# Anyone put a system in a 07-11 Honda CRV



## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Need tips on install of: JBL MS-8, Amps (zapco/kicker), 6.5 Hybrid Audio Clarus fronts, Image Dynamics 12", etc. 

I like the car, but concerned about fitting everything. Rear trunk/stowage space includes a parcel tray so custom box will be needed to fit underneath, and no room under seats for amps so all has to fit in rear stowage area

Might go for a false floor design and reuse some trunk hinges I have from my old car. I really wanted to jeep it simple! Lol

Any advice is appreciated! Don't wanna pay a pro but might have to for the bulk of the job!


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Just got my wife a 2011 CRV. Subscribed


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## FAUEE (Jul 22, 2010)

Getting the radio out on the is a horrible pain in the arse. The plastic around the AC controls is very soft, and the clips are incredibly tight when the car is new.

I'd be concerned about everything fitting too. Especially since you've got a fairly large sub and the amps need to be in the same relatively limited space.


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Tasks: 

1) call crutchfield from a different phone number than the last 5 times I've pumped them for info and ask for their "hands on" fit notes on door speaker depth. So far I've read that theres some kind of "bump" in the metal that interferes with the speaker adapter sitting flush that must be compensated for. And I think I read somewhere that there are adapters sold for it, but they prob aren't MDF (preferable for solid mount in high wattage applications). Bottom line: If need be I'm prepared to cut the door panels and add an aftermarket grill/speaker cloth. Grill is preferable for durability. Even if I wrap a grill with cloth its low enough on door to get damaged/marred by shoes.

2) ask my friends at DIYMA if vibration of a sub is that much of a killer for electronics (amps, MS-8). I've seen so many pics of floors that incorporate amps/subs as well as amps mounted to boxes. Is vibration the killer of electronics it's rumored to be? Will that rear parcel tray that covers the stowage area obscure my sub too much? Maybe have to leave it open (hinges in middle).

3) do more research- will my zapco class ab amp run too hot under a false floor if it's run at less than 1/3 gain? Is there much difference in audio if I want to go for d class amps for their compact size and cooler operating temps? Or should I run fans?

4) do more research- how much sound deadening do I need? Should I deaden the floors? Roof (oh please say no!!!) What kinds and how much? CRV's aren't exactly quiet when it comes to road noise. Wind noise isn't bad... except that I'm adding that thule roof rack... one note: consider some mylar material under the front floorboards to keep out engine heat. Worked great on a previous ride (4.0 liter motor meant I got cooked without it on summer days)

5) can i fit a center channel in the dash? There's some kind of a pop out panel there... what could be under there??

6) I'm loving those stock tweeter pods.. if i find that dash mounted is best, I'm in like flynn. If I gotta go low on the panel near the woofer, things could get cluttered looking fast what with the two different circles on the grab handle.

7) how can I mount rear speakers but not in the atrociously close rear door location... or will the MS-8 prevail and keep me from having to have custom pods fabricated for the rear hatch hinge area? 

8) just how powerful is that alternator? Do I need a class D on my front stage to stay within reason especially when running heated seats, wipers, highbeams, etc all at once??

9) Where to mount the JBL MS-8 display? Will I need to tweak/see it much?

10) turn this into a build log... 1 down, only 9 to go...  



It's funny, I love the crv, but when the dealer proudly showed me the fold and tumble rear seats I was horrified... where in the hell am I gonna put an amps in this thang!?


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Can't answer all your questions right now because I'm supposed to be working, but the door locations are somewhat mushroom shaped, so the sheet metal interferes with most speaker baskets. The only vehicle specific adapters I have seen are thin hollow plastic and you still have to trim or bend the stock sheet metal for clearance. It is the same as all of the '06+ Civics and '07+ TSX's that are on this site.

