# How much power to your Hybrid Audio Clarus?



## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

Hi,

I am wondering for those of you who own the HAT Clarus speakers how much power you are giving them? How do they sound, do you have plenty of headroom and mid bass?

I am purchasing a set and the information you provide will help me greatly.

Thanks!


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## JoshT (May 20, 2010)

Will you be running them passively or Active ?


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

Passive.


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## bkjay (Jul 7, 2009)

I have a set and I love them. I have the first batch were the tweeter is a little hot, but the current set has more cut on the tweets. I have plenty of eq so for me it was not a problem.Also I must tell you my tweets are on the dash so they are going to be hotter than a door install. Far as power I have 175 rms per side at 63hz @ 24db. doors well damped and they handle it just fine. If you listen to allot of rap or bass heavy music maybe a higher xover point is better. I think you will like them just give them a chance to break in.


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## f150fx4 (Jan 5, 2009)

I've had my Clarus comps for a couple of years now. Great speakers. I get a smile everytime I get in the car. 

I'm running 100W per side, passive. My HPF is 80. The midbass is very strong. The can play lower, but that's what the sub is for. The tweets are off axis next to the mids. I have them -3db on the crossovers. Very clear, but warm. 

I plan on moving these to my Civic and will run active w/ 100W to each mid and tweet. 

Definitely let them break in. It took about a month for them to open up. At first, it was "I paid that much for this?". Tinny and thin sounding. As they broke in, it got deeper and in a month, I was floored by how much midbass they had. the balance across the full range is great. I have no eq other than the -3db on the tweets. The highs affect these old ears these days. 

You'll love them. Good luck with them. 

George


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## [email protected] (Apr 15, 2011)

I have my Clarus C5s running passive with 120 watts each from a Mosconi one 120.4 with the highpass at 80 Hz and the tweeters at -3Db the mids are in stock locations but mounted on sealed MDF baffles in the doors and the tweeters are in the sail panels!
I would totally seal the doors if possible to get the best from them.
I'm considering getting a set of Legatia crossovers and biamping them using all the chanels from my 120.4 so that I have a bit
More headroom and control though.

[email protected]


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

Thanks for the comments guys.

My amp is 120x4 and I was wondering if I would have sufficient headroom with the Clarus. It sounds as though 120 watts will be sufficient.

Thanks for your help.


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

When I was passive I had 75w per side. Now that I'm active the midbass' get a bridged 230w each. Tweeters are on a 75w channel each. 

It's all relative though. The speakers aren't getting that much power necessarily. The gain on the tweeter channels is really low. And the midbass amp's gains are less than half.


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## BowDown (Sep 24, 2009)




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## [email protected] (Apr 15, 2011)

Well I bought a set of Legatia 2x crossovers so think I'm going to biamp them from my Mosconi 120.4 so the mids will be getting 120 each and the tweeters will be running of the other 2 channels but I will be very careful with the gains!

[email protected] 

Oh yeah and the crossovers are a thing
Of beauty


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## IIGQ4U (Aug 8, 2011)

My Clarus speakers shipped today.


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

I'm still selling my Clarus C6 crossovers if anyone sees this thread and wants to save some bucks.


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## IBcivic (Jan 6, 2009)

BowDown said:


>


Caps are so .....80s


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Great info, 6.5 owners chime in with more info. i'm thinking of going with this set in the near future. thanks


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

Mine were 6.5 btw


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## Machine7 (Nov 17, 2010)

Bkjay: you said the first batches of clarus' included tweeters that ran hot. Do you have any info on when they changed? 
I wish I could tell y'all what kind if wattage I had but my first amp was poorly engineered that went thermal well under it's limits. 
Does anyone think running active (ms-8) I can get away with 80w per ch without it degrading performance much?


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

Machine7 said:


> Bkjay: you said the first batches of clarus' included tweeters that ran hot. Do you have any info on when they changed?
> I wish I could tell y'all what kind if wattage I had but my first amp was poorly engineered that went thermal well under it's limits.
> Does anyone think running active (ms-8) I can get away with 80w per ch without it degrading performance much?


