# Darkrider's 2015 Kia Forte5 SX - What am I thinking?!?!



## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Something I've always wanted to do, since I started coming to this site, is do my own build log. I was going to do one on my last car, the 2014 Chevy Cruze, but due to the need to have it done for a Winter GTG (thanks Notloudenuf), I rushed through it really quick and took minimal pictures. Oh well, maybe next time.

Welcome to next time.

Here is my victim (beside my baby), a 2015 Kia Forte5 SX (w/Premium Package).





Next up - Stock driver / source locations.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Here are the stock driver locations.

Tweets:



Mids:


Stock UVO Head unit:


Next up - Where do I put these massive Mosconi's?!?!


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*So the KIA is awesome. Super fun to drive, and looks to be a great candidate for my build.

Here is the stock FALSE FLOOR!!! (yeah, I love how this worked out)*




*There is a top tray that fits over this piece, but I took it out because this sits at about the height I want the amps to be:
*


*So here is my current idea. I'll have the amps laid out like this, with a second battery (and isolator) between the amps.
*


*I'm not 100% sure I'll be complacent with the AVH-X5700BHS's processor features, so I placed the 3Sixty.3 in to see if it would squeeze in. Maybe...
*


*So I took everything out to verify that the battery would clear the false floor.
*


*Checked the cover and it fits with probably 1/2"-3/4" of space above the terminals (which will be removed for this anyway.

I think it's going to be a super-tight fit to get all of this to fit. Yeah, looks great right now, but I don't have any primary #1/0 power and ground or #4 amp power and grounds attached to anything yet. My concern is that once I get them in there, it won't be doable.

If all of that works out to be too little space, I might remove the side trays to give myself the needed room, and then create some bracing to shore-up the false floor. It needs to be solid, because 2 x JL Audio 12w6v3's will be perched on top of it all (unless I can work out a trade with someone for some different subs). I would love to do something like a pair of SI BM MKIV's or something like that.*


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

So that's where I am currently. About to order some install items I need (like dash kit, harness, door speaker adapters, etc).

Another thing I have going on right now is I need to finish installing the OEM body kit on my Camaro. Need another pair of hands to get that done though.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

In a well packed box, shipped to South Jersey lol.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Oh dang! Nice!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

sub'd because i have a similar car also with 2 mosconi amps and a second battery in the hatch. I cant wait to see what you do. Its still a little chilly in VT to do all the wiring in mine, so i am watching this for inspiration


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Subscribed to see more Camaro pics....nice car!!!!!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

My Rio will be 3 years old on 4/4. I'm still rocking the stock UVO HU (until I finish my tablet install). It is tough to switch. The UVO does AM/FM/CD/SiriusXM/Jukebox/Aux/iPod (and Zune)/USB/Streaming and a backup camera.
Combined with a processor, it's a pretty good combo.

Nice color choice, BTW. lol

Jay


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## Notloudenuf (Sep 14, 2008)

You have 5 weeks. Plenty of time 

Tuning in for more pictures.


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

I keep telling myself the same thing. 5 weeks doesn't seem like much.

Jay


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

I'm sub'd, just simply because its a Kia and there aren't many of us out there using their vehicles. Plus, you are an awesome designer and I know you'll come up with something really cool in that space.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Got the radio wiring harness and battery isolator delivered today.

Anyone have any thoughts on best location for the isolator? Are there any issues to look out for if I decide to install it in the engine compartment?

I got the PAC SPR-200 battery isolator with the BG12 battery monitor module. My plan was to install the isolator in the engine compartment and then have the monitor module LED on one of my empty dash button slots (the little slots beside the traction control and heated steering wheel buttons) like the picture below.



Thoughts?


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## djfourmoney (Nov 30, 2008)

I was looking to get one of these but I couldn't find a 6 speed manual in California, at least not in Southern California. I found some in Northern California but I needed to get the price around $16,000 and I don't know if I could have gotten an SX for that even if it was base equipment which do exist.

Not sure I want to sub however, seems like another surfboard amp build and Kia's for some reason were given different hatch treatment over the Hyundai versions which allow for a cargo tray just above the spare tire.

I have the same lack of a spare with a flat repair kit instead. Because the Elantra/Forte twins are physically larger, 'glassing in the hatch floor for a sub would yield more available air space over the Accent/Rio twins.

Good Luck


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

VERY nice... looking forward to this!


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Whew - 2 rough days working on this car and not much progress.

*March 29, 2015*
Had a busy Saturday, so figured I would take it easy and probably just work on getting the engine bay done. I decided to start with the Big three upgrade. Then I spent over an hour looking for my multimeter. So yeah, not a good start.

Here is what I was working with.


The battery terminal has a 150A fuse between the Alt and the battery. Wonder why they put one there.


Yeah, I took that off. It takes up too much valuable space anyway. I usually like to "double-up" the stock wiring, but in this case I had to replace.


