# solder vs wire nuts



## trunks9_us (Oct 25, 2007)

Ok I have used both I have not heard a difference in sq the only thing I have been told is the there is a lower resistance by soldering.

Why would people solder vs wire nuts?

I use wire nuts because I upgrade my hu often and soldering would be a waste of time. I have been told it is dangerous to use wire nuts and not solder or crimp. I could always do t-taps but still time consuming re tapping the new wires.

I been doing this for 3 years now using the same wire nuts on different wiring harness and have never had a problem with them coming off like someone said they would. So why is it that no one would uses them? I have used them on 3 different vehicles and no problems ever.

So feel free to chime in about these wire nuts and why they are bad and why they would not be as good as soldering since you are tying the wires together.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

Good for U ! there is a faster way than twisting those nuts on too!


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

As long as they don't come undone, I can't see why using wire nuts would pose a problem.


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## trunks9_us (Oct 25, 2007)

a$$hole said:


> Good for U ! there is a faster way than twisting those nuts on too!


what is that?


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## freemind (Sep 11, 2008)

They make nuts for wire?

Thats just well, nuts


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## nineball (Jan 17, 2008)

freemind said:


> They make nuts for wire?
> 
> Thats just well, nuts













for connecting hu wires i use these:

Crimp-On Snap Connectors (10-Pack) - RadioShack.com

cheap and easy, and secure as well. plus once you have them installed on the factory harness side it makes changing hus a snap.


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## blazeplacid (May 19, 2008)

most wire nuts are not made for use in applications where vibration occurs

not made for car use anywhere, audio or not

they make work, but they aren't made for it


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## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

I always solder and heat shrink. Wire nuts are good for a quick connection on solid wire. But if you look at the inner portion of the nut, you'll see a threaded area. This thread is meant to cut into the solid wire for a better connection, cuts stranded wire into seperate pieces. Plus a wire nut offers no protection from the elements and is not good for areas with vibration. The main reason I choose not to use wire nuts is for connection properties, a term we used to call bird caging where the strand of wire seperate and are no longer in contact with each other, little air gaps.

If you change HU's enough that you want to make quick wiring changes then I would suggest a small terminal strip something like the Weidmueller SAK series, lots of folks make them Allen Bradely, Pheonix Contactors. They also make a crimp lug desgned for the size wire you use to fit correctly into the terminal for maximum connection. And they come in different colors to allow color coding, fuseable, linked with cross bars for grounding, you name it they'll probably have it.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

fyi.. wire nuts are approved for use on stranded wire....check the N.E.C.

but for automotive use...i personally wouldn't


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## xb_guy (Oct 30, 2009)

Not that I'm trying to stir stuff up, but according to Audioque, "nothing beats a twisted, copper to copper, mechanical connection" i.e. wire nuts. link here

I have no idea if it's actually true though. I haven't used wire nuts since system #1 that was about 14 years ago (I'm on system #3 LOL!) thought. Normally, I crimp type connectors, terminal strips, or solder and heat shrink depending on what and where I'm connecting.


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## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)




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## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> fyi.. wire nuts are approved for use on stranded wire....check the N.E.C.
> 
> but for automotive use...i personally wouldn't


NEC is a guide line for commercial business. It's part of the NFPA and addresses electrical installations from a safety stand point, not relaibility. In many industries, the NEC is used only as that, a guidline. While they may approve of certian practices, from a reliability stand point, many business go past them.

I work in an industry who uses both high voltage and low level signals. The NEC does not cover things that pop up in all applications.

We don't approve of wire nuts in any application other than 240 volts and below electrical, mainly 120volt building wiring. Any other signal has to be terminated in a more reliable fashion.

While you may hook up a light fixture using wire nuts, that fixture is not going to be prone to vibration and the elements.

The Coast Gaurd has electrical codes for marine vessels, I don't know of any agency that cover cars.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Seriously? Wire nuts? Come on. It's just common sense. Would you just twist the wires and electrical tape them? People do that too, that doesn't make it right. Like I said, common sense will tell you what is right to do in your car. A proper Crimp, Euro Barrier Strips, Soldering. These are all much better methods than simply twisting wires into a wire nut. As for the Audioque link, I understand their logic, but it's still not an appropriate form of connection for an automotive environment. Period. It does the same thing that a propper crimp should do.


