# Best budget SQ sub available under $100?



## PPI_GUY (Dec 20, 2007)

Lets keep the entries to 10" and larger size subs. 
Manufacturer, model number, approx. cost and why you think the sub you suggest is a good performer for the price. Closeout or "used" pricing doesn't count. If you are currently using the sub you suggest, even better.


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## Jsracing (Apr 1, 2011)

I think any of the following subs would sound good. I have the 8" version of the Infinity and do like it. It gets a bit boomy in a small enclosure, but give it the right enclosure (~0.5cf for the 8") and it sounds clean. I've not directly experienced the others, but have spoken to owners of them and they seem to really like them. Model them to see what the best enclosure is. If nothing else, they're all good contenders to start checking out.

Infinity REF1060W/1062W $60-$70
Boston Acoustics G110-4/44 $60-$70
Clarion WQ2510/D $60-$70
Clarion WF2510/D $85
JBL GT5-10/D $90
Alpine SWS-1042D $90


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## 60ndown (Feb 8, 2007)

ive been wanting to try one of these for a long time, i bet it performs very well

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8999


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

Jsracing said:


> I think any of the following subs would sound good. I have the 8" version of the Infinity and do like it. It gets a bit boomy in a small enclosure, but give it the right enclosure (~0.5cf for the 8") and it sounds clean. I've not directly experienced the others, but have spoken to owners of them and they seem to really like them. Model them to see what the best enclosure is. If nothing else, they're all good contenders to start checking out.
> 
> Infinity REF1060W/1062W $60-$70
> Boston Acoustics G110-4/44 $60-$70
> ...


One unfortunate thing about many of these subwoofers (Alpine S, Infinity Reference, etc) is that the 12 inch versions require quite a big sealed box for a perfect transient response. We're talking about 2.5 or larger cu ft. Put some of those into a more reasonable sized box, and their qtc is close to 1, which often results in steep deep bass roll-off and boomy midbass. I was considering buying most of these but refrained because of this. So, I haven't actually listened them. The 10 inch versions should not have this problem. I ended up buying RE SRX12, and it happens to have perfect 0.7 qtc in just a 1.2 cu ft box, which is perfect for my application. The sub has 18mm xmax and costs only about $100 online. I can't say much about distortion, but it sounds good and musical to me with a [email protected] crossover. Power requirement is very modest. It should run fine off an honestly rated 200watt RMS channel. It doesn't add that much output volume or clarity if crossed higher than 60-70Hz though.


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## BuickGN (May 29, 2009)

For under $100 SQ I think of Sqshoestring's build. Two cheap $40 Pyle 15s IB. It hits the deep notes, upper bass, and with very little excursion required, pretty linear.


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

How large?

Two of these

Amazon.com: Used and New: Rockford Fosgate Prime R1S412 R1 12-Inch 150 Watt Subwoofer - 4 Ohm


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## Angrywhopper (Jan 20, 2010)

Bump that budget up just a little bit more ($20-$30) and get yourself a JL Audio W1. Great SQ sub IMO.


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## tyroneshoes (Mar 21, 2006)

Im telling you, a couple of prime r1, 10s or 12s. small sealed box, sounds nice and doubles your cone space and theyre low excursion subs. Theyll surprise you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-ROCKFORD-...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5d2f1a4efc

.75 sealed each and stuffed and they sound very nice.


But if you just need a single sub


JL Audio 12W1v2-4 12" 4-ohm subwoofer | eBay

w1 for $92

TM12.2 12" Tidal Audio Subwoofer OEM by Image Dynamics | eBay

Nice image sub, sounds good or a used IDv3

Elemental Designs: Car Stereo, Home Speakers, Electronics

Its actually a very good sub at this price range

Edit late addition:

http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-Power-Serie...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cb96f81fa


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## Brian Steele (Jun 1, 2007)

ZAKOH said:


> Put some of those into a more reasonable sized box, and their qtc is close to 1, which often results in steep deep bass roll-off and boomy midbass.


