# 2013 mustang gt build log (slow motion)



## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

So this is my first true build log. This is a pretty busy time of the year for me at work, so that could slow things a bit, but I will try to make as much progress as I can throughout the build. I still don't have all of my parts for the build, namely my final amp configuration and any sound damping/absorb materials. The goal is a fairly sleek/stock look in the cabin and the best sounding system i've ever had. 

Here is the list of gear thus far:

Head unit: stock sync unit (I like the features of it, don't want to spend a ton on a dash kit that is ugly)
Processor: Alpine PXE-H600 for integration and processing
Front speakers:
-Hertz Hi-Energy tweeters and mid ranges running off the three way passive crossover. The alpine doesn't have enough channels for a three way front stage, and I trying to keep the number of channels/amps to a minimum.
-Peerless HDS 8" woofer in the front door. Will run these down to abou 35-45 hz. Will take some tuning with the 660 to decide where I like the best 
Amps: still up in the air at this point. Would like to do a small footprint 5 channel due to the location I have in the trunk. Would also like to keep the budget as low as possible. Looking at the Polk PA 5 channel, possibly two of the small pioneer 4 channels,or anything else that fits the spot location has abouut 12"x12" available in the right side of the trunk. Currently I have two zapco c2k amps from my last car, but they are both 2 channel amps, so am looking to sell those 
Subwoofers: a pair of JBL GTO1514d subs. The plan is to run them IB with the motors facing forward to minimize the amount of trunk space taken up. This is my first attempt at IB,so we will see how it works out. 
RCAs: this will be my first time making my own. I've always hated having the cables too long or too short. I got some monster cable solder style ends for free from a friend of mine and just received 100' of red Gepco EZ cable. Looking forward to this part. 
Speaker cable: ordered some of the 14 awg DIYMA cable on preorder. It was supposed to be here two days ago, but I think UPS decided to mark it delivered,but not want to come out to the house. They did that before with my wife's laptop. It did finally show up two days later, so I'm hoping for the best here. I will be running new wires into both front doors. 
Power cable is some 0/1 AwG kicker flex cable I've used in two prior cars. 

Sound damping will be addressed as I go along. I know it's a mustang gt, so I want to keep some of the raw feel, I just hate rattles. That will be the most important part to me. The front doors have sealed enclosures for the mid woofers, so I don't need to seal them off. 

I may try the tweeters and mids in a couple of different spots. I'm going to start with both in the factory 5"x7" holes that are high up and forward in the doors. Other options may be to keep the mid in the 5"x7" spot and the tweeters in the sail panel or the a pillar. 

So that is the list, the next post will be the starting pictures.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

This is the start of my baffle. I started it today. It is made of two 1/2" pieces of birch that I'm joining to make a 1" baffle for the subs.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Took the cla,ps off the baffle tonight. Won't get to do anything on it, but it was nice and solid. Could not get it to flex at all, but I will have to see what happens once I cut the holes for the subs. 

Also, the speaker wire didn't show up today. Had to call UPS, which is of course like calling the government. Basically always told to "call someone else", "you're lying we delivered it", and "it's not our problem". Will see if it shows up. Just frustrating because it is only a spool of speaker cable.


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## Dasquriel (Sep 5, 2010)

Sweet! wheres is the baffle going?

Im also doing a 2013 mustang build right now for my fiance. I too am busy so figured id post pictures when im all done.

im doing. 

2 Exile 12" xdi subs
Exile 1500.1
Stinger pro dist/fuse/wire/o gauge
Focal krx3 way or maybe hertz hi energy 3 way
Pioneer avic x950
Zapco dc 2 channel amp
audison bit 1

Goal is it to pound hard play loud and clear and accurate and in the trunk i will be firing rearwards and i still want acces to the spare tire and at least 50% of the trunk im doing a 4.8 cubic foot box... Let me know if you need any advice or want to compare notes.!


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## FairLacyZ (Jul 8, 2012)

I wish I had the patience to make my own RCAs so they all fit perfectly...


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Cool to see someone else doing something similar to what I'm doing at the same time. Speaker wire showed up. Apparently the UPS guy decided to deliver all of our stuff to my next door neighbor. Not sure when it got there because he always goes in the garage. Oh well at least I have my wire. 

