# 2011 Charger R/T SQ build, Zapco, Helix, Stereo Integrity IB



## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

New member here and starting an audio build in my Charger. The factory “premium” alpine system is just horrible, I messed around with basic audio systems years ago in my first car, mainly all basic kicker stuff while I learned the ropes. Now I’m dipping my toe into somewhat higher grade components and installations. My plan is a 3 way front component system with custom A-pillars, a glove box mounted 10”, infinite baffle 15” and a trunk amp rack under a false floor. I’m trying to keep as much trunk space as I can. This will be a nice learning experience on tuning basics with a DSP. The end goal is a great quality SQ build for a daily driver, and if all goes well I would love to stop in at a SQ event and have it judged

Parts list, all a work in progress as I continue research and plan

Tweeters- Scanspeak D3004/602000
Mid-range- Scanspeak 11m
Mid bass in the door- Anarchy 704 
Front sub- Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" 
Rear sub- Custom Stereo Integrity 15” 

Rear speakers- CDT Unity 8.0 for differential rear fill 

Amps- 
2x Zapco 150.4LX for all the speakers
Zapco 400.2 AP for the front and rear subwoofer


Helix Pro MK2 DSP with a director 
Topping D10s with coaxial from the center console


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## Mooster1223 (Aug 3, 2020)

Please take some good disassembly pics. I'm doing a '16 Charger later this summer. I have all my gear but I need to finish two other installs first.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Mooster1223 said:


> Please take some good disassembly pics. I'm doing a '16 Charger later this summer. I have all my gear but I need to finish two other installs first.


Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either










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## Turb0Yoda (Jan 4, 2019)

May I interest you in an Adire Audio Brahma as an option?





Adire Audio Brahma | 1000w XBL2 Car Audio Subwoofer







www.adireaudio.com


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

chrisp2493 said:


> Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Damn that 6x9 baffle is part of whole plastic cover... Look like you can fit some MLV on that panel... 

I’m planning on picking up a 2018 shaker skat pack in a few days..


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

aztec45 said:


> Damn that 6x9 baffle is part of whole plastic cover... Look like you can fit some MLV on that panel...
> 
> I’m planning on picking up a 2018 shaker skat pack in a few days..
> 
> ...


Yep it’s all molded in. I ended up cutting off the speaker bracket and making new ones from PVC. It wasn’t very pretty, maybe one day I’ll redo them










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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

chrisp2493 said:


> Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either
> 
> 
> 
> ...


FWIW - There are clips that release the glass so that you can remove it completely. It's one of those hard to explain things that's confusing till you do it one time and then it's obvious. If you Google removing/replacing the glass you should be able to find yours... Completely removing the plastic inner door panel makes sound deadening the doors way easier and you can then treat both sides of the plastic as well. 

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

daloudin said:


> FWIW - There are clips that release the glass so that you can remove it completely. It's one of those hard to explain things that's confusing till you do it one time and then it's obvious. If you Google removing/replacing the glass you should be able to find yours... Completely removing the plastic inner door panel makes sound deadening the doors way easier and you can then treat both sides of the plastic as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though 










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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

chrisp2493 said:


> Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Understood - I've done it both ways and for big midbass from these plastic inner panels it takes a bunch of MLV or something similar to keep panel resonance down. But I'm talking 150-300+ Watts RMS Class A/B in to a good 6x9 or 8" speaker in the stock location playing down to 60-80Hz... there's a bunch of FCA/DCA cars that have these same panels and hardware.


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## llebcire (Nov 17, 2016)

chrisp2493 said:


> Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry mate - that looks like a royal PITA.

Wow.

-Eric 


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

llebcire said:


> Sorry mate - that looks like a royal PITA.
> 
> Wow.
> 
> ...





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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the factory amp tapped, first time using the Posi-Taps and I was really happy with them, so much better then how I used to do them. I used a 9 wire cable to keep it nice and neat for the front speaker taps. I also got the new speaker wire ran to the front doors. It was actually fairly easy getting them through the connector at the door frame, but the rubber boot was very difficult to fish through. It’s very tight so I had to pull the whole rubber wrap off the plastic channel, and actually had to cut a slit in the back of the boot to help guide it around the 90° turn at the door. 

























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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

With the older uConnect in my 2011, the usb input doesn’t work with Spotify, it just auto skips every song. Updates didn’t work and I can’t find a solution online. After seeing the S/PDIF input on my processor, I spent awhile researching using that as the audio input from my iPhone. I think I should be able to use the iPhone camera adapter usb plug, a Topping D10 and a Toslink cable for input. Hopefully this will provide a much cleaner input then going through the factory system. I’m still going to use the factory center channel for Bluetooth calling. I think in theory, I can run audio from my phone through the Topping D10, and also still stay connected to the Bluetooth for hands free calling. I’ll see how well it works out


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I am curious which input would be better, optical or coaxial. I had assumed the optical would be better, but I came across one post in a thread saying the coaxial would be the best option so I’m not really sure










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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

Coaxial supports higher rates than fiber but the Twk 88 doesn't go higher than 48kHz anyway so there's really no difference in this case.

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

daloudin said:


> Coaxial supports higher rates than fiber but the Twk 88 doesn't go higher than 48kHz anyway so there's really no difference in this case.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I’m a newb on understanding a lot of the digital jargon but from the manual it seems like both ports at least go up to 96khtz?










