# My 2010 Impreza system



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

I'll start with a baseline of my impressions of the stock system, and then add in my components and additions as they come along.

Stock in my 5-door car is the OEM Clarion 6-disc CD changer, along with the "10 speaker" system. It sounds pretty good at lower volumes, clear and fairly accurate. At higher volumes, the bass just takes over. So for highest volume listening I have to turn the bass down to -5. That is therefore where I leave it; the mid is at -3, and treble around +2. Volume goes from 0 to 40.

I have the SRS Surround/TruBass engaged. It puts more sound up in the tweeters, and it makes the bass less boomy. When it's not engaged, the bass at volume-33 or above is just a runaway train of distortion** that gets worse the higher the volume goes. But when SRS is engaged, the overall sound is pretty good.

The highest volume of this unit is not high enough. It's pretty good (tho a bit distorted) parked, but on the highway it's not even close to sufficient. And while I don't seek earbleed, I'd still like it to be capable of more. 


So the project trajectory will likely go this way:

1. Add an amp. That's already on order, the Sony Slim 4ch unit. It will be mounted in the vertical space to the left of the glovebox. It should allow me to reach slightly higher volumes with a bit less distortion.

2. Dampening/deadening/stiffening - next spring. All the speakers are in the doors. So I need those doors to introduce as little distortion as possible. The plastic vibrates at certain bass frequencies; I need to kill that.

3. New speakers. Depending on the results of the above, perhaps next spring or summer. Dunno yet whether I'll opt for the rears to be a "virtual sub" or not. We'll see how things go.

I'll likely never opt for a subwoofer as the car has demonstrated that it's bass-prone, and I would not want to impede on either the cargo area or the underseat ventilation. But we'll see how things turn out as I damp down the vibrations of the car itself.

Certainly my little project is nowhere near as complex as what some of y'all are doing. But it will be fun anyway!

**This is due in part to vibrations in the door panels. That will eventually be ameliorated by dampening & stiffening.


----------



## Bugs78 (May 14, 2010)

in for updates.. 


lots-o-pics please


----------



## ExplsvCookie257 (Aug 4, 2010)

An amp will help with the volume, some amps have wiring harness's to tap into your stock harness.


----------



## schmiddr2 (Aug 10, 2009)

Maybe someone will chime in and tell about the output FR curve. It might be that the Headunit has a built in EQ rise towards the bass side.

I would do:

(1) Buy this if it will fit: DSC450 - MB Quart 4 Ch 400 Watt Amplifier Take the $75 saved and buy a set of components.

(2) sound deadening.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Yeah, it clearly has such a rise. It's OK, I can work with it. The CD changer and aux input, along with the option of satellite radio, are gadget enough for me.


schmiddr2 said:


> Maybe someone will chime in and tell about the output FR curve. It might be that the Headunit has a built in EQ rise towards the bass side.
> 
> I would do:
> 
> ...


1. No go. My objective is to put the amp in the dash; the 15"x12" Quart is far too large. The Sony is 9"x7", and outputs 50 watts per channel. But I'm a bit annoyed.... just yesterday, SonyStyle Direct lowered the price from $200 to $120. I paid $150. Oh well.

2. That's definitely on the agenda. The first treatments, probably SDS, will be for the doors. I might even get around to that this month if I'm feeling ambitious. Else I'll wait til spring, and do everything - new speakers, deadening, noise blockage, bracing and solidifying of plastic - in one shot. That way I open up the door panels only once.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

First update: I just got a pair of Pioneer 4-way speakers as a gift. So the front door upgrades are essentially in process! In the next day or two I'll order a roll of MLV (local guy, no shipping charges), and I'll likely order the deadening tiles and CCF from SDS. So by end of November, odds are the amp install plus the front doors will be complete.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Just went and listened to the Pioneers at a local store.... they ain't too good. Heard many others, and the Polk 2-way were the most impressive under a hundred bucks that can handle the power.

