# HOW-TO: Set PPI DCX-730 gain settings



## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

This appears to come up quite often on this forum and I think I have figured out a solution that will help people remove the "hiss" and get the most out of their unit.

1) Start with the following settings:
Head unit: 0 volume
DCX-730 sensitivity: mute for all channels disable -12db attenuator
DCX-730 volume: -12db for all channels
Amp gains: 0 volume

2) Put a familiar CD in that has a very loud track that will produce a full range signal. Don't use pink noise or test tones, they don't give you a realistic output level from your head unit to use for setting gains. I chose "bulls on parade" by Rage against the machine.

3) Turn the head unit volume to 75%. This is the level you should use for most "loud" listening of well recorded CDs. Most head units will not clip at this level and it gives you some extra head room for soft passages of music or for listening to the radio.

4) With the "loud" song playing, turn up the DCX sensitivity for each channel until you see the "out" light on the main processor (not the display controller) start to blink then back off a little. Check this for each channel individually and when you are done set them all to the highest level that didn't cause clipping on any channel. Nevermind that your head unit might have 4v outputs, the value of this sensitivity means nothing, all that is important is that each value is the same and the clipping light doesn't flash when the head unit is a 75%.

5) Now start raising the gains on your amps until you get them to a volume appropriate for your listening. If you performed the previous steps correctly, you should have roughly a 3-4v output signal for your amps. Be realistic with your gain settings, don't set them any higher than you intend to listen, it will keep the noise floor low.

6) From the driver's seat, make adjustments to individual channel outputs using the "volume" settings while listening at a moderate volume. Once you determine which channels need to be adjusted, translate your changes to the amplifier gain knobs and move the DCX volume settings back to -12db. Repeat this step until the volume of each channel is correct. 

Note, It may be OK to leave a few of the volume settings at a level below -12db (ie -15db) but keep in mind that any setting above -12db (ie -6db) will change the clipping point of the outputs on the DCX and you may have to lower the sensitivity...that is why I recommend translating your adjustments to the amplifier gains instead.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Mute?


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

mute turns it off. it is the lowest setting...again I think it says mute but my display is like reading hieroglyphics at this point.


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## CMR22 (Feb 10, 2007)

It does say "mute".


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Thanks CMR22. My point was, start with everything at the lowest and raise levels starting at the head unit and ending at the amp gains. Maximize the output potential of the DCX and the noise floor will be manageable.


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

chuyler1 said:


> my display is like reading hieroglyphics at this point.


Don't get me started; you really have to be able to read between the lines on mine to see it...

I do think this is a good method of adjusting the DCX to get rid of the noise.


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

I'll try this today and see if it gets rid of my hiss. Right now the hiss is unbearable!

Some clarifications: amp gains 0 volume.. does this mean the "nominal" position on the gains, or just turn the gains all the way to achieve minimum amplification?

You're starting off with muting the sensitivity on every channel and not using any attenuation? If the sensitivity is muted, it still outputs sound? 

Thanks, this is a really useful writeup. I just hope it gets rid of my hiss!


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

MadMaxSE-L said:


> Don't get me started; you really have to be able to read between the lines on mine to see it...
> 
> I do think this is a good method of adjusting the DCX to get rid of the noise.


I think the display problem has to do with the PS/2 port connections coming loose on the display unit. I took mine apart and took the board to a PC repair shop and they soldered on a new port for $50, and it works perfectly now.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Hmm, on the display you say...not the processor? I opened mine up and did some jiggling but nothing helped.



> Some clarifications: amp gains 0 volume.. does this mean the "nominal" position on the gains, or just turn the gains all the way to achieve minimum amplification?


I mean set them at the lowest volume setting...otherwise you'll go deaf trying to set the rest of your gains. When you finally start setting gains there should be no sound coming from your speakers because you have all the inputs on the DCX set to "mute". 

For the next step when you increase the sensitivity by 1 click the sound should be just barely audible. It will get louder as you increase the sensitivity (or decrease it...I don't know the right terminology but I do know I was pressing the "up" button.) 

As you increase the sensitivity you will eventually see the "out" light on the processor start to blink. This means you went too far and you should back off one or two steps to be safe.


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

Also how bad was the hiss you guys were experiencing? Right now, with my HU turned to 0 volume (zero sound..).. this hiss is so loud that even on the freeway I can hear it. My car is pretty quiet though.


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

chuyler1 said:


> Hmm, on the display you say...not the processor? I opened mine up and did some jiggling but nothing helped.