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## daloudin (Nov 2, 2020)

That's correct but the internal processing is at 48kHz so it doesn't matter what the input is above 48kHz and for reference, the higher rates I was referring to are the ones above 96kHz ... IIRC Toslink won't go over 96kHz in most applications whereas coaxial goes up to 384kHz and beyond.


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## preston (Dec 10, 2007)

Maybe I'm doing something wrong buy I prefer coaxial cables because the connection is so much more secure. I feel like the optical cable kind of just slides in and doesn't have much to retain it. I also feel that the coax cable is more robust than the glass fiber if you start bending, crimping it in something. And, if you ever do move to different equipment as stated it will support higher resolution.

Also, I used to disparage dash speakers as well but I experimented in a couple of installs including my 2006 300, and they are now my first choice for location. You might give them a shot before building some bulbous high effort pod on your a-pillar. Or at least compare them since the dash locations already exist.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Edit


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Changed up a few things on the setup and got the majority of the parts ordered. Plus I’ve been getting the sound deadening done. I got the Rockford Fosgate prime R2 500x4 and the 1200x1 amp, and I sent back the Prime R2 300x4 to exchange it for the Punch 400x4 AB class amp instead of the D class Prime. I’m using that for the mids and highs, I don’t think it’s going to make much difference but it should be a nice amp. I move the Punch 8” speakers from the doors to the rear deck, I’m going to use them for differential rear fill with a band pass xover. I read about the Exodus Anarchy 7” mid bass speakers and they seemed to be better suited as a mid bass then the SPL style Punch speakers. I’ll eliminate the rear passenger door 3.5” speakers










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## tfunk182 (Jun 3, 2019)

How are you hooking up the power and ground wires for the TWK88?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

tfunk182 said:


> How are you hooking up the power and ground wires for the TWK88?


I will probably just run some small wire with a fuse off the distribution block. I don’t think it needs anything special to my knowledge 


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Goodbye Kicker, hello SQL.


















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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the anarchy 704’s today and they are just small enough to fit through the grill of the door panel so I’m going to flush mount them. I’m not sure if I want to smooth them with filler/epoxy and paint them, or wrap them with fabric. I am looking for a solution to the small gap around the panel cut out, not sure if I should use some kind of rubber channel trim bead or something else


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

This should match nicely with the Toxic Orange color of the car. I’ll use the same fabric around the sub and amp rack










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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I redid the mounting brackets and was able to do a much better job then the first time around. I’m so much happier with these then the Rockford punches that’s for sure.































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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

So close, never even realized how big the glove box is. Idk what to do with this, I think shaving the glovebox will look really bad, but with the curve of the door panel I can only set the speaker mount so far back. Guess I’ll have to get the door back open and shave the mount down as far as I can. Maybe also flush mount the speaker to the panel instead of surface mounted










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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

I would of flush mount the drive with a speaker grill regardless.. 


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I was planning on using the L7Ci to get signal from the factory amp to the new amps, before I learned about using the Toping for digital input. Now that I’m going fully digital, the only reason I was keeping the L7Ci in the chain was to keep Bluetooth hands free calling which I like to use. After thinking about it, I realized I could just leave the factory center channel installed and run that off deck power for phone calls. So I might sell the L7Ci and put that towards the 2nd DSP. I’ve already tested it, my phone will stay connected to Bluetooth even when playing music through the topping, and automatically switch over when a call goes in or out which is nice. 

I was originally planning on getting away from the dash corner speakers and going to dual A piller pods, but after the one comment above suggesting trying them out in the factory spot, and seeing a lot of SQ cars running dash speakers, I’m going to give them an honest shot with some tuning. I can see some advantages of leaving them there. I’m really excited to start testing all the positions. Finding Peter Steinbachers YouTube channel PSSound has been a big inspiration for me 

Progress is being made, I’m starting to get all the wires temporarily hooked up for testing. Once the design, layout and devices are nailed down, I’ll start wiring them in permanently. I plan on having all the wiring on quick connects so the amp rack installs and removes nice and easily


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## HereticHulk (Nov 8, 2009)

Turb0Yoda said:


> May I interest you in an Adire Audio Brahma as an option?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You have one for sale?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the system temped in and started placement testing. The Anarchy 704’s are absolutely insane with amplifier power, I had them crossed down to 35hz without breaking a sweat. Not quite a subwoofer but they put out some serious clean bass. Also the differential rear fill sounded very nice, I think I will keep that and order another JL TwK and hook it up inline. 
Also, I decided I’m going for broke and fiberglassing in a 4.5” Scanspeak driver for the midrange on the dash. I haven’t decided between an 11M or a 12M, leaning towards the 11M because it seems very similar and $100 cheaper for the set. I’ll have the Morels for sale if anyone is interested. 










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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Getting some work done on the pillers and dash. The 11m’s show up tommorow and I can’t wait to give them a try 































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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Without going to much into it. I just want to recommend doing every thing you can to reduce diffraction. Diffraction being the immediate reflections off the baffle, a-pillar,ECT. Here's a gif to explain it better.



http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/images/diffdem.gif



Essentially each of those diffractions cause reflections milliseconds down the line and each of those reflections come off as different sound sources to your ear. Which we don't want. 



Diffraction from baffle edges



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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Getting more accomplished. I got the new Scanspeak 11m’s mocked up and everything cut to fit the new rings in. After some basic testing and tuning to see how everything sounds, I am absolutely thrilled. After a couple fixes to the time alignment I had off, everything started falling into place and sounding as good as I had hoped it would sound. I also decided to go from the JL TwK to a Helix MK2 Pro which I found from a member here, waiting for it to come in now. That takes care of the 10 channels I need for tuning. Getting super excited for this to get wrapped up!






