Well I ran 6.5s passive with 75w pet channel. Probably closer to 85 since the amp was underrated. Unless ur trying to play music for the other side of the street it was enough that I didn't feel like I needed more. I do get better punch and lower extension out of them now that I have over 200w available to each mid if needed. Just try it with what you have first. I think you'll be happy


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

220x2 on just the mids running active? You must watch your volume knob. 150x4 @ 4 ohm is more than enough power to run active? I'll be doing a 2 way active + sub. The amp i had in mind was the JL HD600/4 since i've hear many great things and i'll benefeit from its small size and the whole R.I.B feature is pretty cool.


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## Salami (Oct 10, 2007)

amitaF said:


> Caps are so .....80s


Yeah but 1.21 gigawatts should be enough power, eh?


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## redgst97 (Mar 12, 2008)

I have the Clarus 6.5 set running passive in my daily driver. I have an Arc Audio KS125.2 mini bridged to each side: about ~250 per side.

Had them like that for close to 3 years now, and am still as happy as I was the first day.

I took Polk Audio SR speakers out in favor of the Clarus.
\


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

redgst97 said:


> I have the Clarus 6.5 set running passive in my daily driver. I have an Arc Audio KS125.2 mini bridged to each side: about ~250 per side.
> 
> Had them like that for close to 3 years now, and am still as happy as I was the first day.
> 
> ...



What xover setting you using for that amount of power? I had actually planned on going passive with a jl audio hd600/4 bridged than going 2 way active to give it a shot since many claim that 2 way active is better than a passive setup.


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## DR34M 7H3473R (Feb 25, 2008)

I've had my C61-2's for about a month. They're sealed well to the doors, running passive and high passed at 63hz taking 150w per side. Sound great. I tried taking 'em down to 50hz but they struggled a bit, perhaps they will handle it once broken in some more. GREAT speakers!


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

DR34M 7H3473R said:


> I've had my C61-2's for about a month. They're sealed well to the doors, running passive and high passed at 63hz taking 150w per side. Sound great. I tried taking 'em down to 50hz but they struggled a bit, perhaps they will handle it once broken in some more. GREAT speakers!



Very nice, that's where i plan to cross mine at. I am running a subwoofer so 60-70hz is low enough for me *i think*


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## redgst97 (Mar 12, 2008)

Crossover is at 63Hz.


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## DR34M 7H3473R (Feb 25, 2008)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> Very nice, that's where i plan to cross mine at. I am running a subwoofer so 60-70hz is low enough for me *i think*


I have a 12 crossed at 63 and it blends perfectly with the C61-2's. Sounds like the bass is coming from right in front of me.


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## Stück (Jul 3, 2011)

I previously ran a set of Clarus C61's with a JL 450/4 active, ran this way for ~2 yrs. The speakers are still like new, although the amp vaporized all the power fets and was the subject of a 6 month long debacle with JL "fixing" it. Long story short I'll never buy JL again.

150RMS to the midbass and 75RMS to the tweeters. Crossed the midbass at 60hz IIRC.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

For the guys running a passive setu. where do you have the tweeter placed and is the xover at -3db or 0 db?


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## DR34M 7H3473R (Feb 25, 2008)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> For the guys running a passive setu. where do you have the tweeter placed and is the xover at -3db or 0 db?


Mine are in the sail panels and I have them set at 0 db. I also have my drivers side tweet down one db through my hu speaker gain setting for better balance between driver and passenger sides.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Ah ok, I'm just getting an idea on other setups. i need to make time and install my clarus set. I'm going to try to get this done before the end of the weekend. i only have a 80x2 amp to power them at the moment, but i'll be buying an HD600/4 and run passive bridged giving them 170x2 ish than go 2 way active.


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## [email protected] (Apr 15, 2011)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> For the guys running a passive setu. where do you have the tweeter placed and is the xover at -3db or 0 db?


I'm running passive with tweeters on the sail panels tweeters on -3db and still find them a little bright have tried moving them more off axis which improved things a little

[email protected]


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

Whats so magic abou 63hz?


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

TAMUmpower said:


> Whats so magic abou 63hz?



i'm no expert, but i think it has to do with the subwoofer since they can't play as high. that being said the mid will pick up after that. is this why,anyone?


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## hottcakes (Jul 14, 2010)

i believe its an octave/up-front bass/sub-blending sort of thing. seems like a widely used number.