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## SoundChaser (Apr 3, 2009)

Wrap with some good electrical tape and it should be fine.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

i was not saying that NEC applies to automotive....just that if wire nuts ''cut stranded wire'' i seriously doubt that w-nuts would be acceptable for stranded, if it were true...
but like i stated...i personally would not use wire nuts in a car .


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

goodstuff said:


>


X2


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

DaveRulz said:


> Seriously? Wire nuts? Come on. It's just common sense. Would you just twist the wires and electrical tape them? People do that too, that doesn't make it right. Like I said, common sense will tell you what is right to do in your car. A proper Crimp, Euro Barrier Strips, Soldering. These are all much better methods than simply twisting wires into a wire nut. As for the Audioque link, I understand their logic, but it's still not an appropriate form of connection for an automotive environment. Period. It does the same thing that a propper crimp should do.


we had a tech who thought that twisted/taped connections were ''good enough''

now 6-7 years later, we still get the monthly[after hours] phone call from jobs he did and 90% of the time the problem is traced to his twisted/taped connections that have oxidized.
soldering or a proper crimp is the way to go


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

If i was doing it for someone else it would always be solder and heat shrink...always.

But for my own car if i was swapping stuff out alot wire nuts would be possible, or bullet connectors.


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## Chrisjbell (Oct 19, 2009)

For automotive, I'd vote for solder or a crimp. Taped on wire nuts would probably work, but I have seen them come off on agricultural equipment (used to be a mechanic working on tractors and big mowers). I used them a few times in areas where I couldn't get to the connection easily - they're great for that. After I had a couple fall of I used tape, which worked fine. But I would have done a crimped or soldered connection if I could have. Personal preference, I guess.


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## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

stinky06 said:


> i was not saying that NEC applies to automotive....just that if wire nuts ''cut stranded wire'' i seriously doubt that w-nuts would be acceptable for stranded, if it were true...
> but like i stated...i personally would not use wire nuts in a car .


The NEC has a lot of good info, but at times contradicts itself. Twisting of wire for a connection is not recognized bt the NEC. But what happens when you use a wire nut? The way they get around it is by leaving it up to the manufacturer of the connection and following the manufacturers installation directions.

Again NEC guidelines are from a safety stand point. Does the NEC allow you to solder a ground?

If you look in the connections for the safety ground in a home, chance are you'll see these wires twisted together several times long enough to be an inch or so long and most inspectors will turn a blind eye to it. NEC does not recognize this type of connection, only a compression connection, a mechanical bond. You hook a solid wire to a stranded with a wire nut and the stranded simply twists around the solid wire, yet they don't recognize twisting???


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## b0ssman (Dec 15, 2009)

I get the vehicle specific wiring kit, and solder the kit to the radio harness. Heat shrink them afterwards or electrical tape is ok too. But I would not trust wire nuts, or a basic twist and tape. And if you are crimping connectors, try to use a better crimper than the one that simply crushes and ovals out the connector. Get yourself a Klein crimper for $20 at home depot.


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## Banegio (Nov 28, 2009)

I found myself using quite a few of these for low current applications.
Even for speakers, I would solder one side of the wire to the speaker and the other side into this plug for easy but secure connection.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

THESE: 









are awesome. Or Anderson PowerPoles. Wirenuts are for houses, silly trunks.


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

I am guilty of using wire nuts on my test bench.:blush:


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## King Nothing (Oct 10, 2005)

I always use bullet connectors


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## The J (Oct 27, 2009)

xb_guy said:


> Not that I'm trying to stir stuff up, but according to Audioque, "nothing beats a twisted, copper to copper, mechanical connection" i.e. wire nuts. link here
> 
> I have no idea if it's actually true though. I haven't used wire nuts since system #1 that was about 14 years ago (I'm on system #3 LOL!) thought. Normally, I crimp type connectors, terminal strips, or solder and heat shrink depending on what and where I'm connecting.