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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Couldn’t wait to try them out. I gotta find a good fabric to use for all 3 pieces, I’m thinking something black to match the interior but needs to be stretchy enough to mold over the tweeters


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the old wheels turning again, and I’m improving my subwoofer setup for this build. After some more reading into truck IB setups and a call to Stereo Integrity, I am exchanging my SQL12 for a SQL 15” D4 ohm sub and doing an IB build behind the rear seat. This build has really got out of hand on me haha! The D4 setup should be pulling about 800 watts give or take on 2ohm from the RF 1200.1 amp, and that leave me room to decide if the out put in enough for me. If is, then great, if not I would cut a new baffle and add in another 15” in the future. I gotta decide if I want to make a cut out behind my rear seat arm rest.









With this new layout, I’m changing out the amp for the front 3 way to a Helix M6 channel amp to match the Helix DSP I have coming in tommorow. That’s gonna give me some more power to my front mid-bass speakers, and some better S/N rating over the Rockford. 

Finished the filler work on the dash and pillers, wrapping them hasn’t been fun, but they should be complete and installed very soon


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking good!!!! I'm waiting for the announcement of you going to dual 15's in an IB configuration


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

mfenske said:


> Looking good!!!! I'm waiting for the announcement of you going to dual 15's in an IB configuration


That’s a possibility I am planning ahead for. I’ve never heard an IB setup before, I’m just going off research. If I decide to add another 15”, all I’ll have to do is cut a new baffle board. I don’t know what to expect from this but I’m honestly not going for extremely loud bass


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

chrisp2493 said:


> That’s a possibility I am planning ahead for. I’ve never heard an IB setup before, I’m just going off research. If I decide to add another 15”, all I’ll have to do is cut a new baffle board. I don’t know what to expect from this but I’m honestly not going for extremely loud bass


It's essentially going to sound like a sealed box that's large-so good. My favorite setup I ever had was a JBL GTO1514 in my Hyundai Sonata Turbo.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Well wrapping this dash piece was an absolute nightmare. The vents in the middle were an extreme headache wrapping down into them, then making everything pull tight and clean everywhere else. I still have some touch up work, and getting the threaded inserts put in for the speakers but so far, this turned out great!


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## Davidian (Sep 30, 2020)

chrisp2493 said:


> Couldn’t wait to try them out. I gotta find a good fabric to use for all 3 pieces, I’m thinking something black to match the interior but needs to be stretchy enough to mold over the tweeters


I’ve noticed this set up is super popular. Did you ever consider pointing the mid range at you as opposed to flat. I’m pretty sure I will go with this exact set up myself just curious if you tried other angles. Thanks


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I didn’t do any extensive testing. I was first planning on a dual piller build with a smaller midrange but decided on the dash speakers after a lot of research in SQ builds. I wanted to get the midrange out as far as possible, and so far it made the stage really deep which is pretty nice. Plus doing dual pods is a lot of work to make look right and to wrap. Getting a mid range speaker pointed on axis that close to the windshield would take a pretty big obstructive pod, and a pretty small mid range speaker. Is it the perfect setup? I can’t say for sure, but I am very happy with the sound so far


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

little fiberglass tip. If you use a fiberglass cloth as your final layer. Its FAR FAR easier to sand and get a smooth finish. You wont have all the "deep" ruts that the FG mat can leave.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

All wrapped up and installed! Man I sure hate wrapping fabric, what a pain in the butt. Now on to the trunk racks and sub. I’ll have to start measuring for the trunk baffle, and start a new layout for the amp rack. I got a nice Zapco 150.4LX headed my way for the mids and tweets, still waiting on the helix 6 channel amplifier to ship also. I’ll probably end up bridging 4 of the channels of the helix to run the mid bass, and the other 2 for the rear fill. I got the new helix MK2 DSP and director, so I need to get the director integrated into my console. This is finally starting to turn into something


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

Looks good!!! 


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Making a mounting plate for the director, I plan on securing it in place with magnets on the back side so the dash isn’t cut up and can go right back to factory at any time if needed. I don’t know what to wrap it with though..the black headliner fabric I used on the dash and pillers just doesn’t seem right there. I wonder if it’s possible to have someone match this piece with a 3D printer, or if i should match it on a piece of HDPE instead of wrapping it


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Finished up and held in place with magnets


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

chrisp2493 said:


> I redid the mounting brackets and was able to do a much better job then the first time around. I’m so much happier with these then the Rockford punches that’s for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Only issue with how you have these mounted is your suffocating that driver. I know with your application it is very limited but If I were you I would deff be looking for a better option to move the midbass to... maybe custom kicks... I have my anarchys in custom .30+ kicks sealed... gamechanger


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Mikebiz23 said:


> Only issue with how you have these mounted is your suffocating that driver. I know with your application it is very limited but If I were you I would deff be looking for a better option to move the midbass to... maybe custom kicks... I have my anarchys in custom .30+ kicks sealed... gamechanger
> View attachment 303316


I have been really thinking about doing kicks, I think I have the room. I might even consider vented kicks. For right now I’m concentrating on the trunk and sub build and getting that all finished. After that, I will consider doing kick panels. I’m not sure if the anarchy’s would be ok in a vented kick or not, I haven’t found many specs available. I saw the peerless SLS8 had a slightly higher QTS which might work better. Not sure yet