So I'll be bringing the Pioneers (still NIB) to that store and getting $30 credit toward my purchase. That's cool; it'll give me time to research & order the deadeners & whatnot. And for the front speakers at least, I'll be running new speaker wire.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Update:

The more parts I get, the more I'm leaning toward a one-shot install. I ditched the Pioneers in favor of Polk DB651s. I listened to a bunch of different speakers over the past few days, and theae are the 6.5" coaxial speakers that distort least of everything I heard. There certainly could be better speakers out there, but if I can't listen to 'em I wont buy 'em.

So those will go on the back. I'm gonna purchase blank 'sails' for my Subie, and get a component speaker set for Xmas. Again, the Polks (DB6501)are the most accurate of every set I was able to listen to. So unless I hear something better for not a lot more $$$, I'll end up with all Polks.

On the deadening front, I picked up some MLV. I also emailed Don at SDS last week, and am waiting to hear back. Since the deadener goes on better when the car's earm, my install will likely wait til spring at this point. Better that way anyway - do the research, do the planning, make sure everything's ready to roll.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Another update:

I removed the center-column air ducts in order to facilitate installing LED footwell lights. Upon doing so I noticed two "hanger-holes", about six inches apart, that are currently used solely to support wires. So now I know exactly where my amp will be mounted


----------



## iommichild (Aug 24, 2010)

I have Polk DB6501s in my Impreza, and for the $, I think they sound fantastic. They're pretty clear, but don't have much bass (but of course, a sub solves that issue). My impreza is an 08, and I didn't have to do any spacers or anything to get the woofers to fit in the doors - pretty easy install.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The car itself seems bass-prone, so I have difficulty imagining the 6501s not producing enough bass to be in-balance with the music.

Is yours a 4- or 5- door? Where do you have your subwoofer?


iommichild said:


> I have Polk DB6501s in my Impreza, and for the $, I think they sound fantastic. They're pretty clear, but don't have much bass (but of course, a sub solves that issue). My impreza is an 08, and I didn't have to do any spacers or anything to get the woofers to fit in the doors - pretty easy install.


----------



## djinn (Dec 3, 2010)

Have you gave the thought of upgrading your factory HU for a aftermarket one? I noticed a huge difference in my Impreza after I upgraded to a 4200DVD from Pioneer. 

At volume 14 it was the same as volume 30+ on stock unit. I was also able to adjust the EQ and get a better reproduction of sound.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

That could happen somewhere down the line. 
But ultimately, the HU is the least important component. So I want to start where I get best bang for the buck.


djinn said:


> Have you gave the thought of upgrading your factory HU for a aftermarket one? I noticed a huge difference in my Impreza after I upgraded to a 4200DVD from Pioneer.
> 
> At volume 14 it was the same as volume 30+ on stock unit. I was also able to adjust the EQ and get a better reproduction of sound.


----------



## djinn (Dec 3, 2010)

I have on order ID CTX65CS and CTX65. So depending on where you are in NY, I could demo my car for you. 

If your around me I could let you hear what the aftermarket HU and stock speakers sound like. After I install the Image Dynamics you could listen to the car again.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The plan is evolving.

This Xmas has brought me a 20 sq ft pak of Damplifier Pro, alongwith the Polk db6501 component speaker system. So come springtime, I'm pretty much ready to roll.

But Ive been thinking :lol: For the price of the Subie Sirius module, I could get a DVD - HDradio - XM - iPod - USB head unit that puts out 15w rms per channel. I could run the back soeakers off that unit, while running the fronts off the Xplod amp.... and bridging the back channels on that amp, and using it to run the Kicker 8" square sub. It preserves my rear fill, spares me the cost of a monoblock, and gets me fully modern capability.

Hope y'all don't mind my "thinking out loud" here. It's an interesting planning process. Merry Xmas!!


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Heard another Impreza which had been modded this weekend. It had a sub, and sounded phenomenal.

I immediately went and ordered the Kicker 8". So I guess the end of my OP in this thread ("I'll likely never opt...") was wrong.


