# '21 2dr Wrangler - Build Log v1 - 3-way Active Hertz, JL Audio, MiniDSP DL



## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I hope some one finds this thread interesting and/or useful! As a preface, a lot of my build is going to be a less elaborate copy of @DavidRam's 2-door JL Wrangler build. Many thanks to him for paving the way for a less-experienced installer like myself to be tackling an install like this.

*Vehicle:* 2021 2-door Jeep JL Wrangler, with Premium Sunrider Soft Top, without Alpine Stereo/Subwoofer, with 7" UConnect

*Major Parts: *
Head Unit: Stinger Heigh10 + JL Wrangler Dash Kit
DSP: MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (Dirac Live)
Speaker Amp: JL Audio XD800/8v2, bridged to 6 Channels (75x4 + 200x2)
Sub Amp: JL Audio XD1000/1v2
Tweeters: Hertz Mille Legend ML 280.3
Mids: Hertz Mille Legend ML 700.3
Mid-bass: Hertz Mille Legend ML 1650.3
Sub: JL Audio 10W7AE-3

*Plan:*
Most of the install speaks for itself once you read the parts list, but I'll just point out a few areas that may be of interest below.

1) I will be running a Toslink out of the Heigh10 (which has variable optical volume) into the MiniDSP
2) I will be mounting the amps and DSP in the rear cargo tub (in the floor of the hatch). JL amps (which are of equal width) will be stacked, using some kind of TBD spacers, and positioned on the right side of the cargo tub. MiniDSP will be raised off the ground of the cargo tub (ideally with the same spacers I used for stacking the amps), and positioned on the left side of the cargo tub.
3) I will be using a down-firing ported box, for top-down glory. I am actively in the market for an enclosure/builder.
4) I will be modifying Metra's kick panel pods to have an aperiodic vent, to "expand" the enclosure size. Straight up copied from the above referenced build.
5) I do not have the vehicle yet (arriving in 2-3 weeks), but the parts have started to arrive, so I'm going to tackle items that I can in advance (such as the aperiodic vents), hopefully starting this weekend.

*Background:*
A lot of parts decisions were based on what was available from a good friend's family member, who is a JL/Elettromedia dealer. I was _this _close to going with an AudioFrog GB 3-way, but ultimately decided to buy all the major parts from my friend (who does not carry AF), at a healthy discount. Hopefully I don't regret this decision later. I have been using JL Audio subwoofers since I was in high school, and have had great experiences with them, but I have not really experimented outside of there (asides from 2 Concept LMT-15s that I ran in a 4Runner in college, but that is a whole different story).

I liked JL's XD amps because their sizing (equal width, low height) is perfect for the layout I'm seeking. I chose the MiniDSP w/ Dirac because I am not an expert tuner, and Dirac will help me tremendously (it certainly helped me in my home). I chose the Stinger Heigh10 because, frankly, I think it's the best looking head unit kit available for this car, and interior look is definitely a priority for me. It just looks OEM.

*Help:*
I am not the most talented installer, but I have some experience (2 summers in a "high-end" car stereo/custom home theater shop when I was in high school, plus a few of my own cars). I know there are many areas where I could I benefit from the expertise of others, so I thank you in advance for any help you might offer me along the way. This forum is a goldmine. I plan on tackling the entire install myself (with coaching from others), except for the subwoofer enclosure. If any one "knows a guy", please give me a recommendation!

Thank you for reading!


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

What no pics of the car at least?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Jaloosk said:


> What no pics of the car at least?


Yea, in hindsight, I see that I jumped the gun on starting my build log, since I don't have anything to show for it yet. I haven't taken delivery of the car yet, so this is the best I can do:








Note: I will be ditching the red accents, since this will be my daily driver, and I prefer to keep the Christmas theme confined to December.

Parts start arriving tonight, so I'll be able to make this post a little more visually appealing soon.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Nice 👍


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

nice looking forward to another jeep build.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I'm in!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Here's the game plan. Let me know if I'm missing something!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

First set of installation parts arrived


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Traced the Scanspeak Aperiodic Vents and made cuts for them to fit snug into the back of the Metra kick panel pods. Will be hot gluing those in, then dampening the pods.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

It looks oh so familiar... Nice job


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Would CA glue and accelerator work better than hot glue for the AP vents?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

mfenske said:


> Would CA glue and accelerator work better than hot glue for the AP vents?


I don't know the answer to that. But, if you know what you're doing...then you probably know better than me! If you tell me CA glue and accelerator will work better, then I'll use those.

Thanks for the tip!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I masked it off and used a fast drying epoxy, as there are some cracks and gaps that CA glue isn't thick enough to fill, at least not without multiple applications.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> I masked it off and used a fast drying epoxy, as there are some cracks and gaps that CA glue isn't thick enough to fill, at least not without multiple applications.


I was thinking hot glue would be good because it fills gaps. Is it just not strong enough for this use case?

Also dumb question...but what did you mask off before using the epoxy? The sides of the vents so that the epoxy didn't get on them?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> I was thinking hot glue would be good because it fills gaps. Is it just not strong enough for this use case?
> 
> Also dumb question...but what did you mask off before using the epoxy? The sides of the vents so that the epoxy didn't get on them?


I wouldn't use hot glue. I masked off the inside of the pod at the crack, leaving a little valley for the epoxy to fill, and then applied the epoxy from the outside... The vent won't sit flush on the pod because of that raised area, and that gives you enough of a gap to fill the crack using the syring style epoxy i sent you a link to.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> I wouldn't use hot glue. I masked off the inside of the pod at the crack, leaving a little valley for the epoxy to fill, and then applied the epoxy from the outside... The vent won't sit flush on the pod because of that raised area, and that gives you enough of a gap to fill the crack using the syring style epoxy i sent you a link to.


So something like this and then filled from the outside?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Yes. 
Just make sure there are no leaks or the epoxy will leak through...
The epoxy both seals it and adheres it in place.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Got it. Thanks.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

You'll need the pod to be on a very level surface, as the epoxy self levels, so it'll wander in any direction gravity takes it.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

That'll be fun, given that the pod is not at all flat.

Doubled down on the masking, btw


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> That'll be fun, given that the pod is not at all flat.
> 
> Doubled down on the masking, btw


Yep, the joys of not leaving anything stock


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Can't even leave the aftermarket pods stock.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Can't even leave the aftermarket pods stock.


Haha! Modifing the aftermarket


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Treasure trove just arrived...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Looks like Christmas!! And birthday!!


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

I watched a video yesterday about that Stinger Heigh10 and it looks really interesting. Be curious to see what you think about it.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

bigbubba said:


> I watched a video yesterday about that Stinger Heigh10 and it looks really interesting. Be curious to see what you think about it.


I'll certainly let you know once I have it installed. Still waiting for the JL Wrangler dash kit. It integrates with the CANBUS, so it should be _pretty _slick...I hope. Going to use its variable optical out to the DSP.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Made some stencils to trace/cut some baffles (hopefully this weekend)


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Nice pile of gear!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Jaloosk said:


> Nice pile of gear!


Thank you. It's my birthday on Tuesday; seems like I'm opening my gifts (to myself) early.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Made some stencils to trace/cut some baffles (hopefully this weekend)
> 
> View attachment 286039


Just a heads up. Depending on how thick your baffle is you may have to space the pods back so the speaker doesn’t hit the dash cover.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

You should like the XD800/8. Lots of clean power and does very good running 75x4 and 200x2.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

NW JLUR said:


> Just a heads up. Depending on how thick your baffle is you may have to space the pods back so the speaker doesn’t hit the dash cover.


True. Driver side is no problem, but passenger side is really tight. I think a 1/8" to 1/4" baffle on the passenger side would work.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Just a heads up. Depending on how thick your baffle is you may have to space the pods back so the speaker doesn’t hit the dash cover.


Thanks for the tip!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> True. Driver side is no problem, but passenger side is really tight. I think a 1/8" to 1/4" baffle on the passenger side would work.


Do you think I should go with a thicker baffle on the driver side or keep the baffle even on both sides?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> You should like the XD800/8. Lots of clean power and does very good running 75x4 and 200x2.


Thanks! Are you running (or have you ran) the same amp on a 3-way active setup?


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## ballistic1350 (Jan 16, 2015)

I run the m800/8 (marine version but same amp just white) and I think it is a great solution for a 3 way active setup. It powers my scan tweets, gb25, and gb60. Clean power with a pretty small footprint. ID be suprised if you werent happy with it


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

ballistic1350 said:


> I run the m800/8 (marine version but same amp just white) and I think it is a great solution for a 3 way active setup. It powers my scan tweets, gb25, and gb60. Clean power with a pretty small footprint. ID be suprised if you werent happy with it


Cool! I almost went with a GB setup. Hopefully I'll be happy with the Milles. I also thought about going marine just to stick with the Wrangler vibe. But they don't make the MiniDSP in marine


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Some pictures of the car it's going in:


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Thanks! Are you running (or have you ran) the same amp on a 3-way active setup?