What I do is twist or hook the wires together so that they have a good mechanical connection before soldering them. I think the idea is that you don't want to just blob some solder on two wires that happen to be near each other since the solder has a much higher resistance that copper (I don't know the values off the top of my head, though).




benny said:


> THESE:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was going to ask about using those or the high-current Traxxas ones. They're used in R/C cars that bounce around all over the place, so they would work here too, right?


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## mazdasongs (Oct 29, 2009)

I used wire nuts back in the day, something happened, shorted something and my dash lights stopped working. 

If you don't want to crimp or solder, and want something resuable, I would look into posi locks or posi taps, more expensive but prob cheaper than fixing some unknown short.


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## xb_guy (Oct 30, 2009)

benny said:


> THESE:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good info everyone. Would it be ok to use something like THIS as a quick way to disconnect say a subwoofer box? I got 2 of the 50A ones, and each sub should see about 250W.


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## mazdasongs (Oct 29, 2009)

xb_guy said:


> Good info everyone. Would it be ok to use something like THIS as a quick way to disconnect say a subwoofer box? I got 2 of the 50A ones, and each sub should see about 250W.


Couldn't you just use banana plugs? The terminal cups have receptors built in.


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## xb_guy (Oct 30, 2009)

mazdasongs said:


> Couldn't you just use banana plugs? The terminal cups have receptors built in.


The trouble with the banana plugs is that I would have live, exposed terminals in the cargo area of my car when ever the box was taken out. I've already had one amp fire, and I'd like to not have another.  My thought was this way at least the ends would be covered if I needed to haul some stuff.

Does that mean I made a bad decision?


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## KAPendley (Nov 19, 2007)

The OP really does belong in the Dumb Question forum. Until there is a ****ing Stupid Question forum anyway.


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## Austin (Mar 12, 2009)

The J said:


> I was going to ask about using those or the high-current Traxxas ones. They're used in R/C cars that bounce around all over the place, so they would work here too, right?



Ya the would work fine. They have an extremely snug fit when connected. If you wanted to be extra sure then some electrical tape around them but that is way over kill. from my experience i have never had one of these come loose on my r/c cars.


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## meelo (Jul 2, 2007)

i don't like to use wire nuts just based on the fact that:
1. they aren't that great in tight places. kinda bulky
2. tho they may seem to come together well they aren't great things to put into a car.
3. I think there is more benefit to using crimps with quick disconnects. they ultimately become the best swapping out without you wearing out the wires or having to make them shorter every time you choose to change something.
4. soldering is great, i love it, but i hate getting an iron into my car areas unless i have to. (or i'm lazy and crimping is easier).

but i would not use wirenuts unless it was temp and i was trying to prove a theory....


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## KAPendley (Nov 19, 2007)

I dont understand why wire connections are considered "temporary". How often are you guys swapping out HU's and **** anyway? I would prefer a PERMANENT solution, and one that is STILL easy to UNDO need be. Crimps or solder. Why is there even a debate on this? You do it right, or its freakin wrong. Just because someone has "never had a problem with wire nuts" does NOT make it RIGHT!!

It's like saying I put my brake pads on backwards, but the car still stops........for now.
Shaddup with stupid **** already!!


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## gijoe (Mar 25, 2008)

KAPendley said:


> I dont understand why wire connections are considered "temporary". How often are you guys swapping out HU's and **** anyway? I would prefer a PERMANENT solution, and one that is STILL easy to UNDO need be. Crimps or solder. Why is there even a debate on this? You do it right, or its freakin wrong. Just because someone has "never had a problem with wire nuts" does NOT make it RIGHT!!
> 
> It's like saying I put my brake pads on backwards, but the car still stops........for now.
> Shaddup with stupid **** already!!


You woke up on the wrong side of the bed today didn't you?

There are A LOT of people, especially on this forum who swap equipment very frequently. I don't support wire nuts, but a good crimp connect is much more practical in some situations (and often just as secure) than soldering everything. I solder where I can, but sometimes it's just not the right answer.

You're house has wire nuts all over the place, does that make it wrong because everything isn't soldered? The key is a solid connection that won't come loose. Solder isn't the only way to accomplish this.


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## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

Soldering is overrated. You're way more likely to get a loose connection soldering than you are crimping or using wire nuts.

Oh wait, I forgot... EVERYBODY is an above-average solderer. 

