# 2007 Tundra DC Build



## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Howdy Folks!

I just acquired a 2007 Tundra DC SR5. Nice truck. But, Man does that stereo suck!

Time for another build. I've still got most of the gear that I pulled outta my 2001 Chevy. It'll get me started.

_EDIT: I will keep this first post updated with current and EX equipment. _

*Source*
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997 _Yes, Its a dinosaur_
Joying JY-TQ167N4G with Optical Out
Helix Composer 

*DSP*
Dayton DSP-408 _Had to power with 120v inverter & too few EQ Bands_
Mosconi 6to8 V8 _ There is no specific reason for no longer using this DSP. It is a great unit. I just got a really good deal on a Helix and couldn't pass on it._
Helix DSP.3

*Amps*
JL Slash 300/4 ( Mids & Highs ) _Too large to fit behind rear seats_
JL Slash 1000/1 ( Sub ) _Too large to fit behind rear seats_
JL XD400/4 ( Mids & Highs )
JL Slash 300/2 ( Mid-Basses )
JL XD600/1 ( Subs )

*Tweeter*
Dayton Audio ND28F-6
AudioFrog GB10's

*Midrange*
Dayton Audio RS100-4 _Very Harsh above 2K_
Dayton RS100P-4 _Much smoother and no horrendous breakup_
Audiofrog GB25

*Midbass*
Dayton Audio RS225-4  _Did NOT work well IB_
Audio Development W800NEO _Sounds great and easily fits in stock location_

*Sub*
Dayton RSS210HF-4 Under Glovebox _Sounded GREAT! But, too obtrusive into footwell_
3 x Dayton RSS210HO Under Rear Seats
Stereo Integrity BM MKv


So, there is the info. Lets get started on the fun part!
I was off today and got to get started on it. I'm happy with the progress and how its looking so far.
Pics in Attached


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

More work to be done tomorrow.

I just found out my RS100P's are delayed in shipping. I had to order from Amazon since Parts Express is sold outta EVERYTHING. Lemme know what ya'll think. I'll be back when I have some more done.

Thanks for looking!
-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

More Pics


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## ram_hp (Jun 7, 2020)

I really need to learn how to do this. It's very much what i want to do in my own truck for the dash.
How did you chose the speaker angle?


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

ram_hp said:


> really need to learn how to do this. It's very much what i want to do in my own truck for the dash.
> How did you chose the speaker angle?


It is the maximum angle I could get. If you look close at the pods, there is a flat on the top of the speaker ring. That is because the top of them basically touch the windshield.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Well, today was definitely not the "fun" part. Although I don't know may people who think working with fiberglass is "fun". I added the pocket for magnet clearance to the pods and put a layer of chop mat on the inside and a layer of glass cloth on the outside. I am waiting for that to dry so I can slather some body filler on them.

My RS100P-4's got lost in the mail. That was that sellers only set. I guess i'm gonna have to eBay them.

Anyway, here are today's photos.

Sheba is wondering why I just put something down in her spot. She is VERY confused

The popsicle sticks are a "model" of the RS100. To check for clearance and such

Yes, my paper tube is made out of a Dayton spec sheet... it was the only piece of paper that was handy.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

More Photos


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Got some Bondo on 'em. Yes, they still fit after the magnet clearance pocket. Albeit, it is a VERY tight fit getting them into the hole. I have to flex the dash a little bit. One they are in place though there is no pressure on them and they rest about 1/8" below the windshield. I was originally going to use some 1/4" neoprene foam to isolate them from the dash plastic. I think I'm going to want to get some thinner neoprene. I bet I've got some 1/16" around here somewhere. I only had to trim minor amounts of plastic from the dash. Trimmed areas are underneath the factory grill/ New Pod location. I had to trim about a quarter inch from the aft side of the original speaker cutout. Nothing is destroyed. Factory speakers can be re-installed. But, the drivers side is missing one of its mounting holes. The factory mount point is still there. I had to cut half of it away. The original speaker "tab" still has a bit of a ledge to sit on if need be. Anyway, I spent 20 minutes with some high tack tape pulling fiberglass off of my hands. Fun stuff. Every time I get the urge to do this I think that it will, for some reason, be easier than the last time...

