# Peerless SLS 6.5" driver ...



## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

I know the 8" driver is legendary, but has anybody used to 6.5" model? It models in a sealed box at 0.10 cubes. Please comment on your thoughts ...


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

I'm sure this has been covered a few times, by me at least twice however, it is a very capable driver if you cannot fit 8" speakers up front.

They play very well down to 50hz without issues IB'd in a door. The downside is that I would not use them above 1kHz, they suck horribly. Then again, Tymphany does list it as a subwoofer.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

The question is has anybody used it sealed since it models in such a small enclosure ...


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

I wouldn't bother with running it sealed, unless for some reason you must do that. I don't remember exactly if anyone has run it in that alignment, most have run it IB'd in doors.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

If I asked the question, there must be a reason ...


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> If I asked the question, there must be a reason ...



Then, maybe your question could be better answered if you actually gave us a hint at what you're trying to accomplish. 

And really, your original question was "Has anyone used the 6.5" model?" My answer was yes, so.....oh, and I gave you my thoughts.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

Funny you bring this thread up. I just bought two of them the other day, and I'm in the process of a kick panel build. .1 cubes is exactly the number I'm shooting for here (sealed off kick panel enclosures) and I'm bending over backwards on a ladder while standing on one foot to get .1 cubes out of a kick panel enclosure in my s10.

The build thread in my link leads to the current kick panel build (the very start of it anyway) and some pics of the equipment on page 4. Give me a week or so and I'll get back here with a review on the speakers. I'll also be including what size of enclosures I used, etc to achieve my results.

Hopefully you can wait a good week or so lol.

btw, I'm going 3-way "partially" active. If you care enough to want to know what "partially" active is, check out the last page of my build thread.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Then, maybe your question could be better answered if you actually gave us a hint at what you're trying to accomplish.
> 
> And really, your original question was "Has anyone used the 6.5" model?" My answer was yes, so.....oh, and I gave you my thoughts.


Maybe the mention of it going in 0.1 cubes sealed should have been sufficient to indicate that ...


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> Maybe the mention of it going in 0.1 cubes sealed should have been sufficient to indicate that ...


Models in .1 and going in .1 are different.

My DIYMA models in 1.0 tuned to 29hz, doesn't mean I'm going to use it that way.

Your original post was vague, you didn't mention once in there that you wanted to use it in .1 sealed. Yes, it models in that, but again my thoughts are I wouldn't bother using it that way.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

no offense, but you seem to be a bit all over the map.

maybe you should narrow your choices down and make a single thread involving the scan rev, seas w18, and this driver.

Quite honestly, if you're running 3-way (well, you're running that fostex so you're essentially going 3-way in regards to having a dedicated midbass) I think you should just stick with that dyn 172 you have, unless you have a serious issue with it. I know you mentioned a certain range was giving you issues. Have you really worked on tuning (especially phasing) to truly count that driver out as a possibility?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Sorry, I'm just in a grouchy mood lately, I have no clue how it would work in that situation, because I've never used it in such. 

Again, where are you going to be installing this?


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

The point is, I want my midbass OUT of my doors ....

MW172 isn't working in a kick ...

I tried to start a thread, asking for suggestions for midbass drivers for sealed apps, and got NOTHING in response ...


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

infiniti23 said:


> The point is, I want my midbass OUT of my doors



This is one of the main reasons I build my own kick panels. I never knew how many rattles and squeaks I had in this cheap GM door panel until they were all gone.




infiniti23 said:


> I tried to start a thread, asking for suggestions for midbass drivers for sealed apps, and got NOTHING in response ...


Please, no need to get all worked up here. No one HAS to respond to anything. Be appreciative that you have other people to talk to and discuss issues with. I know I'm relying on a lot of different people/opinions/facts in this current kick panel build.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

bass_lover1 said:


> Yes, it models in that, but again my thoughts are I wouldn't bother using it that way.





bass_lover1 said:


> I have no clue how it would work in that situation, because I've never used it in such.



Are you talking about these Peerless SLS drivers? What situation did you use them in and how well did they perform?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

B_Rich said:


> Are you talking about these Peerless SLS drivers? What situation did you use them in and how well did they perform?


Yes, the 6.5 specifically. I used the IB'd in my door for about 4 months. They were excellent as a dedicated MB playing 50hz-250hz. In a well treated door they can play to 40hz with no issues.


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## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

buy it 
try it
let us know how it goes.
don't like it? 
sell it

baddabing baddaboom
less annoying threads [edit] in the wrong section.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

bass_lover1 said:


> Yes, the 6.5 specifically. I used the IB'd in my door for about 4 months. They were excellent as a dedicated MB playing 50hz-250hz. In a well treated door they can play to 40hz with no issues.


