# Peerless SLS 8" quick review



## captainobvious

Well, I finally got the Peerless SLS' after alot of debating over which midbass to go with. (Madisounds page on them can be found here: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1386 )

It took alot of work to get them installed in the doors, but they are in and currently breaking in. 
Its apparent when looking at these drivers that they are very solidly built. They have a beefy magnet and a stiff cone with a thick rubber surround.

Getting them into the doors of my Lancer required quite a bit of modification, some of which is still left to be done (door card molding and finish work). Two 3/4" baffles and some elbow grease later they fit in there though.
BEFORE:









AFTER:









My new midrange and tweeters havent yet been installed, but I still have my old tweeters connected up and run active so I figured I may as well get the new MB started on breaking in. It wouldnt sound great without a dedicated midrange, but its function over form for now.
Today I connected them to the amp and took a listen... HO-LY **** 

These 8"ers not only play with authority, but they dig DEEP. You would swear there is a 12" sub in the car. Funny thing is, they are being run right now off of 2 channels of an Arc 4150cxlr. So they are seeing maybe 80 watts a piece.
 I had them crossed at 500hz so they upperbass region sounded a bit "soft". What I mean by that is that it lacked clarity. This comes as no surprise though as these drivers are really meant to be crossed much lower. I will be starting them at about 200hz and working from there to blend them with the HAT L4 mids once they are in.

Test Conditions:
Head Unit: Clarion DRZ-9255
Amp: Arc Audio 4150cxlr
Driver mounted in doors, IB on two 3/4" birch baffles.

I tested with a few different genres of music to mix it up. 
First up was a few tracks off of a Killswitch Engage cd. They are a metal band that has some really killer guitar/bass riffs and they usually have some great kick drums to go along with. The SLS' played very well through the tracks albeit a tiny bit soft around the edges.

Next up was a low frequency extension test with a track titled "Superman" from Ginuwine's album "The Life". This track features some really deep digging bass in his R&B song. I was shocked that the drivers not only played the lowest notes, but did so with authority. I really wasnt expecting this kind of low end extension from an 8" midbass.

Next I decided to try a few rock classics and threw in the Van Halen greatest hits album. "Panama", "You really got me",and "Aint Talkin' 'Bout Love" all played smooth and fast through the SLS'.

I cant imagine what these are going to sound like after being broken in and properly powered. I have a PPI PCX-480 and a PCX-2200 to choose from for these bad boys, so they will be getting plenty of power.

They are actually making me reconsider whether or not I will even use a dedicated sub. Once I get the new mid/tweets in, I will evaluate further and give a proper review of these drivers for you guys. But right now, I can honestly say that these must be one of the best values out there right now.
Dont let it be like the Peerless Exclusive 4", get it while you actually still can. For under $60 each, they really cant be beat.


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## sonikaccord

Did you have to cut the door metal for them to fit?


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## Candisa

Hmmm, I'll be putting 2 of those in each door, giving them about 580W in total (Genesis Four Channel bridged, 1 bridge per side)... I guess midbass shouldn't be a problem after reading this 

greetz,
Isabelle


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## Oliver

two per door in a Clio ?


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## AAAAAAA

I really have to make up my mind, do I get the 8 inch verison, or the 10.
Tuff call. The 10 is like a buck more but requires more modifications.

Thanks for the quick review.


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## EricP72

Thanks alot captainobvious, now i have to sell my pioneer prs sub, just to get a pair of these before they up the price... lol. no honestly though thanks for helping me decide that those are the 8's for me. your description is exactly what i hoped to hear . 

Now in your opinion (or anyone else's) would those mate up good with a pair of 3.5 peerless 830986 mids and the alpine spx-pro tweets (tweets and mid will be run with a 2-way passive, while the 8's will run from the low pass from the 4 channel amp)? the amp i plan to use is the kenwood kac-x4r 4 channel.


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## backwoods

Candisa said:


> Hmmm, I'll be putting 2 of those in each door, giving them about 580W in total (Genesis Four Channel bridged, 1 bridge per side)... I guess midbass shouldn't be a problem after reading this
> 
> greetz,
> Isabelle


just do a single 10 on each side. Much simpler and with very similar output. Save you some money as well..


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## backwoods

captainobvious said:


> Today I connected them to the amp and took a listen... HO-LY ****
> .


 
gee, go figure, captainobvious...


lol...Yea, the sls is about the best midbass you can buy, especially for the money. Long as you don't need it more then 300hz or so, it is amazing.


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## captainobvious

sonikaccord said:


> Did you have to cut the door metal for them to fit?


Nope. I needed 2 baffles to accomodate the depth, and with 1.5" worth of birch baffle the magnet and lower basket cleared the existing mounting hole from the old 6.5" set without any major problems. The doorcard however is a different story as you can see...


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## captainobvious

Candisa said:


> Hmmm, I'll be putting 2 of those in each door, giving them about 580W in total (Genesis Four Channel bridged, 1 bridge per side)... I guess midbass shouldn't be a problem after reading this
> 
> greetz,
> Isabelle



You REALLY dont need two of them, but if you manage to squeeze them in there then mount them to some solid baffles and deaden the door up really well. OH, and dont plan on needing any subs with 4 of those in the car


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## captainobvious

manish said:


> Thanks alot captainobvious, now i have to sell my pioneer prs sub, just to get a pair of these before they up the price... lol. no honestly though thanks for helping me decide that those are the 8's for me. your description is exactly what i hoped to hear .
> 
> Now in your opinion (or anyone else's) would those mate up good with a pair of 3.5 peerless 830986 mids and the alpine spx-pro tweets (tweets and mid will be run with a 2-way passive, while the 8's will run from the low pass from the 4 channel amp)? the amp i plan to use is the kenwood kac-x4r 4 channel.


I think they would mate up okay with the 830986. I'm not sure what the lower midrange response is going to look like on them(the mids) but if they are crossed at around 200hz+ and the SLS at 250 and down or lower, you should be good to go.

What is the passive crossover setting for the midrange?


