# Audiomobile EVO 2410



## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

There's not a lot of info on this driver out there. 

Evo Series | Audiomobile

I'm going to use this with a pair of GB60 and GB15s. The plan was to go with a GB10D4, but there wasn't room. Looking for nice tight bass. My dealer suggested the EVO and it appeared to be a perfect fit. Pretty cool that Audiomobile is back. I remember them from the late 80's. 

The driver is all business.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Before I started to build my enclosure, I called Audiomobile. Straight through, I was in touch with Matthew Overpeck. He is Audiomobile. All tech. Awesome customer support.


Time to build.

I'm shooting for .4-.5 cubic ft.

3M 08243 for the initial bond. 2-3 minute work time. Very fast, very strong. 


I use a sacrificial board to hold my side at 90. 


I notch the corner for squeeze out.

A lot of it is sand to fit. 


This is some bad ass paper.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Long block with some 80 to flatten out the top.


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## dcfis (Sep 9, 2016)

Superb cuts! I'd like to hear those subs, I like that they are reasonable size


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## Weightless (May 5, 2005)

Very nice work. That last pic is the moneyshot.

I guess you name suits you, lol.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Weightless said:


> Very nice work. That last pic is the moneyshot.
> 
> I guess you name suits you, lol.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


Yep, It's all about the pics.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)




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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

clean work


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Thanks for the compliments. 

The EVO has a soft overlay on top of the flange. It doesn't sit flat, so I made a recess for the flange to sit down into. 



I set my Jasper Jig to 9 1/8" for the cutout. I cut the step at 10 3/8" with a .100" drop. 

Here's the hardware.


Perfect head size.




I like the flange and clamping pressure of a T-nut, but don't use the spikes. Trimmed them down. 




13/64 hole for the T-nut.


Here you can see the modified T-nut epoxied in and the perfect fit of the driver.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Lag bolts epoxied in for securing the enclosure.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

I ran the top long and cut it to it's final dimension.


Covered the inside with Stinger Ultimate Roadkill. 


Deadened up the box really well and the soft foam should really eliminate reflections. Nice stuff. 




I bonded 1/4" mdf to the sides to stiffen them up. 




Rounded the corners.




There is about 8 coats of urethane primer on it.


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

Looks very clean!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

A little guide coat to finish it off.






Here you can see the guide coat in action.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)




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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

I love excellent customer support. Called Audiofrog with some tuning questions. Straight through to Andy. He took the time to answer all of my questions, and gave me some great advise.

2 days later, this is at my door.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here is the old system. 


I ran a steel box with an 8" L7 for a while. Worked pretty good but it's time to come out. It's welded and bonded in.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Cleaned up. Ready for the new panel. 


I went with a panel bond. Much stronger than spot welds. Full contact.



This epoxy will give you plenty of time. Easily an hour working time. Kick it up to 140f and it will set within minutes. 
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...-Bonding-Adhesive?N=5002385+3293241847&rt=rud

Here's the schedule to give you an idea of the cure cycle.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

I brushed the panel bond on both surfaces then put a little bead down the center just to be sure.




Made a plate to cover the bottom.


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## Onyx1136 (Mar 15, 2009)

What did you use to make that cut in the back of the cab? Looks too clean to be a body saw.


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## Shane (Oct 8, 2009)

Your attention to detail is amazing.

It hints at the attention to detail that that another member on this site possesses: Robolop.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Onyx1136 said:


> What did you use to make that cut in the back of the cab? Looks too clean to be a body saw.


Yep, I used an air saw. Drilled some holes at the top corners first to eliminate any stress risers.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Shane said:


> Your attention to detail is amazing.
> 
> It hints at the attention to detail that that another member on this site possesses: Robolop.


I appreciate that. It does take me forever to get each step done though. 

I know Robolop's work, it's incredible. This is more of a functional build. The last install was good for 10 years, so I try to build in some longevity.


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## Erick_Markland (Aug 30, 2017)

look dope :thumbsup:


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## EcoRS (Oct 24, 2017)

OCD66 said:


> Before I started to build my enclosure, I called Audiomobile. Straight through, I was in touch with Matthew Overpeck. He is Audiomobile. All tech. Awesome customer support.
> 
> 
> Time to build.
> ...


Good to see Audiomobile is back - I was running a single Mass 2012 back in the day and hit 143.0 in a DB Drag competition in San Diego in a 2000 Mercury Cougar--way before the mics were revamped and became more difficult to score 140+ (at that time, est: 2001ish).

Matt Overpeck was the main dude then and ultimately ran the company into the ground for numerous reasons. Hopefully he's matured over the years and learned some business savvy, as his products were top notch then.