As far as a center, that panel easily pops out and you should easily be able to fit a driver there. I am planning on a 4" coax and the dash locations seem decent for tweeters so far. Just have to get the wife's approval to mess up her car too 

For deadening, I think the floors would benefit most, because the tires are noisy and I have noticed that the headliner squeaks right by the b-pillar/OSH. Should be able to fix it without dropping the headliner though. 

Seems like a great candidate for a false floor too because the cargo area is wide and flat with a massive spare tire. It is already kind of high though, so you probably don't want to build I up too much, which might make keeping the spare troublesome. 

Have fun!


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Hmm so the stock tweeter location still fires up into the windshield. I thought there was an angle to it but thats only the cover, not the grill. 

Dare i consider a custom cut with a hole saw and some grill cloth? Hmm. 

Btw whats an osh as in "b pillar/osh"? Tanks.


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## hybridspl (May 9, 2008)

Sorry, O.S.H. = Oh **** Handle. The CRV and the Insight both seem to squeak in the same spot and Honda put out a TechNews saying to stuff some foam in there. It worked in the Insight, but I haven't had a chance to fix the CRV yet. I have been busy trying to replace my S2000 with a Fit. Daunting, to say the least!


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## JScherbain (Mar 25, 2012)

Realize I may be resurrecting a dead thread here, but I'm just curious how you made out or if anyone else has any tips for the same vehicle? Just got myself a 2011 CR-V and I'm in the research stage of putting together my first ever car audio system....


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Yup I successfully installed a system in my 2011 CR-V
It was relatively easy... and yet not lol

Heres the deal:

Front speakers are Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5's.

To fit them (you can google the specs to compare to whatever speakers you choose):

Remove the rubber magnet guard- basically a jumbo rubber band/doughnut that goes around the magnet. Why? The window just touches the magnet with the window retracted fully down. I'm talking 1 mm on drivers side and 2 mm on passenger side.

I used an MDF ring first as a template to trace a circle over the existing hole. I kept the upper 2/3rds of the factory hole, and cut the lower section from approximately the 4:00 position to the 8:00 position thus eliminating the odd metal shape along the bottom (elsewhere called "ears"). See the pic of the air body saw. These can be had for under 30 bucks at places like northern tool. I bought a cheap one years ago. I was warned to make sure I put a little air tool oil in the air fitting every now and then so it keeps running over the long term. Occasionally you gotta hit the trigger two or three times before it fires up or during a run, but overall works fine and a little easier to maneuver than a jig saw.










After removing any loose metal bits from the door cavity and spraying a little oil along the bottom of the door seam from within the cavity to keep any little bits I missed from causing rust later....

I then applied sound deadening (think regular dynamat) in little strips along the circumference of the hole. This is to seal the MDF ring to the door metal as well as to give just a little more depth as these speakers are spec'd to be 3.09" deep on a surface mount application (flange is above the hole/sheetmetal) and without that little bit of deadener the speaker didn't quite fit with just the MDF ring. (note MDF ring is just under 1"thick and note that MDF may be like when you buy a 2x4... a 2x4 never measures 2x4... that's the pre-cut, pre-waste measurement after the curf of the blade takes it's share).

The MDF rings themselves had to be routed back along the inner edge so the speakers would sit in them (the inner opening was a touch too small). Also- I notched out a spot with a file in the four spots where the speaker basket hit the MDF ring (again, just a bit too small on the inner opening). No photo of this, but on the same side as the routed edge as you would expect.










Next I drilled four small holes clear through the MDF rings to the door. Then I widened the holes in the MDF and used 4 screws to attach both speaker and MDF ring to the doors. 

Did I mention that I also took the opportunity when the speakers were out to deaden the doors with CLD tiles aka dynamat? It's a tight working space in those doors! Not much access!

I didn't bother fishing speaker wire through the factory door hosing/tubing although I did try at first with a little talcom powder to give it slip, but finally said to hell with it and fished it into the hose, then poked a hole and routed it out, then poked another hole at the other end and sent it back in. So the speaker wire is exposed on the underside of the accordion door tubing but enters and exits the car body and door via the inside of the rubber boot. If the hole was a little big I just stuffed some butyl rubber windshield "gum" in there.

