# Honda Civic SI Install



## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

2000 Honda Civic Si, 

I actually started this install last week, install is about half done so far.
Main components:
Head Unit: p7300
Front: SPZ60 running on JL 300/4 bridged 
Rear: Alpine 6x9's SPR-629a running of head
Subs: 2 JL 12W3's running on JL 500/1 
1 Farad cap
62.5 RaaMmate


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

I have a few requirements I'm trying to stick to:
1. I want to keep as much trunk space as possible.
2. I don't want to remove my spare tire. (and it has to be reasonably accessable) 
3. I want 2 12's.

I've decided to try out a false floor type install. I will have 2 fairly big amps, that I don't really know were else to put. I don't have room on the back of the seats, and I don't want them attached to my box.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Spent a day with RaaMmat


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## SRim23 (May 24, 2007)

drewpage55 said:


> Alright, what do I need to do to insert images instead of attaching them?
> out of space...


put them on photobucket and link to there


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

doors...


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Front speakers are Boston spz60 running at 150 rms on bridged JL Audio 300/4

























stock 6x9's 









Alpine 6x9's I've been playing for about 5 years, (50 RMS)









Crazy focker that flew over the house...









Started on Floor again here








A little further after making 2 sides carpeting them, then trying a middle piece







ce


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

With my box in the space between the false floor and the magnets on the 6x9s is an issue. I think I have _maybe_ 1/4 of an inch to work with for the floor thinkness...I have 2 1/8 masonite pieces here I'm not sure what going to happen yet...

















Heres the pioneer P7300, came with the car, not sure if I like it so far, seems to have alot of extra effects crap that been confusing so far, I suppose I'm going to have to read the manual. I probably would have picked an Alpine or Clairion...

















Boston tweeter 


















Battreee









etc...


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## lsouljah (Nov 19, 2006)

Nice very similar to my EK Sedan, you might want to mount those mids on the actual door metal and use some wood spacer. You'll get a lot more midbass and less rattles, you'll also benefit more since you sealed those inner doors. 

Here's mine:


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

lsouljah said:


> Nice very similar to my EK Sedan, you might want to mount those mids on the actual door metal and use some wood spacer. You'll get a lot more midbass and less rattles, you'll also benefit more since you sealed those inner doors.


Yeah they are actually just mounted to the factory plastic door panel like stock, and I created my own baffles mostly to protect from water dripping down. 

so you just cut the whole speaker mount out then? I take it you can't put the factory speaker grill back on?

I do have a tiny bit of buzz at high volume thats going to drive me crazy, but I think its the door lock mechanisms and rods. Thats been my biggest issue with my trunk too, it rattles horribly from just regular driving. I can hear every tiny bump and crack I go over...

If you have any more pictures, I'd be very interested - thanks!


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

drewpage55 said:


> Battreee


That gives me flashbacks, I won't be right all day now. Hate those batteries!

Your exhaust... what is it? How bad does it drone? I'd hate to see you dum the money and time you did into acoustic treatment to fight a loud exhaust


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

chad said:


> That gives me flashbacks, I won't be right all day now. Hate those batteries!
> 
> Your exhaust... what is it? How bad does it drone? I'd hate to see you dum the money and time you did into acoustic treatment to fight a loud exhaust


So that battery is a POS? What should I get next time? That was one of the things the previous owner listed at something he replaced.

The exhaust is a Greddy evo2 Catback. I've never had a performance muffler before, but what I've read about others, this one is actually not too bad, it has a low throaty sound while driving nice, but can be obnoxious if I hammer through the gears. When I first got the car I hated it, but after getting use to the car and clutch, I'm kind of torn now. I have an appointment to get it swapped for a stock this friday, we'll see how long it stays OEM...

These are the other upgrades the previous owner did:
new brakes all the way around
new battery
tires are Yokohama Parada Spec 2
5Zigen 5ZR 17" wheels
Halo projector headlights
AEM cold air intake
MSD ignition
Nology plug wires
AEM alternator and power steering pulleys
DC short shifter
DC header
Greddy evo2 Catback exhaust
tinted windows
Viper alarm and remote starter


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Anybody have any ideas for rattling trunk? I swear its got to be the locks and rods, I've heard to stuff neoprene in there which seems kind of spendy, and others say expanding foam which I'm not sure about, because once its in removing it is not an option, else I'm thought about egg carton foam stuffed in the trunk lid...moisture problems?

I don't think RaaMmat just on the trunk will do it the trick. I cant stand it now with just the noise from the road, hows it going to sound once I stick 2 12's back there?...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Keep the EVO2, they don't suck, even if you replace it, keep it around, just in case. It still has the cat right? Or does it have the cat replaced with a "test pipe?"

I was going thru one of those "honda batteries" yearly and I'm not rough on a battery at all. I am currently using a Stinger SPV-35, some have gotten an SPV44 to fit just fine. I'm liking the SPV35, does not have squat for reserve capacity but it sure can make a whole lot of current really quick, took care of dimming issues all together  Does very well in the cold, scary well.

There's a review of it up here.