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

hottcakes said:


> i believe its an octave/up-front bass/sub-blending sort of thing. seems like a widely used number.


Yea I see it used all the freakin time and I feel like I missed some memo about why its so dang magical or something. I was using 60hz for the longest time for my mids but then realized that it had to sound much better at 63hz since thats what everyone else was doing... seriously... I changed it :laugh:


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## KyleMDunn (Jan 27, 2009)

I am using an MS-8 and a JL HD900/5 - so I'm running the Clarus active @ 100x4. No issues to date.


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## DR34M 7H3473R (Feb 25, 2008)

TAMUmpower said:


> Yea I see it used all the freakin time and I feel like I missed some memo about why its so dang magical or something. I was using 60hz for the longest time for my mids but then realized that it had to sound much better at 63hz since thats what everyone else was doing... seriously... I changed it :laugh:


My reason for using 63hz is that my head unit does 50hz, 63, and 80. I'd love it if my Clarus's played well down to 50 but at the moment, not broken in yet. So, I settled at 63.


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## sheltonlp (Dec 7, 2011)

Not to hijack your thread but my question is similar...
I'm debating between running mine active on my JL HD 900/5 or just bridging them passive...what would you guys recommend to run them active (besides the expense of the MS-8). I've always run my components passively but I've never had any as nice as the Clarus' set. FYI I'm using the Pioneer z130BT in a Toyota Tundra and going without a sub until the SI BM-MKIV comes out or until I can't wait any longer and I settle on the Alpine SWR T12 sub.

I'm also trying to decide between the factory dash location and the sail panels for the tweeter...ideas?


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## ZAKOH (Nov 26, 2010)

sheltonlp said:


> Not to hijack your thread but my question is similar...
> I'm debating between running mine active on my JL HD 900/5 or just bridging them passive...what would you guys recommend to run them active (besides the expense of the MS-8).



I am running my HAT Imagine "active" with woofers using nothing for the low pass crossover and the tweeter with an inline capacitor rated for 2.2uF. Supposedly, this is basically the setup of HAT's passives, except that now I am bi-amping them. I assume something like this would work with Clarus and Legatia speakers as well, if not necessarily with the same capacitor value. My goal was to be able to use time correction between tweeters and woofers separately from each other, since my head unit has time correction on all six channels. If my stereo didn't have this feature, I wouldn't run them this way without a good processor like MS-8 or Alpine Imprint.


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## BlackFx4InTn (Apr 11, 2009)

I got my clarus c61-2's last week along with the L2x biampable crossover. I will be running 2x Arc Audio FD2200 on them with 100 going to each tweet and mid. I will be starting my build this week but I'm not sure if I want to fiberglass some pods in the kicks for the mids, or just put them in the stock door location. The tweeters will be in spheres coming off the a pillars.


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## alligatorman (Sep 7, 2010)

KS300.4 bridge at 350w rms per side @80 hz.

I dont turn it up all the way *hides*


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## Kidd1077 (Nov 23, 2009)

I am thinking about bridging my alpine pdx 100.4 to send 200 watts to each side. I will be running passive. Would this be too much power?

Currently I have 2 of the 100 watt channels going to 5.25's (precision power 355cs) in the rear doors and am not getting much out of them. So I was thinking since I am not getting much out of them anyway, run the rear 5.25's off the headunit, and bridge 200 watts to each pair of Clarus's in the front. Would this be pushing it alittle too much?


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## TAMUmpower (Jan 29, 2010)

Kidd1077 said:


> I am thinking about bridging my alpine pdx 100.4 to send 200 watts to each side. I will be running passive. Would this be too much power?
> 
> Currently I have 2 of the 100 watt channels going to 5.25's (precision power 355cs) in the rear doors and am not getting much out of them. So I was thinking since I am not getting much out of them anyway, run the rear 5.25's off the headunit, and bridge 200 watts to each pair of Clarus's in the front. Would this be pushing it alittle too much?


No. Keep this in mind. The speakers play a certain volume with xxx amount of power. I could hook a million watt amp up to them and if I listened to music at the same volume the same amount of power would be being used. 