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## captainobvious

AAAAAAA said:


> I really have to make up my mind, do I get the 8 inch verison, or the 10.
> Tuff call. The 10 is like a buck more but requires more modifications.
> 
> Thanks for the quick review.



Are you planning on running a sub in your system? If so, I wouldnt think you'll need the 10"...especially if it means more modification. It probably wouldnt be worth the minimal gains.
Believe me, you'll be impressed by this $60 driver. Its quite good.


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## captainobvious

backwoods said:


> gee, go figure, captainobvious...
> 
> 
> lol...Yea, the sls is about the best midbass you can buy, especially for the money. Long as you don't need it more then 300hz or so, it is amazing.



Couldn't agree more. This is the first offering from Peerless that I've tried and I'm thoroughly impressed with their build quality and incredible value. If this speaker had the (insert high-end name brand preference here) name stamped on it, it would sell for easily double, maybe even triple the cost.

I'm glad I listened to those of you who gave them a solid recommendation.


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## benny z

curious if your opinion of whether or not you need a sub will change once you start moving.

ime with 8s that play into sub territory, it is great while you are sitting still, but once you start moving you begin to miss the impact of a dedicated sub.


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## captainobvious

benny z said:


> curious if your opinion of whether or not you need a sub will change once you start moving.
> 
> ime with 8s that play into sub territory, it is great while you are sitting still, but once you start moving you begin to miss the impact of a dedicated sub.



I did some highway driving yesterday and today, with windows down and they still had plenty of kick. 
I was quite serious when I said it sounds/feels as if I have a 12 inch sub in the trunk.

Of course cars will differ with how much road and wind noise enters the cabin once your rolling, but I'd say mine is about average as far as that goes, if that helps any.


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## Pseudonym

quick comparo!

peerless sls vs. exclusive

GO!


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## captainobvious

Pseudonym said:


> quick comparo!
> 
> peerless sls vs. exclusive
> 
> GO!



I'll have to defer that one to others with experience with the exclusives. Unfortunately I'm not one of those people :blush:

I also had been asking for a comparison of the two drivers and there was some info on them that I dug up on the site.
From what I have heard and read, the exclusives are meant more for lower midrange and some midbass while the SLS is purely focused on the bottom end (about 300hz and down) and the SLS supposedly delivers much more output down low. If I was going to run a 2 way system, I would have absolutely gone with the exclusive over the SLS as it was designed for that and the SLS was clearly not.

Hopefully others will confirm or at least voice their opinions on the matter.


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## EricP72

captainobvious said:


> I think they would mate up okay with the 830986. I'm not sure what the lower midrange response is going to look like on them(the mids) but if they are crossed at around 200hz+ and the SLS at 250 and down or lower, you should be good to go.
> 
> What is the passive crossover setting for the midrange?


 As far as the passive crossover i have yet to build one. I still haven't purchased the mids as they are on backorder. Plus after posting my question i had did a search on the Tang Band W3-1364SA so i might go with those. 

still trying to get a idea on how those sound compared to the peerless 83098 mids. but i figured around 5-6khz between the mids and the tweets. 

And then i wanted to 1st run the SLS up to around 500hz and then work down from there. now if you or anybody else has some better x-over points then by all means post your suggestions. keep in mind though the way my car is setup, both tweets and midrange will be on-axis at the top forward position of my car right next to each other. (posted pics to give you an idea)

The 8" will go in the lower factory door location.
this setup will be powered by a kenwood kac-x4r.


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## AAAAAAA

captainobvious said:


> Are you planning on running a sub in your system? If so, I wouldnt think you'll need the 10"...especially if it means more modification. It probably wouldnt be worth the minimal gains.
> Believe me, you'll be impressed by this $60 driver. Its quite good.


Interesting thanks for the tip. Also, resale on a 10inch mid would be pretty limited. I do plan on running a subs, but if I could get away with no sub then.... I might choose that route.


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## AAAAAAA

oups double post


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## captainobvious

AAAAAAA said:


> Interesting thanks for the tip. *Also, resale on a 10inch mid would be pretty limited*. I do plan on running a subs, but if I could get away with no sub then.... I might choose that route.



Good point. I didnt even consider that. But hopefully, you wont want to resell the SLS once you get them in.


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## amapro704

Picking a midbass based on resale value is kinda funny, but a consideration none the less.


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## Candisa

Yep, I'm gonna put 2 of them in each door of a Clio, after a quick view, it should fit (not fitting isn't in my dictionary  ), 1 10" per door would be harder.
It shouldn't be a problem to make some decent baffle and yes, I will use a subwoofer (2 Peerless XXLS's in a 6th order bandpass with PRed back-chamber and slot ported front chamber with about 500W on it).

I'm known as slightly insane, don't know why 

greetz,
Isabelle


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## Weightless

AAAAAAA said:


> I really have to make up my mind, do I get the 8 inch verison, or the 10.
> Tuff call. The 10 is like a buck more but requires more modifications.
> 
> Thanks for the quick review.


You gotta install the 10". I was thinking on doing the same...


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## AUr6

great review! You just make me more anxious to finally get mine installed so I can enjoy them. I'm planning to put mine in my access doors so i don't take up extra space with a sub... This review gives me hope that i'll enjoy their output...


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## el_chupo_

might check with chijioke penny, a member on here. He has a set in his altima he brought to the DFW meet a couple weeks back. impressive for sure.


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## Pseudonym

manish said:


> As far as the passive crossover i have yet to build one. I still haven't purchased the mids as they are on backorder. Plus after posting my question i had did a search on the Tang Band W3-1364SA so i might go with those.
> 
> still trying to get a idea on how those sound compared to the peerless 83098 mids. but i figured around 5-6khz between the mids and the tweets.
> 
> And then i wanted to 1st run the SLS up to around 500hz and then work down from there. now if you or anybody else has some better x-over points then by all means post your suggestions. keep in mind though the way my car is setup, both tweets and midrange will be on-axis at the top forward position of my car right next to each other. (posted pics to give you an idea)
> 
> The 8" will go in the lower factory door location.
> this setup will be powered by a kenwood kac-x4r.


id recognize those doors anywhere! man i miss my mark.