Sub baffle will be going behind the fold down seats. The subs will be motor side towards the front of the car. I figure I will only lose 1.67 cu ft of trunk this way and will retain full access to the spare. 

Thinking about doing barrier strips in each kick panel for the front speakers. That way I can change the location in testing if need be.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

FairLacyZ said:


> I wish I had the patience to make my own RCAs so they all fit perfectly...


That's the part I'm most looking forward to oddly enough. I've never done it and I love clean wiring


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

After living with the Shelby/Kicker door subs for a few days, I'm not real happy with the plastic enclosures in the door panels. In quite a few frequency ranges it very much sounds like they are in plastic boxes that resonate pretty badly. Especially with 245 watts RMS to each driver. I'm gonna have to do something to reinforce the actual enclosure and also dampen the interior side of the door panel. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

iScream said:


> After living with the Shelby/Kicker door subs for a few days, I'm not real happy with the plastic enclosures in the door panels. In quite a few frequency ranges it very much sounds like they are in plastic boxes that resonate pretty badly. Especially with 245 watts RMS to each driver. I'm gonna have to do something to reinforce the actual enclosure and also dampen the interior side of the door panel.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was wondering about those. I don't plan on sending nearly that much power to the mids in those pods. I was looking at around 100 or less watts truthfully. Also it could be that you have them playing more as subs than mid basses at this point that you are hearing that resonance.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

I've got them bandpassed roughly 65Hz to 200Hz. I set the crossover points using test tones but I've tweaked them just a bit by ear since then. I'm planning to order the stuff for the $100 RTA after the holiday weekend and try to tune things up better. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Got some work done today. The subs are in the car now, and looks awesome. Still have to work on the bottom. The top and sides are sturdy. The bottom still moves and allows some light through. Will work on that some more. 

Amps still haven't been selected. Still trying to sell the old zapcos.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Just saw some carpet is stuck to the back of the sub. Will have to grab that. Seats still fold up and down with no hinderance.


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## FreddieG (Apr 30, 2011)

looks good keep it up!!! I will start my 2013 build to one day!!


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I'm still going. I have a couple of more things to arrive this week, then I should have everything I need. I'll take some pics if the finalized setup. Still trying to figure out how to do the mid and tweet.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Got my new amps. Will be running two four channel amps. I'll be running a pioneer gmd8604 bridged to the mids and a zapco z150.4 to the midrange and tweets on the front channels and bridged to the subs on the rear channels. I think I'm going to do the tweeters and mids in the factory 5x7 spot first, the may look at moving them around to see what sounds the best. Mounted a piece of wood behind the factory carpet on the right side of the trunk for the pioneer amp. Will probably be doing the zapco on metal brackets from the rear deck kind of hanging down in front of the subs.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Just ran three sets of wires into the driver door, applied some second skin damping, and some CCF while I plastidipped the wheels. Took about 3 hours for everything. The trick with the molex in the door boot is that the molex detaches from the boot and you are then free to run whatever wires you want into the door. I will come back to the door for the speaker install and to hook up the wires. They are zip tied up out of the way right now. Forgot the pictures do the CCF, but I don't think I'll be having any rattling. 

You can see in my pics my super special wire running tool. I cut the ends off two 24" zip ties, tape them together, then tape the wires on. The secret really is to lube the wires/boot. I used some garage door lube and it slid right through.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Got motivated an did the passenger door tonight. Wire ran through the boot in about 20 minutes. I got it all damped, and the CCF put on. I still have to do the speakers. Those will probably be last after the amps are wired, installed and hooked up. That way I still have music. Here's my progress for tonight along with a test fit of the 8" in the door. They fit perfectly, just need to work on a grill.


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## FreddieG (Apr 30, 2011)

very nice keep it going!!!


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Looks good. My technique on running speaker wire into the doors is to pull the rubber grommet all the way into the door, hold it straight and just stick the wire through. Since I only ran two sets of wire originally, I got to practice again over the weekend to get a third set in there.

I'm looking forward to hearing how you like those Peerless 8's in the factory enclosure. I'm pretty happy with my Dayton RS225 setup, bandpassed 70Hz - 500Hz.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

My technique is similar going through the boot. I just use the zip tie as it is a little more stiff than the speaker wire, and I don't have to worry about puncturing or break any of the wires or boot. I do pull the boot into the door so it is straight though. It literally took me less than 20 minutes from removing the boot to putting it back last night. 