Well I don't plan on going any lower than 80hz, but that's good to know.

Thanks.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

B_Rich said:


> Well I don't plan on going any lower than 80hz, but that's good to know.
> 
> Thanks.


Don't bother with the SLS6 if you don't plan on going lower than 80Hz. Many other options out there will do this well.

You may find this helpful:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...s6-vs-mpyre-65m-review-3-way-front-stage.html

Ge0


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

B_Rich said:


> Well I don't plan on going any lower than 80hz, but that's good to know.
> 
> Thanks.


Don't bother with the SLS6 if you don't plan on going lower than 80Hz. Many other options out there will do this well.

You may find this helpful:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...s6-vs-mpyre-65m-review-3-way-front-stage.html

Ge0


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

It was so important, he had to post it twice!


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Ge0 said:


> Don't bother with the SLS6 if you don't plan on going lower than 80Hz. Many other options out there will do this well.
> 
> You may find this helpful:
> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...s6-vs-mpyre-65m-review-3-way-front-stage.html
> ...


Nice review Ge0! Thoroughly enjoyed it ...

I like to be able to play my midbass down into the mid 40's and 50's if I want to. Question is the day is, how will that SLS respond in a sealed enclosure?

I guess I will have to test it myself to find out ...


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Hmmm, correct me if I am wrong, and read all the way ...

But there is a connection between CDT and Vifa, correct? Aren't many of the CDT drivers rebadged Vifas?

With that said, and the entire Tymphany connection, isn't that CDT M6+ midbass built off the SLS 6.5" driver?


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## VaVroom1 (Dec 2, 2005)

bass_lover1 said:


> It was so important, he had to post it twice!


haha thats diyma exclusive post whore feature.


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## VaVroom1 (Dec 2, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> I guess I will have to test it myself to find out ...


and a review please. i have a pair of SLS6.5 sitting in the room.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> Question is the day is, how will that SLS respond in a sealed enclosure? I guess I will have to test it myself to find out ...


 I think you missed that part about SLS drivers all being labeled as subwoofers...from the 6 1/2" size up to the 12". So just run it through a box program like any other subwoofer. If you look on the MADISOUND sale page for the driver, they list a Vented box of 0.4 cubic feet with a 2" diameter vent by 7" long, for an F3 of 44Hz. for the driver. No way that will work for the kicks.

So, just figure out how much space you have for the kicks and run the driver in your favorite box program and see how the response looks. From there remember that you vehicle is going to have its effect on the midbass region.... what ever that is.... you know your own vehicles characteristics better than us so...take that into consideration.

The answers do not lie in someone else telling you things will or not work, you have a better idea of the environment these are playing in and what you are actually working with so.... figure it out and go for it. These are kick ass drivers for under $100...how the hell can one go wrong with trying them out? And *YES*...YOU WILL HAVE TO TEST THEM YOURSELF TO FIND OUT...regardless of what answers get posted here. This is DIYMA forum.  

Peace and no worries,
Walt


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

WLDock said:


> I think you missed that part about SLS drivers all being labeled as subwoofers...from the 6 1/2" size up to the 12". So just run it through a box program like any other subwoofer. If you look on the MADISOUND sale page for the driver, the list a Vented box of 0.4 cubic feet with a 2" diameter vent by 7" long, for an F3 of 44Hz. for the driver. No way that will work for the kicks.
> 
> So, just figure out how much space you have for the kicks and run the driver in your favorite box program and see how the response looks. From there remember that you vehicle is going to have its effect on the midbass region.... what ever that is.... you know your own vehicles characteristics better than us so...take that into consideration.
> 
> ...


I understand it's a "subwoofer" ...

But it's a very low Vas, very low QTS driver, it screams small sealed box ...

This is why I brought up the comparison to the CDT M6+, which is a superb small sealed box performer, and likely designed by Tymphany ...

It models at 0.10 cubes. That's awfully small, but it matches those parameters ....


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

Well, the comparison that I heard about the regular M6 vs. the SLS was...The M6 has more punch but the SLS is more "real" and controlled in its presentation. Don't know about the M6+ ...would like to try their products but don't want to pay for them.

If I manage to retain some parts of my system and can't get the 8" SLS drivers in the kicks...I might try the SLS 6.5 myself. I came to the conclusion that it might be better to work with that area than fuss with my sh_ty as_ doors for midbass.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

You know, I dont normally do this, but you come off sounding like a real *******. Someone tries to help you and you come back with cocky jack ass statements. If you had asked a clear, detailed and concise question from the beginning, you would have gotten a better answer. 



infiniti23 said:


> I know the 8" driver is legendary, but has anybody used to 6.5" model? It models in a sealed box at 0.10 cubes. Please comment on your thoughts ...





infiniti23 said:


> The question is has anybody used it sealed since it models in such a small enclosure ...