Yes I’m running the same amp bridged to 6 channels on a 3-way active system in my JL. I’d also be surprised if you weren’t happy with it. It’s a very solid amp. You and DavidRam have me interested in pulling the sealed pods out and trying an AP vent in them. I’ll do that if I get the midbass I put on my Christmas list.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Yes I’m running the same amp bridged to 6 channels on a 3-way active system in my JL. I’d also be surprised if you weren’t happy with it. It’s a very solid amp. You and DavidRam have me interested in pulling the sealed pods out and trying an AP vent in them. I’ll do that if I get the midbass I put on my Christmas list.


Cool! What mid-bass would that be?

I've been working on completely sealing off the hole I cut for the vent; been going in my pitch-black closet and shining a light through it to see if I missed any spots. I'm on Round 4 right now. Hopefully that portion is done now. 

Then moving onto the baffle. I procured the wood; waiting for a new jigsaw to arrive (Friday) so I can make the cuts.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I'm working with Dave Marin @ Sound Authority (formerly High Output Enclosures) on the box. Going with a custom down-firing, slot-ported box for the 10W7. 3/4" Birch plywood, double baffle, and window to expose the W7's basket/magnet.

I'm looking at 1.5 cubic feet net internal volume, tuned to 32Hz. Any one have any thoughts on that? I've read on this forum that JL always recommends smaller sizes than what is optimal. I opened up WinISD and tried playing around with slightly higher internal volumes, and I wasn't able to get a major difference (to my eyes anyways), but this is my first time using WinISD.

JL recommends tuning to 35.3Hz. But the builder I'm working with has had success at 1.5 net @ 32Hz on this exact sub, so it seems like a safe bet for me to go with.

Any tips appreciated!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

@DavidRam when you clamped your power wire to the underbody of the Jeep, did you use self-tapping screws with a pilot hole, or self drilling screws? I remember you were suggesting about 3/4".


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> @DavidRam when you clamped your power wire to the underbody of the Jeep, did you use self-tapping screws with a pilot hole, or self drilling screws? I remember you were suggesting about 3/4".


Self tapping, like these


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Cool! What mid-bass would that be?
> 
> I've been working on completely sealing off the hole I cut for the vent; been going in my pitch-black closet and shining a light through it to see if I missed any spots. I'm on Round 4 right now. Hopefully that portion is done now.
> 
> Then moving onto the baffle. I procured the wood; waiting for a new jigsaw to arrive (Friday) so I can make the cuts.


The Stevens Audio MB6. I’ve been pretty happy with the midbass I have right now, especially for how inexpensive it was! I made a post a couple weeks ago asking for advice on a midbass for a small, Metra pods are 0.10 ft3, enclosure. I’ve got some other questions that I’d like to try and answer before pulling the whole dash apart again.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> The Stevens Audio MB6. I’ve been pretty happy with the midbass I have right now, especially for how inexpensive it was! I made a post a couple weeks ago asking for advice on a midbass for a small, Metra pods are 0.10 ft3, enclosure. I’ve got some other questions that I’d like to try and answer before pulling the whole dash apart again.


Cool. Makes sense. I need to be able to drive my Jeep daily, so don't love leaving it half apart for extended periods of time.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Baffles glued and screwed into the pods. Hopefully can be done with the pods tomorrow! I do intend to clean up / sand the edges.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

That should give the screws something strong to grab on, between the pod and the wood... I'm kinda curious on what part of the pods construction you used the stethoscope?! Lol


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

That was to make sure my baffles still had life in them after I butchered the speaker cutouts.

My wife was displeased that I borrowed them from her


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Amp rack in progress


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Pods done, amp racks in progress


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

For the 1/0AWG power wire, being ran outside the vehicle, I'm going to wrap the power wire with split TechFlex, then wrap with outdoor Tesa tape, per DavidRam's recommendation. Any tips on how to do this?

Specifically, I'm trying to avoid doing all the wrapping while laying under the Jeep; so I'm thinking maybe I should lay the wire out to get approximate length, add a foot, then cut the power wire. Then bring that indoors; wrap the approximate wire length from the cargo tub (where amps will go) to the beginning of the engine bay. Bring that back outside, install from the back to the front, then cut the front (engine bay area) to exact size, and finish the wrapping for the portion in the engine bay.

I know this isn't rocket science; just trying to be efficient with my time spent outside, because it's around freezing these days. Thanks for any tips!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> For the 1/0AWG power wire, being ran outside the vehicle, I'm going to wrap the power wire with split TechFlex, then wrap with outdoor Tesa tape, per DavidRam's recommendation. Any tips on how to do this?
> 
> Specifically, I'm trying to avoid doing all the wrapping while laying under the Jeep; so I'm thinking maybe I should lay the wire out to get approximate length, add a foot, then cut the power wire. Then bring that indoors; wrap the approximate wire length from the cargo tub (where amps will go) to the beginning of the engine bay. Bring that back outside, install from the back to the front, then cut the front (engine bay area) to exact size, and finish the wrapping for the portion in the engine bay.
> 
> I know this isn't rocket science; just trying to be efficient with my time spent outside, because it's around freezing these days. Thanks for any tips!


It's pretty hard to guess or measure the needed length within a foot of accuracy... I would leave myself a little more play than that. But otherwise your method sounds good.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> It's pretty hard to guess or measure the needed length within a foot of accuracy... I would leave myself a little more play than that. But otherwise your method sounds good.


Cool; I just won't cut my 20' length, and then will pre-wrap around 10' of it or so.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Heading over to my parwnts' garage to try to make some progress. Because my prissy condo association won't allow working on cars in my building's garage


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Hey folks,

Here's what I got through this weekend...

*Progress:*
1) 1/0AWG power wire ran from circuit breaker under hood to cargo tub in back
2) 1/0AWG ground wire ran from cargo tub to ground location (see Open Ends below)
3) 1/0AWG power wires connected to distribution blocks, underneath the planned location for the XD1000/1
4) Stinger Heigh10 head unit installed, with remote-turn-on and Toslink routed to passenger footwell
5) While dash was disassembled, I replaced the red plastic Rubicon trim panels with black leather ones (required swapping the passenger airbag)
6) While dash was disassembled, I ran speaker wires for all 6 channels to the passenger footwell
7) Dash partially reassembled

*Open Ends:*
A) Ground lug is not sanded and just all around not a great bolt; ordered the JL ground lug, and will make a better ground connection
B) Stinger Heigh10 is giving me CANBUS issues of some sort. It is not turning on when I turn the car on, but it oddly turns on several minutes later. Working with Stinger tech support to debug. This is a real bummer because it's preventing me from reassembling the dash, and from adjusting the temperature with accuracy. I'm down to the level of debugging such that I need to use a multimeter to figure out if one of the 3 harness modules is bad. I think it's something specific to the CANBUS. Hoping the '21 Wrangler CANBUS is not any different than the 18-20 models.
C) Somewhere in the process of pulling the head unit in and out, I broke the Toslink cable, which sticks down out of the head unit. I just ordered one with a right angle end; hopefully I don't break that one

*Next Steps (asides from the Open Ends):*
i) route wires from passenger footwell to cargo tub
ii) install speakers
iii) install amps/DSP
iv) finalize enclosure design
v) tune
vi) lights?

*Pics:*

_Dash before:









Dash disassembled:_









_Dash current (WIP): _

















_Cargo tub w/ distribution blocks:















_


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

nice keep up the good work


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

toneloc2 said:


> nice keep up the good work


Thanks; will do! 

The Stinger head unit problems are quite demoralizing. I've pulled it out of my dash 4 times now, and thus far, I'm pretty sure the issues with it are _not _related to my install, but rather the head unit "brain" or one of the harness modules is busted. My dealer (good friend's brother-in-law) is out of the country...otherwise it would be great if I can just get another head unit and harness kit and start swapping out pieces one by one to determine what is busted (versus debugging with my current [lack of] tools/bench).