A 200 watt amp doesn't send 200 watts at all times. Extra power is just potential power you have available. I mean I have a tweeter on a 75watt channel and the most the tweeter ever pulls is maybe 5 watts at max volume. It's all about setting the levels low enough to start with. Ur only risk is accidental overload if you first hook them up with all ur levels maxed....THEN you would send too much power.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Kidd1077 said:


> I am thinking about bridging my alpine pdx 100.4 to send 200 watts to each side. I will be running passive. Would this be too much power?
> 
> Currently I have 2 of the 100 watt channels going to 5.25's (precision power 355cs) in the rear doors and am not getting much out of them. So I was thinking since I am not getting much out of them anyway, run the rear 5.25's off the headunit, and bridge 200 watts to each pair of Clarus's in the front. Would this be pushing it alittle too much?


You should be fine aslong as you're sending clean power. As you increase powwer, your HPF might have to go alil higher since you can bottom out the mids easier with more power. As the guy above me posted, just start with less power and work your way up and watch your volume knob and use some common sense and you'll be fine. I'm throwing roughly 150 w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm to my 6 1/2 Clarus (Passive) and they're doing fine. Also, with 200 w rms x 2, be careful if you like to listen to bass tracks such as bass mechanic and such... Goodluck. Let us know your thoughts of the extra power.


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## Kidd1077 (Nov 23, 2009)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> You should be fine aslong as you're sending clean power. As you increase powwer, your HPF might have to go alil higher since you can bottom out the mids easier with more power. As the guy above me posted, just start with less power and work your way up and watch your volume knob and use some common sense and you'll be fine. I'm throwing roughly 150 w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm to my 6 1/2 Clarus (Passive) and they're doing fine. Also, with 200 w rms x 2, be careful if you like to listen to bass tracks such as bass mechanic and such... Goodluck. Let us know your thoughts of the extra power.


Since you own a set, what would you recommend? Bridge and run the 5 1/4 ppi rears of HU, or run 100w to all four speakers? I do listen to music pretty loud, but not bass mechanic stuff. Mainly hip hop and rap. If Im going to spend 500$ on speakers, I definitely don't want to blow them. haha just a cheap college student.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Kidd1077 said:


> Since you own a set, what would you recommend? Bridge and run the 5 1/4 ppi rears of HU, or run 100w to all four speakers? I do listen to music pretty loud, but not bass mechanic stuff. Mainly hip hop and rap. If Im going to spend 500$ on speakers, I definitely don't want to blow them. haha just a cheap college student.


If I were you, I'd feed them about 150 w rms x 2 to the Clarus and let the rear speakers be powered off the head unit. Either way, you're in the front and that is where the music is at, the rear speakers are only going to bring the sound to the back if you have them amped. I always fader the head unit to the front a bit for the same reason.It's not just about power, make sure that you choose a good xover point and they should do fine. I'm assuming you want more mid bass out of them, do you have your doors sealed/treated? If not, start there and you may have some noticeable improvements. I have access to a DD-1, so I squeezed out the most clean power out of my amp.


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## Kidd1077 (Nov 23, 2009)

adrenalinejunkie said:


> If I were you, I'd feed them about 150 w rms x 2 to the Clarus and let the rear speakers be powered off the head unit. Either way, you're in the front and that is where the music is at, the rear speakers are only going to bring the sound to the back if you have them amped. I always fader the head unit to the front a bit for the same reason.It's not just about power, make sure that you choose a good xover point and they should do fine. I'm assuming you want more mid bass out of them, do you have your doors sealed/treated? If not, start there and you may have some noticeable improvements. I have access to a DD-1, so I squeezed out the most clean power out of my amp.


Yes, doors are already sealed. Thank you for your help. I may contact you during install for further questions. Again, appreciate it.


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## adrenalinejunkie (Oct 17, 2010)

Kidd1077 said:


> Yes, doors are already sealed. Thank you for your help. I may contact you during install for further questions. Again, appreciate it.



Sure, if you download the manual. You'll find great info on it.


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## alligatorman (Sep 7, 2010)

You wont be short of midbass with the clarus. Like the man said bridge the amp for the clarus and run the rear speakers off the deck. You might want to put some bass blockers on the rears depending if you can control the crossover or not on the HU.

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2


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