# Making RCA Cables



## NaamanF

Figured I would do a down and dirty on making your own RCA cables. The process I show is how I made my cables but can be modified to suit your needs. 

Here is pretty much everything I use to make the cables.








The cable is Canare star quad. 
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=L-4E6S&off=6&sort=prod
You can use this cable for both channel or as a single channel doubling up the conductors. It's a nice flexible cable that comes in many different colors to match just about any install. 

RCA connectors from HomeGrownAudio
http://www.homegrownaudio.com/rca_connectors.htm
I find these to be well made locking connectors without breaking the bank (WBT). I would stay away from anything you have to crimp. I can always desolder these and use them for other applications in the future.

Solder, Techflex, and heat shrink from Partsexpress. I like to use silver solder due to the increased strength it provides. It does take a iron that gets hot. 








Most cheap irons will not get hot enough. If you have one of those just use regular lead/tin solder. Don't worry about the "sonic" difference between silver and regular solder. 

I use razor blades like they are going out of style. I do all my striping with one. And I still have most of my finger tips  . 

The first think you want to due is cut the cable to the length you need. Then you need to figure out how much of the outer jacket to cut. 
















Make sure to just cut down to the shield. You don't want to go through it and cut the conductors.

Next peel back the shield. I like to use a pick to pull it apart. Then use either a pair of small wire cutters or scissors to cut the shield flush with the jacket. The shield can be connected along with the ground conductor on one or both ends. It seems the preferred method is to attach the shield to the ground at the source end of the cable. 

















Next you want to cut the conductor jacket to length. This is the part that takes the most patience and practice to get it right. If you cut the conductor to much just start over. If you cut your finger put a band-aid on it. Then twist the conductors together and tin. I use the white as signal and blue as ground. Some say that the dye used for the blue degrades the signal. I don't buy it but to be safe I use the white as signal anyway.

















Now I add the Techflex and heat shrink. I just use a pair of scissors to cut it. If you put it on right away and put the heatshrink on it does come apart and is cleaner than using a hot knife. The connectors I use don't have markings for left and right, so I use different color heat shrink.









Next I put the wire in the connector and solder. Signal (white) goes to the center and ground (blue) goes to the outside. It looks like poop in these pictures but it is a good joint.

















Then the barrel goes on and it's all done.









There many variations you can do with different wire and connectors.


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## bobditts

looks easy enough. how much do you figure a short length of RCA would cost dto do yourself (for just the connectors and wire)?


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## NaamanF

The connector is the expensive part. Figure about $.40-$.80 per foot for the wire. About $7 for 25' of Techflex. Maybe $.50 for heat shrink. The RCA ends run anywhere from $.50 to $48 for hight end WBTs.


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## bobditts

great walkthrough naaman! always nothing but the best from you!


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## chad

Do you have issues with the shield? Is it hooked up on at least one end to make it a SHIELD? Are you aware that even with "twisted pair" theory (only with balanced) that Canare Star quad is not at all "twisted pair?"

The star quad just got negated to 16GA speaker cable, a hap-hazard twist, and a big radio antenna wrapped around it (not saying that that does not work) 

Use the shield for unbalanced cionnections, use ONE conductor, use the remaining conductors for more amps. 

Star Quad is MICROPHONE cable for STAGE USE, it is overrated for consumer use but great on a stage when you need redundancy and ruggedness. No reason to have it in a car unless you need to shove 4 ch's of audio down a 1/4"

Chad


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## NaamanF

I don't have any problems with the shielding. I mentioned connecting the shield at the beginning but left it out for simplicity. I originally bough the cable to be used as a stereo pair per run of wire.


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## npdang

An excellent, well written post. Thank you!


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## 3.5max6spd

Inded,one of the many excellent and educational threads available in DIY in regards to 'How to". Thanks, because of it i'll be giving it a shot one day.


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## Sr SQ

Excellent tutorial NaamanF
I have built many of my own RCAs using a similar technique (no silver solder however)but I just used a cheap Beldon Cat cable (part # 8760) that has 1 pair of twisted 18g and a shield. I do as you mention solder the shielding to the ground but I don't know what difference it makes as I don't have anything to reference it against? That jacketing you used looks pretty snazzy where do you buy that?


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## drocpsu

Sr SQ said:


> Excellent tutorial NaamanF
> I have built many of my own RCAs using a similar technique (no silver solder however)but I just used a cheap Beldon Cat cable (part # 8760) that has 1 pair of twisted 18g and a shield. I do as you mention solder the shielding to the ground but I don't know what difference it makes as I don't have anything to reference it against? That jacketing you used looks pretty snazzy where do you buy that?


I think he said he got the heatshrink and techflex from parts express.


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## illnastyimpreza

any negatives to running both L and R channel down the one run of cable?

also, I have been looking @ RCA connectors but the good ones are QUITE expensive. Can anyone recomend a GOOD connector to use for around a couple buck a a piece?


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## Sr SQ

Opps :blush: 
My bad I missed that part


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## khail19

illnastyimpreza said:


> any negatives to running both L and R channel down the one run of cable?


I'd like to know this as well. Is doubling up necessary?



illnastyimpreza said:


> also, I have been looking @ RCA connectors but the good ones are QUITE expensive. Can anyone recomend a GOOD connector to use for around a couple buck a a piece?


Partsexpress has some decent looking ones in that price range.

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&CAT_ID=39&ObjectGroup_ID=125&SO=2

These P3 ones look pretty good, $10 for 4 of them.


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## NaamanF

I had originally planned to use the wire for both left and right. It should work out just fine. As far as the ends I would stay away from the really cheap ones. Try here..
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CATID=39&ObjectGroup_ID=125

Also take into account the opening in the connector and the size of the wire with the Techflex and heat shrink.


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## quality_sound

chad said:


> Star Quad is MICROPHONE cable for STAGE USE, it is overrated for consumer use but great on a stage when you need redundancy and ruggedness. No reason to have it in a car unless you need to shove 4 ch's of audio down a 1/4"
> 
> Chad


I followed the link he provided and I found Star Quad mic cable AND signal cable. Is their signal cable the same as their mic cable.


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## Richard

On the other hand, if you use it for TWO channels (instead of four) using its' pretwisted pairs you will have an near audiophile cable. The cable is renowned for more than its' durability as a mic cable.


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## chad

Richard said:


> On the other hand, if you use it for TWO channels (instead of four) using its' pretwisted pairs you will have an near audiophile cable. The cable is renowned for more than its' durability as a mic cable.


Starquad does not have twisted pairs, it's all twisted together in there.

Here's a durability testimonial.....

I watched a roadie drag a 328Lb speaker (on wheels) across the quad. The quad caught and got dragged close to 50 feet pinched between the caster and the floor attempting to do the duty of a pencil eraser to the floor. The cable came out missing a bit of jacket but not into the sheild, it performs flawlessly. That same poor cable (thankfully that one out of the multitude that I have) got somehow crushed in a case lid and cut into. I dissected the "pencil eraser" section to find the conductors perfectly situated as they should be with no deformation. Good ****. Now it's 2 short mic cables 

Still don't use it in a car though, I run permanent install grade audio cable, single pair, 100% foil shield, and C-H-E-A-P!

Chad


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## solacedagony

So, correct me if I'm wrong, you should connect the shielding only on one end? The shield connects to where that little allen screw is?
Chad: Where do you get that permanent install cable from?


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## Richard

You can use the twisted blue and white pairs together (to make four) and use the shield as a ground, *or *the blue and white twisted pairs separately for hot and ground (two each). I chose the latter method for my home stereo interconnects and floated the shield by connecting it only to the source. High end audio cable for the car is very expensive and the Star Quad is an excellent option. I consider it a much better choice than mid-grade interconnects. Neutric makes excellent RCA plugs without going exotic.

Regards,
Richard


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## chad

solacedagony said:


> So, correct me if I'm wrong, you should connect the shielding only on one end? The shield connects to where that little allen screw is?
> Chad: Where do you get that permanent install cable from?


In a balanced sutuation it's 50/50 as to if you attach the shield at both ends. Mic cables always have them attached so phantom power has a drain potential. At balanced line level it's not needed and some studio designers want one end lifted or cap coupled for RFI only drain.

Un balanced you will most likely need both ends attached, I have seen very few occasions where a lifted signal ground (shield) helps S/N in unbalanced situations and this us usually in situations where the equipment is closely racked and grounded to the rack. In a car I find it to HAVE to be connected at both ends 99.99999% of the time. In an unbalanced connection it's needed for ground reference instead of relying on vehicle chassis integrity to maintain that ground balance. Ecpecially with the non-standard design of grounded /VS/ Floating I/O configurations. 

So for a short answer.... Hook it up on both ends. Lift if you need to.

Install cable can be had directly from the maker, or often times from a professional A/V house in your area. For example I go to an A/V house and can get it cheaper new than ordering it from gepco since they have GOBS of it in a myriad of colors and get it at quantity discounts. Become friends with these folks (I am a contract worker and former employee for the one I go to  ) I often times ask to rummage thru the "pull remnant" box for all my patch cords. During big pulls they will almost always have leftovers, sometimes up to 20' on a long pull. I usually can walk away with what I need for a project for free or next to nothing. The cost is merely for connectors (actually far from merely on a big project)

Chad


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## chad

Richard said:


> You can use the twisted blue and white pairs together (to make four) and use the shield as a ground, *or *the blue and white twisted pairs separately for hot and ground (two each). I chose the latter method for my home stereo interconnects and floated the shield by connecting it only to the source.



Good job! Very acceptable for unbalanced connections!

Chad


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## solacedagony

So this would be an acceptable cable? I was thinking of getting the star quad because then I could keep left and right together but I think I just rather run them separately.
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=L-2T2S+BK&off=33&sort=prod

Edit: Also, for whoever was looking for the cheap RCA ends. Markertek has the same Neutrik ones as PE, except cheaper. (http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=NYS352&off=16&sort=prod)


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## NaamanF

solacedagony said:


> So this would be an acceptable cable? I was thinking of getting the star quad because then I could keep left and right together but I think I just rather run them separately.
> http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=L-2T2S+BK&off=33&sort=prod
> 
> Edit: Also, for whoever was looking for the cheap RCA ends. Markertek has the same Neutrik ones as PE, except cheaper. (http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=NYS352&off=16&sort=prod)


I am sure those would work fine but they are 16ga and a bit over kill. You also have to order it 50ft at a time. If you do order from Markertek make sure you order everything you need because they get you a bit for shipping.


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## Richard

If you live in a major city you will probably find the cable at most electronics supply outlets. Not Radio Shack though. I thinks it comes in several colours but you'll likely only find black. If you're running parallel cables you can use a wire loom or tech flex with ties. 

Excellent explanation on "unbalanced connections" and I agree with your RX regarding auto vs. stage/home needs. Belden also makes a very high-end mic cable but I don't know what it's called. I encourage you to avoid anything but high-end cable because if you can hear a difference during recording (and often on stage) you'll hear a difference on playback....but ONLY on a high-end system. Like a home system, you can easily undermine the quality of your components with budget cable just as easily as spending too much on cables for a mediocre system.


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## chad

Shhhhhhhh, wrong forum


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## Richard

Did I say something wrong? If it was my reference to RS it was not intended to criticize their products. Only that they don't carry the cable. Maybe I'm the one who's unbalanced and should review the 'rules.'


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## chad

Many (most) here agree that a cable must have the physical attributes to make it noise free (free from microphonics in high impedance situations) But saying cable A of decent quality sounds different than cable B of higher price can cause an uproar at times 

I think we can all agree that not many of us visit radio shack 

Chad


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## DonutHands

i wish i knew of a electronics supply around my area. i hate radio shack and Frys and i hate online ordering.


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## thatvan

internecine said:


> i wish i knew of a electronics supply around my area. i hate radio shack and Frys and i hate online ordering.


Try Electronics City in Burbank. I believe they have a website as well.


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## solacedagony

Would Home Depot/Lowes carry cable like that? What is the cable considered anyway? Audio cable?

Edit: Did anyone also realize that Chuck Norris does their live chat support?


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## Richard

I had feeling my statement might stir the pot, being well aware of the discussion around cable quality. On the other hand, if you've ever used a studio microphone - not a stage model - and compared cables while recording digitally you will likely hear the difference. In other words, your cables, including those for the speakers, should match the quality of your components while you keep a skeptical eye out for manufacturer's hype. It seems to me that's why the popular car audio cable manufacturers offer three lines. Ferrari owners don't shop at Canadian Tire for their rubber.

Home Depot will not carry the cable. If there's no electronics outlet nearby try a major music store because many musicians make their own mic and guitar cables. 

On that 'note', if anybody knows Bruce tell him I'd love to audition on keyboards for the E Street Band. Just one of my fantasies.


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## khail19

Richard said:


> I had feeling my statement might stir the pot, being well aware of the discussion around cable quality. On the other hand, if you've ever used a studio microphone - not a stage model - and compared cables while recording digitally you will likely hear the difference. In other words, your cables, including those for the speakers, should match the quality of your components while you keep a skeptical eye out for manufacturer's hype. It seems to me that's why the popular car audio cable manufacturers offer three lines. Ferrari owners don't shop at Canadian Tire for their rubber.


It's not so much that the cable quality might make a difference in sound reproduction. Whether it does or not I feel is totally dependent on the listener, since everyone's ears are different. The real question is can you hear the difference over all of the other noise present in a vehicle? A car is a far cry from a recording studio, and spending a crapload of money on patch cables usually doesn't gain you much. At least in my admittedly limited experience.


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## chad

We have over a million dollars of inventory of Neumann alone, vintage and new.... This number doesnot include the Schoeps, DPA, Sennheiser, etc. We use Canare, nothing esoteric, and have made well regarded world class recordings.

In fact we did play with cabling when auditioning mic preamps, we found the preamp we liked (Millennia HV3c that time) and compared Canare to a rather expensive snake oil cable.... no difference was heard from any of the engineers.

Take it as you may.

Dissect a studio monitor and tell me what kind of speaker wire they use inside.

Tannoy, JBL, Meyer, Genelec, others... NONE advertise the cable that their monitors are wired with internally.

I would also like to add the the Ferrari probably uses the same type of copper wire my Honda has for it's internal wiring, maybe even the same composition in the spark plug wires. Metallurgy wise, many of the same metals thru and thru.

Comparing tires on a car in terms of quality is the same as comparing speaker components BIG difference between Seas and Goldwood. Same with Farm and fleet tires VS high end Pirelli's. Wire is wire as long as it's of good build quality.

Chad


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## Richard

My reference to the tires is called an analogy. Curious to know why you're critical of the wires in your speaker cabinets. Did you find something inferior about its' metallurgy? Still, I'm glad we all agree on Canare and the importance of scrutinizing the hype. If or when you get a Ferrari let us know where you buy your replacement tires.


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## DonutHands

Umm, your analogy is just an analogy. Doesn't mean its right.

Chad brought up the point about the speaker cabinets because if you go open one up, what will you find? 100% pure silver braid in teflon tube? no, plain ole copper wire. you will find this in bust buy speakers and in audiophile grade. why? because apples to apples, wire is wire.


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## solacedagony

Any difference between foil shielding and braid shielding?


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## chad

Foil is 100% but not durable, fine in a car though. Braided is designed to flex and hold up to abuse but not 100% coverage.

Willyou hear a difference? Probably not unless you toss it under a large radio transmitter. Will you notice a difference in your wallet? Yep! A high quality cable with foil shield is 1/3 the price of a high quality cable with braided. (Comparing Gepco 61801EZ to Canare and other star quads.)

Chad


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## chad

Richard said:


> Curious to know why you're critical of the wires in your speaker cabinets. Did you find something inferior about its' metallurgy?


Nope, I said that because you are concerned with the speaker cable outside the cab.




Richard said:


> Still, I'm glad we all agree on Canare and the importance of scrutinizing the hype.


I think we are almost on the same page here, I don't consider Canare as an esoteric cable, it's a damn fine wrkhorse cable with great properties that allow easy winding, durability, and constructed in a way that inhibits self noise due to vibration.



Richard said:


> If or when you get a Ferrari let us know where you buy your replacement tires.



I think the Ferarri is a beautiful vehicle and if I owned one you would hear my ass cheeks clapping in Canada  I AM shopping for a vehicle fo that "drive on a weekend" status. Used Ferarri's were not out of the question, along with Porsche and others. I have pretty much made up my mind to do 1 of 3 things. Mid 80's vette, heavily built in the engine department. Classic 60's muscle restored but modernized. Or an old Gangster car, chopped, rolled, and hot-rod cool. It's more my style. It's also something I can enjoy working on with my kid. A Fererri or foreign exotic would be VERY cool but I kinda want something to tinker with at the same time. I'd just end up looking at a Ferarri 5 days a week and driving it on the weekend, I wanna put the hood up 


Chad


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## solacedagony

They consider this guitar cable. Don't you need two conductors for any signal wiring (RCA/guitar/etc)? There's only one. Is the shield used as ground?


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## chad

The 61801 is a dream to work with, just score the outer jacket, snap it in 2 directions and pull, the foil comes with and you are left with a red, black, and drain wire. Just good stuff. I use it in a transmitter shack with all the transmitters under 50KW FM bays and next to a 3KW AM skirt antenna and never have RFI issues.

Just use the shield as ground/drain on the gee-tar cable, that's how it's used That cable is good to use if it's quality guitar cable because in guitar situations you have to deal with the "microphonics" that I was talking about earlier. Guitar players will attest to the fact that in high gain situations the ****tiness of a cable really shines when you wiggle it on the floor and you hear crackling sounds, the worst ones you can flick with your finger and it sounds like someone is knocking on a door  

Chad


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## solacedagony

But it's not advisable to do the same thing with RCAs? You want the separate signal, ground and shield?


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## andyj

Hi guys,

Just been reading some of the DIY RCA Cable threads, and thought about making my own.

With regards the cable itself, I have got access to rather a large quantity of the following cable at work, and I was wondering if it would be suitable for making RCA's from.....

http://www.weisd.com/store2/BEL9269 010U1000B.html

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Andy


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## andyj

Hi guys,

Just been reading some of the DIY RCA Cable threads, and thought about making my own.

With regards the cable itself, I have got access to rather a large quantity of the following cable at work, Belden 9269, and I was wondering if it would be suitable for making RCA's from?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Andy


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## chad

andyj said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Just been reading some of the DIY RCA Cable threads, and thought about making my own.
> 
> With regards the cable itself, I have got access to rather a large quantity of the following cable at work, Belden 9269, and I was wondering if it would be suitable for making RCA's from?
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> Andy


It wold work fine.... BTW.... What are you using 93 ohm cable at work for?


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## andyj

Hi Chad,

Thanks for confirming that it will be ok to use  

We use the 93 Ohm cable for networking some of the test equipment we use in our manufacturing facility. Apparently it's quite unique...

Saying that, I think we've got somewhere in the region of 20,000 feet of it in boxes in one of the store rooms, which hasn't been used for over 5 years !!

Andy


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## chad

I think it's safe to say that some of it won't be missed


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## andyj

My thoughts precisely 

Just need to find some nice connectors now, and get some cables made up.

Have found a supplier of braided sheathing, similair to Techflex, and heatshrink, so I'm sorted now.

Andy


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## illnastyimpreza

khail19 said:


> I'd like to know this as well. Is doubling up necessary?
> 
> 
> 
> Partsexpress has some decent looking ones in that price range.
> 
> http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&CAT_ID=39&ObjectGroup_ID=125&SO=2
> 
> These P3 ones look pretty good, $10 for 4 of them.


i'm still stuck on what RCA's to get.... my car stero is going to have around 30 RCA connections... and @ 2 bucks a piece...thats almost as much as I spent on the wire  

anyone know of a good bulk offer or anything? I just cant see spending that much JUST on RCA CONNECTORS...


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## Rudeboy

illnastyimpreza said:


> i'm still stuck on what RCA's to get.... my car stero is going to have around 30 RCA connections... and @ 2 bucks a piece...thats almost as much as I spent on the wire
> 
> anyone know of a good bulk offer or anything? I just cant see spending that much JUST on RCA CONNECTORS...


Hot Deals link to Streetwires connectors on eBay. Still had some 2 days ago when I looked.


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## 02bluesuperroo

illnastyimpreza said:


> i'm still stuck on what RCA's to get.... my car stero is going to have around 30 RCA connections... and @ 2 bucks a piece...thats almost as much as I spent on the wire
> 
> anyone know of a good bulk offer or anything? I just cant see spending that much JUST on RCA CONNECTORS...





Rudeboy said:


> Hot Deals link to Streetwires connectors on eBay. Still had some 2 days ago when I looked.


I just bought a 50 pack of these and I only need 20. I could send you the other 30 for $15 shipped.


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## MrH

02bluesuperroo said:


> I just bought a 50 pack of these and I only need 20. I could send you the other 30 for $15 shipped.


Are these still up for grabs?


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## 02bluesuperroo

MrH said:


> Are these still up for grabs?


I decided to keep them until my install is done and I find out how many I ruin. :blush: 

I will post up when/if I have leftovers. It should be within the next week or so.


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## tRidiot

Check out these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=270168079628&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=017

I just bought them on Egay and the seller has a couple more sets. Look very nice, IMO.

Good feedback, good communication, I got a shipping notice less than an hour after I paid. Now I gotta find the right cable, sleeving and shrinkwrap.

<sigh>


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## tRidiot

Could I use that 4-channel Gepco cable to make a stereo RCA that has 2 inputs and 4 outputs? Essentially avoiding the need for a Y-splitter, since I'm gonna have 2 subwoofer amps? Or would I be better off just running into one amp and then from the outputs to the next sub amp?


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## Richard

Based on the e-bay photos, albeit limited in scope, I'm left with the impression the RCA's are garbage "gold plated" connectors. Note that the seller did not include any closeups. I saw these connectors at the local supply house for dirt cheap and, in my opinion, were not worth my time and effort, especially since I wanted to upgrade. I believe the best entry level RCA connector for the dollar are the cheaper Neutriks. Next best connector without getting sucked into the hype? The more expensive Neutriks, of course. I have also been extremely pleased (and surprised) with the results from Belden's Star Quad cable. Glad to see your initiative in building your own interconnects. You will save a bundle of money, be absolutely sure about what's inside, and optimize your system - all at the same time. 

Richard (Calgary)


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## MrH

tRdoc said:


> Check out these:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=270168079628&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=017
> 
> I just bought them on Egay and the seller has a couple more sets. Look very nice, IMO.
> 
> Good feedback, good communication, I got a shipping notice less than an hour after I paid. Now I gotta find the right cable, sleeving and shrinkwrap.
> 
> <sigh>


"We'll' try to send 12 red striped and 12 black striped ones."

LMAO At least they'll try. What more could you ask for in customer service.


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## dtviewer

There is a seller on ebay selling Streetwire ZN-5 ends in 20 packs now instead of the 50 packs. Only 9.95 + 3.95 shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us


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## Richard

Very high quality connectors at an excellent price. Buy them.


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## chad

Richard said:


> Based on the e-bay photos, albeit limited in scope, I'm left with the impression the RCA's are garbage "gold plated" connectors. Note that the seller did not include any closeups. I saw these connectors at the local supply house for dirt cheap and, in my opinion, were not worth my time and effort, especially since I wanted to upgrade. I believe the best entry level RCA connector for the dollar are the cheaper Neutriks. Next best connector without getting sucked into the hype? The more expensive Neutriks, of course. I have also been extremely pleased (and surprised) with the results from Belden's Star Quad cable. Glad to see your initiative in building your own interconnects. You will save a bundle of money, be absolutely sure about what's inside, and optimize your system - all at the same time.
> 
> Richard (Calgary)


Yep. the "Dollar Neutriks" from many suppliers are killer, I can post pics tomorrow. I think they are a buck, can't remember the model number... maybe 121's? Dammit, rambling....

Chad


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## chad

http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=NYS373-BK&off=11&sort=prod

Them..... Them kick ass.


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## illnastyimpreza

chad said:


> http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct.asp?item=NYS373-BK&off=11&sort=prod
> 
> Them..... Them kick ass.


link didn't work ... what are they called ??


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## xcoldricex

Neutrik NF2CB RCA Professional RCA Plugs perhaps?










oh those are a bit more than a dollar. haha, but they look bad ass!

Neutrik RCA Plug with Gold Contacts?


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## ca90ss

These
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-112








or these
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-110


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## Richard

My suggestion? Spend the few extra dollars, buy the Neutrik Profi (spring loaded, well isolated, 2 per package), as pictured below, and don't get obsessive over the issue. If your system doesn't consist of high end components, you probably won't hear any difference anyway. However, if you build quality cables now (e.g. Canare Starquad and Neutrik Profi) you won't have to upgrade later and feel assured you've covered the interconnect issue thoroughly. I'm sure you've leaned that you get what you pay for (within limits). I tip my hat at your initiative.

Richard


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## xcoldricex

plus they're reusable right? need longer cables? desolder and make new ones!


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## Fixtion

"Quality" cables are a marketing scheme, which apparently you've all bought into. What makes "quality" is if the AWG is sufficent to the current drawn through the wire. 

Even comparing cooper to oxygen-free copper has it's difference, but so minute you can not even tell. The wire will last longer, however it's not justifible to spend all this money on wires. 

If you really want to spend money on wire, buy wire rated on it's ability to keep signal in extreme temperatures we see in the car/trunk. 145 to 175 degree F. You're looking at THWN wire they use for running eletricity to residential. Sticking all these "quality" wires in conduit and wraps insulates all that heat and degrades the "quality" of which you've purchased. 

Meh, sorry. To each his own. That's just my rant on all threads that go into spending so much money on wires and connectors. Solder you ends, or get non corrosive connectors, that's it. 

-Fixtion


----------



## xcoldricex

i don't think anyone in this thread is pushing high end cable...


----------



## tRidiot

Not at all, quite the contrary. I think Fixtion misunderstood something here, or perhaps didn't actually read the whole thread.

On this board, "quality" cables it seems usually used to describe the physical durability of cables, not in terms of the "Monster cable"-type stuff.

For that stuff, go check out the home theater boards where all the voodoo hype is accepted as gospel, about how some cables sound 'warm' or other such nonsense.


----------



## Richard

I am pleased to announce the creation of three one-meter very high-quality video component cables for $23.00 using the mid-priced Neutriks.....hand-built in Calgary by moi. I can't wait 'till this discussion extends into HDMI cables.

Richard


----------



## chad

xcoldricex said:


> Neutrik RCA Plug with Gold Contacts?


That's the one, the strain relief is not pictured.

Here's the real-life pics:



































You want to put a bit of shrink on the thinner wire for the chuck to bite into, that's the only issue I found. They are tough as nails!










Chad


----------



## xcoldricex

neutrik's a chinese company? wonder how cheap they are in china.


----------



## mach999

I've been on a buying spree lately with regards to rca's. I have some of those Neutriks and they are pretty nice. I use the 61801EZ and with some techflex and heatshrink it forms a fairly secure connection. I picked up some these from partsexpress and I really like them so far.











I should be getting a package today with what looks to be some solid rca plugs. I'll take pics later of them later.


----------



## Richard

As my son would say, "sweet."


----------



## illnastyimpreza

Richard said:


> I am pleased to announce the creation of three one-meter very high-quality video component cables for $23.00 using the mid-priced Neutriks.....hand-built in Calgary by moi. I can't wait 'till this discussion extends into HDMI cables.
> 
> Richard


How is your standard HDMI cable made up of ?


----------



## dtviewer

I'm about to make my own RCA cables, but have a few questions before I order everything.
I am picking up the 20 pack of streetwires RCA ends. I was looking at this for my wire. Would it be ok?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=100-246

Then for techflex, should I use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch? (I would like to use the techflex to cover my speaker wires also, but can buy different techflex for that)

Last question (for now anyway!!) what size heatshrink should I get? They sell 3mm or 6mm 3-1. 

Thanks for any help!!!


----------



## rsvchad

I'm about to take the plunge on finally installing a pile of equipment that has been collecting dust for more than a year now. I work for an electronics retailer and have access to this true 4-conductor (independent twisted pair with shield for L/R in single jacket) from Monster: http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=162
My cost on this wire works out to roughly .50 cents per foot, or roughly half what the Canare Star Quad would cost if used in a single run per channel. Would there be any reason to choose the star quad over this Monster product?


----------



## rsvchad

I'm about to take the plunge on finally installing a pile of equipment that has been collecting dust for more than a year now. I work for an electronics retailer and have access to this true 4-conductor (independent twisted pair with shield for L/R in single jacket) from Monster. My cost on this wire works out to roughly .50 cents per foot, or roughly half what the Canare Star Quad would cost if used in a single run per channel. Would there be any reason to choose the star quad over this Monster product? I would link to it, but apparently I'm not allowed due to my noob post count status. It is the model IL400MKII-4R.


----------



## Richard

Monster Cable (with the exception of their long HDMI) is to interconnects as BOSE is to speakers.


----------



## rsvchad

Richard said:


> Monster Cable (with the exception of their long HDMI) is to interconnects as BOSE is to speakers.


Thanks Richard. I've been in the industry for quite some time and I'm familiar with the marketing done by both Monster and Bose. What makes the Canare cable, not specifically designed for the application, superior to the Monster? I guess I can link to it now since I've hit five posts: http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=162


----------



## Thumper26

all marketing aside, i'm sure the monster cable is well made, and would work fine.

as long as you're getting a good price on it, and not paying for the name.


----------



## mach999

These are the ones I have minus the Neutriks that Chad already posted. The two on the left are the ones I got today. 












Here is a pic with the covers off. Sorry it's a little blurry.


----------



## xcoldricex

which ones do you like best?


----------



## mach999

xcoldricex said:


> which ones do you like best?



Just from the initial feel and finish I like the silver one on the left. But for the Gepco 61801EZ I'll be using the two in the middle fit the smaller wire MUCH better. I may use the larger ones for the home theater. The nice thing is that all of them cost under $2 a piece. I think the larger silver one on the left was 8/$13 and the one next to it was 12/$20. So far I'm pleased.


----------



## chad

Richard said:


> Monster Cable (with the exception of their long HDMI) is to interconnects as BOSE is to speakers.


Because Bose speakers sound like ass the the monster cable prolly sounds like any other cable?


----------



## illnastyimpreza

chad said:


> Because Bose speakers sound like ass the the monster cable prolly sounds like any other cable?


I think people really hate on Bose for no appahrent reason other than they are SO freakin POPULAR... My parents have the new wave radio or whatever, and honestly it sounds pretty good( for something that size)

I'm in no means a fan of, and would never buy that crap... just don't know why people have them so much


----------



## chad

illnastyimpreza said:


> I think people really hate on Bose for no appahrent reason other than they are SO freakin POPULAR... My parents have the new wave radio or whatever, and honestly it sounds pretty good( for something that size)
> 
> I'm in no means a fan of, and would never buy that crap... just don't know why people have them so much


For table top listening the wave radio rocks, if you are looking for background music bose products kill, I've even thought about a set of "gasp" Bose speakers for the garage. 

But for critical listening I still think they sound like ****. And the stuff is expensive!

We also use the noise canceling headsets here all the time for feild recording, accurate? NO! Better than others for getting "that one sound?" Damn skippy!

Chad


----------



## dtviewer

Anyone?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm about to make my own RCA cables, but have a few questions before I order everything.
I am picking up the 20 pack of streetwires RCA ends. I was looking at this for my wire. Would it be ok?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-246

Then for techflex, should I use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch? (I would like to use the techflex to cover my speaker wires also, but can buy different techflex for that)

Last question (for now anyway!!) what size heatshrink should I get? They sell 3mm or 6mm 3-1. 

Thanks for any help!!!


----------



## mach999

dtviewer said:


> Anyone?
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I'm about to make my own RCA cables, but have a few questions before I order everything.
> I am picking up the 20 pack of streetwires RCA ends. I was looking at this for my wire. Would it be ok?
> http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-246
> 
> Then for techflex, should I use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch? (I would like to use the techflex to cover my speaker wires also, but can buy different techflex for that)
> 
> Last question (for now anyway!!) what size heatshrink should I get? They sell 3mm or 6mm 3-1.
> 
> Thanks for any help!!!



That Dayton wire should work fine. The 1/8" techflex will fit the wire you're looking at nicely but I would go a little larger on the techflex for speaker wires. As for the heatshrink just grab some from Home Depot or Lowes, that way you can guage the size compared to your wire. The stuff is cheap so grab both sizes if you want. Depending on how you use it you may need both.