The other end attached to the Alternator. Easiest one I have ever had to get to. It's literally on the front of the alternator between the motor and the radiator fan.


Next upgrade is the grounding. I was able to just "double-up" for the ground strap.


The engine ground strap attached to an intake stud. There is a metal sleeve in the composite intake that can't be seen, but it's there.


A little farther back view.


I couldn't locate a suitable place for my battery isolator. Looks like it will be installed inside the passenger compartment, probably in the back with the second battery and the amps, etc.

That's all I got done last weekend.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*April 4, 2015*

Today I was feeling ambitious. I figured I would go crazy and try to get the head unit wired up/figured out. The Metra harness only has the basic pins for basic connections. This will not do for me. My replacement unit has aux-in and USB and my car has matching ports in the console. They WILL be connected and operating as if the Pioneer was the stock head unit.

So, step 1. Remove stock radio. So much easier said then done. I'm jus sayin there was some swearin done at the direction of Metra manual editors.





So I spent the next 2 hours disassembling / de-pinning the Metra Harness that I had in my 2014 Cruze to salvage and re-purpose the pins for the new harness. I believe I actually pulled it off. I still need to make a USB cable, but I actually got almost everything else working. Steering wheel controls work (that took way too long to get straight - again, swearing at Metra), stuff turns on and off as it should, etc. Then, I hit another impasse. I could not figure out why I could not get the factory backup camera to work. I knew it was getting power and that the signal wires were correct, but something wasn't right. I wasn't getting anything from it.

After troubleshooting for a while, I discovered that the stock backup camera is only getting 7V from the stock head unit. I guess it didn't like the 12.6V I was sending it. I didn't mess it up (lucky, I know), but I currently have nothing that could drop that 12.6V down to 7V. So, I went upstairs to my PC and ordered a variable-voltage regulator from Amazon. Sadly, it was too late in the day to overnight it, but they should have it here on SUNDAY... Yeah, Sunday. So, that part got put on pause.

I decided to see how far South my luck could run in one day, so I popped off the tweeter grills in the dash. Looks standard fare, so no real surprises. I may have to modify my plans for the pods I had in mind, but it doesn't look insurmountable.

Them stock tweets are so cute! :laugh: The ML280's are enormous in contrast. 



Next up was the door panels. I removed the passenger side door panel to reveal this beauty.


A giant, plastic, pain in the bottom. I have the stock 6.5" removed for the above photo. There isn't a lot of clearance between the plastic panel and the window glass - probably only 1.5" - getting the Hertz ML1600's to fit may take something akin to a miracle. I really do not want to have to cut the dor cards, but there may not be much choice in the end.


The speaker adapters I bought do not fit. They do not flush against the plastic. I may be able to trim them down, but I'm afraid if I trim them too much that the magnet will be rubbing glass. It may be moot though as the adapters might be too tall to clear the door card. 

The stock speaker is on the right, the Hertz ML1600 on the left.


So, that's pretty much how I ended a pretty rough day. It wasn't a rough day because of my fight with my car though.

While I was in the garage, One of my neighbors came over to talk to me. This neighbor I rarely ever talk with. He's just not my kind of people. Anyway, he told me that my other neighbor's 21 year old daughter was killed in a car wreck this morning. I really like those neighbors, and I was gutted when I heard. She was a beautiful girl, and her parents are just awesome people. Her mother told my wife later that when the Trooper came to their house this morning at 5AM that all she kept thinking while descending her stairs to answer the door was "please let her be in jail." That really makes my frustration with my build seem so small and insignificant.

Hug your kids and family and tell 'em that you love 'em.

Until next time, here is a picture and a message from my sad Camaro that has to sleep outside tonight.


I'll be back at it tomorrow.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Ok, so my previous post should have been *- APRIL 3RD -* and not the 4th....so anyways....

*- April 4th -*

So, not a lot of progress was really made today. I had an idea of a way to make the door speaker adapters work, and it ended up actually working. I had to shave down / cut the tabs that were closes to the door hinges, but it worked and the ML1600's squeezed in.










The I got the tweeters to sit in the dash temporarily until I can get started on making some pods.










That's it for the 4th. Couldn't go much farther as I was waiting on the voltage regulator for the rear camera, but it was to be delivered on the 5th.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*- April 5th -*

More fun.

Got the voltage regulator in today and got the voltage dialed in to exactly what the factory voltage was and........ still got no video.

Turned out that the wiring diagram I had was incorrect. Figured that out by tracing wire colors to the front harness. I switched the pins and WOOT!!! It makes me wonder if I really even needed the voltage regulator and if the stock camera would have worked without it. Eh, better safe than sorry, so I left the regulator in the circuit.

I was also having trouble with the USB in the console. I had spliced a cable into the factory wiring. Everything I plugged into the console would get power, but nothing would communicate with the head unit. It was like the TX and RX lines were not getting a good enough signal.

