# SQ 6.5" subwoofer???



## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

So here is the deal. I am currently running 2 DIYMA 12's inverted, however i just found out that i am going to become a new daddy...... so i need something more appropriate for the situation, and i will need all the trunk space i can get. 

I have an 05' Jaguar X-Type which i can do 1 of 2 things

1- Mount a 6.5" woofer in the rear door

2- Mount a 6.5" on/in the rear deck lid.

Not sure which will sound better, anyone have any experience with these locations for a dedicated (sub)woofer?

I am still doing some reaserch on a good 6.5 (sub)woofer. any suggestions?

I am not looking for something to shake the car nor does it have to be extremely loud, just has to mix well with the front stage (Focal 165VR).

I have plenty of power availabale to run these (Infinity Kappa ONE). 
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

+1 4 ainal.

leave the jag alone and get a toyota for the fam.


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

search for info on Tang Band W6-1139SI 

Also check out ItalynStylion's build log/pictures/comments on these. He had 4 in the trunk of his IS300, and I believe is planning on running them in his new truck.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

60ndown said:


> +1 4 ainal.
> 
> leave the jag alone and get a toyota for the fam.


I would never own an asian import again, had an Accord, and a Camry..... will never do again.

Those vehicle work great for some people just not me


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## Tonyguy (Nov 15, 2007)

Ultra has some badass 6" subs. I'd look into them. I believe there's a review around here by BobMorrow. Also whatever you get, I'd put in the rear deck and let them load off of the rear glass.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

Thanks for the help guys.

I must also add the and sub that can be run IB would be ideal


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## billbillw (Aug 25, 2009)

ED has a 6.5" sub that is supposed to be pretty good. They are cheap ($40), so you might be able to do a pair of them.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_21&products_id=33


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

Th ultra is a little outside of my price range right now. but look like a great canidate.


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

No way to go up to 8" for IB? the cone area will be helpful. There is an 8" IB Review from (I think) nismos14 floating around this forum.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

wish i could but the opening in bot the door and the rear deck lid are for a 6.5" i do not want to do any cutting/trimming so it will have to be this size. 

Thanks for the heads up on the ED 3.6 they look promising. 
Also found a set of Tang Band W6-1139SI that might work as wekk.... have to build a box though


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

jaguardoc504 said:


> wish i could but the opening in bot the door and the rear deck lid are for a 6.5" i do not want to do any cutting/trimming so it will have to be this size.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the ED 3.6 they look promising.
> Also found a set of Tang Band W6-1139SI that might work as wekk.... have to build a box though


Check out the build log and info from Steven (ItalynStylion). He blew some ED subs before he went to the TB subs. And I can tell you the 4 TB subs sounded GREAT in his car.


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## Xander (Mar 20, 2007)

Is there a reason you can only do a 6.5 in the rear deck lid?

I mounted my 12" titanic IB on my rear deck lid. Works great. Although it is sort of half-a$$ed cause I didn't seal up the other 6x9 hole. but the only thing that does is decrease potential output. I've checked my excursion during the loudest I turn it up (not as much as I used to these days), and it's fine. I can't imagine you'd have as much headroom with a 6.5" though.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

Xander said:


> Is there a reason you can only do a 6.5 in the rear deck lid?
> 
> I mounted my 12" titanic IB on my rear deck lid. Works great. Although it is sort of half-a$$ed cause I didn't seal up the other 6x9 hole. but the only thing that does is decrease potential output. I've checked my excursion during the loudest I turn it up (not as much as I used to these days), and it's fine. I can't imagine you'd have as much headroom with a 6.5" though.


I though about doing that with 1 of my DIYMA's but i takes up too much space. 

Thw whole reason for going with the 6.5's is to get my trunk back for kid equipment hauling  so i dont have to get a bigger car. 

Again i am not looking for super loud just something that will blend well with the front stage and be accurate.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

I cannot find the thread for the ItalynStylion build. any help???


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## Billk1002 (Aug 23, 2009)

xander, do you have any pictures of your rear deck??