The tweeters fit with a little tape around them in the facotry tweeter locations which actually do fire straight back into the cabin. The location isn't ideal as I believe the reflection off the side pillars of the windshield cause the stage to narrow a bit or otherwise create a "loci" to my ear. Ideally tweeters don't reflect off anything and certainly not too close to their origin. The reflection I'm referring to is the side of the wave, not the front as in a tweeter firing up into the windshield (also not ideal for most people's taste). So at least the stock location avoids that "washing" effect.

The door panels had to be cut on their backsides as well... the factory speakers mated well to the thin plastic band that runs around the circumfirence of the speaker opening/grill in the door panel. However with a larger speaker it wouldn't allow the door panel back on. So I cut it out with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel. Then I used a grinding bit to undercut the lower 2 "legs" that hold the door panel attachment clip cause they were hitting the MDF ring. I have to go back in and add either some clay or foam rubber weatherstripping tape around the speaker so I don't lose sound into the door- but rather that all the waves pass out through the "port" or "grill". I was also told to remove the plastic vapor barrier behind the door panel that attaches to the inner door metal and replace it with some cld tiles aka dynamat. This is from the speaker manufacturer themselves and those guys at Hybrid Audio know their stuff!! So a couple of things to do when I pop the panels off again.





















Did I mention I'm running a JBL MS-8 yet?? =) 

Ok so I put in a double din DVD player in dash- the fit kit is a bit rough, but good enough.

I mounted 2 amps and the JBL MS-8 to a board that runs just behind the rear seats. I mounted a long strip of wood on top of the metal crossmember just underneath the carpet.
To that I attached hinges which I then attached to the amp board. THe amps are on the topside and when I get around to it I'll be adding catches so that the board basically rests at a 45 degree angle or whatever it is that the seats recline to when the rear parcel shelf is in place. This way I don't wind up with clothes or plastic bags overheating against my amps- yet if I want to haul cargo I can fold the seats flat and un-catch the upper section of the board so it lays relatively flat along the floor. To protect the amps I'll cut some milk crates down to 4" high and throw em over the amps. It aint purdy but it did the job in my Element. 

The wires I ran along the door sills as you might imagine- power down the drivers side and RCA/Speaker wire down the passenger side. I cut a notch out of the cover that goes over the strut tower mount covers towards the rear corner and my wires come up that way to connect into the board. 

By the way- the 12 ft RCA was just enough to get it to the MS-8 located on the passenger side of the board. I don't recall exactly, but pretty sure it wouldn't reach much beyond as I recall turning the MS-8 around a few times and ultimately just a few inches more and I ran out of length. So if you're wiring direct to the rest of the amps beyond that first position at the passenger side, you're gonna need longer cords. (the MS-8 gets the main signal as it is a signal processor and then just a few 2-3 footers off of it to reach the rest of the amps)

I mentioned in another thread that a voltimeter showed that I was dropping into the 11 volt range on heavy bass hits... well you know what... it turns out the sub box I had picked up was twice as big as I needed for my image dynamics 12" sub and not sealed well at all. Shame on the seller who is a car stereo retailer for deeming this combo and that poorly sealed box passable!

I disassembled that cheap blaupunkt knock together box and cut it down, put in poly fill, and put some feet on it so it could fire straight down at the cargo floor and it sounds beautiful, tight, and no more crazy drops in volts! (actually may sound a little better firing up towards the cargo cover but this protects the speaker better). Chances are my cheap Kicker 400 watt sub amp (d-class) was just being driven with the gain too high- coupled with the lossy box... thus causing the voltage dips. At more reasonable listening levels the alternator holds it all together quite well.

