set all the way up. The output voltage that the unit would max out at, with the input voltage above is about 4.10 Vrms.
> 
> Next, I decided to use the physical gain knob and see what would happen if I lowered that but still fed a signal >2.22 Vrms to the DSP input.
> I dropped the physical gain pot down on the DSP to about 1/4 from the bottom and then proceeded to adjust the input voltage from about 1v to about 7v P-P (0.353 Vrms to 2.47 V RMS) from the oscope. I made it all the way up to 2.47 Vrms out of the scope, going in to the Mosconi and didn't have any issues, though the unit's preout voltage was only about 2.60 Vrms. So, as long as I didn't clip the signal, all was well.
> 
> Ultimately, it seems the unit I'm using mutes the outputs when you get above roughly 4.10 Vrms with the software set to 100% output. This is pure sinewave.
> When you set the software to any % of that, you get the corresponding voltage decrease. In other words, if you set the software to 50%, the output voltage is maxed at about 2 Vrms and the outputs are muted above that.
> When I adjusted the dsp's output by -0.5db, the unit would mute at about 3.70 Vrms output.
> 
> If I sent it a clipped signal at ANY level, the unit would mute. It looks like any clipped signal at all - whether it be input or output stage - will mute the dsp by design. So, if you somehow feed it a clipped signal - regardless of how clipped it is - the unit will mute. If you drive the unit beyond a point it doesn't want to drive the outputs, it will mute.
> 
> 
> I've shot a video of it to explain what I'm talking about above. Don't knock me for losing my brain at the end. My wife walked outside and gave me one of those "wtf are you doing?" looks and I felt stupid, lol.
> *Please note, that if I happened to call the input voltage RMS, that it is not. The Stingray provides an output voltage in Peak to Peak, which means the maximum output of the stingray is 7 volts P-P or 2.74 Volts RMS, going from the Stingray to the Mosconi input RCAs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I tried to see what would happen when I adjusted the gain on the EQ. I set the EQ about +1dB at 2khz with a Q of 4.00 for this test.
> Then I started to adjust the gain to see where the unit would clip, expecting it to clip early. What I found, instead, was that it didn't mute until I got to about 4.20 Vrms. Interesting. Turns out, the unit actually allows you to boost the EQ up in to square wave but it will quickly stabilize the signal to 4vrms output unclipped. Watch the video below. You'll see.
> 
> So, then I dropped the EQ down 1dB at the same frequency. This time, the unit muted the output at about 3.20 Vrms . So, it seems that attenuating the outputs in any fashion; either by EQ or levels, makes the unit's output lower (naturally) but it is never able to go above the corresponding change. In other words, if you were to tell the unit to drop the output by 1 Vrms at any given frequency or bandwidth, it does it and you can never go higher than the delta of that original 4v-1v = 3 Vrms before the unit cuts off.
> At least, that's the way it seems to me. Video #2 below should help illustrate what I mean more clearly than I can put in to words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is simply an audible illustration of what happens when the unit reaches it's maximum output. In the video, I had the gain attenuated in the software, so you'll see the DSP 'clips' at about 3.60v. Don't pay attention to the number so much as what's going on. I've found the max is indeed just a touch over 4 VRMS as has been stated above.
> 
> Also, I call the 7v p-p "2.47 v rms".... it's really 2.74 v rms but I'm dyslexic (no offense to those who really are dyslexic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> To sum all of this up:*
> This unit does not like clipping of _any_ kind. Period. If it senses a clipped signal coming in _or_ going out, whether full out square or even soft clipping, it mutes the outputs entirely until you turn the voltage down either by volume knob or you adjust a setting on the DSP. The maximum unclipped voltage is a tad over 4 V RMS. Anymore than that and it shuts down the outputs because the unit itself is not capable of providing higher than this 4 Vrms output cleanly*.
> Well, except when you boost the EQ and it normalizes the clipped signal to 4v.
> 
> The real kicker to me is, if you attenuate outputs, it will attenuate FROM THAT 4V mark, so if you attenuate via EQ by the equivalent of 1 Vrms, the voltage output will max at the delta of 4 Vrms and that 1 Vrms , so you'd get a maximum of 3 Vrms and anything above that would mute the unit. Where this bothers me is if one was to set up their system with EQ using only cuts (like I often do)... it would basically hard limit your voltage out below the 4v mark. I don't know 100% that any other unit would allow you to make up the difference with volume, but this unit seems to not allow that at all and just shuts the outputs down rather than allow you to continue going up on the headunit to make up the difference.
> 
> It seems one may even have to re-evaluate their gain structure after making EQ and level changes. If you find don't have enough volume after making adjustments and the system mutes itself, all the gains in the system have to come up at the amps because you can't do it at the headunit or the dsp since if the dsp senses clipping of any sort, it'll mute. This is a problem in some instances specifically where someone has a noisy amp or component. It's only going to be amplified even more because you have to make up for the gain at the amp. This means that if you think this is an issue, you probably will want some power on tap; or a very efficient system (ie: pro audio) to allow you the output you'll need.
> 
> Why does it seems like I'm complaining so much about this where it might be a feature to protect the user? Well, it's simple, really:
> Even if you set up your system properly for a clean signal in to and out of your DSP, there is a strong possibility that at some point you'll want to rock out and have some dynamics, this DSP would essentially halt that. I can't guarantee it's going to be a problem and *I'm not saying that everyone should freak out and riot like you just won a Championship*. What I am saying is that you may really want to either a) be aware of this issue in case you happen to find your system mutes and you have no idea why and/or b) keep this in mind when you install your system and keep in mind the gain structure. A headunit that doesn't put out clean voltage all the way up will clip.
> Somewhat odd but worth considering: How might heavily compressed music treat this? If you have music that is clipping, then will that present a problem to this piece in regards to it shutting down the outputs? Just something to consider, that's all I'm saying.
> 
> Long story short, I do not like a piece of hardware making decisions for me. If I did, I'd just stick with an auto-tune device and never look back. I would personally rather have the dang thing send a clipped output on to the amps because I'm a responsible adult (as opposed to a bass head kid) and I understand there is certainly a degree of tolerance when it comes to audibility of distortion and clipped signals. I don't need a piece of hardware to limit my interaction with a system; let me face the consequence of a clipped signal... I promise, I can handle it.
> 
> At this point, it is what it is. This may or may not be an issue to the end user and so far there seems to be a lot of happy folks with it. John, my buddy, seems to be really happy with his and Ive asked him to throw some volume at it to try to make it mute but so far he seems to be very happy with it and hasn't been able to mute it. But, I've also had people tell me they've actually been limited in output because of this very issue, while demo'ing the system nonetheless. So, take it for what it's worth: a finding on a feature of the DSP. That's all I can really provide. Truth be told, I really like this piece. I just have this gripe (and a couple minor others listed at the end of this post).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Moving on...*
> 
> *After all that was said and done, I decided to do a few spot checks on the accuracy of the DSP. *
> 
> First up was a few simple sweeps which showed a ruler flat FR from 20-20khz. Good. Exactly what you'd expect.
> Second was to test the unit's standard features such as crossover, and EQ accuracy. Both pretty much nailed what they were supposed to do.
> 
> My little makeshift test setup was using TrueRTA at 1/24th octave and therefore using the high Q values (40) wasn't quite measurable. It's a simple Q to Octave spacing measurement:
> Q factor bandwidth in octaves filter calculator formula bandwidth - quality factor Q to bandwidth per octave width convert filter BW octave mastering slope dB/oct steepness - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
> The highest Q one can measure at 1/24 is roughly 36. I say that only to say that I did type in the maximum Q of 40 and it looked to be doing what it should, though the resolution of trueRTA didn't permit me to see the bandwidth fully and therefore cut off some of the result. Make sense? How about this... if you try to measure a Q of 40 with software that only allows you to measure in 1/3 octave, you won't be able to see the full boost/cut you used simply because the spacing of octaves at 1/3 resolution doesn't allow it. In other words, it's a resolution issue. If I give you a picture with 1 million pixels but you can only view 1,000 pixels, you won't see the full image in the form it was given.
> 
> The crossover values I tried, which consisted of high pass, low pass, shelving and variable Q all did EXACTLY what they were supposed to.
> Then, I varied the attenuation level and compared what I typed in to what actually was output and it was dead on.
> 
> So, whoever it was that said these units don't do what they are commanded to do either
> a) Had a bad unit
> b) Does not know what they are doing
> c) Just wanted to increase their post count
> 
> I've attached a picture below illustrating some of the tests mentioned above. It's not to really show anything other than I did what I said I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> *All in all, I really dig this piece. * The features it has are killer and it's about the size of a coke can, but thinner. Pound for pound against current DSPs, I don't believe it can be beat.
> However, I am not a fan of a piece of hardware telling me when it's had too much and muting itself. I realize that it's a protection feature but frankly, _I_ don't like it. I realize, too, that 4.0v rms is pretty high and gain knobs were made for this reason but still... I don't like it. I'm not sure if this has been addressed in a firmware update or not but I hope that the folks at Mosconi will either look in to removing this or provide rationale for why they have this built in. I understand I'm only one guy and I'm not about to change their ways... especially if they have solid reasoning for it. I just don't like it (have I said that yet?).
> 
> Outside of that, there are a few things I wish this unit could provide.
> 
> 
> Number one is finer attenuation on output level. 0.5dB is why I sold the Helix processors and why I might just wind up selling this one and keeping with the P99 for now. Yes, it makes that much of a difference to me. I know, I know...
> I would like to have phase variability but I understand the DSP simply may not be powerful enough for this.
> 
> The huge benefit here, to me, though is the ability to vary the Q in the equalization up to 40. That's a very fine bandwidth and will help _IMMENSELY_ with low frequency resolution via taming modes. That has to be the number one issue with nearly every car audio system I hear and home audio nuts suffer from it as well, though, luckily not as badly unless they're in a listening room the size of a closet.
> 
> On the flip side, the ability to only attenuate 12dB is simply not enough to really go after some modes and I implore the folks at Mosconi to give us the ability to have much further attenuation (ie: 30dB or the like for those serious modes) if the DSP itself will allow it.
> There seems to be a bug when adjusting the EQ. It seems that moving the attenuation/boosting around in the paragraphic isn't responsive at all sometimes and you have to reset the frequency to get it to act right again. I didn't notice a specific sequence of events that causes it... just pointing out what I noticed.
> One last thing that really irks me is the time it takes for this unit to update when changes are made. It's like pulling teeth.
> Additionally, I found through my testing that sometimes the Mosconi loses connection now and again. It'll be up and connected on Com8 via BT, then not connected. I have to restart the s/w to get it working again. Not exactly sure if this is a BT connectivity issue or if the software just breaks the connection if it's not being used.
> 
> 
> 
> And with that, I'm done.
> I've actually spent the last 3 nights on this thing specifically with the muting outputs problem (problem, IMHO).
> I've honestly tried _really_ hard to make sure that what I've said above is accurate and I hope I didn't leave any stone unturned or worse, just flat out misrepresent something. If anyone has any questions I'll do my best to answer.
> 
> Hopefully the above can help some people set up their systems or possibly even help those who have noticed muting occur with their systems.
> 
> - Erin


Excellent work and thanks for the review!


----------



## strakele

Mine will also occasionally lose connection when using Bluetooth as well. Not sure what causes it. Will update if the new firmware changes it. Zero issues with USB.

I have a fairly detailed overview of the software in the works that will be posted shortly.


----------



## decibelle

Outstanding review Erin. I agree strongly, with the good and bad alike. I've had my fair share of frustration from the unit auto muting at, at least what I felt were, relatively low levels. other than that, there was not much more to gripe about. It's a great DSP.


----------



## ErinH

strakele said:


> Mine will also occasionally lose connection when using Bluetooth as well. Not sure what causes it. Will update if the new firmware changes it. Zero issues with USB.
> 
> I have a fairly detailed overview of the software in the works that will be posted shortly.


I'm using FW 1.10. I was told that the SW is what really drives the update and if I'm using 1.72 software then I'm good. Just putting it out there. LMK if you notice the BT issues being resolved once you get yours back.



millerlyte said:


> Outstanding review Erin. I agree strongly, with the good and bad alike. I've had my fair share of frustration from the unit auto muting at, at least what I felt were, relatively low levels. other than that, there was not much more to gripe about. It's a great DSP.


Thanks for backing me up, Ally. 
I didn't want to name names but yours was one that I was aware of muting on occasion. It brings credence to the idea that this 'science project' may very well bear fruit in the 'real world'.


----------



## Coupon

bikinpunk said:


> Grab some coffee and strap in. This is about to be waaaaay too long winded. And with videos to boot!
> 
> 
> 
> The Mosconi DSP has an interesting 'feature' that turns the output off (or, altogether just mutes the entire unit in/out) when any clipped signal is applied. I tested this with my oscope and found that everytime I neared the clipping with the tones I used (100hz, 1khz, 10khz) going in to the Mosconi, the unit would just mute the outputs. The signal dropped on the scope completely. When I lowered the voltage going in to the 6to8, the unit picked right back up.
> But, I found, too that it's not only an input sensing thing... it does the same if you happen to boost the signal in to clipping in the dsp.
> 
> When I first noticed this, I had the software output on Ch1 of the DSP software set to 100%. I also had the physical gain knob on the Mosconi set all the way up. The output voltage that the unit would max out at, with the input voltage above is about 4.10 Vrms.
> 
> Next, I decided to use the physical gain knob and see what would happen if I lowered that but still fed a signal >2.22 Vrms to the DSP input.
> I dropped the physical gain pot down on the DSP to about 1/4 from the bottom and then proceeded to adjust the input voltage from about 1v to about 7v P-P (0.353 Vrms to 2.47 V RMS) from the oscope. I made it all the way up to 2.47 Vrms out of the scope, going in to the Mosconi and didn't have any issues, though the unit's preout voltage was only about 2.60 Vrms. So, as long as I didn't clip the signal, all was well.
> 
> Ultimately, it seems the unit I'm using mutes the outputs when you get above roughly 4.10 Vrms with the software set to 100% output. This is pure sinewave.
> When you set the software to any % of that, you get the corresponding voltage decrease. In other words, if you set the software to 50%, the output voltage is maxed at about 2 Vrms and the outputs are muted above that.
> When I adjusted the dsp's output by -0.5db, the unit would mute at about 3.70 Vrms output.
> 
> If I sent it a clipped signal at ANY level, the unit would mute. It looks like any clipped signal at all - whether it be input or output stage - will mute the dsp by design. So, if you somehow feed it a clipped signal - regardless of how clipped it is - the unit will mute. If you drive the unit beyond a point it doesn't want to drive the outputs, it will mute.
> 
> 
> I've shot a video of it to explain what I'm talking about above. Don't knock me for losing my brain at the end. My wife walked outside and gave me one of those "wtf are you doing?" looks and I felt stupid, lol.
> *Please note, that if I happened to call the input voltage RMS, that it is not. The Stingray provides an output voltage in Peak to Peak, which means the maximum output of the stingray is 7 volts P-P or 2.74 Volts RMS, going from the Stingray to the Mosconi input RCAs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, I tried to see what would happen when I adjusted the gain on the EQ. I set the EQ about +1dB at 2khz with a Q of 4.00 for this test.
> Then I started to adjust the gain to see where the unit would clip, expecting it to clip early. What I found, instead, was that it didn't mute until I got to about 4.20 Vrms. Interesting. Turns out, the unit actually allows you to boost the EQ up in to square wave but it will quickly stabilize the signal to 4vrms output unclipped. Watch the video below. You'll see.
> 
> So, then I dropped the EQ down 1dB at the same frequency. This time, the unit muted the output at about 3.20 Vrms . So, it seems that attenuating the outputs in any fashion; either by EQ or levels, makes the unit's output lower (naturally) but it is never able to go above the corresponding change. In other words, if you were to tell the unit to drop the output by 1 Vrms at any given frequency or bandwidth, it does it and you can never go higher than the delta of that original 4v-1v = 3 Vrms before the unit cuts off.
> At least, that's the way it seems to me. Video #2 below should help illustrate what I mean more clearly than I can put in to words.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This video is simply an audible illustration of what happens when the unit reaches it's maximum output. In the video, I had the gain attenuated in the software, so you'll see the DSP 'clips' at about 3.60v. Don't pay attention to the number so much as what's going on. I've found the max is indeed just a touch over 4 VRMS as has been stated above.
> 
> Also, I call the 7v p-p "2.47 v rms".... it's really 2.74 v rms but I'm dyslexic (no offense to those who really are dyslexic).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> To sum all of this up:*
> This unit does not like clipping of _any_ kind. Period. If it senses a clipped signal coming in _or_ going out, whether full out square or even soft clipping, it mutes the outputs entirely until you turn the voltage down either by volume knob or you adjust a setting on the DSP. The maximum unclipped voltage is a tad over 4 V RMS. Anymore than that and it shuts down the outputs because the unit itself is not capable of providing higher than this 4 Vrms output cleanly*.
> Well, except when you boost the EQ and it normalizes the clipped signal to 4v.
> 
> The real kicker to me is, if you attenuate outputs, it will attenuate FROM THAT 4V mark, so if you attenuate via EQ by the equivalent of 1 Vrms, the voltage output will max at the delta of 4 Vrms and that 1 Vrms , so you'd get a maximum of 3 Vrms and anything above that would mute the unit. Where this bothers me is if one was to set up their system with EQ using only cuts (like I often do)... it would basically hard limit your voltage out below the 4v mark. I don't know 100% that any other unit would allow you to make up the difference with volume, but this unit seems to not allow that at all and just shuts the outputs down rather than allow you to continue going up on the headunit to make up the difference.
> 
> It seems one may even have to re-evaluate their gain structure after making EQ and level changes. If you find don't have enough volume after making adjustments and the system mutes itself, all the gains in the system have to come up at the amps because you can't do it at the headunit or the dsp since if the dsp senses clipping of any sort, it'll mute. This is a problem in some instances specifically where someone has a noisy amp or component. It's only going to be amplified even more because you have to make up for the gain at the amp. This means that if you think this is an issue, you probably will want some power on tap; or a very efficient system (ie: pro audio) to allow you the output you'll need.
> 
> Why does it seems like I'm complaining so much about this where it might be a feature to protect the user? Well, it's simple, really:
> Even if you set up your system properly for a clean signal in to and out of your DSP, there is a strong possibility that at some point you'll want to rock out and have some dynamics, this DSP would essentially halt that. I can't guarantee it's going to be a problem and *I'm not saying that everyone should freak out and riot like you just won a Championship*. What I am saying is that you may really want to either a) be aware of this issue in case you happen to find your system mutes and you have no idea why and/or b) keep this in mind when you install your system and keep in mind the gain structure. A headunit that doesn't put out clean voltage all the way up will clip.
> Somewhat odd but worth considering: How might heavily compressed music treat this? If you have music that is clipping, then will that present a problem to this piece in regards to it shutting down the outputs? Just something to consider, that's all I'm saying.
> 
> Long story short, I do not like a piece of hardware making decisions for me. If I did, I'd just stick with an auto-tune device and never look back. I would personally rather have the dang thing send a clipped output on to the amps because I'm a responsible adult (as opposed to a bass head kid) and I understand there is certainly a degree of tolerance when it comes to audibility of distortion and clipped signals. I don't need a piece of hardware to limit my interaction with a system; let me face the consequence of a clipped signal... I promise, I can handle it.
> 
> At this point, it is what it is. This may or may not be an issue to the end user and so far there seems to be a lot of happy folks with it. John, my buddy, seems to be really happy with his and Ive asked him to throw some volume at it to try to make it mute but so far he seems to be very happy with it and hasn't been able to mute it. But, I've also had people tell me they've actually been limited in output because of this very issue, while demo'ing the system nonetheless. So, take it for what it's worth: a finding on a feature of the DSP. That's all I can really provide. Truth be told, I really like this piece. I just have this gripe (and a couple minor others listed at the end of this post).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Moving on...*
> 
> *After all that was said and done, I decided to do a few spot checks on the accuracy of the DSP. *
> 
> First up was a few simple sweeps which showed a ruler flat FR from 20-20khz. Good. Exactly what you'd expect.
> Second was to test the unit's standard features such as crossover, and EQ accuracy. Both pretty much nailed what they were supposed to do.
> 
> My little makeshift test setup was using TrueRTA at 1/24th octave and therefore using the high Q values (40) wasn't quite measurable. It's a simple Q to Octave spacing measurement:
> Q factor bandwidth in octaves filter calculator formula bandwidth - quality factor Q to bandwidth per octave width convert filter BW octave mastering slope dB/oct steepness - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
> The highest Q one can measure at 1/24 is roughly 36. I say that only to say that I did type in the maximum Q of 40 and it looked to be doing what it should, though the resolution of trueRTA didn't permit me to see the bandwidth fully and therefore cut off some of the result. Make sense? How about this... if you try to measure a Q of 40 with software that only allows you to measure in 1/3 octave, you won't be able to see the full boost/cut you used simply because the spacing of octaves at 1/3 resolution doesn't allow it. In other words, it's a resolution issue. If I give you a picture with 1 million pixels but you can only view 1,000 pixels, you won't see the full image in the form it was given.
> 
> The crossover values I tried, which consisted of high pass, low pass, shelving and variable Q all did EXACTLY what they were supposed to.
> Then, I varied the attenuation level and compared what I typed in to what actually was output and it was dead on.
> 
> So, whoever it was that said these units don't do what they are commanded to do either
> a) Had a bad unit
> b) Does not know what they are doing
> c) Just wanted to increase their post count
> 
> I've attached a picture below illustrating some of the tests mentioned above. It's not to really show anything other than I did what I said I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> 
> *All in all, I really dig this piece. * The features it has are killer and it's about the size of a coke can, but thinner. Pound for pound against current DSPs, I don't believe it can be beat.
> However, I am not a fan of a piece of hardware telling me when it's had too much and muting itself. I realize that it's a protection feature but frankly, _I_ don't like it. I realize, too, that 4.0v rms is pretty high and gain knobs were made for this reason but still... I don't like it. I'm not sure if this has been addressed in a firmware update or not but I hope that the folks at Mosconi will either look in to removing this or provide rationale for why they have this built in. I understand I'm only one guy and I'm not about to change their ways... especially if they have solid reasoning for it. I just don't like it (have I said that yet?).
> 
> Outside of that, there are a few things I wish this unit could provide.
> 
> 
> Number one is finer attenuation on output level. 0.5dB is why I sold the Helix processors and why I might just wind up selling this one and keeping with the P99 for now. Yes, it makes that much of a difference to me. I know, I know...
> I would like to have phase variability but I understand the DSP simply may not be powerful enough for this.
> 
> The huge benefit here, to me, though is the ability to vary the Q in the equalization up to 40. That's a very fine bandwidth and will help _IMMENSELY_ with low frequency resolution via taming modes. That has to be the number one issue with nearly every car audio system I hear and home audio nuts suffer from it as well, though, luckily not as badly unless they're in a listening room the size of a closet.
> 
> On the flip side, the ability to only attenuate 12dB is simply not enough to really go after some modes and I implore the folks at Mosconi to give us the ability to have much further attenuation (ie: 30dB or the like for those serious modes) if the DSP itself will allow it.
> There seems to be a bug when adjusting the EQ. It seems that moving the attenuation/boosting around in the paragraphic isn't responsive at all sometimes and you have to reset the frequency to get it to act right again. I didn't notice a specific sequence of events that causes it... just pointing out what I noticed.
> One last thing that really irks me is the time it takes for this unit to update when changes are made. It's like pulling teeth.
> Additionally, I found through my testing that sometimes the Mosconi loses connection now and again. It'll be up and connected on Com8 via BT, then not connected. I have to restart the s/w to get it working again. Not exactly sure if this is a BT connectivity issue or if the software just breaks the connection if it's not being used.
> 
> 
> 
> And with that, I'm done.
> I've actually spent the last 3 nights on this thing specifically with the muting outputs problem (problem, IMHO).
> I've honestly tried _really_ hard to make sure that what I've said above is accurate and I hope I didn't leave any stone unturned or worse, just flat out misrepresent something. If anyone has any questions I'll do my best to answer.
> 
> Hopefully the above can help some people set up their systems or possibly even help those who have noticed muting occur with their systems.
> 
> - Erin


Well done, Erin!!

Couldn't ask for a more detail review than this.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> *A headunit that doesn't put out clean voltage all the way up will clip.
> 
> Somewhat odd but worth considering: How might heavily compressed music treat this? If you have music that is clipping, then will that present a problem to this piece in regards to it shutting down the outputs?* Just something to consider, that's all I'm saying.
> 
> - Erin


Excellent review Erin, thanks.

One thing to note about how the unit handles "clipping". Your clipping test only determines the max voltage that the dsp is set up to accept referenced to the given gain pot setting. The pot you adjust is a +/- xdB preamp that allows you to attenuate a signal that is higher than 2 volts or add analog gain to one that is below two volts. Any clipped music you send to it will be seen no different then the full scale tone you used to find those max limits. 

IOW, it's not sensing a clipped music waveform at the input stage. It is sensing a clipped overloaded ADC stage.

This feature could be a problem when playing a song that does not hit the 0dB mark. In that case, you have to turn the head unit higher then the setting you found to clip the inputs of the 6to8. But the problem is that you don't know in what part of the song is it that the high peak will come. So you turn it up till that song is loud enough, then half way through the first true dynamic peak comes along and the music cuts off. Kind of a pain.

Maybe the DSP only reacts that way to sustained clipping on the input. Maybe it won't be so sensitive to transients that come and go very quickly.


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## MarkZ

"Short" review.


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## bertholomey

I'll need to spend a little more time with the write up and the videos to 'grasp' everything (got to catch a flight to Tampa). 

I would like to understand the very best way to set up the gain structure (software, pots on dsp, amps) so a user could get the most out of the unit. Great use of video to explain these findings Erin.


----------



## t3sn4f2

bikinpunk said:


> So, then I dropped the EQ down 1dB at the same frequency. This time, the unit muted the output at about 3.20 Vrms . So, it seems that attenuating the outputs in any fashion; either by EQ or levels, makes the unit's output lower (naturally) but it is never able to go above the corresponding change. In other words, if you were to tell the unit to drop the output by 1 Vrms at any given frequency or bandwidth, it does it and you can never go higher than the delta of that original 4v-1v = 3 Vrms before the unit cuts off.
> 
> At least, that's the way it seems to me. Video #2 below should help illustrate what I mean more clearly than I can put in to words.
> 
> 
> - Erin


But when you cut a band you still get 4 volts anywhere out of that affected passband don't you? Giving you the 4 volts where you still want it and not needing to rely on more amp gain to make up for the drop?


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## ErinH

t3sn4f2 said:


> But when you cut a band you still get 4 volts anywhere out of that affected passband don't you? Giving you the 4 volts where you still want it and not needing to rely on more amp gain to make up for the drop?


it seems that way. to check, I tested it purposely. 

for example, if I take an undoctored tone of 2khz and play it back, I get 4v unclipped. no eq, gain, nothing. just plain ol setup. 4v out before it mutes.

Now comes the EQ...
when I decrease the output at 2khz via EQ by about 2dB, the outputs mute at about 2.7v. 

If I leave that as is, and just simply play a different tone (in this test case, I just used 254hz), I can get up to about 4v.

So, it doesn't seem that an attenuation of a specific frequency limits the entire passband of that channel you tweaked. It only limits the output of that frequency(s).


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## pionkej

Thanks for the review Erin. I'll share my .02 since I started setting my 6to8 up with a "preview" of the results. I thought this would help me overcome the muting feature, but I never had a problem with it. 

First, the setup:

-Pioneer avh-p8400 (vol goes to 40)
-Mosconi 6to8 (software 1.72/firmware1.2--Erin has 1.1)
-(3) JL HD600/4 (bridged to subs,midbass,wideband--300w per speaker)

I started out with the gain pot (input) on the 6to8 at 0. Software gain (output) at 0. Amps gains bottomed out. At this point I had max volume at 10/40 on the head with no muting. I also had a slight turn-off pop. I wanted to see where things were at so I busted out the DMM and a 1khz tone. I was around 2.2v. I turned the volume up to 20 and got 3.4v (I didn't listen to the output at this level for fear of hurting the drivers). I stopped testing at this point.*

Since I had a slight turn off pop, I turned the gain pot back to -12db. This got rid of the pop and I was able to hit 35/40 for max listening. Gains at the amps were still bottomed out. I increased the head unit volume to 40 and had no muting issues. I did get low-level static between 32-35 on the volume. I stopped completely at this point.*

*I personally had issues with the 6to8 disconnecting from the laptop like mentioned above. However, my issue was via USB and not Bluetooth. Until this morning, I thought it was an issue with the cable wiggling and dropping the signal. I quit the first round of testing because of this. I tried again later in the evening with a different cable and worked on it until it disconnected. At that point I called it quits for good and will test more tonight. 

So, initial thoughts. I have no issue with muting vs output. I actually feel I have an issue with too much gain from the 6to8. With audible pops or static and amp gains bottomed out, I want to drop the DSP gains more. I was going to try attenuating the output side, but when I went to change it, the 6to8 had disconnected from the laptop and that's when I packed it up for the second time. I plan to resume there tonight. 

I listened to the Chesky disc and some compressed/clipped music (Metallica's Death Magnetic) and neither type of music muted the output. Hopefully eases some worry about clipped signals from the music and muting.


----------



## pionkej

bertholomey said:


> I'll need to spend a little more time with the write up and the videos to 'grasp' everything (got to catch a flight to Tampa).
> 
> I would like to understand the very best way to set up the gain structure (software, pots on dsp, amps) so a user could get the most out of the unit. Great use of video to explain these findings Erin.


Personally, I would set the gain pot and output stage to -12db each. Increase the head unit volume until you were happy with the range of volume control. Increase the gain pot until you are happy with the output, you get a noise floor, or the unit mutes itself. If you hit muting first, roll back a bit more for room to make minor EQ boosts. Repeat for output gain. Repeat for amp gain. 

Starting this way you should be able to avoid muting or noise and still get good output.


----------



## strakele

Bing mentioned getting more noise floor/hiss with the 1.72 software that has additional gain built in. I wonder if you would have better results with 1.71


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## pionkej

strakele said:


> Bing mentioned getting more noise floor/hiss with the 1.72 software that has additional gain built in. I wonder if you would have better results with 1.71


Yeah, I saw where he said to start at -12 with the 1.72. I was just starting at 0/0 to see if I hit muting since I knew Erin was trying to get info together. That will be the first thing I do when I work on my actual gain stage tonight and I'll update then. 

I appreciate the heads up though, this thread is moving quick and I could have easily missed that.


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## BigRed

Erin's makes a very "mute" point


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## ErinH

strakele said:


> Bing mentioned getting more noise floor/hiss with the 1.72 software that has additional gain built in. I wonder if you would have better results with 1.71


and it makes sense that this happens. 
but, it may be a sign of a limitation as well. turn up the gain on the dsp to get more output and you get snr issues. 

of course, John said on his headunit so I wonder if the pioneer may be the culprit of this particular problem. I need to learn how to check signal noise with an oscope.


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## decibelle

Perhaps I am slightly too optimistic about it, buuut... as frustrating as the muting is and not being able to really wail on your system when you want to, at least there exists some way to get around it. It did take a lot of tinkering though, which is my main complaint as far as that goes. The reason they seem to have set it that way is somewhat understandable I guess, but no less frustrating. Which is exactly what a DSP shouldn't be. 

Even though there are ways to get loud as **** with the 6to8, it's sort of like the MS8... there's a process to it and you have to kind of help it along. Like getting a dog to follow you by holding a treat in your hand. 

The 6to8 is a wonderful processor and even if they don't fix those issues, I still won't get rid of it... but it sure would make up for one rather upsetting mishap. That said, props to Mosconi for being so quick to update their software and fix user-reported issues. They don't miss a beat


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## simplicityinsound

just wanna give my two bits...though i am not a technical person at all...just real world experience on that particular thing.

on the four that i have installed.

i knew about the "muting" issue going in....having been told at at CES that it has a protection feature where before it clips, it will mute at the threshold of clipping. this means the chances of a customer messing it up and blowing things up is very much reduced. 

i have had ZERO issues with not having enough volume on the installs. 

give you an example, on this car:

Just thought I'd share the lastest G install from me  - MyG37

oem headunit, gains adjusted so muting, the midbass gain on the amp is 1/4 up, the mid and tweet gain are bottomed out on the amp, sub its dependant on the controller. and it gets loud enough that i wouldnt want to sit in the car for too long at that level.

compare to similar amps on this car with a jbl ms8:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...mw-335d-install-mosconi-gladen-morel-jbl.html

the gain knobs are almost identical on the amp. with the ms8.

on the other three 6to8 cars, i experienced the same thing. never had a problem with volume....4 volts true rms output seems to be enough for the amps.

here is my take on it. on most cars, you should be perfectly fine running it as is...the issue with a secondary input source having a hugely diffferent input voltage causing volume problems or muting, it should be easily sovlable. if you use say, high level inputs from an oem headunit on primary input and a rca line level input source on aux, you can always compensate by pressing the hi/lo button to the appropriate setting and adjust that channels input gain (they are indepently adjustable) to match. i thought about this as on this current build, thats exactly what is going to happen. you can also make two presets one for one source and one for the other to best match the output level of each source.

if you are really desperate for voltage, you can always get a linedriver post 6ot8 

b


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings All!!

Thank you Erin for all of your hard work. I am sure that everyone on the site is very appreciative for your insight and opinions, as I am!

Since I am currently at Orca, I decided to do a little bit of testing yesterday just to see exactly what the unit can or cannot do. The spec's that I posted last night are indicative of what we got on our test bench here. The really impressive thing that we got was the low distortion ratings we got. At 1 millivolt of input we measured less than .005% THD averaged across the 20hz to 20khz range. At .5 volts it was less than .003%THD. In fact up to 4.2V of input we measured less than .003% THD. We were very happy to see that. 

Everything else we tested fell within the listed specs. Now, to the output muting. We know about the muting function and we have asked the folks at Mosconi to look into making a change to rectify the situation. As soon as we get an answer back from them, I will post it on here for everyone to see. 

The intermittent USB connection dropout is a concern for us as well. I experienced this at SBN with more than one car and it almost made me lose my religion!!! So, until this quirk has been addressed, let me make a suggestion to everyone who uses the DSP. Store your work every Ten Minutes or so to keep from losing your work! I finally figured that out at SBN as well. In fact an Email has just been sent to Mosconi addressing our concerns and asking for solutions to these situations. Again, as soon as we hear from Mosconi I will let everyone know.

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi America


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## strakele

That's fantastic, thanks Nick!


----------



## ErinH

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings All!!
> 
> Thank you Erin for all of your hard work. I am sure that everyone on the site is very appreciative for your insight and opinions, as I am!
> 
> Since I am currently at Orca, I decided to do a little bit of testing yesterday just to see exactly what the unit can or cannot do. The spec's that I posted last night are indicative of what we got on our test bench here. The really impressive thing that we got was the low distortion ratings we got. At 1 millivolt of input we measured less than .005% THD averaged across the 20hz to 20khz range. At .5 volts it was less than .003%THD. In fact up to 4.2V of input we measured less than .003% THD. We were very happy to see that.
> 
> Everything else we tested fell within the listed specs. Now, to the output muting. We know about the muting function and we have asked the folks at Mosconi to look into making a change to rectify the situation. As soon as we get an answer back from them, I will post it on here for everyone to see.
> 
> The intermittent USB connection dropout is a concern for us as well. I experienced this at SBN with more than one car and it almost made me lose my religion!!! So, until this quirk has been addressed, let me make a suggestion to everyone who uses the DSP. Store your work every Ten Minutes or so to keep from losing your work! I finally figured that out at SBN as well. In fact an Email has just been sent to Mosconi addressing our concerns and asking for solutions to these situations. Again, as soon as we hear from Mosconi I will let everyone know.
> 
> Nick Wingate
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal/Mosconi America



Awesome. Thanks for the reply. You have no idea how many times I have to fear a backlash from a manufacturer/rep when I post up information and reviews such as the one above. Glad to see you guys are working toward a solution and thanks for the confirmation.

Wish I had the means/gear to test more thoroughly, but for now I have to rock a voltage divider and hope for the best. I really want an Audio Precision unit but can't afford the $2k for even the entry pieces. 

Erin


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## decibelle

Thank you Nick. We all really appreciate the time you take to keep us updated with what's going on with the DSP.


----------



## stuckinok

bikinpunk said:


> Awesome. Thanks for the reply. You have no idea how many times I have to fear a backlash from a manufacturer/rep when I post up information and reviews such as the one above. Glad to see you guys are working toward a solution and thanks for the confirmation.
> 
> Wish I had the means/gear to test more thoroughly, but for now I have to rock a voltage divider and hope for the best. I really want an Audio Precision unit but can't afford the $2k for even the entry pieces.
> 
> Erin


I would hope they didn't backlash against you considering you called it the pound for pound best dsp. Lol


----------



## killahsharksjc

My system as it sits right now.. Alpine W505 headunit.. Mosconi DSP6to8.. Massive D800.4 > ID XS28 tweeters + ID CX62.v2 mids .. Massive D2400.1 > JL Audio 10W7 

My .02 ...... I've had my DSP6to8 installed and running in a daily driver since late Febuary... I play with it almost every day.. I ran Alpine PDX amps at first... gains on both amps were all the way down. gain pots on the 6to8 to about halfway. 4 notches away from "muting" .. I had more then enough volume... It got freakin loud.. floor noise wasnt an issue at all.. No turn off or on pops.. =).. The software didnt have no issues with the usb cable dropping the connection when i used it that way... or with the BT either.. 

now Im running the Massive amps and still no issues.. Gains on the tweeter channels of the amp is two notches up from all the way down. ( level matched with the 2ohm Mids) the rest are all the way down.. I can get about half way on the 6to8 gain pots before i feel like its hurting anything.. And it gets loud.. I cant get it to "mute" without hurting the speakers.. I updated to the newest software and it bumped the gain up on the DSP alot.. I had to turn the gain pots down a little.. lol.. Instead of my max volume on the w505 being at 30.. it was more at 13 with the update.. The BT works great both on the PC and my Android device.. I havent used the USB cable latley so Im not sure if it has any issues.. Everything else works perfect.. 

The only thing i would complain about and its not the biggest issue for me is the "taking forever to load data between the devices when you first connect to it.. other then that I love my 6to8.. It does everything ill ever need it to do..


----------



## killahsharksjc

Killahsharksjc system demo - YouTube


----------



## cobb2819

stuckinok said:


> I would hope they didn't backlash against you considering you called it the pound for pound best dsp. Lol


This isn't a fair statement due to it's tiny size and light weight!! hahaha.


----------



## mclaren1885

Guys, sorry for the silly question. 

But what all does the Android App allow you to do?

Does it allow switching of sources as well? Would be really helpful if someone could list down all that is possible with the Android App.


----------



## basher8621

Volume, Sub output, fade, balance, select pre-set.


----------



## cobb2819

mclaren1885 said:


> Guys, sorry for the silly question.
> 
> But what all does the Android App allow you to do?
> 
> Does it allow switching of sources as well? Would be really helpful if someone could list down all that is possible with the Android App.


Presets, Master Volume, Sub Level, Balance and Fader IIRC

And Basher beat me to it, haha


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings All!!

Just to let everyone on here know what kind of equipment we used to measure the 6 to 8 this is the measuring devices:

Audio Precision System ONE + DSP 

Audio Precision DCX-127 switching power supply

Audio Precision AUX-0025 switching amp measurement filter


Nick


----------



## Coppertone

^^^ Thank you for the updated information.


----------



## mclaren1885

Thanks a ton for the quick reply @cobb2819 and @basher8621. I have a Google Nexus S and wanted to understand what exactly the Android App can do 

I am in the fix of deciding if I should get the 6to8 for my car by next week and some of the reviews on this thread are of great help 

Coming from a country like India, where technically sound people in ICE are just a handful, it makes it really tough for us to understand the stuff and honest reviews on DIYMA makes it easier for some of us to take the plunge and invest $ on ICE. 

Would really appreciate it, if the guys who have used the 6to8 also chip in their views on this thread. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...oni-6to8-dsp-better-sq-chevy.html#post1608659

Currently, the only missing piece in my install is deciding on the source unit and the OEM HU controlling the factory settings is kinda giving me a nightmare. 

Looking forward to the inputs from you guys. Thanks in advance. 

Cheers,
Rahul.


----------



## simplicityinsound

Nick the android app does everything the controller does correct?

i am debating on instead of running a conroller for this car, simply pick up a used android phone and have it in the car purely as a controller.

the main advantage of this is a bigger screen and being able to control, mute turn sub on and off while outside the car or away from the front seat. 

b


----------



## killahsharksjc

As for the Android app.. it connects great.. stays connected for long periods of time.. works as advertised. I really only use it to show off to my friends... Its not a big issue for me but the sliders for the volume and sub controls are not the most resposive to my finger on my touch screen... if i want to make a small adjustment i have to swipe it back and forth a little to get it where i want... a up and down button would be nice.. If you have big fat fingers it might be an issue.. cough cough Bing...


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Hey Bing!!! I wish I had time to come visit you. Im in SoCal this week at Orca doing some work for the launch of Illusion Audio,( yes its finally going to launch), and I would love to talk and see your newest creation. Oh well, LOL!

The Andriod app does everything the controller does. No difference in functions as far as I know. I will defer to those who have actually used the app with their phones. 

I will be getting news tomorrow on some new goodies that are coming from Mosconi for this piece in the very near future. As soon as I know what they are I will let you know!

Nick


----------



## simplicityinsound

Nick you may get your chance, i am hoping you would come out after this car is done to help me tune it 

b


----------



## cobb2819

Mitsu1grn said:


> Im in SoCal this week at Orca doing some work for the launch of Illusion Audio,( yes its finally going to launch)


are you sure??


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Mitsu1grn

Hey Cobb!! Call me at Orca today


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Awesome. Thanks for the reply. You have no idea how many times I have to fear a backlash from a manufacturer/rep when I post up information and reviews such as the one above. Glad to see you guys are working toward a solution and thanks for the confirmation.
> 
> Wish I had the means/gear to test more thoroughly, but for now I have to rock a voltage divider and hope for the best. I really want an Audio Precision unit but can't afford the $2k for even the entry pieces.
> 
> Erin


Did you do what we talked about?


----------



## cobb2819

Mitsu1grn said:


> Hey Cobb!! Call me at Orca today


Ok. Do you have an extension???


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## simplicityinsound

i have full confidence in illusion audio's launch


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Hey if anyone wants to help me do these owners manuals for Illusion, feel free to email me and Ill be more than happy to share the load!!!

Nick


----------



## ErinH

I'll do it if you give me one of your Audio Precision units.  



Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## ErinH

Nick,
Any input or thoughts regarding these suggestions being implemented in future updates? 

The first and third bullets seem like they may be somewhat easy to do. 





bikinpunk said:


> Outside of that, there are a few things I wish this unit could provide.
> 
> 
> Number one is finer attenuation on output level. 0.5dB is why I sold the Helix processors and why I might just wind up selling this one and keeping with the P99 for now. Yes, it makes that much of a difference to me. I know, I know...
> 
> Ideally I'd like to have finer attenuation control. At least for a midrange or tweeter channel where you're more sensitive to amplitude differences between left and right.
> 
> I would like to have phase variability but I understand the DSP simply may not be powerful enough for this.
> Helix allows his on their subwoofer channels and I really liked that. Would be nice if you guys could do that too and maybe even add it for midbass channels for finer matching of phase on the low end.
> 
> The huge benefit here, to me, though is the ability to vary the Q in the equalization up to 40. That's a very fine bandwidth and will help _IMMENSELY_ with low frequency resolution via taming modes. That has to be the number one issue with nearly every car audio system I hear and home audio nuts suffer from it as well, though, luckily not as badly unless they're in a listening room the size of a closet.
> 
> On the flip side, the ability to only attenuate 12dB is simply not enough to really go after some modes and I implore the folks at Mosconi to give us the ability to have much further attenuation (ie: 30dB or the like for those serious modes) for at least the subwoofer and midbass channels where is very much needed if the DSP itself will allow it.
> 
> 
> - Erin





Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## marvnmars

Mitsu1grn said:


> Hey if anyone wants to help me do these owners manuals for Illusion, feel free to email me and Ill be more than happy to share the load!!!
> 
> Nick


slide me a 6 to 8, the blutooth adapter, and one of those gladen 6chan amps (for testing pirposes only of course) and i'm in..


----------



## cobb2819

Mitsu1grn said:


> Hey if anyone wants to help me do these owners manuals for Illusion, feel free to email me and Ill be more than happy to share the load!!!
> 
> Nick


Negative. I will, however, say thanks for your time this morning!!


----------



## stuckinok

Uh I need to get my 6to8 in already.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Erin, I will pass on the recommendation on the finer adjustments on the unit. As to variable phase, you were correct, the DSP will not let that happen. Only so much that it will allow to take place.

As to the mode issue, I would just about bet the farm that you can take care of some of the modes with the Notch filter employed. I know it may not be the ideal way of doing it for some people but it should do the trick!


Nick


----------



## E30 Racer

Erin,

When you performed your tests, did you look into how the low/high input voltage switch on the 6to8 affected the results? I suspect you were using the low voltage configuration (default, as-delivered). When I used that setting, my experience was similar to yours. However, use of the high voltage setting improved the situation dramatically. I have yet to auto mute and the output is good....the system plays loud and clear!


----------



## stuckinok

Okay so I got it installed and running. OMG right now it's running cal26ti tweets with rainbow slc mids and midbass. The sound is amazing. I'll almost too scared to mess with the eq and time alignment. It sounds great. I've played some of audionutz CDs and was having a blast in my truck. I can't wait to get my Micro Precision set in.


----------



## ErinH

someone want to tell me why my mosconi told me it was running firmware 8.8 all of a sudden? I had to reboot it (turn the car off/on) to get it to show 1.1 again. it just up and did it.

also, wtf is with the 'mute' feature? 
why is it that muting a channel makes it loud as crap, and unmuting it makes it quiet (but still playing)? the quiet portion is the level it should be playing at. it's like there's an internal gain fault in the dsp somewhere. additionally, I notice that when I am loading presets it'll be at the volume I have everything set up for... then it'll kick in to overdrive and be a LOT louder.. then go back to normal. the gain pot on the dsp is set to (-)12dB. 

copy data to console after reboot often results in an error for EVERY preset, even though I am only actively using Preset 1. it takes a couple tries to get it to work right.

and the last thing for the night...
why when I push the down button to attenuate a level (in eq or levels, it doesn't matter) does the button on the screen stick and attenuate until I might as well put a cricket in the car? sometimes I can stop it before it gets too far (ie: -8dB is usually where I can stop it if I catch it quick enough), but I've also had it just flat out freeze up because of this. 

then when I restart the dsp, if I had a channel muted, it'll come up @ -127.5dB... 
I'm running FW 1.1, fwiw.

this stuff is so jacked up, it's not even funny.


----------



## simplicityinsound

man i must be the king of luck with DSPs lol people seem to have problems with all kinds of processors, i go through them by the dozens and have nary an issue  and i have a low tolerance for issues because i cannot have customers coming back all the time telling me to fix their dsp.

but muting on mine mutes it, not turn it up super loud, and -127.5 db is mute basically.

i do notice that when you are copying presets, if the destination preset is not yet imprinted at the right level, it will revert to that preset's levels (usually loud) before it goes into the new preset's volume. i didnt notice it when switching to the next preset.

the sticking button thing...not sure if thats a software or computer glitch, i have never seen that...i know if you press and hold the button down it will go up by a certain amount and since there is a slight delay, it will cuase it to appear to be sticking. but if you just click once, it will go up by .5 db or .1 if you are in the parametric window.



p.s. you running the latest software?


----------



## bertholomey

I hate that your having all of these problems. I was playing with mine at 10 last night, and I was loving it - I guess I have 'accepted' the quirks that I listed below.



bikinpunk said:


> also, wtf is with the 'mute' feature?
> why is it that muting a channel makes it loud as crap, and unmuting it makes it quiet (but still playing)? the quiet portion is the level it should be playing at. it's like there's an internal gain fault in the dsp somewhere. additionally, I notice that when I am loading presets it'll be at the volume I have everything set up for... then it'll kick in to overdrive and be a LOT louder.. then go back to normal. the gain pot on the dsp is set to (-)12dB.
> 
> *I have not had that problem - I hit the mute button, and it mutes that channel - never had it get loud like that. I haven't seen the issue with the copy of presets - I think I have always paused the HU while it was copying.*
> 
> copy data to console after reboot often results in an error for EVERY preset, even though I am only actively using Preset 1. it takes a couple tries to get it to work right.
> 
> *This is a little frustrating to me - get in the car, turn on the software, 'load to the console', check the preset that I am wanting to use during this session (I'm using all 4 right now), go to level, see all zeros, then load from computer that preset - sends to the dsp.*
> 
> and the last thing for the night...
> why when I push the down button to attenuate a level (in eq or levels, it doesn't matter) does the button on the screen stick and attenuate until I might as well put a cricket in the car? sometimes I can stop it before it gets too far (ie: -8dB is usually where I can stop it if I catch it quick enough), but I've also had it just flat out freeze up because of this.
> 
> *I've noticed this as well - I have to make sure I 'individually' click the button for the amount I want to go up / down or it will continue at will.*
> 
> then when I restart the dsp, if I had a channel muted, it'll come up @ -127.5dB...
> I'm running FW 1.1, fwiw.
> 
> this stuff is so jacked up, it's not even funny.





simplicityinsound said:


> but muting on mine mutes it, not turn it up super loud, and -127.5 db is mute basically.
> 
> the sticking button thing...not sure if thats a software or computer glitch, i have never seen that...i know if you press and hold the button down it will go up by a certain amount and since there is a slight delay, it will cuase it to appear to be sticking. but if you just click once, it will go up by .5 db or .1 if you are in the parametric window.


----------



## cobb2819

I have not run into any problems either. Only quirk I had to adapt to was that I needed to go into preset 1 before plugging in the dsp to copy data to console or else I get an error. Once I started going into the preset and then importing, I was golden.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## simplicityinsound

i have only gotten the presets didnt copy or didnt load thing when i was copying presets, like if i want to make all the presets the same, 1234, sometimes, when i copy 1 to 2, it wouldnt finish...so i basically copy 1 to 3, which always seem to be fine, then 3 to 2, and is always fine. etc

i have never copied anything from console to the dsp i guess...on intial setup, copy settings from dsp to console to view it, then i save to file and if i need the preset repeated on a different preset, i just do a copy preset...


----------



## ErinH

i'm just going to say that I'm not imagining anything. i just got a pm from someone who has the same issue with the mute button. wish he'd post here so people don't think I'm off my rocker. 

using the latest s/w from the site as of last night.

the preset thing is playing that preset while it's loading. so, to make sure my tweeters don't blow the eff up, I had to copy my preset 1 to all the other presets so there would be a crossover on channels 1/2 rather than sending whatever is on those presets by default.


----------



## simplicityinsound

bikinpunk said:


> i'm just going to say that I'm not imagining anything. i just got a pm from someone who has the same issue with the mute button. wish he'd post here so people don't think I'm off my rocker.
> 
> using the latest s/w from the site as of last night.
> 
> the preset thing is playing that preset while it's loading. so, to make sure my tweeters don't blow the eff up, I had to copy my preset 1 to all the other presets so there would be a crossover on channels 1/2 rather than sending whatever is on those presets by default.


oh no ones thinking your imaginging things  at least i dont...its just werid that i have never seen that issue.

I wonder if the latest software has some glitches thats not found on the ealier versions...the last time i updated was two months ago.


----------



## bertholomey

simplicityinsound said:


> oh no ones thinking your imaginging things  at least i dont...its just werid that i have never seen that issue.
> 
> I wonder if the latest software has some glitches thats not found on the ealier versions...the last time i updated was two months ago.


....and I'm being way more cautious than you would think one would need to be (pausing while going from preset to preset, while copying from one preset to another, etc.). One wouldn't think it would have such variability between units. Even though it was a late hour when you were experiencing these things, you certainly weren't imagining them


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## Melodic Acoustic

listen the mute bottom in the software is the issue not the units themselves. Yes I have had the same issue with the mute bottoms. But don't worry I'm sure they will be fixed shortly. 

It is seems when the software was re-coded to add the mute bottoms some things got a little mixed up. If you use the mute bottoms and have this issue you will have to reset the unit to get it back to factory for it to work correctly. I've done/seen this so I know what Erin referring to.


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## simplicityinsound

i would imagine 99 percent of the lil things like this is software, the only thing that i can see not being the software is the delay and "hiccup" in sound when you move the sliders on the eq...but that doesnt bother me that much. other processors i have heard do something similar, i think the zapcos make a clicking sound when you change certain things.

b


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## ErinH

Agreed. I don't think any of this can't be addressed in firmware or software fixes. If I thought otherwise, it wouldn't still be in my car. 
Mosconi seems to be receptive and working continuously on it which alleviates any serious concerns I may otherwise have. 

Though, I will say the clicking sound and delay is an issue when time aligning. I hope they address it. 
That and the delay in the response time within the software itself is annoying. Does it in my PC and my netbook. And the pc is more than capable of running it. It's the same computer I do all my klippel testing on. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

The "mute" problem is something that is being worked on by the software/firmware guys in Europe. They know of the problem,( mine does it intermittently), and we should have a solution in the near future. As to the loading of the software issue, I have learned to be sure to turn down the system before loading everything. I have made the suggestion to the folks in Europe to mute the output on the unit until all of the presets have been loaded. Ill do my best to keep everyone up to date as to when the glitches are worked out.

Nick


----------



## EternalGraphics808

Thanks Nick for all your hard work


----------



## 14642

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> The "mute" problem is something that is being worked on by the software/firmware guys in Europe. They know of the problem,( mine does it intermittently), and we should have a solution in the near future. As to the loading of the software issue, I have learned to be sure to turn down the system before loading everything. I have made the suggestion to the folks in Europe to mute the output on the unit until all of the presets have been loaded. Ill do my best to keep everyone up to date as to when the glitches are worked out.
> 
> Nick


Nick, It's a simple fix to ask them to ramp the volume down between setting changes and then back up. Similarly, instead of implementing the time alignment changes immediately, they can delay them by the value that's currently loaded, so there's no period where the buffer is loading the new setting and not outputting sound (for increasing delay) or loading new data into the buffer while it's still playing what's stored.. This may be what's causing the clicking.


----------



## simplicityinsound

Andy Wehmeyer said:


> Nick, It's a simple fix to ask them to ramp the volume down between setting changes and then back up. Similarly, instead of implementing the time alignment changes immediately, they can delay them by the value that's currently loaded, so there's no period where the buffer is loading the new setting and not outputting sound (for increasing delay) or loading new data into the buffer while it's still playing what's stored.. This may be what's causing the clicking.


but Andy when you are dealing with Ze Germans...things often arent as simple as that  hahaha


----------



## 14642

Depends on which part of Germany...


----------



## ErinH

Alright.. Another issue/bug. 

I set the input EQ. It does fine. When I reconnect the DSP to the software it shows all my input EQ settings as flat and the frequencies I changed are back to default. John said he noticed the same thing. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## pionkej

bikinpunk said:


> Alright.. Another issue/bug.
> 
> I set the input EQ. It does fine. When I reconnect the DSP to the software it shows all my input EQ settings as flat and the frequencies I changed are back to default. John said he noticed the same thing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


Sure did. Also, if you go to the paragraphic subcategory and make a cut, all you can see is -0. and not -0.03 (for example).


----------



## simplicityinsound

hmmm maybe you guys should revert to an older version of the software for now?

if possible, Nick?


----------



## cobb2819

simplicityinsound said:


> hmmm maybe you guys should revert to an older version of the software for now?
> 
> if possible, Nick?


Agreed. I think I'm running 1.72 and no issues at all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## strakele

V 1.77 of the software was just released. My processor is getting the firmware reflashed so I can't test what the updates are.


----------



## ErinH

Sounds like I may need to do that too. 

Though, I thought the firmware updates are included with the new software. That said, I've yet to be prompted to update firmware even though I've got 1.1, it says I've got 1.1 on the software, but I'm told 1.2 is out. So, obviously the firmware update isn't somehow embedded in the software (not that I've ever seen software automatically update firmware as easily as the process is implied). 

All that said, again, I don't believe any of the issues I'm experiencing are firmware issues. Rather, they seem software coding would clean it up. Time for me to refresh my Matlab knowledge. Lol. 

Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## cobb2819

Sounds like we need a couple dealers setup as firmware support for the 6to8


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ErinH

strakele said:


> V 1.77 of the software was just released. My processor is getting the firmware reflashed so I can't test what the updates are.


yep. that's exactly what I'm running.


----------



## decibelle

What exactly is the difference in the new software? I can't seem to find anything that wasn't already there.


----------



## ErinH

you two are killing me with the deleted posts! quit sharing the keyboard! lol.


I have no idea, either. apparently it causes problems... that seems to be the real difference. lol.


----------



## decibelle

He was logged in and I didn't notice.... sorry 

With the exception of the mute button flub, I thought the main issues were due to the firmware, not the new software versions. Am I missing something?


----------



## simplicityinsound

the older software for one, is at a lower output leve, doesnt have the MUTE button, and a few others that may not be different, but simply dont have the glitches of the newest software.

the firmware, i have 1.2 in the one thats currently sitting in the car i am working on now, but have no way to test it before i finish the rest of hte install.

but i was told there are some subtle differences between it and 1.1.

b


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Thanks Andy for the information! Really appreciate it!

As to the software/firmware issues. The firmware upgrade must be made at Orca by Duane on the first units we sold. Anyone that wants to have that done, please contact Orca and talk to Duane about getting it done. What the firmware upgrade does is enables the end user to receive an upgrade via a link on the website for any future firmware upgrades. 

Now, in order for us at Orca to help you guys with the problems you are experiencing we need your help. I need you guys to Email me with the following information:

1) Software version you are using now on the 6 to 8
2) Computer Software and version you are using ( Vista etc......)
3) A detailed message describing what is happening. When it is occurring, does it 
happen every time or randomly? Are you saving your settings each and every 
time you use the 6 to 8? Are you saving it to console or to the unit or to the 
computer? 

Every bit of information you guys can give me will let the software guys get me answers back to you quicker. Anything you think that we need to know, please EMAIL me at [email protected]. Ill do my best to get you answers ASAP!


Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal/Mosconi America


----------



## pionkej

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> Thanks Andy for the information! Really appreciate it!
> 
> As to the software/firmware issues. The firmware upgrade must be made at Orca by Duane on the first units we sold. Anyone that wants to have that done, please contact Orca and talk to Duane about getting it done. What the firmware upgrade does is enables the end user to receive an upgrade via a link on the website for any future firmware upgrades.
> 
> Now, in order for us at Orca to help you guys with the problems you are experiencing we need your help. I need you guys to Email me with the following information:
> 
> 1) Software version you are using now on the 6 to 8
> 2) Computer Software and version you are using ( Vista etc......)
> 3) A detailed message describing what is happening. When it is occurring, does it
> happen every time or randomly? Are you saving your settings each and every
> time you use the 6 to 8? Are you saving it to console or to the unit or to the
> computer?
> 
> Every bit of information you guys can give me will let the software guys get me answers back to you quicker. Anything you think that we need to know, please EMAIL me at [email protected]. Ill do my best to get you answers ASAP!
> 
> 
> Nick Wingate
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal/Mosconi America



Nick,

I sent you an email but wanted to post one of my thoughts here as well to see if it had merit with other 6to8 owners. 

I believe Erin had previously asked if more phase selection points were possible and the answer was that there wasn't enough DSP "ability" left to do it. I'm wondering if an all-pass filter can be added to the crossover/filter section in the software? This would provide users with the ability to adjust/match phase at the crossover point if they chose to burn a filter on it. I'm not sure if it can be done, but I'd like to think if there were room for five filters, one could be selected as an all-pass.


----------



## EternalGraphics808

simplicityinsound said:


> the older software for one, is at a lower output leve, doesnt have the MUTE button, and a few others that may not be different, but simply dont have the glitches of the newest software.
> 
> the firmware, i have 1.2 in the one thats currently sitting in the car i am working on now, but have no way to test it before i finish the rest of hte install.
> 
> but i was told there are some subtle differences between it and 1.1.
> 
> b


I have a 1.1
Is there enough difference to send the unit in to get 1.2?


----------



## strakele

I just got mine back after having 1.2 flashed. I have had no issues so far. Mute button works as it should, no output issues. Definitely liking it so far!

Updating to 1.2 is certainly worth it, because with this update, any further firmware updates will be able to be done by the user.


----------



## pdqwrx

Thanks Nick and Bing for all the info....


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> I just got mine back after having 1.2 flashed. I have had no issues so far. Mute button works as it should, no output issues. Definitely liking it so far!
> 
> Updating to 1.2 is certainly worth it, because with this update, any further firmware updates will be able to be done by the user.


Damn it, now I'm gonna have to send in mine!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## decibelle

The firmware update was a huge improvement overall. I haven't had any issues whatsoever. All appears to be functional and bug-free. Thank you Nick, Duane, Mark and everyone at Orca for getting the processors there and back (again) so quickly!


----------



## t3sn4f2

Tick tick tick on the digital input module. Reeeeally anxious to see the actual details on it.


----------



## DAT

Loving my DSP 6 to 8 also.... Now to get things tuned....


----------



## abdulwq

one of the nicest dsp out there


----------



## bertholomey

I feel like a huge sluggard, but I have a quick question that I hope someone has already looked into without me searching through this entire thread.......can the software be loaded / run on a Mac laptop? (I don't want to bother you again Neil with this goofy question)


----------



## Neil_J

bertholomey said:


> I feel like a huge sluggard, but I have a quick question that I hope someone has already looked into without me searching through this entire thread.......can the software be loaded / run on a Mac laptop? (I don't want to bother you again Neil with this goofy question)


Yes, you can dual boot into Windows and run the app from there. Mine arrived today, and I got a very basic tune setup with my macbook.


----------



## bertholomey

Thanks Neil....I ended up bothering you anyway I guess. Good luck with the tune.


----------



## ErinH

has anyone else had issues with the preset used not showing any settings when you bring the software up? It's odd.... I"m using preset 2. When I bring up the software, it defaults to preset 2, as it should. But, it shows all the settings as flat/zeroed/whatever you want to call it. However, the settings I have are still there because it sounds the same.... the software just isn't showing it. Not sure what to make of it. It's driving me nuts because I want to change some settings but can't do it because I'm unsure how the dsp will react to the updated changes.


----------



## bertholomey

I sent that to Nick.....

Turn on HU
Open up software
Bluetooth connects
Asks to go to dsp or up to console
Loads to console (except one preset)
Load preset 4 from computer (saved file)
Ready to tune


----------



## subwoofery

bikinpunk said:


> has anyone else had issues with the preset used not showing any settings when you bring the software up? It's odd.... I"m using preset 2. When I bring up the software, it defaults to preset 2, as it should. But, it shows all the settings as flat/zeroed/whatever you want to call it. However, the settings I have are still there because it sounds the same.... the software just isn't showing it. Not sure what to make of it. It's driving me nuts because I want to change some settings but can't do it because I'm unsure how the dsp will react to the updated changes.


Manufacturers should send their processors and HU for you to try coz you find glitches and issues everytime  

Kelvin


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Mosconi is aware of the software issue in regards to anyone tuning cannot save it and then go back later on and access it directly without jumping through hoops. 

As soon as we get an answer back from them on the issue, I will post it up here ASAP!

Nick


----------



## pionkej

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> Mosconi is aware of the software issue in regards to anyone tuning cannot save it and then go back later on and access it directly without jumping through hoops.
> 
> As soon as we get an answer back from them on the issue, I will post it up here ASAP!
> 
> Nick


Awesome Nick! Thank you for all the continued support. 

Did you ever ask them if it would be possible to add an all-pass filter to the crossover section?

Thanks again.


----------



## tonny

I also use the software on my mac book, I do it with parallels so I can use the windows 
for the dsp software and my measure meant programs under osx. 

And I also discovered some software problems mentioned above... they are already 
send the to guys off mosconi.


----------



## Neil_J

Dumb question, are the 6to8 inputs balanced? I'm getting a pretty crazy alternator whine right now, that is coming from my aftermarket head unit (I installed an old POS Kenwood unit this weekend, which is a placeholder until i get my Mac Mini car pc installed). I didn't have time to troubleshoot this weekend, but hopefully will get it sorted out tonight or tomorrow. I did verify it wasn't coming from the 6to8 or amps, no noise if using the iPad into the dsp. My first assumption was a noisy ground where the factory head unit used to be (but shouldn't be this bad if the 6to8 inputs were balanced, right?). I'm going to run a clean ground from the HU to chassis, and try the other 6to8 jumper combinations. Will also try another RCA cable, and another head unit if I can find one.


----------



## pionkej

Neil_J said:


> Dumb question, are the 6to8 inputs balanced? I'm getting a pretty crazy alternator whine right now, that is coming from my aftermarket head unit (I installed an old POS Kenwood unit this weekend, which is a placeholder until i get my Mac Mini car pc installed). I didn't have time to troubleshoot this weekend, but hopefully will get it sorted out tonight or tomorrow. I did verify it wasn't coming from the 6to8 or amps, no noise if using the iPad into the dsp. My first assumption was a noisy ground where the factory head unit used to be (but shouldn't be this bad if the 6to8 inputs were balanced, right?). I'm going to run a clean ground from the HU to chassis, and try the other 6to8 jumper combinations. Will also try another RCA cable, and another head unit if I can find one.


From what I understand, the 6to8 can accept balanced inputs (it has a switch on the input section to select between balanced or not), BUT, it doesn't matter if it accepts balanced if the source doesn't ouput balanced (which most H/U's don't). So, you can get the noise rejection benefits of a balanced input with the 6to8, but you have to have balanced outputs first.

Also, there should have been an insert in the box that shows a jumper on the boards that can be moved if you have ground loop issues. I didn't have an issue in my install and therefore didn't need it, but I'll see if I can find the sheet if yours didn't include it.


----------



## t3sn4f2

pionkej said:


> From what I understand, the 6to8 can accept balanced inputs (it has a switch on the input section to select between balanced or not), BUT, it doesn't matter if it accepts balanced if the source doesn't ouput balanced (which most H/U's don't). So, you can get the noise rejection benefits of a balanced input with the 6to8, but you have to have balanced outputs first.
> 
> Also, there should have been an insert in the box that shows a jumper on the boards that can be moved if you have ground loop issues. I didn't have an issue in my install and therefore didn't need it, but I'll see if I can find the sheet if yours didn't include it.


I think Neil's talking about diff. balanced type inputs that you see in amps like JL which are compatible with both unbal and bal and offer better noise immunity even if the source is single ended.


----------



## ErinH

Should be easy to tell. Pop the lid off and check the board. It comes apart extremely easy. 


Sent from my iPhone. Pardon the grammar.


----------



## Neil_J

t3sn4f2 said:


> I think Neil's talking about diff. balanced type inputs that you see in amps like JL which are compatible with both unbal and bal and offer better noise immunity even if the source is single ended.


Yep, that was what I was referring to. I need to open the unit and trace the input common traces as bikinpunk suggested. This week has been busy, so I haven't had time to troubleshoot it yet, or re-run the head unit ground. Hopefully I'll get to it Thursday or next Monday at this rate  

I did manage to get a few hours or so getting a rough tune in, with the engine off (no alternator whine there thankfully). The bluetooth connectivity is awesome, that's one less wire strewn about my car. Even getting a rough tune has proven challenging, without much to reference it to. I've kind of been waiting to step off the deep end with this manual tuning stuff.... And you know what, I like it


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

Orca has received a shipment of the digital input/output cards for the 6 to 8. There are coax and S/PDIF inputs and outputs. As soon as I have pics available I'll post them up on the forum.

Nick


----------



## EternalGraphics808

You mean these?


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Anyone getting turn on and off pops.. the turn on pop is as soon as I power hte radio on but not every time.. the turn off pop happens like 5 or 6 seconds after powering off the system... I am starting to wonder if its my amp as it only seems like one is doing it but I didn't remember this issue before the 6to8.


----------



## DAT

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Anyone getting turn on and off pops.. the turn on pop is as soon as I power hte radio on but not every time.. the turn off pop happens like 5 or 6 seconds after powering off the system... I am starting to wonder if its my amp as it only seems like one is doing it but I didn't remember this issue before the 6to8.




NO, must be your faulty HAT drivers, pops everytime.


No seriously, I don't get any with any of the DSP 6-8 I have installed..


----------



## t3sn4f2

EternalGraphics808 said:


> You mean these?


"**** Off To All Worldwide Cloners" :laugh:


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

DAT said:


> NO, must be your faulty HAT drivers, pops everytime.
> 
> 
> No seriously, I don't get any with any of the DSP 6-8 I have installed..


Damnit!.. I knew it was those dang HAT drivers  ...


----------



## quality_sound

Neil_J said:


> Dumb question, are the 6to8 inputs balanced? I'm getting a pretty crazy alternator whine right now, that is coming from my aftermarket head unit (I installed an old POS Kenwood unit this weekend, which is a placeholder until i get my Mac Mini car pc installed). I didn't have time to troubleshoot this weekend, but hopefully will get it sorted out tonight or tomorrow. I did verify it wasn't coming from the 6to8 or amps, no noise if using the iPad into the dsp. My first assumption was a noisy ground where the factory head unit used to be (but shouldn't be this bad if the 6to8 inputs were balanced, right?). I'm going to run a clean ground from the HU to chassis, and try the other 6to8 jumper combinations. Will also try another RCA cable, and another head unit if I can find one.


I had an OLD 7618 burn a ground trace (still no idea how as it was fine when I took it out, sat in a closet, and upon reinstall...noise) and it was god-awful. Simple check, pull the RCAs from the HU and see if it goes away. I'm betting dollars to doughnuts that it is the HU since the iPad is quiet.


----------



## EternalGraphics808

t3sn4f2 said:


> "**** Off To All Worldwide Cloners" :laugh:


Loved that when I saw it!


----------



## t3sn4f2

EternalGraphics808 said:


> Loved that when I saw it!


Have you been able to install it and try it out yet? Any details on the master volume feature were the incoming analog signal on the 6to8 controls the parallel digital input's master volume setting?


----------



## bengl3rt

Does anyone have the wired remote in hand yet? I'd love to see pics...


----------



## lbp775

Are there any Mosconi dealers here that I can talk to?


----------



## tnaudio

Modify head unit for digital out


----------



## cobb2819

lbp775 said:


> Are there any Mosconi dealers here that I can talk to?


Bing and I are dealers, and Nick Wingate from ORCA is on here also.


----------



## stuckinok

cobb2819 said:


> Bing and I are dealers, and Nick Wingate from ORCA is on here also.


F you


----------



## cobb2819

stuckinok said:


> F you


twice, you must miss me!!


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

kool22 said:


> Warning with this DSP. I could test it with a German dealer.
> 
> The Mosconi DSP is not accurate with the cut off frequency and the time delay.
> 
> I suggest you the Alpine Pxa-h800 or waiting for the rf 3sixty.3.
> 
> In Europe it's not a High End DSP. It costs 350 Euro.
> 
> Warning with Mosconi Brand.
> 
> For a example a friend got this amplifier
> 
> Mosconi - AS200.2
> 
> he is not stable a 2 ohm bridge.
> 
> Target Powers: 200 Watt per channel @ 4 Ohm
> 320 Watt per channel @ 2 Ohm
> 640 Watt BTL mode @ 4 Ohm
> 1000 Watt BTL mode @ 2 Ohm
> 
> It 's fake.
> 
> Mosconi speak a lot about his Iasca Trophy but A lot of brand got Iasca Trophy.
> 
> For me in sound quality, A Rockford Fosgate Power or a Jlaudio Hd is better as Mosconi.


Nice first post... Rtard...


----------



## The Tube Doctor

Does Nick (or anyone else on this board) know what's become of the input analyzing app for android? I saw it on the rah-rah's released by Mosconi earlier this year, but have not yet been successful in hunting down the actual software.
Currently fitting the 6to8 into a Porsche Carrera S with HAT and ARC goodies.


----------



## jsketoe

Wow...what a first post. I could counter all of that but I will pick a simple one so everyone can laugh at u. I'm running an AS200 mono on two focal 33kx subs...that's 1 ohm. And I guess since Iasca/Usac titles mean nothing and I have both a 'few' times over...my opinion won't matter. Lol. Trolling at best.


----------



## ALL4SQ

I've had my Mosconi 6 to 8 processor in my car for over a month now and have had zero issues. My first ISACA competition with the processor went really well. 

I'm using Firmware version 1.2 and the older software version 1.72

I really dig that I can type in the frequency I need into the EQ. Having a 15hz EQ band is fun! 

Thanks


----------



## pdqwrx

I just got my Digital input board and thought I would take some pics of the install. I milked it and it took all of 15 minutes. Now i have two Optical, one RF and one analogue input and an optical and RF out. can't wait to get it in the car next week. I'll actually get to use the digital out of my Eclipse 55090.... Woo Hoo!

Cheers
Scott


----------



## bengl3rt

Nice pics! Thanks for sharing! 

Anybody got the wired remote yet?


----------



## ncpalafox

love small amps


----------



## thehatedguy

That's not an amp


----------



## rugdnit

ncpalafox said:


> love small amps


Wow.... Just Wow.


----------



## subwoofery

thehatedguy said:


> That's not an amp


It's amazing to see that some people just don't read... 

Kelvin


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

ncpalafox said:


> love small amps


I love small amps too... not sure what that has to do with the Mosconi 6to8 DSP but thanks for sharing.....


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

I just picked up an HTC EVO LTE since I needed a new phone and wanted to play with the APP for the 6to8. You can't do a whole lot with it but I like how you can change between presets and the sub control is nice to have. I do miss just being able to use a little knob on my dash.. is it possible to feed a signal into the 6to8 for just sub duty and use the sub volume on the headunit to adjust the sub volume?


----------



## tonny

You can use a extra rca signal input on the dsp and use that for the sub channels, then 
you can control the volume with the sub control on you head unit.


----------



## t3sn4f2

t3sn4f2 said:


> Have you been able to install it and try it out yet? Any details on the master volume feature were the incoming analog signal on the 6to8 controls the parallel digital input's master volume setting?


"Anyone? Anyone?"


----------



## mndevil

Can anyone tell me where i can get the MOsconi SP-DIF board online, need to ship it Internationally?

Any info greatly appreciated


----------



## Neil_J

I think I bricked my 6to8 last night. My car likes to shut itself off if the ignition is in the accessory position for too long, I think it may have lost power in the middle of a data transfer. Now the software won't transfer in either direction to the 6to8, it gets about 20-30% through the first preset, and bombs. I tried all combinations of USB and different laptops, and nothing helps. I'm using the 1.77 software. Has anyone else had this happen?


----------



## strakele

Neil_J said:


> I think I bricked my 6to8 last night. My car likes to shut itself off if the ignition is in the accessory position for too long, I think it may have lost power in the middle of a data transfer. Now the software won't transfer in either direction to the 6to8, it gets about 20-30% through the first preset, and bombs. I tried all combinations of USB and different laptops, and nothing helps. I'm using the 1.77 software. Has anyone else had this happen?


Shiiiii... haven't had that happen but if it happens with multiple laptops, cables, and copying both directions, then .. that sucks. Have you tried bluetooth? I don't remember... do you have the latest firmware? If not, this is a good excuse to send it in to get the newest one flashed. If so, then your firmware is user updateable... talk to one of the guys at Orca and see if you can get them to send you a copy of it to reflash or a way to wipe the presumably corrupted memory since it doesn't have a hard reset button. Doubt it'd help, but did you disconnect the power plug to it?


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> Shiiiii... haven't had that happen but if it happens with multiple laptops, cables, and copying both directions, then .. that sucks. Have you tried bluetooth? I don't remember... do you have the latest firmware? If not, this is a good excuse to send it in to get the newest one flashed. If so, then your firmware is user updateable... talk to one of the guys at Orca and see if you can get them to send you a copy of it to reflash or a way to wipe the presumably corrupted memory since it doesn't have a hard reset button. Doubt it'd help, but did you disconnect the power plug to it?


I've tried both USB and bluetooth, both on my MacBook and the netbook (both of which were running Windows 7 at the time). I believe I've got the latest firmware, although it's hard to check at the moment. Hopefully I'll have a minute or two to troubleshoot this weekend before calling for support.


----------



## tonny

I've had that once, but not with the latest software! When I downloaded the latest 
software there was no problem any more and I could transfer the data to the dsp without
a problem. 

And for the rest of us interested in the volume trigger function when you use the optical 
input, on Monday I will instal the optical card in My dsp then I should know how it will 
work.


----------



## Neil_J

tonny said:


> I've had that once, but not with the latest software! When I downloaded the latest
> software there was no problem any more and I could transfer the data to the dsp without
> a problem.
> 
> And for the rest of us interested in the volume trigger function when you use the optical
> input, on Monday I will instal the optical card in My dsp then I should know how it will
> work.


Is it possible for me to re-flash the current version of firmware? Or does it have to go back to the dealer?


----------



## tonny

Hmmm I don't know if you can do something with the firmware... I've meant the 
setup software.


----------



## uniqueautosoundinc

i have one for sale only used one day

$450

pm with any questions

full warranty


----------



## james2266

uniqueautosoundinc said:


> i have one for sale only used one day
> 
> $450
> 
> pm with any questions
> 
> full warranty


I'll take that. I'm at work right now. I will PM you when I get home to talk details.


----------



## james2266

uniqueautosoundinc said:


> i have one for sale only used one day
> 
> $450
> 
> pm with any questions
> 
> full warranty


PM has been sent for info


----------



## Thumper26

yeah, depending on what part of it was being updated, you may have bricked it. dsp's are similar to cell phones: if you lose power during the middle of a system upgrade, you're toast. it's due to how those chipsets behave, and they've always been like that. I don't know if this is still the case, but it used to be when that happened, not even the manufacturers and engineers that designed the things could bring them back. similar to a bios update on your computer.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

uniqueautosoundinc said:


> i have one for sale only used one day
> 
> $450
> 
> pm with any questions
> 
> full warranty


Wow.. hell of a deal.. That with or without the bluetooth adapter?


----------



## james2266

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Wow.. hell of a deal.. That with or without the bluetooth adapter?


Who cares at that price and its mine if he returns his PM and there is nothing seriously wrong with the unit.


----------



## james2266

Ok, I got my 6to8 here and really want to install it. I am having all sorts of problems getting the software for it to work on my laptop however. The laptop is an older Toshiba 1.6 kHz single core running Windows XP with service pack 2. Is this sufficient to run this software? It keeps bombing out on me. I have been trying to upgrade to Servcie Pack 3 but it keeps bricking the damned thing. I HATE WINDOWS! I wish this thing was configurable on a Macbook without having to pollute it with Windows.

I am trying this a final time. Had to restore it for the 2nd time in two days because of that damned Service Pack 3. I tried two different locations on the internet for the download thinking that the first might have been a corrupted file or something. It's really strange however as it installed no problems at all on my desktop (Vista). Anyone else have issues with installing on an XP laptop?


----------



## tonny

I'am working with a Mac book pro with lion, on there I have parallels with a 
windows XP installation that's also sp2 and the software for the dsp works great!
But you do need a the sp2 on your windows xp installation other wise you can't instal 
the software. 
And I do think you can also need windows installer 3.1 if I'am right other wise
it did not work on my laptop.


----------



## quality_sound

I installed it on my Win7 Toshiba and ran it fine.


----------



## james2266

tonny said:


> I'am working with a Mac book pro with lion, on there I have parallels with a
> windows XP installation that's also sp2 and the software for the dsp works great!
> But you do need a the sp2 on your windows xp installation other wise you can't instal
> the software.
> And I do think you can also need windows installer 3.1 if I'am right other wise
> it did not work on my laptop.


Yes, I had to install windows installer 3.1 as you said. I also had to install .net Framwork 3.5 + and another file I can't recall off hand right now. Anyways, I got the software onto the laptop finally without a hitch. BUT.... now, I have taken out the Bit One and put in the 6to8 all nice and sweet. I had to do some interesting solder work to get my two amps and DSP's remote wires into one at the DSP but I got her up and everything powered up fine. I only hooked up the sub for fear of blowing something because it could turn on and have no settings installed. Boy was I happy I took that precaution because that is exactly what it did. 

Now to the problem, I can't get the damned software to connect with the 6to8 in anyway. Everytime I open it up, it says status is not connected. I unplug the cable and replug it in and the laptop tells me that it is finding a new device so the DSP is being recognized by the computer - just not the software for it! This is enfuriating even tho I like the fact I appear to be getting zilch for noise which I love. Now if I could only get some initial settings in there so I can get everything else hooked up and hear what this thing can really do. Anyone got any tips here? I might give my installer a call and see if he has any ideas.


----------



## tonny

Did you also instal the usb driver which comes with the software???

You could also check out another usb cable, I also had that problem once.


----------



## james2266

tonny said:


> Did you also instal the usb driver which comes with the software???
> 
> You could also check out another usb cable, I also had that problem once.


The usb driver installs along with the main software package? The laptop beeps everytime the usb cable is attached or disconnected too. Anyways, I called Dave who I bought this from (who is a dealer) and he told me the same thing as you - to find a different usb cable. I have now tried three difference ones and they all had the same end solution. The software keeps saying 'Status: not connected'. It doesn't even seem like the software even looks for the device too; which I always found weird when I was demoing the software. My Bit One always looks for the device unless you set it to not connected status...

Is my software functioning correctly in this fashion? Any other ideas as to why this is happening and a possible solution?


----------



## james2266

The Bluetooth adapter is functioning too. I have tried it with and without it being connected. Is there something that has to be done to switch between bluetooth and usb on this device? I think Dave had it setup for Bluetooth before. Will it send/receive info on both at the same time or is it one or the other? Also, is there any software needed for the Bluetooth adapter?


----------



## cobb2819

How long have you been waiting for the connection, and you are following the startup procedure correctly I assume. Either or on the BT/USB. If BT is connected, do not use USB.


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> How long have you been waiting for the connection, and you are following the startup procedure correctly I assume. Either or on the BT/USB. If BT is connected, do not use USB.


It doesn't connect immediately and there's a startup procedure? Please explain. Is there a switch that turns the BT on and the USB off possibly?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> It doesn't connect immediately and there's a startup procedure? Please explain. Is there a switch that turns the BT on and the USB off possibly?


It doesn't connect immediately, it takes a bit. The start-up is Boot Software, turn on 6to8, connect 6to8 w/ USB, then wait for prompt. 

If using the BT, then plug in the BT adapter, boot the software, turn on the 6to8, and wait for the prompt. It might take a minute or 2. There is no BT switch.


----------



## james2266

Thanks. I will try that exact procedure in a bit here. I just got off the horn with Duane from Orca and he gave me a couple ideas too. Furst was to kill all power to the DSP unit for about a half hour and then try again. If that fails, try a different computer. Hell, if I have to I'll haul out my desktop to make it work. Really hope it doesn't come down to that tho.


----------



## tonny

I would test it without the BT adapter in it, Iv not worked with that yet but I could 
think it get's wrong there. 

On your other pc is it also not working???


----------



## james2266

tonny said:


> I would test it without the BT adapter in it, Iv not worked with that yet but I could
> think it get's wrong there.
> 
> On your other pc is it also not working???


I took the BT adapter out for now. I haven't tried the second computer yet. That is kind of my last resort here.


----------



## cobb2819

tonny said:


> I would test it without the BT adapter in it, Iv not worked with that yet but I could
> think it get's wrong there.
> 
> On your other pc is it also not working???


The BT Adapter and the USB conflict, and it'll never detect the 6to8 if both are trying to be used, to the best of my knowledge, and from personal experience.


----------



## tonny

james2266 said:


> I took the BT adapter out for now. I haven't tried the second computer yet. That is kind of my last resort here.



And did it work???


----------



## james2266

Nope, spent all the time to install on the wife's laptop (much newer and Vista) and have the same results as the other one. I just got off the phone with Duane at Orca again and he figures there is nothing more he can do without seeing it in person. Ugh! I will probably have to ship it back to them for repair now. Sucks because I am in Canada too and cross border shipping is long and expensive. I will try running out and getting a blue tooth dongle for my laptop and see if i can get it to connect that way. Probably way cheaper than sending it away. Wish me luck. I was really looking forward to this unit.


----------



## james2266

Ok, got the new Bluetooth adapter for my laptop and now I need to know what the code is for pairing the Mosconi Bluetooth adapter. I can see the Mosconi BT adapter in setup for the pairing but it is asking for the pairing code. Anyone wanna share what it is or where I can get this info?


----------



## james2266

james2266 said:


> Ok, got the new Bluetooth adapter for my laptop and now I need to know what the code is for pairing the Mosconi Bluetooth adapter. I can see the Mosconi BT adapter in setup for the pairing but it is asking for the pairing code. Anyone wanna share what it is or where I can get this info?



Hopefully someone will answer soon here. I would really like to get this done tonight. One more question too. I was wondering if the Audison DRC controller would work the same as the MOsconi controller that I can't get? I didn't think they would but I noticed the plug in is identical and they look identical. I know its a stretch but would be nice if I could just plug it in...


----------



## DAT

james2266 said:


> Hopefully someone will answer soon here. I would really like to get this done tonight. One more question too. I was wondering if the Audison DRC controller would work the same as the MOsconi controller that I can't get? I didn't think they would but I noticed the plug in is identical and they look identical. I know its a stretch but would be nice if I could just plug it in...


Try 123 or was it 1234


----------



## james2266

DAT said:


> Try 123 or was it 1234



1 2 3 4 for anyone that has the same issues as me. For about the 100th time a MASSIVE thanks to DAT. All I can say with about 5 sec. of listening with only moderate guesses at crossover points and levels taken from my Bit One, this thing is going to be awesome! First thing I noticed? Well, by golly there is a sub in the back there!


----------



## DAT

Anyone got a link to Firmware 1.2?


----------



## cobb2819

Firmware 1.2 is what orca has to install.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DAT

cobb2819 said:


> Firmware 1.2 is what orca has to install.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Yes, I figured just got off the phone with Duane, getting a RA# , unit says 1.2 but it's showing 1.9.


----------



## tonny

Hmmm one of mine 6to8's is also showing 1.9 but it's just the 1.2 version which is on it... 

My other 6to8 is showing version 1.2 and works absolutely the same! 
So I would not worry about that.


----------



## DAT

tonny said:


> Hmmm one of mine 6to8's is also showing 1.9 but it's just the 1.2 version which is on it...
> 
> My other 6to8 is showing version 1.2 and works absolutely the same!
> So I would not worry about that.


Hmm well you better use BT or USB and play with it for awhile.

Issues I'm having is it drops connectivity while adjusting settings. then you lose everything you just did and have to close it out and start over, not everyone should have to save settings ever 2 minutes just to be safe. I do agree on saving say every 10 minutes...


----------



## tonny

Hmm with the old software i did have that a cupple off times... but with the latest 
software I've never had it again! 

O and I always forget to save my setting while setting up... so for me it would be 
a big problem.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Little help! Not sure why my humps on 3 and 4 are not even.. all the others match and I checked my settings on everything twice but that one red hump is all funky.. WTF?


----------



## cobb2819

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Little help! Not sure why my humps on 3 and 4 are not even.. all the others match and I checked my settings on everything twice but that one red hump is all funky.. WTF?


Double check your input eq settings and mixer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

cobb2819 said:


> Double check your input eq settings and mixer.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yup, right after I posted this I ran back out and realized I only reset the EQ on channels 1 and 2.. I thought it would do all channels but I caught a few bands moved on the 3 and 4 tab.. I must have bumped them on accident.. the freq chart comes in handy.. I got frustrated  My first 3 way setup so my cherry got popped and I'm all emotional and chit. I need to be held...:surprised:


----------



## Ratking

Hello

Anyone been using the digital input with a Ipad as source yet?
How does that work out for you?

Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Hello
> 
> Anyone been using the digital input with a Ipad as source yet?
> How does that work out for you?
> 
> Thanks


I'll let you know hopefully next week




















Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## james2266

I see a connection for 'mic' listed on the new 'optical panel'. Are they planning on adding auto-calibration or something like that to this thing?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> I see a connection for 'mic' listed on the new 'optical panel'. Are they planning on adding auto-calibration or something like that to this thing?


I hope not, I'm honestly hoping it's going to be BT Handsfree. This version of the Digital Card (the optical card will be released at some point) allows for BT as an audio source, so I'm hoping they add a mic and call it done.


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> I hope not, I honestly hoping it's going to be BT Handsfree. This version of the Digital Card (the optical card will be released at some point) allows for BT as an audio source, so I'm hoping they add a mic and call it done.


ah, yes, that would make more sense. I don't really care about it either way really as I am absolutely loving mine and don't really want to be streaming music via bluetooth really with my setup.


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Hello
> 
> Anyone been using the digital input with a Ipad as source yet?
> How does that work out for you?
> 
> Thanks


I like accessories!!




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> I like accessories!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Nice, I like that 

Thats the route I'm going too.
If you don't mind, how much did you pay for the digital input card?
Will you use a asynchronous usb to spdif converter?


----------



## DAT

Nice, i like Accessories also!


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Nice, I like that
> 
> Thats the route I'm going too.
> If you don't mind, how much did you pay for the digital input card?
> Will you use a asynchronous usb to spdif converter?


I'm a Mosconi Dealer...so...yeah.

And I'll be using a Pure I20 adapted over, and it should be here any minute...will post pics.


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Nice, I like that
> 
> Thats the route I'm going too.
> If you don't mind, how much did you pay for the digital input card?
> Will you use a asynchronous usb to spdif converter?


Let the fun begin!!

Ok, done thread jacking...maybe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

^cobb, the photos are not showing up for me. Anyone else see them?


----------



## cobb2819

Ahh...Takatalk hates me. I'll fix it when I get home.


----------



## cobb2819

Pics attached, now back to the 6to8 conversations.


----------



## Rysandro

Is THD+N @ 1KHz the same as THD @ 1KHz?

Are these numbers misleading in anyway?

3Sixty.3: THD+N = [email protected] 1KHz
Mosconi 6to8: THD = [email protected] 1KHz

Are measurements taken differently or is the Mosconi really 3.3 times cleaner?


----------



## ErinH

Those are different parameters. 

http://ap.com/solutions/introtoaudiotest/thd+n


----------



## t3sn4f2

More here

http://http://www.rane.com/note145.html


----------



## jrhunkler

How does this work with factory radios? I have an Alpine 9835 that I don't need for its time alignment capabilities, etc, so I'm probably going to sell it, and just stick with a the factory radio if it'll work nice and clean with it, or go with an aftermaret HU decent high 4-5v preout...


