# Dayton reference debucking guide



## npdang

Courtesy of Mark Nickel.

Hi guys. I experienced and learned a little with removing the bucking magnet on the new Dayton reference line. This is a guide on what to and what not to do.


Stage 1- first try (More work, "what not to do")
For the first driver i made it harder than it had to be.
I thought the black shield would have been glued on quite alot. I taped a line around the top part of the shield, then protected the speaker with a towel and duct tape. Then i cut off the top part of the shield with a grinder. The piece then sucked right to the magnet. Took me a while to get it off. But what also happend is the glue broke loose at the top where it meets the basket. The entire shield then came off.
Here are some pics of what happened for the first one.

Speaker Before:









Taped edge:









Cutting the shield:










Stage 1 second try: Easy as pie
Okay, so after cutting the first one, i found the glue on the shield is not that strong at all. Give the shield several wacks with the hammer. Suggested hammering places: Directly on the bottom going down, from the side close to the bottom. Basically all around trying to break the glue loose.

Hit here:









So after a few wacks in the right place you'll notice the glue break loose a bit, then simply give the shield a couple tugs, maybe stick something in the hole and pry a bit, but nothing that will break the thing.
I got it off in about 30 seconds after hammering for a minute or so...and not full out hammering that will wreck anything.
heres the pics from this stage:











Stage 2:
do not cut the magnet at all...nothing will cut it... fairly hard.
All that is required is a bigish chissle and a hammer.
Hit like this: place the metal base on an edge, not the magnet as you don't want the chip the motor magnet. Place chissle at base of bucking magnet.










It looks like the thing is glued down like a mother, but the glue only goes on the edge. Give it a few SOLID wacks and it should break off no problem.
here's picks of the end result:

First speaker:








(note: i tried cutting what whatnot first, probably why it didnt' all come off in one piece. I'm sure this last bit would come off no problem)

Second speaker:








Beautiful

Now all that's left is to take the sticker off the shield and put it on the magnet...don't forget to black out the S which stands for shielding









And here's some more pics of new unshielded Dayton Ref:

















BTW, the new dimensions are as follows:

Depth: 2 7/8" to the bottom of the flange
Width at base: 3 7/8"

That makes this thing much easier to fit in most cars...a lot smaller than my CSS drivers (Basket/Motor same as a koda)

Hope this helps some of you.


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## capslock

I have an easier trick to offer: use your stove.

Wrap the basket in aluminum foil. Place the driver's back side on an electric stove (Ceran, plain steel or induction should work fine). Apply full power (setting 9, usually) for maybe half a minute. Turn down to maybe 5 (on my stove, this means the heater is time modulated, going fully on for a few seconds every half minute). Let it sit for about 2 minutes (enough for the heat to travel to the glue joint but not to the spider).

But lower side of bucking cup in vise and pull on basket. If it does not come off, let cool completely and then use longer heating time (5 min?). The bucking magnet can be removed as whole in the same way.

I did this on an Audax AM170G8, and as I had heated for about 10 min., the bucking magnet came off without reheating. Looking at your pics, the Dayton seems to use even less glue, and probably Epoxy or even PVA based glue.


I have even used this technique to successfully remove the back plate including phase plug (on a Peerless HDS) without damaging the VC.

The temperature can be "adjusted" by the soak time on the heater. Most European drivers manufactured until the late 90s use PU or CA glue which needs about 200°C and is a bit smelly. Newer drivers use Epoxy or even water based stuff, which softens below. Chinese and Taiwanese drivers still use nasty stuff, so I am surprised the Dayton seems to use more harmless glues.


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## MIAaron

I debucked some 125's last night. I don't see how it could get much easier. The only issue I had was that one of the magnets sheered where the glue was. It left a sliver of magnet, similar to what is seen in the "sticker" pic above. But after a few hits with the chisel, it was gone as well. Thx for the pics!


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## audiowave

what is the intended purpose of the magnet that is being removed? what changes does this have to the performance of the driver being modified?

I know that with neodymium heat kills the magnet strength, does it apply to these mags as well


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## MIAaron

It's for sheilding the magnetic field, so that you can place it near tv's and such.