I found a higher quality USB cable and....... still nothing. It makes me sad really. I really have a thing about cables hanging out of my console. I believed that I had the Aux cable working fine, but I didn't. More on that later...










I didn't put the trim pieces back on because nothing had be connected in the rear, and I didn't want to damage the pieces too much by taking them in and out a lot.










That was it for the day. This also started my week of suffering. Not having music in my car is just miserable for me. I have a relatively short commute (25 miles or so) but the traffic can be horrendous. I almost took an iPod speaker dock and put it in the car just so I could have something.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*- April 11th -*

I went over to a buddies house - he has an awesome wood shop, and he's a talented carpenter. We trade favors a lot, and he's a music lover, so he loves to help me do this stuff.

I didn't take as many pictures as I wanted to, but here is the progress.

We started by building a super strong amp rack / battery case. This thing is much more sturdy than I had imagined. It has a 2x4 frame with 5/8" MDF screwed to the top.










Just a quick photo showing his shop.










We also made a trim panel to go over everything. My plan is to provide some nice LED backlighting around the view ports (probably go with red to match the rest of the interior lighting.










That's pretty much as far as we got. We started on the frames for the tweeter pods, but ran out of time.

*- April 12th -*

We finished up the frames and got the tweeters mounted. With the base being round, I can position the tweeters almost perfectly on-axis with my ears. That should help with imaging and response a lot (or so I hear....har har har). Here are some pics:



















I was pretty excited at this point. I could see things coming together and I liked what I was seeing.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*- April 14th -*

I got started by doing something a little out of character for myself - I actually disassembled almost everything in the rear. I usually only take pieces off as needed - never really works out, but that's how I usually do it.

Pieces / seats removed:










View from the rear - wide open:










At this point, I wanted to go all out and get music in my car again. I called in reinforcements from my man James (jpf150 here on the forums).

While waiting on James to arrive, I took some other pictures.

The tweeter pods (turrets as I like to call them - they fire high frequency beams at my face).




























I also got the battery isolator monitor module installed. This is a picture of the installed LED.










And this picture was taken around 10:30PM - James thought it was funny that I was wearing gloves while handling my Mosconi's. It was hot, my hands were sweaty, and the finish on the Mosconi's is already showing fingerprints etc. from skin oils.










We ended up stopping around 2AM. We got everything put back together and music playing, but I couldn't run an autotune / AutoEQ as I discovered that my Aux-in jack in the console was not working properly. I tried to fix it on the night of the 15th, but nothing I did would get it to work right. So....now there is an aux line running right beside my USB port (as pictured earlier in the thread.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

That is about all I have done for now. I have a preliminary tune on it, and it sounds pretty good. It has decent depth, but I want deeper. Maybe I'll get some tips from Clay at the GTG next weekend. I don't believe that I'll be able to do anything else before the GTG, but it's not too embarrassing as it sits for now. The plan is to get the tweeter pods glassed and probably carbon vinyl wrapped (as well as carpet the amp rack cover and install LED's), but that probably will not take place until a few weeks after the GTG and I have had some quality time with my family.


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## claydo (Oct 1, 2012)

Way to go forrest, you've been mighty busy ain't ya! Looking forward to hearing yer werk!


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

Darkrider said:


> *April 4, 2015*
> 
> Today I was feeling ambitious. I figured I would go crazy and try to get the head unit wired up/figured out. The Metra harness only has the basic pins for basic connections. This will not do for me. My replacement unit has aux-in and USB and my car has matching ports in the console. They WILL be connected and operating as if the Pioneer was the stock head unit.
> 
> ...


I recently installed a Pioneer NEX nav in a '15 Sportage. I had planned to find the pins by testing for continuity and just cut up some 1/8" aux in and USB cables and go from there. Yeah, that didn't work. Once I opened up the piece the jacks are built into I saw why I couldn't get continuity. There is some sort of circuit board that everything is mounted to. 

I ended up pulling the circuit board and slightly modding the included Pioneer Aux in extension cable as well as shaving down the USB cable before mounting them into the stock housing to appear as such. A lot more work than planned but only took around 45 min and worked great!

Jay


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> I recently installed a Pioneer NEX nav in a '15 Sportage. I had planned to find the pins by testing for continuity and just cut up some 1/8" aux in and USB cables and go from there. Yeah, that didn't work. Once I opened up the piece the jacks are built into I saw why I couldn't get continuity. There is some sort of circuit board that everything is mounted to.
> 
> I ended up pulling the circuit board and slightly modding the included Pioneer Aux in extension cable as well as shaving down the USB cable before mounting them into the stock housing to appear as such. A lot more work than planned but only took around 45 min and worked great!
> 
> Jay


Thanks for that heads up. I actually got sound through the Aux-in, but it sounded like it a low signal issue (very low volume, static). I figured there must be some signal booster or something in there. I didn't try a continuity test (feel kinda dumb for not doing that).