I can't wait to get it going. I have to get a metal bracket fabbed for one of the ps, then I'll be ready to go.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Where should I mount my tweeter and 3" midrange? Here's a pic of what I have to work with.


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## 8675309 (Jan 8, 2007)

carpet flow on the IB is nice


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

8675309 said:


> carpet flow on the IB is nice


Thanks. I wanted it to look like it belonged there. I couldn't believe I just had that laying around and it was a perfect match.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Should I do the midrange and tweeter in the kicks, or midrange high in the door and tweeter in the sail or a pillar? I'm kinda torn. I think I could easily flush mount in the kicks.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Got some minor things done. Removed the rear speakers, put some damping on the rear deck (butyl, CCF, and mlv). Also got some new speakers for the front. Will now have some ID mini horns on the front stage with the peerless 8". Also got some L brackets made to hold the new Zapco amp.


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## iScream (Apr 1, 2013)

Man I would love to hear those subs. I thought very seriously about going with three or four 10" subs IB in my car. But I don't have the fold down rear seats like you do and the space between my trunk floor and the deck is pretty small since I have a recessed panel in there to store the top when it's down. I finally decided to just upgrade from my sealed IDQ 12 to a sealed IDMAX 12. 

Did you do anything to seal the space between the real wheel wells and your quarter panels? I'm not completely sure our cars are the same in that area. My rear speakers were in the quarter panels rather than the package tray and I know the pre-made sub enclosures are different for the convertible and coupe. 

Are you having any vibration issues with your door panels? Mine are driving me crazy with buzzing around the window switches, especially on the passenger side.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

iScream said:


> Man I would love to hear those subs. I thought very seriously about going with three or four 10" subs IB in my car. But I don't have the fold down rear seats like you do and the space between my trunk floor and the deck is pretty small since I have a recessed panel in there to store the top when it's down. I finally decided to just upgrade from my sealed IDQ 12 to a sealed IDMAX 12.


I'm pretty excited about hearing them myself. They have been in since June, but I haven't had them hooked up yet. The IDMax is a nice sub. I've never been able to try one yet, but it is definitely on my list that I want to try out. 




iScream said:


> Did you do anything to seal the space between the real wheel wells and your quarter panels? I'm not completely sure our cars are the same in that area. My rear speakers were in the quarter panels rather than the package tray and I know the pre-made sub enclosures are different for the convertible and coupe.
> 
> Are you having any vibration issues with your door panels? Mine are driving me crazy with buzzing around the window switches, especially on the passenger side.



The area where the baffle is installed is kind of a straight across spot above the strut tower in the back. There are a few holes across the top and one big hole on either side that I will pass my wires through. Most of the sealing between the front and back was done there and of course the rear deck. That deck is so solid now. I don't think I'll have any vibration issues there. The only thing I think may be an issue is the rear seatbelt mechanism. The area where your rear speakers are is solid on the coupe. There is no space between the trim panels and the quarter panels. And everything in the passenger compartment is isolated from the trunk with the exception do the fold down seats and the few holes here and there. 

I did have some vibration out of the passenger door too. Most of that got fixed when I deadened the front doors. Now the only issue is the awful front factory speakers.


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## spdy1969 (Mar 27, 2012)

Great write-up and pictures. 

I have a 2014 and was looking to do 8's in the back dash and hanging the box off the rear panel. I have a pair of 8's in a way too big box right now. 

Have any issues with the rear view mirror rattling yet? Mine actually drowns out most of my music when I turn it up a bit. Looking for ways to fix it at the moment.

Install looks great so far.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

spdy1969 said:


> Great write-up and pictures.
> 
> I have a 2014 and was looking to do 8's in the back dash and hanging the box off the rear panel. I have a pair of 8's in a way too big box right now.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliments. I'm trying to do my best to keep the log up to date it doesn't seem like there are many mustang owners who have done full systems, so I'm trying to get all of my info out there to help others. Not sure if it will help anyone though. 

I thought about doing my subs from the rear deck, but the seats didn't seal off from the front that well, and the subs would hang down so far that it would block the pass through anyway. 8" would probably work better from the deck though. 