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## Guest

Um,

forgive me for the dumb question, but why is it rear vented - with a phase plug? Or is that an access hole for the (screwed in) plug? Is there ventilation under the spider that I just can't see? Should I just buy one and shut the hell up  ?


cheers,

AJ


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## capslock

- Heat: you will demagnetize most ferrites only above 400°C, which is why you shouldn't leave your driver on the stove for more than a couple of minutes.

- Venting: the spiders are unvented

- Hole: Maybe they use the same iron parts for a different driver that has a dustcap?


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## capslock

Adding a bucking magnet will usually increase the Bxl by about 1-5%. Adding the cup will return it nearly to its original value. So removing both shouldn't make much of a difference.


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## newtitan

im about to try this tonight

when taking the magnet off (with the chisel)

how do you brace the rest of the driver? and also what are the WHAT NOT TO DO's so the cone or coil is not shifted

something about wacking my driver has me concerned lol as I read somewhere that the glue is tronger??


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## racerraul

If I may bring some details to everyones attention...

i have debucked an RS125, RS150 & RS180. In the process I have learned that the glue is only applied to the bottom of the magnets, so...

In this picture...









It tells you to hit the shield near the top of the basket... This I believe could be the cause of the fatalities reported (just a guess).

I have had great success just hitting the bottom side\edge of the shield (with a plastic mallet) all the way around until it breaks the bond of the glue. You'll know because it will be an audible difference.

Good Luck


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## MIAaron

lol, I just came here to post the exact same thing. I just use 3-4 firm hits with a ball pein hammer. And just so people realize, the cup stays on due to the magnet, so don't keep hammering away expecting it to pop off.

Also, I've had a lot more success getting the magnet to pop by having the speaker on an approx 60 degree angle, and the chisle verticle. I also have someone else hold the speaker while I hammer the chisle. 

And wear safety glasses. The magnets like to sheer, and due to the magnetic forces the shrapnel flies off in funky directions. I had a friend holding the 8" and half the magnet sheered and flew UP into his forehead. It's very sharp, and gave him a pretty good cut.

Edit:
Be sure to support the driver by the back plate. If the lip on the frame, or the magnet, is taking the load you have a much higher chance of shifting the assembly.


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## cam2Xrunner

HAHA I just realized that the 8's in this tutorial are the one's I just bought off crash813 who bought them off MtNickel


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## newtitan

thx guys for the help


ill report back tonight


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## cam2Xrunner

Hopefully this  doesn't happen. *Knocks on wood. 

Shoot, pic's not up anymore.


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## newtitan

wow much easier than I thought took five minutes lol

I was all scared 

only thing different I did was hit the cover right at the botton edges all around the cirle with a hammer, then took a screw driver inside the hole to wedge it out and it came right off--you have to pull a bit as the lower magnet holds it down a little

as far as the lower magnet , took a masonry chisel 3/4"--wide mouth but very sharp edge--wedged it in one spotat a 40 degree angle hit it maybe three times, and the entire magnet came off in one peice

maybe they are using less glue after all

THX GUYS FOR TH HEADS UP!!!


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## cam2Xrunner

^So are you using the 8"s? Have you got a chance to listen to them yet? What kind of power are you going to be sending them?


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## newtitan

yeah im sticking with the 8" for now, dayton tweets in the pillars

Will see how it works out--I knwo one thing they sound nice off the hoem receiver, the black cone look way better in person IMO

suprised they are so cheap, they be running off 250w as I have a 8 ohm to 4 ohm veritas accumatch transformer I picked up 

not sure how they chage the actual dynamics of the sound (the transformers), but figured I could at least try them


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## IceWaLL

i just had to reply to this.

i tried hammering my dayton 7" to the point where the shield was looking mangled. i tried a rubber hammer all the way to a 48 oz sledge! nothing would break the glue.

so it tried twice to heat the driver with no success UNTIL!

I tried doing what he said exactly: heat for 30 seconds at a time full setting. i tried 8 minutes. and stuck it in the vice HARD.... it popped off easy as pie!


thanks to whoever suggested it. couldnt be happier.