On the bright side, I do still have my UConnect, but I purposefully got the smaller 7" model, since I was planning to install the Stinger unit. I'm not quite ready to change course on the Stinger unit, but if I do, the 7" screen is a back-up option. Seems like you and @DavidRam had good success using the PAC UConnect to digital out unit.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Thanks; will do!
> 
> The Stinger head unit problems are quite demoralizing. I've pulled it out of my dash 4 times now, and thus far, I'm pretty sure the issues with it are _not _related to my install, but rather the head unit "brain" or one of the harness modules is busted. My dealer (good friend's brother-in-law) is out of the country...otherwise it would be great if I can just get another head unit and harness kit and start swapping out pieces one by one to determine what is busted (versus debugging with my current [lack of] tools/bench).
> 
> On the bright side, I do still have my UConnect, but I purposefully got the smaller 7" model, since I was planning to install the Stinger unit. I'm not quite ready to change course on the Stinger unit, but if I do, the 7" screen is a back-up option. Seems like you and @DavidRam had good success using the PAC UConnect to digital out unit.


Sorry to hear this, man... I hope you get it figured out. Just to clarify, I never used the PAC... My head unit is not connected to my sound system, though it still works and plays independently through the sound bar speakers. 

There are more signal options, too - phone via Bluetooth to DSP, digital audio player via coax to dsp (what I am using).


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> Sorry to hear this, man... I hope you get it figured out. Just to clarify, I never used the PAC... My head unit is not connected to my sound system, though it still works and plays independently through the sound bar speakers.
> 
> There are more signal options, too - phone via Bluetooth to DSP, digital audio player via coax to dsp (what I am using).


Makes sense to me. I forgot you were using that Fiio player. I really want to get this Stinger unit to work, because it looks incredible and makes my dashboard look great (especially with the new trim panels). It's just a shame, because it's been a big roadblock, and I don't feel like I'm close to a solution.

If it does turn out to be a multi-week affair, I could put the OEM unit back in, and temporarily do a phone-to-BT-to-DSP connection, so that I can move onto the rest of the install.

I will admit, though, that I hate having pieces of a project 80% done, and then wrapping up each open end at the end. I am way more of a black box/modular complete each task 100% before moving on kind of guy.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Also, not to be defensive (as I defend my position), but I understand the value of a higher fidelity source. Just for this particular situation for my use case, I'm not really wanting to trade off the ease of use of having steering wheel controls, etc.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I hear ya...


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

At home, some times I play Pandora when I have friends over, because it's just easier. It's at least a direct connection (no bluetooth; Denon's wi-fi streamer), but still streamed. When no one is around, though, you might catch me playing some vinyls.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I do the same with my home audio... (Cambridge receiver, Focal speakers and Gallo Acoustics sub)


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Oh, cool. I think I almost got that Cambridge unit. I kind of wish I did. I have the Denon Heos unit, which has a really wonky app. I've got an Musical Fidelity amp powering B&W 805S, and a hand-me-down Velodyne sub that my brother gave me when he determined it was in danger of his young sons kicking it in.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

High-level box design here for the 10W7AE-3. This is 1.5 cubes, tuned to just barely below 31Hz. Double baffle, with recessed mount. 3/4" Birch. Any opinions welcome, before I approve this high-level design and move into the more specific/polished design. Dimensions are 27wx12dx17h, which includes the 2" feet.

Design is by Dave @ SoundAuthority.


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

Couple thoughts on the box design. These comments are on the assumption that both the sub and port are firing down. Video is pretty grainy but this is what it looks like to me.

2" might not be enough space between the port and the floor for the port to breath. If the floor is soft (eg carpeted), the weight of the box will reduce that 2" further as the feet dig into the floor. What did the area of the port turn out to be? The smaller that is, the higher the port velocity, and the more space between the port and floor you'd need. If you don't have enough space, you'll get port turbulence, which will color the sound and reduce output. 

Second concern, and I'm honestly not sure how important this is, but the port being aligned with the foot of the enclosure might actually make the port act longer than it is, which will change the tuning frequency.

Have you considered an orientation where the sub faces up and the port faces the side? Or downfiring sub with port to the side?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

sapphari said:


> Couple thoughts on the box design. These comments are on the assumption that both the sub and port are firing down. Video is pretty grainy but this is what it looks like to me.
> 
> 2" might not be enough space between the port and the floor for the port to breath. If the floor is soft (eg carpeted), the weight of the box will reduce that 2" further as the feet dig into the floor. What did the area of the port turn out to be? The smaller that is, the higher the port velocity, and the more space between the port and floor you'd need. If you don't have enough space, you'll get port turbulence, which will color the sound and reduce output.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback; we did initially look at a downfiring sub with a side-facing aeroport. But I liked the amount of specificity we got with the slot port. I only looked at downfiring designs (for the sub) because I was told that's the best way to keep output up while the top is down (I have a soft-top that I intend to use regularly). It was unclear to me whether the port needed to also be down-firing, but all the designs I saw worked in that way. I did think about whether that acts as a longer port due to the feet. But I was told that, since there is so much open surface area around the port, it should be OK.

The port area is a foot, which yielded a port velocity of 34 m/s. I asked about using more port area to lower the port velocity, but was told that, with this amount of depth/size, it's not a good idea, as a larger port will introduce more port noise.

Any follow-on thoughts on the above? I'm not an expert, just trying to piece together your advice and the builder's. In the builder's defense, he has built many similar box (albeit not down-firing) for 10W7s, and supposedly yielded great results (though I haven't personally heard any of them).

The floor is carpeted; maybe I should go with another .5" to an inch on the feet. I should have that amount of room to spare.

Thanks again.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Do most of your concerns get alleviated if I increase the feet height by an inch?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Visually speaking, since this box is going to be aligned all the way to the passenger's side, perhaps I should offset the driver/glass to be visually in the center of the vehicle (instead of center of the box)


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

Port area is 12sqin? No disrespect to the designer, but from everything I've read about slot ports, that's too small, no matter which way it faces. I would not go less than 18, and I think 20-24 is ideal for a 1.5cuft box, especially considering it's downfiring. 16sqin per cubic ft of enclosure space is the generally accepted rule of thumb. There's a camp of people who think that may not be enough though - here's a good resource from that camp (input your power, box volume and tuning frequency and get recommended port area). This recommends 21sqin minimum for 1.5cuft, 31Hz and 800W. This calculator was based on empirical information (eg built and installed boxes, not just models). Triticum's Improved Port Area Calculator V2

More background on the calculator: Triticum's Improved Port Area Calculator

3" is certainly better clearance than 2". Hard to say how much is enough though. You could have it built with no feet, and then determine how much raise it needs by testing, then add feet thereafter. The feet could also be actual feet (like a large dowel) instead of a board that extends the length of the enclosure.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I am not qualified to speaker on what the leg will do to the port length and tuning, but I tend to agree with sapphari and would bring that up to the designer/builder. I took that into consideration in my box, and made sure the port and the feet did NOT line up...
Here is how I made mine (I realize you've seen these Anu, but the others are welcome to comment or criticize ):


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

That box looks great David, nice work!!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Thanks for the great/helpful feedback. Asking the builder now.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

David's box is awesome, btw. As I said on my first post, my build, overall, is modeled after his, but is a bit less extensive.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Separately, I got the multimeter into the Stinger harnesses...it seems like the main harness module, called the Radio Pro Advanced, which converts the CANBUS signal into the standard head unit wires (e.g. yellow constant and red ignition), is not properly converting the red wire. Stinger _should _be sending me a new harness soon. What're the odds?!?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Re: sub box, it's 18" port area; the 12" was per cube. He said I don't want more area than that on a low-powered sub. It was funny to hear that my sub is low powered, but I know there are at least 2 people following my thread with 3000w, so I guess my 800 is low power. Also, he's saying since the W7 is a "looser" sub, that is his reasoning on the lower port area.


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

Cool, 18 total is much better than 12 total. I think you should move forward with it but you might consider feet like David's, and I'd recommend 3 or 4" feet, considering it will sink into the carpet. I wouldn't want any less than 2.5" actual clearance personally.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

sapphari said:


> Cool, 18 total is much better than 12 total. I think you should move forward with it but you might consider feet like David's, and I'd recommend 3 or 4" feet, considering it will sink into the carpet. I wouldn't want any less than 2.5" actual clearance personally.


Cool. Trying to figure out how to make this work, because David is saying I have one inch LESS height to work with than him, bc I'm using the cargo tub cover.

Separately, from the builder/designer:

In reference to your jeep build another thing to consider is that a downfiring Box is going to end up having slightly lower port velocity by nature. But like I said the difference between 30 m/s and 34 m/s is negligible.

And to be clear we didn’t make the port go full depth because it would end up being so skinny that it would be prone to port noise. It’s about the opening ratio. That doesn’t mean it has any less port area per cube. I never try to exceed a 1:9 ratio for the port opening. It causes more surface area inside of the port which causes internal drag. The worst boxes I’ve ever heard exceeded this ratio, despite having the correct amount of port area/length and airspace. They also fall on their face on a decibel meter.