No, clearly the question was "HAS ANYBODY USED IT? Comment on your thoughts..."



infiniti23 said:


> If I asked the question, there must be a reason ...






infiniti23 said:


> Maybe the mention of it going in 0.1 cubes sealed should have been sufficient to indicate that ...



Again, you simply said "it models in 0.1"... BE MORE SPECIFIC ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE ASKING.





infiniti23 said:


> The point is, I want my midbass OUT of my doors ....
> 
> MW172 isn't working in a kick ...
> 
> I tried to start a thread, asking for suggestions for midbass drivers for sealed apps, and got NOTHING in response ...


Ahhh, now were getting somewhere. Some details instead of mush and backhanded responses. Im also 100% sure that you werent getting responses because you failed to search properly. There are MANY threads about midbass suggestions, and comparisons. Dont come off like a prick because you cant be bothered with taking the time to search and/or ask a detailed question, especially when a guy is trying to take the time to help you.


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

captainobvious said:


> You know, I dont normally do this, but you come off sounding like a real *******. Someone tries to help you and you come back with cocky jack ass statements. If you had asked a clear, detailed and concise question from the beginning, you would have gotten a better answer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Tell us how you really feel.


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

bassfromspace said:


> Tell us how you really feel.


:laugh:

I just have little patience for people who ask for help and then act like they are doing YOU the favor when it is the other way around.


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

I understand.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

DIYMA for the win!


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

infiniti23 said:


> I like to be able to play my midbass down into the mid 40's and 50's if I want to. Question is the day is, how will that SLS respond in a sealed enclosure?


You mean you're going to try and make a pair of 6.5" woofers play 40hz? With authority? I think you need to come to terms with what "midbass" is. 

My SLS 8's respond well in my sealed enclosure (my car). lol... And like Ge0 said, they're no bueno below 80 hz. Hell I don't use mine below 80hz. They're nice drivers...esp for the dolla, but they don't possess magical powers (like Hybrid Audio...what, who said that??!? hehe :surprised..


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

I just modeled these in your .1 cubes sealed and it starts dropping at 150hz, has an F3 of about 85 hz and is 12 dB down at 40 hz. Not good. You need a different strategy, bro.


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## B_Rich (Mar 29, 2009)

You want your midbass to play down to 40hz? Do you not have a sub?

Here is the chart if anyone is interested.

The different enclosures too (orange = .06 cubes, and yellow = roughly .1 cubes)


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

FoxPro5 said:


> I just modeled these in your .1 cubes sealed and it starts dropping at 150hz, has an F3 of about 85 hz and is 12 dB down at 40 hz. Not good. You need a different strategy, bro.


40 hz maybe for some light SQ listening, I'm played my MW172 down to 31 hz successfully ...

That's great and dandy that you took the time to model the frequency response. However, I don't plan on using the driver in wide-open ancheoic space as it was modeled. This type of modeling is extremely overrated in my book. The only reason I ever model woofers and subwoofers is to get in the ballpark, size wise. Other than that, they tell very little about how they perform in the automotive environement ....

Most subwoofers would show a curve just like those that would modeled but with a lower F3 i.e.. natural driver rolloff. It certainly doesn't play like that in a car. There is plenty of cabin gain in 40-50 hz range ...

I threw that Dyn MW182 in a 0.3 cubic foot sealed box and threw it in the kick panel. It had plenty of output at 45 hz with +3 db boost in the PXA ...

My IDMAX 10's are IB in my G35. I cut them about -6 db at 40 hz ....


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

B_Rich said:


> You want your midbass to play down to 40hz? Do you not have a sub?
> 
> Here is the chart if anyone is interested.
> 
> The different enclosures too (orange = .06 cubes, and yellow = roughly .1 cubes)



Yes, I have a sub, and it's almost always crossed over at 50 or 56 hz on my PXA ...

I really don't see any need in ever playing a subwoofer much higher than that ....


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

When I say they can play to 40hz with ease, I mean they can play it w/o sounding distorted or muddy, but are they going to match the output of a pair of 10" subwoofers? Very unlikely. You had a pair of 8" midbass in your kicks and you still had to boost up the 40hz region, you're really going to have to boost these if you think they'll match up any better than your previous drivers.