My system isn't up and running yet. I'm concerned about rattles, so ill just have to work through things once the subs get turned on.


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## Greyhound (Jun 15, 2013)

Install looks great how is it coming now? I am playing around with the system in my 13 GT now and am getting ready todig back in and add a sub, seeing what other people have done is very helpful in giving me ideas. Your IB setup looks nice and would love to try it out but am hesitant to loose the pass through.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Greyhound said:


> Install looks great how is it coming now? I am playing around with the system in my 13 GT now and am getting ready todig back in and add a sub, seeing what other people have done is very helpful in giving me ideas. Your IB setup looks nice and would love to try it out but am hesitant to loose the pass through.


Thanks. The build has progressed a bit. I did some trunk wiring a couple of weeks ago. I found that in out of nice looking 4AWG and techflex, so I need to get that sorted to have the trunk wiring completely finished. All wires are into the cabin from the trunk now, and a main panel has been attached to the bottom of the deck with Rivnuts. I love those things. Here is a couple of photos from the afternoon I actually worked on the car.

















And look at how much trunk space the IB saved.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Some work done last weekend. I went out to changed the oil and ended up working for 8 hours or so. I got the trunk completed (all wired up), wiring run through the cabin, interior put back together, and under hood wiring done. All that is left is to mount the PXE-H660, cut the RCA cable to length, solder the RCA heads on, mount and wire up the under dash horns, install the 8" in the doors, and tune everything out.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Photos of the next step. I've never done them before, so I'm pretty excited. I'm thinking of mounting them up, and doing some sort of grill/finish cover to have grill cloth on. I don't want anything getting down in there. I've already test fit them. One was cut down before a bit (got them used obviously) so it fits, but the other needs to be cut down very slightly to fit.


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## MUGWUMP (Jan 29, 2012)

Heh. Horns. Nice. I thought about it, but I just don't have enough room for my legs.


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## MUGWUMP (Jan 29, 2012)

spdy1969 said:


> Great write-up and pictures.
> 
> I have a 2014 and was looking to do 8's in the back dash and hanging the box off the rear panel. I have a pair of 8's in a way too big box right now.
> 
> ...


 My 2012 doesn't have that issue and I can make it wobble so much it's useless. I have a GT premium, so I don't know if the auto-dimming mirror is standard.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

MUGWUMP said:


> Heh. Horns. Nice. I thought about it, but I just don't have enough room for my legs.


Yeah. I should have enough space. I drive with the seat all the way back, so I think my legs should be low enough to fit under the horns. If it doesn't work I still have my high energy three way components I can use.


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## Greyhound (Jun 15, 2013)

MUGWUMP said:


> My 2012 doesn't have that issue and I can make it wobble so much it's useless. I have a GT premium, so I don't know if the auto-dimming mirror is standard.


Mine has the auto dimming mirror, might be part of the sync package. I put a single IDMax 12 in my 13 GT with an alpine MRX110 driving it and the mirror shakes around enough that it is completely useless.


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## ssmith100 (Jun 28, 2007)

We just bought my wife a 2014. I'd like to do a small upgrade. Where exactly did you tap the signal for the processor. I've read that some tap after the factory amp and some have used the PAC piece at the radio itself. I want to replace front door speakers and add sub.

Thanks,

Shane


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

ssmith100 said:


> We just bought my wife a 2014. I'd like to do a small upgrade. Where exactly did you tap the signal for the processor. I've read that some tap after the factory amp and some have used the PAC piece at the radio itself. I want to replace front door speakers and add sub.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I picked up signal off the rear deck speakers. They receive a full range signal. What I will do is fade the stereo all the way to the rear, and leave the front 6x8s in the doors. That way when I get a call the music will be muted and the call and other sync messaging will come through the factory speakers.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

So, I finally got around to doing a bit of work. I've been working on a five week battle with bronchitis. Today I mounted the passenger side horn. It was much easier than I thought it would be. It is mounted by three points. Two on the front attached to the dash under the glovebox, and one on the rear where the motor is. This is so solid it does not move when I try to wiggle it. Next is the driver side horn, the door mids, a bit of speaker wiring in the kick panels, then hook up the processor. I'm getting so close.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

Driver side is mounted. There was an opening where the OBD plug went. I used a small piece of plastic and some CCF to fill the hole. Now there is a pretty smooth transition to the dash from the mouth of the horn. 