----------



## dtviewer

mach999 said:


> That Dayton wire should work fine. The 1/8" techflex will fit the wire you're looking at nicely but I would go a little larger on the techflex for speaker wires. As for the heatshrink just grab some from Home Depot or Lowes, that way you can guage the size compared to your wire. The stuff is cheap so grab both sizes if you want. Depending on how you use it you may need both.



Thanks....just what I needed to know. I'm going to order it up now.


----------



## ill_Ace

mach999 said:


> These are the ones I have minus the Neutriks that Chad already posted. The two on the left are the ones I got today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with the covers off. Sorry it's a little blurry.


where did you buy these? Can you give me a model number or a link? thanks.


----------



## less

I'd like to get a quick answer on the best size techflex to use is using 6mm cable =) Really - I want a tight nice fit and don't want to have to send it back for an exchange.

Interestingly enough, I spoke to a Canare rep today and he was telling me it wasn't the best bet, and to use some without twisted pair! Once I explained to him the car audio environment and how most high end audio users interest in phasing and in noise reduction... I think he slapped himself on the head and figured out how wrong he was. At first he went on and on about the properties of quad - and they all fit right in with what we want/need!

I'll be getting 100 ft of Canare Quad (white or grey), Canare narrow rca's and probably some "shimmer" colored tech flex tomorrow for my new Clarion DRZ9255. I'm thinking I will use a two color shrink tube scheme to identify the appropriate channel (sub, midbass, mid, tweeter) and left/right. Unless that is someone knows of a nice method to actually tag the channel names on a sleeve or something - I know its been done. Brother Ptouch labels look nice but I had problems with keeping them intact.

I honestly think I am more into this because its fun and I can make cables that I find visually appealing and high quality for les than I would spend on inferior high marketing value versions.

Weeee.. its fun getting new toys!


----------



## mach999

I've got some 6mm Mogami 2549 mic cable and 1/4" techflex works perfectly. The wire is exactly .236" and the techflex is .25".


----------



## less

You are my new hero! Seriously, I plan on buying this tomorrow and needed a prompt answer. I probably would have went this route anyhow, but now I can do it with confidence! Now if I can just figure out what color combo and RCAs to use =)


----------



## rsvchad

I just completed a set for a friend. This is using the Monster product I
mentioned earlier in this thread along with the ebay Streetwires ends.


----------



## sx_abella

Hi everyone!

I just got my cables done by my friend. Cables used was belden #8422 shielded twisted pair and connectors used was amphenol from Australia. My concern is that he soldered both the twisted pair and used it for the signal and used the shield as ground. I was wondering if its ok to do that since im following what this site suggested. 

http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/bulletproofing-your-system-from-interference

_"Connect one of the leads of the twisted pair to the ground shield at both ends of the of the cable at the RCA connector, and then connect the other or "hot" side of the twisted pair to the appropriate connection of the RCA connector. This gives you the shielding and RFI rejection of both the twisted pair and the ground shield. Think of this as a double ground if you like."_

any thoughts? im really concerned guys. btw, its my first post. thanks diyma!


----------



## sx_abella

Hi everyone!

I just got my cables done by my friend. Cables used was belden #8422 shielded twisted pair and connectors used was amphenol from Australia. My concern is that he soldered both the twisted pair and used it for the signal and used the shield as ground. I was wondering if its ok to do that since im following what this site suggested. 

http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/bulletproofing-your-system-from-interference

_"Connect one of the leads of the twisted pair to the ground shield at both ends of the of the cable at the RCA connector, and then connect the other or "hot" side of the twisted pair to the appropriate connection of the RCA connector. This gives you the shielding and RFI rejection of both the twisted pair and the ground shield. Think of this as a double ground if you like."_

any thoughts? im really concerned guys. thanks diyma!


----------



## invecs

Your wire capacitance will increase since you are using 2 conductors as "hot" signal. You may or may not hear a difference.


----------



## poochieone

Hi,
does anyone know where the two RCA`s on the Left can be purchased?
i can`t get a response from Mach999..
Thanks!!




mach999 said:


> These are the ones I have minus the Neutriks that Chad already posted. The two on the left are the ones I got today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with the covers off. Sorry it's a little blurry.


----------



## Entityofme1

An interesting article that can give some of you some ideas about making your own cables and what kind of role they need to serve in noise rejection...

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/humrejection.htm


----------



## chad

Entityofme1 said:


> An interesting article that can give some of you some ideas about making your own cables and what kind of role they need to serve in noise rejection...
> 
> http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/humrejection.htm


 Nice


----------



## sx_abella

sx_abella said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> I just got my cables done by my friend. Cables used was belden #8422 shielded twisted pair and connectors used was amphenol from Australia. My concern is that he soldered both the twisted pair and used it for the signal and used the shield as ground. I was wondering if its ok to do that since im following what this site suggested.
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/bulletproofing-your-system-from-interference
> 
> _"Connect one of the leads of the twisted pair to the ground shield at both ends of the of the cable at the RCA connector, and then connect the other or "hot" side of the twisted pair to the appropriate connection of the RCA connector. This gives you the shielding and RFI rejection of both the twisted pair and the ground shield. Think of this as a double ground if you like."_
> 
> any thoughts? im really concerned guys. thanks diyma!


any other thoughts? thanks guys


----------



## sx_abella

sx_abella said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> I just got my cables done by my friend. Cables used was belden #8422 shielded twisted pair and connectors used was amphenol from Australia. My concern is that he soldered both the twisted pair and used it for the signal and used the shield as ground. I was wondering if its ok to do that since im following what this site suggested.
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/bulletproofing-your-system-from-interference
> 
> _"Connect one of the leads of the twisted pair to the ground shield at both ends of the of the cable at the RCA connector, and then connect the other or "hot" side of the twisted pair to the appropriate connection of the RCA connector. This gives you the shielding and RFI rejection of both the twisted pair and the ground shield. Think of this as a double ground if you like."_
> 
> any thoughts? im really concerned guys. thanks diyma!


still waiting for more answers. thankyou diyma


----------



## Thumper26

from what i understand, having the ground soldered on one end is more ideal. it shouldn't be too hard to remove the rca end, and just cut the shielding loose from the ground on one end of the cable. or just hook it up and see if it works. if you don't have noise, then it's not an issue. if you do, just clip the wire.


----------



## chad

I ground the screen at one end and the drain of the pair at both ends. This way the shield cannot carry current.


----------



## old-school

Thanks to this thread, I bought me a bag of those ZN5.0 RCA heads from Ebay for cheap. Instead of going with the popular Gepco wire, I went for the tranditional coax style cable. I chose the Canare GS-4 guitar cable and it fits perfectly into the ZN5.0's 4mm opening. Here are some pics of the end results. Gotta admit...that techflex does make it look nice!!


----------



## Megalomaniac

question!

When making you own rcas using those 2 conductors and a shield. You are supose to use 1 conductor for center(pos) and the other for ground/neg. so does the shield just need to touch the ground neg post too? like the same post that the negative wire touches? (do i need to do it on both sides?)



edit: also where can i buy gepco 61801 by the foot? fullcompass only sells in 1k' roll on them


----------



## jeremyg

Megalomaniac said:


> edit: also where can i buy gepco 61801 by the foot? fullcompass only sells in 1k' roll on them



http://www.redco.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=134&cat=Gepco+Foil+Shield+Install+Cable


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> edit: also where can i buy gepco 61801 by the foot? fullcompass only sells in 1k' roll on them


A pro audio install house near you, they usually stock a ton of colors. I can get you the number for the belden equiv tomorrow as some like the belden, 6 of one half dozen of the other.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> A pro audio install house near you, they usually stock a ton of colors. I can get you the number for the belden equiv tomorrow as some like the belden, 6 of one half dozen of the other.


you got a response to my shielding question  please
thanks


----------



## chad

Already typed it out once today 

I do black to sleeve, red to pin.

Now the shield, I tie at one end (source) IF the sleeve is ground at the headunit (for example of source)

I took the hard way and pulled the drain wire out, bonded them together and grounded to the frame of the radio/ISO mount. This future-proofs me for balanced send in the near future, the amp has differential inputs. If I had the shiled tied the the amp sleeve any noise on the shield would make it to the inverting inputs of the amp and I would have phase inverted noise


----------



## Megalomaniac

ok so i can just pull out the wire and leave it hangiing as another lead that you just screw it to a chasis...

how come i see lots of people who just attachthe shield to the negative conductor?


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> ok so i can just pull out the wire and leave it hangiing as another lead that you just screw it to a chasis...


I actually split (like you are stripping it but just pulling it a BIT) the jacket back a couple inches and pulled the drain back thru the split, soldered a bit of wire on the drain, then heatshrinked the split and the slder joint, the jacket is easy to work with.



Megalomaniac said:


> how come i see lots of people who just attachthe shield to the negative conductor?


I plan to go full balanced, that would not work in that situation. If the source has a grounded sleeve then go for it.

And for the smartass question to the above.....

Because I build broadcast and recording facilities and I use an RF grounding/rejection system  And my whip is a noise NIGHTMARE!


----------



## Megalomaniac

thanks, so with rcas, i should have a wire hanging out for the shield ground and screw it to a screw on chasis of source.

what about with BNC cables? i see their shield is the ground cable....there is only 1 conductor for bnc... right?


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> thanks, so with rcas, i should have a wire hanging out for the shield ground and screw it to a screw on chasis of source.
> 
> what about with BNC cables? i see their shield is the ground cable....there is only 1 conductor for bnc... right?


Yeah, i pulled it out before the connector so it did not touch the internals of the connector.

BNC is used with true coax (and RCA can be too) but it's a whole different ball-game as it's as unbalanced as unbalanced gets


----------



## Megalomaniac

yea right now im working on those rj45 shielded to 6pin mini din using shielded cat5. its been easy so far.i just have to get that crimper now. but the foil shielding was kinda weird so what i had done was peeled it half way so the shiny part its peeled to the side some and then went over it with some tin foil then placed the metal shell around it(minidin)...i hope it doesnt impose a problem...


----------



## disturbedklownz

nice write up thanks


----------



## Megalomaniac

so i emailed BCAE about that shielding question of mine he said YES it will work 

heres the email I sent:



Me said:


> Hello, I was studying your site about how to build RCA cables and Im a little confused somewhere.
> 
> http://www.bcae1.com/rcacable.htm
> 
> 
> I noticed you used a BNC/coax type cable in the diagram where the shield was the negative.
> 
> My question is I have seen RCA cables that uses 2 conductor wires, 1 wire is positive and the other is for the negative. Then I hear the shield needs to be grounded externally(by having an extra wire hanging out of each rca that you secure to the metal source)
> 
> *Now on to my question, couldnt I just mount the braided/foil shield to the negative of the rca(along with the other negative wire) and it still function as a shield?(so there are no extra wires hanging out of the cable...*
> 
> If I am not being clear please let me know, I can try to clarify better.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Mir Farhan Ali~


He said this right under whats in bold.


Perry Babin said:


> YES


----------



## chad

I did not say tht you could not do that, I said that I did it to future proof the install for when I send balanced  the sleeve of the RCA will then be the inverting output just as the sleve of the amp is the inverting input. I's still only attach at one end though.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> I did not say tht you could not do that, I said that I did it to future proof the install for when I send balanced  the sleeve of the RCA will then be the inverting output just as the sleve of the amp is the inverting input. I's still only attach at one end though.


i know. its just my question was never answered directly  so i asked around. im teh newbs at indirect responses just like your sarcasm meter never works.


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> i know. its just my question was never answered directly  so i asked around. im teh newbs at indirect responses just like your sarcasm meter never works.


ha ha  My weird-****-o-meter works great though!


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> A pro audio install house near you, they usually stock a ton of colors. I can get you the number for the belden equiv tomorrow as some like the belden, 6 of one half dozen of the other.


My local Altex has Belden, but im not sure if its any good, does anyone have issues with belden? I ordered about 170' of that Gepco posted earlier yesterday.


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> My local Altex has Belden, but im not sure if its any good, does anyone have issues with belden? I ordered about 170' of that Gepco posted earlier yesterday.


8451 is the same as 61801EZ for the most part.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> 8451 is the same as 61801EZ for the most part.


thanks. knowing having these cables are available local is nice. i don't mind spending a few cents more just to have near by on demand. 

Chad, I got to show you them rj45 to din cables im working on. i'll post pics in a new thread when im finished


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> thanks. knowing having these cables are available local is nice. i don't mind spending a few cents more just to have near by on demand.
> 
> Chad, I got to show you them rj45 to din cables im working on. i'll post pics in a new thread when im finished


Hell yeah post them up!

I buy my Gepco locally, it was a bit more expensive but I got to hang with some old friends in the music store from back in the day and I did not have to pay/wait on shipping. and 6 different colors! Woot!


----------



## jeremyg

chad said:


> 8451 is the same as 61801EZ for the most part.


I really liked working with the Gepco 61801EZ cable...it does look pretty tiny in my Vampire RCA plugs though


----------



## chad

jeremyg said:


> I really liked working with the Gepco 61801EZ cable...it does look pretty tiny in my Vampire RCA plugs though


Yeah it does give that impression.. and you gotta go easy on the heat when soldering... did you discover that the hard way?


----------



## jeremyg

chad said:


> Yeah it does give that impression.. and you gotta go easy on the heat when soldering... did you discover that the hard way?


Didn't have any problems with the soldering the Gepco...learned the hard way on some Gotham GAC2 cable a few days earlier


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> Yeah it does give that impression.. and you gotta go easy on the heat when soldering... did you discover that the hard way?


orly, im using a 45 watt, i better watch out


----------



## Megalomaniac




----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


>


That will keep you busy for a while


----------



## iced

nice.
i couldnt get those rca connectors in aus unless i buy from ebay usa.

i measure the resistance of a 5m length of gepco after construction and it turned out pretty good.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> That will keep you busy for a while



actually 18 of them are being used now im working on 4 2channel cables and a single sub cable for someone. i will post pictures when i am done.

i did have to drill them opening bigger to allow the techflex fit through and heatshrink...


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> actually 18 of them are being used now im working on 4 2channel cables and a single sub cable for someone. i will post pictures when i am done.
> 
> i did have to drill them opening bigger to allow the techflex fit through and heatshrink...


That little indentation after the hole for the sleeve on the connector itself is a godsend! you will put that to good use  It's a tight threadding when there is wire in there


----------



## WrenchGuy

This thread exploded since I read it last.

I'm ready to try it out. I'm curious though to which cable to use as a rookie?

I'm looking for a good easy cable, quality but budget friendly RCA ends,and a good luck.

I figure I'm gonna be shopping Partsexpress and was gonna put the supplies in with other stuff.

Thanks Guys.


----------



## Megalomaniac

WrenchGuy said:


> This thread exploded since I read it last.
> 
> I'm ready to try it out. I'm curious though to which cable to use as a rookie?
> 
> I'm looking for a good easy cable, quality but budget friendly RCA ends,and a good luck.
> 
> I figure I'm gonna be shopping Partsexpress and was gonna put the supplies in with other stuff.
> 
> Thanks Guys.


http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=656


----------



## WrenchGuy

Megalomaniac said:


> http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=656


Word! Thanks man.


----------



## Richard

Since you're making your own cables and, presumably will using high quality plugs, I'd suggest a similarly high quality cable, like Canare's Star Quad. it's not 15 cents a foot but, like most items, you get what you pay for. 

Richard


----------



## WrenchGuy

My setup is real simple. I don't have processors and all the jazz. I mostly want to make them to get the skill.


----------



## chad

Richard said:


> Since you're making your own cables and, presumably will using high quality plugs, I'd suggest a similarly high quality cable, like Canare's Star Quad. it's not 15 cents a foot but, like most items, you get what you pay for.
> 
> Richard


Yes you do, the virtues of "portable cable" It's rugged, rolls nicely, feels great, lays flat... all the virtues not needed for car audio... Where as a cable that's 15-20 cents a foot can have and will likely have a higher shielding and lower capacitance per foot. 

So yes, you do get what you pay for but you have to look at the application, a Cessna is more expensive than my Civic, but the civic is a better application for my daily commute to and from work


----------



## WrenchGuy

chad said:


> Yes you do, the virtues of "portable cable" It's rugged, rolls nicely, feels great, lays flat... all the virtues not needed for car audio... Where as a cable that's 15-20 cents a foot can have and will likely have a higher shielding and lower capacitance per foot.
> 
> So yes, you do get what you pay for but you have to look at the application, a Cessna is more expensive than my Civic, but the civic is a better application for my daily commute to and from work


Word! I was worried about buying stage cables on accident. I knew I didn't need all the beef! Thanks for the insight.


----------



## saucybmw540i

im about to give some cables the sexy time !


----------



## sword2

It looks neat!


----------



## Richard

"Where as a cable that's 15-20 cents a foot can have and will likely have a higher shielding and lower capacitance per foot." 

You're joking, aren't you? Show me a cable at 20 cents/foot that has 98% braiding and lower resistance than Star Quad or similar cable.


----------



## illnastyimpreza

I can't seem to find those steetwires RCA male ends ...

whats the Ebay link again ??


----------



## t3sn4f2

Richard said:


> "Where as a cable that's 15-20 cents a foot can have and will likely have a higher shielding and lower capacitance per foot."
> 
> You're joking, aren't you? Show me a cable at 20 cents/foot that has 98% braiding and lower resistance than Star Quad or similar cable.


http://www.gepco.com/products/residential_cable/audio/ll_single_22awg_F.htm

It's 100% shielded and 15 cents only though


----------



## chad

Richard said:


> You're joking, aren't you? Show me a cable at 20 cents/foot that has 98% braiding and lower resistance than Star Quad or similar cable.


Star quad is fine for it's APPLICATION, stage cabling. There are better choices for permanent wiring applications. Why do you feel you need 4 conductors for UNBALANCED audio transfer?


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> Star quad is fine for it's APPLICATION, stage cabling. There are better choices for permanent wiring applications. Why do you feel you need 4 conductors for UNBALANCED audio transfer?


for real man^^x2. In a car there is no way you can tell the difference in loss signal degration. but stage use maybe 2-300'+ you _might_ be able to tell, but 12' hand in hand, i honestly doubt it, and thats speaking _realistically_.


----------



## t3sn4f2

Megalomaniac said:


> for real man^^x2. In a car there is no way you can tell the difference in loss signal degration. but stage use maybe 2-300'+ you _might_ be able to tell, but 12' hand in hand, i honestly doubt it, and thats speaking _realistically_.


 The gepco performs better electrically in those long run situations as well.


----------



## chad

t3sn4f2 said:


> The gepco performs better electrically in those long run situations as well.


Less capacitance


----------



## Megalomaniac

t3sn4f2 said:


> The gepco performs better electrically in those long run situations as well.


that just goes to show even more(if thats true...) that the quadstar is even more_ unnecessary 
_



chad said:


> Less capacitance


yerp


----------



## illnastyimpreza

no more links for cheap RCA connectors???

Are all those street wires ones gone ???


----------



## Megalomaniac

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290206286972


----------



## illnastyimpreza

Nuts they seem to be all out of the RCA connectors...

I guess I'm gona pick up a bunch of other stuff I need from them in the meanwhile. They've got some awesome deals on regular crimp on connectors too.

any other Deals on big bags of RCAs goin on ??


----------



## fredridge

question here, how small of a gauge can you go for the wire.... I was thinking of picking up some snake cable and using that.... it is usually shielded with 3 wires for a common ground.

basically something like this, but the 4 pair version


----------



## chad

fredridge said:


> question here, how small of a gauge can you go for the wire.... I was thinking of picking up some snake cable and using that.... it is usually shielded with 3 wires for a common ground.
> 
> basically something like this, but the 4 pair version


IMHO it's best to go Gepco/Belden as it will lay flat when you want it to, snake WILL NOT no matter how hard you try. if you do go snake look into Gepflex, it's neoprene (I believe) and will put up with darn near anything and is very flexible.


----------



## fredridge

i was hoping you would look at this.

this is a belden cable, but I don't know what the model is.... I will go with some of the others




chad said:


> IMHO it's best to go Gepco/Belden as it will lay flat when you want it to, snake WILL NOT no matter how hard you try. if you do go snake look into Gepflex, it's neoprene (I believe) and will put up with darn near anything and is very flexible.


----------



## chad

Individual jacketed pairs will lay flat, you can put it where you want it ala tape, and I mean damn flat, it's running down my passenger footwell and you CANNOT feel it thru the carpet


----------



## ringo

Can one use multi conductor cable (I am running 4 pair) for running video and audio or should you run them seperately in two completely different cables?


----------



## QtrHorse

illnastyimpreza said:


> no more links for cheap RCA connectors???
> 
> Are all those street wires ones gone ???


The Ebay seller has four (50pc) lots left.


----------



## ringo

I just one in the mail....!

Anyone got an answer on my video cable question?


----------



## Megalomaniac

ringo said:


> I just one in the mail....!
> 
> Anyone got an answer on my video cable question?


you can run them in same cable. however _generally _video uses a thicker gauge wire


----------



## ringo

Megalomaniac said:


> you can run them in same cable. however _generally _video uses a thicker gauge wire


So using a pair for one signal would take care of that..?


----------



## Megalomaniac

ringo said:


> So using a pair for one signal would take care of that..?


sure, but you should try it out and see to be honest. i mean your cables arent that long so you wont need to use a thicker gauge that bad


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

great read. just the info i was looking for.

some of the terminology is beyond me and i have a question; how would you go about grounding the foil shield of the gepco wire?


----------



## WrenchGuy

If you get XLM and in turn make it unbalanced wouldn't a well insulated speaker cable be the same thing?

I was gonna take the Gepco I have and run the cable through some blue gas line and heatshrink each end. Instead of tech flex. Sound good?..lol


----------



## Megalomaniac

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> great read. just the info i was looking for.
> 
> some of the terminology is beyond me and i have a question; how would you go about grounding the foil shield of the gepco wire?


you peel the foil off, and ground the expose wire you will see. that wire runs throughout the wire and touches the foil. so just solder the exposed wire to ground


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

duh... should have looked at the picture. i knew it was a stupid question...

thanks.


----------



## slowsedan01

That guy on ebay has those lots of Street Wires RCA plugs available again.


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

does anybody know of quality rca splitters to make a diy y cable?


----------



## chad

You just need a female and 2 male connectors.


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

i was thinking something more along the lines of this with solderable connections:










for no other purpose than looking/being awesome.


----------



## mobeious

i think imma pick up a roll of that cable 

anyone know a site to get some decent rca ends? that wont hurt the bank to bad


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

google the NEUTRIK NYS352. $.75 here:

http://stores.channeladvisor.com/daleproaudio/items/item.aspx?itemid=1534380


----------



## Boostedrex

Is $0.93/each for the Neutrik NYS373 a good price? I haven't found them too many places yet, but that's the best price I've seen so far. Thanks in advance guys.

Zach


----------



## Kpg2713

I use Neutrik NYS352 at 68 cents per. They are at Redco.


----------



## Boostedrex

I saw the NYS352, but I never was a fan of shiny metal RCA connector ends. I know it's nit picking, but I like the flat black body of the NYS373 better. The cosmetics are the only difference from what I can tell.


----------



## Kpg2713

I think the knurling on the body is a little different too. Honestly, if you want the flat black it is cool, I don't think there will be any performance difference so it is all preference.


----------



## Kpg2713

OK, the 352B is the one that is black version of the 352 while the 373 is different. It has a tension sleeve whatever you wanna call it and different body. 

352B









373









So let me see if I can find some 352B black bodied ones.


----------



## soundqdoug

I had really great results in my accord, when I use to compete with it. I used the higher end Audioquest silver plated RCA ends with Audioquest Type 4 speaker wire. I also used techflex.


----------



## chad

Boostedrex said:


> Is $0.93/each for the Neutrik NYS373 a good price? I haven't found them too many places yet, but that's the best price I've seen so far. Thanks in advance guys.
> 
> Zach


Yes, those are great connectors for the price, strain relief, chuck style stay, easy to work with. I have some pics of them somewhere around here.


----------



## Boostedrex

I sent in a price request to Gepco and they quoted me $0.10/ft for the 61801EZ cable. The only catch is that I have to order 500ft of it because they have a $50 minimum buy. Anybody want to go half with me as there is no way in hell that I am going to need 500' for cable?


----------



## Kpg2713

Sure. I need some more cable so why not


----------



## Megalomaniac

i ordered the tci500 spool last night the 250' roll. i ran out(well practically out, just like 20' left) of the tci 1000


----------



## cvjoint

Perhaps I'm missing something but:

Aren't these custom RCA jacks a bit too long and obtrusive for car audio? I could tell you for sure that none of the custom jobs I've seen here would even fit under my endcaps.

Secondly, I don't trust my soldering job as much as say Monster Cable. How resistant are the connections themselves to pulling and twisting? 


I've seen one poster ask this question before without an answer and this would be the only reason why I might get into all this, spend my time and more money than on Monster: can you customize the cable such that it negates the need for a Y splitter? One male rca at one end, two males at the other with a custom lenght where needed to fit the install. 

I don't want to bash on all the good information I've seen here, it's one of the best threads on this forum. But...where are the benefits?


----------



## Megalomaniac

custom length....thats about it lol and knowing whats all inside your cable, no guessing games


----------



## amapro704

I've seen monsters come apart. Hand soldering is just fine if you know what you're doing and heatshrink the connection. All I know is that I have about $0.07 into each foot of wire and the connectors are cheap as well, so with everything I can have a custom cable exactly how I need it for 1/3 the cost of Monster. Custom colors and looks as well to match everything else in your install is a nice touch. 

Reg RCA's work just fine obviously and trust me, I have had these same thoughts bouncing betwix the halves of my brain also, but when it comes down to it its cheap, its easy and its kinda fun to build them.


I am wanting to build a custom splitter cable also. I have 1 channel cable and was thinking about using speaker Y boots and heatshrink to make it clean. Anybody done this?


----------



## Boostedrex

cvjoint said:


> Secondly, I don't trust my soldering job as much as say Monster Cable. How resistant are the connections themselves to pulling and twisting?


George,

Typically, I would agree with you. However, I spent the last 10 years as an aircraft electrician. So needless to say, my soldering skills are better than average. To me, I trust my soldering more than I would a company. But that's also just me. This method ends up to be WAY cheaper than buying commercial cable, even from Darvex or other Ebay vendors.

Zach


----------



## Kpg2713

I used to work for a company that manufactured devices for marine use. When I started there I couldn't solder ****, yet they had me doing it all the same. Just because a company is making the product doesn't mean they know what they are doing either.


----------



## cvjoint

well, I can get the monster for 1/3 the price of monster lol. I've seen some folks pay $5 a pop for an end, that's insanely expensive - 20 bucks for a 2 channel cable = crazy. 

Here's the ones I was looking at:










Those ends are so tiny, I couldn't imagine being able to replicate these. I see now there are many of you guys that have skills to go though with it. Even if I do diy it's still just half diy, I still have to buy the splitters. Out of the 8 channels that come out of the h701 6 of them need y adapters.


----------



## Kpg2713

I don't think there is anything wrong with running rca's that are bought. Honestly, I did it because it cost me like 30 bucks in wire and 70 cents an rca connector. Also, to me anyway it was enjoyable. I like making my own stuff, and if I can do it cheap thats cool with me. I don't see why someone would use expensive rca's in a car. I know it isn't going to sound any different.


----------



## Megalomaniac

my 250' spool of tci500 came in today, this wire is hella more flexible compared to the tci1000


----------



## mobeious

where can u get those tiny plugs in the previous pic


----------



## Inferno333

Megalomaniac said:


> my 250' spool of tci500 came in today, this wire is hella more flexible compared to the tci1000


I'm going to grab a couple spools of that in the next week or so.

Thanks for buying both and giving us your impressions!


----------



## cvjoint

mobeious said:


> where can u get those tiny plugs in the previous pic


A buddy of mine has a hook up on all Monster gear. 

Honestly I do believe in RCA shielding benefits. I had these monsters before in the 6 channel version and I had no alt. whine whatsoever. Changed to top of the line tsunami 6 ft. just to go from processor to amps. and any tiny touching on the chassis or power cables will bring it in. 

I'd like to make my own RCAs too for anything around $1 for a small format plug or less but if I can't get around the y splitters I don't see the point.


----------



## mobeious

found these
http://cgi.ebay.com/8pcs-NAKAMICHI-...ryZ32838QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and these
http://cgi.ebay.com/8pcs-NAKAMICHI-...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


----------



## amapro704

You can make your own y cables too. I ran those monsters and liked them ok except for that they actually grabbed the female rca too tight- almost need a wrench to take them off. I though I was going to break something.

The tiff cable also has sheilding so I don't know what you're refering to there..


----------



## JonMR2turbo

Hey guys, today I began my first attempt at making RCAs. This was also my first time doing any kind of soldering. Could you guys critique my joints and give me advice for doing them better? They're pretty ugly but they do hold well. 

http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239284-1/IMG_1511.jpg
http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239287-1/IMG_1513.jpg
http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239290-1/IMG_1517.jpg
http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239293-1/IMG_1518.jpg

I also wonder if the gun I have is too low of a wattage. It doesn't heat the connector enough that I can apply solder directly to it. Instead I have to melt the solder on the tip of the gun and then kind of smear it down onto the connector.


----------



## chad

Tin the wire first, use a nice THIN solder, I love the thin stuff, go quicker on and off with the heat. It takes practice, you will quickly get the hang of it! If they work, rock them


----------



## Megalomaniac

JonMR2turbo said:


> Hey guys, today I began my first attempt at making RCAs. This was also my first time doing any kind of soldering. Could you guys critique my joints and give me advice for doing them better? They're pretty ugly but they do hold well.
> 
> http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239284-1/IMG_1511.jpg
> http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239287-1/IMG_1513.jpg
> http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239290-1/IMG_1517.jpg
> http://www.carpron.com/multisite/d/239293-1/IMG_1518.jpg
> 
> I also wonder if the gun I have is too low of a wattage. It doesn't heat the connector enough that I can apply solder directly to it. Instead I have to melt the solder on the tip of the gun and then kind of smear it down onto the connector.


Tin your wires first, it will make it hell of a lot easier after that. also will protect the copper wire from oxidizing.


----------



## mobeious

got my tci500 in just waiting on my plugs from japan sucks 25day shipping


----------



## JonMR2turbo

Does anyone know a good source for inexpensive bulk RCA ends? Like around 40-50?




chad said:


> Tin the wire first, use a nice THIN solder, I love the thin stuff, go quicker on and off with the heat. It takes practice, you will quickly get the hang of it! If they work, rock them


I bought a solder iron with a pointed tip and some thin solder like you said and now I can do it pretty well (at least for being new).


----------



## chad

JonMR2turbo said:


> I bought a solder iron with a pointed tip and some thin solder like you said and now I can do it pretty well (at least for being new).


yeah man, having the right tools makes your life A LOT easier 

Watch eBay for a Weller WTCPT station, one can be had for around 40 bucks if you are crafty. they are my faves!


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> yeah man, having the right tools makes your life A LOT easier
> 
> Watch eBay for a Weller WTCPT station, one can be had for around 40 bucks if you are crafty. they are my faves!


I had one, I gave it to my cousin. wasnt portable enough for me. I also did steal it from school back in high school when I use to be a nerd who pretended to be a thug. :/


----------



## ogahyellow

Megalomaniac said:


> I had one, I gave it to my cousin. wasnt portable enough for me. I also did steal it from school back in high school when I use to be a nerd who pretended to be a thug. :/


Sounds like how my brother got a triple beam balance.

Quick Q's: If you guys are making 2 channel RCA's are you using zip-style cord, or just 2 strands of mic cord techflexed?


----------



## daGwagon

Awsome... one more thing to add to my todo list... great tutorial


----------



## peter_bigblock

Megalomaniac said:


> you peel the foil off, and ground the expose wire you will see. that wire runs throughout the wire and touches the foil. so just solder the exposed wire to ground


but just on the source end for unbalanced, right? according to chad, i think. i know a lot of this has been said several times but the terminology is new to me so I want to make sure. man, i can't wait to make my own cables -- a new diy for me! in terms of using techflex, if i'm running the cables under my carpet, isn't techflex a detriment -- makes the cable fatter and doesn't really add anything? or am i missing something?