Again, they're good drivers, but I think you're expecting way too much out of your midbass drivers. If you want _good_ output from 50hz-250 hz, go with a true subwoofer, since it seems that's the kind of output you really want.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> When I say they can play to 40hz with ease, I mean they can play it w/o sounding distorted or muddy, but are they going to match the output of a pair of 10" subwoofers? Very unlikely. You had a pair of 8" midbass in your kicks and you still had to boost up the 40hz region, you're really going to have to boost these if you think they'll match up any better than your previous drivers.
> 
> Again, they're good drivers, but I think you're expecting way too much out of your midbass drivers. If you want _good_ output from 50hz-250 hz, go with a true subwoofer, since it seems that's the kind of output you really want.



My midbass, when set for daily listening, are set at 56 hz / 4th order ...

Again, the 40 hz thing was just a luxury. If they can keep up at 55-60 hz in the kick panels, I would be golden ...

I never ran the 8" full time in the kicks, just an experiment ...

The MW172 and 182 will play down to 40 with authority in the door, no problem. The MW172 are currently in the door, but at higher SPL, I got a crapload of resonance from 65-80 hz ....

No midbass driver is going to be able to keep up with my 2 IDMAX 10's if I push them hard, I don't expect them to. That's alot of SPL at high levels ....


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

FoxPro5 said:


> You mean you're going to try and make a pair of 6.5" woofers play 40hz? With authority? I think you need to come to terms with what "midbass" is.
> 
> My SLS 8's respond well in my sealed enclosure (my car). lol... And like Ge0 said, they're no bueno below 80 hz. Hell I don't use mine below 80hz. They're nice drivers...esp for the dolla, but they don't possess magical powers (like Hybrid Audio...what, who said that??!? hehe :surprised..


I know what midbass is. Doesn't mean my midbass SHOULDN'T be able to play down into the 40's. Hell, the SLS drivers are technically subwoofers anyway ...

The SLS should easily perform well way below 80 hz, and do it well. Crossing over midbass at 80 hz is completely unrealistic in my world ...

I've never heard anybody say the SLS drivers, any of them, would not perform well below 80 hz. I would think the SLS 5.25" driver would do that fairly easily ....


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

captainobvious said:


> :laugh:
> 
> I just have little patience for people who ask for help and then act like they are doing YOU the favor when it is the other way around.


Grin... 

Ge0


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> My midbass, when set for daily listening, are set at 56 hz / 4th order ...
> 
> Again, the 40 hz thing was just a luxury. If they can keep up at 55-60 hz in the kick panels, I would be golden ...
> 
> ...



I think you answered your own question then. If you already know off the bat that nothing will keep up, why would you change drivers then? Are the 6.5s capable of some output? Yes, they are, but they will never be able to keep up with even a modest sub stage. 

I guess I don't understand why someone would even desire a midbass to play down to 40-50hz when a well implemented sub stage is going to over power it, every single time. Also, at the same rate the sub WILL have more output even up to 60, 70 and most times even 100hz, than even your common midbass drivers (10" subs as midbass don't count). 

They are capable drivers, but my guess is even if you experiment you'll end up unhappy, then curse us for giving you bad advice.


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

FoxPro5 said:


> You mean you're going to try and make a pair of 6.5" woofers play 40hz? With authority? I think you need to come to terms with what "midbass" is.
> 
> My SLS 8's respond well in my sealed enclosure (my car). lol... And like Ge0 said, they're no bueno below 80 hz. Hell I don't use mine below 80hz. They're nice drivers...esp for the dolla, but they don't possess magical powers (like Hybrid Audio...what, who said that??!? hehe :surprised..


I hate to correct a master, err, bater (you know I jest). But, I said, if he was simply looking for a midbass that would play down to 80 hurtz with authority then there are many more options than the Peerless. I did not say they were no good blow 80 Hurtz. Heck, I have mine playing down to 60Hz / 24db per octave with ballz and not a fuss. Anything lower is better off for sub duty. I my specific case, I needed a midbass to do this. Sub has a huge null at 60 that I can't correct due to vehicle dimensions and fhisics.

Does that mean that I am well hung or under hung?

Ge0


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

I'm not going to enter this ***** session. All I can say is you can model this one to death and be wrong. These drivers are cheap enough. Just try the fuggin things for god sakes! You won't be disappointed.

If you think they will work well enough for you at 0.1cubes then they should play just as low with a higher cabinet volume.

Oh, they may distort a little when I am blairing Niller-Ice cruising through the grade school parking lot looking for a date. So what. You don't percieve distortion at low frequencies as much as you do higher frequencies. Hell, I was part of an ABX experiment where I (and many others) could not tell 5% distotion vs. 10% distortion at 60Hz. It just doesn't matter. Try them and judge for yourself.

Geesh...

Ge0


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## Ge0 (Jul 23, 2007)

bass_lover1 said:


> It was so important, he had to post it twice!


