# 2003 Ford F350 King Ranch 4x4 ccsb



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Well since I have a couple hundred posts all over this forum for different issues I've have with designing, and building my system, I thought I may as well try to put some of them together and make a BUILD thread.

Enjoy.

This is my truck:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Right now I have an Alpine IVA-310, Kicker KX 550.3, a 10" square L5, Rockford Fosgate rear speakers, and round Orion's in the front doors.
Sounds ok, but:

I gave my son the Kicker L5, and I got a cd stuck inside the player.
My wife's ride has Bluetooth, and now I want it in my truck so I can play music from my IPad, or phone.

I don't really need nav, as the ruck does not venture too far from home anymore.

I have bought so far:

1 JL 12W7-3 sub.
1 Rockford Fosgate Power 1001 DB amp for the JL.
1 Rockford Fosgate Punch 801X for the component speakers.

I'm thinking of getting a set of Hertz 165LX components.

Not sure what head unit to get....

My installer likes Alpine...says it plays cleaner than Kenwood. (Good)
He likes the INE-W927HD
Other people seem to like Kenwood...DDX8901HD, or ???

I would like to get something that has USB, Bluetooth, HDMI, and be compatible with iPad, iPhone, and or droid.

Other crap...the JL will be installed in a custom center console, firing towards the back window.

Any help or opinions on any of the speakers, or HUs, please let me know, thanks!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Just bought a JL 1000/1v2
Gonna use it for the 12W7 now instead of the Power 1001.

Trying to buy a set of Hertz 165XL's but kinda being mislead...

Scored a BNIB JL 450/4v2 from "Yuck".
So now I need to order a couple of distribution blocks, and a component set.

There are a ton of different distribution blocks...but I think I would need two 1/0 gauge in with two 4 gauge out blocks.
Anything brand that you guys prefer over the other. I would like high quality, not Kmart special.

Also, read the wire compare thread, and going with a Rockford 1/0 gauge amp install kit. (17' of 1/0 gauge power wire, 3' of 1/0 gauge ground wire, 100 amp ANL fuse, etc.)
Bought a JL 1000/1v2 to run the JL12W7-3, and a JL 450/4v2 to run mids/tweeters.

Threw the amps into the truck, but still have old Rockford 5x7" in the rear, and Orion 5 1/4" 2 ways in the front doors....and the poor little Solobaric 10" L5 is hooked to the JL 1000/1v2,
All new 1 gauge wire, 300amp ANL Rockford Fosgate fuse block, RF distribution blocks for power and ground, and 4 gauge power, and ground to both amps from the dis blocks.

Picked up a 62" x 18" x 1/4" piece of aluminum this afternoon to make an amp rack for behind the rear seat.

Kind of a cluster right now, as the amps are just on the floor...can't put the rear seat back in because the amps stick out too far...and I don't want them damaged before they find their final resting place.

Played a 45hz test tone for the sub amp, and a 1k hz for the rest of the system...setting it up per the manuals that came with the amps.

Here is a picture of everything before it was put into the truck.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Bought a set of Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus 61-2's from Huckleberry Sound.
And bought 2 remote bass controllers for my JL amps.
A friend gave me like 6 sheets of Dynamat Extreme. I used 2 sheets in my sons car, and did the passenger side front door....just to get a feel of how much more I'm gonna need.

I have also been emailing Michael Stannard at Hybrid Audio Technologies (Audio Salon) trying to figure out how they can build me a custom center console for my 12W7....without making the 36 hour drive down...in the winter...


After speaking to Michael Stanard of Hybrid Audio Tech out of Cummins, GA, he helped me find a closer shop that was more than qualified to do the install on my truck.

My wife, son and I traveled 3 hours one way to meet the shop supervisor, and the installer who would be doing my truck.
We talked for almost 3 hours, got a tour of their huge shop, and decided on shooting some ideas back and forth, before we commit to the install in February.

Since talking to them, I bought another JL 12W7-3, and thinking of buying another set of HAT Clarus 61-2's for the front stage.
They also talked me into getting a Mosconi 6-8 with display, and a new Kenwood DNN991 HD for a HU.

Picked up 2 sheets of clear plexiglass, 16" x 60" x 1/4" thick.
Some LED lights, and a bunch of copper pipe, and fittings.

Super excited about it.
Gonna try to go with a slight "Steampunk" theme...not total overkill Steampunk, but just enough to tie it into the King Ranch leather.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Started with removing the interior to install some sound dampening.

Here is what it looked like before I removed the second vent, and the the old crap dampener.









You can see the big Ty wraps I used to hold the rubber flaps open, so they didn't rattle.

Updates from Nov. 20/2014:

Finally got some time to work on the truck again.

On the back wall:

100% coverage with Dynamat Extreme
Then 100% coverage with CCF & MLV...
And then I went 1 step further because I don't want to take the amp rack out to do this again.....I did 100% coverage on top of the MLV with 1/2" Dynaliner.





































Updates from about December 5/2014:

Then I got a good start on the floor's CCF & MLV.
The floor has 100% coverage with Dynamat, which is also doubled up on the transmission tunnel from the front of the cab, all the way to the back wall.





























I called it a day after I finished the MLV on the floor, running the three sets of RCA cables, two remote gain cables for the amps, throwing the rug back in, and got one of the rear pillar posts covered with 1/4" Dynaliner.

Other things going on that needed my attention, so I didn't get a lot of time to work on it today.

Here is a quick shot of the rear pillar post.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I sound proofed/deadened the rear doors, but don't seem to have any pictures of them.

I put Dynamat Extreme on the outer skin, and on the inner skin as well as CCF & MLV right behind the door panels.

Updates from about a week ago:

Well, after the $11K estimate for the center console and door panels, I'm going to be doing more of the system myself.
Inside of the front doors now have a layer of Dynamat Extreme, and a 1/2" thick layer of Dynaliner on top of that.
Built a couple of adaptors for the midrange speakers. (Only going to use one set for now.)
Picked up some 1/4" Lexan today to cover the huge holes in each of the front doors.
Once I have the covers made, I will cover the outside of the door skin with Dynamat Extreme, CCF & MLV.

Oh...I also got the midrange and tweeter speaker wires pulled I to passenger door through the factory rubber boot. (The easy side) 
12 gauge for the mids, 16 gauge for the tweeters.

Here is what the old adaptors from a shop in town look like:









These are the ones I made from a 3/8" cutting board I bought from Walmart:










The cutting boards were not big enough to cover the huge hole in the front doors of the truck, so I purchased some 1/4" Lexan and made a couple of covers last night.

The holes:









The fix: 
1/4" Lexan covered with Dynamat Extreme, CCF & MLV.









Installed:









I ran out of Dynamat again, so I can't finish covering the door panels until more arrives.

Going to work on the CCF & MLV panels for the front today.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Next, I guess I could show the progress of what is now my amp rack.
I gotta say that after working with the Lexan, I have no idea why in the hell I used plexiglass for the amp rack. Never, ever again...just sayin...


I bought a piece of 1/4" aluminum 16" x 60" and started laying out pieces.










This picture shows I had already drilled some of the holes for wires, etc.
I was just trying to see if it would fit in the truck before getting too carried away...









Plans always seem to change in my world...but the holes were already drilled for the crossovers, then I bought a Mosconi 6 to 8.
I'm trying to go with a slight "Steampunk" theme inside the truck. With the King Ranch leather, it should look good with the copper.










The blue LEDs reflected too much under the crossovers and 6 to 8, so I changed it again so there're was less reflection. (Look between where the amps butt up together...I don't like that blue shining through...)


















Changes made...









Installed in the truck after purchasing a remote DSP for the Mosconi.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Daytime picture of amp rack before seat bracket was set in place.










Not sure just how much your gonna see after the buckets are back in...










Power feed, distribution blocks, fuses, and ground cable runs.











Didn't turn out too bad for it being my first ever amp rack.:surprised:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Here are a few pictures of the HU, remote DSP, speakers, blah, blah, blah...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Probably gonna make different adaptors for the front speakers...I centered the 6 1/2" on the stock 5 x 7" cutout, and there is quite a bit of the cone area covered by the door panel.



















Maybe dropping the speakers down about an inch will help uncover them more.

I really didn't want to cut my doors, as I wanted to make custom door panels...just not sure how long it would be before I decided to do them.


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## capea4 (Sep 2, 2010)

Nice f'n rack bro!

Bravo


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

capea4 said:


> Nice f'n rack bro!
> 
> Bravo


Thank you.

Wasn't sure how much would be seen after the seats were installed though.
I originally had a bench seat in the back, but needed the extra space for the sub box or boxes.

Turns out, you can't see too much of it...










Gonna have to hide that pesky power wire...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

So I was asked to post up some shots that show the available space for the sub box or boxes...
If anyone has any ideas as to what I should try to make for the box/boxes, please post up!

Here is what is available for the rear:




























There is 15.5" between the tightest part of the buckets. (Still need a little room for the seat belts to come through.)










Shape of the floor from the front to the back.










After reading more about ported and sealed boxes, I feel I would get more "kick" out of a ported box/boxes.

No idea how to proceed...every box I've seen is just that..a box. This has to take the contour of the floor into consideration, or I would just be giving up valuable volume.
I'd also like to angle the back sub up to the amp rack like I have the sub in the picture.

Should I aim them both back, and up towards the back window?


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## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Wow! Really great work on laying out that amp rack man.. Looks amazing and I love the theme so far.

If your doing buckets up front perhaps a console that runs front to back, subs firing down to is my favorite in a truck. Good job so far


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

deeppinkdiver said:


> Wow! Really great work on laying out that amp rack man.. Looks amazing and I love the theme so far.
> 
> If your doing buckets up front perhaps a console that runs front to back, subs firing down to is my favorite in a truck. Good job so far


That was my original idea...having a professional shop build it, as I have no experience with fibreglass at all.

It was going to tie into the front dash, and run all the way to the back of the cab..just in front of the amp rack. 

They were also going to be down firing, but when I had the front buckets in, and removed the center console, I set one of the subs in, and to give 4" of clearance on the bottom, and not have something that looks like "Redneckville" is almost impossible. The armrest would be close to ear level.

And I have no idea how I would get a box that long in and out of the truck without having all the seats out of it...


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## JVD240 (Sep 7, 2009)

Love the amp rack! Really nice. Good job dude.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

You can use some of that copper tubing and bend it to the shape of the floor. That's what i do to get the contour lines. Then trace it to the wood and grab a jig saw. Clearly you have enough skill to try and make your own center console. The full length center console is great idea. Nice work so far.

I typed this before you said you wouldn't have room. Enough room in a long console for a sub in a 4th order?


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Nice head unit you have, someone has great taste I see .


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

You could probably seal both subs in the space in the back and have the front of the console be your ported chamber.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> You could probably seal both subs in the space in the back and have the front of the console be your ported chamber.


Auuughhh....not sure what you mean here....sorry.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> You can use some of that copper tubing and bend it to the shape of the floor. That's what i do to get the contour lines. Then trace it to the wood and grab a jig saw. Clearly you have enough skill to try and make your own center console. The full length center console is great idea. Nice work so far.
> 
> I typed this before you said you wouldn't have room. Enough room in a long console for a sub in a 4th order?


That's a perfect idea!
Thanks!


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## bigfastmike (Jul 16, 2012)

Beautiful so far. I've been trying to plan out install for my f350. Think about finding bucket seats for rear to do console enclosure or move bench forward. Yours will be awesome


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

bigfastmike said:


> Beautiful so far. I've been trying to plan out install for my f350. Think about finding bucket seats for rear to do console enclosure or move bench forward. Yours will be awesome


I moved my bench forward an inch and a half, and it was ok for when my kids were smaller, but once they grew up, or if other adults are in the back...it's very hard to get your feet out of the cab. (Remember, mine is an '03, and the rear doors don't swing 90* open.)

And...if that wasn't enough, I actually wore two holes through my 10" Rockford HX2 surround where it rubbed against the back of the seat frame.


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## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Wow...Nice job on the amp rack. Love the copper piping idea.


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## bigfastmike (Jul 16, 2012)

How big of enclosure were you able to fit by moving it the inch and a half? I have a couple slim dd subs I might try. If not I have 2 illusion 10xl for console box. Oh the decisions. Lol


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

bigfastmike said:


> How big of enclosure were you able to fit by moving it the inch and a half? I have a couple slim dd subs I might try. If not I have 2 illusion 10xl for console box. Oh the decisions. Lol


I can measure the box I pulled out here...it's not the same as the one that let the surround rub, but it's about as much box that could fit behind the seat of mine.
My old '03 doesn't have the power back window stuff either...yours may, which limits you even more.

OK, quick measurement s of the bottom, back and top are: 8.5" x 14.25" x 5" for the top.

Sorry, sitting in a movie theater...waiting for "American Sniper" to start...don't wanna be a "Tommy Texter".


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Extended Power said:


> Auuughhh....not sure what you mean here....sorry.


I was thinking of something like this. Excuse the drawing. Were at diner. I'm blessed enough my wife shares these car audio conversations with me. She likes your amp rack too. 
The 4th order box can get you the small enclosure sound with ported output. Obviously space is needed. If it was me this is what i would do with just one sub.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Going to build two separate boxes.
Back box will be: 22" deep, 15.5" wide, and 19" high.
The top will come out 12" then drop down 5" using an "S" shaped kerf, so the front of the box will be 17" high.
It will have a 1 3/4" slot port, 10" wide, 12.5" long, tuned to 35Hz.


Sound ok?

Edit: found out that 35Hz is a little high...I'll try 32Hz for some SQ.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Duplicate post.


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## 2010hummerguy (Oct 7, 2009)

That looks awesome, I love the copper piping for the wires, very clean and creative.

I love those King Ranch trucks, and it definitely takes a special kind of crazy to rip the interior out of something that nice. I like it


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Architect7 said:


> That looks awesome, I love the copper piping for the wires, very clean and creative.
> 
> I love those King Ranch trucks, and it definitely takes a special kind of crazy to rip the interior out of something that nice. I like it


Thank you.
Yes, I really like the interior as well. The leather on the seats and consoles are beautiful, and I'd like to use some on the new boxes somehow....it'll come to me....just gotta think about it long enough.


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## ptaudio415 (Dec 30, 2013)

Omg this build is over the top.. Thanks for so many ideas lol. Please keep the pictures coning.. Fallowing for sure


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## audio+civic (Apr 16, 2009)

That is an amazing amp rack.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks for the compliments guys...it keeps me motivated.

I went down and picked up a bunch of material I was waiting for.
More Dynamat Extreme for the most part, so I could continue on with the front doors.