----------



## AzGrower

ogahyellow said:


> Quick Q's: If you guys are making 2 channel RCA's are you using zip-style cord, or just 2 strands of mic cord techflexed?


Just use 4 conductor wire like the Canar Star Quad L-E46S. Fits perfect into the Parts Express speaker pants.


----------



## chad

Red all the way thru for the pin, black all the way thru for the sleeve, shield at the source only.


----------



## peter_bigblock

chad said:


> Red all the way thru for the pin, black all the way thru for the sleeve, shield at the source only.


Thanks, man! I can't believe you don't get tired of saying that.:blush:


----------



## AzGrower

peter_bigblock said:


> Thanks, man! I can't believe you don't get tired of saying that.:blush:


monkeys are trained well....feed them regularly, and change their diaper and they can go all day....


----------



## chad

AzGrower said:


> monkeys are trained well....feed them regularly, and change their diaper and they can go all day....


Sometimes they don't even change the diaper! State cut-backs can be a *****!


----------



## chijioke penny

made my first set of RCA's last night !!!! turned out f'n bad azz'd!!!!!!! thanks for the "How too"...it helped!!!


----------



## lyttleviet

me and my friends definitely want to try this. Aznattic been talking about it during our installation process!


----------



## Kpg2713

ogahyellow said:


> Sounds like how my brother got a triple beam balance.
> 
> Quick Q's: If you guys are making 2 channel RCA's are you using zip-style cord, or just 2 strands of mic cord techflexed?


I've used zip style mic cable and it worked np as well as doing 2 runs. I have not tried running two channels within one cable like 4 wire canare or something but it should work fine too. Pick what you like best.


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

still looking for a delicate solution to making y cables. any of you pro-audio guys have any suggestions.


----------



## chad

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> still looking for a delicate solution to making y cables. any of you pro-audio guys have any suggestions.


How handy are you?


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

i consider myself somewhere between intermediate and advanced as far as what i could see being pertinent to this project. i have designed and built circuits for other applications and am comfortable with wiring and a soldering iron. i do not have the facilities for fabrication but assembly of off the shelf parts is not an issue.


----------



## chad

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> i consider myself somewhere between intermediate and advanced as far as what i could see being pertinent to this project. i have designed and built circuits for other applications and am comfortable with wiring and a soldering iron. i do not have the facilities for fabrication but assembly of off the shelf parts is not an issue.


What kinda wire do you plan on using?


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

i have 100' of gepco 61801EZ and neutrik NYS373 rca plugs. i had considered just running 2 lengths of wire per channel, but they will not both fit through the strain relief springs. i want to do a test run making a 3.5mm to stereo rca cable.


----------



## chad

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> i have 100' of gepco 61801EZ and neutrik NYS373 rca plugs. i had considered just running 2 lengths of wire per channel, but they will not both fit through the strain relief springs. i want to do a test run making a 3.5mm to stereo rca cable.


Good ****, let me look around at the connectors.

For a quick fix you can start the Y on the beginning end with a switchcraft 3502A but it won't match. I have both here and some gepco, lemme see if I can rig something good looking.


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

what do you think about using the NYS352BG on the source end? looks like the opening would be just big enough (.2mm clearance lol) to use dual runs.

*edit - or the 373 without the strain relief?


----------



## chad

I was thinking the 373 without the strain, but I have to see how the chuck cinches


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

good to se we're on the same page. when i mocked it up i did it without the chuck. since the end in question will be connected behind the dash i could just heat shrink it (clear of course, don't want to hide the pretty plugs ) to help provide some relief (that's what the chuck is for right?), or would that not be enough?


----------



## chad

BLACKonBLACK98 said:


> good to se we're on the same page. when i mocked it up i did it without the chuck. since the end in question will be connected behind the dash i could just heat shrink it (clear of course, don't want to hide the pretty plugs ) to help provide some relief (that's what the chuck is for right?), or would that not be enough?


Same page, I was thinking black shrink in place of the chuck/spring to make it pretty.

I'll try to mock it up tonight but I have a lot on the plate to get done.


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

no worries. i'm in no rush. i just haven't had much to do lately so i try and keep busy. let me know whenever you have time and get something together. i appreciate it.

*edit - btw i was referring to heat shinking over the entire assembly from female to male. black heat shrink to bond the two wires together before the techflex as well.


----------



## BKJT05

anybody make any 4-channel? liked to see those?


----------



## theothermike

i prefer seperate 2 channels even if i have a 4 channel amp. it helps if you change your setup around.


----------



## BKJT05

yea, but i dont plan to change it after this and if like one single run of wire to hook everything up. and i want to go custom RCAs so its all the perfect length.


----------



## chad

theothermike said:


> i prefer seperate 2 channels even if i have a 4 channel amp. it helps if you change your setup around.


I prefer one run per channel, but I'm a redundant prick


----------



## DeadlyHertz

hell with this ill go to radio shack and get sme ends. can i just to to Lowes and get some of that 14ga Philipsspeaker wire and use that or does it have to be that shielded crap. Scosche RCA are just speaker wire so i guess ill try it! great tutorial tho. my dad got a soldering gun for his B-day so ill get him to teach me how to solder. FYI for air conditioner Line Sets that run from the condinser unit to the evaporator coil you use silber solder to connect those joints as well.


----------



## jimsan

I can vouch for the Neutrik connectors, very solid connectors. I will make 6 new runs for my install and use the idea of the shrink wrap over wire end which I didnt do before.

Is there really a difference in balanced and unbalanced for car application?

J


----------



## BKJT05

hey guys, where can i get these RCA ends??


----------



## BLACKonBLACK98

they were on ebay in bulk packs for cheap but i'm pretty sure they're gone now. they pop up in the fs section sometimes. there might be some there now.


----------



## BKJT05

i found some on CA.com, but the guy wants $3ea...so im still looking


----------



## splvictim19

very nice walkthrough man very nice & detailed information


----------



## BKJT05

hey guys, can i use this cable...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=100-246


----------



## Megalomaniac

BKJT05 said:


> hey guys, can i use this cable...
> 
> http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=100-246


Yes you can use that cable


----------



## BKJT05

cool, is it anygood to use though??? i got my RCA connectors so im gonna order thw wire etc sooN!


----------



## BKJT05

hey guys, before i order the wrong sizes etc(ive read this entire thread) What size techflex should i use, i need some that i can run 2-4 runs of the micro cable through, i gonna make a 4-channel cable and a 2-channel cable?


----------



## basebalz13

nice tutorial


----------



## BKJT05

well guys, i got everything i need to make my own rcas, except my rcas havent came yet! haha...


----------



## BKJT05

update, first set of RCAs made....check it out....


----------



## veloze

WOW!!  awesome job BKJT05, I whish I had those. 

I'm going to install the H701 next to my amp rack, and I'll need one 4 channel (2 ft) and one 2 channel (2 ft) also. If I had the tools & time, I'll definitely target this project.


----------



## BKJT05

haha, thanks for the compliment, but i just went outside and tried them out and they dont work, i think my hot signal is touch my ground so its not working...but they sure do look good! haha


----------



## BKJT05

i dont know if i really like the RCA connectors either, very hard to screw together and stay together, i was able to just pull it off without screwing it...gonna reseach better connectors


----------



## chad

Do you need the stubbyness of that connector to fit in a tight spot?


----------



## BKJT05

no, kinda big actually....


----------



## chad

http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_1502326954/NYS373-__detail.aspx

Larger but FAR superior, I'm shocked at the low price for the quality, can be found at Markertek.


----------



## guitarsail

chad said:


> http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_1502326954/NYS373-__detail.aspx
> 
> Larger but FAR superior, I'm shocked at the low price for the quality, can be found at Markertek.


Hey I have a couple doze of those in red and black for when I get around to making all my RCA's...VERY NICE connectors. Yay for Neutrik!


----------



## BKJT05

Hey guys, went ahead and made another set of RCAs, changed it up a bit, took my time, and did exactly what chad said to do when soldering, on one end i soldered the black and silver together and to the ground, and the red to the signal spot, and the other end i used heat shrink to hold the silver outta the way, then black to ground and red to signal.....took my time and they came out GREAT.....now i just hope they work. Anyways here are some pics for u guys to judge!

Side with shield...









Side with shield held back...









Finished...


----------



## chad

That should fly!

I'd a gone a little farther forward with the heatshrink on the yellow end to hide the fold-back from contact and utilized the cable clamp, I need to find my pics of those connectors on gepco if I have them.


----------



## BKJT05

cool, im gonna go outside and try them out here soon, if they dont work i give up, but im pretty sure they will.


----------



## BKJT05

cables kinda worked, i had to pull the ends apart and make sure nothing was touch which of course it was, but after seperating the touching parts, I have clean sound!!! I think im gonna use liquid electrical tape on my next cables to make sure evrything is seperated and sealed? would that work?


----------



## Megalomaniac

I need to buy me a "helping hand"


----------



## chad

I'll whip one up when I get home and show you some trix


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## BKJT05

cool, i appreciate the help....


----------



## chad

OK, I did this FAST, this is not photo studio quality. And the bench was trashed.

You need stuff:











Score the Gepco with a razor knife, don't cut thru, if you see black/red cut it and do it over.









Bend the score back and forth to snap the jacket and pull, this is why they call it 61801*EZ* It comes apart, the foil shield is bonded to the jacket:










This is for the source end, take the black wire and strip it even whit the outer jacket, twist it around the drain wire:









Put your connector sleeve on then the heatshrink, then fil the solder cup fr the signal lead with solder:









Test fit the connection, put the twisted drain and neg thru the hole in the back like so:









Trim and tin the signal lead to fit INSIDE the cup you filled with solder:









Now, with the drain thru the hole and the red wire out of the way melt the solder in the cup, slip the tinned wire into the cup and get the heat off quick. If you are sloppy you will mangle the insulation, it don't like too much heat:









Bend the wire into the detent in the back, bend the remainder up:









Flow solder over the wires and into the detent, hold in place with a pick or small screwdriver, you will end up with this:









Snip the remainder of the wire off that's sticking up and file the solder blob down with a small file, sometimes I get ballzy and tap it on the bench grinder if I have a bunch of them. It will look like this:









Close the cable clasp, don't go crazy, sometimes you can, sometimes you can't go nuts, just judge the tightness with how much exposed wire there is and how much movement there will be:









Slip the shrink up over the works and hit it with heat:









Let the shrink cool than do the obvious:









Have a sip of beer and do the next one. It should take 1-2 min per end with cool time, dressed and ready to rock.


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## BKJT05

Wow, very very nice and smart! i will deffinitly do that with my new RCAs when they arrive.


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## chad

The shrink will hold the wire well, AND you can heat it, bend, it and hold it to make Ghetto Right Angle connectors like I did on my install  IF YOU USE GLUE-LINED SHRINK.

Chad


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## Megalomaniac

sexy


----------



## BKJT05

i think im addicted to making RCA cables, i baught more RCAs and more wire just for the heck of it to build rca cables...and some techflex from redco that looks different then the PE stuff, cant wait to check it out.


----------



## chad

What's he tek fleks fer?


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## BKJT05

the rcas, i ran out.


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## chad

Does it make them work better?


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> What's he tek fleks fer?


I tech flex mine to bound the together  


ignore the fact im a crack addict on the flex :blush:


----------



## chad

I DID not techflex mine because I like them to lay flat, which indeed is one of the beauties of this cable! 6 runs of this stuff bundled together will certainly take some room or leave a hump.

And the fact that I don't have that much time on my hands not really care what my wires look like under a false floor


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> I DID not techflex mine because I like them to lay flat, which indeed is one of the beauties of this cable! 6 runs of this stuff bundled together will certainly take some room or leave a hump.
> 
> And the fact that I don't have that much time on my hands not really care what my wires look like under a false floor


i thought you used plastic loom in your car?


----------



## BKJT05

got my new RCAs today (Neutrik NYS 352), techflex, and some more wire in 4 different colors. The RCAs look pretty darn nice, but the male end doesnt seem as solid as the Streetwires ends, but overall they look good. The techflex i ordered from redco also seems pretty nice, seens like its made of something something different then the PE techflex...anyways ill have some rcas to show off later tonight...


----------



## BKJT05




----------



## BKJT05

i came to the conclusion that for the price, i like these RCA connectors better then the streetwires. i think i paid .75 each or something like that which makes them better then the $1+ ea for the streetwires.


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> i thought you used plastic loom in your car?


Under the hood only to match the stock wiring.


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## Megalomaniac

im ordering them connectors from marketek right now. 4 black, 4 red, 4 blue. thought i should just color code my connectors for next season. Anything I should put in my cart you think i might need?


----------



## Megalomaniac

Shipping Method: UPS Ground (ESTIMATED shipping cost = $11.11)

12 [NYS373-BK] Neutrik RCA Plug with Gold Contacts - Black @$1.25/ea = $15.00
4 [NYS373-BE] Neutrik RCA Plug with Gold Contacts - Blue @$1.25/ea = $5.00
2 [2000-1] Markertek Catalog - Latest Edition @$0.00/ea = $0.00
1 [NL2MP] Neutrik NL2MP 2 Pole Chassis Mount Solder Type Speakon Connector @$1.90/ea = $1.90
1 [NL2FC] Neutrik NL2FC 2 Pole Inline Female Speakon Connector @$2.29/ea = $2.29


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## BKJT05

got all my rcas made for my install. lol i got like 6 sets of rcas now, and only need 3 of them.


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## pulser9

cool idea


----------



## dblover

very good post. Might build my own rca now


----------



## QtrHorse

What was the consensus on the different bulk RCA wire; Gepco, Tiff TCI1000 and the Tiff TCI500? Both of the Tiff bulk RCA cable is from the Ebay link that most bought it and the Streetwires RCA ends from. How would you rate the three? I believe the Tiff TCI500 had a shield and the TCI1000 did not, correct?


----------



## BKJT05

made a new set today!


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## lust4sound

chad said:


> Good job! Very acceptable for unbalanced connections!
> 
> Chad


I did a couple of home theater installs for a company called Theater extreme.

There they showed me how to use compress fit RCA ends with a type of wire that they have massive spools of. The end connects go into a tool that compresses/presses the connector securely to the wire (you insert connector into tool, strip wire, insert wire end into connector and squeeze the tool which compresses the connector securely to the wire. Kind of like a press. The wire itself is a type of coax comes in a myriad of colors. Would this make for good car audio connects?

If so, I could get any length for any job for next to nothing.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

I forgot to mention. The wire is a type of coax, much thinner than your standard TV Cable type, but the wire inside is thicker. So it's a beefier gage wire with thinner plastic insulation as compared to standard home TV/Cable type coax. It has a beefy stranded silver wire woven type shield that you pull back on the cable itself after you've stripped off a small part of the insulation, then inside is another wire, beefy solid copper also with it's own thin insulation.. This all goes into the connector which is then compressed. It makes a single channel wire. Is the solid copper core and the stranded silver shield not a good cable for a single channel connect?

BTW, I ruined one end of a single channel run/connect my first try, so as a test in durability, I tied the bare end of the wire securely around a pipe then tried to pull the properly executed connect off the good end of the wire it was compressed onto. I used pliers to pull on the connector in an attempt to pull it off the wire. It took a severe amount of pull to finally yank it free, I had to give it a serious tug to yank it off. Point is, once it's on there, it's on there. No question with regard to durability. Question is, would it make for an excellent/good/decent/crappy signal carrier?


----------



## chad

How many channels do you want to run?

Can you solder? (since you did install work)


----------



## chad

DIYMA Automatic Dupe Feature


----------



## chad

Free but a PITA (after reading your edit) Just use Gepco or Belden, it's thin, easy, and lays flat if you don't tex-flecks it.

20 cents a foot mang


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## lust4sound

chad said:


> Free but a PITA (after reading your edit) Just use Gepco or Belden, it's thin, easy, and lays flat if you don't tex-flecks it.
> 
> 20 cents a foot mang


My short term ferret headed memory prevented me from remembering the names of the cable and connects. So I just went to parts express. 

It's the mini RG-59 cable, and the F-Conn compression type connects, gold plated, RGB-22/24 I believe. 

There are two tools used, one strips both parts of the insulation in the wire to perfect lengths for an easy 1/2/3 compress fit. The other tool does the compression. The whole procedure takes about 10 seconds once you get the hang of it. Real easy to do. 

Also, Mini RG-59 is sold in rolls that contain anywhere from 1 to I believe more than 8 individual wires within a single shroud/tube/wire, whatever you want to call it. So you can run multiple channels from one cable so to speak. Each mini cable within the main shroud is of a different color, so theres no confusion if using more than a single channel run.

It is mostly for Hometheater use (R,G,B) but I read that it is also good for digital and analog audio signals.

Not a good alternative to solder? Now that I'm thinking about it, the automotive environment being what it is, maybe not..

Would that cable (RG-59) be a good conductor/signal carrier if used in solder type connectors? Again, can get it free, already have the tools to strip it 1/2/3 which is why I ask.

I don't mind paying for good wire to make the right connections, but the fact that the home theater place is right down the street and I can just walk in and help myself to whatever, begs me to question.

Let me know what you think.

Regards.
Eggz.

Chad, your Avatar KILLS!! No pun intended..


----------



## lust4sound

But wait a second, what if I packed some of that oxidation inhibiting, silicone type electronics grease stuff into the compression fittings? No worries about oxidation of the compress fittings.

Still the question, will it be a good signal carrier?

If so, all is free for me thanks to Theater Extreme.. I would just have to buy grease..I own the tools.

Yes I can solder, but this is so much easier. But if it won't work, then so be it, it's back to soldering.


----------



## chad

lust4sound said:


> But wait a second, what if I packed some of that oxidation inhibiting, silicone type electronics grease stuff into the compression fittings? No worries about oxidation of the compress fittings.
> 
> Still the question, will it be a good signal carrier?
> 
> If so, all is free for me thanks to Theater Extreme.. I would just have to buy grease..I own the tools.
> 
> Yes I can solder, but this is so much easier. But if it won't work, then so be it, it's back to soldering.


Wait, Wait, I have some Neutrik connectors at work that rig well with a crimp and 2 blobs of solder, Lemme look at the model number tomorrow. Prolly cheaper than compression fittings for RF and are easy/work well.

I use that Mini in my unbalanced studios  

(for all the Moogs, Arps, and stuff.... geeks )


----------



## lust4sound

chad said:


> Wait, Wait, I have some Neutrik connectors at work that rig well with a crimp and 2 blobs of solder, Lemme look at the model number tomorrow. Prolly cheaper than compression fittings for RF and are easy/work well.
> 
> I use that Mini in my unbalanced studios
> 
> (for all the Moogs, Arps, and stuff.... geeks )


I don't know why I carry on like this. It's almost as if I expect someone to come out and say Gee, thats a great idea, thanks for contributing, you're a genius 

I guess if the **** I was referring to worked well for car audio, someone would have mentioned it by now.

I'll stick to quality wire and good old fashioned soldering for secure connects/max signal transfer..

Thanks for being a sport..

Your Avatar kills me!


----------



## Megalomaniac

Sounds like you ae talking about canare style connectors, has a crimp sleeve.. 

If you want even more stupid proof connectors, Taralabs has one where you don't even strip the rg59 cable, you just stick it in the connector and screw down, just have to have correct diameter insulation.


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## lust4sound

Megalomaniac said:


> Sounds like you ae talking about canare style connectors, has a crimp sleeve..
> 
> If you want even more stupid proof connectors, Taralabs has one where you don't even strip the rg59 cable, you just stick it in the connector and screw down, just have to have correct diameter insulation.


If the RG59 is a good choice for a signal path, I'll use what I have at my disposal, which is tons of free wire, any length, any color, free connectors, I already own the stripping tool as well as the compression tool.

That is of course if the RG59 is a good signal carrier.

I have yet to hear an answer on this.


----------



## chad

Yes RG59 is a FINE choice, it's true coax, has great shielding and low capacitance. Have at it!


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## Weightless

I say go for it. I'm using RG-59 I had left over from my installs. And there is nothing wrong with using a crimp on connector. It's a lot quicker than soldering...


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## Megalomaniac

go for it! only complaints you'll have maybe are flexibility and thickness. but that tradeoff seems worth it for getting it all free


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## lust4sound

Woohooo!!

The lack of flexibility? The stuff is pretty rigid, yes, could possibly pose a problem, but an easy one to overcome. 

The thickness? No worries, the cable I have access to is not very thick at all. As a matter of fact, it's a lot thinner than your typical Coax type cable. Again, install hurdles would be very easy to overcome.

My main concern when considering these was in not knowing if they had optimal signal carrying benefit for SQ. But it makes sense, shielding and all. 

Another good thing, I looked at one of the connectors recently, It has a ring inside that fits snug against the outer insulation, this to help ensure moisture stays out. That and a little bit of that grease they use for battery terminals and I should be good to go, methinks..

Now, what to do with all this really expensive RCA' cabling I have laying about? LOL!

Thanks fellas.


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## lust4sound

Woohooo!!

The lack of flexibility? The stuff is pretty rigid, yes, could possibly pose a problem, but an easy one to overcome. 

The thickness? No worries, the cable I have access to is not very thick at all. As a matter of fact, it's a lot thinner than your typical Coax type cable. Again, install hurdles would be very easy to overcome.

My main concern when considering these was in not knowing if they had optimal signal carrying benefit for SQ. But it makes sense, shielding and all. 

Another good thing, I looked at one of the connectors recently, It has a ring inside that fits snug against the outer insulation, this to help ensure moisture stays out. That and a little bit of that grease they use for battery terminals and I should be good to go, methinks..

Now, what to do with all this really expensive RCA' cabling I have laying about? LOL!

Thanks fellas.


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## chad

Sell the cabling you have now for beer and bourbon.


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## lust4sound

chad said:


> Sell the cabling you have now for beer and bourbon.


LMAO!!

I may actually sell the stuff, I've got some very good mid/high quality cable here.

BTW, Beer and Bourbon are also free for me, a family owned restaurant has it's perks ..

Anyone in South Florida? For Diyma folks, dinners on me.. (Turkish Food)


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## BKJT05

update....ordered some new rca ends cause they looked cool...so i made another set of rcas today...pics kinda suck, but im gonna make more tomorrow so ill get better pics...


----------



## imjustjason

I wanna play!! 

Got a simple 2-conductor set, a 4-conductor set, and a set that is two in and 4 out... silly JL amp's that have to have splitters!!

PG ends, Gepco, DIYMA req'd techflex


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## Megalomaniac

interesting you used cable pants.


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## imjustjason

Megalomaniac said:


> interesting you used cable pants.


Good interesting... or "what's he thinking" interesting??


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## BKJT05

i think those look sweet...


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## Megalomaniac

imjustjason said:


> Good interesting... or "what's he thinking" interesting??


a little bit of both. I think its great actually, but its just one more thing to buy. It would have been perfect imo if you heatshrinked the very bottom of the pants where it meets the blue flextech.

i just kinda group mine together. here is my latest cables for a friend.I discovered my labels from my new label maker are stickers. lol


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## BKJT05

damn u all...i always think my rcas are nice, then you guys show yours...


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## Kpg2713

I do mine the same with the heatshrink at the bot.


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## imjustjason

BKJT05 said:


> damn u all...i always think my rcas are nice, then you guys show yours...


They don't have to look good... just transfer the signals and hold up to an automotive environment


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## BKJT05

haha, but i want them to look good, and better then everyones. i might not be the best fiber glasser or wood worker, but dammnit i wanna be the best RCA maker! haha jk


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## Megalomaniac

BKJT05 said:


> damn u all...i always think my rcas are nice, then you guys show yours...


Thanks for the compliment


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## Ludemandan

So... does silver solder matter? Or is standard tin/lead solder good enough for our uncompromising DIY needs?

Edit: I ordered 150' of this cable, it's all copper and looks good. http://www.westlake-electronic.com/cgi-bin/store.php?search=yes&detail=yes&item_no=WES15048


----------



## Megalomaniac

Ludemandan said:


> So... does silver solder matter? Or is standard tin/lead solder good enough for our uncompromising DIY needs?
> 
> Edit: I ordered 150' of this cable, it's all copper and looks good. http://www.westlake-electronic.com/cgi-bin/store.php?search=yes&detail=yes&item_no=WES15048


id question the flexibility of an rg6 cable.


----------



## Ludemandan

Am I right in assuming L and R channels share a common ground? If I have a 2-channel cable with a woven copper shield, can I use the shield layer as the ground for both channels?


----------



## BKJT05

how hard would it be to make y-adapters? just buy the female end and run 2 sets of wire to it??


----------



## Megalomaniac

BKJT05 said:


> how hard would it be to make y-adapters? just buy the female end and run 2 sets of wire to it??


yes.


----------



## Megalomaniac

BKJT05 said:


> made a new set today!


just saw this pic. you need to work on your soldering.


----------



## BKJT05

think so? looks better in person. oh well all my cables are made, and i dont plan on making any more for awhile, gotta start getting caught up on my credit cards. i ended up buying some y-adapters from Knu cause after buying more rca connectors and rca jacks to my my own, it would of cost way to much, i got some from Knu for $13 shipped to my door.


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## Megalomaniac

you see how you just kind of dribled the solder on so it just connects. that connection doesnt look gas tight, i see some copper. What I do is tin the wire then put some solder into the connector until it fills up that little semi circle then stick the wire in there. let it cool and bam mad solid connection with no oxidation.


----------



## BKJT05

i think thats a bad pic, cause when i do it, it just goes right into the tab, seals up nice and is good to go. or that is a bad one, but the others are good.


----------



## jlmannsg21

looks great


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## Megalomaniac

I made some speaker wire for HT use too. They are purposely one side longer.


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## BKJT05

awesome! i know when i buy my house after winter, ill be making a buch of cables!


----------



## lgvenable

*Re: Making RCA Cables>Using lead-tin or silver tin solder*

silver tin solder has a better eutectic than lead tin, wets the cables when hot better, and is stronger. All in all, a little more expensive; but silver-tin gives much better results. I've always used it when repairing solder connections on audio equipment I've troubleshot.
larry


----------



## less

Hey,

As silly as this sounds, I learned something pretty nice the other day that I am using in my latest fabrication project (pics coming soon)... 

When adding sleeving to cables, simply wrap the cable ends with double sided tape then slide the sleeving over top... then heat shrink for strain relief becomes optional instead of required for holding the sleeving in place =) Now how hard is that... I just know some rocket scientist was the first to figure that out =)!

Anyhow, I better go get back to work finishing the cables... they do take a lot of time to prepare and complete!

Less


----------



## less

I reworked my RCA's over the break and thought you might want to see. Yup - I bought into spending a little extra on looks and to assure I had a good connection, durability and the chance at a nick better sound... so flaming won't bug me much... I had a helluva lot of fun making these up :2thumbsup:

For those who care:

1. VIAblue RCA plugs - twist lock for durable connection, 81% copper body vs 99% brass most use (brass isn't a great conductor by comparison... and even the Clarion DRZ uses copper in the body of its RCA's), split pin center post, nice design making them easy to solder and avoid any potential strain on the wires. No longer available in this form, but they are made in a new format T6S, which is some marketing hype for the 6th sense.

2. Canara Star Quad wire - very light, durable and strong, fairly low capacitance when one path is used for each run (not doubled) and in runs under 15ft or so, used in studios and commercially so it can't be bad. I already had this or I might have tried out some other brand which focused on low capacitance... as it is, these sure aren't bad and won't hurt my sound.

3. VIABlue sleeving - costs too much but looks really nice and is pretty much one size fits all. Picked up a few extra feet to do my ipod cable and some other cables that people might see from time to time. Also used some 3:1 heat shrink for coding: black (midbass), gray (midrange) and white (tweeter), and some black techflex for the branches of the main run.

All in all, I think they look pretty nice. I honestly could have bundled all 3 stereo pairs into one segment of the VIABlue sleeving - which would have made it far more affordable... but I wanted to be able to seperate them out if I went back to a two way again.





































Now the joy of burying it nicely under the carpet and through the woods... Oh and a suggestion to anyone planning on doing this in the future. It really is best to be decisive and figure out what you want to do BEFORE you start doing things... this isn't exactly a quick project to do correctly, and having to go back and redo work you've already done when you change your mind about how you want to do it can really be a pisser! :cussing:

Less


----------



## Megalomaniac

ive been there


----------



## Darius2010

This is AWESOME - now I just need to learn how to solder!


----------



## matt62485

someone link me to some decent well priced wire i can use for this project???


----------



## illnastyimpreza

component cables suck... why don't car audio manufacturers use OPTICAL ! ???


----------



## matt62485

^ as if stuff isnt expensive enough.


----------



## illnastyimpreza

matt62485 said:


> ^ as if stuff isnt expensive enough.


dude opticle cables are DIRT cheap, check out www.monoprice.com 
8.40 for ONE 25ft toslink opticle cable...it will cary 5 channels !

a single 2 channel RCA cable is 6.38 and you need to by MULTIPLE cables ! 

how is it more expensive ?? 

honestly, how much more money would it cost the amp manufacturers to put a ****ing opticle connector in the back of an amp? a headunit ?

You can run 1 cable for an active 2 way front stage AND a sub ! AND it doesn't pick up ANY...I repeat...ANY noise !


----------



## matt62485

true, i didnt mean the cables though. i was referring to the headunits. not sure how much is would jack up cost on headunits/amps is what i meant. what do u think? its not neccessarily how much it would cost them to build it, but how much theyd charge for the features


----------



## chad

Something tells me you are not looking at the big picture. This means DA at the amplifier and enough smarts to pick off what channels it needs out of the 8 channels that it will easily carry.

You can bet your ass that it will add considerable price to items, especially considering it has to be cross compatible with the MILLIONS of existing analog rigs.


----------



## matt62485

chad said:


> Something tells me you are not looking at the big picture. This means DA at the amplifier and enough smarts to pick off what channels it needs out of the 8 channels that it will easily carry.
> 
> You can bet your ass that it will add considerable price to items, especially considering it has to be cross compatible with the MILLIONS of existing analog rigs.


exactly. thanks for better explaining


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I have a question. I'm looking on my phone so I've not been able to search much, please forgive me. I have a thought. In my system I am needing to use a "y" connector to run 2 sets of front rca's for my active 3 way front stage. I was looking at partsexpress and they have an 8 lead set of line. My thought was can I connect two sets of leads to one connector to go into the head unit and then on the other end split them back to single leads? So essentially on one end have a right and left and then on the other have 2 sets of right and left connections. Would I loose any signal clarity or what other problems would I encounter?
Thanks ahead of time for the help.


----------



## Megalomaniac

if im not mistaken your voltage will be cut in half. it would "quieter" if you run both than just 1.


----------



## dblover

can i make 2 channel rca from this wire?
Need Cookies Enabled
and this rca plug
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProd...rt=prod&skuonly=0&search=rca+plug&pagesize=20


----------



## Megalomaniac

dblover said:


> can i make 2 channel rca from this wire?
> Need Cookies Enabled
> and this rca plug
> Need Cookies Enabled


Yes. make sure you order enough for each channel. 

also use this connector, the one you chose looks like a cheapy to me.

Neutrik RCA


----------



## dblover

k cool


----------



## Attack eagle

Question: If using star-quad could you not run 4 channels?
The shield should be the ground/drain on both ends, for every RCA, then white, other white, blue and blue 2 would be the signal conductors, correct?

I'm thinking of making my own for my new install since I need 6 channels from the head into 8 channels at the amps. Seems to be about a wash after buying connectors IF I can use star quad as a 4 channel lead, and certainly would be a space conserving measure.

Many thanks in advance.


----------



## Megalomaniac

yes.


----------



## scooter99

So if there is a voltage drop what does that do? I mean in theory shouldn't the amp be boosting the signal anyway. I think maybe I'm just not understanding that one. 

I'm trying to take the 3 outs from the h/u and make them 4 by only running one line and not using a y connector. Space is pretty limited behind the h/u. 

If you have any other ideas I'd gladly listen.


----------



## scooter99

Megalomaniac said:


> if im not mistaken your voltage will be cut in half. it would "quieter" if you run both than just 1.


So I'm curious what that matters. In theory aren't the amplifiers supposed to boost the signal and sound? Maybe I just don't understand. I mean maybe the signal strength going to the amps are more important then I understand? Wouldn't installing a y adaptor cut the signal anyway? Still trying to learn all this so if you have any ideas I'm open to discussion. 