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## IceWaLL

id also like to mention that i used a regular stove and the second one took almost 13 minutes to soften the glue.

it was much easier and safer on the speaker then hammering it. plus if you do it quick enough it helps in removing the bottom magnet too!


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## chad

Get 'er DUN!

Stoves work well for large heat-shrink too 

Chad


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## bfrance

Yep, I used the heating method last night to get the back cover off my 180's too. Still haven't got the bottom magnet off yet, but the cover plate came of surprisingly easy this way. Magnets will be tomorrow night's project.

-Ben


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## IceWaLL

you can either heat the magnets off or chisle them.

i chose to chisle and they came off pretty easy, and only one left a little sliver.


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## robbyho

i just debucked 4 of them. from reading this thread i thought it would be a lot easier. i couldn't get the cups off by just hammering. i heated it up on medium heat for about 5 minutes and then i banged the cup with a hammer to break the glue. i did the same for the magnet, but since i don't have a vice or a chisel it was a bit messier than it could have been. looking back at the project it was pretty easy, but at the time i didn't think i was going to be able to do it. all turned out well tho. these speakers look great.
thanks for all the ideas.

rob


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## MIAaron

I will say this, get a friend to help. 2 pairs of hands makes light work of this.

Also, I don't know if they changed the glue, but the rs180's I just picked up are a bit more difficult.


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## zalgoh

This was going to be the fourth Dayton that I have debucked and then the entire backplate and voicecoil came off. I heated it up on the stove as I did the other three and hit if with a hammer in the direction it comes off. The glue is very firm and the same glue holds all the componenets together, magnet, backing plate, bucking magnet, shield. I'll try again on a fifth Dayton.


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## newtitan

WOW

first of man there is no glue that high (looking at your hammer contact points from the pic)

all you need to do it hit all around the bottom EDGE of the metal backing (make a circle with your hammer) and it will pull off by hand

turn it over in your hand so your looking at the bottom, and then just tape the edge in a circle

guess you cant return that one huh WOW

seems like theheating method is not the best idea???

cant believe the entire voice coil came out too?


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## OgreDave

Yikes


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## bfrance

Wow, that sucks man! FYI, after heating, I didn't have to hammer at all. All I did was heat it, then use a flat-blade screw driver wedged through the hole in the back plate and pryed it up.

-Ben


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## geoffire

After debucking one of my daytons the cone was froze. a close look showed the phase plug off center pressed into the voice coil jamming it in place. today I tried beating on it with a dead blow to knock it back on center. It worked (without too much force either I must add), it was hard to get it just right, but eventually I got it and the driver sounds fine.

Its kind of distressing how easily the motor moves around, but don't toss your daytons if the same thing happens to you!

-Jeff


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## Sephiroth619

God damn it. I just tore off a small chunk of magnet with a screw driver. I can't seem to get the bottom madnet off.


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## Sephiroth619

I got the shield off okay. I think getting the bottom magnet off is going to be impossible. I don't have a chisel. I've been trying to hammer it off with a screw driver, nothing.


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## geoffire

I used a big screw driver and a sledge. I chipped a little off the main magnet too, but I doubt it has any real effect as long as its not a big chunk. I think removing all the shielding magnet is impossible, its glued on there way too strong - I sheared most of it off and it cleared the glass, so I left it at that...


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## capslock

zalgoh said:


> This was going to be the fourth Dayton that I have debucked and then the entire backplate and voicecoil came off. I heated it up on the stove as I did the other three and hit if with a hammer in the direction it comes off. The glue is very firm and the same glue holds all the componenets together, magnet, backing plate, bucking magnet, shield. I'll try again on a fifth Dayton.



Yes, if you heat for too long, the heat travels up and softens the other glue joints, too. Also, as somebody pointed out, hitting the shield too far up will exert a torque force that stresses the motor more than the shield.

The copper thing you see is not the voice coil but the lower shorting ring. It sits inside the VC on the stem of the pole piece in Scan Speak and Excel drivers, and on the outside of the VC in Peerless drivers.

Can you post some more pictures of the pole piece itself? It love to see if it is undercut or not.