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## lsouljah (Nov 19, 2006)

drewpage55 said:


> Yeah they are actually just mounted to the factory plastic door panel like stock, and I created my own baffles mostly to protect from water dripping down.
> 
> so you just cut the whole speaker mount out then? I take it you can't put the factory speaker grill back on?
> 
> ...


That was my first install, when I was using DLS MS6 mids which are 6.5". I managed to put back the stock grill but most of the plastic are removed, maybe out of the 3 or 4 tabs on the grill only one is retained. I just used 3M double sided tape to hold the grill and prevent it from rattling.

But now, I had to create door pods since its impossible to fit 7" drivers without severely hacking the door cards. 

You can checkout the rest of the pictures at my build log. 

My car's ride is similar to yours, very hard to drive without the stereo on. IT SUCKS.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

chad said:


> Keep the EVO2, they don't suck, even if you replace it, keep it around, just in case. It still has the cat right? Or does it have the cat replaced with a "test pipe?"
> 
> I was going thru one of those "honda batteries" yearly and I'm not rough on a battery at all. I am currently using a Stinger SPV-35, some have gotten an SPV44 to fit just fine. I'm liking the SPV35, does not have squat for reserve capacity but it sure can make a whole lot of current really quick, took care of dimming issues all together  Does very well in the cold, scary well.
> 
> There's a review of it up here.


Man, I have a feeling I'm going to regret taking off that muffler...everyone I've talked to (except my step dad who doesn't know anything about cars) says they would not mess with it. (sigh) The whole exhaust from the DC header back is stainless steel, Don the Muffler man looked at it and said it was a nice install from front to back. pretty sure its a real catalytic converter...

thanks for the low down on the bat tree...


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

I found that rattle in my trunk. Its my trunk...LID. der...

These two magic pieces of foam securely attached with gorilla tape for a high speed test run cleared up probably 95% of the rattles.








I also shoved some foam in the top, but that didn't make much of difference...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

drewpage55 said:


> Man, I have a feeling I'm going to regret taking off that muffler...everyone I've talked to (except my step dad who doesn't know anything about cars) says they would not mess with it. (sigh) The whole exhaust from the DC header back is stainless steel, Don the Muffler man looked at it and said it was a nice install from front to back. pretty sure its a real catalytic converter...
> 
> thanks for the low down on the bat tree...


If it does not have a cat, (does that have a 2 stage o2 sensor?) it can be pretty ratty, but if it indeed does have a cat and it's not punched out it should sound pretty nice and not drone too bad.

One way to check to see if it's a real cat or not, do you have a Check Engine Light on? (CEL) if not does it have a 2 stage cat? If so, does it use a machanical device (2 spark plug de-foulers) to simulate a cat present or possibly an electrical box (can be iffy) to fake the ECU into thinkign there's a cat there?


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

lsouljah said:


> That was my first install, when I was using DLS MS6 mids which are 6.5". I managed to put back the stock grill but most of the plastic are removed, maybe out of the 3 or 4 tabs on the grill only one is retained. I just used 3M double sided tape to hold the grill and prevent it from rattling.
> 
> But now, I had to create door pods since its impossible to fit 7" drivers without severely hacking the door cards.
> 
> ...


With these Bostons it probably wouldn't be too hard, they have Neodymium magnets. I'd have to cut the plastic panel, but I could easily make them fit behind the factory panels.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

chad said:


> If it does not have a cat, (does that have a 2 stage o2 sensor?) it can be pretty ratty, but if it indeed does have a cat and it's not punched out it should sound pretty nice and not drone too bad.
> 
> One way to check to see if it's a real cat or not, do you have a Check Engine Light on? (CEL) if not does it have a 2 stage cat? If so, does it use a machanical device (2 spark plug de-foulers) to simulate a cat present or possibly an electrical box (can be iffy) to fake the ECU into thinkign there's a cat there?


Well, no check engine light on thats for sure, everything on the car is in excellent shape, I'm not sure about the de-foulers...
maybe you can tell...

























Got some subs today...yay


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

I cant tell, the O2 sensors should be canted up, if it's dual stage then there should be one before and after the cat. Does it rasp bad or is it just throaty?


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Oh, and.. Are you gonna run those tires this winter?


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Well its been a while since my last post, but the install was kind of on hold for a while waiting for second amp, etc...

Chad, - No I have a separate set of regular tires for winter. 

Since my last posts, I've been messing with a cooling fan system and have redone my false floor situation, its definetly a work in progress.
I used the schematics from http://www.bcae1.com/coolfans.htm (this site rocks) and with just a few fans I found around the house have a very basic fan cooling 
system that actually works ok. Using my remote wire to turn on the relay...









Mess of the above...









I've been monitoring the temp with this $8 thermometer in which I've attached its wired probe to the JL Audio 300/4.









Average temp stays between 90 - 116 degrees F. I'll probably buy squirrel fans eventually after I test out a few more ideas...