Currently I'm running the tweeters off the MS-8 and the clarus fronts off the zapco 4 channel amp in bridged mode. I plan on trying some smoother tweeters and/or running the tweeters off 2 channels, and the clarus mids off 2 channels so I can dial down the tweeters a bit to my satisfaction that way. 

Eventually I'd like to hook up a center channel (the cover in the center of the dash pops off and reveals a decent amount of room for a speaker... although that would probably require some fabrication beyond my capabilities to seal as I doubt my bass response would be adequate... not sure if the MS-8 sends much mid to the center channel...). Also the rear speakers would probably add a little something... we'll see if I get around to it. 

Oh, and the display for the MS-8 is in the upper glove box.

Everything is crossed over on a 24/db curve and I'd have to check my notes to see what I did for crossover points. But the car sounds really great. If I pull back the sunroof shade with the glass closed, there is a definite slight loss of the center stage. If I roll down a window in front I lose a lot of midrange thump from that side- but thats to be expected as the glass divides up the door and at the same time opens up a seam along the top where the glass was!

Overall the Honda CR-V is built tight so not much in the way of rattles... although it does sound like one of the plastic vapor barriers is vibrating like a kazoo sometimes at certain frequencies! 

Sorry I didn't take more pics... but this would get you through the thick of it with those front speakers! 



















Oh and I put something else on my CR-V =) Note that this style of receiver rack had to be modified... new- it just juts straight out of the receiver hitch and has a really long tongue. So I had a muffler shop modify it so it makes a right angle bend right out of the receiver hitch making it 8-10 inches higher and a lot tighter to the bumper so the poor CR-V doesn't have so much weight leveraging so far from the back of the vehicle. Note: the motorcycle weighs well under 300 lbs!


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## trojan fan (Nov 4, 2007)

Thanks for posting pics of your CR-V build...I'm looking to buy one in the near future....what brand of dash kit did you use?


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Believe it was Metra. It came in a putty grey and black bag. 
The lower holes didn't line up with my sub-dash mounting points do I screwed in just below the plastic edge of the kit (below its holes but into the factory honda plastic sub-dash crossbrace). 

The lower edge of the inner thin trim bezel that the Metra kit comes with is slightly bowed up in the center and has nothing to do with how I installed the kit. 
It's live able. 

The head unit is a pioneer avic x930bt... However any standard double din should fit as there is plenty of room behind. There is also room below the radio and to the right (behind the glove boxes for additional modules you might buy. 

I also used a wiring adapter (I think it too was Metra... Possibly PAC audio). I think they all come with decent wiring schematics and can vouch for PAC audios tech support in another application/install. 

As for a steering wheel control interface- I know PAC is not as good as some other brand the name of which escapes me (Metra I believe). Google and you'll find out that the PAC audio steering interface is one of the more complex to program (not terribly) and also slow to respond to button pushes once installed. Just a heads up


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## JScherbain (Mar 25, 2012)

Thanks for all the details and pics, this is very informative. Can you post any pics of the deck installed and the finished door panel by any chance?

I had known depth could be an issue, espec. at the 6.5" drivers and I'm hoping to avoid modifying the steel behind the door panel by going with speakers of a little less depth. I'm capable, it's just that I would rather not hack my vehicle apart for lack of a better term. Just bought it new and its got 6 yrs / 100km of bumper to bumper warranty. Last thing I want is for Honda to have a reason 5 years from now for deciding not to cover me on surface rust or something like that....

Anyhow, how do you find the Hybrid Audio's? In an effort to keep a lower depth, I'm looking at Focal KRXS, Boston SPZ 50's, or the Hybrid Clarus 5.25's...... Course, this is just based on what I've been reading online - Of these three, I haven't heard either - but my dad has a set of Focal's that I am quite impressed with (not even sure what model....they're a few years old now and weren't the higher end line). It's unlikely around my parts that I'd even be able to hear any of these speakers installed or in a shops demo board.