I have limited space behind my h/u. I have an 06 civic and I'm installing an IVA-W505. I have 3 outs and I need to convert to 4 before I hit the amps. Running a 3 way front stage. Like I said I could use some ideas.


----------



## scooter99

sorry about the double post I was doing that from my phone. Didn't seem to work but I guess it did!


----------



## Megalomaniac

scooter99 said:


> So I'm curious what that matters. In theory aren't the amplifiers supposed to boost the signal and sound? Maybe I just don't understand. I mean maybe the signal strength going to the amps are more important then I understand? Wouldn't installing a y adaptor cut the signal anyway? Still trying to learn all this so if you have any ideas I'm open to discussion.
> 
> I have limited space behind my h/u. I have an 06 civic and I'm installing an IVA-W505. I have 3 outs and I need to convert to 4 before I hit the amps. Running a 3 way front stage. Like I said I could use some ideas.


a weak(er) signal can result in unwanted noises.


----------



## scooter99

Megalomaniac said:


> a weak(er) signal can result in unwanted noises.



Ok that makes since. So do you have any suggestions on what I should do to multiply my signal, so to speak?


----------



## Megalomaniac

Implement a line driver into your system, or look for a new Deck that has the correct amount of preouts you desire.


----------



## AdrianD

Megalomaniac said:


> a weak(er) signal can result in unwanted noises.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the noise be a problem related to the amplifier in that case ? Running higher gain accentuates the noise while a lower gain will mask it...


----------



## Megalomaniac

AdrianD said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the noise be a problem related to the amplifier in that case ? Running higher gain accentuates the noise while a lower gain will mask it...


yep. but whats more cost effective?


----------



## AdrianD

Megalomaniac said:


> yep. but whats more cost effective?


Higher pre-amp voltage more than likely


----------



## scooter99

I was looking around and what if I used this as a booster? Isn't that what it's for and wouldn't that solve the voltage problem?

Rockford Fosgate® - RF-BLD


----------



## Megalomaniac

AdrianD said:


> Higher pre-amp voltage more than likely


bingo


----------



## Attack eagle

an 8v becomes a 4 still more than adequate, a 4 becomes a 2, still adequate

now a 2 becomes a 1v, that's when i'd start to think about it.


----------



## Attack eagle

an 8v becomes a 4 still more than adequate, a 4 becomes a 2, still adequate

less than that you probably already had trouble.


----------



## chad

Megalomaniac said:


> if im not mistaken your voltage will be cut in half. it would "quieter" if you run both than just 1.


The amplifier input impedance is so high it would BARELY make a voltage difference.

That's like saying adding another 4 ohm speaker to an amplifier would halve it's output voltage, and we know that's not the case, it lowers it a TAD and the ratio to input to output impedance int he speaker scenario is MUCH closer, by like the order of hundreds if not thousands.


----------



## falkenbd

I haven't seen it mentioned yet, what type of solder does everyone use to solder to GOLD plated connectors?

the only solder I currently have is rat shack rosin core electronics solder...


----------



## kcdonahue

I like kester 44...


----------



## chad

kcdonahue said:


> I like kester 44...


good ol standby, wets well,works great


----------



## falkenbd

so can I use radio shack silver solder? Or is it crap?


----------



## ErinH

I decided to do a little reading up on cable types. Never been one to believe that one is better than a nother, but I have noticed folks using balanced type cables in our systems and wondered why, since the balanced cable is rendered useless. Found this little article. Could be biased, but some good info. I need to cross check. But, they do bring up a good point about using coaxial cable. In my case, the cables I have are mic cables and apparently aren’t as good at noise rejection as the coaxial type cables.
Hum Rejection in Unbalanced Audio Cables

A bit long, but worth a quick skim if you get a chance. I’m going to do a bit more reading. I may wind up scrapping the cables I have and starting all over. For one reason, just to learn how to make proper RCAs myself.


----------



## chad

I run a TP+Shield config because I run balanced 

A TRUE coaxial design is indeed superior for noise rejection, not only hum but other **** too. But the cheaper, thinner, gepco/belden TP+Foil works damn well in this application.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> The amplifier input impedance is so high it would BARELY make a voltage difference.
> 
> That's like saying adding another 4 ohm speaker to an amplifier would halve it's output voltage, and we know that's not the case, it lowers it a TAD and the ratio to input to output impedance int he speaker scenario is MUCH closer, by like the order of hundreds if not thousands.


thanks for the clarification.


----------



## ErinH

Well, given how short my runs are, I figure there’s no reason not to give it a shot. They also make note of higher resistance in the cable being a factor in performance (yea, you know this I’m sure, but I’m new so bear with me). I did some research on the cables I had made and the resistance is about 30ohms/1000ft. The ones BJC recommends are all lower than 3ohm… they didn’t even (apparently) test anything above 5ohm. Kinda makes you wonder…

So, a little bit more digging shows that, yes, coaxial seems to be the best way to go for noise rejection (at least). I’ve gone through most of this thread, but it’s tough reading that many pages. So, forgive me if this has been beaten to death. 

I’m going to look into belden/canare coax and try to get some pricing. I think the PITA is going to be getting the right sized connectors. :/


----------



## chad

From the site, things that need to be addressed.....



> As we've discussed elsewhere in our articles on cable design, in these unbalanced circuits, there's really only one way to keep noise out of the signal path: shielding. Loose electromagnetic energy that hits the cable needs to be intercepted by a shield and shunted to ground; if it gets past the shield, and reaches the signal conductor, there's no way to separate it from the original, intended signal. For this reason, coaxial cable, with its all-encompassing shield, is the best cable design for unbalanced audio circuits.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a common misconception that twisting the two conductors of an interconnect cable together can somehow contribute to noise rejection, and even that it can perform as good a job of noise rejection as a good shield can. But the phenomenon by which twisted-pair wires reject noise--called common-mode noise rejection--works only in balanced audio circuits, not in the unbalanced circuits that are nearly universal in consumer audio gear.


I IN NO WAY advocate TP (twisted pair) without a shield for "unbalanced operation" to truly be balanced you need to send and receive balanced, BUT many amps and devices utilize a differential input, which means that the receive is "balanced" The shield is actually active, it's the inverting input and after this input hits the amp it is flipped over and superimposed on top of the non inverting input. That's how CMRR works. What happens is that if the noise makes it onto the pair of wires then hypothetically it is of the same level because they have the same impedance, so by inverting one 180 degrees you can null the noise out when the signals are combined. Now, lets take a damn fine standard coaxial interconnect, hammer the shield with noise and protect the signal carrying wire, now on one line you have no noise, on the shield you have noise but instead of dumping it to ground at the amp (which they think happens) you invert the noise and shove it on top of a noise free signal, what do you have? Phase inverted noise! But you say, it's grounded at the headunit chad, yes, it's ELECTRICALLY grounded but remember that this length of wire can EASILY resonate at RF frequencies and since it's pretty damn long it can resonate at MANY RF frequencies... and carry current! It's a simple receive antenna that's shunted to ground at the end and I can tell you that this type of antenna makes a DAMN FINE receive antenna, damn fine. and all you need is a diode to make a damn fine AM receiver.... like a crystal set.

So lets look at using a shielded TP, the shield tied to ground at one end one conductor to "ground" at the headunit shield and the other conductor carrying signal, it IS NOT impedance matched, it IS NOT balanced although could be made impedance balanced fairly easily (I did this with mine) BUT the output of the headunit is of low impedance, not ground but low and the amp pin and shield are of the same impedance, the ratio gets close. So now we have a screen, it's going to help reject noise, and then inside this screen we have 2 conductors that are of the same type of wire and of the same length, they have similar properties EXCEPT for the fact that one is "grounded" Noise will hit both wires "the same" BUT one will have a wee bit more since they re of different impedance. one gets inverted and put on top of the other, the ratio fo the noise that gets canceled is equal to the ratio of the impedance mismatch, which is MUCH better than the amount of noise you would get if you were hammering a shield (that can still resonate at RF) and flipping that over the signal with no noise... you dig?


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> They also make note of higher resistance in the cable being a factor in performance (yea, you know this I’m sure, but I’m new so bear with me). I did some research on the cables I had made and the resistance is about 30ohms/1000ft. The ones BJC recommends are all lower than 3ohm… they didn’t even (apparently) test anything above 5ohm. Kinda makes you wonder…


Dude, that's a THOUSAND ****ing feet of cable! and given the input impedance of modern gear it's NOTHING! You people are looking WAY too far into this and just at a wire, thus forgetting that it's part of a MUCH bigger picture, that's why it's called INTERCONNECT.

Let's punch some numbers...... your favorite time. 

1 kilofoot of cable has a 30 ohm resistance so lets say .03 ohms per foot they want you to use wire that has a resistance of 3 ohms per kilofoot (which i would actually like to see, kinda crying ******** on that one) so per foot you have a resistance of .003 ohms per foot. You ****ing meter can't read either of those numbers. you need a milliohm meter. So since you aren't running audio a quarter mine in your car (and if you were it would not mean **** for loss) what's the point of adhering to their propaganda?

Remember, they are marketing interconnect


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> ... you dig?


yea... let me read it about 5 more times. 

Am I just asking the wrong questions? (is that rhetorical?)

^ no pun intended


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> Dude, that's a THOUSAND ****ing feet of cable!


When you put it like that, then it makes complete sense. But, I did get the 30ohm rating from canare's site, just FYI.


Guess I wasn't thinking of it in the units they were given. So, ultimately, the only real reason to change what I have is
a)	I just want to make my own
b)	I believe brand X has better components
c)	I like to waste money

A & C are close. For this case, I’m only looking to do short runs… 1ft max. See, the cables I have now are too long. I was originally just going to cut them short and resolder. But, I figured this would be a good time to actually learn how to do this myself for cheap. I can order the belden 1505f cable for less than $15. You’ve definitely made me more aware of the other side of their argument.


----------



## ErinH

Alright, Chad, what about the 75ohm interconnects? 
I know that it’s primarily used in video, but does it have its place in audio? Coax is 75ohm, correct? Then, joining that with in-hand rca connectors, does it make a difference? For example, I have the zero noise 5’s on some RCAs and the RCAs autiofile made me use neutrik NYS373 connectors. I looked up the neutrik and assume they are 75ohm connectors, but not sure about the ZN connectors. 
Cliffs: Mixing and matching 20ohm/75ohm cable/interconnects an issue at all?


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Alright, Chad, what about the 75ohm interconnects?
> I know that it’s primarily used in video, but does it have its place in audio? Coax is 75ohm, correct? Then, joining that with in-hand rca connectors, does it make a difference? For example, I have the zero noise 5’s on some RCAs and the RCAs autiofile made me use neutrik NYS373 connectors. I looked up the neutrik and assume they are 75ohm connectors, but not sure about the ZN connectors.
> Cliffs: Mixing and matching 20ohm/75ohm cable/interconnects an issue at all?


Cliffs, 

not an issue at audio frequencies at all
Only makes a difference at RF, especially for transmitting
Coax can come in a multitudes of impedance but 50 ohm and 75 ohm are most popular.

Great description: Cable impedance


----------



## ErinH

Thanks for the link. 



I think I’m going to order some of the belden cable to do my main run with. At ~$15/25ft, it’s worth a shot. 
Belden 1505F Bulk Cable from Rawcable.com

The trouble is finding the tech specs on it to determine what connectors I need to buy. Found the crimp connectors but those are $4/each... that's $16 for the one main run. 
Plus, not sure if these can be crimped with a regular crimper or not.


----------



## ErinH

dupe!!!!


----------



## chad

Just recycle the neutriks


----------



## ErinH

Had planned to, but since sizing seems to be an issue you guys have discussed I was trying to make sure they'd work. I'm assuming they will?


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> I'm assuming they will?


they come with 2 strain springs.... and on top of that there's a way to make ANYTHING fit


----------



## ErinH

Alright, I ordered the belden 1505f cable. Pretty good price for it. Now I need to order some neutrik connectors for the system. The cheapest price I’m finding is $1.39 for the colors I want. Markertech only has green/red in stock for $1.25 but that’s it; no black or blue or anything else.


----------



## chad

bikinpunk said:


> Alright, I ordered the belden 1505f cable. Pretty good price for it. Now I need to order some neutrik connectors for the system. The cheapest price I’m finding is $1.39 for the colors I want. Markertech only has green/red in stock for $1.25 but that’s it; no black or blue or anything else.


Woah, we are talking about different neutrik connectors then...... 

Neutrik - Audio - NYS Phono (RCA) - NYS373-* These? If so take the colored rubber band off of them, I believe that's all it is.


----------



## ErinH

Yea, man. Same ones. Even PE has them for $1.89 each unless you buy 10+, which then they become 1.69/each. Mouser charges $1.50/each but they don't have them in stock. Willy's electronics (or something like that) is the cheapest with black/red/blue/white in stock for $1.39/each. The $0.89/each ones are UK... so do the conversion from GBP to USD and they're essentially the same price + their shipping. 

I didn't know that the indicator was simply a rubber band. Not that it really matters... I was going to just order 20 of the same color and use some shrink if I had to.


----------



## chad

Don't shrink over the spring onto the connector, it will not only be huge and stiff like my **** but ugly like it also.


----------



## ErinH

chad said:


> Don't shrink over the spring onto the connector, it will not only be huge and stiff like my **** but ugly like it also.


good point. 

well, guess I'll just pay the $1.39/each for the blue/white I want.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> Don't shrink over the spring onto the connector, it will not only be huge and stiff like my **** but ugly like it also.


yea i had shrunk over them once, didnt look bad but i like it bare better


----------



## chad

I like #2 also but he was talking about going clear up over the shell too!


----------



## falkenbd

Here is the first one that I made:




























Gepco and Nuetriks. I got the nylon sleeving from Redco - super cheap


----------



## AdamTaylor

so coaxial cable is best for rca's? never thought of that, always thought just twisted wire


----------



## falkenbd

I used Gepco signal/mic wire. 2 conductors and a ground + 100% foil shield.

I used the same cable to make balanced XLR mic cables.


----------



## chad

AdamTaylor said:


> so coaxial cable is best for rca's? never thought of that, always thought just twisted wire


JUST twisted wire is one of the worst things you could use for noise rejection. But as noted above shielded twisted wire, in some instances CAN perform better than coax depeding on the config of the input device.


----------



## AdamTaylor

chad said:


> JUST twisted wire is one of the worst things you could use for noise rejection. But as noted above shielded twisted wire, in some instances CAN perform better than coax depeding on the config of the input device.


so with coax the woven outer part is the - and the center is the + ???

would i need to use the crimpless rca plugs?


----------



## chad

AdamTaylor said:


> so with coax the woven outer part is the - and the center is the + ???
> 
> would i need to use the crimpless rca plugs?


Correct

I was unaware of a crimp style RCA to be honest.


----------



## ErinH

this might help. I found this last night while trying to figure out how you would do this with coaxial cable.









Came from a thread here but there was no info really. That pic should be all you need to get started.

FWIW, my cable was shipped out yesterday. I'll get pics up when I get it in. Being shipped from Oregon.


----------



## ErinH

here's another good resource for DIY coax RCAs made via crimping:
DIY A/V RCA Compression Connector Cables


----------



## chad

You should see the **** I make of of RG58 and the nickel Neutriks, it's BEEEE-YOU-TEE-FUL!

But I have the crimpers to do it


----------



## ErinH

Yea, me no have crimpers. The compression fit ones look pretty sweet though. Plus, no solder. I've read in other threads that compression fit are VERY robust; moreso than solder (which could vary from user to user/solderer to solderer). 

Would be easy on me since I don't own a soldering gun or 3rd hand tool. :/


----------



## falkenbd

helping hands are almost a must, and they are like $15 at radio shack.

A large spring clamp helps as well, a vice couldn't hurt either.


----------



## ErinH

Eventually I’ll need a 3rd hand tool. And a vice. At my house I have NOTHING like that. I don’t even have a workbench. 

I may see what I can find in the way of compression connectors. The site I linked above had some good things to say about it and it looks like they did the homework. Would make my life a lot easier as the only tool I currently have to do this RCA job is a razor blade.


----------



## capnxtreme

Dude, soldering guns are so cheap.


----------



## falkenbd

I make my cables in the kitchen. The granite counters repel any solder that may drip while hot.

I've been using a radio shack 100 watt soldering gun with pretty good luck. I'd like a temp regulated one so I can just leave it on instead of holding the trigger until its hot enough to tin the tip and then making my connections. The tip isn't exactly ideal on those things either, kinda large and weird shaped.


----------



## ErinH

I was misunderstand the type of connector. When I saw 'compression' I was thinking of a screw/clamp down type compression fitting. Didn't realize it takes a special tool... that costs $40+. so, the compression idea is out now. Soldering gun it is.


----------



## AdamTaylor

i was talking about a plug like this


----------



## momo.689

Hi
Where can you get plugs and cables which could be shipped to france??
thx


----------



## ErinH

Got my coax in yesterday. It’s belden 1505f, which got good reviews by many sites including BJC. This stuff is VERY flexible. I was surprised… figured it’d be like the RG59 used at home that’s really stiff. 
RCA connectors are on their way.


----------



## ErinH

Connectors are on the way today. Went with a mishmash to ge t a good deal. 


On another note… I picked up the receipt from the Belden cable I ordered and it had something interesting. On the return shipping address it had the company I ordered from: RawCable.com.
But, on the top of the page in huge letters it says “Blue Jeans Cable”. They share the same address. So, apparently I just ordered from BJC. 

Go figure, right? I paid less than $30 for 47ft of that stuff, too, which, IMO is a really good deal.


----------



## DonovanM

bikinpunk said:


> Connectors are on the way today. Went with a mishmash to ge t a good deal.
> 
> 
> On another note… I picked up the receipt from the Belden cable I ordered and it had something interesting. On the return shipping address it had the company I ordered from: RawCable.com.
> But, on the top of the page in huge letters it says “Blue Jeans Cable”. They share the same address. So, apparently I just ordered from BJC.
> 
> Go figure, right? I paid less than $30 for 47ft of that stuff, too, which, IMO is a really good deal.


I'm using Belden 1505A for my interconnects. What's the difference, do you know? 

I paid $42 for 120ft FWIW. From markertek.

Ah! 1505F: http://www.markertek.com/SearchProd...rod&skuonly=0&search=belden+1505f&pagesize=20

1505A: http://www.markertek.com/SearchProd...rod&skuonly=0&search=belden+1505a&pagesize=20

Yours is stranded, mine is solid core. Mine is flexible but pretty stiff, which is fine.

What connectors did you get?


----------



## ErinH

In a huge misunderstanding I was sent the wrong connectors. Ordered the nuetriks everyone buys, guy calls me telling me their out of the colors I wanted but have gold and black. I say OK. He says they're cheaper. I say, super okay.

I get them. Wrong ones. They're the silver shell/gold center, and black shell/gold center. Look at invoice they sent me... right per invoice, wrong per my understanding of what I ordered.

Oh well. I might use them, might not. :/


----------



## falkenbd

bikinpunk said:


> Connectors are on the way today. Went with a mishmash to ge t a good deal.
> 
> 
> On another note… I picked up the receipt from the Belden cable I ordered and it had something interesting. On the return shipping address it had the company I ordered from: RawCable.com.
> But, on the top of the page in huge letters it says “Blue Jeans Cable”. They share the same address. So, apparently I just ordered from BJC.
> 
> Go figure, right? I paid less than $30 for 47ft of that stuff, too, which, IMO is a really good deal.


I got 200 feet of the gepco 6180EZ for $20, it can be used as balanced too... I guess the foil sheild may not be as good...


----------



## Megalomaniac

bikinpunk said:


> Connectors are on the way today. Went with a mishmash to ge t a good deal.
> 
> 
> On another note… I picked up the receipt from the Belden cable I ordered and it had something interesting. On the return shipping address it had the company I ordered from: RawCable.com.
> *But, on the top of the page in huge letters it says “Blue Jeans Cable”. They share the same address. So, apparently I just ordered from BJC.
> *
> Go figure, right? I paid less than $30 for 47ft of that stuff, too, which, IMO is a really good deal.


Raw Cable -- Cable, Connectors, and Tools

"First: the vast majority of our telephone traffic is for Blue Jeans Cable, which sells assembled cables; it is very important, when calling, to make it clear that you're inquiring about raw cable and connectors from rawcable.com."


----------



## pieces

At least early on in the discussion people were asking about quality RCA's on the cheap.
I have had very good experience with the following:
Parts Expressayton RCAGS-LK Locking RCA Plug Solder Type 2 Pair

Good prices
Take abuse (pulling, resolder, reuse)
Good lock


----------



## CupCak3

wow, those rawcable prices are pretty decent. Thanks for the link.


----------



## Lnh

Ok, so I'm new to the site and just found this thread. In the (relatively) near future I'm completely redoing my setup, and I don't feel like paying for rca's again, plus I like the idea of making them just the right length and in whatever color I want. I'd like to make 2channel rca's, so will this cable work: here Or would I be better off going with either the Gepco 61801EZ, the Canare L-2T2S, the Canare L-2B2AT, or the Belden 1505F and just pairing them up in the tech flex.

Last question. Do the L and R channels share a ground? And if so, can't I just use a 2-conductor and split my shield to go to each ground?


----------



## Lnh

Ok, so I'm new to the site and just found this thread. In the (relatively) near future I'm completely redoing my setup, and I don't feel like paying for rca's again, plus I like the idea of making them just the right length and in whatever color I want. I'd like to make 2channel rca's, so will this cable work: here Or would I be better off going with either the Gepco 61801EZ, the Canare L-2T2S, the Canare L-2B2AT, or the Belden 1505F and just pairing them up in the tech flex.

Last question. Do the L and R channels share a ground? And if so, can't I just use a 2-conductor and split my shield to go to each ground?

Also, any opinions on the Belden 8451?


----------



## azngotskills

Lnhiv said:


> Ok, so I'm new to the site and just found this thread. In the (relatively) near future I'm completely redoing my setup, and I don't feel like paying for rca's again, plus I like the idea of making them just the right length and in whatever color I want. I'd like to make 2channel rca's, so will this cable work: here Or would I be better off going with either the Gepco 61801EZ, the Canare L-2T2S, the Canare L-2B2AT, or the Belden 1505F and just pairing them up in the tech flex.
> 
> Last question. Do the L and R channels share a ground? And if so, can't I just use a 2-conductor and split my shield to go to each ground?


The cable you linked should be perfect. As to the other question, im not sure but I would either use the 4-cond you linked or two 2-cond for RCA pairs


----------



## Lnh

Awesome, thank you. One last question then. There's individual shielding on each pair in that cable, and then a common shield...what should I do with the common shield? Just split it and drain it to ground on the HU end and leave the other end floating?


----------



## MarkG

Lnhiv said:


> Awesome, thank you. One last question then. There's individual shielding on each pair in that cable, and then a common shield...what should I do with the common shield? Just split it and drain it to ground on the HU end and leave the other end floating?


That's what I would do. If you have multiple components, the HU usually connects to most/all of them so all shields will drain to it. Connecting the common shield on both ends only invites ground loop problems. Another reason to build them yourself!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so this is a newbie question I'm sure, but what does a drain do? You're rca's should be inside and covered, so moisture shouldn't be a problem. What else would it mean? I'm making my own as well so I'm just trying to understand it all before I get to making them.


----------



## braves6117

I highly suspect he was using the drain term as a way to say the electrical current or flow will go through the same ground point (same drain hole per say


----------



## 2chGUY

yeppers...

"drain" is just electrical slang for something with grounding properties.


----------



## xlynoz

Was reading this thread and then I remembered that I still had some old school DIY raw cable components ( I really need to go through my stash to see what I have lying around).

Think I was using these in 1991 to make my cables.


















These were by Scosche. They are pretty nice, if you don't mind using gold these days. Very beefy in construction. The cable was nice as well.

I got 16 connectors laying around and probably 100' of cable. If I can cleanly remove the connectors from the cables I have in my cable pile, I will probably have another 8 - 16 connectors.

I wish I would have remembered these in my last build.


----------



## 1zach4

I only need a 4 channel set of rca's and planned on just buying some, but the ability to make them to length and have them look like I want is a huge +++ in my book.

Any ideas on what cable I would need to make a 4ch set of rcas? I looked through the entire thread and saw one or two people ask the question but there was never any clarification. 

Also what size techflex and heatshrink is everyone using to cover their rcas?


----------



## falkenbd

I use gepco 6180EZ - 1 per channel. You can then bundle them together inside techflex.

The wire is cheap enough to use 4 runs in 1 cable. It's small enough too.

I use 3/16" shrink to go over the gepco wire alone, and 3/8" to go over 2 runs and hold the heatshrink on.

Sometime some 1/8" or 1/16" comes in handy to cover one of small wires inside of the gepco.

I think 1/4" techflex would easily cover 4 runs of gepco. I used 1/8" over 2 runs of gepco wire, almost a perfect fit.

Here is what they look like;


----------



## ImaT

hello all, new to forum.
i want to make my own rca cables due to the fact that i need 30' runs.
what i would like to do i make a 4 channel cable (fronts and rears) and the a 2 channel cable (subs).
1. everyone seems to have different opinions as to the type of cable to use, what would be the best for my length.
2. type of heat shrink to use

any help would greatly be appreciative


----------



## MarkG

I like Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Mic cable.


----------



## falkenbd

ImaT said:


> hello all, new to forum.
> i want to make my own rca cables due to the fact that i need 30' runs.
> what i would like to do i make a 4 channel cable (fronts and rears) and the a 2 channel cable (subs).
> 1. everyone seems to have different opinions as to the type of cable to use, what would be the best for my length.
> 2. type of heat shrink to use
> 
> any help would greatly be appreciative


read the post right above yours.

and you must drive a limo if you need 30 foot runs for a car...


----------



## 2chGUY

Or maybe a really bad sense of direction...


----------



## StUpId8000

I'm making a new set for my new install. 1st few were fail so I now found this. I didnt know this was something alot of people did now. I did a Google for the gepco 6180EZ and cant find were to get it. Got a link falkenbd? 200 feet of that for $20 is a good deal


----------



## falkenbd

StUpId8000 said:


> I'm making a new set for my new install. 1st few were fail so I now found this. I didnt know this was something alot of people did now. I did a Google for the gepco 6180EZ and cant find were to get it. Got a link falkenbd? 200 feet of that for $20 is a good deal


Redco Audio

price goes down for bulk


----------



## hatjr

Thanks


----------



## StUpId8000

ya, thx for the link. just got myself 400 ft


----------



## falkenbd

BTW, you can get nylon sleeving at Redco as well. It's considerably cheaper than tech flex but its the same thing.


----------



## Bob Morrow

Have you ever tried spinning your own RCAs as in twisted pair? You can make them any color combo you like to indicate function or to coordinate with your install, etc.


----------



## falkenbd

Bob Morrow said:


> Have you ever tried spinning your own RCAs as in twisted pair? You can make them any color combo you like to indicate function or to coordinate with your install, etc.


I prefer shielded cable. And you can hardly beat 10 cents a foot with any wire.


----------



## Bob Morrow

When you get tired of noisy cables, try twisted pair. Vastly better noise rejection. Virtually ALL of your quality cable companies use twisted pair technology, as does professional audio, the telephone company, etc.


----------



## capnxtreme

Yes, vastly better noise rejection when the receiving device has balanced differential inputs (professional audio, the telephone company, etc.).

Otherwise (as is the case with many car audio amplifiers), shielded coaxial is theoretically better, I believe.


----------



## Rudeboy

capnxtreme said:


> Yes, vastly better noise rejection when the receiving device has balanced differential inputs (professional audio, the telephone company, etc.).
> 
> Otherwise (as is the case with many car audio amplifiers), shielded coaxial is theoretically better, I believe.


I believe it too


----------



## chad

I concur, twisted pair unshielded cable is improper for unbalanced audio interconnection, data connection, or any other connection. The design of the cable does not MAKE the transfer protocol, it's the sending and receiving devices.


----------



## falkenbd

I'm getting no noise with my GEPCO wire. NONE. unless I'm just deaf.


----------



## chad

so what are you trying to say?


----------



## falkenbd

chad said:


> so what are you trying to say?


that I think unsheilded twisted pair for unbalanced audio is snake oil BS, and is actually worse than sheilded.

also that there is no where to go but down if I decide to try different cables.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

*Carputer RCA Cables*

I need to make my own 3.5mm to rca splitters. That’s for my carputer setup as my soundcard doesn’t have rca outs, only 3.5mm plugs. This site has a very good walkthrough for that.

I already own the Neutrik NYS373 rca connectors and I can say that they’re excellent for their money.

Now, I need to decide on the cable and I’m thinking of Canare star quad L-4E6S , Belden 1192A Star Quad or MOGAMI 2534  . I’m leaning towards the MOGAMI as its specifications state capacitance less than half compared to the Canare. Do you think that it will be OK or do you have any other suggestion?

I’ll also need to buy some appropriate 3.5mm plugs. Problem is that it has to be large enough to accept my cable decision. The only ones I could find are Neutrik NYS231L which can accept cables up to 6mm and this kind on ebay which can accept cables up to 8mm 

Do you guys have any suggestions? I’d really appreciate any help and any suggestions even if they fall outside my current options.


----------



## chad

Why quad cable?

I concur ont he rock-age of the Neutrik RCA too, damn fine bang for the buck


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

chad said:


> Why quad cable?
> 
> I concur ont he rock-age of the Neutrik RCA too, damn fine bang for the buck


That was fast! Quad cable mainly because i'll need 4 conductors for an RCA splitter. 3.5mm is 3 pole, but i'll need to split the ground also, so that makes it 4 conductors. Do you have any better suggestion? I guess i could use 2 cables of 2 conductors each, but will i find a 3.5mm big enough to snug them in?


----------



## chad

I prefer separate runs. You will too after fighting the splitting of that braid and all the "pants" or heat shrink work you will have to do to hide a thicker cable. 6 runs of Gepco will lay ribbon flat at about 3/16"


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

chad said:


> I prefer separate runs. You will too after fighting the splitting of that braid and all the "pants" or heat shrink work you will have to do to hide a thicker cable. 6 runs of Gepco will lay ribbon flat at about 3/16"


You're talking about gepco 61801 (not 61801EZ) i guess. Capacitance seems close to that of the Mogami i listed above. Do you think that the gepco has any more advantages apart from the fact that is easier to work with?


----------



## world27owns

Great guide Thanks


----------



## Z3Sooner

Wow, I just spent parts of the last 3 days reviewing every page on this thread and I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!! to everyone who has contributed. I am considering making my own RCAs and this thread has been incedibly informative. I'm looking at 3 options for cable:

Belden 1505F and bundling 2 channels in flex

Canare Star Quad with one hot and one ground for each channel and drain the shield at the H/U end.

Gepco 61801EZ bundled for 2 channel cable with drain wire connected at H/U.

I've tried to follow along but I'm not 100% sure if there is a specific sonic reason I should go with one over the other?

Cost wise the 1505f looks to be the most expensive @ $.64/ft for one channel. The star quad would be next at $0.51/ft for two channels and then the Gepco at $0.14/ft for one channel.

Thanks for any input.


----------



## thematrimix

I have question that I am sure has been answered and I searched for it, but did not find the answer. The question is what is the downside to running two channels off the Gepco wire using the shield wire as a common ground. I ask because I am planning on building my own cables and I have two options one being the situation is described and the other using separate wire for each channel making 6 cables. I will be needing 3 pair, thus 6 individual cables.


----------



## chad

downsides are that you can't run balanced later down the road if you want to and the fact that the wire is sooo inexpensive that the time spent doing the split will be worth 3X the extra runs of wire. Run one per channel, you may not need it but if you do you will be VERY thankful that you did


----------



## less

Hi all,

Anything special a guy should consider when building a digital coaxial cable? I want to make one VERY NICE roughly 10ft coaxial to run from my media player to my bit one's digi coax in, and I've built plenty of standard analog runs... but digital is a different world. 

Specifically, I'd like to know what cable would be best for running electrical digital in a car environment! Since its a single 10foot run, I don't mind paying a little more to assure the best possible result. As for the RCA's, is there anything special I should be looking for here? I've read a bit about maintaining a constant impedance - ideally 75 ohms? - and that it isn't so easy to accomplish. Also, I could just buy a pre-made one if there is a good value option out there that would be available at 9foot or so.