My wife was saying to me "Why don't you just take out the console and see what the problem is?" I told her that I could spend an hour taking it out only to find that there is nothing I could do to utilize the stock ports, and then I would spend another hour putting everything back in. So all-in-all, I could be wasting 2 and a half hours total in futility.

Thanks for letting me know that it was a good decision.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

I'll note this is one of the nicer 2-ways I've heard. Thanks and great to meet you at the GTG. Saw this on another Kia build so sharing.. May be a common theme in Kia's to do the little round speaker grills, which is cool.

Before









After









In this build

... nice! So assuming you've got stock grill covers like this one, I'd use it as the base so she snaps right in and break out the fabrication toolbox.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

here, here. nice simple 2-way setup that was fun to listen to.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Babs said:


> I'll note this is one of the nicer 2-ways I've heard. Thanks and great to meet you at the GTG. Saw this on another Kia build so sharing.. May be a common theme in Kia's to do the little round speaker grills, which is cool.
> 
> In this build
> 
> ... nice! So assuming you've got stock grill covers like this one, I'd use it as the base so she snaps right in and break out the fabrication toolbox.





ErinH said:


> here, here. nice simple 2-way setup that was fun to listen to.


Well, because of Babs' fabrication encouragement and your amazing....well, everything, Erin......I think I want to do what all the cool kids are doing and do a 3-way. I have a couple of drivers in mind that I'll post up shortly.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Oh it's on!
You can do it Forest


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

I'm glad you're on that page. I'm ordering more glass and materials soon 

Babs-Wanna come down and have a fiberglass party? lol


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

Forrest-Guessing you've got to find that spot for the 360 after all!


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

I'm thinking I want to do a 3-way now. After listening to Erin's car, I just can't get over the idea that I want to move the mid-range responsibility to a dedicated midrange driver.

I'm really hoping to get some educated feedback on what I'm looking at doing. From looking over the response graphs of the ML1600 and ML280, I think I would do well with a midrange playing from around 5/800hz to 6khz.

Here are the response graphs for the ML1600 and ML200:

*ML1600:*


*ML280:*


Here are the mids that I'm looking at currently:

*Hi-Vi DMB-A 2" Fabric Dome Midrange*

*Dayton Audio RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange*

*FaitalPRO 4FE35*

*SEAS Prestige MCA12RC (H1304) 4.5"*

*SB Acoustics SB12NRXF25-4, 4"*

*SB Acoustics SB12MNRX25-04, 4"*

And of course, the perennial favorite,
*Scanspeak Discovery 10F/4424G, 4"*

From the graphs, they all appear to fit what I'm looking for (on axis). Since I am not trying to squeeze them into any particular space, size isn't really that much of an issue. I would be building pods on the dash to house both the midrange and the ML280's.

Am I looking at the wrong thing? I only know enough about what I'm doing to be dangerous


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

I'd probably cross lower than 6k, but that's just my opinion from all that I have read. Probably just have to play around with the crossover points once you decide on a driver.


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

Did you listen to Steve's wife's car? They have the 10f in there. I think all those drivers are excellent choices. And since you're crossing a little higher than most people do, I think a dome midrange could really shine with your current speakers.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Based on reputation alone, I'm gonna vote 10F right off the bat. Now that said, if you're going 3-way.. How about processing? The 5700 won't have the horsepower in the extra channels to process a 3-way + sub active. If I missed it, apologies.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

jpf150 said:


> I'm glad you're on that page. I'm ordering more glass and materials soon
> 
> Babs-Wanna come down and have a fiberglass party? lol


LOL! Love to if I could.. Actually glassing is my weak spot.. Haven't done any yet myself. That's one of the last skills I need to master. My little project was simply spandex fleece, CA glue over MDF baffle held by dowels hot-glued down, then rage gold and much sanding. I do think it's high time I got some glassing skills under my belt. But given I've been having bad thoughts of trying to copy my sub box over to the right side, I'm looking to get some glassing materials together. I'll have to do some styrofoam sculpting though to attempt to copy the contours of the Audio Integrations box. It's not the usual fleece, fill, then carpet job. Complex curves.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Darkrider said:


> Well, because of Babs' fabrication encouragement and your amazing....well, everything, Erin......I think I want to do what all the cool kids are doing and do a 3-way. I have a couple of drivers in mind that I'll post up shortly.


Are you thinking mids in pillars, with tweets where they are? 

I suggest first with your current tune, doing a bunch of placement fun with the tweets sitting on towels or something to see where they measure best (objective) and where they sound best (subjective). As Erin's car shows, locations can definitely surprise you.


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## few35t (Dec 10, 2014)

I'll bite.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Babs said:


> Based on reputation alone, I'm gonna vote 10F right off the bat. Now that said, if you're going 3-way.. How about processing? The 5700 won't have the horsepower in the extra channels to process a 3-way + sub active. If I missed it, apologies.


I was thinking of trying a passive and running the mid and tweeter together off of a single channel. If I place them both in the same pod, then time alignment shouldn't be an issue.....right?