That's usually a non-issue for a car audio subwoofer, particularly one that you're planning to use 60 Hz and lower. The alignment I'm using my two Infinity subs in has a measured Q somewhere between 0.9 and 1.0, and they sound pretty decent, and I use a pretty high x-over point with them too. 

Of more concern IMO is how the sound a subwoofer produces audibly changes as you turn the volume up, which will depend on other things like Xmax. If the RE's Xmax is really 18mm, then it sounds like a good buy to me. It's not surprising to see much lower Xmax ratings at that price point.


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

Alternatively look at two $50 sub, isobarically mount them (clamshell) and you can cancel 2nd order harmonics, giving you better SQ than you'll find in 1 $100 sub.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

If SQShoestring would get in here, he'd mention the Pyle 15's he's running IB that he's in love with... 

40$ SHIPPED each...


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

The Baron Groog said:


> Alternatively look at two $50 sub, isobarically mount them (clamshell) and you can cancel 2nd order harmonics, giving you better SQ than you'll find in 1 $100 sub.


This gives me an interesting and yet scary idea.... 

4x15 Isobaric clam shell IB, I don't use my back seat, so I have no reason not to try for 160$... lol... 



Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> If SQShoestring would get in here, he'd mention the Pyle 15's he's running IB that he's in love with...
> 
> 40$ SHIPPED each...



If I could get 4x15 to sound like 2x10 but be able to speak to whales and wang the **** out, I think I could live with that...


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

My PYLES! Can't beat that deal but you have to run them IB or have a huge box. They have a qts .7 and Vas 5cf, so to keep the low bass you need to be over the vas, my trunk is 1.5X vas it only loses (in the model) 1db at 20Hz.

Isobaric gives you twice the motor for the same cone, in a box it makes a huge motor sub....like you can buy but expensive (if that is what you mean). So there is really little need for isobaric today they make small box subs with huge motors already. I would have to need a really special setup to do it IB because you don't normally need a large motor for IB, actually smaller motors can work better. Patrick B actually posted that someplace and some detail why. It may not make sense, but is how it works out. A large motor works better against the dampening of a small box....IB does not have that load on the cone and is easier for the motor to move, at least at normal xmaxes. I think at larger xmax you need enough motor to move that cone that far fast enough, but those subs usually come that way.

However (maybe you mean) you could build some boxes larger than the depth say 7", large enough to fit a 15, open on one end to face into cabin....manifolds....and mount one 15 in the side and the other inverted on other side facing the motor of first sub. You would get the output from both out of the manifold. That would give roughly 7" + 7" sub depth so around 14" total. Build two of those and mount on each side of/into the backseat (or one long box if you lay them flat or into deck/etc), could even offset them if you needed to. I thought about it. Yes Vas is up to 20cf and few trunks are that big, so it will roll the bottom off some, however with some EQ it could be fixed. Output would be substantial, about 200rms per sub would shake the car no doubt, I bet even less would be impressive.
(Mount depth on these is 6.64", 7.36 overall depth, overall diam 15.52, 14.32 hole. You can pull the magnet cover off but not much difference in depth.)

I modeled it, my pair in 15cf show a .963 qtc though I suspect in a trunk it may be lower. The quads show 1.115 qtc, compared to my setup it loses 2 db at 20Hz (so -3dB from true IB), same at 30, 1dB higher at 40 and 50Hz. At 200rms each driver SPL shows 113 for pair and 120 for quads, at 40Hz. 30 rolls off a little .5 for pair and 1.5dB for quads, under 30 they roll off more. Still the pair is +/-1dB 30Hz to 100 and the quads are +/- 1.5dB for the same range, not that bad at all compared to some boxes. This quad 15 shows a lot more SPL 30-50Hz than the quad infinity 12s I ran, and they were stout but needed a lot more EQ they were rolling off by 50Hz already...15s will not, they peak at 40 and -1dB at 32Hz. I think they would WANG, but that is just me and I like my bottom to 30 or lower. Note that is winISD above, no cabin gain included.