Oh - btw, if anyone is interested in some decent RCA plugs at a fairly good price, I ran across some of these for a good deal and I can get some more, so if anyone is interested at $15 for a sheet of $8 shipped via priority mail, check the thread link below and let me know:










http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...atinum-ice-gold-rca-nice-deal.html#post775376

Thanks all,
Jim/Less


----------



## powernapper

Has any one tried the ONIX 70024 RCA connectors?


----------



## less

I sure haven't used those, but they are one of the few connectors in that price range that use a copper base metal as opposed to brass (which is a terrible connector but looks gold so its popular). I'd say that they are a pretty good value given: a. they look pretty sharp, b. they appear to be of the twist lock variety and c. they use a solid copper core, which is not often found and seem like a logical choice for a connector material over brass (cheap - poor conductor) or silver (expensive although great conductor.)

There was someone on here that was selling the Eichman bullets for some quite low price - I'm thinking about $7 each (copper version) and that would be the only other "high-end" rca in that range I can think of. 

Many here aren't into using anything remotely expensive in terms of connectivity components... but personally, I suspect this type of product at this kind of price seems like a rational addition to assure quality signal transfer. I'm no EE and I don't really know how much signal runs through the core of a plug - or how "skin effect" works on these brass plated plugs, but chosing copper over brass seems like an easy decision when the price is fairly low. (The plugs I picked up above are being used to transfer signals like my ipod, blue tooth and audio from video's and I'm not too concerned about the finest level of detail in sound when listening to audio books or movies... straight audio is another matter!)

When I decided to build my own rca cabling, I went with the best value I could find which happened to be a very similar product. At the time, a company was clearing out the older model of ViaBlue locking RCA with a thick layer of gold plating over an 89% copper base, with a decent twist lock for about $6 each and ever since then I've been looking for a reasonable with these features in case I ever need to replace the ViaBlues and these look like they will do the job nicely! Thanks for the heads up on them.


----------



## powernapper

Thanks, I am going to attempt to build some cables. Probably going to go with some of these RCA's and some Mogami 2534 cable.


----------



## goodstuff

Ok shameless plug....Selling heat shrink tubing at prices that would make partsexpress poop on themselves and I thought you rca building guys might want to take advantage. Shoot me a pm or check my f/s thread. 
Apology in advance if anyone is upset at me for posting this here. Thank you.


----------



## emperorjj1

hey guys i have a few noob questions. I want to make some rcas soley for the purpose of having a single run with multiple channels and to avoid using y splitters. I have some rockford fosgate matrix cables that have awesome rca ends and can be unsoldered so id like to use those so im really just looking for the wire. Where would i find something with a bunch of runs in a single jacket? i need a total of 10 rca ends.

Im also confused on balanced and 2 channel and ground ect ect. From the matrix cables i have there's just a pos and shield. Isn't that all there is to it? Id like to have something that's will have better noise rejection then ghetto rigging it by running speaker wire or something like that but the only thing that makes sense to me is the twisted wire. lol the rest just flys by


----------



## emperorjj1

i think this is along the lines of what im looking for... it says 12 pair conductor

Gepco GA61812GFC BY FOOT 12-Pair 22 Gage Raw Multipair Cable (with Individual Jackets per Pair, Sold By Foot) | Full Compass

so that would give me 12 individual RCA channels? or? any issue of it not being twisted? would i connect the outer jacket to anything? and each individual jacked should be grounded (to the rca shield)?


----------



## chad

First off get the gepflex jacket, you will thank yourself, second off I believe they make it in 8 pair too.... that will save you some space.

Edit, nevermind, i missed that you need 10 sends...... still get the gepflex jacket.


----------



## emperorjj1

sweet the gepflex is a lil cheaper anyway.... any other suggestions or does the 12 pair gepflex sound like a good plan? you sound like your the one to ask on this stuff chad.

Its going to be fun stripping all this but i figure ill loose some space over my current what 5 pair or something going to the back. one last question i promise... for the jackets on all these wires is it going to be best to connect them to the rca shield? I was thinking of grounding out the big jacket around all the mini pairs but it would have to be at the rear not the front... while there is a ground at the source side i have everything audio wise grounded in the rear via d block that's connected to the batteries in the back (my car doesn't have a battery up front stock)

So would it be best to ground the big shield in the back only and connect each individual shield to the to the individual rca shield? or ground all the shields in the back?


----------



## emperorjj1

bump for question^^^


----------



## chad

If you are going single ended shielding everything gets shielded at the source, big and little.


----------



## emperorjj1

sweet thanks chad. lol that whole ground thing threw me off


----------



## chad

The point is to not have the shield carry current, which it could if it were attached at both ends, BUT attached at one end it's still very effective at shielding against EMI, RFI, etc.


----------



## kelrog

Long discussion. Anyways. Here is an interesting link, I found through reading this thread and online searching. 

DIY Silver RCA Interconnect Cables

Very interesting concept, taking pure silver wire from the jewerly store, heat shrinking it (building his own silver wire) then turning them into interconnects. Only issue I saw that there was no shielding, but I'm wondering if you could put your own on there. Also, I have used ferrite cores on some of my own rockford TP rca's and they seemed to help some.


----------



## falkenbd

kelrog said:


> Long discussion. Anyways. Here is an interesting link, I found through reading this thread and online searching.
> 
> DIY Silver RCA Interconnect Cables
> 
> Very interesting concept, taking pure silver wire from the jewerly store, heat shrinking it (building his own silver wire) then turning them into interconnects. Only issue I saw that there was no shielding, but I'm wondering if you could put your own on there. Also, I have used ferrite cores on some of my own rockford TP rca's and they seemed to help some.


that guy is crazy. unless he shows me on an oscilloscope that the signal is degraded on copper wire, his assumptions are BS.

How does silver produce a better stereo image than copper? This is nonsense.

Maybe he is hearing distortion since his wire isn't shielded.


----------



## kelrog

Well apparently he made some Coax cable interconnects too. 

Belden 89259 DIY RCA Interconnect Cables


----------



## kelrog

falkenbd said:


> that guy is crazy. unless he shows me on an oscilloscope that the signal is degraded on copper wire, his assumptions are BS.
> 
> How does silver produce a better stereo image than copper? This is nonsense.
> 
> Maybe he is hearing distortion since his wire isn't shielded.


Hmm. This seems to cover him not having a normal shield
"The white wire is an interwoven shield and does this with out adding (or adding very little) capacitance."


----------



## chad

All of our unbalanced studios are done in Coax... works GREAT and is easy peasy to work with once you have a good coax stripper.


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> The point is to not have the shield carry current, which it could if it were attached at both ends, BUT attached at one end it's still very effective at shielding against EMI, RFI, etc.


sweet. thanks man.. my gepflex is on the way im excited. sadly i have to break rcas to make rcas. but those matrix connectors are seriously the ****


----------



## emperorjj1

just got it in. man thanks chad for the advice that stuff is awesome. i was surprised there was a wire to use as the "shield" in all the runs and the big cover. I saw it in the pick but wasnt sure if thats the way it was or u had to do it urself


----------



## ganesht

Thanks! nice simple writeup..


----------



## chad

emperorjj1 said:


> just got it in. man thanks chad for the advice that stuff is awesome. i was surprised there was a wire to use as the "shield" in all the runs and the big cover. I saw it in the pick but wasnt sure if thats the way it was or u had to do it urself


Jacket feels cool doesn't it? I use the 26 pair a ton.


----------



## SQJEEP

I was wondering if i could use this wire Parts-Express.com Dayton MLI-100 22/2 Shielded Mic/Line Cable 100 ft. | in wall cable cl2 22/2 mic cable microphone cable bulk cable over the Gepco 61801EZ?? or am i better off the gepco??


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> Jacket feels cool doesn't it? I use the 26 pair a ton.


wow thats crazy... i thought my 12 pair was alot. does it matter which rca pair i hook up the outer jacket to? i was thinking one of the 2 subouts


----------



## chad

Just ground the outer jacket at the source... or leave it open......

I got wind of it in broadcast and started using it in my live rig. It's MUCH heavier than standard multicore but it rolls so nice. I'll see if I have a pic of the back of my FX rack with the 26 pair wired up.


----------



## SQJEEP

SQJEEP said:


> I was wondering if i could use this wire Parts-Express.com Dayton MLI-100 22/2 Shielded Mic/Line Cable 100 ft. | in wall cable cl2 22/2 mic cable microphone cable bulk cable over the Gepco 61801EZ?? or am i better off the gepco??


bump for an answer


----------



## capnxtreme

I see no reason it wouldn't work.


----------



## SQJEEP

The drain wire that's in the rca do you connect with the ground on both ends?? Or could I connect it on one end(the end that plugs into the headunit) and ground the other end to the chassis??


----------



## capnxtreme

I believe the typical convention is to ground it at the source, as you describe in the latter.


----------



## chad

Drain and black at the sleeve of the RCA at the source, just black on the sleeve at the destination, make sure the drain can't touch.


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> Just ground the outer jacket at the source... or leave it open......
> 
> I got wind of it in broadcast and started using it in my live rig. It's MUCH heavier than standard multicore but it rolls so nice. I'll see if I have a pic of the back of my FX rack with the 26 pair wired up.


that would be sweet id love to see it


----------



## chad

emperorjj1 said:


> that would be sweet id love to see it





















26 pair, 8 pair are split send/return with TRS on one end and TS on the other, 2 pair are stereo send and return to/from the UCA202 mounted on the rear. All normal send/return are normal pared, I have adaptors as pictured in the middle for the 8 send/return pairs for consoles having separate send/returns for insert points.


All home-brewed from the chair I'm sitting in right now. And includes a funny-ass story, but embarrassing.

It drives this:










Like this:










Chad


----------



## thematrimix

That my friend is hardcore. Sweet!


----------



## chad

Sure as hell is easier than having a bunch of wires! They are organized in groups on the fan-out end to facilitate faster patching


----------



## emperorjj1

x2 that is awesome. the mixer brings back memories thou


----------



## chad

That thing is a workhorse, Perfect for club gigs as it's indestructible and sounds DAMN GOOD for it's age and feature set... Has the same mic pre's and mix amp sections as the Yamaha PM3K/PM4K.


----------



## emperorjj1

I finished the source side of the 12 pair cable... sorta ghetto but not too bad for my first time. only thing i would have changed is length i stripped and i got the wrong size heat shrink


----------



## chad

Sweet, do continuity checks before you put them in and enjoy!

We are getting ready to do some HUGE patchbay work at work, I'll get some pics.

Hundreds of pairs.


----------



## emperorjj1

nice lol i would have trouble keeping them apart. lol for these i had to make myself a list of what exactly im doing... i did a continuity test of those tips and the wire on the other side and everything checked out. im gonna have to figure out a good way to measure how long i need them thou. lol im not even 100% sure where im gonna put the processors


----------



## scooter99

Ok Chad, I've got a couple of questions.

I want to build a video cable to go from my head unit to the monitor brain for my headrest screens. Can I just use coax for that and some regular rca ends? I was thinking these:

For the cable I was going to use some of the RG59 coax. For the RCA end's I was going to use these:

Parts-Express.com:Neutrik NYS373-Y RCA Plug Black w/Yellow Indicator | neutrik rca plug rca connector rca solder connector audio connector

For my rca's from my processor to the amps, I'm using the Gepco line with these ends:

Parts-Express.com:Neutrik NYS352 RCA Plug Nickel | neutrik rca plug rca connector rca solder connector audio connector

Which brings me to my second question. In the last post you said to do continuity checks before he put them in. What is that about and what would I be looking for when I do it? Can you explain this step to me please?

You know what, in the middle of this I decided to check Google and I figured it out I think. So I just, basically, want to make sure that the line can carry a signal. If I'm reading the page correctly, then if the meter is reading "infinity" there's something wrong and if it's reading "zero" then it's a good connection? Here's where I got the info from. In case it's right and someone else out there has the same questions.

Home Electrical Guide: How To Test for Continuity - ACME HOW TO.com

I basically googled "continuity testing". 

Sorry for all the rambling! Thanks!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so follow up:

I just looked in my cabinet in the garage, because I knew I had bought some coax before for this to try. It's Belden 8241 RG-59/U coax cable. Stuff isn't to stiff, I don't think anyway, and I have about 30 feet of it. Is this ok to use for the video cable?


----------



## chad

that will work fine.


----------



## scooter99

Ok thanks!


----------



## chad

The NYS 352 is another option that is not as deep, it is super easy to work with in terms of coax.. I have a trick for those


----------



## scooter99

Are those ok to use for the video cables? I was just planning to use those for the RCA interconnects for the processor and amps. But if they'll work for the video cables then I've got extra and there's no need to get more stuff.


----------



## chad

damn right they will, actually better!

Trick is to use a coax stripper... or be handy with a knife and nippers... leave a bout 3/16" of a ring of shield at the base. crimp the strain relief of the connector around this ring of shield then flow solder into it... the center pin attached where you stripped the dielectric... I'll try to find a pic of some I did here... it's a prety damn slick procedure.


----------



## scooter99

That's great! Thanks a bunch Chad!


----------



## emperorjj1

wouldn't he need the 75 ohm thing for video??


----------



## chad

RG59U is 75 ohm cable.. but in reality... shhhh..... a small percentage of vid cable people use is actually 75 ohm


----------



## emperorjj1

lol ok i had no idea just wondering


----------



## scooter99

Ok Chad one more question. Since I'm running RCA interconnects from the head unit to the monitor brain, as well as to the H701 area (for future use on the bit one if I ever get a hold of the money for one) then I need to connect that drain line to the black (or neg. wire) on the head unit side, correct? For both? And with that being done, do I need to do the same with the drain wire on the processor side of each channel as well? Or does doing the head unit side take care of that with the signal? Am I making since what I'm asking? If not let me know. Thanks again for the help, and I can't wait to see the pictures. I have a mental picture, but have yet to try it and would like to see if I'm correct in my mental picture. Thanks!


----------



## emperorjj1

drain wire to the source side only


----------



## scooter99

OK so the processor doesn't need them at all then. So when I'm making the cable ends, do I just cut those off or do I tuck them away somehow. Actually, you can answer anyway, but I'm gonna go back and look at the pictures and see if I can figure it out. I'm just trying to get an understanding before I go make myself the 12 sets plus a video cables, worth of wireing. I'd hate to have to do all that over again. That would not be good.


----------



## chad

Drain and black to sleeve at the source, black only at the destination.


----------



## scooter99

Ok got it!! Did you ever find those pics? I'm excited about looking at them and getting this project started!


----------



## Cancerkazoo

Did a cable for my HTPC a couple weeks ago withe some cat5, sounds good to me.









should have thrown some techflex on the ends though.


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I'm ready to start building wires. I just went into my local electronics shop and they had a ton of Canare Star Quad. I know it's not Gepco, which is what I already have, but I think it'll do just fine. I got 10 ft of Yellow (rear fill ch's), Purple (tweet ch's), Green (mid range ch's), Blue (mid bass ch's), Red (sub ch's). Then I also got 50 ft of black for the left channel, or whatever for all of those. You know how some rca's are red for one channel and black for the other. That was my idea anyway. It'll all be techflexed and heat shrunk anyway, but I'm a little OCD that way and since it was all the same price, why not right!! I got all that for $40.00 and I have in my hands now, instead of waiting for shipping etc. 

And really in comparison I only spent about 10.00 more than I would've on the Gepco because of shipping etc. So I'm ok with that.


----------



## chad

Star quad will drive you nuts working with it, BE VERY CAREFUL, it's a lot of wire in a RCA shell and getting it all in there without buggering it up can be rough.

use a very fine wire brush or stiff toothbrush to separate the braid.


----------



## scooter99

Ok will do. I plan to take my time with these. That's why I was saying I was thinking about doing on my vacation in my hotel room. If I can get the stuf there. Thanks for the tip though. Is it a pain because of the 4 wires in the little spaced jacket? What makes it so crazy, just curious about your opinion.


----------



## chad

scooter99 said:


> Ok will do. I plan to take my time with these. That's why I was saying I was thinking about doing on my vacation in my hotel room. If I can get the stuf there. Thanks for the tip though. Is it a pain because of the 4 wires in the little spaced jacket? What makes it so crazy, just curious about your opinion.


If I was whipping up cables in my hotel room on vacation my wife would divorce me.


----------



## capnxtreme

Cancerkazoo said:


> Did a cable for my HTPC a couple weeks ago withe some cat5, sounds good to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should have thrown some techflex on the ends though.


It's not like the outer sleeving is the weakpoint there, though. I would have put some heatshrink on those tiny stranded wires heading into the RCA barrel. Those are definitely the weakpoint of an RJ-45 cable, and IMHO, I would never, ever want to see them exposed at all outside the jacket.


----------



## scooter99

chad said:


> If I was whipping up cables in my hotel room on vacation my wife would divorce me.


Oh dude I hear you for sure. But I'm not going with my wife. I'm going with my step dad and step brothers. We're each going to have our own rooms so that's why I think it'll be a good thing. This is more relaxing to me than anything. I'm also planning to bring the laptop so I can post progressions as I go! Oh **** getting excited!!! Only 10 more days! 

After thinking a little bit about the whole getting the stuff there issues. I'm probably going to ship them via ups to the hotel. I'll do the stuff, then ship them back home. That way I don't have issues with the plane stuff. I'd hate to have to throw it all away cause I can't check it on the plane. And lets face it, soldering iron, heat tube gun, wires, connectors, etc. just looks a little fishy I'm sure. I mean we can't even wear shoes in the freakin airport anymore. Don't get me started!! 

After all that being said, Chad, NO WAY I'D DO IT ON VACATION WITH MY WIFE!!!! SELF OK, WITH WIFE, NOT OK!!


----------



## emperorjj1

lol ship it to the hotel and back... man thats harcore. **** i still havent even done the other side of the cable i got here waiting with all the supplies and a table and everything


----------



## scooter99

Well see, the problem is, at home I have no time, and what time I do have seems to get taken so quickly that I'll say here "I'm gonna get some stuff done this weekend" and practically by the time I'm done typing it out I'm getting something from my wife saying "we've got plans now this weekend". So if I end up with a trip like this where the only thing we really can do while we're there is the concerts, which we don't leave for until around 6, then it's a great opportunity to get some work done on the build. 

I worry about not being able to get some work done and my thread going stagnant again. We dont' want that either!


----------



## Cancerkazoo

capnxtreme said:


> It's not like the outer sleeving is the weakpoint there, though. I would have put some heatshrink on those tiny stranded wires heading into the RCA barrel. Those are definitely the weakpoint of an RJ-45 cable, and IMHO, I would never, ever want to see them exposed at all outside the jacket.


Yea, I'm planning on pulling the RCAs off and putting techflex on it, and also heat shrink on the twisted pairs. I'll have to drill the holes a little bigger though as the wall thickness on my heat shrink wont let it through the hole as is.


----------



## chad

Cancerkazoo said:


> Yea, I'm planning on pulling the RCAs off and putting techflex on it, and also heat shrink on the twisted pairs. I'll have to drill the holes a little bigger though as the wall thickness on my heat shrink wont let it through the hole as is.


You missed everything in this thread about shielding didn't you?

Because some hot-rod on an audio forum said cat-5 rocked as an audio interconnect. 

It's doesn't.... trust me, it sucks, I tried it. I even did it BALANCED which it looks as if you are not....


----------



## Cancerkazoo

chad said:


> You missed everything in this thread about shielding didn't you?
> 
> Because some hot-rod on an audio forum said cat-5 rocked as an audio interconnect.
> 
> It's doesn't.... trust me, it sucks, I tried it. I even did it BALANCED which it looks as if you are not....


Pretty much.... ran across the other thread 1st, I'll have to buy some Canare or other good wire and give it another shot.

I get no noise in the house over these interconnects atm though.


----------



## chad

Your house likely does not have an ECM shoving data everywhere and an electrically noisy fuel pump.... Don't use Canare, it's portable mic cable for stage use and a royal ***** to work with for standard unbalanced interconnect.. Use a proper install cable that's eons easier to work with and has better noise rejection.

It can be had for 20 cent-a-foot locally.


----------



## scooter99

Ok got my rca's today. I got the one's for the video cables as well. However, these are different than the neutriks for the audio sound. Those have the slot in the middle for the positive, then the hole through the side for the negative to solder to. With the video rca's they have the slot in the middle for the copper wire, but no hole on the side? isn't the braided wire around the outside supposed to get soldered to the side as the negative? Am I just comfusing everyone as well as myself? 

Chad, you said that I could use these neutrik's that I'm using as my audio signal rca's as well for the video correct? If so then wouldn't that require a positive and negative wire to be connected?

Oh I think i'm just comfusing myself more! ****!!


----------



## scooter99

Ok so I'm trying to understand this, and I know I'm going to expose the noobie in me on this, but can someone simply explain the difference between balanced and unbalanced connections?

In the beginning of this thread the cables made, are those considered balanced because it's a twisted pair with a neg. and pos.? 

Would a coax cable connection then be considered an unbalanced connection?

Am I on track? Or way off?


----------



## BettaJetta

Bringing this thread back to life. Here are my RCA's.

I originally purchased these cables from a company in Germany called AIV.....Colorado series RCA cables. I liked them but wanted in a custom length for my complete install. So I bought a reel and all the extras to make them.


----------



## chad

scooter99 said:


> Ok so I'm trying to understand this, and I know I'm going to expose the noobie in me on this, but can someone simply explain the difference between balanced and unbalanced connections?
> 
> In the beginning of this thread the cables made, are those considered balanced because it's a twisted pair with a neg. and pos.?
> 
> Would a coax cable connection then be considered an unbalanced connection?
> 
> Am I on track? Or way off?


It's unbalanced even though it may be going to a differential input. Balanced cabling has 2 audio lines, one inverted, one non-inverted, noise will hit both lines at once and the lines are IMPEDANCE BALANCED so it will be at the same level. When the inverted one reaches it's destination it's polarity is flipped the already flipped audio will now be IN polarity (phase) with the non inverted line but the noise on the inverted line will be 180 degrees out of phase to the noise ont he non inverted line and will cancel out...... the effectiveness of this is called CMRR, Common Mode Rejection Ratio.




And for those who wanted to see a bunch of gepflex in action......

1/2 way done with one patchbay.... 2 more full bays after this one is complete.....

Cellphone pic


----------



## scooter99

HOLY SH&TBALLS!!  Man that's a lot of cable.


----------



## chad

scooter99 said:


> HOLY SH&TBALLS!!  Man that's a lot of cable.


Good thing we don't remodel studios THAT often and try to plan ahead


----------



## scooter99

Man I would get so lost. But that's why I would build the studio and you would wire it!! :laugh:


----------



## scooter99

scooter99 said:


> Ok got my rca's today. I got the one's for the video cables as well. However, these are different than the neutriks for the audio sound. Those have the slot in the middle for the positive, then the hole through the side for the negative to solder to. With the video rca's they have the slot in the middle for the copper wire, but no hole on the side? isn't the braided wire around the outside supposed to get soldered to the side as the negative? Am I just comfusing everyone as well as myself?
> 
> Chad, you said that I could use these neutrik's that I'm using as my audio signal rca's as well for the video correct? If so then wouldn't that require a positive and negative wire to be connected?
> 
> Oh I think i'm just comfusing myself more! ****!!


Sorry chad i never got any answers to this, can you clear it up a little bit for me? Please.


----------



## SQ27801

I wind my own wire, thereby making the sound, IMOP, cleaner. The twist in most wire is 6 turns per inch, which is standard home to cancel the 60 hz signal found in home A/C power. I like mine twist tight.


----------



## chad

SQ27801 said:


> I wind my own wire, thereby making the sound, IMOP, cleaner. The twist in most wire is 6 turns per inch, which is standard home to cancel the 60 hz signal found in home A/C power. I like mine twist tight.


Do you have an impedance balanced send and receive?.. Because if you are running unbalanced you went thru a lot of work for nothing.


----------



## scooter99

Ok question! Here I am in my hotel room and I decided to try and add something to my rca bundles. But I wanna get confirmation before I do it. I want to run my remote wire into the RCA bundle. But I want to know if this is going to be a cause for noise. If it is then I'm not going to do it.

I got lots of pics to put up, but I forgot my cord for my camera to do it here. I'll have to do it when I get home.


----------



## chad

Don't put the remote inside the shield... just run a separate wire


----------



## emperorjj1

hey chad im getting some weird issues with my new rca's... the fronts where i have 3 wires combined into one are "cutting out" only thing i can think of is A something is touching and if thats the case i can try heat shrinking the pos and see if it helps... or B combining that many wires just doesnt work in a moving car environment

any advice? what do u think?


----------



## Austin

emperorjj1 said:


> hey chad I'm getting some weird issues with my new rca's... the fronts where i have 3 wires combined into one are "cutting out" only thing i can think of is A something is touching and if that's the case i can try heat shrinking the pos and see if it helps... or B combining that many wires just doesn't work in a moving car environment
> 
> any advice? what do u think?


I would say something is touching. There shouldn't be an issue with that many wires, at least to my knowledge.


----------



## chad

"3 wires combined into one" explain that..


----------



## scooter99

Yeah I think that's what I was talking about Chad. I wasn't going to use one of the wires in the Canare Quad, I was going to do the RCA's and then before I techflexed them all together I was going to add a separate wire to the bunch, then techflex it all together. 

I'm thinking I may not do it now anyway. We'll see. Everything is packed up now and ready to ship back home. We leave tomorrow morning at 930 so no time to finish now. I still have about 4 pairs of RCA's to finish up. But I'll do that at home. I'm happy with what I've done!


----------



## Sr SQ

^^ Canare Quad.... holly crap thats big wire for RCAs! R U talking about the 4 conductor 14g wire or a different one?
Heres the coax ones I just did for the install in my truck using Beldon 8241 RG-59/U and the cheap Street wires ends I bought off ebay. Havent fired it up yet to see how they sound but the last ones I made this way seemed great?


----------



## emperorjj1

^^^ Sr SQ, that looks damn good


chad said:


> "3 wires combined into one" explain that..


i have the 12 pair gepflex and my front speaker setup is 3 way active with 2 processors in the back. So for the 2 front rcas there are 3 pairs per rca... meaning 3 pos, 3 neg, 3 drain all in a single rca.


----------



## chad

emperorjj1 said:


> ^^^ Sr SQ, that looks damn good
> 
> 
> i have the 12 pair gepflex and my front speaker setup is 3 way active with 2 processors in the back. So for the 2 front rcas there are 3 pairs per rca... meaning 3 pos, 3 neg, 3 drain all in a single rca.


That's A LOT of wire in one shell, there has to be a better way to do it.


----------



## emperorjj1

ya i know what do u think chad.... i didn't want to use y splitters but i think the issue im having fitting all that in a single rca is the fact im soldering with a metcal and im not that great at soldering... so I'm thinking its heating up the pos jacket so much its melting it to the point it looks fine but moving in the car it will touch.

the reason I'm confused and was hoping to have that work is the 3 channels i need for my fronts. Think i could make a 2 pair work on a single shell?


----------



## scooter99

So I've got the pictures ready, but I'm not going to post here. I'm going to post on my thread. Reason being is because there are about 47 pics to post up and that's a lot for this thread. Although it mostly has to do with this thread. It's not that hard to look there. Here's the link. 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/63640-2006-civic-ex-final-re-install-2.html


----------



## scooter99

Ok ya'll I had some issues loading pictures, but I've got it figured out now. I'll be posting in a bit! Sorry for the delay.


----------



## dennisjiang

thank you for showing me how to make my own interconnect cable..


----------



## savagebee

well, I took the plunge
200 feet of gepco 61801ez, and 20 neuretik NYS352

wish me luck!


----------



## chad

The party is on


----------



## scooter99

:beerchug:epper:


----------



## savagebee

well ****, I needed 24 connectors, oh well, Ill order some more.


----------



## chad

LOL


Remember the 61801 tricks.

1. Don't use a stripper, SCORE the outer sheath with a razor knive and snap it, then it will slide off, if oyu even so much as NICK an inner conductor you will know it when you solder. It's called EZ because of the score-snap thing  If you nick an inner wire, start over, don't even try it.

2. the inner insulation IS heat sensitive, if you are a slow solderer than you will find this out quick, heat on, heat off, keep the heat on too long and you won't have insulation.

3. Because of the above strip off less insulation than you think you will need to, it will pull back on the conductor with heat.


----------



## savagebee

thanks Chad, Ive read this whole thread numerous times. I think Im going to complie it all together if I get the time, to maker it an easier reference for everyone

yeah, I order 200 ft when I "should" only need 120 ft, so Im hopefully way overestimating.

Ill screw up plenty, but I have plenty of stuff to work with


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> LOL
> 
> 
> Remember the 61801 tricks.
> 
> 1. Don't use a stripper, SCORE the outer sheath with a razor knive and snap it, then it will slide off, if oyu even so much as NICK an inner conductor you will know it when you solder. It's called EZ because of the score-snap thing  If you nick an inner wire, start over, don't even try it.
> 
> 2. the inner insulation IS heat sensitive, if you are a slow solderer than you will find this out quick, heat on, heat off, keep the heat on too long and you won't have insulation.
> 
> 3. Because of the above strip off less insulation than you think you will need to, it will pull back on the conductor with heat.



wow ive broken pretty much all of these rules. no wonder im having issues


----------



## JayinMI

I just went through all 22 pages of this thread, and I could have sworn Chad (pretty sure it was him) had a video of him soldering on an RCA end. But now I can't find it (I hope I didn't miss it, it was 22 damn pages!  ) If it was Chad, can you repost it here (or a link to it if it was in a different thread?

Thanks.

Jay


----------



## chad

I did not do a vid of a RCA,


----------



## JayinMI

Must have been someone else, then. Whoops.

You know, in going through this thread yesterday, toward the beginning you said something like "in a car, 99.9999999% of the the time you need to attach the drain and the black at both ends. Connect it at both ends, and lift if you have noise." Then after that it seems that the consensus (and this was confirmed by you) was that you only need to connect it at one end. (Unbalanced signals, btw) Did I misunderstand?

BTW, Chad, thanks for all the very useful info on noise rejection and cable construction. (seriously, I appreciate it.)

Jay


----------



## chad

Yeah, just the source end for the shield..... I'll try to read back to when I said that and figure out what I was thinking.


----------



## xlynoz

Anyone ever try these connectors? They look nice but you know that doesn't mean much.
4-pair,Gold-Plated RCA 7mm Cable Plug/Connector,RB007 - eBay (item 300266370510 end time Nov-08-09 16:41:26 PST)


----------



## Megalomaniac

xlynoz said:


> Anyone ever try these connectors? They look nice but you know that doesn't mean much.
> 4-pair,Gold-Plated RCA 7mm Cable Plug/Connector,RB007 - eBay (item 300266370510 end time Nov-08-09 16:41:26 PST)


eek at $3.75 a connector, I think that is too expensive. The Neutriks that I really dig, thanks to chad, cost only $1.25 each.


----------



## xlynoz

Megalomaniac said:


> eek at $3.75 a connector, I think that is too expensive. The Neutriks that I really dig, thanks to chad, cost only $1.25 each.


That's actually $9.99 for 4 pair (8 pieces), so actually it comes out less than then neutriks $1.24875 :laugh:


----------



## scooter99

I was going to get these same exact one's, when I was looking a while ago, but I went with the Neutriks because of the name and I didn't want color on my connectors. I was going to use heatshrink based on my components to identify the rca's. I LOVE MY NEUTRIK'S! They were easy to work with, and they look sweeeeeeeett!! But to each is own!


----------



## scooter99

By the way here are my cables:

I actually did the two long runs from the front with the gepco wire. Very nice, very easy to work with. Here's the install, or the build, or however you wanna call it. 





This one has the jacket wire on it to connect to a ground wire. Forgot to take pictures of that but you'll see it attached in the final picture. 


Tied it all together with some black heatshrink to protect it. 



This is the main run. You can see the two ground wires off the one side of these cables, that's the head unit side.


The Video's Audio Run, yellow heatshrink to identify. Also with the ground wires attached. 


One thing I can say is that my soldering has gotten better with each of these I've done, in my opinion anyway! I did the rest of the cables in canari quad!


----------



## scooter99

Here are the other runs of canari star quad! These were not nearly as easy to work with. Jacket did not come off as easily as the gepco, and the sheilding was a braded pain in the ass to undo to get to the wires. I highly reccomend investing in a pick to use these wires. It came in very handy!! On to the pics.