----------



## DeanE10

If I am on firmware 1.1 is there a reason to go to 1.2? The main reason I ask is I notice a hiss with it as well as some noise... I remove it, plug the RCA's into the amp directly it and it goes away


----------



## DeanE10

jrhunkler said:


> How does this work with factory radios? I have an Alpine 9835 that I don't need for its time alignment capabilities, etc, so I'm probably going to sell it, and just stick with a the factory radio if it'll work nice and clean with it, or go with an aftermaret HU decent high 4-5v preout...


It offers both high and low level inputs so you can use this with the factory system. They also have a few factory cables for easy intergration


----------



## DAT

DeanE10 said:


> If I am on firmware 1.1 is there a reason to go to 1.2? The main reason I ask is I notice a hiss with it as well as some noise... I remove it, plug the RCA's into the amp directly it and it goes away


Yes, you are going to want to get it flashed, for many reasons.

#1 It fixes connectivity with the laptop via BT or USB
#2 You will never be able to upgrade yourself down the road until you have it flashed to 1.2



Also never heard anyone that had to do this but inside the 6to8 you have a jumper I believe you can use if your having noise.

I would try to turn the 6to8 gain down first to see if that fixes it.


----------



## DeanE10

DAT said:


> Yes, you are going to want to get it flashed, for many reasons.
> 
> #1 It fixes connectivity with the laptop via BT or USB
> #2 You will never be able to upgrade yourself down the road until you have it flashed to 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> Also never heard anyone that had to do this but inside the 6to8 you have a jumper I believe you can use if your having noise.
> 
> I would try to turn the 6to8 gain down first to see if that fixes it.


Thanks Dave.. Jumper and gains = not really helping


----------



## strakele

I'm on 1.2 and have hiss as well. Ally has the same and hers is silent. Gonna try some things to see if we can narrow it down.


----------



## ErinH

Grayson, have you switched yours with hers to see if the problem moves with the specific DSP?


----------



## strakele

Not yet. Going to this week.


----------



## ErinH

LMK (us) know. I had the same issue with mine and I sent it back for the update because I was told the new software addresses this (not sure how SW can alter this but who knows). 

Of course, it could be anything else in te chain, too.


----------



## simplicityinsound

i am not sure if this is the issue, but starting on one of the software releaes, the gain was bumped up quite a bit, i think by 6 db iirc?

this means if you have a stock signal source or one thats not the quietest, whatever is in the line before the 6to8 will be amplfiied or present after it.

i noticed this most on an infiniti and the hyundai.

the simple solution is to lower the output gains via the software until the noise is gone or acceptable. and then you are set and if you need more volumes, you can bump gains on the amp a lil.

if you have a signal source that is exceedingly clean, the hiss wont come through at all.

having just done by 8th DSP6to8, i have yet to encounter a car that the noise cannot be eliminated or decreased to the point that you cant even notice it.

b


----------



## ErinH

Mine is a noise floor issue. It's gone now that the mosconi is out but I can't say 100% it's the root cause. That said, I also just upped the power a good bit where if te problem were something else it would have been more apparent via amplification delta so...

Like I said, we'll see. 

FWIW: my mosconi DSP gain was at minimum (-12, IIRC)


----------



## simplicityinsound

hmm weird...like i said 8 units and i have never encountered it .

the latest one, the vw Gti with illusion, stock headunit coded for line level.

the gains on the unit are at 0, all the way up, its whisper quiet...verified by anyone who heard it and also zero point deduction on noise.

b

btw, where is your input gain set?

b


----------



## strakele

Mine is the processor. Hiss is still there with no input to the processor and is gone when the processor is muted.

Going to try the jumper thing discussed earlier and comparing it to one that is silent in another car.

My input sensitivity is at minimum.


----------



## Mic10is

bikinpunk said:


> Mine is a noise floor issue. It's gone now that the mosconi is out but I can't say 100% it's the root cause. That said, I also just upped the power a good bit where if te problem were something else it would have been more apparent via amplification delta so...
> 
> Like I said, we'll see.
> 
> FWIW: my mosconi DSP gain was at minimum (-12, IIRC)


care to elaborate?


----------



## ErinH

there's no more noise floor since I removed the mosconi (to send it in for upgrade) and connected the deck straight to the amps.


----------



## james2266

bikinpunk said:


> there's no more noise floor since I removed the mosconi (to send it in for upgrade) and connected the deck straight to the amps.


I have a very tiny bit of noise in mine but I haven't had a chance to set the gains on either the amps or processor yet. I had to lower the levels on everything in the dsp software which eliminated the noise virtually 100%. I will hopefully get the opportunity to get things apart so I can reset gains on everything. My dsp is set at the lowest manual setting currently. All I can say is I am super impressed by this thing. The gain coming out of this thing seems stronger than my Bit One was and that is with the gains all the way down on the unit! If this is indeed max 4v output then I would have to say the output resistance must be supremely higher than the Bit One was. I am fully positive I will have absolutely zero noise once I am able to set the processor for max voltage and turn the gains on my amps way down. We'll see however. I will report back when I get that handled.


----------



## strakele

Ok guys, I see this jumper, but that little insert in the box doesn't say where to switch it to, it just says it can be changed. 

Where do you put it?


----------



## Neil_J

Delete


----------



## cobb2819

There are 2 sets of pins, take it off the OEM set and put it on the pair next door.


----------



## strakele

That's what I was going to try first. But are there not 3 options? Mosconi America lists:

Ground Isolation vs Car Body: 1Kohm (default) / Isolated (optional) / Grounded (optional)

So if the default location for the pins is 1Kohm, then perhaps swapping to the other 2 pins is isolated, and then turning the jumper 90 degrees is grounded?


----------



## DeanE10

strakele said:


> That's what I was going to try first. But are there not 3 options? Mosconi America lists:
> 
> Ground Isolation vs Car Body: 1Kohm (default) / Isolated (optional) / Grounded (optional)
> 
> So if the default location for the pins is 1Kohm, then perhaps swapping to the other 2 pins is isolated, and then turning the jumper 90 degrees is grounded?


I tried isolated and it did nothing...


----------



## ErinH

Didn't even k ow there were options in this regard. Humph. 

Someone mind shedding some light on it? As I said before, mines gone ATM otherwise I'd check it myself.


----------



## strakele

I would have tried it before class today but it's pouring rain.

I already have the jumper switched, just gotta try it in car.


----------



## DeanE10

bikinpunk said:


> Didn't even k ow there were options in this regard. Humph.
> 
> Someone mind shedding some light on it? As I said before, mines gone ATM otherwise I'd check it myself.


here is the card the 6to8 comes with:


----------



## DeanE10

I am going to pull mine again so I will take some better pictures of it when I do unless Greyson gets to it before me...


----------



## strakele

So how do you get the third option? 1kohm, isolated, grounded?


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> So how do you get the third option? 1kohm, isolated, grounded?


Probably (jumpered left), (open), (jumpered right)?? 
/educated guess


----------



## DeanE10

or off all together?


----------



## Neil_J

DeanE10 said:


> or off all together?


Yea, that's what I meant :-/


----------



## ErinH

Guys, the manual says the jumper is to address ground loops. My problem isn't that. It's noise floor. Just want to clarify.


----------



## strakele

Can't a ground loop issue cause hiss/noise floor?

For everyone else:

Here's the inside of the 6to8 (with no digital input board.)










The 4 pins in question are right at the center of this picture, with the jumper switched from where the where on the 2 pins on the right to the 2 pins on the left.


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> Can't a ground loop issue cause hiss/noise floor?


The application engineer at Jensen Transformers told me "yes" in some circumstances, and that the CI-2RR (which was a product dreamed up by the Autosound 2000 guys) would likely improve the hiss/noise floor of my 6to8, as well as eliminate my ground loop problem. Or maybe he's just trying to sell me something  I could pull up some white papers, it's a complex subject. It could also very likely be lack of filtering on the power supply, or something else completely.


----------



## strakele

Well I'm about to go out and see if this did anything for me. If not, I'll try Ally's in my car and see if the problem is the unit itself or something in my install.


----------



## marvnmars

strakele said:


> Well I'm about to go out and see if this did anything for me. If not, I'll try Ally's in my car and see if the problem is the unit itself or something in my install.


will you give ally hers back if it cures your problem?? seriously are you going to try yours in her car for a true a/b comparison? it could be the electrical gremlins of your car.


----------



## strakele

Seems the jumper didn't do anything so we will try swapping processors and see if hers is silent in my car or if mine hisses in hers.


----------



## Mic10is

As Erin mentioned, this jumper is no different than what Audio Control did for years, it goes from a floating ground to ground to eliminate Ground Loop (alternator whine noise)
This should/would have little to no effect on floor noise (hiss)


----------



## edouble101

:heart:


----------



## DeanE10

did nothing for my alternator whine either... so... there is that


----------



## strakele

Meh. We'll see what happens when swapping them.

Honestly I'd rather it be a problem with the thing itself and just have it replaced then have it be something in my car causing it.


----------



## decibelle

marvnmars said:


> will you give ally hers back if it cures your problem?? seriously are you going to try yours in her car for a true a/b comparison? it could be the electrical gremlins of your car.


Actually I just thought I'd let him keep mine and take his reject unit. Cause he'd do the same for me. 

no he wouldn't 



strakele said:


> Meh. We'll see what happens when swapping them.
> 
> Honestly I'd rather it be a problem with the thing itself and just have it replaced then have it be something in my car causing it.


No you don't. Then you're without a processor during the month we have our meet and two state finals.


----------



## simplicityinsound

Maybe i should make a video of a few of the 
6to8 installs and jam the mic right up to the tweet to show a lack of hiss 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## pdqwrx

Why don't we start with some simple gain structuring and trouble shooting. I suggest EVERYONE watch Dave's video on how to use a shorting plug. 2 pair of these should be in every installers tool box. From there read Richards article on setting the gains. It is far easier to set them right from the start then to swap processors and bench race.

Gain setting
David Navone's .:: HERES HOW ::. Series - Car Audio Engineering

Daves Mute the amp video is in the bottom right corner
David Navone - Car Audio Engineering

I would normally say good luck but between these two tools you should be able to quickly find the problem. No luck required.....

Cheers


----------



## pdqwrx

You can also find a copy of the AS2000 noise flow chart here.....
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...hF-WCDP7I_lSygetA&sig2=OudjRDVFS8YqTT_NzV1_Jg

This finds ALL noise...period! It will also point out who is lazy....LOL


----------



## DAT

simplicityinsound said:


> Maybe i should make a video of a few of the
> 6to8 installs and jam the mic right up to the tweet to show a lack of hiss
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2


That is funny. 

I also have Zero Hiss, using a 6to8. Hope you find out what is causing the problem.





pdqwrx said:


> Why don't we start with some simple gain structuring and trouble shooting. I suggest EVERYONE watch Dave's video on how to use a shorting plug. 2 pair of these should be in every installers tool box. From there read Richards article on setting the gains. It is far easier to set them right from the start then to swap processors and bench race.
> 
> Gain setting
> David Navone's .:: HERES HOW ::. Series - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> Daves Mute the amp video is in the bottom right corner
> David Navone - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> I would normally say good luck but between these two tools you should be able to quickly find the problem. No luck required.....
> 
> Cheers


So True :thumbsup:



pdqwrx said:


> You can also find a copy of the AS2000 noise flow chart here.....
> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...hF-WCDP7I_lSygetA&sig2=OudjRDVFS8YqTT_NzV1_Jg
> 
> This finds ALL noise...period! It will also point out who is lazy....LOL


:thumbsup:


----------



## t3sn4f2

pdqwrx said:


> Why don't we start with some simple gain structuring and trouble shooting. I suggest EVERYONE watch Dave's video on how to use a shorting plug. 2 pair of these should be in every installers tool box. From there read Richards article on setting the gains. It is far easier to set them right from the start then to swap processors and bench race.
> 
> Gain setting
> David Navone's .:: HERES HOW ::. Series - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> Daves Mute the amp video is in the bottom right corner
> David Navone - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> I would normally say good luck but between these two tools you should be able to quickly find the problem. No luck required.....
> 
> Cheers


Good articles but they are getting a little long in the tooth by now. For instance the whole setting gains not to 3/4 volume but to best distortion & noise performance plus gain overlapping the amp to a fixed dB level doesn't not apply anymore since modern head units don't clip. Well at least those that will have good enough noise performance that precise gain structuring will benefit you.

Now what we have is clean gain at the source. And that volume range comes with a HUGE range sometimes (ie pioneer p99). Which if you gain to 10dB overlap, you could end up having to turn the volume knob forever to go from low to loud to low......etc. This isn't the analog POT days of 7-5 o'clock where this would not apply.

Also almost all head units comes with a customizable volume dependent loudness contour. Which you'd have to be crazy and turn off since if provide added output to the bass and treble as you reduce the volume. To make up for our reduced sensitivity at those levels and the dominance of background noise that comes with it as well. So if you set gains to a fixed dB you are forced to live with the loudness curve where you're typical volume range resides at.

I think its much better to play with the source gain so that the curve is pleasing at all volumes plus set them where your volume range is comfortable to you. 

Components at these levels of complexity should have enough clean gain themselves so you don't need to optimize everything like if you are working with **** and listening to classic in a room that has 10dB of background noise.


----------



## DAT

strakele said:


> Can't a ground loop issue cause hiss/noise floor?





DeanE10 said:


> did nothing for my alternator whine either... so... there is that



*The Ten Commandments*

*I. The best cure is prevention. I cant overemphasize this point. If youve ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.

II. Dont introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, Ive found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.

III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.

IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.

V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicles OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to its length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.

VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.

VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifiers circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.

VIII. Dont connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.

IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is obtained.

X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter. And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not required.

About now most of you are probably making strange faces and saying "Now you tell me!" Well, all is not lost. If you have already installed your auto sound system and are unfortunate enough to have some noise, here are a few suggestions on where to look and what to do.

Alternator Whine

To me, alternator whine is the most annoying form of noise. For those of you who are lucky enough never to have been exposed to alternator whine, it sounds like a miniature siren that rises in pitch with the speed of the engine. Alternator whine is almost always caused by a ground loop. The following steps will aid you in locating and correcting a ground loop problem.

Verify that all levels are set properly. (Click here for related article.)
With the system turned off, unplug the RCA inputs to the amplifier.
Start the vehicle and turn the system on. If the noise is gone go to step 8. If the noise is still present, it is coming from the amp or the speaker wiring. 


Turn the system off and disconnect the speaker harness.
Start the engine and verify that no noise is present. In a few rare instances, I have actually heard speakers reproduce noise without being connected to an amplifier. This noise was being induced by power cables that were very close to the speaker wire. If you do have this type of noise, reroute the appropriate speaker lead and go to step 3.

With the speaker harness still disconnected, check to make sure there are no shorts between the speaker leads and the chassis of the vehicle. A shorted negative speaker lead will create a ground loop by establishing a second audio ground reference point. If you do have a short, trace the wire out and repair it then go to step 3.
With the RCA inputs and speaker harness still disconnected from the amplifier, use your VOM to measure from the shield of the RCA jacks on the amp to the chassis of the vehicle. This reading should not be a direct short (100 ohms or more is acceptable.) If this reading does indicate a direct short, you might have a defective amp and should contact the manufacturer for verification.(Note that there are a few "inexpensive" amps or boosters on the market that have their audio ground and electrical ground commoned internally. For units of this type, the information in this article will be of very little value.)

If youve made it here, you know that the amplifier and speaker wiring are okay.

Connect the accessories in front of the amp (crossovers, equalizers, etc.) one at a time and check for alternator whine. When each device is tested, there should be nothing plugged into the input of that device. In this way, we will work toward the source unit piece by piece. Be sure to turn the system power off before connecting or disconnecting any cables or accessories.

Repeat step 9 until all accessories have been tested.
If a particular accessory is causing noise, try disconnecting its power ground wire. Go to step 9.

Now its time to connect the source unit. Do that now and test for noise.
If noise is present, try unplugging the antenna. If the noise goes away, you will need to use an antenna isolator. This little gismo opens the shield wire of the coax to eliminate the ground loop caused by the ground at the antenna.

If you still have noise, try connecting the source units ground wire in another location, preferably as close to the source unit as possible.

Does the noise vary in amplitude when you adjust the volume control? If it does, the problem is probably power line related and not a ground loop. If this is the case, run the source units B+ (yellow) wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. If this doesnt do the trick, you will probably have to use a power line filter on the source units B+ (Yel) and Ignition (Red) wires.
Ignition Noise

Ignition noise is another type of noise that is quite annoying. It usually sounds like a popping or buzzing sound whenever the engine is running. The best cure is to remove the motor but since we cant do that, we will have to rely on some other form of remedy. Follow the steps below to eliminate or reduce ignition noise.

Make sure you are using resistor type spark plugs and resistor type plug wires.
Determine where the noise is coming from. If the noise is a popping sound that occurs 2 or 3 times a second, you probably have a loose or bad plug wire. First, make sure that all plug wires are seated properly. If this doesnt do the trick, you may have a bad plug wire. Usually this occurs due to a pinhole in the insulation of the wire. Whenever the plug wire is energized, an arc jumps through the pinhole to the chassis of the vehicle. Replace with silicone resistor plug wires.

If the noise is a buzzing sound, the problem is usually associated with the points, distributor, or coil. Try replacing the condenser on both the coil and points. Make sure all plug wires are seated properly in the distributor cap. Additionally, you might try adding a 2200uF cap from the positive terminal on the coil to chassis ground.

Dont use the fuse block in the vehicle to derive power for the source unit. Run the Constant Hot B+ (memory) wire directly to the batterys positive terminal.
If you still have noise, it could be occurring because of induction. Try pulling the source unit out of the dash and check for noise. If the noise is eliminated, try rerouting any wiring harnesses that are close to the deck. If this is not possible, try using self adhesive metal shielding. This might just do the trick.
Turn On/Off Thump

Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.

Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.)
Dont install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.
If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.
This concludes the section on turn on thump.
System Hiss

Hiss is usually most noticeable over the midrange and tweeters. The reasons for this are simple. The human ear is more sensitive to the frequencies reproduced by these drivers. Mids and tweets are usually far more efficient than their low frequency counterparts. And, these drivers are usually mounted closer to the listener. If you have hiss, you probably have your levels set improperly. See rule 9 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.

While I know that I havent covered all the forms of noise or even all of the methods of dealing with it, I hope that Ive made a good start. By adhering to the Ten Commandments and investing a little persistence, you will be rewarded with a noise free installation.

*


----------



## strakele

pdqwrx said:


> Why don't we start with some simple gain structuring and trouble shooting. I suggest EVERYONE watch Dave's video on how to use a shorting plug. 2 pair of these should be in every installers tool box. From there read Richards article on setting the gains. It is far easier to set them right from the start then to swap processors and bench race.
> 
> Gain setting
> David Navone's .:: HERES HOW ::. Series - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> Daves Mute the amp video is in the bottom right corner
> David Navone - Car Audio Engineering
> 
> I would normally say good luck but between these two tools you should be able to quickly find the problem. No luck required.....
> 
> Cheers


Full system connected: hiss
RCA from HU to processor removed: hiss
RCA from processor to amps removed: no hiss
Full system connected, processor output muted: no hiss

Please tell me what you would think was the culprit given this information.


----------



## pdqwrx

Strakele- Lets work from the amps forward.

Unplug the RCA cables from the amp and plug in muting plugs Is there his Yes/No

If yes, buy new amps

If no, then plug in RCA cables and install muting plugs inplace of next component. Noise yes/no

If yes, replace RCA or re run

If no, then plug into next component and plug muting plugs into input of that component.
Noise yes/no

If no, then plug in next set of RCA cables and install muting plugs and so on and so on....

Once you find where the hiss is being introduced we can start to work on getting rid of it.

For what this is worth (Which probably isnt much) hiss is almost always a gain structure issue and occasionally a bad part. This is why we have input and out put gains on most of our gear.

Now, if you find the noise/his is introduced by the 6to8 then we need to look at it's gain structure.

The idea is to use as MUSH of the unclipped output as you can from one component to the next so if you have a head unit that you have verified doesn't clip then you should be turning it all the way up.

Then adjust the input gains on the 6to8 (Assuming that is what is next in line) to the point that the clipping circuit shuts down with the head all the way up.

Then find maximum un-distorted output of the 6to8 so you are running the largest signal possible into each amp.

I have been doing this a long time and one thing that I have learned the hard way over and over again is never to assume that a component is good or bad. Test test test


----------



## DeanE10

strakele said:


> Full system connected: hiss
> RCA from HU to processor removed: hiss
> RCA from processor to amps removed: no hiss
> Full system connected, processor output muted: no hiss
> 
> Please tell me what you would think was the culprit given this information.


?Was the culprit? Meaning you figured it out?


----------



## pdqwrx

As for Dave and Richards articles being long in the tooth...

Last time I checked we still had gains on pretty much every component in car audio and they don't adjust themselves. Headunits have not necessarily gotten better infact, many of the autoloudness contours and image enhancers are nothing more then EQ curves that you may have very little control over and could help drive that bitchin pre amp section into clipping.

As for gain overlap, If you start off using their system and you need more output you can always cheat a gain here or there but if you can't get things quiet their way you don't know where your starting from.


----------



## DeanE10

I honestly think I either have a bad unit or something is seriously crazy going on with my system that I am either overlooking or have not thought of...

All of the Zapco equipment I just removed from my truck to install this Mosconi gear had ZERO noise using all of the same ground locations. The only change was I added RCA's

All of the Rockford equipment I removed to install the Zapco gear had ZERO noise using the same ground locations and RCA's as the Mosconi's...

Odd isn't it?

Biggest issue is it's very faint... barely noticeable... But I can hear it...


----------



## pdqwrx

DeanE10- If your noise is a hiss then most of what you mentioned isn't probably applicable anyway. Look at the gains....

One advantage/disadvantage of the old Zapco gear was that it took away the adjustability of the processor output gain because it was installed in the amp. 

Also, does your 6to8 have the latest firmware? My understanding from Duane at ORCA is that there are some subtle differences between the updates in regards to the gain settings.


----------



## DeanE10

pdqwrx said:


> DeanE10- If your noise is a hiss then most of what you mentioned isn't probably applicable anyway. Look at the gains....
> 
> One advantage/disadvantage of the old Zapco gear was that it took away the adjustability of the processor output gain because it was installed in the amp.
> 
> Also, does your 6to8 have the latest firmware? My understanding from Duane at ORCA is that there are some subtle differences between the updates in regards to the gain settings.


I also have alternator whine at the same low level, just barely noticeable... I also have firmware version 1.1 which is why I started posting on this thread to find out if I should upgrade or not.


----------



## decibelle

pdqwrx said:


> Also, does your 6to8 have the latest firmware? My understanding from Duane at ORCA is that there are some subtle differences between the updates in regards to the gain settings.


FWIW, I do not have the latest firmware and I have no hiss/noise. strakele has the latest firmware, and he's got the noise. Related? Probably not.

We will swap out 6to8s this afternoon and see what happens. That may be all it takes.


----------



## strakele

Yes, you do have the latest firmware 1.2.

Firmware =/= tuning software version.


----------



## decibelle

Oops you're right, misread his post :blush: Coffee time, methinks.

edit: but come to think of it, did you still have the noise even with the old firmware? I don't remember how long you've dealt with it.


----------



## strakele

Idk. Almost every component in the car has changed since then.


----------



## DeanE10

Graysons car sounds too good anyway... He needs to keep that hiss just to give everyone else a fair advantage


----------



## strakele

lol. I don't even get marked off for it - it's not that bad. I'm just anal about system noise and rattles.

A/C, road noise, etc don't bother me so much. But hiss and buzzes and rattles drive me crazy.


----------



## DeanE10

strakele said:


> lol. I don't even get marked off for it - it's not that bad. I'm just anal about system noise and rattles.
> 
> A/C, road noise, etc don't bother me so much. But hiss and buzzes and rattles drive me crazy.


Same for me... I just got judged last weekend but it is so faint that its not even noticeable... But I KNOW it's there and want to get rid of it is all


----------



## strakele

Did anyone ever check if the inputs accept balanced?


----------



## pdqwrx

Did you get your noise problem figured out?


----------



## DeanE10

strakele said:


> Did anyone ever check if the inputs accept balanced?


Yes, flip the switch over to BTL


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## cobb2819

Btl is for auto turn on


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## t3sn4f2

So what the hell ever happened to that digital input controlled master volume option on the 6to8?


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> Did anyone ever check if the inputs accept balanced?


IIRC, the inputs are neither balanced impedance, nor differential input.


----------



## cobb2819

t3sn4f2 said:


> So what the hell ever happened to that digital input controlled master volume option on the 6to8?


What?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cobb2819

Neil_J said:


> IIRC, the inputs are neither balanced impedance, nor differential input.


Worked just fine for me in a BMW with balanced differential input from the factory hifi setup. Same goes for another customer of mine who took one home and installed himself.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Guest

t3sn4f2 said:


> So what the hell ever happened to that digital input controlled master volume option on the 6to8?


As I understand, the digital input board would need to be installed... Then you would run both digital and RCA out to the 6to8... The signal is carried via digital connection and volume is controled via RCA...

I will know for sure when mine arrive...


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## cobb2819

SQ_MDX said:


> As I understand, the digital input board would need to be installed... Then you would run both digital and RCA out to the 6to8... The signal is carried via digital connection and volume is controled via RCA...
> 
> I will know for sure when mine arrive...


This is correct. Just check vol trigger from 1&2 in the aux optical tab and you're off to the races. This is how I'm gonna run the i20 vol control. Output optical straight to 6to8, analog out to aux in on radio, radio output to 6to8 analog in. It'll auto sense the optical in, and I'll change my radio to aux and use vol control. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> What?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





SQ_MDX said:


> As I understand, the digital input board would need to be installed... Then you would run both digital and RCA out to the 6to8... The signal is carried via digital connection and volume is controled via RCA...





Mitsu1grn said:


> The digital input feature will be available in April. Once that is installed, the unit can be configured to use ANY HEAD UNIT FACTORY OR AFTERMARKET as the source for volume control. The way this would work is if you have an aftermarket head unit that has a digital output and analog output that are both constant. You would input interconnect from your headunit into input 1/2 on the DSP. You would also install your S/PDIF into the digital input of the DSP out of same headunit. If both the analog and digital signals are working, then when you turn the volume up or down on your headunit the DSP would see the voltage change via the analog input stage ( channel 1/2), and adjust voltage output accordingly for all output channels that are enabled.
> 
> Hope that clears this up.
> 
> Nick


Yeah but, is it nothing more than a pre-release marketing function.


----------



## Guest

Cobb2819:
I plan to the same thing with my W205...


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## Neil_J

cobb2819 said:


> Worked just fine for me in a BMW with balanced differential input from the factory hifi setup. Same goes for another customer of mine who took one home and installed himself.


Ok let me clarify. IIRC, Mosconi 6to8 has a single-ended, non-balanced-impedance input. Will it work with an impedance balanced input?? Maybe, maybe not. In most cases, the (-) leg can be tied to ground, but in others, it should be left disconnected. Or a transformer can be used. YMMV.. It worked for you, but may not work for everyone.


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## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> This is correct. Just check vol trigger from 1&2 in the aux optical tab and you're off to the races. This is how I'm gonna run the i20 vol control. Output optical straight to 6to8, analog out to aux in on radio, radio output to 6to8 analog in. It'll auto sense the optical in, and I'll change my radio to aux and use vol control.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Now we know that/how such an important feature works. Thank you for that. Too bad we had to fish for it from end users on an internet forum though.


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## cobb2819

t3sn4f2 said:


> Yeah but, is it nothing more than a pre-release marketing function.


Again...what?


----------



## cobb2819

SQ_MDX said:


> Cobb2819:
> I plan to the same thing with my W205...


Are you gonna utilize both Optical inputs and run optical from the W205 and Optical from a different source?


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## Guest

No, I really didn't think about a second source.... but now you've got me mulling it over...


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## cobb2819

SQ_MDX said:


> No, I really didn't think about a second source.... but now you've got me mulling it over...


the w205 only outputs the transport via optical, no other functions of the radio. This would be cool because it just goes auto switching crazy, haha, but I just wasn't sure if you were thinking about something like the i20 when you quoted my post.


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## Guest

What exactly is the i20 ?


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## cobb2819

SQ_MDX said:


> What exactly is the i20 ?


optical ipod interface...in a nutshell.


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## t3sn4f2

SQ_MDX said:


> What exactly is the i20 ?


http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/118616-testing-pure-i20-bit-1-5-ipod-pad-phone-digital-output.html


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## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> This is correct. Just check vol trigger from 1&2 in the aux optical tab and you're off to the races. This is how I'm gonna run the i20 vol control. Output optical straight to 6to8, analog out to aux in on radio, radio output to 6to8 analog in. It'll auto sense the optical in, and I'll change my radio to aux and use vol control.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You might want to look into another option as well. Instead of the i-20 you can try an Apple digital AV adapter dongle which gives you an HDMI and the usual USB port. This will allow you to display and control the iDevice as usual from the head unit's iDevice integration and give you an HDMI port which will be your digital SQ feed to the 6to8. 

You'll need an HDMI to S/PDIF converter to make the digital signal compatible with the 6to8.

The analog side is a little more flexible in options. You can use a hdmi converter which besides provide the toslink/coax output can also give you a cheap analog out which you can use for the AUX in on the head unit. Or you can, use an idevice oem integration piece that gives you the needed analog output into the head unit bus. Or just straight USB into a compatible head unit.

The only downside to these idea is that not many head units are compatible with it. I only know of one head unit that still provide normal USB function out the port and give you an HDMI signal to convert (ie Alpine INA-W910). But if you already have the idevice and head unit then all you need to try it out is the $40 dongle and the ~$100 hdmi-spdif converter. Both of which can be returned. I'd recommend skipping the purchase of the converter for the test and just bring out a home device that has hdmi input and see if you get an audio signal but I dunno if the hdmi signal in the idevice needed to handshake with the HDMI device to output a signal. Which would make testing with the home device pointless since the car will use a different hdmi device (ie the hdmi to spdif converter).


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## Neil_J

How much are the SPDIF daughter cards for the 6to8? Aren't there two different versions? (if so, I would be looking for the cheap one)


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## cobb2819

I've already got the i20 in and running, and since my head unit has no decent option for iPod control, it make no sense to waste time with all the USB/control system integration. I have also installed an ir repeater and small dedicated power supply, so I have retained all function of the i20, and the new enclosure is maybe 4"x4". I plug in my iDevice, hit play, and I'm golden. This option also allows me to use any playback app I wish, so I can switch from the native player to golden ear or pandora or SiriusXM without an accessory override.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

Neil_J said:


> How much are the SPDIF daughter cards for the 6to8? Aren't there two different versions? (if so, I would be looking for the cheap one)


The spdif card is like $300. They have announced an optical card with like a single optical input, but I do not believe it is available yet.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> This is correct. Just check vol trigger from 1&2 in the aux optical tab and you're off to the races. This is how I'm gonna run the i20 vol control. Output optical straight to 6to8, analog out to aux in on radio, radio output to 6to8 analog in. It'll auto sense the optical in, and I'll change my radio to aux and use vol control.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Cobb, what happens when you switch to a head unit source other than the one that you are running a parallel optical to the 6to8 for? Does seamlessly return the 6to8's master volume output to where you would normally have it if not in analog/digital reference mode (ie full volume)?


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> I'm a Mosconi Dealer...so...yeah.
> 
> And I'll be using a Pure I20 adapted over, and it should be here any minute...will post pics.


I just contacted my JL-dealer in my country and got a fair price. So I am a happy owner of a mosconi 6to8 with the digital board AND a mosconi AS 100.4 
I hope the system delivers good sound, because this is getting pretty expensive for a student that just want good sound. 


Have you been doing any progress with your build?


----------



## DAT

Ratking said:


> I just contacted my *JL-dealer *in my country and got a fair price. So I am a happy owner of a mosconi 6to8 with the digital board AND a mosconi AS 100.4
> I hope the system delivers good sound, because this is getting pretty expensive for a student that just want good sound.
> 
> 
> Have you been doing any progress with your build?




JL Dealer?


----------



## Ratking

DAT said:


> JL Dealer?



Haha, good catch. Had to read it twice before I understood what you meant. 
It's off course a Mosconi dealer


----------



## t3sn4f2

Ratking said:


> I just contacted my JL-dealer in my country and got a fair price. So I am a happy owner of a mosconi 6to8 with the digital board AND a mosconi AS 100.4
> I hope the system delivers good sound, because this is getting pretty expensive for a student that just want good sound.
> 
> 
> Have you been doing any progress with your build?


That's a highly flexible high quality DSP and a competent high quality amp. They aren't going to guarantee you good sound but they certainly aren't going to be the cause if can't get it.


----------



## Ratking

t3sn4f2 said:


> That's a highly flexible high quality DSP and a competent high quality amp. They aren't going to guarantee you good sound but they certainly aren't going to be the cause if can't get it.


Time will show how good my setup will be. For now I have problems with putting all the components together. There are a lot of things I have to solve before I pull out the interior of the car and put all the stuff in.


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> The spdif card is like $300. They have announced an optical card with like a single optical input, but I do not believe it is available yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Hello

I have a question for you since you know mosconi. 
Do you know when the display with master volume control will be available? 
I need a way to control the volume from my Ipad and I know that this is impossible trough the spdif. What is your solution?
Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Hello
> 
> I have a question for you since you know mosconi.
> Do you know when the display with master volume control will be available?
> I need a way to control the volume from my Ipad and I know that this is impossible trough the spdif. What is your solution?
> Thanks


What iPad / optical interface are you using??


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> What iPad / optical interface are you using??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have not decided yet. I may go with the same as you, but it depends what the pros and cons are. Since I need a way to convert usb to spdif/optical and a way to control the volume I am pretty much open to the best solution. 
Do you have a build tread where you have more details?

Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

i20 will do "Vol" control over sp/dif. Or a simple RCA level control nob or head unit with AUX input will allow for analog vol control of the 6to8 sp/dif input.


----------



## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> i20 will do "Vol" control over sp/dif. Or a simple RCA level control nob or head unit with AUX input will allow for analog vol control of the 6to8 sp/dif input.


I would not recommend using it though. I tested it using signal analysis software and it is of relatively poor quality. But worse than that it is a linear master volume instead of LOG. That mean that it get really loud right away from the minimum setting and doesn't increase/change much for the 75% remaining range. To add to that it does not have a standard master volume range of 80dB (more like 40dB IIRC) and the lower settings where the volume is hyper sensitive does not have only but a handful or increments.

IOW, I would and could not use it. That volume control is an after though just like the remote that controls it is.


----------



## cobb2819

t3sn4f2 said:


> I would not recommend using it though. I tested it using signal analysis software and it is of relatively poor quality. But worse than that it is a linear master volume instead of LOG. That mean that it get really loud right away from the minimum setting and doesn't increase/change much for the 75% remaining range. To add to that it does not have a standard master volume range of 80dB (more like 40dB IIRC) and the lower settings where the volume is hyper sensitive does not have only but a handful or increments.
> 
> IOW, I would and could not use it. That volume control is an after though just like the remote that controls it is.


Right...I remember reading through the thread but just couldn't remember the details..I just said that it "could" do it. All you REALLY need is some RCA cables and a Pac LC-1 and you have volume control.


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> Right...I remember reading through the thread but just couldn't remember the details..I just said that it "could" do it. All you REALLY need is some RCA cables and a Pac LC-1 and you have volume control.


I've read a bit about the I-20 and even the hi-fi guys think it is a nice piece of equipment. Even though it will not fit the newer Iphones etc. I read that they won't produce any more of them. 

Would you not need a voltage source to use the Pac lc-1? It seems to me that it only works as a variable resistor that have a voltage drop dependent of the desired volume. But isnt the hu the voltage source?

Have you tested the I-20 with a Ipad?


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> I've read a bit about the I-20 and even the hi-fi guys think it is a nice piece of equipment. Even though it will not fit the newer Iphones etc. I read that they won't produce any more of them.
> 
> Would you not need a voltage source to use the Pac lc-1? It seems to me that it only works as a variable resistor that have a voltage drop dependent of the desired volume. But isnt the hu the voltage source?
> 
> Have you tested the I-20 with a Ipad?


If you're using a head unit does, it have aux input? If it does, just run the optical to the from the i20 to the 6to8. Then run analog from the i20 to the aux in on the hu, then pre amp out from the hu to input 1-2 on the 6to8. Then just enable vol trigger for sp/dif from input 1-2 and you have volume control. You can substitute the hu for the PAC lc-1. 

I have not tested the i20 with an iPad, but I guess I can today. I'm gonna be tearing into my car today. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> If you're using a head unit does, it have aux input? If it does, just run the optical to the from the i20 to the 6to8. *Then run analog from the i20 to the aux in on the hu,* then pre amp out from the hu to input 1-2 on the 6to8. Then just enable vol trigger for sp/dif from input 1-2 and you have volume control. You can substitute the hu for the PAC lc-1.
> 
> I have not tested the i20 with an iPad, but I guess I can today. I'm gonna be tearing into my car today.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


To add to this, I'd also make sure that the i-20's output voltage level is not clipping the input stage of the the head unit's AUX. That could mess with the 6to8's volume sensing circuit. Checking is involved but resolving the issue is easy. Simply lower the volume on the i-20 or on the head unit's source level adjuster (if equipped). Attenuation quality of either won't matter in this app.


----------



## Ratking

t3sn4f2 said:


> To add to this, I'd also make sure that the i-20's output voltage level is not clipping the input stage of the the head unit's AUX. That could mess with the 6to8's volume sensing circuit. Checking is involved but resolving the issue is easy. Simply lower the volume on the i-20 or on the head unit's source level adjuster (if equipped). Attenuation quality of either won't matter in this app.


Thank you and cobb2819, I think I've got a better understanding how I can make this work. In fact, I feel confident enough to rip out the interior and install all the wires now that I know what I need.


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Thank you and cobb2819, I think I've got a better understanding how I can make this work. In fact, I feel confident enough to rip out the interior and install all the wires now that I know what I need.


If you've got more questions, email me or drop me a PM.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

t3sn4f2 said:


> To add to this, I'd also make sure that the i-20's output voltage level is not clipping the input stage of the the head unit's AUX. That could mess with the 6to8's volume sensing circuit. Checking is involved but resolving the issue is easy. Simply lower the volume on the i-20 or on the head unit's source level adjuster (if equipped). Attenuation quality of either won't matter in this app.


When you were playing with the i20, did you notice clipping at all, or did you just look at the optical output? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> When you were playing with the i20, did you notice clipping at all, or did you just look at the optical output?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Nope, no obvious audible clipping. The analog output is clean at full volume with a -3dB thd test signal. I haven't tested with a stronger signal to see what happens when it hits the digital roof, but I've never seen a device that measure that well have any problems with clipping of fullscale signals. Would not be audible by any means even if it did fall apart that high though. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/109034-pure-i-20-digital-ipod-dock-analog-output-rmaa-measurements.html


----------



## nickalways4u

Anyone here using the mosconi 6to8 without the optical input?
Wanted to know whats the difference between using an optical connection and low/high level inputs in terms of the performance.
And also how do you people rate 6to8's DACs


----------



## Neil_J

nickalways4u said:


> And also how do you people rate 6to8's DACs


Let's put it this way, you'd have to be a pretty snobby audiophile to turn your nose at them. It uses a TI/Burr Brown PCM3168A 6-in / 8-out combo DAC / ADC, of the sigma-delta type. The DAC specs are -94dB THD+N, 112 dB SNR, 112 dB dynamic range, and sampling freqs up to 192 kHz. 8 Vpp voltage out of the DAC (the Mosconi runs these through opamps to put out 4 volts RMS. 

There are better DACs out there, but there are certainly worse. Power supply noise, fs clocking, pcb layout, and opamp driver circuits in the 6to8 are much more likely to taint the output than the DAC chip is.


----------



## tonny

I'am using the mosconi with a rca input, whitch sounds better than using my old alpine 
h900 f1 dsp with the optical input!


----------



## t3sn4f2

nickalways4u said:


> Anyone here using the mosconi 6to8 without the optical input?
> Wanted to know whats the difference between using an optical connection and low/high level inputs in terms of the performance.
> And also how do you people rate 6to8's DACs


Going of what Neil mentioned, its going to come down only to your analog sources quality and/or install. IOW, that processor will not audibly color the sound one bit.


----------



## james2266

tonny said:


> I'am using the mosconi with a rca input, whitch sounds better than using my old alpine
> h900 f1 dsp with the optical input!


Mine also sounds better than my Bit One.1 with a much lower noise floor. I am using strictly rca input from a Pioneer Z110BT HU going into an Audison LRx5.1k and a Mosconi One 120.4. The sq and loudness in my setup is pretty impressive if I do say so myself. I think I might finally be getting close to what I was originally looking for. That new Arc PS8 is intriguing to me as well but no money for that and I want to see how it does first and I am very happy with what I have right now processor wise.


----------



## n_olympios

tonny said:


> I'am using the mosconi with a rca input, whitch sounds better than using my old alpine
> h900 f1 dsp with the optical input!


Which HU are you using?


----------



## quality_sound

james2266 said:


> Mine also sounds better than my Bit One.1 with a much lower noise floor. I am using strictly rca input from a Pioneer Z110BT HU going into an Audison LRx5.1k and a Mosconi One 120.4. The sq and loudness in my setup is pretty impressive if I do say so myself. I think I might finally be getting close to what I was originally looking for. That new Arc PS8 is intriguing to me as well but no money for that and I want to see how it does first and I am very happy with what I have right now processor wise.


I can believe it's better than the B1.1. I didn't really like mine. But better than the H900? That's a little tougher to believe. I'm not saying it's not possible, but given the massive price point difference, particularly if you adjust the H900's price to match current time, it's just kind of a stretch.


----------



## n_olympios

Although I am an H900 owner and user, I don't have much trouble believing it. The Mosconi is after all several years younger in design/manufacture, with all the newer and better stuff that comes with that. On the other hand, having seen the inside of the F#1 status processor and knowing how well built it is even for today's standards, either on the analog or the digital domain, I'd like a verification on the HU used as that might be the culprit. 

Pricewise, well the H900 did other things as well (surround etc) that upped its cost.


----------



## quality_sound

I know the H900 tested better than the H800 in Erin's test.


----------



## tonny

First I did use a alpine dvd changer with optical out put into the h900, after that I did 
use the h-900 as da convertor and then with a rca cable into the 6to8 that sounded 
already better that a direct rca to the amp form the h900... 

Now I'am using a clarion hxd2 with a rca cable direct in the 6to8, that sounds even better 
as with the alpine set!


----------



## nickalways4u

Anyone used it with the Panasonic Bottlehead.??This is what i am having.


----------



## DAT

nickalways4u said:


> Anyone used it with the Panasonic Bottlehead.??This is what i am having.


Yes, works great...


----------



## thehatedguy

I can believe it too. My old h900 never sounded, I dunno right. It was a big let down coming from the rane.


----------



## quality_sound

thehatedguy said:


> I can believe it too. My old h900 never sounded, I dunno right. It was a big let down *coming from the rane.*


I found the problem...


----------



## n_olympios

tonny said:


> First I did use a alpine dvd changer with optical out put into the h900, after that I did use the h-900 as da convertor and then with a rca cable into the 6to8 that sounded already better that a direct rca to the amp form the h900...


So you basically used the H900 simply as a DAC? 



tonny said:


> Now I'am using a clarion hxd2


I think we got our answer.  

Not very fair on the Alpine if you're judging it as a processor but with different HU's eh?


----------



## tonny

n_olympios said:


> So you basically used the H900 simply as a DAC?
> 
> 
> 
> I think we got our answer.
> 
> Not very fair on the Alpine if you're judging it as a processor but with different HU's eh?


I also did test them with a older alpine head unit with optical output, first optical and ai-net to the h900 and after that a rca from the headunit to the mosconi, even then the mosconi was better! 
then I tested the system with the h900 as a dac and from there in to the 
mosconi and even that sounded better than de h900 direct to the amp's!

After that I'd started to use the clarion instead off the alpine gear.


----------



## n_olympios

Ah ok then. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## tonny

No problem!


----------



## mob17

Nice to read so much info. 

Im currently deciding between a Helix P-DSP and this Mosconi. What are the differences between each one? I have used the demo software if the Helix which i think is very good, but have heard the GUI of the Mosconi isn't. But performance wise, using hi level input, which offers more?


----------



## tonny

I'am using the 6to8 for some time now and for me the software is really easy to use!

You can see for your self when you download the software from: GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## bengl3rt

Anyone using/got pictures of the wired remote?


----------



## oca123

So I downloaded the software. Man, it's clunky.
I also downloaded the PS8 software to compare.

I have a PS8 on order, but now that I look at the Mosconi, I'm thinking maybe I should just get a 6to8, with the bluetooth module... I have an android phone....

What does the PS8 do that the 6to8 doesn't do? 

In terms of SQ/noise, are we looking at a significant improvement, or are the humidity and altitude going to make more of a difference than the input and output stages of the PS8 vs 6to8? I guess this question is directed towards Neil more than anyone else


----------



## ErinH

Depends on what you want out of your system and the features/controls you desire. I just sold my 6to8 in favor of the ps8.


----------



## oca123

I guess the factor that makes it all a mess is the delayed release of the bluetooth module, remote, etc. and the fact that Arc has not even announced a date for these yet. That, combined with how late they are on releasing the PS8, could mean these could come out in 2 years or never.

I'm curious about handsfree via the 6to8 and bluetooth. does the 6to8 show up as a handset?


----------



## oca123

bikinpunk said:


> Depends on what you want out of your system and the features/controls you desire. I just sold my 6to8 in favor of the ps8.


I don't think that your decision has much to do with what you want out of yoru system or the features/controls you desire since the PS8 as it stands has very few controls.
I think it depends on whether you are addicted to switching gear or not.
I know I am, and I have an MS8, a Bitone, an H800, a carputer... but somehow I missed the 6to8 bandwagon.

Maybe I should get one, keep it a few days, then sell it, and then get the PS8... I would get caught up that way


----------



## quality_sound

oca123 said:


> I guess the factor that makes it all a mess is the delayed release of the bluetooth module, remote, etc. and the fact that Arc has not even announced a date for these yet. That, combined with how late they are on releasing the PS8, could mean these could come out in 2 years or never.
> 
> I'm curious about handsfree via the 6to8 and bluetooth. does the 6to8 show up as a handset?


The PS8 isn't late. It started shipping on time and is filtering out as planned.


----------



## Neil_J

oca123 said:


> In terms of SQ/noise, are we looking at a significant improvement, or are the humidity and altitude going to make more of a difference than the input and output stages of the PS8 vs 6to8? I guess this question is directed towards Neil more than anyone else


Bikin is probably your man, not me :-/ I'm only familiar with the PS8's specs, I've not had the chance to listen to it other than SBN. I did post a bit about them both earlier in this thread. Both are transparent audio-wise. PS8 is better spec-wise but we all know specs and marketing numbers aren't everything. Mosconi 6to8 software blows IMO, the PS8's software is being well received so far. You'll likely be very happy with either, if you've got a PS8 on order, I think you'll be a happy camper


----------



## ErinH

oca123 said:


> I don't think that your decision has much to do with what you want out of yoru system or the features/controls you desire* since the PS8 as it stands has very few controls.*
> I think it depends on whether you are addicted to switching gear or not.


do what?....

No. And. No.

the ps8 has more controls than any other car audio dsp on the market currently. the helix is the only piece that beats it via feature (the c-dsp only) and I've owned it... sold it, too, as the level of attenuation on either the eq or the output levels are in full dB increments only. Otherwise, I can't really think of anything DSP wise that it lacks compared to the Arc piece. But, it's been about 8 months since my hands have been on it or even used the software. The PS8 does have limiting and remote in/out delay control... I know those are features no other car audio dsp has control of. there are some others that are close but not quite there. That, and the build quality (at this point, just something supposed because there are none of them really floating around) are what caused me to choose the ps8. Basically, it's about the closest I can get to a Rane/Behringer/DBx without having to spend $500 for a 12v mod (Rane/DBX) or dedicating more real estate than I have for the install (all).


yes, I switch gear a lot but there is one PRIMARY reason I got rid of the mosconi and it's the same reason some others have or are going to: the muting 'feature' (which has been addressed already here ad nauseum and which I've posted videos on as well). It is the root of a system architecture issue and THAT'S why I sold mine. I'd be happy to give you names if you'd like to do some fact checking. All of them are competitors and we have all gotten docked for the same issue and it's all rooted in the muting feature of the mosconi. If it weren't for that, I wouldn't have sold it. So, yes, it absolutely has everything to do with what I want out of the system (or, in this case, don't want out of the system), regardless of how well you think you know me.


----------



## ErinH

Neil_J said:


> Bikin is probably your man, not me :-/ I'm only familiar with the PS8's specs, I've not had the chance to listen to it other than SBN. I did post a bit about them both earlier in this thread. Both are transparent audio-wise. PS8 is better spec-wise but we all know specs and marketing numbers aren't everything. Mosconi 6to8 software blows IMO, the PS8's software is being well received so far. You'll likely be very happy with either, if you've got a PS8 on order, I think you'll be a happy camper


I hated the mosconi software at first, but once I got used to it it didn't bother me. In fact, I kind of liked it after a while.

The one thing that drove me nuts about it was the preset load time. Whenever you'd fire up the computer to tune it cycles through all four presets, whether or not you're using them. This takes about 1-2 minutes... which seems like an eternitiy when all you want to do is fix the level of your tweeter by 0.5dB. lol. 

Everything has it's quirks, though. This wasn't a deal breaker for me. Just an annoyance.


----------



## thehatedguy

The p-dsp has more features than the ps8 solely on the ability to do phase adjustments.

They both can do input mixing.

Forgot the helix sq only goes in 1db steps.


----------



## ErinH

thehatedguy said:


> Forgot the helix sq only goes in 1db steps.


exactly.

the p-dsp loses out simply due to channels. the c-dsp wins. BUT, the kicker is the 1dB increments.

Of course, someone should verify this is still the same. Again, it's been a while. I requested this be addressed but someone said it's still the same as of last month.


The helix units don't have variable remote in/out delay. This isn't a deal breaker, but it is a feature worth mentioning.


----------



## Neil_J

bikinpunk said:


> The one thing that drove me nuts about it was the preset load time. Whenever you'd fire up the computer to tune it cycles through all four presets, whether or not you're using them. This takes about 1-2 minutes... which seems like an eternitiy when all you want to do is fix the level of your tweeter by 0.5dB.


Those are the exact reasons that I hate it so much (that and the Windows-only compatibilty). Seems really idiotic, why couldn't they just check the preset data against an md5 hash or checksum, and only send the block if they don't match?? How long would that take to write? An hour or so? Just seems they kind of brushed their hands and walked away. 

Sigh.... I guess listening to your users and implementing features is a quick way to go broke in this industry


----------



## oca123

bikinpunk said:


> do what?....
> No. And. No.


I meant there is no remote and no android app to control it. my fault for posting on my way out and not proof-reading


----------



## oca123

Neil_J said:


> Those are the exact reasons that I hate it so much (that and the Windows-only compatibilty). Seems really idiotic, why couldn't they just check the preset data against an md5 hash or checksum, and only send the block if they don't match?? How long would that take to write? An hour or so? Just seems they kind of brushed their hands and walked away.
> 
> Sigh.... I guess listening to your users and implementing features is a quick way to go broke in this industry


True. I'm talking out of my a$$ here but for that to work and actually be useful the HW would need to compute a checksum or hash, and the GUI would do the same, then both would be compared.
Maybe the people coding the GUI and the ones coding the HW are two different teams so the GUI guys worked with whatever API they had?


----------



## oca123

quality_sound said:


> The PS8 isn't late. It started shipping on time and is filtering out as planned.


I dont know, my dealer told me at least 4 times in the last year that it was a couple of weeks away, etc. - that's what I mean by late.

Also, Arc told my dealer our units would ship this week.... but they didn't. So mine is late anyway


----------



## Neil_J

oca123 said:


> True. I'm talking out of my a$$ here but for that to work and actually be useful the HW would need to compute a checksum or hash, and the GUI would do the same, then both would be compared.
> Maybe the people coding the GUI and the ones coding the HW are two different teams so the GUI guys worked with whatever API they had?


Doubtful, any good EE should be able to work both sides of that. I think they're either (A) pretty happy with what they have (and likely downright proud), or (B) simply have other products that are more important at the moment.


----------



## thehatedguy

Aren't the helix, arc, and mosconi using the same dsp chip? I know the helix and arc are, but can't remember the third one.


----------



## Neil_J

thehatedguy said:


> Aren't the helix, arc, and mosconi using the same dsp chip? I know the helix and arc are, but can't remember the third one.


Don't think so. Mosconi 6to8 uses Texas Instruments TAS3108A. Not sure which processor the Helix and/or Arc uses, but they're both ~170 MHz, so could be similar. Anyone want to take one apart and reply back here?


----------



## ErinH

If I had either of the two I'd be happy to.


----------



## thehatedguy

Maybe I got my 3 mixed up...could have happened.


----------



## strakele

Neil_J said:


> Those are the exact reasons that I hate it so much (that and the Windows-only compatibilty). Seems really idiotic, why couldn't they just check the preset data against an md5 hash or checksum, and only send the block if they don't match?? How long would that take to write? An hour or so? Just seems they kind of brushed their hands and walked away.
> 
> Sigh.... I guess listening to your users and implementing features is a quick way to go broke in this industry


I think smaller companies like this just don't have the resources to develop a cross platform system. It took enough work just making it for one OS. That and the ratio of Windows to any other OS out there (especially in other countries) is just so large that they simply don't care about the 12 extra sales they might make by spending all the time and money writing it for Mac OS/Linux/etc. I don't think any laptop tunable processor is designed for anything other than Windows. Haven't checked them all though, could be wrong.

Regarding the checksum and everything, that'd only work if you opened the software, made a change you wanted, and then wanted to connect and send it to the processor without changing everything else. Useful in some situations I guess. Another option might be, when you connect the software, for it to give you an option of which presets you want to load to work on. 

I don't know how everyone else does it, but I tune with the laptop actually connected so I can hear the real time changes. I don't make changes in the software while sitting on my couch then go load it to the processor to try. So at least for me, I need it to read the presets off the 6to8's memory so I can work on it them.

That being said, the preset loading should be a hell of a lot faster. 600Kb of data to transfer over USB should be darn near instant. That could certainly be optimized.

Regarding listening to users... I've been running the 6to8 since March and there have been no less than 7 software updates during that time, which were almost entirely user input driven. Please tell me one other processor with that kind of support.

That's one of the things that keeps me with it, honestly. Sure, there are things that frustrate me about it, but I feel like, of all the processors out there, I have the greatest chance of my issue being fixed by telling someone at Mosconi about it. In fact of the couple people I know personally who run this processor, some of the changes that have been made came from us. Of course there are a couple hardware issues that won't be fixed.


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> I think smaller companies like this just don't have the resources to develop a cross platform system. It took enough work just making it for one OS. That and the ratio of Windows to any other OS out there (especially in other countries) is just so large that they simply don't care about the 12 extra sales they might make by spending all the time and money writing it for Mac OS/Linux/etc. I don't think any laptop tunable processor is designed for anything other than Windows. Haven't checked them all though, could be wrong.


No offense, but I call BS there, I do software development for a living. There is no reason that they couldn't have wrote the tuning app in a cross-platform development environment like Qt. If you're not familiar with Qt, the idea is that you write it once, and it will compile separate executables for each platform, including, among others, Windows, Linux, Mac OSX, FreeBSD, Solaris, and mobile platforms such as Windows Mobile, Embedded Linux, iPhone, Android, webOS, BlackBerry, and soon: Android. There are plenty of other cross-platform development tools out there, I single-handedly write cross-platform apps all the time, no it's not a big deal. The only excuse is laziness or ignorance. 

A lot of developers are Microsoft shills that write exclusively in Visual Studio, Microsoft has invested quite a lot in them to keep them on the Windows platform to extend their monopoly. This has been documented quite well, but is too off-topic to discuss here.



> Regarding the checksum and everything, that'd only work if you opened the software, made a change you wanted, and then wanted to connect and send it to the processor without changing everything else. Useful in some situations I guess. Another option might be, when you connect the software, for it to give you an option of which presets you want to load to work on.


No. Imagine the DSP has calculated the checksums for all four presets, individually. The User Interface has done the same. I go to connect the 6to8 to my laptop. The user interface software (which usually just downloads all four presets), instead queries the checksum from the 6to8 and checks it against the ones in the UI. They match, so instead of going through the process of downloading all four presets, it simply lets you start editing. For most people that only edit with one laptop, this would save a lot of headaches, especially if you dragged the laptop out for a 0.5 dB change on a tweeter, as Bikinpunk put it.



> I don't know how everyone else does it, but I tune with the laptop actually connected so I can hear the real time changes. I don't make changes in the software while sitting on my couch then go load it to the processor to try. So at least for me, I need it to read the presets off the 6to8's memory so I can work on it them.


If you only have one laptop and one 6to8, then both the laptop and the 6to8 presets will likely match the next time you plug them in. 

Here's how I do it, which may explain why it's so frustrating for me. I own a MacBook Pro. First, I have to close all of my open programs in OSX and reboot into Windows 7 using Boot Camp. Then, wait forever for Windows to boot and become responsive. Then open the 6to8 software and wait a few minutes for the presets to download. I can't do any changes from my phone. I can't do any changes from my tablet. They don't have a wired remote yet, so I can't make changes from that. Total First World Problems, right?? 



> That being said, the preset loading should be a hell of a lot faster. 600Kb of data to transfer over USB should be darn near instant. That could certainly be optimized.


Yep. Most definitely.



> Regarding listening to users... I've been running the 6to8 since March and there have been no less than 7 software updates during that time, which were almost entirely user input driven. Please tell me one other processor with that kind of support.


Um, the imaginary one in my head that does everything that I want it to do perfectly  In all seriousness, I am developing my own DSP from scratch, to in time, I won't have to worry about whether or not a company fixes my issues, or ignores them. I realize this isn't the path everyone wants to go down, but this is why diyma is so great, everyone can attack a problem in their own way.


----------



## bengl3rt

So no one is running it standalone with the wired remote? Is everyone using a head unit and controlling the volume with analog input?


----------



## quality_sound

oca123 said:


> I dont know, my dealer told me at least 4 times in the last year that it was a couple of weeks away, etc. - that's what I mean by late.
> 
> Also, Arc told my dealer our units would ship this week.... but they didn't. So mine is late anyway


Are you sure your dealer understands how are is doing the shipping? They're staggering the shipments so they all arrive at dealers at about the same time. The September ship date was when they would START shipping. You also gave to remember that it takes longer for the international dealers to get theirs which will affect US delivery dates.


----------



## tonny

Neil_J said:


> Here's how I do it, which may explain why it's so frustrating for me. I own a MacBook Pro. First, I have to close all of my open programs in OSX and reboot into Windows 7 using Boot Camp. Then, wait forever for Windows to boot and become responsive. Then open the 6to8 software and wait a few minutes for the presets to download. I can't do any changes from my phone. I can't do any changes from my tablet. They don't have a wired remote yet, so I can't make changes from that. Total First World Problems, right??



Or get a program like parallels and run your windows in there, that runs under
osx and your are mutch faster as you don't need shut down osx and start 
the windows version up.


----------



## quality_sound

thehatedguy said:


> The p-dsp has more features than the ps8 solely on the ability to do phase adjustments.
> 
> They both can do input mixing.
> 
> Forgot the helix sq only goes in 1db steps.


I'm pretty sure the ps8 has phase adjustments (not just polarity) and the input mixing of the ps8 is much different that the Helix. It's not just choosing which inputs drive what outputs but you can also independently adjust how much signal from each input channel you're using. Nothing else does that.


----------



## tonny

quality_sound said:


> I'm pretty sure the ps8 has phase adjustments (not just polarity) and the input mixing of the ps8 is much different that the Helix. It's not just choosing which inputs drive what outputs but you can also independently adjust how much signal from each input channel you're using. Nothing else does that.


You can do the same with the 6to8, you can also select different inputs 
and set the percentage for the volume for each output.


----------



## strakele

Neil_J said:


> No offense, but I call BS there, I do software development for a living. There is no reason that they couldn't have wrote the tuning app in a cross-platform development environment like Qt. If you're not familiar with Qt, the idea is that you write it once, and it will compile separate executables for each platform, including, among others, Windows, Linux, Mac OSX, FreeBSD, Solaris, and mobile platforms such as Windows Mobile, Embedded Linux, iPhone, Android, webOS, BlackBerry, and soon: Android. There are plenty of other cross-platform development tools out there, I single-handedly write cross-platform apps all the time, no it's not a big deal. The only excuse is laziness or ignorance.
> 
> A lot of developers are Microsoft shills that write exclusively in Visual Studio, Microsoft has invested quite a lot in them to keep them on the Windows platform to extend their monopoly. This has been documented quite well, but is too off-topic to discuss here.
> 
> *Again, I'd just guess they only have a couple dudes that work on software and none of them is very familiar with cross platform development, and they don't want to spend the money to train or hire more people for what I'm sure they perceive as very few increased sales. This is purely conjecture, I don't really know.*
> 
> No. Imagine the DSP has calculated the checksums for all four presets, individually. The User Interface has done the same. I go to connect the 6to8 to my laptop. The user interface software (which usually just downloads all four presets), instead queries the checksum from the 6to8 and checks it against the ones in the UI. They match, so instead of going through the process of downloading all four presets, it simply lets you start editing. For most people that only edit with one laptop, this would save a lot of headaches, especially if you dragged the laptop out for a 0.5 dB change on a tweeter, as Bikinpunk put it.
> 
> If you only have one laptop and one 6to8, then both the laptop and the 6to8 presets will likely match the next time you plug them in.
> 
> *Fine, that would work. But it would require you to load all 4 presets into the slots in software before connecting to the processor, (since the program always starts with a blank slate), so that they could be compared with what's on the processor.*
> 
> Here's how I do it, which may explain why it's so frustrating for me. I own a MacBook Pro. First, I have to close all of my open programs in OSX and reboot into Windows 7 using Boot Camp. Then, wait forever for Windows to boot and become responsive. Then open the 6to8 software and wait a few minutes for the presets to download. I can't do any changes from my phone. I can't do any changes from my tablet. They don't have a wired remote yet, so I can't make changes from that. Total First World Problems, right??
> 
> Yep. Most definitely.
> 
> *lol yeah. Isn't there some kind of dual boot software available? Also, first company to release full tuning software that works on tablets is gonna have it made.*
> 
> 
> Um, the imaginary one in my head that does everything that I want it to do perfectly  In all seriousness, I am developing my own DSP from scratch, to in time, I won't have to worry about whether or not a company fixes my issues, or ignores them. I realize this isn't the path everyone wants to go down, but this is why diyma is so great, everyone can attack a problem in their own way.


*Really interested to see what you come up with there. Should be really cool. Good luck!*


----------



## Melodic Acoustic

Here is my thing about all of this it should do this and it should do that or how hard would it be to do this or do that. Of all the processor out there how many of them do it. How many of them have ever done it. All these technologies are not new by any means. Some are just improved ways are doing something old.

I have worked with just about every platform out there coming from a IT and communication background. Doing simple network admin to back in the day write with JCL and C++, doing network security with just about every Firewall platform out there and load balancing to writing OPSEC and COMSEC policies. It is never that simple to do what you want or sometimes need to do. Hell guys it hard enough to get laptops to run both OS at once with doing a dual boot machine. 

We are talking about a unit that cost under a $1000 hell some of the stuff we want it do are not even done in the pro unit that cost 3-4 times as much. Hell i would love for it to allow you to leave the Bluetooth and the USB connect and just be able to choose which you would like to use. But it does not. So we want it do do all this amazing processing, run on every OS platform out there, be super fast with on load ups, but small, have great specs and be low cost so everyone can afford it. Wow the American way!! Got to love us. 

Next the Thing about the GUI. Is it the looks of it that most do not like, because it is very very easy to use. I could care less about pretty colors. I do have to agree about the load time of the presets, it does get to me every once in the while when I am in a bit of a hurry. 

I have to agree with Grayson about the fact that Mosconi does listen I know we have sent over a few things we want and it happen and happen fast. But we are just not sure what the powers to be say when a change is recommended to them. I sure the EE have to answer to someone as at some point we all do. 

Neil they do have the wired remote. I have one here in front of my now.


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> lol yeah. Isn't there some kind of dual boot software available? Also, first company to release full tuning software that works on tablets is gonna have it made.


That actually brings me to another point... *Why the heck aren't these DSP manufacturers simply putting a network jack (or better yet wifi) and a TCP/IP stack on their boards, and simply implementing the interface as an AJAX webpage, similar to what Google and facebook does with its apps?* You get instant cross-platform capability (Windows, Mac, Linux, etc), and on ALL mobile platforms as well. The ONLY requirement is a modern browser. 

This kind of an interface is not as expensive as it once was. What would this take, to implement, cost-wise?? You can but a Wiznet W1500 chip for 4 bucks! I know high-school kids that use this platform via the Arduino Ethernet interface, to write server backends that any web browser can access.

This is the kind of stuff, that if Mosconi decided to open their interface and publish their API, then people like me could step in and implement this kind of stuff for FREE, zero cost to them. Andy and I tried to work out a similar deal for the MS-8 and the JBL/Harman execs said no. Not sure what Mosconi's stance is on this.. 
*But as Strakele said, they would gain a ****-ton of momentum if they had a universal tablet platform, and there's NOTHING in the way of this, other than themselves.*


----------



## Neil_J

Audible Physics said:


> So we want it do do all this amazing processing, run on every OS platform out there, be super fast with on load ups, but small, have great specs and be low cost so everyone can afford it. Wow the American way!! Got to love us.


Yes, that is the American way. It is about raising the bar. Not sure what the Italian way is, but I love their cars... Ferrari, Maserati, Pagani, Alfa Romeo...



> Neil they do have the wired remote. I have one here in front of my now.


PICS please  Also I would like to see a list of exactly which parameters can be set with it. And what is the MSRP/Street price, and public availability date? Thanks in advance...


----------



## bengl3rt

Audible Physics said:


> Neil they do have the wired remote. I have one here in front of my now.


Pics!!


----------



## strakele

I'd bet you'd have the best luck trying to work something out with a company like Mosconi than a big name like JBL.


----------



## bertholomey

I thought the situation with writing software for a Mac was paying Apple a licensing fee.....I always that that was the reason that Mos or others didn't have a Windows version + a Mac version......I guess that is wrong. 

I run the Mos software on a MacBook Pro using Parallels, and it works fairly well when Windows is working. The software does NOT like coherence mode at all. I had to reload Windows because my install became unstable. Now I have to figure out how to get the bluetooth drivers to load again - I have them in a folder on the desktop, but when we try to get them to load, Windows says I don't need them......Microsoft.....

Anyway, I had the remote controller installed for a short time - I took a couple pictures - not sure why I didn't take one with it lit up. With the right integration, it would look pretty cool.




















It would seem that there are two versions - can see both on the Italian website.

GLADEN DSP 6to8


----------



## Neil_J

strakele said:


> I'd bet you'd have the best luck trying to work something out with a company like Mosconi than a big name like JBL.


True, but I've been ignored by more small companies than large ones. To name a few that have ignored or put off indefinitely my DSP ideas: Arc and MiniDSP. Andy was the only one who gave me the time of day, and stuck his neck out only to be shot down for political reasons. Oh well, I'm going Rogue, doing my own thing, and will learn a lot in the process. I'll get my own way with active-matrix center-channel extraction and rear-fill, phase-linear FIR filters, ES9018 DAC(s), picosecond jitter levels, and more than eight channels. I can't wait to see how this pans out.


----------



## Neil_J

bertholomey said:


> I thought the situation with writing software for a Mac was paying Apple a licensing fee.....I always that that was the reason that Mos or others didn't have a Windows version + a Mac version......I guess that is wrong.


Negative. You do have to create an account with Apple for a developer's license, but it's free to do so for OSX development. I think iPhone is $99, but that kind of price is a drop in the bucket for even a small business, definitely enough to justify the cost-benefit ratio. Keep in mind that this $99 also covers the cost of Apple manually going through each app and determining whether it is contains any malicious code.



> Anyway, I had the remote controller installed for a short time - I took a couple pictures - not sure why I didn't take one with it lit up. With the right integration, it would look pretty cool.


Is there a PDF manual?? I can't find one on the site. Do you know which functions it can and cannot control?? Can you change Eq and T/A settings? or is it just presets and such?


----------



## thehatedguy

Sorry it's the 360.3, c-dsp, and the ps8 that share the same cirrus logic chip.


----------



## Neil_J

thehatedguy said:


> Sorry it's the 360.3, c-dsp, and the ps8 that share the same cirrus logic chip.


Do you know which Cirrus Logic chip they're using? I think the MiniDSP uses a Cirrus Logic chip as well; although it's probably not even in the same league as those three


----------



## oca123

quality_sound said:


> Are you sure your dealer understands how are is doing the shipping? They're staggering the shipments so they all arrive at dealers at about the same time. The September ship date was when they would START shipping. You also gave to remember that it takes longer for the international dealers to get theirs which will affect US delivery dates.


Answered via PM.


----------



## bengl3rt

bertholomey said:


> Anyway, I had the remote controller installed for a short time - I took a couple pictures - not sure why I didn't take one with it lit up. With the right integration, it would look pretty cool.


It looks kind of big and plasticky and cheap. Looked a lot nicer in the renders...


----------



## thehatedguy

I would have to look some more...but the specs should tell you which chip they are using. The PS8 specs page is pretty much straight from the CL data sheet.



Neil_J said:


> Do you know which Cirrus Logic chip they're using? I think the MiniDSP uses a Cirrus Logic chip as well; although it's probably not even in the same league as those three


----------



## thehatedguy

If it does phase then it's not listed anywhere that I have seen...I wish I could find out if it does. Would be cool if it did.

You can derive a center channel in the Helix from the input mixer. Dunno about l-r...but it can do l+r. It's basic compared to the PS8.



quality_sound said:


> I'm pretty sure the ps8 has phase adjustments (not just polarity) and the input mixing of the ps8 is much different that the Helix. It's not just choosing which inputs drive what outputs but you can also independently adjust how much signal from each input channel you're using. Nothing else does that.


----------



## bertholomey

Neil_J said:


> Is there a PDF manual?? I can't find one on the site. Do you know which functions it can and cannot control?? Can you change Eq and T/A settings? or is it just presets and such?


We didn't find one. Master Volume, Sub Volume, % Mute, balance/fade, and presets
That is what we saw when playing with it. 



bengl3rt said:


> It looks kind of big and plasticky and cheap. Looked a lot nicer in the renders...


Big is correct - I thought it would be smaller for some reason. The case is milled Aluminum I believe. My only complaint with the build quality is that the acrylic front piece / board and the case were not tightly put together - too much of a gap.... at least the one I was messing with. BTW, saw a beautiful nsx this past week - will need to watch for your build thread.


----------



## bengl3rt

bertholomey said:


> BTW, saw a beautiful nsx this past week - will need to watch for your build thread.


Cool! I am definitely looking for audio components that match the car in terms of design, fit and finish, and also longevity. Based on your opinion of the remote maybe the 6to8 is not the way to go...

I am looking at processors that can be used standalone without a head unit so a good remote is a must.


----------



## bbfoto

bengl3rt,

Welcome to the forum! Love the NSX, too, and would look forward to your audio build as well. 

Neil, if you are successful with your DIY processor, I don't see how it would not be successful if you decided to sell it to the public, or at least here on the forums, hint hint! 

My pet peeve with current and past processors is similar to yours...first, the software/GUI, and second, the remote control/remote tuning interface. You seem to understand both of these as being sub-par on most units (even @ss-backwards), and it seems you have the knowledge to "fix" or eliminate these shortcomings. I for one would be willing to support or even invest in your development via kickstarter, or otherwise.

I realize however that this would be a lot to take on as an individual regarding hardware production, hardware/software support, customer service, etc., etc. So if you could open-source the hardware, offer schematics, or sell a hardware kit with PCB, but then only offer the software for a fee (with a security key that will only allow one device with option to add more devices at a lower additional cost), I bet there might be a lot of interest. Kind of similar to the Mini-DSP I guess. EDIT: I suppose a hardware kit would not be feasible due to it's complexity.

Anyway, I know that A LOT of people (at least here) would be interested in what you come up with. I'm not implying that you'll become a millionaire overnite or ever with this, but if you are going to spend the time and effort to create this for yourself anyway, you might as well reap some additional rewards by offering it up to people like me and others here.  

Mark, what is the U.S. MSRP for the 6-to-8 controller?


----------



## subwoofery

Sorry for going OT but is it me or did Mosconi released yet another MOFO? 
Zero 4 

Kelvin


----------



## MarioCain

It is nice and having beautiful features in it.Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## oca123

bbfoto said:


> Neil, if you are successful with your DIY processor, I don't see how it would not be successful if you decided to sell it to the public, or at least here on the forums, hint hint!
> 
> My pet peeve with current and past processors is similar to yours...first, the software/GUI, and second, the remote control/remote tuning interface. You seem to understand both of these as being sub-par on most units (even @ss-backwards), and it seems you have the knowledge to "fix" or eliminate these shortcomings. I for one would be willing to support or even invest in your development via kickstarter, or otherwise.
> 
> I realize however that this would be a lot to take on as an individual regarding hardware production, hardware/software support, customer service, etc., etc. So if you could open-source the hardware, offer schematics, or sell a hardware kit with PCB, but then only offer the software for a fee (with a security key that will only allow one device with option to add more devices at a lower additional cost), I bet there might be a lot of interest. Kind of similar to the Mini-DSP I guess. EDIT: I suppose a hardware kit would not be feasible due to it's complexity.
> 
> Anyway, I know that A LOT of people (at least here) would be interested in what you come up with. I'm not implying that you'll become a millionaire overnite or ever with this, but if you are going to spend the time and effort to create this for yourself anyway, you might as well reap some additional rewards by offering it up to people like me and others here.
> 
> Mark, what is the U.S. MSRP for the 6-to-8 controller?


Neil and I PM'ed about that as well. I think Neil has the attitude and intelligence to take this project to fruition, at least on the hardware side, and getting an API together for a GUI. I don't know what his GUI design skills are like, and I doubt he can handle customer service... he wouldn't have the time to respond to everyone, and the patience to deal with idiots.

I might be willing to support this in the same way bbfoto is suggesting.
Additionally, I can help with sourcing components (apart from the ESS chip) - I have a warehouse full of them, and most of it is mil-spec, and also have access to excess inventory from many OEMs we have relationships with, which means cost is 5% to 90% of franchise depending on lead time and qty available.

I would suggest the processor have the ability to handle long FIR filters to do detailed correction in the frequency and time domain. Not sure if there's enough power in there to do it. The software could implement some of the routines that DRC has (check licensing but I believe it's open-source) so users can set up their speaker layout and xovers, choose center channel extraction type, choose how to handle rears, sides, and then use a USB interface+microphone, then draw a frequency response curve on the screen, manually re-adjust delays (e.g. delay rears further for rear fill) if needed, generate FIR filters, and upload to device. 

A lot more can be done, even.

It wouldn't cost very much in terms of hardware to add the ability for the processor to create a Wifi network or connect to an existing one and host a web server to change settings on the fly from any cell phone.

Becoming a millionaire overnight is not going to happen with this, even though there is a remote chance that some company might decide to buy the intellectual property and assets out... or you could license it to them.... I wonder if any of AAMP's companies have a processor in the works....

I say 10 analog inputs + 2 digital inputs and 12 channels of output would be nice...

Your net profit will be $2.31 per unit. That should be enough to keep your cupboard full of top ramen. You could increase that number by selling microphone and USB sound cards with phantom power for the auto tuning feature.... and move up to spaghetti and meatballs!


----------



## Neil_J

Never wanted to sell it outright, or to fully derail this thread  was just going to write some code on my Mac Mini and call it a day. Without further adieu, I'm going to refrain from talking about it here, as it's not the place for it. I'll likely either start a new thread, or just discuss it in my build log.


----------



## rugdnit

subwoofery said:


> Sorry for going OT but is it me or did Mosconi released yet another MOFO?
> Zero 4
> 
> Kelvin


Looks nice.


----------



## bbfoto

Neil_J said:


> Never wanted to sell it outright, or to fully derail this thread  was just going to write some code on my Mac Mini and call it a day. Without further adieu, I'm going to refrain from talking about it here, as it's not the place for it. I'll likely either start a new thread, or just discuss it in my build log.


Copy that. Thanks oca123 as well. Back to the 6-to-8....

So, again, any word on the MSRP and availability of the controller? It seems like there would at least be a Mosconi/Gladen dealer or rep viewing this thread, no?


----------



## Shinju

Any Alpine H800 users switched to this or vice versa? What did or didnt you like or how would would compare the 6tp8 to the H800?


----------



## oca123

bbfoto said:


> Copy that. Thanks oca123 as well. Back to the 6-to-8....
> 
> So, again, any word on the MSRP and availability of the controller? It seems like there would at least be a Mosconi/Gladen dealer or rep viewing this thread, no?


That would be Orca. I know of *a* price for the controller, but I think it's team pricing and not MSRP so I will refrain from posting it here. I will send you a PM with the list of all of the prices I have for the Mosconi 6to8 stuff in a couple minutes. The controller's price is in there.

*EDIT* I called my local dealer and asked for a quote on the 6to8. It came in lower than the "team pricing" I was given by someone else. This is retail, but I do buy stuff from that shop all the time.

In light of this, I think it's OK to post a rough price for the controller. Expect to pay a couple bills for it.


----------



## EricP72

req said:


> im looking at that 8 inch neo front mounted motor speaker on the counter behind the DSP too... i like efficent neo\shallow midbass with frequency response from 60hz~1.2khz


wow i missed that, anybody got a model number?


----------



## quality_sound

Shinju said:


> Any Alpine H800 users switched to this or vice versa? What did or didnt you like or how would would compare the 6tp8 to the H800?


I'll let you know when my 6to8 shows up.


----------



## oca123

When is it showing up?
I'm switching back to carputer for now. With mids in pillars I should be able to get better measurements to allow for phase correction, etc. - more direct sound.


----------



## quality_sound

It went out Thursday so hopefully today but worst case, Monday. 

You're not gonna get any better phase corrections. The adjustments on the current car processors will let you make changes in roughly 1/4" increments. Anything finer than that is really just splitting hairs.


----------



## quality_sound

So I got mine in and it's a LOT smaller than I thought it was. It's in and as wired as it can get until my amp racks are done and it sees power. I have some pics I'll put up when I do my REALLY ugly build log. 

On another note, has anyone had luck tuning with a tablet? I know there's the Android app but from the little information I can find it's not full featured which kind of defeats the point. A Windows tablet should also work since it's, well, Windows. I'd just have to find a way to transfer the software to it which shouldn't be too hard. 

Thanks all.


----------



## bertholomey

Good deal.... 

App: purpose=adjust master volume, sub volume, bal/fade (sort of), and pre-sets. 

Windows tablet=easiest way to put the software on it is to go to the Orca site and dowload, so no problem at all. I need to get a windows tablet as well.


----------



## quality_sound

Exactly what I needed Jason. You da man!


----------



## cobb2819

manish said:


> wow i missed that, anybody got a model number?


c8...would be my guess


----------



## quality_sound

Good god...when did tablets get so expensive??? Guess I'll be using my laptop and a BT dongle for a while since the internal BT doesn't seem to work.


----------



## oca123

I meant, I have my mids mounted more on axis so my measurements should include more direct sound which should result in better phase correction. Another thing I've been wanting to try which no processor does (that I know of) is group delay compensation, which (in layman's terms) tries to make all frequencies from a speaker reach your ears at the same time. I doubt it's audible but I want to try 

I've played with many processors using a windows tablet, and I wouldn't do it any other way. Having a stylus available is nice when there are sliders.
The only Windows tablet I know of is the Samsung Slate, but there might be others?
If you think it's pricey, Paul, take into consideration the fact that it will probably replace whatever laptop you use. With an external bluetooth keyboard and the dock/stand its just like having a laptop, but smaller. It's fast, too... hard to believe. I used to dream of something like this as a kid!

Anyway.... Does anyone have pics of the 6to8 controller in action? I'd like to see some menus, etc.


----------



## quality_sound

You mean the HP Slate 2? I see the Samsung as well. The Series 7 Slate? The Samsung is over $1200 so, uh, hell no? The HP Slatge 2 can be had for under $700 new and for even less on eBay. TBH, I don't even want to spend _that_ much. I don't need a replacement for my laptop. Sure it's almost 4 years old and it needs a new battery but other than that it's fantastic. It would be a _very_ hard sell to get me to spend that much for something I'm only want to tune with. Plus I'd have to try and migrate all of my programs over and I really don't want to even begin to get into that. 

Having said that, I probably will end up getting one after tax returns come back.


----------



## oca123

> Having said that, I probably will end up getting one after tax returns come back.


.... lol. 

mosconi controller pictures, anyone?


----------



## bertholomey

Post 759 above has some lame pics of the controller, but it isn't powered on.

Mosconi-it

Has some shots - there seems to be 2 models shown in the pics on that site.


----------



## BigRed

Looks alot like the bit1 controller


----------



## t3sn4f2

Just throwing this out there. A way to tune with a tablet you have that doesn't support the tuning software (ie ipad), is to run a USB cable from the processor to a networked PC in your home. And they use a VNC server/client software to display and control the software from the tablet. A modern fast PC and tablet combo should have virtually no display lag, and I bet you could even extended the USB cable a good bit with some additional products. Maybe even a wireless USB adapter will works and is more affordable then getting a new tablet to be able to tune from.

Naturally this would only work if you have access to a networked PC nearby.


----------



## quality_sound

My laptop is on my network but my main reason for wanting the tablet is it's smaller and lighter than the laptop so I could take it with me to make changes away from home. No, it won't be as easy as the C800 was but it's a viable solution. At home my laptop is fine. Plus, the tablt would mean I could run TrueRTA and tune at the same time without having to switch screens. I could run a second monitor in the garage and run dual screen though. Hmmmm...

Can you PM me more info on the VNC/client server stuff? If it would be beneficial to all in the thread is fine too. 

Thanks!


----------



## Notloudenuf

quality_sound said:


> My laptop is on my network but my main reason for wanting the tablet is it's smaller and lighter than the laptop so I could take it with me to make changes away from home. No, it won't be as easy as the C800 was but it's a viable solution. At home my laptop is fine. Plus, the tablt would mean I could run TrueRTA and tune at the same time without having to switch screens. I could run a second monitor in the garage and run dual screen though. Hmmmm...
> 
> Can you PM me more info on the VNC/client server stuff? If it would be beneficial to all in the thread is fine too.
> 
> Thanks!


Instead of a tablet you may want to look into netbooks
Almost all are sub $400 and lots are ~$200. 
like Gateway 10.1" Netbook 1GB Memory 320GB Hard Drive LT4009U - Best Buy


----------



## quality_sound

I actually had that thought but I'm not sure what it gains me over my current laptop. It's only a 13" so it's not HUGE but a tablet would be easier. I'll have to look and see if the screen resolution will work. 

Thanks for the link!


----------



## oca123

TightVNC is faster than VNC, but still you will experience quite a bit of lag. If using TightVNC, make sure to install the Mirage driver.
Basically, there is the computer you want to control (the server) - install tightVNC server on that, and install the mirage driver so it's faster.
And then the client (cell phone, tablet, another computer, etc.) - VNC viewer app.

you can then control the server remotely from the client.

TightVNC/VNC is old school, and slow, but it is open source.
There is also Teamviewer (completely free) which packs a lot more features, is much, much faster and is easier to use.
There are other options, but for what you want to do, I recommend Teamviewer. It has an app for Android/iPad.


----------



## BigAl205

I wish the Android app gave you more control other than this


----------



## oca123

Does it really say "Text for label11" at the bottom?
I wonder if anyone who speaks german can read the diy forums where the discussion about the 6to8 is hosted. I wonder if there is an API for the bluetooth stuff. If so, it would be possible to allow much more control over the 6to8, by writing a custom app for it.


----------



## BigAl205

oca123 said:


> Does it really say "Text for label11" at the bottom?
> I wonder if anyone who speaks german can read the diy forums where the discussion about the 6to8 is hosted. I wonder if there is an API for the bluetooth stuff. If so, it would be possible to allow much more control over the 6to8, by writing a custom app for it.


I think the "text for label 11" is just an artifact from capturing the screen image. Do you have a link to the German discussion?


----------



## oca123

I think this is it. Google translate doesnt help much. MindMap - 8Ch AdLib. Audio DSP. • Klangfuzzis.de


----------



## t3sn4f2

oca123 said:


> TightVNC is faster than VNC, but still you will experience quite a bit of lag. If using TightVNC, make sure to install the Mirage driver.
> Basically, there is the computer you want to control (the server) - install tightVNC server on that, and install the mirage driver so it's faster.
> And then the client (cell phone, tablet, another computer, etc.) - VNC viewer app.
> 
> you can then control the server remotely from the client.
> 
> TightVNC/VNC is old school, and slow, but it is open source.
> There is also Teamviewer (completely free) which packs a lot more features, is much, much faster and is easier to use.
> There are other options, but for what you want to do, I recommend Teamviewer. It has an app for Android/iPad.


^Quality, this is basically all you need to know. Its simple to set up and use. Basically sets up itself on the server side with just a few prompts about basic settings and passwords. 

I run RealVNC server and client. Server used to be free but not anymore. Client is $10 for an iDevice and runs with any server I'm sure. 

I just tried it right now on a server trial run and it works beautifully. No lag or stepping what so ever on anything that is not video. Navigating explorer is just like if you were using Safari natively, video speed and all. Excepts its tiny and you have to zoom around of course.

The hardware is a bit on the speedy side, so I'm sure that helps. i5, 4Gb RAM broadcasting to an iPhone5. All over Wifi.


----------



## papasin

t3sn4f2 said:


> ^Quality, this is basically all you need to know. Its simple to set up and use. Basically sets up itself on the server side with just a few prompts about basic settings and passwords.
> 
> I run RealVNC server and client. Server used to be free but not anymore. Client is $10 for an iDevice and runs with any server I'm sure.
> 
> I just tried it right now on a server trial run and it works beautifully. No lag or stepping what so ever on anything that is not video. Navigating explorer is just like if you were using Safari natively, video speed and all. Excepts its tiny and you have to zoom around of course.
> 
> The hardware is a bit on the speedy side, so I'm sure that helps. i5, 4Gb RAM broadcasting to an iPhone5. All over Wifi.


Just as another data point, I run a Remote Desktop Client on an iPad, and enable Remote Desktop on an XP Pro or Win 7 system and that's pretty much all that's needed since RDC is built into Windows.

Nothing against VNC though, as I use that too to control other OS platforms such as Linux and OS X...but for Windows, there's already a built-in "remote desktop" feature that one just needs to switch on.


----------



## oca123

The nice thing about teamviewer is that it's made to be used to get temporary support, and once you close it, it's gone and there is no security concern. 
The other nice thing is... no IPs to remember and he might find a use for it to access a computer from a remote location without having to worry about static IPs, firewall rules, or finding how the machine is running XP home.
Finally, RDC only lets one console at the same time, so it "logs off" the server when you connect from the client, etc. - that could be confusing. That last part I found pretty annoying.

But yes, RDC works, just don't forget to disable it when done.


----------



## Ludemandan

Does the 6to8 have source selection on the remote controller? As in, on my BitOne, I can switch from head unit to Aux to Aux2. The Mosconi website and manual don't list the features, nor could I find it in this thread.


----------



## oca123

I believe it does. I had found the manual somewhere online. You might want to try that.
EDIT: i guess it doesnt, or at least this page: http://www.mosconi-system.it/product/dsp-ctr/ and the downloadable installation manual linked on that page, do not allude to it.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

It can be setup to automatically switch to inputs #7/8 if they detect a signal, but it cannot be controlled manually. At least, I have not found a way to do it with mine.


----------



## cobb2819

With the wired remote I believe it can be controlled manually, but otherwise it's signal sensing.


----------



## strakele

I'm not sure how it works with the digital inputs, but if you have separate sources connected to multiple pairs of inputs (i.e. HU to 1/2, aux to 3/4, etc) you should be able to create a preset in the software and just change the mixer settings to use ch3/4 input for everything, then just swap to that preset with the controller or the Android app to swap inputs. You could copy over all the EQ and stuff so the only thing that changes between presets is the inputs it looks at for source.


----------



## Ludemandan

strakele said:


> I'm not sure how it works with the digital inputs, but if you have separate sources connected to multiple pairs of inputs (i.e. HU to 1/2, aux to 3/4, etc) you should be able to create a preset in the software and just change the mixer settings to use ch3/4 input for everything, then just swap to that preset with the controller or the Android app to swap inputs. You could copy over all the EQ and stuff so the only thing that changes between presets is the inputs it looks at for source.


That makes sense, but therein lies the rub. You don't get selectable inputs and selectable presets, you just get one or the other. I currently use all four presets on my BitOne: Driver, middle, passenger, and driver A/B comparison for changes. And I use two different inputs. I don't think I'd be willing to switch to a unit that sacrifices those features.


----------



## strakele

There's an additional memory module you can get for the 6to8 that gives you more presets.


----------



## DAT

strakele said:


> There's an additional memory module you can get for the 6to8 that gives you more presets.


Thanks didn't know that... :thumbsup:


----------



## cobb2819

Ludemandan said:


> That makes sense, but therein lies the rub. You don't get selectable inputs and selectable presets, you just get one or the other. I currently use all four presets on my BitOne: Driver, middle, passenger, and driver A/B comparison for changes. And I use two different inputs. I don't think I'd be willing to switch to a unit that sacrifices those features.


Each preset has selectable mixer settings. So...preset one can use input 1-2 and turn the rest off. Preset can use 3-4 and turn off the rest.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Ludemandan

cobb2819 said:


> Each preset has selectable mixer settings. So...preset one can use input 1-2 and turn the rest off. Preset can use 3-4 and turn off the rest.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I see how that works. With my Audison I can use any input with any preset. There are some things I hate about my Audison which is why I'm curious about the Mosconi, but this seems like a basic usability feature that was forgotten about.


----------



## invinsible

We been facing issues with Mosconi DSP 6to8. First one had issue with boot failure. This was replaced and we got the replacement. The setup was completed running 2 way active front, rear speakers and sub. Unfortunately it went into system failure. The Status LED now stays on during the process. Hence we getting no output signal. As per the manual we need to get firmware updated. 
What is the solution on this? Has anyone faced any similar issues?


----------



## t3sn4f2

invinsible said:


> We been facing issues with Mosconi DSP 6to8. First one had issue with boot failure. This was replaced and we got the replacement. The setup was completed running 2 way active front, rear speakers and sub. Unfortunately it went into system failure. The Status LED now stays on during the process. Hence we getting no output signal. As per the manual we need to get firmware updated.
> What is the solution on this? Has anyone faced any similar issues?