My RS100P-4's that I ordered are officially lost in the mail. I got a refund and found a set of RS100-4 on Meniscus Audio. I wanted the paper cone. But, I guess we will see how the aluminum cone sounds.

My G/F is being very patient with me on this project. She hasn't complained once about the dust or smells I keep bringing into the apartment. 

Anyone have any advice for a tweet? I have done builds with the RST28F and LOVED it. Sadly, I can't find a good spot for such a large tweet. And I don't think I want a 4"+ Tweet hanging off my sail panel...
Has anyone used the ND28F-6?
Or how about the AN25F-4?
If you didn't read my original post, My front sound stage is 3-way and I'm going to have RS225-4's in the doors.

By the way, I AM a Dayton fanboy. I am wanting to stay with Dayton. But, it is not a must. I just cant spend a fortune on this build. I have many other obligations to take care of before I can justify spending much.

A few Update Photos:

After first pass of body filler. It was only a light skim coat. Btw, these will be covered in vinyl fabric to match the dash color/ texture.I have a sample of this material on its way for me to make sure.

Thanks for looking'

More to come...


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

So, I haven't done much this morning. But, I did measure the volume. They are both right around .5 Liters. Should do fine for my use. Here is the crossover points I've calculated for a starting point:


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

After bondo and sanding. And... Ready for some primer:


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Whew! Done with that part.

I'll post some "in Truck" Pics after the 6 coats of paint really cures.

Well, that's it for now. I'll be back next week when I start the doors.


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## metanium (Feb 2, 2007)

I have made a few dash pods before and have great respect for the effort you put in here. These look great.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Alright guys. I have a small update. The grills came in and fit perfect. I also ordered the vinyl fabric to wrap them in. they are going to go silver to match the dash accents. I also have photos of the tweeter placement I'm gonna go with. Tweet will be Dayton ND28F-6

Any thoughts on the tweet placement?

-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Got some work in this weekend. Tweet pods are done.
I didnt include as many photos of the process. If your curious, check the above posts for the Mid pods. I followed the same process. Except I used panty hose for the first layer instead of a piece of thermal underwear. It took a bit more care. But, it didn't add any buildup around the edges that I had to trim off.


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## VodkaDthmetalSpryPnt (Mar 21, 2019)

Nice work. What are you using to attach your tweeter pods to the door card?


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

VodkaDthmetalSpryPnt said:


> Nice work. What are you using to attach your tweeter pods to the door card?


EDIT: This is what I used to mount them. It is a acrylic adhesive tape. Very thin, VERY sticky. The paper backing is still on it in this photo:









I work in the plastics division of a Sign Manufacturing shop. So, I have access to a range of permanent and semi-permanent adhesives that will do the job.
If I didn't have access to those adhesives, I would probably glue a nut to the inside of the pod, Drill a matching clearance hole in the door panel and screw it from the inside of the panel.
I plan on using a 3M Laminating film that is considered permanent.
This is my playground from 8-5:


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## VodkaDthmetalSpryPnt (Mar 21, 2019)

Nice!


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Most days I really feel like its a privilege to get to work there. I enjoy it immensely. We are a _custom_ sign shop. So, I get to make many different kinds of products. Nothing is standard off the shelf. We have to figure out how to make pretty much everything. It is very fun to me.

Btw, I have public models of both the mid and tweet baffle that I made. I routed mine out of 1/2" Black PVC Sheet Stock. But, they would probably be good for 3D printing as well. They are available at OnShape:
Tweet Baffle
Mid Baffle

They are made to work with these grills available on Amazon:
3" Grill
4" Grill

-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

I finally got my HU installed. I am very impressed with the rs100's. They really sound good in sealed pods. Even off of the HU. I will be getting the amps installed this week. Tweets and rs225's will also be here this week. I started on the sound deadening of the doors. It ended up taking about 25 sqft for just one layer on all metal surfaces for one door. (Inside of outside, outside of inside, inside of inside. I will be covering the large holes with .080" aluminum. I have the before photos now. I will take after photos when I get done. (Should be tomorrow)


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

I bought a JL 300/2v1 for $165 +shipping. This will be perfect for the mid-basses.
Dayton DSP-408's are back in stock. So, I have one on the way.
I also got the Baffles started.
Hopefully, I will have the RS225's mounted this weekend.

