# 1997 Audi A4, full build



## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

The platform I've chosen is the 1997 Audi A4 Quattro (058a AEB 1.8L Turbo, manual 5 spd transmission) commonsly known as a "B5 TQM"


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

Sounds: 
-Alpine IDA-X100
-Alpine PMA-H00 (Imprint Processor)
-Alpine 6 disc Minidisc Changer
-Alpine 12 disc CD changer
-Audiocontrol ESP-3
-MB Quart PAB5400 5 channel amplifier
-MB Quart PAB4100 4 channel amplifier
-Alpine 3522 2 channel amplifier
-MB Quart QSD 213 "Q-line" 5.25/tweeter component set
-Kicker RMB8 8" midbss
-MB Quart Q-line 4"/tweeter center channel
-MB Quart 6x9 (rear fill/midbass)
-MB Quart 12" sub (1)
-MB Quart 8" subs (2)
Optima Yellow top, Streetwires installation accessories, Stinger power cable + 1 stray RF capacitor


Full V-band Garrett/Tial GT3076R (stainless steel turbine housing), Megasquirt II v3.0 standalone EMS, 72lbs. injectors, 3" straight exhaust, numerous "go fast" modifications, full coilover suspension, Stoptech BBK, etc...


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-79.jpg[/IMG




[IMG]http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/kntstealth93/photo-79.jpg

Holy Crap what a mess...

(gotta be able to test this stuff out before going balls-deep into an install... )


basically, I'm in the middle of the kick pod build, the EMS computer build (Megasquirt is a DIY standalone EMS ECU that you build yourself from a PCB and components. The base code is burned in already, but from there, it's basically a "from scratch" build. Also just about to place orders for stainless tubing/mandrel bends/flanges for equal length full V-band turbo header (321 stainless or Inconel, haven't decided yet)

The car is a DD, and the plan is to build a reliable 475+ AWHP Street-brawler out of this mild-mannered (appearing) sleeper


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

car as it sits behind me...


(dropped about as low as I can comfortably go for street use, wheels are 18x8 Kosei/235/40/18 Mich. Pilot Sport II's, and weigh only a bit over 35lbs per corner. -they are ridiculously light...)

I've also got a "side project" on my electronics bench. I bought a couple cases of NOS Streetwires Musica 500 interconnects, and need to cut some down to usable lengths.

































Can anyone tell me how to solder these? I have tried everything I can think of, but end up f-ing them up at every attempt. Also, what is the "right" tool for stripping this type of cable?


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## Kpg2713 (Feb 10, 2008)

I think in order to modify the length of those rca's you would want to buy new rca connectors and cut the old ones off at the length you need and add the new ones after.


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## Mike Hall (Jun 30, 2006)

Nice install. I need to find some tips on removing the panels from my Avant as I sure dont want to screw anything up. The car is so tight i hate taking it apart. LOL I want to go ahead and deaden the doors and hatch area and then do the floor later on. I dont feel like removing the seats just yet. 

Mike


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## HondAudio (Oct 19, 2006)

JK35 said:


>


Very slick, I like it


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

Kpg2713 said:


> I think in order to modify the length of those rca's you would want to buy new rca connectors and cut the old ones off at the length you need and add the new ones after.