This might not have nothing to do with the problem and yet it could be the cause but yesterday I have my PC give me the "blue screen of death" after trying to plug in my ipod. Nothing would fix it not even a restore from safe mode. I decide that on top of unplugging the ipod (which didn't help) I'd remove the USB extension cable that I'd been using with it. Problem solved, PC's back to normal. 

Something to think about and try when a computer (ie car audio processor) goes haywire. Especially if the same problem occurs with another processor. Should only happen with interconnects that carry data.


----------



## invinsible

t3sn4f2 said:


> This might not have nothing to do with the problem and yet it could be the cause but yesterday I have my PC give me the "blue screen of death" after trying to plug in my ipod. Nothing would fix it not even a restore from safe mode. I decide that on top of unplugging the ipod (which didn't help) I'd remove the USB extension cable that I'd been using with it. Problem solved, PC's back to normal.
> 
> Something to think about and try when a computer (ie car audio processor) goes haywire. Especially if the same problem occurs with another processor. Should only happen with interconnects that carry data.


We kinda tried that before. We even disconnected the power ground n remote plug of the processor for more than half hour. Its unusual problem, on connecting the plug there is 3 times beep noise coming from the speakers even when head unit is off. Along with that during startup the ST light blinks for more than 20 times and than stays on during operation. 
We checked the remote wire and its all good. I am guessing the processor is malfunctioning. 
Sone other problem we faced such sticky EQ button, application gets hanged and restarts, during operation on EQ connection would just break.
For the info its running on 1.2V firmware and the app is 1.92


----------



## cobb2819

Why don't you upgrade your firmware?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## tonny

You should try a different usb cable to connect sometimes there can be some troubles 
with. 
Otherwise check your dealer for any update's or let them check the dsp.


----------



## invinsible

tonny said:


> You should try a different usb cable to connect sometimes there can be some troubles
> with.
> Otherwise check your dealer for any update's or let them check the dsp.


Will try out with that. But the USB cable its connecting to the DSP Application. I am able to Load and change preset. Just that status LED stays on even after that. 


cobb2819 said:


> Why don't you upgrade your firmware?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The firmware update is not available with the Mosconi India Distributor.


----------



## simplicityinsound

Now that i am currently working on my i think 12th or 13th 6to8 install, i will give sort of a small summary input on here.

I cant say these are factual info, but just my personal opinion, for factual info i am sure guys like cobb or nick can do better 


1. out of the 12-13 units, i have suffered one single failure. that was a unit that after a day or two, refused to pass signal out of it anymore. not sure if it was software or hardware, but it was replaced and works now.

2. glitch wise, its been getting a lot better, the first units has some funky software things, but the last 5 or 6, on the latest software and firmware, have been almost trouble free. the biggest glitch before for me personally, was the big error screen after it loads initially, and then disconnects itself. then you have to load settings from console to dsp, which erases all the memory settings. 

3. a good habit to get into, and i have been doing this for as long as i have used ANY computer controlled DSPS, is SAVE TO FILE every minute or two while tuning. Anyone who has tuned with me knows i do this all the time...on the 6to8, this takes 10 seconds, so i just always click over and save to the file, over and over again.

4. so far on all 13 cars that i have used this piece on, i have zero noise issues, zero reliability issues. And this isnt me just talking, you can actually verify it with my customers. if i had issues with this unit, i would be the first to know about it from my customer base. And if i have too much issues with a unit, i would stop using it becuase i simply dont have the time or space to deal with people coming back to take stuff out for replacement. some of the earlier models have been in for over 9-10 months now.

5. it maybe just me, but i feel that on the latest firmware, 1.4, the hard mute when clipping feature got tuned down a bit, that i can turn the gain up a lot more and perhaps go into some soft clippng and the unit will still stay on. again, this is NOT A SCIENTIFIC STATEMENT,  it was just that on the 1.4 units, on the same headunit as before playing pink noise, i can turn the input gain knob a lot higher before the unit mutes. so just a hunch.

6. the unit's main pros are so far: small size, low noise floor (adding nothing extra to the signal from my experience), BT connectivity (i use it to tune almost exclusively), a HUGE amount of tuning ability, more so than any other processor i have used, the plug ins allowing expansion such as 8 presets, optical (i havent used it yet).

7. the units main downsides for me: software can still be refined a bit more, the xover settings could be better managed and may confuse some people (such as in order to achieve 24 db LR you need to stack 2x 12db butterworth...etc), could use a more attractive solution to the BT chip if you plan to display the unit. the screw holes are placed in a way that makes them tough to screw down, the remote turn on button and settings are still confusing as to what they do...especially when putting in high level input from a factory source. i think i have figured it out but i wish it was simply an ON/OFF switch, OFF means the unit needs to see remote turn on signal, On.means it will auto turn on.

7. but ultimately for me, the complaints are far more pedestrian than the upside. what i care most about in a processor are: tuning ability, noise floor, reliability. and to me, out of all the processors i have used, the 6to8 ranks pretty darn high 

8. what i do like is that i AM seeing constant improvements, with each firmware and software update, i am noticing real world changes...and to me, that speaks volumes about a companies willingness to solve issues and improve.

i was not paid in anyway by Mosconi for this  just my honest opinion


----------



## simplicityinsound

invinsible said:


> Will try out with that. But the USB cable its connecting to the DSP Application. I am able to Load and change preset. Just that status LED stays on even after that.
> 
> 
> The firmware update is not available with the Mosconi India Distributor.



which firmware is this you are on right now?


----------



## DAT

simplicityinsound said:


> Now that i am currently working on my i think 12th or 13th 6to8 install, i will give sort of a small summary input on here.
> 
> I cant say these are factual info, but just my personal opinion, for factual info i am sure guys like cobb or nick can do better
> 
> 
> 1. out of the 12-13 units, i have suffered one single failure. that was a unit that after a day or two, refused to pass signal out of it anymore. not sure if it was software or hardware, but it was replaced and works now.
> 
> 2. glitch wise, its been getting a lot better, the first units has some funky software things, but the last 5 or 6, on the latest software and firmware, have been almost trouble free. the biggest glitch before for me personally, was the big error screen after it loads initially, and then disconnects itself. then you have to load settings from console to dsp, which erases all the memory settings.
> 
> 3. a good habit to get into, and i have been doing this for as long as i have used ANY computer controlled DSPS, is SAVE TO FILE every minute or two while tuning. Anyone who has tuned with me knows i do this all the time...on the 6to8, this takes 10 seconds, so i just always click over and save to the file, over and over again.
> 
> 4. so far on all 13 cars that i have used this piece on, i have zero noise issues, zero reliability issues. And this isnt me just talking, you can actually verify it with my customers. if i had issues with this unit, i would be the first to know about it from my customer base. And if i have too much issues with a unit, i would stop using it becuase i simply dont have the time or space to deal with people coming back to take stuff out for replacement.
> 
> 5. it maybe just me, but i feel that on the latest firmware, 1.4, the hard mute when clipping feature got tuned down a bit, that i can turn the gain up a lot more and perhaps go into some soft clippng and the unit will still stay on. again, this is NOT A SCIENTIFIC STATEMENT,  it was just that on the 1.4 units, on the same headunit as before playing pink noise, i can turn the input gain knob a lot higher before the unit mutes. so just a hunch.
> 
> 6. the unit's main pros are so far: small size, low noise floor (adding nothing extra to the signal from my experience), BT connectivity (i use it to tune almost exclusively), a HUGE amount of tuning ability, more so than any other processor i have used, the plug ins allowing expansion such as 8 presets, optical (i havent used it yet).
> 
> 7. the units main downsides for me: software can still be refined a bit more, the xover settings could be better managed and may confuse some people (such as in order to achieve 24 db LR you need to stack 2x 12db butterworth...etc), could use a more attractive solution to the BT chip if you plan to display the unit. the screw holes are placed in a way that makes them tough to screw down, the remote turn on button and settings are still confusing as to what they do...especially when putting in high level input from a factory source. i think i have figured it out but i wish it was simply an ON/OFF switch, OFF means the unit needs to see remote turn on signal, On.means it will auto turn on.
> 
> 7. but ultimately for me, the complaints are far more pedestrian than the upside. what i care most about in a processor are: tuning ability, noise floor, reliability. and to me, out of all the processors i have used, the 6to8 ranks pretty darn high
> 
> 8. what i do like is that i AM seeing constant improvements, with each firmware and software update, i am noticing real world changes...and to me, that speaks volumes about a companies willingness to solve issues and improve.
> 
> i was not paid in anyway by Mosconi for this  just my honest opinion




WHat he said ^ , great DSP and fun to use.


----------



## quality_sound

The only real issue I have is that after a certain time frame it'll drop the BT connection without any notice so you keep tuning and then notice that it says "not connected" at the bottom. Although, sometimes the changes you make will still get passed to the 6to8. I have not had this problem with it hardwired and it's not big enough of a problem for me to worry about. 

I agree with Bing on everything he posted. The GUI needs work but the unit itself works fine and sounds great.


----------



## simplicityinsound

quality_sound said:


> The only real issue I have is that after a certain time frame it'll drop the BT connection without any notice so you keep tuning and then notice that it says "not connected" at the bottom. Although, sometimes the changes you make will still get passed to the 6to8. I have not had this problem with it hardwired and it's not big enough of a problem for me to worry about.
> 
> I agree with Bing on everything he posted. The GUI needs work but the unit itself works fine and sounds great.


oh yeah forgot that issue. it does happen...hence my knack at save to file every minute or so, once that becomes a habit, the BT drop becomes a minor inconvinience versus a DOH! moment


----------



## quality_sound

I'm the same way. lol It just sucks waiting for all the presets and everything to reload. Not a huge deal. If nothing else, it gives me time to take a break and pee.


----------



## Mic10is

quality_sound said:


> I'm the same way. lol It just sucks waiting for all the presets and everything to reload. Not a huge deal. If nothing else, it gives me time to take a break and pee.


...and make a cup of coffee, run to the store to shop for the weeks groceries, reroof a house.....amazing what you can get done waiting for the presets to load


----------



## quality_sound

I wouldn't go THAT far but it died take longer than it should. I'd say it's about 60 seconds.


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> 7. the units main downsides for me: software can still be refined a bit more, the xover settings could be better managed and may confuse some people (such as in order to achieve 24 db LR you need to stack 2x 12db butterworth...etc), could use a more attractive solution to the BT chip if you plan to display the unit. the screw holes are placed in a way that makes them tough to screw down, the remote turn on button and settings are still confusing as to what they do...especially when putting in high level input from a factory source. i think i have figured it out but i wish it was simply an ON/OFF switch, OFF means the unit needs to see remote turn on signal, On.means it will auto turn on.





quality_sound said:


> The only real issue I have is that after a certain time frame it'll drop the BT connection without any notice so you keep tuning and then notice that it says "not connected" at the bottom. Although, sometimes the changes you make will still get passed to the 6to8. I have not had this problem with it hardwired and it's not big enough of a problem for me to worry about.
> 
> I agree with Bing on everything he posted. The GUI needs work but the unit itself works fine and sounds great.


I agree with all of the assessments of this processor mentioned above. For me, I could only connect to my laptop with the bluetooth. I never was able to get the usb to work on it but it was mentioned that it could be my old assed computer's usb drivers being out of date. The laptop is so old they don't even list drivers for it on Toshiba's website any longer:laugh: I guess I really do need a new laptop - no money for that and it seems to be working alright with the Bluetooth. I do hate how it drops the bluetooth and takes some time to ask for a reconnect as mentioned. I do hate that it takes so long to connect especially when you don't have the capacity to hold all 4 presets in the device (like mine currently). As stated, the pluses far outweigh the negatives for me too.

Bing, you have me thinking now about my crossovers. I hadn't thought that going with 2 12 db BW filters was giving me a LR 24 db filter. I do seem to remember reading that cascading 2 BW 2nd order filters did result in a LR 4th order. I wanted to make sure I have that right in my head now. So, is there any way to actually get a BW 24 db filter with this device then? What am I getting when I run 2 LR 12 db filters then too? Sorry if this is kind of a noob question.


----------



## simplicityinsound

james2266 said:


> I agree with all of the assessments of this processor mentioned above. For me, I could only connect to my laptop with the bluetooth. I never was able to get the usb to work on it but it was mentioned that it could be my old assed computer's usb drivers being out of date. The laptop is so old they don't even list drivers for it on Toshiba's website any longer:laugh: I guess I really do need a new laptop - no money for that and it seems to be working alright with the Bluetooth. I do hate how it drops the bluetooth and takes some time to ask for a reconnect as mentioned. I do hate that it takes so long to connect especially when you don't have the capacity to hold all 4 presets in the device (like mine currently). As stated, the pluses far outweigh the negatives for me too.
> 
> Bing, you have me thinking now about my crossovers. I hadn't thought that going with 2 12 db BW filters was giving me a LR 24 db filter. I do seem to remember reading that cascading 2 BW 2nd order filters did result in a LR 4th order. I wanted to make sure I have that right in my head now. So, is there any way to actually get a BW 24 db filter with this device then? What am I getting when I run 2 LR 12 db filters then too? Sorry if this is kind of a noob question.


i wouldnt say its your old computer but perhaps a hardware or software issue. my computer that i use to tune all the cars, is 15 years old lol, it wont run anything except the basic tuning programs, i used it on the bitones, the zapcos, the alpine f1s, and the mosconis, never had an issue. but i do know people with much newer computers having issues with the zapco and the mosconi so who knows 

how to get a 24db BW filter, that is a good question that i am not sure how to answer...4 x 6db BW filters stacked?


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> i wouldnt say its your old computer but perhaps a hardware or software issue. my computer that i use to tune all the cars, is 15 years old lol, it wont run anything except the basic tuning programs, i used it on the bitones, the zapcos, the alpine f1s, and the mosconis, never had an issue. but i do know people with much newer computers having issues with the zapco and the mosconi so who knows
> 
> how to get a 24db BW filter, that is a good question that i am not sure how to answer...4 x 6db BW filters stacked?


Thanks Bing. I might look into updating my drivers a little deeper. They have to be available somewhere I would think. The Bluetooth is so convenient however (that is when it is not dropping the connection occasionally).

Stacking 4 x 6db BW would not be possible as I need a bandpass and a 12 db to help make the gigantic peak at 250 more eq-able. I was just curious. I wonder if cascading 2 LR 12 db would result in the same as using 2 12 db BW Don't really matter I guess as it does sound pretty damned good as it is. If I can just get a speaker that produces at 60 Hz and doesn't explode at 250 Hz but that is another discussion


----------



## Mic10is

EAW: Application Support Group
What is the difference between Bessel, Butterworth, and Linkwitz-Riley crossovers?
These are the names given to three different types or topologies of filters. They are most often applied in crossover networks. Each one has different characteristics, but there is no definitive answer as to which is the best to use. The choice of which one to use depends entirely on the filter characteristics of the transducer. It is entirely possible to have a crossover between two transducers where the LPF for the lower frequency transducer and the HPF for the higher frequency transducer each have different topologies, slopes, and cutoff frequencies.

As filters, the Butterworth is considered the "gentlest", The Bessell has the most interesting phase shifts and the Linkwitz-Riley the sharpest cut-off. Because there are phase issues associated with all filters, it is hard to describe the differences apart from specific applications.

http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/filter-crossover-types-for-loudspeakers


----------



## simplicityinsound

the last scion i did had all tschebyscheff filters


----------



## invinsible

simplicityinsound said:


> which firmware is this you are on right now?


Finally we have managed to get the firmware,we were using the 1.2 and now upgraded to v1.4.

The processor is now working perfectly and its absolutely normal and clean.Thanks to the Technical support Gladen Mosconi,Germany and the local Distributor,India.

We are still facing a small glitch of sticky EQ buttons and at times the level gains goes down to -20dB but still we can hear subwoofer playing loud on the software platform.I am guessing the time alignment feature have been upgraded and improved in v1.4.


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> the last scion i did had all tschebyscheff filters


Really? And it sounded great still? I am always afraid of clipping my amps if I use that filter type. Is that of no concern or do you choose your filter type before setting the gains on the amps? Also, is it advisable to always keep consistent with your filter types with all drivers or is it fine to mix and match? The one vehicle I had completely set up by the local sq shop, it came back with all the same filter type on all drivers and the same slopes to boot so it always has made me wonder if that was some kind of unwritten rule.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

James226, in my experience in tuning cars the vehicle usually determines the crossover slopes and types used. I have used -6db Bessel on mids and LR -24 db on the tweeters and -12 db Butterworth on the bass drivers in a three way all active setup. Hell, I have gone so far as to have on midrange on the left side of the car use a -12 db LR and on the right side the midrange had a -18 db Butterworth. The key is when you start to build crossover networks you need to have both sides of the car match at your crossover points! Does not matter whether or not the types of crossovers you use it matters that the overall response of both sides of the car match! I always try and have the response curve of each driver in the car match ( or as close as possible), without any EQ. This allows me to have less problems to solve when it comes time to determine relative polarity, channel delay and EQ. 

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Focal America/Mosconi America/Illusion Audio America


----------



## james2266

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> James226, in my experience in tuning cars the vehicle usually determines the crossover slopes and types used. I have used -6db Bessel on mids and LR -24 db on the tweeters and -12 db Butterworth on the bass drivers in a three way all active setup. Hell, I have gone so far as to have on midrange on the left side of the car use a -12 db LR and on the right side the midrange had a -18 db Butterworth. The key is when you start to build crossover networks you need to have both sides of the car match at your crossover points! Does not matter whether or not the types of crossovers you use it matters that the overall response of both sides of the car match! I always try and have the response curve of each driver in the car match ( or as close as possible), without any EQ. This allows me to have less problems to solve when it comes time to determine relative polarity, channel delay and EQ.
> 
> Nick Wingate
> National Training Coordinator
> Focal America/Mosconi America/Illusion Audio America


Thanks for that and makes perfect sense. I have always worried about phasing issues coming up. Then again I'm not sure what that would sound like exactly anyways or if it would even be noticeable. I might just give that a try this afternoon. I think different left and right crosses on the midbass is something that could really help. If I remember the pass. side has a lot more output than the drivers from about 150-250 or so or maybe it was the other way around.


----------



## quality_sound

That's how mine was. More midbass on the left side but more midrange on the right.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Chances are that the frequencies you are listening to that seem louder are due to the on axis vs. off axis response of the drivers as it relates to your listening position. Place your RTA mic in front of each driver in an extreme near field position and see if each driver is creating the same type of frequency response. That should tell you what on axis is like. Then do the same for each driver off axis and compare the two. Bet you learn a lot about what your interior of the car is doing to your frequency response. 

Nick


----------



## james2266

That does seem to make sense. I think I have a new problem that might be partially causing some of the issues. I played with the crossovers on the midbass and played with the eq a little and had a very similar type response left to right. Once all of that was done, I was listening to some music to test things out and noticed my driver's midbass would cut out everytime I cranked up the volume. I'd lower it down a bit and it would start playing again. I have had a feeling that there might be some problems with that driver for a while now. They are old and I am going to replace them but now I guess I might have to do something a little sooner than I anticipated. If I have some time, I will have to check all the connections and make sure it isn't something simple causing this.


----------



## quality_sound

Mitsu1grn said:


> Chances are that the frequencies you are listening to that seem louder are due to the on axis vs. off axis response of the drivers as it relates to your listening position. Place your RTA mic in front of each driver in an extreme near field position and see if each driver is creating the same type of frequency response. That should tell you what on axis is like. Then do the same for each driver off axis and compare the two. Bet you learn a lot about what your interior of the car is doing to your frequency response.
> 
> Nick


Oh it's definitely the change in axis. I also think it's not necessarily that there's more midbass on the left just that the midrange is rolled off because I'm so off axis. It would be nice if I could find the freq response charts for them but Quart and German Maestro don't have them.


----------



## Raysclim

Hello all ,

Does anyone knows what is the latest firmware version of DSP6to8 processor now ? Hopefully , latest firmware recify all the faults that was mentioned in this thread . 

I am torn between audison bit 10 and dsp 6to8 for my setup . 
Btw, my setup is per below running on a 2 way active 

Speaker : Gladen Aerospace 165.2
Amp : mosconi zero 4
Sub : audio system HX12 phase 
Amp: mosconi AS200.2 bridge mode 

Headunit : stock peugeot 407 
Processor : dsp6to8 / audison bit 10D 

iPod classic ---HRT Istreamer 12V ---RCA (Aux) into processor

Thanks 
Raymond


----------



## Rob M

Mic10is said:


> As filters, the Butterworth is considered the "gentlest", The Bessell has the most interesting phase shifts and the Linkwitz-Riley the sharpest cut-off. Because there are phase issues associated with all filters, it is hard to describe the differences apart from specific applications.


I'm kind of surprised at EAW here. Bessel filters have a gentle slope because they're optimized for the best phase response and not the flattest amplitude response. Butterworth filters are known as "maximally flat" because they have the flattest possible frequency response right up to the cutoff frequency. Linkwitz-Riley filters are two cascaded Butterworth filters.

Of course, in reality, none of this really matters because the speakers have their own responses in the crossover regions, and the acoustical response (the combination of the driver's response and the crossover response) is what we care about. In cars, I prefer steep responses, and 24 dB/oct is steep enough for about anything. The filter shape only matters to make a nice flat frequency response when compared to the driver you're crossing over to.


----------



## tonny

Raysclim said:


> Hello all ,
> 
> Does anyone knows what is the latest firmware version of DSP6to8 processor now ? Hopefully , latest firmware recify all the faults that was mentioned in this thread .
> 
> I am torn between audison bit 10 and dsp 6to8 for my setup .
> Btw, my setup is per below running on a 2 way active
> 
> Speaker : Gladen Aerospace 165.2
> Amp : mosconi zero 4
> Sub : audio system HX12 phase
> Amp: mosconi AS200.2 bridge mode
> 
> Headunit : stock peugeot 407
> Processor : dsp6to8 / audison bit 10D
> 
> iPod classic ---HRT Istreamer 12V ---RCA (Aux) into processor
> 
> Thanks
> Raymond


I've got one dsp with the latest software firmware update and it is working 
perfect! I've not had any problems yet, but I've only got one tuning session 
yet with it, for the rest it's working perfect! 
I would absolutely go for the 6to8 in my opinion its way better sounding
then the audison!


----------



## quality_sound

I'm pretty sure 1.4 is the latest version.


----------



## papasin

Mine has the 1.4 firmware, running v1.0.0.91 of the software on Windows 7 x64 talking over bluetooth. So far so good.


----------



## Masterolli

hi,
i have paired today the 6to8 with my Galaxy S3 for audio streaming.
The result was worse.

Normally the Carpc is wired with an optical cable and that sounds great, but over BT there was something strange Noise in the Songs.
Like something was bad compressed dont know how to explain.

Speakers and Amps are not bad, 3 Way Andrian Audio and 4 Zapco Studio AMPs old Generation :bowdown: 

Maybe someone has tried Audio Streaming and can tell me his results.

thanks olli


----------



## cobb2819

Masterolli said:


> hi,
> i have paired today the 6to8 with my Galaxy S3 for audio streaming.
> The result was worse.
> 
> Normally the Carpc is wired with an optical cable and that sounds great, but over BT there was something strange Noise in the Songs.
> Like something was bad compressed dont know how to explain.
> 
> Speakers and Amps are not bad, 3 Way Andrian Audio and 4 Zapco Studio AMPs old Generation :bowdown:
> 
> Maybe someone has tried Audio Streaming and can tell me his results.
> 
> thanks olli


How are you pairing the Bluetooth for streaming? Through the pc or through the Mosconi 6to8 Bluetooth streaming interface?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## BigSound209

Hello, the Bluetooth dongle is not meant to stream audio into the 6to8. Mosconi makes an audiophile grade streaming adapter that just made it into the US. I will be brought up to speed in my training on Monday and pricing will be announced soon as well. So hold on, a SQ solution is almost here.

Scott


----------



## cobb2819

BigSound209 said:


> Hello, the Bluetooth dongle is not meant to stream audio into the 6to8. Mosconi makes an audiophile grade streaming adapter that just made it into the US. I will be brought up to speed in my training on Monday and pricing will be announced soon as well. So hold on, a SQ solution is almost here.
> 
> Scott


I got to use it on Thursday and Friday.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## tintbox

I'm trying to download the latest firmware from GLADEN DSP 6to8 . It's coming up with an error. Anybody have any insight on this?


----------



## strakele

Looks like they just messed up the link. Try this:

GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## tintbox

Thank you.


----------



## rgiorgio

We just did one last week. Froze up the unit and had to be changed out. New one going in today or tomorrow.


----------



## tintbox

So 1.2 is the most recent software?


----------



## james2266

tintbox said:


> So 1.2 is the most recent software?


Maybe stupid question but how does one tell what version software they are running? Also, what was changed with this newest version? Trying to decide if it is worth it to upgrade mine for fear of bricking it like the guy earlier in this thread.


----------



## quality_sound

tintbox said:


> So 1.2 is the most recent software?


I'll have to look but I want to say mine is on 1.4.


----------



## quality_sound

james2266 said:


> Maybe stupid question but how does one tell what version software they are running? Also, what was changed with this newest version? Trying to decide if it is worth it to upgrade mine for fear of bricking it like the guy earlier in this thread.


Lower left corner of the interface on your computer after you connect.


----------



## papasin

I think there was confusion on this earlier in the thread, so hopefully this helps. There are two numbers, the firmware for the hardware and the version number of the software. So for example, I have and am running:

Firmware version 1.44 on my 6to8 hardware (there is a sticker on the bottom of the unit)

and running v1.0.0.91 of the software downloaded from this link.


----------



## rgiorgio

We received ours with 1.2 on it and did the upgrade to 1.4. The upgrade bricked it. Havent seen what the new one has on it yet


----------



## quality_sound

I need to look and see what my firmware is. Is that upgradeable?


----------



## jtaudioacc

here's the new controller...i think. it was on display at ces. much nicer than the first one. also, the bluetooth streaming worked real nice.


----------



## papasin

jtaudioacc said:


> here's the new controller...i think. it was on display at ces. much nicer than the first one. also, the bluetooth streaming worked real nice.


Wonder if you can actually adjust EQ, etc. with it.


----------



## Raysclim

Thanks for the link, I have trouble to install the software from the supplied setup disc for days. The link that you provided works! I Can finally start tuning on my dsp6to8 tomorrow. My processor is also having firmware 1.44
looking forward for the result. 
Cheers. 
RAYMOND 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DAT

I like the new Controller, I got the older controller I have never used yet.


----------



## Raysclim

Are the new controller available for sales already? Where? 
For Bluetooth steaming. Need to buy the Bluetooth adapter to fit into processor right? 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DAT

Raysclim said:


> Are the new controller available for sales already? Where?
> For Bluetooth steaming. Need to buy the Bluetooth adapter to fit into processor right?
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


Yes you need the BT piece


----------



## Mic10is

papasin said:


> Wonder if you can actually adjust EQ, etc. with it.


I was told that the controller really doesnt do anything more than you can do with the android app.
I had asked about getting the controller when I ordered mine and that was the response I got from Orca


----------



## [email protected]

So its only Android app that can control it? No Iphone app?


----------



## Mic10is

BeatsDownLow said:


> So its only Android app that can control it? No Iphone app?


you will not find many if any processors or products that allow Iphone to control it. Apple has very strict and EXPENSIVE licensing agreements which would add substantial cost to products


----------



## papasin

Mic10is said:


> I was told that the controller really doesnt do anything more than you can do with the android app.
> I had asked about getting the controller when I ordered mine and that was the response I got from Orca


So other than cosmetics, what are the differences (if any) between the old controller and the new controller?


----------



## quality_sound

Nothing.


----------



## DAT

Don't quote me but I was told the old controller would not work it you have the BT module installed.

:shocked2:


----------



## papasin

DAT said:


> Don't quote me but I was told the old controller would not work it you have the BT module installed.
> 
> :shocked2:


If you give me yours I can hook it up to my 6to8 with BT and test out that theory lol .

But if the controller is pretty much the same than the Android interface, then I'd rather use my Nexus 7 . But as was said before, what would be killer would be full tuning capabilities from a tablet .


----------



## james2266

papasin said:


> If you give me yours I can hook it up to my 6to8 with BT and test out that theory lol .
> 
> But if the controller is pretty much the same than the Android interface, then I'd rather use my Nexus 7 . But as was said before, what would be killer would be full tuning capabilities from a tablet .


Or even better a smart phone. It would be killer tho as you said and it would force me to run out and get an Android tablet.


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

The controller for the 6 to 8 allows the user to control or change the following: 

Volume adjust
Presets 1-4
Bass
Treble
Balance
Fade

That's basically it. What the android app does is the same thing the controller does. That's it. 

For those of you who are wanting Bluetooth audio streaming, it is going to be available quickly. Now then, the Bluetooth Dongle that many of you have now is not designed for Bluetooth Audio streaming. There is a separate piece that must be purchased. In addition to that antenna, you must also have the digital input/output card in your processor. It has the Bluetooth Audio input on that card. 

When you have the Bluetooth Antenna attached, you will be able to listen to all of your files on any device that has Bluetooth streaming available. This includes being able to stream 24/96 files via Bluetooth. The DSP will accept those files as high res files and you can hear the difference. I was playing high res files over my IPad at CES over the Bluetooth input and it worked! Very impressed by the sound! Now then, if you do decide to purchase this when it comes available you do need to know that if you have the 6 to 8 in your trunk you will need to locate the antenna inside the car. 

In addition to the 6 to 8, a newer unit called the 4 to 6 will be available very soon. It has many of the same capabilities as the 6 to 8 just not as many outputs or options. This will be a less expensive unit, but I don't have pricing as of today. When I do I will let everyone on this site know. 

Thanks!!

Nick Wingate
National Training Coordinator
Orca Design and Mfg.


----------



## Raysclim

Assuming that I will be using the high level input from my stock head unit. 
Is there any RCA input for aux at the processor? I was planning to use one pair of RCA for my iPod input. 
If there is, How Can I select the mode to play the iPod songs from controller? 

Thanks 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

As the 6 to 8 has several ways to input signal, it could be possible to use one set of the RCA inputs as low level in and the other two as high level in. Don't see why it couldn't work.

Nick


----------



## cobb2819

DAT said:


> Don't quote me but I was told the old controller would not work it you have the BT module installed.
> 
> :shocked2:


No problems.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

Raysclim said:


> Assuming that I will be using the high level input from my stock head unit.
> Is there any RCA input for aux at the processor? I was planning to use one pair of RCA for my iPod input.
> If there is, How Can I select the mode to play the iPod songs from controller?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


You can use the 5/6 input as aux input that is automatically selected when it sees voltage. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

Nick, thanks for the info regarding the new Digital I/O card with BT audio streaming.

Do you know if it will support/be compatible with the APT-X Bluetooth audio streaming protocol?

Also, when using the Android app for basic control of the 6-to8, will that same device also be able to stream audio over BT at the same time?...

Will it allow multiple concurrent BT connections? For instance, when BT-pairing a single Android smartphone to a typical Head Unit that supports both handsfree calling and audio streaming, you can choose whether or not you want to allow either BT Phone (calling) functionality or "media device" (audio streaming), or both, from the same device.

If the BT "receiver" (in this case the 6-to-8) supports multiple concurrent BT connections via two separate devices, you could use one device to stream audio from, and another to "control" the 6-to-8's basic functions. Is this possible?


----------



## bbfoto

james2266 said:


> Or even better a smart phone. It would be killer tho as you said and it would force me to run out and get an Android tablet.


Yeah. The Nexus 7 tablet starts at $200. How much will the Mosconi controller be?

Is the Android app optimized for a Smartphone screen, or a 7" or 10" Tablet screen? Or all of them?


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

If you have the BT dongle that allows wireless connectivity to control the program and you have the BT streaming antenna attached then you can do both. We did it at CES. No problem. As to whether you can stream BT and answer a phone call I am not sure. That is something that we did not think to ask Henning at CES. Ill ask and see and try and get back to you ASAP. 

Nick


----------



## simplicityinsound

the biggest difference between the controller and and the android app is the ease of operation with a rotary knob.

this is most relevant when you want to use the controller as a master volume control.

if you are simply wanting to do quick pre-set changes, and have an android phone, then app is by far the way to go.

if you have an oem source thats been flattened by the 6to8, then you want to maintain that, the controller is obviously the way to go 

b


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> the biggest difference between the controller and and the android app is the ease of operation with a rotary knob.
> 
> this is most relevant when you want to use the controller as a master volume control.
> 
> if you are simply wanting to do quick pre-set changes, and have an android phone, then app is by far the way to go.
> 
> if you have an oem source thats been flattened by the 6to8, then you want to maintain that, the controller is obviously the way to go
> 
> b


My thoughts exactly. BTW, I've been meaning to ask. Does anyone have a price on the memory expansion that allows the unit to hold 4 presets? Also, does someone mind shipping to Canada?


----------



## BigRed

Nick,

How are u getting 24/96 from Bluetooth? Even using A2DP technology won't do that. Please explain in detail. Thanks


----------



## simplicityinsound

james2266 said:


> My thoughts exactly. BTW, I've been meaning to ask. Does anyone have a price on the memory expansion that allows the unit to hold 4 presets? Also, does someone mind shipping to Canada?


you mean 4 MORE persets? making it 8? 

i dont have a price on it, but call in orca and see what they tell ya.

b


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> you mean 4 MORE persets? making it 8?
> 
> i dont have a price on it, but call in orca and see what they tell ya.
> 
> b


No. I mean to get 4 presets from the one I currently have. I was told there was a memory stick or something like that was needed to properly save your 4 presets. Currently, if I recall, it will only save basic crossover settings if that even. It's been a while since I even attempted to use the other 3 presets in the software. I know for sure it doesn't keep any eq settings on the other presets. I will give my local dealer a call and pray that it is available here. Every time I ask about something it seems that it isn't available here yet


----------



## Raysclim

I Just completed setup my system Today using dsp6to8, fw1.44.
I have used Alpine h800,Rockford 360.2,audison bit one previously. So far both my installer and myself agreed that dsp6to8 sound amazing!! 
I also connect a iPod classic using hrt istreamer to dsp6to8 ch5&6 via RCA. 
It works in a way that if you play your iPod with enough volume to have higher voltage. The processor detected it and switch it to iPod source over other source. 
However. You will need to have different crossover setting.. etc for the iPod source. So far. This works Good for me.

Attached are the some photo of my setup.





























Just to share 
I will need to re tune the system after couple of weeks running in.

Cheers 
RAYMOND 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mic10is

james2266 said:


> No. I mean to get 4 presets from the one I currently have. I was told there was a memory stick or something like that was needed to properly save your 4 presets. Currently, if I recall, it will only save basic crossover settings if that even. It's been a while since I even attempted to use the other 3 presets in the software. I know for sure it doesn't keep any eq settings on the other presets. I will give my local dealer a call and pray that it is available here. Every time I ask about something it seems that it isn't available here yet


it holds 4 presets. I just did it last night to compare different tunes I been working on. changed to each one via Android app


----------



## n_olympios

Raymond, is that a Peugeot 407?


----------



## james2266

Mic10is said:


> it holds 4 presets. I just did it last night to compare different tunes I been working on. changed to each one via Android app


I will have to try it once again then and report back. 4 presets is definitely enough even if I don't currently have a way to change between them other than through the laptop.


----------



## Raysclim

Yes it is a Peugeot 407 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cobb2819

Out of the box it will support 4 presets, the expander is for additional presets


----------



## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

On how the BT streams 24/96 this is what the engineers told us at CES. If you have a program or app that allows you to play FLAC files that are 25/96 the BT interface on the 6 to 8 will allow 25/96 streaming to take place. The piece that Mosconi is using is brand new and I can personally confirm that it does play 24/96 files. I had several albums that I have downloaded from HDTracks on my IPad with the appropriate app to allow it to play FLAC and it works. Pretty amazing sound off my IPad. I listened to WIFi streaming via the Focal Ibox and then switched to BT on the 6 to 8. Pretty impressive on both. I was hard pressed to hear a difference. I didn't get into the details on how this works but I know what Hi Res sounds like , ( especially the 24/96 Fleeteood Mac Rumors album), and this was exactly what my home system recreates. It's pretty amazing!


----------



## Ludemandan

What are the dimensions of that new controller?


----------



## mulagain

Hey guys,

I noticed the 6to8 has a bare 'mic' socket and also shows 'MIC ANALOG INPUT' on the schematic. I can't find any info on an optional accessory, module, etc on Mosconis site or any other documentation though.

Kind of hoping this is an RTA minded capability via the console or at least a future proofing design for an upcoming feature (similar to the AMAS HD Bluetooth streaming). I reached out to a couple of vendors on the boards but thought I'd check here as well.


----------



## cobb2819

Ludemandan said:


> What are the dimensions of that new controller?


Same as the old controller, just a slight thinner.


----------



## WestCo

I am just curious has anyone found the 6to8 to color the sound significantly?
Just asking in general I haven't come across one yet.


----------



## cobb2819

mulagain said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I noticed the 6to8 has a bare 'mic' socket and also shows 'MIC ANALOG INPUT' on the schematic. I can't find any info on an optional accessory, module, etc on Mosconis site or any other documentation though.
> 
> Kind of hoping this is an RTA minded capability via the console or at least a future proofing design for an upcoming feature (similar to the AMAS HD Bluetooth streaming). I reached out to a couple of vendors on the boards but thought I'd check here as well.


Mic input for possible Bluetooth hands free kit.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Raysclim

Hello all ,

This is my current system setup 
Gladen Aerospace 2 way active speaker 
Audio system HX10 Phase subwoofer 
Mosconi Zero 4 amplifier 
Mosconi AS200.2 amplifier 
Mosconi DSP6to8 Processor with controller/display unit 
Stock Headunit (Peugeot 407)

Per my earlier post , the setup is completed but I am motivated to upgrade my head unit now 

I knew the ideal head unit will be one with optical output to feed to the processor , however ,it is just hard to find one around , Alpine DVA9861 is discontinued , ODR is just unreachable . So, when I saw 80PRS with all the modern function that I am currently lacking eg. BT, I device support ..etc . I just went ahead to order one .

My question are below , 

1. All cross over setting , TA ,gain ...etc are currently set on dsp6to8 processor , 80PRS have the similar function. If I install the pioneer head unit , Do I need to have two setting ? One on dsp6to8 and one on 80PRS ? Or just use one ( I suppose it gonna be dsp6to8) ? How to enable pioneer function on this as I am afraid it might interfere with DSP6to8 setting ?

2. For the idevice connecting to pioneer 80PRS , does it bypass idevice internal DAC and uses the DAC on the Pioneer ? 


Please help

Thanks 
Raymond


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Mic10is

Use the Mid or 2nd pair of preouts from the P80. it is the only full range output.
make all your adjustments thru the 6to8 for primary tuning and save.

if you need to tweak something on the fly for personal enjoyment, like adding more 80hz for subwoofer, you can do that thru the p80 and save that under custom eq on the p80

i run the same HU processor combo with zero issues


----------



## Raysclim

Mic10is said:


> Use the Mid or 2nd pair of preouts from the P80. it is the only full range output.
> make all your adjustments thru the 6to8 for primary tuning and save.
> 
> if you need to tweak something on the fly for personal enjoyment, like adding more 80hz for subwoofer, you can do that thru the p80 and save that under custom eq on the p80
> 
> i run the same HU processor combo with zero issues


Hi. Thanks for the advise. 
What Do you mean by using mid or 2nd pair of pre out of 80PRS ? 
I have watch a video from pioneer website that there's a toggle switch at the top side of 80prs chassis that allow to select right/rear/sub or high/mid/low 
As I am running 2 way active So I should switch to high/mid/low for my setup 
To connect to processor. Just use the 3 set of RCA output. 
Are you talking about the same thing? 
Thanks 
RAYMOND 

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mic10is

you donot need to use 3 sets of preouts.
all you need to run is one pair of RCA. you will connect it to the mid output which is the 2nd pair of pre outs. This is the only pre out that will give you full range output.

you will essentially be only using the P80 as a dead head transport. there would be no reason to hook up the sub output or front outputs into the 6to8 bc they are frequency limited.
its just adding more stuff in the signal chain to cause more issues.

You will not need to use ANY of the P80 processing if you are using the 6to8

outside of an easier way to make an on the fly, driving quick tune by playing with the eq and making a custom EQ setting on the P80 like I did--ALL your tuning will be done thru the 6to8


----------



## Raysclim

Mic10is said:


> you donot need to use 3 sets of preouts.
> all you need to run is one pair of RCA. you will connect it to the mid output which is the 2nd pair of pre outs. This is the only pre out that will give you full range output.
> 
> you will essentially be only using the P80 as a dead head transport. there would be no reason to hook up the sub output or front outputs into the 6to8 bc they are frequency limited.
> its just adding more stuff in the signal chain to cause more issues.
> 
> You will not need to use ANY of the P80 processing if you are using the 6to8
> 
> outside of an easier way to make an on the fly, driving quick tune by playing with the eq and making a custom EQ setting on the P80 like I did--ALL your tuning will be done thru the 6to8


Ah !! I understand now , basically 80PRS will act as a transport .all signal processing will be by 6to8 connected by mid pre out for full range signal . 
All tuning will be done on 6to8 such as TA ,cross over , gain..etc. and I uses 80PRS for some eq needs as when required so that basic setup setting done on 6to8 is still intact . 

Can I also assume that I device /radio/BT signal also going to same route to 6to8 ? 
Hope that 6to8 DAC chip is better than what 80PRS offered (24bit blur brown ) lol

Thanks 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Mic10is

I play Cds, listen to Ipod thru USB and stream Pandora via Bluetooth with the Pioneer.

6to8 uses very good parts


----------



## Raysclim

Mic10is said:


> I play Cds, listen to Ipod thru USB and stream Pandora via Bluetooth with the Pioneer.
> 
> 6to8 uses very good parts


Thanks! That's cool. 


Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## UNBROKEN

OK....I'm tired and my brain isn't functioning properly...someone please tell me how to wire this in with an OEM head unit with no RCA's....please?


----------



## papasin

UNBROKEN said:


> OK....I'm tired and my brain isn't functioning properly...someone please tell me how to wire this in with an OEM head unit with no RCA's....please?


Maybe with one of these:

http://www.mosconi-system.it/product/plugplay-cables/

or make your own?


----------



## cobb2819

UNBROKEN said:


> OK....I'm tired and my brain isn't functioning properly...someone please tell me how to wire this in with an OEM head unit with no RCA's....please?


Solder RCA ends onto speaker wire and set the 6to8 to high level in. I use a Bluetooth hands free kit harness from metra or the like and grab signal that way. Solder rca ends to that harness, then run rcas like normal. With that its still plug and play. I love the mosconi harnesses but they are really designed for the one series amps. The 6to8 doesn't need the speaker wire going back up to the factory radio unless you're working on a pita car that's difficult to run wire to the doors, then you can use it in an amp rack or barrier strip. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rcurley55

I'm having a hard time finding the system requirements for the 6to8 software. I downloaded the demo and tried to install it on my windows machine and it wouldn't work (ThinkPad using 64-bit Win 7 Pro SP1). 

Any ideas? I'm trying to decide between the 6to8 and Zapco DSP-Z8 (if I ditch my MS-8).


----------



## Mic10is

Windows XP/Vista/7 32 and 64bit


----------



## rcurley55

Mic10is said:


> Windows XP/Vista/7 32 and 64bit


Strange - I downloaded, extracted, and ran setup.exe and it does nothing at all. Here's the page I pulled it from:

GLADEN DSP 6to8


----------



## tonny

try out: GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY

The link on that site works better on my pc.


----------



## rcurley55

tonny said:


> try out: GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY
> 
> The link on that site works better on my pc.


That links to the exact same zip file


----------



## Raysclim

See post #859 , the link provided there works for me. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## rcurley55

Raysclim said:


> See post #859 , the link provided there works for me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


All of these links point to the same zip file:

http://www.gladen-audio.com/DSP/download/6to8/V10091/Setup10091.zip

For some reason, this doesn't work on my system and I can't figure out why. I have admin privileges, etc.


----------



## quality_sound

rcurley55 said:


> I'm having a hard time finding the system requirements for the 6to8 software. I downloaded the demo and tried to install it on my windows machine and it wouldn't work (ThinkPad using 64-bit Win 7 Pro SP1).
> 
> Any ideas? I'm trying to decide between the 6to8 and Zapco DSP-Z8 (if I ditch my MS-8).


No ideas here. I'm running it on a 64-Bit/Win 7 machine.


----------



## bigaudiofanatic

Mic10is said:


> you will not find many if any processors or products that allow Iphone to control it. Apple has very strict and EXPENSIVE licensing agreements which would add substantial cost to products


That makes me soooo happy.  DROID!!!!


----------



## Coppertone

Keep your Droid comments to yourself mister...........


----------



## bigaudiofanatic

Mic10is said:


> you will not find many if any processors or products that allow Iphone to control it. Apple has very strict and EXPENSIVE licensing agreements which would add substantial cost to products





Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> As the 6 to 8 has several ways to input signal, it could be possible to use one set of the RCA inputs as low level in and the other two as high level in. Don't see why it couldn't work.
> 
> Nick


Yes I believe you can use one set of inputs. Which is what I am planning on doing.


----------



## Mic10is

Mosconi - MOSCONI_GLADEN_DSP_6to8


AMAS Bluetooth module for 6to8 
(Advanced Multi Profiles audio streaming), high-end audio streaming



BT streaming audio files as well as uncompressed Wave, Flac (Apple) but also Lossless, MP3, etc.
A2DP EDR specification with the highest from any source such as pads / tablets / phones with iOS, Android or Win
6to8 best possible signal directly into digital DSP section, high-end pure!
Only for DSP 6to8 with optional SP-Dif multi card.
Speakerphone prepared!


----------



## t3sn4f2

Mic10is said:


> Mosconi - MOSCONI_GLADEN_DSP_6to8
> 
> 
> AMAS Bluetooth module for 6to8
> (Advanced Multi Profiles audio streaming), high-end audio streaming
> 
> 
> 
> BT streaming audio files as well as uncompressed Wave, Flac (Apple) but also Lossless, MP3, etc.
> A2DP EDR specification with the highest from any source such as pads / tablets / phones with iOS, Android or Win
> 6to8 best possible signal directly into digital DSP section, high-end pure!
> Only for DSP 6to8 with optional SP-Dif multi card.
> Speakerphone prepared!


Nice


----------



## wdemetrius1

^^


I have to agree, that is very nice!!!


----------



## cobb2819

^^ it is a super cool part, have one sitting in front of me right now. Had a chance to play with it throughout January.


----------



## wdemetrius1

^^

Do you have any videos of the unit in action?


----------



## chanthing

Greetings.

I've just obtained a new 6to8 via Ebay and due to the sparse documentation have a few questions I hope you kind folks can help answer:

1. The unit has firmware rev 1.20. I believe the current version is 1.40? Is there a site from which to download the new rev? What's the safest way to update, as I believe I read here of someone bricking their unit on an upgrade?

2. What's the proper setting of the Autosense switch if I want the 6to8 to provide remote on for my amplifier upon high-level input on inputs 1&2? 

3. What's the proper rating for an in-line fuse on the 12v line?

Thanks for any information you can provide. This looks like the perfect box for my relatively simple requirements. Tuning is definitely going to be a learning process, but first I gotta get the thing up and running.

-- Chan


----------



## cobb2819

wdemetrius1 said:


> ^^
> 
> Do you have any videos of the unit in action?


A video of an input card?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

chanthing said:


> Greetings.
> 
> I've just obtained a new 6to8 via Ebay and due to the sparse documentation have a few questions I hope you kind folks can help answer:
> 
> 1. The unit has firmware rev 1.20. I believe the current version is 1.40? Is there a site from which to download the new rev? What's the safest way to update, as I believe I read here of someone bricking their unit on an upgrade?


PM me your email address and I will send you the two files and the instructions. Please read the instructions before at least twice before you start to make sure you do not brick the 6to8. Since you purchased the Unit on eBay, you have no warranty.



chanthing said:


> 2. What's the proper setting of the Autosense switch if I want the 6to8 to provide remote on for my amplifier upon high-level input on inputs 1&2?


SE



chanthing said:


> 3. What's the proper rating for an in-line fuse on the 12v line?


I used a 5 amp



chanthing said:


> Thanks for any information you can provide. This looks like the perfect box for my relatively simple requirements. Tuning is definitely going to be a learning process, but first I gotta get the thing up and running.
> 
> -- Chan


----------



## wdemetrius1

cobb2819 said:


> A video of an input card?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


^^

Not the input card, but a video of someone using the 6 to 8, while streaming.


----------



## cobb2819

I guess I still don't understand. It is an internal card with no controls or display.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## wdemetrius1

^^

I was hoping for something along the lines of this:

2012 New Product Showcase - 3Sixty.3 Bluetooth Streaming - YouTube


----------



## cobb2819

^^ it's exactly like that. Just uses whatever audio source you wanna use, looks just like it does in your phone or tablet.


----------



## Mindcrime

Getting ready to install mine, not much in the way of documentation ..... Anything I need to know? Lol


----------



## cobb2819

^^ It's pretty straight forward, let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> ^^ It's pretty straight forward, just make sure the end of the card is positioned in a way that it is barely sticking out of the end cap. Make sure you have the multi so-did board installed also.


Do you have an update on your Ipad setup? 
I've been running the dsp with an analog source, but would like to step it up a notch. It seems that your solution is solid, but I would like to know that it works flawlessly from someone that actually have used it. 

Another question is the boot up time for the whole system, do the ipad and the rest of the system respond fast when the system is powered up?

Thank you


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Do you have an update on your Ipad setup?
> I've been running the dsp with an analog source, but would like to step it up a notch. It seems that your solution is solid, but I would like to know that it works flawlessly from someone that actually have used it.


It was working great for a while, then I switched to the D3 and integrated the analog vol control into the mix and it just wasn't perfect. I'm about to redo my entire source side of the car, along with everything else, and i'm going to be running the Bluetooth streaming interface, it'll be faster and more reliable, plus more versatile.



Ratking said:


> Another question is the boot up time for the whole system, do the ipad and the rest of the system respond fast when the system is powered up?
> 
> Thank you


Boot time is dependent on the D3's mood. Sometimes it'll boot and play audio instantly, other times it'll boot and i'll need to cycle sources...The 6to8 and Pure I20 boot very quickly, almost instantly, and i think the setup would run flawlessly if you used the Mosconi controller for volume and an iPad with pure I20 stand alone.


----------



## cobb2819

Mindcrime said:


> Getting ready to install mine, not much in the way of documentation ..... Anything I need to know? Lol


Wait, you're getting ready to install what??


----------



## tonny

Does any one have the v1.0.0.91 dsp setup software for me? who can email it to me.

I have downloaded the latest one the v1.0.0.92 and have some troubles with it... and can't 
find the old version on the pc. So I like to have the older version to test if I have the same
problems.


----------



## falstaff

Mic10is said:


> Speakerphone prepared!




What does this mean and/or what will this allow the 6to8 to do? 

Also what will the mic input allow the unit to do?

Nick, if your still reading this thread please pass along to mosconi:

It would be very helpful to be able to have the ability to make the GUI full screen, especially when using a tablet pc. Perhaps they could implement this with very little effort?


----------



## cobb2819

falstaff said:


> What does this mean and/or what will this allow the 6to8 to do?
> 
> Also what will the mic input allow the unit to do?
> 
> Nick, if your still reading this thread please pass along to mosconi:
> 
> It would be very helpful to be able to have the ability to make the GUI full screen, especially when using a tablet pc. Perhaps they could implement this with very little effort?


What are you referencing?? Your quote was not complete. The mic input will be to future hands free calling via the new Bluetooth streaming interface. 

Also, what do you need a GUI screen for??


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## falstaff

cobb2819 said:


> What are you referencing?? Your quote was not complete. The mic input will be to future hands free calling via the new Bluetooth streaming interface.
> 
> Also, what do you need a GUI screen for??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Sorry for that. 

I just wasnt clear on what a handsfee calling feature will do and how it will work? The 6to8 isnt a phone so it would need to interface with an existing phone correct? 

Also the software GUI used to make adjustments via the 6to8 software can not be expanded to a fullscreen view, and when using it on 10.1 tablet PC it makes it difficult to adjust the settings without a stylus. So it would be nice to be able to expand it to fullscreen.


----------



## cobb2819

falstaff said:


> Sorry for that.
> 
> I just wasnt clear on what a handsfee calling feature will do and how it will work? The 6to8 isnt a phone so it would need to interface with an existing phone correct?
> 
> Also the software GUI used to make adjustments via the 6to8 software can not be expanded to a fullscreen view, and when using it on 10.1 tablet PC it makes it difficult to adjust the settings without a stylus. So it would be nice to be able to expand it to fullscreen.


Yes, hands free calling when interfaced with a phone, not a tablet or music player. 

The software Is a little more difficult because its more than just a graphic interface, it would be whole different software package to be done properly, dependent on device and solution. The software interface is designed to run on net books and small displays, which is why it's small, but I'll pass the work along. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## falstaff

Thanks. 

I guess I really don't understand why if the software was designed for small screens that the window the interface shows up in cant be enlarged.

It's the same as the ps8 software.

Again thanks for your response!


----------



## cobb2819

falstaff said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I guess I really don't understand why if the software was designed for small screens that the window the interface shows up in cant be enlarged.
> 
> It's the same as the ps8 software.
> 
> Again thanks for your response!


Might I suggest adjusting your tablet pc's resolution so a smaller setting to make the software larger.


----------



## Golden Ear

I have an iPhone and a MacBook Pro, is the only way to tune this thing for me still thru parallels or bootcamp on my MacBook?


----------



## chanthing

Golden Ear said:


> I have an iPhone and a MacBook Pro, is the only way to tune this thing for me still thru parallels or bootcamp on my MacBook?


Or VMware's Fusion.


----------



## chanthing

cobb2819 said:


> chanthing said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2. What's the proper setting of the Autosense switch if I want the 6to8 to provide remote on for my amplifier upon high-level input on inputs 1&2?
> 
> 
> 
> SE
Click to expand...

I had to set it to "BTL" when running speaker-level output from my VW RCD-510 HU to get the 6to8 to power up and trigger remote on for my amp when I turn on the HU.

On another topic, does anyone else have problems getting the setup software to display the correct frequency chart after changing crossover settings? It makes me a little nervous when I go to view my settings and two channels display as flat when settings in the crossover panel for those channels have one or more filters applied. It's probably just a bug in the display of the information, but I'd hate to fry a tweeter because the high pass filter I configured was somehow not enabled.

Other than that, the software is pretty straightforward, but I have no experience with other DSPs with which to compare it.


----------



## quality_sound

I thought the freq chart only showed EQ changes.


----------



## james2266

quality_sound said:


> I thought the freq chart only showed EQ changes.


Nope, it shows eq, crossover and level for me but very inconsistantly... I never use it because of this.


----------



## chanthing

quality_sound said:


> I thought the freq chart only showed EQ changes.


On mine, it does (sometimes) show the crossover curves as well. Which is great for a newbie like me who doesn't know the difference between the various filter slope variants.


----------



## Golden Ear

chanthing said:


> Or VMware's Fusion.


Can you elaborate on this a little? Where do you get it, how much is it, how it works? Thanks!


----------



## bertholomey

Golden Ear said:


> Can you elaborate on this a little? Where do you get it, how much is it, how it works? Thanks!


Hey GE......I can comment on this.....

I use to have Parallels for my MBPro - had issues that I eventually got too fed up with, so I switched to VMWare Fusion 5. You can download a 30 day trial (which I would suggest doing before buying). You would have to take off Parallels if you already have that installed. VMWare Fusion

The Fusion 5 install is very intuitive in terms of installing Windows from a disc, etc.

VMWare allows you to run Windows as a virtual machine on the Mac, and I prefer the menus, etc that VMWare uses - much more Mac-like. I had a devil of a time getting the USB/Bluetooth stuff to work with Parallels, but it worked very well with VMWare. 

You need 2GBs of RAM to run VMWare (need to allocate that much for the virtual machine), which made my 4GB MBPro run slow.....I finally upgraded to 16GB RAM and added a 512GB SSD - now the machine works really well. 

So now I have no drama when I get in the car, fire up the system, fire up the 6to8 software and fire up Room EQ Wizard software for tuning. Of course - you can always effectively run Windows as a dual-boot machine and run the Mosconi software that way. I really wish they would provide a Mac native version of their software like Home Theater Shack does with REW. Let me know if you have further questions.


----------



## papasin

bertholomey said:


> Hey GE......I can comment on this.....
> 
> I use to have Parallels for my MBPro - had issues that I eventually got too fed up with, so I switched to VMWare Fusion 5. You can download a 30 day trial (which I would suggest doing before buying). You would have to take off Parallels if you already have that installed. VMWare Fusion
> 
> The Fusion 5 install is very intuitive in terms of installing Windows from a disc, etc.
> 
> VMWare allows you to run Windows as a virtual machine on the Mac, and I prefer the menus, etc that VMWare uses - much more Mac-like. I had a devil of a time getting the USB/Bluetooth stuff to work with Parallels, but it worked very well with VMWare.
> 
> You need 2GBs of RAM to run VMWare (need to allocate that much for the virtual machine), which made my 4GB MBPro run slow.....I finally upgraded to 16GB RAM and added a 512GB SSD - now the machine works really well.
> 
> So now I have no drama when I get in the car, fire up the system, fire up the 6to8 software and fire up Room EQ Wizard software for tuning. Of course - you can always effectively run Windows as a dual-boot machine and run the Mosconi software that way. I really wish they would provide a Mac native version of their software like Home Theater Shack does with REW. Let me know if you have further questions.


+1. Have used VMWare Fusion with 6to8, H800, and 3Sixty.3 and pretty much any processor with no problems or drama. Have all my tuning-related s/w encapuslated in an XP VM that is Windows only.

Golden Ear, I can give you a demo when you come up .


----------



## Golden Ear

@ Bertholomey: that's very helpful. Thank you so much. I'm going to try that out and see how it works on my mbpro.
@ Papasin: that'd be great! I was already looking forward to meeting up and now I have one more thing to look forward to


----------



## cobb2819

Golden Ear said:


> I have an iPhone and a MacBook Pro, is the only way to tune this thing for me still thru parallels or bootcamp on my MacBook?


Bootcamp works easiest for me. Even if you had an android phone, you still would not be able to tune. I've had no problems with bootcamp, and I've been flashing units, updating firmware, and tuning with my MacBook, and have had less problems than when I use my NetBook.


----------



## jel847

bertholomey said:


> So now I have no drama when I get in the car, fire up the system, fire up the 6to8 software and fire up Room EQ Wizard software for tuning.


What is room eq wizard? And do you use it for tuning your car?


----------



## quality_sound

Google it and you'll find it on Home Theater Shack. It's a tuning tool much like TrueRTA.


----------



## bertholomey

You can check this out as well - don't get hung up on the mic calibration thing like I did - just put the cal file in and follow Erin's steps for using the software - super easy. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...44399-rta-walkthrough-usage-thread-video.html


----------



## chanthing

cobb2819 said:


> Bootcamp works easiest for me. Even if you had an android phone, you still would not be able to tune. I've had no problems with bootcamp, and I've been flashing units, updating firmware, and tuning with my MacBook, and have had less problems than when I use my NetBook.


Have you tried Fusion? I have to admit I've never used Bootcamp, but I don't see how having to reboot and then not have access to OSX whenever I needed to run a Windows program would be easier than essentially having a Windows computer running simultaneously alongside OSX. And aside from having to have a licensed copy of Windows, the consumer version of Fusion is only $50.


----------



## cobb2819

chanthing said:


> Have you tried Fusion? I have to admit I've never used Bootcamp, but I don't see how having to reboot and then not have access to OSX whenever I needed to run a Windows program would be easier than essentially having a Windows computer running simultaneously alongside OSX. And aside from having to have a licensed copy of Windows, the consumer version of Fusion is only $50.


The reason for bootcamp, and why I like it, is that all software while run in bootcamp does not have a clue what kind of hardware it's running on. To the best of my knowledge, which is not that strong in this area, it doesn't make sense to boot into OSX, load all of their USB drivers, then load a program that tries to take controls of USB drivers. I've used Parallels and it works, but I have not used it for prolonged period of time or anything more than quick and simple tuning. I've never needed access to OSX programs while in windows, so it was never a problem for me.


----------



## chanthing

cobb2819 said:


> The reason for bootcamp, and why I like it, is that all software while run in bootcamp does not have a clue what kind of hardware it's running on. To the best of my knowledge, which is not that strong in this area, it doesn't make sense to boot into OSX, load all of their USB drivers, then load a program that tries to take controls of USB drivers. I've used Parallels and it works, but I have not used it for prolonged period of time or anything more than quick and simple tuning. I've never needed access to OSX programs while in windows, so it was never a problem for me.


My bad, then. If you're able to separate your use of Windows and OSX cleanly like that, then bootcamp is a fine solution. I just like the effect of essentially having an (almost) completely independent Windows virtual machine running alongside OSX. The software running in that virtual machine has no clue whatsoever that it is not running on an actual separate physical computer. If you use the Fusion controls to connect a particular USB device to the Windows VM, then my understanding is that once the arbitrator service hands off control to the VM, WIndows is accessing the device directly. It's not going through multiple layers of drivers. As Windows sees it, it's exactly as if the user has just plugged in the USB cable for that device. There are some extra layers involving the USB controller itself, but not the particular devices plugged into the controller. 

I can't speak for Parallels, but as embodied in Fusion (or VMware Workstation or ESXi, VMware's enterprise-level hypervisor) contemporary virtualization software is incredibly flexible and inefficient. As another poster commented, the one resource where you will notice contention is main memory, which makes perfect sense, because both operating systems need the same amount of memory they would need when running natively, so for a responsive system, you will want to have real physical memory equal to the sum of the memory used by OSX and Windows (running in Fusion) plus a little overhead.

Sorry for the detour. I'll shut up now.


----------



## Ratking

cobb2819 said:


> It was working great for a while, then I switched to the D3 and integrated the analog vol control into the mix and it just wasn't perfect. I'm about to redo my entire source side of the car, along with everything else, and i'm going to be running the Bluetooth streaming interface, it'll be faster and more reliable, plus more versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> Boot time is dependent on the D3's mood. Sometimes it'll boot and play audio instantly, other times it'll boot and i'll need to cycle sources...The 6to8 and Pure I20 boot very quickly, almost instantly, and i think the setup would run flawlessly if you used the Mosconi controller for volume and an iPad with pure I20 stand alone.


Thank you, that was my plan also. I would like to have a master volume controller that is physical, and not a slide on a screen. I would guess that fine tuning the volume could be tricky when driving.
I just have to suck it up and pay the price for the display.

Do you have a cure for popping and noise when the I start the engine?
If it still makes the popping when I switch to digital input it must be the power supply?

Thank you


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Thank you, that was my plan also. I would like to have a master volume controller that is physical, and not a slide on a screen. I would guess that fine tuning the volume could be tricky when driving.
> I just have to suck it up and pay the price for the display.
> 
> Do you have a cure for popping and noise when the I start the engine?
> If it still makes the popping when I switch to digital input it must be the power supply?
> 
> Thank you


You need to figure out what the boot processes is. It could be that the amps are turning on before the 6to8 powers up if you are using a different ignition source. You could always use like a Pac TR7 for delayed turn on triggered by the same source that would turn the amps on after the 6to8 is on.


----------



## jel847

if you have the memory expansion module can you access the extra presets with the android app or the controller?


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> if you have the memory expansion module can you access the extra presets with the android app or the controller?


The Memory Module replaces the existing presets when it's plugged in.


----------



## chanthing

chanthing said:


> On mine, it does (sometimes) show the crossover curves as well. Which is great for a newbie like me who doesn't know the difference between the various filter slope variants.


I have discovered that as long as you are actually connected to the DSP while using the 6to8 software, the frequency chart display updates correctly for changes made to the crossover filters.

One big "feature" that surprised me because I wasn't paying attention is that when you save or restore settings to / from a file on your Windows system, you are only dealing with the current preset. I had just assumed that it would save and restore the entire set of four presets. And that when you start up the software, everything is set to defaults (i.e. blank). So, think very carefully before you select the option that copies settings from the "console" (software) to the 6to8 when you start up. Unless you've made sure to* load the saved settings for each preset*, then it is quite likely you will overwrite useful information on the device with a blank preset.


----------



## jel847

I have a android tablet I was planning on using with the app to control my 6to8 but the stupid thing won't recognize it. My windows phone and computer see it no problem. Could the OS on the software be the problem?
Should have just bought the remote...


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> I have a android tablet I was planning on using with the app to control my 6to8 but the stupid thing won't recognize it. My windows phone and computer see it no problem. Could the OS on the software be the problem?
> Should have just bought the remote...


We've been talking about your car at work!!! The tablet is throwing me for a loop. I've tried it with several tablets and android phones so far, and for some reason, it just doesn't like yours. The controller is the way to go for Sub Control and preset adjustment because it seems to be a lot easier.


----------



## jel847

cobb2819 said:


> We've been talking about your car at work!!! The tablet is throwing me for a loop. I've tried it with several tablets and android phones so far, and for some reason, it just doesn't like yours. The controller is the way to go for Sub Control and preset adjustment because it seems to be a lot easier.


Lol...dan and I messed with it for a while but couldn't get it to work. Every other device we had recognized the 6to8 so its definitely the tablet. Dans going to order me a controller.


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Lol...dan and I messed with it for a while but couldn't get it to work. Every other device we had recognized the 6to8 so its definitely the tablet. Dans going to order me a controller.


I think you'll like the controller. I'll be using on in my car this time. The analog vol control for the optical input is too unpredictable. The AMAS streaming interface is quite amazing also!!!


----------



## james2266

What is the price on this controller? Someone can PM that too if they prefer. It would be nice to be able to tune more than one preset to use in the ride at a time.


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> What is the price on this controller? Someone can PM that too if they prefer. It would be nice to be able to tune more than one preset to use in the ride at a time.


Priced around $330. Need to double check Monday. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jel847

Just got my controller and this thing is soo sexy!! Kinda big but very pretty...


----------



## jel847

some pics:


----------



## Neil_J

Which parameters will the external control module allow you to change? Is it basically the same as the android app? Or can you do time alignment, parametric eq, etc?


----------



## jel847

same as the app. the app was too fussy and the Bluetooth wouldn't work with my tablet or I would have gone that route.


----------



## Carlo_Almeida

Anybody that has performed the firmware update and can help me? I'm currently using version 1.2 and would like to upgrade to the latest one. Thanks in andvance


----------



## cobb2819

Carlo_Almeida said:


> Anybody that has performed the firmware update and can help me? I'm currently using version 1.2 and would like to upgrade to the latest one. Thanks in andvance


Pm me your email address, and I can get you the updates and instructions. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ATB

Has anyone tried / gotten working the feature where the volume of the digital input is controlled via the analog input?

I'd like to use this with an i20 and my factory head unit for volume control. After using a 3sixty a few years back in another car, I never want to go back to an external volume control.


----------



## oca123

I think for that to work you would need the same signal on both inputs.


----------



## ATB

Which the i20 can supposedly do..send the "same" signal out its analog and digital outputs. The analog would be run through the factory deck's aux-in and the digital to the 6to8.



oca123 said:


> I think for that to work you would need the same signal on both inputs.


----------



## cobb2819

ATB said:


> Which the i20 can supposedly do..send the "same" signal out its analog and digital outputs. The analog would be run through the factory deck's aux-in and the digital to the 6to8.


It's a little quirky but works very well. The trigger sensitivity needs to be perfect to keep the optical input from turning off and back on again.


----------



## ATB

cobb2819 said:


> It's a little quirky but works very well. The trigger sensitivity needs to be perfect to keep the optical input from turning off and back on again.


Good to hear. This requires the base unit + the optical input board, correct? I've seen the pricing on the base unit. What does the optical board run?


----------



## cobb2819

ATB said:


> Good to hear. This requires the base unit + the optical input board, correct? I've seen the pricing on the base unit. What does the optical board run?


Yes, the optical board is required. It is $200 USD


----------



## mulagain

Love the 6to8, but the v92 release has created a handful of issues for me. Has anyone else seen these?

1- Issues with the 6to8 software crashing regularly. I see this about every 10 minutes or so. Luckily it is saving changes on-the-fly so its more of an annoyance waiting for it to reload than anything.










2- I also noticed in v92 the PEQ isn't displaying the Q value on the board. 










3- The VariableQ no longer lets me change the dB level or Hz. 










4- The XO channels now only have 4 filters available. They used to have 5. This one is especially annoying...










None of these issues occurred for me until the update. Rolling back to v89 didn't help even after a complete registry wipe. I may try a firmware update or just wait for Mosconi to reply to my e-mail.

Anyone experienced these and/or know how to fix them?


----------



## Neil_J

mulagain said:


> Love the 6to8, but the v92 release has created a handful of issues for me. Has anyone else seen these?
> 
> 1- Issues with the 6to8 software crashing regularly. I see this about every 10 minutes or so. Luckily it is saving changes on-the-fly so its more of an annoyance waiting for it to reload than anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2- I also noticed in v92 the PEQ isn't displaying the Q value on the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3- The VariableQ no longer lets me change the dB level or Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4- The XO channels now only have 4 filters available. They used to have 5. This one is especially annoying...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> None of these issues occurred for me until the update. Rolling back to v89 didn't help even after a complete registry wipe. I may try a firmware update or just wait for Mosconi to reply to my e-mail.
> 
> Anyone experienced these and/or know how to fix them?


Wow. Just wow.


----------



## BigAl205

I just downloaded it to my PC. Luckily I haven't updated the firmware yet.


----------



## mulagain

BigAl205 said:


> I just downloaded it to my PC. Luckily I haven't updated the firmware yet.


This is just the DSP software update (v92) not the firmware. I'm still on whatever it shipped with. It's about 3 months old so I'm guessing 1.0-1.2... will check.


----------



## BigAl205

mulagain said:


> This is just the DSP software update (v92) not the firmware. I'm still on whatever it shipped with. It's about 3 months old so I'm guessing 1.0-1.2... will check.


In that case, the v.92 software looks exactly the same, with 5 crossover levels and the Q shows on the EQ...nothing looks different to me. I haven't hooked it up to the DSP yet, so something might change after connection


----------



## BigAl205

Here's what I see...


----------



## decibelle

Ditto Al. Looks the same to me too.


----------



## BigAl205

Mulagain, what operating system are you running on your computer?


----------



## mulagain

I'm running Win8 Pro 64. Mine used to look just like yours and I was using the same laptop/OS. I'm pretty sure this all started acting up after installing v92 which was yesterday. Weird....


----------



## Mic10is

Mine is the same. no differences and I took forever to upgrade


----------



## BigAl205

mulagain said:


> I'm running Win8 Pro 64. Mine used to look just like yours and I was using the same laptop/OS. I'm pretty sure this all started acting up after installing v92 which was yesterday. Weird....


There are 2 links for downloading software...one is the software update, and the other is the complete setup. I'm betting that one of them is conflicting with Win8


EDIT: I forgot that you said software only in a previous post. I'm running Win7 so I couldn't duplicate the problem.


----------



## mulagain

BigAl205 said:


> There are 2 links for downloading software...one is the software update, and the other is the complete setup. I'm betting that one of them is conflicting with Win8
> 
> 
> EDIT: I forgot that you said software only in a previous post. I'm running Win7 so I couldn't duplicate the problem.


Yeah I tried the update first, uninstalled, then the full version. No luck.

Honestly I may just reinstall windows to see if it helps.


----------



## cobb2819

I've been playing with mine today and do not have the same issues. My software works as intended. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## basher8621

Mine Is Working Just fine


----------



## mulagain

Are any of you guys running Win 8? I think that may be the problem. I installed v92 on two other machines to check and both show only 4xo filters and the Q is blank.


----------



## basher8621

I Am Running Win 8


----------



## Ratking

Cobb,
Do you know what pins in the multi connector that is used between the Ipad and docking? 
I bought an extension cable for an Ipad, but it did not have the full 30 pins used, only 8. i know I have usb, power and analog audio. I wonder if power and usb is enough. I'm building a docking for the Ipad


----------



## mulagain

I noticed they just pushed another update on the software download page. v92 is now replaced with 4to6/6to8 V108.

And my problems are fixed! 5 filters, Q shows value, etc. Glad they fixed that


----------



## cobb2819

Ratking said:


> Cobb,
> Do you know what pins in the multi connector that is used between the Ipad and docking?
> I bought an extension cable for an Ipad, but it did not have the full 30 pins used, only 8. i know I have usb, power and analog audio. I wonder if power and usb is enough. I'm building a docking for the Ipad


I do not, I have not really researched the 30-pin breakout much. There are several forums and pieces out that will allow you to do just about anything with the 30-pin.


----------



## jel847

What is 4to6? Is that a new processor?


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> What is 4to6? Is that a new processor?


It is, it's a 4 in and 6 out DSP. Will be available as a base model and a model with Optical built in.


----------



## jel847

Smaller enclosure than the 6to8? Price?


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Smaller enclosure than the 6to8? Price?


Exact same size, priced tentatively at $579 for the base model, and $649 for the SP-Dif. Prices are subject to change without notice once they are released.


----------



## strakele

Does everyone else get piss poor download speeds from the software download page? I've noticed with the past couple updates I don't get much more that 17 kB/s from them.


----------



## mulagain

strakele said:


> Does everyone else get piss poor download speeds from the software download page? I've noticed with the past couple updates I don't get much more that 17 kB/s from them.


Yes, 20k tops.


----------



## qwertzu

Does somebody have the communication protocoll between the controller and the DSP? I want to build up a can bus controller which reads out my steering wheel remote control and controls the volume and sub level of the DSP.


----------



## oca123

Its not can bus, i believe its i2c and the controller is a slave


----------



## jel847

Is anyone using a android device for remote control? I'm thinking about ditching the mosconi controller and going android. I'm thinking a small galaxy tab or something like that. I can also use it for the new V1 app which is the real selling point for me. The mosconi controller looks great and works as it should just not the easiest thing for me to operate. The wheel on it is just too odd of a size and is awkward.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Not sure how much control the controller gives you but you don't get much control with the android.


----------



## BigAl205

The Android app gives you balance, fader, and choice of the 4 presets. That's all.


----------



## jel847

Master volume And sub level as well.
The app and the wired controller do the same thing.
I was looking for feedback from people using the app. Does it stay connected, reliable etc.


----------



## bertholomey

jel847 said:


> Master volume And sub level as well.
> The app and the wired controller do the same thing.
> I was looking for feedback from people using the app. Does it stay connected, reliable etc.


My experience with a Droid X......it stayed connected fairly well - typically while driving or sitting and listening, the bluetooth would stay connected - every once in a while it would drop, and then you would have to hit 'connect' - takes a couple seconds. Choosing between the four presets was decent, but what drove me crazy was the sub volume. 

I'd leave the house in my manual shift car on country roads, was listening to SQ music in the garage the night before with the sub down low, need to move it up to overcome road noise and to rock out some driving music.......phone out, turn blue tooth on, swipe to the MOS app, hit connect, get the right preset, swipe volume all the way up, and then swipe the sub volume control......all this while shifting and dodging various live / dead animals in the road  

The sub volume wasn't always accurate to swipe - while driving and trying to do it one handed, it sometimes took a few attempts to get it to adjust. So I bought the controller to offset some of this.......it wouldn't connect (control the processor) while the BT dongle was plugged in (on the one I had), so I took it out. Finally, I ran another RCA to the processor to have sub volume control back on my Head Unit. Then the Android app was only used for preset choice when I didn't have the laptop out......much less stress for me. 

So....in summary....it was fairly reliable in terms of the app connecting and staying connected to the BT dongle.......but it was difficult to use while driving in my experience simply due to the unresponsiveness of the controls (i.e. the sliders - if the arrows had worked at the top / bottom of the slider, maybe that would have been better). Just my experience.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Is 1.2 still teh latest firmware?


----------



## cobb2819

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Is 1.2 still teh latest firmware?


1.44 is the latest


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

cobb2819 said:


> 1.44 is the latest


Link to firmware? I can only find the updated software


----------



## cobb2819

Got-Four-Eights said:


> Link to firmware? I can only find the updated software


Send me a PM with your email address.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

cobb2819 said:


> Send me a PM with your email address.


PM sent! Is the firmware this hard to get a hold of? Is there a best method for the update?


----------



## cobb2819

Got-Four-Eights said:


> PM sent! Is the firmware this hard to get a hold of? Is there a best method for the update?


No, not at all. I will email you the 3 files tomorrow when I get to the shop. It's a pretty easy update after you read the instructions a couple times. Also, your 6to8 has to be on FW 1.2 already. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

cobb2819 said:


> No, not at all. I will email you the 3 files tomorrow when I get to the shop. It's a pretty easy update after you read the instructions a couple times. Also, your 6to8 has to be on FW 1.2 already.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am 1.2 already and I also am a Desktop support tech so firmware updates are kinda my thing lol. I will follow the instructions you send  Thx!!!!


----------



## cobb2819

Got-Four-Eights said:


> I am 1.2 already and I also am a Desktop support tech so firmware updates are kinda my thing lol. I will follow the instructions you send  Thx!!!!


I didn't mean It was tricky, just that all of the info sheet graphics are still in German. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

cobb2819 said:


> I didn't mean It was tricky, just that all of the info sheet graphics are still in German.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Well I don't read German so that is trick! lol  I appreciate your help!


----------



## mulagain

Been emailing with Mosconi over the last week. All's well now except the occasional crash over BT. Here's the latest response from them.

----

Hi Chris,

thanks for all the information which were really helpful and also good to hear that the original error has gone in the meantime....I've forgot to answer your question about the bluetooth connection...As I can see it so far, there are few issues with bluetooth which causes the connection to be dropped from to time to time - and my guess is that the crash you were describing was originally be caused by a connection failure.

As to the mentioned application crash I've added a fix into version 1.1.0.109. Our support guys will let you know once the new version goes public. 

Regards,
Joachim

-------

So that's good news they know about the dropped connection / crash issues. Looking forward to the next update.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

I was getting a lot of crashes over BT also.. where it lost connection. Will see how the latest software does and the latest firmware together. I havent touched my 6 to 8 setup in probably 6 months so I was running some older software.


----------



## BigAl205

I just got a new Win8 laptop and loaded the new software. I'm seeing the same changes...only 4 filters, visual rendering issues, etc. I haven't tried to use it to tune yet, so I can't comment on the loss of BT connectivity.


----------



## cobb2819

mulagain said:


> Been emailing with Mosconi over the last week. All's well now except the occasional crash over BT. Here's the latest response from them.
> 
> ----
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> thanks for all the information which were really helpful and also good to hear that the original error has gone in the meantime....I've forgot to answer your question about the bluetooth connection...As I can see it so far, there are few issues with bluetooth which causes the connection to be dropped from to time to time - and my guess is that the crash you were describing was originally be caused by a connection failure.
> 
> As to the mentioned application crash I've added a fix into version 1.1.0.109. Our support guys will let you know once the new version goes public.
> 
> Regards,
> Joachim
> 
> -------
> 
> So that's good news they know about the dropped connection / crash issues. Looking forward to the next update.


You should ask them if there are any plans for a BT4.0 link instead of the BT3.0 that is out now.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Hey Cobb, did my update but it shows firmware 1.4 now in the lower left corner and not 1.44.. that correct? Both flashes went off without a hitch. I could see how someone could really mess up the flash and brick their 6to8 if they don't follow those instructions. Flash was pretty easy overall!


----------



## jel847

so i was looking at the mosconi website and it looks like there are several versions of the 4to6 available? one with digital input and one without.
also odd how they have three seperate controls(external) for master volume, sub level, pre set switch and what appears to be the controller that does all of the above.
i guess they have the three options in case you dont want one or the other? like you could have just sub level or just sub level and pre sets?

anyone have any info on the 4to6? anything else different than the 6to8 other than the number of inputs and outputs?


GLADEN DSP 4to6


----------



## jel847

how many versions of the controller are there?
my biggest gripe is the rotary dial being too small and hard to grasp but i have seen pictures of a controller with a much larger dial.


----------



## james2266

I read something along the lines of being able to link these 4to6 to other 4to6s to increase channel capability. Can a 6to8 be linked to a 4to6 to give 10 separate channels of DSP action? Has anyone tried this yet if it is possible? I am also curious if these DSPs can process a center channel as well. Has anyone tried any of this yet and have info. I would be very interested. My new vehicle comes with 11 speaker locations from factory including a center and it would be nice to use that. 3 way front, sub, rears and center is what I am really thinking about in due time.


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> how many versions of the controller are there?
> my biggest gripe is the rotary dial being too small and hard to grasp but i have seen pictures of a controller with a much larger dial.


Too small or two thin???


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jel847

If you use the digital in and out I don't see why you can't daisy chain them but how would you control them?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> I read something along the lines of being able to link these 4to6 to other 4to6s to increase channel capability. Can a 6to8 be linked to a 4to6 to give 10 separate channels of DSP action? Has anyone tried this yet if it is possible? I am also curious if these DSPs can process a center channel as well. Has anyone tried any of this yet and have info. I would be very interested. My new vehicle comes with 11 speaker locations from factory including a center and it would be nice to use that. 3 way front, sub, rears and center is what I am really thinking about in due time.


You would probably want to do 2 4to6 SP-Dif and then figure out more details on the vehicle. Without knowing the specific car and trim, you might not need 11 channels of input, only output and 11 amp channels. The Mosconi dsps will do a center because the unit is fully programmable. Unlink the crossovers and do not group level or time alignment, and it'll do just about anything you want it to do. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> If you use the digital in and out I don't see why you can't daisy chain them but how would you control them?


Still trying to figure out all the details. We just got them in stock this week. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jel847

cobb2819 said:


> Too small or two thin???
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Too thin!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Too thin!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


When you take the display apart, you can adjust the depth with the set screw on the knob.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> You would probably want to do 2 4to6 SP-Dif and then figure out more details on the vehicle. Without knowing the specific car and trim, you might not need 11 channels of input, only output and 11 amp channels. The Mosconi dsps will do a center because the unit is fully programmable. Unlink the crossovers and do not group level or time alignment, and it'll do just about anything you want it to do.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for that. I currently have the 6to8 so that is why I was looking at the 4to6. I don't have the sdif board however so this would not work then? Can they be linked via analogue? I also do not think that any of these will do center steering in any way so I would likely have to tap the factory amp for that? Really don't want to be chopping any wires. I haven't even picked up the new vehicle yet actually and I am already planning a few things here for down the road possibly Oh, vehicle in question is a 2007 Lexus RX400h. I am concerned about adding a big electrical draw (stereo) to the hybrid system too. Are my concerns unwarranted?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> Thanks for that. I currently have the 6to8 so that is why I was looking at the 4to6. I don't have the sdif board however so this would not work then? Can they be linked via analogue? I also do not think that any of these will do center steering in any way so I would likely have to tap the factory amp for that? Really don't want to be chopping any wires. I haven't even picked up the new vehicle yet actually and I am already planning a few things here for down the road possibly Oh, vehicle in question is a 2007 Lexus RX400h. I am concerned about adding a big electrical draw (stereo) to the hybrid system too. Are my concerns unwarranted?


The linking is done via the optical connections, and not through analog, so there is that. And i believe the level control is done in the digital domain via attenuation through the optical, so...could it work with a 6to8 in the lead and a 4to8 slave...well...maybe.

Without seeing the factory amplifier setup, I cannot begin to honestly tell you what your car will or will not support. On paper you would probably use the factory amp outputs, but like some Lexus models, certain drivers might be full range so you will not need the full gambit of amp outputs and dsp inputs. Will you need to tap the factory center channel, maybe, can you do without it in a full active system and use time alignment and phase adjustment to create a true center stage, yup. Remember, stereo mean L&R, so the center speaker is made up to start with. 

As for the electrical draw on the hybrid charging system, yes, but that is an entirely different set of batteries. If you're that worried, build a small great sounding setup that doesn't require a lot of amplification. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jel847

cobb2819 said:


> You would probably want to do 2 4to6 SP-Dif and then figure out more details on the vehicle. Without knowing the specific car and trim, you might not need 11 channels of input, only output and 11 amp channels. The Mosconi dsps will do a center because the unit is fully programmable. Unlink the crossovers and do not group level or time alignment, and it'll do just about anything you want it to do.



I have seen the mosconi hi lo adapters used to gain a extra set of inputs if you really need that many.


----------



## jel847

cobb2819 said:


> When you take the display apart, you can adjust the depth with the set screw on the knob.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm going to slap myself if that's all I have to do.


----------



## james2266

jel847 said:


> I have seen the mosconi hi lo adapters used to gain a extra set of inputs if you really need that many.


I am a little confused by this. Mosconi hi/lo adapters? Please, explain this.


----------



## jel847

The 6to8 has six inputs. If you need more than six inputs you could use the hi lo or the summing hi lo if needed and take four of your factory inputs and gain a set of inputs on the 6to8 by summing it down to two. I think it was one of Bing's installs I saw him do this but I believe he did it because he used a cd changer on one set of inputs. 
http://www.mosconi-system.it/product/hla-sum/

Like Cobb said it depends how many amplifier channels or outputs you need and how many outputs your factory system has. Just because your factory system has 11 outputs doesn't mean you have to use all 11.


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> I am a little confused by this. Mosconi hi/lo adapters? Please, explain this.


As posted above. The HLA-Sum could be used to sum 4 channels into 2 and feed the 6to8 or whatever that way. Tons of possibilities here.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jel847

Ok...so I complained about the knob on the controller and how awkward it was. Cobb2819 informed me I could adjust the depth of the knob which I was unaware of. I just adjusted it and pulled the knob out to full depth, this changes everything. Now it is totally usable and it even lights up red which looks very cool!
I feel like a idiot because it was a simple fix.


----------



## jel847

Before:





After:


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Ok...so I complained about the knob on the controller and how awkward it was. Cobb2819 informed me I could adjust the depth of the knob which I was unaware of. I just adjusted it and pulled the knob out to full depth, this changes everything. Now it is totally usable and it even lights up red which looks very cool!
> I feel like a idiot because it was a simple fix.


I'm amazing, I know!!! Haha. I'm glad that was the fix you needed. I'm not gonna lie, I actually think it looks and feels a lot better with the knob out also.


----------



## jel847

Thanks for telling me. I was ready to ditch the controller!


----------



## Ivan84

I am using lossless files as well as MOG from an iPad mini via Bluetooth to the 6to8 and am struggling with losing the first 2 to 40 seconds with every song change. Is there a way to correct this?


----------



## cobb2819

Ivan84 said:


> I am using lossless files as well as MOG from an iPad mini via Bluetooth to the 6to8 and am struggling with losing the first 2 to 40 seconds with every song change. Is there a way to correct this?


Adjust the input sensitivity slider on the sp-dif input tab to keep the unit from triggering off as quickly as it does. I assume you're using the AMAS interface. The shop that installed it should be able to make the adjustment. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Ivan84

Thank you for the prompt reply.


----------



## jel847

Someone mentioned something about wifi connection for file transfer to the 6to8???? Anyone know anything about this?


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Someone mentioned something about wifi connection for file transfer to the 6to8???? Anyone know anything about this?


No wifi capabilities. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mikechec9

Peace

Anyone figure out how to deal with this automatic muting function? Any software updates? It's "a bit" perturbing.


----------



## cobb2819

mikechec9 said:


> Peace
> 
> Anyone figure out how to deal with this automatic muting function? Any software updates? It's "a bit" perturbing.


Turn the input sensitivity down and retune, and scope your sources output and find out if its clipping at any point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## quality_sound

I ran high level into my 6to8 and it took about 15 seconds to find the correct level. It's pretty straight forward. What volume are you doing this at?


----------



## mikechec9

I'm running the balanced outs from the 08 G35 HU to the 6-8, bypassing the bows amp altogether. It clips around 3/4 volume, some songs sooner than others. I'm pretty certain Mark scoped it during tuning. It's like the HU doesn't have a constant voltage output. 
I thought that maybe my nearly depleted battery was causing voltage variations, but it's just the Mosconi 240.2 driving the 3" that's muting. And it's not the amp bc we switched it with the 240.2 on the midbass.


----------



## jel847

On my jvc head unit I get a clipped signal listening to cd around 37on the volume. IPod I have to turn the volume down to about 32
Once I have the head unit maxed I use the volume control on the 6to8 controller or the app.on my phone


----------



## jel847

mikechec9 said:


> I'm running the balanced outs from the 08 G35 HU to the 6-8, bypassing the bows amp altogether. It clips around 3/4 volume, some songs sooner than others. I'm pretty certain Mark scoped it during tuning. It's like the HU doesn't have a constant voltage output.
> I thought that maybe my nearly depleted battery was causing voltage variations, but it's just the Mosconi 240.2 driving the 3" that's muting. And it's not the amp bc we switched it with the 240.2 on the midbass.


That sounds strange. The 6to8 wouldn't just mute one set of outputs. You might have something else going on there. Does it come back on as soon as you lower the volume?


----------



## tonny

The dsp will shut down the out put's when the signal will go in to clipping, or on the input but then all channels will shut down or when there will be clipping on the outputs. 
What you can do if it's only that channels is look to the eq if you have to boost there 
a lot you can also drive it on the clipping, then turn the boost a little bit down or just 
turn down the overall volume off the channels down en turn the gain on you amp up 
to get the right level off output. But watch out for clipping on the amp side.


----------



## jel847

I've only experienced the whole thing muting.


----------



## cobb2819

The comments are correct. It's a full output mute, not channel pairs. You have another issue. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## quality_sound

Yup. All or nothing. I wonder if you're clipping the inputs on that amp and that's making that one amp shut down. 

Try swapping 6to8 outputs and see if the issue moves or not.


----------



## cobb2819

maybe i missed it but what 3" are you running?? That's what you said is on the 240.2, correct?


----------



## mikechec9

cobb2819 said:


> maybe i missed it but what 3" are you running?? That's what you said is on the 240.2, correct?


Yop. It's a prototype designed by Mark for his Melodic Acoustic line. Very similar to the NzA Duo but with smaller hybrid motors on the more sensitive 3", with a more robust midbass that pronounces down to 40 (We have it playing at 55). One 240.2 is on the pair of 3" and one 240.2 is on the 7". 

But yes, it was the amp driving the 3" that was muting.



quality_sound said:


> Yup. All or nothing. I wonder if you're clipping the inputs on that amp and that's making that one amp shut down.
> 
> Try swapping 6to8 outputs and see if the issue moves or not.


Even though they are turned very low as it is, we worked with it a few minutes today and that's exactly what the problem was. The factory head unit to the Matrix to the 6-8 to the 240.2 = a grip of level setting. We turned the gain down a hair, dropped the levels of the 6-8 .5 and no more muting  The stage height dropped and the image is not quite as brilliantly dead on focused, but darn it it's not muting. 

It's gonna take some more fiddling, but I think I can have my cake and eat it too (amplitude and clarity without muting). An aftermarket HU would work wonders, but the '08 g35s (same as g37 ) still doesn't make a dash conversion kit that I can find.