I finally bit the bullet yesterday and pulled the new speaker wires through for the drivers side door. Kind of a pita, but it had to be done.

Also covered the front of the door panel with Dynamat, and got the adaptor ring, and HAT Clarus 61-2 mid bass/range installed into the door.

This picture shows the radius I cut onto the backside of the adaptor plates.










I added 2 more mounting screws to the adaptor plates to stiffen it up, and improve the seal against the door.










Today, I cut the CCF and MLV to fit the door panel.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Just got back from Home Depot...
Found a new toy....


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Life gettin in the way again.
Today I got the passenger side mid installed.
Door dampened, and both passenger, and drivers door covered with CCF.
Hope to get the MLV cut tonight, and throw the door panels back on...but we are having company over again...so we shall see.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Here is a shot of the adaptor plate with the insulating speaker foam on it....just before the speaker was mounted to it.










Speaker mounted.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Here is a shot of the adaptor plate with the insulating speaker foam on it....just before the speaker was mounted to it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


LOL!!

Im so proud of you!!

You will soon be fully addicted. 

To think that you almost paid someone to do this work for you.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks. Lol

Yeah, I pretty much convinced myself I can build a couple of boxes myself.
I'm so damn anal about stuff it should turn out ok.
....if not, I can build it over, and over, and over again....and still be waaaay under what the shops wanted.


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## Blackbeard (Nov 19, 2014)

EP,
Great job! Lots of ideas for us fellow Powerstrokers!

Getting ready to tackle mine later in Feb. While I am going big on the sound deadening, I don't think I'll be going as full bore as you on the equipment.

As I finalize my plans, it would help if you could answer a few questions for me:

On the front speakers, what is the available depth for the speaker w/o the riser?

What do you think the total thickness of the Dynamat and MLV will be once you get the MLV on? Do you think you will have any problem w/ getting the panels back on? I am thinking about using the Klossus CLD w/ SS Lux Liner Pro on the doors but I am worried about the space behind the panel.

Where are you putting the tweets?

What are you doing w/ the stock rear speakers? I am thinking of concentrating on the front and the sub and will remove the rears when I deadening the doors and panel over the hole.

BTW, I had the thread on hoodliners recently. Found some good stuff at Cascade that I think will do a great job of deadening and will stand up to the heat. I am waiting on a recommendation from them and will post shortly to the hoodliner thread.


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Thanks. Lol
> 
> Yeah, I pretty much convinced myself I can build a couple of boxes myself.
> I'm so damn anal about stuff it should turn out ok.
> ....if not, I can build it over, and over, and over again....and still be waaaay under what the shops wanted.


I had no doubt that you would come to this conclusion. 

What you dont realize yet though is that even if it turns out exactly how you plan it.....you are going to do it again and again anyways....its part of the addiction!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Blackbeard said:


> EP,
> Great job! Lots of ideas for us fellow Powerstrokers!
> 
> Getting ready to tackle mine later in Feb. While I am going big on the sound deadening, I don't think I'll be going as full bore as you on the equipment.
> ...



On the front speakers...I can measure the old Orion coaxial speakers that were in there. They only had 1/4" adaptor plates made of MDF, and the tweeter portion was right up against the door panel speaker grill part.
With the new HAT Clarus speakers, I needed the 3/8" adaptor plate, and the 1/8" grill mounting plate for the proper clearance on the back side.

The total thickness of the Dynamat Extreme, with the CCF and MLV all together can't be more than 5/16" total. (The CCF and MLV are both 1/8" thick.)
I had to cut all the plastic stand offs on the back doors for the panels to go back on...they were a *****.

Tweeter wires are run up through the doors, up to the sail panels. Not going to mount them just yet...going to use double sided tape, and play with the location a bit before deciding where to mount them. (I don't want to cut the door panels for them, and I'm not too familiar with fibreglass yet.)

Stock rear speakers were replaced long ago with some RF speakers. I left them in place to fill the holes. I also left them with enough wire on them so if I want to hook them up, I just have to reach back, and grab the wire bundle, and run them to an amp, or HU.

Hood liner for me is a no go. I didn't have enough room on my first set of compound turbos, so I removed the stock felt liner.
I will have to see just how much noise is still coming in before doing anymore dampening/deadening.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

ndm said:


> I had no doubt that you would come to this conclusion.
> 
> What you dont realize yet though is that even if it turns out exactly how you plan it.....you are going to do it again and again anyways....its part of the addiction!


Well, I just put the mids in the stock locations for now because I have no idea how to do fibreglass pods.

I will try to make something next winter, when the truck hibernates again.

Just gotta get it playin right now.


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## Blackbeard (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks.

I thought about the sail panels also but on the driver's side it puts the tweet facing directly into the instrument cluster. Don't know how much that will impact SQ.

I will probably wait until other deadening is done also but I'm pretty convinced that much of the engine noise is coming through the hood and the windshield more so than the firewall. If that proves to be the case, then some type of hoodliner will be needed.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I bought a couple of ABS plastic couplers that are the exact size of the HAT tweeter trim rings.
I am going to try to angle them up, and at the center of the cab roof.

I have a 4 gauge pillar on the A pillar on the drivers side, and an Oh-**** handle on the passenger side.

Not a lot of options for mounting them without hacking into a panel.

And I don't like the gap at the bottom of the sail panel when using the newer Super Duty factory tweeter sail panels in the older trucks.


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## Blackbeard (Nov 19, 2014)

I like the "angle" angle!


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## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

beautiful amprack


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got the drivers door all done as far as getting the CCF and MLV on it, and the panel back on....yea!

Cut out of the MLV:










MLV and CCF glued together:










All back together again:


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## bigfastmike (Jul 16, 2012)

Did you run new wires into doors? Mine has huge harness plug that makes it near impossible to run through factory boot.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

bigfastmike said:


> Did you run new wires into doors? Mine has huge harness plug that makes it near impossible to run through factory boot.


Yes, new 12 gauge for the mids, and 14gauge for the tweeters.

Check the photos, and you should be able to see them in there.

Yes, the boot is a big pita on the drivers side. I had to remove the hood release, and the park brake assembly just to get at the harness, as it's behind all that ****.

Used a big long Ty-wrap, and it was easy. (If I can even say that for the drivers side.)
I used a long Ty-wrap on the passenger side as well, and it only took like 5 minutes.

You have to pull the boot out of the door to help feed the Ty-wrap through...it just pushes back in afterwards.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

So I picked up some wooden bed post knobs to use as tweeter pods. (I don't know why Micheals has bed post knobs.)

Here is where I'm at so far...I don't know if I want to cut the wooden pod back more on the face, and use the tweeter bezel, or use it the way it is right now....

What do you think?
I can push them in so they fit flush...it's just pressed in a bit for the pictures.


















They will be painted either way...since they aren't aluminum.


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## MyName (Oct 14, 2009)

Best you mount them flush as far as diffraction is concerned. 

Nice build so far. :thumbsup:


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## Huckleberry Sound (Jan 17, 2009)

Looking good. Keep up the nice work!


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## miniSQ (Aug 4, 2009)

love the look so far...but maybe this can help you decide if you want to take them down a little more so the grill is in the same arc as t he circle.

http://gadgetreview.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/orb-audio-mini-t-system.jpeg


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

MyName said:


> Best you mount them flush as far as diffraction is concerned.
> 
> Nice build so far. :thumbsup:


Yes...I will just push them in until they are flush...but if you meant not use the pod, and flush mount them...I don't want to cut holes in my panels. (The sail panels are cheap compared to door panels.)

Thank you.



Huckleberry Sound said:


> Looking good. Keep up the nice work!


Thank you. I will try.
If I ever upgrade speakers, I would love to use the Legatia SE series.



miniSQ said:


> love the look so far...but maybe this can help you decide if you want to take them down a little more so the grill is in the same arc as t he circle.
> 
> http://gadgetreview.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/orb-audio-mini-t-system.jpeg


Thank you.
Yes, that's what I meant. I would press them in more so they are flush.
The bezels that come with the tweeters are more for panel hole mounting, and are too big for the pods...I think it would look weird.
Looking at where they will be mounted...there is only one way to aim, and mount, so there really is no reason to try moving them around. (Unless I aim them off the window....)
I have some 3/4" stainless tubing I will use for the standoff, and drill a small hole into the sail panel and mount them up here in a bit.

I decided to make the pods after reading the tweeter/midrange enclosure thread. (Very helpful)


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

What was I thinking??? Stainless.....
Gotta use copper!

Painted the pods a semi-gloss black to match the grills of the tweeters, and the factory sail panels.

Shall see how it looks with the 1" copper stand off mount. (The black and copper will tie into the amp rack and Steampunk type theme.)


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

CRaP!
I hate rushing.
Paint wasn't dry before I pressed the tweeters in, and I butched the paint on them.
I will sand, and repaint these when I come home again.

I'm just gonna let them dry for a week so they sand easier.

Here is what they look like:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

What should I use to fill the gap between the grill and pod?
Silicone?
Plastic wood filler?


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## Blackbeard (Nov 19, 2014)

EP,
Keeping w/ the steampunk theme, how bout the pipe going through a small gear on the top and a larger gear on the bottom.

It would cover up the gap and look cool also.

And I know you've already painted the tweets but I'm thinking the housing orb would look kinda neat in an aged copper rather than black to give the whole stack the SP vibe.

Are you going to keep the copper bright or let it age to a patina?

Just a thoughtstream coming through but I'm kinda into the steampunk thing too.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Not sure how to incorporate a grea on these, as the placement is pretty tight as it is right now.
Princess Auto opens up this month...might have to go have a look see.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Went to Princess Auto yesterday.
Found some gears that would fit over the copper, but it made the pods look like flowers so that's out.
Used smaller copper pipe instead of the 1" stuff so it doesn't look as miss matched in sizes with the pods.

Then I went and used a self etching primer on top of the last paint as I was sanding the pods smooth...and it buggered up the paint right down to the wood...so they are back down to just wood again, and trying to get them finished up nicely.

Also covered the backside of the B pillar panels with Dynaliner, and put some MLV behind the Dynamat Extreme. (Which is covering the B pillar posts of the cab.)


----------



## Blackbeard (Nov 19, 2014)

If you want to age the copper, use Miracle Grow African Violet Liquid Food. I swear! Was on the truck show on Spike TV. They had a front grille on a early 50's Chevy copper plated and used the MGAVLF to age it.

I believe the longer you keep it on the more aging it does. From a bright finish to more brown and all the way to green patina.

Can't remember the episode but just googling MGAVLF and aging copper brings up tons of stuff.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I actually really like the way the copper looks polished.
I coated all the copper tubing on the amp rack with lacquer.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

WOW!
Best $26.00 I ever spent...
Re-did the door seal mod on all four doors.
This ***** is air tight!

Probably pop a damn window out in the summer without crackin a window open first.

Frickin awesome!


----------



## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Here is an example of a down firing center console. This is for my Dayton HO 15 in my Silverado.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Nice!
I really like the way it's rolled.


----------



## Navy Chief (Jun 14, 2010)

Extended Power said:


> Nice!
> I really like the way it's rolled.


It was done using a technique called kerfing, it's not that hard to do if you have patience.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Navy Chief said:


> It was done using a technique called kerfing, it's not that hard to do if you have patience.


Yeah I looked that up awhile ago when I wanted to roll the front on the box I wanted to build for the back.
I still haven't started to build the rear sub box yet...
I did order some of these last night though.....


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I think I might tackle the HU install today.
Gotta pull the dash panel out...kinda makes me feel like I'm going backwards instead of forwards...
I don't have either back-up or forward cameras to put in, but would like to do it later on, as I already have one installed in the rear bumper that doesn't work anymore. (It's just plugging the hole.)
Not sure how many times this thing will be pulled in and out today...but...wish me luck!


----------



## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Extended Power said:


> WOW!
> Best $26.00 I ever spent...
> Re-did the door seal mod on all four doors.
> This ***** is air tight!
> ...



I missed it, what did you do here?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

deeppinkdiver said:


> I missed it, what did you do here?


When you pull your door seals off, they become flattened in a few spots after a while. (Read that my truck is twelve years old.)
There is a hollow tube like seal that you can feed a 1/4" soft vinyl tube through it to help seal the doors better.
I was able to push/pull a 3/8" O.D vinyl hose through each door seal.

With the hose inside the seal, the doors are unbelievabley "Tight".


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Update on the HU...
Finally got enough dash material removed to slide the HU into the opening without the install kit.

Front of dash panel opening before cutting.



















I'm thinking of putting both of the JL Audio remote gain controls right beside the SOTF selector....Thoughts?

Backside of dash before cutting.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

After cutting the opening enough for the HU.


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Good job so far and I am sure it will only get better...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> Good job so far and I am sure it will only get better...


Thank you

...took longer than I wanted, but I was scared of cutting too much out, and wrecking the panel completely.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Tweeter pod....
Not sure I like them yet....


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Where is everyone buying their speaker grill mesh from?
Just trying to get some for the custom door panels next winter.


----------



## teldzc1 (Oct 9, 2009)

Dig the pods. What tweeter is that? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The tweeters are the HAT Clarus 61-2 component set tweeter.


----------



## Kevin K (Feb 11, 2013)

Extended Power said:


> When you pull your door seals off, they become flattened in a few spots after a while. (Read that my truck is twelve years old.)
> There is a hollow tube like seal that you can feed a 1/4" soft vinyl tube through it to help seal the doors better.
> I was able to push/pull a 3/8" O.D vinyl hose through each door seal.
> 
> With the hose inside the seal, the doors are unbelievabley "Tight".



That's a great idea and will have to try that out, thanks for sharing.


----------



## bigbubba (Mar 23, 2011)

Extended Power said:


> When you pull your door seals off, they become flattened in a few spots after a while. (Read that my truck is twelve years old.)
> There is a hollow tube like seal that you can feed a 1/4" soft vinyl tube through it to help seal the doors better.
> I was able to push/pull a 3/8" O.D vinyl hose through each door seal.
> 
> With the hose inside the seal, the doors are unbelievabley "Tight".


That's a cool idea. Never would have thought to do that. I have an '03 F150 Supercrew and the seals look in great shape but have flattened somewhat like you mentioned. Where did you get vinyl tubing from you used one yours?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I have a Hydraulic/hose shop close by that I bought a 100 foot roll for $26.00.
I could have bought 60 feet @ .42 per foot, or the whole roll for $26-27....so I bought the whole roll.

I just checked...I have 44 feet left off the roll after doing all four doors on my crewcab.