Gimme a break sizzle chest. My computer is living on a thread. It's a virus infected POS (presumably infected by frequent visits to free animal pron sites) that has allzhymers. Either that or I was drunk and did not realize I posted twice. Can't blame myself. Must be the puter .

Ge0


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> I think you answered your own question then. If you already know off the bat that nothing will keep up, why would you change drivers then? Are the 6.5s capable of some output? Yes, they are, but they will never be able to keep up with even a modest sub stage.
> 
> I guess I don't understand why someone would even desire a midbass to play down to 40-50hz when a well implemented sub stage is going to over power it, every single time. Also, at the same rate the sub WILL have more output even up to 60, 70 and most times even 100hz, than even your common midbass drivers (10" subs as midbass don't count).
> 
> They are capable drivers, but my guess is even if you experiment you'll end up unhappy, then curse us for giving you bad advice.


You've never listened to an SQ system that had midbass drivers playing into the 40's and 50's?

Please, PLEASE, show me a great SQ system that has a sub playing above 80 hz ....

KEEP UP is subjective. As I clearly stated (keyword: PUSH THEM HARD), I'm not looking for midbass to play 130 dB, but they should be able to play 100-105 and blend well ...

Why switch drivers? Again, I made it clear I have terrible resonance at 65-80 hz in the door. And no, I cannot fix it ....

Who the hell drives around listening to a system for long periods of time above 100-105 dB anyway?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Well since SQ is subjective then I would have to say that yes I have heard a system with midbass playing down in to the 40s and 50s. It was my own and I realized that it was a complete waste of time when a subwoofer can clearly play that range with much more authority. At the same time when you have resonance from 50-80hz I don't because my midbass are cut at 80hz. The beautiy of a subwoofer that can play in the upper frequencies is less door rattle. I will gladly take that any day of the week than have to tame rattles or build kicks because I can't kill the rattles.

The beauty of DIY is that if you aren't happy you get to try again. Some one will buy the sls if you aren't happy. I sold mine in about 25 minutes when I listed them. Though I think that was partially because madisound was OOS.


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

infiniti23 said:


> You've never listened to an SQ system that had midbass drivers playing into the 40's and 50's?
> 
> Please, PLEASE, show me a great SQ system that has a sub playing above 80 hz ....
> 
> ...


Is your car on lease? Are you unable to dampen the doors? I think dampening the doors will significantly help your issues.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Megalomaniac said:


> Is your car on lease? Are you unable to dampen the doors? I think dampening the doors will significantly help your issues.


The doors are heavily dampened ....


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

infiniti23 said:


> Please, PLEASE, show me a great SQ system that has a sub playing above 80 hz ....


I can has eSSQuu challenge?

Your poasts r teh confuzing. You say you want a low playing MB for the "SQ" and just if you feel like it. Then you say your doors are "heavly dampened" (maybe they're too wet? ) but resonate so badly that they are beyond repair. 

Maybe you need a different hobby? Join Tspence on his beet farm?


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## TREETOP (Feb 11, 2009)

infiniti23 said:


> ...Who the hell drives around listening to a system for long periods of time above 100-105 dB anyway?


:curtain:


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

infiniti23 said:


> The doors are heavily dampened ....


What have you done to the doors? Can you give specifics please. When dampening your doors the goal is to bring the resonance down enough to where it shouldnt be audible. Maybe your doors arent "heavily dampened" enough. You need to find out where it is resonating bad and tackle that. Different speakers cannot make that resonance go away magically.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

I'd love to see this guy's "baffle" and "heavy" damping job. ['dampining' is making things wet - sorry hardcore pet peeve there].

If you take a panel and go layer after layer of CLD mat, for ex, you can actually make things worse as the inner skin/driver mounting surface is not open, it's closed-terminated to the rest of the door. And where the panel terminates is right where it connects with the trim panel (all along the perimeter of the door). This essentially throws this silly notion of "mass loading" right out the window and takes the "more is better" and "you can never have too much" mantras with as well.


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

FoxPro5 said:


> I'd love to see this guy's "baffle" and "heavy" damping job. ['dampining' is making things wet - sorry hardcore pet peeve there].
> 
> If you take a panel and go layer after layer of CLD mat, for ex, you can actually make things worse as the inner skin/driver mounting surface is not open, it's closed-terminated to the rest of the door. And where the panel terminates is right where it connects with the trim panel (all along the perimeter of the door). This essentially throws this silly notion of "mass loading" right out the window and takes the "more is better" and "you can never have too much" mantras with as well.



well, if his panel is resonating he either missed a spot or did something wrong.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

FoxPro5 said:


> I can has eSSQuu challenge?
> 
> Your poasts r teh confuzing. You say you want a low playing MB for the "SQ" and just if you feel like it. Then you say your doors are "heavly dampened" (maybe they're too wet? ) but resonate so badly that they are beyond repair.
> 
> Maybe you need a different hobby? Join Tspence on his beet farm?