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## MaXaZoR

I own a set of these as well, that I was planning on powering by bridging my PPI PCX480...let me know how that turns out if you do it first


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## DS-21

captainobvious said:


> I had them crossed at 500hz so they upperbass region sounded a bit "soft". What I mean by that is that it lacked clarity. This comes as no surprise though as these drivers are really meant to be crossed much lower.


One rule of thumb I've kind of slid into is that whenever possible crossing a driver over about 2 octaves below where it starts to have problems is a really good idea. (Assuming no heroic measures like Cauer ellptical filters.)

That is consistent with your findings (and mine) about where to use the SLS8.


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## EricP72

Pseudonym said:


> id recognize those doors anywhere! man i miss my mark.


yeah i love mine! can't wait until the winter so i can start my cobra brake upgrade and some rims...unless i buy a M109R


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## its_bacon12

Anyone interested in orchestrating a group buy from madisound to get the discount? $12 off a pair can really add up with 5 people each ordering a pair.


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## Melodic Acoustic

I just keep hearing more and more great things about this driver. Its making my want to run a 4 way front stage for my comp car for next season. YES, FINALLY I WILL HAVE SOMETHING IN THE LANES!!!!

I would be something like this (just setting starting points):

Tweeters: Hertz ML28/Space 1 6khz and up, in custom space in dash

Midrange: Hybrid Audio L4 4.5" 300hz-6hkz or so, in custom space in dash with tweeter

Midbass: Hertz Space 8L 8" 100-300hz, in kick panels.

Bass: Peerless SLS 8" 50 -100hz, in doors

and then the sub: Either 1 IR15 or 3 Alto mobile Falstaff 10 50hz and down, out back.

Man I just get all warm and fuzzy inside thinking about it.


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## Boostedrex

Here-I-Come said:


> I just keep hearing more and more great things about this driver. Its making my want to run a 4 way front stage for my comp car for next season. YES, FINALLY I WILL HAVE SOMETHING IN THE LANES!!!!
> 
> I would be something like this (just setting starting points):
> 
> Tweeters: Hertz ML28/Space 1 6khz and up, in custom space in dash
> 
> Midrange: Hybrid Audio L4 4.5" 300hz-6hkz or so, in custom space in dash with tweeter
> 
> Midbass: Hertz Space 8L 8" 100-300hz, in kick panels.
> 
> Bass: Peerless SLS 8" 50 -100hz, in doors
> 
> and then the sub: Either 1 IR15 or 3 Alto mobile Falstaff 10 50hz and down, out back.
> 
> Man I just get all warm and fuzzy inside thinking about it.



That would be a setup/install that I would LOVE to see in person. Do it, then drive out to Cali so I can see it. ROFL!!

I need to quit reading threads about the SLS8 as it makes me want to buy some. You guys are all evil!


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## EricP72

its_bacon12 said:


> Anyone interested in orchestrating a group buy from madisound to get the discount? $12 off a pair can really add up with 5 people each ordering a pair.


I'm down for a pair as i planed to order mine on aug 15th, so if you get it together by then count me in.


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## DS-21

Here-I-Come said:


> I just keep hearing more and more great things about this driver. Its making my want to run a 4 way front stage for my comp car for next season. YES, FINALLY I WILL HAVE SOMETHING IN THE LANES!!!!
> 
> I would be something like this (just setting starting points):
> 
> Tweeters: Hertz ML28/Space 1 6khz and up, in custom space in dash
> 
> Midrange: Hybrid Audio L4 4.5" 300hz-6hkz or so, in custom space in dash with tweeter
> 
> Midbass: Hertz Space 8L 8" 100-300hz, in kick panels.
> 
> Bass: Peerless SLS 8" 50 -100hz, in doors
> 
> and then the sub: Either 1 IR15 or 3 Alto mobile Falstaff 10 50hz and down, out back.
> 
> Man I just get all warm and fuzzy inside thinking about it.


I'd be inclined to drastically simplify. 

First, no need for both the cheap 8's in the kicks and the mighty SLS8's. The SLS8 is fine to 300Hz. Hell, go with extra SLS8's in the kickpanels and you won't need to waste space in the back with subs!

Second, instead of those mids and tweets, assuming you must go with car-fi marketed gear because otherwise you'll piss off some important competition sponsor, I'd at least pick something good. Maybe, if you can fit them, the JBL C508GTi. Run as a coax, of course.


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## its_bacon12

manish said:


> I'm down for a pair as i planed to order mine on aug 15th, so if you get it together by then count me in.


Aug 15th works great for me too, thats when I get paid. Anyone else?


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## EricP72

its_bacon12 said:


> Aug 15th works great for me too, thats when I get paid. Anyone else?


so thats 2 pair as of right now. come on everybody i know at least 3 other peeps want a pair of these?!  These are the best 8's for the money and then some. so let me see with 5 pair being ordered that comes to $107.20 a pair! man i can also order my tweets and some mids all for under $200!


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## Melodic Acoustic

DS-21 said:


> I'd be inclined to drastically simplify.
> 
> First, no need for both the cheap 8's in the kicks and the mighty SLS8's. The SLS8 is fine to 300Hz. Hell, go with extra SLS8's in the kickpanels and you won't need to waste space in the back with subs!
> 
> Second, instead of those mids and tweets, assuming you must go with car-fi marketed gear because otherwise you'll piss off some important competition sponsor, I'd at least pick something good. Maybe, if you can fit them, the JBL C508GTi. Run as a coax, of course.


Dude are you saying the L4 and the ML28 tweeter are not good? And even saying the space 8L cheap.


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## EricP72

manish said:


> so thats 2 pair as of right now. come on everybody i know at least 3 other peeps want a pair of these?!  These are the best 8's for the money and then some. so let me see with 5 pair being ordered that comes to $107.20 a pair! man i can also order my tweets and some mids all for under $200!



Boostedrex...come on dive in and cop a pair of these ...you can always sell them later...


