# Another Civic build! - '08 LX sedan



## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

This has been a long time coming and I'm extremely happy to finally be under way with it. I had been wanting to get rid of my G35x and get something that was better on gas and go back to a Honda and this satisfied my needs. I got the Civic for a crackhead price and couldn't pass it up. I will point it out right away that this is going to be a long thread. Alright on to the equipment!

Head unit: Addzest HX-D1/MRM

It has been heavily modified by Matt R. Bass/treble, fade/balance am/fm tuner have been eliminated. Volume control has been changed. All coupling caps in the signal path have been removed as well as some op-amps. Remaining op-amps have been swapped for analog device models. I might have missed something?

The signal from the head unit will be going into a another custom Matt R piece. One of his custom line drivers that will convert the RCA's to symbilink cable as well as boosting the signal to feed the amp powering the front stage. I'm only using the line driver for the front stage. The sub channel is just going to be using a standard Zapco converter.













Amps: Zapco DC1000.4 & Zapco DC750.2

The 1000.4 will amp will be powering the front components. I have yet to find a 750.2 but when I do one channel will power a single 15" and I'll have an extra channel for future expansion. 


Front Stage: JBL 660GTi components

I've been going back and forth on using the supplied crossover and using the amp for the EQ and time alignment. I'm leaning more of leaving the crossover out and using the 1000.4 for all. Nothing is set in stone as of yet.

As for speaker placement for the front stage. The mids will be down in the kick panels and I'm leaning more yo putting the tweeters down there as well. I'm going to get everything else done first and then mess around with speaker placement.

Here are a few shots of some components from the GTi set. The x-over is damn big as you can see!







































Sub stage: Single AE IB15A

Obviously this will be mounted infinite baffle using the DC750.2 for power. If everything works out as planned the sub will be mounted to a fully granite baffle in the trunk. I'm crossing my fingers on this happening to just add another dimension to the build but if it doesn't work out then I've got something else planned that you don't see much.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Now to the fun stuff, Sound deadening and tearing everything apart! Yesterday I managed to take apart the whole interior save the dash and headliner. I only had 6 sheets of Rammat left so I used them up on some various places on the floor and such. I'm pretty sure I have enough MLV and ensolite to do the floor but nothing else so that will be ordered as needed. I've got 2 gallons of spectrum to spray the outside wheel wells front and back as well as the entire floor. 

Later in the week I'm removing the front sub frame from the car to allow the bottom half of the fire wall to be sprayed with spectrum. The exhaust is being taken off and all the shields and such to allow the underside to be coated. I'm also going to have to remove the gas tank eventually so the area above the tank will be getting coated as well. 

Below are some shots with the interior removed from yesterday and a couple more with some deadener in various places.









































This is where I'm at for the next couple days. I plan on spraying the underside on Saturday since I'm off that day and I can let the car sit for the weekend and let the spectrum dry properly. Don't worry I'll get pictures with the car with everything removed.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Hold up... GRANITE baffle for the IB wall?


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

Subscribing for the hard rock build.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Hold up... GRANITE baffle for the IB wall?


Yep. I told you I had a few things up my sleeve! Getting it isn't a problem. Finding the right person to cut it is.

The plan is to make a frame from angle iron that bolts into the trunk area around the same area you have yours at. The granite will then bolt into the frame. My reason for removing the gas tank is so I can drill holes for riv-nuts in the trunk floor without going into the tank so the frame can be removed if need be.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

I was actually going to do the same regarding the frame. Then... Baby. 

Yea, the hardest part would be getting it cut.


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## Sulley (Dec 8, 2008)

Those IB15 with the machined basket look amazing and I'm terribly interested in seeing it in a granite baffle! Can't wait to see more.


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## The A Train (Jun 26, 2007)

Oh wow, you sure peaked my interest!


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## decibelle (Feb 17, 2011)

Interesting. I have an AE SBP15 - similar subs, so I'm interested in seeing what you have to say about yours. Also, is yours 4 or 8ohm?

Looking forward to see the whole build, especially if you can pull off the granite baffle.


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## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

I have quite a bit of experience working granite, marble and other stones. You are going to have a few problems. Granite is brutally hard but also brittle. Granite has very little if any ability to flex without breaking. Even in moving a slab it has to remain upright because it will break under its own weight. This means it will be very difficult to install in an IB location without it breaking (*but not impossible). 
The second is that you can not drill holes close to an edge. By nature of the material and its properties will cause the holes intended to retain the driver to 'blow out' as they are too close to the driver cutout hole. 


I HIGHLY recommend that do not use granite as your IB baffle. I do agree it would look awesome and have toyed with the idea of using stone in audio install as well. It is my suggestion that use a sheet of .75 birch plywood that would retain the drivers and use a granite slab cut to the OD of the driver frames to flush mount the subs. This way the plywood will support the subs and have a solid mounting substrate for the stone. From the appearance you wouldnt know if it was solid or not (you could do front and back).

These are just suggestions, take them or leave them. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. 

~JH


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> I have quite a bit of experience working granite, marble and other stones. You are going to have a few problems. Granite is brutally hard but also brittle. Granite has very little if any ability to flex without breaking. Even in moving a slab it has to remain upright because it will break under its own weight. This means it will be very difficult to install in an IB location without it breaking (*but not impossible).
> The second is that you can not drill holes close to an edge. By nature of the material and its properties will cause the holes intended to retain the driver to 'blow out' as they are too close to the driver cutout hole.
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for the suggestions Jonny. I had already asked another forum member about using the granite and gave a few pointers on top of yours. I was planning on mounting the slab on a piece of birch ply. Holes would be drilled through the granite and threaded inserts in the birch thereby compressing the granite between the basket of the sub and birch.

My only other concern is with the flexing of the car chassis with the frame idea. With it being bolted to the car in such a way that if when going through a corner or something the granite would break? I may be over thinking that but I need to think of this stuff when tackling something foreign like this.

Thank you for the suggestions and I will definitely send you a question if I have one. 


Ally- it is a 4 ohm IB15.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Are you concerned about the weight?

My advice: start looking in to a camber kit now. You'll need it. The civic has negative camber from factory. When the trunk is not loaded its not bad. Start adding weight, though, and it gets ugly. Speaking from experience You'll rnever get even tire wear.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

FWIW
I would suggest that everything be mounted to baltic birch ply and bond the slightly smaller piece of granite to the plywood as stiffener/mass loading device. This way, the ply would provide "give" when the chassis flexes and there would be no danger of fracture due to screw-holes and such.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Are you concerned about the weight?
> 
> My advice: start looking in to a camber kit now. You'll need it. The civic has negative camber from factory. When the trunk is not loaded its not bad. Start adding weight, though, and it gets ugly. Speaking from experience You'll rnever get even tire wear.


I've been looking at coil-over kits to compensate for the drop after putting what will be close to a 100lb slab of hard stone in the trunk and of course the camber kit will be ordered. Add the weight of the amps, birch ply and frame work and it gets up there. I had a 50lb bag of sand blasting material that I threw in the general area where the baffle will go and It lowered the car around 1/4" if not a little more. It does have me a little concerned but will see.

Nothing to report on today. I had a few complications at work that kept me from doing what I needed to do underneath the car in preparation for the spectrum. I will definitely start it tomorrow though and I'll be sure to get photo's.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Nothing to really report on today but I did get some time to clean up the underside of the car with some degreaser.