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## carlthess40 (Aug 21, 2018)

Great work. One thing so many forget or just don’t want to spend money on is your insurance. You have done a nice high end job, it would be crazy not to show all your receipts to your insurance company and pay the extra money to have the system covered, 
If your car was every ( fingers crossed and god willing that it never happens) you will not be allowed to remove anything that’s bolted down in the car. It will all be gone in a flash
So upgrade your insurance on your car, because your policy does not cover one single penny of your aftermarket system. You have to do what’s called a prorated add on policy


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

carlthess40 said:


> Great work. One thing so many forget or just don’t want to spend money on is your insurance. You have done a nice high end job, it would be crazy not to show all your receipts to your insurance company and pay the extra money to have the system covered,
> If your car was every ( fingers crossed and god willing that it never happens) you will not be allowed to remove anything that’s bolted down in the car. It will all be gone in a flash
> So upgrade your insurance on your car, because your policy does not cover one single penny of your aftermarket system. You have to do what’s called a prorated add on policy
> 
> ...


How exactly does getting your equipment insured work?


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## carlthess40 (Aug 21, 2018)

If you have full car insurance, you call them and tell them that you need to add insurance for your audio system, they will want to see the system in the car and any all all receipts that you have. You can get full replacement at time of lose or what the cost of the system was when you installed it. But sense you did the labor, you won’t get anything for that unless you have a shop write what the labor would be or if you know a shop that would write you a receipt for the labor. And that’s anything from 75 to 150 per hour of man hours 


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got a new tune put in for the new helix DSP and the Zapco 150.4 LX and everything is sounding amazing! Still needs some tweaks and still needs the subwoofer badly but I’m blown away. 

One issue I’m having now is some snaps/crackles across the midrange drivers. I had some issues with turn on/off pops getting the helix setup, could those have damaged them? Or is that possibly just noise issues? Everything is still kinda temped in so none of the wiring is very clean, and still using some cheap Crutchfield RCA cables until I get the new ones made. I’m really hoping the speakers aren’t damaged

Edit- I changed the ground selection on the DSP to “Isolated” and they went away. Whew!


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

The isolated ground switch seemed to fix it until I realized I did the comparison with the car being on and off. The next day the noise came back while the car was driving, meaning it was picking up electrical noise. I was trying out having the Topping D10 in the trunk with the rest of the equipment, which meant a longer USB cable to go from the phone to the Topping. Well that USB cable was picking up noise. I moved the topping back up front and made a new coaxial cable from the console to the trunk mounted DSP and that actually fixed all my noise issues for good. Also fixed an issue of having the 12v power feeding the DSP on accessory power instead of constant hit. Since I was losing line voltage when the car was turned completely off, the DSP lost power and couldn’t delay the turn of pop settings. So that’s now fixed as well

Here are some better finished pics of the front end. Now on to building the trunk baffle boards and the amp rack


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

He is building my system next...

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

All those hours and hours of watching tuning videos are starting to pay off. I got a custom 15" IB sub ordered from Stereo Integrity finally, waiting for it to be built and shipped. In the mean time I threw in an old Kicker CompR12" from my truck to see how it sounds with a sub. I still have a bunch of tuning to iron out, I need to get the gains set again to get alittle more headroom for quieter songs. I have the volume about maxed out on the director at my loudest listening volume, and sometimes some quieter recorded songs just don't cut it. I also have to figure out how to better align my mid-bass to mid-range speakers, I have a dip in the response at the crossover around 200ish I haven't figured out yet


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I have a question on the DSP to amp hookup. With the Rockford mono amp it needs both RCA channels plugged in. What’s the correct way to accomplish it, use an RCA splitter at the amp, or slave 2 channels together in the DSP? I’m currently using 9 out of the 10 available channels on the DSP so I have the room to combine them.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

chrisp2493 said:


> All those hours and hours of watching tuning videos are starting to pay off. I got a custom 15" IB sub ordered from Stereo Integrity finally, waiting for it to be built and shipped. In the mean time I threw in an old Kicker CompR12" from my truck to see how it sounds with a sub. I still have a bunch of tuning to iron out, I need to get the gains set again to get alittle more headroom for quieter songs. I have the volume about maxed out on the director at my loudest listening volume, and sometimes some quieter recorded songs just don't cut it. I also have to figure out how to better align my mid-bass to mid-range speakers, I have a dip in the response at the crossover around 200ish I haven't figured out yet
> View attachment 304052


 Just at a glance, if I were you along with diving into your phase issues at the crossovers I would attenuate that steep rise you have from 200 down and from the looks of it you have plenty of headroom there to have a more gradual rise all the way to 15 about... 3db per octave is the goal in the lowest octaves but obviously some people like more or however you like it but if you want to be able to experience those lower octaves equally at every level I would shoot for a more gradual rise that peaks at your lowest frequency. Just a thought for ya


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Mikebiz23 said:


> Just at a glance, if I were you along with diving into your phase issues at the crossovers I would attenuate that steep rise you have from 200 down and from the looks of it you have plenty of headroom there to have a more gradual rise all the way to 15 about... 3db per octave is the goal in the lowest octaves but obviously some people like more or however you like it but if you want to be able to experience those lower octaves equally at every level I would shoot for a more gradual rise that peaks at your lowest frequency. Just a thought for ya


Yes I do have some work on the mid bass to get a better rise, it was worse before with a very boomy, resonant midrange. The sub is just an old one I threw in just for some bass, once I get the SI sub installed I’ll spend more time tuning on the bottom end for sure. I’m aiming for a crossover point between mid bass and midrange around 200htz, and made the mistake of tuning the mid bass fairly flat which made way too much volume between 100 and 400 htz. So it’s getting closer to what it needs to be with some more time. With the SI sub in a trunk baffle setup, I’m expecting quite a bit more low end. One thing I noticed though is the Rockford amp has an infrasonic filter and the lowest I can set it is 15 htz, I don’t know if I can bypass it or not.