Thanks all a grip for the assistance. I still don't fully respect the muting function, but now I can appreciate the processor. Looks as though everyone knew it couldn't have been the 6-8 muting. Again, thanks a grip.


----------



## jel847

Wouldn't it work better to use the line driver after the 6to8?


----------



## basher8621

Yep. You can do that. Many do.


----------



## cobb2819

jel847 said:


> Wouldn't it work better to use the line driver after the 6to8?


Yup.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## simplicityinsound

I gotta say something here guys...and really I think i am not making anything up...but the fact that we got someone so knowledgeable like Jacob who actually WORKS for ORCA on here to help answer questions to me is very cool. I myself has gotten a lot of questions answered by him. but really, its great to have such easy access to tech support from any manufacturer, and I truly think this is pretty unique among the bigger names in car audio.

so...if i didnt say it before, THANK YOU Jacob


----------



## jel847

simplicityinsound said:


> I gotta say something here guys...and really I think i am not making anything up...but the fact that we got someone so knowledgeable like Jacob who actually WORKS for ORCA on here to help answer questions to me is very cool. I myself has gotten a lot of questions answered by him. but really, its great to have such easy access to tech support from any manufacturer, and I truly think this is pretty unique among the bigger names in car audio.
> 
> so...if i didnt say it before, THANK YOU Jacob


I agree 100% he monitors this very thread closely and has been very helpful to me.


----------



## quality_sound

What I like about him is the answers are short and to the point and never more than one suggestion at a time. MUCH better than reading a novel with 12 things to try.


----------



## mikechec9

jel847 said:


> Wouldn't it work better to use the line driver after the 6to8?


That's exactly where it is. We originally tried the Overdrive after the HU but the 6-8 hated it. So we placed the matrix after the 6-8. My typo.

I'm having some unusual voltage issues that I'm creating a new thread for so I don't junk this one. Muting is occurring less frequently but a bit randomly.


----------



## cobb2819

Thanks guys. What a great couple of posts to see after a short trip on the road. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Offroader5

Guess this is as good a place as any to ask this...

Mosconi says this only pulls .5A @ 12v. Would I even need to worry about fuseing it? I'm planning my wire layout and picking up all the parts and need to know whether I should worry about fuseing such a small amperage. Smallest blade fuse I've come across is 2A.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> Guess this is as good a place as any to ask this...
> 
> Mosconi says this only pulls .5A @ 12v. Would I even need to worry about fuseing it? I'm planning my wire layout and picking up all the parts and need to know whether I should worry about fuseing such a small amperage. Smallest blade fuse I've come across is 2A.


Always fuse any electronic device.


----------



## t3sn4f2

cobb2819 said:


> Always fuse any electronic device.


x2, there's no reason not to. You can't find a blade fuse that small because that isn't the right tool for the job. Look for a low amp inline fuse holder and the proper glass fuse.


----------



## Offroader5

Yeah, normally I do fuse everything. I just didn't want to use an 'ol glass fuse, but I guess I have to.


----------



## octan

A friend of mine made a fuseholder of a 6to8 shell.


----------



## cobb2819

^^^^^^ that is petty freakin cool!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## simplicityinsound

thats badass!


----------



## slowride

I'm in agreement. That's so cool.


----------



## chtaylor71

WOW!!! I want one...


----------



## mulagain

+ 3! Mosconi could (and should) manufacture these. I love the digital readout.


----------



## silkk

Hello,

Not sure I am I able to find this info, but how do you switch between inputs on the DSP? For example, if I have my HU connected through RCA's to the DSP 6to8 and also have my Android smartphone streaming music on Bluetooth, how do I choose between the 2?

I have seen in the DSP AMAS option enables you to have 3 simultaneous connections on Bluetooth: Bluetooth headset, Android app and streaming music.Has anyone tried controlling the DSP by the Android app while streaming music from the same device, same time?

Thanks!


----------



## iScream

Does the UI for this processor have a demo mode so I could play around with it before buying the actual DSP? 

I'm leaning heavily toward a 3sixty.3 right now but the 6to8 sure looks like a cool toy.


----------



## cobb2819

You can download the software and use it stand alone. It does not need a device attached.

http://www.gladen-audio.com/DSP/download/




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

silkk said:


> Hello,
> 
> Not sure I am I able to find this info, but how do you switch between inputs on the DSP? For example, if I have my HU connected through RCA's to the DSP 6to8 and also have my Android smartphone streaming music on Bluetooth, how do I choose between the 2?
> 
> I have seen in the DSP AMAS option enables you to have 3 simultaneous connections on Bluetooth: Bluetooth headset, Android app and streaming music.Has anyone tried controlling the DSP by the Android app while streaming music from the same device, same time?
> 
> Thanks!


The 6to8 auto senses signal. So if you are paired to the AMAS, as soon as you start playing music it switches over. Stop playing music and you're back to head unit signal over RCA. As far as control and streaming, the AMAS will do both ( but no software link for tuning ), so in theory, you should be able to play in the background, while control in the foreground. Haven't really had a chance to dig in and try it, because no one around here uses android devices.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

Hard to believe noboby in T.O. uses Android.

OT, is the Meat Locker BBQ still there on T.O. Blvd.? Haven't been up there in quite a while, but used to have a GF in T.O.


----------



## Schizm

How does the streaming sound? Say off iTunes purchased music from an iPhone

Streaming to my jvc arsenal it sounds like ass. When compared to the iPhone connected by cable


----------



## iScream

cobb2819 said:


> You can download the software and use it stand alone. It does not need a device attached.
> 
> GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thank you. I read every post in this thread but I've been reading so much about processors, and midbass drivers, that my eyes are starting to cross.

Could you please help me understand what the 6to8 will give me for the additional cost over the RF 3sixty.3? 

Can I use my factory HU volume control with the 6to8, without using a digital connection?

It looks like the 3sixty.3 will do what I need but I don't want to end up wishing I had spent a couple hundred extra on the 6to8. Or PS8.


----------



## Mic10is

iScream said:


> Thank you. I read every post in this thread but I've been reading so much about processors, and midbass drivers, that my eyes are starting to cross.
> 
> Could you please help me understand what the 6to8 will give me for the additional cost over the RF 3sixty.3?
> 
> Can I use my factory HU volume control with the 6to8, without using a digital connection?
> 
> It looks like the 3sixty.3 will do what I need but I don't want to end up wishing I had spent a couple hundred extra on the 6to8. Or PS8.


360.3 GUI is nicer than the 6to8 which has one of the worst appearance for a GUI...looks like a Highschool windows 3.1 project.

360.3 and Ps8 are VERY similar. same DSP chip. Arc wrote their own source code for their processor tho and many other upgrades.

360.3 will not allow you to use different slopes or filters on the top or bottom end.

so if you pick a linkwitz 24db HIghpass, you have to use that for the lowpass as well.

the 6to8 allows you pretty infinite flexibility to do what you want with crossover points, slopes on HP LP etc...
fully selection of any eq point by parametric allows a ton of control..

if you havent used parametric then its an adjustment over using graphic but much more powerful


----------



## bbfoto

^Just to be clear, the 360.3 does offer all independent L/R 31-band Parametric EQ (PEQ) on all channels, with adjustable Q and you can select or type any frequency you want (e.g. 1,064Hz) for each band, though the defaults are at the standard 1/3rd Octave intervals.

Mic's wording at the end of his post kind of made it seem to me that the 6-to-8 has PEQ, but the 360.3 does not.

Both do have PEQ.

Included with the 360.3 is a wired Remote with two knobs and 4 LED indicators for each knob (not a text display) that will control Master Volume level or Subwoofer level, and switch between different input Sources and 4 Tuning Presets.

It also includes a Bluetooth Dongle that allows BT Audio Streaming with a compatible device.


----------



## Mic10is

bbfoto said:


> ^Just to be clear, the 360.3 does offer all independent L/R 31-band Parametric EQ (PEQ) on all channels, with adjustable Q and you can select or type any frequency you want (e.g. 1,064Hz) for each band, though the defaults are at the standard 1/3rd Octave intervals.
> 
> Mic's wording at the end of his post kind of made it seem to me that the 6-to-8 has PEQ, but the 360.3 does not.
> 
> Both do have PEQ.


thanks for clarifying

my intent was more to the point of, 6to8 is PEQ, thats it
360.3 and the PS8 are 1/3octave graphic with the option to do parametric


----------



## cobb2819

Schizm said:


> How does the streaming sound? Say off iTunes purchased music from an iPhone
> 
> Steaming to my jvc arsenal it sounds like ass. When compared to the iPhone connected by cable


The streaming with the AMAS is a totally different ball game, high resolution with higher bandwidth transfer rates allows up to 192k/24bit audio. At that point, the file is the limiting factor, not the bt connection. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## quality_sound

Mic10is said:


> thanks for clarifying
> 
> my intent was more to the point of, 6to8 is PEQ, thats it
> 360.3 and the PS8 are 1/3octave graphic with the option to do parametric


More correctly, the PS8 has 1/3 GEQ AND 31 bands of PEQ per output in advanced mode for a total of 62 EQ bands for each of the 8 output channels.


----------



## iScream

quality_sound said:


> More correctly, the PS8 has 1/3 GEQ AND 31 bands of PEQ per output in advanced mode for a total of 62 EQ bands for each of the 8 output channels.


Wow, that's a lot of EQ. 

The 6to8 seems like a pretty awesome piece of hardware but it may be overkill for my simple system with a 3-way front stage and a sub.

I just don't have enough experience to say whether the separate crossover settings for high and low of a bandpass filter will be something I wish I had.

Thanks for the info, guys.


----------



## quality_sound

You'll want to be able to have that function available. It's something you can hear when you're tuning.


----------



## Mic10is

One of those things that isnt "needed" but youll never know the benefits if it isnt available


----------



## Schizm

cobb2819 said:


> The streaming with the AMAS is a totally different ball game, high resolution with higher bandwidth transfer rates allows up to 192k/24bit audio. At that point, the file is the limiting factor, not the bt connection.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Nice! Thank you for the info


----------



## dejanh

Hi everyone,

I'm new here, though I've had my Mosconi 6to8 for over a year now. I just placed an order for the AMAS and decided to do some maintenance on the device while I am waiting for it to arrive, but I ran into a few problems.

1. How do I actually update the firmware on the device itself? My device shipped with 1.21, and all this time I was convinced that the software that you download embeds the firmware update and automatically updates the firmware when connected to the device. With the latest software I am now getting the device to report that it is running firmware 1.9. I am not however convinced that the device really ever had the firmware updated from the original version. I do not see any upload/progress/feedback that firmware is being updated. I just find that each new software release appears to show a higher version of firmware. So, once and for all how do I update the firmware on the DSP? I want to bring it up to whatever is the latest version...

2. Initially I have connected and configured my DSP via a USB connection routed to my cabin. Since I was happy with my configuration I have not touched it in a long time. Now after downloading the latest software and installing it when I connect the USB connector the drivers install but the software is never reporting an active connection to the DSP. The status is permanently saying "not connected". However, if I connect to the device via the Bluetooth dongle I can connect just fine and the connection reports "connected, Firmware 1.9". Why is it that after being able to connect via USB so many times before all of a sudden I cannot connect via USB anymore but the drivers install? Are the Bluetooth and USB connections mutually exclusive, meaning when Bluetooth dongle is installed I cannot connect via USB? Is the software having issues with the OS (I did try both Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 and Windows 8)? The problem is very strange and it really looks like it is a software issue...

Can anyone chime in on these two issues? I would really appreciate some help


----------



## cobb2819

Updating the firmware should help with the USB issues, but when running the AMAS you will need to use the Bluetooth link anyway. Send me a private message with your email address and I will email you the firmware update and instructions to be able to update to 1.44.


----------



## dejanh

cobb2819 said:


> Updating the firmware should help with the USB issues, but when running the AMAS you will need to use the Bluetooth link anyway. Send me a private message with your email address and I will email you the firmware update and instructions to be able to update to 1.44.


PM sent, thanks for the quick response. I may have some more follow up questions but I will reserve those until after I see the FW update instructions and the effect of the FW update on the unit behavior


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> Updating the firmware should help with the USB issues, but when running the AMAS you will need to use the Bluetooth link anyway. Send me a private message with your email address and I will email you the firmware update and instructions to be able to update to 1.44.


I sent you a PM on this as well.



dejanh said:


> PM sent, thanks for the quick response. I may have some more follow up questions but I will reserve those until after I see the FW update instructions and the effect of the FW update on the unit behavior


Great to see another Canadian on here. I would be interested in hearing any issues you have with the FW update - if there are any.


----------



## dejanh

james2266 said:


> Great to see another Canadian on here. I would be interested in hearing any issues you have with the FW update - if there are any.


Let's hope not  I'll post back as soon as I receive the info and load the FW :thumbsup:


----------



## quality_sound

You can't use the USB connection when you have the BT adapter plugged in.


----------



## Schizm

I think Mic10is said earlier in this thread that you cannot connect through USB if your bluetooth dongle is connected.


----------



## dejanh

quality_sound said:


> You can't use the USB connection when you have the BT adapter plugged in.





Schizm said:


> I think Mic10is said earlier in this thread that you cannot connect through USB if your bluetooth dongle is connected.


I read that, but I am not sure that this was definitive. I also seem to recall using USB while I had the Bluetooth dongle plugged in. All that aside, I'm just trying to validate now whether I need to be hard-wired via USB for the FW update or whether I can rely on Bluetooth to do it. I'm inclined towards USB for anything like this, but I do have an issue with the USB which is a bit of a catch-22. I think that it is best that I bring my unit up-to-date first and then report issues, if I still have them


----------



## james2266

quality_sound said:


> You can't use the USB connection when you have the BT adapter plugged in.


My problem is I have never been able to connect via usb with or without the BT dongle plugged in.


----------



## dejanh

james2266 said:


> My problem is I have never been able to connect via usb with or without the BT dongle plugged in.


When did you buy your 6to8?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> My problem is I have never been able to connect via usb with or without the BT dongle plugged in.


Could be a laptop issue. I have had several warranty issues with "unable to connect" and I get it and no problem. They try a different laptop and no problem.


----------



## dejanh

cobb2819 said:


> Could be a laptop issue. I have had several warranty issues with "unable to connect" and I get it and no problem. They try a different laptop and no problem.


I actually think that it was him or someone else that was reporting this issue and I believe that a different laptop was already attempted. Anyway, best to leave commenting on a specific issue to the user who is experiencing it. In my case USB worked, there is no doubt about it, but now I cannot connect with it. I do know though that the software has had it's share of issues over time. At one point in the past it could not even install correctly on Windows 7 unless you used compatibility mode, so I would not put it past the software that the USB drivers could be having issues with newer machines. The differentiation with 32-bit and 64-bit could also be particularly important as could dependencies on the .NET libraries, many of which were deprecated in the last year. Anyway, just some food for thought...

I will post my results following the FW update though.


----------



## james2266

dejanh said:


> I actually think that it was him or someone else that was reporting this issue and I believe that a different laptop was already attempted. Anyway, best to leave commenting on a specific issue to the user who is experiencing it. In my case USB worked, there is no doubt about it, but now I cannot connect with it. I will post my results following the FW update though.


Yes, I was the one that reported that before. I never did try a different laptop as I don't have another - except this Macbook and as far as I know the unit is not compatible with Mac. I had no issues outside of the annoying occasional drop with the BT connection so I just kind of went that way. I had absolutely no issues with connection when I had the Audison Bit One.1 before so I know the usb works on the laptop. Maybe the FW update will help that.


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> Yes, I was the one that reported that before. I never did try a different laptop as I don't have another - except this Macbook and as far as I know the unit is not compatible with Mac. I had no issues outside of the annoying occasional drop with the BT connection so I just kind of went that way. I had absolutely no issues with connection when I had the Audison Bit One.1 before so I know the usb works on the laptop. Maybe the FW update will help that.


I run bootcamp on my Mac and have zero issues. So if you can boot to windows, try that.


----------



## quality_sound

I had an issue once and I removed and reinstalled the 6to8 program and it was fine. I think the driver didn't install correctly. Could be the case here.


----------



## dejanh

Alright, latest firmware 1.44 flashed to the DSP. Here's the feedback both on the process and the results.

1. Follow the process exactly. Keep in mind that the flashing LED is difficult to see and very easy to miss, especially if you are working with a unit that is already mounted. If the transfer is a success at each step it is possible to follow the instructions and just wait for a sufficient amount of time (to be super safe I would recommend waiting a couple of minutes between flashing/programming steps).

2. The software is no longer reading the firmware as "firmware 1.9". Instead it is now correctly (well, mostly correctly) reading it as 1.4 (actual firmware is supposed to be 1.44).

3. The USB works, but I can now confirm that it is mutually exclusive with the Bluetooth dongle. If Bluetooth is disconnected the USB connects fine, and vice-versa. I guess that both devices are using the same addressing port so they cannot work in conjunction.

4. The DSP appears to start up faster (signal on to music) but that could just be me imagining things.

Now to wait for my AMAS to arrive and we'll see how it goes  

Props go to Jacob for his help in getting me the instructions and firmware quickly


----------



## james2266

Ok, I was out getting my amps installed and hooked up my sub for some bottom end. Everything appears to be working using the settings from the last vehicle. I have two major problems right now that I need to get answers to and get fixed. 

First and most important, I can't connect to the 6to8 at all anymore. The BT dongle is not being grabbed onto by the software anymore at all. It just stays in not connected state. The usb STILL does not work. I have not done the update and doubt I can if there is no way to connect to this thing! HELP?...

The second which is a new one for me and really pissing me off too. I get a turn off pop every single time through the sub. This thing was ALWAYS dead quiet in the last vehicle I had it in. What could be causing this to happen this time? Any work arounds?


----------



## james2266

dejanh said:


> Alright, latest firmware 1.44 flashed to the DSP. Here's the feedback both on the process and the results.
> 
> 1. Follow the process exactly. Keep in mind that the flashing LED is difficult to see and very easy to miss, especially if you are working with a unit that is already mounted. If the transfer is a success at each step it is possible to follow the instructions and just wait for a sufficient amount of time (to be super safe I would recommend waiting a couple of minutes between flashing/programming steps).
> 
> 2. The software is no longer reading the firmware as "firmware 1.9". Instead it is now correctly (well, mostly correctly) reading it as 1.4 (actual firmware is supposed to be 1.44).
> 
> 3. The USB works, but I can now confirm that it is mutually exclusive with the Bluetooth dongle. If Bluetooth is disconnected the USB connects fine, and vice-versa. I guess that both devices are using the same addressing port so they cannot work in conjunction.
> 
> 4. The DSP appears to start up faster (signal on to music) but that could just be me imagining things.
> 
> Now to wait for my AMAS to arrive and we'll see how it goes
> 
> Props go to Jacob for his help in getting me the instructions and firmware quickly


Also, how did you do the firmware update? Did you have to do it through BT or USB? Does it have to be activated through the 6to8 software or does the program access it directly?


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> First and most important, I can't connect to the 6to8 at all anymore. The BT dongle is not being grabbed onto by the software anymore at all. It just stays in not connected state. The usb STILL does not work. I have not done the update and doubt I can if there is no way to connect to this thing! HELP?...


Try deleting the Bluetooth device from windows, reboot, and re add the device. Also, make sure the Bluetooth device is plugged in properly with the word Mosconi facing the controller port. 

Also, as mentioned earlier, try uninstalling the software entirely, and do a fresh install with the software available through the download link, and not the software from the cd. 

The firmware update is done once connected to the 6to8 via the software. 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> Try deleting the Bluetooth device from windows, reboot, and re add the device. Also, make sure the Bluetooth device is plugged in properly with the word Mosconi facing the controller port.
> 
> Also, as mentioned earlier, try uninstalling the software entirely, and do a fresh install with the software available through the download link, and not the software from the cd.
> 
> The firmware update is done once connected to the 6to8 via the software.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Ok, I will try that. Doing the BT device reinstall as I type this.

Was the 6to8 software always this large of a file or that slow of a download speed? My laptop is telling me it is going to take 45 mins to download? Hope its worth it. I have never used the software that came with it either.

Any ideas on the new found shutdown pop through the subwoofer that was never there before? Could it be one of the buttons on the 6to8 I might have accidentally activated? It really has me puzzled as this thing was dead quiet before and that was one of its greatest selling points for me coming from the Audison Bit One. Care to explain what the hi-lo buttons are? I assume it switches the input from hi or low level? In this instance can you run some inputs on hi level and some on lo level? Also never figured out what the BTL-SE switch was all about - Auto Sense is written above it. Lastly, what is the EEPROM all about that is beside the USB and under the controller slot? I guess I should of asked all of these a long time ago.


----------



## silkk

As the original thread title is "Mosconi DSP 6to8 pics" I thought some pics with the internals will do no harm, so below some pics with the internals, including the Multi SPDIF board and the AMAS module:


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## cobb2819

The software isn't that large, probably just a slow server connection.

The hi/low buttons are just that, high level or low level. The btl / se switch is for auto on through analog. If you are not running a remote input then use SE, and then the remote in becomes a remote out. If you have a remote turn on from your radio or an ignition/accessory run, then use BTL. The turn off pop sounds like a timing issue with the processor turning off before the amp. 

The eep is an expanded memory module that holds 4 presets and over rides the onboard presets. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bbfoto

LOL, Thanks. Great pics. 

Weird, the solder joints look great on the main board, and not so much on the SPDIF board. :/


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> The software isn't that large, probably just a slow server connection.
> 
> The hi/low buttons are just that, high level or low level. The btl / se switch is for auto on through analog. If you are not running a remote input then use SE, and then the remote in becomes a remote out. If you have a remote turn on from your radio or an ignition/accessory run, then use BTL. The turn off pop sounds like a timing issue with the processor turning off before the amp.
> 
> The eep is an expanded memory module that holds 4 presets and over rides the onboard presets.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for the reasoning on the btl/se switch. I agree that the turn off pop does sound like the processor is turning off before the amp. I thought I had it solved as I had the switch on se. I moved it to btl as I am running a remote from my HU. Unfortunately as I trialed it, it still popped through the sub Do I have the remotes done wrong I wonder. I am splicing into that remote wire right at the processor and running it back to both of my amps. This is the same way I did it before in my last car and had no issues. I will say I never liked that plugin type tho as my Bit One had a remote in wire and a remote out wire. The Mosconi has no remote out wire?... Do I have this all connected right? I am running two amps actually but the one is not powered at the moment - it is connected but no fuse at distro as the speakers they will be eventually powering are not in yet. All in all this has been a very frustrating day. I had hoped to be well into deadening and sealing my doors by now. I did get the new software DL'd and installed and the BT reinstalled once again. Now the laptop is charging as it was almost dead after that download. I will try the processor again once it gets all juiced up again and report back if I was able to get in.


----------



## cobb2819

james2266 said:


> Thanks for the reasoning on the btl/se switch. I agree that the turn off pop does sound like the processor is turning off before the amp. I thought I had it solved as I had the switch on se. I moved it to btl as I am running a remote from my HU. Unfortunately as I trialed it, it still popped through the sub Do I have the remotes done wrong I wonder. I am splicing into that remote wire right at the processor and running it back to both of my amps. This is the same way I did it before in my last car and had no issues. I will say I never liked that plugin type tho as my Bit One had a remote in wire and a remote out wire. The Mosconi has no remote out wire?... Do I have this all connected right? I am running two amps actually but the one is not powered at the moment - it is connected but no fuse at distro as the speakers they will be eventually powering are not in yet. All in all this has been a very frustrating day. I had hoped to be well into deadening and sealing my doors by now. I did get the new software DL'd and installed and the BT reinstalled once again. Now the laptop is charging as it was almost dead after that download. I will try the processor again once it gets all juiced up again and report back if I was able to get in.


The 6to8 (and 4to6) turn the remote in to remote out when using the SE function. Since you're running all 3, I would recommend wiring a relay for your remote turn on. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## quality_sound

Mine works just fine wired like his is. Make sure you have it selected for low level input or it'll pop. Mine did that when I forgot to switch it after testing my OEM HU.


----------



## Mic10is

Se setting is for signal sensing. it will turn on when it senses signal like from OEM source or line level inputs.
if using remote turn on, use BTL


----------



## james2266

quality_sound said:


> Mine works just fine wired like his is. Make sure you have it selected for low level input or it'll pop. Mine did that when I forgot to switch it after testing my OEM HU.


Good to know. I will double check that one of the inputs didn't get pushed in by accident tomorrow. I did check them when I had the seat out checking things out but it wasn't the focus of my attention. 



Mic10is said:


> Se setting is for signal sensing. it will turn on when it senses signal like from OEM source or line level inputs.
> if using remote turn on, use BTL


Yes, I had it on SE at first but now it is on BTL. There was no change in anything it seems for me however. Still have the nasty pop through the sub. Actually it is the only thing that appears to make the sub do much of anything.

I FINALLY got into the software through BT. I cranked the sub gain all the way up and moved the sub cross up to 80 Hz/24 db. I set it up to be controlled through the HU as well on its sub outputs so I could use the hi pass on the rest of the factory speakers. So far I only have the sub powered as no other speaker have been upgraded as of yet. I do have power available for everything once I get to putting in speakers however and all the speaker wires are run to the eventual locations. 

I am really puzzled by the lack of output from the sub once again. This time it is truly pathetic. The damned factory speakers are completely drowning it out even when it is cranked right up. I even cranked the gains all the way to max on the amp (only about half volume on the deck tho) and it still didn't make the Ultimo 12 stand out. If this damned amp is supposed to be putting out 1150 rms that sub should be seriously moving even at half volume in this instant. The only way I could tell it was even on was to touch the cone to feel the vibration. Could there be something wrong with the 5.1k? I think I am going to bring the vehicle down to my installer and see what he thinks about it all. I am tempted to put my Mosconi amp on it and see if it does any better. It is only rated at 340 watts bridged. Should barely move the Ultimo really This is all very frustrating and disappointing after all the hard work I have put into this this weekend. I will also ask my installer about that pop and see what he has to say and talk to him about a possible relay too. 

Thanks for your help guys and I really hope that I get this thing to my liking and soon.


----------



## cobb2819

So you have your sub set to 80hz low pass with 2 12db butter worth? What head unit are you running?


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> So you have your sub set to 80hz low pass with 2 12db butter worth? What head unit are you running?


Yes, 2 12 db butterworth at 80 Hz. Another thing I have been told is that makes it actually a 24 db Linkwitz Reily crossover. Is this the case in this processor? What would happen if I stacked 2 12 db L-R filters then? 

My HU is a Pioneer Z110BT with 120 firmware. I turned on the HPF to 63 Hz and turned the sub on with as high a cross as I could get - I think that is 120 Hz only tho.


----------



## cobb2819

I would honestly turn off the crossover at the head unit. You have a processor, no need for the head unit crossovers. 

Yes, two butterworth is a l-r. Two l-r is something weird.


----------



## quality_sound

He can't. His second amp isn't running yet so he needs the HU crossover to filter his mains.


----------



## cobb2819

Oh, thought he said he was running an Audison 5.1k


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dejanh

Alright, as a thank you for the help I got here a couple of weeks ago and in preparation for my AMAS module which is arriving in a week or so I decided to finally write an app for the Mosconi DSP 6to8 for the new BlackBerry 10 platform (my platform of choice). So far only the Z10 version is ready and will be published in the BlackBerry World shortly. I will also talk to Mosconi/Gladen about publishing it on their sites too (well, linking to BlackBerry World that is once the app is approved).

In the meantime if anyone would like to get their hands on the app I can provide it over PM, but you will need to know how to side-load.

Also, the Q10 version will follow shortly, I just need to figure out what is involved in the conversion.

Some of the features of my app:

Master volume, sub volume (ch. 7+8 only), balance, fader, and preset control
Support for multiple device profiles for those that have more than one DSP (only one device can be controlled at a time)
Off-line mode allowing you to select the settings and preset that you wish to apply once you connect to the DSP
Active frame mode displaying the connection status of the device
In-app online/off-line notification bar

Some "limitations" (depending on how you look at things):

At first launch the app will apply default volume, balance, and fader settings to the device, though it will not apply a preset setting in case you have a specific preset set. Once you set the settings for the first time the app will then continue to use your specific settings configured in the app. I do not read the current settings from the DSP as I find that function is a hit-and-miss so far and really provides no benefit over how the current implementation is done.
I only allow cutting master volume by -30dB max (vs. full -127dB). I found that beyond that the volume settings were not relevant on my device so that is how I targeted it and I liked the extra granular control that a smaller range offered me. If feedback dictates that this range should be expanded I can always implement changes to this.

Again, this is an app for the Mosconi DSP 6to8 for BlackBerry 10. Sorry iPhone boys, but this one is never coming to you (Apple limitations).

Oh and, I forgot to mention that *the app will be free*. I will however probably set up a donation link for anyone who may wish to donate to support my future app development endeavors  Cheers!


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> I would honestly turn off the crossover at the head unit. You have a processor, no need for the head unit crossovers.
> 
> Yes, two butterworth is a l-r. Two l-r is something weird.


Yes, I agree totally but I have no other speakers in the vehicle yet and need to find a way to control the low frequencies somewhat in the factory door speakers.



quality_sound said:


> He can't. His second amp isn't running yet so he needs the HU crossover to filter his mains.


Everything is hooked up and ready to go but I need to get speakers in and sound deadening done first.



cobb2819 said:


> Oh, thought he said he was running an Audison 5.1k
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes, I have the 5.1k but I've only got the sub channel active currently. Have to build the apillars out for the Scanspeak midrange/tweets yet. First, I have to figure out why the sub is so anemic off this amp. I am really starting to think something is wrong with it I am going to try putting the Mosconi amp on the sub and see how it does. Should be fairly easy to do. That is supposed to put out about 1/3 the power bridged so if it makes the sub hit harder I am going to be pissed because the Audison is not cutting it for sure. Will be talking to my installer guy today.


----------



## cobb2819

I would still try and turn off all crossovers, if only for a couple of minutes to rule out cross wiring.


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> I would still try and turn off all crossovers, if only for a couple of minutes to rule out cross wiring.


'cross wiring'? You got me on that term. Anyways, I think I did have it with no crossovers before. Well, I guess maybe I didn't as I think I always had one on in the 6to8. I will try it with absolutely no crossovers then. Not like it will hurt a sub at all I am still going to try it on the Mosconi 120.4 amp and see what kind of output I get. It will help me at least a tiny bit to see if there is a problem with the Audison.


----------



## cobb2819

Just to make sure there are not RCAs crossed and you're setting a bandpass on your sub, since you are using headunit and DSP crossovers.


----------



## james2266

cobb2819 said:


> Just to make sure there are not RCAs crossed and you're setting a bandpass on your sub, since you are using headunit and DSP crossovers.



Ah, I see what you mean now. I had another thought just a min ago. I did not put the HU into the vehicle so I did not hook up the rca's on that side. I now am wondering if the rca's are all crossed up between the HU and processor. That could most definitely have an effect on output on the sub. I will check that first hand.


----------



## james2266

james2266 said:


> Ah, I see what you mean now. I had another thought just a min ago. I did not put the HU into the vehicle so I did not hook up the rca's on that side. I now am wondering if the rca's are all crossed up between the HU and processor. That could most definitely have an effect on output on the sub. I will check that first hand.


Yep, that's exactly what happened. Once I found the sub rca, the sub sounds as before. I still want more output but it is most definitely back once again. I think my box is too small tho. I plan on making a new slightly larger one with way more bracing inside as well. Yet another thing on the to-do list. At least now I can get to doing the doors soon. Still need to get that turn off thump solved however. I am going to chat with my installer guy on that. Oh, need to check those hi-lo push buttons on the 6to8 first - sure hope that is all it is.


----------



## james2266

My installer agreed with you totally on the relay. He also expressed concern that I could have blown the turn on circuit at the deck with having the draw of three units (2 amps and processor). We are going to put in a relay and a time delay trigger to solve the issue. I am also going to get them to mount my 8 inch Morels at the same time. I know I could do it but time is a little limited and they do such a great job and it really isn't too expensive. Besides I am going to be more than busy enough deadening the doors before then and building a new sub box. I also have to get around to the apillars someday too. I need a vacation.


----------



## quality_sound

You need a new installer. Anything on the planet should be able to turn on 3 pieces. There is almost no current needed to turn electronics on. Also, the 6to8 has a built-in relay so that's a non-issue.


----------



## cobb2819

quality_sound said:


> You need a new installer. Anything on the planet should be able to turn on 3 pieces. There is almost no current needed to turn electronics on. Also, the 6to8 has a built-in relay so that's a non-issue.


Built in relay only matters on SE, not BTL. I've seen head unit outputs wig out when trying to run too many devices. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## quality_sound

I know when it matters, I was just letting him know. 

If your HU can't support three devices then you need a HU.


----------



## james2266

quality_sound said:


> I know when it matters, I was just letting him know.
> 
> If your HU can't support three devices then you need a HU.


I totally trust my installer. His partner is the Audison rep for North America. I am alot less worried about that remote load doing damage to the head than I am with the turn off thump damaging my sub possibly - tweeters could blow with that I think. Thank god I don't have my Scan Illums hooked up yet. Anyways, I pulled the sub box out and took the fuse out of distro until the relay gets put in. 

I got one door done today too. Probably won't have time until the weekend for the driver's door now.


----------



## bbfoto

Adding a relay won't hurt anything, and he'll be set if he decides to add more devices down the line...like we all tend to do.  Just use a relay socket, make it easily accessible, and keep a spare handy. In the last several years I've had an unusual amount of even good-quality relays fail. They must have cut mfg cost & quality, because I never used to have this problem.

What good brand/type of relays are you guys using these days?


----------



## james2266

bbfoto said:


> Adding a relay won't hurt anything, and he'll be set if he decides to add more devices down the line...like we all tend to do.  Just use a relay socket, make it easily accessible, and keep a spare handy. In the last several years I've had an unusual amount of even good-quality relays fail. They must have cut mfg cost & quality, because I never used to have this problem.
> 
> What good brand/type of relays are you guys using these days?


I have no idea what brand they will use. I am getting my shop to do the work on that. I actually get them to do most of my more serious electrical work. They know what they are doing and then if something goes wrong, they will fix it no questions. Gives me peace of mind but it comes at a bit of a cost. Worth it for me tho.


----------



## james2266

I just wanted to state that the turn off pop has been fixed now and the 6to8 is now, once again, back to being dead silent at all times (noise wise). It was all caused by a wiring mistake at the head unit. The constant power for the unit was accidently hooked to ignition power. They fixed that free of charge. I didn't need the turn off delay but they did put in the relay for the amps/processor as that is just a safe procedure to do. I have run into another interesting thing but I do think I might know what is causing it. The sub channel on my Audison amp was not getting enough gain to it. I have a feeling I will have to adjust the gain settings on the 6to8. I didn't think I would as everything is the same equipment wise as the last vehicle. It is a different vehicle however so maybe things do need to be adjusted there? I will find out after work tonight.


----------



## BlueAc

mikechec9 said:


> That's exactly where it is. We originally tried the Overdrive after the HU but the 6-8 hated it. So we placed the matrix after the 6-8. My typo.
> 
> I'm having some unusual voltage issues that I'm creating a new thread for so I don't junk this one. Muting is occurring less frequently but a bit randomly.





cobb2819 said:


> Turn the input sensitivity down and retune, and scope your sources output and find out if its clipping at any point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


So the line driver is supposed to be after the 6 to 8? The way my car is setup is the Factory TL Head Unit >>> RF BLD >>> 6 to 8 >>> JL Amps. Here's my problem, may factory radio goes up to 40. My installer set the levels on the line driver and 6 to 8, now when I play music it mutes around 31 to 32. So does this mean the levels on the line driver or 6 to 8 are to high or could it be both? Or is that just the highest I can turn it up, bc it's not very loud. Last question how could my line driver be moved after the processor if it only has 1 set of inputs/outputs.


----------



## cobb2819

BlueAc said:


> So the line driver is supposed to be after the 6 to 8? The way my car is setup is the Factory TL Head Unit >>> RF BLD >>> 6 to 8 >>> JL Amps. Here's my problem, may factory radio goes up to 40. My installer set the levels on the line driver and 6 to 8, now when I play music it mutes around 31 to 32. So does this mean the levels on the line driver or 6 to 8 are to high or could it be both? Or is that just the highest I can turn it up, bc it's not very loud. Last question how could my line driver be moved after the processor if it only has 1 set of inputs/outputs.


It's over voltage into the 6to8. The line driver in your case is to fix a noise issue so it needs to be in front of the 6to8; however, the input gains on the 6to8 and the output gain on the line driver need to be adjusted to stop the automute circuit from activating.


----------



## BlueAc

cobb2819 said:


> It's over voltage into the 6to8. The line driver in your case is to fix a noise issue so it needs to be in front of the 6to8; however, the input gains on the 6to8 and the output gain on the line driver need to be adjusted to stop the automute circuit from activating.


Thanks! Problem solved.


----------



## palldat

So I have had my 6to8 w/ bt for a few weeks now and my AMAS and BT for a week. I was just looking at the website and it states that the AMAS and BY can also control the 6to8. Does that mean that I don't need the bt dongle?

I was also wondering why the Android app has the volume and the sub at max (0db)? When I connect with my phone the volume level is super loud and when I do maybe 2 or 3 clicks down it is too low to keep the signal and it switches to the hu.

Where can i get info on the proper settings to connection?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> So I have had my 6to8 w/ bt for a few weeks now and my AMAS and BT for a week. I was just looking at the website and it states that the AMAS and BY can also control the 6to8. Does that mean that I don't need the bt dongle?
> 
> I was also wondering why the Android app has the volume and the sub at max (0db)? When I connect with my phone the volume level is super loud and when I do maybe 2 or 3 clicks down it is too low to keep the signal and it switches to the hu.
> 
> Where can i get info on the proper settings to connection?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


As for the control through AMAS, it works for app control, but I still recommend using the bt dongle for programming. I have been playing with this lately, and will keep you all up to date if things change. We know what you're doing now works, and it's stable, so I'd say keep doing it. 

As for the app levels, it is because they are attenuation not volume. So they are designed to turn down full volume, not actually function as a traditional volume. 

To address the phone vol sensitivity, you need to adjust the slider in the aux optical tab of the mixer to allow for a lower signal trigger so you can turn down the phone and still trigger the sp-Dif multi. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> I was also wondering why the Android app has the volume and the sub at max (0db)? When I connect with my phone the volume level is super loud and when I do maybe 2 or 3 clicks down it is too low to keep the signal and it switches to the hu.


Also...if you are only using the digital input card for the AMAS, then you can also adjust the mixer % down to counter the high volume issue when streaming audio via the AMAS.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## palldat

Thanks for the prompt response. I will try that out this week regarding the mixer. I will also play with the app more to see how I can use it. I was trying to not get the controller but I may need to just for ease.


----------



## silkk

Just wanted to ask you, the users of DSP6to8 with the optional AMAS module, how does the SQ (Bluetooth streaming) compare to the usual HU's from the likes of Pioneer, Clarion, etc.? Is the AMAS in the same league with the best CD HU players on the market today (DEH-80PRS, for example)?


----------



## cobb2819

silkk said:


> Just wanted to ask you, the users of DSP6to8 with the optional AMAS module, how does the SQ (Bluetooth streaming) compare to the usual HU's from the likes of Pioneer, Clarion, etc.? Is the AMAS in the same league with the best CD HU players on the market today (DEH-80PRS, for example)?


Personally the AMAS is far above Bluetooth Streaming on head units. All technical aspects aside (high resolution EDR and higher bitrate), which DAC would you want to be doing the work, the head unit DAC or the DSP DAC? When using a great audio file, I can tell you that the AMAS sounds just as good (better when playing high resolution) as my CDA-7949 using the optical out to the SP-Dif input.


----------



## silkk

Actually, I have an OEM navigation unit (China stuff) which is as bad as a navigation of this sort can be. I was almost sure the AMAS is better than the Bluetooth streaming option of the HU's, but I was trying to find out how does it compare to a CD played through a respectable HU (when comparing standard WAV/FLAC resolution files streamed by AMAsS with CD tracks played through a HU, of course). I will be using the DSP 6to8 with my Samsung smartphone, streaming through Bluetooth. So far, I have been only able to listen to a Clarion DXZ935 with audio CD within my current setup, which I found pretty impressive from a SQ perspective.


----------



## tonny

I've tested the amas module in my car next to my clarion hxd2 connected with a 
digital coax cable to the 6to8, quality wise it's about the same some differences 
but nothing big. 
The hxd2 is the best head unit tested in my car compared to the alpine f1 and some 
others. 

But when compared in another car next to a alpine cd head unit connected with a rca 
cable to the 6to8 the difference was really big! The amas streaming was way better! 

This was tested with aiff lossless file's on my iPhone. 

The quality can even be better if you can stream from a pc with the right software then 
the sq can even improved! I also tested that with my macbook pro against my iPhone.


----------



## Zuber

Hi guys,

To begin with I am a total noob in soundtweaking though I love clear and loud music.

I found this forum after spending time at google. And since you guys seem to be quite experienced I was hoping for some help of you!

I am driving a BMW 320D E90 car, European model. It had only 4 midrange speakers aswell as 2 midwoofers.

Now I have upgraded those to the "Gladen 200 BMW" kit. Including tweets and Im running them at a 4-ch DLS amp aswell a 12 inch subwoofer running at a JL Audio amp.

Also I've now bought this precious DSP 6to8. But I have no idea about how to tweaking it to sound some more decent. 

Could anyone of you, please, help me to set up a good file or tell me how to use this software with some good coordinates? I'll be really happy for your help!

Edit: Forgot to tell that my tweets are linked from the midranges via the crossover that came with it...

Regards
Zuber:blush:


----------



## jel847

Something strange.
I never use the fader or balance on my controller or the app but I decided to play with it the other day. Left and right balance was backwards on the app and the controller.
I quickly looked at the wiring and everything appeared in order.
I installed a test disc and played the channel verification track and it was normal.
Is the 6to8 just backwards?


----------



## jel847

I checked the balance control on the head unit and is normal. Not a big deal as I don't use the balance but I find it strange that the 6to8 backwards 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mic10is

jel847 said:


> I checked the balance control on the head unit and is normal. Not a big deal as I don't use the balance but I find it strange that the 6to8 backwards
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


Ive tuned a few 6to8 where all the sudden it seems backwards. and then you check everything and its "normal" again


----------



## jel847

It's strange how the head unit is correct, the dsp is backwards and the output at the amps is correct.
Very strange


----------



## fast94tracer

Does anyone know the dimensions of the 6to8?
thanks

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## cobb2819

fast94tracer said:


> Does anyone know the dimensions of the 6to8?
> thanks
> 
> I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


Including the mounting feet, 150mm x 125mm x 40mm.


----------



## fast94tracer

OK thanks

I don't drive fast I fly low!!!


----------



## tonny

jel847 said:


> It's strange how the head unit is correct, the dsp is backwards and the output at the amps is correct.
> Very strange


You have proberly have the left and right input connections and out put 
connections connected the wrong way, so turn the left and right rca's 
on the dsp on the input and output side.


----------



## cobb2819

tonny said:


> You have proberly have the left and right input connections and output connections connected the wrong way, so turn the left and right rca's on the dsp on the input and output side.


That's what I was thinking. I wonder what it's doing to time alignment.


----------



## jel847

I don't know everything seems in order. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## roduk

Hi guys, a couple of questions - 

I have a Mcintosh MX5000 and MDA5000 DAC - the HU transport is connected to the DAC via a Digital Coaxial cable, and then the DACs' analogue signal feeds back to the HU (To control the volume) by RCA leads...

If I get a 6to8 and the SPDIF MULTi board can I put the DSP in-between the HU and DAC??

HU (Digital Coaxial out) - 6to8 (Digital Coaxial In, then out after processing) - MDA5000 (Digital Coaxial in)

Then back out of the DAC as normal to analogue RCA's??? If so, then I can use the 6to8 for TA and EQ etc whilst still using the MDA5000 as the DAC... maybe a perfect system!

Secondly, if this is possible, can you assign the Digital Coaxial out to certain channels?

Thirdly, I have another source which I use in the car (RAL 1648pi connected to iPad) which has optical digital out too - Can I also connect this as another second input into the SPDIF MULTI board? If so, how are these two sources switchable?

Cheers


----------



## cobb2819

roduk said:


> Hi guys, a couple of questions -
> 
> I have a Mcintosh MX5000 and MDA5000 DAC - the HU transport is connected to the DAC via a Digital Coaxial cable, and then the DACs' analogue signal feeds back to the HU (To control the volume) by RCA leads...
> 
> If I get a 6to8 and the SPDIF MULTi board can I put the DSP in-between the HU and DAC??
> 
> HU (Digital Coaxial out) - 6to8 (Digital Coaxial In, then out after processing) - MDA5000 (Digital Coaxial in)
> 
> Then back out of the DAC as normal to analogue RCA's??? If so, then I can use the 6to8 for TA and EQ etc whilst still using the MDA5000 as the DAC... maybe a perfect system!
> 
> Secondly, if this is possible, can you assign the Digital Coaxial out to certain channels?
> 
> Thirdly, I have another source which I use in the car (RAL 1648pi connected to iPad) which has optical digital out too - Can I also connect this as another second input into the SPDIF MULTI board? If so, how are these two sources switchable?
> 
> Cheers


I'll answer out of order, and then I need to ask a question. 

The SP-Dif Multi Digital Board itself can be assigned to certain channels. But those channel assignments will be the same for Optical, Coax, and AMAS.

Yes you can connect your secondary optical device. The SP-Dif Multi Board is signal sensing. If you are playing music on the Coax input, and want to switch to the optical, you pause the coax source, press play on the ipad, and it switches over. 

Now, for my question. Is the Coax output of your radio fixed or variable? The reason I ask this is that it would make more sense to replace your DAC with ours. Use the Head Unit's Digital Coax SP-Dif to feed the 6to8, and then use the 6to8 straight to the amps. Also...another way to look at it, is that if the Coax is fixed output, you can run the digital coax and a set of analog RCA cables to the 6to8, and use the analog output of your radio to control the volume of the 6to8.


----------



## tonny

Or just use the mx5000 with a coax input to the 6to8 and connect the tablet with the 
amas module to the 6to8 that's the best solution to get the digital audio from the tablet 
to the 6to8! Then for the volume control use the controller. 

i've tested with the coax output but did not get that to work...


----------



## roduk

So with a fixed coaxial output from the HU (Yes the mx5000s Coaxial output is fixed) and a set of RCAs from the HU I can control the Coax volume output on the 6to8??

I have three digital sources in total 

1) HU - Volume controlled RCAs. Also a fixed digital coax output which is usually used to feed the external DAC..
2) MC5000 cd changer - fixed digital coax output (Usually put into the HU into its digital output socket which is internally switchable from input/output)
3) Ipad - Digital coax or Optical, fixed. 

So how would you go about connecting all of these upto the 6to8?


----------



## tonny

You would have to see what you want to connect as you only have 1 coax input on the 
6to8, I would connect the mx5000 to that and the ipad to the optical input. 
But I think for the volume control for the Ipad you need to have the controller for the 
volume control.


----------



## roduk

Thanks Tonny 

I thought with the SP-DIF card you get two Coax inputs??


----------



## tonny

One input and 1 output, and 2 optical inputs and 1 optical output.


----------



## roduk

Aha, ok. 

I could connect the ipad and changer optically and the HU via coax then. 

If I do that is it still music sensing and would I be able to get the volume on the HU to work?


----------



## tonny

The volume control trough the rca cable's only work when you send the same signal 
in with it as played trough the optical/coax cable. 
I've played with the volume control trough the rca cable when I did use a optical 
input, it worked but not great, there was a delay in it before the volume was changed 
on the dsp and sometime's when you have a song which start's on low volume and 
later there is more volume it changes the volume trough out the number... when you 
don't touch the volume control. 
That's why I'am using the mosconi controller now which works perfect for me! 
I took the volume knob out the controller and mounted that one on the handbrake lever together with the remote off my clarion that way I can control everything form one place.


----------



## roduk

Sweet answer, thanks Tonny


----------



## file audio

I WANT A 6TO8 im i really dont know wich want to buy.. bit ten bit one.jbl ms8.. arc audio ps8. Eally confused. Money is a concern here.. saving right now


----------



## silkk

It seems the 6to8 is quite tricky when it comes to Bluetooth connectivity. First of all, I am using a Samsung Galaxy S2 (GT-i9100) - international version. The drivers embedded (actually, the Samsung Bluetooth library stack for Bluetooth) are very poor, as they down sample the signal and reconvert it using a proprietary algorithm. I had to tweak the phone original firmware just to end up installing a tweaked non-official firmware to allow me a "clean" maximum bitrate of 48kHz. Otherwise, with the official FW, the highs were distorted, harsh and I had a very present echo from the mid-bass speakers (that didn't occur when playing music from any other sources, e.g: CD, radio, USB stick, etc.). The only annoying problem now remains the Bluetooth connectivity. Even though the sensitivity is set at 90% (as mentioned earlier in the thread by cobb2819), and DSP_6to8 device connects instantly when activating the Bluetooth option on the phone, it loses connectivity (music signal lost) especially when skipping from one track to another or when choosing to play another file from different folder. Also, when the phone receives an incoming call, it is not always that I get the signal passed to my speakers when switching from music streaming to the call. Any suggestions on how to address this?

PS: it seems like the Bluetooth high resolution streaming (24-bit/192kHz) is currently available only from newly launched LG G2 phone, but I am not sure if the A2DP+EDR profile of the DSP 6to8 can support this (as I guess it is only limited to a 3MB/s).


----------



## cobb2819

silkk said:


> It seems the 6to8 is quite tricky when it comes to Bluetooth connectivity. First of all, I am using a Samsung Galaxy S2 (GT-i9100) - international version. The drivers embedded (actually, the Samsung Bluetooth library stack for Bluetooth) are very poor, as they down sample the signal and reconvert it using a proprietary algorithm. I had to tweak the phone original firmware just to end up installing a tweaked non-official firmware to allow me a "clean" maximum bitrate of 48kHz. Otherwise, with the official FW, the highs were distorted, harsh and I had a very present echo from the mid-bass speakers (that didn't occur when playing music from any other sources, e.g: CD, radio, USB stick, etc.). The only annoying problem now remains the Bluetooth connectivity. Even though the sensitivity is set at 90% (as mentioned earlier in the thread by cobb2819), and DSP_6to8 device connects instantly when activating the Bluetooth option on the phone, it loses connectivity (music signal lost) especially when skipping from one track to another or when choosing to play another file from different folder. Also, when the phone receives an incoming call, it is not always that I get the signal passed to my speakers when switching from music streaming to the call. Any suggestions on how to address this?
> 
> PS: it seems like the Bluetooth high resolution streaming (24-bit/192kHz) is currently available only from newly launched LG G2 phone, but I am not sure if the A2DP+EDR profile of the DSP 6to8 can support this (as I guess it is only limited to a 3MB/s).


Im curious when you say that you do not get the signal passed to your speaker on an incoming call. The AMAS out of the box is not intended to play phone calls though your speakers. You will need the MOS Micro (Handsfree microphone) and the proper setup. When receiving a call, the AMAS should mute the audio and you use our phone like normal. 

As for the losing audio signal, adjust the slider on the AUX Optical tab. Where is the 6to8 located in relation to the phone, did you use the extension cable to move the antenna closer to the drivers position?


----------



## silkk

Of course, I am using the MOS Micro, connected through AUX 6, as indicated in its manual - with the siganl sensitivity adjusted to almost maximum.The AMAS is muting the audio when receiving a call, but I am not always able to hear what the caller is talking (neither he is able to hear me), so this relates to a connectivity issue (a handshake issue, like it was the case some years ago between HDMI connected equipment). The slider in the AUX Optical tab is set to 90% sensitivity.The DSP is located on the back of my rear seats (in the trunk), but the AMAS antenna is located between front and rear seats, and when connected to the phone located on the dash, the signal is received at least 8 meters (26 ft.) from the car, as tested by me - so definitely not a signal issue, but a handshake one. What devices do you use for Bluetooth streaming, actually?


----------



## palldat

What is the best option for me? I have the 6 outputs from my radio. Should I use all including the sub to the 6to8 or just 2 channels out of head and output everything from the 6to8 to the amp?


----------



## cobb2819

silkk said:


> Of course, I am using the MOS Micro, connected through AUX 6, as indicated in its manual - with the siganl sensitivity adjusted to almost maximum.The AMAS is muting the audio when receiving a call, but I am not always able to hear what the caller is talking (neither he is able to hear me), so this relates to a connectivity issue (a handshake issue, like it was the case some years ago between HDMI connected equipment). The slider in the AUX Optical tab is set to 90% sensitivity.The DSP is located on the back of my rear seats (in the trunk), but the AMAS antenna is located between front and rear seats, and when connected to the phone located on the dash, the signal is received at least 8 meters (26 ft.) from the car, as tested by me - so definitely not a signal issue, but a handshake one. What devices do you use for Bluetooth streaming, actually?


I use an iPhone and an iPad and have no connection issues at all. All calls work perfectly, and I never loose a BT connection. I drove 6 hours today non stop and did not drop connection at all with my iPad.


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> What is the best option for me? I have the 6 outputs from my radio. Should I use all including the sub to the 6to8 or just 2 channels out of head and output everything from the 6to8 to the amp?


are you trying to retain fader and sub control from the pioneer unit? if so then feed the 6to8 all 6.


----------



## palldat

Well...I think so. Atleast sub control. I will probably switch from headunit to some type of digital player in the future (phone, android tablet, flac player).

On another like topic...trying to determine best way to setup the mixer on 6to8. Also how to determine if the sensitivity is set correct for hu and phone through bt.


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Well...I think so. Atleast sub control. I will probably switch from headunit to some type of digital player in the future (phone, android tablet, flac player).
> 
> On another like topic...trying to determine best way to setup the mixer on 6to8. Also how to determine if the sensitivity is set correct for hu and phone through bt.


Sub control will require a set of RCAs for the Sub output, so that's at least front and sub. 

As for sensitivity, are you talking about the Aux Optical trigger? And you have the SP-Dif and AMAS I assume?


----------



## palldat

Yeah i thought so on the connections....if i go active will I need to use all of the connections?

Yes I got the unit from JT...had a bad BT module and you guys got it sorted out quick for me.


----------



## silkk

cobb2819 said:


> I use an iPhone and an iPad and have no connection issues at all. All calls work perfectly, and I never loose a BT connection. I drove 6 hours today non stop and did not drop connection at all with my iPad.


What about the sound quality?How would you compare the BT streaming to an audio CD from a good HU?In the first instance, streaming from my Samsung Galaxy SII was a no-go, given the distorted highs and the echo from the mid-bass.I found out this was due to the resampling the software installed on the phone applied in order to shrink the data package sent over Bluetooth, so I had to go with a custom FW for the phone, but the sound is still somehow "metallic", lacking some of the "warmth" of a good CD HU.


----------



## cobb2819

silkk said:


> What about the sound quality?How would you compare the BT streaming to an audio CD from a good HU?In the first instance, streaming from my Samsung Galaxy SII was a no-go, given the distorted highs and the echo from the mid-bass.I found out this was due to the resampling the software installed on the phone applied in order to shrink the data package sent over Bluetooth, so I had to go with a custom FW for the phone, but the sound is still somehow "metallic", lacking some of the "warmth" of a good CD HU.


I'm running a CDA-7949 via optical, and I believe the sound quality to be better with the AMAS. I also only stream high resolution audio files, using the FLAC player app, so that might be a part of it.


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Yeah i thought so on the connections....if i go active will I need to use all of the connections?
> 
> Yes I got the unit from JT...had a bad BT module and you guys got it sorted out quick for me.


Oh yeah, it was a bad SP-Dif Multi Board. I still need to take a closer look at it, but that AMAS in your unit is still the original one. 

As for the connections relating to active, no.


----------



## palldat

Is there an updated amas board? Is the flac app for ios available for Android?


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Is there an updated amas board? Is the flac app for ios available for Android?


There is no newer version of the AMAS. And as for what is available for Android, just check your app store.


----------



## silkk

Problem is that nevertheless high-res FLAC files, the Bluetooth protocol involves a resampling of all files to 48kHz (best case scenario - as Samsung uses a SMC codec that effectively chopped the highs), so 96 or 192kHz are pretty much useless with current hardware.The only device capable of direct rendering 24/192kHz files seems to be the recently launched LG G2 smartphone. PS: I am using only FLAC files with the AMAS, played through PowerAmp.Other good player alternatives for Android are Neutron or GoneMAD music players


----------



## t3sn4f2

FYI, the 6to8 uses a high quality sample rate converter that converts all sample rates to its native 48kHz. Like every other processor on the market now and in the past.


----------



## silkk

Moreover, A2DP has a maximum available bandwidth of 768 kbps (vs. the CD's 1.411-Mbps bandwidth). Problem is with the compression method applied by the smartphone/tablet manufacturers. The the SBC (smart-bit-rate-control) compression algorithm used bu Samsung in its Galaxy SII smartphone, for example, has clearly its flaws, audible in the form echo (caused by delay) and muddled/distorted highs.

A worthwhile option nowdays is the apt-X compression algorithm (not supported by teh AMAS, which is an A2DP+EDR capable device), which is matching uncompressed CD quality, offers a dynamic range greater than 92 dB and runs at 384 kbps. The overall framework of apt-X ensures a robust connection, which enables optimization of the overall Bluetooth system latency. The technology can also synchronize within 3 msec on start-up or in response to a dropout, and the algorithmic coding delay is less than 2 msec to ensure real-time connections.

PS: the downsample to 48kHz that 6to8 applies, makes the high-res FLAC files usage pretty useless, the way I see it. Moreover, building on my home HiFi experience, resample methods do not bring anything good to the table (on the contrary), but there are definitely far more problematic issues with car acoustics to bother with this tiny one, of course


----------



## tonny

As far as I know the dsp works up to 96khz, and with my Iphone it works perfect! 
Not a single mis play or so, just put in the module and connect the phone and working! 

It's sounding better then most head unit's almost as good as my Clarion hxd2 connected 
with a coax cable... 

I think it's the phone how brings the ****.... 
Did anyone test different phone's what sounds best?


----------



## buzzatron

Just wondering if there was a fix for the values coming up as zero for presets?
Makes me nervous tuning.


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> Just wondering if there was a fix for the values coming up as zero for presets?
> Makes me nervous tuning.


Um...What? Care to explain a little more in depth what you're talking about?


----------



## Mic10is

I think what he may be asking is when you 1st bring up the software, it loads whatever setting you are on but all the Values are 0. so you really have no idea what the settings are now or previously.
you have to find the file and load the actual file to see the values


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> I think what he may be asking is when you 1st bring up the software, it loads whatever setting you are on but all the Values are 0. so you really have no idea what the settings are now or previously.
> you have to find the file and load the actual file to see the values


When you first connect to the DSP just use the option of "transfer data to console". It pulls all the info off of the DSP and you're ready to go.


----------



## buzzatron

yaaaaa since my original tune was done at the shop i didnt have the orig file and it loaded to 0.s... then i went ahead and started fiddling and saving.... i guess i will have to start from scratch again. Thanks!


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> yaaaaa since my original tune was done at the shop i didnt have the orig file and it loaded to 0.s... then i went ahead and started fiddling and saving.... i guess i will have to start from scratch again. Thanks!


You did start from scratch, and then fiddled a bit. If you had copied data to console, you would not have erased what the shop did.


----------



## buzzatron

cobb2819 said:


> You did start from scratch, and then fiddled a bit. If you had copied data to console, you would not have erased what the shop did.


I copy data to console everytime. Like the user said above, the values show zero unless you load the specific file to the specific preset. So what has happened is I have "stacked" presets. I think I should be able to work thru it. Only problem is that I am faced with a geographical challenge as the shop I used is a four hour drive, 2 hour ferry and then another 1 hour drive away . Diy pro tune coming up from a first time active/dsp user.


----------



## DeanE10

did you check all 4 presets? Maybe the shop used preset #2 or #4? This never happened to me before is why I am asking


----------



## buzzatron

DeanE10 said:


> did you check all 4 presets? Maybe the shop used preset #2 or #4? This never happened to me before is why I am asking


Yes. i have checked them all. bit bummed out. however, i will chalk this up to operator error... i should be able to have the shop email me the file and start from there. 

Beautiful build on the dodge btw! Very impressive.


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> I copy data to console everytime. Like the user said above, the values show zero unless you load the specific file to the specific preset. So what has happened is I have "stacked" presets. I think I should be able to work thru it. Only problem is that I am faced with a geographical challenge as the shop I used is a four hour drive, 2 hour ferry and then another 1 hour drive away . Diy pro tune coming up from a first time active/dsp user.


What Software version is on your computer and Firmware version is on the DSP?


----------



## cobb2819

DeanE10 said:


> did you check all 4 presets? Maybe the shop used preset #2 or #4? This never happened to me before is why I am asking


I'm with you on this, it's never happened to me before either, and if it was an issue, i'd hear about it regularly.


----------



## buzzatron

cobb2819 said:


> What Software version is on your computer and Firmware version is on the DSP?


So today I was tinkering around on my software and got a fatal error code after copying to console. I tried a few times, power cycled, and eventually uninstalled and re installed. I must've been running the old software up until now! All is well now except that I have a few questions regarding crossovers. Here we go.

1. Since I am unable to defeat the crossover on my amps, and are only given a 12db slope option in high pass and 12/24 lowpass. Am I able to achieve 18db highpass by adding a 6db on the 6to8??

And 2. The crossover points on the amp are not very definite. As in there are markings for 5khz and then 1khz, with one slash in between(figures are not exact). So to achieve, say, highpass @4000hz 18db slope. What would be the best way to get this? Set xo on the 6to8 to 4000hz and turn dial on the amp till I hear my tweets?? Or am I forced to do manual adjustments at 12db and leave the xo zerod on the 6to8. 

If this is a super noob Q. I will repost on the basic side. Thanks in advance.


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> 1. Since I am unable to defeat the crossover on my amps, and are only given a 12db slope option in high pass and 12/24 lowpass. Am I able to achieve 18db highpass by adding a 6db on the 6to8??
> 
> And 2. The crossover points on the amp are not very definite. As in there are markings for 5khz and then 1khz, with one slash in between(figures are not exact). So to achieve, say, highpass @4000hz 18db slope. What would be the best way to get this? Set xo on the 6to8 to 4000hz and turn dial on the amp till I hear my tweets?? Or am I forced to do manual adjustments at 12db and leave the xo zerod on the 6to8.


What amp?


----------



## buzzatron

cobb2819 said:


> What amp?


Audison Lrx 4.3 - Thought i posted this. ooops


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> Audison Lrx 4.3 - Thought i posted this. ooops


Can't you turn the crossover off? Isn't there an access panel on the bottom of the amp?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free


----------



## buzzatron

cobb2819 said:


> Can't you turn the crossover off? Isn't there an access panel on the bottom of the amp?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free


Well, I'll be damned! You sir, are a genius!
That makes things a lot easier.


----------



## cobb2819

buzzatron said:


> Well, I'll be damned! You sir, are a genius!
> That makes things a lot easier.


Now, with that in mind, on the 6to8 you can stack crossovers. So you can program 2 12db butterworth high pass filters and the end result is a 24db per octave LR. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free


----------



## mosca

I think nobody put the original MindMap interface images, right?.

here's a magazine review (in German, which I don't speak) too ->
Test Car-Hifi-Klangprozessoren - MikMedia MindMap - sehr gut


----------



## LBaudio

just a quick question...out of curiosity.........what is the max amount of delay for each channel.....not stated on their web site, they only mention that the each step is 0.02

Tnx!


----------



## cobb2819

LBaudio said:


> just a quick question...out of curiosity.........what is the max amount of delay for each channel.....not stated on their web site, they only mention that the each step is 0.02
> 
> Tnx!


15ms


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

Is the user manual on the Mosconi website seriously the official one and only manual for the 6to8? Am I missing something or is that the weakest documentation in the history of car audio?
Not trying to be a butthead here but I recently bought a 6to8 and will be installing it this week. This is the very first DSP I've owned and I'm afraid with that users manual as my only guide I am sunk before I even get started! I realize I can ask questions here and for that I am eternally grateful but I'm afraid I will have so many brutally newbish questions that you all will want to strangle me in short order.


----------



## quality_sound

What is it you need to know?


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

Well that's kind of a loaded question. I mean I need to know everything. No seriously this is my first attempt at going active and I know virtually nothing about it. In the past I have always bought the best component set I could afford, threw them in the stock locations, ran them through the passives that came with the set and called it good.
Here's a quick rundown of what I've got going on and what I'm attempting to accomplish. First off this is going in my brand spanking new 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic.
Unfortunately to get the car equipped the way I wanted it I ended up getting stuck buying the "top of the line" H/K stereo system. Total P.O.S.! My original plan was to get rid of everything but the stock Navigation/DVD head unit which is actually quite nice. But as we all know even though LOCs and all their variations have come a long way the whole premise of them still sucks! Luckily I was able to sell off enough of the stock gear to purchase an aftermarket Kenwood Navi unit. This one to be exact Kenwood Excelon DNX690HD Navigation receiver at Crutchfield.com. 
The rest of the system consists of the aforementioned head unit with the Focal KRX2 component set driven by a JL Audio HD 600\4. The mid\woofers are in the stock door locations with the tweets in custom A-Pillar pods. This was also my first attempt at any sort of fabrication. The doors are heavily treated with Dynamat Extreme. The low end consists of a pair of JL 10w6v2s run off of a JL Audio HD 1200/1. The subs are in a sealed box in the trunk facing rearward. The last piece of the puzzle is of course the Mosconi 6to8 DSP.
Sorry for the long winded description of the system but I figured if I was going to be asking questions it was best that you knew exactly what we were dealing with. I have also attached a few pictures of the setup.
The new head unit is scheduled for delivery tomorrow and I am hoping by tomorrow night I will be ready to fire up the system for the first time. This is where my first question comes in. What do I do? Where do I start? What x-over points do I start with and how do I even set them in the DSP? I really have no idea where to begin with this thing! I'm sure this belongs over in the super newb part of the forum but I really wanted to post it here where it seems all of the 6to8 gurus hang out. Is that alright?
Thank you all very much for any and all help you can give me. I've never been intimidated like this when it comes to setting up any sort of electronics and I feel thoroughly lost at this point!:blush:


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

here are the pics.


----------



## DeanE10

Where did you get the 6TO8? Your first option is to get the software loaded onto your laptop and get with the folks you got the 6TO8 from unless it was an individual unable to help... 

I am sure if you PM Cobb2819 and ask him for about 30 minutes of his time, he can point you in the right direction but most of the time you are expected to have a little bit of DSP knowledge...

You will have to know where each connection is into the 6TO8 and what channel is connected to the amps out of the 6TO8.

The below examples are how I have set them up and your mileage may vary...
IE: most only use input one and sometimes two
Output channels:
1&2 = mostly tweets
3&4 = mid range or center channel
5&6 = mid bass
7&8 = sub bass

I will provide more details later... additionally, you can search this forum and find tons here on settings and crossover points for the Focal set you have...


----------



## quality_sound

IbizaOnAcid said:


> Well that's kind of a loaded question. I mean I need to know everything. No seriously this is my first attempt at going active and I know virtually nothing about it. In the past I have always bought the best component set I could afford, threw them in the stock locations, ran them through the passives that came with the set and called it good.
> Here's a quick rundown of what I've got going on and what I'm attempting to accomplish. First off this is going in my brand spanking new 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic.
> Unfortunately to get the car equipped the way I wanted it I ended up getting stuck buying the "top of the line" H/K stereo system. Total P.O.S.! My original plan was to get rid of everything but the stock Navigation/DVD head unit which is actually quite nice. But as we all know even though LOCs and all their variations have come a long way the whole premise of them still sucks! Luckily I was able to sell off enough of the stock gear to purchase an aftermarket Kenwood Navi unit. This one to be exact Kenwood Excelon DNX690HD Navigation receiver at Crutchfield.com.
> The rest of the system consists of the aforementioned head unit with the Focal KRX2 component set driven by a JL Audio HD 600\4. The mid\woofers are in the stock door locations with the tweets in custom A-Pillar pods. This was also my first attempt at any sort of fabrication. The doors are heavily treated with Dynamat Extreme. The low end consists of a pair of JL 10w6v2s run off of a JL Audio HD 1200/1. The subs are in a sealed box in the trunk facing rearward. The last piece of the puzzle is of course the Mosconi 6to8 DSP.
> Sorry for the long winded description of the system but I figured if I was going to be asking questions it was best that you knew exactly what we were dealing with. I have also attached a few pictures of the setup.
> The new head unit is scheduled for delivery tomorrow and I am hoping by tomorrow night I will be ready to fire up the system for the first time. This is where my first question comes in. What do I do? Where do I start? What x-over points do I start with and how do I even set them in the DSP? I really have no idea where to begin with this thing! I'm sure this belongs over in the super newb part of the forum but I really wanted to post it here where it seems all of the 6to8 gurus hang out. Is that alright?
> Thank you all very much for any and all help you can give me. I've never been intimidated like this when it comes to setting up any sort of electronics and I feel thoroughly lost at this point!:blush:


Nothing you are unsure about is in the manual. It'll show you how to make adjustments, but not why. It's not a tuning guide by any stretch of the imagination.


----------



## Mic10is

DeanE10 said:


> Where did you get the 6TO8? Your first option is to get the software loaded onto your laptop and get with the folks you got the 6TO8 from unless it was an individual unable to help...
> 
> I am sure if you PM Cobb2819 and ask him for about 30 minutes of his time, he can point you in the right direction but most of the time you are expected to have a little bit of DSP knowledge...
> 
> You will have to know where each connection is into the 6TO8 and what channel is connected to the amps out of the 6TO8.
> 
> The below examples are how I have set them up and your mileage may vary...
> IE: most only use input one and sometimes two
> Output channels:
> 1&2 = mostly tweets
> 3&4 = mid range or center channel
> 5&6 = mid bass
> 7&8 = sub bass
> 
> I will provide more details later... additionally, you can search this forum and find tons here on settings and crossover points for the Focal set you have...



I prefer to do Midrange on 1/2 bc it has the most EQ bands available and typically midrange covers the largest frequency range.
Tweeters on 3/4
5/6midbass
7/8 sub

also, the 6to8 has some video tutorials in the software that will help you use the processor.


----------



## basher8621

I use 1/2 for Mid Range 3/4 for midbass 5/6 on tweeter and 7/8 on sub.


----------



## DeanE10

ok ok ok... Damn Mic and Steve... 

Output channels:
1&2 = mid range or center channel
3&4 = mid range/bass or center channel
5&6 = mostly tweets
7&8 = sub bass


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

Thanks guys that will at least get me through the hardware setup part of things.
I received my new head unit today. I will check back here when I get it installed and am ready to setup the software part of the 6to8. I will do as much as I can on my own but I know I'm gonna have lots of questions. Again thanks in advance for any and all help.

Craig


----------



## Vikingboy

Do any of you know what differences exist between the DSP in the Mosconi 120.4 DSP amp and a separate 6to8 unit. I understand the AMAS device is compatible with the 6 to 8 only but how would using the bluetooth audio in of my Pioneer AVIC-F950DAB headunit compare to the AMAS. Is bluetooth audio from one device the same as another or is there is SQ upgrade going with the 6to8 and AMAS device, even though it would cost about an addition €700 (sorry euro buyer here!)

120.4 + integrated DSP €500

vs

120.4 €350
6to8 €500
AMAS module €225

thanks in adv


----------



## tonny

You can't compare the bt streaming function from the AMAS module to any other 
bt streaming function, this is becausse the AMAS module stream's the digital sound 
direct in the the digital section from the 6to8. 

For using the AMAS module you also need the optical cart for the dsp otherwise you can't 
connect the AMAS module in the dsp.


----------



## palldat

Ok, so how do I do active front (tweets, mids, mid woof) rear fill and sub?


----------



## Mic10is

palldat said:


> Ok, so how do I do active front (tweets, mids, mid woof) rear fill and sub?


Not enough channels unless u use passives or you run rears as mono. Neither of which are ideal.

1/2 would be mids. 3/4midbass. 5/6 Tweeter 7 could be rear fill in mono but that defeats the purpose of rear fill. and 8 sub.
or just 7/8 as sub.


----------



## cobb2819

You could get 2 4to6 sp-dif and link them for more than 8 channels of output.


----------



## [email protected]

Can you control 2 units like that via 1 Controller?


----------



## palldat

cobb2819 said:


> You could get 2 4to6 sp-dif and link them for more than 8 channels of output.


Do the 4to6 have the same features as the 6to8? Would I get full credit on my 6to8 if I upgrade?

I have the amas and both bluetooth cards.


----------



## quality_sound

Exactly the same but missing two channels. Get full credit?


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Do the 4to6 have the same features as the 6to8? Would I get full credit on my 6to8 if I upgrade?
> 
> I have the amas and both bluetooth cards.


The amas is not supported by the 4to6. So I would stick with the 6to8, eliminate the rears, and be happy.


----------



## cobb2819

[email protected] said:


> Can you control 2 units like that via 1 Controller?


You control the first in the chain, and the digital stream is altered on the output of the sp-dif.


----------



## james2266

Ok, so was out trying to do some minor adjustments to the new setup. I was connected and it appeared to go through one of its common, yet annoying, bluetooth drops. It gave me an error when I tried to get the software to reconnect. It was an error I have never seen before 'Could not connect to preset' or something like that. My laptop is now dead apparently now too. I have tried to reconnect to the DSP through my home computer using the same bluetooth dongle and it can't see the dsp at all. I thought, oh, maybe its just too far away. I tried my Android phone which always connected immediately and now it won't connect at all. The worst part is that my entire car stereo is dead. I have no sound at all coming from any speaker and apparently no way to get it to produce anything. I tried unplugging the BT at the dsp and replugging it in. Now the BT on the DSP is dead too it appears. I get no flashing from it at all. As you can tell, I am royally pissed by this. I will not say any more until I get some info from here hopefully.


----------



## [email protected]

Did you try to unplug power from the DSP and let it sit for a few minutes and then plug it back in?


----------



## quality_sound

james2266 said:


> Ok, so was out trying to do some minor adjustments to the new setup. I was connected and it appeared to go through one of its common, yet annoying, bluetooth drops. It gave me an error when I tried to get the software to reconnect. It was an error I have never seen before 'Could not connect to preset' or something like that. My laptop is now dead apparently now too. I have tried to reconnect to the DSP through my home computer using the same bluetooth dongle and it can't see the dsp at all. I thought, oh, maybe its just too far away. I tried my Android phone which always connected immediately and now it won't connect at all. The worst part is that my entire car stereo is dead. I have no sound at all coming from any speaker and apparently no way to get it to produce anything. I tried unplugging the BT at the dsp and replugging it in. Now the BT on the DSP is dead too it appears. I get no flashing from it at all. As you can tell, I am royally pissed by this. I will not say any more until I get some info from here hopefully.


Plug in a hard line USB cable and report back.


----------



## james2266

[email protected] said:


> Did you try to unplug power from the DSP and let it sit for a few minutes and then plug it back in?


Thanks Joey. No I did not try that yet. It is a bit of a mission to get to the main power lead for the DSP. Would cutting power at the battery do the same trick?



quality_sound said:


> Plug in a hard line USB cable and report back.


I have never been able to get USB to connect before to my laptop. Besides my laptop is now toast too. I might try the wife's crappy one tomorrow and see if that works.


----------



## [email protected]

james2266 said:


> Thanks Joey. No I did not try that yet. It is a bit of a mission to get to the main power lead for the DSP. Would cutting power at the battery do the same trick?
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to try at this point.....


----------



## james2266

[email protected] said:


> james2266 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Joey. No I did not try that yet. It is a bit of a mission to get to the main power lead for the DSP. Would cutting power at the battery do the same trick?
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to try at this point.....
> 
> 
> 
> I tried that last night before bed and it did nothing. I have a few ideas I will try once I get home from work later today. I am going to try to get my wife's laptop working and maybe the usb on that will actually work. We'll see. Gonna be a real quiet trip into work and back tho
Click to expand...


----------



## [email protected]

Good luck with it. We have done quite a few 6to8's and never seen this happen (we use one in almost every install we do). And that was with a number of times having the bluetooth drop out. Never had the combination of bluetooth drop and laptop die, though..
PM cobb and see what he has to say...


----------



## palldat

I would think it is the pc If you could never get it to work with usb either. What brand pc, what os and service pack and what brand bluetooth dongle and bluetooth revision is used.

I use my bluetooth exclusively on mine and have never had an issue. I did have an initial problem with the streaming but it was the amas card and once replaced not a hitch.


----------



## james2266

Ok, I FINALLY got back into the 6to8 and have tunes once again. I lost most of two night due to this crap. I had to pull the seat to get at the usb port which I tried first. I tried for a solid hour trying to get that to work and nothing. Very frustrating. Oh yeah, there is nothing wrong with the cable either as I could hear the laptop acknowledge it each time it connected to the laptop and disconnected. The software did dick. I tried disconnecting the main power lead for a couple mins and that did nothing. My last resort was trying the bluetooth once again. It did not come on at all. I thought it was fried. I don't know why but I took it out and put back in but slightly to the left on the board in the same slot area and low and behold it started flashing again. Only thing I can think of is only half of the pins were connected the first time possibly? All I can say is the 'port' for bluetooth on these things licks the big one. Why did they put such a wide slot and crappy connection on this one or is it just mine? Anyways, once I got the bluetooth flashing again, the software connected no problem at all. All of my settings were still there except levels which was wonderful as I don't have them saved because of the old laptop dieing. Somehow all of the channels were at -100+ db (whatever lowest setting is). I think it might be some kind of safety precaution or something. I actually like that. Nice to know it won't take amps/speakers with it in the case of a possible error/failure. 

Oh, and the laptop dieing had nothing to do with the 6to8 in any way. It was a very old laptop that has taken alot of abuse over the years. I think it just was its time. Good to know I dont have to buy a new processor again now. Now back to tuning and maybe laptop shopping too.


----------



## [email protected]

Glad you got it working! I haven't had any problems with the dongle, you just have to take care when inserting it. Nice to know your processor is working again!


----------



## james2266

[email protected] said:


> Glad you got it working! I haven't had any problems with the dongle, you just have to take care when inserting it. Nice to know your processor is working again!


Thanks Joey, It was quite the relief for sure. It is a beatiful sounding processor and so small. I just wish that a little more care was taken into designing the BT port for it. It just seems to flimsy when it is installed and as I found out so easy to not have installed properly. There should be no chance for these types of issues for anyone that is the least bit computer savvy. I am VERY computer savvy.


----------



## Offroader5

Alright, I need some help/advice. Getting ready to finally install my 6to8 and want to be certain of what I need to run and whether I have enough cable.

My HU has 3 sets of outs F/R/SUB. I assume it to be the best scenario to run all three back to the 6to8 for input, but is it required? Is it possible to only run the front outputs to the 6to8 and then using the software, set it up to split to all the channels? I'm under the impression that this is possible and the only draw back would be the inability to control fader at the HU...but isn't this function available as an adjustment in the Android app?

What other downsides would there be to this if it's even possible via the software?

I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with running only the one pair of patch cables for simplicity, or if I indeed need to run all three pairs.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Offroader5 said:


> Alright, I need some help/advice. Getting ready to finally install my 6to8 and want to be certain of what I need to run and whether I have enough cable.
> 
> My HU has 3 sets of outs F/R/SUB. I assume it to be the best scenario to run all three back to the 6to8 for input, but is it required? Is it possible to only run the front outputs to the 6to8 and then using the software, set it up to split to all the channels? I'm under the impression that this is possible and the only draw back would be the inability to control fader at the HU...but isn't this function available as an adjustment in the Android app?
> 
> What other downsides would there be to this if it's even possible via the software?
> 
> I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with running only the one pair of patch cables for simplicity, or if I indeed need to run all three pairs.


One pair is all you really need. The rest can be handled by the 6to8. If you want sub control you can use a base knob on your sub amp, phone application, etc. If you wanted sub level control through the head unit you would need an extra set of RCA ran to the back.


----------



## quality_sound

If the sub level on your HU is easy to use, I'd run that but no need to run rear RCAs.


----------



## Offroader5

Got-Four-Eights said:


> One pair is all you really need. The rest can be handled by the 6to8. If you want sub control you can use a base knob on your sub amp, phone application, etc. If you wanted sub level control through the head unit you would need an extra set of RCA ran to the back.


That is what I thought. I do have a sub knob, so I could use that if I needed to.



quality_sound said:


> If the sub level on your HU is easy to use, I'd run that but no need to run rear RCAs.


Adjusting the sub level via the HU is a pain, you have to go through 3 or 4 different menus to get to it. Sounds like I don't need to worry about running anything but the fronts back. I installed the 6to8 app on my phone and it looks like the sub level adjustment should be adequate to use, so I may not even have to worry about using the amp knob. We'll see how well the apps level adjustment works out though before I get ahead of myself.


----------



## invecs

Guys, I'm having this problem with my 6to8. Sorry if I didn't backread. 

I was listening and tuning awhile ago, then suddenly the overall volume dropped. I checked all settings in my laptop and connections on the unit...everything is fine. Now even if I max the hu volume, the sound is very faint. I'm running by high level connections from the oem hu of a 2011 ford fiesta.

Anyone please help. EMMA finals is on next Sat. Damn.


----------



## [email protected]

invecs said:


> Guys, I'm having this problem with my 6to8. Sorry if I didn't backread.
> 
> I was listening and tuning awhile ago, then suddenly the overall volume dropped. I checked all settings in my laptop and connections on the unit...everything is fine. Now even if I max the hu volume, the sound is very faint. I'm running by high level connections from the oem hu of a 2011 ford fiesta.
> 
> Anyone please help. EMMA finals is on next Sat. Damn.


What does your system consist of?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free


----------



## invecs

My system consists of a 2 way front stage with rear midbass and a sub with passive radiator. All active.

Hiquphon ow1 tweeters- powered by a Boston gt20

Pair of Dynaudio 17wlq midbass (fronts)- powered by 2 bridged Boston gt20, 1 amp per side

Pair of Dynaudio 17wlq (rears)- powered by a bridged Boston gt42

Sub is a Boston G5 10 with passive radiator- powered by a bridged 2 ohms Boston gt22


----------



## mark620

Is the head unit the power or is there a factory amp? Its sounds like your signal lost its power. The source could be clipping? Did you change the input level on the 6-8.


----------



## tonny

You could try to reset the head room management system by switching off you amp's and push the button: "reset remote control level" I you use the remote from mosconi turn down the volume again and then switch on your amp's again and check if the volume is oke again!


----------



## invecs

mark620 said:


> Is the head unit the power or is there a factory amp? Its sounds like your signal lost its power. The source could be clipping? Did you change the input level on the 6-8.


I had the 6to8 input attenuation at 1/4, on the mixer tab at 100%. I lost a ton of volume. Prior to losing volume I had a strong hiss...which previously wasn't there. I also had episodes in which the left channel would not play. Everything is wired /connected properly.


----------



## invecs

tonny said:


> You could try to reset the head room management system by switching off you amp's and push the button: "reset remote control level" I you use the remote from mosconi turn down the volume again and then switch on your amp's again and check if the volume is oke again!


Thank you so much! Just tried it and fixed it.


----------



## tonny

invecs said:


> Thank you so much! Just tried it and fixed it.


Good to hear! Probably you send in a to high input or want a to big 
output from the dsp and then it's going to clip then the headroom management system tunes the volume down so it will not clip again. 
So check your settings also check if you don't boost the eq to much when the levels are on there max.


----------



## palldat

Ok, so I finally got my other amp in and my speakers switched out. 

Pioneer dvd hu running front/rear and sub back to the 6to8. Amps are jl audio hd900/5 and hd600/4.
Front stage : L1ProRR, L3SE and L6v2
Rear stage : imagine 5.25
Sub: Image dynamics IDQ12.4v4

The power is separated as follows.
HD900 / 5 
1/2 - L1ProRR
3/4 - Imagine 5.25 (rear channel)
Sub channel - Image dynamics IDQ12.4v4

Hd600/4
1/2 - L3SE
3/4 - L6v2

My question is...what are my best options for crossover points? I was going to use the numbers from the hybrid 3 way passive crossovers and adjust.

I know the tweeters get high pass and the mid bass and sub get low pass but hoe should I cross the L3SE? Use two filters for high pass or use the highshelf option?

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

By the way, 

Happy thanksgiving to all


----------



## quality_sound

You'll need a high pass AND low pass on the L3 and L6. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## palldat

Are all of the 6to8 capable of 8v or is that a physically different unit?


----------



## invecs

I just updated the software...and now it is asking for a PIN code. I haven't inputed any. What pin should I use to start using the dsp?

Thanks.


----------



## james2266

invecs said:


> I just updated the software...and now it is asking for a PIN code. I haven't inputed any. What pin should I use to start using the dsp?
> 
> Thanks.


I can't remember right off hand what i did but it was one of two things. I either just entered past the screen (ie. no password) or enter in 1-2-3-4 and hit enter. That is the default code for the bluetooth anyways too.


----------



## palldat

invecs said:


> I just updated the software...and now it is asking for a PIN code. I haven't inputed any. What pin should I use to start using the dsp?
> 
> Thanks.


If you haven't figured it out yet the code is "0000" as in zero, zero, zero, zero


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Are all of the 6to8 capable of 8v or is that a physically different unit?


Physically different.


----------



## mark620

Will the new streaming audio board work on the non 8v unit. One that's a year old. Will optical be a better input than the streaming mod.


----------



## cobb2819

mark620 said:


> Will the new streaming audio board work on the non 8v unit. One that's a year old. Will optical be a better input than the streaming mod.


Check your PM


----------



## palldat

What is the main difference between the 6to8 and 6to8 V8? Why would I switch?


----------



## quality_sound

The ONLY difference is that it has double the output voltage 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

quality_sound said:


> The ONLY difference is that it has double the output voltage
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


The power supply is a little beefier and the input stage handles a little more voltage, and yes, 8v output. Those are the THREE hardware differences.


----------



## Mic10is

cobb2819 said:


> The power supply is a little beefier and the input stage handles a little more voltage, and yes, 8v output. Those are the THREE hardware differences.


I talked to Nick Wingate at finals and he mentioned he was pushing for Opamp sockets so the consumer could roll opamps.
Any chance this could be made an option?


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> I talked to Nick Wingate at finals and he mentioned he was pushing for Opamp sockets so the consumer could roll opamps.
> Any chance this could be made an option?


Anything is POSSIBLE, probable is a different story.


----------



## Mic10is

cobb2819 said:


> Anything is POSSIBLE, probable is a different story.


Ok, whats the probability of it happening or at least offering it as a custom factory option?
Would make things simpler for those end users who like to tweak for their best sound.

I already have a regular 6to8 with LM4562 on the outputs and AD 8599 on inputs and it has much better resolution and detail than the stock 5532


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> Ok, whats the probability of it happening or at least offering it as a custom factory option?
> Would make things simpler for those end users who like to tweak for their best sound.
> 
> I already have a regular 6to8 with LM4562 on the outputs and AD 8599 on inputs and it has much better resolution and detail than the stock 5532


Honestly, Not Probable. For the very few people out there who want to mod one, you already know the right channels to get it done. With the quantity of devices out in the world already, and how few of them have actually been modded, it just doesn't seem like there is a need for it.


----------



## SQram

Mitsu1grn said:


> Greetings!
> 
> 
> For those of you who are wanting Bluetooth audio streaming, it is going to be available quickly. Now then, the Bluetooth Dongle that many of you have now is not designed for Bluetooth Audio streaming. There is a separate piece that must be purchased. In addition to that antenna, you must also have the digital input/output card in your processor. It has the Bluetooth Audio input on that card.
> 
> When you have the Bluetooth Antenna attached, you will be able to listen to all of your files on any device that has Bluetooth streaming available. This includes being able to stream 24/96 files via Bluetooth. The DSP will accept those files as high res files and you can hear the difference. I was playing high res files over my IPad at CES over the Bluetooth input and it worked! Very impressed by the sound! Now then, if you do decide to purchase this when it comes available you do need to know that if you have the 6 to 8 in your trunk you will need to locate the antenna inside the car.
> 
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> Nick Wingate
> National Training Coordinator
> Orca Design and Mfg.


Total HD newb here, up until now all my critical listening has always been done via CD etc...

I've purchased the AMAS streaming card for my 6to8 and I'm looking into purchasing some high resolution files but I'm not sure what the best route to take is. I've checked out HD Tracks and I'm a bit overwhelmed. Can you suggest the best method for HD playback for an idevice (iPhone 5 specifically)?

-What type of files offer the best resolution? HD Tracks suggests FLAC but it looks as though iTunes does not support it?

-What app's do you use for playback? iTunes or another? I've seen Golden Ear mentioned, but I know nothing about it.

Thanks for helping an old dog learn new tricks...:blush:


----------



## cobb2819

SQram said:


> Total HD newb here, up until now all my critical listening has always been done via CD etc...
> 
> I've purchased the AMAS streaming card for my 6to8 and I'm looking into purchasing some high resolution files but I'm not sure what the best route to take is. I've checked out HD Tracks and I'm a bit overwhelmed. Can you suggest the best method for HD playback for an idevice (iPhone 5 specifically)?
> 
> -What type of files offer the best resolution? HD Tracks suggests FLAC but it looks as though iTunes does not support it?
> 
> -What app's do you use for playback? iTunes or another? I've seen Golden Ear mentioned, but I know nothing about it.
> 
> Thanks for helping an old dog learn new tricks...:blush:


Flac Player App for iOS, with .Flac files from HDTracks is my method.


----------



## quality_sound

Just use Apple Lossless

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## BigRed

I use aiff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tonny

When I did test the AMAS module the best sounding format from my iPhone where WAV files.


----------



## palldat

tonny said:


> When I did test the AMAS module the best sounding format from my iPhone where WAV files.


I would use AFLAC or Apple Lossless.

I use FLAC, WAV, AIFF, MP3 and they all sound better through the AMAS than through Analog.


----------



## Thunderplains

Hey guys..

Need your .02.. Joey sold me on the 6to8v8 to replace my Bitone.1 I am very familiar with the Bitone.1 interface and options.. Could someone give me the skinny on what I am gaining by going to the 6to8v8 over the Bitone.1? (Yes, 8v out, that I know)

Also, the bluetooth version for the Mosconi unit is v3 or v4? 

I have been reading good things about this unit, but would like feedback from those who own it and use it.

I was not thrilled at the idea of putting a TRU SSLD setup after the bitone to drive up the voltage and Joey highly recommended this unit, so I am hoping to kill 2 birds (if not more) with one stone.

Any feedback is appreciated guys and thanks ahead of time...


