# Help with Mosconi 4to6 DSP Tuning



## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

New to this sort of advanced tuning. I've attached a PDF of the settings I have so far and looking for input.

Running the following gear.

Mosconi 4to6 DSP
PHD Pro 6.1 Components (running active)
JL 12w6v2
JL JX 1000/1 amp
Mosconi 120/4 for woofers/tweeters

Stock HU in a 2014 Taurus SHO


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## Mitsu1grn (Sep 22, 2008)

Greetings!

For a true L/R -24db per octave slope you need to use two -12 db per octave Butterworth filters. That will get you that alignment. 

I would suggest that you try inverting phase on your tweeters and see if your sound is a bit more cohesive. Same for your sub alignment. 

Not knowing anything about the PHD drivers I cannot make any suggestions on frequency crossover points. That you will need to ask someone else

Seems like a good start though!

Nick Wingate
Orca Design and Mfg.


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

I figured out the muddy sound in the top range. I had the midrange cut off way too low. Once I put them up to 17K (PHD's are rated to 20KHZ) it brought out a fuller sound between the tweets and mids.

Odd, but it worked.


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

freq response


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## jemeil89 (Jan 7, 2014)

hi i just purchased a mosconi and i installed the software but my tunning sucked can anyone email me a preset to understand
this thing better

4 to 6


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

Yeah, I am struggling with it as well. Not a beginner item.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I'm sorry to read that are struggling with the 4to6. I was under the impression that it was tuned before it shipped. Did you get the Bluetooth dongle to go with it? If so then your car can be remote tuned basically to your satisfaction. I picked that and the controller up as I didn't want to mess with the tuning personally. Hopefully someone who works for Orca will chime in with some very useful information. Again I hope that you and your car have arrived safely at the newest location. Post some pics up if you would like. My best to you, and hopefully had a great day.


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

It isn't that it sounds horrible. Simple matter of getting it sounding great requires skill. Out of the box you can only get it so good.

I just have a USB wire run to the drivers seat for tuning. The BT dongle is too expensive for what it is.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I know what you mean as far as the sounding great part, but aren't your speakers still loosening up? I know that in the beginning my tune was a little off, but as those Illusions warmed up, they started to sound a whole lot better. I agree that the. BT piece is expensive, but I wanted peace of mind so I pulled the trigger on it. Would quickly do it again, not so much on my controller as I hardly touch it.


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## GERMANIKS (Dec 7, 2013)

To me the BT dongle is mandatory for the tuning process. Only 30 euros public price in Europe. 
You can skip the dongle if you have enough cable length so you can adjust the settings on the fly while sitting in the car. For time alignment especially it makes your life so much better and much faster instead of going back and forward to the trunk where it usually is installed.
I have my file for the 6to8 that I am happy to share, probably not perfect but it sounds pretty dawn good now.
Will post it later, pc in offline at the moment.


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## GERMANIKS (Dec 7, 2013)

Also OP a sound engineer taught me that from an EQ point of view, any frequency that a speaker can not reproduce properly should be cut off from the EQ.
For example let say your tweeters start at 5000hz, example ok, anything below that shoulf be set at -12db
Same for a low pass on a mid bass, anything over let say 300hz should be dropped to -12 and below let say 50hz should be dropped the same way.

Two advantages, save a processing time for the sound processor, works more efficiently, and only proper frequencies are going to the speaker in question, so it does not try to reproduce frequencies it was not designed for. Probably less stress on it and overall better sound quality. 

My 2 cents


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## nanohead (Oct 21, 2013)

These Mosconi DSPs are definitely not beginner items. I've found a decent procedure for at least getting technical crossover points set and the equalizer baselined.

I read the technical specs for all the speakers that I have (its quite an assortment at the moment). I run the mid bass and tweets through the Mosconi, the sub is independent directly into the amp. The speakers all have published "specs" for their frequency range. They also likely have specs for recommended crossover slopes in many cases. I actually matched up the detailed specs for the speakers in the Mosconi settings as a start...

An example would be: Legatia L6V1 has a published frequency range of 51.5 Hz – 5,000 Hz. They also recommend a 24db slope for high end rolloff. So I set the high pass at 80Hz to start with at a 12db slope (they have room below the 80hz), using a Butterworth. For the low pass, I set it at 5000 Hz, using Butterworth 12db TWICE (which equals 24db), in other words, I set 2 of the crossover fields identically. I then lowered the high pass to 63Hz to see if the speakers would hold together (they did). I actually lowered the low pass to 4500hz, as that sounded somewhat better also. Incidentally, the crossover type is also massively confusing to most people. Butterworth is a reasonable place to start, as its a classic standard crossover mechanism. Linkwitz is mathematically related to Butterworth. And the other types of crossovers yield different characteristics. Variable Q is far more complex, but can yield smoother blending of soundscapes. 