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## kkreit01 (Aug 27, 2009)

Nice ride. I've always like those. I feel ya about the "kid thing". My youngest is almost 5. We finally got rid of the stroller this year. Those things take up the whole trunk. Are you sure to can't sacrifice 1 corner for a small 8? Some 8s only need < .3 sealed. I've never heard any actual 6.5 subs. I know JL also makes some.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

Kicker makes a 6.5" sub as well Im not sure how it would do IB I have hear of a person having good results with the eD 6" IB in a rear deck.

R-


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## el_chupo_ (May 27, 2007)

jaguardoc504 said:


> I cannot find the thread for the ItalynStylion build. any help???


I thought he had a log with them, but I dont see it. maybe another site...

Here are a few spots to look:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...6524-best-6-5-7-drivers-subwoofer-duties.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-fabrication/48963-tang-band-sub-enclosure-help.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/48651-time-overhaul.html


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

thanks


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

jaguardoc504 said:


> wish i could but the opening in bot the door and the rear deck lid are for a 6.5" i do not want to do any cutting/trimming so it will have to be this size.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the ED 3.6 they look promising.
> Also found a set of Tang Band W6-1139SI that might work as wekk.... have to build a box though



Not sure if we have Acqacow on here or not, but he's running the e3.6 IB in the rear deck of his Subie and likes them so far... 

Need to buy two 6.5" drivers...current recommendations? - Page 4 - NASIOC


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

So after reading a bunch of reviews/post/opinions/build logs i have narrowed to down to 2 different (sub)woofers

ED 3.6- I am leaning tword this one cause i can run it IB, and i have read some decent (not great) reviews on it. 

Tang Band W6-1139SI- still a strong runner if i can figure out how to build a ported box (only have room to run 2 of them)


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

I actually just ordered 10 more of those Tang Bands. Don't get too excited though guys, 4 were for another IS300 owner, 2 are for messing around, and 4 will be going in the new truck. They're little monsters! You can just keep throwing power at them and they take it and sound good!


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## Kornnut (Mar 19, 2007)

ItalynStylion said:


> I actually just ordered 10 more of those Tang Bands. Don't get too excited though guys, 4 were for another IS300 owner, 2 are for messing around, and 4 will be going in the new truck. They're little monsters! You can just keep throwing power at them and they take it and sound good!


Hell yeah Fear Factory. I would love to do something like that in my truck or car. Just to be different.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Kornnut said:


> Hell yeah Fear Factory. I would love to do something like that in my truck or car. Just to be different.


You can certainly hear mine when I finish it 



PS: I've gotten two PM's asking "how low" these can play. In the sealed box I had them in when I had the Lexus IS300 (from the videos) I could get 20hz out of them. At what db level I have no idea; so the scope of that question is quite ill defined. 

However, I offered both PM's the same response, in graph form. Here is a model of them in a ported box that's too small for them (space constraints) that I built for another IS300 guy. I shipped this box out last week. Keep in mind the amount of cabin gain at work in the car. This setup should certainly have some low end.


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## balane (Jul 4, 2009)

For a while I ran a couple of the little JL 6.5" subs isobarically in a tiny bandpass box. It sounded amazing. Nobody could believe how much bass that shoe box pumped out.


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## bobduch (Jul 22, 2005)

IIRC, there was a thread on ECA a few years back about running an 8" through a 6.5" cut out. And I believe the verdict was that that would work just fine.


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## WLDock (Sep 27, 2005)

OK, I thought the 6.5's were a VERY cool idea for a guy that wanted bass in a Miata but.....I thought the Peerless SLS 6.5 might work out...but not sure how low you you could get IB? Would need to model them up.

Anyway, you have SO much more room than that guy. How about a couple of 10's, 12's, single 15" IB? would take up very little space and I am sure you could still get the stoller or playpen in that *16 cubic foot trunk.*










Hell, My much larger Chrysler 300M has only a slightly larger trunk, 16.8 Cu Ft. packed up a family of four for a camping trip and still was able to get the webber grill in the back.

I think you are underestimating how big your trunk actually is. If I were you, I would get the folded dimensions of the items you plan to carry. I am sure you will find that IB subs will still allow enough space to get around town with the baby items.