For example 12 in.² per cube for 1.5 cubes would be 18”. The skinniest I would want the port is a 1:9 as in 2”x9”. With a port opening depth of 10.5 the port would only be 1.714” wide


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

Agree, 30 vs 34m/s is negligible. Also true 1:9 is a common ratio to stay under for LxW for a port (as close to 1:1 is best). 10.5x1.714 is acceptable (it's 1:6.1).


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I agree that the example he gave is under his ratio, but the number he's actually going with is _well _under his ratio. In any case, I don't know enough about this to argue in his defense or anything, but I think we agree the design should be solid, right? Just need to figure out the feet situation. He was suggesting sending me a few different foot options, that way I can trial and error. The only thing is I don't really want the feet to look like an afterthought on the box. He was agreeing that the space under the sub will impact the sound, but that it's not exactly calculable in advance, the same way we wouldn't be able to calculate all the ramifications of the cabin, etc, in advance.


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## sapphari (Oct 7, 2013)

Agree, it's a solid design.

For the feet, I think if you go with 3.5" feet (yielding maybe 2.75" actual clearance), you'll be fine. 

If you want to try different options for feet, he could set a t-nut into the box, and drill holes in the feet for the bolt. That way the feet are interchangeable and either would look like it was the original intended foot. Does that make sense?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

While I wait for my new harness module to come in for the Stinger unit, I may tackle the mid-bass pod installation into the kick panel. @DavidRam, @toneloc2 , or @NW JLUR , I see in the online posts about removing the driver side pod that there is a "gateway" on the back of it. Do I need to re-install that? Wasn't sure if that gateway is specifically for when using the OEM head unit. I actually sealed up the gateway holes on my Metra pod, so hoping I don't need to mount it up to that. Otherwise I'll need to undo some of my work.

Thanks!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

sapphari said:


> Agree, it's a solid design.
> 
> For the feet, I think if you go with 3.5" feet (yielding maybe 2.75" actual clearance), you'll be fine.
> 
> If you want to try different options for feet, he could set a t-nut into the box, and drill holes in the feet for the bolt. That way the feet are interchangeable and either would look like it was the original intended foot. Does that make sense?


Yea, makes sense; though I don't think it will look quite as good as extending the box ends, since there will be a seam in the carpeting


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> While I wait for my new harness module to come in for the Stinger unit, I may tackle the mid-bass pod installation into the kick panel. @DavidRam, @toneloc2 , or @NW JLUR , I see in the online posts about removing the driver side pod that there is a "gateway" on the back of it. Do I need to re-install that? Wasn't sure if that gateway is specifically for when using the OEM head unit. I actually sealed up the gateway holes on my Metra pod, so hoping I don't need to mount it up to that. Otherwise I'll need to undo some of my work.
> 
> Thanks!


I mounted mine to a different spot under the dash... I can't remember where. You'll find a place for it when you see it.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> I mounted mine to a different spot under the dash... I can't remember where. You'll find a place for it when you see it.


Cool. A month ago, I thought I'd just be buying and installing Metra pods per Metra instructions. Look what you (and this forum) have done to me.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Or, maybe I came here looking to find out how to do _more_.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Cool. A month ago, I thought I'd just be buying and installing Metra pods per Metra instructions. Look what you (and this forum) have done to me.


I think that's many of our stories on how we got into this hobby!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

@DavidRam tips on how to "rotate" the pods out? I've got all three screws on the driver side pod out and the pod can definitely be shifted around, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to rotate them out. The bottom of the pod keeps getting stuck on the metal brace down there.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> @DavidRam tips on how to "rotate" the pods out? I've got all three screws on the driver side pod out and the pod can definitely be shifted around, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to rotate them out. The bottom of the pod keeps getting stuck on the metal brace down there.


Man, I wish I could remember that detail... I think you have to remove the metal bracket that is in the way on the driver's side, iirc.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> Man, I wish I could remember that detail... I think you have to remove the metal bracket that is in the way on the driver's side, iirc.


Ah, okay. Man, I had 90% of the dash disassembled last weekend, when I was replacing the red plastic trim panels with the leather ones. I should have had the foresight to _not _reassemble; it would have only taken me another 15 min to disassemble the remaining 10%, then the pods would just pop on and off without any finangling.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Removing that brace looks trivial, actually.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

Sorry I’m no help to you for the pods. I made door pods for mine.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

toneloc2 said:


> Sorry I’m no help to you for the pods. I made door pods for mine.


Sweet. Got any pics?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Removing that brace looks trivial, actually.


It is. I have read online instructions on removing the pods, where half of the dash is disassembled, this is NOT necessary. I pulled the driver side pod in about 15-20 minutes, with minimal disassembly.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Driver side mid-bass ready to go in


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Worth putting this "fast ring" on it??


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Looks good! Sure, if you can get it to fit... That is much more depth than you have.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

Anu2g said:


> Sweet. Got any pics?


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Removing that brace looks trivial, actually.


The instructions are well detailed on removing the pods. The metal bracket has some bolts to remove so you can rotate the pod out. If you need the instructions I believe I still have them or they are online.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

toneloc2 said:


> View attachment 287814
> View attachment 287815


Toneloc’s pods and door panels are awesome.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Toneloc’s pods and door panels are awesome.


Yea, those are badass.

I ended up taking that one panel off, which made life way easier for me. Rotating the pods in wasn't going too hot for me. I tried using Frost King, but these fast rings actually stuck to the grills much better. If I were to do it again, I'd probably leave the Hertz grills off the speaker. I had put them on because I thought I was going to be rotating the pods in.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Yea, those are badass.
> 
> I ended up taking that one panel off, which made life way easier for me. Rotating the pods in wasn't going too hot for me. I tried using Frost King, but these fast rings actually stuck to the grills much better. If I were to do it again, I'd probably leave the Hertz grills off the speaker. I had put them on because I thought I was going to be rotating the pods in.
> 
> View attachment 287877


Looking good! Did you get the problem with the head unit figured out?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Looking good! Did you get the problem with the head unit figured out?


Thanks! The replacement for thr faulty module from the harness kit is scheduled to arrive on Monday, so I should have that ironed out by Tuesday or Wednesday. I'll follow up with pics and a mini review once that's done.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

No pics today, unfortunately, but I was able to get the passenger pods in, run all the non power wires to the cargo tub, and clean up my dismantled interior. 

Hopefully I can get the Stinger unit good to go during the week, then next weekend build the amp rack!

The passenger pod was easy to take out, but as @DavidRam suggested, the front of the mid-bass gets REALLY close to the OEM grill. In fact the Hertz grills are pushing into the OEM grill and making it not sit flush with the glove compartment. I will need to readdress this later, as I'm not going to satisfied with the lack of flushness. Removing the Hertz grill is an option, but the mounting holes in my baffle will be compromised, so it's not completely trivial.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> No pics today, unfortunately, but I was able to get the passenger pods in, run all the non power wires to the cargo tub, and clean up my dismantled interior.
> 
> Hopefully I can get the Stinger unit good to go during the week, then next weekend build the amp rack!
> 
> The passenger pod was easy to take out, but as @DavidRam suggested, the front of the mid-bass gets REALLY close to the OEM grill. In fact the Hertz grills are pushing into the OEM grill and making it not sit flush with the glove compartment. I will need to readdress this later, as I'm not going to satisfied with the lack of flushness. Removing the Hertz grill is an option, but the mounting holes in my baffle will be compromised, so it's not completely trivial.


What I like about keeping the grill, is there is protection for the driver, and you don't have to guess/hope there is enough room for the speaker to move... 
Have you tried flipping the tab behind the frame?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> What I like about keeping the grill, is there is protection for the driver, and you don't have to guess/hope there is enough room for the speaker to move...
> Have you tried flipping the tab behind the frame?


Yea. I couldn't actually get the tab out, but I was still able to securely mount to the backside of the tab. If I could get the tab out, then I may be able to install a spacer, similar to what you did


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Yea. I couldn't actually get the tab out, but I was still able to securely mount to the backside of the tab. If I could get the tab out, then I may be able to install a spacer, similar to what you did


Did that give you the space you needed for the pod to not press against the dash?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> Did that give you the space you needed for the pod to not press against the dash?


It's good "enough" such that my wife and/or friends wouldn't notice it; but I can definitely notice it. I think I need to fit a spacer in there or install a bolt + double-nut, like you did. If I can recess it back 1cm or more, I should be okay.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

In between working on the stereo, I also put some new wheels on it.

Before:









During:









After:









There will be some more minor cosmetic mods, specifically to ditch the red accents. But I know this isn't the forum for that. Just a brief aside.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

HEY!! No jack stands?! J/k! I guess with 3 $800 SnapOn jacks it's ok... 