----------



## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Extended Power said:


> I have a Hydraulic/hose shop close by that I bought a 100 foot roll for $26.00.
> I could have bought 60 feet @ .42 per foot, or the whole roll for $26-27....so I bought the whole roll.


Genius idea. 
And thanks for the PM. Now you really make me want to start my build. Fantastic work!


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Here is the drivers side pod installed...just no dash panel yet.










You can see that I would have to glass the pods in if I wanted something different...and I don't know how...yet. Lol


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

pjc said:


> Genius idea.
> And thanks for the PM. Now you really make me want to start my build. Fantastic work!


Excellent! Glad I could help.....or sway your decision.


----------



## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

This freaking awesome build man! I love the amp rack and where you going with subs and tweeters I really dig the tweeter pods


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Yes, or no for amp gain control knob location?



















There will be two more next year.

Or here....


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I think if it were mine I would prefer both knobs to be horizontal on that area. It does blend well though.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Coppertone said:


> I think if it were mine I would prefer both knobs to be horizontal on that area. It does blend well though.


There will be two more knobs next year...and I thought this way, you know which one is for the front midrange, (top) and which one is for the sub, (bottom).


Gawd I hate being so anal and symmetrical.

Like this?....I kinda like it too...good call!


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

^^^ Yes, exactly like that would be the way that I would want mine to be. If you need them marked, you can always go with back lighting. Or small etchings underneath that show f/r...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Had to remove the fake connector on the backside of the panel piece.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Remote knobs installed!


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> There will be two more knobs next year...and I thought this way, you know which one is for the front midrange, (top) and which one is for the sub, (bottom).
> 
> 
> Gawd I hate being so anal and symmetrical.
> ...


I like the top/ bottom configuration better myself for the reasons you mentioned.



EDIT

Too late







[/QUOTE][/IMG]


----------



## Audiophilefred (Oct 24, 2012)

I love the way those gain controls look there , awesome job


----------



## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

See, job well done just as Ford intended.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

ndm said:


> I like the top/ bottom configuration better myself for the reasons you mentioned.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


There will be two more next year.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Audiophilefred said:


> I love the way those gain controls look there , awesome job


Thanks.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Going to put the USB ports here...only makes sense to have them beside the power port.


----------



## DLO13 (Oct 24, 2010)

Great build. Amp rack is sick. I think you could pull off the glass... You got it.


----------



## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Agreed with above. Your amp rack shows some skills. No reason u can't do fiberglass.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks for the votes of confidence everyone.
I'm going to build the sub boxes myself....if I get crazy I may try building a fibreglass box later on, but right now, I'm kinda gettin burnt out, and still have no tunes yet.
I hate to cut corners...but building the sub boxes is something that can easily be changed without having to rip the truck part like it was.
Plus...I will have tunes WHILE I build the next set of boxes for it.

One big question I have that is buggin me is why is it that if I build a box that isn't a rectangle, the tuning is going to be all screwed up?
Building a port is going to be very difficult if the bottom of the sub box follows the seat mount, and floor profile.
What if I used 4" round PVC and cut it, or them to different lengths? It would be easier to change the tuned frequency with swapping out the length if PVC than destroying the box to change the port...


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

THE PSYCHOACOUSTICS PSYCHOPORT
Adjustable aero ports. His website is down for retooling but I can contact him if you are really interested. Not the cheapest price but high quality made to what you want.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Not quite what I was looking for....interesting though, that's for sure.

I'm playing around with "WinISD alpha" and am trying to figure out just what the hell I'm supposed to be looking at or for...

If I select my JL Audio 12W7 sub, and a 60L box, 750 watts of power, and a tune of 35Hz...it's telling me that it will put out 119.173dB @ 45.28Hz with a vent diameter of 14.00cm X 8.20cm X 37.88cm long.

-Why don't the port dimensions ever change? I can select whatever size I want...the program just makes the length longer or shorter...

It just seems that other boxes have MASSIVE sized ports with looooong port lengths in them.

-What air velocity should I try to avoid?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

USB cable connector installed...




























Had to remove a fake plug behind this panel too...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I would have liked to have had some kind of front cover on the ports, but the panel is too thick.
Any additional thickness, and the USB cable being plugged in won't fit properly without the holes being bigger yet. (I tried to keep them as small as possible.)

Got the GPS antenna routed tonight, and color matched to the dash.

Picked up some longer mounting screws for the HU, as the screws that come with it are far too short to use with the plastic install bracket kit.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Ok so I have run into a wall here...

Everything powered up. (Both amps, 6 to 8, HU)
All 6 preouts from HU hooked into the Mosconi.

INPUTS to Mosconi are as follows:

CH 1&2 = 6.5" HAT Clarus mids. (Because on the JL 450/4v2 CH 1&2 are 150watts each, and 3&4 are only 75 watts watch) (Front preout signals)

CH 3&4 = HAT Clarus tweeters. (Rear preout signals)

CH 5&6 = Sub signal

OUTPUTS from Mosconi:

CH1&2 = mids. (CH 1&2 on the JL450/4 v2)
CH3&4 = tweeters (CH 3&4 on the JL450/4 v2)
CH5&6 = not used.
CH7&8 = subs. (JL 1000/1v2)

Used laptop to connect to the DSP.
Uploaded the previous settings.(used Mosconi 6 to 8)

To make things simple, I thought I would just work on the mids first...just to get something working.
I selected 100% signal for channels 1 & 2 on the input/output.
I changed the crossovers to flat...just to get started.
Gains are set to -3

Results in no output at all.
Tried to increase the volume on the HU, DSP remote display, gains on the amps...nothing.

Yes there is a disk playing.
No, the status light is not flashing. (Not in auto mute)
No, the amps are not in protect mode.

I'm off to work again, but this will bother me all week for sure...

I already know that when I come home again, I will bypass the DSP completely with another set of cables, and run them straight from the HU to the amp.

Start there I guess.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

HAHA!!!!!!!

I think I found my issue with the "no output".

Check out this picture I blew up...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Well that wasn't the issue.
And after reading the manual, the amp protects itself against anything that an idiot may experience by cutting the power output, and throwing one of the lights on.

So, I will try to disconnect the speaker output wires from the amp, and see if anything changes as far as output.

I have proved that from the HU all the way through the DSP, and the last set of RCA. Cables works fine...it's definitely the amp.

I'm going to try to walk through the settings once again, and maybe it will work.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

On a happy note, I scored another brand new JL 450/4v2 last night!

Googled the same search I have been using for the last couple months, and got a new hit that wasn't there before...
At first I thought the post would have been dated back to like 2011, like the rest of them...but it was yesterday's date!
Contacted the seller, and bought it as soon as we agreed on a price.
He sent the tracking number to me this morning.
Can't wait to have this system completely finished!


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Issue with the amp was just a setting on one of the switches. (Just can't get at them very easy any more.

Changed the tweeter stand offs to the 3/4" copper pipe with a sprocket gear at the bottom.


----------



## LBaudio (Jan 9, 2009)

if you are looking for high quality Aeroports maybe I can help visit my e-site:

5″ Aeroport | LBaudio

For your W7 5" aeroport is what you need, 4" is on the small side.
I only fabricate 5" and 8" aeroports since they were not avaliable nowhere at the time .....


----------



## steppinrazer (Jun 29, 2011)

glad you got the amp sorted out..
Where is the 2nd 450/4 going in?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

steppinrazer said:


> glad you got the amp sorted out..
> Where is the 2nd 450/4 going in?


The second 1000/1v2 will be powering the second 12W7, and the second 450/4v2 will be running mid bass, and center channel. (150 x 3)

The new amps will be mounted on the center console/sub boxes and be using more copper tubing for the power and speaker connections. (At least you will be able to see all the work involved.)


----------



## SO20thCentury (Sep 18, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Changed the tweeter stand offs to the 3/4" copper pipe with a sprocket gear at the bottom.


PIC please! Really like the bedknob pods. Gotta show more of that copper tubing with the next amp, though.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

SO20thCentury said:


> PIC please! Really like the bedknob pods. Gotta show more of that copper tubing with the next amp, though.


I get a pic in a bit.

The other amps will be in the open...nothing hiding them, except the tint on the windows.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

SO20thCentury said:


> PIC please! Really like the bedknob pods. Gotta show more of that copper tubing with the next amp, though.


Here is a picture of the second go round of these tweeters and the stand offs.


----------



## stern1272 (Jan 30, 2012)

Those look cool. How do they look when the door is closed. Do they tuck in next the the a-pillar nicely ? They really look sweet.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Yeah, they look ok I guess.

They will be changed out for the new HAT L1 R2's in the next few weeks...or when I can make some kind of new pod for them, since I can't seem to find any Headshok pods for them, and no one is confessing to wanting to sell the pods they have.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Yeah, they look ok I guess.
> 
> They will be changed out for the new HAT L1 R2's in the next few weeks...or when I can make some kind of new pod for them, since I can't seem to find any Headshok pods for them, and no one is confessing to wanting to sell the pods they have.


Did you get my pm?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Did you get my pm?


I did, thank you.
I have not got a response from the seller to the question, "Will the HAT L1 R2 fit these pods?"

Unless I know for certain that they will fit, I don't want to buy them.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> I did, thank you.
> I have not got a response from the seller to the question, "Will the HAT L1 R2 fit these pods?"
> 
> Unless I know for certain that they will fit, I don't want to buy them.


Oh cool, I have the HAT L1 Pros in these pods: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...l1-pro-tweeters-aluminum-pods-door-sails.html


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Oh cool, I have the HAT L1 Pros in these pods: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...l1-pro-tweeters-aluminum-pods-door-sails.html


The pods you used are a tear drop shape. The other ones have a funny looking dimple on the back, and it looks like the wires don't pass through the mounting bolt, but through the outside of the housing. (I may be mistaken though)

If you have a set with the tear drop shape, and they will fit the HAT L1 R2 tweeters, PM me your paypal address, and I will send payment right away.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> The pods you used are a tear drop shape. The other ones have a funny looking dimple on the back, and it looks like the wires don't pass through the mounting bolt, but through the outside of the housing. (I may be mistaken though)
> 
> If you have a set with the tear drop shape, and they will fit the HAT L1 R2 tweeters, PM me your paypal address, and I will send payment right away.


Sorry, I don't have any right now. I was just trying to help you find some... 

I might have some available in a couple weeks, but I don't know of the style, finish or condition yet, so I don't want to make any commitments until I have them in my hands.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Sorry, I don't have any right now. I was just trying to help you find some...
> 
> I might have some available in a couple weeks, but I don't know of the style, finish or condition yet, so I don't want to make any commitments until I have them in my hands.


Gotcha, that's cool.


----------



## jdsoldger (Feb 14, 2012)

WinISD will only change the port length. It works with the area (the height and width) you give it and figures out how long the port needs to be. The bigger the area, the lower the air velocity in the port, but the longer the port needs to be.

Round or square ports don't make a huge difference. All that matters in the long run is port area and length. Whatever shape you want to use to get there is up to you.

Hope that helps! This build is amazing so far and I look forward to watching it continue.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

jdsoldger said:


> WinISD will only change the port length. It works with the area (the height and width) you give it and figures out how long the port needs to be. The bigger the area, the lower the air velocity in the port, but the longer the port needs to be.
> 
> Round or square ports don't make a huge difference. All that matters in the long run is port area and length. Whatever shape you want to use to get there is up to you.
> 
> Hope that helps! This build is amazing so far and I look forward to watching it continue.


Thank you. 
Yes playing with the program really helps you get familiar with what has to happen for port tuning. (To keep the velocity down.)


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Can't leave well enough alone...
Changing out the Clarus 61-2 components to a set of HAT L6SE mid bass drivers, and changing the tweeters to a set of L1 Pro R2's in aluminum pods.

L6 SE's from "Huckleberry Sound"
Tweeters from "Highly"
Pods coming from "DavidRam"


----------



## jdsoldger (Feb 14, 2012)

Extended Power said:


> Thank you.
> Yes playing with the program really helps you get familiar with what has to happen for port tuning. (To keep the velocity down.)


Yup! I was going to put it in the last post but forgot. I hear rules of thumb for port velocty anywhere between 15m/s all the way up to 40m/s. I have yet to find a good answer. I have one set of speakers I built from a kit that model as having around 40m/s, but they are rear ported and I don't hear any chuffing. When I am doing designs, I try to stay between 20 and 25 based on the peak power that the subs can handle. But I have not actually built any ported sub boxes yet, so I don't know if that is any good.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The box I came up with has a port velocity of 17.5m/s at 750 watts, and 21.5m/s at 1000 watts.
Was wondering if having the port facing the back wall, and the sub facing down, are going to make any issues. (Also at opposite ends of the box as well.)


----------



## jdsoldger (Feb 14, 2012)

As long as the port isn't jammed right up against the wall it should be fine. Around the tuning frequency, most of the sound will be coming from the port, not the driver. If it is right up against the back wall you may end up with a longer port than you thought?

The port velocity should be fine. Maybe round over the outlet and inlet with a router?

Also, I wouldn't fret about getting everything exactly right. The individual drivers can vary in parameters by anywhere between 5 and 20% from what I have seen. Nevermind that the temperature and humidity will affect the air density and the tuning, as well as the suspention on the driver.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The port exit will be rounded off, and about 5" from the amp rack.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The port exit will be rounded off, and about 5" from the amp rack.
I'm going to double up the back wall of the box, so I can use a 1 1/2" round over bit on it.

The inside overall length of the box is 35.5", so I can run a 32.75" length port wall, and maintain the 2.75" port height all the way along the top of the box without any need for corners, or bends.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Some sub box pictures...

Test fitting the side panels to the floor shape...









Weird angle on the seat bracket...
But it shows how much room is available for the box. (Sub is upside down....it will be down firing right where it is.)









Here is where I was test fitting the kerfed top piece, and adding vents for the sub to breathe..









Vent trim piece positioned...









Vent screen mesh that I will use...









The specs of the box are 2.83ft3, tuned to 32Hz, port velocity max of 19.72m/s at 30.85Hz, and at 750 watts.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Don't know if I should try to "press" the mesh to shape, or just install it flat like in the picture?
I can try to fit it between the trim piece, but then if I press it...it will be level with the trim piece...
I like the way the mesh looks deep into the box...not flush with the front of the trim...

Thoughts?

For my first box, I think it's coming along ok.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Don't know if I should try to "press" the mesh to shape, or just install it flat like in the picture?
> I can try to fit it between the trim piece, but then if I press it...it will be level with the trim piece...
> I like the way the mesh looks deep into the box...not flush with the front of the trim...
> 
> ...