Is the concept of having a seperate "SQ" setup and a daily listening setup impossible for you to comprehend?

There are inherent issues with the first generation G35 doors that cannot be fixed with damplifier and foam. At mid-high to high volumes, they resonate pretty badly, and I don't like it ...

I'm perfectly fine in this hobby. Seems maybe though you might need your brought back down to earth. I'm sure it'll happen in due time ...


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Megalomaniac said:


> well, if his panel is resonating he either missed a spot or did something wrong.


Yep, you're right, I screwed up with I applied my Damplifier. NOBODY runs an driver IB in the door and doesn't have resonance at high volume, I don't care how well it is done ...

Unless of course you are cutting your midbass drivers at 80 hz ...


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> Yep, you're right, I screwed up with I applied my Damplifier. NOBODY runs an driver IB in the door and doesn't have resonance at high volume, I don't care how well it is done ...
> 
> Unless of course you are cutting your midbass drivers at 80 hz ...


Very mature. We've tried helping you, but it seems you started this thread knowing what you wanted to do, you just wanted someone else to stroke your ego and tell you it was the right thing. 

The funny part is, you can mock my idea of "proper" but you have issues with your install that either A) you're really too lazy to work out, and B) building kick panels is your idea of a solution. That's cool really, but I'm sitting here with no door resonances, and I don't have to go through the hassle of kick panels to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

If you were so dead set on installing the 6.5s in kicks, you should have just done it in the first place, then came back with your results. This is still DIY mobile audio, right?


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## Megalomaniac (Feb 12, 2007)

infiniti23 said:


> Yep, you're right, I screwed up with I applied my Damplifier. NOBODY runs an driver IB in the door and doesn't have resonance at high volume, I don't care how well it is done ...
> 
> Unless of course you are cutting your midbass drivers at 80 hz ...


okay _you_ have answered all of _your own_ questions. I really dont understand why there is soo much sand in your vagina. You are acting too cocky, especially when you are asking for help. I think you should leave this forum and not return unless you change your attitude.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Megalomaniac said:


> okay _you_ have answered all of _your own_ questions. I really dont understand why there is soo much sand in your vagina. You are acting too cocky, especially when you are asking for help. I think you should leave this forum and not return unless you change your attitude.


Wow, and you call me cocky. You're kidding right?

Some of you guys may not be much, but you're certainly comical ....


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Very mature. We've tried helping you, but it seems you started this thread knowing what you wanted to do, you just wanted someone else to stroke your ego and tell you it was the right thing.
> 
> The funny part is, you can mock my idea of "proper" but you have issues with your install that either A) you're really too lazy to work out, and B) building kick panels is your idea of a solution. That's cool really, but I'm sitting here with no door resonances, and I don't have to go through the hassle of kick panels to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
> 
> If you were so dead set on installing the 6.5s in kicks, you should have just done it in the first place, then came back with your results. This is still DIY mobile audio, right?


Nope, I was just trying to have conversation and discussion. That apparently is seemingly impossible here, for reasons that I'd rather not state ....


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## James Bang (Jul 25, 2007)

psh, door rattling with some measly little SLS 6"s? come on!


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> Nope, I was just trying to have conversation and discussion. That apparently is seemingly impossible here, for reasons that I'd rather not state ....



fine then:

*infiniti23*:I'm looking to do midbass in sealed kicks. I know the SLS 8 is highly regarded as an excellent MB, but does anyone have experience with the SLS 6.5s in a sealed kick?

*bass_lover1*:I've used the 6.5 before, but never sealed, just IB'd in my door. It is a good choice for MB if you can't fit the larger sizes. I don't know how it will play in a sealed environment, but it is a very nice driver. Build the kicks, and if they don't work out, you'll have no issue reselling them and trying something different.

Bam, problem solved.


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## Billy Mays (May 11, 2009)

**** this guy. that's twice now that he's posed a question and when given advice comes back saying **** about how nothing will ever fix the problem. did it with 2 tens over powering mid bass and then did it again with the IB door ****. 

YOU CAN'T HELP THIS GUY DIYMA. HE KNOWS EVERYTHING ALREADY. YOU THOUGHT YOU HAD AN IDEA BUT ACTUALLY YOU'RE ALREADY WRONG CAUSE INFINITY KNOWS MORE THAN YOU.


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

LMAO!!