My pair is enough for me it is not very often I let them wang it messes with my head after about one song. But to get lots of 30Hz in a car how else you do it? I need my trunk, this is so ideal. I can even hear a 25Hz tone. Most of the time they are loafing, hardly moving, in low distortion mode, but making nice 30Hz and up with little effort.

I paid $47 each and thought that was a deal, $40 each is giving them away. You just need to think does this fit my needs? Some people no, others like me--hell yes. Really I'm surprised nobody has tried them and posted, but lot of people don't want the install hassle it takes some fitting to get a baffle in there right or they want massive SPL that IB subs are not the best for....even though if you push the Q up they will get loud at 40+Hz like my 12s did....but IMO no good for the SQ I want, which is somewhat flat by ear down to 30 at least, for music.

I have searched about running half the subs inverted to reduce distortion, they do it in home systems, don't think it matters in a car is the consensus I found. However if you manifold mount them that way you save a lot of room, sub only sticks out one side, it can be ideal for that reason alone.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

There it is... lol...

Really what I meant was running 4x15 in clamshell ISO IB, no boxes.. 

Would this quell the 2nd order harmonics, or would i be in the very same boat, with more drivers.. (that I wouldn't need, this is just a thought)


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## Hillbilly SQ (Jan 26, 2007)

Up the budget just a little and you could get a Fi x series sub. They work well in rediculously small boxes and have no boom whatsoever to the sound. I have the x10 in .5 sealed and it's great for sq but when I want to pound the pavement I'm SOL. Sounds like the definition of "sq" to me. They say it can work in as little as .25 sealed

EDIT: You had some great sq subs but sold them to me


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## Bluliner (May 16, 2011)

I haven't been on this board very long, however there are some pretty clever people here. 

For under $100, I'd almost be willing to bet $$$ that someone here has built a transmission line for a single/pair of cheap-ass 6" woofers that just gets silly.


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> There it is... lol...
> 
> Really what I meant was running 4x15 in clamshell ISO IB, no boxes..
> 
> Would this quell the 2nd order harmonics, or would i be in the very same boat, with more drivers.. (that I wouldn't need, this is just a thought)


Not sure what you mean, I mean build manifolds like this guy did for HT but mount one sub normal and one inverted...not both inverted like he did. You would get the benefit of cancelling harmonics, if it is detectable. I would make them shorter if possible, keep the sub close to the opening if you can.
Infinite Baffle Subwoofer Project

Some version of that is the only way I figured I could fit quad 15s. This is a variation of the H frame like used here it also cancels vibration with the subs running opposed like this. Of course with a car you can place the baffle sealed front to rear into the cabin of the car instead of open mount they are using here.
http://www.mfk-projects.com/theatre_woofer.htm


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## The Baron Groog (Mar 15, 2010)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> There it is... lol...
> 
> Really what I meant was running 4x15 in clamshell ISO IB, no boxes..
> 
> Would this quell the 2nd order harmonics, or would i be in the very same boat, with more drivers.. (that I wouldn't need, this is just a thought)


Yup, that would quell the 2nd order harmonics


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## HiVi Guy (Jan 16, 2010)

I second the Image Dynamics built Tidal Audio REF-TM12.2. They are about $80


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

sqshoestring said:


> Not sure what you mean, I mean build manifolds like this guy did for HT but mount one sub normal and one inverted...not both inverted like he did. You would get the benefit of cancelling harmonics, if it is detectable. I would make them shorter if possible, keep the sub close to the opening if you can.
> Infinite Baffle Subwoofer Project
> 
> Some version of that is the only way I figured I could fit quad 15s. This is a variation of the H frame like used here it also cancels vibration with the subs running opposed like this. Of course with a car you can place the baffle sealed front to rear into the cabin of the car instead of open mount they are using here.
> Theatre woofer


I meant this... 