Working on the driver side mid now. The mid is in the door without much of a hassle. The difficult part is getting the factory trim ring to sit over the new mid. I think I have some ideas for it.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

So, all speakers are installed. Got the 8" peerless in each door. Made my own grills with grill cloth. I separates the chrome trim from the main ring, then applied the grill cloth. I think it looks so much nicer without the factory waffle grill. 

All that is left is to put the speaker wire on the subs and to install the processor under the front seat.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

So, it's playing now. I'm having some trouble getting it tuned though, have a bit of noise to hunt down, and i think the enclosures for the door mids may be too small. I'm not sure about the last part though, as it could be that i need to flip the polarity of one of the mids to get some of that lower midbass back. The subs sound amazing, and the horns are so freaking efficient. I do need to work on the EQ a bit for the horns though. 

I'm having a bit of trouble with the H660. My laptop is not recognizing that it is plugged in, but the H660 is recognizing the laptop. Maybe it is is Windows 7. I may have to try one of our old XP laptops to see if that makes a difference. 

I feel like i'm missing the impact that the 8" in the doors should be providing. It also seems like the really high frequencies are lacking a bit. I forgot i have an RTA on my phone that i can try out just to see what i'm working with though. 

The bit of noise i have is a high pitched sound in the background when the car is running. It doesn't fluctuate with throttle, so i don't know if maybe it is noise picked up through the RCA's running by the fuel pump area. Since it doesn't fluctuate with the throttle i'm pretty sure it's not ground loop. I can still cut the ground shield from the amp side of the RCA cables to see if that helps. The other problem seems to be noise floor on the horns. With the car not running i get some background "white noise" that is just always present and doesn't fluctuate. I have the gains on the horns almost all of the way down and it doesn't seem to fluctuate with that. Not sure if that is the Zapco amp or the Alpine that is producing it. 

That is pretty much it so far. I'm still working through everything. I figure it should be a bit. Oh, the review mirror rattles like crazy when the subs are cranked up.


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## vulgamore89 (Oct 27, 2013)

The door enclosures are giving me the same problems in my 08 mustang. I'm only running dayton rs180s right now, but i feel like the enclosures are smaller than i thought they were. I'm debating on cutting some holes out of it with a hole saw to let it vent into the door, but havent decided on that yet.

Got a question on the IB though. I've been really wanting to do an IB install but it just doesnt look like theres a whole lot of room back there. Do you think it would be possible to use a 15? or is 12 as big as can fit. I see from yours it looks pretty tight with the 12's. Also would you have had room to run them cone forward instead of the way you have them?


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

vulgamore89 said:


> The door enclosures are giving me the same problems in my 08 mustang. I'm only running dayton rs180s right now, but i feel like the enclosures are smaller than i thought they were. I'm debating on cutting some holes out of it with a hole saw to let it vent into the door, but havent decided on that yet.
> 
> Got a question on the IB though. I've been really wanting to do an IB install but it just doesnt look like theres a whole lot of room back there. Do you think it would be possible to use a 15? or is 12 as big as can fit. I see from yours it looks pretty tight with the 12's. Also would you have had room to run them cone forward instead of the way you have them?


I just moved, so I haven't been able to play with the door enclosures. I'm still contemplating cutting them up, or getting a more efficient mid for the door. 

As afar as the subs go, mine are 15" subs. They fit nicely in that spot and I have great output. You may have to set yours up slightly different, but you should be able to make it work.


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## vulgamore89 (Oct 27, 2013)

crx4luke said:


> I just moved, so I haven't been able to play with the door enclosures. I'm still contemplating cutting them up, or getting a more efficient mid for the door.
> 
> As afar as the subs go, mine are 15" subs. They fit nicely in that spot and I have great output. You may have to set yours up slightly different, but you should be able to make it work.


O ok. I see now, big 15 on the magnet haha could swore I read 12 somewhere. Well that's good news. Hopefully the trunk layout is relatively the same in my 08


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## mfenske (Feb 7, 2006)

I'm looking at this project and wondering about the kick panels. It looks like you could probably fit a pretty large driver in them. Nice job so far! I'm looking at a 15' 5.0 and would love the dual GTO-1514's.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I haven't looked at the inside of the 15 trunk yet, but I imagine it is going to be similar to the 13 trunk. The kick panels on my car had a lot of space in them. I think they would be able to accept a fairly large driver. From what I remeber there were some items in the kick that would need to be relocated.