I did find a couple places locally that have water jets so I'm not as worried about finding someone to cut the stone. Now I just need to pick out a color of granite. Suggestions?

When I got home this was waiting on me! My DC1000.4 with stacking hardware. That's why I'm now looking for a 750.2 or another 1000.4. Thank you Kirk!


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## Firewall (Sep 29, 2009)

Those are my dream components.....would like to hear your reviews on them when installed

Sent from my MotoA953 using Tapatalk


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## Sean Morrison (May 27, 2007)

That granite sub wall is really thinking outside the box. How much are you estimating it to weigh though? Maybe its not as heavy as I'm thinking but I always try to keep weight down in car installs.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I got started on spraying the underside this afternoon. I sprayed degreaser on the underside 3 times and scrubbed the bottom side of the car 3 times just to make sure I was starting with a good base. I then had to tape up and the things like cables, brake lines, Evap lines and such up so I wouldn't get any spectrum on them. I also applied little pieces of tape over any threaded holes. As you can also see I removed the charcoal canister and taped up all the lines and hoses. 

I decided not to remove the front sub-frame right now. This may change by Saturday when I'm going to spend the entire day working on the underside.

A word of caution on using spectrum! Make sure you have some way to regulate the air pressure. I thought I could just work the trigger and be good. On a couple of occasion I fully pulled it and got splattered with the stuff. At least it cleans up easy! I'm also doing this at work where we have 2 compressors with 160 gallon tanks.

Here are a few shots of the vital areas taped up.

Underside looking forward.










Left front wheel well.










Right rear wheel well.










I still had a little time to try this out before I left and shot a little on the right rear and underside of the trunk area. It was just some 1 light coat and I did miss a few spots. I was very surprised how far just one bottle's worth went and I had to dump some back in the gallon jug.


Bottom of Trunk










Right rear wheel well










Another angle of right rear wheel well.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Oh I am so in on this!


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## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL (Jan 31, 2011)

Very nice, I just did under my trunk with the stuff, and I second that, trigger control is not enough. It has a habit of bouncing back at you since it comes out so thick.


Really looking forward to the granite sub build, as someone who used concrete, steel bbs, and fiberglass for his kick panels.


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## Fixtion (Aug 25, 2006)

I'm glad to see things are coming together here. I look forward to the full install, and I hope to be apart of the gear! The 750.2 Is a solid amp with solid power. You will absolutely love it!


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## pionkej (Feb 29, 2008)

Nice build so far man. Nice to see you scored the 750.2 you were after too. 

As far as the 660's go, I would definitely run them active. It may seem like a waste to not use that crossover, but the amp's DSP can do more. I would also highly recommend putting the tweeters up high. Legs can easily block high frequencies, and that waveguide is designed to make the tweeter beam early. If down low, you will easily block/attenuate everything that tweeter outputs. If you can get them on-axis at the dash/pillar, you won't block anything and the waveguide will help the tweeter avoid reflections. That's a win-win IMHO. 

For the baffle, are you using granite mostly for mass-loading or uniqueness? If it's the former, I would honestly suggest going a different route (though it would look awesome). I used 3 sheets of Baltic birch and have 0 flex. It's super light, but I handled resonance by other means. 

Mass loading will lower the resonant frequency, stiffness/coupling will raise it. I basically coupled the baffle VERY well to the ski-pass and then used Fomo (low density expanding foam) in the entire frame area. This allowed me to virtually eliminate HF resonance, and since the light, but rigid, baffle had increased the potential resonance of the sub...I have no resonance from the sub. 

I do still have a couple of rattles on the decklid at full-tilt, but that is from pressure in the trunk area and not from vibrations (so mass loaded wouldn't have helped the issue). 

Whatever way you go, I'm sure it will be sweet and I'm excited to see it progress.


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## Paul1217 (Aug 12, 2007)

subscribed for sure. i gotta see this rock


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Nice. Made a big difference on my 8th gen Si, I just wish I didn't sell it and get a Fit


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## eviling (Apr 14, 2010)

just another civic? holy ****. ive heard those jbl GTI's and they are SPECTACULAR, ive never heard htem in 2 way, i heard them in a 3 way setup, with an SB 8" ran passive off the pioneer high end SQ unit currently out. it's an amazing speaker set like that, and even alone i'm sure its spectacular. wish i could hear this when it was done. and that AE IB15 will sound beautiful, great choice of gear here! very well matched, i wanted to run AE drivers my self but he never got back to me, so i defaulted on FI


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

pionkej said:


> Nice build so far man. Nice to see you scored the 750.2 you were after too.
> 
> As far as the 660's go, I would definitely run them active. It may seem like a waste to not use that crossover, but the amp's DSP can do more. I would also highly recommend putting the tweeters up high. Legs can easily block high frequencies, and that waveguide is designed to make the tweeter beam early. If down low, you will easily block/attenuate everything that tweeter outputs. If you can get them on-axis at the dash/pillar, you won't block anything and the waveguide will help the tweeter avoid reflections. That's a win-win IMHO.
> 
> ...



My first thought on the 660's were to put the tweeters with the waveguide up in the a-pillar. These Civics have that little window and I could just block it off. I've placed it up there just to see how it would look and I don't really care for it. It would have to be pointed down at the dash and the kicks have a nice amount of room if you aren't scared to cut, which I'm not! I'm going to experiment with tweeter placement when I get further along. I'm not going to just put them somewhere and hope for the best. I've got TrueRTA to take some measurement's so I can optimize the placement. Plus my ears are pretty good.

About the granite baffle. Yes, I'm using it for mass-loading the baffle and just because you never see it. I'm very aware I could just use some high quality ply but wheres the fun in that?! 

If the granite doesn't work out I will make a multi-layer baffle. I'm thinking of not carpeting the wood and getting a really nice veneer and stain it to give it a nice rich look. That's just the back up plan.

I do need to get some expanding foam but I'd like to minimize the use of it to be honest. I've got a couple areas I've noticed that will need it but I'm not real fond of it.


On to updates. I spent pretty much all day spraying the spectrum on at work. I did buy a regulator from Lowe's and found it best to spray it at around 40-50PSI. That applied it pretty thick and required less coats. I used all 2 gallons I had and that is with 3 coats on the underside. I've also placed an order for some more Rammat and a couple yards of ensolite for some places on the interior. I've already got a ton of MLV and really thick ensolite so I should be done buying deadener. I'll get the photo's up here in a bit of the underside.

I also received my Matt R Line driver as well as finding a DC750.2. I still haven't decided where the 2 amps will be going either.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Ok, here are some pictures of the car as it sits right now. I didn't know how poor these pictures were until I loaded them on my computer so they are far from great. The lighting is terrible in the shop.


Bottom side of trunk










Right rear wheel well










Right front wheel well










Bottom side full shot











I won't be able to do any work on the car tomorrow as it's all locked up at work and I wanted to let the spectrum cure over the weekend anyway. 

Next project will be the granite wall and the frame work for it!


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

Wow, that's awesome dude. I'm subscribed.


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## SiR_Dave (Mar 21, 2008)

Good Stuff.. I like what your doing so far ...