Yep, on the display. Atleast that's what it was in my case. My issue was the display would turn on but only show one or two lines. If I took the cable and jammed it into the display unit really hard, it would work, but the second I lost even a little bit of grip, the display went out and I got the heiroglyphics.


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## CMR22 (Feb 10, 2007)

Suneet said:


> Also how bad was the hiss you guys were experiencing? Right now, with my HU turned to 0 volume (zero sound..).. this hiss is so loud that even on the freeway I can hear it. My car is pretty quiet though.


Mine is pretty bad even at -20 on the tweets. I can hear it with the AC on.


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

My hiss wasn't that bad, I just had to play with the HU volume, DCX sensitivity/volume, and amp gain to find a happy medium...

This way works better though


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Mine was audible driving at low speeds with the head unit off (processor and amps were always on if the car was on...that's how the Bose remote-turn-on wire works in my car).


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Mine's barely audible when the car's off, and I wouldn't be able to hear it if I tried with the car on. With the sensitivity towards 1V and the level set near 0dB, it does get quite loud, not loud loud but loud enough that you'd always notice it, even with the car on and driving probably.

All I did was set sensitivity to 3V(2.9...whatever it says). This, as far as I'm aware, tells the unit the RCA inputs will vary from 0 to 3V max. This will allow the most usable HU volume range being sent into the processor. I would assume above this range, it would start clipping. For someone with a HU that outputs over 3V through the RCAs, you'd simply have to keep an eye on the volume knob and not go too high. Mine came set at 1V, not sure if by previous person or default. Set it to 3V for best results. Mute just turns it off, disabling the processor from even looking at that input for incoming data. From what chuyler said, I assume the unit is still able to indicate clipping even with this muted. I don't know. My processor is not in a place I can look at it.

Second, I went the level setting. Essentially, the lower you go, the less hiss. The downside is this limits output to the amps, so this forces you to raise the amp gains. However, I think this is the best option to minimize hiss as once you get down into something like -15dB, you pretty much can't hear it. Perhaps the unit has some internal noise that's created if this is too high. I don't know. I runs way down to -60dB, -80dB, or whatever it goes down to. I don't see why it has to stay near 0dB. Most amps can be adjusted down to 200mV, so it really doesn't matter how little voltage you output to the amp specifically unless you have separate noise issues with the RCAs to the amps. I would figure you can set these at -50dB if you really wanted and just crank up the amps accordingly. At some point if you go too low, you simply won't be able to achieve max output from the amps. This might be a good approach for setting the levels on the processor. Set your amps to 200mV, set all levels at -60dB or whatever, crank up the HU volume and start upping amp gains till you get max out the amp. It's not something I've toyed with yet, but the noise really seems to point to the Level control on the processor and doesn't seem to gain with volume gain.

So far, I've got my tweeter at around -15dB, woofer at -5dB(Extremis 8ohm  ), and the sub is seperately controlled via the HU so the processor can work with a 3-way front stage when I get my TG9 mids put in.


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

chuyler1 said:


> I mean set them at the lowest volume setting...otherwise you'll go deaf trying to set the rest of your gains. When you finally start setting gains there should be no sound coming from your speakers because you have all the inputs on the DCX set to "mute".


wait, so there's no sound when you're setting your amp gains? so how do you know when you get them to a volume appropriate for your listening? i'm confused.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

It seems the unit indicates clipping from the input reguardless. I don't know, just guessing from how chuyler worded his info, lol. It seems you can tune for clipping without needing to actually output sound. my guess anyways.


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

I can't get the clipping light on my DCX to ever come on, and I can't get rid of the hiss, at all! It's extremely loud now.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

How do you have things set up?


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

xcoldricex said:


> wait, so there's no sound when you're setting your amp gains? so how do you know when you get them to a volume appropriate for your listening? i'm confused.


*Follow the instructions!!!!* You start at mute and turn it up until the clipping light comes on. You have to turn everything to the lowest setting in order to start this process, otherwise your neighbors will shoot you or you'll end up blowing speakers before you are finished. Is this concept really that hard?

*The hiss is a combination of two things: * output gain and amplifier gain. It has absolutely nothing to do with input sensitivity. You can turn the output gain down all you want but that just means you'll be turning up the gains on your amps. The hiss will be there regardless. *HOWEVER*, The key is to have both of these settings really low as to force yourself to use as much of the input stage as possible for your everyday listening. That is why you must make use of the clipping light.