I don't really want to have to add a processor and amp to equation if I don't absolutely have-to. If I need to do that.....well, it will just open up a huge can of worms. Processor placement could be up-front (inside console), but where would I put a third amp?!?!?


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

You would need tweets and mids like perfectly phase-aligned. 

I was thinking of your pillars. You can get some mids in there larger than 10F's. Even a 5 incher! The civic window spot in the 8th civic is smaller and Erin got 5" satori's in there. So. Hmmm. Hertz sell a 5"?

Heck. Put your door mids up there in the pillars passive, then a big whopper mid-bass in the doors. Ooooohhh. That'd be something. 


Sent from iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

I think you'd be fine as long as sensitivity is about the same through each band, or the if the eq of the hu is enough to tame some highs. If I was going that route though I'd be looking for a 4" comp set though that has its own crossover already. Then a again id wanna keep the tweets you have now though...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JayinMI (Oct 18, 2008)

If you can swing it, see if you can get some seat time in Steve's (Capt. Obvious) Mazda. He's running dome mids in that and the midrange in that was probably my favorite (of the cars I heard) at Finals last year.

I suppose it could be more related to the tune, but I really liked the way it sounded.

Jay


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

JayinMI said:


> If you can swing it, see if you can get some seat time in Steve's (Capt. Obvious) Mazda. He's running dome mids in that and the midrange in that was probably my favorite (of the cars I heard) at Finals last year.
> 
> I suppose it could be more related to the tune, but I really liked the way it sounded.
> 
> Jay


Well, of the drivers I listed, the Dayton Audio RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange was the one that had me the most interested. I like dome mids as well. I think they might be a great start since they at least need a 4" cutout, so if they didn't work out, I could try most of the other drivers without having to modify the pods to much.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

I got an insane deal on a pair of like new JL Audio 13w6v2's on Craigslist, so I jumped on em. I then went to my favorite local audio store (Adrenaline Autosound in Clayton, NC) and had them build me a box to house the monsters. I gave them dimensions over the phone, and they delivered. My dimensions were a little on the large side (Protip: Always allow yourself around 8-10 inches in width to be able to get the box into the car - I didn't do that.....). Long-story short is I ended up having to disassemble a bit of the rear of my car to get the box into it's final resting place. I say final becuase it will be extremely hard to get this thing out. Guess my sexy amp rack will not be seen for some time.

*Here she is:
*

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Mastermordeth/media/2015%20Kia%20Forte5%20SX%20Build%20Log/20150517_150812.jpg.html][/URL]

*And the JL Audio emblem detail:
*

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Mastermordeth/media/2015%20Kia%20Forte5%20SX%20Build%20Log/20150517_150825.jpg.html][/URL]


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Oh wow, now that's TIGHT lol.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

I've been looking at more and more drivers to use as a mid range. I have found like 4 that I'm really interested in.

Morel MDM55 2" Textile Dome Midrange - 8 ohm
Satori MW13P-4 5" Egyptian Papyrus Cone Woofer - 4 ohm
Hertz ML700.3 - 3.45" - 4 ohm
Focal Utopia 3w2 - 3" - 4 ohm

The response graphs all look pretty similar. I have only heard the Satori's in person, and while I liked the way they sounded, I'm not 100% sure I want a 5" on my dash. The Hertz should fit pretty well with the MLK set I'm running. I like the Morel and the Focal because they are small and should make for some aesthetically pleasing dash pods beside the ML280's. I think I like the Morels the best due to their size.

Am I going about this the wrong way? I'm obviously after higher SQ's, so could it possible to "have my cake and eat it too" with the Morels?

Again, I'm looking to have these drivers play from 500Hz to 6kHz.

Thanks for your input!!


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## lashlee (Aug 16, 2007)

I've got a set of the ML700's in the pillars of my Accord playing from 250Hz up to 5k. I don't think you'll regret trying them out.


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

I doubt the morels will play as loud and clean at 500 than the others. My guess is the Hertz and Focals would be best for this application.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Well you could also look into the CDT ES-02 midtweets. I have them in pods 450hz-20k and they get pretty loud and sound good doing it to. Many don't agree with my settings but it does work. I have not tried to run them as a Solo midrange but they will work in that manner too. CDT to me is a possible option if yiu your willing to look into them.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Black Rain said:


> Well you could also look into the CDT ES-02 midtweets. I have them in pods 450hz-20k and they get pretty loud and sound good doing it to. Many don't agree with my settings but it does work. I have not tried to run them as a Solo midrange but they will work in that manner too. CDT to me is a possible option if yiu your willing to look into them.