Wheels look awesome!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I would cry if my car fell off those jacks. I once had a wheel _come off my 350Z _when I was accelerating from a stoplight. I heard a loud thud and one corner of my car dropped low...and then (no joke) I see my wheel (which was a 19" Volk Racing SF-Challenge) rolling away from my car at increasing speed. My gut reaction was to get out of my car and chase after it, but I was smart enough to not do that (and instead call my brother to go searching for my wheel). Ever since then, I always torque my wheels myself after any service.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> I would cry if my car fell off those jacks. I once had a wheel _come off my 350Z _when I was accelerating from a stoplight. I heard a loud thud and one corner of my car dropped low...and then (no joke) I see my wheel (which was a 19" Volk Racing SF-Challenge) rolling away from my car at increasing speed. My gut reaction was to get out of my car and chase after it, but I was smart enough to not do that (and instead call my brother to go searching for my wheel). Ever since then, I always torque my wheels myself after any service.


Yep! Those stories and my own experiences, are why I do nearly everything myself on my cars, including oil changes...


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

To frame this conversation back into the context of this forum...though the dealer did not torque my lug nuts correctly, there also must have been considerable noise coming from that one hub, which I did not notice because my 2 10W3 Stealthbox powered by my PPI PCX-2200 was not allowing me to even hear loud exhaust / high flow cats. Had I _not _been blasting my stereo, I probably could have caught the issue before the wheel came off the Z.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Back on-topic...thinking forward a bit...should I be installing a capacitor for my tweeters? My initial thought is no, but I could just run the tweeter channels using the amp's high-pass, just for testing the initial configuration. Then I can set it to all-pass once the MiniDSP is fully configured.

Thoughts?

This is my first time configuring an active system. I do have an active system in my other car, but that was using one of Musicar NW's pre-configured/tuned kits.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

If I remember correctly the XD amps have a HP crossover that should be high enough to protect your tweeter. It’s been a few months since I installed my amp so I don’t remember off the top of my head.


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## ballistic1350 (Jan 16, 2015)

Personally id always put one in. Its cheap insurance for a stupid mistake


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> If I remember correctly the XD amps have a HP crossover that should be high enough to protect your tweeter. It’s been a few months since I installed my amp so I don’t remember off the top of my head.


Yea, the HP goes as high as 500Hz. I've labeled my wires pretty clearly, so I'm feeling good about just using the HP, to start out. But less confident in my DSP abilities, so might still be safer with a cap.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

ballistic1350 said:


> Personally id always put one in. Its cheap insurance for a stupid mistake


Cool. How do I pick a capacitor to use for this purpose? I'll do some searching around lunch time as well.


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## ballistic1350 (Jan 16, 2015)

Check this out


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Thank you. Seems like I'm about to go down the rabbit hole of determining my crossover frequencies. Which I was going to need to enter sooner or later


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

ballistic1350 said:


> Check this out


Seems like I need these: "Dayton Audio DMPC-25 25uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor" from www.parts-express.com!

I used 2x the resonant frequency of the ML 280.3 (900Hz * 2 = 1800Hz); using the equation from the video, with 3.3Ohm DC resistance, I got 26.77uF, rounded down to 25uF.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

After replacing the faulty Stinger/PAC harness module, everything works as it should with the Heigh10, and looks fantastic. All OEM controls (steering wheel, temp control, volume knob, on/off button, etc.) work as expected with adequate latency. Also swapped out the dash panels from plastic Rubi Red to black leather with red stitching (that's how the "Launch Edition" Gladiators came equipped).

Old:









In Progress:
















New:
















My first impressions are pretty solid. It looks fantastic in the dash and transforms the interior in only a positive way. It definitely looks like it belongs. The Vehicle Info tabs display significantly more information than the OEM unit did. Do I need all of that? No, but considering I was able to sell the lower model OEM unit for $450, the extra cost to get this unit was absolutely worth the upgrade. Also, the interface is easy to use, and transitioning between Android Auto and other apps/sources is very easy/quick. It launches straight into Android Auto (configurable), which I like. One minor gripe that is of note is that Android Auto runs at a lower resolution than the rest of the Stinger UI, so the result is everything is really big. It was a bit jarring at first, but I got used to it quickly. It would be nice if they modify that in a future firmware update. I think my mom and dad would actually prefer this lower res look, as it's _super _easy to read; but for us folks who still have our full vision, I'd definitely prefer a higher resolution.

I can't comment much on the audio (yet), as the only speakers wired to this are the OEM dash speakers and OEM rollbar speakers. The kick panel speakers are disconnected, because those are currently housing the Hertz mid-basses. Once I am done with the amp rack and speaker install, then I can let you know how it goes. As a reminder, I will be utilizing this head unit's variable optical out, into a MiniDSP 8x12 DL. So, I will be using the volume on the Stinger unit, but am not using its RCA outs.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Looks awesome, man!!!


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Sooooo jealous that your head unit is swappable and has an optical output.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

mfenske said:


> Sooooo jealous that your head unit is swappable and has an optical output.


Honestly, prior to ordering the JLR, when I was researching audio options (to decide which head unit to spec the car with), I was surprised that I could swap head units like back in the good ol' days. Optical out was just a bonus. I don't know that the optical out will actually sound better than RCA outs (not sure what kind of internal processing is going on inside the Stinger unit), but it certainly will make my install much easier.

That being said, I did break an optical cable during the install, and ended up replacing it with a right-angle optical wire, which made life _way _easier.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> Looks awesome, man!!!


Thanks! I sold my rubi red panels (for cheap) to an enthusiast from the JL Wrangler forum, who was stoked to find a pair. Love this (re)cycle of life!


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Looks awesome and is one of the options I’m definitely considering when I decide to ditch the factory radio. Looking forward to your take on the MiniDSP 8x12 because I’m guessing I’ll outgrow my current DSP’s capabilities and features.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Looks awesome and is one of the options I’m definitely considering when I decide to ditch the factory radio. Looking forward to your take on the MiniDSP 8x12 because I’m guessing I’ll outgrow my current DSP’s capabilities and features.


Thanks. I'll let you know! I got it as a result of David's experience, which was very positive. Also it seems like it will be much easier to tune, which is fantastic. I have Dirac Live at home, in my Emotive preprocessor. It worked some serious magic.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Made some progress today. Wired up the XD800/8, and the MiniDSP, but haven't actually tested anything, as the main 1/0AWG power line's circuit breaker is not connected to the battery yet.

Unfortunately, one of the Knu distribution blocks was missing the screws to lock the 4AWG power wire into them, so that is/will bottleneck my install of the sub amp. Really annoying...didn't think to check that when I received the package a few weeks ago.

The sub amp (XD1000/1) will go on top of the distribution blocks, covering most of the wires, and partially hovering over the 800/8.










The MiniDSP is a little crooked, so I'll have to fix that.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

Anu2g are you able to hook up an external dvd drive to the stinger HU?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

toneloc2 said:


> Anu2g are you able to hook up an external dvd drive to the stinger HU?


Yea, it has and extra HDMI in. It can also take several auxiliary cameras, using composite video cables.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Made some progress today. Wired up the XD800/8, and the MiniDSP, but haven't actually tested anything, as the main 1/0AWG power line's circuit breaker is not connected to the battery yet.
> 
> Unfortunately, one of the Knu distribution blocks was missing the screws to lock the 4AWG power wire into them, so that is/will bottleneck my install of the sub amp. Really annoying...didn't think to check that when I received the package a few weeks ago.
> 
> ...


I wish the 4 door had a deeper storage tub like the 2 door. Would make it much easier to install amps in the back. Looks like everything is coming along nicely and I saw either here or on the Jeep forum you got the problems with the head unit fixed! Did the MiniDSP come with the Umik-1 mic?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Yep, the Stinger unit is working well. The MiniDSP did come with the UMIK. I think you can order it with and without.

I don't know how long it will take to get the Knu distribution block screws. That is going to be my bottleneck now, lol. It's always something or another.

I didn't realize the 4 door's tub was smaller. Your sub enclosure options are WAY better, though. Plus JL makes those under seat amp racks for the 4 door. I'm going to use that for a sub amp in my brother's JLUR.

I read in the Jeep forum that those amp racks also work in the two door, but they don't fit the larger XD amps that I went with.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice build! My mother just bought an 80th anniversary edition Gladiator.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Nice build! My mother just bought an 80th anniversary edition Gladiator.
> 
> View attachment 288772
> View attachment 288773


Beautiful ride! I would have been interested in a Gladiator...love the look. But too long for my building's garage. Maybe one day..


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Nice build! My mother just bought an 80th anniversary edition Gladiator.
> 
> View attachment 288772
> View attachment 288773


Yes that’s a nice ride. I may at some point change to a Gladiator as I think it would fit some other needs for the family, camping, etc. I’d really like to build an off road trailer based on one of the old military 2 wheel trailers. Something I could store all the gear in and be ready to go on short notice.