*The clipping light indicates clipping of output*. It basicially means the DCX is putting out its max voltage to your amps. If you can't get the light to turn on, start over with my instructions and remember to fix the output of your head unit at 75% and increase the sensitivity on the DCX until you see the light start to flicker. It won't stay on, it usually just flickers when the music gets intense.


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

yes, but i figured that if you start at mute and adjust the sensitivity up to before it clips - _*then *_ when you start fiddling with the amp gains that there will be sound because the sensitivities are no longer at mute? and you'd need to hear music to be able to determine a volume appropriate for your listening. that's how i understand your directions. but then you said this：



> I mean set them at the lowest volume setting...otherwise you'll go deaf trying to set the rest of your gains. When you finally start setting gains there should be no sound coming from your speakers because you have all the inputs on the DCX set to "mute".
> 
> For the next step when you increase the sensitivity by 1 click the sound should be just barely audible. It will get louder as you increase the sensitivity (or decrease it...I don't know the right terminology but I do know I was pressing the "up" button.)
> 
> As you increase the sensitivity you will eventually see the "out" light on the processor start to blink. This means you went too far and you should back off one or two steps to be safe.


sorry if i'm being dense, don't want to blow my speakers up.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

Yes, after you have set the sensitivity to just below clipping, you will have sound coming out of the DCX and you will hear the music at a fairly soft volume. The next step is to start raising gains on the amps so the music is at a reasonable level (but leave the HU volume and DCX sensitivity alone while you are setting amp gains).


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## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

chuyler1 said:


> *Follow the instructions!!!!* You start at mute and turn it up until the clipping light comes on. You have to turn everything to the lowest setting in order to start this process, otherwise your neighbors will shoot you or you'll end up blowing speakers before you are finished. Is this concept really that hard?
> 
> *The hiss is a combination of two things: * output gain and amplifier gain. It has absolutely nothing to do with input sensitivity. You can turn the output gain down all you want but that just means you'll be turning up the gains on your amps. The hiss will be there regardless. *HOWEVER*, The key is to have both of these settings really low as to force yourself to use as much of the input stage as possible for your everyday listening. That is why you must make use of the clipping light.
> 
> *The clipping light indicates clipping of output*. It basicially means the DCX is putting out its max voltage to your amps. If you can't get the light to turn on, start over with my instructions and remember to fix the output of your head unit at 75% and increase the sensitivity on the DCX until you see the light start to flicker. It won't stay on, it usually just flickers when the music gets intense.


Chuyler1, with all due respect, some of your information is erroneous. First, system noise is absolutely relevant to input sensitivity. If the sensitivity is set too high for the voltage arriving at the input of the DCX730, you *will *get more noise. Second, the clipping led on the DCX730 does NOT mean that the DCX730 is putting out maximum voltage to your amps. It means that the input signal the DCX730 is receiving is overloading it. That would be due to the sensitivity setting being too low for the input voltage the DCX730 is receiving. 

I provided some information on properly setting the DCX730 on another thread, and for the benefit of those who did not see it, or chose to ignore it, I will offer it again here, with some enhancements, to optimize your experience with this unit which is spectacular when properly used: 

I have learned a lot about the DCX 730 through trial and error, and find that there is a lot of misinformation circulated about this unit. First, it is not correct to assume that the “Sensitivity” setting should be identical to the rated output voltage of your head unit. The factory specified output voltage is generally determined using test tones at a specific frequency. The important reference for our purposes is music. My Clarion head unit is rated to output 4V. It barely puts out 1 Volt with music. I have heard from reliable sources that have tested a number of highly regarded head units that the vaunted Alpine F1 puts out around 2 volts with music. These same sources have told me that the DVD based head units put out higher voltages, generally around 4 volts. The noise/hiss that members of this forum get when using the DCX730 is likely due to the sensitivity setting on the DCX730 being set too low (too high a number) for the head unit being used. Thus, you need to turn up the volume on the head unit to get any reasonable output, which results in noise. In the vast majority of cases, the sensitivity level will be around 1.000 Volt, possibly less, and this will be the case for all output settings (front, rear and sub). Another cause of the noise/hiss problem is the volume level of the DCX 730 (the output signal being sent to the amp) being set too low. That being said, some hiss must be expected when you turn up the volume control on your head unit with the music off. That is unavoidable. If you have excessive noise, you might need to try noise filters or ground loop noise isolators. I need to use a ground loop noise isolator in my system at the inputs to the DCX730. 