I'm definitely looking at those now. They look like they could fit the bill very well. I wish I could find more response data for their upper-end. The response graph data on the CDT website cuts it off at like 1.5K :furious:

From my reading, people seem to like them playing low or high, but not as a full-range. That really isn't an issue for me since I would be playing them from 500-6k. That might be a very nice fit, indeed. I like the size and look of them as well. They are definitely on my short-list now. Thanks for the heads-up! :thumbsup:


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## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

Audible Physics. NZ3albe? This one is on my short list to try.


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

Darkrider said:


> I'm definitely looking at those now. They look like they could fit the bill very well. I wish I could find more response data for their upper-end. The response graph data on the CDT website cuts it off at like 1.5K :furious:
> 
> From my reading, people seem to like them playing low or high, but not as a full-range. That really isn't an issue for me since I would be playing them from 500-6k. That might be a very nice fit, indeed. I like the size and look of them as well. They are definitely on my short-list now. Thanks for the heads-up! :thumbsup:


Unfortunately, there isn't much info on most of their stuff but that would not negate their performance.

Well hopefully you find the right speaker that performs the way you want it to.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

truckguy said:


> Audible Physics. NZ3albe? This one is on my short list to try.


Those look very nice as well. Any clue on where I can get them? The internets have failed me there....


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## truckguy (Sep 2, 2013)

Darkrider said:


> Those look very nice as well. Any clue on where I can get them? The internets have failed me there....


Page 24 post 578. I had to do some digging. I read in another thread somewhere how people seem to get an itch to switch gear about every 6-7 months. That's about where I am so thought I better stick with what I have a little longer. So many choices and just not enough money! Wish I could try it all. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ible-physics-team-product-information-24.html


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## jpf150 (May 22, 2013)

Hurry up and buy something already 

For real though, all of your speaker choices look great Forrest. I'd say it comes down to how you want the pillars to look. If you're not set on having huge midranges on the dash then I wouldn't do it.


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## ErinH (Feb 14, 2007)

x2.

Personally, I've been considering pulling my pillar setup and going for something more stealth overall. Not that I feel like my speakers are in the way... there's just something to be said for a setup whose speakers you can't see (maybe it's just me). Of course, there are pros/cons of any method you choose. I think, though, that determining the "don't want" is a lot easier than the "must have". If you don't mind seeing the speakers and/or having a large midrange type setup then that route certainly has it's benefits.


As for speaker options, I'm going to sound like a broken record but I'd recommend adding this to your list of suitors:
http://medleysmusings.com/?s=10f

If you want more sensitivity, there's the 4 ohm version with a larger magnet for about $30/driver more.
http://medleysmusings.com/scan-speak-10f4424g00-discovery-4-midrange-4-ohm-version/


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

ErinH said:


> Personally, I've been considering pulling my pillar setup and going for something more stealth overall. Not that I feel like my speakers are in the way... there's just something to be said for a setup whose speakers you can't see (maybe it's just me). Of course, there are pros/cons of any method you choose. I think, though, that determining the "don't want" is a lot easier than the "must have". If you don't mind seeing the speakers and/or having a large midrange type setup then that route certainly has it's benefits.


The thing is, compromising visually to have 5" satori's doing their awesomeness.. I can imagine driving the same car, it could wear on you seeing them pointing at you everyday. No offense.. You did an absolute awesome job getting them in there nicely. I catch myself sometimes distracted by just the tweets even. I think I coulda done a better job.. Like Forrest's Kia, the pillars lend themselves for great spots for 3-way builds, but doing it asthetically is quite the challenge.




ErinH said:


> I'm going to sound like a broken record but I'd recommend adding this to your list of suitors:
> http://medleysmusings.com/?s=10f
> 
> If you want more sensitivity, there's the 4 ohm version with a larger magnet for about $30/driver more.
> http://medleysmusings.com/scan-speak-10f4424g00-discovery-4-midrange-4-ohm-version/


+3.. I just scored a set of 4ohm's. Gauntlet laid for doing tasteful but killer sounding pillars. 

Get on it Forrest!  Waiting to see what's in store. Though I'll also agree as said before.. Great sounding nice simple 2-way. I'd just finish in the tweet install nice and slick and roll with it, but I've succumb to 3-way fever myself so I see where you're coming from.


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Can't remember where I found this.. I have no idea who's car. I saved it because I really liked the job. Trick with fabrication of something so visible as A-pillars, the challenge is you gotta be an artist as much as a fabricator to do something really pleasing, and what might thrill some, not so much others so there's simply no winning. 









Thing that impresses me the most with this job.. The doggone stitching. Wow!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

That's bad ass


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

So, I got some updates.

I decided to basically clone my Camaro. Maybe clone, maybe 1-up it. Only time will tell where this build goes.

I started off by picking up a pair of Focal KRX2's to replace my Hertz Mille MLK2TW set. On my way to pick up the box of Focals from my office (30 minute trip), I decided to check on my crossover points. Turns out I had my ML280's crossed at [email protected] I was like "WTF?!?!?!" They shouldn't be crossed that high. I dropped it down to [email protected] and was instantly regretting buying the Focals. Oh well, too late for back-pedaling at this point. I had already convinced my wife that the Focals would do what I wanted.