----------



## simplicityinsound

Thunderplains said:


> Hey guys..
> 
> Need your .02.. Joey sold me on the 6to8v8 to replace my Bitone.1 I am very familiar with the Bitone.1 interface and options.. Could someone give me the skinny on what I am gaining by going to the 6to8v8 over the Bitone.1? (Yes, 8v out, that I know)
> 
> Also, the bluetooth version for the Mosconi unit is v3 or v4?
> 
> I have been reading good things about this unit, but would like feedback from those who own it and use it.
> 
> I was not thrilled at the idea of putting a TRU SSLD setup after the bitone to drive up the voltage and Joey highly recommended this unit, so I am hoping to kill 2 birds (if not more) with one stone.
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated guys and thanks ahead of time...


I think u pretty much already nailed it. Built in line driver...more volume less floor noise. 

It is also smaller and for me more tuning capability via 10 15 and 30 band full parametric eq with 1hz steps.

Not sure if my opinion counts tho since I have done about 60 dsp6to8s haha. Btw not a single failure or issue out of those. 




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Thunderplains

simplicityinsound said:


> I think u pretty much already nailed it. Built in line driver...more volume less floor noise.
> 
> It is also smaller and for me more tuning capability via 10 15 and 30 band full parametric eq with 1hz steps.
> 
> Not sure if my opinion counts tho since I have done about 60 dsp6to8s haha. Btw not a single failure or issue out of those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2



Thank Bing..

Can you say "Bias" ?. Does it have the 31 bands per output and i read earlier on about the mute function. Am I able to mute the individual channels?

Thanks man


----------



## simplicityinsound

Thunderplains said:


> Thank Bing..
> 
> Can you say "Bias" ?. Does it have the 31 bands per output and i read earlier on about the mute function. Am I able to mute the individual channels?
> 
> Thanks man


31 band on channels 1 2 3 4...thats 31 per channel....5 and 6 have I think 15 per cha. 7 8 have 10 or 11 per side? U can mute any channel u want

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## simplicityinsound

My suggestion is to download software and play w it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Thunderplains

simplicityinsound said:


> My suggestion is to download software and play w it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2



Just did.. Not very "intuitive like other interfaces I have seen. Also looks like i am able to have different slopes on the hi and ok of a single channel? Also, since I can not plug it in yet, does it have a "wizard" for the 1st time setup?


----------



## simplicityinsound

Thunderplains said:


> Just did.. Not very "intuitive like other interfaces I have seen. Also looks like i am able to have different slopes on the hi and ok of a single channel? Also, since I can not plug it in yet, does it have a "wizard" for the 1st time setup?


Yeah that parts for sure about the gui. U can have different types and slopes and freq on any channels xover. There is the full version u can download w a built in tutorial iirc. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Thunderplains

simplicityinsound said:


> Yeah that parts for sure about the gui. U can have different types and slopes and freq on any channels xover. There is the full version u can download w a built in tutorial iirc.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2



Ok cool.. Bing, any tips when setting this thing up? Connections? Settings during the initial install?


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> My suggestion is to download software and play w it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


THIS X10000. I haven't used the v8 version but I do currently have the regular 6to8 which I have read is identical outside of the higher voltage out. I had a Bit One.1 before the 6to8 so I think I have a few things to say here and I am not associated with anyone. Oh, and I don't think Joey or Bing would ever steer anyone wrong EVER to make a sale. From my dealings with both (never met, YET...) they have both been super helpful guys. Anyways, here are the differences that I liked about the 6to8 over the Bit One.1.

1. First and formost - WAY LOWER NOISE FLOOR. With the 8 volt out I am sure you will be able to hear a pin drop!

2. No annoying pops/cracks through the speakers everytime you write to the Bit One and occasionally when I turned it off.

3. Can set left and right eq separately and have them STAY separated. I hate the every other processor makes one side over write the other when you want to drop one frequency a db. I hope the H800 I am exchanging the 6to8 for today doesn't irritate me too greatly here. I need proper center processing is the only reason for the exchange.

4. You can link any and all channels together to do time alignment where as the Bit One could only link left and right of a single set of channels.

5. I've never played with it but the AMAS setup is supposed to be great for streaming hi-res files. The main reason I have not considered selling my 6to8 yet.

Now, wouldn't be fair to go the other way. There are only two things I can think of that I liked more about the Bit One.

1. I could actually connect to the Bit One via usb. Never was able to get the 6to8 to be recognized by my laptop via usb. With BT tho it works fine most of the time tho. It is annoying when it drops the connection occasionally. The real annoyance is that it doesn't always tell you in the siftware immediately that the connection is lost and you could of thought you had set something and in reality it didn't happen.

2. Related to above. It takes a while to connect to the processor and it has to do all 4 presets even if you have only one with anything on it. All processors take time to connect but it is excessively annoying to have to wait for reconnect because the BT dropped connection.

That's all I can think of right now. I will say that if the 6to8 had surround processing included, I would of never even looked at the Alpine H800. I was very happy with it. It just has come to the point that it won't allow me to go where I want to go now for processing. There is a growing part of me that is thinking of keeping it in the system with the H800 and running something like 12 active channels too tho.


----------



## james2266

Thunderplains said:


> Just did.. Not very "intuitive like other interfaces I have seen. Also looks like i am able to have different slopes on the hi and ok of a single channel? Also, since I can not plug it in yet, does it have a "wizard" for the 1st time setup?


Oh, yeah, forgot about that improvement over the Bit One too. Also, alot more crossover topology choices to choose from even tho I still ended up back at BT 24db in the end on all channels. Oh, that was another confusing thing. The way it is setup, there is no way to get a 24 db BW cross that I could figure out. 2 12 db BW crosses are equivalent to a LR 24 db cross.


----------



## palldat

simplicityinsound said:


> Yeah that parts for sure about the gui. U can have different types and slopes and freq on any channels xover. There is the full version u can download w a built in tutorial iirc.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


What advantages would I have by going up to the 8v with jl audio hd 900/5 and hd600/4 and playing audio through bluetooth?


----------



## Thunderplains

james2266 said:


> Oh, yeah, forgot about that improvement over the Bit One too. Also, alot more crossover topology choices to choose from even tho I still ended up back at BT 24db in the end on all channels. Oh, that was another confusing thing. The way it is setup, there is no way to get a 24 db BW cross that I could figure out. 2 12 db BW crosses are equivalent to a LR 24 db cross.



There is no way to get a 24db slope on BW? That's very common, why would you not be able to set that?


----------



## james2266

Thunderplains said:


> There is no way to get a 24db slope on BW? That's very common, why would you not be able to set that?


The way the Mosconi works, there are pretty much every topology available (BW, LR, Bessel, starts with a T and even make your own) but only 6 of 12 db slopes are offered. Now, you can stack up to 5 crossovers per channel (if I remember that correctly). ie. you can have 2x12 db slope to get a 24 db slope. The issue is with topologies. When you stack 2 x 12 db BW slopes it changes to a 24 db LR crossover. What I ended up doing was 'making a 24 db BW' using the user select and a 12 db starts with a T crossover. I just played with the q until the representation that was being displayed was as close to a 24 db BW as I could get. I only had issues with this with the hi pass on my midbass however. 24 db LR is probably prefered by most everywhere else - well maybe not the sub lowpass.


----------



## Thunderplains

That is weird.. I use 24db slopes with BW on the bitone today and it sounds great for my setup.. So unless I want LR, I will be unable to utilize a straight 24db BW with the 6to8v8?? I have to be missing something here


----------



## james2266

Thunderplains said:


> That is weird.. I use 24db slopes with BW on the bitone today and it sounds great for my setup.. So unless I want LR, I will be unable to utilize a straight 24db BW with the 6to8v8?? I have to be missing something here


Not missing anything there. It is weird but with so many other ways to get the response you want with this unit, I really did find it pretty much a non issue.


----------



## SouthSyde

Thunderplains said:


> Hey guys..
> 
> Need your .02.. Joey sold me on the 6to8v8 to replace my Bitone.1 I am very familiar with the Bitone.1 interface and options.. Could someone give me the skinny on what I am gaining by going to the 6to8v8 over the Bitone.1? (Yes, 8v out, that I know)
> 
> Also, the bluetooth version for the Mosconi unit is v3 or v4?
> 
> I have been reading good things about this unit, but would like feedback from those who own it and use it.
> 
> I was not thrilled at the idea of putting a TRU SSLD setup after the bitone to drive up the voltage and Joey highly recommended this unit, so I am hoping to kill 2 birds (if not more) with one stone.
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated guys and thanks ahead of time...


TBH, it just plain sounds better...


----------



## lbp775

james2266 said:


> THIS X10000. I haven't used the v8 version but I do currently have the regular 6to8 which I have read is identical outside of the higher voltage out. I had a Bit One.1 before the 6to8 so I think I have a few things to say here and I am not associated with anyone. Oh, and I don't think Joey or Bing would ever steer anyone wrong EVER to make a sale. From my dealings with both (never met, YET...) they have both been super helpful guys. Anyways, here are the differences that I liked about the 6to8 over the Bit One.1.
> 
> 1. First and formost - WAY LOWER NOISE FLOOR. With the 8 volt out I am sure you will be able to hear a pin drop!
> 
> 2. No annoying pops/cracks through the speakers everytime you write to the Bit One and occasionally when I turned it off.
> 
> 3. Can set left and right eq separately and have them STAY separated. I hate the every other processor makes one side over write the other when you want to drop one frequency a db. I hope the H800 I am exchanging the 6to8 for today doesn't irritate me too greatly here. I need proper center processing is the only reason for the exchange.
> 
> 4. You can link any and all channels together to do time alignment where as the Bit One could only link left and right of a single set of channels.
> 
> 5. I've never played with it but the AMAS setup is supposed to be great for streaming hi-res files. The main reason I have not considered selling my 6to8 yet.
> 
> Now, wouldn't be fair to go the other way. There are only two things I can think of that I liked more about the Bit One.
> 
> 1. I could actually connect to the Bit One via usb. *Never was able to get the 6to8 to be recognized by my laptop via usb. With BT tho it works fine most of the time tho. It is annoying when it drops the connection occasionally. *The real annoyance is that it doesn't always tell you in the siftware immediately that the connection is lost and you could of thought you had set something and in reality it didn't happen.
> 
> 2. Related to above. It takes a while to connect to the processor and it has to do all 4 presets even if you have only one with anything on it. All processors take time to connect but it is excessively annoying to have to wait for reconnect because the BT dropped connection.
> 
> That's all I can think of right now. I will say that if the 6to8 had surround processing included, I would of never even looked at the Alpine H800. I was very happy with it. It just has come to the point that it won't allow me to go where I want to go now for processing. There is a growing part of me that is thinking of keeping it in the system with the H800 and running something like 12 active channels too tho.


I also have a regular 6to8 and I noticed that I too can not connect to the processor via USB. This may be normal behavior but I would have to remove the Bluetooth module in order to connect via USB cable.


----------



## simplicityinsound

lbp775 said:


> I also have a regular 6to8 and I noticed that I too can not connect to the processor via USB. This may be normal behavior but I would have to remove the Bluetooth module in order to connect via USB cable.


Yeah u can't connect via usb if bt dongle is plugged in 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## james2266

simplicityinsound said:


> Yeah u can't connect via usb if bt dongle is plugged in
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Yes, I know this. I tried with the BT dongle disconnected and still could not connect. I got it to connect via the BT dongle tho and it was just so easy that I never tried again after I got a new laptop. It could of just been the old laptop although I never had any issues with that laptop and my Bit One. Hopefully, I have no issues with connecting via usb to my H800 once it gets warm enough here to actually get it installed. It was so cold today, I don't know if the urethane would of set properly for my mounting board. Maybe tomorrow or possibly next weekend I guess.


----------



## mark620

I Just wanted to give a quick review of the 6-8 from my experience so far . I have had it for over a year sitting in a box waiting to go in and replace my rf360.2. Well the rf died so I had to do a quick switch till I can do the whole system over in the spring. 

First off the bluetooth took 10 seconds to load and connect.. Awesome compared to the rf , but the rf is not even worth comparing. With no tuning really and I am still running passive this thing is GREAT. The sound is so crisp no noise and I am running high level in off a factory ford sync system. I hear so much more detail than I did before and all my gains on the 6-8 are at the lowest setting. The presets are great, set all your setting before your in the car and then try different one's to se what sounds best. I can not wait to switch my amps to the mosconi's and my front stage to the illusion c6 I have sitting in a box. I could only image how good it will sound. So for anyone who it wondering about the 6-8 it really is that good.


----------



## james2266

mark620 said:


> I Just wanted to give a quick review of the 6-8 from my experience so far . I have had it for over a year sitting in a box waiting to go in and replace my rf360.2. Well the rf died so I had to do a quick switch till I can do the whole system over in the spring.
> 
> First off the bluetooth took 10 seconds to load and connect.. Awesome compared to the rf , but the rf is not even worth comparing. With no tuning really and I am still running passive this thing is GREAT. The sound is so crisp no noise and I am running high level in off a factory ford sync system. I hear so much more detail than I did before and all my gains on the 6-8 are at the lowest setting. The presets are great, set all your setting before your in the car and then try different one's to se what sounds best. I can not wait to switch my amps to the mosconi's and my front stage to the illusion c6 I have sitting in a box. I could only image how good it will sound. So for anyone who it wondering about the 6-8 it really is that good.


I concur fully. It is a great unit. Too bad I don't have any way to get a proper center without replacing it with the H800. Well, I guess I do have another box I could put into the chain that can do this but I am worried about inducing noise and I really don't have room under the seat to add another box either.


----------



## Thunderplains

I'm ordering the 6to8v8 today through Bing and JOey.. Looking forward to this after everything I have read..


----------



## palldat

james2266 said:


> I concur fully. It is a great unit. Too bad I don't have any way to get a proper center without replacing it with the H800. Well, I guess I do have another box I could put into the chain that can do this but I am worried about inducing noise and I really don't have room under the seat to add another box either.


You could add a 4to6 to gain the extra channels. That is what they have been telling me to do so I can do my active 3way front and rear with stereo subs


----------



## palldat

Do the extras for the 6to8 work with the v8 version as well? Or Do I need to rebuy the AMAS and Digital Multi car again?


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Do the extras for the 6to8 work with the v8 version as well? Or Do I need to rebuy the AMAS and Digital Multi car again?


They work with the new V8.


----------



## Thunderplains

cobb..
Glad to see you here.. A few questions, if you don't mind?
The DSP controller for the 6to8, what functionality does it provide?

I am coming from the BitOne.1, HOW do I achieve 24db BW slopes on the 6to8v8? (This is what I have been using for my application)

Any other tid bits of info? (I am going to install next week)

Thanks!


----------



## bertholomey

mark620 said:


> I Just wanted to give a quick review of the 6-8 from my experience so far . I have had it for over a year sitting in a box waiting to go in and replace my rf360.2. Well the rf died so I had to do a quick switch till I can do the whole system over in the spring.
> 
> First off the bluetooth took 10 seconds to load and connect.. Awesome compared to the rf , but the rf is not even worth comparing. With no tuning really and I am still running passive this thing is GREAT. The sound is so crisp no noise and I am running high level in off a factory ford sync system. I hear so much more detail than I did before and all my gains on the 6-8 are at the lowest setting. The presets are great, set all your setting before your in the car and then try different one's to se what sounds best. I can not wait to switch my amps to the mosconi's and my front stage to the illusion c6 I have sitting in a box. I could only image how good it will sound. So for anyone who it wondering about the 6-8 it really is that good.


I just installed the C6 components in my wife's vehicle this past weekend - haven't had a lot of time to listen to them yet, but I think you will be very impressed with them. Looking forward to seeing your impressions.


----------



## cobb2819

Thunderplains said:


> cobb..
> Glad to see you here.. A few questions, if you don't mind?
> The DSP controller for the 6to8, what functionality does it provide?
> 
> I am coming from the BitOne.1, HOW do I achieve 24db BW slopes on the 6to8v8? (This is what I have been using for my application)
> 
> Any other tid bits of info? (I am going to install next week)
> 
> Thanks!


Best advise I can recommend is download the software and play with it before install. Knowing is half the battle!! 

The controller is master volume, sub level control, Fade/Balance, Mute, and Preset Switching. 

As for the 24dB BW, In theory you can use a 12dB BW and a 12dB Variable Q with a Q Value of 1.00. This will net you a Q of .707 and give you a little control over the Q value. You could also do it with 2x 12dB Variable Q with one Q being .707 and the other at 1.00


----------



## Thunderplains

cobb2819 said:


> Best advise I can recommend is download the software and play with it before install. Knowing is half the battle!!


Yep.. have been to get the feel of it.. Mosconi needs to spice up the GUI a tad.. I feel like I am taking my Windows NT 3.1 MCSE test again 

Also, what is the consensus on output channels? I am guessing Mids on 1/2, tweets on 3/4, woofers on 5/6 and sub on 7?

And if my input is FL/FR/RL/RR into the unit, I am still a little confused on the input setup..


----------



## SQram

cobb2819 said:


> The controller is master volume, sub level control, Fade/Balance, Mute, and Preset Switching.


Quick question regarding the sub level control. At setting Sub: 0, is this fully attenuated relative to the other output channels, or it this at the same level as the others?

I haven't had time to measure the outputs yet...


----------



## [email protected]

we normally do 1-2 tweets, 3-4 midrange, 5-6 midbass, 7-8 sub


----------



## [email protected]

SQram said:


> Quick question regarding the sub level control. At setting Sub: 0, is this fully attenuated relative to the other output channels, or it this at the same level as the others?
> 
> I haven't had time to measure the outputs yet...


Seems like 0 is fully attenuated.


----------



## cobb2819

Thunderplains said:


> Yep.. have been to get the feel of it.. Mosconi needs to spice up the GUI a tad.. I feel like I am taking my Windows NT 3.1 MCSE test again
> 
> Also, what is the consensus on output channels? I am guessing Mids on 1/2, tweets on 3/4, woofers on 5/6 and sub on 7?
> 
> And if my input is FL/FR/RL/RR into the unit, I am still a little confused on the input setup..


Output config will vary depending on where you want your EQ capabilities to be. As for the mixer you just need to match your ins and outs in the mixer. So if in 1/2 needs to goto out 1/2, 3/4, & 5/6, then just put 100 in those boxes and 0 in the output 7/8 box. In 3/4 100% out 7/8 and 0 in the the other boxes, and then 0 in EVERYTHING else.


----------



## Thunderplains

[email protected] said:


> we normally do 1-2 tweets, 3-4 midrange, 5-6 midbass, 7-8 sub


Cool thanks JOey.. Not like the software says "over here!"


----------



## SouthSyde

Thunderplains said:


> Yep.. have been to get the feel of it.. Mosconi needs to spice up the GUI a tad.. I feel like I am taking my Windows NT 3.1 MCSE test again
> 
> Also, what is the consensus on output channels? I am guessing Mids on 1/2, tweets on 3/4, woofers on 5/6 and sub on 7?
> 
> And if my input is FL/FR/RL/RR into the unit, I am still a little confused on the input setup..


I do Midrange 1/2, MB 3/4, Tweets 5/6, Sub 7/8


----------



## james2266

SouthSyde said:


> I do Midrange 1/2, MB 3/4, Tweets 5/6, Sub 7/8


This is how I do it too.


----------



## Thunderplains

james2266 said:


> This is how I do it too.


Just wondering why? Limit on the mid bass EQ if on 5/6?


----------



## Offroader5

Thunderplains said:


> Just wondering why? Limit on the mid bass EQ if on 5/6?


5/6 & 7/8 doesn't have as many bands of adjustment as 1/2 & 3/4. I don't have tweeters, but if I did...I can't imagine they'd need nearly as much adjustment bands as a midrange or even a midbass (even though it seems midbass doesn't really needs as much either), so running the tweets on 5/6 leaves the other channels available for drivers that need the extra tweeking.


----------



## Thunderplains

in looking at at, I think I am going to go down the same route based on the freq adj
1/2 Mid Rng
3/4 Mid Bass
5/6 tweets
7 Sub


----------



## basher8621

I use 5/6 for tweeters. It has more then enough bands of eq.


----------



## Tetraag

I posted this in the choose my equipment section but did not get much in the way of answers

I am trying to decide between the 4to6 and the bit 10. I will be connecting to a factory head unit. When reading up on the description of the Audison I noticed the following:

"During the installation phase, after converting the analog signal into digital, bit Ten automatically reconstructs a digital full-bandwidth stereo signal; de-equalizes the frequency response and, if necessary, reconstructs the central and subwoofer channels."

Does the Mosconi offer the same capabilities? When I was playing with the software it appears as though you need the 6 to 8 to EQ the input signal,and even then it is a manual process. Am I missing something?

Are there any other significant differences between the 4 to 6 in the Bit Ten?


----------



## claytonzmvox

What HU would fit perfectly with a processor 6to8? I am looking to put an aftermarket HU. The HU of my car is HORRIBLE. I think of a Denon R10. I have no money to buy a DRZ or an MC MX5000 at the moment, so I want a cheaper solution. What do I suggest?


----------



## tonny

Or don't use a after marked head unit and use the AMAS module with the 6to8 and use a iPhone to stream your music, sounds really good, but don't use a android phone to stream that won't sound as good!


----------



## [email protected]

Hmm...


----------



## [email protected]

Tetraag said:


> I posted this in the choose my equipment section but did not get much in the way of answers
> 
> I am trying to decide between the 4to6 and the bit 10. I will be connecting to a factory head unit. When reading up on the description of the Audison I noticed the following:
> 
> "During the installation phase, after converting the analog signal into digital, bit Ten automatically reconstructs a digital full-bandwidth stereo signal; de-equalizes the frequency response and, if necessary, reconstructs the central and subwoofer channels."
> 
> Does the Mosconi offer the same capabilities? When I was playing with the software it appears as though you need the 6 to 8 to EQ the input signal,and even then it is a manual process. Am I missing something?
> 
> Are there any other significant differences between the 4 to 6 in the Bit Ten?



The eq on the input side is manual on the MOsconi pieces. The Bit is an auto eq. We have found the MOsconi to be more reliable and less noisy..


----------



## james2266

[email protected] said:


> The eq on the input side is manual on the MOsconi pieces. The Bit is an auto eq. We have found the MOsconi to be more reliable and less noisy..


Joey nailed it again!


----------



## Thunderplains

[email protected] said:


> Hmm...


Damn you.

ok spill it.. How? (That is awesome by the way)


----------



## tonny

You can desolder the volume control off the print board and make a extension cable between the pot meter and the print board and instal the knob somewhere else! Also you can mount the display away from the control unit.


----------



## claytonzmvox

tonny said:


> Or don't use a after marked head unit and use the AMAS module with the 6to8 and use a iPhone to stream your music, sounds really good, but don't use a android phone to stream that won't sound as good!



So you think the best option would I add the AMAS processor and change cellphone, I have a galaxy s4 and what has been said it does a good service!! I can no longer listen to that OEM player!! 

Some options HU with the processor, which already have heard! I am grateful if you can help!!


----------



## palldat

claytonzmvox said:


> So you think the best option would I add the AMAS processor and change cellphone, I have a galaxy s4 and what has been said it does a good service!! I can no longer listen to that OEM player!!
> 
> Some options HU with the processor, which already have heard! I am grateful if you can help!!


 I use my Galaxy Note 2 and Galaxy Note 10.1 and they both sound great through the AMAS via BT.


----------



## claytonzmvox

Who can sell me the AMAS and MULTI SPDIF to me?


----------



## Thunderplains

Finally got my 6to8v8 from JOey yesterday.. VERY much looking forward to putting this in and seeing how it compares to the BitOne I just ripped out.. Esp. with the high voltage out.

More to come..


----------



## quality_sound

Having owned a B1.1 and still owning my 6to8 I'll tell you flat out, it's night and day. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## Tetraag

[email protected] said:


> The eq on the input side is manual on the MOsconi pieces. The Bit is an auto eq. We have found the MOsconi to be more reliable and less noisy..


Joey, thanks for the reply! Am I also correct that the 4to6 does not allow you to EQ the input signal and the 6to8 does?

If so, I think it would make more sense to purchase the 628 so that I can scrub the processing from the factory head unit.


----------



## cobb2819

Tetraag said:


> Joey, thanks for the reply! Am I also correct that the 4to6 does not allow you to EQ the input signal and the 6to8 does?
> 
> If so, I think it would make more sense to purchase the 628 so that I can scrub the processing from the factory head unit.


You are correct.


----------



## SQram

I'm still a little confused about the sub level output when using the controller. At what setting is the sub out +/- 0dB with regards to the other outputs? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RonnyAndre

Have anyone made a diy mosSWITCH ? I'm wondering what switch i could use to make my own


----------



## [email protected]

I believe it is 15 is the max it is set on in the Levels in the software, and it goes down from there.
Jacob will correct this info if it is wrong, i hope... 




SQram said:


> I'm still a little confused about the sub level output when using the controller. At what setting is the sub out +/- 0dB with regards to the other outputs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Is that the switch for the presets for the 4to6, or something I haven't heard of?





RonnyAndre said:


> Have anyone made a diy mosSWITCH ? I'm wondering what switch i could use to make my own


----------



## silkk

I'm reading here that Android based phones do not exhibit such great SQ, but going for an iPhone is more of a safe bet. I'm using a Samsung Galaxy SII phone which with its stock Android 4.0.3 firmware sounded almost unacceptable (the signal was heavily modulated), but switching to a CyanogenMod 4.3.1 firmware version made a significant improvement (previously the sound had a very disturbing echo and music signal was clearly a compressed one, with a metallic tone). I'm currently using Poweramp software player. Can someone else share their experience with their phones/software players? I'm also considering trying out my new iPad Air with the DSP6to8.


----------



## palldat

silkk said:


> I'm reading here that Android based phones do not exhibit such great SQ, but going for an iPhone is more of a safe bet. I'm using a Samsung Galaxy SII phone which with its stock Android 4.0.3 firmware sounded almost unacceptable (the signal was heavily modulated), but switching to a CyanogenMod 4.3.1 firmware version made a significant improvement (previously the sound had a very disturbing echo and music signal was clearly a compressed one, with a metallic tone). I'm currently using Poweramp software player. Can someone else share their experience with their phones/software players? I'm also considering trying out my new iPad Air with the DSP6to8.


I am currently using both galaxy note 2 and 10.1. I am very satisfied with the quality. I believe it is up to the audio chip.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

Just installed my 6to8 and everything seemed perfect.. until my wife had to listen.. she said what is taht god awful noise? Apparently I can't hear it LOL.. so I stuck my head to the tweeter and sure enough a SUPER high pitched sound that is only heard when the car is running. It didn't seem to change when I revved the motor. I had mounted the 6to8 to metal and thought maybe that was it. So I made sure the body was not grounded. Still have the noise. I unhooked RCA from headunit source and noise was still there even with no input into the 6to8. I unhooked RCA from amp and noise was gone. I tried different RCA's but no change. The sound appears to be introduced from the 6to8 somewhere. I use a central ground point but this is a good 8ft away from the Mosconi. I have yet to try the ground jumper. Anyone else run into this? I am using it with a factory Mustang deck. I am also getting some hiss from the 6to8 that isn't horrible but you can hear it.


----------



## TJeep56

Unplug your input to the 6to8 and see if the noise still exists. If. It does, unplug the RCA feeding that set of speakers and see if it still has noise. What are you using for your hi-low? Maybe it's coming from further up the chain from that?... 
I would try to cut the oem ground and reground the 6to8 and the deck at the same location. Are you using passive crossovers? If so, remove the power plug from the 6to8 and see if your noise is still present. Crossover coils can pick up noise as well, although it's not very common.


----------



## Got-Four-Eights

TJeep56 said:


> Unplug your input to the 6to8 and see if the noise still exists. If. It does, unplug the RCA feeding that set of speakers and see if it still has noise. What are you using for your hi-low? Maybe it's coming from further up the chain from that?...
> I would try to cut the oem ground and reground the 6to8 and the deck at the same location. Are you using passive crossovers? If so, remove the power plug from the 6to8 and see if your noise is still present. Crossover coils can pick up noise as well, although it's not very common.


I put what I had tried in the post you read which is what you asked me to do just now. The noise is there with the source unhooked from the 6to8.. it only goes away if I unplug hte RCA going from the 6to8 over to the amplifier. Everything is active. Basically anytime I introduce the 6to8 into hte system I get noise.


----------



## cobb2819

Try the Jumper.

As for the hiss, you might need to attenuate the input signal going into the 6to8. Dropping the input pots on the side of the unit and re adjusting the gains on the 6to8 can eliminate this.


----------



## cobb2819

Also, what as the factory installed audio package in your mustang, are you running high level or low level into the 6to8?


----------



## DeanE10

Got-Four-Eights said:


> I put what I had tried in the post you read which is what you asked me to do just now. The noise is there with the source unhooked from the 6to8.. it only goes away if I unplug hte RCA going from the 6to8 over to the amplifier. Everything is active. Basically anytime I introduce the 6to8 into hte system I get noise.


Sorry man, just replied to your PM... Give that a shot and let me know if it helps. I know it worked well for me in the BMW.


----------



## palldat

[email protected] said:


> Hmm...


So I see the dial color was changed can the display bg color be changed as well? I want green on the screen and blue on the dial.


----------



## strakele

Can anyone confirm whether or not the 6to8V8 makes the same clicks and pops when making adjustments as the normal 6to8?


----------



## quality_sound

I don't see what difference the output Voltage would make. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## Thunderplains

quality_sound said:


> I don't see what difference the output Voltage would make.
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


lower noise floor. I am still tinkering, but getting to the point where my amps gains are almost down all the way. Think of it like putting a Tru SSLD8i after a regular 6to8.. driving higher voltage into the amp with a cleaned up signal


----------



## [email protected]

I think I noticed a little noise while adjusting the eq the other nite in mine. Is some little bit of noise only when moving a slider making adjustments an issue?




strakele said:


> Can anyone confirm whether or not the 6to8V8 makes the same clicks and pops when making adjustments as the normal 6to8?






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## strakele

It's not a dealbreaker. I used a regular 6to8 for a while before switching to the 360.3 for the stronger outputs. They both make a bit of noise when making adjustments, though the 6to8 made more. I was just wondering if they had cleaned it up any in the v8 version. Seems like all the car audio processors make some kind of noise when making adjustments, and it's just the pro audio pieces like the DBX or Rane units that don't.


----------



## quality_sound

Thunderplains said:


> lower noise floor. I am still tinkering, but getting to the point where my amps gains are almost down all the way. Think of it like putting a Tru SSLD8i after a regular 6to8.. driving higher voltage into the amp with a cleaned up signal


If the unit is generating the noise internally then the output Voltage isn't really going to matter. 

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## Thunderplains

Someone might know this.. Does the 6to8v8 put out 8v as the default voltage or or is the voltage effected by the level controls?


----------



## cobb2819

Voltage effected by lots of variables.


----------



## [email protected]

So, luckily, the 6to8 is a very quiet processor!!! 




quality_sound said:


> If the unit is generating the noise internally then the output Voltage isn't really going to matter.
> 
> Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk


----------



## strakele

Thunderplains said:


> Someone might know this.. Does the 6to8v8 put out 8v as the default voltage or or is the voltage effected by the level controls?


There's no 'default voltage.' Nothing puts out the max voltage it's rated for at anything other than max volume with no level/EQ cuts. Otherwise you'd have no volume control...


----------



## palldat

Can I upload the settings from my original 6to8 to a new 8v or do I need to reset everything?


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> Can I upload the settings from my original 6to8 to a new 8v or do I need to reset everything?



Nope, gonna have to start over.


----------



## crackinhedz

Well guys after enduring a brutal winter with an Audison Bit One sitting in my closet waiting to be installed in warmer weather, I had plenty of time reading reviews and seeing great looking installs (especially from SimplicityInSound) and decided to sell my Bit One (in classifieds if anyone interested) and buy the 6to8. 

Ive never done active, and the Bit One seemed a little more intimidating for my level of car audio knowlege. I noticed a consensus that the 6to8 would be easier to work with for someone like me. 


Do have a few questions though,

I thought I read on here somewhere that you can change the color of the controller knob instead of it being red. My car interior has a blue lighting, not a fan of any red illuminations. Is blue possible?

After downloading the software to play around with, I like it a little better than the Bit One. Obviously the GUI leaves a lot to be desired, I felt it easier to follow and understand. But I was curious, is there a User Manual somewhere I can read how to use? Could not find a manual from Mosconi website. 

Lastly, what would be ideal method for turning on the 6to8 (remote power)? Would I use a signal sense and set remote out to my amps (using relay)? Again, user manual would be helpful...but I guess theres probably one in the box when I buy it.


Thanks in advance for your guys' knowledge and great advice, can't wait!


----------



## ecs0set

Did anyone resolve the hiss issues? I'm getting the same problem with a slightly different Mosconi setup. I've tried all the basics re: testing for ground loops but the hiss is audible even with the input gains at 10%.

Cheers,

Ian.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> I thought I read on here somewhere that you can change the color of the controller knob instead of it being red. My car interior has a blue lighting, not a fan of any red illuminations. Is blue possible?


The RCD only has red LED lighting. 



crackinhedz said:


> After downloading the software to play around with, I like it a little better than the Bit One. Obviously the GUI leaves a lot to be desired, I felt it easier to follow and understand. But I was curious, is there a User Manual somewhere I can read how to use? Could not find a manual from Mosconi website.


You are essentially reading the manual. This thread has far more detail and hands on knowledge than any owners manual could contain. Plus there are a good amount of people in this thread that use these products daily. 



crackinhedz said:


> Lastly, what would be ideal method for turning on the 6to8 (remote power)? Would I use a signal sense and set remote out to my amps (using relay)? Again, user manual would be helpful...but I guess theres probably one in the box when I buy it.


What source unit are you using? Ideally, if you are feeding the 6to8 Low Level input, you will need a remote output to turn it on. It would be recommended to use a relay to turn on the 6to8 and the amplifiers from the same remote feed. If you are using the signal sensing with high level, then use the remote output from the 6to8 to feed a relay and turn on your amps.


----------



## crackinhedz

cobb2819 said:


> What source unit are you using? Ideally, if you are feeding the 6to8 Low Level input, you will need a remote output to turn it on. It would be recommended to use a relay to turn on the 6to8 and the amplifiers from the same remote feed. If you are using the signal sensing with high level, then use the remote output from the 6to8 to feed a relay and turn on your amps.


I am using a Pioneer x850bt, low level output (but high is an option). Claims 2V RMS via low level.

Two questions, are high vs low level more prone to clipping? Also the 6to8 states a minimum 2V input sensitivity, is that really the case? My Pioneer is 2V but I doubt thats constant or even true.

Thanks for your insight, I do realize there is more experience in real world application in this thread than any manual could ever provide but its a very long thread and in no specific order. 

I have also watched the Videos from the 6to8 software but there is no audio and no explanation of whats going on or more importantly, why? 

Just figured a user manual would help to better understand this unit.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> I am using a Pioneer x850bt, low level output (but high is an option). Claims 2V RMS via low level.
> 
> Two questions, are high vs low level more prone to clipping? Also the 6to8 states a minimum 2V input sensitivity, is that really the case? My Pioneer is 2V but I doubt thats constant or even true.


You'll be fine in this case. Just use the remote turn on output from your Pioneer to fire a relay, and use that to turn on your 6to8 and Amps. This relay might not be necessary, but better safe than sorry. 



crackinhedz said:


> I have also watched the Videos from the 6to8 software but there is no audio and no explanation of whats going on or more importantly, why?


IIRC, they're in German, or Italian. The software is pretty easy to figure out what it does, and if you have a specific question it's probably been answered here, or you can feel free to ask and we will be more than happy to assist you in your setup. The way I setup is probably different than Nick, who's probably different than Joey/Bing.


----------



## crackinhedz

Ok so im getting the V8 model, and my HU is 2V.

Any pros/cons to install near HU or back at the amps? Does it matter?


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> Ok so im getting the V8 model, and my HU is 2V.
> 
> Any pros/cons to install near HU or back at the amps? Does it matter?


Location doesn't matter, cable routing is what matters, as with any install.


----------



## UNBROKEN

palldat said:


> Can I upload the settings from my original 6to8 to a new 8v or do I need to reset everything?


All I did was screen shot each page of settings from the original unit and rewrite them into the v8 by hand. Didn't take that long. Some of the adjustment ranges, like on the level settings are larger so they won't just carry over if you load an old file into the new unit.


----------



## UNBROKEN

ecs0set said:


> Did anyone resolve the hiss issues? I'm getting the same problem with a slightly different Mosconi setup. I've tried all the basics re: testing for ground loops but the hiss is audible even with the input gains at 10%.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Ian.


I have the 6to8v8 and Mosconi AS amps...I have zero, and I mean zero hiss even at full volume. I've never had a system so quiet.


----------



## strakele

That's how I'm hoping mine will be with the One series amps.

On another note, does anyone know if the hardware supports adding incremental phase adjustment on the last 2 or 4 channels? For example, on the Helix DSP, if you set a certain channel as a subwoofer channel, it changes from 30 to 10 bands of EQ like the 6to8 but adds phase adjustment in 22.5 degree increments. With the slider design on the phase screen, it almost seems like this is something they were at least considering. Think this is something that could be added via firmware update? It would be super awesome.


----------



## cobb2819

Phase on the Mosconi software is 0 or 180 degrees.


----------



## strakele

I know that's how it is now. I was asking if it would theoretically be possible to add incremental adjustments via firmware update, or if the DSP chip's abilities were already "maxed out."


----------



## palldat

UNBROKEN said:


> All I did was screen shot each page of settings from the original unit and rewrite them into the v8 by hand. Didn't take that long. Some of the adjustment ranges, like on the level settings are larger so they won't just carry over if you load an old file into the new unit.


Thanks for the reply


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> I know that's how it is now. I was asking if it would theoretically be possible to add incremental adjustments via firmware update, or if the DSP chip's abilities were already "maxed out."


To the best of my knowledge, the only limitation is channel pairing. Other than that it's probably pretty open; However, has this been a common request as necessary...no.


----------



## strakele

Well then count this as an official request from me and several of my friends who run 6to8's


----------



## Thunderplains

I have an odd issue and it simply might be from a setting I forgot. The 6to8 is installed but when I start the car and the HU is off, and right when the car starts, you can hear that the amps are on, then in about 15-20 secs, they power off.. I did not have this issue with the bit one thats why I think it is a setting on the 6to8 that I am missing.


Any ideas? Driving me nuts


----------



## cobb2819

How are you feeding the 6to8? Factory amp and high level using the signal sense?


----------



## Thunderplains

cobb2819 said:


> How are you feeding the 6to8? Factory amp and high level using the signal sense?


Low level inputs on channel 1&2, channels 1-7 low level out.
Direct ground and power from battery, remote from HU and out to AMPs
tied together at harness point.


----------



## Mic10is

strakele said:


> Well then count this as an official request from me and several of my friends who run 6to8's


Ditto, Id love variable phase adjustment


----------



## cobb2819

Thunderplains said:


> Low level inputs on channel 1&2, channels 1-7 low level out.
> Direct ground and power from battery, remote from HU and out to AMPs
> tied together at harness point.


Signal Sense switch position is on SE or BTL?


----------



## Thunderplains

cobb2819 said:


> Signal Sense switch position is on SE or BTL?



I am guessing, but I think "SE"


----------



## cobb2819

Thunderplains said:


> I am guessing, but I think "SE"


try switching it to BTL. Also, is the 6to8 turning on, or just the amps?


----------



## captainobvious

I owned a 6to8 a while back and am definitely interested in acquiring a 6to8V8 now that the outputs have been beefed up. Just looking for some answers to a few questions to determine how to move forward.

1. Does the device still mute all output on any hint of a clipped signal?
2. Does it still have issues with losing USB connection?

3. What are you guys using as your digital source for connection to the toslink input on the 6to8? Here's what I'd like to achieve and hopefully you can make recommendations on what direction to go.
I want a quality source with a digital out to feed the DSP for cd playback (for competitions mainly). I also want to stream high res digital media to the unit for daily listening. I currently have an iphone 4s and would like to employ a tablet like the ipad/ipad mini.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> I owned a 6to8 a while back and am definitely interested in acquiring a 6to8V8 now that the outputs have been beefed up. Just looking for some answers to a few questions to determine how to move forward.
> 
> 1. Does the device still mute all output on any hint of a clipped signal?


If setup properly, this isn't an issue and never has been been. It's a protection circuit.



captainobvious said:


> 2. Does it still have issues with losing USB connection?


I think a lot of this has to do with the computer and not the hardware.



captainobvious said:


> 3. What are you guys using as your digital source for connection to the toslink input on the 6to8? Here's what I'd like to achieve and hopefully you can make recommendations on what direction to go. I want a quality source with a digital out to feed the DSP for cd playback (for competitions mainly). I also want to stream high res digital media to the unit for daily listening. I currently have an iphone 4s and would like to employ a tablet like the ipad/ipad mini.


Pure i20 for iOS integration, or the AMAS Bluetooth Streaming Interface from Mosconi. As for a CD Player...maybe someone can make a more modern day suggestion.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> If setup properly, this isn't an issue and never has been been. It's a protection circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> I think a lot of this has to do with the computer and not the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> Pure i20 for iOS integration, or the AMAS Bluetooth Streaming Interface from Mosconi. As for a CD Player...maybe someone can make a more modern day suggestion.



Thanks for the input 

A couple more questions for you since you're very familiar with the AMAS setup. 

If you have your cd player source connected via digital optical and you have the AMAS board for streaming bluetooth audio, does the remote controller allow you to select which source input on the DSP to play?

Does the remote controller also allow you to select your 1-4 presets on the DSP in this configuration as well? If all of this works well, I may be sold 

Thanks!


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> If you have your cd player source connected via digital optical and you have the AMAS board for streaming bluetooth audio, does the remote controller allow you to select which source input on the DSP to play?


No, Source selection is all done via the signal sensing on the board itself. To switch from CD to AMAS, you will need to pause the CD, and then the board will start looking for other inputs, then it will see the AMAS playing and stop on that one. To go back to CD, stop playing the AMAS and unpause the CD. 



captainobvious said:


> Does the remote controller also allow you to select your 1-4 presets on the DSP in this configuration as well? If all of this works well, I may be sold


Yes, it will allow preset selection along with Master Vol, Sub Level, Fade/Balance.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> If setup properly, this isn't an issue and never has been been. It's a protection circuit.






cobb2819 said:


> I think a lot of this has to do with the computer and not the hardware.


Can you elaborate? I'm unaware of many people who have _*not*_ experienced this issue.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Can you elaborate? I'm unaware of many people who have _*not*_ experienced this issue.


Not sure elaboration is necessary. We do not run into this as a main concern on the tech end. If people are experiencing this problem on a wide scale, then we don't hear about it regularly. I also always recommend the Bluetooth Module for tuning, just due to the data conflict with the AMAS. I have not personally run into this issue on any of the 6to8 units I have had, or any that I have installed. So that's one user with two computers and over 15 DSPs that I have worked on or installed personally and have never had a connection issue with my hardware using my two laptops (one Acer Netbook, and one MacBook booting into windows). This is why I am lead to believe that it is a driver / laptop / windows issue as a known "Bad" DSP that has issues can be run on a different laptop with no issues. 

Also...if the DSP is not up to date, you could see an issue there.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> Not sure elaboration is necessary. We do not run into this as a main concern on the tech end. If people are experiencing this problem on a wide scale, then we don't hear about it regularly. I also always recommend the Bluetooth Module for tuning, just due to the data conflict with the AMAS.


Well on the user end I can assure you it is and has been an issue. A brief glance through the large 6to8 thread on this site alone reveals a multitude of users who have all experienced the same USB disconnect issue. I though this was a common and well known issue at this point...? Has this never been raised as a user issue with Mosconi? I find that hard to believe. I had the most up to date software at the time and used 3 separate laptops on my own 6to8 and the same issue with all 3- one Acer and 2 IBM's.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Well on the user end I can assure you it is and has been an issue. A brief glance through the large 6to8 thread on this site alone reveals a multitude of users who have all experienced the same USB disconnect issue. I though this was a common and well known issue at this point...? Has this never been raised as a user issue with Mosconi? I find that hard to believe. I had the most up to date software at the time and used 3 separate laptops on my own 6to8 and the same issue with all 3- one Acer and 2 IBM's.


What firmware is installed on your 6to8?


----------



## strakele

I'll echo Steve's issues - when I had my 6to8, losing connection via Bluetooth was quite common and frustrating. Losing USB connection was much less frequent, but still happened. Using Win 7, always keeping software/firmware up to date. Girlfriend's 6to8 has same issues on an XP, Vista, and Win 8 laptop with both USB and Bluetooth. None of the above mentioned computers have had connectivity issues with other USB devices (including other laptop-tuned DSPs). Only with the 6to8.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> What firmware is installed on your 6to8?



I no longer have my 6to8 but was considering purchasing the newer v8 model.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> I no longer have my 6to8 but was considering purchasing the newer v8 model.


Ahh gotcha. Well as mentioned, USB reliability on modern firmware, 1.44+ and bluetooth on 1.44+ is great.


----------



## captainobvious

Good to hear it. It wasn't a deal breaker for me with the old one (or a future purchase)...more of an annoyance.

Regarding the spdif board, I just want to confirm...you can utilize all 3 digital inputs on the card, correct? Like a cd player with digital out...iPod with a digital out interface, etc?

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.


----------



## Mic10is

Ive been tuning via BT pretty much since I got it and I can only remember a very small handful of times that it dropped connection. It has been solid with connectivity for multiple hour tuning sessions.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Regarding the spdif board, I just want to confirm...you can utilize all 3 digital inputs on the card, correct? Like a cd player with digital out...iPod with a digital out interface, etc?



Indeed.


----------



## captainobvious

Mic10is said:


> Ive been tuning via BT pretty much since I got it and I can only remember a very small handful of times that it dropped connection. It has been solid with connectivity for multiple hour tuning sessions.


Unfortunately, I never used the BT connection for programming for comparison- only the USB. But like I said, it's not a deal breaker either way, it was just a minor annoyance.


----------



## bertholomey

Hey Jacob.....just to give a little feedback - not to be argumentative or disparaging of the product.......

I had the 6to8 with the updated firmware.....always used the BT module......on a Vista machine, Windows 7 machine, and mostly with my MBP using Parallels then VMWare Fusion.........the BT dropped connection every time I tuned.....at least once. For longer tuning sessions, it would drop a few times. 

I was tuning with a friend one night (trying to get done before driving 3 hours back home) - the car did its automatic shutdown when it is on battery power.....I turned it back on, re-initiated the software, and it wouldn't connect through BT. I rebooted the computer a few times to no avail. I finally was fed up enough that we pulled the 6to8 out, ran two additional RCAs, and finished the tune with my P99. I've never had an inclination to go back to a computer based DSP since. 

The other weird thing was that I could never get any of these 3 laptops to connect via USB. I tried it with the BT module still plugged in to the DSP and with it out........might have been a bad USB cable (it would make the noise that a USB cable is connected, but the DSP would never pick it up). 

All of this may have been out of my own ignorance - it might have worked if you or another technical person had been present, but with my experience and with what I could read, I was not able to get the equipment to work as intended. I'm happy to know that others have had good experience with it, for I believe it is a powerful unit and a fantastic solution for a lot of folks in the hobby.


----------



## papasin

After trying and using an MS-8, 6to8, 360.3, and an H800 (lol), I would say every processor has its pros and cons. When I used the 6to8 back in January 2013, bluetooth pairing wasn't the smoothest, but hooking it up directly via USB was a fair amount better. Having helped tune a couple 6to8v8s recently though WITH the latest s/w via bluetooth, both sessions were relatively seamless and smooth. Also helped someone with a 4to6 about 6 months ago (via USB directly) and didn't have dropouts then. I would say that the Mosconi software has improved in terms of reliability, so if I were asked which laptop-based only processor I would use, that would be one of the ones on the top of my list. My $0.02 FWIW.


----------



## DLO13

cobb2819 said:


> Not sure elaboration is necessary. We do not run into this as a main concern on the tech end. If people are experiencing this problem on a wide scale, then we don't hear about it regularly. I also always recommend the Bluetooth Module for tuning, just due to the data conflict with the AMAS. I have not personally run into this issue on any of the 6to8 units I have had, or any that I have installed. So that's one user with two computers and over 15 DSPs that I have worked on or installed personally and have never had a connection issue with my hardware using my two laptops (one Acer Netbook, and one MacBook booting into windows). This is why I am lead to believe that it is a driver / laptop / windows issue as a known "Bad" DSP that has issues can be run on a different laptop with no issues.
> 
> Also...if the DSP is not up to date, you could see an issue there.


THE USB ports voltage could potentially cause the issue.
Some ports have a higher voltage than others. Also, power saving features may cause the connection to drop. ( I am unsure of how the 6to8 talks to the computer, but the connection may not remain 100% active ).
I would highly recommend that anyone using a laptop to tune do the following...

Open the run window (Start > Run)
In the run window, type "devmgmt.msc" (no quotes)
Expand the "Universal Serial Bus Controllers" field
Double click on any of the USB Root Hub options
Select the Power Management Tab
Uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"









Hopefully this helps resolve the issue that some people are having.


----------



## captainobvious

Nice tip there. I'll be sure to do that with mine. 

BTW as an update I DID acquire a 6to8V8 with AMAS and digital board. With the controller I feel it's the best complete package available on the market currently. You certainly pay for it, but it's extremely robust.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Only time I use the BT module is when I'm outside the vehicle tuning with an RTA. I have a USB mini cable permanely run to the back using a PAC USBCBL And found a USB male to male at Discount Electronics for $3. I just plug in up front and use my Dell Venue 11 tablet for hours of easy tuning. Maybe the BT is not meant to be a long term solution?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

captainobvious said:


> Nice tip there. I'll be sure to do that with mine.
> 
> BTW as an update I DID acquire a 6to8V8 with AMAS and digital board. With the controller I feel it's the best complete package available on the market currently. You certainly pay for it, but it's extremely robust.


I would agree. Though I don't have my AMAS yet, I think what I have is the best setup I could ask for.

P.S. I also got the microphone. When a call comes in, you answer like normal and the audio is handled by the 6to8 as it acts like any other BT mic/speaker. AMAS is required to make this work though.


----------



## palldat

So I have a question regarding the reset of the controller. When I reset it last night the volume went waaaaaaaay up and I had to power off the amps to protect the speakers.

I have noticed that the volume level tends to drift down after a little bit of time. Is there some way to set the volume after this process or is there a way to manually adjust it?


----------



## tonny

That means you are boosting to much some where and you are asking more output then the unit can deliver… so you should look after your setting or lower the levels in the dsp! 

When resetting the controller volume everything will be reset. When doing that I always switch off the amp's and after that is down turn down the volume on the controller also turn the sub level to what in needs to be after that you can turn on the amp's and you have a good sound again!


----------



## cobb2819

tonny said:


> That means you are boosting to much some where and you are asking more output then the unit can deliver… so you should look after your setting or lower the levels in the dsp!
> 
> When resetting the controller volume everything will be reset. When doing that I always switch off the amp's and after that is down turn down the volume on the controller also turn the sub level to what in needs to be after that you can turn on the amp's and you have a good sound again!


More so you should probably lower your amp gains so you don't have to attenuate the processor output levels as much, or...just mute/pause your source audio when resetting the control volume.


----------



## tonny

cobb2819 said:


> More so you should probably lower your amp gains so you don't have to attenuate the processor output levels as much, or...just mute/pause your source audio when resetting the control volume.



It is the output form the dsp you drive in to clipping the unit is prevented so it could not happen and will lower the volume and is compressing the sound by resetting the volume controller you also reset the lowering off the volume… lowering the amp gains will not solve the problem as that you will drive the 6to8 even more in to the clipping and the problem gets even more! 
Lowering the output levels form the dsp will prevent the dsp driven in to clipping, look at the frequentie graph you can see in the software there may not be any point which is above the 0db line! 

When you reset the volume controller you can get some loud pops an noise sounds which can kill your speakers so turn off the amp's is the best thing to do!


----------



## palldat

cobb2819 said:


> More so you should probably lower your amp gains so you don't have to attenuate the processor output levels as much, or...just mute/pause your source audio when resetting the control volume.


 Interesting...I will try that. I just added 2 amps and did not change anything on the 6to8.

BIG Jim is going to try and adjust the levels for me but maybe that was my problem with output.


----------



## cobb2819

tonny said:


> It is the output form the dsp you drive in to clipping the unit is prevented so it could not happen and will lower the volume and is compressing the sound by resetting the volume controller you also reset the lowering off the volume… lowering the amp gains will not solve the problem as that you will drive the 6to8 even more in to the clipping and the problem gets even more!
> Lowering the output levels form the dsp will prevent the dsp driven in to clipping, look at the frequentie graph you can see in the software there may not be any point which is above the 0db line!
> 
> When you reset the volume controller you can get some loud pops an noise sounds which can kill your speakers so turn off the amp's is the best thing to do!


But even when your output level is attenuated in the DSP, the recalibration within the DSP happens anytime you boost a frequency range. So lets say you have no attenuation on the output levels (set at 0db), and you boost a frequency in the eq, the voltage goes up. Let it sit for a few moments and reset the EQ back to 0db, the voltage is much lower than your initial starting point, until you "Reset Remote Control Level". Now...lets say you drop the output level of the DSP to -10db. Boost the same frequency, voltage goes up, let it sit, and drop the frequency back to 0db, your voltage is much lower until you "Reset Remote Control Level". 

What I did find out however was that when boosting an EQ frequency, it does not necessarily ONLY boost the one range, it attenuates all the other voltages. From there once your output is smoothed out, you will need to reset your output levels. So it appears that to eliminate the possibility of creating a clipped frequency range from nothing, the DSP counters boost with widespread cut.


----------



## strakele

Does any of that apply if you're not using the remote control?

What will happen if I click it if I have no controller?

Does it change any of the level settings that you see or is it just internal stuff that the user can't control?


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> Does any of that apply if you're not using the remote control?
> 
> What will happen if I click it if I have no controller?
> 
> Does it change any of the level settings that you see or is it just internal stuff that the user can't control?


It's internal stuff that the user can't see. Basically it'll reset all the voltage limits until you adjust volume on your source. I'm using it on the bench without an RCD hooked up, and it was doing the same thing my car does. Ramps up volume until something changes. In this case, when I sweep the tone generator, the output voltage starts to settle back down from full tilt. In my car with the RCD, as soon as I touch the RCD vol knob, it drops back down to it's set levels and vol attenuation.


----------



## strakele

So is this something we should keep resetting every so often? It'll change in relation to the input signal in addition to what adjustments you make?

So if I finish making a tune that I'm happy with and have some EQ cuts and maybe a couple boosts, should I reset it once I'm done? 

And then it will continue to adjust itself in relation to input voltage?


----------



## cobb2819

After making adjustments it might not make a difference unless you boost something, and then remove the boost, then it'll move some voltages back towards the un boosted levels. Best suggestions would be to just do naturally what the software does and try and make your adjustments with attenuation, and not boost.


----------



## palldat

I had not changed anything except to change amp levels. Not much.

I currently only have the levels at half level or less.


----------



## strakele

So assuming I have no boosts in my EQ, I'll always have max voltage available?


----------



## cobb2819

Well the dsp won't be forcing attenuation. In all my testing with a signal generator, I was getting close to max output depending on which dsp I was running. As soon as eq boosting occurred, average voltage dropped. Now, voltage with music is far different than with a signal generator. 

I'll be doing more testing tomorrow with music as opposed to a maximum fixed voltage into the dsp just within the input voltage threshold.


----------



## strakele

Interested to hear what you find. Thanks for doing the testing. I'll be installing my V8 this week.


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> Interested to hear what you find. Thanks for doing the testing. I'll be installing my V8 this week.



You'll like the v8, it's a gnarly little bastard.


----------



## captainobvious

Oh snap, I didn't know you picked one up too Gray- sweet!

Are you running an RCD with yours as well?


----------



## strakele

Nope, just base unit with Bluetooth antenna for tuning/swapping presets.


----------



## rcurley55

So this thread is getting a little long and I'm a little more than confused here. If you have just the 6to8 and you want to tune over bluetooth, then all you need to add is MOS-BTM?

Now if I want to stream over bluetooth, I need to add the DSP-AMAS + SP-DIF Multi?

What is the msrp for those items?


----------



## captainobvious

http://coinslot.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/gladen_mosconi_2013.pdf

This probably isn't accurate but gets you in the ballpark


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> So this thread is getting a little long and I'm a little more than confused here. If you have just the 6to8 and you want to tune over bluetooth, then all you need to add is MOS-BTM?
> 
> Now if I want to stream over bluetooth, I need to add the DSP-AMAS + SP-DIF Multi?


Yes, you are correct, but with the AMAS/SP-Dif Multi, you will ALSO want the MOS-BTM for programming. This will allow you to use a bluetooth devices for programming while streaming from a different device. Also, the AMAS and USB have issues working together, so the BTM is a LOT more reliable. 



rcurley55 said:


> What is the msrp for those items?


MOS-BTM - $99
DSP-AMAS - $449
SP-DIF Multi - $299


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> Yes, you are correct, but with the AMAS/SP-Dif Multi, you will ALSO want the MOS-BTM for programming. This will allow you to use a bluetooth devices for programming while streaming from a different device. Also, the AMAS and USB have issues working together, so the BTM is a LOT more reliable.
> 
> 
> 
> MOS-BTM - $99
> DSP-AMAS - $449
> SP-DIF Multi - $299


So I'm looking at an MSRP of $750 just to add streaming


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> Yes, you are correct, but with the AMAS/SP-Dif Multi, you will ALSO want the MOS-BTM for programming. This will allow you to use a bluetooth devices for programming while streaming from a different device. *Also, the AMAS and USB have issues working together, so the BTM is a LOT more reliable. *
> 
> 
> 
> MOS-BTM - $99
> DSP-AMAS - $449
> SP-DIF Multi - $299



Can you elaborate or link to previous posts about this? I currently have the 6to8V8 with AMAS and digital multi but no MOS-BTM. 
Also, I've been finding that my audio over AMAS cuts in and out frequently (I do have the antenna kit installed).

Thanks


----------



## captainobvious

rcurley55 said:


> So I'm looking at an MSRP of $750 just to add streaming


You also add optical and coax digital inputs as well.


----------



## strakele

Steve where is your 6to8 mounted? I would expect it to be better since yours is a hatch, but I know in my car with my 3sixty mounted in the trunk, streaming over bluetooth lost connection quite frequently unless I put the phone it was streaming from in the back seat. Music is a lot of data to be sending over BT vs just connecting to tune..


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Can you elaborate or link to previous posts about this? I currently have the 6to8V8 with AMAS and digital multi but no MOS-BTM.


Well there was a sticker on the AMAS package that had to be ripped to open the bag that states USB no longer functions with the AMAS installed. While this is not 100% true, the BTM is far more reliable. 



captainobvious said:


> Also, I've been finding that my audio over AMAS cuts in and out frequently (I do have the antenna kit installed).
> 
> Thanks


You might have to adjust the sensitivity slider in the mixer if you are using AUX Optical to trigger the AMAS module. This slider is what sets the signal trigger based on input signal. If you are not using the RCD or RC-Mini, then I would set your vol on your device to one or two clicks above 0%, and set the slider to trigger the AUX. Once that threshold it set, you should be fine with any device vol setting above that.


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> So I'm looking at an MSRP of $750 just to add streaming


No, you're looking at $750 for High Resolution Bluetooth Streaming with SP-Dif capability via Digital Coax and Toslink.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> No, you're looking at $750 for High Resolution Bluetooth Streaming with SP-Dif capability via Digital Coax and Toslink.


For my application, I don't need the optical input. The reviews on the streaming component have been stellar, so I'm sure it's a good value prop to those who have high-resolution files and/or want the optical capability. No disrespect meant 

I'm sure this will make people cringe - I just want to stream some MP3s from my iPhone - nothing special!


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> I'm sure this will make people cringe - I just want to stream some MP3s from my iPhone - nothing special!


I can assure you that once you start streaming your files, you'll realize you want better quality files, then you'll want 16bit/44.1k files, then you'll be buying and downloading FLAC and ALAC files in 24b/192k!! Then you'll be glad that your iPhone downsamples a High Resolution file instead of just streams over a 192k mp3 file. It's a slippery slope, you'll be hooked before you know it.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> I can assure you that once you start streaming your files, you'll realize you want better quality files, then you'll want 16bit/44.1k files, then you'll be buying and downloading FLAC and ALAC files in 24b/192k!! Then you'll be glad that your iPhone downsamples a High Resolution file instead of just streams over a 192k mp3 file. It's a slippery slope, you'll be hooked before you know it.


I am sure you are correct. Which is why I'm going to avoid the situation entirely!! First I need to get a 6to8...


----------



## palldat

I can attest to the fact that my 6to8 can stream bluetooth with no drops in my car and the unit is in the trunk next to my amps. The quality is amazing. I rarely have drops while tuning and streaming. The drops would be via tuning and not streaming.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> Well there was a sticker on the AMAS package that had to be ripped to open the bag that states USB no longer functions with the AMAS installed. While this is not 100% true, the BTM is far more reliable.


Ahhh, I bought mine second hand so that's why I didn't see that. While it has been a little finnicky, I've been using the USB port to setup and program. Guess I should be looking for the BTM to pop in there then. Good to know and thanks for the heads up.



cobb2819 said:


> You might have to adjust the sensitivity slider in the mixer if you are using AUX Optical to trigger the AMAS module. This slider is what sets the signal trigger based on input signal. If you are not using the RCD or RC-Mini, then I would set your vol on your device to one or two clicks above 0%, and set the slider to trigger the AUX. Once that threshold it set, you should be fine with any device vol setting above that.


Hmm...I guess I need to figure that portion out. I've attached 2 screenshots of my mixer setup. The first is the "Main" portion and the second is the "Aux Optical".
I have "enable signal trigger on sp-dif" checked but the slider is at minimum. How do you properly adjust the sensitivity slider? Just raise it until it's not cutting out anymore? Will this increase signal output (volume) as well?

FYI- I am using the RCD unit. 


Thanks !


----------



## captainobvious

strakele said:


> Steve where is your 6to8 mounted? I would expect it to be better since yours is a hatch, but I know in my car with my 3sixty mounted in the trunk, streaming over bluetooth lost connection quite frequently unless I put the phone it was streaming from in the back seat. Music is a lot of data to be sending over BT vs just connecting to tune..


Mine is in the rear corner of the hatch behind a panel. The antenna is also behind the panel so I'm not sure how effective (or not) it is in that spot. I did test it in my house prior though and walked as much as 40 feet away and it was uber clean and had no drops. I'll bet it's just a sensitivity thing like Cobb said, but if after adjusting I still have issues, I'll get that antenna moved more toward the front of the vehicle. I'm sure it's not an optimal location where I have it now...it was just convenient at the time.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Hmm...I guess I need to figure that portion out. I've attached 2 screenshots of my mixer setup. The first is the "Main" portion and the second is the "Aux Optical".
> I have "enable signal trigger on sp-dif" checked but the slider is at minimum. How do you properly adjust the sensitivity slider? Just raise it until it's not cutting out anymore? Will this increase signal output (volume) as well?


Output Voltage will not be effected as the sensitivity slider is just a trigger. just adjust it until your audio stops dropping, and you should be good to go.


----------



## cobb2819

captainobvious said:


> Mine is in the rear corner of the hatch behind a panel. The antenna is also behind the panel so I'm not sure how effective (or not) it is in that spot. I did test it in my house prior though and walked as much as 40 feet away and it was uber clean and had no drops. I'll bet it's just a sensitivity thing like Cobb said, but if after adjusting I still have issues, I'll get that antenna moved more toward the front of the vehicle. I'm sure it's not an optimal location where I have it now...it was just convenient at the time.


I would recommend installing the antenna extension that is included with the AMAS to move the antenna closer to the cabin of the vehicle, this might able help the issue.


----------



## strakele

Ok so I got the V8 installed this weekend.

First off, the unit itself is completely silent unlike the first one I had, so that's awesome.

Next, I noticed there is now the ability to boost channel levels above 0dB in the software. Is this handled similarly to boosting an EQ band where it'll reduce voltage on the other channels? Or is it a legitimate boost that will increase output voltage?

What is the "official" way to set the input sensitivity to get the most output? What I've always done was play a very dynamic song at max volume, then turn down the pot till it never cuts out. After installing the 6to8v8, I was pretty happy with the volume I was getting, but then I remembered the input sensitivity pot and did the above method to set it, and ended up turning it down about 10dB, so now I'm missing some output.

I start getting some clearly audible noise floor out of my One 120.4 running the mids/tweets if the gain is set above the 1/4 or so that it's at now.


----------



## captainobvious

cobb2819 said:


> Output Voltage will not be effected as the sensitivity slider is just a trigger. just adjust it until your audio stops dropping, and you should be good to go.





cobb2819 said:


> I would recommend installing the antenna extension that is included with the AMAS to move the antenna closer to the cabin of the vehicle, this might able help the issue.



Good to know. I'll work on both of these suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> Ok so I got the V8 installed this weekend.
> 
> First off, the unit itself is completely silent unlike the first one I had, so that's awesome.
> 
> Next, I noticed there is now the ability to boost channel levels above 0dB in the software. Is this handled similarly to boosting an EQ band where it'll reduce voltage on the other channels? Or is it a legitimate boost that will increase output voltage?


If I remember my testing the other day, the +6dB is the line driver portion of the v8. It is not the same as the EQ portion.



strakele said:


> What is the "official" way to set the input sensitivity to get the most output? What I've always done was play a very dynamic song at max volume, then turn down the pot till it never cuts out. After installing the 6to8v8, I was pretty happy with the volume I was getting, but then I remembered the input sensitivity pot and did the above method to set it, and ended up turning it down about 10dB, so now I'm missing some output.
> 
> I start getting some clearly audible noise floor out of my One 120.4 running the mids/tweets if the gain is set above the 1/4 or so that it's at now.


What head unit are you running that is requiring you to drop input levels that much?


----------



## strakele

So I can boost levels up to 6dB safely? Cool.

I'm using a run-of-the-mill Alpine CDA-9887. Tested by members here to do a clean 4v with no clipping at max volume.


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> So I can boost levels up to 6dB safely? Cool.
> 
> I'm using a run-of-the-mill Alpine CDA-9887. Tested by members here to do a clean 4v with no clipping at max volume.


Yes, you can safely boost levels, but make sure to scope it to verify in your install.


----------



## strakele

Ok. That'll at least give me a good chunk of the lost volume back.


----------



## invecs

Guys,

I have a question regarding the use of the adustable q crossover and on cascading filters of the 6to8.

I'm sure that cascading 2 second order Butterworth would produce a 4th order Linkwitz Riley.

But how do I produce other slopes and alignments? I am currently just adding up the slopes to produce a steeper slope. Is this the correct way to do it?

I've done a bit of research and found these values:

For a 3rd order butterworth: 1st order with a q of .5 and a second order with a q of 1

For a 4th order butterworth: 2nd order with a q of .541 and another second order with a q of 1.31

Are these correct?

Thanks.


----------



## strakele

I didn't think you could change the Q of the crossover unless it was set to custom. Just do 2 12dB BW slopes and call it a day.

If you look at the frequency response chart, it'll show that doing a pair of 12dB BW slopes will be different than a pair of 12dB LR slopes.


----------



## SQram

cobb2819 said:


> I can assure you that once you start streaming your files, you'll realize you want better quality files, then you'll want 16bit/44.1k files, then you'll be buying and downloading FLAC and ALAC files in 24b/192k!! Then you'll be glad that your iPhone downsamples a High Resolution file instead of just streams over a 192k mp3 file. It's a slippery slope, you'll be hooked before you know it.


I can definitely attest to this.

I originally bought the 6to8 for it's processing power and ran it bare bones for several months. As usual I got the itch to try something new just out of curiosity so I ordered the AMAS, optical card, blutooth chip, and controller. The 6to8 has now changed the way I listen to music...

All my music is now on my phone/ipad, no more CD's. I buy as much high resolution music as I can, I can't tell the difference between streaming a high rez file and the original CD. It's that good.

I love the fact that I don't have to dock/plug in my phone to the audio chain, PITA in my opinion. The 6to8 has never dropped a signal while playing music, however it did drop my laptop/tuning connection one time.

Long story short, if I were to plan an entirely new stereo system, I wouldn't even install a new head unit, I'd mount the 6to8/AMAS in the trunk, connect it to the amps and be done with it. 

Orrrrr....Ipad/Tablet in the dash, Bluetooth to the 6to8 in the trunk. Only thing I'm not too sure about is how to turn the 6to8 on without the remote wire from the H/U.


----------



## BigRed

Anybody run the mini controller?


----------



## palldat

SQram said:


> I can definitely attest to this.
> 
> I originally bought the 6to8 for it's processing power and ran it bare bones for several months. As usual I got the itch to try something new just out of curiosity so I ordered the AMAS, optical card, blutooth chip, and controller. The 6to8 has now changed the way I listen to music...
> 
> All my music is now on my phone/ipad, no more CD's. I buy as much high resolution music as I can, I can't tell the difference between streaming a high rez file and the original CD. It's that good.
> 
> I love the fact that I don't have to dock/plug in my phone to the audio chain, PITA in my opinion. The 6to8 has never dropped a signal while playing music, however it did drop my laptop/tuning connection one time.
> 
> Long story short, if I were to plan an entirely new stereo system, I wouldn't even install a new head unit, I'd mount the 6to8/AMAS in the trunk, connect it to the amps and be done with it.
> 
> Orrrrr....Ipad/Tablet in the dash, Bluetooth to the 6to8 in the trunk. Only thing I'm not too sure about is how to turn the 6to8 on without the remote wire from the H/U.


I am there now....you have hit the nail on the head. I wired a remote lead to an unused switch on the console and wired it to acc and I am good to go.


----------



## captainobvious

BigRed said:


> Anybody run the mini controller?


Are you referring to the RCD?

I have one, but not sure if it's classified as the "mini" version...? I haven't been successful finding pics showing the difference.

EDIT: I believe I have the "slim" version, but not the mini version with no display.


----------



## papasin

captainobvious said:


> Are you referring to the RCD?
> 
> I have one, but not sure if it's classified as the "mini" version...? I haven't been successful finding pics showing the difference.
> 
> EDIT: I believe I have the "slim" version, but not the mini version with no display.


Jim is referring to this one Steve.


----------



## quality_sound

How are you using high resolution files on your iPad? I can't get mine to even load anything that I consider high resolution.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

ALAC won't load?


----------



## Corock

I just had my V8 installed by a professional installer and they tuned it as well. I have the RC and would like to start playing with the DSP and create other presets. If I connect my laptop will the software load the settings they put into the DSP, or will I have to get the file from them?


----------



## edzyy

Anyone here using the seagate wireless plus drive? http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/wireless-plus-140213-a/

I was hoping I could stream from the drive to ipad and have the ipad stream to the dsp.


----------



## ALL4SQ

Corock said:


> I just had my V8 installed by a professional installer and they tuned it as well. I have the RC and would like to start playing with the DSP and create other presets. If I connect my laptop will the software load the settings they put into the DSP, or will I have to get the file from them?


After the Laptop connects with the 6 to 8 a pop up will appear asking what you want to do. You want to select " from the 6 to 8 to the console". This will load the presets from the 6 to 8 onto your laptop and allow you to make changes.
As you make changes to the presets they are being saved in the 6 to 8. You have the option of also saving them on your laptops hard drive. 

The only time I used the pop up option " from the console to the 6 to 8 was when I was updating the 6 to 8 software. 

This is what worked for me. I'm sure someone will have another opinion. They always do here on Diyma.


----------



## palldat

edzyy said:


> Anyone here using the seagate wireless plus drive? Wireless Plus, Wireless Hard Drive, iPad Hard Drive | Seagate
> 
> I was hoping I could stream from the drive to ipad and have the ipad stream to the dsp.


I tried it but it kept dropping the wifi signal on my galaxy note 10.1

I switched to the patriot gauntlet node and was happy with connection but the software is clunky.

Ended up running a 3tb drive via toslink to my 6to8.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

HDD with toslink? Where did you find that?


----------



## palldat

Media player


----------



## DLO13

palldat said:


> Media player


Western Digital Media Player?
What are you viewing the files on to navigate thru the drive?


----------



## dgr932

DLO13 said:


> Western Digital Media Player?
> What are you viewing the files on to navigate thru the drive?


Same question as DLO13's question. What are you viewing the files on the drive with?


----------



## DLO13

maybe the Mede8er with the galaxy tab?


----------



## palldat

DLO13 said:


> maybe the Mede8er with the galaxy tab?


Finally someone has looked. The answer is yes but I have 9.7in display for the mede8er. The galaxy tab is connected via bluetooth. So I have essentially 2 source units, 3 if you countmy phone.


----------



## DLO13

I wasn't sure, but i thought you had your car at beach autosound and i thought i remembered seeing a screen for a PC... but wasn't sure - figured you might be using the tab as your display now. 

Thanks for clearing it up.

I wanted to ask you more about the mede8er, but I dont want to spam the thread.


----------



## captainobvious

strakele said:


> So I can boost levels up to 6dB safely? Cool.
> 
> I'm using a run-of-the-mill Alpine CDA-9887. Tested by members here to do a clean 4v with no clipping at max volume.





cobb2819 said:


> Yes, you can safely boost levels, but make sure to scope it to verify in your install.





strakele said:


> Ok. That'll at least give me a good chunk of the lost volume back.



What's the best method when using the digital input and BT streaming only? I'm assuming there is no adjustment to be made with the input sensitivity, so it should be at max input already, yes? So is it best to simply bump all of the level gains in software to the 6db max? Just wondering if I'd still run into clip/muting with the digital setup.
I'm setting all of the gain structure outside of the car with the equipment hooked up to my DC bench supply so I'll put the oscope on the outputs with some test signals as well to verify.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

I set the Aux-Optical inputs at 50% sensitivity and then move the slider upwards until your source works well. I am using my Galaxy Note 3 as source most of the time. I use Poweramp as the music player. FLAC is as good as CD.


----------



## captainobvious

Any reason *not *to use the digital inputs at 100% ? Seems you'd be losing clean unclipped signal voltage out of the dsp if you go lower, no?


----------



## strakele

I think Rick was probably talking about the sensitivity slider in the software, not the knob. Chad confirmed the sensitivity knob on the unit does nothing when using digital input.

And yeah, mine has been fine with all the speaker levels turned up in software.


----------



## captainobvious

Thanks Gray.

I was reading some of the comments about the "Reset Remote Control Level" button in the software a page or two back...


I played around with EQ settings while taking some measurements for clipping. Saw that output was around 7.75v (on my 6to8v8 with Level at max 6db on all outputs) before EQ. Found (as Cobb said) that when boosting EQ output, the AC voltage on RCA outs will increase to a point. When I reset the EQ sliders back to zero, the overall output dropped way down (under 1v). _*So*_... when you boost EQ, it cuts voltage elsewhere. When you zero out EQ again, the cuts in voltage are still applied and so doing the "Reset Remote Control Level" is what brings everything back to proper levels again. 

I guess what I'm unclear on is- In what condition should it be reset? Only when you want to reset your EQ settings and start fresh? 

What exactly does it do?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

strakele said:


> I think Rick was probably talking about the sensitivity slider in the software, not the knob. Chad confirmed the sensitivity knob on the unit does nothing when using digital input.
> 
> And yeah, mine has been fine with all the speaker levels turned up in software.


Gray, I was not referring to the knob. I was referring to the input sensitivity in the software. You can type in a percentage. Mine is set to 50% but you can use what you like.


----------



## strakele

strakele said:


> I think Rick was probably talking about the sensitivity slider in the software, not the knob.





fahrfrompuken said:


> Gray, I was not referring to the knob. I was referring to the input sensitivity in the software.




That's exactly what I said


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Yeah, what he said...


----------



## fahrfrompuken




----------



## captainobvious

strakele said:


> I think Rick was probably talking about the *sensitivity slider* in the software, not the knob.





fahrfrompuken said:


> Gray, I was not referring to the knob. I was referring to the input sensitivity in the software. You can type in a percentage. Mine is set to 50% but you can use what you like.


I think were talking about two different things. The slider is for the AMAS bluetooth sensitivity between the source and antenna. What 

I was referring to the the digital input. Why use 50% on the digital input sensitivity vs 100%? You don't hurt anything by going to 100% as its a digital signal, right?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Not sure. I started there and it worked so there it has stayed.


----------



## strakele

What just happened?

Went out to the car tonight to do a little tuning and listen to a song I just heard on my computer. Car sounds totally jacked up. Way right biased, weird phase sounding, weird FR. Check and make sure iPod is fully connected. Pull out phone and swap to different preset - same thing. Connect laptop to check settings. Everything looks normal. Levels/phase/time alignment, etc. Reset level control. Still jacked up. Seemed to be a little change when I clicked the down arrow on midrange phase, even though they were already at 0. IDK if that was even real or I was just hearing stuff. Turned system off and back on. Still weird.

Muted all channels. Start turning each on one by one. Everything normal except left midrange. When only my left midrange output was active (channel 3) both the left and right midrange made noise.. and the right was louder. Only that one channel unmuted in software, I hear "this is the left channel" out of both midrange speakers, right sounded louder, and sounded like there was more high frequency content as well. Started swapping RCAs around. Same thing. WTF? Cycled 2ch/4ch switch on the amp (One 120.4). Same deal. Made sure there was nothing weird in the mixer. Turned channels on and off a bunch of times. No idea what the hell is going on. Getting very frustrated. Turn all channels back on, ready to quit and go inside. Suddenly back to normal. Left is only left, right is only right, each channel is its own again, music sounds right, everything is ok.










I have no idea.


----------



## quality_sound

Sounds like a problem with the amp or processor. Only thing you could have tried would to swap the mid and midbass channels on the amp.


----------



## strakele

This particular amp runs mids and tweets. Didn't change speaker wire, but did change RCAs (i.e. switched 1/2 and 3/4 so mids started getting tweeter signal). Only one mid played per channel like that.


----------



## captainobvious

Thats bizzare. Did u try doing a factory reset and then load your lapop saved presets back in from in? sounds like something got corrupt.


----------



## strakele

How do I do a factory reset? Is that just doing a 'copy from console to DSP' without having anything loaded?


----------



## DeanE10

strakele said:


> How do I do a factory reset? Is that just doing a 'copy from console to DSP' without having anything loaded?


That will accomplish the same thing... Don't have any of the presets loaded and click the button.


----------



## cobb2819

You swapped the RCAs and the same speaker wigged out, or did the sound (or lack of sound) move to the other side?


----------



## strakele

When I sent ch3/4 on the amp the signal from ch1/2 on the processor (tweeter output fed to midrange channels) the issue was not present.


----------



## cobb2819

strakele said:


> When I sent ch3/4 on the amp the signal from ch1/2 on the processor (tweeter output fed to midrange channels) the issue was not present.


Try resetting as stated above and reinstall a known working backup of your tune.


----------



## strakele

I'll give that a try if it acts up again. It was fine today. I'm in no hurry to reproduce the problem


----------



## fahrfrompuken

I'll bet you aren't! The only issue I've ever had is losing connection over BT. It's a minor inconvenience at the most and does not really happen that often.

I hope you get it sorted Grason.


----------



## strakele

Mine loses connection all the time. But I think that's at least in part my laptop's fault.


----------



## DLO13

strakele said:


> Mine loses connection all the time. But I think that's at least in part my laptop's fault.


power settings enabled on bt?


----------



## strakele

Laptop has a physical on/off switch for Bluetooth that seems unreliable.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

That might do it.


----------



## goodstuff

strakele said:


> Mine loses connection all the time. But I think that's at least in part my laptop's fault.


 Update on this? Was it the switch?


----------



## goodstuff

Im setting the mosconi input gain. I have the drz all the way up playing pink noise. I can turn the mosconi gain up all the way and the leds don't light up?


----------



## goodstuff

Does this mean it wont clip....is the led a clip indicator light?


----------



## captainobvious

I thought the only LED was the basic power indicator...?


----------



## strakele

The DRZ has really low output voltage IIRC. So you're probably fine leaving it all the way up. There is no clip light. If you can play a really dynamic track at max volume and it doesn't mute, then it's all good.


----------



## Velozity

strakele said:


> The DRZ has really low output voltage IIRC. So you're probably fine leaving it all the way up. There is no clip light. If you can play a really dynamic track at max volume and it doesn't mute, then it's all good.




Where'd you see that? I thought I remember reading that someone did a test (maybe Erin) and it outputs 4V at 0dB on the dial, and 8V at +6dB (maxed). Could be mistaken...


----------



## edzyy

palldat said:


> Finally someone has looked. The answer is yes but I have 9.7in display for the mede8er. The galaxy tab is connected via bluetooth. So I have essentially 2 source units, 3 if you countmy phone.



Hmm, that looks damn nice

Can I use an ipad directly as an interface?


----------



## goodstuff

Velozity said:


> Where'd you see that? I thought I remember reading that someone did a test (maybe Erin) and it outputs 4V at 0dB on the dial, and 8V at +6dB (maxed). Could be mistaken...


This was my understanding as well. Greyson they talk about the led light here. Click warning sheet then read step 4. 

http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-dsp-6to8/


Sounded similar to setting up a threesixty.2
I am happy with the volume I am getting. I discovered it will mute but it was enough when it muted. I'm able to turn the deck up all the way and the input pot about a 1/4 of the way playing a loud recording before it mutes.


----------



## palldat

edzyy said:


> Hmm, that looks damn nice
> 
> Can I use an ipad directly as an interface?


Yes with the 6to8. The ipad would be your source unit. Either bluetooth or via rca.

You cannot use the mede8er with your ipad though.


----------



## strakele

Weird, I could have sworn Erin's test showed less than 2V. I'll try to find it. It'd be nice if the LED they mentioned exists, but the only one mine has is the power light.

Regardless, if you can turn your HU up to max without the processor muting, it's all good.


----------



## [email protected]

Here is a video we made that goes over that input adjustment... (in a basic sense)


----------



## edzyy

palldat said:


> Yes with the 6to8. The ipad would be your source unit. Either bluetooth or via rca.
> 
> You cannot use the mede8er with your ipad though.


how would i scroll through my library then?

Sorry for all the questions :laugh:


----------



## captainobvious

FYI-

If the Mosconi is muting, it's likely that you could be pushing the source unit into clipping, and thus the 6to8 senses this on the inputs and mutes. I'd make sure _*each *_output from the source unit are tested well to determine the actual clipping point of the deck first so you don't go above that, and then adjust input sensitivity on the dsp to match.


----------



## goodstuff

[email protected] said:


> Here is a video we made that goes over that input adjustment... (in a basic sense)


Great video. Thanks. I essentially set it the same way except I didn't use Madonna to do it. laughs.


----------



## palldat

edzyy said:


> how would i scroll through my library then?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions :laugh:


What is it that you are trying to do?


----------



## palldat

edzyy said:


> how would i scroll through my library then?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions :laugh:


What are you trying to do?


----------



## edzyy

palldat said:


> What is it that you are trying to do?


I want to be able to listen to my 500gb library of apple lossless 

Haven't figured out a good way of implementing it.


----------



## palldat

edzyy said:


> I want to be able to listen to my 500gb library of apple lossless
> 
> Haven't figured out a good way of implementing it.


Wireless hard drive. Connect to ipad and stream through bluetooth.


----------



## outroku

What program do you guys use to rip CDs to the highest possible FLAC format? dbpoweramp?


----------



## TexZen

outroku said:


> What program do you guys use to rip CDs to the highest possible FLAC format? dbpoweramp?


I've been using Exact Audio Copy for years. Never had a complaint other than some finicky/persnickety setup parameters. Exact Audio Copy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## outroku

TexZen said:


> I've been using Exact Audio Copy for years. Never had a complaint other than some finicky/persnickety setup parameters. Exact Audio Copy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


What bit rate & frequency will it rip FLAC up to?


----------



## TexZen

outroku said:


> What bit rate & frequency will it rip FLAC up to?


Bit rate & frequency don't matter w/FLAC, unless you're talking about what you are ripping/converting from. The goal is to create a "compressed" but lossless audio file that can be used recreate the original music that was ripped/converted. You get out of it what you feed into it. Your bit rate will vary depending upon the level of compression you specify (more compression, more CPU power and/or time needed) as well as the amount of "data" being compressed. Pegged/LOUD source material = higher shown kbps, Tracks with more dynamic range/long soft/quiet sections = lower shown kbps.


----------



## outroku

TexZen said:


> Bit rate & frequency don't matter w/FLAC, unless you're talking about what you are ripping/converting from. The goal is to create a "compressed" but lossless audio file that can be used recreate the original music that was ripped/converted. You get out of it what you feed into it. Your bit rate will vary depending upon the level of compression you specify (more compression, more CPU power and/or time needed) as well as the amount of "data" being compressed. Pegged/LOUD source material = higher shown kbps, Tracks with more dynamic range/long soft/quiet sections = lower shown kbps.


Then where are folks getting the majority of their true 24/96 FLAC files from besides CDs?

And how are folks getting true 24/96 FLAC files from CDs?


----------



## TexZen

outroku said:


> Then where are folks getting the majority of their true 24/96 FLAC files from besides CDs?
> 
> And how are folks getting true 24/96 FLAC files from CDs?


CDs are 16/44. They may be upsampling their CD rips to 24/96, which I consider to be "tweak" land. Your and other's mileage my vary, but you won't get any more "fidelity" out of your ripped 16/44 source by upsampling it. You can't re-create/add what isn't already there.

It is possible they are ripping from SACD or DVD sources that are 24/96, or downloading from HD-24/96 sites.

All of that being said, I'll sit back now let the "folks" share their thoughts and methods. Looking forward to possibly learning something new. :lurk:


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Then where are folks getting the majority of their true 24/96 FLAC files from besides CDs?
> 
> And how are folks getting true 24/96 FLAC files from CDs?


Places like HDTracks and others are actually released in those formats, not unconverted.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Places like HDTracks and others are actually released in those formats, not unconverted.


Thanks! 

I have a CD that says on the front "Fully Remastered 24 BIT audio." What program can I use to extract the tracks in 24 bit? Or is that not possible?


----------



## outroku

outroku said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I have a CD that says on the front "Fully Remastered 24 BIT audio." What program can I use to extract the tracks in 24 bit? Or is that not possible?


Looks like a standard CD is only possible at 16 Bit:

MediaMonkey - View topic - 24 bits 96 kHz CD question

_There are certain CD manufacturers who claim 24-bit for their discs--but it's in the mastering stage. JVC's K2 and XRCD discs both use 20 or 24-bit masters at high sampling rates. The masters are converted down to 16-bit/44.1kHz (standard Red Book) when the glass master is made._

Windows software to play FLAC files

_One common misconception is that you can record 24-bit downloads onto standard audio CDs, thereby increasing audio quality over 16-bit downloads. Not only does this represent a misunderstanding of how CDs work - whatever the electronics claims of your CD player and some of the dubious marketing of some record companies' products, all CDs are by definition 16-bit audio_

HDCD can be extracted using dbpoweramp:

MediaMonkey - View topic - 24 bits 96 kHz CD question

_I use dbPoweramp as my main ripping tool, and MediaMonkey for playback and library organization. The dbPoweramp CD ripper tends to be faster than MM with AccurateRip enabled, and allows HDCD to be fully converted to 24-bit FLAC (20-bit, padded with 4 bits, based upon source limitations) with the paid version. _


----------



## n_olympios

outroku said:


> I have a CD that says on the front "Fully Remastered 24 BIT audio."


That means that the process of remastering was done using 24bit. The actual music is stored in the cd in 16bit/44.1KHz.


----------



## goodstuff

Well my unit wasn't muting until I set it to stereo instead of mono. Doh. So I backed off the levels. Sounding amazing now. I have a question about the bass adjustment on the controller. How does the unit know what bass is? What is it's reference point? Only reason I ask is because it doesn't really change the bass volume all that much.


----------



## cobb2819

goodstuff said:


> Well my unit wasn't muting until I set it to stereo instead of mono. Doh. So I backed off the levels. Sounding amazing now. I have a question about the bass adjustment on the controller. How does the unit know what bass is? What is it's reference point? Only reason I ask is because it doesn't really change the bass volume all that much.


What do you mean "Bass Adjustment" on the controller?


----------



## goodstuff

cobb2819 said:


> What do you mean "Bass Adjustment" on the controller?


Sub Level.


----------



## cobb2819

Sub level is a level attenuation adjustment of outputs 7&8, the default subwoofer output channels.


----------



## Hammer1

If your talking about the RCD controller. The bass volume is only on channels 7 and 8 so your sub amp has to be run off those channels


----------



## crea_78

Cobb, Mark Worrell tried to update my brand new 6to8v8 using his laptop with several different versions of each model to no availability. He said it couldn't be the unit being defective. Mark also removed the BT module and that didn't help either. 

Any reason why this is going on?


----------



## cobb2819

crea_78 said:


> Cobb, Mark Worrell tried to update my brand new 6to8v8 using his laptop with several different versions of each model to no availability. He said it couldn't be the unit being defective. Mark also removed the BT module and that didn't help either.
> 
> Any reason why this is going on?


Is there an AMAS installed? Also, where did you purchase the unit from. Try a different laptop and see if it is HIS hardware.


----------



## goodstuff

Hammer1 said:


> If your talking about the RCD controller. The bass volume is only on channels 7 and 8 so your sub amp has to be run off those channels


Thank you sir. I didn't get a manual for the rcd since I bought it used.


----------



## goodstuff

Oh hell yea. It worked. Thank you Hammer1.


----------



## crea_78

cobb2819 said:


> Is there an AMAS installed? Also, where did you purchase the unit from. Try a different laptop and see if it is HIS hardware.


No AMAS, and I got it directly from him. We can try a different laptop and see if that works


cobb2819 said:


> Is there an AMAS installed? Also, where did you purchase the unit from. Try a different laptop and see if it is HIS hardware.


----------



## Thunderplains

crea_78 said:


> No AMAS, and I got it directly from him. We can try a different laptop and see if that works


Hey, for what it is worth, I took a older laptop I have, reformatted it and installed a trial version of Windows 7, works like an absolute charm, even with the Bit One (Which has all kinds of "commit" issues)


----------



## crea_78

Cobb (Jacob) spoke to Mark my installer and they figured out what the problem was. Its better to use BT instead of USB via a laptop.

Which Windows version is better to use (7 or 8.1) when using the DSP software, or does it matter? I need to buy a cheap laptop soon and was wondering.


----------



## goodstuff

I just got a Lenovo ThinkPad tablet2. Has Windows 8. Zero issues with usb. Actually used it tonight for a good while. Beats the pants off my clunky laptop. I got it for about 200 shipped.


----------



## crea_78

Good to see Windows 8 is OK to use. My wife's cousin is thinking about selling his Surface Pro (original) for $400. Can I use the touchscreen to make adjustments in the software?


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Yes, the touchscreen interface is great in the Mosconi software.

BTW, I think you'll need full Windows 8. I don't think that Windows RT will cut it. It runs great on my Dell Venue Pro 11 with Windows 8.1.