The best way to set the DCX 730 (for input and output gains) is using the up/down buttons on the controller of the DCX730, do the following:

1.	Go to the “Sensitivity” function. Make sure the -12db attenuation option is not engaged. It is engaged only if your head unit is capable of putting out as much as 8 volts or more with music, which would be very rare. Then for each output you are using (front, rear and/or sub) set the sensitivity level to 1.0.
2.	Go to the "Mode" setting. Check to make sure that for each output being used (Front, Rear and Sub) that the QBass, EQ and Crossover functions are "Turned On." Otherwise the components will be playing full range without the crossover in place, and the tweeter could be damaged.
3.	Make sure that your EQ settings are all at “0 db.” 
4.	Go to the “Volume” settings on the DCX730 and set the volume for each output you are using (Front, Rear and/or Sub) to -10. My experience has shown that at this setting, and with the amp gains turned all the way down as recommended below, you will have reasonable SPL in the car and should not damage your speakers while trying to finalize your settings. 
5.	Turn the gain down on your amp(s) all the way. 
6.	Finally, turn the volume knob on the head unit to 3/4 of the full range. This will be close to the point where the head unit generally sends a clipped signal to the next item in the signal chain. Next, put on a cd that has great dynamic range. Visible through the cover of the main unit of the processor will be a green light. If the DCX730 is clipping due to the signal from your head unit (in other words, receiving too high an input voltage), a red light will blink or become solid. If the red light comes on when the head unit volume level is set at 3/4 range, turn the sensitivity setting down (which means increasing the voltage setting to a higher number) until the red light goes out. If the red light did not come on with the sensitivity level at 1.000 and the volume level at 3/4 range, then turn the volume knob of your head unit up and see if the light comes on at all. If you get to full volume and the red light does not come on, the sensitivity level is too low, and you need to increase the crossover's sensitivity (that is, reduce the voltage setting to a lower number) until the red led blinks. 
7.	Now you must turn your attention to the Volume (gains) setting on the DCX730, which is the output signal it sends to the amp(s). Most people don't have the ability to use voltmeters and oscilloscopes to set gains, so we have to rely on our ear. Because the DCX 730 allows you to mute the output for front, rear or sub, you will be able to listen to your tweeters, mids/woofers and sub separately, and be able to set the appropriate “volume” for each. We will start with the “front,” then move to the “rear” then move to the “sub” settings to determine the appropriate volume setting for each. In order to listen to just the “front,” you will need to go to the “rear” and “sub” settings and using the down button on the controller, lower the volume level all the way till you see “mute.” Using the same dynamic recording, raise the volume level for the “front” in .5 db increments and listen for any increase in distortion. If you hear more distortion, lower it till you don't. That is the proper baseline volume setting for the “front.” Write down the number you settled on because you will have to repeat this process for each of the other outputs and in doing so will have to “mute” the volume for the output that you have already checked. After you have done this process for each of the outputs you are using, set the volume level for each at the number you settled on and save the setting. 
8.	Next, using the baseline that you have set, you need to adjust the volume level for each output from the DCX730 so that you have a properly balanced sound in the car. Listen to all components together. You might have to lower the front and/or rear settings relative to the sub setting, so you get a well integrated, balanced reproduction of the music. You have to listen, and be prepared to spend a lot of time doing this, before you are satisfied. In my car my front (tweeter) is set at -5.5, my rear (mid-woofer) is set at -10, and my sub is set at -11. You might also want to try lowering the volume of one channel relative to the other to improve your soundstaging.
9.	Next, turn your attention to the gain settings on your amps. Now, if you are satisfied with the output levels you get in the car using the settings you have settled on for “Sensitivity” and “Volume,” leave your amp gains turned down. You will have no added noise to your system, which is a good thing! If you are not satisfied with the output levels, then you will need to increase the gains on your amp. While playing the same dynamic cd, turn the gain up on the amps till you hear distortion. When you do, turn the gain level back down to just below the point that you heard the distortion. Then, you are good to go. Set EQ as you deem necessary, and enjoy the music.  

Hope that helps.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

> First, system noise is absolutely relevant to input sensitivity. If the sensitivity is set too high for the voltage arriving at the input of the DCX730, you will get more noise.


I disagree, at least with my system. I originally had my DCX set at 2.1v, volume outputs around -21db for tweets, and amp gain at 3/4. With these settings I could turn my HU volume to 0 and increase and decrease "input sensitivity" on the DCX from mute to max without affecting the volume level of the "hiss". The hiss in my case was completely on the output side of the processor while the input side was virtually silent.