I vote for flat, recessed in, like pictured. Holy smokes man, that box is looking amazing!


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> I vote for flat, recessed in, like pictured. Holy smokes man, that box is looking amazing!


Thank you!
I will add some LEDs, and have them glow through the vents too.
....just keeping it simple....:laugh:

I could have saved months of work if I would have known the seats didn't tilt forward past straight up.....cuz with the sub box in place...you can't see anything but 18 inches of the heat sinks on the amp rack...and the blue glow when it's lit up.

Everything is on hold now for a couple weeks.....time for a vacation with the fam.


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Thank you!
> I will add some LEDs, and have them glow through the vents too.
> ....just keeping it simple....:laugh:
> 
> ...


As long as they're BLUE leds, lol! Can't wait to see the tweeters...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> As long as they're BLUE leds, lol! Can't wait to see the tweeters...


Yes, they will be blue.

I have confirmation of the pods being delivered, as well as the HAT L6SE's...just waiting for the oscilloscope to arrive.

I'm gonna be gone for awhile, but will still check in here while on holidays.
If I'm lucky, my mother and father-in law will be able to pick them all up on their way back from Arizona. (Snowbirds)


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Update: I'm back from holidays, and my mother and father in law only picked up two of the three packages for me...
Good news is the two packages were the HAT L6SE mid bass drivers, and the aluminum pods I bought for the HAT Pro LR2's.

I think I figured out a way to get the tweeters to stay in the pods, but won't know for sure until I tackle them later on.
Right now, I wanna finish the sub box. I had lots of time to think of how I was going to finish it, and now have a great idea for it!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Update: I'm back from holidays, and my mother and father in law only picked up two of the three packages for me...
> Good news is the two packages were the HAT L6SE mid bass drivers, and the aluminum pods I bought for the HAT Pro LR2's.
> 
> I think I figured out a way to get the tweeters to stay in the pods, but won't know for sure until I tackle them later on.
> Right now, I wanna finish the sub box. I had lots of time to think of how I was going to finish it, and now have a great idea for it!


Cool. Looking forward to some pics


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

My goodness it's hard to find anything around this city...
I have been to 5 different stores looking for a 3/4" round over router bit.
Ended up having to order one in...then got the story of "I really have no idea how long it will take to come in...."
So I came home, jumped onto the internet, and ordered one myself...for $15.00 cheaper.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Back to work tomorrow again. Boooo....
Didn't get much of anything done since coming back from holidays....and with spring here, I have a huge "Honey-do" list of yard work.

I can't believe I worked on this thing all winter, and haven't finished it yet.
Oh well....it's a hobby for a reason I guess.

When I get back next week, I hope to be able to get the sub box all glued together, and dropped off for coating.
Then get the sub installed, along with the LEDs, and put it in the truck.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

New equipment pictures...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I changed my mind on what mesh I am going to use on the sub box vents...

Old mesh...










New mesh...










Gonna try to paint it copper...see what kindofa mess I can make...


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> New equipment pictures...


Yep those are gorgeous!!! You have a helluva camera, too, those pictures are crazy clear. What camera is that?


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> I changed my mind on what mesh I am going to use on the sub box vents...
> 
> Old mesh...
> 
> ...


I see what you are doing there... and that mesh matches the tweeters. :thumbsup:


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Samsung, galaxy 5s Active. It's a 16meg pixel camera...and as long as your steady, they are pretty damn clear.
We took my GoPro, our 12 meg pixel digital camera, and both our phones on our Europe trip...
Wife dropped and broke the digital camera on like day 4, and since the GoPro doesn't have a screen to see how the pictures turned out, we were left with the phone cameras.
They all turned out great.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> I see what you are doing there... and that mesh matches the tweeters. :thumbsup:


.....honestly.....I never even seen that until you pointed it out...I mean....yeah...that's what I was going for there...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Lol!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

....nother setback last night...:bigcry:
I was making trim pieces for the inside portion of the vent screens using the outside trim pieces as templates, and the damn bearing on the router bit came loose...destroyed the front trim piece completely.

...it couldn't of been one of the side trim pieces, because they are exactly the same, and to make another one, is easy to do..no, no...let's **** up the 1 of 1, and have to redo both outside and inside pieces again...

...I'll be glad when this box is finished....


----------



## deeppinkdiver (Feb 4, 2011)

Dang... Bad day there! Sorry to hear. Hang in there man, its all worth it in the end


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

deeppinkdiver said:


> Dang... Bad day there! Sorry to hear. Hang in there man, its all worth it in the end


Yeah, pretty much just shook my head, tossed the piece aside, and started to fill the screw holes in the box so they would dry over night.

Hope to have a better day today....I'm soooo close to having the box done. I don't want to post pictures yet, as it would spoil the final outcome.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Well with the last "Test fit" I now know what I'm doing next winter....

Moving the amp rack to the box of the truck...

There isn't a single bit of the amp rack visible with the sub box installed. (Other than the soft blue glow from the LEDs)

Ford was ingenious when they designed the rear buckets to tilt no further than straight up.
I have no idea how you could get anything back there with even the stock console...

Anyways, about the only way anyone will ever be able to see anything right now is if I pull one seat out...or two...

Thought about making the rear seats tilt forward some how...maybe hinged off a set of pins or something.

Adjustments to the amps are absolutely impossible with the sub box in place, so I will have to make all the settings before the box is mounted.

Who said you ever needed a plan? Lol


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Well with the last "Test fit" I now know what I'm doing next winter....
> 
> Moving the amp rack to the box of the truck...
> 
> ...


Screw that. The amp rack is too nice to let the sub phuck up the plan. 

I would re design the enclosure. 

Just my opinion.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The amp rack should just bolt up to the box, just like it did to the wall. (I made it easy to remove "IF" I ever had to do such a thing.
It would remain the same, all the copper would still be there...only you would be able to see everything, not just a small amount.

The sub box is big, uses up all the space between the seats, and on the floor...
Don't really want to change the design, as I had a granite piece made to sit on the top of the box. (Not exactly cheap)

Guess I'm just disappointed that none of the work I did is visible to anyone who looks at it in person.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Once all the settings are configured on the amps, read gain settings, I shouldn't need to adjust anything on them, correct?
Anything left to fiddle with should be strictly on the DSP, correct?

Back to the, "I only wanna do this once" statement....waiting for the new to me DSP before I can set any of the amps.....

JL suggests setting the subsonic filter to 25hz with a ported box...but using WinISD, it looks like going down to 20 would still protect the sub from over excursion.
The box I built was built/tuned to about 31-32Hz.
I wanna set it, and forget it...


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> The amp rack should just bolt up to the box, just like it did to the wall. (I made it easy to remove "IF" I ever had to do such a thing.
> It would remain the same, all the copper would still be there...only you would be able to see everything, not just a small amount.
> 
> The sub box is big, uses up all the space between the seats, and on the floor...
> ...





Extended Power said:


> Once all the settings are configured on the amps, read gain settings, I shouldn't need to adjust anything on them, correct?
> Anything left to fiddle with should be strictly on the DSP, correct?
> 
> Back to the, "I only wanna do this once" statement....waiting for the new to me DSP before I can set any of the amps.....
> ...


As far as the granite goes, I am sure with your creativity you could make it work in a redesign. 

As far as not having access to the amps, I am not a fan of that at all. What about access to the DSP? I am a tinkerer. I play with the amps far more than I ever play with the sub. I mean really, after you wire up the sub what the heck do you need to touch it for? 


But...... If you can make it work in the bed of the truck then I guess that works but I know that my work truck bed is absolutely not where I would want my amps and stuff. Even though I have a utility topper on it i still get water in there some how. 


So if you are dead set on keeping the sub enclosure design then I would say keep the amp rack where it is too but get creative with a way to make the seats move-able to be able to view your fantastic work back there.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

ndm said:


> As far as the granite goes, I am sure with your creativity you could make it work in a redesign.
> 
> As far as not having access to the amps, I am not a fan of that at all. What about access to the DSP? I am a tinkerer. I play with the amps far more than I ever play with the sub. I mean really, after you wire up the sub what the heck do you need to touch it for?
> 
> ...


I have the cable for the DSP hooked up at all times. (Not easy to hook up, but do-able.)
My truck is no longer a work truck...I baby it more than anything else I own.
The amp rack will stay, and like you said, I will find a way to make the seats tilt out of the way so I can make adjustments, or just show it off.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Next question...
Should I keep the location of the tweeters up high, or move them down to where the new pod is?
I can't go with what sounds better because the system isn't finished yet. (Are they ever?)
The pods would be easier to install on the window sill area, but I might be able to use the copper in the higher mount area.

Thoughts?


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

You clearly are coming up with original ideas. Make the seats flip forward as you suggested. It would be relatively easy to do if you just make floor mounting brackets flip up with a quick release like a two door car.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Next question...
> Should I keep the location of the tweeters up high, or move them down to where the new pod is?
> I can't go with what sounds better because the system isn't finished yet. (Are they ever?)
> The pods would be easier to install on the window sill area, but I might be able to use the copper in the higher mount area.
> ...


Could you post a picture of the two tweeter location options?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Next question...
> Should I keep the location of the tweeters up high, or move them down to where the new pod is?
> I can't go with what sounds better because the system isn't finished yet. (Are they ever?)
> The pods would be easier to install on the window sill area, but I might be able to use the copper in the higher mount area.
> ...


Totally forgot to post the picture....
Not doing much yesterday out in the shop...my 23rd wedding anniversary...to the same woman!

Yes, here is the picture:


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Maybe try the lower spot where the new pod is with some double sided tape for a while, and see how it sounds?
Congrats on 23 years! If I add up the years from all three of my marriages, it still doesn't add up to much... Lol!


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Maybe try the lower spot where the new pod is with some double sided tape for a while, and see how it sounds?
> Congrats on 23 years! If I add up the years from all three of my marriages, it still doesn't add up to much... Lol!


I can do that...I just didn't wanna see the speaker wire...which meant drilling a hole through the door panel.
Yes...simple fix...just use the tape, and try it.
I am over thinking everything now.

And thank you.:beerchug:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Hey ndm, have you ever measured the low signal outputs on your 991HD? 
I measured mine and while playing a 1000hz tone, I was able to crank the volume knob all the way to 35 without any clipping.
It wasn't a 5 volt signal though...


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Hey ndm, have you ever measured the low signal outputs on your 991HD?
> I measured mine and while playing a 1000hz tone, I was able to crank the volume knob all the way to 35 without any clipping.
> It wasn't a 5 volt signal though...


Well I dont remember what voltage it was but I do remember that I was able to get the sub output to clip by turning the output of the sub level up in the audio menu. 

Caviat.....

I o not remember if I was testing for clipping at the head unit or whether I was testing clipping at the DSP. My DSP pro as a max input voltage of 4 volt low level and the kenwood output is about 5 volts. 


Now I seem to recall that the max signal I was able to get out of the kenwood was like 4.6volts. That is not definitive. I tested it really quickly. 4 volts is more than enough in my opinion.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Here is what I got. 3.40vac
I only measured the front RCA's, as I had to run out.

I'm using a 1000hZ at 0db for the mids, 4000hZ at 0db for the tweets, and a 40hZ at -5db for the sub amp.

Picked up another Mosconi 6to8, but the v8 model.

Trying to get all the gains set before I install the rear seats yet again.


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Here is what I got. 3.40vac
> I only measured the front RCA's, as I had to run out.
> 
> I'm using a 1000hZ at 0db for the mids, 4000hZ at 0db for the tweets, and a 40hZ at -5db for the sub amp.
> ...



I am using 30 as my sweet spot so as to have some space to make up for weak recordings. Make sure all head unit processing is off and eq is flat. Also I am using the sub at 0db. That gives room up and down depending on my preference. 

I do miss having a quick sub level control like I had on the 6to8v8 android app. I would prefer to leave all hrad unit settings alone and use the app for day in day out adjustments. 

Oh well. Maybe the drc for the dsp pro will be out soon.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

ndm said:


> I am using 30 as my sweet spot so as to have some space to make up for weak recordings. Make sure all head unit processing is off and eq is flat. Also I am using the sub at 0db. That gives room up and down depending on my preference.
> 
> I do miss having a quick sub level control like I had on the 6to8v8 android app. I would prefer to leave all hrad unit settings alone and use the app for day in day out adjustments.
> 
> Oh well. Maybe the drc for the dsp pro will be out soon.


Yes, I went back and made sure everything was flat as well.
On the DSP screen it says "Bypass", not "Through", so I'm guessing the signal is bypassing the internal DSP of the 991.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Swapped out the Clarus 61-2 component set today.
Didn't take much to fit them in the doors....easy.
The tweeters took a bit more, but I still have to grow a set, and drill another hole through the door panel...
Damn they sound nice!!!
Switched out the older 4 volt model of 6 to 8 for the 8 volt model a couple days ago, but never set it up as far as voltages go.
Found that the 4.3volts out of the HU was too much for the input...had to dial the inputs down way too much, so I just dropped the volume down to 33 out of 35 on the HU, and ran test tones to set the inputs to the 6to8.
Also set the RDC for the Mosconi to 34 and set the voltages on the amps again.
I had to change the input voltage selection on the 450/4v2 to high, as it would not back down far enough for the recommended voltage. (On channels 1,2,3,& 4)

Had music playin as I was mounting the mids inside the doors....unreal how much bass is created when they are secured to the doors, and not holding them in your hand.

Popped in a high pass filter of 60hz for the mids, and 2500 for the tweeters.
I could take the volume to 35(max) on the RDC, with no distortion, or rattles...and it sounded great!
Even after I dropped the high pass for the mids down to 55 hz.


----------



## mooch91 (Apr 6, 2008)

Extended Power said:


> Swapped out the Clarus 61-2 component set today.
> Didn't take much to fit them in the doors....easy.
> The tweeters took a bit more, but I still have to grow a set, and drill another hole through the door panel...
> Damn they sound nice!!!
> ...


Anxious to see how you find the fit on these in the doors after a while, and if you come up with any alternative ways to mount. I'm convinced the surrounds on my 6.5s make contact with the back of the door panel when I spaced them out similarly. 










Also interested to hear what kind of frequency response you get from those doors. I've been having some issues, maybe there's something for me to learn from your sealing/deadening techniques.

Looks great!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Looks great! Can't wait to see the tweeters mounted. Doesn't the under side of the pod have a groove in that plate, and would there be any way to not have to drill a hole in the door panel, but rather tuck the wire down through the opening by the window or the crack by the sail???