Regards,

Eric


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## hocuz77

I don't thing heating it up is a good idea.... I had the stove on medium and timed it for like 3 mins. Sure the shield come off easy but the it also heats up the motor housing causing it to shift freezing your cone. I manged to shift it back into place and get the cone moving again but it looks like crap and I think iot will effect performance too. I think the best way is to pound the crap out of the shield...Be very careful just to hit the edges on the bottom. HEating might work for some people but I thing hammering is the way to go. As for the fist pic on this thread with the arrows, follow the bottom arrows only. Hitting it at the top will or in the middle will pinch the housing to the magnet...thats a bad idea. Hit it with a downward motion and you really have to hit...don't be afraid. I messed one of mine up by heating it so I practiced on it and I found out that if you follow what I said you should be alright. Just wanted to post this so I could help any new guys out. Now I have to order another dayton and I get raped on shipping cause I am in Hawaii. GOOD LUCK


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## OgreDave

Spend 100+ until end of the year and get free shipping .. does that apply to HI?


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## banginheep

well it tryed the hammering methed and my hole fu$%%$# magnet broke lose with the shield still atatched  i dont know what happend i was hitting it on the very bottom and on the bottom of the sides  and it still shifted now i can shift the hole thing just with my hand  you can see were i was hitting it in the pics


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## banginheep

well i got the back plate free from the shield, and stuck it back on but i cant get it centered, theres no way. you give it alittle tap to one side and it just shifts and sticks on that other side  . im thinking glue, glue the back plate back on wait till it gets super tacky and then try and center it, do you guys think that will work? if that will work what kind of glue should i use?


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## nothing13

I had a similar problem, you could try this:

Lay the mid backplate-down on a table. Use a screwdriver and hammer and slightly tap the backplate where needed to get it centered. I found it easiest when i could look at the pole-piece as reference. It takes some time, but you'll get it. It will hold its position at rest.

I ran a bead of gorrilla glue around the edge of the backplate, and i expect that to hold well enough. I have not had the drivers in-car yet, but the cone moves freely and i noticed no problems after a brief check free-air off the home stereo.

Keep us updated on your progress.


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## banginheep

ok i dont know how you guys are doing this but my 2nd one is f'ed up now [email protected]##[email protected]@$!. and i wasent even hitting the sides!!!, it got screewed up just from hitting the bottom!! . its like the mother fu#$*)@ backplate isent even glued on i can take it and move it around by hand  wtf. theres 60+ buxes down the drain it may not seam bad but im a fuc#&@! poor ass and now im stuck with to shot speakers [email protected]#[email protected]!#@#[email protected]   !!


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## SQ_Bronco

Yeah, I killed one too (the only one I tried to debuck). So it isn't as easy as everyone makes it out to be. An autopsy showed that the bottom is glued like crazy now, so maybe dayton QC caught up with the fact that the shields were too easy to get off and forced usher or whoever makes the drivers to start gluing them more to spec? There was definitely a lot more glue between the shield and the bucking magnet than there was between the frame and the magnet. 

I'm really not that impressed with the overall build quality of the drivers either- they sound great, as long as they are crossed really low, but really have that "cut corners for cost" feel to them. Maybe I'm just not used to metal coned drivers but I expected more from all the rave reviews.


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## OgreDave

Bronco, did you get a 6 or a 7in? I heard the 6's look like crap but my 7's are pretty nice for $32.


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## SQ_Bronco

I bought 4 RS180's for my HT and a pair of rs270's to try as midbass in my bronco. 

Anyway I didn't say they look like crap. I actually really like the way they look, once mounted, especially the 270's, and double especially for the price. Although the anodized cone is not dyed as deeply black as i would have hoped. They just aren't as sturdily built as I expected, given the reviews. I am disappointed by how easily the cone deforms, by the globs of glue in strange places on the back of the cone and the poor quality of the glue used, by the way the voice coil is attached (apparently glued) to the cone with a ~1/8" overlap, and by the way the magnet was attached to the frame with glue + 4 cast iron pins. These pins are clearly inadequate and seem to be what are failing in shear when people hit the speakers with a hammer or in my case drop them, causing the voice coil misalignments.