The wires are big enough and hidden enough to make it an ideal situation for crimp or wire nut, so I don't see the problem here. The only time I really solder in the car is when I have to go from big wire to small wire.


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## nsaspook (May 19, 2009)

MarkZ said:


> Soldering is overrated. You're way more likely to get a loose connection soldering than you are crimping or using wire nuts.
> 
> Oh wait, I forgot... EVERYBODY is an above-average solderer.
> 
> The wires are big enough and hidden enough to make it an ideal situation for crimp or wire nut, so I don't see the problem here. The only time I really solder in the car is when I have to go from big wire to small wire.


Crimping, yes. Wire nuts are only approved for lighting circuits. I use mainly mil-spec type connectors at work and used some "spares" for my car wiring. This series of connectors can handle almost anything.










SMS - Quick Mating / Product range list / Products / SOURIAU - Industrial Interconnect Systems and Connector solutions

http://www.souriau-industrial.com/e...98/26618/version/4/file/Contacts_TRIMTRIO.pdf

We normally use the machined contacts.


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## Catman (Mar 18, 2008)

MarkZ said:


> Soldering is overrated. You're way more likely to get a loose connection soldering than you are crimping or using wire nuts.
> 
> Oh wait, I forgot... EVERYBODY is an above-average solderer.


I'm enough 'above average' to have a NASA certification to solder on "Space Flight Hardware".  

Wire nuts are a sign of an amateur. Anyone that takes the time to solder and heatshrink is usually going to do a much better job on everything else.

>^..^<


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## KAPendley (Nov 19, 2007)

gijoe said:


> You woke up on the wrong side of the bed today didn't you?
> 
> There are A LOT of people, especially on this forum who swap equipment very frequently. I don't support wire nuts, but a good crimp connect is much more practical in some situations (and often just as secure) than soldering everything. I solder where I can, but sometimes it's just not the right answer.
> 
> You're house has wire nuts all over the place, does that make it wrong because everything isn't soldered? The key is a solid connection that won't come loose. Solder isn't the only way to accomplish this.


I am not angry, just blatantly honest. Wire Nuts have their place, and it is IN the home. You are right there. And I said CRIMPS or solder. My HU has crimps, I only need 4, the rest are RCA's anyway. 

Again, Im not pissed. If you prefer hack **** in your (edit Your is a generalization) vehicle, then by all means, please continue to do so.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

nsaspook said:


> Crimping, yes. Wire nuts are only approved for lighting circuits. I use mainly mil-spec type connectors at work and used some "spares" for my car wiring. This series of connectors can handle almost anything.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Holy ****, your bench looks like mine and you drink Sunkist too!


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## nsaspook (May 19, 2009)

chad said:


> Holy ****, your bench looks like mine and you drink Sunkist too!


It get messy sometimes.

fx box


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

chad said:


> Holy ****, your bench looks like mine and you drink Sunkist too!


I won't even take a photo of my work table as it sits right now. I spent 2 hours trying to get it organized on Sunday, and you still can't see the table!:blush:


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## KAPendley (Nov 19, 2007)

Jesus, it took me forever to find that damn sunkist in the pic. 
You are a little too thorough chad.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

I love how Chad' new avatar is... wire nuts.

Anyway, I belong to the solder / heatshrink family. I used to do solder / electrical tape and sometimes I still do if I forget to slide the heatshrink material over before I make the mechanical twist connection first. Or if I slide the heatshrink material over too fast and shrink it from the leftover heat.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

I have ONE wire nut in my install...and it came from Chad!!!


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

benny said:


> I have ONE wire nut in my install...and it came from Chad!!!


But it was attached to something that should remain attached for it to work it's voodoo.


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## benny (Apr 7, 2008)

chad said:


> But it was attached to something that should remain attached for it to work it's voodoo.


No worries, it's intact, working it's magic.


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## billg1230 (Jul 17, 2009)

Chad, love your new avatar!


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

you love my nuts


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

are those 75b's Chad ?


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## billg1230 (Jul 17, 2009)

This harness should work fine right?