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## Melodic Acoustic

DS-21 said:


> I'd be inclined to drastically simplify.
> 
> First, no need for both the cheap 8's in the kicks and the mighty SLS8's. The SLS8 is fine to 300Hz. Hell, go with extra SLS8's in the kickpanels and you won't need to waste space in the back with subs!
> 
> Second, instead of those mids and tweets, assuming you must go with car-fi marketed gear because otherwise you'll piss off some important competition sponsor, I'd at least pick something good. Maybe, if you can fit them, the JBL C508GTi. Run as a coax, of course.



You know I went back and re-read your post in the passive or active setup thread and your statement about never hearing a great 3-way set, just a few that was listenable. I can now see where these statements come from. It can be one or two things in my book:

1. You have not listen to a the right systems or very many.

2. Your standards and outlook on SQ are far and beyond anything we here at DIYMA could comprehend or approach. And if this is the case we all must worship you, as you are the all mighty SQ Over-Lord. And your system would leave all of us mesmerized. 

But I do agree with you on one thing, simpler is sometime better. NOT always, but sometime.


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## DS-21

Here-I-Come said:


> 1. You have not listen to a the right systems or very many.


Not likely.



Here-I-Come said:


> 2. Your standards and outlook on SQ are far and beyond anything we here at DIYMA could comprehend or approach.


Standards probably not, but outlook perhaps. 



Here-I-Come said:


> And your system would leave all of us mesmerized.


Doubtful. There's no point to doing a truly mesmerizing system in a small, lightweight (relatively, at least) open roadster, after all. It'll be an eyesore, and besides someone will just steal it anyway. However, I've never heard a Miata system (within the constraints of stock speaker mounting locations - better can be done with bespoke a-pillar work, but I've never seen anyone do that right) that I'd compare favorably to my basic design in any aspect.



Here-I-Come said:


> But I do agree with you on one thing, simpler is sometime better. NOT always, but sometime.


Well-executed and elegant simplicity is always better than throwing in the kitchen sink. In any aspect of life, including mobile audio.


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## Melodic Acoustic

DS-21 said:


> Not likely.
> 
> 
> 
> Standards probably not, but outlook perhaps.
> 
> 
> 
> Doubtful. There's no point to doing a truly mesmerizing system in a small, lightweight (relatively, at least) open roadster, after all. It'll be an eyesore, and besides someone will just steal it anyway. However, I've never heard a Miata system (within the constraints of stock speaker mounting locations - better can be done with bespoke a-pillar work, but I've never seen anyone do that right) that I'd compare favorably to my basic design in any aspect.
> 
> 
> 
> Well-executed and elegant simplicity is always better than throwing in the kitchen sink. In any aspect of life, including mobile audio.


What about elegantly placing the Kitchen sink in also, instead of throwing it in?


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## DS-21

Here-I-Come said:


> What about elegantly placing the Kitchen sink in also, instead of throwing it in?




Brilliant idea!

Assuming at least that you're talking about a kitchen remodel.


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## AAAAAAA

You know at solen, this is classified as a sub, that might be why it acts like one .


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## Melodic Acoustic

AAAAAAA said:


> You know at solen, this is classified as a sub, that might be why it acts like one .


You know, I was thinking the same from everything I have seen written about this driver. With quotes like "Playing down to 20hz with easy" and don't use it above 500hz". Sounds Like a very good woofer/subwoofer to me also.


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## Melodic Acoustic

DS-21 said:


> Brilliant idea!
> 
> Assuming at least that you're talking about a kitchen remodel.


Well yes, our automobiles is our kitchen that we prepare exquisite and delightful SQ entrées and the sink is a very important part of any high-end kitchen.


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## sonikaccord

I'm in. I will deposit my check tomorrow then get this beast.


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## captainobvious

AAAAAAA said:


> You know at solen, this is classified as a sub, that might be why it acts like one .





Here-I-Come said:


> You know, I was thinking the same from everything I have seen written about this driver. With quotes like "Playing down to 20hz with easy" and don't use it above 500hz". Sounds Like a very good woofer/subwoofer to me also.


You know, I wouldn't have a big problem with it being labeled as a sub. Although it does seem to play a little quicker and more accurately at those midbass frequency's, and its just way cooler to think of it as a midbass that plays down to 20hz


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## Boostedrex

manish said:


> Boostedrex...come on dive in and cop a pair of these ...you can always sell them later...


I wish I could. But my monthly "fun budget" is getting spent on a new gi and the entry fee for the Charles Gracie Lake Tahoe Invitational. As much as I love audio, fighting takes first priority for me.

Zach


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## amapro704

Alright so you are all killng me with this... My brain now wants to drop 2 sls 8's per side (4 total) in my quarter panels vented to my trunk (IB basically) and go completely subless. I hate you, I hate you all.

Question, are we being honest here that a pair these can drop a 20hz note as good as a very nice 10" sub? I honestly don't really care about 20hz, more like 30 and I will be golden. 

What do you think. You guys could probably talk me into it and that would be 2 more pairs for the group buy 

If you want I can contact madisound and see if I can get them to chisel down the price a lil for us or help with shipping.


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## EricP72

amapro704 said:


> Alright so you are all killng me with this... My brain now wants to drop 2 sls 8's per side (4 total) in my quarter panels vented to my trunk (IB basically) and go completely subless. I hate you, I hate you all.
> 
> Question, are we being honest here that a pair these can drop a 20hz note as good as a very nice 10" sub? I honestly don't really care about 20hz, more like 30 and I will be golden.
> 
> What do you think. You guys could probably talk me into it and that would be 2 more pairs for the group buy
> 
> If you want I can contact madisound and see if I can get them to chisel down the price a lil for us or help with shipping.


i have the same issue as you. my car has a pair of 5x7 speakers in the rear side panels and i started to plan to put a pair of 8's there too. but i was worried about pulling my soundstage from the front. but i love the idea also. I think you should get a least 1 pair just to see what the hype is all about, and heck if they are as good as we both keep hearing, then we both can order another set.


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## AAAAAAA

Since these are subs, I am starting to get weary about going with the ten versions, just because the 8's are great at midbase, doesn't mean the 10's will be.