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## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

A single JL 6W0 or 6W3 in a good ported box will get you some good results. They will not be able to handle any balls but they should give you a good output. 4 - 6W0's in a ported box will play down to 30 but it is a big box.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

WLDock said:


> OK, I thought the 6.5's were a VERY cool idea for a guy that wanted bass in a Miata but.....I thought the Peerless SLS 6.5 might work out...but not sure how low you you could get IB? Would need to model them up.
> 
> Anyway, you have SO much more room than that guy. How about a couple of 10's, 12's, single 15" IB? would take up very little space and I am sure you could still get the stoller or playpen in that *16 cubic foot trunk.*
> 
> ...





I am complete agreement that the trunk is huge when compared to others, we always take my car on trips instead of my wifes 06' 3 series. But my wife and i are very active people. So when we go on a trip we will bring the MTN bike, camping gear, dog, and all the stuff that goes into a 5 day trip to the smokey MTNs (this past summer). and my car was loaded to the hilt. It is a good thing my dog only weighs 50lbs (australian sheppard/mix), he was able to be packed into a very tight spot. (maybe 3'X3') so even with packoing very efficently, we ran outta room. i could just imagine adding a kid to the mix. 

if you look @ the picture, my box extends beyone the arch where the spare tire cover is (i usually take it out when going to on trips). That is a lot of room. One thing i was considering is maybe going to a HO 12" that would fit into a small space <1cuft. Any ideas.

i am still on the idea of 2 6.5" from the rear deck running IB....... so propbably the ED 3.6's will be the choice and @ $40 i may pick up a few given the spotted quality i have heard about. Wil more than likely run to D2 version @ 2ohm total load thus giving me about 800WRMS on tap, use maybe 300Wrms of that to run these. Any thoughts.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

Would anyone be willing to model the ED 3.6's running IB?

Specifications 


Qts: .29
Qes: .30
Qms: 10.5
Fs: 28.00Hz 
Re: 3.2 
Vas: 22L 
Mms: 50.0g
Bl: 13.30T*m 
SPL: 85dB
Sd: 114cm² 
Xmax: 13.0mm 
Voice Coil: 38.0mm

Magnet Width: 5.000"
Cutout Diameter: 5.700"
Mounting Depth: 3.518"
Weight: 7lb
Total Height: 4.000"
Displacement: .04 ft³
Outside Diameter: 6.75"


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Alright bud, here's what I've got for ya...

The first graph is a 900liter sealed enclosure (IB) and the response is less than impressive IMO. You'll run out of Xmax with 200watts on the pair at about 40hz. I see that being a problem.

So man up and take graph #2 like I did. Do a hanging box from the rear deck. Make it 20 liters (0.7cubic feet) and tune it to 27hz. Yeah, I know the graph says 25hz but I did 27hz after I loaded it up in photobucket and I like the response at 27hz tuning better I think. Plus, it will make the build a little easier. A slot port will be your best bet since the port length will be longer.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

ItalynStylion said:


> Alright bud, here's what I've got for ya...
> 
> The first graph is a 900liter sealed enclosure (IB) and the response is less than impressive IMO. You'll run out of Xmax with 200watts on the pair at about 40hz. I see that being a problem.
> 
> So man up and take graph #2 like I did. Do a hanging box from the rear deck. Make it 20 liters (0.7cubic feet) and tune it to 27hz. Yeah, I know the graph says 25hz but I did 27hz after I loaded it up in photobucket and I like the response at 27hz tuning better I think. Plus, it will make the build a little easier. A slot port will be your best bet since the port length will be longer.



Thanks a bunch!!!!

I guess i will have to figure out how i am going build a box........


Thanks again.


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## Jroo (May 24, 2006)

Maybe Italyn Stylion knows this, but how would those Tang Bangs do in a Transmission line enclosure? I loved the 4 sealed, but I wonder how a pair in a T line would do?


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

Jroo said:


> Maybe Italyn Stylion knows this, but how would those Tang Bangs do in a Transmission line enclosure? I loved the 4 sealed, but I wonder how a pair in a T line would do?


That I don't know. I think they would do VERY well but I have no factual evidence to support that. I really don't know much about T-line design. I was in the process of reading some files on T-line design but I started having to work for a living so the learning curve on that took a dive; for now.