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Looks great! Can't wait to see the tweeters mounted. Doesn't the under side of the pod have a groove in that plate, and would there be any way to not have to drill a hole in the door panel, but rather tuck the wire down through the opening by the window or the crack by the sail???


Yeah....but I would still see it, as the pod will hit the glass before it is far enough back to not see it.
Not a big deal, as I don't plan on moving them anywhere else...so they can stay there.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

mooch91 said:


> Anxious to see how you find the fit on these in the doors after a while, and if you come up with any alternative ways to mount. I'm convinced the surrounds on my 6.5s make contact with the back of the door panel when I spaced them out similarly.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wanted to do custom door panels, but I'm out of money for this project.
There is still room between the speaker and the door panel...the panel does not rest on the speaker at all.
I have them running at 55hz and up, and don't have any distortion at all.
The doors are SOLID...no rattles or vibrations at all. I'm Very Happy!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Yeah....but I would still see it, as the pod will hit the glass before it is far enough back to not see it.
> Not a big deal, as I don't plan on moving them anywhere else...so they can stay there.


Yep, my idea was a shot in the dark... lol.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I love those pods though, I'm glad you had them, and sold them to me.
I wouldn't of had any other way to mount them.
Thanks again!:beerchug:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Just coated the sub box....hope the coating dries lighter than this, as it's no where near the factory "Arizona Biege" color of my truck...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Sub box looks super clean! Glad you like those pods, you gotta let me know your trick for securing the tweeters inside them, I'm curious.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Sub box looks super clean! Glad you like those pods, you gotta let me know your trick for securing the tweeters inside them, I'm curious.


Sent you a PM.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Doubled up 12ga wire for the sub leads.



















Sub installed into the box finally.

-disappointed in the color, as it is not the same as what was sprayed in for my box liner, or the bottom color of the truck.
-might just have to spray paint it now, but the durability of paint is no where near as durable as this stuff.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Sent you a PM.


Got it! That's a great idea... 

I tried like 10 different things, until I finally cut and shaped a plastic ring that screws into the pod and then the tweeter screws into the plastic ring. DONE


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Sub box with LED's and granite top installed.

Had it hooked up yesterday just to make sure everything was ok...and OH BoY!!! Is it ever!!!










Lights out....



















Ran out of cap head bolts, but it can install them before it goes into the truck, hopefully tomorrow!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

What an AMAZING build…that box must flat out rock!!! 

I have ALWAYS wanted to incorporate some granite either into the baffle or top of a sub box build and now am even more inspired by your build to do so!!


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> Got it! That's a great idea...
> 
> I tried like 10 different things, until I finally cut and shaped a plastic ring that screws into the pod and then the tweeter screws into the plastic ring. DONE


Care to share??


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Sub box with LED's and granite top installed.
> 
> Had it hooked up yesterday just to make sure everything was ok...and OH BoY!!! Is it ever!!!
> 
> ...




Wow, that thing is awesome man!!! 






seafish said:


> Care to share??


The details or the actual ring?


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> The details or the actual ring?


Just the details, I can make the ring…still trying to decide how to fit the Illusion tweeter in to the smaller pods/spheres I got from you, but any and all ideas are welcomed of course!!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> Just the details, I can make the ring…still trying to decide how to fit the Illusion tweeter in to the smaller pods/spheres I got from you, but any and all ideas are welcomed of course!!!


Have you ever seen those rolls of plastic wrap that are used to wrap pallets, furniture, etc.? They come with these black plastic caps in the ends so you can wrap quickly without burning your hands from the friction. 
Well, I have a few of those caps and I cut 1/2" rings out of them. The rings were to large a diameter so I cut open the ring and snipped it until it was exactly the right diameter to fit inside the pod. I filed it until it was slightly angle and put it inside the pod, the tweeter screwed right in, nice and tight and perfectly centered. 

Stretch Film Pallet Shrink Wrap Hand Saver Protector Dispenser Black Color | eBay

Honestly, any fexible plastic lid will work as long as it has the right thickness... Peanut butter jar lid?!  What is the diameter of your tweeter and the pod opening, preferably in millimeters??? Maybe I can find something. This sounds really silly, but it works and it's very solid.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

DavidRam said:


> Have you ever seen those rolls of plastic wrap that are used to wrap pallets, furniture, etc.? They come with these black plastic caps in the ends so you can wrap quickly without burning your hands from the friction.
> Well, I have a few of those caps and I cut 1/2" rings out of them. The rings were to large a diameter so I cut open the ring and snipped it until it was exactly the right diameter to fit inside the pod. I filed it until it was slightly angle and put it inside the pod, the tweeter screwed right in, nice and tight and perfectly centered.
> 
> 
> Honestly, any fexible plastic lid will work as long as it has the right thickness... Peanut butter jar lid?!  What is the diameter of your tweeter and the pod opening, preferably in millimeters??? Maybe I can find something. This sounds really silly, but it works and it's very solid.


Cool idea…I'll look into it…maybe just wrap electrical tape around the threads of the tweeter until it is the right diameter…I LOVE electrical tape for odd uses..it's not near as handy as duct tape, but for somethings works just right!!!


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

seafish said:


> Cool idea…I'll look into it…maybe just wrap electrical tape around the threads of the tweeter until it is the right diameter…I LOVE electrical tape for odd uses..it's not near as handy as duct tape, but for somethings works just right!!!


Lol! That was my second to last attempt before the plastic ring fix. I wrapped a ton of electrical tape around the tweeters and sorta pressed and screwed them in. 
At first it seemed ok, but I noticed that the tweeters would start to come out a little bit and I kept having to push and screw them back in. Maybe the tape was expanding from the heat of the sun? I don't know...


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

seafish said:


> What an AMAZING build…that box must flat out rock!!!
> 
> I have ALWAYS wanted to incorporate some granite either into the baffle or top of a sub box build and now am even more inspired by your build to do so!!



Thank you for the kind words.

I'm working on the cup holders now.
The shop that cut the top for me must of used a 75mm bit, instead of a 76mm bit.
I have to modify the cup holders I bought awhile ago to fit inside the cutouts in the granite.

















I cut just over 1/2" off the bottoms as I thought they were too deep...and I wanted the LED light to come through the bottoms of the cup holders.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Kinda what I'm after...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got my son to help install the box tonight.
Mother of gawd that ***** is heavy!
Hooked up, and tested.
With the HU at 32 out of 35, and the DSP volume at 20 out of 35, there are NO rattles on the outside of the cab at all.
Super happy about that!!!
Inside, the sound is way better in the front seats than the rear, but that is to be expected since the are no speakers, except for the 12" woofer between the rear seats.
Had to call it quits for the day, as the neighbour is a cranky old ****, and has probably been in bed for a couple hours already, and I didn't want any reason for him to have to come over, and tell me to turn it down. (And my boy has school tomorrow.)

I'll have pictures of it installed tomorrow. (The LEDs are very bright...I like it.)

After I get the front stock center console back in, I can start to tune 'er up!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Awesome! Post up lots of pics!


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

Extended Power said:


> After I get the front stock center console back in, I can start to tune 'er up!


Hopefully with Autosound discs?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> Hopefully with Autosound discs?


I got an email the other day notifying me that "The Package" has indeed arrived down at the border.
I just gotta run down and pick them up. (It's a 4 hour round trip.)

Just haven't had the time to drive down this past week with my daughters grad, and my sons birthday.

Very much appreciate you sending me them. :beerchug:

And I can't wait to use them.


----------



## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

:beerchug: Labbatt?

You have to pick cross border deliveries up? They don't bring it to your door?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> :beerchug: Labbatt?
> 
> You have to pick cross border deliveries up? They don't bring it to your door?


I live in Alberta, Canada, and I get everything shipped to Sweet Grass, Montana.
I drive down almost twice a month usually.
Getting anything shipped across the border instantly doubles the shipping charges, and then customs can keep it for however long they want before sending it on its way, then there is brokerage fees, etc.

I bring the stuff across, pay the duty, and drive home....done.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Sub box installed, and lit up.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

So....time alignment....

Since the passenger side mid is the furthest away at 62 inches, it is set to 0. (Zero delay)
The passenger tweeter is 60" away, so 1.9" (0.14ms delay)
Driver side mid is 43" away...so 19.2" (1.42ms delay)
Driver side tweeter is 33" away, so 28.1" (2.08ms delay)

I haven't done the sub yet, but, does the above measurements/delays look right? (It seemed to bring the sound to right in front of me, instead of "off to the sides")

There is no EQ at all...everything is flat.


----------



## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Extended Power said:


> Sub box installed, and lit up.


Seriously NICE design and install !!!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

That thing is awesome! I love how it turned out. How did you do your time alignment?


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> That thing is awesome! I love how it turned out. How did you do your time alignment?


Ribbon tape measure secured to the end of an old ringette stick...so I could touch the center of the speakers, and hold the other end to my ears.:blush:

Desperate times.....:laugh:


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

seafish said:


> Seriously NICE design and install !!!


Thank you!


----------



## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Ribbon tape measure secured to the end of an old ringette stick...so I could touch the center of the speakers, and hold the other end to my ears.:blush:
> 
> Desperate times.....:laugh:


Lol! Did you use one of these programs or did you do it by ear?

http://tracerite.com/calc.html

http://theguitarforum.net/ta/


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Lol! Did you use one of these programs or did you do it by ear?
> 
> http://tracerite.com/calc.html
> 
> http://theguitarforum.net/ta/


Neither, but I just plugged the numbers into the first one, and they came out pretty much the same as what I got.

All I had to do is go into the "Delay" tab of the Mosconi software, and slide the bars up until the distance was what I got, and it automatically set the delay time for me.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Well the output of this system is very nice.
I have not started tuning it yet, but have a question....

When I set my gains, I found that the HU could be cranked right up to 35 on the volume, and the signal was not clipped set all.

The issue was that the Mosconi did not like the full 4.3 volts that I measured, and would cut out.
So, I backed the volume down to 32 or 33 and set the input gains on the DSP.
Moving onto the mids, I used a 1k hz @ 0db test tone, and set the voltage.
Using a 4k hz @ 0db test tone, I set the tweeter voltage.
The subs.....I used a 40 hz @ -5db test tone, and set the voltage.

I can now listen to anything with the volume of the HU at 32, and the DSP remote at full volume with no distortion. (Bass I can control with the remote bass knob in the dash, and on the DSP)

I can't help but feel there is more left on the table for sound/volume...true?


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Well the output of this system is very nice.
> I have not started tuning it yet, but have a question....
> 
> When I set my gains, I found that the HU could be cranked right up to 35 on the volume, and the signal was not clipped set all.
> ...



You could have used 0db for tweets, -5db for mid and -10 for sub... 
That would get you a little bit more. 

Also remember. When you dial the time and phase alignment in you might notice an improvement in the perceived volume level. 

I say get to tuning and try it out first. If you still need more then address it later.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Swapped out the Optima yellow tops today...after seeing that they were only holding 11.8-12.0 volts while ripping down the highway...and after three sets of red tops, and three separate yellow tops over the last six years total...they had their chance.

"Say hollow to mai litto friend!"


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## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Swapped out the Optima yellow tops today...after seeing that they were only holding 11.8-12.0 volts while ripping down the highway...and after three sets of red tops, and three separate yellow tops over the last six years total...they had their chance.
> 
> "Say hollow to mai litto friend!"


Great batteries. I used to work for Enersys which is the company that made them. I had opportunities to buy those at a Stoop!d discount.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Ok, so I'm trying to think of a way to install my other two amps in the box of the truck.
If I use a smaller aluminum box, and somehow add ventilation, and a way for the amps to swing up for adjustment...what are your thoughts?

I was also thinking of making a box out of 3/4" MDF, and then spraying it the same texture and colour as the sub box...to seal water out of it.

Remember....the truck does not see winter, and usually the only time it gets wet is when it's being washed...or if I ventured out on a questionable cloudy day...so the box has to be somewhat water tight/proof. (Enough so the amps are not damaged.)


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/lever-operated-latch-8514-3064345.jpg

That style latch, aluminum box, thin tube style weather stripping between lid and box, lip around lid that over hangs main box, small weep holes in bottom that will allow airborne moisture build up to escape.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Theslaking said:


> http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/lever-operated-latch-8514-3064345.jpg
> 
> That style latch, aluminum box, thin tube style weather stripping between lid and box, lip around lid that over hangs main box, small weep holes in bottom that will allow airborne moisture build up to escape.


What about the heat generated by the amps?
How can I keep them cool?
I was thinking of computer fans mounted on the bottom of the box, so they draw air from the bottom, and circulate it up, and out.

....maybe use the lip around the top outside as the exit path somehow....


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I have this exact aluminum box right now. 








I had cut the spacers off the bottom, so it sat lower inside the box of the truck.

If I slide it all the way to the passenger side of the box, it may clear the on-board air compressor.

Then I could cut a fan into the side that is sheltered by the passenger side box rail, and somehow add another exit on top???


It's old, so I would want to spray the exterior of it anyways to match the box liner now.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

I don't think you would have to add a fan. I have had amps in spare tire wells for years with no problems. That job box is bigger than my wheel wells. However electronics do run longer if they run cool all the time so it can't hurt. Where it the on board air compressor? In the box?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

On board air is at the front of the box, drivers side corner.


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## Theslaking (Oct 8, 2013)

My reason for asking is that if there was an intake for the compressor in the box that would be more than enough additional airflow to keep a amp cool.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The aluminum box I have is too big. (Takes up way too much room)

I gotta make something that will fit two JL amps, and look good, while still allowing adjustment of the amps.

Here is what the box looks like....sorry for the ****ty lighting?


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Love this build. The equipment, the truck, and especially the install and fab work done so far. Very well done Sir. 
I have a 2010 F250 6.4 4x4. Trying to decide what direction u want to go with it. I'd love to make a center console/ seat enclosure. Watching this one for sure.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Bought an aluminum box that will fit all four of my amps, and still be able to make adjustments to them.










Lid up, and one of the amps peeking out:









Here you can see that the amp has all of 1/4" of side to side movement in the box.
Two amps will be stacked on the left, and two amps stacked on the right, with the heat sinks towards the side walls of the box, and the connections all facing the centre of the box.









Tons of room to make a false floor, and do all the power distribution under it.
I'm going to have the bottom two amps about 4" towards the center of the box, so you can see the power lights, and get at the connection screws.