Btw, If anyone wants the vector file for the baffles, let me know.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

The mid-basses did not get here. But, I finished what I could on the doors and hooked up the amp. I can't believe how much bass is coming from the stock speakers. It's going to be great when I get some real drivers in there.

So, I am pretty sure that the RS225's will fit. But, it is soooo close. I won't know untill they get here Monday.

I had to remove quite a bit of "stuff" from the inside of the door panel after I closed the holes in the door. Definitely not for the faint of heart. 

More photos:


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

I am very impressed with the Dayton Mids and tweets. The RS225's Are NOT good for this usage. They are getting scrapped from this build. I am thinking about throwing down the money for a set of AD W800Neo. For the meantime, I threw a set of Crescendo UN8's in there and they work. Just not as low as I want to go.

I will use the RS225's for a center channel to go with my D3's I built decades ago. Hopefully the W800Neo will do the job. What was that saying? "Buy once, Cry Once, Enjoy for a Long Time..." <<- That's someone else's saying. Just dont remember who.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Started a box for a front sub today. I'm gonna throw a 8" or 10" under the glove box.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

AD neos are here!!


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Got some time in today. Got most of the amps mounted. That large open spot is for my JL 1000/1. I didn't put it in cause I don't have a box or subs yet. Future goals. Full layer of deadener and a sheet of mlv. The exhaust is less noisy now. And I don't even have the rear seats back in yet. Good stuff!

-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Update:

Coming along nicely. My focus swapped over to fabing some custom trunk boxes for a buddy the last two weeks. But, I'm back on track. I have had a little time to play with the tune. And I cant seem to get the RS100's the way I want them. So, I ordered a set of the RS100p. I would have bought them initially. But, they were not in stock. Hopefully they will have less breakup. The AD W800Neo are fantastic. I was a little nervous when I took them out of the box. They are very light and dont look or feel like they would put out much. They are VERY impressive. I have them playing down to 60hz on 24db/oct crossover. My little Dayton RSS210 under the dash takes over from there. Bass is very full all the way to 35hz. And plenty loud enough for my "Old Man" listening. I am still planning on getting a 12" sub for under the back seat for ~40hz and down. Here are my candidates so far:

SI BM MKV ( of course )
JL 12TW3
Sundown SD-4

Also, I can't stand the way my old single din Kenwood looks on the dash. I think I am going to try one of those Android HU that fits the dash.

7 Inch Android 10 Touch Screen Car Stereo DVD Player in Dash GPS Navigation for 2007-2013 Toyota Tundra/ 2008-2013 Toyota Sequoia Support Bluetooth/WiFi Hotspots/4G/OBD2/DVR/AV-IN:Amazon:Electronics


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## Kapp1 (Mar 22, 2015)

Are you sure your back seat is going to fold up with those amps mounted where they are?


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## lithium (Oct 29, 2008)

Great build. Excellent FG work on the pods.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Kapp1 said:


> Are you sure your back seat is going to fold up with those amps mounted where they are?


I am not! They will not quite fold up. The bottom of the seat frame contacts the slash amps. 
The small seat fold up though!🧐

Time for some modification


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Update:

I swapped out the RS100's for RS100P-4. What a difference. There was a harshness that was probably due to breakup that I could not tune out of those aluminum cones. All good now.

Also, I did the back seat Fold Down Mod. Worked like a champ. I just took a hammer to the hooks on the back wall and tapped them down untill the seat hook would slip over them.

-Happy Jay


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

nice progress


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## Bobby_Jones (Apr 9, 2020)

Nice fabrication.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

The sub under the glove box was just too obtrusive. My baby needs her feet room. So, if anyone wants it... I ended up with 3 x Dayton RSS210HO 8" subs under the rear seat facing the back wall. A bit of a JL steathbox clone but smaller.