This worked out as a place to start. I did the same with all the other speakers. If the crossovers are set correctly for each speaker type, then you have a solid baseline.

Its important to note, that you have to make sure your amps are set up correctly too, or you'll be having bandpass conflicts. If you're using the DSP, then you don't really need any crossover settings on your amps, so flat is the way to run the amps. 

Also, don't add any processing in the head unit. No equalizer, nothing. Run it with all audio settings OFF, and your balance/fader centered. This way, the head unit won't get in the way of the DSP initially.

Once the crossovers are set for the speakers based on the speaker's design specs, you can now start technical tuning. You can get a free spectrum analyzer from whichever app store you may like (apple, android), and download a pink and/or white noise test tone (there's a zillion of them). Pink noise is a broad frequency static tone, where all levels in the audio spectrum SOUND like they're at the same level. White noise is where they are technically AT the same level (these are crude explanations, but decent for our purposes). In a perfect world, when you play the white noise test tone through the head unit, with the spectrum analyzer running on your phone or tablet, every band of audio spectrum would be identical levels. Pink noise would register as a linear "declining" spectral graph.

This will never occur of course. Now comes the part that has no right answer. You'll have high peaks and low troughs in a variety of different bands of the audio spectrum. You can now use the Equalizer settings in the DSP to compensate for the low and high "bumps" in your real playing spectrum in the car. Also note, that the mic in your phone/tablet is not exactly a precision instrument, but its good enough to get a solid approximation. Do all this with the engine off BTW.

If you achieve perfectly flat response after equalization, it will likely sound like crap in most cases. Now you have to totally confuse yourself and ruin your flat response curve and make it sound the way you like it to sound, with some music you're familiar with. You'll listen to the same song 1000 times with different settings, start hating the song, and then change to another song, and then you'll hate the settings 

The DSP has many other settings, like time correction (which if set correctly, especially in larger vehicles) can legitimately make the sound more airy and move the soundstage. Time correction is painfully confusing to set, but its usually worth it, especially for the driver if you set if for the drivers head.

I use Excel as a guidebook for the settings. I make a spreadsheet that has all the static settings (speaker frequency range, slopes, etc). I also do the time alignment measurements, and then the difference calculations in the spreadsheet too, so in theory, if I measure and calculate correctly, then the time alignment becomes a fill in the blank exercise.

One of my disappointments with the Mosconi, is that there's no auto setup routine. This is not unique to the Mosconi though, as none of the popular DSPs have an auto calibrate function (save the Alpine). This is pretty pathetic, as many $200 surround sound receivers for home theater can include this basic function. This would be especially useful for time alignment, which is mentally exhausting to set up, especially in a complex system.

I hope this helps. There's no perfect way to do this stuff, and many people have differing opinions of how to go about this. This procedure has yielded really good results for me in several vehicles.


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

Question for the group. I'm fairly happy with my settings now at mid volume. Once the volume gets kicked up the highs on female voices can be piercing. What frequency is this at? I assume I just need to lower the gain in that particular range but I'm not sure where it is at. Male voices don't have the same problem unless it is a dude with a chicks voice...lol

Thanks.


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## Mic10is (Aug 20, 2007)

1.25-2.5k is harshness
6-8k is sibilance ( sharp "S" sound)
10-12k is brightness


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## BigRed (Aug 12, 2007)

Mic10is said:


> 1.25-2.5k is harshness
> 6-8k is sibilance ( sharp "S" sound)
> 10-12k is brightness


250-800 is muddy


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

So do I need to lower the gains on the parametric EQ at those frequencies?

Also, I have only one filter set for the tweeters. High pass, butterworth 12db at 2500


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Hello, how's that Taurus treating you outside of the 4to6 ?


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## Fast GXP (Oct 14, 2012)

Love the SHO. had it cruising at 110mph on the autobahn and as high as 135mph.


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## sonnyB (Aug 23, 2015)

Just installed Mosconi 4to6 DSP to a full Focal system (Amps and drivers). Having trouble getting it tuned. I noticed there was a PDF attachment of the settings posted back in 2012 and would be interested in any advice on setting this DSP up. 
Focal System:
Front - Utopia Be #7 (3-way)
Rear - K-2 (2-Way) 
Sub - 15" 

Sonny


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## sonnyB (Aug 23, 2015)

OK, I'm new to blogging and now it shows; usually just read only. I was looking at the date member Fast GXP joined in Oct 2012, "sorry". 

