# Faital pro 8fe200 v 18sound 6nd430



## estione

Hi Guys

After waiting 6 weeks for some Beyma 8g40's in 4 ohm i get an email to be told they cant supply me the 4 ohm version  and could not tell me how long for the 8ohm one's

So i have a pair of 18sound 6nd430 in 4 ohm but i am able to get some Faital pro 8fe200 in 4 & 8 ohm

These will be coupled with i/d mini horns with Selenium D2500ti-nd ( Thanks Kris aka Sqram )

Which and why would you choose

Thanks for any help & advice


----------



## T3mpest

estione said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> After waiting 6 weeks for some Beyma 8g40's in 4 ohm i get an email to be told they cant supply me the 4 ohm version  and could not tell me how long for the 8ohm one's
> 
> So i have a pair of 18sound 6nd430 in 4 ohm but i am able to get some Faital pro 8fe200 in 4 & 8 ohm
> 
> These will be coupled with i/d mini horns with Selenium D2500ti-nd ( Thanks Kris aka Sqram )
> 
> Which and why would you choose
> 
> Thanks for any help & advice


Between an 8 and a 6, gotta go with the 8, plus the price is nice on the faital pro's. I really liked my Pyle Pro 8's I used on a budget build, the ones with phase plugs, they were 3ohm


----------



## estione

^^ Thanks i thought it would be 8's over 6's but having been mostly into sq cars i wanted to keep a certain amount of sq hence why i said the 18sound, But i am also very new to the hlcd world ( and you can only do so much reading before you gotta ask questions lol ) so i am looking for all the advice i can get.

Thanks


----------



## T3mpest

estione said:


> ^^ Thanks i thought it would be 8's over 6's but having been mostly into sq cars i wanted to keep a certain amount of sq hence why i said the 18sound, But i am also very new to the hlcd world ( and you can only do so much reading before you gotta ask questions lol ) so i am looking for all the advice i can get.
> 
> Thanks


I really liked my $30 pyle Pro's. I was selling my 99 eldorado with horns and kickpanels and had to leave a system in it since I wasn't going stock. Put in a set of mini horns (worked best in that car) a cheap set of B&C compression drivers took the place of my B&C DE500's and those pyles replaced the highly lauded BMS 8n515. The BMS had a cleaner midrange sound and took power better, but the 3ohm Pyles got a just as loud, but were more dynamic with better midbass. Maybe if I had 250+ watts at 8ohms on tap for the BMS it would have been far and away the better driver.. Overall for most of my non critical listening, I'd prefer the Pyles lol.

Probably not the cheapest site, I just type pyle pro 8 and used google image to match em out.. this is what I used. Sensativity is a bit overrrated I think, they diddn't get much louder than my BMS on 1/3 the power.. However, they took 300 watts per speaker decently. They didn't "'like" the top of my volume knob, but they took it pretty well overall for being 3 ohm. For comparison they didn't take the power as well as my older Image Dynamics XS69's though. Those were really nice, but price to performance I still think they pyles were good.

http://www.vminnovations.com/Produc...h-1120W-Mid-Bass-MidRange-Speakers-Pair-.html


----------



## subwoofery

With a horn install, I'd go with the most cone area+higher efficiency any time 
I own a pair of 6ND430 but I'd go with the 8FE200 if it fits. 

Don't go with a driver too sensitive or you won't have any lows. 

Kelvin


----------



## mikey7182

Cone area is king for sure- I'll second subwoofery. I would also not pick a driver based on whether or not you can get it in 4 ohm vs 8. You'll likely not lose half your power using an 8 ohm driver because your amp will run much cooler and more efficient, plus most 8 ohm pro drivers I've owned usually end up having a resistance somewhere around 6 ohms anyway. Basically, it's not a selling point/deal breaker.

If you can fit an 8" driver diameter-wise, how much depth do you have to work with? There are a lot of 8s out there. I always wanted to try those Pyles that Tempest mentioned. There are a few different versions of them but most of them are pretty shallow for easy mounting. I ran the BMS he had and those were phenomenal, but I used them as a dedicated midrange so I didn't have the midbass issues he had.


----------



## T3mpest

mikey7182 said:


> Cone area is king for sure- I'll second subwoofery. I would also not pick a driver based on whether or not you can get it in 4 ohm vs 8. You'll likely not lose half your power using an 8 ohm driver because your amp will run much cooler and more efficient, plus most 8 ohm pro drivers I've owned usually end up having a resistance somewhere around 6 ohms anyway. Basically, it's not a selling point/deal breaker.
> 
> If you can fit an 8" driver diameter-wise, how much depth do you have to work with? There are a lot of 8s out there. I always wanted to try those Pyles that Tempest mentioned. There are a few different versions of them but most of them are pretty shallow for easy mounting. I ran the BMS he had and those were phenomenal, but I used them as a dedicated midrange so I didn't have the midbass issues he had.