*So, here are some pics 
*
Box arrived packed quite well (Thanks Gomer Pilot). Focal box in typical super-thin-paper-box-that-looks-like-crap (my other set I bought new from dealer had box in same shape....).

































*Got them home and started working out where/how I was going to mount the TN53K's. Focal provides some nice cups with the kit, so I decided I would give them a try. Initially, I thought about mounting them where I had the ML280's, but then I remembered that I didn't like the ML280's being so prominent in my frame of view while driving. 
*









*Decided to try a different location for a while.
*









*Here are some comparison pics of the ML1600's v/s the 6KRX2's.
*


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

*Up next, more cloning.
*









*I'll start working these into the car this weekend. I also picked up a Victory Sonics 30A power supply. UPS may have almost caused a catastrophic failure of the power supply, but luckily as I was admiring the unit (prior to plugging it in), I noticed a rattling noise coming from the PSU. There was a screw in the side (I think it was probably holding an internal heat sink against the frame) that was very, very loose. I tightened it down, and the rattling stopped. so, I plugged it in and attached a Fluke voltmeter to it and it produced a nice 13.8V. Took it home and started testing my new headunits.

More to come soon.*


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## whodat90 (Nov 29, 2010)

Darkrider said:


> Whew - 2 rough days working on this car and not much progress.
> 
> *March 29, 2015*
> Had a busy Saturday, so figured I would take it easy and probably just work on getting the engine bay done. I decided to start with the Big three upgrade. Then I spent over an hour looking for my multimeter. So yeah, not a good start.
> ...


You should move that ground strap on the battery. Kia has a TSB that specifically addresses car audio connected that way, and get funky about warranties if they find it. That black dealie on the negative terminal is their load sensor for the alternator/computers and it's how they determine how much current the battery is getting/giving. By bypassing it you confuse the computer.

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92039/kia-no-more-grounds-please


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Darkrider said:


> So, I got some updates.












 Hope that rocks for you. 
Don'tcha wish all comps or car-tweeters came with such mounting goodies. I feel a little ill thinking how much filler and sanding those little bullet cups woulda saved a brutha in my civic.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

whodat90 said:


> You should move that ground strap on the battery. Kia has a TSB that specifically addresses car audio connected that way, and get funky about warranties if they find it. That black dealie on the negative terminal is their load sensor for the alternator/computers and it's how they determine how much current the battery is getting/giving. By bypassing it you confuse the computer.
> 
> Kia: No more grounds, please - Automotive Service Professional


Thanks for the heads up. The guys at the dealership warned me when I was buying the car about the "electrical" part of the warranty.

I read the bulletin, but from their description and pictures, it looks like they are warning to not add additional grounds coming off the battery to equipment/accessories or using the battery (-) as a ground. I guess I don't really need the extra grounds as I am running a second battery and the amps are powered via that battery and ground system.


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## whodat90 (Nov 29, 2010)

You're good as long as all your additional grounds are connected where the factory cable is, on the load side of the sensor. In the pic you showed you have one connected correctly, but your second battery/body ground is connected directly to the terminal. That's the one they'd have an issue with. Just move that end from the battery terminal over to where your other cable is connected on the load sensor.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

whodat90 said:


> You're good as long as all your additional grounds are connected where the factory cable is, on the load side of the sensor. In the pic you showed you have one connected correctly, but your second battery/body ground is connected directly to the terminal. That's the one they'd have an issue with. Just move that end from the battery terminal over to where your other cable is connected on the load sensor.


Thanks for the tip. I'll fix it in the AM.


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## RMAT (Feb 13, 2007)

Hey Darkrider. I have a Forte5 also. Have you ran into any ground noise issues with your install. My installers are fighting a terrible noise floor and ground noise like when turning on the headlights, revving the engine and applying the brakes. The can't track it down. Maybe the second battery is the trick. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

RMAT said:


> Hey Darkrider. I have a Forte5 also. Have you ran into any ground noise issues with your install. My installers are fighting a terrible noise floor and ground noise like when turning on the headlights, revving the engine and applying the brakes. The can't track it down. Maybe the second battery is the trick. Any help would be appreciated.


Question answered in your thread.

No noise here


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Ok - so in the queue, I have a few things that I'm going to have to really bust my butt to have ready by the Spring GTG.

Focals are out.

Going in are:

Mosconi 6to8v8
Rockford Fosgate Power 50.2 (probably)
Satori MW16P-4 6.5" for midbass duty
Seas Prestige MCA12RC-H1304 4.5" for midrange
A/D/S/ 206-0101 for tweeters

I'm going to keep the P99RS I believe. I may run the P99RS sub outputs and a fullrange set of outputs into the 6to8v8 to maintain the ability to crank the subs into silly territory, or I may get the DSP-RCD to achieve the same goal of independent sub volume control. Only issue I foresee with that is finding somewhere accessible to mount the RCD.