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Be greatful! My dsp has a highpass that cannot be set any lower than 25 and it cant be eliminated either so I'm jealous of that 15hz filter at this point! Well keep up the good work bro. Exactly what your doing is how you learn and get better results. Trial and error.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Still being held up by waiting for the rest of my equipment to show up. Still no word on the SI sub getting done yet, and it’s been almost 6 weeks and the helix amp still hasn’t arrived. Finally called the shop again this week and they made up some excuse about getting the address wrong and said it would be delivered yesterday. 

I’m looking into doing a 10” sub built into the glove box area, I’m gonna drop it out and see how much room I have to work with. I’m looking at maybe a Dayton 10” HO sub running on 200 watts. That will leave the 15” playing under 35htz.


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## TrashPanda (May 21, 2021)

Fantastic build man.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

TrashPanda said:


> Fantastic build man.


Thank you  I’ve been having an absolute blast learning about how to put a good system together, and it’s just blowing me away with how fun it is to listen to 


I dropped the glovebox and was very happy to find a nice layout under it that should make for an easy box install with about .35-.4 ft3 available and plenty of depth. I ordered the Dayton HO 10” sub from Parts express last night, should be here in a few days. Hopefully 200 watts should be enough to cover response from 35-80htz. This is gonna be awesome!


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## Black Rain (Feb 27, 2011)

chrisp2493 said:


> All those hours and hours of watching tuning videos are starting to pay off. I got a custom 15" IB sub ordered from Stereo Integrity finally, waiting for it to be built and shipped. In the mean time I threw in an old Kicker CompR12" from my truck to see how it sounds with a sub. I still have a bunch of tuning to iron out, I need to get the gains set again to get alittle more headroom for quieter songs. I have the volume about maxed out on the director at my loudest listening volume, and sometimes some quieter recorded songs just don't cut it. I also have to figure out how to better align my mid-bass to mid-range speakers, I have a dip in the response at the crossover around 200ish I haven't figured out yet
> View attachment 304052


I see you are using a Scanspeak 11m, that's a 4.5" midrange so why not change the crossover to something lower like 150hz and allow more of those lower vocals fire from the dash? It may help raising the stage some and help with that dip.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Black Rain said:


> I see you are using a Scanspeak 11m, that's a 4.5" midrange so why not change the crossover to something lower like 150hz and allow more of those lower vocals fire from the dash? It may help raising the stage some and help with that dip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I will look into it on the next round of tuning. I think I played them with some lower crossovers to see where they rolled off naturally and went from there. I’ll try that again and see if I can drop them any lower


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

6 weeks later and the Helix M 6 is finally here. This will do 2 channels of rear fill, 2 channels of mid bass and the last 2 channels will be bridged for the front sub. Now I gotta decide if I really want to order the Helix M One X just so the amp rack matches instead of the Fosgate amp being the odd one out….I know I’m not gonna get any major improvement but it’s gonna bother me having so much mismatched gear. Also the 10” front sub is here, as soon as I can get my basement shop all put back together I should have time to get back to finishing this out


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Well, I think I got my sub amplifier situation figured out rather nicely thanks to Huckleberry Sound. Now I gotta figure out how to fit all that AB class goodness! I want a really spectacular amp rack back here, but still going to try and keep some usable space in the trunk. I think once I get the baffle board installed, that will help me visualize how to mount the rest of the amps. The rear mounted factory battery is taking up quite a lot of space, and pushes everything off center which is annoying. Please ignore the horrible wiring, everything is still just temporary to keep it running while I work on the back


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the baffle cut and mounted. Still waiting on the SI sub, it’s been almost 2 months, looks like I’ll have to cal again and see what’s going on. Once I get the sub mounted I can start the final layout for the amps


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Hopefully your sub will arrive soon! I'm working on my new pillars right now, after that my next project will be IB. I was hoping to get an 2 FI ib318 but I dunno when they will be back in stock if ever...🙄. I might go with the AE's


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Just got this update from SI, my sub should be done in a few days. Can’t wait!


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

Wow.. that thing is a monster


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## TrashPanda (May 21, 2021)

Dayum. Beastly.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Nick posted a nice testing video. That looks really beastly! I can’t wait to post a pick of my current 12” kicker comp-VR beside it lol


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

So how long overall did it take? What's the price?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Mikebiz23 said:


> So how long overall did it take? What's the price?


I think it’s been around 7 weeks since I ordered the IB sub. I originally called and was swapping to the SQL15, but decided to try his custom IB sub after another member mentioned he knew he made custom 15’s. I didn’t want to try to fit an 18” in my trunk. It was around $480 for this, I think the price might be alittle higher now


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Well the kicker has been a good friend for over 9 years and 3 vehicles. Time for the old girl to hang it up


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

What’s better then 1 Zapco LX amps? Well, I guess 2 of them! I scored another one from a new friend I met at the SQology car meet a few weeks ago. The Helix M 6 was fine but after all this work I guess the amps need to match for maximum style points. Plus it put out 100 watts at both 2 and 4 ohm load which wasn’t ideal. It’s kinda sad but this is now the 9th amp that’s been in the car since I started  oh well, at least now I have some awesome amps that I’ll enjoy. I might even run them with one amp per side for all 4 speakers, Tweet, mid, midbass and the rear fill. Then the AP will handle the two subs. 