----------



## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Hey coyote, can you throw up some pics of the amp mounted in the dash


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Will do, when it happens. Springtime.



trojan fan said:


> Hey coyote, can you throw up some pics of the amp mounted in the dash


----------



## snowcruizer713 (Jan 3, 2011)

excited for an impreza project


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

At this point, this is not so much a build log as a planning log 



snowcruizer713 said:


> excited for an impreza project


But the pieces of the plan are coming together.

The Polk db6501s for the front and db651s for the rear are already in-house, as is the sound deadening material and the Sony XM4S xPlod slimline 4ch amp. I've pretty much settled on the Jensen VM9314 (retractible) or 9324 (fixed) touchscreen head unit, which plays DVDs and iPods and almost everything else. It has parametric EQ, built-in HD radio, and XM expandability. I'm not thrilled about the constant movement of the 9314 touchscreen, but I also have to account for sun glare and the pivoting screen does that while the 9324 does not.

The Jensen HU supposedly outputs 13 watts per channel RMS, 50w peak. So I'm wondering if I can't find some way to utilize that power in my build. I have to read the user manuals for the speakers. If the db6501s allow separate inputs into each side of the crossover, I could perhaps drive the front tweeters off the HU front channel speaker outs and drive the entire rear speakers off the HU rear channels. Then configure the amp as 3 channel, feeding the front channels of course to the front midbass components and the 120 watt bridged rear to the subwoofer. I'll likely LPF that at about 120hz. The sub won't be shaking pavement, but that 120 watts ought be sufficient power to balance nicely with the other components.

The rear speakers are essentially fill anyway, so the 13 watts might just do the trick. I never have rearseat passengers, and if I ever have one they'll sit behind the passenger seat. So the Kicker 8" sub will be in a very small enclosure in the rear driver-side footwell. Being right behind my seat I ought feel it as well as hear it.

Fortunately the amp, Polk speakers, and CLD tiles arrived as gifts over the holiday season thereby offsetting some of the cost. But the total price paid for this is rapidly approaching $1K. $320+ on speakers, $125 on deadener, $160 for the amp, an impending $270 on the HU and another $110 for XM. It adds up fast; my out-of-pocket costs will still run $500 or so.


----------



## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Replacing the factory HU is the #1 thing you can do to improve the sound in these new Subarus. I have a '10 WRX and after installing an Alpine CDA-117, it's already WAY better. Sound deadening, nice front comps, and a sub should round it out nicely. If you are doing a sub, I'd consider ditching the rear speakers all together. Try fading the HU all the way to the front. Even w/o a sub it sounds fine.


----------



## Miniboom (Jul 15, 2010)

I'd think twice before buying that Jensen. Picking up even a second hand Pioneer 4000/4100/4200DVD or similar seems like a better idea. 5000/5100 etc if you want a single DIN 7-inch.

Got one of those crappy DVD-players along with my car, and GODDAMN, it isn't worth the plastic the PCB is printed on.

Should be able to pick up the Pioneers for cheap, and they're pretty damn good for the price. Sounds clean too, and gives some basic EQ/x-over options.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

I've thought about it a lot. I've researched it. There are not a lot pf problem reports out there on the last couple generations of Jensen gear, and the reviews are mostly good to very good. So you say you got a Jensen with your car, and didn't like it? What specific problems did it give you?

I'm highly reluctant to purchase used.


Miniboom said:


> I'd think twice before buying that Jensen. Picking up even a second hand Pioneer 4000/4100/4200DVD or similar seems like a better idea. 5000/5100 etc if you want a single DIN 7-inch.
> 
> Got one of those crappy DVD-players along with my car, and GODDAMN, it isn't worth the plastic the PCB is printed on.
> 
> Should be able to pick up the Pioneers for cheap, and they're pretty damn good for the price. Sounds clean too, and gives some basic EQ/x-over options.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The Polks don't have multiple inputs into the crossovers. They could probably be modified to add such inputs, but I'd rather not do that. It means that if I want to utilize the power from the HU as well as the amp power, the HU ought have a crossover/HPF that affects the speaker out while NOT affecting the RCA out for that channel.