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow, 1.5 years between posts!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Wow, 1.5 years between posts!



I know right! 

Looking forward to it Forest!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

BP1Fanatic said:


> Wow, 1.5 years between posts!


It's my build thread, and......uh.....











LOL! Love that pic.

This will be the third front-setup I have tried in this little car. I hastily placed the Satori's into the doors and placed the A/D/S/ tweeters on the dash (on top of shop towels no less) prior to my drive to Charlotte this past weekend for a Coaching seminar. I ran a quick Auto T/A and AutoEQ from the P99RS on it.

Wasn't bad....*after* adjusting levels and turning off AutoEQ (and all EQ for that matter). As good as it sounds (to me at least) right now, I'm getting super excited for when I have the chance to do some real tuning on it. So far, the A/D/S tweeters are just as awesome as I remember them from waaaay back when....


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Lol!


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## Babs (Jul 6, 2007)

Darkrider said:


> This will be the third front-setup I have tried in this little car. I hastily placed the Satori's into the doors and placed the A/D/S/ tweeters on the dash (on top of shop towels no less) prior to my drive to Charlotte this past weekend for a Coaching seminar. I ran a quick Auto T/A and AutoEQ from the P99RS on it.
> 
> Wasn't bad....*after* adjusting levels and turning off AutoEQ (and all EQ for that matter). As good as it sounds (to me at least) right now, I'm getting super excited for when I have the chance to do some real tuning on it. So far, the A/D/S tweeters are just as awesome as I remember them from waaaay back when....


Fun!! If you feel froggy, since I've gotten pretty fluent on navigating the 99RS and have always had an itch to tune one out, which I've not done yet since I'm rockin' the Helix.. At the meet if ya wanna mess around, we can throw on a mic and do some left/right EQ balancing and throw it up the flag pole and see who salutes. Might be fun for ****zandgigglez.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Babs said:


> Fun!! If you feel froggy, since I've gotten pretty fluent on navigating the 99RS and have always had an itch to tune one out, which I've not done yet since I'm rockin' the Helix.. At the meet if ya wanna mess around, we can throw on a mic and do some left/right EQ balancing and throw it up the flag pole and see who salutes. Might be fun for ****zandgigglez.


I'll have the 6to8v8 and a tune on it - the P99 will just be eye candy. I do plan on keeping a "No EQ" preset on the 6to8v8 though.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Minor update - I had an awful day Saturday with trying to get the RF Power 50.2 under the front passenger seat. It's just too darn big. So today I visited my local favorite audio shop and picked up a petite JL Audio XD400/4v2 - it should fit under there nicely and give me plenty of power for either the A/D/S/ tweeters or the Seas Mids.

On a side note, I may be employing previously stated audio shop to fabricate my pillars. With the setbacks I've already encountered, I'm running short on time and long on ambition. Hooray for overpaid taxes.....


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

I vote for you doing the pillars and using the tax $ on more toys!


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

BP1Fanatic said:


> I vote for you doing the pillars and using the tax $ on more toys!


Lol! I already have too many toys (or so the wife says).

After a talk with her last night, I may be trading the little Kia in for something I've been missing for several years now.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Time to go truck style huh ?


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

Coppertone said:


> Time to go truck style huh ?


You reading minds now? Lol!

Yeah, I've been missing having a truck ever since I traded in my last one 3 years ago. I really hate having to borrow one when I need one. I'll probably miss the fuel economy and fun of my little Kia though (not to mention the sound of the system and turbo).


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Well the good news is that you CAN turbo a truck lol, and pretend the mileage is still good. The sad part is that I've wned a truck for seven years and have yet to use it for what a truck is for.


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

I love my Jeep but miss my Ram when I need to haul something, and it's not the freight train for towing the Ram was. It pulls my 17' Tracker fine but not sure I'd want to pull much more weight with it even though it's less than half of the vehicle tow rating. Now, if you're OK with driving a Fiat the new Ram with the 8 speed trans gets great mileage. Like low to mid 20's great iirc. My friend is more than willing to let me borrow his truck especially knowing it will be returned with a full tank of gas whether it needs one gallon or 25 gallons. Still feel like I'm asking him if I can sleep with his wife when borrowing, but he trusts me. Getting a trailer within the next month. Hate not being self-sufficient.


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## Darkrider (May 11, 2012)

I guess this is the final update on this build thread - the Kia is gone. Took a little over 6 hours to strip all of the car audio goodies out and replace panels (pillars, sill panels, radio trim, etc.) but I got it done. Drove the little car around a couple of days with the stock system and was surprised at how well it naturally staged.

So anyway, traded it in on my next victim. I think my drivers door woofer is already blown, so no time like the present to get to work......


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## Niebur3 (Jul 11, 2008)

Nice looking ride!!!!


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Time to jump on that truck !!


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## BP1Fanatic (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice upgrade!


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