# LINEAR POWER 2202iq gut pics HELP



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

This is a 2202iq i purchased a while back off of ebay. the prick screwed me over basically, but hopefully it wont cost an arm and a leg to get working right.
when hooked up it makes what sounds like a horrible ground loop, that is very loud.
in this pic, does anyone see anything out of place? the circle on the right shows where a larger 85degree cap would normally be, instead its a tiny cap.

on the left is where an acrylic box should be, i assume it has something to do with the turn on thump eliminator, but does it do anything else??? and can these things be located???

could these things be causing this horrible noise???

thanks for anybodies help!


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

Another question i meant to ask is, what are the best caps to use to replace/ upgrage the 85's in there right now?


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

huh huh huh


----------



## jimmy2345 (Jul 12, 2010)

drumcrusher said:


> Another question i meant to ask is, what are the best caps to use to replace/ upgrage the 85's in there right now?


You can just follow the value on the caps for replacement. Just make sure you buy a quality brand. You can go up in temperature if you want but you really don't need to.


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Panasonic makes some of the best electrolytics. Nichicon is good too, but I would go with Panasonic.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

cool thanks for your help. read some good things about these elna silmacs too. a little pricey though. i wonder if they make any real difference in sound? at least in a car?

anyone know anything about the clear plastic piece that is missing from the left side, right by the speaker connections? i have a 2202 (non iq version) that doesnt use this part.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

this is the part in question>


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

That looks like a relay.

Elna are nice electrolytics for coupling applications. For the PS you would want something larger.


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Digikey should have the relays and caps. I think the ones in my LPs were made by Omron.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

i wonder if thats a part i would need to get in touch with TIPS about, or if i could find it somewhere else. 
the guy that sold me his needs to be beat somethin serious...


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

cool man. thanks a lot for your help.


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

Those relays were notorious for going bad.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

as far as the relay goes, looking at what there is, i have absolutely no idea what im looking for. can anyone help me out?


----------



## thehatedguy (May 4, 2007)

I wish I could...I don't have any more LP amps laying around. Let me see if I have any more close up pictures of my old ones to get a part number off of.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

yea, thats what ive been looking for online. since mine doesnt have the part at all it complicates things a little. i could shout at ray up at tips, im sure he knows. if replacing all this stuff doesnt fix it, ill prolly have to send it to him anyway.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Its the relay for sure. And no, just replacing it will not fix the problem. Because there might be other parts of that circuit that are damaged (more likely a capacitor/s). 

And you will have no luck finding it on google, yahoo, bing, ect. All you will find are threads (most of them for sale threads, lol).

Oh and TIPS (RAY) will combine the repair and modification fees (I think its half off the repair fee if modded or something like that). Most will debate about the modds done to the amps but they are worth it for sure on the 2202IQ's.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

do you remember where you ordered the relay from man? i have searched, and like you said, ive had no luck. 
what kind of performance gains did you get with your modded 2202's? i have two, and i'm afraid i'd drop double the cash to get both modded if i wasnt careful>


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

The relay for the 1502IQ was a Fujitsu FBR621 D012. I don't know if the 2202IQ took the same relay or not because I never owned one of those.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

I dont see why that one wouldn't work. As a matter of fact that is the same one on the 5002 (the one I found). Here is the link for that seller. He gave me a good price of 12 EUROS for 2 relays shipped to USA. Which is about 18-20 bucks (yeah its toooo much for relays, this are 3-5 dollar parts).

http://cgi.ebay.ph/Fujitsu-Relay-FBR621D012-Miniature-Power-Dbl-Pole-10pk-/360015946435

When I searched it a few suppliers popped up, but each one you had to contact and request a quote (which means you had to buy a miniumim of like 100) so no luck with those guys. Best bet is to keep searching for a USA supplier.


----------



## ChrisB (Jul 3, 2008)

You don't need to order them from overseas: FINDER|40.52.7.012.0000|POWER RELAY DPDT-2CO 12VDC, 8A | Newark.com

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics-PB/RTE24012F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW%252bqPD%2fseNHGcy0VB2rb0dM4%3d

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=PB296-ND


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

I believe the relay is in fact a delay to avoid on-off pops and doubt it will cause the sound issues. 
Dont quote me on that....

BTW:
If you need more pics of the insides let me know and I will pop the top on mine.