Apparently I did not detail the pics as much as the gepco but here's what I have on puting them together. 


Clear heatshrink this time to cover them up. I figured I'd do the labels and the protector shield at the same go round. Worked out pretty well.


Here's the other side, yellow, with the cap on. 


Now since this I've changed the sub line from yellow to red. Reason being is that I have yellow on the video lines, main run from head unit, and on the video cable from the head unit. I wanted to stay in sequence. So sub's are now red and the rear fill audio for the video is now yellow. 

Was the subs.


Now subs.


Now rear fill.


Mid Bass.


Mid Range.


Tweets.


All my rca's are done now! I have now, two pairs (left and right in a pair) of runs from the head unit, one main and one for video audio. I also have 5 pairs from the processor to the amps.


----------



## scooter99

Lastly, because I haven't seen much of this in here, here's my video cable run! I used canare RG 59U coax cable. I'm also using the same Neutrik connectors that I used for my RCA's (NYS352). Onto the pics. 







Heatshrink protected.


Cap on.


Finished off with some techflex and some yellow heat shrink to identify it as video.


That's all! What does everyone think?

By the way I did continuity tests and all test great. Also I used the video cable on my home units and it works perfectly. No issues on screen what so ever! I'm excited to get these in the car and see what happens!


----------



## Megalomaniac

xlynoz said:


> That's actually $9.99 for 4 pair (8 pieces), so actually it comes out less than then neutriks $1.24875 :laugh:


Ah I thought it was 4 pieces and $10+$5 shipping


----------



## scottyfkachris

im gonna have to try this on my new build


----------



## ihartred

Hadn't seen this in this thread yet so I thought I'd post up










Shoelace as Techflex


----------



## ItalynStylion

Woah....I'm not sure how protective that is but I'll certainly admire the innovation! That's a cool idea!


----------



## Lnh

I don't really care how protective it is, that's pretty cool lol.

For home theater I think it'd be just fine...mobile I wouldn't chance it.


----------



## chad

chance what?

I think it's kickass and I hate techflex for the most part, or any covering for that matter.


----------



## savagebee

Im making my wife a cable to plug her creative zen 60 gig player into her new impala. Im going to have to use some of the shoelaces. Thats a cool idea.


----------



## Lnh

chad said:


> chance what?
> 
> I think it's kickass and I hate techflex for the most part, or any covering for that matter.


I wouldn't want to take the chance of the covering not withstanding the car environment: i.e. rubbing, vibrating, kinks, wearing faster from getting them wet cause they're underneath the carpet and it's raining outside, etc. I just personally prefer everything in my car to be able to withstand whatever may be thrown at it and still perform up to my standards. In home theatre it's not that hard for me to replace something and hide everything again (cause I do it that way on purpose)...in car audio it's annoying to have to tear out my interior because the jacket on my cables got worn through (learned this the hard way on my very first install).

This can all be avoided through install but sometimes it's a lot simpler to not have to avoid every little thing. If any of that makes any sense lol.

And like I said, I think it's kickass too, awesome idea.


----------



## chad

Actually techflex can aid in abrasion if you live in a coastal or arid place, it will allow for sand/dirt infiltration and fits tight enough to REALLY rub. taped split loom excels in that instance, but it's not pretty, which in reality is what most go for.


----------



## Lnh

chad said:


> Actually techflex can aid in abrasion if you live in a coastal or arid place, it will allow for sand/dirt infiltration and fits tight enough to REALLY rub. taped split loom excels in that instance, but it's not pretty, which in reality is what most go for.


Good point, I hadn't thought of sand/dirt with techflex. There's gotta be something besides split loom that offers good protection against abrasion and looks better. Silicone hose would be nice but it tears on corners too easily, plus it's pretty expensive though easy to find.


----------



## chad

damn, could you imagine trying to push 25' of wire thru silicone hose? Prison camp


----------



## Lnh

Rofl, no kidding.


----------



## slowimpreza

damn i've spent 2 nights reading this entire thread and couldn't resist. ordered my canare, techflex, and neutriks. can't wait! thanks to the OP and the continuing contributors!!


----------



## Lnh

I want to see someone use the Kevlar Techflex lol


----------



## chad

FWIW red gepco under CF techflex is drop dead sexy.


----------



## Lnh

Ooo, that does sound amazing. I need to find a place around me that carries install wire so I can get thinking about making some rca's for myself soon.


----------



## SummerGuy

nice


----------



## chad

LoudCav said:


> Ooo, that does sound amazing. I need to find a place around me that carries install wire so I can get thinking about making some rca's for myself soon.


I call that motif Scarlet In Stockings


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> Actually techflex can aid in abrasion if you live in a coastal or arid place, it will allow for sand/dirt infiltration and fits tight enough to REALLY rub. taped split loom excels in that instance, but it's not pretty, which in reality is what most go for.


couldnt u just put the techflex over the tapped split loom?


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> FWIW red gepco under CF techflex is drop dead sexy.


pics!!!


----------



## chad

I made it for a person at work, BUT I'll be using it next week.


----------



## silverdiesel2574

PICS!!! Please


----------



## slowimpreza

I really wish I ordered a dark color techflex now instead of pearlescent white lol, not what I expected.


----------



## slowimpreza

canare star
pearlescent techflex 3/8"
nys352 ends

my first attempt at cables. ehhh..


----------



## chad

it sucked getting that quad in those connectors in a reliable manner didn't it?

Why people insist on starquad is beyond me. Mogami makes a cable that's only one pair that has WAY better properties and is easier to work with.


----------



## Lnh

chad said:


> it sucked getting that quad in those connectors in a reliable manner didn't it?
> 
> Why people insist on starquad is beyond me. Mogami makes a cable that's only one pair that has WAY better properties and is easier to work with.


Post a link then foo! btw, we're all waiting to see the Scarlet in Stockings cables still 

And I'm really not a fan of the pearlescent...ugghhh


----------



## slowimpreza

chad said:


> it sucked getting that quad in those connectors in a reliable manner didn't it?
> 
> Why people insist on starquad is beyond me. Mogami makes a cable that's only one pair that has WAY better properties and is easier to work with.


my god yes. the only reason I used star quad was cause the OP used it. I read the whole thread and really had no clue on the quality of other cables mentioned so I just decided to play it safe with the canare. the cables didn't even work the first time, I was pissed.. then again, I'm no pro with the soldering iron either, lol. I'm happy with them now though.


----------



## chad

LOL, I had a bunch of canare here one night and decided to make 10 short RCA jumpers for something I was building......I was completely drunk as a skunk by the time I was done.


----------



## slowimpreza

LoudCav said:


> Post a link then foo! btw, we're all waiting to see the Scarlet in Stockings cables still
> 
> And I'm really not a fan of the pearlescent...ugghhh


yeah I'm not a big fan of the pearlescent either.. when it came in I was like


----------



## MaXaZoR

Well I glanced through all 15 pages of this thread and thought most of the information was great. However I'm surprised nobody talked about trying different types of cabling and seeing if they get improved results in SQ or noise levels. 

I see alot of great DIY cables here
but I'm having a hard time in choosing which one to build? While most will argue, Cable is cable and your ears cannot precieve an accousitic benefits a cable might bring especially in a car. I find it hard to believe this is 100% true since people are still out there buying $20,000 cables. So my basic question, if I wanted to step up a level from basic cabling and connectors, what are the pro's and con's (besides more $$ from my wallet).


----------



## chad

Look for a low capacitance and the best shielding. keep in mind that every taking canare and twisting all 4 inner conductors together are QUADRUPLING the capacitance of the cable. But they dig the way it looks so it's all good


----------



## IBcivic

chad said:


> damn, could you imagine trying to push 25' of wire thru silicone hose? Prison camp


i've heard of ''she can suck a bowling ball through a garden hose''. so it probably could be done.

tying a pull string to a wad and pushing it through the hose using compressed air... then use the string to pull the cable through, using plenty of electrician's lube[clear boy-butter]

then again...is it worth the hassle?


----------



## ihartred

MaXaZoR said:


> . I find it hard to believe this is 100% true since people are still out there buying $20,000 cables.


in one minute of exercise a day, you too can have a six pack with my $19.99 invention


----------



## chad

ihartred said:


> in one minute of exercise a day, you too can have a six pack with my $19.99 invention


That's the perfect answer.

Sometimes I wrap a 20,000 cable around my belly over night and I lose 10 Lbs.. then a pioneer headunit blows a Pico Fuse.


----------



## Megalomaniac

chad said:


> That's the perfect answer.
> 
> Sometimes I wrap a 20,000 cable around my belly over night and I lose 10 Lbs.. then a pioneer headunit blows a Pico Fuse.


Do you know where exactly the pico fuse is located on the pioneers? Maybe people can start by just putting a bead of solder where the fuse is.


----------



## chad

waste of good solder


----------



## KP Texan

After reading through the thread, I've decided to go with Gepco 61801EZ for my cable with the Rean NYS373 plugs. What size Techflex is the best fit to bundle two of the 61801EZs together? Also, what size heatshrink is best to go over the techflex and bundle the two 61801EZs together? I was thinking about running one channel with black Gepco and one channel with red Gepco to distinguish them but will I need to heatshrink the individual cables where they go into the RCA plugs? I'm hoping the outer jacket of the 61801EZ is good enough just bare.

Thanks so much,

Wes


----------



## KP Texan

Bump


----------



## chad

any reason for techflex? yu can send me the extra money and I'll happily spend it on bourbon!


----------



## KP Texan

chad said:


> any reason for techflex? yu can send me the extra money and I'll happily spend it on bourbon!


I like the look of RCA cables in post 302...I think both wires bundles up together in the techflex looks pretty cool and these will be in certain places where they can be seen. I'll actually be getting the generic techflex from Redco so I'll save some cash there.

Thanks,

Wes


Update:
Okay after running a few calcs: Dia. of 61801EZ is .138" so the circumference of 2 bundled together would be roughly .71" (assuming flat top and bottom). This corresponds to a circle diameter of .226", so I would say that .25" Techflex would do the trick to bundle two of them together. Obviously, each individual wire would work well with .125" Techflex.


----------



## BMWturbo

Hi Guys,

I've been searching and can't find any information on what I'm looking for. Perhaps I'm looking for the wrong thing.

I will be finally making my run of interconnects very soon, but I'm tempted to find a 'better' alternative to RCA connectors.

I have a CD7200 and am using it in 3-way mode, so will need a run of 6 cables total to the amps/processor, but am trying to find something neater for the dash then a bunch of 6 RCA plugs/sockets.

Does anyone have any experience using a different connector (12-way at least) to the normal RCA leads and should I be concerned with the lack of 'shielding' over the plug union.

I have a bunch of A/C controls and steppers motors for the A/C in right near where the connection would be made.

Thanks in advance.

Ben


----------



## chad

Switchcraft A7M/A7F

Common shield.. meter them 

But I really don't see the point in it as you will never squeeze the eclipse wiring int eh shell.


----------



## BMWturbo

chad said:


> Switchcraft A7M/A7F
> 
> Common shield.. meter them
> 
> But I really don't see the point in it as you will never squeeze the eclipse wiring int eh shell.


They appear to be a normal Mic 'XLR' connector size? I guess it makes sense to tie all 6-ouput 'reference' pins from the HU to a single pin and split after this.

I'm a bit more concerned it might be a bit of a nightmare getting 6 runs of Gepco into the other connector also the 6 drain wires and 6 transmission wires to single pin 

I think you've convinced me this mightent be practical.


----------



## chad

Yep, normal XLR shell, and you are NOT gettin 6 Gepco's in there, 3 yes, 6 no. After you pull the RCA's off of the eclipse, shove, or attempt to shove them in in an A housing then convert back and forth you have shot yourself in the foot. Honestly man, a lower profile RCA is your best bet unfortunately. 

NOW if you need an all-in-wonder removable signal connector for a race vehicle in the trunk, bu ALL MEANS, do a quick multi connect somehow.. there are others out there that are, albeit more bulky, and not dash-able, but very trunk-able.


----------



## BMWturbo

Thanks Chad, I've actually got all the parts there including RCA connectors etc to make them, but I've been looking at the 6 RCA (well 8 including the Aux IN) pairs behind the dash a bit lately and it's lead me investigate another solution.

As for removing the stereo for the strip, I'm too lazy to do that, much easier to wind another psi of boost into it


----------



## chad

A couple PSI or not, that extra PSI can be used without audio 

Been there, the truck comes apart VERY FAST.

I'm a quick-remove type of guy, including my commuter with audio on top of a spare tire.

As for RCAs, and SMALL, if you can still get old skool Switchcraft 3502's, NOT 3502A's and are creative with heatshrink and soldering.. they are VERY low profile.

I had to investigate low profile for my install as it's pretty damn tight... but I scored some cheap that worked and not as small as 3502's


----------



## hackaphile

I'm trying to do my very first install and am thrift minded so I hate paying shipping, as well as, like learning and building stuff. I'm sold on the GepcoEZ (or similar) and budget minded connectors. I can get into Dallas, TX fairly easily but cannot seem to find a AV house like Chad spoke of. Can someone who knows (or a local) help me with a link or proper search terms to find a local source.


----------



## PeteW

hackaphile said:


> I'm trying to do my very first install and am thrift minded so I hate paying shipping, as well as, like learning and building stuff. I'm sold on the GepcoEZ (or similar) and budget minded connectors. I can get into Dallas, TX fairly easily but cannot seem to find a AV house like Chad spoke of. Can someone who knows (or a local) help me with a link or proper search terms to find a local source.


Most custom home electronics/home theater/home automation shops will sell bulk wire out of their warehouse. I am not talking about best buy or tweeter type retail stores, but the true custom guys. You should be able to find a listing online by searching your area for dealers that install AMX/Crestron/Integra/ADA etc. products or call some pro-audio supply houses.

The custom home guys will probably make you fairly cheap custom length cables out of either RG59 or mini-coax (3-6 channel 23 or 25 guage coax in a single jacket) with nice compression fittings too.


----------



## BMWturbo

Conceded to the RCA Connectors....


----------



## skydeaner

this stuff looks good, individually shielded pairs... what ya think?


----------



## javiertoti

Hi. I'm thinkining in Belden 8451 for my car.
Belden 8451 1 pair 22 awg Shielded Audio, Control and Instrumentation Cable | tselectronic.com

Is it possible? Any other better of this brand?

Thanks!


----------



## chad

yep, damn near the same as the Gepco. That's what we use here at work because we get belden cheaper.


----------



## javiertoti

chad said:


> yep, damn near the same as the Gepco. That's what we use here at work because we get belden cheaper.


Thanks chad


----------



## javiertoti

What is the best?

*BELDEN 8451 1Pair 22AWG










Pairs: 1
AWG: 22
Stranding: 7x30
Conductor Material: TC - Tinned Copper
Insulation Material: PP - Polypropylene
Outer Jacket Material: PVC - Polyvinyl Chloride
Outer Shield Trade Name: Beldfoil® (Z-Fold®)
Outer Shield Material: Aluminum Foil-Polyester Tape
Plenum (Y/N): No
Impedance: 45 Ohm
Voltage: 300 V RMS
*
OR

*BELDEN 8762 1Pair 20AWG










Pairs: 1
AWG: 20
Stranding: 7x28
Conductor Material: TC - Tinned Copper
Insulation Material: PE - Polyethylene
Outer Jacket Material: PVC - Polyvinyl Chloride
Outer Shield Trade Name: Beldfoil®
Outer Shield Material: Aluminum Foil-Polyester Tape w/Shorting Fold
Plenum (Y/N): No
Impedance: 56 Ohm
Voltage: 300 V RMS 

*


They have different impedances and i doubt.

Thanks!


----------



## chad

They are both going to be the same performance in your app, the 8451 is thinner for ease of installation and easier to work with.


----------



## hackaphile

I found some Carol Brand (22-2 foil shield w/ drain) by General Cable for 20¢/ft at Home Depot. No shipping! Seems just like the Gepco and Belden - but then I'm a hack.

Michael


----------



## javiertoti

chad said:


> They are both going to be the same performance in your app, the 8451 is thinner for ease of installation and easier to work with.


Ok but talking about the impedance... the higher the better?



Thanks!!


----------



## chad

it does not make a difference at audio frequencies.


----------



## antnbarao

Parabens pelo topico!!!!


----------



## antnbarao

great topic, I'm doing


----------



## antnbarao

DIY DIY


----------



## SakeBomb

Quick question:

If I go with Gepco 61801EZ and Neutrik connectors, twisting the ground and drain wire together at the source, what do you do with the drain wire at the other end? Snip it off? Bend it back and heat shrink over it?


----------



## chad

snip and heatshrink to make sure it cannot touch the sleeve.


----------



## SakeBomb

Thanks Chad.

Going to place my order tonight.


----------



## e36bumpin

Man, those are some beautiful RCA's! Thank you for this write up...


----------



## mattyjman

alrght guys, i am going to need some help here... i went with the nuetrik connectors and the gepco ez wire as recommended. in the packages they included some stuff and i'm not sure where it all comes into play... 

but first i want to clarify something....there is a black wire and a non wrapped wire, silver, this would be the ground and drain, correct? the drain is connected with the ground on the signal input side, but clipped and only ground wired on the output side, correct. 

can someone explain the assembly process here... i have two different shots... one with the male rca connector










and one with a femal connector. 










can someone explain where all these parts go cause i am either dumb or missing something...


----------



## mattyjman

bumb... anybody have any insight...????


----------



## chad

big shell, then the strain relief of your choice, then chuck then connector the chuck semicircle fits in to complete the ring on the connector so it won't turn.


----------



## mattyjman

thanks chad i think that makes sense... is wiring on these the same even though it doesn't have the longer (crimp style) ground tap on the connector?


----------



## chad

The band of heat shrink gives the chuck something to bite, the gepco is too thin for it to get a good bite on.


----------



## mattyjman

chad, thanks for you assistance.. i was able to do 12 sets of RCA cables yesterday in about 4 hours! while i was no means "fast" everything went off without a hitch. you are always helpful on here and wanted you to know that you're appreciated. you've helped me on numerous occasions so thanks.


----------



## JayinMI

X2!!


----------



## javiertoti

I've finally been able to get Canare cable in my country. I've bought Canare L4ES but i have several doubts.

What should i do with the shield finally? I have a mess. Connect it in a side but not in the other? Like that?


RCA (Head) - White/White ///////// GROUND Blue/Blue/Shield

RCA (Tail) - White/White ///////// GROUND Blue/Blue


----------



## chad

correct... why the need for such a robust stage cable for a permanent application?


----------



## javiertoti

chad said:


> correct... why the need for such a robust stage cable for a permanent application?


Really i don't know. 
What do you suggest? to do a rca stero cable? or cheaper brand?


----------



## jasondplacetobe

excellent post thank you


----------



## mattyjman

jasondplacetobe said:


> excellent post thank you


working your post count..?? nice.. only 15 more to go:kaboom:


----------



## elsporko

I've made my own instrument cables; i'll have to give this a shot. Any idea why monoprice doesn't sell the RCA male plugs? (or i'm blind and couldn't find them).


----------



## dch828

illnastyimpreza said:


> any negatives to running both L and R channel down the one run of cable?
> 
> also, I have been looking @ RCA connectors but the good ones are QUITE expensive. Can anyone recomend a GOOD connector to use for around a couple buck a a piece?


I like the neutrik RCA connectors. You can get them for $1.08 at Redco Redco Audio - Neutrik NYS352G

They are large enough to fit over thick jackets and I find that most of the Neutrik's are good quality and easier to solder than many other brands.


----------



## Sans Pants

Fantastic thread! I can not wait to give this a shot. Godspeed big brown truck.


----------



## alachua

Does anyone have a source for reasonably priced short RCA ends? I am looking to build my own cables, but having my processor under the seat means depth is an issue. I can't seem to find any short ends available for purchase at PE, Ebay or any of the sites listed in this thread.


----------



## mattyjman

alachua said:


> Does anyone have a source for reasonably priced short RCA ends? I am looking to build my own cables, but having my processor under the seat means depth is an issue. I can't seem to find any short ends available for purchase at PE, Ebay or any of the sites listed in this thread.


pm trevordj, he made some using right angle rca's but not sure where he got them... also, for my last install i also had a tight space to work with, so i bought some right angle adapters from PE and that worked as well...


----------



## alachua

Thanks for the tip, but the right angle adapters won't work with the channel configuration I have on the MS8, since almost all the RCA outputs will be used, aside from two that are a vertical pair. I'm hoping to find something like the ends on the Monster Cable, Tsunami or Streetwires, where the barrel is only 1" deep or so.


----------



## shibbydevil

mattyjman said:


> working your post count..?? nice.. only 15 more to go:kaboom:


hehe:disguise:


no in all seriousness, I didnt want to read through all 26 pages of posts, did anyone decide what the definitive wire was to use in the automotive application... I have lots of mic cable here but there was some discussion on how some folks didnt find that suitable.


----------



## capnxtreme

*There is no definitive wire. In theory, though, you should use twisted pair wire for balanced inputs, and coax for unbalanced.

I don't see why any mic cable wouldn't work just fine.*


----------



## ttocs388

I bought a spool of stinger rca cable, twisted pair balanced HPM wire. Its the thickest rca cable I have ever held and seems to be a good cable. It has the twisted pair, as well as a single uninsulate wire twisted together(ground?). Those three wires are covered by a foil shield, and then covered with a braided shield. My question then is should I ground the braided shield? I didn't but I figured it wouldn't really matter since it was probably grounded through teh foil shield touching the ground wire but was just curious what the general idea was.


----------



## chad

capnxtreme said:


> *There is no definitive wire. In theory, though, you should use twisted pair wire for balanced inputs, and coax for unbalanced.
> 
> I don't see why any mic cable wouldn't work just fine.*


It's not that it does not WORK it's that there are better for the application. As posted before a Mosin Nagant will kill a squirrel, but it's messy to say the least. Mic cable does not have a foil shield generally, it's also larger and built more durable for constant flexing and wrapping, things that don't happen in a car. A proper lightweight install grade cable generally has a lower capacitance, better shielding, is easier to work with, (less margin for error and headache) is cheaper, and lays better under carpeting.


----------



## ttocs388

I see no problem with the mic cable, but this cable is a step up from anything I have used prior.


----------



## chad

ttocs388 said:


> I bought a spool of stinger rca cable, twisted pair balanced HPM wire. Its the thickest rca cable I have ever held and seems to be a good cable. It has the twisted pair, as well as a single uninsulate wire twisted together(ground?). Those three wires are covered by a foil shield, and then covered with a braided shield. My question then is should I ground the braided shield? I didn't but I figured it wouldn't really matter since it was probably grounded through teh foil shield touching the ground wire but was just curious what the general idea was.


Ground the shield at the sending end only. like the headunit, output of a processor, etc. if there's signal coming out of it ground it there every time. at the receiving end let the shield float.



ttocs388 said:


> I see no problem with the mic cable, but this cable is a step up from anything I have used prior.


Not to be snooty but chances are that the mc cable is better at it's APPLICATION and the stinger would suck as a microphone cable


----------



## capnxtreme

*Thanks Big Daddy.*


----------



## emak212

Excellent tutorial! I'm going to try this out as soon as I purchase my new stereo setup.


----------



## ErinH

just popping in here as I recently built some new runs and will be doing about 12 more pair after these 2 pair.

I ordered belden 1505f coax cable from rawcable.com, in blue, over a year ago. I had a good bit left over so I ordered some more in black. However, I found markertek to have the best price (however, they don't sell colored variants, so you can only get black) @ 
The cable is VERY flexible. I absoultely love it. The capacitance is pretty low. I think it's second only to the custom belden L-1C that bluejeanscable sells (fwiw, they also own rawcable.com). I know it is expensive compared to the cheaper gepco cable, but this cable is just really nice. Plus, it's double shield and polyethelene core supposedly helps make it more resistant to EMI, making it a great for my lousy noise-ridden civic. Or maybe I just bought into the marketing... either way, I really do like this cable a lot. Much more so than some of the random mic cables I've used this past year.

I also went with black neutrik NYS352BG (black shell with gold male) & NYS352BAG (black shell with nickel male) connectors. I like these a lot as they are very easy to assemble. Simply solder the male and then crimp/clamp down the female. 

So, here are a few pictures for those who are interested. I thought I had posted some a while back from my previous build, but I guess I didn't. I made 2 sets: each with blue/black cable to help me keep things separated a bit.


----------



## amungal

Very informative...


----------



## EEB

bikinpunk said:


> just popping in here as I recently built some new runs and will be doing about 12 more pair after these 2 pair.
> 
> I ordered belden 1505f coax cable from rawcable.com, in blue, over a year ago. I had a good bit left over so I ordered some more in black. However, I found markertek to have the best price (however, they don't sell colored variants, so you can only get black) @
> The cable is VERY flexible. I absoultely love it. The capacitance is pretty low. I think it's second only to the custom belden L-1C that bluejeanscable sells (fwiw, they also own rawcable.com). I know it is expensive compared to the cheaper gepco cable, but this cable is just really nice. Plus, it's double shield and polyethelene core supposedly helps make it more resistant to EMI, making it a great for my lousy noise-ridden civic. Or maybe I just bought into the marketing... either way, I really do like this cable a lot. Much more so than some of the random mic cables I've used this past year.
> 
> I also went with black neutrik NYS352BG (black shell with gold male) & NYS352BAG (black shell with nickel male) connectors. I like these a lot as they are very easy to assemble. Simply solder the male and then crimp/clamp down the female.
> 
> So, here are a few pictures for those who are interested. I thought I had posted some a while back from my previous build, but I guess I didn't. I made 2 sets: each with blue/black cable to help me keep things separated a bit.


Can you provide a link to the belden L-1C cable on the bluejeanscable site? I looked but didn't find it and don't see a search button.

Also how long are the connectors that you used?

Thanks


----------



## ttocs388

I have some rca cable for sale if you want some good stuff.


----------



## antnbarao

I thought about my ride as well but I am afraid if this form is not in danger of dropping out because it was at the very tip??
Ouvir
Ler foneticamente
Dicionário - Ver dicionário detalhado


----------



## SPLaddict

Nice tutorial thx!


----------



## emperorjj1

damn bikini that looks like an awesome job and a hell of alot easier then what i was trying to do.

my diy rca project is a big flop so im probably going to end up just buying some rcas. bikini's pics look pretty easy and something i could handle but idk i was having mad issues with mine. anyway is there any resale value in this cable?


----------



## cthip

awesome thread--well worth the long read

my small contribution: the neutrik nys373 connectors are available here for $1.24 each, free shipping, no minimum order. the nys352 are also available for $0.80 each

Neutrik NYS373-0 High Quality Black Phono RCA plug with Gold contacts


----------



## maKe|

Wohoo just bought 6 meters of Schulz IK5 cable and 12 neutrik profi connectors. Gonna make three 1m pair interconnects for my 4ch amp and sub amp. All soldered using Cardas quad eutetic solder with small amount of silver included.

Should make pretty decent sounding interconnects.


----------



## edouble101

I never made RCA's.

I have been ready through the pages for a couple hours now. Researching links and comparing prices.

I would like to make my own RCA's going from my EQ/crossover to amplifiers (trunk mounted less than 4' runs). I think(?) RG59 is the best cable for my needs based on quality and price. Right?

I am really stumped on RCA connectors though. More research.....


----------



## emperorjj1

couldnt tell u on connectors... but my main issue is soldering abilities


----------



## Ludemandan

I like the P3 plugs from Parts Express. Good looking, relatively easy to solder, not expensive. P3 RCA Connectors Satin Nickel Finish 2 Red/2 Black | Parts-Express.com


----------



## edouble101

Ludemandan said:


> I like the P3 plugs from Parts Express. Good looking, relatively easy to solder, not expensive. P3 RCA Connectors Satin Nickel Finish 2 Red/2 Black | Parts-Express.com


I like the short body on these and the price. Do you think the inlet is big enough for 0.242" (6.15mm) Belden 1505F cable? Are they easy to enlarge? I read a couple reviews that said 3-4mm max.

Can you post a pic with the case off the connector? 

Thanks.


----------



## lostthumb

I was able to make a set over the holidays.


----------



## emperorjj1

nice


----------



## edman79

lostthumb said:


> I was able to make a set over the holidays.


 What components did you use? And what techflex size?

Thank You

Eddie Ed


----------



## lostthumb

emperorjj1 said:


> nice


Thanks! Techflex and heatshrink goes a long way to dressing them up.


----------



## lostthumb

edman79 said:


> What components did you use? And what techflex size?
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Eddie Ed


Eddie, I used Eichmann bullets with Cardas Crosslink cable for the interconnects.

Techflex is charcoal gray and is 1/4". The heatshrink is 12mm that shrinks to a 3:1 ratio.


----------



## Ludemandan

edouble101 said:


> I like the short body on these and the price. Do you think the inlet is big enough for 0.242" (6.15mm) Belden 1505F cable? Are they easy to enlarge? I read a couple reviews that said 3-4mm max.
> 
> Can you post a pic with the case off the connector?
> 
> Thanks.


Sure. This picture shows an opening of 6.14 mm, but it also read 6.15 mm so it should be perfect.


----------



## edouble101

Ludemandan said:


> Sure. This picture shows an opening of 6.14 mm, but it also read 6.15 mm so it should be perfect.


Great, thanks for the reply.


----------



## piyush7243

i got a Beldon 26AWG star quad. Would it work or will there be a loss in SQ here


----------



## chad

no real reason to use quad cable at all. but if you have it and can tolerate the PITA of working it into an RCA connector then knock yourself out.


----------



## emperorjj1

mind i ask what a quad cable is? just got round 1 of my replacement rcas. sucks i couldn't get them going good myself but oh well


----------



## edouble101

emperorjj1 said:


> mind i ask what a quad cable is? just got round 1 of my replacement rcas. sucks i couldn't get them going good myself but oh well


Did you look at post #1?


----------



## emperorjj1

oh lol wow im retarted


----------



## edouble101

emperorjj1 said:


> oh lol wow im retarted


it happens


----------



## emperorjj1

YouTube - Mike Epps "I been in Special Ed all my life"


----------



## piyush7243

chad said:


> no real reason to use quad cable at all. but if you have it and can tolerate the PITA of working it into an RCA connector then knock yourself out.


i was thinking in terms of the thickness of a 26AWG wire. Will it suffice?


----------



## chad

yes.


----------



## blueatlanta

i skipped some posts, but i keep seeing people use the quad mic cable to make 1 pair of rcas. has anyone made 2 pair with the quad cable? or was that one of the posts that i skipped?


----------



## djcantr

I've been reading these pages for hours. I think I'm ready to order all the items I need and make my own. I decided on the Gepco 61801EZ cable and the Rean (Neutrik) NYS373 ends. What I'm confused on is what size techflex and shrink I'll need to order. It'd be nice to be able to couple all 6 runs of cable into one techflex to run them back to my amp. I've never used or seen techflex before this. What size should I buy to fit all six cables in there? What size should I use just to fit two cables if I decide to do them in pairs? I probably just need to buy 3/8", 3/16" and 1/8" shrink so I have an assortment to do this?

I've kind of hit information overload here. If I have this correct, at the source end I'm going to solder the center conductor to the pin. I'll crimp around the foil shield. At the other end I'll solder the center conductor and then cut back the foil shield and put heat shrink over that area so that when I crimp down it won't touch the shield. Is that correct?


----------



## AccordUno

Okay, what if I need a Y-Cable? how have you addressed that? Running a few amps bridged and would look odd if two amps had different types of rca cables going to it..


----------



## jrobie79

Interested in making my own Y-cables as well, but no idea where to start


----------



## edouble101

AccordUno said:


> Okay, what if I need a Y-Cable? how have you addressed that? Running a few amps bridged and would look odd if two amps had different types of rca cables going to it..





jrobie79 said:


> Interested in making my own Y-cables as well, but no idea where to start


You could use a quad cable at one connector than branch it off to two connectors.

My first DIY cable from this weekend, thanks for the how-to's and help!!!!


----------



## blueatlanta

edouble101 said:


> You could use a quad cable at one connector than branch it off to two connectors.
> 
> My first DIY cable from this weekend, thanks for the how-to's and help!!!!


which boot ends and rca ends are those?

lookin nice btw


----------



## edouble101

blueatlanta said:


> which boot ends and rca ends are those?
> 
> lookin nice btw


I bought them from parts-express, they have a wide variety. If you need exact part number let me know and I will post it later today. The RCA ends are P3, again from parts-express. They are pictured in a previous post. They are nice imo.