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## OgreDave

10K2HVN, 95Legend, and Technobug have seen my 7's. No excess glue anywhere. I'll try to take pics later but I've worked a 10hr day and I'm near passing out already.


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## SQ_Bronco

Yeah, I've had a long day too... I can tell that crankiness is getting the best of me. I'm going to modify the "strange places" comment because upon closer inspection it is actually on the inside of the voice coil former/cone attach point which is a reasonable place for glue to be. however it is still very unevenly applied. I couldn't get a picture of it to come out but there is ~1" where there is no glue and then glue the rest of the way around in a thin strip that is 100% on the voice coil former in some places, 100% on the cone in others, and in some places actually gluing the two together.

Here are some pictures of what I meant by "different amounts of glue on the shield/magnet compared to what was earlier posted". It is very heavily gooped on the shield/bucking magnet attachment point, and very thinly and unevenly applied to the frame/motor magnet. You can also clearly see the holes for the alignment pins i was talking about- if they had used brass or steel bolts through the magnet into these, they would be much more effective than glue alone.


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## SQ_Bronco

I don't mean to diss dayton or parts express or these drivers- I spend more money at parts express each month than I do on food, and I really do think they are some of the best values out there for the money and some fine speakers regardless of cost. If you search here and ECA I was one of, if not THE, first people to recommend them and their cousins, and still do very highly. I just don't recommend you hit them witha hammer, drop them, or touch the cones with long fingernails.

The main point of this whole thing was to try to explain why some people have problems getting the bucking magnets and shields to come off of the drivers...


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## banginheep

well i got one of them fixed and it plays. but one doesent work any more  its not locked up the cone moves freely with out rubbing, but i think i might of messed the voice coil up from having the back plate off and on  .


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## hocuz77

Yeah I just installed the 7 inch daytons and the one I messed up on is the one that works. The other dayton which the sheild came off quite easy does not work(has to be the voice coil...no resistance). Go figure. I had to order 3 more of the drivers just incase I mess up again and you know what....I live in hawaii and that free shipping crap don't apply here. I get them monday and paid 45 dollars for shipping...BAh Right now I get 2 rs tweets up front and 1 dayton on the left door. I don't know if you have to break these speakers in but they sound alright I guess. I got the Rs280 tweets and 7 inch rs. What are you guys crossing at...got mine at 1.8 k was thinking of going lower but I am scared.


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## OgreDave

I've gently beat the hell out of my Dayton 7 and the shield hasn't come off yet.

Mine's one of those that looks really good .. so it might have glue everywhere. I'm thinking about saw'n it off.


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## mtnickel

I wrote the original guide for these things. Nothing you couldn't really figure out yourself, but i guess it was requested.

ANyways, I have a set of 8" on the way, so i'll let you guys know if construction has changed. I'm a little nervous i'll break one now that i've seen the horror stories.

I may have to cut the shield off instead of beat it off. Later guys.


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## burrometer

Have any of you tried debucking the rs-125 5"?


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## MIAaron

I've debucked all of them. The 7" is the only one to give me issues. The rest went easily. I've debucked 11 of the 7" now, and had 3 failures. All of those that failed had a lot of excess glue holding the bucking magnet on. Now I just cut off the excess and havn't had any issues.


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## AzGrower

I know some of you are not fans of the 4 ohm version that coming out soon for use in car audio, but wont it be nice to finally not have to worry about "debucking" catastrophes anymore with the new autosound drivers!!!??


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## MIAaron

It would be nice, but they won't be offering all of the models.


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## AzGrower

MIAaron said:


> It would be nice, but they won't be offering all of the models.


I think one of the most popular, the RS180 will be though. And perhaps they are using this as a trial at first. I am sure once they see the great reception they will have with them, in no time they will offer the entire line...


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## mtnickel

Well i destroyed one of my RS225's.  
I think a lot of care must be taken when applying a force or hitting in any direction.
With the 8", the magnet is larger than the metal part of the basket, soooo, i attempted to just hit the magnet with the magnet resting on the table. the first one worked nicely and the magnet cracked in half and fell off. With the second, it came off but the other magnet came loose.

