# Roll on ound deadening or spray on Sound deadening?



## johnya84 (Nov 24, 2007)

Which one should I use? 

Ive narrowed my choices to eDead spray and eDead deadening v1. Raamat and second skin is out of my budget. 

My pros for edead spray is that is looks clean and fast to apply. My con for it is that I need a compressor that has a moisture filter and it will be hard to spray in tight openings. 

My pro for edead v1 is that its the standard deaden thats about it i guess. Then my con for is that it takes a long time and I have to cut it all the time...

And I dont really know the comparsion between the both of them?

So let me know please....


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## captainobvious (Mar 11, 2006)

Also consider these options:
-Second skin spectrum
-Fatmat- not as good quality, so you may have to double up in troublesome areas
-Also check out this thread and consider using some closed cell foam to layer over either the mat, or the liquid you put down.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38632


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## JeremyC (Dec 20, 2007)

johnya84 said:


> My pros for edead spray is that is looks clean and fast to apply. My con for it is that I need a compressor that has a moisture filter and it will be hard to spray in tight openings.


Swing by your local part store, and pick up about 12 to 18 inches of rubber house with the same inside diamater as the tube on your spray gun. It works great to get into hard to reach places.


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## JKrepps (Feb 27, 2008)

If you do it right, spraying will probably take just as long to apply as mat will to roll. The difference is that while you can strip your car and (depending on how much cleaning/degrease is needed) start applying it immediately, with the spray you also need to take plenty of time to mask everything off that you do not want sprayed, then add in dry time for multiple layers, and cure time before you place your materials back in.

One note is that if a compressor is out of your budget you CAN roll on the liquid products, which can work better depending on the situation and requires less masking.

I, personally, would recommend using both. Your car will provide you with plenty of opportunities where each one will be the ideal option, and you can save yourself a lot of headaches (ie.. use liquid on all of those tight spots and oddly shaped spots where the structure is rigid already and won't need thick layers anyway, and mat on the BIG open areas that will need minimum cutting and molding to fit curves and bends in the metal).

Also, listen to Captainobvious. Plan on putting some mat down over the deadener. It makes a very noticeable difference since the two types of dampener will affect different frequencies/types of sound.

Hope this helps,


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

Be aware that several members here have had adhesive failures with eDead v1². This is a consequence of weak adhesive and a facing Mylar with a very strong inherent curl. People have started to report similar problems with v1SE², so that formula must have changed.

eDead liquid has a much higher water content than competing products. Since the water evaporates after you apply it, the only thing you are interested is how much cured material you end up with from the stuff. By this metric, eDead is no less expensive than the products you have ruled out.

I would strongly recommend that you NOT consider FatMat or any asphalt product. It is a very ineffective vibration damper and failures are almost certain. People will claim that it worked for them and it may, for awhile, but time is your enemy. Look around for people who have had success after 2 or 3 years and the number starts to approach zero.

The best advice for economy is to buy better products and use less of them. Since they are much better performers, you will get similar results with less effort and no risk.


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## johnya84 (Nov 24, 2007)

Rudeboy said:


> Be aware that several members here have had adhesive failures with eDead v1². This is a consequence of weak adhesive and a facing Mylar with a very strong inherent curl. People have started to report similar problems with v1SE², so that formula must have changed.
> 
> eDead liquid has a much higher water content than competing products. Since the water evaporates after you apply it, the only thing you are interested is how much cured material you end up with from the stuff. By this metric, eDead is no less expensive than the products you have ruled out.
> 
> ...



Yeah, I was also looking at that also, a lot of member don't use eD as a primary deadner they use raamat, second skin or dynamat. So something is probably wrong with eD products. What products contain asphalt?


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## MeathooK (May 25, 2008)

Raamat or Second Skin FTW!!


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

doing things cheap never works out well, you know that. if your keeping the car for a couple years do it right.

second skin sludge gets my vote, its like peanut butter, gloves on, smear it all over everything, couple days to dry= your done, whole car 3 hours.

matt takes forever.snip snip stick, snip snip stickx eleventybillion= days.

imo.


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## Rudeboy (Oct 16, 2005)

johnya84 said:


> Yeah, I was also looking at that also, a lot of member don't use eD as a primary deadner they use raamat, second skin or dynamat. So something is probably wrong with eD products. What products contain asphalt?


FatMat, B-Quiet Extreme, Dynamat Original, R-Blox, Sound Destroyer - pretty much all of the eBay-only brands, regardless of what they claim and of course, Peel & Seal.


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## johnya84 (Nov 24, 2007)

60ndown said:


> doing things cheap never works out well, you know that. if your keeping the car for a couple years do it right.
> 
> second skin sludge gets my vote, its like peanut butter, gloves on, smear it all over everything, couple days to dry= your done, whole car 3 hours.
> 
> ...


so im guessing you have second skin sludge in your car? And did you apply any other deadner in your car?


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