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## Brian Steele (Jun 1, 2007)

Jroo said:


> Maybe Italyn Stylion knows this, but how would those Tang Bangs do in a Transmission line enclosure? I loved the 4 sealed, but I wonder how a pair in a T line would do?


How about a tapped horn?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

jaguardoc504 said:


> So here is the deal. I am currently running 2 DIYMA 12's inverted, however i just found out that i am going to become a new daddy...... so i need something more appropriate for the situation, and i will need all the trunk space i can get.
> 
> I have an 05' Jaguar X-Type which i can do 1 of 2 things
> 
> ...


My vote goes for option 2. Nothing against option one, it has plenty of advantages as well, I'm just thinking of a fun install I did yesterday for a customer who had a similar situation. It was a 2001 Nissan Sentra, I thought about taking pictures but it was such a basic install I didn't bother. Here's what we did, and my impressions, I hope some of it's helpful. We just used a cheap Lanzar 6.5", this model: Amazon.com: Lanzar MAXP64 Max Pro 6.5-Inch 600-Watt Small-Enclosure 4-Ohm Subwoofer: Electronics While that link says it's a "small enclosure sub" it has a Qts of 1.2  and is really _only_ suitable for IB. I would recommend something nicer given the quality of your front components, but this is the one we used.


1) Stripped down the rear deck area, removed all speakers, wires, etc.
2) Used expanding foam (careful!) and aluminum tape to cover all holes, and isolate the trunk from the car. We actually did the foam in layers over the last few days, so it wouldn't expand too much all at once and damage things.
3) Put a heater in the trunk to warm up the rear deck (it's cold in Idaho right now) and threw down a few layers of FatMat. By a few, I mean one layer everywhere, and two to four in problem areas.
4) Put foam baffles under the 6.5" mid-basses we had previously installed, and bolted them down tight. Someone's gonna freak out and say the foam baffles were a mistake, but I didn't want the violent bass air messing with the other speakers. 
5) Removed the factory sub (a 1-ohm 6" driver with _maybe_ a 50 watt amp built into the back). The factory sub had a plastic trim ring and metal bracket that allowed it to bottom-mount. We couldn't use this because the replacement driver was a 6.5").
6) Built an adapter. The factory sub fired through a rectangular hole in the metal which was roughly 3" by 6". I didn't feel like cutting sheet metal at the moment, so I made a baffle out of 3/4" MDF, about 8" by 12" (the biggest I could go without getting in the way of anything else) and cut a round hole for the sub fire through.
7) Installed the aftermarket sub. I bottom-mounted it to the MDF baffle, stapled some 2" open-cell foam to the top of the baffle, then pre-drilled some holes in the MDF and used the factory holes from the original bracket to secure the sub to the rear deck. The sub still fires through the 3" x 6" hole in the rear deck, but it's a much sturdier surface after deadening it and attaching the MDF baffle.
8) Installed the amp, wired everything, don't need details here. 150 watts RMS, probably could have gone a bit bigger but the whole thing was on a tight budget.


Listening impressions: first, I'll say my customer was quite satisfied. Thrilled, even. However, I'll qualify that: it wasn't deep, overwhelming, knock-your-socks-off bass. It added a decent kick to the bass region, and definitely played lower than his two pairs of 6.5" mid-basses would. We set the crossover at about 80 Hz, and it plays pretty clean from about 40 to 80. Gets a tiny bit muddy below 40, but the overall sound blends well and gives music a much fuller sound. Given free reign, I might have spent a bit more on the sub and the amp, but seeing as it's a 6.5" subwoofer, you'll face diminishing returns very early in the game. I'd say this is a perfect setup for a family car - we maintained 100% factory look (unless you're carefully investigating the inside of the trunk or taking apart the rear deck), added a little kick, and left all of the storage space useable. Better yet, his wife (who was skeptical of the whole process) now wants a similar system in her car!