With the head unit on and a silent track playing I could experience a separate noise floor increase as I raised the volume on the head unit. This noise floor is separate from the problems I have been trying to alleviate and it is understandable that some head units will produce minimal noise as the volume increases....but most people are complaining about loud hiss at 0 volume and that is what I am trying to help solve.



> Second, the clipping led on the DCX730 does NOT mean that the DCX730 is putting out maximum voltage to your amps. It means that the input signal the DCX730 is receiving is overloading it. That would be due to the sensitivity setting being too low for the input voltage the DCX730 is receiving.


I disagree with this also...to some extent. The processor is digital, the sensitivity and volume level setting is all done in the digital domain. When the light comes on it means it has peaked the level it can accurately process. If you are close to the peak, you could cause the clipping light to appear by increasing the sensitivity or increasing the volume on one of the channels.

So in order to get the maximum output out of your DCX you need to find a way to reach but not exceed the clipping point when your head unit is at the volume you consider to be the loudest setting you will ever set the head unit at (typically 3/4 volume).


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Started playing with the sensitivity level. You're right, you can set it down to about 1.00V without the clip light coming on(dependent on HU).

I played around with a simple noise test, leaving HU at 0/50. For Sensitivity there isn't a noticable difference in the noise floor unless you run below 1V, somewhere around 0.8V and lower you start getting an increase of noise(done at less than clipping input volumes). On the Level adjustment, I could noice a decrease in noise down to about -25dB. From here and lower, nothing changed, but above this level all the way up to 0dB, there was a noticable, continuous increase in noise.

At the moment I have my Sensitivity set at 1.00V which lets me get to about 45/50 on my HU before the light comes on playing a normal CD, very loud for what I normally run and straining the tweeters by this point. The sensitivity for the woofer and tweeter are set to match my sub(run via the HU) but down at -23dB for the tweeter and -13dB for the woofer. The noise floor is very low.

The higher Sensitivity lets you run a lower dB Level which seems to be the best compromise.


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## chuyler1 (Apr 10, 2006)

That sounds about right...or you could keep the volumes at -12db and lower the gains on your amps for the same effect. That's what I did.


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Yeah. The gains on the amp are actually low right now but I just have an excess of power, lol. Only the tweeters have a problem with the level, but I am crossing them at 2kHz till the TG9s go in. I don't expect a ton of output from them crossed this low.

I'm suprised by the Sensitivity though. I wouldn't expect it to be set so low. I've measured my RCAs before running a test tone, and they'll output more than 3V no problem, but music is a different thing.

For the way everything's set up now, I'm plenty happy. The noise floor is low enough where it really is a non-issue.


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

chuyler1 said:


> With the head unit on and a silent track playing I could experience a separate noise floor increase as I raised the volume on the head unit. This noise floor is separate from the problems I have been trying to alleviate and it is understandable that some head units will produce minimal noise as the volume increases....but most people are complaining about loud hiss at 0 volume and that is what I am trying to help solve.QUOTE]
> 
> This is my problem as well. With the HU volume at 0, I still have hiss, but no whine or other noise. As I turn the volume on the HU up, the hiss does NOT get any louder, the music begins to drown out the hiss until it becomes inaudiable.
> 
> ...


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

MadMaxSE-L said:


> This is my problem as well. With the HU volume at 0, I still have hiss, but no whine or other noise. As I turn the volume on the HU up, the hiss does NOT get any louder, the music begins to drown out the hiss until it becomes inaudiable.
> 
> So, if I have th HU on 0, the more I turn up the sensitivity or volume on the DCX, or the more I turn up the gains on the mids amp, the louder the hiss. No noise whatsoever as far as actual audio reproduction is concerned...
> 
> I think both of these setup procedures will work, they are just for 2 different types of noise


This is my exact problem. I have a very loud hiss with the HU volume at 0, and no whine or other noise. The music just drowns it out as I turn the volume up, but the hiss really is super annoying.

Were you able to solve this noise? What procedure did you use?


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

Suneet said:


> This is my exact problem. I have a very loud hiss with the HU volume at 0, and no whine or other noise. The music just drowns it out as I turn the volume up, but the hiss really is super annoying.
> 
> Were you able to solve this noise? What procedure did you use?


I just played aroud with my HU volume, DCX sensitivity/volume, and amp gains to finally get the hiss to an acceptable level - but it's still not right.

I am going to try chuyler1's method this weekend when I get my Iridiums put in and see if I can get the rest of it all the way out. It think it seems to me like that is the way to cure my type of noise. 

The OP in this thread is what I am referring to...