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## captainobvious

amapro704 said:


> Alright so you are all killng me with this... My brain now wants to drop 2 sls 8's per side (4 total) in my quarter panels vented to my trunk (IB basically) and go completely subless. I hate you, I hate you all.
> 
> Question, are we being honest here that a pair these can drop a 20hz note as good as a very nice 10" sub? I honestly don't really care about 20hz, more like 30 and I will be golden.
> 
> What do you think. You guys could probably talk me into it and that would be 2 more pairs for the group buy
> 
> If you want I can contact madisound and see if I can get them to chisel down the price a lil for us or help with shipping.


I will take my bass test CD out tonight when I go to hit the gym and get you a definitive answer on the 20 and 30hz questions.


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## captainobvious

AAAAAAA said:


> Since these are subs, I am starting to get weary about going with the ten versions, just because the 8's are great at midbase, doesn't mean the 10's will be.


I havent heard the 10's or seen tests on them so I cant comment.


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## XpME36M3

im looking to run 2 8" subwoofers (IB) in the rear deck in my E36 M3, would this be a good candidate to be used as subs? My other choices were Tangband 8" Subs, ID 8" Subs or Dayton Ref 8" Subs and (gasp) eD 9kV.2 (I have 2 11kV.2 and . I really dont wanna spend that much on subs nor do want an overpowering sub. just want clean sound that can blend with the frontstage i have smoothly. Music i listen to is mostly R&B, HipHop, alternative, rock and soft rock. 

As for the frontstage i am set on two setups:

ID OEM MIDS + Seas Neo Alums
Seas ER18RNX + Seas Neo alums
I like HAT gear but thats too much for now.. 

Other equipment i have:
HU - Eclipse 8053
Amps : xTant 404m
xTant 2200i


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## amapro704

if your e36 m3 is anything like mine you may want a touch more tha 2 8's to overcome road noise. damn 1:1 5th gear and wide, sticky tires on the highway 


thanks captain! you the man!


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## captainobvious

amapro704 said:


> thanks captain! you the man!


Thanks 

Ok, so heres the deal. And keep in mind that my SLS' currently have 40w RMS going to them (and they are not broken in yet)...so more power will yield much better results I'm sure.

I dusted off the old Bass Mechanik cd and used the low frequency test tracks. The SLS drivers played very well out to 40hz, after that output rolled off significantly. With more power (I plan on giving them close to 200w each) and a little EQ'ing, they should get to 30hz with good usable output. 

As usual, thats with my install and vehicle so your results may vary slightly.

I went back and played a bunch of selections from my cd book to find a really fast and deep attacking kick drum track and hit the jackpot with track 12 on Killswitch Engage's album "The End of Heartache" which is titled "Hope Is..."
The SLS's played very fast and with great impact on the quick kick drum and bass segments. I can tell they want more power and its not really fair to do the tests with only 40watts to them, but its still impressive to see what they can do with even that small amount.


Hope that helps.


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## amapro704

Thanks Captain!

If I did 4 I would have 250w rms a piece and A LOT of air so I bet they would get 30 pretty good. Decisions, decisions... Thanks for the feedback, it helps out a lot.


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## amapro704

That killswitch album does rock too BTW, I bet they are awesome now and with more power could be wicked.


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## amapro704

So you are still at around 200hz and down? How do they fair on bass guitars notes? Do they get to uh "boomy" or reverberate too much and muddy up the bass. Thats the one trade off I have always found when trying to get the kick drum and midbass impact- sometimes the bass guitar sounds too heavy...


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## captainobvious

amapro704 said:


> Thanks Captain!
> 
> If I did 4 I would have 250w rms a piece and A LOT of air so I bet they would get 30 pretty good. Decisions, decisions... Thanks for the feedback, it helps out a lot.


No problem


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## captainobvious

amapro704 said:


> So you are still at around 200hz and down? How do they fair on bass guitars notes? Do they get to uh "boomy" or reverberate too much and muddy up the bass. Thats the one trade off I have always found when trying to get the kick drum and midbass impact- sometimes the bass guitar sounds too heavy...


I have them at 500hz and down right now because I had to de-install my existing midranges to put them in the doors. (Im working on finishing up kickpods for my new mids)
So, I needed SOME sort of lower midrange action so that I could at least listen to some tunes. Its sounds not good with just a midbas and a (very ****ty) tweeter, but its better than nothing.

Anyways, from 250hz and down or lower, they are fantastic. You might be able to get away with higher than that, but thats probably the best point to cross at, or lower. I listened to a number of tracks from lots of artists (Van Halen, Bush, Silverchair, Incubus, Killswitch, Skynyrd, etc) and I was very pleased.


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## captainobvious

So I wanted to just give a brief update on this thread. About a week ago I wired up the PPI PCX-480, bridged to each SLS. This would yield 360watts conservatively at a 4ohm load, so I'm seeing at least half of that on the midbasses. They've had a solid 20+ hours worth of playtime now total, and there is an audible difference in their response. Thats likely mostly due to the increase in power, but also some loosening up due to break in as well I presume.

I was rocking to Bob Marleys Legend album today, and I must say that these midbasses are just terrific. Not only do they dig very low, they play very fast, and have great impact, and they are very very clean.

They are the real deal, and at $60 a pop, they're also quite a steal. If you can fit 8", even with a little modification...you won't be dissapointed in these speakers.

For you North East guys, I'll be at the next meet in September if you want to take a listen...


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## Melodic Acoustic

captainobvious said:


> So I wanted to just give a brief update on this thread. About a week ago I wired up the PPI PCX-480, bridged to each SLS. This would yield 360watts conservatively at a 4ohm load, so I'm seeing at least half of that on the midbasses. They've had a solid 20+ hours worth of playtime now total, and there is an audible difference in their response. Thats likely mostly due to the increase in power, but also some loosening up due to break in as well I presume.
> 
> I was rocking to Bob Marleys Legend album today, and I must say that these midbasses are just terrific. Not only do they dig very low, they play very fast, and have great impact, and they are very very clean.
> 
> They are the real deal, and at $60 a pop, they're also quite a steal. If you can fit 8", even with a little modification...you won't be dissapointed in these speakers.
> 
> For you North East guys, I'll be at the next meet in September if you want to take a listen...