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## nstaln (Feb 11, 2009)

I luvs me some Audiomobile! I currently have (5) Mass 12's








I'm glad the company is making a resurgence. Your install looks fantastic...as one who is also plagued by OCD, I really like your attention to detail!
Great work!


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## nstaln (Feb 11, 2009)

EcoRS said:


> Good to see Audiomobile is back - I was running a single Mass 2012 back in the day and hit 143.0 in a DB Drag competition in San Diego in a 2000 Mercury Cougar--way before the mics were revamped and became more difficult to score 140+ (at that time, est: 2001ish).
> 
> Matt Overpeck was the main dude then and ultimately ran them the company into the ground for numerous reasons. Hopefully he's matured over the years and learned some business savvy, as his products were top notch then.


Where a'bouts in SD are you from? I grew up in Poway (Northern county by Rancho Bernardo and Escondido). I still have family out there.


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

Great work, love your attention to details.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

1FinalInstall said:


> Great work, love your attention to details.


Thanks. As I posted in your thread, I don't know how you do it so fast. Takes me forever.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Covered the back of the cab with 2-3 layers of Noico.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I heat it up to about 120f. Makes it much stickier.


The roller works ok, but a pair of welding gloves give me better control and I can really push down on the Noico making full contact. 




Sharpened up and old router guide as a punch.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Next, the Noico gets a light coat of 3M 90 in preparation for the next layer.






This is an excellent product. Incredible sound absorption. very similar to the soft layer on the Stinger Ultimate Roadkill. Very sticky and adheres to itself perfectly. I use it as the substrate for the carpet, and to level out the uneven areas. 



Looks like they have a new version.
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-waterp...?ie=UTF8&qid=1509158060&sr=8-6&keywords=noico


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Done, with a quick spray of 90 in preparation for the carpet. Here you can see how the Noico foam was used to bring the area flat. 




Carpet!


Sub!


Amps!


Getting close. Thanks for watching.


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

OCD66 said:


> Thanks. As I posted in your thread, I don't know how you do it so fast. Takes me forever.


Nothing I do is fast, I might just post a bunch at one time. Love the updated pics, your work is awesome!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

1FinalInstall said:


> Nothing I do is fast, I might just post a bunch at one time. Love the updated pics, your work is awesome!


Yep, posting takes time. Been a while since I did a build thread. Hopefully somebody can pick up a trick or two. That's how I learned. 

Here's a good one.

Going through sheet-metal to the outside, I always put a little bead of seam sealer on the nutsert.


https://www.amazon.com/3M-08302-Ult...&qid=1509166180&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+seam+08302

All threads get covered with this. Another excellent product. A thin layer will keep water away for a long time. 


This is the waxy seam sealer you see on German cars between the panels. 

Two stainless fender washers with 2mm neoprene gasket. Gasket sealed with the 712AM.


Back side of cab. Box hardware.


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## strong*I*bumpin (Oct 3, 2005)

It just belongs,excellent install so far.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

strong*I*bumpin said:


> It just belongs,excellent install so far.


Ha Ha. **** ya. It does belong. Here's what it's in.


This little sub kicks ass. I'm barely into the gain and this thing is solid. Hard, tight bass. Everything from the Eagles to Phantogram's distorted bass. No problem. 

Final measurements of the box are .52 cubic feet. Take into account the Stinger Ultimate Roadkill and I would call it .5

The difference between the raw box and lined with the Stinger was unreal. Definitely no need for polyfill.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Couple pics of the final install. Got lucky and it's damn near perfect. There's about 1/2" clearance to the seats.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

The GB60s and GB15s.


We're finally going to get some rain on Saturday. In the shop all day. My goal is to learn how to use this.


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## chithead (Mar 19, 2008)

That is awesome! Great installation, good to hear a review of the EVO sub, and also more props to the Frogman!!!


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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Great to see you install on a regular cab pickup I'll be referencing the thread later.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

knever3 said:


> Great to see you install on a regular cab pickup I'll be referencing the thread later.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


Cool. That's why I take the time to do a build thread. If someone learns one trick, it's worth it.


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## nadams5755 (Jun 8, 2012)

i'm not far from you, i'd love to hear/see both your builds.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Had an inquiry about the T/S Parameters. Here they are.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Forged Carbon.






Back side.


Part is done. Trim next.


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## Bushwacker (Dec 23, 2017)

What's the carbon fiber for?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

Id like to know what shop this is or if you just do this at home


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## Blu_Z06 (Jan 5, 2019)

Impressive work. Thanks for Sharing!