So the Jensens don't have internal crossovers/HPFs to do that. Not necessarily a dealbreaker yet, but since I'm not installing til spring I have time to research other choices. I could of course go to RadioShack and build an HPF for each of those outputs. Might be a fun little custom addition to the system.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

And the plan changes yet again  Glad I didn't rush into buying a head unit.

Wife got a new BMW 5-series on Saturday. Awesome car! And awesome sound system. It integrates GPS, DVD, bluetooth, HDradio, satellite, and everything else. So well laid-out.
Anyway, it is forcing me to re-examine what I want to do with the HU. I don't have a cellphone, but there are times the wife is with me that she'll want to use hers. So my HU ought have bluetooth. Previously, I didn't want it. Its faves list is integrated; fave 1 might be Sirius Real Jazz, while fave 2 might be 880am for news, fave 3 a local FM station, etc. I'd love to have that, but I don't see it out there in aftermarket HUs. Another great feature is that it also stores approximately 35 CDs worth of music in memory.

I still don't want nav. It's cool, but I just don't need it.

I DO want:
- Sirius rather than XM
- HD radio
- parametric EQ
- onboard hi- and lowpass filters and crossovers

And I want to maximize the available power. Whatever HU I get will be wasting 15-20 watts in the front channel speaker outs with my current anticipated layout. So I thought "Why not get a pair of 3.5" coax units and put 'em high in the doors?". They'd sit between the midbasses in the lower doors and the tweeters in the A-pillars.

It turns out very few HUs do what I seek. Maybe there'll be something new on the market in the next couple months before I'm ready to do my install. But my willingness to spend has gone up a bit


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Latest update. The plan has changed again lol

After consideration, I'm gonna put a pair of 3.5" coax in the kick panels in addition to all the other stuff. I ordered a pair of panels which I will use as the base, and build up a speaker mount. The passenger side speaker will point straight out while the driver's side will point up a bit. This is in acknowledgement that I the driver am the only listener most times. I also purchased a pair of 'sails' for the tweeters, and will do the same with them. So while I wait for spring to arrive, I can build those mounts along with the subwoofer enclosure.

As to the HU, I'm now considering the JVC touchscreen unit. It will send the total cost up by $250 or more, but I have a feeling the parametric EQ (which it turns out the Jensen does not have) will be crucial to making the car sound great. I really didn't want to spend this much, but I guess it's inevitable lol


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Another update: It was kinda nice out yesterday so I was gonna begin building my sub enclosure. I went to my PC, opened the plan, and decided I didn't like it! So instead of building, I re-designed. 

It's gonna fit behind my seat. Dimensions 13"w x 11" tall x 9" wide. The sub will fire down, and use the floor and transmission hump as a folded horn. My original plan was going to go the other way, using the door as part of the folded horn, but I figured having the rear coax firing straight at the sub would do no good sonically.

I'll post a pic of the plan as soon as I clear the SYSTEM TOOL malware from my home PC.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The Polk db351s arrived yesterday, as did the new kick panels. One of the speakers is traveling with me; I take it out at red lights and imagine the position. The passenger side housing will be built onto the new kick panel first as it is essentially straight out. The driver's side will be angled up toward me. I have the fiberglass and resin in-house, ready to roll.

In addition the front door sails arrived. I've begun working on inserting the db6501 tweeter into the drivers-side sail. It will essentially be a stealth mount, as just a few modifications allow it to fit (mostly) inside. I do want to open more of the sail grille holes; a bit of care with a dremel ought do the job.

Attached is the final (I think) visual plan for the subwoofer. 

So I'm finally beginning work!


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

FINALLY, some actual pics of the beginning of the build! Starting with the sails. I purchased a pair of tweeter housing sails from Subaru, and am putting the 6501 tweeters in them. The 6501 tweeters are larger than the Subie stock units, so of course I have to modify.