Man, I guess I need to go ahead and buy a pair before the price goes up on them like the 12m (was 215 and now 285) or they are all sold out. 

Ok what can I sell to buy some, so my wife don't kill me.


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## EricP72

Here-I-Come said:


> Man, I guess I need to go ahead and buy a pair before the price goes up on them like the 12m (was 215 and now 285) or they are all sold out.
> 
> Ok what can I sell to buy some, say my wife don't kill me.


man i feel you, i can't wait until friday! i'm ordering mine as soon as my check is deposited! lol and I'm going to order my tweets (alpines) at the same time!


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## chijioke penny

el_chupo_ said:


> might check with chijioke penny, a member on here. He has a set in his altima he brought to the DFW meet a couple weeks back. impressive for sure.


Wow....me as a reference!!!!!!! Glad someone liked the way the car sounds but,on the for real.....I really, really like the sls's so much....as stated before, I'm replacing dual (in each door)aa poly 7's with the sls 8's in my tahoe...(just not sure which one's 8's or 10's ) ......


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## Pseudonym

so as an ultra cheap setup for the girlfriends car, im considering these as a sub for under her civics driver seat. how much airspace sealed would 1 or 2 of these need? if i can only fit one, how would it do off the 5th channel of a pdx-5 (nearly 400 watts).


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## kaigoss69

yes, these are wonderful. I loved them in my Jetta. Unfortunately, I sold the car and these don't fit in my new car. Therefore, I have a pair to sell. Lemme know if interested.


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## EricP72

manish said:


> man i feel you, i can't wait until friday! i'm ordering mine as soon as my check is deposited! lol and I'm going to order my tweets (alpines) at the same time!



ok just ordered mine today!!! can't wait until i get them! now to order my tweets!


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## EricP72

manish said:


> ok just ordered mine today!!! can't wait until i get them! now to order my tweets!


ok Mine came yesterday. I open them up and then hooked them up to my home receiver with no enclosure and I have to say i just played them to make sure they were functional, and i wanted to crank them even more! I could still hear bass notes as if these were installed in a box!  I can't wait until i install these!!! i might have to order a second pair and install them in the rear side panels of my car...4 of these in a car, i might not need a sub.


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## cmytaco

where can you find it for $60??????


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## Candisa

manish said:


> 4 of these in a car, i might not need a sub.


I'm putting 4 of these in my Clio, each side parallel bridged on a Genesis Four Channel, so that's about 140W per midbass, according to WinISD, you need at least a 4th order Linkwitz-Riley high pass filter set at 50Hz to not go over x-max at full power. Also the Fs of these drivers is 36.5Hz, so I wouldn't use them below 40Hz anyways.
I'm using a pair of XXLS 12" (4 ohm home version 'for PR application') subwoofers in a 6th order bandpass wall to do 60Hz and down.

My SLSes will do 60 to 250ish, then the 5.5" HDS Exclusives will take over 

greetz,
Isabelle


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## SteveLPfreak

Candisa said:


> I'm putting 4 of these in my Clio, each side parallel bridged on a Genesis Four Channel, so that's about 140W per midbass, according to WinISD, you need at least a 4th order Linkwitz-Riley high pass filter set at 50Hz to not go over x-max at full power. Also the Fs of these drivers is 36.5Hz, so I wouldn't use them below 40Hz anyways.
> I'm using a pair of XXLS 12" (4 ohm home version 'for PR application') subwoofers in a 6th order bandpass wall to do 60Hz and down.
> 
> My SLSes will do 60 to 250ish, then the 5.5" HDS Exclusives will take over
> 
> greetz,
> Isabelle


Won't you have some cancellation problems putting (2) in each door? Just asking.

I've run my SLS's in my doors without any low end filtering without any problems. The handle the low end very well.

I've driven the SLS's to the physical limits with just 45W rms @ 8 ohms. It really doesn't take much power.


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## Candisa

Why would I have cancellations? It's like putting 2 subs IB in the trunk, only with small subs and a small 'trunk'?

greetz,
Isabelle


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## SteveLPfreak

Any real need for (2) or each side? Asking 'cause it seems that only (1) on each side would be needed to mesh with the rest of your system. I know the XXLS 12 doesn't have superior output.

I've seen others use a total (4) dedicated midbass drivers but it was for output reasons only.

Not criticizing just trying to learn/understand.


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## kaigoss69

I had 4 dedicated midbass drivers in my Jetta. My 2006 330i doesn't allow me to install ANY (4" mids going to 8" subs under seats). Guess what I miss most about the Jetta! 

Really, in my mind you can never have enough midbass.


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## Candisa

It's for output purpose only 

I have to modify my doors anyways, it's not that much harder to modify it to hold 2 8" drivers instead of 1, my amp handles it, those SLSes are pretty cheap, so why not? 

About those XXLSes, I'm not putting them in a everydays enclosure, I'm builing a 6th order bandpass 'wall' (it's not right behind the front seats but it does take the complete height and width of my car) around them. Still not a very impressive output, but enough to keep up with more efficient subs at the same power 

greetz,
Isabelle


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## SteveLPfreak

Makes sense. Thanks for the responses.


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## EricP72

cmytaco said:


> where can you find it for $60??????[/QUOTE
> 
> http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_257&products_id=1386
> 
> peerless 830667 59.99 ea.


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## Mike P

After reading all the favorable reviews on the *Peerless SLS 8" subs*, I've decided to order a pair to replace my stock 8" subwoofers that sit on my rear deck of my 2008 Pontiac G8 GT. They run free air / IB kinda using the trunk as a box.

The rating according to the *Parts Express* website says that at *8 ohms* their power rating is *Power 110 watts RMS/220 watts MAX*.

Parts-Express.comeerless 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer | Peerless SLS 830667 8" Subwoofer bass mid midbass mtm coated cone 2-way tymphany09


*What would the power rating be for this sub at 4 ohms?*

The reason why I ask is I'm wondering if I should run a 2 channel amp that puts out *150 x 2 watts RMS* or *220 x 2 watts RMS*?