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## billg1230 (Jul 17, 2009)

LMAO


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

This is what I have used in the car when I didn't want to use solder, and have had pretty decent results: 
Closed end solderless connectors: Parts-Express.com:Closed End (22-14) 50 Pcs. | solderless terminal wire nut crimp connector solderless crimp crimp on 
Twist-on wire nuts have been nothing but trouble for me in a car. They take up too much space, and they COME OFF, which is completely unacceptable. Either desoldering or cutting and re-stripping my soldered and heat-shrinked connections has never been a problem.


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## Ziggy (Nov 29, 2007)

I can't 'member what I used... prolly some gold plated butt-connects, followed by elect tape, with the slack bundled.


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## Lanson (Jan 9, 2007)

94VG30DE said:


> This is what I have used in the car when I didn't want to use solder, and have had pretty decent results:
> Closed end solderless connectors: Parts-Express.com:Closed End (22-14) 50 Pcs. | solderless terminal wire nut crimp connector solderless crimp crimp on
> Twist-on wire nuts have been nothing but trouble for me in a car. They take up too much space, and they COME OFF, which is completely unacceptable. Either desoldering or cutting and re-stripping my soldered and heat-shrinked connections has never been a problem.


I effing hate those things. Its fine when you have like, 2 or 3 of them. But start trying install a navi unit or something with an adapter box (like Onstar adapter GMOS), and this gets out of hand. Looks like a bunch of christmas lights in a tangle.


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## 94VG30DE (Nov 28, 2007)

fourthmeal said:


> I effing hate those things. Its fine when you have like, 2 or 3 of them. But start trying install a navi unit or something with an adapter box (like Onstar adapter GMOS), and this gets out of hand. Looks like a bunch of christmas lights in a tangle.


haha, exactly my point. I don't have near that much room behind my head unit, so I use solder and heat-shrink. Way cleaner looking, takes up WAY less space, and I don't have to have anything ziptied at weird angles to keep tension off the nut. I was just saying I haven't had any come loose. They look awful though.


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## Catman (Mar 18, 2008)

KAPendley said:


> Jesus, it took me forever to find that damn sunkist in the pic.
> You are a little too thorough chad.


I didn't see the SunKist ...but I did spot the FudgeCicles. 

>^..^<


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

I like Dolphin clips for smaller wires. They have teeth on the inside that grip every strand. Parts-Express.comolphin DC-100S Super B Connector w/Sealant 100 Pcs. | solderless terminal dolphin connector crimp connector splice solderless crimp crimp on


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## BigAl205 (May 20, 2009)

Catman said:


> I didn't see the SunKist ...but I did spot the FudgeCicles.
> 
> >^..^<


Upper left hand corner, in the trash can...


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## DanMan (Jul 18, 2008)

Like anything else, wire nuts can be used incorrectly. I am an elevator mechanic and wire nuts are used on the cab, so I don't buy the vibration argument.

I have seen crimp-on connectors, what we call butt splice connectors, cause WAY more problems than wire nuts.

My preference in my car is soldered splices. For no other reason than that's what all the cool people do.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

DanMan said:


> Like anything else, wire nuts can be used incorrectly. I am an elevator mechanic and wire nuts are used on the cab, so I don't buy the vibration argument.
> 
> I have seen crimp-on connectors, what we call butt splice connectors, cause WAY more problems than wire nuts.
> 
> My preference in my car is soldered splices. For no other reason than that's what all the cool people do.


In all my years, I don't think I've been on a single elevator that vibrated nearly as much as my car does. Actually, I don't think I've ever felt a vibration on an elevator in my life. And I've ridden plenty of them having worked in NYC. Also, I would assume that Elevators would use solid core wiring, like a house, the wiring that wire nuts are made to work with (obviously you're the tech, maybe I'm wrong?). As has been mentioned, wire nuts are not made to work on stranded wire. When you screw them on, they end up cutting off a bunch of strands. 

I too have seen butt splice crimp on connectors fail, but that is usually because they are crimped with ****ty 2 dollar crimpers.

there is a large difference in the quality of crimp you get from say a set of these















that will only squash the connector

and these








That will actually put a dimple in the connector vs just squashing it. 

Look at the crimping jaws on each of those and you'll see what I mean.