Here's the driver's side sail modified, compared to the unmodded passenger sail:











Here's the 6501 tweeter inserted, and with the shell closed:




















And a top view of the additional cut. I have yet to decide how to finish that, likely some plastic filler and modeling paint:











And here are the kick panels. The passenger side has been cut, and the db351 shown with it. Next weekend I'll begin building the fiberglass housing:


----------



## AKMetal (Mar 3, 2011)

wish you had more installation done, im in the planning stage of my 2007 impreza as well. but i can't believe you don't have a cellphone man, you could get yourself an iphone and throw your library on it and sync it with the bluetooth on that deck.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

a) me too  It's been slow due to many factors - weather, travel, etc. 

b) Cool. What are you planning specifically? 



AKMetal said:


> a) wish you had more installation done,
> 
> b) im in the planning stage of my 2007 impreza as well.
> 
> c) but i can't believe you don't have a cellphone man, you could get yourself an iphone and throw your library on it and sync it with the bluetooth on that deck.


c) That's a possibility. I'm trying to work out a deal with the wife, who has wanted me to get one for years now. If she stops arguing so vehemently against my bicycling to work, I'll get a cell to ameliorate her "What happens if something happens to you out there?" concerns. :laugh:


----------



## AKMetal (Mar 3, 2011)

A happy wife is a good thing, I would go that route."you want me to have a phone? Ok, if I can spend more on my system!"

Nothing over the top, I have 2 10"s but im considering selling them and getting a 12 to conserve trunk. Deck, comps and some sound material for the doors and trunk.

If I get crazy maybe a custom fiberglass box to conserve even more trunk. The box these 10s came in eats my whole trunk


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

OK, I've finally begun the deadening work on the doors! Took long enough I know 

Anyway, a couple weeks ago I popped the rear door sail off in order to begin... but it broke off. That plus a full schedule plus crappy weather on off days put me on hold til yesterday, when I finally found a free hour late in the day to try again. I got the rear door trim panel off with little difficulty, and cleaned and deadened the metal. One 12x24 tile was sufficient. I also took the stock speaker out of the existing spacer/mount, and put the new speaker inside it - made mounting it a piece of cake. 

Then I tried to cut a piece of foil-backed MLV to replace the palstic vapor barrier. That was unsuccessful. But I have plenty, and learned that merely mimicking the plastic doesn't quite work. So I temporarily put the old vapor barrier back. The speaker is unconnected for the moment; I will connect it when I install the new HU (which I've not yet ordered lol)

But it was a good exploratory & learning session. I'll likely do a mechanical + adhesive mount for the MLV sheet when I do it. I'm also seriously examining the trim panel. It's easy, upon removal, to see why there are so many buzzes and rattles in it. Some silicone adhesive ought fix that. As for the deadener itself... if you tap the front (undeadened) door it goes PING, but the rear (deadened) door goes thunk.


----------



## vapor77 (Mar 12, 2011)

Just curious if you ordered those extra kick panels from the dealer or a source online?


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Online source. Can't remember which, but it was a Subaru-specific site. They were cheap... I'll have to find a source for the rear sails too now.




vapor77 said:


> Just curious if you ordered those extra kick panels from the dealer or a source online?


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Progress report: Both passenger-side doors have been done with Damplifier Pro CLD tiles, and the door trims stabilized with silicone caulk. The rear speaker is not connected; I left the fronts stock for the time being.

The difference is already amazing.

Total CLD coverage is probably around 35%. I've usd two and a quarter of the 12x24 tiles. The passenger-side audio has become much more well defined across the entire range, and the entire system is significantly louder. When I play with the balance, the driver's side sounds muffled and distorted by comparison to the passenger side. In addition, road noise is reduced.

By the end of next weekend I will be sure to deaden both driver's side doors and apply the silicone to every identifiable point of contact/rattle/buzz.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The doors are all deadened. Makes a tremendous difference in sound, and has some effect on road noise. I used 5 of the dozen 12x24 cld tiles. I'm gonna deaden the rear quarter panels; that ought use one more tile or so. The remainder will be for the roof (and hopefully manage to keep one or two in reserve).

I purchased a JVC KW-NT50HDT head unit. So I now have all the components. Maybe I'll be done by end of summer lol


----------



## saMxp (Jun 22, 2007)

Nice!

Man, I would love to tackle the roof but a little nervous about how labor intensive the headliner removal would be.