----------



## crea_78

fahrfrompuken said:


> Yes, the touchscreen interface is great in the Mosconi software.
> 
> BTW, I think you'll need full Windows 8. I don't think that Windows RT will cut it. It runs great on my Dell Venue Pro 11 with Windows 8.1.


The Surface Pro is full Windows which I might buy. Its the RT model that isn't.


----------



## fahrfrompuken

Ok. Cool. Windows RT will not let you install any programs or apps that you can get from their app store.


----------



## Bnixon

OK finally got my 6to8 with AMAS. I am doing a bench test before I install it. Here is my issue. I guess I can only have either my laptop or my iPad connected via bluetooth but not both at the same time?

I was building a setup that would stream via BT from my iPad as it is my only source. Am I going to have to run RCA inputs into the processor to tune then switch over to the BT? That sucks as I can not hear my real source while tuning. 

I hope I am an idiot and missing something here! can anyone help with this? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brandon


----------



## cobb2819

Bnixon said:


> OK finally got my 6to8 with AMAS. I am doing a bench test before I install it. Here is my issue. I guess I can only have either my laptop or my iPad connected via bluetooth but not both at the same time?
> 
> I was building a setup that would stream via BT from my iPad as it is my only source. Am I going to have to run RCA inputs into the processor to tune then switch over to the BT? That sucks as I can not hear my real source while tuning.
> 
> I hope I am an idiot and missing something here! can anyone help with this? It would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brandon


Get the Bluetooth Module for pairing your laptop, and then your iPad goes to the AMAS. This will allow for 2 different BT devices to access 2 different sections of the DSP, both via their own BT connection, separate from each other.


----------



## Bnixon

I also am having issue getting music to play via BT. Plays for a split seconds and mutes. Is there a level setting on the BT that I am missing somewhere?

thanks again for the help.


----------



## Bnixon

cobb2819 said:


> Get the Bluetooth Module for pairing your laptop, and then your iPad goes to the AMAS. This will allow for 2 different BT devices to access 2 different sections of the DSP, both via their own BT connection, separate from each other.


thanks for the response Cobb2819,

That is interesting. There is a sticker in the AMAS box that says "Attention: By using the AMAS module it's a MUST to make the settings by the AMAS BT and not via USB cable or the optional BT module"

Have you actually tried this and it worked?


----------



## cobb2819

I do it everyday, and every time I have to bench one, and every time we have a dealer call with an issue. 

As for the music playing and cutting out, it sounds like a signal trigger issue. This can be adjusted by using the AUX optical tab as your optical mixer, and fine tuning the switch over threshold with the sensitivity slider.


----------



## Bnixon

cobb2819 said:


> I do it everyday, and every time I have to bench one, and every time we have a dealer call with an issue.
> 
> As for the music playing and cutting out, it sounds like a signal trigger issue. This can be adjusted by using the AUX optical tab as your optical mixer, and fine tuning the switch over threshold with the sensitivity slider.


Found it! I did not route the optical input to the outputs on the AUX optical tab. music is streaming now  I will have to get with my dealer to get the BT module. Thanks for all the help! I can't wait to get it installed in the car now!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## t-man

Been reading through this thread as I am interested in a 6to8. I have the possibility to get a non-V8 version. Is this a bad choice? I realize that the V8 version has hotter output but how much of a difference will that make as far as noise and signal level?

Thanks!


----------



## tonny

The normal version is al ready very good and get's up to 4 volts on the outputs instead off 8volts the rest is almost the same! 
You do need a direct comparisation between them to hear more difference then the more volume they deliver.


----------



## t-man

Great, thanks tonny, that is the info I was looking for.

Anyone else agree or disagree with this?


----------



## Mic10is

the difference between the 2 is approx 4volts


----------



## papasin

Mic10is said:


> the difference between the 2 is approx 4volts



Lol. This place really needs a like button.


----------



## TexZen

papasin said:


> Lol. This place really needs a like button.


I physically groaned and facepalmed when I saw it.


----------



## bassboy

Not sure if anyone can help, but does anyone know if its possible to link 2 6to8's together? I need more output channels (6 or 7 pairs in total)...

I have the full AMAS/SP-DIF Multi on one of the processors, and am wondering if its possible to link the processors optically? But this then raises the question of how will one Controller control both processors etc? 

Another bit of information is my sole audio source is an iPad mini which streams wirelessly

Im struggling to find answers for this...


----------



## papasin

teamspb said:


> Not sure if anyone can help, but does anyone know if its possible to link 2 6to8's together? I need more output channels (6 or 7 pairs in total)...
> 
> I have the full AMAS/SP-DIF Multi on one of the processors, and am wondering if its possible to link the processors optically? But this then raises the question of how will one Controller control both processors etc?
> 
> Another bit of information is my sole audio source is an iPad mini which streams wirelessly
> 
> Im struggling to find answers for this...



I believe the answer is yes, and can get a 4to6spdif or D2 100.4 DSP (which includes amp channels in a compact chassis) or a second 6to8 and get another spdif module. Would go optical out on the 6to8 you already have to the optical in of one of the 3 units I mentioned.

As for "controlling" the second unit, depends what you mean by control. If just for volume, unless I am mistaken, you would use a set of RCA out from the first unit and use that as a "trigger" into the second unit to be able to attenuate the signal. Changing presets and other things from the second unit however, that would probably be thru a laptop or if you get the Bluetooth module via the android app.

All of the above info is my understanding and have not verified (but something I am considering myself for another build). I would check with cobb2819 or someone from Orca to see if my understanding is correct.


----------



## cobb2819

The easiest way is to sacrifice a set of channels on the output of the first DSP to feed the inputs of the second. Then your controller will do volume and sub (assuming you leave your sub on the 7&8 output of the first DSP).


----------



## quality_sound

If you cascade the processors like this aren't you going to have more delay on the speakers connected to the second unit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## papasin

quality_sound said:


> If you cascade the processors like this aren't you going to have more delay on the speakers connected to the second unit?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As I said, I haven't tried it...but not something I would be worried about. Why? A couple reasons at least otoh...

1. For my needs, what I would be interested in a second DSP is for things like rear fill or center channel processing since I could use the first one for 3-way front + sub. Rear-fill and center both would inherently require delay compared to front speakers to get the proper effect that range from 4-27ms...so even if there was a delay of 1ms (which I doubt would even be that much), then it is essentially helping me out of the box. 

2. Again, *if* there was a delay on the first one and if I had to guess it would be minuscule to none, if I can hear it or measure it, I'll just delay all the channels of the first one that amount...then problem solved.


----------



## quality_sound

The cascaded delay will be equal to the internal delay of the 6to8 itself. That delay in and of itself isn't a problem but if you start using very long delays you might run out of delay. Also, I can't imagine needing to run your center with more delay than your fronts. If it's delayed like the rears its going to be all kind of out of phase. You'd also need a unit to process a true center channel. I'd run an H800 if I was going to run a center channel. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bassboy

quality_sound said:


> The cascaded delay will be equal to the internal delay of the 6to8 itself. That delay in and of itself isn't a problem but if you start using very long delays you might run out of delay. Also, I can't imagine needing to run your center with more delay than your fronts. If it's delayed like the rears its going to be all kind of out of phase. You'd also need a unit to process a true center channel. I'd run an H800 if I was going to run a center channel.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can get a software update so the 6to8 processor can run true centre channels


----------



## tonny

For the volume control I think you can split the cable for the display and connect it to 2 dsp's, if you are using the amass module I don't think you can get a digital output form that dsp to connect the second one…. 
I know if you use the coaxial input you can also use the coaxial output for the same signal! 

Maybe you can connect the iPad to 2 amass module's the same time and get the sound that way to both dsp's. 

Otherwise you need to get one rya output form the first dsp to the second one…. then you also don't need the volume control for it.


----------



## bassboy

tonny said:


> For the volume control I think you can split the cable for the display and connect it to 2 dsp's, if you are using the amass module I don't think you can get a digital output form that dsp to connect the second one….
> I know if you use the coaxial input you can also use the coaxial output for the same signal!
> 
> Maybe you can connect the iPad to 2 amass module's the same time and get the sound that way to both dsp's.
> 
> Otherwise you need to get one rya output form the first dsp to the second one…. then you also don't need the volume control for it.


Interesting, I didn't think of splitting the cable!

If the digital output doesnt work, I guess I can always use a pair of outputs to feed the inputs of the next processor…I have plenty of spare channels.

I also did wonder about the 2 AMAS units, but my iPad etc doesnt allow me to pair up with more than one device at a time…

I think this is going to have to be a case of trying and testing…not even Mosconi themselves have been much help yet 

Luckily I have a D2 100.4DSP that I can pull out of the wife's car to test the digital output/input and see what they do.


----------



## Hammer1

After talking with Mosconi, You cannot link them with optical in and out and you cannot control both with the remote. Connect second processor with output channels 3 and 4 from first processor to 1 and 2 of second processor. Tuned each one through the usb. Time delay was not a problem and so far working great.


----------



## bassboy

Hammer1 said:


> After talking with Mosconi, You cannot link them with optical in and out and you cannot control both with the remote. Connected second processor with output channels 3 and 4 from first processor to 1 and 2 of second processor. Tuned each one through the usb. Time delay was not a problem and so far working great.


Thats perfect, exactly what I needed…I do wonder though what will happen if you do try to connect optical in/out? 

Looks like my install will change to;

Processor 1;
Channels 1+2 - Tweeters
3+4 - Midrange
5+6 - Processor 2
7+8 - Sub

Processor 2
Channels 1+2 - Front midbass
3+4 - Rear fill
5 (or whatever channel the software configures to be 'centre') - Centre channel
Remaining channels - Spare or potentially an upfront sub should I feel the need


----------



## ndm

Hammer1 said:


> After talking with Mosconi, You cannot link them with optical in and out and you cannot control both with the remote. Connect second processor with output channels 3 and 4 from first processor to 1 and 2 of second processor. Tuned each one through the usb. Time delay was not a problem and so far working great.


Your truck fits the definition for excessive......

And I like it!

I am thinking of either doing a single helix dsp pro or 2 mosconi units like you have done. Then I will use my factory head units 7.1 logic for all the channels since a center channel has grown on me.


----------



## Hammer1

Excessive ?? Well maybe just a little


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## Mitsu1grn

Greetings!

The 6 to 8 cannot be slaved to another 6 to 8. Not gonna happen. The 4 to 6 with the digital in/out can be. You may slave up to 18 output channels in addition to the master unit to give you 24 channels of output that can be controlled by the master unit. I personally have not done this but I do know of dealers that have done 12 channels successfully. You use the digital in/out on the units for signal. 

Hope this helps!

Nick


----------



## Gadget01

I got my recently acquired 6to8 (non v.8) paired over BT to a Win7 laptop and have my basic crossover settings dialed in last night.

This 6to8 is replacing a Bit 1. Nothing really wrong with it aside from a wonky remote unit display and some random turnoff pops, so don't mention that to my wife. I've been using an old WinXP laptop to tune via USB. I've also used it to tune a friend's Ground Zero DSP. I tried several times to get this computer to talk to the 6to8 via BT, but after it paired, the 6to8 software just sat there and gave less than a single fecal deposit about my needs with a steady "not connected" indication. Same result with a different XP laptop. I tried every sequence variation of opening the software. After BT pairing, if I cycled the 6to8's power, the unit would not reconnect- it had to be removed and re-paired.

I removed the 6to8's BT module and connected a USB cable. "Not connected" with both laptops and my Win8.1 desktop. No tone that indicates a connected device that you normally hear when plugging in a device. When I gave the USB cable on the 6to8 a little sideways movement, I got the connect tone and then immediately afterwards the disconnect tone. To rule out a bad USB cable, I tried with 2 other known/tested good USB cables with the same result. The problem is the USB socket on the 6to8, which feels a little loose and probably has at least one cold solder joint or broken leads to the circuit card. 

I installed Win7 on the 2nd laptop I had previously attempted. After it paired, the software recognized the 6to8 immediately and all was good to go. While I would prefer the USB to function correctly, now that I can tune it over BT I'm not terribly motivated to fix it.

This is not an attack, more of a concern/PSA:

There are several examples of USB connectivity problems in this thread which possibly indicates a systemic manufacturing problem. While BT is a nice convenience, it shouldn't be a highly recommended "necessity," especially since it's an optional accessory to be purchased. Maybe it's just a problem in a small sample of several thousand units. Based on what I've read here, it's often enough that makes me hope Mosconi has addressed this with a more stout manner of USB socket mounting in the newer v.8 unit. Hearing that BT was a more reliable connection vs USB was like hearing Oklahomans are experts at merging onto the interstate.

So far, I'm pretty pleased with the 6to8. The software GUI is quite a departure from what I'm used to with the Bit 1. Not necessarily a negative thing, just really different and totally expected. I'm impressed by what Mosconi was able to package into such a small enclosure. I look forward to hearing what it can do in the car.

Even more impressive is the quick and helpful responses in this thread as questions/issues arise from those close to the source. That's nothing short of awesome.

If anyone has successfully used an XP laptop to connect to their 6to8 over BT, please share. I'm not a computer novice and I could not make it work. Now that it's working, it's more of a curiosity vs a need for me but perhaps useful for someone searching the thread for helpful info.

What I would really like to see is some expansion to the Android app's functionality. Some improvements in the software GUI's design would be nice too.

cheers


----------



## quality_sound

You cannot use the USB port while the BT module is plugged in. BT overrides it. To use BT, and yes, the cable is a little loose, unplug the BT module.


----------



## palldat

I love not having to plug a usb cable in to program my unit. The drops are few and far between. It is far more stable than the Rockford and the Audison. IMO


----------



## Gadget01

quality_sound said:


> You cannot use the USB port while the BT module is plugged in. BT overrides it. To use BT, and yes, the cable is a little loose, unplug the BT module.


Correct. I picked up that little tidbit while reading this thread while waiting for the unit to ship.



Gadget01 said:


> I removed the 6to8's BT module and connected a USB cable.


 Which is why I mentioned it, but it's cool... it was a long post 

The USB socket connector pins only make intermittent contact with the motherboard. You shouldn't have to plug the cable in and hold it at just the right angle while making "the face" to get it connected. Now that I have it working over BT, I don't care so much that the USB socket is wonky. My point is, if this is so common, perhaps it's a quality-control issue that should be addressed at the design improvement table and/or assembly line.

Anyone with a 6to8 v.8 have trouble with the USB socket?


----------



## Extended Power

I'm in the midst of building the amp rack for my system, and a Mosconi 6 to 8 is mounted to the rack.
The issue is, I want all the wires to feed from behind the amp rack, which is the full width of the cab.(no room to route cable after the rack is in place.)

I don't have a remote control display for it yet, but am looking for one.
Is the cable for the remote control display just a regular gain cable like say a JL Audio remote gain control?
Can you leave the USB cable plugged in all the time? (BIG pita to plug and unplug it when the sack is in place.)

Just trying to be proactive, and run the cable for it now, so it's just a plug & play install later.


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> I'm in the midst of building the amp rack for my system, and a Mosconi 6 to 8 is mounted to the rack.
> The issue is, I want all the wires to feed from behind the amp rack, which is the full width of the cab.(no room to route cable after the rack is in place.)
> 
> I don't have a remote control display for it yet, but am looking for one.
> Is the cable for the remote control display just a regular gain cable like say a JL Audio remote gain control?
> Can you leave the USB cable plugged in all the time? (BIG pita to plug and unplug it when the sack is in place.)
> 
> Just trying to be proactive, and run the cable for it now, so it's just a plug & play install later.


No, it's a RJ-11 on one side, and a custom plug on the other.


----------



## Extended Power

^^^^CRaP!

Thanks for the quick reply anyways.


----------



## palldat

cobb2819 said:


> No, it's a RJ-11 on one side, and a custom plug on the other.


We missed you Saturday at the Torrance meet.

Can you use an adapter and extend the rj11 side?


----------



## Hextall 27

Are there any plans to add asynchronous USB DAC capabilities to the Mosconi 6to8? It seems that if it has async it would be perfect for what mobile audio is becoming.


----------



## cobb2819

Hextall 27 said:


> Are there any plans to add asynchronous USB DAC capabilities to the Mosconi 6to8? It seems that if it has async it would be perfect for what mobile audio is becoming.


Probably not due to the 6to8's ability to receive high res over bluetooth via the AMAS. The USB Dac seems like a good idea for a wired connection, but in all fairness, the world of wireless is what is taking over mobile electronics.


----------



## Hextall 27

cobb2819 said:


> Probably not due to the 6to8's ability to receive high res over bluetooth via the AMAS. The USB Dac seems like a good idea for a wired connection, but in all fairness, the world of wireless is what is taking over mobile electronics.



Excuse my wireless ignorance but I thought that there was signal degradation using A2DP BT, is the EDR a new or different technology? My primary concern is getting the bit perfect digital signal into the processor, wireless convenience is a second or third concern for me.


----------



## palldat

What is the highest resolution possible? If I had a DSD or DXD player would I be able to get the same resolution or would it down convert it?


----------



## cobb2819

Hextall 27 said:


> Excuse my wireless ignorance but I thought that there was signal degradation using A2DP BT, is the EDR a new or different technology? My primary concern is getting the bit perfect digital signal into the processor, wireless convenience is a second or third concern for me.


I could A/B between my Pure i20 and my AMAS and there is ZERO difference between them. Enough so that I removed the Pure i20 entirely. Building another DAC into the DSP would drastically change the price for little to no advantage. I cannot speak to anything other than our experiences and what we encounter. You're honestly the first and only person that has mentioned building in a USB Dac in a conversation that I have been part of or witnessed, taking into consideration all of the options that are available.


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> What is the highest resolution possible? If I had a DSD or DXD player would I be able to get the same resolution or would it down convert it?


It'll take 24/92 in, but anything higher needs to be down sampled pre-DSP. The DSP will down sample to 24/48 as that is it's native resolution.


----------



## Tnutt19

Hextall 27 said:


> Excuse my wireless ignorance but I thought that there was signal degradation using A2DP BT, is the EDR a new or different technology? My primary concern is getting the bit perfect digital signal into the processor, wireless convenience is a second or third concern for me.


Yea I will 2nd Cobb. You just need a good set of RCAS for your application really. The 6to8 does great in its analog abilities and through the AMAS. Frankly I do not think you would notice a difference and the Analog out of the 6to8 sounded better in my experience than the Bitone wired all digital into Thesis amplifiers. Point being, do not get hung up on the marketing of the digital as much as the real life application. On paper all digital sounds great in theory but a good set of RCAs will leave you one happy camper. 
That has been my experience at least.


----------



## Hextall 27

cobb2819 said:


> I could A/B between my Pure i20 and my AMAS and there is ZERO difference between them.


That's EXACTLY what I was wondering. This may be the processor I have been looking for for 3 years. I always heard that BT even with aptX was lossy and degraded quality. I'm not buying a processor to use in analog.
"Cobb" you work for Orca? That is the NA distributor for Mosconi I'm guessing.



Tnutt19 said:


> You just need a good set of RCAS for your application really.


I wouldn't use analog as I have no use for FM/AM radio. I want to use my tablet and iPhone as my source.


----------



## Hextall 27

cobb2819 said:


> I could A/B between my Pure i20 and my AMAS and there is ZERO difference between them. Enough so that I removed the Pure i20 entirely. Building another DAC into the DSP would drastically change the price for little to no advantage. I cannot speak to anything other than our experiences and what we encounter. You're honestly the first and only person that has mentioned building in a USB Dac in a conversation that I have been part of or witnessed, taking into consideration all of the options that are available.


One more question, when you stream via BT what player are you using? I have the Onkyo app that I use exclusively but that BT signal it sends out has already gone through the D/A conversion, correct? So using BT I am effectively going through Onkyo/iPhone D/A to BT to the 6to8 A/D to DSP processing to D/A again? That's why I was always looking for an asynch solution. Which is what I use at home.


----------



## Tnutt19

Hextall 27 said:


> That's EXACTLY what I was wondering. This may be the processor I have been looking for for 3 years. I always heard that BT even with aptX was lossy and degraded quality. I'm not buying a processor to use in analog.
> "Cobb" you work for Orca? That is the NA distributor for Mosconi I'm guessing.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't use analog as I have no use for FM/AM radio. I want to use my tablet and iPhone as my source.


Aha, then yes you will be very pleased with the AMAS. I used it with my Iphone 5s and it is perfect!!


----------



## cobb2819

Hextall 27 said:


> One more question, when you stream via BT what player are you using? I have the Onkyo app that I use exclusively but that BT signal it sends out has already gone through the D/A conversion, correct? So using BT I am effectively going through Onkyo/iPhone D/A to BT to the 6to8 A/D to DSP processing to D/A again? That's why I was always looking for an asynch solution. Which is what I use at home.


It's not going through the DA, but it does get stepped down to 16/48 because of iOS. I use Music (normal iTunes stuff) and then Flac Player for my high res. While it may seem counter intuitive to say that it sounds just as good, there are many people here that use the AMAS and love the quality of sound. If we can get Apple to support high res over BT, then things will only get better. If iOS would support axpt, EVEN BETTER.


----------



## BigRed

Love the AMAS!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## palldat

Yes, I am hooked up with both the AMAS and Spdif and they sound the same to me.


----------



## cobb2819

BigRed said:


> Love the AMAS!!


This guy might know something and how things should sound.


----------



## cobb2819

Hextall 27 said:


> "Cobb" you work for Orca? That is the NA distributor for Mosconi I'm guessing.


Yup.


----------



## Extended Power

Sorry for the stupid question, but on the older version of 6to8, what does this statement mean?

*AUTOSENSE*: switch to SE, if your source has not a BTL technology

Is it to select if the unit is equipped with BluTooth or ?
What does the "SE" stand for: "Standard Edition", "Special Edition", "Silly Edition", or "Stupid Enough" ?

Edit: had another cup of coffee and I think I get it now. 
If it is set to "SE", then the "Remote" connection requires 12 volts to turn the DSP on, and if it's set to "BTL" then the "Remote" connection can be used to turn on external equipment, thus changing to a +12 volts output.

Correct?

REMOTE POWER CONTROL
Connect
the remote power terminal (+12V) of the source REM connector of the DSP
If use the autosence function, it's possible to use the REM-entry as a 12-V REM-exit, to start or stop an externally amplifier.


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> Sorry for the stupid question, but on the older version of 6to8, what does this statement mean?
> 
> *AUTOSENSE*: switch to SE, if your source has not a BTL technology
> 
> Is it to select if the unit is equipped with BluTooth or ?
> What does the "SE" stand for: "Standard Edition", "Special Edition", "Silly Edition", or "Stupid Enough" ?
> 
> Edit: had another cup of coffee and I think I get it now.
> If it is set to "SE", then the "Remote" connection requires 12 volts to turn the DSP on, and if it's set to "BTL" then the "Remote" connection can be used to turn on external equipment, thus changing to a +12 volts output.
> 
> Correct?
> 
> REMOTE POWER CONTROL
> Connect
> the remote power terminal (+12V) of the source REM connector of the DSP
> If use the autosence function, it's possible to use the REM-entry as a 12-V REM-exit, to start or stop an externally amplifier.


So...how are you feeding the DSP? Low Level from an aftermarket head unit or high level from a factory amp. SE refers to Single Ended (or common ground) and BTL is Bridge Tied Load. In high level the remote in becomes a remote out, and depending on the signal from your factory source, this switch is necessary. In low level, BTL is probably your best bet.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> So...how are you feeding the DSP? Low Level from an aftermarket head unit or high level from a factory amp. SE refers to Single Ended (or common ground) and BTL is Bridge Tied Load. In high level the remote in becomes a remote out, and depending on the signal from your factory source, this switch is necessary. In low level, BTL is probably your best bet.


Still working on it, but so far I have the Kenwood 5v preouts hooked up to the 6 inputs, 12v power to the positive, ground, and going to hook the "rem" to the remote on from the Kenwood HU.


----------



## cobb2819

Then I wouldn't worry about the switch, it will not effect your install.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> Then I wouldn't worry about the switch, it will not effect your install.


Thank you.


----------



## Gadget01

I finally got my 6to8 installed. My Bit 1 quit working last week and driving a no-tunes car for a few days gave me all the motivation I needed to get the swap done. Hope to make some tuning progress with it tomorrow.

Alpine W535 feeds the 6to8 with 2 low-level channels, 3x Arc KS mini amps powering a Focal 3-way and a Boston 13" sub. Using a Y-adapter to send one sub channel to both L/R sub amp inputs. Autosense switch is set to BTL and the HU's remote turnon triggers the 6to8 and amps together. Works fine with no turn on/off noise.

Ch 1/2: midrange
Ch 3/4: midbass
Ch 5/6: tweets
Ch 7: sub


----------



## l a r r y

Is anyone using the mobile phone app MOS6to8 app to control the DSP? I am having trouble connecting the app to my DSP. I can open the app, and see the BT dongle, but it does not connect when I attempt to. I've read some of the reviews and others has been able to get it to work on the same device as mine which is a Samsung Note 3.


----------



## Gadget01

After a few tuning sessions, I can say I like this DSP much more vs the Bit 1- which remains a solid choice esp if you find a good deal. The Bluetooth connectivity and parametric EQ are 2 standout features of the 6to8, at least that I've noticed so far. Adding AMAS and a practical interface is something worth exploring but I'm not convinced the expense is justified. By practical interface, I mean something that's fixed in the car, safe to operate and not tedious to manage content. 

99% of my library is Apple Lossless-(ALAC) 16 bit-44.1kHz. I have a few HD albums via HDTracks and DVD-A rips and they sound fantastic but in order to sync to my iPod for vehicular playback with my current setup they must be resampled to 44/16.

Am I losing anything? Yes. Am I losing anything noticeable for my car? I doubt it. The argument for ALAC vs MP3 @ 320 is a stronger one yet I doubt most can distinguish between them in a blind test.

Lest I further digress- I'm very happy with the 6to8. It's not perfect, but if I had to start all over I'd choose this one again without hesitation, even if I had to pay full retail.


----------



## jsketoe

gadget...glad you liked it. i liked your car at finals and look forward to hearing it again!


----------



## t3sn4f2

Gadget01 said:


> After a few tuning sessions, I can say I like this DSP much more vs the Bit 1- which remains a solid choice esp if you find a good deal. The Bluetooth connectivity and parametric EQ are 2 standout features of the 6to8, at least that I've noticed so far. Adding AMAS and a practical interface is something worth exploring but I'm not convinced the expense is justified. By practical interface, I mean something that's fixed in the car, safe to operate and not tedious to manage content.
> 
> *99% of my library is Apple Lossless-(ALAC) 16 bit-44.1kHz. I have a few HD albums via HDTracks and DVD-A rips and they sound fantastic but in order to sync to my iPod for vehicular playback with my current setup they must be resampled to 44/16.
> 
> Am I losing anything? Yes. Am I losing anything noticeable for my car? I doubt it. The argument for ALAC vs MP3 @ 320 is a stronger one yet I doubt most can distinguish between them in a blind test.*
> Lest I further digress- I'm very happy with the 6to8. It's not perfect, but if I had to start all over I'd choose this one again without hesitation, even if I had to pay full retail.


FWIW, all current processors, except for the new Helix DSP Pro, down-sample to 24bit/48kHz since that is the processing rate of the DSP.


----------



## Gadget01

jsketoe said:


> gadget...glad you liked it. i liked your car at finals and look forward to hearing it again!


Thanks man- hopefully it will be a LOT more put-together by then. Still needs a ton of work.


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> This is correct. Just check vol trigger from 1&2 in the aux optical tab and you're off to the races. This is how I'm gonna run the i20 vol control. Output optical straight to 6to8, analog out to aux in on radio, radio output to 6to8 analog in. It'll auto sense the optical in, and I'll change my radio to aux and use vol control.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If your using optical into 6to8 from I20 you also need to run rca from I20 to 6to8 inorder to use the rcd for volume


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> If your using optical into 6to8 from I20 you also need to run rca from I20 to 6to8 inorder to use the rcd for volume


No, that feature is incase you have a CD Transport that has a fixed optical and RCA output. You can run them together, and then use the RCA voltage to control the volume. If you have an RCD, just use that for volume control.


----------



## l a r r y

l a r r y said:


> Is anyone using the mobile phone app MOS6to8 app to control the DSP? I am having trouble connecting the app to my DSP. I can open the app, and see the BT dongle, but it does not connect when I attempt to. I've read some of the reviews and others has been able to get it to work on the same device as mine which is a Samsung Note 3.



Anyone......or is this not even worth digging into further?

Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

l a r r y said:


> Anyone......or is this not even worth digging into further?
> 
> Thanks


Are you pairing the device to your phone using the devices password??


----------



## l a r r y

cobb2819 said:


> Are you pairing the device to your phone using the devices password??


Yes I am. The default password for the USB dongle


----------



## cobb2819

l a r r y said:


> Yes I am. The default password for the USB dongle


If you have the Bluetooth Module paired to your phone, and no other devices paired to the bluetooth module, and the app won't see it, then you're probably running into an android issue. The app is, and always will be, a last resort for me personally, where a true controller will be heads above.


----------



## l a r r y

Cobb, thanks so much for the response. But to say that it is an Android issue, is kind of a vague statement. I can perform any other function via bluetooth with my Note 3. Bluetooth audio streaming, phone calls, display text to my h/u etc, bluetooth file transfer to two different laptops. Yes, I would definitely like to get a mini controller for this application, but until I can source one, I thought I'd give this a shot.


----------



## cobb2819

l a r r y said:


> Cobb, thanks so much for the response. But to say that it is an Android issue, is kind of a vague statement. I can perform any other function via bluetooth with my Note 3. Bluetooth audio streaming, phone calls, display text to my h/u etc, bluetooth file transfer to two different laptops. Yes, I would definitely like to get a mini controller for this application, but until I can source one, I thought I'd give this a shot.


I wouldn't say it's vague. Android app development, due to it's open source, is rather unreliable. Say the Mosconi app was developed for a long since discontinued version of Android, and it hasn't been updated for never versions, there could be issues. I don't know anyone who uses the app regularly. Your phone functioning properly with set protocol is to be expected, but with 3rd party app development, I just don't trust it. If your Bluetooth Module is functioning properly for programming the DSP with a laptop, and you can "see" it with your phone, then the probably would seem to be on the app/andriod side.


----------



## palldat

I thought I was going to get by with using the app only and it ended up that the controller makes it so much easier to use. The app does work fine for me...I have used on Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1, NOTE2 and currently a NOTE4 with no issues.


----------



## cobb2819

Sweet Paul, maybe you can walk him through.


----------



## donotattempt

Hi All,

After reading through all the pages of this thread before I make a "contribution". Installed the 6to8 with the Bluetooth module (dongle) and to my surprise I have experienced everything collectively. I figured I would post here as opposed to starting another mosconi thread.

Overall consensus is that I like the unit and I'm impressed with it, to an extent. I am fumigated at/with the muting "feature" that we all know does not allow me to really rock out.

Setup is 2013 Hyundai Sonata with base head unit. Leviathan III, Pioneer PRS-D800 on tweeters, faital pro 10"s in front doors (2 per door), rear doors stock, two 15" Dayton IB subwoofers. See build thread below.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...my-car/157750-2013-sonata-t-upgrade-help.html


*Cons* 

- turn-on and off popping.. so loud it fear I will pop a speaker.

- annoying muting feature. I played a bass-heavy song with everything pegged at (-)12db on the input gains and my system mutes at volume 12 of 45. This is with the amplifiers turned up 25%.

- when the unit warms up, it get extremely temperamental and cuts out as it feels.

- during tuning sessions it would time out and have to be reconnected. This is not a major issue, however, it is frustrating, especially if I want to just go in and change the frequency on my mids.

- I get static in my front passenger door with the volume at 0. I place this as a con simply because I put an external signal to the leviathan channels and they appear to be squeaky clean.

- My previous setup being much "simpler" with a clarion EQ and 2 clarion crossovers feeding the amplifiers was able to get quite louder when/ifever I wanted to whale on it, no worries.

*Pros*

- The unit is great and easy to use. I like the flexibility of this unit. The UI is ok.

- Setting the center frequencies / Q values to what I want is awesome.

- Quite small as everyone already knows.

*Possible Solution*

Since I'm seeking a lot more output as the system has the capability to give this. Which of the following should I do?:

- Add an audiocontrol matrix plus (line driver)

- Replace unit with either Helix DSP or a RF 3sixty.3

I have spoken to Duane at Orca and we are working on a solution as to why the unit is malfunctioning as it should not be contributing to such negativity. 



Thanks for reading.


----------



## Tnutt19

donotattempt said:


> Hi All,
> 
> After reading through all the pages of this thread before I make a "contribution". Installed the 6to8 with the Bluetooth module (dongle) and to my surprise I have experienced everything collectively. I figured I would post here as opposed to starting another mosconi thread.
> 
> Overall consensus is that I like the unit and I'm impressed with it, to an extent. I am fumigated at/with the muting "feature" that we all know does not allow me to really rock out.
> 
> Setup is 2013 Hyundai Sonata with base head unit. Leviathan III, Pioneer PRS-D800 on tweeters, faital pro 10"s in front doors (2 per door), rear doors stock, two 15" Dayton IB subwoofers. See build thread below.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...my-car/157750-2013-sonata-t-upgrade-help.html
> 
> 
> *Cons*
> 
> - turn-on and off popping.. so loud it fear I will pop a speaker.
> 
> - annoying muting feature. I played a bass-heavy song with everything pegged at (-)12db on the input gains and my system mutes at volume 12 of 45. This is with the amplifiers turned up 25%.
> 
> - when the unit warms up, it get extremely temperamental and cuts out as it feels.
> 
> - during tuning sessions it would time out and have to be reconnected. This is not a major issue, however, it is frustrating, especially if I want to just go in and change the frequency on my mids.
> 
> - I get static in my front passenger door with the volume at 0. I place this as a con simply because I put an external signal to the leviathan channels and they appear to be squeaky clean.
> 
> - My previous setup being much "simpler" with a clarion EQ and 2 clarion crossovers feeding the amplifiers was able to get quite louder when/ifever I wanted to whale on it, no worries.
> 
> *Pros*
> 
> - The unit is great and easy to use. I like the flexibility of this unit. The UI is ok.
> 
> - Setting the center frequencies / Q values to what I want is awesome.
> 
> - Quite small as everyone already knows.
> 
> *Possible Solution*
> 
> Since I'm seeking a lot more output as the system has the capability to give this. Which of the following should I do?:
> 
> - Add an audiocontrol matrix plus (line driver)
> 
> - Replace unit with either Helix DSP or a RF 3sixty.3
> 
> I have spoken to Duane at Orca and we are working on a solution as to why the unit is malfunctioning as it should not be contributing to such negativity.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading.


I would suggest doing some trouble shooting, I did not experience any of your concerns with mine. The noise floor was dead silent, no turn on/off pop, everything was perfect. Check your RCAS and all your connections. Could be a simple issue with your rcas.


----------



## ndm

donotattempt said:


> Hi All,
> 
> After reading through all the pages of this thread before I make a "contribution". Installed the 6to8 with the Bluetooth module (dongle) and to my surprise I have experienced everything collectively. I figured I would post here as opposed to starting another mosconi thread.
> 
> Overall consensus is that I like the unit and I'm impressed with it, to an extent. I am fumigated at/with the muting "feature" that we all know does not allow me to really rock out.
> 
> Setup is 2013 Hyundai Sonata with base head unit. Leviathan III, Pioneer PRS-D800 on tweeters, faital pro 10"s in front doors (2 per door), rear doors stock, two 15" Dayton IB subwoofers. See build thread below.
> 
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...my-car/157750-2013-sonata-t-upgrade-help.html
> 
> 
> *Cons*
> 
> - turn-on and off popping.. so loud it fear I will pop a speaker.
> 
> - annoying muting feature. I played a bass-heavy song with everything pegged at (-)12db on the input gains and my system mutes at volume 12 of 45. This is with the amplifiers turned up 25%.
> 
> - when the unit warms up, it get extremely temperamental and cuts out as it feels.
> 
> - during tuning sessions it would time out and have to be reconnected. This is not a major issue, however, it is frustrating, especially if I want to just go in and change the frequency on my mids.
> 
> - I get static in my front passenger door with the volume at 0. I place this as a con simply because I put an external signal to the leviathan channels and they appear to be squeaky clean.
> 
> - My previous setup being much "simpler" with a clarion EQ and 2 clarion crossovers feeding the amplifiers was able to get quite louder when/ifever I wanted to whale on it, no worries.
> 
> *Pros*
> 
> - The unit is great and easy to use. I like the flexibility of this unit. The UI is ok.
> 
> - Setting the center frequencies / Q values to what I want is awesome.
> 
> - Quite small as everyone already knows.
> 
> *Possible Solution*
> 
> Since I'm seeking a lot more output as the system has the capability to give this. Which of the following should I do?:
> 
> - Add an audiocontrol matrix plus (line driver)
> 
> - Replace unit with either Helix DSP or a RF 3sixty.3
> 
> I have spoken to Duane at Orca and we are working on a solution as to why the unit is malfunctioning as it should not be contributing to such negativity.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading.


I am highly considering changing to the helix dsp pro due to that muting feature. It is really getting to my nerves. Other than that i have no real big issues other than the connection time when making a simple change.


----------



## donotattempt

Tnutt19 said:


> I would suggest doing some trouble shooting, I did not experience any of your concerns with mine. The noise floor was dead silent, no turn on/off pop, everything was perfect. Check your RCAS and all your connections. Could be a simple issue with your rcas.


Did extensive trouble shooting. There is no engine noise, side note. I went as far as changing my RCA's in the car. I am using IXOS triple shielded, twisted RCA's in the car. Even replacing the RCA's in the car I got a large pop. Checked the leviathan as a standalone and got no pops no noise in the door drivers. Removed the input high level inputs to the 6to8, there was a pop on turn on, but not on shutdown.

As to a solution for this, I intend to install a timed delay unit to turn on each piece equipment in a chain or pulsated.


----------



## quality_sound

Why would you replace the RCAs to fix a pop? 

Are you using the 6to8 to turn the amps on and off? If the 6to8s remote output isn't used a lot of weird things happen. 

Is the OEM audio in you Sonata amplified? I could feed my VWs high-level signal into my 6to8 with no issues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## donotattempt

quality_sound said:


> Why would you replace the RCAs to fix a pop?
> 
> Are you using the 6to8 to turn the amps on and off? If the 6to8s remote output isn't used a lot of weird things happen.
> 
> Is the OEM audio in you Sonata amplified? I could feed my VWs high-level signal into my 6to8 with no issues.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Let me start by saying I'm not in the mind-set to jack the thread.

The 6to8 remote is being use to turn the amps on. I am using the base audio system the car comes with as stated above, which does not come with an external amplifier, that would be the upgraded audio. For further info on the setup, please see the thread link posted. Thank you so much in advance.

I swapped the RCA's because I heard the static in the speakers, so I figured I would change them to alleviate the problem, as it could be there because of a bad RCA head/wiring. Once this was done, it was realized that the sound was still there.

Once everything is done by Orca I will be certain to update the build thread. I wanted to share my short experience with the unit with the community to see what would be by best option and why?

The largest thing for me atop of everything is the muting feature.

Thank you all in advance


----------



## l a r r y

Off the wall question on input level....

On my Kenwood DNX9990hd, I have three sets of RCA outs, F/R/SUB. I want to be able to use all three of them, while maintaining subwoofer output control from my h/u. I am running a 3way setup for the front, and a single sub. How would I set the mixer levels to accomplish this?


Thanks for any assistance in this simple request


----------



## DLO13

l a r r y said:


> Off the wall question on input level....
> 
> On my Kenwood DNX9990hd, I have three sets of RCA outs, F/R/SUB. I want to be able to use all three of them, while maintaining subwoofer output control from my h/u. I am running a 3way setup for the front, and a single sub. How would I set the mixer levels to accomplish this?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any assistance in this simple request


It would make the most sense to have everything at 100% on the 6to8. The kenwood deck should then control the level AT the unit.

I am curious to see if it actually works this way...


----------



## SPAZ

Can Mic's like the UMIK-1 be used with the 6to8 for tuning?


----------



## cobb2819

SPAZ said:


> Can Mic's like the UMIK-1 be used with the 6to8 for tuning?


I do believe so because the UMIK-1 is just a USB Mic. You will use that as your RTA, and make your adjustment.


----------



## ndm

l a r r y said:


> Off the wall question on input level....
> 
> On my Kenwood DNX9990hd, I have three sets of RCA outs, F/R/SUB. I want to be able to use all three of them, while maintaining subwoofer output control from my h/u. I am running a 3way setup for the front, and a single sub. How would I set the mixer levels to accomplish this?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any assistance in this simple request


front input 100% to channels 1,2,3,4,5,6
Sub input 100% to channel 7,8

rear rca input not used if you are not running rear amps.

I am running mine this way but I plan to switch to the helix dsp pro so I can do 3 way active and plus rears and a sub.


----------



## gtaphile

I just bought a D2-100.4 DSP and a D2-150.2 in February. I didn't buy the BT module or the wired remote. 

Should I be concerned about the USB input for set-up?

My plan is to set up and lock it down and using the head unit volume for control.

Thanks for any assistance.





Gadget01 said:


> I got my recently acquired 6to8 (non v.8) paired over BT to a Win7 laptop and have my basic crossover settings dialed in last night.
> 
> This 6to8 is replacing a Bit 1. Nothing really wrong with it aside from a wonky remote unit display and some random turnoff pops, so don't mention that to my wife. I've been using an old WinXP laptop to tune via USB. I've also used it to tune a friend's Ground Zero DSP. I tried several times to get this computer to talk to the 6to8 via BT, but after it paired, the 6to8 software just sat there and gave less than a single fecal deposit about my needs with a steady "not connected" indication. Same result with a different XP laptop. I tried every sequence variation of opening the software. After BT pairing, if I cycled the 6to8's power, the unit would not reconnect- it had to be removed and re-paired.
> 
> I removed the 6to8's BT module and connected a USB cable. "Not connected" with both laptops and my Win8.1 desktop. No tone that indicates a connected device that you normally hear when plugging in a device. When I gave the USB cable on the 6to8 a little sideways movement, I got the connect tone and then immediately afterwards the disconnect tone. To rule out a bad USB cable, I tried with 2 other known/tested good USB cables with the same result. The problem is the USB socket on the 6to8, which feels a little loose and probably has at least one cold solder joint or broken leads to the circuit card.
> 
> I installed Win7 on the 2nd laptop I had previously attempted. After it paired, the software recognized the 6to8 immediately and all was good to go. While I would prefer the USB to function correctly, now that I can tune it over BT I'm not terribly motivated to fix it.
> 
> This is not an attack, more of a concern/PSA:
> 
> There are several examples of USB connectivity problems in this thread which possibly indicates a systemic manufacturing problem. While BT is a nice convenience, it shouldn't be a highly recommended "necessity," especially since it's an optional accessory to be purchased. Maybe it's just a problem in a small sample of several thousand units. Based on what I've read here, it's often enough that makes me hope Mosconi has addressed this with a more stout manner of USB socket mounting in the newer v.8 unit. Hearing that BT was a more reliable connection vs USB was like hearing Oklahomans are experts at merging onto the interstate.
> 
> So far, I'm pretty pleased with the 6to8. The software GUI is quite a departure from what I'm used to with the Bit 1. Not necessarily a negative thing, just really different and totally expected. I'm impressed by what Mosconi was able to package into such a small enclosure. I look forward to hearing what it can do in the car.
> 
> Even more impressive is the quick and helpful responses in this thread as questions/issues arise from those close to the source. That's nothing short of awesome.
> 
> If anyone has successfully used an XP laptop to connect to their 6to8 over BT, please share. I'm not a computer novice and I could not make it work. Now that it's working, it's more of a curiosity vs a need for me but perhaps useful for someone searching the thread for helpful info.
> 
> What I would really like to see is some expansion to the Android app's functionality. Some improvements in the software GUI's design would be nice too.
> 
> cheers


----------



## Gadget01

gtaphile said:


> I just bought a D2-100.4 DSP and a D2-150.2 in February. I didn't buy the BT module or the wired remote.
> 
> Should I be concerned about the USB input for set-up?
> 
> My plan is to set up and lock it down and using the head unit volume for control.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


It could be yours is just fine... and if it is, be very careful with it. Probably best to plug in a USB cable and leave it. The USB connector socket on my 6to8 (and many others from what I've read about in this thread) is wonky. It probably worked fine out of the box and after a few plug-in/unplug cycles, one or more solder joints failed. Instead of mounting the connector to the main board, it should have been mounted to the panel. 

That aside, it's a stellar DSP and sounds great. Tuning with it via BT is convenient once you have a workable setup. Windows 7 or newer is recommended. I recently tried it with a Windows 8.1 Asus tablet and it worked great.


----------



## tonny

Gadget01 said:


> It could be yours is just fine... and if it is, be very careful with it. Probably best to plug in a USB cable and leave it. The USB connector socket on my 6to8 (and many others from what I've read about in this thread) is wonky. It probably worked fine out of the box and after a few plug-in/unplug cycles, one or more solder joints failed. Instead of mounting the connector to the main board, it should have been mounted to the panel.
> 
> That aside, it's a stellar DSP and sounds great. Tuning with it via BT is convenient once you have a workable setup. Windows 7 or newer is recommended. I recently tried it with a Windows 8.1 Asus tablet and it worked great.


I don't agree with that, I have 2 6to8 dsp's one in each car, and been tuning one for more than 2 years with constant changing setup and have never had any problems with the usb port….


----------



## gtaphile

Gadget01 said:


> It could be yours is just fine... and if it is, be very careful with it. Probably best to plug in a USB cable and leave it. The USB connector socket on my 6to8 (and many others from what I've read about in this thread) is wonky. It probably worked fine out of the box and after a few plug-in/unplug cycles, one or more solder joints failed. Instead of mounting the connector to the main board, it should have been mounted to the panel.
> 
> That aside, it's a stellar DSP and sounds great. Tuning with it via BT is convenient once you have a workable setup. Windows 7 or newer is recommended. I recently tried it with a Windows 8.1 Asus tablet and it worked great.


Thank you!


----------



## Gadget01

tonny said:


> I don't agree with that, I have 2 6to8 dsp's one in each car, and been tuning one for more than 2 years with constant changing setup and have never had any problems with the usb port….


Good to hear yours have remained reliable. I've carefully read through this thread from post #1 twice or more and I noticed a trend that leads me to question if there might be something to it beyond a couple of isolated cases of USB ports gone bad. My point is, if you come across a 6to8 and the USB port is a bit wonky, it probably shouldn't come as a huge surprise. I don't think it warrants much of a concern beyond that. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## SPAZ

These USB issues seen does it affect both the 4v and 8v versions?


----------



## outroku

Gadget01 said:


> Adding AMAS and a practical interface is something worth exploring but I'm not convinced the expense is justified. *By practical interface, I mean something that's fixed in the car, safe to operate and not tedious to manage content.*


This is the question I have for those running the AMAS. What are you guys using as a practical interface while driving to control the AMAS?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> This is the question I have for those running the AMAS. What are you guys using as a practical interface while driving to control the AMAS?


I use a Pebble Smart Watch, works perfectly!!


----------



## outroku

I'll also ask...what are you guys using as an interface for the AMAS regardless of practicality?

I ask because I am now an owner of one.


----------



## SPAZ

Hello, where can I download the latest firmware for the mosconi 6to8 v8? Thanks


----------



## ndm

SPAZ said:


> Hello, where can I download the latest firmware for the mosconi 6to8 v8? Thanks


GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## SPAZ

Thanks ndm


----------



## Offroader5

I would like to use my Win8 tablet as a source. In an effort to be perfectly clear on what I'd need to set this up, I'm going to ask some questions that have more than likely been asked previously.

I assume that if all I want to do is connect the tablet via optical cable to the 6to8, I will need a DAC (I have the Behringer UCA202) and the SP-DIF module.

However, if I wanted to connect via bluetooth, I would need the SP-DIF Multi instead along with the AMAS. Would I still need the BT module, or is that already incorporated into the SP-DIF or AMAS?

Also, if I need to pick up some add ons for my 6to8....Cobb, can you get me what I need?


----------



## jtaudioacc

Offroader5 said:


> I would like to use my Win8 tablet as a source. In an effort to be perfectly clear on what I'd need to set this up, I'm going to ask some questions that have more than likely been asked previously.
> 
> I assume that if all I want to do is connect the tablet via optical cable to the 6to8, I will need a DAC (I have the Behringer UCA202) and the SP-DIF module.
> 
> However, if I wanted to connect via bluetooth, I would need the SP-DIF Multi instead along with the AMAS. Would I still need the BT module, or is that already incorporated into the SP-DIF or AMAS?
> 
> Also, if I need to pick up some add ons for my 6to8....Cobb, can you get me what I need?


this works awesome with the normal spdif card. no hands free talking though.


----------



## cobb2819

ndm said:


> GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY





SPAZ said:


> Thanks ndm


This is for the software only, not the firmware. If you can confirm which firmware if currently installed on the DSP, I might be able to point you in the right direction.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> I assume that if all I want to do is connect the tablet via optical cable to the 6to8, I will need a DAC (I have the Behringer UCA202) and the SP-DIF module.
> 
> However, if I wanted to connect via bluetooth, I would need the SP-DIF Multi instead along with the AMAS. Would I still need the BT module, or is that already incorporated into the SP-DIF or AMAS?
> 
> Also, if I need to pick up some add ons for my 6to8....Cobb, can you get me what I need?


Can you tell me what you mean by "connect via bluetooth". So would you like to play audio through the dac, and program via bluetooth?


----------



## Offroader5

cobb2819 said:


> Can you tell me what you mean by "connect via bluetooth". So would you like to play audio through the dac, and program via bluetooth?


I'd like to stream the audio from the PC/tablet via bluetooth straight to the Mosconi. Can I even do that? :surprised: I wouldn't mind programing via BT just for the ease of it, but I have no issues using the USB cable. 

I assume after the AMAS is installed, I would have to pair it with the tablet and tell the tablet to output audio through that BT device. I don't know, the whole BT thing is still a bit new to me.


----------



## Offroader5

jtaudioacc said:


> this works awesome with the normal spdif card. no hands free talking though.


What is this part? I don't see a AMAS-2 part number on the Mosconi site.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> I'd like to stream the audio from the PC/tablet via bluetooth straight to the Mosconi. Can I even do that? :surprised: I wouldn't mind programing via BT just for the ease of it, but I have no issues using the USB cable.
> 
> I assume after the AMAS is installed, I would have to pair it with the tablet and tell the tablet to output audio through that BT device. I don't know, the whole BT thing is still a bit new to me.


Since you're using a tablet, I would take JT's advice, and use the new AMAS 2 and the SP-Dif board. If you want to program via BT, just get the Bluetooth Module and pair it separately. The software will pair to the BR Module, and the AMAS 2 will be used for audio streaming. You can use the AMAS and SP-Dif Multi Board if you want everything in one footprint. You would also need the BT Module if you want to program via bluetooth.


----------



## Offroader5

cobb2819 said:


> Since you're using a tablet, I would take JT's advice, and use the new AMAS 2 and the SP-Dif board. If you want to program via BT, just get the Bluetooth Module and pair it separately. The software will pair to the BR Module, and the AMAS 2 will be used for audio streaming. You can use the AMAS and SP-Dif Multi Board if you want everything in one footprint. You would also need the BT Module if you want to program via bluetooth.


Ahh, I see. Just found the AMAS-2 on the site. So essentially, you connect the AMAS-2 via TOSLINK cable to the SP-DIF input and wire the pigtail to power, ground & remote. That sounds like the easy solution.

Now I just need to know who to order from and how much of my hard earned tax refund will have to be allocated.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> Now I just need to know who to order from and how much of my hard earned tax refund will have to be allocated.


Dealer Locator – Mosconi America


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> You can use the AMAS and SP-Dif Multi Board if you want everything in one footprint. You would also need the BT Module if you want to program via bluetooth.


Perhaps I misunderstood, but I just installed the AMAS and SP-Dif Multi Board and am able to program via bluetooth without the BT Module. In fact, the sticker on the wrapping of the AMAS piece says:


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Perhaps I misunderstood, but I just installed the AMAS and SP-Dif Multi Board and am able to program via bluetooth without the BT Module. In fact, the sticker on the wrapping of the AMAS piece says:


Correct, but in the case where you might want to stream to the AMAS from one source and tune from another, this is not possible. The Bluetooth module is a cheap accessory to make sure that all options are covered.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Correct, but in the case where you might want to stream to the AMAS from one source and tune from another, this is not possible. The Bluetooth module is a cheap accessory to make sure that all options are covered.


In other words, stream from a (for example) smart phone via bluetooth and program from a (for example) laptop via bluetooth simultaneously from the AMAS? If so, I was able to successfully do both simultaneously from just the AMAS (no BT Module required) the other day.

Was my case an anomaly?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> In other words, stream from a (for example) smart phone via bluetooth and program from a (for example) laptop via bluetooth simultaneously from the AMAS? If so, I was able to successfully do both simultaneously from just the AMAS (no BT Module required) the other day.
> 
> Was my case an anomaly?


You could connect multiple devices to your AMAS module directly?


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> You could connect multiple devices to your AMAS module directly?


Yes sir. I had my iphone playing via bluetooth to the AMAS. While it was playing, I connected my laptop via bluetooth to the AMAS. The only hiccup was it took twice as long to load the 4 presets. But once they were loaded, I could change settings while listening to my iphone.

I initially doubted it would work, thus the reason why I held on to my BT Module until I could confirm the AMAS could pull double duty.


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> I initially doubted it would work, thus the reason why I held on to my BT Module until I could confirm the AMAS could pull double duty.


Then yeah, anomaly, just like some guys can actually get the USB to work with an AMAS installed. When I do it they just fight and never get anything accomplished. For simplicity sake, that's why i recommend the BT Module...it's been the rock when it comes to situations like this.


----------



## outroku

outroku said:


> This is the question I have for those running the AMAS. What are you guys using as a practical interface while driving to control the AMAS?


cobb, what are you using as an interface for song-surfing to the AMAS? The iphone 6Plus? What are some other practical suggestions?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> cobb, what are you using as an interface for song-surfing to the AMAS? The iphone 6Plus? What are some other practical suggestions?


Really anything you want. I use my phone because I've got the 128gb and don't wanna carry multiple devices around. It's all personal preference.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Then yeah, anomaly, just like some guys can actually get the USB to work with an AMAS installed. When I do it they just fight and never get anything accomplished. For simplicity sake, that's why i recommend the BT Module...it's been the rock when it comes to situations like this.


Ha! I also got the USB to work with the AMAS installed. Worked great. Then I tried bluetoothing both the iphone and laptop via AMAS. Worked great too, but like I said, it took the presets about 4-5 mins to load. Next time, I'll connect the laptop first, load the presets, then connect the iphone and see if the AMAS continues to be happy. Will respond back.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Really anything you want. I use my phone because I've got the 128gb and don't wanna carry multiple devices around. It's all personal preference.


It's just not practical while driving. Any other practical solutions besides mounting a tablet? I want to keep the eyes on the road as much as possible. Song-surfing on the phone is worse than texting. 

Plus my iphone 4s will not make a call while connected to the AMAS. I plan to get another device for music storage. Wondering all the possibilities.


----------



## outroku

palldat said:


> Ended up running a 3tb drive via toslink to my 6to8.


palldat, what model do you have?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Plus my iphone 4s will not make a call while connected to the AMAS. I plan to get another device for music storage. Wondering all the possibilities.


Probably because you need to program the DSP for handsfree calling, and install the mic. The reason, I assume, why your phone will not make a call while paired to the AMAS is because it's using the AMAS as the handsfree device, so it is trying to make the call happen over the dsp. When you call people while paired, can they hear you but you cannot hear them?


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Probably because you need to program the DSP for handsfree calling, and install the mic. The reason, I assume, why your phone will not make a call while paired to the AMAS is because it's using the AMAS as the handsfree device, so it is trying to make the call happen over the dsp. When you call people while paired, can they hear you but you cannot hear them?


I have the "Handsfree" option in my Acura. Should I pair the iphone to the car (in addition to the AMAS) in order to make a call?

I'm not sure if they can hear me or not.


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> I have the "Handsfree" option in my Acura. Should I pair the iphone to the car (in addition to the AMAS) in order to make a call?
> 
> I'm not sure if they can hear me or not.


The thing that I would recommend would be pairing to your car, and the AMAS. This will allow you to have full phone control and caller ID. Then try enabling AUX CH 6 in the mixer to allow the optical in to output on your front speakers. See if that doesn't help you out there.

As far as song surfing...put your phone on shuffle and enjoy.


----------



## palldat

outroku said:


> palldat, what model do you have?


I am running a Windows 8.1 PC and using toslink out to the 6to8. I have a 4tb USB3 hard drive.

I have a 9.7 inch touch screen controlling the PC. I can also use my Galaxy Note 10.1 via bluetooth and AMAS.


----------



## quality_sound

The LeechTunes app is AWESOME for in-car use. There's a lite version you can try to see if you like it. Add a Mountek or Exogear cd slot mount and you're golden. Easier that navigating most, if not every stereo I've ever owned, to include double DIN units, and no permanent mounting issues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## outroku

palldat said:


> I am running a Windows 8.1 PC and using toslink out to the 6to8. I have a 4tb USB3 hard drive.
> 
> I have a 9.7 inch touch screen controlling the PC. I can also use my Galaxy Note 10.1 via bluetooth and AMAS.


Thanks. Where did the 9.7 inch touch screen come from?


----------



## outroku

quality_sound said:


> The LeechTunes app is AWESOME for in-car use. There's a lite version you can try to see if you like it. Add a Mountek or Exogear cd slot mount and you're golden. Easier that navigating most, if not every stereo I've ever owned, to include double DIN units, and no permanent mounting issues.


VERY nice! Now I have an idea. Wonder if I could take a big cd slot mount and fabricate a combination of a mini tablet sitting on top of a DSP-RCD?


----------



## DLO13

outroku said:


> It's just not practical while driving. Any other practical solutions besides mounting a tablet? I want to keep the eyes on the road as much as possible. Song-surfing on the phone is worse than texting.
> 
> Plus my iphone 4s will not make a call while connected to the AMAS. I plan to get another device for music storage. Wondering all the possibilities.


Sounds like you need a bigger phone... 4s is pretty tiny. Get a 6 plus and i don't think you will have the same issues.


----------



## quality_sound

outroku said:


> VERY nice! Now I have an idea. Wonder if I could take a big cd slot mount and fabricate a combination of a mini tablet sitting on top of a DSP-RCD?


Mountek and Exogear both make tablet mounts as well. At least for the smaller tablets.


----------



## quality_sound

DLO13 said:


> Sounds like you need a bigger phone... 4s is pretty tiny. Get a 6 plus and i don't think you will have the same issues.


LeechTunes on my 6 Plus is awesome


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Really anything you want. I use my phone because I've got the 128gb and don't wanna carry multiple devices around. It's all personal preference.


cobb, since the iphone won't play FLAC files, I assume you convert your FLAC files to ALAC?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> cobb, since the iphone won't play FLAC files, I assume you convert your FLAC files to ALAC?


I use FLAC Player which is an app that will play FLAC on the iPhone.


----------



## outroku

DLO13 said:


> Sounds like you need a bigger phone... 4s is pretty tiny. Get a 6 plus and i don't think you will have the same issues.


Since I'm frequently in and out of my car, I don't want to have to grab my phone from a CD slot holder every time, so I'd much prefer to have a dedicated tablet for the AMAS.

Love the iphone, so I'm leaning towards an ipad mini. But am open to other tablets (< 8") that will fit a CD slot holder.

Of course, max storage is priority.

Suggestions?


----------



## outroku

quality_sound said:


> LeechTunes on my 6 Plus is awesome


Will LeechTunes play FLAC files on Apple devices?


----------



## outroku

quality_sound said:


> Mountek and Exogear both make tablet mounts as well. At least for the smaller tablets.


Right. But am wondering if a smaller tablet on top of a DSP-RCD would make sense, both physical and logical sense.

This is what my OEM stereo looks like, thus the tablet (and possibly DSP-RCD) would have to go between the bottom of the A/C control buttons and top of the big control knob at the bottom (with "ENTER" on it). The length between those two is exactly 5".

Suggestions?


----------



## Offroader5

Got the SPDIF card installed along with wiring up the AMAS2 module. Connection was no problem. I do however have some questions.

On the input levels for the optical channels...where it says "not to start at 100%", should you then adjust up to 100% after it's up and connected? I started it up at 50% and gradually adjusted up to 80%. Should I put it all the way up to 100% like I would on the analog inputs?

On the trigger sensitivity adjustment, should it just be adjusted up to MAX to be certain the connection is always strong? Is there any issues with it running at MAX?


----------



## Precisionmike

I am trying to decide between the 6to8 and the PS8. Out of the box, which sounds better?


----------



## DLO13

Precisionmike said:


> I am trying to decide between the 6to8 and the PS8. Out of the box, which sounds better?


I don't think you would necessarily want them to have a signature sound - You would want an un-altered signal. 
Not sure if that's what ur asking...


----------



## Precisionmike

Correct. I have heard of only a couple of people A-B testing between the two. On both instances, they said the PS8 sounded a bit better.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> Got the SPDIF card installed along with wiring up the AMAS2 module. Connection was no problem. I do however have some questions.
> 
> On the input levels for the optical channels...where it says "not to start at 100%", should you then adjust up to 100% after it's up and connected? I started it up at 50% and gradually adjusted up to 80%. Should I put it all the way up to 100% like I would on the analog inputs?
> 
> On the trigger sensitivity adjustment, should it just be adjusted up to MAX to be certain the connection is always strong? Is there any issues with it running at MAX?


I just use 100% on the input/output mixer portion. As for the sensitivity adjustment, you might have change over issues with just setting it to max. It needs to be fine tuned to switch over right when it senses signal.


----------



## rcurley55

I have a really dumb question. I have a v8, but my amplifiers only take a maximum of 4V on the input side. 

Can I turn this thing down?


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> I have a really dumb question. I have a v8, but my amplifiers only take a maximum of 4V on the input side.
> 
> Can I turn this thing down?


Yes, It will be a mixture of input and output, and not going into the line driver portion of the Output Levels tab. I doubt you'll have a problem with just normal operation of the DSP.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> Yes, It will be a mixture of input and output, and not going into the line driver portion of the Output Levels tab. I doubt you'll have a problem with just normal operation of the DSP.


Great - thanks for the quick response. I have a follow up question - my system is as follows - and here are my target crossover points:

4" component set (passive) in front doors - 180 Hz and up - 75W each
8" midbass under seats - 70 to 180 hZ - 200W each
12" subwoofer in the truck - 70 Hz and down - 600W total

When I enter my crossovers, I get the screenshot below. I have been stacking 12 dB filters to get the desired response. What I notice is that my midbass ends up WAY below the output of the other channels.










Should I use a mix of gain and cut to get them closer to equal? Or should I be generally ok given the power that I'm using?

(I don't know why this processor is making me feel like SUCH a noob).


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> Great - thanks for the quick response. I have a follow up question - my system is as follows - and here are my target crossover points:
> 
> 4" component set (passive) in front doors - 180 Hz and up - 75W each
> 8" midbass under seats - 70 to 180 hZ - 200W each
> 12" subwoofer in the truck - 70 Hz and down - 600W total
> 
> When I enter my crossovers, I get the screenshot below. I have been stacking 12 dB filters to get the desired response. What I notice is that my midbass ends up WAY below the output of the other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I use a mix of gain and cut to get them closer to equal? Or should I be generally ok given the power that I'm using?
> 
> (I don't know why this processor is making me feel like SUCH a noob).


When it comes to this, do it by ear, and not the graph. If your midbass is blending appropriately, for the less than an octave that it is playing, then you're good. You will always want to mix in level adjustment to get things to blend accordingly, and make your fine adjustments.


----------



## SoundtrackTJ

rcurley55 said:


> Great - thanks for the quick response. I have a follow up question - my system is as follows - and here are my target crossover points:
> 
> 4" component set (passive) in front doors - 180 Hz and up - 75W each
> 8" midbass under seats - 70 to 180 hZ - 200W each
> 12" subwoofer in the truck - 70 Hz and down - 600W total
> 
> When I enter my crossovers, I get the screenshot below. I have been stacking 12 dB filters to get the desired response. What I notice is that my midbass ends up WAY below the output of the other channels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I use a mix of gain and cut to get them closer to equal? Or should I be generally ok given the power that I'm using?
> 
> (I don't know why this processor is making me feel like SUCH a noob).



I'm actually experiencing this exact issue right now! I have pretty much the exact setup as you rcurley: 4" doors w/ passive crossover tweeters, 8" underseats, trunk sub. Love my f30  I have the 6to8 v8 with crossover points setup at almost the same levels as you've mentioned and I hear the midbase cutting out tremendously at times, with lower bass dominating some songs too much. I have an appointment at the shop I purchased the DSP from, they say they have a "master tuner" who can really get into it. Hoping he can do some things using all the other features of this fine instrument.


----------



## rcurley55

SoundtrackTJ said:


> I'm actually experiencing this exact issue right now! I have pretty much the exact setup as you rcurley: 4" doors w/ passive crossover tweeters, 8" underseats, trunk sub. Love my f30  I have the 6to8 v8 with crossover points setup at almost the same levels as you've mentioned and I hear the midbase cutting out tremendously at times, with lower bass dominating some songs too much. I have an appointment at the shop I purchased the DSP from, they say they have a "master tuner" who can really get into it. Hoping he can do some things using all the other features of this fine instrument.


Cool - let me know what you come up with. This was always the issue with my MS-8 system - no midbass - perhaps it was just the system architecture that was screwy.


----------



## Hammer1

Anybody having problems with the USB port on the processor. I went out to do some tuning and could not get it to connect. Checked the usb and the connector on the board has come off the board. Also my RCD controller will not adjust volume when it is cold out. Once the cab warms up it works fine. Looks like I need both replaced.


----------



## crackinhedz

Is the Android app still available? I can't seem to find it in the Google store.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> Is the Android app still available? I can't seem to find it in the Google store.


GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


That is a dead link on the mosconi site


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> That is a dead link on the mosconi site


interesting...i'll ask about that.


----------



## thehatedguy

It works here.


----------



## crea_78

Android app is still in the google store. Just search for Mosconi (may have to tap on more apps) and you will find it.


----------



## crackinhedz

crea_78 said:


> Android app is still in the google store. Just search for Mosconi (may have to tap on more apps) and you will find it.


very odd, I cannot find it. Not from my LG G3 phone, nor from my home windows PC.


----------



## crea_78

crackinhedz said:


> very odd, I cannot find it. Not from my LG G3 phone, nor from my home windows PC.


Your right, not there anymore??? I downloaded it a couple weeks ago. I may be able to pull the apk from my phone and upload it to my google drive. Will let you know if I can do it.


----------



## TexZen

crackinhedz said:


> very odd, I cannot find it. Not from my LG G3 phone, nor from my home windows PC.


----------



## crea_78

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0z1hQSTSn0rTVprcUJVeWh4bjA/edit?usp=docslist_api


----------



## crea_78

The above link is the Mosconi Android app through Google Drive. Let me know if it works. Those without Drive on your phone, hit the blue download button when the page pops up.

One other thing, the app will not work with 5.1 but not sure about 5.0 - 5.0.2. I had to downgrade my Nexus 5 to 4.4.4 just for this app + better battery life.


----------



## crackinhedz

Thanks crea that worked!


----------



## TexZen

crea_78 said:


> The above link is the Mosconi Android app through Google Drive. Let me know if it works. Those without Drive on your phone, hit the blue download button when the page pops up.
> 
> One other thing, the app will not work with 5.1 but not sure about 5.0 - 5.0.2. I had to downgrade my Nexus 5 to 4.4.4 just for this app + better battery life.


 Seems to work fine on 5.0.1

Thanks!


----------



## crea_78

Glad it worked


----------



## nanohead

I know this has been asked, but I couldn't find any details. My 6to8 is on FW 1.4, and I suspect it should be updated to 1.44. Is there any way to do this? or does it have to be sent somewhere to be updated.

Also, is there anyway to do a complete reset of the unit?


----------



## cobb2819

nanohead said:


> I know this has been asked, but I couldn't find any details. My 6to8 is on FW 1.4, and I suspect it should be updated to 1.44. Is there any way to do this? or does it have to be sent somewhere to be updated.
> 
> Also, is there anyway to do a complete reset of the unit?


Your DSP is most likely on 1.44 as the software only displays a single decimal point. There is a sticker on the box, and the bottom side of the DSP with the actual FW number on it.

As for a complete reset. Open the software, click copy data TO dsp, click ok to agree to override all info on the dsp. After it's done doing it's thing, go into one of the presets and click the Reset Remote Control Level button, then click ok to accept the error message. After these steps are complete, your unit will perform like a fresh out of the box install.


----------



## nanohead

cobb2819 said:


> Your DSP is most likely on 1.44 as the software only displays a single decimal point. There is a sticker on the box, and the bottom side of the DSP with the actual FW number on it.
> 
> As for a complete reset. Open the software, click copy data TO dsp, click ok to agree to override all info on the dsp. After it's done doing it's thing, go into one of the presets and click the Reset Remote Control Level button, then click ok to accept the error message. After these steps are complete, your unit will perform like a fresh out of the box install.


Thanks! You're always around here for us hacks.

This unit had been sent to you about a year and a half ago for an update, bought it from a member here. So the sticker is probably out of date, but not sure. I've had some bluetooth flakiness, so figured maybe the firmware could be updated. Been using USB so not the end of the world.

I'll try the reset too, so thanks for that as usual.


----------



## rcurley55

Another dumb question - well 2 actually:

1. Can the housing be rotated on the unit? I want "Mosconi" to be facing the other way
2. Can you run the unit without the aluminum top, just the bottom part?


----------



## Mic10is

rcurley55 said:


> Another dumb question - well 2 actually:
> 
> 1. Can the housing be rotated on the unit? I want "Mosconi" to be facing the other way
> 2. Can you run the unit without the aluminum top, just the bottom part?


Yes it can be rotated. I did it on mine


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> Another dumb question - well 2 actually:
> 
> 1. Can the housing be rotated on the unit? I want "Mosconi" to be facing the other way
> 2. Can you run the unit without the aluminum top, just the bottom part?


1) - Yes

2) Yes, but why?? Not only does it function as the heat sync and chassis for grounding, but it also protects the internals from foreign objects.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> 1) - Yes
> 
> 2) Yes, but why?? Not only does it function as the heat sync and chassis for grounding, but it also protects the internals from foreign objects.


Thanks for the quick response. I am thinking of disguising the 6to8 as an amplifier, so I want to cover it up - I'm not sure if I will need the extra clearance or not.


----------



## tonny

The dsp can get hot so I would always use some kind off heat sync!


----------



## nanohead

Well, it looks like output channel 7 died on my unit. Only hisses when I activate it, no signal. I had my rear fill speakers running through 7/8, so I had to wire around it direct to the amp. 

I wonder if it can be fixed, or is the unit borked. Too bad, as I finally have the hang of the unit and the software, and I have the best tune I've ever done with it


----------



## cobb2819

nanohead said:


> Well, it looks like output channel 7 died on my unit. Only hisses when I activate it, no signal. I had my rear fill speakers running through 7/8, so I had to wire around it direct to the amp.
> 
> I wonder if it can be fixed, or is the unit borked. Too bad, as I finally have the hang of the unit and the software, and I have the best tune I've ever done with it


This would be the first time i've ever encountered a channel going out. Try resetting the DSP as per the steps on the last page, and then set crossovers manually (read...do not load an existing file). See what happens.


----------



## nanohead

Thanks Cobb. I'll give it a shot. I did this already, but will try it again. I do find it odd that only one channel went out. But its dead as a doornail. I did see where a couple of other people had a similar problem, and resetting the headroom management system fixed it. I tried that too.

Also, per your earlier advice, I looked on the bottom, and it says V 1.03. It was likely a very early unit, as its been updated to V1.4 (at least). I've been having a devil of a time with Bluetooth as well, it drops connections constantly, as well as freezes. I even bought a new BT dongle for my laptop.

Also, if I am the one guy who has a dead channel, is there any way to repair it?

Thanks for all your advice!!


----------



## crackinhedz

Also a basic install questions:


What is the recommended guage power/ground/remote wires for the 6to8? 


The remote from headunit to the 6to8 is considered ACC correct? And then for B+ can I connect to the fuse box (constant on) or is it best to go direct connect to the battery? Would much prefer using fuse tap at the box. And grounded of course.

Also I would fuse, is 1 amp fuse sufficient for the 6to8?

Next I will conect the remote out from the 6to8 to a relay to turn on the amps. Again, for the relay can I use B+ constant at the fuse box? Would another 1amp fuse be sufficient for powering on amps? 

Can I just simply fuse both the 6to8 and relay to the same fuse tap and 2 amp fuse?


Electrical wiring is a little nerve racking to me...I want to do it right. Thanks for any help! I have searched the forums thoroughly, but could not find specific examples and the 6to8 manual is a little vague.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> What is the recommended guage power/ground/remote wires?


I just use normal primary wire...so 16?? gauge.




crackinhedz said:


> The remote from headunit to the 6to8 is considered ACC correct? And then for B+ can I connect to the fuse box (constant on) or is it best to go direct connect to the battery? Would much prefer using fuse tap at the box. And grounded of course.


The remote from the headunit to the 6to8 is considered remote, but you can use a vehicles accessory circuit to turn on the dsp is low level mode. B+ is constant 12v. 



crackinhedz said:


> Next I will conect the remote out from the 6to8 to a relay to turn on the amps. Again, for the relay can I use B+ constant at the fuse box? Would another 1amp fuse be sufficient for powering on amps?


Are you using high level inputs?



crackinhedz said:


> Can I just simply fuse both the 6to8 and relay to the same fuse tap and 2 amp fuse?
> 
> 
> Electrical wiring is a little nerve racking to me...I want to do it right. Thanks for any help! I have searched the forums thoroughly, but could not find specific examples and the 6to8 manual is a little vague.


Technically yes.


----------



## crackinhedz

cobb2819 said:


> The remote from the headunit to the 6to8 is considered remote, but you can use a vehicles accessory circuit to turn on the dsp is low level mode. B+ is constant 12v.


so aside from the remote, I would still need to connect two power wires at the fuse box, one for Constant and one for ACC? 

This is where I get confused with electrical. 




cobb2819 said:


> Are you using high level inputs?


RCA's from the 6to8 to the amps, if thats what you mean?


I appreciate your help.


----------



## sirbOOm

Does this flatten the factory signal on its own like a 360.3?
What percentages would one use to sum tweeter, midrange, and sub signals after a factory EQ'd amplifier?


----------



## crea_78

Just wondering, with my 6to8v8, my DSP is making a hissing noise coming out of my tweeters. I had someone take a look at it today and confirmed it was indeed the 6to8 and not the amplifiers or RCAs making the noise. Any one else having this problem and is there a solution to fix the noise. Thanks


----------



## Extended Power

I haven't measured the output of my HU signal yet, but I'm wondering if it's worth it to upgrade to the V8 from the regular 4 volt output model 6 to 8?
The Kenwood DNN991HD has an output of 5 volts, but like I mentioned, I have not verified that yet...
So what happens to the 5 volt signal from the HU...does it get downsized to 4 volts from the 6 to 8?
If I go through all the steps of setting up the Mosconi, and then chose to upgrade later on, would I be able to leave the gains on the amps alone, or would I have to turn them down? (Thinking it would be the same clean signal, just way stronger.)


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> so aside from the remote, I would still need to connect two power wires at the fuse box, one for Constant and one for ACC?


No...The DSP needs either Batt (+), Ground, and Remote...OR it needs Batt (+), Ground, and Accessory



crackinhedz said:


> RCA's from the 6to8 to the amps, if thats what you mean?


No...are you using a factory head unit or factory amplifier to feed signal into the DSP, or are you using a digital source??


----------



## cobb2819

sirbOOm said:


> Does this flatten the factory signal on its own like a 360.3?
> What percentages would one use to combine tweeter and "the rest" signal?


No, the DSP will not do anything automatically. 

as for your percentages, 100% because you want all of the signal from each input.


----------



## cobb2819

crea_78 said:


> Just wondering, with my 6to8v8, my DSP is making a hissing noise coming out of my tweeters. I had someone take a look at it today and confirmed it was indeed the 6to8 and not the amplifiers or RCAs making the noise. Any one else having this problem and is there a solution to fix the noise. Thanks


Try pressing the reset remote control level button in the dsp software while paired to the unit.


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> I haven't measured the output of my HU signal yet, but I'm wondering if it's worth it to upgrade to the V8 from the regular 4 volt output model 6 to 8?
> The Kenwood DNN991HD has an output of 5 volts, but like I mentioned, I have not verified that yet...
> So what happens to the 5 volt signal from the HU...does it get downsized to 4 volts from the 6 to 8?
> If I go through all the steps of setting up the Mosconi, and then chose to upgrade later on, would I be able to leave the gains on the amps alone, or would I have to turn them down? (Thinking it would be the same clean signal, just way stronger.)


You will want to retune your amps because you will be building a new tuning file into the DSP. You 5V form the kenwood isn't 5V so to speak, it's got the capability of reaching 5v. To properly setup the dsp, you might have to attenuate the DSP's input pots to keep the unit from muting due to being over driven. This will be essentially cutting your input, but not by much, if any. Now the DSP have 4v outputs which means you won't be losing much signal, and it is still very usable. The V8 version does have a line driver built into it, but really it's used for headroom, so on the average install, you won't be using the line driver, but it's there incase you need it.


----------



## gstokes

Adam, go here>>>> System Noise


----------



## crackinhedz

cobb2819 said:


> No...are you using a factory head unit or factory amplifier to feed signal into the DSP, or are you using a digital source??


sorry, I'll be using a CarPC via Optical.


Thanks for your guidance! Much appreciated.


----------



## palldat

crackinhedz said:


> sorry, I'll be using a CarPC via Optical.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your guidance! Much appreciated.


I am currently running a PC and am running the 6to8. What issues are you experiencing?


----------



## crackinhedz

palldat said:


> I am currently running a PC and am running the 6to8. What issues are you experiencing?


I have not installed yet, was trying to game plan the install. Electrical wiring in general is a little confusing to me so was trying to understand what goes where.

Since you run a carPC, with Optical will I still need the 6to8 controller or can I just use the PC/steering wheel volume control?


----------



## palldat

crackinhedz said:


> I have not installed yet, was trying to game plan the install. Electrical wiring in general is a little confusing to me so was trying to understand what goes where.
> 
> Since you run a carPC, with Optical will I still need the 6to8 controller or can I just use the PC/steering wheel volume control?


There is no way for the steering wheel controls to interface with the 6to8. The controller is highly recommended even over the phone app.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> I have not installed yet, was trying to game plan the install. Electrical wiring in general is a little confusing to me so was trying to understand what goes where.
> 
> Since you run a carPC, with Optical will I still need the 6to8 controller or can I just use the PC/steering wheel volume control?





palldat said:


> There is no way for the steering wheel controls to interface with the 6to8. The controller is highly recommended even over the phone app.


You can use the RC-Mini controller and an IR Steering wheel interface (Pac SWI-X) for the volume of the 6to8, and then it's just a matter of programming to make sure that the proper module is doing the appropriate function.


----------



## palldat

cobb2819 said:


> You can use the RC-Mini controller and an IR Steering wheel interface (Pac SWI-X) for the volume of the 6to8, and then it's just a matter of programming to make sure that the proper module is doing the appropriate function.


That's why they pay you the BIG money my friend 

You coming out for the May event?


----------



## cobb2819

palldat said:


> That's why they pay you the BIG money my friend


They Do?



palldat said:


> You coming out for the May event?


yeah...probably.


----------



## Mic10is

Will a 6to8 accept differential balanced inputs like Acura/Honda OEM systems have post amp?


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> Will a 6to8 accept differential balanced inputs like Acura/Honda OEM systems have post amp?


Post amp, as in the High Level outputs of the amp, or Pre Amp feeing the amplifier? The Acura OEM headunit has very low output levels which the 6to8 does not love to see, but it will work, while the factory amplifier will not have any problems feeding the DSP.


----------



## Mic10is

cobb2819 said:


> Post amp, as in the High Level outputs of the amp, or Pre Amp feeing the amplifier? The Acura OEM headunit has very low output levels which the 6to8 does not love to see, but it will work, while the factory amplifier will not have any problems feeding the DSP.


06 TSX with Nav. I'm still learning what all I need to do to build this car. Not fond of integrated HVAC and Head units that cant be removed


----------



## cobb2819

Mic10is said:


> 06 TSX with Nav. I'm still learning what all I need to do to build this car. Not fond of integrated HVAC and Head units that cant be removed


Best suggestion would be to get measurements of what the factory head unit output is and the factory amplifier output is, and see which is going to be best for the application. The unit wants between 2-8v of low level signal. Anything lower is not always ideal, but is usable.


----------



## Bnixon

Hey Cobb2819,

I have the 6to8 v8 and can not get the MOS-BTM to work with the DSP-AMAS. When I boot it with the BT in I can see it on my laptop and iPad and it will show as connected but it locks up the 6to8 and it won't even turn off until I remove the BT card. Can you help me get it up and running so I can tune and stream audio from my iPad?

My only audio source is my iPad.

Thanks!
Brandon


----------



## cobb2819

Bnixon said:


> Hey Cobb2819,
> 
> I have the 6to8 v8 and can not get the MOS-BTM to work with the DSP-AMAS. When I boot it with the BT in I can see it on my laptop and iPad and it will show as connected but it locks up the 6to8 and it won't even turn off until I remove the BT card. Can you help me get it up and running so I can tune and stream audio from my iPad?
> 
> My only audio source is my iPad.
> 
> Thanks!
> Brandon


So you have your iPad connected to the DSP_6to8 Device, and your computer is paired to the Mosconi_Gladen device? Is the Mos BTM plugged in with the word Mosconi facing the controller port?


----------



## Bnixon

As soon as I connect one the 6to8 is not showing as available on the other device. And yes the mosconi logo is facing the connector or left if your are looking at the panel. Any ideas?


----------



## cobb2819

Bnixon said:


> As soon as I connect one the 6to8 is not showing as available on the other device. And yes the mosconi logo is facing the connector or left if your are looking at the panel. Any ideas?


This is correct, your DSP is technically 2 DIFFERENT BT Devices. Your computer needs to be paired to the Mosconi-Gladen Bluetooth device for programming. The "DSP_6to8" Bluetooth Device is the AMAS and will only support one connection at a time. Some users have gotten lucky and been able to do two, but it is slow and unresponsive at times. The Mos BTM will be displayed when searching for Bluetooth devices as Mosconi-Gladen.


----------



## Bnixon

Interesting I haven't seen that BT device in the list. Let me try it again and see if it shows up.


----------



## Bnixon

Every time I start the 6to8 with the BT card in it just locks up the unit. It will not turn off until I pull the BT card out... What do you think?


----------



## cobb2819

Bnixon said:


> Every time I start the 6to8 with the BT card in it just locks up the unit. It will not turn off until I pull the BT card out... What do you think?


PM Sent


----------



## rcurley55

I just got my 6to8 v8 installed this weekend and I have a few questions. The setup is as follows:

Factory iDrive (hi-fi, not logic 7) tapped pre-amplifier with a Technic harness
6to8 v8
JL Audio XD600/6 powering Morel Hybrid Ovation 4" comps passive and Jehnert XE200 under seats
JL Audio XD600/1 powering a 12W6v2 in a JL Stealthbox

Right now, the input gains on the 6to8 are pegged as low as they will go and the input set to "Low" - is that correct? I also have the amp remote connected to the unit, then daisy chaining to the two amplifiers, is that also correct?

I'm not getting a ton of volume out of the system - in fact if I turn it way up, it starts to cut out. The gains on the JL amps are also pegged as low as they will go. I have a touch of alternator whine as well.

Thoughts?


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> I just got my 6to8 v8 installed this weekend and I have a few questions. The setup is as follows:
> 
> Factory iDrive (hi-fi, not logic 7) tapped pre-amplifier with a Technic harness
> 6to8 v8
> JL Audio XD600/6 powering Morel Hybrid Ovation 4" comps passive and Jehnert XE200 under seats
> JL Audio XD600/1 powering a 12W6v2 in a JL Stealthbox
> 
> Right now, the input gains on the 6to8 are pegged as low as they will go and the input set to "Low" - is that correct? I also have the amp remote connected to the unit, then daisy chaining to the two amplifiers, is that also correct?
> 
> I'm not getting a ton of volume out of the system - in fact if I turn it way up, it starts to cut out. The gains on the JL amps are also pegged as low as they will go. I have a touch of alternator whine as well.
> 
> Thoughts?


With regard to the remote, that is fine because the technic harness comes with a relay for remote power, so you will have enough current. 

As for the cutting out, are you referring to the entire audio system is muting at a certain volume? And when you say pegged as low as it goes, you're talking about -12dB of attenuation (fully counter clockwise)??


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> With regard to the remote, that is fine because the technic harness comes with a relay for remote power, so you will have enough current.


That's what I figured - the autosense switch is set to BLT



> As for the cutting out, are you referring to the entire audio system is muting at a certain volume? And when you say pegged as low as it goes, you're talking about -12dB of attenuation (fully counter clockwise)??


Yes, full counter clockwise. I can turn my headunit up all the way under this config and it's not even loud. If I turn the input gains up a bit, then turn the headunit up, all audio will cut out.

I'm not sure if this setup is considered Low-Level (that's what I think it is) or high-level on the input side.

I guess I had figured that with the v8, I wouldn't have to crack the gains on my amplifiers, but I guess I do?


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> That's what I figured - the autosense switch is set to BLT
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, full counter clockwise. I can turn my headunit up all the way under this config and it's not even loud. If I turn the input gains up a bit, then turn the headunit up, all audio will cut out.
> 
> I'm not sure if this setup is considered Low-Level (that's what I think it is) or high-level on the input side.
> 
> I guess I had figured that with the v8, I wouldn't have to crack the gains on my amplifiers, but I guess I do?


It is low level, and it sounds like the dsp portion is being configured properly as for attenuating the input side to counter over voltage input. As far as the last sentence, you will still need to properly configure the amplifiers based on the actual output voltage of the DSP. I would also recommend, while in the software, paired to the dsp, and while playing low volume, that you press the reset remote control level button in the software (in one of the presets along the bottom row) to undo any auto calibration that might be limiting output. Once this is done, still while playing low volume, turn the volume up and down a bit to recal the dsp, and see if that doesn't change the output a bit. Then you will need to adjust your amp gains to work hand in hand with the dsp.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> It is low level, and it sounds like the dsp portion is being configured properly as for attenuating the input side to counter over voltage input. As far as the last sentence, you will still need to properly configure the amplifiers based on the actual output voltage of the DSP. I would also recommend, while in the software, paired to the dsp, and while playing low volume, that you press the reset remote control level button in the software (in one of the presets along the bottom row) to undo any auto calibration that might be limiting output. Once this is done, still while playing low volume, turn the volume up and down a bit to recal the dsp, and see if that doesn't change the output a bit. Then you will need to adjust your amp gains to work hand in hand with the dsp.


Great - will try this - thanks for your prompt responses!


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> That's what I figured - the autosense switch is set to BLT


MMMMM BLT


----------



## papasin

cobb2819 said:


> MMMMM BLT



Lol. Still requesting a like button.


----------



## Extended Power

Removed the older 4 volt 6to8, and installed the newer v8 model last night.
I also started playing with the scope I bought off fleebay.
So I thought I would check the output voltages, starting with the HU. (Kenwood DNN991HD)
While playing a 1000hz tone, I can get as high as 4.30volts out of the HU on the front, and rear outputs at maximum volume. (Set at 35)
So since it didn't clip, I hooked up the new v8, and measured the output voltage going to the amp...
I was expecting close to 8volts, but only got like 1.83mv.
After not having any luck, I hooked the output from the v8 back to the amp, and measured off the speaker outputs of the amp, and it was easy to make the target voltages. (Using a multimeter.)
Some poor lighting in the shop...and I'm getting older....maybe I messed something up, but does that seem normal? (Not getting the 8 volts out of the DSP, not me losing my eyesight at my age.)


----------



## tonny

The output also depends off the input setting soft the dsp, and the setup off it, so check if that's right before you do any measurements.


----------



## Extended Power

In the mixer tab?
Yes, 100% to the amp in question.


----------



## tonny

and the input pots on the dsp next to the inputs?


----------



## Extended Power

tonny said:


> and the input pots on the dsp next to the inputs?


Maxed out my friend..fully clockwise.
Push buttons are "out" for low input signal.

I'll have another look tomorrow...


----------



## cobb2819

The output of the DSP is dependent on crossovers and output levels. Turn off all the crossovers and measure again. Also, if you are not in the +dB portion of levels, then you are not within the line driver portion of the DSP.


----------



## [email protected]

about to install a 6to8v8 using the speaker level outputs from my stock E46 Business CD player it's the basic system without Bose or external amplifier and gas a reasonably flat output. So would people advise using a Hilo convertor or just letting the 6to8 do all the conversion.. was kind of thinking the latter..

Thanks guys..


----------



## cobb2819

[email protected] said:


> about to install a 6to8v8 using the speaker level outputs from my stock E46 Business CD player it's the basic system without Bose or external amplifier and gas a reasonably flat output. So would people advise using a Hilo convertor or just letting the 6to8 do all the conversion.. was kind of thinking the latter..
> 
> Thanks guys..


Just use the DSP. Have you measured output voltage of the stock head unit??


----------



## [email protected]

nope and don't have the equipment to test it..
This is all a bit of new territory for me.. always been analogue and done by ear in the past..


----------



## Extended Power

Here is what I found out this afternoon:
-even though the output voltage of the HU gets up to 4.30v, it does not clip on the scope.
-found out that the 6to8 does not like that high of an input voltage. (Red status light kept flashing until I turned down the volume knob to 3.40v input to it.) which was literally 34 out of 35.
-the JL 450/4v2 had to have the input voltage changed to "high" on both channels 1&2 as well as 3&4, or I could not dial the voltage output of the amp down far enough. (Could only drop as far as 20volts, when they ask for 17.5v, etc.)
-dropped the HU output volume down to 33, turned the RDC for the Mosconi up to 34, and set the voltages from one end to the other.
All good!
Swapped out the Clarus 61-2 component set out for the L6SE mids, and LR1Pro tweeters...set the high pass on the mids to 60Hz, and 2500 for the tweeters...sounds absolutely clear...no distortion at all.

Only issue is the software says that there is no connection to the Mosconi, yet the changes I make on screen are instantly changed on the DSP.