The Baron Groog said:


> Alternatively look at two $50 sub, isobarically mount them (clamshell) and you can cancel 2nd order harmonics, giving you better SQ than you'll find in 1 $100 sub.


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## Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX (Oct 24, 2007)

Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX said:


> There it is... lol...
> 
> Really what I meant was running 4x15 in clamshell ISO IB, no boxes..
> 
> Would this quell the 2nd order harmonics, or would i be in the very same boat, with more drivers.. (that I wouldn't need, this is just a thought)





The Baron Groog said:


> Yup, that would quell the 2nd order harmonics



You've given me a very wikkid idea... :laugh:

and opened a big'ole










Maybe a little IB SQfrikkinL...?


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

sqshoestring said:


> My PYLES!.


What is the model number for the Pyles.


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## PorkCereal (Nov 24, 2009)

Huckleberry Sound said:


> What is the model number for the Pyles.


Revives 6 year old thread 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Lol, long time for subs. I'm still banging on them, they work perfect. The car itself is another story. PLWB155 ($40 at the time). I don't think they sell them anymore but you can get the similar one that is a poly cone, these ones were paper cone I prefer. If the Fs and Qts are close they should work. Mind you I only run 500RMS on the pair IB, I tried 800 and they start to tighten up at max output. But really 500 is great match for my 125x4 on highs actually I can have heavy bass with the highs at max clean output. I think some used the PL1590BL with similar results. These are cheaper subs, you can't drop 1Kw on one and expect it to perform. That is why I used pair, I didn't want massive output just good clean car shake a little once in a while and they delivered. I imagine they would take more power in a box. They hit 30hz great, 25 is audible on tones. However they were rated 1Kw max, so that would be 500 rms, cut that in half for IB use and you have 250rms each, exactly what I use and works great. I was surprised that came out right. Its more of a SQ daily driver setup, I just like 30Hz and like it to thunder once in a while, and it performs. If you want good bottom and do not need to shake the car much, one should work well.


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Thank you!


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## sqshoestring (Jun 19, 2007)

Really you can look at any entry level sub for IB, if they have the right tune they will sound good. A good sub just has more capability, you get one if you want it to pound hard...you need more xmax and power handling. But for IB a cheaper sub can work great because you don't need a lot of power anyway, its the xmax you run out of because the cone moves much easier with no enclosure to slow it. IB maybe you can use a 15 instead of a boxed 10, you have way more cone and output because of that size increase. You get more bottom because a 15 will easily reach lower than a similar 10. If you compare 15 in a box to IB you are just changing the tuning, but if you go larger IB you reap the benefits. When I put pair of 15s in I was only able to tolerate a single 12 boxed or maybe pair of 10s and I didn't like the boxes, either one took up half the usable room in the trunk more or less and I need my trunk. The 15s are far more capable unless you spent big money on the boxed subs and ran more power. Just saying if you expect a single 15 IB to put out like a boxed 15 you are not going to gain, but pair of 15s should take up much less room than single boxed 15....that is the way you need to think about IB output and how low it can get, though 15s are so great IB because they can naturally get low....but 10s/12s can also work IB all depends on what you like and can fit.

So what 15, just look for high qts like .7 or close, and a Fs that is low like 20hz. That means you will have a peak in output (.7) and it will be at a low frequency of 20hz. In reality a sub always drops off at low frequency, so this levels things out by boosting the low lows, and in reality you tend to get good output down to the the Fs area which means under 20 it will roll off. But if your Fs were 40Hz you would have massive output at 40-50 it would boom like crazy, good SPL and terrible SQ. So say you find a JL or Alpine or pyle or whatever your pleasure with those specs, it should be tuned pretty good for IB unless you get down to VAS. If you get small area near Vas it will start tuning the sub higher and can screw it up badly unless you like spl boom. Usually only an issue in tiny trunks or multiple installs. Most of the time if you model it and you are 1.5X vas per driver or more you don't lose much. Just model a 100cf sealed and model your trunk volume plus 10-20% and compare them to see what effect it has.