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Xttp://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188419_1868011056057_1114496579_32232777_4899954_n.jpg

Xttp://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/190012_1868011816076_1114496579_32232779_3715175_n.jpg

Relay

Xttp://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199048_1868011416066_1114496579_32232778_5024671_n.jpg

cap

Probably the same values as your 2202, but mine is a red one and known for having much higher outputs.


Sorry for using the 'X' in http, not to 30 post yet

~JH


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

Also.....I just noticed that my 2202 that someone wrote on the board and cap. Do these have a meaning or anyone else have them?

Looks like 'TMW'


----------



## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

drumcrusher said:


> this is the part in question>


That is a relay to stop turn on, and turn off thump. As far as the capacitors go, replace with same value, but 105C rating. Nichicon makes a quality cap.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

thanks for all your help guys. im gonna order that relay, and replace the caps, and see if that fixes things. other than that i dont know what else to do.
one strange thing is that i ran it straight off of my ipod via headphone jack to rca adapter and the damn thing sounded fine. that kindof confuses me. ive tried it out with two different head units with noisy results. im going to try it with all 3 outputs of my 9815 this weekend.
why would the ipod be different?


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> why would the ipod be different?


Your 9815 RCA outputs shield is grounded to the same source as the amp?

80% of the time this is the cause every time. (Anchor Man movie ref.)



~JH


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

i havent tried hooking the amp to the 9815 yet. with the other units i had in the car i tried grounding to several areas, including straight to the battery terminal. none of the spots worked. and yes, im grounding everything to the same dist. block.
the ipod of course has no ground at all, so i wonder if that has anything to do with it? just thinking out loud at this point lol


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Xttp://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188419_1868011056057_1114496579_32232777_4899954_n.jpg
> 
> Xttp://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/190012_1868011816076_1114496579_32232779_3715175_n.jpg
> 
> ...


????? I hope your not serious, lol. Color doesnt make them stronger.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Also.....I just noticed that my 2202 that someone wrote on the board and cap. Do these have a meaning or anyone else have them?
> 
> Looks like 'TMW'


The guys testing them had to initial them. So ALL linear power amps are initial some way. Most of mine have the same markings.


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> ????? I hope your not serious, lol. Color doesnt make them stronger.


Hells yes I am serious. 
The red batches had the toroidal wound by an 80 year old grandmother who accidentally added an extra wind to the transformer causing 38v at the rail (as apposed to 35v). When the amp was biased they had to replace some of the caps to compensate yielding about 10% more output @ 500hz and slightly increase damping. 


(*dont feed into my BS, trying to reach 30 posts)



~JH


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Jonny Hotnuts said:


> Hells yes I am serious.
> The red batches had the toroidal wound by an 80 year old grandmother who accidentally added an extra wind to the transformer causing 38v at the rail (as apposed to 35v). When the amp was biased they had to replace some of the caps to compensate yielding about 10% more output @ 500hz and slightly increase damping.
> 
> 
> ...


Where you read this at? Or who told you so? I can measure the rail voltage on my black 2202IQ to see if that is true. I think my black 1752 read 36v (72v total) at 4-ohms stereo and thats just a 175watt amp.


----------



## Jonny Hotnuts (Mar 15, 2011)

> Hells yes I am serious.
> The red batches had the toroidal wound by an 80 year old grandmother who accidentally added an extra wind to the transformer causing 38v at the rail (as apposed to 35v). When the amp was biased they had to replace some of the caps to compensate yielding about 10% more output @ 500hz and slightly increase damping.
> 
> *
> ...



Read the fine print, just being full of poop.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

sitting here looking at the smaller caps in my amp, it looks like some have been replaced too. i really have no idea if they are correct values or not... geesh. i really want to smack the guy that did this. anybody have any idea where i can get some scematics for this amp? its starting to get to the point where id rather have somebody else fix it. if i could get the exact values for the caps, i may still try to do this. but if not, i'll have to pay somebody else i guess.
i wonder if the idiot that butchered this thing thought that he could just stick anything in there and make it work.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Only person I would trust for a Linear Power repair is either Ray at TIPS or Perry. Ray has fixed prices, but will combine mod&repair cost (half of either repair or mod).


----------



## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

This might be really easy to fix; good chance it's just the caps across the input RCA's. I don't think it's the one's you've circled, more likely the ones next to the gain knob up front- they are probably 10Kohm, and the temp rating doesn't matter for these; you ought to be able to pick up better caps than LP used originally at radio shack for a buck or two.  