A friend of mine keeps trying to get me into Massive Audio, and I'll likely go with their NX5 amp, maybe even a sub - but I'm not sure whether their speakers will do it for me or not, I've heard their flagship CK6's and my Dad's Focal's blow em out of the water (how much of that has to do with setup / fine tuning or lack there of is unknown to me).


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## JScherbain (Mar 25, 2012)

oops my bad.

I think I just realized you kept the cars factory door grill - and just modified the stuff behind the door panel that wouldn't be seen - No need for a pic here if that's the case.


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

I'll snap some more pics when I get a chance.
Yes the door panel you see in the photo showing the wiring hanging out the passenger door is hiding the 6.5 Clarus.

As for how I like em?
Hmm...
Well I've had them in two cars so far- a 2000 BMW 5 series and now the CR-V. 
In both applications:
The tweeters are a bit bright. I've seen this complaint elsewhere as well. They are meant to be mounted off axis... that is, firing not at your head or at most from down low and up toward the middle of the car. In the BMW the factory locations had them just opposite the sideview mirrors, and in the CRV they fire straight back from the dash corners. They are far less offensive there (a bit further away from the same side ear) and of course the MS-8 is integrating them pretty nicely.

The woofers lack a kind of warmth I am accustomed to. I'm not a very experienced audiophile. However I always seem to know when I walk into a gym or business if they have JBL speakers because they sound so warm compared to the shrill/thin sounding other brands.

No I'm not comparing $600 woofers to the more budget oriented average JBL's. Just trying to give the reader an idea of the difference. However they are the clearest most accurate I've ever owned or heard without them sounding harsh. Additionally the crossovers they come with cross over at a higher point than usual. I forget the reasoning for this, but you can always call Hybrid Audio with any questions... they are very patient and very informative. You may have to leave a message but they will call you back within 24-48 hours. They also offer a trade up program of some sort.

I can tell you this- if you do not properly install the Clarus woofers... meaning if you do not seperate the front and back wave (relatively seal the compartment or space you are putting them into), you will be hating the lack of midrange oomph. I had a hell of a time with that stupid BMW and quite frankly was sold a bill of goods from an online retailer. The MDF custom mounts didn't line up properly and the foam bits I was told to use to isolate the front and back waves had absolutely zero chance of doing so. Then there was the overheating, poorly engineered zapco amp causing constant alternator whine... total fiasco!! Ok, I'm over it

So if it's sonic accuracy you are after- without much muddying it up or coloring the music (even warmth), and dont mind a relatively bright tweeter or are prepared to dial it down with a really advanced EQ or by running them off their own amp channel (and then turning down the gains)- by all means buy the Clarus'. You will love their clarity. Every breath of a sultry artist, every aspect of the room's natural ambiance, etc... and yes they can play pretty hard. But if you plan on cranking your music super hard- look elsewhere. These are more finesse than punch. 

At first I was disappointed in that I wanted to roll down my windows and show off my stereo... but ya know- they lose bass response with the windows down and start to distort at obscene volumes.

If I turn the MS-8 off, they sound more "papery" or flat or lacking a certain richness. With the MS-8 on (equal to good EQ work AND in this case 24/db crossover slopes via the MS8) they come into their own providing a very accurate tonal spectrum devoid of... well... anything extraneous! They just deliver a nice clean sound and whatever the artist intended is there and then some. Overall I like them... at low or high volume, they fairly consistantly play well (as compared to speakers you need to crank to come alive). 

In the BMW without the MS-8 I did manage with a parametric/variable effect 7 band EQ to get good sound... but the MS-8 is really such a great addition to most any system The EQing is described as being the equivilant of hours upon hours of work by an experienced audiohead and no I don't mean 2 hours! But don't get me wrong the MS-8 can only do so much whereas a pro can rectify issues with the MS8 helping. Trial changes of speaker positioning for instance and then re-reading the signals- will make in seconds the adjustment necessary to optimize to a consistant test algorythm. I'd love to one day get some tweeter pods made... 