I couldn't open the PDF settings he posted after I joined Diy post. I have a Windows 10 laptop and, I'm thinking that new system drivers may be my problem with the settings. Focal system is in a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit and wiring was a nightmare. Finally got it sorted with straight wiring through the amps. Now that I have added the 4to6 I am having problems with the setup. Still trying to figure out where to get the "Pink Noise" to do the initial calibrations. Will give Mosconi a call next week to see if they have any answers. Figured I'd try blog to see if anyone can help.

Sonny


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

Not sure what you mean by initial calibrations. You need to power up the DSP and connect to it then set your crossovers before playing any music. Also set your input levels. You can use the pink noise to tune your system and then finish by ear. Also use this to set you TA
http://tracerite.com/calc.html as it will get it pretty much spot on. Mosconi has pink noise track for download on the site GLADEN GERMAN TECHNOLOGY
scroll to bottom of page to find them

I use a free program called REW to tune with. It has its own tone generator, you will need to purchase a usb mic like the UMIK-1. A lot of people here use that software to tune there system.


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

sonnyB said:


> Just installed Mosconi 4to6 DSP to a full Focal system (Amps and drivers). Having trouble getting it tuned. I noticed there was a PDF attachment of the settings posted back in 2012 and would be interested in any advice on setting this DSP up.
> Focal System:
> Front - Utopia Be #7 (3-way)
> Rear - K-2 (2-Way)
> ...


Noticed your first post and you should of got a Mosconi 6to8 since you have 3 way front. That alone will use all of the 4to6 channels leaving you nothing for the sub. Even with the 6to8 you would have to run the rears passive as there is not enough channels in the DSP.


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## Lycancatt (Apr 11, 2010)

it sounds like his whole system is run passive, this is the only way I can see the 4 to 6 being enough. the focal crossovers are very good but I'd much rather run the mid/tweet on 2 channels, the woofers on 2 more, and the rears in mono and the sub on the last 2 channels.


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

Lycancatt said:


> it sounds like his whole system is run passive, this is the only way I can see the 4 to 6 being enough. the focal crossovers are very good but I'd much rather run the mid/tweet on 2 channels, the woofers on 2 more, and the rears in mono and the sub on the last 2 channels.


Could very well be. Need more info on how system is setup. using a processor on a passive system is kinda a waste of the DSPs processing power


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## sonnyB (Aug 23, 2015)

Hammer1/Lycancatt,

Wow, Thanks for info. I downloaded software from the Gladen site but didn't see the pink noise at the bottom. 

I have the front Utopia Be (1/2) and the back K2s, tweeters and mid/base are (3/4), the sub is in (5/6). Right now seems like Low Pass is taking over the system. I will probably be up most of the night trying to fix. Thanks for chiming in with the new info? 

Sonny


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

I am going to take it that the utopias are on 2 channels of your amp and the K2s on the other two channels. I would run just the utopias for now with the mid base on 1&2 and the mids and tweets on 3&4 and just run the K2s off the headunit for rear fill. This way you will get a lot more out of that DSP. You would not need the passive crossover for the mid base just use it for the mids and tweets. This way you will be able to get the most out of time alignment of the mid base and the mid /tweet


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## sonnyB (Aug 23, 2015)

I'm thinking I might just be better off buying the 4to8 after all the investment in the system. I'm working on it now and, I think I will hook it up as you suggested till next weekend. Any longer, I may get lazy and keep it that way. Anyway, life is too short for listening to distorted tunes.

Sonny


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## Hammer1 (Jan 30, 2011)

Don't know what amp you are running but would need at least 10 channels to run all active. I would do fronts active and rear passive plus sub. You could pick up another 4to6 as a 6to8 will still not be enough to run all active


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## ftmsmohan (Feb 12, 2016)

@Fast GXP

Do you mind to share your Subwoofer EQ?
What tools do you use to EQ all your drivers??

Initially tried to EQ using REW but somehow not so satisfied with the outcome.
So I have used the same EQ as yours and it works perfectly for my setup.

I'm running 7 channel setup (on 6 Channel DSP)
Focal Performance PS 165F3 (3 Way Active)
Helix Precision P10W (Subwoofer)

HU: Pioneer AVH-5850BT

Amp:
Mosconi 130.4 DSP (for Midbass + Midrange)
Helix HDP4 (for Subwoofer + Tweeter)

Crossover setup:
80hz LR 24db - Low Pass - Subwoofer

80hz LR 24db - High Pass - Midbass
400hz LR 24db - Low Pass - Midbass

400hz LR 24db - High Pass - Midrange
4000hz BW 12db - Low Pass - Midrange

4000hz BW 12db - High Pass - Tweeter

Since my DSP has only 6 channel (actually one of the chl is faulty), so I only have 5 channel to use on DSP, I used it for Sub+Midbass+Midrange. TW i control it from my HU Pioneer AVH-5850BT.


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