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

don't start slowing down.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

nar93da said:


>


LOL!!!!!  That's sooooo chocked full of WIN! 
I so wanna do that!!! Times like these I wish I was a wrench at a shop.

Granted my FA5 (si sedan) is on a lift with a torn oil pan and subframe after running over a trans gearbox left in the road from a wreck yesterday. words cannot express the lividity.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Babs said:


> LOL!!!!!  That's sooooo chocked full of WIN!
> I so wanna do that!!! Times like these I wish I was a wrench at a shop.
> 
> Granted my FA5 (si sedan) is on a lift with a torn oil pan and subframe after running over a trans gearbox left in the road from a wreck yesterday. words cannot express the lividity.


Sorry to hear about the Si. That sucks!

I haven't been working on it in case anyone was wondering. I've been waiting on a few more items to get here and I still have some smaller things to order. Thankfully all the expensive items are all purchased. 

I plan on working on one thing at a time and not jumping from one project to the next, which I've been known to do. I'm waiting to hear back on my connection for the granite so I can start on that next. 

Another reason why the build will move slow is that by the time I get home, I don't want to even see a car! Anyone who is a tech knows what I'm talking about. Just need the motivation to get off my ass sometimes!

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk


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## fbottone (Nov 16, 2011)

Wow - this is coming out amazing so far. subscribing...


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

come on slacker.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Don't worry people, I haven't abandoned the build! Between the holidays, lack of motivation and being sick for the past 2.5 weeks I'll be starting back up here very shortly. One other hold up was I had to save up and get a decent welder to make the frame, amp rack and a few other bits it will help with. I have also had to buy a few other odds and ends here and there but have mostly everything to complete the build now. 

On another note, The granite baffle isn't going to happen right off the bat. The company that was going to supply is going through some rough times and I don't want to bother them with getting it from them at the moment. I do plan to compete so maybe that will come next season anyway. I may try and be done in time for FreezeFest for my first competition ever as I'm a noob to them! That may be pushing it though as the kicks will consume a lot of time with figuring out placement, enclosure size and such but we will see how everything else falls and where I'm at. 

The frame is partly done right now and I hope to be done with it this weekend before it gets powder coated. I plan on fitting the 2 Zapco amps between the back seat and baffle so I can still have a usable trunk. So stay tuned for some updates here in the next couple days.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

nar93da said:


> Don't worry people, I haven't abandoned the build! Between the holidays, lack of motivation and being sick for the past 2.5 weeks I'll be starting back up here very shortly. One other hold up was I had to save up and get a decent welder to make the frame, amp rack and a few other bits it will help with. I have also had to buy a few other odds and ends here and there but have mostly everything to complete the build now.
> 
> On another note, The granite baffle isn't going to happen right off the bat. The company that was going to supply is going through some rough times and I don't want to bother them with getting it from them at the moment. I do plan to compete so maybe that will come next season anyway. I may try and be done in time for FreezeFest for my first competition ever as I'm a noob to them! That may be pushing it though as the kicks will consume a lot of time with figuring out placement, enclosure size and such but we will see how everything else falls and where I'm at.
> 
> The frame is partly done right now and I hope to be done with it this weekend before it gets powder coated. I plan on fitting the 2 Zapco amps between the back seat and baffle so I can still have a usable trunk. So stay tuned for some updates here in the next couple days.


glad to hear.


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

very nice equipment.......subscribed


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Well I didn't get as much done today as I was hoping as I didn't get a big enough piece of steel to work any more on the frame. I did take a few more piece's of equipment and a little bit of the work I got done before it was time to watch some playoff NFL Football.


Here is a shot of the frame in the car that was made a few weeks ago. Yes, the top has a bow in it because I had to cut a little from the middle to make it fit. That's why you always measure twice and cut once! No biggie as the baffle will cover it up. I made the frame before I got my welder and wanted to try my hand at bronze brazing in case someone notice's the weld joints. 












In order for the frame to stay in place I'll be drilling holes and installing Rivnuts in various places. I've got 2 in the bottom so far. Here's what I've talking about.












Alright, in front of the baffle is where the 2 Zapco amps are going to be located. I got the wood cut that the amps will be sitting on since I couldn't work on securing the top of the frame work to the chassis of the car.











Here's a shot of the amps. I'll be using a DC1000.4 and DC750.2. I changed the hardware on the top of the amps to stainless steel and i re-tapped the side's of each amp to M4x.7 so I could also change it to stainless steel hardware where I have button head screws.





















All the wiring will be techflexed and properly labeled. I got a bunch of techflex from furryletters on Ebay.












Here is just a random shot of some other things for all you people that just look at pictures and never read! Got my Matt Roberts Line driver, Anderson power disconnects for my power supply, speakers wire, power/ground wire, StreetWires distribution block, ring terminals, firewall grommet.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Woohoo! Updates! Nice!


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Been working on getting the frame done little by little during the week and worked on it most of the day. The filler plates that tie in the sides of the frame are taking a lot of time due to the bends and all. I can happily say the frame is almost done, The only thing lacking is the top filler panel that will seal the trunk from the passenger compartment.

I did run into one problem. The amps won't fit on the board in my above post as the amps sit to high and would hit the subwoofer frame. I'm going to have to figure out a new place to mount the amps and I refuse to give up my spare tire. I've got a few ideas in mind but lets move on to some progress shots.


Here is the bracket the is on the right side of the car. I've got 2 Rivnuts installed holding these in place. I went a little crazy with the spot welds on these to say the least and some of them looked terrible!












This is the left side bracket. This side was much harder because I had to work around the harness you see pictured since It was just easier to keep it there then relocate it elsewhere. You can see in this shot the area the other filler plate will have to go to seal it up.












The is the area that also required a filler piece that was underneath the board pictured above.











Here is a shot with the sheet metal in. As always this has Rivnuts holding it down. This piece will change in future installments as I'll have to cut some holes in it to pass all the required wires though it to get to the amps.


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## bigaudiofanatic (Mar 1, 2009)

Very nice looking forward to the finished product.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

Looks good so far. I didn't want to give up my spare either. I also did not want to give up the pass-through the back seat. I gotta be able to put long items like fishing poles in my car . 

Nice that your trunk floor is pretty much flat too. Are you doing an IB?


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> Looks good so far. I didn't want to give up my spare either. I also did not want to give up the pass-through the back seat. I gotta be able to put long items like fishing poles in my car .
> 
> Nice that your trunk floor is pretty much flat too. Are you doing an IB?


Thank you. Your build is looking very good as well. I've been following since the beginning. Yes, I'm going IB using a single AE IB15a. If one pops up in the classifieds I may get another just for symmetry and I've got an unused channel on the 750.2 so why not!


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

I am curious about something since your doing an IB. In the Accord there is a rather large cavity between the outer sheet metal and the inner sheet metal of the back seat area that continues to the trunk. If I were ever to do an IB I would have to figure out some way to seal that off in addition to the seat back and deck lid.

Does the civic have that? If so have you figured out a way to seal it off?


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Awesome build. Love the lengths you are going to regarding the sound deadening.

Regarding the sub baffle frame: Why don't you push the whole frame forward towards the front of the car to naturally seal the gaps in the opening just behind the rear seats? You can still keep it perfectly plumb (not parallel to the seatbacks) so there is still a gap at the bottom to leave clearance for the front of the sub(s). And you can swap your sheetmetal "mounting tabs" to the back side of the frame, facing towards the rear. Once you finalize if you will be running 1 or 2 subs, maybe think about adding one or two vertical braces to the frame.