So we all know door midbass sucks and I think I will fix that soon. I also picked up a set of Stevens Audio MB-8 2ohm drivers. The plan is to eventually run them in vented kick pods. With the 2 ohm driver, that should give me 250 watts of midbass power. 

I really can’t wait to get all this finished up, the only thing holding me back is finishing my basement shop which has been a 2 month long project right now. But I’m nearing the end and should have time to work on the car in a few weeks


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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

All that pretty equipment... I wanna see you use that shop to build a beautiful amp rack and kicks to go with them!! Lookin awesome!👨‍🏫


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## audiokid1 (Jul 2, 2014)

Constantly updating your shop to fit your needs will never end. My current shop layout is quite a bit different than I pictured it 4-5 years ago. I used to work out a basement shop without a walkout and hauling raw goods and finished products up and down tight spaces got the best of me.

Side Note: The walnut and curly maple table your speakers are sitting on is pretty nice. If you ever work with Curly/Quilted maple, I recommend using water dyes to make the figure pop.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

audiokid1 said:


> Constantly updating your shop to fit your needs will never end. My current shop layout is quite a bit different than I pictured it 4-5 years ago. I used to work out a basement shop without a walkout and hauling raw goods and finished products up and down tight spaces got the best of me.
> 
> Side Note: The walnut and curly maple table your speakers are sitting on is pretty nice. If you ever work with Curly/Quilted maple, I recommend using water dyes to make the figure pop.


Woodworking was another hobby of mine a few years back. I just don’t have access to the larger planers and some specialty tools anymore


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## audiokid1 (Jul 2, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> Woodworking was another hobby of mine a few years back. I just don’t have access to the larger planers and some specialty tools anymore


Not many people realize that a big part of building fine furniture is paying attention to grain flow and continuity. I like to resaw veneers and am frequently marking material as I work. Adding dye to sapwood (especially walnut) is something I frequently do as well.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Making some more progress finally. I picked up a Rivnut tool and man that thing is amazing. It made mounting the baffle board and the amp rack so much better then the self tapping sheet metal screws I was using before. Also, mounting a 45lb sub from the back seat is not fun at all


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Now that I have the sub mounted in I can start laying out the final amp rack design. It’s really hard deciding between mild to wild. It’s definitely tight with the large amps, and I can’t mount them centered up because of the battery being in the way so it’s going to be a compromise one way or the other


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I think I decided on a layout, and I’m starting to make the brackets


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)




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## carlthess40 (Aug 21, 2018)

chrisp2493 said:


> What’s better then 1 Zapco LX amps? Well, I guess 2 of them! I scored another one from a new friend I met at the SQology car meet a few weeks ago. The Helix M 6 was fine but after all this work I guess the amps need to match for maximum style points. Plus it put out 100 watts at both 2 and 4 ohm load which wasn’t ideal. It’s kinda sad but this is now the 9th amp that’s been in the car since I started  oh well, at least now I have some awesome amps that I’ll enjoy. I might even run them with one amp per side for all 4 speakers, Tweet, mid, midbass and the rear fill. Then the AP will handle the two subs.
> 
> So we all know door midbass sucks and I think I will fix that soon. I also picked up a set of Stevens Audio MB-8 2ohm drivers. The plan is to eventually run them in vented kick pods. With the 2 ohm driver, that should give me 250 watts of midbass power.
> 
> I really can’t wait to get all this finished up, the only thing holding me back is finishing my basement shop which has been a 2 month long project right now. But I’m nearing the end and should have time to work on the car in a few weeks


I need you over here , I can’t get my shop setup to save my life, every time I get ready to do that , something else comes up
Nice looking work shop


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Rivnuts are a life saver. They make the install so clean


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Started on the front sub box. It’s a tight fit for sure. I was able to easily add 3x 1/4-20 rib nuts to the crash bar and it holds it pretty solidly


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I got the power and ground distribution block made up with some scrap material I had laying around at work.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Now to start on the RCA’s. 1 down, 9 to go! These are very time consuming, especially for such short ones trying to get all the wire loom over it with enough to trim neatly after it’s assembled. After using cheap junky soldering irons for years, I finally stepped up and got a real one, as well as a helping hands station which I don’t understand how I survived without one


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

RCA’s finished


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

Beautiful!!! Where'd you find that helping hands station?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

mfenske said:


> Beautiful!!! Where'd you find that helping hands station?


Amazon for $25

KOTTO Helping Hands Soldering, Third Hand Soldering Tool PCB Holder Four Arms Helping Hands Crafts Jewelry Hobby Workshop Helping Station Non-Slip Steel Weighted Base Amazon.com: KOTTO Helping Hands Soldering, Third Hand Soldering Tool PCB Holder Four Arms Helping Hands Crafts Jewelry Hobby Workshop Helping Station Non-Slip Steel Weighted Base : Tools & Home Improvement


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Distribution block is mounted and wired in. I have to get some 1/0 cable today to finish from the battery to the block. I might just be able to get some sound out of it tonight finally!