I just noticed the thread tags at the bottom of the page.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Billy Mays said:


> **** this guy. that's twice now that he's posed a question and when given advice comes back saying **** about how nothing will ever fix the problem. did it with 2 tens over powering mid bass and then did it again with the IB door ****.
> 
> YOU CAN'T HELP THIS GUY DIYMA. HE KNOWS EVERYTHING ALREADY. YOU THOUGHT YOU HAD AN IDEA BUT ACTUALLY YOU'RE ALREADY WRONG CAUSE INFINITY KNOWS MORE THAN YOU.



Aren't you dead? And who the **** is Infinity?

Wow, you guys are some sensitive little nerds, to be getting riled up like that behind your computer screen. Amazing how much testosterone a keyboard can give you ....


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## Pseudonym (Apr 17, 2006)

Ha! Douchecanoe is my favorite.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

infiniti23 said:


> Unless of course you are cutting your midbass drivers at 80 hz ...


You mean so the "SQ" of the "SQ if I want", "SPL if i want it more" can go down to sub-bass? 

I'm continually amazed how you keep putting up obstructions for yourself to make your situation impossible all the wile still answering your own questions and rolling your eyes at us. What's next, gonna tell us how little gnomes become active during midsubbass testing and make all your SQLPLSQS dreams come true?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

infiniti23 said:


> Aren't you dead? And who the **** is Infinity?
> 
> Wow, you guys are some sensitive little nerds, to be getting riled up like that behind your computer screen. Amazing how much testosterone a keyboard can give you ....


Bwahahahahaahah. Some of us actually tried to help you out but again since what we were saying didn't agree with what you already predetermined to be right you get upset. 

Enjoy your douchecanoe


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Bwahahahahaahah. Some of us actually tried to help you out but again since what we were saying didn't agree with what you already predetermined to be right you get upset.
> 
> Enjoy your douchecanoe


Nah, I wouldn't want to steal your mother's bathtub ....

What could be even more comical than anything is the fact that you think I am upset over words on a computer screen ...

:2thumbsup: Good analysis bucko!


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

I have the SLS8's in my doors and there is noticeable audible resonance. Perhaps you just need to approach the door damping in a different manner. Can you post pics of the what you've done to the doors. Also, what specifically about your Inifiniti poses such a big problem in this area (you mentioned something about the design of the doors)?

As mentioned, the SLS are very good midbass drivers. I dont know that anyone here has tried them sealed as most use them IB in the doors. It wouldnt hurt to just pick up a pair and test them out. You could build a small test enclosure pretty easily and see where you stand before doing the work of building custom kicks. If they model well at 0.1, give it a shot.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> I have the SLS8's in my doors and there is noticeable audible resonance. Perhaps you just need to approach the door damping in a different manner. Can you post pics of the what you've done to the doors. Also, what specifically about your Inifiniti poses such a big problem in this area (you mentioned something about the design of the doors)?
> 
> As mentioned, the SLS are very good midbass drivers. I dont know that anyone here has tried them sealed as most use them IB in the doors. It wouldnt hurt to just pick up a pair and test them out. You could build a small test enclosure pretty easily and see where you stand before doing the work of building custom kicks. If they model well at 0.1, give it a shot.


There is a problem with the inner assembly of the door handle. Can't get to it. Unfortunately, it is higher, closer to the ear, so it's noticable ....

Second issue is something I mentioned awhile back. The stock grille is bogus. It's small, about 5 inches in diameter, and has small holes. Some of the frequency problems may be standing waves getting trapped between the sheet metal and the door card. I need to find a way to create a direct path from the driver into the cabin, instead of having it an inch behind that grill ...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Does the door handle assembly mount to the metal door panel or the plastic door card? How about the midbasses...Are they mounted to the metal door or the door card? Are you willing to cut the factory grill circle out and replace with a more transparent (acoustically) material?


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## bassfromspace (Jun 28, 2016)

Douchecanoe sounds like a middle eastern pastry.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Does the door handle assembly mount to the metal door panel or the plastic door card? How about the midbasses...Are they mounted to the metal door or the door card? Are you willing to cut the factory grill circle out and replace with a more transparent (acoustically) material?


I am speaking of the metal door handle assembly that is attached to the outer sheet metal. I am trying to find a way to pop the handle cover off on the outside of the vehicle but I cannot find info how to do so ...

Midbasses are mounted on 3/4" baffle on the metal door car. Yes, I am willing to cut that grille out. I have been thinking about that this weekend. I think that may reduce the standing waves, which might help tame the door card/clip rattles which are plagueing me ....


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

SQ cars that probably have a high XO point on the subs and midbass....

Steve Head's new Civic install with the JBL2118s and Oz 10s.
Mark Eldrige's Nascar with the 12W6v2s in the kicks.
Dr. Doug Winker's BMW had the midbasses XOed at 90 hertz


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Can you get to the handle from the back side by removing the inner door skin?