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## DCB305 (Feb 5, 2017)

OCD66 said:


> Had an inquiry about the T/S Parameters. Here they are.


Would you happen to have any info on a 12” version of that sub?

Nice build btw...love the detail!


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

DCB305 said:


> Would you happen to have any info on a 12” version of that sub?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build btw...love the detail!


I have not seen a 12 in the evo version. I even have the booklet here amd theres only 8s and 10s

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## 1FinalInstall (Oct 13, 2013)

I love the look of that forged carbon!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Bushwacker said:


> What's the carbon fiber for?
> Satellite radio.
> 
> 
> ...





ToNasty said:


> Id like to know what shop this is or if you just do this at home


It's all DIY at home. 



Blu_Z06 said:


> Impressive work. Thanks for Sharing!


No problem. Hopefully I can show some techniques that help people fab and work with composites.



1FinalInstall said:


> I love the look of that forged carbon!


I do too. Looking forward to your new build.
First run I messed up the weave. I have a hard time infusing 4x4 without voids so I tried a wet lay with vacuum. No good.


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## ToNasty (Jan 23, 2013)

OCD66 said:


> It's all DIY at home.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you're that good i may have some work on my truck ill need you to do

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

ToNasty said:


> If you're that good i may have some work on my truck ill need you to do
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Follow along and I'll show you how.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Cardboard pattern



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U7U9Q9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-5019-St...keywords=olfa&qid=1550895952&s=gateway&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F6CMWO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4" ABS. I sand everything with 180 before cutting


Layout using a carbide scribe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYZVJJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

ABS cut


Clamp my left and right pieces together so they are the same


I temporarily tack the pieces together with hot glue


This is basically the part. I'll add 3 more pieces to make it easier to lay up.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Killer epoxy. This one has about a 3 minute working time. Cured in about 10 minutes






Pour some rubbing alcohol on the hot glue and it pops right out


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Added some filler and blocked all the faces flat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNGT78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4" roundover


Epoxied the inside and added a brace


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## speakerpimp (Feb 15, 2012)

Super clean work, thanks for sharing!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

speakerpimp said:


> Super clean work, thanks for sharing!


Right on! That's what it's all about.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

So, up to this point, what I've been making is the "model". This will be used to make the "tool", (mold). The model needs to be sealed with something that the tooling gelcoat will not attack. 2K clear will not work. Rattle can will not work. What I have found that works best is urethane primer. 
This is what I used


You can also use this. Around $50 for the kit. 




I cover a board with wax paper and lay about 7 coats on the model


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

The 3M guide coat shows everything. I use it on wood, filler, and primer. 

https://www.amazon.com/3M-05861-Gui...ocphy=9032139&hvtargid=pla-406825123634&psc=1

Blocking with 500 wet


Get everything flat and round the edges last. This pic shows how different the radius is on the edges. Sand, guide coat, sand, guide coat...



Japan. Excellent product 600, 800, 100,1200,1500

https://eagleabrasives.com/en/info/assilex

Finish with 3M Trizact 3000


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## TheLex (Jan 25, 2019)

Oh man. Those are mad skills! Amazing work!!!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

TheLex said:


> Oh man. Those are mad skills! Amazing work!!!


Thanks! Gonna try and dump all the good pics tonight. Tomorrow will be the install.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Sanded to 3000


Polish




Blue for the compound
https://www.amazon.com/Rupes-inch-B...rupes+3+pads&qid=1550906025&s=gateway&sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/Zephir-Gloss...ds=rupes+blue&qid=1550906080&s=gateway&sr=8-5


Yellow for the polish
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-King-...rupes+yellow&qid=1550906141&s=gateway&sr=8-26
https://www.amazon.com/Rupes-inch-Y...ow+3&qid=1550906178&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

You need a flange around the tool. I use UHMW. I attach it to a piece of MDF with double side tape




Bad Ass tape.
https://www.uscutter.com/ORABOND-13...sudxOCzudx6RItyF0SSveaEHDvzm2bmgaAjKIEALw_wcB


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

At this point we need to start the release agent system. I've been using 770NC for years. It's designed for high temp prepreg. Once the tool is seasoned, you can make multiple pulls without reapplication. Incredibly slick and has no effect on surface finish. I'll wipe the model down 10-15 times with a damp towel of 770 every few minutes. I'll also throw some Meguires #8 in the mix towards the end. The parts just pop right out with no effort. 


Time to make patterns for the laminate parts


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here's a cool trick to keep your fibers in line. Pull out one or two "tows" (strand) of carbon and it will leave a perfect trace of that part of the weave. The yellow strands down the edge are kevlar. PITA. Cut them first. 