I now have a great stage although the depth does suffer some from the a-pillars being so large and ahead of where the tweeters are playing from... a fault of the CRV. But overall I'm pretty happy with this setup... I listen to a little of a bunch of genres... punk, trance, rock, jazz, classical and opera. Those are arranged in order from what sounds least to what sounds most listenable on this setup. The trance/electronic music is impressive, but can get a bit bright at times- they did however take some breaking it.. the sss-sss's were exaggerated for sssome time. Sometimes a slightly muddier or warmer sound is preferable anyway... but as far as pulling every bit out of those tracks- it does that and then some! For 50's-60's jazz recordings, the speakers are thankfully crystal clear as I often find myself wishing for a bit more clarity from those old muddy masters. 

So one more specific example- Steely Dan's "FM" (a common enough track most are familiar with)... is clear, snappy, crisp, and I sometimes find myself wishing for a little more punch-in with a more animal skin like warmth... a "rounder" sound, and roll-off. I recall hearing some Cerwin Vegas some years ago playing "FM"- and while they lacked clarity in the midrange, they had this very beautiful warm laidback sound. For all I know it could have been a tube amp or hybrid (not the speaker manufacturer... for now 

Anyway, I don't get that from the Clarus'. Is it the speaker or the recording? Is Clarus faithful to the recording and I'm listening for something that was never there except for the fault of a sloppy speaker?? 

I think that's a fair assessment

If anything these speakers are teaching me a LOT about good sound because it can really meet the demands of the MS-8. People may complain about the MS-8 being low on midrange with both Clarus' and other brands. Perhaps most people aren't used to this amount of clarity and seperation... or perhaps our tastes for not only corrections, but a curved signal is the holy grail as I seem to seek for me personally. I'm still having a good time hearing the recording as it sounded through studio monitors- and then playing with a 32band eq to lean more toward my taste.

I just learned this- the right subwoofer in the *right* box sealed correctly, with the right amount of polyfill and aiming can sound lightyears better than just some tone changing thumper. There's warmth and balance there and the transition from sub to mids is very balanced. I'm scared to re-read the values with the mic because it's beautiful!=)


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## JScherbain (Mar 25, 2012)

Very good feedback, again many thanks! If you get time for more pics you get time, if not it's all good - I know how it goes. Mostly just curious about how the deck looks in the dash but I can use my imagination for that anyway, and if I dig a bit deeper with some googling I'm sure I'll come up with some examples there too.

Not sure I like the idea of the factory tweeter locations myself, so I'll be playing with my tweeter placement when I do get around to doing mine - I'm thinking of using the sail fin placement - just inside the side-view mirrors (where they were in your BMW)..... To me that "looks" like it might be better for the sound and would also look pretty decent too.... Should still be able to achieve off-axis by aiming them to the space between the two front seats - my main logic for this is that the factory location has so many immediate sources of reflection as you also pointed out earlier, and the left one pointing straight at me or on-axis ...? Anyway I'm just thinking out loud now.... Oh, and I'll definitely be treating the doors to some dampening. Got a good line on some damplifier pro and may even fit some luxury liner in the doors as well if I can.... In fact I'll be doing the whole project in stages and I may only get as far as the acoustic treatments this summer - depending how nuts I go with that.

I'll be sure to update here and post pics when I do this stuff =)


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Snapped these two pics today...


















As you can see the gaps aren't perfect, but fine by my standards and I can be pretty particular.

Oh and I can hear the questions now,"Whats that big red knob at the end??" lol... stuck a red cap over the knob of the stereo to give me more grip. My hands aren't tiny and that pioneer knob is finished in a smooth faux chrome finish... hence the addition of my hooptie red cap...


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

More pics from the install:

Routing the power wire...









A close up of the empty factory grommet in the firewall I used...









The amp board (with a bottom hinge) behind the rear seats...