I also included a few screens of my recent tune. It sounds phenomenal. I have no intention of needing any other midrange. The Dayton RS100p took quite a bit of work. The enclosure had to be modified to get rid of some very peaky behavior around 200-300Hz. I cut about a 3" hole in the back to vent into the dash. Also used a bit of foam to restrict airflow. Might be considered aperiodic at this point. Went ahead and upgraded to a Helix DSP.3. Nothing wrong with the Mosconi. I just got a really good deal on a package of helix/audio control gear.

Still need a newer head unit. This one does the job. But I'd like to get a larger more modern unit.

Updated Equipment manifest:

KENWOOD KDC x997
Helix DSP.3
JL XD 400/4
JL Slash 300/2
JL XD 600/1

Dayton ND28F-6 Tweeters
Dayton RS100P-4 Midrange
Audio Development W800NEO Midbass
3x Dayton RSS210HO-4

I'll try to get some better pics of the sub boxes at some point. I've still gotta pull them out, finish the enclosures ( with carpet probably ), and tidy up the wiring behind the rear seat

For any of you Tundra owners out there:
The rear seats get Very close to the back wall when folded up. This is why I went with the XD series amps instead of my Slash V1's. XDs fit just fine though.

-Jay

EDIT: Cropped Photos


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## NW JLUR (Dec 3, 2018)

Looking good! I’ve got a pair of the RS-100 I’m wondering about using instead of the RS-75 I have right now. Only reason I didn’t was I’d have to fabricate a new grill which I’m going to do anyway to hide my tweeter.


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

NW JLUR said:


> Looking good! I’ve got a pair of the RS-100 I’m wondering about using instead of the RS-75 I have right now. Only reason I didn’t was I’d have to fabricate a new grill which I’m going to do anyway to hide my tweeter.


Be careful with those. The RS100 is NOT the same as the RS100P. Aluminum Cone vs Paper cone.
The RS100's have severe breakup


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Upgraded the tweets to AF GB10. They dropped right into the pods I made for the Dayton ND28F.


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## chefhow (Apr 29, 2007)

Fellow Tundra owner and it looks great!!


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Finally getting around to installing my SI BM MKv. 

The Sub will be firing Upwards. I just havent cut the hole yet.

-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

More Photos...
Updated


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

Photos of the reinforcing process. I still plan to add more dowels and deaden the interior.

...and finished out the inside of the door panels with some of Nick's Resonix CLD and CCF. 

-Tired Jay


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## MythosDreamLab (Nov 28, 2020)

Hello Jay, I love your fabrication work! I am getting custom corner-dash/windshield pods made starting Wednesday, and they were going to point them more directly towards the center area between the driver and passenger seats (their recommendation). 

I am wondering why you aimed your up at the windshield instead of more directly outward? As I understand it, yours will reflect more in an outward direction, but is that an advantage or what, I'm don't really get it...

Thanks


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

MythosDreamLab said:


> Hello Jay, I love your fabrication work! I am getting custom corner-dash/windshield pods made starting Wednesday, and they were going to point them more directly towards the center area between the driver and passenger seats (their recommendation).
> 
> I am wondering why you aimed your up at the windshield instead of more directly outward? As I understand it, yours will reflect more in an outward direction, but is that an advantage or what, I'm don't really get it...
> 
> Thanks


If you look at the photo below. you can see that at the top of the enclosure there is a flat area. This is where it would contact the windsheild. I physically couldn't angle the original drivers any more than I did. Also, this was not built to be the "best possible" Placement. It was designed to be as good as I could get without modification of the dash. (That would have put me in a higher class)

I can remove the custom enclosures, replace the original drivers and snap the grill back on in 15 minutes if I want to. There was no destructive modifications to the dash.

-Jay


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## JaySea20 (Jun 21, 2020)

3 coats of bondo/resin mixture to seal and harden the exterior
Block Sanded to ensure flat surfaces. 
3 Coats primer

Next will be glazing compound in the small imperfections and more primer.

Oh, I found powder steel to be cheaper than lead shot. I am going to mix the powder steel with resin and slather as much as I can on the inside to add as much weight as possible.

Till next time...

-Jay


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