Thanks


----------



## edouble101

I am going to be making y-cable within a week or so. I will post pics.


----------



## blueatlanta

edouble101 said:


> I bought them from parts-express, they have a wide variety. If you need exact part number let me know and I will post it later today. The RCA ends are P3, again from parts-express. They are pictured in a previous post. They are nice imo.
> 
> Thanks


a part number would be awesome! the name is fine too though. did you use the canare wire? or the gepco stuff? i wanna use the phoenix gold zpr6 rca ends, but i can only find them for 15 dollars a pair, if i could find them for a better price, itd be on like donkey kong, as i need like 20 more pair.


----------



## edouble101

blueatlanta said:


> a part number would be awesome! the name is fine too though. did you use the canare wire? or the gepco stuff? i wanna use the phoenix gold zpr6 rca ends, but i can only find them for 15 dollars a pair, if i could find them for a better price, itd be on like donkey kong, as i need like 20 more pair.


Part #082-774

I used Gepco 61801EZ


----------



## Diffeomorphism

edouble101 said:


> I am going to be making y-cable within a week or so. I will post pics.


I have to make Y-cables as well. I'm going to attempt using the same cable as my interconnects; mini-RG59 solid core foil and braided shield coax. 

Stripped back:









Test fit:









Tinned connector (braided shield was straightened out and tinned too):









Soldered:









Heat shrink:









Finished so far:









It's not really clear in the last pic, but there is techflex on them.


----------



## Ludemandan

Nice camera work!


----------



## Diffeomorphism

Ludemandan said:


> Nice camera work!


lol, thanks! It was handheld with a relatively slow shutter speed and manually focused. I think the camera does all the work though .


----------



## edouble101

I made some "y-cable". I am taking a two channel output from my processor to a four channel amplifier that I am wiring bridged. 

I used Gepco EZ wire. I soldered the two conductor wire to a four conductor wire.


----------



## Diffeomorphism

^Looks like things got a little ... hot ... there. :biggrinflip: Sorry, lame joke, I know. Did you tin the leads before soldering them together? If not, tinning each one prior to soldering enables you to keep the gun on there for a shorter amount of time and provides a better connection (not as in conductivity, but physically).


----------



## edouble101

Diffeomorphism said:


> ^Looks like things got a little ... hot ... there. :biggrinflip: Sorry, lame joke, I know. Did you tin the leads before soldering them together? If not, tinning each one prior to soldering enables you to keep the gun on there for a shorter amount of time and provides a better connection (not as in conductivity, but physically).


I used the tip of my solder pen to expose the wire so I could solder to it, basic stuff. I did not cut the wire and then solder three ends together. I simply exposed the wire along the length of it then soldered a wire to it. 

Do you have a better method?


----------



## Diffeomorphism

edouble101 said:


> I used the tip of my solder pen to expose the wire so I could solder to it, basic stuff. I did not cut the wire and then solder three ends together. I simply exposed the wire along the length of it then soldered a wire to it.
> 
> Do you have a better method?


I'm afraid I'm not following. Are you meaning that you did not strip the wire prior to soldering? 

Everyone has their own way doing things, the following is what I was taught:

1. Strip the wires you intend to solder the same amount.
2. Tin each wire individually.
3. If soldering to a terminal, tin the connection point as well; not to the point where there is a glob though.
4. Somehow fix the wires so that they are in the arrangement you want without having to hold them.
5. Taking the soldering iron and apply heat to where the wires join together long enough to get the solder on the tinned wires flowing.
6. This may not be necessary depending on application, but I add just a little bit more solder in step 5, but not so much that there is a glob. 

The goal is to use enough solder, but not to the point that it increases the diameter of the combined wires. The less heat you have to apply to make the connection, the better. The reason being the cable housing may melt and flow between the stranded wire (if that's what's being used). If using coax, the stakes are higher as the dielectric insulator may melt. Maybe not where it is visible, but a little further down under the outer jacket and may cause the outer shield to short with the center conductor.


----------



## edouble101

I did not expect this to be difficult to understand. The connection method I choose is called "tap solder". I "tapped" into another wire. Instead of pealing the insulation off the tip of the wire to expose it I used my solder pen to melt the insulation to expose the wire, obviously this is done prior to soldering or tinning. 

This is 22 gauge wire here, very thin stuff. I did not want to take the chance of fraying the wire and making it weak by stripping the insulation with a knife or any other method. T-Rex style strippers may work but I do not own a pair. My method worked great and the RCAs function as they should.


----------



## edouble101

BTW I would never solder coax cable


----------



## Diffeomorphism

edouble101 said:


> I did not expect this to be difficult to understand. The connection method I choose is called "tap solder". I "tapped" into another wire. Instead of pealing the insulation off the tip of the wire to expose it I used my solder pen to melt the insulation to expose the wire, obviously this is done prior to soldering or tinning.
> 
> This is 22 gauge wire here, very thin stuff. I did not want to take the chance of fraying the wire and making it weak by stripping the insulation with a knife or any other method. T-Rex style strippers may work but I do not own a pair. My method worked great and the RCAs function as they should.


Fair 'nuff. I've never seen or heard of that method before; I'll have to look it up.



edouble101 said:


> BTW I would never solder coax cable


Which you're entitled to. Nothing wrong in doing so as long as care is taken not to heat it up to much and the shield is handled properly.


----------



## emperorjj1

I would have never thought of doing a y split like that but thinking about it that might be the best approach


----------



## JWAT15

wow i never thought how easy it would be to make your own rcas.. thanks! very nice tutorial


----------



## chad

FWIW the insulation over the conductors is VERY heat sensitive, so much in fact that it's why I recommend simply SCORING the outer jacket and snapping it as opposed to a conventional strip method, if you so much as NICK that inner insulation it will pull back from even light to moderate heat.


----------



## Streetbeat Customz

Very nice!


----------



## nyyanks1

Anyone know someplace to get short body RCAs like the Streetwire RCAs?
I would like to make a set for my new install (when it's warm again) and I have a feeling I won't have the room in the dash,out of the HU, to use longer body type ends.


----------



## Diffeomorphism

nyyanks1 said:


> Anyone know someplace to get short body RCAs like the Streetwire RCAs?
> I would like to make a set for my new install (when it's warm again) and I have a feeling I won't have the room in the dash,out of the HU, to use longer body type ends.


 Audison Connection has really short connectors, but they weren't cost effective for me. Parts Express has P3 RCA plugs, and they look fairly short.

Made my first y-cable tonight; major pain in the ass.


----------



## certifiedquality

I have access to this cable where i work: BT3002 Coaxial Cable 75ohm

Can this be used to make rca cables?
My concern is that the internal conductor is only 0.31 mmm.
Will this be a problem?


----------



## Ludemandan

certifiedquality said:


> I have access to this cable where i work: BT3002 Coaxial Cable 75ohm
> 
> Can this be used to make rca cables?
> My concern is that the internal conductor is only 0.31 mmm.
> Will this be a problem?


Should be fine, the 75 ohms/1000 ft is what matters. Having a solid conductor would be weird though, you'd basically have to form the cable into place in the car.


----------



## emperorjj1

that would be pretty cool thou. sucks you probably need the flexibility at some point but if you didnt it would look cool if you ever took it out and it was still in shape


----------



## Ludemandan

Imagine installing a head unit with no slack on the RCAs.


----------



## certifiedquality

The cable is actually very flexible since the conductor is very thin.
Here is what it looks like.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

chad said:


> Foil is 100% but not durable, fine in a car though. Braided is designed to flex and hold up to abuse but not 100% coverage.
> 
> Willyou hear a difference? Probably not unless you toss it under a large radio transmitter. Will you notice a difference in your wallet? Yep! A high quality cable with foil shield is 1/3 the price of a high quality cable with braided. (Comparing Gepco 61801EZ to Canare and other star quads.)
> 
> Chad


Chad...

Great points in the thread about building an RCA. With all your information I have one quick question.

Could you list your top three wires to build RCA's. Giving list a good, better and best.


----------



## chad

Depends on the Application


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

chad said:


> Depends on the Application


I am referring to Car Audio Application. If you could share with me a wire that fits the following.

Good
Better
Best

I appreciate it.


----------



## chad

Rating cabling from a single voice (me) as good, better, best is REALLY opening me up to a ****-storm of criticism. I believe the BEST cable is the cable with the highest percentage of shield, the lowest capacitance, the easiest to work with in order to perform a proper and solid termination and, above all, the construction techniques used in termination outside of the flash and bang of techflex.

That being said much of this cable is 20 cents per foot, SURELY meaning that it contains no snake oil whatsoever. This, in the eyes of some, is simply unacceptable and without said snake oil I would be a fool to even recommend an inexpensive cable over a muti-hundred dollar per foot cable that makes music out of baboon farts.


----------



## Golf Echo

I used the Gepco 61801EZ and some Neutrik's to make some Y-cables. Split my front stage door and a-pillar's to the front and rear outputs of a JL Audio XD400/4. Mainly had fun just making the cables and have a bunch left laying around that I may use someday. I really expected to have some problems with the cables but haven't had any so far...


----------



## chad

Golf Echo said:


> I really expected to have some problems with the cables but haven't had any so far...


Why did you expect issues?


----------



## Golf Echo

I mainly expected issues because I'd never tried it before and it seems like anytime I do anything with a soldering iron it goes kinda bad the first time...I think I need a better soldering iron.


----------



## upperguy

Golf Echo said:


> I mainly expected issues because I'd never tried it before and it seems like anytime I do anything with a soldering iron it goes kinda bad the first time...I think I need a better soldering iron.


haha that's my concern too, I know it's probably one of the simplest things you can do with an iron... That being said I'm about as mechanically inclined as a bottle of ketchup(store brand not even Heinz!)

Anyway, I've been trying to find a short connector and came across these: Nakamichi rca 8-pack and wondered if you guys had any thoughts on them? They have are designed for "4-5mm cable" so the opening isn't huge.

My other thought was to pickup a few short pairs of these cheap:







and de-soldering the tips and re-using them. They are cost effective as well and those tips are tiny! I know everyone hates Monster, but these are just the ends and I can deal with that

Also let me just take a moment to thank everyone who made this thread happen. I've been considering making my own cables for a while but don't like to try things without some study


----------



## Lstruck

Not a completed pic, but you get the idea.. 









Red Belden 1505f
Carbon 1/4" Techflex around the individual wires
Carbon 3/8" around the pair
P3 RCA ends.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Lstruck said:


> Not a completed pic, but you get the idea..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red Belden 1505f
> Carbon 1/4" Techflex around the individual wires
> Carbon 3/8" around the pair
> P3 RCA ends.




Each Connector has a positive and a negative wire in it correct? If that is the case, why is the end have a black and a red wring around it. Is that for the use of Left and Right.

Thanks


----------



## Lstruck

Huckleberry Sound said:


> Each Connector has a positive and a negative wire in it correct? If that is the case, why is the end have a black and a red wring around it. Is that for the use of Left and Right.
> 
> Thanks


Yup..


----------



## chad

As much as I hate techflex to hide it.... red wire under carbon techflex is just sex.


----------



## ocblaze

Hey guys I have a few questions to ask the experts on here. First and foremost the rcas will be housed in a false floor in the rear of my car. For this reason I will be using teckflex and would like the cables to look very nice because they will be shown often. Also I want to only do this once and do not want to worry about the upgradability of the system once installed. Without further adieu, my questions are:

1. Aree these Rean NYS352BG ok to use for the rca plugs?
REAN a Brand of Neutrik AG Rean NYS352BG RCA Plug with Gold Contacts & Black Plated Handle RCA Connectors at Markertek.com

2. I have read this thread over a couple times and still can't decide on which cable to use. My two choices are the Gepco 61801EZ cable or the Canare Star Quad 4S6 cable. Is the canare wire really worth the extra money? Basically I need help deciding which cable to use!! 

Gepco Wire: Gepco Gepco 61801EZ Single Pair 22 Gage Analog Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com

Canare Star Quad: Canare Corporation Of America Canare 4S6 Star Quad Speaker Cable Speaker Wire & Cable Bulk at Markertek.com


----------



## upperguy

ocblaze said:


> Hey guys I have a few questions to ask the experts on here. First and foremost the rcas will be housed in a false floor in the rear of my car. For this reason I will be using teckflex and would like the cables to look very nice because they will be shown often. Also I want to only do this once and do not want to worry about the upgradability of the system once installed. Without further adieu, my questions are:
> 
> 1. Aree these Rean NYS352BG ok to use for the rca plugs?
> REAN a Brand of Neutrik AG Rean NYS352BG RCA Plug with Gold Contacts & Black Plated Handle RCA Connectors at Markertek.com
> 
> 2. I have read this thread over a couple times and still can't decide on which cable to use. My two choices are the Gepco 61801EZ cable or the Canare Star Quad 4S6 cable. Is the canare wire really worth the extra money? Basically I need help deciding which cable to use!!
> 
> Gepco Wire: Gepco Gepco 61801EZ Single Pair 22 Gage Analog Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com
> 
> Canare Star Quad: Canare Corporation Of America Canare 4S6 Star Quad Speaker Cable Speaker Wire & Cable Bulk at Markertek.com


Chad has said this about a dozen times already so I'll give his fingers a break. The Canare is designed to be used on a stage and beat up and needs to be beefy to handle the wear and tear. The Gepco is designed to be installed and as such is thinner and better shielded. So not only is the Canare not worth the extra money, but the Gepco will perform better in a car.


As for the RCA connector, as long as it's got an RCA head and can securely hold the signal and drain wires, it will function. For most of the people in this thread, you could go with some penny RCA connectors and they will perform well. I highly doubt you would see any benefit between the one's you listed and the $80 platinum things on PE. So just pick a connector you like the look of and you will do just fine

Cheers!


----------



## ocblaze

Thanks bro for the quick answer!! And sorry for my ignorance but thank for the clarification. Hope to have pics up real soon!!!


----------



## upperguy

Got some cables you aren't using and some free time? Or just looking for some short RCA ends and not happy with what's available? I have always liked the look of some of the market's shorter RCA's and have a ton of shorty cables from when I worked in the business so I decided to see what I could do with them.








RCA's used for this project are the Monster Cable MicroXLN micro connector design and as you can see in the picture, the connector is a hair under 1.5". I was originally put off because inside the cover is a hard white putty, I dug at it with some snips and a razor and wasn't making any progress.








So I figured I wasn't going to use this cable again and it's cheap enough to replace.... lets throw in some heat. Literally 15 seconds later I was staring at your standard soldered connection! 








It doesn't have the strain relief built in, hence the putty to hold everything secure, so if you use a micro connector I would advise you to heatshrink this connection or something similar. 








My iron is coming in(hopefully today!) so when I get it I'll post more pics with the de-soldering and re-soldering of the Belden cable. As for all the people who hate on monster cable for being terrible... well this RCA cable has no shielding in it at all! It's purely a thick rubber sheath and 2 small wires with a slight twist. Maybe Chad can correct me if I'm wrong, but for the most part a connector is a connector. I don't see how putting a more conductive material on the end of copper will improve anything, but I'm no engineer, just someone with too much time on their hands.








Now most importantly, cause you don't want people thinking your amazing new cables are *gasp* monster cable... The logo is just a sticker, which comes off really easily! That being said, the white finish is extremely soft so be careful removing it or using nail polish remover(I haven't tried it but it may damage the finish). Once you get it started it peels right off, then you can use a rag to pull any remaining adhesive.








I hope you guys found this helpful and informative, I've been up all night which is to blame for any grammatical errors or outright lies. Also all pictures were taken with a droid incredible, which is very nice for a camera phone but sub-par for a camera. I think the pics came out pretty good considering, but if you need high res pictures feel free to purchase both the Monster cable and a nice camera and take them. Oh, I also misplaced my caliper, but the opening looks to be a hair under 1/4" ID which would make it approx 6mm, which means it should support most cable.

Cheers!


----------



## veritasz34

I made my own cables for my lumina install and did alot of trial and error research.. I finally found a wire that I liked..I found that pure unplated copper had the best sound to my ears.. I used tinned copper that was finely stranded and it sounded horrible to me but then again it may have been my poor skills too. My end design was similar to the design used by kimber cable (Which I used the heros afterwards in another install) and personally I still like them today..I had a few extra sets I gave out for people to test and they refused to give them backkGuess I was on to something..Anyway great post and great info..


----------



## chad

here comes a can of worms.....


----------



## Wesayso

Edited my post as I didn't want to clutter this good informative thread.
Decided to make a seperate post for my question.


----------



## Niebur3

Subscribe


----------



## GS3

upperguy said:


> Chad has said this about a dozen times already so I'll give his fingers a break. The Canare is designed to be used on a stage and beat up and needs to be beefy to handle the wear and tear. The Gepco is designed to be installed and as such is thinner and better shielded. So not only is the Canare not worth the extra money, but the Gepco will perform better in a car.
> 
> 
> As for the RCA connector, as long as it's got an RCA head and can securely hold the signal and drain wires, it will function. For most of the people in this thread, you could go with some penny RCA connectors and they will perform well. I highly doubt you would see any benefit between the one's you listed and the $80 platinum things on PE. So just pick a connector you like the look of and you will do just fine
> 
> Cheers!


anyone ever tried using good speaker wires to make rca cables?

just curious, and wonder how that turned out.


----------



## Horsemanwill

100FT CANARE L-4E6S STARQUAD MIC BULK CABLE 21G WHITE | eBay

so would this make for a good cable to use for rca's in a car?


----------



## upperguy

GS3 said:


> anyone ever tried using good speaker wires to make rca cables?
> 
> just curious, and wonder how that turned out.


In theory, you can use any 2 connector wire to make an RCA. That being said, you wouldn't see any benefit at all using speaker wire and it would be nearly impossible to solder on. The Gepco 61801ez that I used is 22ga wire just to give you an idea and I had to make sure I had a tight flat connection and no solder peaks to get the RCA cover back on.

Contrary to everything we've been fed by the big companies, bigger wire isn't always better. You're transferring signal here, not power output so the only thing a heavier gauge wire gives you is more bulk. In addition to that, I don't think speaker wire gives any shielding against interference so you'd probably have to deal with that as well.



Horsemanwill said:


> 100FT CANARE L-4E6S STARQUAD MIC BULK CABLE 21G WHITE | eBay
> 
> so would this make for a good cable to use for rca's in a car?


I know it's a big thread, but this question has been answered literally 19 times.


----------



## Richard

This is Canare's highest quality microphone cable and an audiophile "secret" for interconnects. Since it's widely used in recording studios I'm confident it will meet your needs in an automobile. Neutrik connectors and you're done.
Richard


----------



## Horsemanwill

i know reading gets the best of me i feel like someone asking a ms8 question lol


----------



## upperguy

Horsemanwill said:


> i know reading gets the best of me i feel like someone asking a ms8 question lol


long story short, it's good cable for a mic, which will be twisted and moved and abused and run over by heavy carts. For an install, all of those good aspects are lost as it will only be subject to vibration. The Gepco I mentioned is generally used as the standard for custom RCAs, it's what Chad uses and he's the boss when it comes to this stuff, so it was more than enough for my install. It's inexpensive, has proper shielding, very easy to work with and comes in a ton of colors to pick from.

Chad mentioned that most local install shops should carry it but I just ordered from Redco.com and it's about $20 shipped for 100' of the cable. They also have Gepco D61801ezgf which is the same stuff except a pair, little more than double the price though. a few posts back I posted a detailed write up on how to build them as well.


----------



## Horsemanwill

Redco Audio - Custom Audio Cables - Recording Studio Supplies - Custom A/V Panels - Gepco D61801EZGF


this the doubled up one u was talkin about?


----------



## chad

Richard said:


> This is Canare's highest quality microphone cable and an audiophile "secret" for interconnects. Since it's widely used in recording studios I'm confident it will meet your needs in an automobile. Neutrik connectors and you're done.
> Richard


Used just as mic cables to the multicore. Racks are not wired with star quad, trust me.

that being said, the Gepco still had "better" electrical properties by far.. like nearly half the capacitance and a higher percentage of shielding..


----------



## whitedragon551

Im getting ready to build my own RCA's before winter gets here. 

I went with some Nakimichi ends and the Star Canare quad cable. I need a set of 4 channels and a set of 2 channels. My RCA ends are screw type rather than solder. How would I secure that using the ground screw or is that only necessary for a balanced connection?


----------



## chad

whitedragon551 said:


> * Star Canare quad cable.* .
> *
> My RCA ends are screw type rather than solder. *


No doubt, I just LOL'd, 

2 words.... 

1) you 
2) can't

Reliably.


----------



## whitedragon551

chad said:


> No doubt, I just LOL'd,
> 
> 2 words....
> 
> 1) you
> 2) can't
> 
> Reliably.


I figured as much. I was racking my brain trying to figure this out. Looks like I bought the wrong RCA ends. Anyways perhaps Im missing something. Here are the ends I have:

14 PCS 24K NAKAMICHI RCA Jack Plug Locking Connector 10mm - - 0816


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> No doubt, I just LOL'd,
> 
> 2 words....
> 
> 1) you
> 2) can't
> 
> Reliably.


aww. lol those are probably the only connectors i could use


----------



## chad

you kinda have had to work with star quad to know what I'm talking about. 

It's a PITA all around, I have NO IDEA why people think that a stage microphone cable, designed to go thru hell and back is the thing for a permanent install.


----------



## emperorjj1

ya never seen that i have now unsued gepco but i did a horrible solder job. idk what the prob is but over time just didnt work. just have reg premade rcas now


----------



## whitedragon551

chad said:


> you kinda have had to work with star quad to know what I'm talking about.
> 
> It's a PITA all around, I have NO IDEA why people think that a stage microphone cable, designed to go thru hell and back is the thing for a permanent install.


Got the cable today. Obviously 1 white and 1 blue per tip. Cant I solder the ground wire to the gold outer piece? Serves the same concept as the solder type RCA ends from what Ive seen.


----------



## whitedragon551

From what Im reading the Canare Star Quad isnt suitable for car applications. Would Cat 5 or Cat 6 twisted pair work?


----------



## chad

It's suitable, just a PITA... cat 5 is not shielded....


----------



## whitedragon551

chad said:


> It's suitable, just a PITA... cat 5 is not shielded....


What makes using Cat6 a PITA?


----------



## chad

I meant that starquad is a PITA, but since you asked what would make cat 6 a PITA..... wrapping a shield around it.....


----------



## whitedragon551

chad said:


> I meant that starquad is a PITA, but since you asked what would make cat 6 a PITA..... wrapping a shield around it.....


I figured it was since you said Cat 5 wasnt.


----------



## chad

neither is unless specified.. I actually have shielded gel mpregnated cat 6 here.. 

Compare the Cat5e vs Cat6 Cabling Standard


----------



## whitedragon551

chad said:


> neither is unless specified.. I actually have shielded gel mpregnated cat 6 here..
> 
> Compare the Cat5e vs Cat6 Cabling Standard


So a CAT6 STP is perfect for this?


----------



## chad

As long as you understand that crosstalk spec are only specd for balanced... How it works in a network config....


----------



## mediumroast

Anyone know where I can find all plastic RCA connectors? 

I'm trying to rig an interconnect as close as possible to bare wire point to point contact and need a plastic or rubber shell just to hold the bare wire ends into the rca input.

I've been using magnet wires which brings out an amazing level of detail and want to try having the wires contact directly instead of going through a rca plug first. I've slowly progressed from 99 cent RCA plugs > monster > Neutrik > Eichmann copper bullets. Each upgrade made the sound somewhat cleaner and I was surprised at how much better the Eichmann's were (maybe the copper core was key?) Anyhow my reasoning is I'm using 28 gauge magnet wire and these plugs are so massive compared to the minimal amount of copper in the magnet wires that it probably effects the sound a whole lot.

====

btw, I also tried the magnet wires for speaker cable and it's awesome. First try with a single 28 Ga run had seriously reduced the speakers output. trying it running 2 wires each was less of a reduction and 4 wires of 28 gauge I did not notice any output level reduction. Again the music details were much improved over what I previously had > 14 GA OFC CL3 install grade > 14 GA OFC clear monster cable > 16 GA lamp cord wire from home depot.


----------



## chad

wow.


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Normally i wouldnt post on threads like this...............but.......................

mediumroast, while your throwing your money away, want to throw me some so I can finish my build?


----------



## mediumroast

I was a non-believer of good RCA cables before as I have used knuconceptz and streetwires but didn't hear any difference than the cheaper canaire cable/neutrik connectors I made. As I slowly upgrade every component in the audio chain (starting from battery and power cables) I am finally able to hear the difference in RCA interconnects and it is a huge difference.

I was also impressed when switching from the same 14 gauge size monster speaker cable to 14 gauge install cable I ordered from Guitar center (the CL3 stuff used for in-wall installs.) they are the same gauge except monster has finer strands so I didn't understand why the install grade cables sounded so much better (cleaner, tighter, imaged better, everything, also looked pro) until I tried magnet wires which have almost no insulation (just an enamel coating.)


----------



## TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

Of course you believe it now, you have to to justify spending rediculous amounts of money on them.


----------



## mediumroast

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL - lol. $11.90 for 1000 feet of magnet wire. I think I can afford that dent in the wallet. If you are willing to try these interconnects I will make it for you for free. Just write up your thoughts after trying it.

email me what length interconnects you need. trungdo at gmail.com


----------



## bigdexxx

I just read all 30 pages off and on the past couple days and I will be making my own RCA cables when the time comes


----------



## 91dime

I'm starting on my rcas, and have a few questions. I'm going to use a dsp, and I know your supposed to ground the shield on the source end. So I will ground the shield at the head unit, but should I ground each shield at the cable going out of the source end to the amp? 

Also, if I want to make a RCA splitter, I can just double up the wires on one end and split them on the other right?


----------



## NaamanF

91dime said:


> I'm starting on my rcas, and have a few questions. I'm going to use a dsp, and I know your supposed to ground the shield on the source end. So I will ground the shield at the head unit, but should I ground each shield at the cable going out of the source end to the amp?
> 
> Also, if I want to make a RCA splitter, I can just double up the wires on one end and split them on the other right?


Yes and yes


----------



## chad

NaamanF said:


> Yes and yes


yup, every-time there is a new source you start a new screen.


----------



## 91dime

Ok sounds good! Thanks for the help. 

Heres some pics of what I have. 




























What kind of solder do you recommend?


----------



## chad

something that melts with a soldering iron and is easy to work with. I prefer really thin Kester 44 if it's not a beauty show.


----------



## 91dime

chad said:


> something that melts with a soldering iron


lol I should be able to scrounge up something that's able to do that. I need to get a smaller tip for my soldering iron. Hopefully I can get one done tomorrow.


----------



## rex450se

Great write up. I may have to try this.

Victor


----------



## upperguy

chad said:


> Something smart.


Hey Chad, I totally understand why you're PMs are locked down but I was wondering if you could offer some advice for another wiring project I'm working on.

I've got a nice set of in-ear monitors and I can't stand the cables that come with them(detachable). They have a bit of a memory and the insulation is a bit stiff/shiny/plasticy for my taste. I tracked down all the connectors I'm going to use but I'm having trouble with the wire.

I was looking for a 28awg stranded copper silicon insulated and it's surprisingly difficult to track down. I'd also like to use something like a neoprene sponge tube or something similar, as opposed to a multi-filiment nylon or the like. If you could offer any input or suggestions on this I'd greatly appreciate your expertise.

If you have a moment, you can contact me directly at [email protected]. I absolutely understand if you don't want to get involved. Thanks for everything.


----------



## chad

that's going to be a wild find... I'll look around a bit, never had to deal with that application 

It needs to be resistant to the funk our bodies put off, especially if hte cable wraps around the back of the ear.


----------



## leepersc

A little off of the current topic here, but I found a reasonably priced (budget) source for RCA connectors. These may not be equivalent to some folks taste in this post, but fits my application nicely!

Sold by SURE ELECTRONICS.NET 

$1.99 for 10 RCA's. Shipping was a little steep though, was $13.00 for me.

10pcs Gold RCA Plug Audio Video Locking Cable Connector

10pcs Gold RCA Plug Audio Video Locking Cable Connector_Accessories_Audio Amplifier and other Audio Boards_Audio_Sure Electronics' Webstore

Just a little food for thought. 

-Scott


----------



## eXcelon969

when using an intermediate processor between the HU and amps, do you still connect the shield at the processor end of the rca going form processor to amp or only on the source end of the HU to processor RCA?

thanks


----------



## chad

eXcelon969 said:


> when using an intermediate processor between the HU and amps, do you still connect the shield at the processor end of the rca going form processor to amp or only on the source end of the HU to processor RCA?
> 
> thanks


connect at headunit open at processor input. Connect at processor output, open at amplifier.


----------



## eXcelon969

thanks


----------



## bigbubba

Just reading this thread makes me want to try and make a set of RCA's.


----------



## emperorjj1

its harder then it looks


----------



## chad

Nah, just take your time, you will get good at it.


----------



## emperorjj1

yup but still its harder then it looks. but i have **** soldering skills so that doesnt help. def a fun experiance thou i wouldnt have not tried it had i had the chance


----------



## chad

having proper tools helps


----------



## adrenalinejunkie

What's the value of a pair like these?


----------



## mrvrsick

I've been reading this whole thread for days, and came to the conclusion that I'll make some cables soon.

Decided on gepco, from Redco or directly from Gepco if they still do that.
These connectors, or the Rean from PE
14 AWG wire from monoprice

If anyone has some cable, connectors, or wire that they can sell me, I'm all for it!


----------



## emperorjj1

lol i still have 20 ft in my car but its multiple runs in one


----------



## mrvrsick

Decision time: anyone know of a current deal on rca's with an opening that will compliment gepco cable?


----------



## captainobvious

They sell these at Monoprice.com and they are very nice heavy duty pieces. I have used them in their XLR>RCA cables and ordered them for the cables I'll be making as well. 
RCA ends


----------



## pocket5s

Those look nice. I _really_ don't like the ones I have now. way too tight of a fit mostly.


----------



## DAT

How many guys connect the shiled at all. or just one side and not the other...?

I've done it several ways, usually on the output of the HU and not on the other end to the DSP or AMP.


----------



## emperorjj1

mine that i ended up abandoning have the shield connected at the HU and not in the rear


----------



## chad

DAT said:


> How many guys connect the shiled at all. or just one side and not the other...?
> 
> I've done it several ways, usually on the output of the HU and not on the other end to the DSP or AMP.


Shield at the sending end. BUT I use STP so the "black wire" is connected at both ends.


----------



## chad

emperorjj1 said:


> mine that i ended up abandoning.....


Save them for a rainy day project


----------



## emperorjj1

lol they are still ran thru the car just my soldering skills are subpar


----------



## alachua

chad said:


> Shield at the sending end. BUT I use STP so the "black wire" is connected at both ends.


What is STP?


----------



## whitedragon551

alachua said:


> What is STP?


Single twisted pair.


----------



## MarkG

alachua said:


> What is STP?


Shielded Twisted Pair


----------



## DAT

Does everyone use Silver Solder? I was told that it is not really needed, most guys tell me just use a 60/40 Rosin Core would be ok to use...


----------



## emperorjj1

i didnt. then again mine failed so....


----------



## Genxx

DAT said:


> Does everyone use Silver Solder? I was told that it is not really needed, most guys tell me just use a 60/40 Rosin Core would be ok to use...



That is how I have done the three sets I have made over the years and they are all still working great.


----------



## Darth SQ

Subscribed.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR


----------



## alachua

I may have asked this a few pages back, but I didn't see any responses. 

Has anyone found a good source for quality short RCA ends? Upperguy used Monster ones that he was able to take off some cables he found on clearance, but they don't seem to be available any longer. The most suitable cheap, quality short connector I can find is the Rean NYS352, available in Black or Silver (link). These are about a quarter of an inch longer than the monster ones. The P3 ones linked from parts express are more or less the same length (about .07") as the Rean, but 2.5x the price.