My advice for the baffle, while not as exotic, is to use solid-surface countertop material such as DuPont Corian. You can laminate 2 or more sheets together with a special adhesive and it can be worked/cut with a common router and drilled easily. It's available in almost any color or pattern you could possibly want. It won't be brittle and crack like granite but is still very dense to provide mass and kill most of your resonance problems.

You can seal around the finished frame and baffle with 3M/SEM/Lord-Fusor Automotive Flexible Urethane Pillar/Cavity Foam. It also works great to fill and sound deaden all of the metal posts, pillars, and crossmembers, such as the ones under your seats and under the car as well. It's designed for this and cures without air, unlike the Home Depot expanding foam that stays gooey and never hardens in the center or any place notexposed to air.

Just my 2¢. Looking great so far!


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## Xandr (Jan 17, 2011)

nar93da said:


> Ok, here are some pictures of the car as it sits right now. I didn't know how poor these pictures were until I loaded them on my computer so they are far from great. The lighting is terrible in the shop.
> 
> 
> Bottom side of trunk
> ...


I did the same with my car, I covered the bottom with ANTICHIP BODY 950, this is like addition deadening. Finally I've got 5-7 mm thickness.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

Looks good.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

bbfoto said:


> Awesome build. Love the lengths you are going to regarding the sound deadening.
> 
> Regarding the sub baffle frame: Why don't you push the whole frame forward towards the front of the car to naturally seal the gaps in the opening just behind the rear seats? You can still keep it perfectly plumb (not parallel to the seatbacks) so there is still a gap at the bottom to leave clearance for the front of the sub(s). And you can swap your sheetmetal "mounting tabs" to the back side of the frame, facing towards the rear. Once you finalize if you will be running 1 or 2 subs, maybe think about adding one or two vertical braces to the frame.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the tip on the Corian and expansion foam. I had thought about the corian but never really looked in to it. I may have to look into it a little more.

The reason for not putting the baffle closer to the rear is that I didn't want the subs basket sitting in the trunk. I will be limited on depth but not much. I'm pretty sure I could fit a W15GTi depending on how thick I make the baffle. I also didn't want to do what you always see and just mount them right behind the back seat.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

That frame for the IB install is super sweet!
Keep up the excellent work.


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## Fireseeker (Apr 21, 2008)

subd


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> I am curious about something since your doing an IB. In the Accord there is a rather large cavity between the outer sheet metal and the inner sheet metal of the back seat area that continues to the trunk. If I were ever to do an IB I would have to figure out some way to seal that off in addition to the seat back and deck lid.
> 
> Does the civic have that? If so have you figured out a way to seal it off?


Are you referring to this area pointed out in the picture below?











That entire area runs the length of the backseat and is one big open cavity so I'm pretty sure. On the Civic there is only one hole in the trunk area that opens up into the cavity and it has a few large holes on the passenger compartment side. I won't have to do a whole lot to seal it off but I'll probably put some expanding foam in the cavity it but I'm sure not going to fill it up with foam. I'll make sure I take some pictures for anyone to reference.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

No the area to the sides of the back seat and above the wheel well flows from the back seat area into the trunk compartment.

See the holes in the inner sheet metal skin in the back seat area in this picture? There is a cavity that continues through to the trunk.












nar93da said:


> Are you referring to this area pointed out in the picture below?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> No the area to the sides of the back seat and above the wheel well flows from the back seat area into the trunk compartment.
> 
> See the holes in the inner sheet metal skin in the back seat area in this picture? There is a cavity that continues through to the trunk.


I see. The area above my rear wheel wells is all sealed up. Well from looking at your build log your pretty good with fiberglass? I would fill the cavity's with some mattress/egg crate foam and make some molds of the holes to seal them babies up.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Mirage Man, that looks like a coupe. The Sedan doesn't have that void in the rear seat (I know this car intimately). 

If that's not what you're talking about... never mind....


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

bikinpunk said:


> Mirage Man, that looks like a coupe. The Sedan doesn't have that void in the rear seat (I know this car intimately).
> 
> If that's not what you're talking about... never mind....


Yes, I have a coupe. 

That makes sense, that would be where the back door would be on the sedan.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Regarding that, and not to derail this thread, but if you want to seal up that area you can get by with pillows, or some sort of stuffing material and just cram it in the crevices. No need for messy spray foam.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

bikinpunk said:


> Regarding that, and not to derail this thread, but if you want to seal up that area you can get by with pillows, or some sort of stuffing material and just cram it in the crevices. No need for messy spray foam.


I'm done deadening for now and since I'm not doing and IB in my install I'm not worried about it.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

nar93da said:


> The reason for not putting the baffle closer to the rear is that I didn't want the subs basket sitting in the trunk. I will be limited on depth but not much. I'm pretty sure I could fit a W15GTi depending on how thick I make the baffle. I also didn't want to do what you always see and just mount them right behind the back seat.


Gotcha. Understand now. So you are going to have the subwoofer cones facing into the trunk/towards the rear, and the amps _would_ have been behind the rear seats but forward of the baffle, and the sub basket and magnet would have extended above the amps in the space behind the seats.

Have you figured out where you'll put the amps now? Wanna trade those Zapco's for some smaller JL HD amps I have laying around???  Didn't think so!

If you push the sub baffle forward, but still vertical not slanted with the seats, then face the cones toward the back seat, and mount the amps under the rear deck, will that work better? I'm just trying to think what setup is going to net you the most usable trunk space and work best from a SQ standpoint as well.

I doubt the Zapco's will fit this way, but what about an amp/sub layout in your trunk on the baffle like this (looking into the trunk from straight behind the car)...

| / O \ |

left side wall of trunk, amp, subwoofer, amp, right side wall of trunk.

or 

| \ O / |


If you kept the cone facing towards the rear, you could even have the amps overlap the edge of the sub's cone a bit, as long as you space the amps out a bit from the baffle so there's clearance for the forward excursion of surround and cone. This obviously wouldn't work if you end up using two IB15's.


On to your frame and baffle-mounting area:




















I actually WOULD completely fill that ENTIRE upper seat-back cross-member with the good flexible 2-part urethane foam. You can tape-off or use polyfill stuffing to block off any areas you don't want the foam to fill (for wiring, etc.) or use a short piece of PVC pipe. Seal off the rest of the holes temporarily with blue painter's tape and then once the foam has cured apply a few layers of sound-deadening mat and then a thin layer of Ensolite. Just have to make sure that it's not too built-up so you can get the rear seats back in!

There are a few reasons I would do this:

1. You've got it all exposed and easily accessible right now.
2. You see how that cross-member straddles the top center of each wheel well? Those wheel wells have the potential to transfer quite a bit of noise and vibration to that cross-member and on into the cabin through the rear shelf/package tray and C-pillars.
3. This will also help to better seal the back wave of the sub(s), or the front wave in your case  from the main cabin, and also considerably dampen any energy transferred from your sub and baffle to this area.

Maybe it seems like overkill, but I personally would want to do everything possible to minimize any vibrations or resonance when mounting these [email protected] subs IB in this type of a setup.