What about the few people that say .7 qts is too high, you will have too much low Hz output or bad FR. I say wtf is too much low output when it comes to subs? So take a sub out then, turn down the gain, get rid of your subs if they have too much output lol because then subs must not be for you. You can never have too much bottom, its the easiest to get rid of and hardest to make more. The many IB installs I have run/installed I have never seen EQ down at 30Hz, never ever. I would love to have that problem, it would be like winning the lottery too often. More likely it is someone trying to sell subs with lower qts.

How about output, well xmax is going to determine how far you can push them. Cheap subs don't have tons of it, so if you are overbuilt with pair of 15s I don't really need for example, I don't need to worry about xmax. In fact low xmax is low distortion, so not pushing them hard works great. You will pay more for larger xmax because its harder to build a sub like that. It is usually cheaper to add another sub in IB than to get a better sub, to get more output. I only run 500rms these will handle well for fun really, I only crank them up hard once in a while to vent. I had 350rms on them for a while and it worked great for SQ and still got pretty loud. I guess the 500rms is so they can be all they can be, if needed.

What about power, generally you can run half rated power IB, maybe more with a really good high power sub that has features to limit xmax at high power. You can run more power if you use a SS filter, but you limit output at low frequency as well, so you will lose that 20-30Hz range for example depending on what you set it to. You may or may not care.

High power subs. One issue is lot of good subs are made for a smaller box, they will have a lower qts. This means they will not have as much lower frequency output naturally. This can be good if you stuff a bunch of big subs in a small trunk, when you get close to Vas, because low qts subs don't care if the enclosure is smaller that is what they are for. If not, you may need to EQ the bottom up some depending on the FR of your car. You will get more output with more xmax, it just wont tune as well the FR will be off. You will need more power to push them harder and they tend to be less efficient on top of that, in general, but they will work IB. This is where specialty IB subs can work nicer like AE and Fi and others that have more xmax but still have the low Fs/high qts combo like you find more often in cheaper subs. For example a cheap pick might be the Lanzar DCT15D from what I see.


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## smgreen20 (Oct 13, 2006)

PorkCereal said:


> Revives 6 year old thread
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


And there's something wrong with that?

Man....people ***** about not looking things up and starting new threads, but when some one does, they catch hell. Can't win.......


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## PPI_GUY (Dec 20, 2007)

Well then, let's revive this thread again! I was the original OP and wasn't necessarily looking for recommendations for myself. Just starting a discussion about "hidden gems" so to speak, at a very friendly price point. 
Some very good info was posted over the time this thread has been alive. Let's keep it going with some 2018 suggestions.


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## EricP72 (Mar 23, 2008)

I like the topic, hoping to see more suggestions


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## brumledb (Feb 2, 2015)

First sub that came to my mind is the Image Dynamics ID 10. It list on most sites for $129 but I am sure you could get it for ~$100 if you shop around a little bit. I am currently using the 8'" with no complaints and I know someone using the 15" version and he seems to be pleased as well.


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## asianinvasion21 (Sep 24, 2012)

I run the JL 10W0v3-4 in a small fiberglass box and I have no complaints. Cost me $99 and I believe shipping was free.


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## Iamsecond (Jan 3, 2017)

A second on the jl10w0. I grabbed a couple just to see what they would do and they are now in my sons' jeep and I put one in a ported box in my daughters' car and they are both really tight and clean when needed and can boom as well. The price point doesn't hurt for a great sub. 100 or less.


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## rob feature (Nov 15, 2015)

I have an RE Rex8 that treated me well until I replaced it with a SD3 (wanted moar output - and got it). I assume the 10 would be similar to the 8. Build quality is nice for the price & it sounded pretty good too in a sealed enclosure. I'm going to build a t-line for the 8 at some point. 

Never used one, but the Sundown LCS 12 can be had for $85 shipped.


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