----------



## lostthumb

alachua said:


> I may have asked this a few pages back, but I didn't see any responses.
> 
> Has anyone found a good source for quality short RCA ends? Upperguy used Monster ones that he was able to take off some cables he found on clearance, but they don't seem to be available any longer. The most suitable cheap, quality short connector I can find is the Rean NYS352, available in Black or Silver (link). These are about a quarter of an inch longer than the monster ones. The P3 ones linked from parts express are more or less the same length (about .07") as the Rean, but 2.5x the price.


I have used some Switchcraft 3502. They are the short body version. Pretty nice connectors. Easy to work with and feel very nice. The ID for the wire pass thru is a bit small though.


----------



## lostthumb

lostthumb said:


> I have used some Switchcraft 3502. They are the short body version. Pretty nice connectors. Easy to work with and feel very nice. The ID for the wire pass thru is a bit small though.


You can find them here. 
Switchcraft Corporation Switchcraft Cable End RCA (Phono) Connectors RCA Connectors at Markertek.com


----------



## chad

lostthumb said:


> I have used some Switchcraft 3502. They are the short body version. Pretty nice connectors. Easy to work with and feel very nice. The ID for the wire pass thru is a bit small though.


not all of us build our signal cables out of twisted 4 Ga.

I find it to be a bit too big


----------



## chad

lostthumb said:


> I have used some Switchcraft 3502. They are the short body version. Pretty nice connectors. Easy to work with and feel very nice. The ID for the wire pass thru is a bit small though.


not all of us build our signal cables out of twisted 4 Ga.

I find it to be a bit too big 

ONE thing to remember about the 3502, twist while removing.. they fit tight and WILL pull the shield of the female end off your gear if you are a ramrod.


----------



## emperorjj1

chad said:


> not all of us build our signal cables out of twisted 4 Ga.
> 
> I find it to be a bit too big


i actually prefer 1/0 for my rca connections. twisting it is the hard part thou:mean:


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## mitchjr

Subscribed


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## MinnesotaStateUniversity

I regret making my own RCA cables. It's turning out to be more expensive lol


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## Dillyyo

Chad/other-

From this post I have gathered the following that could apply to my install:

-Gepco61801EZ is a very good wire to used in unbalanced runs through the car

-Newtrik NYS373 is a very good, secure RCA end link to use on the Gepco

-For unbalanced runs from HU to DSP/Amp, Initial Source = Shield and Black together; End Input = Floating shield and black connected.



Now for my question:

1. Can the same Gepco be used for a balanced line transmission fron the HU to the DSP/Amp? It seems you can, but just want to confirm you said such. 

2. Since I would be tapping into my OEM signal wire in the trunk and not by the HU, do I just let the shielding float on both ends? My Z8 does accept differential balanced signals and I assume that means I can just solder the + and - signal lines and solder them right to the RCA connectors, completely disregarding any of the shielding that is on the Gepco wiring and also the shielding that is wrapped around the signal wires from the OEM wiring harness (this shielding loops back around and feeds back into the main wiring harness, which I assume is connected at the HU on the source end and probably floating on end where they turn back into the harness. 

3. Since I'm pretty sure the outputs of the Z8 will not be differentially balanced signals, I can then make RCA interconnects from my Z8 to my Zapco 650's (don't accept balanced inputs on RCAs) that are made from the Gepco wire, with shield and black together at the source (Z8) and floating shield at the amps. Correct thinking here? 


Thanks


----------



## chad

1 absolutely.
2, still tie the screen to ground at the source. It will help attenuate induced noise even though you have a higher CMRR 

3. you are gonna have to helpa brotha out on what a Z8 is. To me.. in the sticks it's a letter and a number. You REALLY need to hammer down what the output of whatever you are tapping into consists of.. Hell on some cars it's not even volume controlled and the volume control happens at the amp via the car's data bus.

Note: The Neutrik NYS373 is a deep connector, check clearances.


----------



## Sonus

I guess he means the Zapco DSP-Z8 processor.

I got a response from Zapco on the exact same question, I just asked John from Zapco if it'd be okay to quote him here or if he'd want to replay himself.


----------



## cyrusthevirus23

looks very easy to follow the steps thanks for the small write up


----------



## Dillyyo

chad said:


> 1 absolutely.
> 2, still tie the screen to ground at the source. It will help attenuate induced noise even though you have a higher CMRR
> 
> 3. you are gonna have to helpa brotha out on what a Z8 is. To me.. in the sticks it's a letter and a number. You REALLY need to hammer down what the output of whatever you are tapping into consists of.. Hell on some cars it's not even volume controlled and the volume control happens at the amp via the car's data bus.
> 
> Note: The Neutrik NYS373 is a deep connector, check clearances.


1. Thanks for the confirmation.

2. So, if I understand you correctly, when I splice in the RCAs into my HU signal line, I can either just solder the + and - right to the RCA or make an open ended RCA cable and solder + and - to the black and white wires, but also have some screen to be able to ground at the proposed HU. My issue with the last scenario is that I don't have access to the HU itself, but rather only the shielding screen that is present in the OEM wiring harness (the one that seems to be wrapped around the + and - signal wiring to a certain point, but that tends to get looped back into the cars wiring harness and disappears). Is that OEM screen sufficient to use as a tapping point? How do I attach the Gepco screen to the OEM screen if the Gepco;s shield is foil? If I went with the first option and only soldered in RCAs (no Gepco wiring) with no screen to attach, do I induce problems from the beginning or is it just a likely hood of more induced noise? 

3. The Z8 is Zapco's 8 channel DSP. I use to have a DSP 6 in there and had no issues since I went the Symblink route and had no issues matching up wiring, but this whole screen thing is throwing me off. The source signal is pretty damn flat and all processing is done in the OEM Bose amps. I am not worried about anything else other than how to properly splice in RCAs into the signal path to be able to feed the DSP Z8, which accepts "balanced" inputs. I'm likely making this harder than it really is 

Sorry about the lack of clarity from me.


----------



## chad

Yeah, use the OEM screen, it's evidently working now 

I'm still very curious as to what he output of the OEM headunit is before we blow something up. Sounds balanced but it never hurts to be sure.


----------



## Dillyyo

Sonus said:


> I guess he means the Zapco DSP-Z8 processor.
> 
> I got a response from Zapco on the exact same question, I just asked John from Zapco if it'd be okay to quote him here or if he'd want to replay himself.


I talked to John too and he stated that I should just be able to solder in the + and - to the RCAs and plug into the Z8 with no issues. My concern lies in the fact that if I make a set of cables, I will inevitably have screening/shielding on the RCAs and I don't know if that still needs to be floating on both end of the cable, Float on just one end and connect screening/shielding to existing OEM screening, etc. I just don't want to be fighting noise issues that could be caused by my improper setup. 

I'm sure you could state what was specifically told to you as it's not like proprietary information or something.


----------



## chad

if it's balanced you HAVE to float the comesouta or it will drop the inverting signal to ground, possibly damaging the sending device.


----------



## Dillyyo

chad said:


> if it's balanced you HAVE to float the comesouta or it will drop the inverting signal to ground, possibly damaging the sending device.


I have no idea what in the hell " the comesouta" is, but I assume it's a typo  So, if I have to float on the receiving end (DSP Z8) then wouldn't it be possible to just splice in a 2ft piece of the Gepco wire (Bkl to -; Red to +) and then just solder red to + and Blk to neg of the RCA, while just ensuring that the foil does not come into contact with the RCA outer ring? This seems that it would only mean that the spliced in extension just wouldn't have any effective viable shielding done by the foil, correct?


----------



## Sonus

Dillyyo said:


> I talked to John too and he stated that I should just be able to solder in the + and - to the RCAs and plug into the Z8 with no issues. My concern lies in the fact that if I make a set of cables, I will inevitably have screening/shielding on the RCAs and I don't know if that still needs to be floating on both end of the cable, Float on just one end and connect screening/shielding to existing OEM screening, etc. I just don't want to be fighting noise issues that could be caused by my improper setup.
> 
> I'm sure you could state what was specifically told to you as it's not like proprietary information or something.



For multi channel he suggested using CAT6 cable thightly twisted.

As multiple runs of stereo might induce ground loops according to him.

Also any screen he suggested to attach to the sending unit *chassis* for ground as the cap of the RCA isn't ground but the negative signal part.

I do believe all Zapco amps/prducts accept balanced differential signal inputs

Based upon this I bought the Cordial CMG cables seen in my install thread.

What car do you have?


----------



## chad

Dillyyo said:


> I have no idea what in the hell " the comesouta" is, but I assume it's a typo



sound-it-out.



Dillyyo said:


> So, if I have to float on the receiving end (DSP Z8) then wouldn't it be possible to just splice in a 2ft piece of the Gepco wire (Bkl to -; Red to +) and then just solder red to + and Blk to neg of the RCA, while just ensuring that the foil does not come into contact with the RCA outer ring? This seems that it would only mean that the spliced in extension just wouldn't have any effective viable shielding done by the foil, correct?


Red and black at the amplifier, tie the shield a the sending end to the screen. the factory screen will work as mentioned before.


----------



## Dillyyo

Sonus said:


> For multi channel he suggested using CAT6 cable thightly twisted.
> 
> As multiple runs of stereo might induce ground loops according to him.
> 
> Also any screen he suggested to attach to the sending unit *chassis* for ground as the cap of the RCA isn't ground but the negative signal part.
> 
> I do believe all Zapco amps/prducts accept balanced differential signal inputs
> 
> Based upon this I bought the Cordial CMG cables seen in my install thread.
> 
> What car do you have?



2010 G37 Bose premium system. I have a Zapco AG650.6 and that does not accept differential signals through the RCA. That was designed by Zeff and the Reference i have was not, so I am not sure if the Ref 650 does take differential through the RCA or not.


----------



## Dillyyo

chad said:


> Dillyyo said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea what in the hell " the comesouta" is, but I assume it's a typo
> 
> 
> sound-it-out.
> 
> 
> 
> Red and black at the amplifier, tie the shield a the sending end to the screen. the factory screen will work as mentioned before.
> 
> 
> 
> Got it, thanks!
Click to expand...


----------



## Jfreak

So I'm looking at making RCAs with mogami mic cable. I've read through this thread and found some good ends, but want opinions between these 3 different ones 

Switchcraft Corporation Switchcraft RCA Male (W/Large Hole) RCA Connectors at Markertek.com

REAN a Brand of Neutrik AG Rean NYS373 RCA Plugs with Gold Contacts RCA Connectors at Markertek.com

Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik NF2C-B2-POS ProFi RCA Plugs - Pair Marked Red & Black RCA Connectors at Markertek.com


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Jfreak said:


> So I'm looking at making RCAs with mogami mic cable. I've read through this thread and found some good ends, but want opinions between these 3 different ones
> 
> Switchcraft Corporation Switchcraft RCA Male (W/Large Hole) RCA Connectors at Markertek.com
> 
> REAN a Brand of Neutrik AG Rean NYS373 RCA Plugs with Gold Contacts RCA Connectors at Markertek.com
> 
> Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik NF2C-B2-POS ProFi RCA Plugs - Pair Marked Red & Black RCA Connectors at Markertek.com



Greetings.... This is a great thread to learn how to. It was a great lesson and it taught me well.

How many of these are you looking at getting and how much mic cable are you looking for?


----------



## Jfreak

I'm gonna be getting about 50-75ft of cable and 20 ends probably. I'm going to run individual channels so that's why I'm getting so much cable.


----------



## Huckleberry Sound

Jfreak said:


> I'm gonna be getting about 50-75ft of cable and 20 ends probably. I'm going to run individual channels so that's why I'm getting so much cable.


check your messages....


----------



## Jfreak

How do you guys make 2ch cables? Individual cables wrapped in tech flex together?


----------



## trevordj

You could do individual 1 pair cable or you can use this stuff: 

Gepco Gepco GA72402GFC Gep-Flex Multipair 24 AWG Mic or Line Level Balanced 2-Pair Analog Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com

They make cable with up to 32 *pair* per cable. You could run all of your RCAs for that 8 way front stage you have been lusting after . 

Markertek - Search


----------



## chad

My 6 channel cables are just 6 1 channel cables.... And some zip ties.


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## chad

trevordj said:


> You could do individual 1 pair cable or you can use this stuff:
> 
> Gepco Gepco GA72402GFC Gep-Flex Multipair 24 AWG Mic or Line Level Balanced 2-Pair Analog Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com
> 
> They make cable with up to 32 *pair* per cable. You could run all of your RCAs for that 8 way front stage you have been lusting after .
> 
> Markertek - Search


I have the 26 pair.. the jacket feels so cool. Heavy as hell but wraps great.


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## trevordj

On a different topic, for my most recent project I will be using old faithful Gepco 61801EZ cable and these RCA connectors from monoprice: 

For only $1.31 each when QTY 50+ purchased - Premium RCA Plug

They are REALLY nice for the price, especially if you take advantage of the quantity discount they offer. I ordered 20, at this price they are up there in value with the Rean 373s that a lot of people like. In reality, I think they are higher value because of their metalstrain relief, but that's a personal preference.


----------



## trevordj

chad said:


> My 6 channel cables are just 6 1 channel cables.... And some zip ties.


That's what I do too. The larger multi channel cables are just too bulky for the car. It would be tough to get them under carpet nicely. With individual cables you can spread out the mass a bit easier.


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## trevordj

chad said:


> I have the 26 pair.. the jacket feels so cool. Heavy as hell but wraps great.


What do you use that for? I have throught about using some of that for my home audio gear but with multiple sources in different physical locations would mean I would be stripping holes in the jacket at various intervals to all my gear. In the end I just did 1 pair per cable. Two pair per cable would be cool though, get left and right in one cable would clean things up a bit. I might have to try it.


----------



## chad

trevordj said:


> What do you use that for? I have throught about using some of that for my home audio gear but with multiple sources in different physical locations would mean I would be stripping holes in the jacket at various intervals to all my gear. In the end I just did 1 pair per cable. Two pair per cable would be cool though, get left and right in one cable would clean things up a bit. I might have to try it.


Send/return snake for my FOH rack....


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## Schizm

chad said:


> Send/return snake for my FOH rack....


That's beautiful!


----------



## Jfreak

trevordj said:


> You could do individual 1 pair cable or you can use this stuff:
> 
> Gepco Gepco GA72402GFC Gep-Flex Multipair 24 AWG Mic or Line Level Balanced 2-Pair Analog Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com
> 
> They make cable with up to 32 *pair* per cable. You could run all of your RCAs for that 8 way front stage you have been lusting after .
> 
> Markertek - Search


I'm running individual channels of mogami 2534 for my system, but I'm making cables for a friend and he wants 2ch for space reasons. 

On that gepco wire do I connect the drain at both ends?


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## trevordj

chad said:


> Send/return snake for my FOH rack....


That's pretty badass right there.


----------



## trevordj

Jfreak said:


> I'm running individual channels of mogami 2534 for my system, but I'm making cables for a friend and he wants 2ch for space reasons.
> 
> On that gepco wire do I connect the drain at both ends?


If you are running balanced then yes (chances are that you are not if it is in a car). Otherwise, just tie the sleeve to ground at the source end on one of the channels and leave it unhooked at the amplifier end.


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## Jfreak

K, could I leave both ends disconnected? He's going from a panny bottle head to a zapco dsp to the amps.


----------



## trevordj

Jfreak said:


> K, could I leave both ends disconnected? He's going from a panny bottle head to a zapco dsp to the amps.


Ya, you can leave both ends disconnected.


----------



## Jfreak

So my plan, drain connected at HU side, not at dsp input side. Drain connected to the dsp output side, not at amp side. Correct?

Sorry for the noob questions, first time making rcas.


----------



## trevordj

That sounds right.


----------



## bbfoto

chad said:


> I have the 26 pair.. the jacket feels so cool. Heavy as hell but wraps great.


Prosound Nerd alert!  You wrap over/under?

Seeing your FOH rack, I finally realize what it is you do, or at least some of what you do, haha. Nice.


----------



## chad

LOL both






Been out of live sound for a while, still have all my **** though.. Work has been forcing me into another direction other than audio but I'm resistant


----------



## trevordj

chad said:


> LOL both


Well, I learned something today, that's awesome


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## emperorjj1

damn its pretty sad i forgot that. i wanna say thats how i was taught to roll cable because i remember having to "twist" the wire with ur other hand but its been so long i have no idea


----------



## chad

You don't want to lay an actual twist in the wire, you should be able to hold one end and toss the wire where it should go and it will lay flat... Presumably the female end so you can toss it at the snake.


----------



## Deadpool_25

EDIT: Okay so I can grab a few items from Redco and get to soldering, I guess.

Gepco 61801 EZ Cable
Neutrik NYS 352G Connectors
1/8" Techflex
Heatshrink (what size?)

Anything else?

And, very importantly, I need a few Y cables. What's different about making those? I'm just digging into this thread so please forgive me if this has been answered.


----------



## Lateralis

Deadpool_25 said:


> EDIT: Okay so I can grab a few items from Redco and get to soldering, I guess.
> 
> Gepco 61801 EZ Cable
> Neutrik NYS 352G Connectors
> 1/8" Techflex
> Heatshrink (what size?)
> 
> Anything else?
> 
> And, very importantly, I need a few Y cables. What's different about making those? I'm just digging into this thread so please forgive me if this has been answered.


You are probably going to want to pick up the Y-Pants boot covers. Y-splitter is straight forward: Drain wires to drain wires, Black wires to black wires, and red wires to red wires.... Just make sure that you insulate each set of solder conections so that they don't touch. Slip on you Y-pants and you're ready to solder the lines on to some rca's.


----------



## Deadpool_25

Lateralis said:


> You are probably going to want to pick up the Y-Pants boot covers. Y-splitter is straight forward: Drain wires to drain wires, Black wires to black wires, and red wires to red wires.... Just make sure that you insulate each set of solder conections so that they don't touch. Slip on you Y-pants and you're ready to solder the lines on to some rca's.


Sounds good. I'll grab some of those. Thanks.


----------



## EditTim

I want to make:

Stereo mini plug (male 3.5mm)------->stereo RCAs

So, with this stereo mini plug connector, what cable would be good to use to go to (2) Rean(Neutrik) NYS373 connectors?

I'm using Gepco EZ wire for the rest of my interconnects.

Double up on the EZ cable? Star quad cable? Something else? What makes the most sense?




EDIT: This Gepco cable?


----------



## vwdave

Sorry to bring this back up but I wanted to add my contributions. For strain relief I used pharmed tubing. Put heat shrink over that, soldered on my plugs, heat shrink again, then screwed on the ends.










































Not done yet but it will be a 6 channel cable when done. Without the pharmed tubing the wires were too thin to use the set screw and it didn't feel right. I lucked out that the tubing that I had for work was the right size internally and externally for my application.


----------



## Jaloosk

Thanks for bumping this Dave...I forgot to add the ones I made using this tutorial too:







I made one, but made a couple of noob mistakes, so then I made two more. Tested them on my home system and they work great, plus I love the way they look.


----------



## vwdave

Yours look great. I wish I had a home system to test mine on but I gave away my home theatre to my brother in law. Best gaming surround sound system ever now.


----------



## leepersc

This may seem like a really dumb question, but can I use Stinger 5 conductor Speedwire to make my RCA's? I know there is really zero shielding but would it work? I already got some Gepco 61801EZ wire for my RCA's but I got an awesome deal on 100' of the Speedwire ($19.99 a roll). I'm just curious. Thanks all!!


----------



## emperorjj1

you could use it yes, will i sound ok? who knows


----------



## leepersc

I'm kinda looking for someone whom has experience using this type of wire as an RCA cable.


----------



## Onyx1136

leepersc said:


> This may seem like a really dumb question, but can I use Stinger 5 conductor Speedwire to make my RCA's? I know there is really zero shielding but would it work? I already got some Gepco 61801EZ wire for my RCA's but I got an awesome deal on 100' of the Speedwire ($19.99 a roll). I'm just curious. Thanks all!!


You can use it, but it's not an ideal solution. Speed wire is just a bunch of 18g remote wire bundled together in a common jacket. There's no outer braided conductor to function as a shield for noise rejection, so the potential for induced noise is much higher. 

This falls in the category of something you can do, but probably shouldn't.


----------



## leepersc

Thank you, Onyx!! I was thinking the same but was hopeful. I'll stick to the Gepco & Canare wire instead.


----------



## emperorjj1

ouch that hurts apparently my opinion isnt educated. good thing i quit my day job (working at a shop)


----------



## Jheitt142

emperorjj1 said:


> ouch that hurts apparently my opinion isnt educated. good thing i quit my day job (working at a shop)


You and onyx said the same thing. The shorter route isn't always well Recieved though. 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## leepersc

HA, HA, guys! Sorry Emperor, I did not mean to insinuate that your info wasn't educated. To be honest, I hadn't even seen your post when I typed what I typed. Seeing it now, thank you for your help. All of this info sounds pretty damned educated to me! Also, short and sweet is the only way I prefer to garner info/experience!!


----------



## Shane

Guys,
Simple question, but if someone wanted to build a very high grade RCA for balanced and differential inputs, what would be the most appropriate cable/wire to use??
The Belkin cable? the Canare ??


----------



## WestCo

Shane said:


> Guys,
> Simple question, but if someone wanted to build a very high grade RCA for balanced and differential inputs, what would be the most appropriate cable/wire to use??
> The Belkin cable? the Canare ??


https://www.markertek.com/product/2534-pe/mogami-w2534-neglex-quad-mic-cable-purple-per-foot

Best of the best


----------



## Hubbard 0

I'll be "the guy" and bring this thread back for a quick question.

I plan to do my own RCA's and I'm leaning towards using coax wire to do so. With coax, since there is only the center conductor and the outer shield, I will have to connect the shield at both ends for a complete signal, right?


----------



## Theslaking

Don't do it all with coaxial cable. It will pass signal they way you described but it will also pass all kinds of noise. You need some type of shield to act as a drain not a noise inducer.


----------



## Hubbard 0

Thanks.

I actually looked up price for cable and Gepco is only $.18 /ft compared the $.88/ ft for Belden Coax, so that made my decision much easier.

However, I just remembered that I will have to build a digital cable to go from BT receiver to DSP. Should I use Gepco for that as well or would coax be fitting for that application?


----------



## Hubbard 0

They're not RCAs, but I built a couple 3.5mm aux cables to get an idea of how the sleeve I got would look.

Turned out pretty good and I think I'll be using the yellow/black for my RCAs when I do the false floor. Now to figure out a color for the speaker wires and power cables.

Gepco 61801EZ, 550 Paracord, Rean NYS231BG connectors









Gepco 61801EZ, 550 Paracord, VizGiz (Amazon) connectors









The gold seems out of place, but it matches the SO's phone case and will likely be plugged into the glovebox anyway.


----------



## DCB305

Ok, so i’d like to get my cables exact length for my install and will be attempting to make my own thanks to this thread.

I was thinking about using RG59 mini coax with compression fittings for ease. My only concern is the grounding. Reading through the thread I learned that when using the mic cable I would need to float the ground, but in a coax I don’t think there is a way to do that, so is it necessary? Would it be detrimental? Should I just go the route of using mic cable and soldering up my connectors?

Thanks everyone for making a great thread!


----------



## dgage

Coax cable is not grounded unless you send it through a grounding block. And on one end, you could try to remove the shielding to float it but the way coax connectors push down into the cable, that might not be possible.


----------



## Theslaking

DCB305 said:


> Ok, so i’d like to get my cables exact length for my install and will be attempting to make my own thanks to this thread.


Since I made my cables and decided it was no longer worth it I've just cut the cables I purchased to length and re-soldered the connectors. Still looks factory and only takes a couple minutes.


----------



## Lstruck

Hubbard 0 said:


> They're not RCAs, but I built a couple 3.5mm aux cables to get an idea of how the sleeve I got would look.
> 
> Turned out pretty good and I think I'll be using the yellow/black for my RCAs when I do the false floor. Now to figure out a color for the speaker wires and power cables.


I'm interested in using paracord, can you give a brief description on how you did it? I've always used techflex, but I like the fact the paracord adds some "beef" to the cables.


----------



## jasonflair50

to: DCB305

i made mine exactly the way you described, but i used quad shield RG6 and I had no problems. my amps are JBL and Hifonics and the RCAs run out of an Audio Control LC2i. I dont notice any difference from the preterm streetwires rcas i was using.


----------



## ajt976

Lstruck said:


> I'm interested in using paracord, can you give a brief description on how you did it? I've always used techflex, but I like the fact the paracord adds some "beef" to the cables.


When I've done this in the past, you just cut the paracord to length, pull out the inner cord material, and fuse the ends of the outer "jacket". After that it's just working it over the cable like you would TechFlex, secure with heatshrink.

Yank out the white stuff here:


----------



## Hubbard 0

Lstruck said:


> I'm interested in using paracord, can you give a brief description on how you did it? I've always used techflex, but I like the fact the paracord adds some "beef" to the cables.


I bought a couple different sizes of paracord to make sure I got the right diameter. There's a lot of options on Amazon. If you oversize it, there's a lot of shrinking/pulling you can do to get a snug fit.

Cut to length, pull out the inner fibers, for the ends you can either hit them with some heat to prevent fraying, or tuck them into the connector.


----------



## Lstruck

I spent a bit youtubing last night. I have never worked with paracord, so I wasn't aware the inner braid was removable! Thanks for the idea!


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## dumdum

Is there any reason why this cable won’t work very well? It’s basically 35 pounds for 100ft and I can mix and match colours at that...

http://www.van-damme.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Van_Damme_Tour_Grade_Classic_XKE_Mic.pdf

Seems pretty low capacitance and I can put the shield to the source end and use the twin conductors for signal and signal ground...

And then thinking plugs Like these...

https://cpc.farnell.com/rean/nys352bg/phono-plug-black-shell-gold/dp/CN19683

So 4x 4m RCA’s and 8x <1.5m cables with some fudge room and spare plugs would be 65 pounds (85-90 dollars I reckon) plus some tech flex maybe ?


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## bbfoto

dumdum said:


> Is there any reason why this cable won’t work very well? It’s basically 35 pounds for 100ft and I can mix and match colours at that...
> 
> http://www.van-damme.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Van_Damme_Tour_Grade_Classic_XKE_Mic.pdf
> 
> Seems pretty low capacitance and I can put the shield to the source end and use the twin conductors for signal and signal ground...
> 
> And then thinking plugs Like these...
> 
> https://cpc.farnell.com/rean/nys352bg/phono-plug-black-shell-gold/dp/CN19683
> 
> So 4x 4m RCA’s and 8x <1.5m cables with some fudge room and spare plugs would be 65 pounds (85-90 dollars I reckon) plus some tech flex maybe ?



Looks good. Microphone cable typically works really well for RCA interconnects. I've used the Grimm Audio 
TPR & TPM mic cable, and the Sommer Cable SC Peacock MK II twin-lead mic cable with excellent results.

Probably the most important aspect for car audio use is the quality & coverage of the shield(s).

That multicolored Van Damme cable is a great idea for channel I.D. and at decent pricing as well. ?

And those Rean RCA plugs are good, too.


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## Chris12

For those that use paracord instead of Techflex (PET expandable braided sleeving), what’s the price difference?

100’ of 1/4” or 1/2” braided PET is usually around $10. What would 100’ of 1/2” paracord cost?


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## SlvrDragon50

Chris12 said:


> For those that use paracord instead of Techflex (PET expandable braided sleeving), what’s the price difference?
> 
> 100’ of 1/4” or 1/2” braided PET is usually around $10. What would 100’ of 1/2” paracord cost?


IIRC, pretty similar cost. Paracord is more painful to use though.


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## Hubbard 0

dumdum said:


> Is there any reason why this cable won’t work very well? It’s basically 35 pounds for 100ft and I can mix and match colours at that...
> 
> http://www.van-damme.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Van_Damme_Tour_Grade_Classic_XKE_Mic.pdf
> 
> Seems pretty low capacitance and I can put the shield to the source end and use the twin conductors for signal and signal ground...
> 
> And then thinking plugs Like these...
> 
> https://cpc.farnell.com/rean/nys352bg/phono-plug-black-shell-gold/dp/CN19683
> 
> So 4x 4m RCA’s and 8x <1.5m cables with some fudge room and spare plugs would be 65 pounds (85-90 dollars I reckon) plus some tech flex maybe ?


It's been said numerous times already, but while microphone cable will work, it is wildly overkill. You are paying more than necessary and will end up with a cable that is thicker and more difficult to run multiple lines of under the trim of a car. That cable is meant to be thrashed, stepped on, rolled over, coiled over and over again, and dragged on the ground.


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## bbfoto

Hubbard 0 said:


> It's been said numerous times already, but while microphone cable
> will work, it is wildly overkill. You are paying more than necessary and will end up with a cable that is
> thicker and more difficult to run multiple lines of under the trim of a car. That cable is meant to be
> thrashed, stepped on, rolled over, coiled over and over again, and dragged on the ground.


That's not always true. Yes, the Grimm Audio mic cable is typical mic cable thickness and expensive,
but the Sommer Cable is really affordable for what it is and much thinner.

Both are considered about the best cable that money can buy, in terms of both construction
quality and signal quality.

I have also built a lot of my own microphone cables for my classic ribbon microphones,
so I had plenty of extra mic cable on hand to make custom-length RCA cables. And it's even less
expensive to buy in bulk, of course.

RFI & EMI can be a real problem with a lot of the old, classic ribbon microphones, so you want the
highest-qualilty shielded conductors possible. And while you *might not* need that extra noise
rejection in your particular vehicle, it is definitely not going to hurt anything when applied to any
car audio environment.

And some vehicles are notorious for inducted noise issues...Porsche, and some Audi & Mercedes, for example.

Check out the *Sommer Cable SC Peacock Mk II* twin lead mic cable. It's super flexible to accommodate
tight-radius turns. And it's a lot thinner than most typical mic cables, and actually thinner/smaller
diameter than _many_ of the car audio branded RCAs that I've used!




















It's actually quite affordable if you compare it to the cost of many of the upper tier car audio brands,
and probably superior in many ways. Available in black and blue. And you can get it in up to 8 stereo
pair conductors in a single jacket. The images above show the standard stereo pair cable, which
is able to be separated just like common "zip cord".

Also keep in mind that the cost listed is _per Meter_, not per foot...so ~$5 for a high-quality 3ft RCA
cable plus the cost of the RCA plugs of your choice is very reasonable considering the quality.

https://www.thomann.de/gb/sommer_cable_peacock_aes_ebu_black.htm


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## dumdum

First effort done, labelled and braided ?? Earthier the shield at the source end only, and heatshrinked the end of the cable inside the plug to isolate the shield end so it’s not touching the plug at all

One more long run to go, plugs fit nice on sockets ?


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## thendric18

subd


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## mrstop

Looking to make a 6-Channel RCA cable. About the only thing I have found in 12-conductor is Gepco Gep Flex GA61812GFC. Any thoughts on this wire, or other alternatives?









Gepco GA61812GFC Gep-Flex Multipair 22 AWG Mic or Line Level Balanced Analog Audio Cable 12-Pair Per Foot


The GA618 series is Gepco's original multi-pair cable. Designed for low noise and attenuation, GA series multi-pair is durable, easy to terminate, and UL listed.




www.markertek.com





Gepco Brand -- Audio and Video Cable Products


Regarding RCA connectors, I have used Neutrik Rean in past cable builds. Is there anything shorter?


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## Theslaking

Wet sounds makes a 6 channel. If you want a specific length cut off the hidden end and solder


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## mrstop

Theslaking said:


> Wet sounds makes a 6 channel. If you want a specific length cut off the hidden end and solder


I have seen other 6 channel cables, but I only need around 4' to go between the processor and amp. If I have to cut and solder new ends, I may as well buy bulk and build myself.


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## Theslaking

That's definitely to short to be buying a cable.

Wrap any 12 wires of your choice in tech flex or matching color tubing, heat shrink or pants.


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## mrstop

Might go separate wires as it might be more flexible and lower profile. I have some old interconnects I could repurpose along with the remaining roll of 22/2 microphone cable I purchased from Parts Express years ago. However, the "12-in-one" seems like a more elegant solution, albeit maybe a bit thicker and less flexible.

I found some Switchcraft "short body" rca connects. Any thoughts on these?









Switchcraft 3502 RCA Male (Short Body)


Switchcraft 3502 2 conductor shielded RCA straight plug, cable up to 0.203' (5.16mm) diameter, terminals crimped or soldered. Nickel plated copper alloy body & handle.




www.markertek.com


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