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## Dryseals (Sep 7, 2008)

DaveRulz said:


> In all my years, I don't think I've been on a single elevator that vibrated nearly as much as my car does. Actually, I don't think I've ever felt a vibration on an elevator in my life. And I've ridden plenty of them having worked in NYC. Also, I would assume that Elevators would use solid core wiring, like a house, the wiring that wire nuts are made to work with (obviously you're the tech, maybe I'm wrong?). As has been mentioned, wire nuts are not made to work on stranded wire. When you screw them on, they end up cutting off a bunch of strands.
> 
> I too have seen butt splice crimp on connectors fail, but that is usually because they are crimped with ****ty 2 dollar crimpers.
> 
> ...


The dimples are for non-insulated connectors, the non-dimpled crimpers are for insulated connectors.
I use a ratcheting crimper with dies to get the proper torque for the crimp. Most are good up to 8awg. For larger crimps, I yse an 8 ton crimper with dies. Also the cut on the wire needs to be straight, a simple set of ***** won't cut it correctly, leaves it angled, flush cut ***** do a better job. But then again I'm kind of anal about my connections.


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## 90MaximaSE (Nov 29, 2009)

Good info in these posts; wire nuts are a poor choice for stranded wire in car audio connections.

However, I've a recommendation for anyone using ANY mechanical connection, including crimps, for audio connections. Stranded wire as well as crimp connectors can oxidize fast in a car envoirnment, and with audio can give you a noisy and/or flaky connections. Not at first, but later down the line. 

Use a good anti-corrosive agent to protect from oxidation. CopperShield and products like DeoxIT SHIELD prevent this from ever being an issue. I've been using these for decades in both automotive electrical and car audio connections; they've made a believer out of me.
Especially critical are amplifier input connections (pre-amp level signals).


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## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

90MaximaSE said:


> However, I've a recommendation for anyone using ANY mechanical connection, including crimps, for audio connections. Stranded wire as well as crimp connectors can oxidize fast in a car envoirnment, and with audio can give you a noisy and/or flaky connections. Not at first, but later down the line.
> 
> Use a good anti-corrosive agent to protect from oxidation. CopperShield and products like DeoxIT SHIELD prevent this from ever being an issue. I've been using these for decades in both automotive electrical and car audio connections; they've made a believer out of me.
> Especially critical are amplifier input connections (pre-amp level signals).


It is called Kopr-Shield 

I use it on every crimp or set screw style connection.


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## DaveRulz (Jun 22, 2006)

Dryseals said:


> The dimples are for non-insulated connectors, the non-dimpled crimpers are for insulated connectors.


Yup, but the dimples works fine on insulated connectors in my experience. On occasion it will split the plastic insulation, but in most cases it just deforms it. If it does split, a little electrical tape or heat shrink takes care of the issue. I'd rather have a solid mechanical crimp and worry about the insulation after than have a ****ty crimp that is well insulated to begin with. Best thing to do if you are set on crimping vs soldering would be get the non-insulated connectors, the good crimpers, and use heatshrink. It would be a less bulky, properly terminated and sealed connection.


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## chad (Jun 30, 2005)

06BLMUSTANGGT said:


> It is called Kopr-Shield
> 
> I use it on every crimp or set screw style connection.


It comes in many names like Nolox, etc, they even make stuff for copper to aluminum bonds, aluminum to aluminum bonds, etc.

I use it on my lightning protection, and in my home distro wiring.... but not in my car.


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## MarkZ (Dec 5, 2005)

Dryseals said:


> The dimples are for non-insulated connectors, the non-dimpled crimpers are for insulated connectors.
> I use a ratcheting crimper with dies to get the proper torque for the crimp. Most are good up to 8awg. For larger crimps, I yse an 8 ton crimper with dies. Also the cut on the wire needs to be straight, a simple set of ***** won't cut it correctly, leaves it angled, flush cut ***** do a better job. But then again I'm kind of anal about my connections.


I still dimple the insulated ones and then round out the insulation afterwards. When I'm stuck with ****ty crimpers, I use the in-between part to create the dimple.


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## Oliver (Jun 25, 2007)

I'd recommend a few extra feet of wire , then just cut some off and form a new connection.

solder,glue,spit,tape,nuts . . . whatever works for you !


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## Sandhawk (Nov 28, 2009)

I solder on mine, no real reason though


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