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> It is low level, and it sounds like the dsp portion is being configured properly as for attenuating the input side to counter over voltage input. As far as the last sentence, you will still need to properly configure the amplifiers based on the actual output voltage of the DSP. I would also recommend, while in the software, paired to the dsp, and while playing low volume, that you press the reset remote control level button in the software (in one of the presets along the bottom row) to undo any auto calibration that might be limiting output. Once this is done, still while playing low volume, turn the volume up and down a bit to recal the dsp, and see if that doesn't change the output a bit. Then you will need to adjust your amp gains to work hand in hand with the dsp.


This worked perfectly. As soon as I reset the remote control level I had output as expected. Thank you!


----------



## justdofit

G'day 6to8 experts.

I have had the DSP for a little while and absolutely love it!

I feed my factory deck in as Hi - level and was able to smooth out the input signal nicely with the input eq.

Yesterday I installed the spdif-multi and dsp-amas, the amas works like a charm and is crystal clear.

Now I'm wondering if the digital inputs (amas included) use the input eq? Or if it only applies to analogue sources?

At the moment I have a preset with a flat input eq (no settings applied) that I'm using with the amas. I have the mini DRC mounted low on the dash so this isn't a problem, as switching presets is totally painless.

I was going to plug the DSP outputs into my laptop again (with tru RTA) to check if input eq was applied to all inputs but I thought I'd ask the question first 

Basically it would just save having a dedicated preset for the amas or the factory deck etc... But not a big deal at all


----------



## cobb2819

The Optical sources do pass through the input EQ, so a dedicated preset is the best option.


----------



## JRIGGS1

I just had my 6to8 v8 along with the mini controller installed but can't seem to get access to the fader function (level of fronts vs rear speakers) from the control. Can someone tell me how to do this from the control? Also, the sub level from the mini control doesn't make any difference - does this level work only on output channels 7-8?


----------



## Hammer1

Sub output is only adjustable on Channels 7/8. Not sure about fader as I have the rcd controller


----------



## donotattempt

^^ what he said. I did the troubleshooting as well as realized the sub is controlled via channels 7/8. I have the larger controller, cannot really help. I would think it would be the same function; press/click the knob, it should change, then rotate the knob left/right and see if there is a difference.... Check you controller manual, that should clear a few things up (not being a smart pants). 

Hope this helps,
Sam


----------



## JRIGGS1

donotattempt said:


> ^^ what he said. I did the troubleshooting as well as realized the sub is controlled via channels 7/8. I have the larger controller, cannot really help. I would think it would be the same function; press/click the knob, it should change, then rotate the knob left/right and see if there is a difference.... Check you controller manual, that should clear a few things up (not being a smart pants).
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Sam


Ok, I will will connect the sub with outputs 7/8 - I am sure that was the problem. However, regarding the fader control using the mini remote, does anyone have any idea?? The manual isn't clear and I cant figure it out?!


----------



## Hugg727

donotattempt said:


> Check your controller manual, that should clear a few things up (not being a smart pants).


Of course, this is assuming that Mosconi gives you a proper manual....they dont

It has to be some combo of clicks...on the larger RCD 1 click gets me to the sub level, 2 clicks gets me to fader/balance, 3 clicks are for presets


----------



## cobb2819

JRIGGS1 said:


> Ok, I will will connect the sub with outputs 7/8 - I am sure that was the problem. However, regarding the fader control using the mini remote, does anyone have any idea?? The manual isn't clear and I cant figure it out?!


The mini does not do fade/balance.


----------



## JRIGGS1

cobb2819 said:


> The mini does not do fade/balance.


That's strange!! The Mosconi site clearly states "fader" as a function for the Mini RC on their website and the manual also mentions a fader function (although without specifying how to access it). Are you sure??


----------



## cobb2819

JRIGGS1 said:


> That's strange!! The Mosconi site clearly states "fader" as a function for the Mini RC on their website and the manual also mentions a fader function (although without specifying how to access it). Are you sure??


It would be programmable through wireless remote only.


----------



## #1BigMike

So I have a question in regards to the amas/sp-dif pieces. I purchased these for my 6to8. It plays bt audio (iPhone ) really well however, I no longer can use my factory buttons to stroll through songs. It is done via iPhone now which is a no no. I really prefer hands free driving. Also when connected to the preset with amas I can't use my bt phone? Any advice or is this the way it is


----------



## JRIGGS1

cobb2819 said:


> It would be programmable through wireless remote only.


I am sorry for being ignorant but you explain that please?


----------



## payluder

What is the lastest firmware for the 6to8 v8? Mine shows 1.45v8


----------



## payluder

Leechtunes full version is free for limited time on the app store now 6/3/2015


----------



## quality_sound

Dammit. I paid for it. It was only a few bucks, but still. Free is free. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cobb2819

JRIGGS1 said:


> I am sorry for being ignorant but you explain that please?


The RC Mini has the capability of being controlled via an IR remote control. The balance and fader functions are programmed via setup, and can only be controlled via the IR remote control.


----------



## cobb2819

payluder said:


> What is the lastest firmware for the 6to8 v8? Mine shows 1.45v8


1.45 is the current version.


----------



## broo0d

#1BigMike said:


> So I have a question in regards to the amas/sp-dif pieces. I purchased these for my 6to8. It plays bt audio (iPhone ) really well however, I no longer can use my factory buttons to stroll through songs. It is done via iPhone now which is a no no. I really prefer hands free driving. Also when connected to the preset with amas I can't use my bt phone? Any advice or is this the way it is


Yes you can use existing controls, but you need to build an adapter yourself using Arduino.

Or go to amazon and search for "steering wheel bluetooth buttons".


----------



## cobb2819

#1BigMike said:


> So I have a question in regards to the amas/sp-dif pieces. I purchased these for my 6to8. It plays bt audio (iPhone ) really well however, I no longer can use my factory buttons to stroll through songs. It is done via iPhone now which is a no no. I really prefer hands free driving. Also when connected to the preset with amas I can't use my bt phone? Any advice or is this the way it is


Since I can only assume that your iPhone is not your only source. have you tried plugging your phone into the vehicle the normal way, selecting it as a source on your head unit, and then from the pull up dock on your phone, select DSP_6to8 as you audio output device?? I did this all the time with my Alpine double din and just a standard USB cable.


----------



## crackinhedz

Finally have my 6to8 installed to my CarPC via Optical connection. The CarPC does control overall volume of the optical, so the 6to8 remote control is not a requirement to control volume...thats a plus, though I dont know if theres any dynamic range differences with vol level between the two.

I do have a question though, channel 3 and 4 from dsp to my R/L mids (channel 3 and 4) of my JL XD800/8, sound only comes out of left mid...seems they both come out of the same left mid. I mute and unmute the channels and they seem to come out of the same speaker.

Im sure im missing something?


----------



## t3sn4f2

crackinhedz said:


> Finally have my 6to8 installed to my CarPC via Optical connection. The CarPC does control overall volume of the optical, so the 6to8 remote control is not a requirement to control volume...thats a plus, though I dont know if theres any dynamic range differences with vol level between the two.


Depends on the OS and sound drivers used. But really, for anything after Windows XP, it is not a concern. And even then, if the sound card used was a pro audio type it would likely have had its own HQ drivers that bypassed any lower quality sound drivers in the OS (IE ASIO replacing Kmixer).


----------



## donotattempt

I must say going from the 6to8 to 360.3 to 6to8 to 6to8V8. The v8 does handle things better than the other. After the initial setup of the 6to8V8 is sounding great. Even though my subs still mutes when I play "R-kelly stay home tonight", no big deal since I just reduce the input gain pot . 

After messing around with and a big thanks to ndn for the tuning solution ....really helped. My car sounds absolutely awesome. Definitely not the loudest I have had, certainly the clearest.

I was between jumping to the DSP pro, bust decided since I already have the V8 I will do the best with it, I am happy with it. The remote does help with dynamic range.... Turning the system down so that valet guys won't whale on it .

Sam.


----------



## #1BigMike

Hey guys I have a AMAS/SP-DIF related question. For the last 2 weeks I have been able to stream via BT to the AMAS flawlessly. However, the last couple of days that has not been the case. 

When trying to pair with the unit I am getting the following msg on my phone.



Now before I get a comedian to ask if the 6to8 is turned on etc.. Here are the steps I have taken (per conversation with Jacob).

1. Ran external AMAS antenna to front of car (didn't have to do this before).
2. Took DSP apart to make sure everything was connected nice and snug.
3. Swapped AMAS/SP-DIF uint in spare 6to8

After reinstalling everything I am having the same issue.

I can play BT through OEM system just fine. But when I disconnect from car BT system and connect to AMAS, it will only work if the phone is right next to the dsp in rear hatch area.

Well you might ask, why not disregard the AMAS and played through the other presets? I am here to tell you, if you have a factory HU and a 6to8, the AMAS is a must have !!!! The sound is fantastic especially when playing high res files (i have invested a **** ton of money in).

So this hiccup is really pissing me off. There must be some type of interference or something has all of a sudden started to crap out. Not Sure, oh I also turned my wifi off on phone just in cased that hindered anything.

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cobb2819

#1BigMike said:


> Hey guys I have a AMAS/SP-DIF related question. For the last 2 weeks I have been able to stream via BT to the AMAS flawlessly. However, the last couple of days that has not been the case.
> 
> When trying to pair with the unit I am getting the following msg on my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> Now before I get a comedian to ask if the 6to8 is turned on etc.. Here are the steps I have taken (per conversation with Jacob).
> 
> 1. Ran external AMAS antenna to front of car (didn't have to do this before).
> 2. Took DSP apart to make sure everything was connected nice and snug.
> 3. Swapped AMAS/SP-DIF uint in spare 6to8
> 
> After reinstalling everything I am having the same issue.
> 
> I can play BT through OEM system just fine. But when I disconnect from car BT system and connect to AMAS, it will only work if the phone is right next to the dsp in rear hatch area.
> 
> Well you might ask, why not disregard the AMAS and played through the other presets? I am here to tell you, if you have a factory HU and a 6to8, the AMAS is a must have !!!! The sound is fantastic especially when playing high res files (i have invested a **** ton of money in).
> 
> So this hiccup is really pissing me off. There must be some type of interference or something has all of a sudden started to crap out. Not Sure, oh I also turned my wifi off on phone just in cased that hindered anything.
> 
> Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Just for giggles, did you try a different phone?


----------



## payluder

#1BigMike said:


> Hey guys I have a AMAS/SP-DIF related question. For the last 2 weeks I have been able to stream via BT to the AMAS flawlessly. However, the last couple of days that has not been the case.
> 
> When trying to pair with the unit I am getting the following msg on my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> Now before I get a comedian to ask if the 6to8 is turned on etc.. Here are the steps I have taken (per conversation with Jacob).
> 
> 1. Ran external AMAS antenna to front of car (didn't have to do this before).
> 2. Took DSP apart to make sure everything was connected nice and snug.
> 3. Swapped AMAS/SP-DIF uint in spare 6to8
> 
> After reinstalling everything I am having the same issue.
> 
> I can play BT through OEM system just fine. But when I disconnect from car BT system and connect to AMAS, it will only work if the phone is right next to the dsp in rear hatch area.
> 
> Well you might ask, why not disregard the AMAS and played through the other presets? I am here to tell you, if you have a factory HU and a 6to8, the AMAS is a must have !!!! The sound is fantastic especially when playing high res files (i have invested a **** ton of money in).
> 
> So this hiccup is really pissing me off. There must be some type of interference or something has all of a sudden started to crap out. Not Sure, oh I also turned my wifi off on phone just in cased that hindered anything.
> 
> Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.




Hi mike have you tried to forgot the Bluetooth device on the phone and have the phone relearn again? Also have you tired to use a different device to see if you haven't the same issues?


----------



## #1BigMike

cobb2819 said:


> Just for giggles, did you try a different phone?


Yes sir lol. I used the wifes phone and same thing.



payluder said:


> Hi mike have you tried to forgot the Bluetooth device on the phone and have the phone relearn again? Also have you tired to use a different device to see if you haven't the same issues?


Yes sir I disconnected the device from the phone and the phone from the car. Tried it all from scratch. Same issue.

I just don't understand how it could be working fine and then go bonkers? Sad thing is, I have a feeling is going to be something small that's the Monkey wrench.


----------



## #1BigMike

Is there away to hard wire into the AMAS Through a cord of some sort? Then I can plug straight into my phone. My damn Touareg doesn't have a USB connector either. So hands free and being able to use steering functions is non existent when hooked up to amas still.


----------



## Hammer1

Might want to check antenna wire and see if it got pinched and is now broken. You said it works when close to dsp


----------



## #1BigMike

Hammer1 said:


> Might want to check antenna wire and see if it got pinched and is now broken. You said it works when close to dsp


Here is the deal with that. When things were working, I had the antenna connected straight to the unit. I did not even need the cable. It was after speaking with Jacob and his suggestion that I got the cable out. I didn't even think I had the cable. Thank God I keep all my boxes (for the most part). So the cable is brand new.

Couple of options if I can't figure this out. Might buy a new AMAS or switch to the DSP PRO. Hopefully we can figure things out.


----------



## Hammer1

How old is the amas card. They should swap you out with a new one. I have never had a problem with mine. Good luck and I bet they will take care of you they have some excellent customer service


----------



## #1BigMike

The AMAS card is about 7-8 months old. Yes, Mosconi (Oraca) has very good customer service/tech support (Jacob). I am sure I can get it swapped with no issue. I just want to make sure, that I exhaust all possible trouble shooting options. I would hate to get a replacement and have the same issue.


----------



## cobb2819

Mike,

Can you disconnect the remote wire and then jump the remote with the battery feed and fire up the processor with no other equipment running?? There might be some interference being generated.


----------



## #1BigMike

Jacob PM sent.


----------



## quality_sound

#1BigMike said:


> Is there away to hard wire into the AMAS Through a cord of some sort? Then I can plug straight into my phone. My damn Touareg doesn't have a USB connector either. So hands free and being able to use steering functions is non existent when hooked up to amas still.


You should have the MDI connector in the center console or glove box. Get the MDI-USB connector and there you go. You can get the OEM one (which I feel is better quality and easier to remove than the aftermarket one) or save a few bucks and get one on eBay or Amazon.


----------



## #1BigMike

quality_sound said:


> You should have the MDI connector in the center console or glove box. Get the MDI-USB connector and there you go. You can get the OEM one (which I feel is better quality and easier to remove than the aftermarket one) or save a few bucks and get one on eBay or Amazon.


I purchase the OEM MDI-Lightning cable but it only charges the phone. It doesn't transmit data. Once it is connected to the phone it automatically cuts out BT streaming to AMAS.


----------



## quality_sound

Yep. Most OEM systems won't allow BT and Lightning connections simultaneously and the USB connection takes priority over BT. You should be able to get audio over ISB though. The POS in my WRX will play audio over Lightning. With the MDI-USB you could use a thumb drive and high def files, well, as high as Audi will allow 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crackinhedz

Couple q's, thought I had seen discussed previously in this thread but unable to find...

My firmware says 1.4, but the newest is 1.45 correct? Where do I find and how to install?

Also, when adjusting EQ I cannot seem to get back to 0db exact...seems to want to go +/- 0.1 , what am I missing?


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> Couple q's, thought I had seen discussed previously in this thread but unable to find...
> 
> My firmware says 1.4, but the newest is 1.45 correct? Where do I find and how to install?
> 
> Also, when adjusting EQ I cannot seem to get back to 0db exact...seems to want to go +/- 0.1 , what am I missing?


The software says 1.4, but what does the sticker on the box, or on your 6to8 case say??

as for 0.0...click on the para eq button, and get to 0.0


----------



## crackinhedz

cobb2819 said:


> The software says 1.4, but what does the sticker on the box, or on your 6to8 case say??
> 
> as for 0.0...click on the para eq button, and get to 0.0


thanks Cobb, the box shows 1.45 

And the peq trick set things back to 0. Thanks.


Now something odd I experienced...was messing with the mids playing a test tone 70hz and as soon as I hit volume 34 out of 35 on the controller the tone comes out of my tweets. Scared the sh*t out of me. Crossovers in the DSP are set, so im wondering if the mid channels bleed into the tweet channel? Or an issue in the amp? Volume 33 and below its fine, tweets are silent.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Hammer1

I just got the amas-2 and sometimes it won't connect with my iPad. I have to shut the truck off and restart it for it to connect. If I shut down and restart iPad it does nothing. Unit is only a couple inches behind iPad. Both lights are flashing but sometime iPad will not even show it under Bluetooth devices


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## crackinhedz

Try airplane mode on the iPad, then turn off airplane mode...I have connectivity issues on my iPad (though not bluetooth nor do I have Amas2). Sometimes this clears it up for me.


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## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> I just got the amas-2 and sometimes it won't connect with my iPad. I have to shut the truck off and restart it for it to connect. If I shut down and restart iPad it does nothing. Unit is only a couple inches behind iPad. Both lights are flashing but sometime iPad will not even show it under Bluetooth devices


Can you tell me the FW number on your AMAS 2? It will be the number printed on the sticker on the circuit board of the DSP.


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## Hammer1

It is up:v1.0
Is there a newer firmware that corrects this problem.


----------



## crackinhedz

Dumb question, I have a mono sub amp...do I run channel 7 & 8 to the R/L inputs on the amp, or just channel 7 using Y splitter to the amp?


----------



## Hammer1

crackinhedz said:


> Dumb question, I have a mono sub amp...do I run channel 7 & 8 to the R/L inputs on the amp, or just channel 7 using Y splitter to the amp?


Run both 7 & 8 to the R/L channels on the amp.


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> It is up:v1.0
> Is there a newer firmware that corrects this problem.


Is the iPad the only device that has been paired to the AMAS-2.


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> Is the iPad the only device that has been paired to the AMAS-2.


Yes, Ipad is the only device I have paired to the Amas-2. going to try my IPhone 6 today and see if it does the same thing.


----------



## cobb2819

Also...random question, is the iPad Air relatively new, or...when it was originally setup, was it restored from a different iPad?


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> Also...random question, is the iPad Air relatively new, or...when it was originally setup, was it restored from a different iPad?


It is not a iPad Air. It is a iPad 3 and was not restored from a different ipad. Ipad is on the latest IOS.


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## cobb2819

Best suggestion would be to try resetting network connections in the DSP and see if that helps.


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## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> Best suggestion would be to try resetting network connections in the DSP and see if that helps.


Why would I need to go into dsp. The amas-2 is a standalone unit


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> Why would I need to go into dsp. The amas-2 is a standalone unit


Reset Network connection on the iPad, not the DSP or AMAS2


----------



## Hammer1

iPad has 4g lte and I tried turning off cellular and restarting. Nothing seems to work


----------



## Extended Power

Quick question on the Mosconi RCD...when it shows "Temporary Muted"....is it because it's too hot, or did I find a secret combination of fumbling finger/thumbs moves, that mutes the controller?


----------



## Hammer1

Extended Power said:


> Quick question on the Mosconi RCD...when it shows "Temporary Muted"....is it because it's too hot, or did I find a secret combination of fumbling finger/thumbs moves, that mutes the controller?


If you push and hold for 1 second on the rotary knob it will put it in Temporary mute. It is not a problem with it getting hot. Push the knob again takes it out of mute. If you push and hold knob for 3 seconds it will put it into setup menu.


----------



## cobb2819

^^ That.


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> Reset Network connection on the iPad, not the DSP or AMAS2


Found a cold solder joint on the Amas-2 where the red power wire connects to board. Resoldered it and it is now connecting every time. Problem solved. Thanks for the help cobb2819


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> Found a cold solder joint on the Amas-2 where the red power wire connects to board. Resoldered it and it is now connecting every time. Problem solved. Thanks for the help cobb2819


REALLY!?! That's rather shocking to me, but i'm glad all got worked out. So the AMAS-2 just wasn't turning on?


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> REALLY!?! That's rather shocking to me, but i'm glad all got worked out. So the AMAS-2 just wasn't turning on?


The lights would come on but would not even show up half the time on IPad under bluetooth. Dont think it was getting enough power. Found it when checking my wiring and when I moved the red wire the light quit moved it again it came back on. Works good now.

Question though is Illusion making the Carbon 3 without out the tweeter built into the 3 like the Carbon C4


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> Question though is Illusion making the Carbon 3 without out the tweeter built into the 3 like the Carbon C4


Yessiree, the C3 is currently available.


----------



## crackinhedz

Hammer1 said:


> Run both 7 & 8 to the R/L channels on the amp.


great, thanks!

Thats what I was thinking but wanted to be certain.


----------



## broo0d

I have accord 2013 with touch unit (alpine) and no amp. It only has high level output. 

I purchased 6to8v8 but didn't installed anything just yet. 
Does the v8 able to handle it or it is just like the non v8 version and need an additional line out converter?

Anyone tried David navone loc with the 6to8

davidnavone.com/product/n-rhl2-2-channel-50-watt-per-channel-line-output-converter/


----------



## tonny

The v8 can also handle high inputs even higher than the normal version!


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## broo0d

tonny said:


> The v8 can also handle high inputs even higher than the normal version!


I mean does it generates noise? becuase it is common with Hondal balanced output and 6to8.


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> Does the v8 able to handle it or it is just like the non v8 version and need an additional line out converter?


The 6to8 and 6to8V8 will both function properly in your vehicle. The device will take high level in without issue. The problem many ran into was the that factory amplified cars put out less than 1V RMS low level and would pickup noise, so the line driver was "required".


----------



## crea_78

broo0d said:


> I mean does it generates noise? becuase it is common with Hondal balanced output and 6to8.


I have a 2014 Accord with the 6to8 and I have a noise issue. Not sure if its the DSP or something else yet. My installer has gone through all the wiring for grounding issues and switched RCAs.

I even sent the unit off to Jacob and he said it wasn't making any noise for him. Yet, in my car, there is an issue.

I do have a cheap LOC installed but not sure if a better one will help or not. Could just be our cars being finiky with the Mosconi processor.

Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> The 6to8 and 6to8V8 will both function properly in your vehicle. The device will take high level in without issue. The problem many ran into was the that factory amplified cars put out less than 1V RMS low level and would pickup noise, so the line driver was "required".


So the loc is not needed and not needed to improve anything right?



crea_78 said:


> I have a 2014 Accord with the 6to8 and I have a noise issue. Not sure if its the DSP or something else yet. My installer has gone through all the wiring for grounding issues and switched RCAs.
> 
> I even sent the unit off to Jacob and he said it wasn't making any noise for him. Yet, in my car, there is an issue.
> 
> I do have a cheap LOC installed but not sure if a better one will help or not. Could just be our cars being finiky with the Mosconi processor.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Did your accord equipped with an OEM amp ?


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## crea_78

I have the Sport so no OEM amp.

Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## broo0d

crea_78 said:


> I have the Sport so no OEM amp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


That's bad news  
Did you try it without using loc?


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## crea_78

Haven't tried that yet

Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## broo0d

crea_78 said:


> Haven't tried that yet
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Anc module unplugged?


----------



## crea_78

broo0d said:


> Anc module unplugged?


Jacob thinks it might be the LOC installed. In a couple weeks, I will have my installer take a look at my car (again) and have him call Jacob to possibly narrow down where the noise is coming from.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6


----------



## opor212

I'm using mosconi 6to8 V8 have an issue about hissing/noise quite audible, and read several previous post in this thread but still not found clear solution about it. Does anyone can share a solution for me ? Thank's


----------



## cobb2819

opor212 said:


> I'm using mosconi 6to8 V8 have an issue about hissing/noise quite audible, and read several previous post in this thread but still not found clear solution about it. Does anyone can share a solution for me ? Thank's


Are you sure it's the DSP generating the noise? if you unplug the outputs to your amplifier, does the noise go away? If so, plug them back in and unplug the inputs to the dsp. Also...have you tried resetting the remote control level in the software?


----------



## opor212

cobb2819 said:


> Are you sure it's the DSP generating the noise? if you unplug the outputs to your amplifier, does the noise go away? If so, plug them back in and unplug the inputs to the dsp. Also...have you tried resetting the remote control level in the software?


Thank's cobb2819, yes when unplugged rca output the noise go away, I have tried to reset volume control level via software. Just information I'm using optical toslink from HU to DSP and mosconi A class for my amps. Sound amazing but the only problem is noise.


----------



## crea_78

opor212 said:


> Thank's cobb2819, yes when unplugged rca output the noise go away, I have tried to reset volume control level via software. Just information I'm using optical toslink from HU to DSP and mosconi A class for my amps. Sound amazing but the only problem is noise.


It's been a b**** trying figure out this problem... LOL. Mine right now is barely audible most of the time, but needs to be fixed eventually.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6


----------



## Extended Power

Silly question/concern I have with my 6to8v8:
Originally tried setting all gains with a Fluke 789, and an oscilloscope.

Head unit is a Kenwood DNN991HD, using the scope on the RCA's, there is no distortion, or clipping, at max volume. (Something like 4.2volts AC, measured with the scope, and Fluke)

Hook up the front RCAs to the inputs of Channel 1&2 on the DSP.

Hook up a short set of RCAs to channel 1&2 on the DSP, and connect the Fluke 789 to the other end to measure the output voltage of the DSP.

Using the disk that came with the DD-1 meter I bought, I played a 1000hz tone at 0db, and the DSP clips out right away.
So I play a 1000hz tone at -5db, and can get the output as high as 3.30vac before it starts to clip. (Red flashing LED)
I am able to dial channels 1&2 up to 6.67vac before the output drops to nothing...indicating that it muted itself.
I backed it down to 3.30vac again, and move to channels 3&4...(rear inputs from HU)
Same thing here...end up at 3.30vac to maintain a steady output with no flashing LED from the DSP.

Now here is where I am confused...
Using the sub out RCAs from the HU, and playing a 40hz test tone at -5db, results in only like 345 milli volts AC before it starts to clip. (Flash red really quickly and cuts out)

If I push the High/Low button on the DSP, it just makes it even worse. (Setting it to "High")

So all the inputs on the DSP are set on the "Low" input selection.
Max voltage out of the HU is ~4.1 volts AC.
Max voltage out of the DSP before clipping starts is only 3.30 volts AC on channels 1, 2, 3, & 4. (Not using 5 and 6 at this time.)
Max voltage out of the DSP on channels 7 & 8 is only 345 milli volts AC before extreme clipping starts. (Pretty much instantaneous cut out...no real slow flash on the LED)

HU is completely flat, no EQ at all.
DSP crossovers are all flat, as well as the channel levels.
DSP remote has the volume at 35/35
Tried the "sub" setting on the DSP at 7/15, but had no bass. (Went back and set it to 0/15)

-is it normal for the v8 model to only have ~3.5 vac output? (Shouldn't it be 8 volts?)
-is it normal for the sub channels to have such low output voltage? (345 milli-volts)

I did try moving all the input push buttons to the "high" setting, but then I could crank the input sensitivity all the way, and still not have even a single volt output. (No clipping/red flashing LED at all)


----------



## cobb2819

You will need to dial in the input attenuation pots on the side of the dsp to be able to take advantage of the full swing of radio volume. This will eliminate the automute, Step 1.

Have you pressed the reset remote control level button in the software? Try pressing this, then turning the volume down a couple clicks on the RCD then back up, same with the sub level. If you've been over driving the inputs of the DSP, it could be protecting itself from abuse, and attenuated itself. Pressing the reset button will undo this go back to normal operation.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> You will need to dial in the input attenuation pots on the side of the dsp to be able to take advantage of the full swing of radio volume. This will eliminate the automute, Step 1.
> 
> Have you pressed the reset remote control level button in the software? Try pressing this, then turning the volume down a couple clicks on the RCD then back up, same with the sub level. If you've been over driving the inputs of the DSP, it could be protecting itself from abuse, and attenuated itself. Pressing the reset button will undo this go back to normal operation.


I have been trying to adjust the input pots.
I have the HU at max volume, as it is not clipped. (Confirmed by scope)
I also have the DSP volume at 35 and now, the sub at zero. (On the rcd )

Last thing I tried was unplugging all the inputs but channels 1&2 to the dsp.
Also verified that the RCA's on channel 1 & 2 had 4.2vac going to the dsp input.
With nothing connected to the output channels, I hooked a set of good RCA's into the channel 1 & 2 output. 
With the input sensitivity on the dsp turned all the way down...I start to increase the output, but it will only put out 3.3vac before flashing red on the dsp.


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> I have been trying to adjust the input pots.
> I have the HU at max volume, as it is not clipped. (Confirmed by scope)
> I also have the DSP volume at 35 and now, the sub at zero. (On the rcd )
> 
> Last thing I tried was unplugging all the inputs but channels 1&2 to the dsp.
> Also verified that the RCA's on channel 1 & 2 had 4.2vac going to the dsp input.
> With nothing connected to the output channels, I hooked a set of good RCA's into the channel 1 & 2 output.
> With the input sensitivity on the dsp turned all the way down...I start to increase the output, but it will only put out 3.3vac before flashing red on the dsp.


Now...i'm assuming that the outputs levels on the DSP are set to 0, and that no crossovers are set at any point?


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> Now...i'm assuming that the outputs levels on the DSP are set to 0, and that no crossovers are set at any point?


Yes, you are correct.

Right now, I'm playing a 40Hz @ -5db test tone. (Disk came with the SMD DD-1)
I can plug the "test RCA" into each output channel, and no distortion is detected.
But...it doesn't even get a signal on channels 7 & 8.

Using the same "test RCA", and using the Fluke 789, I read:

3.003 vac on channel 1
2.963 vac on channel 2
2.996 vac on channel 3
2.978 vac on channel 4
3.003 vac on channel 5
2.957 vac on channel 6
221.5 milli volts on channel 7
220.7 milli volts on channel 8


----------



## Extended Power

With a 1KHz @ -5 db test tone, I am reading:

....damnit....flashing LED again, so I had to back down the sensitivity again...

2.675 vac on channel 1
2.638 vac on channel 2
2.668 vac on channel 3
2.651 vac on channel 4
2.675 vac on channel 5
2.632 vac on channel 6
197.1 milli volts AC on channel 7
196.4 milli volts AC on channel 8

This is the highest output I could get without the flashing LED when playing the 1KHz test tone. (-5db)


----------



## Extended Power

With the lowered input sensitivity, I went back and rechecked the 40Hz @ -5db test tone and found these output voltages now:

2.983 vac on ch. 1
2.941 vac on ch. 2
2.976 vac on ch. 3
2.957 vac on ch. 4
2.982 vac on ch. 5
2.936 vac on ch. 6
220.0 mVAC on ch. 7
219.2 mVAC on ch. 8


----------



## Extended Power

Going to switch out this DSP with the older model 6to8 and see what I get for readings...


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> You will need to dial in the input attenuation pots on the side of the dsp to be able to take advantage of the full swing of radio volume. This will eliminate the automute, Step 1.
> 
> Have you pressed the reset remote control level button in the software? Try pressing this, then turning the volume down a couple clicks on the RCD then back up, same with the sub level. If you've been over driving the inputs of the DSP, it could be protecting itself from abuse, and attenuated itself. Pressing the reset button will undo this go back to normal operation.


What should I have the volume set to on the HU, and the RCD, when I reset the remote control level?


----------



## cobb2819

HU Vol zero, rcd vol zero, sub level at zero. Press reset remote control level. Then turn the RCD vol back up to 35, then the sub level back up, then slowly raise the HU volume.

If the output is set to Zero (0), then yes, the numbers you are giving me, short of the subwoofer output numbers. The output would be lower due to attenuating the input signal. As for the "8v" portion, there is a line driver built into the DSP, so you can go above Zero (0) in the level settings to plug 6dB, this is where you get the additional output of the V8.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> HU Vol zero, rcd vol zero, sub level at zero. Press reset remote control level. Then turn the RCD vol back up to 35, then the sub level back up, then slowly raise the HU volume.
> 
> If the output is set to Zero (0), then yes, the numbers you are giving me, short of the subwoofer output numbers. The output would be lower due to attenuating the input signal. As for the "8v" portion, there is a line driver built into the DSP, so you can go above Zero (0) in the level settings to plug 6dB, this is where you get the additional output of the V8.


Ok, trying that now.

Thank you for your help btw


----------



## Extended Power

Done as per instructions.

Readings while playing the 1KHz @ -5 db test tone,

3.59 vac ch.1 (scope)
3.46 vac ch.2 (scope)
3.59 vac ch.3 (scope)
3.46 vac ch.4 (scope)
3.59 vac ch.5 (scope)
3.46 vac ch.6 (scope)
2.95 vac ch.7 (scope)
2.95 vac ch.8 (scope)

All readings are with HU, RCD, and sub on RCD set to max after resetting the control level on RCD.

Should I use -10db test tones?
The disk has 40Hz, and 1KHz test tones at 0, -5, -10, and -15db.
I had everything set before using 0db test tones, but the system wasn't loud enough for the power it has.


----------



## Extended Power

Using the Fluke meter I get:

3.082 vac ch.1
2.997 vac ch.2
3.075 vac ch.3
3.013 vac ch.4
3.082 vac ch.5
2.992 vac ch.6
2.575 vac ch.7
2.532 vac ch.8

I'd say the Fluke has better accuracy as far as measuring equipment goes.

The sub out is now set to 15 on the RCD, whereas before it was at zero. (Probably why it wasn't reading any voltage.)


----------



## cobb2819

So now set the gains on the amps with your chosen overlap and get to tuning.


----------



## Extended Power

Awesome, thank you for all your help today!


----------



## Offroader5

Any idea if the software is stable/compatible with Win 10? Want to upgrade the tablet to 10, but the tablet is all I use for tuning.


----------



## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> Any idea if the software is stable/compatible with Win 10? Want to upgrade the tablet to 10, but the tablet is all I use for tuning.


Have not heard yes or no...let me know, hahahaha.


----------



## Thunderplains

So Cobb..

Reading the thread with EP testing the power output, why is the v8 not hitting 8V? I have the same model and have been wondering that as well..


----------



## Thunderplains

Also, any firmware updates to the unit? I am currently running v1.4

Thx


----------



## cobb2819

Thunderplains said:


> So Cobb..
> 
> Reading the thread with EP testing the power output, why is the v8 not hitting 8V? I have the same model and have been wondering that as well..


Because EP was just in the normal hardware side of the DSP, not the line driver. the Level tab in the software has +6db of output above Zero. 



Thunderplains said:


> Also, any firmware updates to the unit? I am currently running v1.4
> 
> Thx


You're current.


----------



## crackinhedz

Question about using EQ/Peq

Lets say the EQ has bands at 150hz and 200hz... but I get a peak at 175hz that I want to tame. Do I change one of these bands to Peq and adjust from there? Therefor losing control over the original frequency band? Or lets say a peak at 150hz, 175hz and 200hz. do I just settle and compromise fighting two peaks instead of all three? 

Also, since Im new to Peq, and my sub channel has EQ at 50hz but I want to lower 45Hz so I change the 50hz EQ to a Peq @45hz instead...what Q would I use to cover a range of 10hz (effecting from 40hz to 50hz)?

Thanks in advance

Sorry if I make little sense.


----------



## donotattempt

crackinhedz said:


> Question about using EQ/Peq
> 
> Lets say the EQ has bands at 150hz and 200hz... but I get a peak at 175hz that I want to tame. Do I change one of these bands to Peq and adjust from there? Therefor losing control over the original frequency band? Or lets say a peak at 150hz, 175hz and 200hz. do I just settle and compromise fighting two peaks instead of all three?
> 
> Also, since Im new to Peq, and my sub channel has EQ at 50hz but I want to lower 45Hz so I change the 50hz EQ to a Peq @45hz instead...what Q would I use to cover a range of 10hz (effecting from 40hz to 50hz)?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Sorry if I make little sense.


To make this answer short and sweet; just change the frequency bands. It will take some doing and you will either have to remember the setting on the other bands or write them down, I wrote them down. Another thing you can do is to use two of the three point and then let the Q factor do its thing, the lower the Q value is the broader the effect is.

Same as above for the sub question, on my V8 I think the lowest Q value available is 0.5. It does take a little massaging to get it.

Hope this helps,
Sam


----------



## crackinhedz

Would a Q value of .5 at 45hz cover 40hz-50hz?


----------



## strakele

Random question.. I'm assuming the answer is no but would running 4 inputs (full range unprocessed front and rear from HU) have any positive or negative effect on the output vs just using 2? I'm still kinda annoyed at how far down I have to turn the input sensitivity.. just wondering if adding a second set of inputs would help anything.


----------



## donotattempt

strakele said:


> Random question.. I'm assuming the answer is no but would running 4 inputs (full range unprocessed front and rear from HU) have any positive or negative effect on the output vs just using 2? I'm still kinda annoyed at how far down I have to turn the input sensitivity.. just wondering if adding a second set of inputs would help anything.


It won't really help with any thing from the dsp section. What it will do however, is to an able you to have F/R/L/R arrangement from your head unit, providing you use the inputs with the appropriate channels.


----------



## strakele

I don't use any rear speakers - my thought was just to be able to add 'more' input. Like when you bridge some amps - they have more output when both input channels are used. So in the mixer I'd have 100% from inputs 1-4 instead of just 1 and 2. Again I'm pretty sure it doesn't work that way, but figured I'd ask just in case.


----------



## donotattempt

Correct, it doesn't work that way. If you have a pair of full range signal going to the dsp, that's all you need. In the input/output field, you'll setup that section.

Hope this helps


----------



## donotattempt

Double post


----------



## Offroader5

I can confirm that the software works on Win 10.


----------



## donotattempt

Offroader5 said:


> I can confirm that the software works on Win 10.


I second that confirmation.


----------



## doukhobar

Hello,

In the market for my first stand alone DSP.

I am considering buying the Mosconi 6to8 v8 for the 8v PreOut (and it appears to be made of very high quality components).

The next highest PreOuts on a DSP I can find is 6V on the Helix DSP Pro. 

My last system was 8 years ago (just getting back in the game - alot has changed!) and I ran off an Eclipse CD7100 with 8V PreOut. Awesome sound quality, which I attributed to the 8V PreOut and build quality. 

Are you guys getting very good results with this DSP in terms of the PreOut to the Amps? I see some measuremtns are coming in <8V, though I've read that was a similar phenomenon with the Eclipse HU, though I've never measured them myself. 

Last question: My plan is to run an Android Tablet running USB Audio Player Pro directly into the Mosconi using a USB->Optical converter and plug that into the Optical in on the DSP. I think that will give me full control of my system from the Tablet. 

Is that correct? No need for a head unit??

Thanks!!!


----------



## donotattempt

doukhobar said:


> Hello,
> 
> In the market for my first stand alone DSP.
> 
> I am considering buying the Mosconi 6to8 v8 for the 8v PreOut (and it appears to be made of very high quality components).
> 
> The next highest PreOuts on a DSP I can find is 6V on the Helix DSP Pro.
> 
> My last system was 8 years ago (just getting back in the game - alot has changed!) and I ran off an Eclipse CD7100 with 8V PreOut. Awesome sound quality, which I attributed to the 8V PreOut and build quality.
> 
> Are you guys getting very good results with this DSP in terms of the PreOut to the Amps? I see some measuremtns are coming in <8V, though I've read that was a similar phenomenon with the Eclipse HU, though I've never measured them myself.
> 
> Last question: My plan is to run an Android Tablet running USB Audio Player Pro directly into the Mosconi using a USB->Optical converter and plug that into the Optical in on the DSP. I think that will give me full control of my system from the Tablet.
> 
> Is that correct? No need for a head unit??
> 
> Thanks!!!


Hi.

The V8 is a great unit and I have mine connected to my stock head unit. Once you're completely tuned, you'll be rather surprised of the detail you get for the size for factor.

I have everything running through the stock radio, my phone via bluetooth, external drive via USB and ipad/samsung tablets via bluetooth......it doesn't skip a beat.

I do not have the sp-dif card installed and would imagine that it will be that much better, until then, I cannot really comment on that.

If you have any doubts about the output signal. Here is a video with my amplifiers gains turned all the way open at 8.6V.


----------



## #1BigMike

That is a bad ass video my friend. That damn car is loud!

I love it...


----------



## crackinhedz

That whistle was kinda hypnotic. 

Are those 8" or 10"s in the doors???


----------



## donotattempt

#1BigMike said:


> That is a bad ass video my friend. That damn car is loud!
> 
> I love it...


Thank you so much. It took a bit of planning, execution. . Went outside and took the video real quick with my cell phone .



crackinhedz said:


> That whistle was kinda hypnotic.
> 
> Are those 8" or 10"s in the doors???


Those are 10"s on the doors


----------



## doukhobar

While I have not read this entire thread, I've read most of it. There is lots of great info. 

On pg 63, Hextall 27 on 12-18-2014 asked about adding asynchronous USB DAC to this DSP. Cobb2819 replied:



cobb2819 said:


> Probably not due to the 6to8's ability to receive high res over bluetooth via the AMAS. The USB Dac seems like a good idea for a wired connection, but in all fairness, the world of wireless is what is taking over mobile electronics.


However, personally I have to say, I agree with Hextall, when he replies:



Hextall 27 said:


> Excuse my wireless ignorance but I thought that there was signal degradation using A2DP BT, is the EDR a new or different technology? My primary concern is getting the bit perfect digital signal into the processor, wireless convenience is a second or third concern for me.


Coming from the Home Audio world, there are not many people using Bluetooth to stream music on their systems. Wirelessly, this is done over a WiFi Network, where the DAC is connected to a tablet or PC that receives the wireless signal. BT is never implemented due to its generally poor job at transporting high quality audio. 

I've always been under the impression that a wired connection will produce better SQ than a wireless one. I mean, how could you beat optical output? 

Therefore, I agree it would be an advantage to have a USB input on your DSP that could input your streaming audio. 

The problem is jitter from USB signals and the need for a reclocker. This is now becoming more and more mainstream in Home Audio DACs and integrated Amps like the PeachTree Audio Nova 125SE and Wyred4Sound mINT. These are integrated DAC/Class-D amps that have well implemented USB inputs for linking your PC. 

If I want to get USB input from my mobile device into the Optical connection of the Mosconi, or any DSP, I need to convert this USB signal to Optical. I have been considering a home audio solution for this - the Wyred4Sound uLink. It unfortunately requires a powered. 

From their website:

The µLINK is where top quality USB connectivity meets low jitter S/PDIF conversion. A high performance USB interface built around XMOS technology is the cornerstone for the mighty converter. Delivering low latency and low jitter communication is a fundamental building block to attain the best audio quality from your DAC. Seamless integration with any operating system ensures that this ‘link’ is built to last and can adapt to change. Designed into an ultra compact chassis with versatility in mind, the µLINK offers a selection of three output connector types that can be used simultaneously to drive independent systems. If your DAC is lacking the USB quality or compatibility needed to keep up with your high resolution music collection, look no further than the µLINK.

I am a new member so can't post the link yet. 

Has anyone else considered this?

I should add this costs about $250 and requires no drivers for MAc or Linux implementation, but supposedly does for windows.

I see lots of people her stating that their Pure i20 produces the same SQ as their AMAS...how can this be possible?


----------



## broo0d

doukhobar said:


> While I have not read this entire thread, I've read most of it. There is lots of great info.
> 
> On pg 63, Hextall 27 on 12-18-2014 asked about adding asynchronous USB DAC to this DSP. Cobb2819 replied:
> 
> 
> 
> However, personally I have to say, I agree with Hextall, when he replies:
> 
> 
> 
> Coming from the Home Audio world, there are not many people using Bluetooth to stream music on their systems. Wirelessly, this is done over a WiFi Network, where the DAC is connected to a tablet or PC that receives the wireless signal. BT is never implemented due to its generally poor job at transporting high quality audio.
> 
> I've always been under the impression that a wired connection will produce better SQ than a wireless one. I mean, how could you beat optical output?
> 
> Therefore, I agree it would be an advantage to have a USB input on your DSP that could input your streaming audio.
> 
> The problem is jitter from USB signals and the need for a reclocker. This is now becoming more and more mainstream in Home Audio DACs and integrated Amps like the PeachTree Audio Nova 125SE and Wyred4Sound mINT. These are integrated DAC/Class-D amps that have well implemented USB inputs for linking your PC.
> 
> If I want to get USB input from my mobile device into the Optical connection of the Mosconi, or any DSP, I need to convert this USB signal to Optical. I have been considering a home audio solution for this - the Wyred4Sound uLink. It unfortunately requires a powered.
> 
> From their website:
> 
> The µLINK is where top quality USB connectivity meets low jitter S/PDIF conversion. A high performance USB interface built around XMOS technology is the cornerstone for the mighty converter. Delivering low latency and low jitter communication is a fundamental building block to attain the best audio quality from your DAC. Seamless integration with any operating system ensures that this ‘link’ is built to last and can adapt to change. Designed into an ultra compact chassis with versatility in mind, the µLINK offers a selection of three output connector types that can be used simultaneously to drive independent systems. If your DAC is lacking the USB quality or compatibility needed to keep up with your high resolution music collection, look no further than the µLINK.
> 
> I am a new member so can't post the link yet.
> 
> Has anyone else considered this?
> 
> I should add this costs about $250 and requires no drivers for MAc or Linux implementation, but supposedly does for windows.
> 
> I see lots of people her stating that their Pure i20 produces the same SQ as their AMAS...how can this be possible?


I considered this to be my source
HiFimeDIY Sabre U2 Asynchronous USB DAC
then after a lot of reading i bought amas instead...
i didn't installed anything yet.


----------



## doukhobar

Hi there,

Thanks for the link! However, it looks like this converts USB to analog signal - i.e. it has a 3.5mm headphone jack out. I wouldn't want to feed that into the Mosconi!

Do you think I should keep this topic on this thread, or move the discussion of USB input into DSP's into a new thread?

Also, bro0d, what did you read that made you choose AMAS?

Can anyone direct me to some good refernce material on the AMAS SQ and experience? I read a technical report from Mosconi on their AMAS input, and it looked like it was welded into their digital line input essentially. 

Anyone know more about how AMAS works?


----------



## broo0d

doukhobar said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Thanks for the link! However, it looks like this converts USB to analog signal - i.e. it has a 3.5mm headphone jack out. I wouldn't want to feed that into the Mosconi!
> 
> Do you think I should keep this topic on this thread, or move the discussion of USB input into DSP's into a new thread?
> 
> Also, bro0d, what did you read that made you choose AMAS?
> 
> Can anyone direct me to some good refernce material on the AMAS SQ and experience? I read a technical report from Mosconi on their AMAS input, and it looked like it was welded into their digital line input essentially.
> 
> Anyone know more about how AMAS works?


It can do optical output.

What i have read about the amas is it is not that bad and maybe in some cases cant hear any difference.


----------



## cobb2819

The Papasins and JT Audio both made the switch to the AMAS 2 and seem to really like the results, i've been running an AMAS module as my only source for quite some time and cannot tell a difference from when I was running an i20. Yes iOS does some downsampling, but whoopee, in a car driving down the road with even a hint of A/C on, that bit of difference is so minute that it was never worth the hassle of keeping a secondary item in the car to use as a source. It's not always about what it does on paper, it's about how it performs in application.


----------



## papasin

cobb2819 said:


> The Papasins and JT Audio both made the switch to the AMAS 2 and seem to really like the results, i've been running an AMAS module as my only source for quite some time and cannot tell a difference from when I was running an i20. Yes iOS does some downsampling, but whoopee, in a car driving down the road with even a hint of A/C on, that bit of difference is so minute that it was never worth the hassle of keeping a secondary item in the car to use as a source. It's not always about what it does on paper, it's about how it performs in application.



Fully agree. Actually, AMAS-2 in one vehicle, and regular AMAS in another with a 6to8v8. The latter is what I use in my electric (non comp) vehicle, but I'm pretty picky. Phone to HU to DSP via RCA vs. AMAS straight from phone, to my ears, I actually like the AMAS better. My $0.02 FWIW.


----------



## doukhobar

cobb2819 said:


> The Papasins and JT Audio both made the switch to the AMAS 2 and seem to really like the results, i've been running an AMAS module as my only source for quite some time and cannot tell a difference from when I was running an i20. Yes iOS does some downsampling, but whoopee, in a car driving down the road with even a hint of A/C on, that bit of difference is so minute that it was never worth the hassle of keeping a secondary item in the car to use as a source. It's not always about what it does on paper, it's about how it performs in application.


Thanks for the feedback regarding the other forum members. I would love to hear their opinions as well, and what their setups/experiences are exactly. 

Coming from a home audio background, I've always run optical from a top of the line sound card into a DAC with Paradigm 90P Monitors. They are incredible floor standing speakers which can resolve the smallest imperfections.Listening to mp3's vs wav is like using an aux input on a sony x-plod deck vs your Mosconi.

That being said, I do alot of critical listening in the car when the car is not moving (or running at all even) but sometimes with the doors open, sometimes me in the car - who knows?! But, definitely not always in the car driving with the windows down. I am a sound quality guy. 

I have a very hard time believing a BT source could produce the same results as a direct Toslink optical connection, as every other BT source I've heard has produced at best mediocre results. iOS seems to play at 44 khz/ 16 bit, and perhaps the ipohne even lower lif you are using the iphone DAC. 

There is no way I am going to spend $2k on speakers and subs and amps, not including the $700 for the Mosconi with Amas just to push a junk signal. IMO, getting the most out of your source is imperative to high SQ. 

That has jump started by route to look at wired USB->optical implementation. Both PeachTree and Wyred4Sound have USB-> optical or USB-coaxial converters that have re-clockers and procedures to eliminate the jitters associated with USB outputs. 

Check out this technical article on the Mosconi AMAS in the journal AUDIOreview. Pretty interesting. Not sure it answers our questions though...
http://mosconi-america.com/MosconiDSP-AMAS.pdf

Also, check out the PeachTree X1 X1 USB to SPDIF Converter - they specialize in integrated amps and DACs
X1 24/192 USB to SPDIF Converter | Peachtree Audio

Upgrade your USB DAC to Asynchronous 24/192

USB inputs on many DACs don’t support resolution beyond 16-bit/48kHz. The Peachtree Audio X1 USB to SPDIF Converter interfaces between your computer’s USB output and your DAC’s SPDIF input (coax or optical) to provide a high-resolution upgrade over your DAC's stock USB input.
The X1 lets you fully enjoy the highest-resolution digital music available – all the way to 24-bit/192kHz resolution!

I'm thinking about moving this conversation over to these two threads which seem to be addressing these or similar issues:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...on/174217-mosconi-amas-sp-dif-multi-help.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...857-istreamer-bitone-vs-mosconi-amas-add.html


----------



## doukhobar

papasin said:


> Fully agree. Actually, AMAS-2 in one vehicle, and regular AMAS in another with a 6to8v8. The latter is what I use in my electric (non comp) vehicle, but I'm pretty picky. Phone to HU to DSP via RCA vs. AMAS straight from phone, to my ears, I actually like the AMAS better. My $0.02 FWIW.


Thanks for showing me your setup Papasin!

Definitley AMS 2 looks good over there. I know the AMAS 2 is an external input, but do you know if the AMAS original would produce better results? I think I read in a technical article I posted earlier that the AMAS (original) splices the BT receivers input directly into the digital feed before going to DAC...

Regarding the comparison you made, it seems you are comparing Phone -> HU ->DSP via RCAs, which is an analog connection. Also, how is your phone connected to your HU - BT streaming? Or your HU is spinning a CD and pushing the analoge signal to the DSP. Nothing wrong with that, but connecting your phone to a HU with BT would not sound as good as connected to DSP directy (jsut assuming here how that is done). Also, I am interested in a digital system, and trying to move away from the analogue output of a HU preout to a DSP, even though I'm certain that would sound great (depending on the HU). I think Optical input sounds better into a DAC, than RCAs, just my 2cents...so perhaps a better comparison would be an optical wired connection vs the AMAS...


----------



## doukhobar

After reading that over, perhaps the AMAS vs optical comparison is not the right one. 

It seems Cobb you used Pure optical out from an iDevice. Then you compared that to the AMAS. Not sure that is the best implementation of optical since iOS messes with the signal. 

I think it would be more useful perhaps to test two different optical implementations vs each other. I think I will do this once I get my system complete. Maybe you can do it sooner?

It would be as follows:

1. iDevice -> iPure -> Optical output

2. PC USB output -> USB/Optical converter -> Optical output

and if you wanted to be really fancy,

3. Anroid USB -> USB2Go -> USB/Optical converter -> Optical output

I am myself leaning towards implementing option 3. 

To convert your USB to digital on an android without any loss, one could use USB Player Pro to get maximum resolution from the Android and then one of these from Behringer, for example, to go from full size USB to optical. 

Behringer: U-CONTROL UCA202

Then we would know what was the best optical implementation.


----------



## papasin

doukhobar said:


> Thanks for showing me your setup Papasin!
> 
> Definitley AMS 2 looks good over there. I know the AMAS 2 is an external input, but do you know if the AMAS original would produce better results? I think I read in a technical article I posted earlier that the AMAS (original) splices the BT receivers input directly into the digital feed before going to DAC...
> 
> Regarding the comparison you made, it seems you are comparing HU->DSP via RCAs, which is an analog connection. So your HU is spinning a CD and pushing the analoge signal to the DSP. Nothing wrong with that, but I am interested in a digital system, and trying to move away from the analogue output of a HU preout to a DSP. I think Optical input sounds better into a DAC, than RCAs, just my 2cents...so perhaps a better comparison would be an optical wired connection vs the AMAS...



If you are ever on the left coast, you should come take a listen to MrsPapasin's setup. She has multiple optical sources configured, all via a toslink switchbox (no analog signal in the mix).

1. Alpine optical CD changer direct via toslink to DSP
2a. iPad mini via Apple hdmi adapter to hdmi to toslink audio extractor then into DSP
2b. iPad mini via pure i20 then toslink to DSP
3. AMAS-2 toslink into DSP

Sonically, I think you would be hard pressed to distinguish and might be fun to do a blind test and see if you or others can tell the difference.


----------



## doukhobar

papasin said:


> If you are ever on the left coast, you should come take a listen to MrsPapasin's setup. She has multiple optical sources configured, all via a toslink switchbox (no analog signal in the mix).
> 
> 1. Alpine optical CD changer direct via toslink to DSP
> 2a. iPad mini via Apple hdmi adapter to hdmi to toslink audio extractor then into DSP
> 2b. iPad mini via pure i20 then toslink to DSP
> 3. AMAS-2 toslink into DSP
> 
> Sonically, I think you would be hard pressed to distinguish and might be fun to do a blind test and see if you or others can tell the difference.


Wow, this is great here. Thank you so much for sharing, and the offer!
Also, I do not get out west as much as I would like. Kinda home bound with a kid on the way...which makes me think I am crazy getting a Mosconi ;-)

Regardless, it seems the Truest test would be the Alpine optical output into the DSP vs AMAS-2. 

Over prolonged listening times, what sort of differences are revealed in the bass response and separation of the highs? I've always found that this is what bugs be the most about non-SQ systems, or ones playing mp3s from their high end components, which never made sense to me. 

The Alpine Optical out would seem like the trust source of CD quality here for our AMAS comparison, as there is no iDevice to possibly interfere. 

Have you met anyone who was running Toslink from Android?

While the wife has an iphone, Ive been running android from the beginning...


----------



## papasin

doukhobar said:


> Wow, this is great here. Thank you so much for sharing, and the offer!
> 
> Also, I do not get out west as much as I would like. Kinda home bound with a kid on the way...which makes me think I am crazy getting a Mosconi ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless, it seems the Truest test would be the Alpine optical output into the DSP vs AMAS-2.
> 
> 
> 
> Over prolonged listening times, what sort of differences are revealed in the bass response and separation of the highs? I've always found that this is what bugs be the most about non-SQ systems, or ones playing mp3s from their high end components, which never made sense to me.
> 
> 
> 
> The Alpine Optical out would seem like the trust source of CD quality here for our AMAS comparison, as there is no iDevice to possibly interfere.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you met anyone who was running Toslink from Android?
> 
> 
> 
> While the wife has an iphone, Ive been running android from the beginning...



I'll put it this way...multiple combinations of the methods I mentioned have been successfully competed in several SQ competitions without the SQ judge knowing which transport we used, with the engine off for critical listening. At all times, the signal quality was never a concern or pointed out as an issue by a judge. Our build logs are on here so you can check the full setup for yourself.


----------



## doukhobar

From Oct 2013 AUDIOreview:
http://mosconi-america.com/MosconiDSP-AMAS.pdf

What is the DSP_AMAS set made of?
Well, the heart of the device is a tiny PCB (about 2 x 3 cm), then a small panel which replaces that of the 6to8 outputs, plus an external antenna providing optimal signal reception and an extension allowing the antenna to be used away from the 6to8. For example, when it is placed under the bottom of the trunk or hidden within the car body. 

The BT module is plugged in a slot on the SP-DIF MULTI board, which is therefore essential for the DSP_AMAS. The main function of DSP_AMAS is to allow a Bluetooth connection between the 6to8 and an external device (smartphones, pads, tablets, ...) with the particularity that it can receive streaming audio at the maximum resolution allowed by the standard Bluetooth and “inject it”, digitally,
directly in the path of the 6to8 digital input signal, as if it were a "Bluetooth digital input".


----------



## Lycancatt

this thread is pretty amazing! however I dunno how to search just it so..

lets say I have a factory headunit that the 6to8 is doing input eq on to flatten the signal, and I also have an ipod or similar on inputs 5/6, and I have a phone streaming through the Bluetooth.

I don't necessarily want the input eq to flatten out/adjust for the flat signal coming out of the bt or ipod..is it possible to have different tunes for different inputs? mainly eq but you never know..


----------



## Justin Zazzi

Lycancatt said:


> I don't necessarily want the input eq to flatten out/adjust for the flat signal coming out of the bt or ipod..is it possible to have different tunes for different inputs? mainly eq but you never know..


I do not think so. However, if you get the controller or use the bluetooth controller you can easily switch between presets when you change your inputs.


----------



## Hammer1

Lycancatt said:


> this thread is pretty amazing! however I dunno how to search just it so..
> 
> lets say I have a factory headunit that the 6to8 is doing input eq on to flatten the signal, and I also have an ipod or similar on inputs 5/6, and I have a phone streaming through the Bluetooth.
> 
> I don't necessarily want the input eq to flatten out/adjust for the flat signal coming out of the bt or ipod..is it possible to have different tunes for different inputs? mainly eq but you never know..


Yes you can have up to 4 different tunes. So you could have a different tune for each input. You would need the controller to be able to switch tunes or you would have to connect your laptop to switch tunes.


----------



## Lycancatt

thanks, pretty sure the car I'm about to work on has the controller so shouldn't be an issue


----------



## cobb2819

How many inputs are you using from the factory head unit to the DSP?


----------



## Lycancatt

I think 4? honestly don't know because I haven't seen the vehicle yet.


----------



## cobb2819

well...if you want to build a tune for each device then you can add or remove the input EQing portion of the mixer...that is probably the easiest way to accomplish what you want to do.


----------



## helmetface00

I plan on powering my 6to8v8 via an add-a-fuse, this sme line will power four 12v computer fans.

I'll also splice my remote linec coming from the HU, to turn on three amps and the Mosconi unit.

Is there any issue with either of those solutions? 

Thanks!


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> I plan on powering my 6to8v8 via an add-a-fuse, this sme line will power four 12v computer fans.
> 
> I'll also splice my remote linec coming from the HU, to turn on three amps and the Mosconi unit.
> 
> Is there any issue with either of those solutions?
> 
> Thanks!


Everything depends on the supply of the source feed.


----------



## Hammer1

Question on the Sp-Dif card. It has two optical inputs, Is there a way to have a preset for each input or do you just set it up to auto detect the two inputs. I have one running to a Pure I20 and the second input running to Amas-2. So if I want to switch from Ipad that is on one optical input and on preset 1 then want to switch to preset 2 with the phone and not stop music playing on the Ipad can that be setup or do I have to stop music playing on Ipad for it to detect phone


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> Question on the Sp-Dif card. It has two optical inputs, Is there a way to have a preset for each input or do you just set it up to auto detect the two inputs. I have one running to a Pure I20 and the second input running to Amas-2. So if I want to switch from Ipad that is on one optical input and on preset 1 then want to switch to preset 2 with the phone and not stop music playing on the Ipad can that be setup or do I have to stop music playing on Ipad for it to detect phone


The optical card functions as 1 input, so you physically have to stop playback on one device for the card to enter search mode to see the other device playing.


----------



## Hammer1

I kinda figured it was that way


----------



## amrita

*AMAS 2*

i'm sorry to burst anyone's bubble(including my own) about the Amas 2 unit

i did a bluetooth snoop log to figure out witch codec's was available/used and bitrate for the bt transfer

from log:
tablet (galaxy s 10,5 aptx able)sends query - GetCapabilities
amas2 answers:
Capabilities:
Media Codec Audio Type: SBC (0x00)
1... .... = Sampling Frequency 16000 Hz: True
.1.. .... = Sampling Frequency 32000 Hz: True
..1. .... = Sampling Frequency 44100 Hz: True
...1 .... = Sampling Frequency 48000 Hz: True
.... 1... = Channel Mode Mono: True
.... .1.. = Channel Mode Dual Channel: True
.... ..1. = Channel Mode Stereo: True
.... ...1 = Channel Mode Joint Stereo: True
1... .... = Block Length 4: True
.1.. .... = Block Length 8: True
..1. .... = Block Length 12: True
...1 .... = Block Length 16: True
.... 1... = Subbands 4: True
.... .1.. = Subbands 8: True
.... ..1. = Allocation Method SNR: True
.... ...1 = Allocation Method Loudness: True
Minumum Bitpool: 2
Maximum Bitpool: 53

so no Apt-X, Wave, Flac, Mp3, Lossless codec's supported as promised by the many sites offering this device 
only a2dp's SBC witch tops out at 345kbps
(edit)
i now know that on the mosconi site they only states high resolution and nothing about codecs as vendor's do.
but personally i dont see 345kbps as being high resolution either, do you?




the tablet did the connection: 
SBC
44.1khz (i guess because i was playing a 44.1khz flac file in poweramp)
joint stereo
block 16
subbands 8
Loudness
bitpool 53

witch comes to 328kbps 
lossless yea lol

that said i must admit the sound is quite impressive for the bitrate both in volume and "quality" i guess that's contributed to the toslink and that there's only one dac in the sound chain namely that of the mosconi 4to6 spdif dsp.

still i am quite disappointed as it was pretty expensive getting this far and don't have what i set out to get namely lossless off up to 2,1mbit that the "real" Amas is able to do 

waiting on a pcm2704 usb dac in the mail before making any decisions about the dsp (soundstage vs soundquality)


----------



## amrita

i do have some questions about the dsp if someone could be so kind 

1
using my cowon s9 with phonocable directly to the dsp i don't get enough volume.
never had this problem when it was connected directly to amp's
i did try splitting the signal to ch1&2 and 3&4 this did help with volume but something appeared off with the sound couldn't quite set my finger to it.
question how do i get more volume? preferably without buying a expensive preamp

(why bother with this when i use bluetooth/(usb dac), is that my cowon does not support this and is my back up when i have forgotten to bring my phone or tablet to the car)

2
first thing i noticed after doing the initial adjustments such as level adjustments and crossover's matching the old passives 
using my cowon was that the sound quality went straight to hell it was absolutely horrible no depth or richness to the sound, was like comparing my old system to a freaking tv set. (must admit i got scared there for a moment) but after using rew and arta for equalizing and time alignment i did get a sick soundstage and good'ish soundquality(using a uncalibrated radishack 3300099 spl meter)
did anyone else have the same experience?

3
is there a way to get the old rich Sparkling sound back?
would a calibrated mic do the job? or is this a downside of using a dsp

4
i have the remote with display, and now that its cold out it's began behaving badly, not being willing to adjust the volume or adjusting down when i'm in fact trying to turn it up, other than waiting for the car to get warm is there any other solutions to this? or are mine defect? do the other remotes behave the same way?

5
is there a way to get it to default to another volume level when starting up? right now i think it's in the 25 range? it's pretty damn loud when using bluetooth, witch auto connects and in combination with my weird volume control can be quite unpleasant and gives me a dumb(or deaf) starting point volume vise

i might have open my own tread with all these questions but figured this is where the knowledge lies


----------



## Lycancatt

I've been reading this thread a bit and I've got a question.

I was playing with a 628v8 and had a funny issue where I would get the subwoofer outputs to turn off on very heavy sustained bass notes..but only the sub outs. I read about the original 628 not letting itself be clipped and muting the outputs..but is this still a thing with the new v8 model? its limiting the subwoofer impact for me and I want more bass, and have the amp and sub to do it easily.


----------



## cobb2819

Lycancatt said:


> I've been reading this thread a bit and I've got a question.
> 
> I was playing with a 628v8 and had a funny issue where I would get the subwoofer outputs to turn off on very heavy sustained bass notes..but only the sub outs. I read about the original 628 not letting itself be clipped and muting the outputs..but is this still a thing with the new v8 model? its limiting the subwoofer impact for me and I want more bass, and have the amp and sub to do it easily.


Something tells me the issues isn't residing in the processor. If the processor's inputs are over driven and not setup properly, it can trigger the automute which shuts down ALL channels, not just a pair of channels.


----------



## .69077

Just got my 6to8 installed, along with my Gladen PRO 3 ways and 2 of the new Mosconi One 130.4s. Wow, I've been missing out. Love the AMAS too.


----------



## justdofit

Hi all, just a quick question for those more experienced with the digital inputs on the 6to8v8 than I.

I am currently having an issue where the 6to8 is muting when using digital input (I have an AMAS and Alpine DHA-S690 with Toslink) - the weird part is, it's only doing it when playing a left/right verification track (I've tried a few including the IASCA disc one). On the flip side, the analogue inputs are completely unaffected and play the same tracks flawlessly.

This has only recently started happening, without any settings being changed on the unit. For digital playback I use a dedicated preset with the digital mixed in at 50% on all channels on the main tab and no other inputs mixed in or input triggers configured.

It's been set up like this for 6 months without issue, and I only just noticed the problem when running through our judging disc for the upcoming SQ comp season.

The only other thing that comes to mind is that before installing the spidif multi and amas, the unit had no audible noise floor - but after upgrading the unit with digital inputs there has been a (very) slight audible hiss that's always present, this is something that only I have noticed - and hasn't effected comp results, so it never really bothered me.

I'll upload some screengrabs in a second of the input / output settings to see if anyone can spot any major oversights on my behalf.

Any help or advise on setting the digital inputs up in an ideal manner would be greatly appreciated as I'm starting to have flashbacks of my horror PS8 experience 

EDIT: Oh and I should mention I have tried the reset remote control level button a few times (this helped in the past when the factory deck was clipping/muting the unit - I've since just set the analogue input gain pots to 0 though, and it's only the digital inputs right channel thats muting the unit at the moment.).


----------



## justdofit

Mixer settings:









Gain settings:








(also note, the physical gain pots on the unit are all set dead flat for analogue inputs, not that it effects digital inputs to my knowledge).

If it helps, just some additional info about the rest of the system
DSP: Mosconi 6to8v8 with SPIDIF multi, AMAS and DRC mini.
Amplifiers: Mosconi AS100.4 tweeters and midrange, Mosconi AS100.4 midbass (bridged), Alpine M12 Sub.
Speakers: DLS Scandinavia 30 tweeters, DLS Scandinavia 3C midrange, DLS Scandinavia 6 midbass, Image Dynamics IDMAX D2v3.0.
Interconnects: All monster 400 series.
Power wiring and support: All stinger HPM.
Sources: Factory cruze infotainment unit, iPhone 6S via AMAS, Alpine DHA-S690 via Optical 1.

Thanks again to anyone who can assist with my config - as I'm starting to go a little crazy, and am holding off on some system install changes until I get this issue sorts :/


----------



## justdofit

I just thought I'd update the thread with the solution I found for my issue (confusion), just in-case anyone else trips up where I did.

Simply changing the mixer setting for my dedicated optical preset so that the optical was mixed in and triggered from the "aux-optical" tab instead of just mixed in on the "main" tab solved the issue. L/R test tracks play without any muting over all my digital inputs (even my macbook pro in via opt 2).


----------



## 350al

With a Microsoft Surface Pro as a source, which would be the better option to get the audio to the 6to8?

- Usb to optical converter, then optical in

- Streaming over bluetooth


----------



## justdofit

350al said:


> With a Microsoft Surface Pro as a source, which would be the better option to get the audio to the 6to8?
> 
> - Usb to optical converter, then optical in
> 
> - Streaming over bluetooth


TBH, I think you'd be hard pressed to distinguish the difference between the two. Especially once you're actually driving/moving.

I run both an AMAS w/ iPhone and optical in from a DVD stacker and they both sound the same.

The defining factor in your install may come down to items beside sound quality, e.g. simplicity of install and/or cost, practicality etc...


----------



## 350al

justdofit said:


> TBH, I think you'd be hard pressed to distinguish the difference between the two. Especially once you're actually driving/moving.
> 
> I run both an AMAS w/ iPhone and optical in from a DVD stacker and they both sound the same.
> 
> The defining factor in your install may come down to items beside sound quality, e.g. simplicity of install and/or cost, practicality etc...


Thanks! I'll probably go the bluetooth route then.


----------



## brother_c

Just curious before I jump on in with one of these processors, is there something newer latest greatest around the corner from Mosconi? My last processor choice was a really bad one, I still have a $3.95 on-off-on toggle switch from the auto parts store controller that is the only option to this day. Don't want to have something come out in a few months that would be much better, I can get by for a while if there is reason to wait. Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

The 6to8v8 is going to be a solid choice.


----------



## jaxton

Hi All, first time posting but have been browsing this site for a while. I have a mosconi 4to6 dsp. My problem is I cant get the mosconi dsp remote to work. The lights turns on in the remote display, all functions also seem to work in the remote but it has no effect in the actual volume. Hope you guys can help me


----------



## cobb2819

jaxton said:


> Hi All, first time posting but have been browsing this site for a while. I have a mosconi 4to6 dsp. My problem is I cant get the mosconi dsp remote to work. The lights turns on in the remote display, all functions also seem to work in the remote but it has no effect in the actual volume. Hope you guys can help me


Is it the RCD or the RC-Mini?


----------



## jaxton

its an RCD, the big remote


----------



## broo0d

I installed 6to8v8 last week with spif-multi, mos-btm, amas bluetooth module and mini remote.

output of channel 7 is clipped when playing 0db test tone over bluetooth, no crossover set. did not test other channels yet.

what is the correct way of doing it? reduce percentage at optical mixer tab or what?

output voltage is in millivolts, tried to reset remote level multiple times. one time voltage jumped to 1.9v then drop again to millivolts.


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> I installed 6to8v8 last week with spif-multi, mos-btm, amas bluetooth module and mini remote.
> 
> output of channel 7 is clipped when playing 0db test tone over bluetooth, no crossover set. did not test other channels yet.
> 
> what is the correct way of doing it? reduce percentage at optical mixer tab or what?
> 
> output voltage is in millivolts, tried to reset remote level multiple times. one time voltage jumped to 1.9v then drop again to millivolts.


is the sub level on the controller turned up? Try unplugging the RC-Mini and repost your voltages after resetting the remote control level.


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> is the sub level on the controller turned up? Try unplugging the RC-Mini and repost your voltages after resetting the remote control level.


Yes master volume and sub volume is turned all the way up.

with controller disconnected and 70% output at aux optical tab i get 1.9v for a brief moment before going down to millivolts

Tried again with controller connected, 100% output at aux optical tab and volume all the way up on the controller i get 3.3v for a brief moment like before.


i get 0.64v output and stays there with -15db test tone and 100% aux optical output
0.98v and stays there for a -10db test tone
millivolts for -5db and have severe clipping
millivots for 0db and have a square wave

All these test tones have been played over bluetooth


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> Yes master volume and sub volume is turned all the way up.
> 
> with controller disconnected and 70% output at aux optical tab i get 1.9v for a brief moment before going down to millivolts
> 
> Tried again with controller connected, 100% output at aux optical tab and volume all the way up on the controller i get 3.3v for a brief moment like before.
> 
> 
> i get 0.64v output and stays there with -15db test tone and 100% aux optical output
> 0.98v and stays there for a -10db test tone
> millivolts for -5db and have severe clipping
> millivots for 0db and have a square wave
> 
> All these test tones have been played over bluetooth


Are you getting any output to the actual amplifiers? Play some pink noise and connect and amp...lets say sub amp...so that you can hear if you are actually getting audio pass through. 

On the Aux Optical tab, I assume the Enable Signal Trigger is selected, but is Trigger Vol on 1&2 checked or unchecked?


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> Are you getting any output to the actual amplifiers? Play some pink noise and connect and amp...lets say sub amp...so that you can hear if you are actually getting audio pass through.
> 
> On the Aux Optical tab, I assume the Enable Signal Trigger is selected, but is Trigger Vol on 1&2 checked or unchecked?


Yes i played pink noise and can hear it.

enable signal trigger is selected, trigger vol on 1&2 is also selected and tried with it being unselected it made no difference.

trigger vol on 1&2 is changing volume when playing over optical only not bluetooth.


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> Yes i played pink noise and can hear it.
> 
> enable signal trigger is selected, trigger vol on 1&2 is also selected and tried with it being unselected it made no difference.
> 
> trigger vol on 1&2 is changing volume when playing over optical only not bluetooth.


Trigger Vol on 1&2 effects everything attached to the SP-Dif Multi board, and this includes the AMAS. Make sure this option is NOT selected.


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> Trigger Vol on 1&2 effects everything attached to the SP-Dif Multi board, and this includes the AMAS. Make sure this option is NOT selected.


Tested again with the setting "trigger vol on 1&2" is not selected. Same problem

Used a different bluetooth source and checked test tones to make sure they are not clipped.

still getting clipped output.


----------



## cobb2819

Next time you pair the software, select copy data to dsp and override all info on the DSP. setup the aux optical again, and see what you get.


----------



## cobb2819

Also make sure that that bluetooth source volume is turned all the way up.


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> Next time you pair the software, select copy data to dsp and override all info on the DSP. setup the aux optical again, and see what you get.


Finally got it to work.

Override DSP data fixes the problem, Thank you very much for your help.


----------



## broo0d

after setting gains i turn everything off, comes back later to gave it a listen.

channels 3 & 4 goes down to millivolts after having a nice steady voltage

I reset everything and lost settings, the voltage does not coming back.

All i remember is i had an error when pairing it says not completed, all pairings done after that have the same error until i override dsp settings.


----------



## cobb2819

If you have an issue saying pairing not complete, then it is likely you have a firmware conflict or issue, and it likely needs to be reflashed. Where did you buy the DSP from, and were are you located?


----------



## broo0d

I've bought the dsp from an authorized dealer in Germany, I am from Saudi Arabia. We don't have a mosconi in our country.


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> I've bought the dsp from an authorized dealer in Germany, I am from Saudi Arabia. We don't have a mosconi in our country.


You'll most likely need to send the DSP back to the dealer for a firmware reset.


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> You'll most likely need to send the DSP back to the dealer for a firmware reset.


For something like that i would rather do it myself.

I think the error message has nothing to do with gains problem.

Popping up error message "not completed" is a bug in the software, try to play with subwoofer volume while pairing and see what do you get.
If nothing happen try change both master and sub volume.



Played with input gain today, i still don't get how it does work. 
There is a gain pot that i can control but the unit started attenuated and dont know how to make it output more voltage.
I've set gain at minimum with the source playing maximum unclipped volume. 
to get higher voltages outside the millivolts i did random things like change track or play threw bluetooth and stop or set gain up and down. i think i am doing it wrong.


----------



## cobb2819

broo0d said:


> Popping up error message "not completed" is a bug in the software, try to play with subwoofer volume while pairing and see what do you get.


So...if there is a firmware corruption, that keeps the DSP from fully communicating with the software, then that can absolutely effect gains, because the control of the gain is in the firmware. Corrupt Firmware = gremlins, and you are experiencing gremlins. 

Are you tuning over USB with the AMAS installed??


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> So...if there is a firmware corruption, that keeps the DSP from fully communicating with the software, then that can absolutely effect gains, because the control of the gain is in the firmware. Corrupt Firmware = gremlins, and you are experiencing gremlins.
> 
> Are you tuning over USB with the AMAS installed??


no, tuning is done over mos-btm with amas installed


----------



## broo0d

You are right.I think corruption is done when miscommunication happens when uploading to dsp, if miscommunication happens when downloading to pc it is no problem just close the app and try again.


----------



## broo0d

I've setup everything back again.

All channels are have a good voltages.

The bad news is hertz ml28 tweeters are destroyed. they do work well before.

Dsp is fine and amp is fine too. Tweeters have very low volume, checked impedance with a multimeter it says O.L. 

I have taken precautions setting up dsp. I Set crossover at the amp temporarily in case of dsp failure and tested everything. the only thing i remember is changing preset or connecting to a computer or something similar the dsp play on all channel for a moment even muted ones. I think this what happened.


----------



## rcurley55

I need some help with a few issues with my 6to8 v8 and am hoping you guys can help.

The system is run off of my factory iDrive (2010 535i with the HiFi setup). Signal is from the iDrive unit with a Technic harness. Harness takes the OE outputs and puts RCA cables on it, also puts a relay on the amp remote. That goes straight to the 6to8 which then passes on to two JL XD amplifiers.

Here are the issues:
1. I have turn off pop. The amp remote is connected to my amplifiers and to the 6to8 with the switch in the BLT mode. Is this the proper configuration? I never had an issue with my MS-8 or if I directly connected to amplifiers using the harness, so I am assuming that it is something with the 6to8.

2. I can't seem to setup the input gain correctly. I played some pink noise with all outputs disconnected with the volume pegged. Started with the input gains at the bottom and slowly started to increase the gain - no lights at all on the input status led. It doesn't matter if the input is set to high or low. Here is a little more info on the headhunt output:

The head unit sends analog front and rear analog signals to the Hi-Fi amplifier. These signals are balanced-differential, and have a 5V maximum. 

It doesn't seem right that I can go fully wide open on the input gain without clipping, but I can. Any suggestions here?

Any help with these issues (mainly the turn off pop) would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> It doesn't seem right that I can go fully wide open on the input gain without clipping, but I can. Any suggestions here?


Sure it does because in low level the DSP will take up to 8v input. With zero attenuation it'll take up to 4v, so my guess is that with pink noise, you are not reaching the 4v threshold. Don't base your findings on the LED, put a meter on the output and watch for signal to drop out. if it drops out, pull the input attenuation back a bit until it doesn't do it anymore.

As for the pop. The DSP should be staying on longer than the amps so it wouldn't be noise generated by the DSP. You can adjust the delay on the DSP turn off, but i'll have to check to remember how do it it. Also...just to make sure, your DSP while it is set to BTL is actually setup on low level for the inputs correct?


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> Sure it does because in low level the DSP will take up to 8v input. With zero attenuation it'll take up to 4v, so my guess is that with pink noise, you are not reaching the 4v threshold. Don't base your findings on the LED, put a meter on the output and watch for signal to drop out. if it drops out, pull the input attenuation back a bit until it doesn't do it anymore.


So, pull the RCA wires from the outputs, then put a dmm across the output and look for voltage drop?



> As for the pop. The DSP should be staying on longer than the amps so it wouldn't be noise generated by the DSP. You can adjust the delay on the DSP turn off, but i'll have to check to remember how do it it. Also...just to make sure, your DSP while it is set to BTL is actually setup on low level for the inputs correct?


That would be great if you could look into it. Yes, I have it on BLT with low level. I'm not sure if that's the correct config for me given that the headunit outputs 5V.


----------



## cobb2819

rcurley55 said:


> So, pull the RCA wires from the outputs, then put a dmm across the output and look for voltage drop?


or just listen for it to stop playing audio. if it never mutes, then you don't have a problem.



rcurley55 said:


> That would be great if you could look into it. Yes, I have it on BLT with low level. I'm not sure if that's the correct config for me given that the headunit outputs 5V.


It is the proper config. The only other thing to try would be disconnecting the RCA into the DSP and turn the system on and then off. Do it still pop with the factory head disconnected from the DSP?


----------



## rcurley55

cobb2819 said:


> or just listen for it to stop playing audio. if it never mutes, then you don't have a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> It is the proper config. The only other thing to try would be disconnecting the RCA into the DSP and turn the system on and then off. Do it still pop with the factory head disconnected from the DSP?


I'll try this and report back - thanks!


----------



## THEDUKE

So is software version 1.1.134.0 the newest one that should be used.


----------



## cobb2819

THEDUKE said:


> So is software version 1.1.134.0 the newest one that should be used.


Yup.


----------



## THEDUKE

So I have another odd question. What happens with the output level of the unit when a RCMini is not plugged in. Does it default to its max level or lowest level. What about sub level also? Is there a way to use RCMini as a sub Level only? I have RCmini, but I will control main volume from deck 100% of the time and want to have ability to control sub without having to push in knob first to get to sub volume. Just curious, because I had
3Sixty.3 and it gave me option of choosing what the knobs would do.


----------



## cobb2819

THEDUKE said:


> So I have another odd question. What happens with the output level of the unit when a RCMini is not plugged in. Does it default to its max level or lowest level. What about sub level also? Is there a way to use RCMini as a sub Level only? I have RCmini, but I will control main volume from deck 100% of the time and want to have ability to control sub without having to push in knob first to get to sub volume. Just curious, because I had
> 3Sixty.3 and it gave me option of choosing what the knobs would do.


The output of the DSP when properly setup without an RCD or RCMini is unattenuated. The encoder on the control functions as attenuation. The higher the number, the less attenuation. There is no way to get the RCMini to default to sub position.


----------



## brother_c

Just a month after I got my processor check this out. Newest, latest, and greatest already here. Looks like the DSP8to12 is on the way.

https://issuu.com/mosconi-system/docs/2016.05_mosconi_brochure_eng_web


----------



## quality_sound

I was wondering when they'd put out lit with the new One amps. Is there a real need for 12 channels without a true center channel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hammer1

quality_sound said:


> I was wondering when they'd put out lit with the new One amps. Is there a real need for 12 channels without a true center channel?
> 
> 
> For people that want to run rear fill you would use all 12 channels. If you were running a 3 way front and 2 way rear plus sub there is 12 channels. Now I don't really see the need for 8 input channels


----------



## subwoofery

Hammer1 said:


> For people that want to run rear fill you would use all 12 channels. If you were running a 3 way front and 2 way rear plus sub there is 12 channels. Now I don't really see the need for 8 input channels


Why does anyone need to go active in the rear... Never understood that. 

Kelvin


----------



## brother_c

DID a bit of geeking out over the weekend. I was able to get my phone to be a digital source (coaxial input) using an I2SoverUSB board. Works great with my Moto X, it is an asynchronous USB to SPDIF converter and it is powered by a portable USB charger. Clean sound, haven't gotten to into the sample and bit rates settings glad to be free of the headphone jack. Works with all the audio apps I've tried, Pandora, Tidal, USB Audio Player, Poweramp. Easy setup with the 6to8 once I got the SPDIF out working.

*I2SoverUSB - I2S over USB Audio*


----------



## crackinhedz

Can't seem to get the 'frequency response chart' in the software to reflect any changes...is there a trick to it? Im sure im just overlooking something.


----------



## CompCoder

Had the same problem today crackinhedz but I only played with it for about half an hour. 

I do need some basic assistance, anyone have a link for a good base like setting up filters, crossovers, etc? I'm a bit lost with the number of settings having only used a 3sixty.1 and a Cleansweep in precious installs. I have a front component set with a passive crossover, rear coaxial, and a couple 10" subs in a slim box behind the rear seat in a 2016 tundra. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Offroader5

Here's something interesting. Wondering if there's something wrong with my 6to8.

While tuning this weekend I wanted to use a saved preset and load to another preset, then start tweeking that one from there. Essentially using a preset as a starting point on another so I didn't have to start from scratch.

After copying preset to another, I noticed that the sound was different. So, to verify this, before I made any changes, I resaved the current preset (now two presets should be exactly the same). Then I disconnected the 6to8 and switched back and forth between the presets on the controller. They sounded different from each other 

What could be happening here? Shouldn't all the settings of the preset saved and loaded to another be then an exact copy of each other?


----------



## cobb2819

You might want to reset the DSP and then reset the remote control level and then load the single file into both slots and go from there. Reset remote control level with NO audio playing and then if you have an RCD or RC-Mini installed, cycle the vol up and down, and same with sub control, then play audio through the system.


----------



## Offroader5

cobb2819 said:


> You might want to reset the DSP and then reset the remote control level and then load the single file into both slots and go from there. Reset remote control level with NO audio playing and then if you have an RCD or RC-Mini installed, cycle the vol up and down, and same with sub control, then play audio through the system.


When you say "remote control" you're talking about the RCD correct? I'm guessing theres a factory reset for the DSP? Is this on the unit, or does this happen through the software? Also, is the reset on the RCD done by just unplugging it from the DSP?


----------



## tonny

I did notice the same, preset 1 sounds better then 2 and that one is better then 3 and so on.... tried it more then once but there is a small difference between then.


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## cobb2819

Offroader5 said:


> When you say "remote control" you're talking about the RCD correct? I'm guessing theres a factory reset for the DSP? Is this on the unit, or does this happen through the software? Also, is the reset on the RCD done by just unplugging it from the DSP?


With NO audio playing through the system, pair the software to the DSP, click Copy Data to the Dsp. After that's done click into a preset and click reset remote control level along the bottom row of buttons. When that is done, turn the vol up and down on the controller, then click into the sub level and do the same. Load the preset into the software slots and see where that gets you.


----------



## crackinhedz

Cobb, any ideas on getting the frequency response chart to reflect changes? Should I reinstall the software? Ive always seemed to have this issue, just never looked into a solution.


----------



## cobb2819

crackinhedz said:


> Cobb, any ideas on getting the frequency response chart to reflect changes? Should I reinstall the software? Ive always seemed to have this issue, just never looked into a solution.


It's hit or miss, some computers it work, others it doesn't. I don't rely on it or recommend trying to use it, because it's not showing you want you're doing acoustically.


----------



## crackinhedz

> I don't rely on it or recommend trying to use it, because it's not showing you want you're doing acoustically.


I was hoping to use it to get an idea how the various crossovers were affecting the slope of the subwoofer. Otherwise I dont use it.


----------



## broo0d

cobb2819 said:


> With NO audio playing through the system, pair the software to the DSP, click Copy Data to the Dsp. After that's done click into a preset and click reset remote control level along the bottom row of buttons. When that is done, turn the vol up and down on the controller, then click into the sub level and do the same. Load the preset into the software slots and see where that gets you.


I made a mistake of not doing that and destroyed my hertz ml28 tweeters.

I installed a new tweeters, Hertz ml280 and its playing fine since then.


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

Ok I have an issue with my 6to8v8. First of all when I previously had the first ver. 6to8 it sounded great! But when I got the v8 not only does it not sound as good I have all kinds of problems with the inputs muting themselves.
I've tried this with 2 different head units. A Kenwood DNN990HD and currently with a Pioneer 8000NEX. Same deal with both units. I swear I have the input gain at less than a quarter of the way up and it still mutes itself once in awhile.
Any suggestions on what I could try to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cobb2819

IbizaOnAcid said:


> Ok I have an issue with my 6to8v8. First of all when I previously had the first ver. 6to8 it sounded great! But when I got the v8 not only does it not sound as good I have all kinds of problems with the inputs muting themselves.
> I've tried this with 2 different head units. A Kenwood DNN990HD and currently with a Pioneer 8000NEX. Same deal with both units. I swear I have the input gain at less than a quarter of the way up and it still mutes itself once in awhile.
> Any suggestions on what I could try to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.


Did you install the original file from the old 6to8 into your v8?


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Did you install the original file from the old 6to8 into your v8?


Yes I did.


----------



## cobb2819

IbizaOnAcid said:


> Yes I did.


Problem number 1. These are two different devices, and the tuning files are different. Please reset your DSP to default as mentioned previously and rebuild the tune by hand, without installing the old file. Lets start there and see if some of your "issues" go away.


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Problem number 1. These are two different devices, and the tuning files are different. Please reset your DSP to default as mentioned previously and rebuild the tune by hand, without installing the old file. Lets start there and see if some of your "issues" go away.


Ok, I will do that and report back.
Thank you for your help so far....


----------



## Hammer1

I have a question for Cobb. One day all is fine and the next day the volume is much lower than normal. On my RCD what was 15 is now 35 as far as volume goes. Should I do a reset and reload my tune or is there another problem.


----------



## Hammer1

So I did a reset and that fixed the volume problem. Now does anyone have any answer as to why the Rcd will just start lowering the volume by itself. It has done this about 4 time in a couple week period


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> So I did a reset and that fixed the volume problem. Now does anyone have any answer as to why the Rcd will just start lowering the volume by itself. It has done this about 4 time in a couple week period


I'm willing you bet that you have boosted EQ bands in your tune. If this is the case, the DSP is lowering the overall output as to not "clip" the boosted bands during playback. It will most likely continue to do this randomly when it finds the one song that is triggering the protection.


----------



## Hammer1

I have two bands that are boosted by .5 so I doubt that is it. You can be driving and volume is at 15 and it just starts going down one number at a time till it hits 5 then it stops


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> I have two bands that are boosted by .5 so I doubt that is it. You can be driving and volume is at 15 and it just starts going down one number at a time till it hits 5 then it stops


The actual RCD is physically turning down?


----------



## Hammer1

cobb2819 said:


> The actual RCD is physically turning down?


Yep. the RCD will start going down on its own


----------



## btran45

does anybody know if there is a Mac download for the Mosconi DSP 6to8?


----------



## cobb2819

btran45 said:


> does anybody know if there is a Mac download for the Mosconi DSP 6to8?


There is not.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

I am trying to troubleshoot an intermittent problem and wondering if anyone has experienced something similar. I have an Eclipse CD7200mkII head unit feeding a 6to8 (not v8) feeding an Alpine PDX-5 amplifier. This is a relatively new problem (maybe a few months old) but I have not made any changes to the firmware of the 6to8 or changed any of my installation physically. I change the tune periodically.

On some songs, after I turn up the volume to a certain level, the center image shifts significantly (about 30 degrees) to the right. If I restart playing the song at a lower volume level, the center image is steady where it should be. The change is immediate and obvious. This is not the muting function of the 6to8, for my system that happens at *much* higher volumes.

I'm not certain the 6to8 is to blame, but I'm reaching out just in case anyone else has experienced something similar. Thanks for reading.


----------



## jtaudioacc

Jazzi said:


> I am trying to troubleshoot an intermittent problem and wondering if anyone has experienced something similar. I have an Eclipse CD7200mkII head unit feeding a 6to8 (not v8) feeding an Alpine PDX-5 amplifier. This is a relatively new problem (maybe a few months old) but I have not made any changes to the firmware of the 6to8 or changed any of my installation physically. I change the tune periodically.
> 
> On some songs, after I turn up the volume to a certain level, the center image shifts significantly (about 30 degrees) to the right. If I restart playing the song at a lower volume level, the center image is steady where it should be. The change is immediate and obvious. This is not the muting function of the 6to8, for my system that happens at *much* higher volumes.
> 
> I'm not certain the 6to8 is to blame, but I'm reaching out just in case anyone else has experienced something similar. Thanks for reading.


swap the pdx5 for a gan fet amp and your problem will go away.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

jtaudioacc said:


> swap the pdx5 for a gan fet amp and your problem will go away.