If there is any gap or clearance whatsoever, you might think about cutting some narrow strips of MLV and stick them to the outer edge of your frame, between the frame and where it contacts the sheet metal of the car, all the way around, to further dampen and solidify the area.

My goal with any "enclosure" or baffle is to produce a situation where you just hear the sound waves that the speaker cone is producing, and nothing else.

I'll apologize ahead of time...I'm just a wee bit anal and OCD. It's easy to tell others to "do this" and "do that" when I can just sit back and watch somebody else do all the work on this build, lol.  It's just that after a few years and multiple installs, I've grown a bit tired of "do overs" and I'll try to do everything I can possibly think of the 1st time. Hmm...Maybe that's why it seems to take me years to finish a build, huh?! :blush:

I really like the direction this build is going, and I'm sure it will look and sound amazing in the end.  Looking forward to your progress. It's inspiring me to get started with the planning for a build I need to start this spring. Keep on installin'!


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 29, 2007)

bbfoto,

The first picture above is actually from my Accord not his Civic.


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## sbcaprice305 (Jan 17, 2012)

Lookin good so far.


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## sbcaprice305 (Jan 17, 2012)

Oops, dp..


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Mirage_Man said:


> bbfoto,
> 
> The first picture above is actually from my Accord not his Civic.


DOH! Thanks for the clarification.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I should be back to working on the car in the next couple of days. I've had some family stuff going on for a few days that required some attention and I've been busy at work as well.

I will probably just be installing the 660 mids in the doors for the time being. I'd like to make it to FreezeFest next month and I don't think I could pull off the kicks the way I'd like in the time given. Besides it would move me down one class where I might stand a fighting chance!


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Managed to get the frame all done besides running out of spray-in bed-liner I'm coating it in. Got the top plate welding in and welded in nuts on the backside that will hold the sub baffle to the frame. I had to modify the bottom corners as well. I ended up cutting the corners out so I could pass all the required wire's into the trunk.

I still have to make the baffle for the sub but my O.C.D. is getting the best of me and I really want symmetry and I keep telling myself I want to use 2 15". I'm actually thinking of selling my AE IB15a and getting something more readily available like a Dayton HF 15". Someone please tell me I'm crazy or just sell me your IB15a! I do have the wood all ready to go so I'll knock the baffle out in the next couple of days since it will be so lovely outside!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

Honestly, I think you'll be more than fine with a single 15". You heard my setup and when you heard it, I had the subs attenuated so much, I may as well have been running one sub. Still that way. In fact, the only reason I still have 2 is because I bought 2.

The good thing is that, with your baffle/bracing design, you can easily swap out baffles if you find one 15" isn't enough and you want to try something else.

One word of caution/wisdom/randomness/whathaveyou: add a center bar for bracing in that frame. You'll be glad you did it now. Trust me.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

bikinpunk said:


> Honestly, I think you'll be more than fine with a single 15". You heard my setup and when you heard it, I had the subs attenuated so much, I may as well have been running one sub. Still that way. In fact, the only reason I still have 2 is because I bought 2.
> 
> The good thing is that, with your baffle/bracing design, you can easily swap out baffles if you find one 15" isn't enough and you want to try something else.
> 
> One word of caution/wisdom/randomness/whathaveyou: add a center bar for bracing in that frame. You'll be glad you did it now. Trust me.


I really couldn't even tell your subs were on but it's been so long since I heard your car to be honest. The funny thing is I had another IB15 from the trade that we worked out in that deal but sold the damn thing like a retard!

Is the recommendation of the brace just for rigidity/baffle resonance or something else? PM if you don't want the public to know all your secrets! Haha!


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

well, then! lol. 

Yep, rigidity. 
I'd also explore options for decoupling that frame from the car or the baffle from that frame.  Any resonance will carry down the chassis.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Glad to see you back at work on the Civic! 

I think you'll be fine with the single IB15 as well. I currently have an old-school single 15" in a sealed enclosure in one of my cars, and it doesn't have nearly as much excursion capability as the AE IB15...and it creates more than enough bass for me for a balanced system and is adequate for a little extra bump when desired.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Alright, got started and mostly finished with the baffle today. I used 2 pieces of 3/4" birch ply to make the baffle. I still have a little more to do like countersink the sub the rest of the way, install the threaded inserts to mount the sub and countersink the hardware that will attach the baffle to the frame. I added some fiberglass filler around the edge to close up some of the gaps as the top piece of wood is just a little bigger to help cover up the frame a little. 


Here is a shot of the baffle with the sub sitting in it.












As you can see here I didn't countersink the sub far enough yet. I ran out of daylight before I could finish it.












Here's a shot of the backside. 













To decouple the the sub I'm thinking I may install rubber slugs on the backside and front side of the baffle. I'm going to have to trim the baffle more in some areas so as not to touch the frame anywhere. If anyone has another idea or thinks doing this won't work please chime in.

I also think I may have a figured out where the amps are going. The spare tire has a foam piece that sits above it that holds the tire tools. If I remove the foam and relocate the tools that gives me a decent amount of depth to work with. I'd still have to raise the floor maybe an inch or 2. It would just be something very simple. I don't need plexiglass or neons as I need my trunk for stuff as this is my daily driver.


I may work on it a little tomorrow but I'm going gun shopping for an AR-15 and with the Super bowl on I can't promise anything.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Just wanted to give everyone a little update.

I just wanted to put it out there that the build is probably going a different direction for the time being. I just don't have a lot of time to work on the car due to various personal reasons . I've also had a few unexpected expenses and as many know, car audio isn't exactly a top priority. I will probably still put a little something in the car but nothing really fancy. 

Most of the equipment is is going to have to go to a new home so be on the look out for some classified ads.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk


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## pionkej (Feb 29, 2008)

nar93da said:


> Just wanted to give everyone a little update.
> 
> I just wanted to put it out there that the build is probably going a different direction for the time being. I just don't have a lot of time to work on the car due to various personal reasons . I've also had a few unexpected expenses and as many know, car audio isn't exactly a top priority. I will probably still put a little something in the car but nothing really fancy.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear that man. It's no fun when that happens, but you're right on about priorities.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Well, I'm back to working on the car after having to let a few pieces go and downgrade. It pained me to sell a few things but sometimes it's best to take a step back and re-evaluate your plans and goals. I'm not trying to be a world champ, I just want something nice for a daily driver. 

The HX-D1 has been swapped out for a Eclipse CD7200mkII. The 660's are gone in favor of some Audible Physic's PP6.5 mids and a set of Vifa XT25 ring radiator tweets. I still have the both the Zapco's but already have both the replacements. I got a Arc Audio XDi804 that will be under the drivers seat and an old school Alpine monoblock for the AE IB15A.

The frame holding the sub baffle is all done and is bolted in to the car already. The baffle has been carpeted and is also ready to go in so one thing is pretty much done. I have the weekend off but Sunday I'm going to a gun show and gotta go shoot my new toy so I probably won't get much done. 


The mids and tweets that will power the front stage. I still plan on putting the mids down in the kicks, so that hasn't change.






















Here is the Arc amp. I was very surprised at the size of this thing! It measures in at 8.25" x 6.5" and damn does it have some power. I've included some gut shots as well.






























































I wanted to show my little testing/listening rig I built a few months back for at work. It uses a Samlex rackmount dual 25A power supply with old Quart 6.5" I've had for years. I've got the 7200 playing right now just testing it as well as the Arc.