The board in the down position... (wiring to be cleaned up)









The notch in the strut tower cover that allows the wiring to exit...









The driver's side (power leads)... note that I used one 4 gage wire down the side of the car and then used a few ring terminals and a small bolt through them with thick vinyl tubing around it to prevent shorts and buried it in the same strut tower area... you may opt for a distribution block (I'm cheap...









Here's what it looks like from the front.. note the strip of wood covered in carpet (look closely) that is screwed along the car's metal crossmember... the hinge is mounted on top which permits the amp board to lay flat (other side of hinge mounted on top of the amp board). EDIT: or was that bottom?? I don't know- get your supplies together and you'll figure it out... if you do the same thing be sure to cut back the amp board sides enough to permit movement of the board through it's range of motion without hanging up on the sides of the cargo area/strut towers. 









The cargo area is now safe to use without melting anything... (still have to attach some kind of catches to hold the board up)...









One more shot with the cargo cover in place (rear half flipped up)... 









Almost done... just have to clean up wires, add amp board latches and cover the bottom of the amp board. I left enough room so the amps have a little space before the bottom of the cargo cover and a couple of inches between the faces of the amps and the rear seats in the reclined position. 

Good luck!


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## GodofRage (Apr 11, 2013)

Hello there, 

Did you try to dynamat ur trunk area yet? If so any pics? Just started doing mine and was wondering if u dynamated ur lower outer hatch garnish? Man its rattling like crazy and I'm having a hard time trying to get it off. Any recommendation about doing so. Thx!


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Hey
I didn't deaden anything but the front doors... Yet. I was doing good for a bit in terms of rattles but something in the trunk has loosened up a bit. Please post your findings and pics once you get in there!

The honda panels are fit quite tight and sometimes require a good yank to pop em free. The trouble is you could easily pull the wrong way and snap something!

A word of caution re: deadening the doors. My front drivers door I removed the plastic vapor barrier. It is a white sheet of plastic with a foam rubber mid section. I replaced it with thick CLD tiles over dome tin flashing to keep the tiles off the window regulator. I even drilled small holes into the door metal where water might sit if it ran down the tile and there was a gulley in the metal. 

And for my efforts:

Now the drivers door bass response is much better- but there is this terrible drone/harmonic. The factory "shower curtain" aka vapor barrier had that foam mid section in addition to the movement of the plastic vs an enclosure as I now have. 

As a result I cannot crank the music as loud without distorting the music with the odd metallic warble of a thin sheet metal enclosure. 

Gotta rip it back open and get some closed cell foam or some kind of harmonic busting material in there along with a more thorough layering of some more form fitting thinner CLD tiles particularly over the tin and exposed car metal.


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## GodofRage (Apr 11, 2013)

Regarding ur previous post regarding door speakers, I was able to get Rockford Fosgate R165x3 3ways in all 4 doors regardless what Crutchfield was saying. Also used the adapter they sent me with no modification what so ever. This is my setup so far. I put Dynamat behind the door speakers only and the rear hatch I covered the whole panel except that outer lower garnish which is driving me crazy with the rattling. I don't have pics of the rear hatch as of right now but I'm still working on the rear area so ill have some later.


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## GodofRage (Apr 11, 2013)

Thought I posted this pics on last reply. Guess not


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## GodofRage (Apr 11, 2013)

Rockford Fosgate R165x3 3ways


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## reynocum (Jul 18, 2016)

FAUEE said:


> Getting the radio out on the is a horrible pain in the arse. The plastic around the AC controls is very soft, and the clips are incredibly tight when the car is new...


I disagree. There are notches at side the base of both dials that let you pick the AC control below the head unit easily. I used a flat screw driver with electrical tape at the tip to avoid scratches.

That is much easier to remove than the one above the head unit especially if you do not know that the clips are horizontal. You need to pull it forward - towards you, not upward pull. You should hold it properly because you cannot pull it out when you grab it with where it is attached at the top.


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