Anu2g said:


> Yep, the Stinger unit is working well. The MiniDSP did come with the UMIK. I think you can order it with and without.
> 
> I don't know how long it will take to get the Knu distribution block screws. That is going to be my bottleneck now, lol. It's always something or another.
> 
> ...


Yeah the tub is not as deep as the 2 door and yes it’s true we have more options for subwoofers. I’ve heard the same thing about the amp racks. They are expensive and I was thinking of making the same thing from abs. I have my XD800/2 under the driver’s seat mounted to the floor. It’s definitely a tight fit, touches both sides of the seat rails but it’s tucked way under the seat and you don’t see it. I can slide the seat all the way forward and still adjust the amp which is nice.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Yes that’s a nice ride. I may at some point change to a Gladiator as I think it would fit some other needs for the family, camping, etc. I’d really like to build an off road trailer based on one of the old military 2 wheel trailers. Something I could store all the gear in and be ready to go on short notice.
> 
> 
> Yeah the tub is not as deep as the 2 door and yes it’s true we have more options for subwoofers. I’ve heard the same thing about the amp racks. They are expensive and I was thinking of making the same thing from abs. I have my XD800/2 under the driver’s seat mounted to the floor. It’s definitely a tight fit, touches both sides of the seat rails but it’s tucked way under the seat and you don’t see it. I can slide the seat all the way forward and still adjust the amp which is nice.


Cool. If it was helpful, and you don't already have a connection, my person should be able to get you around 20% off on JL products, including those amp racks. But I don't think they fit the XD800


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Cool. If it was helpful, and you don't already have a connection, my person should be able to get you around 20% off on JL products, including those amp racks. But I don't think they fit the XD800


Thank you. All my connections went away about 15 years ago when I stopped installing professionally and the shop I worked at closed about 5 years later.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

As I wait for these silly set screws that Knu forgot to include with my dist blocks, I was able to finalize the box design with Dave Marin @ Sound Authority. Here are some pics:





































Few things of note:
1) 45s on each side inside the box
2) 1.5 cubes; tuned to 30Hz. Everything inside the box, including the 45s, were included.
3) Down-firing; noted that the amount of space between bottom of box and baffle (and the port sharing a side with the feet) would impact the sound, but no more than cabin gain. We discussed possibly having various feet options, so I could test them out, but ultimately I chose aesthetic over configurability, as I thought the feet being an extension of the sides would look best. I didn't want a seam, if it could be avoided.
4) There will be a JL logo etched into the glass, lit in white. This logo is dual purpose, because this is going into a "JL" Wrangler.
5) Black carpeted on outside; black paint on inside
6) Rounded edges (not reflected in the 3D design)

While I haven't received the box yet (and therefore have not heard the box yet), the builder has made the design process quite fun!


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Everything is looking good. I remember building custom sub boxes for Jeeps when I was installing. It was usually tough because there wasn’t a lot of room behind the rear seat. Looking forward to seeing how it looks and your impression on how it sounds.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Thank you!

I had time to work today, but unfortunately, the set screws from the distribution block didn't come in yet, so I couldn't finish up the amp rack.

That being said, I spent some time making everything fit a bit better. Re-did the distribution block mounting...much better now. I bought some 2' bolt cutters, which made cutting the 1/0AWG a trivial task.

Here is a pic of the speaker amp wired, followed by a sample pic of what it will look like with the sub amp mounted (once I have the set screws).



















I uploaded DavidRam's tune, since he has a similar setup, just so I could test that everything is working. The mids and mid-basses are sounding good (still needs tuning, obviously). Still waiting on Valicar tweeter pods before doing the tweeters. Glad to be hearing music, though!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I put rubber cabinet feet as risers under the amp, which is allowing me to run the wires underneath it.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Wrapped up the amp rack. Just need the enclosure to come on, so I route the subwoofer wire. Also waiting on my cargo tub cover to come back...with plexiglass inserted into it  Lastly, my tweeter pods haven't come in yet, so did a little temp install with those.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

I’m interested in seeing what your tweeter pods look like. I’ve got my tweeters temporarily mounted in the same spot aimed at the dome light. Been thinking of making a new grill for the mid and tweeters.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> Wrapped up the amp rack. Just need the enclosure to come on, so I route the subwoofer wire. Also waiting on my cargo tub cover to come back...with plexiglass inserted into it  Lastly, my tweeter pods haven't come in yet, so did a little temp install with those.


Did you use rca Y cables on your bridged channels?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Did you use rca Y cables on your bridged channels?


Yep. And then I set the gains (for mid channels, mid-bass channels, and sub channel) using the JL method (voltmeter + test tone), and then I turned down the mids to match my tastes (just ear, no RTA). Left the tweeter gains at minimum.

I still need to setup REW and adjust amp gains using that, and then do the whole Dirac thing.

Currently, my crossovers are set at:
Mid-bass: 50Hz to 300Hz (note I do not have my subwoofer hooked up yet, hence 50Hz)
Mid: 300Hz to 4KHz (note that my mid is a cone, not dome; I started out at 600 and went lower, and the lower I went, the higher my sound stage came, since the mid is on the dash)
Tweeter: 4KHz+

Note: I am not an expert tuner and will be working with another forum member on my tune, once I have my sub enclosure and tweeter pods. But in the meanwhile, I'm just tinkering around.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Let the deadening begin...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

I don't know about you, but there is something therapeutic about doing sound deadening... It could be due to the placebo effect I anticipate. Lol


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Haha, yea...

I put some small strips of CLD all around front and rear, plus foam around where the sub will be. And then I used Design Engineering's Under Carpet, which is foam plus MLV, over the wheel wells and rear floor. Not total coverage, as I really wasn't enjoying cutting everything to size, hence why it doesn't look too hot.

I used Armorlite flooring in front, which is really awesome. It's foam plus MLV, topped with a waterproof grippy material, and has total coverage in front, all the way up the sides, tucking under the center console.































As far as how it sounds, the car definitely sounds different. It's still loud, since it's a soft top, but I hear mostly wind and other cars passing by, as opposed to tire noise.

Honestly, I just getting antsy waiting for my sub box to arrive, so I just wanted to feel like I was making progress.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Dude, you are killing it! Get it? "Deadening"... Ok, ok, I'll go back to my cage now. Lol


Seriously, you are going all out. Respect.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> Dude, you are killing it! Get it? "Deadening"... Ok, ok, I'll go back to my cage now. Lol
> 
> 
> Seriously, you are going all out. Respect.


Haha. Nice one. My wife said she didn't get the joke.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Haha. Nice one. My wife said she didn't get the joke.


I don't blame her... That's why I should stay in my cage!


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)




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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Morning Folks! I got my tweeter pods in last week, and put them in this past weekend. They are freaking huge, but I guess that's what I get with my tweeter selection. They look pretty good. Open to any feedback on positioning!


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

When I had my pods.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

toneloc2 said:


> When I had my pods.
> View attachment 292424
> View attachment 292425


Those look good! I see yours are a bit more angled than mine. Do you think I should angle mine in more? The reason I didn't angle them inwards as much is because they are already positioned a bit narrower than yours, being on top of the dash. I also didn't angle them up as much, since the dash is quite high.

Any thoughts here would help me? Trying to nail this as best I can before I move onto tuning.

Enclosure should be coming in a week or so, which is the last piece before tuning.

Thanks!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Morning Folks! I got my tweeter pods in last week, and put them in this past weekend. They are freaking huge, but I guess that's what I get with my tweeter selection. They look pretty good. Open to any feedback on positioning!
> 
> View attachment 292395
> View attachment 292396
> ...



Do you want to toe them in a little more?


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

More or less aiming them at the light that is over your right shoulder... Or there about.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Cool, done. It sounds a bit different than it did before, but I can't really say that it's better or worse. I guess I won't _really _know till the tune (and Dirac) are complete, so just trying to make sure everything is set up as best as it/I can for when tuning day comes.

Now, just anxiously awaiting the box.


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Looking good! Does the front double as a floor mat also? My tweeters, which are much smaller, are tucked into the corners next to the windshield aimed towards the dome light. I haven’t tried the other spot below the handles. I did try firing them directly into the windshield but I didn’t like that as much. I’ve got to build a grill for the mid and tweeters this summer as they are temporarily installed right now.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

i did mine in that place because when i ran some test sitting on top of midrage the image sucked were i placed them gave me a little wider stage and the image was way better just bolted to the lower part of a pillar. but that didn't last long, having both on pillars is so much better, and i was ok giving up my grab handles..