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

Glad you're back at it! Even with the gear swaps this is going to be a sweet system. 

Staying tuned...


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I've been doing a little work here and there on the car as I have time. I've got another equipment change unfortunately. I pulled the trigger on the Audible Physics drivers before I modeled them in a sealed kick enclosure and I just won't have enough airspace to fully utilize them. I've got a few drivers in mind and have committed on a set but it's a secret!

I went ahead and installed the CD7200 to motivate my lazy ass since it forces me to drive the car with no sound! I also took the liberty of cleaning up the face and removing most of the silk screening on the face.












I made the mount for the Arc XDi under the drivers side seat. I just took a 1/4 piece of MDF and installed some hurricane nuts on the bottom. The board is held to the floor with Loctite construction adhesive. 












I can finally say the sub baffle is all done and installed. The only thing really left is to make a new board that will cover the spare tire and wrap the board the covers the area where the fuel pump access is.






















Well, time to back back to it. Just had to take a break to grab some lunch.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Well, I've got a few updates for everyone. I've been slowly getting back into working on the car but with upgrades of course! One big upgrade is the swap for some Anthony Gallo Micro Ti full range drivers up front in the pillars.












I went back and forth on this for a while on doing it or not and finally just bought the damn things. They save me a ton of fabrication time which is always a plus. After listening to them for a week or so I decided to go ahead and keep them and put them in the ride.

I was contemplating on a mount for them and found a mount for a pod for a camera and it bolted right up. Below is a shot of the back side of the pillar. I put 1/8 plate steel to spread the load of the pod out so not to rip the mount out. I also added rubber spacers to isolate the pod from the car. I didn't have these at first and found out really fast something would need to be done. The pod would shake and vibrate badly with the car at idle and over bumpy roads. All vibration is gone for the most part now.

































I should say right now that I don't have any listening impressions of them installed in the civic yet as I still have to run wire to the XDi804 that will power them. Should have them powered by this weekend hopefully if I'm not to busy. 


Here is a photo of them together. They are not aimed as I wanted to get a photo before the sun went down.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Just wanted to let anyone paying attention still that I'll have some updates in the next couple of days. I've been working a little on the kick panel enclosure's for the midbass'. I'm cutting a nice large section out in the kick panel area and bottom floor area that is double walled. Pictures would do great here and I'll do my best to get some better photo's of the process.

I should also mention that the midbass drivers that I will be using are Exodus Anarchy's.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I'll bring you all up to the point where I'm at right now. Here are some photo's of what I'm working with down in the kick area on each side.






















I plan on running the midbass' is sealed enclosure's and trying to get the most space possible will require me to cut into the floor. I also need to cut some metal to get some space for the Anarchy's. Below I've outlined the area which will be cut out. This area is double walled so I'm going to seal it off with some sheet metal to get the required airspace.












I had a chance to make the baffle for the passenger side already and do a few other things to it. I went and bought some 00 lead buck shot for reloading shot gun shells with the purpose of mass loading the midbass baffle's. I routed out the backside of the baffle in a few areas and mixed the buck shot with fiberglass filler and now the baffle weighs in at 4lbs. That ring is just sitting on the baffle, I haven't fastened it down yet. The grill will pop into it when all carpeted.






















I'm sure everyone has seen them but here are the beefy Anarchy mids in all there glory.





















With the change to the Anarchy's I needed to move to an amp that would move them with them being 8 ohm and the sensitivity being terrible. I picked up an Orion XTR 800.4 that will provide 200W to each if needed. It isn't a looker but it's going under the rear deck. I've already removed the trunk springs and installed gass struts.












I also noticed I never included shots of the backside of the sub baffle completed. I just made a simple board that is slightly elevated to allow wire to pass underneath to get to the Orion.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

nar93da said:


> I'll bring you all up to the point where I'm at right now. Here are some photo's of what I'm working with down in the kick area on each side.
> 
> With the change to the Anarchy's I needed to move to an amp that would move them with them being 8 ohm and the sensitivity being terrible. I picked up an Orion XTR 800.4 that will provide 200W to each if needed. It isn't a looker but it's going under the rear deck. I've already removed the trunk springs and installed gass struts.
> 
> ...


I like all of this.  I am contemplating changing over to IB and I would want it to look like this.


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## scooter99 (Dec 21, 2008)

Not sure how I missed the progress on this, but nice job man. Looking great!


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Managed to get a little more done on the passenger side kick today since it was a little slow at work today. I still need to do a little more trimming on the metal but most of the hard work is done. The massive motor on the Anarchy still hits metal before being fully seated. May not be much of a problem when the baffle is moved out slightly and fully secured. The way I look at it is that if I can fit an Anarchy down there, any 7" driver will fit that I'd ever want to try. Well, beside's that big ass Tang Band?
































As you can possibly make out from the pictures the floor area is pretty much sealed. It has that one hole that goes straight out to the bottom as well as the area that vents into the outside frame rail. I already closed off the small hole to the outside with some plate steel. I will play around with a woofer tester to see if I need to vent to the frame or not.













Alright, the next thing I would like to do is say a big sorry to Erin. I had no intentions of making kicks that will look so similar. It's just the best way to go about it after doing some brainstorming. 












Next thing on the to do list is to start working on the drivers side. I have to extend 14 wires so I can move 3 harness connectors out of the way.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Like those kicks!!!


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

Excellent job, so far!

Wish I could do the same in my Civ, but can't because of the clutch pedal and my quasi-Sasquatch stature.
I almost accidently put my foot through Erin's 18w Scans, just getting into the driver's seat.:blush::blush:


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

IBcivic said:


> Excellent job, so far!
> 
> Wish I could do the same in my Civ, but can't because of the clutch pedal and quasi Sasquatch stature.
> I almost accidently put my foot through Erin's 18w Scans, just getting into the driver's seat.:blush::blush:


Luckily I'm not a big guy and I never used the dead pedal so not much is lost. They seem to take up a lot of space right now just bare and exposed but from sitting in Erin's Civic they don't seem too obtrusive when all hidden. 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


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## metalball (Sep 8, 2010)

Would be cool if you could cosmetically make the kicks a bit different than Erin's. Unique grill, waveguide, etc.


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## tai01 (Dec 11, 2011)

wow. Nice work so far! I do like those Gallo's. 

Wish I had the knack for doing this myself..


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Not a whole lot to report on today. I did trim out more metal and can now say the Anarchy fits in without touching any metal! 

The only other thing I did today was move the hood release up higher since it would get in the way on the drivers side. I just used some random metal bracket I had in my toolbox and installed some riv-nuts and bolted it in to an existing bolt. Probably the easiest thing to do so far on the build.


Here is what the hole looks like now after doing a little more trimming. 











Here is just a mock up of the baffle and speaker together.













These photo's of the cable may not be the best due to the angle and all but I tried my best.


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## rawdawg (Apr 27, 2007)

Are those baffles curved? How did you get the wood to do that?


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

rawdawg said:


> Are those baffles curved? How did you get the wood to do that?


No, the baffles are completely flat. Your eyes may be playing tricks on you. I'm guessing your looking at the upper edge that sits against the firewall?