Not too sure what i could have done differently. Perhaps put a small block in between bucking and motor magnet so it presses against the metal frame. Then hit just the magnet.

WEll there's my input.


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## alphakenny1

i guess we won't need this sticky anymore  .


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## Slammed

That was the only thing holding me back from purchasing them before....


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## Guest

hey doods sorry to resurrect an old thread, especially since the debucking need has largely been eliminated 

... but alas, not _completely_ eliminated  Let's say someone is interested in the little 125mm (5 inch) driver, but has limited mounting room behind. Seems like the "hammer" method has been covered, as well as the "heat" method.

Let's discuss the "glue dissolving" method  Here's my thought : pour some kind of glue dissolver (acetone, paint thinner, ??) into a pan, maybe 1" deep. The depth is critical, because you want it reach the glue joint to be disolved ... but no higher. Then put the driver, cup and all, into the pan. I'm thinking that the dissolver won't be high enough to reach the top of the cup's outer perimeter, of course, but might just be able to seep into the joint through that hole in the bottom  Know what I mean?

What do you think? Any hope? If it works, it promises to be the most "gentle" technique, least likely to cause any unwanted harm. Any clue what type of dissolver would be best suited to the type of glue used?


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## dual700

Mr. Wolf,

I think that is very dangerous method...?
The fume from Acetone can weaken the glue joint else where.
And it also not good for surrounds. It actually can harden the rubber/foam.
I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure about fumes and glue joint, though..


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## Guest

dual ... if the _fumes_ alone are bad, then I agree  But of course the _fluid_ would never come in contact with anything other than the cup, magnets, and glue joint to be dissolved.

Maybe there's a "low fume" dissolving agent ?????

Heck it's gotta be worth an experiment. I just might give it a try ...


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## MIAaron

I know in paint applications the fumes can be very harmful, but I don't know about adhesive applications. The fumes can be dealt with though. For a minute I was thinking something fancy like a physical barrier, for example cutting a hole in the bottom of a bucket and slipping the bucking magnet through the hole, but IIRC the bucking magnet on the rs125 has a larger diameter than the backing plate. 



The more traditional method would be to use a small fan, or maybe even something like a shopvac, and just suck the fumes away. Just be sure to get a good airflow over the surface of the dissolver. You can easily check this with the smoke of a cigarette/cigar. Just don't get any kind of flame close to the dissolver as the majority are very flammable. The pole of the RS drivers isn't vented. You may get a small amount of vapor through the joints but I don't think it is enough to worry about.

The only problem I see with this is that you will have to be very careful with the depth of the dissolver. I think the thickness of the backplate on the rs125 is about an 1/8". Maybe if you had a thin rubber sheet(anything stretchable and non-pourous) that you could cut a small hole in and stretch over the bucking magnet to help seal it off?

Edit:
Jeff, YGM.


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## Guest

thanks for the thoughts! But I'm thinking the dissolver depth needs to attack the plate/cup, as well as the bucking magnet joint as well ... ??

hey send me an email at :

[email protected]

PM's in this forum make my computer explode


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## kappa546

werewolf said:


> hey send me an email at :
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> PM's in this forum make my computer explode


GAY! i've been patiently waiting for ur response to two of my pm's lol. can i send an email as well? cuz i'm gonna


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## Guest

kappa yes, of course ... don't know that I'll respond much quicker though


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## MIAaron

The bucking magnet is glued to the plate, and the shielding cup is glued to the bucking magnet. So a very very shallow pool is all that you would to work at the cup glue joint, but you would get a bit of vapor behind the cup. 

Very little of the force from hammering at the cup sees the speaker. I have yet to damage one from removing the cup. The damage always comes from removing the bucking magnet, and I've only had that issue with the rs180's. And to be honest, I only had one shifted assembly. The other 2 I dropped when they were being hammered and the baskets broke. :blush:

Edit:
I resent the email to the address you listed above.


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## capslock

My experience with speaker magnet glue is that solvents won't dissolve the glue, just weaken the bond slightly.

As a matter of fact, most modern non-toxic glues with the exception of epoxy will absorb some water, the fumes of which are not so much of a problem. Add some detergent.