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Looking good! Does the front double as a floor mat also? My tweeters, which are much smaller, are tucked into the corners next to the windshield aimed towards the dome light. I haven’t tried the other spot below the handles. I did try firing them directly into the windshield but I didn’t like that as much. I’ve got to build a grill for the mid and tweeters this summer as they are temporarily installed right now.


Thanks. Yep, those Armorlite floors double as slush mats. Highly recommend. I was planning to buy slush mats anyways, so spending a bit extra to get these, with all the nice deadening, was well worth it. They look fantastic, too. I think my tweeter positioning is as close as I could get to yours, given the size of my tweeters. I basically tucked them into the corner as much as I could, without actually touching the windshield.



toneloc2 said:


> i did mine in that place because when i ran some test sitting on top of midrage the image sucked were i placed them gave me a little wider stage and the image was way better just bolted to the lower part of a pillar. but that didn't last long, having both on pillars is so much better, and i was ok giving up my grab handles..


Your setup is tempting to me. I do feel like the sound stage could be wider. My system is not tuned yet and Dirac has not been run, but I do find that the image could be a bit more "mesmerizing", if that makes sense. I will say that this set up is crystal clear with no distortion, and it feels like I could keep turning the volume up without any distortion. I guess that's a result of going active. In any case, what hardware do you think I'd need to buy to adjust my pods to try them below the grab handles? Also, is there any risk of guests/wife getting in the car and bumping the tweeter in your current layout? At the moment, I have a 2nd set of pods, so I could play around with those a bit.

Thanks guys!


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

When I bought my pods from that German guy I ordered the knuckles to mount that way I had more flexibility and believe me the wife will never hit them there. My current setup.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

toneloc2 said:


> When I bought my pods from that German guy I ordered the knuckles to mount that way I had more flexibility and believe me the wife will never hit them there. My current setup.
> View attachment 292812


Nice. I searched to see your new setup, and found those a-pillars a few min ago. Did you fab those yourself? That's beyond my abilities. I'm thinking a good in between might be to mount my current pods (without arm/knuckles) directly to the bottom of the grab handle.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Some pics of the box in progress (being built by Dave @ Sound Authority [fka High Output Enclosures] in Colorado Springs)


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

If any one would like to help me with alternator whine issues, I would be grateful.

Here are my findings so far:
So, here are my findings so far:

1. Both mids and tweeters are making the alternator whine. Doesn't seem like mid-basses are, but they might be and it's just hard to to tell

2. Disconnecting RCAs on the DSP side have no impact on the alternator whine, so it is definitely after the DSP.

3. So I think I can conclude that it is RCAs or amp grounding.

4. Unplugging any given driver's speaker wire at the amp eliminates alternator whine from that given driver.

I could validate that it is in fact the RCAs by pulling the RCAs on the amp side, but unfortunately I lacked a bit of foresight when mounting my amps...and I can't pull the RCAs out of the amp without dismounting the amp.

My RCAs are the KnuKonceptz Krystal Cables, which have very flexible ends and I think I might have pinched them when initially mounting. Does that seem like a viable source? Or does it have to be related to grounding?

Is there any way to validate the amp grounding using a DMM? That way I don't have to dismount the amp.

Thanks again!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Just as an update, I disassembled my amp rack yesterday and disconnected all the RCAs, and was still getting alternator whine! I even connected an extra tweeter directly to the amp in my trunk and had my wife rev the engine, and I could hear the whine. Dealer is sending me a new XD800/8; hopefully it was a defective amp. Should know by the end of the week. So many hiccups!

I may take the time to tidy up some of the wiring on this 2nd pass.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Slow progress on the box, but check out the cool looking plexiglass


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Example of it lit up; leaning towards plain ol'white.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

White does look great!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Very very slowly, but surely, my box is getting there...


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Looks like a Kicker L7 hole.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Looks like a Kicker L7 hole.
> 
> View attachment 294873
> View attachment 294874
> ...


That's an awesome box, man! How'd that sound?

My rectangle is actually for plexiglass...you can see the round cut for the 10W7 on the right


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Excellent! It's been pounding in my home theater since 2012.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Nice! Except for the Cowboys gear


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks!


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## skulboep (Nov 29, 2009)

Following this build.

I am currently planning a similar system install in my 2020 JLU Rubicon (Morel 6.5" 2-way Hybrid 62 up front, Morel 6.5" Hybrid Integra 62 in soundbar, ported Phoenix Gold 12" RSdC 124, JL Audio VX1000/5i, Alpine PDX4.100, PAC Audio AP4-CH41 R.2). 

I too will be using the Metra JP-1014 speaker pods for the 6.5" Morel woofers. My original plan was to Dynamat the Metra enclosures and stuff with Polyfil. Then I read your thread and discovered aperiodic vents. I am very intrugued. After looking at your pictures, I am a little confused as to why these need to be sealed (via epoxy or otherwise...) to the enclosure. It appears that there is another quarter-sized hole punched out in the rear of the enclosure? Wouldn't this have to be sealed also? How?

Lastly, what is purpose of adding wood speaker baffles on top of the enclosure? Wouldn't some high-quality foam baffle tape serve the same purpose?

Your build looks incredible. I will be happy if mine turns out half as nice as yours. 

Erik


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

skulboep said:


> Following this build.
> 
> I am currently planning a similar system install in my 2020 JLU Rubicon (Morel 6.5" 2-way Hybrid 62 up front, Morel 6.5" Hybrid Integra 62 in soundbar, ported Phoenix Gold 12" RSdC 124, JL Audio VX1000/5i, Alpine PDX4.100, PAC Audio AP4-CH41 R.2).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Erik! I pretty much modeled my build after another forum member's (@DavidRam), albeit with slightly different equipment. This forum is/was infinitely helpful for me.

In order for an aperiodic vent to properly do it's job, you have to seal off the enclosure/pod so that the only air going in and out does so through the aperiodic vent. I used some scrap plywood (left over from baffle) + epoxy to seal off the existing ports on the pod. Only on one of the two pods; the other pod I ended up putting the aperiodic vent over the existing port (so it was cut out anyway).

While gasketing tape would result in a solid seal (and should be done regardless), adding the wood baffle will result in a harder and more solid baffle, with less flex. This is definitely valuable. However, I'll note that it causes fitment issues on the passenger side. My glove compartment sticks out about an eighth of an inch right now and it bothers me. DavidRam came up with a trick to mount the top of the pod behind it's original mounting clip...as opposed to in front. I had trouble getting that to work, but I will eventually go back in and fix it.

Lastly, I think some forum member's would advise you against putting tweeters in the sound bar, as that will mess up your imaging. I did not put speakers in my sound bar, and I don't miss them. But it's a personal decision! Will you be able to run your rears active? I'm not familiar with how the VX DSP handles it's preouts.

Enjoy!


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## skulboep (Nov 29, 2009)

Ahhh, so you simply included the existing port hole in the vent cutout. That makes total sense. I wonder if there is a way to mount the wood baffle inside the pod such that the external pod dimensions are unaltered. This would slightly diminish enclosure volume but would make fitment easier. 

Thanks for the rec re: DavidRam's build. Checked out his thread earlier and it also looks amazing. You guys are true pros! 

I have yet to decide whether or not to run my system active and/or passive. The VX1000/5i is a 5-channel amp with integrated DSP that will send 75Wx4 to the Morel front components in an active setup. These channels can be bridged to produced 200Wx2 if I run the fronts passive. The 5th channel will send 600W to the sub @ 2 ohm. 

My Alpine PDX-4.100 is being re-used from an older build. My plan was to bridge the amp to produce 200Wx2 for the soundbar Morel coaxials. The DSP integrated within the VXi is quite advanced. It has preouts that will send signal to the PDX allowing full DSP control of both amplifiers and all speakers. 

I do enjoy rear fill when properly employed and never really considered deleting the soundbar speakers (...especially since I already have all the equipment). While I have read high-praise for expertly tuned active systems, I admittedly have no experience tuning an active system and am apprehensive about the skills/work/tools necessary to properly set one up. I am admittedly not much of a "tinkerer" and appreciate that a passive system may be more "plug-and-play." That being said, I have never auditioned an active system. I therefore have no way to know what I'm potentially missing out on. 

I am also concerned about the amount of power necessary to overcome road/wind noise inherent to the Wrangler, especially with the top off. Even with proper sound deadening, I figured that a large amount of power would be necessary to cleanly drive the speakers with the top off. Taking current loss into account, a bridged passive setup allows me to run more power to each speaker than would an active setup.

Is there something I am missing here? I assumed (...possible wrongly) that the acoustic superiority inherent to an active setup would be negated given the harsh listening environment of an unroofed Wrangler. 

Would love to hear your thoughts, experiences and advice. Also please correct any of my misconceptions. 