NEW POWER ACOUSTIK LFA2-800 800 WATT 2 CH AMPLIFIER AMP - eBay (item 350243440618 end time Jan-19-10 18:27:50 PST)

POWER ACOUSTIK LFA2-1250 2-CHANNEL 1250W CAR AMPLIFIER - eBay (item 140370412739 end time Jan-27-10 02:04:26 PST)



-> Thanks in advance..... 


...


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## Mike P

...........


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## sam3535

Mike P said:


> After reading all the favorable reviews on the *Peerless SLS 8" subs*, I've decided to order a pair to replace my stock 8" subwoofers that sit on my rear deck of my 2008 Pontiac G8 GT. They run free air / IB kinda using the trunk as a box.
> 
> The rating according to the *Parts Express* website says that at *8 ohms* their power rating is *Power 110 watts RMS/220 watts MAX*.
> 
> Parts-Express.comeerless 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer | Peerless SLS 830667 8" Subwoofer bass mid midbass mtm coated cone 2-way tymphany09
> 
> 
> *What would the power rating be for this sub at 4 ohms?*
> 
> The reason why I ask is I'm wondering if I should run a 2 channel amp that puts out *150 x 2 watts RMS* or *220 x 2 watts RMS*?
> 
> 
> NEW POWER ACOUSTIK LFA2-800 800 WATT 2 CH AMPLIFIER AMP - eBay (item 350243440618 end time Jan-19-10 18:27:50 PST)
> 
> POWER ACOUSTIK LFA2-1250 2-CHANNEL 1250W CAR AMPLIFIER - eBay (item 140370412739 end time Jan-27-10 02:04:26 PST)
> 
> 
> 
> -> Thanks in advance.....
> 
> 
> ...


The 830667 is an 8 ohm nominal driver, there is no "rating" for it at 4 ohms. If your amp does 225 x 2 at 4 ohms IN GENERAL it will put out half of that power at 8 ohms. I just swapped a set of these out of my doors and they were getting (max) 250 watts and the output was quite impressive. Go here and start reading: Basic Car Audio Electronics


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## kizz

I cant fit 8's in my doors. Anyone know how the sls6 compares? 
Im sure they may have been reviewed, but. to be honest im tired
and too lazy to look at the moment


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## kizz

I cant fit 8's in my doors. Anyone know how the sls6 compares? 
Im sure they may have been reviewed, but. to be honest im tired
and too lazy to look at
the moment. Btw, the sls8 is 49 dol at madisound. 

Sorry for the double post


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## fish

The only negative that I can recall anyone saying about the SLS 6.5 is a few people said they didn't get the output they expected from them IB. Out of those few, I think one switched to an aperiodic enclosure & enjoyed them much more.


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## EcotecRacer

Im curious what all speakers these have been compared to? I was wanting to find some Boston LF series for my doors...was going to settle on JL Audio ZR 8s...but now I could buy 4 of these for less than 2 ZRs........
My biggest issue is my amp will not give them as much power....
what if I was to use a 300hz lowpass on subchannel of amp(400x1 at 4ohm mono) and use the subsonic at say 35hz.....would this work? or how should I set these up just do stereo on them or would the mono channel be ok?


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## captainobvious

EcotecRacer said:


> Im curious what all speakers these have been compared to? I was wanting to find some Boston LF series for my doors...was going to settle on JL Audio ZR 8s...but now I could buy 4 of these for less than 2 ZRs........
> My biggest issue is my amp will not give them as much power....
> what if I was to use a 300hz lowpass on subchannel of amp(400x1 at 4ohm mono) and use the subsonic at say 35hz.....would this work? or how should I set these up just do stereo on them or would the mono channel be ok?


150-200 watts is more than enough for these.


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## fish

EcotecRacer said:


> Im curious what all speakers these have been compared to? I was wanting to find some Boston LF series for my doors...was going to settle on JL Audio ZR 8s...but now I could buy 4 of these for less than 2 ZRs........
> My biggest issue is my amp will not give them as much power....
> what if I was to use a 300hz lowpass on subchannel of amp(400x1 at 4ohm mono) and use the subsonic at say 35hz.....would this work? or how should I set these up just do stereo on them or would the mono channel be ok?


If you go with 2 per door you better spend some quality time treating them for the abuse they're about to take.
I had a pair with 300 watts going to each & it was pretty impressive. Then they each had 75-100 watts & they still moved pretty good.


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## EcotecRacer

fish said:


> If you go with 2 per door you better spend some quality time treating them for the abuse they're about to take.
> I had a pair with 300 watts going to each & it was pretty impressive. Then they each had 75-100 watts & they still moved pretty good.


I actually ended up using these in a home system for my bedroom lol
love the output doesnt overpower but lets you know the bass is present

I may buy more and do them in my sons HHR
how high could they be crossed over IB? and any recommendations from Peerless for midrange and tweeter for a 3way?


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## xr7

i have them and i thought they sucked no bass switch to a set of re xxx and they where way better. the next step will be a set of hybrid LE 8"


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## captainobvious

EcotecRacer said:


> I actually ended up using these in a home system for my bedroom lol
> love the output doesnt overpower but lets you know the bass is present
> 
> I may buy more and do them in my sons HHR
> how high could they be crossed over IB? and any recommendations from Peerless for midrange and tweeter for a 3way?


You dont want these crossed any higher than 500hz. They get nasty and peaky above that. I'd recommend 300hz and down, but 500hz max.


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## rugdnit

I am debating a switch from the Hybrid L8's. Anyone run both? Thoughts comparing the two head to head?


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## Audioguy36

I haven't owned them both but have owned the sls's and have a good friend with the L8's. I would say the L8's seemed to play high nicer and didn't sound as thick, meaning they sounded faster, but the sls's can slam and at there price I don't know if the price difference is worth it.