The really adventurous could experiment with a dab of alcohol, citric acid, or sodium hydroxide (dishwasher agent). Please don't combine the acid and the hydroxide, though...


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## Guest

acid plus hydroxide .... check  Can't wait to mix them  

I'm gonna have to try this asap now. Who cares about debucking at this point ... let's have some fun with chemistry !!!


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## Thoraudio

bah... just a little salt and heat....


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## lightspeed

I just debucked a couple of HiVi B3n. wOOt!
Was it easy? NO! I cranked on the bottom edge in a vice, replace the impact of the hammer with some squishing until I heard a slight pop. Then the back came off with little effort. The magnet was a different story. Not only is the HiVi magnet and driver very small (hard to hold onto) but it is glued like a bastard. All manner of hammering and chiseling and pouding was employed.
Just to reiterate what other have said: MAN that glue stinks. WOW those pieces of magnet fly off at odd angles and extremely high speed. WOW is a magnet hard. I ended up taking the last third off with a grinder. Havent tried them yet, but I believe they should work fine. Dont really ever want to do that again.


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## Excelsior

capslock said:


> I have an easier trick to offer: use your stove.
> 
> Wrap the basket in aluminum foil. Place the driver's back side on an electric stove (Ceran, plain steel or induction should work fine). Apply full power (setting 9, usually) for maybe half a minute. Turn down to maybe 5 (on my stove, this means the heater is time modulated, going fully on for a few seconds every half minute). Let it sit for about 2 minutes (enough for the heat to travel to the glue joint but not to the spider).
> 
> But lower side of bucking cup in vise and pull on basket. If it does not come off, let cool completely and then use longer heating time (5 min?). The bucking magnet can be removed as whole in the same way.
> 
> I did this on an Audax AM170G8, and as I had heated for about 10 min., the bucking magnet came off without reheating. Looking at your pics, the Dayton seems to use even less glue, and probably Epoxy or even PVA based glue.
> 
> 
> I have even used this technique to successfully remove the back plate including phase plug (on a Peerless HDS) without damaging the VC.
> 
> The temperature can be "adjusted" by the soak time on the heater. Most European drivers manufactured until the late 90s use PU or CA glue which needs about 200°C and is a bit smelly. Newer drivers use Epoxy or even water based stuff, which softens below. Chinese and Taiwanese drivers still use nasty stuff, so I am surprised the Dayton seems to use more harmless glues.



I would not recommend that at all.. too much heat and you can permanently demagnetize the ferrite magnets or worse, permanently weaken the adhesives that attach the coil to the former

Also any type of irregular heating could easily cause "demagnetized" spots in the permanent magnet


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## cotdt

yeah removing that hivi 3BN bucking magnet is a *****. but the idea is not to heat it, but to freeze it. Freezing it makes the resinous glue very brittle and the simple shock from a hammer will shatter the glue. Freezer works fine, but supercold freezers or dry ice works even better since the colder the more brittle.


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## matdotcom2000

cotdt said:


> yeah removing that hivi 3BN bucking magnet is a *****. but the idea is not to heat it, but to freeze it. Freezing it makes the resinous glue very brittle and the simple shock from a hammer will shatter the glue. Freezer works fine, but supercold freezers or dry ice works even better since the colder the more brittle.


Are you sure this will work?


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## chad

lot of these guys are long gone.


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## alachua

chad said:


> lot of these guys are long gone.


I would disagree. The thread is 5 years old, of the 21 people in the thread with more than 100 posts, 12 of them have been logged in over the past 3 months. Not exactly a huge rate of attrition for a niche forum dedicated to a niche hobby that is shrinking as a whole and dependent on disposable income. I'm sure in that time the forum has picked up some quality members (bikinpunk signed up after the last post in this thread prior to today for example). 

Or, maybe you are onto the new craze in car audio? Are old school posters the new old school power amps? :laugh:


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## chad

bigass difference between logging in and participating


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## roseda91

Nice thread


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## rape_ape

Both heat and impact destroys magnets.


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## chad

rape_ape said:


> Both heat and impact destroys magnets.


that's why they came out with a non shielded one  YEARS AGO...

But that being said, yeah car doors.


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