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Can you get to the handle from the back side by removing the inner door skin?


Barely, I got some damplifier on it, what I really need to do is get the plastic cover on the outside of the door off, and get some foam in there. Still trying to figure it out ...

The biggest obstacle with these cars is getting in the inner door skin cover off. You have to take the window out to get it off, because they bolted the window rails to the skin. It's quite a job, or I'd get right back in there and work on it. The car is unusable when I am working on this, only have two cars, and the other one is being used when i need to get to work ...


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Understood. It will probably be a bit of a process, but if it you're able to use the doors vs doing kicks, it should save you some time, money, leg space, etc. 

Have you tried any of the Infiiniti GS forums for advice on removing the door handle? Perhaps someone can post the Haynes service manual page with the assembly/parts photos to guide you. Try here http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeromain?id=166
They have a big technical section with plenty of how to's.


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## FoxPro5 (Feb 14, 2006)

thehatedguy said:


> SQ cars that probably have a high XO point on the subs and midbass....
> 
> Steve Head's new Civic install with the JBL2118s and Oz 10s.


Thought he told me it was 70-80 hz range. Anyway, he has them set up a lot better so our friend will probably come up with some excuse again. Great thread, though...top 50 of the week for sure....


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

The sad part of all of this is that some people had to resort to name calling, before you would even offer up any type of information.

Although it has been pretty funny.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

captainobvious said:


> Understood. It will probably be a bit of a process, but if it you're able to use the doors vs doing kicks, it should save you some time, money, leg space, etc.
> 
> Have you tried any of the Infiiniti GS forums for advice on removing the door handle? Perhaps someone can post the Haynes service manual page with the assembly/parts photos to guide you. Try here Main: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub
> They have a big technical section with plenty of how to's.


I have a copy of the Infiniti service manual, and what a P.O.S. at times. Somethings, it leads you through step by step ...

Other things, like getting this handle cover off, forget about it, it isn't even in there ...

Maybe my mechanic can help ....


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## ehiunno (Feb 26, 2008)

Man this thread has been entertaining.

I have used the SLS6.5 in small sealed (.2 cubes) and IB apps.
In small sealed it sounded fine, but couldn't play all that much below 70 before seriously losing output. In IB, there was noticeably more bottom end, and I preferred it that way to small sealed. _SHOCK OF THE YEAR_

I have no idea what this implies for you, since I really can't tell what you are trying to do, but hopefully that helps...?


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)

Careful, that's not what he wanted to hear so he might insult your mother.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

bass_lover1 said:


> Careful, that's not what he wanted to hear so he might insult your mother.


I was just going by what I had heard :gossip:


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## bass_lover1 (Dec 10, 2005)




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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

Anybody know if that 8.5 mm Xmax on that Peerless 8" is one-way or peak to peak?


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

It may be worth the $20 or so bucks to pick up the Haynes manual for your car. Unless of course your mechanic/body shop guy is willing to show you how to take it off for free.

Sounds like door mounted IB is the way to go with these from the post above. Time to get that handle tackled.


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## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

There may not be a Hayes manual for that car, there isn't one for the IS300.

Look at MiloX's install thread. Dyn 8s in the doors IB and NO rattles to them. I've heard the car on a couple of occasions when he was competing and it jammed.

I think Steve is in the 70-80 range. Dr. Doug's BMW was at 90 hertz 6 dB slopes. I think Mark said the 4 Runner was in the same range as Steve and Doug's cars.


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## infiniti23 (Dec 4, 2008)

thehatedguy said:


> There may not be a Hayes manual for that car, there isn't one for the IS300.
> 
> Look at MiloX's install thread. Dyn 8s in the doors IB and NO rattles to them. I've heard the car on a couple of occasions when he was competing and it jammed.
> 
> I think Steve is in the 70-80 range. Dr. Doug's BMW was at 90 hertz 6 dB slopes. I think Mark said the 4 Runner was in the same range as Steve and Doug's cars.


I have the factory service manual. I figured out how to remove the handle last night ...

Correct me if I am wrong, but Milo's is a second generation G35. It has different door handle than mine. The escutcheon can be dissassembled from the outside. Unfortunately for me, I have to remove the entire handle from the inside of the door skin, but it's doable. The handle and escutcheon are all one piece. I should be able to get some foam strips between the handle and the door to stop the rattles ....


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## jfrosty42 (Jul 4, 2009)

First of all, sorry to bring up such an old post.

Anyway, I was looking for info on the SLS6, came upon this thread, and got more than I bargained for. Needless to say I read through the entire thing 

Someone turn this script into a broadway musical already.


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