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I have music back  look at that sub response curve, no EQ at all! It should play lower then what it shows, I was only using 20htz-20khtz pink noise, I'll have to use the REW pink noise to see how well it plays lower. I still have a ton of work to do with all the beauty panels, but its getting closer.


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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

chrisp2493 said:


> I have music back  look at that sub response curve, no EQ at all! It should play lower then what it shows, I was only using 20htz-20khtz pink noise, I'll have to use the REW pink noise to see how well it plays lower. I still have a ton of work to do with all the beauty panels, but its getting closer.
> View attachment 311877


Nice and deep for sure! Gotta question though… you’re about 30dB higher 20hz than 60hz. What are you using for midbass and what are your crossovers? I didn’t go back and refresh my and I’m old but this is a AE 15” trunk baffle?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

DaveG said:


> Nice and deep for sure! Gotta question though… you’re about 30dB higher 20hz than 60hz. What are you using for midbass and what are your crossovers? I didn’t go back and refresh my and I’m old but this is a AE 15” trunk baffle?


7” midbass in the doors right now. Sub crossed at 60, midbass crossed at 80. The midbass need tuned right now, I had to change a bunch of settings in the tune and basically started from scratch so I haven’t had time to fully retune the midbass to clean them up yet. The sub is a custom Stereo Integrity IB15” in a trunk baffle. I’m also finding out I tend to like more bass then a typical true SQ build usually has


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## cdlowe30907 (Nov 21, 2018)

What hardware did you use to mount your rear to the baffle?
Trying to find some hardware for my SQL-12.
Thanks


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

cdlowe30907 said:


> What hardware did you use to mount your rear to the baffle?
> Trying to find some hardware for my SQL-12.
> Thanks


T nuts and 10-32 bolts. Make sure to use washers so it doesn’t tear up the surround


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## cdlowe30907 (Nov 21, 2018)

Do you have pictures of the finish mounts sub?
I saw one on post 82 that had large washers.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

cdlowe30907 said:


> Do you have pictures of the finish mounts sub?
> I saw one on post 82 that had large washers.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Here we go with the front sub. I hooked it up temporarily in an old box just to see if it would be worth the effort, and man it sure sounded amazing. It really helps put the kick into the midbass. But it was not easy making the box, trying to get the ring set just in the right place was a challenge 


























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## Mikebiz23 (Jun 27, 2020)

What is the sub?


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Mikebiz23 said:


> What is the sub?


It’s a Dayton Reference 10” 


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> Here we go with the front sub. I hooked it up temporarily in an old box just to see if it would be worth the effort, and man it sure sounded amazing. It really helps put the kick into the midbass. But it was not easy making the box, trying to get the ring set just in the right place was a challenge
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hell yeah. If it wasn't for running horns. I'd be seriously considering an up front sub

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Gonna add one more layer of fiberglass then start with body filler to blend it all in











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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> Started on the front sub box. It’s a tight fit for sure. I was able to easily add 3x 1/4-20 rib nuts to the crash bar and it holds it pretty solidly


I've always wondered about mounting and that's a genius way to do it.

Also, I'd throw some CLD on the inside of fiberglass part. FG is resonate.

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> I've always wondered about mounting and that's a genius way to do it.
> 
> Also, I'd throw some CLD on the inside of fiberglass part. FG is resonate.
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q730 using Tapatalk


I’ll be adding in some kind of milkshake type resin to the inside of the fiberglass to help deaden it for sure 


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

Just a thought. I have a friend who's won like every single SQ competition he's entered and he did his build in an interesting way. 

He had his midrange/tweet on dash. Midbass in kicks. Front sub and rear sub. Don't think he even vented the kickpanel driver. Reason being, you only need airspace if you're playing a driver down low. He had an up front sub and anything under 300hz in a car is mono anyway due to wavelengths. 

So he ran his driver's like so.

Back sub(infinite baffle) 0-50
Front sub 50-150(maybe 200)
Kick panel midbass 200-1k
Midrange 1k-4k
Tweet 4k-20k

And it worked like a charm. 

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Just a thought. I have a friend who's won like every single SQ competition he's entered and he did his build in an interesting way.
> 
> He had his midrange/tweet on dash. Midbass in kicks. Front sub and rear sub. Don't think he even vented the kickpanel driver. Reason being, you only need airspace if you're playing a driver down low. He had an up front sub and anything under 300hz in a car is mono anyway due to wavelengths.
> 
> ...


Yeah I was thinking about running some of the drivers up alittle higher. I’ll have to see how it all looks when I start tuning. Since I have a set of the Stevens MB-8’s for the kicks, I’ll see how high up they will play before I turn it over to the midrange


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

I really hate fiberglass, but I can’t wait for these to be done!


















































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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

Saw you in Peter’s video and liked your portion. I haven’t finished it so don’t tell me the end please! Looking forward to your finished project (although we all know they never end!). I know you mentioned the kicks but don’t remember if you said vented… Vented? And you also mentioned sails instead of the pillars… Is that Peter’s preference? Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. Dave


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

DaveG said:


> Saw you in Peter’s video and liked your portion. I haven’t finished it so don’t tell me the end please! Looking forward to your finished project (although we all know they never end!). I know you mentioned the kicks but don’t remember if you said vented… Vented? And you also mentioned sails instead of the pillars… Is that Peter’s preference? Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. Dave