I would _only_ recommend that Lanzar if you're on a budget, I can't say it's the best woofer I've heard by any stretch of the imagination, but it did respectably well given its diminutive size. I'm guessing the Qts will settle in a bit lower after the sub has time to get broken in, which should also improve sound a bit. I'm not sure what sub to recommend if you're _not_ on a budget, I don't have much experience with subs this small. One last idea, if you're willing to try something similar to this install, you might install an 8" sub from below, firing through the 6.5" hole with an MDF baffle in between. In theory that could change up the sound a bit due to extra restriction, but it's still less restriction than most enclosures would cause. If it doesn't sound good to you, it's easy to take the baffle off and try a 6.5" instead. I also think deadening the rear deck helped a lot, the original factory sub would shake the deck a lot but not get very loud, this one hardly shakes the rear deck at all, and has a decent kick.


Sorry it was a long post, but I tried to stay on-topic. Summary: mounting a small sub in the rear deck is an okay solution if you only want a little bit of bass. Just put proper attention into it, and set your expectations low... You might be pleasantly surprised. The idea does break a general rule for IB setups and will not yield phenomenal results, since most IB setups aim for the largest cone area possible.


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## npdang (Jul 29, 2005)

6.5" driver could work when used in multiple units, ported, etc. but again the limiting factor is that you would need 4 of them to equal the surface area of 1 12" sub.

Factor in the rather limited excursion capabilities of most 6.5" drivers, the volume required, and not to mention the expense I think it'd probably make more sense to use a single small box 12" than to mess around with 6.5" drivers. It could neatly be tucked away in the corner of a trunk, etc. 

You could also fire some 10" subs through a 6x9 or 6.5" cutout without any problems. Only the upper frequencies would really be affected ... depending on the thickness of the metal.


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## Brian Steele (Jun 1, 2007)

npdang said:


> 6.5" driver could work when used in multiple units, ported, etc. but again the limiting factor is that you would need 4 of them to equal the surface area of 1 12" sub.
> 
> Factor in the rather limited excursion capabilities of most 6.5" drivers, the volume required, and not to mention the expense I think it'd probably make more sense to use a single small box 12" than to mess around with 6.5" drivers. It could neatly be tucked away in the corner of a trunk, etc.


Agreed. You do have some flexibility wrt box dimensions though, if you go with multiple smaller drivers rather than one big one.


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## SQ27801 (Mar 30, 2009)

I have used a set of Morel's MW-220 8's in the past with wonderful results. They can go low and are shallow. They are strickly SQ. Good luchk with your final decision.


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## Qicker306 (Oct 2, 2009)

I've heard multiple JL6W3's before, sounded pretty good for 6's. Two of those in the rear deck would be noticible I'd say. 150W, run them at 4 ohms if you got the power.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

TJ thanks for the help, post wasn't too long. Very informative. 

I am still on the fence now as i have aquired, over the weekend, a factory sub enclosure. This will fit 2 6.5" drives and has about 1.5FT^3 of space, and will mount to the rear deck. I will deaden and reinforce the crap out of it, cause it is only a cheap plastic enclosure. 

I may be able to do the Tang Band's now. 

I am going to do a little more reasearch and let everyone know what i end up doing.


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

bobduch said:


> IIRC, there was a thread on ECA a few years back about running an 8" through a 6.5" cut out. And I believe the verdict was that that would work just fine.


With a bit of fabrication, you can fire a pair of twelves through a 6.5" cutout. We do this in horn enclosures all the time. It flattens the frequency response. It also reduces distortion mechanically, by forming a physical low pass filter.


















Here's a pic of how it looks.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

If I want more output, I shoot for twice the cone area going to IB. Mostly because I know I will want all that bottom end. For a 6.5 hole, I'd hang a 10 under it and see what happens. Don't need a super special 10, just midrange one with a higher Qts and lower Fs.


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## Neil (Dec 9, 2005)

Think about the Exodus Audio Anarchy's. DIYCable.com. more info at hometheatershack.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

jaguardoc504 said:


> TJ thanks for the help, post wasn't too long. Very informative.
> 
> I am still on the fence now as i have aquired, over the weekend, a factory sub enclosure. This will fit 2 6.5" drives and has about 1.5FT^3 of space, and will mount to the rear deck. I will deaden and reinforce the crap out of it, cause it is only a cheap plastic enclosure.
> 
> ...