Actually, desoldering isn't so bad... I've been using a desolder iron (one handed Radio Shack $11/45w) and then solder wick with my Weller WTCPT and a 800F deg. 0.25" wide "screwdriver" tip, and it sucks every bit of solder off the barrel in no time flat. 
-trying to strip/prep the wire, and setup for the reassembly is where I'm failing. The gold barrel is quite large, and requires alot of heat. By the time it's hot enough to flow solder (Kester "245" 63/37 @ .015" dia. and a #66 core) It is already cooking the insulation on the tediously prepared cable. -the stripping is extremely difficult, as the center insulator (tiny, -no problem soldering it into the center pin) is stripped back .125", the exterior sheathing is stripped back 1.25", then the ground conductor (the one I'm having trouble with, -braided "chinese handcuff" conductor that I can't solder back onto the barrel)is cut back 13/16", pulled through barrel and "mushroomed/fanned down over the inner edge of the barrel. this is where I heat it up, ant the cable begins to melt by the time the barrel is hot enough to flow even the tiny (low melting point) high quality solder I'm using. 
I have also tried a 100w/140w pistol iron, with the notion that I could heat the barrel fast enough to flow at the top of the barrel, before the heat could travel downward and again, melt the cable. -no go... I called Streetwires, and like everything else, these were produced on industrial manufacturing machinery. If I had an idea exactly how the robotic solder procedure went, I might stand a chance at duplicating parts of the process, of course Streetwires couldn't tell me any details, as the factory that actually makes these is in China (Streetwires still makes a good deal of their own machined components -fuse dist. blocks, Inter-Lok terminals, battery terminals, etc... here in The USA ) 
BTW, if anyone here needs any Streetwires products, hit me up, The Streetwires gear shown in the photo (lying loose in my trunk) represents about 10% of what I have. -I basically ordered by the case, and have used pretty much all I can use. I have more Streetwires inventory than most Car Audio shops keep on hand -From Inter-Loks to battery terminals to fuses / "clip-its" / fuses. -tons of the stuff  

Back to the matter at hand, though... any other suggestions as to how to solder (specifically the "chinese handcuff" ground conductor to the barrel of the RCA barrel? Right tool to use to strip the interconnect cable?


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

Mike, the seats come out very easily. -no tools required...
simply slide the seat all the way back, reach down between your feed, center of slider release mechanism, and there's a retainer clip that you simply pinch together and pull out. -don't loose it, it's a tiny little guy and since it's spring steel, has a tendency to run away and hide 
pull the little clip out, then slide the seat full forward and the seat is free-you'll then unplug any wiring and jocky the seat out of the tracks, lift it out of the car, -rinse & repeat for the other side.

You're bang-on correct that these cars are "tight", and once you pull a few parts off, you're going to see that repeated assembly/disassembly is going to have no effect on your car remaining this way. -so long as you follow the correct steps and don't F--- up anything. Audizine /Audiforums, Audiworld, VWvortex are good places to find a manual. I downloaded every thing needed within about an hour. 

Door panels are a snap to remove/install. easier than ANY car I've ever worked on. the window/motor/upper frame comes off as one piece! -very slick! 








after removing the int. panel, there are only 4 torx head fasteners door lock rod (bare hand removal) and one electrical socket (bare hand removal)

A word of advice: Buy a HIGH quality set of Torx SOCKETS, Torx BITS, metric hex SOCKETS and metric hex BITS before attempting to remove anything. -use a torque wrench for reassembly... -do not overtighten anything. despite how "wrong" many of the torque specs will seem to you. -VAG know what they're doing... 
If you take your doors down to the shell like I did in the photo, make sure and matchmark the 4 torx head fasteners, and look for aluminum shims which you'll want to matchmark with (preferrably) a marking scribe or (less preferrably, and you'll have to take great care not to smudge off the writing) a freshly sharpened pencil) there is adjustment in the entire assembly, and you'll want it to align correctly without having to re-figure everything from scratch. Matchmarking these 4 points + any shims you find will allow this to go back together just as quickly as it comes off!
Best wishes, and if you need any help feel free to ask. If I don't know, I know where to find out


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

HondAudio said:


> Very slick, I like it


thanks Hondaudio


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## m3gunner (Aug 6, 2008)

Any updates?


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

I just wanna know where you got an alpine MD changer??? I thought I was the only person that still uses them. It was a sad day when I pulled my sony MD changer out and sold it. I'd love to come across one if you know where another is.