I'm excited to start this!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

So this winter will have me pulling my present amp rack out, and redoing it all into the box shown.
Now, here is a list of my equipment/components...help me with how I should hook it all up. (Opinions) 

2- JL 450/4v2 (150 x 2 & 75 x 2, or 300 x 1 & 150 x 1)
2- JL 1000/1v2
2- JL 12W7 subs
4- L6SE mid bass drivers
2- L3SE midrange drivers
2- L1 ProR2 tweeters
2- Mosconi 6to8 processors (1v8 model, 1 older style. Only using one right now, but have the second for backup, or expansion)

My wife wants sound all around her too, so this isn't a sound competition setup.
There will be speakers in the rear doors, or rear pillars.


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## steppinrazer (Jun 29, 2011)

I hate to see that killer amp rack go, but I'm sure the next gen will be just as interesting!

In my opinion.. 

450 #1 
150 x2 on L6 front
75x2 on L6 rear /or L1's

450 #2
150x2 L3's
75x2 L1's/or L6 rear

3000 watts... why not


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

steppinrazer said:


> I hate to see that killer amp rack go, but I'm sure the next gen will be just as interesting!
> 
> In my opinion..
> 
> ...



Presently, I have 150 x 2 going to a set of L6SE in the front doors, and 75 x 2 going to the tweeters.
Don't even have the second set of amps in play yet.
If I could get those fancy pods from that eBay fella for the L3SE set, I'd run them in the front, on axis, and use the L1 ProR2's in the back, along with the second set of mids.

Or...leave the L6SE's in the front doors, make them mid bass, add the L3SE's up front as midrange, and leave the L1 ProR2's as tweeters....and just add the second set of L6SE's to the rear?


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## steppinrazer (Jun 29, 2011)

Extended Power said:


> Or...leave the L6SE's in the front doors, make them mid bass, add the L3SE's up front as midrange, and leave the L1 ProR2's as tweeters....and just add the second set of L6SE's to the rear?


That is what I was thinking..


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

steppinrazer said:


> That is what I was thinking..


Probably be the easiest to do too.


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## Basshertz1 (Jun 17, 2011)

Looking forward to seeing the new amp rack in the box, build on


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Then again....if I found one more 450/4v2.....I could do:

300 x 1 to the front left midbass
150 x 1 to the front left midrange.

300 x 1 to the front right midbass.
150 x 1 to the front right midrange.

150 x 1 to the rear left midbass.
150 x 1 to the rear right midbass.
75 x 1 to the rear left tweeter.
75 x 1 to the rear right tweeter.

Still run each 1000/1v2 amp to each sub.

Thoughts?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Have ordered a set of the pods for the L3se midrange speakers.
Waiting on delivery.
Looking for a new, or in perfect shape, JL Audio 450/4v2 amp.
Very slow process, as I am helping my son with his 72 Buick GS.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Pics of that Buick you guys are willing to share ?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Had a look...don't have any of the overall car itself.
It's sittin outside right now, I could take a quick pic.


Pics for you..




























It's not new that's for sure, but it will keep him broke for a few years.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

Hahaha, you just named marriage .....


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## LaydSierra (Aug 20, 2009)

I just read through the entire thread. That amp rack is/was awesome. What was the MLV you used & where did you source it? 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

LaydSierra said:


> I just read through the entire thread. That amp rack is/was awesome. What was the MLV you used & where did you source it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I got the MLV and CCF from Sound Deadener Showdown. 
I was lucky enough to buy the Dynamat off eBay from different sellers when it went on for a great price....it seems to have gone up a lot.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I picked my aluminum pods up today.
They are aluminum, with the swivel mounts.
They are AWESOME!


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## stern1272 (Jan 30, 2012)

Looks good.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Those pods are the tits !!! So is th Buick !


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

optimaprime said:


> Those pods are the tits !!! So is th Buick !


Thank you.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I can easily add the stock HAT grills with a small spacer.


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## DJSPANKY (Dec 15, 2009)

Extended Power said:


> Have ordered a set of the pods for the L3se midrange speakers.
> Waiting on delivery.
> Looking for a new, or in perfect shape, JL Audio 450/4v2 amp.
> Very slow process, as I am helping my son with his 72 Buick GS.


Where did you order the pods from? They look amazing!!!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DJSPANKY said:


> Where did you order the pods from? They look amazing!!!


From a fella on here. His eBay add has a thread on here too.
But this is the guy: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...69-i-sell-pods-speakers-housing-tweeters.html

Here is the other thread: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/ebay/206809-pillar-pods-8.html#post3298353


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got the grills and drivers mounted to see how they look with the grills.
I like them with the grills, even though I wanted to see the copper plug more than it is now...oh well...I like the contrast of the aluminum, and the black plastic grill mounts....they look like big gauges with the slight overhang of the plastic trim.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

When I come home again, I will pull the tweeters out, and try to get these mids mounted in the truck.
Now...what would be a good starting point for the crossovers between the HAT L6se's in the doors, which will now become my midbass, and these L3se's, which will be the midrange and up?
Presently, I believe the L6's are running from 70 to 2800hz...it might even be higher, I would have to look to be sure.
Tweeters were playing from the 2800 or 3200 up.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Got the grills and drivers mounted to see how they look with the grills.
> I like them with the grills, even though I wanted to see the copper plug more than it is now...oh well...I like the contrast of the aluminum, and the black plastic grill mounts....they look like big gauges with the slight overhang of the plastic trim.


Those look awesome!!! Btw, with your fabrication skills, you could easily cut out a circle or octagon in the center of the grille to show off the copper.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> Those look awesome!!! Btw, with your fabrication skills, you could easily cut out a circle or octagon in the center of the grille to show off the copper.


Thanks David.
...should I leave the pods the way they are, polish them, or ???


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Thanks David.
> ...should I leave the pods the way they are, polish them, or ???



I would leave them that brushed look... Also, polishing them might cause a glare problem from the sun and lights.


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

This is how it would look. I really like it.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got the drivers side mid-range installed.





























Pending how it sounds, I can still run the tweeters on the door.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Working on the passenger side this afternoon.

Passenger side done.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Ok, so I may have a line on another 450/4v2.
I'm thinking of setting them up as follows:

1st 450/4v2= Front left mid bass driver @ 300 watts. (Ch 1 & 2 bridged)
Front left midrange driver @ 75 watts. (Ch 3)
Front left tweeter @ 75 watts. (Ch 4)

2nd 450/4v2= Front right mid bass driver @ 300 watts. (Ch 1 & 2 bridged)
Front right midrange driver @ 75 watts. (Ch3)
Front right tweeter @ 75 watts. (Ch 4)

3rd 450/4v2= Rear left midrange @ 150 watts. (Ch1)
Rear right midrange @ 150 watts. (Ch2)
Rear left tweeter @ 75 watts. (Ch3)
Rear right tweeter @ 75 watts. (Ch4)

1st 1000/1v2= center mounted 12" sub. 

2nd 1000/1v2= front center console mounted 12" sub.


Thoughts?:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Stacked straight up:










Or staggered back about 3" for each amp?










There will be three stacked on one side, and two on the other side...inputs/outputs facing the other bank of amps. (Towards the center of the box.)

I like them staggered back, just to be able to see the hold down Allen screws, and the power/fault lights, on each amp.

I like them stacked straight up, because it looks cleaner.


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

My vote is for the staggered look as far as functiality.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Staggered my vote if we get to vote


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Just looking for feedback.
I get stuck standing there, looking at it....change them around...look at them again...go back...throw my hands into the air, and walk away for the day.
So I thought I would ask for feedback here.


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## optimaprime (Aug 16, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> Just looking for feedback.
> I get stuck standing there, looking at it....change them around...look at them again...go back...throw my hands into the air, and walk away for the day.
> So I thought I would ask for feedback here.


I hear you buddy I say staggered as it doesn't hide all of the pretty amps !


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## carlr (Feb 27, 2011)

Thumbs up on staggered!


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## steppinrazer (Jun 29, 2011)

Agreed that straight up is cleaner. But, if I redid my stack I would probably stagger them just enough to get to the terminals(an inch maybe)..

If you give yourself about 1.5" spacing vertically between, you can get a ball end allen in on the terminals. I didn't have that much vertical clearance available unfortunately.

Keep up the great work!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks for the kind words everyone.
The box I'm using is 36" long, and 20" wide. (Perfect width for these amps.)
There is enough box length to stagger them, and allow visual inspection of the power/fault lights, and screws on top of the amps.
I will place them all in the box for confirmation of location before they are permanently mounted.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got a new DC 270XP alternator for the additional load of the amps.
Stripping down the top of the engine to swap out the 285/100 injectors for a set of 330/150 hybrids. Then changing the turbine housing on the secondary, installing a Bullet Proof Diesel 6 phase FICM, and hopefully push it over the 1k rwhp mark this year.

Ordered up some different battery 0/1 gauge connectors that have one 0/1 gauge, one 4 gauge, and two 8 gauge connections. Only ones that I could use aren't as pretty looking as a lot of them, but they allow me to keep my current jumper cables on each battery. 

I have to wait till it's all back together before I run the new battery cable from the alternator to the battery's, so it doesn't get burnt by piping.


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## BigFishK5 (Mar 19, 2016)

Nice rack, the amps that is.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

BigFishK5 said:


> Nice rack, the amps that is.


Thanks!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Got a new DC 270XP alternator for the additional load of the amps.
> Stripping down the top of the engine to swap out the 285/100 injectors for a set of 330/150 hybrids. Then changing the turbine housing on the secondary, installing a Bullet Proof Diesel 6 phase FICM, and hopefully push it over the 1k rwhp mark this year.
> 
> Ordered up some different battery 0/1 gauge connectors that have one 0/1 gauge, one 4 gauge, and two 8 gauge connections. Only ones that I could use aren't as pretty looking as a lot of them, but they allow me to keep my current jumper cables on each battery.
> ...



Well, the new battery terminal connectors won't work with my setup, as I still needed to jumper the batterys together, and the terminal connectors work not work with the jumpers, or the 0/1 gauge cable from the alternator, or the other 0/1 cable going to the starter.

Something else I changed was I had the alternator charge cable going to the positive on one battery, and the ground cable to the frame was on the same battery....I changed it so the charge cable goes to the positive terminal on one of the batterys, and the ground comes off the other...creating a true, "flow path".
(This might be why one battery always seemed to not hold a charge...)

So I made a special connector for the top of the alternator to bolt onto the output post, and create a 0/1 gauge connection post for the battery cable, and another 4 gauge connector post for the two 8 gauge cables that used to go to the glow plug module, and the batterys. (Now the two 8 gauge wires are used to run power to the glow plug module.)










To show there is a gap under the connector.










Covered all the cables with DEI Fire sleeve.

Started running the second 0/1 gauge power cable for the three additional amps.










Overall engine bay...easier to see how the new 0/1 gauge was run over to the batterys.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

Damn! That is sexy! The intake pipe connectors are sick! Bet it pulls like a freight train.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Kellyo77 said:


> Damn! That is sexy! The intake pipe connectors are sick! Bet it pulls like a freight train.


Thank you.
Well, the only way I can describe it is,: you know how, in the winter, you can be going say 40 mph, and when you accelerate, the back tires start to spin, and you go sideways?....well, that happens in the summer in this thing...and that was before I changed to bigger injectors again.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I have been asked to post pictures of the L3 pods installed, so here they are.


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## USP45 (Mar 20, 2016)

Thanks for posting the pictures, gives me some idea's on what I will need to do in mine! How do the swivels hold? As you are well aware they can ride a bit rough unloaded, I just do not want the pods flopping around after hitting a bump. We have a place in East Texas and some of the dirt roads are less than improved surfaces.

Ok, unrelated, but how much boost are you running!?! One gauge goes to 60psi and the other 100psi which leads me to believe that you must at least be hitting somewhere north of 60 on the second of the two....


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

USP45 said:


> Thanks for posting the pictures, gives me some idea's on what I will need to do in mine! How do the swivels hold? As you are well aware they can ride a bit rough unloaded, I just do not want the pods flopping around after hitting a bump. We have a place in East Texas and some of the dirt roads are less than improved surfaces.
> 
> Ok, unrelated, but how much boost are you running!?! One gauge goes to 60psi and the other 100psi which leads me to believe that you must at least be hitting somewhere north of 60 on the second of the two....


I used Loctite on the swivels.
Not sure how they will hold up, as the truck is still parked. Hope I will have it running next set of days off.

Unrelated...there are four boost gauges, one 100 psi gauge for exhaust drive pressure from the engine to the secondary turbo (smaller turbo) one 60 psi gauge to measure the output drive pressure from the secondary turbo to the primary turbo (bigger turbo) another 60psi gauge measuring the boost pressure made by the big turbo, and another 100 psi gauge measuring the final compounded pressure into the engine.

Truck has buried the 100 psi drive pressure coming off the engine, and has made just under 80 psi boost pressure into the engine. (32+ psi boost from the big turbo feeding the little guy.)
This is why I have changed the turbine housing on the smaller turbo...try to drop a little more drive pressure.
Once I have it all tuned up, I will remove the gauges.


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

And I thought I was doing something with 35lbs of boost on my last f250. Lol it made just north of 500hp and little over 1000tq. Stayed torn up more than I got to drive it. And not from the programmer if you can believe it.


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## Mlarson67 (Jan 9, 2015)

Just to let you know I have a pair of those swivels on my tweeter pods and they hold great


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## pjc (May 3, 2009)

Kellyo77 said:


> And I thought I was doing something with 35lbs of boost on my last f250. Lol it made just north of 500hp and little over 1000tq. Stayed torn up more than I got to drive it. And not from the programmer if you can believe it.




Unrelated to audio but I haven't seen over 14 pounds on my 7.3L. It runs like s champ actually with an intake, exhaust, and programmer. I guess I need to look into finding a possible leak.


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## Bilalicious (Feb 21, 2015)

nice detailed thread you got there. Waiting for updates.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I'm at a stand still...
I am having writer's block when it comes to planning this out in the new box.
The power is being run by two 0/1 gauge cables, which will pop into the box from the bottom...the issue is, I keep running out of room for the distribution blocks and fuses for each amp.
I keep trying to reroute everything, but it's too cramped.
Thinking of keeping the original two amps behind the rear seat on the amp rack, and just add the other three in the box...less wires, and less room required.
Really doesn't help things when the truck isn't running right...tune related I hope...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Well, I'm pretty sure I'm going to leave the original two amps inside the truck, on the amp rack.
Next up was the space requirements for fuses inside the new box...I think I got that solved this morning...take a look:










What I'm going to use is on the left...what I was going to use, which used up huge amounts of space, is on the right...

What should I use for the bus-bar? Aluminum, steel, stainless steel, or ???