You guys rock!

Erik


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

skulboep said:


> Ahhh, so you simply included the existing port hole in the vent cutout. That makes total sense. I wonder if there is a way to mount the wood baffle inside the pod such that the external pod dimensions are unaltered. This would slightly diminish enclosure volume but would make fitment easier.
> 
> Thanks for the rec re: DavidRam's build. Checked out his thread earlier and it also looks amazing. You guys are true pros!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the sharing your thoughts. Definitely don't compare me to DavidRam; his abilities re: car stereo are several tiers above mine.

You have all the equipment to run your entire setup active...even if you don't know how to tune, I'd still absolutely run everything active. Volume wouldn't really be a consideration, because you'll be providing better power to each driver in an active setup (it won't be running through a passive filter). Also, the tweeter (dash) and mid (kick) locations are not close to each other, so you will benefit a ton from being able to time align those in an active setup. It's pretty easy to do that part of the tuning, just by watching the VX tutorial videos that JL has made. You simply measure the distance from your seat to each driver (there are other methods, but this method requires the least knowledge imho).

Separately, in my 2-door, with just my 3-way active front components and no sub (yet), I have not had any volume issues with my top down. I've probably only gone 40ish top down with volume up, though I'm pretty sure if I was going 70ish, the volume could still keep up.

Either way, whether or not you run rear fill, I'd def run active since you have all the gear. Friendly folks on this forum can help you sort out the tuning.

Re: baffle inside the pod, that could work! The driver side doesn't have any fitment issues FWIW.

Hope this helps!


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I vote all active setup too. You have total control over all the crossover settings (frequency and slopes).


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I got a replacement XD800/8 (non-defective this time!) and re-wired my rack. I used wire ferrules on my distribution block...feels way more secure. I used my 24" bolt cutter to crimp the ferrules. I put the XD1000/1 on the bottom, and then mounted the XD800/8 on top. 

Since my new setup has the 800/8 turned 180 degrees from the prior layout, I needed longer RCAs. Went with Stinger 8000s.

















I'm waiting for my cargo tub cover, which is having a plexiglass window put into it. The window should extend left-to-right from the left edge of the DSP (not including RCAs) to the right edge of the amps. It should extend vertically from the RCA outputs on the DSP (just the connectors, not wires) to the top of the JL logo. So none of the wires should be visible through the glass, unless looking at a near parallel angle.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Off-topic: Had a little bit of _other _work done on the car during the last couple weeks:

1) Suntek Ultra Matte PPF on the whole car
2) Swapped out the Rubicon red accents (side badging/decals, front/rear tow hooks) for black and/or green
3) Paint-matched beadlock rings on the wheels
4) Bull bar + clear side markers + LED fogs
5) Tinted taillights (everything except the reverse light cut out)































Really just need this box and cargo tub cover to come in to end this heavily delayed audio build!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

How do I double like this ^^^ post?!


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

DavidRam said:


> How do I double like this ^^^ post?!


Haha, by liking it and replying to it. Thanks!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Anu2g said:


> Haha, by liking it and replying to it. Thanks!


Me


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)




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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

After a slightly more than 4 month wait, I've finally received my sub enclosure from Dave Marin @ Sound Authority. He shipped it from Colorado Springs, packed like a boss.
























The plexiglass is the nicest glass that I've ever seen in person; it's a 3D JL Logo that he CNCed onto the glass. There is a lot more depth than the pics show.

















The box is 3/4" Birch Ply, with a double baffle; all corners have 45s, and the port bend is 45 degrees as well. The outside of the box is carpeted entirely, except for the insides of the legs, with seams going up the sides, and the inner legs are painted in a light bedliner type of paint that matches the carpeting nicely. The gritty paint goes into the port as well.










It's 1.5 cubes net, ported at 30Hz. I'm excited to put the 10W7 in there and give it a test bump. Also, excited to light it up (has LEDs inside).


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Got the sub in the car, plus PEQ (thanks @Truthunter for the help/teaching), and ran Dirac, matching to a Half Whitledge curve. It sounds clean/crisp, but is too bright (and not enough bass) for my tastes. Will be trying out different curves over the next week or two.































Here's a shot of the REW measurement of the sub performance, plus the PEQ (and expected):










In order to hit the Half Whitledge, we had to apply -20db on the sub; though I think I'm going to reclaim some of those dBs.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

For any Jeep folks that are interested, the crossover points we landed on were:

Subsonic @ 24Hz (BW48)
Sub-to-midbass @ 90Hz LR24 (Mid-basses were adjusted down to 80Hz, to get as close as we could to the desired XO)
Mid-bass-to-mid @ 350Hz LR24
Mid-to-tweeter @ 4000Hz LR24 (RM was adjusted down to 3700 to achieve the desired XO)


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I would think open air Jeep bass would require more cone area seeing that you are not getting any cabin gain.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

BP1Fanatic said:


> I would think open air Jeep bass would require more cone area seeing that you are not getting any cabin gain.


Intuitively, I agree...but that's why we went with down-firing (both the driver and the vent). I haven't tried it out top down yet, but I'm expecting to make another preset for top-down action


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Anu2g said:


> For any Jeep folks that are interested, the crossover points we landed on were:
> 
> Subsonic @ 24Hz (BW48)
> Sub-to-midbass @ 90Hz LR24 (Mid-basses were adjusted down to 80Hz, to get as close as we could to the desired XO)
> ...


I’ve got very similar crossover points for my 3 way, but a little different for my subwoofer to midbass. I’m still getting familiar with REW and taking measurements so that might change.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is one good looking Jeep! Very nice progress too.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

chithead said:


> That is one good looking Jeep! Very nice progress too.


Thanks man! The system has been complete for some time now, including the tune (went with a Full Whitledge). 

But, there are some new mods coming soon that I'll share in a week or two


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Put a nice little upgrade in this weekend, thanks to @toneloc2 

















The mid is in a fully sealed pod. The sound stage is very noticeably improved; both width and height. Everything sounds more transparent (had the mid firing up into my upright windshield before). I haven't redone time alignment, XOs, nor EQ yet, so I'm pretty excited to see how that turns out. Love the look, as well.


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## toneloc2 (Nov 29, 2015)

glad you like.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

I didn’t know you had the heighten.

i hope your optical to the dsp! That’s a dope setup


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

oabeieo said:


> I didn’t know you had the heighten.
> 
> i hope your optical to the dsp! That’s a dope setup


Thanks man; yep, optical to DSP. I need to post a Mk2 build thread. I'll get that going in a week or two once some new goodies arrive.


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

So what’s next…


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## edouble101 (Dec 9, 2010)

Install looks great! I am a huge off-roading fan and your Jeep looks very capable


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

oabeieo said:


> So what’s next…


Haha. I need to post a v2 thread some time soon. A lot has changed (as you well know)



edouble101 said:


> Install looks great! I am a huge off-roading fan and your Jeep looks very capable


Thank you! Tried to keep the rig on brand.


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

I'm looking to sell the subwoofer box and sub (10W7) from this build, in case any one following this is interested


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Anu what are you going to do now. Dang buddy you change stuff more then I do. Lol 
I love it 

perhaps a big sealed or IB…


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

Um …… text me back silly 

What happened are you okay? 😌


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## mumbles (Jul 26, 2010)

Since my attempt at attending @bertholomey May GTG failed miserably, I look forward to seeing/hearing your Jeep at @naiku Sept GTG!


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## teh_squirrel (Jan 16, 2020)

Anu2g said:


> I'm looking to sell the subwoofer box and sub (10W7) from this build, in case any one following this is interested



What kind of box do you have the SI subs in and had you considered trying them sealed?


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

teh_squirrel said:


> What kind of box do you have the SI subs in and had you considered trying them sealed?


It's in a downfiring ported enclosure (30Hz). I hadn't considered sealed because my Jeep has a soft top (no cabin gain, only boundary gain). So I wanted ported to have solid low-end given lack of cabin gain, and down-firing to add some boundary gain, especially when my top is down. Also down-firing is kind of the only way that would work in a 2 door Jeep without removing rear seats or firing directly into the tailgate. @DavidRam had tested out different layouts in his 2-dr Jeep as well and concluded that down-firing was best. Though he went sealed (he had a hard top on his Jeep).


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## Anu2g (Nov 4, 2020)

Created a v2 build log, for anyone interested in my latest and greatest: '21 2dr Wrangler - Build Log v2 - MiniDSPx2...


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## bertholomey (Dec 27, 2007)

Missed this one, but now I got it - in time for V2! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## oabeieo (Feb 22, 2015)

That’s right boys, no special effects or bells and whistles….. this ain’t no dsp with a build in epicenter (lol) and a bunch of do dads, it’s strictly SQ only!


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