If you cut it right, you will have one tow that pulls out evenly


Line up your fabric straight and dust it with some Airtac. Drop another layer on and the fabric will stay together and not fray.



After that you can cut out any shape and it'll stay together.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

You want a nice smooth transition to the flange, especially if you're doing anything with vacuum. A sharp edge will seal. I use non hardening modeling clay. 



I use a graphite impregnated gel coat. Not necessary, just what I had on hand. Gotta be epoxy, no ester based resins.






https://www.ptm-w.com/ptm-w-product.../high-temperature/ht-epoxy-surface-coats.html


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Cut down cheap brushes.


Your scale is a precision device. Keep it clean.


Here's all the pieces I used to make the tool.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Now is a good time to talk about "glass transition temperature". Also known as Tg. Epoxy gel coats and laminate resins are affected by Tg. Basically, if you heat a part to 125 it will remain stable to that temperature. At 126, it will start to become soft. I do a slow cure hitting 125, 150, 175, and 200. 

Tool


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Set weave straight and tape. Dust Airtac.


Add second layer.


Cut straight.


Now you can make any shaped piece and it will stay together.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Plan your laminate schedule. Once you get your epoxy mixed, the last thing you want is to have to cut material.


Going with 2 layers of 4x4 carbon, one layer of Soric, and the rest 2X2
The Soric is designed to be a core layer. The resin flows through the honeycomb and the centers are sealed. 





This piece is 3 layers on one side and 6 on the other. 5.6oz 2X2 twill. About 5/32"" thick. Easily 2-3 times stronger than the same thickness of chopped mat and polyester resin.


I use the XF.
https://lantor.com/lantor-soric/

https://www.fibreglast.com/product/lantor-soric-xf/Vacuum_Bagging_Vacuum_Infusion


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

I've used most of the common epoxies. Picked up some fresh stuff from Tap.

Medium hardener.


Setup


Wet lay.


Bagged.


Part.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Not happy with that, I decided to try the forged carbon. Not much info online. Used some old 12k tow chopped into 1/2 to 1" pieces. 


Mixed up some epoxy. I heat up a bowl of water to about 150. Set my epoxy in and let it get to 100. 70 degrees is like syrup, 100 is like milk. 





Put the tool in the oven and let it stabilize to around 100.


Mix carbon pieces into resin. 


Lay it into the tool.


I used some dry carbon to give an escape route for the air.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Model placed into the tool.



Squeeze out. More is better.


Bake to 170 for 30 minutes.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here's the final part.



The forged is pretty damn easy. A vacuum bagged part has a maximum of 14.7psi of force. Autoclave prepreg is around 100psi. I'm guessing I had over 500 with my compression clamp setup. The optimum ratio of resin to fiber is <50%. I'll trim out the piece and weigh it later.

Thanks for watching.


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## Bushwacker (Dec 23, 2017)

The first one looks good to me in the picture, the forged looks like old school bowlingball, nice work and thanks for taking the time to post the process, I may try it if I do I'll definitely have questions

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## GreatLaBroski (Jan 20, 2018)

I’m loving the forged carbon, amazing work


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Bushwacker said:


> The first one looks good to me in the picture, the forged looks like old school bowlingball, nice work and thanks for taking the time to post the process, I may try it if I do I'll definitely have questions
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


Yeah, it's definitely not your normal carbon, but it is the future. Typical weaved carbon has to be laid up in layers. One layer is about .020. It takes a lot of layers and labor. Forged is a composite paste. Make it as thick as you want. Almost zero labor in layup. Even after my little experiment, I can say that the labor is 1/10. 

Here's a door on a Lexus LC. 


The decklid is also made the same way. 

My parents Prius prime hatch is the same carbon. 





GreatLaBroski said:


> I’m loving the forged carbon, amazing work


Thanks!


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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

OCD66

Thanks for sharing this - you definitely have some serious skills!

The Carbon Fiber/Forged tutorial part of this thread really deserves to be separated and made into a "Sticky". 

IMO it's too valuable to be tucked into a subwoofer thread, where it may not be as readily viewed.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Blu said:


> OCD66
> 
> Thanks for sharing this - you definitely have some serious skills!
> 
> ...


Thanks. I take a lot of pics and just decided to continue the build thread. 

I could do a dedicated thread just on composites where people share their tips and tricks.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Vinyl plotter used to lay out cut




Finished out at 36 grams. Incredibly strong


Back


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## Blu (Nov 3, 2008)

OCD66 said:


> I could do a dedicated thread just on composites where people share their tips and tricks.