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

Where you able to fix the midbass issue fix? 

I have a 14 Gt basic, but I bought premuim door panels. 

Had some issue with the dyns 172 and zr800(but zr800 had better midbass under 200hz)

I had to cut the back of the door panel pod(behind the midbass) so the drivers can have more air space. I think anything bigger then 6" drivers, won't work unless we make a hole in the back..

After I made the cut in the back to increass air flow, the dyns and the JL sounded way better and went a lot lower... 

I went back to a two way set up, for me it was easier and less amps.. And also I had a 6" midrang driver in the doors, along with the 8" midbass so it didn't sound right since they share the air space(might be in my head but I didn't feel right..)

But since you are using horns, don't think you will be using any midrange drivers in the doors, so you shouldn't have any issues with it..


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I was able to fix the lack of low end with cutting out the back of the enclosures. That made a significant difference, and I should probably work on the tuning a bit more now. I've really just been enjoying listening to it. I don't have any plans to change anything for a while, even though I think changing to a better mid would give me some good results. I did change out the suspension recently. Lowered on eibachs and Koni oranges. Will most likely leave everything as is for a while.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

I also will say that I love the horns. I love how centered the image is on the dash, and the details I'm hearing in the music is fantastic. I love how unobtrusive they are and that I don't have the narrow sound stage of speakers in the doors. If you didn't know about them you wouldn't think that the stereo had been worked on.


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

crx4luke said:


> I was able to fix the lack of low end with cutting out the back of the enclosures. That made a significant difference, and I should probably work on the tuning a bit more now. I've really just been enjoying listening to it. I don't have any plans to change anything for a while, even though I think changing to a better mid would give me some good results. I did change out the suspension recently. Lowered on eibachs and Koni oranges. Will most likely leave everything as is for a while.


I love that color, I would of pick that color but they didnt have it in stock(special order?), so i went with black, i think black and that color(maybe the green too) looks great on the mustang... I only seen a few of that color and the black colors around.. the green ones even less...

I will post a pic of mine when i wash it later today...

Any mufflers mods?


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## aztec45 (Jul 23, 2007)

aztec45 said:


> I love that color, I would of pick that color but they didnt have it in stock(special order?), so i went with black, i think black and that color(maybe the green too) looks great on the mustang... I only seen a few of that color and the black colors around.. the green ones even less...
> 
> I will post a pic of mine when i wash it later today...
> 
> Any mufflers mods?


Well i do see a mufflers sticking out now.... ford racing mufflers?


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

aztec45 said:


> Well i do see a mufflers sticking out now.... ford racing mufflers?


I went extreme on the mufflers, so it has the Pypes Pype Bomb muffler deletes. I know people complain about the drone, and it does drone, but it doesn't bother me. Just stay off 2000 rpm and I love the sound. The stereo definitely helps with such a loud exhaust. 

I picked up the car used, so I didn't order it from ford. I think as the Mustangs got later in production in 13 they made fewer Grabber Blue, but I really love the color too.


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## JohnnyOhh (Feb 19, 2015)

How did you attach the sub-woofer baffle to your car? And a second un-related question, do you think a tweeter would fit in the door sail panel? I have a 2011 GT and I am thinking about mounting a component tweeter in the sail panel.

I like your install. Thanks for sharing.


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## crx4luke (Aug 9, 2008)

JohnnyOhh said:


> How did you attach the sub-woofer baffle to your car? And a second un-related question, do you think a tweeter would fit in the door sail panel? I have a 2011 GT and I am thinking about mounting a component tweeter in the sail panel.
> 
> I like your install. Thanks for sharing.


I used rivnuts attached to that brace that runs across the trunk under the deck between the shocks. I then but some side panels made of wood attached to the baffle that go behind the back seats when you fold them down. The bottom isn't secured, it is basically suspended from the top brace and the sides. 

Tweeters would definitely fit in the sail panels, but I didn't want to deal with the asymmetrical look since the left and right look different due to the mirror switch. I was thinking of moving the switch to the window switch panel, but I got a really good deal on the horns. I had originally planned on a three way component set.


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