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I'm feel like I'm making some good progress now. I managed to get all the wiring extended this afternoon while at work. I had to extend 14 wires in all to move 2 plugs up and clear the baffle. The blue plug pictured below already had enough slack in it. 

In all I extended each plug around 7-8 inches. It was more then needed but I didn't want to have to do it twice. Everything was properly soldered and heatshrinked. The main thing I was concerned with was a big bundle of heat shrink in one spot so I had to stagger where the solder joints were.


Here is an earlier shot of the connectors in question. Like I said above, only the 2 white connectors need to be extended. The blue one has plenty of slack to just be moved already.












Here we are with both harness' extended and taped up.












This is what the area looks like all buttoned up and pretty now! Were ready to make the baffle for the drivers side now.






















In the following photo you can see where I have the connectors now. You can see the 2 white one's and the blue connector is behind them and up further.













Tomorrow I plan on making the baffle for the drivers side and making some brackets to mount the baffles to the chassis. I'm tired of driving around with no tunes. If I have the chance I need to find out how much space I'm working with and measure the enclosures.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I didn't get as much done today as I was wanting. I did get the drivers side baffle mostly done and had to rearrange the wiring on the drivers side.


Here we are with the final resting spots for the wiring. As you can see I separated the wiring I extended to go all the way to the fire wall. The other harness goes to the fuse panel and has close to 20 wires in it and I'm not extending those!












Here is a shot of the baffle just in mock-up stage. I used the passenger side template and flipped it over and made minor adjustments to fit around the wiring. The best part is that I took a little more time deciding where to place the hole for the driver and the damn thing almost fits without having to cut out the hole in the floor. I'm still cutting the hole though!






















To install the lead shot in the backside of the baffle first I routed out around the backside of the baffle probably 1/2" deep. 












I only had about 1.5lbs of lead left but wanted to go ahead and use it up. I just mix the lead shot with fiberglass filler and spread the mixture into the routed out part. 5lbs. boxes are available at Sportsman's Warehouse locally in the reloading section for $24.99.


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## Midwestrider (Aug 10, 2007)

Nice build here! 
OT - do you still have your 750.2? Pm me with your plans for it.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Midwestrider said:


> Nice build here!
> OT - do you still have your 750.2? Pm me with your plans for it.


Sorry, The Zapco amps are long gone. Someone got a smoking deal on them.


I was contacted by another member asking for some measurements down in the kick panel a few days ago and figured I'd share them with all. I have yet to take measurements of volume but should have that in a few days. 

I did have some free time today to go ahead and cut the drivers side so all measurements will be from that side.


This is the bottom inside edge from the floor down to the cavity. Just a little under 2"













This is the outside edge in the same area, floor to bottom of cavity.













Now on to the measurements from the baffle to the floor. This will give you an idea of mounting depth. The hole diameter is a hair over 6" which would allow me to use any 7" driver on the market at the moment, Scan-Speak Illuminator included.

First one is from the right side of the driver cutout. Looks to be around 5.5"














Now for the left side of the driver cutout. Around 4.25"













Bottom side of driver cutout. 4.25" again.














Top of driver cutout. Looks to be around 3 & 3/8"














Now I tried to eyeball the middle of the baffle and take a depth measurement but it is somewhat close. Possibly around 5.5" or so.













Now, I'm sure you could fit an 8" driver down there if you played around with location and made a few baffles. All the 7" and 6.5" gives you more options to chose from. The motor size is a big factor as well, I could fit a deeper driver than the Anarchy if it had a neo motor for sure. 

I found out that the area I cut into had a few more holes to the outside as well. It has one at the upper inside corner of each side. The other is at the bottom inside corner. I just filled the area with more construction adhesive to seal it right up.


If anyone needs anything else I'd be more then happy to assist them.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Did just a little work today before I permanently mount the baffle in the car. I went out and bought another 5lbs. of lead shot but in #4 size, which is smaller then the 00 I was using and some non-hardening modeling clay. The goal is to line the kick panel area with a layer of the 2 mixed together to hopefully reduce any panel/enclosure resonance from the metal. 

As of now all I've gotten done is the cavity lined with a 1/4" layer. A layer of Rammat will sit over the clay to hold everything together and another layer of dampening.























Since I never posted a shot of the drivers side hole, here is one below. Have some dampening around the edges so I don't cut a finger off!













I can't take credit for this next idea. I saw it at Erin's GTG last year and loved it, I can't remember who's car though. Someone had a charger set-up for their vehicle and it was set-up on a little dolly to roll it around. I bought an Iota DLS-55 a few months ago and used a spare distribution block I had. I still need to make the leads that connect to the car and make the leads for the vehicle side as well.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I spent the day today finishing up the sound deadening for both sides. I also attempted to mount the drivers side baffle, didn't work out as planned but more on that later.

As with the passenger side I lined the inner cavity with a mixture of clay and lead shot. I then put a layer of CLD over that and covered the area where the baffle with eventual sit with multiply layers of CLD. There are areas where the CLD is 4-5 layers thick.























Here's a shot of the passenger side after all the deadener has been applied.













As for the failure of mounting the baffles? I made some brackets from aluminum, which took forever(almost 3 hours). Go to install the Anarchy and the damn thing won't go in all the way! It hits the CLD and modeling clay, ****! I take a break and remove the brackets and lay the baffle in another way and it still fits. The brackets I made move the driver in a way that it won't fit. Back to the drawing board tomorrow.


I was also wondering if anyone that has used the Anarchy in a sealed enclosure could speak up. I'm curious as to how big the enclosure was. I took some time the other night and measured the passenger side to be around 4.5-5L which doesn't model that great and overall Q is higher then I'd like so I'm thinking of venting them into the chassis.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

Cant help you with the dirver not fitting or in a sealed enclosure. However, thats some impresive treatment to those kicks.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

sydmonster said:


> Cant help you with the dirver not fitting or in a sealed enclosure. However, thats some impresive treatment to those kicks.


No worries, I have made new brackets and the baffle is mounted and driver is mounted. Need to seal up the edges and do all the finish work to make them look all pretty! I'll have pictures sometime tomorrow.


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## sydmonster (Oct 5, 2009)

a! Ha!
So their in! beefy much!

yes, some f-glassing coming up for you? assuming you'll seal them up with glass?


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Got the baffles mounted on both sides and all sealed up around the edges. I have to apologize for photo's of them and all. I was rushed for time and my hands were a little messy from the expanding foam used to seal around the edges. Yes, both the Anarchy's still fit without issues, thankfully!

I ran the wires for the midbass and dash mounted full ranges before I applied the foam. I still haven't decided on how I'm going to finish these cosmetically. I've thought about carbon fiber but have never messed with it, so it would be uncharted territory. I need to get some ideas. I'm buying new carpet which will be black since the tan gets dirty so easily so I have to keep that in mind. 























I'm actually starting to see an end in sight. I've had no carpet and most of the interior out of the car since I bought it back in September of last year! I'm a slacker, yes. Tonight I wanted to lay down the CCF and MLV I already had measured out but was waiting to determine the kick location. I also covered the floor ducts with CCF to prevent any rattles against the MLV. These photo's aren't that great as I had no sunlight. The entire floor is now covered with CCF and MLV, just haven't gotten any shots of it yet behind the front seats.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I'm waiting for my new carpet and the carpet for the kicks to get here and decided to start something I originally planned. A filler plate that will block the sound wave traveling up through the dash on the drivers side. Here is the area as it sits right now. 