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

The amps positioned in the box, and the fuses set where I think they will go:


----------



## ndm (Jul 5, 2007)

Extended Power said:


> The amps positioned in the box, and the fuses set where I think they will go:




Please, Please, Please do something to mitigate moisture from contacting those amps if you plan to put them on the exterior of that truck. I am cringing from the memory of my old truck box that would build up condensation somehow on the inside. I would hate to see you damage the amps in the future.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Truck is only outside when it is driven...parked inside any other time...including winter months.
All holes that are put into the box are being siliconed as they are used.
The top has a weather proof seal on it.
Cable connector pass through fitting is also sealed. (Once installed.)

Might have to look into some desiccant, and make a "packet" for the inside of the box, behind the amps.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

After listening the the system all day in the shop, I'm starting to hear that the L3's just don't have nearly the high end as the tweeters I ran before...so, I'm gonna go with a three way in the front.

300 watts to the left mid-bass.
150 watts to the left midrange.

300 watts to the right mid-bass.
150 watts to the right midrange.

Then run the third 450/4v2 in stereo for the rear fill as follows:
150 watts full range to the rear left
150 watts full range to the rear right
Then use the 75 watts X 75 watts to run the front tweeters.

Think I may have to use the cross overs from the Clarus C61-2 component set I have if I run a 6.5" and a tweeter in the back. (Full range signal to the cross overs, and split it between the mid and tweeter.)


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Made a small platform for the power cables.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Ok, so if steel only has a conductivity rating of only 3-15%, why do we ground our equipment to the frames of our vehicles?
And if lead only has a conductivity rating of 7%, why are battery terminals made of lead?

Im going to change the power buss bar on my setup in the above picture to aluminum...it has a conductivity rating of 61%.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Little update:
Got the new box mounted in the truck box after I sprayed it the same color as my sub box.
I did not like how easy the aluminum scratches and hazes with the simplest wipe of a cloth or hand.
Power, and ground cables are pulled into the box.
Went back to the small pillar mounts for my tweeters, as the pillars I bought placed them behind the midrange.
Removed the rear seats, sub box, and center console from the cab so I had space to work.
Drilled...of all things bad that I have ever done to my truck...I actually drilled a 1 1/2" hole through the box of my truck, so I could run a PVC pipe from the new box to inside the cab for all the RCAs and speaker wires. (Power and ground are run in separate holes from under the truck.)

Running down on Monday to pick up all the new RCA "Y" adapters, and signal cables.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Wired up the rear speakers...I love being able to cut the low end frequencies to protect the speakers from damage.
They can take the full 150 watts each with no distortion now.
Pulled new wire for the front tweeters, as they will be added to the front stage.

Front stage: each side will have one L6se, one L3se, and a L1ProR2.
Rear fill is just a set of Rockford Fosgate 5 X 7s in the stock locations.

On the lookout for a new drivers door panel...got three broken tabs on the inside of mine.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Picture update...


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## Coppertone (Oct 4, 2011)

I like how well those are laid out.


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## steppinrazer (Jun 29, 2011)

Looks great!


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## damack (May 6, 2016)

Extended Power said:


> Truck is only outside when it is driven...parked inside any other time...including winter months.
> All holes that are put into the box are being siliconed as they are used.
> The top has a weather proof seal on it.
> Cable connector pass through fitting is also sealed. (Once installed.)
> ...


To bring this back, I think you're going to have to put some serious thought into this. The amps will produce heat. In an uninsulated aluminum box exposed to cold temps it will condensate. That could be disastrous.


----------



## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

damack said:


> To bring this back, I think you're going to have to put some serious thought into this. The amps will produce heat. In an uninsulated aluminum box exposed to cold temps it will condensate. That could be disastrous.












I ran the system this afternoon for about an hour with the lid closed.
It gets pretty warm inside the box, so I will be installing three 4 1/2" cpu fans right above the heat sinks of the top amp in the picture. 
On the opposite side of the box, I will be installing an "air inlet" vent that will match the fan cover on the other side.
So the three fans will pull air through the box, anytime the amps are on. (Hooked up to the amp turn on lead wire.)


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Didn't have enough room for three fans, as the third would hit the gas shock when closing the lid.
I decided to run two fans, which will "pull" the air the from the inside of the box, right above the amps heat sinks, and putting two more at an angle to pull air from in front of the bottom amp, and blow the air up through all three heat sinks, to the two fans that will pull the hot air out of the box.
This should create a nice air flow from under the bottom amp, and up past all three amps heat sinks.
Fresh air will come in from the opposite side of the box.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow, as I just finished the trim and such.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Some pictures before I get them mounted to the box...I need some screws or bolts yet.




























I may add 3 rows of 1/4" copper to act like a grill guard...kind of like up, 90* bend, across the fan, 90* bend, and down. l_____l


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Lots of other stuff happening in my life lately.
Things on this project are slowing down some.

Here are a couple pictures of the fans, and air inlets installed.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Seems that when you erase some pictures in photobucket, everything that was ever linked to anything else gets screwed up too, so I thought I should post pictures of the sub box finished.










Lights of the shop off.


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## monterx7 (May 19, 2016)

that box looks great!! where did you get those tweeter pods?


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## cmusic (Nov 16, 2006)

Where did you get the clear plastic fans?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

monterx7 said:


> that box looks great!! where did you get those tweeter pods?


Tweeter pods were from an other member here, DavidRam.



cmusic said:


> Where did you get the clear plastic fans?


Found them on fleebay.
Bought four of them, two clear that had the LEDs in them already, and two black ones that are inside the box, on the bottom, angled up, pulling air from in front of the bottom amp, and pushing the air up, through all three amp heat sinks.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Yeaaaaa!
All amps are back in service, gains set, and cooling fans workin too!
Now just gotta get the second sub box built...might be a quick & dirty box, just to get something in there...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Made lexan spacers for the mid range pods.
I will install LEDs this winter some time.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


>


Any thoughts, or opinions about sticking a couple more gel cell batterys inside this box?
It looks pretty empty...


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Any thoughts, or opinions about sticking a couple more gel cell batterys inside this box?
> It looks pretty empty...


Or maybe something like this 

https://www.google.com/search?q=12v...tnCKzM:;CKXbcXSLucAfnM:&imgrc=0zFcJbKqtnCKzM:


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Made lexan spacers for the mid range pods.
> I will install LEDs this winter some time.


That looks great! 

I can't tell from the pic, but did you polish the lexan to a clear on the edge or did you sand it to a frosted look??


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Extended Power said:


> Any thoughts, or opinions about sticking a couple more gel cell batterys inside this box?
> It looks pretty empty...


While gel batteries are MUCH less likely to leak or off gas, it CAN happen under overcharging conditions and my concern would be damage to the amps. If you google "gel battery leak off gas" you will see a couple examples where it DID happen. So if you don;t NEED the extra batteries (my Ram has two already in the engine compartment) I wouldn't do it. Still, you DO have the fans running and that IS a nice spot for them.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

DavidRam said:


> That looks great!
> 
> I can't tell from the pic, but did you polish the lexan to a clear on the edge or did you sand it to a frosted look??


Stuck the ring on a hole saw, and used my drill press as a way of holding, and spinning the rings, as I held sanding paper against the outside of the rings.

Even with a triple cutter router bit, it left small "chatter" marks in the lexan.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Test fitting the front sub box.
Ordered the granite for the top of it this morning...it will match the back.
Will have the same aluminum cup holders as the back, and the same blue lighting in the cup holders, and under the granite as the back, once finished.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

.....front door panels are off again....

Power window motors are getting swapped around...got the drivers side installed in the passenger side, wired up, and tested. This really frees up a lot of extra room behind the cutout of the stock speaker hole.
Getting ready to make bigger holes for the ZR800cw's.
Bought a Rivnut gun to make this job a little bit easier, as I think I will be bolting a 1/2" or 3/4" adaptor plate to the door first, then install the door panel, cut out the hole using a flush trim router bit, and then use decoupler/sealer between the adaptor plate, door panel, and driver.
Already know I need to make another adaptor plate, or cover, for the door panel, to hide the stock "grill". So it's really going to be a big sandwich...door metal, adapter plate, door panel, adapter plate, and finally...mid bass driver.

Thoughts?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Front door panel update:
These were stuck together until I put the 45* angle around everything.
They are an exact mirror of each other.




























Without any template equipment, this sure takes a long time to do...

Camera lens is scratched all to chit in my phone...sorry for the potatoe gun quality.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I have King Ranch emblems to install in the oddball cutouts.
Will be using the same mesh, and blue LED lighting in behind the grills.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Had to ditch the map pockets on the bottom of the doors to make these look better than something just hangin out in left field.
The map pockets are recessed 1/4", so I had to cut a filler panel for each door.
The fillers will be attached to the bottoms of the big panels.
I made new 3/4" door panel adaptors for the JL's that are bolted to the doors, and fit underneath the factory door panels. 
The new door panel additions will be attached to the stock door panels, and the speaker mounting bolts will pass through the outside panel, and bolt into the adaptor panel that is already bolted to the door. There will be isolation tape between them, and by bolting them together...should be a solid setup which provides an additional 1-1/2" standoff for the drivers.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Opinions wanted,

This is a picture of the back side of the panels.
I rabbeted? around each hole 5/16" x 1/4" deep, so there was room for the mesh, and LED light strip. (I also removed the same depth of wood in between each hole, so there is only a single piece of mesh, and lexan on the panel.)
I kinda like the way it looks in this picture, so my question is:
Should I cut a small recession around the 45* angle on the front side, to add some "depth", or "trim-like" appearance, or leave it as is? (It's starting to look....."plain")


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## Kellyo77 (Dec 5, 2009)

I think the 45 would look good. They look awesome as is. But it is a lot of flat real estate.


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## seafish (Aug 1, 2012)

Extended Power said:


> So now I need to order a couple of distribution blocks, and a component set.
> 
> There are a ton of different distribution blocks...but I think I would need two 1/0 gauge in with two 4 gauge out blocks.
> Anything brand that you guys prefer over the other. I would like high quality, not Kmart special.


IMO, the Knu Konceptz KNF-60 dist block is one of the nicest and most versatile dist blocks out right now and also does NOT cost an arm and a leg.

The nicest thing about it is you can EASILY reconfigure it later if you add or subtract any equipment. Finally, it is also customizable in that it has a two plastic covers one of which can easliy be painted to match your particular install/truck.

Here is the link to it, but also check out the youtube video link below from CAFE about using it--

KonFUSED 4 Way Fused Distribution Block - Merchandise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R4MAafSoQs


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Can't seem to find the two pictures that are missing on the first page....
Gonna call it for tonight.


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## Swaglife81 (Oct 15, 2016)

I know I'm late responding to this thread but the 11k quote on the center console sole and doors. What was that gonna all consist of? I know tedious labor, etc is involved in some stuff and quality materials. I'm glad everyone on here does their own work. I hate that these shops are trying to get crazy prices out of stuff. I got quoted $350 for sedan window tint. So I'm just gonna spend $50 on supplies and do it myself. I saw someone tint a whole car in 30 minutes without precut and it was perfect. Guess that's off topic but still. I would love to test out some Mosconi stuff. That display looks so classy.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Swaglife81 said:


> I know I'm late responding to this thread but the 11k quote on the center console sole and doors. What was that gonna all consist of? I know tedious labor, etc is involved in some stuff and quality materials. I'm glad everyone on here does their own work. I hate that these shops are trying to get crazy prices out of stuff. I got quoted $350 for sedan window tint. So I'm just gonna spend $50 on supplies and do it myself. I saw someone tint a whole car in 30 minutes without precut and it was perfect. Guess that's off topic but still. I would love to test out some Mosconi stuff. That display looks so classy.


That quote was to build a sub box that would hold both 12" subs, and to make the box "Steampunk"ish. 
The doors would have been made to hold the 6.5" drivers...which have been changed to the JL 8".

I'm still struggling with these door panels...just like the sub box...start, and then get stuck...walk away....
Glad I had bought a spare set of panels to cut up...I would have cried if I screwed up my original King Ranch panels. (Only get one shot at them.)

Been watching Mark's videos at CAF.
He makes fiber glassing look rediculously simple.

I have almost given up on making these door panels, as I'm afraid of screwing up the panels themselves, or having rattles afterwards.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Worked on the front sub box a little more.
Still need to add the panel LEDs, and trim piece yet, and touch up the paint on the mesh.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I'm Glad this got bumped, and that you had taken the time to repost the missing pics. Fantastic build 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

street.terror said:


> I'm Glad this got bumped, and that you had taken the time to repost the missing pics. Fantastic build
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Thank you.

I have been watching Mark on his C.A.F videos, doing the door pods...pretty similar to what I got going on, and he makes everything look so easy!:worried:

I also spoke to a local installer, and showed him some pictures of my build, and he said I'm like already done 90% of the work, just do it!

.....going to watch Marks videos a few more times before I try it....


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

Mark makes everything look easy.... I think just take your time and you'll Be fine. 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I will post pictures of what the panels look like now, but I'm thinking of starting over.

-I changed the outside angle cut from a small 45*, to a longer 30*. (Looks better I think)

-I placed the speaker where I thought it looked the best, not where the factory door "allows" it to be. This caused the issue of the electric window motors to be in the way, even after I reverse mounted them. (Swapped drivers side to passengers side, passengers side to drivers side.)

-I had to add more speaker rings to raise the driver away from the door panel itself, so the magnet wouldn't hit the door metal. (See above for detail)

-each ring is at a different angle, so it doesn't look like a "cone" glued to the panel. I will blend it in afterwards.

So the reason I think I may start over:

After watching Marks videos on door panels/pods, I should have made a mold first, and then attached the wood parts to it.
This would have shrunk the cone part of the panel for sure, but then the LED/grill section will not work, as it would be too small.

Help?, suggestions?

Tell me what I need to hear, not what I want to hear.

Thanks.

Edit: Just took my wife out to the shop, and showed her what I was up against....she suggested to use spray foam to fill the gaps...sand it, and call it good, no need for fiberglass at all.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Just got back from Rona.
Bought a can of "*Great StUff"*

Also bought some material if I choose to try fiberglassing as well.

Waiting on some opinions...


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

Did Rona have a decent selection of fiberglass materials? 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

street.terror said:


> Did Rona have a decent selection of fiberglass materials?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


No, we went to the local fabric store for some spandex type stretchy material.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

Okay that makes more sense! Ha

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got the nerve up to remove the lower map pockets off my original KR door panels this afternoon.
Fitted the bottom panels to the original door panels using 1/4" x 13mm inserts, and made sure they fit perfectly. These will be what hold the new door panels onto the original doors. (The bottom portion anyways.)
I hung the door panels back onto the doors to see if there were any problems with the bolts on the backside. (Rubbing, etc.) None found, so that's good.