I think that would be awesome 

Finished piece looks great :thumbsup:


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here's the old system. Satellite radio and phone controlled by a TWK-88.


Laying out the cut.




Anybody need a TWK-88?


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Part of composites is to check your work. I cleaned up a piece cut from the laminate. 1.3"




.1550" thick


Back side


The cross section is where you check for full compaction. Zero voids is your goal. 



On the next piece I'll use a smaller fiber and weigh it along with the resin. The goal is <50% resin content. This one was 12k fiber.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Here's the completed dash panel install. 


I'm really happy with the DEH-80PRS. Previously I was running a TWK88. I really like to be able to tune on the fly and get it dialed without having to hook up the laptop. It's one thing making it perfect in the shop and another with road noise. T/A, set the levels, and EQ. Simple, I love it. This is a driver and 90% of my tunes are satellite. Doors are rock solid. Floor is dampened as much as I can. The next step is to take out the factory bow based headliner and deaden the top of the cab. Looking for recommendations on that. 

The dash panel has 2 usb ports bonded in. One goes to the 80prs, the other is just a power port. 

The pocket at the top holds my phone. 7+. Full carbon, felt lined. Slightly tilted down. Tested through the Rubicon. Holds it just fine. 


I run a JL HD-RLC for the sub just to the left of volume. I feel that sub input needs to be variable. 

My first shot at tig brazing. 



https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-St...paint+seymour&qid=1559710272&s=gateway&sr=8-1


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

When working with carbon cloth, the first thing is to establish a straight edge. Start by pulling a "tow' of fiber from the edge. I use a quality needle nose plier.


















Cut on the "line" and you'll have a straight start.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Now you have a parallel piece of carbon.









Straighten the weave.









Here's the trick. Lightly dust your carbon with Airtac. Have a second piece prepped the same way. Lay the secondary piece on the first. This will hold everything together. Now you can cut and place your composite layer straight and true.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

On this project, we're going to be working with 6k twill weave and some 12k flat plain weave.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Plate glass.









Here's the release agents I use. The 770NC is typically used for high heat prepreg tooling and has a perfect surface finish. This is what will be used. The Meguiers #8 is also a great release but cannot handle over 200f.









I've used plenty of epoxies. This one has good clarity, workable pot life, strength, and easily attainable.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

I cover my work area with plastic release film.








Glass taped off and composite staged up.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Back up the 2 layers of 12k with 2 more of 6k twill.









At this point I cover the entire layup in 3mil polyethylene, treated with 770NC.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Now to compress. Couple pieces of mdf to spread the load.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Pull the poly. 









Clean and easy.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Done.


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## ejeffrey (Oct 8, 2015)

Looks good, really cool to see the process and materials. I'd love to see some of the work you've done in the near future and compare notes. I'm just down the road from you in Cambrian.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

E. Sounds good. I'm down there all the time.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

OCD66 said:


> Now is a good time to talk about "glass transition temperature". Also known as Tg. Epoxy gel coats and laminate resins are affected by Tg. Basically, if you heat a part to 125 it will remain stable to that temperature. At 126, it will start to become soft. I do a slow cure hitting 125, 150, 175, and 200.
> 
> Tool


So wait. If you're laying carbon fiber and you heat it to like 200 degrees while it's curing. It'll be stable until 201? Won't that make it cure faster

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Of course it will cure faster. The point is the "final" temp it reaches. This can be done during the curing stage or post cured.


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## Jscoyne2 (Oct 29, 2014)

OCD66 said:


> Of course it will cure faster. The point is the "final" temp it reaches. This can be done during the curing stage or post cured.


Well I was always thinking of making some carbon fiber skinned fenders n stuff. Was worried about it getting soft in the sun. Will it just get soft on a really hot day and then never get soft until a day hotter?

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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

I need forged carbon fiber apillar pods!!! this all should be sticky!! phenomenal work here !!!!


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Thanks!

On with the build.
New carbon plate cut and ready to be bonded to the old panel.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Transfer tape (masking) added to the surface. Scuffed up ready for epoxy.


Taped up and necessary cutouts filled with hot glue. Thin coat of epoxy ready for new plate.


I attached a backer to hold the thin carbon plate flat.


Prep for the bond.


Jigged up and tape clamped.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)

Pulling the transfer tape.



Fresh canvas to work with. 


Little ipa and the hot glue plugs pop right out.


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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)




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## OCD66 (Apr 2, 2017)




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## knever3 (Mar 9, 2009)

Where has this gone? Fantastic work, I forgot I posted 5 years ago as well!!


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