I'm 99% sure I've got a 2202IQ in a closet at home (though might be a 2002IQ), so when I get back into town next week I can (probably) tell you for sure.

Anyway the relays on the IQ series were pretty loud when they clicked on- I'd look into a solid state replacement- or you could just bypass it and see if you have pop. Sounds like it might be bypassed already, since it turns on without a relay.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

A 2002IQ? Are you sure?


----------



## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

TrickyRicky said:


> A 2002IQ? Are you sure?


Erm, obviously not.


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

SQ_Bronco said:


> Erm, obviously not.


lol, its a 2202IQ or a 2002.


----------



## Mike_Dee (Mar 26, 2011)

SQ_Bronco said:


> I'm 99% sure I've got a 2202IQ in a closet at home (though might be a 2002IQ), so when I get back into town next week I can (probably) tell you for sure.


Yeah, LP didn't make a 2002IQ


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

Anyway the relays on the IQ series were pretty loud when they clicked on- I'd look into a solid state replacement- or you could just bypass it and see if you have pop. Sounds like it might be bypassed already, since it turns on without a relay.[/QUOTE]

I'm not sure that I know what you mean by a solid state replacement... any way you can give me details??? i ordered the relay already, but it was cheap and i would be willing to try something better if it was available. 

I'm going to go ahead and replace all the caps as soon as i can work out getting the schematics from a nice guy on these threads. anybody recommend anything as far as these smaller caps go? anything better as far as sound quality???


----------



## TrickyRicky (Apr 5, 2009)

Try to get 105c rated caps with long shelf life. The 105c are rated to last almost twice aslong as the 85c. But if those caps survived +20 years, you think the new ones wont last that long.

I have a 300 that plays like it was just made yesterday and that sucker has all original parts, over 30 years old and no problems. Ofcourse I dont have it installed so its not used, but when I do power it up it sound pretty darn good for an amp that old.


----------



## SQ_Bronco (Jul 31, 2005)

While you should probably replace all the caps eventually, I don't recommend that you do them all at once. if you do, and you mess something up, you'll pull your hair out trying to figure out what you did wrong. Doing one at a time makes it much easier to figure out what is going on.

Along those same lines, if it turns on (and works fine with inputs from an ipod) I'd ignore the missing relay until you fix the noise issue, which is 99% likely to be the input filter caps. FYI the amps I have are a 2202 and a 2002, and a couple of 5002IQ's. The input caps on the 2202 are cheap 8K uF 85c caps. My 5002IQ's have 10k 85c's, as I guessed earlier. The 2002 also has 85c 10KuF. Interestingly, the 452IQ has 1 uF 105c's, but those are probably not stock.

Anyway, won't hurt anything to use 10k uF's on the ones by the gain knob, and see what happens.

Also, the one you've circled, on the right side, is an 85c 16V 2200uF in my 2202. That would also be a good one to replace- might do that one first, since it's in the PS, and is probably not the right value.

one other thing to note- these are all polarized caps, so it's important that you get that part right. It's not readily apparent on my 2202 which side is negative- it's not printed on the board- so for the large one in the PS, you'll want the negative post on the side facing "forward" (towards the RCA's, you can kind of see the marking on the other pic you posted, under the brown wire), and on the smaller ones up from, use your multimeter on the positive terminals to make sure they are installed correctly.

So, in order,

1) Check polarity of the 3 caps
2) replace any that are backwards, then test
3) replace the little guy in the PS with a big one, then test
4) replace the little ones, then test


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

awesome help guys. i hope to do some work on it this weekend and i will keep you updated. i may just replace the 2 by the gain, and the other 2 that i know are "alien" caps, and see what that does at first.


----------



## drumcrusher (May 4, 2008)

looking at the caps on my 2202 (not the 2202iq thats messed up) actually has a 2200uf 25v cap at said place in the power supply. kindof weird that yours has different values (maybe not) and the 2 by the gain knob in the 2202iq (being worked on) are 10uf 50volt. they look "stock". i wonder if they came with different sized caps sometimes???

ok now, there is a cap immediately above, and to the right of the gain knob that has been replaced. its about an inch from the gain. can someone give me the value of that one.

thennnn, lol there is a cap in the very farthest top right corner of the amp that has been cut out of my picture. i need a value for that one too. its the farthest cap to the right, and top of the board.

as soon as i get my nikon back from the girlfriends i'll definately take some pictures, but if you guys have that info it would be a great help... until i get the schematics.


----------