Yeah it's probably related to my gain knobs somehow. I hear they are going out of style.


----------



## THEDUKE

So I have had the 6to8V8 installed for a few weeks after having the RF 360.3 for a while. I still cannot get it to give me the output I had with the 360.3. After reading this entire post I think I finally have all the quirks figured out to start getting this thing to sound great. 
I have figured out the RESET volume control and that has fixed the issue with losing volume when I plug RCmini in. I decided I am not going to use RCmini. I am just going to reset volume control when I am done with tuning process.
It appears that when the V8 has its level at 0db it basically is the same output as the regular 6to8, which is why I have had to increase gain control on amps just to get decent output but still not the same as the 360.3. The only way to take advantage of the V8 version higher output is to use the line driver which means I have to increase levels on the DSP. That leads me to my next question, in order to get the 8 volts out of the 6to8V8 does the level on the DSP need to be at +6. Is there any harm in running the DSP at +6?I want to reset my gains on the amplifiers as close as I had them when I was using the 360.3 since my noise floor was fantastic. Just an FYI I had to turn up Gain on amps more than double just to get close to the same output, but still not the same. Just an FYI, because I know it will be asked I have adjusted the inputs correctly on the DSP.


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

IbizaOnAcid said:


> Ok I have an issue with my 6to8v8. First of all when I previously had the first ver. 6to8 it sounded great! But when I got the v8 not only does it not sound as good I have all kinds of problems with the inputs muting themselves.
> I've tried this with 2 different head units. A Kenwood DNN990HD and currently with a Pioneer 8000NEX. Same deal with both units. I swear I have the input gain at less than a quarter of the way up and it still mutes itself once in awhile.
> Any suggestions on what I could try to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.


cobb2819:
Did you install the original file from the old 6to8 into your v8? 
IbizaOnAcid:
Yes I did. 
cobb2819:
Problem number 1. These are two different devices, and the tuning files are different. Please reset your DSP to default as mentioned previously and rebuild the tune by hand, without installing the old file. Lets start there and see if some of your "issues" go away. 
IbizaOnAcid:
Ok, I will do that and report back.
Thank you for your help so far....

Ok man I've done what you suggested and it definitely sounds much better. Unfortunately I am still having the muting problem!
Any suggestions? Again thank you for your help.
Craig


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

IbizaOnAcid said:


> cobb2819:
> Did you install the original file from the old 6to8 into your v8?
> IbizaOnAcid:
> Yes I did.
> cobb2819:
> Problem number 1. These are two different devices, and the tuning files are different. Please reset your DSP to default as mentioned previously and rebuild the tune by hand, without installing the old file. Lets start there and see if some of your "issues" go away.
> IbizaOnAcid:
> Ok, I will do that and report back.
> Thank you for your help so far....
> 
> Ok man I've done what you suggested and it definitely sounds much better. Unfortunately I am still having the muting problem!
> Any suggestions? Again thank you for your help.
> Craig


Nothin? No suggestions as to what would be causing my DSP to be so sensitive to muting itself? cobb2819?
Please, it is driving me flipping crazy!!!


----------



## cobb2819

Turn the input attenuation on the side all the way to -12dB on all inputs and see if it still does it.


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Turn the input attenuation on the side all the way to -12dB on all inputs and see if it still does it.



OK if I turn the input gain all the way down it doesn't self mute. Is that seriously a solution though?


----------



## Hammer1

I would now slowly bring the input up until it starts to self mute then lower it a little and you should be good


----------



## cobb2819

IbizaOnAcid said:


> OK if I turn the input gain all the way down it doesn't self mute. Is that seriously a solution though?


Yes, that is THE solution if your device is trying to overdrive the input.


----------



## bboyvek

Does the mosconi 6to8v8 accepts balanced differential outputs? I bought one with the idea that it would work since I have seen a few E92 using the 6to8 successfully. However, I don't think I have seen one using the 6to8v8. The problem I have is that even when I set the gain all the way down, the mosconi self mutes on some songs. What should I do?


----------



## cobb2819

bboyvek said:


> Does the mosconi 6to8v8 accepts balanced differential outputs? I bought one with the idea that it would work since I have seen a few E92 using the 6to8 successfully. However, I don't think I have seen one using the 6to8v8. The problem I have is that even when I set the gain all the way down, the mosconi self mutes on some songs. What should I do?


Turn it to High Level and turn the attenuation back to 0db, see where that gets you.


----------



## cobb2819

cobb2819 said:


> Turn it to High Level and turn the attenuation back to 0db, see where that gets you.


Are you using the factory amplifier, or did your E92 have HiFi and you are tagging signal before the amp?


----------



## Extended Power

This is weird...
Why is it that when I fade to left, or right on the tweeters, I can still hear sound out of the opposite channel? 
This is happening on the older 4 volt Mosconi.
It only has inputs into channels 1, 2, 3, and 4.
Channels 1, and 2 are used for the front tweeters. (Which has the signal coming from a "Y"d signal from the front RCAs.)
Channels 3, and 4 are used for the rear fill speakers. (Which is straight from the rear RCAs)

Why doesn't the sound completely shut off?
Why does the Mosconi have the channel outputs grouped together? (1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8)
Why are the inputs grouped together? (1&2, 3&4, 5&6)


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> This is weird...
> Why is it that when I fade to left, or right on the tweeters, I can still hear sound out of the opposite channel?
> This is happening on the older 4 volt Mosconi.
> It only has inputs into channels 1, 2, 3, and 4.
> Channels 1, and 2 are used for the front tweeters. (Which has the signal coming from a "Y"d signal from the front RCAs.)
> Channels 3, and 4 are used for the rear fill speakers. (Which is straight from the rear RCAs)
> 
> Why doesn't the sound completely shut off?
> Why does the Mosconi have the channel outputs grouped together? (1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 7&8)
> Why are the inputs grouped together? (1&2, 3&4, 5&6)


It doesn't shut off signal because it is not a full attenuation fade / balance, what you are experiencing is appropriate for how the DSP is designed.

Why are things linked? With the exception of a few different setups, 99% of the time everything is in stereo pairs, so they are linked.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> It doesn't shut off signal because it is not a full attenuation fade / balance, what you are experiencing is appropriate for how the DSP is designed.
> 
> Why are things linked? With the exception of a few different setups, 99% of the time everything is in stereo pairs, so they are linked.


Ok, thank you for the explanation.


----------



## bboyvek

cobb2819 said:


> Are you using the factory amplifier, or did your E92 have HiFi and you are tagging signal before the amp?


Yes, I have the HiFi option. I completely bypass(removed) the amplifier and used a technic's harness. I neglected to mention that I set the mosconi to
to high level already, and that I did the control reset trick from within the software. Gain all the way to the left still clips. Does the mosconi handles the
balanced differential output from the stock HU okay?


----------



## cobb2819

bboyvek said:


> Yes, I have the HiFi option. I completely bypass(removed) the amplifier and used a technic's harness. I neglected to mention that I set the mosconi to
> to high level already, and that I did the control reset trick from within the software. Gain all the way to the left still clips. Does the mosconi handles the
> balanced differential output from the stock HU okay?


Yeah, I've done it many times in customers vehicles with no problems except one, and that was an RCA issue. Moscow's high level input is specifically designed for Balanced signal, so, I think you have another issue somewhere else. 

Also, control reset really doesn't have anything to do with the muting.


----------



## bboyvek

cobb2819 said:


> Yeah, I've done it many times in customers vehicles with no problems except one, and that was an RCA issue. Moscow's high level input is specifically designed for Balanced signal, so, I think you have another issue somewhere else.
> 
> Also, control reset really doesn't have anything to do with the muting.


Thanks for confirming that this unit works with Balanced inputs. A bad RCA or a bad headunit. We scoped the HU and the output was clean so I don't think it's the headunit. I will keep looking to see if I can find what the issue is. On another note, as soon as the processor was mounted (metal surface) it started making a loud screeching sound. The solution was mounting it to a plastic board. Is that normal or does it point to a bad unit? Also, I assume you are a mosconi dealer, can I buy modules from you?


----------



## cobb2819

bboyvek said:


> Thanks for confirming that this unit works with Balanced inputs. A bad RCA or a bad headunit. We scoped the HU and the output was clean so I don't think it's the headunit. I will keep looking to see if I can find what the issue is. On another note, as soon as the processor was mounted (metal surface) it started making a loud screeching sound. The solution was mounting it to a plastic board. Is that normal or does it point to a bad unit? Also, I assume you are a mosconi dealer, can I buy modules from you?


Dealers cannot ship parts or products. I'm sure there is a dealer in your area. As for the noise, no...that is not normal and leads me to an install error or issue, and that needs to be addressed. Could be RCAs, could be headunit. Just because something scopes clean unloaded doesn't mean there isn't an issue in the completed install.


----------



## bboyvek

I will contact my local dealer and see if they can help me troubleshoot this issue. Thanks!


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Yes, that is THE solution if your device is trying to overdrive the input.


I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass here but can you explain why this would be happening? I didn't have this problem with the 4 volt version. Isn't turning the gain all the way down on the DSP and in turn having to crank it up on the amps to get my volume back gonna be causing various problems like noise for starters?
Set up like this it just doesn't sound right to me. It seems like the music lacks dynamics. It sounds dull and lifeless if that makes any sense. My first 6to8 sounded great!!!


----------



## cobb2819

IbizaOnAcid said:


> I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass here but can you explain why this would be happening? I didn't have this problem with the 4 volt version. Isn't turning the gain all the way down on the DSP and in turn having to crank it up on the amps to get my volume back gonna be causing various problems like noise for starters?
> Set up like this it just doesn't sound right to me. It seems like the music lacks dynamics. It sounds dull and lifeless if that makes any sense. My first 6to8 sounded great!!!


Well since you are sure it's the DSP, then the automute is in place to protect the DSP from an over driven input stage from a voltage perspective. I would be curious to know if it's not actually the DSP that is muting and if something is shutting down. Can you make the system mute on purpose? If so, what are the voltages at the input side of the dsp? What are the output voltages of the DSP? When the setup mutes, have you verified that the amps are still on?


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Well since you are sure it's the DSP, then the automute is in place to protect the DSP from an over driven input stage from a voltage perspective. I would be curious to know if it's not actually the DSP that is muting and if something is shutting down. Can you make the system mute on purpose? If so, what are the voltages at the input side of the dsp? What are the output voltages of the DSP? When the setup mutes, have you verified that the amps are still on?


Yes I can definitely make the system mute on purpose! When I get home I will check those voltages for you and report back.
Also I have verified that the amps do in fact stay on during the muting.
I mentioned this before but just to remind you this has been the situation with 2 different sources. First one was a Kenwood DNN990HD and now with the Pioneer AVIC8000 NEX.


----------



## cobb2819

IbizaOnAcid said:


> Yes I can definitely make the system mute on purpose! When I get home I will check those voltages for you and report back.
> Also I have verified that the amps do in fact stay on during the muting.
> I mentioned this before but just to remind you this has been the situation with 2 different sources. First one was a Kenwood DNN990HD and now with the Pioneer AVIC8000 NEX.


Is the tube preamp that is in your Siggy still in the equation as well??


----------



## IbizaOnAcid

cobb2819 said:


> Is the tube preamp that is in your Siggy still in the equation as well??


No it is not!


----------



## Hammer1

I have a question for you. Four times this has happened in the last couple months. The volume drops to about half of what it is so I do a reset on the DSP and it will be fine again. By volume drop I mean what was 10 on the RCD will become 20 on the RCD. The last couple times this has happened it was pretty hot outside I do not know if this has any bearing on the problem.


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> I have a question for you. Four times this has happened in the last couple months. The volume drops to about half of what it is so I do a reset on the DSP and it will be fine again. By volume drop I mean what was 10 on the RCD will become 20 on the RCD. The last couple times this has happened it was pretty hot outside I do not know if this has any bearing on the problem.


is there any EQ boost in the EQ? IS the Line driver enabled in the DSP. Typically when something gets quieter, it's caused by the DSP preventing clipping.


----------



## Hammer1

Nope no eq boost and same tune I have used for ever


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> Nope no eq boost and same tune I have used for ever


Have you noticed any constants other than weather? Same music, song, source, anything like that?


----------



## Hammer1

Does not matter what is playing. The last two times this happened it was pretty hot out


----------



## brother_c

*Re: Mosconi DSP 6to8 pics Question about power supply*

Does the input voltage to the 6to8 affect the output signal Vrms? I am using a linear regulator for my asynch spdif converter board. If the Vin to the 6to8 does not affect it's output, then I am going to add an LDO regulator for its +12V input to reduce noise. Input voltage to the 6to8 would be regulated at 12.4 volts with the LDO reg.

Thanks,
Colin


----------



## cobb2819

*Re: Mosconi DSP 6to8 pics Question about power supply*



brother_c said:


> Does the input voltage to the 6to8 affect the output signal Vrms? I am using a linear regulator for my asynch spdif converter board. If the Vin to the 6to8 does not affect it's output, then I am going to add an LDO regulator for its +12V input to reduce noise. Input voltage to the 6to8 would be regulated at 12.4 volts with the LDO reg.
> 
> Thanks,
> Colin


12.4v in to the dsp will just mean you'll need to run high level mode to get the voltage stepped down, but you should be fine. High level turns the remote in to a remote out, so you'll be reliant on signal sense, which might not work with your LDO.


----------



## brother_c

cobb2819 said:


> 12.4v in to the dsp will just mean you'll need to run high level mode to get the voltage stepped down, but you should be fine. High level turns the remote in to a remote out, so you'll be reliant on signal sense, which might not work with your LDO.


The input signal would be digital. The 12.4 volts would be the power supplied to the 6to8 on the three pin molex connector with +12v, Rem, Gnd. Does the output of the DSP vary with the power supply voltage like an amplifier? Are the rated outputs at 14.4V, 12.6V, etc different like an amplifier with an unregulated power supply? May have not made the question very clear the first time my bad.


----------



## cobb2819

brother_c said:


> The input signal would be digital. The 12.4 volts would be the power supplied to the 6to8 on the three pin molex connector with +12v, Rem, Gnd. Does the output of the DSP vary with the power supply voltage like an amplifier? Are the rated outputs at 14.4V, 12.6V, etc different like an amplifier with an unregulated power supply? May have not made the question very clear the first time my bad.


no, output voltage is not dependent on power supply voltage.


----------



## Trustno1

Hello

I'm a new user here, but been roaming for a while.

I have a few questions about the 6to8 v8.

I have the bluetooth streaming module, but when I use it, it seems to automatically turn off for a few milliseconds when there is a pause in the playback. This causes the first few notes to be missing when the sound commes back on. Have anyone else noticed this? Is there a fix for this?

Also, I am wondering, how do you know if you have the latest firmware for your device? Is this automatically checked when you connect to the software?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## JimmyDee

Trustno1 said:


> Hello
> 
> I'm a new user here, but been roaming for a while.
> 
> I have a few questions about the 6to8 v8.
> 
> I have the bluetooth streaming module, but when I use it, it seems to automatically turn off for a few milliseconds when there is a pause in the playback. This causes the first few notes to be missing when the sound commes back on. Have anyone else noticed this? Is there a fix for this?
> 
> Also, I am wondering, how do you know if you have the latest firmware for your device? Is this automatically checked when you connect to the software?
> 
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.


Welcome!

Couple things:

1. I've been watching the original X-Files on Netflix recently, and your user name (Trustno1) is Fox Mulder's password on his computer...

2. I used to own the 6to8, and I had the exact same issue. Turns-out that a software update was needed (and what fixed the issue for me). 

You can get the software update here: http://www.gladen-audio.com/DSP/download/6to8-4to6setup-XP.exe


----------



## Trustno1

Thanks for your reply.

I've used this username on different places for ages, and the origin had nothing to do with x-files, allthough I've heard the comparison some times before 

Anyway, i allready have the most recent software on my computer, but what I'm unsure of is how you flash the most recent firmware to the DSP.


----------



## cobb2819

Trustno1 said:


> I have the bluetooth streaming module, but when I use it, it seems to automatically turn off for a few milliseconds when there is a pause in the playback. This causes the first few notes to be missing when the sound commes back on. Have anyone else noticed this? Is there a fix for this?
> 
> Also, I am wondering, how do you know if you have the latest firmware for your device? Is this automatically checked when you connect to the software?


The timing issue is that the DSP is looking signal. You can try fine tuning the sensitivity in the AUX optical mixer, but the digital board has a preset time frame in which it starts to search for signal. When streaming on my phone, I typically just hit shuffle and never have this issue. I also make sure that my device volume is at full and the sensitivity is properly adjusted.

What is the FW number on your box, or on the stick on the bottom side of the DSP?


----------



## Trustno1

Hello

I will try to tune the sensitivity tomorrow.

I only get this problem on some specific tracks wich has a few short silences in the music. 

The DSP is brand new since my old one stopped working and I got it replaced under warranty. I do believe the sticker said 1.45. I will also check this later.


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## cobb2819

Trustno1 said:


> I do believe the sticker said 1.45. I will also check this later.


Current


----------



## Trustno1

cobb2819 said:


> The timing issue is that the DSP is looking signal. You can try fine tuning the sensitivity in the AUX optical mixer, but the digital board has a preset time frame in which it starts to search for signal. When streaming on my phone, I typically just hit shuffle and never have this issue. I also make sure that my device volume is at full and the sensitivity is properly adjusted.
> 
> What is the FW number on your box, or on the stick on the bottom side of the DSP?


Hello

Tuning the sensitivity in the optical mixer fixed my problem. Thanks.

But I have discovered a few other issues.

There seem to be some slight distortions/digital noises in some certain high frequencies at low volume when streaming from BT. 

Also at some points there seem to be a slight change in pitch when playing from BT. I've not been able to confirm this because it happens at random moments, and the change is so subtle that it is hard to tell if it is really there or something I'm just imagening. 

Have anyone expirienced theese issues?


----------



## kmbkk

Hey guys, 

I just installed my V8 and have run into a couple of problems:

1. No Bluetooth audio through the head unit (JVC KW-AVX740 with RCAs to V8) once I installed the V8. Prior, I was running radio power to speakers. Now everything is run through the V8 to Mosconi AS amps. My phone connects, and the radio shows its playing, but no sound. 

2. Constant hiss. I reset the controller with no luck. I also disconnected the output RCAs and the sound went away. I then disconnected the input RCAs (with output connected) and the sound was there. So I assume the next steps are to redo the V8 ground and/or move the jumper inside the V8? 

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## jtaudioacc

kmbkk said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just installed my V8 and have run into a couple of problems:
> 
> 1. No Bluetooth audio through the head unit (JVC KW-AVX740 with RCAs to V8) once I installed the V8. Prior, I was running radio power to speakers. Now everything is run through the V8 to Mosconi AS amps. My phone connects, and the radio shows its playing, but no sound.
> 
> 2. Constant hiss. I reset the controller with no luck. I also disconnected the output RCAs and the sound went away. I then disconnected the input RCAs (with output connected) and the sound was there. So I assume the next steps are to redo the V8 ground and/or move the jumper inside the V8?
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


are you just using the rear rca output of the radio? maybe have to turn the bluetooth from front to all.


----------



## kmbkk

jtaudioacc said:


> are you just using the rear rca output of the radio? maybe have to turn the bluetooth from front to all.


I'm using the front R/L RCAs from the radio to connect to the V8. All other audio works fine, it's just Bluetooth that doesn't play audio. The balance/fade are centered on the radio as well.


----------



## cobb2819

kmbkk said:


> 1. No Bluetooth audio through the head unit (JVC KW-AVX740 with RCAs to V8) once I installed the V8. Prior, I was running radio power to speakers. Now everything is run through the V8 to Mosconi AS amps. My phone connects, and the radio shows its playing, but no sound.


Probably not the fault of the processor, since your headunit isn't playing audio. Unless your phone is paired to another device, and it's thinking that other device is the audio destination.



kmbkk said:


> 2. Constant hiss. I reset the controller with no luck. I also disconnected the output RCAs and the sound went away. I then disconnected the input RCAs (with output connected) and the sound was there. So I assume the next steps are to redo the V8 ground and/or move the jumper inside the V8?


If you bypass the processor and go headunit to amps, is there hiss?


----------



## jtaudioacc

kmbkk said:


> I'm using the front R/L RCAs from the radio to connect to the V8. All other audio works fine, it's just Bluetooth that doesn't play audio. The balance/fade are centered on the radio as well.


i asked because you can have the bluetooth play from front only, or all.


----------



## kmbkk

jtaudioacc said:


> i asked because you can have the bluetooth play from front only, or all.


no worries. It's a valid question. It's just perplexing the Bluetooth audio would stop playing through the head unit soon as I connected the amp/dsp. The head unit shows it's playing but no sound is coming out.


----------



## jtaudioacc

kmbkk said:


> no worries. It's a valid question. It's just perplexing the Bluetooth audio would stop playing through the head unit soon as I connected the amp/dsp. The head unit shows it's playing but no sound is coming out.


it's a head unit, and gain issue. figure those out, and solve both your problems.


----------



## kmbkk

cobb2819 said:


> Probably not the fault of the processor, since your headunit isn't playing audio. Unless your phone is paired to another device, and it's thinking that other device is the audio destination.
> 
> 
> 
> If you bypass the processor and go headunit to amps, is there hiss?


Oh, I don't think it's a fault of the V8, per se, but didn't know if there was a setting I hadn't figured out yet. It very well could be with the radio.

I haven't tried bypassing the V8, but will try that. With the V8 outputs disconnected, though, it was quiet. With them connected and the inputs connected it is a constant hiss. Not too loud, but there nonetheless. I thought doing this narrowed it to the V8/ground? I'll try bypassing, though.

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## kmbkk

jtaudioacc said:


> it's a head unit, and gain issue. figure those out, and solve both your problems.


Well, if it's the head unit, I can't complain. This one is 6 years old.


----------



## kmbkk

cobb2819 said:


> If you bypass the processor and go headunit to amps, is there hiss?


Yes. I hooked the input RCAs directly into the tweeter amp and the hiss is still there. I turned down the amp gain to quieten it some. Now I'm stuck.


----------



## cobb2819

kmbkk said:


> Yes. I hooked the input RCAs directly into the tweeter amp and the hiss is still there. I turned down the amp gain to quieten it some. Now I'm stuck.


What RCAs are you using? If you take a headphone to RCA cable and plug it into the amp, is the amp silent or is the hiss there? We have ruled out the DSP, since you said the hiss is there going from head unit to amp, so now let's try and figure out where it's coming from.


----------



## kmbkk

cobb2819 said:


> What RCAs are you using? If you take a headphone to RCA cable and plug it into the amp, is the amp silent or is the hiss there? We have ruled out the DSP, since you said the hiss is there going from head unit to amp, so now let's try and figure out where it's coming from.


I'm using Hooker Audio RCAs. I'll have to pick up a a headphone to RCA cable and get back to you. Thanks!


----------



## kmbkk

Well, the Bluetooth magically started working again. So it was either the head unit or phone. Both could stand replacing.


----------



## helmetface00

After hanging onto my v8 for nearly 8 months, I finally have it all hooked up...though I'm having a bit of trouble getting started.

Setup: 

Coming from my HU is speaker level, which I've converted to RCA (2 channels coming out of the HU, to the DSP).

Within the HU, I left two channels still hooked up to my pre-existing speakers (hi's, so that I could still listen to the radio over this transition to the DSP). *Will I be able to disable these channels or should I just cut those wires*?

I am hoping I can get a little spoon feeding on getting started...

Thank you!

*Edit*

I mostly unsure of this: There are 4 channels coming out of my HU, only two of which I am using. When in the v8's Mixer, I (believe I) understand how to designate the inputs; however, the outputs elude me.

For example, Inputs 1+2 are currently set to 100% for all Output channels. How is it that I define where each signal goes to? That is, how is it that I split those two Input channels into (in my case) 6 Output channels?


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> *Will I be able to disable these channels or should I just cut those wires*?


Without more info what what you've actually done and what channels you have feeding the DSP and what is left hooked up, this cannot be answered. What is the source unit (HU)?



helmetface00 said:


> For example, Inputs 1+2 are currently set to 100% for all Output channels. How is it that I define where each signal goes to? That is, how is it that I split those two Input channels into (in my case) 6 Output channels?


It's already done. The inputs are feeding the outputs. Since you're only using two input channels, the mixer is pretty must set for you from the factory.


----------



## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> Without more info what what you've actually done and what channels you have feeding the DSP and what is left hooked up, this cannot be answered.


Woops, the rest didn't copy over, here's the low down (thanks for jumping on this so quickly).

Source (HU) -> single RCA pair -> V8 -> 6 channels out -> 2x amps -> speakers

From the HU, I converted Front Left + and - output into an RCA, same with Front Right. So there is a single set of RCA coming from the HU, to the v8 *(Is this my first mistake? Should there be two sets of RCA's coming from the HU?)*

This single RCA pair enters the v8 as Channel 1+2. From there, I am using 6 output channels on the v8; 2 hi's, 2 mid's, 2 woofers. 

In the Mixer, I have set all Output channels to 100%, in the 1+2 Input row (just to get some sound out of all speakers). However, only my Left Mid is playing sound currently.

Please let me know what else I can provide! And thank you!


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> Woops, the rest didn't copy over, here's the low down (thanks for jumping on this so quickly).
> 
> Source (HU) -> single RCA pair -> V8 -> 6 channels out -> 2x amps -> speakers
> 
> From the HU, I converted Front Left + and - output into an RCA, same with Front Right. So there is a single set of RCA coming from the HU, to the v8 *(Is this my first mistake? Should there be two sets of RCA's coming from the HU?)*
> 
> This single RCA pair enters the v8 as Channel 1+2. From there, I am using 6 output channels on the v8; 2 hi's, 2 mid's, 2 woofers.
> 
> In the Mixer, I have set all Output channels to 100%, in the 1+2 Input row (just to get some sound out of all speakers). However, only my Left Mid is playing sound currently.
> 
> Please let me know what else I can provide! And thank you!


Assuming the install is sound, it should be functioning properly now. Try grabbing a headphone to RCA adapter and plug that into the 1 and 2 input of the DSP and use your phone as the source for trouble shooting. IF everything works fine, then the head unit or the wiring before the DSP is bad. You can also use the same cable plugged directly into the amps to verify. 

You might also need to reset the DSP and reset the remote control level if this was not done originally during the initial setup. Those whole procedure should be done with no audio playing, especially if you are running active. 

As for disabling or cutting the OEM wiring, in theory you should be able to use the fader to "turn off" the remaining OEM audio equipment and only send audio to the DSP.


----------



## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> Assuming the install is sound, it should be functioning properly now. Try grabbing a headphone to RCA adapter and plug that into the 1 and 2 input of the DSP and use your phone as the source for trouble shooting. IF everything works fine, then the head unit or the wiring before the DSP is bad. You can also use the same cable plugged directly into the amps to verify.
> 
> You might also need to reset the DSP and reset the remote control level if this was not done originally during the initial setup. Those whole procedure should be done with no audio playing, especially if you are running active.
> 
> As for disabling or cutting the OEM wiring, in theory you should be able to use the fader to "turn off" the remaining OEM audio equipment and only send audio to the DSP.


I'll give that shot, thank you.

One other thing I guess I might be confused on, as well, is 'how' to flash the changes made in the software to the DSP.

Are changes on the computer automatically flashed to the device? I see the save/load function, but that appears to be just within the computer itself.

The only time I ever see the option to upload data to the DSP, is upon plugging in the USB, but that doesn't seem to retain the data/changes I've made on the PC end.

***All six speakers are now functioning...Give me the moron of the year award...it was the AMP's on the wrong settings...sigh***


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> Are changes on the computer automatically flashed to the device? I see the save/load function, but that appears to be just within the computer itself.


As long as the software says connected, all adjustments are real time.


----------



## helmetface00

A follow-up consideration:

The two channels I pulled from at the source (L/R front) also play the door chime/seatbelt/low fuel etc messages coming from the vehicle. 

These chimes are now excessively loud, can anyone think of a way that I could limit them? The gains are turned down to an appropriate level, but I can't think of a way to isolate these messages.


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> A follow-up consideration:
> 
> The two channels I pulled from at the source (L/R front) also play the door chime/seatbelt/low fuel etc messages coming from the vehicle.
> 
> These chimes are now excessively loud, can anyone think of a way that I could limit them? The gains are turned down to an appropriate level, but I can't think of a way to isolate these messages.


It is also bluetooth and nav, or just chimes?


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## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> It is also bluetooth and nav, or just chimes?


Just chimes.


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> Just chimes.


Simple solution would be to use the front head unit outputs to the rear speakers, and then use the rear outputs to feed the DSP. This way, if you fade to the rear on the head unit, it'll be to the DSP; however, the chimes will still come through the driver's side rear speaker at it's normal chime volume.


----------



## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> Simple solution would be to use the front head unit outputs to the rear speakers, and then use the rear outputs to feed the DSP. This way, if you fade to the rear on the head unit, it'll be to the DSP; however, the chimes will still come through the driver's side rear speaker at it's normal chime volume.


Fantastic, I like simple 

On another note, if anyone has any good documentation for tuning, I'd love some links/literature (I'm working on finding the tutorials supplied with the software, for whatever reason I get errors as I try to open them within the tuning software).

My confusion currently lies in the crossover/filter selection. It would appear that I must apply a filter, in order to set a crossover- which in it of itself, confuses me.

I have set my mids (a fullrange 4") to flat, my high's with a Butterworth 6b @ 4500Hz and my door woofer is random.

Drivers for reference (click for links to specs):
Woofer: Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5"
Mids: Discovery 10F/8414G-10 Full Range 4"
Highs: Peerless NE25VTS-04 1"

Any other information I can provide, please let me know...and thanks for any input!


----------



## james2266

helmetface00 said:


> Fantastic, I like simple
> 
> On another note, if anyone has any good documentation for tuning, I'd love some links/literature (I'm working on finding the tutorials supplied with the software, for whatever reason I get errors as I try to open them within the tuning software).
> 
> My confusion currently lies in the crossover/filter selection. It would appear that I must apply a filter, in order to set a crossover- which in it of itself, confuses me.
> 
> I have set my mids (a fullrange 4") to flat, my high's with a Butterworth 6b @ 4500Hz and my door woofer is random.
> 
> Drivers for reference (click for links to specs):
> Woofer: Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5"
> Mids: Discovery 10F/8414G-10 Full Range 4"
> Highs: Peerless NE25VTS-04 1"
> 
> Any other information I can provide, please let me know...and thanks for any input!


Do not play that 4 inch without a crossover. With any power you have a real risk of blowing it up. My recommend would be to start with something like 400 Hz - 24 db high pass crossover and low pass it as high as 5 kHz - 24 db low pass if you want. That is a very nice sounding driver. Also, you will need a subwoofer most likely. I would cross that 6.5 around 80 Hz as well and let the sub take anything lower. These are good places to start. Have fun.


----------



## helmetface00

james2266 said:


> Do not play that 4 inch without a crossover. With any power you have a real risk of blowing it up. My recommend would be to start with something like 400 Hz - 24 db high pass crossover and low pass it as high as 5 kHz - 24 db low pass if you want. That is a very nice sounding driver. Also, you will need a subwoofer most likely. I would cross that 6.5 around 80 Hz as well and let the sub take anything lower. These are good places to start. Have fun.


Awesome, exactly whatI was looking for, "ways not to break things."

Regarding all the filters, are any preferable to others in certain ranges?


----------



## james2266

helmetface00 said:


> Awesome, exactly whatI was looking for, "ways not to break things."
> 
> Regarding all the filters, are any preferable to others in certain ranges?


Personally I always stick with LR 24 db slopes or BW 24 db slopes. It really is a personal preference thing. The difference between the two is that LR-24 has a completely flat frequency response through the crossover point while the BW-24db will have a 3 db rise at the crossover point. It's been a while since I've used the Mosconi processor but if I recall correctly there is no way to get a BW 24 db crossover as it stacks them in 12 db or 6 db pairs to get higher slopes. 2 x 12 db BW is a LR-24 db slope... If it were me that's what I would do. 2 x 12 db BW slopes to get that LR-24 slope on all crossovers. 

So, for a starting point I would go with the following:

Sub - 80 Hz - 24 db low pass.
Midbass - 80 Hz - 24 db high pass and 400 Hz - 24 db low pass
Midrange - 400 Hz - 24 db high pass and 4 kHz low pass
Tweeter - 4 kHz - 24 db high pass

Many a times I end up with my sub-midbass crossover around 60 Hz and the midbass-midrange crossover as close to 250 Hz as I can get it but I use 8 inch midbass as well that are very capable.


----------



## cobb2819

If you guys don't mind taking the tuning questions to another post or stand alone post, that would be great. Trying to keep this tread as closely related to setup and trouble shooting for the Mosconi processors as we can.


----------



## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> If you guys don't mind taking the tuning questions to another post or stand alone post, that would be great. Trying to keep this tread as closely related to setup and trouble shooting for the Mosconi processors as we can.


You got it.

Thanks again for the help in getting me rolling!


----------



## Trustno1

Do anyone know if there is possible to make the channel 7&8 to play mono?

My plan is for one channel to play lower notes on a subwoofer in the back, and the other channel to play higher notes (going to use it for a sub/midwoofer in the center console, with a different crossover/eq setting)

But as far as I have found out, there is no way of configuring the outputs as mono.


----------



## cobb2819

Trustno1 said:


> Do anyone know if there is possible to make the channel 7&8 to play mono?
> 
> My plan is for one channel to play lower notes on a subwoofer in the back, and the other channel to play higher notes (going to use it for a sub/midwoofer in the center console, with a different crossover/eq setting)
> 
> But as far as I have found out, there is no way of configuring the outputs as mono.


What is the audio source?


----------



## Trustno1

cobb2819 said:


> What is the audio source?


It would be several. Bluetooth, Optical and RCA. I would maybe guess you were about to suggest summing on the input side of the RCA, but I dont think it would be feasable in my setup.


----------



## cobb2819

There is a firmware available that makes 7&8 both a mono with L+R to each.


----------



## Trustno1

cobb2819 said:


> There is a firmware available that makes 7&8 both a mono with L+R to each.


An unofficial? Where can you download it, and how do you install?


----------



## tonny

Trustno1 said:


> An unofficial? Where can you download it, and how do you install?


It is not for download as far as I know..... better get in contact with your dealer they should be able to get the update and the manual to do it.


----------



## helmetface00

Is it typical to leave all outputs at 100%

Initially, I had set 1+2 inputs as 100% output for channeld 1-6. But now I am wondering if this is correct?


----------



## cobb2819

helmetface00 said:


> Is it typical to leave all outputs at 100%
> 
> Initially, I had set 1+2 inputs as 100% output for channeld 1-6. But now I am wondering if this is correct?


Yes, because you want all the input signal to pass into those outputs.


----------



## helmetface00

cobb2819 said:


> Yes, because you want all the input signal to pass into those outputs.


I assumed so. Thanks for such a fast reply!


----------



## idelgado782

Hey guys! Rookie question. I'm trying to install my 6to8 in my Acura ILX and I would like to try to do it myself. The ILX has an internal amp non premium 7 speakers. I'm not an expert so I was looking to grab the signal post amp but I've read a lot of conflicting information on Hondas/Acuras about balanced differential inputs. I wasn't sure if the 6to8 would be able to handle it. I was also worried about the chimes and audio inputs from voice command if I grabbed pre amp. 

I've attached the stereo connections for my car and would love the pro's feedback on what would be the best way to grab signal. Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## cobb2819

idelgado782 said:


> Hey guys! Rookie question. I'm trying to install my 6to8 in my Acura ILX and I would like to try to do it myself. The ILX has an internal amp non premium 7 speakers. I'm not an expert so I was looking to grab the signal *post amp* but I've read a lot of conflicting information on Hondas/Acuras about *balanced differential inputs*. I wasn't sure if the 6to8 would be able to handle it. I was also *worried* about the chimes and audio inputs from voice command* if I grabbed pre amp*.


The hard part here is that without knowing where information is actually generated, and what information is carried along which lines, it's hard to answer. Plus, if you are grabbing post amp, then everything else above doesn't really matter. 

If you grab pre amp, you'll have to figure out how to mix the nav/prompt voice back in, and are you going to have to run a control for master vol because the audio is fixed or is it variable??

You might want to research your car's audio platform and see what information you can find out about it's actual features, and then we can talk about the best way to make it work in your car.

The easiest, go post amp and call it a day.


----------



## .69077

Gonna attempt to reinstall my 6to8 along with my One amps and Zero Pro speakers in my new truck. I'm sure I'll be picking your brain soon. Hopefully I can manage myself or it's back to Danny @ Amplified in Tampa


----------



## idelgado782

Thank you for the quick response. It's hard to find info on the car since it's so new. I was thinking about just grabbing the signal post amp using 9 wire and taking it from there. I'll see what I get done this weekend and I'll circle back. Thank you for the help. 



cobb2819 said:


> The hard part here is that without knowing where information is actually generated, and what information is carried along which lines, it's hard to answer. Plus, if you are grabbing post amp, then everything else above doesn't really matter.
> 
> If you grab pre amp, you'll have to figure out how to mix the nav/prompt voice back in, and are you going to have to run a control for master vol because the audio is fixed or is it variable??
> 
> You might want to research your car's audio platform and see what information you can find out about it's actual features, and then we can talk about the best way to make it work in your car.
> 
> The easiest, go post amp and call it a day.


----------



## midipuppies

Apologies if this is covered already, but I couldn't quite find what I am looking for.

I've been lurking here for quite a while as I built my system. 

I am ready to configure 2x Mosconi Zero 4's, Focal no.7's, Mosconi 6to8V, and a JL stealthbox.
The amps are set flat due to the dsp.

I am just starting to play with the DSP software, and something strange that I am seeing is in the frequency chart. It will only display channel 1 and 2's curves. I have tried all kinds of random fc's on the other channels, but all it ever shows for those is a flat linear line at 0db.
All channels have input values assigned, and I can't think of anything that I am missing.

If there is an existing post that has recommended fc settings for these no.7's, please point it out to me. I am assuming that the mids will need a combo hi/lo pass arrangement.

Thanks in advance,

Jay


----------



## cobb2819

midipuppies said:


> Apologies if this is covered already, but I couldn't quite find what I am looking for.
> 
> I've been lurking here for quite a while as I built my system.
> 
> I am ready to configure 2x Mosconi Zero 4's, Focal no.7's, Mosconi 6to8V, and a JL stealthbox.
> The amps are set flat due to the dsp.
> 
> I am just starting to play with the DSP software, and something strange that I am seeing is in the frequency chart. It will only display channel 1 and 2's curves. I have tried all kinds of random fc's on the other channels, but all it ever shows for those is a flat linear line at 0db.
> All channels have input values assigned, and I can't think of anything that I am missing.
> 
> If there is an existing post that has recommended fc settings for these no.7's, please point it out to me. I am assuming that the mids will need a combo hi/lo pass arrangement.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Jay


Have you set crossovers in the software for the outputs?


----------



## midipuppies

Yes. I was able to see curves for 1 and 2 only, which are both high pass for the tweets.

I'm going to connect to it again this weekend, and this time I will screenshot the settings.

Thanks,

JT


----------



## FreeFly'r

I have this posted in the General forum but figured I might get more traction in this thread.

I'm trying to figure out why my Mosconi 4to6 powers up with the HU off. The HU is a factory Toyota with high level inputs at the DSP, and Autosense set to BTL. I've tried the Autosense set to SE but the results were the same with both the amp and DSP being powered on w/the HU off. Anybody have any ideas on what I should try? Thanks


----------



## cobb2819

FreeFly'r said:


> I have this posted in the General forum but figured I might get more traction in this thread.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why my Mosconi 4to6 powers up with the HU off. The HU is a factory Toyota with high level inputs at the DSP, and Autosense set to BTL. I've tried the Autosense set to SE but the results were the same with both the amp and DSP being powered on w/the HU off. Anybody have any ideas on what I should try? Thanks


What factory installed audio package is in the vehicle? Is it factory amplified?


----------



## FreeFly'r

Thanks for chiming in Jacob. 

No JBL, Navi, or Entune. Just the basic 2013 Toyota touchscreen. I'm using the 2 front speakers for signal to the processor. 4to6 is set to Hi/BTL, input gains are all the way up with no clipping at the processor.


----------



## cobb2819

FreeFly'r said:


> Thanks for chiming in Jacob.
> 
> No JBL, Navi, or Entune. Just the basic 2013 Toyota touchscreen. I'm using the 2 front speakers for signal to the processor. 4to6 is set to Hi/BTL, input gains are all the way up with no clipping at the processor.


Without pulling the information off of the factory head unit as to what it is outputting, it's possible that it is sending turn on information even with the "source" off. If anything like chimes or warning go through a speaker, then the head unit it still on, you've just turn off the audio source. If you unplug the RCAs, and wait a bit, does the DSP turn off? If so, signal sense is working properly, and the car is turning it on and off.


----------



## FreeFly'r

cobb2819 said:


> Without pulling the information off of the factory head unit as to what it is outputting, it's possible that it is sending turn on information even with the "source" off. If anything like chimes or warning go through a speaker, then the head unit it still on, you've just turn off the audio source. If you unplug the RCAs, and wait a bit, does the DSP turn off? If so, signal sense is working properly, and the car is turning it on and off.


Yes, when I unplug the RCA's everything shuts down. 

No chimes go through the speakers although Bluetooth does for the phone. Basically, I removed the factory front speaker wiring pins from the harness connector at the HU, installed new pins/wiring and soldered to the RCA's.


----------



## cobb2819

FreeFly'r said:


> Yes, when I unplug the RCA's everything shuts down.
> 
> No chimes go through the speakers although Bluetooth does for the phone. Basically, I removed the factory front speaker wiring pins from the harness connector at the HU, installed new pins/wiring and soldered to the RCA's.


So the everything is function as it should, because the car keeps the DSP on for handsfree.


----------



## FreeFly'r

cobb2819 said:


> So the everything is function as it should, because the car keeps the DSP on for handsfree.


OK then..... That makes sense. Thanks again for your help!


----------



## Hammer1

Question for you Jacob. I see on the Mosconi site they now list software as the Mosconi / Gladen New Generation 6to8 Aerospace, 8to12 Aerospace and 8to12 Pro. So is there a new 6to8 or have they now made the software that was for the 8to12 Aerospace work with the 6to8V8. When I use the original software it says there is a newer version and would I like to download it. When I do I always get a error and it quits the install.


----------



## tonny

Over here you can download the new software for the older dsp's: 

GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY


----------



## Hammer1

I have the old software, Thanks and I called my Dealer and have now answered my questions. They do have a new 6to8 out.


----------



## crackinhedz

Don't know if this has been discussed, and solved...

I am noticing when I use my own PEQ settings (REWW auto EQ), for some reason the 6to8v8 is not saving the Q on several settings.

For instance, lets say I set this:

240 HZ 
-5db gain
Q 2.6


...I notice the 6to8 will keep the frequency and gain, but reverts the Q back to 4.00

But the strange thing is it will save some but not all the peq Q changes. 

So, is there some kind of limit to how many it can keep? Its boggling my mind and makes no sense.

Thanks for any help, and if Im not making sense I can be more specific


----------



## mclaren1885

I've also noticed the same issue of Q not being saved. Usually happens on the left bands of the 31 band EQ. Meaning bands 1-15 bands don't save the Q value. 

One way to ensure it saves is to get out of the Para EQ Menu. Go back and entire the Q values again. And this time it should save. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## crackinhedz

Thanks Mclaren, I'll give that a try!


----------



## crackinhedz

Yes, that did the trick Mclaren!

Odd that it does that, hope it can be fixed.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

This issue was annoying me as well. I found a different solution that might work for others too.

When entering parametric EQ values, I use the keyboard exclusively to move the cursor between fields, enter values, and exit the PEQ window. For example I'll click once on the Q field, enter a number, and use a combination of TAB and SHIFT+TAB to move the cursor to the frequency field and amplitude slider, then UP and DOWN arrows to change the slider. I finish with the ESC key to get back to the overall EQ page.

I don't remember which part of that process was the key for fixing Q values not sticking because it was not an easy bug to reproduce. I'm nearly certain it was something to do with using the keyboard instead of the mouse, or using the TAB button after inputting a value for Q.


----------



## cobb2819

Jazzi said:


> This issue was annoying me as well. I found a different solution that might work for others too.
> 
> When entering parametric EQ values, I use the keyboard exclusively to move the cursor between fields, enter values, and exit the PEQ window. For example I'll click once on the Q field, enter a number, and use a combination of TAB and SHIFT+TAB to move the cursor to the frequency field and amplitude slider, then UP and DOWN arrows to change the slider. I finish with the ESC key to get back to the overall EQ page.
> 
> I don't remember which part of that process was the key for fixing Q values not sticking because it was not an easy bug to reproduce. I'm nearly certain it was something to do with using the keyboard instead of the mouse, or using the TAB button after inputting a value for Q.


This is common to several features in the software. Anytime a value is keyed, a TAB click is recommended to allow the software to calculate. This was a huge learning curve for some people in the Time Alignment area.


----------



## Justin Zazzi

cobb2819:

I haven't kept up with this thread in a while so maybe this was answered already, and I haven't done any software or firmware updates in a very long time too. Is there a more recent version of the software that fixes this bug? If not, are there any plans to fix this in the future?


----------



## cobb2819

I have not had a chance to really dive into the new processor software to know if this is fixed, in that I've always just hit tab, and really this topic hasn't come up in quite a while, with the except of today. When I boot windows next, i'll take a look. This won't have been "fixed" in the 6to8/4to6 software, as development and updates for that have stopped for the most part.


----------



## Alives

My 6to8 has developed an issue where all of a sudden all the audio shifts to one side (right or left) and becomes extremely distorted, and at full DSP volume (head unit volume still works but plays distorted -- I assume both channels are being merged and added?). This happens randomly.

I've been able to reproduce this issue 2x in about 15 minutes of driving, but sometimes I can do over 3 hours of driving without it happening once. I was able to reproduce it yesterday after flashing my high-beams a few times, but with a Fluke 115 True RMS Multimeter hooked up monitoring min/max voltage, I only saw a drop down to 12.38 and a peak of 14.45 while the issue happened. Since this has been happening so often, I hooked up a switch on the remote line on the DSP and powercycled it. When it came back up, it was fine.

Have you seen this issue before? What should I do?


----------



## cobb2819

Alives said:


> My 6to8 has developed an issue where all of a sudden all the audio shifts to one side (right or left) and becomes extremely distorted, and at full DSP volume (head unit volume still works but plays distorted -- I assume both channels are being merged and added?). This happens randomly.
> 
> I've been able to reproduce this issue 2x in about 15 minutes of driving, but sometimes I can do over 3 hours of driving without it happening once. I was able to reproduce it yesterday after flashing my high-beams a few times, but with a Fluke 115 True RMS Multimeter hooked up monitoring min/max voltage, I only saw a drop down to 12.38 and a peak of 14.45 while the issue happened. Since this has been happening so often, I hooked up a switch on the remote line on the DSP and powercycled it. When it came back up, it was fine.
> 
> Have you seen this issue before? What should I do?


This is a new one for me. If you have a saved copy of your tune. Reset the DSP using the methods mentioned in this thread, and see of that fixes it. Being able to flash your high beams and cause an issue with the DSP seems highly unlikely. When you cycle the DSP off, does this also turn the amp off? If so, try moving the switch to only the amp, and see if you can replicate your "fix".


----------



## Alives

cobb2819 said:


> This is a new one for me. If you have a saved copy of your tune. Reset the DSP using the methods mentioned in this thread, and see of that fixes it. Being able to flash your high beams and cause an issue with the DSP seems highly unlikely. When you cycle the DSP off, does this also turn the amp off? If so, try moving the switch to only the amp, and see if you can replicate your "fix".


No, the DSP and amps have dedicated remote wires, so the amps stay on (I can confirm because I hear the pop and thud when the dsp turns on and off which is programmed to happen before and after the amps). I hate to be a pain, but I can't find the reset instructions. Can you link me? I didn't tune the 6to8, SiS did. Should I be able to download the current tune configs from it?


----------



## dvsadvocate

Anybody have an idea if its possible to output mono on channels 7 and 8? My amp has a busted left channel but its bridged mono so my right might be able to get the left info in if I was able to do it in mono via the 6to8. Please help.


----------



## cobb2819

This is a feature in the new 6to8 platform that should cover both the Pro and Aerospace models.


----------



## dvsadvocate

cobb2819 said:


> This is a feature in the new 6to8 platform that should cover both the Pro and Aerospace models.



But not the older V8 right?


----------



## tonny

There is a different firmware version for the older 6to8 models which puts channel 7 and 8 as mono channels, but you can't do it in the software... I had to bring back the dsp to the distributor to get that done for me.


----------



## JayinMI

Is the new 6to8 Aerospace going to be native 24/192? I wasn't sure what "Audiophile grade" meant on the website, and I know the 8to12 Aero will do it, but I don't need 12 channels.

Jay


----------



## cobb2819

JayinMI said:


> Is the new 6to8 Aerospace going to be native 24/192? I wasn't sure what "Audiophile grade" meant on the website, and I know the 8to12 Aero will do it, but I don't need 12 channels.
> 
> Jay


Nope, 24/96. Didn't believe me when you asked?


----------



## rton20s

cobb2819 said:


> Nope, 24/96. Didn't believe me when you asked?


----------



## JayinMI

cobb2819 said:


> Nope, 24/96. Didn't believe me when you asked?


Sorry. I happened to see the thread, and figured confirmation was never a bad thing. I appreciate the time you took to answer my questions, for sure. Thanks!

Jay


----------



## JayinMI

rton20s said:


>


Do you just have a portable hard drive with Meme's on it? lol

Jay


----------



## jtaudioacc




----------



## JayinMI

Thanks, John. Jacob told me as much the other day. I was hoping to get off cheaper than an 8to12. 

Jay


----------



## Hammer1

[ and QUOTE=JayinMI;4706241]Thanks, John. Jacob told me as much the other day. /I was hoping to get off cheaper than an 8to12. 

Jay[/QUOTE]/
I don't think you will notice the difference between 24/96 and 24/192 in a car driving


----------



## rton20s

Hammers said:


> I don't think you will notice the difference between 24/96 and 24/192 in a car driving


You'll be missing that extra sparkle above 48 kHz.


----------



## JayinMI

My upper range stops around 15k. I'll probably be OK, then. lol

Jay


----------



## Offroader5

Mine is having issues lately with the BT connecting. Sometimes it won't connect and even if I unpair and try to repair...it doesn't find the AMAS. Is there a fix for this? Is there a problem with 3rd he BT module? I can't imagine the module could "go bad".


----------



## dvsadvocate

Question:

I have already set my amp gains paired with the 6to8 V8 as well as matched my DRZ9255SE to the DSP. If I replace my head unit with a different head unit, say a Denford 8250, do i need to reset my amp gains again, or do i just match the head unit to the DSP?


----------



## hykbooks

is masconi better than helix p six


----------



## Hammer1

dvsadvocate said:


> Question:
> 
> I have already set my amp gains paired with the 6to8 V8 as well as matched my DRZ9255SE to the DSP. If I replace my head unit with a different head unit, say a Denford 8250, do i need to reset my amp gains again, or do i just match the head unit to the DSP?


You should not have to reset your amp gains and if the old and new HU have the same preout voltage you should be fine with input settings too


----------



## Hammer1

hykbooks said:


> is masconi better than helix p six


That depends on which Mosconi your looking at. The mosconi 6to8 does not have a 6 channel amp but DSP wise I would say it is a toss up as both are good but a lot depends on how you like the software between the two. Some people do not like the Mosconi software. I myself have no problem with it and they will be out with new software next month. Mosconi makes a DSP/amp. GLADEN ONE line \ GLADEN ONE 130.4 DSP it is a 4 channel and has the 4 to6 DSP built in


----------



## dvsadvocate

Hammers said:


> You should not have to reset your amp gains and if the old and new HU have the same preout voltage you should be fine with input settings too


Thanks. So it means the Mosconi outputs should be the same no matter how you adjust the input voltage coming form the head unit right?


----------



## Hammer1

dvsadvocate said:


> Thanks. So it means the Mosconi outputs should be the same no matter how you adjust the input voltage coming form the head unit right?


No the input gain will effect the output voltage


----------



## dvsadvocate

Hammers said:


> No the input gain will effect the output voltage


OK now I get it. Didnt really understand your first statement lol!

I have a Clarion DRZ-9255SE and I want to change it from time to time with my RF 8250Ti thats why. I guess ill be needing to measure their output voltages first.


----------



## deputydog95

84 pages, a lot to read through. 

Trying to wrap up my old Porsche audio project. Everything is done except the head unit and the processor. Well, the processor is done as I just ordered the 6to8 Aerospace today.

I really can't find a head unit I like... I wish somebody made a nice reference unit that had a very simple display and didn't include an onboard DSP I'm not going to use. Considered the Sony but I didn't want to spend $1500 on a radio I would end up controlling with my phone using from what I've heard a somewhat buggy Sony app. The Pioneer 99 is nice but it's almost 8 years old at this point. I'm very suspicious of that they can include all the features they list on these $200 Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer units, and they still sound good.

Has anyone eliminated the head unit altogether and just run the 6to8 with the Amas and the DSP display with volume knob?

I don't even own any CD's... All my music (mostly AAC, MPEG, MP3) is loaded on an iPod and my Samsung phone. If I want radio, I can always stream through Pandora or iHeart.

Supposedly the Amas audio quality is outstanding.

Am I crazy to think that this would be a great way to get some really clean audio straight to the processor while at the same time getting the bare bones look of a radio with the simple clean DSP display in the dash?

Pro's?
Con's?


----------



## DPGstereo

Hammers said:


> [ and QUOTE=JayinMI;4706241]Thanks, John. Jacob told me as much the other day. /I was hoping to get off cheaper than an 8to12.
> 
> Jay


/
I don't think you will notice the difference between 24/96 and 24/192 in a car driving[/QUOTE]

I spoke to Jacob about that very question. I was ready to pony up and buy the more expensive 8to12 Aerospace over the 6to8 Aerospace. He offered that, I'd like to say that spending the extra money would give you better results, but no. And he knows the over-the-top project I have going on. Said if inputs and outputs were enough, no sonic difference would be gained.
Thought that was pretty cool of him, he could have easily steered me the more expensive route.



--


----------



## outroku

deputydog95 said:


> 84 pages, a lot to read through.
> 
> Trying to wrap up my old Porsche audio project. Everything is done except the head unit and the processor. Well, the processor is done as I just ordered the 6to8 Aerospace today.
> 
> I really can't find a head unit I like... I wish somebody made a nice reference unit that had a very simple display and didn't include an onboard DSP I'm not going to use. Considered the Sony but I didn't want to spend $1500 on a radio I would end up controlling with my phone using from what I've heard a somewhat buggy Sony app. The Pioneer 99 is nice but it's almost 8 years old at this point. I'm very suspicious of that they can include all the features they list on these $200 Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer units, and they still sound good.
> 
> Has anyone eliminated the head unit altogether and just run the 6to8 with the Amas and the DSP display with volume knob?
> 
> I don't even own any CD's... All my music (mostly AAC, MPEG, MP3) is loaded on an iPod and my Samsung phone. If I want radio, I can always stream through Pandora or iHeart.
> 
> Supposedly the Amas audio quality is outstanding.
> 
> Am I crazy to think that this would be a great way to get some really clean audio straight to the processor while at the same time getting the bare bones look of a radio with the simple clean DSP display in the dash?
> 
> Pro's?
> Con's?


You're not crazy. I've been using an ipad mini with an AMAS for over 2 years. Best SQ I've experienced of doing SQ systems in 30 years. All my files I've converted from FLAC to ALAC. Most of them are 16-bit. A few are 24-bit. Of course, if you choose a non-Apple tablet, use FLAC files. 

Plus my ipad has the Cellular feature so I can stream anything.

I chose the non-HU route because of a few people's success on this forum. That and my SUV's stock HU is next to impossible to replace with a double DIN HU. In fact, I had to use a CD Slot Tablet Mount to hold my ipad mini in place in front of the stock HU.

BTW - I plan to upgrade my 6to8 to the 8to12 Aerospace in the next month.


----------



## deputydog95

outroku said:


> You're not crazy. I've been using an ipad mini with an AMAS for over 2 years. Best SQ I've experienced of doing SQ systems in 30 years. All my files I've converted from FLAC to ALAC. Most of them are 16-bit. A few are 24-bit. Of course, if you choose a non-Apple tablet, use FLAC files.
> 
> Plus my ipad has the Cellular feature so I can stream anything.
> 
> I chose the non-HU route because of a few people's success on this forum. That and my SUV's stock HU is next to impossible to replace with a double DIN HU. In fact, I had to use a CD Slot Tablet Mount to hold my ipad mini in place in front of the stock HU.
> 
> BTW - I plan to upgrade my 6to8 to the 8to12 Aerospace in the next month.


Thanks for the feedback.

Have you been able to use your phone through the Amas for calls? Just curious, not a deal breaker.

If you already had a 6to8, why are jumping up to the 8to12 Aerospace? I get the aerospace upgrade, are you expanding your setup?

I don't have any high res files at the moment. Just thousands of AAC and MP3 files. I do plan on grabbing better qualify files moving forward though.

All things being equal, should an AAC file sound better going through the Amas versus sending it to a head unit and then sending it to the DSP?

If your source is an iPad, does iOS allow you store high res files on there and if so, does the DAC in the ipad downgrade them? Or is it bypassed when going through the blue tooth? 

Are you using the 6to8 DSP display? If so, do you like it?

Sorry for so many questions, just trying to learn as much as I can.


----------



## outroku

deputydog95 said:


> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> Have you been able to use your phone through the Amas for calls? Just curious, not a deal breaker.
> 
> If you already had a 6to8, why are jumping up to the 8to12 Aerospace? I get the aerospace upgrade, are you expanding your setup?
> 
> I don't have any high res files at the moment. Just thousands of AAC and MP3 files. I do plan on grabbing better qualify files moving forward though.
> 
> All things being equal, should an AAC file sound better going through the Amas versus sending it to a head unit and then sending it to the DSP?
> 
> If your source is an iPad, does iOS allow you store high res files on there and if so, does the DAC in the ipad downgrade them? Or is it bypassed when going through the blue tooth?
> 
> Are you using the 6to8 DSP display? If so, do you like it?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions, just trying to learn as much as I can.


I have not attempted phone calls through the amas. I specifically bought an ipad so that my phone did not have to pull double duty. Plus it makes a million times more convenient and safer locating a song on a tablet in front of you rather than a phone in your pocket or console.

Needed the 8to12 to do a center channel.

You'd have to contact Jacob at Orca to ask about SQ on a reg file through the amas vs. a HU/DSP.

The ipad will do up to 24-bit/44K files. You cannot load a file greater than those figures. The ipad does not downgrade a file.

I only use my DSP-RCD controller for bass adjustment. I use my ipad (Leechtunes music app) and steering wheel controls for volume control.


----------



## deputydog95

outroku said:


> I have not attempted phone calls through the amas. I specifically bought an ipad so that my phone did not have to pull double duty. Plus it makes a million times more convenient and safer locating a song on a tablet in front of you rather than a phone in your pocket or console.
> 
> Needed the 8to12 to do a center channel.
> 
> You'd have to contact Jacob at Orca to ask about SQ on a reg file through the amas vs. a HU/DSP.
> 
> The ipad will do up to 24-bit/44K files. You cannot load a file greater than those figures. The ipad does not downgrade a file.
> 
> I only use my DSP-RCD controller for bass adjustment. I use my ipad (Leechtunes music app) and steering wheel controls for volume control.


Great info! Thank you.

Is Jacob on here? Do you his user name?


----------



## rton20s

deputydog95 said:


> Great info! Thank you.
> 
> Is Jacob on here? Do you his user name?


----------



## outroku

deputydog95 said:


> Great info! Thank you.
> 
> Is Jacob on here? Do you his user name?


You're welcome. I couldn't have figured out how to do my setup without this forum.

He is on here. I don't recall his username at the moment but he's replied in this thread numerous times. Best way to contact him is email: [email protected]


----------



## Hammer1

outroku;4914394
The ipad will do up to 24-bit/44K files. You cannot load a file greater than those figures. The ipad does not downgrade a file.
I only use my DSP-RCD controller for bass adjustment. I use my ipad (Leechtunes music app) and steering wheel controls for volume control.[/QUOTE said:


> If you use a hi res music player like kaiser tone you can load 24/192 files on a iPad. You will need to use a Apple cck to a usb to coaxial converter like the x-usb to play hi res files as the amas will not


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Needed the 8to12 to do a center channel.
> 
> You'd have to contact Jacob at Orca to ask about SQ on a reg file through the amas vs. a HU/DSP.
> 
> The ipad will do up to 24-bit/44K files. You cannot load a file greater than those figures. The ipad does not downgrade a file.





deputydog95 said:


> Great info! Thank you.
> 
> Is Jacob on here? Do you his user name?


The 6to8 Aerospace will also do center.

iOS natively down samples to 16/44.1K

As for the "SQ" on files, i have no idea what this actually means. Let us look solely at the signal chain. Ff you use a HU, then you have the HU DAC, then back to digital in the processor, then the processor DAC. If you just use the AMAS, it's only the processor DAC. How many cooks in the kitchen do you really need?


----------



## outroku

deputydog95 said:


> I don't have any high res files at the moment. Just thousands of AAC and MP3 files. I do plan on grabbing better qualify files moving forward though.


I look at it this way. I spent thousands of dollars and hundreds on hours installing my system to make it sound the best possible. Why compromise with 320K files?

Took me 2 years to accumulate my extensive hi-res collection but well worth the 
time to scour the interwebz.


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> If you use a hi res music player like kaiser tone you can load 24/192 files on a iPad I have lots of them on mine


Hmmm...itunes won't allow files greater than 24/44 to be loaded, so how do you load 24/192?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Hmmm...itunes won't allow files greater than 24/44 to be loaded, so how do you load 24/192?


It's a different app, not iTunes.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> The 6to8 Aerospace will also do center.
> 
> iOS natively down samples to 16/44.1K


What??? So anything greater than 16/44.1 on an ipad is futile?? No way around this?

Yes I did have my 6to8 running a center channel initially (channel 5) but I couldn't use the RCD to adjust bass only (channels 5 & 6). Thus the 8to12 to the rescue.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> It's a different app, not iTunes.


So the files are loaded directly to the app on the ipad?

If so, what's the point if iOS natively down samples to 16/44.1K?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> What??? So anything greater than 16/44.1 on an ipad is futile?? No way around this?
> 
> Yes I did have my 6to8 running a center channel initially (channel 5) but I couldn't use the RCD to adjust bass only (channels 5 & 6). Thus the 8to12 to the rescue.


External audio interface using the lightning cable will get around this.

As for your situation with center, I didn't say 6to8, I said 6to8 Aerospace. I was also just referencing the fact that not only the 6to12 and 8to12 Aerospace, but also the 6to8 Aerospace will do center.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> External audio interface using the lightning cable will get around this.


What is an example of this interface? Brand name?

But if the files are loaded directly to the kaiser tone app on the ipad and can output 24/192, what's the point of the External audio interface? Or are both needed to get around the down-sampling?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> What is an example of this interface? Brand name?
> 
> But if the files are loaded directly to the kaiser tone app on the ipad and can output 24/192, what's the point of the External audio interface? Or are both needed to get around the down-sampling?


Both are needed to make the phone think it is connected to a DAC in which case the down sampling is bypassed because the additional app is technically just a storage app, and not a native player.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> Both are needed to make the phone think it is connected to a DAC in which case the down sampling is bypassed because the additional app is technically just a storage app, and not a native player.


What is an example of this interface? Brand name?


----------



## cobb2819

There aren't any car specific versions, and i'm not well enough versed in all the home stuff to know what will work. I tried using an HDMI audio de-embeder but only got 24/48k support. some have had better luck. The Pure i20 used to be a viable option for the dock connector.


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> There aren't any car specific versions, and i'm not well enough versed in all the home stuff to know what will work. I tried using an HDMI audio de-embeder but only got 24/48k support. some have had better luck. The Pure i20 used to be a viable option for the dock connector.


Sounds like way too much trouble.

What are the alternative tablets that do not down sample and will output 24/192 without an External audio interface?


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> Sounds like way too much trouble.
> 
> What are the alternative tablets that do not down sample and will output 24/192 without an External audio interface?


No Clue.


----------



## Hammer1

outroku said:


> Hmmm...itunes won't allow files greater than 24/44 to be loaded, so how do you load 24/192?


Save your hi res files to a folder. Connect iPad and open iTunes click on iPad then apps. Scroll to bottom then click on kaiser tunes you can then add the hi res files.


----------



## Swaglife81

outroku said:


> Sounds like way too much trouble.
> 
> What are the alternative tablets that do not down sample and will output 24/192 without an External audio interface?


Any of the Wolfson Audio DAC tablets/phones should output 24/192 studio master quality. The higher end Android in the 2013-2014 era started coming with the newer chips at 24/192. LG G2 and newer, Asus, Samsung Note 3 and newer. HTC also. Android 5.0 and higher non budget phones/tablets have the Wolfson chips in them. As far as specific models I don't have that info right now to type in but not an issue to find if that's what you are looking for. Seems an expensive dac in a phone is more popular than a tablet though. The general public usually uses a phone for audio in car or on person. That's why I say look towards phones. The high dollar newer tablets from Samsung, LG, HTC should all have the 24/192 internal DAC from Wolfson. 

Hope this helps, I loved Apple in 2008-2012 but not so much anymore. The mass doesn't know if they have high quality so they aren't throwing a studio master dac in a phone until they have too.


----------



## Hammer1

outroku said:


> What is an example of this interface? Brand name?


You are going to need a converter no matter what you use to get it into the 6to8 either optical or coaxial it does not have usb input. The smsl x-usb works great in the truck. You can get them for 55 bucks you will need a Apple cck 3 to connect to the converter and charge ipad


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> Save your hi res files to a folder. Connect iPad and open iTunes click on iPad then apps. Scroll to bottom then click on kaiser tunes you can then add the hi res files.


So then will an ipad output 24/192 using that app? Or does it down sample to 16/44.1 like Jacob said? If it down samples, what's the purpose of adding the 24/192 songs?

EDIT: I think you answered that in your last post.


----------



## outroku

Swaglife81 said:


> Any of the Wolfson Audio DAC tablets/phones should output 24/192 studio master quality. The higher end Android in the 2013-2014 era started coming with the newer chips at 24/192. LG G2 and newer, Asus, Samsung Note 3 and newer. HTC also. Android 5.0 and higher non budget phones/tablets have the Wolfson chips in them. As far as specific models I don't have that info right now to type in but not an issue to find if that's what you are looking for. Seems an expensive dac in a phone is more popular than a tablet though. The general public usually uses a phone for audio in car or on person. That's why I say look towards phones. The high dollar newer tablets from Samsung, LG, HTC should all have the 24/192 internal DAC from Wolfson.
> 
> Hope this helps, I loved Apple in 2008-2012 but not so much anymore. The mass doesn't know if they have high quality so they aren't throwing a studio master dac in a phone until they have too.


Thanks. I would be interested in moving from an ipad mini to another tablet around 7.9 inches long so that I can mount it in my CD Slot Tablet Holder. I don't want to use a phone. Obviously, I'm used to Apple devices, so yes, if you can, I'd love some model numbers to some of the inexpensive tablets that are similar to Apple devices in ease of functionality. Samsung is a fav brand of mine, so whatever model numbers you have of them would be great. Capacity of 128G is what I use.


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> You are going to need a converter no matter what you use to get it into the 6to8 either optical or coaxial it does not have usb input. The smsl x-usb works great in the truck. You can get them for 55 bucks you will need a Apple cck 3 to connect to the converter and charge ipad


So it appears the AMAS is not an option to connect to a converter?


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> The smsl x-usb works great in the truck. You can get them for 55 bucks you will need a Apple cck 3 to connect to the converter and charge ipad


I assume this is the smsl x-usb? https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-x-USB-Silver-DAC/dp/B017VXS212

I assume this is the Apple cck 3? https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MK0W2AM-Lightning-Camera-Adapter/dp/B01F7KJDIM


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> So it appears the AMAS is not an option to connect to a converter?


No, because the AMAS 2 is a bluetooth connection. If you use interface hardware, what would take the place of the AMAS 2.


----------



## Hammer1

outroku said:


> So then will an ipad output 24/192 using that app? Or does it down sample to 16/44.1 like Jacob said? If it down samples, what's the purpose of adding the 24/192 songs?
> 
> EDIT: I think you answered that in your last post.


No it does not down sample using the lightning port.


----------



## Hammer1

outroku said:


> I assume this is the smsl x-usb? https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-x-USB-Silver-DAC/dp/B017VXS212
> 
> I assume this is the Apple cck 3? https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MK0W2AM-Lightning-Camera-Adapter/dp/B01F7KJDIM


Yes too both


----------



## outroku

cobb2819 said:


> No, because the AMAS 2 is a bluetooth connection. If you use interface hardware, what would take the place of the AMAS 2.


I'm currently using an AMAS. If I switch to TOSLINK and install a DAC coming out of my ipad, will I gain any advantage playing 16/44.1 songs?


----------



## Hammer1

outroku said:


> I'm currently using an AMAS. If I switch to TOSLINK and install a DAC coming out of my ipad, will I gain any advantage playing 16/44.1 songs?


It is pretty hard to tell the difference. I would use the Amas. Now hi res music then yes toslink or coaxial


----------



## quality_sound

outroku said:


> So the files are loaded directly to the app on the ipad?
> 
> If so, what's the point if iOS natively down samples to 16/44.1K?


You still use iTunes, but not how you're used to. On the main page for device connected to iTunes, you scroll down on the window on the right that has the sync and backup options, and thinks like which apps are loaded. When you scroll down to the Apps portion click on the app in the left hand box. After you do that you drag and drop your files into the box to the right. It works this way for things like the app listed above, the Onkyo high def player, NE Player, or Infuse Pro 5, which lets you view pretty much any video file you want, including m4v, instead of being locked into iTunes movies and shows.


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> Bing and I are dealers, and Nick Wingate from ORCA is on here also.


How does a person go about getting their DSP repaired?
Sent you a PM yesterday, may have missed it, or tossed it, idk, but would like a price on a new 12 channel DSP. (Or get my old 4v and newer 8v repaired.)

I am using two DSP's so I can control the volume of the rear fill, and subs. (One sub run off of each DSP.)

Have they improved the RCA connections on the new models?
My JL Slash amps use lock nuts that hold the RCA's in place with no chance of pushing an RCA back, and cracking the solder joints. Thought that would be an awesome addition to the DSP.


----------



## FreeFly'r

Extended Power said:


> How does a person go about getting their DSP repaired?
> Sent you a PM yesterday, may have missed it, or tossed it, idk, but would like a price on a new 12 channel DSP. (Or get my old 4v and newer 8v repaired.)
> 
> I am using two DSP's so I can control the volume of the rear fill, and subs. (One sub run off of each DSP.)
> 
> Have they improved the RCA connections on the new models?
> My JL Slash amps use lock nuts that hold the RCA's in place with no chance of pushing an RCA back, and cracking the solder joints. Thought that would be an awesome addition to the DSP.


Try PM'ing Cobb2819 directly. He's customer support for ORCA.


----------



## Extended Power

FreeFly'r said:


> Try PM'ing Cobb2819 directly. He's customer support for ORCA.


I did yesterday. 
I know they are busy, and it may take a day or two, but thought I'd post on the thread as well.


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> How does a person go about getting their DSP repaired?
> Sent you a PM yesterday, may have missed it, or tossed it, idk, but would like a price on a new 12 channel DSP. (Or get my old 4v and newer 8v repaired.)
> 
> I am using two DSP's so I can control the volume of the rear fill, and subs. (One sub run off of each DSP.)
> 
> Have they improved the RCA connections on the new models?
> My JL Slash amps use lock nuts that hold the RCA's in place with no chance of pushing an RCA back, and cracking the solder joints. Thought that would be an awesome addition to the DSP.





FreeFly'r said:


> Try PM'ing Cobb2819 directly. He's customer support for ORCA.





Extended Power said:


> I did yesterday.
> I know they are busy, and it may take a day or two, but thought I'd post on the thread as well.


For sales in Canada, I will refer you to B&B Electronics, the Canadian Distributor for Mosconi. 

As for repairs, you can contact them as well and see if their service tech can help you out so that you are not shipping across international boarders and having to deal with customs and duties. 

B&B Electronics


----------



## Extended Power

cobb2819 said:


> For sales in Canada, I will refer you to B&B Electronics, the Canadian Distributor for Mosconi.
> 
> As for repairs, you can contact them as well and see if their service tech can help you out so that you are not shipping across international boarders and having to deal with customs and duties.
> 
> B&B Electronics


Thank you!
Called and left a message.

I ship, and receive items to/from Montana, as I live two hours away.
I find that any time it comes to vehicles, or stereo equipment, buying out of the USA is always cheaper.

If I was to purchase an 8to12 Aerospace, it would clean up my system, and would be easier to work on...I think...

What is the price on an Aerospace, and the Pro? (Shipped to 59484)
Pm if you prefer.

Thanks!


----------



## cobb2819

Extended Power said:


> Thank you!
> Called and left a message.
> 
> I ship, and receive items to/from Montana, as I live two hours away.
> I find that any time it comes to vehicles, or stereo equipment, buying out of the USA is always cheaper.
> 
> If I was to purchase an 8to12 Aerospace, it would clean up my system, and would be easier to work on...I think...
> 
> What is the price on an Aerospace, and the Pro? (Shipped to 59484)
> Pm if you prefer.
> 
> Thanks!


Please contact the closest dealer, Sound Pro in Bozeman @ 406-587-5118 for sales in Montana. MSRP on the 8to12 Aerospace processor is $1700, and the Pro is $1200.


----------



## Extended Power

Fella from B&B called me back.
They are a wholesale distributor, and don't sell to the general public.
He gave me the name of a place to call in Red Deer, but google does not even find them.
So I sent a message to Pro Sound in Bozeman, MT.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## Extended Power

Got a reply back from Pro Sound in Boseman, MT...they do not repair in-house either, and said to contact Mosconi to get an RA number, and ship it to them for repair.
Sounds like a winter project...


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> you will need a Apple cck 3 to connect to the converter and charge ipad


I bought an "open box" one off ebay listed as new. It is not recognized by my ipad. It will not turn on the smsl x-usb. I did hook the smsl x-usb to my PC and it turns on. On the converter itself, it says "Designed by Apple."

Did I fall for a knock-off?

EDIT: The ipad I'm using has ios 9.0.1.

I tried the converter + smsl x-usb on my ipad which has ios 9.3.2 and another ipad which has 9.3.3 and the smsl x-usb turns on.

Hmmmmmm.


----------



## cobb2819

outroku said:


> I bought an "open box" one off ebay listed as new. It is not recognized by my ipad. It will not turn on the smsl x-usb. I did hook the smsl x-usb to my PC and it turns on. On the converter itself, it says "Designed by Apple."
> 
> Did I fall for a knock-off?
> 
> EDIT: The ipad I'm using has ios 9.0.1.
> 
> I tried the converter + smsl x-usb on my ipad which has ios 9.3.2 and another ipad which has 9.3.3 and the smsl x-usb turns on.
> 
> Hmmmmmm.


Sorry to say, you're in the wrong thread for troubleshooting your accessories.


----------



## outroku

Hammer1 said:


> You are going to need a converter no matter what you use to get it into the 6to8 either optical or coaxial it does not have usb input. The smsl x-usb works great in the truck. You can get them for 55 bucks you will need a Apple cck 3 to connect to the converter and charge ipad


So an update. I bought a brand new Apple cck 3 off amazon and it would still not work with ios 9.0.2, but it would with ios 9.3.2 and 9.3.3. 

However, the smsl x-usb would sometimes not power on after cycling ignition. It would take cycling the ignition twice, which was a huge inconvenience. Also, having the Apple cck 3 hanging off the ipad was an eye sore. I ordered a CableJive DockXtender Lightning Cable so that I could hide the Apple cck 3. The CableJive extension did not allow music on the ipad to play longer than 5 seconds, so that idea was trashed.

Finally, I could not tell a difference between 16/44.1 (Amas) and 24/48 (DAC). Perhaps 24/192 I could have, but after the aforementioned inconveniences, I was done experimenting with the DAC.

I would be grateful for any light you can shed on this, whether I missed a step, etc.


----------



## outroku

Swaglife81 said:


> Any of the Wolfson Audio DAC tablets/phones should output 24/192 studio master quality. The higher end Android in the 2013-2014 era started coming with the newer chips at 24/192. LG G2 and newer, Asus, Samsung Note 3 and newer. HTC also. Android 5.0 and higher non budget phones/tablets have the Wolfson chips in them. As far as specific models I don't have that info right now to type in but not an issue to find if that's what you are looking for. Seems an expensive dac in a phone is more popular than a tablet though. The general public usually uses a phone for audio in car or on person. That's why I say look towards phones. The high dollar newer tablets from Samsung, LG, HTC should all have the 24/192 internal DAC from Wolfson.
> 
> Hope this helps, I loved Apple in 2008-2012 but not so much anymore. The mass doesn't know if they have high quality so they aren't throwing a studio master dac in a phone until they have too.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## ssmith100

Quick question for 6 to 8 users. Will the processor run tweeter, mid, midbass, rear and sub ?? I was thinking maybe the last to channels could run the rear and sub mono.

Thanks,

Shane


----------



## Hammer1

ssmith100 said:


> Quick question for 6 to 8 users. Will the processor run tweeter, mid, midbass, rear and sub ?? I was thinking maybe the last to channels could run the rear and sub mono.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Shane


I believe it has to be sent in for a firmware upgrade to separate the last two channels to be able to do what you want.


----------



## cobb2819

Hammer1 said:


> I believe it has to be sent in for a firmware upgrade to separate the last two channels to be able to do what you want.


This, or just get a 6to8 Aerospace.


----------



## Extended Power

Would you need to separate the last two channels?
Can you not combine the signals, 50% left, 50% right, and run the rear left and right speakers in mono, use say, channel 7, and then combine left and right signals again, and run channel 8 as the sub?

You would need to use a "Y" cable for each channel output on 7 & 8, but they would both be mono signal.

Or am I missing something?


----------



## diwakar

papasin said:


> If you are ever on the left coast, you should come take a listen to MrsPapasin's setup. She has multiple optical sources configured, all via a toslink switchbox (no analog signal in the mix).
> 
> 1. Alpine optical CD changer direct via toslink to DSP
> 2a. iPad mini via Apple hdmi adapter to hdmi to toslink audio extractor then into DSP
> 2b. iPad mini via pure i20 then toslink to DSP
> 3. AMAS-2 toslink into DSP
> 
> Sonically, I think you would be hard pressed to distinguish and might be fun to do a blind test and see if you or others can tell the difference.



Hi Papasin, I am in queue with bing to do the install. I am in bay area too. Could you have few minutes to guide me further in this process ?


----------



## slicksilver79

I have the 4to6SPDIF Mosconi DSP. My rears have components and are connected passively. Channel 3+4 is connected to rears. How do I go about disabling my rear tweeters in the DSP software?


----------



## tonny

slicksilver79 said:


> I have the 4to6SPDIF Mosconi DSP. My rears have components and are connected passively. Channel 3+4 is connected to rears. How do I go about disabling my rear tweeters in the DSP software?


Not.... As they are passive you can disconnect the tweeter from the filter and the sound is gone. Or use a loww pass filter in the software to just filter the top end out off the rear channels.


----------



## slicksilver79

tonny said:


> Not.... As they are passive you can disconnect the tweeter from the filter and the sound is gone. Or use a loww pass filter in the software to just filter the top end out off the rear channels.




I set a Low-Pass Filter = 2,000 Hz (12 db Butterworth ) for Channel 3+4 and there is still sound coming from the rear tweeters. 

As a last resort I might have to open the door and disconnect the tweeter but before that I’m trying to see if the software can do it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tonny

You can filter lower or with a higher slope like 24db, but there will be always a bit coming form the tweeter as the original filters is probably only a cap so a 6db filter... so even at 1khz the tweeter will do something...


----------



## EggyLoom

Hi, 

I have also a problem with Mosconi 6to8 V8 hiss. i have used it in my car about 4years for now....Last 2 years I had DIY 6channel class D amp + Hertz 1ch for sub. Now replaced all amps with digital sound 3x 400d.2 and 1x 800d.4 amps and kept the 6to8. Front speaker at the dash are Audison Voce AV 3.0 and AV 1.1. 

So the hiss..it starts when Mosconi is switched on, does not matter if input RCA-s are connect or not. Also muting the outputs in DSP, decreasing dB levels do not afect the hiss, its is still loud and there. The decreas in hiss comes after i disconnect the RCA-s between DSP and amps, so the (loud)hiss is coming from the DSP. Amprack has star grounding, hiss is not volume dependend (hence it is there regardless the RCA-s from the head unit is connected or not). The hiss is present in all channels, mostly audible in mid-s (400-5kHz and tweeters 5k +).

Any ideas what to check? I have reset the remote controls (or what button it was), nothing...the hiss is so loud that it is clearly audible on the backseats and even if you are not any way "connected" to car audio before, just random people from the streets can hear it from the back seats...


----------



## crackinhedz

Do you have USB connected? I get a hiss (alternator wine/ground loop?) through my usb, although its not loud as you are describing.


----------



## EggyLoom

crackinhedz said:


> Do you have USB connected? I get a hiss (alternator wine/ground loop?) through my usb, although its not loud as you are describing.


No USB/BT connected. Tried also the internal ground isolation jumper, no help.


----------



## tonny

To much gain in the amp's, there is a very little bit in the dsp, but with to much gain in the amp's it does get noticeable...


----------



## EggyLoom

tonny said:


> To much gain in the amp's, there is a very little bit in the dsp, but with to much gain in the amp's it does get noticeable...


 Gain in amps are almost minimal, maybe 1/10 over the minimal setting. It is not amps noise floor, the hiss is several times louder. The hiss is as loud or louder as decent volume level in background while talking in the car.


----------



## tonny

If you got that much floor noise it means the amp gain is to high... even if you can't turn it down further it is to much... What input volume can the amp handle?


----------



## EggyLoom

Without anything connected to amps there is not that kind of noise, several times lower, the noise floor of the amps itself. When I connect DSP output to amp input I get the extra noise that is several times louder than the amp noise floor. The same noise is even when all DSP outputs are muted and/or no input of DSP is connected to anywhere. DSP inputs are at minimal level, outputs (when not muted) could be -40dB, no difference in the noise. Amp gains (all 3 brand new units), are still very close to minimal level.


----------



## tonny

I know what you mean, just look at what your amp's can take for input voltage... The mosconi can put out 8v so you amp needs to be able to take that voltage to get the lowest noise levels!


----------



## tonny

Also a lott off class D amp's can pick up noise very easy... better get a real A/B amp.


----------



## EggyLoom

tonny said:


> I know what you mean, just look at what your amp's can take for input voltage... The mosconi can put out 8v so you amp needs to be able to take that voltage to get the lowest noise levels!


Input sensitivity of the amp is 0.5-6V. 6to8 get the 8V output only when output levels are pushed to +6dB.


----------



## tonny

EggyLoom said:


> Input sensitivity of the amp is 0.5-6V. 6to8 get the 8V output only when output levels are pushed to +6dB.


That would mean the gain should be all the way down and still the dsp can clip the amp's output...


----------



## EggyLoom

tonny said:


> That would mean the gain should be all the way down and still the dsp can clip the amp's output...


Okay, true, DSP is able to output more than amp can take in, In my case this is not a topic, because the hiss is even without any signal, muted outputs.


----------



## tonny

There is a very slight his in the early dsp's, but when the amp gain is to high it will amplifli that his so much that you can hear it...


----------



## EggyLoom

tonny said:


> There is a very slight his in the early dsp's, but when the amp gain is to high it will amplifli that his so much that you can hear it...


Mine is 8V version with latest FW, amps gains are in minimal. Bought a new sound codec chip for 6to8, it this does not help....well, probably will go to Helix DSP 2 anyways. Quite enough of this hiss, frequent BT link dropping, not really start-stop capable (this one actually have been rebuilt to cope with it already), etc...


----------



## 1nfinite

My 8to12 aerospace loses bluetooth connection since I upgraded the firmware.

Anyone else had this issue?

Could be my laptop win 10 as is new too.


----------



## Alfius

Hi to all, 
has someone of you tested the new MOSCONI Gladen GUI V2.51 on a Mosconi 6to 8 Aerospace ? A beta release is available on the gladen-audio website with same new options and algorithms not working until a new firmware. It is safe to install this beta version now and can you use the common options as usual ?
Thanks


----------



## vsaudi

Alfius said:


> Hi to all,
> 
> has someone of you tested the new MOSCONI Gladen GUI V2.51 on a Mosconi 6to 8 Aerospace ? A beta release is available on the gladen-audio website with same new options and algorithms not working until a new firmware. It is safe to install this beta version now and can you use the common options as usual ?
> 
> Thanks




I have used the beta version 2.51 on the 8-12 pro successfully. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Seedubchris

I just flashed my 8 to 12 aerospace with newest firmware. It shut down my outputs and now I have no sound . It was working great. Just wanted to adjust a few eq cuts and tried to use the Bluetooth connection which is spotty at best . It prompted me to update the firmware and now silence. I copied from dsp to cpu so I’m confused why I’m dead in the water after what should be a straight forward firmware update . Any help would be greatly appreciated .


----------



## Hammer1

Did you use bluetooth to do the firmware update or a wired connection. You might try doing a reset on the DSP. Or do the firmware update again.


----------



## Seedubchris

Does doing a reset on the dsp dump crossover settings etc?


System...
Sony GS-90 
Mosconi 8 to 12 aerospace
Mosconi a class on highs
Mosconi AS 200.4 on kids and highs 
Jl hd 1200 on subs (twin 8w7 anniversary woofers)
All ic are kimber Kable silver and silver streak.
All speaker cabling by Cardas (101 for lows and 11 gauge chassis wire for kids and highs.)
Linked analog and toslink . Currently using the analog out from GS-90.


----------



## Hammer1

Yes doing a reset clears all settings in the DSP. If you saved your tune to the PC you can just reload it.


----------



## Seedubchris

Now the damn dsp is stuck on even with the car off . I’m worried the amps are going to bake . My experience loading and operating this dsp with Microsoft surface Go has been abysmal. Screwed up my rig sumthin fierce.


----------



## Seedubchris

Tried the firmware update over usbwith wife’s new pc. No joy . Now it’s locked up . It pairs and says it’s connected but the software can’t communicate. It also won’t shut down after ignition is off. Guess it’s reset and reflash time. It’s packed in a tiny space in the trunk of my BRZ so getting to it is going to be a hassle . Any other ideas? Has any one gone to another dsp as a result of what I might call , “poorly implemented software to hardware ratio”? Seems awful clunky ....


----------



## vsaudi

Have you reached out to Nick Wingate at Orca? They handle all the Mosconi equipment in US. 
Pm me for his email. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hammer1

I second what vsaudi said. You can go to orca designs web site and get the number to call for some tech support. I have had 2 different Mosconi DSPs and never a problem.
Here is a link to Orca https://www.orcadesign.com/contact/


----------



## Seedubchris

I’m waiting for some time with my tuner . Long wait. Hopefully he has the right windows pc and knowledge to get this back up . I will stay the course for now . Damn thing is giving me fits ...


----------



## Petererc

6to8v8 stand-alone bt trigger?

I read this thread a while back and searched through it for an answer and didn't find it. so here goes. 

6to8v8 Amas/Spif and mini controller with 80prs H.U. The PRS is coming out for a tablet install. I would like to trigger the DSP via BT from the phone temporarily until the tablet is installed. 

I cannot get the dsp to trigger from Bluetooth. The literature shows that I can use the 6to8v8 remote turn on to feed the amps. The way it is connected now is the 80prs remote feeds dsp and amps. I cannot get the dsp to trigger or "turn on" without the power to the remote turn on from prs. If I turn the head unit off I get nothing from the dsp (no source). If I hook ignition to into dsp remote, then I have no remote out from dsp to amps. I did go into the software and allow triggering in the aux, tried multiple configs and struck out. I am sure I am overlooking something and hope some sense of this post can be made. 

thanks for your time


----------



## Petererc

think I got it. Run the ignition wire to the 12v supply to 6to8, dsp remote wire out to amps. The switch from BTE to SE?


----------



## Ratsalad

Any updates on the DSPs affected by the v2.51 firmware package? I am thinking of upgrading mine ...


----------



## Seedubchris

Ratsalad said:


> Any updates on the DSPs affected by the v2.51 firmware package? I am thinking of upgrading mine ...


DONT DO IT!!! I had to have a new unit sent out to replace the 8 to 12 I was stupid enough to update the firmware on. According to Orca designs “it’s not ready”
speaking of the new beta or any firmware updates .


----------



## Seedubchris

If any one knows how to reset the 8 to 12 aerospace could u please list the steps. I would love to know how to reload the firmware without pulling the unit and waiting for a new one . Thanks.


----------



## Ratsalad

Search found this. I've never had to reset my DSP so cannot vouch for accuracy!

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...on/368642-mosconi-6to8-dsp-factory-reset.html


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## Seedubchris

Given that the glitch has to do with the dsp talking to the software first this is not going to be possible. No way to transfer data from dsp to cpu(first step in the reset). I really wish the Germans could disable that pop up window urging firmware upgrade. It’s wrecking my rig .


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## Alfius

New Mosconi GUI V2.65 Public release is now available.

Found this note in the changelog
** PLEASE NOTE: 8to12AERO 6to8AERO 8to12Pro - Update to FW 4.01 (dISC) not possible by GUI, contact your dealer or distributor **

What does it means? Hardware changes are required if you want update to FW 4.01 ?


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## Hammer1

No I believe the firmware update has to be done with a disc and not downloaded from internet. Looks like dealers only get the disc. I have my dealer checking on it


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## Alfius

Hammer1 said:


> No I believe the firmware update has to be done with a disc and not downloaded from internet. Looks like dealers only get the disc. I have my dealer checking on it


Sorry, i did not mentioned it , with the FW 4.01 it's possible to use Mosconi new DSP feature "dISC" dynamic input signal conditioner. I'm also waiting for an answer from my dealer.


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## Hammer1

Just heard from my Dealer. Firmware is not ready yet but could be by next week. You have to send DSP to Mosconi for update.


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## killadawg

Great to hear, I called my dealer and they were clueless about the firmware. So it's a physical chip change? Or they don't want to risk consumers doing a flash themselves? I've got the 8to12 Aerospace and wanted to use the new software on my new system..


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## Hammer1

You can use the new software without the firmware update just some of the new function in the software will not work.


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