----------



## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Post up the headliner removal! I got 4 Raamat tiles set aside for my roof when I'm feeling ambitious!


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Just did the left rear quarter panel before dinner. Difficult to reach in there, but it's done - and it gave me a preview of the work involved in removing the headliner.


----------



## saMxp (Jun 22, 2007)

coyote-1 said:


> Just did the left rear quarter panel before dinner. Difficult to reach in there, but it's done - and it gave me a preview of the work involved in removing the headliner.


Looks like a lot of work!


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

saMxp said:


> Looks like a lot of work!


Yeah it does. Fortunately I only have to loosen it enough to get the Damplifier Pro CLD in there, so I can omit a few of those steps. I'm cutting the CLD into smaller chunks to make installation easier; provided I get adequate distribution, it's just as effective that way.


----------



## saMxp (Jun 22, 2007)

Definitely don't need full coverage for an effective CLD treatment. But if I'm going through the effort, I'd like to get a few pieces of CLD on the headliner itself, and also as much CCF as I can get in there for attenuation as well as bracing the headliner against the sheet metal.


----------



## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

I've pulled the headliner down in my 04 Legacy, A lot of work. If you need to fully remove it the back seats need to come out as well, lol.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

I have the sunroof that retracts internally, so all that is not really an option. I'll just have to live with 30% or so CLD coverage to dampen the vibrations.



saMxp said:


> Definitely don't need full coverage for an effective CLD treatment. But if I'm going through the effort, I'd like to get a few pieces of CLD on the headliner itself, and also as much CCF as I can get in there for attenuation as well as bracing the headliner against the sheet metal.


----------



## goodstuff (Jan 9, 2008)

coyote-1 said:


> I have the sunroof that retracts internally, so all that is not really an option. I'll just have to live with 30% or so CLD coverage to dampen the vibrations.


I have the sunroof as well so I only did about 60% coverage on the roof.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

The sloooow progress continues lol

On Friday, the SiriusConnect kit and Axxess steering wheel control adapter arrived. Those are the final hardware items; I have everything I need to complete the install.

Yesterday I installed the antennae for the GPS and Sirius. They are under the plastic 'spoiler' that sits at the top of the rear hatch. In order to route the cables I'll have to remove the headliner. So that's the next item, at which point of course I'll also deaden the roof.... but it will only happen on a non-beach weekend day.


----------



## ecbmxer (Dec 1, 2010)

Nice. Did your car come with OEM radio controls or are you adding them?


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

It came with wheel controls. Mode (CD, FM, AM, etc), vol up/down, and channel change. The channel change is multi-functional; press it momentarily and it goes to the next saved 'favorite' channel, hold it down and it seeks the next unsaved channel in the broadcast band.



ecbmxer said:


> Nice. Did your car come with OEM radio controls or are you adding them?


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Finally got back to work on the project! Ordinarily on a gorgeous 92 degree day I'd be beachin', but the wife wanted to stay home. So I took the opportunity to get busy.

Took down the headliner. Deadened the roof, and routed the cables for the satellite and GPS antennae. Contrary to the instructions, you don't have to remove the rear seat and entire rear interior to lower the headliner; merely removing the trim around the 'opera' window is sufficient. Nonetheless it remains a lot of work.

I still have to run the speaker wires, mount the amp and Sirius components, build the sub enclosure and then finally install the HU. But we're at least making headway.

Will post a few pics of the headliner work on Monday.


----------



## coyote-1 (Nov 2, 2010)

Wow, it's been almost 2 months since I last posted! Summer got ahold of me, and is only now letting go  So I really didn't do much in the meantime. But the past weekend I finally got in a couple hours' work, and it looks li9ke I'll get more done tomorrow or Sunday.

I routed all the passenger-side speaker wires. The rear passenger speaker is mounted & soldered. The crossovers for the fronts are mounted inside the "end caps" of the dash trim; it's a perfect spot for them. I used Velcro.

Having done that and learned a few things, the drivers' side wiring will undoubtedly go more quickly.


----------