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## Suneet (Jun 19, 2007)

I can't get rid of the hiss. Tried both of the above methods today. I'm so frustrated with this unit right now, I just want to sell it.


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## xcoldricex (Apr 28, 2007)

tried this today and i have no hiss anymore  THANK YOU CHULYER1!

now i just have to figure how to tune!


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## mvw2 (Oct 2, 2005)

Set your Sensitivity voltage to 1V, set your volume Level to -25. Do you still have a lot of hiss?

Have the HU volume to 0. You should be able to adjust Sensitivity voltage up and down and see a difference in hiss(louder) when you drop the voltage too far. I started seeing a gain about 0.8V or lower. Stay above whatever level that doesn't introduce more hiss. With the HU volume at 0, you shouldn't see a change in volume of hiss as you adjust through most of the range.

Second, go to your volume Level and start playing with that. Start at 0dB and move down. You should see a change in hiss immediately. At some point on your way down to -130dB or whatever it goes to, you should not be able to notice any further decrease in hiss. Make a note of this level. Mine was at about -25dB.

These two point should be what you're shooting to stay below for minimal hiss. You of course will still have to adjust to the HU and output levels plus amp gains to dial in everything, but this should give you a minimal hiss starting point as you adjust.

If there is still a lot of hiss, you might have to look into other things, for example RCA routing behind the HU. I've gotten hiss from my HU once just from how they randomly lay behind there. I've had my HU in and out over half a dozen times, and most of the time, there's zero, but once in a while a wire lays somewhere and you get some. You might be able to shift something around and get it to go away. You could bypass the processor and see if you still get hiss hooking the input RCAs directly to the amp(just leaving the HU volume at 0). At least you'll be able to see if it's coming in that way or if the processor is adding it.


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

I tried CHULYER1's method today, and it worked alot better than what I was doing before. Now; most of my hiss is gone, and I think I have my dcx dialed in for the most part. 

I know it is going to take some mroe work, though. But atleast the noise is gone.

!!!!!!!!!


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## X on 22s (Oct 26, 2007)

i used buzzdg's method and it worked perfectly. i tried his cause i've heard his setup and it sounds amazing.


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## Buzzman (Jul 26, 2007)

I'm glad you got the results I always said were attainable. By the way, you should hear my set-up now.  Can't wait till the next S. Cal. meet.


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## rufus (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm happy this post exists as I'm waiting for Directed to call me back on repairing this stupid screen. I've run Art, PC, and PCX series amps. I've even had a PAR-245, DEQ-230, AND and FRX-322. However, taking the leap with this DCX-730 is the last thing I should have done. This screen is rediculous, the hiss is rediculous. The USB button (which is meticulously HOT GLUED on) even fell off.




























Maybe I can salvage enough out of this for a SMALL down payment on an AudioControl DQX.....


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## rufus (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm happy this post exists as I'm waiting for Directed to call me back on repairing this stupid screen. I've run Art, PC, and PCX series amps. I've even had a PAR-245, DEQ-230, AND and FRX-322. However, taking the leap with this DCX-730 is the last thing I should have done. This screen is rediculous, the hiss is rediculous. The USB button (which is meticulously HOT GLUED on) even fell off.

Maybe I can salvage enough out of this for a SMALL down payment on an AudioControl DQX.....


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

rufus said:


> I'm happy this post exists as I'm waiting for Directed to call me back on repairing this stupid screen. I've run Art, PC, and PCX series amps. I've even had a PAR-245, DEQ-230, AND and FRX-322. However, taking the leap with this DCX-730 is the last thing I should have done. This screen is rediculous, the hiss is rediculous. The USB button (which is meticulously HOT GLUED on) even fell off.
> 
> Maybe I can salvage enough out of this for a SMALL down payment on an AudioControl DQX.....


Be sure and let us know what Directed says about them fixing it 

Fixing the DCX's little issues isn't that big of a deal if you're a DIYMAer; even if you have to pay a computer repair shop to replace every button on the thing, and re-solder the cable back onto the mother board to fix the screen, you will still be into it for less money than if you bought ANY similar processor with similar features.

And as has already been stated by several people in this thread, the hiss is managable...

-Matt


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## rufus (Jan 31, 2008)

They told me I'm screwed. They said "we don't have the parts to fix it even"


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## MadMaxSE-L (Oct 19, 2006)

rufus said:


> They told me I'm screwed. They said "we don't have the parts to fix it even"


Sell me yours for parts then 

not joking though...

-Matt


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## rufus (Jan 31, 2008)

haha I'd fix it before ditching it.


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