Awesome! Sounds PERFECT! Throw two 3" ports in there and tune it fairly low. Should come out after port displacement to be nearly ideal.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

jaguardoc504 said:


> TJ thanks for the help, post wasn't too long. Very informative.
> 
> I am still on the fence now as i have aquired, over the weekend, a factory sub enclosure. This will fit 2 6.5" drives and has about 1.5FT^3 of space, and will mount to the rear deck. I will deaden and reinforce the crap out of it, cause it is only a cheap plastic enclosure.
> 
> ...


If you line the inside of the enclosure with two or three good layers of fiberglass, that should make it pretty sturdy. I'm assuming, since you said it's a factory enclosure, that the subs fire directly into the cab. If this is the case, I would _not_ port it unless you fire the port into the cab as well, which could require cutting metal (which you wanted to avoid). This isn't a Bose enclosure, is it?

I would still adequately deaden the rear deck and come up with some sort of MDF baffle to stiffen it up if necessary. Not sure to what extent that will be required, I don't remember if the rear decks are as flimsy on these Jags, but it really can't hurt. It certainly made a big difference compared to stock in the '01 Sentra I mentioned.

The response slopes off early - around 70 or 80 Hz - for most 6s and 6.5s in that enclosure, but that just means it will self-correct for cabin gain.

Running an enclosure like the one you described will eliminate many of the problems associated with IB (such as air leaks, large cone area needed, etc.) and will probably simplify things overall. Really you could run the Tang Bands in that enclosure without modifying it much at all (except for the fiberglass I recommended, since it's flimsy plastic). If you feel you need a higher Qtc you could fill the bottom part of the chamber with expanding foam or something similar to take up the extra space (Vas seems a tad low for that size box on the TBs). Efficiency also seems a bit low, but that's usually the tradeoff for higher Xmax. Also some drivers have better power handling than the Tang Bands, but probably not the Xmax to play cleanly as low as the TBs could. This one modeled particularly well and seemed like a good option, until I remembered the tiny Xmax typical of pro drivers:

Parts-Express.com:Selenium 6W4P 6" Woofer | 6" woofer 6 inch woofer midbass driver pro sound sound reinforcement PA specsave110408

Still almost worth a try at that price, LOL, even though I know they aren't really meant to play that low. Who says you actually need to use the right tool for the job?  There are also some 6.5" Kickers that have been mentioned, might consider those, but I don't have time to look up the specs ATM.


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> If you line the inside of the enclosure with two or three good layers of fiberglass, that should make it pretty sturdy. I'm assuming, since you said it's a factory enclosure, that the subs fire directly into the cab. If this is the case, I would _not_ port it unless you fire the port into the cab as well, which could require cutting metal (which you wanted to avoid). This isn't a Bose enclosure, is it?
> 
> I would still adequately deaden the rear deck and come up with some sort of MDF baffle to stiffen it up if necessary. Not sure to what extent that will be required, I don't remember if the rear decks are as flimsy on these Jags, but it really can't hurt. It certainly made a big difference compared to stock in the '01 Sentra I mentioned.
> 
> ...



The rear deck is pretty solid and currenty damped pretty well. I was having issues with the rear parcel shelf ratteling with the 2 12's so i deaden it and added some foam for spacing it's pretty strong and tight now. 



Jaguar does not use bose. It is made through alpine, one active 6.5 and then a passive 6.5....... nice $2000 premium audio option 

I could run ports into the cab, there are a few openings that i could utilize if need be. 


Italynstylion- any idea on what length of 3" port i would need to achieve the desired slop?


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

jaguardoc504 said:


> The rear deck is pretty solid and currenty damped pretty well. I was having issues with the rear parcel shelf ratteling with the 2 12's so i deaden it and added some foam for spacing it's pretty strong and tight now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'll let IS answer for the length, since I don't feel like opening my spreadsheet again. My gut reaction though is that using two 3" ports will require an unreasonably long port length given 1) it's a small enclosure, and 2) you'll be tuning pretty low. A single 3" port, if you want to go ported, would be adequate IMO. But that's just my gut reaction.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> I'll let IS answer for the length, since I don't feel like opening my spreadsheet again. My gut reaction though is that using two 3" ports will require an unreasonably long port length given 1) it's a small enclosure, and 2) you'll be tuning pretty low. A single 3" port, if you want to go ported, would be adequate IMO. But that's just my gut reaction.