The BMS really shined in the midrange clarity. The Pyle werent' as clean and since I enough power to make them go "pop" at a momemnts notice I had to be a bit careful, since I def could make them sound ragged just by running them too hard. Still at respectably high output levels, they were pretty sweet. Pure midbass they would have been great to go with the BMS. They def killed it on the focal drum tracks.. 

All the drum tracks have been pretty lifelike in my car, the pyle mids though were the first ones to really get the impact on the snares fully right. A real snare at high volume you can feel in the center of your head, I could just get that at full volume with the Pyles. Neither my XS69 or my BMS could quite do that and the XS69 were 4ohm lol. They were durable and sounded cleaner at max volume, but def not as loud and dynamic as the pyles were.


----------



## Patrick Bateman

estione said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> After waiting 6 weeks for some Beyma 8g40's in 4 ohm i get an email to be told they cant supply me the 4 ohm version  and could not tell me how long for the 8ohm one's
> 
> So i have a pair of 18sound 6nd430 in 4 ohm but i am able to get some Faital pro 8fe200 in 4 & 8 ohm
> 
> These will be coupled with i/d mini horns with Selenium D2500ti-nd ( Thanks Kris aka Sqram )
> 
> Which and why would you choose
> 
> Thanks for any help & advice


The difference between a 4ohm and an 8ohm driver is about 2dB. (It would be 3dB if 8ohm drivers were actually 8ohm, but they're closer to six than eight.)
You probably wouldn't be able to hear the difference between the two.


----------



## Patrick Bateman

T3mpest said:


> The BMS really shined in the midrange clarity. The Pyle werent' as clean and since I enough power to make them go "pop" at a momemnts notice I had to be a bit careful, since I def could make them sound ragged just by running them too hard. Still at respectably high output levels, they were pretty sweet. Pure midbass they would have been great to go with the BMS. They def killed it on the focal drum tracks..
> 
> All the drum tracks have been pretty lifelike in my car, the pyle mids though were the first ones to really get the impact on the snares fully right. A real snare at high volume you can feel in the center of your head, I could just get that at full volume with the Pyles. Neither my XS69 or my BMS could quite do that and the XS69 were 4ohm lol. They were durable and sounded cleaner at max volume, but def not as loud and dynamic as the pyles were.


Isn't it weird how good distortion sounds?
It's something that's really been vexing me lately.
There's lots of high distortion drivers that sound better than 'clean' drivers.

Pyle makes some good stuff.


----------



## T3mpest

Patrick Bateman said:


> Isn't it weird how good distortion sounds?
> It's something that's really been vexing me lately.
> There's lots of high distortion drivers that sound better than 'clean' drivers.
> 
> Pyle makes some good stuff.


It was pretty depressing since I paid 250 for the BMS and like 50 for the pyles.. I mean the midrange on the BMS was cleaner for sure, but for my overall 2 way horn application, I think I preferred the Pyle! Midbass impact was just stellar and with a lot of what I listen to that counts for quite a bit.


----------



## subterFUSE

Patrick Bateman said:


> The difference between a 4ohm and an 8ohm driver is about 2dB. (It would be 3dB if 8ohm drivers were actually 8ohm, but they're closer to six than eight.)
> You probably wouldn't be able to hear the difference between the two.


That's good info.

I'm going to be changing amplifiers soon and I've been considering swapping out my Beyma 8G40 midbass for some 18Sound drivers. I want something that can play a little bit lower. My Beymas have an Fs of 70Hz. I'm looking at some 18Sound drivers that get down to 61Hz. But I think I would have to go with 8 ohms because I've heard it's hard to find the 4 ohm versions of these 18Sound drivers.

I'm looking at the following:

8NMB420
8MB500
8NW650

I'm going to have a 2 channel amp bridged on each midbass driver. The amps are rated at 250W x 1 @ 4ohms. So should I be getting about 125-150W on an 8 ohm speaker? Or would it be more? 
Will that be sufficient on any of those 18Sound drivers?


----------



## thehatedguy

I don't think a difference in 10 hertz is going to be the drastic difference you are looking for.


----------



## subterFUSE

thehatedguy said:


> I don't think a difference in 10 hertz is going to be the drastic difference you are looking for.


I was hoping that the combination of more power plus a driver that's a little more capable down lower might make an improvement.


----------