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

I bought the Alpine MD changer in Japan. no updates for a LOOOONG time, due to the car being "fully built" (800+ AWHP) I've had to pull the sub enclosure and amps due to the install design conflicting with the new performance components (fuel surge tank and fuel pumps/braided stainless lines everywhere + a 20# Nitrous cylinder)
-SO! it's back to the drawing board.
The sub (or subS... I'll either use the same single 12" or may try two 8" subs instead) will be in the same general location, but the amps have yet to be determined.
I'd really like to have each amp installed flush into the backs of the rear [fold down] seats. anyone here done this without ruining the seats? I'm a bit worried that installing the amps like this would result in some very uncomfortable back seats...
any ideas?


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## vwtoby (Oct 28, 2005)

any updates?


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## Indiansprings (Dec 2, 2009)

Man, thats alot going on at once.


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## JK35 (Oct 16, 2008)

Mostly engine, transmission and suspension mods during the past several months, also installed full body kit and am currently installing Panasonic PDRC system (Panasonic Toughbook CF28, Vehicle Dock, Auxiliary Touchscreen monitor and auxiliary backlit in-vehicle keyboard. (all Panasonic components)
This works VERY well with the AEM EMS which is a story in and of itself...
(This is the first Audi A4 to have a fully functional/working AEM EMS. It is an AEM 30-1900U "race box" EMS and the other AEM unit seen mounted below the EMS in the pass side footwell is an AEM TwinFire CDI ignition. Since it is a universal "race" EMS a full harness had to be built for the vehicle (all milspec of course  ) and then getting everything in the car to work without a factory ECU was a real challenge. The initial configurations and setups took a few months, since there was absolutely NOTHING available to download from anyone/anywhere... But, I suppose the end justifies the means, as I am currently in the mid to high 400 all wheel horsepower range, and that is WITHOUT the use of the direct port nitrous, WITHOUT the aid of alcohol injection and WITHOUT professional tuning assistance -I've got it running, got everything working (factory instruments, electronics, A/C, etc...) and begun to make some decent power levels by the "seat of my pants"

Now that I'm this far along, the subwoofer enclosure had to come out to make room for the Nitrous cylinder and a few other additional components in the trunk.

I am also STRONGLY considering switching out my MB Quart Amplifiers in exchange for a few Alpine PDX amps due to their compact size and stackability. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about these?
The MBQ amps have suited me just fine, but they are un-necessarily HUGE... 

I am also looking for an Alpine PXA-H701
Does anyone here know if this would be compatible with my Alpine PXA-H100 Imprint processor? I love what the Imprint and it's software does for the system, but I would really like to have true Dolby Digital 7.1 capability for watching DVD's. THe auxiliary touchscreen is mounted right on the dash where the pass side airbag used to be (car is getting a full certified cage soon) so along with a fairly good sound system compete with a dedicated center channel system, I have this huge LCD flatscreen mounted right to the dash. -IT's screaming for a surround sound processor! I just need to be sure I can effectively switch between normal audio and surround configurations without any component conflicts. I'd appreciate any info anyone can provide on this.

As for the trunk, the goal here since the beginning of the build was to retain trunk space AND to allow a fullsize spare to fit in the spare tire well! As you can see in one of todays pics, there is a surge tank, fuel pump, pre-filter and a lot of -AN fittings and braided stainless hose in the center chamber I built into the spare tire well. YES, a fullsize spare fits, but I am currently working out the plans for a new fiberglass (possibly carbon fiber, haven't decided yet...) so that everything can fit nicely into the trunk. It lookslike the dock and laptop will have to be mounted into the trunk too, as there is just not enough space in the cabin.
There are a ton of miscellaneous pics on my photobucket page here
Pictures by kntstealth93 - Photobucket
stop in and check 'em out 

Happy Holidays!


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## wicked-cricket (Jan 20, 2010)

Any updates? I'm pretty sure you ditched the door speakers, huh?


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## th3disturbed1 (Oct 4, 2009)

As for the PDX amplifiers, I've never had a problem with mine shutting down for any reason and it sounds great. My friend can hear the "hiss" it gives off but I can't. Lucky me :laugh:


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