Thanks man! You might be surprised when you get to the end…..my plan is vented kicks, I will take some measurements just to see first with them sealed up. I don’t need them to play low with the front sub taking care of the heavier midbass. I’m considering the sail panels, that was from doing a demo in a similiar car at a SQ competition that had his tweets in the sail, it helped widen the stage on the driver side instead of stopping at the piller. Still debating on that right now 


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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

chrisp2493 said:


> Thanks man! You might be surprised when you get to the end…..my plan is vented kicks, I will take some measurements just to see first with them sealed up. I don’t need them to play low with the front sub taking care of the heavier midbass. I’m considering the sail panels, that was from doing a demo in a similiar car at a SQ competition that had his tweets in the sail, it helped widen the stage on the driver side instead of stopping at the piller. Still debating on that right now
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Guess I gotta go finish watching it! Yours was by far nicer and I’m about two hours in.
Anyway like everything it’s a trade off. You’re moving the tweeter further from the mid and closer to you at the same time. Sails are just adding a little width. Not to mention running additional wires through the friggin molex connected. A buddy went from dash to sails to pillars and I heard it plenty in all three iterations and sails was my least favorite. Anyway you have the skills so either way I’m sure will be killer!


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## DaveG (Jul 24, 2019)

Oh dude congrats! Sweet! Didn’t realize it was by drawing. Lucky you! Mind sharing what y’all decided on to help your system? And tell me about his patrion if you don’t mind.


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

DaveG said:


> Oh dude congrats! Sweet! Didn’t realize it was by drawing. Lucky you! Mind sharing what y’all decided on to help your system? And tell me about his patrion if you don’t mind.


Yep just a lucky drawing. You know, honestly I’m having a hard time deciding, I really have everything I need right now. I was thinking maybe a better midbass designed for IB like a micro precision 5 series, but with the front sub I don’t need the midbass to play low anymore so the Stevens MB-8’s should be fine. I might be able to use more sound deadening materials, or maybe just set up a consultation call or some help with remote tuning, I’m still deciding. 
If you enjoy his YouTube videos, his Patreon videos are even more in depth. He does a weekly topic video, guys submit questions and he randomly picks 1 or 2 and goes over them for 20-30 minutes. Very helpful, lots of information. He has some more tuning/RTA videos from the various project cars, but still basically a vague overview of the finished project. As you can probably understand, he still keeps some of the techniques to himself. I still enjoy it and it’s been well worth it in my opinion


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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

They say once you go floor, you never go door again, and I can see why. The enclosures are about .23 cubic feet sealed with a Stevens Audio MB-8 2 ohm driver on Zapco 150.4LX. The comparison are my old Anarchy 704 7” drivers in the doors. The right side was decent in the doors, but the driver side had the usual cancelations and never really summed perfectly with the dash mids. Yes, I did EQ it with a heavy rising response, I am trying out a heavier lower midrange tune for heavy metal/deathcore, and I’ll have another tune for SQ type music that’s much flatter. I still need to finish the fabric wrap and some touch up, but they are finally playing after months of waiting


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

I ran 10in midbass in kicks vented outside. These were my measurements. 

I believe that the giant lower midrange gain is from the super small enclosure and the small amount of air inside it of it resonating while the kick panels generally having a large gain in that area as well. What does nearfield look like?

















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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> I ran 10in midbass in kicks vented outside. These were my measurements.
> 
> I believe that the giant lower midrange gain is from the super small enclosure and the small amount of air inside it of it resonating while the kick panels generally having a large gain in that area as well. What does nearfield look like?
> 
> ...


I need to grab a near field measurement just to see. I know these speakers are designed more for infinite baffle in doors, but I figured I would give it a shot sealed before I cut anything. I wonder if I opened them up if they would play alittle more flat so I wouldn’t have to EQ so much


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> I need to grab a near field measurement just to see. I know these speakers are designed more for infinite baffle in doors, but I figured I would give it a shot sealed before I cut anything. I wonder if I opened them up if they would play alittle more flat so I wouldn’t have to EQ so much
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I had the same drivers as you. Did some testing before.

First pic was totally sealed. Nearfield

2nd pic was opened up venting outside. Possibly nearfield. might be at ear tho.
















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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> I had the same drivers as you. Did some testing before.
> 
> First pic was totally sealed. Nearfield
> 
> ...


Do you know what caused all your big dips in that response between 100-300?


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> Do you know what caused all your big dips in that response between 100-300?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm not sure tbh. Here's a pic of a larger enclosure around the driver and vented outside. Nearfield










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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Think it was just the car. It was an acoustic nightmare. Here's a pic of a larger enclosure around the driver and vented outside. Nearfield
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sounds like the jigsaw is coming out this weekend 


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

chrisp2493 said:


> Sounds like the jigsaw is coming out this weekend
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Experiment idea. 

Do a nearfield. Then take the enclosure out. Strap it down in the garage so the enclosure can't move when the driver plays. do a nearfield. If the two are similar enough then you can test if venting it will work. Simply cut out the back of the enclosure and do a nearfield. Should tell you what you need to know without cutting metal. If the first two match that is. 

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## chrisp2493 (Apr 18, 2021)

Jscoyne2 said:


> Experiment idea.
> 
> Do a nearfield. Then take the enclosure out. Strap it down in the garage so the enclosure can't move when the driver plays. do a nearfield. If the two are similar enough then you can test if venting it will work. Simply cut out the back of the enclosure and do a nearfield. Should tell you what you need to know without cutting metal. If the first two match that is.
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q730 using Tapatalk


Thanks for that idea, it would be way easier patching the enclosure back up then putting metal back in


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