I agree that a single 3" might be ok. However, unibox says it would make a little noise. However, from my experience it's usually quite conservative in its port size suggestions regarding chuffing so a single 3" might do just fine. I agree with TJ that the box could likely benefit from some reinforcing. You'll likely need to fill up some space too.

Running everything in Unibox I'd say that 1 cube (28liters) tuned to 30hz would do quite nicely. Nearly board flat response down to about 35hz WITHOUT cabin gain. Passing that point (lower) you'd get a substantial boost from the car in those frequencies. This tuning would require a 47 cm (18.5") 3" port to tune.

Here is a screen shot of what I have modeled.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

jaguardoc504 said:


> TJ thanks for the help, post wasn't too long. Very informative.
> 
> I am still on the fence now as i have aquired, over the weekend, a factory sub enclosure. This will fit 2 6.5" drives and has about 1.5FT^3 of space, and will mount to the rear deck. I will deaden and reinforce the crap out of it, cause it is only a cheap plastic enclosure.
> 
> ...


Wouldn't just be easer to make a small MDF enclosure the same size as the stock enclosure and install brackets to match the stock box? Instead of polishing the turd of a plastic box with fiberglass..

My be its just be but fiberglass seems like a pain.

I guess if you port the box it might not need to be as stiff or rather you :worried: could get away with it.

I'm no expert but I guess this is just my $0.02

R-


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

labcoat22 said:


> Wouldn't just be easer to make a small MDF enclosure the same size as the stock enclosure and install brackets to match the stock box? Instead of polishing the turd of a plastic box with fiberglass..
> 
> My be its just be but fiberglass seems like a pain.
> 
> ...


I agree but not everyone has access to a robust amount of tools.


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

labcoat22 said:


> Wouldn't just be easer to make a small MDF enclosure the same size as the stock enclosure and install brackets to match the stock box? Instead of polishing the turd of a plastic box with fiberglass..
> 
> Maybe its just me but fiberglass seems like a pain.
> 
> ...


There's definitely more than one right way to build a system, I'm only recommending what seems easiest to me. I'm not much of a fiberglass guy myself either, I only touch the stuff when it makes things easier.

I'm not saying to use fiberglass for the sake of making it look pretty. My recommendation for fiberglass stems simply from my opinion that fiberglass is actually quite easy when you don't have to worry about the finished look. Since he's got a slightly larger than necessary enclosure, using up a tiny bit of space on the inside to reinforce it is no problem at all. Besides, he could easily have two layers done within an hour, faster if he's done it before, and just about any decent MDF box would take longer than that to build. It's also a weight issue, I'd much rather have a 5 pound piece of fiberglass hanging from the rear deck than a 40 pound MDF box. (Says the man who's sub, amp, and box combo weighs nearly 200 pounds :blush


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## TJ Mobile Audio (May 6, 2009)

ItalynStylion said:


> I agree but not everyone has access to a robust amount of tools.


That's a good point too, that hadn't even occurred to me. I tend to take owning tools for granted... But it's true, fiberglass requires relatively few tools compared to MDF. Circular saw or table saw, router, and a few good drills at a bare minimum IMO. Unfinished fiberglass takes a paintbrush, a bowl, and some rubber gloves.


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## labcoat22 (Mar 29, 2009)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> That's a good point too, that hadn't even occurred to me. I tend to take owning tools for granted... But it's true, fiberglass requires relatively few tools compared to MDF. Circular saw or table saw, router, and a few good drills at a bare minimum IMO. Unfinished fiberglass takes a paintbrush, a bowl, and some rubber gloves.


All very good points, I had to borrow a router to make my enclosure. 