Next days off, I hope to get more done than I did this time.
Finish the LED lighting.
Tape off the doors, mount the panels, and fill the gaps.
Then smooth everything out, and coat them.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got a little more time to work on the panels today.
Decided to use the emblems I removed from the outside of the doors a few years ago...made some lexan backs for them, and will be lit up with LED's from behind.
Here is the drivers door panel finally hung firm enough that I can finally start to fill the gaps.

So I guess now I need to apply the poly resin to the backs of the panels where the filler will be used, so it will adhere to the wood of the panels.
Then I have to fill and sand everything.
Then spray the matching box liner stuff on...
Then put the LED's , grills, and lexan in, and stick them together.
No way I can get it all done before I go in for my hand surgery on the 28th...but, shouldn't have to many sleepless nights wondering how I'm going to finish them.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

That looks fantastic! I should do that to my ranger... 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Got a little more time to work on the panels today.
Decided to use the emblems I removed from the outside of the doors a few years ago...made some lexan backs for them, and will be lit up with LED's from behind.
Here is the drivers door panel finally hung firm enough that I can finally start to fill the gaps.

So I guess now I need to apply the poly resin to the backs of the panels where the filler will be used, so it will adhere to the wood of the panels.
Then I have to fill and sand everything.
Then spray the matching box liner stuff on...
Then put the LED's , grills, and lexan in, and stick them together.
No way I can get it all done before I go in for my hand surgery on the 28th...but, shouldn't have to many sleepless nights wondering how I'm going to finish them.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Not sure if these are a little clearer...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Now I have to apply the resin to the backside of the panels so the fiberglass/bonds sticks to it, and fill the gaps.

Question/opinion.....

I have the spray liner stuff which is black in color...the same that I used on the termination board inside the box of the truck...it's the spray can stuff, not the two part mix that uses the spray gun...
What would look better on these panels...using the spray can liner stuff, and then painting over it with color matching interior paint, or, use the same box liner color as the sub boxes, and amp box that I have used already?


This is the two part box liner mix, sprayed onto the sub box finish...










This is the black stuff...










I'm trying to find a close up of the black finish...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Today's update is short...
I was able to attach the KR emblems to the lexan backings.
I applied poly resin to the backs of both panels.
I touched up the trim piece for the center console. (I wanted to see how close they color matched the spray bomb to the box liner color.)
I ran the power wires for the LED lighting in the panels into both doors through the rubber grommets. (Easy when you use speaker wires already pulled through.)
That's about it for awhile...I get my other hand surgery tomorrow morning, so I won't be able to do jack squat for about two weeks.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I found this picture for reference purposes only....
I DO NOT want my door panels to look like this:











This picture scared me so much, that I decided to use the spray can box liner stuff, and then repaint the panels with a color matching spray bomb.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

Those look brutal! Haha

Are you just spraying the area where you have added the baffle? 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

​Yeah, I was....didn't think it would look too bad, but after seeing the picture I posted, I don't wanna try it at all!
I will stick with just the really fine textured box liner spray can stuff...it's black, so I will just paint the panels with a color matched bomb afterwards.

I have a color matched bomb already, that matches the bottom exterior trim of the truck, but it's super glossy.
I sprayed it on one of my extra/spare door panels, and it's too glossy...but here is the kicker...my doors both have faded color right by the lock knobs, and I was going to paint them completely, if I could get a perfect matched color.

See how they have turned white around the lock knob holes?


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Hand surgery went good.
Did one door a couple days ago, did the second door a few minutes ago.
Here are a couple pix:


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

It's all nail biting now! 

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## Onyx1136 (Mar 15, 2009)

That's looking good so far. Fabrication is about 80% preparation and 10% execution. The last 10% is being creative and figuring how to fix your mistakes.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

I hear ya....
I still have not cut the hole from the new panels, through the door panel themselves...
Wondering how I can seal the panel to the door panel. Don't want any vibration, or movement of any kind between the two.
Was thinking of using the spray foam, but then though maybe just use plumbers puddy.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Note to self......don't use too much hardener with body filler....you can't work that fast...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Finally had some time to get after these door panels again.
Couple pictures of before coating was applied:











Both panels before coating applied:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Even after I tried a test piece before coating the "good" panels, the finish was not exactly what I wanted.
To me, it's too rough of a texture...but it will match the front sub box/console really close/exactly.


Still wet:











[URL










I have an ungawdly amount of time into these panels...these are my first crack at door panels of any kind.
I was going to use a textured auto body paint, and then color-match the color of the panel to the original door...but the paint I got did NOT match at all. (I even returned it and asked for a different mix.)
So after I applied the textured paint, and colour-matched paint on a test panel, and let it dry...I purposely scratched it to see what the results were...aaaaand I changed my mind RIGHT away. Lol
The black textured paint showed itself on the scratch, and I just was not happy with that, so I went back to using the colour matched box liner stuff that I had used on the rear sub box/console, front box/console, and amp box. (To me, it only made sense.)


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I think they look great. But I'm looking at a picture in the internet sooo

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

street.terror said:


> I think they look great. But I'm looking at a picture in the internet sooo
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Lol....that might be a good thing.:laugh:

Honestly, I just wanted the textured finish to match the boxes already done, and they do.
I don't know why I expect everything I do to be absolutely perfect... it just leads to more changes....

I gotta get this finished so I can use the truck this summer.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Yeah, I like this!
Wish my camera wouldn't kill the blue color so much....it looks awesome!



















Lights out, looks way better in person...not so bright, just blue!










The mesh is painted copper color, same as the other stuff, with a black backing that is covered with sanded lexan.
I'll post a couple more tomorrow when everything is dry.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

I can't do blue light. Too intense for me. 

But that looks great! Like really great. I hope the grafting to door panel goes equally as well. 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

street.terror said:


> I can't do blue light. Too intense for me.
> 
> But that looks great! Like really great. I hope the grafting to door panel goes equally as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


I usually have a 9v battery laying around for testing LEDs, but it's MIA.
I only had the battery out of my 18v Dewalt drill. It's not gonna be as bright as this in the truck, but it does show that all the lights work.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Here is a picture of the panel mounted to the door card, and hung onto the door itself.
I still have to coat the back section of the new panels, but ran out of the box liner material.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Fits against the door card pretty damn good.
I will still use an adhesive when they are permanently installed...just to make sure they are sealed against the card.


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## Onyx1136 (Mar 15, 2009)

Are you only using adhesive to mount it to the door panels, or do you have any mechanical fasteners? I dunno if I would trust adhesive only to hold those on, unless it was a ton of CA glue.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Onyx1136 said:


> Are you only using adhesive to mount it to the door panels, or do you have any mechanical fasteners? I dunno if I would trust adhesive only to hold those on, unless it was a ton of CA glue.


There are eight 1/4" bolts with fender washers holding it onto the door card.
I was thinking of using something like PL400 on the bottom outside perimeter, just to make sure it doesn't rattle.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Finally grew a set and made the cut into the good door.


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## Jheitt142 (Dec 7, 2011)

Beautiful! My doors have that same stupid grill. But because of the contour you can't just cleanly cut it out without doing a build out like you have. 

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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Passenger side completed!
Powered by the truck's battery power.










I got the driver's side done, except for tying in the LEDs into the door wiring...can't seem to find the wire on the driver's side. I'll finish it when I come home again.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Little update:

It seems that one sub was always louder than the other....same subs, same voltage going to them, but the one in the front console seems....."weak".
Sometimes when I'm driving, I have lots of bass...next song, it's like one amp completely drops out.
Used DSP's to shut off all channels but the one sub in question...sounds like it's getting FA for a signal.????
Turn the volume up to max, still safe, as gains are set correct, sub "Jumps" to life for a couple seconds, then freezes again, then breaks loose again...finally frees up completely, even when I turn the volume back down.

Was the coil seized?

Presently looking for another JL 12w7-3 in lnib shape.

Oh....also installed solid mounts, and LEDs in midrange pods, as the swivels don't stay put, and no extra room for LED wires. 
I hooked them up to come on when the doors open...looks good I think.


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## Swaglife81 (Oct 15, 2016)

You said that one sub seemed like it was always weak. I bet the motor was shifted than probably from whenever it originally shipped. Than as time went on it just became worse. If the sub sounded great in the beginning than might have been just a unwound coil, glue coming loose etc. If it was always weak I don't think I would blame the manufacter as the UPS man or somebody dropped it. I worked at the post office and Amazon in the past. Boxes go through hell sometimes. I've seen a head unit in a box thrown 20 feet into a cage at the post office. It's the shippers responsibility to really protect an item though. I guess I'm rambling


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Yeah, I kept checking the rca connections, and gain settings...thinking a wire was loose, or something.
I'm looking for another sub right now...found a couple within a few hours from me...
Then again...maybe the amp is taking a dump. 
When I get home again, I'll measure the output going to the sub again, and measure the resistance of the sub.
One thing I did do, was with the system off, I put an open hand onto the cone area, and tried to press the cone inward, and it was really stiff.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Had my son disconnect the wires from the terminals at the front console box, and measure the ohms of the driver.
He said it was only like 1.15ohms...so something is buggered in the sub.
Had him measure the sub before I bought another one.
Not happy about it, but I'm happy we found the problem.

So in Canada....is there anywhere to ship a JL sub for repair, or do I have to send it down to the States somewhere?
It's used, so I know there is no warranty, but I would like it repaired, so I can use it in another setup.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Note to self: If you want something done right, do it yourself.

Turns out the sub is fine, amps are fine, everything is fine....except the RCA's on the output of the Mosconi 6to8v8!

Now I have an Anniversary Edition JL 12w7-3, with nowhere to put it, and need a repair, or new, Mosconi 6to8v8 DSP.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Deleted.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Well since I have a couple hundred posts all over this forum for different issues I've have with designing, and building my system, I thought I may as well try to put some of them together and make a BUILD thread.
> 
> Enjoy.
> 
> This is my truck:


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Right now I have an Alpine IVA-310, Kicker KX 550.3, a 10" square L5, Rockford Fosgate rear speakers, and round Orion's in the front doors.
> Sounds ok, but:
> 
> I gave my son the Kicker L5, and I got a cd stuck inside the player.
> ...


Copied


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Just bought a JL 1000/1v2
> Gonna use it for the 12W7 now instead of the Power 1001.
> 
> Trying to buy a set of Hertz 165XL's but kinda being mislead...
> ...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Bought a set of Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus 61-2's from Huckleberry Sound.
> And bought 2 remote bass controllers for my JL amps.
> A friend gave me like 6 sheets of Dynamat Extreme. I used 2 sheets in my sons car, and did the passenger side front door....just to get a feel of how much more I'm gonna need.
> 
> ...


Copied


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Started with removing the interior to install some sound dampening.
> 
> Here is what it looked like before I removed the second vent, and the old crap dampener.
> 
> ...


Copied, and picture links changed.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> I sound proofed/deadened the rear doors, but don't seem to have any pictures of them.
> 
> I put Dynamat Extreme on the outer skin, and on the inner skin as well as CCF & MLV right behind the door panels.
> 
> ...


Copied, and new picture links added.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Next, I guess I could show the progress of what is now my amp rack.
> I gotta say that after working with the Lexan, I have no idea why in the hell I used plexiglass for the amp rack. Never, ever again...just sayin...
> 
> 
> ...


Copied with new picture links added.


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## Jaloosk (Jan 13, 2010)

Bloody hell that amp rack looks awesome


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## DavidRam (Nov 2, 2014)

The amp rack is absolutely stunning!


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks fella's.
I'm trying to relinquish all the pictures the best I can...may take some time, lol.
I'll do a bit more today.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Daytime picture of amp rack before seat bracket was set in place.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Copied, and new pictures linked.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Here are a few pictures of the HU, remote DSP, speakers, blah, blah, blah...


Copied, updated picture links.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Probably gonna make different adaptors for the front speakers...I centered the 6 1/2" on the stock 5 x 7" cutout, and there is quite a bit of the cone area covered by the door panel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Copied & pix updated.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> So I was asked to post up some shots that show the available space for the sub box or boxes...
> If anyone has any ideas as to what I should try to make for the box/boxes, please post up!
> 
> Here is what is available for the rear:
> ...


Copied and pix updated.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Post deleted.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Thanks for the compliments guys...it keeps me motivated.
> 
> I went down and picked up a bunch of material I was waiting for.
> More Dynamat Extreme for the most part, so I could continue on with the front doors.
> ...


Copied and pix updated.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Just got back from Home Depot...
> Found a new toy....


Not sure why some links still work????


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Life gettin in the way again.
> Today I got the passenger side mid installed.
> Door dampened, and both passenger, and drivers door covered with CCF.
> Hope to get the MLV cut tonight, and throw the door panels back on...but we are having company over again...so we shall see.


More links that still work.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Here is a shot of the adaptor plate with the insulating speaker foam on it....just before the speaker was mounted to it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Links still work...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Got the drivers door all done as far as getting the CCF and MLV on it, and the panel back on....yea!
> 
> Cut out of the MLV:
> 
> ...


Links still work.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> So I picked up some wooden bed post knobs to use as tweeter pods. (I don't know why Micheals has bed post knobs.)
> 
> Here is where I'm at so far...I don't know if I want to cut the wooden pod back more on the face, and use the tweeter bezel, or use it the way it is right now....
> 
> ...


Copied & pix fixed.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Went to Princess Auto yesterday.
> Found some gears that would fit over the copper, but it made the pods look like flowers so that's out.
> Used smaller copper pipe instead of the 1" stuff so it doesn't look as miss matched in sizes with the pods.
> 
> ...


Copied.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Yeah I looked that up awhile ago when I wanted to roll the front on the box I wanted to build for the back.
> I still haven't started to build the rear sub box yet...
> I did order some of these last night though.....


I think this was just a picture of speaker terminal posts...


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Update on the HU...
> Finally got enough dash material removed to slide the HU into the opening without the install kit.
> 
> Front of dash panel opening before cutting.
> ...


Copied, & picture links working.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> After cutting the opening enough for the HU.


Copied.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Extended Power said:


> Tweeter pod....
> Not sure I like them yet....


Copied.


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## Extended Power (Jun 8, 2014)

Jeeeeeezzzzz......
Photopail worked for a bit, and must have some software that detects links being posted.
I can't even download the above pictures to my home computer now. They have the same pop up when I try to look at the pictures myself, while I'm on their site.

Not sure if I should try reposting everything, (11+ pages) or just post the pictures of how it all turned out?


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