I installed a cheap 1 farad cap. Yeah alot of people here say that its worthless, and after this post, I believe you and will eventually buy a batcap
or something similar, but I bought the cap before that post, and well screw it, its going in for now. 
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43639



















Started to wire things, minding that I'm trying to maintain some sense of removability in case of needing access to spare tire. 
My false floor has 3 sections that I intend to be able to remove easily in case of emergency with little or no tools. 
Keeping this goal in mind has been tough and has been a design limitation since the beginning. 









As of this weekend...


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Cleaned up the wiring a bit today...
















Sub Level Control








Thats probably going to be about it for a while,


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## cnguyen (Feb 1, 2008)

are you gonna seal up the cabin from the trunk or leave as is?


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

drewpage55 said:


> Battreee


Damn, I dunno how you managed to get those battery terminal on right. I've gone through 2 different brands of battery trying to replace the OEM Honda and could not get the terminal to seat all the way down on either. That bolt bracket section hits the base unless its elevated like the OEM bat post is and won't let the battery clamp down tight, just comes off with a twist afterwards from only a millimeter above where it should rest.  

Maybe your terminal is slightly different then mine, it's a previous model CRV.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

cnguyen said:


> are you gonna seal up the cabin from the trunk or leave as is?


The only sealing I plan on doing is folding up the back seats...lol


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

t3sn4f2 said:


> Damn, I dunno how you managed to get those battery terminal on right. I've gone through 2 different brands of battery trying to replace the OEM Honda and could not get the terminal to seat all the way down on either. That bolt bracket section hits the base unless its elevated like the OEM bat post is and won't let the battery clamp down tight, just comes off with a twist afterwards from only a millimeter above where it should rest.
> 
> Maybe your terminal is slightly different then mine, it's a previous model CRV.


Ha, too bad I didn't install the battery, the previous owner who's a honda mechanic did...I'll have to look at it to get what you mean...


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## t3sn4f2 (Jan 3, 2007)

drewpage55 said:


> Ha, too bad I didn't install the battery, the previous owner who's a honda mechanic did...I'll have to look at it to get what you mean...


Yeah its weird, right under the bolt there's the bracket that comes together. It hangs lower then the bottom of the bottom of the terminal so they elevated the OEM post mount to compensate for that.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

lilmsprelude said:


> I was going to ask the same thing.
> 
> Almost any trunk mounted sub system will have less cancellation and perceived louder bass if you turn em around and aim those Subs at the license plate. Especially in your Honda, I drive a 92 Prelude and when I faced the sub forward it was just about like removing the darn thing.


thanks lilmsprelude, I'll try flipping them around tonight, (I can't believe I haven't done this already...I should know that, I've heard professionals say that before...I FAIL)


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Here's a fan idea for you, this is what I have under my 500/5, yoiu kinda have to visualze the amp on top of it, the larger cutout area where the bruunt of the fans are is coivered by the bottom of the amplifier thus creating a "duct" that directs the airflow evenly across the heatsinks. My false floor sits about 1/2 inch on top fo the amp and I have no issues whatsoever. They pull air up out of the wheel-well and push it out around the sides of the false floor, especially a little cutout in the corner that had to be made to accomodate for the flip-up.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Well I've pointed my subs to the rear of the car, and they do sound a bit louder (I think) but now I swear I'm hearing a delay. The bass drum seems to slightly behind...


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

Are you hearing a delay or the car continuing to "ring" or resonate?


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

chad said:


> Are you hearing a delay or the car continuing to "ring" or resonate?


thats a good question, hadn't considered that, but I don't think so because volume doesn't seem to play a role in the problem, ...it just seems like the bass drum is not right, especially with songs that have fast tempo and alot of drumming. Its doesn't seem to be as clean i guess, but its hard to tell sometimes.

Nice cooling system, I had something similar in mind, still not sure on fan type yet, my cobbled together fans have actually been working pretty good so far...


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

After closing up the trunk, and trying various types of music, I guess its not that bad...


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

I recently made some additions. 
















I could NOT find a place anywere I liked for the batcap. I settled on this spot.
I velcroed the entire bottom of the batcap, and secured the top with velcro wrap which sticks great to the carpet.









Finding a place for a 4 gauge ground wire was a pain too until I removed the battery.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Ran ground down middle.


































yes I bought it because it looked cool.


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)




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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

Trying to dampen some more, wish I had more Ram mat...


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## benthe8track (Nov 23, 2008)

Interesting choices on how you did a few things. I actually have a 2000 black Si myself. I picked up an Optima yellow top eventually but it was hard to find our Group 51 size. Not sure if that's a good spot for your Xstatic battery unless that's just a temp solution?


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

I know the location of the batcap concerns me a little, I just could not find a better place for it. It doesn't move, and usually will be protected by the back seat, I don't really want to put down by the spare, as it won't be able to stand straight up...any ideas are welcome. I still need to cover at least the positive terminal, not sure how I'm going to do that either..


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)




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## benthe8track (Nov 23, 2008)

Were you experiencing voltage drop issues is that why you added the batcap in the first place?


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## drewpage55 (Aug 3, 2008)

yeah diming lights...not anymore though...


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