R-


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## Patrick Bateman (Sep 11, 2006)

TJ Mobile Audio said:


> There's definitely more than one right way to build a system, I'm only recommending what seems easiest to me. I'm not much of a fiberglass guy myself either, I only touch the stuff when it makes things easier.
> 
> I'm not saying to use fiberglass for the sake of making it look pretty. My recommendation for fiberglass stems simply from my opinion that fiberglass is actually quite easy when you don't have to worry about the finished look. Since he's got a slightly larger than necessary enclosure, using up a tiny bit of space on the inside to reinforce it is no problem at all. Besides, he could easily have two layers done within an hour, faster if he's done it before, and just about any decent MDF box would take longer than that to build. It's also a weight issue, I'd much rather have a 5 pound piece of fiberglass hanging from the rear deck than a 40 pound MDF box. (Says the man who's sub, amp, and box combo weighs nearly 200 pounds :blush


If fiberglass is too much hassle, subfloor adhesive makes a fine deadener. A big ol' tube of it is $8 at Home Depot.










The horns under my dash use fiberglass AND subfloor adhesive, in a constrained layer damping sandwich.


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## m R g S r (Oct 1, 2009)

Just ordered 2 tang band 6.5's for midbass in the rear deck. I want to keep the trunk so I will be running them with small sealed boxes underneath the rear deck. 150 watts each from a zapco Studio 300. I'll let you know how they sound.


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## Mless5 (Aug 21, 2006)

Patrick Bateman said:


> If fiberglass is too much hassle, subfloor adhesive makes a fine deadener. A big ol' tube of it is $8 at Home Depot.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Patrick, sounds like it will save some messy FG work, but is it really as strong as a few layers of glass?


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

I am only going to use the housing as a mold more or less. I do have the tools available, but cannot perform the work at my apt. comples. would have to drive 3hrs to my parents house in maine to do the work. Pls it is in a very confined space making the modeling process a little bit of a PITA

Fibeglass, some MDF bracing, and some deadening will do the trick. 

I ordered 2 Tang Bands today and 2 ED 3.6's.

I want to try them both and see what I like. The beauty is in the ear of the listener.


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## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Can't wait to hear your results, I'm in the same boat with an 07 Accord Coupe. I want to keep things as stealthy as possible but with good SQ. I'm willing to sacrifice some depth to keep things simple and clean.


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## fiberglasslvr (Oct 4, 2009)

tang bands are pretty awsome but i have always love the CDT 06+ those thing are awsome you should check them out.


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## ItalynStylion (May 3, 2008)

jaguardoc504 said:


> I am only going to use the housing as a mold more or less. I do have the tools available, but cannot perform the work at my apt. comples. would have to drive 3hrs to my parents house in maine to do the work. Pls it is in a very confined space making the modeling process a little bit of a PITA
> 
> Fibeglass, some MDF bracing, and some deadening will do the trick.
> 
> ...


Oooo, let me know what you think. I've been eying those ED subs as well. They look like a really solid sub for the price. Keep us updated.


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## Krot74 (Oct 5, 2009)

Kicker SS MB6 
Parameters- Fs=64 Qts=0.62 Vas= 4 L

JL Audio 6W3v3-4 
For sealed box and real SQ. Parameters Fs= 41.8 Qts= 0.508 Vas= 5.13


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## sobe_death (Jul 31, 2008)

Nice choice on the Tang Bands. I had one in a ported box in my beater that sounded like your average 10" installed by _insert big-box-store name_. Hard to beat for the price, and it took 100+ wrms daily for over 3 years


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## jaguardoc504 (Mar 25, 2009)

and 1 year later still not done, the box, and subs have been sitting in the garage untouched.... baby, new house.... you know the drill.

This weekend i will be prepping the box, and installing the porting for the box for the rear deck (direct port into the car).....

I wil post pics and keep everyone updated.


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## illcrx (Nov 11, 2010)

I have 4 Focal 5WS's in a ported enclosure that sounded fantastic, but I couldnt put them in the trunk I had to put them in my backseat to get any kind of decent output of them. 

I would recommend the front doors and as many as you can. Oh by the way, they sounded FANTASTIC!


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Hybrid Audio just released this dynamic 6.5 subwoofer...

http://www.hybrid-audio.com/Imagine I6SW.pdf

Check it out...
Great Customer Support!!!


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