I used a bunch of cardboard to make a template. I had to work around the brake and gas pedal, fuse panel, steering shaft and A/C duct. The OBDII connector is also down there so I had to make sure not to cover it up. Here is the template.












Then transfered that to some 1/4 plywood that I had.












Here is a idea of the board just taped in place. I still need to make some brackets to mount it which is going to be fun as there aren't a whole not of places down there for brackets. I plan on covering it with some acoustic foam and then grill cloth or something.

Damn, just noticed the hood release in the picture below! I'm going to have to figure something out about that. May just devise a way to fasten with some plastic panel clips


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

NICE


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Not sure who's paying attention but just have a small update. I'm trying a new driver out in the kick panels due to the Anarchy's being to deep and the QTS was just too high to work with. I ended up having to install aperiodic vents and in doing so took all remaining mounting depth with it even with a 1/4" spacer. Even with the vent in place I still couldn't get the driver to sound correct. They have just been put back on the shelf right now and plan on using them in tapped horns.

Now, on to the Gallo's. After I got them installed and had some time to listen to them I was really unimpressed with the midrange. I've tried EQ work and aiming them different but a the issue is still present. I've still got them installed but will see what the future holds.

The driver that has caught my eye ever since the release is the Dayton Audio PS180-8. Yep, another Full-range driver! I went ahead and purchased 1 to see how bass extension would be and to just give it a listen. My initial impressions are, wow! Midbass is very tight and punchy but output could be more. Vocals are very good and detailed. The top end is very, very bright and painful to listen to at high volume levels. The factory response graph shows a rising response from around 3kHz and is very evident here. It's nothing a high shelfing filter could fix though. The stage height has been sacrificed and I was expecting it but is still around middle of dash high. It blends with the IB15a pretty damn good. Time to order the other one and see how it sounds then! 

I'll try and get some better shot's but it was getting late and everyone loves photo's.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

getting there


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## rimshot (May 17, 2005)

this is a really cool project! I am sad you didnt get to crank those anarchy's. Did you install them and get bad results or did they just continue to model poorly? I thought they were supposed to be OK in ib (if it was at all possible to fit them in with the ap vents of course)?


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## mitchjr (Mar 8, 2010)

Subscribed


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I've been busy lately planning some changes with the system since I wasn't really happy with the Gallo's. I had planned on installing 18W Revelator's down in the floor but couldn't bring myself to drop the coin on a new pair. Well, some popped up and I snatched them. I also decided to try some tweeters out from Wavecor. I bought some 1" dome tweeters to try out. A few of there other drivers get good reviews and test rather well and the price is outstanding.




















I noticed I never really posted finished photo's of the kicks. I'm still rocking the Dayton full-ranges at the moment. I ended up making some grills so nobody puts there foot through one as well. You really can't even tell they're in the car and I don't even bother telling most people and just let them figure it out when the ask "WTF is that"? You can also tell in the picture below I installed an Eclipse 6 disc changer.


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## TRD07 (Oct 13, 2009)

ballers live on.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I also had to install a new battery since the old one was getting pretty weak and was having trouble on a few of the cooler days we've had lately. So I picked up an XS power D5100R and love it.












I've been buying a few amps also just to try out. I've picked up a SS D60II and D100II and the D100 is actually bridged powering the sub and sounds great and is plenty of power for it. I got a Linear Power 2202 as well to power the revelator. This is the first LP amp I've ever owned and damn do these things have some power!

I also picked up a Sony CDX-C90 for dirt cheap that had a dim display. Luckily I'm getting it repaired for a good price so that will be replacing the Eclipse eventually. Before I sent the C90 out I painted the machined look face a textured black. I'll get pictures when I get it back in a few weeks.


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

This looks great. Interested to hear about the Scan and wavecor combo.


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## quality_sound (Dec 25, 2005)

The LPs are nice but barely make rated power and are weak when bridged. I LOVE the old SS D-series amps.


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

Those Sound Stream amps are just EPIC! Classy looking, sound great and well, I cant think of anything negative about them... 

Sorry I missed this but whatever came of the stone baffle? I thought this would be a hard task but I really like to see people be able to make things like that happen that they really want. 

If you want to really give it a go and want the ULTIMATE in stone, I did about a years worth of research when I was doing my kitchen. 
Quartz Countertops, Kitchen Design Ideas - Caesarstone

Then when you win the lotto you can look at the really posh stuff they make. This stuff is UNREAL expensive, I mean damn near makes you nauseous. I settled for the manufactured stuff they make and not the stupid high end stuff... HOLD ONTO YOUR GENTLEMAN PARTS if you price this. My local and regional Ceasarstone dealer/reps had never even heard of this "other" line.... lol
No doubt this other stuff is without question the prettiest stone counter top material you can purchase this day and age. I know the link is for petrified wood but any of these is breath taking..

Caesarstone Concetto - 8330 Petrified Wood

Likin this install!! 
Cheers,
Scott


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

I was going to be able to get the stone for free but they didn't have my choice in stock and the company was going through some rough times. I decided it was best to forgo it at the time. They have a lot of pink granite laying around I could have but its ugly as sin.

I may stick to the Soundstream amps in the end just due to size and I like to have all matching amps. I've got OCD bad and it affects more then just my car audio! 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


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## FLYONWALL9 (Nov 8, 2009)

I hear ya on the stone... I do have an idea if you would like to
stick to that design but may not know how to go through with
it. How about stained concrete? It is super simple to do and 
really cheap. Best part of it is you can pour it to whatever
shape you desire.

I know very much how you feel with the OCD thing and not
just audio wise. So, I truly get the symmetry thing.


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

Got an update that isn't audio related. I was tired of rocking steelies and hubcaps so I changed the wheels. I ended up going with a set of oem Si wheels that I had powder coated white. I also ended up lowering the car on H&R springs to give it a better stance and get rid of the 4x4 look. Yes, I also bought a camber kit for the rear, I went with the adjustable upper control arms. I still have to paint the center caps white and I got some red "H" to go on them.











I will have some build updates sometime after the first of the year as work and other things are taking up a lot of time lately. 

The C90 is still getting repaired but I will be using a Helix P-DSP for a processor. I also picked up a set of Morel 4" Integra Ovation's that I may or may not use in the a-pillar's as I'd really like to try out the Wavecor tweeters. My only reason for using the Morels is that mostly all the cars in Modex use a 3-way front end and I think a 2-way would get spanked!


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## bbfoto (Aug 28, 2005)

The new wheels look sweet...nice, clean, minimalistic look with a good stance. Waiting to see what you've done with the c90 faceplate.


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## co_leonard (Aug 14, 2009)

Awesome build! 

Just curious, how much internal volume do you have in your kickpanels?


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## nar93da (Dec 11, 2008)

co_leonard said:


> Awesome build!
> 
> Just curious, how much internal volume do you have in your kickpanels?


Before driver displacement, there is 3.5L in each kick panel. 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


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## co_leonard (Aug 14, 2009)

nar93da said:


> Before driver displacement, there is 3.5L in each kick panel.
> 
> Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2


I see. Thanks. 

How low do you high-pass your midbass?


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