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## Alex92

Can't help but keep coming back to this, when mounting them in your doors from the pics it looks like you're just using the door without a "sealed enclosure" is that right? After someones suggestion and reading this I'm loving the idea of trying this someday with them bamboo tangs but some others comments have me a little worried with using the door instead of a box suggesting it'd suffer, since it'd be effectively an unsealed enclosure would low passing around 200-250 and high passing around 60-100 with a 12 handling the low lows more or less remove the issues associated with it not being in a proper enclosure?
Also, how much treatment did your doors have when you did this other than the skin of deadener visible? If i ever went ahead they'd probably be done on big ugly baffles for a while until it's tidied up running off a pdx 4.150 giving them probably around 80ish watts a piece. I guess the biggest concerns are those others have raised with using the door rather than an enclosure and i suppose how much treatment would really be required to not have the doors/trims rattle like crazy. (recently heard some alpine dd linears in a shop ute and those things were crazy on the low end rattling the doors a bit just from the 6" so wouldn't know what to expect from an 8 like that).

cheers if you're able to get back to me captain obvious


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## captainobvious

Alex92 said:


> Can't help but keep coming back to this, when mounting them in your doors from the pics it looks like you're just using the door without a "sealed enclosure" is that right? After someones suggestion and reading this I'm loving the idea of trying this someday with them bamboo tangs but some others comments have me a little worried with using the door instead of a box suggesting it'd suffer...


Correct. The Peerles SLS has a higher QTS and stiffer suspension which makes it much more suitable for infinite baffle (IB) usage. Using the SLS in a door is similar to IB in that most doors have a fairly large volume of air in them and they are not completely sealed so the driver will actually see more airspace than whats in the door. You could also use speakers in a sealed enclosure in a door, but most car doors do not have a sealed enclosure and trying to fabricate one can be very difficult.





Alex92 said:


> ...since it'd be effectively an unsealed enclosure would low passing around 200-250 and high passing around 60-100 with a 12 handling the low lows more or less remove the issues associated with it not being in a proper enclosure?


Are you referring to the SLS with this question or a Tangband driver? If the SLS, then yes that would be a great range to use them in. I'd recommend no higher than about 315hz and no lower than about 50hz. Ideally, you would want them crossed higher that 50hz as their resonant frequency (FS) is above that.




Alex92 said:


> Also, how much treatment did your doors have when you did this other than the skin of deadener visible? If i ever went ahead they'd probably be done on big ugly baffles for a while until it's tidied up running off a pdx 4.150 giving them probably around 80ish watts a piece. I guess the biggest concerns are those others have raised with using the door rather than an enclosure and i suppose how much treatment would really be required to not have the doors/trims rattle like crazy. (recently heard some alpine dd linears in a shop ute and those things were crazy on the low end rattling the doors a bit just from the 6" so wouldn't know what to expect from an 8 like that).
> 
> cheers if you're able to get back to me captain obvious


The doors had the CLD deadener you saw as well as a double wood ring/baffle made of two layers of 3/4" birch for a total of 1.5" thick. I secured it to the door with screws and lined the edges where the wood met the metal with some clear silicone sealant. No other treatments were done. Each door and construction is different. You may need to to some treatments of foam to wire bundles to keep them from touching the door, foam on the back of the plastic door panel and any other piece that might contact the inner door or "rub" together to vibrate or cause noise/rattles.


Alternatively, there are some other great options out there that will perform even better, albeit at a higher price point.

The Scanspeak 22W/4534G00 is an 8" 4ohm driver with good sensitivity, low FS (30hz), good linear excursion and low distortion, but with a lower QTS.

The JL Audio ZR8 is terrific and would be a perfect driver for doors, as would the Hybrid Audio L8v2. Both of these come at a significant price increase though. They also can be used to a higher (and lower)crossover point on both ends and both have very low distortion.

Good luck with whichever driver you choose!


-Steve


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## Alex92

Thanks for the clarification mate, no doubt better can be had for more but I'd probably end up trying the cheap end purely to get a rough idea of the sound to expect before laying more money into better drivers, one great suggestion I heard was the Rockford shallow 8" sub with the same mounting depth as the alpines currently living in my doors, I think there's about a 6db drop in sensitivity if one was to go to them though. Ahhwell woke will tell, just loving the idea and won't have any close reference to how it'd sound til a certain build here gets pulled off.


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## MF Toker

Going to resuscitate this thread. 

How have these held up to the elements in doors or vented IB installs elsewhere? Strongly considering these if I go IB instead of sealed.


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## lithium

MF Toker said:


> Going to resuscitate this thread.
> 
> How have these held up to the elements in doors or vented IB installs elsewhere? Strongly considering these if I go IB instead of sealed.


I ran a pair of these for about 8 years between two cars. In the first car w/o rain guards... Still have them actually.

Recently threw them on my DATS and the parameters came out fairly close to spec IIRC


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## MF Toker

lithium said:


> I ran a pair of these for about 8 years between two cars. In the first car w/o rain guards... Still have them actually.
> 
> Recently threw them on my DATS and the parameters came out fairly close to spec IIRC


Cool, not super worried about the pair in the doors but the under seat pair worry me a little more. Bought these vents on Amazon to use for the pair under the seats. Possibly in the doors too, build pods and vent them through the door. Who needs windows that roll down all the way.
Stainless Steel Air Vents, PartsExtra Louvered Grille Cover Vent Hood Flat Ducting Ventilation Air Vent Wall Air Outlet with Fly Screen Mesh (8inch) - - Amazon.com


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## lithium

More water in the doors than under a car. PSsound on youtube has lots of videos of under seat IB installs. Check those out for ideas.


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## dumdum

lithium said:


> More water in the doors than under a car. PSsound on youtube has lots of videos of under seat IB installs. Check those out for ideas.











These are satori wo24p-4 which are true IB through the floor, the moisture guard is approx 5-6” under neath them and them don’t suffer any adverse effects from being there, I also waterproofed them to some degree with a silicone based product, fabosil was applied seven or eight times over a day while I was cutting the car up to give them a little more resistance to moisture 👍🏼

I get solid output down to 45hz from them and then let the subs do the rest with some overlap… purple is subs, orange line is with subs playing also, phase is also shown of subs vs midbass


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